TO
^VAR MEMORIES
OF
I'ORT MONROE AND VICINIT^r
i|^^
CoNTAIiNii\''Li AN ACCOUNT OF THE M.EMORABLE
Rattle Between the "Merrimac" and
"/vlonitor, the i ncai^cehation of
^EFFEJ\fiON Davis, and Qther
yopics OF Interest Pon-
CERNING the |^0£^T AND
EIGHBORHOOD.
!;v
H. K.W.PATTERSON,
S-R.-,rwT !', \TTT-RY "A'' TniRn Airri'.i.FRV.
\'{)<)L c- DEUSCHLE.
i 'iLXii.:: UBIJSHEKS.
I 'opt* Monroe. Vih<;ima.
-i
BTX?. NO. 5'o If
r W YORK I
. :-J0
Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1885, by 11. K. W. Patter,
son, Jolin M. Pool, and Gottlieb Deusdile, in the office of the Librarian
of Congress, at Washington D- C-, Ai'ril 1885.
NOTICE TO T PI E PUBLIC
0
<0
The information contained in this book concerning Hamp-
ton, National Military Home, and The Hampton Normal and
Agricultural Institute, etc., which we were kindly permitted
to use by Mr. C. W. Betts, Manager of the Normal School
Press, was taken from his "Visitors Hand Book of Old Point
Comfort and Vicinity," which is a copyrighted work.
Any publication of a similar character will be contested by
him under the copyright law.
Patterson, Pool & Deuschle,
Publishers.
D E D E (^ A T I 0 N .
: o :
To First Lieutenant Constantine Chase, 3rd Artillery, tor-
inerly Adjutant of the U. S. Artillery School, and under
whose auspices our little work was commenced, this book
is respectfully dedicated by
The Author.
PREFACE.
: o:
In presenting this little work to the Public, the author has
endeavored to give an answer to questions, which have been
constantly asked by visitors to the Fort, concerning its extent,
area, armament, and a hundred different points, which we
have endeavored to elucidate.
We are indebted to several sources for our information, to
all of whom we are grateful, but we wish particularly to ex-
press our appreciation of the valuable information concern-
ing. The National Soldiers' Home, Hampton Normal
and Agricultural Inslitute, and Hampton, gleaned from the
Guide Book compiled by G. W. Betts, Esq., the gentlemanly
and accommodating Manager of the Normal School Press.
To him. and one other source, Lieut. Gol. John H, Graven, U.
S. A., the Medical attendant of Jefferson Daxis, we would
especially return thanks.
We send this book forth to the public,' and bespeak for it a
generous patronage. Should we succeed in satisfying the
want it is intended to supply, its author's object will have
been accomplished.
H. K. W. P.
ACROSTIC
■ : o : ■
Frowningly from its buttressed walls on Chesapeake's bright crystal bay,
O'er all us mighty sliadow cast, Monroe uplifts its grajiite form.
Reposing calmly on the shore whose sand its moated waters lave,
The stern epitome it seems of martial power and majesty.
Marred though it is by time and tide, and age its weaknesses betrays,
On its proud mien we gaze, and thought drifts backward for a score of years
'Neath cloud}^ sky and lowering tempest sounding loudly overhead,
Kight gallantly our banner floated from its staff nor e'er was lowered ;
Our country's safety guarded well at her hands suffered not a whit.
Emblem majestic, firm it stands, of power a fitting prototype.
CHAPTER [.
" Roll on, thou deep and dark blue Ocpaii — roll I
Ten thou'iancl fleets sweep over thee in vain :
Man marks thf earth with ruin —his control
Ptbps with th« shore; — upon the watery plain
TlU' wrecks are all thy deed, nor doth remain
A shadow of man's ravage, save his own.
When for a moment, like a drop of rain.
He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan,
Without a grave, uiikuellM uncoffin'd and unknown.
AprROACHES TO FoRT MoNROE.
There are none who can appreciate these magnificent lines
of Lord Byron to their fullest extent, so well, as those who
have viewed in its broad expanse, the subject of the apos-
trophe of which our quotation is but a fragment. To thorough-
ly grasp the sublimity of the subject which inspired the
majestic strain of this King of Poets, one must see in all its
grandeur, and view in its limitless extent, the object of his
lofty praise, and his inimitably painted word-pictures.
To gaze upon the "illimitable waste of waters," and con-
template Divinity through this most awe-inspiring and im-
pressive of His Creations, conveys to the mind of the spectator
a new meaning, and a truer appreciation oi the majesty of
Byron's conceptions, and the appropriateness with which he
eulogizes this hoary-headed and crystal-crowned Monarch.
Tossing upon the heaving swell of the mighty Atlantic, or
gliding upon its placid bosom serenely, when devoid of storms
it seems like a magnificent mirror, from which is reflected the
Almighty's face; viewing in untrammeled proportions its
mighty domain, man's puny efforts seem inconceivably insig-
nificant. There is no sight which impresses one more forcibly
#ith a sense of his own littleness, as to be abroad on the
"rohing deep," and have naught to intercept his limit of vision
save the "watery plain," and the boundless horizon.
Sights which rivet the attention of the traveler, and excite
his interest, meet his eye as he is being swept northward by
the Atlantic's restless tide. Many mighty estuaries, almost
oceans in themselves, loom up before him, and impress him,
first with their magnitude, and secondly with their imijortance
connnerciaily.
The first which meets his eye, and impresses him with its
magnificence, and importance as a mercantile highway, and
the basins of whose tremendous feeding streams take in a
scope of territory unequalled in extent, and drain a country
unsurpassed for beauty and variety of climate, temperturc
and productions, is the Gulf of Mexico. Its tropical-fringed
shores luxuriating in a growth of vegetation, and bloomi.'ig
with a variety and splendor of verdure, seen only undei- thi'
burning suns and torrid skies of the Tropics, present a picture
to the eye of the spectator, viewing it for the first time, never
to be forgotten, and one which impresses him with a renewerl
sense of the extent and magnificence of our own beloved
country. Here may be .seen in all their beauty and perfection
those rare and delicate fruits and exotics, which are such an
important element in the festivity and ornamentation of more
northern climes, and less favored localities, and which prove
such a rarity to those fortunate enough to possess them.
The second arm of the Atlantic which presents Itself to
the view of the traveler, and swells with its mighty volume, its
ever onward rolling tide, is the Chesapeake Bay. It is the
largest on the eastern coast of the United States, bi!ing 200
miles long, and from 4 to 40 broad. This magnificent inland
sea has to do more intimately with our subject, and will.
eventually, bring us to the objective point of our journey.
Branching off from the Ocean, with a width at its mouth
of 12 miles, it is difficult to tell where the one ends, and the
other begins. Guarded at its mouth by two royal sentinels.
Chesapeake's tide travels oceanward, and alTords an outlet
for both Maryland's and Virginia's manufacturing interests.
On the North side is Cape Charles in Latitude 37° 3' North,
and Longitude 76° 2' West; and on the South Cape Henry,
in Latitude 36° 35' North, and Longitude 76° 4' West. Both
these promontories are in Virginia. These two capes, named
alter the sons of King James, stand guard over one of the
finest bays in the world, whose importance, commercially,
can only be properly estimated by those indebted to it as a
medium of traffic.
Chesapeake Bay has numerous arms, which receive many
navigable rivers, such as, the Susquehanna and the Patapsco
on the north, througli Maryland, and the James, on the south-
west, from Virginia. The Potomac on the wiest, flowing
between these two states, also empties its waters into the
same reservoir. The country drained by these large tribu-
taries, will ever remain prominent in American History, as
having been the theatre of some of the most fiercely contested
battles of the War of the Rebellion, and the Potomac river,
especially, giving name to one of the strongest forces which
the Federal Government had at its command, viz., the "Army
of the Potomac," will always awaken interest in the breast
of every one conversant with Columbia's history, and bring
back to the minds of thousands of her sons, memories of the
terrible ordeals through which she, as well as they, was com-
pelled to pass.
Entering the Chesapeake, and sailing northward on its
placid bosom for a distance of 18 or 20 miles, we reach what
is known as Hampton Roads, a name familiar to all mariners,
as being a synonym for rest and quiet, and a sure haven of peace
and security. Here may be seen, when the "rude sons of
Boreas"' assert their wild dominion, and lash into mad fury
the waters of the Atlantic till they seem like a boiling cauldron,
scores of fishing smacks, white winged coasting schooners,
and frequently, men-of-war, lying at anchor, and biding the
time when the Storm King shall have been driven forth by
gentle westerly breezes, whose milder domain shall again woo
them forth, and tempt them on their voyage oceanward.
It sets in westward from Chesapeake Bay, and its narrow
entrance is guarded by Fort Monroe. Not far from the entrance
it spreads out into an oval habor five miles in diameter.
Here and there, is a shallow place, but almost every part is
deep enough to float the largest vessel. The estuaries of two
rivers enter the top of the habor from opposite directions ;
the Jame^, from the northwest, and the Elizabeth, from the
southeast. It lays between Hampton and Norfolk, Virginia,
and forms the entrance to the James river. Its depth ranges
from 5 to 7 fathoms. The Fort commanding the enlrance to
the Roads, is situated on a point of land on the north shore
near its mouth. At the head of the estuary of the Elizabeth,
8 miles from its opening, are Norfolk, on the east side, and
Portsmouth, with Gospori, its suburb, on the west. At the
latter point, there is a U. S. Navy Yard, 20 miles from the
entrance of the Roads.
The interest of these waters historically, began early in the
history of America, they having sheltered as early as 1608,
Captain John Smith and a party of companions, from destruc-
tion by tempest, while exploring'the shores of the Chesapeake-
who, after being exposed to the full fury of the blast, sought
a convenient habor. York and James rivers were passed,
but, owing to the storm, they could not make them. They
finally came to the sandy tongue of land which proj«ycts into
the entrance of the James river, which, having rounded, they
found security and shelter. Out of gratitude for their deliver-
ance, and most appropriately selecting a name for this locality,
they called it Fo'mt Covifort. The adjective old, has since
l)een added, to distinguish this harbor and vicinity, from one
of a similar character higher up the bay, called New *Point
Comfort.
Coming down to a later period in our country's history, we
again see this same peaceful harbor proudly giving anchorage
and shelter to the French fleet, which proved such an inval-
uable auxiliary to Washington's forces in the subjugation of
Yorktov/n, and here also at a later period, in i8i3,the British
fleet retired and found shelter, while in small boats their
troops landed, and carried havoc and destruction into the quiet
village of Hampton. Still further on in the anna's of our
Nation, we see these same watersQTiguring prominently in the
War Vv hich deluged our land with blood for four long years,
from 1 861-1865.
Here rendezvoused the fleet and transports acconipanying
the "Burnside Expedition," v.hich in a little over three months,
succeeding, in conjunction with the land forces, in capturing
and restoring to the Union from which they had been foully
and ungratefully taken by the Confederate Government, all
the important points on the coast of North Carolina.
Thus it will be seen that these waters are classic in Ameri-
ctm history. From the time they afforded protection to Captain
John Smith, with his three ships in the seventeenth century,
before the bii-th of the American Republic, until over 250 yeai*s
later in 1861-65, witnessing the most fearful and stupendous
Avarfare of modern times, it has been the theatre of many im-
portant scenes ; in the latter stru^le especially, owing to its
proximity to our great Navy Yard at Norfolk. But, towering
far above them all, the glorious fight between the "Monitor,"
— 6 —
on the Union side, and the "Merrimac" on the Confederate
side, (the ktter vessel having been re-baptized the "Virginia,"
by the Confederates), most commands our admiration, as being
of thegreatest importance, not only in the affairs of this country,
but to the world at large.
Previous to the recountal of the battle a brief account of the
two vessels, their origin, inventors, and builders, will form a
fitting prelude.
The Confederate authorities early saw the necessity of float-
ing batteries to defend their coasts, harbors, and inland waters.
They could not hope to rival their enemy in the number of
vessels. They must rely on the superiority of a few. To
r-onstruct iron-clads required months of time, and a large a-
mount of capital, neither of which the Confederate Government
possessed. They had no means of building a hull or making
an engine. But imbecility, treachery, and accident, gave them
a hull and engine ready for use.
In 1855, the United States built, at different navy j-^ards,
three powerful steam frigates, the "xMerrimac," the "Roanoke,"
and the "Minnesota." They wore nearly all alike of about
35CK) tuns burden, carrying from forty to fifty guns. In April,
1 86 1, the "Merrimac" was at the Norfolk Navy Yard, under-
going repairs. When that place was abandoned, she was set
on fire, scuttled and sunk. She was soon after raised by the
Confederates, and a Committee was ordered to examine into
her condition, and the us« to which she mi'^ht be put. They
reported that her upper works were so much damaged that
she could not be rebuilt without great expense and delay ;
but the bottom pari of the hull, the boilers, and heavy parts
of the engine, were almost without injury, and that these
could be adapted for a shot-proof steam battery more quickly
and for one third of the sum, whici it would cost to consb'uct
such a vessel anew.
The plan was furnished by Brooks and Porter. The cen-
tral part of the hull for something more than half its length,
was cut down to within three or four feet of the water-line to
form the gun-deck, and the hull was plated with iron to a
depth of about six feet below the water-line. A casemate of
novel construction was built on the gun-deck, ^ne beams,
a foot square and fifteen feet long, were placed side by side,
like rafters, at an inclination of about 45 degrees. These
projected over the sides of the vessel like the eaves of a house,
their ends dipping two feet below the water. Upon these
beams were placed two layers of oak planks four inches thick ;
one layer horizontal, and the other vertical. This was first
overlaid with ordinary flat bars of iron four and a half inches
thick. Experiments showed that this thickness of iron was
inadequate, and a layer of railroad iron was added. This
casemate did not come to a point, like the roof of a house,
but there was a flat space on the top, rendered bomb-proof
by plates of wrought iron. From this roof projected a short
smoke-stack.
The armament consisted of eight i i-inch guns, four on each
side, and a 100-pound rifled Armstrong gun at each end.
The ends of the vessel were cut down still lower, so as to be
two feet below water. A light bulwark, or false bow, of
wood was built. This served the two-fold purpose of pre-
venting the water from banking up against the case-mate
when the vessel was in motion^ and of a tank to diminish
the draft. To this craft was given the name of the " Virginia. "
The draft of the "Merrimac" had been about twenty-three
feet, and her speed was fourteen or fifteen miles an hour,
after her conversion into an iron clad, she drew twenty-five
feet of water, and her speed was reduced to seven knots and
a- half.
— 8 —
Some time elapsed before the Federal Government perceived
the absolute necessity of iron clad vessels. Experiments had been
made by the Stevens' Brothers of New Jersey, in the construc-
tion of an iron battery upon an original plan, and Congress, at
length, on the 3rd of August, 1862, appropriated ;$i,5co,oco
for the building of iron-clads. The proposals*\vere sent out.
and the Commission reported in favor of three different vessels.
The "Ironsides" by Merrick and Sons of Philadelphia, a re-
gular man-of-war, 20 guns, and covered with 4^ inches of
solid plate. The " Galena " by C.S. Buslinell, of x\ew Haven,
a steamer, brigantinc rigged, 1 8 guns, plated with from 2 to 4
inches of thin rolled iron. The third was an anomaly in
naval architecture, with John Ericsson of New York for its in-
ventor.
"John Ericsson was born in the Province of Vermland, in
Sweden, on July 31st, 1803. He was a Swedish Engineer of
prominence. He received several titles and dignities both in
this country and in Europe, receivingthe distinction ofL. L. D.
from an American University.
He came to America in 1839, landing at New York, Nov.
23rd. Some time previous to 1854, he had been revolving
in his mind the idea of an iron-plated shot-proof ship of war.
On September 26th 1S54, plans and specifications of the
'• Monitoi', " as she afterwards appeared, were sent from New
York to the Emperor Napoleon III, thus giving him an op-
portunity of monoplizing for the French Nation in the Crimean
War, this new departure in naval warfare. The Emperor at
once acknowleded Ericsson's letter, but, fortunately for America
the offer was not accepted, and the "Monitor" was first
used for the protection of his adopted country.
Following will be found a copy of a letter explaining why
Ericsson r-alled his ship the " Monitor. "
— 9 —
(Copy)
New York, January 20th, 1862.
Sir: —
In accordance with your request, I now submit for your
approbation a name for the the floating battery at Green
Point.
The impregnable and aggressive character of this structure
will admonish the leaders of the Southern Rebellion that the
batteries on the banks of their rivers will no longer present
barriers to the entrance of the Union forces.
The iron-clad intruder will thus prove a severe monitor to
those leaders. But there are other leaders who will also be
startled and admonished by the booming of the guns from the
impregnable iron turret. " Downing Street " will hardly view
with indifference this last "Yankee notion," this monitor. To
the Lords of Admiralty the new craft will be a monitor, sug-
gesting doubts as to the propriety of completing those four
steel-clad vessels at three-and-a-half millions apiece.
On these and many similar grounds I propose to name the
new battery "Monitor."
Your obedient servant,
J. Erricsson.
To Gustavus V, Fox,
Assistant Secretary of the Navy :
Having thus given a preliminary look at the inventor, we
will now look at the ship itself.
Her dimensions were as follows : = Extreme length 172
feet, this included her armor, and also that part which ex-
tended beyond the hull proper. The length of the hull
proper was 1 24 feet ; Her total beam 41 y^ feet, including over
3-
— 10 —
armor and backing; beams of her hull proper 34 feet: her depth
1 1 feet ; draught i o feet ; her total weight with everything
on board was 900 tons ; the diameter of her turret inside was
20 feet; its height 9 feet; its thickness 8 inches ; the vessel's
armor, 5 inches of iron and 5 feet of oak.
Her shape wasthatofhalf of an egg-shell, slightly flattened at
the bottom. Five feet below the top there was an iron shelf
projecting nearly four feet from the sides. This was filled
with oaken blocks, over which were bolted five series of iron
plate? each an inch thick. This armor shelf or platform pro-
jected 16 feet at the stern, in order to cover the rudder, and
propeller, and ten feet at the bow to protect the anchor. Her
armament consisted of two ii-incn guns.
The principal feature of the "Monitor,'' of course, was her
revolving turret. It was constructed of plates of iron an inch
thick, three feet wide, and nine feet in length. Eight of these
plates constituted its thickness. Jt was thus nine feet high
and eight inches thick, with a diameter of twenty feet.
The two port-holes were of an oval shape just large enough
to allow the guns to be elevated to secure the proper range.
It was made to revolve upon a central shaft by means of a
separate engine. Therefore when she presented herself her
deck was a smootli surface, broken only by the huge round
turret, and a low square pilot-house near the bow.
It is not much of a matter of wonderment that she should be
termed a '' cheese-box, " by her confederate opponents. Her
propelling power was in her stern.
A few weeks later than the time of her completion was to
be fought a naval battle not only between the first iron-clads,
but the first between screw-propelled ships.
By a singular coincidence both the " Merrimac " and the
" Monitor " were finished on the 5th of March, 1862. On the
4th of March, Lieut. Commander John L. Worden, received
— II —
orders to proceed with his vessel to Hampton Roads, and report
to the senior Naval Officer there. This in perfect ignorance of
the mighty results to follow. The " Monitor " left the Lower
Bay of New York on the afternoon of the 6th of March. 1862.
passing Cape Henry light-house March 8th, 1862. This day.
one of the saddest of the Rebellion, had witnessed the de-
truction of the U. S. ships "Cumberland" and "Congress,"
by the rebel ram " Merrimac. " For weeks previous to her
arrival conflicting reports had reached Fort Monroe, and
vicinity, of the intentions and movementof this dreaded mon-
ster. All w'ere on the ffd vive, anticipating her arrival, but
dreading the consequences.
At noon on Saturday March the 8th, the "Merrimac"
rounded SewelFs Point, standing up towards Newport News.
She was attended by the "Frazer" and "Yorktown, " two
small steamers armed with rifled guns. She was commanded
by Franklin Buchanan, who had entered the United States
Navy thirty-five years before. He stood high on the roll
having attained the rank of Captain. He was commander of
the Navy Yard at Washington when the war broke out. He,
resigned his commission, and entered heart and hand into the
Confederate service. Having been born in Maryland, he
could not even plead having followed Iiis native state in tak-
ing up arms against his country. This was the trial trip of
the "Merrimac," and what throws around this contest such
an extraordinary interest, is the fact that the armament and
style of both ships were entirely new, and the battle was
naught but a test of the powers of the two antagonists. The
"Congress" and "Cumberland" were anchored off Newport
News, about a quarter of a mile apart, and about the same
distance from shore, the rest of the fleet were lying neai- Fort
Monroe, six miles distant. As soon as the " Merrimac " came
within range of the " Congress, " she opened fire upon her
<^_
— 12 —
with her loo-pound bowgun. The heartlessness and cruelty
of this warfare can be slightly estimated when it is taken into
consideration that the favorite brother of Captain Buchanan
was purser on board of the " Congress, " and when he gave
the order to fire, he knew he was aiming his missiles against his
brother's life. The attack was made at dead slack water, the
commander of the " Merrimac " knowing that his two oppo-
nents being sailing ships could not use springs on their cables
at that tir^e to present their broadsides to the enemy. The
•• Congress " answered the attack of her powerful antagonist
with a whole broadside from eleven 9-inch Dahlgrens. They
rebounded from her iron sides, inflicting no more damage,
than if they had been pebbles . The ''Merrimac " seemed to
be anxious to test her defenses, and they justified the belief
in her impregnability. Six broadsides were delivered without
any essential damage. She kept straight on until her bow
pointed straight at the "Cumberland.'' This was at three
o'clock in the afternoon.
The huge monster opened fire upon the ill-fated vessel,
at the same time striking her with her iron beak. at a terrific
momentum, be^ow the water-line, making a ragged opening
large enough to admit the body of a man. The " Merrimac "
then opened fire. Broadside after broadside was delivered
ill rapid succession, each shot reaching a vital part. Some
idea of the destructiveness of the fire may be imagined from
the fact that the first shot killed and wounded ten men at the
after pivot gun. The second shot killed and wounded twelve
men at the forward pivot gun. The following statement
made by an officer on board the " Cumberland," and taken
from ''The First Monitor," a paper read before the Buffalo
Historical Society by Eben P. Dorr, gives a graphic acccunt
of the heart-rending scenes happening in connection with this
terrible conflict.
— 13 —
Just after the ramming of the "Cumberland" he says: — "I
was looking throrgh the air port of the sick bay, at the time
and had a full view of the " Merrimac. " She was like a large
iron shed sunk down to the roof, with a gun put in the gable.
The shock was tremendous. I heard the stones rattling in the
gunner's room underneath, and some of the bolts in the
hanging knees were driven in, and the water spouted in, in
a full stream. Part of the wounded had been brought down
and were partially dressed, when a percussion shell came
through the spar deck hatch, bursting in the sick bay imme-
diately under the spar deck, killing four of the wounded men.
By this time the ship was settling by the head, and we moved
to the steerage. It was necessary to lift the wounded, brought
down to the berth deck, on to the big racks and mess-chests,
to save them from drowning in the water which was flow-
ing in very fast.
"All this time, the three rebel ships continued to fire on
us, and it was returned as warmly. Trunks of cartridges were
hoisted on the gun deck and opened, the guns' crews kicked
off their shoes stripped to their pants, their heads tied up
with their black neck handkerchiefs, loaded, fired, yelled,
and dragged the killed and wounded, amidships. There was
no time for form or to send them below.
" In forty-five minutes from the time she was struck, the
order was given to leave quarters and save themselves as best
they could. The ship in sinking keeled over. The ladders
were almost perpendicular. The crash was fearful. As there
is often in the gravest scenes a corner for the ludicrous, so
there was in this. The marine druniiner holding on to his
drum, the men pushing him up from below, landing him on
deck with it, caused a laugh at his expense, desperately as
we were situated.
" When the spar deck was reached, it inclined like the roof
— 14 —
of a house. The boats previous to the action, had all been
lowered and made fast in a line on the shore side. Every
one took to the water and swam for the boats. While hesi-
tating at the after pivot port, a man next to me said. 'Jump !
here comes the pivot gun !' It had been pivoted on the upper
side, and breaking away rushed down in the water catching,
as it went, Quartermaster Murray, a young, active, un wounded
man. He fell, and the gun bounded on his back, like some
tierce animal, breaking his spine. His face rose with an un-
utterable look of agony, which once seen, could never be
forgotten.
The ship sunk to her tops, in which many of the men took
refuge. As the boats made for the shore, the enemy contin-
ued to shell us, but we were below in the water, so that the
shell went ever us. One of them knocked to pieces the end
of the wharf we were making for. (This is what is now
known as the Baltimore Wharf, at Fort Monroe.) On land-
ing, the soldiers met us in crowds ; they hugged and embraced
us, and whiskey flasks were held to our mouths, plugs of
tobacco shoved into our pockets, and they cried and cheered
and cursed: and we were clothed and comforted by them.
"The "Cumberland" lost one hundred and seventeen out
of three hundred. Fourteen of the wounded were saved.
When the order was given to leave the ships, the wounded
men, most of them mangled by shell, begged to be killed rather
than be left to drown, and the yell of agony as she sank was
heard in the camp of the troops on shore. But sh£ sunk with
her colors fly im/ ! The last gun was fired by a volunteer of-
ficer. Lieutenant Randall, now in the naval service. Lieut,
Morris was hailed by Captain Buchanan of the "Merrimac, "
'Do you surrender?' He answered, 'No, sir!'
"The slaughter was terrible among the marines. They
were commanded by Lieutenant Hey wood, a gallant man.
— 15 —
There were many interesting scenes on board. A man dread-
fully, hopelessly wounded, had been carried ^down to the
cock-pit. While therein, his 'chummy,' or friend, with a
wounded hand only, came to have it dressed, intending to
return. The wounded man said, 'Tom, are you going to leave
me?' Tom said, 'No. I will not!' and sat down on deck, took
his frieud's head in his lap, and went down with him. The
cock-pit sentry also went dow^n at his post.
"Leaving the ''' Cumberland, " the ram went for the ''Con-
gress. ■" She was aground and helpless. Hot shot were
fired into her, and she was soon on fire. Full of wounded
men. Lieutenant Smith killed, the ship on fire, the colors were
hauled down at four o'clock. "
The father of the conunander of the " Congress "' was watch-
ing the itattle from the ramparts of Fort Monroe ; he had been
looking S'lrough his gla.ss, and when, for a moment, he turned
away, and some one else took the glass, and cried out hastily.
''The •• Congress " has struck her colors ! " " Then, " said he.
'•Joe is dead!" This showed the unbounded confidence felt
in him ])y his father. To resume the thread of our story.
"A small tender from the " Merrimac, " went between the
•' Congress " and the shore, but the Zouaves under Colonel
Lozier w-ith their rifles picked off the men in the tug, and she
left without making a prisoner or securing ihefluf/ of the " Gon-
gi-ess ; " and then, to the surprise of every one, the " Merrimac "
steamed back for Norfolk. She had left her ram in the •* Cum-
berland, '' and was leaking badly. All the wounded of the
•' Congress" were taken ashore, and at 12:30 she blew- up,
the fire having reached her magazines.
An old man, Russel, aged sixty, stationed in the after mag-
azine of the " Cumberland, " w'ent down with the ship, made
his way up through the hatches, to the surface and was hauled
into the mizzentop, the only one out of water. The weight
— i6 —
rushing forward kept her head lower than the stern, entirely
submerging her fore and main tops. As soon as Radford heard
the firing he attempted to reach us; but the ''Roanoke*' was
repairing her machinery, the "Minnesota" aground, and as
we landed at Newport News, he rode down to the beach on
a horse without saddle or bridle, merely a halter. He was
ragged and muddy from falls, haggard with anxiety and re-
gret; but brightened up when he was pointed to the flag still
flying from his ship. He was noted for complete control of
himself, but he cried like -a child when contemplating the sad
scene before him. A kinder and braver Captain never com-
manded a ship, and though he regretted his own absence, he
approved the acts of the gallant Morris, his officers and crew,
by saying: 'It could not have been done better.' For
weeks after the battle, the flag of the "Cumberland" waved
above her wreck, a sad, but glorious memorial of the match-
less prowess and martyrdom of her crew. Thus ends the
account of an eye-witness of one of the most memorable
conflicts of the war. The sad fate of the " Cumberland " and
■' Congress " has since become the subject of song and story.
The pages of history fail to record a more desperate or more
gloriously contested struggle, in the annals of war.
And now, with the " Cumberland " sunk in the depths of
the waters she had so gallantly tried to defend, and the wreck
of the " Congress " a prey to the flames, the " Merrimac " turned
her attention to the remainder of the Union fleet, and essayed
to visit upon them the same fate as she had inflicted upon
their unfortunate companions. The " Minnesota, " which
in endeavoring to go to the rescue of the "Congress" and
"Cumberland" had run aground at Sewell's Point, seemed
to offer an easy victory. The " Roanoke " and the " St. Law-
rence, " also met with the same fate.
The greater draught of the " Merrimac " prevented her
— 17 —
from approaching nearer than a mile to the " Minnesota " She
opened fire upon this vessel, but only one shot was effective.
This ineffectual contest was carried on for about two hours.
The two smaller antagonists attending the "Merrimac'* were
soon silenced by the Dahlgren howitzers of the Federal gun-
boats, and the ''Goliah'' of the fleet unable to consummate
her vicious intentions, steamed back with her consort to the
protection of the batteries at the mouth of the Elizabeth. Thus
ended a sad day for the anxious hearts at Old Point. All a-
waited with dread foreboding the rising of the morrow's sun.
This was the situation on Saturday night when the "Monitor''
arrived at Hampton Roads, having left New York Bay two
days before. Some time previous to her arrival in the Roads,
the sound of the sanguinary conflict had reached her, and shells
were seen to burst in the air. The disappointed officers on
board the " Monitor " were sadly chagrined, supposing the
report to proceed from an attack on Norfolk, for which they
had arrived too late. They urged their ship on as rapidly as
possible, and a pilot was taken on board, who, terror-stricken
with the frightful message he carried, told the receding day's
doings in Hampton Roads . I le received orders to put the " Mon-
itor" in the neighborhood of the "Merrimac. " This gave him
such a fright that when he came to where his boat Avas anchored
he quickly got aboard of her and disappeared. She however
anchored alongside of the "Minnesota" a little after midnight.
They anxiously awaited the dawning of the 9th of March.
At about 8 o'clock in the morning the "Merrimac" was seen
slowly approaching the scene of her former day's triumph.
At about the same time from the deck of the "Merrimac"
the " Confederate outlook " reported a steam-tug playing round
the " Minnesota. " Then as the " Monitor " shot out from
the lee of the " Minnesota " the news travelled along the
deck like wild-fire : "Ericsson's Batterv has arrived. The
4
— i8 —
Monitor has come. " The pigmy size of the "Monitor, "oc-
casioned a great laugh on board the "Merrimac. " They
seemed disposed to treat her with contempt, and looking at
the respective dimensions of the two vessels there seemed,
reason for it. They had been looking for her lor days.
The two antagonists slowly approached each other. When
the "Merrimac" came within sight her smoke-stack was dis-
covered to have been greased with tallow to assist in glancing
the shots. As the " Monitor " came alongside of her mighty
foe, she opened upon her, receiving in return ])road-side after
broad-side, of those death-dealing missiles, Avhich had carried
such death and desolation on board of her victims the day
before, but she saw them glide from the sides of the '• Monitor, "
like grains of sand. Then the word was passed " the Yankee
cheese-box is made of iron. '' In the previous day's contest
the " Merrimac, " having lost her beak from failing to reverse
her engines in tkne she had leaked slightly. When she had
retired the preceding day, she calked up the leak as best she
might, and tacked over it three or four thicknesses of canvass.
Every shot fired by the " Monitor, " was followed by the vessel
hei*self, and she would drive with all the force she was able
to summon from her engines, full against the " Merrimac, "
increasing the leak, and stripping off the iron plating from her
sides with every shot. Each collision was followed by the
speedy gliding of the " Monitor" in front of her foe, she being,
from her smaller size, much more easily manipulated. It
was the intention of Lieutenant Worden, if possible, to injure
the propeller of the " Merrimac, " but she missed it by a few
feet.
The vessels, during the contest, were but a short distance
from each other, many times their iron casings coming in con-
tact. Broadside after broadside was dehvered at this incredible
rihort range, but the revolving turret receiving the shots at a vcr>
— 19 —
acute angle was simply dented. Then from the mouth? of the
death-dealing Dahlgren's (to ordinary ships) would belch forth
their terrible response, and send thundering against the sides of
her formidable adversary, the full fury of their vengeance. The
armament of the " Merrimac " was extremely powerful, for
the days in which it was manufactured, but often they sent
their missiles only to have them broken after striking and
collected as trophies from the deck of the " Monitor". This
being little more than a test of the capabilities of the two
vessels, their armament never having been tried, and their
crews being so excited and so little used to their weapons, the
guns in the first part of the contest were too highly elevated,
and many of the projectiles were wasted in the air ; but later
in the fight the mistake was discovered, and the guns lowered,
and then it was that shots from the Monitor's guns, hitting
the junction formed by the meeting of the casemate and the
side of the ship, caused a leak in the ''Merrimac. " In the
early part of the contest, considerable anxiety was felt by
Lieutenant Worden, as to the workings of the turret, it iiaving
been predicted that a shot striking it with great initial velocity,
would so derange it as to interfere with its effective working,
but having been twice struck, his confidence in his little giant,
was thoroughly restored, and he renewed the contest with a
great deal of zeal.
Captain Buchanan having been wounded, the command of the
"Merrimac, " devolved upon Captain Jones, who, remember-
ing the terrible execution effected by her beak the day before,
steers her directly against the "Monitor" with the same in-
tention, but he " reckoned without his host, " for, by a clever
shift of the helm at the critical moment, giving a broad sheer
with her bow towards the enemy's stern, by this means a-
voiding a direct blow, and receiving it at a very acute angle
— 20 —
on the starboard quarter, it glanced off, inflicting little or no
injury to the "Monitor."
The contest continued for about four hours, with the excep-
tion of an interval of fifteen minutes, when the "Monitor"
hauled off to remedy some deficiency in the supply of shots
in the turret, until near noon, when, being within ten yards
of the enemy a shell from the "Merrimac" struck her pilot
house, near the look-out hole, through which Lieut. Worden
was looking. He and his Quartermaster were both looking at
the time, through a slight aperture or "conning-hole, " con-
sisting of a slit between the bars, and the Quartermaster
seeing the " Merrimac's " gunners sighting their gun on the
the pilot-house, dropping his head at the same time gave a
warning cry. But simultaneously with his warning the shell
struck the opening. It exploded, fracturing one of the iron
logs of which it was composed, filling Lieut. Worden's face
and eyes with powder, utterly blinding and partially stunning
liim. His escape from death was marvellous. The top of the
pilot-house was partially lifted off by the force of the concus-
sion, which let in a flood of light so strong as to be apparent
to Worden, blind as he was, and caused him to believe that
the pilot-house was seriously disabled. He gave orders that
Lieut. Greene should be sent for, and told him to take com-
mand. When Worden retired word was brought to him that
the "Merrimac" was retiring tc Norfolk. It is interesting to
note that the steward of the " Merrimac, " J. B. Jones is at
present Light-House Keeper on the Point.
About the same time the "Monitor's " turret was struck, a
shot from her had pierced the "Merrimac " near the water
line, and caused a leak, and the mighty monster, despairing
of overcoming her antagonist steered to Norfolk.
' Thus ends the account of the most remarkable naval con-
flict of modern times, first because, both armament and vessels
were untried, secondly the contest was between iron-clads,
and the first also between screw-propellers. The end of both
vessels was violent, the '' Merrimac " being destroyed by the
Confederates a little over a month after the battle, May i ith
1862. they being unable to take her up James River, and the
" Monitor "" being lost off Cape Hatteras, eleven mouths from
the time she was launched.
Owing to the heavy armament of both vessels, it was wond-
ered why the conflict was not more quickly settled. Mr.
Newton the Chief Engineer of the ''Monitor, " when question-
ed by the War Committee on the subject thus answered: —
" It was due to the fact that the power and endurance of the
1 1 -inch Dahlgren gun, with which the Monitor was armed
were not known at the time ot the battle ; hence the com-
mander would hardly have been justified in increasing the
charge of powder above that authorized in the Ordnance
Manual, Subsequent experiments developed the important
fact that these guns could be fired with thirty pounds of can-
non powder, with solid shot If this had been known at the
time of the action, I am clearly of the opinion, that, from the
close quarters at which Lieutenant Worden fought his vessel,
the enemy would have been forced to surrender. It will of
course, be admitted by eveiy one, that if but a single 15-inch
gun could possibly have been mounted within the turret (it was
planned to carry the heaviest ordnance), the action would have
been as short and decisive as the combat between the monitor
Weehawken, Captain John Rodgers, and the rebel iron-clad
" Atlanta, " which, in several respects was superior to the
" Merrimac, " He added, that, as it was, but for the injury
received by Lieutenant Worden, that vigorous officer would
very likely have " badgered " the " Merrimac " to a surrender.
Soon the news was enthusiastically flashed along the tele-
graph wires, and the enthusiasm was as great as had been
the depression, the day before. Thanks and laudations from
ail quarters were poured in upon the "Monitor," Ericsson,
her inventor, Worden, her commander, Green, her executive
officer, Newton her Chief Engineer, Stimei-s the Engineer
detailed to accompany and report on her, and who Avorked
the turret, all the officers in shoK and all the crew shared
the honors. All the dignitaries of the Nation from the Presi-
dent down, diplomatic corps, Officers of both sendees, and
lach'es by scores, came in crowds, to see this new engine of
warfare and view the site of the memorable conflict in Hamp-
ton Roads. The President having convened a Cabinet meet-
ing, heard accidentally that Lieutenant Worden was in the
city. He immediately dissolved the meeting and went to the
Hotel to see him. Worden lay on the sofa blindfolded, and
when Mr. Lincoln came into the parlor, he wrung his hand while
the tears coursed rapidly down his cheeks. Mr. Lincoln said,
■' Lieutenant Worden I am honored. " To which Worden
replied " No, it is I who am honored. "
Having thus far conducted our readers we will next dis-
cuss the surroundings of Fort Monroe.
CHAPTER II.
Breathing of the mystic Past,
Whost- laem'ries pregnant with Renown,
Carry us backward to the scenes.
Which make our Country's history ;
Monroe's nurrounciings big with Fame,
Speak from the shades of other years.
Aud tell us stories, which command
From all, respect and reverence.
Surroundings of Fort Monroe.
Having entered the Roads, the first object which meets the
eye of the observer and looms up prominently before him.
is an unfinished fortification, called the " Rip-Raps. " The
signification of the term, and its applicability, may not be fam-
iliar, and is, therefore, deemed worthy of explanation. The
term " rip-rap " is a technicality, which literally signifies.
" rough stone-w^ork, '' and is applied in the present instance,
first, from the manner in which the foundation of the Fort
was made, and, secondly, because the stones of which the
walls are formed, are termed, '' roughly dressed "' stone.
This structure was begun sometime about the year 1 82 1 .
and the foundation was made, by throwing upon the sand-
bar, upon which it rests, thousands of tons of stone, brought
principally from Maine, some from Port Deposit, near Phila-
delphia, and several other places, until a groundwork of suf-
ficient strength was obtained, upon w^hich the present fortifi-
cation was built.
Some idea of the magnitude of the work may be formed,
when it is noted, that the work of forming this foundation.
was an undertaking of twenty years duration. Work upon
the walls was commenced about the year 1 861, but previous
— 24 —
to its inauguration, a weight of stones, exceeding by far the
weight of the anticipated fortification, was placed upon the foun-
dation to settle it firmly in its place, and thus prevent, a sinking
ofthestmcture, after its completion. The idea which popular-
ly prevails upon the Point and its vicinity, that this place was
abandoned on account of a continued sinking, is, therefore
erroneous. The reason why its completion was postponed,
was owing to the fact, that the Engineer having the work in
charge found that the improved Ordnance of modern warfare,
would speedily reduce it, and, therefore, its practical ulility,
if finished in consistency with the plans and specifications,
was to be doubted. The same authority, however, maintains
it as his opinion, that if the space between the foundation a-
bove water level, and the walls proper, was filled u]» with
l)anks of sand, and armament placed upon it, as it now stands,
in six months, it could be made impregnable. The work of
construction was carried on for about six years, until 1 867.
when it ceased, and has not since been renewed.
The name of the Fort was originally, Fort Calhoun, but at
the breaking out of the War of the Rebellion, owing to the
views sustained by Governor John C. Calhoun, of South Car-
olina, after whom it was called, and, also, because he was the
father of the "Repudiation " doctrine, it was changed to " Fort
Wool, " in honor of General Wool, whose war record was
veiy creditable, and who at the time, was commanding the
Department, embracing the same within its limits. The name
" Rip-Raps, " is, however, more generally applied to it, than
any other. During the War the houses now to be found up-
on it, were used as a prison for military convicts, who were
sent to assist in the erection of " Monroe. " Fort Wool was
also used as a place of incarceration for rebel prisoners, during
tlie War, and from its walls one was hung as a spy during
the R.ebellion.
— 25
Having viewed this curiosity until satisfied, we will next
land on the Point at the Baltimore Wharf, as it is called, on ac-
count of its being more largely used by the Baltimore line of
Steamers, than any other ; it was built, because the "Light
House Wharf, " as it is generally termed, was not large enough
to accommodate the shipping of freight and stores to the Point
which was particularly great during the War. Since its first
erection, additions have been made to it, until it has assumed
its present proportions.
Having fairly landed, we are welcomed by the urbane and
gentlemanly proprietor of the Hygeia Hotel, the pride of the
Point, whose massive form rears itself immediately in front
of us. In 1863, the present mammoth building was of very
small dimensions, and was owned by a firm named Clark and
Wilson, from whom it was procured by its present proprietor,
Harrison Pha^bus Esq. From its humble commencement, it
has gradually improved, in appearance and size, until, at the
present time, it stands one of the principal summer resorts on
the Atlantic sea-board.
It is situated one hundred yards from Fort Monroe, at the
confluence of Chesapeake Bay and Hampton Roads, about
180 miles south from Baltimore, and 1 5 miles north of Norfolk
and Portsmouth.
The place is reached by the splendid steamers of the Bay
Line, Potomac and James Pviver Companies, running daily be-
tween Baltimore, Washington, Richmond and Norfolk, and
by rail direct from Richmond via Chesapeake and Ohio Rail-
way. These means of transit, to and fro, render the Point
easy of access, and conduce to its popularity.
The Hotel is four stories in height, substantially built, and
comfortably furnished ; as a resort for the pleasure seeker, in-
valid, or resting place for tourists on their way to Florida or
the North, this place is unsurpassed as a seaside resort.
5
— 26 —
Wending our way slowly along the Beach, or promenading
the corridors of the Hotel, we notice the Light House, which
stands prominently in view, in front of us. This Light built
in 1834, shines out upon Chesapeake's gloomy waters, when
storm-cloud, and temptest-shadow darken their crystal beauty
and warn the storm-tossed mariner of the presence of danger.
We also see, in its vicinity, the abutments standing, upon
which was built a Wharf, which was used for passenger and
freight traffic, until the more ample and convenient accom-
modations of the Baltimore Wharf superseded it. This Wharf,
built in 1862 and enlarged in 1864, was first constructed on
account of the Goods landing on the "Light House Wharf, "
having to be transported by labored pulling up a tough sandy
Beach, and, also, on account of its small size, it was unable
to accommodate the large amount of traffic carried on. It
was built in 1 882, and has since been used for the landing
and shipping of heavy Ordnance.
Retracing our steps, until we again stand upon' the Point,
we see the Quartermaster's residence, opposite the Hotel, built
in 1865, and a twin structure of the Hotel, of which it was a
fac-simile. Next we have Adams Express Office built in 1 873,
aud the large and accommodating establishment of William H.
Kimberly, built in 1 868. Opposite this store, and on the same
side of the road, we next see confronting us, what is familiar-
ly known as the " Gun-yard. "
Embracing within its limits an area of about half an acre,
it is surrounded on all sides by an iron fence, which, on first
sight, presents to the eye a peculiar appearance, but, upon a
closer observation, the barrels and bayonets of old-time musk-
ets, are found to form its structure. The idea popularly pre-
vailing on the Point, that these were trophies conquered from
the Confederates during the late War, is an erroneous one.
Thev are arms which were rendered useless in the fire at the
— 27 —
Washington Arsenal, in 1866, and were sent to the Point, to
be put under the trip-hammer, and assist in the manufacture
of other munitions of war. But the authorities having the
matter in charge, conceived the idea of a different use for them,
and they were placed in their present position.
They form an appropriate enclosure to contain the relics
of Revolutionary times, to be found just inside the gates, which
were conquered from the British at the battle of Yorktovvn
in 1781 ; both six and twelve pounders, the former ot which
is now obsolete, so far as its use is concerned, in modern war-
fare ; and other specimens of War's dread array.
Twenty odd years ago, the ground covered by the Yard's
present chmensions, Avas more than one third ruled over and
submerged beneath the waters of Chesapeake Bay. A whart
ran from where the Baltimore Wharf now stands, clear round
the beach, to the site now occupied by the black-smith Shop
of the Quartermaster's Department, and Engineer Boat-house.
The washing of the tide, filling the interstices between the
piles forming the foundation of this structure, with sand, caused
in time a formation of new ground, compact and solid, upon
which the present building now stands.
On the opposite side, on the corner, stands the store of Jas.
D. Watkins, built in 1863 ; next we come to the Book Store,
William Baulch, Post Trader, proprietor ; back of which on
the same ground stands the house now occupied by the widow
of Gen'l. De Russy. This building has quite a history. Built
in 1 8 1 7, it was at first a Government Stable ; then when
the construction of the Fort commenced, large nundjers
of slaves and military prisoners employed on the works, re-
quired a place of confinement and this house was then turned
into a prison for their incarceration. About 1842 it was
turned into a dwelling-house, since which time it has so re-
mained.
— 28 —
Wending our way slowly along, we see on our right the
Office of the Engineering Department, and Fort Monroe Post
Office. In the extent of the ground occupied by it, and the
other buildings surrounding it, was a Hotel of small dimensions,
which during the Rebellion, was turned into a Hospital by
General Benj. F. Butler, and afterwards removed by order of
the Secretary of War.
St. Mary's Catholic Church, the cornor-stone of which was
laid in 1848, Rev. Thomas Murray Pastor, in which Divine
Services are held every Sunday morning at 10:30 A. M., and
V^espers at 4:30 P. M., in Summer and 7:30 P. M. in Winter,
and the only church of any denomination, on the Point, out-
side the walls of the Fort, next meets the eye of the observer;
, adjoining which, are two stables, which were used as places
of residence for the citizens employed in the Fort. Above
these are seen a row of frame buildings erected by the Ord-
nance Department, about 1 838, and used as places of residence.
On the right of the road stands a large brick building known
as the " Machine Shop," which, during the War,' employed
between 400 and 500 men ; this building was erected about
i860 and was used for the manufacture of rifled Cannon, ax-
les for heavy sling-carts, and various other utensils of war.
The other buildings on the Point, were principally erected
in i860 and 1861, and were used for the purposes to which
they are now devoted, with the exception of the Quarters of
the Ordnance Department, adjoining the Machine Shop, and
the residence and Office of its Commandant, Major L. S. Bab-
bitt, which are 01 recent date.
Between the Point and Mill Greek Bridge, lying about a
mile distant, were houses, shops, and storehouses, which have
since been removed, and the ground devoted to other purposes.
On the bridge just referred to is a Picket Guard-house, where
the '' sentry walks his lonely round. " and keeps watch over
— 29-
Government property and the Reservation, which extends
about twenty feet the other side of the Creek.
Traversing the Sliell-Road which stretches before us, we
see looming in the distance, the town of Hampton, situated
three miles from Old Point. As early as 1608, this town
was visited by Captain John Smith, and some of his comrades,
and they were hospitably entertained by the natives, previous
to his starting on his voyage of exploration. It was at that time
of very limited dimensions, being a small village, containing
only about eighteen houses, and covering an area of three
acres of ground. The name by which it was known, then, wa?
Kecoughtan, after a tribe of Indians in the vicinity, who at that
time were very small, riumbering only about twenty warriors.
It was settled by the English as early as 1610, although the
name it now bears, was not applied to it, until long afterward.
In 1705, the town was incorporated, and received its present
name of Hampton.
"In 1794, Hampton is mentioned in the same connection
with Norfolk, Richmond, Petersburg, and other towns, thus
showing it must have been a place of some importance. "
This is taken from a work called " Notes on Virginia, " by
Thomas Jefferson.
Hampton has, at various times, been visited by scourges in
the shape of invaders, both in the War of the Revolution,
and also in the late War of the Rebelion. " One of the
earliest engagements of the Revolutionary War, was the suc-
cessful defense of the town by the inhabitants, aided by a
rifle company, against the boats of a British fleet, in October.
1775. In 181 3, the town was less fortunate, being attacked
by Admiral Cockburn and Sir Sidney Beckwith, with a flo-
tilla of boats, and captured after a short but decisive action.
On this occasion, the place was given up to pillage, and the
inhabitants who had been unable to flee, subjected to most
— ^o —
shameful in((ignities and barbarities. Even the British com-
mander, was moved to indignation, at the excesses he was un-
able to prevent ; and answering a congratulation received
from his commanding general at Norfolk, deprecated all praises
of his achievement, with the forcible and striking rcmaxk :
•'Worthless is the laurel that is steeped in woman's tears."
Again when the war of 1861 broke out, Hampton was
destined to still fm-ther disaster. The creek upon which
the town now stands, was, for awhile, the dividing line be-
tween the Union and Confederate forces ; the latter occupy-
ing the western, the former the eastern side. In August 1 86 1 ,
the Confederate forces, under Genend Magrudor, numbering
about seven thousand men, with eight pieces of artillery, were
stationed on Back river, about three miles from Hampton.
His intention was to force an engagement upon the Union
soldiers stationed at Newport News ; or at least destroy the
town, and thus prevent its being used by General Butler's
men as winter quarters. The latter he was successful in
doing ; as not only every house but one was destroyed, but
the long bridge spanning the creek, was burned also. "
The preceding paragraph, and the one which immediately
follows, we quote from "Visitors' Hand Book of Old Point
Comfort. Va., and Vicinity, " by C. W. Betts, of the Hampton
Normal and Agriculture Institute of Hampton, Va. Tlie suc-
ceeding paragraph is the account of the burning of Hampton,
by an officer of the Confederate army, who was an eye-wit-
ness of, and a participant in, the same. His statement is as
follows : " The burning of this beautiful and ancient little
town, was not an act of mere wanton and useless destruction ;
nor was it expected, by those who suggested or carried it into
execution, to have any material effect in crippling the opera-
tion of the Federal army encamped in its vicinity. But, at
that time, the opinion prevailed throughout the North, that
_3i —
the masses of the Southern people, were not in sympathy
with the secession movement, but were led, or rather forced
along, against their will, and convictions, by defeated and am-
bitious politicians. ******
" It became necessary, in some emphatic way, to disabuse
the Northern mind, of this entire misconception of the actual
condition of affairs, and it was supposed that a scene, such
as the burning of a town by its own inhabitants, rather than
have it occupied by an invading foe, would tend greatly to
the accomplishment of the end.
'This step had several times been suggested to General
Magruder, commanding on the Peninsula, and this too,
by residents of the town and county : but he, unwilling to
sacrifice the property of citizens who had already suffered so
much from the ravages of war, had declined to adopt the
suggestion. At length, however, he reluctantly yielded to
the wishes of the people.
**********
" Having stationed a considerable force at the Whiting
Farm, on the New Market road, about five miles from Hamp-
ton, he despatched a battahon of four companies from Colonel
Hodges regiment. Captain Phillips and Good's companies of
cavalry, and Captain Sinclair's company of infantry, to the
accomphshment of the enterprise. Captain Phillips's comp-
any, Old Dominion Dragoons, was raised in the town and
county ; and Captain Sinclair's, the York Rangers, was raised
in the county of York, but officered by men from Hampton ;
the remaining troops were from other portions ^of Virginia.
The whole force was under the command of Colonel Hodges.
**********
"Strong guards were sent out on the Newport News and
Salter's Creek roads, to prevent a surprise from that direction,
as the bridge over the creek which crosses the Back river
-32 —
road, had been burned, and a force obtaining possession of the
New Market road, would effectually cut off their line of re-
treat. A strong picket was also sent out to Hope's farm, on
the road leading north from the town.
"The expedition entered Hampton just after nightfall, on
the 9th of August, 1 86 1, and immediately proceeded to the
work of conflagration. The town as it stood at the time, lay
almost entirely on the western bank of Hampton river, and
was divided into four nearly equal sections, by King and Queen
streets. The plan of operation was simply to assign a detach-
ment to each of these sections with instructions to commence
on the eastern side, and fire the houses as they retired.
"Colonel Hodges halted his battalion at a line of breast-
works thrown up by the enemy just to the westward of the old
church wall, while Captain Phillips took command cf the re
maining troops, and proceeded to the more active work of the
night. After assigning each detachment to its special duty,
he himself, proceeded to the foot of Hampton Bridge, to watch
any demonstration of the enemy, from the direction of Fort
Monroe. After a little brisk firing the Federal pickets retired,
and the Confederates were in undisputed possession of the
town.
"But few of the houses were occupied ; all the arms-bearing
population was in the Confederate army ; most of the non-com-
batants had fled to Williamsburg, Richmond and other places
when the Federal troops had first occupied Newport News,
and the negroes, not carried away by their owners, had, for
the most part, sought the protection of the Federal lines. Thus,
the town was virtually deserted, only a few ^old and infirm
people, remaining in it. But the most painful part of that
night's work, was to inform those few of the dreadful errand
on which they had come.
"No time could be given for the removal of effects ; w tat
wfis to be done, had to be done quickly ; so, in fifteen minutes
after the citizens had been notified to leave, the work of firing
had begun. So finely planned and so admirably executed
were the arrangements for this, that in half an hour every
house had been fired, and before dawn, the pretty little village
was a disfigured heap of smouldering ashes and crumbling
walls. Only five houses remained standing, they, from some
cause, having failed to burn. Of these five, two were torn
down by the Federal troops : and now, there are only two
houses on the eastern side of the river, that were built prior
to the 7th day of August, 1861.
"It is due to the vindication of General Magruder's character,
against the reproaches that have been cast upon it, to say, this
act, since so loudly condenuied, was, at tliat time, received
with cordial .approval. Concurrent testimony amply proves,
that, in many cases, property was fired by the hands of its
owners, or the children of its owners and this, too, with an
alacrity and zeal, altogether unsurpassed. "
From this statement, coming as it does, from an eye-wit-
ness of its horrors, it appears that much of the stigma attach-
ing to Genera] Magruder. and his associates, is undeserved, and
hearing " both sides of the story, " is apt to change the opinion of
those, who have always supposed the burning of the beauti-
ful little town, to have been an act on paii of the Confederates
of wtmton cruelty and uncalled-for vandalism.
For some time after the War closed, Hampton was compar-
atively at a stand-still, and we find nothing worthy of note
concerning it. Its population consisting almost entirely of the
colored element, were chiefly engaged in the humble occupa-
tions of oystering and fishing. Changes in Nations, communities
or families, if they are sudden, bring with them acorrespond-
6
— 34 --
ing degree of joy. if agreeable, or, on the other hand, if tlie
change be not an agreeable one, a depression will inevitably
ensue, Avhich, for a time, paralyzes all exertion, and utterly
prostrates every industry.
This was the state of things financially and conimereially,
in one of the garden spots of our Country, '' the sunny South. "
Here, where everything had been so flourishing, before the
dread Angel of War flajjped his dark pinions over her f;iir
territory, bringing destruction and ruin in his train, a sudden
stagnation succeeded, and business was utterly at a stand-still.
Her wharves, whicli, ere the tocsin of War with its discordant
blast, sounded on the ears of its victims, had been the scene
of the liveliest mercantile prosperity, af'fer the advent of this
dread monster, presented, to the eye of the observer, a dreary
desolation, which could only be conceived by an eye-witness.
Hampton in conjunction with the rest of the South, partook
of this general stagnation, and for years, her improvements
were insignificant. Gradually, however, she recovered from
the shock, and, with the ushering in of the new era, whereby
the down-trodden Africans so long oppressed and imposed
upon, could enjoy, legally, the same privileges and immunities,
as their ever more highly-favored white biethren, a newrrf/ime
was instituted, and improvements, though slow, w^ere sure.
Modern buildings are rapidly supplanting the old houses ;
manufactures of various kinds, and trade generally, continues to
increase ; this is largely owing to the fact, that Northern cap-
italists, with commendable foresight, are beginningto turn tlieir
attention to this promising field of investment, and with their
advent, and the enterprise accompanying it, a career of pros-
perity is opening for Hampton, the evidence of which can be
seen by any one visiting and viewing the town in its present
proportions, and contrasting it with its dimensions as hereto-
fore desi-ribod.
— 35 -
U is now connected by rail and a line of chariots with
Old Point Comfort and by rail with Newport News, of which
more will be said in detail hereafter. This innovation, a pos-
sibility which the wildest imagination would never have deemed
worthy of consideration a moment, a dozen years ago. fully
establishes the fact of its advancement and prosperity.
The Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road have completed a
branch of their road, having Chesapeake City, or Mill Creek,
as it is familiarly called, for its terminus, the station being
r amed Phmbus Station, alter the proprietor of the Hygeia
Hotel. Along its route, for a distance of eighty miles or
more, points of attraction are continually meeting the eye of the
traveler, and by their interest, historically and otherwise, •
amply repay a visit and investigation. Before entering upon
a discussion of their respective merits we will conclrde our de-
i^cription of Hampton. To resume: —
The town contains about three thousand inliabitants, prin-
cipally colored, although, from the facts aready narrated, the
Caucasian element of its population, is rapidly on the increase,
and numbers in its ranks, most of the principal merchants.
There are two principal streets, running at right angles with
each other, forming the chief thoroughfares. The main one,
upon which the bridge opens being named Queen, and its in-
tersecting companion. King. Previous to the War of the Re-
bellion, Hampton, in comparison with its present proportions,
was very Hmited in extent. The two streets just referred to
being the only ones, and, dividing the village, as it then was,
into four equal parts, formed a square. The names given to
these two streets, was in consistency with a custom, prevalent
at the time, of giving to localities, as much as possible, names
of English origin ; the observance of this custom is discernible
in the names of most of the counties of Virginia, and the Eng-
lish inhabitants of Hampton, with the love of their mother
- 36 -
country still ^va^ln in llicir bre;ists, cxliil)it(,'d and perpetuated
the snm<% in the names ofot)jeftmby \vhich they Aveiv sur-
rounded in everyday Hfe, and wiiich continually brouiilit to
mind their bonny island home.
This same feeling is observable in another class of its in-
hatjitants, viz., the negroes. After the War, when Hampton
began to increase in size, and the colored people brL:;.ii lo
form so large a proportion of its populace, tliey erected " shan-
ties" along what were then merely lanes, bestowing upon these
such names as Lincoln, and others of fimiliu' character, having
in them so much relative to such an important era. in the his-
tory of the colored race, and whirh constantly brought io their
minds those patriots, who, Uy the saerilicu of every tomiort
and by the yielding up of life itself, succeeded in eflecting their
eniancipution. -
The town is rapidly increasing its limits towards Newj)ort
News on the west, and the Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road
on the north, It is rapidly comprehending witliin its bound-
aries all it ssuburban surroundings, such as are now known as,
■' Little England, '" and ''Fox Hill, "' and will eventually take
in Newport News itself.
The chief attraction in this town, so pregnant with historic
memories, is Old St. John's Church. "'It is on the right hand
side of Que^ Street a short distance above King. In as brief
a manner as possible, we will give as much of its history, as
we have been able to gather. Under the administration of
Sir Thomas Yeardley, in 1621, there was a law passed that a
house of worship should be erected, and a burial ground set
apart, on every settlement in Virginia. But as Kecoughton
was one of the earliest settled places, it is natural to suppose
that a church was erected some time previous to this date.
The old records place the date at 1620. The new church,
(St. John's), was buiitbetween i658and 1660. The old church
— zi —
wa; on what is known as the " Pembroke farm, " about three-
quariers of a mile from St. John's Chnreh on the same road.
There are a number of old gravestones still on the place.
Among other interments, is that of Sir John Neville, Vice-
Admiral of his Majesty's fleet in the West Indies, who died
hi 1697.
The present Vestry book of the Church dates back no
further than 175 1, the original having been lost or destroyed.
But the records of the Court extend back to 1635, and furnish
interesting and reliable information. The first record we
have is that of the church Wardens presenting to the Court
an unwortliy female in 1644, In the next year we read of a
Rev. Mr. Mallory, as performing service and being remuner-
ated Cor it. In the next year we read of a Rev. .Justinian Aylmer,
who orOciated till 1667. He was succeeded by Jeremiah Taylor
who buried a Mr. Nicholas Baker in the iVew Church of Kich-
otfui, according to a request of the decea.sed in his will. In
the same year, Mr. Robei-t Brough, requests to be buried in
the O/d Church of Kichotan. Thus in tlie same year there
was a new and an old church standing. ■"
Pastors regularly succeeded each other from that time un-.
til the present. Prominent among them was the Rev. Mark
L. Chevers. who served as Chaplain at Old Point Comfort
during the same time, and w^is known and beloved by all tlie
inhabitants. He served from about 18 16 till 1842-43. The
present incumbent, Rev. Mr. Gravatt, succeeded his prede-
cessor in 1876.
It is supposed that the bricks used in the construction of the
edifice, were brouglit from England by the early colonists,
and although the church has passed through various vicissi-
tudes, yet it has withstood the ravages of time, and the as-
saults of frenzied foes, and to-day peacefully reposing annd
its quiet surroundings, near the " City of the dead, "it stands
-38-
tho oldest church iti Amorica.
The British forces Oicupied tliis etiilire during the war of
1812, using it for various purposes, and they destroyed all but
the walls. The framework ol the bell tower became so de-
cayed about this time, that the •• Old Queen Anne " bell, was
taken down, and placed in the angle made by the church and
tower. However it was removed from that position by order
of Major Grutchlield, (who commanded the troops enl'amped
on " Little Elngland Farm ") to the guard-house of that encamj)-
ment, and the tongue becoming loose shortly after, an axe was
used to strike the hours, and the b(^ll cracked. It was recast
in 1825.
The condition of the church at this time being very dilap-
idated, it was determined to repair the same, and a meeting
was called, vestrymen elected, and means sufficient were
raised to defray the expense. Its tribulations, however, w( ii'
not at an end, as atth(> beginning of th(» ^Varofthe Rebellion,
it was set on fire and burnedtotliegroniid by thedoru'cdcTates :
but the Vv'alls were so substantially huiit. that they withstood
even this severe test, and remain a part of tlie present struc-
ture. So intent were its destroyei-s in their wholesale de-
struction of this ancient landmark, that excavations were made
under each of the four corners, to find the corner-stone, in
order to rifle it of whatever treasure.- it possessed ; whettier
the vandals were successful or not, history fails to record.
There are several ancient graves within its enclosure, the old-
est of which is dated 1 70 1. The church is always open to
visitors, the key being found at the residence of the sexton
but a few doors from the church.
The Post Office, Jail and Court House, are situated on King
Street, but a few doors from Queen. The Office of the County
Clerk, is in the second story of the Court House, where may
be seen the old records, some of which are very interesting,
and are shown to visitors, upon application at the clerk's office.
— 39 —
On King Street, a few doors from Barnes's Hotel, stands what
nuiy be considered as being second in importance, in the town
so far as antiquity goes, it beingthe only house left of the original
town. It is a large brick building, old fashioned in style and
substantially built, with high steps in front.
The Baptist and Methodist denominations, have represen-
tative churches in the town, both white and colored. The
Baptist Church (white) is a remarkably tasty structure on King
Street, opposite the Court House. Hampton boasts a very
neat bank ; it is situated on Queen Street; a brick building;
and is one of the ornaments of the town.
Two hotels, Barnes's and the Hotel Comfort, the former on
King Street, a few doors from Queen, and the latter on. Queen
Street, a short distance from the Bridge, and numerous board-
ing houses, in the town and vicinity, offer their accommoda-
tions to the public, and cater to its wants.
Many strange sights meet the eye of the observer, as he
traverses the streets of this little southern town. Some of
them bring back forcibly reminiscences of the days " befo'
de wa'. " In the rear part of the town, removed from its busi-
ness thoroughfares, resides the element of its population whose
mannerisms and peculiarities, preserved to this day as they
wei-^ in " the palmy days of slavery, " produce the impres-
sions to which we have just referred. Their tumbled down
shanties, having nothing in their appearance of either elegance
or refinement, but whose uncouth exterior detracts nothing
from their value in the eyes of their occupants, are in striking
consistency with the manners and characteristics of this prover-
bially happy people. Knowing but little of the usages of so-
ciety, and caring less for its fastidious distinctions, the negro
smokes his pipe, and plays with his wife and children, with as
much gusto, and hilarity, as do his brothers of the white race,
in their elegant parlors, and handsomely ;i])pointed drawing-
— 40 -
rooms. On the stops of these primitive habitations, may be
seen theu' happy occupants, smoking and gossiping over the
little events which interest thorn, alter the day's work is done,
while the children in Paradisaically scant costume, tumble
and roll in merry mirth before the cottage door.
The picture would lack its finishing touch, did it not possess
the inevitable canine as its crowning feature , and scarcely a
family but possesses its " dorg, " whose privileges and liberties,
as regards both eating and sleeping, are regarded as sacredly,
as are those of any of the rest of the household.
]\Iany styles of equipage, which you would fail to find in
the catalogue of any of our fashionable carriage makers, are
to be seen in these southern climes. To those accustomed to
to look upon nothing but the tasty and elegant " turn-outs, "
of the fashionable metropolis, those primitive specimens of
vehicles have a peculiar interest, and are an attractive feature.
Few of them possess any horses, and their only animal of labor,
and also for driving, is the steer. It is ;;musing to see the
ingenuity exhibited by some of these humble laborers, in the
manufacture of wheeled vehicles. All he seems to need is
an axle-tree, and a pair of wheels, and from a few pieces of
lumber, and some nails, he will manuf;u:ture a useful means
of transporting him-elf, and his articles of merchandise, in
which he sits with as lordly a grace, and as much pride, as
though it were a coach and four. Sometimes a box is all
that is seen above the wheels, and perhaps the animal boasts
but one or one and a-half horns, but a "steer's a steer for
a'that, " and whether pleasuring or doing business he is the
negroe's mainstay.
Lying midway between Hampton and Mill Creek, are two
points of great interest nationally and locally. We refer to
the National Home for D. V. Soldiers, and the Hampton Nor-
mal and Agricultural Institute. The entrance to the National
— 41 —
Home, which we will make the first subject of discussion,
is a side road, branching* off from the main road leading
from the Point to Hampton. A large gate-way admits us,
which is surmounted by a wooden semicircle : just inside
of which is a small guard-house surmounted by a statue of
Liberty and used as a rendezvous for the guard while on duty.
A pleasant and beautiful gravel carriage-drive, enables the
visitors to inspect the grounds from their carriages, and thus
gain a general idea of the inclosure, before proceeding to a
more minute inspection on foot.
The home is delightfully situated amid its embowering trees
and shrubbery, facing Hampton Roads, and at the entrance,
of Hampton Greek. Previous to the War, it ^vas known as
the Chesapeake Female College, under the control of the Bap-
tist denomination. It was built in 1857, at a cost of ;^64,ooo,
and was occupied about November of the same year, although
not entirely finished until the winter of 1859-60. It consisted
originally of 40 acres. Here the elite of Virginia's aristocracy
sent their daughters, and their merry ringing laughter resound-
ed thiough these halls in the ante helium days, but with the
brooding of the dark cloud of war, they were put to a far
different use
In October 1861, it was taken possession of by the Govern-
ment, and used as a hospital ; and afterwards used by Gener-
al Schofield as Headquarters. It Avas purchased by General
Butler in 1864, w^ho sold it to the Government for its present
use in 1870, for which they paid him ;^50,ooo.
The Rev. Charles A. Raymond, the former President of
the College, was appointed the first Deputy Governor of this
Branch, January ist 1871. During that year the inmates
numbered 50, but as the place became better known, and its
facilities increased, the number became larger The number
that could be accommodated originally was 350.
— 42 —
On the 17th of January 1873, Captain P. T. Woodfin, the
present Governor, was appointed, and under his able manage-
ment, the capacity of the Home was greatly increased, until
its inmates now number between [2,00 or 15,00. New Bar-
racks and Amusement Hall were built, Library enlarged, and
the accommodations generally of the home, largely increased.
Since its incipiency between 3033 and 4000 .inmates, have
been relieved and cared for. In 1883, the first quarter, the
average number present wfts 1057 ; present and absent, over
1200; whole number cared for 1349. The demand from all
parts of the country were so frequent, and the applications for
admission so numerous, that it became necessary to enlarge
the accommodations, and the main building was remodeled :
on each of the four floors, the whole front of the building is
occupied by broad piazzas, and the strictest attention is paid to
the comfort and convenience of the inmates. New buildings
are constantly being added, taking the place of the unsightly
frame structures, which at the time of its adoption as a home,
were hastily: constructed to meet the emergencies then exist-
ing. The present Officers of the Institution are as follows : —
Captain P. T. Woodfin. Governor ; Wm. Thompson, Treasurer.
Secretary and G, S. ; Doctor S. K. Towle, Surgeon. General
McClellan is the Local Manager.
There are many attractions in the grounds to visitors. The
Main Building. Ward Memorial Hall, Conservatory, Hospital.
Library and Reading Room. We will first visit the Main
Building. It is approached by a broad flight of steps, which
having ascended, w^e stand on the piazza of the second story.
The style of the building, betrays its original use. It has a-
bout it still, the air of an Academy, and the architecture of
the Building is in consistency with its original use. The en-
tire structure is used for company quarters. It is very neat
and clean in all its arrangements, and passing through one
— 43 —
might imagine it to be always " inspection day. " The in-
mates are sitting on their bunks, reading, smoking or engaged
in any occupation suited to their several tastes, and seem con-
tented and happy.
We pass on to the second, third, fourth and fifth stories,
and find them duplicates of the first. From the piazza ot the
fifth story is obtained a magnificent view of the harbor and
Roads. The sight which we can view from this elevated
stand-point, more than repays us for the exertion we have
expended in reaching it.
Far out at sea, the canvas of an approaching vessel may
be seen. It is a picture which must be seen in order to be
appreciated. With the canvas " belhed" out with the wind,
and the sun rays falling upon it with such a beautiful effect,
making her sails seem dazzlingly white, and her keel, hull
and masts, forming such a pleasing contrast, she seems in-
stinct with life, and glides upon the surface ot the water with
a grace and beauty which is almost magical, and to a vivid
imagination seems almost spectral.
When approaching from the mouth of the Bay, her differ-
ent parts loom into view, and her symmetry and beauty be-
come apparent, gradually approaching completeness, it is fitly
einblemized by the unvailing of some mighty statue. The
cloud canvas rolling back gradually, and disclosing the per-
fection of the picture concealed beneath.
A more picturesque view than this Harbor, when it is filled
with these white-winged sea-birds, can scarcely be conceived.
Far as the eye can reach, the tall spire-like masts loom up a-
gainst the horizon, and seem like the steeples of a great city.
At night when each craft hangs out her lights, and twinkling-
ly they glimmer forth into the darkness, the sight, to a spect-
ator at a distance is one long to be remembered ; they seem
like the shifting scenes of a panorama, or the populous streets
— 44 —
of a great city, teeming with life, and brilliantly lighted with
thousands of gas-jets.
Having vieAved the Harbor in all its details, we will next
ascend to the cupola, from which a bird's-eye view of the en-
tire grounds is obtained. The buildings, and the grounds
surrounding them, seen from this altitude, present a very
pleasing picture. Tiie floral - arrangements particularly, are
shown to advantage by the distance, and their beauty is more
decided and apparent than when we are looking at them,
when on a level with them. Not only can our immediate
surroundings be viewed, but the entire country, for miles, as
far as the eye. can reach, lays spread out, like a grand canvas
painting, before us.
The next building to which the gaze and attention of the
observer is drawn is Ward Memorial Hall The Hall was
built from funds bequeathed by Horatio Ward of London.
England. The original amount left was $100,000, which with
its accumulated interest amounted to $1 1 1,000. The amount
was divided among different Branches. The following extract
is taken from the Minutes of the Board of Managers, and may
prove interesting : —
"The President laid before the Board a communication
from Messers Farmer and Robbins, of London, solicitors of
the late Horatio Ward, announcing that the high Court of
Chancery of England, had made^a decree ordering the delivery
of the Bonds named in the Will of said Horatio Ward, being 15
bonds State of Missouri, ;^i 5,000; 25 North Carolina, $25,000:
20 Viriginia, $20,000; 40 Tennesee, $40,000. Total, $100,000;
with accumulated interest amounting to $9,700, in United
States Bonds; and ^250, 9S.6d. cash; to the National Asy-
lum'.
" Whereupon the following resolution was adopted :
''Resolved, That the Board of Managers of the National
— 45 -
Asylum for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers, being found entitled,
under a degree of the high Court of Chancery of England,
dated June 4th, 1870, in the suit of Ward vs McKervan, to the
legacy given by the will of the late Horatio Ward to the Na-
tional Soldiers' and Sailors' Home in Washington, hereby
accept the same in full discharge of the executors of said will,
to wit : Btnjamin Moran Esq. and Henry Powel Esq. ; that
be duly authorized and empowered, as the certain at-
torney of the Board of Managers, to receive the Bonds with
the accrued interest, as invested, and also any cash balance
there may be ; and due acquittance and discharge for the same
to make to the said executors ; and that the power of attorney
accompanied with this resolution, under the seal of the Asy-
lum, and certified by the President and Secretary, be also
signed by the President of the United States, and Secretary
of War, as ex-officio members of the Board.
Resolned : — In grateful acknowledgment of the magnificent
donation to the National Asylum for Disabled Volunteer Sol-
diers, by the late Horatio Ward of London, England, that
a suitable Tablet be inscribed as follows: " The Ward Home
for Disabled Soldiers," and placed upon the principal build-
ing of the Southern Branch."
The above shows the appropriateness of the title bestowed
upon the building, and is also a testimonial to the charity and
benevolence of the donator. In this building is Ihe large, airy,
dining room, containing sixteen long tables capable of seating
1,000 men ; on the same floor is the kitchen containing all the
appurtenances of a first-class hotel kitchen. The bread is
supplied from a Bakery on the grounds, and is of the best qual-
ity. The bill of fare changes daily, and embraces good sub-
.stantial food, such as is calculated to preserve good health and
afford them what is pleasant and palatable.
The Bill of Fare below will give an idea of what they gen-
-46-
erally consist. While it contains few of the luxuries, yet all
its items are healthful and nutritious: —
Breakfast Dinner Svpper
Ham Roast Beef Stewed Prunes
Bread Bread Bread
Potatoes Butter Butter
Eggs Potatoes Cheese
Butter Rice Pudding Tea
Coffee Coffee
There is also a fine Billiard Hall and Theatre in the second
story of the Hall. The Billiard Hall is large and furnished
with first class tables at which the inmates can amuse them-
selves at pleasure. The Theatre is as fine a little Opera House,
as can be found within the limits of any city, and atTords a
means for the gratification of the lovers of the "Drama,"
whose tastes are sometimes catered to by travelling Troupes
of first class ability, and sometimes by the ''Home Troupes,''
ot which there are two connected with the same. Theatrical
and Minstrel. The Offices of the Commandant, Secretary,
Sergeant Major, and Treasurer, are in a neat brick building
called "Headquarters,'' situated to the right of Ward Hall.
The Conservatory, containing a fine collection of rare exotics,
well repays a visit, and here can be purchased flowers made
into any desirable shape.
The Hospital with its world of untold suffering, and manifold
examples of heroism next attracts our attention. Here may
be seen those who for country's sake and Liberty have sacri-
ficed so much of their fives and happiness. What ground-
.vork for tales of fiction of enchancing interest, could the nov-
elist find in many of these unwritten lives, full of romance and
doomed to suffering and death, as the reward of their devo-
tion.
On the second floor of the first building on the left, as we
— 47-
onter the grounds, are the Library, Reading and Smoking
Rooms. The Library has been supported principally by con-
tributions, the first of which was made by the "Ladies Union"
of New York in ig/i. Since then donations have been made
by many parties whose memories of the deeds of valor per-
formed by these heroes, induced them to show, by this means,
a slight appreciation of their merits. Among them may be
mentioned, Mrs. General McGlellan, Mrs. Zollikoffer and Mr.
Albert Crane of New York City, Mrs. Oswin Wells, Mrs. J. Wat-
son Black, Mrs. Whitniore, Mrs. J. H. Goodwin, Miss Batter-
son, and Mr. Black, of Hartford, Conn., and many others.
Governor Woodfin, always anxious to secure every comfort
and enjoyment to the inmates, has taken a great in-
terest in the Library, and has made many choice and interest-
ing additions to the same, till they now number over four
thousand volumes. The works comprise editions in three
different languages — American, German and French. There
are one hundred and forty-six papers taken, twenty-six
of them being daily, five tri-vveekly, and one hundred and fif-
teen weekly ; besides magazines and other periodicals. The
Library is open daily from 8 A. M. to 12 M,, and from i to
5 P. M.; also from 6 to 8 P. M. It is closed on Saturday af-
ternoon from I to 6 o'clock.
Besides the points of interest already described a great
many other attractions present themselves to the visitor, and
claim his attention. A magnificent drive skirts the water's
edge, from which a beautiful view of the Roads and Bay, can
be seen. A beautiful promenade, consisting of a broad board
terrace, runs the whole length of the breakwater, and is used
by the inmates as a promenade, and conduces both to their
health and comfort.
Great care has been taken, and a lavish expenditure has
been made, in tastefully laying out, and beautifully shading
-48-
the grounds, and a more admirably arranged, or more suit-
ably situated object for the purpose for which it was intended,
could not be imagined.
A well organized Fire Department, whose efficacy has been
thoroughly tested, especially in Hampton, at the late fire,
April loth, 1884, where its efficiency and skill wore most
clearly exhibited, adds its quota to the numerous and valu-
able auxiliaries of this Institution, and prove it to be not
merely an ornamenal appendage.
On the grounds a well fitted up, and fully equipped "Sut-
ler Store," furnish the inmates with articles of comfort and
necessity.
The entertainments in "Ward Memorial Hall,'' theatrical
and otherwise, enliven the tedium of an otherwise humdrum
existence, but are by no means the only sources of amuse-
ment, as boating, yatching, fishing and salt-water bathing
(the houses for this purpose being erected on the dock at the
mouth of the creek), combine to render the life of the inmates
pleasant and happy.
Open Air ConverU, by the Military Band connected with
the Institution, from 2 to 4 P. M., daily, (Sundays excepted)
are another pleasing feature of each day's doings in this mag-
nificent evidence of a nation's gratitude to her veterans.
Every Sunday Morning at 9:30 A. M„ an Outside ImpeMion
occurs. In this ceremony about 1,000 of the veterans partic-
ipate, and in their uniforms, grouped about the spacious
walks in companies, afford a picturesque and interesting view
to a spectator.
A great many souvenirs, both fanciful and curious, can be
secured by visitors, from the inmates, many of whom employ
their spare time in this artistic and pleasing occupation. A
farm of 150 acres, about three miles distant from the Home,
from which valuable produce for the consumption of the in-
— 49 —
mates is oblainod, adds to the value of the Home properly.
Taking our leave of the Home grounds, we will next visit
the National Cemetery, where, reposing amid its weeping wil-
lows, and quiet surroundings, sleep our martyred dead. —
Here sleep those Sons of Freedom, whose blood cemented
the foundations of the Nation's superstructure, and achieved
those glorious victories, whose consequences and results will
l)e felt as long as our Republic has an existence.
It is situated on the south-eastern side of the grounds of the
Normal School, and is separated from the Soldiers' Home,
by a narrow inlet of the Hampton Creek. It consists of an
irregular lot, many-sided, six of which are right lines, and the
remainder^ following the windings of the inlet above mentioned.
A desultory glance would convey the idea, that it formed a
parallelogram, twice as long as it w-as wide, but a more careful
examination, would prove its fallacy. It contains 11.61 acres
of level land, and was purchased by tbe United States in 1867
for the sum of ^6,306.
It is enclosed by a rubble stone wall, laid in mortar, and
covered by a rough coping.
Entering on the North side by a gate, w^e proceed to the
Superintendent's Office, and register our names; after which
Sve proceed on our tour of inspection. Flower beds garnish
the sides of the main avenue, which is a broad pathw^ay 20
feet wide. The flag-staff surmounts a mound 350 feet from
the entrance. Large cannon planted vertically flank the
mound on each side. Here paths diverge to both right and
left of the main walk.
A large solid granite monument rises in imposing propor-
tion, near the centre of the grounds, and attracts the eye of
the observer long before he reaches the enclosure of the Cem-
etery. An iron fence, composed of 3 inch rifled cannon
6
— 50 —
(Rodman), and the pickets, musket barrels with bayonets
fixed, enclosing a circular grass plat 74 feet in diameter, forms,
an appropriate surrounding for this colossal memento, erected
to the memory of the Union troops, who fell to defend their
beloved country from disunion and ruin.
This monument is 63 feet in height, and was erected
through the exertions of Miss D. L. Dix of New York.
Entering a cemetery, one naturally looks for mounds sur-
mounting the different graves, betokening the presence of the
quiet sleepers beneath, but we fail to perceive them : and
were we not aware of its character, and were it not ior the
presence of the low tombstones, which stand at the head of
each grave, we would imagine, and reasonably too, that we
were entering some well kept park ; the ground is perfectly
level, and the grass is kept closely cropped and the cemetery
appears carpeted with a beautiful green.
A marked distinction is observable in the southern portion
of the grounds, the headstones here being all composed of
wood, while the rest are stone. A reason for this will in-
stantly suggest itself to the spectator, and it is easily assigned.
The occupants of these graves were Confederates, who died
while prisoners of war, either at the hospital at Camp Hamil-
ton, or Fort Monroe.
That such a marked distinction should exist is to be ex-
tremely deprecated, as it seems to betoken a spirit of revenge,
and unbecoming animosity, which, while it may not be inten-
tional, reflects but little credit upon so great and glorious a
Nation as our own. if for no other reason than a refutation
of this apparent spleen, the matter should be looked into, and
head stones supplied in place of the unsightly wooden ones.
The interments from the Home average five a month.
Nearly 6000 interments had been made up to May ist 1885.
The bodies were brought, in many cases, from the places of
— 51-
original interment in the grounds of the general hospitals in
the vicinity : many from Big Bethel, Newport News, Norfolk,
Craney Island, Portsmouth, and other places.
It is a melancholy reminder of the terrible effects of War,
when red-handed and vengeance-breathing it stalks through
the land, marring its fair beauty, and carrying death and de-
struction in its wake.
On coming out, we see a long frame building with a small
steeple in front. This is Befhesda Chapel, built during the
war, by the Presbyterian Missionary Society of New York, in
which religious services are held every Sabbath morning ai
10-45 -^- M., by the Normal School. It has been twice order-
ed to be removed, but, through the interposition of the offi-
ce's and friends of the School, the order has been counter-
manded each time.
The building has a great many historic interests connected
with it, which make it of more than ordinary moment to the
visitor. One, in particular, we cite. Our martyred and well
beloved Garfield, delivered his hist public address to the Stu-
dents of the Normal School in it, on June 5th 1881, about
one month previous to his assassination. Below is the ad-
dress, given impromptu, and bearing the stamp of philaathropy
ami large heartedness : —
"As I drove through these grounds to-day, I was impress-
ed with the thought that I was between the representatives
of the [)ast and the future. Crippled and bent with service
and years, those veterans, in the Soldiers' Home, represent
the past. You represent the future — the future of your race
— a future made possible by the past, by these graves around
us.
Two phases of the future strikes me as I look over the as-
semblage. For I see another race here ; a race from the far
West. These two classes of the people are approaching the
— 52 -
great problem of humanity, which is Labor, from difforenf
sides.
I put that problem into four words: Labor miisf be free.
And for those of you from the tar West I would omit the last
word, in order to enforce the lesson. To you 1 would say :
Labor mKf<t be!— for you, for all. Without it there can be
no civilization. The white race has learni'd that truth. They
came here as pioneers, felled the forests, and swept away all
obstacles before them, by labor. Therefore to you I would
say that without labor you can do nothiriLr. The first text in
your civilization is ; Labor must be!
You of the African race have learned this text, but you
learned it imder the lash. Slavery taught you that labor
must be. The nn^hty voice of war spoke out to you, and to
us all, that labor must be forever //Te,, The basis of all civi-
lization is that Labor must be. The basis of eveiything great
in civilization, thegloiy of our civilization, is, that Labor must
be free.
I am glad that Ceneral Armstrong is working out this prob-
lem on both sides — reaching one hand to the Soutli, and one
hand to the West — with all the continent of Anglo-Saxon
civilization behind him : working it out in the only way it
can be worked out — the way that will give us a rountiy with-
out sections, a people without stain."
The Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute, next enga-
ges our attention. Situated about two and a-half miles from
Old Point Comfort, on an estate of one hundred and twenty
acn>s, on what was once known as "Little Scotland," it was
during the Civil War, known as "Gamp Hamilton," the base
Hospital of the Army of the James. As many as i5,(X>osick
and wounded Union soldiers, were gathered here, and cared
for, at one time.
The estate was purchased in the summer of 1867 for ;^i9,-
000. Through its trustee, Hon. Josiah King, ;$io,ocx) of this
amount was paid by tlie "Avery" fund, and the remainder,
by the Missionary Association of New York. The necessary
5 J
buildings were erected, and Uie school wiis formally opened,
in April, 1868, with fifteen scholars and two teachers. In
June 1870. the Institution was chartered by the General As-
sembly of Virginia. This Charter created a corporation, hav-
ing power to choose its own successors, and exempting its
property from taxation. The Board consists of seventeen
members, who hold and control the entire property of the
School, by deed from the American Missionary Association.
In March 1872, the General Assembly granted the Institu-
tion one-third of the Agricultural College land grant of Virgin-
ia. This share, comprising one hundred thousand acres, was
sold two months afterward for ;^95,ooo. Nine-tenths of this
sum was invested in State bonds paying an annual interest of
6 per cent. The other tenth was used in the purchase of
additional land, swelling the size of the home farm to one
hundred and ninety acres. The annual interest is paid by
the State, and supplies one-fifth of the running expenses of
the School.
The expenditures must be ratiiied by a Board of six cura-
tors (three of whom may be colored) appointt^d by the Gov-
ernor every four years. Besides the property immediately
attached to the Home, about four miles from Hampton there
is a grain farm of six hundred acres, worked by students, and
called the "Hemenway" farm. The entire property of the
fn.stitution valued at some $400,000, with the exception of
about $45,000. has been paid for by private subscription.
Each contributor receives an annual report of the receipts and
expenditures, salaries, as well as the gain or loss of each
branch of industry.
The prime object of the Institution, is to furnish the Negro
race with a corps of competent, energetic, practical teachers :
but the demand greatly exceeds the supply, and is increasing
yearly.
— 54 -
In April, 1878, Indian students were first admitted, the first
arrival of which, consisted of seventeen Arapahoe, Cheyenne^
and Kiowa warriors, taken from a band of fifty, who had
been held as prisoners of war at St. Augustine, Florida, for
three years, under Capt. R. H. Pratt, ot the U. S. Army. The
good accomplished with these, the most savage of the Indian
race, led to still further efforts on their behalf, and now the
number of Indian students is 108, representing both sexes-
fifteen agencies, and as many different tribes. The students
for the year ending June 30th, 1883 were as follows : —
Negro Students Male 277
'• " Female 198—475
Indian Students Male 66
Female 41 — 107
II
Total 582
This shows the vast amount of good which is being accom.
plished, and which may well fill the hearts of those engaged
in the enterprise, with pride and gi-atitude.
Of the 50 officers and teachers in class room, agricultural
workshop, and housekeeping departments, 1 3 are graduates
of the School. Ninety per cent, ot the four hundred and fif-
ty-two graduates are teaching, or have taught in this and
neighboring states.
Classes may be visited each week-day, except Monday, be-
tween 10:30 and 12 o'clock A. M.
The work shops may be visited any week-day, morning or
afternoon.
The dinner hour is 12:20 P. M., at wliich time all the stu-,
dents assemble in the large dining room in Virginia Hall. On
Saturday's only, the School Band plays during this hour. Bat-
talion Drill on Saturdays, from 4 to 5 P. M. Insjjection every
morning, except Sunday and Monday, at 8:15. Church Ser-
— 55 —
tnce,s in the chapel in the National Cemetery, on Sunday
m )rnings, at 20:45 o'cloek. Seats free.
Starting on our tour of inspection, after visiting the Offices
of the Principal and Treasurer, situated in a plain and sub-
stantial brick building facing Hampton Greek, we will first
visit the Library and Reading Room, on the upper floor of
this building. Many curiosities of both African and Indian
origin are here arranged in groups in show-cases ; together
with 2600 volumes, and many of the leading newspapers and
periodicals of the day. The Post Office is also in this build -
mg.
We will next proceed to Academic Hall, situated between
the Office building and the Saw Mill. It is divided into class-
rooms,w}iilc on the upper floor is a large room for prayer meet-
ings and other purposes. The Huntington Industrial Works,
the munificent gift of C. P. Huntington, Esq., President of the
(Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road Company, next engages our
attention. Here are manufactured window-sash, door-frames,
scroll work, and mouldings. Roth white and colored me-
chanics are employed here. The lower floor is used for the
manufacture and dressing of plain lumber ; the second floor
for circular sawing, scroll sawing, turning. &c., while the
third floor is used as a store and drying room. Mr. Albert
Howe is business manager of this department.
The new Machine Shop, in charge of Mr. J. R. H. Goff, is
the next point of attraction. All ihe gas and steam fitting,
also the repairing of machinery, is done here. Leaving this
building we pass, on our way, two frame cottages called
-Marquand"' and "Graves" cottage respectively. They con-
tain boys' domitories.
-56-
The next place which engages our attention, is The "Stone"
Memorial Building, which was erected by the liberal contri-
bution of Mrs. Valeria Stone of Maiden, Mass., who gave
$20,000 tow^ard its erection. "We come first to the Girls In-
dustrial Room and Sewing and Tailoring Department. Here
all tiie mending and making of garments are done, and uni-
lorins for the sudents are made. Here also we can purchase
souvenirs of our visit to this Institution — articles made by
Indian and colored students — such as decorated pottery,
paper knives, dressed dolls, needle handiwork, &c. Miss M.
T. Galpin has general charge, and Mr. R. H. Hainillon is in
charge of the Tailoring Department. On the same floor is
the Knitting Department, where the manufacture of mittens
is carried on.
We next visit the Printing Office and Book Bindery on the
first floor also. Two large cylinder and two job presses run
by steam, despatch mechanical printed matter of every de-
scription. From tw'elve to fifteen hands are at work, bo h
colored and Indian. This department publishes two periodi-
cals, tlie Soidhern Workman and the African licjjository a
quarterly magazine of the American Colonization Society.
Samples of each will be furnished upon application. The Of-
fice is in charge of G. W. Belts Esq. The upper floors are
used for dormitories.
The next building is the Conservatory, built in 1883. Here
can be obtained cut flowers in any shape desired. The Wig-
wam built in 1876 and containing dormitories for the Indian
boys, and the Barn built in 1878, next attract our attention.
Here can be seen specimens of the finest breed of cattle,
swine an poultry. In rear of the Barn, on the corner facing
the Main Road to Hampton and Old Point Comfort, is the
Indian Training Shop, containing Carpenter Shop on the firet
floor. Harness and Tin Shops ; on the second floor the Shoe
— 57 -
Department. There is also a Paint Shop connected with the
establishment. In an adjoining building is the Wheelwright
and Blacksmith Shops.
The Gymnasium and Laundry between -the Training Shop
and Bciler House, are the next objects of interest. We have
now exhausted all the points of interest, save two. '"Wixona"
Lodge and Virginia Hall, the latter, the largest and hand-
somest building on the grounds. The former we will visit
first It was built in 1882, and is intended for Indian girls
only. We next enter Virginia Hall by an enclosed walk,
and taking our position on the front porch we witness the
procession of the students marching to dinner, led by the
School Brass Band composed of 16 pieces. This is only on
Saturdays. They file into the large dining room, and at the
tap of the bell all is profound silence.
At a signal, the entire school join in a vocal thanksgiving
for the food, the impressiveness of which must be witnessed,
in order to be appreciated. At the tap of the bell, the stu-
dents are all seated, and do ample justice to the healthful and
nutritious food, placed in abundance before them.
The building is 190 feet front by 40 feet in width, with a
wing of 100 feet running to the rear. The Bakery and Com-
missary Department are in the basement. The teachers'
and students' dining rooms are on the first floor. The sec-
ond and third floors contain the rooms of the teachers an i
colored students. On this floor are also the teachers, and
scholars' parlors. A large and well lighted chapel, with a
.sitting capacity of 800, is on the third floor. The funds for
the erection of this building were the proceeds of a three
years' singing tour of the "Hampton Students," and was
erected in 1874.
The Boiler and Gas House are immediately in the rear of
Virginia Hall, and supplies the heat for it and Wiona Lodge ;
7
-58-
it also supplies gas for all the principal buildings on the place.
It has a capacity of 5000 lighls. The bricks used in the erec-
tion of these buildings were mostly made by the students on
the school grounds.
The last building which engages our attention. is at the en-
trance of the grounds, and is named the /Butler" Sciiooi.
House, Avhich was erected by the Government during tlie
war as a school for contrabands, and named after General
Butler, who was then in charge of aiTairs. It is now used as
a day school, maintained by the county for six months in the
year, and the Normal School for three months, which supplies
the teachers. The best time for visiting this school is about
I2;30 P. M. There are kitchen and garden drills, and singing
fiom 12:30 to 1:30 P. M.. on Mondays and Wednesdays.
The head of the institution, through whose able manage-
ment it has prospered, to whose unwavering zeal much of its
success is due, and whose tireless energy has placed it upon a^
foundation challenging the admiration and gratitude o( all in^
terested in these wards of the Nation, is the Principal, Gen-
eral S. C. Armstrong, whose efforts are ably seconded by th«
Treasurer, General .J. F. B. Marshall, and whose care of the
financial interests of the concern, adds no small quota to its
prosperity. The Business Manager, Mr. (1 F, Briggs, super-
intends generally the various departments, under whom are
able and competent assistants.
Just at the turn of the road, we see, on our left, the old Tyler
mansion, the former residence of our ex-President; next we
come to the Bridge spanning Hampton Greek. It has been
moved a little beyond the site occupied by the old bridge ex-
isting in the days of General Magruder, but some of the old^
posts are still standing, and can be seen at low tide. Crosse
ing the Bridge we are in the town of Hampton, a sketeh of
which has already been given.
— 59 —
The extension of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, from
Richmond, through the counties of Henrico. Charles City,
New Kent, James City, York, Warwick and Elizabeth City,
to Newport News and thence to Phoebus Station, Old
Point, opens an interesting and historical country to the visi-
ters at our summer resort,the Hygeia Hotel, whose enterpris-
ing head, H. Phoebus, Esq., furnishes communication by Om-
bus with Phoebus Station, and thus opens this repository of
interest and beauty to all his patrons.
Entering the train of which there are two daily, a ride of
from twenty-five minutes to half an liour brings us to New-
port News, whose mercantile and commercial advantages are
recognizable at a glance. A short historical sketch of it may
not come amiss. About the beginning of the seventeenth
century. Captain Newport landed on the ^northeastern shore
of the James River, bringing supplies and fresh colonists, to
the teeble remnant of the first colony planted there. The
spot where he landed is about nine miles from Fortress Mon-
roe, and has ever since been known by the odd name of
Newports News,or, as it is now commanly abbreviated,Ncw-
port News.
There is no where in the world a place that seems better
fitted io be the center of an extensive commerce ; where the
largest ships in the world could float at wharves of ordinary
length. The point has a rounded outline, with a beautiful
beach, over which the water ripples without a stain. Only a
dozen yards from the shore the natural depth is sufficient for
vessels of looo tons burden, and increases rapidly in advanc-
ing toward mJd-chaunel. On the left lie Hampton Roads,
Newport News being its upper limit. In that part of
Hampton Roads, just below Newport News, occurred the fa-
mous battle between the Meriimac and Monitor,a description
of whicti is given in our first cliapter.
— 6o-
The shore of Newport News rises abruptly from the beach,
in a small bluff about twenty-five feet high, beyond which
lies a broad and level plateau; the elevation of which increas-
es toward the erist, until it attains an altitude of about forty
feet. The inclination from the rear of the proposed city to
the shore, will be verj' gentle, and drainage perfect.
It has never been a place of much importance, and its ad-
vantages, commercially and otherwise, have been but lately
discovered and recognized. The land upon which the city
stands, is owned by the Old Dominion Limd (Company, and
abcut one thousand acres have been regularly laid out in
streets and avenues, the majority of Avhich are graded. Many
have been the improvements in the last four years. Hand-
some residences and stores, both brick and frame, have been
erected, wharves whore ships of the largest tonnage land and
discharge their cai'goes, a gigantic grain elevator, and numer-
ous other improvements, give an air of mercantile import-
ance and commercial prosperity, to a neighborhood, which,
previous to the *ime mentioned, consisted of nothing but va-
cant lots.
The importance and value of its magnificent water front
was recognized by those who were pioneers in the opening
up of this embryo metropolis, and was evidenced by the fact
that before a house or store was erected, an immense cover-
ed wharf 700 feet 6 inches long, and 132 feet wide, was built.
"A large coal pier — 8(X) feet long and 50 feet wide — has
also been erected. This has two tracks in the centre, and
one raised on each side ; being constructed to move the cars
by gravity. It is 30 feet high, and vessels are loaded by the
twelve chutes from the cars. In the rear of this pier is a
mamoth coal pocket, 12,009 ^^^t in length, 70 feet wide, and
35 feet high."
— 6i —
"There is also another covered wharf used by the Old Do-
minion Steamship Company. This is 800 feet long and 162
feet wide, and is used as a passenger pier. It is two stories
high, and connected with a six-story grain elevator 385 X90
feet, which has a capacity of 1,500,000 bushels."
Vessels of the largest tonnage can approach these wharves
at any time, there being 28 feet of water at low tide. English,
American, Brazilian, and in fact almost every description of
merchantmen, land at the wharves and discharge their cargoes.
A line of Brazilian steamers lands here. A park, which has
been partially completed, is an attractive feature, and adds to
beauty of the city.
The unequalled natural advantages need not be dwelt up-
on ; the harbor on which it is situated, being the finest in the
world, and the only one in the United States which can be safe-
ly entered without a pilot. There is no bar at the entrance of
Chesapeake Bay, and a dozen navies could ride there abreast.
The News is but fifteen miles from the open sea, while New^
York is twenty, Boston about fifty, Philadelphia about one hun-
dred, and Baltimore one hundred and sixty. These consider-
ations afford a basis for judgment, and prove conclusively,
this spot in our country destined to have a glorious liistor>'
in the future of our nation.
Continuing our railway journey, about 17 rtiiles from New-
port News, we reach Lee Hall in York County, five miles to
the left of which is Yorktown, famous both as being the scene
of the surrender of Cornwallis, and also the centennial in
1 88 1. A memorial column, commemorative of the great
event, recently ordered by Congress, is in process of erec-
tion.
Nine miles further on we come to Williamsburg, contain-
ing many interesting relics of Revolutionary times, as well as
historic reminiscences of the early history of the colonies.
— 62 —
This place, called "Middle Plantations," when first settled by
colonists from Jamestown, in 1632, is now a quaint, unique
town, of 1200 or 1500 inhabitants — quiet, dreamy and bear-
ing about its very atmosphere an air of repose, pregnant,
however, with historic interest. Suggestions of "days that
were," meet us on every side, and seem to render even its
dwellings and thoroughfares, ancient and antiquated. Relics
of the pomp and glory of King and Crown, long since depart-
ed, still exist even in the names ot streets, and such names
as, "Duke of Gloucester," "Queen," "Henry," and "Palace,"
seem to carry us back to the days, when good Queen Bess,
George IV, and their compeers, reigned in regal splendor, and
exercised their sway over our fair territory.
In 1698, the seat of government was removed here by
George Nicholson, after the Jail and Statehouse at Jamestown,
had been destroyed by fire; Williamsburg, being "healthier,
more convenient, and free from moschetoes." Here the roy-
al functionary held his mimic court, small but brilliant, and
gay with the court costumes of the period — especially dur-
ing the sessions of the House of Burgesses, when the streets
were alive with chariots and coaches of the nobility and gen-
try, with cavaliers magnificently mounted, and when every
house displayed a profuse and costly hospitality.
Interesting and historic remnants still remain. On Glou-
cester street, is the site of the old Capitol, burnt in 1746,
rebuilt and again burnt in 1832 A few years later, a female,
college was erected on the same spot, and that too, was de-
stroyed during the late war. Diagonally across the street
may still l)e seen the old Chancery-Office, now a private
residence, remodelled, but containing the English bricks and
timbers which composed the original structure. Bdiei^/i l\iv-
ern, the scene of many a midnight revel, and containing com-
mittee rooms of patriots, who within their walls discussed the
-63-
interests of the feeble eolonists, is now used as a store-tiouse.
Here Ricliard Henry Lee originated tlie plan of corresponding
committees among the colonies. Higher up the street is the
identical magazine from which, in 1775, Lord Dunmore re-
moved the powder belonging to the colony, and stored it on
the Magdalen sloop-of-war, an act which roused the indigna-
tion of the country, almost as much as the first shot at Fort
Sumter, in 1861. It is now used as a stable, and the boys
call it The Old Powder Horn. The Colonial Court House,
the site of Dunmore's palace, the old Masonic Hall, Tazewell
Hall, and especially the ivied church, built in 1680, of im-
ported bricks, with its mural tablets, and its church-yard filled
\ ith antique tombstones with their queer inscriptions, will
afford a fund of interest for the traveler, and give him food
l( r abundant mental reflection. Here also is the seat of Wil-
liam and Mary College, chartered February 19th, 1693, three
times burned, (in 1705, 1859. and 1862,) and it awakens a
deeper interest, and excites more curiosity, than all the other
b; ildings combined. From this institution, four signers of the
I (jclaiation of Independence, three Presidents of the United
£ ates, one Chief-Justice, two United States Attorney-Generals,
twenty members of the United States House of Representa-
tives, fifteen United States Senators, seventeen Governors of
Virginia and other states, thirty-seven judges of the United
States and Virginia, and Lieutenant General Winfield Scott of
the United States Army, received their degrees. The pre-
sent structure contains the original walls, so often tested by
fire. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum, in Williamsburg, is the
oldest institution of its kind in America, having been founded
in 1773-
The battle of Williamsburg, was fought May 5th, 1862, be-
tween McClellan's advance and Johnston's rear guard, under
Lon, street, and was claimed as a victory by both sides, serv-
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ing as a temporary check in the advance on Richmond. Be-
tween Oriana and Newport News, two miles to the left of the
road, is Big Bethel, the scene of the first important battle after
the fall of Smnter in 1861.
In the neighborhood of Williamsburg is the site of James-
town, a spot of more than ordinary interest, the only rel-
ic of which is a ruined church tower. Unless measures are
taken to preserve it, this too will soon disappear, and naught
but water, cover a tract of country, brimming full of historic
recollections, having been the scene of so nmch endu-
rance and so many victories in the history of our forefa ' s.
Two engagements occurred near Jamestown just before the
battle of Yorktown — the first, on June 25th, 1781, between
Lieut. Col. Butler, of the Pennsylvania line, and Lieut. Col.
Simcoe, of the British army, resulting in a drawn battle, the
former supposing that he was only attacking the rear-guard
of the enemy, when, in fact, he was engaging the main body
of Cornwallis' army. Night saved LaFayette from destruc-
tion.
Beyond the Chickahominy lies the county of New Kent,
also historic ground. At the residence of a Mr. Ghamber-
layne, in this county, Washington met the Widow Curtis,
whom he aflewards married at the White-House, on the
Panumkey river, where McClellan had his base of supplies in
1 862. On Wall Creek, in New Kent, is the Mysterious Stone
House, of doubtful origin, but supposed to have been built
by Capt. John Smith as a fort. It is perhaps, the most curi-
ous historic relic in Virginia, an enigma at best.
We next enter Charles City County, one of the original
shires into which Virginia was divided, in 1634. Though
shorn of its original proportions, it is redolent of Colonial and
Revolutionary history, and enjoys tlie reputation of being the
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birtliplace of two presidents of the United States — viz., Wm.
Henry Harrison and John Tyler. The fathers of these presi-
dents were as illustrious as their sons. Benjamin Harrison,
a member of the Continental Congress, would have been pres-
ident of tliat body after the death of his brother-in-law, Peyton
Randolph, had he not yielded in favor of John Hancock, and
declined to allow his name to be put in nomination. It was
Benjamin Harrison, who, in July of that year, reported the
Declaration of Independence framed by Thomas Jefferson.
In 1772 he became Governor of Virginia, and was accounted
one of the best the State ever had. John Tyler, Sr., (father
of the President), a leading patriot of the Revolution, was
elected Governor in 1 808, and afterwards was United States
District Judge. President Tyler was born on James river five
miles below Berkely, the birthplace of President Harrison.
Passing from Charles City county, and crossing the Chick-
aliominy at the Long Bridge, now Roxbury Station, we enter
Henrico County. This station i= not far from the spot v:hcre
Capt. John iSmith iras captured by the Indians. Many points
of interest during the memorable campaign of 1864 — viz.,
Bethesda Church, Second Cold Harbor, Fort Harrison, and the
Dutch Gap Canal, are within easy horseback rides of stations
along the line of the Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road.
Within easy distance of the railway, are the scenes of the
famous Seven Day\s Battles Around Richmond, beginning with
Mechanicsville, June 26th, 1862 f Gaines's Mill and Cold Har-
bor June 27th ; Savage Station June 29th ; Frazier's Farm,
June 30th, and ending at Malvern Hill, July ist, 1862. The
details of these battles, long since familiar to every American
school boy, render their names topicts of interest, and throw
around them a halo of histpric importance which must ever
make them objects of research, and points of never failing
attraction to the traveler, McClellan was driven to the shel-
8
— 66-
ter of his gunboats at Harrison's Landing, on the James, and
the capitol of the Confederacy was temporarily saved.
It is related that at Frazier's Farm, or Glendale, as it is
some times called, Stonewall Jackson, exhausted with loss of
sleep, for the first and only time failed to respond to Gen.
Lee's order, and did not cross the Chickahominy, thus en-
abling McClellan to rally at Malvern Hill, which lies two miles
to the right of the road. The Confederates here met with a
severe repulse. From Harrison's Landing, or Westover, Mc-
Clellan embarked to join Pope in Northern Virginia.
About seven miles from Richmond, at Fort Lee Station,
is the battle-field of Fair Oaks or Seven Pines, fought May
31st, 1862, in which Gen. Joseph E. Johnston was wounded.
an accident which brought Gen. R. E. Lee to the front, and
gave the army of Northern Virginia its renowned conmiander.
(Continuing our journey, on the right of Church-Hill Tunnel. '
lies Powhatan, the residence in former years of the Mayo fam-
ily — a spot named for the Indian Chief, the father of Poca-
hontas, who here held his court. Here too, it is said, the
rescue of Smith took place, and the story wtiether mythical or
otherwise, is dear to the hearts of all Virginians. A few miles
further, and we dash into the city of Richmond, the Keystone
of the Rebellion, and holding within its limits a wealth of
historic recollections, which to the antiquarian, affords a fund
of useful and entertaining information.
Having thus given our traveler an insight into the sur-
roundings of Fort Monroe, we will make a retrograde move-
ment, and come back to Old Point which having discussed
in its geographical and geological outlines, we will enter the
Fort itself.
Old Point Comfort, is situated at the extremity of a level,
sandy beach, from the southern end of the western shore
• . -67-
of the Chesapoake Bay. Its geographical position is, 37°2'
North Latitude, and 76° 12' West Longiturle, from the merid-
ian of Greenwirh. The peninsula is almost entirely surround-
ed by water. The exception to this, is a strip of beach, some
400 yards wide, which runs to the north and looks eastward.
Over this strip of beach, during heavy easterly storms, with
a full spring tide, the sea washes, rendering at such times,
the peninsula, an island. On the east, northeast, and south-
east, are the waters of the Chesapeake Bay. On the south
and southwest, are those of Mill Creek, w^hich empties into,
and is fed from, the Hampton Roads. The connections of
the peninsula with the main land, are by the narrow strip of
land above referred to, and by a bridge over Mill Creek, ap-
proached by an artificial causeway, some half mile in length.
The fort is built at the extremity of the peninsula and com-
mands the entrance to Hampton Roads, into which empties
the water of the James, Elizabeth and Nansemond rivers.
The waters on all sides of the fort are salt, augmented or
diminished in intensity by the fresh water floods coming
dow^n the James river; though at all times, and in all tides,
they are highly saline. The country between the point of
the peninsula and York river, distant twenty miles north,
and thence across to the James, is cut up by numerous small
-streams, which are more or less brackish, as the rains are
profuse or scanty.
These small streams all communicate w'ith the Chesapeake,
Hampton Roads, or the James. The land upon which the
fort is built is some four feet above mean liigh-water mark.
Salt marshes are on the northesist of the fort, but these seem
to have but little, if any effect, upon its sanitary condition.
The geological formation of the peninsula upon which the
fort is built, is ocean sand resting upon marl impregnated clay.
Boring to the depth of 8oo feet, within the inclosure of the
— 68 —
fort, has shown nothing but sand, lyhig upon marl impreg-
nated clay, with here and there small veins of sharp bitiish
sand ot fine grain, admirably adapted for polishing and
grinding metals. The country on the main land is flat, and
there are no hills within a radius ot eight or ten miles. The
soil to the north of Mill Creek, which bounds the reservation
in that direction, is aluminous and quite productive, giving,
under favorable circumstances, abundant yields of wheat,
corn, oats, potatoes, as well as cf all the market vegetables.
There are few portions of the country more suitable for truck-
ing farms than the vicinity of Fort Monroe, there being no
rocks of any description in the neighborhood.
The whole country to the north and northwest of the fort,
is underlaid by extensive becis of marl, at depths varying
from 20 to 50 feet. The water procurable from wells, on
the mainland, is. in consequence, quite unpalatable, and re-
course has therefore to be made to cisterns for a supply of
drinking water. All, previous to the war of secession, who
possessed the means, erected them for the purpose of collect-
ing rain-water. On the Chesapeake Bay beach, distant some
2000 yards to the north, are heavy sand hills, and on and
around these are found live oaks as well as the southern pine.
This is said to be the most northern position in the United
States at which the live oak is to be met with.
In the gardens of the fort are to be found numerous fig
trees, which flourish exceedingly well, though the fruit crop
of them cannot be relied upon, as the late frosts of spring oft-
entimes destroy them. The forests and woodlands in the
neighborhood, on the mainland, furnish the varieties of forest
trees, bushes and shrubs usually met with in the middle re-
gion of the United States.
The waters surrounding the fort are well stocked with fish,
principally rock, sheephead, bay mackerel, trout, white perch,
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sun, spot, hog, chub, green flounders, moss-bunkers, and,
toad. Porpoises are quite numerous, and white shark not
scarce. Grabs, both hard and soft, largely abound. Oys-
ters cover the banks where the water does not run too fast
and the bottom is not sand; they are highly prized in all the
markets. Those growing in Lynnhaven Bay, are by many
considered to be the most delicious procurable in any part of
the country. The birds are those common to the water as
well as to the land ; in the immediate vicinity of the fort only
the tame kinds are to be met with. Gulls, apparently of many
varieties, are constantly flying over the water.
The climate of Old Point is comparatively mild. The
winters are open, and the thermometer, except in very rare
cases, does not fall below 12° F. The duration of the cold
periods seldom passes seventy-two hours, when the cold
snaps give way and the mercury indicates an increase of tem-
perature. The cold is, however, felt more perceptibly than in
those regions where it is continuous. A continued frigid at-
mosphere to which the system becomes tempered is not only
healthy but pleasant, but the fickleness of the Southern at-
mosphere in this section, is one great drawback to an other-
wise almost faultless climate, and the system is far more
.^susceptible to the influence of a decrease of temperature than
it is in the more ncrthern latitudes. There is but little snow
here, and that which falls remains upon the ground but a
short time.
The summers are long and hot. The summer heat com-
mence in the early part of May, and continues until the
latter part of September. During the months of June, July
and August the heat is oppressive, and, were it not for the
sea breeze, which commences to blow about 9 o'clock in the
morning, would be almost unendurable. Within the walls of
the fort the heat is much more oppressive than without them,
— 70 —
as they serve to obstruct, in a great measure, the free range
of the breeze which may be blowing. When on the beach
or anywhere outside the temperature may be quite pleasant,
within the inclosure it will be most oppressive. At night,
however, the reverse holds, as a damp, murky atmosphere
arises from the ground, imparting a chilly sensationwith a feel-
ing of moisture. There is, at night, a diff(!rence of two or
three degrees in the temperature inside and outside of the
fort.
During the winter season too, the temperature lowers
within the walls, and the ground is much damp(?r than when
it is exposed to the unrestrained influence of wind and sun.
The mean annual temperature of 1867 was 58.i9°F. warmest
day of the year was July 6. when mercury indicated 90° F.
The coldest day was January 19, when the mercury at 7 o'clock
A. M., indicated 14° F. The mean annual temperature of
1 868 was 58.30° F. The warmest day was July 15, when
the mercury indicated 92° F. The coldest day was Decem-
ber 25, when the mercury at 7 o'clock A. M., indicated 19° F,
The amount of rain wich fell in 1867 was 64.26 inches. The
greatest monthly amount of rain during the year was in Au-
gust, when 1 1.40 inches fell. The amount of rain which fell
in 1868 was 44.41 inches. The greatest monthly ain junt of
rain in 1868 was in July, when 6.94 inches fell. The barom-
eter ranges from 29.25 inches to 30.60 inches, which are the
extremes reached here, as indicated by the record of four years,
and afford a criterion upon which to base a judgment of the
variations of heat and cold to which the extremes of the cli-
mate extend. Frequently the spring is much later than in
other climates, vegetation very often not commencing till late
in April, though sometimes prior to this time there are warmer
periods sufficiently long to cause a budding and incipient blos-
soming of the fruit trees, which are subsequently blighted by
— 71 —
severe frost.
The prevaling winds of spring and summer are southeast
and southwest; those of fall and winter, east, northeast, and
northwest. The easterly winds are the severest in February
and March, and with them come diseases of the throat and
lungs to both adults and infants. With the latter croup is
most common in February and early March, when the winds
chilled by the icebergs on the binks, continue blowing from
the northeast for several successive days.
Having thus given in a general way the facts attending a
journey to Fort Monroe, and detailed some of the phases to
be met with by the traveler we will in our next chapter con-
duct him through the Fort itself, and relate in minutiae the
data relating thereto.
CHAPTER III.
Fort Monroe.
Fii-iSt ftmone thf lortresnea which guard our Nation's coast,
Monroe in mighty gnindeur stands ; King of all the rest.
Laved on all Bides by its moated waters' ceaseless flow,
Over crystal Chertapeal^ , a sileiit sentinel
It stands, Columbia's faithful guard, in whom she trusts secure.
Fort Monroe, the geographical position of which has been
given, and wiiose geological formation has been treated of
elsewhere, was projected, with others, to cover the interioi-
navigation, between Chesapeake Bay and the Southern States :
to secure the roadstead and point, serving as the connect-
ing link between the middle and southei n coast as a naval
place of arms, whence that arm of the public may operate,
in defence of commerce and the public establishments at
Norfolk, and such as were contemplated in James River :
also to prevent an enemy making a lodgement in the direc-
tion of Norfolk.
Various Boards, both Military and Naval, had made these
points the subject-matter of reports, ever since the close of the
war with Great Britain, which closed in 1815. Experiences
in that struggle, having taught them the importance of proper
sea-coast defences, the attention of the Government was called
to the fact, and accordingly on the i8th of January, 18 17, the
Secretary of the Navy transmitted to the Senate, opinions of
the Boaid for the selection of a site for a naval depot and de-
fensive works on the Chesapeake Bay.
— 73 —
The Senate, by resolutions, dated respectively, Feby. 13th
1 8 17, and April 20th, uSiS, directed the President to cause
the survey of Hampton Roads, and York River, together with
some other localities, with a view of ascertaining the practica-
bility of defending the same by fortitications. In pursuance
of this instruction, Brigadier Generals Swift and Bernard,
Colonels Armistead and McKee, of the Engineers, were ap-
pointed commissioners, to co-operate with Captains Warring-
ton and Elliott of the Navy, for the purpose of examining and
surveying Hampton Roads and York River, and reporting how
far it was practicable to defend said Pvoads and river,by forti-
tications.
The reports of Ihe Boards were made in 1819 and 1820,
and were voluminous and exhaustive, and embraced the in-
ception of the present system of sea-coast defenses of the
United States.
it is said to be traditional in the records of the Engineer
Department, that Fort Monroe was planned by Gen. Simon
Bernard, of the U. S. Engineers, formerly an officer under
Napoleon I, in the Imperial Army of France. The drawings
were made by Captain W. T. Poussin, of the Topographical
Engineers, and Acting Aid to Gen. Bernard. In a report of
a Board of Officers, on the subject of Military defenses.
May loth, 1840, an apology is made for its magnitude.
Materials having been accumulated at Old Point Comfort,
Va., during the fall and winter of 1818, the construction of the
Fort was actually commenced in March [819, under Major
Chas. Gratiot, Corps of Engineers ; and from 1822, until Feb-
ruary 1824, all able-bodied soldiers, serving on the Atlantic
coast, who were sentenced by Courts-Martial to hard labor,
for periods exceeding six months, were employed on the
work.
It was named "Fort Monroe," in honor of James Monroe
o
-74 —
who was the President of the United States, when its con-
struction was commenced. The first appropriation bill, in
which the Fort is specifically mentioned, is that of March.
1 82 1. Previous to this date appropi-iations had been made
in general, without designaing jKU'ticular works.
The Post was fh-st occupied by Battery "G," 3rd U. S. Ar-
tillery, June 1823, Captain M. P. Lomax, commanding, in
February 1824, the Garrison was increased by Batteries "C,"
"D," and "I," 4th Artillery, Captain B. K. Pierce, 4th Artillery,
assuming command. About this lime the Artillery School,
then known as "The Artillery School of Practice," was estab-
lished, and is now in existence, known as the ''United States
Artillery School." The School has. however, been tempora-
rily discontinued, at various times, when special exigencies,
demanded the services of the troops elsewhere.
During the Civil War, 1861-5, the Post was garrisoned by
one regiment of Heavy Artillery, 1800 men. Several expe-
ditions have used ttiis Post for a rendezvous and starling
point. Gen. Sherman's expedition to South Carolina, sailed
from this Point, Oct. 28th, 1861. Gen. Burnside's expedi-
tion to .\orth Carolina, also sailed in January 1862. Geiieral
Butlers expedition to Hatteras Inlet, in August 1861, and to
Fort Fisher in December 1864, also had this place fcr their
starting point. General Terry's expedition in January {865,
was fitted out at Fort Monroe. The Post was used as a base
of supplies for the Army and Na\'j% operating on tlie line of
the James River, and also along the coasts of North and South
Carolina, during the entire period of the War.
Major Gen, Benj. F, Butler, commanded the Military De-
partment of which Fort Monroe was the Headquarters, from
May 22nd, 1861, to Aug. 17th 1861, He was succeeded by
Major Gen. John E. Wool ; who was followed, June 2nd, 1862,
by Major Gen. John A.' Dix, who commanded until July i8th,
/ 3
1863 : then followed Major Gon. John G. Foster to Nov. i ith
1863 : Major Gen. B. F. Butler to Dee. 24tli 1864, and Major
Gen. E. 0. C. Ord, to April 1865.
The Post then became the Headquarters of the 5th Regi-
ment of Artillery, until Nov. 13th, 1867, when the Artillery
Sr-hool was again established, brevet Major Gen. Win. F.
Barry commanding, under whose? able management, tlie
Scliool flourished, until March, 1877, when he was succeed-
ed by brevet Major Gen. (Jeo. W. Getty, who retained com-
mand of the Post, until the fall of 1883, when he retired from
the Army, and was succeeded by brevet Major Gen. John G.
Tidball, the present commandant.
It may be interesting to note that the land included in the
area of Fort Monroe, 252 acres, was ceded to the United States
by the State of Virginia, March ist. 182 1, and conve^'^ed to
the former, by deed from the Governor, recorded in the
Court of Elizabeth City County, Dec. 12th 1838. There-
cords of Elizabeth City County were destroyed by fire, at tlie
burning of Hampton, during the RebeUion, 186 1-5. The
title, however, is indisputable.
iviill Creek Bridge, which connects Old Point with the
mainland, was deeded to the United States, by the Hampton
River and Mill Creek Toll Bridge Company, Nov. 15th, ^1038.
About 14 acres of land, on the right bank of Mill Creek, op-
positi^ Fort Monroe, were conveyed to the United States by
.1. A. Bradford, Feb. 12th 1844. The Hygeia Hotel was first
authorized June 25th 1868, and several times grants and
privileges have been made, imtil it has reached its present
mammoth proportions. Wm. H. Kimberly's Storehouse, au-
thorized, March 1 6th, 1868. Adams Express Company Of-
fice, January 26th, 1880. Roman Catholic Chapel, June 8th,
i860. Ice House and Billiard Hall of Vfrn. Baulch, author-
ized February 26th, 1879.
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The Fort is built in the Hli;i{)e of tin irre^'ular hexagon, five
sides of which are nearly equal ; the southeast front be-
ing as long as any of the other two. Each side has what is
called a curtain, in other words, that part of the rampart or
parapet, between the projecting portions, or bastions. These
are so arranged that a fire from the salient angle, will protect
the water front, in conjunction with the fire from the curtain,
and the corner angles of each bastion, producing a cross fire,
will protect the fosse, which surrounds the fort on all sides.
It has an average depth of about S feet, and is bricked for
about one-third of the distance from the foundation walls, for
the purpose of preventing the tide water from washing them
away. A main sewer has been lately built running throngli
the entire length of the Fort, and automatic flood gates placed
en the north and east side of the moat, closing whtm the tide
begins to ebb, and allowing no outlet for it, except through
the sewer, is supposed to be powerful enough to carry ofl' all
the refuse matter of the Garrison. Branch sewers to each
Officer's quarters, and from the Barracks, give a perfect net-
work of drains, and form an admirable system of sewerage,
and, when perfected, will contribute, in no small degree to
the health of the Garrison. The sewer empties into the
channel in Mill Creek.
The Moat is bridged at the three principal entrances of the
Fort, termed the North, East, and West or Main Sally ])orts,
and at the south-west, is a small bridge leading to what is
termed the Postern Gate.
The area included within the counter-scarp or outside wall
of the ditch, is 80 acres, and the remaining 252 acres include
the grave yard, redoubt, and the rest of the reservation, ex-
tending to Mill Greek. Entering by the Main Gate, from the
road leading from the Wharf, the first objects which attract
our attention are the Guard Rooms, of which there are two.
One used for the confinement of prisoners, and the other for the
use of the Guard. They are provided with bunks, gun-racks
and all t!iat go to make the necessary provisions for the sen-
tries while on duty as sentinels. There are also four ordi-
nary ceils connected with one, and a dark cell connected with
the other room. Besides these rooms, there are still two oth-
ers, one of which is used by the Officer of the Guard, and in
his absence, by the Non-commissioned Officers. The other
is used for a tool room, although both, should any exigency
demand it, are capable of being used as Guard rooms.
We pass the sentry, who, patrolling his beat, either at a
"right shoulder arms" or, "su[)port," gives no intimation eith-
er by word or look, that he is aware of our presence, unless
we unwittingly trespass, or disobey his orders, when he will
quickly inform us of the fact, and we see on our right a two
story frame building, the second story of which is a photo-
graph gallery.
Here are prepared views from different stand points, of the
Fort, photographic maps of surveying tours, and, when de-
sired, photographs of any person can be taken. Each Officer
passing a term of two years at the School, goes under instruc-
tion in this branch, and all the accompaniments of a first class
Gallery are to be found here. The advances lately made in
Photography, whereby instaneous impressions can be taken,
is availed of, and the liberality which furnishes first class in-
struments, and all their accompanying pharaphernalia, con-
tributes in no small degree to the prosperity and usefulness
of the School. It is amusing to see a picture of the Battalion
in "double time," for instance, with one foot raised in the air,
or a skirmish-line with a soldier with his foot just ready to be
planted, but his "physog" taken just at that moment, leaving
him in that position. However, they are specimens of the
advanced stage of the Science, and show how well and ably.
-78 -
the discipline and the usefulness of the Schoul is preserved
and enlarged, and made to tell in the instruction of the
future guides of the Nation in Military matters.
The lower floor of this l)uilding is used for an Officers' In-
struction Room, also for the storing of the Surveying Instru-
ments when not in use. Just across from, and facing this
building, is another fram? structure. This is the Oifieers'
Library. Here may be found valuable works on Military
subjects in our own and other languages. Maps, records of
the late war, important data on almost any subject pertain-
ing to arms, can hero be found grouped, together with histo-
ries of various descriptions, encyclopaedias, biographies, the
standard magazines of the day, pictorial histories of the Re-
bollion, and. in fact, any and all the works which go to make
up a well assorted Military Library, of reference, interest, and
instruction.
As we leave this building, we see a dra])-colored biick
structure, which lay on our left as we we entered the fort,
which is the Post Hospital. The lower floor is the Dispen-
sary, whii.h contains a judicious and abundant seler;tion of
drugs and medicines, and the second and third stories, con-
taining Wards for the sick. Here "Uncle Sam's boys," when
they become disabled or temporarily ill, can be taken ciire ct,
and every arrangement made for their interest. Thanks to
the salubrity and healthfulness of the climate, the health of
the Garrison g^merally is good, and the services of the Sur-
geon, are not often called for severe cases. A Surgeon and
Assistant Surgeon, both residing within the Garrison, render
medical aid, when called upon.
After having looked at the Hospital, until our curiosity is
satisfied, and passed the Matron's, quarters which witii the
Hospital Kitchen lie on the left and rear of it, we will next
visit a small brick building in close proximity, which contains
— 79 —
the Enlisted Mens' Library and Instruction Rooms, Here may
he found between 3000 and 4000 of the leading Novels of che
day, some in the Seaside, Lakeside, and LovelTs Library, but
th;' majority of them, bound. All tlie leading dailies, tri-
weeklis and weeklies, in the newspaper world, will be found
on its tables, while Harper's, Frank Leslie, The Century, and
other magazines of the highest literary merit, regale the lovers
of fhie reading, of whom there are quite a number. The Li-
brary is open from fatigue call in the morning, which is from
6.30 to 7.30 and 7.45 according to the Season, until 12 M..
and from i.ooP. M. until first signal for parade, about half
an hour before sundown. The Officers' Library, termed,
-The Artillery School Library." is open from 8 A. M., until
12 AL. and from i.oo P. M. until first signal for parade.
Looming in the foreground as we leave this building, are
tli{^ Barracks, a fine two story brick structure, on the wings,
and three stones, in the centre buildiifg'. These are the
quarters for the Enlisted men, and more commodious and
more perfectly arranged quarters, few, if any other posts, can
boast. A veranda, running the full length of each wing, on
both first and second floors, adds a finish to the front of the
strui:ture, as well as affording a pleasant place for the soldiers
to sit. The Barracks contain six sets of Company Quarters,
eaqh. a fac-simile of the rest. On the lower floor are the Of-
fice, Store Room, ist Sergeant's Room, Wash and Bath
Rooms, and ')ay Room, on one side of the Hall, and Dining
Room, Kitclien. Sleeping Room for ttie Cooks, and Store
Room for the rations, on the other side.
On the second floor, to which we ascend by an iron stair-
case are two dormitories, oacli (•a{)able of accommodating 30
men comfortably, and should necessity require it, more could
be crowded in. They are provided with iron bunks, and cot-
ton mattresses and pillows. Shelves ranging round the rooms
--8o —
afford ample acconirnodalions for the clothing, while a plenti-
ful sprinkling of windows, makes the barrack-room light and
cheerful.
The building is heated throughout by steam, two registers
being placed in each dormitory, two in each hallway on the
first floor, one in the Office, Day Room, ist Sergeant's Room
Wash an;l Bath Rooms, and they keep the Quarters comfort-
ably heated with a good head of steam on. The steam is
supplied from the Engine House, a brick building, lying im-
mediately in rear of the Quarters, A verandah, on the sec-
ond floor, runs the entire length of both wings in rear. Both
salt and fresh w'ater are supplied to the Barracks, by means
of the New Water Works, to be completed during the cuming
Summer. The Main Building cont lins on the ground tloor.
on one side of the saIly-i)ort, one long room, wliich is util-
ized as the Post Barker Shop, and on the other side two stair
cases leading to the Court Martial Room on the second floor,
from the front of the building, and the other, from the rear,
leading to what is termed the Tank Room : this contains three
large zinc tanks, from which a supply of fresh water is ob-
tained for the Bath Rooms and Kitchen.
On the third floor of this building is the Amusement Hall,
or "Hop Room, " as it is generally termed, where hops, the-
atrical performances, and, in fact, amusements of all kind were
held, until recently. ' Not long since its use was interdicted,
the floor being condemned as weak, and too unsafe to risk
dancing on it.
The New Water Works, but partially completed at present,
are intended to supply the Garrison with both salt and fresh
water. The mains for both are laid one on top of the
othf-r. Fire plugs at convenient distances, will enable the
water to be thrown high enough to cover the top of the high-
est structure in the Fort, and so will prove an invaluable auxil-
— 8i —
iary in case of fire. The water will be procured from the Gov-
ernment farm, at what is known as ''Slabtown." The pipes
for the same are laid across Mill Creek, and the water will be
drawn from the well by a suction pump.
The Reservoir will be placed over the North Gate, and will
have a capacity of about 50,000 gallons. The water will have
a fall of about 60 feet.
Leaving the Main Building, and taking the main walk, we
see on our left the Ordnance Store House, a two story biick
building, containing every species of Ordnance Stores, in use
in the Artillery. The lower floor is used also, for storing the
Hotchkiss and Gatling guns, of which there are fine specimens
at the Post. Next we see two drab colored buildings, called
" Knox Row," so named by the Commandant at the time of
their erection, the late Gen. Wm. F. Barry, in honor of the
Sec'y of War, Hon. Henry Knox. ' Tlfey are residences of
Officers, having passed which, we come to the Commandant's
dwelling house. This is a very fine structure, being ap-
proached by a broad flight of steps trom both front and rear.
Ample grounds surround the dwelling, while a garden and
Green House, add their attractive features to its grace and
beauty. A garden, in charge of a soldier, who spends his time
in furthering the growth of the ornamental and useful in the
vegetable and botanical world, lies in rear of the dwelling. It
is a very pleasant residence.
Walking a few steps further we come to the Headquarters of
the United States Artillery School. These are very ordin-
ary frame structures, erected by Gen. Butler during the War.
The first building contains the Adjutant's, Sergeant Major's
and Printing Office. The second contains the Commandant's
Office. The Printing Office well repays a visit, as here may
be seen in their different stages the printing and binding of a
10
— 82 —
great many of the text-books, used in the School: all the
Lithographing of the School is also done here, which with it?
sister science Photography, has done so much for, and occu-
pies such a prominent place in, Militar)- Science of the day.
For maps, plates for text-books, and in fact everywhere ii
can be utilized to advantage, lithography is made use of, and.
be it spoken to the credit of the rank and tile of the Army, all
the work is performed by Enlisted Men. The specimens furn-
ished of their skill, proving them, able to cope in their sever-
al departments, with mechanics al large in the world. Until
recently a very lively little sheet, termed, " Fort Monroe Ga-
zette," a five column four page paper, published semi-monthly,
was issued from this same ol'lice, and had quite a large circu-
lation in tlie neighborhood ; the entire publishing and editor-
ial force of which, was composed of Enlisted Men.
Leaving Headquarters, and continuing our promenade, we
pass a double brick house, with beautiful verandas running
in front of both first and second floors. These dwellings were
formerly the property of the Ordnance Department, but when
the Arsenal was removed entirely outside of the .^ort, these
buildings were turned over to the Post, and are now used as
Officers' Quarters.
Passing these, our next object of interest is the Post Chapel.
" Church of the Centurion." It is a frame building 70x27
feet mside, besides a recess chancel 19x16 feet on one end,
and a porch 10x9 feet on the other end. It was erected af-
ter plans made by the late Richard Upjohn, a church archi-
tect in New York City. It was commenced in 1857, and fin-
ished in 1858. The most active part in its erection, was taken
by Lieut. McAllister of the Ordnance ; now Colonel. The
Colonel intended to show by this action, his recognition of
the Divine mercy toward him in preserving his life in an ex-
plosion in a laboratory, in which he and two other Officers,
-83-
were at work. They were killed and his own life preserved.
The chapel w;js at first furnished with rough pine l)enches,
and neither chancel nor chapel furniture, expressed aught
of the taste of the worshipers, or was in consistency
with the idea which must always make itself felt in an ap-
preciative mind, that a hous(^ dedicated to the worship of
God, should express, in all its appointments, the reverence
and sanctity felt by its comnninicants, and their acknowledge-
ment of the same, by tlieir liberality in its appropriate adorn-
ment. In consistency with tliis sentiment, the present chap-
lain, Rev. Osgood E. Herrick, U. S. A. in conjunction with
his estimable wife, assisted by the ladies of the church, inau-
gurated Fairs, which were held at the Hygeia Hotel, and
raised subscriptions by this means, and others of a like char-
acter, for the purpose of furnishing in a proper manner, our
l^ost Chapel.
Many articles of ornament and use were manufactured,
and among them all, none, perhaps, attracted more attention,
or met with a quicker sale, than negro nurses in miniature,
with an infant in their arms, negro men-of-war sailors, and
cotton pickers, most of these being manufactured by Mrs.
Herrick herself. The result speaks for itself, in the improved
appearance of the (Ihapel to-day.
Handsome black walnut pews, take the place of the un-
sightly pine benches. Magnificent stained glass windows^
eight of them memorial, one, dedicated to the late Gen. W.
F. Barry, being particularly worthy of mention, bike the place
of the old ones. A handsome carpet covering the floor, and
ricli chancel furniture, combine to make this little house of
worship, a model of neatness and elegance. A beautifully
built, and sweetly toned Organ, from the firm of Jardine &
Sons of New York, furnishes appropriate music, and charms
all who hear it. The Choir of the chapel is composed entire-
- 84 -
ly of enlisted men, and reflects credit alike upon the com-
mand and themselves, by their endeavors to aid in the ser-
vice. Services are held every Sabbath at 10.45 ^^' ^^1 ^'id
Evening service, at different hours, from 3 to 5.30 P. M.,
varying with the season.
Leaving this delightful little spot, which we are loath to do,
and continuing our journey on foot, we come to two more
dwelling houses on our riglit, the residences of the Post Chap
lain and Assistant Surgeon. Then comes a row of buildings,
which were named, when first built, "The Tuileries," on ac-
count it is supposed, of their being the handsomest buildings
in the Fort at the time. Immediately in rear of these quar-
ters, is a small alley-way running between them and two
other Officers' quarters, and dulibed, in the parlance of tlie
Garrison "Ghost Alley." Why this name, is involved in mys-
tery. The most plausible explanation perhaps, is, that until
lately, no liglits were placed here, and as darkness invariably
associates itself with ghosts and ghost storicis, it is a natural
supposition, that it thus arose. Lights have been recently
placed at each end, and the significance of the name, if it ever
possessed any, will doubtless pass away.
We have now reached the southwest postern gate com-
monly called "iVo. 2." This entrance is largely used by the
guests of the Hygeia Hotel, and the Officers of the Garrison.
It is closed to Enlisted Men and strangers (except Officers'
guests) after "Retreat," w^hich is at sunset. Commencing at
"No. 2," we have a line of cascmated quarters ; they are case-
mates for guns which would form the Flank Defence of the
Fort, and have been ceiled and floored, and made into com-
fortable and convenient dwellings. In case of necessity, how-
ever, they could be quickly metamorphosed into an armed
battery, whence the iron moutlied "dogs of war," could belch
forth their iron hail, carrying destruction and ruin to an op-
-85 -
posinj,' eiiemy. They are termed respectively, First, Second
and Third Front?. First and Second Fronts, are used by the
Officers, while Third Front is used principally by enlisted
men. First Front must ever be memorable, in the history of
Fort Monroe, since it was the scene of the incarceration of
Jefferson K Davis, President of the Southern Confederacy.
•'On the 19th, of xMay, 1865, the Willkim P. Clyde, dropped
anchor in Hampton Roads, and the news quickly spread on
shore, that she had on board, several State prisoner-:, viz.,
Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederacy and his family;
AlexanderH. Stephens, Vice-president; Jolni N. Reagan, Post-
master General ; Clement C. Clay, and several others."
"What will they do with him?" "When will they bring
him ashore?" "Guess they'll take him to Washington and
hang him by Military Commission?" "Guess you're a jack-
ass; they can't hang him unless they hang a!I." "Jackass
yourself; the papers say he was with the assassins in killing
Lincoln" " Who are the other chaps with him?" "Will
they keep him in tlit} woman's toggery he had on when they
caught him?" "Guess there's no tiuth in that." "It's just
as true as preaching — all the papers say so." "They'll hang
Clem Clay sure." Such was a specimen of the conversation
going on, on shore, concerning those on board the Clyde.
"Blacksmiths and carpenters, had been busy fitting up
Casemates Nos. 2 and 4, first front, near the Postern Gate, for
the reception of the prisoners. They were partitioned off, into
regular cells, by bricklayers ; heavy iron bars were placed a-
cross the external embrasures, and windows opening on the in-
terior; and the cells for the prisoners were partitioned off into
two apartments, that next to the embrasure, being intended
for the captives, while the room or cell opening on the interi-
or of the fort, was intended for their guard."
"On the morning ol the 21st of May, some of the minor
— 86 —
S(''e prisoners on board the Clyde,, the Confederate General
Wheeler and his staft, were placed on board the Maumee,
which then steamed for Fort Warren in Boston Harbor, while
Alexander H. Stephens, ex- Postmaster Reagan, and some
others were soon alter transferred on board the gunboat Tufs-
carora, which immediately started oil to Fort Delaware, as
was presumed."
" Intense excitement, on shore and in the neighboring ves-
sels, accompanied all these changes; but Major General Ihd-
leck, who had come down some days before to superintend
the arrangements, would make no sign, and speculation con-
secjuenlly ran higher and higher every moment, as to whether
the chief prisoner of all was destined to remain at the fort, or
be transferred elsewhere in custody without halting."
Speculation was rife concerning tlie matter, but all conjec-
tures were at last put to rest, by the arrival of Major General
Miles, in a special steamer from Baltimore, that officer having
been assigned to the command of the Fort, Colonel Roberts,
the Commandant, liaving b(?en relieved. This was on the af-
ternoon of May 22d. As soon as the officer arrived, a cliain
of sentinels was j)osted, to keep back the crowd, from the En-
gineers Landing io the i^ostern Gate. These arrangemenis
all proved that the object of all these details, the prisoner, for
whose appearance all the crowd were ,on the qui rlre, was
about to be landed.
The parting on board the Clyde, between Mr. Davis and his
family, was afrecting in the extreme, the ladies weeping very
l)itterly, as Messrs. Clay and Davis were handed over the
ship's side, into the boat which was to convey them on shore.
After landing, the procession was formed. Major General Ilal-
leck, and the Hon. (Charles A. Dana, Assistant Secretary of
War, inspecting the same. Col. Pritchard, of the Michigan
cavalry, who effected the capture, being in command of the
- ^7 -
Guard, wliiie passing from the Clyde to the Fort. General
Mile? led the procession, arm-in-arm with Mr. Davis, who was
dressed in a plain Confederate grey suit and slouched hat.
looking very much wasted and haggard.
Thus they passed through files of " Uncle Sam's boys,''
from the landing place, to the Postern Gate. When they
arrived at their destination, Mr. Davis was shown into
No. 2 Casemate, and Mr. Clay, into No. 4. Guards were
placed in the cells immediately contiguous thereto, Nos. i, 3
and 5. They were ushered in, and the doors clanged behind
them, and thus was rung the fmal knell, of those who had
indulged in such high hopes, respecting one of the most stu-
pendous struggles of modern times, but whose star had set
in darkness and despair.
General Miles showed Mr. Davis into his cell, and the two
doors leading thereinto being closed, Mr. Davis surveyed the
premises fof a few moments, and then placing his hands on
his knees, having previously seated himself in a chair, looked
intently at one of the sentinels pacing up and down, and
bluntly asked: "Which way does the embrasure face?" No.
answer was made to this query. The question was re-
peated. But again naught but silence was his answer, broken
only by the footfalls of his guards, both within and without
his cell. He then addressed the other sentry with the same
words, eliciting no response whatever. '* Well, " said Mr.
Davis, throwing up his hands and breaking into a bitter laugh.
"I wish my men could have been taught your discipline!''
Then rising from his chair, he paced his cell back and forth,
ever and anon, looking from the embrasure, at the sentry on
the opposite side of the moat, and then at his two silent com-
panions.
Who shall tell the cause of his sardonic mirth, for he was
seldom known to indulge in laughter. Was he living in re-
— 88 —
trospect the days when, jinder President Pierce, his ap-
proach to the Fort was signalized by the roar of guns
from whose embrasures he now looked forth a pris-
oner of War? Was not his question pregnant with meaning?
"Which way does the embrasure face?" "To what point of
the compass is my gaze directed?" "Am 1 looking toward
the scenes of my late ambitious hopes, the theatre of War,
from whose flames I have marched to disaster and imprison-
ment, or am I looking Northward, where throned in power,
and representing the august majesty of the law, my enemies sit
in state?" That day which shall reveal all events, only can
tell.
The next morning, however, was to witness the most se-
vere trial to \Ahich the proud spirit of the prisoner had yet
been put. Perhaps no one occupying so lofty a po>^ition, has
ever been subject to so severe an ordeal in modern times.
On May 23rd, Jefferson Davis was shackled. While this event
was transpiring at Fort Monroe, another of a different char-
acter, but intimately connected with the history of the pris-
oner, was being enacted at Washington. The armies of the
the Potomac, of Tc^nnessee, and Georgia, were preparing for
that grand revieAv, in which two hundred thousand buttle
scarred and war bronzed veterans, were to pass in Grand Re-
view before the President, and lav down their arms at the feet
of the Civil Authority, and retire to the avocations of private
life, which some of them left four years before at their coun-
try's call.
On that morning, Capt. J. E. Titlow, of the 3rd Pennsyl-
vania Artillery, Officer of the Day, entered the cell, accom[)a-
nied by the post blacksmith and assistant, the latter carrying
the shackles in his hands, whose chains clanked harshly to-
gether. Mr. Davis having passed a very restless night, was
reclining on his couch, his food furnished him the previous
-89-
day, remaining untouched beside him.
As they entered Mr. Davis arose. "Well," said he. "I
have a very unpleasant duty to perform. Sir," said Captain
Titlow, and as he spoke, the blacksmith came forward with
the shackles. As soon as the prisoner realized the situation,
his face flushed for a moment, and then became pale and
rigid as death. He drew his figure up to its full height, ap-
parently dumbfounded with indignation, and then he seemed
to shrink in terror from such a trying ordeal. He said : —
"My God ! You cannot have been sent to iroti me ?" "Such
are my orders, Sir," replied the officer, and he signified to the
blacksmith, that he was awaiting the performance of his
duty.
"The fetters were of heavy iron, about five-eighths of an
inch in thickness, and connected together by a chain of like
weight." They are now beheved to be in the possession of
General Miles.
"This is too monstrous," groaned the prisoner, "I demand.
Captain, that you let me see the Commanding Officer. Can
he pretend that such shackles are required, to secure the safe
custody of a weak old man, so guarded, and in such a fort as
this ?"
"It could serve no purpose," replied Captain Titlow, his
orders are from Washington."
"But he can telegraph," said Mr. Davis quickly ; "there
must be some mistake. No such outrage as you threaten, is
on record in the history of nations. Beg him to telegraph,
and delay until he answers."
"My orders are peremptory," said the officer, and admit of
no delay. For your sake, let me advise you to submit with
patience. As a soldier, Mr Davis, you know I must execute
orders."
"These are not orders from a soldier," shouted the prison-
II
-90 —
or, "thej^ are the orders of a jailor, for a liangjnan, which no
soldier wearing a sword should accept ! I tell you the world
will ring with this disgrace. The war is over, the South is
conquered ; I have no longer any country but America, and
it is for the honor of America, as for my own honor and life,
that I plead against this degradation. Kill me ! Kill me !" he
cried, "rather than inflict on me and my people through me,
this insult worse than death. "
"Do your duty, blacksmith," said Captain Titlow, walking
away, as if unw illing to witness such a painful ceremony, 'it
only gives increased pain on both sides, to protract this inter-
view."
The blacksmith, in obedience to his orders, attempted to
obey them, and seeing one foot of the prisoner resting up-
on a chair near his bed, he tried to slip one of the shackles
on. With a strength born of frenzy, and an amount of phys-
ical power wholly unlooked for, Mr. D;H"is seized tiie black -
smitti, and hurled him half-w^ay across the room.
Captain Titlow' turning at tliis juncture, and seeing Mr.
Davis still bent on further resistance, remonstrated with him.
and besought him, for his own sake, not to protract matters,
which must eventually terminate in his own discomfiture.
"Why compel me, to add the further indignity," said he "of
personal violence to the necessity of being ironed."
"I am a prisoner of War," said Mr. Davis, "I have
been a soldier in the army of America, and know how to die.
Only kill me, and my last breath shall be a blessing on your
head. But wdiile I have life and strength to resist, for my-
self and for my people, this thing shall not be done."
The Captain then called for a sergeant and a file ot soldiers.
and the sergeant attempted to seize the prisoner. Thereupon
Mr. Davis attempted to wrest his musket from him, when he
— 91 —
was immediately seized by the four men, and when he arose
he was manacled. He dropped his feet to the floor, and as the
clank of the chain first sounded on his ears, he burst into a
violsnt fit of weeping, and covering his face with his hands,
he kept continually repeating : — "Oh, the shame ! The
shame !"
Mr. Davis, in speaking afterwards, said he was never
tempted, or at least, never sought his own life but once, and
that was when he grasped the sergeant's musket, and he
said he did it, Ijoping the men would bury their bayonets in
him.
For three days, the prisoner ate scarcely anything, and the
fare of the soldiers not agreeing with him, his medical at-
tendant, brevet Lieut. Col. John H. Craven, recommended a
light diet, which was granted him, and he supped on the
evening of May 26th, on toast and tea, for which he seemed
very grateful. The wearing of his shackles having a very del-
eterious effect, the Surgeon recommended their removal, and
(Itn. Miles, on Sunday May 28th, ordered their removal.
During his confinement, Mr. Davis held repeated conver-
sations with his Surgeon, on various subjects, and freely ex-
pressed his views in regard to the War,^md also as to some
acts with which he was charged, such as the repudiation of the
Mississippi bonds, which he emphatically denied.
The health of the prisoner fluctuated considerably, until
the 14th of August, when he was attacked, with incipient
erysipelas, and a carbuncle on his thigh, which continued to
grow worse until September ist, when Col. Craven, attribut-
ing the cause of the disease to the damp casemate, wrote a let-
ter to Gen. Miles, requesting his removal to more comfortable
quarters. The rooms in the second story of the south end
of Carroll Hall, were selected as the place best suited for the
purpose.
— 92 —
This building had been long used as officers' quarters, and
nearly every officer of the old army was quartered here, after
leaving West Point. Rumor hath it, that both Grant and
Sherman occupied these same rooms, before the imprison-
ment of Mr. Davis there.
Two rooms were used, as in the casemate prison. —
Through a grated door connecting the two rooms, a' constant
view of the inner room could be obtained, and his guard,
consisting of a Lieutenant and two soldiers, were stationed in
the outer room, and kept a vigilant watch over his every
movement, to prevent any attempt at suicide. Opposite the
grated door was a fireplace. On the right was a heavily
grated window, and a sentry continually paced up and down
in front of it. Opposite this window was a door leading into
the corridor, and here a sliding panel had been tixed, and
the door heavily barred, and a sentry continually kept his face
pressed there, to report the slightest effort on the part of
the prisoner to attempt self destruction. The piazza was ex-
tended, and a flight of steps placed there, so that the prisoner
could mount the ramparts, without descending to the ground
floor.
On October 5 th he removed to Carroll Hall, and was allow-
ed every day to walk for an hour on the ramparts. Mr. Davis
suffered much inconvenience, from the morbid curiosity of
those, who, visiting the Fort seemed, to regard him as a novel-
ty, at which they were at perfect liberty to gaze, and specu-
late concerning. Mr. Davis tried to rebuke this lack of good
breeding, by turning abruptly to his cell, but without avail.
After being confined at Carroll Hall about eight months,
under the closest surveillance, not being allowed to walk on
the ramparts, without the Officer of the Day, Sergeant of the
Guard, and a file of the Guard, in attendance, the prisoner
— 93 —
was granted a parole, which allowed him the limits of the
Garrison. His family having arrived, in the meantime, three
casemates in Second Front, immediately facing the Engine
House, were occupied by him and his loved ones. He was
allowed the liberty of the Fort, but orders were issued to the
effect, that if he attempted to pass out at any of the entrances,
to halt him, and if he refused to obey, to shoot him on the
spot. Things remained in this condition, concerning Mr.
Davis, until the fall of 1 866, when he was taken to Richmond,
and brought before the United States District Court, on a
charge of treason.
He was released on bail, three prominent Northern men,
Horace Greely being one, becoming his bondsmen. The
matter was never brought to trial, and the affair was quashed.
Mr. Davis refused to take the "Iron Glad Oath" of allegiance,
and was disfranchised, and to-day he stands, an anomaly in
the history of the world, a man without a country, and with-
out a precedent.
He is now living in Mississippi, and recently, just previous
to the opening of the New Orleans Exposition, while trans-
porting the old "Independence Bell," from Philadelphia to
New Orleans, those having it in charge, stopped at Mr.
Davis's place of residence, and he delivered quite a speech,
appropriate to the subject and occasion.
Thus we leave him. In his moments of reverie, when he
dwells upon the pictures of the past, if remorse mingles with
his retrospect, who would wonder ? His errors in judgment,
or his intentional treason, it is not our province, to either
condone or condemn. To his own conscience, and his God,
must be left the solving of the problem.
Carroll Hall, the place of his imprisonment, is approached
qy a brick walk, brandling off from the walk leading past
the Hospital, and is used, exclusively, for Officers' quarters.
— 94 —
Returning to first front, and continuing our tour of sight-
seeing, at its terminus, we see the Officers' Club Room, fitted
up for the accommodation and pleasure of the Officers of the
Post. Here may be found Billiard and Pool Tables, a fine
Bar, and all the accompaniments of a first-class Club Room.
Second front, next greets us, and when we arrive at its end,
we see the Post Bakery, fitted up and occupying two case-
mates. Here all the bread consumed by the Garrison, is
made by enlisted men, and many citizens avail themselves of
the privilege granted them, and purchase their bread here
also. Those who have partaken of it, can testify to its good
quality.
On the other side of the "ramps," is the "Sutler Store,"
which is presided over by Wm. Baulch, Post Trader, whbse
able muiagement, provides the Enlisted Men of the Garrison,
with everything which a soldier can possibly need, from
"boots to hat."
Third front, is (lie next object we meet, which is flanked
at each end, by two small magazines. There are also two
small magazines at each end of second front, all about the
same size. The largest magazine in the Garrison, lies on the
left of Carroll Hall, and one other is situated in the group of
buildings known as the Post "Commissary." These build-
ings were formerly the property of the Ordnance Department,
but when the Arsenal was removed outside of the Fort, these
were turned over" to the Post, with the rest of the buildings be-
longing to the same Department, and have since been used
for the purpose above specified. They are situated in the
northeastern portion of the Fort, and lie on the right of the
North Gate.
Daring our promenade, we have noticed several roadwaysi
heading from the Main road to the ramparts. The majority
— 95 —
of those are built up what is termed, the " interior slope,'"
while two others, the one at the Sutler Store, and the other
leading from the main road ,between First an:l Second fronts,
to the flag staff, stand out in bold relief, with their capstones
arranged as steps. These are so built, to break the joints of
the masonry, which would b6 weakened, if built in any oth-
er manner. These roadways are termed " ramps," and lead
frnm the road to what is termed the terreplein, upon which
the guns are mounted.
We will ascend the one leading from the " Sutler Store,"
and wo find ourselves in the South Bastion, which is the cen-
tral one on the southeast side of the Fort ; this curtain, as
has already been stated, being longer than any other. Here
will be found mounted, one i^" Centre Pintle Gun, improved
pattern, with compressed air cylinders; the old model gun of
this calibre, is run "in battery," and "from batter)'," by means
of handspikes, whereas, in the new model, the gun, when the
axle is unkeyed, will run " in battery "' automatically.
Turning to our left we come to what is termed the South-
east Bastion, where are mounted Parrott Guns and one 15"
Centre Pintle of the "old model," which was the first ever man-
ufactured, and it was named the "Lincoln Gun," after President
Lincoln. Here will be found 8" "Converted Rifles," so call
ed because they are made by boring out ordinary 10" Smooth
Bore guns and inserting a double lining tube of coiled
wrought-iron. The tube is secured from working out by a
muzzle collar, screwed in at the face of the piece, and from
turning, by a steelpin tapped through the casing.
While taking our promenade on the fen-eplein, we have
noticed a large majority of the unused platforms, are of brick,
with stone facings. These were built in the days of the old
wooden carriages, and are now useless. In time they will
superseded by platforms suited fcr heavy guns. Immediate-
-96-
ly in rear of the Commissary Buildings, is the Nortlieast
Bastion.
•At the other end of the curtain, is the Northwest Bastion,
which Hes immediately in rear, of Carroll Hall. Nothing of
importance meets the eye between this bastion and the next
one, which is the Southwest Bastion, The platforms for
guns, commence from this point to be numbered, the platform
for the C. P. 15" being No. i.
The only Bastion now remaining, is the Flag-staff Bastion,
from vvhich the morning and evening gun is fired.
From the terreplein^ we will ascend to the crest of the ram-
parts themselves, and enjoy an unobstructed view of the Roads
and Bay. From the crest to the scarp wall, is termed the "ex-
terior slope," while from the terrejilein to the road, is named
the "interior slope.'" The outside wall of the ditch is termed
the counter-scarp.
Looking from the ramparts to the other side of the moat,
we notice it is divided into three parts, viz., from the south-
ern end of the Water Battery to the Northwest Bastion, an
easy slope extends, which is termed the glacis, and is protect-
ed, by the guns from the fort proper. Then commences^
what is termed, the "Covered Way," a wall, a little more
than breast high, which is intended as a cover and protection
for troops, when, falling back from the outworks, they seek
the protection of the fort, and extends to the northern end
of the Walter Battery. The Water Battery itself, forms the
third part, and w^ will now describe it.
Taking our way through the East Gate, immediately in front
of the Commandant's dwelling, we enter the Water Battery,
The next point of interest, is the "Place of Arms," a recess-
in which troops could be sheltered and secreted, to repel an
attack form land forces, and, with the Redoubt, from the out-
works of the Fort.
— 97 —
On the Parade ground of tiie Fort, we have, to the right
of the Main Walk, as we face Headquarters, the Siege Bat-
tery Park. It contains Siege Guns and a Siege Howitzer.
On the left of the Main Walk, we have the Light Battery
Park, which contains four 3 inch Rifles, and two brass twelve
pounders or Napoleon guns. In the rear of the pieces them-
selves, between them and their caissons, is a Mortar Battery,
consisting of four 8" Siege Mortars.
The 3-inch Rifle, was adopted in 1 861 . It is made of wrought
iron, by wrapping boiler iron round an iron bar, so as to form
a cylindrical mass, which is brought to a wielding heat, and
passed through rollers, so as to unite it solidly ; the trunnions
are afterwards welded on, and the piece is bored and turned
to its proper size and shape.
The Mitrailleur or Gatling guns, v:ere adopted in 1868;
they are made of steel, some of the smaller parts being brass.
The twelve-pounder, or Napoleon gun, adopted in 1857, is still
in use in the United States service, though abandoned by all
other nations. It is cast in gun-metal, or bronze, which con-
sists of ninety parts of copper and ten of tin, allowing a varia-
tion of one part more or less.
The charges are contained in cartridge-bags, made of woolen
material, of sufficiently close texture to prevent the powder
from sifting through, the size varying with the charge. Mitrail-
leur ammunition, is put up in metallic cases ; it is primed, fixed
and ready for use.
Rifle projectiles are designated by the diameter of the bore
of the piece in which they are used ; their shape is oblong ;
they are not attached to their cartridge. Smooth-bore pro-
jectiles, are designated by the weight in pounds of the solid-
shot of the same diameter ; their shape is spherical, with the
exception of canister, which is cylindrical in form ; they are
- 98 -
fixed or attached to their cartridges by wooden disks called
sabots.
A projectile and its cartridge, constitute a round of cnrmm-
nition. The projectiles used in light batteries, are shell, case-
shot, canister, and solid-shot.
A shell is a hollow, cast-iron projectile, made strong
enough to penetrate earthworks, wooden buildings, etc,
without breaking ; it is loaded with a bursting charge of rifle
or musket powder, which gives great force to the fragments.
Fire is communicated to the charge by means of a fuse, in-
serted in the hole by which the shell is loaded ; it is divided
into seconds, and the time ol the explosion, is regulated ac-
cordingly.
A case-shot is a hollow, cast-iron projectile, filled with
musket-balls, and with thinner walls than those of the shell.
A tube is inserted in the fuse-hole, the balls are introduced,
and melted sulphur or rosin is poured in to fill up the inter-
stices, and keep the balls in position ; after this has solidified,
the tube is withdrawn, leaving a vacant space for the charge,
which is only large enough to burst the case, and dis-
perse the contents. Fire is communicated to the charge, in
the same manner as prescribed for a shell.
A canister shot consists of a hollovv cylinder, filled vv'ith
cast-iron or lead balls, which varv in size and number with
the calibre and kind of pieces ; the cylinder is closed at the
bottom by a thick cast-iron plate, and at the top by one of
sheet-iron. A canister shot for the three-inch Rifle contains
from one hundred to one hundred and fitly balls ; that for
the twelve-pounder, twenty-seven balls ; the interstices be-
tween the balls are filled with sawdust. Canister shot for
rifled guns, has an expanding metallic sabot or cuf!,
A solid-shot is made of cast-iron.
There are four principal kinds of projectiles used with the
— 99 —
3-inch Rifle, viz., the Iloichki'if;, the shell of which weighs 8.5
lbs., atid requires a charge of 3 oz., cf cannon powder ; the
case shot vreighs 9 lbs., contains 24 balls, and requires a
bursting charge of i oz. of cannon powder ; the canister
weighs 7.5 lbs., and the solid shot 10 lbs.; the Ordnanee pro-
jectile, the shell of which weighs 7.5 lbs., requiring 10 oz. of
powder to fill it ; the case shot weighing 10.5 lbs., containing
49 ])alls with a bursting charge of i oz. of powder, and the
canister weighing 10 lbs.; the Absterdam projectile, the shell
of which weighs 10.5 lbs., and requires 8 oz., of powder to
fill it ; the case-shot weighing 1 1.62 lbs., containing 58 balls
and requiring a bursting charge of 2 oz. of powder, and the
solid shot weighing 9.5 ibs.; the Eureka projectile, the shell
of which weighs 9 lbs. requiring 8 oz. of powder to fill it, and
the case-shot weighing 1 1.6 lbs., containing 42 balls, and re-
quiring a bursting charge of I oz. of powder. The shell for
the Xapoleon gun, weighs 9.52 lbs., and requires 8 oz. ot
powder to fill it ; the case-shot weighs 12.17 lbs., contains
^6 balls, and requires a bursting charge of i oz. of powder ;
the canister weighs 14.80 lbs., and the solid shot weighs
12.75 lbs.
Left of the Main "Walk leading from the Barracks to the
"Sutler Store, " and just before reaching it, we see a triangu-
lar shaped piece of ground, which is termed ''Trophy Park"
and contains interesting souvenirs of Conwallis's surrender at
Yorktown, in 1781. The three angles are occupied by three
10" Siege Mortars, each flanked by triangular piles of Mortar
Shells. In the centre of the Park is a brass Mortar, which
was originally used for firing stone, by having them placed in
a basket prepared for the purpose. Its use was long since
abolished. Surrounding this, on all sides, are rows of 10''
Mortar Shells, and above thpse, a row of projectiles for the
8" Rifle. The trophies consist of 3 Howitzers, manufactured
— TOO —
respectively in 1829, 1740 and 1677: each having two handles,
the handles of two of them being dolphins, and the third plain ;
two Siege pieces, manufactured respectively in 1759 and 1767
the first named bearing a Coat- of-Arms, and the following
inscription; — "The Right Hon. George Sackville, Lt. Gener-
al, and the rest, of the principal officers in His Majesty's Ord-
nance, " and each having the dolphin handles, before referred
to ; two field pieces, one about 3 inches, and the other 4 inches,
in diameter. In addition to the insciption already referred to,
each trophy has the English Coat-of-Arms and the follow-
ing:— "Surrendered at the Capitulation of Yorktown, Oct.
19th, 1 78 1."
In addition to these, there is also a breech-loading Chinese
gun, which was known in Chinese vernacular, as a " Breech-
loading Wall Piece. " It bears the following inscription in the
Chinese language: — " 19th year, 2nd Moon, of the Chinese
Emperor, King Hi. A. D. 1681." The gun also bears the
names of high Military Officials, that of the Superintendent of
Casting, two subordinate Superiors, and of the Master Work-
man. This gun was captured from the Coreans, by the U. S.
Naval Squadron, commanded by Rear-Admiral Jno. Rogers,
U. S. Navy, and was presented to the Museum of the " U. S.
Artillery School," by Major Wallace F. Randolph, 5th U. S.
Artillery.
We have completed our tour of the Fort,, having exliausted
the interesting features. Its Garrison is composed at pres-
ent, of five batteries, "A" of the 3rd, "K" of the 2nd, "I" oj
the 4th, "C" of the 5th, and "G" of the ist, Regiments of
United States Artillery. Battery "A" is commanded by Capt.
James Chester, Battery "K" is commanded by brevet Major
John H. Calef, Battery "I" is commanded by brevet Major J.
B. Campbell, Battery "C" is commanded by Capt. Chas.
— lOI —
Morris, nnd Battery "G,"" is (■onuiianded by ('a\\)\. Janii's M.
Ingalls.
The Staff of the Commandant l)revet Brigadier-General Jno.
C. Tidball is composed of the following officers, Major A. G.
M. Pennington, 4th Artillery, Major Richard Lodor, 3rd Ar-
tillery, Surgeon Joseph C. Baily, Medical Department, Assis-
tant Surgeon George S. Torney. Rev. Osgood E. Herrick, Post
Chaplain, Captain Charles A. Booth, Post Quartermastei', and
('aptain Frank E. Nye, C. S. The Fort Monroe Arsenal is
commanded by Lawrence S. Babbitt, Major ol Ordnance.
The batteries are supposed U) number 48 men strong, in-
cluding the Non-commissioned Officers, of which there are 9
to each, ist Sergeant, 4 duty Sergeants, and 4 Corporals,
A daily detail is made, from Headquarters, of a pro rata pro-
portion of each battery, for the Post Guard, which is mounted
every morning, the signal being sounded at 8:30 A. M. It is
a beautiful and interesting ceremony. These details are made
on a basis derived from a daily report of each battery, termed
"The Morning Report." which is signed by the Commanding
Officer of the battery, and ttiken by the First Sergeant, who
also signs it, to Headquarters. These books must be present-
ed by 8 o'clock, A. M.. and the details are then made by the
Post Sergeant-Majoi- for the next day.
Drill occurs in the afternoon of each day, except Saturday
and Sunday, the signal being^ sounded at from 2:30 to 4:30 P.
M., varying'^with the season, ft lasts an hour and a liall, and
consits of Heavy Artillery, Light Artillery, and Battalion Drills
and Target Practice with small aims. In the Summer sea-
son, all the Artillery Target Piactice of the Post takes place,
under the supervision of the Officers of the Class. Each of
the Departments is under the supervision of an Instructor.
The Course of instruction comprises two years, so that
every two years, a new class arrives al flic Po<t. Two Fiisf
I 02 r*
and two Second Lieutenants, to each l)atlery, making twenty * "''I
in all, compose the Glass. Sometimes an Infantry. Cavalry
or Marine Officer, is numbered among them.
There is a Dress Parade every evening, except Saturday, at
sunset, Weekly Inspection every Sunday Morning, at 8:30 A.
M. by the Captains, and Monthly Inspection, by the Cora-
n:]nnding Officer, on the last day of every month.
Having thus far conducted our readers, we will leave them
lioping they liave enjoyed the tour, and derived some useful
information thf-refioni.
THE END.
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