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WANDERINGS  AND  WONDERINGS 


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BY  THE  SAME  AUTHOR. 

A    FLIGHT    TO    MEXICO.    With  7  Full-page  Illustra. 
tions  and  a  Railway  Map.    Cr.  8vo,  7J.  M. 

SIX     MONTHS     IN     OAPE     COLONT     AND 
NAT  All.    With  Illustrations  and  Map.    Cr.  8vo,  6s. 

A    FIGHT    "WITH    DISTANCES.    With  Illustrations 
and  Maps.    Cr.  8vo,  71.  6d, 


Kbgan  Paul,  Trench,  Tr  bhrr  &  Co.^  Ltd. 


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Wanderings  &  Wonderings 


IN£>IA,    BURMA,   KASHMIR,  CEYLOK,  SINGAPORE,  JAVA, 
SI  AM,  JAPAN,  MANILA,  FORMOSA,  KOREA,  CHINA, 
CAMBODIA,  AUSTRALIA,  NEW  ZEALAND, 
ALASKA,  THE  STATES 


BY 

J.    J.   AUBERTIN 

XBAKSLAXOR   OF    •'THE  LUSIADS"  AND  ** SEVENTY  SONNETS  OF  CAMOENS,"  AND 
AUTHOR  OF  "a  FUGHT  TO  MEXICO,"  "  CAPE  COLONY." 
"a   fight  with   distances,"  ETC, 


WTH  PORTRAIT,  MAP,  AND  SEVEN  ILLUSTRATIONS 


LONDON 
KEGAN    PAUL,   TRENCH,  TRUBNER  &  CO.,   Ltd. 

PATERNOSTER  HOUSE,  CHARING   CROSS  ROAD 
1892 


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TACB 


CONTENTS. 

I. 

Introductory — Voyage  out— Calcutta i 

II. 
Calcutta 15 

III. 
Darjeeling 23 

IV. 
Calcutta 28 

V. 
Burma 33 

VI. 

Benares  —  Lucknow,  &c.— Allahabad  — Jubbulpore  —  Au- 

rungabad — EUora 48 

VII. 
Bombay — Elephanta— Karli 65 

VIII. 
Ahmedabad— Kattiawar  Peninsula — Palitana — Girnar  74 

IX. 
Mount  Abu— Ajmir— Jeypur— Amba 89 

X. 

Agra— Fuitehpore  Sikri— Gwalior 10 1 

046 

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VI  CONTENTS. 

XI. 

PAGE 

Delhi 112 

XII. 

Amrilsar — Lahore — Sealcote — Peshawur — Indian  Hospi- 
tality      117 

XIII. 

Khyber  Pass 125 

XIV. 
Rawl  Pindi — Murree— Kashmir 131 

XV. 
Kashmir— Srinagar — Islamabad,  &c 142 

•XVI. 
Kashmir— Sind  Valley 159 

XVII. 

Kashmir — Pir  Panjal  Pass 177 

XVIII. 

Kashmir — Chashma  Shahi t86 

XIX. 

Nathia  Gali— Simla 191 

XX. 
Narkanda — Sutlej  Valley — From  Mussuri  .  195 

XXI. 

Darjeeling  again 200 

XXII. 
Madras— Ootacamund—Nilgiris — Madura,  &c.  208 

XXIII. 
Ceylon — Ramisseram — Ceylon 213 

XXIV. 
Java— Boro  Buddor — ^Java 234 


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CONTENTS.  VU 

XXV. 

PAGE 

Siam — Hongkong — Canton — Macao 244 

XXVI. 
Shanghai —Japan 262 

XXVII. 
Shanghai— Manila— Formosa 302 

XXVIII. 
Nagasaki — Korea 311 

XXIX. 
To  Tientsin — To  Peking 324 

XXX. 

Peking 333 

XXXI. 

Ming  Tombs— Wall  of  China— Return  to  Peking— Peking 

again— From  Peking 341 

XXXII. 
Yang-tse-Kiang 354 

XXXIII. 
Cambodia — Hongkong  again 364 

XXXIV. 
Leaving  Asia 379 

XXXV. 

To  Australia — Sydney — Melbourne — To  New  Zealand — 

Hobart 384 

XXXVI. 
New  Zealand  -394 

XXXVII. 
Sydney  again — Honolulu — San  Francisco  .  .416 


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Vlli  CONTENTS, 

XXXVIII. 

PAGE 

Alaska 422 

XXXIX. 

Mount  Hamilton 43' 

XL. 

San  Francisco— Shoshone  Falls— -Salt  Lake  City — Mana- 
tou — Chicago — Niagara — Albany- -New  York — Liver- 
pool— Conclusion.  43^ 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Portrait Frontispiece. 

A  Point  of  Benares To  face  page     50 

Marble  Rocks :  Jubbulpore  ....  „        ..       58 

Interior  of  Del wara  Temple:  Mount  Abu  ,»        „      90 

Golden  Temple :  Amritsar    .  „        ,,     118 

Ramisseram :  Island  of  Paumben  n        n     226 

George  Sound :  New  Zealand      ...  i»        »     396 

General  View  of  Mount  Hamilton  Observatory  „        „    432 

Map  at  end  of  Volume. 


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WANDERINGS  AND  WONDERINGS. 


I. 

J*    Dear    Dr.   and    Mrs.    Alfred   Barton,   John 

Beaton,  and  Charles  Seymour  Grenfell, 

These  pages  belong  to  you. 

When  I  once  more  set  foot  in  England,  arriving  in 
Liverpool  on  the  isth  of  September,  1891,  by  the 
White  Star  Company's  steamer  Majestic,  after  an 
absence  of  about  three  years*  travelling — thus 
occupying  about  the  same  time  as  a  certain  other 
great  man  in  -the  Endeavour^  of  370  tons — one  of 
my  first  recollections  was,  that  when  I  left  London 
on  the  morning  of  the  25th  of  October,  1888,  you 
all  came  down  to  the  Liverpool  Street  station  to 
wave  me  o(T  to  the  East  with  best  wishes,  and  that  I 
then  promised  to  give  you,  on  my  return,  my  own 
account  of  my  wanderings  and  wonderings. 

It  being  almost  impossible,  nowadays,  to  go 
where  others  have  not  been,  or  have  failed  to 
write  about,  you  asked  for  nothing  pretending  to  an 
account  of  daring  and  original  adventure,  and  cer- 
tainly nothing  in  the  shape  of  mere  descriptions 
repeated  from  those  of  others  ;  but  simply  an  account 


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2  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

of  my  own  individual  doings,  and  my  own  impres- 
sions and  experiences  of  things  and  places,  for 
whatever  these  might  be  worth. 

To  this  style  of  letter  I  shall  confine  myself,  and, 
in  particular,  I  shall  not  dilate  on  Indian  Govern- 
ment and  taxation — such  as  "  the  reimposition  of 
the  patwari  cess,"  for  example — simply  because  I 
have  seen  the  inside  of  Government  House  at 
Calcutta  ;  nor  shall  I  offer  any  pseudo-profound 
observations  upon  social  life,  simply  because  I  have 
dined  under  the  roof  of  a  Rajah.  As  Silvio  Pellico 
said  of  politics,  "parlo  d'altro." 

Therefore  I  shall  address  this  volume  to  you  in  the 
form  of  one  long  letter  to  the  end.  Thus  I  shall  be 
sure  of,  at  all  events,  four  readers,  and  if  any  of  the 
public,  who  have  been  indeed  far  from  unfavourable 
towards  me  in  my  former  volumes,  are  disposed, 
with  your  permission,  to  join  the  circle,  I  shall  be 
only  too  gratified  by  their  attention ;  and,  in  this 
view,  shall  endeavour  to  secure  it. 

In  thus  responding  to  my  promise  I  must  confess 
to  some  little  self-satisfaction  in  hereby  proving  to 
you  that  I  have  not  only  returned,  but  have  brought 
with  me  the  capacity  of  accounting  for  my  time. 
For  although  you  accorded  me  your  best  wishes,  yet 
I  had  reason  to  suspect  that  you  were  all  besieged 
by  certain  grave  doubts  about  the  venture.  Your 
minds  misgave  you  that  at  my  age,  just  six  weeks 
short  of  striking  seventy,  the  undertaking  of  a  long 
journey,  including  India  and  Kashmir  to  begin  with, 
was  a  very  hazardous  proceeding,  the  more  so  because, 
as  usual,  I  was  starting  quite  alone.   However^  I  had 


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ISTRODUCTORW  3 

no   misgivings  on    that  score   myself,   and  here   I 
am. 

In  point  of  fact,  for  those  who  have  anything  of 
the  art  and  delight  of  travel  in  them,  travelling  at  the 
present  day  presents  no  real  difficulties  (although  in 
truth  it  must  always  present  many  inconveniences) 
unless  you  are  disposed  to  penetrate  where  you 
apparently  have  no  right  to  intrude  ;  for  the  finger, 
and  indeed  the  hand  and  arm  sometimes,  of  England 
and  Europe  are  to  be  found  almost  everywhere  ;  or, 
at  all  events,  often  enough  to  allow  of  a  respite,  after 
any  shorter  or  longer  visit  to  the  less  frequented 
districts  of  any  given  country.  So  long  ago  even  as 
1773  Dr.  Johnson  expressed  his  annoyance  at  seeing  a 
man  come  up  with  a  complimentary  Latin  line,  when 
he  arrived  with  Bos  well  from  his  tour  to  the  Hebrides, 
"  I  am  really  ashamed,^'  said  he,  "  of  the  congratula- 
tions which  we  receive.  We  are  addressed  as  if  we 
had  made  a  voyage  to  Nova  Zembla^  and  suffered 
five  persecutions  in  Japan."  Now,  as  regards  Nova 
Zembla,  perhaps  a  boast  might  still  be  made — I  have 
not  tried  it — but  as  regards  a  visit  to  Japan,  that  now 
bears  scarcely  more  importance  as  a  journey  than 
did  a  visit  to  the  Hebrides  in  Dr.  Johnson's  day ; 
while  the  persecutions  you  may  perchance  suffer  in 
Japan  are  certainly  not  those  he  had  in  mind. 

For  my  own  part,  therefore,  I  have  no  combinations 
of  impossibilities  to  indulge  in  ;  I  shall  be  rather 
showing  you  what  you  could  do  than  what  I  did  ;  and 
though,  as  I  travelled  alone,  I  shall  often  be  obliged 
to  use  the  egotistically  sounding  pronoun  I,  what  else 
can  a  man  do  who  travels  alone  ?    And  if  he  seeks 

B  2 


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4  n'A\D£/^/XGS  A. YD    IVOXDERIXGS. 

to  avoid  any  stupid  charge  of  egotism  on  this 
account,  is  he  to  sneak  into  the  shuffling  "  one  "  in 
order  to  avoid  a  fool's  arrow  ?  I  once  saw  (or 
perhaps  have  invented)  a  marginal  note  in  pencil 
written  against  a  certain  "  one  thinks,"  and  the  note 
ran  thus :  "  one,  and  only  one,  I  should  suppose  ;  speak 
for  yourself  and  say  I,  and  hear  that  you  are  an  ass." 
So  I  will  run  the  risk  of  the  "  ego  "  accusation  boldly. 
That  same  putting  of  the  letter  I  for  the  first  personal 
pronoun,  by  the  way,  I  have  found  to  be  very 
amusing  among  foreigners.  In  no  other  language 
that  I  have  known  anything  of  does  the  like  occur. 
In  many  the  personal  pronoun  need  not  be  expressed 
at  all,  the  inflection  of  the  verb  suffices,  and  thus  the 
writer  in  the  first  person  escapes  the  silly  charge.  I 
daresay  I  may  now  and  then  be  discursive,  but  you 
will  not  object  to  that  in  a  familiar  letter,  for  I  must 
sometimes  write  to  satisfy  my  own  wandering  thoughts. 
Any  given  scene  or  circumstance  may  start  a  sudden 
recollection  ;  and  it  may  be  pleasing  to  me,  at  the 
moment,  to  wander  up  the  stream  of  memory,  and 
put  on  shore  from  time  to  time,  and  occupy  the  mind 
in  rumination. 

I  start  with  confidence,  for  you  will  be  my  real 
critics,  and  your  judgments  will  be  benevolent.  But 
I  have  had  no  reason  hitherto  to  dread  that  of  others. 
Almost  all  of  those  who  have  hitherto  noticed  me 
have  done  me  justice  ;  and  how  soon,  even  if  it  be  in 
only  a  paragraph,  does  one  see  whether  the  writer  is 
really  of  that  peculiar  and  distinguished  class  called 
critics,  or  a  mere  cavilling  coxcomb  with  no  right 
whatever  to  occupy  the  chair.     Now,  if  it  be  true  of 


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IXTRODUCTORW  S 

a  poet  that  he  must  be  born,  so  also  Is  it  of  a  critic. 
I  have  be^n  more  than  once  astonished  at  the  flippant 
manner  in  which  I  have  been  told  by  one  or  the 
other  that  (after  perhaps  being  called  to  hopeless 
starvation  at  the  bar)  "  he  has  taken  up  literature," 
meaning  criticism.  I  once  much  offended  a  youthful 
aspirant  who  informed  me  of  this  his  resolution,  by 
advising  him  to  "  put  it  down  again."  "  Why  ?  "  quoth 
he.  "  Because,"  quoth  I,  •'  you  are  claiming  to  have 
a  master  mind."  And  such  the  real  critic  must  have 
— a  master  and  a  versatile  mind.  A  real  criticism  of 
any  really  good  book  is  often  more  entertaining 
reading  than  the  book  itself;  and  is  always  a  most 
excellent  introduction  to  it.  But  any  notice  is 
perhaps  better  than  none  at  all,  for  the  phrase  is  not 
unknown,  "  There  is  such  a  saucy  notice  against  that 
book,  that  I  must  buy  it  and  read  it  for  myself."  I 
need  not  dwell  on  this  subject,  yet  I  cannot  but  recall 
one  notice  of  my  last  book,  "  A  Fight  with  Distances," 
which  occurred  in  the  pages  of  Vanity  Fair^  where  I 
had  twice  been  benevolently  favoured.  After  re- 
viewing (?)  another  author's  book  by  saying  that  the 
only  good  part  about  it  was  the  title,  he  came  to 
mine,  and  speaking  of  himself  "as  zve  of  the  outer 
world  "  (the  journal  is  professedly  caricature),  said 
that  there  was  "  nothing  worth  reading  in  it."  Yet  I 
had  twenty-one  other  notices  of  it,  and  Mudie 
apologized  to  one  customer  of  my  acquaintance  for 
the  state  of  the  copy. 

In  this  case,  therefore,  it  was  a  question  of  either 
one  fool  or  many.  When  Gil  Bias  was  bargaining 
for  a  coat  ihzfripier  showed  him  one  and  said  **  he 


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6  WANDERLyGS   AXD    IVONDER/XGS. 

had  refused  sixty  ducats  for  it/'  "  ou  je  ne  suis  pas 
honnite  Iwmme^'  whereon  the  reflection  of  Gil  Bias 
simply  was,  "  ^alternative  ^tait  convaincante'^ 

My  half-mistrusted  start,  as  you  know,  took 
place  on  the  25th  of  October,  1888,  when  I  left  the 
Liverpool  Station  to  join  the  P.  and  O.  Company's 
steamer  Ganges,  Captain  Alderton,  then  sailing  for 
Calcutta.  And  herein  occurred  for  the  first  time 
what  afterwards  happened  to  me  more  than  once  in 
my  life  of  travel.  My  first  plan  was  upset,  to  my 
annoyance ;  but  the  result  proved  advantageous. 
For  I  had  intended  sailing  for  Bombay,  and  had 
bespoken  my  cabin,  when  a  certain  death  occurred 
which  prevented  my  departure.  Nor  could  I  obtain 
another  cabin  for  Bombay  to  suit  my  time.  Thus  I 
was  forced  to  Calcutta.  How  often  these  contrarieties 
occur  in  life,  teasing  us  at  first,  and  ending  well  at  last. 
I  could  not  have  begun  my  Indian  tour  more  success- 
fully, as  it  happened,  than  by  beginning  at  Calcutta  ; 
and,  moreover,  I  was  thus  just  in  time  to  pay  my 
respects,  on  the  eve  of  his  departure,  to  his  Ex- 
cellency, the  Viceroy,  Lord  Dufierin,  whom  I  had 
last  visited  in  St.  Petersburg.  Thus  it  is  one  wanders 
over  this  small  great  world. 

We  formed  a  rather  numerous  list  of  passengers, 
and  our  captain  was  very  pleasant.  The  accommo- 
dation was  good,  while,  as  regards  the  table,  it  struck 
me  that  with  a  less  number  of  dishes  the  Company 
could  give  better  dinners.  Our  usual  passage, 
skirting  **  The  Bay,*'  was  not  particularly  unpleasant, 
and  permitted  that  well-known  very  difficult  piece  of 
navigation — the  walking  up  and   down  decks,  and 


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VOYAGE    OUT,  7 

meeting  others.  This  time  I  passed  Lisbon  without 
touching  there,  which  I  had  always  done  before  in 
sailing  to  and  fro  between  South  America  ;  nor  was 
I  anxious  to  do  so  on  this  occasion,  for  a  more  rolling 
sea  than  that  which  tossed  us  all  down  that  coast  1 
never  experienced;  while  as  to  the  Mediterranean, 
we  found  that  capricious  female  in  one  of  her  frown- 
ing and  contentious  moods.  It  was  now  we  expe- 
rienced one  defect  in  our  vessel,  though  possibly  she 
is  not  singular  in  this  :  she  could  not  carry  her  ports, 
as  the  phrase  goes  ;  and  therefore  they  were  almost 
always  closed,  an  inconvenience  more  unpleasantly 
felt  in  lower  and  warmer  latitudes. 

Who  has  landed  at  Naples  in  dark  wet  autumnal 
weather?  Paris  looks  dismal  enough  in  such  dis- 
guise. I  always  compare  her  to  a  chicken  in  the 
rain.  But  poor  lovely  Naples,  what  shall  be  said  of 
her  ?  It  was  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
2nd  of  November  before  we  touched,  and  of  course 
all  was  dull  and  dark.  Yet  one  or  two  young 
passengers,  on  their  first  visit  of  course,  came  on 
board  again  delighted.  Naples  has  her  reputation, 
and  therefore  she  mu.st  command  "  enjoyment,"  and 
youth  with  novelty  sees  all  with  joy. 

While  I  never  saw  Naples  look  so  miserable,  and 
scarcely  had  believed  it  so  capable  in  this  respect,  I 
never  saw  the  Straits  of  Messina  look  more  lovely. 
The  passage  through  must  be  almost  the  most 
smiling  and  glittering  in  the  world ;  but  to  make  the 
lovely  picture  quite  complete,  I  think  it  should  be 
approached  from  the  south.  I  could  not  but  recall 
a  summer   night's  passage  across  from   Messina  to 


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8  IVANDERIXGS   AXD    \VO\DER/XGS. 

Naples  in  May,  1S83.  The  moon  was  full,  and  the 
water  was  a  blue  mirror.  Everyone  v/as  on  deck  at 
midnight,  and  till  early  morning,  male  and  female. 
Groups  were  gathered  here  and  there,  and  guitars 
were  playing  to  accompany  soft  voices.  **  Truly," 
I  said  to  myself,  "  this  Italy  is  the  real  home  of  the 
serenade  and  sonnet." 

But  who,  with  a  stranger's  eye,  could  at  first  believe 
that  Etna  is  som?  io,odd  feet  high  ?  His  angle,  like 
that  of  most  volcanoes,  is  so  obtuse,  stretching  com- 
pletely down  into  the  sea,  that  the  height  of  his 
crown  is  overladen  with  the  vast  circle  of  his  base. 
In  this  respect  how  superior,  as  an  object  of  beauty, 
is  the  Peak  of  Tenerife,  my  ascent  of  which  I  have 
already  recorded  ;  he  is  a  real  Peak,  with  his  I2,20D 
feet  of  height. 

At  ten  p.m.  of  the  same  day  we  had  steamed 
out  of  Naples  in  the  dark  for  Port  Said,  and 
the  next  morning  broke  in  glory  over  the  azure 
waters,  fair  weather  continuing  till  we  came  to 
Port  Said  on  the  hot  quiet  morning  of  the  7th 
of  November ;  thus  finding  the  very  opposite  in 
all  respects  as  compared  with  our  stay  at  Naples  ; 
for  while  beauty  there  lay  hid  in  wet  and  dark, 
here  the  ugly  was  all  bright.  Coaling  being  now 
necessary,  Dr.  Reid,  an  army  surgeon,  and  Mr. 
Thompson,  a  district  judge  in  Madras  Presidency, 
easily  persuaded  me  to  go  ashore  with  them,  where 
we  indulged  ourselves  with  some  hot  games  at 
pyramids  in  that  rather  depressing  station,  and  where 
certain  melancholy  efforts  were  being  made  for  the 
diversion  of  idle  strollers  or  dwellers  ;  at  4.30  we 
sailed  again  for  the  Canal. 


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VOYAGE   OCT,  9 

Port  Said,  however,  must  now  be  considered  an 
interestinor  spot  from  its  standing  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Suez  Canal,  and  for  myself  there  gradually 
came  over  me,  as  we  wandered  listlessly  about,  re- 
membrances of  my  visit  to  Egypt  in  1879-80, 
with  my  late  friend,  Captain  Sir  Richard  Burton. 
We  passed  through  the  canal  in  about  twenty- 
four  hours ;  its  length  is  given  as  of  a  hundred 
English  miles,  or  160  kilometres,  or  so  many  five- 
eighths  of  a  mile  ;  but  we  were  forced  to  wait  from 
time  to  time  in  sidings.  A  striking  ghostly  night 
picture  was  thus  presented  to  us  when  we  met  and 
had  to  give  way  to  H.M.  war-ship  the  Audacious, 
with  all  her  crowded  crew  gazing  on  us,  and  recipro- 
cating cheers.  The  effects  of  the  intense  electric 
lighting  of  the  channel  were  indeed  electrifying  ;  all 
figures  appeared  to  belong  to  another  world,  while  all 
around  seemeJ  as  if  wrapped  in  another  world's 
snow. 

On  Thursday,  the  8th  of  November,  at  about  half- 
past  four  p.m.,  we  breasted  Suez,  but  did  not  touch, 
merely  lying-to  for  provision -boats.  Here  again  I 
recalled  1879,  when  all  was  new  to  me  in  that 
direction  of  the  world.  From  Friday  morning,  the 
9th,  till  Tuesday,  the  I3tli,  we  were  in  the  Red  Sea, 
but  encountered  no  great  suffering  from  the  heat 
until  we  came  to  dry,  hot,  rocky  Aden,  after  passing 
our  little  Perim  Island,  with  its  well-known  tale  of 
how  the  English  Admiral  dished  the  French  by 
snapping  possession  of  it.  I  must  confess  to  having 
shirked  going  ashore  at  Aden.  I  had  had  plenty  of 
experience  of  hot  skies  and  rocks  in  the  course  of 
my  life,  and  I  had  no  great  curiosity  about  the  tanks 


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10         WANDERINGS   AND    WONDER/NGS. 

as  tanks,  so  I  remained  on  board.  It  was  here  that 
Captain  Angove,  formerly  commanding  one  of  the 
Company's  vessels,  and  now  a  visiting  inspector, 
whose  society  was  a  help  to  me  while  it  lasted,  left 
the  boat.  I  remember  him  for  two  special  reasons, 
both  anecdotal.  It  was  he  who,  on  an  outward 
voyage,  after  several  real  captain's  refusals,  was  at  last 
downright  over-captained  by  his  passengers'  unre- 
mitting entreaties  to  allow  Blondin,  then  a  passenger, 
to  walk  along  the  top-mast  stays,  from  stem  to  stern. 
Blondin  was  successful,  but  declared  the  feat  to  have 
terribly  tried  him,  as  one  might  well  imagine  ;  and 
on  arriving  in  Calcutta  the  captain  was  roundly  taken 
to  task  by  the  Press  for  according  his  consent 

The  other  anecdote  may  be  well  laid  to  heart  by 
too-confident  talkers,  as  showing  how  you  may  be 
found  out  when  you  least  expect  it,  even  though  you 
talk  Hindoostani  in  London.  It  occurred  in  an 
omnibus  to  his  friend  Captain  SymonSj  who  told  it 
to  him  as  an  excellent  joke.  A  man  and  his  wife 
got  in  and  sat  opposite  to  him,  when  the  lady  ven- 
tured a  remark  to  her  husband  in  Hindoostani, 
which  I  shall  also  give  in  the  phrase  furnished  to 
me : — 

"  Dekho,  Sahib  ko  kaisa  bard  ndk  hai,"  which, 
being  interpreted,  saith,  "  Look  what  a  large  nose  that 
gentleman  has." 

Now,  Captain  Symons  had  a  large  nose,  and  he 
also  had  a  not  small  wit.  So,  to  the  horror  of  the 
good  lady,  he  immediately  rose  in  his  seat,  and 
taking  off  his  hat,  politely  replied  in  Hindoostani 
also  :  "  Han,  Sahib  bahut  bard  ndk  hai,"  which  again 


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VOYAGE   OUT,  II 

being  interpreted,  saith,  "  Yes,  madam,  I  have  a  very- 
large  nose." 

Having  Captain  Angove's  full  permission  to  give 
the  anecdote,  I  do  not  lose  the  chance  of  doing  so. 

We  left  on  Thursday,  the  13th  of  November,  and 
on  that  day  week,  the  20th,  behold,  like  a  second 
Vasco  da  Gama,  I  caught  my  first  sight  of  India,  on 
the  west  coast  towards  Cape  Comorin. 

I  cannot  say  the  land  at  all  corresponded  in  im- 
portance of  appearance  with  the  grandeur  of  the 
Empire.  It  must  have  presented  exactly  this  same 
low,  flat  aspect  to  the  renowned  Portuguese  navigator 
as  he  approached  it  from  Africa,  and  made  for  Cali- 
cut, higher  up  on  the  Malabar  coast,  where  he  landed 
in  May,  1498.  But  we  were  not  going  to  Calicut, 
and  therefore  continued  our  course  towards  Ceylon. 
On  the  afternoon  of  the  20th  we  caught  our  first  view 
of  this  island,  which  presents  a  far  more  elevated  out- 
line than  Malabar,  and  among  the  heads  there  stood 
out  prominently  that  of  Adam's  Peak,  to  which 
Camoens  makes  allusion  in  his  tenth  Canto. 

At  five  o'clock  we  landed  in  Colombo,  and  Mr. 
Ford,  of  Hammersmith,  one  of  the  passengers,  drove 
with  me  about  seven  miles  out  of  town  to  the  Grand 
Hotel,  at  Mount  Lavinia,  on  the  shore.  Here  we 
dined  and  slept,  joining  the  steamer  by  railway  in  the 
morning,  as  we  were  under  orders  for  sailing  by  ten, 
though  wc  did  not  leave  before  one.  Nothing  could 
have  afllbrded  us  a  more  lovely  night  scene  than 
Mount  Lavinia.  The  moon  was  full,  and  of  a 
Cinhalese  silver ;  the  curving  sands  were  white,  and 
the  sea  of  a  lovely  blue.     The  air  was   more  than 


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12  IVJXDE/^/XGS   AXD    IVONDERIXGS, 

merely  warm,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  there  were  more 
than  one  dabbler  within  the  water's  fringes.  All  lay 
below  the  eye,  for  the  hotel  is  built  on  a  certain 
rocky  height.  In  truth,  as  the  story  goes,  this  fine 
building  was  never  intended  for  an  hotel,  and  the 
style  of  the  rooms  (so  to  call  them)  that  Mr.  Ford 
and  I  slept  in  favour  the  tale.  Our  two  compart- 
ments were  arranged  by  a  mere  low  perlorated 
wooden  screen  being  raised  across  a  very  large  and 
lofty  room  ;  highly  inconvenient,  particularly  as  Mr. 
Ford  was  a  very  long  while  getting  to  bed,  which 
joke  he  will  remember.  The  story,  then,  is  this  :  that 
Sir  C.  Barnes,  when  Governor,  considered  he  was 
entitled  to  a  marine  villa,  and  commenced  the  build- 
ing, which  he  named  after  Lady  Barnes,  in  anticipa- 
tion of  the  home  Government's  acquiescence.  But 
after  the  long  interval  then  occupied  in  sending  home 
and  receiving  a  reply,  that  reply  came  in  the  nega- 
tive, and  the  building  was  sold,  and  degraded  to  its 
present  uses. 

On  the  2 1  St,  then,  we  steamed  out  of  Colombo — 
my  real  visit  to  the  island  being  postponed  for  a 
later  date — and  made  for  Madras;  in  taking  which 
course  iry  ignorance  was  enlightened  by  finding  that 
we  were  obliged  to  steer  round  the  island  of  Ceylon 
to  get  there,  as  the  direct  course  is  blocked  by  the 
chain  of  rocks  and  small  islands  called  Adam's 
Bridge,  running  between  the  coast  of  India  and 
Ceylon.  We  reached  Madras  on  the  night  of  the 
23rd,  and  the  morning  of  the  24th  showed  us  the 
low,  dcsponding-looking  shore  in  floods  of  rain.  It 
seemed    impossible    not    to    pity   those   passengers 


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CALCUTTA.  13 

whose  destinations  doomed  them  to  disembark ; 
and  thus  bestowing  on  them  this  cheap  sentiment, 
we  took  our  departure  for  Calcutta. 

At  about  the  age  of  nine  I  had  first  read  of  the 
Black  Hole  of  Calcutta  in  1756;  and  in  188S,  at 
seventy,  I  was  to  first  see  Calcutta,  but  no  real 
vestige  of  the  Black  Hole  was  to  remain.  How 
Europe  has  invaded  Asia  !  The  first  incident  of  our 
passage  from  Madras  was  our  being  boarded  by  a 
Calcutta  pilot.  These  pilots,  as  I  shortly  came  to 
learn,  are  not  merely  the  stalwart  rough-and-ready 
officers  that  one  is  accustomed  to  meet  in  other 
ports  ;  but  they  arc  men  of  education  and  position, 
and  are  in  receipt  of  high  pay ;  and  well  may  it  be 
so,  for  the  Hugli  river,  through  which  muddy  stream 
you  approach  Calcutta,  is  full  of  danger,  especially 
near  the  **jal  m^ri,"  or  fatal  water,  corrupted  into 
the  "  James  and  Mary.'*  The  most  casual  view  of 
the  map  will  suffice  to  show  what  the  Hugli  must 
be  as  a  matter  of  navigation ;  but  with  the  fresh 
comer  novelty  asserts  her  charm,  even  including  the 
disagreeable.  Observe  Sagar  Island  on  the  right, 
with  its  light-houses,  dense  jungles,  tigers  everywhere, 
and  snakes.  These  are  not  the  Eastern  grandeurs 
that  Westerns  come  out  to  see.  The  whole  of 
the  Sunderbunds  show  nothing  but  the  flat  and 
marshy.  Gradually  steering  onwards,  you  come  to 
the  deserted  palace  of  the  quondam  King  of  Oudc, 
looking  as  tawdry  as  many  other  highly-pictured 
eastern  palaces  and  gardens  do.  Afterwards  comes 
*' Garden  Reach*' pleasantly  spotted  with  comfortable- 
looking  villas,  the  water  being  crowded  with  a  small 


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14  IVANDER/XGS   AXD    WONDEHIXGS, 

forest  of  masts,  showing  how  vulgar  Western  com- 
merce invades  the  East  to  make  it  comfortable. 
"  Commerce  is  not  everything,"  says  some  one.  But 
what  is  Everything  ?  Rather  a  vulgar  robe  than 
none  at  all,  even  in  hot  Calcutta.  At  last  we  are  at 
the  landing-place,  having  seen  the  city  for  some  few 
miles  down  stream. 


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II. 


It  was  on  Wednesday,  the  nth  of  November,  that 
we  arrived  ;  luckily  so  early  as  half-past  ten  in  the 
morning,  for  the  noise  and  confusion  among  the 
natives  on  the  quay  were  indeed  noisy  and  con- 
fusing. One  feature  of  this  eastern  crowd  at  once 
struck  me  as  compared  with  others;  the  predomi- 
nance of  plain  white  loose  clothing,  with  dark  and 
black  faces  at  the  top.  In  the  rush  and  push,  I 
managed  to  get  myself  arrested  by  some  officer 
from  the  Great  Eastern  Hotel,  whither  I  had 
telegraphed  from  Colombo,  and  was  carried  off  at 
once,  without  further  hearing,  in  a  flimsy,  clatter- 
ing cab  or  gir^.  Behold  me,  therefore,  safe  at 
Calcutta  to  begin  with. 

On  entering  Calcutta  I  made  my  first  acquaint- 
ance with  it  as  it  presented  itself  to  me.  I  did  not 
begin  to  think  of  all  its  statistical  features,  any  more 
than  one  asks  a  person  on  first  introduction  as  to  age, 
pedigree,  and  capacities  ;  and  in  this  way  my  first 
impression  was,  after  passing  through  certain  other 
streets,  that  the  Old  Court  House  Street  was  a  very 
fine  one.  Here  I  was  shortly  deposited  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Great  Eastern,  mounting  a  handsome 
staircase  to  a  long,  handsome  corridor,  with  a  dark 
office  on  the  right,  where  the  baboo  sat  who  was  to 
assign  me  my  room  ;  and  No.  46  was  assigned  to  me 


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1 6  WANDERINGS   AND    IVONDERINGS, 

on  that  same  floor  accordingly.  This  room  lay  on 
the  left  side  of  a  long  dark  passage  almost  facing 
the  staircase ;  and  as  I  soon  afterwards  discovered 
that  there  are  two  Calcuttas,  so,  I  may  say,  that  I 
at  once  here  discovered  that  there  were  two  Great 
Easterns — that  is  to  say,  two  very  different  aspects 
of  the  hotel.  The  passage  and  its  rooms  were  not 
equal  to  the  grand  broad  corridor.  Continuing  from 
this  latter  you  enter  a  fine  dining-room,  a  good 
reading-room  and  billiard-rooms,  and  in  front  is  a 
fine,  open  balcony,  looking  full  on  the  wide  street, 
and  almost  commanding  the  lordly  pile  and  grounds 
of  Government  House.  Underneath,  running  the 
whole  length,  is  an  almost  gigantic  store,  where  you 
may  purchase  anything  you  do,  or  don't,  want,  from 
a  sugar-plum  to  a  blunderbuss,  and  where  I  at 
cnce,  under  sound  advice,  purchased  a  Shikar  hat, 
to  hunt  the  sun.  As  to  my  bedroom,  though  it 
was  commodious,  all  was  rickety,  and  suggested 
a  valuation  by  pence.  My  windov\s  looked  out 
into  a  side  street,  and  in  the  early  morning  I 
was  very  sensibly  made  aware  of  what  frightful 
monkey  jabberings  the  Bengalee  workman  can  excel 
in.  But  the  curiosity  was  exciting  with  which 
I  opened  the  blinds  to  view  the  scene  below. 
There  they  were  in  groups ;  some  unloading  cargo, 
and  others  loading  rubbish-carts — a  hateful  sight — 
and  while  something  more  than  usually  offensive 
was  being  heaped  on  these,  a  watchful  set  of  kites,  or 
some  kindred  bird,  sw^ooped  down  in  groups,  and 
deftly  seized  the  morsel  as  they  flew  past  without 
settling. 


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CALCUTTA.  17 

For  a  new-comer,  with  a  constitutional  incapacity 
for  tough  meat,  the  feeding  could  not  be  very 
attractive ;  but  the  turbaned  and  naked-footed 
waiter  (no  servant  must  wear  shoes  in  India),  whom 
chance  fixed  me  to,  did  his  best  among  the  number. 
The  discharge  of  soda-water  for  the  whisky  was 
like  that  of  irregular  musketry,  showing  that  the 
old  pale  ale  days  of  my  two  late  cousins  twice  re- 
moved, Hodgson  and  Drane,  now  really  removed 
indeed,  and  of  whom  Bass  is  but  a  feeble  imita- 
tion, had  given  place  to  hygienic  considerations. 
Beetle  is  a  good  and  constant  fish  at  table,  and  if 
you  order  eggs  for  breakfast,  you  will  find  the  Indian 
hens  lay  very  small  ones,  and  that  the  spoons  you 
have  to  eat  them  with  are  very  large. 

A  letter  of  introduction  from  General  Scott  Elliot 
to  Mr.  Hyde,  a  barrister  of  the  High  Court,  led  to  a 
very  pleasant  visit,  when  I  had  the  advantage  of  going 
over  the  whole  building  with  him,  and  it  was  in  par- 
taking of  his  and  Mrs.  Hyde's  hospitality  a  day  or  two 
afterwards  that  I  became  acquainted  with  the  stately 
style  of  house  and  garden  that  forms  the  usual  resi- 
dence in  the  grand  modern  Calcutta,  which  is  called 
the  City  of  Palaces.  Later  on  I  dined  with  Mr. 
Louis  Paul,  on  an  introduction  from  his  father,  Mr. 
Kegan  Paul,  and  was  again  struck  with  the  same 
aspect  of  dwelling.  Here  it  was  what  is  called  a 
•*  Chummery,"  where  three  or  four  "  chum  "  together ; 
but  the  apparent  pomp  is  quite  the  same,  and  runs 
through  alL  It  is  a  curious  mode  of  life  in  India  : 
natural,  but  curious  to  a  new-comer.  You  never 
seem  indoors.      Doors  nor  windows  are  ever  shut. 

C 


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1 8  IVAXDERIXCS   AXD    IVOXDERIXGS. 

You  really  miss  them,  being  all  left  open,  but  it  is 
evident  you  could  not  bear  them  shut  Yet,  when 
the  nights  are  chilly,  as  they  are  apt  to  be  in  winter, 
you  seem  to  want  protection. 

In  the  afternoon  I  found  myself,  by  invitation,  in 
Mr.  Walkers  balcony,  overlooking  the  entrance  to 
Government  House,  to  see  the  arrival  of  Lord 
Dufferin,  from  the  Sialda  Station,  on  his  return 
from  visiting  Decca.  As  an  Indian  procession  it 
was  novel  and  interesting.  The  body-guard  was  im- 
pressive ;  the  white-dressed  crowd  was  large,  and  as 
they  dispersed  across  the  park,  or  maidan,  the  effect 
was  very  striking.  What  the  European  eye  misses 
in  these  multitudes  is  women. 

On  the  next  day  I  received  a  letter  from  the 
Viceroy's  Private  Secretary,  in  answer  to  one  from 
me,  appointing  12.30  on  Monday  for  my  waiting 
upon  his  Excellency.  In  the  meantime  Mr.  Paul 
had  invited  me  to  luncheon  at  the  cricket-ground 
and  to  the  races  afterwards.  Accordingly,  on  Satur- 
day, the  1st  of  December,  we  went  in  Mr.  Paul's 
dog-cart ;  and  even  as  I  had  been  astonished  at 
cricket  in  hot  South  Africa,  so  was  I  astonished  here 
at  the  zest  and  activity  displayed  in  hot  Calcutta  in 
this  truly  English  game.  At  this  time  of  year,  how- 
ever, the  ground  is  not  so  harsh  and  dry  as  I  had 
seen  it  near  Cape  Town.  The  races  followed, 
attended  also  by  a  numerous  white  crowd.  It  was 
what  is  called  their  First  Extra  Meeting.  The 
Viceroy  and  Lady  Dufferin  were  present,  and  the 
whole  proceeding  was  a  success.  But  a  strange  and, 
I  should  imagine,  unique  circumstance  occurred  with 


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CALCUTTA.  19 

the  chief  race.  Many  false  starts  took  place  in  the 
distance,  until  at  last  we  saw  two  horses  come  right 
away.  In  total  ignorance  that  they  were  not  accom- 
panied by  the  field,  and  that  the  start  was  again  a 
false  one,  they  came  belting  along  and  kept  in  view 
the  whole  way  round,  to  discover  their  mistake  at  the 
end.  These  two  horses  turned  out  to  be  the  two 
favourites,  so  that  a  mere  outsider  came  in  first.  So 
much  for  the  error.  Now  mark  a  curious  result. 
One  man  only,  by  what  is  called  the  Totalizator 
System,  I  believe,  had  put  his  money  by  mere 
accident  on  that  outsider,  and  by  this  happy  chance 
thus  became  the  astonished  possessor  of  something 
between  70/.  and  100/,  In  such  hap-hazard  manner 
do  things  happen  for  either  good  or  bad. 

On  the  Sunday  I  dined  with  Mr.  Paul  at  his 
"  Chunnmery,'*  and  felt  as  if  I  were  at  a  lord's  dwell- 
ing ;  and  on  the  Monday  I  paid  my  private  visit  to 
his  Excellency  the  Viceroy,  having  the  honour,  in 
response  to  a  most  friendly  reception,  of  wishing  his 
Excellency  a  happy  voyage  to  England  ;  when  he 
kindly  accepted  a  copy  of  my  "  Fight  with  Distances," 
which  related  something  of  his  favourite  Canada, 
and  would  serve  to  beguile  an  hour  or  two  on  his 
passage  home. 

Calcutta  at  this  time  of  year,  though  always  hot  at 
noon,  is  particularly  fresh  at  morning  and  evening. 
The  climate,  in  fact,  put  me  very  much  in  mind  of 
that  of  Rio  in  the  winter,  though  Rio  has  hills  about 
it.  But  the  noons  here  are  more  trying.  While  wait- 
ing to  see  his  Excellency,  and  holding  a  pleasant 
conversation  with  one  of  the  aides-de-camp — Captain 

C  2 


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20  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

Curling,  if  I  mistake  not — he  asked  the  usual  question, 
'  How  do  you  like  Calcutta  ? ''  to  which  I  replied  in 
the  above  sense.  "  I  hope,"  said  he,  very  naturally, 
"  you  will  not  go  home  and  say  we  have  nothing  to 
complain  of."  Perhaps  they  who  suffer  India  all 
through  the  year  are  often  vexed  by  such  ridiculous 
remarks  of  inexperience  made  by  those  who  come 
out  at  a  chosen  season  only.  But  I  relieved  his  mind, 
and  then  he  told  me  that  the  very  horses  had  dropped 
down  dead  in  the  streets  during  the  last  summer. 
Indeed,  Mr.  Hyde  had  already  informed  me  that  they 
had  been  obliged  to  shut  up  the  Law  Courts — ay, 
and,  I  believe,  at  the  request  of  the  Natives  them- 
selves !  Ere  these  terrible  days  arrive  the  Viceroy 
of  the  hour  has  safely  started  for  the  North  ;  and, 
alas  !  for  those  whose  duty  still  binds  them  to  the 
South. 

On  my  return  to  the  hotel  I  was  greatly  pleased  at 
finding  on  my  table  a  card  with  the  name  of  '*  James 
Ramsay."  In  this  I  recognized  an  old  friend,  who 
had  worked  as  a  district  engineer  on  the  Sao  Paulo 
Railway  in  the  now  far-away  country  of  Brazil !  It 
was  more  than  twenty  years  since  we  had  seen  one 
another,  and  I  now  found  him  Engineer-in-Chief  on 
the  Western  Bengal  Railway.  He  happened  to  be  in 
Calcutta,  and  had  caught  sight  of  my  name ;  and 
you  may  imagine  the  novel  sensation  of  such  an  un- 
expected meeting,  after  so  many  years,  in  so  different 
a  country,  and  in  one  so  far  away  from  where  we 
had  lived  almost  together  before.  So  things  turn 
out,  and  so  people  turn  up  !  We  were  not  long  in 
making   up   our   minds  that  we    would    travel    to 


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CALCUTTA.  21 

Darjeeling  together,  and  see  the  great  Kanchinjunga. 
But  when  ?     A  few  days  did  not  then  much  signify 
to  either  of  us.     But  the  truth  was  that,  while  waiting 
for  my  interview  at  Government  House,  I  had  been 
dazzled  by  two  most  gorgeously-apparelled  Rajahs, 
who  went  in   before  me ;  and  as   I  heard  that   the 
Viceroy  was  to  have  a  farewell  garden  party  on  Friday, 
the  7th  December,  I  was  most  anxious  to  see  (as  I 
thought  I  should)  a  crowd  of  these  astounders.     We 
therefore  agreed  to  delay  our  departure  till  the  Satur- 
day ;    that,  indeed,   being    the  day  on  which  Lord 
Dufferin    was  himself  to  depart,  and  his  successor, 
Lord  Lansdowne,  to  arrive.     Ramsay  had  the  entree, 
so  I  called  on  Lord  William  Beresford,  who  warmly 
engaged  me  to  appear.     When  the  day  came,  how- 
ever, it  was  a  dull  afternoon,  and  an  insipid  mass  of 
mere  European  costumes  parasolled  about  the  lawns. 
Few  indeed  were  the  gorgeous  colours,  except  in  the 
evening  sky,  which  suddenly  glowed  with  glory  ;   but 
I  had  often  seen  that  sort  of  sight ;  the  Rajahs'  suns 
had   all    "set"  privately  before;  and  the  two  that 
tempted  me  to  stay  showed  but  the  last  remaining 
glow. 

One  of  my  calls  meanwhile  was  upon  Sir  Charles 
H.  J.  Crosthwaite,  the  Chief  Commissioner  for 
Burma,  who  happened  to  be  in  Calcutta  at  that 
moment  ;  for  Lord  Dufferin  had  most  strongly 
recommended  me  to  pay  a  visit  to  that  country, 
if  only  a  short  one,  and  to  call  upon  Sir  Charles. 
His  Excellency  made  me  a  most  friendly  suggestion 
that  I  should  come  down  with  him  on  the  13th,  which 
I  was  quite  unable  to  do  ;  and  thus  had  to  postpone 


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22  IVANDERIXGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

Burma  for  Darjeeling,  for  my  friend  could  not  stay. 
Saturday,  the  8th  December,  witnessed  a  remarkable 
scene  in  all  the  preparations  for  the  entry  of  the  now 
present  Viceroy,  and  the  departure  of  the  late.  All 
the  neighbouring  quarters  of  the  city  were  alive  with 
life  and  colour ;  and  amidst  this  mighty  movement 
we  two  took  our  unperceived  departure  also. 


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III. 


My  friend's  companionship  proved  of  much  impor- 
tance. At  the  Sealdah  Station  he  met  an  engineer- 
ing friend,  who  introduced  him  to  Mr.  Prestage,  the 
General  Manager  of  the  remarkable  DarjeeHng 
Railway — quite  one  of  the  sights  of  India — and  this 
stood  us  in  great  stead,  not  only  on  the  line  itself, 
but  also  at  DarjeeHng  and  on  our  return.  We  left 
Calcutta  at  4.30  p.m.  (Calcutta  time)  by  the  Eastern 
Bengal  Railway,  and  in  about  five  hours  and  a  half 
we  were,  after  120  miles'  run,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Ganges,  and  were  to  cross  to  S^rd  Ghat  by  ferry. 

"  Why  don't  they  bridge  the  river  ?  "  I  innocently 
inquired  of  Mr.  Prestage,  to  which  his  answer  was  : 
"  So  they  will  if  you  will  guarantee  them  a  certain 
line ;  but  when  your  structure  was  ready  the  river 
would  be  elsewhere."  Thus  is  it  with  these  straggling 
and  unruly  streams.  Of  how  far  greater  value  our 
tractable  silver  Thames  !  The  ferry-boat  was  a  very 
good  one,  and  the  food  they  gave  us  very  fair. 
We  occupied  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  crossing, 
and  with  a  short  walk  joined  the  North  Bengal 
Railway  for  196  miles  to  Siliguri.  Here  Mr.  Prestage 
secured  us  a  sleeping-car  to  ourselves.  This  line, 
however,  is  constructed  on  the  metre  gauge  only, 
and  the  travelling  was  very  rough.  Thus  we  passed 
through  the  night  and  again  through  the  day  over 


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24  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

the  flat  hot  plain  ;  and  as  we  went  I  could  but 
wonder,  thinking  of  the  former  times,  what  those 
who  fled  from  Calcutta's  summer  must  have  then 
gone  through  on  this  same  journey,  and  what  must 
have  been  the  heats  of  the  city  from  which  they  felt 
forced  to  fly.  The  journeys  must  have  been  under- 
taken at  night-time  assuredly. 

At  length  we  came  to  Siliguri,  having  kept  the 
great  Kanchinjunga  in  distant  view  for  several 
hours ;  and  here  we  entered  the  domain  of  what 
they  call  the  Steam  Tram.  It  is  a  two-feet  gauge 
railway  of  some  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  mounts 
to  Darjeeling.  It  is  at  Sookna,  the  first  station, 
about  seven  miles  distant,  that  the  tramway  begins 
to  ascend,  and  hence  for  the  whole  way  the  journey 
is  most  exciting.  Not  only  is  the  wooded  scenery, 
with  its  occasional  vast  forest  precipices,  continuously 
beautiful,  but  the  railway  itself,  with  its  curves, 
and  gradients,  and  circles,  and  switchbacks,  is  a 
perfect  marvel ;  and  every  now  and  then,  it  may 
be  confessed,  is  a  rather  alarming  one.  At  Kurseong 
you  obtain  excellent  refreshment,  particularly  in  the 
bread — the  best  I  tasted  through  all  my  three  years — 
and  while  you  repose,  there  lies  a  fine  vast,  out- 
spreading view  far  below  you  of  the  main  famous  tea- 
gardens  of  Darjeeling.  This  gives  you  an  altitude  of 
Sooo  feet,  the  highest  point  on  the  line  being  7300 
feet.  It  was  dark  when  we  arrived  at  the  terminus 
on  Sunday  evening,  the  9th  of  December,  and  here 
we  were  met  by  my  friend  Mr.  Ford,  who  guided  us 
to  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Roberts'  comfortable  "  Woodlands 
Hotel,"  where  everybody  stays,  and  who  very  oppor- 


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DARJEEUNG,  2$ 

tunely  cautioned  us  (myself,  at  all  events)  to  be 
careful  of  the  first  effects  of  the  rarified  air.  This  I 
certainly  experienced  at  first  in  some  slight  degree, 
and  was  glad  of  an  arm  in  making  the  last  stiff 
climb  on  foot  from  the  station  to  our  hospitable 
Eyrie. 

There  is  a  certain  advantage  in  arriving  at  a  place 
like  Darjeeling  at  night.  You  have  no  half- 
developed  first  view  when  you  are  tired,  and  you 
wait  for  the  first  grand  scenic  effect  on  the  waking 
of  the  first  fresh  morning.  Thus  we  went  to  bed 
and  slept,  with  orders  for  early  calling,  to  see  the 
sunrise;  and  morning  came,  and  before  the  sun- 
rise we  were  at  our  windows,  and  Kanchinjunga  was 
before  us.  It  is  the  very  finest  form  of  mountain,  as 
seen  from  Darjeeling,  that  I  ever  beheld;  and  by- 
and-by  the  light  increased,  and  gradually  a  growing 
brightness  foretokened  what  was  coming.  The 
roses  and  the  azures  dawned  and  deepened,  and 
presently  the  highest  peak  was  glowing  in  live  sun- 
shine. So  came  on  the  day  to  introduce  us  to  more 
intimacy  with,  I  should  suppose,  the  finest,  if  not  the 
very  highest,  mountain  in  the  world. 

On  Monday,  the  loth,  we  made  a  riding  party, 
and  visited  the  Obser\'atory  Hill,  whence  the  view 
of  the  mountain  appeared  particularly  fine,  but  I 
came  to  analyze  the  peculiarity  of  these  views  more 
minutely  on  my  second  and  more  prolonged  visit,  of 
which  I  shall  speak  later  on.  Let  me  at  once  remark, 
however,  that  his  main  form  is  pyramidal ;  that  the 
colours  of  his  massive  rock  become  gradually  lighter 
as  they  approach  the  top  ;  and  that  the  distance  in  a 


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26  IVANDERIXGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

bee-line  to  his  peak  has  been  measured  as  of  forty 
miles  ;  thus  corresponding  with  that  of  the  main  peaks 
of  the  Oberland  Range,  as  seen  from  Berne,  whereof 
let  no  man  speak  slightingly.  We  made  a  skir- 
mishing inspection  of  the  very  picturesque  surround- 
ings to-day,  and  on  the  next,  Tuesday,  the  iitb,  we 
rode  up  to  Tiger's  Hill  (as  it  is  called),  whence 
a  sight  is  caught  of  just  the  peak  of  Mount  Everest, 
or  rather  Gaurisankar,  the  really  highest  moun- 
tain in  the  world ;  but  on  this  occasion  nought 
thereof  was  visible,  for  the  weather  had  changed, 
and  in  the  place  of  a  spotless  sky  our  imaginative 
faculties  were  greeted  with  the  very  wildest  and 
strangest  possible  broken  masses  of  wandering  and 
flying  white  mountain  clouds.  These  rolled  about 
among  the  enormous  crags  and  gorges,  never 
allowing  anything  to  be  clearly  seen,  and  yet  now 
and  then  opening  to  us  glimpses  of  vast  passing 
fields  of  intense  sunshine.  This  was  what  we  did 
not  come  to  see;  still  it  was  impossible  not  to  be 
charmed  with  seeing  it,  for  the  mountainous  features 
of  the  country  are  so  gigantic  here  that  all  effects 
are  quite  surpassing. 

On  the  following  day  the  weather  had  changed 
again,  and  all  was  bright ;  so  I  repeated  this  excur- 
sion, though  I  had  to  go  alone.  The  panorama  was 
spotless,  and  over  the  opposite  brow  appeared  the 
three  expected  snowy  tips  or  tops  ;  and  that  is  all 
one  sees  or  guesses  here  of  the  great  Mount  Everest. 
Indeed,  the  largest  to  your  right  is  certainly  not  he  ; 
his  head  is  the  middle  one  ;  this  on  my  second  visit  to 
Darjeeling  I  verified  in  an  excursion  to  Sundukphu. 


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DAR/EELIXG.  2/ 

Another  advantage  of  our  introduction  to  Mr. 
Prestage  was  his  introduction  of  us  to  Mr.  Lloyd,  a 
Director,  if  not  the  Chairman,  of  the  Darjceling  h'ne  ; 
for  when  I  started  for  Calcutta  on  the  Thursday 
morning,  the  latter  took  me  down  for  a  certain 
distance  in  an  open  trolly  fixed  to  the  train,  and 
thence  to  the  foot  I  joined  Mr.  Prestage  in  a  sepa- 
rate trolly  altogether.  Thus  I  had  the  fullest  possible 
opportunity  of  appreciating  this  astonishing  fifty  miles 
of  railway  ;  the  passage  down  which,  however,  was 
not  quite  so  thrilling  as  my  sixty-mile-an-hour  de- 
scent in  a  trolly  of  the  Santa  Theresa  railway  near 
Rio,  with  the  Minister  of  Marine.  In  descending, 
the  vast  tea  plantations  far  below  are  opened  out 
to  the  view  in  a  very  striking  manner ;  and  the 
various  aspects  of  Kanchinjunga  from  the  ridgt-s 
of  the  line,  which  we  had  missed  in  the  dark  on  our 
journey  up,  completely  engrossed  one's  astonishment 
and  admiration.  Mr.  Lloyd  informed  me  that  these 
tea  plantations — the  cultivation  not  being  new  to 
me — were  not  more  than  twenty  or  thirty  years 
old.  The  close  of  the  border  contests  had  left  much 
waste  lands  to  be  redeemed,  and  tea  was  then  hit 
upon  for  covering  all  slopes  and  valleys. 


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IV. 


On  arriving  in  Calcutta  my  first  thought  was  a 
visit  to  Burma  (as  had  been  recommended  to  me), 
with  the  intention  of  going  up  the  Irrawaddy  as  far 
as  Mandalay.  It  was  the  proper  moment  to  do  this, 
before  entering  on  my  Indian  and  Kashmir  excur- 
sions ;  and  accordingly  I  took  my  berth  in  the  British 
Indian  Company's  steamer  Putiala^  which  I  was  to 
join  at  Diamond  Harbour  on  Thursday  morning, 
the  20th  of  December.  My  native  servant,  I  found, 
was  to  manage  for  himself,  amongst  a  host  of  others, 
on  the  fore-deck,  and  I  paid  $io  for  his  passage. 
Not  feeling  quite  certain  about  this  arrangement,  I 
was  enlightened  by  the  question,  "  What  does  he  want 
more  ?  "  nor  did  he  at  all  expect  more.  This  settled 
plan  gave  me  a  week  at  Calcutta,  and  as  I  had  a 
floating  curiosity,  and  only  a  floating  one,  about 
Katmandoo,  the  capital  of  Nepaul,  I  obtained  an 
introduction  by  Mr.  Longley  to  an  exile  of  the 
former  royal  family,  then  quietly  living  in  Calcutta. 
This  was  General  Kedar  Nursing,  or  (as  I  have  it) 
Kedarnursing  Jung  Behadon.  He  received  me  with 
great  pleasure  and  pleasantness,  and  was  not  long  in 
proving  his  familiarity  with  the  English  language  by 
informing  me  that  Katmandoo  was  "beastly  dirty." 
With  a  little  extra  zest,  perhaps,  he  strongly  dis- 


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CALCUTTA,  29 

suaded  me  from  undertaking  the  journey.  All  this 
was  information,  though  I  did  not  need  deter- 
ring from  any  intention  I  did  not  entertain.  He 
told  me  the  journey  would  be  very  trying  and 
fatiguing  ;  that  one  must  pass  through  a  district  of 
the  most  poisonous  malaria ;  that  when  I  got  there 
I  should  be  watched  and  controlled — indeed,  that  the 
English  Resident  was  quite  a  prisoner — and  that  at 
that  time  of  year  the  vast  chain  of  mountains  would 
assuredly  be  clouded.  The  Rajah,  he  said,  was  then 
only  twelve  years  of  age,  and  a  mere  Pagoda.  He 
gave  me  his  photograph,  and  wrote  my  name  in 
Sanscrit,  which,  he  said,  was  the  real  language  of  the 
country  ;  but  that  the  indigenous  race  who  spoke  it 
had  been  conquered  and  driven  in  by  the  Rajputanas 
when  they  fled  thither  from  the  tyrannies  of  the 
Mogul  emperors.  Our  interview  was  so  pleasant 
that,  before  finally  leaving  Calcutta,  I  paid  him  a 
second  visit  to  say  "good-bye."  Singularly  enough, 
a  few  days  after  my  first  visit,  I  had  all  his  reports 
confirmed  by  Mr.  Watson,  a  well-known  dentist  in 
Calcutta,  to  whom  I  had  to  appeal  for  a  small  timely 
service  to  prevent  the  necessity  of  a  greater  one  by- 
and-by.  He  had  been  to  Katmandoo,  in  aid  of 
the  teeth  of  the  Commander-in-Chief — teeth,  you 
see,  can  be  troublesome  in  Nepaul — but  he  would  not 
go  again  on  any  account.  One  reason  for  this  was 
that,  from  some  mere  accidental  oversight,  he  failed 
to  salute  his  Excellency,  whereupon  that  offended 
spirit  (like  all  people  of  small  birth)  was  highly  indig- 
nant, and  with  indefensible  ingratitude  **  showed  his 
teeth,"  even  against  him  from  whom  he  had  so  recently 


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30  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

received  them.  But  the  journey  alone  was  enough  ; 
privations  and  fatigues  were  incurred  throughout. 
Everything  must  be  taken  with  you,  and  all  is  badly 
economized  and  cooked.  Rough  bearers,  clumsy 
elephants — what  elephant  doesn't  feel  clumsy? — no 
howdah,  and  the  animaPs  chain  thrown  over  its  back 
and  against  your  own.  All  this  would  be  nothing 
to  a  real  explorer,  but  a  professional  man  does  not 
belong  to  that  category,  nor  does  every  traveller. 
One  anecdote  which  Mr.  Watson  told  me  I  must  not 
omit  to  add.  I  am  not  quite  sure  he  saw  the  per- 
formance, but  certainly  he  received  it  from  a  source 
that  justified  his  repeating  it.  A  group  of  common 
people  were  about  to  take  their  meal.  They  seized 
upon  a  goat  and  tied  its  four  legs  all  together.  They 
then  flung  it  living  on  a  huge  bonfire,  and  when  it 
had  been  well,  scorched  and  perhaps  just  heated 
through,  they  tore  it  open  and  devoured  it.  So 
much  for  Nepaul  and  Katmandoo !  which  I  shall 
never  see. 

I  had  several  drives  with  my  friend  round  the  grand 
maidan,  or  park,  or  meadow,  a  grand  open  stretch 
of  grass,  and  after  he  left  I  employed  the  rest  of  my 
time  in  visiting  the  Botanical  and  Zoological  Gardens 
and  other  scenes  of  the  city.  In  the  former,  the 
grand  sight  is  the  most  wonderful  banyan  tree  in  the 
world.  The  word  "  immense  "  is  scarcely  immense 
enough  to  give  any  idea  of  its  almost  fabulous  extent, 
and  when  you  have  come  away  your  memory  mis- 
gives you  as  to  what  you  have  seen.  I  was  surprised 
some  years  ago  at  the  size  of  one  at  Alexandria.  It 
is  as  a  pea  to  the  moon  !    For    these  Gardens  you 


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CALCUTTA,  31 

must  cross  the  Hugli,  and  the  sight  from  the  middle 
of  the  bridge  should  not  be  omitted  for  its  own  self, 
even  under  the  interruption  of  passing  vessels.  Life 
abounds  and  gives  one  life. 

At  the  Zoological  Gardens  the  object  that  chiefly 
struck  me  was  the  man-eating  tiger.  In  general,  I 
have  been  told,  these  man-eating  tigers  are  the  old 
mangy  ones,  that  find  their  lord  and  master,  man 
— the  most  defenceless  of  born  animals  in  nature — 
their  easiest  prey,  for  they  are  unable  to  chase  the 
fleeter  animals.  Thus,  though  man  claims  to  have 
dominion  given  him  over  all  things,  many  tigers  are 
quite  capable  of  teaching  him  another  lesson,  under 
mere  natural  conditions ;  and  when  this  vaunted 
phrase  was  given  forth,  rifles  and  explosive  balls  had 
not  been  invented.  In  this  case,  however,  the  man- 
eater  was  no  mangy  tiger.  He  was  a  royal  Bengal 
tiger  of  the  most  fearful  size,  elasticity,  and  power.  I 
saw  him  at  his  best,  and  the  effect  was  greater  be- 
cause he  was  in  his  own  country.  He  was  asleep 
inside,  and  I  gave  the  attendant  bakhshish  to  rouse 
him  up.  Forth  he  presently  came,  grand,  alarming, 
and  irate,  and  I  felt  quite  willing  to  concede  to  him 
the  empire. 

I  have  already  said  there  are  two  Calcuttas  ;  they 
are  the  European,  or  the  City  of  Palaces,  and  the 
native.  My  visit  to  the  two  above  establishments 
took  me  notably  through  the  midst  of  the  latter. 
Nothing  could  be  more  picturesque,  nor  less  palatial 
— nor  less  tempting  for  a  dwelling.  The  contrast  is 
extreme,  and  the  impression  lasting.  Particularly 
note  the  moving,  loose-robed  crowds,  among  whom' 


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32  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

appear  border  men,  called  Pavendahs  :  also  the  small 
white  oxen,  labouring  under  their  yoke,  with  the 
driver  riding  ;  yet  the  eye  is  tranquil. 

In  making  one  more  call  at  the  Bengal  Club  I  was 
fortunate  in  finding  Sir  Guilford  Molesworth,  though 
only  on  the  eve  of  his  and  Lady  Molcsworth's  final 
departure  for  England.  But  I  mention  the  call 
because,  in  course  of  our  conversation,  he  sti'ongly 
urged  me  not  to  leave  India  without  seeing  the  great 
Temple  of  Ramisseram  ;  and  this  I  bore  in  mind  and 
in  course  of  time  accomplished,  but  under  singular 
circumstances,  which  will  appear  in  their  turn.  The 
temple  is  on  the  Isle  of  Paumben,  the  largest  of  those 
forming  the  line  of  Adam's  Bridge,  as  already  men- 
tioned, and  is  most  difficult  to  attain.  But  I  had 
with  me  a  most  valuable  volume,  the  third  of  "  Fer- 
gusson's  Indian  and  Eastern  Architecture/'  which 
had  been  recommended  to  me  by  Mr.  Harwood,  of 
Messrs.  Bickers  and  Son,  in  Leicester  Square.  I 
know  not  what  I  should  have  done  throughout  India 
without  this  book.  It  was  a  never-failing  companion 
and  instructor,  and  when  I  looked  out  Ramisseram 
and  read  Fergusson*s  account  of  it,  and  saw  his  illus- 
trations, it  became  with  me  a  treasured  resolution  to 
follow,  if  at  all  possible,  Sir  Guilford  Molesworth's 
advice. 


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At  length,  by  the  7.25  train  from  Sealda  Station 
on  the  morning  of  Thursday,  the  20th  of  December 
(Madras  time,  which  rules  on  Indian  railways,  as 
being  the  most  central  time),  I  left  Calcutta  to  join 
the  Putiala  for  Rangoon  in  Burma,  which  we  call 
"  Farther  India,"  though  there  is  no  real  India,  after 
all.  The  line  runs  down  to  Diamond  Point,  or 
Harbour,  about  fifty  miles  distant.  The  scenery 
is  flat,  but  the  tropical  trees  and  the  various  groups 
of  robed  and  turbaned  natives  sprinkled  among 
them  gave  early  morning  a  very  lively  look  to  my 
own  not  yet  surfeited  eye.  We  boarded  the  launch 
and  then  boarded  the  steamer,  and  sailed  forth 
upon  a  mirrored  sea.  Our  next  day,  Friday,  the 
2 1st,  was,  as  usual  in  the  calendar,  the  shortest 
day,  but  strangely  unlike  our  own.  In  this  re- 
spect, though  scarcely  in  any  other,  England  fails 
to  invade  Asia  out  here.  Our  passage  was  a 
pleasant  one  both  as  to  weather  and  companions^ 
and  among  these  I  found  an  American  Baptist  mis- 
sionary. Dr.  Bunker,  abroad.  He  is  of  twenty-two 
years'  standing,  and  lives  at  Tongou,  where  his  labours 
are  chiefly  among  the  Karens.  These  people,  he 
informed  me,  are  an  indigenous  mountain  tribe, 
driven  inland  by  the  Burmese ;  but  he  finds  them 
far  more  manly  and  straightforward  than  the  latter* 

D 


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34  WANDERmCS  AJ^D    WONDERINGS, 

They  fought  for  England  in  the  late  war.  He  also 
.gave  me  an  account  of  a  fearful  Burmese  snake, 
called  the  hemadryad  ;  this  reptile  is  six,  twelve, 
or  fifteen  feet  in  length,  and,  unlike  other  snakes, 
will  seek  to  attack,  unprovoked.  It  is  deadly 
poisonous,  savage  and  aggressive,  and  pursues  by 
leaps.  By  this  description  it  would  seem  to  outvie 
the  Black  Amba,  of  which  I  learned  such  fearful  fame 
in  Natal  ;  and  strong  indeed  must  be  Dr.  Bunker's 
nerves  and  true  his  aim  :  for  he  told  me  that,  being 
pursued  by  a  large  specimen  of  this  tribe,  he  turned 
and  shot  it  with  a  rifle.  He  might  have  been  of  some 
service  in  the  Garden  of  Eden,  surely.  The  snake 
appears  to  be  well  known  in  the  country,  and  feared 
as  much  as  known.  Dr.  Bunker  is  a  very  earnest 
missionary,  and  by  all  accounts  has  obtained  great 
influence  over  the  flocks  he  superintends  and  visits. 
He  is  an  American  Baptist,  ^ager  to  defend  his 
views  ;  and,  though  a  Baptist,  considers  that  he  agrees 
with  the  Churches  in  essentials.  This  is  one  of  the 
points  that  greatly  puzzle  those  who  are  preached  to 
by  entirely  different,  yet  "  Christian,"  missionaries. 

On  Saturday  we  sighted  the  Aguda  Lighthouse ; 
and  on  Sunday,  the  23rd,  after  rounding  the  point 
which  is  veined  with  the  very  usual  numerous  mouths 
that  characterize  a  huge  river,  the  Irrawaddy  (to 
which  some  add  the  name  of  the  Bassein),  we  arrived 
at  flat  Rangoon,  where  I  went  to  a  curious-looking 
building,  called  "The  British  Burma  Hotel;"  and 
the  establishment  was  as  curious  as  the  building. 
But  independently  of  European  intrusion,  Rangoon 
would  not  have  required  an  hotel  at  all.     As  time 


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BURMA.  35 

goes  on  our"  civilization  "  will  no  doubt  gradually  im- 
prove the  new  necessities  that  it  has  created.  The 
first  feature  of  the  town  that  presented  itself  to  me 
was  its  broad,  straight  streets,  lined  with  trees ;  and 
these  breadths  were  plentifully  adorned  with  many 
figures  in  variously-coloured  costumes.  What  I  soon 
noticed  was  that  the  Burmese  are  very  fond  of 
colour.  Palm  trees,  tamarind  trees,  and  mango 
trees  mingled  their  various  foliages.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  describe  the  city  farther,  because  there  is 
nothing  to  describe. 

Even  more  difficult  it  would  be,  but  in  quite 
another  sense,  to  describe  another  feature,  because  it 
is  quite  indescribable :  I  mean  the  great  Rangoon 
Pagoda,  the  most  astonishing  in  the  world,  and 
called  the  Shoay  Dagon,  or  Shoedagong,  Pagoda. 
Before  making  my  first  visit  to  this  w^onder,  however, 
I  was  tempted  to  walk  round  a  lesser  Pagoda,  which 
was  covered  to  the  top  by  a  most  strangely  inter- 
laced scaffolding  of  bamboo,  and  this  most  strange 
construction  I  was  positively  informed  had  been  reared 
in  the  incredibly  short  space  of  one  day.  There 
were  several  worshippers  kneeling  and  prostrating 
themselves  in  prayer,  and  this  before  figures  of 
Buddha ;  just  as  Christians  worship  before  the 
crucifix  or  the  figure  of  the  Virgin.  Indeed,  it  is 
difficult  to  understand  how  any  believers  who  have 
pinned  their  faith  to  any  once  visible  human  being 
or  beings  can  possibly  abstain  from  visible  and 
memorial  representations  of  them,  preservation  of 
their  relics,  and  a  craving  for  their  image  in  physical 
aid  of  their  spiritual  devotions. 

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36  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

General  Spurgin  had  fortunately  given  me  a  letter 
of  introduction  to  Colonel  W.  Cooke,  then  Assistant 
Commissary-General,  whose  residence  was  some 
short  distance  out  of  the  town  ;  and  as  my  road 
thither  lay  by  the  great  Pagoda,  I  naturally  stopped 
for  a  first  survey  of  it  as  I  passed  by.  The  whole 
mass  of  structure  is  most  elaborate  and  confusing. 
In  the  first  place,  the  Pagoda  itself  is  claimed  as 
having  a  height  of  321  feet,  and  it  springs  from  a 
vast  square  marble  platform,  which  is  itself  ap- 
proached by  four  sets  of  staircases,  a  set  on  each 
side;  so  that  you  mount  considerably  before  ar- 
riving at  the  platform.  When  you  get  there  you 
find  this  vast  gilded  Pagoda  is  surrounded  by  a 
number  of  smaller  pagodas  (said  to  be  sixty-eight 
in  all),  something  of  the  shape  of  their  chief. 
Three  only  of  these  many,  with  the  addition  of 
a  grotesque  huge  human  face  and  figure,  appear  in 
Fergusson's  engraving.  Almost  countless  figures, 
large  and  small,  surround  the  platform,  among 
which  is  a  huge  recumbent  one  of  Gautama,  and 
at  one  end  of  this  peopled  platform  is  a  monster 
bell,  measuring  eight  feet  diameter  at  the  mouth, 
this  being  a  great  feature  in  Buddhism.  The 
crowds  of  variegated  worshippers  in  all  corners  were 
remarkable,  and  the  permitted  barking  of  dogs,  who 
hate  Europeans,  and  the  loud  cheerful  conversations 
of  human  beings  that  surround  the  worshippers  of 
the  moment,  make  one  wonder  how  devotion  can  be 
sustained.  The  outline  of  the  great  central  Pagoda 
itself  resembles  that  of  a  vast  hand-bell,  with  a  gilded 
framework,    called    a    Hthee,    at    the     top.      The 


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BURMA,  37 

whole  scene  was  enlivened  by  the  moving  crowds 
of  cpstumed  pilgrims,  and  one  point  of  view 
especially  attracted  me:  it  was  to  stand  at  the 
top  of  the  most  frequented  of  the  deep  flights  of 
steps,  and  watch  the  variegated  groups  passing 
up  and  down,  and  buying  at  the  various  votive 
stalls.  This  was  my  first  visit,  and  in  repeated 
returns  the  general  effect  increased  ;  and  all  this 
mass  of  structure,  with  living  and  moving  beings 
round  it,  like  bees  gathering  honey,  has  grown 
into  this  vast  reality  in  order  to  cover  either  some 
hairs  or  a  tooth  of  Gautama,  or  Buddha,  "The 
Enlightened."  Verily,  verily,  how  much  alike  all 
faiths  are  in  many  features !  We  are  all  idolaters  ; 
either  of  our  own  gods  and  our  own  saints,  or — of  one 
another. 

It  was  now  time  to  think  of  my  letter  of  intro- 
duction and  Colonel  Clarke ;  but  well  known  as  he 
was,  great  was  my  difficulty  in  finding  him.  At  last 
this  discovery  was  accomplished,  and  he  came  in 
view,  hard  at  work.  On  presenting  my  letter  he 
surprised  me  by  recognizing  the  name,  and  it  turned 
out  as  an  additional  introduction  that  he  and  my 
nephew,  Colonel  Aubertin,  had  been  at  Cheltenham 
together.  We  were,  therefore,  friends  at  once,  and 
he  showed  his  friendship  by  unhesitatingly  order- 
ing me  off;  namely,  ordering  me  to  be  off  at  once 
to  Mandalay  that  same  night,  if  I  was  really  going 
there,  or  I  should  lose  a  week  by  calculation  of  the 
boats.  I  was,  of  course,  wise  enough  to  bow  to 
this  instant  dismissal  with  thanks,  the  more  so 
as   I    was  pledged  on    my   return    to   spend   a  few 


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38  WANDERINGS.  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

days  with  him  in  his  tree-shaded  dwelling  before 
leaving  again  for  Calcutta.  Then  came  what  was  a 
real  gift :  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Colonel  Strover, 
the  Commissioner  at  Mandalay.  This  new  arrange- 
ment admitted  of  no  delay,  for  I  was  to  take  the 
railway  that  night  at  9.30  for  some  190  miles  to 
Prome,  on  the  river ;  and  here  we  were  to  join  the 
steamer  Mandalay  for  Mandalay. 

At  the  hotel  I  found  one  of  my  fellow  pas- 
sengers from  Calcutta,  General  Johnston,  bound 
on  the  same  voyage  of  discovery  as  myself;  and 
we  both  started  together,  with  our  two  servants ; 
his  being  a  Madrassee,  of  middle  age,  and  by  no 
means  a  pleasant  individual.  Our  tickets  being 
taken,  we  entered  our  car,  as  usual,  but  immediately 
received  a  kindly  warning  from  an  official :  "  Gen- 
tlemen, I  must  caution  you  to  keep  your  door 
safely  locked  at  night,  for  otherwise  you  are  in 
danger  of  losing  all  your  coats  and  luggage."  A 
timely  warning  indeed,  as  we  afterwards  learned 
from  many  mouths  of  sufferers.  One  passenger  on 
our  return  told  me  of  several  cases  of  this  sort  of 
robbery,  including  his  own  :  "  For,"  said  he,  **  I  lost 
every  single  thing  I  had  with  me  while  I  was  asleep." 
Nay,  more,  it  was  a  well-authenticated  fact  that  the 
Chief  of  Police,  though  attended  by  an  escort,  had 
on  one  occasion  himself  been  the  sufferer.  It  is  easy 
to  attribute  these  robberies  to  the  Burmese ;  but 
those  generally  accredited  with  the  trick  are  certain 
Madrassees,  who  come  over  to  the  country.  The 
trick  is  to  get  upon  the  train,  sometimes  even  under 
the  train,  and  watch  the  opportunity  of  noting  pos- 


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BURMA,  39 

sible  prey  at  any  given  station.  Then,  when  the 
train  is  again  in  motion,  they  enter,  throw  every- 
thing helter-skelter  out,  hide  themselves,  and  "  dis* 
embark "  at  the  next  station,  deliberately  walking 
back  and  gradually  picking  up  their  spoil.  It  is  not 
of  the  Burmese  to  do  this. 

For  ourselves,  we  were  on  our  guard,  and  arrived 
at  Prome  unrobbed,  traversing  our  i6i  miles  un- 
interruptedly. 

At  about  half-past  six  on  the  morning  of  Monday, 
the  24th  December,  we  embarked  on  board  the 
Mandalay,  of  the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company, 
whereof  Captain  Franz  K.  Timm  was  the  sociable 
and  able  captain,  and  found  ourselves  on  the  fu), 
broad  waterway  of  the  Irrawaddy  itself,  for  our  410 
miles  to  Mandalay.  This  river  course  I  shall  detail, 
because  I  had  been  so  much  misled  about  it.  We 
anchored  at  Mihnla  for  the  night,  and  some  of  us 
walked  up  to  the  fort,  where  there  had  been  fighting 
in  the  days  of  invasion  ;  and  when  we  had  walked 
up  we  walked  down  again,  not  much  wiser  but  very 
much  more  dusty  than  before.  But  it  was  "  some- 
thing to  do  ! "  and  what  a  chance  that  is,  very  often — 
•'  to  have  something  to  do."  We  had  passed  Kama, 
with  its  pagodas,  and  had  stared  at  them  as  we 
passed.  The  river  throughout  the  day  had  shown 
itself  vast  in  waters;  and  so  many  would  say,  "  this 
splendid  river  ;"  but  the  banks  were  flat  and  quite 
monotonous.  On  one  spot,  however,  by  way  of  trade, 
an  enormous  mass  of  sawdust,  more  curious  than 
beautiful,  attracted  my  attention  ;  this  turned  out 
to  be  some  years!  accumulation  from  the  making  of 


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40  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

boxes  for  the  dye  called  "Cutch/*  But  the  most 
curious  and  interesting  object  to  me  was  on  board, 
where  a  mother  in  the  second  class  was  waiting  on  her 
daughter  travelling  in  the  first.  My  attention  was 
pointedly  called  to  this  fact,  and  the  name  of  the 
young  lady  was  then  given  me  as  a  Miss  Dumont 
The  explanation  was  startling  enough.  She  her- 
self was  half-caste,  having  certain  white  blood  in 
her  veins,  while  her  mother  had  none,  being 
wholly  Burmese.  Therefore  the  daughter  of  mixed 
blood  was  waited  on  by  the  mother  of  pure. 
This  strange  circumstance  somewhat  serves  to 
exemplify  social  relationship  throughout  Burma, 
and  I  soon  came  to  know  that  in  every  case 
servants  go  down  on  their  knees  before  their 
masters  on  receiving  orders  or  delivering  messages 
or  food.  This  is  so,  as  between  themselves,  and  I 
presently  observed  this  custom  going  on  haughtily 
on  board  on  the  part  of  a  master  of  the  most  ordi- 
nary type.  I  was  told  that  Burmese  servants  are 
especially  attached  to  European  masters,  and  an 
instance  of  this  was  given  me  later  by  a  young 
officer  who  was  deploring  having  to  leave  his  devoted 
servant  behind. 

Next  day  was  Christmas  Day,  and  throughout,  the 
river  was  again  vast — and  this,  though  the  water  is 
always  low  at  this  time  of  year — but  the  banks  were 
again  monotonous.  We  passed  the  great  Oil  Station, 
Yeanang  Young,  with  one  solitary  handsome  group 
of  trees  ;  and  here  we  witnessed  a  very  picturesque 
landing  and  scattering  abroad  on  the  slopes  of  our 
costumed  native  passengers.     The  sunset  colourings 


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BURMA.  41 

were  gorgeous,  as  we  anchored  an  hour  short  of  the 
famous  Paghan.  And  thus  ended  our  Christmas  Day- 
passage.  The  day  itself  wpund  up  with  the  usual 
fare,  which  need  not  be  described,  except  as  to  one 
item  :  the  neglected,  insipid  Papua.  This  fruit  was 
despised,  till  there  came  a  passenger  on  board  from 
one  of  the  stations,  who,  helping  himself  to  a  good 
slice,  casually  remarked  it  was  good  for  the  liver. 
On  this,  the  two  large  melon-shaped  fruits  disap- 
peared forthwith,  and  the  following  day  saw  the 
last  of  the  fruit  devoured. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th  we  rose  early  to  have 
a  good  look  from  the  river  on  famous  Paghan : 
famous,  that  is,  for  its  pagodas.  They  are  so 
numerous,  that  there  is  a  defiant  proverb  as  to 
counting  them  :  "  Count  the  pagodas  of  Paghan.''  A 
passenger  on  board  was  enthusiastic  as  to  an  endless 
walk  among  them  ;  and  possibly  the  novelty  of  such 
a  meander  may  be  exciting  ;  but  it  was  quite  evident 
to  us  all  that  the  mass  of  them  were  dwarf  ruins ; 
some  few  were  more  or  less  entire,  but  there  were  no 
evidences  of  fine  structures.  Pagodas,  I  may  say, 
are  to  be  seen  everywhere  up  to  Mandalay,  and  they 
are  for  the  most  part  ugly.  The  day  was  again 
somewhat  diversified  by  the  embarking,  and  landing, 
and  scattering  of  the  natives,  and  in  one  case  I  was 
suddenly  reminded  of  a  water-colour  by  Turner. 

On  the  27th  we  passed  what  I  called  the  eye  of  the 
river,  viz.  Sagain,  one  of  the  ancient  capitals,  with 
its  various  hills  and  pagodas  ;  and  opposite  to  this, 
on  the  east  or  left  bank  of  the  river,  stood  Ava,  also 
a  former  capital,  and  which  now  gives  one  of  his 


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42  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

titles  to  the  Marquis  of  Dufferin  and  Ava.  A  little 
higher  up  we  come  abreast  of  Amarapura,  which  also 
was  formerly  the  seat  of  Government ;  and  another 
eight  miles,  completing  our  410  miles  in  three  days 
and  a  half  from  Prome,  brought  us  at  about  noon  to 
the  dusty,  steep,  and  ragged  left  bank,  forming  an 
unworthy  landing-place  for  the  present  capital, 
Mandalay. 

Now,  on  arriving  at  such  a  spot,  and  asking  for 
the  Commissioner,  one  would  naturally  suppose  it  to 
be  an  easy  task  to  find  him.  Quite  the  contrary.  If 
I  had  trouble  in  finding  Colonel  Clarke  at  Rangoon, 
it  cost  me  many  times  as  much  to  find  Colonel 
S trover  at  Mandalay.  Forth  I  started,  with  my  man 
on  the  box,  in  a  rattle-trap  gare  (reminding  me  of 
Calcutta),  in  full  assurance  that  it  was  "  all  right ;  ^' 
and  after  a  long  and  tedious  drive  we  came  to  the 
city  walls,  castellated,  and  with  pagoda  ornaments  at 
intervals.  We  crossed  the  moat  and  entered ;  but,  to 
my  astonishment,  I  found  no  city  at  all !  This  re- 
markable fact  was  afterwards  explained  to  me.  Still 
we  kept  driving  on  to  a  large  residence,  which  had 
been  pointed  out  to  me  after  interpreted  inquiry. 
This  was  wrong :  it  was  the  residence  of  the  Chief 
Commissioner,  Sir  Charles  Crosthwaite,  when  there. 
Off  again;  and  outside  the  walls  on  the  opposite  side. 
In  this  line  I  passed  close  to  the  late  king's  palace, 
with  its  pagoda,  and  afterwards  came  to  some  fine- 
looking  barracks.  When  far  outside  we  at  last  stopped 
at  another  house.  This,  I  was  told,  must  be  the  right 
one ;  so  in  I  walked  and  proffered  my  letter.  *'  From 
my  brother/'  quoth  the  courteous  gentleman..    This. 


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BURMA.  43 

took  me  aback,  for  I  was  evidently  wrong  again. 
"  Oh ! "  he  quickly  added,  "  I  see  this  is  to  the 
Commissioner,  about  two  miles  ofif."  I  then  recounted 
my  despair,  and  begged  him  "  to  guide  my  weary 
way."  Very  kindly  he  sent  a  man  with  me,  and  in 
about  half  an  hour  we  arrived  at  the  very  residence 
of  Colonel  Strover.  Here  at  last  I  found  a  haven, 
having  travelled  six  miles  instead  of  one,  and  was 
most  pleasantly  received  and  housed.  Perhaps  if 
you  go  there  now,  knowledge  will  have  improved  ; 
but  I  do  not  forget  what  was. 

The  Commissioner  was  engaged  that  afternoon  at 
the  races  as  one  of  the  judges — there  are  races  every- 
where and  everywhen — and  I  spent  my  time  among 
various  pagodas,  including  the  '*  Incomparable," 
"The  Golden  House,"  and  the  "countless  pagodas." 
Here  I  wandered  through  a  downright  forest  of  them, 
and  mounted  a  central  structure  to  survey,  from  a 
bird's-eye  view,  the  astonishing  surroundings. 

Early  on  the  next  morning,  the  28th  December, 
the  Colonel  drove  me  to  see  the  Aracan  Pagoda, 
where  sits  the  great  figure  of  Buddha,  brought  from 
Aracan.  The  figure  was  golden  or  gilded,  and  was 
flanked  by  two  screens.  I  have  said  the  Burmese 
are  great  colourists,  and  these  two  screens  were 
indeed  specimens  of  that  art.  Worshippers  abounded, 
and  so  did  their  offerings  of  rice  ;  but  these,  as  they 
lay  scattered  for  worship's  sake,  were  licked  up  by 
the  prowling  dogs,  who,  as  usual,  now  and  then 
resented  European  costume.  This  pagoda  is  worth 
visiting  indeed. 

For  the  afternoon,  Colonel  Strover  gave  me  a  letter 


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44  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

to  Captain  Temple,  at  the  Palace,  also  with  its  lofty 
pagoda,  and  which  I  had  passed  within  the  walls.  He 
showed  me  the  whole  building,  and  strange  indeed 
seemed  the  incongruity  of  a  palace  turned  into 
Government  offices.  And  now  it  was  that  Captain 
Temple  explained  to  me  the  no-city  phenomenon 
within  the  walls.  The  whole  mass  of  inhabitants  had 
been  turned  out,  and  made  to  carry  their  wooden 
structures  with  them.  The  Captain  spoke  of  from 
fifty  to  sixty  thousand  inhabitants  so  dealt  with,  and 
thirty  thousand  more  outside  the  walls  ;  and  all 
this  had  taken  place  without  a  single  hitch ;  many 
bargaining  with  their  neighbours  for  changing  houses 
on  agreed  terms.  Then  came  a  highly  interesting 
visit.  This  was  to  King  Thebaw's  Summer  House, 
when  I  stood  on  the  spot  where  he  had  signed  his 
abdication,  praying  (as  I  was  told)  for  so  many 
weeks*  or  months'  delay  in  his  departure,  and  being 
answered  by  General  Prendergast,  "Not  so  many 
hours.'*  There  was  yet  one  more  mournful  remnant 
of  past  power  to  be  seen  :  the  king's  throne-room. 
Here,  himself  squatting  in  Eastern  fashion,  they  who 
came  before  him  approached  in  squatting  movements 
to  his  feet,  and  spoke  their  prayer.  But  alas  1  the 
god  is  gone,  like  so  many  others. 

On  Saturday  morning,  the  29th  December,  I  was 
to  be  on  board  again  in  time,  to  sail  at  eleven,  and 
the  Colonel  took  me  for  an  early  previous  drive  to 
see  other  golden  and  glittering  temples ;  the 
Queen's  Golden  Kyoung  among  the  number,  and 
the  great  solid  gilded  pagoda.  These  temples  may 
be  called  tawdry  and  trifling,  and  probably  would 


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BURMA.  45 

look  so  in  our  latitudes  ;  but  they  have  their  special 
beauty  in  their  native  soil,  standing  out  against  their 
blue  skies.  The  elaboration  of  their  detail  is  astonish- 
ing. At  length  we  came  to  the  steamer,  and  I 
hailed  our  returning  passengers,  and  so  ended  my 
visit  to  Mandalay,  and  to  the  pleasant  entertainments 
of  my  generous  host. 

In  our  various  drives  I  particularly  noticed  the  Bud- 
dhist priests,  young  and  old,  dressed  in  yellow  robes, 
and  how  they  begged  from  house  to  house  for  their 
daily  sustenance.  Each  has  his  district,  and  there  is  no 
invasion.  Each  carries  a  large  bowl,  the  "  Alms  Bowl," 
and  presents  himself  at  the  open  entrance ;  open  to 
the  street.  They  never  ask  for  anything,  but  simply 
stand  and  wait  for  perhaps  two  or  three  minutes. 
If  no  one  comes  to  add  to  the  contents  they  go 
away.  Another  feature  to  observe  is  the  enormous 
quantity  of  tattooing  of  the  almost  naked  legs  and 
bodies.  Even  little  children  show  it ;  and  it  is  won- 
derful to  think  how  the  agony  can  be  endured  except 
upon  the  theory,  applied  to  the  Chinese,  that  the 
Burmese  are  very  insensible  to  pain.  This  view 
indeed  was  confirmed  to  me  on  board  by  a  Mr.  S. 
C.  Robertson,  Assistant  Superintendent  of  Tele- 
graphs, who  also  spoke  of  their  severities  one  towards 
another.  While  speaking  of  children,  by  the  way,  I 
noticed  the  large  bracelets  they  carried,  both  here 
and  in  India,  on  their  wrists  and  ankles ;  and  was 
offensively  confirmed  in  my  suspicion  that  cases  too 
often  occur  in  both  countries  of  murder  and  mutila- 
tion to  obtain  them.  The  oxen  are  driven  as  in 
Calcutta,  with  the  yoke  on  the  neck  and   the  string 


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46  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDnRlNGS. 

through  the  nose,  in  apparent  suffering,  but  the 
tranquil  eye,  here  as  there,  disputes  this  impression. 
In  size  and  form  the  Burmese  animals  are  superior 
to  those  in  Calcutta. 

So  down  the  wide,  flat-shored  river  we  went  again, 
I  being  much  struck  by  a  single  group  of  hills  we 
had  passed  in  the  dark  before ;  and  we  arrived  at 
Prome  at  5  p.m.  on  the  31st.  General  Johnston 
and  I  had  at  one  time  intended  going  farther  up  the 
river  to  Bhamo,  but  were  threatened  by  the  ground- 
ing of  the  steamer  at  this  time  of  year,  which  verily 
came  to  pass.  But  there  were  only  a  few  miles  of 
picturesque  shore  to  be  seen,  after  all ;  and  they  who 
have  travelled  in  flat  countries  know  how  molehills 
there  are  magnified  into  mountains.  Major  Clarke 
informed  me  that  very  much  higher  up  stream,  where 
he  had  gone  with  his  forces,  but  where  we  could  not 
then  go,  the  scenery  among  the  rocks  was  very  fine. 

It  will  be  gathered  from  what  I  have  written  that 
the  general  aspect  of  the  Irrawaddy,  as  a  river,  is 
tame  ;  but  I  have  no  doubt  that  when  the  water  is 
high  you  may  be  raised  to  get  a  fine  extensive 
view  of  the  country  to  the  east,  which  would,  of 
course,  enliven  the  otherwise  somewhat  monotonous 
voyage ;  for  Burmese  views  are  by  no  means  flat ; 
what  is  flat  are  the  general  banks  of  the  river. 

On  Tuesday,  then,  the  ist  of  January,  1889,  at 
about  six  in  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Rangoon 
again,  where  I  was  met  by  a  letter  from  Colonel 
Cooke,  summoning  me  to  his  house.  On  this  day 
all  were  enjoying  a  close  holiday,  and  to  me  this 
summons  was  my  holiday.    In  the  evening  the  Colonel 


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BURMA,  47 

took  me  a  delightftil  drive  around  "The  lioyal 
Lakes"  and  through  the  "Ladies'  Mile,"  disjplaying 
views  of  the  great  pagoda.  Then  to  the  lively  club. 
In  the  evening  after  dinner  we  lounged  on  the 
wide  upper  balcony  under  the  trees,  legs  up,  on 
those  peculiar  Indian  chairs,  to  which  I  was  always 
invited,  but  to  which,  in  spite  of  prophecy,  I  could 
never  get  accustomed.  A  further  drive  out  the  next 
day  displayed  much  large  timber,  especially  the 
large-leafed  teak  tree ;  and,  to  my  astonishment, 
an  unlimited  growth  of  pineapples  under  large 
plantations.  It  appears  to  be  a  common  practice  in 
the  season,  in  morning  drives,  to  get  out  and  help 
oneself  ad  libitum  ;  and  the  produce  must  indeed  be 
inexhaustible.  My  last  day,  and  my  last  long  visit 
to  the  Shoay  Dagon,  was  on  Friday,  the  4th  of 
January.  Major  Cooke  had  joined  us  from  Mandalay 
in  the  morning,  and  as  my  boat  was  to  sail  at  2.30 
a.m.  I  bade  my  pleasant  host  and  his  brother  farewell, 
and  went  on  board  in  the  evening,  and  on  Tuesday,, 
the  8th,  I  was  in  Calcutta  again. 


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VL 


Having  now  returned  to  Calcutta,  I  was  to  prepare 
for  my  own  intended  "Voyage  of  Discovery'* 
through  India,  and  to  the  ever-vaunted  vale  of 
Kashmir ;  nor  was  I  unwilling  to  be  prompt  in 
making  arrangements  for  my  departure,  for  I  found 
the  weather  some  ten  degrees  warmer  than  usual  for 
the  month  of  January,  and,  as  I  must  confess,  very 
depressing.  Having  availed  myself,  therefore,  of  the 
hospitality  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hyde  in  their  very 
pleasant  villa,  and  also  of  Mr.  Gordon's,  at  the 
Bengal  Club,  who  likewise  had  been  a  schoolfellow 
of  my  nephew — such  is  the  world's  easy  intercourse 
at  present — I  made  my  way  to  Messrs.  Thomas 
Cook  and  Son's  office,  No.  ii.  Old  Court  House 
Street,  in  order  to  arrange  the  usual  railway  through 
tickets,  with  which  I  had  already  travelled  some 
thousands  of  miles  in  other  countries,  and  found 
infinitely  convenient  passports  in  joining  trains,  with- 
out  standing  and  crushing  at  the  wicket  for  a  ticket. 
My  first  long  journey  was  eventually  to  cease  at 
Bombay ;  and,  counted  by  the  way  I  intended  to  go, 
I  had  to  measure  a  distance  of  1689  miles,  the 
coupons,  as  usual,  giving  the  liberty  of  stopping  at 
the  various  places  which  I  desired  to  visit,  and  my 
heavy  baggage  being  sent  on  direct,  independently. 
Therefore   at  9  p.m.   on  the  evening  of  Tuesday, 


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BENARES.  49 

the  15th  of  January,  by  Madras  time,  I  left  the 
Howrah  station,  E.I.R.,  in  a  good-sized  car  or  car- 
riage, where  luckily  I  found  only  one  other  passenger, 
an  officer  ;  and  in  India  officers  are  always  pleasant. 
The  first  object  of  my  journey  was  the  City  of 
Benares,  which  I  spell  in  the  usual  way,  and  will 
here  remark  that,  as  regards  the  spelling  of  various 
cities  and  places,  I  shall  take  my  chance  among  all  the 
promiscuous  and  contradictory  authorities,  spelling 
in  any  manner  that  at  the  moment  happens  to  be  in 
print  before  me,  and  I  daresay  spelling  the  same  place 
differently  and  wrongly  every  time  I  write  it.  The 
first  470  miles  took  me  to  Moghal  Sarai  Junction  at 
14.45,  or  2.45  p.m.  on  the  i6th,  and,  starting  thence 
^^  3«3S  pni->  another  ten  miles  on  the  Oudh  and 
Rohilkund  railway  brought  me,  at  4.25  p.m.,  to  the 
**  Sacred  City  of  Siva  or  Shiva,*'  where  I  rested  at 
Clarke's  Hotel ;  a  habitation  which  was  quite  un- 
known to  this  God  of  Destruction,  the  Third  in  the 
Brahmin  Trinity,  though  by  some  reputed  as  the 
First,  or  as  comprehending  all  Three.  It  was  at  this 
first  halting  place  that  I  realized  the  necessity  of 
generally  carrying  with  you  through  all  India  your 
whole  bedding  apparatus,  even  when  visiting  most  of 
the  hotels.  Where  there  are  none,  and  only  dik 
bungalows,  this  necessity  is  a  necessity  indeed.  These 
Government  post-houses  are  not  expected  to  have 
any  furniture  whatever  besides  a  table  and  a  few 
chain  and  sofas  ;  all  is  very  scantily  provided.  One's 
arrival  there  is  generally  followed  by  a  loud  cawing 
and  cackling  among  the  fowls,  and  I  have  described 
the  reception    in    general    to  consist    merely   of  a 

E 


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50  ]VANDER/NGS  AND    WONDEKINGS, 

shrivelled  old  man  and  an  impossible  chicken. 
However,  for  India,  the  hotel,  in  this  instance, 
afforded  me  very  fair  food,  and  bedstead  ,  enough 
to  put  my  own  things  upon.  Thus  dinner  and  the 
night  were  accomplished. 

Before  seven  on  the  following  morning,  the  17th 
January,  my  guide  and  I  were  moving  to  see  Benares, 
the  first  aspect  of  which  it  seems  to  me  should 
be  sought  from  across  the  Ganges.  The  early  hori- 
zontal rays  of  morning,  striking  the  broad  bosom  of 
the  stream,  light  up  the  wonderfully  picturesque  city, 
rising  above  the  sloping  banks  on  the  opposite  side, 
with  its  numerous  broken  ghats  or  high  landing-steps, 
in  an  almost  magical  manner.  The  whole  city  lies 
upon  the  left  bank  or  north  side  of  the  river,  and  the 
view  is  unintercepted.  Then  return  and  take  one  of 
the  strangely  made  boats,  or  barges,  and  move  quietly 
up  and  down  stream  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
sitting  on  the  outside  top ;  and  thus  you  will  view 
all  that  goes  on,  on  shore  ;  bathing  among  the  living, 
and  burning  among  the  dead.  Sometimes  these 
latter  are  cast  into  the  Ganges,  a  style  of  disposal 
more  popular  with  the  obscene  crocodile,  and  sup- 
posed to  yield  advantage  to  the  soul. 

The  next  movement  was  to  visit  the  narrow  and 
in  many  ways  offensive  streets  and  passages  of 
the  confined  and  unwashed  city,  and  here  the  tra- 
veller's senses  become  bewildered  with  the  crowded 
varieties  that  press  round  him.  Among  other 
objects  must  be  mentioned  a  great  Brahmin  Bull, 
and  among  the  Hindoo  buildings  the  remarkable 
Golden  Temple,  dedicated  to  the   God   Siva.     The 


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BRNARES,  51 

symbol  of  Creation  or  Renovation  under  which  this 
god  of  Destruction  is  worshipped  appears  every- 
where, as  if  to  point  the  view  that — 

**  In  the  boundless  realm  of  unending  change  " 

(as  Shelley  beautifully  writes)  there  is  really  no  such 
thing  as  death.     Byron  wrote  a  sentimental  line — 

**  Ah  !  surely  nothing  dies  but  something  mourns." 

In  the  above  view  this  might  be  paraphrased  — 
"  Ah  !  surely  nothing  dies  but  something  lives/* 

Hence,  Siva  the  Destroyer  is  symbolized  as  Siva 
the  Creator  or  Renovator,  because  in  the  "unending 
change  ^'  the  dispersion  of  one  contributes  to  the 
formation  of  the  other.  But  you  may  remark  for 
ever,  and  yet  not  paint  Benares. 

After  becoming  intoxicated  with  variety,  if  not 
yet  overcome  with  fatigue,  the  last  visit  must  be 
to  the  towering  mosque  of  Aurungzebe,  an  awful 
intrusion,  and  in  form  a  tyrannical  one,  upon 
the  gloomy  sanctity  of  Siva.  But  rival  religions 
know  nothing  of  consideration  or  forbearance,  and 
always  arrogate  to  themselves  the  truth,  and  this 
particular  mosque  is  stated  to  have  been  the 
especial  fruit  of  arrogance.  When  you  have 
put  on  your  shoes  again,  after  visiting  the 
Mosque,  take  courage,  and  take  breath,  and  mount 
a  minaret.  The  view  will  well  reward  you.  Of 
its  kind  it  must  be  unique :  the  river  and  the  city 
close  below  you,  and  the  country  far  around,  form 
a  scene  to  dwell  on  and  to  remember.  There  is 
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52  WAMDHRiMiS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

something  strange  in  Fergusson's  remark,  that  after 
all  "there  is  hardly  any  great  city  in  Hindustan 
that  can  show  so  few  evidences  of  antiquity  as 
Benares/*  and  that  the  Temple  of  Vishveshwar,  which 
the  Brahmins  universally  point  out  to  you  as  their 
holiest  and  oldest,  "  was  erected  from  the  foundation 
in  the  last  century  to  replace  one  that  had  been 
thrown  down  and  desecrated  by  the  bigot  Aurung- 
zebe.  The  oldest  buildings  indeed  would  appear 
to  be  the  Moslem  tombs  and  buildings,  about  the 
Bukarija  Kund,  and  these  only  of  the  15th  century." 

The  Durg4  Temple  lies  outside,  under  splendid 
trees.  It  is  said  to  be  dedicated  to  the  savage 
Siva's  savage  wife,  under  that  name,  which  is  intended 
to  inspire  that  most  essential  element  of  all  worship, 
terror  ;  in  some,  diluted  to  awe.  The  leading  feature 
here  are  the  monkeys,  which  are  too  much  made 
light  of  perhaps.  Is  not  their  presence  connected 
v/ith  the  worship  of  the  monkey  god  ?  "  Monkey," 
it  is  true,  has  been  made  to  signify  "Devil."  But 
among  all  the  numerous  gods  which  the  human 
brain  has  in  course  of  aeons  invented  we  know  that 
there  appears  "  the  monkey  god.'* 

I  can  quite  understand  that  some  few  specialists 
could  pass  several  days  in  viewing  and  reviewing 
all  the  curiosities  that  the  city  has  to  show.  But 
it  would  be  affectation  on  my  part  to  pretend  that 
I  needed  any  further  acquaintance  with  it  than  my 
one  day's  visit  had  afforded  me,  and  which  I  felt 
sure  would  be  quite  sufficient  for  my  future  memories 
and  uses.  I  therefore  decided  to  leave  on  the  following 
morning,  looking  with  a  careless  eye  on  all  shawls, 


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m^^g^^^^SS^^^SS^^T^-^^^^  ^,  ■  ,     .  '. ^^M 


BENARES.  S3 

while  the  glittering  array  of  brass  works  that  adorned 
a  spacious  saloon  of  the  hotel  were  to  my  taste 
repellent  rather  than  attractive. 

But  before  leaving  Benares,  I  sought  and  found  a 
Brahmin  Bdbu,  Ram  Kdli  Chaudhuri,  to  whom  I  had 
brought  a  letter  of  introduction  from  the  late  Miss 
Constance  Naden.  He  was  a  Brahmin  priest  of  the 
first  class,  and  wore  the  three  threads  over  his 
left  shoulder,  having  been  so  invested  at  nine  years 
old.  To  this  degree,  he  informed  me,  none  can 
rise ;  but  they  must  be  invested  in  early  life.  It 
would  be  neither  possible  nor  entertaining,  if  possible, 
to  recount  all  our  conversation,  in  which  he  spoke 
English  exceedingly  well.  By  my  notes  I  see  that  the 
principal  subject  between  us  was  the  Congress  ques- 
tion, of  which  he  knew  a  great  deal  more  than  I  did. 
But  I  refer  to  the  conversation  because  I  promised 
him  that  if  I  ever  mentioned  his  name,  I  would 
make  this  declaration  for  him,  and  all  his  brethren  : 
**  That  whatever  might  be  the  subject  of  their  dis- 
satisfaction or  complaint,  they  were  really  loyal 
subjects  of  the  Empress,  and  that  nothing  whatever 
could  induce  them  to  commit  any  act  that  might 
have  the  tendency  to  weaken  a  Government  in 
whose  capacity  to  protect  and  support  them 
they  felt  such  perfect  confidence.*'  He  was  highly 
delighted  on  my  presenting  him  with  a  copy  of  my 
Translation  of  the  Lusiads,  and  I  afterwards  received 
a  remarkably  well-written  letter  from  him,  which  bore 
evidence  of  his  having  really  studied  our  language 
with  scholastic  success. 

Leaving    Benares  at  4.25   p.m.  on    the   17th,   I 


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54  WAADENJNGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

arrived  at  Lucknow  at  the  ugly  hour  2.16  a.m.  on 
Friday,  the  i8th,  and  drove  to  Hill's  Imperial  Hotel, 
where  I  was  again  glad  of  my  own  covering.  This 
hotel,  I  may  mention,  like  almost  every  other 
throughout  India,  has  its  bedrooms  built  on  a  long 
ground  floor  row,  with  a  corridor  in  front,  and 
opening  behind  into  a  bath  room,  very  commodiously 
arranged.  After  bed  and  bath  and  breakfast  (as 
usual)  I  prepared  to  visit  the  ever-to-be-remembered 
scenes,  so  dark  and  so  bright  in  history  ;  dark  in 
sufferings  and  carnage,  and  bright  in  almost  un- 
exampled endurance,  valour,  and  victory. 

The  Residency  is,  of  course,  the  one  grand  centre  of 
attraction,  and  before  visiting  its  now  quiet  ruins, 
standing  on  turf  and  adorned  with  thick  flowering 
creepers,  a  great  advantage  is  offered  of  inspecting,  at 
the  museum^  a  perfect  model  of  it,  carefully  prepared 
by  Captain  Moore,  as  it  stood  with  its  surrounding 
houses  before  the  siege.  Then  to  the  scene  itself,  in 
all  its  quietude  and  its  engaging  ruin,  and  do  not  by 
any  means  omit  to  mount  its  crags  and  survey  the 
entire  picture.  The  soldier  might  be  here  inclined 
rather  to  discuss,  but  the  civilian  rather  to  ponder. 
Explain  things  as  the  best  qualified  may  try  to  do, 
the  record  seems  to  baffle  the  understanding.  Re- 
member that  all  this  deadly  strife  and  fearful  suffer- 
ing  took  place  in  summer,  and  note  one  small  fact 
alone — "the  greatest  torment  was  the  flies,  which 
swarmed  in  incredible  numbers.  The  ground  was 
black  with  them,  and  the  tables  covered.  The 
besieged  could  not  sleep  ;  they  could  scarcely  eat  for 
them."    The  Sikandara  Bagh,  which  is  given  as  of 


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LiJCKSOWy  ETC.  55 

1 20  yards  square,  and  is  surrounded  \yy  high  solid 
walls,  is  also  to  be  visited.  Hither  a  large  body  of 
Sipahis  retreated,  expecting  to  escape  at  the  other 
side.  But  there  was  no  opening,  and,  being  hotly 
pursued  by  the  93rd  Highlanders  and  4th  Punjab 
Rifles,  they  were  ail  massacred,  some  say  to  the  num- 
ber of  2000,  and  other  accounts  give  1643  as  the 
number  of  corpses  buried  under  one  huge  mound  out- 
side the  gate. 

Leaving  Lucknow  and  its  great  Imimbdrah,  a  visit 
to  Cawnpore  naturally  followed,  whither  forty-five 
miles  on  the  same  line  of  railway  took  me  by  4.30 
on  the  afternoon  of  the  19th,  and  early  on  the  20th 
I  was  driven  round  by  a  pensioned  English  soldier 
to  all  the  various  spots  of  horror,  including,  of  course, 
the  Park,  the  Well,  and  the  Enclosure,  with  its 
statue.  Perhaps  I  was  more  impressed  with  the 
barren  ghat,  by  the  river  side,  whither  the  bewitched 
General  Wheeler  led  his  unarmed  officers  and  men  to 
be  slaughtered,  for  there  the  ground  remained  as  it 
had  been  at  the  time.  So  also  the  Sevada  House, 
whither  Major  Viper  and  seventy  officers  and  men 
had  fled,  also  unarmed^  simply  to  share  a  similar 
fate.     It  was  much  to  have  trod  these  scenes. 

I  was  now  on  my  way  through  Allahabad  to 
Jubbulpore,  on  the  river  Nerbudda,  to  see  the 
Marble  Rocks,  and  a  run  of  120  miles  between 
1 1. 21  a.m.  and  5  p.m.  brought  me  to  the  above  city, 
where  I  lodged  at  Lawrie*s  hotel.  The  capital  of 
the  North-West  Provinces,  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Jumna,  just  before  that  river  falls  into  the 
Ganges,  is  a  finely  built  city,  with  wide,  straight  and 


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§6  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

well  planted  streets,  stretching  over  a  perfectly  flat 
country,  and  containing  many  imposing  buildings  at 
a  certain  distance  from  one  another,  and  involving 
the  climbing  of  a  great  many  steps  for  making  calls 
on  officials  and  professors.  Its  great  curiosity  is  the 
Asoka  Pillar,  which  ought  to  be  stared  at  with  all  that 
feigned  interest  which  the  concealed  ignorance  and 
indifference  of  the  general  traveller  may  command 
fdr  the  occasion,  and  in  the  fine  museum  there  is  the 
skeleton  of  a  gharidl,  or  long-snouted  alligator.  And 
there  is,  of  course,  a  cemetery,  containing  the  usual 
collection  of  hideous  tombs.  On  toiling  up  several 
steps  with  a  letter  to  Mr.  Hugh  Fraser,  the  registrar, 
from  my  connection.  General  Spurgin,  I  unfortunately 
found  he  was  "  on  tour,'*  as  also  was  another  gentleman 
up  another  forbidding  staircase.  But  on  mounting  to 
the  grand  colonnade  of  the  Muir  College  I  was  for- 
tunate enough  to  disturb  the  Professor  of  Sanscrit  in  his 
occupations,  by  sending  in  a  letter,  also  from  the  late 
Miss  Constance  Naden,  as  at  Benares.  This  was 
Pandit  Adityaram  Bhattacharya,  M.A.,  with  whom, 
however,  I  could  then  have  only  just  as  many 
minutes  in  conversation  as  it  would  have  taken  me 
to  salute  him  properly  by  his  name.  Afterwards, 
however,  he  paid  me  the  favour  of  a  long  call,  main- 
taining a  most  interesting  conversation  in  good  Eng- 
lish, much  on  the  same  lines  as  my  Pandit  friend  at 
Benares.  Had  I  immediately  afterwards  conversed 
with  a  well-informed  Indian  authority  I  could  better 
have  repeated  and  understood  various  features  of  his 
discourse  than  I  can  now,  which  amounts  to  just 
nothing  at  all.  But,  not  forgetting  the  repeated  expres- 


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ALLAHABAD.  57 

sions  of  loyalty,  I  do  remember  that  one  leading  form 
of  protest  and  complaint  was  that  they  had  to  con- 
tribute a  great  deal  of  money  without  having  any 
corresponding  voice,  by  representation,  or  otherwise, 
in  the  conduct  of  public  affairs. 

The  fine  arsenal  and  fort  I  took  for  granted,  but  I 
certainly  have  an  impression  of  being  somewhat 
earnestly  taken  to  jail,  and  let  out  again,  after  con- 
fessing that  it  appeared  to  me,  so  far  as  I  was  a  judge 
of  jails^  to  be  remarkably  clean  and  airy.  My  after- 
noon wound  up  with  a  visit  to  the  imposing  Mayo 
Memorial,  the  tower  of  which  I  mounted,  some  1 50 
feet  high,  with  a  finial  atop,  whence  an  extensive 
spreading  view  of  the  country  round  for  miles  may  be 
enjoyed.  A  night  of  railroad  was  before  me,  and  the 
penalty  of  an  early  dinner,  in  order  to  catch  the  7.22 
train  for  Jubbulpore,  where  I  was  to  arrive,  after 
travelling  229  miles  by  the  E.I.R.  at  5  a.m.  on  the 
following  morning.  This  I  did  on  Tuesday,  the  22nd 
of  January,  settling  at  Clark's  Hotel,  in  a  quiet  lean- 
to  bed-room,  looking  out  into  a  garden,  the  enjoy- 
ment of  whose  freshness  and  fragrance,  however,  I 
postponed  for  a  few  short  hours  of  morning  sleep. 
After  breakfast,  arrangements  were  easily  made  for 
the  excursion  to  the  river. 

The  distance  is  ten  miles,  and  they  gave  me  a 
tonga  for  Rs.  5,  the  regular  charge.  I  did  not  feel 
at  all  sure  as  to  what  I  was  to  see ;  for  an  English- 
man and  his  wife,  whom  I  chanced  to  meet  at  Allaha- 
bad, and  who  were  most  anxious  to  make  the  journey, 
but  could  not,  had  been  told  by  another  Englishman 
and  his  wife  two  different  tales ;  he  having  expressed 


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58  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

himself  delighted,  and  she  having  declared  she  would 
not  cross  the  road  to  see  the  rocks  again.  My  own 
report,  if  I  met  my  first-named  travellers  again,  would 
be  that,  without  saying  it  would  have  been  worth 
their  while  to  go  and  to  return  the  number  of  miles 
it  would  have  cost  them,  yet  that  no  one  with  the 
slightest  sense  of  beauty  and  refinement  should  pass 
this  station  without  a  visit.  When  I  came  to  the 
river  side,  after  walking  down  a  steep  descent,  I  found 
a  boat  and  boatmen,  and  two  good-looking  young 
Brahmin  priests  with  a  friend,  who,  speaking  a  little 
English,  asked  me  to  allow  them  to  come  with  me. 
To  this  I  consented,  but  the  men  did  not  move,  nor 
speak  English  to  say  why.  Getting  impatient  the 
Brahmins  asked  for  me  "  why  ?  "  and  the  answer  was 
that  one  of  the  last  party  had  disturbed  the  wasps,  and 
they  were  afraid  of  returning  so  soon.  Now  there  is 
no  fiction  about  these  wasps,  who  build  their  large 
black  nests  on  the  rocks,  and  on  the  slightest  disturb- 
ance, either  by  the  firing  of  a  gun,  or  by  the  smell  of 
fire,  as  of  a  mere  cigar  smoked  near  them,  will  attack 
and  mortally  attack  intruders.  But  none  of  us 
seemed  disinclined  to  try,  and  so  we  went. 

We  were  soon  among  the  marbles,  and  so  singular 
an  effect  I  have  never  before  seen.  The  waters  of 
the  Nerbudda,  sometimes  furious,  were  lying  like  a 
mirror,  and  the  marble  rocks  on  both  sides  were 
reflected  on  them.  The  long  vista  was  all  marble, 
for  there  appeared  to  be  a  block  at  the  end,  and  to 
this  wc  rowed  and  'turned.  There  is  nothing  grand 
in  the  scenery ;  perhaps  none  of  the  marble  cliffs 
are  much  more  than  a  hundred  feet  high.     But  the 


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o 

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JVBBULPOSE,  59 

fairy-like  effect  is  charming.     The  colouring  is  most 
artistic.     Strange  to  say  I  had  been  warned  against 
being  disappointed,  because  there  would  be  what  was 
called  much  discolouring.     But  in  point  of  fact  this 
added  a  charm.     There  was  exquisite  white  below, 
where  the  waters  more  or  less  protected  the  surfaces  ; 
and    then   there   were   light   roses,   light    and   dark 
browns,  and  purples.     The  only  slight  disappoint- 
ment I  felt  was  that  there  was  not  enough  of  them. 
In  going  and  returning  you  cannot  make  out  your 
hour,  and  the  men  make  a  mere  moving  business  of 
it     In   our  case,  however,  we   had   one  additional 
chance.     There  had  been  a  slight  (and  only  a  slight) 
disturbance  of  the  wasps,  for  one  man  had  insisted 
on  mounting  one  of  the  rocks  towards  a  high  nest 
with  a  cigar  in  his  mouth.     No  sooner,  however,  did 
the  fumes  arise  than  the  alarm  commenced,  and  the 
intruding  smoker  fled  so  quickly  that  he  left  his  cap 
behind  him.     This  cap  he  had  given  a  rower  some- 
thing to  recover ;  so  we  hove  to  at  the  spot,  and  the 
man  mounted  the  crags,  while  we  waited  and  gazed 
below.     I  kept  everyone  dawdling  here   and  there 
besides,  as  well  as  I  could,  but  all  was  over,  never- 
theless, too  soon.     I  climbed  to  the  road  on  return- 
ing in  company  with  the  Brahmins,  who  took  the 
opportunity   of  hoping  and  ascertaining  that  I   was 
not  a  missionary ;  and  then  broke  forth  in  protesta- 
tions   against    having    their  own    revered    religion 
interfered  with.     So  ended  my  visit  to  the  Marble 
Rocks. 

I  was  now  to  complete  my  journey  to  Bombay — 
whither  another  6i6  miles  of  railway  still  remained. 


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60  WANDRR/NGS   AND    WONDERJNGS. 

by  the  G.I.R.R.  But  I  did  not  intend  travelling 
straight  through,  for  I  should  pass  by  stations  where 

I  meditated  a  halt.  The  first  was  that  of  Pechora, 
for  a  visit  to  the  Ajunta  caves  ;  and  the  second  was 
that  of  Nandgaon  for  Ellora.  As  regards  the  first, 
however,  my  hopes  were  small,  though  I  was 
resolved  to  make  the  trial.  I  had  therefore  written 
the  station-master  that  I  was  coming  by  a  certain 
train,  and  would  take  the  advantage  of  a  few  minutes' 
talk  with  him  on  the  subject.  It  was  6.10  in  the 
morning  that  I  left  Jubbulpore,  and  between  10  and 

I I  at  night  that  we  came  to  Pechora,  where  I  im- 
mediately got  out  and  looked  for  the  station-master, 
who  was  also  looking  for  me.  The  hope  was  hope- 
less. Twelve  hours  each  way  in  a  bullock  waggon 
over  a  vile  road,  and  no  one  at  hand  to  undertake 
the  journey,  nor  any  sort  of  refuge  for  the  night  ; 
all  this  decided  me  to  abandon  the  attempt.  So  on 
I  went  to  Nandgaon  for  Ellora.  From  what  I  could 
gather  the  Ajunta  excursion  requires  long  prepara- 
tion, and  the  real  mode  of  undertaking  it  is  to  make 
up  a  party  for  a  few  days. 

At  Nandgaon  we  arrived  at  about  half-past  one 
in  the  cold  morning  of  the  24th,  and,  having  written 
to  this  station-master  also,  he  was  there  to  greet  me 
when  I  left  the  train.  Ellora  was  practicable,  because 
there  was  a  dak  bungalpw  near  the  station,  and  a 
Parsee  postmaster  to  provide  a  tonga.  But  everyone 
was  fast  asleep :  so  when  the  train  was  gone,  the 
master  came  with  me  to  the  post-office  and  knocked 
the  Parsee  up,  who  came  cheerfully  forth,  showing  no 
disposition  to  knock  him  down  in  return.     He  was  a 


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ELLORA,  6l 

good,  stout,  manly  fellow,  evidently  blessed  with  a 
good  digestion — almost  the  whole  secret  of  life  being 
worth  living — and  at  once  acceded  to  my  sugges- 
tions. These  Parsees,  as  I  came  gradually  to  know, 
are  the  life  and  soul  of  the  tonga  business  through- 
out India.  Early  mornings  can  be  cold  in  India, 
and  this  one  kept  up  that  character.  I  was  to  get 
what  rest  I  could  in  the  barren  bungalow  close  by, 
and  to  be  up  and  out  again  at  five.  This  task  I 
managed  to  accomplish,  and  cheerfully  resigning  my 
hard  sofa  at  that  hour  for  some  hot  milk  and  coffee, 

"  Passed  out  in  open  air  preventing  day." 

It  IS  not  necessary  to  go  as  far  as  Arungabad  in 
order  to  visit  Ellora,  but  the  Parsee  persuaded  me 
to  do  so.  It  lies  fifty-six  miles  from  Nandgaon,  and 
entails  fourteen  miles  to  and  fro  beyond  the  turning 
to  Ellora.  I  passed  the  night  at  the  bungalow,  bare 
and  uncomfortable  enough,  and  learned  that  Mr. 
Caine,  M.P.,  was  in  the  next  compartment,  but  I 
did  not  see  him,  and  found  a  little  whisky  for  my 
water,  notwithstanding ;  while  a  shrivelled  old  man 
brought  me  in  a  screaming  white  young  cock,  to 
show  me  what  I  was  to  have  for  dinner.  The  only 
object  worth  attention  in  the  town  was  the  mosque 
built  by  Aurungzebe,  in  imitation  of  his  father  Shah 
Jehan's  tomb,  the  celebrated  Taje  Mehal,  of  Agra. 
It  was  built  (says  Fergusson)  in  memory  of  his 
favourite  daughter  Rabia  Diiranee  ;  and  he  adds, 
that  "  it  narrowly  escapes  vulgarity  and  bad  taste." 
I  must  confess  this  remark  quite  chimes  in  with  my 
impressions,  later  on  imbibed  at  Agra,  as  to  how 


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62  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDRRfNGS. 

much  the  building  there  owes  of  its  fair  fame  to  its 
material,  and  its  careful  structure.  Here  both  were 
coarse,  and  afforded  an  unhappy  introduction  to 
Agra. 

The  morning  of  the  2Sth  shone  bright  and  beautiful, 
and  I  started  with  satisfaction  for  Ellora,  my  chief 
object  being  to  realize  the  great  monolithic  Temple 
of  Kylas.  Fourteen  miles  back  brought  us  to  the 
turning,  at  first  an  open  road,  but  afterwards  pic- 
turesque. We  crossed  a  stream  at  a  descent,  at  the 
end,  and  came  direct  through  shrubs  to  Kylas.  But 
it  was  very  difficult  to  make  out  what  it  was  I  first 
saw  as  I  was  approaching,  for  it  certainly  was  not 
the  temple.  It  turned  out  to  be  the  dark,  discoloured 
vertical  face  of  the  cut  in  the  hill,  where  this  had  been 
dug  out  for  the  purpose  of  this  wonderful  monolith, 
which,  with  all  its  details,  was  to  be  formed  out  of  the 
mass  left  in  the  middle.  Fergusson  gives  loo  feet  in 
height  to  this  inner  face,  which  fronts  directly  to  the 
road  you  come  by,  and  half  that  height  to  the  outer- 
most sides.  The  floor  of  this  pit,  with  a  flat  entrance, 
is  I  so  feet  wide  and  270  feet  in  length.  In  the  centre 
of  this  floor  stands  this  elaborate  temple,  mono- 
lithic, carved  out  of  a  block  of  stone,  interiorly 
and  exteriorly,  and  flanked  on  its  two  sides  and 
its  inner  end  by  these  vertical  cuttings,  through 
all  three  of  which  runs  a  continuous  dark  pillared 
corridor. 

I  confess  to  have  been  profoundly  impressed  with 
this  strange  and  imposing  reality,  and  very  little 
inclined  afterwards  to  read  how  Fergusson  dilutes 
the  wonder  of  the  structure  by  arguing  that  it  is 


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RLLORA.  63 

considerably  easier,  and  less  expensive,  to  excavate 
an  elaborate  temple  out  of  a  block,  than  to  build 
one  by  separate  pieces.  This  sounds  like  destroying 
faith  by  reason,  or  dispersing  a  miracle  by  proving 
sleight  of  hand.  It  is  a  luxury,  sometimes,  to  be 
amazed,  and  I  felt  thus  amazed  by  wandering  to  and 
fro,  and  in  and  out  of  Kylas.  It  is  not  a  building  ;  it  is 
a  great  block  of  stone  hammered  and  chiselled  into  an 
elaborate  temple  ;  and  it  rises  out  of  and  belongs  to 
its  own  floor,  standing  in  its  own  pit,  and  between 
its  own  precipices.  And  round  and  round  the  gal- 
leries in  these  I  walked  continually,  contemplating 
the  fane  after  wandering  among  its  pilgrims  in  the 
interior.  Fergusson's  sketch  gives  some  idea,  and 
only  some,  of  the  reality,  and  in  his  pages  you  must 
find  the  details.  I  had  but  little  time  for  the  other 
caves,  and  did  not  much  care  to  confuse  my  impres- 
sions^ so  that  when  I  had  mounted  the  hill  side  and 
looked  down  upon  the  structure  and  its  elaborate 
roofing,  and  yet  again  had  wandered  through  its 
interior,  I  came  away  with  a  memory, "  unmixed  with 
baser  matter,"  of  the  solitude  and  solemnity  of 
Kylas. 

As  I  was  determined  to  reach  Bombay  on  the  next 
day,  I  had  to  start  very  early  for  Nandgaon  station 
to  catch  the  10.10  morning  train,  which  a  little  extra 
bakhshish  to  the  driver  enabled  me  to  do.  The 
rough  ponies  in  their  rough  harness  travelled  ex- 
tremely well,  though  a  great  deal  of  time  was  lost  at 
all  the  frequent  changes,  and  I  paid  Rs.  50  for  the 
whole  excursion.  Our  train  was  late  on  arrival,  in 
consequence,  I  believe,  of  various  crowded  ones  to 


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64  WANDERIXGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

see  a  parachute  descent.  We  passed  the  ThuU  or 
Tal  Ghaut  in  full  dayh'ght,  with  which  I  was  not  so 
much  impressed  as  I  had  expected  to  be  ;  and,  on 
arriving,  I  made  my  way  to  the  best  built  hotel  (at 
all  events) — the  "  Esplanade." 


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VII. 


When  McCulloch  published  his  geographical  dic- 
tionary in  1844,  he  wrote  of  Bombay  that  its  best 
streets  were  scarcely  equal  to  the  suburbs  of  Cal- 
cutta or  Madras.  He  could  not  have  said  the  same 
thing  to-day.  Bombay  is  aa  imposing  city,  contain- 
ing several  fine  large  public  buildings,  principally 
constructed,  as  it.  seemed  .to  me,  in  the  mediaeval, 
narrow  arch  window  style ;  one  much  more  adapted 
for  that  sky  and  climate  than  our  London,  where 
people  are  already  far  too  fond  of  introducing  it. 
The  Esplanade  Hotel  itself  is  a  fine  building  (I 
speak  of  the  building)  and  close  to  it  stands  the 
Secretariat.  You  will  not  care  to  go  through  the 
list  with  me,  but  I  will  mention  the  enormous  Law 
Courts,  and  the  University  Library  with  its  lofty 
Clock  Tower,  260  feet  in  height.  Here  also,  as  in 
Calcutta,  there  are  two  cities,  European  and  Native  : 
and  an  immediate  drive  from  one  to  the  other  is  the 
best  of  ail  modes  of  describing  both  to  one's  own  satis* 
faction.  It  seems  strange  that  all  should  be  on  an 
island,  and  a  small  one  too — this  being  the  capital  of 
the  Presidency. 

Then,  if  you  want,  as  of  course  all  do,  to  see 
the  Caves  of  Elcphanta,.  you  embark  in  a  steam 
launch  for  another  island,  and  a  much  smaller  one, 
lying  to  the  east  in  the  bay.     Come  with  me  and  see 

F 


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66  WAj\;nFfef^;Gs  akd  vvoMnERhxas, 

them  at  once.  You  must  have  already  seen  them 
illustrated,  and  will  not  need  any  very  particular  de- 
scription of  them.  I  might  lightly  describe  our  small 
party.  There  was  an  American  preacher,  and  an 
English  clergyman,  who  talked  to  him  incessantly,  and 
I  am  quite  sure  professionally  ;  and  when  we  came  to 
the  caves  talked  nonsense  about  Athens  and  Greek 
architecture.  Athens  at  Elephanta!  Then  there 
was  an  American  of  the  softer  sex,  but  of  the  harsher 
voice.  She  was  not  ill-natured,  but  very  loud  about 
equality — d>  propos  to  nothing.  She  was  "  as  good 
as  Queen  Victoria  :  quite,"  and  there  was  no  stop- 
ping her,  till  I  reminded  her  she  had  forgotten  one 
question.  "  How's  that  ?  ^^  "  Do  you  think  Queen 
Victoria  is  as  good  as  yourself.?''  "  Well,  I  daresay 
she  is,"  was  the  reply,  and  a  final  one  for  the  moment. 
Then  said  one  of  them  to  me  :  "  We  re  an  All  Round 
party  from  the  States,  and  that  good  woman  has 
been  a  scourge  all  through."  So  much  for  travelling 
parties !  The  other  two  were  an  honest  man  and  his 
wife,  and  he  was  connected  with  coal  mining,  and 
made  much  more  sensible  observations  than  the 
classical  ecclesiastic.  He  was  puzzled  how  the  flat 
roof  of  a  cave  could  stand  so  firm  with  such  small 
support,  and  this  circumstance  is  striking  when  the 
remark  is  made.  For  many  of  the  pillars  have  been 
shot  away,  the  Portuguese  being  accused  of  having 
religiously  brought  in  cannon  for  that  holy  purpose. 
The  delicate  fluting  of  these  pillars  may  be  observed, 
as  adding  greatly  to  the  general  effect  ;  but  the  whole 
interior  is  not  large.  The  island  itself  is  very  pic- 
turesque and  well  wooded,  and  you  mount  by  a  great 


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BOMB  A  Y.  67 

many  steps  to  the  caves,  whence  you  enjoy  a  very 
pleasing  view  of  the  harbour;  and  the  excursion  is 
a  short  and  easy  one. 

I  was  very  fortunate  in  having  a  letter  ot  introduction 
from  Mr.  Thompson,  of  the  Pall  Mall  Gazette,  to  the 
then  Governor,  Lord  Reay,  for  this  not  only  gave 
me  the  entrance  to  Government  House,  where  I  was 
received  with  all  kindness,  but,  before  I  left  Bombay, 
obtained  for  me  several  letters  from  Lady  Reay  that 
enabled  me  to  visit  the  Kattiawar  Peninsula,  on  my 
way  north,  which  Fergusson's  volume  had  made  me 
very  anxious  to  do,  especially  in  regard  to  Palitana. 
No  sooner  had  I  had  time  to  turn  round  in  Bombay 
than  I  found  a  former  Egyptian  acquaintance,  whom 
I  had  known  in  Alexandria,  in  the  person  of  Judge 
Scott.  Nor  was  I  many  hours  before  enjoying  his 
hospitality,  as  also  that  of  Mr.  Forrest,  of  Messrs. 
KilHck  Lixon  and  Cie.  Mr.  Sedgwick  entertained 
me  at  the  BycuUa  Club,  and,  in  particular,  intro- 
duced me  to  the  Library  of  the  Bombay  Branch  of 
the  Asiatic  Society,  which  was  a  great  resource  for 
reading  all  the  English  papers.  On  Wednesday 
evening,  the  30th  of  January,  I  had  the  honour  of 
attending  a  very  picturesque  "  At  Home  "  at  Govern- 
ment House.  There  was  no  lack  of  hospitality  at 
Bombay.  The  only  drawback  to  these  entertain- 
ments was  that  I  presently  felt  an  unusual  sensation 
in  my  throat,  and,  on  consulting  a  chemist,  was 
smilingly  and  heartlessly  informed  that  I  had  "  only 
got  the  Bombay  throat ; "  and  this,  I  found,  was  a 
penalty  very  generally  paid  by  visitors,  who  would 
aspire    to  be  entertained    by   friends    in    Bombay, 

F  2 

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68  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDEJiJNGS. 

living  on  Malabar  Hill.  Before  I  finally  left  I  had 
certainly  made  up  my  mind  that  I  did  not  like  the 
climate. 

I  had  yet  another  friend  at  hand,  in  the  person  of  Mr. 
R.  A.  Willis,  of  Messrs.  Faber  and  Cie.,  who,  besides 
entertaining  me  at  the  Byculla  Club,  afforded  me  the 
opportunity  of  passing  two  interesting  mornings — 
one  very  pleasant  as  well  as  interesting,  the  other, 
certainly  interesting  because  most  novel,  but  cer- 
tainly scarcely  pleasant. 

I  have  already  spoken  of  the  Ajunta  Caves  and  of 
my  disappointment  at  not  being  able  to  visit  them. 
Having  mentioned  this  subject  to  him,  he  at  once 
proposed  to  drive  me  to  call  upon  Mr.  Griffiths,  the 
chief  of  the  School  of  Art,  with  whom  he  made  an 
appointment  to  receive  us.  On  going  there  I  was 
well  repaid,  for  I  think  I  must,  in  truth,  have  seen  all 
Ajunta  before  me.  The  number  and  the  variety, 
including  colouring,  of  the  principal  features  was 
really  surprising.  I  scarcely  felt  I  could  wish  to  go 
with  him  on  his  next  visit,  and  did  not  feel,  from  all 
he  said,  that  I  should  have  gained  anything  in  going 
alone  sufficient  to  repay  me  for  an  inordinate  pro- 
portion of  fatigue  and  a  mere  uninstructed  stare.  His 
reproductions  were  most  remarkable ;  visibly  so  ;  and 
he  possessed  various  most  curious  fabrics  and  vases 
into  the  bargain. 

My  second  excursion  with  Mr.  Willis  was  quite 
different.  It  was  to  the  Parsee  Towers  of  Silence. 
Mr.  Willis  had  evidently  considerable  authority  in 
our  hotel,  of  apparently  an  official  character,  and  the 
manager  of  the    hotel   was   a   Parsee — Cowasji,    D. 


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BOMBAY.  69 

Furdonji.  On  mentioning  the  subject,  and  my 
desire  to  behold  the  scene,  our  Parsee  most  cour- 
teously assented,  and  he  was,  of  course,  to  be  the 
j^ide  under  whose  conduct  we  could  be  admitted  to 
the  garden.  Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  the  2nd 
of  February,  we  went,  the  Parsee  offering  me  a 
small  descriptive  pamphlet,  in  English,  followed  by  a 
long  list  of  certificates  of  approval  by  those  who  had 
been  visitors.  The  first  three  words  of  one  of  these 
I  well  remember :  it  was  signed  approvingly  by  Lord 
Randolph  Churchill,  and  it  began,  "I  permit  myself, 
etc.,  etc."  I  kept  the  pamphlet  till  the  end,  but  I  then 
returned  it  for  some  one  else.  I  had  no  right  what- 
soever to  protest,  nor  indeed  felt  inclined  to  do  so, 
but  I  could  not  "  permit  myself "  to  approve.  The 
whole  affair  appeared  so  unpleasantly  strange.  I 
thought  of  the  curse  truly  or  fabulously  pronounced 
on  Jezebel,  and  then  of  the  remarkable  variety  of 
sentiment  of  which  the  human  brain  must  be  pro- 
ductive. For  here  goes  on  a  process  in  the  name  of 
affection  and  regard  which  ends  in  what  was  for  her 
.  intended  as  the  worst  of  insults,  and  a  curse.  For 
what  is  the  mode  of  burial,  so  to  call  it?  It  is  just 
what  prevented  her  burial,  which  Jehu  (if  he  was  in 
fact  contemporaneous)  sent  out  to  order.  We  had 
full  licence  of  entrance  all  round  the  towers  and 
garden,  and  that  was  enough.  These  Towers  of 
Silence  are,  I  believe,  five  in  number.  They  are 
scarcely  towers,  for  they  are  not  more  than  fifteen 
feet  in  height,  and  from  sixty  to  eighty  in  diameter  ; 
and  they  are  built  with  great  solidity,  with  an  open 
hollow  in  the  centre,  occupied  by  many  open  stone 


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70  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

receptacles.  Round  the  edges  of  these  towers  sit 
silent  and  sulky-looking,  high-shouldered,  obscene 
vultures,  still  as  the  dead  they  wait  for.  But  you  are 
in  a  beautiful  and  well-kept  garden  of  trees  and 
flowers.  Presently  a  funeral  train  appears,  and  a 
movement  of  hustling  life  begins  among  the  nearest 
tower  birds.  They  turn  their  filthy  heads  to  see 
what  is  coming  for  them,  and  they  are  glad  to  greet 
the  mourning  group.  The  naked  corpse  is  duly 
placed  in  one  of  the  open  stone  receptacles.  The 
bearers  reappear  with  cloth  and  empty  bier,  and 
down  swoop  these  birds  from  tower  and  tree,  and 
behold  a  skeleton  alone  remains.  Such  are  the 
Towers  of  Silence  and  such  the  mode  of  burial.  Fare- 
well, vultures — and  roses. 

There  was  nothing  in  the  description  of  Poena 
that  tempted  me  to  go  there,  nor  did  I  intend  any 
excursions  southward,  considering  all  of  interest  I  had 
to  visit  in  the  north  before  the  heats  invaded  the 
plains.  But  I  had  made  up  my  mind  to  see  the  cave 
at  Karli,  which  Fcrgusson  calls  the  finest  of  its  class, 
and  his  illustration  of  which  is  most  attractive.  The 
proper  station  for  this  visit  is  Khandalla,  about 
seventy-eight  miles  from  Bombay,  and  not  the  next 
Lonauli,  unless  you  mean  to  make  a  scampering 
return  day  of  the  journey,  eating  something  at  the 
refreshment  room. 

My  fellow-passenger  from  England,  Mr.  Ford,  was 
already  there,  to  whom  I  telegraphed,  and  who  met 
me  at  the  station.  The  hotel  was  very  comfortable, 
and  the  scenery  remarkably  picturesque.  I  slept,  or 
meant  to  do  so,  in  one  of  the  small  houses,  but  was 


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BOAfBAY.  71 

awoke  at  about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  by 
two  arrivals  in  the  opposite  room,  who  appeared 
never  intending  to  lie  down  in  silence.  At  last  I 
opened  my  door  to  expostulate,  when,  with  a  thousand 
apologies,  they  informed  me  that  in  fact  they  were 
not  going  to  bed  at  all,  but  were  re-costuming  for  a 
tiger-hunt — oneofthoseanimals  having  lately  appeared 
on  the  neighbouring  hills.  The  result  was  not  satis- 
factory, for  they  returned  without  the  tiger,  having 
seen  only  the  bright  eye  of  a  panther,  lying  inside  a 
rock.  But  the  effect  on  me  was  that  I  was  kept 
talking  to  them  until,  when  they  had  gone,  it  was 
time  for  me  to  think  of  going  too — but  not  for  a  tiger. 
1  was  in  the  tonga  by  half-past  five,  with  five  miles 
along  the  Poona  Road,  lined  with  mango  trees  ;  then 
we  crossed  a  rough  plain  to  the  left  for  a  good  mile, 
whence  I  had  to  take  foot  for  another  good  mile  ;  and 
then  began  the  climb.  Whatever  the  height  was,  it 
seemed  to  me  something  like  600  feet,  and  then  you 
turn  into  certain  recesses  of  the  variously  shaped 
mountain — the  top  being  yet  much  higher — before 
you  come  in  full  view  of  the  fine  arched  cave.  Into 
this  you  look  direct,  with  the  slight  interference  of  a 
screen  and  entrance.  The  interior  consists  of  one 
entire  arched  nave,  given  as  of  81  feet  3  inches  in 
length  to  the  dagoba,  and  of  25  feet  7  inches  in 
breadth ;  and  it  is  flanked  by  fifteen  handsome 
pillars  on  either  side,  with  a  narrow  aisle  behind  them. 
The  height  is  of  46  feet  to  the  crown  of  the  uniform 
arch,  which  is  composed  of  curved  beams.  The 
light  comes  in  copiously  from  the  open  front,  and  you 
see  the  whole  interior  at  once.     Great  solemnity  per- 


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72  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDER/NGS. 

vades  the  scene ;  and  round  the  cold  massive  circular 
dagoba  at  the  end  there  happened  to  be,  while  I  was 
there,  a  living  illustration  of  the  dark  superstition 
that  is  the  spirit  of  these  structures  —  of  these, 
among  so  many  others  in  all  quarters  of  the  globe — 
in  that  a  solitary  being  was  walking  and  kneeling  by 
turns  round  and  round,  and  counting  his  beads — for 
Buddhists  have  rosaries  too — and  muttering  his 
special  prayers,  with  all  the  attitudes  of  intense 
devotion  and  ardent  expectation. 

I  hung  about  the  place  for  some  long  time,  and 
can  even  now  somev/hat  vividly  recall  the  tone  of 
mind  that  it  gave  rise  to.  These  dark  Buddhists' 
temples  impress  one  far  more  than  do  the  mosques 
of  Islam.  And  behold  I  my  visit  was  on  a  Sunday. 
On  the  Monday  I  spent  the  whole  day  with  pleasure 
at  Khandalla,  and  on  Tuesday,  the  Sth  of  February, 
returned  by  early  train,  with  Mr.  Ford,  to  Bombay. 
Hence,  he  and  General  Johnston  scampered  off  to 
England  at  once,  leaving  me  to  begin  and  pursue  my 
long  course  to  the  north. 

On  Thursday,  the  7th  of  February,  I  had  the 
honour  of  dining  with  a  large  party  at  Government 
House,  where  the  whole  scene  with  the  turbaned 
waiters  presented  quite  a  brilliant  Indian  picture ;  and 
it  was  in  a  long  evening  conversation  afterwards  with 
Lady  Reay  that  I  obtained  my  valuable  letters  to 
Kattiawar,  with  much  information  on  the  subject. 
Nor  shall  I  omit  to  say  that  her  ladyship  did  me  the 
honour  to  accept  of  me  a  copy  of  my  translation  of 
the  "  Lusiads.*'  I  was  also  fortified  with  several  letters 
from  Parsee  B.  M.  Malabari ;  and  by  the  6.30  p.m., 


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BOA/BAY.  73 

Madras  time,  on  Saturday,  the  9th  of  February,  I 
started  for  my  310  miles  to  Ahmedabad,  which  Lady 
Reayhad  earnestly  recommended  me  not  to  miss,  by 
the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and  Central  India  Railway.  I 
must  not  forget,  by  the  way,  that  the  day  before  Mr. 
Behrens,  one  of  the  tiger-hunters,  suddenly  appeared 
in  perfect  safety,  and  pledged  me  to  dine  with  him  at 
the  Byculla.  He  had  been  out  again  and  seen  the 
tiger,  and  nearly  got  a  shot  at  him  ;  but  a  companion 
spoiled  (he  sport.  That  the  tiger  was  really  there 
was  true  ;  for  a  few  days  afterwards  the  newspapers 
reported  that  it  had  been  hunted  and  shot  by  a 
young  officer. 


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VIII. 

It  was  about  eight  o'clock  on  the  next  morning 
that  I  reached  the  station  at  Ahmedabad,  where  I 
made  up  my  bed,  feeding  at  the  meals  provided  for 
the  passengers ;  for  this  was  a  refreshment  station. 
And  after  breakfast  I  drove  into  the  beautiful  old 
city.  There  was  little  indeed  of  Kylas  or  of  Karli  to 
be  seen  here,  for  all  is  Islam.  The  whole  feeling 
was  changed,  just  as  might  two  languages  mark  two 
different  peoples. 

It  is  a  most  engaging  old  city,  extremely 
picturesque  in  its  old  architecture  ;  and  in  almost  all 
the  old  houses  you  may  remark  quantities  of  beautiful 
wood  and  stone  carving  by  way  of  ornament.  Then 
note  the  noble  triple  gateway  that  spans  the  very 
broad  main  street,  and  all  the  costumed  people 
scattered,  marketing  or  otherwise,  over  the  broad 
space.  When  I  passed  this  spot  at  the  setting  of  the 
sun,  I  bid  the  driver  go  very  slowly  that  I  might 
dwell  on  the  living  kaleidoscope.  The  structure  I 
mention  is  imposing  ;  the  height  of  the  arches  is  25 
feet,  the  centre  gate  20  feet  wide,  and  that  of  each 
side  gate  17  feet  wide ;  and  the  whole  structure  towers 
upwards  in  proportion.  Of  course  there  are  all  the 
well-known  mosques  and  tombs  to  be  visited,  and  the 
well.  There  is  the  famous  specimen  of  stone  window 
tracery  in  the  desecrated  mosque  in  the  bhudder,  or 


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AHAfEDABAD.  75 

palace ;  there  is  the  tomb  of  Shah  Alam,  and  the 
Jumma  Musjie,  or  Friday  mosque,  Friday  being  the 
Holy  Day  of  Islam.  This  is  indeed  a  beautiful 
building,  with  all  its  260  pillars  and  its  fifteen  domes ; 
but  is  connected  in  my  mind  with  a  great  disappoint- 
ment, seeing  that  Fergusson  compares  it  with  the 
temple  near  Sadri,  which  I  had  the  greatest  but  in- 
effectual curiosity  to  see.  At  page  241  appears  the 
illustration  and  his  tantalizing  description  both  of  the 
building,  with  its  "  forest  of  columns"  and  "endless 
variety  of  prospective,"  and  the  "  play  of  light  and 
shade."  But  do  what  I  could,  and  say  what  I  could, 
no  one  could  give  me  the  slightest  information  of 
how  I  was  to  find  "  the  remote  valley  piercing  the 
western  flank  of  the  *  Aravulli,*  b:ing  a  spot  evidently 
selected  for  its  natural  beauties,"  which  Khumbo 
Rana  of  Oudeypore  chose  for  rearing  this  charming 
structure.  Only  when  I  had  reached  Jeypur,  still 
inquiring,  did  I  by  the  merest  chance  find  someone 
who  could  give  me  an  inkling  of  the  place  ;  and 
acting  on  this  I  at  length  made  the  discovery,  too  late 
(and  which  I  can  only  give  to  others  inspired  by  the 
like  curiosity  with  myself),  that  the  station  to  stop  at 
is  Falna,  on  the  Bombay  and  Baroda  line,  far  away 
from  where  I  was  when  at  last  I  was  informed.  But 
there  is  no  waiting-room,  and  only  somewhat  rough 
arrangements  can  be  made  for  a  sixteen  mile  ride  to 
Sadri,  whence  a  short  excursion  serves  to  show  the 
temple.  I  invite  nobody  to  go,  but  would  have  con- 
trived to  go  myself. 

It  would  not   be   permissible,   however,   to  leave 
Ahmedabad  without  visiting  the   Temple   of  Thet 


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y6  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS,     . 

Huttising  outside  the  Delhi  gate.  This  is  a  Jain 
.  temple,  and  the  Jains,  or  followers  of  Jina,  a  sort  of 
dissenter  from  true  Buddhism,  are  the  most  elabo- 
rate and  picturesque  of  the  architects  in  India.  The 
elaboration  of  this  temple  is  most  extraordinary. 
Here,  as  elsewhere,  the  porch  is  truly  beautiful,  and 
indeed  magnificent  in  its  compound  structure,  full  of 
perspective  with  its  pillars,  and  leading  to  an  inner 
porch  with  twenty-two  pillars.  The  drawing  in 
Fergusson  gives  an  idea  of  the  almost  overladen 
building,  but  does  not  show  the  outer  porch.  I 
wandered  all  round  the  outside,  and  failed  to  see 
even  a  small  blank  about  it  anywhere,  and  of  course 
the  inside  corresponds.  Figures  of  Buddha  are  in 
the  niches  round  the  corridors,  and  in  the  middle  is 
a  large  black  one,  before  which  my  guide  hummed  a 
low,  melancholy  religious  cadence.  Into  the  cell, 
however,  their  "  Holy  of  Holies,"  you  are  not  ad- 
mitted. There  is  a  grand  Buddha — no  mere  in- 
visible supposed  occupant :  and  all  is  dedicated  to 
Dharmanath,  the  15th  Thirthanker,  or  (as  I  was 
told)  Holy  Pilgrim.  But  strange  to  say,  a  certain 
charm  is  wanting,  from  the  mere  fact  that  the  build- 
ing is  not  old,  not  yet  quite  half  a  century 
having  elapsed  since  it  was  finished.  Say  what  we 
will,  we  love  the  mystery  of  antiquity,  and  hate  hard 
modern  outline.  Green  parrots  and  doves  were 
hovering  round  the  roofing.  So  ended  my  visit  to 
Ahmedabad,  to  which  no  passer-by  should  fail  to 
pay  his  reverence. 

Now   came   the   time   for   my  special  divergence 
into    the    Kattiwar    or    Kattiawar    Peninsula,    for 


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KATTIAWAR   PF.X INSULA.  TJ 

which  I  held  passports  from  Lady  Reay,  and  my 
anxiety  to  visit  which  had  been  awakened  by  Fer- 
gusson^s  illustrations  and  descriptions.  The  journey 
involved  an  extra  distance  of  230  miles  to  the  utmost 
point,  and  the  same  back  again,  because  I  should  be 
obh'ged  to  return  to  Ahmedabad  in  order  to  continue 
my  main  course  northwards.  But  when  one  has 
started,  with  no  tie  on  his  time  but  the  change  into 
the  hot  from  the  cool  season — a  matter  of  mortal 
importance,  by-the-way,  in  India — a  few  hundred 
miles  more  or  less  are  not  much  thought  of.  And 
railways  have,  moreover,  made  such  a  difference 
within  the  space  of  so  few  years.  I  am  old  enough 
to  remember  our  grand  old  coaching  d§^ys :  ten 
miles  (or  now  and  then  a  little  more)  an  hour,  in- 
cluding changes  and  meals  ;  and  in  the  cold  weather, 
however  warmly  clad,  the  getting  off  without  much 
knowledge  of  having  either  toes  and  fingers  ;  com- 
pared with  all  which  the  comforts  and  rapidity  of 
movement  now  have  robbed  almost  all  travelling  of 
enterprise.  I  was  lately  carelessly  looking  through  that 
ever-entertaining  volume,  "Sketches  by  Boz,"  and 
came  upon  the  one  entitled  "  Early  Coaches."  Look 
at  the  illustration  by  our  immortal  Cruickshank  :  it 
is  a  reality  ;  and  Dickens'  pages  are  equally  alive. 
The  unfeeling  indifference  of  the  clerks  and  porters 
to  the  traveller's  agony ;  they  are  as  "  cool  and 
collected,"  he  says, "  as  if  nobody  was  going  out  of 
town,  or  as  if  a  journey  of  a  hundred  odd  miles  were 
a  mere  nothing."  We  have  almost  come  to  think  a 
journey  of  ten  times  that  distance  "  a  mere  nothing  ;'^ 
and  assuredly,  with  all  the  present  facilities  at  com- 


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78  IVA^fDRR/NGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

mand,  at  ten  times  told,  we  can  scarcely  hold  our- 
selves so  hardy  as  those  of  even  sixty  or  seventy 
years  ago.  tn  the  last  century  mere  home  travellers 
were  almost  explorers. 

If  you  laok  at  page  227  of  Fergusson,  you  will 
find  his  illustration  of  Palitana  ;  or  rather  of  The 
Sacred  Hill  of  Sutrunjya,  near  Palitana — that  first 
word  (rightly  or  wrongly  spelt  according  to  diverse 
authorities)  signifying  "  The  Conqueror  of  Enemies." 
This  illustration  is  very  striking,  but  gives  no  real 
representation  of  the  scene  itself  Indeed,  no  illus- 
tration could,  for  the  configuration  forbids  it.  I 
started  from  Ahmedabad  at  8.10  a.m.,  and  reached 
Bhaunagur  by  5.12  p.m.,  where  I  was  most  plea- 
santly received  with  my  letter  by  the  Government 
officer,  Mr.  Proctor  Sims  and  Mrs.  Sims,  and  directed 
to  the  bungalow  for  a  bed.  On  returning  to  dine 
and  spend  a  pleasant  evening  there,  I  had  the  honour 
of  an  introduction  to  the  Maharajah  of  Bhaunagur — a 
most  genial  gentleman — who  was  on  a  short  visit  of 
friendly  ceremony  at  the  moment  of  my  arrival,  and 
whom  I  had  the  advantage  of  seeing  in  all  that 
glorious  style  of  costume  that  I  was  so  disappointed 
at  not  seeing  at  Lord  Dufferin's  final  garden  party. 
In  coming  to  Bhaunagur,  however,  I  found  I  had 
come  too  far  for  my  ultimate  journey  ;  I  should  have 
left  the  train,  on  that  one  consideration,  at  Songad, 
the  second  station  from  Dhola  Junction  ;  but  happy 
was  I  to  be  where  I  was. 

My  next  letter  was  to  Captain  Ferris,  the  Assistant 
Political  Agent,  whose  station  was  this  same  Son- 
gad  ;  and  in  the  morning  of  the  12th  of  February  I 


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KATTIAWAR   PENINSULA .  79 

breakfasted  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Proctor  Sims,  and 
he  drove  me  to  the  station.  At  Songad  I  found 
Captain  Ferris,  to  whom  Mr.  Proctor  Sims  had 
already  telegraphed,  who  took  me  home  and  intro- 
duced me  to  Mrs.  Ferris  ;  and  after  finishing  his 
court,  where  I  sat  by  his  side,  an  entertained  ob- 
server, furnished  me  with  a  carriage  half  way  to 
Palitana,  where  I  was  met  by  that  of  the  Takhore  of 
the  district.  But  I  must  not  fail  to  mention  that, 
at  the  moment  of  leaving  my  bungalow,  there  ap- 
peared two  stalwart  Eastern  figures,  with  a  huge 
tray  of  fruit  and  flowers  as  a  present  from  his 
Excellency  the  Maharajah. 

The  evening  found  me  at  the  Takhore's  Guest 
House;  a  fine  spacious  dwelling,  rather  grandly 
built ;  and  here  I  was  fed  and  housed.  Then  there 
came  the  arrangements  for  my  visit  to  the  Sacred 
Hill  the  next  morning,  for  which  I  found  all  was 
in  readiness.  Coffee  and  I  were  to  be  ready  at  half- 
past  five,  and  so  we  were.  A  short  drive  took  me 
to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  there  I  met  my  bearers 
with  a  doll,  or  square  open  seat  between  two  poles, 
four  being  the  number  to  carry  me,  with  a  relay.  We 
mounted  some  1700  feet  in  all.  And  what  a  mount  1 
Long  winding  lines  of  mounting  pilgrims  were 
making  the  ascent  with  us.  The  Sacred  Hill  is 
somewhat  lonely  on  the  plain,  so  that  everything 
stood  out  intensely ;  males  and  females,  grown 
people  and  children,  all  were  going  to  kneel  and  pray, 
and  to  seek  salvation  from  threatening  vengeance, 
as  in  all  religions,  except  perhaps  the  pure  Buddhist, 
who  "  utterly  rejects  the  belief  in  a  personal  god." 


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80  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDRRINGS, 

At  last  we  are  among  the  temples,  the  City  of 
Temples ;  but  really  only  the  first  of  the  Cities  of 
Temples:  and  of  Temples  only.  The  mountains 
belong  to  the  gods  ;  the  cities  belong  to  the  gods. 
No  human  habitations  are  allowed ;  none  must 
cook  food,  possibly  not  eat,  within  the  walls  ;  none 
are  dwellers  save  a  few  necessary  priests,  and  the 
sacred  pigeons;  all  else  are  pilgrims  for  the  day. 
The  temples  are  of  all  sizes,  all  dates,  and  in  all 
styles  of  details.  You  walk  through  streets  of  them. 
Grain  is  offered,  which  dogs,  of  course,  lick  up. 
Prayers  are  said  everywhere,  and  figures  of  Buddha 
appear  everywhere.  In  short,  to  use  an  admirable 
phrase  of  Fergusson,  you  are  surrounded  (unless 
you  are  a  mere  tasteless  scoffer)  with  "  bewildering 
magnificence.^'  But  what  I  have  written  applies  to 
the  first  city  alone.  Look  down,  with  a  bird's-eye 
view  upon  that  vast  group,  a  mere  flight  of  steps 
below  you.  Those  temples  are  built  upon  a  neck 
that  joins  the  two  heads  of  the  mountain.  Revel  in 
these,  and  then  mount  up  to  that  twin  crest  to  find 
just  such  another  city  of  temples  as  the  one  you  first 
wandered  in.  Such  is  a  visit  to  Palitana  Mountain 
with  all  its  thousand  structures  (speaking  indefi- 
nitely), which,  according  to  Fergusson,  date  down- 
ward from  the  nth  century  ;  and,  for  aught  I  know, 
are  being  added  to  at  this  present  hour.  All  is 
Jain  architecture,  with  whom  the  building  of  temples 
is  a  means  of  salvation  ;  it  is  in  itself "  a  prayer  in 
stone,"  having  reference  to  pilgrimage  and  not  to 
congregations. 

Perfectly  satiated  at  last,  I  returned  to  bath  and 


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KATTIAWAR  PENINSULA.  8 1 

breakfast,  meeting  as  many  coming  up  now  as  I 
had  accompanied  before.  While  at  the  table  I  was 
visited  by  a  Mr.  Dias,  the  Takhore's  lawyer  and 
manager,  to  notify  that  his  Highness  would  receive 
me  at  three  o'clock. 

No  interview  could  have  been  more  cheerful  and 
agreeable.  His  Highness  spoke  English  remarkably 
well,  and  when  at  last  I  rose  to  go,  he  struck  a  small 
bell,  at  the  sound  of  which  there  appeared  a  small 
group  of  servants  carrying  small  salvers  of  special 
seed  and  sweetmeats,  of  which  I  was  to  "  partake;" 
and  finally  his  Highness  took  a  small  brush  and 
sprinkled  me  over  with  an  infinitesimal  shower  of  an 
intensely  fragrant  water,  the  redolence  of  which 
threatened  to  last  almost  as  long  as  does  the  memory 
of  his  good-fellowship  and  kindness.  Afterwards  I 
visited  his  stables,  containing  some  120  horses,  some 
of  a  showy  breed,  and  all  stalled  (as  I  found  was 
usual  throughout  India)  by  being  rope-hobbled  on 
the  hind  fetlocks.  At  five  o'clock  I  took  my  leave 
for  Songad,  returning  as  I  had  come  ;  and  having 
dined  and  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening  with  Captain 
and  Mrs.  Ferris,  I  passed  a  night  of  luxury  in  their 
luxurious  tent. 

But  before  I  leave  this  recollection  of  their  hospi- 
tality I  must,  if  only  for  my  own  satisfaction,  recount 
a  small  item  of  conversation.  "  Your  name  is  Ferris," 
I  said;  "a  neighbouring  clergyman  of  my  father's 
acquaintance  was  of  the  name  of  Ferrers,  the  Rector 
of  Beddington,  but  I  remember  a  somewhat  stately 
lady  of  your  own  name  who  used  to  visit  two  vener- 
able aunts   of  mine  at   Banstead :  she  came  out  of 

G 


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82  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

Sussex."  "  That,"  said  he,  "  was  my  grandmother, 
the  widow  of  the  Dean  of  Battle."  And  this  in 
Gujerat ! 

I  was  now  to  prepare  for  Girnar  Mountain,  and  by 
my  notes  I  find  that  I  left  Songad  station,  on  the 
2Sth  of  February,  at  2.29  by  Dhola  and  Jetalsar 
Junctions  for  Junagadh,  and  covered  these  ninety-six 
miles  by  9.30  p.m.  I  had  telegraphed  to  the  Dewar 
Sahib  Haridas  Viharidas,  for  whom  I  had  a  letter 
from  Government  House,  but  he  was  absent.  I  was, 
however,  met  at  the  station  by  Secretary  Rajosali 
Chhaganldl  Harilal  Pandya,  who  conveyed  me  in 
a  carriage  to  the  bungalow  of  his  Highness  the 
Nawab  Sahib  of  Junagadh,  where  I  was  his  guest, 
including  a  welcome  glass  of  champagne  after  my 
day's  journey. 

At  8.30  on  the  following  morning,  my  friend  and 
protector  (who  spoke  excellent  English)  again 
appeared  with  a  carriage  to  take  me  a  drive  round, 
the  excursion  to  Girnar  being  fixed  for  the  morrow. 
We  first  drove  to  some  most  extraordinary  under- 
ground courts  or  halls,  which  had  been  discovered 
and  dug  out  some  twenty  years  before  ;  the  uses  to 
which  they  were  applied  remaining  a  mystery. 
They  are  double-storied  and  lighted  well  from  above, 
and  have  been  carved  out  with  care,  the  pillars  and 
capitals  being  well  worthy  of  attention  in  this  respect. 
It  is  supposed  they  may  have  served  for  govern- 
mental purposes.  This  mystery  overhanging  them 
of  course  lends  them  a  special  charm,  as  mystery 
always  does  if  there  is  any  trace  of  imagination  in 
the  brain ;  because  it  gives  rise  to  speculation,  and 


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KATT/AWAR  PENINSULA,  83 

speculation,  whether  fruitless   in   airy   nothings,    or 
ruinous   at   the  gaming    table,   is    always   alluring. 
There  was,  however,  very  little  room  for  speculation 
as  to   what    I    was   next  shown,   the   by   far   most 
enormous   rhinoceros  that  I   had  ever   seen.     Next 
after  this  alarming,  and  almost  impossible,  animal, 
came  the  large  unsightly  boulder,  incised  all  over, 
and  irregularly  so — the  As6ka  Stone,  said  to  exhibit 
Edicts  of  As6ka,  some  270  years  B.C.;  and  then  came 
a   walk  in   the    zoological    gardens,    where,   among 
various  engaging  flowering  shrubs  and  plants,  showing 
that   the    more   graceful    pursuits  and    studies    are 
cherished  here,  we  came  upon  a  centre  enclosure  of 
rock  and  water  containing  crocodiles.     Boys  were  at 
hand,  as  usual,  for  a  few  coppers,  with  stones  to 
disturb  these  basking  reptiles,  and  make  them  move 
and  show  themselves.     And  nothing  could  be  more 
frightful  than   to   see  their  wide  angry  jaws,  quite 
close  by,  as  they  opened  their  tongueless  mouths  and 
showed  their  frightful  armoury  of  jagged  teeth,  as 
they  dived  into  the  water.     "  Did  it  ever  strike  you,'' 
said  the  Pandya,  "  to  ask  yourself,   How  could  the 
Deity  create  such  hideous  things  ?  "     "  But,"  said  I, 
"  they  are  not  hideous  to  themselves,  and  there  must 
be  love  even  among  crocodiles.     Besides  which,  the 
Deity  made  house  flies." 

The  next  visit  was  the  most  curious  of  all ;  it  was 
to  a  Vishna  temple,  called  the  Swami  Ndrdyan 
Temple.  My  friend  belonged  to  this  temple,  so  that 
we  went  in  freely.  Many  were  present,  and  a  most 
curious  proceeding  was  going  forward.  The  gods 
were  being  fed.     All  we  saw  of  this  proceeding  were 

G  2 


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84  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

two  curtains  drawn  across  two  square  recesses, 
each  flanking  the  centre  arrangements.  But  by-and- 
by  these  curtains  were  withdrawn  suddenly,  the 
tomtoms  were  loudly  beaten,  and  lamps  were  flounced 
in  the  faces  of  two  black  squatting  figures  with 
bulging  cheeks,  indicative  of  good  feeding  indeed. 
Why  laugh }  or  why  pitifully  sigh  ?  Asia,  in  her 
different  countries,  has  her  own  interpreted  gods,  and 
Europe  has  the  same,  and  the  question  might  not 
unreasonably  be  asked,  Will  either  of  these  two 
quarters  ever  change  the  beliefs  of  the  other  ?  Is 
Europe  more  likely  to  change  Asia  than  Asia  to 
change  Europe  ? 

Afterwards  the  Pandya  sent  me  two  copies  of  a 
description,  written  by  himself,  of  the  mythological 
pictures  in  the  dome  of  the  temple,  containing  a 
succinct  account  of  the  prominent  features  of  some  of 
their  Holy  Incarnations,  of  which  they  have  several. 

The  next  day,  Sunday,  the  17th,  was  appointed 
for  the  Jain  Temples  on  Girnar  Mountain,  these 
being  the  great  object  of  my  visit  here;  and  we  started 
in  the  carriage  for  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  at  half- 
past  six  in  the  morning.  Less  than  an  hour's 
drive  brought  us  there.  Here,  again,  I  mounted  a 
doli,  and  the  Pandya  kindly  allowed  his  assistant, 
Ramji  Bhimji,  to  attend  me.  We  soon  began  to 
ascend,  and  an  ascent  indeed  it  was.  The  main  group, 
some  sixteen  in  number,  are  built  some  600  feet 
below  the  highest  peak  of  this  most  irregular  and 
jagged  mountain,  but  they  are  still  some  3000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.    What  might  be  the 


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KATTIAVVAR  PENINSULA.  85 

height  of  the  plain,  which  is  very  far  below,  I  do  not 
know.  It  cannot  be  much.  We  were  above  two 
hours  climbing  to  the  chief  temples.  A  long  paved 
way  conducts  you  at  first,  but  afterwards  you  ascend 
by  sharp  zigzags  of  a  craggy  pathway  (so  to  call  it), 
consisting  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock.  The  doH  often 
grazes  the  sides,  in  a  manner  that  might  serve  to 
shake  the  nerves  of  certain  travellers,  particularly  in 
the  descent.  Even  beyond  where  you  go  there  are 
temples  built,  where  a  long  backbone  leads  to  the 
highest  crag.  There  one  solitary  structure  stares 
against  the- sky.  Here,  indeed,  you  may  well  under- 
stand that  the  Jains  did  not  build  for  congregational 
purposes.  I  was  now  and  then  reminded  of  my  first 
climb  up  the  Gemmi,  in  Switzerland,  so  long  ago  as 
1846.  Stupendous  is  the  whole  mass  of  the  mountain 
compared  with  that  at  Palitana ;  but  barren  indeed 
in  comparison  is  the  grouping  of  the  temples. 
In  truth,  there  is  no  room  here  for  those  cities  of 
shrines.  But  there  is  verily  enough  to  see,  and  of 
quite  a  different  character.  In  the  great  group  there 
are  carved  and  decorated  cupolas,  with  the  usual 
pendents.  There  is  the  Temple  of  the  god 
Neminatha.  The  three  temples,  opening  into  one 
another,  of  the  two  brothers  Tejpala  and  Vastupala ; 
the  palace  of  King  Rachengdr  and  Queen  Ranek 
Devi,  now  converted  into  a  temple.  But  you  must 
not  stop  here  in  climbing,  you  must  mount  to  a  yet 
higher  peak,  say  the  height  of  Snowdon,  to  the 
temple  of  what  was  given  me  as  of  Anmbar.  From 
this  spot  survey  the  various  craggy  peaks  around  you, 


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86  WA\DEKINGS  AND    iVONDJtMJNGS. 

and  their  dotted  temples.  You  may,  in  fact,  climb 
and  crawl  from  one  distant  spot  to  the  other,  almost 
all  day  long.  The  view  below  of  course  is  vast  It 
has  been  called  "  truly  magnificent."  The  mountain 
and  its  peaks  and  crags,  indeed,  stand  up,  but  stand 
alone,  for  the  vast  view  beyond  is  as  flat  as  a  frying- 
pan,  and  about  as  brown.  This  is  no  magnificent  view 
for  me.  In  descending,  after  all  is  visited,  you  might 
perhaps  feel  timid,  and  should  you  incline  to  indulge 
in  a  little  safe  mental  terror,  mark  out  that  harsh, 
hideous  integral  rock  called  Bherav,  to  your  ascending 
left ;  for  from  this  pilgrims  of  old  cast  themselves 
headlong  down,  in  order  to  gain  vast  rewards  in  some 
other  world.  Going  or  coming,  you  will  not  find 
yourself  the  only  pilgrim,  though  perhaps  the  only 
irreligious  one  among  the  number,  as  they  themselves 
would  be  at  Lourdes ;  the  crags  you  would  ever 
find  sprinkled  with  them. 

At  noon  I  began  my  descent,  and  at  the  foot 
found  the  Pandya  already  there  to  meet  me  with  the 
carriage.  I  was  disappointed  in  not  being  presented 
to  the  Nawab  Sdhib  Bahadurkhanjec,  but  he  was  in 
mourning  and  sent  word  to  say  he  could  not  see  me. 
Through  the  Pandya,  however,  he  presented  me  with 
a  book  containing  his  portrait,  and  in  the  course  of 
the  afternoon,  his  Excellency,  for  many  years  Prime 
Minister,  BahavdinbhAi,  his  Highnesses  maternal  uncle, 
drove  over  to  see  me ;  a  fine  spangled,  broad-headed, 
and  cheerful  countenanced  man,  who  maintained  a 
lively  conversation  of  some  quarter  of  an  hour  through 
his  interpreter. 


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KATTIAWAR  PENINSULA.  8/ 

Thus  ended  my  visit  to  Gujerat,  to  see  Palitana 
and  Girndr,  both  of  which  seem  to  stand  before  me 
once  again  while  I  am  writing  of  them,  and  before 
4  a.m.  on  the  i8th  I  was  getting  ready  for  the  S.i6 
train  to  return  to  Ahmedadad. 

Strangely  different  were  two  scenes  I  witnessed  in 
the  train,  being  transferred  once  or  twice  at  the 
different  junctions.  On  starting,  I  was  confidentially 
called  aside  to  have  a  caution  given  me.  "  There  is 
a  high-caste  Brahmin  in  your  carriage  there  :  pray 
take  care  not  to  touch  him,  for  if  you  do,  he  will  have 
to  wash  seven  times."  When  I  got  in,  there  sat  my 
turbaned  friend,  legs  carefully  swaddled  up  along  the 
bench  on  his  side  ;  so  that  I  must  have  made  an 
effort  to  touch  even  a  corner  of  him  ;  and  he  took  no 
notice  of  my  entrance  whatsoever.  Presently  a  harsh 
cry  escaped  his  mouth,  and  brought  a  servant,  whom 
he  ordered  like  a  dog  to  bring  water  ;  and  this  the 
other  of  course  most  humbly  did.  When  I  left  him, 
quite  intact,  I  had  to  mount  another  carriage,  full  of 
laughing  and  talking  turbans  and  costumes  ;  and  one 
remarkably  jovial-looking  fellow  was  wearing  a  solid 
gold  band  round  his  neck.  Scarcely  had  we  moved 
on  but  scented  tea  was  offered  me,  and  an  English- 
speaking  companion  told  me  I  was  expected  to  join 
in  all,  and  that  this  was  the  Private  Secretary  to  the 
Maharajah  of  Bhaunagar — whom  I  had  met  at  Mr. 
Proctor  Sims'.  I  kept  pace  with  them  as  well  as  I 
could  for  as  far  as  they  travelled  with  me,  and 
arrived  at  Ahmedabad  at  last,  both  musing  and 
amused. 


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88  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

The  rest  of  the  day  and  the  next  I  again  spent  at 
and  about  Ahmedabad,  and  prepared  for  my  further 
progress  north,  Mount  Abfi  being  my  next  halting 
place ;  for  here  I  was  again  to  visit  architecture  by 
the  Jains,  before  passing  further  into  the  regions  of 
Islam,  through  Jeypur,  to  Agra  and  Delhi. 


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IX. 


Great  was  my  surprise  and  disappointment  on 
starting,  to  find  that  hence  all  the  way  to  Delhi 
the  great  main  line  from  Bombay  had  changed  at 
Ahmedabad  into  a  narrow-metre  gauge.  It  is  im- 
possible, of  course,  for  a  mere  chance  traveller  to 
criticize  this  mal-arrangement,  because  it  is  im- 
possible for  him  to  know  what  tyrannical  circum- 
stances may  have  existed  at  the  time  of  construction 
to  force  this  terrible  defect ;  but  he  is  quite  at 
liberty  to  express  his  infinite  surprise  and  disappoint- 
ment, and  indeed  personal  disgust.  However,  at  8.30 
p.m.  on  the  20th  I  entered  my  narrow  jolting 
carriage,  and  having  at  about  3  p.m.  accomplished 
our  115  miles,  I  found  myself  at  the  Abu  Road 
Station.  I  had  already  telegraphed  for  horses,  and 
found  all  ready  ;  and  a  ride  of  about  a  mile  along 
the  flat  brought  me  and  my  servant,  with  light 
'uggage,  to  the  bungalow.  The  food  in  this  case  was 
superior  to  an  impossible  chicken,  and  the  keeper 
was  not  a  shrivelled  old  man  ;  but  there  was  no  bed- 
stead whatever,  and  I  spread  my  coverings  upon  a 
cane  sofa.  At  early  morning  I  mounted  horse,  and 
we  rode  some  rather  tedious  distance,  still  along  the 
flat,  but  now  and  then  between  trees,  and  always 
with  the  wooded  mountain  close  before  us.  The 
moment  we  began  to  mount,  the  gorges  became 
extremely  picturesque,    and    forest  surrounded   us. 


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90  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

These  solitudes  as  usual  were  illustrated  by  a  num- 
ber of  large  curly-tailed  monkeys,  who  peered  out  of 
the  branches,  snatching  close  looks  at  us,  and  then 
scampering  back  into  their  hidings.  It  soon  became 
quite  evident  that  the  temples  I  was  about  to  visit 
had  been  built  on  a  very  romantic  site  indeed,  and  it 
was  not  till  I  had  mounted  4000  feet  through  the 
very  undulating  forest,  with  its  flowering  trees,  and 
covered  a  distance  of  some  fourteen  miles,  that  I 
reached  the  Rajputana  Hotel.  This  hotel  was  kept 
by  Sr.  CostaofGoa,  a  Portuguese,  of  course,  to  whom 
and  whose  hotel  I  can  offer  my  best  acknowledg- 
ments, and  with  whom  it  was  a  certain  pleasure  to 
indulge  in  his  language,  as  Fused  to  do  in  days  gone 
by.  The  scenery  was  rather  brown,  but  charming : 
in  the  green  season  it  must  be  more  so,  but 
curiously  enough,  and  unhappily,  the  district  is  then 
malarious.  The  hotel  is  small,  but  comfortable,  and 
mothers  and  wives  of  officers,  with  their  children, 
come  up  to  stay  from  time  to  time. 

Very  soon  after  my  arrival  two  other  travellers 
followed  me,  and  we  all  three  went  together  to  visit 
the  two  temples.  Outside  they  are  nothing,  but 
inside  they  are  everything.  Anything  more 
beautiful — anything  so  beautiful,  I  could  say — I  have 
never  seen.  They  are  called  the  Delwarra  Temples, 
and  Fergusson  says  that  the  more  modern  of  the  two 
was  built  by  the  same  two  brothers,  Tijpala  and 
Vastupala,  who  built  the  Triple  Temple  which  I 
had  noticed  at  Girnar.  All  hail  to  them  1  The  two 
interior  courts  are  parallelograms — one  measurement 
.  may  serve  for  both  in  general  description  :  140  feet 


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INTERIOR    Of    OELWARA    TEMPLE  :    MOUNT    ABU 


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MOUXT  ABU.  91 

by  90.  This  is  surrounded  by  a  double  peristyle. 
In  the  middle  is  the  cell,  and  in  front  of  this  cell  is  a 
porch — a  real  Jain  porch — which  baffles  all  photo- 
graphing and  description  in  its  cupolas  and  compli- 
cated perspective  beauties.  All  is  of  the  purest,  and 
quite  spotless  white  marble,  brought  from  some  great 
distance,  and  all  is  elaborately  ornamented ;  indeed, 
to  so  minute  an  extent  that  you  have  almost  to  look 
again  to  believe  it.  Before  recurring  to  the  porch  let 
me  add  that  these  double  peristyles  form  porticoes  to  a 
range  of  cells,  fifty-five  in  number,  and  in  each  of  these 
is  a  figure  of  the  Thirthanker,  or  Pilgrim  Saint,  to 
whom  the  temple  is  dedicated — Parswanatha.  At  the 
end  of  this  court  is  an  inner  gallery,  and  in  this  gallery 
there  are  carved  twelve  perfect  elephants  in  white 
marble  and  of  nearly  life-size. 

To  return  to  the  porch  :  it  is  composed  of  forty- 
eight  integral  pillars,  all  most  elaborately  carved,  and 
these  support  a  dome  and  pendant,  which  must  be 
seen,  and  seen  often,  to  be  at  all  comprehended.  My 
companions  were  not  less  rapt  than  I.  A  drawing 
in  Fergusson's  volume  exhibits  only  some  faint  show 
of  the  reality,  and  a  photograph  in  my  possession 
exhibits  some  little  more.  I  had  resolved  to  return 
and  reinspect  all  this  on  the  following  day,  of  which 
my  companions,  however,  had  no  intention.  But  when 
the  to-morrow  came,  I  really  felt  that  the  brain  had 
not  yet  had  time  to  digest  all  that  I  had  seen  the  day 
before.  I  may  seem  to  exaggerate  when  I  say  it 
required  a  longer  interval  than  twenty-four  hours 
between  two  repasts  of  such  wonder  and  beauty,  and 
to  my  great  regret  I  had  to  come  away  without  the 


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92  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS, 

satisfaction  of  a  second  visit,  and  to  content  myself 
with  another  chaff  with  the  monkeys.  Both  in  art 
and  nature  Mount  Abu  remains  a  leading  memory 
amidst  all  I  saw  in  my  three  years'  wanderings  ;  nor 
can  I  speak  of  nature  without  recalling  a  sunset  visit 
to  the  little  Nucki  Jalas,  or  Pearl  Lake,  close  by,  a 
circular  gem  of  blue  water  in  a  perfectly  harmonious 
setting  of  surrounding  mountains. 

On  the  morning  therefore  of  Friday,  the  22nd  of 
February,  I  rode  down  the  mountain,  witnessing 
some  grand  atmospheric  effects  in  the  early  light  ; 
hailed  by  many  monkeys,  and  longing  to  see  just  one 
tiger  in  the  safe  distance  lounging  through  the 
forest :  a  rare  occurrence  here. 

The  mail  train  for  Ajmir  did  not  leave  till  the  after- 
noon, and  the  run  of  190  miles  took  me  nearly  eleven 
hours;  so  that  it  was  not  till  after  two  in  the  morning 
that  I  found  myself  at  Mrs.  Rice's  Rajputana  Hotel. 
There  I  found  actually  tender  cold  roast  beef,  and 
beer,  and  bed.  I  came  full  of  complaints  of  my 
night's  journey  ;  for  though  the  Sojat  Road  Station 
had  an  asterisk  as  a  refreshment-room,  not  even  tea 
was  ready,  and  on  my  asking  for  a  biscuit  I  was 
offered  a  whole  new  tin  for  purchase.  I  saw  there 
was  a  certain  secret  amusement  mingled  with  Mrs. 
Rice's  sympathy,  which  I'next  day  learned  was  pro- 
voked by  the  fact  that  the  stout  individual  by  her 
side,  her  brother-in-law  (as  she  afterwards  told  me), 
to  whom  I  was  complaining,  was  the  very  contractor 
for  the  station.  Two  features,  I  will  here  observe, 
struck  me  in  this  Indian  railway  travelling.  The 
general  tea  and  feeding  stations  are  very  poor,  and  in 


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AJMIR.  93 

coming  into  stations,  beside  that  the  running  is  very 
moderate,  no  brakes  are  used,  but  the  train  is 
allowed  to  "  slow  "  in.  This  may  be  economical,  but 
it  is  very  tantalizing.  As  to  the  non-eating  and 
drinking,  I  daresay  it  has  grown  to  be  better,  as  was 
talked  of  when  I  was  in  India.  But  whether  at 
stations  or  hotels,  people  seem  to  me  to  have  become 
demoralized  into  swallowing  tough  meat  without 
knowing  it.  One  worthy  gentleman,  a  traveller  too, 
went  so  far  as  to  say  that  he  had  met  with  refresh- 
ment rooms  better  than  any  at  home.  He  must  have 
been  dreaming,  surely,  of  some  summer's  picnic  on 
the  peaks  of  Kanchinjunga.  One  other  striking 
feature  that  I  noted  all  through  my  railway  travelling 
was  the  multitudinous  rush  of  native  third-class 
passengers.  One  cannot  but  wonder  what  they  all 
have  to  do  here,  indeed,  among  a  race  that  easily 
lets  time  and  life  go  by.  On  a  fine  night,  too,  you 
will  find  them  lying  asleep  in  scores  outside  the 
entrance,  waiting  for  the  very  first  morning  train. 
Now,  if  railways  have  made  them  alert  among  them- 
selves in  all  things,  what  a  moralizer  is  the  Indian 
locomotive !  With  us,  he  has  surely  made  us 
restless,  and  when  any  given  epidemic  sweeps  off 
such  numbers  of  us,  as  has  lately  proved  to  be  the 
case,  is  not  this  a  result  of  nerves  insensibly  shaken 
by  an  almost  perpetual  rush  and  hurry  through 
existence  ?  The  atoms  of  wrought  iron,  they  say,  are 
brought  down  to  those  of  the  cast  metal  by  perpetual 
jarring.  May  not  something  of  a  similar  character 
occur  in  the  jarred  human  frame  ? 
I  remained  in  Ajmir  till  the  ist  of  March,  visiting 


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94  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS, 

more  than  once  the  Great  Mosque  and  its  majestic 
gateway,  where  "  the  Cufic  and  Togra  inscriptions  are 
interwoven  with  the  more  purely  architectural  decora- 
tions," the  effect  of  this  being  singularly  successful.  As 
you    stand  in  the  court  to  gaze  on  it,  however,  you 
might  feelwell  content  that  the  large  tree  was  outof  the 
way.     The  mosque  itself  is  a  wonderfully  well  pillared 
mosque,  and  this  again  is  due  to  the  Jains,  for  it  is 
one  of  their  converted  (or  perverted)  temples  :  i\\  the 
language  of  the  iconoclastic  intruders  the  heathen  or 
pagan    (i.e.  clownish)  shrine  was  redeemed    (that  is, 
stolen)  for  the  Faithful.      In  such  cases  the  course 
pursued  seems  to  be  to  destroy  the  centre  cell  and 
adapt  the  court  of  peristyle.     But  nothing  I  saw  in 
India  did  I  feel  could  for  a  moment  compare  with  the 
interiors  of  the  temples    at   Abu.      Ajmir  lies  in  a 
perfectly   flat   valley,   surrounded    by  abrupt   russet 
mountains  ;    and    there   are   several    very    pleasant 
drives  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.     You  may 
go   through   the  gardens  to  the  lake,  which  I   did 
twice.     Here  the  view  is  charming,  with  a  chateau  in 
the  centre  of  the  farthest  well-wooded  shore.     Again, 
the  views  on  the  Jeypur  road  are  striking,  with  fine 
tamarind  trees.      Again,  along  the  Pushgar  road  the 
scene  is  striking,  and  the  Mayo  College  and  grounds 
should  be  visited.     I  was  detained  at  Ajmir  waiting 
for  information  as  to  getting  to  Oudeypore,  but  what 
I  received  forced  me  to  abandon  that  desire.      So  I 
left  my  pleasant  hostess  and  hotel,  inscribing  these 
few  lines  in  her  Book  of  Visitors : — 

This  earthly  shrine, 
Though  not  divine, 


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JEYPUR.  95 

May  claim  of  travelling  youth  and  age 

An  oft-repeated  pilgrimage ; 

Where  needs  we  all  in  common  share 

Are  furnished  in  response  to  prayer ; 

The  reason  is  not  far  to  tell, — 

An  English  hostess  consecrates  the  Cell. 


It  required  between  six  and  seven  hours  on  this 
narrow-gauge  train  to  bring  me  over  a  distance  of 
seventy-four  miles  to  Jeypur,  where  I  arrived  at  seven 
o'clock  in  the  evening  of  the  1st  of  March,  to  find  a 
bungalow  under  a  plantation  of  trees,  with  good 
rooms  but  extremely  bad  food.  To  add  to  this 
disappointment — a  great  one  to  a  traveller — I  suffered 
want  of  rest  from  a  constant  barking  and  howling  of 
Pariah  dogs  all  night  long.  This  is  a  frequent 
nuisance  in  India.  Yet  do  not  pay  a  man  to  drive 
them  away,  for  this  only  means  that  he  barks  instead 
of  the  dogs. 

But  then  came  a  real  disappointment  indeed. 
I  found  the  Maharajah,  with  all  his  retinue, 
was  absent,  paying  a  visit  to  the  Viceroy  at 
Calcutta.  And  this  really  was  a  disappointment,  for 
Mr.  B.  M.  Malabari,  my  Parsee  friend  at  Bombay, 
had  given  me  a  letter  to  his  Highness's  private 
secretary,  and  I  had  hoped  for  an  interview,  as  at 
Palitana,  and  to  be  sprinkled  with  nectar  at  parting, 
by  another  Jove.  As  it  was,  I  really  did  not  care 
to  get  an  order  for  going  over  a  dreary  empty 
palace,  but  wandered,  moody,  in  the  gardens,  and 
saw  and  heard  the  tigers.  These  were  grand  animals 
truly ;   and  it   was    the    first    time    I  really  heard 


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96  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDIiRINGS. 

tigers  roar,  a  very  far  finer  voice  than  that  of  the 
h'on,  when  he  indulges  in  that  vocal  note  of  defiance, 
if  so  it  is  intended.  With  these  tigers  it  was 
doubtless  so,  and  fearful ;  for  the  attendant  was  pro- 
voking their  fine  open  mouths  all  together.  Rage 
among  these  noble  beasts  is  real  beauty  ;  in  certain 
other  animals  it  cannot  so  be  called. 

The  modern  city  of  Jcypur  I  found  remarkable  for 
its  flat,  wide,  and  straight  streets,  and  for  the  parti- 
cularly native  aspect  of  all  the  living  objects  that 
moved  about  in  them,  including  elephants  and 
camels.  Two  processions  particularly  attracted  my 
attention.  The  one  was  that  connected  with  infant 
marriage.  The  little  bridegroom,  I  suppose  about 
six  or  seven  years  old,  in  his  open  palanquin,  gorge- 
ously dressed,  and  correspondingly  attended,  was 
being  carried  to  and  fro  into  various  streets  on  a  visit 
(as  I  was  informed)  to  relations  and  friends,  notifying 
the  event  of  his  engagement,  and  as  he  thus  had  to 
make  many  turnings,  I  met  with  him  more  than 
once. 

The  other  was  most  peculiar.  It  was  a  very  long 
procession,  including,  if  I  remember  rightly,  camels, 
elephants,  and  horses,  of  a  certain  number,  and  in 
the  middle  there  came  a  very  curious-looking  object  : 
a  sort  of  carriage  completely  covered  over  with  a 
tent'Shaped,  tight  sheet,  tapering  to  the  top,  and 
resembling,  on  a  large  scale,  those  matted  baskets  in 
which  nurserymen  pack  pots  of  flowers,  or  small 
sucklings,  for  the  railway.  "What  on  earth  is 
that  ? "  "  It  is  the  wife  of  the  Maharajah,  taking  an 
airing."    Thus  was    the  imperious  cloking   up   ex- 


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jEYPUR.  gy 

plained,  for  vulgar  eyes  were  not  to  peer  within. 
Whether  the  "airing  "  object  was  truthfully  explained 
I .  know  not ;  her  Highness  might  have  been  on  a 
visit  only.  At  the  same  time  my  recollection  carried 
me  back  to  the  system  of  quiet  old  ladies  taking 
their  "airing"  many  years  ago  (say  at  Brighton)  in 
yellow  chariots,  with  the  windows  well  up,  and  the 
glasses  well  steamed  ;  not  for  the  pure  and  modest 
purpose  of  concealment,  but  in  order  to  avoid  the 
•*air"  which  they  had  expressly  come  out  to 
take. 

The  chief  excursion  from  the  flat  modern  capital 
is  to  Amber,  the  very  hilly  ancient  one.  And  at 
early  morning,  on  the  3rd  of  March,  I  started  with 
one  Phillips,  a  guide,  to  visit  the  abandoned  seat  of 
greatness,  nor  could  I  help  noticing  the  very  numer- 
ous flocks  of  the  small  Indian  crow  that  continually 
accompanied  us,  in  their  apparently  first  morning 
flight,  employed,  like  so  many  human  beings  are,  in 
providing  for  the  food  of  the  day.  As  we  approached 
Amber  I  noticed  temples,  or  dwellings,  one  after 
another,  on  the  left  side  of  the  road,  all  neglected — 
though  still  well  planted  by  the  hand  of  nature — 
melancholy  examples,  these,  of  desertion — all  empty, 
all  silent — their  *'own  sad  sepulchres."  At  length 
we  came  to  a  large  gateway,  and  a  large  elephant 
reclining.  Here  you  must  begin  the  ascent,  and  it 
must  be  upon  the  elephant,  and  therefore  on  his 
Majesty  I  mounted.  It  was  the  first  time  I  had 
ever  ridden  an  elephant,  and  I  shall  not  sigh  if  it 
be  the  last. 
No  greater  contrast  could  be  found  between  an  old 

H 


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98  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS, 

and  a  new  capital  than  appears  between  Amber  and 
Jeypur.  The  flatness  of  the  ground  of  the  new  city 
I  have  already  mentioned  :  the  old  city  is  almost  in  a 
gorge :  and  observe,  as  a  striking  feature,  the  wall  of 
this  old  city  which  you  catch  sight  of  at  once-^ 
clambering  the  abrupt  eminences  and  dipping  into 
the  abrupt  hollows,  in  infant  imitation  of  the  great 
wall  of  China.  The  shattered  palace  is  founded  on 
a  rock  and  seems  to  grow  out  of  it,  and  the  fort 
stands  high  above  it.  Below  is  a  large  lake,  and  in 
early  morning  the  reflection  on  the  water  creates  an 
imposing  picture.  Among  the  masses  of  former 
pride  you  may  wander  at  leisure,  and  enjoy  the 
various  prospects  that  present  themselves  from 
various  points  of  view,  and  aft:er  all  this  you  may 
easily  return  by  noon.  I  was  not  to  escape,  however, 
without  an  elephantine  photograph,  against  which  I 
much  protested,  and  the  fruits  of  which,  probably  un- 
successful on  account  of  that  indisposition  on  my  part, 
I  declined,  on  payment  of  a  small  outlay  as  previously 
agreed.  But  anyone  may  have  his  portrait  taken  on 
an  elephant,  if  he  likes  to  go  as  far  as  Amber  and 
bespeak  it. 

My  afternoon  was  spent  at  Jepyur  in  visiting  the 
museum  and  the  school  of  art  and  pottery  ;  and 
luckily  not  buying.  And  then  came  my  afternoon's 
drive  and  amusement  in  joining  the  Natives  in  feed- 
ing the  kites.  This  bird  is  sacred  at  Jeypur,  and 
abounds  in  hundreds.  The  kites  assemble  on  the 
house-tops  about  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  which 
is  the  general  hour  of  their  entertainment,  as  it  is  of 
hundreds  in  the  city. 


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JEYPUR.  99 

A  small  baked  ball  or  pellet  of  something,  the 
name  of  which  I  forget,  is  sold  in  very  cheap  abund- 
ance at  a  score  of  stores,  and  these  the  birds  are  very 
fond  of.  There  is  more  diversion  here  than  in  feed- 
ing the  pigeons  of  St.  Mark's,  and  there  is,  moreover, 
religion  in  the  fun.  Indeed,  any  naturalist  might  be 
scientifically  entertained  by  the  sight.  There  are 
most  diverting  contests  on  the  ground,  exhibiting 
immense  activity  of  wing  and  movement ;  there  are 
contests,  and  more  graceful  contests  in  the  air,  before 
the  well-thrown  ball  has  time  to  come  down  ;  some- 
times there  are  no  contests,  but  a  swooping  pair  of 
wings  catch  the  moving  atom  without  an  instant's 
pause  or  deviation  in  so  doing,  and  sail  with  it 
triumphantly  away.  The  power  and  activity  of  the 
wing  are,  as  I  say,  wonderfully  displayed  indeed,  and 
I  could  not  hold  the  entertainment  as  merely  childish. 
If  serious  faces  think  it  so,  then  there  is  Dryden's 
line  to  save  us  :  — 

"  Men  are  but  children  of  a  larger  growth.'' 

A  poet's  truth,  however,  is  too  often  sentimentally 
quoted  and  acknowledged  with  a  sigh ;  but  the 
individual  application  of  it  is  never  so  much  as 
thought  of.  Never  care:  if  either  ofyougo  to  Jeypur 
you  will  be  found  feeding  the  kites. 

When  I  was  leaving  the  bungalow  the  keeper  was 
very  anxious  that  I  should  report  well  of  the  food. 
The  secret  was  that  he  held  it  of  the  Maharajah,  who 
was  understood  to  be  very  strict  on  the  subject  of  the 
good  treatment  of  guests.  I  was  informed  that  this 
man  made  out  his   own   bills   to  his   landlord,  and 

H  2 

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ICX)  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

squeezed  the  travellers.  Certain  it  is  that  in  conse- 
quence of  my  most  decided  protests  the  food  was 
suddenly  and  wonderfully  changed,  while  the  tariff 
remained  the  same.  This  was  a  plea  by  confession, 
and  I  was  induced  to  enter  "  good  "  without  marking 
the  date,  though  two  patient  travellers  had  thanked 
me  for  the  alteration  of  affairs. 

I  see  by  Murray's  Guide  of  189 1  that  there  is  now 
an  *'  excellent ''  hotel,  but  I  mention  the  state  of 
affairs  as  I  found  it,  because  it  very  much  exemplifies 
a  feature  in  travelling  through  India.  The  whole 
mass  of  the  inhabitants  live  in  a  totally  different 
manner  from  Europeans ;  Americans  of  course  in- 
cluded. You  seem  to  move  about  in  narrow  tracks. 
You  really  have  not  the  least  affinity  with  your  sur- 
roundings. Their  ways  and  thoughts  and  entire 
modes  of  life  are  as  different  as  their  language  or 
costume,  and  of  affinity  there  can  be  none.  You 
are  always  an  outsider — not  from  mere  counter  feel- 
ings, but  as  belonging  to  totally  different  races, 
and  coming  from  a  totally  different  part  of  the 
globe.  This  sense  of  isolation — not  by  any  means 
necessarily  inimical — grows  upon  you  at  every  step. 
Even  though  you  know  that  you  belong  to  the  Ruling 
Power,  you  are — as  all  your  conventionally  known 
peoples  are — "a  stranger  in  the  land,"  an  absolutely 
incongruous  atom,  a  winding  rivulet  running  between 
banks,  through  a  vast  indifferent  expanse.  As  travel- 
ling increases  food  and  rest  will  of  course  gain  ground, 
but  as  I  found  things  then,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say 
that  travelling  in  India  was  often  very  trying. 


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X. 


1  WAS  now  to  leave  for  Agra  Fort,  and  the  moment 
you  see  this  name,  your  thoughts  will  spring  to  what 
we  call — for  shortness  as  usual — the  Taj  ;  and,  in  re- 
sponse, perhaps  I  ought  to  make  a  wide  search  to 
see  what  so  many  others  have  written  about  it,  and 
then  try  to  write  something  yet  more  striking.  But 
I  am  not  going  to  do  anything  of  the  kind.  I  am 
quietly  going  to  speak  for  myself. 

I  left  Jeypur  by  the  T.i'j  p.m.  mixed  train,  on 
Monday,  the  4th  of  March,  and  we  arrived  at  Agra 
Fort  about  8  a.m.  on  the  Tuesday,  the  distance  being 
145  miles.  And  as  we  rolled  into  the  station  I 
caught  the  first  sight  of  the  domes  and  minarets  of  the 
far-famed  building,  which  from  that  point  presented 
only  a  sort  of  confusion  of  milk-white  excrescences. 
This  appearance  I  called  to  mind  afterwards.  It 
was  not  the  first  object  of  my  curiosity  on  leaving 
Lawrie's  Hotel,  for  I  had  letters  to  two  Pandits  whom 
I  wished  to  see  at  starting,  and  this  led  me  towards 
the  Fort,  which  I  took*  the  immediate  opportunity  of 
visiting,  and  descriptions  of  all  the  remarkable  build- 
ings in  which  are  in  every  guide  book.  Here,  of 
course,  is  the  renowned  white  marble  Moti  Musjid,  or 
Pearl  Mosque,  which  occupies  one  end  of  a  large 
oblong  court,  presenting  its  front  in  the  shape  of  an 
open  corridor  of  seven   saracenic  arches,  in   triple 


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102  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

order.  Through  these  it  is  very  pleasing  to  wander. 
But  I  was  impressed  with  a  certain  want  of  depth 
compared  with  the  width,  and  though  the  symmetry 
of  the  building  would  not  admit  of  a  fourth  inner 
row  of  seven,  the  centre  row  being  constructed  as 
central,  the  impression  of  shallowness  seemed  to  be 
disappointing.  While  engaged  in  examining  all  the 
striking  features  in  the  Fort,  I  caught  sight  of  a  view 
of  the  Taj  in  the  distance,  which  was  not  pleasing. 
The  remarkable  whiteness  of  the  jumbled  domes  and 
minarets  from  that  unfair  distance  was  mixed  up 
with  the  back  of  one  of  the  red  sandstone  buildings 
that  flank  it  on  both  sides,  and  of  which  I  shall  speak 
further  on.     The  river  Jumna  rolled  nobly  below. 

After  the  Fort  I  went  at  once  to  see  the  Taj.  This 
word  I  found  means  crown,  and  the  full  title  Taj 
Mahal  can  mean  nothing  else  than  Crown  Palace.  I 
was  driven  to  the  large,  handsome  red  sandstone  gate 
that  forms  the  entrance  to  the  garden,  and,  standing 
under  it,  I  looked  down  the  long  walk  with  dark  trees 
on  either  side,  and  beheld  the  delicate  and  exquisite 
building,  now  so  familar  grown  in  photographs  and 
other  representations.  The  effect  of  this  picture  is 
beyond  dispute,  and  there  can  be  nothing  else  that  at 
all  resembles  it.  In  its  ivory  whiteness  it  scarcely 
even  seems  to  have  a  perceptible  outline.  The  mosque 
that  I  had  seen  at  Aurungabad,  too  like  it  in  a  cer- 
tain sense  to  leave  a  doubt  in  any  ordinary  observer's 
mind  that  it  had  been  built  in  imitation,  was  yet  not 
worthy  of  a  second  or  third  thought. 

The  afternoon  in  which  I  first  saw  the  Taj  was  pro- 
pitious, and  fitted  for  the  occasion,  and  the  building. 


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AGI^A,  103 

in  all  its  toilet  delicacy,  looked  (as  I  have  hinted) 
as  if  it  might  have  been  made  of  ivory.  It  cannot 
be  robbed  of  its  undoubted  peculiar  attractiveness  in 
these  respects,  but  then  these  very  features  leave  it 
quite  naked  of  all  the  halo  that  surrounds  old  Indian 
tombs  and  temples  in  general.  It  is  an  adorned  and 
draped-out  beauty  among  the  reverend  aged :  more 
for  the  showing  of  its  own  self  than  for  awakening 
associations.  After  I  had  recovered  from  the  first 
impression,  two  facts  weighed  much  with  me,  in 
which  I  felt  confirmed  in  after  visits.  In  the  first  place, 
how  necessary  it  is,  in  order  to  really  see  this  build- 
ing to  perfection,  to  confine  oneself  to  this  one  view 
of  it  from  under  the  gateway  ;  and  secondly,  how 
almost  entirely  it  owes  its  extreme  beauty  to  the 
very  delicate  material  with  which  it  is  outwardly 
adorned,  and  to  the  very  delicate  manner  in  which 
that  material  has  been  put  together.  Had  the  Taj, 
as  it  stands,  been  composed  of  red  sandstone,  or  even 
of  white  marble  commonly  put  together,  would  it 
have  attracted  very  special  attention  ?  And  I  think 
you  have  only  to  look  at  the  engraving  of  the  build- 
ing, with  all  the  hard  outlines,  in  Fergusson's  volume, 
to  persuade  yourself  of  this.  Can  anyone,  looking  at 
that  engraving,  call  it  an  enchanting  structure }  The 
architectural  formation  is  of  the  simplest.  Fergusson 
himself  correctly  describes  the  form.  It  is  "  a  square 
of  186  feet  with  the  corners  cut  off  to  the  extent  of 
33  feet  9  inches.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  large  central 
dome  and  four  campaniles,"  and  that  is  the  whole 
description  needed  to  explain  its  form.  It  cannot 
compare  in  complicated   details  with   other  tombs, 


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104  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERING^. 

taking  for  example  that  of  Akbar's  Tomb,  Secundra, 
close  by.  Nor  is  it  left  dependent  only  on  its  own 
intrinsic  delicacy.  "  It  would  lose  half  its  charm," 
writes  Fergusson,  "  if  it  stood  alone."  But  he  does 
not  quite  define  what  he  means.  To  my  unauthori- 
tative vision  its  beauty  greatly  depends  on  cfose  con- 
trasts. On  walking  down  and  looking  round,  I 
observed  what  made  me  feel  quite  convinced  that  the 
designer  or  designers  had  mainly  intended  to  rely  on 
texture,  set  off  by  contrast,  for  the  general  effect. 
There  is  a  grouping  on  the  spot  What  is  the  mean- 
ing of  these  two  flanking  red  sandstone  structures, 
which  intrude  on  you  when  you  visit  the  spot  itself? 
They  are  most  evidently  foils,  in  order  to  show  off  the 
exquisite  delicacy  of  the  now  mausoleum  to  perfection. 
This  object  also  seemed  to  me  to  be  particularly 
carried  out  in  the  structure  of  the  four  handsome 
minarets  that  adorn  the  corners  of  the  beautiful  white 
marble  platform,  of  eighteen  feet  in  height,  on  which 
the  Taj  stands.  For  look  attentively  at  the  Taj. 
You  have  to  do  so  attentively  if  you  desire  to  detect 
the  joinings  ;  nay,  there  is  even  quite  a  toilet  festoon- 
ing run  round  the  centre  dome.  Now,  observe  the 
minarets.  Not  only  are  the  joinings  visible,  but  to 
my  own  eye  they  are  purposely  and  markedly 
emphasized,  as  in  contrast.  I  found  it  impossible 
not  to  be  struck  with  this  antagonism,  of  which 
there  is  nothing  in  Fergusson's  lines.  Thus  here, 
and  altogether,  it  seemed  to  me  that  the  main  reliance 
of  the  architect  was  on  material  and  refined  workman- 
ship. Of  course  proportion  was  held  in  view,  and 
there  is  a  certain  indefinable  sweetness  in  the  whole 


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AGRA.  105 

form,  as  viewed  from  the  gate,  that  may  be  attribu- 
table to  this  feature,  as  also  the  latent  fact  that  the 
dome  stands  higher  than  the  Kutub  at  Delhi.  But 
what  a  pity  it  is,  I  could  not  help  thinking,  that  the 
white  marble  trellis-work  through  which  the  subdued 
light  is  admitted  to  the  interior  is  carved  in  squares. 
In  the  distance  these  bear  the  appearance  of  mere 
common  casements. 

Of  the  interior  I  have  little  to  say  :  the  light  is  of 
course  subdued,  as  is  the  case  in  any  other  interior 
darkly  lighted.  The  architecture  cannot  be  remark- 
able from  the  form  ;  the  carvings  and  the  jewels  are 
mere  adjuncts,  and  the  echo  is  merely  sharp  and 
rapid  because  the  space  is  confined.  Yet  here  an 
American  found  them  **  float  so  deliciously"  that  he 
"  heard  them  after  they  were  silent."  They  who  have 
been  to  Pisa  know  what  vocal  echoes  are. 

After  a  good  walk  round,  admiring  all  the  wonderful 
lacework  detail  on  the  surfaces,  I  mounted  into  one 
of  the  minarets.  But  if  I  were  asked  to  commit  myself 
to  what  I  thought  the  exact  sppt  on  which  to  stand 
for  the  best  view  of  the  fantastically  delicate  struc- 
ture, I  should  say,  stand  under  the  centre  of  the 
crown  of  the  gateway,  so  as  to  make  that  a  sort  of 
framework,  and  so  that  the  eye  may  just  catch  an 
almost  insensible  tinge  of  the  red  ;  then  look  down 
the  dark  avenue,  again  a  foil,  or  artistic  contrast, 
on  the  virgin,  white  below.  White,  white,  white — 
white  it  must  be  kept.  As  to  the  line  of  fountains 
and  their  ugly  spouts,  they  are  an  ugly  interrup- 
tion. 

There  seems  to  be  some  little  confusion  about  the 


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I06  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

date  of  the  building  in  reference  to  the  death  of 
Mumtaz-i-Mahl,  for  whose  tomb  the  building  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  designed.     But  Fergusson  and 
others  treat  it  as  originally  intended,  according  to  the 
custom  of  the  Moghuls,  for  a  "Bara  Durri,"  or**  Palace 
of  Pleasure/'  during  the  life  of  the  monarch,  and  for 
his  tomb  after  death,  so  that  it  should  thenceforth  be 
sacred.     Some  suppose  that  after  the  designs  were 
accepted,  and  the  garden  perhaps  already  marked 
out,  the    empress  died,  and   that  thereupon   Shah 
Jehan  consecrated  it  to  her  tomb  at  once,  so  that  it 
was  really  never  used,  as  would  otherwise  have  been 
the  case,  as  a  "  Bara  Durri."     What  is  certain  is  that 
when  Muntaz-i-Mahl  died  she  was  no  beautiful  young 
woman,  for  she  died  in  child-bed  with  her  eighth  off- 
spring, in  1630.    And  read  Dryden's  drama.  This  sad 
catastrophe  would  appear  to  have  crushed  the  first 
usual  dedication  of  the  building  by  interposing  the  last. 
After  this   first   inspection  the   next   day   I   had 
a   visit    from   my    two     Pandits.      Pandit    Peyaray 
Krishna  came    in   the  morning,    and  after  a   long 
and  interesting  conversation,  very  much  in  the  tone 
of  my  friend  at  Benares,  and  after  discussing  many 
subjects  on   which   I   could    not   offer    an  opinion, 
he   wound   up  with  the   more   practical   matter   of 
recommending  to  me  a  most   excellent  coachman, 
with  whom  I  agreed  to  go  to  Futtehpore  Sikri,  start- 
ing at  seven  o'clock  the  next  morning.    The  after- 
noon I  spent  in  visiting  what  might  be  called  the  very 
opposite  of  the  Taj  Mahal,  and  what  I  have  already 
referred  to— the  complicated  and  elaborate  red  sand- 
stone tomb  of  the  mighty  Akbar.     It  is  impossible  to 


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AGieA.  107 

wander  over  a  structure  of  this  magnitude  and  detail 
without  some  slight  feeling  of  the  ridiculous  ming- 
ling with  the  marvellous,  if  it  be  admitted  that  such 
structures  were  meant  only  in  the  first  place  for 
retreat  and  recreation  during  life,  but  mainly  for 
ever  after  to  be  consecrated  to  the  funeral  and  re- 
pose of  the  departed  founder.  Life,  as  life,  is  entitled 
to  its  poor  pleasures,  unless  there  is  a  grievously  con- 
tradictory one  elsewhere,  equally  proceeding  from  the 
same  source,  as  interpreted  by  sour  professors ;  but 
what  can  the  mere  dead  want  with  such  tombs  as  these  ? 
Is  there  not  something  ridiculous  in  the  pyramids  ? 

In  the  evening  Pandit  Jagan  Nath  favoured  me 
with  a  call.  Him  I  found  far  more  restless  and  im- 
patient than  either  of  those  with  whom  I  had  con- 
versed. He  lent  me,  for  reading,  an  English  pamphlet 
written  by  a  lawyer  in  Madras,  whose  name  I  find  I 
did  not  take,  the  literary  style  of  which  I  cannot  say  I 
much  admired,  and  the  somewhat  snarling  dislike  of 
Lord  DuflFerin  which  it  evinced  made  me  very  much 
mistrust  his  motives.  The  Pandit  spoke  of  himself, 
as  I  understood  him,  as  being  of  the  Congress 
Party,  and  I  remember  asking  him  what  general 
combination  and  understanding  could  exist  among 
them  all,  when  they  could  not  even  sit  down  to  their 
common  food  or  modes  of  life  together,  but  must  all 
group  themselves  into  separate  knots,  according  to 
their  castes.  Of  course  he  saw  no  difficulty  in  unity 
thus  disunited,  or  united  only  for  a  while  against 
something  of  supposed  common  grievance  to  them 
all,  the  disappearance  of  which  might  set  them  all 
wrangling   one  with  another.     But  he  was  a  very 


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I08  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

communicative  man,  and  spoke  sincerely  of  his  dis- 
content, and  as  he  was  suffering  from  want  of  proper 
spectacles,  I  immediately  wrote  to  Mr.  Adie  to  send 
him  a  pair,  and  these  I  trust  he  has  received  safely, 
and  without  erroneously  suspecting  any  small  latent 
allusion  to  his  mental  vision. 

At  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  March 
the  two-horse  g4ri  came,  and  I  had  every  reason  to 
thank  the  Pandya  for  his  recommendation.  Starting 
at  7  a.m.,  I  was  driven  splendidly  both  ways,  with 
one  change  of  horses,  over  the  twenty-two  miles.  I 
entered  the  great  abandoned  city  walls  soon  after 
nine  o'clock,  and,  quite  guiltless  of  any  intention  to 
insult  the  dead,  I  suddenly  found  myself  in  a  large 
court,  being  landed  at  the  Ddk  Bungalow,  which 
occupied  nothing  less  than  the  Record  Office  of  the 
mighty  Moguls,  and  which  I  was  about  to  defile  by 
ordering  an  unbeliever's  vulgar  breakfast.  If  we  are 
to  indulge  in  mournful  sentiment  upon  departed 
greatness, 

"  And  arts  the  splendid  wrecks  of  former  pride," 

how  coarse  all  this  present  sort  of  proceeding  seems. 
The  glory  of  Futtehpore  Sikri,  says  Fergusson, 
is  its  mosque ;  and  there  is  no  difficulty  in  assenting 
to  this.  While  breakfast  was  preparing,  I  went  to 
view  its  great  southern  gateway.  As  it  stands  on 
rising  ground  and  is  approached  by  many  steps,  its 
vast  height  and  volume  seem  something  overpower- 
ing ;  but  at  the  same  time  it  is  difficult  to  find  any 
standing-place  whence  to  obtain  a  really  good  view ; 
and  this  defect  a  second  gaze  did  not  help  me  to 


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FUTTEHPORE  SIKRh  IO9 

remedy.      This  gateway  certainly   overpowers   the 
mosque,  but  Mr.  Keene  says  that  it  was  built  after- 
wards, not  as  belonging  to  the  mosque,  but  as  a 
triumphal   arch.      The   mosque   nevertheless    is    in 
itself  difficult  to  surpass.     But  what  a  grand  com- 
plicated mass  of  red  sandstone  buildings  altogether 
IS   this   Futtehpore    Sikri.     On   returning  from  the 
mosque,  and  before  sitting  down,  I  wandered  alone, 
fancying  to    lose  myself  among  the  long  corridors 
and  colonnades  of  the  large  group  of  buildings.    And 
after  breakfast  again  I  wandered ;  and  again  I  say, 
what  an  elaborate  and  varied  mass  of  buildings  it  all 
is.     How  much  forced  labour   was  here  employed, 
and   how   many   lives   sacrificed?     Want  of  water 
caused   its  abandonment,  and  want  of  water  had 
existed  from  the  beginning.    How  strange,  then,  that 
this  site  should  have  been  chosen.     In  a  scene  like 
this  you  are  bewildered,  and  perhaps  rather  wish  to 
be  5*0.     "  Futtehpore  Sikri/'   writes  Fergusson,  "  is  a 
romance  in  stone."     If  I  should  specially  mark  any 
one  building  it  would  be  what  is  called  The  House 
of  Birbal's  Daughter,  which  seemed  to  me  to  com- 
bine, in  a  very  singular  manner,  the  cyclopean  and 
the   elegant.     Once  more  then  through  those  long 
red   colonnades;  and  then   back   to   Agra,   passing 
many  carts    and   waggons   laden   with    red    sand- 
stone grindstones.     It  is,  indeed,  the  material  of  the 
country. 

As  I  was  going  to  Gwalior  on  the  following  day. 
Pandit  Jagan  Nath  very  kindly  called  in  the  even- 
ing, and  brought  me  a  letter  to  his  friend,  the  Chief 
Justice  there,  A.  Srinivasa  Row,  B.A.,  which  I  found 


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no  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/NGS. 

to  be  of  infinite  service,  and  at  four  o'clock  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  8th  of  March  I  left  for  Gwalior  by 
the  Itarsi  line  of  the  G.I. P.,  and  arrived  in  four  hours. 
But,  before  departing,  I  had  spent  the  morning  by 
the  special  invitation  of  the  Pandit  Peyaray  Krishna  ; 
I  had  visited  him,  and  gone  over  his  new  tan-yard 
with  him.  Here  I  was  struck  by  his  informing  me 
that  his  fellow-religionists  voted  him  an  outsider, 
because,  possessing  the  Janao,  or  Three  Threads,  he 
was  going  into  trade.  I  may  here  remark  that  the 
tan-yard  was  close  outside  the  precincts  of  the  Taj 
Mahal ;  and  that  the  same  naked  and  confused  look 
of  the  white  domes  and  minarets  that  I  have  before 
remarked  on,  struck  me  here  again. 

On  arriving  at  Gwalior  I  was  driven  to  the  large 
new  and  handsome  bungalow  built  by  the  Maharajah 
for  the  convenience  of  travellers.  But  as  it  was 
totally  unprotected  by  anything  like  a  tree,  all  the 
upper  rooms  were  ovens.  Let  anyone  who  tele- 
graphs for  a  room,  add  "  ground  floor."  Permission 
to  see  the  Fort  was  readily  given,  and  on  the  morning 
of  the  9th  of  March  I  called  on  the  Chief  Justice, 
who  received  me  with  all  courtesy,  and  ordered  his 
carriage  for  me  to  drive  round  the  town.  This  was 
a  particularly  interesting  excursion,  for  the  day  was 
devoted  as  a  religious  holiday  in  honour  of  the  God 
Shiva ;  and  I  scarcely  think  that  one  traveller  out  of 
a  hundred  ever  saw  him  worshipped  in  the  startling 
form  I  twice  witnessed.  To  see  the  Fort  I  had 
again  to  mount  an  elephant,  up  and  down,  nor  do  I 
carry  with  me  a  memory  of  any  very  striking  feature 
outside  architectural  curiosities,  concerning  which  I 


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GWALIOR.  II  r 

am  content  to  leave  Mr.  Fergusson  uncontradicted. 
There  are  many  things  highly  interesting  to  the  artist 
which  are  "  caviare  to  the  general." 

I  regretted  having  been  induced  to  visit  the  tomb 
of  Mohammed  Ghans,  for  it  is  in  a  most  discoloured 
and  neglected  state,  and  did  not  arouse  the  slightest 
interest  in  me.  Indeed,  I  think  it  is  a  great  mistake 
to  be  making  a  point  of  gaping  at  everything.  It 
spoils  the  eye  and  confuses  the  memory,  and  emanates 
from  mere  childish  curiosity  to  see,  and  to  be  able 
to  answer  "  Did  you  see  ?  "  It  is  sometimes  a  luxury 
to  be  able  to  say  "  No." 

One  curiosity  this  driver  did  incite  in  me  :  that  of 
testing  how  bad  horse,  gdri,  and  driver  could  all  be, 
and  yet  get  on  without  falling  all  to  pieces.  It  was 
worse  than  Calcutta,  but  it  suited  with  the  tomb. 

On  Sunday  morning,  March  loth,  I  took  the 
early  train  to  Agra,  and  on  that  evening  I  went  to 
see  the  Taj  by  moonlight  The  effect  on  the  side 
was  far  greater  than  that  on  the  front,  for  the  angle 
of  light  did  not  fall  propitiously  upon  the  latter  ; 
and  this,  I  suspect,  has  been  the  cause  of  mute  dis- 
appointment in  many  cases.  On  the  side  the  bright- 
ness was  almost  intense,  and  with  the  foil  of  the  red 
sandstone  structure,  as  I  stood  in  its  eye-protecting 
shadow,  the  Taj  seemed  almost  like  frosted  silver. 


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XL 


At  half-past  ten  on  the  night  of  the  nth  I 
started  for  Delhi,  and  was  uncomfortably  delayed 
for  more  than  an  hour  at  the  Tundla  Station, 
about  fifteen  miles  on  the  road.  At  last  the  train 
arrived,  and  being  almost  dead  tired,  I  made  for  my 
first-class  carriage,  in  all  such  of  which  I  had  hitherto 
managed  to  find  myself  alone,  or  nearly  so.  But  in 
this  case  there  was  but  one  such  carriage,  and  I 
found  three  in  it  already.  Still  they  might  have 
been  three  small  or  moderates,  but  they  were  three 
enormous  ecclesiastics.  Being  French,  I  soon  found 
out  that  the  oldest  was  a  bishop,  and  the  two  were  of 
course  priests.  We  were  all  very  polite  to  one  an- 
other, though  we  were  rather  crowded,  which  therefore 
made  our  politeness  doubly  laudable ;  and  while  re- 
freshments were  going  on  between  them,  though  of 
something  not  exactly  savoury;  I  lay  along  my  seat 
undisturbed.  But,  when  their  own  lying  down  came 
to  pass,  I  confess  my  terrors  were  awakened.  These 
carriages  contain  four  beds  at  need.  The  two  seats 
run  sidewise  and  are  adjustable  ;  but  in  case  of  need 
(as  in  this  case),  two  more  above  them  can  be  let 
down  on  chains,  thus  making  room  for  four ;  and 
that  is  the  style  throughout  the  railways.  The 
bishop  was  the  first  a-bed,  opposite  to  nle  ;  and,  in 
spite  of  my  secret  prayer,  by  far  th$  largest  and  heavi- 


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DELHI.  113 

est  of  the  two  other  divines  cast  his  eyes  upon  the 
berth  suspended  above  me.  Allowing  for  the  ex- 
aggeration which  panic  always  paints  for  itself,  I  am 
still  quite  sure  that  the  chains  groaned  and  the  bed 
trembled,  while  my  own  heart  beat.  These  sounds, 
however,  soon  subsided  into  long-noted  snoring,  and 
somewhat  before  we  arrived  at  Delhi  the  carriage 
was  safely  delivered  of  the  three.  Happy  was  I 
when  the  creakings  of  the  descent  subsided.  As  the 
sword  of  Damocles  never  fell,  so  was  I  not  crushed 
by  divinity. 

Arriving  safe  at  early  morning,  I  was  driven  to 
the  Northbrook  Hotel,  which  I  at  once  declined  to 
patronize,  and  sought  shelter  in  "  The  Grand,"  well 
situated,  and  very  fairly  conducted.  But  what 
strikes  me  in  all  these  Indian  cities^  as  regards  the 
European  quarters  (so  to  call  them),  is  the  distance 
that  lies  between  the  various  buildings — the  native 
quarters  being  all  so  crowded.  Every  shop,  for 
example,  occupies  a  separate  house,  and  between  the 
tailor  and  the  draper  there  is  a  long  drive.  Though 
I  mention  this  here,  I  do  not  know  that  Delhi  thus 
struck  me  more  than  other  places  ;  for  the  observa- 
tion is  of  general  application. 

The  historical  associations  with  Delhi  are  indeed 
fearful.  Carry  your  memory  back  to  the  days  of 
Nadir  Shah,  and  then  bring  it  back  quickly  to  1857. 
Speaking  of  this,  latter  date,  surely  we  may  say  it 
needs  not  fields  of  hundreds  of  thousands  to  make 
a  war  of  giants.  My  first  visit  was  to  the  Ridge, 
where  all  is  quiet  now.  But  the  Mutiny  Memorial 
is  there^  mute  but  speaking.     Read  as  much  of  its 

I 


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114  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

inscriptions  as  you  please,  and  ascend  it  for  the  view, 
and  fancy  all  that  was  going  on  while  we  were  at 
home  in  quiet.  From  the  middle  of  May  till 
the  middle  of  September  the  storm  and  tempest 
of  siege  and  assault  were  raging,  and  mutinous 
Delhi  at  last  succumbed  to  British  valour.  The 
scene  is  very  striking  from  the  Ridge,  and  the  drive 
occupies  a  very  pleasant  afternoon. 

The  next  day  I  devoted  to  visiting  that  strange 
towering  individuality  called  the  Kutb  or  Kutab 
(both  of  which  appeared  to  be  corruptions)  Minar — 
which  word  is,  of  course,  the  large  of  Minaret.  A 
more  extraordinary  structure  than  this,  or  so  extra- 
ordinary a  one  as  this,  it  would  be  difficult  to 
conceive  of.  If  it  is  not  a  physical  incorporation 
of  the  spirit  of  pride,  what  is  it  ?  And  a  yet  larger  one, 
for  the  mere  purpose  of  out-topping  it,  was  begun, 
but  the  builder  was  not  able  to  finish.  I  could  not 
divest  myself,  while  gazing  on  it,  of  something  of 
the  sentiment  of  the  ridiculous.  This  much  said, 
the  structure  must  be  appreciated.  It  stands  238  or 
242  feet  high,  and  tapers  from  a  diameter  of  some 
forty-seven  or  forty-eight  feet  at  its  base,  to  scarcely 
nine  feet  at  the  top,  and  it  consists  of  five  storeys. 
According  to  Fergusson  it  was  even  once  some 
twenty  feet  higher.  Each  storey  is  ornamented 
with  a  balcony  that  protrudes  very  handsomely. 
The  depth  and  outlines  of  the  moulding  show  how 
well  the  builders  understood  the  effects  of  light  and 
shade  and  of  variety,  and,  in  its  own  character, 
this  Minar  is  held  to  stand  alone  in  our  small 
world. 


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DELHI.  1 1 S 

The  Iron  Pillar,  dilated  on  by  Fergusson,  must  not 
be  overlooked,  nor  is  very  likely  to  be  so ;  nor  indeed, 
is  the  Mosque — an  evident  converted  Jain  temple. 
Mark  also  the  large  arch,  reminding  one  of  Ajmir. 
Various  tombs  are  visited  on  the  way  back,  some 
worth  seeing  and  some  not,  but  all  somewhat  causing 
confusion  of  memory  and  impression. 

The  whole  of  the  next  day  I  devoted  to  the  Fort 
and  the  Jumma  (Friday)   Musjid.     With  this  latter 
I  was  not  so  much  impressed  as  I  was  with  others. 
But  as    regards  the  Palace  in  the  Fort,  as  it  was 
originally  built  by  the  renowned  Shah  Jahan,  it  is 
difficult  to  understand  that  everything  you  now  see 
belonged  once  to  that  Unity.     There  is  now  a  total 
want  of  connection,  and  instead  of  finding  yourself 
passing  through  and  through  corridors   and   courts 
from  one  great  feature  to  another,  all  this  effect  has 
been    destroyed,  and    you   pass   to    mere    separate 
structures.     In    his  volume   there   is   an   admirable 
general    plan    of  what   Fergusson    calls    "perhaps 
the  most  magnificent  palace  in  the  world,"  among 
the  features  of  which  figures  the  fantastic  Moti  Mus- 
jid, very  small  in  proportion  to  the  other  arrange- 
ments, but  probably  intended  (as   in  more  modern 
instances)  for  exclusive  Royal  worship.     But  among 
all  the  buildings  that  which  most  drew  my  attention, 
and  most  rests  on  my  memory,  was  the  Diwan-i-Khas, 
or  Private  Hall  of  Audience.     This   Diwan-i-Khas 
is  erected  on  its  own  marble  base,  some  eight  feet 
high,  and  consists  of  a  large  oblong  assembly  room, 
all  in  white  marble,  and  formerly  intensely  adorned  ; 
and  instead  of  being  walled  in,  it  is  marked  out  by  a 

1  2 


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lie  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

double  row  of  integral  peculiar-shaped  pillars, 
verging  into  arches  on  the  roof,  so  that  as  you 
stand  in  the  centre  you  look  through  and  through 
a  wonderful  perspective  of  pillars  on  all  sides. 

With  this  much  said,  I  leave  you,  if  you  go  there, 
to  wander  about  as  you  will,  and  meanwhile  to 
accompany  me  to  see  the  Golden  Temple  at 
Amritsar.  But  there  is  a  distance  of  316  miles,  and 
starting  at  noon  on  Friday,  the  15th  of  March,  I 
arrived  at  seven  the  next  morning,  having  in  the 
daytime  passed  through  vast  streets  of  the  most  beau- 
tifully growing  wheat.  Will  it  tempt  you  to  make 
the  journey  if  I  tell  you  that  strawberries  were  offered 
at  the  Delhi  Station  ? 


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GC 

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XII. 

What  you  have  to  visit  at  Amritsar  is  the  Golden 
Temple,  and  what  I  was  most  fortunate  in  hitting 
off,   by  pure  accident,  was  the    celebration  of  the 
Feast    called  "Holi."    This   golden  temple   stands 
in  the  midst  of  a  large  pool  or  tank  (as  it  is  called) 
of  pure    water,   carefully    edged    with    stone,    and 
called  the   Fool  of  Immortality  ;   such,  indeed,  ac- 
cording to  Murray  ([891),   is  the  meaning  of   the 
word   Amritsar.      It  stands    on    its   own  platform, 
sixty-five   feet    square,    and    is    approached    by    a 
long  marble   causeway,   following  the  level  of  the 
water,  and  constructed  of  white  marble.    The  struc- 
ture   inside  and   out  is  overwhelming  with  golden 
eccentricity  and  variegated  decoration.    And  to  all 
this  was  added  moving  crowds  of  worshippers,  on 
whom  I  looked  down  from  above.     They  were  all 
crowding,  moving,  praying  and  talking  together,  like 
a  great  living  nosegay  of  various  flowers  in  a  golden 
vase  ;  for  in  addition  to  their  own  costumes  they  were 
painted  in  careless  chance  splashes  of  red  ochre.     In 
this  holiday,  with  a  motive  which  I  leave  others  to 
explain,  the  excitement  consists  in  squirting  all  this 
coloured  liquid  over  one  another,  motion  adding  to  the 
undoubted  effect.    The  outside  scene  for  the  moment 
was  enchanting ;  and  nothing  would   have  marred 
the  effect,  had  it  not  been  for  the  grossly  vulgar  and 


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Il8  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDER/NGS. 

Ugly  high  Clock  Tower,  of  barbarous  English  design. 
Do  either  of  you  remember  old  King's  Cross,  long  and 
long  since  removed  ?  The  monster  at  Amritsar  is 
just  as  much  uglier  as  it  is  larger.  As  to  purchases 
at  Amritsar,  you  may  buy  shawls,  and  chudders,  silk 
fabrics,  and  carvings,  and  fancy  you  have  made  great 
bargains ;  and  when  you  bring  them  home  and  find 
you  don't  want  the  m,  and  have  them  valued  by  dis- 
dainful tradesmen,  you  are  certain  to  find  about  as 
many  shillings  put  upon  them  as  they  cost  you  pounds. 

Still  through  smiling  spreads  of  wheat,  of  strong 
and  even  growth,  I  undertook  my  two  hours  more 
to  Lahore,  and  found  myself  in  the  capital  of  the 
Punjab,  or  Panjab,at  Nedou's  Panjab  Hotel,  thus  yet 
more  nearly  approaching  my  looked-for  entrance 
into  Kashmir.  Delhi  is,  of  course,  in  the  Panjab  also, 
and  for  my  own  satisfaction,  if  not  for  yours,  I  w^ill 
write  down  the  names  of  the  five  Rivers — Panjab — 
that  give  this  name.  The  Indus  has  often  been 
mentioned  as  one,  but  it  is  not  so.  Here  they  are : 
The  Ravi  (or  Bavi),  the  Dias,  the  Jhelum,  that  flows 
through  the  Vale  of  Kashmir,  the  Chenab  and  the 
Sutlej. 

At  Lahore,  amidst  all  the  buildings  that  are  worth 
a  visit,  I  again  witnessed  the  extremely  picturesque 
effects  of  the  festival  of  the  "  Holi,"  which  were  yet 
more  striking  than  at  Amritsar.  For  the  crowds  in 
the  narrow  streets  were  far  more  densely  packed,  and 
all  were  in  constant  voice  and  movement.  Add  to 
this,  as  my  carriage  perforce  moved  very  quietly  along, 
there  was  ample  opportunity  for  appreciating  the 
incessant  appearances  of  delicate  carvings,  and  bal- 


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LAHORE,  119 

conies,  bay  windows,  and  indeed  whole  houses  them- 
selves, of  the  quaintest  and  most  picturesque  descrip- 
tions. Bazaars  and  bazaars  abounded;  with  oxen, 
goats,  and  buffaloes  interspersed,  and  vocal  sounds  of 
every  sort  and  kind. 

Here  I  learnt  that  the  Bays,  my  nephew's  former 
regiment,  were  at  Sealcote,  and  that  his  friend, 
Colonel  Lister  Kaye,  who  had  succeeded  to  command, 
was  there.  I  was  to  pay  him  a  visit,  and  this  made  a 
divergence  necessary  from  the  line  to  Peshawur  at 
the  Wazirabad  Junction,  a  distance  of  sixty-two  miles. 
A  morning  train  took  me  there  on  the  20th,  where  I 
found  a  letter  from  Adjutant  Captain  Dewar  and 
Colonel  Kaye's  dog-cart,  and  was  driven  to  the 
Colonel's  quarters,  he  being  absent  for  a  day  or  two. 
Meanwhile  I  was  hospitably  received  by  Major 
Sadlier,  my  acquaintance  with  whom  afterwards 
stood  me  in  excellent  stead.  I  stayed  from  the  20th 
till  the  morning  of  the  25th,  starting  with  Colonel 
Kaye,  who  went  straight  into  Kashmir  for  the  far 
mountains  beyond,  on  his  real  sporting  excursion 
during  his  three  months'  leave.  For  myself,  I  was  to 
visit  Rawl  Pindi,  staying  with  Captain  Heyland,  R. A.,  a  .  'V  , 
and  his  wife,  my  goddaughter  of  far-away  Brazil;  ^Um  ^  ^ f 
and  thence  to  go  on  to  Murree  for  Kashmir,  with  a 
divergence,  however,  to  Peshawur. 

In  this  journey  I  experienced  my  least  pleasant 
experience.  For,  leaving  Wazirabad  Junction  be- 
tween one  and  two  p.m.  on  Monday,  the  25th  of 
March,  I  arrived  at  Rawl  Pindi  at  11.30  at  night,  in 
a  pitiless  downpouring  of  rain,  and  there  I  found  a 
messenger  from    Rowbury's    Hotel,   whither  I   had 


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I20  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERJNGS. 

telegraphed,  informing  me  there  was  no  room.  The 
''  Imperial "  was  suggested  to  me,  but  there  was  no  gari 
to  take  me  there.  It  would  have  been  too  wet  for 
even  a  duck  to  attempt  to  walk.  At  last  a  kind  fellow- 
passenger,  who  was  detained  by  luggage,  lent  me  his 
gdri  to  go  and  to  return  it  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
In  less  than  that  time,  not  only  did  the  gAri  return, 
but  I  returned  with  it ;  for  so  abject  an  apology  for 
a  resting-place  I  had  never  till  then  beheld.  I  never 
thought  of  the  place  again,  and  the  house  might 
have  been  full  ;  but  you  are  liable  to  such  things  in 
India.  When  once  more  at  the  station  I  changed 
my  front,  decided  to  sleep  in  the  waiting-room,  as 
best  I  could,  and  to  start  for  Peshawur  by  the  first 
train  in  the  morning;  thus  postponing  my  Rawl 
Pindi  visit  till  my  return  for  Murree.  Accordingly, 
at  8.30  a.m.  on  the  26th,  I  left  for  Peshawur,  and 
drove  to  the  Dak  Bungalow,  though  I  had  a  letter 
to  the  Commissioner,  Colonel  Ommanney,  from  my 
friend  Colonel  Busk  in  England.  Fortunately  for 
me — fortunately  this  time — the  D4k  Bungalow  was 
full,  so  that  I  had  no  option  but  to  drive  to  the 
Colonel's,  on  whom  I  had  not  chosen  to  force  mysdf 
in  the  first  instance.  A  more  pleasant  house  and 
garden,  and  a  more  pleasant  reception  to  correspond, 
I  never  met  with.  No  sooner  was  my  letter  opened, 
than  the  question  was  put,  "  Where  are  your  things  ? " 
They  were  on  the  gdrf,  of  course  ;  but  in  a  very  short 
space  of  time  they  were  in  a  glorious  airy  bedroom, 
and  so  was  I,  with  servant  well  housed  into  the 
bargain ;  nor  did  much  time  elapse  before  I  found 
that  in  former  days  I  had  known,  among  oW  friends, 


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PESHAWUR,  121 

the   coloners  great-uncle,  Admiral  Sir  John   Om* 
manney. 

The  open  hospitality  in  India  many  years  ago  is 

abundantly  historical.     Visits  from  Europe  were  not 

so  numerous  as  now,  and,  moreover,  strangers  do 

not  now  by  any  means  stand  in  so  much  need  of 

assistance.     The  response  is  to-day  made  to  letters 

of  introduction,  which  in  the  olden  time  were  not 

necessary.     But  with  this  condition,  I  found  in  more 

cases  than  one  (which  will  appear  in  turn)  the  most 

benignant  welcome.     And  this  subject  calls  to  mind 

a  conversation  which  I  held  with  a  retired  colonel  in 

the  Indian  army,  whom  I  met  so  long  ago  as  July, 

1888,  just   three  months  before  I  left  England,  at 

the  house  of  my  esteemed  friends,  the  Rev.  E.  A. 

and  Mrs.  Pitcairn  Campbell,  of  Vicar's  Cross,  near 

Chester.     The  very  interesting  anecdote  he  told  me, 

while  we  were  naturally  conversing  about  my  then 

coming  journey,  he  has  lately  confirmed  by  letter, 

with  his  full  authority  to  make  use  of  the  particulars, 

which  are  really  most  amusing.     Even  this  anecdote, 

however,  is  not  older  than  1850. 

In  that  year,  Colonel  MacDougald,  as  a  young 
ensign,  was  travelling  from  Hansee,  near  Delhi, 
to  Segowlee — both  railway  stations  now — on  the 
borders  of  Nepaul,  to  join  the  loth  Regiment  Irre- 
gular Cavalry,  as  Adjutant.  On  the  i8th  of  April, 
1850,  he  took  the  steamer  Mirzapore  at  Benares, 
intending  to  drop  down  the  Ganges  as  far  as  Dina- 
porc.  But  as  the  steamer  made  only  twenty-five 
miles  in  four  days — mark  the  difference  of  now-a- 
days — he  induced  the  captain  to  put  him  on  shore  at 


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122  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

Syndpore,  where  he  hired  an  ekka,  and  in  that 
terrible  vehicle  he  underwent  a  wearisome,  happily 
not  mortal,  journey  of  absolutely  thirty  miles. 
What  is  an  ekka  ?  I  saw  several,  and  most  fortu- 
nately, sight  was  the  only  sense  that  was  affected  by 
this  cramped-up  instrument  of  torture.  The  colonel 
shall  describe  the  vehicle  himself.  "An  ekka  is  a 
light  two-wheeled  vehicle,  drawn  by  a  pony,  without 
springs,  inflicting  terrible  punishment  on  a  traveller 
if  he  has  to  ride  any  distance.  The  legs  of  the 
unfortunate  occupant  hang  over  the  side  without 
support  to  the  feet,  and  there  is  none  whatever  to 
the  back.  The  wheels  being  small,  you  are  close  to 
the  ground,  and  the  dust  is  intolerable.  The  punish- 
ment of  that  drive  I  shall  never  forget ;  and  having 
been  kept  awake  for  four  nights  previously  by  the 
largest  mosquitoes  I  have  ever  experienced,  I  was  by 
no  means  in  ordinary  good  trim  for  a  long  journey  of 
any  kind." 

The  young  ensign,  however,  survived  this  agony — 
but  only  try  to  imagine  what  Indian  travelling  then  so 
lately  was.  On  reaching  Ghazeepore  at  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  the  driver  made  for  the  first  bunga- 
low  in  the  station,  which  proved  to  be  that  of  a  Mr. 
Shaw.  Notwithstanding  the  early  hour,  the  servants 
were  roused,  refreshments  offered,  a  bed  made  up, 
and  a  comfortable  bath  prepared  ;  and  at  the  break* 
fast  table  the  host  and  hostess  first  became  acquainted 
with  their  guest.  Great  kindness  was  shown  to  him 
during  the  day,  and  after  a  comfortable  dinner  he 
started  with  twelve  palankeen  bearers  for  Buxar — 
now  also  a  railway  station,  and  also  a  refreshment 


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INDIAN  HOSPITALITY.  123 

room — a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  Mrs.  Shaw  kindly 
lending  her  palankeen. 

Next  comes  the  final  scene  of  the  exhibition  of 
Indian  travelling ;  and  it  contains  so  amusing  an 
incident,  that  the  colonel  shall  again  tell  it  in  his 
own  words  :— 

"Early  in  the  morning  Rarunkadhee  was  reached. 
Nothing,  however,  would  induce  the  palankeen 
bearers  to  cross  the  River  Ganges  to  the  rest-house — 
Dik  Bungalow— at  Buxar,  where  I  had  intended 
to  pass  the  heat  of  the  day.  Neither  threats  nor 
promises  were  of  any  avail,  the  bearers  insisting  that 
they  had  always  taken  parties  to  Major  Sherer's 
house,  and  thither  and  to  no  other  place  would  they 
go.  In  vain  I  expostulated  that  I  did  not  know 
Major  Sherer  (then  superintendent  of  the  Govern- 
ment studs),  and  that  I  would  prefer  the  public  rest- 
house.  But  no  :  the  bearers  argued  that  I  should  be 
well  received  by  the  Major  Sahib,  and  that  he  would 
be  dreadfully  offended  with  them  if  they  took  their 
travellers  elsewhere.  So,  lifting  up  the  palankeen  on 
their  shoulders,  they  entered  the  grounds,  making  as 
much  noise  as  they  could  to  attract  attention,  as  only 
palankeen-bearers  know  how  to  disturb  a  household, 
and  carried  me  up  to  the  front  door  of  the  house. 
Out  came  the  servants,  regretting  that  their  master 
and  mistress  had  just  started  for  a  drive — the  regular 
hour  in  India — but  assuring  me  that  a  bed-room  was 
prepared,  and  a  water-carrier  ready  with  his  mussuk 
to  give  me  a  fresh  bath,  and  that  tea  also  was  forth- 
coming. I  had  hardly  finished  my  toilet  and  entered 
the  drawing-room  when  up  drove  the  carriage.     And 


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124  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

here  comes  the  curious  incident  The  major  and  his 
wife,  seeing  a  palankeen  and  the  bearers  taking  their 
rest  under  the  trees,  made  up  their  minds  that  their 
own  young  son,  Joe,  whom  they  were  expecting  and 
had  not  seen  for  many  years,  had  really  arrived  ;  and, 
rushing  into  the  drawing-room,  Mrs.  Sherer  gave  me 
off-hand  a  most  warm-hearted  embrace,  at  which 
Major  Sherer,  delighting  in  the  joke,  laughed  most 
heartily,  when  a  few  minutes  had  served  to  dispel  the 
illusion.  This  kind  host  and  hostess  never  forgot 
their  guest  during  the  remainder  of  General  Sherer's 
distinguished  services  ;  and  I  and  the  son  have  up  to 
this  time  entertained  the  most  friendly  relations  with 
each  other.  I  was  pressed  to  stay  to  meet  their  son, 
but  I  had  to  join  my  regiment ;  and  thus,  loaded  with 
all  sorts  of  good  things  for  a  journey,  I  left  this 
hospitable  family.  Strange  to  relate,"  continues 
the  colonel  in  his  letter  to  me,  "  about  fifteen  years 
afterwards  I  lived  in  this  very  same  house,  and 
enjoyed  the  appointment  which  Major  Sherer  had  so 
long  occupied." 

Connected  with  the  hospitality  I  experienced  in 
India,  this  anecdote,  independently  of  its  intrinsic 
interest,  has  appeared  to  me  to  be  worthy  of  recalling 
and  recording.  With  Major  Ommanney,  whose  life 
was  enlivened  by  the  presence  of  his  two  musical  and 
cheerful  daughters,  I  passed  five  full  days  most 
pleasantly,  and  with  one  great  advantage,  namely, 
that  of  visiting  the  historically  famous  Khyber  Pass, 
under  the  authority  of  Colonel  Warburton,  who  was 
in  command  of  it. 


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XIII. 

It  was  on  a  fine  fresh  morning  on  the  27th  of 
March  that  Colonel  Ommanney  drove  me  into  Pesha- 
wur — an  extremely  picturesque  old  city,  but  far 
more  fitted  for  a  visit  than  a  stay.  The  grand  bird's- 
eye  view  of  all  is  from  the  top  of  the  gateway, 
belonging  (if  my  recollection  serves  me  rightly)  to 
the  old  palace.  The  surrounding  scene,  with  wild 
mountains  in  the  prospect,  is  remarkably  striking — 
the  city  lying  below — and  in  the  far  distance  to  the 
west  were  pointed  out  to  me  those  prominent  hills, 
looking  quite  clear,  that  form  the  entrance  to  the 
darkly  famous  Pass  which  I  was  anxious  to  enter. 
One  great  feature  in  the  city  are  the  bazaars,  and  the 
remarkable  variety  of  the  attending  crowds  coming 
in  from  all  regions,  with  Afghans  about  everywhere. 
As  to  the  city  itself,  it  must  be  confessed  that  it  does 
not  enjoy  a  very  exalted  general  character.  It  is  one 
that  ought  assuredly  to  be  visited  and  realized  by  any 
traveller  endowed  with  enterprise  enough  to  seek 
variety  and  strangeness,  and  desirous  of  witnessing 
what  those  parts  of  the  earth  (not  exactly  belonging 
to  Islington)  have  to  show.  And  this  may  well  be 
done  so  as  to  leave  a  strong  and  lasting  impression, 
without  counting  all  the  ugly  corners  that  abound 
within  its  precincts. 
Colonel  Warburton  came  to  luncheon  on  the  28th, 


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126  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

and  then  it  was  that  a  visit  to  the  Khyber  Fass^as  far 
as  Fort  AH  Musjid,  was  arranged.  It  was  more  than 
the  mere  satisfaction  of  curiosity  that  influenced  me  in 
my  desire  to  see  even  that  much,  of  a  scene  that  would 
surely  bring  back  vividly  my  recollections  of  1842. 
Not  so  many  now  living  can  clearly  recall  the  effect 
of  the  long  account  of  carnage  and  disaster  that 
shocked  all  England  at  that  momentous  period.  It 
was  in  the  beginning  of  1842  that  despatches  from 
India  made  us  all  aware  of  the  horrors  of  the  Afghan 
war,  and  the  retreat  from  Cabul.  I  had  then  not 
completed  twenty-three  years  of  age,  and  was  stay- 
ing  with  my  eldest  brother  at  Alresford,  then  a  curate 
of  the  late  Lord  Guilford.  He  was  engaged  to  be 
married  in  the  following  October  to  Miss  Dunn,  the 
half-sister  of  Captain  Hopkins,  who  had  accompanied 
Dr.  Brydon  in  the  flight  to  Jellalabad,  and  who  was 
massacred  within  ten  miles  of  that  city.  Dr.  Brydon 
alone  escaping  of  the  small  company  that  had  found 
their  way  almost  to  the  walls  of  safety.  And  what 
has  most  particularly  barbed  this  story  in  my  memory 
is  that  the  news  was  brought  to  the  mother,  then 
Mrs.  Dunn,  at  Alresford,  with  all  the  peculiar  anguish 
clinging  to  the  fact  that  with  but  a  few  more  miles  of 
riding  her  son  would  have  been  safe.  He  was  only 
just  near  enough  to  safety  for  safety  to  laugh  at  him. 
I  have  of  late  been  looking  back  to  the  files  of  the 
Times,  with  the  aid  of  "  Palmer's  Index,"  to  find  the 
letter  which  I  have  always  so  well  remembered,  and 
which  appears  in  that  journal  under  date  of  April  7th, 
1842;  I  mean  the  letter  that  Dr.  Brydon  wrote  his 
brother  "  Tom  "  after  his  safe  arrival  at  Jellalabad.   Nor 


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KHYBER  PASS.  12/ 

was  it  possible  for  me  to  forbear  wandering  through 
all  the  neighbouring  dates  and  columns  of  that  period, 
so  that  I  seemed  at  last  to  live  again  in  the  days  of 
'^  Disastrous  Intelligence."  Out  of  4500  fighting- 
men  and  12,000  camp-followers  who  left  the  canton- 
ments, leaving  behind  them  their  provisions,  guns  and 
ammunition — all  under  arrangements  blindly  made 
by  General  Elphinstone  with  Akbar  Khan,  after  his 
treacherous  assassination  of  the  British  envoy.  Sir 
William  MacNaghten,at  a  conference — those  who  by 
mere  accident  survived  might  be  numbered  by  a  few 
score. 

Dr.  Brydon  recounts  that  their  party  of  seven 
officers  and  five  European  soldiers  reached  to  a 
distance  of  thirty  miles  from  Jellalabad,  Captain 
Hopkins  being  one  of  the  seven.  They  were 
attacked,  and  three  of  the  officers  and  all  the  soldiers 
were  killed,  Lieutenant  Bird  falling  by  his  side. 
Captains  Bellow,  Collyer,  Hopkins,  and  a  fourth 
reached  to  sixteen  miles  of  Jellalabad,  but  these  first- 
named  three  being  well  mounted  had  ridden  on 
alone.  The  fourth  gave  in  and  was  slain.  Dr.  Bry- 
don continued  slowly^  and  at  last  met  a  party  of  six 
of  the  enemy,  one  of  whom  wildly  rode  at  him  and, 
wounding  him,  galloped  by.  The  three  who  had 
ridden  forward  he  never  saw  again  ;  but  this  party 
of  six  were  leading  a  horse,  and,  for  reasons  which 
I  forget  now,  this  horse  was  recognized  at  the  time 
as  having  been  Captain  Hopkins's. 

At  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  29th  of 
March,  armed  with  a  permission,  I  started  in  a  two- 
horse  wagonette  for  the  entrance    to   the   Pass  at 


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128  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

Jumrud  Fort,  a  fort  belonging  to  us  and  lying  at  a 
distance  of  ten  miles.  The  weather  was  fine  and 
fresh,  and  I  had  furnished  myself  well,  as  I  thought, 
with  wraps  at  starting.  "You  must  take  more/' 
said  Colonel  Ommanney,  who  was  at  hand  to  see 
me  off.  "Oh!  these  are  quite  enough,"  quoth  I. 
"No  such  thing,  I  assure  you,"  he  replied;  and 
well  was  it  for  me  that  he  was  there  to  say  "  No." 
It  is  quite  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  all  India 
is  always  hot.  The  latitude  of  Peshawur  is  about 
34  degrees,  barely  that  of  Cyprus;  but  Peshawur 
can  be  very  cold  as  well  as  very  hot.  I  was  well 
satisfied  to  be  well  clothed  in  my  drive,  and, 
attended  by  one  mounted  guard,  I  arrived  safely  at 
Jumrud  Fort  Here  I  delivered  up  my  pass,  and  my 
mounted  guard  left  me.  But  he  was  at  once  suc- 
ceeded by  two,  who  rode  forth  from  the  Fort  to 
attend  me ;  and  thus  I  entered.  Another  ten  miles 
brought  me  to  AH  Musjid,  the  intended  limit  of  my 
excursion.  This  indeed,  as  I  was  authoritatively  told, 
is  the  most  striking  feature  in  the  Pass.  The  scene 
is  very  mountainous  and  wild,  and  the  road  rises  and 
falls  from  time  to  time  very  picturesquely.  But  it  is 
not  a  bold,  hard,  rocky  Pass  ;  on  the  contrary,  the 
formation  is  shaly  and  slatey.  Fort  AH  Musjid  is  a 
sort  of  double  fort,  and  is  built  on  a  huge  middle 
ragged  eminence,  on  each  side  of  which  there  is 
one  still  higher,  and  quite  as  ragged.  The  Pass  here 
is  naturally  very  narrow,  and  the  whole  view  afforded 
ample  faciHty  for  comprehending  all  those  arduous 
sufferings  that  have  stamped  it  with  an  ugly  immor- 
tality.    In  that  Fort,  now  desolate  and  silent  and 


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KHYBER  PASS.  129 

indifferent,  I  was  to  breakfast.  Half  an  hour's  hard 
climb  took  me  to  the  warderless  gateway,  and  my 
coachman  quietly  carried  up  and  laid  out  for  me  my 
undisturbed  repast.  But  I  was  not  alone,  for  within 
there  were  a  number  of  rough  tenants,  and  these  at 
once  came  round  me  and  watched  me  as  a  Feringhee, 
or  foreigner.  There  they  stood  while  I  ate,  and  when 
I  had  satisfied  my  appetite  they  appeared  to  have 
satisfied  their  curiosity,  leaving  me  and  my  coach- 
man and  the  basket  to  depart  in  peace.  It  would 
not  have  been  so  in  1842. 

On  coming  down  I  was  somewhat  surprised  to  see 
an  escort  of  Afghan  Cavalry,  and,  while  wondering, 
was  saluted  with  an  English  *'  Good  morning."  This 
I  found  afterwards  was  an  Englishman,  representing 
a  well-known  firm  in  Calcutta  (the  name  of  which  I 
ought  to  have  taken)  engaged  in  rather  large  con- 
tracts with  the  Amir,  and  this  partner  was  in  the 
habit  of  making  the  long  journey,  to  and  fro,  as  far 
as  Cabul — 190  miles  from  Peshawur — under  special 
escort.  These  journeys,  I  was  told,  are  permitted 
by  our  Government  under  the  express  understanding 
that  there  is  no  responsibility  for  personal  safety.  I 
was  by  no  means  sorry  to  sit  and  talk  with  him  for  a 
certain  period,  for  it  enabled  me  to  dwell  upon  the 
strange  scene  around  me,  and  to  imbibe  a  certain 
inspiration  from  the  reality. 

In  my  morning  journey  I  had  been  delighted  with 
the  beautiful  effects  of  the  early  sunshine  on  the  dis- 
tant snow  mountains  to  the  north,  with  the  purples  on 
Tartarra  and  his  indented  ranges.  On  my  return 
°^y  curiosity  was  correspondingly  awakened  by  the 

K 


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130  IVANDERJAGS  AND    W'OXDERINGS, 

crowds  of  life  I  met  coming  in.  It  was  just  the  time 
of  year  for  the  return  to  Cabul,  and  hundreds  of 
turbaned,  swarthy  Afghans,  attending  their  hundreds 
of  laden,  hairy  camels,  for  sometime  intercepted,  and 
happily  in  no  hostile  mood  as  of  yore,  my  retreat 
from  the  Khyber  Pass. 

My  next  day's  occupation  was  of  a  very  different 
character.  I  went  with  Colonel  Ommanney  to  a  dis- 
tribution of  prizes  among  native  students  in  the 
Public  Gardens,  a  most  satisfactory  exhibition,  all 
countenances  exhibiting  the  becoming  sunshine  of 
the  occasion.  But  no  one  ought  to  leave  Peshawur 
without  speaking  of  the  vast  spread  of  stuccoed  lawn- 
tennis  grounds  :  the  nurseries,  these  perhaps  in  Eng- 
land, of  female  voters,  by  their  developing  power. 
If  Peshawur  of  to-day  is  [celebrated  lor  anything 
iimocent,  it  is  so  for  its  lawn-tennis  grounds,  and 
if  Colonel  Ommanney  is  celebrated  for  anything 
outside  his  official  duties,  it  is  for  his  warlike  pur- 
suit of  tennis — but  not  of  lawn.  Cold  as  I  found 
the  morning  on  my  visit  to  the  Pass,  Peshawur 
soon  gets  hot,  and  people  who  can  do  so,  get  away. 
Yet  there  are  mountains  all  round,  more  or  less 
distant  certainly,  but  still  all  round  ;  and  one  parti- 
cular feature  of  the  scenery  results  from  this :  look 
which  way  you  will  there  are  mountains  at  the  end  of 
every  flat  line. 


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XIV. 

From  my  pleasant  divergence  to  Peshawur  I  re- 
turned to  Rawl  Pindi  on  Sunday,  the  31st  of  March, 
and  here  my  second  attempt  was  far  more  successful 
than  my  first.  I  found  myself  very  comfortably 
housed  at  Powell's  Hotel,  and  in  full  communication 
with  my  friends,  Captain  and  Mrs.  Heyland.  At 
Rawl  Pindi  I  spent  a  few  pleasant  days,  but  the 
weather  was  rainy,  and  the  changes  in  the  ther- 
mometer frequent  and  important,  Mrs.  Oliphant, 
with  whose  husband  in  the  Army  Veterinary  Corps 
I  found  I  had  made  chance  acquaintance  in  travel- 
ling, and  who  shortly  afterwards  appeared,  drove 
me  to  witness  the  distribution  of  prizes  at  the 
Horse  Show,  by  Sir  Thomas  Baker,  Commis- 
sioner of  the  Division,  where  I  afterwards  saw  the 
singular  exercise  of  what  is  called  tent-pegging. 
The  horseman  gallops  by  and  is  to  wrench  up  the 
peg  with  his  lance  as  he  passes.  This  attempt  the 
native  lancers  accompanied  with  a  wild,  warlike  and 
somewhat  alarming  cry,  but  the  peg  very  often  re- 
mained wholly  indifferent  to  the  alarum  and  attack. 
The  company  was  large  and  gay. 

I  would  mention  that  it  was  here  Lieut-Colonel 
Oliphant  called  my  attention  to  two  photographs  of 
two  wcry  ancient  and  rather  imperfect  figures,  but  ex- 
ceedingly  Grecian  in  their  appearance,  which  I  at  once 

K  2 


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132  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS, 

bought,  but  which  I  regret  to  find  will  not  admit 
of  reproduction.  He  informed  me  that  there  are 
several  of  the  same  character  in  the  Mess  Room  of  the 
Queen's  Own  Regiment  of  Guides  at  Hoti  Murdan. 
They  were  brought  (as  I  understood)  from  the 
Swats'  country  after  the  Black  Mountain  War,  and 
not  far  from  the  Indus.  Whence  they  derive  their 
Grecian  aspect  may  be  a  question  of  much  curiosity. 

My  chief  matter  of  business  at  Rawl  Pindi  was  to 
arrange  my  journey  to  Murree,  and  thence  onwards 
to  Kashmir ;  and  again  the  Parsee  was  the  coach 
proprietor,  Mr.  Dhanjiboy.  With  him  I  engaged  a 
two-horse  tonga  to  take  me  as  far  as  Gharri.  This  is 
the  fifth  station  beyond  Murree,  the  distance  being 
forty  miles  to  Murree  and  sixty-two  more  to  Gharri. 
Hattian,  twelve  miles  more,  was  the  usual  limit,  but 
some  bridge  had  given  way,  and  from  Gharri  ponies 
were  to  be  obtained  for  Baramula,  fifty  miles  farther 
— this  being  the  foot  station  of  the  Vale.  I  speak  as 
I  found,  because  I  am  writing  my  own  record,  but  all 
this  is  altered  now  under  the  new  road  system. 

Now,  as  a  general  rule,  I  could  have  gone  on  from 
Murree  on  the  day  following  my  arrival,  six  hours 
serving  to  lake  me  thither  from  Rawl  Pindi.  But  I 
was  detained  there  longer  than  I  had  intended, 
passing  through  one  of  those  phases  of  life  that  vex 
with  present  annoyance,  but  result  in  subsequent 
advantage.  "  How  very  wrong  to  be  vexed,"  says 
the  would-be  moralist,  not  being  himself  vexed  at  the 
moment,  but  just  as  liable  to  that  frailty  as  those 
whom  he  would  lecture.  If  we  knew  that  good  was 
coming  we  might  not  be  vexed,  but  then  sometimes 


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Id  AWL  P/.VD/.  133 

the  present  seeming  advantage  is  followed  by  the 
opposite,  and  in  that  case  foreknowledge  would  check 
satisfaction.  In  fact,  doing  right  and  doing  wrong 
are  just  as  contradictory  in  their  results  as  the 
happening  right  and  happening  wrong.  This  sort  of 
confusion  of  consequences,  measured  by  our  expecta- 
tions and  desires,  happened*  to  be  vexing  my  philo- 
sophy at  that  moment,  so  I  composed  a  parody, 
which  I  shall  detain  you  by  printing  here.  I  daresay 
you  all  remember,  or  will  easily  recall,  the  paradox 
of  the  "  Rules  of  the  Road,"  as  propounded  by  a 
learned  judge  some  years  ago  :  — 

The  Rules  of  the  Road  are  a  paradox  quite ; 

For,  as  you  are  driving  along, 
If  you  go  to  the  left,  you  are  sure  to  go  right, 

If  you  go  to  the  right,  you  go  wrong. 

Then  comes  my  parody  : — 

The  Rules  of  this  Life  are  a  paradox  quite ; 

To  their  course  contradictions  belong  ; 
For  if  you  do  wrong,  you  too  often  prove  right, 

Doing  right,  you  are  left  in  the  wrong. 

But  if  the  occasion  of  all  these  reflections  was  not 
great  to  any  besides  myself,  the  man  that  occasioned 
them  was  assuredly  so.  For  in  point  of  fact  my 
departure  from  Murree  was  fidgeted  from  one  day 
to  another  because  Sir  Frederick,  now  Lord,  Roberts, 
the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Indian  Army,  was 
going  into  Kashmir  just  at  the  moment  that  I  had 
settled  to  do  the  same  thing  myself.     However,  on 


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134  WAXDERIXGS  AXD    WONDERIXGS. 

tlie  morning  of  Saturday,  April  6th,  I  left  PoweU's 
comfortable  hotel  at  Rawl  Pindi  in  my  tonga,  taking 
with  me  in  the  back  seat  my  travelling  servant, 
"  Mogul  John  "  (of  whom  hereafter),  and  my  cook 
for  Kashmir,  Bana.  It  was  only  half  a  good-bye  to 
Captain  and  Mrs  Hey  land,  for  he  had  his  leave  and 
they  were  to  follow. 

My  tonga-start  from  Rawl  Pindi  was  the  admiration 
of  more  than  one  beholder,  and  I  must  confess  to 
their  laughter  and  my  own  distrustful  astonishment. 
But  I  had  faith  in  Zoroaster,  and  away  we  got  at 
last,  after  having  described  certain  wheel  figures  on 
the  hotel  drive  which  could  not  have  claimed  a 
problem  in  Euclid  for  any  Q.E.D.  Now,  if  that  one 
start  was  astonishing,  what  were  some  of  the  others 
among  all  the  very  rawest  of  ponies  that  were  from 
time  to  time  put  to  ?  The  fights,  and  the  breakings 
loose,  and  the  bringings  back  again,  and  makings  to 
go,  beggar  all  description.  But  the  thing  was  re- 
peatedly done,  and  admirably  done  indeed.  I  never 
had  seen  the  maxim  so  well  applied,  '*  Never  let  a 
horse  get  the  better  of  you, — if  you  can  help  it." 

Murree  lies  7CK>o  feet  above  Rawl  Pindi,  and  the 
road  very  soon  becomes  picturesque.  There  is  a 
good  deal  of  up  and  down  among  round  hills  decked 
with  stunted  green,  and  there  are  cultivated  valleys. 
By-and-by  the  necessary  ascent  begins  and  the 
views  enlarge,  all  culminating  at  the  last  change  in  a 
vast  range  of  folding  hills  and  valleys.  To  Murree 
we  came  at  last,  and  quite  in  good  time,  but  there 
was  still  another  mount  to  Powell's  Hotel,  called,  I 
believe,  "  Viewfort.*'     Whether  it  is  the  best  hotel  I 


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MURREE.  1 35 

know  not,  because  I  lived  in  no  other,  but  I  can 
say  that  it  was  very  good,  and  that  Mr.  Powell  was 
very  cheerful  and  obliging,  while,  as  to  position, 
having  seen  the  other  leading  one,  I  have  no  hesita- 
tion in  saying  that  the  position  of  Powell's  is  in- 
comparably the  best.  Nothing  could  well  be  more 
striking  than  the  enormous  expanse  of  mountainous 
ranges  and  undulating  valleys,  all  interspersed  in 
untraceable  confusion,  that  lie  far  below  you,  ex- 
tending to  the  far-distant  snowy  ranges  that  border 
Kashmir.  Much  terraced  cultivation  of  bright  green 
corn  in  broad  lines  and  patches,  amid  the  general 
brown  of  the  month  of  Apiil,  help  to  soften  the 
scene,  and  remind  one  that  busy  life  yet  claims  a 
dwelling  among  the  comparative  solitudes.  But  it 
was  time  to  go  in  and  get  oneself  comfortable,  and 
I  found  my  cheerful  landlord  just  the  man  to  make 
me  so.  Not  many  at  that  moment  were  there,  and 
he  gave  me  a  chosen  corner  room  in  his  outside  row, 
which  commanded  all  the  majestic  prospects. 

The  first  fruit,  not  a  very  large  one  perhaps,  of  my 
being  detained  by  Sir  Frederick  Roberts  (that  was 
his  title  then,  and  so  I  shall  speak  of  him)  was  that 
I  saw  him.  People  say  ihcy  can  beheve  without 
seeing,  but  they  always  like  to  see  nevertheless,  and 
while  we  are  flesh  and  blood — and  who  can  prove 
what  else  we  are  ? — we  are  always  striving  after  the 
visible  and  tangible.  Well,  I  saw  Sir  Frederick 
Roberts.  On  Sunday  morning  I  was  standing  at 
the  end  of  the  veranda  with  Captain  McRae,  when 
there  rode  into  the  courtyard  one  or  two  horsemen 
and  one  or  two  ladies ;  and  the  eldest  of  the   party 


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136  WANDEIilNGS  AND    \VONDERL\GS. 

jogged  up  towards  us.  "Who's  this,"  I  said,  "  like  a 
light  weight  at  covert  side  ?"  That  was  his  appearance : 
nothing  like  stiff  soldier  parade  seat :  and  I  daresay 
he  won't  be  angry  if  he  sees  this.  My  companion  of 
the  moment  had  just  time  to  say,  "That  is  Sir 
Frederick,''  when  he  hailed  us  with  "  Good  morning," 
and  asked  for  Sir  Thomas  Baker.  "  I  will  go  and 
find  him,"  said  the  captain.  "  Thanks,  I  am  going 
on  to  Kashmir  and  wished  to  bid  him  good-bye." 
The  very  first  observation  Sir  Frederick  made  to  me 
was,  "You  have  a  very  fine  view  here  indeed,"  to 
which  I  responded,  and,  after  a  few  casual  remarks 
between  us,  Sir  Thomas  was  found,  and  I  saw  no 
more  of  Sir  Frederick  till  on  a  memorable  occasion 
not  long  forward  in  the  future.  But  I  had  now 
realized  the  man  whose  name  only  I  had  known, 
and  having  judged  by  a  photograph  that  he  was  a 
large,  swarthy  officer,  I  now  knew  he  was  nothing  of 
the  kind.  How  many  of  our  unseens  remain  only 
creatures  of  the  brain  to  the  end,  and  even  when 
seen,  how  much  it  still  costs  to  get  rid  of  the  figured 
unseen. 

From  this  profound  reflection  I  passed  to  my 
inevitable  preparations  for  Kashmir  in  procuring  all 
necessary  household  or  tent  utensils,  and  a  pair  of 
long  wicker  baskets,  covered  with  leather,  called 
kiltas,  in  which  to  carry  them.  But  to  the  con- 
tents were  to  be  added  certain  tins  of  prcvender. 
Among  these,  one  grand  item  should  always  be 
remembered,  Paysandu  tongues — there  is  nothing  like 
them.  They  come  from  the  Republic  of  Uruguay, 
and   are   by  far  the  finest   specimens   of  preserved 


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MURREE.  1 37 

tongus,  or  preserved  anything,  I  have  met  with  any- 
where. A  very  nice  pony  was  offered  me  for  Rs. 
40,  but  I  was  too  far  from  the  riding  point  to  take 
him,  and  it  was  well  for  me  I  declined  him. 

Murree,  though  7000  feet  above  the  sea  level,  is 
not  considered  a  remarkably  healthy  place ;  indeed 
there  had  been  a  very  severe  course  of  cholera  there 
in  1888.  And  in  looking  over  the  grand  view  I 
have  spoken  of,  I  could  not  avoid  a  misgiving  that 
it  must  be.  sometimes  invaded,  when  the  wind  sets 
that  way,  by  miasma  from  the  not  too  distant  flats. 
The  weather  also  is  apt  to  be  very  unsettled  at 
times;  and  so  I  found  it  while  there,  though  I 
secured  a  pleasant  ride  or  two  to  Pinnacle  Hill  and 
other  spots.  The  scope  for  excursions  is,  however, 
limited. 

It  was  in  fact  bad  weather  that  prevented  my 
leaving  before  Saturday,  the  13th  of  April;  for  in 
the  night  of  the  9th  we  had  a  very  heavy  thunder- 
storm, accompanied  with  that  grim  and  ghostly 
phenomenon,  a  high  wind  in  the  dark.  Nay  more, 
there  was  snow  ;  ay,  and  a  small  shock  of  earthquake 
into  the  bargain  was  felt  by  all  of  us  in  the  course  of 
the  night.  The  next  two  days  were  but  little  better, 
and  bad  reports  of  the  roads  came  in,  large  landslips 
being  announced.  However,  on  Saturday,  the  13th, 
as  I  have  said,  I  came  away  in  my  tonga,  notwith- 
standing all  misgivings,  and  reached  the  station  of 
Domel  for  the  night.  The  road  descends  rapidly 
from  Murree  towards  the  River  Jhelum,  which  flows 
through  the  Vale  of  Kashmir  and  falls  into  the 
Indus.     Almost   immediately   after  leaving  Murree 


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138  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

the  scenery  becomes  charming.  The  road  descends 
through  a  steep,  hanging  mass  of  wood  on  the  hills 
and  mountain  sides^  and  shows  the  distant  snow  ranges 
through  the  forest  trees  on  the  left.  Then  it  mounts 
and  falls,  and  turns  to  and  fro,  and  round  among  the 
valleys,  gorges  and  vast  ridges  which  are  seen  from 
Powell's  Hotel,  until  descending  within  a  few  miles 
short  of  Kohala,  the  Kashmir  Jhelum  is  first  caught 
sight  of.  When  you  have  passed  Kohdla  this  river 
is  followed  up  the  whole  way  in  a  gorge  to  Baramula^ 
and  is  always  a  rushing  noisy  stream.  But  at  Bara- 
mula,  where  the  traveller  finds  himself  at  the  foot  of 
the  Vale  proper,  the  river  has  suddenly  become  a 
sluggish  stream. 

Perhaps  the  chief  eye  of  this  day's  journey  is  to 
be  seen  shortly  after  leaving  Daywal,  ten  miles 
from  Murree.  But  on  approaching  Domel,  about 
the  hour  of  sunset,  I  was  particularly  struck  by  a 
fine  white  mountain  in  the  distance,  the  name  of 
which  was  given  me  as  Karnar.  I  arrived  at  about 
seven  in  the  evening,  and  had  found  to  my  cost  in 
this  journey  that  the  report  of  a  large  landslip  was 
not  untrue.  A  long,  trying  walk  to  meet  another 
tonga  was  the  result,  but  here  also  struck  in  a  happy 
small  incident ;  for  at  Dulai,  on  the  way,  a  few 
minutes*  conversation  with  a  quite  unknown  gentle- 
man turned  out  to  be  of  infinite  service  to  me  long 
afterwards  in  Kashmir.  As  to  the  changes  and 
startings  of  the  horses,  these  were  as  before.  One 
instance,  however,  shone  out  supreme,  where  the 
animal  twice  kicked  itself  right  out,  and  was  twice 
brought  back.     At  Kohdla  British  territory  ends. 


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KASHMIR.  1 39 

My  next  day,  Sunday,  April  4th,  took  me  some 
fifteen  miles  perhaps,  to  Gharri,  and  here  my  tonga 
contract  ended,  and  I  was  to  depend  on  pony  and 
coolies  for  baggage.  I  had  brought  my  two  servants 
with  me,  and  had  engaged  a  chustas,  or  water-carrier, 
Camala  by  name,  at  Murree,  and  he  had  taken 
charge  of  my  luggage,  which  he  now  brought  in. 
But  now  arose  the  next  inconvenience  from  the  visit 
of  the  Commander-in-Chief.  He  and  his  retinue,  like 
a  marching  army,  had  swept  the  country  of  every 
coolie  and  every  pony,  and  I  and  others  were  com- 
pletely stranded.  The  Hey  lands  had  come  in  in 
the  evening,  and  I  found  them  comfortably  tented 
out  with  their  two  sturdy  boys,  quite  children  ;  but 
they  had  made  their  own  private  arrangements* 
and  could  get  on  with  their  own  people,  which  they 
did.  All  next  day  I  had  to  wait,  with  a  prospect 
of  the  next  and  perhaps  the  next. 

But  while  in  this  predicament  there  arose  one 
alleviation  as  regards  monotony.  I  was  not  alone 
in  trouble,  and  I  presently  made  the  acquaintance  of 
a  very  pleasant  lady,  who  was  likewise,  though  more 
patiently  than  I,  waiting  for  her  release.  In  opening 
conversation  I  observed,  among  other  things,  that 
according  both  to  Lavater  and  Gall,  she  had  a  large 
organ  of  language,  as  betokened  by  the  lower  eyelid  ; 
and  pursuing  our  intercourse  farther,  I  soon  dis- 
covered that  she  had  travelled  a  good  deal.  This  led 
to  reciprocal  recollections  and  an  interchange  of 
experiences  and  impressions,  until  I  said,  "  I  went 
also  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  I  had  Miss  Bird's 
book  with  me.*'     Whereupon  forthwith  there  came 


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I40  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

the  short  reply,  "  I  am  Miss   Bird."     Thus,  then,  so 
far  I  was  rewarded  for  delay.     What  next  ? 

"  Why  e'en  in  that  was  heaven  ordinant." 

"Hallo!  are  you  here?"  said  somebody  who  had 
seen  me  at  Sealcote.  "  Yes,"  I  replied,  "  and  likely  to 
remain  here."  "Why/*  quoth  he,  "Major  Sadlier  is 
to  be  here  to-night,  on  his  way  to  Baramula."  So 
far,  so  good  ;  but  what  then  ?  With  evening  came 
the  major  and  his  friend.  Captain  Armstrong,  of  the 
Fusiliers ;  and  recognizing  me  with  a  hearty  greeting, 
and  hearing  why  I  was  still  here,  "  Oh,"  said  he, 
"  come  on  with  us  to-morrow  ;  I  have  all  my  four  polo 
poriies  with  me,  and  you  can  take  one  of  them." 
Thus  was  I,  after  all,  more  than  compensated  for  the 
delay ;  and  in  the  morning  we  cheerfully  journeyed 
on  together,  I  delighting  in  my  pleasant  mount  and 
— in  my  English  saddle.  Thanks,  therefore,  to  Sir 
Frederick  Roberts  for  having  detained  me  till  Major 
Sadlier  came. 

It  was  at  Uri,  two  stations  short  of  Baramula, 
that  I  saw  the  last  of  Mrs.  Bishop  (Miss  Bird),  and, 
bidding  me  a  very  gracious  good-bye,  with  a  hope  of 
meeting  again,  she  added,  to  my  amusement,  "And, 
do  you  know,  I  have  been  quietly  laughing  all  the 
whilC;  for  you  are  wearing  my  hat.  Now  do  tell  me 
where  you  got  it."  "  Bless  my  heart,"  \  said,  "  this 
hat  was  given  me  by  my  own  servant,  to  whom  (as 
he  told  me)  it  had  been  given  by  somebody  else's 
servant."  "Well,  I'm  delighted  to  hear  that,  fori 
charged  my  man  with  having  sold  it.  I  gave  it  away 
because  it  made  my  head  ache ;  and  I  am  delighted 


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KASHMIR,  141 

to  find  it  so  well  disposed  of  at  last."  The  anecdote 
is  trite,  but  happening  between  a  distinguished  and 
an  undistinguished  traveller,  and  with  a  hope  of 
meeting  again,  I  choose  to  record  it  as  an  incident  by 
the  way.  I  must  record,  also,  that  in  a  very  few  days 
I  found  my  own  head  was  just  so  far  entitled  to 
affinity  with  Miss  Bird's,  that  the  hat,  which  was  one 
of  those  great  ventilated  saucepans,  made  mine  ache 
likewise ;  and  as  it  had  been  given  to  me,  so  gave  I 
it  away  to  somebody  else,  who  did  not  wear  a  turban. 
If  ever  I  have  the  hoped-for  pleasure  of  meeting 
Miss  Bird  again,  the  hat  is  quite  sure  to  be  revived 
in  our  conversations. 

Throughout  the  journey  to  Baramula  the  class  of 
scenery  continues  much  the  same.  The  mountains 
are  nearly  all  round-headed,  though  vast.  Some 
appear  to  be  high  enough  to  carry  snow  through  the 
year.  All  the  rest  are  green,  and  show  cultivated  ter- 
races. Now,  however,  that  the  carriage-road  is  made, 
the  length  and  the  rugged  fatigue  of  the  ride  are 
matters  cf  the  past;  but  our  own  enforced  deviations 
were  not  a  little  trying.  The  mountains  are  always 
there,  and  the  rushing  river  is  always  there ;  there  is 
a  sameness  of  variety,  and  a  variety  of  sameness. 


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XV. 

Passing  through    Hattian,  Chicoh',   Uri,  and  Ram- 
pore,  on  Friday,  the  19th,  we  made  an  early  push  to 
Baramula.     My  companions,  taking  a   turn   to   the 
right  without  my  observing  them,  passed  over  into  the 
Vale  by  what  is  called  the  Baramula  Pass.    This  road 
I  took  on  leaving  the  Vale,  and  will  speak  of  it  then. 
But  in  going  in  I  was  directed  by  the  new  road,  which 
takes  you  round  by  a  level  entrance.     And  here,  I 
must  confess,  was  my  first   disappointment;    for  I 
beheld  a  very  wide,  flat  valley,  with  no  feature  that 
very  particularly  struck  me.     My  companions  arrived 
by  their  road  almost  at  the  same  moment  as  myself, 
and  there  we  met  the  agent  of  Bahar  Shah,  of  Srina- 
gar,  to  whom,  by  the  good  advice  of  Colonel  Lister 
Kaye,  I  had  already  telegraphed,  and  who  proved  of 
excellent  service  to  me  throughout  my  visit  to  the 
Vale.     In  short,  this  is  the  real  house  to  rely  upon. 
My  companions  at  this  point  arranged  their  own  two 
boats,  and   I    took   possession   of  my  two,  already 
prepared  for  me.     These  were  to  be  the  dwellings  of 
myself  and  servants  throughout  Kashmir,  excepting 
when  I  was  in  tent,  and  the  names  of  the  owners  were 
given  me  as  Rahmana  and  Arfa.     I  had  full  reason 
to  be  satisfied  with  them  throughout. 

These  boats  are  rather  rough  ;  they  are  long,  and 


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KASHMIR,  143 

of  course  flat  bottomed ;  the  prow  is  left  open  for 
working,  and  the  stern  is  reserved  for  the  rowers'  and 
towers'  uses.  The  larger  third,  in  the  middle,  is 
partitioned  off,  and  furnished  according  to  your  own 
taste,  for  your  own  sitting-room,  dining-room,  and 
bedroom  ;  and  from  time  to  time  you  can  of  course 
walk  out  and  sit  in  the  prow.  You  are  covered  in 
with  double  matting,  which  is  fairly  comfortable,  but 
requires  a  good  deal  of  tying  and  tucking  in  when 
the  wind  blows.  Your  second  boat  is  reserved  espe- 
cially for  your  stores  and  cooking  apparatus,  and  for 
other  general  uses,  including  the  people  who  work  it, 
and  your  own  crew  also.  On  the  first  day  all  our 
four  boats  anchored  for  the  night  above  a  famous 
fishing  spot  called  Sopur,  but,  being  no  fisherman 
myself,  I  need  not  pause  on  that  particular  fact.  At 
very  early  morning  my  companions  went  on,  my  own 
men  starting  much  later. 

Now  I  have  told  you  what  were  my  first  impressions 
of  Baramula,  and  my  entrance  into  the  Vale.  What 
were  they  of  my  six  hours'  journey  up  to  Sopur  ?  In 
the  first  place,  my  enthusiasm  was  not  greatly  ex- 
aggerated by  finding  that  we  were  to  be  towed  up  the 
river ;  and  thus  it  was  all  the  way  to  Sopur,  to  begin 
with.  The  banks  of  the  Jhelum  were  as  flat  and 
barren  as  those  of  a  common  canal ;  and  this  is  a 
feature  that  belongs  to  a  wide  and  totally  flat  valley. 
In  its  main  characteristics  thus  far,  to  begin  with,  I 
found  it  much  wider  and  much  flatter  than  my  too- 
well-tutored  expectations  had  led  me  to  anticipate. 
There  was  a  continuous  show  of  middle-distance 
mountains,  and  farther  off  of  snow  mountains ;  but 


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144  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

these  were  in  the  decided  distance,  and  then  came  the 
thawing  information  of  one  of  my  boatmen,  **  Snow 
disappears  on  many  in  summer."  Such  are  not 
thoroughbred  snow  mountains.  This  distance  that  I 
speak  of  prevents  these  mountains  from  appearing  to 
belong  to  the  flat  Vale ;  they  do  not  give  the  effect  in  any 
degree  whatever  of  being  two  prolonged  and  adorning 
attendant  ridges  on  either  side  ;  they  represent,  rather, 
a  distant  and  uneven  amphitheatre.  Here  and  there, 
but  never  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  there  were  green 
undulations  which  showed  beauty,  and  dotted  with 
certain  timber,  but  not  large.  I  saw  nothing  of 
striking  and  indisputable  superiority  anywhere,  though 
much  that  was  now  and  then  pleasing.  Thus  I 
arrived  at  Sopur,  and,  somewhat  distrustfully,  judg- 
ing from  the  general  aspect  around  me,  I  waited  for 
more  romantic  features. 

On  the  next  day — Saturday,  the  20th— I  con- 
tinued my  course  up  the  river  to  Srinagar — the 
City  of  the  Sun — and,  as  I  anticipated,  passed 
through  merely  the  same  class  of  scenery.  It  was 
dusk  before  we  arrived  at  the  capital,  and  here  the 
effect  was  decidedly  depressing.  The  city  lies  on 
both  sides  of  the  river,  and  it  presented  to  me,  at 
first  sight,  one  of  the  most  tumble-down  places  I 
ever  saw.  This  feature  is  never  quite  alien  to  the 
picturesque ;  in  short,  very  often  the  least  habitable 
of  dwellings  look  the  sweetest  and  the  happiest  under 
the  pencil.  Comfort  and  fertility  have  so  little  con- 
nection with  beauty,  and  are  not  unfrequently  her 
mortal  enemies.  No  one  stops  at  Srinagar;  if  he 
did  so,  it  might  not  improbably  turn  out  to  be  a  final 


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KASHMIR,  145 

stop.  You  here  abandon  the  tow-ropes,  and  the  men 
take  to  their  mode  of  rowing,  which  consists  of  beating 
the  water  with  paddles  shaped  Hke  a  broad  heart,  and 
with  these  they  push  along,  varying  their  measured 
strokes  with  an  occasional  presto  movement.  Thus 
you  mount  till  you  get  tD  a  large  and  imposing,  but 
uncouth,  building  on  your  right,  and  this  is  the  Sher 
Garhi,  or  Palace  of  the  Maharajah.  Opposite  to  this 
is  the  opening  of  a  canal,  into  which  you  turn  sharply 
on  the  left.  This  is  called  the  Sant-i-Kul,  or  Apple 
Tree  Canal — why,  I  know  not.  This  stream  connects 
the  Dal  with  the  Jhelum.  The  word  "Dal,"  I  was 
informed,  means  *'  lake ; "  so  of  course,  anglice,  we 
always  call  this  piece  of  water  the  **  Dal  Lake,"  i.e. 
the  Lake  Lake,  whereof  by-and-by.  After  about 
twenty  minutes'  paddling  up  this  canal,  which  is 
fairly  dressed  with  trees,  and  under  some  evening 
influences  looks  in  parts  extremely  pretty,  you  pass 
a  Hindoo  temple  on  your  left,  and  come  to  the 
"  Chenar  Bagh,"  or  "  Plane  Tree  Garden/'  on  your 
rijht.  Here  is  the  regulation  settlement  of  bachelor 
visitors,  who  pitch  their  tents  under  the  trees,  and 
those  who  bring  horses  with  them  stable  them  up 
behind.  The  banks  are  perfectly  flat,  as  is  all  the 
land  behind  it ;  and  it  is  most  important,  as  I  came 
to  prove,  to  choose  a  spot  where  you  are  not  liable  to 
be  swamped  when  the  canal  runs  high.  The  trees 
under  which  this  resting-place  is  established  are  fairly 
handsome,  but  admit  of  no  sort  of  comparison  with 
the  great  growth  of  the  same  tribe  elsewhere.  Here 
they  form  a  grove  of  shelter,  planted  together,  and 
look  remarkably  well  from  the  opposite  side.    Beyond 


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146  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

the  bend  of  the  canal  they  are  more  separate  and 
somewhat  finer. 

Well,  on  looking  back  at  my  diary,  here  I  appear 
to  have  passed  life  in  my  boat,  moving  up  and  down 
into  Srinagar  to  see  Bahar  Shah  and  to  other  places, 
spending  money  on  things  that  were  wanted,  and 
throwing  it  away  on  things  that  were  not,  until  the 
28th,  when  I  started  for  my  first  excursion,  which 
was  to  Islamabad,  completely  up  the  river.  But  I 
had  not  to  wait  beyond  the  first  morning  after  my 
arrival  before  receiving  another  proof — and  this  time 
an  important  one — of  the  benefits  I  had  derived  from 
Sir  Frederick  Roberts'  interruptions.  For  behold, 
on  Sunday,  the  21st,  there  appeared  before  me,  while 
seated  among  my  two  or  three  newly  purchased 
-wooden  chairs  under  the  trees,  Ummir  Nath,  the 
Maharajah's  representative  for  the  welcoming  of 
strangers,  to  whom,  indeed,  on  the  suggestion  of 
Colonel  Lister  Kaye,  I  had  previously  written.  And 
Ummir  Nath  most  courteously  informed  me  that, 
among  many  others,  I  was  to  have  a  card  of 
invitation  to  a  grand  dinner  at  the  Palace,  to  be  given 
by  his  Highness  the  Maharajah  Pertab  Sing  in  honour 
of  Sir  Frederick  Roberts  on  the  following  day,  viz. 
Monday,  the  22nd,  at  half-past  seven.  This  card 
now  lies  before  me,  and  it  is  easy  to  confess  that 
the  occasion  and  the  entire  novelty  of  the  whole  affair 
quite  chimed  in  with  my  inclination  for  travelling, 
curiosity  and  incident. 

At  the  proper  hour,  therefore,  on  Monday  evening, 
I  got  on  board  my  small  boat — my  gig — that  here 
waited  on  the  two  large,  and  was  paddled  down  to 


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KASHMIR.  147 

the  Palace  :  the  boatmen  feeling  very  grand — perhaps 
almost  as  grand  as  I  did.  But  on  mounting  the  high 
steps  and  threading  through  the  scarlet-carpeted 
corridors  towards  the  large  reception  room,  I  soon 
found  myself  but  a  very  small  item  in  the  grand 
number.  On  entering  the  saloon  among  the  assem- 
bled there  I  beheld  a  long  bench,  or  row,  of  seated 
celebrities,  occupying  the  whole  width  of  the  upper 
end  ;  his  Highness  the  Maharajah  ;  his  Excellency  Sir 
F.  Roberts  and  Lady  Roberts  and  a  son  ;  the  English 
Resident,  his  Excellency  Mr.  Nesbitt  ;  Captain 
Ramsay,  the  Master  of  Ceremonies,  and  many  others, 

"  Whom  not  to  know  argues  myself  unknown." 

There  was  a  sort  of  confusion  and  irregular 
grandeur  in  the  whole  scene,  which  was  considerably 
enhanced  by  the  gorgeous  dresses  of  some  of  the 
performers,  for  curiously  enough  the  entertainment 
preceded  the  feast.  First  came  the  Nach  (or  dancing) 
girls,  a  performance  of  which  I  am  wholly  un- 
appreciative ;  then  came  the  Thibet  dancers, 
gorgeously  arrayed  and  most  hideously  masked,  to 
the  extent  indeed  of  reminding  one  of  the  griffins 
at  the  entrances  of  the  Buddhists*  pagodas.  Heaven 
send  that  the  gods  themselves  are  not  after  all  like 
these.  Then  there  was  wild  howling  and  clanging 
music — that  is,  of  cymbals :  ugly  and  confused 
gestures  and  postures,  and  sounds  of  uneaithly 
portent  proceeding  from  a  chorus  of  vast  horns,  so 
vast  as  to  need  support  over  the  shoulders  of  more 
than  one  person,  and  of  length  as  unearthly  as  the 
sounds.     All  this  variety  of  attraction  occupied  much 

L  2 


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148  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

time,  and  then  came  the  dinner.  My  own  place  was 
marked,  and  the  card  given  me,  but  at  the  last 
moment  some  French  lady  made  a  confusion  at  that 
part  of  the  table  on  account  of  some  forlorn  friend, 
whereby  I  nearly  lost  my  place  altogether.  But  I 
was  happily  beckoned  by  an  authority  in  charge, 
I  believe  Captain  Ramsay,  to  come  and  sit  by  him  at 
the  bottom  of  the  table,  for  which  charitable  act  I  was 
very  glad,  and  of  which  I  was  very,  very  lucky  to  be 
in  time  to  avail  myself.  Here  I  was  well  placed  and 
well  taken  care  of,  and  I  shall  always  remember, 
with  deep  carnal  gratitude,  that  the  turkey  and  in 
particular  the  ham  were  as  good  as  any  I  have  ever 
tasted. 

When  the  repast  was  over,  and  all  were  well 
champagned  for  the  inevitable  conclusion,  his  Ex- 
cellency Sir  F.  Roberts,  the  chief  guest,  made  a  clear 
and  fitting  speech,  and  we  all  adjourned  to  coffee, 
and  presently  afterwards  to  fireworks.  These  were 
witnessed  from  one  of  the  balconies  :  they  were  pro- 
fuse and  noisy,  and  some  were  handsome.'  What  I 
was  particularly  struck  with  was  a  very  effective  back- 
ground to  all.  This  was  composed  of  a  very  large 
and  lofty  mass  of  wicker  work,  thoroughly  furnished 
with  an  infinity  of  lamps,  which  made  it  look  like 
a  long  screen  of  glittering  gold.  A  great  effect  was 
thus  produced  by  simple  means,  and  might  well  be 
imitated,  for  it  concentrated  and  intensified  all  that 
was  exhibited  in  front.  I  saw  the  Maharajah  more 
than  once,  walking  about  hand-in-hand  with  the 
Commander-in-Chief,  and  I  could  not  but  be  struck 
with  the  lifeless,  worn  and  discontented  expression 


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KASHMIR,  149 

of  his  countenance.  The  not  unusual  medley  of  de- 
parture on  such  occasions  prevailed  in  Srinagar,  as  in 
other  more  pretentious  places,  but  I  found  my  boat- 
men without  too  much  trouble,  and,  with  a  lantern  at 
the  prow,  rowed  home  beneath  a  starry  sky. 

The  next  day  I  entered  my  name  at  the  Palace, 
and  did  the  same  at  the  Residency  for  the  Resident 
and  for  the  Commander-in-Chief,  and  not  being  able 
to  leave  without  my  tents  and  other  paraphernalia, 
which  Bahar  Shah  was  arranging  for  me,  I  walked 
across  the  large  flat  space  behind  the  Chenar  Bagh 
to  the  small  library  on  the  river  banks,  and  sub- 
scribed Rs.  5  for  a  month's  entrance.  In  this 
district  also  lies  the  Post  Office,  and  to  and  fro 
I  several  times  repeated  this  monotonous  entertain- 
ment. At  length  all  necessary  preparations  were 
complete.  The  boatmen  in  both  boats  were  clothed 
by  me,  as  custom  required,  as  also  were  my  other 
men,  Mogul  John,  the  Khidmatgar,  or  valet;  the 
cook,  Bana  ;  the  waterman,  or  Bhcestie,  Camala  ;  the 
sweeper,  Samdu  ;  and  a  very  useful  and  active  young 
volunteer  servant,  Sedika,  or  Sedeeka,  by  name. 
This  youth  belonged  to  the  boat,  but  was  ambitious 
for  all  service,  and  was  a  son  of  one  of  the  boatmen, 
not  by  his  second  wife,  but  by  his  wife  No.  2. 

Thus  we  all  set  out  together  on  the  2Uh  of  April 
for  Islamabad,  and  hauled  up  for  the  night  on  the  flat 
bank,  at  a  place  called  Pampoor.  On  my  way  I 
caught  sight  of  the  small  stone  temple  at  Pandritan, 
or  Pooran  Adi  Sthan,  formerly  the  capital  of  Kash- 
mir. But  as  the  artistic  little  building  was  in  the 
middle  of  a  pool  of  water,  and  there  was  only  a  half- 


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150  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS, 

swamped  boat  at  hand,  I  deferred  to  trouble  myself 
about  trying  to  examine  it  until  my  return.  On 
Monday,  the  29th,  there  was  no  scenery  to  excite, 
the  river  banks  being  still  towing-paths,  and  the 
nearer  grounds  quite  flat;  and  on  Tuesday,  the  30th, 
I  completed  the  boat  course  at  a  place  called  Kanbal, 
where  I  spent  the  night.  I  must  not  omit  to  men- 
tion, however,  that  on  the  way  up  I  stopped  at  a  place 
called  Bijbehara,  and  mounted  a  high  bank,  attracted 
by  several  magnificent  chenar  trees.  On  arriving 
under  them  I  found  they  represented  the  broken  lines 
of  a  very  fine  original  avenue,  and  wandering  up 
and  down  I  came  across  another  visitor,  who  turned 
out  to  be  Lieut.  Blenkinsop  from  Allahabad,  in  the 
Veterinary  Department.  We  naturally  fell  into  con- 
versation, and  as  no  visionary  was  there,  we  were 
far  from  disagreeing  about  the  general  scenery  of 
Kashmir,  so  far  as  we  had  realized  it.  We  were 
equally  in  accord  about  the  splendour  of  the  chenars. 
He  luckily  had  a  tape  with  him,  with  which  vire 
measured  the  girth  of  one  of  these  trees  at  about 
five  feet  above  the  ground,  and  it  gave  a  circle  of 
between  thirty-eight  and  thirty-nine  feet.  It  was  of 
course  the  largest  of  the  noble  broken  line. 

At  Kanbal,  by  virtue  of  a  letter  from  Bahar  Shah, 
I  arranged  a  .very  pleasant  pony  and  saddle,  and 
came  on  next  morning  with  all  necessaries  for 
Atchibal.  This  was  an  easy  day's  march,  and  the 
tents  were  raised  under  a  group  of  beautiful  chenars, 
with  some  very  pretty  sloping  grounds  behind. 
Mountains  there  were  in  sight,  of  course,  and  the  road 
through    the    strange,    stony,    straggling    town    of 


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KASHMIR.  1 5 1 

Islamabad  was  peculiar  in  more  ways  than  one ;  but 
beyond  this  I  have  no  observation  to  make  about 
the  flat  scenery.  Here  at  Atchibal  are  the  tawdry 
remains  of  the  Maharajah's  gardens  and  fountains, 
which  are  famous  for  the  cold*water  springs.  All  is 
very  ragged,  and  gives  the  impression  of  having 
always  been  flimsy. 

The  next  day's  journey,  May  2nd,  was  one  of  much 
interest.     I  visited  the  ruined  Temple  of  Martand,  a 
word  which  is  said  to  mean  the  Sun.     Fergusson  has 
a  full  account  of  this  temple,  and  a  very  fair  illus- 
tration of  it.     It  is  by  no  means  large,  not  so  large 
as  the    temple    at  Jerusalem,  which,    according  to 
Prideaux,  was  small  enough  ;  but  it  exhibits  features 
of  great  beauty  and  elaboration.     It  is  surrounded  by 
a  courtyard,  fenced  in  by  a  beautiful  open    screen 
work  of  stone ;  and  curiously  enough,  recurring  to 
Pandritan,   General  Cunningham  (whom  Fergusson 
quotes)  opines  that  this  inner  court  was  originally 
filled  with  water.     The  temple  stands  grandly  alone, 
and   a  most   impressive   view   of  it   is   obtained  by 
ascending  a  small  eminence  behind   it,  and  gazing 
down  upon  the  structure.     It  stands  in  a  vast  flat 
valley,   but   here  the  flatness  was  effective,   for  the 
distant  higher  hills  or  mountains  round  were,  when 
I  stood   there,    covered   with   snow,   and   were   dis- 
playing   a   most    effective    amphitheatre.      I    spent 
some  time  hovering  about  the  scene,  so  glad  to  feel 
my  interest  at  last  excited,  and,  to  the  relief  of  my 
wondering  and    perhaps  pitying  attendants,   at  last 
moved  on  to  Bawan  Springs  in  Mutten. 
Passing  through  the  ragged  little  town,  we  came  to 


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152  WANDERINGS   AND    IVONDERINGS. 

another  beautiful  plantation  of  chenars,  shading  a 
rushing  crystal  stream  of  water ;  and  here,  in  a  spot 
fairly  picturesque,  I  dined  and  tented  for  the  night. 
And  here  also  I  once  more  reaped  a  benefit  from 
the  visit  of  the  Commander-in-Chief.  **  What  is  that 
affair  under  the  trees  ? "  "  Oh !  that  is  Bana^s 
delight.  It  is  a  sort  of  cooking  apparatus  ;  it  was 
built  up  for  the  Commander-in-Chief  when  his  Excel- 
lency was  here."  And  this  was  the  last.  And  after 
all,  how  fortunate,  in  the  main,  I  was  in  following 
Sir  Frederick  Roberts  into  Kashm'r,  and  what  an 
unknown  debt  of  gratitude  I  owe  to  one  who  at  first 
slightly  injured,  and  afterwards  so  effectually,  albeit 
so  unconsciously,  befriended  me. 

While  at  Bawan  I  was  induced  to  visit  what  are 
called  the  Caves  of  Bhoomjoo,  to  which  the  word 
*^  pilgrimage  '^  is  attached.  They  He  about  a  mile 
distant  from  the  chenars,  and  iti  Ince's  Guide  Book, 
edited  by  Joshua  Duke,  may  be  found  a  page  and  a 
half  with  all  particulars  ;  but  for  myself  I  have  not 
even  a  word  and  a  half  to  spend  upon  these  mere 
uncouth  hallows.  The  road  to  them,  however, 
enabled  me  to^  obtain  a  sight  of  the  immediate  pros- 
pect outside  the  chenars,  which  is  pleasing  enough. 
There  are  some  folding  hills  of  attractive  feature,  and 
one  black  rock,  capped  with  snow,  added  character 
to  the  general  view. 

On  Friday,  May  3rd,  I  rode  to  Eishmakam,  a 
pleasant  ride,  but  not  calling  for  special  observation. 
The  valley,  as  all  these  valleys-  are,  was  flat,  but  the 
town  and  its  fortress  are  on  an  elevation  ;  and  having 
pitched  my  tent  on  a  pleasant  piece  of  ground  under 


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KASHMIR.  153 

a  fine  walnut  tree,  I  mounted  to  the  Fort.  Hence 
the  view  is  striking.  You  behold  a  good  stretch 
of  the  Liddar  Valley,  but  it  is  flat  as  a  table,  of 
course. 

In  this  case,  however,  it  is  well  wooded,  and  for  the 
first  time  I  saw  some  show  of  the  hills  sloping  down 
in  junction  with  the  \  alley,  a  feature  wholly  wanting 
in  the  main  Vale.  There  was  also  a  fine  range  of 
mountains,  still  snowy.  You  may  well  imagine  that 
Eishmakam  is  a  strange  rocky  place;  and  in  the 
fortress  you  may  visit  a  5trange  tomb  of  a  Holy 
Muhammadan,  Jhan  Shah,  who  lies  buried  in  the 
long  recess  of  a  ragged  chasm.  On  the  morning  of 
the  4th,  I  started  for  the  reputed  "  lovely "  Liddar 
Valley,  and  was  to  tent  for  the  night  at  a  place  called 
Pylgam;  and,  my  feelings  of  "great  expectations" 
not  having  yet-  been  completely  cowed,  I  was  sub- 
jected to  the  cold  fit  of  what  I  find  I  have  called  in 
my  journal,  "complete  disappointment."  I  must 
give  my  written  evidence  fairly  and  honestly,  and 
quote  the  words  :  "  The  valley  is  of  mere  third-rate 
Swiss  scenery.  It  is  flat ;  and  in  parts  full  of  flooded 
rice  grounds.  There  are,  of  course,  green  mountains 
and  certain  winter-snow  crags ;  but,  barring  one  or 
two  grassy  slopes  and  hanging  woods,  nothing 
charms  or  enchains  attention.  The  journey  is  one 
of  fourteen  miles  to  Pylgam,  and  Pylgam  itself  is 
distinctly  ugly.  A  few  ragged  dwellings  on  an  ugly 
stony  flat  constitutes  the  town  ;  the  river  struggles 
along  among  the  boulders  in  various  narrow  streams, 
before  becoming  a  rushing  unity  lower  down,  and 
tenting  space  was  difficult  to    find,    though  here  I 


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154  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/NGS. 

passed  the  night."     With  this  extract  I  must  be  con- 
tent to  report  of  Pylgam  and  the  Liddar  Valley. 

The  next  morning  proved  very  fresh  and  fine,  and 
my  ride  back  to  my  walnut  tree  was  pleasant,  break- 
fasting and  lounging  in  the  sunshine  on  the  way. 
On  the  6th,  through  those  tedious  rice  grounds  of 
Kashmir,  I  came  back  to  the  chcnars  at  Bawan 
Springs.  Here,  to  my  satisfaction,  I  found  two 
arrivals  ;  Captain  and  Mrs.  Harries  were  tented  under 
the  trees,  and  we  joined  tables  pleasantly,  both  quite 
concurring  with  me  as  to  the  caves  I  have  referred  to. 
Towards  evening  a  beautiful  white  bird  flew  tamely 
close  before  my  tent,  which  Captain  Harries  told  me 
was  called  the  Bird  of  Paradise  of  Kashmir.  But  in 
reality  it  is  no  Bird  of  Paradise  at  all,  though  very 
beautiful.  It  is  covered  all  over  with  long  white 
feathers,  and  has  a  long  tail  following  behind  it  like 
a  comet's.  I  could  not  get  the  real  name  of  it,  and 
so  must  leave  it  hallowed  by  belonging  to  the  un- 
known, and  with  the  impression,  which  the  astonished 
sense  of  sight  has  left  upon  my  memory,  of  having 
seen  a  winged  comet  among  the  trees. 

Returning  on  the  7th  to  Kanbal  on  the  river,  I 
purposely  walked  on  foot  through  Islamabad,  which, 
for  its  curious  people,  mosque,  and  general  character, 
is  worth  that  trouble,  if  you  go  through  it  at  all. 

I  was  now  to  return  to  the  Chenar  Bagh,  and,  on 
my  way  down  the  flat-banked  river,  I  visited  some 
very  scant  remains  at  Wantipur,  and  afterwards  made 
a  more  successful  effort  at  Pandritan  than  I  had 
done  in  coming  up.  By  the  help  of  Camala,  my 
waterman,  and   Samdu,  my  sweeper,  I  managed  to 


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KASHMIR.  1 55 

get  the  awfully  cranky  boat  baled  out^  and  as  the 
dead  duckweed  pool  that  surrounded  the  little 
temple  among  the  willow  trees  was  only  forty  yards 
square,  we  succeeded  in  the  voyage  to  and  fro  with- 
out shipwreck.  The  structure  is  a  hollow  square, 
each  of  the  four  sides  having  an  open  arch,  and  the 
centre  forming  a  cupola.  There  was  just  room  to 
push  the  boat  quite  underneath,  so  as  to  view  the 
centre.  The  little  affair  is  deeply  and  elaborately 
adorned,  and  is  in  its  way  quite  a  little  gem  ;  so 
that  our  small  duckweed  enterprise  with  a  leaky 
boat  was  rewarded  by  the  sight.  And  here  stands 
this  comparative  speck  of  architecture,  solitary  amon^ 
its  willows,  sole  remnant,  if  legend  be  believed,  of 
the  once  capital  of  Kashmir.  It  lies  only  some  half 
hour's  walk  from  the  Ram  Munshi  Bagh,  close  by 
the  Chenar  Bagh,  and  may  thus  be  easily  seen  by  any 
of  those  few  who  may  care  for  such  a  visit.  This 
Ram  Munshi  Bagh  is  the  Bagh  set  apart  for  fami- 
lies. I  walked  through  it  instead  of  continuing  in 
the  boat,  without  regretting  that  I  was  not  qualified  to 
dwell  there  ;  it  seemed  to  me  to  be  shut  in,  and  not 
to  be  well  supplied  with  water.  As  we  walked  along 
from  Pandritan,  Camala  shook  me  down  a  quantity 
of  small  mulberries  from  time  to  time  from  large 
trees.  But  I  had  far  better  mulberries  than  thase 
later  on,  Kashmir  being  deservedly  famed  for  that 
delicious  fruit  of  mournful  association. 

The  weather  had  been  wet  and  unpleasant,  and 
my  boat  matting  had  flapped  much  during  my 
return ;  and  when,  on  the  evening  of  the  8th,  I  re- 
occupied  my  tent,  that  flapped  in  concord.     Indeed, 


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15^  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINCS. 

I  too  well  remember  that  about  this  time  the  weather 
did  begin  to  be  very  uncertain,  or  rather  certain  to 
be  rainy  and  windy  and  unpleasant,  and  on  the 
night  of  the  loth  I  find  I  have  marked  a  very  heavy 
thunderstorm.  The  tent  that  I  had  travelled  about 
with  was  now  changed  fora  new  one,  and  until  the  i6th 
I  passed  a  not  very  joyous  time  under  my  adored 
chenars,  while,  with  very  little  intermission,  their 
heavy  foliage  flung  quantities  of  water  down  upon  my 
double  roof,  and  amid  unmusical  tones  of  droppings, 
my  waterman  was  employed  in  cutting  and  keeping 
clear  an  improvised  earth  gutter  round  my  canvas 
walls. 

This  bad  weather  was  enlivened  or  darkened  by  a 
small  discovery  that  somewhat  concerned  my  domes- 
tic economy  ;  for  word  was  brought  to  me  by  my 
cook  and  waterman  that  my  "  bearer  " — a  corruption, 
as  I  believe,  of  the  word  behrd — Mogul  John,  was 
habitually  getting  partly  or  wholly  tipsy,  and  that  he 
had  boasted  in  his  cups  that  he  could  rob  me  of  my 
whisky  at  night,  by  getting  hold  of  the  bottle  under 
the  pegged  sides  of  my  tent ;  indeed,  that  he  had  done 
so  more  than  once  already.  I  therefore  enlivened 
the  monotony  of  water  by  a  private  examination  of 
the  accused,  as  to  spirit  He  began  to  equivocate, 
and  persisted,  till  I  threatened  to  throw  him  into  the 
canal.  Thereupon  he  roundly  denied  the  charge, 
whereupon  the  witnesses  were  called,  and  confronted 
with  him.  The  trial  took  place,  and  ^'  Guilty  "  was 
then  with  perfect  facility  pleaded.  I  had  more  than 
once  suspected  him  of  drinking,  and  I  had  now  to 
add  lying  and  theft.     I  don't  suppose  he  has  ever 


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KASHMIR.  '  1 57 

offered  himself  again,  but  k  is  best  to  record  his 
name  and  character ;  add  to  which,  on  dech'ning  to 
settle  his  book  except  through  Bahar  Shah,  a  deduc- 
tion of  what  the  Stock  Exchange  would  call  five- 
eighths  was  made  of  his  bloated  total.  All  the  rest 
were  honest  and  straightforward  to  the  end ;  but 
travellers  should  be  upon  their  guard.  Yet,  even  so, 
they  may  be  deceived  ;  for  this  person  was  on  Messrs. 
Cook's  list.  Muhammadanism  had  not  kept  Mogul 
John  pure ;  whether  he  was  Sunni  or  Shia,  he  wor- 
shipped the  bottle  more  religiously  than  he  did  the 
prophet. 

One  fine  afternoon  was  too  tempting  to  be  lost,  and 
I  accepted  an  invitation  from  Mr.  Gordon,  a  barrister 
from  Allahabad  and  a  tented  neighbour  in  company 
with  Lieutenant  Blenkinsop,  to  take  a  row  round  the 
Dal.  Anyone  who  has  read  Moore's  exquisite  non- 
sense about  the  Dal  in  his  Lalla  Rookh — that  blind 
product  of  *'  the  encouraging  suggestions  of  friends  " 
— ought  to  anticipate  disappointment ;  and  by  thus 
meeting  that  enemy  half  way,  he  is  not  likely  to  be 
too  keenly  overcome.  The  water,  as  it  rushes  out 
from  the  entrance,  is  of  a  lovely  crystal,  and  so  it  is 
inside  wherever  you  can  catch  a  good  view  of  it — 
beautifully  crystal.  But  where  do  you  see  it  ? 
Even  the  guide  book  persuades  itself  to  have  courage 
enough  to  tell  plain  truth  here.  Its  main  surface  is 
covered  with  dense  belts  of  gigantic  reeds,  bulrushes, 
and  floating  gardens,  these  last  with  something  of  a 
pretty  name,  being,  as  I  had  once  found  them  at 
Mexico  city,  ugly  and  shapeless  lumps  of  dirt  bound 
roughly  together. 


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158  IVA.WDER/XGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

The  feature  that  attracts  attention  here  is  that 
exhibited  by  the  mountains  which  encircle  the  lake, 
particularly  towards  the  abandoned  palace,  called 
Peri  Mahal,  not  far  from  which  stood  one  lonely  tree, 
like  a  mourner  o'er  the  dead.  Here  the  slopes  are 
charming,  and  the  crystal  water  has  been  somewhat 
spared,  to  reverberate  the  sun  and  shade,  and  to  repeat 
these  pleasing  shores  downwards  on  its  thus  attractive 
surface.  So  also  there  is  some  fine  grouping  near  a 
spot  called  Chashma  Shahi,  or  "  Royal  Spring,"  of 
which  I  shall  speak  more  at  length  before  I  leave 
Kashmir.  In  companionship  the  afternoon  passed 
pleasantly  enough  ;  we  manoouvred  our  way  through 
all  impediments,  and  the  evening  concluded  with  a  • 
quiet  tented  entertainment. 


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XVI. 

My  next  excursion  was  to  include  the  Sind  Valley. 

This  lies  upon  the  road  to  Lay,  the  capital  of  Ladak  ; 

and  I  followed  it  to  somewhat  beyond  Sonamerg — 

merg  signifying  meadow.    But  there  were  other  spots 

to  be  visited  on  the  road  thither  and  on  the  return. 

It  was  on  the  afternoon  of  Wednesday,  the  22nd  of 

May,  that  I  made  my  start ;  but  the  early  morning 

of  that  day  I  had  already  devoted,  at  the  earnest 

desire  of  Camala,  to  a  climb  to  the  Temple  called 

Takti   Suleiman,  or  Throne  of  Solomon.     Here,  I 

must  ask  you  to  believe  among  other  matters  told  of 

that  same  monarch,  that  King  Solomon  used  from 

time  to  time  to  sit  "in  all  his  glory."     The  climb  is 

smart  and  rough  enough,  as  many  paths  have  been 

to   many  thrones.     And  when   you   get  to   it,  the 

Temple  is  as  little  worth  the  trouble  as  has  happened 

to  be  the  case  with  many  thrones.     The  height  is 

6000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  1000  above  the  Chenar 

Bagh.    When  there,  you  cannot  fail,  in  some  respects, 

to  be  impressed  with  the  view.     In  the  distance  you 

sec  many  folding  hills,  and  winter-snow  mountains  ; 

while  below  you  cannot  but  remark  the  very  curiously 

sinuous  course  of  the  Jhelum,  displaying  a  pattern  on 

theground,  to  which  an  oft-repeated  legend  attributes 

the  invention  of  that  well-known  pattern  on  the  old- 

fashioned  Kashmir  shawl.    And,  so  far  as  this  pattern 


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l6o  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

is  concerned,  the  extreme  flatness  of  the  Vale  well 
serves  to  exhibit  the  effect  of  the  laid-out  shawl.  The 
colouring  of  all  the  view  was  charming  at  that  early 
hour,  for  I  had  started  at  about  five  o'clock. 

In  the  afternoon,  then,  in  spite  of  there  being 
some  grand  out-door  entertainment  by  the  Maha- 
rajah, which  was  open  to  all,  and  my  stores  and 
all  other  necessaries  being  on  board,  I  started 
with  my  two  boats,  but  in  cold  and  comfortless 
weather,  for  Aloos,  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Woolar  Lake.  This  was  to  be  my  to-morrow  night's 
station,  and  an  anchorage  down  stream  was  to 
serve  for  the  night,  and  my  first  visit  was  to  be  to 
the  Lolab  Valley.  Leaving  early  on  the  following 
morning,  I  found  we  must  diverge  from  the  passage 
by  the  Noru  Canal,  which  lies  on  the  way  from  Sopur 
to  Srinagar,  in  order  to  get  to  the  lake,  which  we 
reached  at  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  Here, 
in  a  marshy,  weedy  corner,  the  boatmen  proposed  to 
stop.  On  my  naturally  expostulating  they  talked  of 
'^hawa"  upon  the  lake.  This  is  a  very  dangerous 
and  well-known  storm  of  rain  and  gusty,  high  wind, 
funnelled  through  the  surrounding  hills  and  mountains, 
and  working  up  shallow  and  confined  waters  to  the 
destruction  of  flat- bottomed  boats.  But  all  was  peace 
and  quiet  now;  and  it  was  only  a  corresponding  state 
of  quietu&e,  vulgarly  called  laziness,  that  reigned 
within  the  boatmen's  breasts.  They  were,  however, 
soon  roused  by  a  not  very  tempestuous  vocal  breeze, 
and  we  crossed  the  lake  at  leisure,  with  which  I  will 
not  pretend  to  have  been  greatly  charmed,  though  it 
is  not  wholly  without  feature.     The  water  is  shallow, 


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KASHMIR.  l6l 

and  was  very  muddy  and  weedy,  and  Aloos  was  little 
better  than  the  spot  whence  I  had  worried  the  boat- 
men. But  there  is  some  show  of  folding  hills  and 
valleys  round  about. 

Ponies  and  coolies  were  ready  at  early  morning, 
and  I  was  glad  to  get  away  and  begin  to  ascend.  We 
were  to  mount  a  considerable  ridge  in  order  to 
descend  to  the  Lolab  Valley  on  the  other  side,  and  it 
was  a  very  stiff  and  not  very  interesting  mount.  But 
my  eyes  and  ears  were  now  and  then  regaled  by 
the  well-known  whitethorn  in  full  bloom  and  by  th» 
far  from  unknown  voice  of  the  cuckoo.  At  last  w^ 
came  to  the  summit ;  and  there,  in  a  small  but  beau- 
tiful woodland  scene,  at  a  turn  to  my  left  into  a  path 
that  led  to  Sopur,  I  breakfasted  under  a  very  fine  old 
forest  tree. 

A  little  farther  on  I  was  to  pass  out  of  this  broad 
belt  of  shade,  and  to  look  down  on  Lolab,  far  below. 
Accordingly,  I  walked  through  alone,  in  order  that  I 
might  enjoy  alone  the  promised  opening.  Shortly 
I  issued  from  the  wood,  and  all  was  before  me.  What 
was  my  sudden,  but  enduring,  impression  ?  Simply 
that  I  would  go  no  farther.  Below  me,  strikingly 
far  down,  lay  the  valley,  flat  as  a  floor;  and  not 
only  so  but  flooded  with  rice  cultivation  ."Oh!" 
I  was  told,  **  certainly,  yes,  there  is  much  rice ;  but 
Lalpur  has  some  very  pretty  walks."  Very  good  ;  but 
I  did  not  undertake  Kashmir  for  a  "  pretty  walk,"  nor 
surely  for  the  guide-book's  entertainment  of  "  ten  or 
twelve  daySy  marching  about  from  village  to  village.'' 
Right  or  wrong,  I  turned  from  flooded  rice-grounds. 
The  surrounding  hills  were  commonplace  to  me,  and 

M 


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1 62  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

I  am  quite  content  to  be  abused  for  my  something 

more  unpleasant   even   than    indifference.     "Where 

can  we  go  now?"  said  I,  in  not  the  best  of  moods, 

and   intending   inwardly  simply  to   go   back.      But 

Camala  saved  me  this.     "There   is   Nagmerg"   he 

said  ;  "  that  lies  up  here."     We  had  turned  back  into 

the  wood,  and  he  pointed  to  a  rising  ground  to  my 

then  left,  and  therefore  in  a  direct  line  opposite  to 

what  had  been  my  breakfast-ground.     "Anything^," 

I  said,  "rather   than    doing   nothing,  except  going 

down  to  the  Lolab."     So  that  path  we  took,  and  I 

certainly  do  not  repent  it.     We  were  soon  in  the 

midst  of  a  very  undulating — indeed,  almost  precipitous 

— forest,  well  clothed,  but  not  too  closely  so,  with  fine 

trees ;  and  on  an  extensive  bank,  rising  before  me,  I 

presently  beheld  an  immense  sheet  of  forget-me-nots 

in  full  bloom,  offering  a  spread  of  flowering  azure 

that  was  quite  new  to  me  among  these  flowers.     But 

this  was   adventitious.      The   general    scenery  was 

standard  and  permanent,  and  I  could  recommend  any 

one  to  visit  Nagmerg,  though  the  climb  is  severe.     It 

presents  a  fine,  widely  undulating  surface  of  mountain 

meadow,  beautifully  fringed  with  forest  edges,  not  of 

merely  pine,  but  of  fine  round-headed  timber;  thus 

calling  to  mind   the  description  of  the   picturesque 

which  Gilpin  gives  in  his  "  Forest  Scenery,"  where  an 

irregular  base  forms  bays  and  promontcriesoi  foliage. 

From  both  sides,  that  is,  front  and  back,  the  views  are 

most  striking.     The  one  looking  towards  the  Vale  I 

saw.     The  one  looking  in  the  opposite  direction  I 

did  not  see  ;  for  my  weather  was  very  unpropitious, 

and  I  consequently  lost  one  whole  day,  not  cnly  in 


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KASHMIR.  163 

tent,  but,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  in  bed.     It 
was  of  no  use  to  get  up. 

From  the  northern  side,  the  great  mountain  Nunga 
Purbat  can  be  seen  ;  but  him   I  saw  afterwards,  of 
which  anon.     Towards  the  Vale  the  view  is  really 
grand.    You  look  completely  down  the  vast  gorge 
you  have  been  climbing,  and  the  lake  and  all  its 
shores  are  visible  far  below.      In  the  very  farthest 
distance  you  get  a  long  range  of  snow  mountains;  and 
between  them  and  the  lake  you  have  the  intermediate 
flats,  effective  from  this  point,  because  decked  out 
specially  by  the  River  Jhelum,  which  trails  directly 
towards  the  eye  in   one   long  approaching  line   of 
distant  silver.     Short  was  my  evening  view,  however. 
For  the  next  morning  the  weather  was  at  war  with 
everything ;  and  thunder  and  lightning  of  the  moun- 
tain's force,  loaded  with  violent  hail,  swept  the  whole 
country  round,  and  made  it  quite  impossible  to  movc# 
While  it  lulled  towards  the  afternoon,  my  solitude 
was  enlivened  by  a  visit  from  a  Captain  Balfour,  who 
kindly  walked  towards  my  tent  to   make  inquiries, 
and  who  gave  me  certain  useful  hints  about  Lake 
Manasbal  and  the  Sind  Valley,  confirming  me  also 
in  the  wisdom  of  my  determination  not  to  descend 
to  the  Lolab. 

On  the  morning  of  Sunday,  May  26th,  I  came 
down  again  to  Aloos,  and  took  to  the  boats:  and 
down  indeed  it  was.  My  men  and  pony  coolies 
recommended  it,  the  latter  naturally,  for  I  had  to 
come  on  foot,  and  now  and  then  on  something  else 
besides.  But  the  green  rugged  scene  was  extremely 
picturesque.  On  turning  out  of  the  river,  the  next 
M  2 

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164  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDEKINGS. 

day,  to  get  to  Manasbal,  the  scenery  became  ex- 
tremely pretty.  The  surrounding  hills  sloped  plea- 
santly towards  the  water,  which  was  of  a  perfect  crystal, 
and  our  lenting-ground  was  under  some  handsome 
chenars  at  the  head  ;  and  here  I  had  the  good  fortune 
to  meet  again  my  neighbours  of  Atchibal,  Captain 
and  Mrs.  Harries. 

Here  I  stayed  four  days,  moving  about  in  one  way 
or  another,  an  J  was  one  day  much  amused  by  at- 
tending a  fishing  excursion,  where  the  fish  were  caught 
with  nothing  more  nor  less  than  mulberry  bait,  which 
they  eagerly  snatched.  What  they  were  worth  when 
caught,  I  am  not  competent  authority  to  say.  But 
talking  of  mulberries,  for  which  Kashmir,  as  I  have 
.said,  is  famous,  there  was  an  old  Fakir  living  below 
our  chenars.  at  the  lake-side,  who  brought  us  every 
moniing,  before  breakfast,  some  of  this  delicious  fruit, 
fresh  gathered  from  his  own  garden.  It  was  daintily 
set  out  in  a  little  wicker  saucer,  lined  with  fresh 
chenar-leaves,  and  decked  with  blossoms  of  the  wild 
single  rose,  carefully  sprinkled  on  the  purple  fruit. 
We  went  down  to  pay  him  a  visit,  and  to  walk 
through  his  garden  ;  and  he  showed  us,  with  much 
quiet  satisfaction,  a  long  natural  tunnel,  made  longer 
by  his  labour,  in  the  hill  behind  his  house,  which  was 
to  be  his  tomb.  Nor  are  they  merely  Kashmir  Fakirs 
whose  vanity  extends  to  tombs. 

The  weather  had  been  unsettled,  but  was  improv- 
ing, and  on  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  May  my 
attention  was  attracted  by  a  small  group  of  shepherds 
driving  some  thousands  of  sheep  up  the  mountain 
for  pasture.     This,  1  was  informed,  showed  they  con- 


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KASHMIR.  165 

sidered  the  weather  might  now  be  depended  on  as 
settled,  so  I  followed  its  expected  example,  and  began 
to  settle  my  own  mind  ;  this  time,  for  a  start  on  my 
excursion  up  the  Sind  Valley.  And  this  I  made  on 
Saturday  morning,  the  ist  of  June. 

The  excursion,  as  far  as  Sonamerg,  comprehends 
four  stations  on  the  road  from  Srinagar  to  Ley  in 
Ladock.  There  are  altogether  (Duke's  Ince,  p.  239) 
nineteen  of  these,  and  the  whole  distance  given  is 
260  miles.  The  same  book  says  that  "  many  visitors," 
even  those  *'  who  do  not  care  for  sport  "  (which  will 
take  Englishmen  anywhere)  '*  simply  "  (very  simply  ?) 
"march  to  Ley  for  the  benefit  of  the  exercise.'' 
Considering  the  sort  of  country  to  be  travelled  over, 
and  to  be  repeated  on  return,  such  a  proceeding 
might  be  termed  a  strong  application  of  the  principle 
of  exercise,  at  the  end  of  which  it  is  quite  possible 
the  "visitor"  might  find  himself  very  much  "exer- 
cised "  indeed.  That  my  good  host,  Colonel  Lister 
Kaye,  went  many  days  into  the  mountains,  I  know 
by  his  messages  into  Srinagar.  But  he  went  to  shoot 
the  ibex,  and,  from  what  I  gathered,  had  been  suc- 
cessful. For  myself,  had  I  been  in  every  respect, 
perhaps,  different  from  what  I  was,  I  might  have 
ventured  on  the  same  arduous  enterprise,  but  in  no 
case  would  I  have  gone  to  Ley  for  mere  exercise. 
The  little  run  to  Sonamerg — some  forty-five  miles — 
was  all  I  went  for.  It  is  so  easy  to  write  things  in 
books.  I  was  told  by  a  recently  returned  sportsman 
that  the  road  becomes  fatiguing,  tedious,  and  mono- 
tonous  in  the  extreme. 

To  Sonamcrj,  then,  let  us  go,  and  tent  at  Kangan, 


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1 66  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

at  about  twelve  miles*  distance.  Thence,  next  day, 
to  Gund,  another  fourteen.  Then,  next  day,  to 
Gagangir,  another  nine.  And  thence,  on  the  fourth 
and  last  day,  to  Sonamerg,  another  ten.  Here  I 
found  an  extensive  undulating  rocky  meadow  ground, 
dressed  on  some  of  the  slopes  with  timber,  but  alto- 
gether somewhat  naked  ;  surrounded  at  greater  or 
lesser  distances  with  mountains,  which  were  some- 
what interlaced  in  the  direction  of  Ladakh.  Here  an 
entomologist,  who  had  been  with  me,  and  of  whom  I 
will  speak  anon,  left  me  at  once,  as  he  was  pressing  for- 
ward on  his  far  longer  journey  ;  and  here  my  solitude 
was  enlivened  by  the  presence  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Blisset, 
he,  I  believe,  being  at  the  head  of  the  telegraph 
service. 

Of  this  my  journey  to  Sonamerg,  I  wish  to  say  that 
it  was  by  far  the  most  generally  interesting  and 
engaging  of  all  my  Kashmir  wanderings.  There  are, 
of  course,  many  of  us  who  want  to  see  everything, 
wherever  we  may  go ;  and,  not  only  so,  but  who 
measure  the  beauty  and  curiosity  of  everything  they 
see  by  the  distance  that  it  lies  from  home.  To  these 
I  do  not  speak  :  but  to  others  I  should  say.  Content 
yourself  with  this  visit  to  Sonamerg,  or  if  you  will 
add,  add  Nagmerg.  Of  Gulmerg  I  say  nothing, 
because  I  did  not  go  there  ;  but  from  what  I  gathered, 
its  recommendations,  without  unnecessarily  detracting 
from  its  features,  are  more  noted  for  society  than  for 
scenery,  and  this  must  always  be  a  great  object  in 
Indian  furloughs. 

One  great  advantage  in  the  Sind  River  or  Valley 
excursion  is  that  as  you  advance  the  scenery  cul- 


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KASHMIR,  167 

minates.     When  I  first  turned  into  the  side  valley, 
after  about  three-quarters  of   an  hour's  ride,  I  fell 
into    a   dead    stretch    of   those    interminable    flat, 
wet  rice-grounds  that  deform   Kashmir,  and  which 
illustrate,  in  the  most  forcible  manner  possible,  what 
I  have  repeatedly  affirmed,  that  fertility  may  present 
ugly  landscapes ;  and  if  rice-fields  do  not,  what  does  ? 
But  in  this  present  case  there  was  a  fine  apse  of  moun- 
tains  before  me,  not    gigantic    by  any  means,  but 
large ;   and  towards  these  one   may  direct  the  eye. 
In  perhaps  two  hours  you  leave  these  undelectable 
and  unwholesome  spreads,  and  arrive  for  breakfast  on 
grass,  and  under  trees.     Thence  onwards  the  scenery 
improves ;  the  ground  is  rough  and  picturesque,  and 
presently  there  opens  a  remarkably  striking  perspec- 
tive of  the  valley  before  you,  with  heavily  wooded 
slopes.     In  a  short  afternoon  ride  of  three  hours  we 
came  to  the  evening's  halt  at  Kangan,  and  tented  on 
a  charming  spot.     The  slopes  on    the    right   were 
densely  wooded,  with  very  varied  foliage,  and  on  the 
left  were  bulky  grassy  lumps  of  almost  mountains. 
One  great  companion  in  this  journey  is  the  noisy, 
rushing  river  Sind.     And  what  a  companion  a  really 
running  river  is  !     Even  if  it  is  running  against  you 
it  is  one  ;  and  how  much  more  so  is  it  when  it  runs 
with  you  and  beckons  you  on  with  "  follow  me,"  as 
so  many  of  us  have  long  since  proved,  through  the 
beautiful  slopes  among  the  walnuts  and  sweet  chest- 
nuts of  the  Italian  Switzerland. 

But  during  these  two  or  three  days  I  had  another 
companion  also — I  mean  the  entomologist  I  have 
already  mentioned.     He  was  travelling  for  a  Society, 


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1 68  WANDERINGS  AND    VVONDERINGS. 

and  he  had  come  out  into  these  remote  districts,  and 
was  bound  for  a  certain  altitude,  far  off  still,  in  order 
to  investigate  and  report  upon  a  certain  question: 
whether  a  certain  given  butterfly  was  to  be  found  at 
that  altitude.  This  may  sound  trifling  to  some  ;  but 
It  was  an  inquiry  into  nature,  and  worth  a  great  deal 
more  than  many  erudite  wranglings.  He  was 
wrapped  up  in  his  research,  and  full  of  information 
in  his  sphere.  He  had  also  secured  several  varieties, 
which  he  showed  me,  in  gazing  on  which  (reminding 
me  of  rougher  sport  of  this  class  in  almost  schoolboy 
days)  I  wondered  not  more  at  the  specimens  than  at 
the  artistic  method  of  the  packing.  A  pursuit  of  this 
kind  carried  to  this  extent  might  seem  unaccountable 
to  some  ;  but  to  me  it  seemed  far  and  far  more  enter- 
taining than  walking  260  miles  to  Ley,  and  back 
again,  for  exercise. 

At  7.30  on  the  following  morning  we  started  for 
Gund,  still  following  up  the  rushing  stream,  now 
milky  with  snow  and  glacier  water  ;  and  with  scenery 
always  improving,  and  satisfying  the  craving  thirst 
for  Kashmir  gorges,  without  flats  and  rice-grounds. 
And  here  I  may  call  to  mind  the  constant  companion- 
ship of  wild  flowers.  The  rose  of  Kashmir  sounds 
more  romantic  and  suggestive,  than  the  Kashmir 
rose  ;  but  the  blossom  itself,  by  whichever  name 
called,  is  pleasing  in  its  modesty,  and  grows  in  modest 
places  and  on  a  modest  bush.  At  all  events,  it  is 
far  more  engaging  than  the  Rose  of  Sharon,  or  the 
flower  that  was  shown  me  in  Syria  under  that  name. 
It  shows  of  course  a  single  blossom  only ;  but  how 
much  more  of  sympathy  there  really  is  in  the  speak- 


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KASHMIR.  169 

ing  countenance  of  a  single  blossom,  with  its  smiling 
eye,  than  in  a  pursed-up  double  one,  without  a 
countenance  at  all !  The  difference  between  the  two 
I  have  always  interpreted  to  myself  as  this— the 
single  blossom  says,  **  Tm  looking  at  you/'  while  the 
double  says,  "  Look  at  me."  Biit  a  quite  peculiar 
feature  in  the  Kashmir  bush  is  that  the  blossoms 
grow  on  the  long  straight  branches'  from  end  to  end 
in  a  regular  row,  one  after  another,  so  that  by  bend- 
ing one  of  these  into  a  circle  you  have  at  once  a 
perfect  and  unpretending  chaplet;  which,  in  all  its 
simplicity,  might  strikingly  adorn  a  lady's  brow.  I 
could  not  but  recall  four  French  lines  I  have  read 
in  one  of  Isaac  Disraeli's  charming  volumes — the 
first  of  his  "Curiosities  of  Literature."  He  quotes 
them  from  among  those  many  that  were  written  on 
the  famous  "  Poetical  Garland  of  Julia  ; "  and  although 
it  is  the  violet  that  speaks  them,  they  might,  with  a 
little  indulgence,  if  not  strictly,  be  spoken  by  the 
Rose  of  Kashmir : — 


It 


<rc  t  / 


**  Modeste  en  ma  couleur,  modeste  en  mon  S(5jour, 
Franche  d'ambition,  je  me  cache  sous  Pherbe  ; 
Mais  si  sur  votre  front  je  puis  me*verun  jour, 
La  plus  humble  des  fleurs  sera  la  plus  superbe.** 

Which  let  me  thus  translate  : — 

Modest  in  my  colour,  modest  in  where  I  grow, 
Free  from  all  ambition,  'neath  the  grass  I  hide ; 

But  if  I,  one  day,  should  find  me  on  thy  brow, 
The  humblest  of  the  flowers  would,  then,  the  fullest 
be  of  pride. 

But  besides  the  modest  rose-bushes,  there  was  a 

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I/O  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

white  clambering  rose.  High  and  wide,  and  in  some 
of  the  plants  strikingly  so,  it  clung  to  the  trees,  and 
blossomed  abundantly  among  their  leaves  and 
branches,  as  if  belonging  to  them.  The  effect  was 
charming ;  add  to  which  at  early  morning  the  air  was 
perfumed  with  just  the  most  delicate  aroma.  The 
hawthorn  must  again  be  added^  and  one  or  two 
shrubs  of  the  dogwood.  Nor  were  specimens  of  the 
blue  iris  wanting. 

In  addition  to  the  general  class  of  scenery  I  have 
described,  the  camping  ground  at  Gagangir  showed 
some  fine  curving  rocks  in  the  direction  of  the  next 
day's  journey ;  while  those  on  the  other  side  of  the 
rushing  river  were  splendidly  clothed  with  forests  of 
varied  fresh  green  foliage.  On  the  last  day  the 
scenery  was,  perhaps,  the  finest;  and  at  length 
emerging  on  the  rocky  meadows  of  Sonamerg  we 
beheld  a  cragged,  double-headed  mountain,  exhibiting 
two  or  three  glaciers  on  its  slopes  and  precipices. 

It  was  the  same  afternoon  of  this  arrival  that  the 
entomologist  left  me  for  the  next  station.  After  that, 
I  met  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Blisset  ;  he  being  somewhat  dis- 
appointed that  a  grizzly  bear  had  escaped  him  and  had 
been  seen  afterwards  crawling  up  the  mountain.  On 
the  morning  of  the  next  day,  June  5th,  before  break- 
fasting with  them,  I  rode  for  about  two  hours,  going 
some  way  down  the  path  towards  Baltal  and  back. 
Beyond  Baltal  begins  the  Zogila  Pass  that  leads  into 
Ladak ;  and  after  breakfast,  all  tents  having  been 
already  struck,  I  was  on  my  way  back  to  Manisbal 
Lake.  As  the  scenery  on  coming  had  culminated,  so 
on  returning  it  deteriorated ;  and  this  was  one  dis- 


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KASHMIR.  171 

advantage  of  having  to  return.  Rice-grounds  re- 
appeared, and  the  foul  mud-ploughing,  and  the  shout 
of  the  muddy  plougher  to  his  muddy  oxen.  How 
different  from  the  healthy  furrows  of  our  Surrey 
hills  !  Yet  this  is  the  grand  growth  in  Kashmir,  to 
come  to  join  in  which  has  been  recommended  to 
English  farming  emigrants.  Well,  indeed,  and  with 
a  pang  of  absence,  they  might  remember, 

"  How  jocund  did  ihey  drive  their  teams  a-field." 
It  was  in  the  course  of  one  of  these  day's  marches 
that  a  curious  incident  occurred,  the  peculiar 
feature  of  which  might  have  by  many  been  over- 
looked, by  mistaking  it  for  a  mere  exhibition  of  com- 
mon timidity.  As  I  was  quietly  riding  along,  I 
suddenly  saw  a  black  snake,  of  no  great  size,  cross- 
ing the  path.  Instinctively  I  threw  my  crop  at  it, 
and  called  out  to  my  guide  who  was  behind.  The 
moment  he  saw  what  I  pointed  at,  he  made  three  or 
four  short,  measured  jumps  back.  This  would  very 
naturally  be  attributed  to  fear.  But  it  was  no  such 
thing.  I  instantly  detected  a  reverential  colouring  in 
his  attitudes  ;  and  I  am  confident  that  there  was  here 
figured  the  latent  sentiment  of  the  old  Niga,  or  snake- 
worship.  Nothing  could  have  induced  that  man  to 
hurt  the  snake.  And  this  is  the  reptile  which  the 
Christian  holds  to  impersonate  the  enemy  of  all 
mankind.  Thus  have  minds  or  brains  differed 
throughout  the  world  ;  and,  in  particular,  to  what 
thoughts  and  facts  has  not  the  serpent,  or  snake, 
given  rise  ?  I  distinctly  witnessed  his  influence  here 
in  a  very  humble  case ;  and  later  on  I  saw  a  very 
grand  one  in  the  vast  temples  in  Cambodia. 


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172  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERfNGS. 

On  Saturday,  the  8th  of  June,  I  arrived  at  Manisbal, 
and  on  crossing  the  new  bridcre,  on  my  return,  noted 
that  there  were  some  rather  striking  peaks  and  shelv- 
ing valleys  far  away  to  the  right  as  I  turned  down  to 
the  left  towards  my  destination.  Happily  I  found 
Captain  and  Mrs.  Harries  still  there,  and  that  they 
had  been  joined  with  their  friends.  Captain  and  Mrs. 
Brown.  The  space  under  the  chenars  was  therefore 
rather  largely  occupied  ;  but  as  I  was  to  start  at  early 
morning,  I  became,  at  their  suggestion,  their  guest  at 
dinner  for  the  evening,  and  slept  on  board  my  boat 
below.  I  must  add  that  the  lights  and  colours  of  the 
general  landscape  were  particularly  effective  in  the 
course  of  this  afternoon  and  at  sunset. 

After  havin^^  thus  seen  the  Sind  Valley,  I  should 
naturally  have  returned  to  Srinagar ;  and  so  I  should 
have  done,  had  I  been  favoured  with  fair  weather  at 
Nagmerg,  and  been  able  to  see  Nungar  Perbat  from 
those  striking  and  engaging  heights.  But  as  this 
was  otherwise,  and  that  I  was  determined  to  get  a 
view  of  him,  I  was  bound  to  go  across  the  somewhat 
dreary  Woolar  Lake  again,  to  a  place  called  Bandipur, 
for  Tragbal.  This  I  did  on  the  9th,  and  made  my 
way  through  foggy,  sedgy,  weedy,  and  muddy  water, 
and  thence  up  a  canal  to  a  coolie  station.  Here  we 
were  furnished  with  ponies  and  attendants,  and  were 
to  go  to  Kralapura.  But  the  pony-boy,  by  a  blunder, 
took  us  up  another  road,  and  we  found  ourselves 
brought  for  a  meal  and  a  night's  halt  to  a  merely 
wretched,  ruined,  empty  cowshed.  Fortunately  a 
Kashmir  cowherd  was  on  the  spot,  and  explained  to 
my  men  the  mistake  ;  whereon  Sedeeka  "  turned  to  " 


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KASHMIR.  173 

and  thrashed  the  pony-boy.  Cuffing  is  often 
appealed  to  out  there,  especially  with  CDolies.  But 
not  much  harm  was  done  ;  for  the  charming  touch  of 
evening  that  I  enjoyed  in  going  across  two  wooded 
heads  or  ridges  of  no  great  distance  in  order  to 
redeem  the  error,  more  than  made  up  for  the  mistake. 
In  the  first  rather  scanty  wood  we  were  overtaken  by 
just  the  fringe  of  a  small  thunderstorm,  the  in- 
tervening  sunshine  silvering  the  rain-drops,  and  on 
descending  from  this  and  mounting  the  other,  the 
evening  sun  came  out  bright  and  warm  upon  us,  and 
all  things  glistened.  But  chiefly,  as  the  effect  of  all 
this,  there  was  a  wondrously  fine  evening  double 
rainbow,  which  for  some  meteorological  reasons  hung 
close  upon  us ;  and  while  Kralapura  lay  in  deep  bird's- 
eye  view  immediately  below  us,  it  thus  gilded  the 
scene  as  Constable  himself  would  have  joyed  to  see 
it  Moreover  we  were  here  wholly  among  the  hills ; 
the  flat,  insipid  Vale  being  quite  excluded. 

At  early  morning  on  the  loth  came  our  climb,  and 
fortunately  for  me,  I  had  a  very  clever  pony.  The 
height  from  the  lake — itself  some  5000  feet  high — is 
called  4C)CX)  feet ;  and  if  it  is  not  so,  it  seems  so.  The 
coolies  and  the  men  came  a  shorter  but  a  sharper 
way,  and  arrived  some  little  time  after  me  with  ges- 
tures that  betokened  something  not  very  unlike  fatigue. 
We  were  all  landed  under  seme  large  pine-trees  over  - 
shadowing  a  piece  of  water,  and  here  I  breakfasted 
But  this  was  not  yet  the  top,  for  that  lay  another 
20CO  feet  above.  However,  here  I  tented,  and  shall 
not  readily  forget  the  truly  pastoral  scene  1  witnessed. 
As  I  came  towards  the  trees  I  saw  before  me  two 


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174  IVANDERLVGS  ASD    WONDERINGS, 

large  flocks  of  goats,  reposing  with  their  two  tall 
shepherds.  The  goats  were  themselves  of  unusual 
size,  and  very  long-haired.  But  their  tameness  was 
quite  as  singular  as  their  appearance.  I  got  off,  and 
walked  among  them,  and  they  would  scarcely  make 
way  for  me  ;  in  those  solitudes  I  confess  to  have 
felt  companionship  : 

"  Their  tameness  was  charming  to  me." 

After  breakfast  came  the  second  climb  to  see  the 
mountain,  and  through  the  forest  to  a  wide,  ungainly, 
undulating  plain  we  came  at  last — Camala  and  I. 
Here,  to  our  right,  we  caught  a  full  view  of  Haramuk, 
rearing  his  snowy  range  to  about  1 7,coo  feet  above 
the  sea,  to  some  ii,ooo  feet  or  12,000  feet  above 
the  vale,  and  to  some  6000  feet  or  7000  feet  above 
us.  But  I  did  not  come  specially  to  see  Haramuk. 
The  afternoon  was  very  fine,  but  where  was  Nunga 
Perbat  ?  "  Ah  ! "  said  my  waterman,  who  was  on  a 
pony  with  me  and  spoke  just  enough  English  to  be 
generally  misunderstood  (though  not  so  in  this  case) 
— "behind  rain  cloud.*'  And  truly,  there  gloomed  a 
centre  storm  in  the  far  middle  distance,  a  large  dark 
separate  curtain  across  the  otherwise  blue  sky.  I 
turned  my  pony  to  the  right  towards  Haramuk,  caring: 
not  where  I  went,  when  lo  1  through  an  opening  of 
some  crags  and  crests,  the  corner  of  my  eye  caught 
a  startling  object.  It  was  really  Nunga  Perbat,  and 
the  storm  was  really  miles  away  from  him.  Hasten- 
ing forward  I  called  to  Camala,  and  gained  an 
eminence  and  gazed.  He  stood  out  far  distant  and 
quite  alone  without  competitor ;  and  he  was  snowy 


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KASHMIR.  175 

white  throughout.  The  sun  was  full  upon  him  with 
his  map-registered  height  of  26,629  feet,  and  he  looked 
supremely  fine.  His  form,  from  my  point  of  view, 
was  perfect :  two  vast  shoulders  with  an  aspiring 
head  between  them  ;  the  whole  body  to  correspond  ; 
and  all  alone.  This  mountain  scene  was  truly  im- 
pressive, and  all  the  more  so  from  its  chief  feature 
having  come  upon  me  by  surprise.  There  stood  he; 
Haramuk  and  his  high  range  were  to  my  right,  and 
over  the  ridge  to  the  Tragbal  Pass — ii,8oD  feet  high 
—which  lay  to  my  left,  for  I  had  diverged — I  saw  the 
long  snowy  mountain-path  leading  onwards  down  to 
Zcdkusu  on  the  road  toGilgit ;  and  along  that  snowy 
path  there  was  approaching  one  small,  slow  group  of 
one  man  with  his  one  laden  donkey  ;  a  perfect  Bewick 
winter  colophon.  I  sat  gazing  on  Nunga  Perbat 
till  I  perceived  the  effect  was  changing  by  the  move- 
ment of  the  sun.  A  shade  was  just  appearing  on 
one  side,  with  a  slight  mist  into  the  bargain.  I  did 
not  wait  to  drink  the  lees  ;  but  with  the  last  taste  of 
the  sparkling  wine  I  quickly  rose  and  departed. 

Two  facts  should  here  be  noted  :  you  do  not  see 
Nunga  Perbat  at  all  from  the  common  path ;  and 
you  should  see  him  at  mid-afternoon.  As  regards  the 
path,  I  met  two  young  sportsmen  on  the  road  who 
had  killed  there  ten  bears  together — seven  for  one, 
and  three  for  the  other  ;  and  who  had  just  come  up 
from  Zedkusu.  But  they  had  seen  no  mere  of  the 
mountain  than  I  had  seen  of  the  bears.  This  bear- 
shooting,  by-the-way,  of  the  common  black  bear  is 
now  belittled  in  Kashmir.  "  Oh  !  bears,  yes."  And  I 
confess  the  sport  docs  not,  as  described  to  mc,  seem 


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1/5  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

very  grand.  These  animals  are  as  fond  of  mulberries 
as  are  the  fish,  and  are  shot  down  while  enjoying 
their  schoolboy  plunder,  squatting  on  the  branches. 
With  the  grizzly  and  grisly  gentleman  the  case  is 
somewhat  different,  and  the  sport  is  rarer.  Kashmir 
for  other  sport,  has,  by  all  accounts,  been  shot  out 
altogether.  From  the  forest  tent  I  came  down,  and 
down,  on  the  follo.wing  morning,  and  was  towed  up 
the  "charming"  mud-banks  of  the  Jhelum  ;  landing 
and  tenting  again  at  the  Chenar  Bagh  on  Wednes- 
day, the  1 2th  of  June ;  but,  this  time,  higher  up  and 
beyond  the  crowded  trees.  Thus  ended  my  second 
excursion.  My  third  and  last  was  to  be  to  the  Pir 
Panjal  Pass. 


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XVII. 

I  HAD  heard  of  the  glories  of  the  Pir  Panjal  Pass 
into  Kashmir  from  Lahore  so  long"  ago  as  when 
on  board  the  "  Ganges "  coming  to  Calcutta  ;  and 
I  had  heard  of  them  again  at  Murree ;  and  being 
myself  purely  an  excursionist,  with  my  time  my 
own,  I  could  not  have  dared  to  leave  the  Vale 
without  seeing  the  Pir  Panjal  Pass.  Accordingly, 
I  made  my  arran^^ements  for  starting  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  1 8th.  and  in  the  meantime  I  employed 
my  few  days  in  walking  across  the  wide  flat  to 
the  reading-room  and  in  paying  another  and  a  fuller 
visit  to  the  Dal,  especially  in  order  to  see  some- 
thing at  least  of  the  remnants  of  Moore's  "  splendid 
domes  and  saloons  of  the  Shalimar/'  The  illusion 
that  any  such  features  could  ever  have  existed  there 
must  be  dispelled  by  a  visit.  But,  then,  Lalla  Rookh 
is  not  a  guide-book  ;  and  they  who  desire  to  think  of 
Shalimar,  as  he  wrote  of  it,  should  not  go  there. 
What  remains  shows  that  the  whole  affair  must  have 
been  put  together  in  such  a  manner  as  common  sense 
must  see  was  alone  possible  in  those  remote  and  then 
quite  outlandish  districts ;  I  mean  that  the  quah'ty 
of  the  remains,  to  the  vulgar  mind  at  all  events,  thus 
shows  that  in  its  original  condition  the  building  and  its 
surroundings  must  have  partaken  of  the  tawdry.  The 
canal  leading  up  to  it  is  to-day  of  dismal  aspect  truly. 

N 


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178  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

The  Nishat  Bagh  (or  garden)  may  follow  suit  in  my 
description  ;  but  the  Naseeb  Bagh  is  well  worth  a 
visit,  for  it  is  a  palace  of  nature  merely,  consisting 
of  no  artificial  bagh  and  buildings,  but  of  a  fine  grove 
of  old  chenars  like  a  small  Windsor  forest.  Save 
for  the  inconvenience  of  access,  it  would  be  the 
choicest  of  the  Srinagar  tenting-grounds.  I  was 
again  depressed  by  the  absolute  suffocation  of  the* 
waters  of  the  Dal ;  there  is  even  a  causeway  (as  we 
call  it)  built  into  the  lake  ;  but  the  sloping  banks 
and  mountainous  hills  around  improve  upon  better 
acquaintance. 

Well,  in  undertaking  the  Pir  Panjal  Pass,  I 
arranged  to  put  all  my  people  on  ponies,  to  their 
great  delight,  reserving  one  of  the  boatman  to  come 
on  foot,  in  order  to  look  after  the  coolies  with  the 
tent  and  stores ;  and  on  the  evening  of  the  i8th  I 
started  for  the  Pass,  gc^ing  round  in  the  boat  to  the 
Post  Office  on  the  river.  Thence,  next  morning,  I 
was  towed  up  to  Karkapur,  arriving  about  two 
o'clock  p.m.  This  was  a  desolate-looking  place, 
but  at  about  a  furlong  onwards  there  was  a  fine 
chenar-tree  to  tent  under,  which,  in  turn,  afforded  a 
fine,  though  distant,  view  of  mountains  with  undula- 
tions ;  but  these  also  far  away.  A  beautiful  burnish  of 
virgin  gold  attended  sunset,  and  this  tint  is  very 
characteristic  of  Kashmir.  In  coming  up  the  river  I 
thought  the  hills  in  certain  parts  looked  better  than 
before,  but  the  banks  were  but  towing-banks  still. 

Starting  at  six  next  morning  I  had  a  ten-mile  ride 
to  Rama,  and  tedious  and  ugly  was  the  ride.  Rice- 
grounds  and  coarse  grass  were  its  adornment,  and 


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KASHMIR.  179 

the  flatness  was  of  the  Isle  of  Dogs.  The  weather 
was  hot,  ray  thermometer,  both  yesterday  and  to-day, 
showing  88°  in  the  shade,  where  we  could  get  shade. 
Though  we  arrived  at  an  early  hour  we  were  obliged 
to  halt,  which  we  did  under  some  fine  walnut-trees. 
But  we  were  not  quite  solitary,  though  perchance 
would  have  rather  been  so.  For  we  were  regaled  with 
what  at  home  would  be  called  "  rough  music."  Here, 
however,  the  occasion  was  the  exact  opposite.  So  far 
from  its  object  being,  as  with  us,  to  accompany  the 
wranglings  of  husband  and  wife,  it  was  here  intended  to 
celebrate  their  early  harmonious  junction,  before  the 
luxury  of  love  had  been  succeeded  by  the  luxury  of 
quarrel.  My  people  were  somewhat  astonished  as 
well  as  amused  at  the  barbarism  of  my  objection ; 
and  at  my  explanation  of  how  we  understood  such 
sounds  at  home  were  rapt  in  wonder. 

An  early  start  next  morning  brought  us,  after  an 
eleven  miles'  ride,  to  Shupyan,  where  there  was  some 
show  of  timber,  but  only  a  poor  tenting-ground,  and 
the  ride  was  again  flat  and  ugly.  Afterwards, 
another  night  brought  us  to  Hirpur,  whence  the 
ascent  is  considered  to  begin,  though  this  is  not 
strictly  correct ;  and  here  it  was  that  the  general  hire 
of  horses  took  place.  The  spot  itself  is  more  or  less 
engaging,  and  I  tented  by  a  stream's  side  under  a 
large  walnut-tree.  The  bungalow  (so  called)  was  of 
so  doubtful  an  appearance  that  I  left  it  in  doubt. 

On  Saturday,  the  22nd,  I  sent  the  coolies  forward 
with  their  guide,  getting  up  at  early  dawn  to  free  my 
tent  for  them,  and  at  a  later  but  still  early  hour  all 
our  riding  party  mounted  our   ponies.     There   was 

N  2 


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l80  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

myself  and  cook,  the  waterman  and  the  sweeper,  the 
under  boatman  and  volunteer  waiter ;  and  off  we 
all  trudged  together,  to  get  to  a  spot  on  the  Pass 
called  Aliabad  Serai  for  the  night. 

What  we  were  to  see  I  could  not  at  all  make  out. 
In  the  Chenar  Bagh  there  was  a  near  neighbour  of 
mine,  a  young  doctor,  who  had  come  over  rather  too 
early  in  the  season,  and  was  suffering  from  a  much- 
frozen  lip  in  consequence.  But  I  could  not  possibly 
get  from  him  any  distinct  description  of  what  he  had 
seen,  though  I  am  quite  sure  he  did  his  best  to  give 
me  something  of  the  sort,  and  was  very  indulgent  of 
my  cross-questioning  ;  but  he  was  only  an  exaggera- 
tion of  too  many  travellers  :  they  cannot  manage  to 
describe  what  they  have  seen,  so  as  to  prepare  you 
for  it.  In  this  case,  however,  that  peculiarity  was 
strong,  perhaps  because  I  always  found  him  reading 
mathematics.  Thus  it  was  that  my  curiosity  was 
great,  and  my  distrust,  perhaps,  was  scarcely  less. 

Well,  we  began  with  a  very  pretty  ride  through  the 
Hirpur  woods,  though  by-and-by  the  path  became 
almost  too  picturesque  in  rocky  ruggedness  and  un- 
mitigated ups  and  downs.  At  length  there  was  a 
decided  down,  and  we  came  forth  upon  a  low  bridge 
across  the  rushing,  boisterous  Rembiera.  There  the 
real  ascent  began  through  the  forest  on  the  opposite 
side.  Out  of  this  we  presently  emerged,  almost 
equally  impressed  with  roughness,  and  came  upon  the 
coarsely  green  and  shapeless  gorges  of  the  Pass, 
while  the  Rembiera  now  roared  far  below  us  on  our 
left.  This  unpicturesque  gorge  continues  in  long 
perspective,  and  you  see  your  future  path  in  certain 


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KASHMIR.  l8l 

broken  lengths  for  a  good  way  ahead,  roughly  cut  out 
upon  the  harsh,  dry  cheek  or  slope.  It  is  as  bad  as 
bad  can  be  in  places,  and  I  believe  I  was  the  only  one 
who  escaped  the  ineffable  bore  of  continually  getting 
off  and  on.  But  my  pony  was  very  clever,  and  only 
wanted  his  fair  chance  given  him,  and  this  served  for 
both  of  us.  What  else  could  you  expect  on  the  Pir 
Panjal?  Perhaps  we  saw  more  than  usual  of  this 
class  of  the  so-called  picturesque,  and  I  was  told  we 
did,  for  by  the  breaking  of  some  bridge  we  were  forced 
into  an  unusual  divergence,  and  were  driven  over  a 
ragged  round.  What  chiefly  proved  this  was  that 
our  breakfasting  hour  happened  during  the  divergence, 
and  we  bivouacked  on  a  shingly  slope  of  perhaps  60°. 
On  we  afterwards  continued,  and  I  soon  discovered 
that,  whatever  the  Pir  Panjal  Range  may  look  like 
at  a  distance  from  the  south,  the  Pir  Panjal  Pass,  or 
vast  gorge  of  the  Rembiera,  is,  as  compared  with 
grand  mountain  passes,  ugly,  confined,  and  coarse. 
There  is  not  to  be  seen  one  single  glance  of  a  good, 
real,  craggy  peaked  snow  mountain.  You  are  for 
the  whole  way  to  Aliabad  Serai — to  speak  of  nothing 
farther  at  present — under  the  brows  of  that  lower 
class  of  mountain  known  as  the  round  or  clumsy- 
headed,  and  there  is  only  coarse  grass,  some  rock, 
and  dissolving  snow  to  show  for  itself.  The  bare- 
ness of  the  slope  you  travel  on  is  extreme,  though 
this  of  itself  need  not  have  destroyed  attraction. 

At  length,  in  the  midst  of  all  this,  hope  jeering  at 
me  as  we  went  on,  I  heard  the  welcome,  yet  most 
unwelcome  words,  "  Aliabad  Serai/'  and  there  it  was 
among  the  same  shapeless  slopes,  showing  itself  at  a 


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1 82  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

curve  about  two  miles  away  in  front.  Thither  we 
came  in  time,  and  I  then  found  myself  upon  a  wide, 
exposed  and  undulating  maidan,  or  meadow,  with  a 
profound  apology  here  to  that  beautiful  word  for  this 
application  of  it.  Around  us  were  unattractive 
mountains,  but  the  most  unattractive  object  of  all 
was  the  most  filthy  Serai  itself.  "  Hardly  fit  for  a 
lady."  says  one  of  the  guide-books,  somewhere,  in 
which  passage  I  have  scratched  out  "  lady,"  and 
inserted  "  pig."  If  the  Maharajah's  feeling  as  regards 
the  visits  of  strangers  to  his  dominions  is  to  be  tested 
by  the  state  of  this  building,  he  must  be  held  to  abhor 
their  presence. 

I  tented  out  in  the  pseudo-meadows  under  a 
blazing  sun  ;  and  be  it  the  turn  of  sun  or  of  high 
wind,  either  of  which  can  arrange  to  worry  you  or 
both  can  assault  together,  there  you  must  take  your 
chance.  Hitherto  I  am  bold  to  say  that,  judged  by 
this  class  of  excursion,  there  was  nothing  whatever 
worth  coming  for,  nothing  at  all,  so  far.  But  the 
view  from  the  Fakir's  house  down  on  to  India  was  a 
point  much  spoken  of,  and  this  lay  still  some  miles 
further  on,  the  distance  to  be  undertaken  on  the  early 
morrow  varying  in  report  from  five  to  seven. 

Assuredly  I  was  not  going  down  to  Lahore  at 
midsummer,  and  therefore  my  continuance  to  and 
from  the  ridge  was  matter  of  mere  faith.  And 
faith  in  what  ?  We  are  told  that  faith  is  tried.  It  is, 
indeed,  and  very  often  too,  and  too  much,  though 
sometimes  (as  must  be  the  case)  it  is  rewarded.  I 
felt  mine  tried  here,  but  nevertheless  I  meant  to  face 
the  trial,  and  to  see  whether  joy  would  come  in  the 


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KASH\fIR.  183 

morning.     But  behold  !  there  is  another  arrival  from 
the  very  spot.     Who  are  they  ?     Two  young  officers 
from    Lahore.     Now  then    for    information,   unless 
(by-the-by)  there  are  mathematics.     But  I  got  none, 
though  for  a  far  better  reason,  and  my  disappoint- 
ment was  much  softened  by  my  amusement  at  the 
naive  reply.     I  naturally  walked  to  their  tent  and  bid 
them  "  good  day,"  being  received,  as   I  always  was 
by  officers  in  India^  with  pleasant  frankness. 
•*  You  have  come  from  Lahore  ? " 
"  We  have,  indeed,  and  glad  to  get  away." 
"Of  course  stifling?" 

*•  We  could  not  sleep  indoors  and  scarcely  out ; 
even  there  it  seemed  hard  to  breathe." 

"  What  did  you  think  of  the  road  up  to  the  top  of 
the  Pass  ?  " 

"Well,  we  were  not  much  impressed  with  any 
particular  part  of  it,  and  it  was  very  hot  and 
fatiguing." 

Then  came  my  real  point.  "  And  the  view  from 
the  Fakir's  house — I  propose  riding  there  to-morrow 
morning — is  there  anything  really  striking  there  ?  " 

Alas  !  there  had  been  no  Eurydice  behind  Orpheus 
in  this  particular  escape  from  corresponding  regions. 

**  We  didn't  look  back*'  was  the  reply.  We  could 
not  but  all  laugh  together. 

As  I  was  determined  on  two  points — one  to  see 
the  ridge,  and  the  other  to  leave  sweet  Aliabad  Serai 
on  the  same  day — I  had  to  start  very  early  for  the 
first  object,  and  I  and  my  waterman  were  both  in  our 
saddles  very  soon  after  four  o'clock  on  Sunday,  the 
23rd,  the  pony  coolie  coming  with  us.     What  the 


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184  WANDERINGS  AND    iVONDERINGS. 

real  distance  was  I  know  not ;  what  it  seemed  I 
know. 

The  coolie  insisted  it  was  four  Cos,  or  eight  miles  ; 
for  me  it  might  have  been  eighty.  Long,  dreary, 
monotonous,  commonplace,  and  seemingly  inter- 
minable did  I  find  that  "  lovely  "ride.  At  last  there 
appeared  the  building  at  the  crest ;  and  towards  this 
I  made  at  once  in  haste. 

How  was  my  faith  rewarded  ?  Did  I  see  anything 
worth  coming  for.?  Yes,  indeed  I  did.  All  that 
there  is  to  see  I  did  not  see  ;  the  enormous  flat  stretch, 
including  even  Lahore,  was  curtained  off  by  gloomy 
mists ;  but  in  this  there  was  perhaps  something 
gained  in  the  dark  charm  of  half-mystery  that  hung 
about,  without  concealing,  all  that  lay  immediately 
below.  I  stood  upon  a  seeming  precipice.  Poschiana 
lay  six  miles  down  by  path,  and  through  the  sombre 
atmosphere  I  saw  Poschiana,  and  a  gloomy  depth 
yet  lower  still,  and  the  misty  outline  of  the  rising 
hills  immediately  beyond.  It  was  all  impressive  to 
behold,  and  rests  upon  the  memory. 

I  am  very  glad  I  persevered.  It  is  in  reality  a 
Surprise  View.  How,  then,  should  it  be  recommended 
to  come  into  the  Vale  by  this  Pass  ?  I  should  answer 
for  myself  that  such  advice  is  wrong.  For  what  is 
the  descent  into  the  Vale  for  which  you  will  lose 
this  great  surprise  ?  It  is  nothing.  Even  if  you 
saw  the  Vale  you  would  only  look  upon  a  flat.  But 
you  do  not  see  it  at  all,  or  only  just  a  small  distant, 
ineffective  peep,  perhaps  in  the  direction  of  Islamabad. 
Even  were  there  anything  to  see,  the  obstinate  fold- 
ing of  the  dead-coloured  buttresses  of  pine  in  this 


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KASHXfIR,  185 

"  lovely  pine-clad  valley  "  would  shut  out  everything 
below.  Yet  "kaleidoscopic  effects"  have  been 
declared  !  But  there  is  not  even  variety  in  ugliness. 
I  have  a  small  but  very  sensible  pamphlet  which 
was  published  in  1887  by  a  "Mr.  Charles  F.  Gilbert, 
Executive  Engineer  on  the  late  Kashmir  Railway 
Survey,"  who  came  upwards.  After  saying  that 
some  of  the  scenery  on  the  other  side  is  "  very  ordi- 
nary," he  thus  sketches  it  from  the  crest  to  Shupyan  : 
"  Monotonous  maidan  for  four  and  a  half  miles, 
monotonous  valley  for  six  and  very  ordinary  wood 
and  water  foreground  beyond/'  ...  "no  fore- 
ground, no  background."  For,  myself,  I  must  boldly 
dare  the  responsibility  of  asserting  that  the  only 
feature — and  that  is  a  grand  one — worth  looking  for 
on  the  Pir  Panjal,  for  anyone  who  has  ever  seen  really 
fine  mountain  scenery,  is  the  Surprise  View  on  going 
into  India  ;  "the  rest  is  silence." 

My  only  deviation  on  returning  was  from  Rama 
to  Chrar;  to  see  Shah  Nur-u-din*s  Zcarat,  a  road 
described  by  Ince  to  run  "  amidst  beautiful  scenery 
all  the  way,"  but,  as  described  by  me,  "  ugly  ride,  ugly 
place,  ugly  mosque,  and  ugly  Zearat." 


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XVIII. 

When  I  found  myself  at  the  Chenar  Bagh  again  on 
the  evening  of  Friday,  the  28th  of  June,  I  found  it 
very  full,  and  therefore  moved  up  to  nearly  opposite 
the  entrance  to  the  Dal,  and  next  door,  as  great  good 
chance  would  have  it,  to  a  Mr.  Garrick,  well  known 
in  India  for  a  very  remarkable  translation  of  a  Native 
poem.  I  was  myself  now  getting  rather  tired  of 
travelling  and  tenting,  and  on  the  night  of  July  3rd 
my  canvas  was  drenched  with  rain,  and  I  was  forced 
to  sleep  in  the  boat.  And  here  was  my  good  luck  ; 
for  while  lying  there  on  the  4th,  another  boat  was 
suddenly  pushed  in  alongside  of  mine  by  someone 
who  had  come  to  call  on  Mr.  Garrick  and  mistaken 
my  boat  for  his.  Mr.  Garrick  had  left  that  morning ; 
and  this  fact  leading  to  a  few  words,  behold,  I  was 
recognized  as  the  stranger  who  held  the  very  short 
conversation  at  Domel.  It  was  Mr.  Collett's  self  who 
spoke.  And  behold,  again,  he  told  me  I  was  looking 
fagged,  which  no  doubt  I  was,  and  that  I  must  come 
up  to  his  house  on  the  Dal  and  spend  a  few  quiet 
days  there.  And  behold  again,  after  a  very  noisy 
night  of  Muhammadan  "  Merry  Marriage  Bells,"  in  the 
course  of  the  morning  of  Friday,  July  5th,  I  arose 
and  struck  my  tent  for  the  very  last  time  in  Kashmir, 
and  went  in  my  boat  to  his  landing-place,  where  I 
was  met  by  his  servants  and  carried  up  in  a  rede  to  his 


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KASHMIR.  187 

quiet  dwelling  called  "  Chashma  Shahi,"  or  "  The 
Royal  Spring,"  which  lies  beneath  one  of  the  very 
prettiest  of  the  mountain  groupings  round  the  Dal. 
Thus,  the  first  slight  chance  of  my  few  words  at 
Domel,  which  I  need  not  have  exchanged,  and  the 
second  small  chance  of  my  being  driven  to  an  upper 
portion  of  the  Bagh,  and  the  third  of  my  being  next 
to  Mr.  Garrick,  brought  me  into  contact  with  Mr, 
Collett,  and  found  me  really  a  most  timely  and  bene- 
ficent refuge  with  the  owner  of  Chashma  Shahi. 
There  I  remained,  enjoying  the  quiet  hospitality  of  my 
friend  till  I  left  Kashmir,  lounging  about  his  garden, 
and  gazing  on  the  mountains  round,  or  listening  to 
the  birds,  including  the  varieties  of  the  mocking-bird, 
and  the  beautiful  note  of  the  golden  oriole  which 
had  always  cheered  me  in  the  Bagh.  Nor  do  I 
forget  the  sight  of  a  mute  beauty  that  is  your  com- 
panion everywhere,  although  without  a  voice,  I  mean 
the  hooppoe.  These  charming  birds,  with  their 
exquisite  crests  and  their  curved  bills,  are  most 
familiar,  and  will  take  little  or  no  heed  of  you 
while  hopping  about  and  piercing  the  grass  for 
whatever  food  it  may  be  they  are  in  search  of. 
Here  at  Chashma  Shahi,  with  Mr.  Collett,  I  enjoyed 
"somno  et  inertibus  horis,"  the  "jucunda  oblivia 
vitae  ^'  of  his  retreat,  until  I  bid  him  a  most  grateful 
farewell  on  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  24th. 

Then  I  was  again  carried  down  to  my  boat 
(though  now  I  could  have  walked),  and  embarked 
upon  the  Dal,  passing  out  into  the  well-known  Sant-i- 
Kul  Canal,  paddling  by  the  Chenar  Bagh  with  a  last 
farewell,  and  thence  to  settle  all  things  with  Bahar 


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l88  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

Shah,  who  presented  me  with  a  small  shawl  on 
parting.  Thence  I  was  punted  through  the  last  of 
The  City  of  the  Sun,  with  its  weedy,  grass-covered 
roofings,  and  afterwards  towed  almost  as  far  as 
Sopur  for  the  night.  The  next  day  I  continued 
to  Baramoola,  passing  at  one  time  through  a  long 
space  of  shallow  water  covered  with  weeds  and 
flowers.  At  night  there  was  a  general  assembly  of 
the  crews  of  both  boats,  and  the  usual  farewell 
assembly  and  distribution.  My  cook,  who  had  now 
become  my  travelling  servant,  and  Camala,  my 
waterman,  came  on  with  me  to  Murree,  and  two  of 
the  boatmen  as  far  as  Hattien,  where,  to  my  great 
relief,  I  learned  the  Tonga  road  was  already  open  all 
the  way  to  Kohala ;  and  they  who  travel  now  will 
never  know  the  ups  and  downs  and  crags  that  from 
time  to  time  were  encountered  by  those  who  travelled 
in  1889.  Thus  I  came  back  again  to  Powell's  Hotel 
at  Murree,  passing  coldly  through  all  the  stations 
where  there  had  been  greetings  on  the  coming,  but 
where  the  dwellings  were  desolate  on  the  return. 

Now  in  leaving  the  Vale  I  made  a  point  of 
coming  out  by  the  old  road,  over  the  Baramoola  Pass, 
in  order  to  see  that  first  view  which  has  been  so 
much  spoken  of.  I  found  very  much  what  I  ex- 
pected ;  it  is  striking  to  a  certain  extent,  but  the,  to 
me,  radical  defect  is  there  :  the  dead  flatness  of  the 
Vale,  and  its  paltry  river-banks.  On  turning  to  come 
down  into  what  I  call  the  Entrance  Valley,  or  gorge, 
I  must  confess  this  appeared  to  me  to  be  much  more 
striking,  though  the  winding,  and  the  there  rushing, 
Jhelum  is  not  actually  in  view.     The  fulsome  and 


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KASHMIR.  189 

c!umsy  exaggerations  of  the  scenery  in  Ince's  Guide- 
Book  speak  for  themselves,  and  carry  their  own 
refutation  ;  and  to  show  how  such  books  are  written, 
even  the  author  shrinks  from  repeating  Moore's 
obvious  nonsense  about  Baramoola  being  an  •*  earthly 
paradise,"  and  dares  to  suggest  that  ^^  Moore  must 
have  seen  it  at  its  best''     Moore  in  Kashmir  ! 

When  Hamlet  says  he  sees  his  father  "in  his  mind's 
eye,"  he  at  all  events  had  seen  him  with  his  real  eye. 
But  Moore  had  no  such  solid  memory  of  Kashmir  to 
recall. 

What  I  had  expected  to  see  in  Kashmir  was  a 
beautifully  wooded  and  undulating  valley,  with  flocks 
and  herds,  and  hanging  forests,  adorned  by  a  river 
with  ever-varying  banks — I  will  say  such  a  land- 
scape as  might  compare  with  that  beautiful  descrip- 
tion of  The  Isle  of  Loves  which  is  to  be  found  in  the 
IXth  Canto  of  Camoens'  Lusiads.  I  had  expected 
a  beautiful  diversified  Vale,  where  the  mountains, 
seeming  to  belong  to  it,  combined  with  it,  adorned  it 
closely,  and  appeared  to  grow  out  of  it.  In  his 
Introduction  to  the  "  Fortunes  of  Nigel,"  Scott  re- 
fers to  Lady  Mary  Montague  as  saying  "  with  equal 
truth  and  taste,  that  the  most  romantic  region  of 
every  country  is  that  where  the  mountains  unite 
themselves  with  the  plains  or  lowlands/'  Of  this 
I  found  nothing  in  the  Vale  of  Kashmir,  though  I 
found  it  abounding  in  Java  and  Japan.  Indeed, 
how  do  geologists  describe  Kashmir  ?  They  opine 
that  the  Vale  represents  the  dry  bottom  of  a  gigantic 
lake  that  eventually  broke  through  and  left  only  the 
sluggish  river.     I  can  but  talk  by  my  own    brain  ; 


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190  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

and  I  have  already  said  enough  to  show  why,  as 
regards  Kashmir,  whatever  else  may  be  the  views 
of  others,  I  entered  hoping  and  departed  disap- 
pointed. 

And  if  this  was  the  case  as  regards  the  scenery, 
so  was  it  as  regards  the  "  lovely  virgins."  Not  quite 
so  much,  perhaps ;  because  I  was  too  old  to  be 
able  to  persuade  myself  that  where  poverty,  hard 
work,  and  poor  nourishment  must  of  necessity  pre- 
vail, fairylike  beauty  and  complexion  could  possibly 
abound.  I  could  discover  no  more  of  that  among 
the  brown-skinned  and  well-featured  females  that 
I  saw  than  I  could  of  "  kaleidoscopic  colourings  " 
in  the  rough  Pir  Panjal  Pass  ;  and  the  real 
Kashmir  woman,  moreover,  has  all  the  bearing  of 
being  rather  cold,  proud,  and  distant  towards 
strangers.  It  is  quite  possible  that  if  they  ever  lose 
one  sort  of  character  they  may  lose  the  other,  but 
that  would  not  serve  to  enshrine  them  in  fantastic 
poetry. 


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XIX. 

I  WAS  not  left  long  at  Murree,  for  scarcely  had 
I  arrived  when  I  received  a  very  kind  letter  from 
Miss  Ommanney,  asking  me  to  repeat  my  visit  to 
the  Colonel,  and  to  come  and  add  Nathia  Gali 
(or  Gully)  to  my  experiences.  Therefore,  on  a  fine 
morning,  on  the  13th  of  August,  I  got  into  the 
saddle,  and  arrived  about  four  o'clock  that  after- 
noon. Assuredly  there  was  no  flatness  here 
Thickly  and  handsomely  timbered  gorges,  running 
in  all  directions,  one  with  another,  mainly  con- 
stitute the  features  of  these  gullies ;  while  the 
picturesque  dwelling  of  the  Colonel  and  his  two 
daughters  in  the  midst  of  a  wood  exactly  corre- 
sponded with  the  surrounding  scenery.  Here  I 
passed  six  pleasant  days,  enlivened  by  a  periodical 
succession  of  lawn-tennis  parties  on  the  artificial 
ground,  and  looking  over  several  water-colour  sketches 
by  the  Colonel.  On  the  22nd  I  returned  to  Powell's 
at  Murree,  to  leave  on  the  25th  for  Powell's  at  Rawl 
Pindi,  and  on  my  way  I  found  the  rains  had  made 
all  green  since  my  arrival ;  sp  much  so  that  I  could 
scarcely  recognize  the  road. 

Being  now  on  my  way  to  Simla  on  a  visit  to 
Colonel  and  Mrs.  Nicholson,  I  made  no  stay  except 
to  buy  one  or  two  required  articles  among  the  dis- 
persed mansion-shops  of  Pindi,  and  came  on  to 
Lahore,  still  hot,  but  now  much  cooler  than  when 


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192  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

the  two  retreating  Pir  Panjal  officers  had  not  looked 
back  at  it.  Thence  I  took  rail  to  Umballa,  where 
a  tonga  was  then  necessary  to  Kalka,  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains.  There  I  slept,  continuing  my  next 
day's  journey  up  the  mountain  to  Simla. 

There  must  now  be  a  railway  to  Kalka  along  the 
flat,  for  the  works  were  well  advanced  when  I  was 
there,  and  this  will  be  a  great  boon.  There  was  also 
a  talk  of  carrying  the  line  up  to  Simla,  but  this  great 
advantage,  in  one  sense,  would  rob  the  traveller  of  a 
most  exciting  and  interesting  tonga  drive.  Both  in 
going  up  and  coming  down,  and  particularly  in  the 
down,  your  attention  is  kept  alive  at  every  turn  ;  not 
much  less  so  by  the  skilled  driving  than  by  the 
character  of  the  road.  But  take  care  of  the  heels  of 
the  horses  when  you  get  out  at  the  changes.  As 
regards  Simla,  I  must  confess  to  have  been  much 
surprised  when  my  driver  pointed  out  to  me  the  first 
view  of  the  city.  It  seemed  to  be  hanging  on  a 
precipice,  and  not  to  be  adorned  by  any  attractive 
features  as  to  its  buildings.  In  short,  when  I  came 
to  know  it  more,  I  felt  convinced  that  had  I  arrived 
there  an  unprotected  and  unrecommended  stranger, 
I  should  not  have  remained  in  the  place — as  Simla — 
for  four-and-twenty  hours  if  I  could  have  got  away 
within  that  not  very  prolonged  period.  But,  as  it 
turned  out,  my  stay  was  of  very  many  twenty-four 
hours,  for  I  had  sent  on  my  letter  from  Colonel  Busk 
to  his  brother-in-law.  Colonel  Nicholson,  the  Military 
Secretary  of  the  Commander-in-Chief,  whose  coolies 
and  jinrikisha  were  waiting  at  the  station,  whence  I 
was  carried  still  farther  up,  and  received  a  hearty 


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snfLA.  193 

welcome  from  the  Colonel  and  Mrs.   Nicholson  at 
their  charming  residence  of  Armadale. 

I  was  not  long  in  practically  proving  what  was  in 
reality  the  configuration  of  Simla.  On  the  day  after 
my  arrival  I  accompanied  Mrs.  Nicholson  to  the 
shooting-ground  at  Annandale,  where  she  figured 
quite  in  the  first-class  among  the  competitors,  and  I 
took  my  aneroid  with  me  to  test  the  level.  It  was 
one  of  Adie's,  and  has  from  first  to  last  turned  out 
singularly  correct  according  to  all  officially  registered 
altitudes.  Accordingly,  I  pointed  out  that,  measured 
from  the  high  crown  of  the  town,  which  is  consider- 
ably above  Armadale,  down  to  the  shooting-ground, 
we  had  descended  just  1000  feet,  and,  as  a  natural 
consequence,  had  to  clamber  up  it  again  before  we 
could  get  home. 

Simla  is  altogether  precipitous,  and  the  Viceregal 
Lodge  stands  up  like  a  kite  in  the  sky.  You  may 
drive  about  in  your  carriage  and  four,  but  then  your 
carriage  is  a  jinrikisha,  and  your  four  are  four  coolies. 
No  wheels,  as  we  understand  them,  are  allowed  to  any 
but  the  Viceroy  and  the  Commander-in-Chief  All 
the  rest  must  go  as  I  have  explained — in  which  con- 
veyance I  confess  to  have  felt  as  shy  at  starting  as  I 
had  on  striding  a  donkey  for  the  first  time  in  Cairo. 
Or  you  may  ride,  or  you  may  walk.  But  I  don't 
think  officers  are  expected  to  salute  from  jinrikishas. 
In  point  of  fact,  if  carriages  were  allowed  there  would 
assuredly  be  pushings  over  precipices  here  and  there, 
or  barriers  of  safety  would  serve  to  impede  traffic. 
There  is,  to  be  sure,  one  round  of  about  five  miles  for 
riding,  called  the  Mall.     Make  the  best  of  it. 

O 


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194  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

It  was  on  the  2nd  of  September,  about  the  close 
of  the  rainy  season,  that  I  arrived  at  Simla,  and 
the  weather  was  superb.  The  sharp  edges  of  the 
great  snow  range  are  visible  at  intervals  from  the 
high  level  of  the  Viceregal  Lodge,  and  their  buttresses 
and  independent  lesser  mountains  in  all  directions 
offer  an  immense  variety  of  form.  But  life  is  carried 
on  in  perpetual  warfare  with  the  laws  of  gravitation, 
and  the  place  is  toe  and  heel  for  even 

Being  a  guest  at  Armadale  my  time  was  varied 
with  much  society.  My  first  duty  was,  of  course,  to 
enter  my  name  at  the  Viceregal  Lodge,  and  Mrs. 
Nicholson  took  me  to  call  on  Colonel  Ardagh,  the 
Viceroy's  Private  Secretary,  where  I  was  highly 
interested  in  his  paintings,  for  they  were  of  views  in 
Dalmatia,  where  I  had  been  with  Sir  R.  Burton.  Of 
course,  I  called  on  Lord  William  Beresford,  and  the 
remarkably  tantalizing  task  of  getting  to  his  dwelling 
reminded  me  of  my  discovery  of  that  of  the  Com- 
missioner at  Mandalay.  I  must  also  mention 
Colonels  Quintin  and  Hennessey ;  and  Colonel  Pole 
Carew,  who  entertained  me  at  dinner  at  his  romantic 
dwelling,  "  Shady  Dale,"  down  to  which  I  had  almost 
to  jump.  Colonel  Warburton,  to  whom  I  was  in- 
debted for  my  visit  to  the  Khyber  Pass,  also  reap- 
peared ;  and  many  ladies  diversified  the  scene.  Thus 
was  I  in  enjoyment  of  life  at  Simla  till  the  morning 
of  the  13th,  when  I  left  on  a  journey  to  Narkanda, 
departing  under  the  command  of  my  indulgent  host 
and  hostess  to  come  back  to  them  and  give  an  account 
of  myself.     Happy  '*  exam." ! 


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XX. 


Accordingly,  I  started  after  breakfast  in  my  carriage 
and  six.    That  was  the  number  required.     My  first 
halt  was  at  Fagu,  at  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  and 
at  looo  feet  above  Armadale.     My  next  at  Matiala 
or  Mutteana — what  a  wonderful  freedom  in  ortho- 
graphy there  is  out  here  ! — this  was  only  900  feet 
above  Armadale.     And  my  third,  Sunday  the  iSth, 
brought  me  to  Narkanda,  1650  feet  above  Armadale. 
Here  my  solitude  was  enlivened  by  meeting  Colonel 
Harvey,  of  the  Wilts  Regiment,  who,  seeing  my  name, 
claimed  me  as  a  relation  of  his  friend,  my  nephew, 
formerly  of   the  Bays,  and    gave    me    very  useful 
information  about  my  return  road.     We  passed  the 
evening  in  gazing  on  the  grand  range  immediately 
in  front  of  the  long  verandah  of  the  bungalow ;  but 
though  I  saw  this  fine  range,  I  saw  also  that  I  had 
not  seen  it  at  its  best.     In  the  first  place,  the  magic 
mantle  of  these  mountains,  snow,  was  scanty  ;  I  was 
told   it  was  unusually  so.     In  the  next^  the  grand 
moment  for  the  view  is  towards  sunset,  when  the  rays 
fall  full  upon  them,  but  at  that  hour  they  were  cloudy. 
In  the  third,  at  early  morning  when  all  the  black, 
sharp  edges  were  quite  clear,  the  sun  was  exactly 
behind  them.    To  see  the  Narkanda  range  to  perfec- 
tion   you  must  have  a  fine  clear  evening.     Still,  I 
had  seen  them  and  can  recall  them.     But  if  I  admired 

O  2 


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196  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERJNGS, 

the  aspiring  tops  of  these  Himalayas  wherever  I 
caught  sight  of  them,  not  less  was  my  wonder  excited 
at  their  buttresses  and  outworks.  The  extent  and 
magnitude  of  these  is  most  surprising,  and  hence 
indeed  it  is  that  so  much  difficulty  is  found  in  getting 
so  good  an  approach  to  the  main  range  as  will 
enable  you  to  obtain  a  long  and  uninterrupted  line 
of  ice  and  snow.  There  is  a  view  of  the  above  de- 
scription at  Fagu,  which  is,  in  my  own  idea,  worth 
going  for  alone. 

But  I  did  not  stop  at  Narkanda ;  I  went  on  to 
Kotegarh,  in  the  valley  of  the  Sutlej,  where  I  found 
I  had  come  down  to  the  level  of  Armadale.  Here  I 
had  the  good  fortune  to  find  Colonel  Hammond, 
C.B.,  of  the  5th  Punjab  Cavalry.  We  therefore 
could  dwell  and  descant  upon  the  scene  together. 
The  whole  country  was  of  course  vastly  mountainous, 
and  it  was  gloomy  ;  and  the  dark  river,  winding  in  the 
most  delusive  manner  to  the  sight,  was  gloomy.  It 
lay,  perhaps,  2000  feet  and  more  below  us,  and  though 
to  the  eye  it  was  boisterous,  to  the  ear  it  was  com- 
pletely silent ;  and  onwards  thus  it  foamed  and 
flowed  alone  between  its  rocky  banks,  rushing  as  one 
of  the  five  godfathers  to  christen  the  Punjab,  and  to 
fall  at  last  into  the  mighty  Indus,  which,  as  another 
godfather,  has  served  to  christen  India. 

I  stayed  the  whole  of  the  next  day  at  the  little 
bungalow  at  Kotegarh,  and  in  dutiful  memory  to 
Colonel  Warburton  I  buried  a  chicken,  to  the  subse- 
quent delight  of  Colonel  Hammond.  You  may  ask 
me  what  this  means.  It  refers  to  an  excellent  hint 
of  the  Colonel's.     Bury  your  chicken  for  a  few  hours 


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NARKANDA.  I97 

in  good  mould,  before  you  cook  it :  plucked  or  not 
plucked.  On  the  next  day,  the  i8th  September,  the 
Colonel  came  with  me  to  Baghi,  and  we  both 
enjoyed,  particularly  I  myself  under  his  guidance,  a 
delightful  ride  through  a  rocky  forest.  This  brought 
us  to  some  1750  feet  above  Armadale,  and  I  mention 
all  these  altitudes  as  illustrating  the  style  of  the 
country. 

On  the  19th  we  went  to  the  top  of  the  Hatta,  10,000 

feet  high,  whence  the  mountain  view  is  grand  ;  and 

here  Colonel   Hammond  left  me  to  return,  while  I 

continued  to  Narkanda.     The  remainder  of  this  ride 

was  again  through  forest  till  I  at  last  dropped  down 

into  the  Narkanda  road  and  came  along  soberly  to 

the  end.     Returning  to  Simla,  my  path  seemed  yet 

more  impressive  than  before,  and  on   Sunday,  the 

22nd,  I  was  at  Armadale  again  for  breakfast.     If,  on 

approaching  Simla,  anything  particularly  struck  me, 

it  was  the  host  of  Sunday  folks  coming  out  to  Mas- 

howbra,  close  by,  in  jinrikishas,  in  saddle,  and  on  foot, 

to  enjoy  the  air  pf  heaven  in  the  place  of  dogma. 

If  in  their  countenances  of  thanksgiving  I  detected 

any  slight  latent  frown,  it  evidently  meant,   What 

infidel    is    this,  going   into  Simla   on   such   a   holy 

morning  ! 

On  arriving  at  Simla  there  was  a  renewal  of  enter- 
tainment ;  and  finding  that  Lord  and  Lady  Reay. 
who  had  been  so  kind  to  me  at  Bombay,  had  arrived 
on  a  visit  to  his  Excellency,  I  performed  the  pleas- 
ing duty  of  immediately  entering  my  name  in  their 
book.  Between  that  day  and  my  departure  I  had 
been  honoured  with  a  dinner  and  a  concert  at  the 


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198  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS, 

Viceregal  Lodge,  and  an  invitation,  through  Lord 
William  Beresford,  to  a  ball  given  by  the  Viceroy's 
staff.  Thus  was  Simla  gilded  by  means  of  my 
friends'  letters  from  England,  and  by  my  entertain- 
ment at  Armadale.  After  breakfast  on  Sunday,  the 
29th,  I  bade  farewell  to  my  generous  host  and 
hostess,  where  I  had  passed  so  many  pleasant,  and 
indeed  luxurious,  days,  and  swung  down  my  fifty- 
eight  miles  to  Kalka  in  a  rapid  and  exciting  tonga 
journey.  Alas !  for  those  who  will  enjoy  the  barren 
luxury  of  a  railway. 

My  next  point  was  Mussuri,  in  order  to  obtain 
a  long  backbone  view  of  the  Himalayas,  which 
Mussuri,  from  a  proper  point,  affords.  On  the  2nd 
of  October  I  reached  Rajpore,  at  the  foot  of  the 
very  steep  climb  to  my  destination,  and  rested  at 
the  New  Rajpore  Hotel.  The  journey  was  very 
tedious,  for  many  horses  had  died,  and  slow-paced 
oxen  only  were  available  over  several  miles.  But 
the  Mohun  Pass,  rocky  and  wooded,  and  varied,  in 
a  certain  way,  by  the  diy  bed  of  the  sometimes 
torrential  Bindal,  served  as  a  diversion.  The  next 
day's  climb  was  very  trying  and  tedious  ;  and  it 
required  a  nine  miles'  hard  pull  to  get  to  the  Charle- 
ville  Hotel,  whence  the  views  are  fine  and  varied. 
But  the  hotel  was  crowded,  and  all  sorts  of  English 
pastimes  were  going  on,  including  a  luxurious 
luncheon.  Bearing  a  letter  from  Mrs.  Nicholson  to 
Sir  George  Greaves,  I  lost  no  time  after  breakfast  in 
going  to  his  house,  which  happened  to  be  close  by, 
though  by  a  rocky  approach.  I  found  him  at  his 
solitary  meal,  but  he  asked  me  to  dine  with  him, 


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FROM  M  US  SUE  I.  199 

which  invitation  I  accepted,  conditioned  on  my 
getting  a  refuge  at  the  hotel.  This,  I  afterwards 
found,  was  impossible  on  my  return  thither,  so  that  I 
had  to  put  myself  off  on  that  account,  and  receiving 
his  verbal  "  salaam  '*  in  reply  to  my  note,  I  took  my 
luncheon  and  counter-marched  to  Rajpore,  with  a 
certain  feeling,  for  the  first  time,  of  being  an  outcast 
in  India. 


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XXI 

N.OW  I  had  made  up  my  mind  to  revisit  Darjeeling, 
for  the  purpose  of  making  the  journey  to  Sundukfo, 
and  seeing  more  of  the  mountains.  I  therefore 
struck  for  Allahabad,  having  learned  on  inquiry  that 
I  could  get  across  to  Darjeeling  without  returning 
first  to  Calcutta,  a  necessity  which,  I  fancy,  would 
have  altered  my  resolution.  On  my  way  to  Alla- 
habad I  passed  again  through  Delhi  and  Agra  Fort, 
revisiting  all  the  now  old  scenes — so  soon  do  we 
become  acquainted  with  what  we  have  seen — and 
confirming  former  impressions  ;  and  from  Allahabad 
I  found  my  way,  at  some  cost  of  fatigue,  to  Darjeeling. 
The  connections,  or  quasi  non-connections,  between 
the  various  lines  involved  many  tedious  waitings ;  and 
in  crossing  the  Ganges  from  a  place  called  Saheb- 
gunge,  where  we  had  to  wait  from  morning  till  after- 
noon, to  another  called  Manihari  Ghat,  a  straight- 
line  distance  of  some  four  miles,  we  were  forced  from 
some  nautical  mysteries  to  compass  fifteen,  up  and 
down  on  the  river.  Altogether  this  journey,  which 
was  to  relieve  me  from  a  return  to  Calcutta,  cost  me, 
night  and  day,  from  the  morning  of  the  15th  of 
October  to  the  afternoon  of  the  17th,  and  covered 
660  odd  miles  ;  but  I  got  to  Darjeeling  at  last. 

A  good  many  might  think  this  journey  worth  while 
for  merely  a  second  sight  of  the  magnificent  moun- 


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DARJEELING  AGAIN.  20I 

tain  view  from  Darjeeling  before  finally  leaving 
India ;  and  I  would  not  readily  dispute  their  judg- 
ment ;  certainly  I  should  prefer  so  doing  to  walking 
1 60  miles  to  Lay  and  back  again  for  exercise. 
Kanchinjunga  from  Darjeeling  is  of  surpassing 
grandeur ;  and  Mr.  Roberts'  comfortable  hotel  is 
admirably  situated  for  a  contemplative  gaze  from  one 
of  the  best  positions.  But  for  myself,  my  chief  object 
in  returning  was  to  arrange  a  journey  to  Sundukpho  ; 
the  usual  time  occupied  in  going  and  returning  being 
five  days. 

The  great  point  gained  in  this  excursion  is  the 
freeing  of  the  whole  mountain  view  from  that  middle 
ridge  which  hides  all  but  three  comparatively  insigni- 
ficant peaks  from  the  top  of  Tiger's  Hill.  But  there 
was  here  necessity  of  companionship  for  a  special  ex- 
cursion of  this  kind  ;  and  the  first  not  unlikely  person 
that  I  encountered  was  a  jovial-looking  German, 
of  nearly  middle  age,  but  stout,  who  began  talking 
about  undertaking  the  exploit,  but  in  a  negative 
sense.  This  might  have  so  passed  ;  but  he  kept 
repeating  the  same  thing  so  often  that  I  made  up  my 
mind  he  was  really  making  up  his  own  to  take  the 
daring  plunge  after  all.  I  was  in  no  hurry  myself, 
for  I  was  expecting  at  leisure  that  the  weather  would 
get  quite  cool  enough  for  my  intended  jaunt  into  the 
Madras  districts,  and  thence  across  to  Ceylon ;  so  I 
waited  patiently  till  the  egg  hatched. 

This  worthy  gentleman  jsras  a  Mr.  J.  W.  Kriiger, 
from  Rangoon  ;  and  he  was  soon  joined  by  a  young 
and  active  Englishman  from  the  same  city,  Mr.  John 
Reddie  by  name.     The  enterprise  therefore  ripened. 


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202  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

and  we  made  up  a  party  of  five.  There  was  Mr. 
Kriiger,  Mr.  Reddie,  a  young  Mr.  McDonell  (who 
was  staying  at  Woodlands  with  his  mother),  my- 
self, and  the  fifth  traveller  from  another  hotel,  a  Mr. 
Cooke,  being  a  friend,  I  believe,  of  Mr.  Reddie's. 
Three  days  were  required  for  getting  horses,  things, 
and  attendants  together,  and  these,  under  the  com- 
mand of  my  mounted  cook  and  servant,  Bana,  were 
despatched  in  order.  "  What  a  noise  your  people 
made  leaving  early  in  the  morning,''  we  heard  when  we 
returned.  No  doubt  they  did,  for  they  were  many. 
Besides  my  own  cook,  there  was  another  and  a 
waiter,  eight  baggage  coolies,  five  ponies  with  grooms 
or  s&is,  and  one  most  important  and  indispensable 
individual,  the  sweeper,  without  whom  there  would 
be  no  admission  at  the  mountain  bungalows.  For 
ourselves,  we  took  the  train  to  Ghoom,  where  we  were 
met  by  our  ponies,  and  thence  we  found  our  way^ 
riding  and  walking,  to  Jore  Pokri,  for  the  night.  This 
was  on  Thursday,  the  31st  of  October.  On  Friday, 
the  1st  of  November,  we  slept  at  Tongloo,  and  on 
Saturday,  the  2nd,  at  Sundukpho.  This  was  the 
limit  of  our  journey,  and  it  was  here  that  we  were  to 
enjoy  the  fullest  view  of  the  mountains  which  the 
fairly  practicable  paths  of  these  districts  afford.  The 
excursion  fully  repaid  us,  which  I  believe  I  can  say 
was  our  unanimous  opinion. 

On  the  next  morning  we  were  all  up  at  the  very  peep 
of  dawn,  and  hurried  on  to  the  eminence,  which  was 
of  easy  access,  lying  immediately  behind  the  bunga« 
low,  and  there,  in  the  fresh  and  sparkling  air,  and  in 
our  loose  but  sufficient  clothing,  we  had  our  rough 


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DARJEELING  AGAIN.  203 

hot  coffee  arrangement  put  together,  and  sipped  our 
cups  and  watched  for  glowing  sunrise.  All  the  fold- 
ing icy  groupings  lay  uninterruptedly  before  us  in 
long  retreating  perspective,  and  though  it  was  imme- 
diately obvious  that  the  largest  of  the  three  peaks 
seen  from  Tiger  Hill  belongs  to  a  comparatively  near 
snow  crest,  called,  I  believe,  by  the  absurd  name  of 
the  "  Hooded  Monk,"  yet  it  must  be  understood  that 
it  is  at  first  difficult  to  pick  out  Mount  Everest  from 
the  rest;  and  it  must  also  be  understood  that  the 
guides  were  quite  unable  to  assist.  The  fact  is,  he  lies 
to  the  north  of  the  range  in  Thibet,  and,  after  all,  you 
really  do  not  see  a  great  deal  of  him  ;  the  form  of 
what  you  do  see  resembles  that  of  a  diamond  or 
lozenge,  so  far  as  the  nearer  mountains  permit  that 
much  of  him  to  appear.  What  his  exact  distance 
might  be  from  our  position  the  various  calculations 
do  not  enable  one  to  state  with  exactness,  but  it 
would  be  quite  safe  to  say  that  a  straight  line  of 
eighty  miles  would  be  the  very  smallest  figure  admis- 
sible. Popularly  speaking,  a  round  hundred  might 
be  ventured. 

It  will  thus  be  evident  that,  seen  at  such  a 
distance,  it  would  be  unfair  to  judge  of  his  parti- 
cular appearance  ;  but  certain  it  is  that  the  eye, 
so  far  as  it  can  judge,  entirely  misgives  the  notion 
of  his  presenting  anything  like  the  picturesque 
and  varied  form  of  Kanchinjunga.  Being  curious  on 
this  point,  I  have  since  my  return  conversed  with  my 
friend,  Dr.  Inglis,  on  this  subject,  whose  report  con- 
firms my  doubts.  Some  ten  years  or  so  ago  he 
made  a  real  mountain  excursion  amo  ng  the  ridges. 


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204  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

and  ascended  one  which  lies  on  the  western  boundary 
of  Sikkim,  and  is  an  offshoot  of  Kanchinjunga,  which 
brought  him  to  almost  the  same  distance  from  Mount 
Everest  as  the  former  mountain  stands  from  Darjeel- 
ing.  He  was  at  a  height  of  some  1 5,000  feet,  and 
there  lay  only  one  other  ridge,  perhaps  some  iooo 
feet  higher  still,  between  him  and  the  29,000  feet  of 
Everest.  He  had  a  fine,  clear,  open  view  of  the  moun- 
tain accordingly,  and  the  description  he  has  given 
me  is,  that  it  rises  quite  conspicuously,  as  it  naturally 
would  do,  is  very  large  in  appearance,  but  of  the 
plain  and  simple  form  of  a  huge  sugar-loaf;  and 
therefore  it  must  be  far  inferior  to  Kanchinjunga  in 
variety  of  bulk  and  outline. 

Even  as  regards  his  height,  viewed  from  our 
distance,  the  eye  was  quite  unable  to  distinguish  him 
by  any  prominence  of  that  kind.  He  did  not  appear 
to  dominate  the  group.  But  mark  ;  as  light  came 
gradually  growing  on,  and  a  glow  in  the  sky  gave 
token  of  fast  approaching  sun,  there  appeared  at 
length  a  sudden  proof  that,  far  away  as  he  was, 
he  was  nevertheless  the  real  monarch.  Kanch- 
injunga lay  strikingly  close  to  our  right,  and  while 
the  sun  was  just  tipping  his  crests  the  long-reaching 
perspective  still  lay  in  cold  and  slatey  atmosphere,  till, 
in  a  moment,  the  farthest-away  peak  of  all  was 
lighted  up  alone  ;  and  thus  the  lofty  Gaurisankar  was 
made  manifest  among  the  group  by  the  early  golden 
crown  with  which  the  monarch  of  the  morn  adorned 
him.  Speaking  for  myself,  this  decided  singling  out 
of  the  veritable  peak  by  a  living  coruscation  was  quite 
electrical,  and,  say  what  you  will,  this  feeling  was 


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DARJEEUNG  AGAIN.  20$ 

enhanced  by  the  recollection  that  I  was  gazing  at 
that  moment  on  the  highest  mountain  in  the  world. 

We  spent  a  certain  time  at  Sundukpho,  and 
wandered  for  a  certain  distance  down  the  road  towards 
Phallut  through  the  undulating  pine  forest  that  hung 
upon  the  slopes  to  our  right.  But  Sundukpho  was  our 
intended  limit,  nor  can  I  doubt  that  it  offers  the  most 
striking  view  obtainable  in  those  regions.  Certain  it 
is  that  the  further  we  went  the  less  we  saw  of  all  that 
had  so  engaged  us  in  the  early  morning,  and  as  Phallut 
was  wholly  inaccessible  on  account  of  broken  road  and 
bridges,  we  were  quite  content  to  return  to  our  bunga- 
low at  Tongloo,  and  on  the  following  evening,  Mon- 
day, the  4th  of  November,  to  find  ourselves  again  at 
Darjeeling. 

Our  entire  journey  had  been  propitious,  and  we 
had  all  been  well  attended  to  in  all  things.  The  road 
is  altogether  exceedingly  picturesque,  the  forests  being 
copious.  But  there  is,  no  doubt,  much  fatigue  at 
times,  because  the  ups  and  downs  are  very  arbitrary. 
The  formation  of  the  ground  continually  involves  a 
mount  which  you  know  merely  necessitates  a  descent, 
and  so  on  to  the  last.  To  mention  the  main  altitudes  : 
Darjeeling  stands  at  7000  feet,  Tongloo  at  10,000, 
and  Sundukpho  at  12,000.  As  to  danger,  the  word 
is  worth  mentioning  only  because  it  has  been  printed, 
and  therefore  should  be  contradicted.  It  is  more 
difficult  of  discovery  than  is  Mount  Everest  of 
discrimination.  When  we  were  well  at  home  and  at 
the  dinner-table,  my  health  was  drunk  with  compli- 
ments for  having  '*gone  so  straight."  Indeed,  we 
were  always  all  well  together,  though  now  and  then 


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206  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

young  Mr.  McDonell  would  dare  me  to  follow  him 
in  short  cuts,  for  of  course  there  was  a  great  deal  to 
be  done  on  foot.  And  so  farewell  to  Darjeeling  and 
its  grand  excursion. 

We  dispersed  at  once,  and  on  Friday,  the  8th,  I 
found  myself  again  at  old  quarters  at  the  Great 
Eastern  Hotel,  which  I  had  left  just  ten  months 
before,  to  undertake  my  Indian  and  Kashmiri  "  wan- 
derings  and  wonderings." 

Yet  one  last  note  about  Darjeeling,  which  I  must 
choose  to  record  for  my  own  satisfaction,  though  trite 
in  itself  and  purely  personal.  In  that  now  again  far- 
distant  land  I  suddenly  observed  a  notice,  **  To  Ban- 
stead  Cottage."  Banstead  I  had  known  since  memory 
began  ;  it  was  the  next  parish  to  Chipstead,  my  father's 
rectory,  and  his  unmarried  sisters,  our  worthy  aunts, 
were  for  ever  sending  for  us  all.  But  both  were  in 
olden  times  two  very  quiet  villages,  Chipstead  parti- 
cularly so,  among  the  Surrey  Hills.  What  could 
Banstead  have  to  do  with  Darjeeling  ? 

'*  Who  lives  at  Banstead  Cottage  ?  " 

"  Oh !  a  Mr.  Gibbons." 

"That  won't  quite  do—" 

*'  Ah  !  but  he  did  not  build  it." 

"  Who  did  ?  " 

"  An  old  gentleman,  now  living  at  so-and-so." 

"  What  is  his  name  ?  " 

"  Crommelin,  Colonel  Crommelin." 

"  That  will  do  ;  a  name  as  familiar  to  me  as  my 
own,  and  of  a  twin  Huguenot  family  of  old  times." 

So  on  Colonel  Crommelin  I  at  once  called,  and  saw 
his  daughter,  he  being  rather  unwell.     But  the  name 


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DARJEEUNG  AGAIN.  207 

was  at  once  recognized,  and  I  was  begged  to  call  on 
the  morrow  without  fail.  This  I  did,  and  suffice  it  to 
say  that,  although  I  had  not  known  him  personally 
among  others  of  his  family  there,  yet  during  our  long 
interview  I  was  at  Banstead  in  my  early  youth  again, 
until  I  left  the  house,  when  I  was  at  once  in  Dar- 
jeeling  again.  Thus  readily  can  thought  adapt  itself 
and  wander  where  it  wills,  or  where  it  must,  but 
would  not.  The  Colonel  had  passed  his  ninety 
years ;  and  it  was  about  the  time  of  my  early  days 
that  his  brother,  "  Tom  Crommelin,*'  was  a  very  well- 
known  name  among  sportsmen,  nor  can  it  be  yet 
forgotten  by  many  now  living. 


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XXII. 

Although  my  circle  to  Calcutta  was  now  complete, 
I  had  still  something  more  to  do  in  India,  for  I  could 
not  leave  without  visiting  the  Madras  Presidency  ; 
and  as  I  had  resolved  to  sail  for  the  city,  I  secured 
a  cabin  by  the  British  India  Company's  steamer, 
India,  Captain  Hall,  and  was  in  hopes  to  have  been 
piloted  down  the  Hugli  by  Mr.  Hudson,  with  whom 
and  Mrs.  Hudson  I  had  dined  a  day  or  two  before. 
We  left  upon  the  i8th  of  November,  but  were  de- 
tained in  the  Hugli  by  signal,  on  account  of  threaten- 
ing weather,  which  our  captain  could  not  profess  to 
see  any  real  signs  of.  However,  on  the  morning  of 
Thursday,  the  2ist  of  November,  the  foul  weather 
signal  was  down  and  we  got  away,  and  passed  out  of 
muddy  water  into  blue  ocean. 

Beautiful  weather  attended  us,  and  we  arrived  at 
Madras  at  4  p.m.  on  Saturday,  the  23rd.  We  had 
touched  here  in  heavy  rain  coming  up,  and  though 
the  sun  now  shone,  the  flat  place  looked  only  a  trifle 
less  uninviting  than  before.  The  works  of  the  harbour 
seemed  to  be  all  to  pieces  ;  and  as  to  its  protecting 
power,  I  was  told  that  the  signal  for  bad  weather, 
so  far  from  meaning  ''fortiter  occupa  portum^^  was 
a  warning  to  get  out  of  it  and  go  to  sea.  My  object, 
however,  was  inland,  and  as  soon  as  possible  I  found 
my  way  to  the  Madras  Club,  by  the  help  of  a  boy 


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MADRAS.  209 

whom  Mr.  Rowlandson  had  kindly  sent  to  meet  me. 
There  I  saw  Mr.  Hamilton  Holmes,  the  Secretary, 
who  at  once  made  me  at  home ;  and  very  fortunate 
I  thought  myself ;  Mr.  Rowlandson  calling  shortly 
afterwards.  These  introductions  are  indispensable 
in  India.  Two  more  letters  were  also  of  great 
service  to  me  which  General  Scott  Elliot  had  given 
me,  among  others,  one  to  Colonel  Gunning,  and 
particularly  one  to  Colonel  C.  J.  Smith,  R.E.,  who 
marked  me  out  a  most  successful  march  on  my  way 
south  as  far  as  Tuticorin.  At  Madras,  where,  never- 
theless, I  drove  about  and  admired  the  lordly  houses 
of  the  English  quarter,  this  was  my  chief  thought, 
and  especially  the  getting  to  the  island  of  Paumben, 
as  advised  by  Sir  Guildford  Molesworth,  to  see  the 
corridors  of  Ramisseram.  No  one,  however,  would 
give  me  much  hope  of  doing  this  by  way  of  any 
road  out  of  Madras  ;  for  at  best  a  long  and  next  to 
impossible  bullock-track  would  take  me  only  to  the 
shore,  whither  I  might  never  arrive,  and  then,  as  to 
a  boat }  But  by  dint  of  asking — "  by  asking  you 
can  get  to  Rome  " — I  was  at  last  introduced  through 
Captain  Simpson  to  Captain  Street,  who  gave  me 
no  new  hope,  but  gave  me  a  letter  to  Winstanley 
Carlyon,  Esq.,  Port  Officer  in  Paumben,  to  be  used 
if  I  could  get  there.  This  turned  out  to  be  of  vital 
importance  ;  and  by-and-by  I  will  tell  you  how  I  did 
get  there,  and  how  you  can  get  there  whenever  you 
like  to  go.     But  don^t  forget  the  letter. 

On  Monday,  the  2nd  of  December,  I  left  Madras, 
and  my  first  march  being  to  the  Nilgiris,  or  Blue 
Mountains,  I  went  as  far  as  Mettu.     On  the  follow- 

P 


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210  WAA'DERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

ing  day  I  took  a  tonga  to  Coonoor,  or  Kunur — spell 
as  you  please  the  name  of  any  place  you  please — and 
drove  to  Davidson's  Hotel,  lying  about  a  mile  out  of 
the  road.  I  made  the  height  of  this  hotel  to  be 
6300  feet,  and  was  throughout  the  drive  delighted 
with  the  bold  mountains  and  the  wooded  gorges 
through  which  I  passed.  On  the  following  morning 
I  continued  my  drive  to  Outacamund,  or  Wakamand  ; 
and  be  its  orthography  what  it  may  (nor  do  I 
care),  there  can,  at  all  events,  be  no  doubt  about  its 
attractive  beauties.  Who  would  ever  stop  even  to 
spell  the  word  Simla — as  Simla — if  he  could  reach 
the  fine,  open,  picturesque,  and  charming  scenery  of 
Outacamund  ?  Here  I  lodged  at  Sylk's  Hotel,  after 
admiring,  I  think,  every  inch  of  the  road  thither, 
mounting  to  7000  feet.  There  were  the  blue  hills 
in  verity,  and  the  impressive  Dodabetta  Peak,  of 
8000  feet,  and  an  air  that  seemed  to  breathe  im- 
mortality. A  fine  evening  drive  round  the  lakes  is 
one  recollection  that  strikes  me  among  many  ;  nor 
must  I  omit  a  visit  they  took  me  to  the  Foda  People, 
as  they  are  called,  with  their  long  black  hair,  and  in 
their  huts.  I  do  not,  however,  profess  to  have  con- 
versed with  them  ;  and  can  give  no  information  as 
to  their  beliefs  and  social  lives.  Hooded  carts  and 
waggons  with  pairs  of  beautiful  white  oxen  were 
continually  met  with,  and  added  life  and  beauty  to 
the  surrounding  scenery.  One  spot  seemed  to  tempt 
you  to  go  to  another. 

On  leaving  Outacamund,  I  made  for  hot  Trichi- 
nopoly,  passing  through  Seringam,  where  I  was 
quite  disappointed  with  the  great  temple  of  which 


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MADHAS.  211 

the  general  view  in  Fergusson  is  so  impressive.  He, 
however,  somewhat  prepares  you  for  this,  and  the 
warning  is  apt.  Besides  which,  strangers  are  sub- 
jected to  much  hindrance.  "  Trichi  "  (as  they  call 
it)  was  verj'  hot,  and  its  great  feature  is  a  great  hot 
rock,  once  part  of  a  now  entirely  demolished  fortress. 
Up  the  hot  sides  of  this  you  may  climb,  if  you  like, 
in  a  blazing  sun,  to  see  a  great  flat  panorama  round 
you,  called  by  the  Guide- Book  "jone  of  the  finest  pano- 
ramic views  in  India."  For  myself,  mere  extent  is 
not  synonymous  with  beauty,  and  very  often  quite 
inconsistent  with  it.  I  coolly  (as  coolly  as  I  could) 
declined  the  rock,  even  with  the  last  tempting  pro- 
mise of  the  guide  "  that  I  should  see  all  the  railway 
station."  Hence  I  visited  Tajore  and  returned,  ex- 
amining both  the  Great  Pagoda  and  the  Temple  of 
Soubramanya,  both  of  which  are  illustrated  and  fully 
discussed  by  Fergusson.  But  I  must  confess  that  I 
found  all  this  Hindoo  architecture  fall  short  in  its 
attraction  when  compared  with  the  dignity  of  the 
Muhammadan,  and  the  exquisite  pillars  and  porches 
of  the  Jains. 

All  the  detail  on  the  Gopuras  and  elsewhere  is  so 
crowded  and  confused,  and  so  eminently  trifling  (to 
say  nothing  more),  that  the  structures  bespeak  a  far 
inferior  people  by  their  own  far  inferior  conceptions  ; 
though  this  need  not  interfere  with  a  great  deal  of 
interest  and  curiosity  attaching  to  these  productions. 
Even  a  certain  amount  of  this  species  of  disappoint- 
ment attaches  to  the  exterior  of  the  Great  Temple  at 
Mddura  ;  but  the  structure  itself  is  vast  and  varied 
indeed;  and  where  the  interior  is  not  choked  and 

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212  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

bedaubed  with  barbarous  splashing  of  colouring,  the 
courts  are  full  of  majesty.  Nevertheless,  disfigura- 
tion predominates,  and  destroys  far  too  much  of 
what  would  otherwise  be  stately  and  majestic.  In 
one  part  of  the  edifice  I  was  astonished  by  the  ex- 
tensive and  busy  bazaar  that  was  being  held  ;  though 
there  was  a  certain  living  picturesqueness  produced 
by  the  varied  colouring  and  the  clamour.  Come  to 
the  south  for  clamour.  It  would  be  too  bad  to  say 
these  people  were  "  a  den  of  thieves  ;"  and  indeed 
nobody  had  yet  intruded  on  them  to  call  them  so, 
nor  to  overthrow  their  tables.  In  what  is  called  the 
Tirumulla  Nayak's  Choultrie  there  is  a  splendid 
corridor  ;  but  I  had  to  see  one  yet  more  splendid. 
From  Madura  I  continued  to  Tuticorin,  whence  I 
was  by-and-by  to  sail  for  Ceylon  ;  but  being  de- 
tained there  by  irregularity  in  the  boats,  I  made  the 
best  use  of  my  time  by  a  visit  to  Tinivelli  and  its  two 
temples  ;  they  were,  however,  so  hideously  disfigured 
by  paint  and  whitewash  and  brownwash,  and  the 
following  and  howling  people  were  so  jealous  of 
my^intrusion,  that  I  came  away  without  satisfaction, 
but  wholly  without  reluctance,  and  do  not  recommend 
any  one  to  go  there. 

At  last,  on  Saturday,  the  14th  of  December,  the 
Java  appeared  for  Colombo,  and  when  this  was 
well  certified  I  made  all  things  ready  and  went  with 
my  servant  on  board,  thus  finally  leaving  India, 
just  thirteen  months  after  I  had  landed  at  Cal- 
cutta. 


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XXIII. 


We  did  not  sail  till  the  Sunday  afternoon,  for 
certain  arrangements  had  to  ba  made  with  the  Port 
Officer,  one  of  which  entailed  the  disembarking  of  a 
host  of  coolies,  already  taken  on  board,  for  the  vessel 
was  declared  to  be  overloaded.  This  host  of  parti- 
coloured males  and  females  were  uncivilized  enough 
to  go  back  as  quietly  as  they  had  come  out,  and  left 
us  to  depart  at  three  o'clock.  Our  passage  was  pro- 
pitious, and  at  seven  o'clock  on  Monday,  the  i6th  of 
December,  I  landed  at  Colombo,  where  1  had  set 
foot  on  the  20th  of  November,  >i  888. 

I  did  not  come  to  pay  a  visit  to  Ceylon — the 
Taprobdna  of  Camoens  and  afterwards  the  Tapro- 
bane  of  Milton — which  used  to  present  itself  so 
fancifully  in  our  young  geographical  studies.  I  did 
not  picture  it  as  the  island  of  palms  and  spices,  and 
as  a  land  endowed  with  all  those  recorded  beauties 
and  attractions  that  made  the  East,  even  in  those 
days  of  only  yesterday,  a  region  of  the  imagination. 
For  if  facilities  of  locomotion  make  travelling  easy, 
it  must  be  at  the  expense  of  ideality  and  of  losing 
the  charm  of  absolute  novelty.  I  have  before  men- 
tioned the  constant  intrusion  of  Europe  wherever 
you  go,  and  that  you  never  can  get  rid  of  her.  Here 
at  Colombo  is  a  striking  example,  and  you  begin 
with    abundant    proof.     You    will    not    land    with 


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214  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

difficulty  on  a  "  palm-fringed "  shore,  breathing 
spicy  gales,  but  you  will  land  with  vulgar  facility, 
because  the  late  Sir  John  Coode  devised  a  magni- 
ficent breakwater  and  protected  a  spacious  harbour  ; 
and  though  the  waters  are  crowded  with  natives  in 
their  hollowed-out  "Catamarans"  or  "floating trees," 
aided  by  their  open  one-sided  outrigger  framework, 
and  ready  for  everything,  yet  there  is  the  welcome, 
vulgar  steam-launch  to  take  you,  western-like,  to 
shore  ;  and  when  you  get  there  you  will  seek  your 
comfort  in  a  European  structure  called  "  The  Grand 
Oriental  Hotel." 

I  arrived  in  this  beautiful  island  full  of  intention 
and  desire  to  see  the  most  of  it  within  a  reasonable 
time,  and  I  occupied  just  four  weeks  and  three  days 
traversing  some  part  of  it  and  steaming  round  it. 
This  latter  course  occupied  ten  days,  and  was  forced 
upon  me  by  my  determination  to  see  Ramisseram. 
How  was  this  last  to  be  accomplished }  I  soon 
found  out  there  was  just  one  way  and  one  only,  viz. 
to  get  on  board  the  steamer  that  made  periodical 
journeys  quite  round  the  island  and  always  called 
at  Paumben  on  the  way.  On  learning  this  I  imme- 
diately put  myself  in  communication  with  the  Steam- 
ship Company,  and  was  introduced  to  the  captain, 
Captain  Whitley,  of  the  Lady  Gordon,  He  was 
starting  in  two  days  on  his  then  next  passage,  going 
"  south  about " ;  but  he  recommended  me  by  all 
means  to  wait  for  the  next  turn,  which  would  be 
"north  about**  and  one  much  more  agreeable,  con- 
sidering winds  and  currents. 

Following  his  advice,  which   I  offer  to  others,  I 


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CEYLON.  21 S 

made  my  arrangements,  and  at  once  decided  to  start 
for  Kandy.  This  I  did  at  2  p.m.  on  Tuesday,  De- 
cember 17th,  and  reached  my  destination,  "The 
Queen's,"  at  6.40,  four  hours  and  forty  minutes  on 
the  train. 

The  almost  overwhelming  fertility  that  surrounds 
one,  especially  at  starting,  is  the  Jirst  impressive 
feature  of  this  journey.  I  am  not  about  to  descant 
upon  *'  palm-fringed  shores,"  for  I  don't  at  all  like 
them ;  they  are  extremely  flat,  marshy,  and  un- 
wholesome, though  crowded  with  vegetation  to  please 
the  eye  ;  and  for  two  hours  after  leaving  Colombo 
you  travel  through  this  style  of  country :  flags, 
cocoa-nut  palms,  and  all  manner  of  thick-growing, 
moist-looking  creepers ;  and  rice  grounds  and  their 
specially  offensive  features,  though  I  concede  the  vivid 
green  when  the  young  plant  is  growing.  Then  you 
begin  to  mount,  and  at  Kandy  you  reach  an  altitude 
of  some  1680  or  1700  feet.  Thickly-covered  hills  and 
dales  and  distant  mountains  are  the  general  cha- 
racteristics of  the  scenery,  interspersed  with  large 
patches  of  cultivation,  the  whole  suggesting  a  garden 
climate.  The  line  now  and  then  crosses  the  old 
road,  and  though  the  journey  in  its  time,  now  gone 
by,  might  have  been  tedious,  it  sometimes  seemed 
tantalizing  to  be  snatched  with  rapidity  by  steam 
over  spots  where  one  would  fain  have  lingered  to 
receive  an  abiding  impression.  The  gorges  are  in 
general  deep,  and  the  sides  abrupt,  and  the  features 
of  the  landscape  seem  all  very  close  together.  I 
was  also  astonished  at  the  quantity  of  close-grow- 
ing forest,  but  in  a  map  of  the  island  published  in 


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5l6  IVA.XDERINGS   AXD    IVONDER/NGS. 

1884  by   Mr.  J.   Ferguson,  of  the  Ceylon    Observer^ 
there  appear  these  figures  : — 

Acres. 
Total  area  of  the  island .         .       1 5,809.280 
Total  area  cultivated      .         .         2,997,100 
Total  area  of  good  forest  land        2,680,000 

Kandy  is  a  sort  of  Buddhist  "  Mecca,"  and  has  its 
great  Buddhist  Temple,  called  Maligawi.  Like 
the  Pagoda  at  Rangoon,  this  covers  (without  any 
irreligious  parenthesis  of,  "  or  is  supposed  to  do 
so")  a  tooth  of  Buddha.  Infidel  scoffers  have  at- 
tempted to  deride  the  tooth,  and  pretend  that  what 
has  been  shown  for  it  might  belong  to  a  croco- 
dile. I  still  remember  those  I  saw  at  Junagadh  ; 
but  so  it  is,  that  no  sooner  does  Faith  blossom 
than  Disbelief  attempts  to  blight  it.  Besides  which, 
the  tooth  cannot  be  too  large  for  either  of  the  huge 
recumbent  figures  that  I  saw,  one  at  Rangoon,  and 
the  other  at  Bangkok  in  Siam.  I  have  no  more 
difficulty,  however,  in  believing  in  the  tooth  for 
Buddhists  than  I  have  in  believing  other  revered 
curiosities  for  others.  The  temple  itself,  however, 
did  not  interest  me  so  much  as  those  I  have  already 
referred  to.  It  is  greatly  reverenced  by  the  Believers, 
many  of  whom,  however,  are  complaisant  enough  (in 
the  words  of  Mr.  Ferguson  of  Colombo)  "  to  accept 
a  new  religion  so  long  as  they  are  not  asked  to  give 
up  their  own." 

The  drives  and  walks  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Kandy  present  the  same  class  of  scenery  as  I  have 


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CEYLON.  217. 

described,  and  the  immediate  Lake  is  a  charming 
object ;  nor  is  the  course  round  its  shores  among 
the  least  attractive,  a  turn  which  I  enjoyed  one  very- 
fine,  indeed  lovely,  evening  on  my  way  to  dine  with 
Mr.  Gordon,  whose  hospitality,  as  well  as  that  of  all 
others  who  entertained  me,  I  choose  for  my  own 
satisfaction  to  immortalize  in  these,  of  course,  im- 
mortal pages — immortal,  that  is,  until  the  next  glacial 
period  shall  again  freeze  up  the  surface  of  the  world, 
and  destroy  for  another  space  all  that  therein  is. 

I  could  not  make  up  my  mind  to  leave  the  great 
Buddhist  centre  without  attempting  a  journey  to 
Anuradapura,  one  of  the  buried  cities  of  Ceylon, 
It  was  rather  an  undertaking,  because  although 
there  was  the  vulgar  convenience  of  a  railway  for  six- 
teen miles  as  far  as  Matale,  and  a  less  vulgar  but 
less  convenient  coach  thence  to  Dambulla,  yet  thence 
to  Anuradapura  was  to  cost  me  a  whole  night's 
travel,  and,  of  all  things,  in  a  bullock  coach  or 
covered  cart.  However,  people  had  done  it,  and  I 
followed  the  usual  mode,  strongly  recommended  by 
the  authorities,  of  booking  this  whole  coach  for  my- 
self (it  would  contain  only  two),  and  placing  a  board 
down  the  centre ;  this  was  to  be  covered  with  every 
wrapper  at  hand,  and  I  was  to  dream  (dreaming,  that 
is,  without  sleeping,  which  many  of  us  seem  often  to 
be  doing)  that  it  was  a  bed.  Accordingly  I  tele- 
graphed to  Dambulla  to  secure  this  luxury  for  the 
night  of  Saturday,  the  21st  of  December,  astronomi- 
cally the  longest  of  nights,  as  it  was  likely  to  be 
experimentally;  for  the  distance  was  forty-two  miles, 
and  I  was  not  to  arrive  before  the  lazy  sun  had  risen. 


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21 8  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

starting  soon  after  his  early  setting.  Let  me  make 
a  passing  observation  about  this  sun  which  is  so 
often  pointed  out  to  all  of  us  as  an  example.  The 
earlier  he  goes  to  bed  the  later  he  gets  up,  and  the 
later  he  goes  to  bed  the  earlier  he  gets  up.  How 
can  mortality  follow  so  absurd  an  example  ? 

Well,  I  embarked  on  my  railway,  content  that  all 
was  arranged  in  order.  But  on  getting  out  at  Matale 
I  was  pleasantly  hailed  by  an  obvious  clergyman, 
comparatively  young.  "  Good  morning  ;  I  conclude 
you  are  going  to  Anuradapura ;  so  am  I ;  Tm  glad 
we  shall  be  fellow-passengers  on  that  trying 
journey." 

This  is  what  you  are  liable  to.  So  much  for 
certainties  !  1  scarcely  had  the  heart  to  dis- 
close to  him  my  own  selfish  but  indispensable 
arrangements,  but  was  however  obliged  to  do  so. 
"  The  fault  is  mine,"  he  said  ;  "  I  ought  to  have 
inquired,  as  I  generally  do."  And  here  was  what  is 
commonly  called  a  **fix,*'  for  there  was  no  train 
back,  and  he  was  on  duty  and  I  was  on  necessity ; 
for  the  journey  with  a  squeeze  of  two  was  for  me 
impossible.  As  he  was  a  thorough  gentleman  and 
quite  sincere,  I  shall  not  shrink  from  the  phrase  in 
which  he  expressed  his  dilemma:  "  Dear,  dear,"  said 
he ;  "I  am  under  a  solemn  engagement  to  preach, 
and  I  only  wish  to  please  God  Almighty." 

The  result  was  that,  as  I  intended  to  stop  at  Dam- 
bulla  on  returning  to  see  some  Buddhist  caves,  I 
suggested  the  chance  to  him  that  I  would  reverse 
this  plan,  and  stop  to  see  them  on  going,  if  he  could 
secure  me  with  the  post-master  the  whole  wagon  for 


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CEYLON.  219 

the  next  night.  So  we  both  got  on  the  horse  coach 
together,  and  so  far  I  was  exceedingly  glad  of  his 
company  as  the  bullock  luxury  was  not  now  at  all 
in  danger.  I  trace  this  anecdote  through  because  I 
here  experienced  an  exhibition  of  the  missionary 
mind,  such  as  pervades  what  we  call  Pagan  countries, 
lying  in  outer  darkness,  i.e.  not  following  European 
Faith ;  and  I  do  so  without  misgiving,  because  in 
this  case  my  companion  was  (as  I  have  said)  sincere 
and  courteous.  The  truth  is,  that  he  instinctively 
spoke  in  missionary  style,  but  free  from  cant.  Thus 
we  kept  up  an  entertaining  interchange  of  views  and 
thoughts,  and  I  was  reminded  of  an  observation 
attributed  to  the  late  Archbishop  Whately — ^so  good 
that  it  ought  to  be  his — when  he  said  to  a  young 
missionary  clergyman,  about  to  embark  on  his 
religious  enterprise  :  "  When  you  are  trying  to  con- 
vert anyone  try  to  answer  your  own  difficulties."  It 
seemed  to  me,  sometimes,  that  this  was  what  my  very 
candid  companion  was  doing.  But  when  the  coach 
at  last  stopped  at  Dambulla,  at  the  end  of  its  twenty- 
nine  miles,  his  final  observation  disclosed  the  tone 
of  his  own  mind,  and  is  instructive,  I  think,  as 
regards  those  who  really  believe  that  what  they 
themselves  believe  is  the  only  real  belief:  and  not 
only  so,  but  that  they  are  bound  to  bring  others  to 
the  same  belief.  **  I  quite  appreciate  all  you  have 
been  saying,  and  have  discussed  these  things  with 
myself,  but  what  I  have  been  at  last  permitted  to 
attain  to,  and  what  I  hope  for  you,  is  that,  in  the 
language  of  St.  Paul,  you  may  rise  to  a  spiritual 
understanding  of  things."     There  was  a  good  dash 


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220  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

of  poetic  enthusiasm  in  the  mind  of  my  companion, 
and  is  not  the  religious  sentiment  essentially 
poetical  ?  No  one  who  knows  Ceylon  will  fail  to 
recognize,  in  this  interview,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Garrett. 

After  all  these  theoretical  discussions  there  now 
came  the  rude  and  practical  one  :  How  was  faith  to  be 
kept  by  the  preacher  as  to  time,  for  no  one  was  at 
hand  to  work  a  miracle  ?  So  Mr.  Garrett  immediately 
went  to  the  Post  Office  to  arrange,  if  possible,  what  I 
had  suggested  ;  but  alas  !  he  returned  with  an  un- 
favourable reply,  whereupon  we  both  remained  with 
our  mouths  open,  but  quite  as  silent  as  open.  Fortu- 
nately, however,  someone  else  spoke  and  said,  "  You 
have  not  been  to  the  head  man."  How  often  is  the 
subordinate  more  absolute  and  obdurate  than  the 
head  ?  This  was  the  case  here,  and  I  cheerfully 
altered  my  plan,  Mr.  Garrett  thus  getting  away  with 
the  coach  to  himself,  and  his  pulpit  being  furnished 
as  was  promised.  I  remained  under  only  one  mis- 
giving, that  somebody  less  congenial  might  come  up 
the  next  afternoon  and  present  the  like  difficulty  by 
making  the  like  request,  and  so  on  ad  infinitum. 

However,  I  took  my  rest,  and  on  the  following 
morning  visited  the  Buddhist  temple.  As  Dambulla 
can  show  "the  largest  and  most  celebrated  rock 
temples  in  Ceylon,"  it  may  be  worth  visiting  by 
many  on  this  account,  and  there  is  a  very  welcome 
pamphlet  on  the  subject,  written  by  Mr.  S.  M. 
Burrows,  M.A.,  Oxon.,  entitled,  "  The  Buried  Cities 
of  Ceylon."  But  I  must  wholly  dissent  from  the 
expression  in  his  preface,  where  he  talks  of  a  nation 
that "  could  carve  a  mountain  into  a  graceful  shrine." 


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CEYLON.  221 

The  mountain  itself  is  certainly  ungraceful  enough, 
though  there  is  a  splendid  view  from  it ;  and  the 
caves  are  in  truth  but  little  less  so.  To  a  certain 
extent  they  are,  I  suppose,  carved,  but  the  leading 
character  of  all  the  five  that  I  visited  is,  that  vast,  as 
well  as  small,  ugly  natural  cavities  in  the  mountain 
have  been  adapted.  They  are  most  curious  to  behold, 
but  they  are  not  elegant,  nor  were  the  priests  one  whit 
more  so.  But  you  ought  to  go  and  see  them,  even 
if  you  don't  worry  yourself  and  the  bullocks  as  far 
as  Anuradapura.  The  whole  visit  comprehends  a 
strange  exhibition  of  piety  and  of  picturesque  rude- 
ness of  art  amidst  rude  features.  There  are  Buddhas 
of  all  descriptions  :  of  small  there  are  many,  and  of 
large  there  is  one ;  and  belonging  to  this  large  one 
there  are  a  pair  of  naked  feet  showing  the  soles, 
standing  square  together  upon  the  heels,  and  justify- 
ing, to  my  surprise,  a  drawing  of  such  things  in 
Ferguson's  book. 

Evening  now  came  on,  the  horse  coach  had  arrived, 
and  I  was  to  dine  and  prepare  for  my  bullock  journey 
by  half-past  six,  expecting  no  further  interference 
with  my  arranged  movements.  But,  behold,  as  I 
entered  for  my  repast  a  half-caste  figure  stood  at  the 
door.  Like  the  ghost  of  Monk  Lewis'  "Alonzo  the 
Brave  "— 

"  He  spoke  not,  he  stirred  not,  he  looked  not  around, 
But  eagerly  gazed" — upon  me! 

I  felt  certain  of  his  intent,  and  took  no  external 
notice  of  him,  but  inwardly  from  the  first  determined, 
like   Sterne    with   the  Monk,  to  resist  any  request. 


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222  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

Therefore,  when  I  had  finished,  and  I  found  him  still 
standing  in  the  same  place,  it  required  nothing  to 
make  me  firm.  But  had  this  not  been  so,  he  would 
himself  have  settled  the  question,  for  at  last  he 
persuaded  himself  to  make  his  appeal  for  a  seat  to 
"  my  Christian  consideration."  This  was  not  only 
enough,  but  too  much  ;  it  was  of  the  too  frequently 
encountered  slang,  a  strong  specimen  of  which  in  a 
newspaper  boy  I  had  encountered  at  Coimbatore,  so  I 
shortly  denied  him,  and  told  him  why,  as  already 
explained,  besides  which  a  small  boy  servant  was 
indispensable  to  me.  But  as  he  persisted  in  his 
phrase  I  had  to  meet  it  with  a  round  untruth,  and 
straightway  declared  myself  to  be  a  Buddhist,  in  order 
to  be  rid  of  him.  This  shut  him  up,  and  the  driver 
allowed  him  to  *^ hang  on*' somewhere  up  to  a  cer- 
tain distance.  Meanwhile  I  got  through  the  night 
upon  my  plank  bed  as  best  I  could,  rather  cheered 
than  disturbed  in  fitful  sleep  by  the  bugle  and  the 
bells,  the  former  assuring  me  that  we  had  reached  yet 
another  change,  and  the  latter  that  the  oxen  were 
trotting.  By  daylight  to  Anuradapura  we  came.  I 
spent  the  Sunday  and  Monday  there,  calling  on  the 
Government  Agent,  Mr.  Murray,  who  asked  me  to 
breakfast  on  the  Monday,  where  I  again  met  my 
friend  Mr.  Garrett.  Mr.  Murray  then  very  kindly 
drove  me  about  on  view  of  all  things. 

I  cannot  say  I  think  that  the  general  traveller  would 
feel  greatly  gratified  with  what  Anuradapura  has  to 
show  him.  With  the  purely  historical  and  profes- 
sionally architectural  it  might  be  otherwise.  The 
more  attractive  drawings  in  Ferguson  give  promise 


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CEYLON,  223 

of  much  more  size  and  importance  in  the  originals 
than  they  possess,  and  of  the  old  palaces  absolutely 
nothing  remains  but  what  appear  to  have  been  the 
under  peggings  of  various  stone  columns  or  pillars. 
The  most  surprising  group  of  these  belongs  to  what 
is  called  Lowa  Maha  Paya,  or  the  Great  Brazen 
Monastery,  and  their  number  is  given  as  1600.  They 
stand  about  twelve  feet  high,  and  I  walked  to  and 
fro  in  this  stone  forest  with  a  curious  sense  of  novelty. 
There  are  also  several  of  those  ugly  and  unsightly 
things  called  dagobas,  and,  as  a  variety,  these  are 
generally  surrounded  with  carved  pillars  with  capitals. 
But  the  great  natural  curiosity  of  the  place  is  the  Bo' 
Tree,  reputed  to  be  the  second  oldest  historical  tree 
in  the  world.  It  is  said  to  have  been  planted  245 
years  B.C.  from  a  branch  of  the  Sacred  Bo'  Tree,  under 
which  Gautama  sat  on  the  day  that  he  attained  to 
Buddhahood.  Here  is  the  story,  as  recounted  by  Mr. 
Burrows  ;  it  is  worth  quite  as  much  as  many  others. 
"  The  Royal  Missionary  Mahindo  had  converted  the 
Rajah  and  people  of  Anuradapura  to  the  tenets  of 
pure  Buddhism,  and  with  miraculous  rapidity. 
Queen  Anula  and  thousands  of  her  countrywomen 
with  her  became  converts.  Mahindo,  feeling  unable 
to  administer  so  many  vows  of  self-devotion,  sug- 
gested that  his  sister  Sanghamitta  should  be  sent 
for  to  do  what  he  could  not  She  came,  and  with 
her  the  King  of  Pataliputua  sent  a  branch  of  the 
Sacred  Bo*  Tree,  under  which  Gautama  sat  on  the 
day  that  he  attained  to  Buddhahood." 

My  curiosity  and  interest  having  been  gratified,  I 
encountered  the  necessary  return  midnight  journey 


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224  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/NGS, 

to  Dambulla  ;  and  on  Tuesday,  the  24th,  Christmas 
Eve,  found  myself  again  at  Kandy,  walking  along 
the  row  of  trees  that  border  the  attractive  lake. 

After  another  whole  morning  spent  on  the  beauti- 
fully wooded  hills  of  Kandy,  instead  of  returning 
direct  to  Colombo  I  diverged  to  Nawara  Eliya,  to 
enjoy  that  fine  air,  upwards  of  6000  feet  above  the 
sea.  From  Nanu  Oya  there  is  a  fine  coach  drive  of 
about  four  miles,  which  adds  to  the  pleasure  of  the 
journey.  Here  I  walked  through  a  tea  estate  called 
"  The  Scrubs,"  and  was  shown  some  of  the  mysteries 
of  a  tea  factory  :  how  they  turn  a  slanting  perforated 
cylinder  to  separate  the  small  young  leaves  from  the 
large,  and  how  the  black  tea  is  produced  by  fermen- 
tation ;  and  how  the  green  is  the  unfermented  ;  and 
lastly,  to  my  surprise,  how  all  is  close  packed  in  the 
chests  in  a  dry  piping  hot  condition.  And  having 
thus  satisfied  this  curiosity,  as  I  had  satisfied  another 
at  Anuradapura,  I  returned  to  Colombo. 

Here  I  was  to  prepare  at  once  for  my  passage 
round  the  island,  made  necessary,  as  I  have  said,  by 
a  determined  visit  to  Paumben,  in  order  to  see  the 
Temple  of  Ramisseram.  On  the  afternoon  of  the 
31st  of  December  I  accordingly  embarked  on  board 
the  Lady  Gordon,  with  her  pleasant  captain,  Captain 
Whitley,  Mr.  Pace,  the  Company's  agent,  accom- 
panying also.  After  sunset  on  the  ist  of  January, 
1890,  we  landed  at  Paumben  in  boats  for  a  certain 
small  distance.  I  had  previously  telegraphed  to  Mr. 
Carlyon,  the  port  officer,  as  to  my  letter  from  Captain 
Street ;  and  while  on  our  way  we  were  met  by  his 
servant,  bearing  a  letter  to  our  captain  on  the  subject. 


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RAMISSERA  M.  225 

He  returned  with  us ;  and  I  use  the  plural  because 
Mr.  Pace,  and  the  first  officer,  Mr.  Porter,  a  planter, 
and  another  passenger,  determined  to  make  the 
venture  of  coming  with  me.  I  delivered  my  letter, 
and  we  took  Mr.  Carlyon  quite  by  surprise ;  but  a 
more  hearty  reception  could  not  have  been  offered ; 
and  well  indeed  it  was  that  this  was  so,  for  otherwise 
we  could  not  have  managed  Ramisseram  within  the 
limited  time  of  stopping.  We  really  invaded  the 
house,  and  forthwith  all  sorts  of  preparations  were 
made  for  feeding  us  and  lodging  us.  Tins  were  opened, 
beds  on  chairs  and  sofas  were  improvised,  bottles 
of  wine  and  beer  were  opened  ;  in  short,  we  gloriously 
ate  and  slept.  But  time  was  running  against  us,  and 
that  he  should  not  go  too  swift  for  us  and  run  us 
ashore,  Mr.  Carlyon  called  out  all  his  dependable 
people  to  furnish  bullock  carts  for  us  in  the  very 
early  morning.  These  were  to  be  ready  at  the  door 
by  four  o'clock,  and  not  till  we  were  assured  they 
would  be  so  could  we  lie  down  to  rest. 

As  surely  as  four  o'clock  struck  there  were  the 
carts,  and  there  was  the  hot  coffee  ;  and  without  scald- 
ing our  mouths,  off  we  were.  Mr.  Carlyon  of  course 
came  with  us  ;  we  should  have  lost  much  pleasure 
could  he  not  have  done  so.  We  had  seven  miles  to 
go  to  get  to  the  temple,  and  the  road  lay  tolerably  easy 
under  a  constant  canopy  of  an  avenue  of  trees.  The 
bullocks  trotted  famously ;  they  were  of  the  small 
white  active  kind,  and  the  carts  were  light.  Still 
some  small  anxiety  disturbed  my  mind  about  the 
steamer,  but  this  was  at  once  most  easily  allayed  : 
"  Oh,"  said  Mr.  Carlyon,  "  I  am  the  pilot ;  they  can't 

Q 


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226  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

go  without  me,  and  the  tide  won't  fit  till  ten."  And 
hence  we  were  at  peace.  In  went  the  prods,  and  on 
went  the  bullocks,  and  to  the  temples  we  came.  Like 
Abu,  the  outside  was  nothing.  We  were  to  go  to  the 
proper  entrance,  and  drove  round  the  building.  I 
hastened  in.  I  had  certainly  been  somewhat  pre- 
pared for  what  I  was  to  see  by  the.  engraving  and 
descriptions  in  Fergusson  ;  and  yet  was  I  quite  im- 
prepared  for  what  1  did  see.  These  corridors  are 
almost  overwhelming.  On  each  side  you  have  a 
corridor,  with  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  of  floor 
width,  anjd  a  height  of  about  thirty  feet  to  the  centre 
of  the  roof,  and  these  are  flanked  on  both  sides  with 
large  massive  integral,  and  elaborate  pillars,  lighted 
by  an  inner  small  aisle  ;  and  the  whole  uninterrupted 
length  extends  to  no  less  than  700  feet.  Well  may 
Fergusson  say  that  no  engraving  can  convey  an  idea 
of  the  scene.  To  stand  at  the  end  of  this  unexampled 
perspective  provokes  a  desire  to  walk  down  and 
through  it  to  the  end,  and  when  at  last  you  have 
arrived  at  the  end,  you  have  but  to  turn  to  find  it  all 
before  you  again,  provoking  a  repeated  traverse. 
Grandeur  can  here  speak  for  itself,  but  it  likewise 
commands  your  wonder  for  this  very  Labour  of 
Hercules  that  must  have  been  here  performed. 

Fergusson's  engraving  gives  only  the  centre  cor- 
ridor, which  is  the  shortest ;  to  give  the  two  side 
ones  would  be  impossible  ;  but  I  have  a  photograph 
which  I  bought  at  Madras  in  which  the  700  feet  of 
length  has  been  attempted.  In  this  photograph  the 
beautiful  play  of  light  has  been  very  successfully 
caught,  while  one  most  deplorable  blemish  in  both  is 


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RAMISSERA.Xf.  22/ 

not  apparent.  To  use  Fergusson's  too  trusty  words, 
"  within  the  last  few  years  these  corridors  have  been 
painted  "  (splashed)  "  with  a  vulgarity  that  is  incon- 
ceivable on  the  part  of  the  descendants  of  those  who 
built  this  fane ;  they  have  been  dosed  with  repeated 
coats  of  whitewash  so  as  to  take  off  all  the  sharpness 
of  detail,  and  then  painted  over  with  blue,  green,  and 
yellow  washes,  so  as  to  destroy  and  disfigure  the 
effect  to  an  extent  that  must  be  seen  to  be  believed." 
This  very  strong  protest  is  too  well  founded,  though 
not  so  fully  applicable  to  the  grand  side  corridors  as 
to  the  central  of  which  he  especially  speaks.  But 
the  side  corridors  have  suffered  also,  and  the  majesty 
of  the  stone  has  been  almost  everywhere  basely 
defiled. 

"  Nihil  est  ab  omni 
Parte  beatum." 

There  is  always  a  "  but "  somewhere.  Perhaps 
the  gods  were  jealous  of  the  fane,  and  set  mortals  to 
defile  the  work  of  mortals.  But  such  was  and  such 
is  Ramisseram.  My  companions  in  part  amused 
themselves  with  those  ugly  dances,  and  still  uglier 
instruments,  belonging  to  Nach  girls,  who  were 
allowed  inside  the  temple.  A  young  elephant  was 
also  allowed  to  intrude  his  trunk.  These  utterly 
ugly  shows  of  the  Nach  girls  are  to  me  offensive  any- 
where. I  thought  them  blasphemous  among  the 
corridors  of  Ramisseram,  where  I  wandered  and  pon- 
dered until  it  was,  all  too  soon,  full  time  to  go. 

Safe  with  the  pilot,  I  cared  not  how  long  I  stayed. 
We  jogged  back  safely  with   our  faithful  bullocks, 

Q  2 


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223  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

and  at  ten  o'clock  precisely  were  on  board  and  off 
for  Jaffna. 

At  Jaffna  we  disgorged  four  missionaries ;  they 
were  appointed  to  do  work  there,  and  as  they 
departed  in  their  boat  they  broke  forth  in  hymnal 
choir  upon  the  waters.  They  had  asked  and 
obtained  permission  to  hold  their  service  on  deck, 
and  in  this  case  no  inconvenience  was  caused,  as  none 
could  be  interrupted  or  offended  ;  but  I  have  been  on 
board  one  or  two  of  our  crowded  English  steamers 
where  this  illegitimate  intrusion  was  unbearable 
among  different  beliefs. 

The  next  point  of  interest  in  my  compulsory 
voyage  round  the  island  was  the  far-famed  harbour 
of  Trincomalee — the  most  important  naval  station 
in  these  regions,  and  among  the  chief  harbours  of 
the  world.  And  that  it  has  been  so  regarded  is 
made  evident  by  the  repeated  contests  for  its  posses- 
sion. From  1639  to  1795  it  five  times  changed 
hands  between  the  Dutch  and  French,  until  in  the 
last  year  it  was  taken  by  the  English,  and  confirmed 
to  England  by  the  Treaty  of  Amiens  in  1801.  As 
regards  the  scenery  it  is  remarkably  pretty,  the 
water  being  circular,  and  the  surroundings  consisting 
of  green  hills.  I  should  not  deem  it  worth  going 
to  see,  though  certainly  worth  seeing,  but  how  Mr. 
John  Fergusson,  of  Colombo,  in  his  highly  interest- 
ing lecture  before  our  Royal  Colonial  Institute,  on 
Ceylon,  can  for  one  moment  talk  of  its  being  "  more 
beautiful"  than  the  splendid  harbour  of  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
I  do  not  understand.  He  does,  however,  qualify 
this  by  "  I  believe  ;  *'  and  as  we  all  know  the  power  of 


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CEYLON.  229 

'*  belief,"  we  may  let  the  patriotic  phrase  ^o  by.  The 
harbour,  however,  can  ^dd  its  great  natural  and 
national  importance  to  its  appearance  ;  and  therefore 
can  command  a  special  interest  as  belonging  to  our 
great  maritime  power.  For  these  reasons  I  am  very 
glad  to  have  visited  and  realized  it,  though  I  may 
hope  never  to  have  occasion  to  recall  it  on  any  too 
interesting  and  alarming  an  occasion.  We  entered 
at  night  on  the  4th,  and  did  not  leave  till  the 
afternoon  of  the  6th  ;  but  I  did  not  go  on  shore, 
simply  for  the  sake  of  going  on  shore.  The  view 
was  the  best  from  on  deck,  nor  had  I  any  introduc- 
tion to  the  resident  naval  commander-in-chief,  who,  I 
understood,  was  not  there.  The  rest  of  our  passage 
was  comparatively  uninteresting,  though  we  touched 
here  and  there,  till  the  vast  lighthouse  building  at 
Dondra  Head  attracted  our  attention.  Galle  was 
our  last  touching  point,  and  we  rode  into  Colombo 
at  early  morning  on  Friday,  the  loth  of  January, 
1890,  having  completed  a  very  pleasant  round  of 
nine  days  and  a  half  with  our  pleasant  skipper, 
Captain  Whitley. 

Once  again  at  Colombo,  I  was  bound  for  Java  by 
Singapore,  and  had  just  five  days  at  my  disposal. 
But  I  was  to  leave  Ceylon  without  picking  up  any 
pearls ;  and  also  without  ascending  Adam's  Peak,  the 
head  of  which  I  had  again  caught  sight  of  from  some 
point  in  our  passage  round.  And  this  latter  neglect 
was  wilful,  though  I  must  confess  to  have  long  felt 
an  interest  in  it  from  its  being  pointedly  mentioned 
in  The  Lusiads  of  Camoens.  Thus  runs  the  first  half 
of  stanza  cxxxvi.  of  Canto  x.,  and  my  translation  : 


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230  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

'*  Olha  em  CeilSo  que  o  monte  se  alevanta 
Tan  to  que  as  nuvens  passa,  ou  a  vista  engana  ; 
Os  naturaes  o  tern  por  cousa  santa, 
Pela  pedra  onde  estd  a  p^gada  humana." 

**  Sec  in  Ceylon  so  high  a  mountain  rise 
It  caps  the  clouds,  or  doth  the  sight  mislead  ; 
The  natives  hold  it  sacred  in  their  eyes, 
For  there's  the  stone  with  mark  where  man  did  tread." 

This  man,  of  course,  was  Adam  ;  and  as  the  moun- 
tain is  only  7352  feet  high  there  is  a  spice  of  exag- 
geration in  the  poetry  ;  but  as  most  prose  travellers 
arc  (so  to  speak)  prosaic,  or  prosers,  in  their  exag- 
gerations, Camoens  may  be  pardoned  as  a  poet. 

The  man,  as  I  have  said,  was  Adam  ;  he  and  Eve, 
whom  I  have  always  suspected  he  falsely  accused, 
having  sought  amidst  these  enchanting  island  scenes 
a  refuge  that  might,  in  some  sense,  recall  that  garden 
whence  they  had  been  expelled  when  all  was  lost, 
and  when 

*'  They  hand  in  hand,  with  wandering  steps  and  slow, 
Through  Eden  took  their  solitary  way." 

Hence  Adam's  Peak,  and  also  Adam's  Bridge  that 
intercepts  the  passage  to  Calcutta.  These  two  tradi- 
tional first  human  beings  were  apparently  allowed 
repose  after  their  transgression,  while  Pilate,  after 
his,  was  driven  to  Monte  Pilato,  and  there,  I  believe, 
committed  suicide,  as  well  indeed  he  might,  so  far  as 
I  remember  that  uninviting  dwelling.  But  all  things 
change  according  to  surrounding  influences.  And  I 
am  given  to  understand  that  this  footprint  of  Adam  s 
is  now  entirely  claimed  as  that  of  Buddha,  and   so 


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CEYLON.  231 

revered  by  all  the  thousands  of  Buddhist  pilgrims 
that  labour  up  the  mountain  with  their  priests. 
What  the  size  of  the  footprint  may  be  I  know  not, 
but  from  what  I  have  heard  it  might  belong  to  one 
of  the  gigantic  Buddhas.  Indeed,  who  can  believe 
that  Adam  would  ever  have  toiled  up  that  mountain, 
having  come  so  far  as  Ceylon  for  the  blessing  of 
repose  ?  And  it  is  not  to  be  believed  that  he  was 
so  gigantic  a  man  as  was  the  Noe,  whose  lengthy 
tomb  many  of  us  have  seen  in  Palestine.  So  far  as 
an  ascent  of  the  mountain  is  actually  concerned,  the 
morning  and  evening  Shadow  must  be  the  attraction, 
besides  the  view  which  must  be  grand.  But  I  had 
ascended  the  1 2,200  of  Tenerife  as  published  already, 
and  nothing  here  could  have  been  otherwise  than  a 
diminished  exhibition.  Otherwise^  as  I  may  now 
safely  enough  say,  I  should  have  ventured  the 
fatigue. 

Fortunately  I  had  met  at  the  hotel  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Burnett,  who  had  been  fellow-passengers  from  London 
to  Calcutta,  he  having  constructed  the  waterworks 
at  Colombo.  I  therefore  had  the  advantage  of 
driving  about  with  them,  and  in  one  of  their  drives 
v/e  went  to  the  head  of  his  works.  The  rush  of 
splendid  water  through  certain  ingeniously  arranged 
courses  excited  my  interest  and  curiosity,  but  equally 
defied  my  criticism.  Not  so  one  of  the  ugliest  of 
towers  I  ever  saw— not  due  to  Mr.  Burnett  by  any 
means — which  had  been  extolled  for  its  beauty  by 
high  authority.  The  view  over  the  city,  swallowed 
up,  almost,  by  trees,  is  very  striking.  Another  drive 
was  to  the  Cinnamon   Gardens ;    a    phrase  which 


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232  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

sounds  engagingly  poetical.  But,  in  truth,  the 
cinnamon  is  produced  from  a  somewhat  common- 
place looking  shrub,  not  very  much  unlike  a  vtry 
poor  laurel,  this  in  its  real  form  being  a  beautiful 
shrub.  The  garden  also  is  quite  flat,  so  that  al- 
though the  visit  is  highly  interesting,  not  much 
beauty  should  be  anticipated.  Another  excursion 
was  to  the  oldest  Buddhist  Dagoba  called  "  Kelamy," 
presenting  the  usual  bulging  lump  of  curious  ugliness. 
In  all  these  drives  we  continually  passed  through 
roads  overwhelmed  with  foliage,  and  continually 
bought  green  cocoa  nuts  to  enjoy  their  juice. 

But  the  last  day  came  at  last,  and  on  Wednesday, 
the  15th  of  January,  1890, 1  went  on  board  the  Bremen 
steamer  Braunschweigery  Captain  Stormer,  bound 
for  Singapore  on  my  way  to  Java.  Yet  must  I 
recount  a  curious  fact  that  happened  in  the  harbour 
a  day  or  two  before  I  left ;  a  fact  inseparable  alto- 
gether from  the  ludicrous,  and  yet  mixed  with  the 
regretful.  A  Brazilian  man-of-war,  the  Almirante 
BarrosOyyfhxch  had  been  out  on  a  long  cruise,  rode  in, 
carrying  the  Imperial  colours,  with  one  of  the  princes 
as  second  lieutenant  on  board  :  Don  Augusto,  son  of 
the  Due  Saxe  Coburgh,  and  the  Princess  Leopoldina, 
second  daughter  of  the  late  Dom  Pedro  II.  Then,  for 
the  first  time,  the  prince  was  made  aware,  with  the 
captain  and  officers  and  crew,  of  the  revolution 
which  had  driven  his  grandfather  from  the  throne 
and  country,  and  established  a  republic  in  the  place 
of  an  Empire.  The  young  prince  was  in  the  coffee- 
room  once  or  twice,  and  seemed  as  he  might  have 
seemed  had  such  things  not  happened.     His  person  I 


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CEYLOX.  233 

should  call  pale,  and  somewhat  delicate ;  and  his  small 
voice  was  exactly  that  of  the  late  Emperor.  If  the 
Empire  is  ever  to  be  restored,  it  must  be  so  in  the 
person  of  the  Prince  of  Grao  Pari,  the  son  of  the 
eldest  daughter.  Princess  Isabel,  and  the  Comte  D*eu, 
son  of  the  Due  de  Nemours.  But  Brazil  will  choose 
for  itself,  and  I  have  every  sympathetic  reason  to 
hope  that  she  will  do  well. 


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XXIV. 

A  PASSAGE  of  six  days,  without  incident,  brought 
us  to  Singapore — I  believe  they  still  spell  it  so — ^and 
I  went  to  the  H6tel  de  TEurope.  The  approach  to 
the  place  is  remarkably  green  and  pretty,  but  all  is 
very  flat,  and  the  wharfs  where  you  are  landed  are 
some  three  or  four  miles'  drive  from  the  hotel. 
There  was  nothing  here  I  cared  to  stay  for,  and  on  the 
following  day,  the  22nd,  which  curiously  enough  was 
the  New  Year's  Day  of  the  city  with  all  things  closed 
for  the  holiday,  I  managed  a  ticket  for  Batavia 
by  the  French  boat  of  that  evening.  On  going  on 
board,  however,  at  4.30,  I  found  our  departure  was 
delayed  till  the  next  day.  This  was  a  question  of 
mails,  and  therefore  ought  to  be  noted.  The  Oxus 
from  Bordeaux  had  not  arrived.  However,  at  11 
a.m.,  on  the  23rd,  we  positively  sailed,  and  after  a 
holiday  passage  arrived  on  the  25th  at  Tanjong  (Port) 
Preok  in  Java,  curiously  called  "The  Netherland 
Indies"  by  the  Dutch.  This  passage  is,  I  believe, 
alway-s  fair  and  placid,  in  evidence  of  which  our 
steamer  carried  a  wooden  awning.  Nobody  stops  in 
Batavia,  so  that  on  meeting  the  Commissioner  from 
the  "Hotel  Java"  at  Weltevreden,  at  a  not  incon- 
venient distance,  I  drove  thither  with  him  and  found 
a  very  pleasant  French  landlady,  though  hampered 
sadly  with  Dutch  colonial  modes  of  living. 


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JAVA.  235 

After  settling  down,  however,  in  a  large  bedroom 
opening  on  a  large  verandah,  I  found  a  notice  had 
been  put  into  my  hand  which  the  slow  Commissioner 
ought  to  have  taken  care  of  at  Batavia.  It  was  an 
evidence  of  the  Dutch  jealousy  and  timidity  as  to 
strangers.  I  should  at  once  have  given  notice  of  arrival, 
and  asked  permission  to  remain  for  four  days,  I  believe. 
The  landlady  suggested  I  should  call  on  the  Resident, 
and  explain  the  case,  the  late  hour,  nine  o'clock^  not 
signifying.  Accordingly,  I  wrote  my  letter  to  be 
presented,  and  drove  off  to  present  it  The  whole 
affair,  and  what  presently  occurred,  reminded  me 
somewhat  of  the  ancient  style  of  things  as  they 
recounted  them  to  me  at  the  Cape,  where  the  Dutch 
martinet  system  for  years  ruled  triumphant.  The 
Residents  name  was  Metman,  and  the  Resident's 
house  was  a  good  pretentious  one,  surrounded  by  a 
white  pillared  outside  corridor.  I  was  walking  up  the 
broad  steps  to  it,  arranging  my  card  and  letter  to  send 
in  when  I  had  rung,  or  clapped  my  hands,  when  a 
solemn  voice  invaded  my  ear,  and  looking  up  I  beheld 
a  large  figure,  who  was  evidently  the  Resident  him- 
self; he  had  come  out  to  meet  me,  and  proved  to  be 
as  pretentious  as  his  house. 

''La  premiere  chose  qu'on  fait  ici,'*  said  he.  ad- 
dressing me  in  French,  "en  entrant  dans  une  maison  est 
d'oter  son  chapeau  ;  c'est  une  grande  faute  de  politesse 
de  ne  pas  le  (aire.'*  Had  he  held  a  scimitar  in  his 
hand  he  ought  to  have  chopped  my  head  off  in  con- 
formity with  his  rebuke.  I  could  not  provoke  him  very 
safely  for  (as  I  erroneously  supposed)  1  had  come  to  ask 
his  pardon  for  an  omission  ;  so  I  controlled  my  sense 


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236  WAXDEHINGS  AXD    WOXDERIXGS. 

of  the  ridiculous,  as  well  as  some  small  offence,  by 
politely  reminding  him  that  his  corridor  was  yet 
outside,  and  in  truth  that  the  "  premiere  personne  "  I 
had  expected  to  meet  was  "  la  domestique  "  and  not 
"son  Excellence"  himself.  He  gradually  softened, 
read  my  letter,  asked  if  I  had  a  passport,  and  fumbled 
out  something  which  meant,  more  or  less,  that  I 
must  appeal  to  the  Governor  of  the  Island,  and  went 
in,  leaving  me  staring.  So  the  next  day,  though  it 
was  Sunday,  I  called  on  our  Consul,  Mr.  McNeil, 
who  received  me  very  pleasantly,  somewhat  smiled  at 
my  account  of  the  interview,  and  enlightened  me  on 
two  points :  first,  that  the  Resident  was  quite  the 
wrong  person  to  go  to,  for  he  had  no  authority 
whatever  in  the  matter ;  and  secondly,  that  he  was 
not  entitled  to  **  Excellency,"  both  of  which  small 
mistakes  on  my  part  fully  accounted  for  his  assumed 
comical  self-importance.  The  next  day  all  was 
easily  arranged  at  the  Police  Office ;  but  my 
friend,  the  Resident,  had  actually  privately  sent 
to  the  hotel  to  inquire  about  a  stranger  who  was 
travelling  about  the  island  "sans  papiers."  The 
anecdote  may  seem  trite,  but  it  means  a  good 
deal.  The  authorities  are  exceedingly  jealous,  and 
fines  are  imposed  unless  rules  are  strictly  attended 
to ;  though  escapes  were  recounted  to  me.  The 
difficulty  in  these  last  cases  is  that  the  captains  of 
the  steamers  are  held  responsible,  and  are  therefore 
quite  on  the  alert  to  defend  themselves  in  case  of 
need. 

The  grand  object  of  my  coming  to  the  island  was 
to   see   the   famous   Buddhist    Temple,  or  Pagoda, 


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JAVA.  237 

known  as  Boro  Buddor ;  and  in  order  to  accomplish 
this  in  the  easiest  mode,  I  had  to  take  the  steamer  to 
Samarang.  But  it  did  not  leave  till  the  morning  of 
the  30th,  so  that  I  took  occasion  to  make  other 
intermediate  experiences;  and  one  was  to  taste  the 
Mangostine,  a  fruit  concerning  which  I  was  very 
curious,  and  which  I  was  delighted  to  find  was  in 
full  season.  I  never  could  get  anyone  to  describe  it 
to  me,  so  I  shall  nowxiescribe  it  to  you.  It  grows  in 
clusters  on  its  short  branches,  of  which  I  eventually 
bought  in  plentiful  quantities,  hanging  them  up  in 
my  bedroom.  The  fruit  is  of  about  the  size  of  a 
small  orange,  the  outer  thick  rind  being  of  a  very 
dark  crimson,  quite  inedible,  and  quite  separate  from 
the  very  deiicate  fruit  inside.  This  fruit  lies  perfectly 
white  in  a  hollow,  in  concentric  pieces,  like  what  we 
call  the  pigs  of  an  orange.  You  pick  out  each  of  the 
pieces  separately,  which  are  sometimes  with  and 
sometimes  without  a  stone.  They  are  almost  entirely 
liquid  and  crush  into  nothing  in  the  mouth  ;  and  if  I 
am  asked  the  flavour,  I  scarcely  know  how  to  describe 
it.  The  prevailing  feature  is  great  delicacy,  and  it 
is  a  compounded  delicacy.  It  is  delicately  sweet, 
delicately  acid,  delicately  aromatic,  and  has  delicately 
something  of  its  own,  perhaps  produced  by  the  above 
combination.  On  cutting  the  dark  purple  rough 
outside,  the  white  centre  presents  a  curious  contrast, 
almost  recalling  the  contrast  of  Beauty  and  the  Beast. 
The  gross  opposite  to  this  fruit  is  the  Dorian,  which 
I  smelt,  but  tasted  not.  I  did  not  indeed  get  a  fair 
opportunity  of  doing  so,  and  therefore  must  escape  a 
charge  of  cowardice  on  that  plea. 


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238  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

I  availed  myself  of  my  two  days  to  make  an 
excursion  by  train  to  Buitenzorpr,  and  on  the 
following  day  continued  to  Soekaboemie  and  re- 
turned. This  took  me  among  the  wooded  mountains, 
but  as  the  weather  was  cloudy — it  being  now  the  wet 
season — I  did  not  see  so  much  as  on  a  second  excur- 
sion later  on.  I  saw  enough,  however,  to  prove  to  me 
that  the  Javan  scenery  can  show  what  the  Vale  of 
Kashmir  cannot — the  beautiful  effect  of  the  long 
mountain  slopes  combining  with  the  valleys.  This 
characteristic  I  observed  throughout. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  I  started  for  Tanjong 
Preok,  and  went  on  board  the  Pambora  for  Samarang, 
and  suffered  the  ordeal  of  bad  weather  along  a  coast, 
and  Dutch  Colonial  food  into  the  bargain.  Lots, 
but  coarse.  We  thought  ourselves  advanced  by  not 
being  able  to  touch  at  the  intermediate  ports,  seeing 
that  we  therefore  arrived  in  shorter  time ;  but  we 
paid  for  this  on  coming  back,  pains  following  pleasures, 
as  usual.  Moreover,  when  we  got  to  Samarang, 
"  The  Blue  Flag ''  was  flying,  which  meant  we  must 
lie  to  outside,  and  could  not  have  the  steam  launch 
to  land  us.  On  the  second  day,  however,  the  2nd  of 
February,  wc  were  relieved,  and  I  went  to  the 
Pavilion  Hotel.  Here  I  lunched,  and  immediately 
took  the  train  for  Ambarawa  or  Willem  I,  arriving 
at  6  p.m.  Here  it  was  necessary  to  hire  a  carriage 
for  my  course,  but  alas !  the  only  word  I  could  get 
understood  was  Boro  Buddor;  and  even  this  was 
spelt  in  some  other  manner,  which  I  shall,  however, 
accept  as  the  inevitable.  At  last,  when  despair  was 
at  its  depth,  there  appeared  a  young  Dutch  officer. 


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BORO  BUDDOR.  239 

who  had  just  one  or  two  more  words  in  Engh'sh  than 
I  had  in  whatever  it  was  they  talked  at  the  hotel, 
and  a  carriage  was  ordered  to  be  at  the  door  at  six 
in  the  morning. 

And  punctually  it  came — a  carriage  and  four ;  and 
punctually  at  6.30,  after  breakfast,  we  started.  The 
road  was  extremely  hilly  ;  indeed,  mountainous :  we 
were  at  one  time,  by  my  aneroid,  2000  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  driving  was  excellent,  and  when  we  had 
to  walk  we  hired  bullocks,  sometimes  joining  them 
on,  and  sometimes  taking  out  the  horses  and  putting 
in  the  bullocks  instead.  Intercourse,  when  needed, 
was  carried  on  by  pantomime.  At  last,  about  half- 
past  one,  we  arrived  at  Magelang,  and  stopped  at 
Mr.  Unglaub's  German  hotel.  Here  I  gave  tongue, 
and  after  a  consultation  with  the  host,  decided  to 
take  carriage  and  horses  for  (let  us  see)  Djocjacarta, 
sleeping  at  Boro  Buddor,  which  was  not  far  off. 
This  time  it  was  to  be  a  carriage  and  six,  and  I 
was  to  get  to  "  Djoc  "  (that  will  do)  by  early  afternoon 
on  the  next  day. 

I  therefore  left  the  hotel— most  picturesquely  situ- 
ated, fronting  on  a  large,  green,  well-timbered  space 
— immediately  after  luncheon,  again  experiencing  ex- 
cellent driving  and  fine  mountainous  and  cultivated 
country,  until  at  last  there  appeared  among  the  trees 
a  huge,  dark  brown,  massive  structure  of  a  wholly 
novel  form.  This  was  Boro  Buddor,  and  driving  up 
to  it,  and  almost  round  it,  I  was  landed,  shortly  before 
four  o'clock,  at  a  most  convenient  small  hotel,  built 
there  solely  for  the  entertainment  of  travellers  to  the 
spot. 


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240  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

The  dark  massive  Boro  Buddor,  a  terraced  pyra- 
mid, was  now  clear  before  me.  Fergusson  calls  it 
"  a  seven  or  a  nine  storied  Vihfira."  Its  square 
basement,  he  says,  measures  4C0  feet,  but  the  real 
temple  is  only  300  feet  from  angle  to  angle.  The 
form  is  of  a  perfect  square  ;  and  for  a  full  architectural 
description  of  it  recourse  must  be  had  to  his  pages. 
Its  date  he  assigns  to  the  interval  from  A.D.  650 
to  800.  It  has  five  square  independent  procession 
paths,  one  above  another,  pyramidally  diminishing 
in  circuit,  and  connected  with  one  another  by  steps. 
And  on  mounting  these,  you  come  upon  a  large  open 
surface,  still  showing  increasing  open  altitudes,  which 
may  or  may  not  be  called  storeys,  towards  the  very 
centre,  where  the  former  solid  dagoba,  or  dome,  once 
stood,  and  where  a  wooden  scaffold  for  the  general  view 
has  been  now  constructed.  But  the  detail  of  orna- 
ment and  the  variety  of  figures  on  this  great  mass  is 
almost  incredible.  As  I  stood  upon  the  top  scaffold 
I  counted  seventy-two  perforated  small  dagobas, 
each  containing  a  Buddha  :  and  as  both  faces,  right 
and  left,  of  the  procession  paths  are  sculptured, 
Fergusson  counts  that  there  are  nearly  two  English 
miles'  length  of  them  altogether.  Add  to  these 
independent  figures  of  Buddha  in  every  available 
position.  The  whole  building  seems  to  bristle  with 
canopies.  It  may  be  readily  understood  that  all 
these  basii  relitvt  relate  to  the  whole  life,  historical 
and  legendary,  of  Sakya  Muni;  and  even  were  they  in 
a  fairly  readable  condition,  they  might  occupy  an 
erudite  for—  how  long  ?  But  the  stone  is  dark  and 
discoloured  ;  here  and  there  it  has  fallen  out  of  form, 


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BORO  BUDDOR.  24 1 

and  almost  everywhere  a  quantity  of  lichens  of 
various  colours  are  growing  on  the  surfaces.  Even 
to  such  an  one,  therefore,  the  task  of  close  examina- 
tion would  be  prolonged,  while  to  the  ordinary 
traveller  it  must  be  one  of  despair. 

Be  all  this  as  it  may,  it  yet  remains  to  wonder, 
after  all,  how  the  temple  still  stands  as  it  does  to- 
day, mouldering  only  under  the  hand  of  time,  and 
spared  by  that  iconoclastic  barbarism  which  is  so  sorely 
prevalent  between  opposing  faiths ;  for  in  Java  the 
religion  of  Buddhism  has  been  long  since  abandoned 
for  that  of  Islam.  This  sparing  is  explained  by  the 
fact,  as  stated  by  Fergusson,  that  "  when  the  Javans 
were  converted  to  Mahommedanism  it  was  not  in 
anger,  and  they  were  not  urged  to  destroy  what  they 
had  before  reverenced.'^ 

The  position  of  the  Temple  is  romantic  :  it  was  no 
doubt  artistically  chosen.  Mountainous  country 
extends  on  all  sides :  immediately  on  the  left  are 
serrated  ridges,  and  below,  mixed  with  meadows, 
there  are  extensive  handsome  forests.  I  lingered  on 
the  top  till  after  sunset,  and  watched  large  flights  of 
white  birds  winging  home  to  roost  for  the  night,  amidst 
a  certain  large  group  of  trees.  Then,  by-and-by,  a 
few  more  belated  ones  followed,  and  by-and-by 
again  some  single  stragglers,  one  by  one;  but  all 
came  in  at  last,  and  all  to  the  same  wooded  resting 
place.  And  then  I  also  left  the  now  neglected  fane 
with  its  abandoned  faith  to  darkness,  and,  like  the 
white  birds,  came  down  to  roost,  myself. 

In  the  morning  I  was  on  the  top  again  for  sunrise, 
and  for  a  long  survey  of  all  the  marvellous  detail — all 

R 


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242  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

to  fall  to  pieces  by  degrees.  My  carriage  and  six 
was  quite  ready  in  good  time,  and  I  came  as  far  as 
•'  Djoc  "  visiting  the  Temple  of  Mendoet  on  my  way; 
small  but  remarkable  for  its  three  colossal  figures 
and  its  refinement  of  execution.  This,  if  I  remember 
rightly,  stands  in  the  very  midst  of  a  wood.  At 
"  Djoc  "  I  found  the  hotel  full,  and  came  thence,  by 
rail,  to  Solo,  and  thence  next  day  to  Samarang, 
in  expectation  of  the  steamer  from  Tanjong  Preok. 
Here,  however,  there  was  delay  arising  out  of  some 
confusion  as  to  steamers,  and  I  had  to  pass  a  dull 
whole  day  at  Samarang,  adding  but  one  new  fact 
to  my  gatherings,  namely,  that  those  same  Java 
sparrows,  slate  coloured  with  white  cheeks,  for  which 
some  fifty  years  ago  we  paid  ten  shillings  per  pair, 
are  in  their  own  country  as  common  and  as  mis- 
chievous as  our  own  house  sparrow  in  England. 
*•  What  on  earth  are  all  that  host  of  small  chattering 
birds  just  come  in  to  roost?"  **They  are  the  Rice 
Thieves."  I  passed  a  good  deal  of  rice,  by  the  way, 
after  leaving  Boro  Buddor,  but  in  several  cases  it 
was  being  cultivated  on  the  hill  sides  in  terraces. 
There  was  great  fertility  throughout 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  February  I  got  on 
board  a  British  India  Company's  steamer  for  Batavia, 
and  having  to  stop  extra  time  at  the  various  ports, 
because  we  had  left  them  out  in  coming,  I  arrived 
only  in  time  to  know  that  I  had  lost  my  return 
steamer  to  Singapore  ;  and  I  landed  only  to  return 
to  Weltevreden.  Availing  myself  of  the  interval 
before  the  next  boat  started  I  made  another  journey 
to  Buitenzorg,  going  this  time  to  the  Hdtel  Belle 


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/AVA.  243 

Vue  and  securing  a  room  with  a  full  view  of  Mount 
Salak  and  his  glorious  sloping  wooded  sides,  forming 
with  the  valley  below  a  charming  picture.  To  this 
scene  was  superadded  the  colouring  of  a  supremely 
fine  sunset.  Returning  in  the  morning,  both  Salak 
and  Ged^  were  clear  :  the  former  rises  8000  feet  and 
the  latter  10,000  feet.  But  Salak  is  the  finer  of  the 
two,  as  Kanchinjunga  is  finer  than  Gaurisankar. 
From  Thursday  the  13th  to  Sunday  the  i6th  I  was 
on  board  the  Javara^  Captain  Pot,  landing,  on  the 
latter  day,  once  more  at  undelightful  Singapore,  with 
its  undelightful  Hotel  de  TEurope. 


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XXV. 

My  next  object  being  Bangkok  in  Siam,  whither 
I  was  tempted  by  Fergusson's  volume,  I  was  obliged 
to  wait  for  the  steamer  till  Sunday,  the  23rd.  I  had 
also  to  make  up  my  mind  to  visit  the  astonishing 
Cambodian  Temple  Nakhon  Watt,  and  the  ruins  of 
the  vast  city  Nakhon  Thom,  which,  geographically 
speaking,  I  ought  to  have  managed  on  my  way  to 
Hongkong  from  Bangkok,  and  of  which  Mr. 
Watters  of  the  Glasgow  Herald  had  given  me  full 
information  in  my  passage  from  Calcutta  to  Madras. 
But  having  communicated  with  Saigon  upon  the 
subject,  I  was  informed  by  the  agent  of  the  Steam- 
ship Company  that  I  was  too  late  for  this  year,  the 
river  Mccon  being  now  too  low;  so  that  this  visit  was 
for  the  present  hopeless.  They  were  kind  enough  to 
admit  me  to  the  club  for  a  few  days,  which  relieved 
me  in  my  uneasy  stay ;  and,  moreover,  we  had  at  our 
table  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Siegfried,  fellow-passengers  from 
Batavia  whom  I  afterwards  met  at  San  Francisco ; 
and  Mr.  Wright,  also  a  fellow-passenger,  representing 
Messrs.  Siemans.  With  this  latter  gentleman  I 
visited  the  botanical  gardens,  of  which  one  is  bound 
to  speak  highly.  These  gardens  are  remarkably  well 
kept,  and  very  pretty  in  themselves  ;  and  there  are 
some  really  fine  fern  and  orchid  houses.  When, 
however,  the  day  for  leaving  came,  I  was  not  sorry  to 


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S/AAf.  241 

say  good-bye  to  Singapore,  and  particularly  to  the 
Hdtel  de  TEurope. 

On  Sunday,  the  23rd  of  February,  I  left  for 
Bangkok  in  the  Ocean  Steam  Navigation  Company's 
ship  Hydra,  Captain  White,  with  three  other 
passengers  :  one  was  the  well-known  American  Mis- 
sionary of  Amoy,  Dr.  Ashmore,  whom  I  met  more 
than  once  afterwards  in  his  busy  peregrinations ;  M. 
Pina  de  St.  Didier,  of  the  French  Consulate  at 
Bangkok,  transferred  from  Mandalay,  of  which  we 
had  some  talk  ;  and  in  particular,  two  young  Germans, 
who  were  afterwards  my  companions  to  the  ancient 
capital  of  Ayutia,  Alexander  von  Roessing  and  his 
brother  Lieut.  Freiherr  von  Roessing.  There  was 
nothing  of  maritime  note  in  our  passage  except  that 
we  rolled  rather  more  than  seemed  quite  justified  by 
the  sea ;  these  steamers,  however,  are  built  rather 
flat-bottomed  because  of  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Me  Nam. 

But  one  fact,  trivial  at  first  sight,  though  to  a  certain 
extent  of  natural  import,  attracted  my  attention, 
namely,  that  scores,  or  rather  hundreds  of  hard,  round, 
white  cabbages  were  suddenly  spread  out  on  the  fore- 
deck  by  a  group  of  Chinese.  Captain  White  and 
Dr.  Ashmore  were  both  much  amused  at  my  notice 
of  such  a  circumstance,  but  showed  me  how  these 
cabbages  illustrated  the  astonishing  trading  character 
of  the  Chinese.  No  cabbages  grow  at  Bangkok,  and 
these  had  actually  been  brought  all  the  way  from 
Swatow  to  Singapore,  and  were  now  going  thence  to 
Bangkok,  thus  covering  a  distance  of  about  2500 
miles  at  sea.     And   all   this   for  a   mere   cargo   of 


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246  WAXDERIXOS   AXD    IV'OXDERIXGS. 

cabbages  and  for  the  profit  of  but  a  few  pieces  of 
silver ! 

On  the  26th  we  came  in  sight  of  the  lighthouse 
built  out  on  the  shallow  waters,  and  here  we  anchored 
at  eight  in  the  evening.  At  six  on  the  following 
morning  we  started  up  the  river,  wide,  winding,  and 
lying  between  two  quite  flat  shores  ;  but  these  were 
thickly  dressed  with  trees,  and  in  that  respect  the 
Me  Nam  is  more  agreeable  than  the  Jhelum.  Green 
thick  shrubs  and  palm  abounded  on  both  sides. 
Presently  we  came  to  huts  and  houses  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  water,  some  being  built  even  on  piles  and 
standing  over  the  water  ;  and  these  increased  in 
number  till  we  came  to  the  very  bright  and  busy 
scene  of  our  anchorage  at  the  beginning  of  Bangkok. 
Here  we  were  **  visited,"  and  afterwards  a  missionary 
who  had  come  to  meet  Dr.  Ash  more  very  kindly 
took  me  and  the  two  young  Germans  in  his  steam 
launch  to  the  Oriental  Hotel — this  lay  some  twenty 
minutes  away — and  we  landed  on  its  river  frontage, 
in  bright  sunshine,  of  course,  with  life  and  boats  and 
trees  and  buildings  all  about  us. 

At  Darjeeling  I  had  made  the  acquaintance  of 
our  Minister  Plenipotentiary  and  Consul  General 
at  Bangkok,  Captain  Jones;  and  to  him  I  had 
telegraphed  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  He  was, 
therefore,  expecting  me,  and  I  forthwith  took  a 
beat,  the  shortest  mode,  to  his  large  and  stately 
house,  with  its  garden  in  front  abutting  on  the  river. 
I  had  come  only  to  lunch,  for,  as  he  had  warned  me 
in  his  letter,  he  had  as  yet  scarcely  an  extra  chair  in 
his  large  rooms.     But  how  cool  and  lofty  these  were. 


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SIAM.  247 

and  how  often  I  enjoyed  a  few  hours  of  day  repose 
in  them.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  he  took 
me  a  drive  through  the  city,  and  the  first  structure 
we  visited  was  Wat  Sekest  by  name,  I  have  no 
particular  note  of  it,  except  the  remark  that  it  is 
ugly  and  rugged.  But  I  here  obtained  from  the  top 
my  first  general  view  of  the  city  and  the  river.  The 
chief  feature  to  remark  in  this  is,  how  thoroughly  it 
is  hidden  in  the  crowds  of  trees  ;  and  the  next,  how 
many  small  canals  there  are.  Perhaps  it  was  this 
last  feature  that  led  the  early  Portuguese  and  Dutch 
travellers  (as  Fergusson  tells  us)  to  call  Ayutia  (the 
ancient  capital,  about  fifty  miles  up  the  river  which  I 
afterwards  visited)  the  "  Venice  of  the  East." 

The  next  scene — indeed  scenes — that  we  visited 
were  scenes  of  cremation.  There  appeared  to  be  a 
certain  district  of  the  city  devoted  to  these  operations. 
And  assuredly  had  cremation  been  hitherto  practised 
in  England  as  I  saw  it  practised  here,  the  aversion , 
indeed  horror,  with  which  many  of  our  innocent 
brethren  have  brought  themselves  to  view  it  might 
not  only  be  pardoned,  but  applauded.  In  principle, 
this  system  involves  the  question  between  the  living 
and  the  dead.  Which  is  to  inherit  the  land  }  Mr. 
Gladstone,  in  an  interesting  literary  article  on  libraries 
in  the  Nineteenth  Century^  humorously  hinted  at 
our  books  pushing  us  into  the  sea,  and  the  daily  list 
of  publications  might  really  almost  make  the  timid 
tremble.  But  what  will  our  corpses  some  day  do  for 
us  ?  Strangely  enough,  religion  is  lugged  into  the 
discussion,  and  the  chief  prejudice  against  the  pro- 
cess  appears  to   be  ecclesiastical.     On  this  point  I 


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248  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

remember  reading  in  the  Times  newspaper,  some 
time  ago,  a  synopsis  of  a  sermon  preached  against 
cremation  (I  think  at  St.  Paul's  Cathedral)  by  the 
late  Canon  Liddon,  in  which  that  highly  gifted  man 
wound  up  with  this  most  strange  anti  climax  : — 
"  Finally,  my  brethren,  what  if  our  Blessed  Lord's 
body  had  been  burned  ?  *'  The  mere  shutting  up  of 
church-yards  points  but  to  one  conclusion  in  the 
longer  or  shorter  future  of  the  question.  For  the 
cemetery  is  only  a  new  invasion. 

Well,  what  do  they  do  with  their  dead  at 
Bangkok  ?  Burn  them — really  they  do  not.  Look 
at  this  ceremony  close  in  front  of  you,  now  going 
forward.  We  have  already  talked  together  about  the 
Towers  of  Silence  at  Bombay.  There  the  vultures 
are  at  all  events  left  to  do  their  ugly  Jezebel  work  in 
solitude.  But  here  they  come  boldly  down  among 
the  people,  and  demand  admission  among  the  dogs 
as  equal  guests.  Your  pyre  is  on  the  ground  ;  it  is 
clumsily  put  together,  and  it  is  clumsily  fired  ;  but 
fired  enough  to  cause  a  sort  of  underdone  roasting. 
In  eoes  a  dog  and  tears  out  a  morsel ;  but  it  is  hot 
enough  to  burn  his  mouth  ;  he  shakes  his  head  and 
shakes  it  out  of  his  mouth  accordingly;  growls  at  it, 
lets  it  cool,  and  devours  it,  and  then  repeats  the  trick. 
So  other  dogs,  and  so  the  vultures,  too,  except  the 
growling.  That  last  bird  was  too  audacious  rather, 
and  resents  the  scorch  with  an  indignant  screech. 
And  so  things  go  on,  and  all  as  a  matter  of  course. 
Bad  enough,  you  will  say ;  but  what  if  common  burial 
went  on  with  corresponding  hideous  imperfection  ? 
And  so  we  leave  Bangkok  cremation.     That  all  their 


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SI  AM.  249 

so-called  holocausts  so  take  place  it  would  be  ex- 
aggeration to  assert.  But  these  are  of  everyday. 
Que  voulez  vous  f 

The  next  day  I  again  lunched  with  Captain  Jones, 
and  again  spent  the  afternoon  with  him  ;  and  rowing 
up  the  river  we  landed  to  see  what,  I  must  confess, 
had  first  attracted  my  attention  to  Bangkok  by  the 
print  of  it  in  Fergusson.  "  The  Great  Tower  of  the 
Pagoda,  Wat  ching."  This  was  indeed  an  object 
wholly  and  entirely  different  from  the  solemn  pile 
that  I  had  so  lately  visited  in  Java.  But  it  was 
highly  interesting  nevertheless.  Referring  to  the 
same  volume,  there  is  what  he  calls  "  The  Hall  of 
Audience,"  but  I  saw  it  as  the  Gateway  to  the  Court 
of  this  Pagoda.  The  structure  as  portrayed  at  p. 
634  must  speak  for  itself.  Even  broken  crockery 
ware  is  arranged  for  blossoms,  and  I  don't  know  that 
I  can  do  better  than  quote  Fergusson  where  he 
writes  that  this  Pagoda  *'  is  covered  with  an  elabora- 
tion of  detail  and  exuberance  of  coloured  ornament 
that  has  seldom  been  surpassed  *'  (has  it  ever  been 
equalled  ?;  **  nor  is  it  desirable  it  should  be,  for  it  is 
here  carried  to  an  extent,  truly  barbarous."  I  con- 
fess to  have  been  exceedingly  interested  in  conning 
this  quite  novel  styleof  architecture,  and  by  mounting 
to  a  certain  height,  not  only  because  I  thus  became 
more  and  more  intimate  with  it,  but  that  I  also  en- 
joyed an  impressive  view  of  the  noble  river  and  the 
city.  On  the  water,  moreover,  large  rafts  of  teak 
were  floating  down  the  stream,  adding  yet  more  life 
to  the  living  picture. 

Lunching    again    with    Captain   Jones,  we   went 


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250  WAXDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

afterwards  with  the  Roessings  in  the  afternoon  to 
Wat  Po,  where  we  saw  a  most  remarkable  com- 
pound of  almost  every  kind  of  pagoda,  including^ 
a  huge  redininqr  Buddha,  which  occupied  the 
whole  length  of  a  large  dark  Temple.  Then  to  the 
Gardens  :  and  then  we  dispersed  till  morning,  when 
we  were  to  make  arrangements  for  our  journey  to 
Ayutia.  This  we  did  with  Mr.  Andersen,  the  pro- 
prietor. We  -were  to  have  a  steam  launch  and 
attendants.  We  arranged  our  lists  of  provisions, 
and  my  servant,  as  cook,  was  of  course  to  go  with 
us. 

Accordingly,  on  Monday,  the  3rd  of  March,  I  was 
called  at  a  quarter  to  four,  and  all  being  ready,  I 
started  on  the  dark  river  amidst  the  small  stars  of  the 
lights  among  the  vessels,  and  stopped  at  "  Mark- 
waldts,"  a  short  distance  up  the  river  for  my  com- 
panions. But  the  premises  being  large  and  the 
buildings  irregular,  I  had  the  misfortune  to  commit 
that  never-forgiven  crime  of  waking  the  wrong  man. 
We  soon  got  away,  however,  with  the  right  two,  and 
the  daylight  broke  rapidly  upon  us.  Sails  and  boats 
were  scattered  everywhere,  in  busy  movement ;  the 
winding  river's  banks  were  everywhere  clothed  with 
trees,  and  the  gable-ended  houses  of  wooden  villages 
opened  to  us  inconstant  succession.  F'ive  hours  and 
a  half  brought  us  to  a  place  called  Bang  Pa-i,  and 
here  the  interesting  features  decreased.  But  here  a 
new  interest  arose,  for  there  was  a  King's  Palace  and 
Garden  of  which  Mr.  Alten,  a  German,  was  the 
resident  guardian,  and  to  whom  my  companions  had 
a  letter.     Here  we  therefore  called,  and  Mr.  Alten 


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S/A.\f.  251 

came  on  with  us  to  Ayutia,  which  lay  just  two  hours 
more  up  stream. 

Constant  temples  and  pagodas  appeared  as  we 
went  along,  picturesque  but  not  important ;  till  at  last 
we  came  to  a  large  old  one.  Here  we  again  found 
a  huge  recumbent  Buddha,  and  (what  was  novel) 
all  the  walls  were  fairly  honeycombed  with  tiny 
recesses,  in  which  were  placed  tiny  Buddhas  :  these 
being  brought,  as  we  were  informed,  from  time  to 
time  by  pilgrims.  Then  we  came  to  the  Old  Royal 
Domain  and  Palace,  which  showed  "splendid  wrecks 
of  former  pride,"  for  Ayutia  ^says  Fergusson)  '*had 
for  three  centuries  been  the  flourishing  capital  of  one 
of  the  great  building  races  of  the  world."  To  the 
top  of  this  old  Palace  we  mounted  to  obtain  a  general 
view  of  the  ancient  city  itself.  It  was  most  strik- 
ing. All  was  now  one  flat  mass  of  thick  growing 
trees,  out  of  which  at  various  intervals  arose  the  tall 
naked  ruins  of  the  ancient  pagodas,  towering  above 
the  trees  in  exactly  the  shapes  given  by  Fergusson's 
engravings.  Never  was  there  a  more  perfect  picture 
of  the  results  of  abandoning  Art  to  Nature  in  a 
fertile  land  !  This,  for  me,  was  the  real  view  of  the 
old  city,  but  my  companions  desired  to  walk  throup;h 
it,  which  they  did.  They  could  tell  me  no  more, 
however,  than  that  they  had  walked  along  paths  and 
gone  from  tower  to  tower,  but  as  the  whole  ground 
was  a  mere  dead  level,  they  had  caught  no  general 
view  at  all.  This  was  to  be  had  only  from  the  Old 
Palace,  and  I  lounged  about  that  abandoned  structure 
and  mounted  to  the  top  again  while  they  were  gone. 
On  their  return  we   dined  under  an  open  canopy, 


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252  WANDERINGS  AXD    WONDERINGS. 

and  steamed  back  to  Mr.  Alten's  where  we  com- 
fortably passed  the  night. 

Before  leaving  after  breakfast  in  the  morning  we 
were  taken  over  the  buildings  and  gardens,  the  usual 
feelings  and  expressions  of  grateful  satisfaction 
following,  and  then  we  embarked  for  Bangkok,  not, 
however,  without  visiting  a  place  of  worship  built  by 
the  King,  which  he  had  fantastically  had  erected  as 
nearly  as  possible  like  a  Christian  church.  The 
whole  day  brought  us  down  to  Bangkok,  the  journey 
occupying  from  10.30  a.m.  till  4.30  p.m.  on  Tuesday, 
the  4th  of  March. 

I  had  yet  to  see  the  King's  Palace  and  Compound, 
or  Private  Domain,  and  I  had  also  now  to  arrange  for 
my  departure  to  Hongkong.  I  had  also  to  obtain 
some  photographs  from  Mr.  Loftus,  the  photographer, 
and  in  doing  this  I  was  offered  the  attendance  of  his 
brother,  who  had  the  license  of  admission  to  all  that 
was  ever  permitted  to  be  seen.  The  opportunity  of 
beholding  his  Majesty  himself  I  missed,  for  he  was 
absent  The  nearest  I  could  come  to  this  was  only 
the  Crown  Prince's  tutor — a  somewhat  remote 
German  cousinship— whom  I  met  on  lunching  again 
with  Captain  Jones,  and  also  the  Netherlands 
Minister,  Mr.  Morant. 

On  Friday,  the  7th,  I  was  to  be  on  board  the 
Mongkuty  Captain  Fowler,  belonging  to  the  Scottish 
Oriental  S.S.  Co.,  so  that  I  had  just  one  entire  day 
to  visit  the  Palace  of  Bangkok,  and  this  I  accordingly 
did  with  Mr.  l^oitwsfrtre,  A  truly  Oriental  mass  of 
gaudy  buildings  and  bewildering  ornament  I  found  ; 
and   if  Fergusson   chooses  to  call    it  all  tawdry  I 


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SI  AM,  253 

suppose  we  must  not  contradict  him.  But  I  do  not 
at  all  feel  inclined  to  depreciate  the  style  after  this 
fashion.  It  is  intensely  novel  and  picturesque ;  look 
at  the  entrance  to  the  old  Palace  ;  and  it  makes  you 
feel  that  you  are  among  new  people.  Moreover,  it 
suits  the  atmosphere,  and  appears  to  be  perfectly  in 
place.  So  much  was  this  the  case  with  me  that  some 
palladian  buildings  which  had  been,  for  convenieace 
sake,  introduced  for  offices  did,  by  tfce  side  of  all  these 
Siamese  kaleidoscopes,  appear  heavy,  cold,  coarse 
and  vulgar.  One  feature  that  astonishes  is  the 
elaboration  of  the  roofs  and  of  the  jutting  eaves. 
Not  only  is  their  unnecessary  extent  vast,  but  curves, 
and  colours,  and  gildings  among  the  tiles  are  studied 
in  every  variety,  and  even  though  a  rigid  Sir 
Christopher  Wren  would  have  called  it  worse  than 
Gothic,  and  a  mere  baby  show,  I  must  confess  to 
have  been  baby  enough  to  enjoy  the  sight.  There  \s 
even  the  Golden  Temple,  with  its  gilded  veitibule 
and  peristyle,  its  interior  a  id,  so  to  speak,  high  altar. 
In  short,  what  is  there  not  of  Siamese  Art  and 
Fashion  ?  If  all  would  not  suit  in  London— and 
certainly  it  would  not — still  it  is  equally  certain  that 
St.  Paul's  would  not  suit  at  Bangkok.  Brain, 
atmosphere,  and  region  work  together  everywhere ; 
and  architecture  is  only  another  tree  or  flower. 
But  talking  of  England,  I  must  not  omit  to  mention 
my  surprise  at  finding  so  much  English  written 
about  the  city.  There  appears  to  be  a  decided 
tendency  in  this  direction,  though  whether  there  is 
any  suggestion  of  education  connected  wiih  it  I 
did   not    learn.     There  was  one  object  among  the 


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2  54  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS, 

rest,  however,  which  none  could  criticize  or  cavil  at. 
It  was  a  huge  model  of  the  Great  Snake  Temple  of 
Nakon  Wat,  round  which  you  could  even  walk  ;  and 
this  considerably  whetted  my  desire  to  visit  that 
spot  on  some  future  opportunity,  which  I  did. 

Full  of  brain  pictures  of  green,  blue,  red, 
yellow,  and  gold,  and  of  sheets  of  gorgeous  tiled 
roofs,  curving  down  into  tremendous  corners  and 
overhanging  eaves,  I  came  for  the  last  time  to  lunch 
with  Captain  Jones.  Nakon  Wat  was  the  subject  of 
our  conversation,  and  I  took  a  last  inspection  of  the 
splendid  illustrations  in  Lieut.  Garnier's  two  volumes, 
lying  on  his  table.  I  had  to  look  to  him  for  an 
introduction  to  the  authorities.  He,  however,  told 
me  that  he  had  already  obtained  for  me  a  letter 
from  the  Foreign  Minister,  Prince  Devawongsc, 
addressed  to  the  Governor  at  Nakon  Wat,  recom- 
mending me  to  his  care,  which  he  had  forwarded  to 
Consul  Tremlett  at  Saigon,  to  await  my  arrival 
whenever  I  got  there.  Moreover,  he  recommended 
me  to  call,  in  his  name,  on  General  Sir  Allen  John- 
son, whom  I  should  find  at  Hongkong,  and  who  had 
actually  gone  across  country  to  Nakon  Wat  from 
Bangkok,  out  of  season. 

.  On  the  afternoon  of  March  the  7th  I  was  on  board 
the  Movgkut  for  Hongkong,  and  found  Captain 
Fowler  with  his  remarkable  black  Chinese  dog,  and 
Dr.  Ashmore  again,  also  on  his  way  thither.  We 
dropped  down  to  the  bar  and  lay  there  all  night. 
Moving  oflf  by  daylight,  and  leaving  a  trail  of 
disturbed  mud  and  sand  behind  us,  we  anchored 
opposite  the  wooded  island,   Kohsichang,  which  is 


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SI  AM,  255 

the  resort  for  change  from  Bangkok.  Here  we 
remained  all  day,  and  were  joined  by  Mr.  Gordon, 
whom  I  afterwards  met  with  at  Shanghai,  connected 
with  the  public  works  at  Siam.  On  the  9th  we 
sailed  again  with  five  days  of  fine  weather.  Then 
came  a  change  to  rough,  with  rain  and  mist  and 
seeming  chillings,  though  my  thermometer  still  stood 
at  78°.  At  night  on  the  15th  we  anchored  in  Hong- 
kong in  smooth  water,  but  entirely  missed  the  pro- 
mised view  on  account  of  both  fog  and  lateness. 

The  morning  of  my  landing,  Sunday,  the  i6th  of 
March,  was  again  dull  and  chilly,  but  Victoria  Har- 
bour looked  all  alive,  and  the  hills  all  round  insisted 
on  showing  in  the  picturesque.  Chinese  junks  lent 
novelty  to  the  general  view,  but  they  were  not  of  the 
large  order,  though  the  ridiculous  painted  eyes  upon 
the  prows  stared  with  wonted  giant  aspect.  Then, 
again,  there  was  the  great  Dragon  Flag,  to  frighten 
all  beholders,  as  should  the  figures  that  guard  the 
pagodas.  It  took  us  about  twenty  minutes  to  row 
from  our  anchorage  to  the  Hongkong  hotel  where  I 
was  very  comfortably  housed  ;  and  shortly  after- 
wards Messrs.  Melchior  et  Cie.,  to  whom  I  had  a 
letter,  were  good  enough  to  enter  my  name  at  the 
Hongkong  Club — a  notable  advantage  indeed. 

The  day  being  dull,  I  was  not  disposed  to  move 
about  much,  and  therefore  immediately  made  my  call 
upon  General  Sir  Allen  Johnson  at  his  hotel ;  for 
my  visit  to  Cambodia  was  one  of  my  leading 
thoughts.  On  introducing  myself,  as  recommended 
by  Captain  Jones,  Sir  Allen  received  me  very 
kindly,  and  iurnished  me  with  abundant  information. 


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2S6  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

I  ncluding  photographs,  all  of  which  was  subsequently 
of  considerable  use  to  me.  How  he  could  have 
undergone  the  overland  passage  from  Bangkok  to 
Battambong  at  all,  and  afterwards  visited  temple 
and  city,  and  then  found  his  way  to  Saigon,  and 
all  out  of  season,  was  a  matter  to  me  of  astonish- 
ment. The  feat  deserves  the  name  of  "General 
Johnson's  March/*^ 

My  next  call  was  on  Messrs.  Butterfield  and 
Swire,  to  whom  also  I  had  a  letter,  and  I  was 
received  by  Mr.  Mackintosh,  who  at  once  put  me  in 
the  way  of  getting  to  Canton,  and  thence  to  the 
Portuguese  settlement  of  Macao,  which  latter  my 
connection  with  the  name  of  Camoens  made  it 
equally  inviting  and  imperative  to  visit;  for  here  the 
poet  had  resided  as  Commissary  of  the  Estates  of 
Deceased  Persons ;  and  here  he  is  recorded  to  have 
completed  his  Lusiads, — probably  the  last  three 
cantos. 

I  was  to  leave  on  Thursday,  the  20th,  at  eight  a.m. 
The  weather  was  now  decidedly  improving  ;  and 
the  beauties  of  Hongkong  were  brightening  to  the 
view.  The  scenery  is  of  course  limited,  because  the 
island,  though  remarkably  picturesque  in  form,  is 
small,  the  whole  circumference  being  given  at  twenty- 
seven  miles.  No  doubt,  to  many  bound  by  occupa- 
tion all  becomes  very  soon  monotonous  ;  and  ledgers 
with  a  good  amount  on  the  right  side  afford  a  more 
generally  entertaining  aspect  than  repeated  rocks 
and  vales  ;  though  these  may  still  be  preferred  to 
too  large  amounts  on  the  left.  While  to  me  all  was 
new,   all   was  no   doubt  pleasing;  and    as   Messrs. 


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HONGKONG.  2^7 

Butterfield  and  Swire's  office  is  on  a  hill,  and  owns 
an  open  balcony,  I  ventured  a  note  of  admiration 
to  Mr.  Mackintosh :  "  What  a  beautiful  view  you  have 
here,  when  you  come  of  a  morning ! "  Perhaps  I 
ought  to  have  anticipated  the  reply:  "Yes,  if  one 
had  not  seen  it  so  very  often." 

I  had  to  come  more  than  once  to  Hongkong — the 
meaning  of  which  is  Good  Harbour — but  was  never 
there  long  enough  at  a  time  for  its  beauties  to  cloy  ; 
yet  I  soon  began  to  find  the  air  in  the  city  itself 
depressing  from  the  close  surrounding  hills  ;  though 
nothing  can  be  cleaner  ^nd  neater  than  the  streets. 
On  Tuesday  1  took  one  of  the  many  long-poled  chairs 
that  threaten  your  viscera  every  time  you  leave  the 
hotel,  and  mounted  to  the  flagstaff,  returning  by  the 
French  convent.  There  is  a  railway  also,  but  I  pre- 
ferred the  chair.  The  view  from  the  top  is  supremely 
fine.  From  a  height  of  1774  ft.  at  the  Victoria  Peak, 
you  look  down  upon  the  splendid  harbour  and  free 
port,  where  the  value  of  the  annual  trade  is  estimated 
at  40,(XX),ocx>/. ;  and  where,  as  usual,  British  tonnage 
immensely  surpasses  all  others.  The  spread  of  water 
is  intensely  blue,  the  effect  of  which  is  greatly 
enhanced  by  the  russet  colour  of  the  mountains  as  a 
contrast,  stretching  the  long  tongues  of  their  bases 
out  into  the  richer  colour.  I  was  fortunate,  more- 
over, in  •  having  a  day  of  fine  weather  mists,  and 
thus  of  enjoying  a  series  of  dissolving  views,  appear- 
ing and  disappearing  as  these  gauzy  veils  from 
time  to  time  passed  over  the  scene  to  intercept  and 
permit  by  turns  the  sunshine  of  a  brilliant  sky  on 
all  that  lay  extended  far  below. 

S 


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258  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDEJRINGS. 

A  highly  successful  and  interesting  passage  took 
me  to  Canton,  on  the  Thursday  morning,  the  scenery 
being  all  more  or  less  mountainous,  and  the  Tiger 
Rocks  very  striking.  Of  what  I  was  to  see  at  Canton 
I  had  formed  no  clear  idea  ;  and  now  that  I  have 
seen  it  I  am  by  no  means  sure  of  conveying  any- 
clear  idea  about  it.  The  first  feature  that  struck  me 
from  on  board,  on  arriving,  was  the  vast  number  of 
crowding  boats,  or  sampans,  upon  the  waters,  and  it 
seemed  almost  incredible  when  I  was  told  that  the 
population  who  live  upon  these  boats  is  numbered 
at  something  like  a  quarter  of  a  million.  I  at  once 
boated  to  Shameen,  where  all  the  Europeans  live, 
and  called  on  Mr.  Detmering,  to  whom  I  brought  a 
letter  from  Messrs.  Melchior  et  Cie.  He  advised  me 
to  take  up  my  abode  across  the  river  (the  Chao,  or 
Choo,  Kiang;  or  Pearl  River),  in  the  small  Oriental 
Hotel  at  Honan  ;  and  there  to  rest  for  the  night,  and 
start  for  the  city  with  a  guide  in  the  morning.  This 
I  accordingly  did,  amusing  myself  by  a  visit  to  the 
Honan  Temple,  which  is  quite  devoid  of  any  archi- 
tectural attraction  ;  but  it  displayed  at  the  moment 
of  my  visit  a  solemn  religious  Buddhist  ceremony, 
wherein  the  procession  of  priests  reminded  me  exactly 
of  the  Roman  Church.  Vestment,  ceremony,  and 
dignity  predominated. 

From  Canton  I  was  to  go  to  Macao,  and  return 
thence  to  Hongkong.  My  luggage  was  therefore 
dispatched  at  once  to  the  Macao  boat,  and  at 
ten  a.m.  on  Friday,  the  21st,  I  came  across  with  my 
guide  to  Canton.  The  crowd  of  residential  boats 
again  attracted  my  attention.     They  extend  for  some 


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CANTON.  259 

four  or  five  miles  in  front  of  the  city  ;  they  are  of  all 
sizes,  hooded  of  course,  and  even  in  the  small  craft 
are  occupied  by  whole  families  ;  these  include  geese, 
cooped  and  uncooped,  and  coops  of  ducks  and 
chickens.  Somewhat  apart  are  handsomer  craft, 
occupied  by  the  more  wealthy,  and  devoted  to 
more  wealthy  and  less  public  purposes. 

We  each  got  into  our  lifted  chair,  and  were 
paraded  through  the  city.  One  word  immediately 
springs  to  my  lips.  Canton  is  a  glorious  kaleido- 
scope. There  are  no  streets,  they  are  all  broad  flat 
paved  passages  ;  all  are  crowded  with  variegated 
Chinese  walking  to  and  fro,  and  very  busy  about 
something  or  about  nothing  ;  the  shops  are  open  on 
both  sides ;  some  gorgeous,  and  all  well  ornamented, 
and  every  trade  and  calling  makes  appearance. 
Among  the  number,  mark  the  butcher  with  heaps 
of  pork  roastings,  and  a  few  black  dogs  into  the 
bargain.  Among  other  glitterings,  one  most  re- 
markable, and  indeed  I  might  almost  say  gorgeous, 
effect  is  produced  by  the  peculiar  mode  of  hanging 
out  signs  :  a  custom  pursued  by  every  one.  My 
guide  began  by  leading  the  way  in  his  chair,  but  I 
shortly  altered  this  in  order  to  enjoy  the  perspective. 
Large  polished  black  long  parallelogram  boards  are 
hung  out  vertically  ;  and  in  large  Chinese  character, 
which  is  very  handsome,  the  name  and  the  trade  are 
emblazoned  on  each  in  very  marked,  broad,  golden 
characters.  So  that,  what  with  the  open  shops  and 
the  rich  gold  lettering  of  the  sign  boards,  and  the 
moving  crowd,  in  variegated  robes,  the  effect  is 
dazzling.     As  you  are  being  carried  along  on  high, 

S  2 


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260  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

the  views,  as  may  be  imagined,  which  you  thus 
command  are  extensive ;  and  in  various  parts  an 
open  wicker  work  is  arranged  above  to  protect  the 
more  exposed  passages  from  the  sun. 

This  is  really  the  sight  of  Canton  for  the  passing 
stranger,  and  I  should  suppose  a  more  striking  one 
he  would  not  note  in  China. 

But  spots  and  buildings  are  to  be  visited,  the  most 
singular  of  which  I  found  to  be  the  Temple  of  the 
500  Genii.  All  these  figures,  sitting  down,  are 
gilded  from  top  to  toe,  and  all  are  posing  with  their 
hands,  and  among  all  the  500  I  could  not  find  two 
posing  alike. .  Where  one  or  two  were  intended  for 
the  Great  they  were  represented  as  very  stout  and 
corpulent.  The  Chinese  God  of  War — Kuanti — is 
always  represented  as  corpulent.  That  is  their  idea 
of  strength,  and  certainly  some  people  should  be 
strong  enough  to  carry  about  with  them  what  they 
are  possessed  of  in  this  respect.  All  keep  looking  at 
you  more  or  less  pleasantly,  none  angrily,  so  that 
when  you  come  out  you  feel  to  have  left  a  pleasant 
crowd  behind  you. 

But  if  this  be  a  pleasant  visit,  what  shall  be  said  of 
its  contrast  in  the  Temple  of  Horrors  ?  It  may  be 
called  the  Hell  of  the  Wicked,  over  illustrated.  Then 
there  is  the  Examination  Hall,  where  there  is  not 
much  for  examination,  as  you  are  not  a  student ;  the 
silk  weavers  ;  the  Courts  of  Justice ;  and,  lastly,  a  long 
walk  to  the  Five  Storey  Pagoda,  which  I  held  to  be 
the  last  and  the  least.  It  is  far  from  impressive  in 
itself,  and  the  view  from  it  of  Canton  is  disappoint- 
ing.    Through  Canton  once  again,  rather  for  a  visit 


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MACAO.  261 

than  for  a  dwelling ;  and  then  to  our  boats.  This  time 
we  were  met  by  golden  marriage  processions,  carry- 
ing all  things  in  golden  glitter,  and  at  last,  through 
the  sampans  again,  I  came  to  the  Macao  steamer. 

There  was,  after  all,  very  little  that  I  found  closely 
associated  with  Camoens  at  Macao.  Grotto  there 
was  absolutely  none  ;  nor  is  it  easy  to  trace  where 
there  ever  was  one.  The  garden  you  are  shown  into 
is  a  very  pretty  undulating  piece  of  ground,  and  is 
rather  heavily  timbered  ;  and  in  a  picturesque  part  of 
this  there  are  some  rocks,  in  the  midst  of  which  there 
is  planted  a  small  bust  of  the  poet,  with  certain  ex- 
tracts from  the  Lusiads,  engraved  on  stone.  These, 
however,  are  scarcely  legible,  partly  from  the  decay 
of  the  material  and  partly  from  the  growth  of  lichens 
on  the  surface.  Nor  does  the  state  of  the  case  rest 
here.  More  than  one  admirer,  or  desirous  of  being 
so  called,  has  taken  occasion,  for  his  own  sake,  to 
hitch  his  name  on  to  that  of  Camoens  by  writing 
unneeded  eulogies  on  him,  and,  in  particular,  one 
Frenchman  has  mutilated  a  large  face  of  one  of  the 
rocks  by  inserting  a  huge  black  stone  tablet  with  a 
huge  number  of  stanzas.  I  could  conjure  up  no 
associations  with  the  poet,  nor  gather  any  inspiration 
from  the  scene.  On  the  following  day  I  was  again  at 
Hongkong. 


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XXVI. 

I  was  now  to  make  arrangements  for  getting 
to  Shanghai,  which  was  to  be  my  starting-point 
for  Japan  ;  and  I  again  availed  myself  of  one  of 
Messrs.  Butterfield  and  Swire's  boats  for  the  passage. 
This  I  did  by  sailing  in  the  AncAises,  Captain  Lapage 
— known  as  Captain  Lappidge — and  went  on  board 
on  a  cold,  foggy,  windy  morning,  it  being  Wednes- 
day, the  26th  of  March.  On  this  passage  we  touched 
at  Amoy,  and  took  in  Mr.  Marshall,  Inspector  of 
Consulate  Buildings,  and  whom  I  afterwards  met  at 
Shanghai.  This  entrance  to  Amoy  is  very  fine,  the 
rocks  are  remarkable  and  the  water  spacious,  offering 
a  secure  and  commodious  harbour.  This  is  the  port 
for  Formosa,  which  I  held  in  prospect  for  a  visit,  if 
only  to  gratify  an  old  schoolboy's  curiosity,  but  it  was 
not  to  be  now,  if  ever.  We  started  again  the  same 
evening  and  came  into  yellow  water,  which  marked 
Woosang  at  the  entrance  of  the  Wangpoo,  on  which 
river  Shanghai  lies,  and  there  we  anchored  for  the 
night. 

The  extensive  fortifications  at  Woosang  not 
threatening  to  blow  us  out  of  the  water  if  we 
attempted  to  steer  up  the  Wongpoo  with  audacious 
intent  of  landing  at  Shanghai,  we  ventured  on  that 
proceeding,  and  assaulted  the  Shanghai  quay  at  the 
auspicious  hour  of  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  with- 


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SHANGHAI.  263 

out  however  having  spread  any  insane  alarm  in  con- 
sequence ;  and  after  quietly  breakfasting  with  the 
captain  on  bo^rd,  I  quietly  came  on  shore  and  put 
myself  under  the  paternal  and  maternal  protection  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jansen,  at  the  Astor  House  Hotel.  The 
town  was  in  perfect  repose,  and  indeed  everything 
was  shut,  for  it  was  Palm  Sunday. 

On  Monday,  however,  the  vulgar  world's  every-day 
work  began  again,  and  temporal  thoughts  superseded 
eternal,  and  then  it  was  that  on  going  to  my  bankers* 
for  money,  I  found  I  had  to  make  out  the  receipt  in 
taels,  which  is  not  a  coin  but  a  fanciful  weight,  and 
this  weight  continued  to  press  upon  me  when  I  went 
to  take  my  cabin  to  Kobe,  for  the  measurement  by 
the  aristocratic  taels  knocks  the  poor  dollar  into 
second-class  value,  and  enables  companies,  dentists, 
and  other  professionalists  to  charge  by  the  higher  de- 
nomination. Of  this,  however,  Mr.  Bois,  of  Butterfield 
and  Swire's  house — here  they  are  everywhere — had 
forewarned  me,  so  that  I  paid  without  a  groan,  or  at 
allevents,  without  letting  one  be  heard. 

At  Shanghai,  on  this  my  first  visit,  I  passed  only 
two  days,  but  returned  more  than  once  again.  Al- 
ready, however,  it  was  easy  to  see  that  in  its  grand 
European  aspect  it  is  a  fine-looking  city,  with  grand 
dwellings.  Carriages  are  plentiful,  and  so  are  jin- 
rikishas.  But  these  have  not  yet  obliterated  the  old- 
fashioned  wheelbarrow,  though  they  have  relegated 
it  to  the  use  of  the  lower  classes.  It  is  exactly  a 
wheelbarrow  in  the  mode  of  locomotion,  but  the  body 
is  like  that  of  an  Irish  car.  A  division  stands  in  the 
middle ;  the  man  sits  on  one  side,  and  his  baggage 


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264  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS.. 

— in  the  shape  of  his  wife  or  otherwise — is  on  the 
other.  And  when  the  cargo  is  very  heavy,  a  man 
pulls  in  front  to  help  the  pusher  behind,  with  his  two 
lifted  handles.  The  jinrikisha  is  also  ubiquitous  ;  and 
is  at  first  very  likely  to  give  you  a  cold,  or  the  ear-ache. 
On  Wednesday,  the  2nd  of  April,  I  went  with  my 
servant  on  board  the  Yang-tse^  Captain  Lormier, 
and  was  now  at  last  bound  for  Japan^  which  I  had 
begun  to  think  it  was  a  shame  to  have  not  yet  seen  ; 
for  I  had  been  provoked  to  go  there  so  long  ago  as 
1873,  and  even  then  had  been  warned  that  the  coun- 
try had  been  already  spoiled  some  years  before.  This 
was  the  warning  and  information  given  me  by  the 
Rev.  Dr.  Smythe,  whom  in  that  year  I  met  at  Buenos 
Ayres.  He  had  been  practising  as  a  physician  in 
Japan,  and  had  since  then  entered  the  Church,  and. 
was  resident,  at  the  time  I  speak  of,  in  the  Argentine 
Republic.  It  does  not,  however,  happen  to  us  very 
frequently  that  we  can  choose  exactly  what  we  shall 
do  and  where  we  shall  go.  In  travelling  I  have  proved 
this — that  if  you  will  not  go  to  one  place  merely  be- 
cause you  have  not  yet  been  to  some  other,  it  very 
often  happens  that  you  will  go  to  neither.  I  know, 
for  example,  for  myself,  that  it  happened  to  me  to 
'  drive  into  Rome  with  a  friend  behind  four  horses, 
an4  even  to  see  the  glorious  Bay  of  Rio,  long  before 
I  could  get  circumstances  to  allow  me  to  see  Holland. 
And  I  know,  moreover,  that  when  I  did  go  there  by 
rather  .a  forced  arrangement,  I  met  with  an  unex- 
pectedly early  winter,  and  spent  my  time  in  suffering 
sciatica  and  lumbago,  and  drinking  cura9ao  at  every 
station  I  came  to.  The  Fates  said  "Yes";  the 
Furies  "  No." 


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JAPAN.  '  265 

I  never  found  a  fair  and  natural  chance  of  getting 
to  Japan  till  this  last  date  I  speak  of,  and  I  confess 
myself  now  to  have  been  perfectly  satisfied  with 
what  I  saw,  notwithstanding  all  the  spoiling.  I 
saw  much  more  by  means  of  the  intrusion  of  Europe 
than  I  should  otherwise  have  done;  I  saw  plenty 
that  had  been  unaltered  by  Europe  ;  and  after  having 
seen  all  that  was  Japanese  for  entertainment  and  in- 
struction, I  was  quite  content  to  fall  back  into  what 
was  European  for  the  enjoyment  of  reflection  and 
repose. 

The  French  steamer,  the  Yang-tse^  was  advertised 
to  go  through  the  Inland  Sea,  and  that  was  the  first 
object  to  be  enjoyed.  The  weather,  it  is  true,  was 
very  dull,  but,  independently  of  this  drawback,  I  must 
profess  myself  to  have  been  quite  disappointed  in 
this  one  particular  passage.  There  were  on  board  two 
ladies,  Mrs.  Watkin  Wingfield  and  Miss  Smith, 
who  had  been  staying  with  their  relatives,  Sir  John 
and  Lady  Walsham,  at  Peking  (which  city  I  do 
not  ruthlessly  rob  of  its  legitimate  and  essential  G), 
and  I  am  quite  sur^  they  would  say,  and  indeed  they 
did  say,  the  same  ;  nor  had  they,  as  I  afterwards  had, 
the  chance  of  amending  this  first  impression.  The 
truth  is  that  the  going  through  the  Inland  Sea  is  a 
mere  matter  of  course,  for  Kobe,  or  Kiogo,  has  to  be 
touched,  and  that  lies  on  this  sea ;  but  the  mere 
phrase  itself  does  not  mean  seeing  that  sea.  From 
Kobe  runs  the  passage  to  Yokohama,  and  that  is  the 
business  of  the  French  Messageries  and  of  the  Eng- 
lish P.  &  O.  But  these  companies  take  the  shortest 
cut  and  go  through  the  Inland  Sea  by  .day   or   by 


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266  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

night,  just  as  despatch  requires.  The  consequence 
of  this  was  that  on  this  occasion  we  saw  only  the 
entrance,  the  beauties  of  which  were  very  soon 
steamed  through.  Later  on,  I  found  other  means  of 
reah'zing  the*  real  charms  of  this  exquisite  piece  of 
water.  Be  it  noted,  moreover,  that  the  French 
steamers  do  not  even  touch  at  Nagasaki,  though  the 
P.  &  O.  do. 

We  landed  at  Kobe  early  in  the  morning  of  Satur- 
day, the  5th  of  April,  and  went  at  once  into  Euro- 
pean quarters  at  the  Oriental  Hotel,  a  French  house 
which  I  would  recommend  ;  and  the  wet,  cold  weather 
found  me  quite  content  to  remain  under  its  European 
protection. 

The  next  day  was  fine,  and  I  went  as  far  as  Osaka 
with  the  ladies,  who  continued  on  their  way  by  train 
to  Tokio.  My  object  in  a  special  journey  to  Osaka 
and  back  was  to  see  some  specimens  of  the  Japanese 
cherry  blossoms.  These  I  found  very  striking  of  their 
kind.  They  come  out  before  the  leaves,  and  they 
grow  thickly  and  very  closely  on  the  branches,  as 
closely  as  if  they  were  on  a  child's  garland.  And 
they  are  but  a  childish  show  at  last,  for  they  give  no 
fruit  at  all ;  thus  exemplifying  the  well-known 
national  taste  of  the  Japanese  for  the  cultivation  of 
flowers.  There  was  nothing  at  all  picturesque  in  the 
position  of  the  trees  I  saw,  and  the  cherry  tree, 
moreover,  is  one  of  very  stiff  and  unpicturesque  form. 
There  was  nothing  particularly  striking  in  the  hour's 
journey,  as  regards  country,  but  a  singularly  adven- 
titious effect  was  thrown  over  vast  extents  of  the 
prospect  by  the  accident  of  the  rape,  grown  for  oil. 


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JAPAN,  267 

being  at  that  moment  in  full  feather  of  its  well-known 
golden  blossom.  Certainly  I  have  to  confess  that  at 
the  station,  both  coming  and  going,  I  was  made  to 
witness  one  spoiling  of  Japan  by  European  intrusion. 
The  Japanese,  as  a  matter  of  every-day  courtesy,  keep 
continually  bowing  in  a  sort  of  bobbing  manner,  to 
one  another  ;  no  one  makes  a  curtsey.  This  species 
of  politeness  maj'  pass  in  the  robes  of  Japan,  but 
when  the  performance  takes  place  in  European  garb, 
as  it  often  must  where  people  are  more  usefully  and 
energetically  employed  than  in  growing  fruitless 
flowers,  the  gesture  has  lost  all  possible  national 
grace,  of  which  I  have  seen  it  sometimes  exhibit  some 
traces,  and  verges  on  the  idiotic. 

My  friends,  Messrs.  Butterfield  and  Swire,  were 
again  at  my  side  to  help  me ;  for  on  going  to  their 
house  I  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Baggalay,  the  son  of 
an  old  member  and  acquaintance,  who  gave  me 
much  assistance  and  information.  And. here  I  imme- 
diately found  that  something  of  old  Japan  had  not 
been  quite  destroyed,  but  only  wounded  and  yet 
surviving.  For  instead  of  being  wholly  forbidden  to 
go  out  of  a  city,  all  were  now  to  procure  passports 
of  permission  so  to  do  ;  nor  was  there  any  danger  of 
having  the  head  taken  off  because  you  had  omitted 
to  take  off  the  hat.  But  these  passports  were  to  be 
strictly  regular ;  no  railway  tickets  could  be  bought 
without  them  ;  and  no  deviation  from  the  strict 
course  they  were  requested  for  would  be  permitted. 
I  obtained  a  separate  one  for  Kioto  on  the  spot ; 
but  the  general  one  was  to  be  prepared  at  Tokio 
and  sent  for  me  to  Kioto ;  for  without  it  I  could  not 


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268  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

stir  beyond  that  city.  After  arranging  this  indis- 
pensable matter,  I  was  well  pleased  to  take  a  Euro- 
pean lunch  with  Mr.  Baggalay  and  to  meet  a  nephew 
of  Sir  Austin  Layard.  And  if  I  remember  this 
lunch  particularly,  it  is  because  I  was  greatly  struck 
by  suddenly  seeing  a  most  striking  portrait  of  the 
late  Lord  Justice  ;  a  face  which  I  had  first  known 
young  in  Lincoln's  Inn,  so  far  back  as  in  the  thirties, 
and  which  I  now  saw  out  here  in  far  Japan,  as  that 
of  yet  one  other  dead  and  gone. 

After  a  scrimmage  about  my  servant's  name  not 
being  on  my  passport,  I  got  away  for  Kioto,  and 
according  to  advice  drove  to  the  Europeo- Japanese 
Ya-ami  hotel.  But  the  drive  was  in  a  jin-ri-ki-sha 
(or  strong-man-carriage), — that  peculiarly  Japanese 
vehicle,  on  which  Municipal  Licence  fees  are  paid  in 
Tokio  to  the  respectable  number  of  39,ooo^and 
the  distance  was  somewhat  considerable,  rendered 
seemingly  yet  more  so  because  it  was  late  and  the 
streets  were  dark.  In  the  morning  I  found  that  the 
position  of  the  hotel  was  very  picturesque,  command- 
ing a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  town  in  which,  however, 
seen  in  this  fashion,  there  is  a  considerable  pre- 
dominance of  brown  roofing.  The  day  was  spent  as 
usual,  in  wandering  about  and  making  casual  ob- 
servation ;  and  as  the  Mikado  happened  to  be  there, 
the  streets  were  more  than  usually  adorned,  par- 
ticularly with  large  and  variegated  paper  lamps.  In 
the  evening  I  was  induced  to  go  to  the  theatre  ;  an 
experience  which  I  was  not  likely  to  repeat.  It  was 
by  great  favour  and  with  difficulty  that  I  obtained  a 
ticket  to  join  ai  private  box,  and  it  surely  was  with 


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JAPAN.  269 

great  difficulty  that  I  persuaded  myself  out  of  compli- 
ment to  remain ;  but  I  take  great  credit  for  my  cour- 
tesy. Anything  so  prolonged,  dreary  and  monotonous 
I  had  not  yet  imagined.  Yet  I  read  in  Mr.  Caine's 
"  Round  the  World  "  that  the  author  spent  several 
evenings  in  going  to  the  theatres!  In  a  pleasant 
and  instructive  book,  Chamberlain's  "  Things  Japan- 
ese," there  is  a  paragraph  about  these  theatres, 
and  lectures  and  other  holdings  forth.  And  in  par- 
ticular as  to  sermons  (of  all  things)  the  missionaries 
tell  the  author  they  never  can  be  "prolix  enough 
to  stay  the  insatiable  appetite  of  their  converts." 
That  is  not  European,  certainly  ;  and  Mr.  Chamber- 
lain attributes  this  to  the  virtue  of  patience  ;  patience 
surely  reduced  to  a  vice.  In  Japan,  therefore,  be- 
ware of  theatres  and  of — sermons  ;  no  great  friends, 
these  two,  anywhere,  for  people  are  so  good ;  but 
here,  in  pari  delicto. 

I  had  a  pleasanter  entertainment  in  view ;  the 
descent  of  the  Tanba  River.  I  started  with  my 
guide  at  8.30  on  the  loth  of  April,  and  a  jinri- 
kisha  was,  of  course,  the  vehicle.  Fifteen  miles 
took  me  to  Taaba,  to  embark  on  the  river,  and 
a  long,  straight,  picturesque  street,  crowded  with 
suspended  variegated  paper  lamps,  was  the  beginning 
of  my  road.  After  that  the  rest  of  the  line  was 
through  flat  and  indeed  ugly  country,  with  hills  to 
the  right ;  but  this  suddenly  changed  when  we  came 
to  the  river,  the  banks  of  which  from  first  to  last 
were  lofty  and  pleasing,  and  now  and  then  aspired  to 
be  rocky.  But  it  is  not  for  this  alone  that  you  take 
the  boat — a  good  flat-bottomed  one.-    It  is  the  ex- 


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2/0  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS,    . 

citement  of  the  twelve  miles  down  stream  over  so 
many  rapids  that  constitutes  the  special  delight  of 
this  excursion  ;  and  it  is  one  well  worth  while.  The 
river  is  not  nearly  so  large  as  either  of  the  other  two 
which  I  shall  by-and-by  have  occasion  to  describe  ; 
but,  as  these  do  not  fall  within  the  scope  of  every- 
body's travel,  this  river  ought  by  no  means  to  be  over- 
looked. The  rapids  are  rocky,  and  skilful  management 
is  indispensable.  Moreover,  at  the  end  of  the  hour's 
rush,  which  is  about  the  average  time  occupied  over  the 
thirteen  miles,  the  far-famed  Arashi-yama,  or  Stormy 
Mountain,  rewards  the  exploit.  Here,  the  steep  and 
lofty  hills  that  clothe  the  right  of  the  river  are 
covered  thickly  in  quiet  spring  with  all  the  well- 
known  soft  foliage  of  Japan,  and  these  blush  all 
over  in  their  higher  plumes  with  spreads  of  the  pink 
wild  cherry  blossom.  Far  more  pleasing  is  this 
blossom  thus  seen  than  on  the  stiff  branches  of  the 
separate  trees;  striking  as  that  sight  is.  A  grand 
and  comfortable  tea-house  greets  you  here  ;  and  six 
miles  more  of  jinrikisha  take  you  back  to  Kioto. 

I  should  have  left  Kioto  at  once,  but  my  passport 
had  not  yet  arrived,  which  delay  cost  me  two  more 
days.  And  dull  they  were  in  weather.  Still  I  went 
to  the  *'  gardens,"  or  rather  a  wilderness  of  trees, 
mixed  with  other  features  belonging  to  a  country 
where  nature  cannot  help  being  beautiful.  The 
maples,  in  all  their  variety  of  virgin  green,  are  a  real 
charm  in  Japan.  In  autumn  they  can  show  more 
colour  ;  but  give  me  the  young  growth  of  spring 
where  all  shows  sign  of  fresh  and  beaming  life :  of 
Nature  waking  up  again  to  live;   and  where  there 


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JAPAN.  27 1 

has  been  rain,  and  sunshine  follows  it,  mark  how  the 
virgin  foliage  of  these  trees  festoons  before  the  back- 
ground of  the  dark  wet  bark  behind.  Perhaps  it  was 
the  weather  that  made  me  find  Kioto  and  its  people 
more  colourless  than  I  had  expected.  The  small 
children  seemed  to  me  to  be  the  only  gaily-dressed 
among  all  others  ;  and  then  there  seemed  to  be  a 
striking  number  of  women  with  black  teeth.  This 
was  explained  to  me  as  signifying  marriage.  We 
often  hear  of  women  losing  their  looks  after  marriage, 
but  in  Japan  it  would  seem  they  take  artificial  pains 
to  disfigure  themselves  forthwith.  What  reason  could 
my  guide  give  me }  It  was  a  short  and  decisive 
one :  to  keep  people  off.  Very  effective,  in  that 
respect,  one  might  readily  admit ;  but  capable,  one 
might  also  misgive,  of  presently  keeping  the  husband 
off  among  the  number. 

On  Sunday,  the  13th,  I  got  away,  and  came  as 
far  as  Nagoya,  where  I  slept.  And  here  I  had  my 
first  experience  of  real  Japanese  manners,  though 
the  hotel  was  Europeanized  to  some  small  degree. 
The  first  I  approached  appeared  for  some  reason 
inaccessible  ;  but  the  mystery  arising  out  of  an  inter- 
change of  unknown  tongues  was  at  last  dispelled  by 
a  young  Japanese  Missie  being  fetched  from  above 
to  squeeze  out  the  two  words  (laughing,  of  course) 
"  No  room."  This  was  the  Shiukinro  hotel,  whence  I 
went  to  the  Shinachu  ;  very  different  names,  these, 
from  "  The  Lion  "  and  "  The  Bear."  Still  they  were 
hotels  ;  and  at  this  latter  house  I  found  both  bed 
and  board.  It  was  one  of  those  curious  little  build- 
ings which  belong  to  Japan,  but  it  was  not  wholly 


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272  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

Japanese.  Built  almost  like  workboxes,  these  pre- 
sent the  most  opposite  possible  character  to  the 
heavy-beamed  structures  that  one  used  to  find  in 
Switzerland.  They  are  so  slender  that  when  night 
comes  on,  an  outside  set  of  panels  are  adjusted^ 
Everything  was  neat  and  clean,  and  the  walls  of  the 
little  square  rooms  were  daintily  ornamented  with 
colours  ;  and  here  I  may  mention  that  I  was  never 
really  troubled  with  any  insect  but  the  obscene 
and  pertinacious  house-fly.  The  dinner  was  served 
to  me  by  four  young  girls,  who  were  most  delicate 
in  their  attentions,  and  like  curious  children  put  their 
snatched  and  repeated  questions,  full  of  laughing 
amusement,  at  everything  that  I  said  in  reply.  Cer- 
tain English  words,  funnily  pronounced,  they  knew. 
That  I  came  from  England  was  enough :  off  they 
all  went,  and  on  they  came  again ;  and  off  they  went 
again.  The  whole  scene  was  a  novelty  indeed  ;  one 
or  two  broken  words  (as  I  have  said)  sufficing  to 
keep  up  the  giggling  intercourse,  whether  they  quite 
understood  or  not. 

I  was  called  at  four  the  next  morning,  and  after 
a  slight  breakfast,  not  served  by  the  young  ladies,  I 
left  with  another  passenger  for  the  train.  The  day 
turned  out  wet  and  foggy,  and  I  found  no  refresh- 
ment during  the  thirteen  hours'  journey,  beyond 
what  was  by  chance  in  my  pocket.  What  the  par- 
ticular features  of  the  view  were,  if  there  were  any, 
I  know  not.  But  I  saw  a  quantity  of  rice  in  slush 
close  at  hand,  and  now  and  then  I  almost  thought 
that  we  were  stopping  to  take  up  frogs.  Fuji  no 
Yama  was  quite  out  of  sight  when  we  ran  under 


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JAPAN.  273 

him.  One  feature  of  the  journey  reminded  me  of 
India,  the  multitudes  of  third-class  passengers,  which 
were  now  and  then  startling  and  amusing  at  the 
stations.  But  I  would  rather  talk  about  this  line 
of  country  later  on.  Suffice  it  to  say  we  arrived 
safely,  but  not  till  seven  in  the  evening ;  and  at 
length  I  was  well  content  to  find  myself  at  the 
European  Grand  Hotel  at  European  Yokohama, 
and  to  have  had  the  great  advantage  of  travelling 
through  this  journey  in  European  form. 

My  first  duty  in  Yoko  was  to  call  on  Mr.  Brooke, 
the  proprietor  of  the  Herald^  whom  I  had  met  at  my 
friend  Mr.  Gassiot's  house  in  England.  I  was  at  once 
invited  to  spend  the  rest  of  the  week  with  him  and 
Mrs.  Brooke  on  the  Bluff,  and  willingly  made  my 
way  thither,  where,  besides  a  charming  house  and  host 
and  hostess,  I  found  a  beautifully  arrayed  garden, 
and  the  grounds  artistically  planted  with  trees  ;  the 
view  from  the  windows  being  correspondingly 
pleasing  and  attractive.  My  name  was  also  put 
down  at  the  Club,  and  thus  Yokohama  became  a 
pleasant  resting  place.  The  Exhibition  being  open 
at  Tokio,  an  early  day  was  of  course  devoted  to  a 
visit  thither,  where  every  possible  variety  of  articles 
as  usual,  confounded  attention  ;  and  this  was  more- 
over almost  entirely  distracted  by  the  hustling  crowds 
of  other  mere  curious  inspectors.  One  effect  prac- 
tically wrought  upon  me  was  that  I  was  induced  to 
give  orders,  in  town,  for  china  and  cloisonnd ;  and 
in  another  point  of  view  I  must  mention  having  been 
greatly  struck  by  the  difference  between  the  two 
styles  of   Japanese  paintings   that  were  plentifully 

T 


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274  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

exhibited  :  one  in  the  well-known  style  of  their  own 
peculiar  body  colour  (so  to  call  it)  where  a  few  light 
touches  serve  to  suggest  immensity,  and  the  other  in 
oils,  where,  on  the  other  hand,  the  pigment  is  laid  on 
in  lumps  and  masses. 

Altogether,  I  spent  exactly  two  calendar  months  in 
Japan,  from  the  Sth  of  April  till  the  6th  of  June, 
though  I  came  back  for  a  few  more  days,  later  on,  to 
Nagasaki.  My  weather  was  by  no  means  propitious 
during  all  this  period,  nevertheless  I  saw  the  few 
leading  points  that  I  came  to  see,  and  was  fortunately 
favoured  with  fair  weather  on  these  occasions,  ex- 
cepting on  my  Nikko  excursion.  April  is  one  of  the 
wet  months  in  Japan,  and  in  1890  it  was  cold  also. 
But  on  the  21st  I  made  bold  to  start  for  Nikko,  and 
dined  and  slept  at  the  Tokio  Hotel.  The  next 
morning  I  marked  "wet,^*  and  had  to*  wait  till  the 
second  train  for  Yusunomiya  Station ;  the  journey 
to  which,  for  some  three  hours  or  a  little  more, 
showed  me  nothing  calling  for  remark  except  flat  rice 
grounds,  and  these  not  being  pleasant  features  in  the 
dry  time  are  certainly  not  so  in  the  wet.  From  this 
station  to  the  hotel  at  Nikko  (which  I  was  told 
means  "sunshine,")  the  distance  is  twenty-five  miles, 
and  it  was  then  necessary  to  hire  the  inevitable  jin- 
rikisha  for  the  journey.  Two,  therefore,  I  took, 
each  with  two  men ;  one  for  myself  and  the  other  for 
my  guide,  Awoki,  But  now  there  is  a  railway  all 
through,  a  great  relief  in  one  respect,  but  destructive 
of  the  most  impressive  part  of  the  journey  in 
another.  I  refer  to  the  road  that  runs  for  miles  under 
an  avenue  of  large  and  spreading  cedars,  forming,  no 


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JAPAN.  275 

doubt,  the  original  approach  to  the  Temple.  There 
are,  of  course,  interruptions  in  this  surely  unex- 
ampled length  of  avenue,  partly  by  the  total 
disappearance  of  some  of  the  original  trees,  and 
partly  by  younger  ones  of  stunted  growth,  planted 
in  various  spots  ;  but  the  effect  produced  is  grand  ; 
historically  and  devotionally  as  regards  their  plant- 
ing, and  actually  so  as  regards  themselves.  All  this 
is,  of  course,  lost  in  the  railway,  though  for  some  length 
the  line  runs  close  by  the  side  of  the  trees.  On  my 
own  journey  I  saw  that  it  was  nearly  complete, 
which  fact,  by  the  way,  cost  me  not  a  little  ;  for  of 
course  nothing  more  was  being  laid  out  to  keep  the 
road  in  order,  out  of  which  it  had  hideously  wan- 
dered. If  it  did  not  shake  every  joint  out  of  the 
socket  that  is  about  all  I  can  say  for  it ;  and  often- 
times I  had  to  get  out  and  walk  along  the  path  close 
by  the  large  stems,  thus  somewhat  varying  the 
picture,  and  very  much  varying  the  shocks.  Time, 
to  a  certain  extent,  was  lost,  and  when  the  dusk 
approached  the  pines  increased  the  sombre  :  nor  did  I 
reach  the  hotel  till  nearly  ten  at  night,  and  in  the 
absolute  dark. 

The  next  morning  I  was  rewarded  by  miserable 
wet  and  fog.  An  American  lady  agreed  with  me  that 
indoors  was  therefore  the  only  proper  place  either  in 
Japan  or  any  where  else  ;  but  four  others  defied  the 
weather,  and  started  in  their  palanquins  up  the 
mountain  to  see  the  well-known  lake.  They  were 
very  wet  when  they  came  back  and  they  were  very 
silent  too.  *'  What  did  we  come  for  ? "  they  had 
said  when  starting.    "  What  did  you  go  for  t "    we 

T  2 


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276  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDEKINGS. 

asked  when  they  returned.  I  suppose  the  lake  is 
worth  seeing ;  at  all  events  it  must  offer  a  pleasant 
day's  excursion.  But  some  photographs  that  were 
shown  me  lead  me  to  suppose  that  that  was  the 
limit,  and  decided  me  not  to  spend  an  extra  day 
on  it  in  doubtful  weather.  Indeed,  the  next  day 
would  not  have  suited.  It  opened  fairly  in  the 
early  hours^  but  threatened  to  lose  its  temper  very 
soon  ;  so  I  shot  off  at  once  to  the  Temple,  and  was 
just  in  time.  You  come  to  this  by  a  straight  ap- 
proach, and  are  at  once  much  struck  by  the  magnifi- 
cence of  its]  position,  to  which  it  owes  so  much  ;  for 
immediately  behind  the  group  of  structures  below, 
including  a  rather  lofty  pagoda,  there  rises  a  towering 
and  precipitous  broad  screen  of  rock,  densely  covered 
with  forest  trees  of  various  kinds,  hovering,  as  it 
were,  over  the  sacred  edifices  both  for  adornment 
and  protection. 

As  you  approach  through  the  Torii,  or  outer  gate, 
and  mount  the  steps,  you  become  aware  of  the 
elaborate  work  within,  and  you  pass  up  three 
terraces  from  court  to  court,  astonished  at  the  detail 
outside  and  in.  The  predominance  of  roofs  and 
eaves,  and  the  great  labour  bestowed  upon  them,  as 
before  observed  at  Bangkok,  is  particularly  apparent 
here,  not  forgetting  the  cornices  inside.  Far  from 
the  least  impressive  view  of  all  is  obtained  by  walking 
up  the  200  stone  steps  in  the  forest  behind,  and 
gazing  on  the  Temples  through  the  vast  stems  of 
the  trees  that  clothe  them.  This  is  an  addition  to 
the  examination  of  the  Temple  that  ought  not  by 
any  means  to  be  omitted,  though  there  is  nothing 


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JAPAN.  277 

worth  seeing  at  the  top.  Scarcely  had  my  walk 
concluded  when  the  sunshine  ceased,  and  rain  coming 
on,  I  sought  my  European  shelter  for  the  remainder 
of  the  day. 

The  following  one  was  fine.  I  did  not  care  for 
the  lake,  but  enjoyed  the  very  varied  lights  and 
shades  that  adorned  the  avenue  of  cypress  on  my 
return.  Both  in  coming  and  going  I  had  experience 
of  the  tea  houses  and  their  amused  and  amusing 
attendants,  and  from  time  to  time  caught  sight  of 
real  shrubs  of  the  cultivated  azalea,  completely  laden 
with  scarlet  blossoms,  whole  branches  of  which  are 
gathered,  seemingly  without  stint ;  and  in  one  par- 
ticular case  the  sun  was  shining  so  brilliantly  on  a 
particularly  loaded  specimen  that  I  was  reminded 
of  the  favourite  device  of  one  of  our  kings,  '^  The 
Rose  in  Sun."  Indeed  I  stopped  ray  jinrikisha  to 
enjoy  a  long  contemplation  of  it  in  unadulterated 
light,  while  I  myself  was  under  the  shade  of  the 
avenue  with  open  pupils. 

Finding  on  my  arrival  at  Tokio  that  the  Honour- 
able Mr.  and  Mrs. Napier  had  gone  down  to  Yokohama 
with  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  Connaught,  I  had  no 
motive  for  making  a  halt  at  the  former  city,  and  went 
straight  down  to  the  "  Oriental."  Two  chance 
meetings  here  turned  out  very  fortunately.  On 
looking  at  the  visitors'  book,  I  found  that  Mr. 
Tremlett,  our  English  Consul  in  Saigon,  had  arrived, 
to  whom  Captain  Jones  had  forwarded  the  official 
letter  that  was  to  secure  me  every  facility  for  visiting 
the  Cambodian  Temples.  I  was  of  course  well 
pleased  to  make  his  acqaintance,  and  obtained  much 


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2^8  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

information  as  to  my  projected  visit  towards  the  end 
of  the  year.  The  other  was  the  chancing  to  open  a 
conversation  with  a  young  and  energetic  traveller 
and  his  wife,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Needham  Wilson,  who 
had  seen  a  great  deal  of  Japan  as  well  as  other 
places,  and  who  particularly  recommended  me  to 
the  two  rivers,  the  Fujikawa  and  the  Tenriugawa,  as 
presenting,  in  their  opinion,  the  finest  scenery  they 
had  witnessed  in  the  country.  This  was  exactly  the 
class  of  scenery  that  I  had  come  to  see,  and  not  to 
run  from  one  place  to  another  for  the  mere  sake  of 
seeing  what  you  could  see  elsewhere.  There  is, 
indeed,  a  great  deal  of  very  plain  and  commonplace 
scenery  in  Japan — I  speak  of  the  main  island  ;  and  Mr. 
Chamberlain  himself  says  that  "  padi  fields  of  vivid 
green  (not  always)  separated  into  squares  by  low  mud 
dykes  form  the  most  characteristic  feature  of  the 
Japanese  landscape."  One,  or  if  possible  both  these 
rivers  therefore  became  my  two  leading  objects  before 
my  return  to  Koby,  and  by  perseverance  and 
marshalling  my  time  and  forces  I  accomplished 
both. 

The  run  from  Yokohama  to  see  the  Daibutsu  or 
"  Great  Buddha  "  at  Kamakura  was  a  matter,  of 
course,  of  one  day.  It  happened  to  be  a  holiday 
when  I  went,  and  crowds  were  (as  everywhere  else) 
idling  about,  enjoying  the  air.  No  great  movement 
in  amusements  was  visible,  but  among  the  number 
was  one  that  attracted  my  attention  by  its  humming 
noise.  The  puzzle  was  solved  by  discovering  that 
this  sound  belonged  to  several  coloured  kites,  some 
in  the  shape  of  fish,  and  some  in  the  shape  of  birds — 


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JAPAN.  279 

'^"t  not  much    resembling   the  humming    birds  of 
Brazil— th^t  were  being  flown  on  high ;  these  were 
so  constructed  as   to  catch    the    wind  and   hum,  a 
characteristic  of  Japanese  ingenuity  and  innocence. 
Then  came  the  huge  Buddha,  which  Mr.  Chamber- 
lain says  you  must  see  more  than  twice  before  you 
can  thoroughly  appreciate  "  the  calm,  intellectual, 
passionless  face  which  seems  to  concentrate  in  itself 
the  whole  philosophy  of  the  Buddhist  religion — the 
triumph  of  mind  over  sense,  of  eternity  over  fleeting 
time,  of  the  enduring  majesty  of  Nirvana  over  the 
trivial  prattle,  the  transitory  agitations  of  mundane 
existence/'     I   have  copied  the  whole   sentence  in 
order  to  confess  that  having  paid  only  one  visit  to  it, 
that  is  to  say  two  with  the  interval  of  an  hour  or  two 
I  wholly  failed  to  trace  all  these  characteristics  in 
*e  gigantic  countenance.     Nor  can  I  defend  myself 
upon  the  above  excuse  ;  for  I  have  seen  photograph 
after  photograph  of  the  original,  vividly  recalling  its 
exact  form  and  expression,  and  yet  have  still  remained 
unperceiving  as  before. 

For  myself,  if  I  compare  this  countenance  with  that 
of  either  of  the  three — but  they  are  marvellously 
identical — gigantic  figures  of  the  great  Rameses  II., 
sitting  side  by  side,  in  a  sublime  repose  upon  their 
thrones  outside  the  Temple  of  Aboo  Simbel,  the 
Daibutsu  must  retire  altogether.  Yet  it  did  not 
require,  in  this  latter  case,  a  second  visit,  and  scarcely 
more  than  a  second  gaze,  to  feel  fully  impressed  with 
the  majestic  beauty,  the  excessive  sweetness  of  those 
faces,  which  I  must  say,  without  attributing  to  them 
all  that  would  appear  to  belong  to  the  Daibutsu,  I 


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280  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

infinitely  prefer.  The  total  height  of  these,  as  sitting 
figures,  is  given  as  of  sixty-six  feet,  and  (according* 
to  my  own  observation)  the  flat  open  hands,  laid 
out  upon  the  knees,  impart  a  very  magic  of  placidity. 
It  is  true  I  saw  them  to  the  very  best  advantage. 
They  look  calmly  out  eastward  over  a  very  broad 
part  of  their  river.  We  fortunately  moored  there 
for  the  night,  when  the  scene  far  surpassed  that  by 
day.  It  happened  to  be  a  full  moon  at  rising,  which 
therefore  shone  full  upon  them  ;  and  three  or  four  of 
us,  clambering  on  to  the  enormous  masses  of  golden 
gritty  sand  which  are  banked  up  against  the  Temple, 
lay  there  and  enjoyed  the  magical  effect  which  it 
may  be  imagined  so  fine  a  moonlight  would  cast 
upon  those  countenances.  I  do  not  attempt  to  work 
out  any  compound  group  of  sentiments  that  would 
appear  to  occupy  their  brow,  but  simply  speak  of 
their  sweet  and  majestic  placidity.  I  am  no  great 
believer  in  these  elaborate  analyses  of  countenances 
after  you  are  told  to  whom  they  belong.  I  always 
remember,  while  at  Rome,  some  thirty-five  years  ago, 
the  ingenious  analysis  of  the  various  expressions 
made  manifest  in  the  countenance  of  the  then  sup- 
posed portrait  of  the  Beatrice  Cenci,  in  the  Barberini 
Palace.  I  never  could  appreciate  them,  and  an 
Italian  reviewer,  some  few  years  ago,  published  an 
article,  showing  that  the  figure  is  no  Beatrice  Cenci 
at  all. 

I  was  now  to  prepare  for  an  excursion  to  one  of 
my  rivers.  Which  was  it  to  be  ?  I  had  engaged  an 
active  and  intelligent  young  guide  for  the  rest  of  my 
sojourn  in  Japan,  whose  name  was  Sosuke  Yama- 


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JAPAN.  281 

ixioto,  and  whose  residence  was  213  Gochome  Moto- 
machi,  in  Yokohama ;  I  could  cordially  recommend 
him.  On  consulting  him,  I  decided  I  should  at  first 
try  the  river  Fujikawa,  as  being  the  nearest,  and  the 
one  from  which  I  could  return  to  Yoko,  includ- 
ing the  usual  round  by  Myanoshita,  in  the  course 
of  a  week.  The  scenery  also,  he  assured  me,  was 
quite  on  a  par  with  that  of  the  Tenriugawa,  the  latter 
being  grander  but  the  former  sweeter  ;  while  both 
were  magnificent.  This  was  a  true  description  of  the 
two. 

Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  Thursday,  the  8th 
of  May,  having  arranged  all  necessary  provisions, 
my  guide  being,  of  course,  the  cook,  I  and  he 
started  by  railway  as  far  as  the  forty-five  mile  station 
of  Kodzu,  and  there  we  took  the  tram-car  to  Yumoto, 
on  the  road  to  Myanoshita.  We  lunched  at  the  hotel 
Jamanoyu  at  Tonosa,  and  came  on  to  the  Fujiya 
hotel,  with  all  its  spread  of  glass  windows,  at  the 
end  of  our  day's  journey.  Throughout  this  march  I 
was  constantly  charmed  by  the  delicate  foliage  on  all 
sides,  by  the  wooded  gorges  and  river,  and  temple  ; 
and  began  to  obtain  a  decided  introduction  to  the 
particular  character  of  Japanese  scenery.  One  occa- 
sional feature  particularly  struck  me.  From  time  to 
time  you  come  upon  a  group  of  tombs,  utterly 
isolated,  attached  to  no  temple,  to  no  building  what- 
ever. The  sanctity  of  the  churchyard  for  the  repose 
of  the  dead  is  totally  unknown.  As  their  temples  are 
not  for  congregations,  so  are  there  no  surrounding 
enclosures  to  protect  their  tombs.  Respect  is,  how- 
ever, always  shown. 


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282  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

The  following  day  was  naturally  devoted  to  the 
Lake  Hakone.  The  view  of  Fujiyama  from  that  hotel 
is  well  worth  gazing  on.  He  is  not  naked.  His  snowy 
peak  stands  up  behind  the  foldings  of  middle  distance 
mountains,  and  the  water  in  the  foreground,  fringed 
on  the  right  by  hills  of  hanging  foliage,  though  those 
to  the  left  are  somewhat  arid,  combines,  as  a  breast 
of  water  often  does,  to  enchant  the  eye.  Here  also  is 
a  temple  that  can  boast  its  planted  avenue.  The  row 
across  the  lake,  on  the  return  home,  served  to  disclose 
its  attendant  woodland  ornaments,  but  on  the  other 
side  were  opened  fatiguing  stretches  of  uneven  sul- 
phur grounds,  of  which  I  had  rather  more  than  enough 
before  I  found  myself  again  in  the  glass  house  of 
Fujiya. 

The  next  day's  journey  was  in  another  direction  ; 
towards  the  river  I  was  bound  for ;  and  my  resting 
place  was  to  be  Subaschidi.  I  had  been  recommended 
by  no  means  to  miss  the  Otoma  Togc  Pass,  in  order 
to  see  the  finest  full  view  of  Fuji  no  Yama  that  the 
island  affords  ;  and  happily  my  path  lay  exactly  over 
it.  We  mounted,  as  it  were,  the  side  of  a  long  stiff 
screen,  sjeeing  nothing  before  us  but  the  ridge  we  were 
to  attain  to  ;  until  at  last  we  got  there,  and  stood 
upon  a  narrow  neck,  before  again  descending  on  the 
other  side.  But  at  the  instant  of  arriving,  and  sitting 
down  on  a  bench  outside  the  tea-house  for  a  moment's 
pause,  my  attention  had  not  yet  been  arrested  by  any 
striking  feature.  In  a  few  moments,  however,  I  was 
up  again,  and  walking  but  a  few  paces  to  the  other 
edge,  really  only  a  few  paces,  there  suddenly  opened 
before  my  eyes  what  I  must  honestly  call  an  astound- 


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JAPAN,  283 

ing  view.  It  was  a  "  surprise  view  "  altogether.  On 
mounting  the  neck  I  saw  nothing,  on  crossing  it  with  a 
few  paces  I  saw  everything.  A  varied  and  enormous 
valley  lay  before  me  and  far  below  me,  just  fifteen 
hundred  feet  below  me  where  I  stood  ;  and  covering 
up  the  very  whole  of  the  far-away  background 
there  was  spread  forth  the  full  12,500  feet  figure 
of  Fujiyama,  staring  me  in  the  face  like  an  enor- 
mous pyramid,  or  taking  rather  the  shape  of  a  vast 
protecting  flat  tent  curtain.  That  this  view  has 
been  seen  by  many  and  has  been  already  set  to  the 
grindorgan  by  many,  may  be  true.  But  that  makes 
no  difference  to  me  ;  I  saw  it  for  the  first  time,  and 
shall  ever  remember  it  as  one  of  the  leading  glories 
of  my  travels.  Nor  was  I  deceived  by  my  aneroid, 
for  I  afterwards  compared  its  register  with  one  of 
the  Company's  engineers  at  Gotemba  station,  I 
stood  at  a  height  of  3000  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
Gotemba,  which  lies  in  the  valley,  is  marked  on  the 
railway  map  at  a  height  of  1499.  What  the  real  dis- 
tance was  from  the  ridge  I  stood  on  to  the  snow- 
crown  of  the  mountain  I  had  no  means  of  ascertain- 
ing ;  and  perhaps  for  the  picture's  sake  it  is  best  left 
in  mystery,  on  which  the  astonished  senses  love  to 
feed.  Down  to  Gotemba  we  had  to  come,  and  there 
at  once  were  found  two  first-class  jinrikishas,  in  which 
we  started  at  full  speed  for  Subaschidi,  occupying 
from  4  to  6  p.m.,  and  mounting  just  ,500  feet  more, 
i.e.  2000.  Here  I  received  a  check.  The  road  to 
Kofu,  a  distance  of  one  day,  was  broken  up,  and  of 
course  the  first  misgiving  that  arose  was  that  I  could 
not  get  there.     But  that  was  not  the  case,  the  vexa- 


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284  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

tion  was  limited  to  my  being  driven  into  two.  Mis- 
fortune, however,  turned  out  fortune,  and  the  toad's 
head  bore  yet  a  precious  jewel ;  for  the  road  we 
were  obliged  to  take  on  the  following  morning,  besides 
being  always  beautiful,  and  leading  past  two  temples, 
brought  us  down  upon  the  splendid  Lake  of  Kawa- 
guchi,  which  we  should  not  otherwise  have  seen. 
Here  again  was  hanging  foliage,  and  rodks  and  water, 
truly  Japanese.  But  the  grandest  of  effects  appeared 
when,  turning  the  head  and  looking  across  the  water, 
there  rose  seemingly  almost  out  of  it  Fujiyama's  selt 
In  short,  we  kept  going  round  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain and  had  it  almost  ever  in  view.  On  the  borders 
of  the  lake  we  rested  for  the  night. 

The  two  temples  we  thus  had  to  pass  were  those  at 
Yamanaka  and  Yoshida.  Of  the  former,  architectur- 
ally speaking,  there  was  not  much  to  say,  though,  as 
usual,  the  gateways,  roofs,  eaves,  and  soffits,  formed 
the  most  elaborate  features.  But  the  position  was 
romantic,  seeing  that  it  was  surrounded  by  a  grove 
of  fine  timber  and  foliage,  the  beautiful  camphor 
tree  predominating,  as  it  is  said  to  do  round  the 
many  temples  of  Is^.  The  other  temple  of  Yoshida 
was  a  very  fine  one,  and  was  also  well-bosomed  with 
trees.  The  approach  to  it  was  by  a  long  straight- 
planted  avenue,  adorned  with  what  they  call  stone- 
lamps.  A  fine  fountain  or  tank  occupied  the  court 
to  which  you  were  invited,  or  from  which  you  were 
warned,  by  a  furious-looking  elaborate  bronze  dragon ; 
the  terrors  inseparable  from  all  religions  being  thus 
combined  with  its  softer  poetry.  On  one  side,  a 
white  wooden  horse  in  a  separate  box  stood  peer- 


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JAPAN.  285 

ing  through  an  iron  grating,  on  going  to  look  at 
which  I  found  him  buried  up  to  his  knees  and  hocks 
in  horseshoes  made  of  straw,  to  be  tied  upon  the 
hoofs.  Fortunate  for  him,  I  thought  it,  that  he  was 
not  bound  to  work  and  wear  them.  But  I  had  to 
change  my  mind  about  these  shoes  in  this  regard. 
Here,  however,  they  were  only  a  Japanese  form  of 
the  "  Gift  to  the  Altar." 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th  of  May  we  were  to 
start  on  our  journey  to  Kofu  and  were  to  ascend  a 
very  steep  mountain  side  ;  and  here  the  jinrikishas 
came  to  a  halt.  We  were  to  take  ponies,  and  when 
I  came  out  to  observe  the  arrangements  made,  what 
was  my  astonishment  to  find  all  the  nags'  hoofs 
cobbled  with  those  very  same  straw  shoes.  No- 
thing at  first  would  induce  me  to  mount,  but  I 
presently  was  persuaded  by  my  guide  to  do  so,  on 
his  authority  that  the  horses  could  go  in  nothing 
else.  He  was  to  have  something  also,  though  he 
manfully  protested  ;  but  I  made  him  take  a  Cango 
or  Japanese  net  upon  a  straight  pole,  with  a  carrier 
before  and  behind.  Thus  I  could  effect  a  change 
from  time  to  time,  and  walk  oh  foot  besides.  All 
went  slow,  but  went  well  ;  the  horse  did  not  trip  at 
all.  We  mounted  very  high  and  very  steeply,  and 
eventually  descended  to  a  place  called  Kuloyoma, 
eye-feasting,  as  usual,  on  the  foliage.  I  wonder  how 
many,  species  of  maple  Japan  can  count  ?  At  this 
last  place  I  resigned  the  straw  hoofings  and  entered 
a  horse-car,  which  at  first  nearly  jolted  my  lunch  out 
of  me,  but  by-and-by  got  better  because  the  road 
got  flatter  and  uglier,  till  at  last  we  came  to  ugly 


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286  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

Kofu.  Here  I  found  we  were  to  sleep  ;  but  I  found 
also  that  I  was  still  ten  miles  from  our  starting-point  on 
the  river — Kajica-zawa — whither  we  were  to  go  in  the 
morning.  This  plan  I  at  once  abjured,  deciding  to 
get  to  the  battlefield  at  once.  A  new  horse  was 
therefore  found,  and  after  driving  over  a  spread  of 
ugly  rice  grounds,  I  reached  the  starting  station, 
and  sat  down  very  comfortably  in  the  boat-tea- 
house, ready  for  a  start  in  the  morning. 

But  there  was  a  first  and  an  immediate  second 
question  to  be  asked.  First,  what  is  the  state  of 
the  river?  for  if  the  rains  have  filled  it  above  a 
certain  mark  the  boatmen  are  forbidden  to  go. 
Secondly,  is  there  a  boat  ?  for  once  down  stream, 
many  days  are  requisite  for  crawling  and  fighting 
up  again,  and  many  days  sometimes  elapse  between 
the  last  departure  and  the  first  return.  Happily 
for  me  both  questions  could  be  answered  satis- 
factorily. The  river,  though  high,  and  though  still 
rising,  was  still  one  foot  below  the  forbidden  mark, 
and  happily  there  were  still  two  boats  at  hand.  So 
I  slept  in  confidence,  and  prayed  for  fine  weather 
in  the  morning,  which  therefore,  for  my  audacity, 
came  with  pouring  rain.  One  day  lost  was  not  of 
much  account ;  but  of  course  I  trembled  for  the 
rising  of  the  river,  particularly  as  the  wet  continued 
till  the  afternoon.  I  then  walked  out  in  the  mud 
to  look  about,  and  was  much  struck  by  the  abrupt- 
ness of  the  change  of  scenery  at  Kajica-zawa.  It  is 
most  remarkable.  It  is  from  a  dead  flat  above 
stream  to  this  very  spot,  when  the  river  at  once 
enters  lofty  green  and  wooded  banks  on  both  sides. 


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JAPAN,  287 

The  morning  of  the  14th  came  with  smiling  sun- 
shine, and  at  an  early  hour  the  boatmen  came  with 
smiling  faces,  and  my  guide,  smiling  also,  to  tell  me 
that  the  river  was  still  several  inches  below  the  for- 
bidden mark,  and  that  the  sooner  we  were  off  the 
better ;  in  which  suggestion  I  heartily  concurred. 
So  exactly  at  seven  we  were  in  the  boat  with  all  our 
belongings  and  provisions  and  under  the  guardian- 
ship of  three  men  and  a  boy. 

The  moment  we  began  to  move  the  river  scenery 
began  to  charm,  and  from  beginning  to  end  I  con- 
fess to  have  been  enchanted.  The  time  generally 
occupied  in  the  descent  was  given  as  about  eight 
hours,  but  as  the  water  was  high  and  the  current 
strong  we  occupied  only  seven.  During  all  this 
period  I  do  not  remember  even  one  five  minutes' 
space  of  flagging  interest.  The  banks  were  moun- 
tainous throughout  on  both  sides,  but  far  from  being 
monotonously  so.  They  were  green  and  folding 
and  refolding  in  every  variety,  with  constant  per- 
spectives of  lateral  valleys,  which,  as  we  looked  upon 
them  in  passing,  might  seem  as  if  of  Rasselas. 
Villages  were  visible  on  high  from  time  to  time, 
and  waving  spreads  of  wheat,  but  principally  of 
barley,  sloped  towards  the  river  and  swept  from 
one's  memory  at  the  moment  the  dead,  foul  cultiva- 
tion of  the  rice.  Nor  are  hanging  forests  of  Japanese 
foliage  to  be  forgotten.  Something  of  the  general 
effect  produced  upon  one  must  of  course  be  attri- 
buted to  the  first  time  ;  something  to  the  continuous 
movement,  and  much  perhaps  to  the  bright  state  of 
excitement    in   which    the   mind    was  kept  by   the 


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288  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

constant  succession  of  rapids,  of  which  warning  was 
from  time  to  time  given  by  the  beating  of  a  long 
oar  against  the  side  of  the  boat.  The  men  knew 
well  what  they  were  about  and  that  was  enough. 
We  were  only  somewhat  splashed  once  or  twice. 

What  are  these  rapids  ?  They  differ  from  those 
on  the  Tokio  river  in  character,  and  in  size  of 
course  immensely.  They  seem  to  be  formed  by  vast 
promontories  of  boulders  stretching  out  into  the 
sloping  river — how  formed  I  cannot  say — and  occupy- 
ing some  four-fifths  of  the  stream.  The  water  there- 
fore rushes  with  impetuosity  through  the  remaining 
opening,  running  up  to  it  along  the  upper  side 
of  the  promontory.  The  art  in  navigation  thus 
seems  to  consist  in  getting  your  boat  well  placed 
in  this  side  current,  but  not  too  near  the  promontory, 
so  that  it  is  carried  up  to  the  opening  just  as  if  its 
nose  was  in  a  moment  going  belt  against  the  rocky 
bank.  But  at  that  exact  moment  it  comes  in  con- 
tact with,  and  is  caught  by  the  down  rush,  which,  for- 
bidding the  seemingly  inevitable  contact,  swings  its 
nose  down  with  a  sort  of  unconscious  vehemence, 
and  carries  it  into  the  next  space  of  comparatively 
smooth  water.  These  spreads  are  sometimes  very 
smooth  and  seem  very  lovely  lakes.  Do  not  content 
yourself  with  the  front  perspective  only  ;  continually 
look  back  and  look  round  ;  you  will  find  you  are  in  a 
panorama  of  beauty. 

At  last  all  is  over,  and  you  emerge  in  an  open 
country  on  a  canal,  and  a  railway  station,  Iwabuchi 
by  name.  This  we  did,  but  by  my  guide's  advice 
I  went  an  hour  down  the  line  in  order  to  get  a  good 


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JAPAN.  289 

hotel  at  Shidzuoca.  Here  I  visited  a  fine  but  un- 
poetically  placed  temple,  and  afterwards  discussed 
an  across-country  journey  to  the  other  river.  But 
having  deliberated  for  a  while,  wiser  counsels  pre- 
vailed. I  was  sufficiently  charged  with  memories 
of  Fujikawa,  and  resolved  to  return  direct  to  Yoko- 
hama. This  I  did  by  the  morning  train  of  the  iSth 
of  May,  falling  in  (not  out)  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Brooke  at  one  of  the  short  stations.  Thus,  includ- 
ing the  deviation,  which  to  some  whom  I  know  I 
would  almost  recommend,  the  seventh  day  found  me 
at  "  The  Grand  "  again. 

It  was  on  my  return  to  Yoko  that  I  decided 
about  leaving  Japan  in  consequence  of  a  letter  1 
had  received,  that  opened  me  a  chance  of  a  visit  to 
Peking.  But  I  had  now  determined  to  see  the 
Tenriugawa  river  on  my  way  down  to  Kobe,  and 
therefore  I  arranged  to  leave  Yoko  on  the  morning 
of  the  22nd  of  May.  Bidding  good-bye  to  my  friends, 
therefoire,  I  sent  my  own  servant  on  to  Kobe  direct, 
and  started  with  Sosuke  Yamamota  by  the  9.15 
morning  train  to  Tokio,  in  order  to  take  the  train 
from  the  Yueno  station  to  Takasaki,  and  to 
continue  thence  by  jinrikisha  to  Ikao.  This  I  did, 
arriving  late  at  Ikao — ^just  too  late  to  join  a  dinner- 
table — after  having  passed  through  the  usual  style 
of  Japanese  scenery  among  the  mountains. 

At  a  quarter  to  seven  on  the  following  morning  I 
started  to  the  voice  of  the  cuckoo,  and  was  accom- 
panied from  time  to  time  during  the  day  by  a  little 
bird,  always  too  shy  to  be  seen,  but  which  I  was 
told  was  of  a  plain  brown  ;  it  would  sing  just  one  or 

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290  WANDEJilNGS.  AND    WONDEHrNGS. 

two  notes  only,  but  those  one  or  two  of  the  nightingale. 
**  Everybody  "  knew  it,  but  nobody  knew  its  name. 
The  whole  of  the  road  was  varied  and  striking :  hill, 
valley,  barley,  foliage  and  mountain,  with  a  peep  at 
just  the  distant  snow  top  of  Fuji  Yama  to  our  left, 
standing  out  clean  against  the  spotless  sky.  But 
finer  scenery  remains ;  for  after  you  have  descended 
to  a  very  picturesque  lake,  and  mounted  again  to  a 
spot  called  Tenjin  Toge,  you  stand  before  a  beauiiful 
surprise  view  of  vast  extent,  and  in  the  distance  you 
behold  the  strange  feature  of  perfectly  serrated  ridges 
perfectly  covered  with  bright  green  grass.  Snow 
tops  back  the  picture.  Here  is  a  small  structure 
erected  to  the  God  Tenji,  and  here  I  rested  at  the 
tea-house  for  a  while  to  gaze  and  to  sip  and  to  gaze 
again. 

As  Asama  Yama  is  now  the  only  active  volcano  in 
Japan  I  must  not  of  course  omit  noting  that  I  saw 
him  smoking,  and  as  every  little  incident  helps  in  a 
long  march  I  must  mention  also  a  most  singular 
recumbent  profile  marked  out  on  one  of  the  green 
hills,  just  before  reaching  the  lake  I  had  passed  by. 
As  it  is  not  like  the  Duke  of  Wellington  or  Washing- 
ton I  don't  mind  calling  attention  to  it.  The  small 
point  is  that  besides  the  remarkably  regular  features, 
a  most  curious  effect  of  a  perfect  eyebrow  is  produced 
by  a  large  clump  of  bushes  rising  exactly  in  the 
proper  place. 

The  peculiar  charm  of  this  day's  march  began  at 
the  Tenjin  Toge.  We  were  to  descend  the  long 
wooded  gorge,  which  increased  in  beauty  as  we  went. 
The  trees  were  fine  and  the  underwood  was  fine,  and 


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JAPAN.  291 

here  was  a  special  beauty,  in  that  every  now  and 
then  vast  blushes  were  thrown  over  the  undergrowth 
by  the  copious  spreads  of  the  wild  pink  azalea.  Then 
we  came  to  the  bottom  where  another  gorge  joined 
in  and  brought  a  stream,  and  where  a  huge,  lofty,  dark- 
coloured,  integral  panel-rock  stood  staring  among  the 
trees.  The  whole  might  have  served  for  an  imagined 
scene  worthy  of  Midsummer  Night's  Dream.  Shaking 
off  enchantment  I  began  to  rise  again,  but  still  in 
depths  of  hanging  forest,  where  amidst  other  huge 
integral  panel-rocks,  huge  cedars,  and  a  clear  and 
rushing  stream,  I  came  upon  the  Temple  of  Haruna. 
So  closely  does  all  this  scenery  hover  round  it  that 
some  of  its  pillars  may  be  at  first  confounded  with 
the  trees.  The  building  itself  will  not  for  a  moment 
compare  with  Nikko,  but  the  position  is  far  more 
romantic,  and  the  care  that  has  been,  as  usual, 
bestowed  upon  the  curves  of  the  roofings  is  eminently 
effective  here.  My  guide  had  to  pull  me  away  that 
we  might  arrive  at  the  Shi-shi-a  tea-house  at  Mioge 
before  night  overtook  us. 

The  next  day  was  very  fine,  and  the  morning  was 
devoted  to  a  journey  to  the  two  temples  on  the  high 
ridge,  bearing  the  strange  names,  Kurakake-yan  and 
Boson  Gon-gen.  Passing  across  a  large  wooded  and 
fantastical  dell,  you  mount  the  other  side  towards  one 
large  dark  tree  at  the  top.  When  you  get  there, 
circumspice  I  There  is  fantastic  beauty  everywhere ; 
here  I  now  found  that  I  was  close  upon  those 
green  serrated  ridges  that  I  had  seen  from  far  off. 
Walk  all  along,  continually  delighted  ;  go  through  the 
large  natural  arch  and  look  round  ;  finally  mount  the 

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292  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

140  Steps  to  the  Boson  Gon-gen;  again  mount  the 
top  of  this  if  you  please,  and  circumspice  again. 
There  is  a  downright  confusion,  far  and  wide,  of 
green  serrated  ridges,  round  heads,  valleys,  ribbed 
and  wrinkled  hill  sides  :  all  these  compose  a  picture 
the  equal  to  which  I  do  not  believe  Japan  itself  can 
show  elsewhere,  and  when  you  feel  quite  sure  you 
have  gazed  long  enough,  you  can  return. 

As  to  the  temple  which  lies  high  up  on  the  face  of 
an  almost  perpendicular  rock  close  by  the  tea-house 
below,  I  certainly  cared  not  to  climb  to  it,  particularly 
for  what  the  red  guide  book  promised  me  :  the 
"  magnificent  view  of  the  whole  sweep  of  the  plain 
extending  to  Tokio."  What  can  be  the  beauty  of 
the  "  whole  sweep  of  a  plain  "  ?  Such  also  was  the 
'  love  of  a  plain  displayed  in  speaking  of  the  Usui 
Pass,  where  you  behold  about  as  fine  a  hanging 
forest  all  the  way  through  as  is  to  be  seen,  I  should 
say,  in  any  part  of  the  world  ;  and  here  we  read  that 
"  although  the  Pass  is  thickly  wooded,*'  views  of  the 
'<  extensive  plain  below  "  can  be  caught.  This  seems 
to  me  to  be  a  strange  perversion  of  the  picture.  Who 
wants  to  see  a  plain,  instead  of  hanging  forests 
abounding  in  every  wealth  of  foliage  ? 

After  continuing  the  journey  with  all  the  variety 
of  pony,  cango,  and  foot,  and  just  onq  hour's  railway 
from  Karuizawa  to  Tanaka,  we  passed  over  the  Wada 
Toge,  seeing  a  large  lake  and  a  temple  by  its  shore. 
This  was  at  a  height  of  2500  feet.  By-and-by  we 
came  upon  the  Tenriugawa  itself,  and  crossed  a  wilder- 
ness of  boulders,  where  its  tributary,  the  Otangiri, 
flows  in,  backed  by  the  fine  snow  mountain,  Coman- 


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JAPAN.  293 

gataki.  But  this  was  not  where  I  was  to  take  boat. 
Various  spots  from  time  to  time  arrested  attention 
and  excited  admiration,  and  finally,  after  sleeping 
three  nights  on  the  road,  including  one  whole  wet 
day  passed  in  bed,  the  river-side  tea-house  at  the 
starting  point,  Tokimata,  was  reached  at  S  p.m.  on 
Wednesday,  the  28th  of  May.  Here  ray  aneroid 
marked  1300  feet. 

The  boatmen  were  of  course  immediately  sent  for, 
and  the  two  nece.ssary  questions  put.  It  was  the 
last  boat,  the  very  last  1  The  water  was  now  practi- 
cable, but  high.  It  had  been  very  high,  too  high,  of 
late  for  the  passage,  and  all  the  other  boats  were 
still  kept  down  below.  An  extra  fee  of  $4  being 
demanded,  $25  in  all,  I  naturally  closed  the  bargain, 
and  settling  that  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  we 
were  to  start,  I  dined  and  went  to  bed. 

In  the  middle  of  the  night,  however,  I  was  waked 
by  the  entrance  of  two  men  with  a  large  Japanese 
paper  lantern.  What  was  this  ?  but  the  vofce  of  my 
guide  immediately  explained  the  intrusion.  The 
head  boatman  was  ill,  and  another  must  be  sent  for, 
and  we  could  not  leave  before  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  sleeping  at  Siraoka  ;  so  to  sleep  I  went 
again,  quite  contented  with  my  next  morning's 
respite. 

By  two  o'clock  on  the  29th  the  afternoon  was  fine 
and  bright.  The  head  boatman  had  come,  Motero 
by  name,  and  we  made  our  start  for  Siraoka,  which 
we  were  to  reach  at  five,  and  many  villagers  gathered 
round  to  see  us  go.  We  were  but  a  few  minutes 
away  before  we  felt  the  run  of  the  stream.    The  river 


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294  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

is  again  larger  than  the  Fujikawa,  and  there  are  said 
to  be  thirty  rapids  in  its  course.  The  scener}',  as 
before,  began  at  once,  but  wilder  and  more  rocky  (as 
my  guide  had  told  me)  than  on  the  Fujikawa.  Yet 
there  was  always  foliage.  How  many  races  we 
passed  before  we  reached  Siraoka  I  know  not,  but  I 
remember  a  great  deal  of  rapping  and  rushing.  The 
style  of  the  rapids  is  exactly  like  that  in  the  other 
river,  and  we  swept  along  at  no  snail's  pace  to  our 
night's  sojourn,  making  an  awful  climb  to  the  tea- 
house. I  could  not  regret  the  interruption,  for  the 
evening's  bird's-eye  view  of  the  reverse  curve  of  the 
river  below,  winding  between  its  lofty  banks,  was  as 
fine  as  sunset  could  make  it.  At  night  (but  this  time 
before  I  went  to  bed)  Motero  came  with  my  guide 
to  ask  leave  to  put  two  more  hands  on  board  for  the 
morrow,  without  extra  charge,  as  the  stream  was 
running  very  strong,  and  to  this  I  naturally  very 
readily  assented. 

This  made  six  boatmen  on  board,  and  on  the  30th 
we  left  our  eyrie  tea-house  at  something  before  six 
o'clock  on  a  very  fine  morning.  For  about  two 
hours  and  a  half  we  were  passing  through  what  they 
call  the  "  grands,"  and  mighty  noisy  and  mighty  rude 
they  all  were,  none  so  rude,  however,  as  the  Chona, 
which  struck  us  with  some  sort  of  violence,  sousing 
me  and  flinging  me  off  my  raised  seat  into  the  boat, 
and  treating  the  guide  who  was  behind  in  even  a 
more  unruly  manner.  As  a  result  of  this  we  had  to 
pull  up  and  bale  out  the  water.  At  half-past  eight 
our  extra  boatmen  left  us.  From  first  to  last  the 
scenery  came  up  to  all  expectation.     Rocks  appecired 


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JAP  AX.  295 

from  time  to  time  of  romantic  shape,  not  towering 
up  into  naked  precipices,  but  only  standing  bodily 
out  from  the  upper  green  and  foliaged  mountains. 
Nor  was  it  without  much  surprise  that  I  almost 
always  saw  them  blushing  with  the  wild  pink  azalea, 
not  then  knowing,  what  I  afterwards  learned,  that 
that  delicate  plant  grows  in  dry  places,  and  that 
indeed  its  name  has  been  given  as  indicating  this 
disposition.  Though  the  "  grands  '*  had  passed,  some 
few  hours  yet  remained  of  beauty,  in  the  same 
alternation  of  lakes  and  rapids,  until  at  last  all  was 
over,  and  we  emerged  into  mere  flats,  and  found 
ourselves  at  the  Hamamatsu  Station  on  the  railway. 

Here  I  settled  everything  with  my  young  guide, 
and  gave  him,  as  he  deserved,  an  excellent  certificate. 
He  returned  to  Yoko,  and  I  went  down  to  Kobe.  I 
went  direct,  not  stopping  at  the  lake  Bivar,  partly 
because  the  weather  was  unpropitious  for  that  day, 
and  partly,  almost  mainly,  because  I  could  not 
gather,  either  from  photographs  or  report,  that  there 
was  any  specially  characteristic  scenery  to  be  found 
there.  I  was  very  glad  to  have  a  railway  to  take  mc 
to  Kobe,  and  I  was  very  glad  to  have  the  Oriental 
to  receive  me  when  I  got  there.  I  had  seen  the 
Fujikawa,  and  the  Tenriugawa,  and  I  shall  not 
readily  forget  either.  No  other  river  scenery  that  I 
ever  saw,  none  that  I  have  ever  looked  for,  approach 
the  beauty  and  the  grandeur  of  these  two  most 
enchanting  streams,  and  the  noisy  anger  of  the  close 
and  threatening  waters  emphasizes  the  excitement 
and  romance  of  the  adventure. 

Indeed,  besides  these  two   rivers  I  had  seen  a  great 


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296  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

deal  of  Japanese  scenery  and  of  the  people  as  I 
passed  through.  At  the  tea-houses  I  always  found 
everything  very  neat  and  clean,  and  indeed  almost 
too  much  so,  for  the  whole  of  the  arrangements 
are  drawing-room  arrangements.  You  are  supposed 
to  enter  spic  and  span  at  once  and  so  to  con<» 
tinue ;  on  stepping  on  to  the  raised  matted  open 
ground  floor,  you  must  take  off  your  shoes,  or  have 
them  carefully  brushed  and  wiped  before  you  tread 
within,  and  this  in  the  drjest  and  cleanest  weather ; 
and  when  you  have  mounted  the  ladder  to  go  up- 
stairs, you  find  only  your  trim  sitting-room.  A 
fdint  show  of  chair  and  table  is  being  now  introduced, 
but  when  the  bed  is  brought  in  it  consists  of  one 
or  more  good  full  mattresses  on  the  ground.  I 
always  carried  my  own  sheets  and  coverings,  and  was 
never  at  all  inconvenienced.  The  female  attendants 
are  always  extremely  attentive  and  polite,  with  the 
pleasant  peculiarity  of  Japanese  manners.  I  do  not 
call  the  girls  pretty,  but  they  are  very  picturesque. 
Their  dark  hair  is  singularly  well  arranged,  and 
always  looks  sleek  and  glossy,  standing  out  in  per- 
fect bows.  But  if  you  touch  it,  you  find  it  hard,  to 
which  quality  indeed  it  owes  its  admirable  form. 
The  cheeks  look  almost  painted,  and  the  teeth  are 
good,  unless,  indeed,  the  married  women's  black  ones. 
The  poets  talk  of  smiles  disclosing  pearls,  but  with 
the  smile  of  the  married  Japanese  you  are  more 
readily  put  in  mind  of  an  old  coffin  opening  to  show 
a  corpse. 

Where  Japan  most  suffers  by  her  European  spoil- 
ing is  in  the  change  of  the  costume.    The  Japanese 


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JAPAX.  297 

have  no  figures.  But  in  cases  where  they  have  now  to 
enter  on  active  work,  how  can  they  do  otherwise  than 
dress  accordingly  ?  I  found  this  same  necessary 
change  among  the  Arabs  in  Algeria  some  years  ago. 
The  difference  is  almost  magical.  At  one  tea-house 
a  servant  of  the  house  answered  my  clapping  of  my 
hands,  and  I  said  I  wanted  my  guide.  Presently 
another  person  came.  "No,"  I  said,  "my  guide." 
To  which  he  answered,  "  I  am  your  guide,"  and  so 
he  was.  He  had  dressed  himself  in  Japanese,  and  I 
did  not  know  him  again. 

That  was  why  I  declined  a  friendly  offer  to  take 
me  to  a  grand  ball  in  Tokio  given  by  the 
German  Minister.  I  declined,  saying,  "  You  will  find 
the  room  overcrowded  and  no  costumes  ;  all  will  be 
aping  the  European  style."  And  so  it  proved,  as  I 
learned  afterwards.  Look  at  the  people  about  the 
railways  and  in  the  post  office,  in  short  in  every 
official  position  ;  and  not  only  at  them,  but  their  wives 
and  children  also.  Look  at  that  woman  coming 
along  the  station  now,  she  is  disguised  in  necessary 
disfigurement ;  and  as  to  her  little  child  she  is  leading 
by  her  side,  he  is  a  mere  little  waddling  apple  dump- 
ling. But  go  out  into  the  country,  where  of  old  no 
stranger  dared  go,  and  you  can  ahvays  find  Japan 
enough,  and  see  what  of  old  none  ever  saw. 

When  I  passed  through  lida  and  stopped  to 
refresh  the  men,  the  tea-house  was  besieged  by  the 
whole  place,  as  it  seemed,  to  see  the  stranger. 
Young  and  old,  male  and  female,  crowded  round,  and 
partly  for  air  and  partly  for  diversion,  I  amused 
myself  by  throwing  coppers.     As  to  children,  they 


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298  WA.WDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

are  always  in  the  streets  in  numbers.  The  parents, 
I  was  told,  always  send  them  out ;  but  the  European 
pocket-handkerchief  does  not  come  with  them.  As 
to  the  general  character  of  the  people  socially,  intel- 
lectually, morally  and  everything  else,  as  I  was  only 
so  many  weeks  in  the  country  I  ought  of  course  to 
know  everything,  and  as  I  don't,  I  therefore  ought  to 
write  ;  but  what  ?  I  had  need  to  give  very  little  room 
for  testing  honesty,  nor  did  I  find  any  dishonesty  ;  but 
I  suppose  the  brain  that  is  so  undoubtedly  ingenious 
in  many  convenient  things,  may  very  readily  be 
ingenious  in  inconvenient  also. 

It  would  be  scarcely  fair  to  leave  speaking  of 
Japan  without  dedicating  at  all  events  one  special 
paragraph  to  her  one  great  mountain — Fuji  no 
Yama,  or  Fuji  Yama,  or  Fusi  Yama.  And  when 
you  mention  a  great  mountain,  the  first  next  thought 
is  the  ascension  of  it.  In  my  own  case  this  was 
quite  out  of  the  question,  because  I  was  in  Japan 
out  of  the  season  for  such  an  expedition.  But,  indcr 
pendently  of  this  point,  I  should  not  care  to  undertake 
it  for  two  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  the  mountain, 
as  a  mountain  pure  and  simple,  is  totally  unpic- 
turesque  ;  and  in  the  second  place,  it  is  the  only  one 
great  mountain  ;  so  that,  wholly  unlike  all  other 
mountain  ascents,  where  the  higher  you  rise  the  more 
is  surrounding  grandeur  developed,  you  would  here 
behold  nothing  of  that  character,  and  would  moreover 
dwarf  every  other  formerly  appreciated  eminence  that 
you  had  admired.  Fuji  Yama  is  a  noble  object  when 
seen  in  towering  combination  with  folding  foreground 
and  middle-distance  scenery  to  dress  his  snow-white 


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JAPAN.  299 

head  ;  but  seen  bare  and  alone  he  is  wholly  destitute 
of  the  picturesque,  though  he  still  may  assert  the 
wonderful.  In  this  opinion  I  think  many  must  con- 
cur, and  a  concurrent  one  of  real  value  I  can  claim  in 
that  of  my  friend  Mr.  John  Varley,  the  artist ;  allud- 
ing to  whom,  I  cannot  but  mention  his  Japanese  and 
Chinese  paintings  lately  exhibited  in  New  Bond 
Street.  How  he  can  have  managed,  by  the  way,  to 
paint  all  those  213  pictures  in  nine  months  may  be 
still  more  puzzling  to  artists  than  it  is  to  me ;  but  I 
specially  mention  them  to  note  how  he  has  in  Japan, 
as  he  did  in  Egypt,  caught  with  peculiar  felicity  the 
real  atmosphere  of  the  country.  I  speak  of  Egypt 
because  there  are  now  hanging  before  me  two  of  his 
water-colours  which  continually  recall  old  scenes ; 
my  joke  with  him  being  that  he  will  never  again  paint 
an  Arabian  desert  like  the  one  he  painted  for  me. 

In  now  quitting  Japan,  I  was  to  pass  again  through 
the  Inland  Sea,  and,  on  information  received,  I  de« 
termined  to  take  my  passage  back  to  Shanghai  by  a 
boat  of  the  Nippon  Usen  Kaisha,  or  "Japan  Mail 
Steam  Ship  Company  *' ;  because  that  company  run 
their  boats  not  only  through  the  best  part  of  the  sea, 
but  so  arrange  their  hours  as  to  show  everything  by 
daylight.  Accordingly  I  took  my  cabin  in  the 
Saikio  Maru,  Captain  Conner,  which  was  to  sail  on 
the  morning  of  Friday,  the  6th  of  June.  But  in  con- 
sequence of  some  delay  at  Yokohama  we  could  not 
get  away  till  the  afternoon.  When  I  went  down  the 
first  question  I  asked  was  whether  this  change 
altered  the  chance  of  seeing  the  scenery.  *'  I  am 
sorry  to  say/'  was  the  reply,  "  we  shall  this  time  go 


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300  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/NGS. 

through  the  best  part  of  it  in  the  dark."  Was  I  to  be 
baulked  again  ?  Could  anything  be  more  provoking  ? 
What  was  to  be  done,  but  get  on  board  and  go? 
And  this  I  did,  revelling  discontentedly  in  the  finest 
cabin  I  ever  slept  in.     These  boats  are  really  splendid. 

A  cure,  however,  came  where  I  had  least  expected 
it  The  afternoon  and  night  were  miserably  wet, 
and  this  fact,  which  in  general  is  a  curse,  for  me  was 
now  a  blessing,  for  it  was  succeeded  by  a  heavy  fog 
at  sea  ;  and  in  consequence  of  this  fog  we  had  to 
cast  anchor  and  wait  some  hours  before  it  all  cleared 
off.  By.  this  happy  interruption  we  were  thrown 
back  in  time  again,  so  that  we  did  not  reach  the  "  best 
part "  till  very  early  dawn  instead  of  getting  through 
in  the  dark.  At  five  o^cIock,  therefore,  I  was  on  deck 
and  witnessed  all  the  choicest  pictures.  Not  only  so, 
but  I  had  the  benefit  of  the  growing  light  and  the 
early  morning  ray.  Nothing  could  be  more  beauti- 
ful to  behold.  There  was  lake  scenery  of  the  finest 
kind,  and  you  looked  through  and  through  some  of 
the  small  islands  on  to  others.  On  shore  there  were 
waving  high-pitched  fields  of  ripe  barley,  villages 
and  clustering  forests,  and  the  soil  and  the  rocks  were 
russet  against  the  blue  water.  Then  there  was  the 
early  hour  and  the  horizontal  sunbeam.  O  ye,  who 
love  the  landscape  charms  that  Nature  has  to  show, 
worship  the  morning  and  the  evening  in  their  rays 
and  shadows,  and  leave  the  garish  noon  to  worship  its 
own  self: 

So  we  came  through  the  Inland  Sea  this  time  ;  and 
by  touching  at  Shimonosaki  and  also  at  Nagasaki  we 
enjoyed  what  the   French  steamer    Yang  Tse  had 


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JAPAN.  301 

given  us  no  chance  of  beholding.  On  Tuesday,  the 
10th,  the  yellow  waters,  yellow  enough  to  pass  for 
the  Yellow  Sea,  proved  we  were  approaching  Woo- 
sung  and  the  Whangpoo,  and  in  the  evening  I  was  at 
the  Astor  House  again. 


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XXVII. 

I  HAD  now  two  grand  excursions  in  view.  One  that 
I  had  long  thought  of,  and  for  which  Mr.  Needham 
Wilson  had  sharpened  my  desire,  was  to  mount  the 
Yang-tse-kiang  and  see  the  Chinese  Gorges  com- 
mencing above  Ichang ;  this  same  station  lying  a 
thousand  miles  (or,  strictly  speaking,  966)  above 
Shanghai.  The  other  excursion  was  a  highly 
interesting  one ;  viz.,  to  Peking,  the  name  of  which 
city,  as  well  as  that  of  Nanking,  I  steadfastly  refuse 
to  deform  by  robbing  it  of  its  legitimate  G.  Thus 
indeed  do  all  educated  Englishmen  in  China  spell 
it;  the  Chinese  word  Pih-king  signifying  Northern 
Capital,  as  Nan-king  means  the  Southern. 

This  latter  adventure  I  had  not  calculated  on  when 
I  left  London,  nor  had  I  thought  of  it  until  at  Singa- 
pore, where  I  had  received  a  letter  from  my  friend, 
Mr.  Stephen  Busk,  enclosing  an  introduction  to  Sir 
Robert  Hart  from  my  friend,  Mr.  Gerard  Lodcr, 
the  member  for  Brighton.  The  letter,  however, 
awakened  all  my  curiosity  of  travel,  and  I  forthwith 
enclosed  it  to  Sir  Robert,  waiting  his  reply.  This 
came  in  due  course,  inviting  me  to  come  and  stay 
with  him.  But,  as  the  season  at  Peking  is  not  to  be 
played  with,  he  took  care  to  caution  me  not  to 
appear  before  the  middle  of  September.  I  had 
therefore  plenty  of  time  on  hand  so  far  as  Peking 


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SHANGHAI.  303 

was  concerned.  Then  what  of  the  gorges  ?  Here, 
also,  it  was  too  soon  to  think  of  such  a  journey,  for 
though  the  steamers  go  to  Ichang  in  June,  it  is 
quite  impossible  for  small  boats  to  resist  the  enor- 
mous flow  of  water  that  pours  down  the  river  in  that 
month.  And  to  get  to  the  upper  end  of  the  gorges 
you  must  gj  up  stream  ;  you  cannot  go  by  land,  and 
then  come  down  as  yuu  can  in  Japan.  All  this 
Captain  Holmes  explained  to  me,  who  came  in 
while  I  was  lunching  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Robert 
Little,  and  I  naturally  acted  on  his  advice  to  defer 
the  attempt  till  October.  Nothing  could  have  been 
more  opportune  than  this  delay,  thus  forced  on  me, 
as  time  wi*]  show.  But  what  was  to  be  done  mean- 
while ?  The  Club  at  Shanghai  was  pleasant  enough, 
and  my  hotel  was  pleasant  enough,  but  to  remain 
lounging  in  Shanghai,  waiting  so  long,  was  impossi- 
ble. Besides  which,  cholera  had  begun  to  appear, 
so  I  determined  to  gratify  an  old  schoolboy  curiosity, 
of  somewhat  less  than  a  hundred  years  ago,  and  get  a 
sight  of  the  Island  of  Formosa  ;  the  name  of  which 
had  always  excited  my  imagination.  The  port  for 
Formosa  is  Amoy,  where  a  large  trade  with  the 
island  goes  on ;  and  accordingly  I  took  a  cabin,  but 
only  to  Foochow  to  begin  with,  on  the  chance  of 
seeing  certain  beautiful  river  scenery  there,  on .  my 
way. 

The  firm  of  Butterfield  and  Swire  were  again  my 
friends,  and  after  dining  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bois,  he 
was  good  enough  to  come  and  see  me  into  the 
launch  the  next  night  for  their  steamer,  the  MenelauSy 
Captain  Nelson, "  blue  funnel."     He  also  gave  me  a 


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304  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

letter  to  Mr.  Martin  of  their  firm,  which  eventually 
bore  fruits  of  happy  advantage  in  New  Zealand. 

Wc  arrived  at  Foochow,  the  beautiful  approach  to 
which  surpasses,  that  of  Amoy,  on  the  i6th  of 
June,  and  I  immediately  called  on  Mr.  Martin,  who 
introduced  me  at  once  to  Mr.  Pimm,  to  whom 
Mr.  Graham,  of  the  Nippon  Usen  Kaisha,  an 
old  fellow-passenger,  had  given  me  a  letter ;  for 
Mr.  Pimm  was  the  authority  for  the  river  ex- 
cursion. But  I  was  out  of  season  here  :  the 
weather  was  far  too  hot,  and  so  was  business.  The 
fact  is,  if  you  are  to  do  everj'thing  you  must  waste 
a  great  deal  of  time,  and  if  the  one  season  suits  two 
places  together,  the  seeing  both  must  involve  twelve 
months.  All  you  can  do  is  to  do  all  you  can. 
*•  Come  back  in  October,"  they  said,  but  in  October 
I  was  in  the  gorges.  So  with  Mr.  Martin's  help,  I 
took  my  cabin  to  Amoy,  and,  most  happily  for  me, 
took  his  future  address  at  Melbourne,  whiiher  he 
was  on  the  point  of  departing.  The  short  amuse- 
ment of  Foochow,  therefore,  was  to  lunch  with  Mr. 
Martin,  and  to  marvel  at  ihe  rapidity  of  the  process 
of  the  tea-tasting,  for  the  spoon  is  run  through  a  dozen 
samples  in  a  shorter  time  than  an  uninitiated  person 
would  require  to  fully  analyze  one.  That  same 
evening  I  sailed  in  the  Douglas  S.S.  Co.  Haitan^ 
Captain  Ashton,  for  Amoy,  arriving  on  the  morning 
of  the  1 8th. 

Here  I  called  with  my  letter  upon  Mr.  C.  S. 
Powell,  and  declared  my  intention  of  going  to 
Formosa.  But  here  there  was  an  interruption  again, 
for  what  with  holidays  and  some  irregularity  in  the 


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MANILA.  305 

boats,  I  was  likely  to  lose  several  days  doing 
nothing.  So  I  sat  down  to  lunch  gloomily.  **This 
is  vexatious,"  I  said,  "  for  I  have  to  dovetail  all  my 
movements.  Are  you  sure  there  is  no  boat  going  ? 
There's  a  blue  peter  flying  now."  "  Oh  !  that's  no- 
thing ;  that's  going  to  Manila."  "  To  Manila?  How 
far  is  that  ? "  "  Two  and  a  half  days  or  three." 
"  Then  why  should  I  not  go  there  and  come  back  to 
fill  up  time  }'^  "  That  you  can  do  if  there's  time  to 
get  passport  and  ticket  too.''  So  I  did  not  delay, 
but  sped  to  the  Spanish  Consul  for  my  passport,  I 
found  him  rather  out  of  sorts  about  it,  as  I  was  so 
late,  and  fearing  that  he  might  refuse  altogether,  I 
introduced  a  word  or  two  gf  Spanish.  This  saved  mc. 
The  clouds  cleared  off  and  I  went  on  board  the  China 
and  Manila  S.S.  Company's  Diajnante^  Captain 
Taylor.  We  came  out  by  a  different  route  from  the 
one  we  entered  by.  This  depended  on  the  tide. 
And  it  may  well  be  so,  for  so  remarkable  an  ex- 
hibition of  a  rocky  entrance  I  have  never  anywhere 
else  seen.  To  the  view  it  is  complicated  in  the  ex- 
treme, but  the  passage  seems  clear.  Accordingly,  we 
steamed  all  round,  as  the  expression  was,  and  went 
out  to  sea.  Between  four  and  five  on  the  21st  of 
June  we  were  at  Manila.  The  fine  mountainous  and 
wooded  island  of  Luson  looked  well  as  we  approached 
it  in  the  evening  sun,  but  the  landing  was  flat.  The 
town  itself  seemed  all  more  or  less  littery,  and  the 
hotel  with  its  dinner  table  was  very  much  so.  But  on 
the  following  morning  I  found  Mr.  Wood  at  the  club, 
Iwo  miles  off,  at  San  Miguel,  where  he  gave  me  a 
resting  place.     In  the  evening  we  drove  to  the  Praia 

X 


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306  VVAXDERINGS  AXD    IVONDERIXGS. 

ofLunetta.  It  was  on  a  Sunday,  and  the  picture 
was  thoroughly  Spanish,  both  as  to  crowds  and 
colouring.  Two  military  bands  were  in  full  play  at 
diflferent  points,  and  carriages  and  horses  of  all  kinds 
and  degrees  were  moving  to  and  fro.  On  the  following 
day  Mr.  Wood  drove  me  through  the  town,  and  we 
visited  the  immense  cigar  manufactory,  also  the 
ruins  of  the  old  residence  of  the  Governor,  destroyed 
by  the  earthquake  of  1863,  and  suggesting  in  ruin, 
I  am  sure,  a  far  higher  character  and  greater  volume 
of  architecture  than  when  perfect  it  could  have  dis- 
played. Then  we  took  a  turn  in  the  switchback 
railway — montanas  Russas — going  home  to  dinner  at 
the  club. 

It  was  now  Tuesday,  the  24th,  and  the  return  boat 
was  to  leave  on  the  30th.  It  was  therefore  proposed 
that  I  might  visit  the  lakes  and  the  river  beyond,  in 
company  with  Mr.  Wood's  cousin,  Mr.  R.  Wood. 
This  we  did,  but  the  weather  was  not  propitious,  nor, 
if  it  had  been  so,  do  I  fancy  I  should  have  found 
anything  to  justify  what  was  represented  to  me  on 
board.  The  scene  painter  always  exaggerates.  The 
narrow  river,  so  far  as  we  could  ascend  it,  was 
charming,  with  its  thickly  clothed  perpendicular 
mountainous  banks,  from  the  heights  of  which 
monkeys  are  accused  of  throwing  stones  down  upon 
boats.  But  our  course  was  very  short  indeed,  and 
even  so,  the  boatman  had  to  get  out  several  times. 
It  was  a  bit  of  a  scramble  from  first  to  last,  but  it  was 
an  excursion  for  both  of  us,  and — was  in  the  island  of 
Luson. 

I  now  learned,  to  my  surprise  and  disappointment. 


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FORMOSA.  307 

that  we  could  not  return  to  Amoy  d.'rect,  but  must 
touch  at  Hongkong  on  our  way  thither.  This  was 
the  trading  course,  and  the  steamers  are  of  course 
trading  steamers.  It  was  not  therefore  till  the  8th 
of  July  that  I  found  myself  again  at  Amoy,  and  bid 
good-bye  to  Captain  Cobban  and  the  Zafiro,  Mr. 
Powell  was  ready  to  receive  me,  and  sent  his  gig  to 
take  me  across  the  water  to  the  island  of  Koolangsoo, 
where  he  was  living  in  a  fine  airy  house  on  the 
borders  of  one  of  the  sweetest  bays  I  ever  saw.  And 
there  I  enjoyed  his  hospitality  until  Saturday,  the 
1 2th,  when  he  took  me  on  board  the  Formosa^ 
Captain  Hall,  ready  to  go  to  Formosa. 

The  passage  was  not  long  nor  violent.  At  early 
morning  on  the  following  day  we  sighted  the  high 
range  of  mountains,  with  snow  upon  the  highest, 
that  form  the  backbone  of  the  island,  and  making  for 
the  land  direct,  ran  up  the  pleasant  coast,  mountain 
and  vale  in  view,  for  some  forty  miles  to  Hobie, 
Tamsui.  Thence  I  was  to  find  my  way  to  Mr.  Best, 
Mr.  Powell's  partner,  at  the  town  of  Twatutia,  and 
this  lay  some  two  hours  by  steam  launch  up  the  wide 
and  winding  river  Tamsui,  adorned  on  both  sides 
with  cultivated  slopes,  varied  with  green  folding 
mountains.  The  launch  was  ready,  and  the  captain 
accompanied  us.  Twatutia  itself  is  flat  and  ugly ; 
one  would  not  expect  a  spic-and-span  city  in  those 
districts,  nor  is  it  found.  But  Mr.  Best's  welcome 
was  very  pleasant. 

There  is  a  railway  even  here,  but  it  is  still  quite  in 
its  infancy.  It  runs  through  rice  fields,  crossing  the 
river  with  a  handsome  wooden  bridge.  Of  rice 
X  2 


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308  \VANDERL\GS  AXD    WONDERIXGS. 

grounds  there  is  a  vast  extent,  Formosa  rice  being  of 
excellent  quality.  This  fact  points  more  to  fertility 
than  beauty.  To  this  must  be  added  the  cultivation  of 
a  special  kind  of  tea,  nearly  the  whole  produce  of  which 
goes  to  San  Francisco.  The  Latin-sounding  name 
was  given  by  the  Portuguese,  and  the  word  is  really 
Portuguese.  The  original  name  of  the  island  is  Tai 
Wan,  which  means  *'  terraced  beaches  "  or  "  terraced 
bays,"  and  of  these  we  saw  several  on  our  passage 
up  the  coast.    There  is  also  a  town  of  that  name. 

Mr.  Best  took  me  a  journey  to  see  the  savages,  as 
they  are  called.  They  come  down  to  a  village  called 
Kutchu,  out  of  the  range  of  mountains,  where  they 
live  in  clans  in  almost  pathless  forests.  They  are 
very  friendly  towards  Europeans,  but  are  deadly  foes 
of  the  Chinese.  Indeed  it  is  said  that  the  price  for 
a  daughter  in  marriage  is  so  many  Chinese  heads. 
We  made  p.  long  day  of  our  excursion  in  chairs  ;  but 
I  found  the  bamboo  poles  (as  I  had  been  warned) 
very  stiff  and  jerky.  Our  point  was  Sintiam,  where 
we  breakfasted,  close  to  a  missionary  chapel, 
and  the  whole  of  this  course  was  through  rice  fields 
of  the  usual  niud  and  slush.  There  we  crossed  the 
river  in  a  ferry  boat,  and  mounting  a  high  crest  on 
our  way  we  came  down  on  the  other  side,  and 
finally  reached  Kutchu.  But  we  were  most  un« 
fortunate  as  regards  the  savages,  for  only  one 
appeared,  and  he  was  not  quite  taken  as  a  thorough- 
bred, except  by  the  fact  that  he  did  not  understand 
money.  Very  savage  indeed !  In  returning  home 
we  came  down  the  river  through  some  gentle  rapids, 
and  the  scenery  was  fair.     From  the  twisting  of  the 


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FOR. \f OS  A.  309 

Stream  it  took  us  two  hours  to  get  to  Sintiam,  and 
thence  we  repeated  the  stiff  bamboos  till  home. 

It  was  well  for  us  that  we  thus  chose  our  day,  for 
the  next  would  have  been  quite  impossible,  and 
must  have  made  many  succeeding  ones  equally  so. 
One  or  two  of  the  men  had  talked  suspiciously  of  the 
sky,  and  in  truth  we  were  soon  really  assailed  by  a 
typhoon.  All  night  long  there  was  a  furious  pour 
of  rain,  and  we  got  out  of  bed  in  the  morning  with  a 
high  wind  added,  to  attend  us  in  our  toilet.  Pre- 
sently Mr.  Best  came  into  my  room  to  say  that  his 
barometer  had  suddenly  fallen  alarmingly  ;  and  very 
soon  afterwards  the  real  war  began.  Still  the  glass  fell, 
and  still  the  storm  increased.  It  was  a  real  typhoon, 
but  we  fortunately  were  on  shore,  and  were  not  near 
the  centre,  nor  did  this  move  at  all  near  us  ;  that  was 
Mr.  Best's  experienced  report.  But  rain  and  wind 
were  eccentrically  mad  enough  ;  the  whole  place  was 
rushing  with  water ;  trees  were  torn  and  twisted  and 
the  house  quivered.  At  length  the  glass  rebounded  ; 
"  now  the  worst  is  passed/*  said  Mr.  Best ;  "  the  glass 
never  goes  back  again."  And  so,  in  effect,  it  proved  ; 
for  all  at  length  grew  calmer  by  degrees,  and  night 
was  tranquil. 

Before  leaving  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Mr. 
Wilson,  the  engineer  of  the  railway,  at  dinner ;  and 
also  of  dining  and  lunching  with  Mr.  Hutchison, 
formerly  resident  in  Korea,  who  gave  me  valuable 
letters  for  that  somewhat  remote  country,  whither  I 
was  going.  And  on  the  morning  of  the  21st  of  July 
I  left  Twatutia  by  the  steam  launch  to  join  the 
Hailoongf  Captain  Goddard,  for  Amoy  again.     The 


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3IO  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERIXGS, 

last  event  I  witnessed  at  Twatutia  was  not  felicitous. 
We  had  had  wind  and  rain,  now  we  had  fire.  Just 
as  I  was  leaving  the  cry  was  raised,  and  in  the 
distance  there  arose  a  wide  and  almost  quite  sudden 
mass  of  pure  flames.  They  shone  forth  furiously, 
though  the  air  was  bright  enough  to  deaden  many  a 
glare  ;  and  this  was  the  distressing  feature  of  the 
catastrophe ;  the  conflagration  had  taken  place  amidst 
the  mere  thatched  bandbox  dwellings  of  the  crowded 
poor,  and  the  greedy  flames  must  surely  have 
swallowed  life. 

Our  passage  to  Amoy  was  uneventful.  We 
rounded  the  island  of  Koulangsoo  about  noon 
on  the  23rd  of  July,  and  after  again  enjoying  all 
the  strange  rocky  scenery  of  the  bay,  I  found  myself 
domiciled  once  more  with  Mr.  Powell  in  his  charming 
home.  Here  there  was  interchange  of  hospitalities, 
and  information  as  to  future  plans  obtained  ;  and  I 
remember  with  pleasure,  besides  my  good  host,  Mr. 
Cass,  Mr.  Leyburn,  Mr.  Bruce,  and  Mr.  Gettens.  I 
was  to  have  gone  by  the  Shanghai  steamer,  but  at 
the  last  moment  was  advised  to  change  for  the 
Canadian  Pacific's  larger  vessel,  the  Parthia,  The 
obvious  advantage  in  doing  this  was  the  getting  a 
more  commodious  passage  ;  but  the  latent  disadvan- 
tage was,  that  when  we  *  came  to  Woosung  it  was 
found  we  were  drawing  too  deep  to  pass  the 
bar.  Meanwhile,  my  discarded  humbler  coaster  had 
gallantly  steamed  up  unhindered ;  and  it  was  only 
at  night  that  the  steam  launch  took  me  on  board, 
from  my  prouder,  to  sup  and  to  go  to  bed  at  the  Astor 
House  on  the  23rd  of  July, 


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XXVIII. 

As  I  was  now  at  Shanghai  again  and  quite  at  the 
end  of  July,  I  began  •  to  think  seriously  of  my 
intended  visit  to  Peking ;  and  as  a  first  step  called 
on  Mr.  Graham  at  the  Nippon  Usen  Kaisha  to  con- 
sult him.  The  course  open  to  me  was  to  go  to 
Nagasaki,  and  there  wait  a  day  or  two,  and  take 
their  boat  to  Chemulpo,  Korea.  By  the  best  rough 
calculation  I  could  make  I  found  I  ought  to  leave 
Shanghai  on  the  9th  of  August.  Taking  into 
account  Nagasaki,  Korea,  and  Tientsin,  I  judged 
that  I  should  arrive  in  Peking  within  the  first  fort- 
night of  September,  which  would  fairly  square  with 
Sir  Robert  Hart's  advice ;  and  therefore  I  followed 
Mr.  Graham's  suggestion,  and  took  the  ticket. 

During  my  remaining  days  at  Shanghai  I  had  the 
honour  of  calling  on  our  Consul-Genergil,  Mr.  Hughes, 
and  lunching  with  him  and  Mrs.  Hughes  on  the 
following  day,  where  I  met  General  Jones,  the 
American  Consul  at  Chin-Kiang,  the  first  station  on 
the  river,  who  recalled  a  good  deal  of  what  I  had 
seen  and  heard  in  Mexico,  where  he  had  resided, 
including  the  fate  of  General  Lopez.  Having  also 
called  on  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Marshall,  I  lunched  with 
them  and  obtained  a  valuable  letter  of  introduction 
to  Mr.  Walter  Hillier,  our  Consul-General  at  Sdoul. 


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312  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

Then,  again,  the  same  intercourse  occurred  with 
Mr.  Commissioner  Bredon,  Sir  Robert  Hart's  brother- 
in-law,  who  also  sped  me  on  my  way.  So  bidding 
all  good-bye,  till  my  return  to  ascend  the  mighty 
river,  I  went  on  board,  as  I  was  bid,  on  Friday  night, 
the  8th  of  August,  and  found  to  my  satisfaction  that 
I  was  to  be  with  Captain  Conner  again  sailing  on  the 
Saikio  Maru,  It  so  happened,  however,  that  this 
was  some  holiday  time,  and  certain  return-ticket  folk 
were  on  board  ;  and  as  we  were  not  to  sail  till  early 
morning,  the  captain  was  not  to  be  on  board  till  then. 
The  consequence  was  that  during  the  night  the  usual 
form  of  English  holiday-making  among  a  certain 
class  was  kept  up,  and  under  their  auspices  the 
Saikio  Maru  became  a  first- rate  specimen  of  a  night 
pot-house. 

We  had  a  glittering  sea  passage  all  the  way  to  Na- 
gasaki,  during  which  Captain  Conner  told  me,  what 
out  of  gratitude  to  fate  I  cannot  but  record,  that  two 
friends  of  his  had  gone  all  the  way  to  Tokimata  for  a 
passage  down  the  Tenriugawa,  and  had  been  obliged 
to  return  disappointed.  Truly  they  who  would 
make  that  excursion  ought  to  pave  the  way  before- 
hand.  In  this  case  the  rain  was  the  enemy ;  the 
river  would  have  been  too  high  for  too  long  a  time  to 
wait.     Remember  the  boats  also. 

The  only  decent  hotel  at  Nagasaki  is  the  Belle 
Vue,  which  is  very  well  conducted  and  beautifully 
situated  on  a  well  clothed  eminence.  The  bad  posi- 
tion of  the  other,  to  say  no  more  of  it,  is  quite  against 
it.  I  changed  from  this  to  the  former,  and  will  at  all 
events  give  the  gentle  landlord  credit  for  Christian 


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NAGASAKI.  313 

candour  when  he  growled  out,  "  You  are  welcome  to 
go  if  you  choose." 

I  had  two  days  at  Nagasaki — one  wet  and  one  fine. 
On  the  latter  I  made  one  of  the  short  excursions 
there  with  a  young  American^  whose  father  had 
married  a  Japanese  lady ;  and  if  I  were  ever  to 
go  to  Japan  again,  I  should  confine  myself  to  the 
Inland  Sea  as  far  as  Kobe  and  to  Nagasaki.  The 
undoubtedly  attractive  scenery  in  these  quarters 
might  well  satisfy  many.  Kioto,  and  the  river  there, 
might  be  added,  and  much  of  Japanese  special 
scenery  thus  be  realized. 

The  Owari  Maru,  Captain  Jones,  was  to  arrive 
that  evening,  and  sail  on  the  14th,  at  8  o'clock 
in  the  morning  for  Chemulpo,  Korea,  for  which 
port  I  was  to  take  my  ticket,  arranging  one  for 
Tientsin  afterwards.  All  therefore  was  put  in  order 
with  Mr.  Duus,  the  Agent,  and  on  a  very  fine 
morning  I  left  the  charming  Belle  Vue  Hotel, 
and  went  on  board  with  this  quite  new  country 
now  in  view,  thus  commencing  an  excursion  which 
formed  one  of  the  most  pleasing  chapters,  and  cer- 
tainly the  most  novel,  in  all  my  varied  wanderings. 
Captain  Jones  was  a  genial  captain  ;  in  former  times 
that  might  have  required  a  note  or  two  of  admiration, 
but  instead  of  putting  any  at  all,  I  will  add  the  same 
character  to  the  weather. 

Over  this  line  of  ocean  there  is  much  to  engage 
the  eye ;  much,  in  short,  that  is  far  more  pleasant  to 
the  passenger  than  to  the  navigator.  However 
picturesque  a  rock  may  be,  the  captain  hates  it,  nor 
is  the  passenger  often  fond  of  it,  unless  it  be  pic- 


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314  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

tnresque  and  his  captain  be  a  good  one.  And  what 
of  the  fogs  that  far  too  often  hang  about  these  regions  ? 
I  well  remember  my  crossing  one  fine  morning,  now 
many  years  ago,  from  Holyhead  to  Dublin.  On 
approaching  Dublin  a  glorious  bank  of  cloud,  with 
full  sunshine  making  a  very  striking  picture  of  it,  lay 
upon  the  ocean  far  before  us.  '*  What  a  splendiJ 
sight ! "  in  my  ignorance  I  exclaimed.  *'  Splendid  ! " 
cried  the  captain,  half  in  pity,  but  with  natural  irri- 
tation, "  if  you  knew  a  little  more  you'd  know  it's 
about  the  blessedest  ugliest  sight  a  man  could  see." 
And  on  entering  it  so  it  proved.  A  dreary  mass  of 
fog  and  the  howling  fog-bell  echoing  through  it  from 
the  pier  welcomed  us  into  Dublin  Bay. 

But  for  us,  on  our  way  to  Korea,  the  fogs  were 
absent,  and  the  captain  joyous  ;  nor  was  he  angry 
with  me  for  admiring  his  varied  and  variegated 
enemies.  We  touched  at  pretty  Fukie,  on  the  Gotto 
Island,  all  of  which  I  appreciated  from  on  board,  in 
the  perspective,  as  it  is  often  best  to  do.  Then 
through  green  rocks  we  came  at  night  to  Itsuhdra, 
on  the  Island  of  Tsushima.  On  Friday,  the  isth  of 
August,  we  sailed  to  Fusan  ;  and  on  Saturday,  the 
1 6th,  we  were  engaged  all  day  long  in  taking  in  cargo. 
But  what  sort  of  cargo }  Well,  I  have  had  my 
wonder  excited  in  Norway  by  downright  cairns  of 
dried  fish.  But  in  this  respect  Norway  must  yield  to 
Fusan  here.  The  bundles  were  a  sight  to  see  ;  and 
the  nose  was  not  much  less  astonished  than  the  eyes. 
Till  9  p.m.  we  were  thus  employed,  and  then  we 
sailed  for  the  port  of  Chemulpo,  my  rocky  friends, 
and  the  remarkable  "  Two  Mountain   Island  "  con- 


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KOREA.  3 1  S 

spicuously  so,  adorning  our  course  through  what  I 
might  call  a  Korean  archipelago.  On  Monday,  the 
1 8th  of  August,  about  3  p.m.,  we  arrived  at  Chemulpo. 
Some  time  before  so  doing  Captain  Jones  had 
pointed  out  to  me  the  naked  shining  roofs  upon  a 
slope  ;  and  the  general  outline  of  the  land  gave  plea- 
sant evidence  that  the  country  was  hilly,  and  indeed 
mountainous.  Korea  is,  for  Europeans,  a  very  young 
country,  and  the  sight  could  not  be  expected  to 
astonish.  The  tide  was  low  when  we  arrived  ;  it 
recedes  extensively  at  Chemulpo  ;  and  moreover  it 
was  the  moment  of  spring  tide.  We  anchored  at 
some  little  distance  from  the  shore,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Hulbert  of  S^oul  kindly  proposed  to  me  to  share  their 
sampan  to  get  to  land.  So  with  the  usual  mingling 
of  regret  and  satisfaction  I  bid  a  "  sans  adieux  '*  to 
Captain  Jones. 

Scrambling  out  of  the  sampan,  I  was  recommended 
to  a  two-storied  red-brick  house,  standing  with  a  sort 
of  naked  tyrannical  appearance  among  the  lesser 
subject  surroundings,  on  entering  which  I  found  the 
inside  looking  about  as  naked  as  the  out. 

The  name  of  the  proprietor  is  portentous.  He  is  a 
Japanese,  and  calls  himself  and  his  hotel  by  the  name 
of  the  great  Buddha  at  Kamakura — Diabotzu  !  But 
this  had  not  .saved  him  from  mortal  infirmities.  He 
was  ill  in  bed,  and  the  sons  and  boys  were  the  sup- 
posed directors.  Which  was  which  I  did  not  know, 
and  I  am  not  quite  sure  that  they  did. 

In  this  state  of  confusion  I  consulted  my  letters  of 
introduction,  and  went  to  call  on  Mr.  Townsend,  who 
received  me  very  kindly  and  told  me  where  I  could 


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3l6  WANDERINGS,  AND    l\  ONDERINGS. 

find  the  Consul-General,  Mr.  Hillier,  for  whom  (as  I 
have  said)  I  had  brought  a  letter  from  Mr.  Marshall 
of  Shanghai,  the  Director  of  Public  Works.  In  a 
very  pleasant  interview  with  this  gentleman  he  sug- 
gested that  we  should  go  together  to  Seoul  the  next 
day  on  horseback,  and  on  my  showing  him  a  letter 
for  Mr.  Schoenicke,  Acting  Chief  Commissioner  of 
Customs  in  that  city,  given  me  by  Mr.  Hutchison  at 
Formosa,  he  very  kindly  telegraphed  to  that  gentle- 
man that  I  had  arrived. 

Having  managed  to  get  through  the  night  at  the 
hotel,  the  morning  brought  Mr.  Hillier  and  his  two 
ponies,  and  I  mounted  a  white  one.  But  the  other 
would  not  let  Mr.  Hillier  mount,  and  after  a  long 
fight  and  a  long  walk,  and  several  ineffectual  attempts 
to  enforce  obedience,  we  were  obliged  to  return.  I 
am  particular  about  this  because  of  the  subsequent 
amusing  incident  that  it  gave  rise  to. 

On  getting  back  to  the  hotel,  Mr.  Hillier  suggested 
that  I  should  at  once  order  a  chair,  but  that  I 
should  not  start  unless  I  could  get  away  well  before 
eleven  o'clock,  or  I  might  find  the  city  gates  shut  at 
S^oiil.  This  I  made  the  hotel  non-directory  under- 
stand, and  at  twenty  minutes  to  eleven  we  started. 
The  men  jogged  along  very  merrily  through  the  long 
street. until  they  came  to  a  turning  point;  and  then 
they  suddenly  set  down  the  chair  and  began  to 
chatter  at  me :  a  tolerably  perplexing  situation. 
Only  with  gestures  could  I  answer  them,  which  they 
contemptuously  disregarded,  alid  finally  set  them- 
selves down  in  a  group  upon  some  boulders.  On 
this,  I  got  out  of  the  chair  and  began  to  walk  back  to 


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KOREA,  317 

the  hotel,  when  I  was  met  by  the  proprietor  of  a  hotel 
on  the  road,  an  Austrian,  whose  name  I  regret  I 
cannot  recall,  who  very  kindly  offered  to  speak  to  the 
men,  as  he  saw  I  was  in  difficulties  with  them*  So  we 
went  back,  and  as  far  as  he  could  make  things  out, 
their  rebellion  had  arisen  because  they  had  not  been 
paid  half  their  money  at  the  hotel.  "  But  I  knew 
nothing  of  these  rules,"  I  said,  "  and  my  money  is 
with  my  servant  on  ahead."  My  friend  in  need 
then  offered  to  advance  the  required  sum,  but  time 
had  been  lost,  the  gates  might  be  shut,  and  the  men 
were  a  doubtful  lot,  so  that  I  relinquished  the 
journey  and  ordered  them  back  to  the  hotel. 

On  arriving  there  I  called  the  *'  people  "  to  account, 
and  one  of  them  went  to  upbraid  the  men,  but  on 
coming  back  told  me  another  story — that  the  men 
found  the  hotel  chair  too  heavy,  and  would  not  carry 
it  This  decided  me  to  dismiss  them  altogether* 
which  I  did  in  a  sufficiently  emphatic  manner,  not- 
withstanding their  evident  desire  to  make  terms. 
To  Mr.  Hillier  I  therefore  again  had  recourse,  who 
at  once  undertook  that  his  "  boy "  should  set  all 
things  in  order  for  me  for  the  next  day;  and  after 
dining  with  him  and  getting  through  the  night  as 
best  I  could,  he  and  I,  he  on  his  white  pony  and  I 
with  excellent  coolies  and  a  good  chair,  found  our 
way  on  the  20th  of  August  to  Seoul. 

Mr.  Johnston,  the  Acting  Commissioner  of  Customs 
at  Chemulpo,  had.  paid  me  a  very  friendly  call  on 
hearing  of  my  misadventure,  offered  me  any  assistance 
1  might  require,  and  pledged  m6;  on  my  return  from 
Stoul,  not  to  come  merely  the .  day  before  the  boat 


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3l8  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

for  Tientsin  sailed,  but  to  give  Mrs.  Johnston  and 
himself  the  pleasure  of  entertaining  me  for  a  few 
nights — an  invitation  afterwards  confirmed  by  Mrs. 
Johnston,  who  jocosely  and  wittily  thanked  me  for 
having  "  given  them  something  to  talk  about ! "  My 
journey  to  the  capital — the  word  S^oul,  I  am  told, 
signifies  capital  —  represents  the  extent  of  my  incursion 
into  Korea.  The  distance  from  point  to  point  is 
about  twenty-six  English  miles,  and  the  coolies,  two 
sets  of  four  each,  accomplished  the  course  in  about 
eight  hours  to  the  banks  of  the  river  Han,  including 
a  stoppage  of  nearly  an  hour  at  a  rough  resting-place, 
called  "  Horikol,"  some  sixteen  miles  from  Chemulpo. 
These  coolies  were  manly,  active  fellows,  and  very 
willing.  They  walked  very  smoothly,  and  with  short 
steps ;  the  carrying  rods  were  elastic,  and  in  this 
respect  I  was  much  more  at  ease  than  in  the  dancing 
and  jerking  chairs  in  which  I  rode  in  Formosa.  On  ap- 
proaching this  river,  the  way,  at  this  time  of  year,  lies 
over  a  wide  and  desolate  plain  of  sand,  the  whole  of 
which  must  be  covered  in  the  rainy  season.  The 
river  itself  is  ferried  over  by  a  broad,  rough  boat  to  a 
very  ragged  wall  on  the  opposite  side,  and  when  you 
land  and  are  carried  onwards  you  realize  what  sort  of 
place  you  are  in.  The  first  town  is  called  Mapu,  and 
I  can  best  describe  my  first  impressions  of  it  by 
saying  that  it  represented  to  me  a  crowd  of  badly- 
built  and  badly- thatched  tumble-down  cow-houses, 
with  very  little  more  than  cow-paths  to  walk  through 
upon,  and  these  adorned  or  unadorned  with  the 
dreariest  of  open  shops  and  stalls,  and  further  still 
with  petty  cesspools. 


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KOREA.  319 

Passing  on  and  through,  the  capital  lies  between 
three  and  four  miles  further,  and  in  its  general  aspect 
shows  very  little  better  than  Mapu  on  first  appearance. 
I  seemed  to  be  carried  through  something  like  a  city 
conjured  up  in  a  nightmare,  until  at  last,  in  greatest 
wonder  where  Mr.  Schoenicke  could  have  found  a 
dwelling,  I  was  suddenly  turned  into  his  compound, 
and  a  host,  full  of  the  sunshine  of  hospitality  and 
welcome,  stood  at  his  door  to  receive  me. 

Once  within  the  precincts  of  his  dwelling,  I  felt 
separated  from  the  city ;  and  it  soon  became  evident 
that,  happily  for  all  the  Europeans  officially  occupied 
in  S^oul,  all  their  compounds  are  grouped  together. 
The  ground  is  very  uneven ;  some  houses  stand 
higher  than  others.  Mr.  Schoenicke's  is  rather  lower 
than  some  others,  but  very  picturesque.  A  fitting 
dwelling  has  been  designed  by  Mr.  Marshall,  and  is 
now  in  course  of  construction,  for  Mr.  Consul-General 
Hillier,  in  an  excellent  position,  and  Mr.  Waebcr,  the 
Russian  Charge  d'Affaires,  with  whom  and  his  hos- 
pitality I  had  the  opportunity  of  making  a  very 
pleasant  acquaintance,  is  also  building  for  himself  a 
house  worthy  of  his  office.  Well  indeed  do  gentlemen 
occupying  these  positions  in  Seoul  require  every 
fitting  comfort  in  existence  that  can  be  afforded 
them. 

The  position  of  S^oul  is  peculiar.  It  is  not  many 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  in  any  part  of  it.  Its 
surface  is  very  irregular,  but  it  is  chiefly  in  a  hollow, 
and  is  surrounded  by  peculiarly  arid  serrated  ridges, 
some  nearer  than  others.  From  one  of  these,  when 
the  weather  is  not  too  hot  to  make  the  excursion,  I 


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320  WAXDERINGS  AND    WOXDERINGS. 

am  told  a  most  effective  view  of  the  city  can  be  ob- 
tained :  and  it  must  be  a  curious  view.  During  my 
stay  my  thermometer  stood  too  high  for  the  attempt 
in  question,  the  summer  having  tediously  lingered. 

While  in  S^oul,  and  seeing  that  my  host  was  busily 
occupied  in  his  duties,  Mr.  Stripling,  to  whom  I  had 
a  letter  of  introduction,  kindly  called  and  showed  me 
over  what  was  to  be  seen.  Among  other  things  are 
two  old  palaces ;  and  Colonel  Cummins  afterwards 
took  me  to  the  outside  of  the  one  occupied  by  his 
Majesty,  showing  me  also  the  Great  Bell,  and  the 
great  Regent  Street  of  Seoul.  On  my  return  with 
Mr.  Stripling,  we  mounted  over  uneven  ground  to  the 
walls  of  the  city.  These  encompass  a  far  wider  space 
than  is  really  populated,  and  the  following  of  their 
wandering  course  up  and  down  the  various  heights 
and  hollows  offers  an  attractive  pursuit  for  the 
stranger's  eye. 

While  I  must  confess  to  have  been  struck  with  the 
utterly  ragged  appearance  of  almost  everything  about 
me,  I  must  not  forget  to  mention  another  sight  that 
also  struck  me  at  one  of  the  old  palaces.  I  refer  to  a 
large  plantation  of  mulberry  trees.  They  were  too 
healthy  and  luxuriant  to  escape  my  immediate  notice, 
and  the  natural  question  arose  as  to  the  cultivation  of 
the  worm  and  the  production  of  silk.  The  attempt 
had,  it  appears,  been  made,  but  the  result,  from 
certain  causes,  was  rather  more  akin  to  the  state  of 
the  city  than  to  the  luxuriance  of  the  trees.  Surely 
the  matter  cannot  rest  here.  Other  signs  of  fertility 
were  visible  in  other  spots,  and  I  must  mention  the 
garden   belonging  to  Judge   Denny's  house,  where 


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KOREA.  321 

Mrs.  Denny  appears  to  be  able  to  make  everythino^ 
of  fruit  and  flower  grow  and  give. 

The  soil  of  Korea,  indeed,  has  the  character  of 
remarkable  fertility.  I  have  said  that*  my  invasion  of 
the  island  extended  only  to  the  capital.  But  even 
over  that  short  space  I  was  continually  surprised  by 
the  luxuriance  of  the  crops.  Wherever  the  earth  had 
been  appealed  to  it  had  responded  generously,  and 
produce  was  abounding.  Among  other  species  ap- 
pears a  bean,  cultivated  very  extensively,  and  exported 
very  largely  to  Japan,  being  used  (as  I  was  informed) 
as  a  manure,  and  also  for  its  oil.  The  people,  though 
of  course  very  backward,  appear  to  be  strong  and 
active,  and  ought  to  be  able,  by-and-by,  to  take  a  far 
more  prominent  position  than  they  at  present  either 
can  or  would  be  permitted  to  occupy. 

As  regards  the  cliitiate,  it  is  reported  as  excellent. 
The  road  from  Chemulpo  develops  largely  the  general 
character  of  the  country.  It  is  undulating  through- 
out, with  a  surrounding  prospect  of  hills,  and  even 
mountains,  the  serrated  ridges  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  S^oul  being  visible  almost  from  the  beginning  of 
the  journey.  There  is  little  or  no  timber  in  the 
districts  I  speak  of,  but  large  forests  are  found  in  the 
north,  and  much  mineral  wealth  is  said  to  exist. 
Fertility  and  climate,  those  two  vital  gifts,  may  fairly 
be  attributed  to  Korea.  Everything  (so  to  speak) 
will  grow  ;  and  I  am  told  that,  as  a  general  rule,  only 
two  summer  months  in  the  year  are  oppressive.  Nor 
is  the  cold  of  the  winter  more  than  may  be  borne 
with  health,  provided  always  that  people  have  some- 
thing better  than  cow-houses  to  live  in. 

Y 


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322  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

On  the  28th  of  August  I  bade  adieu  to  my 
most  pleasant  host,  and  started  for  Chemulpo.  My 
journey  throughout  was  prosperously  made,  coolies 
and  all  having  been  set  under  command  with  Mr. 
Schoenlcke's  usual  kindness  and  consideration,  and 
again  I  appreciated  the  healthy  undulations  and  the 
smiling  fertility  around  me  that  had  attracted  my 
attention  on  my  journey  upwards. 

Happy  man  !  Scarcely  having  relinquished  hospi- 
tality in  Seoul,  I  was  regaled  with  it  immediately  on 
my  arrival  in  Chemulpo  ;  and  my  bearers,  on  arriving 
at  the  Buddha  Temple,  were  met  with  orders  to  carry 
me  up  at  once  to  the  Eagle  Nest  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Johnston,  where,  in  their  perfect  little  guest-house,  I 
enjoyed  society,  comfort,  and  repose  till  my  departure 
for  Tientsin.  This  was  to  take  place  at  six  o'clock 
on  Tuesday  morning,  the  2nd  of  September,  by  the 
Tsuruga,  Captain  Thomsen,  for  which  I  arranged  a 
new  ticket,  as  agreed.  Meanwhile  I  called  on  Mr. 
H.  T.  Stanclifif,  the  paymaster  on  board  the  United 
States  s.s.  Swatura,  whom  I  was  to  visit  at  Chefoo, 
two  of  the  officers,  Lieutenants  Perkins  and  Reynolds, 
afterwards  dining  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Johnston.  But 
on  the  31st  a  great  change  of  weather  took  place,  and 
we  were  hindered  from  lunching  with  Captain  Tisdale, 
of  H.M.S.  Linnet.  All  such  passing  events  are  un- 
eventful in  Tall  Mall,  but  if  you  go  to  Chemulpo  you 
will  find  they  give  you  "something  to  talk  about.*' 
Finally  (for  one  more)  we  sat  down  to  a  cheerful 
dinner  on  the  evening  of  the  1st  of  September,  at 
which,  to  my  great  subsequent  advantage,  1  made  the 
acquaintance  of  Mr.  Michie,  the  proprietor  of  'llu 


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KOREA,  323 

Chinese  Times  at  Tientsin,  and  found  he  was  to  be  a 
fellow-passenger  on  board.  After  dinner  and  talk,  on 
board  we  all  went ;  and  the  usual  parting  sentiments 
were  abundantly  interchanged.  So  farewell,  Korea  I 
with  the  fullest  meaning  of  that  word.  Nature  has 
done  much  for  you  among  your  neighbours,  and  Man 
must  not  be  permitted  to  undo  you.  And  you, 
commercial  England,  behave  well  to  Korea ;  for  her 
trade  with  you  in  necessary  articles  is  already  com- 
paratively large,  and  is  increasing  yearly ;  your 
position  is  good,  so  take  good  care  of  it,  and  your 
Consul-Genera],  Mr.  Hillier,  will  take  good  care  of 
you. 

And  finally,  you,  my  two  good  hosts,  farewell  to 
you  !  I  have  many  thanks  to  pay  to  you,  but  happily 
no  Customs  duties;  but  were  it  otherwise,  to  none 
would  I  pay  them  so  cheerfully  as  to  Mr.  Schcenicke 
and  Mr.  Johnston. 


V  2 

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XXIX. 

We  had  a  most  propitious  passage  on  board  the 
Tsuruga  to  Tongku.  Our  weather  was  as  genial  as 
our  good  captain — Thomsen;  which  is  saying  much. 
On  Wednesday,  the  3rd  of  September,  we  stood  off 
Chefoo,  at  early  morning,  the  shore  view  looking  very 
inviting;  but  no  time  was  given  to  land,  and  I  could 
only  hail  Mr.  Stancliff  in  his  boat.  Steaming  on 
again  for  a  few  hours'  voyage,  we  breasted  the  now 
historical  Taku  Forts.  As  a  rule,  I  take  no  special 
interest  in  forts,  in  visiting  which  my  mouth  is 
generally  wider  open  than  my  eyes  ;  but  here,  in  full 
view  of  Taku,  I  could  not  but  bestow  a  special  gaze 
upon  them,  for  I  had  received  a  letter  from  my  inti- 
mate friend  in  London,  Surgeon  Lieut- Colonel  Dr. 
Lewins  (who  had  been  engaged  in  the  Chinese  war  of 
1860-61),  in  which  he  wrote,  "Think  of  me  at  the 
Taku  Forts,  if  your  enterprising  steps  lead  you  in 
that  direction."  I  was  happy  in  the  reflection  that 
the  forts  were  tranquil,  and  that  he  was  safe  in 
London. 

My  friend  was  surgeon  in  charge  of  the  Mauritius^ 
hospital  ship,  at  the  taking  of  these  formidable  forts. 
We  had  more  than  once  conversed  upon  the  subject, 
nor  can  I  refrain  from  here  noting  down  some  inte- 
resting and  important  particulars  of  that  operation,  as 


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TO   TIENTSIN,  32$ 

recounted  to  me  by  him,  while  I  seem  to  have  Taku 
now  standing  before  mc. 

In  the  year  previous  to  the  war  I  speak  of,  these 
forts  had  successfully  resisted  Admiral  Hope's  deter- 
mined attack,  and  Dr.  Lewins  has  always  attributed 
their  capture  in  the  war  of  1 860-61  to  the  genius  of 
the  late  Lord  Napier  of  Magdala,  who,  as  Dr.  Lewins 
thinks,  was  the  first  engineer  or  artillery  officer  who 
ever  commanded  a  division  of  the  British  army.  .  The 
then  Commander-in-Chief  was  a  cavalry  officer,  Sir 
Hope  Grant,  whose  qualifications  for  the  special  art 
of  siege  operations  might  naturally  be  doubtful;  nor 
was  the  French  general,  Montauban,  at  all  superior  to 
him  in  this  respect.  The  original  intention  was  that 
the  English  army  should  attack  the  Northern  Forts, 
and  the  French  the  Southern  ;  tactics  which  Dr. 
Lewins  thinks  would  have  caused  great  slaughter, 
without  being  very  well  calculated  to  succeed.  But 
Lord  Napier  at  once  sagaciously  detected  the  weak 
point  in  the  Chinese  position,  and  attacked  the  3rd 
Fort  from  the  sea,  in  which  there  was  a  raised  mound 
where  guns  could  be  placed  for  raking  the  whole 
range  of  the  defence.  The  attempt  entirely  succeeded, 
and  this  fort  was  captured  at  the  cost  to  the  English 
of  200  killed  and  wounded,  and  to  the  French  about 
the  same.  Nor  would  this  loss  have  been  so  great 
had  not  the  French,  out  of  mere  bravado,  proceeded 
to  escalade  before  the  Tartar  force  was  completely 
crushed,  thus  obliging  the  English  to  follow  them  into 
quite  useless  destruction.  Dr.  Lewins  particularly 
mentions  it  was  on  this  memorable  occasion  that, 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Barry,  a  battery  of 


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326  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS, 

Armstrong  breech- loading  guns  were  for  the  first 
time  brought  into  play  ;  and  (says  the  doctor)  it  was 
dreadful  to  witness  their  terrible  efficiency.  Not  a 
single  Tartar  escaped  death,  for  all  refused  quarter  or 
surrender  to  the  very  last ;  those  who  had  not  been 
shattered  by  the  Armstrongs  perishing  by  the 
bayonet.  Here,  I  may  observe,  is  another  example  of 
these  people's  indifference  to  life.  "  Moreover,  even 
those  recruited  by  us  for  the  Transport  Corps,  and 
treated  among  the  wounded  on  board  the  Bentinck, 
preferred  death  to  surgical  treatment,  and  it  was  a 
constant  source  of  anxiety  to  the  officials  to  prevent 
their  committing  suicide  in  order  to  avoid  the  alter- 
native." 

We  sailed  as  nearly  up  to  the  railway-station 
of  Tongku  as  the  tide  would  admit  of,  and,  when 
we  anchored,  our  good  captain  immediately  placed 
his  gig  at  our  disposal,  and  we  bid  him  a  hearty 
farewell.  Being  kindly  hailed  by  the  Engineer  of 
the  line  in  the  usual  form,  we  left  by  the  9.42 
morning  train  for  Tientsin,  where  we  arrived  at 
1 1.8  o'clock.  This  railway  was  a  real  blessings,  and 
certainly  it  has  not  invaded  and  wounded  any  very 
delightful  scenery.  At  best,  the  whole  surrounding 
lands  are  flat,  but  as  we  saw  them  on  the  4th  of 
September — oh,  what  a  desolation  of  outspread 
waters !  In  this  respect  there  must  have  been 
novelty  for  all  of  us,  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  to  the 
poor  inhabitants,  for  I  believe  the  floods  of  1890 
were  quite  unusuaU  On  arriving  at  Tientsin  Mr. 
Michie  was  good  enough  to  take  me  to  the  hotel, 
and  a  certain  guide  presenting  himself,  he  forthwith 


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TIENTSLW  327 

recommended    him    to    me — Ngan    Chii    Shing — a 
heartily  opportune  circumstance. 

My  first  object  was  the  Chief  Commissioner's  office 
to  get  my  letters,  where  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting 
Mr.  Yorke,  in  the  absence  of  Mr.  Detring ;  and  here, 
to  my  agreeable  surprise,  I  found  among  them  a  long 
letter  from  Sir  Robert  Hart,  full  of  suggestions  as  to 
my  course  to  Peking.  Mr.  Yorke  was  kind  enough 
to  recommend  to  me  one  Hu  Yung-an,  for  ponies, 
who  served  me  well :  these  I  had  been  recommended 
to  bring  up  with  me,  for  none  are  to  be  had  at  Peking. 
Thus  I  was  prepared  so  far  for  a  start ;  and  it  was 
decided  that  my  journey  must  be  by  the  river  Peiho. 
A  conference  with  Mr.  Ritter,  of  the  Ast<^r  Hotel, 
put  me  in  the  way  of  securing  all  the  provisions  I 
should  require  for  my  river  journey  to  Tungchow,  and 
my  guide  undertook  to  find  the  necessary  house-boat. 
I  am  not  at  all  sure  I  should  have  chosen  any  other 
mode  of  travelling  here,  but  fortunately  no  room  to 
doubt  and  choose  was  left,  for  though  the  ponies 
could  be  led  in  some  fashion  to  meet  me  at  Tung- 
chow, to  ride  there  was  impossible  on  account  of  the 
floods.  An  afternoon's  visit  to  inspect  the  chosen 
house-boat  was  proformd  only,  for  all  the  boats  were 
alike.  The  system  of  their  structure  reminded  me  of 
the  one  I  had  floated  about  in  while  touring  in. 
Kashmir ;  but  the  details  here  are  far  superior. 
Here  there  is  wooden  framework ;  there  you 
are  simply  covered  in  with  matting,  above  and 
around,  and  are  never  free  from  draughts  of  wind  at 
night,  and,  the  boats  being  smaller,  it  is  always 
necessary  to  have  a  second  one  for  cooking.     But 


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328  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

they  do  their  best  among  the  very  poor  workers  in 
Kashmir  with  their  scanty  means. 

Solids  and  liquids  and  ice  being  on  board,  and  the 
British  Consul  having  furnished  me  with  the  indis- 
pensable passport,  all  was  now  in  order,  and  I  started 
for  Peking  at  eleven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
Sth  of  September,  wondering  what  sort  of  a  city  I 
was  to  see,  and  feeling  sure  it  must  be  very  unlike 
Tientsin,  through  the  narrow  bizarre  bazaars  of  which 
I  was  carried  in  a  chair  to  meet  my  boat  at  "  The 
Bridge."  I  had  my  guide  and  my  Indian  servant 
with  me,  and  both  proved  essential  throughout.  One 
great  help  I  also  had  at  Mr.  Michie's  hands — a  full 
large  bundle  of  the  latest  London  Times^  to  read  and 
digest  in  case  of  monotony  on  my  river  journey.  For 
some  considerable  distance  up  stream  I  was  surprised 
to  observe  the  close  and  varied  number  of  sampans 
crowding  both  sides  of  the  Peiho.  Later  on  these 
disappeared,  but  the  breast  of  the  stream  was  always 
adorned,  and  sometimes  clogged,  with  rice  boats 
and  their  rectangular  crumpled  sails  shining  in  the 
sun.  The  shores  gradually  became  naked,  and  of 
course  merely  flat  and  muddy,  and  twice  I  was  sur- 
prised  by  a  heavy  splash  on  board,  produced  by  a  fall 
of  earth  from  a  dry,  low  bank  into  the  water,  in  feeble 
imitation  of  grander  catastrophes. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  we  came  to  the  village 
of  Ho-hsi-wu,  which  my  guide  told  me  was  just  half 
way  on  the  journey  ;  and  we  passed  onwards  under 
its  group  of  trees  on  the  flat  shore  to  our  night 
anchorage  higher  up  stream,  at  eight  o'clock. 

The  7th  was  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  complete 


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TO   PEKING.  329 

regiment  of  rice  boats  we  passed  with  their  sails 
glittering  in  the  sun  ;  they  lent  life  to  the  scene,  but 
their  charm  was  a  charming  bore  sometimes,  and 
especially  so  were  some  very  huge  boats  belonging 
to  the  Emperor.  But  we  managed  to  pass  through 
them  without  entangling  our  lines  or  being  im- 
periously crushed.  Nor  Were  these  the  only  troubles 
on  the  way.  I  must  add  the  impalpable  dust  from 
the  banks,  reminding  me  of  the  Nile  ;  and  especially 
the  sun.  Wind  about  as  we  would — and  the  Peiho 
certainly  does  wind — our  main  direction  always 
brought  us  sun,  direct  or  by  reflection  ; 

Sun,  sun,  sun, 

Wherever  we  wound  or  turned  ; 
From  sky  to  water,  and  water  to  sky, 

Both  of  'em  blinded  and  burned. 

As  to  the  river's  windings,  it  reminded  me  of  the 
Jhelum  in  Kashmir,  both  flow  through  dead  flat 
banks ;  and  here  again  I  noted  that  the  flatter  the 
territory  the  more  winding  and  devious  is  the 
stream,  as  if  it  were  without  a  guide  and  did  not  know 
whither  it  was  going  ;  meeting  with  no  troubles  to 
control  it  I  am  told  that  while  the  distance  from 
Tientsin  to  Tungchow  by  land  measures  eighty 
miles,  that  by  water  measures  120,  or  just  half  as 
much  again.  However,  all  here  was  new,  though 
small  annoyances  themselves  are  very  rarely  so  ;  and 
at  eight  o'clock  at  night  we  anchored. 

The  8th  was  to  show  me  my  last  half  day  on  the 
river,  and  at  very  early  morning  I  was  waked  by  a  loud 
Buddha  gong.     Yes,   we  may  object  to  this  ;    but 


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330  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

what  of  the  wild  howlings  of  our  Salvation  Army  at 
home  ?  Are  the  gods  so  fond  of  discord  ?  Where 
IS  St.  Cecilia  ?  Has  she  no  throne  in  heaven  ?  or  has 
she  turned  enemy  to  harmony  ?  The  Buddhists  are 
the  more  tolerable  by  far.     Their  bells  are  sonorous. 

At  about  noon  or  a  little  after  we  landed  among 
a  crowd  of  boats,  thus  making  the  river  journey  in 
three  whole  days  and  an  hour — or  seventy-three 
hours  altogether.  The  stream  was  strong  against  us, 
and  the  men  worked  well  throughout,  stopping  for  a 
certain  number  of  hours  each  night,  and  feeding  on 
their  rice  at  intervals.  My  own  cook,  Ngan  Chii 
Shing  and  my  Indian  servant  kept  me  supplied  with 
everything,  and  were  most  attentive. 

On  landing,  my  first  question  of  course  was, 
"  Where  are  my  ponies  .^  *'  "  There,"  said  my  guide, 
"  there  ; "  but  before  1  could  catch  sight  of  them  a 
letter  was  put  into  my  hand,  being  another  explicit 
one  from  Sir  Robert  Hart,  who  had  very  considerately 
sent  down  a  chair  and  two  carts  to  meet  me,  in  case 
my  ponies  should  not  have  arrived.  Nothing  could 
have  been  more  welcome  to  me  ;  and  as  the  sun  was 
very  hot  I  availed  myself  of  the  covered  chair,  and 
sent  up  the  ponies  with  the  mafoo,  and  my  guide  and 
servant  with  the  carts. 

Sir  Robert  Hart  had  warned  me  in  his  letter  that 
the  gates  of  the  city  closed  at  half-past  six  in  the 
evening,  and  that  I  must  by  no  means  start  one 
minute  later  than  2  p.m.  or  I  should  run  the  danger 
of  being  shut  out,  and  have  to  pass  the  night  in 
whatever  miserable  Chinese  hotel  the  chair  coolies 
might  take  me  to.     The  journey  was  to  occupy  five 


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TO  PEKING.  331 

hours,  and  the  coolies  were  to  have  an  opportunity 
of  stopping  two  or  three  times  for  tea  and  tobacco. 

We  started  in  good  time.  They  had  their  instruc- 
tions, and  I  consigned  myself  to  their  care  like  a  bag 
of  merchandise.  As  was  to  be  expected  they  carried 
me  well  and  faithfully  ;  and  in  very  good  time  before 
the  forbidding  hour  I  found  myself  close  under  the 
vast  perspective  of  the  imposing  thirty  feet  high 
dark  walls  of  the  Capital  of  the  North,  Peking. 
There  was  a  certain  majesty  in  this  towering  outside 
aspect  in  the  evening,  as  there  was  also  something  of 
imagined  awe  as  I  was  carried  through  the  dark 
depth  of  the  Tung-pien-men,  or  Eastern  Gate,  into 
the  Chinese  city,  the  first  of  the  three  that  you  come 
to.  But  immediately  on  emerging,  there  was  a  striking 
and  entertaining  change.  A  medley,  as  it  seemed,  of 
streets  and  houses,  and  carts,  and  flat  yellow  faces  in 
various  costumes  suddenly  took  possession  of  my 
eyes,  and  in  the  midst  of  all  my  coolies  set  me  down 
to  take  their  five  minutes'  rest.  It  was  most  amusing. 
Had  I  been  a  monster  as  rare  as  some  of  their  pecu- 
liarly impossible  statues,  I  could  not  have  been 
more  intensely  gazed  at  It  was  monstrari  digiio 
with  a  vengeance,  though  not  in  the  Horatian 
sense,  and  astonishment  commanded  silence.  The 
crowd  at  last  became  so  great  that  my  coolies 
hurried  themselves  to  move  on.  Through  this  part  of 
the  Chinese  city  I  passed  to  another  gate,  an  inner  one 
opening  into  the  Tartar  City,  and  called  Ha-ta-mSn  ; 
though  why  we  spell  Tartar  with  the  middle  "  r,"  I  do 
not  know.  The  word  is  Tatar.  I  was  not  set  down 
again,  and  indeed    soon  found    myself  carried  over 


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332  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

a  large  open  space  under  the  wall.  But  I  confess 
to  have  kept  asking  myself  the  question,  "Where 
on  earth,  among  all  these  strange  streets,  and  open- 
ings and  dwellings  and  people,  can  Sir  Robert  Hart 
be  living  ?  " 


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XXX. 

At  last,  however,  encountering  crowds  again,  we 
arrived  at  T'ai  Ch'e  Chiang — where  stands  his  walled 
domain,— and  entering  in,  I  found  myself  surprisingly 
separated  from  all  associations  with  the  city,  and  in  the 
presence  of  Hay-Ta-Yin,  Sir  Robert  Hart's  self.  A 
spacious  house,  surrounded  by  a  well-planted  garden 
with  lawns  and  trees,  was  before  me,  and  a  genial 
welcome,  uncompromised  by  the  title,  greeted  me  on 
entering.  Sir  Robert  was  at  home,  and  the  rest  of  the 
evening  before  dinner  time  was  pleasantly  filled  up  by 
a  quiet  walk  under  the  trees  and  over  the  lawns,  not 
huge  but  ample;  and  scarcely  less  influenced  by  the 
general  aspect  of  the  ground  than  by  the  easy 
hospitality  of  my  host,  I  fairly  felt  myself  "at 
home  "  at  once. 

I  must  confess  I  was  particularly  taken,  during  our 
conversational  stroll,  with  the  garden  ;  not  only 
flowering  shrubs  and  lawns,  but  quiet  avenues  of 
trees  being  included ;  and  the  owner  had  planted 
them  all.  That  surprised  me,  for  their  growth  was 
notable  ;  and  being  passionately  fond  of  trees,  their 
screen  and  shade  were  charming  to  me. 

Nothing  could  be  more  comfortable  and  indepen- 
dent than  the  arrangements  made  for  my  sojourn. 
My  rooms  were  on  one  side  of  the  hall,  the  house 
being  built   in  spacious  English    style,    and    there 


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334  IVAXDERLXGS  AND    IVONDERIXGS. 

and  thence  I  had  free  dwelling  and  exit  just  as  I 
pleased.  Every  morning  came  my  coffee  with  an 
abundance  of  grapes,  for  which  Peking  is  at  this 
season  so  deservedly  famed,  and  of  these  grapes  it  is 
worth  while  observing  that  the  Chinese  have  some 
secret  method  of  preserving  their  freshness  all 
through  the  winter.  The  fruit  is  particularly  fine, 
and  well  worth  their  ingenuity.  Sir  Robert  was 
engaged  all  day  till  five  on  the  opposite  side,  free 
from  interference  ;  luncheon  only  intervened,  and 
dinner  and  conversation  closed  up  the  evening. 

On  the  following  day,  the  9th,  I  was  of  course  to 
call  upon  our  Minister,  Sir  John  Walsham,  which  I 
had  much  personal  pleasure  in  doing,  for  I  had  made 
his  acquaintance  some  years  ago  in  Madrid,  as  the 
eldest  son  of  his  late  worthy  father,  whom  I  had 
known  very  well  indeed.  I  found  his  Excellency 
living  in  a  veiy  handsome  temple,  with  all  dignified  ap- 
proaches, now  converted  into  a  Legation,  and  I  sat  for 
a  long  time  conversing  with  him.  This  dwelling  in 
temples,  particularly  in  the  hills,  when  vacation 
comes  on,  is  notable.  It  was  vacation  time  when  I 
visited  Peking,  but  Sir  John  was  at  the  Legation, 
and,  fortunately  for  me.  Sir  Robert  Hart  never  takes 
a  holiday. 

It  was  now  the  9th  of  September,  and  I  had  to 
consider  the  realization  of  one  great  object  of  my 
coming  to  Peking,  besides  that  of  enjoying  the 
society  of  my  distinguished  host  and  making  myself 
acquainted  with  the  great  city,  its  crowded  streets 
and  alleys,  and  its  large  open  spaces,  unoccupied. 
That  great  object  was  to  see    the  great    historical 


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PEKING.  335 

Wall,  and  the  now  forlorn  tombs  of  the  Ming 
Dynasty ;  and  as  I  had  yet  to  visit  the  gorges  of 
the  Yangtse  Kyang,  and  to  take  care  not  to  be  too 
late  again  for  the  temples  in  Cambodia,  it  was 
necessary  not  to  loiter,  though  there  was  no  occasion 
for  hurry.  Sir  Robert  had  at  once  made  me  ac-j 
quainted  with  his  Private  Secretary,  Mr.  Ludlow, 
who  naturally  speaks  Chinese  well,  and  under  his 
guidance  I  had  made  that  one  generally  necessary 
visit,  viz.  to  the  Bank,  or  what  was  as  good  as  a 
bank,  for  foreign  establishments  under  that  name 
arc  not  permitted  in  Peking.  Then  it  must  enter 
into  my  head  ;  "  I  wonder  whether  I  dare  ask  for 
Mr.  Ludlow  as  my  companion  lor  the  journey  ?  *'  I 
made  bold,  and  did  ask,  and  behold,  taking  into 
consideration  the  utter  loneliness  I  should  suffer  and 
the  necessary  incompleteness  and  discomfort  of  my 
journey  in  consequence,  the  request  was  most  con- 
siderately granted.  So  preparations  were  forthwith 
set  on  foot  for  a  start  on  the  morning  of  Friday,  the 
1 2th,  and  leave  of  absence  was  accorded  until  the 
following  Tuesday,  just  five  days.  Meanwhile, 
on  the  intermediate  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and 
Thursday,  Mr.  Ludlow  made  it  more  apparent  to  me 
than  ever  how  much  I  depended  on  him,  by  riding 
with  me  through  almost  every  part  of  Peking,  over 
paved  streets,  and  dusty  streets,  and  crowded 
streets ;  among  carts  with  dangerously  projecting 
axle-trees,  and  other  carts  with  dangerously  pro* 
jecting  corners  of  awnings  ;  between  ugly  booths,  and 
stalls,  that  were  hiding  better  shops  ;  and  chairs,  and 
handsome   mules,  and   even   barrows.     It  is  almost 


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336  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

impossible  to  believe  that  Canton  and  Peking  can 
belong  to  the  same  nation,  so  utterly  different  are 
the  two.  As  regards  the  plan  of  the  whole  of 
Peking,  I  made  every  effort  to  obtain  a  copy  of  a 
small  pamphlet  containing  one,  with  a  quantity  of 
other  useful  information,  but  in  vain. 

The  whole  city,  as  Peking,  is  built  on  a  vast  flat, 
sandy  plain,  between  the  river  Peiho  and  its  affluent, 
the  Hoen-ho  ;  and  it  consists  of  three  walled  cities. 
The   Chinese    city   is   a  rectangular    parallelogram 
running  one  way  in  length.     The  Tartar  city  is  such 
another ;   longer  and   almost   as   broad,  joining  at 
right  angles,  and  making  a  sort  of  very  broad  V       \ 
and  the  Imperial  city  is  walled  up  within  the  Tartar 
city.     The  outside  walls  cover,  I  understood,  some 
twenty   miles.     The   Chinese   city  is   said   to   con- 
tain  nine    square    miles,    is    thickly    populated    by 
the  Chinese,  and  is  the  seat    of   general   business. 
The  Tartar  city  is  not  so  thickly  populated.     It  con- 
tains fourteen  square  miles,    and  contains  also  the 
forbidden    Imperial  city.      The    whole  is    flat    and 
sandy,  dusty  enough,  and  a  great  deal  too  much  so 
when  the  wind  blows.     The  main  streets  are  straight, 
and  a  curious  raggedness  is  given  to  the  scene  by 
the  arrangement  of  them.     There  is  a  raised  dusty 
causeway  (as  we  call  it)  in  the  middle,  on  each  side 
of  which  there  is  a  lower  dusty  breadth,  and  then 
come  the  real    shops.      These  are  in    many  cases 
coloured  and  showy,  particularly  the  tea-shops ;  but 
between  these  and  the  raised  street  ragged  and  paltry 
places  of  active  business  are  built,  materially  hiding 
the  others.     These,  they  say,  are  removed  when  the 


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PEKING.  337 

Emperor  comes  out ;  but  there  was  no  sign  of  this 
Imperial  movement  during  my  short  sojourn. 

In  the  Chinese  city,  crowded  with  life  and  move- 
ment, I  remember  to  have  been  conducted  up  the 
Long  Street,  the  Curio  Street,  where  I  made  no 
purchases  whatever  (the  street  being  Curio  enough 
itself),  and  the  Lamp  Street.  Now  and  then  a  man- 
darin in  his  official  chair  and  with  his  retinue  will  be 
met  with  ;  and  everyone  gives  way  to  the  palanquin. 
In  short,  the  glory  of  these  streets  is  their  colour 
and  confusion,  and  I  rather  delight  in  courting  con- 
fusion of  recollection.  Some  strange  things  I  saw 
in  the  Chinese  city,  some  in  the  Tartar  city,  nothing 
beyond  something  of  the  outsides  of  the  Imperial  city. 
But  I  should  here  mention  one  famous  temple  of  which 
a  certain  uncertain  view  used  to  be  obtained  ;  it  has, 
however,  been  totally  destoyed  by  fire.  I  mean  the 
one  illustrated  at  page  690  of  Fergusson,  and  called 
by  the  two  singularly  contrary  names,  so  far  as  the 
Christian  ear  is  affected,  of  the  "  Temple  of  Heaven," 
or  of  "  tiie  Great  Dragon."  But  the  great  dragon  is, 
we  should  remember,  the  symbol  of  the  Chinese 
nation,  intended,  of  course,  to  strike  terror ;  as  also 
it  is  in  the  Apocalypse,  but  in  a  different  sense.  The 
Tartar  city  is  the  residence  of  all  the  Legations  and  of 
all  foreigners.  Many  Manchus  reside  there,  and  if 
you  meet  a  woman  astride  on  horseback  she  is  a 
Tartar  and  never  a  Chinese.  Look  at  those  mules, 
now  and  then.  Where  else  can  you  find  any  such 
truly  handsome  animals  i  I  had  almost  said  any 
approach  to  them.  We  used  to  boast  of  our  mules  in 
Brazil,  but  they  would  be  literally  nowhere  here.     I 

z 


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338  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/ NGS, 

am  afraid  to  say  what  some  of  the  best  saddle-mules 
are  worth  ;  but  I  believe  you  may  add  an  s  to 
hundred  ;  and  if  I  have  said,  "  Look  at  the  mules/' 
I  may  now  add,  "  Listen  to  the  donkeys  !"  I  may  safely 
say  that  Peking  brayings  appeared  to  me  to  create  a 
new  sensation.     Always  bear  in  mind — crowds. 

In  one  of  our  daily  rides  we  met  a  very  singular 
procession.  There  was  a  good  nosegay  of  varie- 
gated costume  and  there  was  a  carrying  on  high  of 
certain  large  gilded  or  golden  boxes  of  a  certain 
size.  What  on  earth  are  these  ?  The  procession 
is  a  marriage  procession,  and  those  boxes  contain 
geese.  Boxes  of  this  historical  bird  are  carried 
as  a  present  to  the  bride,  but  they  are  only  hired 
for  the  purpose,  and  having  been  presented,  are  taken 
away  again  and  serve  for  a  new  occasion.  I  know 
not  whether  they  intimate  future  happiness  in 
marriage,  or  are  intended  to  signify  that  the  married 
are  geese  if  they  expect  it ;  but,  strangely  enough, 
they  serve  opposite  purposes,  for,  having  paid  their 
respects  to  marriage,  they  are  equally  carried  to 
funerals.  Geese,  I  was  told,  are  not  eaten  in  Peking. 
Ducks,  I  know,  are,  and  considering  what  these 
birds  must  feed  on,  I  cannot  think  them  wholesome. 
If  you  see  btef  in  a  butcher's  shop,  you  may  be  sure 
he  is  a  Muhammadan.  The  Chinese  do  not  eat  beef 
and  mutton,  but  pork  ad /iditum,  and  veal.  They 
are  known  to  eat  a  good  many  odd  things.  In  the 
Chinese  city  I  certainly  saw  laid  out  in  admirable 
symmetry  dead  rats  upon  a  stall,  in  fair  number, 
their  tails  being  as  carefully  arranged  as  though  they 
had  been  those  of  Chinese  themselves. 


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PEKING.  339 

A  highly  interesting  and  impressive  scene  pre- 
sented itself  one  morning  when  we  mounted  to  the 
top  of  the  thirty-feet  city  walls,  and  walked  along 
a  considerable  space  of  its  many  surrounding  miles. 
The  width  of  these  walls  at  the  base  is  called 
twenty  or  twenty-five  feet,  but  they  taper  inside  ; 
and  the  top  is  given  as  only  twelve  or  fourteen  feet. 
It  looked  more  to  me.  The  construction  consists  of 
two  outsides  to  protect  a  mass  of  stuff  thrown  in 
between.  The  labour  of  it  all  may  be  contemplated. 
Shrubs  and  brambles  were  growing  on  each  side  of 
us  as  we  walked  along,  and  it  was  easy  to  imagine 
ourselves  upon  a  country  road.  We  enjoyed  a  fine 
view  of  the  city  below  us,  which  was  thickly 
dressed  with  trees,  reminding  me  in  this  respect 
of  Bangkok  in  its  far  lesser  scale.  Again,  on  another 
part  of  the  Wall  we  saw  the  extraordinarily  well 
preserved  instruments  of  the  old  Observatory,  all 
for  many  a  year  exposed  to  the  air,  and  yet  pre- 
senting perfect  surfaces. 

The  material  was  bronze ;  the  various  scientific 
instruments  were  elaborately  ornamented,  the  Im- 
perial Chinese  Dragon  figuring  with  his  five  claws. 
These  instruments  were  constructed  in  1674  by  order 
of  the  then  Emperor,  Khanghi,  under  the  direction  of 
the  Jesuit  Father,  F.  Verbiest ;  and  the  large  azimuth 
was  presented  to  that  Emperor  by  Louis  XIV.  Note, 
therefore,  the  quality  of  both  material  and  climate. 

Religious  liberty  must  to  a  certain  extent  be 
recognized  in  Peking,  because  I  saw  a  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  and  a  Mosque.  I  was  also 
shown^an  Examination  Hall,  as  in  Canton.     Here, 

z  2 


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*  I 


340  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

as  there,  there  is  said  to  be  great  competition  for 
degrees.  The  chance  of  later  promotion  is  thought 
to  be  well  worth  contcndinGj  for.  Intellect  and  literary 
capacity  are  much  esteemed ;  but  the  ranking  of  the 
successful,  as  explained  to  me,  seemed  singular. 
Three  degrees  of  "Doctor^*  are  conferred  in  groups 
of  hundreds.  To  the  first  class  hundred  are  granted 
Sinecures,  to  the  second  class  quasi  sinecures,  and  to 
the  third  class  offices  of  generally  useful  service.  So 
thus  it  would  seem  that  learning  in  the  shape  of 
scholastic  acquirements  is  considered  to  exist  in  in- 
verse proportion  with  usefulness  ;  in  other  words,  the 
less  of  the  scholar,  the  more  of  common  sense. 
What,  then,  if  all  the  world  were  scholars  ?  whftre 
would  the  world  look  for  common  sense  ?  Not 
among  the  too  erudite,  entangling  and  inventing. 

Thus  were  my  three  days  passed  in  Peking ;  and 
on  the  evening  of  the  i  ith,  the  eve  of  our  departure  to 
the  Great  Wall,  Sir  Robert  Hart  showed  me  his  beau- 
tiful phonographic  instrument,  in  experimenting  on 
which  and  viewing  certain  mechanical  contrivances 
I  passed  more  than  an  hour  of  entertainment  and 
surprise.  Then  came  the  morning  of  our  departure, 
for  which  all  preparations  had  been  carefully  made 
with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Taillen  and  his  store  ; 
the  sumpter  animals  and  baggage  being  looked  after 
by  proper  authorities,  whom  Mr.  Michie's  recom- 
mended guide  actively  assisted. 


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XXXI. 

Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  the  12th,  I  was 
called  at  five  o'clock,  the  weather  being  very  fresh 
and  fine.  At  6.30  my  guide,  Ngan  Chii  Shing,  and 
my  Indian  servant,  Bana,  left  with  the  coolies,  mules, 
and  cargoes,  and  at  7  a.m.  Mr.  Ludlow  and  I  followed 
with  the  mafoo  on  our  three  ponies,  leaving  Peking  by 
the  An-ting-men  Gate.  My  guide  had  made  out 
his  programme  for  four  days,  but  Mr.  Ludlow  greatly 
improved  upon  it,  and  marked  out  five.  The  great 
point  gained  by  this  arrangement  was  that  we  were 
not  simply  to  get  to  the  Wall  in  the  middle  of  the 
day  and  leave  it  again  after  only  an  hour  or  two's 
stay,  but  we  were  to  go  through  it,  and  sleep,  and 
return  through  it  the  next  morning  ;  and  we  were 
also  to  make  a  round  on  our  return.  We  lunched 
at  Ching  Ho  (or  Clear  River)  and  slept  at  Ch'ang- 
p'ing  Chou  (familiarly  called  "Jumping  Joe*'),  and 
as  the  ground  was  fair  for  riding,  we  covered  twenty- 
four  miles  quickly  ;  visiting  the  Yellow  Temple, 
with  its  curious  white  monument,  at  a  short  distance 
from  Peking,  an  illustration  of  which  is  given  in 
Fergusson.  I  know  not  that  I  was  particularly 
struck  with  any  feature  of  the  country  in  this  ride, 
except  it  was  with  the  splendid  crops  of  what  we 
call  buckwheat  (buchweisen)  ;  not  even  in  Germany 
had  I  ever  seen  such  splendid  spreads  of  it. 


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342  WANDERINGS  AND    l\  ONDERINGS. 

The  next  day,  the  13th,  was  to  be  the  day  for 
visiting  the  Ming  Tombs,  and  after  passing  a  very 
comfortable  night  (in  our  own  beddings,  by-the-by)  at 
a  rather  rough  but  fairly  convenient  hotel,  we  diverged 
towards  the  north  to  visit  these  tombs.  The  scene 
is  most  striking.  The  large  valley  round  which  they 
are  placed  is  quite  flat,  and  is  encircled  by  a  vast 
and  varied  range  of  green  mountains,  curiously  folding 
one  behind  another,  and  presenting  a  ribbed  and 
wrinkled  appearance.  The  first  object  met  with  is  a 
large  white  marble  gateway  :  the  first.  The  second  is 
called  the  Red  Gateway.  Then  appears  a  large  stone 
tablet,  with  a  huge  tortoise,  and  this  is  surrounded 
by  four  pillars  ;  and  from  this  point  there  begins  the 
much-renowned,  and  very  strange,  long  avenue  of 
stone  animals  ;  and  not  of  natural  animals  only,  but 
of  fabulous  animals ;  and  fairly,  may  I  also  add,  of 
fabulous  men.  All  these  objects  (including  camels 
among  the  number)  are  of  gigantic  size.  I  believe 
they  extend  altogether  for  a  mile,  and  they  astonished 
our  own  animals  even  a  good  deal  more  than  they  did 
ourselves— a  certain  sort  of  sarcasm  being  thus  ex- 
pressed towards  these  intended  tragical  and  impres- 
sive productions.  This,  I  thought,  was  particularly 
expressed  by  my  pony's  terrified  objection  to  face 
one  majestic  interpretation  of  a  horse,  which  he 
viewed  with  terror  instead  of  fraternity. 

At  various  distances  round  the  very  extensive 
ridge  of  the  mountains  there  are  thirteen  tombs 
constructed  ;  but  you  may  well  look  for  the  tombs. 
They  are  all  more  or  less  elaborate  buildings  with 
courtyards,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  screen  of  trees 


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Af/XG    TOMBS.  343 

planted  for  their  protection.  We  visited  (I  may 
say  travelled  over)  the  chief  tomb,  called  that  of 
"Yung-lo,"  among  other  features  of  which  was  a 
large  hall  supported  by  several  very  lofty  wooden 
trunks  or  pillars,  said  to  have  been  sent  from 
Burmah,  and  reminding  me  of  some  even  loftier 
trunks  which  supported  one  of  the  halls  of  the  late 
King  Thebaw's  Palace  at  Mandalay.  The  hall 
of  this  Ming  Tomb  is  said  to  be  seventy  yards 
long  by  thirty  deep.  The  whole  encircled  space 
forms  a  complete  domain,  and  from  the  highest 
point  of  the  buildings  a  fine  view  of  the  amphi- 
theatre of  the  green  mountains  is  obtained,  these, 
taken  far  and  near,  appearing  to  entirely  encircle 
the  enormous  flat  valley.  The  thirteen  funeral  pro- 
cessions of  Imperial  burials,  as  they  severally  took 
place  across  this  vast  solitary  space,  must  have 
offered  an  imposing  scene  and  attracted  thousands 
of  admiring  followers  ;  but  now  mere  gaunt,  unheeded 
ruin  stares  ;  for  at  the  funeral  of  the  thirteenth 
emperor,  Wan-lie,  almost  three  hundred  years  ago,  the 
Ming  Dynasty  itself  was  the  companion  of  his  corpse 
to  that  yonder  thirteenth  tomb,  and  was  buried  with  it. 
And  now  for  Nankou,  a  town  at  the  foot  of  the 
Pass  that  is  to  lead  us  to  the  Great  Wall.  Bearing 
off  to  our  right  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  we 
reached  Nankou  for  tififin,  and  after  tiffin  we  set  out 
for  the  Pass.  The  walls  round  Nankou  gave  us  some 
small  notion  of  the  great  structure  we  were  about  to 
visit,  clambering  about  the  surrounding  most  uneven 
ground  ;  but  our  attention  was  soon  called  to  the 
Pass  itself,  presenting  (as  it   does)  the   great,  high 


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344  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

road  to  Mongolia,  Kashgar,  and  Siberia.  The  general 
aspect  of  the  highest  mountain  on  each  side  is  by 
no  means  so  savage  as  has  been  presented  in  certain 
prints.  The  rocks  are  almost  always  covered  with 
grass,  and  in  the  light  and  shade  of  the  afternoon 
presented  often  a  velvety  appearance.  The  road  (as 
may  be  supposed)  is  generally  rough  indeed,  but 
in  many  parts  it  has  been  repaired.  In  many,  how- 
ever, repair  is  quite  impossible :  torrential  streams 
have  torn  it  all  to  pieces.  This  feature,  neverthe- 
less, is  not  predominant,  and  we  made  our  way  very 
fairly  so  as  to  arrive  at  the  Wall  itself  some  easy 
time  before  sunset.  Long  before  reaching  this  point, 
however,  we  caught  sight  of  the  great  animal  coming 
headlong  down  an  apparently  vertical  side  of  a  big 
mountain  in  the  distance  straight  before  us  ;  but  we 
were  not  yet  to  get  through  the  archway.  I  thought 
we  should  never  do  so.  The  windings  of  the  road 
towards  the  upper  end  appeared  to  me  intermin- 
able ;  at  last,  however,  behold  the  longed-for  goal. 
The  wandering,  pitching,  clambering  line  stood 
close  before  us  ;  and  here,  by  the  irony  of  history, 
was  seen  that  vast  structure  which  was  erected  in 
order  to  keep  out  that  race — the  Eastern  or  Mantchou 
Tartars — one  of  whom  now  occupies  the  Imperial 
Throne  of  China.  We  of  course  dismounted  and 
climbed  on  to  the  serpentine  monster.  The  evening 
light  and  shade  lent  great  effect  to  the  surrounding 
scene,  and  as  Cha-tao,  where  we  were  to  sleep,  lay 
only  one  mile  below  us  and  beyond  us,  we  were 
quite  at  liberty,  as  regards  time,  to  examine  and 
survey.     We  therefore  wandered  and  pondered  at 


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IVALL   OF  CHINA,  345 

our  leisure,  and  walked  on  the  top  up  the  declivity  to 
our  left  for  some  little  distance  until  brought  to  by 
a  huge  and  ruinous  fall  of  the  structure,  which 
made  farther  passage  impossible.  This  stupendous 
structure,  said  to  have  been  completed  some  200 
years  B.C.,  appears  to  be  composed,  as  the  walls  of 
Peking,  of  a  huge  mound  of  earth  in  the  middle, 
built  in  and  supported  on  both  sides  by  walls  of 
mixed  brick  and  stone.  It  begins  with  a  mass  of 
stone  at  the  sea  side,  and  runs  over  hill  and  dale 
some  1500  miles,  varying  in  height  all  through  ; 
and  at  short  intervals  it  is  fortified  with  large  square 
towers,  perhaps  thirty  feet  high.  Where  we  saw  it 
the  Wall  itself  might  be  twenty  feet  high,  or  perhaps 
something  more,  and  its  width  at  the  top  perhaps 
fifteen  feet.  You  cannot  see  any  great  length  of  it 
at  one  time  because  of  the  great  and  sudden  irregu- 
larities of  the  ground.  It  shoots  down  upon  you, 
runs  by  you,  mounts  and  disappears,  and  then  gives 
you  a  parting  glimpse  on  a  yet  more  distant  apex. 
When  we  had  gazed  enough  we  came  down  to  the 
comfortable  reality  of  our  saddles ;  into  these  we 
mounted  and  found  our  way  with  easy  descent  to 
Cha-tao,  only  one  mile  away,  where  our  servants  had 
prepared  for  us  our  dinner  and  beds,  and  where,  after 
a  toughish  journey  of  some  twenty-eight  miles,  we 
enjoyed  our  champagne  and  bed.  But  if  you  want 
the  real  benefit  of  champagne  after  fatigue,  drink 
some  immediately  on  coming  in,  and  don't  wait  for 
mere  dinner  sippings,  which  may  come  afterwards. 

The  next  day,  the  T4th,  was  to  be  a  long  one ; 
no   less   than  thirty-three  miles ;   through  the  Pass 


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346  WANDERINGS  AND    WOXDERINGS. 

again,  via  Nankou,  to  the  temple,  Ta  Chiao-ssu  ;  and 
my  companion  considerately  suggested  to  me  that  I 
should  take  a  mule  litter  over  the  Pass,  at  all  events, 
instead  of  quixotically  riding  as  I  had  come.  I 
wavered  a  little,  and,  on  beholding  the  litter,absolutely 
revolted.  But  presently  an  open  chair  appeared,  not 
very  elegant  or  luxurious,  but  open ;  and  my  re- 
bellious spirit  bowed ;  I  accepted  the  considerate 
suggestion.  I  never  made  a  more  judicious  sub- 
mission, for,  starting  early,  we  had  the  benefit  of 
the  light  and  shade  of  the  still  low  sun,  and  the 
surpassing  freshness  of  the  morning  air  to  sharpen 
the  perceptions.  The  road  gradually  ascended  to 
the  Wall,  which  thus  we  saw  for  the  second  time ; 
and  though  it  is  often  said  with  truth  that  a  first 
sight  is  the  most  impressive,  yet  it  was  not  so  in  this 
case,  for  I  must  give  my  verdict  in  favour  of  the 
second.  The  whole  scene  remains  imprinted  on  my 
memory,  and  I  should  always  say  ;  **  If  you  wish  to 
see  this  section  of  the  Wall  to  the  best  effect,  pass 
through  it  from  below."  1  did  not  climb  again,  nor 
was  my  companion  yet  up  with  me  ;  but  I  was  set 
down  for  a  short  time  to  inwardly  digest ;  and  it  is 
just  possible  that  my  now  certain  comfort  of  being 
carried  over  rattling  stones  and  rocks  on  men's 
shoulders,  without  the  jar  of  the  jerking  hoof,  in* 
sensibly  elevated  my  feelings  into  that  generous 
appreciation  of  all  around  which  we  can  so  gene- 
rously give  way  to  when,  for  the  moment,  our  restless 
uneasiness  is  completely  satisfied. 

Just  as  I   had  found  the   approach  to   the   Wall 
from  the  outside  afford  the  most  effective  aspect,  so 


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RETURN   TO  PEKING,  34/ 

I  found  the  descent  of  the  Pass  much  more  effective 
than  the  ascent,  and,  seated  in  my  chair,  I  had  the 
greater  opportunity  of  enjoying  the  lights  and 
shades  of  morning.  But  one  most  impressive  feature 
I  must  not  omit  to  mention  most  particularly — the 
enormous  and  continuous  flow  of  hairy,  two-humped 
camels  on  their  long  way  through  to  Kashgar, 
Mongolia,  and  Russia,  laden  heavily  with  tea.  Add 
to  these  as  many  more  coming  in,  and  thousands  of 
white  sheep,  with  black  heads  and  faces,  also  being 
driven  inwards  from  the  north.  As  on  the  river 
with  the  rice-laden  boats,  so  in  the  Pass  with  the 
animals  and  the  tea- laden  camels.  On  arriving  at  a 
toll  station  we  asked  what  was  the  number  of  camels 
daily  passing  through  during  the  season.  The 
answer  was  remarkable :  "  From  eight  to  nin2 
hundred  daily  on  the  average  ;  but  this  morning  I 
have  already  checked  off  two  thousand."  Yester- 
day had  already  astonished  us  in  this  respect,  but 
this  morning  astounded  us.  There  was  something 
wild  and  exciting  in  the  sight  of  these  camels  :  in 
that  they  were  going  on  a  far,  far  journey,  and  that 
the  tea  they  were  carrying  had  come  all  the  way 
from  Hankow.  The  camels  themselves  also  vividly 
recalled  to  my  mind  those  troops  of  them,  though 
not  so  numerous  as  these,  which  I  had  met  with  in 
the  wild  Khyber  Pass  on  their  road  to  Cabul. 

At  Nankou  we  took  our  tiffin  and  rest,  and  started 
off  for  the  Ta-chiao  Temple  on  our  homeward  road. 
And  here  we  enjoyed  the  occupation  of  the  rooms 
lately  left  by  "his  Excellency  Herr  von  Brandt,  the 
German  Minister,  and  also  some  remarkably  finespeci- 


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348  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

mens  of  the  always  abundantgrapes,and  some  splendid 
water.  But  when  I  speak  of  grapes,  do  not  let  me 
forget  the  fruit  called  Persimmon,  about  the  size 
of  a  small  plum,  and  in  consistency  and  flavour  not 
very  unlike  the  gooseberry  ;  a  most  refreshing  aid 
in  travelling.  What  I  did  not  so  much  enjoy  was 
the  deep-toned  midnight  Buddhist  bell.  But  if  you 
will  seek  shelter  in  religious  precincts,  you  must 
conform  to  religious  proceedings. 

Our  thirty-three  miles  being  thus  accomplished, 
we  woke  up  on  our  fourth  day,  the  15th  of  the 
month,  to  find  our  way  to  Wo-fu-ssu,  or  the  "  Sleep- 
ing Buddha  "  Temple.  This  proved  to  be  a  day  of 
twenty-three  miles,  but  it  was  a  very  varied  one 
among  temples,  and  hard  in  performance,  involving 
a  climb  on  foot  over  a  rocky  mountain.  My  com- 
panion had  suggested  a  round  by  the  Western  Hills 
and  to  sleep  at  the  Ta-pei-ssu,  but  we  thought  it 
better  to  curtail  this  round  and  pass  the  night  at 
Wo-fu-ssu,  visiting  the  Pi-yiin-ssu,  and  returning. 
To  this  arrangement  the  priests  invited  us  in  some- 
thing very  like  a  hospitable  tone.  Suddenly,  how- 
ever, but  not  until  all  our  goods  and  chattels  were 
spread  forth  and  the  beds  laid,  we  were  informed 
that  for  their  thus  proffered  night's  repose  they 
would  expect  us  to  pay  the  modest  sum  of  $20. 
To  this  Mr.  Ludlow,  in  very  quiet  but  decided 
Chinese,  flatly  objected.  Whereupon  the  demand 
suddenly  and  precipitously  tumbled  down  to  $7,  a 
still  exorbitant  sum.  We  would  have  paid  $5,  or 
just  double  what  we  had  hitherto  paid,  but  this  was 
declined.     So  we  lunched,  paying  a  mere  nominal 


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RETURN   TO  PEKING.  349 

occupation  sum,  and  got  into  our  saddles.  Then, 
while  our  men  were  beginning  to  pack,  came  the 
message,  but  all  too  late,  that  the  priests  would  be 
content  with  the  proffered  §5.  They  did  not  get 
more  than  one  quarter  of  that  sum  ;  and  thus,  while 
attempting  to  be  very  wide  awake  while  Buddha 
was  asleep,  they  proved  themselves  to  be  even  more 
asleep  than  he.  In  this  escape,  our  guide,  Ngan 
Chii  Shing,  was  eminently  useful. 

This  reclining  Buddha  (either  of  metal  or  ivory) 
measures  some  thirtj'-six  feet  in  length ;  but  the 
one  I  saw  in  Siam  (though  not  of  either  material) 
measured  126  feet,  lying  with  bended  knees.  Both 
were  surrounded  with  (perhaps)  thousands  of  baby 
Buddhas,  the  personal  offerings  of  pilgrims  :  but  while 
those  in  Siam  were  placed  in  niches  in  the  wall,  these 
were  on  open  shelves. 

Our  next  halt,  at  a  short  distance,  was  at  the 
extraordinary  and  picturesquely  situated  temple,  Pi- 
yiin-ssu.  A  pagoda  of  fine  white  marble,  but  of 
curious  design,  forms  the  chief  architectural  feature. 
But  the  marvellous  contents  of  the  temple  consist 
first  in  the  large  hall  containing  no  less  than  500 
gilded  wise  men,  perhaps  a  little  larger  than  life.  All 
are  in  different  attitudes,  apparently  of  recognition 
of  the  visitor ;  and  of  the  thousand  hands  perhaps 
no  two  are  in  the  same  position.  They  reminded  me 
of  the  corresponding  sight  at  Canton.  Five  hundred  is 
a  large  number  to  call  wise,  and  it  must  be  confessed 
that  there  are  not  many  outward  signs  of  wisdom 
among  the  faces  of  the  multitude.  Then,  in  other 
parts,  are  thousands  of  other  smaller  figures  ;  repre- 


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350  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

sentation  of  hell  and  hell  torments,  of  course  from- 
which  some  slight  hints  might  perhaps  be  taken  even 
by  those  who  are  said  to  be  appointed  below  to  plague 
almost  every  mortal  that  was  ever  born.  Pass  on, 
and  you  come  to  those  who  are  enjoying  happiness  in 
another  quarter.  In  short,  from  first  to  last  the  whole 
place  seems  to  be  alive  with  lifeless  figures  of  all  sorts 
and  sizes. 

It  was  now  time  to  leave  for  the  Ta-pei-ssu  on 
the  Western  Hills,  and  for  this  spot  our  road  lay 
across  rather  rough  country.  These  Western 
Hills  (as  they  are  called)  contain  eight  temples 
dotted  on  the  hill-side  at  various  intervals,  and  it  is 
here  that  the  various  I-egations  are  in  the  habit  of 
retiring  during  the  hot  season.  Some  of  them  are 
perched  high  indeed,  and  if  our  road  was  rough,  so 
indeed  did  I  find  the  steep  paved  approach  even  to 
our  destination,  which  was  by  no  means  the  highest. 
But  in  the  season  these  rough  paths  are  thought 
nothing  of,  and  the  communications  are  cariied  on 
between  the  temples  with  frequency  and  activity ; 
contrasting  strangely,  as  may  be  supposed,  with  the 
abandoned  and  snowy  desolation  of  the  winter.  We 
reached  Ta-pci-ssu  at  evening,  and  thus  completed 
our  fourth  day  and  our  additional  twtnty-three 
miles. 

Now  came  our  fifth  and  last  day,  the  i6th  of 
the  month.  Our  road  to  Peking  would  have  been 
short  and  easy  if  followed  direct,  but  we  considered 
it  quite  worth  while  to  take  a  round  by  the  Summer 
Palace  and  the  Bell  Temple,  or  Ta-chung-ssu.  At 
the  former  great   repairs  are  going  on,  and   much 


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PEKISG  AGA/X.  35 r 

building  also  in  the  close  neighbourhood.  For  the 
present,  the  Summer  Residence,  which  was  burned 
in  1860-6  f,  presents  no  very  inviting  aspect  for  resi- 
dence. The  situation  is  striking.  The  enclosed 
domain  with  all  the  attendant  buildings  occupies 
a  large  cone  or  mound,  which  stands  out  singly  on 
the  plain. 

We  lunched  at  the  Bell  Temple  in  a  remarkably 
pleasing  quadrangle,  and  saw  the  greatest  hanging 
bell  in  the  world,  covered  with  sacred  writing  inside 
and  out.  I  say  the  greatest  hanging  bell,  but  the  bell 
which  I  saw  at  Moscow  is  larger  still,  being  the  largest 
in  the  world.  This,  however,  is  not  a  hanging  bell  ; 
it  fell  in  the  great  fire,  and  remains  where  it  fell. 

And  now  for  Peking  again,  after  a  most  success- 
ful, interesting,  and  pleasant  journey,  occupying  just 
five  days,  during  which,  with  this  day's  seventeen 
miles,  we  had  ridden  125  miles.  The  great  walls 
looked  majestic,  and  now  hospitable,  as  we  approached 
them,  and  we  entered  by  the  Te  Sheng  Men. 

Instead,  however,  of  riding  direct  to  our  destination 
at  Sir  Robert  Hart's,  Mr.  Ludlow  added  further  to 
my  knowledge  of  the  city  by  taking  me  round  by 
the  Drum  Tower,  Coal  Hill,  and  the  Palace  Ground 
and  moat  ;  a.nd  thus  at  last,  still  under  the  guidance 
of  my  indispensable  companion,  I  came  again  to  the 
hospitable  roof  under  which  I  have  passed  so  many 
interesting  hours  of  perfect  liberty  and  repose.  A 
quiet  dinner  and  a  long  quiet  evening  of  conversa- 
tion offered  a  very  pleasant  close  of  my  five  days 
of  lively  interest,  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  of  bodily 
fatigue ;  but  after  a  good  night's  rest,  and  my  coffee 


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352  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/NGS. 

and  grapes,  all  symptoms  of  the  latter  had  disappeared, 
and  left  the  former  unalloyed. 

The  shadow  of  the  day  of  departure  now  began 
to  fall,  and  this  was  fixed  for  early  morning  on  Sun- 
day, the  2 1st  of  September.  Meanwhile,  Sir  Robert 
had  arranged  a  dinner  party  for  me,  although  almost 
all  the  world  were  absent,  and  after  dinner  there  was 
a  vast  amount  of  entertainment  among  all  the 
company  with  the  marvels  of  the  phonograph. 
"  What  next  will  be  invented  ?  "  has  been  a  perpetual 
interrogatory,  and  I  never  forget  a  strange  phrase 
used  by  an  old  home  gardener  when  informed  of 
some  (to  him)  new  horror,  that  "by-and-by  we 
should  be  getting  too  cunnin'  for  God  A'mighty." 
And  there  are  certain  of  a  higher  rank,  too,  that 
labour  under  much  the  same  misgiving. 

On  the  Saturday  afternoon  we  were  regaled  on 
the  lawn  with  a  band  of  music,  conducted  by  a 
Portuguese  bandmaster,  whom  I,  of  course,  invited 
to  a  Portuguese  conversation.  This  band  is  one 
especially  belonging  to  Sir  Robert,  and  is  ex- 
clusively fostered  by  him.  It  plays  every  Satur- 
day, and  the  lawn  is  an  harmonious  scene  of  social 
meeting. 

That  evening  we  had  a  trio  dinner  of  adieu,  Sir 
Robert,  Mr.  Ludlow,  and  I.  The  chair  which 
Sir  Robert  had  sent  for  from  Tung  Ching  had 
arrived,  my  guide  and  servant  had  already  departed, 
and  late  at  night  I  gratefully  bid  my  hospitable  host 
good-bye.  Nor  can  I  better  do  so  again  on  these 
pages  than  by  transcribing  the  acrostic  that  I  ventured 
to  write  in  his  Visitors'  Book  : — 


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FROM  PEKING,  353 

High  sound  and  phrase  may  greet  the  ear, 

And  surface  forces  show  ; 
Repose  and  intercourse  are  here — 

The  forces  lie  below. 

Sunday  morning  came,  arid  with  it  Mr.  Ludlow  to 
shake  hands.  At  five  minutes  past  six  I  was  again 
alone  upon  the  road,  and  at  twenty  minutes  to  eleven 
I  was  at  Tung  Ching. 

Down  the  river  is  generally  easier  than  up,  and  on 
the  Pei-ho  there  was  no  exception  to  this  rule.  It 
cost  me  just  four  days  to  go  up  and  one  day  and 
five  hours,  or  twenty-nine  hours  in  all,  to  come  down. 
At  five  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  23rd,  I  was  at 
the  bridge  at  Tientsin,  and  at  half-past  seven  at  the 
dinner-table  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Detring,  a  pleasure 
that  was  repeated  on  the  following  day.  At  half- 
past  four  on  the  25th  the  same  kind  Commissioner 
sent  his  steam-launch  round  to  the  Astor  House' 
Hotel,  for  which  I  leave  the  very  best  report,  and 
thus  I  came  on  board  the  Chungking^  Captain 
Hughes,  for  an  early  start  next  morning  for  Shang- 
hai. There  we  arrived  about  noon  on  Michaelmas 
Day,  and  having  left  the  Astor  House  at  Tientsin,  I 
resumed  the  Astor  House  at  Shanghai. 


A  a 

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XXXII. 

It  was  now  the  moment  for  arranging  my  con- 
templated excursion  up  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  before 
finally  leaving  Shanghai,  and  well  it  was  for  me  that 
when  I  first  spoke  of  doing  so  the  swollen  river  cried 
"  No."  For  now  I  came  armed  with  a  full  recommen- 
dation from  Sir  Robert  Hart  to  all  his  Commissioners 
at  the  various  ports  to  take  me  under  their  protec- 
tion ;  his  letters,  I  should  observe,  having  already 
gone  before  me,  on  my  having  expressed  to  him, 
while  in  Peking,  my  desire  to  see  the  gorges.  I 
therefore  called  on  Mr.  Bredon,  Sir  Robert's  brother- 
in-law,  and  Commissioner  of  Customs  at  Shanghai, 
who  had  forwarded  the  letters  up  the  river,  and 
again  having  recourse  to  Messrs.  Butterfield  and 
Swire,  Mr.  Bois  furnished  me  with  a  ticket  to  leave 
by  their  S.S.  Peking,  Captain  Batten,  early  on  Wed- 
nesday, the  7th  of  October ;  and  I  was  to  be  on  board 
the  night  before.  My  first  resting  place  was  to  be 
Hankow,  the  limit  of  the  steamer's  course  of  598 
miles ;  and  Mr.  Lay,  the  Commissioner  there,  had 
already  written  that  he  was  expecting  me. 

After  enjoying  the  hospitality  of  our  Consul- 
General,  Mr.  Hughes  and  Mrs.  Hughes,  Mr.  Bredon,  Mr. 
Bois,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Robert  Little,  the  night  of  the 
7th  of  September  found  me  on  board,  and  i  a.m.  on  the 
8th  found  us  in  movement.     As  the  day  opened  the 


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YANG-TSE-KrANG.  355 

enormouswidthandwindingsofthe  uncouth  and  unruly 
river  became  strikingly  apparent,  but  the  banks  were 
all  low  and  flat  and  totally  uninteresting.  Side  creeks 
led  up  into  the  country,  stretching  for  many  miles. 
We  stopped  at  Chinkiang  about  cargo  at  night,  both 
going  and  coming,  so  that  I  had  no  opportunity  of 
landing  there.  The  next  station  was  Wahu,  and  the 
next  Kiukiang,  but  in  both  these  cases  I  had  to  defer 
my  visit  till  my  return,  and  eventually  we  came  to 
Hankow  at  about  II  a.m.  on  the  nth.  Here  Mr. 
Lay  came  on  board,  and  I  was  escorted  to  his  house, 
enjoying  his  and  Mrs.  Lay's  hospitality  till  I  could 
continue  my  journey  to  Ichang,  where  the  excursion 
to  the  gorges  begins.  Every  morning  a  regular  re- 
port was  made  as  to  the  inches  which  the  river  had 
sunk  during  the  twenty-four  hours :  these  two  or 
three  inches  in  so  immense  a  body  representing 
enormous  masses  of  water. 

There  was  some  delay  here  from  an  accident  to  the 
continuing  boat,  the  Kiangtungy  and  various  contra- 
dictory reports  kept  me  in  doubt  as  to  how  I  was  to 
get  on,  until  the  night  of  the  iSth,  when  Mr.  Lay  and 
Mr.  Gardener,  our  Consul,  took  me  on  board  the 
suddenly-appointed  Paohua^  Captain  Lewis,  at  about 
half-past  eleven,  and  we  started  soon  afterwards.  I 
cannot  remember  any  scenery  calling  for  special 
observation  throughout  these  370  miles.  The  general 
feature  was  flatness,  with  agriculture  going  on  by 
help  of  the  European-hating  buffaloes,  who  even  know 
the  stranger  by  the  smell.  On  the  river  itself,  Sha- 
Sze  attracted  attention  by  the  large  assemblage  of 
junks — some  said  a  thousand — lying  off  the  straggling 

A  a  2 


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35^  IVANDER/NGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

town,  which  is  about  to  threaten  Ichang.  We  left 
almost  immediately  after  arrival,  for  the  protective 
laws  would  not  allow  our  vessel,  which  was  not 
Chinese,  to  take  Chinese  passengers. 

We  were  late  in  arriving  at  Ichang  in  consequence 
of  fogs,  but  found  ourselves  at  the  pontoon  on    the 
morning  of  the  19th,  when  the  Count  d'Arnoux,  the 
Commissioner,  came  on  board  and  took  me  to  his 
temple,  where  I  was  introduced  to  the  countess,  and 
spent  the  day.     To  show  how  much  is  wanting  still 
to   develop   these   treaty  ports,   not   only   was   this 
templethe  onlypossible  place  of  residence  for  the  Com- 
missioner, but  it  was  scarcely  large  enough  to  hold  even 
him.     However,  though  the  Kiangtung  was  not  fit 
for  steaming,  she  was  good  for  sleeping,  and  the  good 
Captain  Yankowski,  then  very  ill  and  since   dead, 
granted  me  a  bed.     In  the  afternoon  we  walked  out 
with  Consul  Fraser  and   Dr.   Aldridge,  and  saw  the 
site  chosen  by  Mr.  Marshall  for  the  new  residence  he 
had  designed  ;  and  a  strange  walk  part  of  it  was. 
An  extensive  old  Chinese  burial-ground  consisted  of 
nothing  but  huge  mounds,  each  apparently  contain- 
ing perhaps  a  score  of  bodies,  and  on  the  other  side 
was  a  large  dead  pool  of  water.     In  the  distance 
beyond  there  rose  a  range  of  picturesque  hills,  and  on 
one  of  them  appeared  a  tower  of  peculiar  origin.     On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  stream   from  Ichang,  you 
must  know,  there  is  a  very  curious  and  regular  line 
of  successive   pyramidal  hills,  very  striking  to   the 
stranger's  eye.     But  the  inhabitants  persuaded  them- 
selves that  the  largest,  and  therefore  the  most  attrac- 
tive of  these  was  an  evil — had  an  evil  eye — to  the 


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YANG-TSE-KIANG.  357 

town.  So  they  did  not  attempt  to  lower  it,  or  to 
pull  It  down,  but  built  the  tower  I  have  mentioned  to 
counteract  its  evil  influence.  More  refined  supersti- 
tions, however,  might  appear  to  the  Ichangese  quite 
as  ridiculous  as  may  this  to  ourselves  who  assume 
to  be  the  enlightened. 

I  learned  that  the  proper  season  for  visiting 
Ichang,  and  therefore  the  gorges,  is  the  month  of 
April.  All  is  then  green,  and  flowers  are  spangled 
everywhere ;  nor  is  the  river  too  high  or  too  low. 
In  this  particular  feature  October  corresponds,  but 
it  is  brown  and  colourless,  as  I  found  it  to  be,  instead 
of  green  and  spangled. 

The  count,  having  received  Sir  Robert's  letter,  had 
very  kindly  at  once  set  all  things  in  order  for  me, 
and  everything  was  in  readiness  for  my  start  on  the 
following  day,  the  20th.  Sir  Robert  had  suggested 
that  the  Count  might  possibly  be  my  companion,  but 
this  being  otherwise,  he  considerately  found  another 
in  the  person  of  Mr.  Balharry,  one  of  the  staff",  who 
happily  was  young,  bright,  and  cheerful,  and  kept  up 
life  all  through. 

Our  boat  lay  close  below  the  steps,  and  for  this 
night  I  slept  on  board  at  once.  Mr.  Balharry  joined 
in  the  morning,  and  we  crossed  over  to  Shipa 
Island,  waiting  for  our  cook,  who  had  gone  to  make 
purchases.  At  half-past  eight  on  the  20th  we 
began  our  excursion  to  the  gorges.  The  scenery 
was  pleasing  until  half-past  eleven,  when  we  turned 
suddenly  to  the  left  and  entered  the  Ichang  Gorge. 
This  offered  a  very  long  perspective  of  mountainous 
banks  blocked  to  the  eye  at  the  far  end  by  a  large 


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3S8  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

massive  group.  The  October  want  of  colour  was 
evident  all  round,  the  masses  were  rather  uncouth 
than  impressive,  and  sloped  off  raggedly.  In  particu- 
lar, for  the  word  "  gorge "  the  river  was  too  wide. 
Some  one  or  two  of  the  precipices  might  be  called 
fine.  At  about  2  p.m.  we  came  to  the  Pin-San- Pah 
Station,  and  continued  till  dusk  as  far  as  below  the 
village  of  Lantoo. 

Our  modes  of  moving  were  various:  there  were 
long  oars,  there  was  the  breeze,  and  there  was  the 
tracking  of  the  men  on  the  sloping,  ragged  sides  with 
ropes.  We  had  fifteen  altogether.  They  fed,  slept, 
and  worked  in  the  front,  making  noise  enough,  and 
the  pulling  in  and  out  of  the  wet  cord  according  to 
the  tracking  was  not  a  little  tiresome.  Rice  was 
their  exclusive  food,  cooked  by  their  own  cook  in 
front ;  rice,  like  corn  to  horses,  or  grass  to  cows. 
But  we  had  a  scene  the  very  first  evening.  One  of 
the  men  wanted  to  desert,  and  he  was  followed,  seized, 
punished,  and  brought  back  to  duty.  In  this  small 
episode  you  might  gather  the  style  of  Chinese  punish- 
ment and  of  Chinese  want  of  sensibility.  It  is  im- 
possible they  can  feel  like  other  people.  At  home 
the  exhibition  would  have  represented  "attempt  to 
murder,'^  but  the  man  came  back  and  forgot  it  all  at 
once. 

On  the  2 1st  we  started  at  about  six  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  in  very  fine,  fresh  weather.  The  character  of 
the  scenery  I  have  marked  was  increasing  in  bulk  and 
variety,  but  coarse  in  kind,  and  the  river  always  wide. 
At  eight  o'clock  we  breasted  on  our  right  what  is  called 
"The  Needle  of  Heaven."     It  is  a  fine  individual 


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YANG'TSE'KIANG.  359 

Striking  object,  and  is  given  as  of  2000  feet  in  height. 
After  passing  this  the  scenery  became  tamer,  and, 
indeed,  I  have  marked  tiresome  ;  but  a  small  inci- 
dent aroused  us.  Our  rope  broke  in  tracking.  We 
were  not,  however,  carried  down  the  stream ;  that  was 
somehow  managed  ;  and  on  coming  to  a  place  called 
by  the  euphonious  name  of  Huanglien  Mien,  an 
enormous  purchase  of  new  material  was  made,  includ- 
ing some  of  alarming  thickness.  These  ropes  are  of 
bamboo,  which  alone  is  capable  of  withstanding  the 
friction  and  the  snatching,  as  the  men  on  shore  track 
along  the  spreads  of  ugly  rocks.  At  dusk  we  were 
at  San-to-pin,  and  stopped  for  our  second  day. 

On  the  22nd  we  started  at  seven,  and  to-day  we 
passed  up  the  Tatung  Rapid,  but  without  particular 
feature,  and  several  rather  rushing  corners  gave  us  a 
little  trouble ;  time  lost,  noise  and  wet  ropes  being 
unpleasant.  But,  in  compensation,  a  good  breeze 
sprang  up  afterwards,  and  we  covered  a  good 
space. 

It  was  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  this 
day  that  we  came  in  perspective  sight  of  the  entrance 
to  the  Lukan  Gorge.  This  entrance  is  considered  to 
present  the  finest  scene  on  the  river,  and  I  quite  con- 
cur in  this  opinion.  As  we  approached  it  it  looked 
really  fine  and  mysterious,  and  it  offers  the  only  really 
first-class  piece  of  scenery  that  I  found  on  the  river. 
The  effect  was  also  increased  by  two  small  white  sails 
under  the  cliffs  at  the  moment.  I  believe  my  com- 
panion would  say  the  same.  It  is  true  that  it  lies  rather 
at  an  angle  as  you  approach  it,  the  effect  of  which  is 
that  the  river  appears  narrower  than  it  really  turns 


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3^0  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

out  to  be  when  you  come  close  up.  But  this  may 
pass.  What  is  quite  disappointing  is  the  gorge  itself 
when  entered,  for  the  mountains  fall  away  upon 
your  left,  the  river's  right,  and  let  in  a  vast  amount  of 
breadth  and  light.  The  whole  gorge,  running  into 
the  Mittan  Gorge,  offers  the  best  run  of  scenery,  but 
it  has  been  grossly  exaggerated  in  some  of  the  de- 
scriptions of  it,  justifiable  only  if  written  by  persons 
who  had  seen  but  little  else  besides  the  rest  of  the 
river,  or  (say)  Shanghai,  of  which  it  has  been  declared, 
almost  too  severely,  that  it  has  nothing  higher  than  a 
mole-hill,  unless  it  is  a  grave. 

On  our  fourth  day  we  started  at  six  o'clock  and 
came  to  the  Shintan  Rapid,  and  reached  the  Yatan 
Rapid,  standing  second  in  the  crowd  for  the  morning's 
haul  ;  and  on  the  next,  or  fifth  day,  we  came  in  sight 
of  Patan  and  a  pagoda  ;  and  here  we  turned  round. 
After  the  scenery  of  the  Lukan  and  the  Mittan,  which 
I  have  mentioned,  there  was  nothing  worthy  of  special 
remark.  In  coming  down,  perhaps,  some  parts  of  the 
river  looked  more  impressive  than  in  going  up,  and 
that  is  all  I  can  say.  What  did  impress  me  was  the 
quiet  and  imperceptible  manner  in  which  we  were 
rapidly  carried  down  to  Ichang,  and  the  quiet,  con- 
temptuous manner  in  which  the  stream  completely 
turned  our  boat  about  among  some  harmless  eddies. 
And  what  is  that  diminutive  model  of  a  boat  with 
paraphernalia  floating  on  the  water,  and  looking  like 
a  nursery  toy  1  It  is  there  to  float  about  and  com- 
memorate, so  long  as  it  will  last,  some  fatal  accident 
in  the  floods,  and  it  represents  a  usual  practice. 

It  was  on  the  25th,  at  noon,  that  we  turned,  and  at 


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YANG-TSE'KIANG.  3^1 

one  on  the  26th,  after  resting  a  whole  ni^ht  below  the 
Lukan,  and  spending  forty  minutes  at  San  Yu  Tung, 
we  were  at  Ichang.  We  could  not  have  been  more 
than  twelve  hours  on  the  water.  San  Yu  Tung  is  a 
natural  cave  turned  into  a  temple,  and  with  its  rude 
centre  rock  looks  like  a  rather  clumsy  chapter-house. 
On  arriving,  I  immediately  sought  shelter  at  the 
former  refuge,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  had  a  quiet 
sail  upon  the  river,  up  to  the  entrance  to  the  Ichang 
Gorge,  and,  viewed  in  this  quiet  manner,  without  the 
exaggerated  fuss  that  had  been  made  about  it,  it  really 
looked  important  in  proportion. 

One  more  day  and  we  dined  with  the  Consul ;  on 
Monday  night  I  bade  farewell  to  my  hospitable 
friends  and  went  on  board  the  Kiangtung.  At  two 
in  the  morning  of  the  28tb,  I  was  unconsciously 
moved  off,  and  on  the  29th,  in  a  very  fine  morning,  I 
was  again  shaking  hands  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lay  at 
Hankow.  It  was  here  that,  on  looking  through  some 
newspapers,  I  came  upon  a  telegraphic  paragraph 
from  London,  headed,  "  Death  of  a  Man  of  Note." 
My  friend  of  many  years,  and  my  colleague,  not  com- 
petitor, in  translation,  Captain  Sir  Richard  Burton,  had 
gone.  Linked  with  some  foes  and  with  a  thousand 
friends,  this  indefatigable  author  and  explorer  was, 
perhaps,  too  independent  of  public  opinion  to  be  con- 
ventionally popular  and  to  be  fairly  recognized  and  - 
rewarded.  His  papers  showed  that  he  was  on  the 
point  of  writing  to  me  in  answer  to  my  letter  on  the 
subject  of  my  visit  to  Macao  ;  but  the  letter  was  never 
written  :  *'  Flere  et  me'minisse  relicium  est,'' 

On  the  evening  of  the  30th  we  all  dined  with    Mr. 


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362  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

and  Mrs.  Smith,  and  met  Captain  Shaw,  of  the 
Gnankin^  with  whom  I  was  to  sail  that  night  for 
Shanghai,  so  that  I  was  safe,  and  at  half-past  ten  I 
went  on  board  with  him.  This  time  I  did  not  miss 
Kiukiang — ^**  Nine  Rivers  " — and  had  the  pleasure  of 
enjoying  some  hours  with  M.  de  Bernifere  and  his 
family,  regretting  not  to  have  seen  madame  also. 
Everything  looked  gay,  especially  a  splendid  show  of 
chrysanthemums,  and  I  was  sorry  at  not  being  able 
to  make  a  longer  stay.  One  little  incident  consider- 
ably amused  me  here.  A  Mr.  Currie,  in  the  Customs, 
was  changing  to  Wufu,  and  as  he  was  very  popular, 
an  enormous  number  of  crackers  were  (more  popu- 
lorum)  discharged  as  he  came  off ;  but  a  good  lady 
on  board,  knowing  nothing  of  all  this,  was  highly 
indignant  at  the  interruption,  and  we  found  her  want- 
ing to  know  "  what  all  this  disgraceful  noise  meant." 
So  that,  for  want  of  knowing  what  was  really  going 
on,  an  affectionate  farewell  was  condemned  as  dis- 
graceful. There  are  corresponding  cases  in  life  of 
very  much  more  consequence. 

At  Wahu  it  was  again  my  lot  to  be  very  plea- 
santly entertained  by  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Spinney,  with  a 
walk  and  a  visit  to  the  garden,  which  Mrs.  Spinney 
took  care  to  have  dressed  under  her  own  special  care. 
In  China  this  is  very  important.  The  Chinese  are  ex- 
cellent gardeners,  but  the  unwholesome  modes  they 
pursue  of  manuring  the  ground  are  mischievous  both 
to  the  air  and  to  the  vegetable  as  an  edible.  Passing 
Chinkiang  again  by  night,  I  was  at  the  Astor  House, 
Shanghai,  in  the  afternoon  of  the  2nd  of  November. 

Thus  ended  my  visit  to  the  so-called  goi^es.  Gorges 


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YANG-TSE'KIANG,  363 

they  are  not,  for  the  river  (as  I  have  said)  is  always 
wide.  I  went  about  a  thousand  miles  up  to  begin 
them,  and  taking  my  excursion  altogether,  as  it  was 
laid  out  for  me,  I  would  not  on  any  account  have 
missed  it.  That  I  was  disappointed  in  the  scenery 
is  most  true,  chiefly  from  exaggerated  reports  in 
Shanghai  and  elsewhere,  and  by  illustrations  worked 
up  in  London  from  verbal  boastings.  Observe  what 
I  was  told  of  the  Lukan  Gorge :  that  you  entered  a 
completely  dark  defile,  and  that  only  after  proceed- 
ing some  distance  a  vertical  silver  seam  of  light  began 
to  appear,  and  gradually  expanded  into  day.  When 
people  grossly  exaggerate  scenery  they  do  not  seem 
to  understand  that  they  are  misrepresenting  just  as 
much  as  if  they  were  passing  off  silver  for  gold.  If 
you  ask  me  whether  I  would  recommend  you  to  go 
up  a  thousand  miles  of  river  simply  and  solely  to 
see  these  "gorges,"  without  such  introductions  as 
charmed  and  adorned  my  path,  my  unhesitating 
answer  would  be  "  No." 


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XXXIII. 

The  one  remaining  Asiatic  excursion  I  had  now  to 
make  was  that  to  the  great  temple  of  Nakhon  Wat  in 
Cambodia,  ^nd  in  order  to  accomphsh  this,  for  which 
I  had  waited  one  year,  occupied  as  above,  I  must 
get  down  to  Hongkong  in  time  for  the  French  boat 
that  would  touch  at  Saigon,  sailing  from  Hongkong 
on  the  20th  of  November.  To  Mr.  Bois,  therefore,  I 
again  appealed  for  a  safe  passage,  who  furnished  me 
with  a  ticket  by  the  Menelans  to  sail  on  the  9th,  and 
promised  me  the  launch  to  go  off  in.  This  would 
still  give  me  time  to  touch  at  Foochow  in  hopes  of  yet 
seeing  the  famous  river,  and  I  therefore  telegraphed  to 
say  I  was  coming,  and  received  for  answer,  "  Come." 
Bidding  all  friends  good-bye,  therefore,  on  the 
night  of  the  8th,  I  went  on  board  to  stop  at  Foochow, 
and  passing  out  by  Woosung,  beheld  a  sight  of 
twelve  old-fashioned  war-junks  in  a  row.  All  was 
fair  for  some  time,  but  presently  the  sea  began  to 
roll,  or  rather,  perhaps,  to  make  the  Menelaus  do  so, 
and  a  bad  night  we  had.  But  I  was  quite  content  to 
be  tumbled  about  for  the  result  that  ensued,  for  the 
boisterous  weather  had  filled  the  waters  with  their 
phosphoric  propensity — whatever  the  cause  may  be — 
and  when  we  slowed  down  at  about  two  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  loth,  I  looked  out  and  saw  what  I  had  so 
longed  wished  to  see,  the  spread  of  phosphoric  light 


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CAMBODIA.  365 

all  over  the  ocean.  It  must  not  be  understood,  how- 
ever, that  there  Is  one  widespread  sheet  of  this  light, 
as  I  must  admit  I  had  conjectured  from  descriptions. 
It  is  only  the  breakers,  or  "  white  horses,"  that  show 
the  phosphorus.  This  is,  of  course,  grand  and 
astonishing  enough,  but  not  if  you  expect  the  other. 
Certainly,  in  our  case,  the  wind  being  high  and  the  sea 
very  rough,  the  breakers  were  most  abundant  and  the 
night  scene  was  magical,  extending  to  the  very  offing. 

On  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  beautiful  pagoda 
anchorage  at  Foochow,and  I  went  to  find  Mr.  Pim. 
He  was  absent,  and  Mr.  Oswald  had  kindly  replied,  not 
wishing  to  disappoint  me.  But  how  many  difficulties 
are  in  the  way  of  doing  easy  things !  If  I  went  up  the 
river  I  could  not  continue  in  the  MenelauSy  and  if  I 
did  not  continue  in  the  Menelaus  there  would  not  be 
another  boat  to  Hongkong  in  time  to  catch  the 
Saigon  steamer.  So  I  had  to  give  up  the  Foochow 
river  entirely,and  contented  myself  with  the  shorter  ex- 
cursion to  Kushan,  and  its  rocks,  priests,  and  temples, 
which  made  up  a  very  pleasant  day  on  the  12th  :  and 
after  being  Mr.  Oswald's  guest  until  late  that  night, 
he  insisted  on  accompanying  me  on  board,  to  sail  in 
the  morning,  giving  me — an  immense  gift  in  China — 
two  bottles  of  fresh  milk  from  his  own  dairy,  which  I 
had  visited  and  appreciated  on  shore,  and  also  con- 
ceding me  ten  pounds  of  crack  chop  Pan  Yong  tea, 
a  district  100  miles  from  Foochow. 

We  sailed  at  8.45  on  the  morning  of  the  13th, 
touching  at  Swatow  on  the  following  day.  The 
entrance  is  picturesque,  but  certainly  not  equal  either 
to  that  of  Foochow  or  Amoy.     At  four  o'clock  of  the 


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366  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

same  afternoon  we  sailed  for  Hongkong,  and  when 
I  left  Swatow  I  took  my  final  leave  of  China, 
the  Empire  of  the  Brother  of  the  Sun  and  Moon. 
We  were  at  Hongkong  at  nine  the  next  morning, 
and  the  weather  contributed  to  adorn  the  entrance, 
but  the  colours  of  earth  and  sky  were  now  russet  and 
blue,  for  the  brown  of  winter  had  superseded  the 
green  of  summer. 

My  first  object  at  Hongkong  was  to  secure  a  pas- 
sage for  myself  and  servant  to  Saigon  by  the  French 
steamer,  and  this  I  did  at  once  by  the  Natal^  Captain 
Bretel,  to  sail  on  Thursday,  the  20th.  In  the  mean- 
time I  was  honoured  by  a  visit  from  Dr.  L.  P.  Marques, 
and  Senhor  J.C  da  Cunha  of  the  Bibliotheca  Lusitana 
de  Hongkong,  who  generously  hailed  me  as  trans- 
lator of  their  great  national  epic  poem,  "  Os  Lusiadas," 
by  Luis  de  Camoes,  invited  me  to  pay  their  club  a 
visit,  presented  me  with  a  handsome  volume  of  views 
in  Macao,  and  have  since  honoured  me  farther  by 
electing  me  an  honorary  member  of  their  Society,  of 
which  degree  they  have  lately  sent  me  an  illuminated 
diploma.  This  patriotic  body  of  Portuguese,  though 
not  numerous,  cherish  in  connection  with  their  colony 
at  Macao  the  name  and  fame  of  an  author  whose 
presence  has  sanctified  that  scene,  and  of  whom 
their  nation  is  most  justly  proud.  They  conduct  their 
club  with  energy,  publish  a  Portuguese  journal 
entitled  0  Extremo  Oriente^  and  are  ever  alive  to 
maintain  their  nationality.  Macao,  it  will  be  remem- 
bered, was  given  to  the  Portuguese  in  1586,  by  the 
then  Emperor  of  China,  in  return  for  assistance  afforded 
by  them  against  pirates  who  had  infested  the  coast. 


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CAMBODIA.  367 

Wc  made  a  rapid  passage  to  Saigon,  arriving  there 
at  midnight  of  the  22nd.  Consul  Tremlett,  whose 
acquaintance  (as  already  mentioned)  I  had  made  in 
Yokohama,  sent  for  me,  and  I  was  conducted  to  the 
*'  Hotel  de  TUnivers,"  afterwards  dining  with  him  and 
his  partner,  Mr.  Detmering,  the  brother  of  Mr.  Detmer- 
ing  at  Canton. 

My  ticket  for  Pnom  Penh  and  beyond  being  secured 
in  the  Phuoc  Kien,  Captain  Bouillet,  which  was  to  sail 
on  the  night  of  the  25th,  I  passed  my  intermediate  two 
evenings  in  driving  about  with  Mr.  Tremlett.  The 
French  have  made  a  good,  decent  town,  and  have,  as 
usual,  planted  avenues  of  trees  everywhere,  but 
everything  all  round  is  as  flat  as  a  sheet  of  paper,  and 
one  cannot  help  wondering  whatever  induced  them 
to  take  possession  of  the  place.  However,  there  they 
are,  and  they  make  the  best  of  it,  so  far  as  outside 
show  is  concerned.  The  public  gardens,  or  park 
afford  a  very  pleasing  evening  drive,  and  plenty  of 
carriages  are  to  be  found  there.  The  climate  cannot 
but  be  depressing,  and  the  soil  produces  large  crops  of 
very  excellent  rice.  This  refers  to  Cochin  China,  of 
which  Saigon  is  the  capital,  and  which  the  French 
have  held  absolutely  since  1867  ;  but  they  have  other 
projects  in  view. 

On  getting  on  board  the  Phuoc  Kien,  I  found  two 
young  Frenchmen  were  coming  on  the  same  excursion 
as  myself:  M.  Laffbnt,  of  the  India  and  China  Bank, 
and  M.  Furiet,  Aide-Commissaire  de  la  Marine.  They, 
like  me,  had  made  all  their  separate  arrangements, 
but  we  became  companions  nevertheless  all  through, 
and  so  far  as  I  myself  was  concerned,  with  great  con- 


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368  WANDERINGS  AND   WONDER/NGS, 

sequent  advantage ;  nor  have  I  reason  to  doubt  that 
this  feeh'ng  was  mutual. 

Our  first  night  was  certainly  not  pleasant.  We 
had  to  make  a  round  to  get  into  the  Mecon,  on  which 
Pnom  Penh,  the  capital  of  Cambodia,  is  situated  ; 
and  although  we  came  through  some  inner  course  to 
avoid  the  turbulent  shallows,  we  rolled  so  far  on  our 
beam  ends  that  our  cabins  were  deluged  with  water. 
However,  on  the  large  river  we  were  quite  quiet. 
Nor  was  it  likely  that  I  should  here  fail  to  think  of 
Camoens ;  for  it  was  on  the  Mecon  that  he  was 
nearly  drowned,  swimming  to  shore  with  one  hand, 
while  he  held  his  poems  in  the  other. 

And  Mecon  shall  the  drowning  poetry 
Receive  upon  its  breast,  benign  and  bland, 
Coming  from  shipwreck  and  from  misery, 
'Scaped  from  the  stormy  shallows  to  the  land  ; 
From  famines,  dangers  great,  when  there  shall  be 
Enforced  with  harshness  the  unjust  command 
On  him  for  whom  his  loved  harmonious  lyre 
Shall  more  of  fame  than  happiness  acquire. 

Lustads,  Cant.  X.,  St.  cxxviii. 

Our  course  up  the  river,  larger  than  the  Pei-ho,  but 
not  so  large  as  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  was  calm  and 
uneventful,  and  we  arrived  at  Pnom  Penh  on  the 
27th.  Here  I  had  to  pass  the  afternoon  and  night, 
save  that  I  paid  a  visit  to  Mr.  Meyer  with  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Tremlett  about  a  guide.  The  person  in- 
tended was  ill,  and  sent  his  son,  and  he  embarked 
accordingly  in  the  morning.  As  for  the  night,  I  think 
it  was  the  noisiest  I  ever  passed — cargo  and  cries 
till  very  sunrise. 


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CAMBODIA.  369 

Here  we  left  the  Mecon,  and  turning  to  the  north- 
west, made  up  another  river  flowing  from  the  Tale 
Sab  Lake,  some  short  distance  from  which  Siem  Riep 
lies.  This  stream  showed  remarkable  masses  of  thick 
creeping  plants  which  entirely  covered  the  riverside 
trees  like  canopies,  and  the  woods  were  peopled  by 
flocks  of  white  birds  of  a  very  elegant  form,  called 
here  aigrettes.  They  are  killed  for  their  feathers  ; 
but  my  young  French  friends  were  pretty  active  with 
their  guns  without  a  hope  of  any  such  profit  from 
them.  They  flew  in  circles  far  and  near  about  the 
steamer,  and  into  the  solitary  forest  again,  generally 
choosing  a  dead  tree  to  settle  on,  and  looking  in  the 
short  distance  like  a  profusion  of  large  white  blossoms 
growing  on  the  barren  branches. 

At  last  the  steamer  anchored  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  and  we  all  three,  with  my  servant  and  guide, 
disembarked  in  a  large  sampan.  Presently  we  came 
to  a  sort  of  custom-house,  where  we  had  to  find  small 
boats  to  go  up  the  creek,  and  very  luckily  they  were 
found  ;  but  this  is  a  sort  of  venture,  and  should 
there  be  half  a  dozen  passengers,  notice  should  be 
sent  beforehand.  We  punted  and  pushed  up  the 
narrow  creek  till  we  came  to  an  uncouth  village, 
where  carts  and  buffaloes  had  to  be  found,  as  the 
creek  failed  us.  The  Frenchmen's  equipage  was 
there,  and  so  was  a  chance  cart  for  me;  but  all  the 
buffaloes  were  out  grazing.  At  last  two  came  loung- 
ing in  and  were  yoked,  and  I  jumbled  along,  and 
joined  my  companions  at  Siem  Riep.  There  I  armed 
myself  with  my  letter,  and  we  all  crossed  over  the 
water  to  call  on  the  Governor.     Besides  my  letter  I 

B  b 


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370  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

took  over  also  a  one-dozen  case  of  champagne  as  a 
lubricating  present,  the  hotel-keeper  having  most 
disinterestedly  advised  me  that  the  demie  would  not 
serve,  and  my  grand  letter  demanding  corresponding 
largess  ;  but  by  the  look  of  the  man,  I  should  doubt 
whether  he  had  ever  even  heard  of  champagne  !  He 
had  been  out  fishing,  and  was  taking  his  tea  in  his 
ragged-looking  costume  and  ragged  dwelling,  and 
the  arrangement  of  the  tea  was  curious.  There  was 
a  tray  with  six  small  cups,  full,  and  fixed  in  position  ; 
when  he  had  sipped  and  finished  one,  he  went  to  the 
other,  and  so  on  to  the  end,  while  we  were  being 
interpreted.  He  was  very  civil — Minister's  letter 
and  champagne  combining — and  arranged  trotting 
bullocks  and  small  carts  and  drivers  for  us,  and  away 
we  went.  The  road  was  luckily  a  sandy  woodland 
road.  We  were  more  or  less  under  trees  of  one  sort 
or  another  all  the  way,  and  there  was  no  jerking. 
By-and-by  we  came  in  view  of  the  great  width  of 
the  vast  and  most  elaborate  temple  crowned  with  its 
five  elaborate  towers.  Turning  sharply  to  the  right, 
we  stood  in  full  front  to  it,  still  some  distance  away, 
and  about  half  way  up  the  broad,  flat-stoned  approach 
to  it  we  found  a  large  bamboo  building  among  trees, 
where  visitors  find  lodging.  Here  we  all  assembled, 
and  forthwith  walked  up  to  take  a  first  survey  of 
outside  aspect,  courts  and  corridors. 

Stand  and  gaze  for  a  time,  and  then  walk  in.  This 
is  the  Temple  of  Nakhon  Wat,  or  "  the  Temple  of 
the  City,"  and  I  really  think  that  that  must  be  about 
the  beginning  and  the  end  of  my  description  of  it 
You  must  consult  Fergusson,  and  study  his  illustra- 


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CAMBODIA.  371 

tions.  One  very  striking  feature  of  the  mighty  pile 
was  presented  to  me  at  once — for  I  was  there  some 
short  time  before  the  others — namely,  the  unlimited 
amount  of  detail — details  in  ornament  of  every 
variety,  and  on  every  possible  surface,  as  well  as 
bassi  relievi  in  the  corridors  ;  and  my  attention  was 
particularly  drawn  to  this  at  once  by  finding  a  M. 
Raffegeaud  on  the  spot,busily  engaged  with  workmen 
in  taking  large  careful  models  of  various  devices. 
He  told  me  he  was  resident  there  for  a  certain  period, 
having  been  commissioned  by  some  French  archi- 
tectural and  antiquarian  society  to  secure  a  hand- 
some collection  for  Paris. 

With  all  our  delays  we  had  arrived  from  Pnom 
Penh  in  plenty  of  time  to  give  us  a  good  afternoon 
at  the  temple  ;  and  on  my  own  behalf  I  at  once  took 
a  quiet  walk  completely  round  the  colonnades.  The 
general  effect  is  perhaps  scarcely  so  finished  as  is 
indicated  by  Fergusson's  woodcuts,  373  and  374  ;  but 
the  bassi  relievi  on  the  inside  walls  all  round  are  truly 
astonishing.  Fergusson  estimates  the  whole  length 
of  these  to  represent  2000  feet,  and  to  contain  from 
18,000  to  20,G00  figures  of  all  sorts.  I  walked  round 
the  four  colonnades  more  than  once,  and  agree  with 
Fergusson  that  they  are  probably  the  most  remark- 
able features  of  this  temple.  But  really  all  is  remark- 
able, above  as  well  as  below.  I  do  not  quite  gather 
whether  Fergusson  ever  personally  visited  the  temple, 
or  whether  his  very  minute  description  is  collected 
from  authorities  whom  he  has  consulted.  A  sentence 
or  two  leave  this  doubtful.  But  if  he  has  been  there,  I 
am  surprised  he  overlooked  one  remarkable  feature 

ii  b  2 


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3^2  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDBRINGS. 

in  the  sculptures,  which  very  strongly  supports  his 
view  that  the  temple  belongs  to  the  snake  worship  and 
has  not  a  trace  of  Buddhism.  No  one  going  over  the 
building  could  avoid  becoming  his  disciple  in  this 
estimation.  The  serpent  is  everywhere,  and  what  is 
called  the  "seven  heads"  looked  to  me  like  the 
**capello;"  but  in  one  of  the  long  colonnades  or 
corridors— the  third,  I  think,  beginning  on  the  right 
as  you  enter — there  is  one  long,  huge  serpent  stretch- 
ing from  end  to  end,  and  being  carried  on  the 
shoulders  or  under  the  arms  of  a  whole  army  of 
hundreds  of  figures.  What  Buddha  can  have  to 
do  with  this  remains  to  be  shown.  The  allusion  to 
Ramisseram  is  juat ;  its  outside  is  entirely  unshapely, 
while  Nakhon  Wat  speaks  loudly  indeed  for  itself  in 
this  respect.  But  it  remains  to  be  said  that,  as  regards 
the  corridors  of  Ramisseram,  there  is  nothing  in  those 
at  Nakhon  Wat  that,  for  me,  can  compare  with  them 
in  architectural  effect.  Fergusson's  detailed  descrip- 
tion seems  to  bring  the  building  vividly  back  to 
memory,  and  the  whole  tone  of  the  structure  dis- 
sociates itself  entirely  from  my  associations  with 
Buddhist  structures.  I  know  that  when  on  the  next 
day  we  visited  the  forests,  now  growing  where  the 
city  of  Nakhon  Thom,  or  Ankor  Thom,  once  stood, 
and  came  upon  a  large  statue  of  Buddha,  the  sight 
was  totally  incongruous  with  my  then  pervading 
impressions,  and  he  seemed  to  be  a  vulgar  intruder. 

But  in  aid  of  all  the  impressions  that  a  general 
survey  of  the  whole  gigantic  structure  and  a  close 
examination  of  its  marvellous  details  may  produce, 
comes  the  still  dark  question.  Who  were  the  people 


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CAMBODIA.  373 

that  dwelt  and  built  ?  For  none  are  near  that  can  be 
even  alluded  to  in  discussing  such  a  question.  There- 
fore, throughout  the  whole  scene  there  pervades  a 
hallowing  atmosphere  of  mystery,  with  which,  in 
these  now  overgrown  solitudes,  imagination  might 
be  tempted  to  toy,  for  the  luxury  of  indulging  in 
the  supernatural. 

We  dined  off  our  provender  and  wine,  and  passed 
our  night  very  fairly  in  the  bamboo  house,  bamboo 
poles  floor  and  all,  and  prepared  ourselves  for  an 
early  bullock  trot  to  the  site  of  the  old  city,  Ongkor 
Thom,  or  Nakhon  Thom.  For  this  we  made  an  early 
morning  start  between  five  and  six.  Our  soft  sandy 
road  lay  through  a  perpetual  and  luxuriant  forest, 
with  now  and  then  an  exhibition  of  gigantic  trees,  all 
strange — strange  underwood,  strange  sounds  of  birds' 
notes.  After  about  twenty  minutes*  drive,  we  came 
to  doubtless  the  most  majestic  piece  of  overgrown 
ruin  that  I  ever  beheld.  It  was  the  high  arched, 
massive  south  gate  of  the  old  city.  It  was  very 
lofty,  broken,  but  not  fallen,  and  not  truncated.  On 
the  contrary,  it  was  heightened,  and  adorned  from 
the  top  throughout  by  the  beautiful  and  copious 
embraces  of  its  luxuriant  destroyers.  If  anyone 
desires  to  see  a  noble  specimen  of  wild  green  nature 
adorning  and  triumphing  over  ruined  art,  here  it 
is.  Passing  under  it,  we  entered  somewhat  farther 
into  the  depths  of  the  forest,  and  came  to  the  vast 
ruins  of  Baion.  What  this  was  at  one  time,  it  is 
almost  a  pleasure  to  feel  the  impossibility  of  under- 
standing. It  is  said  to  have  been  more  magnificent 
than  Nakhon  Wat  itself;  but  the  same  wild  growth 


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374  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS.    . 

that  I  have  already  referred  to  prevails  here,  and  it 
is  most  surprising  to  observe  how  branches  and 
runners  have  gradually  intruded  between  enormous 
blocks,  pushing  them  out  of  place,  and  revelling  in 
an  adorning  destruction.  All  seemed  a  confusion  of 
the  majesty  of  ruin,  for  all  showed  size  and  power  ; 
and  for  myself^  I  did  my  best  to  keep  my  mind  in 
the  intoxication  of  admiration.  We  returned  by 
about  eleven  to  breakfast,  and  had  the  whole  of  the 
rest  of  the  day  at  our  disposal  under  the  brow  of 
Nakhon  Wat. 

On  Monday,  the  ist  of  December,  Mr.  Raffegeaud 
breakfasted  with  us,  and  we  left  for  Siem  Riep  in  our 
charettes  in  the  afternoon,  and  slept  there.  All  was 
in  order  (in  Siem  Riep  order)  to  receive  us,  and  the 
Governor  sent  me  an  extensive  present  of  live  ducks 
and  chickens,  which  I  had  no  misgiving  in  accepting 
to  be  killed,  seeing  that  I  totally  disbelieved  in  the 
temple  we  had  visited  being  Buddhist.  Our  bullocks 
trotted  us  well  down  to  the  creek  in  the  morning, 
starting  before  four,  and  after  somewhat  of  an  un- 
pleasant water  excursion,  we  joined  (as  bound  to  do) 
the  Phuoc  Kien  again,  which  lay  at  anchor  on  its 
return  from  Battambong,  and  sailed  for  Pnom  Penh. 
This  was  our  only  chance  of  return,  and  we  had 
taken  our  tickets  accordingly.  The  interval  gave  us 
two  full  days  for  all  we  came  to  see  ;  nor  must  I  omit 
to  add  that  our  two  French  guns  were  not  wholly 
wanton,  but  more  than  once  enriched  our  larder  with 
some  snipe.  At  Pnom  Penh  we  were  delayed  a  day, 
as  in  coming  up,  which  I  spent  driving  and  dining 
with    Mr.    Meyer.     On  the    5th    we    changed    our 


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HONGKONG  AGAIN,  375 

steamer  for  the  Battambong^  Captain  Noury,  and 
sailed  at  8  a.m.  for  Saigon,  arriving  at  about  ten  the 
next  morning.  Thus  our  excursion  occupied  from 
the  night  of  the  2Sth  of  November  to  the  morning 
of  the  6th  of  December.  At  Saigon  I  had  to  wait 
for  the  French  steamer  from  Europe,  the  Sydney^ 
till  the  15th,  spending  the  time  in  drives  and 
dinners  with  Mr.  Detmering.  On  th:\t  day  we  left 
at  2  a.m.,  I  being  on  board  the  night  before,  and  early 
on  the  18th  I  was  again  at  Hongkong.  My  twelve- 
months'  patience  had  been  well  rewarded. 

On  my  arrival  there  I  found  the  whole  town  in 
a  state  of  excitement  upon  the  subject  of  an  auda- 
cious piracy  on  the  Douglas  Steamship  Company's 
boatj  the  Namoa,  on  the  high  season  the  loth,  within 
a  few  hours'  steaming  of  Hongkong,  attended  with 
murder  of  the  captain  and  of  a  passenger  who 
happened  to  be  on  deck  when  the  entirely  unexpected 
attack  broke  out ;  and  on  this  same  i8th  of  December 
there  was  published  by  the  Hongkong  Daily  Press 
a  full  detailed  account  of  all  the  circumstances,  with 
the  following  r^j«;;/r' for  the  French  mail: — "Great 
excitement  has  been  caused  during  the  past  week  by 
a  case  of  piracy  on  one  of  the  coast  steamers.  The 
Douglas  sttdLm^r  Namoa  left  on  Wednesday,  the  loth 
instant,  for  the  coast  ports.  After  she  had  gone 
about  sixty  miles,  a  gang  of  pirates  who  had  shipped 
as  passengers,  and  whose  numbers  are  variously 
stated  at  from  forty  to  sixty,  rose  during  the  tiffin 
hour  and  took  possession  of  the  ship.  They  were 
all  armed  with  revolvers  and  cutlasses,  and  fired  down 
into  the    saloon.     Captain    Pocock  was  induced  to 


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376  WAXDERfNGS  AND    IVONDERIXGS. 

come  on  deck  under  promise  of  safety,  but  was  im- 
mediately shot  down,  and  died  soon  afterwards.  Mr. 
Petersen,  a  passenger,  who  had  remained  on  deck 
instead  of  going  down  to  tiffin  with  the  other 
passengers,  was  shot  at  the  commencement  of  the 
outbreak,  receiving  four  bullets  in  the  head.  A  Malay 
quartermaster  was  shot  and  thrown  overboard,  and 
another  was  so  severely  wounded  that  he  afterwards 
died  in  hospital.  Two  European  officers,  another 
Malay  quartermaster,  and  a  cook  and  a  seaman  were 
also  wounded.  The  pirates  then  proceeded  to  rifle 
the  baggage  of  the  European  and  native  passengers, 
and  obtained  booty  to  an  amount  variously  stated  at 
from  §20,000  to  $40,000,  and  subsequently  left  in 
junks  which  were  in  waiting  for  them.  The  officers 
and  European  passengers,  who  had  in  the  meantime 
been  confined  in  the  captain's  cabin,  then  came  out, 
and  the  ship  was  brought  back  to  Hongkong,  where 
she  arrived  the  next  morning." 

This  alarming  incident  concerns  everybody,  the 
more  so  that  the  same  journal  refers  to  several  other 
cases  of  a  like  nature,  effected  or  frustrated,  since  so 
late  a  date  as  1874 ;  and  at  the  end  of  its  editorial 
article  writes  the  following  remarkable  and  rather 
startling  paragraph  : — "  But  whatever  is  done,  it  will 
still  be  advisable,  if  not  absolutely  necessary,  for  the 
masters  of  steamships  to  adopt  every  precaution  which 
prudence  can  suggest  to  prevent  similar  outrages,  for 
it  must  be  remembered  that  this  colony  is  an  Alsatia 
for  the  criminals  of  Kwangtung,  and  is  periodically 
flooded  with  them  when  the  hunt  for  them  grows  hot 
on  the  mainland.     According  to  a  Chinese  estimate 


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HONGKONCf   AGAIN,  377 

— we  give  it  for  what  it  is  worth — there  are  at  the 
present  moment  not  less  than  two  thousand  pirates, 
or  would-be  pirates,  in  the  colony,  and  they  only  wait 
the  opportunity  to  declare  their  predatory  and  too 
often  brutal  instincts.  The  Namoa  piracy  furnishes 
an  instructive  example  of  the  ability,  forethought, 
daring,  and  resource  of  the  desperadoes  with  whom 
we  have  to  reckon,  and  whose  rendition,  when  applied 
for  by  the  Chinese  Government,  is  made  so  difficult." 
Though  not  personally  concerned  in  this  most  daring 
and  monstrous  proceeding,  yet  it  came  near  enough 
to  my  movements  to  make  me  feel  that  I  might  have 
suffered  the  like  horrors  had  I  happened,  on  the 
Namoa,  or  any  other  coasting  steamer,  to  have 
travelled  with  a  large  number  of  steerage  Chinese 
passengers  (as  was  the  case  here)  returning  to  their 
homes  with  all  their  savings  from  working  in  foreign 
countries.  This  was  the  evident  temptation  to  the 
brutal  crime,  the  fact  having  been  disclosed  by  some 
accomplice,  or  perhaps beingaccidentally  promulgated. 
I  had  always  seen  the  stand  of  arms  at  the  top  of  the 
companion — the  pro  fomid  row  of  long  guns  and 
cutlasses — stacked  all  in  order,  and  had  silently 
smiled  at  their  inutility,  none  of  the  guns  probably 
being  ever  loaded.  But  what  another  instance  of 
mocking  incidents  it  is  that  a  passenger  should  have 
made  a  remark  upon  them,  and  that  Captain  Pocock 
should  have  replied,  "They  are  a  relic  of  the  past ; 
years  ago  we  used  to  want  them,  but  we  don't  ever 
want  them  now  ;  "  he  who  an  hour  afterwards  lay  in 
dying  agonies,  and  knowing  that  his  steamer  was  in 
the  plundering  and  murdering  hands  of  those  against 


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378  WANDERfNGS  AND    WONDERfNGS, 

whom  every  weapon  and  every  nerve  were  requisite. 
At  a  later  date,  while  I  was  in  New  Zealand,  papers 
arrived  with  the  satisfactory  account  that  the  ring- 
leader and  several  others  had  been  caught,  and  had 
been  tried,  condemned,  and  decapitated  within  the 
twelve  hours.  That  they  would  die  with  either 
bravado  or  indifference  appeared  to  be  expected  by 
those  who  are  best  acquainted  with  the  Chinese 
character,  and  it  was  thus,  in  verity,  they  met  their 
death. 


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XXXIV. 

Thus  ended  my  whole  Asiatic  tour,  which  has 
suggested,  or  confirmed,  or  removed  many  floating 
reflections,  for  some  present  or  future  benefit,  or  for 
none  at  all.  And  it  ended  harmoniously,  for  I  alto- 
gether escaped  the  unhappy  scenes  which  have  very 
lately  taken  place  in  relation  to  interference  and 
invasion  in  matters  of  religion  and  faith,  and  which 
are  very  certain  to  break  forth  periodically  unto  the 
end.  I  suppose  every  one  ought  to  admire  per- 
severance in  the  face  of  difficulties,  but  surely  diffi- 
culties should  sometimes  warn  that  the  course 
pursued  is  wrong.  There  are  millions  who  feel  that 
Europe  has  no  more  right  to  intrude  her  religion 
upon  Asia  than  Asia  to  intrude  hers  upon  Europe  ; 
and  this  is  a  point  that  is  entirely  sponged  out  by 
those  who  presume  to  say,  "  We  are  the  true,  divinely 
appointed ;  you  are  the  false ;  and  we  are  ordered 
to  redeem  you."  The  assumption  is  tremendous 
Europe  has  given,  and  is  giving,  all  worldly  im- 
provements to  Asia  ;  Asia  gave  Europe  her  religion, 
which  could  never  have  been  founded  in  Europe 
herself,  but  which  Europe  has  nevertheless  worked 
out  and  made  her  own,  and  which  Asia  will  not  have 
from  Europe,  refusing  to  make  what  to  her  would 
be  the  mere  exchange  of  new  mysteries  for  old. 
And  this  refusal  is  all  the  stronger,  in  that  there 


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380  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

are  many  important  differences  among  the  many 
teachers,  who  at  the  same  time  do  not  merely  ask 
the  giving  up  of  the  old  but  the  acceptance  and  adop- 
tion of  their  own  new  instead.  This,  moreover,  they 
preach  in  the  case  of  a  belief  which,  by  a  curious 
assertion,  was  originally  **  hidden  from  the  wise  and 
given  unto  babes,"  but  has  since  shown  a  prolonged 
vein  throughout  history  of  arrogance  and  erudition. 
Again,  the  intruder  is  liable  to  be  told  that  he 
comes  without  a  book :  for  that  his  corner  stone, 
the  Bible,  belongs  to  the  Jews,  who  utterly  deny  those 
readings  and  interpretations  by  which  he  seeks  to 
attach  the  New  Testament  to  it,  whose  only  real 
foundation  is  thus  confessed  to  be  the  Old  Testa- 
ment (so  called)  as  interpreted  against  those  whose 
real  book  it  is,  and  who  must  be  supposed  to  know 
its  purport.  All  these  considerations  are  bound  to 
be  keenly  regarded  by  propagandists,  who  intrude 
upon  more  ancient  faiths,  but  they  need  not  for  one 
moment  interfere  with  those  who  have  accepted  their 
belief  from  the  beginning,  and  walk  through  life 
doing  quiet  good  in  virtue  of  it,  undisturbed  by 
the  wranglings  of  controversy  between  those  who, 
while  striving  to  unsettle  and  proselytize  others,  are 
mutually  striving  among  themselves  to  show  that 
the  one  or  the  other  of  them  believes  and  teaches 
either  too  little  or  too  much. 

The  Buddhist  tells  the  Christian  that  his  new 
faith  is  a  mere  copy  of  his  own  old,  and  Dr.  Marcus 
Dodds  by  inverting  history  writes  (p.  138) :  "The 
voluntary  incarnation  of  Buddha  is  a  myth  of  later 
formation,  and  one  of  many  in  which  there  exists  a 


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LEAVING   ASIA.  38 1 

very  striking,  and  it  must  be  owned  perplexing, 
similarity  to  the  most  striking  points  in  our  Lord's 
career/'  The  Buddhist  naturally  reverses  this  com- 
parison by  dates  ;  while  the  follower  of  Confucius 
points  to  the  great  Christian  Maxim  as  being  only  a 
later  affirmative  copy  of  the  old  negative  which  was 
centuries  before  propounded  by  his  own  philosopher, 
and  which  I  have  found  frankly  printed  outside 
"  Social  Life  of  the  Chinese,"  by  missionary  Justus 
Doolittle,  "  Do  not  unto  others  what  you  would  not 
have  them  do  unto  you."  This  maxim,  moreover, 
appears  in  the  Talmud,  and  was  taught  by  Rabbi 
Hillel. 

Any  amount  of  consideration  for  other  peoples' 
and  nations'  articles  of  faith  is  quite  consistent  with, 
and  indeed  belongs  to,  the  very  firmest  belief  in  a 
person's  own,  as  imbibed  at  home  and  cherished 
through  after  life.  This,  mentally  speaking,  cannot 
be  interfered  with  ;  nor  ought  to  be  so  otherwise,  so 
long  as  the  golden  rule  is  kept  in  view  : — Sic  utere 
ut  non  alieno  Icedas.  Everyone  has  a  right  to  propa- 
gate his  own  opinions;  but  they  should  be  presented 
naturally — as  his  own  ;  and  not  as  being  d  priori 
imperative  by  special  origin,  and  thus  compulsory  on 
all.  Such  a  position  is  wholly  opposed  to  common 
sense,  and  by  common  sense,  for. the  due  exercise  of 
which  we  are  profoundly  responsible,  cannot  be  ac- 
cepted. It  arises  from  the  same  self-confidence  that 
imagined  our  own  tiny,  infinitesimal,  dust-atom 
globe  to  be  the  primary  of  the  Universe.  Whoever 
assumes  mysterious  authority  really  does  nothing 
more   than    minimize    his    own    authority  to  speak 


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382  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

at  all,  and  opens  the  ground  for  a  reciprocal 
intrusion. 

I  should  fancy  the  missionary's  self-imposed  task 
in  India  is  far  less  difficult  and  perilous  than  in 
China,  though  the  Brahmins  religiously  resent  any 
invasion  of  their  Vedas,  now  some  3000  years  old. 
In  India,  I  am  told,  to  the  Roman  Catholics  is 
attributed  (and  I  believe  without  contradiction)  the 
widest  success,  and  this  seems  very  natural  among 
Eastern  people  ;  for  that  communion  exhibits  all  the 
mystery,  music,  poetry,  and  display  that  belong  to 
the  full-blown  Christian  Church,  and  without  which 
mere  unadorned  and  unrepresented  dogmas  appear 
dumb,  frigid,  and  repellent.  Besides,  there  is  more 
familiarity  and  brotherhood  between  these  teachers 
and  their  taught,  and  a  less  comfortable  separate 
mode  of  living  among  the  former  than  among  those 
of  the  various  sects.  This  may  obviously  be  caused 
by  matrimony,  with  its  home,  existing  on  the  one 
side,  and  celibacy,  without  a  home,  existing  on  the 
other ;  the  latter  springing  from  an  exaggerated  im- 
portance being  given  to  a  mere  crabbed  suggestion 
that  has  served  to  strangle  tens  of  thousands  of 
choicest  aspirations. 

In  a  small  and  impressive  volume  well  worthy  of 
careful  reading,  written  by  Mr.  Alexander  Michie,  of 
Tientsin,  there  occurs  a  note  at  page  52  with  a 
small  extract  from  the  Reverend  Dean  Butcher: — 
"  It  is  no  sign  of  a  true  religion  to  affront  a  false." 
This  is  an  excellent  maxim,  and  I  have  never  heard 
that  it  is  to  any  extent  contravened  ;  but  it  has  this 
main    blot — that   it    speaks   of  a   "false"    religion. 


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LEAVING  ASIA.  383 

But  "  false  "  is  a  word  that  can  be  readily  thrown 
back  where  antagonism  is  brought  into  play  :  and  it 
Height  well  be  asked,  "  Who  is  entitled  to  use  it, 
where  all  preach  mysteries,  professedly  insolvable  ? '' 
There  is  a  "  true  word  spoken  in  jest  "  attributed  to 
the  late  Archbishop  of  Dublin,  Dr.  Trench.  He  is 
credited  with  the  witty  saying  that  the  proper  way 
of  spelling  these  two  following  words  should  be  auio- 
doxy  and  hetero-doxy :  mine  and  yours.  The  re- 
ligious contender  can  never  yield  : 

"  Quum  solos  credat  habendos 
Esse  Deos,  quos  ipse  colit." 

Every  io^a  claims  its  own  divine  origin  in  one 
form  or  another.  This  should  be  always  remem- 
bered :  and  the  later  born  beliefs  necessarily  contain 
many  modified  features  of  the  earlier,  and  are  open 
to  be  thus  crucially  tested,  when  paraded. 

Any  particular  cast  of  human  mind  or  brain  will 
follow  others,  or  work  out  for  itself  its  own  beliefs 
and  modes  and  objects  of  worship,  and  will  fashion 
its  own  God,  just  as  it  will  follow  or  work  out  its 
other  subjects  of  thought.  And  on  this  part  of  the 
question  I  have  long  since  copied  out  a  written 
phrase  of  the  late  Cardinal  Newman,  written,  I 
believe,  when  he  was  appealed  to  as  to  a  passage 
in  Shakespeare  on  Falstaff  s  death :  that  he  was 
"  bound  to  confess  that  there  was  no  ultimate  test 
of  truth  besides  the  testimony  borne  to  truth  by  the 
mind  itself." 


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XXXV. 

"  Coelum,  non  animum,  mutant,  qui  trans  mare  currunt." 
They  who  o'er  the  ocean  Ifly 
Change  not  mind,  but  only  sky. 

But  even  without  going  any  farther,  I  did  not  feel 
like  this  at  all.  Nor,  indeed,  was  the  line  written  by 
Horace  as  a  general  maxim,  though  he  dreaded  and 
abhorred  ocean,  even  without  having  been  sea-sick ; 
but  it  was  addressed  to  a  friend  who  had  gone  to  Asia 
to  relieve  his  mind  of  a  special  cause  of  disquietude. 
The  very  essence  and  object  of  travelling  is  that  it 
does  change  the  mind,  and  is  indeed  the  best  mode 
of  changing  a  mind  that  has  been  warped  by  too 
much  sitting  at  home,  and  shutting  itself  out  from 
the  world  to  which  it  belongs,  but  which  it  has  thus 
taught  itself  to  treat  censoriously,  and  to  avoid  like 
the  outside  of  a  self-conceived  Garden  of  Eden  of  its 
own.  No  one  with  even  the  weakest  of  brains  can 
come  back  with  the  same  tone  of  thought  as  that 
which  he  went  out  with,  and  this  result  is  just  what 
those  who  have  bricked  themselves  up  in  their  own 
little  existence  at  home  call  demoralization.  They 
who  experience  the  change  think  themselves  the 
better  for  it ;  they  who  denounce  travelling  think 
they  are  all  the  worse.  Nobody  could  mean^  of 
course,  that  everybody  is  bound  to  go  to  Asia^  but 


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TO  AUSTRALIA.  385 

people  can  move  about  and  get  a  great  deal  of 
experience  of  the  world  they  belong  to  without 
doing  that.  Everyone,  however,  is  sure  to  do  as 
it  best  pleases  him,  but  no  one  can  pose  as  a  sound 
preacher  who  would  say,  "  Keep  out  of  the  world  ; 
thank  God,  I  am  content  with  my  own  garden/' 
It  is  a  real  demoralization  to  sit  at  home  till 
you  think  everybody  outside  your  own  gates  is 
going  wrong,  and  that  all  the  stars  were  made  for 
you.  Nor,  on  the  other  hand,  does  much  good 
arise  from  mere  scampering  for  the  mere  sake  of 
it.  Of  such  It  has  been  written  in  an  odd  (perhaps 
very  exquisite)  phrase  that, — 

They  never  once  possess  their  soul  • 
Before  they  die. 

Yet,  look  again  at  the  entangled  and  wrangling 
sort  of  literature  that  some  people  fruitlessly,  or  even 
mischievously,  work  out  by  travelling  in  their  own 
mere  brains  at  home  ;  puzzling  themselves  and  every- 
body else  with  spider*s  webs,  and  fancying  all  the 
while  that  it  is  thus  they  can  assure  themselves  that 
they  "  possess  their  soul !  " 

Horace  expresses  himself  much  more  tersely  than 
above  in  another  place, — 

.  .  .  Patriae  quis  exul 
Se  quoque  fugit  ? 

Who  that  bids  his  land  good-bye 
Also  from  himself  can  fly. 

No,  we  never  can  get  away  from  ourselves,  though 

C  c 


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386  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

it  is  a  common  saying  that  we  may  get  '*  beyond 
ourselves."     The 

Post  equiteni  sedet  atra  cura 

points  to  a  barbed  arrow  ;  yet  even  here  diversion  in 
travel  may  serve  to  allay,  though,  again,  interruption 
and  fatigue  may  serve  to  exacerbate. 

Up  to  the  exact  moment  of  my  own  life,  however, 
of  which  I  am  now  speaking.  I  was  not  b^ing  driven 
about  as  an  exul  to  avoid  curUy  and  though  I  had 
steadfastly  settled  in  my  mind  at  starting  that  I 
would  not  mingle  the  ripe  old  associations  of  Asia 
with  the  brand-new  energies  and  the  no-ancient  history 
of  our  Colonies,  yet  *'when  it  came  to  the  point" 
(as  the  phrase  is)  I  felt  quite  ashamed  of  being  so 
near  those  astonishing  young  giants  of  English  life, 
Australia  and  New  Zealand,  without  taking  a  look  at 
them  ;  so  that  I  resolved  to  make  bold  and  drop  down 
to  them  instead  of  merely  going  home.  Nor  was  it 
now  quite,  indeed,  the  chosen  season  for  taking 
that  homely  step  ;  although,  by  the  way,  our  dear 
ill-behaved  England  is  not  unfrequently  as  bad  in 
June  as  she  is  in  December. 

Therefore,  once  more,  though  now,  alas !  for  the 
last  time  and  ineflFectually,  I  appealed  to  my  hitherto 
constant  friends,  Butterfield  and  Swire,  to  see  me 
safely  to  Sydney.  "  Oh,  yes,"  said  Mr.  Mackintosh, 
with  his  ever-pleasant  face  of  business,  but  he  added, 
**  I'm  not  quite  sure  youM  like  it."  Why,  the  vessel 
was  to  be  full  of  tea,  saloon  included,  with  sleeping 
room  only  for  one  besides  myself,  and  he  (if  I  re- 
member rightly)  was  going  in  charge  of  all  the  tea  ! 


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TO  AUSTRALIA .  387 

The  offer  was  kind  and  well  intended,  and  though 
it  cut  me  sadly  to  the  heart  to  feel  forced  to  decline 
it,  I  felt  confident  that  Mr.  Mackintosh  quite  expected 
me  to  do  so,  which  helped  to  relieve  my  anguish. 

Accordingly,  in  mournful  mood,  I  sought  the 
office  of  Messrs.  Russell  &  Cie.,  whose  genial 
breezes  blew  away  all  my  clouds  by  their  according 
me  a  cabin  in  their  Eastern  and  Australian  S.S. 
Menmuir,  Captain  Craig,  which  was  to  sail  on  the 
23rd  for  Sydney ;  and  tea  would  here  be  confined  to 
breakfast  and  afternoon,  except  on  sea-sick  occasions, 
for  assistance ;  an  exception,  happily,  not  likely  to 
arise  with  me,  or  I  should  never  have  been  at  Hong- 
kong. But  what  do  you  think  of  a  merry  lady  I 
really  met  in  these  travels,  who,  while  suffering 
that  agony,  alternated  the  exacerbations  with  real 
laughter  at  herself  in  the  short  remissions!  As  I 
have  not  the  wit  to  invent  such  a  picture,  I  need  not 
most  positively  assure  you,  you  may  say 

The  story  is  true,  for  I  saw  it  in  print. 

On  the  afternoon  therefore  of  the  23rd  I  came  on 
board  the  Memnuir^  but  not  without  a  terrible 
scrimmage  with  my  Indian  servant,  which  it  is  as 
well  to  mention  here  for  the  sake  of  others.  These 
servants,  however  honest  (and  I  have  no  sort  of 
complaint  against  mine  in  this  regard),  have  a  re- 
markable instinct  of  secrecy.  Note  its  exhibition  in 
him  :  he  was  afraid  to  come  so  far  with  me,  and  had 
made  up  his  mind  to  stop  and  go  home,  but  he  kept 
this  secret.  I  need  not  recount  the  small  awful  crisis 
that  all  this  caused  at  the  last  moment.     Suffice  it 

C  c  2 


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388  WANDFR/NGS  AND    IVONDER/XGS. 

to  say  that,  by  Captain  Craig's  kindness,  I  had  just 
time  to  shake  him  off  and  leave  him  behind  to  get 
home  with  his  money,  although  I  had  paid  his  passage; 
nor  will  I  on  any  account  omit  to  add  that  Messrs. 
Russell  returned  me  the  whole  of  this  in  Sydney. 
In  truth,  it  turned  out  to  be  a  happy  incident,  and  I 
recount  it  here  for  the  purpose  of  showing  how 
necessary  it  is  to  make  these  people  speak  out.  They 
manage  English  but  badly,  and  to  escape  confusion 
get  rid  of  the  difficulty  by  saying  "  yes,"  and  after- 
wards you  pay  the  penalty.  "*  Yes/  *y^V  you  are 
always  saying  'yes.'  If  I  asked  you  if  you  had  the 
devil  inside  of  you,  I  believe  you  would  say  *  yes.' 
Now  have  you?"    '*Yes." 

The  passage  from  Hongkong  to  Sydney  occupied 
twenty-nine  days,  from  the  23rd  of  December,  1890, 
till  the  i8th  of  January,  1891,  on  which  morning  we 
passed  through  the  Heads  into  the  harbour.     Thus  I 
spent  my  Christmas  and  New  Year's  Day  at  sea.         , 
The  voyage  was  without  nautical  incident,  but  we         , 
encountered  the  torrential  rains  of  the  season  while         1 
steaming  down  the  coast  of  Australia.     The  steamer         \ 
was  rather  small,  so  that  this  circumstance  proved         I 
more  than  usually  inconvenient ;  but  Captain  Craig,         I 
the  chief  engineer,  the  chief  officer,  and  our  two  or 
three  passengers  were  all  very  pleasant,  so  that  it  was 
not  difficult  to  make  the  best  of  things,  which  I  found 
it  possible  to  do  with   the  exception  of  a  sciatica. 
We  passed  my  friend   Luzon  on  our  port,  running 
down  his   coast  on  a  very  fine   2Sth,   and  on  the 
27th   along  the   fine  coast  of  Mindanao,  regretting 
when  darkness  overtook  us.     Then  we  came  upon 


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TO  AUSTRALIA,  389 

the  Dutch  Celebes  through  the  Molucca  Pass,  and 
sailed  close  under  the  coast  of  the  island  of  Buru, 
which  presented  a  rather  remarkable  aspect.  It 
stood  out  as  if  entirely  of  a  high-peaked  mountain, 
to  which  the  height  of  9000  feet  is  given,  and  at 
the  very  top  of  it  there  is  said  to  be  a  large  lake. 
The  vast  foreground  consisted  of  innumerable  projec- 
tions, including  certain  green  serrated  ridges,  and  the 
whole  mountain  was  covered  with  dense  forest.  This 
was  on  the  31st  of  December,  and  with  Buru  I  bid 
adieu  to  the  year  1890. 

The  New  Year's  gift  of  189 1  was  Delli,  on  the  island 
of  Timor,  belonging  to  Portugal.  Here  we  remained 
till  5  p.m.  and  went  on  shore.  Here  is  to  be  recog- 
nized the  vacuity  of  monotony  in  its  true  features. 
The  few  officials  themselves  complain  of  it,  and  no 
wonder.  The  whole  island  is  far  from  belonging  to 
Portugal.  We  landed  on  the  north  ;  then  there  is 
some  fine  mountainous  country  behind,  which  is  in- 
habited by  what  are  called  savages,  and  on  the  south 
the  Dutch  are  the  possessors.  As  an  evidence  of 
the  slovenly  state  into  which  the  brain  falls  when  it 
has  not  enough  to  do,  the  custom-house  folks  forgot 
we  had  one  of  their  staff  on  board,  and  he  himself 
did  not  jump  off  his  chair  till  just  after  we  had  moved 
oflT,  when  he  was  despatched  to  land  in  one  of  the 
steamer's  own  boats.  When  one  can  get  away  from 
such  places  within  a  short  and  certain  period  it  does 
some  slight  good  to  have  seen  them. 

On  the  3rd  we  rode  into  Port  Darwin,  and  found 
England  on  the  other  side  of  the  world.  Here  we 
remained  under  the  jetty  for  the  rest  of  that  day  and 


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390  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

all  the  next,  admiring  (in  a  certain  sense)  the  black, 
curiously-robed,  and  curiously-haired  women,  and 
the  very  ugly,  but  muscular,  black  men.  Then  we 
touched  Thursday  Island,  very  picturesque  in  appear- 
ance ;  came  through  Albany  Pass,  and  were  soused 
with  the  torrential  rains.  A  new  experience  occurred 
to  me  on  the  loth  in  the  catching  of  a  shark.  If  you 
suppose  they  wait  till  he  is  dead  before  they  cut  him 
up,  secundum  artem^  you  are  mistaken.  On  the  1 3th 
we  passed  under  the  sun  on  his  northern  course,  and 
after  standing  off  Cook's  Town  and  Brisbane,  where 
my  only  impressions  are  of  rain,  we  at  last,  as  I 
have  said,  arrived  off  Sydney  Heads  a  little  before 
five  o'clock  on  Sunday  morning,  the  1 8th  of  January. 
With  all  my  fancy  for  morning  views,  perhaps  this 
was  a  little  too  early.  The  Heads  somewhat  dis- 
appointed me.  The  North  Head  is  bold  and  very 
curiously  coloured,  but  the  top  is  a  dead  flat  The 
South  Head  is  not  remarkable,  and  the  entrance, 
being  very  wide,  makes  all  the  less  show  of  itself. 
We  turned  to  the  left  at  once  to  the  Health  Station, 
and  then  to  the  right,  crossing  the  entrance  again  to 
the  Quarantine  Station.  We  then  steamed  up  the 
length  of  the  harbour  as  far  as  Sydney,  following  it 
to  the  right  to  land  at  the  quay.  Long  before  we 
reached  this  spot  the  sun  was  shining  brightly,  and 
showed  the  various  suburbs  and  the  rising  green  and 
wooded  hills  surrounding  the  harbour.  These  are 
spangled  all  over  with  villas  among  their  trees.  The 
whole  presented  a  sparkling  picture,  in  the  midst  of 
which  the  Domain  and  the  Botanical  Gardens,  where 
the  Governor  resides,  formed  a  cardinal  feature,  with 
their  green,  well-timbered  mounds  of  turf. 


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SYDNEY.  39r 

Sydney  occupies  a  very  undulating  and,  in  parts, 
lofty  position.  I  had  to  mount  considerably  before  I 
gained  my  hotel,  the  Grosvenor,  and  in  this  respect 
there  is  a  great  advantage  when  you  get  there,  for 
the  general  air  of  Sydney  is  decidedly  heavy.  Mr. 
Duncan,  the  manager,  and  all  under  him  were  very 
attentive,  the  only  defect  being  one  which  appertains, 
I  am  told,  to  all  Australian  hotels,  that  the  rooms 
are  small. 

And  here  I  received  the  reward  of  an  act  of  civility, 
for,  knowing  that  Mr.  Martin  of  Foochow,  although 
stationed  in  Melbourne,  was  connected  with  the  firm 
of  Messrs.  Lorimer,  Rome  &  Cie,  I  called  at  once  at 
their  office,  and  found  that  Mr.  Martin,  though  not  in- 
doors at  the  moment,  was  nevertheless,  by  the  merest 
chance,  in  Sydney.  In  this  simple  fact  there  was  not 
much,  but  when  he  called  on  me  it  turned  out  to  be 
everything ;  for  on  his  inquiring  what  I  was  going  to 
do,  and  finding  nobody  had  given  a  hint  to  me  about 
anything,  he  at  once  gave  me  the  important  news  that 
I  was  just  in  time  to  catch  the  last  trip  to  the  Sounds  in 
New  Zealand.  Dropping  all  Sydney  thoughts,  there- 
fore, I  made  for  this,  and  on  Monday,  the  26th,  I  was 
on  board  the  P.  &  O.  s.s.  Carthage^  for  Melbourne. 
I  was  in  Melbourne  from  the  28th  of  January  until 
the  3rd  of  February,  and  visited  Mr.  Martin  at 
Kew,  commanding  a  fine  open  country,  and  in 
Melbourne  itself  I  had  the  opportunity  of  witnessing 
a  large  city  of  active,  moving  people,  and  of  large 
buildings,  built  in  squares,  with  busy  shops,  and  cable 
cars  running  to  and  fro  and  up  and  down  the  un- 
dulating streets,  quite  in  the  fashion  of  San  Francisco. 
The  whole  speaks  of  enterprising  and  increasing  life. 


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392  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

I  also  realized  something  of  the  hard  blue  Austra- 
lian sky.  But,  like  that  of  India,  it  is  of  too  hard  a 
blue.  It  is  easy  to  say  "  Give  me  a  fine  day  in  Eng- 
land," but  It  is  useless  to  say  "  Give  me  fine  days." 
They  are  of  the  very  best  when  they  come,  but  they 
only  peep  in  and  laugh  and  run  away.  Nor  is  this 
all ;  for  they  are  generally  followed  by  some  that 
frown  darkly  and  coldly ;  reminding  one  of  some  of 
our  companies,  who  pay  us  eight  or  ten  per  cent,  one 
year,  and  nothing  the  next,  with  a  call  to  make  up 
losses  into  the  bargain. 

On  Tuesday,  the  3rd  of  February,  I  started  in  the 
Wairarapa  about  3  p.m.  for  the  Bluff  in  New 
Zealand,  where  I  was  to  meet  the  Tarawera  coming 
from  Dunedin  on  this  the  last  of  the  Sounds  Excur- 
sions for  the  season.  We  touched  at  Hobart  on  our 
way,  and  came  into  the  estuary  of  the  Derwent  at 
about  ten  on  the  morning  of  the  Sth.  We  steamed 
up  a  wide  stream  with  green  hilly  sides.  After 
about  an  hour's  winding  through  picturesque  distant 
slopes,  and  turning  to  the  right  by  the  low  rock  light- 
house, and  then  to  the  left,  we  came  in  view  of  the 
scattered  city  on  the  hillsides.  The  moment  was 
propitious,  for  in  front  lay  seven  vessels  of  the  Royal 
Navy,  the  Admiral's  (Sir  G.  Scott)  flagship  heading 
them.  Mount  Wellington,  some  4000  feet  high, 
formed  a  very  prominent  feature.  The  whole  picture 
was  very  pleasing,  partaking  entirely  of  fine  lake 
scenery. 

From  the  Sth  to  the  9th  we  were  on  our  passage 
from  Hobart  to  the  Bluff.  The  weather  was  fine,  but 
somewhat  breezy,  and  for  one  or  two  days  we  were 


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TO  NEW  ZEALAND.  393 

constantly  attended  by  albatross  and  mohawks. 
Although  I  had  already  steamed  along  the  coast  of 
South  Africa,  I  had  not  yet  become  acquainted  with 
this  strange  bird  of  the  "  Ancient  Mariner."  The 
savage  monsters  were  even  more  attractive  to  behold, 
and  much  more  gigantically  so,  than  the  kites  in 
Jeypur.  They  curved,  and  swooped,  and  soared,  and 
stooped,  and  brushed  against  the  wind  without  one 
single  apparent  motion  of  their  enormous  wings, 
irresistibly  reminding  one,  in  this  respect  at  all  events, 
of  Virgil's  dove ;  but  neither  bird  nor  weather  will 
bear  the  simile  further.  Nothing  verily  was  there  of 
the  "  acre  lapsa  quietOy'  for  the  full  gale  was  blowing, 
and  the  wilder  was  the  wind,  the  steadier  were  the 
outstretched  seventeen-foot  sails. 


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XXXVI. 

On  Monday,  the  9th,  we  arrived  at  the  Bluff,  and 
here  I  first  put  foot  on  a  southern  point  of  New 
Zealand,  which  we  call  the  Antipodes  of  England. 
The  Tarawera  was  not  yet  in,  and  was  expected  on 
the  following  morning.  I  therefore  did  not,  as  some 
did  who  had  come  on  the  same  mission  as  myself, 
go  up  to  Invercargill  only  to  return,  but  contented 
myself  with  remaining  at  the  local  "Club  House 
Hotel,"  where  I  was  very  comfortably  lodged. 

It  was  a  day  or  two  before  arriving  at  the  Bluff 
that  I  made  up  my  mind,  in  convalescence  from 
sciatica — take  care  of  small  steamers  in  the  Australian 
wet  season — that  I  must  get  some  sort  of  young  com- 
panion or  helpmate  to  continue  my  journey  with ;  and 
feeling  now  more  among  one's  own  people,  a  chance 
conversation  with  a  young  New  Zealander  on  board 
decided  me  to  enlist  him  to  continue  the  rest  of  my 
journey  with  me.  So  that  thenceforward  I  ceased 
to  disregard  your  injunctions  against  travelling  en- 
tirely without  a  companion,  and  Mr.  John  Cameron 
Morrison,  of  Wellington,  was  appointed  to  take  care 
of  me,  it  being  a  feature  in  the  case  also  that  he  was 
young  enough  for  me  to  take  some  sort  of  care  of 
him. 

On  the  loth,  being  Shrove  Tuesday,  the  Tarawera^ 


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NEW  ZEALAND.  395 

Captain  Sinclair,  came  in  very  early,  and  we  started 
for  the  West  Coast  Sounds  at  half-past  eight.  Of 
these  excursions  there  are  three,  I  believe,  every 
season,  arranged  by  the  Union  S.S.  Co.  of  New 
Zealand,  and  the  return  tickets  are  taken  at  Dunedin, 
arrangements  for  the  Bluff  being  included.  The 
outing  (to  use  that  word)  is  a  sort  of  a  steamboat 
picnic,  the  Sounds  being  the  leading  object.  The 
whole  distance  to  and  fro  is  stated  to  be  828  miles, 
and  the  whole  time  occupied  up  to  the  return  to 
Dunedin  (Port  Chalmers)  is  ten  days.  This  length 
of  time  is  far  more  than  is  necessary  for  visiting  the 
Sounds,  but  a  whole  day  is  spent  in  some  of  them 
for  fishing  and  boating  parties,  or  for  simply  walking 
on  shore,  so  as  to  make  a  change  from  the  steamer. 
Then  at  night  there  may  be  dances,  or  concerts,  or 
recitals,  or  private  theatricals ;  in  short,  all  kinds  of 
amusements.  The  vessel  is  fitted  out  expressly  for 
the  occasion,  with  all  sorts  of  games  on  board,  and  so 
popular  are  these  that  even  amidst  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  scenery  the  players  were  the  blindest 
and  busiest.  But  people  go  on  these  excursions  for 
the  purpose  of  enjoying  themselves,  and  are  entitled 
to  accomplish  this  not  too  often  successful  object  in 
the  manner  most  consonant  with  their  dispositions. 

The  general  character  of  all  these  Sounds,  with  the 
exception  of  Milford  Sound,  is  a  mixture  of  soft 
sloping  forest  down  to  the  water's  edge,  with  generally 
wooded  islands  in  the  middle,  and  rocks  protruding 
through  the  trees.    They  are  all  beautiful. 

Preservation  Sound  was  the  first  we  came  to, 
between  four  and  five  of  the  afternoon  of  the  first 


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396  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

day.  The  gradually  opening  scenes  as  we  sailed  up 
were  very  sweet,  until  quite  at  the  top  distant  serrated 
and  barren  peaks  opened  behind  the  green  fore- 
ground buttresses  in  a  striking  picture.  Here  also  are 
bossed  islands  which  add  greatly  to  the  effect  As 
in  picnic  fashion,  singing  and  dancing  filled  up  the 
evening,  and  the  whole  of  the  next  day  was,  or 
would  have  been  but  for  the  rain,  spent  in  fishing  or 
meandering,  or  hoping  for  fine  weather. 

On  the  1 2th  we  visited  what  to  my  mind  was  the 
most  exquisite  in  sweetness  and  variety  of  all  our 
scenery.  We  started  at  five  in  the  morning,  and  at 
about  eight  entered  what  is  called  "  Dusky  Sound." 
We  of  course  steamed  to  the  top  of  this,  amidst  a 
great  variety  of  effects,  produced  by  wooded  islands 
as  well  as  by  hanging  forests,  the  trees  throughout 
all  the  Sounds  being  small,  but  very  thick.  In  going 
up  the  "  Dusky,"  however,  we  passed  to  our  left  a 
very  beautiful,  long,  perspective  opening,  and  to  my 
great  satisfaction,  on  our  return,  I  found  our  course 
lay  through  it.  It  is  called  "  The  Acheron  Pass," 
and  leads  into  another  Sound  of  truly  exquisite  soft- 
ness and  beauty,  and  this  we  traversed,  to  my  infinite 
contentment  and  delight,  even  to  the  head,  and 
anchored  there  for  the  night.  '  This  lovely  retreat,  un- 
photographed,  bears  a  real  sailor's  name.  It  is  called 
Wet  Jacket  Sound  :  inharmonious  indeed  with  the 
fairy  scenery  it  disclosed  to  us,  but  indicating,  never- 
theless, what  too  often  happens  here,  that  the  weather 
can  be  fearfully  wet.     Not  so,  however,  was  it  with  us. 

Here  we  did  not  remain  a  day,  but  steamed  out  to 
sea  to  get  to  George's  Sound  ;  and  having  to  do  so, 


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NEW  ZEALAND,  397 

the  wind  took  care  to  rise,  which  incommoded  some 
for  a  while.  This  Sound  did  not  so  particularly  strike 
me,  coming  after  that  of  yesterday ;  but  it  is  very  pleas- 
ing notwithstanding ;  and  anchoring  about  three  in 
the  afternoon,  we  remained  all  night  and  all  next 
day,  when  there  was  a  gay  regatta,  ladies  and  all 
contending,  with  a  gay  regatta  ball  at  night  But  on 
this  day  it  must  be  confessed  that  the  wind  was  strong 
and  cold.  Indeed,  at  one  time  the  regatta  seemed  a 
doubtful  ceremony. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  15  th  we  sailed  for 
Milford  Sound,  and  here  the  scene  completely  changes. 
The  coast  increased  in  rocky  character  until  we 
reached  the  entrance  at  9.30.  The  character  here  'is 
gigantic,  the  heights  varying  from  five  to  seven  thou- 
sand feet.  The  latter  height  is  given  to  Mount 
Pembroke,  on  which  there  hangs  a  particularly  fine 
white  glacier.  Here  also  is  a  real  waterfall,  not  being 
one  of  those  mere  ribbons  about  which  passengers 
would  be  continually  calling  out.  These  falls  are 
called  after  the  late  Governor,  Sir  George  Bowen  ; 
their  great  effect  is  produced  by  the  second  neck 
from  above  (there  are  two)  falling  into  a  confined 
pool,  whence  the  waters  rebound  with  height,  force, 
and  width — from  perhaps  350  feet.  The  steamer 
anchored  in  front  of  them,  and  here  begins  what  might 
almost  be  called  the  disappointment  in  this  un- 
doubtedly magnificent  Sound.  It  stops  quite  short 
just  beyond  the  falls,  and  subsides  into  comparative 
flats,  whereas  from  the  character  of  its  scenery  you 
would  expect  a  prolonged  perspective  of  a  corre- 
sponding character.     It  is  almost  all  entrance.     But 


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398  WANDERINGS  AND    IVONDERINGS. 

on  your  left  as  you  look  back  to  the  actual  entrance 
you  should  observe  what  is  called  Sinbad's  Valley. 

We  stayed  at  anchor  here  all  the  Sunday  and 
Monday,  and  until  five  o'clock  on  the  Tuesday,  for 
an  excursion  was  to  be  made  to  what  are  called  the 
Sutherland  Falls.  This  is  a  hardish  task,  and  the 
weather  was  very  wet  for  the  start  on  the  Monday 
morning,  but  it  was  accomplished  by  some  of  the 
party,  who  gave  no  very  pleasant  account  of  their 
toil,  though  they  highly  appreciated  the  scene.  The 
photographs  did  not  greatly  impress  me.  A  yet 
harder  excursion,  without  a  return  to  the  steamer, 
was  undertaken  by  another  party  to  walk  to  the 
Lake  Te  Anou,  sail  over  it  in  a  boat,  and  find  their 
way  gradually  to  Queenstown  and  Lake  Wanaka. 
In  this  they  also  were  successful  and — fatigued. 

Meanwhile  we  had  made  up  our  own  party  for  a 
long  walk  to  Lake  Ida  through  the  forest.  It  was 
scarcely  worth  the  fatigue,  and  for  myself  I  narrowly 
escaped  a  broken  neck  or  limb  by  the  breaking  of  a 
wooden  bridge  over  a  deep  and  very  ugly  chasm. 

On  the  Tuesday  morning  the  whole  scene  looked 
splendid  under  a  peculiarly  fine  sunrise  after  the  rain, 
which  I  found  myself  watching  by  the  side  of  Mr. 
Peele,  a  New  Zealand  painter,  well  known  and  much 
appreciated.  He  had  come  with  the  rest  of  us  to 
admire  all  these  alluring  scenes,  and  gather  hints 
from  Nature.  And  also  came  among  the  number 
three  ecclesiastics  of  the  Roman  Church,  whom  it 
was  quite  refreshing  to  see  joining  in  sympathy  with 
all  the  amusements  that  took  place.  There  was  Arch- 
bishop Carr,  of  Melbourne,  who  indeed  took  the  chair 


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NEW  ZEALAND.  399 

and  gave  out  the  list  from  time  to  time  of  the  various 
performances  ;  Bishop  Moore,  of  Ballarat ;  Bishop 
Moran,  of  Dunedin,  and  one  more  whom  I  cannot 
find  upon  the  list.  What  a  difference  there  is  among 
all  the  priests  and  preachers  of  the  almost  various 
Gospels !  -The  educated  Roman  Catholic  priest  is 
always  genial,  and  is  not  known  among  enjoying 
groups  by  his  prohibitory  and  censorious  separation  : 
separation,  which  invariably  breeds  censoriousness : 
and  whereof  a  sad  example  exists  in  the  person  of 
the  pious  Cowper  ;  proving  that  piety  of  a  certain 
class  engenders  the  virtue  of  censoriousness. 

There  was  unhappily  a  high  wind  and  a  rolling  sea 
when  we  put  our  nose  out  for  a  direct  run  to  the  Bluff ; 
but  on  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  i8th,  all  we 
who  were  going  to  visit  New  Zealand  were  safely 
landed  there,  the  boat  going  on  to  Dunedin.  Before 
the  passengers  were  parted,  however,  there  was  a 
general  vote  of  thanks  proposed  for  Captain  Sinclair 
and  his  officers,  and  never  was  one  better  deserved  ; 
and  a  handsome  subscription  was  made  for  the  crew. 
Here  also  the  Archbishop  graced  the  ceremony  by 
presiding. 

Thus  ended  my  excursion  to  the  Western  Sounds 
of  New  Zealand,  and  I  shall  always  remember  their 
great  beauty,  our  most  successful  visit  to  them,  and 
the  happy  chance  that  enabled  me  to  catch  the  last 
excursion  just  in  time;  for  had  I  lost  the  opportunity 
of  adding  all  these  pictures  to  the  gallery  of  my 
memory,  the  loss  would  have  been  great  indeed. 

"  And  what  do  you  think  of  them  as  compared 
with  the  fiords  of  Norway  ? "  asked  an  acquaintance, 


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400  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

who  wanted  to  know  something  of  what  he  hadn't 
seen.  "How  do  you  compare  them?"  "Well,  I 
will  tell  you  how :  the  Sounds  are  Fiords,  and  the 
Fiords  are  Sounds,  and  Norway  is  Norway,  and  New 
Zealand  is  New  Zealand."  How  anyone  who  has 
seen  both  can  pretend  to  put. both  into  the  same 
crucible  and  really  compare  them,  I  know  not. 

So  soon  as  we  were  landed  Jack  and  I  made  for  the 
railway  station,  to  go  to  the  Albion  at   Invercargill 
that  afternoon,  and  we  left  the  troop  to  go  on  ahead 
next  day.     On  the  20th  we  slept  at  Lumsden.     From 
Lumsden  we  went   to  Kingston,  at   the   bottom    of 
Lake  Wakatipu  —  called    "  Wakatip  *' — and    thence 
we  steamed  up  to  Queenstown,  lodging  at  the  very 
comfortable  hotel  called  Eichardt's.     The    day  was 
cold  and  dull,  and  this  no  doubt  contributed  to  my 
feeling  what   I   had  been  warned  of,  that  so    far  as 
Queenstown,  at  all  events,  Wakatip  could   not  com- 
pete   with    the    west.      The    scenery,    however,    at 
Queenstown  is  not  to  be   despised   by   any  means. 
The  serrated  ridge,   called    the    "  Remarkables,"    is 
indeed  fine,  and  when  sprinkled  with  snow  must  be 
more  so.     Mount  Cecil  also  must  be  mentioned. 

On  the  22nd  there  was  a  drive  with  Mr.  Johnson 
and  Mrs.  Moir,  his  married  daughter,  and  on  the  24  th, 
the  day  being  fine,  I  decided  to  go  up  to  the  head  of 
the  lake.  The  sides  are  barren,  but  the  opening  of 
the  snow  range,  as  it  rides  into  view,  is  grand  ;  Mount 
Earnshaw  showing  well,  with  a  grand  glacier.  The 
head  of  the  lake  itself  is  flat  and  featureless,  and 
the  change  in  the  apparent  outline  of  Earnshaw, 
according  as  the  light  strikes  him,  is   remarkable. 


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JV£IV  ZEALAND.  4OI 

a  feature  chiefly  observable  between  the  up  and  down 
passages  of  the  lake.         i 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Newell  and  their  daughter,  an  Ameri- 
can family  resident  in  Melbourne,  whom  we  had  met 
on    the   Sounds    excursion,  being  here,  we  made  a 
day's  drive  to  what  js  called  "  The  Skippers,"  a  very 
rough    mountain  road,  and   somewhat  calculated  to 
startle  those  who  have  not  been  habitual  mountain 
travellers,  the  most  notable  point   being  "  Siberia " 
(as  it  is  called)  and  the  rock  castles.     On  the  28th 
we  all  started  for  Lake  Wanaka,  and  in  wet  weather 
we  went  as  far  as  a  place  called  Arrowtown.    Thence 
we  toiled  up  and  over  what  is  called  "  Crown  Range," 
whence  there  is  a  wide  view,  but  not  one  the  vaunted 
features  of  which  greatly  attracted  me.     The  drive 
down  was  ugly,  and  the  road  was  bad.     Towards  the 
close  I  just  caught  sight  of  Mount  Aspiring  and  Black 
Rock  to  the  left,  Mount  Ion  lying  to  the  right. 

On  the  2nd  of  March,  Captain  Hedditch  took  us  up 
the  lake,  which  I  thought  superior  to  that  of  Waka- 
tipu.  Note  the  Black  Rock,  so  called  because  the 
top  is  black  ;  Mounts  Alva,  Albert,  and  Alba ;  three 
A's.  The  snows  and  glaciers  were  frequent.  The 
island  Manuka  also  should  be  visited,  with  the  strange 
lake,  about  350  feet  above  Wanaka,  always  discharg- 
ing but  not  showing  any  means  of  supply.  If  you 
like  to  clamber  still  higher  there  is  a  fine  view  to 
reward  you.  However  much  these  two  lakes  may  be 
appreciated  by  many,  it  seems  quite  clear  that  the 
two  most  beautiful  in  the  island  are  those  of  Te  Anau 
and  Manipori.  To  neither  of  these,  however,  could  I 
easily  get,  nor  did  I  make  any  great  endeavour  to  do 

D  d 


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402  WANDEHINGS  AND    \VOND£If/AGS. 

SO,  for  on  the  Te  Anau  the  steamer  had  broken  down, 
and  on  the  Manipori  there  was  no  steamer  at  all. 
Moreover  the  road  from  Kingston,  at  the  foot  of 
Wakatipu,  the  proper  point  of  departure,  was  bad, 
though  fairly  enough  served  with  a  now  and  then 
coach.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  authorities  have 
done  something  effectual  in  making  this  beautiful  part 
of  their  country  easy  of  access,  and  worth  the  journey 
on  getting  there.  It  must  be  well  worth  their  while 
to  do  so  ;  the  scenery  is  obviously  choice. 

On  the  3rd  we  were  persuaded  to  go  to  Glendhu 
Bay  for  a  sight  of  Mount  Aspiring  ;  but  the  journey 
was  not  successful  in  this,  and  particularly  not  so  as 
regarded  a  high  climb  to  see  a  large  pond,  represented 
below  as  being  a  lovely  lake.  No  features  of  the  day 
are  worth  recording.  •  Hence  our  road  lay  to  Dunedin, 
and  the  first  night  was  spent  at  Cromwell.  Thence 
crossing  over  the  river  in  a  cradle,  we  continued  to 
Roxburgh,  passing  for  some  fifteen  miles  along  the 
banks  of  the  Molyneux,  or  Clutha  River,  and  through 
some  of  the  very  roughest  rocky  country  I  have  ever 
seen.  From  Roxburgh  we  drove  to  Lawrence  with  a 
coachman  of  pictureque  memories,  Mr.  Mcintosh  by 
name;  and  there  we  found  that  vulgar  but  most 
welcome  addition  to  the  landscape,  in  the  shape  of  a 
railway.  To  say  that  it  took  us  "  straight  away  "  to 
Dunedin  \yould  not  be  precisely  correct ;  for,  as  far 
as  Milton  Junction  it  wound  about  in  a  most  remark- 
able, but  no  doubt  necessary,  manner.  Finally,  we 
reached  Dunedin,  the  capital  of  the  Otdgo  Pro- 
vince, the  picturesque  city  of  Dunedin,  and  "de- 
scended" at    the   Grand    Hotel,    belonging  to  Mr. 


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NEW  ZEALAND.  403 

Watson,  who  also  had  been  one  of  the  visitors  to  the 
Sounds. 

I  remained  in  Dunedin  till  Monday,  the   i6th,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Newell  leaving  on  the  14th  to  meet  again  ! 

at  Sydney  \  and  in  the  interval  I  did  my  best  to 
see  the  most  of  what  I  might  almost  call  romantic  j 

Dunedin.  The  undulations  of  the  country  are 
striking,  and    the   cable    cars  offer  all  facilities    for  i 

moving  up  and  down.     I  had  the  advantage  of  Mr.  | 

Martin's  letter  to  Mr.  G.  L.  Denniston,  who  received  I 

me  at  his  house,  put  my  name  down  at  the  Club  ; 

(where  I  again  met  General  Sir  Allen  Johnson),  and 
gave  me   an   introduction   to    the    Hon.    Mr.    and  ! 

Mrs.  Reynolds,  his  father  and  mother-in-law,  at 
Montecillo.  What  a  fine  air  there  is  upon  those 
hills ;  and  in  walking  round  the  garden  I  could  but 
exclaim,  "  What  magnificent  gooseberry  bushes  ! "  I 
was  unfortunately  out  of  season  for  the  feast,  but  I  \ 

was  told  that  the  produce  of  that  common  but  most 
delicious  fruit  (I  had  rather  be  always  among  goose- 
berries than  always  among  mangostines)  is  even 
inconvenient  ;  friends  and  neighbours,  with  their 
children,  being  invited  to  thin  them  off.  I  hope  you 
don't  expect  statistics  of  the  city,  for  I  do  not  intend 
to  copy  out  tables  which  you  would  not  read,  and  in 
which  I  should  always  have  less  interest  than  in  the 
gooseberries. 

My  next  city  was  to  be  Christchurch,  the  capital 
of  the  Provincial  District  of  Canterbury  ;  but  on  my 
way  thither  I  had  made  up  my  mind  to  see  Mount 
Cook,  and  this  involved  a  rather  serious  and  fatiguing 
diversion  from  the  direct  road.  However,  I  under- 
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404  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

took  it,  encouraged  so  to  do  by  my  young  companion, 
and  not  less  by  my  being  able  to  take  a  passage 
everywhere,  even  to  London,  with  Messrs.  Cook  and 
Son*s  active  agent  at  the  hotel. 

Accordingly  I  took  all  necessary  tickets,  and  we  left 
by  the  eleven  o'clock  train  through  Timaru  for  Fairlie 
Creek,  the  latter  being  the  branch  railway  station  and 
starting  point  for  the  coach.  We  arrived  there,  to 
the  Gladstone  Hotel,  at  8  p.m.,  in  order  to  start  away 
the  next  morning  at  8  a.m.  But  I  must  not  pass  by 
this  uneventful  journey  without  recording  my  recol- 
lection of  the  remarkably  pleasing  scenery  that  I 
enjoyed  in  the  train  while  running  down  from 
Dunedin  towards  Port  Chalmers.  Hills,  vales,  woods, 
and  water  all  combined  to  charm  in  the  sunshine. 
Afterwards,  however,  when  we  had  turned  well  to 
the  north,  the  country  became  flat,  though  no  doubt 
fertile. 

On  the  17th,  therefore,  we  started  for  Pukaki, 
having  secured  and  paid  an  extra  fee  for  the  two  box 
seats  for  myself  and  companion,  this  being  an  essen- 
tial arrangement  for  anyone  who  values  a  real  chance 
of  seeing  the  country  and  getting  information  from 
the  coachman  as  worth  more  than  a  few  extra  shillings. 
Our  point  for  the  day  was  Pukdki,  the  whole  distance 
being  fifty-six  miles.  The  proprietor  drove  to  Tekapo 
Lake  and  hotel,  twenty-six  miles,  with  the  same 
horses,  resting  and  watering  on  the  road,  which  up 
to  that  point  was  not  bad  ;  -certainly  not  worse  than 
the  hard  food  at  the  hotel ;  and  Mount  Cook  con- 
tinued to  show  himself  as  we  came  along. 

Here  we  took  a  fresh  coach  as  well  as  fresh  horses, 


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NEIV  ZEALAND,  4O5 

and  for  the  remaining  thirty  miles  the  road  certainly 
became  rougher,  nor  was  there  any  farther  change 
of  horses.  Henceforth  the  ranges  of  the  mountains 
began  to  open  impressively,  and  Mount  Cook,  with  his 
12,349  feet,  stood  forth  very  grandly.  His  form  was 
remarkable,  exhibiting  a  gigantic  gable-ended  roofing 
with  a  vast  stack  of  antique  chimneys  at  one  end. 
Homely  as  this  simile  may  appear,  the  effect  was  far 
from  homely.  At  last  we  came  to  Lake  Pukaki,  where 
the  accommodation  at  the  hotel  is  as  good  as  the  small 
house  could  admit  of ;  and  if  Mount  Cook  is  ever  to 
attract  many  visitors,  more  attention  should  be  paid 
to  this  station.  Our  party,  moreover,  felt  this  in- 
convenience particularly  ;  for  a  certain  number  had 
already  arrived  by  the  direct  rough  road  from  Lake 
Wanaka,  and  with  now  two  roads  leading  to  it  the 
small  accommodation  is  destructive  of  the  Mount  Cook 
excursion.  The  view  is  decidedly  fine.  Mount  Cook 
appears  to  rise  from  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  all  his 
surrounding  companions  show  forth  around  him.  To 
a  remarkably  fine  craggy  monster  is  given  the  not 
harmonious  name  of  "  Rotten  Tommy,*'  the  allusion 
being  to  the  brittle  nature  of  the  rock.  Then  there 
is  the  Seely  Range,  Mount  Tasman,  and  others,  all 
combining  to  attract  attention  and  excite  admiration. 
But  in  truth  Pukaki  has  no  topographical  right  to 
He  upon  the  road  to  Mount  Cook  from  Fairlie  Creek, 
though  apparently  it  must  always  continue  to  do  so ; 
and  the  reason  is  the  utterly  impracticable  character 
of  the  Tasman  River,  with  its  quicksands  and  shifting 
channel.  Otherwise  this  river  might  be  crossed  in  a 
direct  line  westward  before  it  enters  the  Pukaki  lake  ; 


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406  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINCfS. 

that  is,  at  the  head  of  that  lake,  instead  of  at  the  foot 
to  which  the  road  to  Mount  Cook  must  thus  be  brought, 
at  the  expense  of  altogether  a  divergence  costing 
thirty  miles. 

On   the    1 8th  we   started  early,  and   encountered 
forty   miles  of  an  almost    always  rough  road.      No 
change   of  horses  took   place,  but  they  rested   and 
baited  while  we  lunched  in  the  open,  our  view  now 
including  the  huge  Tasman  glacier.     But  of  this  ver>- 
little  that  is  engaging  can  be  said,  for  it  is  utterly 
covered  with  debris^  while  nothing  can  look  much 
uglier  than  the  Tasman  river.   While  we  were  lunching 
a  curious  circumstance  happened.    A  brown  bird,  ver>' 
like  a  large  partridge,  and  called  by  some  fern-hen, 
came  about  us,  in  twos  or  threes.     These,  in  order  to 
pick  up  what  they  could,  came  boldly  and  slyly  close 
up  to  us,  and  one  of  them  indeed  had  its  beak  in  my 
very  pocket  when  the  alarm  was  given.     This  habit 
of  theirs  is  well  known  in  New  Zealand,  and  picnic 
parties  are  continually  missing  small  things  on  this 
account.     A  great  hunt  after  one  in  our  case  resulted 
in  nothing  ;  the  manner  in  which  the  thief  dodged  in 
and  out  of  the  close  bushes  defied  all  efforts  till  it  was 
time  to  move  on.     When  we  did  so  we  still  found  the 
valley  flat,  barren,  and  ugly,  and  the  Hermitage,  as 
the  name   is,  looked  naked  and  dreary  in  the  un- 
fruitful space  between  the  hills  and  mountains.     But 
glaciers  abound  upon  the  latter,  patched  in  various 
directions,   and    those    oh    Mount   Sefton,    as   you 
approach,  are  particularly  fine.     At  the  Hermitage 
we   were  welcomed   by  Mr.   Huddleston,  who,   full 
of  attention   and   interesting    information,   actively 


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NEW  ZEALAND.  407 

superintended  and  accompanied  the  chief  excursions 
from  the  station. 

I  have  said  that  the  glaciers  of  Mount  Sefton  are 
particularly  fine.  They  are  not  so  extensive  as  some 
others,  but  they  hang  very  precipitously,  and  thus 
naturally  exhibit  in  a  special  manner  all  those  deep 
fissures  and  ragged  rocky  surfaces  that  constitute  the . 
chief  beauties  of  those  marvellous  accumulations  of 
ice,  now  confined  to  mountain  recesses,  but  claimed 
as  having  occupied,  at  some  long  past  period,  vast 
regions  of  now  cultivated  earth.  For  anyone  who 
wishes  to  see  glaciers  with  some  of  their  most  effec- 
tive features,  Mount  Sefton  should  be  well  worth  a 
visit ;  and  another  point  is  that,  as  a  result  of  the 
almost  vertical  hanging  of  these  glaciers,  the  avalanche 
is  frequent.  It  was  owing  to  my  young  companion's 
restless  spirit  in  opening  the  door  on  the  night  of 
Saturday,  the  21st  of  March,  that  Mr.  Huddleston 
and  I  were  called  out  by  him  to  see  as  well  as  to  hear 
by  moonlight  one  that  can  compare  with  any  I  have 
ever  witnessed,  if  not  the  largest  of  all. 

Mount  Cook,  I  may  say,  is  of  course  closely  visible 
(so  to  speak)  from  the  Hermitage,  but  there  is  no 
such  view  of  his  general  bulk  as  is  obtainable  along  the 
road.  Meanwhile  there  is  a  unique  excursion  of  a 
day,  by  the  Muir  glacier  with  its  astonishing  cavity, 
over  the  mountains;  and  this,  be  it  observed,  includes 
what  many  afar  longer  one  does  not  afford,  the  excit- 
ing novelty  of  a  glissade.  Other  excursions  there 
are,  but  to  neither  did  I  go,  except  to  the  Muir,  for 
the  weather  was  poor  and  in  part  bad,  and  this  class 
of  excursion  has  long  ceased  to  be  novel  to  me. 


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408  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/NGS, 

We  were  to  close  our  pleasant  visit  on  the  morning 
of  the  23rd,  and  at  about  two  in  the  night  we 
were  waked  by  a  downright  furious  mountain  storm  of 
lightning,  thunder,  and  rain.  At  the  hour  of  starting 
matters  were  calmer,  but  drizzling  rain  still  con- 
tinued for  a  space,  hiding  all  views,  though  the*  weather 
gradually  cleared  up  for  outdoor  luncheon,  and  a  re- 
visit of  the  fern-hens.  Thus  we  came  on  to  Pukaki, 
when,  lo  !  a  dilemma.  In  this  out-of-the-way  spot, 
immediately  after  our  arrival,  the  driver — a  very  good 
one — came  to  inform  us,  to  our  horror,  that  the  axle 
of  the  front  wheels  was  broken,  and  that  the  coach 
could  not  farther  proceed  on  its  arduous  duties. 
What  was  to  be  done  ?  Most  fortunately,  some  extra 
passengers  had  come  up  to  us,  and  were  returning 
with  us  in  their  extra  buggy :  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Marsden, 
and  two  children  ;  and  this  fact,  with  their  very 
willing  and  friendly  combination,  served  to  help  us 
out  of  what  might  have  proved  a  very  inconvenient 
state  of  affairs  indeed.  By  riding  nearly  all  night  to 
and  fro  to  a  distant  station,  the  coachman  managed  to 
borrow  another  small  buggy  and  a  saddle-horse  ;  and 
with  forces  thus  marshalled  wecoveredour  distance  of 
thirty  miles  to  Tekapo,  where  we  took  the  other 
coach  ;  Jack,  to  his  great  delight,  riding  the  thirty 
miles.  Yet  were  we  not  completely  free  from  trouble, 
for  before  we  arrived  at  Fairlie  Creek,  behold  this 
second  coach  broke  down,  in  the  shape  of  the  bursting 
of  a  strap.  I  wonder  how  the  vehicles  stand  the 
journey  at  all.  However,  here  we  were  not  far  from 
our  destination,  and  rough  efforts,  employing  rough 
means,  and  causing  some  little  amusement,  served 
to  carry  us  through. 


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■  NEW  ZEALAND.  4O9 

The  evening  of  the  25th  found  us  at  Coker's  Hotel 
in  the  flourishing  city  of  Christchurch,  the  Cathedral 
city  of  New  Zealand.  But  I  must  not  omit  to 
mention  that  in  passing  through  Timaru,  where  we 
were  detained  for  some  hours,  I  availed  myself  of 
the  opportunity  of  taking  a  very  pretty  drive,  and 
visiting  one  of  those  large  freezing-houses  which 
serve  to  furnish  us  with  so  much  excellent  mutton  in 
England.  We  were  admitted  to  the  real,  dark  Arctic 
regions  of  this  most  astonishing  industry,  and  in  the 
frozen  passes  we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by  hard 
rocky  carcasses,  hanging  dressed  in  winding  sheets, 
destined  to  be  thawed  back,  not  indeed  to  life,  but 
into  a  fitting  state  to  be  devoured  and  enjoyed  by  us 
men  of  prey. 

I  wonder  whether  in  any  other  part  of  the  globe 
any  such  marked  difference  can  be  found  between  two  • 
cities  in  the  same  island,  and  comparatively  close  to 
one  another,  as  exists  between  Christchurch  and  Dun- 
edin.  In  the  former  all  is  hill  and  dale  ;  in  the  latter 
all  is  flat.  In  the  former  prevails  the  atmosphere  of 
the  Kirk  ;  in  the  latter  reigns  the  Church  of  England. 
I  happened  to  be  at  Christchurch  when  the  new 
bishop  preached  his  inaugural  evening  sermon  on 
Easter  Sunday,  and  my  young  companion,  who  had 
early  associations  connected  with  the  cathedral,  urged 
me  to  attend.  We  went  there,  and  the  scene  at  the 
doors  somewhat  reminded  me  of  the  old  scenes  at 
theatres.  Even  standing  room  was  scarcely  to  be 
had  after  the  inward  rush,  and  I  left  him  there  to  find 
his  fate,  which  he  succeeded  in  doing  successfully, 
and  returned  profoundly  impressed  with  the  ceremony 
throughout,  choir  and  sermon  and  all;  nor  did  I  find 


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4IO  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDER/NGS. 

this  impression  to  be  at  all  singular  among  many 
others. 

I  have  said  that  Christchurch  is  flat.  Nevertheless 
between  the  spreading  city  and  its  port,  Port  Lyttle- 
ton,  about  nine  miles  distant,  there  is  an  important 
range  of  hills,  called  the  Port  Hills  ;  and  in  order  to 
facilitate  communication  with  the  port  the  highly 
enterprising  work  was  carried  out  of  driving  a  tunnel 
through,  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half,  under  the 
superintendence  of  Sefton  Moorhouse.  Port  Lyttle- 
ton  is  very  picturesque  and  full  of  life  and  shipping. 
As  to  the  city,  it  will  speak  for  itself.  I  am  well  old 
enough  myself  to  remember  the  first  movements  and 
emigrations  connected  with  the  Canterbury  Settle- 
ment, and  I  beheld  it  with  wonder  in  1891. 

Declining  the  bore  of  attending  the  races  on 
Easter  Monday — what  an  incessant  amount  of  racing 
there  is  in  the  Colonies,  as  also  in  Shanghai  and 
Hongkong! — I  started  early  on  the  31st  of  March 
to  Springfield  by  railway,  on  my  way  to  Greymouth, 
for  the  express  purpose  of  seeing  the  far-famed  Otira 
Gorge,  on  the  road.  The  drive  to  Bealey  cost  forty 
miles,  with  two  changes  of  five  horses  each.  I  found 
the  driving  more  remarkable  than  the  country, 
particularly  in  the  dark  of  the  last  few  miles,  and 
we  came  safely  to  supper  and  bed. 

The  next  morning  was  the  notorious  ist  of  April, 
and  there  was  plenty  of  time  to  pass  the  jest  of  the 
day  upon  us,  for  we  were  waked  at  half-past  four. 
Early  dawn  was  fairly  propitious,  and  in  due  time 
our  coach  started  ;  but  as  we  approached  the  great 
water-shed  that  frowns  over  the  Gorge,  and  showed  a 


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NE IV  ZEALAND.  4 1 1 

height  by  my  aneroid  of  3300  feet,  a  low,  dark  brush 
of  cloud  swept  up  into  our  faces.  Are  we  to  be  dis- 
appointed ?  "  That's  nothing,"  said  the  coachman  ; 
but  it  was  something,  for  it  soon  enveloped  us. 
Much  of  it,  however,  soon  passed  off,  and  when  we 
began  the  real  descent  the  mixture  of  sunshine  and 
luminous  mist  aided  the  eye  with  imagination.  It  is 
a  long  way  to  come  to  see  this  gorge,  which  is 
scarcely  five  miles  in  length  ;  but  it  is  really  a  little 
gem.  One  most  striking  feature  is  its  pitch,  its 
rapid  declivity.  In  the  course  of  its  four  miles  and  a 
half  you  wind  down  fifteen  hundred  feet,  and  though 
you  are  all  too  soon  through  it,  you  may,  if  you 
choose,  remain  at  the  hotel  at  the  foot,  and  wander 
up  and  down  at  your  leisure.  But  the  real  way  to 
see  it  is,  after  all,  to  come  down  it  with  the  surprise 
of  the  descent,  and  with  all  before  you  and  beneath 
you.  There  are  some  towering  rocks  at  the  head, 
but  the  winding  slopes  and  lofty  precipitous  sides  are 
perfectly  mossed  with  foliage,  among  which  I  par- 
ticularly noticed  the  Totira  tree  and  the  black  birch. 
What  we  missed,  being  a  little  too  late  for  it,  was 
the  flowering  of  the  Rata  tree.  Two  large  scarlet 
blossoms  in  the  green  masses  attracted  my  admira- 
tion, and  the  coachman  gave  them  their  name,  but 
added  the  tantalizing  information  that  a  fortnight 
before  the  whole  gorge  was  a-blush  with  them.  So 
that  if  you  go  to  see  the  Otira  Gorge,  go  before  the 
1st  of  April.  After  passing  the  hotel  you  run 
through  a  long  woodland  drive,  where  the  tree-fern 
abounds  to  an  extent  that  reminded  me  of  the  virgin 
forests  of  Brazil  ;    and  the  crossing  of  one  or  two 


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412  WANDERINGS   AND    WONDERINGS. 

stony  dry  beds  of  streams  reminded  me  that  I  had 
a  back.  Thus  we  continued  till  we  came  to  Taipo, 
which  name  belongs  in  native  tongue  to  that  con- 
tinual black  intruder  into  scenery,  whose  ugly  name 
is  introduced  here  because  some  old  chief  was  lost 
in  the  dark  river. 

We  now  left  the  coach  and  came  to  Greymouth, 
passing  over  a  wooden  tramway  running  through  a 
thick  wood,  and  at  Greymouth  I  resolved  to  take 
the  steamer  direct  to  Wellington.  This  I  did  by  (I 
believe)  the  Mawketra,  Captain  Manning.  The  good 
captain  could  not,  of  course,  do  what  was  never 
yet  done,  not  even  by  King  Canute,  command  the 
winds  and  the  waves,  and  they  would  indeed,  in  the 
opposite  case,  have  required  his  very  strongest  com- 
mand here ;  for  if  some  of  our  coach  passages 
had  shown  what  wrenching  and  jarring  were,  so  did 
Cook's  Strait  show  us  what  rolling  was  until  the  last 
minute  of  the  last  of  the  many  late  hours  which 
landed  us  safely  in  Port  Nicholson  and  the 
Occidental  Hotel  at  Wellington.  And  so,  farewell 
to  the  South  Island,  or  rather  Middle  Island,  from 
which  I  part,  but  of  which  I  bring  along  with  me 
many  additions  to  many  pleasant  memories  heaped 
up  elsewhere,  and  not  forgotten.  I  have  said  Middle 
Island  because  the  small  Stewart  Island  is  numbered 
as  the  South  Island.  My  only  regret  at  not  having 
visited  this  spot  of  earth  is  that  I  missed  seeing  the 
almost  fabulous  crowds  of  the  large  penguin  that  in 
days  gone  by  appeared  in  the  old  engravings. 

In  Wellington  we  have  the  seat  of  Government, 
and  we  have  again  a  very  undulating  hillside  city, 


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NEW  ZEALAND.  413 

for  it  is  built  upon  the  very  shores  of  its  land-locked 
port,  Port  Nicholson.  Its  importance  in  the  colony 
speaks  for  itself;  it  can  boast  of  many  leading  features, 
and  among  others — though  I  know  not  if  this  be 
actually  a  boast — of  a  prodigious  quantity  of  high 
winds.  The  story  goes  that  wheresoever  you  meet 
a  Wellington  man  you  may  always  know  him  by  his 
instinctively  holding  his  hat  every  time  he  turns  a 
corner  with  you.  After  you  have  visited  all  the  usual 
buildings  of  a  city,  take  a  drive,  as  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  doing  with  Mr.  Parfitt,  of  the  New  Zealand  Bank, 
and  his  niece.  Miss  Newell,  of  Sounds  memory, 
round  Evans'  Bay,  and  visit  the  public  park. 
Note  also  the  very  fine  Club,  and  ask  Mr.  Parfitt  to 
give  you  a  lunch  there.  Here  also  I  renewed  my 
acquaintance  and  dined  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Miles  and 
Miss  Rowlands. 

On  the  8th  of  April  I  went  on  to  Palmerston  and 
slept,  and  the  question  was,  Should  I  go  on  to  Auck- 
land through  the  sulphur  districts,  or  go  to  New 
Plymouth  and  take  the  steamer.  I  had  already  seen 
larger  sulphur  districts,  for  which  I  have  no  affection  ; 
and  I  fairly  shrank  from  going  to  look  on  a  chaos 
only  to  be  told  "  Here  the  terraces  once  were."  I 
therefore  turned  off"  to  Wanganui,  having,  however, 
first  made  an  excursion  to  Woodville  and  back,  in 
order  to*  see  the  well-worth-seeing  Manawatu  Gorge. 
At  Wanganui  the  air  seemed  to  me  to  be  particularly 
fine  during  a  two  hours'  drive  along  the  banks  of  the 
river,  which  we  had  followed  in  the  gorge.  The 
country  was  undulating  and  pleasing,  and  though  the 
gorse  to  a  New  Zealander^s  eye  may  not  be  pleasing. 


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414  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

yet  to  my  English  eyes  to  see  rich  and  abundant 
blossom  all  round  was  a  delight.  At  New  Plymouth 
we  missed  Mount  Egmont,  for  the  weather  wa?  very 
thick.  Thence  the  Takapuna  took  us  to  Onehunga, 
and  running  across  the  eight  miles  by  ten  o'clock,  we 
arrived  at  "  Craig's  Star  Hotel,"  in  Auckland,  where  I 
met  my  old  "  Sound  '^  American  friends  of  Melbourne, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Newell.  We  were  all  bound  for 
Sydney,  and  not  only  so,  but  when  the  steamer 
touched  to  take  us  there,  we  learned  to  our  satis- 
faction that  it  was  our  "  Sounds  "  boat,  the  Tarawera^ 
with  Captain  Sinclair  and  his  officers  again  on 
board. 

Though  Auckland  has  lost  the  seat  of  Government, 
it  still  claims  to  be  the  largest  city  in  New  Zealand  ; 
and  certainly  it  has  not  lost  the  diversified  beauties 
of  its  position.  You  must,  of  course,  at  least  drive  to 
Mount  Eden  and  survey  the  scene.  Its  disadvantage 
is  that  the  city  cannot  be  reached  by  ships  on  the  west 
coast ;  but  if  the  day  should  come  when  a  sufficiently 
large  canal  can  be  cut  through  to  unite  it  nautically 
with  Manukau  Harbour,  its  importance  would  be 
vastly  increased,  and  perhaps  it  might  then  call 
itself  the  principal  port  in  New  Zealand.  What 
time  may  develop  here  and  almost  everywhere  else 
in  these  islands  remains  to  be  known  by  those  who 
will  belong  to  coming  generations.  That  the  natural 
energies  of  the  people  may  have  led  them  to  take  too 
great  early  strides  has  its  obvious  inconveniences, 
but  is  no  bad  sign,  for  it  betokens  a  desire  to  advance, 
which  is  always  better  than  a  lounging  inactivity. 
We   need   not    anticipate    Lord  Macaulay's    figure, 


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NEW  ZEALAND.  4IS 

which  he  borrowed  from  Volney;  but  that  New 
Zealand  must  necessarily  grow  into  greatness  is,  we 
may  fairly  hope,  a  surer  prophecy  than  that  her  sons 
may  sit  upon  a  broken  bridge  and  stare  at  the  ruins 
of  London.  God  speed  both  Mother  Country  and 
Colony. 


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XXXVII. 

We  all  felt  ourselves  quite  at  home  on  board  the 
Tarawera,  and  there  was  no  doubt  we  recalled  the 
"  Sounds "  to  Captain  Sinclair.  We  embarked  on 
the  14th  of  April,  and  we  steamed  in  between  the 
Heads  of  Sydney  about  five  in  the  afternoon,  all  our 
party  finding  their  way  up  the  beautiful  harbour  to  the 
quay,  and  thence  to  the  well-known  Grosvenor;  one, 
at  all  events,  among  us,  who  was  born  in  the  Mother 
Country,  reflecting  much  on  the  imposing  fact  of  thus 
sailing,  at  the  Antipodes,  from  one  splendid  colony  to 
another,  both  belonging  to  the  Crown  at  home. 

From  Sydney  I  was  to  sail  for  San  Francisco,  and 
as  the  Alameda  was  marked  for  the  20th,  the  very 
next  day  after  our  arrival,  I  could  not  leave  before 
the  1 8th  of  May  by  the  Mariposa^  Captain  Hay  ward, 
who  had  taken  me  out  to  Honolulu  from  'Frisco  in 
1886.  On  the  20th,  however,  I  went  down  to  call  on 
Captain  Morse,  who  had  taken  me  back  from  Hono- 
lulu ;  and  then  the  next  question  was,  how  to  fill  up 
my  time  in  the  great  city  of  Sydney.  I  made  two 
excursions  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Newell  before  they  left 
for  Melbourne,  one  to  the  Paramatta  River,  and 
the  other  to  the  Middle  Harbour.  Both  were  in- 
teresting ;  but  there  was  another,  to  me,  much 
more  so.  It  was  a  drive  with  Mr.  Fleming,  a  friend 
of  theirs,  who  took  us  to  Botany  Bay,  and  there  we 


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SYDNEY  AGAIN.  417 

lunched  at  the  hotel  which  bears  the  name  of  Sir 
Kdward  Banks,  and  across  the  water  we  saw  the 
obelisk  which  was  erected  on  the  spot  where  Cap- 
tain Cook  is  said  to  have  first  set  foot  in  1 770* 
This  Botany  Bay  was  always  associated  in  our 
youthful  minds  with  transportation  and  convict 
settlement.  Little  did  I  know  at  that  time  that  its 
name  was  given, — not  in  connection  with  ruffians,  but 
— because  it  exhibited  such  a  wealth  of  plants  and 
flowers.  Indeed,  it  never  was  really  a  convict 
settlement,  for  it  was  soon  found  to  be  fit  only 
for  flowers,  and  the  convict  settlement  was  moved 
farther  up  to  Sydney.  The  effect  was  curious  on 
finding  one's  self  upon  this  very  spot,  and  locally 
associated  with  the  names  of  Cook  and  Banks. 
What  was  going  on  there  at  the  moment,  however, 
awakened  very  different  thoughts  ;  these  were 
races,  and  I  believe  that  these  were  the  moving  cause 
of  Mr.  Fleming's  most  acceptable  thought. 

After  my  friends  had  left  for  Melbourne,  Jack  and 
I  went  up  to  see  the  Jenolan  Caves — the  usual  limous 
stalactite  caves — the  name  being,  I  believe,  corrupted 
from  that  of  the  man  who  discovered  them,  James 
Nolan.  Our  first  day  was  to  Mount  Victoria,  and  our 
second  to  the  caves  themselves,  visiting  the  Imperial 
Cave  in  the  afternoon  of  our  arrival.  As  I  had  seen 
many  others,  including  those  very  grand  caves  at 
Adelsberg,  which  I  was  the  means  of  having  properly 
lighted,  as  explained  in  the  Graphic  some  years  ago, 
I  did  not  drain  the  cup  by  going  into  the  others. 
This  cave,  however,  is  indeed  well  worth  a  visit.  It 
exhibits  remarkable  features  of  both  stalactite  and 

E  e 


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41 8  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

Stalagmite,  and  is  exceedingly  well  lighted.  It  is  the 
best  of  the  group,  but  does  not  equal  the  great  cave  at 
Adelsberg  ;  not  only  are  its  massive  structures  infe- 
rior, but  the  surfaces  are  dry  and  dull,  whereas  those 
at  Adelsberg  are  in  a  perpetual  state  of  glittering 
moisture.  The  approach  to  the  station  is  very  fine, 
and  so  are  the  extensive  views  you  obtain  on  the 
road ;  but  the  general,  almost  exclusive,  foliage  is 
that  of  the  blue  gum  tree. 

In  returning,  we  did  not  go  direct  to  Sydney,  but 
continued  to  Katoomba,  diverging  again  in  order  to 
see  Govett's  Leap.  Here  the  scene  is  very  remark- 
able. You  stand  on  an  absolute  precipice  ;  far  away 
in  front  of  you  are  distant  ridges,  and  the  whole 
gigantic  space  between,  lying  some  800  to  lOOO  feet 
below,  and  rising  up  on  the  two  sides,  is  a  densely- 
wooded  forest,  adorned  by  a  waterfall.  The  foliage 
here  again  is  mainly  of  the  blue  gum  tree  ;  but  poor 
as  this  tree  is  when  close  at  hand,  in  the  thick  and 
distant  forests  its  effects  are  remarkably  soft.  From 
the  Leap  we  went  on  to  Katoomba,  and  lodged  at 
Mr.  Goydcr's  spacious  hotel,  the  "  Carrington." 
Hence  we  went  to  see  the  Katoomba  Falls,  and 
afterwards  the  Leura  Falls.  You  may  fairly  class 
all  these  three  views  together ; 

"  facias  non  omnibus  una, 
Nee  di versa  tamen." 

On  the  iith  of  May  we  returned  to  Sydney;  not 
to  be  idle,  however,  we  arranged  tickets  for  the 
Hawksbury  River,  but  neither  of  us  found  himself 
able  to  rise  to  the  level  of  the  exaggerations. 


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SYDNEY  AGAIN.  419 

We  had  now  to  think  of  leaving  our  pleasant 
quarters  and  to  prepare  for  our  passage  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. Sydney,  like  the  rest  of  the  world  out  there,  is 
growing,  and  the  old  city  is  fast  giving  way  to  the 
new.  Whether  the  huge  new  hotel  I  left  in  building 
and  arranging  will,  for  the  present  at  all  events,  find 
the  huge  support  that  it  must  require  to  be  successful, 
remains  to  be  proved. 

Meanwhile  the  Grosvenor  will  pursue  the  even 
tenor  of  its  way,  and  life  and  movement  will  increase 
and  multiply.  What  a  mighty  world  has  sprung 
up  out  in  these  regions  since  Captain  Cook  and 
Edward  Banks  first  landed  in  the  little  Endeavour^  of 
370  tons  burden,  in  1770.  But  what  of  that?  In 
1992  men  will  say,  "  What  a  little  place  Sydney  was  in 
1892  I "  Nevertheless,  great  as  may  be  the  after- 
growth, great  is  indeed  he  who  plants  the  first  foot. 

So  away  we  went  for  'Frisco  at  four  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  of  Whit  Monday,  the  i8th  of  May,  and 
began  with  a  very  unpleasant  rolling  four  days' 
passage  to  Auckland  ;  and  here  we  encountered  that 
very  inconvenience,  already  spoken  of,  of  having  to 
round  the  North  Cape  and  come  down  to  Auckland 
and  return  north  again,  which  will  one  day  be 
remedied  by  the  grand  canal  that  is  to  be  cut  to 
Manukau  Harbour.  Sailing  again,  at  2  p.m.  on  the 
next  day,  the  23rd,  we  steamed  into  fairer  weather, 
and  on  the  24th,  being  the  Queen's  birthday.  Cap- 
tain Hayward  ordered  the  Mariposa  to  be  dressed 
throughout  with  the  united  flags  of  both  nations. 
The  scene  was  especially  lively,  and  so  were  all  the 
passengers  a't  evening,  songs,  music,  and  recitals 
E  e  2 


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420  WAN£>ERINGS  AND    WONDERIXGS. 

abounding — the  Rev.   Dr.  Ellis,  who  was  returning^ 
home   with    Mrs.  Ellis  after   many   years'  absence, 
acting  as  the  Corypheus.     Then  on  the  30th   it  was 
Decoration  Day  in  the  States,  and  twin  decorations 
and  entertainments  again  adorned  the  occasion.     In 
short,  there  was  an  abundant  show  of  games  and 
pleasant  evenings  all   through  the  passage,  without 
the  necessity  of  solving  the  problem  of  the  change 
of  time  when  we  passed  out  of  eastern  into  western 
longitude  across  the  meridian  of  180°.     We  had  a 
splendid  plunge  bath  on  deck  while  it  was  hot,  and 
many  lovely  mornings,  glittered  with  ten  thousand 
sparkling  stars  upon  the  quiet  purple  ocean,  as  it  threw 
forth  in  front  its  white  fringes  of  foam,  in  seeming  lazy 
protest  against  the  rude  disturbance  of  our  prow. 

But  on  one  of  these  mornings  there  was  a  stoppage 
and  a  tremendous  rush  to  the  port  bulwark.     We  had 
touched   at  one  of  the  Samoan  Islands,  to  drop  a 
missionary,  if  I  remember  rightly,  and  to  take  some 
one  up.     Natives,  male  and  female,  were  in  the  boats, 
and  we  gazed  on  them  long  enough  to  find  they  were 
fine-looking  people ;  and  with  that  we  separated,  our 
next  incident  being  our  arrival  at  Honolulu.     This 
was  on  the  3rd  of  June.     Many  of  us  naturally  dis- 
embarked   until    the   following  day   at    noon,  and 
parties  were  made  from  the  Royal  Hawaiian  Hotel 
to  the  Pali.     The  scene  was  not  new  to  me  ;  but  I 
chartered   an  open  carriage  with  Colonel  Carr,  and 
Jack  came  with  us.     Two   large   parties  filled  two 
other    carriages,    and    the    goddess  was     thus    far 
honoured.     How  many  changes   have  come  about 
here  since  my  already  published  visit  in  1886 1 


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SAN  FRANC/SCO.  421 

We  were  now  approaching  San  Francisco,  for  it 
was  the  loth,  and  as  we  did  so  nearer  and  nearer,  the 
fog,  as  usual,  was  there  to  wrap  us  in  its  cold,  unwel- 
come covering.  Heavily  were  we  greeted  on  the 
morning  of  our  arrival,  on  the  nth  of  June;  and 
harshly  were  we  waked  at  early  morning  by  the 
hideous  tolling  of  the  fog  bell.  This  is  again  a 
foggy  entrance  for  me — the  fourth  —  without  the 
chance  of  seeing  "  The  Golden  Gate."  We  landed 
at  noon,  and  having  now  seen  so  much  of  Chinamen 
in  their  own  country,  I  declined  the  "Palace,"  which 
is  full  of  them,  and  went  with  the  captain  and  purser 
and  several  other  passengers  to  the  very  comfortable 
Occidental  Hotel  at  No.  240,  Montgomery  Street. 
So  here  I  was  again  at  San  Francisco,  and  prepared 
to  renew  my  journey  through  the  States,  and  again 
to  hail  the  Americans  with  their  jugs  of  cream  and 
rockinsr-chairs. 


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XXXVIII. 

My  two  leading  objects  at  San  Francisco  were  the 
excursion  to  Alaska,  which  I  had  missed,  as  in  my 
former  journey  recounted,  in  1886  ;  and  a  visit  to  the 
renowned  Lick  Observatory  on  Mpunt  Hamilton.  As 
regards  the  first,  I  immediately  put  myself  into  com- 
munication with  my  friend  of  1 886,  Mr.  Hutchinson, 
and  secured  my  two  tickets  for  the  19th,  and  accepted 
his  Saturday  to  Monday  invitation  to  the  Hotel  San 
Rafael,  which  lies  across  the  bay  and  at  the  end  of 
a  short  railway.  Thus,  at  last,  I  came  to  see  this 
bay.  The  afternoon  was  perfectly  fine,  and  we 
crossed  the  entrance,  the  Oceanic  at  the  moment 
steaming  proudly  before  us  on  her  outward  voyage. 
The  general  effect  was  well  worth  witnessing,  but 
"  The  Golden  Gates,"  as  usual,  did  not  quite  come 
up  to  what  I  had  been  led  to  expect.  At  the  sa-me 
time,  I  have  no  doubt  that  from  this  point  you  lose 
a  great  deal  of  the  impression  which  is  produced  by 
actually  entering  from  the  ocean. 

The  hotel  of  which  I  speak  is  really  beautifully 
situated  in  very  handsome  grounds  of  its  own,  sur- 
rounded by  undulating  and  wooded  scenery,  with  a 
large  mountain  close  in  view,  called  Tamil  Pais,  and 
a  ridged  middle  distance  between ;  and  if  you  will 
mount  the  water-tower  you  may  thoroughly  command 
all  about  you.     The  building  is  perfectly  new   and 


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ALASKA.  423 

everything  pleasant,  except  the  perpetual  music  all 
dinnertime — when  people  who  know  what  comfort 
IS  like  to  be  quiet — in  which  someone  was  far  too 
proud  of  his  performances  on  "  the  ear-piercing  fife." 
This  retreat  from  'Frisco  was  a  discovery  I  had  not 
looked  for,  and  I  recommend  the  trial  of  it  to  all. 
The  air  is  perfect. 

On  the  19th,  then,  Jack  and  I  started  for  Alaska. 
But  when  I  say  Alaska,  as  everyone  else  does,  it  will 
not  be  supposed  that  the  real  immense  territory  of  that 
name,  with  its  immense  river,  Yukon,  is  intended.  The 
continually  talked  of  and  numerously  attended  ex- 
cursion extends  qnly  up  part  of  the  narrow  southern 
shred  of  it,  as  far  as  what  is  called  Glacier  Bay,  and 
there  it  is  that  you  behold  the  great  culminating  point, 
the  Great  Muir  Glacier,  that  lies  along  the  whole 
top  of  that  bay.  I  had  better  say  nothing  about  the 
(so  called)  descriptive  guide-books,  for  I  cannot 
approach  them  in  their  language  of  ecstatic  imagina- 
tion, and  must  therefore  tread  my  humble  path  alone 
and  speak  accordingly. 

We  left  at  9  a.m.  by  the  Walla  Walla,  Captain 
Wallace,  for  Victoria,  where  we  were  to  meet  the 
Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company's  Qtieen,  Captain 
Carroll,  coming  from  Puget's  Sound,  and  we  arrived 
there  late  at  night,  where  I  took  up  my  old  quarters 
of  1886  at  Mr.  Hardnagel's  Driard  House  Hotel. 
The  passage  up  was  to  me  eventful,  because  I  twice 
saw  what  I  had  for  so  many  years  longed  to  see,  the 
thrasher-fish  attacking  the  whale.  Both  these  fish 
separately  I  had  seen,  the  whale  very  often,  and  the 
thrasher  once  only  in  the  Bay  of  Panama.     In  both 


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424  U'AKDERJNGS  AKD    WONDERINGS. 

these  cases,  as  was  confirmed  on  board,  there  appeared 
to  be  two  thrashers  to  each  whale.  The  style  of  attack, 
as  you  may  know,  is  that  the  active  thrasher  raises 
himself  high  in  the  water  and  comes  down  with  all 
his  weight  and  hard  under-substance,  gradually 
beating  the  breath  and  life  out  of  the  whale.  What 
the  motive  is,  continues  debatable  among  fish  his- 
torians. Whether  the  motive  is  pure  hatred,  such  as 
that  which  exists  between  races  of  men,  or  whether  it 
is  for  devouring  objects,  such  as  that  which  also 
exists  among  lords  of  creation,  I  make  no  attempt  to 
discuss  here ;  but  many  assert  that  the  object  of  prey  is 
the  whale's  tongue.  The  first  attack  was  near  enough 
for  us  to  hear  the  tremendous  thuds  with  which  the 
thrasher  came  down.  Anything  more  like  what 
might  be  a  great  black  water  devil — a  highly  hetero- 
dox one,  I  allow — I  could  not  imagine,  and  when  I 
caught  first  sight  of  the  monster  I  almost  thought  it 
was  one.  Even  if  the  whale  dives  he  must  come  up 
again  for  breath ;  and  the  thrasher  is  there  to 
receive  him  with  all  welcome.  But  what  is  as  true 
as  the  rest  of  the  story  is,  that  almost  always  the 
thrasher  is  aided  by  a  swordfish,  who  prods  the  whale 
underneath  and  prevents  his  even  fruitless  prolonga- 
tion of  suffering  by  diving.  Thus  it  would  appear 
that  the  object  of  both  must  be  prey,  and  an  easy 
instinct  soon  brings  them  together  for  the  attack. 

I  hope  you  don't  think  this  short  description  too 
long.  I  was  glad  of  the  diversion  and  of  its  memo- 
ries, for  (except  for  several  of  the  passengers  on 
board)  I  found  a  great  deal  of  our  Alaska  passage 
very  monotonous.     We  left  our  moorings  at  Victoria 


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ALASKA.  425 

at  6  a.m.  on  Tuesday,  the  23rd  of  June,  and  our 
weather  was  cold  and  windy,  though  somewhat 
sunny.  The  next  day  we  reached  Fort  Wrangel, 
and  stayed  some  hours  in  that  uninteresting  spot  for 
the  tide.  Here  we  were  in  perpetual  twilight.  We 
passed  the  twenty-five  miles  of  Wrangel's  "  Wrangel 
Narrows  " — but  not  Miss  Scidmore's  "  Wrangel  Nar- 
rows," which  I  vainly  strove  to  discern — and  then 
we  came  upon  the  fine  Patterson  Glacier  {America 
glazier)  on  our  right,  the  grand  feature  of  which  is 
its  great  depth.  Here  in  the  pearly  light  of  half- past 
eight  or  nine  we  anchored  in  a  fine  open  bay,  with  a 
fair  show  of  effective  mountains  at  various  points. 

On  the  next  day  we  came  to  the  Taku  Glacier  at 
an  early  hour,  and  found  ourselves  surrounded  with 
the  arctic  scene  of  water  it  had  created  by  covering 
the  surface  far  and  wide  with  larger  or  smaller  ice- 
floes. Nor  was  it  by  any  means  uninteresting  to 
mark  the  fishing  up  into  the  steamer  by  iron  grapnels 
of  huge  carcases  of  these  floes,  for  ice  supplies.  We 
continued  on  to  Juneau.  The  weather  was  not 
propitious.  On  the  27th  we  hailed  a  fine  morning, 
which  soon  began  to  confess  its  falsehood,  by  frown- 
ing into  cloud  and  wind  ;  and  thus  we  passed  to 
Chilcat.  Today  the  vast  Davidson  Glacier  walled 
the  waters  in  its  cove  ;  and  there  stands  out  another, 
much  higher  up,  much  whiter,  and  in  some  respects 
more  impressive.  Here  the  rugged  mountain  ranges 
became  more  striking  than  they  had  been  heretofore, 
appearing  above  the  continuous,  unchanging,  dead 
green  of  the  unpicturesque  pine,  or  spruce,  or  cypress. 
We  left  Chilcat  about  lunch-time,  and  now  we  were 


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426  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

bound  for  our  culminating  limit,  Glacier  Bay,  anchor- 
ing for  the  night  in  the  arctic  scene  of  Bartlett's  Bay. 
At  4  a.m.  on  the  28th  we  made  the  first  turn  of  the 
screw,  and  about  one  minute  more  we  made  the  first 
blow  against  a  floe  ;  and  far  indeed  was  it  from  the 
last.  It  was  one  continued  course  of  blows  against 
the  floes  till  we  came  at  length  into  full  front  view 
of  the  great  Muir  Glacier.  We  did  not,  however, 
anchor  very  near ;  near  enough  to  give  a  fair  per- 
spective view.  It  rises  a  complete  congeries  of  pre- 
cipitous ice  precipices  and  pinnacles  above  the  surface 
of  the  water,  and  it  should  be  at  once  remembered, 
so  as  to  appreciate  its  volume,  that  it  must  lie  deep 
and  very  deep  below.  The  width  of  the  face  is  called 
three  miles,  and  the  height  is  said  to  vary  from  200 
to  300  feet.  That  this  height  must,  in  the  pro- 
portions that  surround  it,  disappoint  many  at  first 
sight,  if  they  dared  speak  frankly,  I  know  without 
asking.  One  passenger,  indeed,  at  once  said  to  me, 
ironically  :  "  Don't  say  it's  a  humbug,*'  to  which  I 
replied,  '*Wait  awhile."  People's  eyes  should  be 
accustomed  to  these  scenes.  But  disappointment  is 
the  fruit  of  so  much  out-of-breath  nonsense  that  is 
written.  The  blight  and  the  curse  of  all  fine  scenery 
is  the  commonplace  exaggerator.  We  all,  or  nearly 
all,  took  boat  and  went  on  shore,  many  up  the 
debris  and  on  to  the  top  ;  but  with  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Yarnell  and  two  or  three  ladies  I  chose  rather  to 
walk  along  the  shore  up  nearly  to  the  foot ;  and 
this,  for  me,  is  the  sight  to  see.  On  near  approach 
you  become  aware  of  the  craggy  variety  of  the  front 
surface;  of  the  shadows,  the  ice  shadows,  and  the 


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ALASKA.  427 

ice  lights  of  the  innumerable  recesses,  spearings,  and 
projections.  All  this  was  truly  effective  to  behold, 
though  the  day  was  dull ;  but  presently,  by  great 
favour,  I  suppose,  the  sun  shone  forth,  and  lasted  us 
for  twenty  minutes.  His  rays  struck  at  a  propitious 
angle;  and  then  came  the  colouring.  From  dark 
cobalt,  through  every  stage  of  blue,  through  seeming 
golden  blues,  through  and  beyond  all  ultramarine 
blues,  these  colours  varied.  I  have  never  seen  any- 
thing approaching  to  this  twenty  minutes*  scene  of 
fairy  colouring  anywhere  else,  nor  do  I  know  any 
other  spot  that  offers  such  a  chance  ;  and  if  you  really 
wish  to  appreciate  this  glacier,  you  must  thus  walk 
up  to  it — and  take  your  hat  off.  Before  we  left,  the 
steamer  was  brought  up  much  closer  to  the  full  front, 
and  there  we  stood  ;  but  there  was  no  more  sun,  and 
those  who  had  walked  over  a  small  speck  of  the  top 
saw  no  colour.  Note  also,  when  you  are  on  the 
shore,  where  we  were,  you  have  the  great  advantage  of 
a  diagonal  view.  Mount  "  Fainveather  ^'  was  indoors. 
We  sailed  in  the  afternoon  for  Sitka,  the  curious 
capital  of  mighty  Alaska  ;  and  presently  we  were  all 
thrown  off  our  feet.  We  had  struck  a  huge  floe  and 
bent  a  flange  in  course  of  extrication,  giving  us  an 
infantine  hint  of  what  might  be  the  sensation  of  a 
large  ship  striking  against  a  large  iceberg.  Otherwise, 
we  came  safe  to  Sitka.  Here,  alas !  the  morning  of  the 
29th  was  wet,  and  prevented  full  appreciation  of  the 
scene,  including  the  rather  too  distant  Mount  Edge- 
combe, seeing  he  is  not  3000  feet  high.  The  who^e 
picture  should  be  very  pleasing,  but  why  its  would-be 
friends   should   insult  the   place   by  writing   that  it 


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428  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDFRrNGS. 

"  surpasses  the  Bay  of  Naples  in  the  grandeur  and 
beauty  of  its  surroundings  " — grandeur,  moreover,  not 
being  at  all  the  leading  feature  of  the  Bay  of  Naples 
— I  leave  Sitka  to  inquire.  The  phrase  is  stark 
nonsense,  and  has  no  sort  of  application  whatever. 
In  the  afternoon  we  left  on  our  return,  and  I  amused 
myself  for  some  little  time  upon  the  high  deck  in 
watching  the  steamer  through  the  vast  quiet  windings, 
and  persuading  myself  into  the  harmless  belief  that 
we  were  wandering  nowhere.  But  small  red  flags 
here  and  there  kept  renewing  a  sense  of  certainty 
through  almost  exciting  bewilderment. 

This  for  a  time  relieved  the  monotony  I  have 
hinted  at ;  and  that  monotony  chiefly  arises  from 
the  dead,  dark  green,  colourless  colour  of  the  con- 
tinual and  oppressive  srameness  of  common  outline, 
covered  over  with  mere  peaks  of  mountain  firs  and 
pines  and  cypress.  The  forests,  instead  of  being  a 
delight,  are  an  oppression  ;  and  this  is  the  case  all 
through  and  through  from  Puget's  Sound.  Nor  are 
there  any  really  grand  outside  crags  to  relieve  the 
eye  sufficiently  from  the  weight  of  this  impression. 
But  you  may  put  up  with  it  if  you  are  very  curious 
indeed  to  see  the  arctic  floes  and  glaciers  on  the 
water.  For  my  own  part,  I  am  very  pleased  to  have 
made  the  excursion,  and  do  not  deny  that  I  was 
fairly  interested  in  so  doing,  though  I  must  admit  it 
did  not  occur  to  me  to  "  sigh  breathlessly  in  the 
ecstasy  of  joy,"  possessing,  I  suppose,  only  that  some- 
what curiously  described  phenomenon,  "an  earthly 
and  material  soul." 

However,   it  is  always   pleasant    to    see    people 


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ALASKA.  429 

pleased  ;  and  for  the  Americans  I  must  say  this, 
that  when  they  are  out  on  a  holiday  they  are  deter- 
mined to  be  pleased.  Moreover,  if  they  can  only  get 
an  Englishman  among  them  they  are  set  on  drawing 
the  badger  ;  and  if  they  can  only  urge  him  to  make 
a  speech  and  say  something  friendly  and  pleasant  to 
them  and  of  them,  and  join  in  their  merry  carouse, 
you  are  a  mark  at  once.  Your  American  is  jolly 
independent,  but  he  is  jolly  sensitive  too,  particularly 
as  to  what  the  Old  Country  thinks  of  him  ;  and  he 
cleaves  to  the  meridian  of  Greenwich,  for  he  knows 
it  gives  the  giant  offspring  his  pedigree  among  the 
nations.  In  the  books  of  two  ladies  I  was  even 
summoned  to  write  a  distich,  which  will  show  the 
chaff  and  goodwill  prevailing  :  and  as  the  inspirers 
insisted  they  were  without  fail  to  see  their  lines  in 
my  book,  each  will  recall  her  own.  Both  were,  to  a 
certain  extent,  tender.      This  was  the  first : 

Alaska  breathed  a  magic  charm, 

For  midst  her  ice  the  heart  grew  warm. 

And  this  being  shown,  behold,  another  pen  was  put 
into  my  hand,  and  I  wrote  the  second  ; 

Meeting  was  joy,  and  parting  would  be  sorrow, 
Did  Hope  not  breathe— Believe  in  a  to-morrow. 

There  was  yet  one  more.  The  next  was  moved  by 
a  challenge  that  when  everyone  else  is  happy  you 
yourself  ought  to  be  so,  and  would  therefore  never  be 
sad: — 

Thrice-happy  heart,  of  feeling  true, 

Happy,  when  all  are  happy  too  ; 

Yet  thou,  in  turn,  must  anguish  find 

When  Fate  to  others  proves  unkind. 


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430  WANDERINGS.   AND    WONDERINGS. 

We  touched  at  Nanaimo  for  coaling,  and  remained 
all  day  taking  in  their  black  and  dirty  wealth,  and 
sailed  at  midnight.  But  until  electricity  be  developed 
into  a  common  moving  power,  what  a  real  black 
diamond  coal  is  ;  and  all  praise  indeed  to  those  who 
carefully,  most  carefully,  regard  our  precious  "  Coal- 
ing Stations  "  ! 

On  arriving  at  Victoria  at  about  six  in  the  morn- 
ing, by  great  good  luck  we  found  the  Umatella  there, 
which  was  to  sail  at  eleven.  It  lay  on  the  other  side 
of  the  wharf,  so  that  we  had  only  to  walk  across  after 
breakfast  and  get  on  board,  when  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  making  the  acquaintance  of  Captain  Holmes,  and 
was  accompanied  by  Mr.  Tedcastle,  the  Company's 
Treasurer,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Talbott,  all  of  whom 
had  been  fellow-passengers  to  Alaska.  We  had  a 
remarkably  pleasant  passage,  with  a  remarkably 
good  Captain's  table,  arriving  at  ^Frisco  on  Sunday 
night,  the  sth  of  July,  but  too  late  to  land ;  thus 
making  sixteen  days  for  the  excursion,  by  the 
Monday  morning. 


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XXXIX. 

My  visit  to  the  Observatory  on  Mount  Hamilton 
was  now  to  be  accomplished,  in  order  to  see  that 
remarkable  establishment,  and  to  gaze  upon  the 
Moon  through  the  largest  telescope  in  the  world. 
For  this  particular  object  the  moment  was  most  pro- 
pitious, for  it  was  now  new  moon,  and  in  a  few 
nights  she  would  present  the  best  aspect  for  the  cross 
lights,  just  before  the  first  quarter.  Accordingly,  by 
the  help  of  my  friends,  I  obtained  an  interview  with 
one  of  the  trustees,  Mr.  Phelps,  of  the  Customs,  who 
gave  me  a  letter  to  Dr.  Edward  S.  Holden,  the 
Resident  Director,  which  I  immediately  forwarded 
to  him  on  the  6th,  announcing  my  intended  visit. 
The  truth  is,  I  was  anxious  for  the  night  of  Friday, 
the  loth,  because  the  Saturdays  are  fixed  public 
days,  and  I  feared  interruption  if  I  took  that  chance 
only. 

Therefore  on  Friday,  the  Qth,  I  and  my  young 
companion  started  by  the  afternoon  fast  train  for 
San  Jos^,  and  dined  and  slept  at  the  **  Vendome,'* 
where  I  received  my  answer  from  the  professor  with 
instructions.  Accordingly,  at  half-past  seven  on  the 
loth,  we  were  on  the  early  post-car  to  begin  our 
journey,  and  a  truly  remarkable  one  it  was  ;  for  the 
elevation  at  which  the  Observatory  stands  is  no  less 
than  one  of  4209  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 


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432  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

and  the  winding  road  that  mounts  to  it  presents  a 
most  ingenious  effort  of  engineering.  Nor  does  the 
scenery  fail  to  correspond'  The  large  white  dome 
that  contains  the  monster  telescope  soon  became 
apparent^  and  so  continued  showing  itself,  like  a 
constant  landmark  of  invitation,  while  we  wound 
about  among  evergreen  oaks  covered  with  abundant 
mistletoe,  with  the  jDeautiful  Santa  Clara  Valley  and 
Hall's  Valley  opening  more  and  more  uport  us  as  we 
ascended.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  unhappily, 
all  was  brown ;  but  in  spring  the  excursion  must  be 
nothing  less  than  lovely,  well  worth  the  drive  with- 
out the  Observatory ;  only  if  there  had  been  no 
Observatory  there  would  have  been  no  road.  As  it 
was,  we  gazed  on  vineyards,  corn-fields  (corn  in  our 
sense),  and  flowering  shrubs,  and  arriving  at  the 
entrance,  I  was  immediately  met  by  Dr.  Holden. 

A  walk  all  over  the  grounds  and  the  establishment 
was  the  first  order  of  the  day,  and  I  stood  under  the 
dome  in  wondering  and  respectful  attitude.  By-and- 
by  we  were  hoping  to  wonder  more.  Outside  we 
saw  the  Coast  Range,  the  Diabolo  Range,  and  the 
Sierra  Nevada ;  and  the  head  even  pf  the  bay  of 
San  Francisco  was  to  be  seen  also.  But,  welcome 
as  ye  are,  all  ye  views,  "  Watchman,  what  of  the 
night?''  "We  are  liable  to  hill  fogs,"  said  the 
Professor,  "but  I  hope  we  shall  be  clear  to-night, 
though  there  is  an  appearance  I  don't  quite  like." 
And  when  night  came  there  really  was  an  appearance 
that  none  of  us  liked  at  all ;  for  there  was  a  thick 
white  fog  over  everything,  intruding  its  own  exclu- 
sive and  unpropitious  presence. 


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MOUNT  HAMILTON.  433 

When,  however,  the  Saturday  morning  came  with 
brilliant  sky  and  some  well-understood  change  of 
wind,  the  professor  begged  me  to  stay  another  night, 
a  kind  suggestion  which  you  may  quite  understand 
I  was  nothing  loth  to  fall  in  with ;  and  well  were 
we  rewarded.  Nor  do  I  now  regret  the  fact  of  its 
being  a  public  night ;  for  although  there  were  some 
forty  or  fifty  persons  there;  everything  was  conducted 
in  the  quietest  and  most  orderly  manner.  Every- 
body saw,  and  nobody  was  hurried  ;  and  what  we 
all  saw  was  the  Moon  magnified  370  times,  through 
the  thirty-six-inch  object-glass  of  this  refracting 
telescope ;  the  focal  distance  of  the  visual  object- 
glass  being  694  inches,  or  57  feet  10  inches,  and 
the  tube  a  little  shorter  than  the  focus,  as  the  true 
focal  length  is  measured  from  a  point  in  front  of 
the  object-glass,  and  in  line  with  it. 

When  I  say  we  saw  the  Moon  so  magnified,  that 
is  using  the  common  expression.  What  we  really 
saw  was,  of  course,  only  a  small  section  of  it.  For 
thus  is  our  mortal  capacity  hemmed  in  ;  the  larger 
the  magnifying  power  the  larger  the  field  occupied 
by  a  comparatively  small  space.  And  observe  the 
practical  meaning  of  370  times  magnified.  The  full 
Moon  is  held  to  occupy  one-half  of  a  degree  in  the 
heavens  ;  the  whole  arc,  we  know,  contains  180°,  or 
360  halves.  Therefore,  the  whole  full  Moon  magni 
fied  370  times  would,  if  it  could  be  seen  in  its  totality, 
occupy  rather  more  than  the  whole  arc  of  our  heaven ; 
a  tolerably  startling  calculation.  Even  now,  a  little 
mistrusting  myself,  though  without  reason,  I  insert 
a  small  extract  from  the  professor's  letter  to  me  of 

f 


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434  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERrNGS. 

July  24th,  1 891  ; — "You  are  entirely  right  in  your 
calculations  on  the  Moon.  The  Moon  is  about  \  a 
degree  in  angular  diameter,  and  360  moons  would 
just  fill  180°  from  east  to  west,  as  you  say." 

We  had  three  inspections  ;  one  before  the  public 
began,  one  in  turn  with  the  rest,  and  a  third  after 
they  had  gone  ;  the  whole  dome  and  apparatus  and 
especially  the  movable  floor,  being  gradually  and  with 
perfect  ease  adjusted  to  suit  the  planet's  own  move- 
ment. The  cross  lights  were  vivid  ;  Mount  Theo- 
philus  was  the  grand  object ;  his  crater  and  the  cone, 
like  a  double-blossomed  white  flower  at  the  bottom, 
were  so  sharply  and  brightly  discernible  that  you 
almost  asked  where  they  were  when  you  took  your 
eye  away  ;  they  had  seemed  so  real  and  near.  They 
can  measure  these  indeed ;  the  crater  is  18,000 
feet  in  depth,  and  the  interior  cone  is  6000  feet  in 
height ;  and  the  Professor  told  me  that  they  felt 
themselves  able  to  say  that  the  quality  of  the 
Moon's  rocks  closely  resembled  that  of  Table 
Mountain.  Though  I  had  seen  Table  Mountain, 
and  indeed  had  now  seen  the  Moon's  rocks,  I  did 
not  feel  myself  quite  justified  in  offering  any  con- 
firmation of  this  view.  But  is  it  not  wonderful  what 
calculations  can  be  made }  and  in  aid  of  this 
wonder  it  should  be  noted  that,  under  the  best  con- 
ditions, the  Professor  can  bring  the  Moon  to  about 
150  miles'  distance,  from  her  250,000,  or  thereabouts. 

The  mere  inexperienced  eye  has  to  collect  itself, 
or  the  brain  for  it,  before  it  really  knows  what  it  is 
looking  at.  At  first,  all  round  Mount  Theophilus 
looked   like  flat  white  plaster  of  Paris ;  afterwa^rds 


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MOUNT  HAMILTON.  435 

it  became  ribbed,  and  then  flat  again.  The  eye  was 
greatly  astonished,  as  is  always  the  case ;  but  the 
change  of  light  somewhat  affects  the  question.  Cer- 
tain it  is  that  the  eye  must  be  tutored  to  these  sights. 
I  was  speaking  to  the  Professor  of  an  effect  produced 
on  my  vision  at  the  total  eclipse  of  the  sun  which  I 
witnessed  from  the  top  of  the  rock  of  Gibraltar  in 
1870,  when  through  my  glass  I  most  distinctly  saw 
the  moon  approach  the  sun  like  a  great  black  globe ; 
a  globe.  "That,"  said  he,  '^is  a  well-known  and 
explainable  optical  illusion."  So  much  for  the  un- 
educated eye.  But  the  repeated  sight  of  the  Moon 
through  the  Great  Lick  telescope  left  certainty  upon 
the  memory. 

This  establishing  of  observatories  at  great  heights 
appears  to  be  recommendable  on  account  of  the 
"  steadiness  of  the  atmosphere  *'  that  is  thus  secured, 
the  drawback  of  occasional  mountain  fogs  being  con- 
sidered of  small  comparative  importance.  I  know 
not  how  our  own  on  Ben  Nevis  satisfies  our  Pro- 
fessors. The  height  there  is  practically  the  same  as 
at  Mount  Hamilton,  the  former  being  4407  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  the  latter  (as  I  have  stated)  4209.  The 
two  climates  are,  of  course,  wholly  different,  but  of 
Mount  Hamilton,  at  all  events,  it  is  considered  that 
the  position  offers  advantages  superior  to  those  found 
at  any  point  where  a  permanent  observatory  has 
been  established.  And  here  I  cannot  but  recall 
another  high-pitched  observatory  on  the  Pic  du  Midi 
de  Bigorre,  which  I  saw  in  1878.  What  its  exact 
height  was,  or  is,  I  did  not  record,  but  the  mountain 
itself  measures  more  than  9000  feet,  and  to  the  best 

F  f  2 


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43^  U'AXDRR/XnS  A.\D    UONDER/NGS. 

of  my  remembrance  the  building  stood  in  the  top 
regions.  Peculiar  interest  attached  to  it  from  the 
fact  that  it  had  been  made  his  residence  as  well  as 
studio  by  a  retired  French  soldier — General  Nansouty 
—who  conducted  it  and  kept  up  constant  com- 
munications with  the  leading  astronomers  in  Paris, 
devoting  his  life  to  astronomy  in  those  solitudes.  I 
was  so  impressed  at  the  time  by  his  strange  resolution 
that  I  wrote  and  sent  him  a  Sonnet,  which  he  at  once 
acknowledged,  and  as  the  book  in  which  I  published 
It  is  now  out  of  print,  I  will  here  recall  it  in  his 
honour,  and  in  association  with  Mount  Hamilton : — 

Mount,  mount,  and  dare  these  rugged  steeps  on  high, 

Leave  in  the  vale  thy  luxuries  below ! 
Where  is  thy  merit  here,  thou  butterfly, 

That  flutterest  only  in  the  summer's  glow  ? 
But  ye,  whose  hearts  would  aught  of  grandeur  know. 

Turn  to  these  topmost  crags  your  wondering  eye  ; 
Behold  a  dweller  here,  who  winds  and  snow. 

Soldier  of  Science,  bravely  can  defy  ! 
A  white-haired  warrior  ye  shall  see  revealed. 

Who,  working  out  his  theme  alone  in  age, 
And  gathering  glory  in  this  other  field, 

Doth  with  the  changing  heaven  and  air  engage  : 
The  sword  of  Science  in  his  grasp  ye  find. 
Mars  still  at  heart,  Apollo  tunes  his  mind. 

Before  leaving  this  subject,  however,  I  must  men- 
tion another  very  interesting  circumstance.  A  few 
weeks  after  leaving  the  observatory  my  attention  was 
called  to  a  paragraph  in  one  of  the  papers  stating 
that  Professor  Holden  had  discovered  something  like 
snow  in  the  moon.  On  this  I  wrote  him,  and  now 
copy  his  reply  : — 


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MOUNT  HAMILTON.  437 

"  Parts  of  the  moon  look  as  if  snow  were  there, 
and  some  things  can  be,  perhaps,  best  explained  by 
supposing  snow  to  be  there.  I  am  not,  however, 
prepared  to  say  that  snow  is  certainly  present.  It 
may  be — voila  tout** 


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XL. 


When  we  left  the  Observatory  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  1 2th  we  returned  to  San  Jos^,  but  not  yet  to 
San  Francisco,  for  I  had  a  desire  to  see  the  establish- 
ment of  Del  Monte,  at  Monterey ;  therefore,  on  the 
next  day  I  took  the  train,  called  the  Flyer,  thither, 
and  would  recommend  others  to  do  so.  The  hotel  is 
spacious  indeed,  raising  in  my  thoughts  the  some- 
what homely  question,  How  many  square  acres  of 
carpet  are  we  walking  over?  The  grounds  are 
charming  and  extensive.  Trees,  lawns,  and  patterned 
flower-beds  abound,  and  reading  on  seats  under  the 
branches  is  a  popular  pursuit.  By  the  presence  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Talbott,  of  Indiana,  of  the  Alaska 
party,  I  was  induced  to  join  in  the  regulation  drive 
of  "The  Seventeen  Miles."  So  we  all  four  went 
together,  and  greatly  enjoyed  its  variety.  Here  also 
you  may  see  the  first  beginnings  of  Monterey,  and 
reflect  upon  the  power  and  rapidity  of  development. 
We  had  seen  our  present  dwelling,  and  we  now  saw 
the  first  wooden  house,  which,  in  fact,  was  brought 
out  from  England.  Such  things  are  not  seen  with- 
out producing  an  impression  ;  and  where  can  the 
end  possibly  be  fixed  to  change  and  development, 
until  there  be  nothing  left  to  change  or  to  develop  ? 
But  why  do  people  out  here  walk  in  the  hot  full 
sun  with  parasols  of  brilliant  scarlet  ?     Surely  this 


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SAN  FRAm:rsco.  439 

is  not  a  development  of  common  sense,  departing 
from  the  more  sober  and  protecting  colours  of  old  ? 
But  it  aids  the  complexion,  throwing  over  it  the 
bright  vermilion  of  youth,  either  where  it  is  not 
wanted,  or  where  it  is  a  useless  fudge.  The  eye  is 
so  avaricious  nowadays.  Even  to  come  down  to 
the  vulgar  table,  you  will  sacrifice  the  small  delicious 
strawberry  for  the  spongy  pompous  one ;  and  you 
will  fill  your  mouth  with  the  grit  of  that  nasty  stuff, 
crystallized  sugar,  simply  because  it  looks  prettier 
than  the  old  and  much  pleasanter  "  pounded/' 

On  the  17th  we  were  again  at  'Frisco;  and  in 
moving  about  from  friend  to  friend  to  accept  of  their 
hospitality,  I  became  more  impressed  than  ever  with 
the  enormous  consequence  to  San  Francisco  of  the 
cable  car  system  of  the  tramways.  How  could  I 
have  dined  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Dodge  ?  or  have  en- 
joyed his  introduction  of  me  to  Dr.  Harkness  and  the 
Pacific  Union  Club  ?  How  could  we  have  more  than 
once  climbed  and  descended  and  climbed  again,  won- 
dering all  the  while,  to  Gough  Street,  to  accept  the 
•  hospitality  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  MuUins — Mrs.  and  Miss 
Mullins  recalling  Alaska  memories — but  for  the  cable 
cars  ?  Contemplate  the  most  aristocratic  (Americans 
will  forgive  that  insidiously  creeping  word)  parts  of 
the  fast-extending  city,  and  ask  yourself,  How  came 
these  dwellings  here,  but  for  the  cable  cars  ?  And 
here  I  must  call  to  mind  a  day  we  spent  with  Mr, 
Adolph  Sutro  on  his  vast  property, "  Sutro  Heights,^' 
away  on  the  hills.  On  our  return  in  his  carriage  he 
stopped  it  in  the  middle  of  a  wood,  in  order  to  say  : 
"  This  is  to  be  the  centre  of  the  city."     It  sounded 


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440  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

strangei  but  I  recalled  the  cable  cars,  and  shrank 
from  the  responsibility  of  disbelief. 

On  the  other  side  of  San  Francisco  the  roads  are 
less  adventurous,  and  the  suburbs  (so  to  call  them) 
cheerful  and  happy-looking.  Mr.  Siegfried,  a  well- 
known  and  established  merchant  in  'Frisco,  whose 
acquaintance  I  had  made  in  the  East,  among  other 
acts  of  hospitality,  invited  me  to  spend  the  day  with 
him  and  wife  and  family  at  his  house  at  Alameda. 
A  prettier  place  for  a  quiet  retreat  from  the  irritations 
of  business  could  not  be  well  conceived  than  Alameda. 
It  is  called,  indeed,  "  The  City  of  Small  Homes  ;  '^ 
and  that  exactly  represents  its  commodious  but  un- 
pretending villas,  with  their  square  lawns  and  gardens, 
and  front  lawns  trimmed  in  front  down  to  the  edge 
of  the  road.  All  suggests,  as  it  were,  a  picture  of 
pretty  domesticity,  as  the  name  implies ;  but  Mr. 
Siegfried  has  somewhat  transgressed  these  bounds  by 
the  possession  of  a  costly  and  surprising  collection  of 
rare  orchids. 

Then  there  is  another  twin  spot,  San  Anselmo. 
Here  also  the  American  knows  how  to  repose  ;  and 
in  particular,  the  district  claims  a  position  in  the 
astonishing  fruit  production  of  California.  Mr.  Foss, 
whom  I  had  met  in  the  States  in  1886,  found  me  out 
at  'Frisco  and  entertained  me  at  his  newly-purchased 
fruit-garden,  where  produce  seems  inclined  to  crowd 
upon  him.  Certainly  in  these  parts  you  find  fruit 
abounding ;  but  as  a  consequence  there  is  much 
carelessness  about  it,  and  carriage  of  it  to  distances 
being  an  object,  much  is  gathered  before  it  is  ripe, 
by  which  the  tables  of  the  city  suffer. 


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SHOSHONE   FALLS.  44 1 

My  face  was  now  set  westward  towards  England, 
and  the  question  arose,  should  I  repeat  my  visit  to 
the  mighty  ranges  of  the  Canadian  Pacific,  or  make 
a  diversion  to  see  the  Shoshone  Falls  on  the  Snake 
River,  and  so  pass  through  Salt  Lake  City  and 
Manitou  again  ?  Curiosity  as  to  the  Falls  prevailed. 
This  made  the  round  by  Portland  necessary,  and 
we  therefore  left  by  the  9  p.m.  train  of  the 
31st  of  July.  Mount  Shasta  is  one  great  feature 
here,  and  we  enjoyed  a  full  view  of  him ;  but  as  a 
snow  and  glacier  mountain  I  was  not  greatly  im- 
pressed with  him.  Stilly  as  so  many  know,  there  is 
striking  scenery  on  this  line.  Witness  that  from 
Gazelle  station,  and  the  vast  stretches  and  complicated 
varieties  of  what  is  called  the  Siskiyou  Valley. 
Portland  showed  us  Mount  Hood  looking  very  fine ; 
and  the  3rd  of  August  took  us  up  the  banks  of  the 
Columbia  River  by  train.  I  have  already  written 
that  this  is  the  proper  way  to  see  the  river ;  but  I 
will  now  add  that  it  is  best  to  come  the  way  I  came 
in  1886,  down  stream. 

From  the  point  of  leaving  the  Columbia,  near 
Walla  Walla,  we  entered  a  dreary,  and  sandy,  and 
sage-bush  country  till  we  came  after  the  night's 
journey  to  the  Shoshone  station.  We  were  then 
twenty-six  miles  from  the  Falls,  and  on  the  4th  took 
the  usual  carriage,  to  sleep  upon  the  spot  and  return 
next  day.  Anything  so  dreary  and  therefore  ap- 
parently endless  as  this  drive  I  have  never  met  with. 
Sage-bush  country  without  intermission.  Where  is 
the  river  ?  where  are  the  Falls  ?  and  when  are  we  to 
get  there  ?     But  time    and    distance   were   as  they 


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442  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

always  were,  and  not  subject  to  the  measurement  of 
content  or  discontent  Our  driver  did  very  fairly, 
and  at  last  at  a  sudden  turn  and  rapid  descent  through 
a  most  remarkable  congeries  of  black  precipitous 
precipices,  we  came  upon  the  river  and  crossed  it, 
after  waiting  and  signing,  to  the  Government  Hotel. 
There  they  did  the  best  for  us.  It  is  placed  at 
the  brow  of  the  Falls,  of  which  you  obtain  that  class 
of  view  on  the  evening  of  arrival. 

On  the  next  morning  you  go  with  the  guide  down 
a  very  steep  and  trying  path  to  the  bed  of  the  river 
below,  and  obtain  your  full  view.  The  depth  of  the 
Falls  is  2 ID  feet;  the  shape  is  horseshoe,  and  thus 
measured  in  the  arc  give  700  feet ;  in  straight  line  600. 
There  are  these  black  precipices  all  round,  and  the 
general  view  is  truly  strange.  The  flow  of  water  was 
good ;  and  the  water  quite  white  and  clear.  Had 
it  been  at  its  full  it  would  have  lost  this  feature 
and  been  yellow.  Were  it  not  for  Niagara,  these 
Falls  would  probably  be  the  finest  in  America  ;  but 
the  comparison  must  not  be  made,  because  the  tre- 
mendous force  and  volume  of  Niagara  is  unapproach- 
able, and  therefore  unapproached.  Nevertheless,  the 
whole  scene  is  entirely  different,  and  entirely  original 
in  its  special  features. 

On  our  return  we  were  persuaded  to  diverge  through 
the  Blue  Lakes,  stopping  at  a  fruit  farmer's  for  lunch  ; 
but  we  did  not  think  this  worth  while,  and  resigned 
ourselves  to  the  return  sage-bush  drive.  Of  this  same 
country  they  say,  as  they  say  in  Peru,  that  with  rain 
it  would  burst  into  great  fertility.  I  quite  believe 
this  of  Peru,  and  have  already  written  how  I  saw 


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SALT  LAKE   CITY.  443 

sudden  flowers  rise  and  perish  under  a  dash  of 
moisture. 

The  rise  of  the  Andes,  a  late  mountain  develop- 
ment, according  to  geologists,  seems  to  have  stopped 
the  rains  from  Peru,  the  whole  undulating  surface 
of  which,  running  up  to  Arequipa  from  Mollendo, 
looks  exactly  like  that  of  a  rain-washed  country.  But 
these  sage- bush  wastes  are  comparatively  flat,  and  it 
seems  to  be  a  forlorn  hope  that  their  latent  fertility 
should  be  awakened  by  the  rain.  Ugly  country  still 
continued  to  Salt  Lake  City,  to  which  we  travelled 
through  the  night,  and  arrived  at  noon  on  the  6th. 

What  a  change  here  since  1886!  There  are  now 
two  cities ;  the  old  one,  with  its  separate  dwellings 
and  gardens  and  the  water  running  down  the  sides 
of  the  streets,  and  the  new  one,  very  much  like  other 
new  cities  in  the  States.  I  had  been  introduced  by 
Mr.  Siegfried  in  'Frisco  to  Mr.  Sears,  a  polygamist, 
and  a  leading  member  of  the  Mormon  Church,  who 
had  kindly  bespoken  my  beds  at  the  huge  "  Knuts- 
ford  "  in  the  new  town,  where  we  fared  very  comfort- 
ably ;  and  he  again  introducing  me  to  Mr.  Grant  and 
Mr.  Cannon,  both  apostles  of  the  Church,  and  both 
polygamists,  we  all  five  took  a  drive  of  inspection  with 
Mr.  Grant  in  his  carriage.  We  visited  the  tabernacle 
and  heard  the  pin  dropped,  but  I  fancy  you  must  be 
on  one  particular  spot  to  hear  that  minute  sound 
through  all  the  length  of  the  building.  We  also  visited 
the  yet  unfinished  temple.  Then  there  was  Brigham 
Young's  unpretending  grave  in  the  corner  of  a  grass 
plat.  It  was  a  very  pleasant  drive,  and  we  had 
abundant  conversation,  with  arrangements  for  attend- 


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444  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS, 

ing  the  service  on  Sunday.  The  full  title  of  the 
church  is  '*  The  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  the  Latter 
Day  Saints  and  Polygamy."  I  am  not  quite  sure 
that  this  word  polygamy  (a  perfectly  genuine  Eastern 
institution)  is  now  always  added,  because,  in  conces- 
sion to  the  law  of  the  land,  polygamy  is  being 
gradually  abandoned,  though  the  High  Church  Party 
there  rather  appear  to  deem  this  step  as  somewhat 
partaking  of  a  dereliction  of  principle. 

On  the  Sunday  we  attended  the  service,  when  the 
whole  building  was  closely  crowded  with  a  very 
attentive  audience.  Mr.  Sears  came  with  us  ;  there 
was  a  special  choir  for  the  organ,  and  in  the  hymns 
all  joined.  Mr.  Grant  preached,  as  also  two  other 
leaders.  On  entering  I  had  observed  a  number  of 
high-standing  silver  flagons,  and  a  vast  number  of 
chalices  containing  cut  bread.  These  were  the  ele- 
ments of  the  Communion.  All  cannot,  of  course,  be 
communicants  every  Sunday,  but  a  vast  number  were 
so  on  this  day ;  and  the  elements  were  carried  round 
by  several,  and  partaken  of  by  each  in  his  place. 
But  there  was  no  wine ;  these  silver  reservoirs,  continu- 
ally appealed  to,  contained  the  pure  water  of  the  city, 
which  is  excellent.  The  two  elements  were  bread 
and  water,  in  which  you  are  not  bound  (though  pos- 
sibly somewhat  prone)  to  perceive  some  small  protest 
against  the  form  of  the  original  institution. 

We  of  course  made  a  day  to  the  Dead-Sea-looking 
Salt  Lake,  surrounded  by  its  dry  mountains.  But 
the  population  do  not  leave  it  dead.  It  is  alive 
with  holiday-makers,  rowing,  swimming,  eating  and 
drinking,    and   enjoying  the  hot  air,  like  other   or- 


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MANATOU.  445 

ganized  existences.  Continual  trains  run  to  and  fro, 
and  many  are  the  passengers.  Here,  also,  in  the 
new  town  I  was  surprised  to  see  electrical  tramcars, 
as  I  had  seen  them  in  other  places ;  I  believe  at 
both  San  Jos^  and  Monterey,  and  certainly  in  later- 
visited  towns. 

On  the  loth  we  left  by  the  Rio  Grande  and 
Denver  Line  for  Manatou,  in  which  beautiful  spot  I 
wasted  a  day  or  two,  and  drank  the  waters  ;  Jack 
having  set  his  full  heart  on  riding  up  Pike's  Peak  on 
horseback.  But,  behold,  since  I  so  toiled  up  in  1886, 
there  is  a  railway  to  the  very  top.  I  paid  another 
visit  also  to  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  of  the  old  Ute 
Tribe,  insisting  this  time  that  I  should  enter  by  the 
grand  vestibule  or  chief  entrance,  with  Pyke's  Peak 
full  in  front,  instead  of  coming  out  that  way.  All, 
however,  seemed  accustomed  to  enter  by  what  I  call 
the  back  door,  and  to  come  out  by  the  front. 

Then  we  came  on  to  my  old  acquaintance,  Chicago, 
"The  City  of  Lakes,"  where  I  sought  the  Grand 
Pacific  Hotel,  and  where,  in  virtue  of  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Hutchinson  to  Mr.  Morse,  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
visiting  him  and  Mrs.  Mprse  at  their  hospitable  home. 
And  here  he  took  us  one  (among  others)  most  inter- 
esting drive,  viz.  to  the  Jackson  Park,  the  seat  of 
the  coming  World's  Fair.  Under  his  guidance  and 
protection  he  drove  us  into  the  territory  set  apart 
for  this  gigantic  Exhibition,  where  we  wandered 
about  the  one  square  mile  allotted  for  its  occupa- 
tion, wondering  and  again  wondering  how  out  of 
such  a  mighty  chaos  beauty  and  order  could  be  pro- 
ducible.    They  who  see  it  in  perfection   will   never 


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44^  WANDERINGS  AND    WONDERINGS. 

see  what  we  saw.     Whether  I  shall  go  to  see  what 
they  will  see,  is  very  doubtful. 

Well  indeed  is  Chicago  called  the  City  of  Lakes, 
and  well  has  she  availed  herself  of  the  position  which 
coniers  on  her  that  title.  What  a  gift  of  water ; 
and  what  advantage  taken  of  it!  She  probes  the 
very  fathoms  of  the  inexhaustible  resources.  Go  and 
wonder  at  the  waterworks. 

From  Chicago  to  Niagara  was  inevitable,  where 
that  stupendous  outpouring  from  the  grand  four 
freshwater  lakes  of  the  world,  Superior,  Michigan, 
Huron,  and  Erie,  moans  over  the  rocks  towards  Lake 
Ontario.  The  whole  scene  with  the  park  has  been  con- 
siderably improved,  but  the  Fall  itself,  though  mighty, 
was  not  quite  so  voluminous  as  I  had  seen  it  in  1886. 
Very  much  depends  upon  the  wind  ;  the  water  is 
always  there,  but  the  Falls  had  been  low  all  through 
the  season ;  full  enough,  however,  to  carry  one 
unfortunate  man  down  in  his  boat  while  we  were  there. 
He  was  well  known,  and  had  been  often  cautioned, 
being  much  devoted  to  the  opposing  liquor,  for  which 
the  water  thus  at  last  avenged  itself. 

From  Niagara  the  next  step  was  to  Albany,  with 
its  enormous  new  capitol,  and  the  Kenmure  Hotel, 
not  the  DelavAn  House ;  and  from  Albany  down 
the  riverside,  as  of  yore,  to  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel, 
as  of  yore,  New  York.  And  really  here  the  main 
question  plainly  was,  after  paying  a  visit  to  our  good 
agent,  Mr.  McKeevan,  of  our  London  and  Brazilian 
Bank,  What  is  the  next  steamer  to  Liverpool  ?  This 
was  the  White  Star  Line  steamer,  the  Majestic;  and  a 


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CONCLUSION.  447 

majestic  passage  we  made  of  it,  considering  all  things, 
though  not  of  the  very  first  rapidity,  Liverpool  and 
London  now  read  almost  the  same;  and  on  the  i6th 
of  September,  1891, 1  once  more  found  myself,  with  a 
vastly  increased  gallery  of  mental  pictures,  in  the  same 
room  and  at  the  same  table  which  I  had  left,  then  three 
years  ago,  and  where  I  am  now  writing  these  last  lines. 
Shall  I  publish  them  ?  "  We  shall  not  be  able  to 
read  them  unless  you  do,"  you  will  say,  "and  to  us 
you  have  promised  their  contents."  "Then  I  am 
bound  to  do  so."  *'  Is  there,  then,  any  indisposition, 
implied  by  that  last  word  ?  Should  it  not  be  a 
pleasure  thus  to  record  three  years  of  your  life  well 
spent  and  in  fulfilment  of  a  promise  made  to  friends  ? 
What  do  you  fear— criticism  ?"  "  No ! "  "  What,  then .?" 
"  I  will  tell  you.  I  fear  the  Thrasher,  though  I  am  not 
a  Whale.  I  fear  *  Thurkill's  little  account.'  I  fear  the 
Publisher's  bill.  If  either  of  you  has  ever  published, 
you  will  know  what  these  things  always  are.  Did 
ever  any  other  debtor  side  of  an  account,  in  the  shape 
of  charges,  allowances,  and  deductions,  exhibit  such 
peculiar  ingenuity  ?  Trade  feeds  on  brain.  The 
only  comparison  that  occurs  to  me  to  make  is  one 
with  the  barber  surgeons  in  Naples.  There  the 
barbers  bleed.  Spirit  of  Dr.  Dickson,  hear !  Hands, 
feet,  and  limbs  are  painted  over  their  doors,  and  at 
every  possible  small  point,  especially  between  toes 
and  fingers,  "  the  life  thereof"  is  shown  to  be  spurting 
forth  in  sign  of  their  ingenuity  in  bleeding.  And 
such  as  are  the  Neapolitan  bleeders,  such  are  the 
Publishers  ! "     Que  voulez  vous  ?    Ilfautpayerl 


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448  WANDRR/yGS   AND    WOiVDERfNGS. 

These  pages,  then,  I  dedicate  to  you, 
Feigning  to  deem  their  merits  small  and  few  : 
But  claiming  that,  at  all  events,  they're  true  : 

They're  true. 

My  portrait  you've  requested  me  to  show, 
Before  I  older— or  no  older — grow  ; 
I'm  old  enough  already,  as  you  know  : 

As  you  know. 

My  three  years'  travel  o'er,  I'm  here  again. 
Have  all  retravelled  o'er  with  pen  and  brain, 
And,  for  the  present,  shall  at  home  remain  : 

At  home  remain. 

Adding  merely, 
Yours  sincerely, 

J.  J.   AUBERTIN. 


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160 


;\*- 


-^-i 


160 


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CLASSIFIED    LIST 


OF 


THE  PUBLICATIONS  OF 

Kegan  Paul,  Trench,  Trubner, 

and  Co,  Limited 


LONDON 

KEGAN  PAUL,  TRENCH,  TRUBNER  &  CO.,  LTD. 

Paternoster  House,  Charing  Cross  Road 

1892 


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CONTENTS 


PAGE 


Works  on  Orikntal  Subjects:— 

Relating  to  India,  etc.  .... 

On  Oriental  Buddhism  .... 

Relating  to  China      ..... 
Relating  to  Islam      .  .  •  .  , 

Persian  Religion  and  Literature 
Relating  to  Japan      .  .  .  •  • 

Jewish  History  and  Religion 
Archaeology  of  Egypt  and  Assyria     . 

Works  on  Comparative  Philology,  The  Science  of  Lan 
GUAGE,  Grammars,  Lexicons,  Etc.    . 

Works  on  Theology,  Bibucal  Exegesis,  and  Devotional 
Subjects,  ...... 

Works  on  Speculative  Theology,   Philosophy,  and  Com 
PARATivE  Religion      ..... 

Mythology  and  Folk-Lorb         .... 

Works  relating  to  the  Occult  Sciences,  Animal  Magnet- 
ism,  Spiritism,  and  Theosophy 

Numismatics.  ...... 

General  and  European  History 

Travels,  Voyages,  and  Guide-Books 

BiCkSRAPHY      ....... 

Works  on  Education        ..... 

Greek  and  Latin  Classics,  Etc. 


5 

9 
II 

12 
IZ 

13 
13 

13 

M 


29 

33 

35 
37 
38 
40 

42 
47 
48 


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Contents. 


Works  on  Military  Scibncr       .... 

Botany  and  Natural  History    .... 

Anthropology        ...... 

Physiology  and  Medicine  .... 

Mental  ai^d  Moral  Science        .... 

Law,  Politics,  and  Sociology     .... 

Works  on  the  Physical  Sciences,  Mineraixmsy,  Geology, 
Etc.  ....... 

Technology  ....... 

Art  and  Music       ...... 

Poetry  and  Belles-Lettres        .... 

Novels  and  Works  of  Fiction    .... 

BlBLIOGRAI'HY  ...... 

Gastronomy  and  Diet,  Chess  Manuals,  and  Miscellaneous 
Works    ....... 

Periodicals  ....... 


PAOK 
48 


50 
5a 

53 

54 
55 

58 
61 

63 
64 
71 

75 

76 
80 


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Patbrnostbk  House, 

Charing  Cross  Road. 
June  20,  1892. 


Kegan  Paul,  Trencb,  Mbner,  &  Go/s 

PUBLICATIONS. 


NoTB.— The  letters  I.  S.  S.  denote  that  the  Work  forms  a  Volume  of 
the  International  Scientific  Series. 


WORKS  ON  ORIENTAL  SUBJECTS, 

EMBRACING 

The  Religions^  Literature^  Philosophy^  History^  Geography^ 
and  Archceology  of  India^  China^  Japan^  Persia,  Arabia, 
arid  Palestine. 

WORKS   RELATING  TO   INDIA,    Etc. 

Albenmi's  India :  An  Account  of  the  Religion,  Philosophy, 
literature,  Geography,  Chronology,  Astronomy,  Customs,  Laws,  and 
Astrol(^  of  India,  about  A.D.  1030.  Arabic  Text,  edited  by 
Professor  E.  Sachau.    i^o,  £$,  3j. 

History  of  India,  as  told  by  its  own  Historians :  the  Mu- 
hammadan  Period.  From  the  Posthumous  Papers  of  the  late  Sir 
H.  M.  Elliot.  Revised  and  continued  by  Professor  John  Dowson. 
8  wis.  Sv0,  £Sy  8j. 

History,  Folk-Lore,  and  Distribntion  of  the  Races  of  the 
North-Western  Provinces  of  India.  By  Sir  H.  M.  Elliot,  edrted 
by  J.  Beames.     With  Four  Coloured  Maps.     2  vols.  %vo,  £1,  i6s. 

Hindn  Mythology  and  History,  Geography,  and  Literature, 
Classical  Dictionary  ot    By  John  Dowson.    Post  Svo,  i6s, 

[Trillm«r'B  Oriental  Sorles. 

History  of  India  from  the  Earliest  Ages.  By  J.  Talboys 
Wheeler.  Svo.  Vol.  I.  containing  the  Vedic  Period  and  the 
Mahi  BhiLrata,  with  Map.  Vol.  IL  The  Ramayana  and  the 
Brahmanic  Period,  with  two  Maps,  21s.  VoL  III.  Hindu,  Buddhist, 
and  Brahmanical  Revival,  with  two  Map,  i&.  VoL  IV.  Part  I. 
Mussulman  Rule,  14s.  VoL  IV.  Part  II.  Completing  the  History 
of  India  down  to  the  time  of  the  Moghul  Empire,  12s, 
*«*  VoL  IIL  is  also  published  as  an  independent  work  under  the  title 

oi  *  History  of  India  s  Hindu,  Buddhist,  and  Brahmanical.' 


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6  Kegan  Paul,  Trench,  Triibner,  and  Ca's 

Original  Saaakrit  Texts,  on  the  Origin  and  History  of  the 
People  of  India.  By  John  Muir.  Vols.  I.,  11. ,  IV.,  and  V.,  21  j. 
each;  Vol.  III.  i6s.    Second Editi4tn,     Svols.  8tv. 

Casta. —Kythioal  aad  Lagendaxy  aDOOunts  of  the  Origla  of  CbiU. 

By  John  Muir.     TAird  Edition,    £1,  u, 
*«*  This  work  is  also  issued  as  a  volume  of  Trubnor's  Qrlaatal  Borles, 

at  the  same  price. 

TraiiB-Hlmalayaii  Origin  of  tlio  Hindus.    By  John  Muir.    Stcond^ 
Edition.     £1,  is. 

TheVedas.    By  John  Muir.    Second  Edition.    16s; 

Cosmogony,  Uythology,  etc.,  of  the  Indiuis  in  tlie  Vedlc  ago.    By 
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Principal  Indian  Deities.    By  John  Muir.    Second  Edition^    £1^  is. 

Sacred  Hymns  of  the  Brahmins,  as  preserved  in  the  Oldest 
Collection  of  Religious  Poetry,  the  Rig-Veda-Sanhita.  By  F.  Max 
MuLLER.  VoL  I.  Hymns  to  the  Maruts,  or  the  Storm  Gods.  Svo, 
I2s.  6d. 

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from  the  Sanskrit  By  H.  H.  Wilson.  Edited  by  £.  B.  Cowbll  and 
W.  F.  Webster.  6  twls.  %vo,  £t^  fs.  Only  a  few  sets  arc  still 
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from  other  PurilnS.  By  H.  H.  Wilson.  Edited  by  FitzEdwau) 
Hall.    6  vols.    £3,  4s.  6d. 

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F.  Johnson.     TAird  Edition,    4^,  los,  6d. 

Hindn  Religion. — Essays  and  Lectnres,  chiefly  on  the 
Religion  of  the  Hindus.  By  H.  H.  Wilson.  Collected  and 
edited  by  Dr.  Rsinhold  Rost.    2  vols.    21s, 

Ordinances  of  Mann.  Translated  from  the  Sanskrit  By 
£.  W.  Hopkins,  with  an  Introduction  by  the  late  A.  C  Burnbll. 
Post  Svo,  12s.  [TrtUmer's  Oriental  Series. 

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6s.  [Trfamar'B  Oriental  Series. 

Religions  of  India.  By  A.  Barth.  Translated  by  J.  Wood. 
Second  Edition,    Post  Svo,  i6s.  [Ttillnier's  Oriental  Series. 

Oriental  Beligions  and  their  Relation  to  Universal  Religion. 
India.    By  Samubl  Johnson.    2  vols.    21s. 

[Fbtlosopliical  Lihrary. 

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of  A  Wbbbr  by  J.  Mann  and  T.  ZachariwB.  Second  Edition. 
Post  &V0,  los.  6d.  [Triibner's  Oriental  Series. 

Nepal  and  Tibet,  Essays  on  the  Langnages,  Literature,  and 

Religion  of.    By  B.  H.  Hodgson.    Royal  Zvo^  14^. 

Birth  of  the  War  God :  A  Poem  from  the  Sanskrit  of  Kali- 
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[Trilbner's  Oriental  Series. 

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Sanskrit  of  Sri-Harsha-Dbva,  by  P.  Boyd.     Crown  S^o,  4s.  6d. 

Metrical  Translations  i^om  Sanskrit  Writers.  By  John 
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rit of  the.     By  E.  B.  Cowell.     Croit/n  8w,  3J.  6d. 

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Hindas,  from  the  original  Sanskrit,  by  H.  H.  Wilson.  TAird 
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Imperial  Gazetteer  of  India.     By  Sir  W.  W.  Hunter.     Mw 

Edition^  with  Maps,  1886-1887.     14  vols,  half-morocco,  £s,  Zs. 

Ancient  (Geography  of  India.  By  Major>General  Alexander 
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Satakas  of  Bhartrihari.  Translated  from  the  Sanskrit  by  B. 
H.  WoRTHAM.    Post  Svo,  5J.  [Traimer'8  Oriental  SertaB. 

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Ralston.    Post  Svo,  14s.  [Trabnar'a  Oriental  Seilas.  . 

Parsis. — Essays  on  the   Sacred  Language,  Writings,  and 

Religion  of  the  Parsis.     By  M.  Haug.    Third  Edition.   Edited  and 
enlarged  by  E.  W.  West.     Post  Svo,  i6s. 

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Tenasserim,  and  Arakan,  from  the  Earliest  Time  to  the  end  of  the 
first  war  with  British  India.  By  General  Sir  A.  Phavre.  Post  Svo, 
14s.  [Trabner'e  Oriental  Series. 

Bnrxna:  As  it  Was,  as  it  Is,  and  as  it  Will  be.  By  James 
George  Scott.    Chea^  Edition.     Crown  ^0,  2s.  6d 

British  India,  Early  Becords  oil  A  History  of  the  English 
Settlement  in  India,  as  told  in  the  Government  Records  and  other 
Contemporaiy  Documents.  By  J.  Talboys  Wheeler.  Royal  Sew, 
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India  Fast  and  Present:  Historical,  Social,  and  Political. 
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India  Bevisited.  By  Sir  Edwin  Arnold.  With  Thirty-two 
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En^Jlsh  Bnle  and  Kative  Opinion  in  India.     By  James 

ROUTLBDGB.     8w,  lOf.  td. 

Bajas  of  the  Ponjab :  History  of  the  Principal  States  in  the 
Punjab,  and  their  Political  Relations  with  the  British  Government. 
By  Su:  Lbfel  Griffin.    Royal  Svo,  21s. 

Modem  India  and  the  Indians:  A  Series  of  Impressions, 
Notes,  and  Essays.  By  Sir  M.  Monier- Williams.  FtftA  EdUum, 
Post  $uo,  14J.  [MItmer's  Oriental  Beitos. 

India.    By  Sir  John  Strachey.    With  Map.    8w,  i^s. 

New  India ;  or,  India  in  Transition.  By  H.  J.  S.  Cotton. 
Third  Edition*     Crown  Stv,  4/.  6d, ;  Cheap  Edition^  paper  covers y  is. 

Essays  relating  to  Indian  Snldects.  By  B.  H.  Hodgson. 
2  vols.    Post  Bvo,  2Ss.  [Tr1Uui«r'B  Qrtontal  SerlM. 

Mediaval  EesearcheB  from  Eastem  Asiatic  Sources:  Frag- 
ments towards  the  Knowledge  of  the  Geography  and  History  of 
Central  and  Western  Asia  from  the  Thirteenth  to  the  Seventeenth 
Century.  By  E.  BR£TSCHNBIDSR.  With  Two  Maps.  2  vols, 
post  $vo,  2is.  [Ttaiiii«r*8  Oitontal  Series. 

Languages  of  India.  See  Works  on  Comparative  Philology, 
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rymfle's  Oriental  Repertory,  Asiatick  Researches,  and  the  Journal 
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WORKS  ON   ORIENTAL   BUDDHISM. 

Buddhist  Oatechism;  or,  Outline  of  the  Doctrine  of  the 
Buddha  Gotama.    By  Subhadra  Bhikshu.     i2mo,  2s. 

Ohinese  Buddhism,  Handbook  for  the  Student  of.  By  £.  J. 
EiTEL.    Second  Edition,     Crtwn  ^vo,  iSs, 

Buddhism  in  Tibet  By  Emil  Schlagintweit.  Illustrated 
hy  Literary  Documents  and  Objects  of  Religious  Worship.  With 
Twenty  Plates.     2  vols,  royal  $vo  and/olio,  £2,  2s, 

Chinese  Buddhism:  Sketches  Historical  and  Critical.  By 
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Buddhist  Scriptures,  Oatena  0^  from  the  Chinese.  By  S. 
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Si-Tu-Ki :  Buddhist  Records  of  the  Western  World.  Trans- 
lated from  the  Chinese  of  Hiubn  Tsiang  (a.d.  629)  by  S.  Bbai. 
With  Maps.    2  vo^,  post  Svo,  24s.  [Trtttaer's  Oriental  Series. 

Hiuen-Tsiang,  Life  of.  By  the  Shamans  Hwui  Li  and 
Yen-Tsung,  with  an  Account  of  the  Works  of  I-Tsing.  By  S. 
Bbal.    Post  S«v,  los.  [Triltaer'B  Oriental  Series. 

Dhamxnapada. — Texts  from  the  Buddhist  Canon,  commonly 
known  as  Dhammapada.  Translated  from  the  Chinese  by  S.  Bbal. 
Post  8zv,  7^.  6d,  [MLUner'B  Oriental  Seriee. 

Udanavarga:  A  Collection  of  Verses  from  the  Buddhist 
Canon,  compiled  by  DharmatrAta,  and  translated  from  the 
Tibetan,  by  W.  W.  Rockhill.    Post  ^vo,  gs* 

[Trabner'B  Oriental  Seriee. 

Buddhism  in  Christendom ;  or,  Jesus  the  Essene.  By  Arthur 

Lillib.     With  Illustrations.     Svo,  15^. 

The  Dathavansa:  or,  The  History  of  the  Tooth-Relic  of 
Gotama  Buddha.  Pali  Text  with  translation  by  Sir  MuTU  Coomara 
SwAMY.     Svo,  los,  6d.     English  Translation  only,  6s, 

Sutta  Nipata;    or.  Dialogues  and  Discourses  of  Gotama 
•       Buddha.      Translated  from  the  Original  Pali  by  Sir  M.  Coomara 
SwAMY.    jCromn  Sw,  6s, 

The  Jataka,  together  with  its  Commentary,  being  Tales  of 
the  Anterior  Birth  of  Gotama,  now  first  published  in  Pali.  By  V. 
Fausboll.    5  vois,  Zvoy  28^.  each,      ^ 

Buddhist  Birth-Stories;  or,  Jataka  Tales,  the  Oldest  Col- 
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lated from  the  Pali  Text  of  V.  Fausboll,  by  T.  W.  Rhys-Davids. 
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Seportfl  of  the  Amaravati  and  Jaggayyapeta   Buddhist 

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Beligion  in  China.    Containing  a  Brief  Account  of  the  Three 

Religions  of  the  Chinese.      By  J.  Edkins,  D.D.      Third  Ediium, 

Post  Svo,  7s.  6d,  [Tlillnier'8  Oriental  Series. 

*,*  This  Work  is  also  issued  as  a  Volume  of  the  Philosopkical  Library, 

Chinese  Bmddhism;  Sketches  Historical  and  Critical.  By 
J.  Edkins,  D.D.    Post  Svo,  iSs.  [Ttfttmer's  onentel  Series. 

Chinese  Researches,  Chinese  Chronology  and  Cycles.  By 
T.  Fergusson.     Crown  Svo,  los.  6d, 

Chinese  Language  and  Literature.  By  Professor  R.  K. 
Douglas.    Crown  Svo,  Ss. 

Jenghia  Khan,  Life  o£ '  Translated  from  the  Chinese  by 
Professor  R.  K.  Douglas.     Crown  Svo,  5^. 

ConAxcias,  the  Great  Teacher.  By  Major-General  G.  G. 
Alexander.     Crown  Svo,  6s, 

Mencins. — ^The  Mind  of  Menciusj  or,  Political  Economy 
founded  upon  Moral  Philosophy.  A  Systematic  Digest  of  the 
Doctrines  of  the  Chinese  Philosopher  Mencius.  Translated  from  the 
German  of  Fabbr,  with  additional  Notes,  by  A.  B.  Huix:hinson. 
Post  Svo,  los,  6d,  [Ttttbaer'B  Oriental  Series. 

Chinese  Classics.  Translated  into  English  by  James  Legge. 
Popular  Edition,  Crown  8ev.  Vol.  I.  Life  and  Teachings  of 
Confudus.  Sixth  Edition,  los,  6d,  Vol.  II.  Works  of  Mencius, 
12s,     Vol.  III.  She-King,  or  Book  of  Poetry,  I2x, 

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Post  Svo,  Js,  6d, 

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Tsnni-iKloam,  the  Supreme  Being  of  the  Khoi-Khoi.  By  T. 
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TentatlTe  Ohronological  Synopds  of  the  History  of  Arabia 

and  its  Neighbours,  from  B.c  500,000  (?)  to  A.D.  679.  By  J.  W. 
Rbdhousb.    ^vo,  paper,  u. 

History,  System,  and  Varieties  of  Turkish  Poetry,  illus- 
trated by  Specimens  in  the  Original  English  Paraphrase.  By  J.  W. 
Redhousb.    Svo,  2s.  6d, 

The  Mesnevi  (usually  known  as  the  Mesneviyi  Shenf,  or 
Holy  Mesneyi)  of  Mevlana  (Our  Lord),  Jelalu'd-Din  Muhammed 
Er-RumL  Illustrated  by  a  Selection  of  Characteristic  Anecdotes. 
Translated  by  J.  W.  Rbdhousb.    Post  Svo,  £1,  is, 

[TMOmn'M  OrlMitel  SerlM. 

Selections  from  the  Koran.    By  £.  W.  Lane.    Mw  Edition^ 

with  Introduction  by  Stanley  Lame  Poole.    Post  8zw,  9;. 

[Tjr&bner's  Oriental  Series. 

Oompre])ensiTe   Oommentary   to   the   Quran.     By  £.   M. 

Wherry.  With  Sale's  Preliminary  Discourse,  and  Additional 
Notes.  Post%vo.  Vols.  I.  IL  and  IIL,  I2J.  6i£  €a£h.  Vol.  IV., 
lOf.  6dl  [TriUmer'e  Oriental  Seilee. 

Book  of  Kalilah  and  Dimnah.  Translated  from  Arabic  into 
Syriac,  with  Preface  and  Glossary  in  English,  by  W.  Wright.   %vo,  2  is. 

Islam;  or,  True  Christianity.  By  Ernest  de  Bunsen. 
Crown  8tv,  5^. 

The  Fntore  of  Islam.     By  W.  S.  Blunt.     Crown  Svo,  6s, 

Languages  of  Islam,  etc  See  Works  on  Comparative 
Philology,  The  Science  of  Language,  etc 

PERSIAN   LITERATURE,    Etc. 

The  Gnlistan;  or,  Rose  Garden  of  Shekh  Mushliu'd-Din 
Sadi  of  Shiraz.  Translated  from  the  Atish  Kadah,  by  E.  B.  East- 
wick.    Second  Edition,    Post  8tv,  los,  6d, 

[Traimer*B  Oriental  Series. 

The  Vazir  of  Lanknran ;  A  Persian  Play,  with  a  Grammatical 
Introduction,  Translation,  Notes,  and  Vocabulary,  by  W.  H.  Hag- 
gard and  G.  Lb  Strange.    Cronm  Stv,  los,  6d, 

Oriental  Beligions  and  fheir  Relation  to  UniTCrsal  Be- 

Ugion.    By  Samvil  Johnson.    Persia.    Ssv,  iZt. 


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TAnif  and  Znlalka ;  A  Poem  by  Jami.  Translated  from  the 
Peniftn  into  E^lish  Vene  by  IL  T.  H.  Griffith,  I^st  8tw,  8j.  6d, 

[TrftliiMr'B  Ori«nt«l  Strte. 

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THB  ScIBNCX  of  LANGDAOBy  ctC 

WORKS  RELATING  TO  JAPAN. 

The    Mikado's   Empire.      By  W.    £.    Griffis.      Book  I. 

History  of  Japan  from  B.C.  660  to  A.D.  1872.  Book  II.  Personal 
Experiences,  Observations,  and  Studies  in  Japan,  1870-1874.  Second 
Ediiiony  Illustrated,    8fv,  aor. 

Olaasical  Poetry  of  the  Japanese.  By  Basil  Chamberlain. 
Post  9ifo,  p.  6d.  [TrJlbn«r'B  Ortontal  SerlM. 

Japanese  Fairy  World;  Stories  from  the  Wonder-Lore  of 
Japan.  By  W.E.  Griffis.  With  Twelve  Plates.  Spiarei6mo,y.6d. 

Things  Japanese.    By  Basil  Chamberlain.    Ck  Sv0,  js.  6d. 

Japanese  Language.  See  Works  on  Comparative  Philo- 
logy, Thb  Scibncb  of  Languagb,  etc,  and  likewise  Catalogue  of 
Chinese  and  Japanese  Books,  New  and  Second-hand,  sent  post  free 
on  receipt  of  3^ 

JEWISH   HISTORY  AND   RELIGION. 

Talmndic  Miscellany;  or,  One  thousand  and  one  Extracts 

from  the  Talmud,  the  Midrashim,  and  the  Kabbalah.  By  J.  P.  Hbr- 
SHON.    Post  8z«,  141.  [Trillnier'B  Oriental  Series. 

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ASSYRIA. 

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TiBLB.    Translated  by  J.  Ballingal.     Post  8tv,  Js,  6d. 

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WORKS   ON  COMPARATIVE   PHILOLOGY, 

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Study  of  Language,  Introdnction  to  the ;  The  History  and 

Methods  of  Comparative  Philology  of  the  Indo-European  Languages- 
By  B.  Delbruck.    8w,  Sj. 

Science  of  Langnage,  Introdnction  to  the.    By  A.  H.  Sayce. 

New  and  Cheaper  Edition,     2  vols,  crown  S/vo,  gs. 

The  Alphabet ;  An  Account  of  the  Origin  and  Development 
of  Letters.    By  Canon  Isaac  Taylor.    2  vols.  8w,  36^. 

Oomparative  Grammar  of  the  Indo-European,  Sanskrit,  Greek, 
and  Latin  Languages.  By  August  Schlbichbr.  Translated  from 
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Family  of  Languages.  By  Bishop  R.  Caldwell.  Enlarged 
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[TMUmer'B  Oriental  Setlat. 

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Science  of  Language.    By  Fbdbrico  Garlanda.     Cnmm  800,  5^ . 

Language,  Life  and  Growth  o£  By  Professor  W.  D. 
Whitney.    Fifth  Edition.     Crown  Svo,  51.  p.  8.  8. 

Language  and  the  Study  of  Language.  By  Professor  W. 
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Whitney.    Second  Edition,    Croivn  ^vo,  y,  6d, 

English  Grammar  for  Beginners.  By  H.  C.  Bowen.  Fcap, 
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Fourth  Edition,  Revised  and  En/ar^ed.     Svo,  yfi,  is. 

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Skeat.    By  H.  Wedgwood.     Crown  Svo,  5J. 

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By  Jabbz  Jenkins.    64mo,  roan,  is.  6d. ;  cloth,  is. 

Glossary  of  Terms  and  Phrases.  Edited  by  H.  Percy 
Smith  and  Others.     Cheaper  Edition,     Medium  Sm?,  5;.  6dl 

Dictionary  of  English  Literature  and  British  and  American 

Authors,  from  the  earliest  accounts  to  the  latter  half  of  the  Nineteenth 
Century.  By  S.  A.  Allibone.  3  vols,  royal  ^vo,  £$,  $s.  Supple- 
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WORKS  ON  THEOLOGY,  BIBLICAL 

EXEGESIS,  AND  DEVOTIONAL  8UBJEOT& 

Pulpit  Oommentary,  The  (Old  Testament  Series).  Edited 
by  the  Rev.  J.  S.  Exell  and  the  Very  Rev.  Dban  H.  D.  M. 
S PENCE,  D.D.  Super  Foyal  Stv.  The  Homilies  and  Homiletics  by 
various  Writers. 


By  the  Rev.  T.  Whitelaw,  D.D.  Introdnctioa  to  the 
Study  of  the  Old  Testament  by  Archdeacon  Farrar,  D.D. 
Introductions  to  the  Pentateuch  by  the  Right  Rev.  H.  Cottbrtll, 
D.D.  and  Rev.  T.  Whitelaw,  D.D,    Ninth  Edition.     15^. 

Bxodns.  By  the  Rev.  Canon  Rawlinson.  FouHh  Edition.  2  vols, 
gs.  each, 

Levitioiis.  By  the  Rev.  Prebendary  Meyrick.  Introductions  by 
the  Rev.  R.  Collins,  Rev.  Professor  A  Cave.  Fourth  Edition, 
iSs. 

Numbers.  By  the  Rev.  R.  Winterbothah.  Introduction  by  Rev. 
Thomas  Whitelaw,  D.D.    Fifth  Edition,     15J. 

Denteronomy.   By  the  Rev.  W.  L.  Alexander,  D.D.  Fourth  Edition, 

JodiiUL  By  the  Rev.  J.  J.  Lias.  Introduction  by  the  Rev.  A 
Plummer,  D.D.     Sixth  Edition,     12s,  6d, 

Judges  and  Bntb.  By  the  Bishop  of  Bath  and  Wells  and  Rev.  J. 
MORISON,  D.D.    Fifth  Edition,     los,  6d, 

L  and  XL  SamneL  By  the  Very  Rev.  R.  P.  Smith,  D.D.  Seventh 
Edition.    2  vols,    i  $5,  each, 

I.  Klngi.    By  the  Rev.  Joseph  Hammond.    Fifth  Edition,    15J; 

n.  Ktags.    By  the  Rev.  Canon  Rawlinson.    15J. 

I.  Obronloles.    By  the  Rev.  P.  C.  Barker.    Second  Edition.    151. 

XL  dironloles.    By  the  Rev.  C  Barker.    15^. 


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Bm,  Hebemlali,  and  Ertber.    By  the  Rev.  Canon  G.  Rawlinson. 
Seventh  Edition,     12s,  6d, 


By  the  Rev.  Canon  G.  Rawlinson.    Second  Edition,    2  vols, 
iSs,  each, 

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Jersmlab  (Vol.  II.)  and  Lamentatioiu.    By  the  Rev.  T.  K.  Cheynb, 
D.  D.     Third  Edition,     i  $s, 

HoBoa  and  Joel.    By  the  Rev.  Professor  J.  J.  Given,  D.D.     15^. 
Joto.    By  the  Rev.  Canon  G.  Rawlinson.    21s. 

ProvMrbfL    By  the  Rev.  W.  J.  Deanb  and  the  Rev.  S.  T.  Taylor- 
Taswell.     I5i. 


(Vol.  I.).     By  the  Very  Rev.  E.  H.  Plumptre,  D.D.     Intro- 
duction by  the  Rev.  T.  Whitelaw,  D.D.     12s,  6d, 

E»klel(Vol.  II.)    By  the  Very  Rev.  E.  H.  Plumptre,  D.D.,andthe 
Rev.  J.  Whitelaw,  D.D.     12s,  6d. 

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EXELL. 

81  Uark.      By   the   Very  Rev.   Dean    E.    Bickersteth,    D.D. 

Six/h  Edition,     2  vols,     los.  6d,  each, 

St  Luke.    By  the  Very  Rev.  H.  D.  M.  Spence.     2  vols,     los.  6d, 
each, 

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L  Corintblans.  By  the  Ven.  Archdeacon  Farrar,  D.D.  Fourth 
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n.  CkMrlntblans  and  Qalatiaiui.  By  the  Ven.  Archdeacon  Farrar, 
D.D.,  and  Rev.  Prebendary  E.  Huxtable.   Second  Edition.    21s,  • 

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Btitimn  and  Jamas.  By  the  Rev.  J.  Barmby,  D.D.  and  Rev.  Pre- 
bendary £.  C.  S.  Gibson.     Third  Edition.    151. 

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D.D.  and  the  Rev.  F.  D.  Salmond,  D.D.     Second  Edition.    15^. 

B«YdEti<m.  Introduction  by  the  Rev.  T.  Randall.  Expodtion  by 
the  Rev.  T.  Randall,  assisted  by  the  Rev.  T.  Plummer,  D.D., 
andA.T.  BOTT.    Second  Edition,     1 51. 

Imitation  of  Christ.      By  Thomas  A  Kempis.     Revised 

Translation.  Elzevir  8w  (Parchment  Library),  Vellum^  'js,  6cL  ; 
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De  Imitatione  Ohristi.  Latin  and  English.  Crown  Svo, 
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Seeds  and  Sheaves:  Thoughts  for  Incurables.  By  Lady 
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Catholic  Church.  Edited  hy  Thomas  Arnold.  Fourth  Edition. 
8v0,  2  If. 

Manual  of  Catholic  Theology,  based  on  Scheeben's  '  Dog- 
matik.'  By  Rev.  Thomas  B.  Scannell  and  Joseph  Wilhblm, 
D.D.    2  vols.  8w.    Vol.  I.  15J. 

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Introduction  by  Rev.  Luke  Rivington.     Crown  ^0,  3j.  6d. 

Authority;  or,  a  Plain  Reason  for  Joining  the  Church  of 
Rome.  By  Rev.  Luke  Rivington.  Fifth  Edition,  Crown  8w, 
3J.  6d, 

Dependence;  or,  The  Insecurity  of  the  Anglican  Position. 
By  Rev.  Luke  Rivington.     Crown  8w,  5^. 

Towards  Evening :  Selections  from  the  Writings  of  Cardinal 
Manning.    Fourth  Edition,  zoith  Facsimile.     i6mo,  2s, 

Gospel   according  to   Matthew,    Mark,    and   Luke,    The. 

Elzevir  8w  (Parchment  Library),  Fcllum,  Js,  6d,  Parchment  or 
cloth,  6s, 

Jesus  Christ.    By  the  Rev.  Father  Didon,  of  the  Order  of 

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SnpematDtal  In  Nature,  The.    A  Verification  by  the  Free 

use  of  Science.     By  Rev.  J.  W.  Rbynolds.     Third  EdUicHf  revised 
and  enlarged,     8tv,  141. 

MjBtery  of  the  Uniyerae  Our  dommon  Faith.   By  Rev.  J.  W. 

Reynolds.    Sv^,  14^. 

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J.  W.  Reynolds.     Crown  8iv»  6s. 

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Bampton  Lectures,  1889.    By  Canon  T.  K.  Chbynb.    8cv,  i6s. 

Isaiah,  The  Proiihecies  ofl  By  Canon  Cheyne.  With  Notes 

and  Dissertations.     Fifth  Edition,    2  vols.  Svo^  25^. 

Job  and  Solomon ;  or,  The  Wisdom  of  the  Old  Testament. 
By  Canon  Cheyne.    8zv,  12s,  6d. 

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Parables  of  omr  Lord,  Notes  on  the.  By  Archbishop  Trench. 

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Szv,  I2s,     Cheap  Edition,    Forty -eighth  Thousand,     Js,  6d, 

Brief  Thoughts  and  Meditations  on  some  Passages  in  Holy 

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by  George  St.  Clair.    Small  Siw,  y,  6d. 

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WORKS   ON    SPECULATIVE    THEOLOGY, 

PHILOSOPHY,   AND   COMPARATIVE 

RELIGION. 

Spinoza's  Philosophy.     Ethic  Demonstrated  in  Oeometrical 

Order  and  Divided  into  Five  Parts,  which  treat — (i)  Of  God;  (2) 
Of  the  Nature  and  Origin  of  the  Mind ;  (3)  Of  the  Origin  and  Nature  of 
the  Affects ;  (4)  Of  Human  Bondage,  or  of  the  Strength  of  the  Affects ; 
(5)  Of  the  Power  of  the  Intellect,  or  of  Human  Li&rty.  Translated 
from  the  Latin  of  Spinoza,  by  W.  Hale  White.    Post  ^vo,  los.  6d. 

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Leopardi's  Philosophy.    Essays  and  Dialogues  of  Leopardi. 

Translated  by  Charles  Edwardbs,  with  Biographical  Sketch.  Post 
Stv,  js,  6d.  [Phllosopbleal  Idtenuy. 

Schopenhauer's  Philosophy.  The  World  as  Will  and  Idea. 
From  the  German  of  Schopenhauer.  By  R.  R  Haldanb  and 
J.  Kemp.    3  wis.,  Post  Sw,  £2,  los.  [FbUosophioal  Libraxy. 

Hartmann's  Philosophy.  Philosophy  of  the  Unconscious.  By 
£.  von  Hartmann.  Translated  by  W.  C.  Couplamd.  3  vols., 
Posi  Svo,  3  If.  6d.  [PliUosoidiloal  Utoniy. 


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Fichte's  PhiloBOPliy.  COiaracteristicsof  thaFteflantA^ie.     By 

J.  Gottlieb  Fichte.    Translated  by  W.  Smith.    Post  S^w,  6s. 

New  Bzpoiltloii  of  the  Bdeiiee  of  Knowledge.    Translated  by  A«   £. 
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Science  of  Xnowledcre.    Translated  by  A.   E.  Kroeger.    With  an 
Introduction  by  Prof.  W.  T.  Harris.     lOf.  6d. 

[Fbilosophleal  Ubrmxj, 

Science  of  Biglite.    Translated  by  A«  E.  Kroeger.    With  an  Intro- 
duction by  Prof.  W.  T.  Harris.     12s.  6d,      [Fhiloiophlcal  Limzy. 

Fichte's  Popular  Works.     The  Nature  of  the  Scholar,  The 

Vocation  of  the  Scholar,  The  Vocation  of  Man,  The  Doctrine  of 
Religion,  Characteristics  of  the  Present  Age,  Outlines  of  the  Doctrine 
of  Knowledge.  With  a  Memoir  by  W.  Smith.    2  wis.,  21s, 

[PbikMopblcal  lihrazy. 

Problems  of  Life  and  Mind.   By  George  Henry  Lewes.  Sun. 

Series  I. — Foundations  of  a  Creed.     2  vols.    2&. 

Series  II.— Physical  Basis  of  Mind.    With  Illustrations.     i6s. 

Series  III. — 2  vols.    22s.  6d. 

"Eaax^y  Philosophical  and  TheologicaL     By  James    Mar- 

TINEAU.    2  vols.    CrowH  Svo^  £if  4s, 

History  of  Materialism,  and  Criticism  of  its  Present  Import- 
ance. By  Prof.  F.  A.  Langb.  Authorised  Translation  by  Ernest 
C.  Thomas.  3  vols.  Post  Svo,  los.  6d.  each.  [FUlosoiailcal  l£tsnrj. 

lEfftdl  Ideal,  The:  An  Historic  Study.  By  Julia  Wedg- 
wood.   Second  Edition.     Szv,  91. 

Positive  Philosophy  of  Angoste  Oomte.  Translated  and  Con- 
densed by  Harriet  Marti neau.  2  vols.  Second  Edition,  Post 
Svo,  25J. 

Catechism  of  Positive  Beligion.  By  Auguste  Comte.  From 
the  French  by  R.  Congreve.     Third  Edition.     Crvum  8w,  2s.  6d, 

Augusts  Comte  and  Positivism.  By  John  Stuart  Mill. 
Third  Edition.    Post  Svo,  y.  6d.  [PhUoeoidiical  XJtemiy. 

Compendium  of  the  Philosophical  System  of  Antonio  Boemini- 

Serbati.     By  T.  Davidson.     Second  Edition.    Svo,'ios.  6d 

Moral  Crder  and  Progress :  An  Analysis  of  Ethical  Concep- 
tions.    By  S.    Alexander.     Second  Edition.     Post  9vo,    141. 

[FhUoeophical  LUniiy. 

Pinal  Causes:  A  Refutation.  By  Wathen  Mark  Wilks 
Call.    Ctvwm  Scv,  5^. 


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The  Worth  of  Human  Testimony.     By  T.  Fitzarthur. 

Fcap,  Svo,  2s, 

Man's  Origin  and  Destiny.  Sketched  from  the  Platform  of 
the  Physical  Sciences.  By  J.  P.  Lbslby.  Second  Edition,  Crown 
Svo,  ys.  6d. 

On  Tmth*    By  St.  George  Mivart.     8w,  16s. 

Natural  Law:  An  Essay  in  Ethics.  By  Edith  Simcox. 
Second  Edition,    Post  Svo,  lor.  6d.  [FlillOBOplilcal  Uteary. 

Essays,  Scientific  and  FhiloeophicaL  By  Aubrey  L.  Moore. 
With  Memoir  of  the  Author.     Crown  $zfOy  dr. 

Mystery  of  Pain.  By  James  Hinton.  I^Tew  Edition.  Fcap. 
Svo,  IS. 

Law-Breaker^  The,  and  The  Ooming  of  the  Law.  By  James 
Hinton.    Edited  by  Margaret  Hinton.    Crozvn  8w,  6s. 

Philosophy  and  Beligion.  Selections  from  the  mss.  of  the 
late  Jambs  Hinton.  Edited  by  Caroline  Haddon.  Second 
Edition.     Crovon  Svo,  Ss. 

Larger  Life,  The.  Studies  in  Hinton's  Ethics.  By  Caro- 
line Haddon.     Crown  Svo,  $s. 

Phases  of  Faith ;  or,  Passages  from  the  History  of  my  Creed. 
By  F.  W.  Newman.     Crown  Svo,  $s.  6d. 

The  Sonl :  Her  Sorrows  and  her  Aspirations,  By  F.  W. 
Newman.     TentA  Edition.    Post  Svo,  y.  6d. 

Miscellanies.  Essays,  Tracts,  and  Addresses,  Moral  and  Re- 
ligious. By  F.  W.  Newman.  Svo.  Vol.  I.^ioj.  6d. ;  Vols.  II.  and 
III.  I2J.  eacA  ;  Vol.  IV.  los.  6d.  ;  Vol.  V.  I2s. 

Enigmas  of  Life.  By  W.  R.  Greg.  Seventeenth  Edition. 
Post  Svo,  los.  6eL  New  Edition  with  Prefatory  Memoir,  Edited  by 
his  Wife.    6s.  [FlLllOflopbioal  Library. 

Greed  of  Christendom,  The.  By  W.  R.  Greg.  Eighth  Edition. 
2  vols.    Post  Svo,  15X.  [PhUosopliical  Library. 

Miscellaneons  Essays.    By  W.  R.  Greg.   Two  Series.  Crown 

Szv,  Js.  6d,  each. 

Christianity,  Essence  of;  from  the  German  of  L.  Feuerbach. 
By  Marian  Evans.    Second  Edition,    Post  Svo,  ys.  6d. 

[PbllOBoiAical  Idbraxy. 

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Conflict  between  Beligion  and  Science,  The.     By  J.  W. 

Draper.     Twenty-first  EditUn,     Cmim^w,s^»  [LS.S. 

Analysis  of  Beligions  Belief.  By  Viscount  Amberley.  2 
vots,,  8v0,  3or. 

Oandid  Examination  of  Theism.  ByPHYSicus.  Second  Edition. 
Post  &ZW,  7s.  6d,  [PbOoeoiaiical  Idtoaiy. 

Oonnsels  and  Beflections.  By  Guicciardini.  Translated  by 
N.  H.  Thomson.    Crown  8zv,  6j. 

Essays  on  the  Philosophy  of  Theism.  By  W.  G.  Ward. 
Edited,  with  an  Introduction,  by  Wilfrid  Ward.   2  vols,,  Scv,  21s. 

(hreed  of  Science,  Religions,  Moral,  and  SodaL  By  William 
Graham.    Second  Edition^  revised.     Crown  Sfzw,  6s, 

Service  of  Man,  The :  An  Essay  towards  the  Religion  of  the 
Future.    By  J.  Cotter  Morison.     Crown  Bvo,  Ss, 

Beligion  and  Philosophy  in  Gtomany.  By  Heine.  Translated 
by  J.  Snodgrass.  Post  Szv,  6f.  [FliUoflopliioal  Litaazy. 

Paul  of  Tarsus.  By  the  Author  of  '  Rabbi  Jeshua.'  Croum 
Svo,  4s,  6d, 

Life  of  Jesus.  By  Ernest  Renan.  Crown  Svo,  is,  6d. 
Paper  covers^  is. 

The  Apostles.     By  Ernest  Renan.     Crown  Svo^  is.   6d. 

Paper  covers^  is, 

Jesus  of  Nazareth :  with  a  Brief  Sketch  of  Jewish  History  to 
the  Time  of  His  ^irth.  By  Edward  Clodd.  Secdnd  Edition, 
Small  croivn  8zv,  dr.  Special  Edition  for  Schools^  in  2  parts^ 
IS,  6d,  eacA, 

Ohildhood  of  Beligions,  including  a  Simple  Account  of  the 

Birth  and  Growth  of  Myths  and  Legends.  By  Edward  Clodd. 
New  Edition,  Revised^  and  partly  re^writien.  Crown  800,  $s. 
Special  Edition  for  schools^  is,  6d, 

Martyrdom  of  Man,  The.     By  Winwood  Reads.    Thirteenth 

Edition,  Sev,  7^.  id 

History  of  Beligion  to  the  Spread  of  the  Universal  Beligions, 

Outlines  of  the.  By  Prof.  C.  P.  Tiblb.  Translated  from  the  Dutch 
by  J.  EsTLiN  Carpbnter.     Fourth  Edition,    Post  8tw,  7^.  6cL 

[Vhllofoplilcal  Utoraiy  and  TrfUuMf's  Oriental  Sertos. 

Ten  Great  Beligions.  By  James  FreeaIan  Clarke.  Ad 
Essay  in  Comparative  Theology.  Zvo,  Part  I.  lOf.  6cL  Part  IL 
A  Comparison  of  all  Religions,    los,  6d, 


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Blood-Oovenaat,  The :  A  Primitive  Rite,  and  its  Bearing  on 
Scripture.   By  H.  Clay  Trumbull.    Post  8w,  7j.  dd. 

Primitive  Symbolism  as  Illustrated  in  Phallic  Worship ;  or, 

The  Reproductive  Principle.     By  Hoddbr  M.   Westropp,  with 
Introduction  by  Major-Gen.  Forlong.    8w.   7j.  6<f. 

Serpent  Worship,  and  other  Essays,  with  a  Chapter  on  Totem- 
ism.    By  C.  Staniland  Wakb.  Szv,  ioj.  (uL 

Oriental  Religions.    See  Works  o^  Oriental  Subjects. 


MYTHOLOGY  AND  FOLK-LORE. 

Zoological  Mythology;  or,  The  Legends  of  Animals.     By 

Angelo  de  Gubernatis.     2  vols,  8w,  jf  I,  8f. 

Mythology  of  the  Aryan  Nations.   .  By  Rev.  Sir  George  W. 

Cox,  Bart.     New  Editim,    8w,  i6j. 

Oomparative  Mythology  and  Folk-Lore,  Introduction  to  the 
Science  of.  By  Rev.  Sir  G.  W.  Cox. '  Second  Edition,  Crown  8w, 
7J.  6^. 

Classical  Mythology. — Tales  of  Ancient  Greece.    By  Rev. 

Sir  G.  W.  Cox.     New  Edition,     Small  Crown,  Svo,  6s. 

Manual  of  Mythology  in  the  Form  of  Question  and  Answer 

By  Rev.  Sir  G.  W.  Cox.     New  Edition,     Fcap.  8w,  3^. 
Tales  of  the  GK>ds  and  Heroes.      By  Rev.  Sir  G.  W.  Cox, 

Small  crown  Svo,  y.  6d 

Medieval  Folk-Lore. — Popular  Romances  of  the  Middle  Ages. 

By  Rev.  Sir  G.  W.  Cox  and  E.  H.  Jones.     TAird  Edition,     Crown 
SvOf  6s, 

Greeko-Slayonic  Literature  and  its  Relation  to  the  Folk- 
Lore  of  Europe  during  the  Middle  Ages.  By  M.  Gaster.  Laf:^e 
Post  Svo,  7s,  6d. 

Ethnology  in  Folk-Lore.  By  George  Laurence  Gomme. 
Crown  SvOf  2s.  6d,  [Hodttn  Bettnoft  Berita. 

Bushman  Folk-Lore,  Brief  Account  of.    By  W.  H.  I.  Bleek. 

Polio,  2s,  6d, 

Hottentot  Folk-Lore. — Reynard  the  Fox  in  South  Africa; 
or,  Hottentot  Fables  and  Tales.  By  W.  H.  I.  Bleek.  Post 
%vOy  is,  6d, 

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34         Kegan  Paul,  Trench,  Triibner,  and  Co/s 
TnrkifllL  Tales. — The  History  of  the  Forty  Vezin ;  or,  The 

Story  of  the  Forty  Moms  and  Eves,  Translated  from  the  Turkish  by 
E.  J.  W.  GiBB.     Crown  8w,  i(W.  6^1 

Eastern  Proverbs  and  Emblems  Illustrating  Old  Truths.  By 
J.  Long.    Post  Svo,  6s,  [Ttatoner's  Oriental  Series. 

Indian   Mythology. — ^Vishnn  PordnA :  A  System  of  Hindu 

Mythology  and  Tradition.  From  the  original  Sanskrit.  lUustiated 
by  Notes  derived  chiefly  from  other  Puranas.  Translated  by  H.  H. 
Wilson.     Edited  by  Fitz  Edward  Hall.     5  wis.    ;f  3,  4^.  6d, 

Indian  Mythology. — Olassical  Dictionary  of  Hindu  Mytho- 
logy and  History,  Geography,  and  Literature.  By  John  Dowson. 
Post  Bvo,  i&s,  [Mllmer*!  Oriental  Berlea. 


Indian   Mythology.  —  Cosmogony,  Mythology,  etc  of  the 

Indians  in  the  Vedic  Age.   By  John  Muir.    Third  EdUiatu  £1^  is. 

Indian  Folk-Lore. — History,  Folk-Lore,  and  Distribution  of 

the  Races  of  the  North- Western  Province^  of  India.  By  Sir  H.  M. 
Elliott.  Edited  by  J.  Bbames.  With  3  coloured  Maps.  2  vols. 
8w,  £it  i6j. 

Buddhist  Birth-Stories;    or,   Jataka    Tales.      The    Oldest 

collection  of  Folk-Lore  extant :  being  the  Jatakatthavannana. 
Translated  from  the  Pali  text  of  V.  Fausboll  by  T.  W.  Rhys 
Davids.    Post  $vo,  iSs.  [TrilDner's  Oriental  f 


Tibetan  Tales,  derived  from  Indian  Sources.  Done  into 
English  from  the  German  of  F.  Anton  von  Schiefner.  By  W.  R. 
S.  Ralston.    Post  Svo,  14s.  [Triibner's  Oriental  f    ' 


Bmmese   Folk-Lore. — Ancient  Proyerbs  and  Maxims  from 

.    Burmese  Sources ;  or,  The  Niti  Literature  of  Burma.     By  J.  Gray. 
Post  Svo,  6s.  [Triil)ner*8  Oriental  Series. 

Folk  Tales  of  Kashmir.  By  Rev.  J.  H.  Knowles.  Post  Stfo^ 
i6s.  [Trtiliner's  Oriental  Sezlee. 

Folk  Songs  of  Southern  India,  containing  Canarese,  Badaga, 
Coorg,  Tamil,  Malayalam,  and  Telugu  Songs.  By  C  E.  Govkr, 
Svo,  los.  6d. 

Japanese  Fairy  World:  Stories  from  the  Wonder-lore  of 
Japan.     By  W.  E.  Griffis.     With  12  Plates.    Square  iSm^^ss.  6d. 

Folk-Lore  of  Ohina,  and  its  Affinities  with  that  of  the  Aryan 
and  Semitic  Races.     By  N.  B.  Dennys.     Svo,  los.  6d. 

Proverbs  and   their   Lessons.      By  Archbishop  Trbnch, 

Seventh  £ditum,  enlarged,     Fcap.  Zvo^  4^. 


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Mandan    Onstoms. — O-Eee-Pa,  A  Religious  Ceremony ;  and 

other  customs  of  the  Mandans.    By  Georgb  Catlin.    With  13 
Coloured  Illustrations.     Small  4I0,  14s. 

Oriental  Mythology.    See  Works  on  Oriental  Subjects. 


WORKS   RELATING   TO   THE   OCCULT 

SCIENCES,  ANIMAL   MAGNETISM, 

SPIRITISM,  AND  THEOSOPHY. 

Hermes  Trismegistns,  Ohristian  Keoplatonist,  Theological  and 
Philosophical  Works  of.  Translated  from  the  Greek  by  J.  D. 
Chambers.    Svo,  p.  6d, 

Hermes  Trismegistus.  The  Virgin  of  the  World.  Translated 
and  edited  by  the  Authors  of  *  The  Perfect  Way.*  Illustrations.  4/^?, 
imitation  parchment i  lOr.  dd. 

The  Oceult  Sciences,  A  Compendium  of  Transcendental 
Doctrine  and  Practice.     By  A.  E.  Waite.     Crown  Svo,  6s. 

The  Kabbalah  Unveiled,  containing  the  Chief  Books  of  the 
Zohar.  Translated  by  S.  L.  M.  Mathers  from  the  Latin  version 
of  *  Rosenrolh/  collated  with  the  Chaldee  and  Hebrew  Text.  Post 
2ivo,  10s,  6d. 

Magic,  Mysteries  of :  A  Digest  of  the  Writings  of  Eliphas 
LAvi.     By  A.  E.  Waite.     With  Illustrations.     8w,  los,  6d. 

Magic,  White  and  Black ;  or,  The  Science  of  Finite  and  In- 
finite Life.  By  Franz  Hartmann.  TAird  Edition.  Crown  Svo, 
7s.  6d. 

Practical  Magic. — The  Key  of  Solomon  the  King,  translated 
from  ancient  Mss.  in  the  British  Museum.  By  S.  L.  M.  Mathers. 
With  numerous  Plates.     Crown  4/^,  25J. 

Aldiemy. — ^Lives  of  Alchemystical  Philosophers,  based  on 

materials  collected  m  181 5,  and  supplemented  by  recent  researches. 
By  A.  E.  Waitb.     With  a  Bibliography  of  Alchemy.     Svo,  los.  6d. 

Astarology. — Spiritual  Hermeneatics  of  Astrology  and  Holy 

Writ.     Edited  by  ANNA  KiNGSFORD,     With  Illustrations.     4/0, 
parchment,  los.  6d. 

Astrology. — The  Astrologer's  Gnide  {Anima  Asirologici). 
Edited  by  W.  C  Eldon  Serjeant.    8w,  "js.  6d. 

^rp&oii8in>  or  Animal  Magnetism.     By  Rudolph  Heiden- 

HAIN,  with  Preface  by  G.  J.  Romanes.     Second  Edition.     Small 
Svo,  2s.  6d, 


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Animal  Magnetism.     By  A.  Binet  and  C.  ¥±Ri.    Second 

Edition,     Crown  Svo,  5j.  [L  8.  S. 

Phantasms  of  the  Living.  By  Edmund  Gurney,  F.  W.  H. 
Myb&s,  and  F.  Podmore.    2  vols,  Svoy  21s, 

Phantoms. — ^Posthumous  Humanity :  A  Study  of  Phantoms, 
from  the  French  of  Adolphb  D'Assibr,  by  Colonel  Olcott. 
With  Appendix  and  Notes.     Croztm  8zv,  7^.  6d. 

The  Bationale  of  Mesmerism     By  A.  P.  Sinnbtt.     Crown 

8w,  3J.  6flr. 

Theosophy. — The  Occult  Worid.    By  A.  P.  Sinnett.    Fifth 

Edition,     Crown  Svo,  3^.  6d, 

Theosophy,  Religion,  and  Occult  Science.  By  Colonel  Olcott, 

With  Glossary  of  Eastern  words.     Crown  Svo,  7s.  6d, 

Theosophy.— Incidents  in  the  Life  of  Madame  Bl&TEtsky. 

By  A.  P.  Sinnett.    With  Portrait.    8w,  lOf.  6d, 

Theosophy.— Light  on  the  Path,  for  the  Personal  Use  of  those 
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Fcap,  Svo,  IS,  6d. 

Bosicrucians,  Real  History  of  the,  founded  on  their  own 
Manifestoes.  By  A.  E.  Waite.  With  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo, 
7s,  6d, 

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Mysticism,  Philosophy  of.  Translated  from  the  German  of 
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Mysticism- The  Way,  the  Truth,  and  the  Life :  A  Hand- 
book of  Christian  Theosophy,  Healing,  and  Psychic  Culture.  By 
J.  H.  Dewey,    ioj.  6d, 

Mysticism. — The  Pilgrims  :  An  Allegory  of  the  SouFs  Pro- 
gress from  the  Earthly  to  the  Heavenly  State.  By  Charles  Fox. 
Crown  Svo,  $s. 

Mysticism. — Through  the  Gkites  of  Ck>ld.  A  Fragment  of 
Thought.    By  Mabel  Collins.    Small  Svo,  4s,  6d. 

Oriental  Mysticism. — The  Indian  Religions;  or,  Results 
of  the  Mysterious  Buddhism.  By  Hargravb  Jennings.  Svo, 
10s,  6d, 

Esoteric  Philosophy.— The  Hidden  Way  across  the  Threshold ; 

or,  The  Mystery  which  hath  been  hidden  for  ages  and  from  genera* 
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Qeometrical  Psychology ;  or,  The  Science  of  Representation. 
An  abstract  of  the  Theories  and  Diagrams  of  B.  W.  Betts.  By 
Louisa  S.  Cook.    Sixteen  Plates.    ^0,  7s.  6d. 

Rdncanuktion.  The  Idea  of  Be-Birth.  By  Francesca 
Arundalk,  with  Preface  by  A.  P.  Sinnett.     Crown  8w,  4s,  6d. 

Paracelsofl,  Life  of,  and  the  Substance  of  his  Teachings. 
By  Franz  Hartmann.    Post  Sw,  10s,  6d, 

Jacob  Boehme,  Life  and  Doctrines  of :  An  Introduction  to 
the  study  of  his  works.     By  Franz  Hartmann.    Post  Svo,  los.  6d, 

Thomas  Vaughan,  Magical  Writings  of.  Edited,  with  Intro- 
duction and  Notes.    By  A.  E.  Waite.    Small  4to,  10s.  6d. 

Siriritualism.  —  Miracles  and  Modem  Spiritnalism.  By 
Alfred  Russell  Wallace.    Second  Edition,    Crown  Sw,  55. 

Spiritualism. — Footfalls  on  the  Boundary  of  Another  World. 
With  narrative  Illustrations,  by  Robert  Dale  Owen.    Post  8zv, 

Spiritualism. — ^Debatable  Land  between  this  World  and  the 

Next.    By  Robert  Dale  Owen.    With    Illustrative  narrations. 
Second  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  7  j.  6d. 

Spiritualism. — Threading  my  Way :  Twenty-seven  Years  of 
Autobiography.'    By  Robert  Dale  Owen.     Crown  Svo,  ys,  6d. 

Chiromancy. — The  Influence  of  the  Stars:  A  Treatise  on 
Astrology,  Chiromancy,  and  Physiognomy.  .By  RoSA  Baughan. 
Svo,  Ss, 

Ghiromancy. — Palmistry  and  its  Practical  Uses.  By  Louise 
Cotton.    Twelve  Plates.     Crown  Svo,  2s,  6d. 

Fortune-Telling. — ^The  Tarot:  Its  Occult  Signification,  Use 
in  Fortune-telling,  and  Method  of  Play.  By  S.  L.  M.  Mathers. 
With  pack  of  78  Tarot  cards,  5^ . ;  without  the  cards,  is,  6d. 


NUMISMATICS. 

Numismata  Orientalia,  The.  I^oya/  \io,  in  Paper  Wrapper, 
Part.  I.— Ancient  Indian  Weights.  By  E.  Thomas.  With  a  Plate 
and  Map,  gj.  6d,  Part  II.— Coins  of  the  Urtuki  Turkumins.  By  S. 
Lane  Poole.  With  6  Plates,  gj.  Part  III.— Coinage  of  Lydia  and 
Persia.  By  Barclay  V.  Head.  With  3  Plates,  los,  6d,  Part  IV. 
—Coins  of  the  Tuluni  Dynasty.  By  E.  T.  Rogers.  With  i  Plate. 
5j.  Part  v.— Parthian  Coinage.  By  Percy  Gardner.  With  8 
Plates,  i8j.  Part  VI. — Ancient  Coins  and  Measures  of  Ceylon.  By 
T.  W.  Rhys  Davids.    With  i  Plate,  los. 


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Vol.  I.  containiDg  the  first  six  parts  as  specified  abore.  Royal  ^^ 
half -bound,  £^,  ly,  6d. 

Vol.  II.  Coins  of  the  Jews  :  being  a  history  of  the  Jewish  coinage  in 
the  Old  and  New  Testaments.  By  F.  W.  Maddsn.  With  279 
Woodcuts  and  Plate.     Royal  4/0,  £2, 

Vol.  III.  Part  I.— The  Coins  of  Arakan,  of  P^;u,  and  of  Burma.  By 
Lieut. -General  Sir  Arthur  Phayrb.  Also  contains  the  Indian 
Balhara  and  the  Arabian  Intercourse  with  India  in  the  ninth  and 
following  centuries.  By  Edward  Thomas.  With  5  Illustrations. 
Royal  i^o,  8^.  dd. 

Vol.  III.  Part  II.— The  Coins  of  Southern  India.  By  Sir  W.  ELLIOTT. 
With  Map  and  Plates.    Royal  4^0,  25^. 

Numismata  Orientalia;  Illustrated.  Fifty-seven  Plates  of 
Oriental  Coins,  Ancient  and  Modem,  from  the  collection  of  the  late 
William  Marsdbn,  F.R.S.  Engraved  from  drawings  made  under 
his  directions.    4/^,  31.  6d, 


GENERAL  AND   EUROPEAN    HISTORY. 

Christian   Origins. — The  Rise  of  Ohristendom.    By  Edwin 

Johnson.    8w,  14s, 

Early  Britain. — The  Celt,  the  Bomaa,  and  the  Saxon:  A 

History  of  the  early  inhabitants  of  Britain  down  to  the  conversion  of 
the  Anglo-Saxons  to  Christianity.  By  Thomas  Wright.  Corrected 
and  Enlarged  Edition,    With  nearly  300  Engravings.    Crown  8«v,  ^y. 

The  History  of  Canada.  By  W.  Kingsford.  Vol.  i.  1608- 
1682  ;  vol.  ii.  1679- 1 725  ;  vol.  iii.  1 726- 1756  ;  vol.  iv.  1756-1763  ; 
vol.  V.  1763-1775.     With  Maps.    8w,  151.  each  volume. 

Lectures   to  American   Audiences.      By  £.  A.  Freeman. 

I.  The  English  People  in  its  Three  Homes.  II.  Practical  Bearings  of 
General  European  History.     Post  8w,  8j.  (id* 

The  White  King ;  or,  Charles  the  First,  and  Men  and  Women, 
Life  and  Manners,  etc.  in  the  first  half  of  the  seventeenth  century*. 
By  W.  H.  Davenport  Adams.    2  vols,    8w,  21^. 

The  London  Oharterhouse :  Its  Monks  and  its  Martyrs.     By 

DoM  Lawrence  Hbndriks.    Illustrated.    8zv,  15^. 

Ireland,  Short  History  of.  By  C.  G.  Walpole,  With  5 
Maps  and  Appendices.     Third  Edition,     Crown  SzfO,  &s. 

Two  Centuries  of  Irish  History.  With  Introduction  by 
jAs.  Brycb,  M.P.,  ^vo,  i6s. 


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Ireland.— Oeltic   Ireland.      By  Sophie  Bryant.     With    3 

Maps.     Crown  Sw,  55. 

Itaace  and  the  French  in  the  Second  Half  of  the  Nineteenth 

Century.      By  Karl    Hillebrand.      Translated  from  the  third 
German  Edition.     Post  Sw,  los.  6d. 

Pope  Joan:  An  Historical  Study,  from  the  Greek  of  Emmanuel 
Rhoidis.    By  C.  H.  Collette.     i2m0y  2s,  6d. 

liartin  Luther  and  the  Reformation  in  Germany.  By 
Charles  Beard.    $vo,  16s. 

Reformation. — Lectures  and  Papers  on  the  History  of  the 
Reformation  in  England  and  on  the  Continent.  By  Aubrey  L. 
Moore,    ^vo,  16s. 

South   America. — Spanish  and  Portuguese  South  America 

during  the  Colonial  Period.      By  R.   G.  Watson.     2  vols.     Post 
^V0,  21s, 

Egyptian  Revolution,  History  of  the,  firom  the  Period  of  the 

Mamelukes  to  the  death  of  Mohammed  Ali.     By  A.  A.   Paton. 
Second  Edition,     2  vols,  Svo,  ys,  6d, 

Trade  Guilds. — History  and  Development  of  Guilds  and  the 

Origin  of  Trade  Unions.     By  Lujo  Brentano.     8w,  3j.  6d, 

Tithes,  History  of,  firom  Abraham  to  Queen  Victoria.  By 
Henry  W.  Clark.     Crown  8w,  5j. 

Gustavus  Adolphus  in  Germany,  and  other  Lectures  on  the 

Thirty  Years'  War.    By  Archbishop  Trench.     Third  Edition^ 
enlarged,     Fcap.  Svo,  4^. 

Mediaval  Ohurch  History,  Lectures  on ;  being  the  substance 
of  Lectures  delivered  at  Queen*s  College,  London.  By  Arch- 
bishop Trench.     Second  Editim.     8zv,  I2f. 

Religious  Life  of  England,  Retrospect  of  the ;  or,  Church, 
Puritanism,  and  Free  Inquiry.  By  J.  J.  Tayler.  Second  Ediium. 
Post%euo,  is,  6d, 

The  Early  History  of  Balliol  College.     By  Frances  de 

PaRAVICINI.      8»^,  I2f. 

History  of  St.  Martin's  Ohurch,  Canterbury.  By  Canon 
C.  F.  RouTLBDGB.     Crown  Szfo,  5j. 

The  Maldng  of  Italy,  1856-1870.  By  The  O'Clery.  Svo, 
1 6 J. 

The  Irish  in  Britain  from  the  Earliest  Times  to  the  Fall 
and  Death  of  Pamell.     By  John  Denvir.     Crown  Svo,  6s, 

The  Martyrdom  of  Man.  By  Winwood  Reade.  Fourteenth 
Ediium.     Crown  Svo^  js,  6d, 


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Popular  History  of  the  Mexican  People.    By  K.  H.  Ban- 

«     CROFT.      SzfO,  I5J. 

An^lo-Jewish  History,  Sketches  of.     By  James  Picciotto. 

Scripture  History  for  Jewish  Schools  and  Families,  Mannal 
of.     By  L.  B.  Abrahams.    With  Map.     Crown  8cv,  is.  6d, 

Blunders  and   Forgeries :    Historical  Essays.       By   T. '  E. 
Bridgett.     Crown  Svo,  6s. 

The  Gypsies.    By  C.  G.  Leland.     Crtmm  Svo,  lox.  6d. 

Oriental  History.    See  Works  on  Oriental  Subjects. 


TRAVELS,    VOYAQE8,    AND    QUIDE-BOOK& 

Equatorial  Afirica.  The  Kilima-NJaro  Expedition :  A  Record 
of  Scientific  Exploration  in  Eastern  Equatorial  Africa.  By  H.  H. 
Johnston.    With  6  Maps  and  80  Illustrations.    8w,  21s. 

South  Africa. — Matabele  Land  and  the  Victoria  Falls :   A 

Naturalist's  wanderings  in  the  interior  of  South  Africa.  By  Frank 
Gates.  Edited  by  C.  G.  Gates.  With  numerous  Illustrations  and 
4  Maps.     ^Wf  21  s. 

Zululand. — Oetywayo  and  his  White  Neighbours;  or,  Re- 
marks on  Recent  Events  in  Zululand,  Natal,  and  the  Transvaal.  By 
H.  Rider  Haggard.     TAt'rd  Edition.     Crown  8w,  6s. 

South  America,  Around  and  About:  Twenty  Months  of 
Quest  and  Query.  By  Frank  Vincent.  With  Maps,  Plans,  and 
54  Illustrations.     Mtdtum  Svo,  21s, 

Chiiana,  Among  the  Indians  of:  Sketches,  chiefly  Anthro- 
pologic, from  the  interior  of  British  Guiana.  By  Everard  F.  Im 
Thurn.    With  53  Illustrations  and  a  Map.    $po,  iSs. 

British  New  Guinea,  Toil,  Travel,  and  Discovery  in.  By 
Theodore  F.  Bevan.    With  5  Maps.    Ztf^jr  crown  8tw,  7s.  6d. 

Two  Tears  in  a  Jungle,      by  W.   T.  Hornaday.      With 

Illustrations.     Zvo^  2is. 

History  of  a  Slave.  By  H.  H.  Johnston.  With  Forty- 
seven  Illustrations.     Square  %vo^  6s, 

Fu-Sang ;  or,  The  Discovery  of  America  by  Chinese  Buddhist 
Priests  in  the  fifth  century.     By  C.  G.  Leland.     Crown  Bvo,  js.  6d, 


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Kashmir  and  Kashgar:  The  Journey  of  the  Embassy' to 
Kashgar  in  1873-74.  By  Surgeon-General  H.  W.  Bbllew. 
Svtf,  los,  6d. 

Egypt:  Leaves  from  an  Egyptian  Note-Book.    By  Canon 

Isaac  Taylor.     Crown  Svo^  51. 

Egypt  as  a  Winter  Resort    By  F.  M.  Sandwith.     Crvu/n 

.  ZvOt  3f.  6d, 

Japan :  Notes  of  a  Tour  from  Brindisi  to  Yokohama,  1883- 
1884.    By  Lord  Ronald  Gower.    Fcap,  8w,  2j.  6d. 

Ceylon. —A  Visit  to  Oeylon.  By  Professor  Ernst  Haeckel. 
Post  8w,  7J.  6d. 

Bermuda  Islands.     By  A.  Heilprin.     Zvo^  i8x. 

Holy  Land,  Forty  Days  in  the.      By  E.  H.   Mitchell. 

With  6  Illustrations.     Crown  8z^,  6s, 

Bulgaria,  Past  and  Present:  Historical,  Political,  and  De- 
scriptive. By  Jambs  Samuelson.  With  Map  and  numerous 
Illustrations.     %vOy  los,  6d. 

H.B.H.  The  Duke  of  Olarence  and  Avondale   in  Southern 

India.  By  J.  D.  Rees.  With  a  narrative  of  Elephant  Catching  in 
Mysore,  by  G.  P.  Sanderson.  With  Map,  Portraits,  and  Illustra- 
tions.    Medium  8w,  31J.  6d, 

Lord  Oonnemara's  Tours  in  India,  1886-1890.  By  J.  D. 
Rees.    With  Maps.     8w,  ly. 

Buried  Cities  and  Bible  Countries.  By  George  St.  Clair. 
Large  crovm  8»(?,  is,  6d, 

Naples  in  1888.  By  E.  N.  Rolfe  and  H.  Ingleby.  With 
Illustrations.     Crown  Svo,  6s, 

Venetian  Studies.  By  Horatio  F.  Brown.  Crown  Svo,  js,  6d. 

Lagoons,  Life  on  the.  By  H.  F.  Brown.  With  2  Illustra- 
tions and  Map.     Crown  SvOj  6s. 

G^emIany,  Present  and  Past  By  S.  Baring-Gould.  JVew 
and  cheaper  Edition,     Large  crown  800,  7^.  6d, 

Carlsbad  and  its  Natural  Healing  Agents.  By  J.  Kraus. 
With  Notes  by  John  T.  Wallers.  Third  Edition,  Crown 
%vOy  6s,  6d, 

The  Alps.  By  Prof.  F.  Umlauft.  Translated  by  Louisa 
Brough.     With  no  Illustrations,    ^vo^  2y. 


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B*.    Bradsliaw's   Dictionary  of  Mineral   Waters,    Climatic 

Health  Resorts,  Sea  Baths,  and  Hydropathic  Establishments.     VTiih 
Maps  and  Plans.     Crown  Svo,  2j.  6d, 

Alone  through  Syria.  By  Ellen  E.  Miller.  With  an  Intro- 
duction by  Prof.  A.  H.  Sayce.  With  8  Illustrations.  Second  Edition, 
Cr.  8w,  5J. 

Arctic  Expedition. — The  Great  Frozen  Sea :  A  Personal 
Narrative  of  the  Voyage  of  the  AUrt  during  the  Arctic  Expedition  of 
1875-76.  By  Captain  Albert  Hastings  Majblkham.  With 
Illustrations  and  Map.     Sixth  and  cheaper  Edition,     Crown  2(oo^  6f. 

North  Wales.— Through  North  Wales  with  a  Knapsack.     By 

Four  Schoolmistresses.     With  a  Sketch  Map.     Small  Svo,  zs.  6d. 

Madeira,  Handbook  of  the  Island  o£    By  J.  M.  Rendell. 

With  Plan  and  Map.     Second  Edition,    Fcap,  8cv,  \s,  6d, 

The  Architecture  of  the  Churches  of  Denmark.  By  Major 
Alfred  Healbs.    %vOy  141. 


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St.  Anselm,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  and  Primate  of  the 
Britains,  Life  and  Times  of.     By  Martin  Rule.     3  w/j.,  8tw,  32J. 

Thomas  Becket,   Martyr  Patriot      By  R.   A.   Thompson. 

Crown  Svo,  6j. 

Thomas  Oranmer,  D.D.,  First  Reforming  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury,  Life,  Times,  and  Writings  oL  By  C.  H.  Collette. 
8w,  7s.  6d, 

William  Laud,  sometime  Archbishop  of  Canterbury.  By  A 
C.  Benson.     Crown  Sivo,  6s, 

John  Henry  Newman,  the  Founder  of  Modem  Anglicanism, 
and  a  Cardinal  of  the  Roman  Church.  By  Wilfrid  Mbynell. 
Crown  Szfo,  2s,  6d, 

John  Henry  Newman.  Contributions  chiefly  to  the  Eariy 
History  of  the  late  Cardinal  Newman;  By  F.  W.  Newman. 
Crown  Svo,  3^.  6d, 

Archbishop   Trench,   Letters  and  Memorials   of.      By  the 

Author  of  *  Charles  Lowder.*    With  2  Portraits.     2  vols,  Svo,  2is. 

Bishop  Wilberforce  of  Oxford  and  Winchester,  Life  of     By 

his  Son.     Crown  Svo,  gs. 

Antonio  Bosmini  Sorhati,  Life  of  By  Rev.  W.  Lockhart. 
With  Portraits.     2  vols,  crown  Svo,  iSx. 


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P.  W.  Bobertson,  Life  and  Letters  of.  Edited  by  Stopford 
Brooke. 

I.  Library  Edition,  with  Portrait.     Svo,  I2s, 
II.  With  Portrait.     2  vols,  crown  Svo,  7 J.  6d, 
III.  Popular  Eklition.     Crtmrn  Bvo,  6s» 

Bishop  Selwyn  of  New  Zealand  and  of  Lichfield :  A  Sketch 
of  His  Life  and  Work,  with  further  gleanings  from  his  Letters, 
Sermons,  and  Speeches.  By  Canon  Curteis.  Lar^e  crown  8w, 
7j.  (>d. 

Bishop  Bawle:  A  Memoir.  By  G.  Mather  and  C  J. 
Blago,     Large  crown  %vo,  ys.  6d, 

Bishop  Forbes  :  A  Memoir.  By  Donald  J.  Mackay.  With 
Portrait  and  Map.     Crown  Svo,  *js,  6d. 

Burke,  T.  N.,  Life  of  the  Very  Rev.  By  W.  J.  Fitzpatrick. 
With  Portrait.    2  vols,  8w,  30J. 

Alexander  Heriot  Mackonochie:  A  Memoir.  By  £.  A.  T. 
Edited,  with  Preface,  by  E.  F.  Russell.  With  Portrait  and  Views. 
Large  crown  8v^,  ^s,  6a,     Cheap  Edition,  crown  8zv,  jj.  6fif. 

Pope  Joan :  An  Historical  Study,  from  the  Greek  of  Rhoidis. 
Translated  by  C.  H.  Collette.     \2mo,  2j.  6d, 

William  Gaston,  England's  First  Printer,  Biography  and 
Topography  of.  By  W.  Blades.  %vo,  hand-made  pater,  imitaium 
oid  bevelled  binding,  £i,  is.     Cheap  Edition,     Crown  ovo,  5^. 

Francis  Bacon,  Life  and  Times  of.     By  James  Spedding. 

2  vols,  post  $V0,  21 S. 

Percy  Bysshe  Shelley,  Life  of.   By  Edward  Dowdkn,  LL.D. 

With  Portraits.     2  vo/s,  &vo,  36J, 

In  Tennyson  Land:  A  Brief  Account  of  the  Home  and 
Early  Surroundings  of  the  Poet  Laureate.  By  J.  Cuming  Walters. 
With  Illustrations.     8v<7,  5x. 

Longfellow,  Life  o£     By  his  Brother  Samuel  Longfellow. 

With  Portraits  and  Illustrations.     3  vols,  Svo,  42s. 

Lord  L3rtton,  Life,  Letters,  and  Literary  Remains  of  Edward 
Bulwer,  Lord  Lytton.  By  the  Earl  of  Lytton.  With  Portraits, 
Illustrations,  and  Facsimiles.     Svo,  vols,  L  and  IL,  32J. 

Balph  Waldo  Emerson,  Talks  with.      By  C.  J.  Woodbury. 

Crown  Svo,  $s. 

Emerson  at  Home  and  Abroad.  By  M.  D.  Conway.  With 
Portrait.     Post  Svo,  los.  6d,  [Philosophloal  Library. 

Oeorge  Eliot,  Thoughts  upon  her  Life,  her  Books,  and 
Herself  By  Ma&garst  Lonsdale.  Second  Edition,  Small  Svo, 
U.6d, 


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John  Loihrop  Motley :  A  Memoir.     By  Oliver  Wendkll 

HOLMBS.     Croton  Szw,  6s, 

Giordano  Bmno,  the  Nolan,  Life  of.  By  I.  Frith.  Re- 
vised by  Professor  MoRiz  Carriers.    With  Portrait    PostSvo,  14s, 

Benedict  de  Spinoza,  Life,  Correspondence,  and  £thics  of. 

By  R.  Willis.    8w,  21s. 

Thomas  k  Eempis :  Notes  of  a  Visit  to  the  Scenes  in  which 
the  Life  of  Thomas  k  Kempis  was  spent.  By  F.  R.  Cruisk.  With 
numerous  Illustrations.     $tw,  izs, 

Lessing :  His  Life  and  Writings.  By  James  Sime.  Second 
Edition,    2  vols.    With  Portraits.     Post  ^uo,  21s, 

[PbUosophloal  Ilbnzy. 

Edgar  Qtdnet :  His  Early  Life  and  Writings.  By  Richard 
Heath.  With  Portraits,  Illustrations,  and  an  Autograph  Letter. 
Post  Stfo,  i2s,  6d,  [FtiUoiopliical  LIbnry 

Johann    Gottlieb    Fichte,    Memoir  of.      By   W.    Smith. 

Second  Edition,    Post  8t»?,  45. 

James  Hinton,  Life  and  Letters  of.  With  an  Introduction 
by  Sir  W.  W.  Gull,  and  Portrait  engraved  on  steel  by  C  H.  JssNS. 
Sixth  Edition,     Crown  8zv7,  &r.  6d, 

Dr.  Appleton:  His  Life  and  Literary  Relics.  By  J.  H. 
Appleton  and  A.  H.  Saycb.    Post  Sw,  los,  6d. 

[FIiilMoplileal  UUruy. 

Mendelssohn's  Letters  to  Ignaz  and  Charlotte  Moscheles. 
Translated  by  Felix  Moscheles.  Numerous  Illustrations  and 
Facsimiles.     ^0,  12s. 

William  Oharles  Macready.  By  William  Archer.  Crvwn 
Svo,  2s,  6d,  [Rm1n<mt  Acton. 

Thomas  Betterton.    By  R  W.  Lowe.     Crown  Stfo,  2s,  6^. 

[Eminent  Acton. 

Oharles  Macklin.  By  Edward  Abbott  Parry.  Crown  Zvo^ 
2s.  6d,  [Bminent  Aeton 

Charles  Dickens  and  the  Stage ;  or,  A  Record  of  his  Con- 
nection with  the  Drama.     By  T.   Edgar  Pbmbsrton.     Crvwn 

Zvo,  6s, 

John  Leech,  Artist  and  Humourist :  A  Biographical  Sketch. 
By  Fred  G.  Kitton.    iZmo,  is, 

Major-(}eneral  Sir  Thomas  Munro :  A  Memoir.  By  Sir  A. 
J.  Arbuthnot.     Crown  9tfo,  y,  6d, 


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Major-Oeneoral  0.  G.  Qordon,  His  Journals  at  Khartoum. 
Printed  from  the  Original  Mss.,  with  Introduction  and  Notes  by 
A.  Egmont  Hake.  Portrait,  2  Maps,  and  30  Illustrations.  2  vols, 
SvOf  2ls.     Cheap  Edition^  6s, 

Oordon's  Last  Journal:  A  Facsimile  of  the  Last  Journal 
received  in  England  from  General  Gordon.  Reproduced  by  photo- 
lithography.   Imperial  4/^,  ;^3,  35. 

General  Gordon,  Events  in  the  Life  of,  from  the  Day  of  his 
Birth  to  the  Day  of  his  Death.  By  Sir  H.  W.  Gordon.  With 
Maps  and  Illustrations.    Second  Edition,     ^0,  p,  6d, 

Beynell  Taylor,  O.B.,  O.S.L  :  A  Biography.  By  E.  Gambier 
Parry.     With  Portrait  and  Map.     Svo,  14s. 

President  Garfield,  Life  and  Public  Services  of  James  A. 
Garfield,  President  U.  S.  A.  By  Captain  F.  H.  Mason.  With  a 
Preface  by  Bret  Harte.     Portrait.     Crozvn  Zvo,  2s.  6d. 

Gonvemeur  Morris :  Minister  of  the  United  States  to  France, 
Diary  and  Letters  of.  By  Anne  C.  Morris.  With  Portraits. 
2  vols,  Svo,  $os, 

Madame  de  Maintenon.  By  Emily  Bowles.  With  Por- 
trait   Lar^  crown  8w,  'js,  td, 

Marie  Antoinette,  Last  Days  of:  An  Historical  Sketch.  By 
Lord  Ronald  Gowbr.  With  Portrait  and  Facsimiles.  Fcap.  4/^, 
105.  6d, 

Bnpert  of  the  Rhine :  A  Biographical  Sketch  of  the  Life  of 
Prince  Rupert.  By  Lord  Ronald  Gower.  With  3  Portraits. 
Crown  $vo,  buckram^  ts, 

Mjr  Beminiflcences.  By  Lord  Ronald  Gower.  Miniature 
Edition.  Printed  on  hand-made  paper^  limp  parchment  antique, 
los.  6d. 

ParacelBUB,  Life  of,  and  the  Substance  of  his  Teachings.  By 
Franz  Hartmann.    Post  Svo,  los,  6d, 

The  Life  of  Francis  Duncan,  O.B.,  B.A.,  MP.  By  Rev. 
Henry  Birdwood  Blogg.  With  Introduction  by  Lord  Bishop  of 
Chester.     Crown  Sv^,  3^.  6d, 

Jacob  Boehme,  Life  and  Doctrines  of.  An  Introduction  to 
the  Study  of  his  Works.    By  Franz  Hartmann.    Post  %vo,  los,  6d. 

Robert  Dale  Qwen:  Threading  my  Way:  Twenty-seven 
Years  of  Autobiography.     Crown  Svo,  ys,  6d. 

D.  D.  Home :  His  Life  and  Mission.  By  Mroe.  Dunglas 
Home.    With  Portrait.    8zv,  10s, 

ae   Blavatsky,  Incidents  in  the  Life  of.      By  A.  P. 
Sinnett.    With  Portrait.    Sw,  lox.  6d, 


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Alexander  Osoma  de  Edrds,  Life  and  Works  of,  between  1819 
and  1842.  With  a  short  notice  of  all  his  Works  and  Essays,  from 
original  documents.     By  Theodoiib  Duka.    Post  Sw,  gs. 

[Trtiliiier*!  Oriental  florles. 

Sister  Dora:  A  Biography.  By  Margaret  Lonsdale. 
With  Portrait     TkirtUih  Edition,     Small  %vo,  2s,  6d. 

Philip  Henry  Gosse,  Life  of.  By  his  Son,  Edmund  Gosse. 
8w,  155. 

Julius  and  Mary  Mohl,  Letters  and  Recollections  of.  By 
M.  C.  M.  Simpson.     With  Portraits  and  2  Illustrations.    8w,  15^. 

Charles  Lewder :  A  Biography.  By  the  Author  of  St 
Teresa,     Twelfth  Edition,     With  Portrait.     Crown  8w,  31.  6d, 

William  Ellis,  Founder  of  the  Birkbeck  Schools,  Life  of.  By 
E.  Kell  Blyth.     Second  Edition.    Svo,  14s. 

Henry  Bradshaw  :  A  Memoir.     By  G.  W.  Prothero.    With 

Portrait  and  Facsimile.     Svo,  i6s, 

Memoirii  of  Arthur  Hamilton,  B.A.,  of  Trinity  College,  Cam- 
bridge.    Crown  8w,  6s, 

Mrs.  Gilbert :  Autobiography,  and  other  Memorials.  Edited 
by  JosiAH  Gilbert.     Fifth  Edition,     Crown  8w,  ys,  6d. 

James  Skinner:  A  Memoir.  By  the  Author  of  CharUs 
Lowder,  With  Preface  by  the  Rev.  Canon  Carter,  and  Portrait. 
Large  crown  Svo,  Js.  6d.     Cheap  Edition,     Crown  8w?,  y,  6d. 

Thomas  Davis :  The  Memoirs  of  an  Irish  Patriot  By  Sir  C. 
Gavan  Duffy.    8w,  12s, 

John  Mitchel,  Life  of.     By  W.  Dillon.     With  Portrait. 

2  vols.  Svo,  2 1  J. 

Thomas  Drummond :  Life  and  Letters  of  Thomas  Drummond, 
Under-Secretary  in  Ireland,  1835-40.  By  R.  Barry  O'Brien. 
Svo,  14s, 

Life  of  B.  John  Juvenal  Ancina.  By  Fr.  Charles  Henry 
Bowden.    Svo,  gs. 

A  Nun :  Her  Friends  and  Her  Order.  Being  a  Sketch  of 
the  Life  of  Mother  Mary  Xaveria  Fallon.  By  Katharine  Tynan. 
Crown  Svo,  ^s. 

The  Last   Colonel  of  the  Lrish  Brigade,  Count  O'Connell, 

and   Old   Irish   Life  at   Home  and  Abroad,   1745-1833.      By  Mrs. 
Morgan  J.  O'Connell.    2  vols.  Svo,  25^. 

Diaries  of  Sir  Daniel  Gooch,  Bart.  With  an  Introductory 
Notice  by  Sir  Theodore  Martin,  K.C.B.  With  2  Portraits  and 
an  Illustration.     Croivn  Svo,  6j. 


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Mrs.  Richard  Trendi,  Remains  of  the  late,  being  Selections 
from  her  Journals,  Letters,  and  other  papers.  Edited  by  her  son, 
Archbishop  Trench.    New  and  cheaper  Edition.    With  Portraits, 

Biographical  Sketchea  By  C.  Kegan  Pauu  Crown  87/^, 
7J.  6rf. 

Maria  Dmmmond :  A  Sketch.    Post  Svo,  2s. 

Oonfessio  Viatoris.    Pcqfi.  Svo,  2s. 

Biographical  Lectures.  By  George  Dawson.  Edited  by 
George  St.  Clair.     Third  Edition.    Large  crown  9vo,  yj.  6d, 

Brave  Men's  Footsteps :  A  Book  of  Example  and  Anecdote 
for  young  people.  By  the  editor  of  Men  who  have  Risen,  Illustra- 
tions by  C  Doyle.     Ninth  Edition,     Crown  8w,  2s,  6d, 

Well-spent  Lives:  A  Series  of  Modern  Biographies.  By 
Herbert  Edmonds.    A^ew  and  cheaper  Edition,    Crown  8w,  3J.  6d, 

Episodes  in  the  Lives  of  Men,  Women,  and  Lovers.     By 

Edith  Simcox.     Crown  Svo,  p.  6d, 

From  World  to  Oloister ;  or,  My  Novitiate.  By  'Bernard.' 
Crown  Svo,  5J. 


WORKS  ON  EDUCATION. 

Educational  Theories,  Introduction  to  the  History  of.  By 
Oscar  Browning.    Second  Edition.    35.  6d.    [Education  Library. 

Education  as  a  Science.     By  Alex.  Bain.    Seventh  Edition. 

Crown  Svo,  ^s.  [L  8.  8. 

Education,  Scientific  and  Technical ;  or,  How  the  Inductive 
Sciences  are  taught,  and  how  they  ought  to  be  taught.  By  Robert 
Galloway.    8w^?,  loj.  6d. 

Industrial  Education.    By  Sir  Philip  Magnus.    6^. 

[Edacatlon  Library. 

The  Education  of  Girls ;  and  The  Employment  of  Women 
of  the  Upper  Classes  educationally  considered.  By  W.  B.  Hodgson. 
Second  Edition.     Crown  Svo,  y.  6d. 

Women  and  Work :  An  Essay  on  the  Higher  Education  of 
Girls.     By  Emily  Pfeiffer.     Crown  Svo,  6s. 

School  Management :  Including  a  General  View  of  the  Work 
of  Education,  Organisation,  and  Discipline.  By  Joseph  Landon. 
Seventh  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  6s,  [£<laoatlO]i  Library. 


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Home  Edncation :  A  course  of  Lectures  to  Ladies.  By 
Charlottb  M.  Mason.     Crown  Sva,  y.  6d, 

Old  Greek  Education.  By  Professor  Mahaffy.  Second 
Edition,    y.  6d,  [Edacatlon  Litaraxy. 

Education  of  the  Human  Race,  from  the  German  of  Gott- 
HOLD  Ephraim  Lessing.   By  F.  W.  Robertson.  Fcap,  $w,  2s,  6d, 

Public  Schools,  Our :  Eton,  Harrow,  Winchester,  Rugby, 
Westminster,  Marlborough,  and  the  Charterhouse.     Crowft  8zv,  6s, 

Freedom  in  Science  and  Teaching.  By  Professor  Ernst 
Hakckei-  With  a  Prefatory  Note  by  Professor  T.  H.  Huxley. 
Crown  Svo,  $s. 

GREEK   AND    LATIN    CLASSiCSi    ETO. 

Homer's  Iliad,  Greek  Text,  with  Translation.  By  J.  G. 
CORDERY.  2  vols.  Svo,  1 4/.  C/iea^  Edition  (translation  only),  Crown 
8w,  $s. 

iEschylus  :  The  Seven  Plays.  Translated  into  English  Verse 
by  Professor  Lewis  Campbell.     Crown  8i»,  yx.  6d. 

Sophocles :  The  Seven  Plays.  Translated  into  English  Verse 
by  Professor  Lewis  Campbell.     Crown  8w,  js,  td, 

Horatius*  Placcus,   Q.,  Opera.     Edited  by  F.  A.  Cornish. 

With  Frontispiece.  Eitcvir  Zvo  (Parchment  Librai/),  vellum^  fs,  6»/.; 
parchment  or  clothy  6s, 

Pliny.  The  Letters  of  Pliny  the  Younger.  Translated  by 
J.  D.  Lewis.    Post  Svo,  jss. 

lAry.  Discourses  on  the  First  Decade  of  Titus  Livius. 
From  the  Italian  of  Niccol6  Maciuavelli.  By  N.  Hill  Thomp- 
SON.     Lar^e  crown  SzHf,  I2s. 

Philological  Introduction  to  Greek  and  Latin  for  Students. 

Translated  and  adapted  from  the  Cjerman  by  C.  Kegan  Paul  and  E. 
D.  Stone.     Third  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  6s, 

Plutarch:  His  Life,  his  Lives,  and  his  Morals.  By  Arch- 
BISHOP  Trench.     Second  Edition  enlarged,     Fcap,  8cv,  y.  6d, 

WORKS   ON    MILITARY   SCIENCE. 

Tactics— Elements  of  Modem  Tactics,  practically  applied  to 
English  Formations.  By  Lieut. -Col.  Wilkinson  Shaw.  Seventh 
Edition.     With  31  Plates  and  Maps.     Small  crown  8w,  9J. 


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Notes    on   Military  Surveying   and   Reconnaissance.      By 

Lieut-Col.  W.  Paterson.     With  16  Plates.     8w,  'js.  6rf. 
Tactics. — Minor  Tactics.    By  Gen.  C.  Francis  Clery.  With 

26  Maps  and  Plans.     Eleventh  Edition,  revised.     Crown  Svo,  gs, 

Pield  Artillery:  Its  Equipment,  Organisation,  and  Tactics. 
By  Lieut. -Colonel  Pratt.     Fourth  Edition,    Small  crown  ^o,  6s, 

Field  Works:  Their  Technical  Construction  and  Tactical 
Application.  By  Major-General  Brackbnbury.  2twls,  Small 
crown  Svo,  lis. 

Field    Training,    System   of.      By  Major  C.   K.   Brooke. 

Small  crown  Svo,  cloth  limp,  2s, 

Oavalry   in    Modem   War.      By    Major-General   Trench. 

Small  crown  Svo,  6s, 

Oavalry  Tactics,  Organisation,  etc.,  Notes  on.  By  a  Cavalry 
Officer.    With  Diagrams.     Svo,  12s, 

Defence  and  Attack  of  Positions  and  Localities.     By  Col. 

H.  SCHAW.     Fourth  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  is,  6d, 

Military  Law:  Its  Procedure  and  Practice.  By  Lieut- 
Col.  Pratt.     Seventh  Revised  Edition,    Small  crown  Svo,  4J.  6d, 

Military  Administration,  Elements  ofl    By  Major  Buxton. 

First  Part :    Permanent  System  of  Administration.      Small  crown 
Svo,  Js.  6d, 

Military  Tribunals.  By  Lieut.-Col.  C.  F.  Colvile.  Crown 
Svo,  sewed,  zr.  6d. 

Military  Sketching  and  Beconnaissance.  By  Col.  Hutchin- 
son and  Major  Macgregor.  Fifth  Edition,  With  16  Plates. 
Small  crown  Svo,  45. 

Modem  War.  Translated  by  C.  W.  Foster.  Part  I. 
Strategy,  and  Atlas  of  64  Plates.  Svo,  £1,  l6s.  Part  IL  Grand 
Tactics,  I5J. 

Officer's  Memorandum  Book  for  Peace  and  War.  By  Col. 
R.  Harrison.  Fourth  Edition,  revised.  Oblong  S2mo,  red  basU, 
with  pencil,  35.  6d, 

Preliminary  Tactics.  An  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  War. 
For  the  use  of  Junior  Officers,  By  Major  Eden  Baker,  R.A. 
Crown  Svo,  6s, 

Tactical  Questions  and  Answers  on  the  InfiEkntry  Drill  Book, 

1892.     Compiled  by  Captain  H.  R.  Gat.k     Third  Edition,    Crown 
Svo,  IS,  6d, 

The   British  Army  and  onr   Defensive  Position  in  1892. 

Founded  on  Speeches  and  Memoranda  and  on  Parliamentary  Papers 
and  Returns.    With  a  Preface  by  the  Right  Hon.  E.  Stanhope, 
M.P.,  Secretary  of  State  for  War.     Crown  Svo,  is, 
D 


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5o         Kegan  Paul,  Trench,  Triibner,  and  Co/s 


BOTANY  AND    NATURAL   HISTORY. 

Origin   of  Floral   Stractores    througli   Insect   and    other 

Agencies.  By  Professor  G.  Henslow.  With  88  Illustnilions. 
Crvwn  ^00 i  55;  [L  B.  8. 

Origin  of  Onltivated  Plants.    By  Alphonss  de  Candolle. 

Second  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  Ss.  [L  S.  8. 

British  Discomycetes,  Manual  of    With  Descriptions  of  all 

the  Species  of  Fungi  hitherto  found  in  Britain  included  in  the  family, 
and  with  Illustrations  of  the  Genera.  By  W.  Phillips.  Crvwn 
Svo,  5J.  [L  a.  8. 

Fungi:  their  Nature,  .Influences,  and  Uses.  By  M.  C 
Cooks.  Edited  by  M.  J.  Berkeley.  With  numerous  Illustrations. 
FourtA  Edition.     Crown  Svo,  5j.  [L  8.  8. 

British  Bdible  Fungi ;  How  to  Distinguish  and  How  to  Cook 
Them.  With  Coloured  Figures  of  upwards  of  Forty  Species.  Crown 
Svo,  7s,  6d. 

Fresh  Water  Alga,  Introdnction  to.  With  an  Enumeration 
of  all  the  British  Species.  By  M.  C  Cooke.  With  13  Plates. 
Crown  ^0,  5J.  [L  8.  8. 

Botany,  First  Book  of  Designed  to  Cultivate  the  Observing 
Powers  of  Children.  By  Eliza  A.  Youmans.  With  300  lUustia- 
tions.    New  and  cheaper  Edition,     Crown  8zv,  2s,  6d, 

The  Oak:  A  Popular  Introduction  to  Forest  Botany.  By 
H.  Marshall  Ward.    Crown  Svo,  2s,  6d.    {Modem  Science  Series.) 

Bambles  and  Adventures  of  our  School  Field  Olub.    By  G. 

Christopher  Davies.  With  4  lUustrations.  New  and  cheaper 
Edition,     Crown  %vo^  y,  6cL 

Homy  Sponges,  Monograph  of  the.     By  R.  von  Lenden- 

rELD.    With  50  Plates.     Issued  by  direction  of  the  Royal  Society. 

Microbes,  Ferments,  and  Moulds.     By  £.  L.  Trouessart. 

With  107  Illustrations.     5^.  [L  8.  S. 

The  Orayflsh :  An  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  Zoology.  By 
Professor  T.  H.  Huxley.     With  82  lUustrations.    Fifth  EdUion. 

Crown  SvOf  $s,  [I.  8.  8. 

History  of  Creation,  The.  By  Professor  Ernst  Haeckel. 
Translation  revised  by  Professor  E.  Ray  Lankester.  With 
Coloured  Plates  and  Genealogical  Trees  of  the  yarious  groups  of 
both  Plants  and  Animals.     Third  Edition.     2  vd/s,  post  Svo,  3zr. 

Jelly-Fish,  Star-Fish,  and  SesrUrchins :  Being  a  Research 
on  Primitive  Nervous  Systems.  By  G.  J.  Romanes.  With  lUustra- 
tions.    Second  Edition,     Crown  Szw,  $s.  [L  8.  a 


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The  Horse :  A  Study  in  Natural  History.  By  W.  H.  Flower. 
Crown  8w,  2J.  6d,     {Modem  Science  Series. ) 

Mental  Evolution  in  AnliriailB.  By  G.  J.  Romanes.  With 
Posthumous  Essay  on  Instinct  by  Charles  Darwin.    ^Oy  i2j. 

Animal  Intelligence.     By  G.  J.  Romanes.   Fourth  Edition. 

Crown  8w,  5^.  .  [L  8 .8. 

Descent  and  Darwinism,  Doctrine  of.  By  Professor  O. 
Schmidt.  With  26  Illustrations.  Seventh  Edition.  Crown  $vo, 
SJ.  [L  8.  B. 

Mammalia  in  their  Relation  to  Primeval  Times.  By  O. 
Schmidt.    With  51  Woodcuts.     Crown  8w,  5J.  [I.  S.  8. 

Senses,  Instincts,  and  Intelligence  of  Animals.  With 
special  reference  to  Insects.  By  Sir  John  Lubbock.  With  100 
Illustrations.     TAird  Edition.     Crown  Svo,  $5.  [I.  S.  S. 

Ants,  Bees,  and  Wasps :  A  Record  of  Observations  on  the 
Habits  of  the  Social  Hymenoptera.  By  Sir  J.  Lubbock.  With  $ 
Chromo-lithographic  Illustrations.     Tenth  Edition,     Crown  8z^,  5^. 

[I.  8.  S. 

(Geographical  and  Geological  Distribution  of  Animals.     By 

Professor  A.  Heilprin.    With  Frontispiece.     5j.  [L  S.  B. 

Natural  Conditions  of  Existence  as  they  affect  Animal 
Life.  By  Karl  Semper.  With  2  Maps  and  106  Woodcuts. 
TAird  Edition.     Crown  Svo,  51.  [L  8.  S. 

Oolonrs  of  Animals :  their  Meaning  and  Use,  'especially  con- 
sidered in  the  case  of  Insects.  By  E.  B.  Poulton.  With  Coloured 
Frontispiece  and  66  Illustrations  in  text.        Crown  Svo,  $s.     [L  S.  8. 

Animal  Parasites  and  Messmates.    By  P.  J.  van  Beneden. 

With  83  Illustrations.     Fourth  Edition.     Crown  Szw,  $s.        [L  S.  8. 

Anthropoid  Apes.  By  R.  Hartmann.  With  63  Illus- 
trations.    Crown  8vtf.     Second  Edition.     5^.  [I.  S.  S. 

Birds  of  Cornwall  and  the  Scilly  Islands.     By  £.  H.  Rodd. 

Edited  by  J.  E.  Harting.     With  Portrait  and  Map.     8w,  14s. 

Sonth  African  Butterflies :  A  Monograph  of  the  Extra 
Tropical  Species.  By  Roland  Trimen.  .  With  12  Coloured 
Plates.     3  vo/s.  Svo,  £2,  12s.  6d. 

Taxidermy  and  Zoological  Collecting.    By  W.  T.  Hornabay. 

With  Chapters  on  Collecting  and   Preserving  Insects,  by  W.  J. 
Holland,  D.D.    With  24  Plates  and  85  Illustrations.     Svo,  lor.  6d. 


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Ostriches  and  Ostrich  Fanning.  By  J.  de  Mosenthal  and 
James  E.  Harting.  Second  Edition,  With  8  Full-page 
Illustrations  and  20  Woodcuts.     Royal  $zw,  los.  6d, 

Australian  Birds. — ^Tabular  List  of  all  the  Australian  Birds 
at  present  known  to  the  Author.  By  £.  P.  Ramsay.  Crvum  4io, 
12s,  6d. 


ANTHROPOLOGY. 

Evolution  of  Man,  History  of  the.  By  Professor  Ernst 
Habckbl.    With  numerous  Illustrations.     2  vols,  post  Sz^^,  32;. 

Evolution  in  Man,  Mental :  Origin  of  the  Human  Faculty. 
By  G.  J.  Romanes.    8zv,  14J. 

Origin  of  Human  Reason.     By  St.  George  Mivart.    Zvo^ 

lOf.  (id. 

Development  of  the  Human  Race,  Contributions  to  the 
History  of  the.  Translated  from  the  German  of  Lazarus  Gbiger 
by  D.  Ashbr.    Post  ^o,  6s,  [PhllOBopliioal  Liteaiy. 

The  Human   Species.     By  Professor  A.  de  Quatrefages. 

Fifth  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  Ss,  [L  8.  & 

Primitive  Family,  The :  Its  Origin  and  Development.  By 
C  N.  Starckb.     Crown  8«?,  5j.  [L  S.  S. 

Man  before  Metals.  By  N.  Joly.  With  148  Illustrations. 
Fourth  Edition.     Crown  8w,  5/.  [L  8.  S. 

Australian  Race,  The.  Its  Origin,  Languages,  Customs, 
etc  With  Map  and  Illustrations.  By  Edward  M.  Curr.  3  vols. 
Svo,  I  vol.  4to,  £2,  2s, 

Aborigines  of  Victoria,  The.  By  R.  Brough  Smith.  Com- 
piled for  the  Government.  With  Maps,  Plates,  and  Woodcuts. 
2  vols.    Royal  Svo,  £3,  31. 

Polynesian  Race,  Account  of  the  :  Its  Origin  and  Migrations, 
and  the  Ancient  History  of  the  Hawaiian  people.  By  A.  FoR- 
NANDBR.  Post  Svo.  VoL  I.  7*.  6d. ;  Vol.  II.  loj.  6d. ;  Vol.  III. 
9;.  [PhUoBophical  Uliraiy. 

The  Ice  Age  in  North  America,  and  its  bearing  upon  the 
Antiquity  of  Man.  By  G.  Frederick  Wright,  D.D.  With  Maps 
and  Illustrations.     Bvo,  21s, 

Childhood  of  the  World:  A  Simple  Account  of  Man  in 
Early  Times.  By  Edward  Clodd.  EigMk  Editim,  Crown  te, 
SS.    Spicial  Edition  for  Schools,  ts. 


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Nature  and  Man.    By  W.  £.  Carpenter.    With  a  Memorial 
Sketch  by  J.  EsTLiN  Cakpbntbr.    Portrait   Largt  crown  Svo,  Ss.  6d. 

Five  Senses  of  Han,  The.    By  Professor  Bernstein.    With 
91  Illustrations.    FiftA  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  5/.  [I.  S.  a 

Physical  Expression :  Its  Modes  and  Principles.  By  Professor 
F.  Waknsr.    With  50  Iliustrations.     Crown  ^vo,  5/.  \JL  8.  8. 


PHYSIOLOGY   AND   MEDICINE. 

Mental  Physiology,  Principles  of.     With  their  Applications 

to  the  Training  and  Discipline  of  the  Mind,  and  the  study  of  its 
Morbid  Conditions.  By  W.  B.  Ca&pbntbr.  Illustrated.  Sixth 
Edition,     Stv,  I2s. 

Bodily  Exercise,  Physiology  of.    By  F.  Ijvorange.    Second 

Edition,     Crown  8zw,  5j.  [L  a  8. 

Mnsdes  and  Nerres,  (General  Physiology  o£     By  Professor 

LRosBNTHAL.     Third  Edition,     With  75  Illustrations.     Crown 
,  ss.  [I.  B.  S. 

Physiological  and  Pathological   Ohemistry,   Text-Book  of, 

for  Physicians  and  Students.  Translated  from  the  German  of  Pro- 
fessor G.  Bunge.     By  L.  C  Wooldridgb.     8v^,  idr. 

Surgical  Handicraft:  A  Manual  of  Surgical  Manipulations. 
By  Pyb.  With  233  Illustrations.  Third  Edition  revised.  Crown 
%vOy  I  ox.  6d, 

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of  Dressers  and  Nurses.     By  Pyb.     iZmOy  zs, 

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LOCKBS.     Third  Edition,     Crown  ^uo^  2s,  6d. 

Epidemics  of  the  Middle  Ages,  The.  Translated  from  the 
German  of  J.  F.  C.  Hbckbr.  By  G.  B.  Babington.  Third 
Edition,    809,  9;.  6d. 

Colour  Blindness  and  Colour  Perception.    By  F.  W.  Edridge 

Grbbn.     With  3  Coloured  Plates.     CroTtm  Svo,  5^.  p.  8.  8. 

Nervous  Exhaustion :  its  Causes,  Outcomes,  and  Treatment. 
By  Walter  Tyrrell.    Crown  Svo,  y. 

Ophthalmoscope,  How  to  use  the.     By  Edgar  A  Browne. 

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MENTAL  AND   MORAL   SCIENCE. 

Mind  and  Sody:  The  Theories  of  their  Relations.  By 
Alexander  Bain.  With  Four  Illustrations.  Eighth  EdUion. 
Crown  %vOy  ^s,  [L  8l  A. 

Brain  and  its  Functions,  The :  By  J.  Luys.  With  Illus- 
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physical, Physiological,  and  Pathological  Aspects.  By  H.  Maod- 
SLBY.     ivo,  12S. 

Mental    Disease,    Responsibility    in.      By  H.    Maudsley. 

Fourth  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  $5,  [L  B.  A. 

Snpematnralism. — Natural  Oauses  and  Supernatural  Seem- 

ings.     By  H.  Maudslby.    Second  Edition.     Crown  Stv,  6s, 

Diseases  of  Memory :  An  Essay  in  the  Positive  Psychology. 
By  Professor  Th.  Ribot.   Third  Edition.    Crown  Svo,  ^,      [L  B.  a. 

Heredity:  A  Psychological  Study  of  its  Phenomena,  Laws, 
Causes,  and  Consequences.  By  Professor  Th.  Ribot.  Second 
Edition,    Large  crown  ^o,  gs. 

English  Psychology.    By  Professor  Ribot.  Crown  Svo,  ys,  6d. 
Brain  as  an  Organ  of  Mind.     By  H.  Charlton  Bastian. 

With  numerous  Illustrations.     Fourth  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  $s, 

[Las. 

Ulusions :  A  Psychological  Study.  By  James  Sully.  TAird 
Edition,     Crown  Svo,  Ss,  [L  8.  a 

Colour  Sense :  Its  Origin  and  Development  An  Essay  in 
Comparative  Psychology.  By  Grant  Allbn.  Second  Edition, 
Post  bzfo,  los.  6d,  [PhUosophlcal  Liteuy. 

Ethics. — The  Nicomachean  Ethics  of  Aristotle.    Translated 

by  F.  H.  Pbters.     Third  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  6s, 

EtMcs. — Froehers  Ethical  Teaching:  Two  Essays.  By  M. 
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Ethics. — Moral  Order  and  Progress :  An  Analysis  of  Ethical 
Conceptions.    By  S.  Alexander.    Post  8w,  14J. 

[PliUosopUcal  Utmiy. 

Ethics.— Principles  of  Natural  and  Supernatural  Morals. 
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Logic,  The  Principles  of     By  F.  H.  Bradley.     Svo,  16s. 


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Fallacies :  A  View  of  Logic  from  the  Practical  Side.  By  A. 
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Thonght — ^Natural  History  of  Thought  in  ita  Practical 
Aspect,  from  its  Origin  in  Infancy.  By  George  Wall.  Si^,  izs,  6d. 

Bnicide:  An  Essay  on  Comparative  Moral  Statistics.  By 
Professor  H.  MORSBLU,  Second  Edition,  With  Diagrams.  Crown 
^0,  5J.  [i  8.  a. 

LAW,  POLITICSp  AND  SOCIOLOGY. 

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Rome  :  An  Aid  to  the  Study  of  Scientific  and  Comparative  Juris- 
prudence.   By  Professor  Sheldon  Amos.    Siv,  i6s. 

Science  of  Law.     By  Professor  Sheldon  Amos.      Seventh 

Edition,     Crown  Stfo,  5^.  [Z.  8.  8. 

Legislation,  Theory  of,  as  enunciated  by  Jeremy  Bentham. 
Translated  from  the  French  of  Etibnnb  Dumont  by  R.  Hildrsth. 
FiftA  Edition.    Post  8w,  7s.  6d, 

International  Law,  with  Materials  for  a  Code  of  International 
Law.    By  Professor  Leone  Levi.     Crown  $vo,  51.  [L  8.  8. 

International   Code,    Outlines   of  an.     By  D.  D.  Field. 

Second  Edition,    Royal  Bvo,  £2,  zs. 

Architect's  Legal  Handbook.  By  £.  Jenkins  and  J.  Ray- 
mond.   Fourth  Edition^  revised.     Crown  ^o,  6j. 

Politics,  Science  of.    By  Professor  Sheldon  Amos.     TAird 

Edition,     CroTvn  Svo,  ^s,  [t  8.  8. 

Politics,  Manual  of.  By  G.  G.  Lee.  Smal/  crown  Svo, 
2s.  6d, 

Political  Problems  for  our  Age  and  Country.  By  W.  R. 
Greg.    Svo,  los,  6d. 

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of 'Natural  Selection'  and  *  Inheritance  '  to  Political  Society.  By 
Walter  Bagehot.    Ei^^Ath  Edition,     Crown  &vo,  Ss,         [L  8.  8. 

The  Statesman.     By  Sir  H.  Taylor.    Fca^,  8w,  $s.  6d. 

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Barrister-at-Law.     Second  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  6s,  6d, 

Trade  Marks;  their  Registration  and  Protection.  By  J.  S, 
Salaman.     Crotvn  8v^,  %s. 


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Tlie  Modem  Factory  SyBtem.  By  R.  Whateley  Cooke 
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cloth^  IS,  6d,  ;  paper  covers ^  is. 

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Peel  and  O'Oonnell.  By  the  Right  Hon.  G.  Shaw  Lefevre. 
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Davitt.     Crown  Svo,  5^. 

Parliamentary  Reform,  Essays  on     By  Walter  Bagehot. 

Crown  Szw,  ^s. 

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Lombard  Street :  A  Description  of  the  Money  Market.  By 
Walter  Bagehot.    Ninth  Edition.     Crown  Svo,  7s.  6d. 

Depredation  of  Silver,  On  the,  and  Topics  connected  with 
it.    By  Walter  Bagehot.    Svo,  5^. 

Money  and  the  Mechanism  of  Exchange.    By  W.  S.  Jevons. 

Eighth  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  y.  [I.  S.  8. 

Study  of  Sociology.     By  Herbert  Spencer.     Ftmrt^enth 

Edition.     Crown  Svo,  Ss.  [L  8.  8. 

Socialism:  Its  Nature,  its  Dangers,  and  its  Remedies  con- 
sidered.   By  M.  Kaufmann.     Crown  Svo,  ys.  6d. 

Christian  Socialism   By  M.  KAUFMANri.    Crown  Svo,  4s.  6d. 

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Scientific  Meliorism,  and  the  Evolution  of  Happiness.  By 
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The  Social  Problem,  in  its  Economic,  Moral,  and  Political 
Aspects.    By  William  Graham.    ^0,  i^r. 

Wliat  Social  Glasses  Owe  to  eacli  Other.  By  W.  G. 
Sumner.     iSpio,  y,  6d. 

Oapital  and  Wages.    By  Francis  Minton.    Svo,  i^s. 

Welfare  of  the    Millions.     By  Francis  Minton.      Crown 

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Principles  of  Political  Economy.  By  Arthur  Latham 
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Progress  and  Poverty:  An  Inquiry  into  the  Causes  of 
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Protection  or  Free  Trade :  An  Examination  of  the  Tariff 
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George.  Second  Edition.  Crown  Sv^,  5^.  C/ieap  Edition,  limp 
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Trade  Unions:  Their  Origin,  Objects,  and  Efficacy.  By 
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Marriage  and  Kinship,  Development  of  By  C.  Staniland 
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important  Family  Degenerations.  By  S.  A.  K.  Strahan.  Crown 
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The   Distribution  of  the  Produce.      By  James  C.  Smith. 

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58         Kegan  Paul,  Trench,  Triibner,  and  Co/s 

WORKS  ON   THE   PHYSICAL   SCIENCES, 
MINERALOGY,  GEOLOGY,    Eto. 

Modem  Physics,    Ooncepts   and   Theories   ot      By  J.   B. 

Stallo.     7%ird  Edtiion,     Crown  8tv,  $s,  [L  a.  8. 

Exact  Sciences,  Oommon  Sense  of  the.     By  W.  K.  Clifford. 

Swond  EdiHon,    With  loo  Figures.     Crown  itfo,  ss,  [L  8.  & 

Atomic  Theory,  The.  By  Professor  Wurtz.  Translated  by 
£.  Clbminshaw.    Fifth  Edition.     Crown  ^do,  $s,  |[L  8.  8. 

Oonservation  of  Energy.      By  Balfour  Stewart.      With 

14  Illustrations.    Sevmth  Edition,     Crown  8w,  5^.  [L  8.  8. 

Electricity,  The  Modem  Applications  of  By  £.  Hos- 
PITALIBR.  Translated  and  enlarged  by  Julius  Maibr,  Ph.  D.  Second 
Edition^  revised,  with  many  additions  and  numerous  Illnstrations. 
2  vols,  ivo,  255. 

The  Telephone,  the  Microphone,  and  the  Phonograph.  By 

Count  Du  Moncel.     With   74  Illustrations.      TAird  Edition. 
Small  8w,  5j. 

Electricity  in  Daily  life :  A  Popular  Account  of  its  Applica- 
tion to  Every  day  Uses.    With  125  Illustrations.    Square  809,  9;. 

Ohemistry  of  the  Oarbon  Oomponnds ;  or,  Organic  Chemistry. 
By  Professor  Victor  von  Richter.  Authorised  Translation  by 
Edgar  F.  Smith.  Second  American  Edition  from  Sixth  German 
Editum,     Crown  Svo,  20s, 

Text-Book  of  Inorganic  Ohemistry.  By  Professor  Victor 
VON  RiCHTER.  Authorised  Translation  by  Edgar  F.  Smith.  Third 
American  Edition  from  Fifth  German  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  &r.  6d. 

Ohemistry.— Text-Book  of  Organic  Ohemistry.  By  Adolph 
Streckbr.  Edited  by  Professor  Wislicenus.  Translated  and 
edited,  with  extensive  additions,  by  W.  R.  Hodgkinson  and  A.  J. 
Greenaway.    Second  and  ehcaj>er  Edition.    Svo,  I2J.  6d. 

Ohemistry  of  Light  and  Photography.     By  Dr.  Hermann 

Vogel.    With  100  Illustrations.    Fifth  Edition,     Crown  Szv,  5^. 

[L8a 

New  Ohemistry.  By  Professor  J.  P.  Cooke.  With  31 
Illustrations.    Ninth  Editiom     Crown  Szv,  5^.  [I.  8  8 

Lahoratory  Practice :  A  Series  of  Experiments  on  the  Funda- 
mental Principles  of  Chemistry.  By  Professor  J.  P.  Cookb.  Crown 
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Meteorology. — ^Weather :  A  Popular  Exposition  of  the  Nature 
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Abercrobcby.  With  96  Illustrations.  Second  Edition,  Crown 
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Meteorology,  Elementary.  By  Robert  H.  Scott.  Fourth 
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The  Sun.  By  Professor  Young.  With  Illustrations.  TTiird 
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Ooioor :   A  Text-Book  of  Modem  OhromaticB.    By  Ogden 

N.  Rood.    With  130  Original  Illustrations.     Third  Edition.    Crown 
Zvo,  Ss.  [L  8.  8. 

Spectrom  Analysis,  Studies  in.    By  J.  Norman  Lockyer. 

With  Six  Photographic  Illustrations  of  Spectra,  and  numerous  Engrav- 
ings on  Wood.     Fourth  Edition,     Crown  8zv,  6x.  6</.  [I.  8.  8. 

Lights  Nature  of.  By  Dr.  Eugene  Lommel.  With  a  General 
Account  of  Physical  Optics.  188  Illustrations,  and  a  Table  of 
Spectra  in  Chromo-lithography.    Fifth  Edition,     Crown  8cv,  5^. 

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132  Illustrations.     Crown  Svo,  $s,  [I.  8.  8. 

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TECHNOLOGY. 

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Theoretical  Mechanics:  A  Manual  of  the  Mechanics  of 
Engineering.  Designed  as  a  Text-book  for  Technical  Schools,  and 
for  the  use  of  Engineers.  From  the  German  of  Julius  Wbisbach. 
By  E.  B.  COXB.     With  902  Woodcuts.     8w,  311.  6d. 

Amateur  Mechanic's  Workshop:  Plain  and  Concise  Direc- 
tions for  the  Manipulation  of  Wood  and  Metals.  By  the  Author 
of '  The  Lathe  and  its  Uses.'    SixtA  Edition,     Illustrated.     ^0^  6f. 

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Turning  Wood  and  Metal.   Sixth  Edition,    Illustrated.   800,  \os,  6d, 

Meehanic's  Friend,  The:  A  collection  of  Receipts  and 
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ing, Dyes,  Electricity,  Gilding,  Glass- working,  etc  By.  W.  E.  A 
Axon.     Second  Edition,    Numerous  Woodcuts.     Crewti  %vo,  3^.  6d, 

Amongst  Machines :  A  Description  of  Various  Mechanical 
Appliances  used  in  the  Manufacture  of  Wood,  Metal,  etc.  A  book 
for  bo>'s.  By  J.  LUKIN.  Third  Edition.  With  64  Engravings. 
Crown  SvOy  3r.  6d, 

Boy  Engineers,  The :  What  They  Did,  and  How  They  did 
it.  A  book  for  boys.  By  J.  LUKIN.  With  30  Engravings. 
Third  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  y.  6d, 

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tions for  the  Use  of  all  kinds  of  Tools,  and  for  the  Construction  of 
Steam  Engines  and  Mechanical  Models.  By  J.  LUKIN.  Seventh 
Edition,     With  70  Engravings.     Crown  Svo,  y,  6d, 

Mannal  of  the  Steam  Engine.  For  Engineers  and  Technical 
Schools.  Parts  I.  and  IL  By  Professor  R.  H.  Thurston.  Royal 
Svo,  sis,  6d,  each  Part. 

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Hydraulics  :  The  Flow  of  Water  through  Orifices,  over  Weirs, 
and  through  Open  Conduits  and  Pipes.  By  Hamilton  Smith. 
With  17  Plates.     Royal  quarto,  30r. 

Fuel,  Treatise  on,  Scientific  and  Practical.  By  Robert 
Galloway.    With  lUustmtions.    Post  ^00,  6s. 

Telegraphy. — Instructions  for  Testing  Telegraph  Lines.    By 

Louis    SCHWENDLER.      2  VOls.  Svo,  21S. 

Nautical  Tables :  Designed  for  the  Use  of  British  Seamen. 
By  James  Inman.    JVinv  EdUioHy  Revised  and  EntargteL    Szw,  \6s. 

Domestic  Sanitary  Drainage  and   Plumbing.      By  W.   R. 

MaGUIRE.      ^OOy  I2J. 

Milk  Analysis :  A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Examination  ot 
Milk  and  its  Derivatives,  Cream,  Butter,  and  Cheese.  By  J.  A. 
Wanklyn.     Second  Edition,     Crown  8w,  5^. 

Tea,  Ooffee,  and  Oocoa :  A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Analysis 
of  Tea,  Coffee,  Cocoa,  Chocolate,  and  Mat^  (Paraguay  tea).  By 
J.  A.  Wanklyn.     Crown  ^zw,  Ss. 

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Flour  and  Bread.  By  J.  A.  Wanklyn  and  W.  J.  Cooper.  Crown 
Svo,  5j. 

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Crown  SvOf  51. 

Wat^  Analysis  :  A  Treatise  on  the  Examination  of  Potable 
Water.  By.  J.  A.  Wanklyn  and  E.  T.  Chapman.  Eighth  Edition, 
Crown  Svo,  $s. 

Fermentation,  On.  By  Professor  Schutzenberger.  With 
28  Illustrations.   Fourth  Edition,    Crown  Svo,  5^.  [L  8.  8. 

Brewing — Ohemistry  in  the  Brewing  Boom :  A  Course  of 
Lessons  to  Practical  Brewers.     By  C.  H.  Piessb.     Ecap,  Buo,  Ss. 

Pyrology;  or.  Fire  Chemistry,    By  Lieut.-Col.  W.  A.  Ross. 

Sffiail  4to,  36J. 

Sugar  Analysis.  For  Refineries,  Sugar-Houses,  Experimental 
Stations,  &c    By  G.  Ferdinand  Wibckmann.    8w.  los.  6d. 

Blowpipe  Analysis,  Alphabetical  Manual  of.    By  Lieut.-CoL 

W.  A.  Ross.     Crown  Svo,  Sj.  , 

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Pure  Fertilisers,  and  the  Chemical  Conversion  of  Rock 
Guanos,  etc. ,  into  various  valuable  products.   By  Campbell  Morfit. 

Photography. — Preparation  of  Drawings   for   Photographic 

Reproduction.     By.  Col.  J.  Waterhouse.     With  Plates.     Crvwn 

Mathematics.— Lectures  on  the  Ikosahedron,  and  the  Solution 
of  Equations  of  the  Fifth  Degree.  By  Felix  Klein.  Translated 
by  G.  G.  MoRRiCE.    Svo,  los,  6d. 

Mathematical  Drawing  Instruments,  and  how  to  use  them. 
By  F.  Edward  Hulme.  With  Illustrations.  Tkird  Edition, 
Imperial  iSmo,  js,  6d. 

Electro-Ohemical   Analysis.     By  Edgar  F.  Smith.     With 

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ART   AND   MUSIC. 

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Elsevir  Szh>  (Parchment  Library).  Vellum,  p.  6d, ;  parchment  or 
cloth,  &s. 

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John   Leech:  Artist  and  Humourist      By  F.  G.   Kitton. 

iSmo,  is, 

George  Cruikshank,  Essay  on  the  Genius  of.      By  W.  M. 

Thackeray.     Reprinted  verbatim  from  the  Westminster  Review, 
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[PUlOBopbical  Ulxrary. 

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Music  and  Action;  or,  The  Elective  Affinity  between 
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Organ  Stops,  Explanation  o(  with  Hints  for  Effective  Com- 
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POETRY   AND   BELLES-LETTRES. 

Poetical  Works  of  Lewis  Morris.   Nero)  and  Cheaper  Ediiion, 
5  vols,  fcap,  Svo,  $s,  each. 

Songs  of  Two  Worlds.     Thirteenth  Edition, 

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Owen  and  Tlie  Ode  of  LUiBi    Seventh  Edition, 

Songs  Unsung  and  Oyda.    Fifth  Edition, 

Songs  of  Britain.     Third  Edition, 

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Poetical  Works  of  Lewis  Morris — Continued, 

The  Splo  <tf  HadM.  With  16  Autotype  Illustrations,  after  the 
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leaves,  21s, 

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Birthday  Booki     Edited  by  S.   S.   Copeman.     With  Frontispiece. 

22mo,  cloth  extra,  gilt  edges,  2s, ;  cloth  limp,  is.  6d. 
A  Vision  of  Saints.    Fcap.  Svo,  dr. 

Poetical  Works  of  Sir   Edwin  Arnold.   Uniform  Edition. 

comprising  The  Light  of  Asia,  Indian  Poetry,  Pearls  of  the  Faith, 

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In  My  Lady's  Praise.     Poems  old  and  new,  written  to  the  honour  of 

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Indian  Idylls,  from  the  Sanskrit  of  the  Mah&bhdrata.   Crown  Svo,  *js.  6d. 
Indian  Poetry,  containing  the  Indian  Song  of  Songs  from  the  Sanskrit, 

two  books  from  the  Iliad  of  India,  and  other  Oriental  poems  (O.  S.)- 

Fifth  Edition,  7s,  6d. 
Lotus  and  Jewel   Containing  In  an  Indian  Temple,  A  Casket  of  Gems, 

A  Queen's  Revenge,  with  other  poems.     Second  Edition.     Crown 

Svo,  7s.  6d, 
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Poems,  National  and  Non-Oriental:  with  some  new  pieces.     Crown 

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Teaching  of  Gautama.     Presentation  Edition.    With    Illustrations 

and  Porti-ait.     Small  4/^,  2if.     Library  Edition^  crown  Svo,  *js.  6d. 

Elzemr  Edition,  6s.     Cheap  Edition  (Lotos  Series),  cloth  or  half - 

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The  Secret  of  Death :  being  a  version  of  the  Katha  Upanishad,  from 
the  Sanskrit.     Third  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  *is,  6d. 

The  Song  Celestial;  or,  Bhagavad-Git&,  from  the  Sanskrit.  Second 
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The  Works  of  William  Sbakspeire— Continued. 

A  Naur  Vailonmi  Edition  of  Sliakespeaze.  Edited  by  Horace 
Howard  Furness.  Vol.  i,  *  Romeo,*  VoL  ii.  *  Macbeth/  Vols.  m. 
and  IV.  *  Hamlet,'  Vol.  v.  'Lear,'  VoL  vi.  'Othello,*  Vol.  vii. 
*  Merchant  of  Venice,'  Vol.  viii.  «As  You  Like  It.'     iSs.  ea^h  vol. 

Bonsots.  Edited  by  Edward  Dowden.  With  Frontispiece.  Elzevir 
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Index  to  Bhakespeare'B  Works.    By  E.  O'Connor.    Crvwn  %vo,  51. 

BliakeBpeare  Classloal  Dictionary ;  or,  Mythological  Allusions  in  the 
Plays  of  Shakespeare  explained.     By  H.  M.  Selby.     Fcap.  8w»,  is. 

Shakspero:  a  Critical  Study  of  his  Mind  and  Art  By  Edward 
Dowden.    Ninth  Edition.    Zuirge  post  %z>Oy  12s. 

Bhakospeare,  and  other  Lectures.  By  George  Dawson.  Edited  by 
George  St.  Clair.    Large  crown  Svo,  ys.  6d. 

The  Poetical  Works  of  John  Milton.     2  vols.  Elzevir  %vo. 

(Parchment  Library).     Vellum^  Ts.  6d.  ;  Parchment  or  cloth,  6j. 

Sonnets.  Edited  by  Mark  Pattison.  With  Portrait  Elzanr  %oo 
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(hiucer's   Oanterbury  Tales.     Edited  by  A.  W.  Poli^rd- 

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Canterbury  Chimes;  or,  Chaucer  Tales  retold  to  Children.  By  F. 
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Manuscript.     Third  Edition.     Fcap.  Svo,  3J.  6d. 

Poems  of  P.  B.  Shelley.  Edited  by  Richard  Garnett. 
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Selected   Poems    of   Matthew  Prior.      Edited  by  Austin 

DOBSON.      Elzevir  Svo  (Parchment   Library.)      Vellum,  ys.   6d.  ; 
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Works  of  Sir  Henry  Taylor.     5  vols,  crown  Svo,  $os, 
Pbilip  Taa  Arte^elde.    Fcap.  Svo,  p.  6d, 
The  Virgin  Widow,  etc    Fcap.  8tv,  3^.  6d. 

The  Poems  of  Ebenezer  Elliott.  Edited  by  his  son,  the 
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Poems  by  W.  Onlleii  Bryant.    Cheap  Edition,  Small  ^vo^  $s.  6d. 

Poems  of  Edgar  Allan  Poe.  Edited  by  Andrew  Lang. 
With  Frontispiece.  Elzevir  Svo  (Parchment  Library).  Vellum, 
7s.  6d,  ;  Parchment  or  cloik,  6s. 

The  Bayen:  with  Commentary  by  John  H.  Ingram.     Crown  8w,. 
parchment,  6s. 

Poems  by  Archbishop  Trench.  Tenfh  Edition.  Fcap.  %vo^ 
7J.  6d.     Library  Edition.     2  vols,  small  Svo,  los. 

Sacred  Latin  Poetry,  chiefly  Lyrical.  By  Archbishop  Trench. 

Third  Edition.     Corrected  and  Improved.     Ecap.  Svo,  7s. 

Household  Book  of  English  Poetry.  Edited  by  Archbishop 
Trench.     Fourth  Edition^  revised.     Extra /cap.  Svo,  ^s. 

English  Verse.   Edited  by  W.  J.  Linton  and  R.  H.  Stoddard. 

5  z'ols.  crorvn  Sv^,  5^.  each. 

Ghanoer  to  Bnme.    Traiulations.    Lyrice  of  the  Nineteenth  Century. 
Dramatic  Scenes  and  Characters.     Ballads  and  Romances. 

Bare  Poems  of  the  Sixteenth  and  Seventeenth  Oenturies. 

Edited  by  W.  J.  Linton.     Crown  Svo,  51. 

English  Lyrics.  Elzevir  Svo  (Parchment  Library).  Vellum, 
ys.  6d. ;  Parchment  or  cloth,  6s. 

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Selected  Poems  of  Bobert  Bums.  With  an  Introduction  by 
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English  Odes.  Edited  by  E.  Gosse.  With  Frontispiece. 
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Living  English  Poets.  With  Frontispiece.  By  Walter 
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Breitmann  Ballads.  By  C.  G.  Leland.  Only  Complete 
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Europe.     Crown  8w,  6j.     Another  Edition  (Lotos  Series),  3^.  6^. 

Gaudeamns :  Humorous  Poems  from  the  German  of  Joseph 
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i6/F/i7,  3  J.  dd. 

Pidgin-English  Sing-Song;  or,  Songs  and  Stories  in  the 
China- English  dialect.    Second  Edition,    By  C.  G.  Leland.    Crown 

Svo,  $s. 

Ballades  in  Blue  Ghina.     By  Andrew  Lang.  Elzevir  Sifo,  $s. 

Rhymes  d  La  Mode.  By  Andrew  Lang.  With  Frontispiece 
By  E.  A.  Abbey.     Second  Edition,    Elzevir  Svo,  5j. 

Poems  of  Rural  Life  in  the  Dorset  Dialect.     By  William 

Barnes.     New  Edition,     Crown  Svo,  6s, 

Old  World  Idylls,  and  Other  Verses.  By  Austin  Dobson. 
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At  the  Sign  of  the  Lyre.      By  Austin  Dobson.    Elzevir 

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The  Christian  Year.  By  J.  Keble.  With  Portrait.  Elzevir 
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The  Poems  of  Wilfrid  Scawen  Blunt. 
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BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

Periodical  Literatnre,  Index  to.    By  W.  F.  Pools.     Third 

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American  Literature,    Tnibner's  Bibliographical  Guide  to. 

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Dictionaries  and  Grammars^  Triibner's  Catalogue  of  Dic- 
tionaries and  Grammars  of  the  Principal  Languages  and  Dialects  of 
the  World.     Second  Edition,     Svo,  $s. 

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of  Library  Economy.  By  Edward  Edwards.  Numerous  Illustra- 
tions.    2  vols.  Royal  $vo,  £2,  Ss, 

Libraries  and  Founders  of  Libraries.  By  Edward  Ed- 
wards.   $vo,  iSs. 

Free  Town  Libraries:  Their  Formation,  Management,  and 
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Edwards.    8zv,  21s. 

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Thomas.     CroTvn  Svo,  los,  6d. 

Egypt  and  the  Soudan,  The  Literature  of:  A  Bibliography, 
comprising  Printed  Books,  Periodical  Writings,  and  Papers  of 
Learned  Societies.  Maps  and  Charts,  Ancient  Papyri  Manuscripts, 
Drawings,  etc.    By  H.  H.  Prince  Ibrahim  Hilmy.    2  vols,  demy 

Bibliography  of  Alchemy. — Idves  of  Alchemystical  Philo- 
sophers. With  a  Bibliography  of  Alchemy.  By  A.  E.  Waite. 
^0,  I  or.  6d, 

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1881.      I2J. 


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The  CtonntesB  of  Pembroke's  Arcadia.  Written  by  Sir  Philip 
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Facsimile,  with  Bibliographical  Introduction.     Edited  by  H.  Oskar 

SOMMER. 

Thackeray,    Bibliography    of.      Sultan    Stork,    and    other 

Stories  and  Sketches,  1829-44,  now  first  collected.     To  which  is 
added  the  Bibliography  of  Thackeray.     Large  Svo,  lar.  6d, 

Antiquarian  Magazine  and  Bibliographer,  The.  Edited  by 
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8w,  £s  net, 

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GASTRONOMY  AND  DIET,  CHESS  MANUALS, 
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