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WAU-BUN,
THE
IN
THE NORTH-WEST,
BY MRS. JOHN H. KINZIE,
OF CHICAGO.
NEW YOEK:
PUBLISHED BY DERBY & JACKSON,
119 NASSAU STREET.
CINCINNATI : H. W. DERBY & Co.
1856.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year One Thousand Eight Hundred
and Fifty -six, by
DEEBY & JACKSON
In the Clerk : s Office of the District Court for tho Southern District of New York.
7
EVERY work partaking of the nature of an autobio-
graphy, is supposed to demand an apology to the pub-
lic. To refuse such a tribute, would be to recognize
the justice of the charge, so often brought against our
countrymen of a too great willingness to be made ac-
quainted with the domestic history and private affairs
of their neighbors.
It is, doutttless, to refute this calumny that we find
travellers, for the most part, modestly offering some
such form of explanation as this, to the reader : " That
the matter laid before him was, in the first place, sim-
ply letters to friends, never designed to be submitted to
other eyes, and only brought forward now at the soli-
citation of wiser judges than the author himself."
No such plea can, in the present instance, be offered.
The record of events in which the writer had herself
no share, was preserved in compliance with the sug-
gestion of a revered relative, whose name often appears
in the following pages. " My child," she would say,
" write these things down, as I tell them to you. Here-
VI PEEFACE.
after our children, and even strangers will feel inte-
rested in hearing the story of our early lives and suf-
ferings." And it is a matter of no small regret and
self-reproach, that much, very much, thus narrated was,
through negligence, or a spirit of procrastination, suf-
fered to pass unrecorded.
With regard to the pictures of domestic life and ex-
perience (preserved, as will be seen in journals, letters,
and otherwise), it is true their publication might have
been deferred until the writer had passed away from the
scene of action ; and such, it was supposed, would have
been their lot that they would only have been dragged
forth hereafter, to show to a succeeding generation, what
" The Early Day," of our Western homes had been.
It never entered the anticipations of the most sanguine
that the march of improvement and prosperity would?
in less than a quarter of a century, have so obliterated
the traces of "the first beginning," that a vast and in-
telligent multitude would be crying out for informa-
tion in regard to the early settlement of this portion of
our country, which so few are left to furnish.
An opinion has been expressed, that a comparison of
the present times with those that are past, would en-
able our young people, emigrating from their luxurious
homes at " the East," to bear, in a spirit of patience and
contentment, the slight privations and hardships they
are at this day called to meet with. If, in one instance,
this should be the case, the writer may well feel happy
PREFACE. Vii
py to have incurred even the charge of egotism, in
giving thus much of her own history.
It may be objected that all that is strictly personal,
might have been more modestly put forth under the
name of a third person ; or that the events themselves
and the scenes might have been described, while those
participating in them might have been kept more in the
back-ground. In the first case, the narrative would have
lost its air of truth and reality in the second, the ex-
periment would merely have been tried of dressing up
a theatre for representation, and omitting the actors.
Some who read the following sketches, may be in-
clined to believe that a residence among our native
brethren and an attachment growing out of our peculiar
relation to^em, have exaggerated our sympathies,
and our sense of the wrongs they have received at the
hands of the whites. This is not the place to discuss
that point. There is a tribunal at which man shall
be judged, for that which he has meted out to his fel-
low-man.
May our countrymen take heed that their legislation
shall never unfit them to appear " with joy, and not
with grief" before that tribunal !
CHICAGO, July, 1855.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Detroit .- 13
CHAPTER n.
Michilimackinac American Fur Company Indian Trade Mission School Point
St. Ignace 18
CHAPTER HI.
Arrival at Green Bay Mrs. Arnot Gen. Root Political Despatches A Summerset
Shantie Town Mr. Rolette. Indian Morning-Song Mr. Cadle's Mission Party
at Mrs. Doty's"%Iiss Grignons Mrs. Baird's Party Hamilton A. Mrs. Beall 29
CHAPTER IV.
Arrangements for Travelling Fox River Judge Doty Judge Reaume M. Boilvin
Canadian Toyageurs : Their Songs The Kakalia Wish-tay-yun Rev. F-leazer
Williams Passage through the Rapids Grande Chute Christman 42
CHAPTER V.
Beautiful Encampment Winnehago Lake Miss Four-LegsGarlic Island Wild
Rice ------ ....60
CHAPTER VI.
Breakfast at Betty More's-Judge Law Fastidiousness ; What came of it - 68
CHAPTER VH.
Butte des Morts French Cognomens Serpentine Course of Fox River Lake Puck-
a-way Lac de Boeuf Fort Winnebago ...... 74
CHAPTER VHI.
Hajos and Mrs. Twig^s A. DavisAn Indian Funeral Conjugal Affliction Indian
Chiefs ; Talk English The Wild Cat The Dandy 83
X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX.
Housekeeping ; The First Dinner ------ 94
CHAPTER X.
Indian Payment Pawnee Blanc The Washington Woman Raising Funds 99
CHAPTER XI.
Louisa Garrison Life Dr. Newhall Affliction Domestic Accommodations Ephraim
New Year's Day Native Custom Day-kau-ray's Views of Education Capt.
Harney's Mince-Pie --------- 109
CHAPTER XII.
Lizzie Twiggs Preparations for a Journey The Regimental Tailor - - 128
CHAPTER XJIL
Departure from Fort Winnebago Duck Creek Upset in a Canoe Pillon Encamp-
ing in Winter Four Lakes Indian Encampment Blue Mound Morrison's A
Tennessee Woman ---.-.. . . 129
CHAPTER XIV.
Rev. Mr. Kent Losing One's Way A Tent Blown Down Discovery of a Fence
Hamilton's Ilig-yinps Frontier Housekeeping Wm. S. Hamilton A miner Hard
Riding Kcllogg's Grove -----... 143
CHAPTER XV.
Rr^ck river-Pixon's John Ogie Missing the Trail Hours of Trouble Famine in
the Camp Relief - - - - 156
CHAPTER XVI.
'. ' -'cwa'iiTvip T.-.c>r A Tpirpest Piche's Hawtey's The Dnpage Mr. Dougherty
-T'-c L>?i>"air>es Mrs. Lawton Wolf Point Chicago - - - 171
CHAPTER XVH.
^,, n v],-rT- rh'rnifo in IP?! First Fett'errent of Chicago John Kinzie, Sen.
v nf rvn-pe For?yf,h Trading Posts Canadian Toyageurs M. St. Jean
? -n's !a I.itorte ... . . . . . -185
CHAPTER XVHL
c-re at ChicaRO . .. . - . . -208
CONTEXTS. XI
CHAPTER XIX.
Massacre continued Mrs. Helm Ensign RonanCapt. Wells Mrs. Holt Mrs. Hcald
The Sau-ga-nash Sergeant Griffith Mrs. Burns Black Partridge and Mrs.
Lee Nau-non-gee and Sergeant Hays ...... 222
CHAPTER XX.
Treatment of American Prisoners by the British Captivity of Mr. Kinzie Battle on
Lake Erie Cruelty of Gen. Proctor's Troops Gen. Harrison Rebuilding of Fort
Dearborn Red Bird A Humorous Incident Cession of the Territory around
Chicago 348
CHAPTER XXI.
Severe Spring Weather Pistol-Firing Milk Punch A Sermon Pre-emption to
"Kinzie's Addition" Liberal Sentiments 360
CHAPTER XTTT.
The Captive 266
CHAPTER XXm.
Capt. McKillip Second Sight Bali at Hickory Creek Arrival of the "Napoleon"
Troubles of Embarkation ......... 288
^ CHAPTER XXIV.
Departure for Fort Winnebago A Frightened Indian Encampment at Dunkley's
Grove Horses Lost Getting Mired An Ague Cured by a Rattlesnake Crystal
Lake-Story of the Little Rail 300
CHAPTER XXV.
Return Journey Continued Soldiers' Encampment Big Foot Lake Village of
Maunk-suck A Young Gallant Climbing Mountain-Passes Turtle-Creek
Kosh-ko-nong Crossing a Marsh Twenty-Mile Prairie Basting's Woods Duck
Creek Brunei Home ........ 315
CHAPTER XXVI.
The Agency The Blacksmith's House Building a Kitchen Four-Legs, the Dandy
Indian Views of Civilization Efforts of M. Mazzuchelli Charlotte - 334
CHAPTER XXVII.
The Cut Nose The Fawn Visit of White Crow Parting with Friends Christman
Louisa again The Sunday School -846
CHAPTER XXVHI.
Plante Removal Domestic Inconveniences Indian Presents Grandmother Day
kau-ray Indian Customs Indian Dances The Medicine Dance Indian Graves
-Old Boilvin's Wake - - ' 364
Xii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Indian Tales Story of the Red Fox
CHAPTER
Btory of Shee-shee-banze ------- --377
CHAPTER XXXI.
Visit to Green Bay Disappointment Return Journey Knaggs' Blind Indian
Mau-zhee-gaw-gaw Swamp Bellefontaiive ----- 337
CHAPTER XXXn.
Commencement of Sank War Winnebago Council Crely Follett Bravery The
Little Elk An Alarm Man-Eater and his Party An Exciting Dance 400
CHAPTER XXXIH.
Fleeing from the Enemy Matu Old Smoker Meeting with Menomonees Raising
the Wind Garlic Island Winnebago Rapids The Wnu-be-nau-kees Thunder-
storm Vitelle Guardapie Fort Howard ..... 414
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Panic at Green Bay Tidings of Cholera Green Bay Flies Doyle, the Murderer-
Death of Lieut. Foster A Hardened Criminal Good News from the Seat of
War Departure for" Home Shipwreck at the Grand Chute A Wet Encampment
An Unexpected Arrival Re-Lnforcement of Volunteers La Grosse Americaine
Arrival at Home -.-,--.--431
CHAPTER XXXV.
Conclusion of The War Treaty at Rock Island Cholera among the Troops Wau
kaun-kaw Wild-Cat's Frolic at the Mee-kan Surrender of the Winnebago
Prisoners ....... ----448
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Delay in the Annual Payment Scalp Dances Groundless Alarm Arrival of Oov.
Porter Payment Escape of the Prisoners Neighbors Lost Re-appearance
Robineau Bellair ......... 460
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Agathe " Kinzie's Addition'' Toiuah Indian Acuteness Indian Simplicity 471
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Famine Day-kau-ray's Daughter Noble Resolution of a Chief Bread for the
Hungry Rev. Mr. Kent An Escaped Prisoner The Cut-Nose Again Leave-
taking with our Red Children Departure from Fort Winnebago - - 481
APPENDIX - ... ....... 490
TO THE
HON. LEWIS CASS,
THE "EARLY DAY" THE TRIED FRIEND
OF
THE PIONEER AND THE RED MAN
THE
JfoIIofohtg UPkntorials
ARE
RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED.
ag"
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM DETROIT.
IT was on a dark, rainy evening in the month of
September, 1830, that we went on board the steamer
" Henry Clay," to take passage for Green Bay. AH our
friends in Detroit had congratulated us upon our good
fortune in being spared the voyage in one of the little
schooners, which at this time afforded the ordinary
means of communication with the few and distant set-
tlements on Lakes Huron and Michigan.
Each one had some experience to relate of his own or
of his friends' mischances in these precarious journeys
long detentions on the St. Clair flats furious head
winds off Thunder Bay, or interminable calms at
Mackinac or the Manitous. That which most enhanced
our sense of peculiar good-luck, was the true story of
one of our relatives having left Detroit in the month
of June, and reached Chicago in the September follow-
ing, having been actually three months in performing
(18)
14 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
what is sometimes accomplished by even a sail- vessel
in four days.
But the certainty of encountering similar misadven-
tures would have weighed little with me. I was now
to visit, nay more, to become a resident of that land
which had, for long years, been to me a region of
romance. Since the time when, as a child, my highest
delight had been in the letters of a dear relative, de-
scribing to me his home and mode of life in the "Indian
country," and still later, in his felicitous narration of a
tour with General Cass, in 1820, to the sources of the
Mississippi nay, even earlier, in the days when I stood
at my teacher's knee, and spelled out the long word
Mich-i-li-mack-i-nac, that distant land, with its vast
lakes, its boundless prairies, and its mighty forests,
had possessed a wonderful charm for my imagination.
Now I was to see it ! it was to be my home !
Our ride to the quay, through the dark by-ways, in
a cart, the only vehicle which at that day could navi-
gate the muddy, unpaved streets of Detroit, was a
theme for much merriment, and not less so, our descent
of the narrow, perpendicular stair- way by which we
reached the little apartment called the Ladies' Cabin.
We were highly delighted with the accommodations,
which, by comparison, seemed the very climax of com-
fort and convenience; more especially as the occupants
of the cabin consisted, beside myself, of but a lady and
two little girls.
DEPASTURE FROM DETROIT. 15
Nothing could exceed the pleasantness of our trip
for the first twenty -four hours. There were some
officers, old friends, among the passengers. "We had
plenty of books. The gentlemen read aloud occasion-
ally, admired the solitary magnificence of the scenery
around us, the primeval woods, or the vast expanse of
water unenlivened by a single sail, and then betook
themselves to their cigar, or their game of eucre, to
while away the hours.
For a time the passage over Thunder Bay was de-
lightful, but alas ! it was not destined, in our favor, to
belie its name. A storm came on, fast and furious
what was worse, it was of long duration. The pitch-
ing and rolling of the little boat, the closeness, and
even the sea-sickness, we bore as became us. They
were what we had expected, and were prepared for.
But a new feature of discomfort appeared, which
almost upset our philosophy.
The rain, which fell in torrents, soon made its way
through every seam and pore of deck or moulding.
Down the stair-way, through the joints and crevices,
it came, saturating first the carpet, then the bedding,
until, finally, we were completely driven, "by stress
of weather," into the Gentlemen's Cabin. Way was
made for us very gallantly, and every provision re-
sorted, to for our comfort, and we were congratulating
ourselves on having found a haven in our distress,
when lo ! the seams above opened, and down upon our
16 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NOETH-WEST.
devoted heads poured such a flood, that even umbrellas
were an insufficient protection. There was nothing left
for the ladies and children but to betake ourselves to
the berths, which, in this apartment, fortunately re-
mained dry ; and here we continued ensconced the live-
long day. Our dinner was served up to us on our
pillows. The gentlemen chose the dryest spots, raised
their umbrellas, and sat under them, telling amusing '
anecdotes, and saying funny things to cheer us, until
the rain ceased, and at nine o'clock in the evening we
were gladdened by the intelligence that we had reached
the pier at Mackinac.
We were received with the most affectionate cordi-
ality by Mr. and Mrs. Eobert Stuart, at whose hospi-
table mansion we had been for some days expected.
The repose and comfort of an asylum like this, can
be best appreciated by those who have reached it after
a tossing and drenching such as ours had been. A
bright, warm fire, and countenances beaming with
kindest interest, dispelled all sensations of fatigue or
annoyance.
After a season of pleasant conversation, the servants
were assembled, the chapter of God's word was sol-
emnly read, the hymn chanted, the prayer of praise
and thanksgiving offered, and we were conducted to
our place of repose.
It is not my purpose here to attempt a portrait of
those noble friends whom I thus met for the first time.
DEPARTURE FROM DETROIT. \J
To an abler pen than mine, should be assigned the
honor of writing the biography of Kobert Stuart. All
who have enjoyed the happiness of his acquaintance,
or still more, a sojourn under his hospitable roof, will
carry with them, to their latest hour, the impression
of his noble bearing, his genial humor, his untiring
benevolence, his upright, uncompromising adherence
to principle, his ardent philanthropy, his noble disin-
terestedness. Irving in his "Astoria," and Franchere
in his "Narrative," give many striking traits of his
early character, together with events of his history of
a thrilling and romantic interest, but both have left the
most valuable portion unsaid, his after-life, namely, as
a Christian gentleman.
Of his beloved partner, who still survives him,
mourning on her bereaved and solitary pilgrimage, yet
cheered by the recollection of her long and useful
course as a " Mother in Israel," we will say no more
than to offer the incense of loving hearts, and prayers
for the best blessings from her Father in Heaven.
CHAPTER II.
MICHILIMACKINAC.
MICHILIMACKINAC ! that gem of the Lakes ! How
bright and beautiful it looked as we walked abroad on
the following morning ! The rain had passed away,
but had left all things glittering in the light of the sun
as it rose up over the waters of Lake Huron, far away
to the east. Before us was the lovely bay, scarcely yet
tranquil after the storm, but dotted with canoes and
the boats of the fishermen already getting but their
nets for the trout and whitensh, those treasures of the
deep. Along the beach were scattered the wigwams
or lodges of the Ottawas who had come to the island
to trade. The inmates came forth to gaze upon us.
A shout of welcome was sent forth, as they recognized
Shaw-nee-aw-kee, who, from a seven years' residence
among them, was well-known to each individual.
A shake- of the hand, and an emphatic " Bon-jour
Ion -jour" is the customary salutation between the
Indian and the white man.
"Do the Indians speak French?" I inquired of my
husband. "No; this is a fashion they have learned
of the French traders during many years of inter-
course."
(18)
MICHILIMACKINAC. 19
Not less hearty was the greeting of each Canadian
engage, as he trotted forward to pay his respects to
"Monsieur John," and to utter a long string of felici-
tations, in a most incomprehensible patois. I was
force4 to take for granted all the good wishes showered
upon " Madame John," of which I could comprehend
nothing but the hope that I should be happy and con-
tented in my " vie sauvage"
The object of our early walk was to visit the Mission-
house and school which had been some few years
previously established at this place, by the Presbyte-
rian Board of Missions. It was an object of especial
interest to Mr. and Mrs. Stuart, and its flourishing
condition at this period, and the prospects of extensive
future usefulness it held out, might well gladden their
philanthropic hearts. They had lived many years
on the island, and had witnessed its transformation,
through God's blessing on Christian efforts, from a
worldly, dissipated community to one of which it
might almost be said, " Eeligion was every man's busi-
ness." This mission establishment was the beloved child
and the common centre of interest of the few Protestant
families clustered around it. Through the zeal and
good management of Mr. and Mrs. Ferry, and the fos-
tering encouragement of the congregation, the school
was in great repute, and it was pleasant to observe the
effect of mental and religious culture in subduing
the mischievous, tricky propensities of the half-
20 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
breed, and rousing the stolid apathy of the genuine
Indian.
These were the palmy days of Mackinac. As the
head-quarters of the American Fur Company, and the
entrepot of the whole North- West, all <the trade in
supplies and goods on the one hand, and in furs and
products of the Indian country on the other, was in
the hands of the parent establishment or its numerous
outposts scattered along Lakes Superior and Michigan,
the Mississippi, or through still more distant regions.
Probably few are ignorant of the fact, that all the
Indian tribes, with the exception of the Miamis and
the "Wyandots, had, since the transfer of the old French
possessions to the British Crown, maintained a firm
alliance with the latter. The independence achieved
by the United States did not alter the policy of the
natives, nor did our Government succeed in winning
or purchasing their friendship. Great Britain, it is
true, bid high to retain them. Every year the leading
men of the Chippewas, Ottawas, Pottowattamies, Me-
nomonees, Winnebagoes, Sauks and Foxes, and even
still more remote tribes, journeyed from their distant
homes to Fort Maiden in Upper Canada, to receive their
annual amount of presents from their Great Father
across the water. It was a master-policy thus to keep
them in pay, and had enabled those who practised it
to do fearful execution through the aid of such allies
in the last war between the two countries,
MICHILIMACKINAC. 21
The presents they thus received were of considerable
value, consisting of blankets, broadcloths or strouding,
calicoes, guns, kettles, traps, silver-works (comprising
arm-bands, bracelets, brooches, and ear-bobs), looking-
glasses, combs, and various other trinkets distributed
with no niggardly hand.
The magazines and store-houses of the Fur Company
were the resort of all the upper tribes for the sale of
their commodities, and the purchase of all such articles
as they had need of, including those above enumerated,
and also ammunition, which, as well as money and
liquor, their British friends very commendably omitted
to furnish them.
Besides their furs, various in kind and often of great
value beaver, otter, marten, mink, silver-gray and
red fox, wolf, bear, and wild cat, musk-rat, and smoked
deer-skins the Indians brought for trade maple-sugar
in abundance, considerable quantities of both Indian
corn soApetit-ble* beans and the, folks avoines,\ or wild-
rice, while the squaws added to their quota of .mer-
chandize a contribution in the form of moccasins,
hunting -pouches, mococks, or little boxes of birch-
bark embroidered with porcupine quills and filled with
maple-sugar, mats of a neat and durable fabric, and
* Corn which has been parboiled, shelled from the cob, and
dried in the sun.
f Literally, crazy oats. It is the French name for the Meno-
monees.
22 THE "EAELY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
toy-models of Indian cradles, snow shoes, canoes,
&c. ; &c.
It was no unusual thing, at this period, to see a
hundred or more canoes of Indians at once approach-
ing the island, laden with their articles of traffic ; and
if to these we add the squadrons of large Mackinac
boats constantly arriving from the outposts, with the
furs, peltries, and buffalo-robes collected by the distant
traders, some idea may be formed of the extensive
operations and important position of the American
Fur Company, as well as of the vast circle of human
* beings either immediately or remotely connected with it.
It is no wonder that the philanthropic mind, survey-
ing these races of uncultivated heathen, should stretch
forward to the time when, by an unwearied devotion
of the white man's energies, and an untiring sacrifice
of self and fortune, his red brethren might rise in the
scale of social civilization when Education and
Christianity should go hand in hand, to make "the
wilderness blossom as the rose."
Little did the noble souls at this day rejoicing in the
success of their labors at Mackinac, anticipate that in less
than a quarter of a century there would remain of all
these numerous tribes but a few scattered bands, squalid,
degraded, with scarce a vestige remaining of their
former lofty character their lands cajoled or wrested
from them the graves of their fathers turned up by
the ploughshare themselves chased farther and far-
MICHILIMACKINAC. 23
ther towards tlie setting sun, until they were literally
grudged a resting place on the face of the earth !
Our visit to the Mission school was of short duration,
for the " Henry Clay" was to leave at two o'clock, and
in the meantime we were to see what we could of the
village and its environs, and after that, dine with Mr.
Mitchell, an old friend of my husband. As we walked
leisurely along over the white gravelly road, many of
the residences of the old inhabitants were pointed out
to me. There was the dwelling of Madame Lafram-
boise, an Ottawa woman, whose husband had taught
her to read and write, and who had ever after contin-
ued to use the knowledge she had acquired for the
instruction and improvement of the youth among her
own people. It was her custom to receive a class of
young pupils daily at her house, that she might give
them lessons in the branches mentioned, and also in
the principles of the Eoman Catholic religion, to which
she was deeply devoted. She was a woman of a vast
deal of energy and enterprise of a tall and command-
ing figure, and most dignified deportment. After the
death of her husband, who was killed while away at
his trading-post by a Winnebago named White Ox,
she was accustomed to visit herself the trading-posts,
superintend the clerks and engage's, and satisfy herself
that the business was carried on in a regular and prof-
itable manner.
The Agency-house, with its unusual luxuries of
24 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
piazza and gardens, was situated at the foot of the hill
on which the fort was built. It was a lovely spot, not-
withstanding the stunted and dwarfish appearance of
all cultivated vegetation in this cold northern latitude.
The collection of rickety, primitive-looking build-
ings, occupied by the officials of the Fur Company,
reflected no great credit on the architectural skill of
my husband, who had superintended their construc-
tion, he told me, when little more than a boy.
There were, besides these, the residences of the
Dousmans, the Abbotts, the Biddies, the Drews, and
the Lashleys, stretching away along the base of the
beautiful hill, crowned with the white walls and build-
ings of the fort, the ascent to which was so steep, that
on the precipitous face' nearest the beach staircases
were built by which to mount from below.
My head ached intensely, the effect of the motion
of the boat on the previous day, but I did not like to
give up to it ; so after I had been shown all that could
be seen of the little settlement in the short time al-
lowed us, we repaired to Mr. Mitchell's.
We were received by Mrs. M., an extremely pretty,
delicate woman, part French and part Sioux, whose
early life had been passed at Prairie du Chien, on the
Mississippi. She had been a great belle among the
young officers at Fort Crawford ; so much so, indeed,
that the suicide of the post-surgeon was attributed to
an unsuccessful attachment he had conceived for her.
MICHILIMACKDSTAC. 25
I was greatly struck with her soft and gentle manners,
and the musical intonation of her voice, which I soon
learned was a distinguishing peculiarity of those wo-
men in whom are united the French and native blood.
A lady, then upon a visit to the Mission, was of the
company. She insisted on my lying down upon the
sofa, and ministered most kindly to my suffering head.
As she sat by my side, and expatiated upon the new
sphere opening before me, she inquired:
" Do you not realize very strongly the entire de-
privation of religious privileges you will be obliged to
suffer in your distant home ?"
" The deprivation," said I, " will doubtless be great,
but not entire ; for I shall have my Prayer-Book, and
though destitute of a church, we need not be without a
mode of worship."
How often afterwards, when cheered by the consola-
tions of this precious book in the midst of the lonely
wilderness, did I remember this conversation, and bless
God that I could never, while retaining it, be without
" religious privileges."
We had not yet left the dinner-table, when the bell
of the little steamer sounded to summon us on board,
and we bade a hurried farewell to all our kind friends,
bearing with us their hearty wishes for a safe and pros-
perous voyage.
A finer sight can scarcely be imagined than Macki-
nac, from the water. As we steamed away from the
2
26 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
shore, the view came full upon us the sloping beach
with the scattered wigwams, and canoes drawn up here
and there the irregular, quaint-looking houses the
white walls of the fort, and beyond one eminence still
more lofty, crowned with the remains of old Fort
Holmes. The whole picture completed, showed the
perfect outline that had given the island its original
Indian name, Mich-i-li-mack-i-nack, the Big Turtle.
Then those pure, living waters, in whose depths the
fish might be seen gliding and darting to and fro,
whose clearness is such that an object dropped to the
bottom may be discerned at the depth of fifty or sixty
feet, a dollar lying far down on its green bed, looking
no larger than a half dime. I could hardly wonder at
the enthusiastic lady who exclaimed: "Oh! I could
wish to be drowned in these pure, beautiful waters I"
As we passed the extreme western point of the
island, my husband pointed out to me, far away to the
north-west, a promontory which he told me was Point
St. Ignace. It possessed great historic interest, as one
of the earliest white settlements on this continent. The
Jesuit missionaries had established here a church and
school as early as 1607, the same year in which a
white settlement was made at St. Augustine, in Flori-
da, and one year before the founding of Jamestown,
Virginia.
All that remains of the enterprises of these devoted
men, is the remembrance of their labors, perpetuated,
MICHILIMACKINAC. *tf* 27
in most instances, only by the names of the spots which
witnessed their efforts of love in behalf of their savage
brethren. The little French church at Sandwich, op-
posite Detroit, alone is left, a witness of the zeal and
self-sacrifice of these pioneers of Christianity.
Passing " Old Mackinac," on the main land, which
forms the southern border of the straits, we soon came
out into the broad waters of Lake Michigan. Every
traveller, and every reader of our history, is familiar
with the incidents connected with the taking of the old
fort by the Indians, in the days of Pontiac. How, by
means of a game of ball, played in an apparently
friendly spirit outside the walls, and of which the offi-
cers and soldiers had come forth to be spectators, the
ball was dexterously tossed over the wall, and the sav-
ages rushing in, under pretext of finding it, soon got
possession and massacred the garrison.
The little Indian village of L' Arbre Croche gleamed
far away south, in the light of the setting sun. "With
that exception, there was no sign of living habitation
along that vast and wooded shore. The gigantic forest-
trees, and here and there the little glades of prairie
opening to the water, showed a landscape that would
have gladdened the eye of the agriculturist, with its
promise of fertility ; but it was evidently untrodden by
the foot of man, and we left it, in its solitude, as we
took our course westward across the waters.
The rainy and gusty weather, so incident to the
28 THE "EAKLY DAY" OF THE NOKTH-WEST.
equinoctial season, overtook us again before we reached
the mouth of Green Bay, and kept us company until
the night of our arrival upon the flats, about three
miles below the settlement. Here the little steamer
grounded " fast and hard." As almost every one pre-
ferred braving the elements to remaining cooped up
in the quarters we had occupied for the past week, we
decided to trust ourselves to the little boat, spite of
wind, and rain, and darkness, and in due time we
reached the shore.
CHAPTER III.
GREEN BAY.
OUR arrival at Green Bay was at an unfortunate
moment. It was the time of a treaty between the
United States Government and the Menomonees and
"Wau-ba-na-kees. Consequently, not only the commis-
sioners of the treaty, with their clerks and officials, but
traders, claimants, travellers, and idlers innumera-
ble were upon the ground. Most of these were con-
gregated in the only hotel the place afforded. This
was a tolerably-sized house near the river-side, and as
we entered the long dining-room, cold and dripping
from the open boat, we were infinitely amused at the
motley assemblage it contained. Various groups were
seated around. New comers, like ourselves, stood
here and there, for there were not seats enough to ac-
commodate all who sought entertainment. Judge
Arndt, the landlord, sat calm and indifferent, his hands
in his pockets, exhibiting all the phlegm pf a Pennsyl-
vania Dutchman.
His fat, notable spouse was trotting round, now
stopping to scold about some one who, " burn his
30 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
skin !' ; had fallen short in his duty, now laughing good
humoredly until her sides shook, at some witticism
addressed to her.
She welcomed us very cordially, but to our inquiry,
" Can you accommodate us ?" her reply was, " Not I.
I have got twice as many people now as I know what
to do with. I have had to turn my own family out of
their quarters, what with the commissioners and the
lot of folks that has come in upon us."
" What are we to do then ? It is too late and stormy
to go up to Shanty-town to seek for lodgings."
" Well, sit you down and take your supper, and we
will see what we can do."
And she actually did contrive to find a little nook,
in which we were glad to take refuge from the multi-
tudes around us.
A slight board partition separated us from the apart-
ment occupied by General Eoot, of New York, one of the
commissioners of the treaty. The steamer in which we
came had brought the mail, at that day a rare blessing
to the distant settlements. The opening and reading
of all the dispatches, which the General received about
bed-tune, had, of course, to be gone through with, be-
fore he could retire to rest. His eyes being weak, his
secretaries were employed to read the communications.
He was a little deaf withal, and through the slight di-
vision between the two apartments the contents of the
letters, and his comments upon them, were unpleasant-
GREEN BAY. 31
ly audible, as he continually admonished his secretary
to raise his voice.
" What is that, Walter ? Bead that over again."
In vain we coughed and hemmed, and knocked over
sundry pieces of furniture. They were too deeply in-
terested to hear aught that passed around them, and if
we had been politicians we should have had all the se-
crets ol the working-metis pcurty at our disposal, out of
which to have made capital.
The next morning it was still rain ! rain ! nothing
but rain! In spite of it, however, the gentlemen
would take a small boat to row to the steamer, to bring
up the luggage, not the least important part of that
which appertained to us, being sundry boxes of silver
for paying the annuities to the Winnebagoes at the
Portage.
I went out with some others of the company upon
the piazza, to witness their departure. A gentleman
pointed out to me Fort Howard, on a projecting point
of the opposite shore, about three-quarters of a mile
distant the old barracks, the picketed inclosure, the
walls, all looking quaint, and, considering their mod-
ern erection, really ancient and venerable. Presently
we turned our attention to the boat, which had by this
time gained the middle of the river. One of the pas-
sengers was standing up in the stern, apparently giv-
ing some directions.
" That is rather a venturesome fellow," remarked
32 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
one; "if lie is not careful he will lose his balance."
And at this moment we saw him actually perform a
summerset backward, and disappear in the water.
" Oh I" cried I, "he will be drowned !"
The gentlemen laughed. " No, there he is ; they
are helping him in again."
The course of the boat was immediately changed,
and the party returned to the shore. It was not until
one disembarked and came dripping and laughing
towards me, that I recognized him as my own peculiar
property. He was pleased to treat the matter as a
joke, but I thought it rather a sad beginning of west-
ern experience.
He suffered himself to be persuaded to intrust the
care of his effects to his friends, and having changed
his dress, prepared to remain quietly with me, when
just at this moment a vehicle drove up to the door,
and we recognized the pleasant, familiar face of our
old friend, Judge Doty.
He had received the news of our arrival, and had
come to take us at once to his hospitable mansion.
We were only too happy to gather together, our bags
and travelling baskets, and accompany him without
farther ceremony.
Our drive took us first along the edge of Navarino,
next through Shanty-town (the latter a far more ap-
propriate name than the former), amid mud and mire,
over bad roads, and up and down hilly, break-neck
GEEEN BAY. 33
places, until we reached the little brick dwelling of our
friends. Mrs. Doty received us with such true, sisterly
kindness, and everything seemed so full of welcome,
that we soon felt ourselves at home.
We found that, expecting our arrival, invitations,
had already been prepared to assemble the whole cir-
cle of Green Bay society to meet us at an evening par-
ty this, in a new country, being the established mode
of doing honor to guests or strangers.
We learned, upon inquiry, that Captain Harney, who
had kindly offered to come with a boat and crew of
soldiers from Fort Winnebago, to convey us to that
place, our destined home, had not yet arrived; we
therefore felt at liberty to make arrangements for a few
days of social enjoyment at " the Bay."
It was pleasant to people, secluded in such a degree
from the world at large, to hear all the news we had
brought all the particulars of life and manners the
thousand little items that the newspapers of that day
did not dream of furnishing the fashions, and that
general gossip, in short, which a lady is erroneously
supposed more aufait of, than a gentleman.
I well remember that, in giving and receiving in-
formation, the day passed in a pretty uninterrupted
stream of communication. All the party except my-
self had made the journey, or rather voyage, up the
the Fox Eiver and down the Wisconsin to the Missis-
sippi.
2*
34 THE '"'EARLY DAY" OF IHE NORTH-WEST.
There were plenty of anecdotes of a certain trip
performed by them in company, along with, a French
trader and his two sisters, now making their ddbut as
western travellers. The manner in which Mademoiselle
Julie would borrow, without leave, a fine damask nap-
kin or two, to wipe out the ducks in preparation for
cooking the difficulty of persuading either of the sis-
ters of the propriety of washing and rinsing their table
apparatus nicely, before packing it away in the mess-
basket, the consequence of which was, that another
nice napkin must be stealthily whisked out, to wipe
the dishes when the hour for meals arrived the fun
of the young gentleman in hunting up his stray arti-
cles, thus misappropriated, from the nooks and corners
of the boat, tying them with a cord, and hanging them
over the stern, to make their way down the Wisconsin
to Prairie du Chien.
Then there was a capital story of M. Eolette him-
self. At one point on the route (I think in crossing
Winnebago Lake), the travellers met one of the Com-
pany's boats on its way to Green Bay for supplies.
M. K. was one of the agents of the Company, and the
people in the boat were his employes. Of course, after
an absence of some weeks from home, the meeting on
these lonely waters and the exchanging of news was
an occasion of great excitement.
The boats were stopped earnest greetings inter-
changed question followed question.
GREEN BAY. 35
" Eh ! bien have they finished the new house ?"
" Out, Monsieur"
" Et la cheminee, fume-t-elk ?" (Does the chimney
smoke ?)
"Won, Monsieur."
" And the harvest how is that ?"
" Very fine, indeed."
"Is the mill at work?"
" Yes, plenty of water."
" How is Whip ?" (his favorite horse.)
"Oh! Whip is first-rate,"
Everything, in short, about the store, the farm, the
business of various descriptions being satisfactorily
gone over, there was no occasion for farther delay. It
was time to proceed.
/ "Eh! bien adieu! bon voyage!"
"Arrachez mesgensf" (Go ahead, men'!)
Then suddenly " Arretez arretez !" (Stop, stop !)
" Comment se portent Madame Rolette et les enfans? "
(How are Mrs. Eolette and the children ?)
This day, with its excitement, was at length over,
and we retired to our rest, thankful that we had not
General Root and his secretary close to our bed's head,
with their budget of political news.
My slumbers were not destined, however, to be quite
undisturbed. I was awakened, at the first slight peep
36 THE "EARLY DAY" OF THE NORTH-WEST.
of dawn by a sound from an apartment beneath our
own a plaintive, monotonous chant, rising and then
falling in a sort of mournful cadence. It seemed to
me a wail of something unearthly so wild so strange
so unaccountable. In terror I awoke my husband,
who reassured me by telling me it was the morning
salutation of the Indians to the opening day.
Some Menomonees had been kindly given shelter
for the night in the kitchen below, and having fulfilled
their unvarying custom of chanting their morning
hymn, they now ceased, and again composed themselves
to sleep. But not so their auditor. There was to me
something inexpressibly beautiful in this morning song
of praise from the untaught sons of the forest. What
a lesson did it preach to the civilized, Christianized
world, too many of whom lie down and rise up without
an aspiration of thanksgiving to their Almighty Pre-
server without even a remembrance of His care, who
gives his angels charge concerning them ! Never has
the -impression of that simple act of worship faded from
my mind. I have loved to think that, with some, these
strains might be the outporing of a devotion as pure as
that of the Christian when he utters the inspiring
words of the sainted Ken
" Awake, my soul J and with the sun," &c.
Among the visitors who called to offer me a wel-
GREEN BAY. 37
come to the "West, were Mr. and Miss Cadle, who were
earnestly engaged in the first steps of their afterwards
flourishing enterprise for the education of Indian and
half-breed children. The school-houses . and chapel
were not yet erected, but we visited their proposed
site, and listened with great interest to bright antici-
pations of the future good that was to be accomplished
the success that was to crown their efforts for taming
the heathen, and teaching them the knowledge of their
Saviour, and the blessings of civilized life. The sequel
has shown how little the zeal of .the few can accom-
plish, when opposed to the cupidity of the many.
Our evening party went off as parties do elsewhere.
The most interesting feature to me, because the most
novel, was the conversation of some young ladies to
whom I was introduced, natives of Green Bay, or its
vicinity. Their mother was a Me-no-mo-nee, but their
father was a Frenchman, a descendant of a settler some
generations back, and who, there is reason to believe,
was a branch of the same family of Grignon to which the
daughter of Madame de Sevigne" belonged. At least, it
is said there are in the possession of the family many old
papers and records which would give that impression,
although the orthography of the name has become
slightly changed. Be that as it may, the Miss Grig-
nons were strikingly dignified, well-bred young ladies,
and there was a charm about their soft voices, and
38 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTHWEST.
original, unsophisticated remarks, very attractive to a
stranger.
They opened to me, however, a new field of appre-
hension ; for, on my expressing my great impatience to
see my new home, they exclaimed, with a look of
wonder,
" Vous riavez done pas peur des serpens F"
" Snakes ! was it possible there were snakes at Fort
Winnebago?"
" At the Portage ! oh ! yes one can never walk out
for them rattle-snakes copper-heads all sorts !"
I am not naturally timid, but I must confess that
the idea of the serpens sonnettes and the siffleurs was not
quite a subject of indiiference.
There was one among these young ladies whose tall,
graceful figure, rich, blooming complexion, and dark,
glancing eye, would have distinguished her in any
drawing-room and another, whose gentle sweetness
and cultivated taste made it a matter of universal re-
gret that she was afterwards led to adopt the seclusion
of a convent.
Captain Harney and his boat arrived in due time, and
active preparations for the comfort of our journey com-
menced under the kind supervision of Mrs. Doty.
The mess-basket was stowed with good things of every
description ham and tongue biscuit and plum-cake
not to mention the substantials of crackers, bread,
and boiled pork, the latter of which, however, a lady
GREEN BAY. 39
was supposed to be too fastidious to tliink of touching,
even if starving in the woods.
"We had engaged three Canadian voyageurs to take
charge of our tent, mess - basket, and matters and
things in general. Their business it was to be, to cut
the wood for our fires, prepare our meals, and give
a helping hand to whatever was going forward. A
messenger had also been sent to the Kakalin, or rapids,
twenty-one miles above, to notify Wish-tay-yun (the
blacksmith), the most accomplished guide through the
difficult passes of the river, to be in readiness for our
service on a specified day.
In the meantime, we had leisure for one more party,
and it was to be a "real western hop." Every
body will remember that dance at Mrs. Baird's. All
the people, young and old, that would be gathered
throughout, or, as it was the fashion to express it, on
Green Bay, were assembled. The young oflicers were
up from Fort Howard, looking so smart in their uni-
forms. Treasures of finery, long uncalled forth, were
now brought to light. Everybody was bound to do
honor to the strangers by appearing in their very best.
It was to be an entertainment unequalled by any given
before. All the house was put in requisition for the
occasion. Desks and seats were unceremoniously dis-
missed from Mr. B.'s office, which formed one wing, to
afford more space for the dancers. Not only the front
portion of the dwelling, but even the kitchen was made.
40 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
fit for the reception of company, in case any primitive
visitor, as was sometimes the case, should prefer sitting
down quietly there and smoking his cigar. I do not
know that this was actually done, but it was an emer-
gency that, in those days, had always to be provided
for.
Nothing could exceed the mirth and hilarity of the
company. No restraint, but of good manners no ex-
cess of conventionalities genuine, hearty good-humor
and enjoyment, such as pleasant, hospitable people, with
just enough of the French element to add zest to any-
thing like amusement, could furnish, to make the en-
tertainment agreeable. In a country so new, and
where, in a social gathering the number of the compa-
ny was, in a slight degree more important than the
quality, the circle was not always, strictly speaking,
select. For instance, the connexions of each family
must be invited, even if there was something " a little
peculiar" in their appearance, manners, or perhaps vo-
cation, which might make their presence not quite de-.
sirable.
I was aware of this, and was therefore more amused
than surprised when a clumsy little man, with a broad,
red, laughing face, waddled across the room to where I
had taken my seat after a dance, and thus addressed
me :
" Miss K , nobody hain't never introduced you
to me, but I've seen you a good many times, and I
GREEN BAY. 41
know jour husband very well, so I thought I might
just as well come and speak to you my name is
A dt."
" Ah ! Mr. A , good evening. I hope you are
enjoying yourself. How is your sister?"
" Oh ! she is a great deal worse her cold has got
into her eye, and it is all shot up."
Then turning full upon a lady* who sat near, radiant
with youth and beauty, sparkling with wit and genu-
ine humor :
" Oh ! Mrs. Beall," he began, " what a beautiful gown
you have got on, and how handsome you do look ! I
declare you're the prettiest woman in the room, and
dance the handsomest."
" Indeed, Mr. A ," replied she, suppressing her
love of fun and assuming a demure look, " I am afraid
you flatter me."
"No, I don't I'm in earnest. I've just come to
ask you to dance."
Such was the penalty of being too charming. Poor
A , in a cotillion, was not the least enlivening part
of this evening's entertainment.
* A niece of James Fennimore Cooper.
CHAPTER IV.
VOYAGKE UP FOX RIVER.
IT had been arranged that Judge Doty should ac-
company us in our boat as far as the Butte des Morts,
at which place his attendant would be waiting with
horses to convey him to Mineral Point, where he was
to hold court.
It was a bright and beautiful morning when we left
his pleasant home, to commence our journey up the Fox
River. Capt. Harney was proposing to remain a few
days longer at "the Bay," but he called to escort us to
the boat, and instal us in all its comforts.
As he helped me along over the ploughed ground
and other inequalities in our way to the river-bank,
where the boat lay, he told me how impatiently Mrs.
Twiggs, the wife of the commanding officer, who, since
the past spring had been the only white lady at Fort
Winnebago, was now expecting a companion and
friend. We had met in New York, shortly after her
marriage, and were, therefore, not quite unacquainted.
I, for my part, felt sure that when there were two of
us when my piano was safely there when the Post
Library which we had purchased should be unpacked
42
VOYAGE UP FOX RIVER. 43
when all should be fairly arranged and settled, we
should be, although far away in the wilderness, the
happiest little circle imaginable. All my anticipations
were of the most sanguine and cheerful character.
It was a moderate-sized Mackinac boat, with a crew
of soldiers, and our own three voyageurs in addition,
that lay waiting for us a dark-looking structure of
some thirty feet in length. Placed in the centre was a
framework of slight posts, supporting a roof of can-
vas, with curtains of the same, which might be let
down at the sides and ends, after the manner of a coun-
try stage-coach, or rolled up to admit the light and air.
In the midst of this little cabin or saloon was placed
the box containing my piano, and on it a mattress,
which was to furnish us a divan through the day and a
place of repose at .night, should the weather at any
time prove too wet or unpleasant for encamping. The
boxes of silver were stowed next. Our mess-basket was
in a convenient vicinity, and we had purchased a couple
of large square covered baskets of the Waubanakees,
or New York Indians, to hold our various necessary
articles of outward apparel and bedding, and at the
same time to answer as very convenient little work or
dinner tables.
As a true daughter of New England, it is to be
taken for granted I had not forgotten to supply myself
with knitting- work and embroidery. Books and pen-
cils were a matter of course.
44 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
The greater part of our furniture, together with the
various articles for housekeeping with which we had
supplied ourselves in New York and Detroit, were to
follow in another boat, under the charge of people
whose business it professed to be to take cargoes safely
up the rapids, and on to Fort "Winnebago. This was
an enterprise requiring some three weeks of time and a
great amount of labor, so that the owners of the goods
transported might think themselves happy to receive
them at last, in a wet, broken, and dilapidated condi-
tion. It was for this reason that we took our choicest
possessions with us, even at the risk of being a little
crowded.
Until now I had never seen a gentleman attired in a
colored shirt, a spotless white collar and bosom being
one of those "notions" that "Boston," and conse-
quently New England " folks," entertained of the be-
coming in a gentleman's toilette. Mrs. pass had laugh-
ingly forewarned me, that not only calico shirts, but
patchwork pillow-cases were an indispensable part of
a travelling equipment ; and, thanks to the taste and
skill of some tidy little Frenchwoman, I found our
divan pillows all accommodated in the brightest and
most variegated garb.
The Judge and my husband were gay with the
deepest of blue and pink. Each was prepared, besides,
with a bright red cap (a bonnet rouge, or tuque, as the
voyageurs call it), which, out of respect for the lady,
VOYAGE UP FOX EIVER. 45
was to be donned only when a hearty dinner, a dull
book, or the want of exercise made an afternoon nap
indispensable.
The Judge was an admirable travelling companion.
He had lived many years in the country, had been with
General Cass on his expedition to the head waters of the
Mississippi, and had a vast fund of anecdote regarding
early times, customs, and inhabitants.
Some instances of the mode of administering justice
in those days, I happen to recall.
There was an old Frenchman at "the Bay," named
Re"aume, excessively ignorant and grasping, although
otherwise tolerably good-natured. This man was ap-
pointed justice of the peace. Two men once appeared
before him, the one as plaintiff the other as defendant.
The justice listened patiently to the complaint of the
one, and the defence of the other ; then rising, with
dignity, he pronounced his decision :
" You are both wrong. You, Bois-vert," to the
plaintuT, "you bring me one load of hay; and you,
Crely," to the defendant, " you bring me one load of
wood ; and now the matter is settled." It does not
appear that any exceptions were taken to this verdict.
This anecdote led to another, the scene of which was
Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi.
There was a Frenchman, a justice of the peace, who
was universally known by the name of " Col. Boilvin."
His office was just without the walls of the fort, and it
46 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
was mucli the fashion among the officers to lounge in
there of a morning, to find sport for an idle hour, and
to take a glass of brandy-and- water with the old gen-
tleman, which he called "taking a little quelque-chose."
A soldier, named Fry, had been accused of stealing
and killing a calf belonging to M. Eolette, and the
constable, a bricklayer of the name of Bell, had been
dispatched to arrest the culprit and bring him to trial.
While the gentlemen were making their customary
morning visit to the justice, a noise was heard in the
entry, and a knock at the door.
" Come in," cried the old gentleman, rising and walk-
ing toward the door.
Bell. Here sir, I have brought Fry to you, as you
ordered.
Justice. Fry, you great rascal ! What for you kill
M. Rolette's calf?
Fry. I did not kill M. Rolette's calf.
Justice (shaking his fist). You lie, you great rascal I
Bell, take him to jail. Come gentlemen, come, let us
take a leetle quelque-chose.
The Canadian boatmen always sing while rowing, or
paddling, and nothing encourages them so much as to
hear the "bourgeois"* take the lead in the music. If
* Master or to use the emphatic Yankee term boss.
VOYAGE UP FOX RIVER. 47
the passengers, more especially those of the fair sex,
join in the refrain, the compliment is all the greater.
Their songs are of a light cheerful character, generally
embodying some little satire or witticism, calculated to
produce a spirited, sometimes an uproarious chorus.
The song and refrain are carried on somewhat in the
following style :
BOURGEOIS. Par derriere chez ma tante,
Par derriere che"z ma tante,
CHORUS. Par derriere chez ma tante,
Par derriere chez ma tante.
BOURGEOIS. H-y-a un coq qui chante,
Des pommes, des poires, des raves, des choux,
Des figues nouvelles, des raisins doux.
CHORUS. Des pommes, des poires, des raves, des choux,
Des figues nouvelles, des raisins doux.
BOURGEOIS. Il-y-a un coq qui chante,
H-y-a un coq qui chante,
CHORUS. Il-y-a un coq qui chante, &c.
BOURGEOIS. Demande une femme a prendre
Des pommes, des poires, des raves, des choux, &c.
CHORUS. Des pommes, des poires, &c.
BOURGEOIS. Demande une femme a prendre,
Demande une femme a, &c.
And thus it continues until the advice is given suc-
cessively.
Ne prenez pas une noire,
Car elles aiment trop a boire,
48 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
Ne prenez pas une rousse,
Car elles sont trop jalouses.
And by tlie time all the different qualifications are re-
hearsed and objected to, lengthened out by the inter-
minable repetition of the chorus, the shout of the bour-
geois is heard
" Whoop la ! a terre, a terre pour la pipe !"
It is an invariable custom for the voyageurs to stop
every five or six miles to rest and smoke, so that it
was formerly the way of measuring distances " so
many pipes," instead of " so many miles."
The Canadian melodies are sometimes very beau-
tiful, and a more exhilarating mode of travel can hardly
be imagined than a voyage over these waters, amid all
the wild magnificence of nature, with the measured
strokes of the oar keeping time to the strains of " Le
Rosier Blanc" " En roulant ma Boule" or " Leve ton
pied, majolie Bergere?\
The climax of fun seemed to be in a comic piece,
which, however oft-repeated, appeared never to grow
stale. It was somewhat after this fashion :
BOURGEOIS. Michaud est monte* dans un prunier,
Pour treiller des prunes.
La branche a cassc
CHORUS. Michaud a tombe ?
BOURGEOIS. Ou est-ce qu-il est ?
CHORUS. II est en bas.
VOYAGE UP FOX RIVER. 49
BOURGEOIS. Oh ! reveille, reveille, reveille,
Oh ! reveille, Michaud est en haut !*
It was always a point of etiquette to look astonished at
the luck of Michaud in remaining in the tree, spite of
the breaking of the branch, and the joke had to be re-
peated through all the varieties of fruit-trees that Mi-
chaud might be supposed able to climb.
By evening of the first day we arrived at the Kakalin,
where another branch of the Grignon family resided.
We were very pleasantly entertained, although in my
anxiety to begin my forest life, I would fain have had
the tent pitched on the bank of the river, and have
laid aside, at once, the indulgences of civilization.
This, however, would have been a slight, perhaps an
affront, so we did much better, and partook of the geod
cheer that was offered us in the shape of hot venison
steaks and crepes, and that excellent cup of coffee
which none can prepare like a Frenchwoman, and
which is so refreshing after a day in the open air.
The Kakalin is a rapid of the Fox Eiver, sufficiently
important to make the portage of the heavy lading of a
boat necessary; the boat itself being poled or dragged
up with cords against the current. It is one of a se-
ries of rapids and chutes, or falls, which occur be-
* Michaud climbed into a plnm-tree, to gather plums. The
branch broke. Michaud fell ! Where is he ? He is down on the
ground. No, he is up in the tree.
3
50 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
tween this point and Lake Winnebago, twenty miles
above.
The next morning, after breakfast, we took leave of
our hosts, and prepared to pursue our journey. The
bourgeois, from an early hour, had been occupied in su-
perintending his men in getting the boat and its load-
ing over the Kakalin. As the late rains had made the
paths through the woods and along the banks of the
river somewhat muddy and uncomfortable for walking,
I was put into an ox-cart, to be jolted over the unequal
road ; saluting, impartially, all the stumps and stones
that lay in our way, the only means of avoiding which
seemed to be, when the little, thick-headed Frenchman,
our conductor, bethought him of suddenly guiding his
cattle into a projecting tree or thorn-bush, to the great
detriment, not only of my straw-bonnet, but of my
very eyes.
But we got through at last, and arriving at the head
of the rapids, I found the boat lying there, all in readi-
ness for our re-embarking.
Our Monomonee guide, Wish-tay-yun, a fine, stal-
wart Indian, with an open, good-humored, one might
almost say roguish countenance, came forward to be
presented to me.
"Bon -jour, bon-jour, maman" was his laughing
salutation. Again I was surprised, not as before at
the French, for to that I had become accustomed, but
at the respectable title he was pleased to bestow upon
me.
VOYAGE UP FOX RIVER. 51
"Yes," said my husband, "you must make up your
mind to receive a very numerous and well-grown fam-
ily, consisting of all the Winnebagoes, Pottowattamies,
Chippewas, and Ottawas, together with such Sioux,
Sacs, and Foxes, and lowas, as have any point to gain
in applying to me. By the first named tribe, in virtue
of my office, and by the others as a matter of courtesy,
I am always addressed as ' father' you, of course,
will be their ' mother? "
Wish-tay-yun and I were soon good friends, my hus-
band interpreting to me the Chippewa language in
which 'he spoke. We were impatient to be off, the
morning being already far advanced, and all things
being in readiness, the word was given.
" Pousse au large, mes gens /" (Push out, my men).
At this moment a boat was seen leaving the oppo-
site bank of the river and making towards us. It con-
tained white men, and they showed by signs that they
wished to detain us until they came up. They drew
near, and we found them to be Mr. Marsh, a mission-
ary among the Wau-ba-na-kees, or the New York
Indians, lately brought into this country, and the Rev.
Eleazar Williams,* who was at that time living among
his red brethren on the left bank of the Fox River.
To persons so situated, even more emphatically than
to those of "the settlements," the arrival of visitors
from the " east countrie" was a godsend indeed. We
* The supposed Dauphin of France.
52 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST
had to give all the news of various kinds that we had
brought political, ecclesiastical, and social as well as
a tolerably detailed account of what we proposed to do,
or rather what we hoped to be able to do, among our
native children at " the Portage."
I was obliged, for my part, to confess that, being
almost entirely a stranger to the Indian character and
habits, I was going among them with no settled plans
of any kind general good- will, and a hope of making
them my friends, being the only principles I could lay
claim to at present. I must leave it for time and a
better acquaintance to show me in what way the prin-
ciple could be 'carried out for their greatest good.
Mr. Williams was a dark-complexioned, good-looking
man. Having always heard him spoken of, by his
relations in Connecticut, as " our Indian cousin," it
never occurred to me to doubt his belonging to that
race, although I now think that if I had met him else-
where, I should have taken him for a Spaniard or a
Mexican. His complexion had decidedly more of the
olive than the copper hue, and his countenance was
grave, almost melancholy. He was very silent during
this interview, asking few. questions, and offering no
observations except in reply to some question addressed
to him.
It was a hard pull for the men up the rapids. Wish-
tay-yun, whose clear, sonorous voice was the bugle of
the party, shouted and whooped each one answered
with a chorus, and a still more vigorous effort. By-
VOYAGE UP FOX BIVER. 53
and-by the boat would become firmly set between two
huge stones
" Whoop la ! whoop ! whoop 1"
Another pull, and another, straining every nerve
in vain.
"She will not budge!"
"Men, overboard!" and instantly every rower is
over the side and into the water.
By pulling, pushing, and tugging, the boat is at
length released from her position, and the men walk
along beside her, helping and guiding her, until they
reach a space of comparatively smooth water, when
they again take their seats and their oais.
It will be readily imagined that there were few songs
this day, but very frequent pipes, to refresh the poor
fellows after such an arduous service.
It was altogether a new spectacle to me. In fact, I
had hardly ever before been called upon to witness
severe bodily exertion, and my sympathies and sensi-
bilities were, for this reason, the more enlisted on the
occasion. It seemed a sufficient hardship to have to
labor in this violent manner ; but to walk in cold water
up to their waists, and then to sit down in their soak-
ing garments without going near a fire ! Poor men !
this was too much to be borne ! What then was my
consternation to see my husband, who, shortly after
our noontide meal, had surprised me by making his
appearance in a pair of duck trowsers and light jacket,
at the first cry of "fast, again!" spring over into the
54 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
water with the men, and "bear a hand" throughout
the remainder of the day.
When he returned on board, it was to take the oar
of a poor, delicate-looking boy, one of the company of
soldiers, who from the first had suffered with bleeding
at the nose on every unusual exertion. I was not sur-
prised, on inquiring, to find that this lad was a recruit
just entered the service. He passed by the name of
Gridley, but that was undoubtedly an assumed name.
He had the appearance of having been delicately nur-
tured, and had probably enlisted without at all appre-
ciating the hardships and discomforts of a soldier's life.
This is evident from the dissatisfaction he always con-
tinued to feel, until at length he deserted from his post.
This was some months subsequent to the lime of which
I am writing. He was once retaken, and kept for a time
in confinement, but immediately on his release deserted
again, and his remains were found the following spring,
not many miles from the fort. He had died, either of
cold or starvation. This is a sad interlude we will
return to our boating.
With all our tugging and toiling we had accomplished
but thirteen miles since leaving the Kakalin, and it
was already late when we arrived in view of the
" Grande Chute," near which we were to encamp.
We had passed the "Little Chute" (the spot where
the town of Appleton now stands) without any farther
observation than that it required a vast deal of extra
VOYAGE UP FOX RIVER. 55
exertion to buffet with the rushing stream, and come
off, as we did, victorious.
The brilliant light of the setting sun was resting on
the high wooded banks through which broke the beau-
tiful, foaming, dashing waters of the Chute. The boat
was speedily turned toward a little headland project-
ing from the right bank, which had the advantage of
a long strip of level ground, sufficiently spacious to
afford- a good encamping ground. I jumped ashore
before the boat was fairly pulled up by the men, and
with the Judge's help made my way as rapidly as pos-
sible to a point lower down the river, from which, he
said, the best view of the Chute could be obtained. I
7 >
was anxious to make a sketch before the daylight quite
faded away.
The left bank of the river was to the west, and over
a portion less elevated than the rest the sun's parting
rays fell upon the boat, the men with their red caps
and belts, and the two tents already pitched. The
smoke now beginning to ascend from the evening fires,
the high wooded bank beyond, up which the steep
portage path could just be discerned, and more remote
still, the long stretch of waterfall now darkening in
the shadow of the overhanging forests, formed a lovely
landscape, to which the pencil of an artist could alone
do justice.
This was my first encampment, and I was quite en-
chanted with the novelty of everything about me.
The fires had been made of small saplings and under-
56 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
brush, hastily collected, the mildness of the weather
rendering anything beyond what sufficed for the pur-
poses of cooking and drying the men's clothes, super-
fluous. The soldiers' tent was pitched at some dis-
tance from our own, but not too far for us to hear dis-
tinctly their laughter and apparent enjoyment, after
the fatigues of the day.
Under the careful superintendence of Corporal Kil-
gour, however, their hilarity never passed the bounds
of respectful propriety, and, by the time we had eaten
our suppers, cooked in the open air with the simple
apparatus of a tea-kettle and frying-pan, we were, one
and all, ready to retire to our rest.
The first sound that saluted our ears in the early
dawn of the following morning, was the far-reaching
call of the bourgeois :
" How ! how! how !" uttered at the very top of his
voice.
All start at that summons, and the men are soon
turning out of their tents, or rousing from their slumbers
beside the fire, and preparing for the duties of the day.
The fire is replenished, the kettles set on to boil, the
mess-baskets opened, and a portion of their contents
brought forth to be made ready for breakfast. One
Frenchman spreads our mat within the tent, whence
the bedding has all been carefully removed and packed
up for stowing in the boat. The tin cups and plates
are placed around on the new-fashioned table cloth.
The heavy dews make it a little too damp for us to
VOYAGE UP FOX RIVER. 57
breakfast in the open air, otherwise our preparations
would be made outside, upon the green grass. In an
incredibly short time our smoking coffee and broiled
ham are placed before us, to which are added, from
time to time, slices of toast brought hot and fresh from
the glowing coals.
There is, after all, no breakfast like a breakfast in
the woods, with a well-trained Frenchman for master
of ceremonies.
It was a hard day's work to which the men now
applied themselves, that of dragging the heavy boat
up the Chute. It had been thought safest to leave the
piano in its place on board, but the rest of the lading
had to be carried up the steep bank, and along its
summit, a distance of some hundreds of rods, to the
smooth water beyond, where all the difficulties of our
navigation terminated.
The Judge kindly took charge of me, while " the
bourgeois" superintended this important business, and
with reading, sketching, and strolling about, the morn-
ing glided away. Twelve o'clock came, and still the
preparations for starting were not yet completed.
In my rambles about to seek out some of the finest
of the wild flowers for a bouquet, before my husband's
return, I came upon the camp fire of the soldiers. A
tall, red-faced, light-haired young man in fatigue dress
was attending a kettle of soup, the savoury steams of
which were very attractive.
Seeing that I was observing his occupation, he
3*
58 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
politely laded out a tin cup full of the liquid and offer-
ed it to me.
I declined it, saying we should have our dinner im-
mediately.
" They left me here to get their dinner," said he,
apparently not displeased to have some one to talk to ;
" and I thought I might as well make some soup. Down
on the German Flats, where I come from, they always
like soup."
" Ah ! you are from the German Flats then your
name must be Bellinger or Weber."
"No it isn't it's Christman."
" Well, Christman, how do you like the service ?"
" Very well. I was only recruited last summer. I
used to ride horse on the Canawl, and as I can blow a
horn first-rate, I expect I will soon be able to play on
a bugle, and then, when I get to be musician, you
know, I shall have extra pay."
I did not know it, but I expressed due pleasure at
the information, and wishing Christman all manner of
success in his dreams of ambition, or rather I should
say, of avarice, for the hopes of " extra pay" evidently
preponderated over those of fame, I returned to my
own quarters.
My husband, with his French tastes, was inclined
to be somewhat disappointed when I told him of
this little incident, and my refusal of Christman's
soup ; but we were soon gratified by seeing his tall,
awkward form bearing a kettle of the composition,
VOYAGE UP FOX RIVER. 59
which he set down before the two gentlemen, by whom,
to his infinite satisfaction, it was pronounced excellent.
Every thing being at length in readiness, the tents
were struck and carried around the Portage, and my
husband, the Judge, and I followed at our leisure.
The woods were brilliant with wild flowers, although
it was so late in the season that the glory of the
summer was well nigh past. But the lupin, the moss-
pink, and the yellow wallflower, with all the varieties
of the helianthus, the astor, and the solidago, spread
their gay charms around. The gentlemen gathered
clusters of the bitter-sweet (celastrus scandens) from
the overhanging boughs to make a wreath for my hat,
as we trod the tangled pathway, which, like that of
Christabelle, was
" Now in glimmer and now in gloom,'-
through the alternations of open glade and shady
thicket. Soon, like the same lovely heroine,
" We reached the place right glad we were,"
and without further delay, we were again on board
our little boat and skimming over the now placid
waters.
CHAPTER V.
WINNEBAQO LAKE-MISS FOUR-LEGS,
OUR encampment this night was the most charming
that can be imagined. Owing to the heavy service
the men had gone through, in the earlier part of the
day, we took but a short stage for the afternoon, and
having pulled some seven or eight miles to a spot a
short distance below the " little Butte," we drew in at
a beautiful opening among the trees.
The soldiers now made a regular business of en-'
camping by cutting down a large tree for their fire,
and applying themselves to the preparing of a sufficient
quantity of food for their next day's journey, a long
stretch, namely, of twenty-one miles across Winne-
bago Lake. Our Frenchmen did the same. The fire
caught in the light dry grass by which we were sur-
rounded, and soon all was blaze and crackle.
Fortunately the wind was sufficient to take the
flames all in one direction, and besides, there was not
enough fuel to have made them a subject of any alarm.
We hopped upon the fallen logs, and dignified the
little circumscribed affair with the name of " a prairie
(60)
WTNNEBAGO LAKE MISS FOUR-LEGS. 61
on fire." The most serious inconvenience was its
having consumed all the dry grass, some armfuls of
which, spread under the bearskin in my tent, I had
found, the night before, a great improvement to my
place of repose.
Our supper was truly delightful, at the pleasant sun-
set hour, under the tall trees beside the waters that
ran murmuring by ; and when the bright, broad moon
arose, and shed her flood of light over the scene, so
wild yet so beautiful in its vast solitude, I felt that I
might well be an object of envy to the friends I had
left behind.
But all things have an end, and so must at last
my enthusiasm for the beauties around me, and, albeit
unwillingly, I closed my tent, and took my place
within, so near the fall of canvas that I might raise it
occasionally and peep forth upon the night.
In tune all was quiet. The men had become silent,
and appeared to have retired to rest, and we were just
sinking to our slumbers, when a heavy tread and
presently a bluff voice were heard outside.
"Mr. Kinzie Mr. Kinzie!"
" Who is there ? What is it ?"
"I'm Christman; didn't you mean, sir, that the men
should have any liquor to-night?"
" Of course I did. Has not Kilgour given out your
rations?"
" No ! he says you did not say anything particular
about it, and he was not coming to ask you if you for-
62 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
got it ; but I thought I wouldn't be bashful I'd just
come and ask."
" That is right. Tell Kilgour I should like to have
him serve out a ration apiece."
"Thank you, sir," in a most cheerful tone; "I'll tell
him."
Christman was getting to be quite a character with
us. A row of a few miles, on the following morning,
brought us to Four-Legs' village,* at the entrance to
Winnebago Lake, a picturesque cluster of Indian huts,
spread around on a pretty green glade, and shaded
by fine lofty trees.
We were now fairly in the Winnebago country, and
I soon learned that the odd-sounding name of the
place was derived from the principal chief of the nation,
whose residence it was. The inhabitants were absent,
having, in all probability, departed to their wintering
grounds. We here took leave of our friend Wish-tay-
yun, at the borders of whose country we had now
arrived.
"Bon-jour, Chonf" (John) "bon-jour, maman" A
hearty shake of the hand completed his adieu, as we
pushed off into the lake, and left him smoking his kin-
nee-kin-nick,f and waiting until the spirit should move
him to take up his long Indian trot towards his home
in the Menomonee country.
* The site of the town of Nee-nah
f The bark of the red willow, scraped fine, which is preferred by
the Indians to tobacco.
:
':>
5 (pal
WINNEBAGO LAKE MISS FOUR- LEGS. 63
"With him our sunshine seemed to have departed.
The skies, hitherto so bright and serene, became over-
cast, and instead of the charming voyage we had anti-
cipated over the silver waters of the lake, we were
obliged to keep ourselves housed under our canvas
shelter, only peeping out now and then, to catch a
glimpse of the surrounding prospect through the pour-
ing rain.
It was what might have been expected on an au-
tumnal day, but we were unreasonable enough to find
it tedious ; so, to beguile the time and lessen my dis-
appointment, my husband related to me some incidents
of his early history, apropos to the subject of "Four-
Legs."
While he was living at Prairie du Chien, in the em-
ploy of the American Fur Company, the chiefs and
other Indians, from the Upper Mississippi, used fre-
quently to come to the place to sell their furs and pel-
tries, and to purchase merchandise, ammunition, trin-
kets, &c.
As is usual with all who are not yet acclimated, he
was seized with chills and fever. One day, while
suffering with an unusually severe access of the latter,
a chief of the Four-Legs family, a brother to the one
before-mentioned, came in to the Company's warehouse
to trade. There is no ceremony or restraint among the
Indians, so hearing that Shaw-nee-aw-kee was sick,
Four-Legs instantly made his way to him, to offer his
sympathy and prescribe the proper remedies.
64 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
Every one who has suffered from ague and the in-
tense fever that succeeds it, knows how insupportable
is the protracted conversation of an inconsiderate person,
and will readily believe that the longer Four-Legs
continued his pratings the higher mounted the fever of
the patient, and the more intolerable became the pain
of head, back, and limbs.
At length the old man-arrived at the climax of what
he had to say. " It was not good for a young man, suf-
fering with sickness, and away from his family, to be
without a home and a wife. He had a nice daughter
at home, handsome and healthy, a capital nurse, the
best hand in all the tribe at trapping beaver and
musk-rats. He was coming down again in the spring,
and he would bring her with him, and Shaw-nee-aw-
kee should see that he had told no falsehood about
her. Should he go now, and bring his daughter the
next time he came?"
Stunned with his importunate babble, and anxious
only for rest and quiet, poor Shaw-nee-aw-kee eagerly
assented, and the chief took his departure.
So nearly had his disorder been aggravated to de-
lirium, that the young man forgot entirely, for a time,
the interview and the proposal which had been made
him. But it was recalled to his memory some months
after, when Four-Legs made his appearance, bringing
with him a squaw of mature age, and a very Hecate
for ugliness. She carried on her shoulders an im
mense pack of furs, which, approaching with her awk-
WINNEBAGO LAKE MISS FOUR-LEGS. 65
ward criss-cross gait, she threw at Ms feet, thus marking,
by an Indian custom, her sense of the relation that
existed between them.
The conversation with her father now flashed across
his mind, and he began to be sensible that he had got
into a position that it would require some skill to extri-
cate himself from.
He bade one of the young clerks take up the pack
and carry it into the magazine where the furs were
stored, then he coolly went on talking with the chief
about indifferent matters.
Miss Four-legs sat awhile with a sulky, discontented
air, at length she broke out,
" Humph ! he seems to take no more notice of me
than if I was nobody !"
He again turned to the clerk " Give her a calico
shirt and half a dozen bread tickets."
This did not dissipate the gloom on her countenance.
Finding that he must commence the subject, the father
says,
" Well, I have brought you my daughter, according
to our agreement. How do you like her?"
" Ah ! yes, she is a very nice young woman, and
would make a first-rate wife, I have no doubt. But
do you know a very strange thing has happened since
you were here ? Our father, Govenor Cass,* has sent
for me to come to Detroit ; that he may send me among
* General Cass was then Governor of Michigan, and Superinten-
dent of the North-western Indians.
66 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
the Wyandots and other nations to learn their customs
and manners. Now if I go, as I shall be obliged to do,
I shall be absent two or three years perhaps four.
What then ? Why, the people will say, Shaw-nee-aw-
kee has married Four-Legs' daughter, and then has
hated her and run away from her, and so everybody
will laugh at her, and she will be ashamed. It will be
better to take some good, valuable presents, blankets,
guns, &c., and to marry her to one of her own people,
who will always stay by her and take care of her."
The old man was shrewd enough to see that it was
wisest to make the best bargain he could. I have no
doubt it cost a round sum to settle the matter to the
satisfaction of the injured damsel, though I have never
been able to ascertain how much. This, I know, that
the young gentleman took care not to make his next
bargain while in a fit of the ague. The lady up on
the Mississippi is called, in derision, by his name to
tliis day.
About midway of the lake we passed Garlic Island
a lovely spot, deserving of a more attractive name. It
belonged, together with the village on the opposite
shore to " Wild Cat," a fat, jolly, good-natured fellow,
by no means the formidable animal his name would
imply.
He and his band were absent, like their neighbors
of Four-Legs village, so there was nothing- to vorv thft
monotony of our sail. It was too wet to sing, and the
men, although wrapped in their overcoats, looked like
WINNEBAGO LAKE MISS FOUR-LEGS. 67
drowned chickens. They were obliged to ply their
oars with unusual vigor to keep themselves warm and
comfortable, and thus probably felt less than we, the
dullness and listlessness of the cold, rainy, October
day.
Towards evening the sun shone forth. "We had
passed into the Fox River, and were just entering that
beautiful little expanse known as Butte des Morts Lake,
at the further extremity of which we were to encamp
for the night.
The water along its shores was green with the fields
of wild rice, the gathering of which, just at this season,
is an important occupation of the Indian women.
They push their canoes into the thick masses of the
rice, bend it forward over the side with their paddles,
and then beat the ripe husks off the stalks into a cloth
spread in the canoe. After this, it is rubbed to sepa-
rate the grain from the husk, and fanned in the open
air. It is then put in their cordage bags and packed
away for winter use. The grain is longer and more
slender than the Carolina rice it is of a greenish, olive
color, and, although it forms a pleasant article of food,
it is far from being particularly nutritive. The Indians
are fond of it in the form of soup, with the addition of
birds or venison.
CHAPTER VI.
BREAKFAST AT BETTY MORE'S.
THE earth, the trees, and the shrubbery were all too
much filled with the heavy rain which had fallen to
allow us to think of encamping, so we made arrange-
ments to bestow ourselves in our little saloon for the
night. It was rather a difficult matter to light a fire,
but among the underbrush, in a wild, undisturbed spot,
there will always be found some fragments of dried
branches, and tufts of grass which the rain has not
reached, and by the assistance of the spunk, or light-
wood, with which travellers always go well provided,
a comforting fire was at length blazing brightly.
After our chilling, tedious day, it was pleasant to
gather round it, to sit on the end of the blazing logs,
and watch the Frenchmen preparing our supper the
kettle, nestling in a little nook of bright glowing coals
the slices of ham browning and crisping on the forked
sticks, or " broches," which the voyageurs dexterously
cut, and set around the burning brands the savory
messes of " pork and onions" hissing in the frying pan,
always a tempting regale to the hungry Frenchmen.
Truly, it needs a wet chilly journey, taken nearly fast-
BREAKFAST AT BETTY MORE'S. 69
ing, as ours had been, to enable one to enjoy to its full
extent that social meal a supper.
The bright sun, setting amid brilliant masses of
clouds, such as are seen only in our western skies, gave
promise of a fine day on the morrow, with which com-
forting assurance we. were glad to take our leave of
him, and soon after of each other.
We had hardly roused up the following morning, in
obedience to the call of the bourgeois, when our eyes
were greeted with the sight of an addition to our com-
pany a tall stalwart, fine-looking, young " mitiff," or
half-breed, accompanied by two or three Indians.
Vociferous and joyous were the salutations of the lat-
ter to their "father" and their new "mother." They
were the first Winnebagoes I had seen, and they were
decidedly not the finest specimens of their tribe. The
mitiff, a scion of the wide-spreading tree of the Grig-
nons, was the bearer of an invitation to us from Judge
Law, who, with one or two Green Bay friends, was
encamped a few miles above, to come and breakfast
with him in his tent. We had not dreamed of finding
white neighbors here, but our vicinity could be no
secret to them, as long as there was an Indian in the
neighborhood. So, delaying only for the soldiers to
finish their breakfast, we pushed on for the " Butte des
Morts," or, as old Mrs. Arndt always persisted in call-
ing it, Betty Morels.
The white tent of the Judge gleamed in the morning
70 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
sun as we approached the little rising ground on which
it stood. The river was filled with canoes paddled
principally by squaws. Many Indians were to be
seen on the banks, all with their guns and hunting
accoutrements, for the airwas filled in every direction
with flocks of teal, which at this season are most abun-
dant and delicious. The immense fields of wild rice
abounding here and in the little lake below, make this
vicinity their favorite place of resort in the autumn
months. The effect of this nourishing food is, to make
the flesh of the birds so fat, so white, and so tender,
that a caution is always given to a young sportsman
to fire only at such as fly very low, for if shot high in
the air they are bruised to pieces, and rendered unfit
for eating by their fall to the ground.
We were hemmed in by a little fleet of canoes which
surrounded us, the women chattering, laughing, and
eagerly putting forward their little wooden bowls of
fresh cranberries as an offering of welcome to me.
I amused myself with tossing crackers to them, some
of which would reach them, others would fall into the
water, and then such a scrambling and shouting!
Hands and paddles were in requisition, and loud was
the triumph of her who was successful in reaching a
floating one.
Among the Indians with whom Shaw-nee-aw-kee
was now engaged in shaking hands, and who all seem-
ed old friends, were some fine, straight, well-formed
BREAKFAST AT BETTY MORE'S. 71
figures, all of them exhibiting frames capable of en-
during fatigue and the hardships of their mode of life.
One was describing with much gesticulation the abun-
dance of the game in the neighborhood, and he seemed
greatly delighted at receiving a quantity of ammuni-
tion, with which he instantly departed to make good
his boasts in the matter.
After walking a short distance we reached the tent,
where I was introduced to Judge Law and a pleasant
little gray-haired French gentleman of the name of
Porlier. Several voyageurs and half-breeds were near,
the former busily at work, the latter lounging for the
most part, and going through with what they had to
do with a sort of listless indifference.
The contrast between the " all-alive" air of the one
class and the apathetic manner of the other, was quite
striking.
After a short conversation among the members of the
party, breakfast was announced, and we entered the
tent and took our seats on the ground around the In-
dian mat, which supplied the place of a table.
The post of honor, namely, the head of the table,
was of course given to me, so that I could not only look
around upon the circle of the company, but also enjoy
a fine view out of the open door of the tent, and take
an observation of all that was going on at the side-table
outside. Judge Doty sat opposite me, with his back
to the opening of the tent, and the other gentlemen on
72 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST
either hand. We had for our waiter the tall " mitiff "
who had been the messenger of the morning. He was
still in the same garb calico shirt, bright colored scarf
around his waist, and on his head a straw hat encircled
with a band of black ostrich feathers, the usual dress
of his class.
The tin cups which were to hold our coffee were
duly set around, then breakfast plates of the same
metal, with knives and forks, then followed the viands,
among the most conspicuous of which was a large tin
pan of boiled ducks.
The Judge, wishing to show, probably, that although
we were in the vast wilderness, all fastidious nicety had
not been left'behind, took up the plate which had been
set before him, and seeing something adhering to it
which did not exactly please him, handed it over his
shoulder to Grignon, requesting him to wipe it carefully.
Grignon complied by pulling a black silk barcelona
handkerchief out of his bosom, where it had been
snugly tucked away to answer any occasion that might
present itself, and giving the tin a furious polishing,
handed it back again. The Judge looked at it with a
smile of approbation, and giving a glance round the
table as much as to say, " You see how I choose to have
things done," applied himself to his breakfast.
The trail for Fort Winnebago then led from the
shore opposite Butte des Morts, through Ma-zhee-
gaw-gaw swamp, and past Green Lake, and it was well
BREAKFAST AT BETTY MORE's. 73
for the Judge that his horses stood waiting for him to
" mount and away" as early as possible after breakfast,
or I am afraid the story I should have been tempted to
tell, would have made his ride an uncomfortable one
throughout the day.
We had hardly finished breakfast when our hunter,
who had received the ammunition, returned, bringing
with him about fifty fine ducks, which he had shot in
little more than an hour. From that time until the
close of our journey, our supply of these delicate birds
was never wanting.
CHAPTER YII
BUTTE DES MORTS,-LAKE PUCKAWAY.
THE Butte des Morts, or Hillock of the Dead, was
the scene long since* of a most sanguinary battle be-
tween the French and the Mis-qua-kees, or Foxes.
So great was the carnage in this engagement, that the
memory of it has been perpetuated by the gloomy
appellation given to the mound where the dead were
buried. The Foxes up to this time had inhabited the
shores of the river to which they had given their name,
but being completely overwhelmed and beaten in this
conflict, they retired to the neighborhood of the Mis-
sissippi, and sought an asylum among their allies, the
Saukies, or as they are now called, the Sauks, with
whom they became gradually incorporated, until the
combined tribes came to be known, as at present, by
the name of " Sauks and Foxes."
Among the French inhabitants of the upper country,
each tribe of Indians has a particular appellation, de-
scriptive of some peculiarity of either their habits or
their personal appearance. Thus the Chippewas from
their agility are denominated " Sauteurs" or Jumpers ;
* In the year 1714.
74)
BUTTE DBS MORTS. LAKE PUCKAWAY. 75
the Otlawas, the " Courtes-oreilles" or Short-ears. The
Meenomonees, from the wild rice so abundant in their
country, are called the " Folles Avoines" the Winne-
bagoes from their custom of wearing the fur of a pole-
cat on their legs when equipped for war, are termed
" les Puans" the Pottowattamies, from their uncleanly
habits, "les Poux" the Foxes, are "les Eenards,"
&c., &c.
Hence you will never hear a French or half-breed
resident of the country mention an Indian in any other
style. " Such a person is a ' Court-oreille.' " "Is that
woman a ' Winnebago ?'" " No, she is a ' Folle Avoine.' "
In this manner a stranger is somewhat puzzled at first
to classify the acquaintances he forms.
All the native friends with whom we were, here sur-
rounded were " les Puans," or to use their own eupho-
nious application, the " Ho-tshung-rahs"
Having with great regret said adieu to our friend
Judge Doty, whose society had contributed so much
to the pleasure of our trip, and whose example more-
over, had given us a valuable lesson to take things as
we find them ; we bade good-bye at an early hour after
breakfast to our kind hosts, and set forward on our
journey.
From Butte des Morts to the Portage, the distance
by land is about seventy miles ; by water, it is not less
than a hundred and thirty, so serpentine is the course
of the river through the low swampy prairies which
stretch over a great portion of this part of the country.
76 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
About six miles above the Butte, a tolerably broad
stream called Wolf River joins the Fox, and as it is
much the more direct and promising of the two, stran-
gers have sometimes mistaken it for the main stream,
and journeyed up it a considerable distance before
discovering to their great chagrin that they must re-
trace their steps.
Beyond this place, the river begins to play its pranks
with the compass. As I was always looking out for
pretty scenery to sketch, I was at one spot much at-
tracted by a picturesque group on a bank quite close
to the stream. There were broad overhanging trees,
and two or three wigwams nestled under their shade.
Bright-looking little children, quite unencumbered with
clothing, were sporting about, and their two mothers
were sitting on the ground, engaged in the manufac-
ture of a mat for their lodge. It was a pretty scene,
and I commenced a sketch. As usual, the whole party
on the bank set up a shout when they recognized Shaw-
nee-aw-kee ' ' Ee-awn-chee- wee-rah, Hee-nee-kar-ray-
kay-noo."* It was an occasion on which they became
demonstrative. After a little time we proceeded, and I
went on to complete my drawing. The sun kept
coming more and more into the wrong place. He had
been just behind me, presently he was on my left hand,
now he was straight a-head. I moved from time to
* Father ! How do you do ?
BUTTE DES MOBTS. LAKE PUCKAWAY. 77
time ; at length the sun was decidedly on my right hand.
What could be the matter ? I looked up. " Oh, here
is a pretty scene, I must have this too ! But how sur-
prisingly like the one I have just finished, only in a
different direction." Again we were greeted with shouts
and laughter; it was the same spot which we had
passed not an hour before, and having taken a circuit
of nearly four miles, we had returned to find that we
had made an actual progress of only the width of the
bank on which the trees and wigwams stood. Decidedly
not very encouraging to an impatient traveller.
We reached Lake Puck-a-way late in the evening
of our second day from Butte des Morts. Here lived
a white man named Gleason, the x same of whom, owing
to his vast powers of exaggeration, poor Hooe was
fond of uttering his little pun, " All is not gold that
Gleasons." We did not seek shelter at his house, for
late as the season was, we found the shore so infested
with musquitoes that we were glad to choose a spot as
far as possible from the bank, and make ourselves
comfortable in our boat.
This lake has its name from the long flags or rushes
which are found in its waters in great abundance, and
of which the squaws manufacture the coarse matting
used in covering their wigwams. Their mode of fab-
ricating this is very primitive and simple. Seated on
the ground, with the rushes laid side by side, and
fastened at each extremity, they pass their shuttle, a
78 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
long flat needle made of bone, to which is attached a
piece of cordage, formed of the bark of a tree, through
each rush, thus confining it very closely, and making
a fine substantial mat. These mats are seldom more
than five or six feet in length, as a greater size would
be inconvenient in adjusting and preparing their lodges.
It is a species of labor usually assigned to the elder
women of the family. When they 'become broken
down and worn out with exposure and hardship, so
that they cannot cut down trees, hoe corn, or carry
heavy burdens, they are set to weaving mats, taking
care of the children, and disciplining the dogs, with
which every Indian lodge abounds.
Lac de Boeuf, or Buffalo Lake, into which our
course next brought us, is a lovely sheet of water. In
some places, its banks are exceedingly picturesque, with
beautiful headlands jutting out into the clear depths,
where they and the magnificent groups of trees which
crown them lie reflected as in a mirror. Now and
then we would catch a glimpse of deer darting across
the glades, which at intervals opened through the
Woodlands, or a pair of sand-hill cranes would rise,
slowly flapping their wings, and seek a place of more
undisturbed repose. The flocks of teal now skimming
the surface of the water, now rising higher towards the
shelter of the forests, tempted our sportsman sorely ;
but as there was little prospect of finding his game
when it was brought down, he did not give way to
BUTTE DES MORTS. LAKE PUCKA WAY. 79
the wanton pleasure of shooting merely to destroy
life.
In quitting this charming lake, and again entering
the narrow, tortuous course of the river, we bade adieu
to everything like scenery, until we should reach our
journey's end.
We had now seventy miles to pass through a
country perfectly monotonous and uninteresting, the
distastefulness of which was aggravated by the know-
ledge that we could, had we been provided with horses
or a carriage of any kind, have crossed over to the
Portage from Gleason's, through a pleasant country, in
little more than three hours. Even our great resource,
the cheering, animating songs of our voyageurs were
out of the question ; for the river, though deep, is so
narrow that, in many places, there is no room for the
regular play of the oars ; and the voices of Frenchmen
can never "keep tune" unless their oars can "keep
time." Lapierre, one of our men, did his best with a
paddle, or, as he called it, the " little row" but it was
to no purpose it would not go. Besides this, the wild
rice abounds to that extent in many places, that it
almost completely obstructs the progress of even a
moderate-sized boat, so that a passage through its tan-
gled masses is with difficulty forced by the oars.
Tedious and monotonous as was the whole course of
the two following days, the climax of impatience and
discouragement was only reached when we arrived in
80 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
sight of the white walls of Fort Winnebago, looking
down from a rising ground upon the vast expanse of
low land through which the river winds.
The Indians have a tradition that a vast serpent
once lived in the waters of the Mississippi, and that
taking a freak to visit the Great Lakes, he left his trail
through the prairies, which, collecting the waters from
the meadows and the rains of heaven as they fell, at
length became the Fox Eiver.
The little lakes along its course were probably the
spots where he flourished about in his uneasy slumbers
at night. He must have played all the antics of a
kitten in the neighborhood of the Portage. When
the Fort was first pointed out to me, I exclaimed
with delight, " Oh, we shall be there in half ,an
hour!"
"Not quite so soon," said my husband, smiling.
" Wait and see." We sat and watched. We seemed
approaching the very spot where we were to disem-
bark. We could distinguish the officers and a lady on
the bank waiting to receive us. Now we are turning
our backs on them, and shooting out into the prairie
again. Anon we approach another bank, on which
is a range of comfortable-looking log-houses. "That
s the Agency," the largest house belongs to Paquette,
the interpreter, and the others are the dwellings of
our Frenchmen. The little building, just at the foot
of the hill, is the blacksmith's shop, kept there by the
:
BUTTE DES MORTS. LAKE PUCKAWAY. 81
Government, that the Indians may have their guns
and traps mended free of expense."
" But are we going to stop there ?"
"No; do you not see we are going back to the
fort?"
And, to be sure, our course was now turned, and
we were setting in our first direction. In this manner,
after tacking to the right and left, and putting back-
wards and forwards during the greater part of two
hours, we at length reached the little landing, on
which the assembled party stood ready to greet us.
4*
CHAPTER VIII.
FORT WINNEBAQO.
MAJOR and Mrs. Twiggs, and a few of the younger
officers (for nearly all of the older ones were absent),
with our brother Eobert, or, as he is called throughout
all the Indian tribes " Bob," gave us a cordial welcome
how cordial those alone can know who have come,
like us, to a remote, isolated home in the wilderness.
The Major insisted on our taking possession at once of
vacant quarters in the fort, instead of at " the Agency,"
as had been proposed.
" No we must be under the same roof with them.
Mrs. Twiggs had been without a companion of her
own sex for more than four months, and would certainly
not hear of a separation now. But we must be their
guests until the arrival of the boats containing our fur-
niture," which, under the care of our old acquaintance,
Hamilton Arndt, was making its way slowly up from
Green Bay.
A dinner had been prepared for us. This is one of
the advantages of the zig-zag approach by the Fox
Kiver travellers never take their friends by surprise
(82)
FOET WINNEBAGO. 83
and when the whole circle sat down to the hospitable
board, we were indeed a merry company.
After dinner Mrs. Twiggs showed me the quarters
assigned to us, on the opposite side of the spacious
hall. They consisted of two large rooms on each of the
three floors or stories of the building. On the ground
floor the front room was vacant. The one in the rear
was to be the sleeping apartment, as was evident from
a huge, unwieldy bedstead, of proportions amply suffi-
cient to have accommodated Og, the King of Bashan,
with Mrs. Og and the children into the bargain. "We
could not repress our laughter, but the bedstead was
nothing to another structure which occupied a second
corner of the apartment.
This edifice had been built under the immediate su-
perintendence of one of our young lieutenants, and it
was plain to be seen that upon it both he and the sol-
diers who fabricated it had exhausted all their archi-
tectural skill. The timbers of which it was composed
had been grooved and carved; the pillars that sup-
ported the front swelled in and out in a most fanciful
manner; the doors were not only panelled, but radi-
ated in a way to excite the admiration of all unso-
phisticated eyes. A similar piece of workmanship had
been erected in each set of quarters to supply the de-
ficiency of closets, an inconvenience which had never
occurred, until too late, to the bachelors who planned
them. The three apartments of which each structure
84 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
was composed, were unquestionably designed for
clothes-press, store-room, and china-closet ; such, at
least, were the uses to which Mrs. Twiggs had appro-
priated the one assigned to her. There was this slight
difficulty, that in the latter the shelves were too close
to admit of setting in even a gravy-boat, but they
made up in number what was wanting in space. "We
christened the whole affair, in honor of its projector,
a " Davis ;" thus placing the first laurel on the brow of
one who was afterwards to signalize himself at Buena
Vista, and in the Cabinet of his country.
The bold promontory on which Fort Winnebago was
built looked down upon the extended prairie and the
Fox Eiver on one side, and on the other stretched
away into the thickly wooded ridge that led off to
Belle Fontaine and Lake Puckaway.
In front lay an extent of meadow, across which was
the Portage road, of about two miles in length, leading
between the Fox and the Wisconsin rivers. Teams of
oxen and a driver were kept at the Agency by the Gov-
ernment, to transport the canoes of the Indians across
this place, which at many seasons was wet, miry, and
almost impassable.
The woods were now brilliant with the many tints
of autumn, and the scene around was further enlivened
by groups of Indians, in all directions, and their lodges,
which were scattered here and there, in the vicinity of
the Agency buildings. On the low grounds might be
FORT WINNEBAGO. 85
seen the white tents of the traders, already prepared to
furnish winter supplies to the Indians, in exchange for
the annuity money they were about to receive.
A great concourse had been for many days assem-
bling in anticipation of the payment, which was ex-
pected to take place as soon as Shaw-nee-aw-kee should
arrive with the silver.
Preparatory to this event, the great chief of the
nation, Four-Legs, whose village we had passed at the
entrance to Winnebago Lake, had thought proper to
take a little carouse, as is too apt to be the custom
when the savages come into the neighborhood of a
sutler's establishment. In the present instance, the fa-
cilities for a season of intoxication had been augmented
by the presence on the ground of some traders, too
regardless of the very stringent laws prohibiting the
sale of liquor to the Indians.
Poor Pour -Legs could not stand this full tide of
prosperity. Unchecked by the presence of his ' ' father, "
the agent, he carried his indulgence to such excess that
he fell a victim in the course of a few days. His funeral
had been celebrated with unusual pomp the day before
our arrival, and great was my disappointment at find-
ing myself too late to witness all the ceremonies.
His body, according to their custom, having been
wrapped in a blanket, and placed in a rude coffin, along
with his guns, tomahawk, pipes, and a quantity of
86 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
M*k
tobacco, had been carried to the most elevated point
of the hill opposite the fort, followed by an immense
procession of his people, whooping, beating their drums,
howling, and making altogether what is emphatically
termed a a pow-wow"
After the interment of the body a stake was planted
at its head, on which was painted in vermilion a series
of hieroglyphics, descriptive of the great deeds and
events of his life. The whole was then surrounded with
pickets of the trunks of the tamarack trees, and hither
the friends would come for many successive days to re-
new the expression of their grief, and to throw over the
grave tobacco and other "offerings to the Great Spirit.
It was a consolation to find that, although delayed,
we were yet in time to furnish a quantity of white
cotton for a flag to wave over the grave, and also to
pay a considerable bill at the sutler's, for the different
articles that had been found necessary for the funeral
parade it being a duty expected of their father to
bury the dead suitably.
The funeral observances in honor of the chief had
not yet ceased. Throughout the day, and all that
night, the sound of instruments, mingled with doleful
lamentations, and with the discordant whoops and yells
of those in a partial state of intoxication, filled the air,
and disturbed our repose. To these were added occa-
sionally the plaintive sounds of the Indian flute, upon
FORT WINNEBAGO. 87
which the young savage plays when he is in love.
Grief and whiskey had made their hearts tender, and
the woods resounded to their melancholy strains.
Early the following morning, before I left my room,
I was startled by the sounds of lamentation and woe
proceeding from the adjoining apartment. On enter
ing it, I found several squaws seated on the floor, with
downcast looks expressive of condolence and sym-
pathy, while in their midst sat a little ugly woman, in
tattered garments, with blackened face and dishevelled
hair, sobbing and wailing bitterly.
Not doubting they were the family of the deceased
chief, I was quite troubled at my inability to express,
otherwise than by gestures, my participation in their
sorrows.
Unacquainted as I was with their customs, I took it
for granted from their wretched appearance that poverty
and destitution formed one of the sources of their afflic-
tion. One of the party, at least, seemed in the very
depths of misery. " Can it be possible," said I to my-
self, " that this poor creature has only these scanty rags
to cover her ?"
Stepping back to my own room, I brought out a
pretty calico wrapper, which I presented to the little
dirty, blackened object. She took it, and commenced a
fresh series of sobbing and sighing. I made signs to
her to put it on, opening it and explaining to her how
it was to be worn, and recommending to her, by ges-
88 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
tures, to lose no time in making herself more comfort-
able.
At this, the other women burst into a laugh.
"Very mal-a-propos," thought I, "and somewhat
unfeeling." At that moment my husband entering,
explained to me that the chief mourner was Madame
Four-Legs, the widow ; that she had undoubtedly a com-
fortable wardrobe at home, but that it was part of the
etiquette of mourning to go for a season with neglected
persons and blackened faces. All this was told me in
the intervals of shaking hands, and offering and re-
ceiving condolences in the most uncouth, guttural lan-
guage I had ever heard. Their "father" at length
dismissed them, with a promise of some presents to
help dry up their tears. It must not be inferred that
the grief of the poor little widow was not sincere. On
the contrary, she was greatly attached to her husband,
and had had great influence not only with him but
with the nation at large. She was a Fox woman, and
spoke the Chippewa, which is the court language among
all the tribes, so that she was often called upon to act
as interpreter, and had, in fact, been in the habit of
accompanying her husband, and assisting him by her
counsels upon all occasions. She was a person of great
shrewdness and judgment, and as I afterwards expe-
rienced, of strong and tenacious affections.
After breakfast I received a visit from the principal
chiefs, who had put on their best of apparel and paint,
to receive their new " mother."
FORT WINNEBAGO. 89
There was Naw-kaw, or Kar-ray-mau-nee, "the
Walking Eain," now the principal chief of the nation, a
stalwart Indian, with a broad, pleasant countenance, the
great peculiarity of which was an immense under
lip, hanging nearly to his chin. There was the old
Day-kau-ray, the most noble, dignified, and venerable
of his own, or indeed of any other, tribe. His fine
Eoman countenance, rendered still more striking by
his bald head, with one solitary tuft of long silvery
hair neatly tied and falling back on his shoulders ; his
perfectly neat, appropriate dress, almost without orna-
ment and his courteous demeanor, never laid aside,
under any circumstances, all combined to give him the
highest place in the consideration of all who knew him.
It will hereafter be seen that his traits of character were
not less grand and striking, than were his personal ap-
pearance and deportment.
There was Black- Wolf, whose lowering, surly face
was well described by his name. The fierce expres-
sion of his countenance was greatly heightened by the
masses of heavy black hair hanging round it, quite
contrary to the usual fashion among the Winnebagoes.
They, for the most part, remove a portion of their hair,
the remainder of which is drawn to the back of the
head, clubbed and ornamented with beads, ribbons,
cock's feathers, or, if they are so entitled, an eagle's
feather for every scalp taken from an enemy.
There was Talk-English, a remarkably handsome,
90 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
powerful young Indian, who received his name in the
following manner. He was one of a party of sixteen
Winnebagoes, who had, by invitation accompanied their
Agent and Major Forsyth (or the Chippewa as he was
called), on a visit to the President at Washington, the
year previous.
On the journey, the question naturally addressed to
them by people not familiar with Western Indians was,
" Do you talk English?"
The young fellow being very observant, came to his
" father." " What do they mean by this ? Everybody
says to me, talk English /"
The Agent interpreted the words to him. "Ah,
very well."
The next place they arrived at was Lockport, in the
State of New York. Jumping off the canal-boat upon
the lock, he ran up to the first man he met, and thrust-
ing forward his face cried out, " Talk Eengeesh?"
" Yes," said the man ; " do you talk English?"
"Ya-as."
From that time forward, he always bore the name of
Talk-English^ and was registered on the pay-rolls by a
title of which he was not a little proud.
Hoo-wau-nee-kah, "the Little- Elk," was another of
the distinguished men of the tribe. He had likewise
been at Washington. Henry Glay, when he visited
them, after looking carefully at the countenances and
bearing of all the members of the deputation, had indi-
FORT WINNEBAGO. 91
cated him as the one possessing the greatest talent ; and
he was greatly pleased when informed that he was the
principal orator of the nation, and decidedly superior
in abilities to any other individual of the tribe.
Wild-Cat, our Indian Falstaff, in all save the coward-
ice and falsehood, I have already mentioned.
Then there was Kau-ray-kaw-saw-kaw, " the White
Crow," or Eock River Indian, who afterwards distin-
guished himself as the friend of the whites during the
Saukwar. He was called by the French "le Borgne,"
from having lost an eye ; and the black silk handker-
chief, which he wore drooping over the left side of his
face to disguise the blemish, taken with his native
costume, gave him a very singular appearance.
There was a nephew of the defunct chief Four-Legs,
to whom was with justice given, by both whites and
Indians, the appellation of "the Dandy." When out
of mourning his dress was of the most studied and
fanciful character. A shirt (when he condescended to
wear any) of the brightest colors, ornamented with
innumerable rows of silver brooches, set thickly to-
gether ; never less than two pairs of silver arm-bands ;
leggings and moccasins of the most elaborate embroi-
dery in ribbons and porcupine quills ; everything that
he could devise in the shape of ornament hanging to
his club of hair behind ; a feather fan in one hand, and
a mirror in the other, in which he contemplated him-
self every five minutes ; these, with the variety and
92 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
brilliancy of the colors upon his face, the suitable
choice and application of which occupied no small
portion of the hours allotted to his toilet ; such made
up the equipment of young Four-Legs.
This devotion to dress and appearance seemed not
altogether out of place in a youthful dandy, but we
had likewise an old one of the same stamp. Pawnee
Blanc, or the White Pawnee, if possible, surpassed his
younger competitor in attention to his personal at-
tractions.
Upon the present occasion he appeared in all his
finery, and went through the customary salutations with
an air of solemn dignity, then entered, as did the others,
into the parlor (for I had received them in the hall),
where they all seated themselves upon the floor. For-
tunately, the room was now bare of furniture, but
" alas !" thought I, "for my pretty carpet, if this is to
be the way they pay their respects to me !" I watched
the falling of the ashes from their long pipes, and
the other inconveniences of the use of tobacco, or
" kin-ni-kin-nick," with absolute dismay.
The visit of the chiefs was succeeded by one from
the interpreter and his wife, with all the Canadian and
half-breed women, whose husbands found employment
at the Agency, or at the American Fur Company's
establishment.
By this time my piano had been taken from its case
and set up in our quarters. To our great joy, we
FORT WINNEBAGO. 93
found it entirely uninjured. Thanks to the skill of
Nunns and Clark, not a note was out of tune,
The women, to whom it was an entire novelty, were
loud in their exclamations of wonder and delight.
' ' Eh-h-h I regardez done I Quettes inventions I Quelles
merveilks /"*
One, observing the play of my fingers reflected in
the nameboard, called in great exultation to her com-
panions. She had discovered, as she thought, the hid-
den machinery by which the sounds were produced, and
was not a little mortified when she was undeceived.
* Only look ! what inventions ! what wonders!
CHAPTER IX.
HOUSE KEEP IN O.
As the "boats might be expected in a few days, it
was thought best to begin at once what preparations
were in my power towards housekeeping. These were
simply the fitting and sewing of my carpets, in which I
was kindly assisted by Mrs. Twiggs; and the wife of
one of our Frenchmen having come over from the
Agency, and made everything tidy and comfortable,
the carpets were soon tacked down, and ready for the
reception of the rest of the furniture.
I had made many fruitless attempts, both in Detroit
and Green Bay, to procure a servant- woman to accom-
pany me to my new home. Sometimes one would pre-
sent herself, but, before we could come to a final agree-
ment, the thoughts of the distance, of the savages, the
hardships of the journey, or, perhaps, the objections of
friends, would interfere to break off the negotiation ; so
that I had at length been obliged to rest satisfied with
.the simple hope held out by my husband, that one or
the other of his French employe's, with his wife, would
be contented to take up their abode with us.
In this state of things, all difficulties seemed to be
(Mi
HOUSEKEEPING. 95
obviated by the proposal of Major Twiggs, that we
should take into our service a young colored girl, whom
he had brought from Buffalo, in the spring, to wait on
Mrs. T. until her own servants should arrive from the
South.
Louisa was accordingly sent for, an uncommonly
handsome young negress, with an intelligent but very
demure countenance, who called herself fifteen years
of age, but who, from the progress in vice and iniquity
I afterwards discovered her to have made, must have
been at least several years older. Be that as it may,
she now seemed to have no fault but carelessness and
inexperience, of both of which I had great hopes she
would improve, under careful training.
My first week's visit with Mrs. Twiggs had just
expired when word was given that the boats were in
sight the boats that contained our furniture and the
expected arrival of Louis Philippe to visit Queen Vic-
toria could scarcely have created a more universal
sensation, than did this announcement in our little
community. Although we knew that some hours
must yet elapse before they could reach the spot for
disembarkation, we were constantly on the watch, and
at length all the young officers, followed by as many
of the soldiers as' were 'off duty, accompanied Mr.
Kinzie down the bank to the landing, to witness, and
if necessary, to assist in helping everything safe to land.
Sad was the plight in which matters were found.
96 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
The water poured out of the corners of the boxes as
they were successively hoisted on shore. Too impa-
tient to wait until they could be carried up to the fort,
the gentlemen soon furnished themselves with hammers
and hatchets, and fell eagerly to work, opening the
boxes to explore the extent of the damage. Alas for
the mahogany ! not a piece from which the edges and
veneering were not starting. It had all the appearance
of having lain under the Grande Chute for days. Poor
Hamilton was loud in his protestations and excuses.
It was the fault of the men, of the weather, of the
way the things were packed. " Confound it ! he had
taken the best care of the things he possibly could
better than he had ever taken before it would get done I"
There was nothing but to be patient and make the
best of it. And when the pretty sideboard and work-
table had been thoroughly rubbed and set up, and all
the little knickknacks arranged on the mantel-piece
when the white curtains w^re hung at the windows,
and the chairs and dining-table each in its proper place
in relation to the piano, our parlor was pronounced
" magnificent," At least so seemed to think Hamilton,
who came to give one admiring look, and to hear the
music of the piano, which was a perfect novelty to
him. His description of it to the young officers, after
his return to the Bay, was expressive of his admiration
and wonder " There it stood on its four legs ! Any-
body might go up and touch it 1"
HOUSEKEEPING. 97
In due time the dinner and tea sets were carefully
bestowed in the " Davis," together with sundry jars of
sweetmeats that I had prepared in Detroit; the iron
and tin utensils were placed in a neat cupboard in the
kitchen, of which my piano-box supplied the frame;
the barrel of eggs and tubs of butter, brought all the
way from Ohio, were ranged in the store-room ; a suit-
able quantity of salt pork and flour, purchased from
the Commissary ; and there being no lack of game of
every description, the offering of our red children, we
were ready to commence housekeeping.
The first dinner in her own home is an era in the
life of a young housekeeper. I shall certainly never
forget mine. "While I was in the lower regions super-
intending my very inexpert little cook, my husband
made, his appearance to say that, as the payment (then
the all-absorbing topic of interest) would not com-
mence until afternoon, he had invited M. Eolette, Mr.
Hempstead, and four other gentlemen to dine with us.
"So unexpected so unprepared for?"
"Never mind; give them any thing you have. They
have been living for some days in tents, and anything
will taste well to them."
My dinner had been intended to consist chiefly of a
venison pasty, and fortunately the only dish among
my store was of very large proportions, so that there
was already smoking in the oven a pie of a size nearly
equal to the famous Norwich pudding ; thus, with some
5
98 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
trifling additions to the bill of fare, we made out very-
well, and the master of the house had the satisfaction
of hearing the impromptu dinner very much com-
mended by his six guests.
CHAPTER X.
INDIAN PAYMENT-MRS. WASHINGTON.
THEEE were two divisions of the Winnebago
Indians, one of which was paid by the Agent, at the
Portage, the other at Prairie du Chien, by Gen. Street.
The first, between four and five thousand in number,
received, according to treaty stipulations, fifteen thou-
sand dollars annually, besides a considerable amount
of presents, and a certain number of rations of bread
and pork, to be issued in times of emergency through-
out the year.
The principal villages of this division of the tribe were
at Lake Winnebago, Green and Fox Lakes, the Barri-
bault, Mud Lake, the Four Lakes, Kosh-ko-nong, and
Turtle Creek. Messengers were dispatched, at or
before the arrival of the annuity-money, to all the dif-
ferent villages, to notify the heads of families or
lodges to assemble at " the Portage."
When arrived, the masters of families, under their
different chiefs, give in their names, and the number
in their lodges, to be registered. As in paying a cer-
tain sum of money is apportioned to each individual,
it is, of course, an object to make the number registered
(09)
100 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
as great as possible. Each one brings his little bundle
of sticks, and presents it to the Agent to register.
Sometimes a dialogue like the following occurs :
" How many have you in your lodge?"
The Indian carefully, and with great ceremony,
counts his bundle of sticks " Fifteen."
" How many men ?"
" Two." The Agent lays aside two sticks.
" How many women ?"
" Three." Three more sticks are separated.
"How many children?"
" Eight." Eight sticks are added to the heap.
" What is the meaning of these two sticks that
remain?"
The culprit, whose arithmetic has not served him to
carry out his deception, disappears amid the shouts
and jeers of his companions, who are always well
pleased at the detection of any roguery in which they
have had no share.
The young officers generally assisted in counting out
.nd delivering the money at these payments, and it
was no unusual thing, as the last band came up, for
the chiefs to take a quantity of silver out of the box,
and request their " father" to pay his friends for their
trouble, seeming really disturbed at his refusal. In
this, as in almost every instance, we see the native
courtesy and politeness, which are never lost sight of
among them. If a party comes to their " father," to
INDIAN PAYMENT MRS. WASHINGTON. 101
beg for provisions, and food is offered them, however
hungry they may be, each waits patiently until one of
the company makes an equal distribution of the whole,
and then, taking his share, eats it quietly, with the
greatest moderation. I never saw this rule violated,
save in one instance.
Our friend, Pawnee Blanc, the Old Dandy, once
came with a party of Indians, requesting permission to
dance for us, in the open space before the door. It
was a warm, dusty afternoon, and as our friends grew
heated and fatigued with the violent and long-continued
exercise, a pitcher of raspberry negus was prepared and
sent out to them. Pawnee received the pitcher and
tumbler, and pouring the latter about half full, gave it
to the first of the circle, then filled the same for the
next, and so on, until it suddenly occurred to him to
look into the pitcher. What he saw there determined
his course of action, so, setting the tumbler upon the
ground, he raised the pitcher with both hands to his
lips and gave a hearty pull, after which he went on,
giving less and less, until he was called to have the
pitcher replenished. All present agreed it was the
only instance they had ever witnessed, of an Indian's
appearing afraid of getting less of a thing than his
share.
During the payment a good many kegs of whiskey
find their way into the lodges of the Indians, notwith-
standing the watchfulness of both officers and Agent.
102 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
Where there is a demand there will always be a sup-
ply, let the legal prohibitions be what they may. The
last day of the payment is, too often, one of general
carousing.
When the men begin their frolic, the women care-
fully gather all the guns, knives, tomahawks, and
weapons of every description, and secrete them, that
as little mischief as possible may be done in the absence
of all restraint and reason. I am sorry to record that
our little friend, Pawnee Blanc, was greatly addicted to
the pleasures of the bottle.
Among the presents for the chiefs, which Shaw-nee-
aw-kee had brought from the east, was a trunk of blue *
cloth coats, trimmed with broad gold lace, and a box
of round black hats, ornamented in a similar manner.
All who are familiar with Indians, of whatever tribe,
will have observed that their first step towards civil-
ization, whether in man or woman, is mounting a
man's hat, decorated with tinsel, ribbons, or feathers.
Pawnee was among the happy number remembered in
the distribution, so donning at once his new costume,
and tying a few additional bunches of gay-colored rib-
bons to a long spear, that was always his baton of cer-
emony, he came at once, followed by an admiring
train, chiefly of women, to pay me a visit of state.
The solemn gravity of his countenance, as he mo-
tioned away those who would approach too near, and
finger his newly-received finery the 'dignity with
INDIAN PAYMENT MRS. WASHINGTON. 103
which he strutted along, edging this way and that to
avoid any possible contact from homely, every-day
wardrobes, augured well for a continuance of propriety
and self-respect, and a due consideration of the good
opinion of all around. But, alas, for Pawnee ! Late
in the day we saw him assisted towards his lodge by
two stout young Indians, who had pulled him out of
a ditch, his fine coat covered with mud, his hat battered
and bruised, his spear shorn of its gay streamers, and
poor Pawnee, himself, weeping and uttering all the
doleful lamentations of a tipsy Indian,
Among the women with whom I early made ac-
quaintance was the wife of Wau-kaun-zee-kah, the
Yellow Thunder. She had accompanied her husband,
who was one of the deputation to visit the President,
and from that tune forth she had been known as " the
Washington woman." She had a pliant, old-ac-
quaintance sort of air in greeting me, as much as to
say, " You and I have seen something of the world."
No expression of surprise or admiration escaped her
lips, as her companions, with child-like, laughing sim-
plicity, exclaimed and clapped their hands at the dif-
ferent wonderful objects I showed them. Her deport-
ment said plainly, "Yes, yes, my children, I have
seen all these things before." It was not until I put to
her ear some tropical shells, of which I had a little
104 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
cabinet, and she heard it roaring in her ear, that she
laid aside her apathy of manner. She poked her finger
into the opening to get at the animal within, shook it
violently, then put it to her ear again, and finally
burst into a hearty laugh,' and laid it down, acknow-
ledging, by her looks, that this was beyond her com-
prehension.
I had one shell of peculiar beauty my favorite in
the whole collection a small conch, covered with rich,
dark veins. Each of the visitors successively took up
this shell, and by words and gestures expressed her
admiration, evidently showing that she had an eye for
beauty this was on the occasion of the parting visit
of my red daughters.
Shortly after the payment had been completed, and
the Indians had left, I discovered that my valued shell
was missing from the collection. Could it be that one
of the squaws had stolen it ? It was possible they
would occasionally, though rarely, do such things
under the influence of strong temptation. I tried to
recollect which, among the party, looked most likely
to have been the culprit. It could not have been the
Washington woman she was partly civilized, and
knew better.
A few weeks afterwards Mrs. Yellow Thunder again
made her appearance, and carefully unfolding a gay-
colored chintz shawl, which she carried rolled up in
her hand, she produced the shell, and laid it on the
INDIAN PAYMENT MRS. WASHINGTON. 105
table before me. I did not know whether to show, by
my countenance, displeasure at the trick she had
played me, or joy at receiving my treasure back again,
but at length decided that it was the best policy to
manifest no emotion whatever.
She prolonged her visit until my husband's return,
and he then questioned her about the matter.
" She had taken the shell to her village, to show to
some of her people, who did not come to the payment."
" Why had she not asked her mother's leave before
carrying it away ?"
" Because she saw that her mother liked the shell,
and she was afraid she would say No."
This was not the first instance in which Madame
Washington had displayed the shrewdness which was
a predominant trait in her character. During the visit
of the Indians to the eastern cities, they were taken to
various exhibitions, museums, menageries, the theatre,
&c. It did not escape their observation that some
silver was always paid before entrance, and they
inquired the reason. It was explained to them. The
woman brightened up, as if struck with an idea.
" How much do you pay for each one?"
Her father told her.
" How do you say that in English ?"
" Two shillings."
" Two shinnin humph " (good).
-The next day, when as usual, visitors began to flock
5*
106 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
to the rooms where the Indians were sojourning, the
woman and a young Indian, her confederate, took their
station by the door, which they kept closed. When any
one knocked, the door was cautiously opened, and the
woman extending her hand, exclaimed "Two shinnin"
This was readily paid in each instance, and the game
went on, until she had accumulated a considerable sum.
But this did not satisfy her. At the first attempt of a
visitor to leave the room, the door was held close, as
before, the hand was extended, and "Two shinnin"
again met his ear. He tried to explain that, having
paid for his entrance, he must now go out free. "With
an inexorable shake of the head, " Two shinnin" was
all the English she could understand.
The Agent who had entered a short time before, and
who, overhearing the dialogue, sat laughing behind his
newspaper, waiting to see how it would all end, now
came forward and interfered, and the guests were per-
mitted to go forth without a further contribution.
The good woman was moreover admonished that it
was far from the custom of white people to tax their
friends and visitors in this manner, and that the prac-
tice must be laid aside in future.
Another instance of the disposition of the Indians
to avail themselves of all the goods that fortune throws
in their way, was the following :
Upon the same trip, while passing through Ohio,
one of the party inquired of the Agent,
INDIAN PAYMENT MRS. WASHINGTON. 107
" Do you pay for all those provisions that are set
before us at the hotels ?"
"Yes, why do you ask?"
"Nothing: I thought you perhaps paid for just
what we ate of them."
At the next stopping place a fine breakfast was set
upon the table, of which, as usual, they partook plen-
tifully. Just as they had finished, the horn sounded
for all to take their places in the stage-coaches. Each
sprang to his feet. One seized the plates of biscuits and
poured them into the corner of his blanket ; another
the remains of a pair of chickens ; a third emptied
the sugar-bowls ; each laid hold of what was nearest
him, and in a trice nothing was left upon the table but
the empty plates and dishes. The landlord and waiters,
meanwhile, stood laughing and enjoying the trick as
much as any of the spectators.
Upon another occasion, their "father" had endeav-
ored to impress upon them the unseemliness of throw-
ing their refuse pieces, bones, and fragments of food
about on the table-cloth, pointing out to them the or-
derly manner of the whites at table, and the propriety
of keeping everything neat and nice around them.
At their next meal, they were served first with a
chicken-pie, of which they ate very heartily, and the
accumulation of bones on their plates was very abun-
dant. Presently another and more favorite dish ap-
peared. A fine large roasted turkey. A gentleman
108 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
sat near, and was evidently preparing to carve it. No
time was to be lost. What was to be done with the
bones ? They looked around in some perplexity. A
large apple-pie was standing near. The most eager
drew it towards him, and quick as thought all the bones
were deposited upon it, while with a triumphant laugh
at the happy idea, he coolly transferred the bird to his
own dish, and proceeded to distribute it among his
companions. The amazed stranger soon joined in the
laugh at the unceremonious manner in which his share
of the dinner had vanished.
CHAPTER XI.
LOUISA-DAY-KAU-RAY ON EDUCATION.
THE payment was now over, and the Indians had
dispersed and gone to their wintering grounds. The
traders too, had departed, laden with a good share of
the silver, in exchange for whioh each family had pro-
vided itself, as far as possible, with clothing, guns,
traps, ammunition, and the other necessaries for their
winter use. The Indians are good at a bargain. They
are not easily overreached. On the contrary, they un-
derstand at once when a charge is exorbitant; and a
trader who tries his shrewdness upon them is sure to
receive an expressive sobriquet, which ever after clings
to him.
For instance, M. Rolette was called by them
" Ah-kay-zaup-ee-tah/'j^ve more because, as they said,
let them offer what number of skins they might, in
bartering for an article, his terms were invariably " five
more."
Upon one occasion a lady remarked to him, " Oh,
M. Eolette, I would not be engaged in the Indian
trade ; it seems to me a system of cheating the poor
Indians."
(109)
110 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
" Let me tell you, madame," replied he with great
naivete, " it is not so easy a thing to cheat the Indians
as you imagine. I have tried it these twenty years, and
have never succeeded I"
We were now settled down to a quiet, domestic life.
The military system under which everything was con-
ducted the bugle-call, followed by the music of a
very good band, at "reVeille;" the light, animated
strains for "sick-call," and soon after for "breakfast;"
the longer ceremony of guard-mounting; the "Old
English Koast-beefj" to announce the dinner hour; the
sweet, plaintive strains of "Lochaber no more,"
followed most incongruously by " the Little Cock-
Sparrow," at "retreat;" and finally, the long, rolling
tattoo, late in the evening, made pleasant divisions of
our time, which, by the aid of books, music, and draw-
ing, in addition to household occupations, seemed to
fly more swiftly than ever before. It was on Sunday
that I most missed my eastern home. I had planned
beforehand what we should do on the first recurrence
of this sacred day, under our own roof. " We shall
have, at least," said I to myself, " the Sabbath's quiet
and repose; and I can, among other things, benefit
poor Louisa by giving her some additional lessons of
a serious character/'
So, while she was removing the breakfast things, I
said to her,
LOUISA DAY-KAU-BAY ON EDUCATION. Ill
" Now, Louisa, get your work all finished, and every-
thing put neatly aside, and then come here to me
again."
" Yes, ma'am."
We sat down to our books, and read and waited ;
we waited and read another hour no Louisa.
There was music and the sound of voices on
the parade in front of bur windows, but that did
not disturb us; it was what we were daily accus-
tomed to.
I must go at length, and see what could be keeping
my damsel so. I descended to the kitchen. The
breakfast things stood upon the table the kettles and
spider upon the hearth the fire was out the kitchen
empty.
Passing back into the hall, which extended the whole
length of the house, and opened in front upon the
parade, I perceived a group collected in the area, qf all
shades and colors, and in the midst, one round, woolly
head which I could not mistake, bobbing up and down,
now on this side, now on that, while peals of laughter
were issuing from the whole group.
" Louisa," I called, " come here ; what are you doing
there?"
"Looking at inspection."
"But why are not your breakfast things washed, and
yoiir kitchen swept ? Did I not tell you I wished you
to come up and learn your lessons ?"
112 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
" Yes, ma'am ; but I had to see inspection first.
Everybody looks at 'inspection' on Sunday."
I found it was in vain to expect to do more for
Louisa than give her an afternoon's lesson, and with
that I was obliged to content myself.
I felt that it would be very pleasant, and perhaps
profitable, for all the inmates of the garrison to assem-
ble on this day ; one of our number might be found
who would read a portion of the church-service, and a
sermon from one of our different selections.
I approached the subject cautiously, with an inquiry
to this effect :
" Are there none among the officers who are reli-
giously disposed?"
" Oh, yes," replied the one whom I addressed, " there
is S ; when he is half-tipsy, he takes his Bible and
' Newton's "Works,' and goes to bed and cries over
them ; he thinks in this way he is excessively pious."
S was among the officers who had never called
upon us ; it was fair to infer that if his religious prin-
ciples did not correct his own evil habits, they would
not aid much in improving others ; therefore, it seemed
useless to call in his co-operation in any scheme for a
better observance of the Lord's Day.
We had to content ourselves with writing to our
friends at the east to interest themselves in getting a
missionary sent to us, who should officiate as chaplain
in the garrison, a plan that seemed to find favor with
V
LOUISA DAY-KAU-RAY ON EDUCATION. 113
the officers. The hope of any united religious services
was, for the present, laid aside.
The post-surgeon having obtained a furlough, his
place was supplied by Dr. Newhall, of Galena, and
thus, by the addition of his gentle, quiet wife, our
circle of ladies was now enlarged to three. Here we
were, in a wilderness, but yet how contented and
happy !
A gloom was soon to replace this envied tranquillity
in our home. A Frenchman, named Letendre, one
day suddenly presented himself. He had come from
Chicago, with the distressing intelligence of the ex-
treme, indeed hopeless illness of our dear relative, Dr.
Wolcott. My husband immediately commenced his
preparations for instant departure. I begged to be
permitted to accompany him, but the rapidity with
which he proposed to journey obliged him to refuse
my entreaties. In a few hours his provisions, horses,
and all other things necessary for the journey were in
readiness, and he set off with Petaille Grrignon, his
usual attendant on such expeditions, leaving Letendre
to follow as soon as recruited from his fatigue.
Sad and dreary were the hours- of his absence, not-
withstanding the kind efforts of our friends to cheer
me. In a few days I received the news of the fatal
termination of Dr. "W.'s illness, brought by another
messenger. That noble heart, so full of warm and
kindly affections had ceased to beat, and sad and deso-
114 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
late, indeed, were those who had so loved and honored
him.
As soon as he could possibly leave his family, my
husband returned, and it was fortunate that he had
delayed no longer, for the winter now began to set in,
and with severity.
Our quarters were spacious, but having been con-
structed of the green trees of the forest, cut down and
sawed into boards by the hands of the soldiers, they
were considerably given to shrinking and warping,
thus leaving many a yawning crevice. Stuffing the
cracks with cotton batting, and pasting strips of paper
over them, formed the employment of many a leisure
hour.
Then the chimneys, spite of all the currents of air,
which might have.been expected to create a draught,
had a sad habit of smoking. To remedy this, a couple
of gun-barrels had been sawed off and inserted in the
hearth, one on each side of the fire place, in the hope
that the air from the room below might help to carry
the smoke into its proper place, the chimney.
The next morning after this had been done, Louisa
was washing the hearth.
"Pray, ma'am," said she, "what are these things
put in here for ?"
I explained their use.
" Oh, I am so glad it is only that. Uncle Ephraim
(Major Twiggs' servant) said they were to be filled
LOUISA DAY-KAU-EAY ON EDUCATION. 115
with powder and fired off Christmas Day, and he was
terribly afraid they would blow the house up, and we
in it."
Ephraim, who was a most faithful and valuable ser-
vant, often amused himself with playing upon the cre-
dulity of the younger portions of the colored fraternity.
" Is it true," asked Louisa, one day, " that Pillon and
Plante were once prairie-wolves ?"
" Prairie-wolves ! what an idea ! Why do you ask
such a foolish question ?"
"Because uncle Ephraim says they, and all the
Frenchmen about here, were once prairie-wolves, and
that, living so near the white people, they grow, after
a time, to be like them, and learn to talk and dress
like them. And then, when they get to be old, they
turn back into prairie-wolves again, and that all the
wolves that the officers bait with their dogs used to be
Frenchmen, once."
After a time, however, I ceased to straighten out
these stories of uncle Ephraim, for I was gradual^
arriving at the conviction that my little colored damsel
was by no means so simple and unsophisticated as she
would have me believe, and that I was, after all, the
one who was imposed upon.
The snow this winter was prodigious, and the cold
intense. The water would freeze in our parlors at a
very short distance from the fire, for, although the
"fatigue parties " kept the hall filled with wood, almost
116 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
up to the ceiling, that did not counterbalance the in-
convenience of having the wide doors thrown open to
the outer air for a great portion of the day, to allow of
their bringing it in. We Northerners should have
had wood-houses specially for the purpose, and not
only have kept our great hall-doors closed, but have
likewise protected them with a "hurricane house."
But the Florida frontier was not a station for our
southern bachelors to have acquired the knowledge
that would have been available when the thermometer
was twenty-five degrees below zero at a point that
brandy congealed in the sideboard.
The arrival of Christmas and New Year's brought
us our Indian friends again. They had learned some-
thing of the observation of these holidays from their
French neighbors, and I had been forewarned that I
should see the squaws kissing every white man they
met. Although not crediting this to its full extent, I
could readily believe that they would each expert a
present, as a "compliment of the season," so I duly
prepared myself with a supply of beads, ribbons, combs,
and other trinkets. Knowing them to be fond of
dainties, I had also a quantity of crullers and dough-
nuts made ready the day before, as a treat to them.
To my great surprise and annoyance, only a mode-
rate share of the cakes, the frying of which had been
entrusted to Louisa, were brought up to be placed in
the " Davis."
LOUISA DAU-KAU-RAY ON EDUCATION. 117
" Where are the rest of the cakes, Louisa?"
" That great fellow, Hancock, came in with the
fatigue party to fill the water-barrels, and while I had
just stepped into the store-room to get some more
flour, he carried off all I had got cooked."
And Louisa made a face and whined, as if she had not
herself treated every soldier who had set his foot in
the premises.
At an early hour the next morning I had quite a
levee of the Ho-tshung-rah matrons. They seated
themselves in a circle on the floor, and I was sorry to
observe that the application of a little soap and water
to their blankets had formed no part of their holiday
preparations. There being no one to interpret, I
thought I would begin the conversation in away intel-
ligible to themselves, so I brought out of the sideboard
a china dish, filled with the nice brown crullers, over
which I had grated, according to custom, a goodly
quantity of white sugar. I handed it to the first of
the circle. She took the dish from my hand, and de-
liberately pouring all the cakes into the corner of her
blanket, returned it to me empty. " She must be a
most voracious person," thought I, " but I will manage
better the next time." I refilled the dish, and ap-
proached the next one, taking care to keep a fast hold
of it as I offered the contents, of which I supposed she
would modestly take one. Not so, however. She
scooped out the whole with her two hands, and, like
118 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
the former, bestowed them in her blanket. My sense
of politeness revolted at handing them out one by one,
as we do to children, so I sat down to deliberate what
was to be done, for evidently the supply would not
long answer such an ample demand, and there would
be more visitors anon.
While I was thus perplexed those who had received
the cakes commenced a distribution, and the whole
number was equitably divided among the company.
But I observed they did not eat them. They passed
their fingers over the grated sugar, looked in each
other's faces, and muttered in low tones there was
evidently something they did not understand. Pre-
sently one more adventurous than the rest wet her
fingers, and taking up a few grains of the sugar put it
cautiously to her mouth.
" Tah-nee-zhoo-rah. !" (Sugar !) was her delighted
exclamation, and they all broke out into a hearty
laugh ; it is needless to say that the cakes disappeared
with all the celerity they deemed compatible with
good-breeding. Never having seen any sugar but the
brown or yellow maple, they had supposed the white
substance to be salt, and for that reason had hesitated
to taste it.
Their visit was prolonged until Shaw-nee-aw-kee
made his appearance, and then, having been made
happy by their various gifts, they all took their depar-
ture.
LOUISA DAY-KAU-RAY ON EDUCATION. 119
About this time, Mr. Kinzie received a letter from
Col. Richard M. Johnson, of Kentucky. This gentle-
man had interested himself greatly in a school estab-
lished in that State, for the education of Indian youths
and children. The purport of his letter was to re-
quest the Agent to use every endeavor to induce the
Winnebagoes not only to send their children to this
institution for their education, but also (what was still
more important) to set apart a portion of their annuity
money, to assist in sustaining it.
There happened to be, at this holiday season, a num-
ber of the chiefs in the neighborhood of the Portage,
and a messenger was sent to convene them all at the
house of Paquette, the interpreter, that their "father"
might hold a talk with them.
On the day appointed they all assembled. The sub-
ject matter of the letter was laid before them, and all
the advantages of civilization and education duly set
forththe benefits which would arise to their nation,
if even a small portion of the younger members could
be well-taught by the whites, and then return to their
tribe, to instruct them in the learning, the arts, manu-
factures, and habits of civilized life. To each para-
graph, as it was uttered to them, they gave a unanimous
"Humph!" (Good.)
When their "father's" address was ended, Day-
Tcau-ray, the oldest and most venerable among the
chiefs, rose and- spoke as follows:
120 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
"Father, The Great Spirit made tlie white man
and the Indian. He did not make them alike. He
gave the white man a heart to love peace, and the arts
of a quiet life. He taught him to live in towns, to
build houses, to make books, to learn all things that
would make him happy and prosperous in the way of
life appointed him. To the red man the Great Spirit
gave a different character. He gave him a love of the
woods, of a free life, of hunting and fishing, of making
war with his enemies and taking scalps. The white
man does not live like the Indian it is not his nature.
Neither does the Indian love to live like the white
man the Great Spirit did not make him so.
" Father, We do not wish to do anything contrary
to the will of the Great Spirit. If he had made us
with white skins, and characters like the white men,
then we would send our children to this school to be
taught like the white children.
" Father, We think that if the Great Spirit had
wished us to be like the whites, he would have made
us so. As he has not seen fit to do so, we believe he
would be displeased with us, to try and make our-
selves different from what he thought good.
"Father, I have nothing more to say. This is
what we think. If we change our minds, we will let
you know."
It will be seen from these remarks of Day-kau-ray,
that the Indians entertain a conviction that the Great
LOUISA DAY-KAU-RAY ON EDUCATION. 121
Spirit himself teaches the white man the arts and
sciences, and since he has given the red man no instruc-
tion in these branches, it would be unbecoming in him
to attempt to acquire them in an irregular manner.
With little incidents of this kind, and with an occa-
sional dinner or tea-party to the young officers, some-
times given at the Major's quarters, sometimes at bur
own, our course of life passed pleasantly on. At times
I would amuse myself by making " something very
nice" in the form of a fruit cake or pie, to send to the
quarters of the young officers as a present, it being
supposed that possibly, without a lady to preside over
their mess, it might be sometimes deficient in these
delicacies. Mrs. Twiggs was so fortunate as to have
well-trained servants to do for her that which, thanks
to my little dark handmaid, always fell to my share.
One day I had made some mince pies, which the
major and my husband greatly approved, and I thought
I would send one to each of the young officers.
It happened that my husband, that day, in returning
from superintending his men on the other side of the
river, had occasion to call on some errand at Captain
Harney's quarters.
Dinner had just been placed upon the table, and the
Captain insisted on his visitor's sitting down and par-
taking with him, and another gentleman who was
present. The pork and beans were pronounced excel-
lent, and being removed there followed a mince pie.
6
122 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
The Captain cut it, and helped his guests, then tak-
ing a piece himself, he commenced tasting it. Pushing
back his plate with an exclamation and a sudden jerk,
he called to his servant, a little thick-set mulatto who
waited " David, you yellow rascal, how dare you put
such a pie on my table ?" And turning to the com-
pany apologetically, he said
" If there is anything on earth David does under-
stand, it is how to make a mince pie, and here he has
filled this with brandy, so we cannot eat a morsel of
it!"
" Please, sir," said David, modestly, "I did not make
the pie it is one Mrs. Kinzie sent as a present."
The poor Captain was now in a predicament. He
raved at himself, at the same time conjuring my hus-
band most earnestly not to tell me what a mistake he
had made an injunction that was lost sight of as soon
as he returned to his home. As for the unlucky Cap-
tain, he did not venture to call on me again until he
felt sure I had forgotten the circumstance.
CHAPTER XII,
PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY.
EARLY in January the snow fell in great abundance.
We had an unusual quantity at the Portage, but in
"the diggings," as the lead-mining country was called,
it was of an unheard-of depth five or six feet upon a
level.
An express had been dispatched to Chicago by the
officers to take our letters, and bring back the mail from
that place. A tough, hardy soldier, named Sulky,
acted as messenger, and he had hitherto made light of
his burden or the length of the way, notwithstanding
that his task was performed on foot with his pack upon
his shoulders. But now Sulky had been absent some
weeks, and we had given him up entirely, persuaded
that he must have perished with cold and starvation.
At length he appeared, nearly blind from travelling
in the snow. He had lain by three weeks in an Indian
, lodge, the snow being too deep to permit him to jour
ney. The account he gave put an end to the hopes I
had begun to entertain of being able to visit our friends
at Chicago in the course of this winter.
We had, before the last heavy fall of snow, been
(128)
124 THE EARLY DAY IN iHifi NORTH-WEST.
forming plans to that effect. Captain Harney had
kindly commenced preparing some trains, or boxes
placed on sledges, which it was thought would, when
lined with buffalo skins, furnish a very comfortable
kind of vehicle for the journey ; and I was still inclined
to think a good, deep bed of snow over the whole coun-
try no great obstacle to a sleigh-ride. The whole mat-
ter was, however, cut short by the commanding officer,
who from the first had violently opposed the scheme,
declaring that he would order the sentinels to fire on
us if we attempted to leave the fort. So, finding the
majority against us, we were obliged to yield.
The arrival of sweet, lovely, little Lizzie Twiggs,
before January was quite past, was an event that shed
light and joy in at least two dwellings. It seemed as if
she belonged to all of us, and as she increased in size
and beauty, it was hard to say who, among us all, was
most proud of her. If we had ever felt any languid
hours before, we could have none now she was the
pet, the darling, the joint-property of both households.
Whatever regret I might have had previous to this
event, at the idea of leaving my friend for the three
weeks to which we proposed to limit our visit to Chi-
cago, I felt now that she would scarcely miss me, and
that we might hold ourselves in readiness to take ad-
vantage of the first improvement in the weather, to put
this favorite project in execution.
PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY. 125
During the latter part of February the cold became
less severe. The snows melted away, and by the be-
ginning of March the weather was so "warm and genial,
that we were quite confident of being able to make
the journey on horseback without any serious diffi-
culty.
Our plans once settled upon, the first thing to be
provided was warm and comfortable apparel. A riding-
habit of stout broadcloth was pronounced indispensa-
ble to my equipment. But of such an article I was
destitute. Nothing among my wedding travelling gear
seemed in any way to offer a substitute. What was to
be done ? The requisite material was to be found in
abundance at the sutler's store (the shantee as it was
technically termed), but how to get it manufactured
into a suitable garment was the question.
The regimental tailor was summoned. He was cook
to one of the companies, and there were at first some
doubts whether he could be permitted to forsake the
spit for the needle, during the time I should require
his services. All his tailoring-work had, heretofore,
been done at odd times on a bench in the company
kitchen, and thither he now proposed to carry the
riding-habit. I suggested that, in order to superintend
the work, I should thus be driven to take up my abode
for the time being in the barracks, which would be a
decided inconvenience.
To remedy the difficulty, he was finally so happy as
126 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
to find a soldier in "Company D," who consented to
officiate in his place as cook until his term of service
to me should expire.
Behold, then, a little, solemn-looking man in his stock-
ing feet, seated cross-legged on an Indian mat by my
parlor window. He had made all his arrangements him-
self, and I deemed it wisest not to interfere with him.
The cutting-out was the most difficult part, and as he
had never made a lady's riding-habit, that task fell to
my share. I was as great a novice as himself, and I
must admit that this, my first effort, was open to criti-
cism. But the little tailor was of a different opinion.
He was in an ecstasy with our joint performance.
"Upon my word, madam," he would exclaim, sur-
reying it with admiring eyes, " we shall have a very
respectable garment!" I do not know how many times
he repeated this during the three days that the work
was in progress.
I believe he had not perfect confidence in, the culi-
nary powers of his comrade of "Company D," for
regularly a half-hour before beat of drum, his work
was folded and laid aside, his snips gathered up, and
all things being restored to order, he would slip out,
resume his shoes, which, Turk-like, he had left outside
the door, and speed over to the barrack-kitchen to see
how matters were going on.
In the meantime, great preparations were making
below, under the supervision of ^our tidy, active, little
PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY. 127
French servant, Mrs. Pillon, the wife of one of the
engages, by whom the irregular and unmanageable
Louisa had been replaced.
Biscuits were baked, a ham, some tongues, and
sundry pieces of salt-pork were boiled, coffee roasted
and ground, sugar cracked, isinglass cut in pieces of
the size requisite for a pot of coffee. For the reception
of all these different articles cotton bags of different
sizes had been previously prepared. Large sacks of
skin, called by the Canadians^orcAes, were also provided
to hold the more bulky provisions, for our journey was
to be a long one.
The distance from Fort "Winnebago to Chicago was
not very formidable, it is true, if the direct route were
taken, but that we knew to be impossible at this season
of the year. The route by Kosh-ko-nong was out of
the question ; all the Indians being absent from their
villages in the winter, and the ice being now gone, we
could have no means of crossing the Eock River at
that place.
There remained therefore no alternative but to pro-
ceed south to Dixon, or, as it was then called, Ogie's
Ferry, the only certain means of crossing this broad and
rapid stream. This route being so much out of our
direct course that we could not hope to accomplish it
in less than six days, it was necessary to prepare
accordingly.
While the wardrobe and provisions were thus in pre-
128 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
paration, arrangements were also to be made as to our
retinue and mode of conveyance.
Mr. Kinzie decided to take with him but two men :
Plante and Pierre Roy. The former to act as guide, on
the assurance that he knew every mile of the way, from
the Portage to Ogie's Ferry, and from Ogie's Ferry to
Chicago.
The claims of the different saddle-horses were dis-
cussed, and the most eligible one selected for my use.
We hesitated for a time between "Le Gris" and
"Souris," two much-vaunted animals, belonging to
Paquette, the interpreter. At length being deter-
mined, like most of my sex, by a regard for exterior,
I chose "Le Gris," and " Souris" was assigned to young
Roy ; my own little stumpy pony, " Brunet," being pro-
nounced just the thing for a pack-saddle. My husband
rode his own bay horse " Tom," while Plante, the gayest
and proudest of the party, bestrode a fine, large animal
called "Jerry," which had lately been purchased for my
use, and thus was our cortege complete.
CHAPTER XIII.
DEPARTURE FROM FORT WINNEBAGO.
HAVING taken a tender leave of our friends, the
morning of the 8th of March saw us mounted and
equipped for our journey. The weather was fine the
streams, already fringed with green, were sparkling in
the sun everything gave promise of an early and
genial season. . In vain, when we reached the ferry at
the foot of the hill on which the fort stood, did Major
Twiggs repeat his endeavors to dissuade us from com-
mencing a journey which he assured me would be
perilous beyond what I could anticipate. I was reso-
lute.
Our party was augmented by an escort of all the
young officers, who politely insisted on accompanying
us as far as Duck Creek, four miles distant. Indeed,
there were some who would gladly have prosecuted
the whole journey with us, and escaped the monotony
of their solitary, uneventful life. In our rear followed
an ox-cart, on which was perched a canoe, destined to
transport us over the creek, and also an extensive
marsh beyond it, which was invariably, at this season,
overflowed with water to a considerable depth. We
6* ( 129 >
130 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
had much amusement in watching the progress of this
vehicle as it bumped and thumped over the road, un-
conscious hitherto of the dignity of a wheeled carriage.
Our little shock - headed, sun -burnt, thick-lipped
Canadian (who happened most miraculously to be the
husband of my pretty servant, Mrs. Pillon), shouted
vociferously as the animals lagged in their pace, or
jolted' against a stump, "Marchez, don-g" "regardez"
" prenez-garde" to our infinite diversion. I was in
high spirits, foreseeing no hardships or dangers, but
rather imagining myself embarked on a pleasure excur-
sion across the prairies. It had not even suggested
itself to me that a straw bonnet and kid gloves were
no suitable equipment for such an expedition. Never
having travelled at so inclement a season, I was heed-
lessly ignorant of the mode of preparing against it,
and had resisted or laughed at my husband's sugges-
tions to provide myself with blanket socks, and a wool-
len capuchon for my head and shoulders. And now,
although the wind occasionally lifted my headgear
with a rude puff, and my hands ere long became swol-
len and stiffened with the cold, I persuaded myself
that these were trifling evils, to which I should soon
get accustomed. I was too well pleased with the nov-
elty of my outfit, with my hunting-knife in a gay
scabbard hanging from my neck, and my tin cup 'at
my saddle-bow, to regard minor inconveniences.
On reaching Duck Creek, we took leave of our young
DEPAKTUKE FROM FORT WINTSTEBAGO. 131
friends, who remained on the bank long enough to wit-
ness our passage across ourselves in the canoe, and
the poor horses swimming the stream, now filled with
cakes of floating ice.
Beyond the rising ground which formed the oppo-
site bank of the stream, extended a marsh of perhaps
three hundred yards across. To this the men carried
the canoe which was to bear us over. The water was
not deep, so our attendants merely took off the pack
from Brunet and my side-saddle from Le Gris, for
fear of accidents, and then mounted their own steeds,
leading the two extra ones. My husband placed the
furniture of the pack-horse and my saddle in the centre
of the canoe, wliich he was to paddle across.
" Now, wifie," said he, "jump in, and seat yourself
flat in the bottom of the canoe."
" Oh, no," said I ; "I will sit on the little trunk in
the centre ; I shall be so much more comfortable, and
I can balance the canoe exactly."
" As you please, but I think you will find it is not
the best way."
A vigorous push sent us a few feet from the bank.
At that instant two favorite greyhounds whom we had
brought with us, and who had stood whining upon the
bank, reluctant to take to the water as they were
ordered, gave a sudden bound, and alighted full upon
me. The canoe balanced a moment then yielded
132 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
and, quick as thought, dogs, furniture, and lady were
in the deepest of the water.
My husband, who was just preparing to spring into
the canoe when the dogs thus unceremoniously took
precedence of him, was at my side in a moment, and
seizing me by the collar of my cloak, begged me not to
be frightened. I was not, in the least, and only laugh-
ed as he raised and placed me again upon the bank.
The unfortunate saddle and little trunk were then
rescued, but not until they had received a pretty tho-
rough wetting. Our merriment was still further in-
creased by the sight of the maladroit Pillon, who was
attempting to ride my spirited Jerry across the marsh.
He was clinging to the neck of the animal, with a
countenance distorted with terror, as he shouted forth
all manner of French objurgations. Jerry pranced and
curvetted, and finally shot forward his rider, or rather
his burden, headforemost, a distance of several feet
into the water.
A general outcry of mirth saluted the unfortunate
Frenchman, which was redoubled as he raised himself
puffing and snorting from his watery bed, and waddled
back to his starting-place, the horse, meanwhile, very
sensibly making his way to join his companions, who
had already reached the further bank.
"Well, wifie," said Mr. Kinzie, "I cannot trust you
in the canoe again. There is no way but to carry you
DEPARTURE FROM FORT WINNEBAGO. 133
across the marsh like a pappoose. Will you take a
ride on my shoulders ?"
" With all my heart, if you will promise to take me
safely " and I was soon mounted.
I must confess that the gentleman staggered now and
then under his burden, which was no slight one, and I
was sadly afraid, more than once, that I should meet a
similar fate to old Pillon, but happily we reached the
other side in safety.
There my husband insisted on my putting on dry
shoes and stockings, and (must I confess it) drinking a
little brandy, to obviate the effects of my icy bath. He
would fain have made a halt to kindle a fire and dry
my apparel and wardrobe properly, but this I would
not listen to. I endeavored to prove to him that the
delay would expose me to more cold than riding in my
wet habit and cloak, and so indeed, it might have been,
but along with my convictions upon the subject there
was mingled a spice of reluctance that our friends at
the fort should have an opportunity, as they certainly
would have done, of laughing at our inauspicious com-
mencement.
Soon our horses were put in order, and our march
recommenced. The day was fine for the season. I
felt no inconvenience from my wet garments, the exer-
cise of riding taking away all feeling of chilliness. It
was to me a new mode of travelling, and I enjoyed it
the more from having been secluded for more than
134 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
five months within the walls of the fort, scarcely vary-
ing the tenor of our lives by an occasional walk of
half a mile into the surrounding woods.
"We had still another detention upon the road, from
meeting Lapierre, the blacksmith, from Sugar Creek,
who with one of his associates was going into the Por-
tage for supplies, so that we had not travelled more
than twenty -three miles when we came to our proposed
encamping ground. It was upon a beautiful stream, a
tributary of one of the Four Lakes,* that chain whose
banks are unrivalled for romantic loveliness.
I could not but admire the sagacity of the horses,
who seemed, with human intelligence, to divine our
approach to the spot where their toils were to cease.
While still remote from the "point of woods" which
foretold a halt, they pricked up their ears, accelerated
their pace, and finally arrived at the spot on a full
gallop.
We alighted at an open space, just within the verge
of the wood, or, as it is called by western travellers,
" the timber." My husband recommended to me to
walk about until a fire should be made, which was
soon accomplished by our active and experienced
woodsmen, to whom the felling of a large tree was the
work of a very few minutes. The dry grass around
furnished an excellent tinder, which soon ignited by
* Between two of these lakes is now situated the town of Madi-
son the capital of the State of Wisconsin.
DEPAETURE FROM FORT WTNNEBAGO. 135
the sparks from the flint (there were no loco-focos in
those days), and aided by the broken branches and bits
of light- wood, soon produced a cheering flame. " The
bourgeois," in the meantime, busied himself in setting
up the tent, taking care to place it opposite the fire,
but in such a direction that the wind would carry the
smoke and flame away from the opening or door.
Within upon the ground were spread, first a bearskin,
then two or three blankets (of which each equestrian
had carried two, one under the saddle and one above
it), after which, the remainder of the luggage being
brought in, I was able to divest myself of all my wet
clothing and replace it with dry. Some idea of the
state of the thermometer may be formed from the fact
that my riding-habit, being placed over the end of the
huge log against which our fire was made, was, in a
very few minutes, frozen so stiff as to stand upright,
giving the appearance of a dress out of which a lady
had vanished in some unaccountable manner.
It would be but a repetition of our experience upon
the Fox River to describe the ham broiled upon the
" broches," the toasted bread, the steaming coffee the
primitive table furniture. There is, however, this dif-
ference, that of the latter we carry with us in our jour-
neys on horseback only a coffeepot, a teakettle, and
each rider his tin cup and hunting-knife. The deport-
ment at table is marked by an absence of ceremony.
The knife is drawn from the scabbard those who
136 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
remember to do so, vouchsafe it a wipe upon the nap-
kin. Its first office is to stir the cup of coffee next,
to divide the piece of ham which is placed on the half
of a travelling biscuit, which is held in the left hand,
and fulfils the office of a plate. It is an art only to be
acquired by long practice, to cut the meat so skilfully
as not at the same to destroy the dish.
We take our places around the mat to enjoy what,
after our fatiguing ride, we find delicious food. The
Frenchmen are seated at a little distance, receiving
their supplies of coffee, meat, and bread, and occasion-
ally passing jokes with "the bourgeois," who is their
demigod, and for whom their respect and devotion are
never lessened by any affability or condescension.
The meal being finished, the table furniture is rinsed
in hot water and set aside until morning. A wisp of
dry prairie-grass is supposed, in most cases, to render
the knife fit to be restored to the scabbard, and there
being, at this season of the year, no amusement but
that of watching the awkward movements of the span-
celled horses, in their progress from spot to spot in
search of pasturage, we are usually soon disposed to
arrange our blankets and retire to rest.
At break of day we are aroused by the shout of
"the bourgeois,"
"How! how! how!"
All start from their slumbers. The fire which has
been occasionally replenished through the night, is soon
DEPARTURE FROM FORT WINNEBAGO. 137
kindled into a flame. The horses are caught and sad-
dled, while a breakfast, similar in kind to the meal of
the preceding evening is preparing the tent is struck
the pack-horse loaded " tout demanche" as the Ca-
nadian says. The breakfast finished, we rinse our
kettles and cups, tie them to our saddle bows, and then
mount and away, leaving our fire, or rather our smoke,
to tell of our visit.
March 9th. Our journey this day led us past the
first of the Four Lakes. Scattered along its banks was
an encampment of Winnebagoes. They greeted their
"father" with vociferous joy "Bon-jour, bon-jour,
Shaw-nee-aw-Jcee" " Hee-nee-karray-Jcay-noo?" (how do
you do ?) To this succeeded the usual announcement,
" Wys-lcap-rah tshoonsh - Jcoo-nee - no /" (I have no
bread.)
This is their form of begging, but we could not
afford to be generous, for the uncertainty of obtaining
a supply, should our own be exhausted, obliged us to
observe the strictest economy.
How beautiful the encampment looked in the morn
ing sun! The matted lodges, with the blue smoke
curling from their tops the trees and bushes powdered
with a light snow which had fallen through the night
the lake, shining and sparkling, almost at our feet
even the Indians, in their peculiar costume, adding to
the picturesque !
I was sorry to leave it, as we were compelled to do,
138 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
in all haste, Souris, the pack-horse, having taken it
into his head to decamp while we were in conversation
with our red friends. As he had, very sensibly, con-
cluded to pursue his journey in the right direction,
we had the good fortune to overtake him after a short
race, and having received much scolding and some
blows from young Roy, whose charge he specially was,
he was placed in the middle of the cavalcade, as a
mark of disgrace for his breach of duty.
Our road, after leaving the lake, lay over a " rolling
prairie," now bare and desolate enough. The hollows
were filled with snow, which, being partly thawed,
furnished an uncertain footing for the horses, and I
could not but join in the ringing laughter of our
Frenchmen* as occasionally Brunet and Souris, the two
ponies, would flounder, almost imbedded, through the
yielding mass. Even the vain-glorious Plante, who
piqued himself on his equestrian skill, was once or
twice nearly unhorsed, from having chosen his road
badly. Sometimes the elevations were covered with a
thicket or copse, in which our dogs would generally
rouse up one or more deer. Their first bound, or
" lope," was the signal for a chase. The horses seemed
to enter into the spirit of it, as "halloo" answered
"halloo;" but we were never so fortunate as to get a
shot at one, for although the dogs once or twice caught,
they were not strong enough to hold them. It was
about the middle of the afternoon when we reached the
DEPASTURE FROM FORT WINNEBAGO. 139
" Blue Mound." I rejoiced much to have got so far,
for I was sadly fatigued, and every mile now seemed
two to me. In fact, the miles are unconscionably long
in this country. When I was told that we had still
seven miles to go, to "Morrison's," where we proposed
stopping for the night, I was almost in despair. It was
my first journey on horseback, and I had not yet
become inured to the exercise.
"When we reached Morrison's I was so much ex-
hausted that, as my husband attempted to lift me from
the saddle, I fell into his arms.
"This will never do," said he. "To-morrow we
must turn our faces towards Fort Winnebago again."
The door opened hospitably to receive us. We were
welcomed by a lady with a most sweet, benignant coun-
tenance, and by her companion, some years younger.
The first was Mrs. Morrison the other, Miss Elizabeth
Dodge, daughter of General Dodge.
My husband laid me upon a small bed, in the room
where the ladies had been sitting at work. They took
off my bonnet and riding-dress, chafed my hands, and
prepared me some warm wine and water, by which I
was soon revived. A half hour's repose so refreshed me
that I was able to converse with the ladies, and to re-
lieve my husband's mind of all anxiety on my account.
Tea was announced soon after, and we repaired to an
adjoining building, for Morrison's, like the establish-
ment of all settlers of that period, consisted of a group
140 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
of detached log-houses or cabins, each containing one
or at most two apartments.
The table groaned with good cheer, and brought to
mind some that I had seen among the old-fashioned
Dutch residents on the banks of the Hudson.
I had recovered my spirits, and we were quite a
cheerful party. Mrs. Morrison told us that during the
first eighteen months she passed in this country she
did not speak with a white woman, the only society
she had being that of her husband and two black serv-
ant-women.
A Tennessee woman had called in with her little
son just before tea, and we amused Mr. Kinzie with a
description of the pair. The mother's visit was simply
one of courtesy. She was a little duflnpy. woman, with
a complexion burned perfectly red by the sun hair of
an 'exact tow-color, braided up from her forehead in
front and from her neck behind, then meeting on the
top of her head, was fastened with a small tin comb.
Her dress was of checkered homespun, a "very tight
fit," and as she wore no ruff or handkerchief around
her neck, she looked as if just prepared for execution.
She was evidently awe-struck at the sight of visitors,
and seemed inclined to take her departure at once ; but
the boy, not so easily intimidated, would not understand
her signs and pinches until he had sidled up to Mrs.
Morrison, and drawing his old hat still farther over
his eyes, begged for a whang, meaning a narrow strip
DEPAKTURE FROM FORT WINNEBAGO.
of deer-skin. The lady very obligingly cut one from
a large smoked skin, which she produced from its
receptacle, and mother and son took their leave, with
a smiling but rather a scared look.
After tea we returned to Mrs. Morrison's parlor,
where she kindly insisted on my again reposing my-
self on the little bed, to recruit me, as she said, for the
ensuing day's journey. My husband, in the meantime,
werrt to look after the accommodation of his men and
horses.
During the conversation that ensued, I learned that
Mrs. Morrison had passed much time in the neigh-
borhood of my recent home in Oneida county that
many of the friends I had loved and valued were like-
wise her friends, and that she had even proposed to
visit me at Fort "Winnebago on hearing of my arrival
there, in order to commence an acquaintance which
had thus been brought about by other and unexpected
means.
Long and pleasant was the discourse we held to-
gether until a late hour, and mutual was the satisfac-
tion with which we passed old friends and by-gone
events in review, much to the edification of Miss Dodge,
and of the gentlemen when they once more joined us.
CHAPTER XIV.
WILLLAM S. HAMILTON KELLOGG'S
GROVE.
THE next morning, after a cheerful breakfast, at
which we were joined by the Kev. Mr. Kent, of Galena,
we prepared for our journey. I had reconciled my
husband to continuing our route towards Chicago, by
assuring him that I felt as fresh and bright as when I
first set out from home.
There seemed some apprehension, however, that we
might have difficulty in " striking the trail" to Hamil-
ton's diggings, our next point of destination.
The directions we received were certainly obscure.
We were to pursue a given trail for a certain number
of miles, when we should come to a crossing into which
we were to turn, taking an easterly direction after a
time, this would bring us to* a deep trail leading straight
to " Hamilton's." In this open country there are no
landmarks. One elevation is so exactly like another,
that if you lose your trail there is almost as little hope
of regaining it as of finding a pathway in the midst of
the ocean.*
* I speak, it will be understood, of things as they existed a
quarter of a century ago.
W. S. HAMILTON. KELLOGG'S GROVE. Ii3
The trail, it must be remembered, is not a broad
highway, but a narrow path, deeply indented by the
hoofs of the horses on which the Indians travel in
single file. So deeply is it sunk in the sod which
covers the prairies, that it is difficult, sometimes, to
distinguish it at a distance of a few rods.
It was new ground to Mr. Kinzie, whose journeys
from the Portage to Chicago had hitherto been made
in the direct route by Kosh-ko-nong. He therefore
obliged Mr. Morrison to repeat the directions again and
again, though Plante, our guide, swaggered and talked
big, averring that " he knew every hill and stream,
and point of woods from that spot to Chicago."
We had not proceeded many miles on our journey,
however, before we discovered that Monsieur Plante
was profoundly ignorant of the country, so that Mr.
Kinzie was obliged to take the lead himself, and make
his way as he was best able, according to the directions
he had received. Nothing, however, like the "cross
trails" we had been promised met our view, and the
path on which we had set "out diverged so much from
what we knew to be the right direction, that we were
at length compelled to abandon it altogether.
We travelled the live-long day, barely making a
halt at noon to bait our horses, and refresh ourselves
with a luncheon. The ride was as gloomy and deso-
late as could well be imagined. A rolling prairie,
unvaried by forest or stream hillock rising after hil-
144 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
lock, at every ascent of which we vainly hoped to see
a distant fringe of " timber" But the same cheerless,
unbounded prospect everywhere met the eye, diversi-
fied only here and there by the oblong openings, like
gigantic graves, which marked an unsuccessful search
for indications of a lead mine.
So great was our anxiety to recover our trail, fer
the weather was growing more cold, and the wind
more sharp and piercing, that we were not tempted to
turn from our course even by the appearance, more than
once, of a gaunt prairie-wolf, peering over the nearest
rising-ground, and seeming to dare us to an encounter.
The Frenchmen, it is true, would instinctively give a
shout and spur on their horses, while the hounds, Kelda
and Cora would rush to the chase, but the " bour-
geois" soon called them back, with a warning that we
must attend strictly to the prosecution of our journey.
Just before sunset we crossed, with some difficulty, a
muddy stream, which was bordered by a scanty belt of
trees, making a tolerable encamping-ground ; and of
this we gladly availed ourselves, although we knew
not whether it was near or remote from the place we
were in search of.
We had ridden at least fifty miles since leaving
" Morrison's," yet I was sensible of very little fatigue;
but there was a vague feeling of discomfort at the idea
of being lost in this wild, cold region, altogether differ-
ent from anything I had ever before experienced. The
w. s. HAMILTON. KELLOGG'S GROVE. 145
encouraging tones of my husband's voice, however,
" Cheer up, 'wine we will find the trail to-morrow,"
served to dissipate all uneasiness.
The exertions of the men soon made our "camp"
comfortable, notwithstanding the difficulty of driving
the tent-pins into the frozen ground, and the want of
trees sufficiently large to make a rousing fire. The
place was a stony side-hill, as it would be called in New
England, where such things abound ; but we were not
disposed to be fastidious, so we ate our salt ham and
toasted our bread, and lent a pleased ear to the chatter
of our Frenchmen, who could not sufficiently admire
the heroism of " Madame John," amid the vicissitudes
that befel her.
The wind, which at bed-time was sufficiently high
to be uncomfortable, increased during the night. It
snowed heavily, and we were every moment in dread
that the tent would be carried away ; but the matter
was settled in the midst by the snapping of the poles,
and the falling of the whole, with its superincumbent
weight of snow, in a mass upon us.
Mr. Kinzie roused up his men, and at their head he
sallied into the neighboring wood to cut a new set of
poles, leaving me to bear the burden of the whole upon
my shoulders, my only safety from the storm being to
keep snugly housed beneath the canvas.
With some difficulty a sort of support was at length
adjusted for the tent covering, which answered our
7
146 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
purpose tolerably well until the break of day, wlien
our damp and miserable condition made us very glad
to rise and hang round the fire until breakfast was
dispatched, and the horses once more saddled for our
journey.
The prospect was not an encouraging one. Around
us was an unbroken sheet of snow. "We had no com-
pass, and the air was so obscured by the driving sleet,
that it was often impossible to tell in which direction
the sun was. I tied my husband's silk pocket hand-
kerchief over my veil, to protect my face from the
wind and icy particles with which the air was filled,
and which cut like a razor ; but although shielded in
every way that circumstances rendered possible, I suf-
fered intensely from the cold.
We pursued our way, mile after mile, entering every
point of woods, in hopes of meeting with, at least, some
Indian wigwam at which we could gain intelligence.
Every spot was solitary and deserted, not even the
trace of a recent fire, to cheer us with the hope of
human beings within miles of us.
Suddenly, a shout from the foremost of the party
made each heart bound with joy.
" Une cloture ! une cloture /" (a fence, a fence).
It was almost like life to the dead.
We spurred on, and indeed perceived a few strag-
gling rails crowning a rising ground at no great dis-
tance.
W. S. HAMILTON. KELLOGG's GROVE. 147
Never did music sound so sweet as the crowing of
a cock which, at this moment saluted our ears.
Following the course of the inclosure down the oppo-
site slope, we came upon a group of log-cabins, low,
shabby, and unpromising in their appearance, but a
most welcome shelter from the pelting storm.
Whose cabins are these?" asked Mr. Kinzie, of a
man who was cutting wood at the door of one.
" Hamilton's," was the reply ; and he stepped for-
ward at once to assist us to alight, hospitality being a
matter of course in these wild regions.
We were shown into the most comfortable-looking
of the buildings. A large fire was burning in the clay
chimney, and the room was of a genial warmth, not-
withstanding the apertures, many inches in width, be-
side the doors and windows. A woman in a tidy
calico dress, and shabby black silk cap, trimmed with
still shabbier lace, rose from her seat beside a sort of
bread-trough, which fulfilled the office of cradle to a
fine, fat baby. She made room for us at the fire, but
was either too timid or too ignorant to relieve me
of my wrappings and defences, now heavy with the
snow.
I soon contrived, with my husband's aid, to disem-
barrass myself of them; and having seen me comfort-
ably disposed of, and in a fair way to be thawed after
my freezing ride, he left me to see after his men and
horses.
148 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
lie was a long time absent, and I expected lie would
return, accompanied by our host ; but when he reappear-
ed, it was to tell me, laughing, that Mr. Hamilton hes-
itated to present himself before me, being unwilling
that one who had been acquainted with some of his
family at the east, should see him in his present mode
of life. However, this feeling apparently wore off, for
before dinner he came in and was introduced to me,
and was as agreeable and polite as the son of Alex-
ander Hamilton would naturally be.
The housekeeper, who was the wife of one of the
miners, prepared us a plain, comfortable dinner, and a
table as long as the dimensions of the cabin would ad-
mit was set out, the end nearest the fire being covered
with somewhat nicer furniture and more delicate fare
than the remaining portion.
The blowing of a horn was the signal for the en-
trance of ten or twelve miners, who took their places
below us at the table. They were the roughest-looking
set of men I ever beheld, and their language was as
uncouth as their persons. They wore hunting-shirts,
trowsers, and moccasins of deerskin, the former being
ornamented at the seams with a fringe of the same,
while a colored belt around the waist, in which was
stuck a large hunting-knife, gave each the appearance
of a brigand.
Mr. Hamilton, although so much their superior, was
addressed by them uniformly as "Uncle Billy;" and
W. S. HAMILTON. KELLQGG-'S GROVE. 149
I could not but fancy there was something desperate
about them, that it was necessary to propitiate by this
familiarity. This feeling was further confirmed by the
remarks of one of the company who lingered behind,
after the rest of the gang had taken their departure.
He had learned that we came from Fort Winnebago,
and having informed us that " he was a discharged
soldier, and would like to make some inquiries about
his old station and comrades," he unceremoniously
seated himself and commenced questioning us.
The bitterness with which he spoke of his former
officers made me quite sure he 'was a deserter, and I
rather thought he had made his escape from the service
in consequence of some punishment. His countenance
was fairly distorted as he spoke of Captain H., to whose
company he had belonged. " There is a man in the
mines," said he, " who has been in his hands, and if
he ever gets a chance to come within shot of him, I
guess the Captain will remember it. He knows well
enough he darsn't set his foot in the diggings. And
there's T. is not much better. Everybody thought it
a great pity that fellow's gun snapped when he so
nearly had him at Green Bay."
Having delivered himself of these sentiments, he
marched out, to my great relief.
Mr. Hamilton passed most of the afternoon with us ;
for the storm raged so without that to proceed on our
journey was out of the question. He gave us many
150 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
pleasant anecdotes and reminiscences of his early life
in New York, and of his adventures since he had come
to the western wilderness. When obliged to leave us
for a while, lie furnished us with some books to enter-
tain us, the most interesting of which was the biogra-
phy of his father.
Could this illustrious man have foreseen in what a
scene the dwelling of his son this book was to be
one day perused, what would have been his sen-
sations ?
The most amusing part of our experience was yet to
come. I had been speculating, as evening approached,
on our prospects for the night's accommodation. As
our pale, melancholy-looking landlady and her fat baby
were evidently the only specimens of the feminine gen-
der about the establishment, it was hardly reasonable
to suppose that any of the other cabins contained
wherewithal to furnish us a comfortable lodging, and
the one in which we were offered nothing of the sort
to view, but two beds, uncurtained, extended against
the farther wall. My doubts were after a time resolved,
by observing the hostess stretch a cord between the
two, on which &he hung some petticoats and extra gar-
ments, by way of a partition, after which she invited
us to occupy one of them.
My only preparation was, to wrap my cloak around
me and lie down with my face to the wall ; but the
good people were less ceremonious, for at the distance
W. S. HAMILTON. KELLOGG'S GROVE. 151
of scarcely two feet, we could not be mistaken in tho
sound of their garments being, not " laid aside," but
whipped over the partition wall between us.
Our waking thoughts, however, were only those of
thankfulness for so comfortable a lodging after the
trials and fatigues we had undergone ; and even these
were of short duration, for our eyes were soon closed
in slumber.
The next day's sun rose clear and bright. Refreshed
and invigorated, we looked forward with pleasure to a
recommencement of our journey, confident of meeting
no more mishaps by the way. Mr. Hamilton kindly
offered to accompany us to his next neighbor's, the
trifling distance of twenty -five miles. From Kellogg's
to Ogie's Ferry, on the Eock River, the road being
much travelled, we should be in no danger, Mr. H.
said, of again losing our way.
The miner who owned the wife and baby, and who,
consequently, was somewhat more humanized than his
comrades, in taking leave of us " wished us well out
of the country, and that we might never have occasion
to return to it 1"
" I pity a body," said he, "when I see them making
such an awful mistake as to come out this way, for
comfort never touched this western country."
We found Mr. Hamilton as agreeable a companion
as on the preceding day, but a most desperate rider.
He galloped on at such a rate that had I not exchanged
152 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
my pony for the fine, noble Jerry, I should have been
in danger of being left behind.
Well mounted as we all were, he sometimes nearly
distanced us. We were now among the branches of
the Pickatonick, and the country had lost its prairie
character, and become more rough and broken. We
went dashing on, sometimes down ravines, sometimes
through narrow passes, where, as I followed, I left
fragments of my veil upon the projecting and inter-
woven branches. Once my hat became entangled, and
had not my husband sprung to my rescue, I must have
shared the fate of Absalom, Jerry's ambition to keep
his place in the race making it probable he would do
as did the mule who was under the unfortunate prince.
There was no halting upon the route, and as we kept
the same pace until three o'clock in the afternoon, it
was beyond a question that when we reached " Kel-
logg's," we had travelled at least thirty miles. One
of my greatest annoyances during the ride had been
the behavior of the little beast Brunei. He had been
hitherto used as a saddle-horse, and had been accus-
tomed to a station in the file near the guide or leader.
He did not relish being put in the background as a
pack-horse, and accordingly, whenever we approached
a stream, where the file broke up to permit each horse-
man to choose his own place of fording, it was invari-
ably the case that just as I was reining Jerry into the
water, Brunet would come rushing past and throw
W. S. HAMILTON. KELLOGG'G GROVE. 153
himself into our very footsteps. Plunging, snorting,
and splashing me with water, and sometimes even
startling Jerry into a leap aside, he more than once
brought me into imminent danger of being tossed into
the stream. It was in vain that, after one or two such
adventures, I learned to hold back and give the vexa
tious little animal the precedence. His passion seemed
to be to go into the water precisely at the moment
Jerry did, and I was obliged at last to make a bargain
with young Eoy to dismount and hold him at every
stream until I had got safely across.
" Kellogg's"* was a comfortable mansion, just with-
in the verge of a pleasant " grove of timber," as a small
forest is called by western travellers. We found Mrs.
Kellogg a very respectable-looking matron, who soon
informed us she was from the city of JS^ew York. She
appeared proud and delighted to entertain Mr. Hamil-
ton, for whose family, she took occasion to tell us, she
had, in former days, been in the habit of doing needle-
work.
The worthy woman provided us an excellent dinner,
and afterwards installed me in a rocking-chair beside a
large fire, with the " Life of Mrs. Fletcher" to enter-
tain me, while the gentlemen explored the premises,
visited Mr. Kellogg's " stock," and took a careful look
at their own. We had intended to go to Dixon's the
* It was at this spot that the unfortunate St. Vrain lost his life,
during the Sauk war, in 1832.
7*
154 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
same afternoon, but the snow beginning again to fall,
obliged us to content ourselves where we were.
In the meantime, finding we were journeying to
Chicago, Mr. Kellogg came to the determination to ac-
company us, having, as he said, some business to ac-
complish at that place, so Mrs. Kellogg busied herself
in preparing him to* set off with us the following
morning. I pleaded hard to remain yet another day,
as the following was Sunday, on which I objected to
travel ; but in view of the necessities of the case, the
uncertainty of the weather, and the importance of get-
ting as quickly as possible through this wild country,
my objections were overruled, and I could only obtain a
delay in starting until so late in the afternoon, as would
give us just time to ride the sixteen miles to " Dixon's"
before sunset.
No great time was required for Mr. Kellogg's pre-
parations. He would take, he said, only two days'
provisions, for at his brother-in-law Dixon's we should
get our supper and breakfast, and the route from there
to Chicago could, he well knew, be accomplished in a
day and a half.
Although, according to this calculation, we had suf-
ficient remaining of our stores to carry us to the end
of our journey, yet Mr. Kinzie took the precaution of
begging Mrs. Kellogg to bake us another bag of bis-
cuits, in case of accidents, and he likewise suggested
to Mr. K. the prudence of furnishing himself with
W. S. HAMILTON. KELLOGG'S GROVE. 155
something more than his limited allowance ; but the
good man objected that he was unwilling to burden
his horse more than was absolutely necessary, seeing
that, at this season of the year, we were obliged to
carry fodder for the animals, in addition to the rest of
their load. It will be seen that we had reason to re-
joice in our own foresight.
My experience of the previous night had rendered
me somewhat less fastidious than when I commenced
my journey, so that, when introduced to our sleeping
apartment, which I found we were to share with six
men, travellers like ourselves, my only feeling was one
of thankfulness that each bed was furnished with a full
suit of blue checked curtains, which formed a very to-
lerable substitute for a dressing-room.
CHAPTER XV.
ROCK RIVER HOURS OF TROUBLE.
IT was late on the following day (March 13th), when
we took leave of our kind hostess. She loaded us with
cakes, good wishes, and messages to her sister Dixon
and the children. "We journeyed pleasantly along
through a country, beautiful, in spite of its wintry ap-
pearance.
There was a house at "Buffalo Grove," at which
we stopped for half an-hour, and where a nice-looking
young girl presented us with some maple-sugar of her
own making. She entertained us with the history of
a contest between two rival claimants for the patronage
of the stage wagon, the proprietors of which had not
decided whether to send it by Buffalo Grove or by an-
other route, which she pointed out to us, at no great
distance. The driver, she took care to inform us, was
in favor of the former ; and the blush with which she
replied in the affirmative to our inquiry, "Was he a
young man ?" explained the whole matter satisfactorily.
At length, just at sunset, we reached the dark, rapid
waters of the Rock River. The " ferry" which we had
travelled so far out of our way to take advantage of,
1156)
ROCK RIVER HOURS OF TROUBLE. 157
proved to be merely a small boat or skiff, the larger
one having been swept off into the stream, and carried
down in the breaking up of the ice, the week previous.
My husband's first care was to get me across. He
placed me with the saddles, packs, &c., in the boat,
and as, at that late hour, no time was to be lost, he
ventured, at the same time, to hold the bridles of the
two most docile horses, to guide them in swimming the
river.
When we had proceeded a few rods from the shore,
we were* startled by a loud puffing and blowing near
us, and looking around, to our great surprise, disco-
vered little Brunet just upon our "weather-bow."
Determined not to be outdone by his model, Jerry, he
had taken to the water on his own responsibility, and
arrived at the opposite shore as soon as any of the
party.
All being safely landed, a short walk brought us to
the house of Mr. Dixon. Although so recently come
into the country, he had contrived to make everything
comfortable around him, and when he ushered us into
Mrs. Dixon's sitting-room, and seated us by a glowing
wood fire, while Mrs. Dixon busied herself in pre-
paring us a nice supper, I felt that the comfort over-
balanced the inconvenience of such a journey.
Mrs. Dixon was surrounded by several children.
One leaning against the chimney-piece was dressed in
the full Indian costume calico shirt, blanket, and leg-
158 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
gings. His dark complexion, and full, melancholy
eyes, which he kept fixed upon the ashes in which he
was making marks with a stick, rarely raising them to
gaze on us, as children are wont to do, interested me
exceedingly, and I inquired of an intelligent little girl,
evidently a daughter of our host :
"Who is that boy?"
"Oh! that is John Ogie," answered she.
" What is the matter with him? he looks very sad."
" Oh I he is fretting after his mother."
"Is she dead then?" *
" Some say she is dead, and some say she is gone
away. I guess she is dead, and buried up in one of
those graves yonder" pointing to two or three little
picketed inclosures upon a rising ground opposite the
window.
I felt a strong sympathy with the child, which was
increased when the little spokeswoman, in answer to
my inquiry, " Has he no father," replied
" Oh, yes, but he goes away, and drinks, and don't
care for his children."
"And what becomes of John, then?"
" He stays here with us, and we teach him to read,
and he learns dreadful fast."
When the boy at length turned his large dark eyes
upon me, it went to my heart. It was such a mother-
less look. And it was explained, when long afterward,
I learned his further history. His mother was still
ROCK RIVER HOURS OF TROUBLE. 159
living, and lie knew it, although with the reserve pe-
culiar to his people, he never spoke of her to his young
companions. Unable to endure the continued ill-
treatment of her husband, a surly, intemperate Cana-
dian, she had left him, and returned to his family
among the Pottowattamies. Years after, this boy and
a brother who had also been left behind with their father
found their way to the Upper Missouri, to join their
mother, who, with the others of her tribe, had been re-
moved by the Government from the shores of Lake
Michigan.
A most savoury supper of ducks and venison, with
their accompaniments, soon smoked upon the board,
and we did ample justice to it. Travelling is a great
sharpener of the appetite, and so is cheerfulness, and
the latter was increased by the encouraging account
Mr. Dixon gave us of the remainder of the route yet
before us.
" There is no difficulty," said he, " if you keep a
little to the north, and strike the great Sank trail. If
you get too far to the south, you will come upon the
Winnebago Swamp, and once in that, there is no
telling when you will ever get out again. As for the
distance, it is nothing at all to speak of. Two young
men came out here from Chicago, on foot, last fall.
They got here the evening of the second day ; and
even with a lady in your party, you could go on horse-
back in less time than that. The only thing is to be sure
160 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
and get on the great track that the Sauks have made,
in going every year from the Mississippi to Canada, to
receive their presents from the British Indian Agent."
The following morning, which was a bright and
lovely one for that season of the year, we took leave
of Mr. and Mrs. Dixon, in high spirits. We travelled
for the first few miles along the beautiful, undulating
banks of the Eock Eiver, always in an easterly direc-
tion, keeping the beaten path, or rather road, which led
to Fort Clark, or Peoria. The Sauk trail, we had been
told, would cross this road, at the distance of about
six miles.
After having travelled, as we judged, fully that dis-
tance, we came upon a trail, bearing north-east, and a
consultation was held as to the probability of its being
the one we were in search of.
Mr. Kinzie was of opinion that it tended too much
to the north, and was, moreover, too faint and obscure
for a trail so much used, and by so large a body of In-
dians in their annual journeys.
Plante was positive as to its being the very spot
where he and " Piche'" in their journey to Fort Winne-
bag'o, the year before, struck into the great road. " On
that very rising-ground at the point of woods, he re-
membered perfectly stopping to shoot ducks, which
they ate for their supper."
Mr. Kellogg was non-committal, but sided alter-
nately with each speaker.
ROCK RIVER HOURS OF TROUBLE. 161
As Plante was "the guide," and withal so confident
of being right, it was decided to follow him, not with-
out some demurring, however,, on the part of the
" bourgeois," who every now and then called a halt, to
discuss the state of affairs.
"Now Plante," he would say, "I am sure you are
leading us too far north. Why, man, if we keep on
in this direction, following the course of the river, we
shall bring up at Kosh-ko-nong, instead of Chicago."
"Ah! mon bourgeois," would the light-hearted Ca-
nadian reply, " would I tell you this is the road if I
were not quite certain ? Only one year ago I travelled
it, and can I forget so soon ? Oh ! no I remember
every foot of it."
But Monsieur Plante was convinced of his mistake
when the trail brought us to the great bend of the
river with its bold rocky bluffs.
" Are you satisfied, now, Plante?" asked Mr. Kinzie.
" By your leave, I will now play pilot myself," and he
struck off from the trail, in a direction as nearly east
as possible.
The weather had changed and become intensely cold,
and we felt that the detention we had met with, even
should we now be in the right road, was no trifling
matter. We had not added to our stock of provisions
at Dixon's, wishing to carry as much forage as we
were able for our horses, for whom the scanty picking
around our encamping grounds afforded an insufficient
162 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
meal. Bat we were buoyed up by the hope that we
were in the right path at last, and we journeyed on
until night, when we reached a comfortable "encamp-
ment," in the edge of a grove near a small stream.
Oh ! how bitterly cold that night was ! The salted
provisions, to which I was unaccustomed, occasioned
me an intolerable thirst, and my husband was in the
habit of placing the little tin coffee-pot filled with
water at my bed's head when we went to rest, but this
night it was frozen solid long before midnight. We
were so well wrapped up in blankets that we did
not suffer from cold while within the tent, but the
open air was severe in the extreme.
March 15th. "We were roused by the "bourgeois"
at peep of day to make preparations for starting. We
must find the Sauk trail this day at all hazards. What
would become of us should we fail to do so ? It was
a question no one liked to ask, and certainly one that
none could have answered.
On leaving our encampment, we found ourselves
entering a marshy tract of country. Myriads of wild
geese, brant, and ducks rose up screaming at our
approach. The more distant lakes and ponds were
black with them, but the shallow water through which
we attempted to make our way was frozen by the
severity of the night, to a thickness not sufficient to
bear the horses, but just such as to cut their feet and
ankles at every step as they broke through it. Some-
ROCK RIVER HOURS OF TROUBLE. 163
times the difficulty of going forward was so great that
we were obliged to retrace our steps and make our
way round the head of the marsh, thus adding to the
discomforts of our situation by the conviction, that
while journeying diligently, we were, in fact, making
very little progress.
This swampy region at length passed, we came upon
more solid ground, chiefly the open prairie. But now
a new trouble assailed us. The weather had moder-
ated, and a blinding snow storm came on. Without a
trail that we could rely upon, and destitute of a com-
pass, our only dependence had been the sun to point
out our direction, but the atmosphere was now so
obscure that it was impossible to tell in what quarter
of the heavens he was.
We pursued our way, however, and a devious one
it must have been. After travelling in this way many
miles, we came upon an Indian trail, deeply indented,
running at right angles with the course we were pur-
suing. The snow had ceased, and the clouds becoming
thinner, we were able to observe the direction of the
sun, and to perceive that the trail ran north and south.
What should we do ? Was it safest to pursue our
easterly course, or was it probable that by following
this new path we should fall into the direct one we
had been so long seeking ? If we decided to take the
trail, should we go north or south ? Mr. Kinzie was
for the latter. He was of opinion we were still too far
164: THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH- WEST.
north somewhere about the Grand Marais, or Kish-
wau-kee. Mr. Kellogg and Plante were for taking the
northerly direction. The latter was positive his bour-
geois had already gone too far south in fact, that we
must now be in the neighborhood of the Illinois river.
Finding himself in the minority, my husband yielded,
and we turned our horses' heads north, much against
his will. After proceeding a few miles, however, he
took a sudden determination. " You may go north, if
you please," said he, "but I am convinced that the
other course is right, and I shall face about follow
who will."
So we wheeled round and rode south again, and
many a long and weary mile did we travel, the
monotony of our ride broken only by the querulous
remarks of poor Mr. Kellogg. " I am really afraid we
are wrong, Mr. Kinzie. I feel pretty sure that the
young man is right. It looks most natural to me that
we should take a northerly course, and not be stretch-
ing away so far to the south."
To all this, Mr. Kinzie turned a deaf ear. The
Frenchmen rode on in silence. They would as soon
have thought of cutting off their right hand as show-
ing opposition to the bourgeois when he had once
expressed his decision. They would never have
dreamed of offering an opinion or remark unless called
upon to do so.
The road, which had continued many miles through
ROCK RIVER HOURS OF TROUBLE. 165
the prairie, at length, in winding round a point of
woods, brought us suddenly upon an Indian village.
A shout of joy broke from the whole party, but no
answering shout was returned not even a bark of
friendly welcome as we galloped up to the wigwams.
All was silent as the 'grave. We rode round and
round, then dismounted and looked into several of the
spacious huts. They had evidently been long deserted.
Nothing remained but the bare walls of bark, from
which everything in the shape of furniture had been
stripped by the owners and carried with them to their
wintering-grounds ; to be brought back in the spring,
when they returned to make their corn-fields and occu-
py their summer cabins.
Our disappointment may -be better imagined than
described. With heavy hearts, we mounted and once
more pursued our way, the snow again falling and
adding to the disccfmforts of our position. At length
we halted for the night. We had long been aware
that our stock of provisions was insufficient for another
day, and here we were nobody knew where in the
midst of woods and prairies certainly far from any
human habitation, with barely enough food for a slen-
der evening's meal.
The poor dogs came whining around us to beg their
usual portion, but they were obliged to content them-
selves with a bare bone, and we retired to rest with
the feeling that if not actually hungry then, we should
certainly be so to-morrow.
166 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
The morrow came. Plante and Roy had a bright
fire and a nice pot of coffee for us. It was our only
breakfast, for on shaking the bag and turning it inside
out, we could make no more of our stock of bread than
three crackers, which the rest of the party insisted I
should put in my pocket for my dinner. I was much
touched by the kindness of Mr. Kellogg, who drew
from his wallet a piece of tongue and a slice of fruit-
cake, which he said " he been saving for the lady since
the day before, for he saw how matters were a-going."
Poor man ! it would have been well if he had
listened to Mr. Kinzie, and provided himself at the
outset with a larger store of provisions. As it was,
those he brought with him were exhausted early the
second day, and he had been hoarding with us for the
last two meals.
We still had the trail to guide us, and we continued
to follow it until about nine o'clock, when, in emerging
from a wood, we came upon a broad and rapid river.
A collection of Indian wigwams stood upon the oppo-
site bank, and as the trail led directly to the water, it
was fair to infer that the stream was fordable. We had
no opportunity of testing it, however, for the banks
were so lined with ice, which was piled up tier upon
tier by the breaking-up of the previous week, that we
tried in vain to find a path by which we could descend
the bank to the water.
The men shouted again and again in hopes some
ROCK RIVERHOURS OF TROUBLE. 167
straggling inhabitant of the village might be at hand
with his canoe. No answer was returned save by the
echoes. What was to be done ? I looked at my hus-
band and saw that care was on his brow, although he
still continued to speak cheerfully. " We will follow
this cross-trail down the bank of the river," said he.
" There must be Indians wintering near in some of
these points of wood."
I must confess that I felt somewhat dismayed at our
prospects, but I kept up a show of courage, and did
not allow my despondency to be seen. All the party
were dull and gloomy enough.
We kept along the bank, which was considerably
elevated above the water, and bordered at a little dis-
tance with a thick wood. All at once my horse, who
was mortally afraid of Indians, began to jump and
prance, snorting and pricking up his ears as if an enemy
were at hand. I screamed with delight to my husband,
who was at the head of the file, " Oh John ! John !
there are Indians near look at Jerry !"
At this instant a little Indian dog ran out from
under the bushes by the roadside, and began barking
at us. Never were sounds more welcome. We rode
directly into the thicket, and descending into a little
hollow, found two squaws crouching behind the bushes,
trying to conceal themselves from our sight.
They appeared greatly relieved when Mr. Kinzie
addressed them in the Pottowattamie language
168 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
" What are you doing here ?"
" Digging Indian potatoes" (a species of artichoke.)
" Where is your lodge?"
" On the other side of the river."
" Good then you have a canoe here. Can you take
us across ?"
" Yes the canoe is very small."
They conducted us down the bank to the water's
edge where the canoe was. It was indeed very small
My husband explained to them that they must take me
across first, and then return for the others of the party.
"Will you trust yourself alone over the river?"
inquired he. "You see that but one can cross at
time."
" Oh ! yes" and I was soon placed in the bottom
of the canoe, lying flat and looking up at the sky,
while the older squaw took the paddle in her hand,
and placed herself on her knees at my head, and the
younger, a girl of fourteen or fifteen, stationed herself
at my feet. There was just room enough for me to
lie in this position, each of the others kneeling in the
opposite ends of the canoe.
While these preparations were making, Mr. Kinzie
questioned the woman as to our whereabout. They
knew no name for the river but " Saumanong." This
was not definite, it being the generic term for any large
stream. But he gathered that the village we had passed
higher up, on the opposite side of the stream, was
ROCK EIVER HOURS OF TROUBLE. 169
Wau-ban-see's, and tlien lie knew that we were on
the Fox Eiver, and probably about fifty miles from
Chicago.
The squaw, in answer to his inquiries, assured him
that Chicago was " close by."
" That means," said he " that it is not so far off as
Canada. We must not be too sanguine."
The men sat about unpacking the horses, and I in
the meantime was paddled across the river. The old
woman immediately returned, leaving the younger one
with me for company. I seated myself on the 1 fallen
trunk of a tree, in the midst of the snow, and looked
across the dark waters. I am not ashamed to confess
my weakness for the first time on my journey I shed
tears. It was neither hunger, nor fear, nor cold which
extorted them from me. It was the utter desolation of
spirit, the sickness of heart which "hope deferred"
ever occasions, and which of all evils is the hardest to
bear.
The poor little squaw looked into my face with a
wondering and sympathizing expression. Probably
she was speculating in her own mind what a person
who rode so fine a horse, and wore so comfortable a
broadcloth dress, could have to cry about. I pointed
to a seat beside me on the log, but she preferred stand-
ing and gazing at me, with the same pitying expres-
sion. Presently she was joined by a young companion,
and after a short chattering, of which I was evidently
8
170 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH- WEST.
the subject, they both trotted off into the woods, and
left me to my own solitary reflections.
" What would my friends at the East think," said I
to myself, " if they could see me now ? What would
poor old Mrs. Welsh say ? She who warned me that
if I came away so far to the West, I should break my
heart? Would she not rejoice to find how likely her
prediction was to be fulfilled ?"
These thoughts roused me. I dried up my tears,
and by the time my husband with his party, and all
his horses and luggage, were across, I had recovered
my cheerfulness, and was ready for fresh adventures.
CHAPTER X\I.
RELIEF.
WE followed the old squaw to her lodge, which
was at no great distance in the woods. I had never
before been in an Indian lodge, although I had occa-
sionally peeped into one of the many, clustered round
the house of the interpreter at the Portage on my visits
to his wife.
This one was very nicely arranged. Four sticks of
wood placed to form a square in the centre, answered
the purpose of a hearth, within which the fire was
built, the smoke escaping through an opening in the
top. The mats of which the lodge was constructed
were very neat and new, and against the sides, depend-
ing from the poles or frame-work, hung various bags
of Indian manufacture, containing their dried food
and other household treasures. Sundry ladles, small
kettles, and wooden bowls also hung from the cross-
poles, and dangling from the centre, by an iron chain,
was a large kettle, in which some dark, suspicious-
looking substance was seething over the scanty fire.
On the floor of the lodge, between the fire and the
outer wall, were spread mats, upon which my husband
invited me to be seated and make myself comfortable.
(in)
172 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
The first demand of an Indian on meeting a white
man is for bread, of which they are exceedingly fond,
and I knew enough of the Pottowattamie language to
comprehend the timid " pe-qiia-zhe-gun choli-kay-go"
(I have no bread), with which the squaw commenced
our conversation after my husband had left the lodge.
I shook my head, and endeavored to convey to her
that, so far from being able to give, I had had no
breakfast myself. She understood me, and instantly
produced a bowl, into which she ladled a quantity of
Indian potatoes from the kettle over the fire, and set
them before me. I was too hungry to be fastidious,
and owing partly, no doubt, to the sharpness of my
appetite, I really found them delicious.
Two little girls, inmates of the lodge, sat gazing at
me with evident admiration and astonishment, which
was increased when I took my little prayer-book from
my pocket and began to read. They had, undoubtedly,
never seen a book before, and I was amused at the
care with which they looked away from' me, while they
questioned their mother about my strange employment
and listened to her replies.
While thus occupied, I was startled by a sudden
sound of " hogh I" and the mat which hung over the
entrance of the lodge was raised, and an Indian entered
with that graceful bound which is peculiar to them-
selves. It was the master of the lodge, who had been
out to shoot ducks, and was just returned. He was a tall,
RELIEF. 173
finely-formed man, with a cheerful, open countenance,
and he listened to what his wife in a quiet tone related
to him, while he divested himself of his accoutrements
in the most unembarrassed, well-bred manner imagin-
able.
Soon my husband joined us. He had been engaged
in attending to the comfort of his horses, and assisting
his men in making their fire, and pitching their tent,
which the rising storm made a matter of some diffi-
culty.
From the Indian he learned that we were in what
was called " the Big Woods,"* or " Pichd's Grove,"
from a Frenchman of that name living not far from the
spot that the river we had crossed was the Fox
Kiver that he could guide us to Pickets, from which
the road was perfectly plain, or even into Chicago if
we preferred but that we had better remain encamped
for that day, as there was a storm coming on, and in
the mean time he would go and shoot some ducks for
our dinner and supper. He was accordingly furnished
with powder and shot, and set off again for game
without delay.
I had put into my pocket, on leaving home, a roll of
scarlet ribbon, in case a stout string should be wanted,
and I now drew it forth, and with the knife which
* Probably at what is now Oswego. The name of a portion of
the wood is since corrupted into Specie's Grove.
174: THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
hung around, my neck I cut off a couple of yards
for each of the little girls. They received it with great
delight, and their mother, dividing each portion into
two, tied a piece to each of the little clubs into which
their hair was knotted on the temples. They laughed,
and exclaimed " Saum !" as they gazed at each other,
and their mother joined in their mirth, although, as I
thought, a little unwilling to display her maternal
exultation before a stranger.
The tent being all in order, my husband came for
me, and we took leave of our friends in the wigwam
with grateful hearts.
The storm was raging without. The trees were
bending and cracking around us, and the air was com-
pletely filled with the wild- fowl screaming and quack-
ing as they made their way southward before the blast.
Our tent was among the trees not far from the river.
My husband took me to the bank to look for a moment
at what we had escaped. The wind was sweeping
down from the north in a perfect hurricane. The
water was filled with masses of snow and ice, dancing
along upon the torrent, over which were hurrying thou-
sands of wild-fowl, making the woods resound to their
deafening clamor.
Had we been one hour later, we could not possibly
have crossed the stream, and there seems to have
been nothing for us but to have remained and starved
RELIEF. 175
in the wilderness. Could we be sufficiently grateful
to that kind Providence that had brought us safely
through such dangers?
The men had cut down an immense tree, and built
a fire against it, but the wind shifted so continually
that every five minutes the tent would become com-
pletely filled with smoke, so that I was driven into the
open air for breath. Then I would seat myself on
one end of the huge log, as near the fire as possible,
for it was dismally cold, but the wind seemed actu-
ated by a kind of caprice, for in whatever direction I
took my seat, just that way came the smoke and hot
ashes, puffing in my face until I was nearly blinded.
Neither veil nor silk handkerchief afforded an effectual
protection, and I was glad when the arrival of our
huntsmen, with a quantity of* ducks, gave me an op-
portunity of diverting my thoughts from my own suf-
ferings, by. aiding the men to pick them and get them
ready for our meal.
We borrowed a kettle from our Indian friends. It
was not remarkably clean ; but we heated a little water
in it, and prairie-hay 'd it out, before consigning our
birds to it, and with a bowl of Indian potatoes, a pre-
sent from our kind neighbors, we soon had an excel-
lent soup.
What with the cold, the smoke, and the driving
ashes and cinders, this was the most uncomfortable
afternoon I had yet passed, and I was glad when night
176 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
came, and I could creep into the tent and cover my-
self up in the blankets, out of the way of all three of
these evils.
The storm raged with tenfold violence during the
night. We were continually startled by the crashing
of the falling trees around us, and who could tell but that
the next would be upon us ? Spite of our fatigue, we
passed an almost sleepless night. When we arose in.
the morning, we were made fully alive to the perils by
which we had been surrounded. At least fifty trees,
the giants of the forest, lay prostrate within view of
the tent.
When we had taken our scanty breakfast, and were
mounted and ready for departure, it was with difficulty
we could thread our way, so completely was it ob-
structed by the fallen trunks.
Our Indian guide had joined us at an early hour,
and after conducting us carefully out of the wood, and
pointing out to us numerous bee-trees,* for which he
said that grove was famous, he set off at a long trot,
and about nine o'clock brought us to Piches\ a log-
cabin on a rising ground, looking off over the broad
prairie to the east. We had hoped to get some re-
freshment here, Ficrie* being an old acquaintance of
some of the party ; but alas ! the master was from home.
* The honey-bee is not known in the perfectly wild countries of
North America. It is ever the pioneer of civilization, and the In-
dians call it " the white man's bird."
BELIEF. 177
We found his cabin occupied by Indians and travellers
the latter few, the former numerous.
There was no temptation to a halt, except that of
warming ourselves at a bright fire that was burning in
the clay chimney. A man in Quaker costume stepped
forward to answer our inquiries, and offered to become
our escort to Chicago, to which place he was bound
so we dismissed our Indian friend, with a satisfactory
remuneration for all the trouble he had so kindly taken
for us.
A long reach of prairie extended from Piche's to the
Du Page, between the two forks of which, Mr. Dog-
herty, our new acquaintance, told us we should find the
dwelling of a Mr. Hawley, who would give us a com-
fortable dinner.
The weather was intensely cold. The 'wind, sweep-
ing over the wide prairie with nothing to break its force,
chilled our very hearts. I beat my feet against the sad-
dle to restore the circulation, when they became be-
numbed with the cold, until they became so bruised I
could beat them no longer. Not a house or wigwam,
not even a clump of trees as a shelter, offered itself for
many a weary mile. At length we reached the west
fork of the Du Page. It was frozen, but not suffi-
ciently so to bear the horses. Our only resource was
to cut a way for them through the ice. It was a work
of time, for' the ice had frozen to several inches in
thickness, during the last bitter night. Plante went
8*
178 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
first with, an axe, and cut as far as he could reach,
then mounted one of the hardy little ponies, and with
some difficulty broke the ice before him, until he had
opened a passage to the opposite shore.
How the poor animals shivered as they were reined in
among the floating ice ! And we, who sat waiting in
the piercing wind, were not much better. Probably
Brunet was of the same opinion ; for with his usual
perversity, he plunged in immediately after Plante, and
stood shaking and quaking behind him, every now
and then looking around him, as much as to say, " I've
got ahead of you, this time !" We were all across at
last, and spurred on our horses, until we reached Haw-
ley's* a large, commodious dwelling, near the east
fork of the river.
The good woman welcomed us kindly, and soon
made us warm and comfortable. We felt as if we were
in a civilized land once more. She proceeded immedi-
ately to prepare dinner for us ; and we watched her
with eager eyes, as she took down a huge ham from the
rafters, out of which she cut innumerable slices, then
broke any quantity of fine fresh eggs into a pan, in
readiness for frying then mixed a johnny-cake, and
placed it against a board in front of the fire to bake.
It seemed to me that even with the aid of this fine
* It was near this spot that the brother of Mr. Hawley, a Meth-
odist preacher, was killed by the Sauks, in 1832, after having been
tortured by them with the most wanton barbarity.
BELIEF. 179
bright fire, the dinner took an unconscionable time to
cook ; but cooked it was, at last, and truly might the
good woman stare at the travellers' appetites we had
brought with us. She did not know what short com-
mons we had been on for the last two days.
We found, upon inquiry, that we could, by pushing
on, reach Lawton's, on the Aux Plaines, that night we
should then be within twelve miles of Chicago. Of
course we made no unnecessary delay, but set off as
soon after dinner as possible.
' The crossing of the east fork of the Du Page was
more perilous than the former one had been. The ice
had become broken, either by the force of the current,
or by some equestrians having preceded us and cut
through it, so that when we reached the bank, the ice
was floating down in large cakes. The horses had to
make a rapid dart through the water, which was so
high, and rushing in such a torrent, that if I had not
been mounted on Jerry, the tallest horse in the caval-
cade, I must have got a terrible splashing. As it was,
I was well frightened, and grasped both bridle and
mane with the utmost tenacity. After this we tra-
velled on as rapidly as possible, in order to reach our
place of destination before dark.
Mr. Dogherty, a tall, bolt upright man, half
Quaker, half Methodist, did his best to entertain me,
by giving me a thorough schedule of his religious
opinions, with the reasons from Scripture upon which
180 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
they were based. He was a good deal of a perfection-
ist, and evidently looked upon himself with no small
satisfaction, as a living illustration of his favorite doc-
trine.
" St. John says," this was the style of his discourse,
"St. John says, 'He that is born of God, doth not
commit sin.' Now, if~L am born of God, I do not com-
mit sin."
I was too cold and too weary to argue the point, so
I let him have it all his own way. I believe he must
have thought me rather a dull companion ; but at
least, he gave me the credit of being a good listener.
It was almost dark when we reached Lawton's.
The Aux Plaines* was frozen, and the house was on
the other side. By loud shouting, we brought out a
man from the building, and he succeeded in cutting the
ice, and bringing a canoe over to us ; but not until it
had become difficult to distinguish objects in the dark-
ness.
A very comfortable house was Lawton's, after we
did reach it carpeted, and with a warm stove in
fact, quite in civilized style. Mr. Weeks, the man who
brought us across, was the major-domo, during the
temporary absence of Mr. Lawton.
Mrs. Lawton was a young woman, and not ill-look-
ing. She complained bitterly of the loneliness of her
* Kiviere Aux Plaines was the original French designation, now
changed to Desplaines, pronounced as in English.
' RELIEF. 181
condition, and having been " brought out there into
the woods ; which was a thing she had not expected,
when she came from the East." We did not ask her
with what expectations she had come to a wild, un-
settled country ; but we tried to comfort her with the
assurance that things would gro'w better in a few years.
She said, " she did not mean to wait for that. She
should go back to her family in the East, if Mr. Law-
ton did not invite some of her young friends to come
and stay with her, and make it agreeable."
We could hardly realize, on rising the following
morning, that only twelve miles of prairie intervened
between us and Chicago le Desire, as I could not but
name it.
We could look across the extended plain, and on its
farthest verge were visible two tall trees, which my
husband pointed out to me as the planting of his own
hand, when a boy. Already they had become so lofty
as to serve as landmarks, and they were constantly in
view as we travelled the beaten road. I was con-
tinually repeating to myself, " There live the friends I
am so longing to see ! There will terminate all our
trials and hardships !"
A Mr. Went worth joined us on the road, and of
him we inquired after the welfare of the family, from
whom we had, for a long time, received no intelli-
gence. When we reached Chicago, he took us to a
little tavern at the forks of the river. This portion
182 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
of the place was then called Wolf Point, from its hav-
ing been the residence of an Indian named " Moa-
way," or " the Wolf."
"Dear me," said the old landlady, at the little
tavern, " what dreadful cold weather you must have
had to travel in! Why, two days ago the river was
all open here, and now it's frozen hard enough for
folks to cross a-horseback!"
Notwithstanding this assurance, my husband did
not like to venture, so he determined to leave his
horses and proceed on foot, to the residence of his
mother and sister, a distance of about half a mile.
We sat out on our walk, which was first across the
ice, then down the northern bank of the river. As we
approached the house we were espied by Genevieve, a
half-breed servant of the family. She did not wait to
salute us, but flew into the house crying,
" Oh ! Madame Kinzie, who do you think has
come? Monsieur John and Madame John, all the
way from Fort Winnebago on foot !"
Soon we were in the arms of our dear, kind friends.
A messenger was dispatched to " the garrison " for the
remaining members of the family, and for that day at
least, I was the wonder and admiration of the whole
circle, "for the dangers I had seen."
CHAPTER XVII.
CHICAaO IN 1831.
FORT DEARBORN at that day consisted of the same
buildings as at present. They were, of course, in a
better state of preservation, though still considerably
dilapidated. They had been erected in 1816, under
the 'supervision of Captain Hezekiah Bradley, and
there was a story current that, such was his patriotic
regard for the interests of the government, he obliged
the soldiers to fashion wooden pins, instead of spikes
and nails, to fasten the timbers of the buildings, and
that he even called on the junior officers to aid in their
construction along with the soldiers, whose business it
was. If this were true, the captain must have labored
under the delusion (excusable, in one who had lived
long on the frontier) that government would thank its
servants for any excess of economical zeal.
The fort was inclosed by high pickets, with bastions
at the alternate angles. Large gates opened to the
north and south, and there were small portions here
and there for the accommodation of the inmates. The
bank of the river which stretches to the west, now
covered by the light-house buildings, and inclosed by
(183)
184: THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH -WEST.
docks, was then occupied by the root-houses of the
garrison. Beyond the parade-ground which extended
south of the pickets, were the company gardens, well
filled with currant-bushes and young fruit-trees.
The fort stood at what might naturally be supposed
to be the mouth of the river, yet it was not so, for in
those days the latter took a turn, sweeping round the
promontory on which the fort was built, towards the
south, and joined the lake about half a mile below ;
so that these buildings, in fact, stood on the right bank
of the river, the left being formed by a long spit of
land extending from the northern shore, of which it
formed a part. After the cutting through of this
portion of the left bank in 1833 by the United States
Engineers employed to construct a harbor at this
point, and the throwing out of the piers, the water
overflowed this long tongue of land, and continually
encroaching on the southern bank, robbed it of many
valuable acres ; while, by the same action of the vast
body of the lake, an accretion was constantly taking
place on the north of the harbor.
The residence of Jean Baptiste Beaubien stood at
this period between the gardens and the river-bank,
and still further south was a rickety tenement, built
many years before by Mr. John -Dean, the sutler of
the post. A short time after the commencement of the
growth of Chicago, the foundations of this building
were undermined by the gradual encroachment of the
CHICAGO IN 1831. 185
lake, and it tumbled backward down the bank, where
it long lay, a melancholy spectacle.
On the northern bank of the river, directly facing
the fort, was the family mansion of my husband. It
was along, low building, with a piazza extending along
its front, a range of four or five rooms. A broad
green space was inclosed between it and the river, and
shaded by a row of Lombardy poplars. Two immense
cotton-wood trees stood in the rear of the building, one
of which still remains as an ancient landmark. A
fine, well-cultivated garden extended to the north of
the dwelling, and surrounding it were various build-
ings appertaining to the establishment dairy, bake-
house, lodging-house for the Erenchmen, and stables.
A vast range of sand-hills, covered with stunted
cedars, pines, and dwarf-willow trees, intervened be-
tween the house and the lake, which was, at this time,
not more than thirty rods distant:
Proceeding from this point, along the northern bank
of the river, we came first to the Agency House,
" Cobweb Castle," as it had been denominated while
long the residence of a bachelor, and the sobriquet
adhered to it ever after. It stood at what is now the
south-west corner of "Wolcott and 1ST. Water streets.
Many will still remember it, a substantial, compact
little building of logs hewed and squared, with a
centre, two wings, and, strictly speaking, two tails,
since, when there was found no more room for addi-
186 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOliTH-WEST.
tions at the sides, they were placed in the rear, where-
on a vacant spot could be found.
These appendages did not mar the symmetry of the
whole, as viewed from the front, but when, in the
process of the town's improvement, a street was mali-
ciously opened directly in the rear of the building, the
whole establishment, with its comical little adjuncts,
was a constant source of amusement to the passers-by.
No matter. There were pleasant, happy hours passed
under its odd-shaped roof, as many of Chicago's early
settlers can testify.
Around the Agency House were grouped a collec-
tion of log-buildings, the residences of the different
persons in the employ of Government, appertaining to
that establishment blacksmith, striker, and laborers.
These were for the most part Canadians or half-breeds,
with occasionally a stray Yankee, to set all things
going by his activity ^and enterprise.
There was still another house on the north side of
the river, built by a former resident of the name of
Miller, but he had removed to " Kiviere du Chemin,"
or Trail Creek, which about this time began to be
called "Michigan City."* This house, which stood
near the forks of the river, was at this time vacant.
* I can now recall a petition that was circulated at the garrison
about this period, for " building a brigg over Michigan City." By
altering the orthography, it was found to mean" not the stupendous
undertaking it would seem to imply, but simply " building a bridge
CHICAGO IN 1831. 187
There was no house on the southern bank of the
river, between the fort and " The Point," as the forks of
the river were then called. The land was a low wet
prairie, scarcely affording good walking in the dryest
summer weather, while at other seasons it was abso-
lutely impassable. A muddy streamlet, or as it is
called in this country, a slew* after winding around
from about the present site of the Tremont House, fell
into the river at the foot of State street, f
At the point, on the south side, stood a house just
completed by Mark Beaubien, sen. It was a preten-
tious white two-story building, with bright blue
wooden shutters, the admiration of all the little circle
at "Wolf Point. Here a canoe ferry was kept to trans-
port people across the south branch of the river.
Facing down the river from the west was, first a
small tavern kept by Mr. Wentworth, familiarly
known as "Old Geese," not from any want of shrewd-
ness on his part, but in compliment to one of his own
over at Michigan City." An accommodation much needed by
travellers at that day.
* The proper orthography of this word is undoubtedly slough, as
it invariably indicates something like that which Christian fell into
in flying from the City of Destruction. I spell it, however, as it is
pronounced.
f A gentleman who visited Chicago at that day, thus speaks of
it : "I passed over the ground from the fort to the point, on horse-
back. I was up to my stirrups hi water the whole distance. I
would not have given sixpence an acre for the whole of it."
188 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
cant expressions. Near him were two or three log-
cabins occupied by Eobinson, the Pottowattamie chief,
and some of his wife's connexions. Billy Caldwell,
the Sau-ga-nash, too, resided here occasionally, with
his wife, who was a daughter of ISTee-scot-nee-meg, one
of the most famous chiefs of the nation. A little
remote from these residences was a small square log
building, originally designed for a school-house, but
occasionally used as a place of worship whenever any
itinerant minister presented himself.
The family of Clybourn had, previous to this time,
established themselves near their present residence on
the North Branch they called their place New Vir-
ginia. Four miles up the South Branch was an old
building which was at that time an object of great
interest as having been the theatre of some stirring
events during the troubles of 1812.* It was denomi-
nated Lee's Place, or Hardscrabble. Here lived, at
this time, a settler named Heacock.
Owing to the badness of the roads a greater part of
the year, the usual mode of communication between
the fort and " The Point " was by a boat rowed up the
river, or by a canoe paddled by some skilful hand.
By the latter means, too, an intercourse was kept up
between the residents of the fort and the Agency
House. $ (k v4-
There were, at this time, two companies of soldiers
* See Narrative of the Massacre, p. 202.
CHICAGO IN 1831. 189
in the garrison, but of the officers one, Lieutenant Fur-
man, had died the autumn previous, and several of the
others were away on furlough. In the absence of
Major Fowle and Capt. Scott, the command devolved
on Lieut. .Hunter. Besides him, there were Lieuts.
Engle and Foster the latter unmarried. Dr. Finley,
the post surgeon, was also absent, and his place
was supplied by Dr. Harmon, a gentleman from
Yermont.
My husband's mother, two sisters, and brother
resided at the Agency House the family residence
near the lake being occupied by J. N. Bailey, the post-
master.
In the Dean House live d a Mr. and Mrs. Forbes, who
kept a school. Gholson Kercheval had a small
trading establishment in one of the log buildings at
" Wolf Point," and John S. C. Hogan superintended
the sutler's store in the garrison.
There was also a Mr. See lately come into the coun-
try, living at the Point, who sometimes held forth in
the little school-house on a Sunday, less to the edifica-
tion of his hearers than to the unmerciful slaughter of
the " King's English."
I think this enumeration comprises all the white
inhabitants of Chicago, at a period less than a quarter
of a century ago. To many who may read these
pages the foregoing particulars will, doubtless, appear
uninteresting. But to those who visit Chicago, and
190 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
still more, to those who come to make it their home, it
may be not without interest to look back to its first
beginnings ; to contemplate the almost magical change
which a few years have wrought ; and from the past to
augur the marvellous prosperity of the future.
The origin of the name Chicago is a subject of dis-
cussion, some of the Indians deriving it from the
fitch or polecat, others from the wild onion, with
which the woods formerly abounded; but all agree
that the place received its name from an old chief, who
was drowned in the stream in former times. That this
event, although so carefully preserved by tradition,
must have occurred in a very remote period, is evident
from an old French manuscript brought by Gen. Cass
from France.
In this paper, which purports to be a letter from M.
de Ligney, at Green Bay, to M. de Siette, among the
Illinois, dated as early as 1726, the place is designated
as " Chicagoux." This orthography is also found in
old family letters of the beginning of the present cen-
tury.
In giving the early history of Chicago, the Indians
say, with great simplicity, " the first white man who
settled here was a negro."
This was Jean Baptiste Point-au-Sable, a native of
St. Domingo, who, about the year 1796, found his way
CHICAGO IN 1831. 191
to this remote region, and commenced a life among the
Indians. There is usually a strong affection between
these two races, and Jean Baptiste imposed upon his
new friends by making them believe that he had been
a "great chief" among the whites. Perhaps he -was
disgusted at not being elected to a similar dignity by
the Pottowattamies, for he quitted this vicinity, and
finally terminated his days at Peoria, under the roof of
his friend " Glamorgan," another St. Domingo negro,
who had obtained large Spanish grants in St. Louis
and its environs, and who, at one time, was in the
enjoyment of an extensive landed estate.
Point-au-Sable had made some improvements at
Chicago, which were taken possession of by a French-
man named Le Mai, who commenced trading with the
Indians. After a few years Le Mai's establishment
was purchased by John Kinzie, Esq., who at that tune
resided at Bertrand, or Pare aux Vaches, as it was then
called, near Niles, in Michigan. As this gentleman
was, for nearly twenty years, with the exception of the
military, the only white inhabitant of Northern Illinois,
some particulars of his early life may not be uninter-
esting.
He was born in Quebec (L. C.) in 1763. His mother
had been previously married to a gentleman of the
name of Haliburton. The only daughter of this mar-
riage was the mother of Gen. Fleming and Nicholas
Low, Esq., of New York. She is described as a lady of
192 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
remarkable beauty and accomplishments. Mr. Kinzie
was the only child of the second marriage. His father
died in his infancy, and his mother married a third
time a Mr. Forsyth, after which they removed to the
city of New York.
At the age of ten or eleven years he was placed at
school with two of his half-brothers at Williamsburg,
L. I. A negro servant was sent from the city every
Saturday, to bring the children home, to remain until
the following Monday morning. Upon one occasion,
when the messenger arrived at the school he found all
things in commotion. Johnny Kinzie was missing!
Search was made in all directions ; every place was
ransacked. It was all in vain; no Johnny Kinzie
could be found.
The heavy tidings were carried home to his mother.
By some it was supposed the lad was drowned ; by
others that he had strayed away, and would return.
Weeks passed by, and months, and he was at length
given up and mourned as lost. In the meantime the
boy was fulfilling a determination he had long formed,
to visit his native city of Quebec, and make his way
in life for himself.
He had by some means succeeded in crossing from
Williamsburg to the city of New York, and finding
at one of the docks on the North Eiver a sloop bound
for Albany, he took passage on board of her. While
on his way up the river, he was noticed by a gentle-
CHICAGO IN 1831. 193
man, who, taking an interest in the little lonely pas-
senger, questioned him about his business.
"He was going to Quebec, where he had some
friends."
" Had he the means to carry him there ?"
" Not much, but he thought he could get along."
It happened, fortunately, that the gentleman himself
was going to Quebec. He took the boy under his care,
paid his expenses the whole distance, and finally parted
with him in the streets of the city, where he was, in
truth, a stranger.
He wandered about for a time, looking into various
"stores" and workshops. At length, on entering the
shop of a silversmith, he was satisfied with the expres-
sion he read in the countenance of the master, and he
inquired if he wanted an apprentice.
" What, you, my little fellow ! What can you do ?"
" Anything you can teach me."
" Well, we will make a trial and see."
The trial was satisfactory. He remained in the
family of his kind friend for more than three years,
when his parents, who, in removing to Detroit, had ne-
cessarily returned to Canada, discovered his place of
abode, and he was restored to them.
There were five younger half-brothers of the name
of Forsyth. In the old family Bible, we find the fol-
lowing touching record of an event that occurred after
the family had removed to Detroit.
9
194: THE EARLY DAY IK THE NORTH-AVEST.
"George Forsyth was lost in the woods 6tli August,
1775, when Henry Hays and Mark Stirling ran away
and left him. The remains of Greorge Forsyth were
found by an Indian the 2d of October, 1776, close by
the Prairie Eonde."
It seems a singular fatality that the unhappy mother
should have been twice called to suffer a similar afflic-
tion the loss of a child in a manner worse than death,
inasmuch as it left room for all the horrors that imagi-
nation can suggest. The particulars of the loss of this
little brother were these. As he came from school one
evening, he met the colored servant boy on horseback,
going to the common for the cows. The school-house
stood quite near the old fort, and all beyond that, all
that now lies west of Fort street, was a wild, unculti-
vated tract called " The Common." The child begged
of the servant to take him up and give him a ride, but
the other refused, bidding him return home at once.
He was accompanied by two other boys, somewhat
older, and together they followed the negro for some
distance, hoping to prevail upon him to give them a
ride. As it grew dark, the two older boys turned
back, but the other kept on. "When the negro returned
he had not again seen the child, nor were any tidings
ever received of him, notwithstanding the diligent
search made by the whole little community, until, as
related in the record, his remains were found the fol-
lowing year by an Indian. There was nothing to iden-
CHICAGO IN 1831. 195
' tify them, except the auburn curls of his hair, and the
little boots he had worn. He must have perished very
shortly after having lost his way, for the Prairie Ronde
was too near the settlement to have prevented his hear-
ing the calls and sounding horns of those in search of
him.
Mr. Kinzie's enterprising and adventurous disposition
led him, as he grew older, to live much on the frontier.
He early entered into the Indian trade, and had estab-
lishments at Sandusky and Maumee, and afterwards
pushed further west, about the year 1800, to St. Joseph's.
In this year he married Mrs. McKillip, the widow of a
British officer, and in 1804 came to make his home at
Chicago. It was in this year that the first fort was
built.
By degrees more remote trading-posts were estab-
lished by him, all contributing to the parent one
at Chicago ; at Milwaukie with the Meenomonees ;
at Rock River with the Winnebagoes and the Pot-
towattamies ; on the Illinois River and Kankakee with
the Pottowattamies of the Prairies, and with the Kick-
apoos in what was called il Le Large" being the wide-
ly extended district afterwards erected into Sangamon
County.
Bach trading-post had its superintendent, and its
complement of engage's its train of pack-horses and
its equipment of boats and canoes. From most of the
stations the " furs and peltries" were brought to Chicago
196 THE EARLY DAT IN THE NORTH-WEST.
on pack-horses, and the goods necessary for the trade
were transported in return by the same method.
The vessels which came in the spring and fall (sel-
dom more than two or three annually), to bring the
supplies and goods for the trade, took the furs that
were already collected to Mackinac, the depot of the
South-West and American Fur Companies. At other
seasons they were sent to that place in boats, coasting
around the lake.
Of the Canadian voyageurs or engage's, a race that
has now so nearly passed away, some notice may very
properly here be given.
They were unlike any other class of men. Like the
poet, they seemed born to their vocation. Sturdy, en-
during, ingenious and light-hearted, they possessed a
spirit capable of adapting itself to any emergency.
No difficulties baffled, no hardships discouraged them ;
while their affectionate nature led them to form attach-
ments of the warmest character to their "bourgeois,"
or master, as well as to the native inhabitants, among
whom their engagements carried them.
Montreal, or according to their own pronunciation,
Marrialle, was their depot. It was at that place that
the agents commissioned to make up the quota for the
different companies and traders found the material for
their selections.
CHICAGO IN 1831. 197
The terms of engagement were usually from four to
six hundred livres (ancient Quebec currency) per an-
num as wages, with rations of one quart of lyed corn,
and two ounces of tallow per diem, or " its equivalent
in whatever sort of food is to be found in the Indian
country." Instances have been known of their sub-
mitting cheerfully to fare upon fresh fish and maple
sugar for a whole winter, when cut off from other
supplies.
It was a common saying, " Keep an engage to his
corn and tallow, he will serve you well give him
pork and bread, and he soon gets beyond your man-
agement." They regard the terms of their engage-
ment as binding to the letter. An old trader, M.
Berthelet, engaged a crew at Montreal. The terms of
agreement were, that they should eat when their
bourgeois did, and what he did. It was a piece of fan
on the part of the old gentleman, but the simple Ca-
nadians believed it to be a signal instance of good luck
that had provided them such luxurious prospects. The
bourgeois stuffed his pockets with crackers, and when
sure of being quite unobserved, would slily eat one.
Pipe after pipe passed the men grew hungry, but ob-
serving that there were no preparations of a meal for
the bourgeois, they bore their fast without complaining.
At length the matter became too serious they could
stand it no longer. In their distress they begged off
from the bargain, and gladly compounded to take the
198 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOBTH-WEST.
customary rations, instead of the dainty fare they had
been promising themselves with their master.
On arriving at Mackinac, which was the entrepot of
the Fur Trade, a small proportion of the voyageur's
wages was advanced him, to furnish his winter's outfit,
his pipes and tobacco, his needles and thread, some
pieces of bright-colored ribbons, and red and yellow
gartering (quality binding), with which to purchase
their little necessaries from the Indians. To these, if
his destination were Lake Superior, or a post far to the
north, where such articles could not be readily ob-
tained, were added one or two smoked deer-skins for
moccasins.
Thus equipped, he entered upon his three years'
service, to toil by day, and laugh, joke, sing, and tell
stories when the evening hour brought rest and
liberty.
There was not wanting here and there an instance
of obstinate adherence to the exact letter of the agree-
ment in regard to the nature of employment, although,
as a general thing, the engage" held himself ready to
fulfil the behests of his bourgeois, as faithfully as ever
did vassal those of his chief.
A story is told of M. St. Jean, a trader on the Upper
Mississippi, who upon a certain occasion ordered one
of his Frenchmen to accompany a party to the forest
to chop wood. The man refused. "He was not
hired," he said, " to chop wood."
CHICAGO IN 1831. 199
"Ah! for what then were you hired?"
" To steer a boat."
" Very well ; steer a boat, then, since you prefer it."
It was mid- winter. The recusant was marched to
the river-side, and placed in the stern of the boat, which
lay fastened in the ice.
After serving a couple of hours at his legitimate
employment, with the thermometer below zero, he was
quite content to take his place with the chopping-party,
and never again thought it good policy to choose work
for himself.
There is an aristocracy in the voyageur service
which is quite amusing. The engagement is usually
made for three years. The engagd of the first year,
who is called a " mangeur-de-lard" or pork-eater, is
looked down upon with the most sovereign contempt
by an "hivernant" or one who has already passed a
winter in the country. He will not only not associate
with him, but if invited by him to join him in a
friendly glass, he will make some excuse for declining.
The most inveterate drunkard, while tortered by a
longing to partake his favorite indulgence, will yet
never suffer himself to be enticed into an infringement
of this custom.
After the first winter, the mangeur-de-lard rises from
his freshman class, and takes his place where he can in
turn lord it over all new-comers.
Another peculiarity of the class is their fancy for
200 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
transforming the names of their bourgeois into some-
thing funny, which resembles it in sound. Thus
Kinzie would be called by one " Quinze nez " (fifteen
noses), by another " Singe" (monkeyfied). Mr. Ker-
cheval was denominated Mons. Court-cheval (short
horse), the Judge of Probate, " k Juge Trop-Ute" (too
foolish), <&c. &c. The following is an instance in point.
Mr. Shaw, one of the agents of the Northwest Fur
Company, had passed many years on the frontier, and
was by the voyageurs called Monsieur Le Chat.* On
quitting the Indian country he married a Canadian
lady and became the father of several children. Some
years after his return to Canada, his old foreman, named
Louis la Liberte", went to Montreal to spend the winter.
He had heard of his old bourgeois' marriage, and was
anxious to see him.
Mr. Shaw was walking in the Champ de Mars with
a couple of officers when La Liberte* espied him. He
immediately ran up, and seizing him by both hands,
accosted him
"Ah! mon cher Mons. le Chat; comment vous por-
tez vous ?"
" Tres bien, Louizon."
" Et comment se porte Madame la Chatte f" (How
is the mother cat ?)
"Bien, bien, Louizon; elle est tres bien." (She is
.very well.)
* Mr. Cat.
CHICAGO IN 1831. 201
"JEt tons les petits Chatonsf (And all the kittens.)
This was too much for Mr. Shaw. He answered
shortly that the kittens were all well, and bidding him
call at his house, turned away with his military friends,
leaving poor Louizon quite astonished at the abrupt-
ness of his departure.
Cut off, in the manner described, from the world at
large, with no society but the military, thus lived the
family of Mr. Kinzie, in great contentment, and in the
enjoyment of all the comforts, together with most of
the luxuries of life.
The Indians reciprocated the friendship that was
shown them, and formed for them an attachment of no
ordinary strength, as was manifested during the scenes
of the year 1812, eight years after Mr. Kinzie came to
live among them.
Some of the most prominent events of that year are
recorded in the following Narrative,
CHAPTER XVIII.
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO.*
IT was the evening of the 7th April, 1812. The
children of Mr. Kinzie were dancing before the fire to
the music of their father's violin. The tea-table was
spread, and they were awaiting the return of their
mother, who had gone to visit a sick neighbor about a
quarter of a mile up the river.
Suddenly their sports were interrupted. The door
was thrown open, and Mrs. Kinzie rushed in, pale
with terror and scarcely able to articulate, "The In-
dians! the Indians !"
"The Indians? What? Where?" eagerly demand-
ed they all.
"Up at Lee's Place, killing and scalping!"
With difficulty Mrs. Kinzie composed herself suffi-
ciently to give the information, " That while she was
up at Burns', a man and a boy were seen running
* This Narrative is substantially the same as that published in
pamphlet form, in 1836. It was transferred with little variation to
Brown's " History of Illinois," and to a work called " Western An-
nals." It was likewise made, by Major Richardson, the basis of
his two tales, " Hardscrabble," and " Wau-nan-gee."
(202)
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 203
down with all speed on the opposite side of the river ;
that they had called across to give notice to Burns'
family to save themselves, for the Indians were at Lee's
Place, from which they had just made their escape.
Having given this terrifying news, they had made all
speed for the fort, which was on the same side of the
river that they then were.
All was now consternation and dismay. The family
were hurried into two old pirogues, that were moored
near the house, and paddled with all possible haste
across the river to take refuge in the fort.
All that the man and boy who had made their
escape were able to tell, was soon known ; but in order
to render their story more intelligible, it is necessary
to describe the scene of action.
Lee's Place, since known by the name of Hardscrab
ble, was a farm intersected by the Chicago Eiver, about
four miles from its mouth. The farm-house stood on
the western bank of the south branch of this river.
On the same side of the main stream, but quite near
its junction with Lake Michigan, stood (as has already
been described) the dwelling-house and trading estab-
lishment of Mr. Kinzie.
The fort was situated on the southern bank, directly
opposite this mansion the river, and a few rods of
sloping green turf on either side, being all that inter-
vened between them.
lr
The fort was differently constructed from the one
204 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
erected on the same site in 1816. It had two block-
houses on the southern side, and on the northern a
sally- port, or subterranean passage from the parade
ground to the river. This was designed either to facili-
tate escape, in case of an emergency, or as a means of
supplying the garrison with water during a siege.
The officers in the fort at this period were Capt.
Heald, the commanding officer, Lieut. Helm, the son-
in-law of Mr. Kinzie, and Ensign Konan the two last
were very young men and the surgeon, Dr. Yan
Voorhees.
The command numbered about seventy-five men ;
very few of whom were effective.
A constant and friendly intercourse had been main-
tained between these troops and the Indians. It is
true that the principal men of the Pottowattamie
nation, like those of most other tribes, went yearly to
Fort Maiden, in Canada, to receive a large amount of
presents, with which the British Government had, for
many years, been in the habit of purchasing their alli-
ance ; and it was well known that many of the Potto-
wattamies, as well as Winnebagoes, had been engaged
with the Ottawas and Shawnees at the battle of Tippe-
canoe, the preceding autumn; yet, as the principal
chiefs of all the bands in the neighborhood appeared to
be on the most amicable terms with the Americans, no
interruption of their harmony was at any time antici-
cipated.
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 205
After the 15th August, however, many circumstances
were recollected that might have opened the eyes of
the whites, had they not been lulled in a fatal security.
One instance in particular may be mentioned.
In the spring preceding the destruction of the fort,
two Indians of the Calumet band came to the fort on a
visit to the Commanding Officer. As they passed
through the quarters, they saw Mrs. Heald and Mrs.
Helm playing at battledoor.
Turning to the interpreter, one of them, Nau-non-
gee, remarked : " The white chiefs' wives are amusing
themselves very much ; it will not be long before they
are hoeing in our cornfields!"
This was considered at the tune an idle threat, or at
most, an ebullition of jealous feeling at the contrast
between the situation of their own women and that of
the " white chiefs' wives." Some months after, how
bitterly was it remembered I
The farm at Lee's Place was occupied by a Mr.
White, and three persons employed by him in the care
of the farm.
In the afternoon of the day on which our narrative
commences, a party of ten or twelve Indians, dressed
and painted, arrived at the house, and according to the
custom among savages, entered and seated themselves
without ceremony.
206 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
Something in their appearance and manner excited
the suspicions of one of the family, a Frenchman, who
remarked, "I do not like the appearance of these
Indians they are none of our folks. I know by
their dress and paint that they are not Pottowatta-
mies."
Another of the family, a discharged soldier, then
said to the "boy who was present, "If that is the case,
we had better get away from them if we can. Say
nothing ; but do as you see me do."
As the afternoon was far advanced, the soldier
walked leisurely towards the canoes, of which there
were two tied near the bank. Some of the Indians in-
quired where he was going. He pointed to the cattle
which were standing among the haystacks on the oppo-
site bank; and made signs that they must go and fod-
der them, and then they should return and get their
supper.
He got into one canoe, and the boy into the other.
The stream was narrow, and they were soon across.
When they had gained the opposite side, they pulled
some hay for the cattle made a show of collecting
them and when they had gradually made a circuit,
so that their movements were concealed by the hay-
stacks, they took to the woods, which were close at
hand, and made for the fort.
They had run about a quarter of a mile, when they
heard the discharge of two guns successively, which
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 207
they supposed to have been levelled at the companions
they had left behind.
They stopped not nor stayed until they arrived op-
posite Burn's,* where, as before related, they called
across to advertise the family of their danger, and then
hastened on to the fort.
It now occurred 'to those who had secured their own
safety, that the family of Burns was at this moment
exposed to the most imminent peril. The question
was, who would hazard his own life to bring them to
a place of safety? A gallant young officer, Ensign
Ronan, volunteered, with a party of five or six soldiers,
to go to their rescue.
They ascended the "river in a scow, took the mother,
with her infant of scarcely a day old, upon her bed to
the boat, in which they carefully conveyed her and
the other members of the family to the fort.
A party of soldiers, consisting of a corporal and six
men, had that afternoon obtained leave to go up the
river to fish.
They had not returned when the fugitives from Lee's
Place arrived at the fort, and fearing that they might
er counter the Indians, the commanding officer ordered
a cannon to be fired, to warn them of danger.
They were at the time about two miles above Lee's
Place. Hearing the signal, they took the hint, put out
* Burns' house stood Bear the spot where the Agency building,
or " Cobweb Castle," was afterwards erected.
208 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
their torches (for it was now night), and dropped down
the river toward the garrison, as silently as possible.
It will be remembered that the, unsettled state of the
country since the battle of Tippecanoe, the preceding
November, had rendered every man vigilant, and the
slightest alarm was an admonition to beware of "the
Indians."
When the fishing-party reached Lee's Place, it was
proposed to stop and warn the inmates to be upon
their guard, as the signal from the fort indicated dan-
ger of some kind. All was still as death around the
house. They groped their way along, and as the cor-
poral jumped over the small enclosure, he placed his
hand upon the dead body of a man. By the sense of
touch he soon ascertained that the head was without a
scalp, and otherwise mutilated. The faithful dog of
the murdered man stood guarding the lifeless remains
of his master.
The tale was now told. They retreated to their
canoes and reached the fort unmolested about eleven
o'clock at night. The next morning a party of the
citizens and soldiers volunteered to go to Lee's Place,
to learn further the fate of its occupants. The body
of Mr. White was found pierced by two balls, and
with eleven stabs in the breast. The Frenchman, as
already described, lay dead, with his dog still beside
him. Their bodies were brought to the fort and buried
in its immediate vicinity.
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 200
It was subsequently ascertained, from traders out in
the Indian country, that the perpetrators of this bloody
deed were a party of Winnebagoes, who had come into
this neighbourhood to " take some white scalps." Their
plan had been, to proceed down the river from Lee's
Place, and kill every white man without the walls of
the fort. Hearing, however, the report of the cannon,
and not knowing what it portended, they thought it
best to remain satisfied with this one exploit, and forth-
with retreated to their homes on Eock Eiver.
The inhabitants outside the fort, consisting of a few
discharged soldiers and some families of half-breeds,
now entrenched themselves in the Agency House. This
stood on the esplanade west of the fort, between the
pickets and the river, and distant about twenty rods
from the former.*
It was an old-fashioned log-building, with a hall
running through the centre, and one large room on
each side. Piazzas extended the whole length of the
building in front and rear. These were planked up,
for greater security, port-holes were cut, and sentinels
posted at night.
As the enemy were believed to be lurking still in
the neighborhood, or, emboldened by former success,
likely to return at any moment, an order was issued
prohibiting any soldier or citizen from leaving the
vicinity of the garrison without a guard.
* The present site of the lighthouse.
210 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
One night a sergeant and private, who were out on
a patrol, came suddenly upon a party of Indians in the
pasture adjoining the esplanade. The sergeant fired
his piece, and both retreated toward the fort. Before
they could reach it, an Indian threw his tomahawk,
which missed the sergeant and struck a wagon stand-
ing near. The sentinel from the block-house immedi-
ately fired, and with effect, while the men got safely
in. The next morning it was ascertained, from traces
of blood to a considerable distance into the prairie, and
from the appearance of a body having been laid among
the long grass, that some execution had been done.
On another occasion the enemy entered the esplanade
to steal horses. Not finding them in the stable, as
they had expected, they made themselves amends for
their disappointment by stabbing all the sheep in the
stable, and then letting them loose. The poor animals
flocked towards the fort. This gave the alarm 'the
garrison was aroused parties were sent out, but the
marauders escaped unmolested.
The inmates of the fort experienced no further alarm
for many weeks.
On the afternoon of the 7th August, Winnemeg, or
Catfish, a Pottowattamie chief, arrived at the post,
bringing despatches from Gen. Hull. These announced
the declaration of war between the United States and
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 211
Great Britain, and that Gen. Hull, at the head of the
North- Western army, had arrived at Detroit; also,
that the island of Mackinac had fallen into the hands
of the British.
The orders to Captain Heald were, " to evacuate the
fort, if practicable, and in that event, to distribute all
the United States' property contained in the fort, and
in the United States' factory or agency, among the In-
dians in the neighborhood."
After having delivered his despatches, Winnemeg
requested a private interview with Mr. Kinzie, who
had taken up his residence in the fort. He stated to
Mr. K. that he was acquainted with the purport of the
communications he had brought, and begged him to
ascertain if it were the intention of Captain Heald
to evacuate the post. He advised strongly against
such a step, inasmuch as the garrison was well
supplied with ammunition, and with provisions for
six months. It would, therefore, be far better, he
thought, to remain until a reinforcement could be
sent to their assistance. If, however, Captain Heald
should decide upon leaving the post, it should by all
means be done immediately. The Pottowattamies,
through whose country they must pass, being ignorant
of the object of Winnemeg's mission, a forced march
might be made, before those who were hostile in their
feelings were prepared to interrupt them.
Of this advice, so earnestly given, Captain Heald was
212 THE EARLY* DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
immediately informed. He replied that it was his in-
tention to evacuate the post, but that, inasmuch as he
had received orders to distribute the United States'
property, he should not feel justified in leaving it un-
til he had collected the Indians of the neighborhood,
and made an equitable division among them.
Winnemeg then suggested the expediency of march-
ing out, and leaving all things standing possibly
while the Indians were engaged in the partition of
the spoils, the troops might effect their retreat unmo-
lested. This advice was strongly seconded by Mr.
Kinzie, but did not meet the approbation of the Com-
manding Officer.
The order for evacuating the post was read next
morning upon parade. It is difficult to understand
why Captain Heald, in such an emergency, omitted the
usual form of calling a council of war with his officers.
It can only be accounted for by the fact of a want of
harmonious feeling between himself and one of his ju-
nior officers Ensign Eonan, a high-spirited and some-
what overbearing, but brave and generous young man.
In the course of the day, finding that no council was
called, the officers waited on Captain Heald to be in-
formed what course he intended to pursue. When
they learned his intentions, they remonstrated with
him, on the following grounds :
First It was highly improbable that the command
would be permitted to pass through the country in
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 213
safety to Fort Wayne. For although it had been said
that some of the chiefs had opposed an attack upon the
fort, planned the preceding autumn, yet it was well
known that they had been actuated in that matter by
motives of private regard to one family, and not to any
general friendly feeling toward the Americans; and
that, at any rate, it was hardly to be expected that
these few individuals would be able to control the
whole tribe, who were thirsting for blood.
In the next place their march must necessarily be
slow, as their movements must be accommodated to
the helplessness of the women and children, of whom
there were a number with the detachment. That of
their small force, some of the soldiers were superannu-
ated, others invalid ; therefore, since the course to be
pursued was left discretional, their unanimous advice
was, to remain where they were, and fortify themselves
as strongly as possible. Succors from the other side
of the peninsula might arrive before they could be at-
tacked by the British from Mackinac, and even should
there not, it were far better to fall into the hands of the
latter than to become the victims of the savages.
Captain Heald argued in reply, "that a special order
had been issued by the war department, that no post
should be surrendered without battle having been
given, and his force was totally inadequate to an en-
gagement with the Indians. That he should unques-
tionably be censured for remaining, when there ap-
214 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
peared a prospect of a safe march through ; and that,
upon the whole, he deemed it expedient to assemble
the Indians, distribute the property among them, and
then ask of them an escort to Fort Wayne, with the
promise of a considerable reward upon their safe ar-
rival adding, that he had full confidence in the friendly
professions of the IncUans, from whom, as well as from
the soldiers, the capture of Mackinac had been kept a
profound secret.
From this time the officers held themselves aloof,
and spoke but little upon the subject, though they con-
sidered the project of Captain Heald little short of mad-
ness. The dissatisfaction among the soldiers hourly in-
creased, until it reached a high pitch of insubordination.
Upon one occasion, as Captain Heald was conversing
with Mr. Kinzie upon the parade, he remarked, "I
could not remain, even if I thought it best, for I have
but a small store of provisions."
" Why, captain," said a soldier who stood near, for-
getting all etiquette in the excitement of the moment,
"you have cattle enough to last the troops six
months."
" But," replied Captain Heald, " I have no salt to
preserve it with."
" Then jerk* it," said the man, " as the Indians do
their venison."
* This is done by cutting the meat in thin slices, placing it upon
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 215
The Indians now, became daily more unruly. En-
tering the fort in defiance of the sentinels, they made
their way without ceremony into the officer's quarters.
On one occasion, an Indian took up a rifle and fired it
in the parlor of the Commanding Officer, as an ex-
pression of defiance. Some were of opinion that this
was intended among the young men as a signal for an
attack. The old chiefs passed backwards and for-
ward among the assembled groups, with the appear-
ance of the most lively agitation, while the squaws
rushed to and fro, in great excitement, and evidently
prepared for some fearful scene.
Any further manifestation of ill-feeling was, how-
ever, suppressed for the present, and Captain Heald,
strange as it may seem, continued to entertain a con-
viction of having created so amicable a disposition
among the Indians, as would insure the safety of the
command on their march to Fort Wayne.
Thus passed the time until the 12th August. The
feelings of the inmates of the fort during this time
may be better imagined than described. Each morn-
ing that dawned seemed to bring them nearer that
most appalling fate butchery by a savage foe and at
night they scarcely dared yield to slumber, lest they
should be aroused by the warwhoop and tomahawk.
Gloom and mistrust prevailed, and the want of una-
a scaffold, and making a fire under it, which dries it and smokes it
at the same time.
216 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
nimity among the officers, debarred them the consola-
tion they might have found in mutual sympathy and
encouragement.
The Indians being assembled from the neighbouring
villages, a council was held with them on the after-
noon of the 12th. Captain Heald only, attended on
the part of the military. He requested his officers to
accompany him, but they declined. They had been
secretly informed that it was the intention of the young
chiefs to fall upon the officers and massacre them while
in council, but they could not persuade Captain Heald
of the truth of their information. They waited there-
fore only until he had left the garrison, accompanied
by Mr. Kinzie, when they took command of the block-
houses which overlooked the esplanade on which the
council was held, opened the port-holes, and pointed
the cannon so as to command the whole assembly. By
this means, probably, the lives of the whites who were
present in council were preserved.
In council, the Commanding Officer informed the In-
dians that it was his intention to distribute among them
the next day, not only the goods lodged in the United
States' Factory, but also the ammunition and provi-
sions, with which the garrison was well supplied. He
then requested of the Potto wattamies an escort to Fort
Wayne, promising them a liberal reward on arriving
there, in addition to the presents they were now about
to receive. "With many professions of friendship and
MASSACRE AT CHICAGO. 217
good- will, the savages assented to all lie proposed, and
promised all he required.
After the council, Mr. Kinzie, who understood well,
not only the Indian character, but the present tone of
feeling among them, had a long interview with Captain
Heald, in hopes of opening his eyes to the present
posture of affairs.
He reminded him that since the troubles with the
Indians upon the Wabash and its vicinity, there had
appeared a settled plan of hostilities toward the
whites, in consequence of which it had been the policy
of the Americans to withhold from them whatever
would enable them to carry on their warfare upon the
defenceless inhabitants of the frontier.
Mr. Kinzie recalled to Captain Heald how that he
had himself left home for Detroit the preceding autumn,
but, receiving when he had proceeded as far as De
Charme's* the intelligence of the battle of Tippecanoe,
he had immediately returned to Chicago, that he might
dispatch orders to his traders to furnish no ammuni-
tion to the Indians ; in consequence of which all they
had on hand was secreted, and such of the traders as
had not already started for their wintering-grounds
took neither powder nor shot with them.
Captain Heald was struck with the impolicy of fur-
nishing the enemy (for such they must now consider
their old neighbors) with arms against himself, and
* A trading establishment now Ypsilanti.
10
218 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST
determined to destroy all the ammunition except what
should be necessary for the use of his own troops.
On the 13th the goods, consisting of blankets, broad-
cloths, calicoes, paints, etc., were distributed, as stipu-
lated. The same evening the ammunition and liquor
were carried, part into the sally-port, and thrown into
a well which had been dug there to "supply the garri-
son with water in case of emergency ; the remainder
was transported as secretly as possible through the
northern gate, the heads of the barrels knocked in,
and the contents poured into the river.
The same fate was shared by a large quantity of
alcohol belonging to Mr. Kinzie, which had been
deposited in a warehouse near his residence opposite
the fort.
The Indians suspected what was going on, and crept,
serpent-like, as near the scene of action as possible,
but a vigilant watch was kept up, and no one was suf-
fered to approach but those engaged in the affair. All
the muskets not necessary for the command on the
march were broken up and thrown into the well,
together with the bags of shot, flints, gunscrews, and,
in short, everything relating to weapons of offence.
Some relief to the general feeling of despondency
was afforded by the arrival, on the 14th of August, ol
Captain Wells* with fifteen friendly Miamis.
* Captain Wells when a boy was stolen from his friends, the
family of Hon. Nathaniel Pope, in Kentucky. Although recovered
MASSACKE AT CHICAGO. 219
Of this brave man, who forms so conspicuous a
figure in our frontier annals, it is unnecessary here to
say more than that he had been residing from his
boyhood among the Indians, and consequently pos-
sessed a perfect knowledge of their character and
habits.
He had heard, at Fort Wayne, of the order for
evacuating the fort at Chicago, and knowing the hos-
tile determination of the Pottowattamies, he had made
a rapid march 'across the country, to prevent the ex-
posure of his relative, Captain B[eald, and his troops
to certain destruction.
But he came " all too late." When he reached the
post he found that the ammunition had been destroyed,
and the provisions given to the Indians. There was,
therefore, now no alternative, and every preparation
was made for the inarch of the troops on the following
morning.
On the afternoon of the same day, a second council
was held with the Indians. They expressed great
indignation at the destruction of the ammunition and
liquor.
Notwithstanding the precautions that had been taken
to preserve secresy, the noise of knocking in the heads
of the barrels had betrayed the operations of the pre-
by them, he preferred to return and live among his new friends.
He married a Miami woman, and became a chief of the nation.
He was the father of the late Mrs. Judge "Wolcott. of Maumee, 0.
220 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
ceding night; and, so great was the quantity of liquor
thrown into the river, that the taste of the water the
next morning was, as one expressed it, " strong grog."
Murmurs, and threats were everywhere heard among
the savages. It was evident that the first moment of
exposure would subject the troops to some manifesta-
tion of their disappointment and resentment.
Among the chiefs were several who, although they
shared the general hostile feeling of their tribe toward
the Americans, yet retained a personal 1 regard for the
troops at this post, and for the few white citizens of
the place. These chiefs exerted their utmost influence
to allay the revengeful feelings of the young men, and
to avert their sanguinary designs, but without effect.
On the evening succeeding the council, Black Par-
tridge, a conspicuous chief, entered the quarters of the
Commanding Officer.
" Father," said he, "I come to deliver up to you the
medal I wear. It was given me by the Americans,
and I have long worn it, in token of our mutual friend-
ship. But our young men are resolved to imbrue their
hands in the blood of the whites. I cannot restrain
them, and I will not wear a token of peace while I
am compelled to act as an enemy."
Had further evidence been wanting, this circum-
stance would sufficiently have proved to the devoted
band, the justice of their melancholy anticipations.
Nevertheless, they went steadily on with the necessary
MASSACRE* AT CHICAGO. 221
preparations ; and amid the horrors of their situation,
there were not wanting one or two gallant hearts, who
strove to encourage, in their desponding companions,
the hopes of escape they were far from indulging them-
selves.
Of the ammunition there had been reserved but
twenty-five rounds, beside one box of cartridges, con-
tained in the baggage-wagons. This must, under any
circumstances of danger, have proved an inadequate
supply, but the prospect of a fatiguing march, in their
present ineffective state, forbade the troops embarrass-
ing themselves with a larger quantity.
CHAPTER XIX.
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE
CONTINUED.
THE morning of the 15th arrived. All things were
in readiness, and nine o'clock was the hour named for
starting.
Mr. Kinzie had volunteered to accompany the troops
in their march, and had entrusted his family to the
care of some friendly Indians, who had promised to
convey them in a boat around the head of Lake Michi-
gan to a point* on the St. Joseph's river ; there to be
joined by the troops, should the prosecution of their
march be permitted them.
Early in the morning Mr. Kinzie received a message
from To-pee-nee-bee, a chief of the St. Joseph's band,
informing him that mischief was intended by the Potto-
wattamies who had engaged to escort the detachment ;
and urging him to relinquish his design of accompa-
nying the troops by land, promising him that the boat
containing himself and family should be permitted to
pass in safety to St. Joseph's.
* The spot now called Bertrand, then known as Pare aux Vaches,
from its having been a pasture ground to an old French fort in the
neighborhood.
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 223
Mr. Kinzie declined according to this proposal, as he
believed that his presence might operate as a restraint
upon the fury of the savages, so warmly were the
greater part of them attached to himself and his family.
The party in the boat consisted of Mrs. Kinzie and
her four younger children, their nurse Gratte,* a clerk
of Mr. Kinzie's, two servants and the boatmen, besides
the two Indians who acted as their protectors. The
boat- started, but had scarcely reached the mouth of
the river, which, it will be recollected was here half a
mile below the fort, when another messenger from
To-pee-nee-bee arrived to detain them where they were.
In breathless expectation sat the wife and mother.
She was a woman of uncommon energy and strength
of character, yet her heart died within her as she
folded her arms around her helpless infants, and gazed
upon the march of her husband and eldest child to
certain destruction.
As the the troops left the fort, the band struck up
the Dead March. On they came in military array, but
with solemn mien. Captain Wells took the lead at the
head of his little band of Miamis. He had blackened
his face before leave the garrison, in token of his im-
pending fate. They took their route along the lake
shore. When they reached the point where com-
menced a range of sand hills intervening between the
prairie and the beach, the escort of Pottowattamies,
* Afterwards Mrs. Jean Baptiste Braubien.
224 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
in number about five hundred, kept the level of the
prairie, instead of continuing along the beach with the
Americans and Miamis.
They had marched perhaps a mile and a half, when
Captain "Wells, who had kept somewhat in advance
with his Miamis, came riding furiously back.
" They are about to attack us," shouted he ; "form,
instantly, and charge upon them."
Scarcely were the words uttered, when a volley was
showered from among the sand-hills. The troops were
hastily brought into line, and charged up the bank.
One man, a veteran of seventy winters, fell as they
ascended. The remainder of the scene is best described
in the words of an eye-witness and participator in the
tragedy, Mrs. Helm, the wife of Captain (then Lieu-
tenant) Helm, and step-daughter of Mr. Kinzie.
"After we had left the bank the firing became
general. The Miamis fled at the outset. Their chief
rode up to the Pottowattamies and said :
" You have deceived the Americans and us. You
have done a bad action, and (brandishing his toma-
hawk) I will be the first to head a party of Americans
to return and punish your treachery." So saying, he
galloped after his companions, who were now scouring
across the prairies.
" The troops behaved most gallantly. They were
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 225
but a handful, but they seemed resolved to sell their
lives as dearly as possible. Our horses pranced and
bounded, and could hardly be restrained as the balls
whistled among them. I drew off a little, and gazed
upon my husband and father, who were yet unharmed.
I felt that my hour was come, and endeavored to for-
get those I loved, and prepare myself for my approach-
ing fate.
" While I was thus engaged, the surgeon, Dr. Yan
Yoorhees, came up. He was badly wounded. His
horse had been shot under him, and he had received a
ball in his leg. Every muscle of his face was quiver-
ing with the agony of terror. He said to me ' Do
you think they will take our lives? I am badly
wounded, but I think not mortally. Perhaps we
might purchase our lives by promising them a large
reward. Do you think there is any chance?'
" ' Dr. Van Yoorhees,' said I, ' do not let us waste
the few moments that yet remain to us in such vain
hopes. Our fate is inevitable. In a few moments we
must appear before the bar of God. Let us make what
preparation is yet in our power.'
" ' Oh ! I cannot die,' exclaimed he, ' I am not fit to
die if I had but a short time to prepare death is
awful!'
" I pointed to Ensign Eonan, who though mortally
wounded and nearly down, was still fighting with
desperation on one knee.
10*
226 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
" 'Look at that man,' said I, ' at least he dies like a
soldier.'
" 'Yes,' replied the unfortunate man, with a convul
sive gasp, 'but he has no terrors of the future he is
an unbeliever!'
" At this moment a young Indian raised his toma-
hawk at me. By springing aside, I avoided the blow
which was intended for my skull, but which alighted
on my shoulder. I seized him. around the neck, and
while exerting my utmost efforts to get possession of
his scalping-knife, which hung in a scabbard over his
breast, I was dragged from his grasp by another and
an older Indian.
"The latter bore me struggling and resisting
towards the lake. Notwithstanding the rapidity with
which I was hurried along, I recognized as I passed
them the lifeless remains of the unfortunate surgeon.
Some murderous tomahawk had stretched him upon
the very spot where I had last seen him.
" I was immediately plunged into the water and held
there with a forcible hand, notwithstanding my resist-
ance. I soon perceived, however, that the object of
my captor was not to drown me, for he held me firmly
in such a position as to place my head above water.
This reassured me, and regarding him attentively, I
soon recognized, in spite of the paint with which he
was disguised, The Slack Partridge.
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 227
" When the firing had nearly subsided, my preserver
bore me from the water and conducted me up the sand-
banks. It was a burning August morning, and walk-
ing through the sand in my drenched condition was
inexpressibly painful and fatiguing. I stooped and
took off my shoes to free them from the sand with
which they were nearly filled, when a squaw seized
and carried them off, and I was obliged to proceed
without them.
" When we had gained the prairie, I was met by my
father, who told me that my husband was safe and but
slightly wounded. They led me gently back towards
the Chicago Kiver, along the southern bank of which
was the Pottowattamie encampment. At one time I
was placed upon a horse without a saddle, but finding
the motion insupportable, I sprang off. Supported
partly by my kind conductor, Black Partridge, and
partly by another Indian, Pee-so-tum, who held dang-
ling in his hand a scalp, which by the black ribbon
around the queue I recognized as that of Capt. Wells,
I dragged my fainting steps to one of the wigwams.
" The wife of Wau-bee-nee-mah, a chief from the
Illinois Eiver was standing near, and seeing my ex-
hausted condition she seized a kettle, dipped up some
water from a stream that flowed near,* threw into it
some maple sugar, and stirring it up with her hand
gave it me to drink. This act of kindness, in the midst
* Just by the present State street Market.
228 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
of so many horrors,, touched me most sensibly, but my
attention was soon diverted to other objects.
"The fort had become a scene of plunder to such as
remained after the troops marched out. The cattle had
been shot down as they ran at large, and lay dead or
dying around. This work of butchery had com-
menced just as we were leaving the fort. I well re-
memembered a remark of Ensign Eonan, as the firing
went on. ' Such,' turning to me, 'is to be our fate
to be shot down like brutes !'
" ' Well sir,' said the Commanding Officer who over-
heard him, ' are you afraid T
" ' No,' replied the high spirited young man, ' I can
march up to the enemy where you dare not show your
face;' and his subsequent gallant behaviour showed
this to be no idle boast.
" As the noise of the firing grew gradually less and
the stragglers from the victorious party came dropping
in, I received confirmation of what my father had hur-
riedly communicated in our rencontre on the lake
shore ; namely, that the whites had surrendered after
the loss of about two-thirds of their number. They
had stipulated, through the interpreter, Peresh Leclerc,
for the preservation of their lives, and those of the re-
maining women and children, and for their delivery at
some of the British posts, unless ransomed by traders
in the Indian country. It appears that the wounded
prisoners were not considered as included in the stipu-
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 229
lation, and a horrible scene ensued upon their being
brought into camp.
" An old squaw infuriated by the loss of friends, or
excited by the sanguinary scenes around her, seemed
possessed by a demoniac ferocity. She seized a stable-
fork and assaulted one miserable victim, who lay
groaning and writhing in the agony of his wounds,
aggravated by the scorching beams of the sun. With
a delicacy of feeling scarcely to have been expected
under such circumstances, Wau-bee-nee-mah stretched
a mat across two poles, between me and this dreadful
scene. I was thus spared in some degree a view of its
horrors, although I could not entirely close my ears to
the cries of the sufferer. The following night five more
of the wounded prisoners were tomahawked.
" The Americans after their first attack by the Indians
charged upon those who had concealed themselves in
a sort of ravine, intervening between the sand banks
and the prairie. The latter gathered themselves into a
body, and after some hard fighting, in which the num-
ber of whites had become reduced to twenty-eight, this
little band succeeded in breaking through the enemy,
and gaining a rising ground, not far from the Oak
Woods. The contest now seemed hopeless, and Lt.
Helm sent Peresh Leclerc, a half-breed boy in tHe ser-
vice of Mr. Kinzie, who had accompanied the detach-
ment and fought manfully on their side, to propose
terms of capitulation. It was stipulated that the
230 THE EARLY DAY EST THE NORTH-WEST.
lives of all the survivors should be spared, and a ran-
som permitted as soon as practicable.
" But, in the mean time, a horrible scene had been
enacted. One young savage, climbing into the bag-
gage-wagon containing the children of the white fami-
lies, twelve in number, tomahawked the children of
the entire group. This was during the engagement
near the Sand-hills. When Captain Wells, who was
fighting near, beheld it, he exclaimed :
" 'Is that their game, butchering the women and
children ? Then I will kill too T
" So saving, he turned his horse's head, and started
for the Indian camp, near the fort, where had been
left their squaws and children.
" Several Indians pursued him, as he galloped along.
He laid himself flat on the neck of his horse, loading
and firing in that position, as he would occasionally
turn on his pursuers. At length their balls took effect,
killing his horse, and severely wounding himself. At
this moment he was met by Winnemeg and Wau-lan-
see, who endeavored to save him from the savages who
had now overtaken him. As they supported him
along, after having disengaged him from his horse, he
received his death-blow from another Indian, Pee-so-
turn, who stabbed him in the back.
" The heroic resolution of one of the soldier's wives
deserves to be recorded. She was a Mrs. Corbin, and
had, from the first, expressed the determination never
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 231
to fall into the hands of the savages, believing that
their prisoners were always subjected to tortures worse
than death.
" When, therefore, a party came upon her, to make
her a prisoner, she fought with desperation, refusing
to surrender, although assured, by signs, of safety and
kind treatment, and literally sundered herself to be cut
to pieces, rather than become their captive.
" There was a Sergeant Holt, who, early in the en-
gagement, received a ball in the neck. Finding himself
badly wounded, he gave his sword to his wife, who
was on horseback near him, telling her to defend her-
self he then made fpr the lake, to keep out of the way
of the balls. Mrs. Holt rode a very fine horse, which
the Indians were desirous of possessing, and they
therefore attacked her, in hopes of dismounting her.
" They fought only with the butt-ends of their guns,
for their object was not to kill her. She hacked and
hewed at their pieces as they were thrust against her,
now on this side, now on that. Finally, she broke
loose from them, and dashed out into the prairie. The
Indians pursued her, shouting and laughing, and now
and then calling out :
" ' The brave woman ! do not hurt her 1'
" At length they overtook her again, and while she
was engaged with two or three in front, one succeeded
in seizing her by the neck behind, and dragging her,
although a large and powerful woman, from her horse.
232 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
Notwithstanding that their guns had been so hacked
and injured, and even themselves cut severely, they
seemed to regard her only with admiration. They
took her to a trader on the Ulinois Kiver, by whom she
was restored to her Mends, after having received
every kindness during her captivity.*
"Those of the family of Mr. Kinzie, who had re-
mained in the boat, near the mouth of the river, were
carefully guarded by Kee-po-tah and another Indian.
They had seen the snioke then the blaze and im-
mediately after the report of the first tremendous dis-
charge sounded in their ears. Then all was confusion.
They realized nothing until they saw an Indian come
towards them from the battle-ground, leading a horse
on which sat a lady, apparently wounded.
" ' That is Mrs. Heald,' cried Mrs. Kinzie. That
Indian will kill her. Eun, Chandonnai,' to one of Mr.
Kinzie's clerks, take the mule that is tied there, and
offer it to him to release her.'
" Her captor, by this time, was in the act of disin-
gaging her bonnet from her head, in order to scalp
her. Chandonnai ran up, offered the mule as a ran-
som, with the promise of ten bottles of whiskey, as
soon as they should reach his village. The latter was
a strong temptation.
" ' But,' said the Indian, ' she is badly wounded she
will die. Will you give me the whiskey, at all events ?'
* Mrs. Holt is believed to be still living in the State of Ohio.
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE, 33
" Chandonnai promised that lie would, and tlie bar-
gain was concluded. The savage placed the lady's bon-
net on his own head, and after an ineffectual effort on
the part of some squaws to rob her of her shoes and
stockings, she was brought on board the boat, where she
lay moaning with pain from the many bullet wounds
she had received in both arms.
" The horse she had ridden was a fine spirited animal,
and, being desirous of possessing themselves of it un-
injured, the Indians had aimed, their shots so as to
disable the rider, without injuring her steed.
"She had not lain long in the boat, when a young
Indian of savage aspect was seen approaching. A
buffalo robe was hastily drawn over Mrs. Heald, and
she was admonished to suppress all sound of complaint,
as she valued her life.
" The heroic woman remained perfectly silent, while
the savage drew near. He had a pistol in his hand,
which he rested on the side of the boat, while, with a
fearful scowl, he looked pryingly around. Black Jim,
one of the servants who stood in the bow of the boat,
seized an axe that lay near, and signed to him that if
he shot, he would cleave his skull ; telling him that
the boat contained only the family of Shaw-nee-aw-Tcee.
Upon this, the Indian retired. It afterward appeared
that the object of his search was Mr. Burnett, a tradei
from St. Joseph's, with whom he had some account to
settle.
234 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
" Wlien the boat was at length, permitted to return to
the mansion of Mr. Kinzie, and Mrs. Heald was re-
moved to the house, it became necessary to dress her
wounds.
" Mr. K. applied to an old chief who stood by, and
who, like most of his tribe, possessed some skill in
surgery, to extract a ball from the arm of the sufferer.
" ' No, father,' replied he. ' I cannot do it it makes
me sick here' (placing his hand on his heart).
" Mr. Kinzie then performed the operation himself
with his penknife.
"At their own mansion the family of Mr. Kinzie were
closely guarded by their Indian friends, whose inten-
tion it was, to carry them to Detroit for security. The
rest of the prisoners remained at the wigwams of their
captors.
" The following morning, the work of plunder being
completed, the Indians set fire to the fort. A very
equitable distribution of the finery appeared to have
been made, and shawls, ribbons, and feathers flut-
tered about in all directions. The ludicrous appear-
ance of one young fellow who had arrayed himself in
a muslin gown, and the bonnet of one of the ladies,
would, under other circumstances, have afforded
matter of amusement.
"Black Partridge, Wau-ban-see, andKee-po-tah, with
two other Indians, having established themselves in the
porch of the building as sentinels, to protect the family
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 235
from any evil that the young men might be excited to
commit, all remained tranquil for a short space after
the conflagration.
" Yery soon, however, a party of Indians from the
Wabash made their appearance. These were, de-
cidedly, the most hostile and implacable of all the
tribes of the Pottowattamies.
" Being more remote, they had shared less than some
)f their brethren in the kindness of Mr. Kinzie and his
family, and consequently their sentiments of regard for
them were less powerful.
" Eunners had been sent to the villages to apprize
them of the intended evacuation of the post, as well as
of the plan of the Indians assembled to attack the
troops.
"Thirsting to participate in such a scene they hurried
on, and great was their mortification on arriving at the
river Aux Plaines, to meet with a party of their
friends having with them their chief Nee-scot-nee-meg,
badly wounded, and to learn that the battle was over,
the spoils divided, and the scalps all taken.
" On arriving at Chicago they blackened their faces,
and proceeded towards the dwelling of Mr. Kinzie.
" From his station on the piazza Black Partridge had
watched their approach, and his fears were particularly
awakened for the safety of Mrs. Helm (Mr. Kinzie's
step-daughter), who had recently come to the post, and
was personally unknown to the more remote Indians.
236 THE EARLY DAY IN" THE NORTH-WEST.
By his advice she was made to as'sume the ordinary
dress of a French woman of the country ; namely, a
short gown and petticoat, with a blue cotton handker-
chief wrapped around her head. In this disguise she
was conducted by Black Partridge himself to the house
of Ouilmette, a Frenchman with a half-breed wife, who
formed a part of the establishment of Mr. Kinzie, and
whose dwelling was close at hand.
" It so happened that the Indians came first to this
house, in their search for prisoners. As they ap-
proached, the inmates, fearful that the fair complexion
and general appearance of Mrs. Helm might betray her
for an American, raised a large feather-bed and placed
her under the edge of it, upon the bedstead, with her
face to the wall. Mrs. Bisson, the sister of Ouilmette's
wife, then seated herself with her sewing upon the
front of the bed.
" It was a hot day in August, and the feverish excite-
ment of fear and agitation, together with her position,
which was nearly suffocating, became so intolerable,
that Mrs. Helm at length entreated to be released and
given up to the Indians.
" ' I can but die,' said she ; ' let them put an end to
my misery at once.'
" Mrs. Bisson replied, ' Your death would be the
destruction of us all, for Black Partridge has resolved
that if one drop of the blood of your family is spilled, he
will take the lives of all concerned in it, even his nearest
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 237
friends, and if once the work of murder commences,
there will be no end of it, so long as there remains one
white person, or half breed, in the country.'
" This expostulation nerved Mrs. Helm with fresh
resolution.
" The Indians entered, and she could occasionally see
them from her hiding-place, gliding about, and stealth-
ily inspecting every part of the room, though without
making any ostensible search, until apparently satisfied
that there was no one concealed, they left the house.
"All this time Mrs. Bisson had kept her seat upon
the side of the bed, calmly sorting and arranging the
patchwork of the quilt on which she was engaged, and
preserving an appearance of the utmost tranquillity,
although she knew not but that the next moment she
might receive a tomahawk in her brain. Her self-
command unquestionably saved the lives of all present.
" From Ouilmette's house the party of Indians pro-
ceeded to the dwelling of Mr. Kinzie. They entered
the parlor in which the family were assembled with
their faithful protectors, and seated themselves upon
the floor in silence.
" Black Partridge perceived from their moody and
revengeful looks what was passing in their minds, but
he dared not remonstrate with them. He only ob-
served in a low tone to Wau-bah-see
" 'We have endeavored to save our friends, but it is
in vain nothing will save them now.'
238 THE EARLY DAY IN THE K ORTH-WEST.
" At this moment a friendly whoop was heard from a
party of new comers on the opposite bank of the river.
Black Partridge sprang to meet their leader, as the
canoes in which they had hastily embarked touched
the bank near the house.
" ' "Who are you?' demanded he.
" ' A man who are you T
"'A man like yourself, but tell me who you are '
meaning, tell me your disposition, and which side you
are for.
" 'I am the Sau-ga-nash /'
" ' Then make all speed to the house your friend is
in danger, and you alone can save him.'
" Billy Caldwell* for it was he, entered the parlor
with a calm step, and without a trace of agitation in
his manner. He deliberately took off his accoutre-
ments and placed them with his rifle behind the door ;
then saluted the hostile savages.
" ' How now, my friends ! A good day to you. I
was told there were enemies here, but I am glad to
find only friends. Why have you blackened your
faces ? Is it that you are mourning for the friends you
have lost in battle ?' (purposely misunderstanding this
* Billy Caldwell was a half-breed, and a chief of the nation. In
his reply, "lam a Sau-ga-wash," or Englishman, he designed to con-
vey, " I am a white man." Had he said, "lama Pottowattamie,"
it would have been interpreted to mean, "I belong to my nation,
and am prepared to go all lengths with them."
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 239
token of evil designs). ' Or is it that you are fasting ?
If so, ask our friend here, and he will give you to eat.
He is the Indian's friend, and never yet refused them
what they had need of.'
" Thus taken by surprise, the savages were ashamed to
acknowledge their bloody purpose. They, therefore,
said modestly that they came to beg of their friends
some white cotton in which to wrap their dead, before
interring them. This was given to them with some
other presents, and they took their departure peaceably
from the premises.
" Along with Mr. Kinzie's party was a non-commis-
sioned officer who had made his escape in a .singular
manner. As the troops were about leaving the fort it
was found that the baggage-horses of the surgeon had
strayed off. The quarter-master-sergeant, Griffith, was
sent to collect them and bring them on, it being abso-
lutely necessary to recover them, since their packs
contained part of the surgeon's apparatus, and the
medicines for the march.
" This man had been for a long time on the sick
report, and for this reason was given the charge of the
baggage, instead of being placed with the troops. His
efforts to recover the horses being unsuccessful, he was
hastening to rejoin his party ; alarmed at some appear-
ances of disorder and hostile indications among the
Indians, when he was met and made prisoner by To-
pee-nee-bee.
240 THE EAELT DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
" Having taken from him his arms and accoutrements,
the chief put him into a canoe and paddled him across
the river, bidding him make for the woods and secrete
himself. This he did, and the following day, in the
afternoon, seeing from his lurking-place that all ap-
peared quiet, he ventured to steal cautiously into the
garden of Ouilmette, where he concealed himself for a
time behind some currant-bushes.
"At length he determined to enter the house, and
accordingly climbed up through a small back window,
into the room where the family were. This was just
as the Wabash Indians left the house of Ouilmette for
that of Mr. Kinzie. The danger of the sergeant was
now imminent. The family stripped him of his uni-
form and arrayed him in a suit of deer-skin, with belt,
moccasins, and pipe, like a French engagd His dark
complexion and large black whiskers favored the dis-
guise. The family were all ordered to address him in
French, and although utterly ignorant of the language
he continued to pass for a Weem-tee-gosh* and as such
to accompany Mr. Kinzie and his family, undetected by
his enemies until they reached a place of safety.
"On the third day after the battle, the family of Mr.
Kinzie, with the clerks of the establishment, were put
into a boat, under the care of Francois, a half-breed
interpreter, and conveyed to St. Joseph's where they
remained until the following November, under the pro-
* Frenchman.
1
JSTABEATIVE OF THE MASSACKE. 241
tection of To-pee-nee-beds band. They were then con-
ducted to Detroit, under the escort of Chandonnai and
their trusty Indian friend, Ke-po-tah, and delivered up
as prisoners of war, to Col. McKee the British Indian
Agent.
" Mr. Kinzie was not allowed to leave St. Joseph's
with his family, his Indian friends insisting on his re-
maining arid endeavoring to secure some remnant of
his scattered property. During his excursions with
them for that purpose, he wore the costume and paint
of the tribe, in order to escape capture and perhaps
death at the hands of those who were still thirsting
for blood. In time, however, his anxiety for his fam-
ily induced him to follow them to Detroit, where, in
the month of January, he was received and paroled
by Gen. Proctor.
" Capt. and Mrs. Heald had been sent across the lake to
St. Joseph's the day after the battle. The former had
received two wounds, the latter seven in the engagement.
"Lieut. Helm, who was likewise wounded, was car-
ried by some friendly Indians to their village on the
Au. Sable, and thence to Peoria, where he was libe-
rated by the intervention of Mr. Thomas Forsyth, the
half-brother of Mr. Kinzie. Mrs. Helm had accompa-
nied her parents to St. Joseph, where they resided in
the family of Alexander Eobinson,* receiving from
* The Pottowattamie chief, so well known to many of the citi-
zens of Chicago, now residing at the Aux Plaines. H
242 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
them all possible kindness and hospitality for several
months.
" After their arrival in Detroit, Mrs. Helm was joined
by her husband, when they were both arrested by or-
der of the British commander, and sent on horseback,
in the dead of winter, through Canada to Fort George
on the Niagara frontier. When they arrived at that
post, there seemed no official appointed to receive them,
and notwithstanding their long and fatiguing journey,
in weather the most cold and inclement, Mrs. H., a de-
licate woman of seventeen years, was permitted to sit
waiting in her saddle without the gate for more than
an hour, before the refreshment of fire or food, or even
the shelter of a roof, was offered them. When Col.
Sheaffe, who had been absent at the time, was informed
of this brutal inhospitality, he expressed the greatest
indignation. He waited on Mrs. Helm immediately,
apologized in the most courteous manner, and treated
both her and Lieut. H. with the most considerate kind-
ness, until, by an exchange of prisoners, they were
liberated, and found means to reach their friends in
Steuben County, N. Y.
" Capt. Heald had been taken prisoner by an Indian
from the Kankakee, who had a strong personal regard
for him, and who, when he saw the wounded and en-
feebled state of Mrs. H. released her husband that he
might accompany his wife to St. Joseph's. To the
latter place they 'were accordingly carried, as has been
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 243
related, by Chandonnai and his party. In the mean
time, the Indian who had so. nobly released his prison-
er returned to his village on the Kankakee, where he
had the mortification of finding that his conduct had
excited great dissatisfaction among his band. So great
was the displeasure manifested, that he resolved to make
a journey to St. Joseph's and reclaim his prisoner.
" News of his intention being brought to To-pee-nee-
bee and Kee-po-tah under whose care the prisoners
were, they held a private council with Chandonnai,
Mr. Kinzie, and the principal men of the village, the
result of which was, a determination to send Capt.
and Mrs. Heald to the island of Mackinac, and deliver
them up to the British.
" They were accordingly put in a bark canoe, and pad-
dled by Eobinson and his wife a distance of three hun-
dred miles along the coast of Michigan, and surrendered
as prisoners of war to the Commanding Officer at Mac-
kinac.
"As an instance of the procrastinating spirit of Capt.
Heald it may be mentioned that even after he had re-
ceived certain intelligence that his Indian captor was
on his way from the Kankakee to St. Joseph's to re-
take him, he would still have delayed another day at
that place, to make preparation for a more comfortable
journey to Mackinac.
'' The soldiers, with their wives and surviving chil-
dren, were dispersed among the different villages of
244 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
the Pottawattamies upon the Illinois, "Wabash, Eock
River, and at Milwaukie, until the following spring,
when they were, for the most part, carried to Detroit,
and ransomed.
"Mrs. Burns, with her infant, became the prisoners of
a chief, who carried her to his village and treated her
with great kindness. His wife, from jealousy of the
favor shown to " the white woman" and her child, al-
ways treated them with great hostility. On one occa-
sion she struck the infant with a tomahawk, and nar-
rowly missed her aim of putting an end to it altogether.*
They were not left long in the power of the old
hag, after this demonstration, but on the first op-
portunity carried to a place of safety.
"The family of Mr. Lee had resided in a house on the
Lake shore, not far from the fort. Mr. Lee was the
owner of Lee's Place, which he cultivated as a farm.
It was his son who ran down with the discharged sol-
dier to give the alarm of " Indians" at the fort on the
afternoon of the 7th of April. The father, the son, and
all the other members of the family had fallen victims
on the 15th of August, except Mrs. Lee and her
young infant. These were claimed by Black Partridge,
* Twenty-two years after this, as I was on a journey to Chicago in
the steamer Uncle Sam, a young woman, hearing my name, intro-
duced herself to me, and raising the hair from her forehead, showed
me the mark of the tomahawk which had so nearly been fatal to
her.
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 245
and carried to his village on the Au Sable. He
had been particularly attached to a little girl of Mrs.
Lee's, about twelve years of age. This child had been
placed on horseback for the march, and as she was
unaccustomed to the exercise, she was tied fast to the
saddle, lest by any accident she should slip off or be
thrown.
" She was within reach of the balls at the commence-
ment of the engagement, and was severely wounded.
The horse set off on a full gallop, which partly threw
her, but she was held fast by the bands which confined
her, and hung dangling as the animal ran violently
about. In this state she was met by Black Partridge,
who caught the horse and disengaged her from the sad-
dle. Finding her so much wounded that she could not
recover, and that she was suffering great agony, he put
the finishing stroke to her at once with his tomahawk.
He afterward said that this was the hardest thing he
ever tried to do, but he did it because he could not
bear to see her suffer.
" He took the mother and her infant to his village,
where he became warmly attached to the former so
much so, that he wished to marry her, but, as she very
naturally objected, he treated her with the greatest
respect and consideration He was in no hurry to
release her, for he was in hopes of prevailing on her
to become his wife. In the course of the winter her
child fell ill. Finding that none of the remedies within
246 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
their reach, were effectual, Black Partridge proposed
to take the little one to Chicago, where there was now
a French trader living in the mansion of Mr. Kinzie,
and procure some medical aid from him. Wrapping up
his charge with the greatest care, he sat out on his
journey.
" When he arrived at the residence of M. Du'Pin,
he entered the room where he was, and carefully placed
his burthen on the floor.
" ' What have you there ?' asked M. Du Pin.
"'A young racoon, which I have brought you as a
present,' was the reply, and opening the pack, he
showed the little sick infant.
" When the trader had prescribed for its complaint,
and Black Partridge was about to return to his home,
he told his friend his proposal to Mrs. Lee to become
his wife and the manner in which it had been received.
" M. Du Pin entertained some fears that the chief's
honorable resolution might not hold out, to leave it to
the lady herself whether to accept his addresses or not,
so he entered at once into a negociation for her ransom,
and so effectually wrought upon the good feelings of
Black Partridge that he consented to bring his fair
prisoner at once to Chicago, that she might be restored
to her friends.
" Whether the kind trader had at the outset, any other
feeling in the matter than sympathy and brotherly
kindness we cannot say we only know that, in pro-
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 247
cess of time Mrs. Lee became Madame Du Pin, and
that they lived fogether in great happiness for many
years after.
" The fate of Nau-non-gee, one of the chiefs of the
Calumet village, and who is mentioned in the early
part of the narrative, deserves to be recorded.
" During the battle of the 15th of August, the chief
object of his attack was one Sergeant Hays, a man from
whom he had received many acts of kindness.
" After Hays had received a ball through the body,
this Indian ran up to him to tomahawk him, when the
Sergeant, collecting his remaining strength, pierced him
through the body with his bayonet. They fell together.
Other Indians running up soon dispatched Hays, and
it was not until then, that his bayonet was extracted
from the body of his adversary.
" The wounded chief was carried after the battle to
his village on the Calumet, where he survived for se-
veral days. Finding his end approaching, he called
together his young men, and enjoined them in the
most solemn manner, to. regard the safety of their pris-
oners after his death, and to take the lives of none of
them from respect to his memory, as he deserved his
fate from the hands of those whose kindness he had so
ill-requited."
CHAPTER XX.
CAPTIVITY OF J. KINZIE, SbiN, AN
AMUSINQ MISTAKE.
IT had been a stipulation of Gen. Hull at the sur-
render of Detroit that the inhabitants of that place
should be permitted to remain undisturbed in their
homes. Accordingly the family of Mr. Kinzie took up
their quarters with their friends in the old mansion,
which many will still recollect as standing on the north-
east corner of Jefferson avenue and "Wayne street.
The feelings of indignation and sympathy were con-
stantly aroused in the hearts of the citizens during the
winter that ensued. They were almost daily called npon
to witness the cruelties practised upon the American
prisoners brought in by their Indian captors. Those
who could scarcely drag their wounded, bleeding feet
over the frozen ground, were compelled to dance for
the amusement of the savages, and these exhibitions
sometimes took place before the Government House,
the residence of Col. McKee. Some of the British
officers looked on from their windows at these heart-
rending performances ; for the honor of humanity we
will hope such instances were rare.
Every thing that could be made available among the
CAPTIVITY OF J. KESTZIE, SENIOR. 249
effects of the citizens were offered, to ransom their
countrymen from the hands of these inhuman beings.
The prisoners brought in from the Eiver Eaisin those
unfortunate men who were permitted after their sur-
render to Gen. Proctor, to be tortured and murdered
by inches by his savage allies, excited the sympathies
and called for the action of the whole community.
Private houses were turned into hospitals, and every
one was forward to get possession of as many as pos-
sible of the survivors. To effect this, even the articles
of their apparel were bartered by the ladies of Detroit,
as they watched from their doors or windows the miser-
able victims carried about for sale.
In the dwelling of Mr. Kinzie one large room was
devoted to the reception of the sufferers. Few of them
survived. Among those spoken of as objects of the
deepest interest were two young gentlemen of Ken-
tucky, brothers, both severely wounded, and their
wounds aggravated to a mortal degree by subsequent
ill-usage and hardships. Their solicitude for each
other, and their exhibition in various ways of the most
tender fraternal affection, created an impression never
to be forgotten.
The last bargain made was by black Jim, and one
of the children, who had permission to redeem a negro
servant of the gallant Col. Allen, with an old white
horse, the only available article that remained among
their possessions.
11*
250 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
A brother of Col. Allen afterwards came to Detroit,
and the negro preferred returning to servitude rather
than remaining a stranger in a strange land.
Mr. Kinzie, as has been related, joined his family at
Detroit in the month of January. A short time after
suspicions arose in the mind of Gen. Proctor that he
was in correspondence with Gen. Harrison, who was
now at Fort Meigs, and who was believed to be medi-
tating an advance upon Detroit. Lieut. Watson of the
British army waited upon Mr. Kinzie one day with an
invitation to the quarters of Gen. Proctor on the opposite
side of the river, saying he wished to speak with him,
on business. Quite unsuspicious, he complied with the
invitation, when to his surprise he was ordered into
confinement, and strictly guarded in the house of his
former partner, Mr. Patterson of Sandwich. Finding
that he did not ' return to his home, Mrs. Kinzie in-
formed some of the Indian chiefs, his particular friends,
who immediately repaired to the head-quarters of the
Commanding Officer, demanded their "friend's" release,
and brought him back to his home. After waiting a
time until a favorable opportunity presented itself, the
General sent a detachment of dragoons to arrest him.
They had succeeded in carrying him away, and cross-
ing the river with him. Just at this moment a party
of friendly Indians made their appearance.
"Where is the Shaw-nee-aw-kee ?" was the first ques-
tion. "There," replied his wife, pointing across the
CAPTIVITY OF J. KINZIE, SENIOR. 251
river, " in the hands of the red-coats, who are taking
him away again."
The Indians ran to the river, seized some canoes that
they found there, and crossing over to Sandwich, com-
pelled Gen. Proctor a second time to forego his
intentions.
A third time this officer was more successful, and
succeeded in arresting Mr. Kinzie and conveying him
heavily ironed to Fort Maiden, in Canada, at the mouth
of the Detroit Eiver. Here he was at first treated with
great severity, but after a time the rigor of his con-
finement was somewhat relaxed, and he was permitted
to walk on the bank of the river for air and exercise.
On the 10th of September^ as he was taking his
promenade under the close supervision of a guard of
soldiers, the whole party were startled by the sound of
guns upon Lake Brie, at no great distance below.
"What could it mean? It must be Commodore Barclay
firing into some of the Yankees. The firing continued.
The time allotted the prisoner for his daily walk ex-
pired, but neither he nor his guard observed the lapse
of time, so anxiously were they listening to what they
now felt sure was an engagement between ships of war.
At length Mr. Kinzie was reminded that the hour for
his return to confinement had arrived. He petitioned
for another half-hour.
"Let me stay," said he, "till we can learn how the
battle has gone."
252 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
Yery soon a sloop appeared under press of sail,
rounding the point, and presently two gun-boats in
chase of her.
" She is running she bears the British colors," cried
he "yes, yes, they are lowering she is striking her
flag! Now," turning to the soldiers, "I will go back
to prison contented I know how the battle has gone."
The sloop was the Little Belt, the last of the squad-
ron captured by the gallant Perry on that memorable
occasion which he announced in the immortal words ;
" We have met the enemy, and they are ours 1"
Matters were growing critical, and it was necessary
to transfer all prisoners to a place of greater security
than the frontier was now likely to be. It was resolved
therefore to send Mr. Kinzie to the mother country.
Nothing has ever appeared, which would explain this
course of Gen. Proctor, in regard to this gentleman.
He had been taken from the bosom of his family, where
he was living quietly under the parole which he had
received, and protected by the stipulations of the sur-
render. He was kept for months in confinement. Now
he was placed on horseback under a strong guard, who
announced that they had orders to shoot him through
the head, if he offered to speak to a person upon the
road. He was tied upon the saddle in a way to pre-
vent his escape, and thus they sat out for Quebec. A
little incident occurred, which will help to illustrate the
course invariably pursued towards our citizens at this
NARRATIVE OF THE MASSACRE. 253
period, by the British army on the North-western
frontier.
The saddle on which Mr. Kinzie rode had not been
properly fastened, and owing to the rough motion of
the animal on which it was, it turned, so as to bring
the rider into a most awkward and painful position.
His limbs being fastened, he could not disengage him-
self, and in this manner he was compelled by those
who had charge of him to ride until he was nearly
exhausted, before they had the humanity to release
him.
Arrived at Quebec, he was put on board a small
vessel to be sent to England. The vessel when a few
days out at sea was chased by an American frigate and
driven into Halifax. A second time she set sail, when
she sprung a leak and was compelled to put back.
The attempt to send him across the ocean was now
abandoned, and he was returned to Quebec. Another
step, equally inexplicable with his arrest, was now
taken. This was his release and that of Mr. Macomb,
o Detroit, who was also in confiement in Quebec, and
the permission given them to return to their friends
and families, although the war was not yet ended. It
may possibly be imagined that in the treatment these
gentlemen received, the British Commander-in-chief
sheltered himself under the plea of their being " native
born British subjects," and perhaps when it was ascer-
254: THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
tained that Mr. Kinzie was indeed a citizen of the
United States, it was thought safest to release him.
In the meantime, General Harrison at the head of
his troops had reached Detroit. He landed on the
29th September. All the citizens went forth to meet
him Mrs. Kinzie, leading her children by the hand,
was of the number. The General accompanied her to
her home, and took up his abode there. On his ar-
rival he was introduced to Kee-po-tah, who happened
to be on a visit to the family at that time. The
General had seen the chief the preceding year, at the
Council at Vincennes, and the meeting was one of great
cordiality and interest.
In 1816, Mr. Kinzie and his family again returned
to Chicago. The fort was rebuilt on a somewhat larger
scale than the former one. It was not until the return
of the troops that the bones of the unfortunate Ameri-
cans who had been massacred four years before, were
collected and buried.
An Indian Agency, under the charge of Charles
Jewett, Esq., of Kentucky was established. He was
succeeded in 1820 by Dr. Alexander Wolcott, of Con-
necticut, who occupied that position until his death in
1830.
The troops were removed from the garrison in 1823,
CAPTIVITY OF J. KINZIE, SENIOR. 255
but restored in 1828, after the Winnebago war. This
was a disturbance between the Winnebagoes and white
settlers on and near the Mississippi. After some mur-
ders had been committed, the young chief, Ked Bird,
was taken and imprisoned at Prairie du Chien to await
his trial, where he died of chagrin and the irksomeness
of confinement. It was feared that the Pottowattamies
would make common cause with the Winnebagoes,
and commence a general system of havoc and blood-
shed on the frontier. They were deterred from such
a step, probably, by the exertions of Billy Caldwell,
Eobinson, and Shau-bee-nay, who made an expedition
among the Eock Eiver bands, to argue and persuade
them into remaining tranquil.
The few citizens of Chicago in these days, lived for
the most part a very quiet unvaried life. The great
abundance of game, and the immense fertility of the
lands they cultivated, furnished them with a super-
abundance of all the luxuries of garden, corn-field, and
dairy. The question was once asked by a friend in
the " east countrie :"
" How do you dispose of all the good things you
raise? You have no market?" "No." "And you
cannot consume it all yourselves?" "No." "What
then do you do with it?"
" Why, we manage, when a vessel arrives to per-
suade the Captain to accept a few kegs of butter, and
256 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
stores of corn and vegetables, as a present, and that
helps us to get rid of some of it."
The mails arrived, as may be supposed, at very
rare intervals. They were brought occasionally from
Fort Clark (Peoria), but more frequently from Fort
"Wayne, or across the peninsula of Michigan which
was still a wilderness peopled with savages. The
hardy adventurer who acted as express was, not un-
frequently, obliged to imitate the birds of heaven and
" lodge among the branches," in order to ensure the
safety of himself and his charge.
Yisitors were very rare, unless it was a friend who
came to sojourn some time, and share a life in the
wilderness. A traveller, however, occasionally found
his way to the spot, in passing to or from " parts un-
known," and such a one was sure of a hospitable and
hearty welcome.
A gentleman journeying from the southern settle-
ments once arrived late in the evening at Wolf Point,
where was then the small establishment of George
Hunt and a Mr. "Wallace. He stopped and inquired
if he could have accommodation for the night for him-
self and his horse. The answer was, that they were
ill provided to entertain a stranger the house was
small, and they were keeping " bachelor's hall."
" Is there no place," inquired the traveller, " where
I can obtain a lodging?"
" Oh ! yes you will find a very comfortable house,
CAPTIVITY OF J. KINZIE, SENIOK. 257
Mr. Kinzie's, about lialf a mile below, near the mouth
of the river."
The stranger turned his horse's head and took the
road indicated. Arrived at the spot, his first inquiry
was:
"Is this the residence of Mr. Kinzie?"
"Yes, sir."
" I should be glad to get accommodation for myself
and horse."
" Certainly, sir walk in."
The horse was taken to the stable, while the gentle-
man was ushered into a parlor where were two ladies.
The usual preliminary questions and answers were
gone through, for in a new country people soon become
acquainted, and the gentlemen ere long found himself
seated at a comfortable hot supper we will venture
to say a fine supper since the table in this domestic
establishment has always been somewhat famous.
Apparently, the gentlemen enjoyed it, for he made
himself quite at home. He even called for a boot-jack
after tea, and drew off his boots. The ladies were a
little surprised, but they had lived a good while out of
the world, and they did not know what changes in
etiquette might have taken place during their retire-
ment.
Before taking his leave for the night, the traveller
signified what it would please him to have for break-
fast, which was duly prepared. The next day proved
258 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
stormy. The gentleman was satisfied with his quar-
ters, and having taken care to ascertain that there was
no neglect, or deficiency of accommodation so far as
his horse was concerned, he got through the day very
comfortably.
Now and then, when he was tired of reading, he
would converse with the family, and seemed, upon the
whole, by no means disposed to hold himself aloof,
but to indulge in a little becoming sociability, seeing
they were all there away in the woods.
The second day the weather brightened. The trav-
eller signified his intention to depart. He ordered his
horse to the door then he called for his bill.
" My house is not a tavern, sir," was the astounding
reply.
" Not a tavern I Good heavens ! have I been mak-
ing myself at home in this manner in a private family?"
The gentleman was profuse in his apologies, which,
however, were quite unnecessary, for the family had
perceived from the first, the mistake he had fallen into,
and they had amused themselves during his whole
visit in anticipating the consternation of their guest
when he should be undeceived.
It was in the year 1816 (the same year of the rebuild-
ing of the fort, after its destruction by the Indians),
that the tract of land on which Chicago stands, together
CAPTIVITY OP J. KESTZIE, SENIOR. 259
with the surrounding country, was ceded to the United
States, by the Pottowattamies. They remained the
peaceful occupants of it, however, for twenty years
longer. It was not until 1836 that they were removed
by Government to lands appropriated for their use on
the Upper Missouri.
In the year 1830 the town of Chicago was laid out
into lots by commissioners appointed by the State. * At
this time the prices of these lots ranged from ten to
sixty dollars.
Mr. Kinzie, who from the geographical position of
this place, and the vast fertility of the surrounding
country, had always foretold its eventual prosperity
and importance, was not permitted to witness the
realisation of his predictions. He closed his useful
and energetic life on the 6th of January, 1828, having
just completed his sixty-fifth year.
CHAPTER XXI.
A SERMON.
CHICAGO was not, at the period of my first visit, the
cheerful, happy place it had once been. The death of Dr.
Wolcott, of Lieut. Furman, and of a promising young
son of Mr. Beaubien, all within a few weeks of each
other, had thrown a gloom over all the different
branches of the social circle.
The weather, too, was inclement and stormy, beyond
anything that had been known before. Only twice,
during a period of two months, did the sun shine out
through the entire day. So late as the second week in
April, when my husband had left to return to Fort Win-
nebago, the storms were so severe, that he and his
men were obliged to lie by two or three days in an
Indian lodge.
Eobert Kinzie, Medard Beaubien, and Billy Caldwell
had gone at the same time to the Calumet to hunt, and
as they did not make their appearance for many days,
we were persuaded they had perished with cold. They
returned at length, however, to our infinite joy, having
only escaped freezing by the forethought of Eobert
and Caldwell, in carrying each two blankets instead of
one.
860
A SERMON. 261
Our only recreation was an occasional ride on horse-
back when the weather would permit, through the
woods on the north side of the river, or across the
prairie, along the lake shore on the south.
When we went in the former direction, a little bri-
dle-path took us along what is now Rush street. The
thick boughs of the trees arched over our heads, and
we were often compelled, as we rode, to break away
the projecting branches of the shrubs which impeded
our path. The little prairie west of Wright's Woods,
was the usual termination of our ride in this direction.
When we chose the path across the prairie towards
the south, we generally passed Dr. Harmon, superin-
tending the construction of a sod fence, at a spot he had
chosen, near the shore of the lake. In this inclosure
he occupied himself, as the season advanced, in plant-
ing fruit stones of all descriptions, to make ready a
garden and orchard for future enjoyment.
We usually stopped to have a little chat. The two
favorite themes of the Doctor were horticulture, and
the certain future importance of Chicago. That it was
destined to be a great city, was his unalterable convic-
tion ; and indeed, by this time, all forest and prairie as
it was, we half began to believe it ourselves.
On the pleasant afternoons which we occasionally
, enjoyed as the season advanced, we found no small
amusement in practising pistol-firing. The place ap-
propriated to this sport was* outside the pickets, the
262 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
mark being placed on a panel in one of the bastions.
The gentlemen must not be offended if I record that,
in process of time, the ladies acquired a degree of skill
that enabled them, as a general thing, to come off tri-
umphant. One of the ladies was a great shot, having
brought down her grouse on the wing, to the no small
delight of Capain Scott with regard to the others
I am afraid it was more politeness than want of
skill, which induced the gentlemen to yield the palm
to them.
Now and then there was a little excitement within
the fort, aroused by the discovery that a settler had
been engaged in selling milk-punch, instead of milk, to
the soldiers, thereby interfering in no small degree
with the regularity and perfect discipline of the ser-
vice. The first step was to "drum out" the offender
with all the honors of war that is, with a party-
colored dress, and the Eogue's March played behind
him. The next, to place all the victims of this piece
of deception in the guard-house, where the Command-
ing Officer's lady supplied them bountifully with coffee
and hot cakes, by way of opening their eyes to the
enormity of their offence. It is not to be wondered at
that the officers sometimes complained of its being
more of a strife with the soldiers who should get into
the guard-house, than who should keep out of it. The
poor fellows knew when they were well off.
Once, upon a Sunday, we were rowed up to "the
A SEEMON. 263
point" to attend a religious service, conducted by Fa-
ther S , as lie was called.
"We saw a tall, slender man, dressed in a green frock
coat, from the sleeves of which dangled a pair of hands
giving abundant evidence, together with the rest of his
dress, that he placed small faith in the axiom " clean-
liness is a part of holiness."
He stepped briskly upon a little platform behind a
table, and commenced his discourse. His subject was,
" The fear of God."
" There was a kind of fear," he told us, "that was
very nearly afee-a-nated to love : so nearly, that it was
not worth while splitting hairs for the difference." He
then went on to describe this kind of fear. He grew
more and more involved as he proceeded with his de-
scription, until at length, quite bewildered, he paused
and exclaimed, "Come, lets stop a little while, and
clear away the brush." He unravelled, as well as he
was able, the tangled thread of his ideas, and went on
with his subject. But soon again losing his way, he
came to a second halt. "Now," said he, wiping the
perspiration from his forehead with a red cotton hand-
kerchief many degrees from clean, " now, suppose we
drive back a little piece." Thus he recapitulated what
he wished to impress upon us, of the necessity of cher-
ishing a fear that maketh wise unto salvation, " which
fear," said he, "may we all enjoy, that together we
may soar away, on the rolling clouds of aether, to a
264 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
boundless and nappy eternity, which is the wish of
your humble servant." And, flourishing abroad his
hands, with the best of dancing-school bows, he took
seat.
It wiD. be readily imagined that we felt our own
religious exercises at home to be more edifying than
such as this, and that we confined ourselves to them
for the future.
The return of our brother, Robert Kinzie, from Pal-
estine (not the Holy Land, but the seat of the Land
Office), with the certificate of the title of the family to
that portion. of Chicago since known as "Kinzie's
Addition," was looked upon as establishing a home
for us at some future day, if the glorious dreams of
good Dr. Harmon, and a few others, should come to be
realized. One little incident will show how moderate
were, in fact the anticipations of most persons at that
period.
The certificate, which was issued in Robert's name,
he representing the family in making the application,
described only a fractional quarter section of one hun-
dred and two acres, instead of one hundred and sixty
acres, the river and Lake Michigan cutting off" fifty-
eight acres on the southern and eastern lines of the
quarter. The applicants had liberty to select their
compliment of fifty-eight acres out of any unappropri-
ated land that suited them.
"Now, my son," said his mother, to Robert, "lay
A SEEMON. 265
your claim on the cornfield at Wolf Point. It is fine
land, and will always be valuable for cultivation
besides, as it faces down the main river, the situation
will always be a convenient one."
The answer was a hearty laugh. " Hear mother,"
said Eobert. " We have just got a hundred and two
acres more than we shall ever want, or know what
to do with, and now she would have me go and claim
fifty-eight acres more !"
" Take my advice, my boy," repeated his mother "or
you may live one day to regret it."
"Well, I cannot see how I can ever regret not getting
more than we can possibly make use of." And so the
matter ended. The fifty-eight acres were never claimed,
and there was, I think, a very general impression that
asking for our just rights in the case would have a
very grasping, covetous, look. How much wiser five-
and twenty years have made us ! .
During my sojourn of two months at Chicago, our
mother often entertained me with stories of her early
life and adventures. The following is her history
of her captivity among the Senecas, which I have put
in the form of a tale, although without the slightest
variation from the facts as I received them from her
lips, and those of her sister, Mrs. William Forsyth, of
Sandwich (0. W.), the little Maggie of the story.
12
CHAPTER XXII.
THE CAPTIVES.
IT is well known that previous to the war of the
Eevolution, the whole of the western portion of Penn-
sylvania was inhabited chiefly by different Indian
tribes. Of these, the Delawares were the friends of the
whites, and after the commencement of the great strug-
gle, took part with the United States. The Iroquois,
on the contrary, were the friends and allies of the
mother country.
Very few white settlers had ventured beyond the
Susquehannah. The numerous roving bands of Shawa-
noes, Nanticokes, &c., although sometimes professing
friendship with the Americans, and acting in concert
with the Delawares or Lenape as allies, at others, suf-
fered themselves to be seduced by their neighbors, the
Iroquois, to show a most sanguinary spirit of hostility.
For this reason, the life of the inhabitants of the
frontier was one of constant peril and alarm. Many
a scene of dismal barbarity was enacted, as the history
of the times testifies, and even those who felt them-
selves in some measure protected by their immediate
neighbors, the Delawares, never lost sight of the cau-
tion required by their exposed situation.
(266)
THE CAPTIVES. 267
The vicinity of the military garrison at Pittsburgh,
or Fort Pitt, as it was then called, gave additional
security to those who had pushed further west, among
the fertile valleys of the Alleghany and Monongohela.
Among these were the family of Mr. Lytle, who, about
two years previous to the opening of our story, had
removed from Path Valley, near Carlisle, and settled
himself on the banks of Plum Eiver, a tributary of the
Alleghany. Here, with his wife and five children, he
had continued to live in comfort and security, undis-
turbed by any hostile visit, and only annoyed by occa-
sional false alarms from his more timorous neighbors,
who having had more experience in frontier life, were
prone to anticipate evil, as well as to magnify every
appearance of danger.
On a bright afternoon in the autumn of 1779, two
children of Mr. Lytle, a girl of nine, and her brother,
two years younger, were playing in a little dingle
or hollow in the rear of their father's house. Some
large trees, which had been recently felled, were lying
here and there, still untrimmed of their branches,
and many logs, prepared for fuel, were scattered
around. Upon one of these the children, wearied with
their sports, seated themselves, and to beguile the time
they fell into conversation upon a subject that greatly
perplexed them.
268 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
While playing in the same place a few hours pre-
vious, they had imagined they saw an Indian linking
behind one of the fallen trees. The Indians of the
neighborhood were in the habit of making occasional
visits to the family, and they had become familiar and
even affectionate with many of them, but this seemed
a stranger, and after the first hasty glance they fled in
alarm to the house.
Their mother chid them for the report they brought,
which she endeavored to convince them was without
foundation. " You know," said she, " you are always
alarming us unnecessarily the neighbors' children
have frightened you to death. Go back to your play
and learn to be more courageous."
So the children returned to their sports, hardly per-
suaded by their mother's arguments. While they
were thus seated upon the trunk of the tree, their dis-
course was interrupted by the note, apparently, of a
quail not far off.
" Listen," said the boy, as a second note answered
the first, " do you hear that?"
"Yes," was the reply, and after a few moments'
silence, " do you not hear a rustling among the branches
of the tree yonder?"
" Perhaps it is a squirrel but look ! what is that ?
Surely I saw something red among the branches. It
looked like a fawn popping up its head."
At this moment, the children who had been gazing
THE CAPTIVES. 269
so intently in the direction of the fallen tree that all
other objects were forgotten, felt themselves seized
from behind and pinioned in an iron grasp. What
were their horror and dismay to find themselves in the
arms of savages, whose terrific countenances and ges
tures plainly showed them to be enemies !
They made signs to the children to be silent, on pain
of death, and hurried them off, half dead with terror,
in a direction leading from their father's habitation.
After travelling some distance in profound silence, the
severity of their captors somewhat relaxed, and as night
approached the party halted, after adopting the usual
precautions to secure themselves against a surprise.
In an agony of uncertainty and terror, torn from
their beloved home and parents, and anticipating all
the horrors with which the rumors of the times had
invested a captivity among the Indians perhaps even
a torturing death the poor children could no longer
restrain their grief, but gave vent to sobs and lamen-
tations.
Their distress appeared to excite the compassion of
one of the party, a man of mild aspect, who approached
and endeavored to soothe them. He spread them a
couch of the long grass which grew near the encamp-
ing place, offered them a portion of his own stock of
dried meat and parched corn, and gave them to under-
understand by signs that no further evil was intended
them.
270 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
These kindly demonstrations were interrupted by
the arrival of another party of the enemy, bringing
with them the mother of the little prisoners with her
youngest child, an infant of three months old.
It had so happened that the father of the family,
with his serving-men, had gone early in the day to a
raising at a few miles' distance, and the house had thus
been left without a defender. The long period of
tranquillity which they had enjoyed, free from all
molestation or alarm from the savages, had quite
thrown them off their guard, and they had recently
laid aside some of the caution they had formerly found
necessary.
These Indians, by lying in wait, had found the
favorable moment for seizing the defenceless family
and making them prisoners. Judging from their paint,
and other marks by which the early settlers learned
to distinguish the various tribes, Mrs. Lytle conjec-
tured that those into whose hands she and her children
had fallen were Senecas. Nor was she mistaken. It
was a party of that tribe who had descended from their
village with the intention of falling upon some isolated
band of their enemies, the Delawares, but failing in
this, had made themselves amends by capturing a few
white settlers.
It is to be attributed to the generally mild disposi-
tion of this tribe, together with the magnanimous
character of the chief who accompanied the party,
THE CAPTIVES. 271
that their prisoners in the present instance escaped the
fate of most of the Americans who were so unhappy as
to fall into the hands of the Iroquois.
The children learned from their mother that she was
profoundly ignorant of the fate of their remaining
brother and sister, a boy of six and a little girl of four
years of age, but she was in hopes they had made good
their escape with the servant girl, who had likewise
disappeared from the commencement.
After remaining a few hours to recruit the exhausted
frames of the prisoners, the savages again started on
their march, one of the older Indians proffering to
relieve the mother from the burden of her infant, which
she had hitherto carried in her arms. Pleased with
the unexpected kindness, she resigned to him her tender
charge.
Thus they pursued their way, the savage who car-
ried the infant lingering somewhat behind the rest of
the party, until finding a spot convenient for his pur-
pose, he grasped his innocent victim by the feet, and
with one whirl, to add strength to the blow, dashed
out its brains against a tree. Leaving the body upon
the spot, he rejoined the party.
The mother, unsuspicious of what had passed,
regarded him earnestly as he reappeared without the
child then gazed wildly around on the rest of the
group. Her beloved little one was not there. Its
absence spoke its fate, yet, suppressing the shriek of
272 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
agony, for she knew that the lives of the remaining
ones depended upon her firmness in that trying hour,
she drew them yet closer to her and pursued her
melancholy way without a word spoken or a question
asked.
From the depths of her heart she cried unto Him
who is able to save, and He comforted her with hopes
of deliverance for the surviving ones, for she saw that
if blood had been their sole object the scalps of herself
and her children would have been taken upon the spot
where they were made prisoners.
She read too in the eyes of one who was evidently
the commander of the party an expression more mer-
ciful than she had even dared to hope. Particularly
had she observed his soothing manner and manifest
partiality towards her eldest child, the little girl of
whom we have spoken, and she built many a bright
hope of escape or ransom upon, these slender foun-
dations.
After a toilsome and painful march of many days,
the party reached the Seneca village, upon the head-
waters of the Allegany, near what is now called Olean
Point. On their arrival the chief, their conductor, who
was distinguished by the name of the Big- White-Man*
* Although this is the name our mother preserved of her bene-
factor, it seems evident that this chief was in fact Corn-Planter, a
personage well known in the history of the times. There could
hardly have been two such prominent chiefs in the same village.
THE CAPTIVES. 273
led his prisoners to the principal lodge. This was oc-
cupied by his mother, the widow of the head-chief of
that band, and who was called by them the Old Queen.
On entering her presence, her son presented her the
little girl, saying :
"My mother I bring you a child to supply the
place of my brother, who was killed by the Lenape six
moons ago. She shall dwell in my lodge, and be to
me a sister. Take the white woman and her children
and treat them kindly our father will give us many
horses and guns to buy them back again."
He referred to the British Indian agent of his tribe,
Col. Johnson, an excellent and benevolent gentleman,
who resided at Fort Niagara, on the British side of the
river of that name.
The old queen fulfilled the injunctions of her son.
She received the prisoners, and every comfort was pro-
vided them that her simple and primitive mode of life
rendered possible.
We must now return to the place and period at
which our story commences.
Late in the evening of that day the father returned
to his dwelling. All within and around was silent and
desolate. No trace of a living creature was to be found
throughout the house or grounds. His nearest neigh-
274 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
bors lived at a considerable distance, but to them lie
hastened, frantically demanding tidings of his family.
As he aroused them from their slumbers, one and
another joined him in the search, and at length, at the
house of one of them, was found the servant-maid who
had effected her escape. Her first place of refuge, she
said, had been a large brewing-tub in an outer kitchen,
tinder which she had, at the first alarm, secreted her-
self until the departure of the Indians, who were evi-
dently in haste, gave her an opportunity of fleeing to
a place of safety. She could give no tidings of her
mistress and the children, except that they had not
been murdered in her sight or hearing.
At length, having scoured the neighborhood without
success, Mr. Lytle remembered an old settler who lived
alone, far up the valley. Thither he and his friends
immdediately repaired, and from him they learned that,
being at work in his field just before sunset, he had
seen' a party of strange Indians passing at a short dis-
tance from his cabin. As they wound along the brow
of the hill, he could perceive that they had prisoners
with them a woman and child. The woman he
knew to be a white, as she carried her infant in her
arms instead of upon her back, after the manner of the
savages.
Day had now begun to break, for the night had been
passed in fruitless researches, and the agonized father
after a consultation with his kind friends and neigh-
THE CAPTIVES. 275
bors, accepted their offer to accompany him to Fort Pitt
to ask advice and assistance of the Commandant and
Indian Agent at that place.
Proceeding down the valley, as they approached a
hut which, the night before they had found apparently
deserted, they were startled by observing two children
standing upon the high bank in front of it. The de-
lighted father recognized two of his missing flock, but
no tidings could they give him of their mother and the
other lost ones. Their story was simple and touching.
They were playing in the garden, when they were
alarmed by seeing the Indians enter the yard near the
house. Unperceived by them, the brother who was
but six years of age, helped his little sister over
the fence into a field overrun with bushes of the black-
berry and wild raspberry. They concealed themselves
among these for a while, and then, finding all quiet,
they attempted to force their way to the side of the
field furthest from the house. Unfortunately the little
girl in her play in the garden had pulled off her shoes
and stockings, and the briars tearing and wunding her
tender feet, she with difficulty could refrain from cry-
ing out. Her brother took off his stockings and put
them on her feet. He attempted, too, to protect them
with his shoes, but they were too large, and kept slip-
ping off, so that she could not wear them. For a time,
they persevered in making what they considered their
escape from certain death, for, as I have said, the child-
276 THE EARLY DAY IS THE NORTH-WEST.
ren had been taught by the tales they had heard to re-
gard all strange Indians as ministers of torture, and of
horrors worse than death. Exhausted with pain and
fatigue, the poor little girl at length declared she could
go no further.
"Then, Maggie," said her brother, "I must kill you,
for I cannot let you be killed by the Indians."
"Oh! no, Thomas," pleaded she, "do not, pray do
not kill me I do not think the Indians will find us !"
" Oh ! yes they will, Maggie, and I could kill you
so much easier than they would I"
For a long time he endeavored to persuade her, and
even looked about for a stick sufficiently large for his
purpose, but despair gave the little creature strength,
and she promised her brother that she would neither
complain nor falter, if he would assist her in making
her way out of the field.
The idea of the little boy that he could save his
sister from savage barbarity by taking her life himself,
shows what tales of horror the children of the early
settlers were familiar with.
After a few more efforts they made their way out of
the field, into an unenclosed pasture-ground, where to
their great delight they saw some cows feeding. They
recognized them as belonging to Granny Myers, an old
woman who lived at some little distance, but in what
direction from the place they then were, they were
utterly ignorant.
THE CAPTIVE. 277
With a sagacity beyond his years, the boy said :
"Let us hide ourselves till sunset, when the cows
will go home, and we will follow them."
They did so, but to their dismay, when they reached
Granny Myers' they found the house deserted. The
old woman had been called by some business down the
valley and did not return that night.
Tired and hungry they could go no further, but after
an almost fruitless endeavor to get some milk from the
cows, they laid themselves down to sleep under an old
bedstead that stood behind the house. Their father-
and his party had caused them additional terror in the
night. The shouts and calls which had been designed
to arouse the inmates of the house, they had mistaken
for the whoop of the Indians, and not being able to
distinguish friends from foes, they had crept close to
one another, as far out of sight as possible. When
found the following morning, they were debating what
course to take next, for safety.
The commandant at Fort Pitt entered warmly into
the affairs of Mr. Lytle, and readily furnished htm with
a detachment of soldiers, to aid him and his friends in
the pursuit of the marauders. Some circumstances
having occurred to throw suspicion upon the Senecas,
the party soon directed their search among the villages
of that tribe.
Their inquiries were prosecuted in various directions,
and always with great caution, for all the tribes of the
12
THE EARLY DAY IN THE FORTH-WEST.
Iroquois, or, as they pompously called themselves, the
Five Nations, being allies of Great Britain, were con-
sequently inveterate in their hostility to the Americans.
Thus, some time had elapsed before the father with his
attendants reached the village of the Big- White-Man.
A treaty was immediately entered into for the ran-
som of the captives, which was easily accomplished in
regard to Mrs. Lytle and the younger child. But no
offers, no entreaties, no promises, could procure the re-
lease of the little Eleanor, the adopted child of the
'tribe. "No," the chief said, "she was his sister;
he had taken her to supply the place of his brother
who was killed by the enemy she was dear to him,
and he would not part with her."
Finding every effort unavailing to shake this reso-
lution the father was at length compelled to take his
sorrowful departure with such of his beloved ones as
he had had the good fortune to recover.
"We will not attempt to depict the grief of parents
compelled thus to give up a darling child, and to leave
her in the hands of savages, whom until now they had
too much reason to regard as merciless. But there was
no alternative. Commending her to the care of their
Heavenly Father, and cheered by the manifest tender-
ness with which she had thus far been treated, they
sat out on their melancholy journey homeward, trust-
ing that some future effort would be more effectual for
the recovery of their little girl.
THE CAPTIVE. 279
Having placed his family in safety at Pittsburg, Mr.
Lytle, still assisted by the Commandant and the Indian
Agent, undertook an expedition to the frontier to the
residence of the British agent, Col. Johnson. His rep-
resentation of the case warmly interested the feelings
of that benevolent officer, who promised him to spare
no exertions in his behalf. This promise he religiously
performed. He went in person to the village of the
Big- White-Man, as soon as the opening of the spring
permitted, and offered him many splendid presents of
guns and horses, but the chief was inexorable.
Time rolled on, and every year the hope of recover-
ing the little captive became more faint. She, in the
meantime, continued to wind herself more and more
closely around the heart of her Indian brother. Noth-
ing could exceed the consideration and affection with
which she was treated, not only by himself, but by his
mother, the Old Queen. All their stock of brooches
and wampum was employed in the decoration of her
person. The principal seat and the most delicate viands
were invariably reserved for her, and no efforts were
spared to promote her happiness, and to render her for-
getful of her former home and kindred.
Thus, though she had beheld, with a feeling almost
amounting to despair, the departure of her parents and
dear little brother, and had for a long time resisted
every attempt at consolation, preferring even death to
a life of separation from all she loved, yet time, as it
280 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
ever does, brought its soothing balm, and she at length
grew contented and happy.
From her activity and the energy of her character,
qualities for which she was remarkable to the latest
period of her life, the name was given her of The Ship
under full sail.
The only drawback to the happiness of the little
prisoner, aside from her longings after her own dear
home, was the enmity she encountered from the wife
of the Big- White-Man. This woman, from the day of
her arrival at the village, and adoption into the family
as a sister, had conceived for her the greatest animosity,
which, at first, she had the prudence to conceal from
the observation of her husband.
It was perhaps natural that a wife should give way
to some feelings of jealousy at seeing her own place
in the heart of her husband usurped, as she imagined,
by the child of their enemy, the American. But these
feelings were aggravated by a bad and vindictive tem-
per, and by the indifference with which her husband
listened to her complaints and murmurings.
As she had no children of her own to engage her
attention, her mind was the more engrossed and in-
flamed with her fancied wrongs, and with devising
means for their address. An opportunity of attempt-
ing the latter was not long wanting.
THE CAPTIVES. 281
During the absence of the Big- White-Man upon
some war-party, or hunting excursion, his little sister
was taken ill with fever and ague. She was nursed with
the utmost tenderness by the Old Queen, arid the wife
of the chief, to lull suspicion, and thereby accomplish
her purpose, was likewise unwearied in her assiduities
to the little favorite.
One afternoon, during the temporary absence of the
old Queen, her daughter-in-law entered the lodge with
a bowl of something she had prepared, and stooping
down to the mat on which the child lay, said, in an
affectionate accent,
" Drink, my sister, I have brought you that which
will drive this fever far from you."
On raising her head to reply, the little girl perceived
a pair of eyes peeping through a crevice in the lodge,
and fixed upon her with a very peculiar and significant
expression. With the quick perception acquired partly
from nature, and partly from her intercourse with this
people, she replied faintly,
" Set it down, my sister. When this fit of the fever
has passed, I will drink your medicine."
The squaw, too cautious to use importunity, busied
herself about in the lodge for a short time, then with-
drew to another, near at hand. Meantime, the bright
eyes continued peering through the opening, until they
had watched their object fairly out of sight, then a
282 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
low voice, the voice of a young friend and play-fellow
spoke,
" Do not drink that, which, your brother's wife has
brought you. She hates you, and is only waiting an
opportunity to rid herself of you. I have watched her
all the morning, and have seen her gathering the most
deadly herbs. I knew for whom they were intended,
and came hither to warn you."
"Take the bowl," said the little invalid, "and carry
it to my mother's lodge."
This was accordingly done. The contents of the
bowl were found to consist principally of a decoction,
of the root of the May-apple, the most deadly poison
known among the Indians.
It is not in the power of language to describe the in-
dignation that pervaded the little community whea
this discovery was made known. The squaws ran to
and fro, as is their custom when excited, each vying
with the other in heaping invectives upon the culprit.
No further punishment was, however, for the present
inflicted upon her, but the first burst of rage over, she
was treated with silent abhorrence.
The little patient was removed to the lodge of the
Old Queen, and strictly guarded, while her enemy was
left to wander in silence and solitude about the fields
and woods, until the return of her husband should
determine her punishment.
THE CAPTIVES. 283
In a few days, the excursion being over, the Big-
White-Man and his party returned to the village. Con-
trary to the usual custom of savages, he did not, in his
first transport at learning the attempt on the life of his
little sister, take summary vengeance on the offender.
He contented himself with banishing her from his lodge,
never to return, and condemning her to hoe corn in a
distant part of the large field or enclosure which served
the whole community for a garden.
Although she would still show her vindictive dispo-
sition whenever, by chance, the little girl with her
companions wandered into that vicinity by striking
at her with her hoe, or by some other spiteful manifes-
tation, yet she was either too well watched, or stood too
much in awe of her former husband to repeat the at-
tempt upon his sister's life.
Four years had now elapsed since the capture of
little Nelly. Her heart was by nature warm and affec-
tionate, so that the unbounded tenderness of those she
dwelt among had called forth a corresponding feeling
of affection in her heart. She regarded the Chief and
his mother with love and reverence, and had so com-
pletely learned their language and customs as almost
to have forgotten her own.
So identified had she become with the tribe, that the
remembrance of her home and family had nearly faded
284 THE EABLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST,
from her memory; all but lier mother her mother
whom she had loved with a strength of affection na-
tural to her warm and ardent character, and to whom
her heart still clung with a fondness that no time or
change could destroy.
The peace of 1783 between Great Britain and the
United States now took place. A general pacification
of the Indian tribes was the consequence, and fresh
hopes were renewed in the bosoms of Mr. and Mrs.
Lytle.
They removed with their family to Fort Niagara,
near which, on the American side, was the great Council
Fire of the Senecas. Col. Johnson readily undertook a
fresh negociation with the Chief, but in order to ensure
every chance of success, he again proceeded in person
to the village of the Big- White-Man.
His visit was most opportune. It was the " Feast
of the Green Corn," when he arrived among them.
This observance which corresponds so strikingly with
the Jewish feast of Tabernacles that, together with
other customs, it has led many to believe the Indian
nations the descendants of the lost ten tribes of Israel,
made it a season of general joy and festivity. All other
occupations were suspended to give place to social en-
joyment in the open air, or in arbors formed of the
green branches of the trees. Every one appeared in
his gala dress. That of the little adopted child con-
sisted of a petticoat of blue broadcloth, bordered with
THE CAPTIVES. 285
gay-colored ribbons ; a sack or upper garment of black
silk, ornamented with three rows of silver brooches, the
centre ones from the throat to the hem being of large
size, and those from the shoulders down being no
larger than a shilling-piece, and set as closely as pos-
sible. Around her neck were innumerable strings of
white and purple wampum, an Indian ornament manu-
factured from the inner surface of the muscle-shell.
Her hair was clubbed behind, and loaded with beads
of various colors. Leggings of scarlet cloth, and moc-
casins of deer-skin embroidered with porcupine quills,
completed her costume.
Col. Johnson was received with all the consideration
due to his position, and to the long friendship that had
subsisted between him and the tribe.
Observing that the hilarity of the festival had warmed
and opened all hearts, he took occasion in an interview
with the chief to expatiate upon the parental affection
which had led the father and mother of his little sister
to give up their friends and home, and come hundreds
of miles away, in the single hope of sometimes looking
upon and embracing her. The heart 'of the chief soft-
ened as he listened to this representation, and he was
induced to promise that at the Grand Council soon to
be held at Fort Niagara he would attend, bringing his
little sister with him.
He exacted a promise, however, from Col. Johnson,
that not only no effort should be made to reclaim the
286 THE EARLY DAY IK THE NORTH-WEST.
child, but that even no proposition to part with her
should be offered him.
The time at length arrived when, her heart bound-
ing with joy, little Nelly was placed on horseback to
accompany her Indian brother to the great Council of
the Senecas. She had promised him that she would
never leave him without his permission, and he relied
confidently on her word thus given.
As the chiefs and warriors arrived in successive
bands to meet their father, the agent, at the council-fire,
how did the anxious hearts of the parents beat with
alternate hope and fear ! The officers of the fort had
kindly given them quarters for the time being, and the
ladies, whose sympathies were strongly excited, had
accompanied the mother to the place of council, and
joined in her longing watch for the first appearance
of the band from the Alleghany river.
At length they were discerned, emerging from the
forest on the opposite or American side. Boats were
sent across by the Commanding Officer, to bring the
chief and his party. The father and mother, attended
by all the officers and ladies, stood upon the grassy
bank awaiting their approach. They had seen at a
glance that the little captive was with them.
When about to enter the boat, the chief said to some
of his young men, "stand here with the horses, and
wait until I return."
He was told that the horses should be ferried across
and taken care of.
t
THE CAPTIVES. 287
"No," said he, "let them wait."
He held his darling by the hand until the river
was passed until the boat touched the bank until
the child sprang forward into the arms of the mother
from whom she had been so long separated.
When the Chief witnessed that outburst of affection
he could withstand no longer.
" She shall go," said he. " The mother must have
her child again. I will go back alone."
With one silent gesture of farewell he turned and
stepped on board the boat. No arguments or en-
treaties could induce him to remain at the council, but
having gained the other side of the Niagara, he
mounted his horse, and with his young men was soon
lost in the depths of the forest.
After a sojourn of a few weeks at Niagara, Mr. Lytle,
dreading lest the resolution of the Big- White-Man
should give way, and measures be taken to deprive
him once more of his child, came to the determination
of again changing his place of abode. He therefore took
the first opportunity of crossing Lake Erie with his
family, and settled himself in the neighbourhood of
Detroit, where he continued afterward to reside.
Little Nelly saw her friend the Chief no more, but
she never forgot him. To the day of her death she
remembered with tenderness and gratitude her brother
the Big- White-Man, and her friends and playfellows
among the Senecas.
CHAPTER XXIII.
SECOND SIQHT HICKORY CREEK.
AT the age of fourteen the heroine of the foregoing
story married Captain McKillip, a British officer. This
gentleman was killed near Fort Defiance, as it was after-
ward called, at the Miami Eapids, in 1794. A detach-
ment of British troops had been sent down from De-
troit, to take possession of this post. Gen. Wayne was
then on a campaign against the Indians, and the British
Government thought proper to make a few demonstra-
tions in behalf of their allies. Having gone out with
a party to reconnoitre, Captain McKillip was returning
to his post after dark, when he was fired upon and killed
by one of his own sentinels. Mrs. Helm was the
daughter of this marriage.
During the widowhood of Mrs. McKillip she resided
with her parents at Grosse Pointe, eight miles above
Detroit, and it was during this period that an event
occurred, which, from the melancholy and mysterious
circumstances attending it, was always dwelt upon by
her with peculiar interest.
Her second brother, Thomas Lytle, was, from his
amiable and affectionate character, the most dearly be-
(288)
SECOND SIGHT HICKORY CEEEK. 289
loved by her of all the numerous family circle. He
was paying his addresses to a young lady who resided
at the river Trench,* as it was then called, now the
river Thames, a stream emptying into Lake St. Clair,
about twenty miles above Detroit. In visiting this
young lady, it was his custom to cross the Detroit river
by the ferry with his horse, and then proceed by land
to the river Trench, which was, at some seasons of the
year, a fordable stream.
On a fine forenoon, late in the spring, he had taken
leave of his mother and sister for one of these periodical
visits, which were usually of two or three days' duration
After dinner, as his sister was sitting at work by an
open window which looked upon a little side enclosure
filled with fruit-trees, she was startled by observing
some object opposite the window, between her and the
light. She raised her eyes and saw her brother Thomas.
He was without his horse, and carried his saddle upon
his shoulders.
Surprised that she had not heard the gate opening
for his entrance, and also at his singular appearance,
laden in that manner, she addressed him, and inquired
what had happened, and why he had returned so soon. *
He made her no reply, but looked earnestly in her
face, as he moved slowly along the paved walk that
led to the stables.
* From the French Tranche, a deep cut.
18
290 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
She waited a few moments expecting he would re-
appear to give an account of himself and his adven-
tures, but at length, growing impatient at his delay, she
put down her work and went towards the rear of the
house to find him.
The first person she met was her mother. " Have
you seen Thomas ?" she inquired.
" Thomas ! He has gone to the Eiver Trench."
" No, he has returned I saw him pass the window
not fifteen minutes since."
"Then he will be in presently."
His sister, however, could not wait. She proceeded
to the stables, she searched in all directions. No
Thomas no horse no saddle. She made inquiry of
the domestics. No one had seen him. She then re-
turned and told her mother what had happened.
"You must have fallen asleep and dreamed it," said
her mother.
" No, indeed ! I was wide awake I spoke to him,
and he gave me no answer, but such a look I"
All the afternoon she felt an uneasiness she could not
reason herself out of.
The next morning came a messenger from the Eiver
Trench with dismal tidings.
The bodies of the young man and his horse had been
found drowned a short distance below the ford of the
river.
It appeared that on arriving at the bank of the river,
SECOND SIGHT HICKORY CREEK. 291
he found it swollen beyond jts usual depth by the re-
cent rains. It being necessary to swim the stream with
his horse, he had taken off his clothes and made them
into a packet which he fastened upon his shoulders.
It was supposed that the strength of the rapid torrent
displaced the bundle which thus served to draw his
head under water and keep it there, without the power
of raising it. All this was gathered from the position
and appearance of the bodies when found.
From the time at which he had been seen passing a
house which stood near the stream, on his way to the
ford, it was evident that he must have met his fate at
the very moment his sister saw, or thought she saw
him, passing before her.
I could not but suggest the inquiry, when these sad
particulars were narrated to me.
" Mother, is it not possible this might have been a
dream ?"
" A dream ? No, indeed my child. I was perfectly
wide awake as much so, as I am at this moment. I
am not superstitious. I have never believed in ghosts
or witches, but nothing can ever persuade me that this
was not a warning sent from God, to prepare me for
my brother's death."
And those who knew her rational good sense her
freedom from fancies or fears, and the calm self-posses-
sion that never deserted her under the most trying
292 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
circumstances, would almost be won to view the mat-
ter in the light she did.
The order for the evacuation of the post, and the
removal of the troops to Fort Howard (Green Bay), had
now been received. The family circle was to be broken
up. Our mother, our sister Mrs. Helm, and her little
son, were to return with us to Fort Winnebago the
other members of the family, except Eobert, were to
move with the command to Green Bay.
Before the time for our departure, however, Colonel
Owen, the new Indian Agent, arrived to take up his
residence at the place. Col. K. J. Hamilton, also, on
a visit of business, expressed his determination to make
Chicago his future home. This may be considered the
first impulse given to the place the first step towards
its subsequent unexampled growth and prosperity.
The schooner Napoleon was to be sent from Detroit
to convey the troops with their goods and chattels to
their destined post. Our immediate party was to make
the journey by land we were to choose, however, a
shorter and pleasanter route than the one we had taken
in coming hither. My husband with his Frenchmen,
Petaille Grignon and Simon Lecuyer, had arrived, and
all hands were now busily occupied with the necessary
preparations for breaking up and removal.
SECOND SIGHT HICKORY CREEK. 293
I should be doing injustice to the hospitable settlers
of Hickory Creek were I to pass by, without notice,
an entertainment with which they honored our Chicago
beaux about this time. The merry-making was to be
a ball, and the five single gentlemen of Chicago were
invited. Mr. Dole, who was a new-comer, declined
Lieut. Foster was on duty, but he did what was still
better than accepting the invitation, he loaned his beau-
tiful horse to Medard Beaubien, and he, with Robert
Kinzie and Gholson Kercheval, promised themselves
much fun in eclipsing the beaux and creating a sensa-
tion among the belles of Hickory Creek.
Chicago was then, as now, looked upon as the City
par excellence. Its few inhabitants were supposed to
have seen something of the world, and it is to be in-
ferred that the arrival of the smart and dashing young
men was an event looked forward to with more satis-
faction by the fair of the little settlement than by the
swains whose rivals they might become.
The day arrived and the gentlemen set off in high
spirits. They took care to be in good season, for the
dancing was to commence at two o'clock in the after-
noon. They were well mounted, each priding himself
upon the animal he rode, and they wore their best
suits, as became city gallants who were bent on cutting
out their less fashionable neighbors, and breaking the
hearts of the admiring country damsels.
When they arrived at the place appointed, they
294 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
were received with great politeness their steeds were
taken care of a dinner provided them, after which
they were ushered into the dancing-hall.
All the beauty of the neighboring precincts was
assembled. The ladies were for the most part white, or
or what passed for such, with an occasional dash of
copper color. There was no lack of bombazet gowns
and large white pocket-handkerchiefs, perfumed with
oil of cinnamon; and as they took their places in
long rows on the puncheon floor, they were a merry
and a happy company.
But the city gentlemen grew more and more gallant
the girls more and more delighted with their atten-
tions the country swains, alas ! more and more scowl-
ing and jealous. In vain they pigeon- winged and
double-shuffled in vain they nearly dislocated hips
and shoulders at " hoe corn and dig potatoes" they
had the mortification to perceive that the smart young
sprigs from Chicago had their pick and choose among
their very sweethearts, and that they themselves were
fairly danced off the ground.
The revelry lasted until daylight, and it was now
time to think of returning. There was no one ready
with obliging politeness to bring them their horses
from the stable.
"Poor fellows !" said one of the party, with a com-
passionate sort of laugh, "they could not stand it.
They have gone home to bed !"
SECOND SIGHT HICKOEY CKEEK. 295
"Serves them right," said another, "they'd better
not ask us down among their girls again 1"
They groped their way to the stable and went in.
There were some animals standing at the manger, but
evidently not their horses. What could they be?
Had the rogues been trying to cheat them, by putting
these strange nondescripts into their place ?
They led them forth into the gray of the morning,
and then, such a trio as met their gaze !
There were the original bodies, it is true, but where
were their manes, and tails? A scrubby, picketty
ridge along the neck, and a bare stump projecting
behind were all that remained of the flowing honors
with which they had come gallivanting down to " bear
away the bell" at dickory Creek, or, in the emphatic
language of the country, "to take the rag oft' the
bush."
Gholson sat down on a log and cried outright
Medard took the matter more philosophically the
horse was none of his it was Lieut. Foster's.
Kobert characteristically looked around to see whom
he could knock down, on the occasion, but there was
no one visible on whom to wreak their vengeance.
The bumpkins had stolen away, and in some safe,
quiet nook, were snugly enjoying their triumph, and
doubtless the deceitful .fair ones were, by this time,
sharing their mirth and exultation.
The unlucky gallants mounted their steeds, and set
296 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH- WEST.
their faces homeward. Never was there a more crest-
fallen and sorry-looking cavalcade. The poor horses
seemed to realize that they had met the same treatment
as the messengers of King David at the hands of the
evil-disposed Hanun. They hung their heads, and
evidently wished that they could have " tarried at Jeri-
cho " for a season. Unfortunately there was in those
days, no back way by which they could steal in, un-
observed. Across the prairie, in view of the whole
community must their approach be made, and to add
to their confusion, in the rarity of stirring events, it
was the custom of the whole settlement to turn out
and welcome the arrival of any new-comer.
As hasty a retreat as possible was beaten, amid the
shouts, the jeers, and the condolences of their acquain-
tances, and it is on record that these three young gen-
tlemen were in no hurry to accept, at any future time,
an invitation to partake of the festivities of Hickory
Creek.
In due time the Napoleon made her appearance.
(Alas ! that this great name should be used in the
feminine gender!) As there was at this period no
harbor, vessels anchored outside the bar, or tongue of
land which formed the left bank of the river, and the
lading and unlading were carried on by boats, pulling
in and out, through the mouth of the river, some dis-
tance below.
SECOND SIGHT HICKORY CREEK. 297
Of course it always was a matter of great impor-
tance to get a vessel loaded as quickly as possible
that she might be ready to take advantage of the first
fair wind, and be off from such an exposed and haz-
ardous anchoring ground.
For this reason we had lived packed up for many
days, intending only to see our friends safe on board,
and then commence our own journey.
Our heavy articles of furniture, trunks, &c., had
been sent on board the Napoleon to be brought
round to us by way of Fox Kiver. We had retained
only such few necessaries as could be conveniently
carried on a pack-horse, and in a light dearborn wagon
lately brought by Mr. Kercheval from Detroit (the
first luxury of the kind ever seen on the prairies), and
which my husband had purchased as an agreeable mode
of conveyance for his mother and little nephew.
It was a matter requiring no small amount of time
and labor to transport, in the slow method described, the
effects of so many families of officers and soldiers
the company's stores, and all the various et ceteras
incident to a total change and removal. It was all,
however, happily accomplished everything, even the
last article sent on board nothing remaining on shore
but the passengers, whose turn it was next.
It was a moment of great relief, for Capt. Hinckley
had been in a fever and a fuss many hours, predicting
a change of weather, and murmuring at what he
13*
298 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
thought the unnecessary amount of boat-loads to be
taken on board.
Those who had leisure to be looking out toward
the schooner which had continued anchored about
half a mile out in the lake, had, at this crisis, the
satisfaction to see her hoist sail and leave her station
for the open lake those who were a little later could
just discern her bearing away to a distance, as if she
had got all on board that she had any idea of taking,
Here we were, and here we might remain a week or
more, if it pleased Capt. Hinckley and the schooner
Napoleon, and the good east wind which was blowing
with all its might.
There was plenty of provisions to be obtained, so
the fear of starvation was not the trouble, but how
were the cooking and the table to be provided for?
Various expedients were resorted to. Mrs. Engle, in
her quarters above stairs, ate her breakfast off a shingle
with her husband's jack-knife, and when she had
finished, sent them down to Lieut. Foster for his accom-
modation.
We were at the old mansion on the north side, and
the news soon flew up the river that the Napoleon had
gone off with "the plunder," and left the people
behind. It was not long before we were supplied by
Mrs. Portier (our kind Victoire), with dishes, knives,
forks, and all the other conveniences which our mess-
basket failed, to supply.
SECOND SIGHT HICKOEY CKEEK. 299
This state of things lasted a couple of days, and
then, earl j one fine morning the gratifying intelligence
spread like wild-fire that the Napoleon was at anchor
out beyond the bar.
There was no unnecessary delay this time, and at an
early hour in the afternoon we had taken leave of our
dear friends, and they were sailing away from Chicago.*
* It is a singular fact that all the martins, of which there were
great numbers occupying the little houses constructed for them by
the soldiers, were observed to have disappeared from their homes
on the morning following the embarkation of the troops. After au
absence of five days they returned. They had perhaps taken a
fancy to accompany their old friends, but, finding they were not
Mother Carey's chickens, deemed it most prudent to return and re-
occupy their old dwellings.
CHAPTER XXIV.
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO.
A GREAT part of the command, with the cattle
belonging to the officers and soldiers, had a day or
two previous to the time of our departure, set out on
their march by land to Green Bay, via Fort Winnebago.
Lieut. Foster, under whose charge they were, had lin-
gered behind that he might have the pleasure of joining
our party, and we, in turn, had delayed in order to see
the other members of our family safely on board the
Napoleon. But now, all things being ready, we set
our faces once more homeward.
We took with us a little bound-girl, Josette (a daugh-
ter of Ouilmette, a Frenchman who had lived here
at the time of the Massacre, and of a Pottowattamie
mother), a bright, pretty ehild of ten years of age. She
had been at the St. Joseph's mission-school, under Mr.
McCoy, and she was now full of delight at the prospect
of a journey all the way to the Portage with Monsieur
and Madame John.
"We had also a negro boy, Harry, brought a year
before from Kentucky, by Mr. Kercheval. In the trans-
fer at that time from a slave State to a free one, Harry's
position became somewhat changed he could be no
800
KETUKlSr TO FOET WINNEBAGO. 301
more than an indentured servant. He was about to
become a member of Dr. Wolcott's household, and it
was necessary for him to choose a guardian. All this
was explained to him on his being brought into the
parlor, where the family were assembled. My husband
was then a young man, on a visit to his home. " Now,
Harry," it was said to him, "you must choose your
guardian ;" and the natural expectation was that Harry
would select the person of his acquaintance of the
greatest age and dignity. But, rolling round his great
eyes, and hanging his head on one side, he said,
"I'll have Master John for my guardian."
From that day forward Harry felt as if he belonged,
in a measure, to Master John, and at the breaking up
of the family in Chicago he was, naturally, transferred
to our establishment.
There were three ladies of our travelling party our
mother, our sister Mrs. Helm, and myself. To guard
against the burning effect of the sun and the prairie
winds upon our faces, I had v during some of the last
days of my visit, prepared for each of us a mask of
brown linen, with the eyes, nose, and mouth fitted to
accommodate our features ; and to enhance the hide-
ousness of each, I had worked eye-brows, lashes, and
a circle around the opening for the mouth in black
silk. Gathered in plaits under the chin, and with
strings to confine them above and below, they furnished
a complete protection against the sun and wind, though
302 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
nothing can be imagined more frightful than the ap-
pearance we presented when fully equipped. It was
who should be called the ugliest.
"We left amid the good wishes and laughter of our
few remaining acquaintances, of whom we now took
leave. Our wagon had been provided with a pair of
excellent travelling horses, and sister Margaret and
myself accommodated with the best pacers the country
could afford, and we set off in high spirits toward the
Aux Plaines our old friend, Billy Caldwell (the Sau-
ga-nash), with our brother Robert and Gholson Ker-
cheval accompanying us to that point of our journey.
There was no one at Barney Lawton's when we
reached there, but a Frenchman and a small number
of Indians. The latter in their eagerness to say "bon-
jour," and shake hands with Shaw-nee-aw-kee, passed
us by, apparently without observation, so my sister
and I dismounted and entered the dwelling, the door
of which stood open. Two Indians were seated on the
floor smoking. They raised their eyes as we appeared,
and never shall I forget the expression of wonder and
horror depicted on the countenances of both. Their
lips relaxed until the pipe of one fell upon the floor.
Their eyes seemed starting from their heads, and rais-
ing their outspread hands, as if to wave us from them,
they slowly ejaculated, " Manitou /" (a spirit).
As we raised our masks, and, smiling, came forward
to shake hands with them, they sprang to their feet and
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 303
fairly uttered a cry of delight at the sight of our familiar
faces.
"Bonjour, bonjour, Maman!"was their salutation,
and they instantly plunged out of doors to relate to
their companions what had happened.
Our afternoon's ride was over a prairie stretching
away to the north-east. No living creature was to be
seen upon its broad expanse, but flying and circling
over our heads were innumerable flocks of curlews,
" Screaming their wild notes to the listening waste."
Their peculiar shrill cry of "crack, crack, crack
rackety, rackety, rackety," repeated from the throats
of dozens as they sometimes stooped quite close to our
ears, became at length almost unbearable. It seemed
as if they had lost their senses in the excitement of so
unusual and splendid a cortege in their hitherto deso-
late domain.
The accelerated pace of our horses as we approached
a beautiful, wooded knoll, warned us that this was to
be our place of repose for the night. These animals
seem to know by instinct a favorable encamping-
ground, and this was one of the most lovely imagin-
able.
The trees which near the lake had, owing to the
coldness and tardiness of the season, presented the
pale-yellow appearance of unfledged goslings, were
here bursting into full leaf. The ground around
304 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
was carpeted with flowers we could not bear to have
them crushed by the felling of a tree and the pitching
of our tent among them. The birds sent forth their
sweetest notes in the warm, lingering sunshine, and
the opening buds of the young hickory and sassafras
filled the air with perfume.
Nothing could be more perfect than our enjoyment
of this sylvan and beautiful retreat* after our ride in
the glowing sun. The children were in ecstacies.
They delighted to find ways of making themselves
useful to pile up the saddles to break boughs for
the fire to fill the little kettles with water for Petaille
and Lecuyer, the Frenchmen who were preparing our
supper.
Their amusement at the awkward movements of
the horses after they were spancelled knew no bounds.
To Edwin everything was knew, and Josette, who had
already made more than one horseback journey to
St. Joseph's, manifested all the pride of an old travel-
ler in explaining to him whatever was novel or unac-
countable.
They were not the last to spring up at the call " how !
how !" on the following morning.
The fire was replenished, the preparations for break-
fast commenced, and the Frenchmen dispatched to bring
up the horses in readiness for an early start.
* It is now known as Dunkley's Grove.
BET URN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 305
Harry and Josette played their parts, under our
direction, in preparing the simple meal, and we soon
seated ourselves, each with cup and knife, around the
table-mat. The meal was over, but no men, no horses
appeared. When another half hour had passed, my
husband took Harry and commenced exploring in
search of the missing ones.
The day wore on, and first one and then another
would make his appearance to report progress. Petaille
and Lecuyer at length brought two of the horses, but
the others could nowhere be found. In time, Mr.
Kinzie and Harry returned, wet to their knees by the
dew upon the long prairie-grass, but with no tidings.
Again the men were dispatched after having broken
their fast, but returned as unsuccessful as before.
The morning had been occupied by our party at the
encampment in speculating upon the missing animals.
Could they have been stolen by the ludians ? Hardly
these people seldom committed robberies in time of
peace never upon our family, whom they regarded as
their best friends. The horses would doubtless be
found. They had probably been carelessly fastened
the preceding evening, and therefore been able to stray
further than was their wont.
A council was held, at which it was decided to send
Grignon back to Chicago to get some fresh horses from
Gholson Kercheval, and return as speedily as possible.
If on his return our encampment were deserted, he
THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
might conclude we had found the horses and proceeded
to Fox Eiver, where he would doubtless overtake us.
Upon reflection, it was thought best to send him
once more in the direction of Salt Creek, when, if
still unsuccessful, the former alternative could be
adopted.
He had not been gone more than an hour, before,
slowly hopping out of a point of woods to the north
of us (a spot which each of the seekers averred he had
explored over and over again), and making directly for
the place where we were, appeared the vexatious
animals. They came up as demurely as if nothing had
happened, and seemed rather surprised to be received
with a hearty scolding, instead of being patted and
caressed as usual.
It was the work of a very short half-hour to strike
and pack the tent, stow away the mats and kettles,
saddle the horses and mount for our journey.
" Whoever pleases may take my place in the car-
riage," said our mother. " I have travelled so many
years on horseback, that I find any other mode of con-
veyance too fatiguing."
So, spite of her sixty years, she mounted sister Mar-
garet's pacer with the activity of a girl of sixteen.
Lieut. Foster had left us early in the morning, feel-
ing it necessary to rejoin his command, and now, hav-
ing seen us ready to set off, with a serene sky above
us, and all things " right and tight" for the journey,
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 307
our friend, the Sau-ga-nash took leave of us, and re-
traced his steps towards Chicago.
We pursued our way through a lovely country of al-
ternate glade and forest, until we reached the Fox river.
The current ran clear and rippling along, and as we
descended the steep bank to the water, the question, so
natural to a traveller in an unknown region, presented
itself, "Isitfordable?"
Petaille, to whom the ground was familiar, had not
yet made his appearance. Lecuyer was quite ignorant
upon the subject. The troops had evidently preceded
us by this very trail. True, but they were on horse-
back the difficulty was, could we get the carriage
through ? It must be remembered, that the doubt was
not about the depth of the water, but about the hard-
ness of the bottom of the stream.
It was agreed that two or three of the equestrians
should make the trial first. My mother, Lecuyer and
myself, advanced cautiously across to the opposite bank,
each choosing a different point for leaving the water,
in order to find the firmest spot. The bottom was hard
and firm until we came near the shore, then it yielded
a little. With one step however, we were each on dry
ground.
"Est-il beau?" called my husband, who was driv-
ing.
"Oui, Monsieur."
" Yes, John, come just here, it is perfectly good.*
308 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
" No, no go a little further down. See the white
gravel just there it will be firmer still, there."
Such were the contradictory directions given. He
chose the latter, and when it wanted but one step more
to the bank, down sunk both horses, until little more
than their backs were visible.
The white gravel proved to be a bed of treacherous
yellow clay, which gleaming through the water, had
caused so unfortunate a deception.
With frantic struggles, for they were nearly suffo-
cated with mud and water, the horses made desperate
efforts to free themselves from the harness. My husband
sprang out upon the pole. " Some one give me a knife,"
he cried. I was back in the water, in a moment, and
approaching as near as I dared, handed him mine from
the scabbard around my neck.
" Whatever you do, do not cut the traces," cried his
mother.
He severed some of the side-straps, when just as he
had reached the extremity of the pole, and was stretch-
ing forward to separate the head-couplings, one of the
horses gave a furious plunge, which caused his fellow
to rear, and throw himself nearly backwards. My
husband was between them. For a moment we thought
he was gone trampled down by the excited animals,
but he presently showed himself nearly obscured by
the mud and water. With the agility of a cat, Harry,
who was near him, now sprung forward on the pole,
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 309
and in an instant, with his sharp jack-knife which he
had ready, divided the straps that confined their heads.
The horses were at this moment lying floating on
the water one apparently dead, the other as if gasping
out his last breath. But hardly did they become sensi-
ble of the release of their heads from bondage than
they made simultaneously, another furious effort to free
themselves from the pole to which they were still at-
tached by the neck-strap.
Failing in this, they tried another expedient, and by
a few judicious twists and turns, succeeded in wrenching
the pole asunder, and finally carried it off in triumph
across the river again, and up the bank, where they
stood waiting to decide what were the next steps to be
taken.
Here was a predicament ! A few hours before we
had thought ourselves uncomfortable enough, because
some of our horses were missing. Now, a greater evil
had befallen us. The wagon was in the river, the
harness cut to pieces, and, what was worse, carried off
in the most independent manner, by Tom and his com-
panion ; the pole was twisted to pieces, and there was
not so much as a stick on that side of the river with
which to replace it.
At this moment, a whoop from the opposite bank,
echoed by two or three hearty ones from our party, an-
nounced the re-appearance of Petaille Grignon. He dis-
mounted and took charge of the horses, who were
310 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
resting themselves after their fatigues under a shady
tree, and by this time Lecuyer had crossed the river
and now joined him in bringing back the delinquents.
In the meantime we had been doijag our best to min-
ister to our sister Margaret. Both she and her little
son Edwin had been in the wagon at the time of the
accident, and it had been a work of some difficulty to
get them out and bring them on horseback to shore.
The effect of the agitation and excitement was to throw
her into a fit of the ague, and she now lay blue and
trembling among the long grass of the little prairie,
which extended along the bank. The tent which
had been been packed in the rear of the wagon, was too
much saturated with mud and water to admit of its
being used as a shelter ; it could only be stretched in
the sun to dry. We opened an umbrella over our poor
sister's head, and now began a discussion of ways and
means to repair damages. The first thing was to cut a
new pole for the wagon, and for this, the master and
men must recross the river and choose an iron-tree out
of the forest.
Then, for the harness. With provident care, a little
box had been placed under the seat of the wagon, con-
taining an awl, waxed-ends, and various other little
conveniences exactly suited to an emergency like the
present.
It was question and answer, like Cock Eobin :
"Who can mend the harness?"
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 311
"I can, for I learned when^I was a young girl to
make shoes as an accomplishment, and I can surely now,
as a matter of usefulness and duty, put all those wet,
dirty pieces of leather together."
So, we all seated ourselves on the grass, under the
shade of the only two umbrellas we could muster.
I stitched away diligently, blistering my hands, I
must own, in no small degree.
A suitable young tree had been brought, and the
hatchets, without which one never travels in the woods,
were all busy, fashioning it into shape, when a peculiar
hissing noise was heard, and instantly the cry,
" Un serpent sonnette /. A rattlesnake !"
All sprang to their feet, even the poor shaking in-
valid, just in time to see the reptile glide past within
three inches of my mother's feet, while the men assailed
the spot it had left with whips, missives, and whatever
would help along the commotion.
This little incident proved an excellent remedy 'for
the ague. One excitement drives away another, and
by means of this, (upon the homoepathic principle),
sister Margaret was so much improved that by the
time all the mischiefs were repaired, she was ready to
take her place in the cavalcade, as bright and cheerful
as the rest of us.
So great had been the delay occasioned by all these
untoward circumstances, that our afternoon's ride was
but a short one, bringing us no further than the shores
312 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
of a beautiful sheet of water, now known as Crystal
Lake. Its clear surface was covered with Loons, and
Poules d^JEaUj a species of Kail, with which, at certain
seasons, this region abounds.
The Indians have, universally, the genius of J3sop
for depicting animal life and character, and there is,
among them, a fable illustrative of every peculiarity in
the personal appearance, habits, or dispositions of each
variety of the animal creation.
The back of the little Kail is very concave, or hol-
low. The Indians tell us it became so in the following
manner :
STORY OF THE LITTLE RAIL, OR Poule d" 1 Eau.
There is supposed, by most of the North-western
tribes, to exist an invisible being, corresponding to the
"Genius" of oriental story. Without being exactly
the father of evil, Nan-nee-bo-zho is a mischievous spirit,
to whose office it seems to be assigned to punish what
is amiss. For his own purposes too, he seems con-
stantly occupied in entrapping and making examples
of all the animals that come in his way.
One pleasant evening, as he walked along the banks
of a lake, he saw a flock of ducks, sailing and enjoying
themselves on the blue waters. He called to them :
" Ho ! come with me into my lodge, and I will teach
you to dance!" Some of the ducks said among them-
selves, "It is Nan-nee-bo-zho, let us not go." Others
EETURN TO FOET WINNEBAGO. 313
were of a contrary opinion, and his words being fair,
and his voice insinuating, a few turned their faces to-
wards the land all the rest soon followed, and with
many pleasant quackings, trooped after him, and en-
tered his lodge.
When there, he first took an Indian sack, with a
wide mouth, which he tied by the strings around his
neck, so that it would hang over his shoulders, having
the mouth unclosed. Then placing himself in the
centre of the lodge, he ranged the ducks in a circle
around him.
"Now," said he, "you must all shut your eyes tight,
whoever opens his eyes at all, something dreadful will
happen to him. I will take my Indian flute and play
upon it, and you will, at the word I shall give, open
your eyes, and commence dancing, as you see me do."
The ducks obeyed, shutting their eyes tight, and keep-
ing time to the music by stepping from one foot to the
other, all impatient for the dancing to begin.
Presently a sound was heard like a smothered
" quack," but the ducks did not dare to open their eyes.
Again, and again, the sound of the flute would be
interrupted, and a gurgling cry of " qu-a-a-ck" be heard.
There was one little duck, much smaller than tne rest,
who, at this juncture, could not resist the temptation
to open one eye, cautiously. She saw Nan-nee-bo-zho,
as he played his flute, holding it with one hand, stoop
a little at intervals and seize the duck nearest him,
14
314 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
which he throttled and stuffed into the bag on his shoul-
ders. So, edging a little out of the circle, and getting
nearer the door which had been left partly open to
admit the light, she cried out :
" Open your eyes Nan-nee-bo-zho is choking you
all and putting you into his bag!"
With that she flew, but the Nan-nee-bo-zho pounced
upon her. His hand grasped her back, yet, with des-
perate force, she released herself and gained the open
air. Her companions flew, quacking and screaming
after her. Some escaped, and some fell victims to the
sprite.
The little duck had saved her life, but she had lost
her beauty. She ever after retained the attitude she
had been forced into, in her moment of danger her
back pressed down in the centre, and her head and neck
unnaturally stretched forward into the air.
CHAPTER XXY.
' ,*
RETURN JOURNEY CONTINUED.
THE third day of our journey rose brilliantly clear,
like the two preceding ones, and we shaped our course
more to the north than we had hitherto done, in the
direction of Big-foot lake, now known by the somewhat
hackneyed appellation, Lake of Geneva.
Our journey this day was without mishaps or dis-
asters of any kind. The air was balmy, the foliage of
the forests fresh and fragrant, the little brooks clear
and sparkling everything in nature spoke the praises
of the beneficent Creator.
It is in scenes like this, far removed from the bustle,
the strife, and the sin of civilized life, that we most fully
realize the presence of the great Author of the Uni-
verse. Here can the mind most fully adore his majes-
ty and goodness, for here only is the command obeyed,
"Let all the earth keep silence before Him!"
It cannot escape observation that the deepest and
most solemn devotion is in the hearts of those who, shut
out from the worship of God in temples made with
hands, are led to commune with him amid the bound-
less magnificence that his own power has framed.
815
316 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
This day was not wholly without incident. As we
stopped for our noontide refreshment, and dismounting
threw ourselves on the fresh herbage just at the verge
of a pleasant thicket, we were startled by a tender
bleating near us, and breaking its way through the low
branches, there came upon us a sweet little dappled
fawn, evidently in search of its mother. It did not
seem in the least frightened at the sight of us. As
poor Selkirk might have parodied,
It was so unacquainted with man,
Its tameness was charming to us.
But the vociferous delight of the children soon drove
it bounding again into the woods, and all hopes of
catching it for a pet were at once at an end.
"We had travelled well this day, and were beginning
to feel somewhat fatigued when, just before sunset, we
came upon a ridge, overlooking one of the loveliest
little dells imaginable. It was an oak opening, and
browsing under the shade of the tall trees which were
scattered around, were the cattle and horses of the
soldiers who had got thus far on their journey. Two
or three white tents were pitched in the bottom of the
valley, beside a clear stream. The camp-fires were
already lighted, and the men, singly or in groups, were
dispersed at their various preparations for their own
comfort, or that of their animals.
Lieut. Foster came forward with great delight to
KETUEN TO FOET WINNEBAGO. 317
welcome our arrival, and accepted without hesitation
an invitation to join our mess again, as long as we
should be together.
We soon found a pleasant encamping-ground, far
enough removed from the other party to secure us
against all inconvenience, and our supper having re-
ceived the addition of a kettle of fine fresh milk, kindly
brought us by Mrs. Gardiner, the hospital matron, who
with her little covered cart formed no unimportant
feature in the military group, we partook of our even-
ing meal with much hilarity and enjoyment.
If people are ever companionable, it is when thrown
together under circumstances like the present. There
has always been sufficient incident through the day to
furnish a theme for discourse, and subject of merriment,
as long as the company feel disposed for conversation,
which is, truth to tell, not an unconscionable length of
time after their supper is over.
The poor Lieutenant looked grave enough when we
sat out in advance of him the next morning. None
of his party were acquainted with the road, but after
giving him directions both general and particular, Mr.
Kinzie promised to blaze a tree, or set up a chip for
a guide, at every place which appeared unusually
doubtful.
We now found ourselves. in a much more diversified
country than any we had hitherto travelled. Gently
swelling hills, and lovely valleys, and bright sparkling
318 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
streams were the features of the landscape. But there
was little animate life. Now and then, a shout from
the leader of the party, (for, according to custom, we
travelled Indian file), would call our attention to a
herd of deer " loping," as the westerners say, through
the forest ; or, an additional spur would be given to
the horses on the appearance of some small dark ob-
ject, far distant on the trail before us. But the game
invariably contrived to disappear before we could
reach it, and it was out of tne question to leave the beaten
track for a regular hunt.
Soon after mid-day, we descended a long, sloping
knoll, and by a sudden turn came full in view of the
beautiful 'sheet of water denominated Gros-pied by the
French, Maunk-suck by the natives, and by ourselves
Big-foot, from the chief, whose village overlooked its
waters. Bold, swelling hills jutted forward into the
clear blue expanse, or retreated slightly to afford a
green, level nook, as a resting-place for the foot of man.
On the nearer shore stretched a bright, gravelly beach,
through which coursed here and there a pure, sparkling
rivulet to join the larger sheet of water.
On a rising ground, at the foot of one of the bold
bluffs in the middle distance, a collection of neat wig-
wams formed, with their surrounding gardens, no un-
pleasant feature in the picture.
A shout of delight burst involuntarily from the
whole party, as this charming landscape met our view.
[nnl
&>
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. ,819
" It was like the Hudson, only less "bold no, it was
like the lake of the Forest Cantons, in the picture of
the Chapel of William Tell ! What could be imagined
more enchanting ? Oh ! if our friends at the east could
but enjoy it with us!"
We paused long to admire, and then spurred on,
skirting the head of the lake, and were soon ascending
the broad platform, on which stood the village of
Maunk-suck, or Big-foot.
The inhabitants, who had witnessed our approach
from a distance, were all assembled in front of their
wigwams to greet us, if friends if otherwise, whatever
the occasion should demand. It was the first time such
a spectacle had ever presented itself to their wondering
eyes. Their salutations were not less cordial than we
expected. " Shaw-nee-aw-kee" and his mother, who
was known throughout the tribe by the touching appel-
ation " Our friend's wife," were welcomed most kindly,
and an animated conversation commenced, which I could
understand only so far as it was conveyed by gestures
so I amused myself by taking a minute survey of all
that met my view.
The chief was a large, raw-boned, ugly Indian, with
a countenance bloated by intemperance, and with a
sinister, unpleasant expression. He had a gay-colored
handkerchief upon his head, and was otherwise attired
in his best, in compliment to the strangers.
It was to this chief that Chambly, or as he is now
320 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
called Shaw -bee-nay, Billy Caldwell and Robinson were
despatched, during the Winnebago war, in 1827, to use
their earnest endeavors to prevent him and his band
from joining the hostile Indians. With some difficulty
they succeeded, and were thus the means, doubtless, of
saving the lives of all the settlers who lived exposed
upon the frontier.
Among the various groups of his people, there was
none attracted my attention so forcibly as a young man
of handsome face, and a figure that was striking, even
where all were fine and symmetrical. He too had a
gay handkerchief on his head, a shirt of the brightest
lemon-colored calico, an abundance of silver ornaments,
and, what gave his dress'a most fanciful appearance, one
leggin of blue, and the other of bright scarlet. I was
not ignorant that this peculiar feature in his toilette
indicated a heart buffering from the tender passion. The
flute, which he carried in his hand, added confirmation
to the fact, while the joyous, animated expression of his
countenance showed with equal plainness that he was
not a despairing lover.
I could have imagined him to have recently returned
from the chase, laden with booty, with which he had,
as is the custom, entered the lodge of the fair one, and
throwing his burden at the feet of her parents, with an
indifferent, superb sort of air, as much as to say, "Here
is some meat it is a mere trifle, but it will show you
what you might expect with me for a son-in-law." I
EETURN" TO FOET WINNEBAGO. 321
could not doubt that the damsel had stepped forward
and gathered it up, in token that she accepted the offer-
ing, and the donor along with it. There was nothing
in the appearance or manner of any of the maidens by
whom we were surrounded, to denote which was the
happy fair, neither, although I peered anxiously into
all their countenances, could I there detect any blush
of consciousness, so I was obliged to content myself
with selecting the youngest and prettiest of the group,
and go on weaving my romance to my own satisfac-
tion.
The village stood encircled by an amphitheatre of
hills, so precipitous, and with gorges so steep and narrow>
that it seemed almost impossible to scale them, even on
horseback how then could we hope to accomplish the
ascent of the four-wheeled carriage? This was the
point now under discussion between my husband and
the Pottowattamies. There was no choice but to make
the effort selecting the pass that the inhabitants pointed
out as the most practicable. Petaille went first, and I fol-
lowed on my favorite Jerry. It was such a scramble
as is not often taken. Almost perpendicularly, through
what seemed the dry bed of a torrent, now filled with
loose stones, and scarcely affording one secure foothold
from the bottom to the summit ! I clung fast to the
mane, literally at times clasping Jerry around his neck,
and amid the encouraging shouts and cheers of those
below, we at length arrived safely, though nearly
14*
822 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
breathless on the pinnacle, and sat looking down, to
view the success of the next party.
The horses had been taken from the carriage, and
the luggage it contained placed upon the shoulders of
some of the young Indians, to be toted up the steep.
Ropes were now attached to its sides, and a regular
bevy of our red friends, headed by our two French-
men, placed to man them. Two or three more took
their places in the rear, to hold the vehicle and keep
it from slipping backwards then the labour com-
mencd. Such a pulling! such a shouting! such a
clapping of hands by the spectators of both sexes !
such a stentorian word of command or encouragement
from the bourgeois ! Now and then there would be a
sligh halt, a wavering, as if carriage and men were
about to tumble backwards into the plain below but
no they recovered themselves, and after incredible
efforts they too, safely gained the table land above. In
process of time all were landed there, and having re-
munerated our friends 'to their satisfaction, the goods
and chattels were collected, the wagon repacked, and
we set off for our encampment at Turtle Creek.
The exertions and excitement of our laborious ascent,
together with the increasing heat of the sun, made this
afternoon's ride more uncomfortable than anything we
had previously felt. We were truly rejoiced when the
"whoop" of our guide, and the sight of a few scattered
lodges, gave notice that we had reached our encamping
KETUKN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 323
ground. We chose a beautiful sequestered spot, by the
side of a clear, sparkling stream, and having dismounted,
and seen that our horses were made comfortable, my
husband, after giving his directions to his men, led me to
a retired spot where I could lay aside my hat and mask,
and bathe my flushed face and aching head in the cool,
refreshing waters. Never had I felt anything so grate-
ful, so delicious. I sat down, and leaned my head
against one of the tall, overshadowing trees, and was
almost dreaming, when summoned to partake of our
evening meal.
The Indians had brought us, as a present, some fine
brook trout, which our Frenchmen had prepared in the
most tempting fashion, and before the bright moon rose
and we were ready for our rest, all headache and
fatigue had alike disappeared.
One of the most charming features of this mode of
travelling is the joyous, vocal life of the forest at early
dawn, when all the feathered tribe come forth to pay
their cheerful salutations to the opening day.
The rapid, chattering flourish of the bob-o'-link, the
soft whistle of the thrush, the tender coo of the wood-
dove, the deep warbling bass of the grouse, the drum-
ming of the partridge, the melodious trill of the lark,
the gay carol of the robin, the friendly, familiar call of
the duck and the teal, resound from tree and knoll, and
324 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
lowland, prompting the expressive exclamation of the
simple half-breed,
" Voila la foret qui parle !"*
It seems as if man must involuntarily raise his voice,
to take part* in the general chorus the matin song
of praise.
Birds and flowers, and the soft balmy airs of morn-
ning ! Must it not have been in a scene like this that
Milton poured out his beautiful hymn of adoration,
" These are thy glorious works, Parent of Good."
This day we were journeying in hopes to reach, at
an early hour, that broad expanse of the Eock Kiver
which here forma the Kosh-ko-nong. The appellation
of this water, rendered doubly affecting by the subse-
quent fate of its people, imports " the lake we live on"
Our road for the early part of the day led through
forests so thick and tangled, that Grignon and Lecuyer
were often obliged to go in advance as pioneers with
their axes, to cut away the obstructing shrubs and
branches. It was slow work, and at times quite dis-
couraging, but we were through with it, at last, and
then we came into a country of altogether a different
description. Low prairies, intersected with deep, nar-
row streams like canals, the passage of which, either
* How the woods talk 1
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 325
by horses or carriage, was often a matter of delay and
even difficulty.
Several times in the course of the forenoon the
horses were to be taken from the carriage and the
latter pulled and pushed across the deep narrow chan-
nels as best it might.
The wooded banks of the Kosh-ko-nong were never
welcomed with greater delight than by us, when they
at length broke upon our sight. A ride of five or six
miles through the beautiful oak openings, brought us to
Man-eater's village, a collection of neat bark wigwams,
with extensive fields on each side of corn, beans, and
squashes, recently planted, but already giving promise
of a fine crop. In front was the broad blue lake, the
shores of which, to the south, were open and marshy,
but near the village, and stretching far away to the
north, were bordered by fine lofty trees. The village
was built but a short distance below the point where
the Eock River opens into the lake, and during a con-
versation between our party and the Indians at the
village, an arrangement was made with them to take
us across at a spot about half a mile above.
After a short halt, we again took up our line of march
through the woods, along the bank of the river.
A number of the "Winnebagoes (for we had been
among our own people since leaving Gros-pied Lake),
set out for the appointed place by water, paddling their
326 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
canoes, of which they had selected the largest and
strongest.
Arrived at the spot indicated, we dismounted, and
the men commenced the task of unsaddling and un-
loading. We were soon placed in the canoes, and pad-
dled across to the opposite bank. Next, the horses
were swum across after them was to come the carriage.
Two long wooden canoes were securely lashed together
side by side, and being of sufficient width to admit of
the carriage standing within them, the passage was
commenced. Again and again the tottering barks
would sway from side to side, and a cry or a shout
would arise from our party on shore, as the whole mass
seemed about to plunge sideways into the water, but
it would presently recover itself, and at length, after
various deviations from the perpendicular, it reached
the shore in safety.
We now hoped that our troubles were at an end,
and that we had nothing to do but to mount and trot
on as fast as possible to Fort Winnebago. But no.
Half a mile farther on was a formidable swamp, of no
great width it is true, but with a depth of from two to
three feet of mud and water. It was a question
whether, with the carriage, we could get through it at
all. Several of the Indians accompanied us to this
place, partly to give us their aid and counsel, and partly
to enjoy the fun of the spectacle.
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 327
On reaching the swamp, we were disposed to laugh
at the formidable representations which had been made
to us. We saw only a strip of what seemed rather low
land, covered with tall, dry rushes.
It is true the ground looked a little wet, but there
seemed nothing to justify all the apprehensions that
had been excited. Great was my surprise, then, to see
my husband, who had been a few minutes absent, re-
turn to our circle attired in his duck trousers, and
without shoes or stockings.
" What are you going to do ?" inquired I.
" Carry you through the swamp on my shoulders.
Come Petaille, you are the strongest you are -to carry
Madame Kinzie, and To-shun-nuck there, (pointing to
a tall stout Winnebago), he will take Madame Helm."
" Wait a moment," said I, and seating myself on the
grass, I deliberately took off my own boots and stock-
ings.
"What is that for?" they all asked.
" Because I do not wish to ride with wet feet all the
rest of the day."
"No danger of that," said they and no one fol-
lowed my example.
By the time they were in the midst of the swamp,
however, they found my precaution was by no means
useless. The water through which our bearers had to
pass was of such a depth that no efforts of the ladies
were sufficient to keep their feet above the surface :
328 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
and I had the satisfaction of feeling that my burden
upon my husband's shoulders was much less, from
my being able to keep my first position instead of
changing constantly to avoid a contact with the water.
The laugh was quite on my side when I resumed
my equipment and mounted, dry-shod, into my saddle.
It will be perceived that journeying in the woods is,
in some degree, a deranger of ceremony and formality ;
that it necessarily restricts us somewhat in our conven-
tionalities. The only remedy is, to make ourselves
amends by a double share when we return to the civ-
ilized walks of life.
By dint of much pulling, shouting, encouraging and
threatening, the horses at length dragged the carriage
through the difficult pass, and our red friends were left
to return to their village, with, doubtless, a very ex-
aggerated and amusing account of all that they had
seen and assisted in.
We had not forgotten our promise to Lieut. Foster to
put up a " guide-board " of some sort, for his accom-
modation in following us. We had therefore, upon
several occasions, carried with us from the woods a
few pieces, of three or four feet in length, which we
had planted at certain points, with a transverse stick
through a cleft in the top, thus marking the direction
he and his party were to take.
We therefore felt sure that, although a few days
later, he would probably find our trail, and avail him
KETUKN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 329
self of the same assistance as we had, in getting through
the difficulties of the way.
Our encamping ground, this night, was to be not far
distant from the Four Lakes. We were greatly fa-
tigued with the heat and exercise of the day, and most
anxiously did we look out for the clumps of willows
and alders, which were to mark the spot where water
would be found. We felt hardly equal to pushing on
quite to the bank of the nearest lake. Indeed, it
would have taken us too much off our direct course.
When we, at a late hour, came upon a spot fit for
our purpose, we exchanged mutual congratulations
that this was to be our last night upon the road. The
next day we should be at Winnebago !
Our journey had been most delightful a continued
scene of exhilaration and enjoyment ; for the various
mishaps, although for the moment they had perplexed,
had, in the end, but added to our amusement. Still,
with the inconstancy of human nature, we were pleased
to exchange its excitement for the quiet repose of
home.
Our next morning's ride was of a more tranquil
character than any that had preceded it ; for at an
early hour we entered upon what was known as the
"Twenty-mile Prairie," although it is, in fact, said to
be no more than sixteen or eighteen miles. I can only
observe, that if this is the case, the miles are wonder-
fully long on the prairies. Our passage over this was,
330 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
except the absence of the sand, like crossing the des-
ert. Mile after mile of unbroken expanse not a tree
not a living object except ourselves.
The sun, as if to make himself amends for his two
months' seclusion, shone forth with redoubled bril-
liancy. There is no such thing as carrying an um-
brella on horseback, though those in the wagon were
able to avail themselves of such a shelter.
Our mother's energies had sustained her in the sad-
dle until this day, but she was now fairly obliged to
give in, and yield her place on little Brunet to Sister
Margaret.
Thus we went on, one little knoll rising beyond an-
other, from the summit of each of which, in succes-
sion, we hoped to descry the distant woods, which
were to us as the promised land.
" Take courage," were the cheering words, often
repeated, "very soon you will begin to see the tim-
ber."
Another hour would pass heavily by.
" Now, when we reach the rising ground just ahead,
look sharp"
We looked sharp nothing but the same unvarying
landscape.
There were not even streams to allay the feverish
thirst occasioned by fatigue and impatience.
At length a whoop from Shaw-me-aw-kee broke the
silence in which we were pursuing our way.
RETURN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 331
"Levoila!" (" There it is !")
Our less practised eye could not at first discern the
faint blue strip edging the horizon, but it grew and
grew upon our vision, and all fatigue and discomfort
proportionablj disappeared.
We were in fine spirits by the time we reached
" Hastings' Woods," a noble forest, watered by a clear,
sparkling stream.
Grateful as was the refreshment of the green foilage
and the cooling waters, we did not allow ourselves to
forget that the day was wearing on, and that we must,
if possible, complete our journey before sunset, so we
soon braced up our minds to continue our. route,
although we would gladly have lingered another
hour.
The marsh of Duck Creek was, thanks to the heat
of the past week, in a very different state from what it
had been a few months previous, when I had been so
unfortunately submerged in its icy waters.
We passed it without difficulty, and soon found our-
selves upon the banks of the creek.
The stream, at this point, was supposed to be always
fordable ; and even were it not so, that to the majority
of our party would have been a matter of little mo-
ment. To the ladies, however, the subject seemed to
demand consideration.
" This water looks very deep are you sure we can
cross it on horseback ?"
832 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
" Oh, yes ! Petaille, go before and let us see how
the water is."
Petaille obeyed. He was mounted on a horse like a
giraffe, and, extending his feet horizontally, he cer-
tainly managed to pass through the stream without
much of a wetting.
It seemed certain that the water would come into
the wagon, but that was of the less consequence, as in
case of the worst, the passengers could mount upon
the seats.
My horse, Jerry, was above the medium height, so
that I soon passed over, with no inconvenience but
that of being obliged to disengage my feet from the
stirrups, and tuck them up snugly against the mane of
the horse. .
Sister Margaret was still upon Brunet. She was
advised to change him for one of the taller horses, but
while the matter was under debate, it was settled by
the perverse little wretch taking to the water most un-
cermoniously, in obedience to the example of the other
animals.
He was soon beyond his depth, and we were at once
alarmed and diverted at seeing his rider, with surpris-
ing adroitness, draw herself from the stirrups, and
perch herself upon the top of the saddle, where she
held her position, and navigated her little refractory
steed safely to land.
This was the last of our adventures. A pleasant
liETUKN TO FORT WINNEBAGO. 333
ride of four miles brought us to the Fort, just as the
sun was throwing his last beams over the glowing land-
scape; and on reaching the ferry, we were at once
conducted, by the friends who were awaiting us, to the
hospitable roof of Major Twiggs.
CHAPTER XXVI.
FOUR -LEGS, THE DANDY.
THE companies of the first regiment which had
hiterto been stationed at Fort Winnebago, had received
orders to move on to the Mississippi as soon as relieved
by a portion of the fifth, now at Fort Howard.
As many of the officers of the latter regiment were
married, we had reason to expect that all the quarters
at the post would be put in requisition. For this rea-
son, although strongly pressed by Major Twiggs to take
up our residence again in the Fort, until he should go
on furlough, we thought it best to establish ourselves
at once at " the Agency."
It seemed laughable to give so grand a name to so
very insignificant a concern. We had been promised,
by the heads of department at Washington, a comfort-
able dwelling so soon as there should be an appropria-
tion by Congress sufficient to cover any extra expense
in the Indian Department. It was evident that Con-
gress had a great spite at us, for it had delayed for two
sessions attending to our accommodation. There was
nothing to be done, therefore, but to make ourselves
comfortable with the best means in our power.
834
FOUR-LEGS, THE DANDY. 335
Major Twiggs had given Mr. Kinzie the old log
barracks, which had been built for the officers and
soldiers on the first establishment of the post, two years
previous, and his Frenchmen had removed and put
them up again upon the little hill opposite the Fort.
To these some additions were now made in the shape
of dairy, stables, smoke-house, etc., constructed of the
tamarack logs brought from the neighboring swamp.
The whole presented a very rough and primitive ap-
pearance.
The main building consisted of a succession of four
rooms, no two of which communicated with each other,
but each opened by a door into the outward air. A
small window cut through the logs in front and rear,
gave light to the apartment. An immense clay chim-
ney for every two rooms, occupied one side of each,
and the ceiling overhead was composed of a few rough
boards laid upon the transverse logs that supported
the roof.
It was surprising how soon a comfortable, homelike
air was given to the old dilapidated rooms, by a few
Indian mats spread upon the floor, the piano and other
furniture ranged in their appropriate places, and even
a few pictures hung against the logs. The latter, alas !
had soon to be displaced, for with the first heavy
shower the rain found entrance through sundry crev-
ices, and we saw ourselves obliged to put aside, care-
fully, everything that could be injured by the moisture.
336 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
We made liglit of these evils, however packed away
our carpets and superfluous furniture upon the boards
above, which we dignified with the name of attic, and
contentedly resolved to await the time when Govern-
ment should condescend to remember us. The greatest
inconvenience I experienced, was from the necessity
of wearing my straw bonnet throughout the day, as I
journeyed from bedroom to parlor, and from parlor to
kitchen. I became so accustomed to it, that I even
sometimes forgot to remove it when I sat down to table,
or to my quiet occupations with my mother and sister.
Permission was however, in time, received to build
a house for the blacksmith that is, the person kept in
pay by the Government at this station to mend the
guns, traps, &c. of the Indians.
It happened most fortunately for us that Monsieur
Isidore Morrin was a bachelor, and quite satisfied to
continue boarding with his friend Louis Frum, dit
Manaigre, so that when the new house was fairly com-
menced, we planned it and hurried it forward entirely
on our own account.
It was not very magnificent, it is true, consisting of
but a parlor and two bedrooms on the ground-floor,
and two low chambers under the roof, with a kitchen
in the rear; but compared with the rambling old
stable-like building we now inhabited, it seemed quite
a palace.
Before it was completed, Mr. Kinzie was- notified
FOUR-LEGS, THE DANDY. 337
that the money for the annual Indian payment was
awaiting his arrival in Detroit to take charge of it, and
superintend its transportation to the Portage, and he
was obliged to set off at once to fulfil this part of
his duty.
The workmen who had been brought from the Mis-
sissippi to erect the main building, were fully competent
to carry on their work without an overseer, but the
kitchen was to be the task of the Frenchmen, and the
question was, how could it be executed in the absence
of the bourgeois ?
"You will have to content yourselves in the old
quarters until my return," said my husband, "and then
we will soon have things in order." It was to be a
long and tedious journey, for the operations of govern-
ment were not carried on by railroad and telegraph
in those days.
After his departure I said to the men, " Come, you
have all your logs cut and hauled the squaws have
brought the bark for the roof what is to prevent our
finishing the house and getting all moved and settled
to surprise Monsieur John on his return?"
"Ah! to be sure, Madame John," said Plante, who
was always the spokesman, " provided the one who
plants a green bough on the chimney-top is to have
a treat !"
" Certainly. All hands fall to work, and see who
will win the treat."
15
338 THE EARLY DAY IN" THE NOKTH-WEST.
Upon the strength of such an inducement to the one
who should put the finishing stroke to the building,
Plante, Pillon and Manaigre, whom the waggish Plante
persisted in calling "mon negre," whenever he felt
himself out of the reach of the other's arm, all went
vigorously to work.
Building a log-house is a somewhat curious process.
First, as will be conceived, the logs are laid one upon
another and jointed at the corners, until the walls have
reached the required height. The chimney is formed
by four poles of the proper length, interlaced with a
wicker-work of small branches. A hole or pit is dug,
near at hand, and with a mixture of clay and water, a
sort of mortar is formed. Large wisps of hay are filled
with this thick substance, and fashioned with the
hands into what are technically called "clay cats" and
then are filled in among the frame- work of the chimney
until not a chink is left. The whole is then covered
with a smooth coating of the wet clay, which is denom-
inated, "plastering."
Between the logs which compose the walls of the
building, small bits of wood are driven, quite near to-
gether ; this is called " chinking," and after it is done,
clay cats are introduced, and smoothed over with the
plaster. "When all is dry, both walls and chimney are
whitewashed, and present a comfortable and tidy ap-
pearance.
The roof is formed by laying upon the transverse
FOUR-LEGS, THE DANDY. 339
logs, thick sheets of bark, and around the chimney, for
greater security against the rain, we took care to have
placed a few layers of the palisades that had been left,
when Mr. Peach, an odd little itinerant genius, had
fenced in our garden, the pride and wonder of the sur-
rounding settlement and wigwams.
While all these matters were in progress, we re-
ceived frequent visits from our Indian friends. First
and formost among them was "the young Dandy,"
Four-Legs.
One fine morning he made his appearance accom-
panied by two squaws, whom he introduced as his
wives. He could speak a little Chippewa, and by
this means he and our mother contrived to keep up
something of a conversation. He was dressed in all
his finery, brooches, wampum, fan, looking-glass and
all. The paint upon his face and chest showed that
he had devoted no small time to the labors of his toilet.
He took a chair, as he had seen done at Washington,
and made signs to his women to sit down upon the
floor.
The custom of taking two wives is not very general
among the Indians. They seem to have the sagacity
to perceive that the fewer they have to manage, the
more complete is the peace and quiet of the wigwam.
Nevertheless, it sometimes happens that a husband
takes a foolish fancy for a second squaw, and in that
340 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST
case he uses all Ms cunning and eloquence to reconcile
the first to receiving a new inmate in the lodge. Of
course it is a matter that must be managed adroitly, in
order that harmony may be preserved.
u My dear, your health is not very good, it is time
you should have some rest. You have worked very
hard, and it grieves me that you should have to labor
any longer. Let me get you some nice young squaw
to wait upon you, that you may live at ease all the rest
of your life."
The first wife consents indeed, she has no option.
If she is of a jealous, vindictive disposition, what a
life the new comer leads ! The old one maintains all
her rights of dowager and duenna, and the husband's
tenderness is hardly a compensation for all the evils
the young rival is made to suffer.
It was on Sunday morning that this visit of the
Dandy was made to us. "We were all seated quietly,
engaged in reading. Four-Legs inquired of my mo-
ther, why we were so occupied, and why everything
around us was so still.
My mother explained to him our observance of the
day of rest that we devoted it to worshipping and
serving the Great Spirit, as he had commanded in his
Holy Word.
Four-Legs gave a nod of approbation. That was
very right, he said he was glad to see us doing our
FOUR-LEGS, THE DANDY. 341
duty he was very religious himself, and he liked to
see others so. He always took care that his squaws
attended to their duty, not reading perhaps, but such
as the Great Spirit liked, and such as he thought
proper and becoming.
He seemed to have no fancy for listening to any
explanation of our points of difference. The impres-
sion among the Winnebagoes " that if the Great Spirit
had wished them different from what they are, he
would have made them so," seems too strong to yield
to either argument or persuasion.
Sometimes those who are desirous of appearing
somewhat civilized will listen quietly to all that is ad-
vanced on the subject of Christianity, and coolly say-
ing, "Yes, we believe that, too," will change the con-
versation to other subjects.
As a general thing, they do not appear to perceive
that there is anything to be gained, by adopting the
religion and the customs of the whites. " Look at
them, "they say, "always toiling and striving always
wearing a brow of care shut up in houses afraid of
the wind and the rain suffering when they are de-
prived of the comforts of life ! "We, on the contrary,
live a life of freedom and happiness. We hunt and
fish, and pass our time pleasantly in the open woods
and prairies. If we are hungry, we take some game ;-
or, if we do not find that, we can go without. If our
enemies trouble us, we can kill them, and there is no
342 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
more said about it. "What should we gain by chang-
ing ourselves into white men?"*
I have never heard that Christian missionaries, with
all their efforts to convert them, have made much pro-
gress in enlightening their minds upon the doctrines
of the Gospel. Mr. Mazzuchelli, a Eoman Catholic
priest, accompanied by Miss Elizabeth Grignon as in-
terpreter, made a missionary visit to the Portage dur-
ing our residence there, and, after some instruction to
them, about forty consented to be baptized. Christian
names were given to them with which they seemed
much pleased ; and not less so, with the little plated
crucifixes which each received, and which the women
wore about their necks. These they seemed to regard
with a devotional feeling ; but I was not sufficiently
acquainted with their language to gather from them
whether they understood the doctrine the symbol was
designed to convey. Certain it is, they expressed no
wish to learn our language, in order that they might
gain a fuller knowledge of the Saviour, nor any solici-
tude to be taught more about him than they had re-
ceived during the missionary's short visit.
One woman, to whom the name of Charlotte had been
given, signified a desire to learn the domestic ways of
the whites, and asked of me as a favor through
* It will be remembered that these were the arguments used a
quarter of a century ago, when the Indians possessed most of the
broad lands on the Upper Mississippi and its tributaries.
FOUR-LEGS, THE DANDY. 343
Madame Paquette that she might be permitted to come
on " washing-day," and learn of my servants our way
of managing the business. A tub was given her, and
my woman instructed her, by signs and example, how
she was to manage. As I was not a little curious to
observe how things went on, I proceeded after a time
to the kitchen where they all were. Charlotte was at
her tub, scouring and rubbing with all her might at
her little crucifix. Two other squaws sat upon the floor
near her, watching the operation.
" That is the work she has been at for the last half
hour," said Josette, in a tone of great impatience.
" She'll never learn to wash."
Charlotte, however, soon fell diligently to work, and
really seemed as if she would tear her arms off, with
her violent exertions.
After a time, supposing that she must feel a good
deal fatigued and exhausted with unaccustomed
labor, I did what it was at that day very much the
fashion to do, what, at home, I had always seen done
on washing-day, what, in short, I imagine was then a
general custom among housekeepers. I went to the
dining-room closet, intending to give Charlotte a glass
of wine or brandy and water. My " cupboard " proved
to be in the state of the luckless " Mother Hubbard's
nothing of the kind could I find but a bottle of orange
shrub.
Of this I poured out a wine-glass full, and, carrying
344 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
it out, offered it to the woman. She took it with an
expression of great pleasure ; but, in carrying it to her
lips, she stopped short, and exclaiming " Whiskee I"
immediately returned it to me. I would still have
pressed it upon her ; for, in my inexperience, I really
believed it was a cordial she needed ; but, pointing to
her crucifix, she shook her head and returned to her
work.
I received this as a lesson more powerful than
twenty sermons. It was the first time in my life that
I had ever seen spirituous liquors rejected upon a reli-
gious principle, and it made an impression upon me
that I never forgot
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE CUT -NOSE.
AMONG the women of the tribe with whom we early
became acquainted, our greatest favorite was a daugh-
ter of one of the Day-kau-rays. This family, as I have
elsewhere said, boasted in some remote generation a
cross of the French blood, and this fact may account
for the fair complexion and soft curling hair which dis-
tinguished our friend. She had a noble forehead, full
expressive eyes, and fine teeth. Unlike the women of
her people, she had not grown brown and haggard with
advancing years. Indeed, with the exception of one
feature, she might be called beautiful.
She had many years before married a Mus-qua-kee,
or Fox Indian, and, according to the custom among all
the tribes, the husband came home to the wife's family,
and lived among the Winnebagoes.
It is this custom, so exactly the reverse of civilized
ways, that makes the birth of a daughter a subject of
peculiar rejoicing in an Indian family. "She will
bring another hunter to our lodge," is the style of
mutual congratulation.
The Mus-qua-kee continued, for some few years, to
15*
346 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
live among his wife's relations ; but, as no children
blessed their union, he at length became tired of his
new friends, and longed to return to his own people.
He tried, for a time, to persuade his wife to leave her
home, and accompany him to the Mississippi, where the
Sacs and Foxes live, but in vain. She could not re-
solve to make the sacrifice.
One day, after many fruitless efforts to persuade her,
he flew into a violent passion.
" Then, if you will not go with me," said he, " I will
leave you ; but you shall never be the wife of any other
man I will mark you !"
Saying this, he flew upon her, and bit off the end of
her nose. This, the usual punishment for conjugal infi-
delity, is the greatest disgrace a woman can receive it
bars her forever from again entering the pale of matri-
mony. The wretch fled to his own people ; but his
revenge fell short of its aim. Day-kau-ray was too
well known and too universally respected to suffer op-
probium in any member of his family. This bright,
loving creature in particular, won all hearts upon a first
acquaintance she certainly did ours, from the outset.
She suffered much from rheumatism, and a remedy
we gave her soon afforded her almost entire relief. Her
gratitude knew no bounds. Notwithstanding, that from
long suffering she had become partially crippled, she
would walk all the way from the Barribault, a distance
of ten miles, as often as once in two or three weeks, to
THE CUT-NOSE. 347
visit us. Then, to sit and gaze at us, to laugh with
childish glee at everything new or strange that we em-
ployed ourselves about to pat and stroke us every
time we came near her sometimes to raise our hand
or arms and kiss them these were her demonstrations
of affection. And we loved her in return. It was
always a joyful announcement when, looking out over
the Portage road, somebody called out, " the Gut-nose
is coming!" In time, however, we learned to call her
by her baptismal name of Elizabeth, for she, too, was
one of Mr. Mazzuchelli's converts.
She came one day, accompanied by a half-grown
boy, carrying a young fawn, she had brought me as a
present. I was delighted with the pretty creature
with its soft eyes and dappled coat ; but having often
heard the simile, "as wild as a fawn," I did not anti-
cipate much success in taming it. To my great sur-
prise, it soon learned to follow me like a dog. Where-
ever I went, there Fan was sure to be. At breakfast,
she would lie down at my feet, under the table. One
of her first tokens of affection was to gnaw off all the
trimming from my black silk apron, as she lay pre-
tending to caress and fondle me. Nor was this her
only style of mischief.
One day we heard a great rattling among the crock-
ery in the kitchen. We ran to see what was the mat-
ter, and found that Miss Fan had made her way
to a shelf of the dresser, about two feet from the
348 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
ground, and was endeavoring to find a comfortable place
to lie down, among the plates and dishes. I soon ob-
served that it was the shelter of the shelf above her head
that was the great attraction, and that she was in the
habit of seeking out a place of repose under a chair, or
something approaching to an "umbrageous bower."
So after this I took care, as the hour for her morning
nap approached, to open a large green parasol, and set
it on the matting in the corner then when I called
Fan, Fan, she would come and nestle under it, and
soon fall fast asleep.
One morning Fan was missing. In vain we called
and sought her in the garden in the enclosure for the
cattle at the houses of the Frenchmen along the hill
towards Paquette's no Fan was to be found. "We
thought she had asserted her own wild nature and sped
away to the woods.
It was a hot forenoon, and the doors were all open.
About dinner time, in rushed Fan, panting violently,
and threw herself upon her side, where she lay with
her feet outstretched, her mouth foaming, and exhibit-
ing all the signs of mortal agony. We tried to give
her water, to soothe her, if perhaps it might be fright
that so affected her ; but in a few minutes, with a gasp
and a spasm, she breathed her last. Whether she had
been chased by the greyhounds, or whether she had
eaten some poisonous weed, which, occasioning her
suffering, had driven her to her best friends for aid,
THE CUT-NOSE. 349
we never knew ; but we lost our pretty pet, and many
were the tears shed for her.
Yery shortly after the departure of my husband, we
received a visit from " the White Crow," " the Little
Priest," and several others of the principal chiefs of the
Rock River Indians. They seemed greatly disap-
pointed at learning that their father was from home,
even though his errand was to get "the silver." We
sent for Paquette, who interpreted for us the object of
their visit.
They had come to inform us that the Sac Chiefj
Black Hawk and his band, who, in compliance with a
former treaty, had removed sometime previous to the
west of the Mississippi, had now returned to their old
homes and hunting grounds, and expressed a determi-
nation not to relinquish them, but to drive off the
white settlers who had begun to occupy them.
The latter, in fact, he had already done, and having,
as it was said, induced some of the Pottowattamies to
join him, there was reason to fear that he might
persuade some of the Winnebagoes to follow their
example.
These chiefs had come to counsel with their father,
and to assure him that they should do all in their
power to keep their young men quiet. They had
heard that troops were being raised down among the
350 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
whites in Illinois, and they had hopes that their people
would be wise enough to keep out of difficulty. Fur-
thermore, they begged that their father, on his return,
would see that the soldiers did not meddle with them,
so long as they remained quiet and behaved in a
friendly manner.
White Crow seemed particularly anxious to impress
it upon me, that if any danger should arise in Shaw-
nee-aw-kee's absence, he should come with his people
to protect me and my family. I relied upon his
assurances, for he had ever shown himself an upright
and honorable Indian.
Notwithstanding this, the thoughts of "Indian
troubles" so near us, in the absence of our guardian
and protector, occasioned us many an anxious moment,
and it was not until we learned of the peaceable re-
treat of the Sacs and Foxes, west of the Mississippi,
that we were able wholly to lay aside our fears.
We were now called to part with our friends, Major
Twiggs and his family, which we did with heartfelt
regret. He gave me a few parting words about our
old acquaintance, Christman.
" When I went into the barracks the other day,"
said he, " about the time the men were taking their
dinner, I noticed a great six-foot soldier standing
against the window-frame, crying and blubbering.
c Halloo,' said I, ' what on earth does this mean ?'
" ' Why, that fellow there,' said Christman, (for it
THE CUT-NOSE. 351
was lie), ' has scrowged me out of my place !' A
pretty soldier your protege will make, madam !"
I never heard any more of my hero. Whether he
went to exhibit his prowess against the Seminoles and
Mexicans, or whether he returned to till the fertile soil
of his native German Flats, and blow his favorite boat-
man's horn, must be left for some future historian to
tell.
There is one more character to be disposed of
Louisa. An opportunity offering in the Spring, the
Major had placed her under the charge of a person
going to Buffalo, that she might be returned to her
parents. In compliment to the new acquaintances she
had formed, she shortened her skirts, mounted a pair
of scarlet leggins, embroidered with porcupine quills,
and took her leave of military life, having deposited
with the gentleman who took charge of her, sixty dol-
lars, for safe keeping, which she remarked " she had
saved up, out of her wages at a dollar a week through
the winter."
A very short time after we were settled in our new
home at the Agency, we attempted the commencement
of a little Sunday School. Edwin, Harry and Josette,
were our most reliable scholars, but besides them, there
were the two little Manaigres, Therese Paquette, and
her mother's half sister, Florence Courville, a pretty
352 THE EAKLY DAY IN" THE NORTH-WEST.
young girl of fifteen. None of these girls had even
learned their letters. They spoke only French, or
rather, the Canadian patois, and it was exceedingly
difficult to give them at once the sound of the words,
and their signification, which they were careful to in-
quire. Besides this, there was the task of correcting
the false ideas, and remedying the ignorance and su-
perstition which presented so formidable an obstacle
to rational improvement. We did our best, however,
and had the satisfaction of seeing them, after a time,
making really respectable progress with their spelling-
book, and what was still more encouraging, acquiring
a degree of light and knowledge in regard to better
things.
In process of time, however, Florence was often
absent from her class. " Her sister," she said, " could
not always spare her. She wanted her to keep house
while she, herself, went over on Sunday to visit her
friends, the Roys, who lived on the Wisconsin."
We reasoned with Madame Paquette on the subject.
" Could she not spare Florence on some hour of the
day ? We would gladly teach her on a week day, for
she seemed anxious to learn, but we had always been
told that for that there was no time."
" Well she would see. Madame Allum (Helm)
and Madame John, were so kind !"
There was no improvement, however, in regularity.
After a time Manaigre was induced to send his children
THE CUT-NOSE. 353
to Mr. Cadle's mission-school at Green Bay. Therese
accompanied them, and very soon Florence discon-
tinued her attendance altogether.
We were obliged, from that time forward, to confine
our instructions to our own domestic circle.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
INDIAN CUSTOMS AND DANCES.
BEFORE we had any right to look for my husband's
return, I one day received a message inviting me to
come up to the new house. We all went in a body,
for we had purposely staid away a few days, expect-
ing this summons, of which we anticipated the mean-
ing.
Plante, in full glee, was seated astride of a small keg
on the roof, close beside the kitchen chimney, on the
very summit of which he had planted a green bough.
To this he held fast with one hand, while he exultingly
waved the other and called out,
"Eh! ban, Madame John! d cette heure, pour fe
" Yes, Plante, you are entitled to a treat, and I hope
you will not enjoy it the less that Pillon and Manaigre
are to share it with you."
A suitable gratification made them quite contented
with their " bourgeoise" against whom Plante had some-
times been inclined to grumble, "because," as he said,
" she had him called up too early in the morning."
(864)
INDIAN CUSTOMS AND DANCES. 355
He might have added, because, too, she could not un-
derstand the philosophy of his coming in to work in
his own garden, under the plea that it was too wet and
rainy to work in Monsieur John's.
It was with no ordinary feelings of satisfaction, that
we quitted the old log tenement for our new dwelling,
small and insignificant though it was.
I was only too happy to enjoy the luxury of a real
bed-chamber, in place of the parlor floor which I had
occupied as such for more than two months. It is
true that our culinary arrangements were still upon
no improved plan. The clay chimney was not of suf-
ficient strength 'to hold the trammel and pot-hooks,
which, at that day had not been quite superseded by the
cooking-stove and kitchen-range. Our fire was made
as in the olden time, with vast logs behind, and
smaller sticks in front, laid across upon the andirons
or dogs. Upon the sticks were placed such of the
cooking-utensils as could not be accommodated on the
hearth, but woe to the dinner or the supper, if through
a little want of care or scrutiny one treacherous piece
was suffered to burn away. Down would come the
whole arrangement kettles, saucepans, burning brands
and cinders, in one almost inextricable mass. How
often this happened under the supervision of Harry or
little Josette, while the mistress was playing lady to
some visitor in the parlor, " 'twere vain to tell."
Then, spite of Mons. Plante's palisades round the
356 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
chimney, in a hard shower the rain would come pelt-
ing down, and, the hearth unfortunately sloping a little
the wrong way, the fire would become extinguished ;
while the bark on the roof, failing to do its duty, we
were now and then so completely deluged, that there
was no resource but to catch up the breakfast or dinner
and tuck it under the table until better times that is,
till fair weather came again. In spite of all these
little adverse occurrences, however, we enjoyed our
new quarters exceedingly.
Our garden was well furnished with vegetables, and
even the currant bushes which we had brought from
Chicago with us, tied in a bundle at the back of the
carriage, had produced us some fruit.
The Indian women were very constant in their visits
and their presents. Sometimes it was venison some-
times ducks or pigeons whortleberries, wild plums,
or cranberries, according to the season neat pretty
mats for the floor or the table wooden bowls or ladles,
fancy work of deer-skin or porcupine quills. These
they would bring in and throw at my feet. If through
inattention I failed to look pleased, to raise the articles
from the floor and lay them carefully aside, a look of
mortification and the observation, " Our mother hates
our gifts," showed how much their feelings were
wounded. It was always expected that a present
would be received graciously, and returned with some-
thing twice its value.
INDIAN CUSTOMS AND DANCES. 357
Meantime, week after week wore on, and still was
the return of "the master" delayed.
The rare arrival of a schooner at Green Bay, in
which to take passage for Detroit, made it always a
matter of uncertainty what length of time would be
necessary for a journey there and back again so that
it was not until the last of August that he again reached
his home. Great was his surprise to find us so nicely
"moved and settled," and under his active supervi-
sion, the evils of which we had to complain were soon
remedied.
My husband had met at Fort Gratiot, and brought
with him, my young brother, Julian, whom my parents
were sending, at our request, to reside with us. Edwin
was overjoyed to have a companion once more, for
he had hitherto been very solitary. They soon had
enough to occupy their attention, for, in obedience to
a summons sent to the different villages, the Indians
very shortly came flocking in to the payment.
There was among their number this year, one whom
I had never seen before the mother of the elder Day-
kau-ray. No one could tell her age, but all agreed
that she must have seen upwards of a hundred win-
ters. Her eyes dimmed, and almost white with age
her face dark and withered, like a baked apple her
voice tremulous and feeble, except when raised in fury
to reprove her graceless grandsons, who were fond of
358 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
playing her all sorts of mischievous tricks, indicated
the very great age she must have attained.
She usually went upon all fours, not having strength
to hold herself erect. On the day of the payment,
having received her portion, which she carefully hid
in the corner of her blanket, she came crawling along
and seated herself on the door-step, to count her treas-
ure.
My sister and I were watching her movements from
the open window.
Presently, just as she had, unobserved as she thought,
spread out her silver before her, two of her descendants
came suddenly upon her. At first they seemed beg-
ging for a share, but she repulsed them with angry
gestures, when one of them made a sudden swoop, and
possessed himself of a tolerable handful.
She tried to rise, to pursue him, but was unable to
do more than clutch the remainder, and utter the most
unearthly screams of rage. ' At this instant the boys
raised their eyes and perceived us regarding them.
They burst into a laugh, and with a sort of mocking
gesture they threw her the half-dollars, and ran back to
the pay-ground.
I think there was but little earnest in their vexatious
tricks, for she seemed very fond of them, and never
failed to beg something of " her father," that she could
bestow upon them.
INDIAN CUSTOMS AND DANCES. 359
She crept into the parlor one morning, .when straight-
ening herself up, and supporting herself by the frame
of the door, she cried in a most piteous tone " Shaw-
nee-aw-kee ! "Wau-tshob-ee-rah Thsoonsh-koo-nee-noh !"
(Silver-man, I have no looking-glass.) Her "father"
smiling and taking up the same little tone, cried in re-
turn,
" Do you wish to look at yourself Mother ?"
The idea seemed to her so irresistibly comic, that
she laughed until she was fairly obliged to seat herself
upon the floor and give way to her enjoyment. . She then
owned that it was for one of the boys that she wanted
the little mirror. When her father had given it to her,
she found that she had " no comb," then that she had
" no knife," then that she had "no calico shawl," until
it ended, as it generally did, by Shaw-nee-aw-kee pay-
ing pretty dearly for his joke.
When the Indians arrived and when they departed,
my sense of " woman's rights " was often greatly out-
raged. The master of the family, as a general thing,
came leisurely bearing his gun and perhaps a lance in
his hand. The woman, with the mats and poles of her
lodge upon her shoulders, her pappoose, if she had
one, her kettles, sacks of corn, and wild rice, and not
tmfrequently, the household dog perched on the top of
360 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
all. If there is a horse or pony in the list of family-
possessions, the man rides, the squaw trudges after.
This unequal division of labor is the result of no
want of kind, affectionate feeling on the part of the hus-
band. It is rather the instinct of the sex to assert
their superiority of position and importance, when a
proper occasion offers. When out of the reach of ob-
servation, and in no danger of compromising his own
dignity, the husband is willing enough to relieve his
spouse from the burden that custom imposes on her,
by sharing her labors and hardships.
The payment had not passed without its appropriate
number of complimentary and medicine dances. The
latter take place only at rare intervals the former
whenever an occasion presents itself demanding a
manifestation of respect and courtesy.
It is the custom to ask permission of the person to
be complimented, to dance for him. This granted,
preparation is made by painting the face elaborately,
and marking the person, which is usually bare about
the chest and shoulders, after the most approved pat-
tern. All the ornaments that can be mustered, are ad-
ded to the hair, or head dress. Happy is he, who, in
virtue of having taken one or more scalps, is entitled
to proclaim it by a corresponding number of eagle's
feathers. The less fortunate make a substitute of the
feathers of the wild turkey, or, better still, of the first
unlucky " rooster " that falls in their way. My poor
INDIAN CUSTOMS AND DANCES. 361
fowls, during the time of payment, were always thor-
oughly plucked.
When their preparations are completed, the dancers
assemble at some convenient place, and then come
marching to the spot appointed, accompanied by the
music of the Indian drum and shee-shee-qua or rattle.
They range themselves in a circle and dance with vio-
lent contortions and gesticulations, some of them grace-
ful, others only energetical, the squaws, who stand a
little apart, and mingle their discordant voices with
the music of the instruments, rarely participating
in the dance. Occasionally, however, when excited
by the general gaiety, a few of them will form a circle
outside and perform a sort of ungraceful, up and down
movement, which was no merit, save the perfect time
which is kept, and for which, the Indians seem, with-
out exception, to possess a natural ear.
The dance finished, which is only when the strength
of the dancers is quite exhausted, a quantity of presents
are brought and placed in the middle of the circle, by
order of the party complimented. An equitable dis-
tribution is made, by one of their number ; and the ob-
ject of all this display having been accomplished, they
retire.
The medicine-dance is carried on chiefly to celebrate
the skill of the " Medicine-man," in curing diseases.
This functionary belongs to a fraternity who are sup-
posed to add to their other powers some skill in
16
362 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
interpreting the will of the Great Spirit in regard to
the conduct of his people. He occasionally makes
offerings and sacrifices which are regarded as propitia-
tory. In this sense, the term " priest" may be deemed
applicable to him. He is also a " prophet" in so far
as he is, in a limited degree, an instructor, but does not
claim to possess the gift of foretelling future events.
A person is selected to join the fraternity of the
" Medicine-man" by those already initiated, chiefly on
account of some skill or sagacity that has been observ-
ed in him. Sometimes it happens that a person who
has had a severe illness which has yielded to the pre-
scriptions of one of the members, is considered a pro-
per object of choice from a sort of claim thus estab-
lished.
When he is about to be initiated, a great feast is
made, of course at the expense of the candidate, for in
the most simple, as in the most civilized life, the same
principle of politics holds good, " honors must be paid
for." An animal is killed and dressed, of which the
people at large partake there are dances and songs
and speeches in abundance. Then the chief Medicine-
man takes the candidate and privately instructs him in
all the ceremonies and knowledge necessary to make
nim an accomplished member of the fraternity. Some-
times the new member selected is still a child. In that
case he is taken by the Medicine-man so soon as he
reaches a proper age, and qualified by instruction
INDIAN CUSTOMS AND DANCES. 363
and example to become a creditable member of the
fraternity.
Among the Winnebagoes, there seems a considera-
ble belief in magic. Each Medicine-man has a bag or
sack, in which is supposed to be enclosed some animal,
to whom in the course of their paw-wows, he addresses
himself, crying to him in the note common to his im-
agined species. And the people seem to be persuaded
that the answers which are announced are really com-
munications in this form, from the Great Spirit.
The Indians appear to have no idea of a retribution
beyond this life. They have a strong appreciation of
the great, fundamental virtues of natural religion -the
worship of the Great Spirit, brotherly love, parental
affection, honesty, temperance and chastity. Any in-
fringement of the laws of the Great Spirit, by a
departure from these virtues, they believe will excite
his anger, and draw down punishment. These are
their principles. That their practice evinces more and
more, a departure from them, under the debasing
influences of a proximity to the whites, is a melan-
choly truth, which no one will admit with so much
sorrow as those who lived among them, and esteemed
them, a quarter of a century ago, before this signal
change had taken place.
One of the first improvements that suggested itself
about our new dwelling, had been the removal of some
364 THE EAKLY DAY IN THE NOKTH-WEST.
very unsightly pickets surrounding two or three
Indian graves, on the esplanade in front of the house.
Such, however, is the reverence in which these burial-
places are held, that we felt we must approach the sub-
ject with great delicacy and consideration.
My husband at length ventured to propose to Mrs.
" Pawnee Blanc," the nearest surviving relative of the
person interred, to replace the pickets with a neat
wooden platform.
The idea pleased her much, for through her intimacy
in Paquette's family, she had acquired something of
a taste for civilization. Accordingly a little struc-
ture about a foot in height, properly finished with a
moulding around the edge, was substituted for the
worn and blackened pickets, and it was touching to
witness the mournful satisfaction with which two or
three old crones would come regularly every evening
at sunset, to sit and gossip over the ashes of their de-
parted relatives.
On the fine, moonlight nights too, there might often
be seen a group sitting there, and enjoying what is to
them a solemn hour, for they entertain the poetic be-
lief that " the moon was made to give light to the
dead."
The reverence of the Indians for the memory of their
departed friends, and their dutiful attention in visiting
and making offerings to the Great Spirit, over their
last resting-places, is an example worthy of imitation
INDIAN" CUSTOMS AND DANCES. 365
among their more enlightened brethren. Not so,
however, with some of their customs in relation to the
dead.
The news of the decease of one of their number is a
signal for a general mourning and lamentation it is
also, in some instances, I am sorry to say, when the
means and appliances can be- found, the apology for a
general carouse.
The relatives weep and howl for grief the friends
and acquaintance bear them company through sym-
pathy. A few of their number are deputed to wait
upon their "father," to inform him of the event, and
to beg some presents "to help them," as they express
it, " dry up their tears."
We received such a visit one morning, not long after
the payment was concluded.
A little drunken Indian, named by the French peo-
ple around, " Old Boilvin," from his resemblance to an
Indian Agent of that name, at Prairie du Chien, was
the person on account of whose death the application
was made. "He had been fishing," they said, "on
the shores of one of the little lakes near the Portage,
and having taken a little too much ' whiskee,' had fall-
en into the water and been drowned." Nothing of him
had been found but his blanket on the bank, so there
could be no funeral ceremonies, but they were pre-
pared to make a great lamentation about him.
Their father presented them with tobacco, knives,
366 THE EAKLY DAY EST THE NORTH-WEST.
calico and looking-glasses, in proportion to what he
thought might be their reasonable grief at the loss of
such a worthless vagabond, and they departed.
There was no difficulty, notwithstanding the stringent
prohibitions on the subject, in procuring a keg of whis-
key from some of the traders who yet remained, so
armed with that and their other treasures, they assem-
bled at an appointed spot, not far from the scene of the
catastrophe, and sitting down with the keg in their
midst, they commenced their affliction. The more
they drank the more clamorous became their grief, and
the faster flowed their tears.
In the midst of these demonstrations a little figure,
bent and staggering, covered with mud and all in dis-
order, with a countenance full of wonder and sympa-
thy, approached them and began,
"Why's what? what? Who's dead?"
" Who! dead ?" repeated they, looking up in aston-
ishment, " Why, you're dead ! you were drowned in
Swan Lake ! Did not we find your blanket there ?
Come, sit down and help us mourn."
^t
The old man did not wait for a second invitation.
He took his seat and cried and drank with the rest,
weeping and lamenting as bitterly as any of them, and
the strange scene was continued as long as they had
power to articulate, or any portion of the whiskey was
left.
CHAPTER XXIX.
STORY OF THE RED FOX-
THE Indians, of whatever tribe, are exceedingly
fond of narrating or listening to tales and stories,
whether historical or fictitious. They have their pro-
fessed story-tellers, like the oriental nations, and these
go about, from village to village, collecting an admir-
ing and attentive audience, however oft-told and famil-
iar the matter they recite.
It is in this way that their traditions are preserved
and handed down unimpaired from generation to gen-
eration. Their knowledge of the geography of their
country is wonderfully exact. I have seen an Indian
sit in his lodge, and draw a map in the ashes, of the
North- Western States, not of its statistical but its geo-
graphical features, lakes, rivers, and mountains, with
the greatest accuracy, giving their relative distances,
by day's journeys, without hesitation, and even extend-
ing his drawings and explanations as far as Kentucky
and Tennessee.
Of biography they preserve not only the leading
events in the life of the person, but his features, ap-
pearance and bearing, his manners, and whatever little
trait or peculiarity characterized him.
(8T)
368 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
The women are more fond of fiction, and some of
their stories have a strange mingling of humor and
pathos. I give the two which follow 'as specimens.
The Indian names contained in them are in the Ottawa
or " Courte Oreilles " language, but the same tales are
current in all the different tongues and dialects.
STORY OF THE RED FOX.
This is an animal to which many peculiarities are
attributed. He is said to resemble the jackal in his
habit of molesting the graves of the dead, and the
Indians have a superstitious dread of hearing his bark
at night, believing that it forebodes calamity and death.
They say, too, that he was originally of one uniform
reddish-brown color, but that his legs became black in
the manner related in the story.
There was a chief of a certain village who. had a
beautiful daughter. He resolved upon one occasion
to make a feast, and invite all the animals. When the
invitation was brought to the red fox he inquired,
"What are you going to have for supper?"
" Mee-dau-mee-nau-lo" was the reply.
This is a porridge made of parched corn, slightly
cracked. The fox turned up his little sharp nose.
" No, I thank you," said he, " I can get plenty of that
at home."
STORY OF THE EED FOX. 369
The messenger returned to the chief, and reported
the contemptuous refusal of the fox.
" Go back to him," said the chief, " and tell him we
are going to have a nice fresh body,* and we will have
it cooked in the most delicate manner possible."
Pleased with the prospect of such a treat, the fox
gave a very hearty assent to the second invitation.
The hour arrived, and he sat off for the lodge of
the chief to attend the feast. The company were all
prepared for him, for they made common cause with
their friend who had been insulted. As the fox en-
tered, the guest next the door with great courtesy rose
from his place, and begged the new comer to be seated.
Immediately the person next him also rose, and insisted
that the fox should occupy his place, as it was still
nearer the fire the post of honor. Then the third,
with many expressions of civility, pressed him to ex-
change with him, and thus, with many ceremonious
flourishes, he was passed along the circle, always ap-
proaching the fire, where a huge cauldron stood, in
which the good cheer was still cooking. The fox was
by no means unwilling to occupy the highest place in
the assembly, and besides, he was anxious to take a
peep into the kettle, for he had his suspicions that he
might be disappointed of the delicacies he had been
expecting.
* The Indians in relating a story like this, apologize for alluding
to a revolting subject. " You will think this unpleasant" they say.
16*
370 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
So, by degrees, he was ushered nearer and nearer
the great blazing fire, until by a dexterous push and
shove he was hoisted into the seething kettle.
His feet were dreadfully scalded, but he leaped out,
and ran home to his lodge, howling and crying with
pain. His grandmother, with whom, according to the
custom of animals, he lived, demanded of him an ac-
count of the affair. When he had faithfully related
all the circumstances (for, unlike the civilized animals,
he did not think of telling his grandmother a story),
she reproved him very strongly.
"You have committed two great faults," said she.
" In the first place you were very rude to tjie chief
who was so kind as to invite you, and by returning
insult for civility, you made yourself enemies who were
determined to punish you. In the next place, it was
very unbecoming in you to be so forward to take the
place of honor. Had you been contented modestly
to keep your seat near the door, you would have
escaped the misfortune that has befallen you."
All this was not very consolatory to the poor fox,
who continued to whine and cry most piteously, while
his grandmother, having finished her lecture, proceeded
to bind up his wounds. Great 'virtue is supposed to
be added to all medical prescriptions and applications
by a little dancing, so, the dressing having been ap-
plied, the grandmother fell to dancing with all her
might, round and round in the lodge.
STORY OF THE RED FOX. 371
When she was nearly exhausted, the fox said,
" Grandmother, take off the bandages and see if my
legs are healed."
She did as he requested, but no the burns were
still fresh. She danced and danced again. Now and
then, as he grew impatient, she would remove the
coverings to observe the effect of the remedies. At
length, towards morning, she looked, and, to be sure,
the burns were quite healed. "But oh!" cried she,
"your legs are as black as a coal! They were so
badly burned that they will never return to their
color!"
The poor fox, who, like many another brave, was
vain of his legs, fell into a transport of lamentation.
" Oh ! my legs ! My pretty red legs ! "What shall
I do ? The young girls will all despise me. I shall
never .dare to show myself among them again!"
He cried and sobbed until his grandmother, fatigued
with her exercise, fell asleep. By this time he had
decided upon his plan of revenge.
He rose and stole softly out of his lodge, and pur-
suing his way rapidly towards the village of the chief,
he turned his face in the direction of the principal
lodge and barked. When the inhabitants heard this
sound in the stillness of the night, their hearts trem-
bled. They knew that it foreboded sorrow and trouble
to some one of their number.
A very short time elapsed before the beautiful
372 THE EAELY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
daughter of the chief fell sick ; and she grew rapidly
worse and worse, spite of medicines, charms, and
dances. At length she died. The fox had not in-
tended to bring misfortune on the village in this shape,
for he loved the beautiful daughter of the chief, so he
kept in his lodge and mourned and fretted for her
death.
Preparations were made for a magnificent funeral,
but the friends of the deceased were in great perplex-
ity. " If we bury her in the earth," said they, " the fox
will come and disturb her remains. He has barked
her to death, and he will be glad to come and finish
his work of revenge."
They took counsel together, and determined to hang
her body high in a tree as a place of sepulture. They
thought the fox would go groping about in the earth,
and not lift up his eyes to the branches above his
head.
But the grandmother had been at the funeral, and
she returned and told the fox all that had been done.
"Now, my son," said she, "listen to me. Do not
meddle with the remains of the Chief's daughter. You
have done mischief enough already leave her in
peace."
As soon as the grandmother was asleep at night, the
fox rambled forth. He soon found the place he sought,
and came and sat under the tree where the young girl
had been placed. He gazed and gazed at her, all the
STORY OF THE RED FOX. 373
live-long night, and she appeared as beautiful as when
in life. But when the day dawned, and the light ena-
bled hirri to see more clearly, then he observed that
decay was doing its work that instead of a beauti-
ful, she presented only a loathsome appearance.
He went home sad and afflicted, and passed all the
day mourning in his lodge.
"Have you disturbed the remains of the Chief's
beautiful daughter?" was his parent's anxious ques-
tion.
"No, grandmother," and he uttered not another
word.
Thus it went on for many days and nights. The
fox always took care to quit his watch at the early
dawn of day, for he knew that her friends would sus-
pect him, and come betimes to see if all was right.
. At length he perceived that, gradually, she looked
less and less hideous in the morning light, and that she
by degrees, resumed the appearance she had presented
in life, so that in process of time, her beauty and look
of health quite returned to her.
One day he said, "Grandmother, give me my pipe,
that I may take a smoke."
" Ah !" cried she, " you begin to be comforted. You
have never smoked since the death of the chief's beau-
tiful daughter. Have you heard some good news?"
"Never you mind," said he, "bring the pipe."
He sat down and smoked, and smoked. After a time
374 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
he said, " Grandmother, sweep your lodge and put it
all in order, for this day you will receive a visit from
your daughter-in-law." *
The grandmother did as she was desired. She swept
her lodge, and arranged it with all the taste she pos-
sessed, and then both sat down to await the visit.
"When you hear a sound at the door," said the
Fox, "you must give the salutation, and say, Come
in."
When they had been thus seated for a time, the
grandmother heard a faint, rustling sound. She looked
towards the door. To her surprise, the mat which
usually hung as a curtain was rolled up, and the door
was open.
" Peen-tee-geen n'dau-nis!"* cried she.
Something like a faint, faint shadow appeared to
glide in. It took gradually a more distinct outline.
As she looked and looked, she began to discern the
form and features of the Chief's beautiful daughter,
but it was long before she appeared like a reality, and
took her place in the lodge like a thing of flesh and
blood.
They kept the matter hid very close, for they would
not for the world that the father or friends of the
bride should know what had happened. Soon, how-
ever, it began to be rumored about that the chief's
beautiful daughter had returned to life, and was living
* Come in, my daughter.
STORY OF THE BED FOX. 375
in the Eed Fox's lodge. How it e,ver became known
was a mystery, for, of course, the grandmother never
spoke of it.
Be that as it may, the news created great excitement
in the village. " This must never be," said they<all.
" He barked her to death once, and who knows what
he may do next time."
The father took at once a decided part. " The Eed
Fox is not worthy of my daughter," he said. "I had
promised her to the Hart, the finest and most elegant
among the animals. Now that she has returned to
life, I shall keep my word."
So the friends all went in a body to the lodge of
the Eed Fox. The bridegroom, the bride and the
grandmother, made all the resistance possible, but they
were overpowered by numbers, and the Hart having
remained conveniently, waiting on the outside where
there was no danger, the beautiful daughter of the
chief was placed upon his back, and he coursed away
through the forest to carry her to his own home.
When he arrived at the door of his lodge, however,
he turned his head, but no bride was in the place
where he expected to see her. He had thought his
burden very light from the beginning, but that he sup-
posed was natural to spirits returned from the dead.
He never imagined she had at the outset glided from
her seat, and in the midst of the tumult slipped back,
unobserved, to her chosen husband.
376 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
One or two attempts were made by the friends, after
this, to repossess themselves of the young creature,
but all without success. Then they said, " Let her re-
main where she is. It is true the Eed Fox occasioned
her death, but by his watchfulness and care he caressed
her into life again ; therefore she rightfully belongs to
him." So the Eed Fox and his beautiful bride lived
long together in great peace and happiness
CHAPTER XXX.
STORY OF SHEE-SHEE-BANZE.
THEEE was a young man named Shee-shee-banze
(the Little Duck), paddling his canoe along the shore
of the lake.
Two girls came down to the edge of the water, and
seeing him, the elder said to the younger, " Let us
call to him 'to take us a sail."
It must be remarked that in all Indian stories where
two or more sisters are the dramatis personse, the elder
is invariably represented as silly, ridiculous and dis-
gusting the younger, as wise and beautiful.
In the present case the younger remonstrated. " Oh !
no," said she, "let us not do such a thing. What will
he think of us?"
But the other persevered, and called to him, "Ho!
come and take us into your canoe." The young man
obeyed, and approaching the shore, he took them with
him into the canoe.
" Who are you ?" asked the elder sister?
"I am Way-gee-mar-kin" replied he, "the great
Chief."
This Way-gee-mar-kin was something of a fairy, for
(8TT)
378 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH WEST.
when surrounded by his followers, and wishing to con-
fer favors on them, he had a habit of coughing slightly,
when there would fly forth from his mouth quantities
of silver brooches, ear-bobs and other ornaments, for
which it was the custom of his people to scramble,
each striving, as in more civilized life, to get more than
his share.
Accordingly, the elder sister said, " If you are Way-
gee-mar-kin, let us see your cough."
Shee-shee-banze had a few of these silver ornaments
which he had got by scrambling, and which he kept
stowed away in the sides of his mouth in case of emer-
gency. So he gave some spasmodic coughs and brought
forth a few, which the girl eagerly seized.
After a time, as they paddled along, a fine noble elk
came forth from the forest, and approached the water
to drink.
"What is that?" asked the spokeswoman ; for the
younger sister sat silent and modest all the time.
"It is my dog that I hunt with."
"Call him to us, that I may see him."
Shee-shee-banze called, but the elk turned and fled
into the woods.
" He does not seem to obey you, however."
" No, it is because you inspire him with disgust, and
therefore he flies from you."
Soon a bear- made his appearance by the water's
edge.
STORY OF SHEE-SHEE-BANZE. 379
"What is that?"
" One of my servants."
Again lie was requested to call him, and as the call
was disregarded, the same reason as before was assigned.
Their excursion was at length ended. There had
been a little magic in it, for although the young girls
had supposed themselves to be in a canoe, there was,
in reality, no canoe at all. They only imagined it to
have been so.
Now Shee-shee-banze lived with his grandmother,
and to her lodge he conducted his young friends.
They stood outside while he went in.
" Grandmother," said he, " I have brought you two
young girls, who will be your daughters-in-law. In-
vite them into your lodge."
Upon this, the old woman called, "Ho! come in,"
and they entered. They were made welcome and
treated to the best of everything.
In the meantime, the real Way-gee-mar-kin, the
great chief, made preparations for a grand feast. When
he was sending his messenger out with the invitations,
he said to him, "Be very particular to bid Shee-shee-
banze to the feast, for as he is the smallest and mean-
est person in the tribe, you must use double cere-
mony with him, or he will be apt to think himself
slighted."
Shee-shee-banze sat in his lodge with his new friends,
when the messenger arrived.
380 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
" Ho ! Shee-shee-banze," cried lie, " you are invited
to a great feast that Way-gee-mar-kin is to give to-
night, to all, his subjects."
But Shee-shee-banze took no notice of the invitation.
He only whistled, and pretended not to hear. The
messenger repeated his words, and finding that no
attention was paid to them, he went his way.
The young girls looked at each other, during this
scene, greatly astonished. At length the elder spoke.
" What does this mean ?" said she. " Why does he
call you Shee-shee-banze, and invite you to visit Way-
gee-mar-kin?"
"Oh!" said Shee-shee-banze, "it is one of my
followers that always likes to be a little impudent.
I am obliged to put up with it sometimes, but you
observed that I treated him with silent contempt."
The messenger returned to the chief, and reported
the manner in which the invitation had been re-
ceived.
" Oh !" said the good-natured chief, " it is because
he feels he is poor and insignificant. Go back again
call him by my name, and make a flourishing speech
to him."
The messenger fulfilled his mission as he was bid.
" Way -gee-mar-kin," said he, pompously, "a great
feast is to be given to-night, and I am sent most re-
spectfully to solicit the honor of your company !"
"Did I not tell you?" said Shee-shee-banze to the
STORY OF SHEE-SHEE-BANZE. 381
maidens. Then nodding with careless condescension,
he added, " Tell them I'll come."
At night, Shee-shee-banze dressed himself in his very
best paint, feathers and ornaments but before his de-
parture he took his grandmother aside.
"Be sure," said he', "that you watch these young
people closely until I come back. Shut up your lodge
tight, tight. Let no one come in or go out, and atiove
all things, do not go to sleep."
These orders given, he went his way.
The grandmother tried her best to keep awake, but
finding herself growing more and more sleepy, as the
night wore on, she took a strong cord and laced across
the mat which hung before the entrance to the lodge, as
the Indians lace up the mouths of their bags, and hav-
ing seen all things secure and the girls quiet in bed,
she laid down and soon fell into a comfortable
sleep.
The young girls, in the meanwhile, were dying with
cariosity to know what had become of Shee-shee-banze,
and as soon as they were sure the old lady was asleep,
they prepared to follow him, and see what was going on.
Fearing, however, that the grandmother might awake
and discover their absence, they took two logs of wood,
and putting them under the blanket, so disposed them
as to present the appearance of persons sleeping quietly.
They then cut the cords that fastened the door, and,
guided by the sounds of the -music, the dancing, and the
382 THE EARLY DAY IN THE NORTH-WEST.
merry-making, they soon found their way to the dwell-
ing of Way-gee-mar-kin.
When they entered, they saw the chief seated on a
throne, surrounded by light and splendor. Everything
was joy and amusement. Crowds of courtiers were in
the apartment, all dressed in the most brilliant array.
The strangers looked around for their friend Shee-shee-
banze, but he was nowhere to be seen.
Now and then the chief would cough, when a
shower of silver ornaments and precious things would
fly in all directions, and instantly, a scramble would
commence among the company, to gather them up and
appropriate them. As they thus rushed forward, the
brides elect saw their poor little friend crowded up into
a corner, where nobody took any notice of him, except
to push him aside, or step on him whenever he was in
the way. He uttered piteous little squeaks as one and
another would thus maltreat him, but he was too busy
taking care of himself to perceive that those whom he
had left snug at home in the lodge were witnesses of all
that was going on.
At length the signal was given for the company tc
retire, all but the two young damsels, upon whom
"Way-gee-mar-kin had set his eye, and to whom he had
sent, by one of his assistants, great offers to induce
them to remain with him and become his wives.
Poor Shee-shee-banze returned to his lodge, but what
was his consternation to find the door open !
STORY OF SHEE-SHEE-BANZE. 383
" Ho ! grandmother," cried lie " is this the way you
keep watch?"
The old woman started up. " There are my daugh-
ters-in-law," said she, pointing to the two logs of 'wood.
Shee-shee-banze threw himself on the ground between
them. His back was broken by coming so violently in
contact with them, but that he did not mind he thought
only of revenge, and the recovery of his sweethearts.
He waited but to get some powerful poison and pre-
pare it, and then he stole softly back to the wigwam
of Way-gee-mar-kin. All was silent, and he crept in
without making the slightest noise. There lay the
chief, with a young girl on each side of him.
They were all sound asleep, the chief lying on his
back, with his mouth 
