uNivERsmy
PENNSYIX^^NIA.
UBKARIES
>
I-
UJ
O
o
to
z
<
a:
UJ
O
z
<
>
>
CO
z
UJ
I
I-
>
m
tu
z
o
CO
>
<
CL
z
Cd
LU
I-
co
<
o
z
<
IJJ 5
I g
^- i
o i
LU u
z f
UJ J
o -
CO i
lPenn6^lv>ania:
THE GERMAN INFLUENCE
N ITS SETTLEMENT AND DEVELOPMENT
H •narrative an& Critical tistors
PREPARED BY AUTHORITY OF
THE PENNSYLVANIA-GERMAN SOCIETY
PART XXIII
THE WAYSIDE INNS ON THE LANCASTER ROADSIDE,
BETWEEN PHILADELPHIA AND LANCASTER,
PENNSYLVANIA
PUBLISHED BY THE SOCIETY
publication Committee.
JULIUS F. SACHSE,'.I,itt.D.
DANIEL W. NEAD, M.D.
I. S. B. BUCKENHAM, M.D.
on tbe
Xancaster IRoabeibe
betweeen
IPbilaDclpbia anO Xancaster
Part XXIII. of a Narrative and Critical History
PREPARED at THE REQUEST OF
THE Pennsylvania-German Society
BY
JULIUS FRIEDRICH SACHSE
LANCASTER, PA.
1912
Copyrighted 1912
BY THE
pcnn0tlfanta«*5crman Socletie.
Press or
The New era PRtNTiNs cowpaht
LANCASTER, PA.
THE WAYSIDE INNS ON THE
LANCASTER ROADSIDE.
N provincial or colonial days the
most important institution in
our commonwealth, next to the
church and school-house, was
the wayside inn. Scattered as
they were along the roadside
throughout the province they
were important beacons for the
weary traveller, as well as a
haven of rest and refreshment
for the sojourner, whether
farmer, drover, teamster or
traveller upon business or pleas-
ure bent. Many of these tav-
erns or inns became important
landmarks in both our social
and political history, growing in the course of years from
the lowly log tavern, to the stately stone turnpike inn of
later years, in which important social functions were held.
In many instances they were also polling places, and the
meeting place of Masonic Lodges and similar organiza-
tions. Some also were favorite places for mass meetings
S
6 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
and political rallies, where the candidates held forth, occa-
sions upon which the barrel of hard cider was ever in evi-
dence to slake the thirst of the prospective voter.
Many of these wayside inns in Pennsylvania became
known throughout the land for their good cheer, cleanli-
ness and hospitality. The hosts or landlords of these
houses of the better class were almost invariably Germans
or Pennsylvania-Germans, and the culinary department
was supervised by the wife of the innkeeper.
Everyone of these wives was a hausfrau in every sense
of the word. Upon her devolved not alone the culinary
department but the care and oversight of the whole estab-
lishment, except the bar, stable yard, and supervision of
the hostlers and reception of the guests, which fell to her
husband the landlord.
The meals at these inns, such as the Spread Eagle
and Warren presided over by the Pennsylvana-German
matron, as served were entirely different from the fare
set out in the houses kept by other nationalities, for
instance where in the other wayside inns, even of the
better sort, regular fare consisted of fried ham, cornbeef
and cabbage, mutton and beef stews and mush and
molasses, bread half rye and corn meal, with occasional
rump steak and cold meats, and tea. In these Pennsylva-
nia-German inns we had such dishes as Kalbskopf (mock
turtle) soup redolent with the odor of Madeira; Sauer
bratcn a favorite dish of the Fatherland; Sclimor brateu
(beef a la mode) ; Spanferkel (sucking pig stuffed and
roasted) ; Kalbsbraten (roast veal filled) ; Hammclsbratcn
(roast mutton) ; Kuttlefteck (soused tripe spiced) ; Hinkel
pie (chicken pot pie) ; Apfelklose (apple dumplings) ;
Bratzvurst (sausage) ; applecake, coffee cake with its coat-
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 7
ing of butter, sugar and cinnamon, and many other dishes
unknown to their English competitors.
To conduct one of these stands in turnpike days required
quite as much executive ability as is required to manage
one of the pretentious hostelries of the present day. The
proprietors in many cases were men of intelligence and
prominence in the community; even members of Congress
and State Representatives are to be found among their
number.
So closely were the lines drawn between the classes of
the stage tavern and the wagoner, that no stage tavern
would on any account permit a teamster to put up there
for the night, for if it became known that a wagoner had
stopped there it would be considered a lasting disgrace
and would result in the loss of the better class of patrons.
From the earliest days in our history there were sharply
defined lines in these wayside inns, as each class catered
for special custom. Thus those of the better class were
known as "stage stands," inns where the travelling public
by stage stopped for refreshment, meals, and sometimes
rest over night. Here also the relays were changed.
Next in the scale came the " wagon stands," taverns
patronized by wagoners or teamsters: here they "put up"
for the night, feeding their tired teams, and in many cases
sleeping upon a bag of hay upon the floor of the bar-room
or bam. Another class were the " drove stands," where
special accommodations were to be had by the drovers
for their cattle, which were here watered, fed or pastured,
until they were again upon the hoof towards their desti-
nation. Lastly, come the lowest class of the passing
wayside inns, the " tap house," where the lowest class of
the passing or resident public was catered to. These
houses harbored such as none of the other classes would
8
The Pennsylvania-German Society.
entertain. The chief income of these "tap houses" came
from the sale of bad spirits or whiskey. They were
invariably kept by Irishmen.
In olden times all distances between cities and places
were computed from inn to inn. Thus by referring to
any old provincial almanac, tables like this will be found.
Copy of an old Distance Table giving a List of Taverns on the old
Lanxaster Road or King's Highway, which was the Predecessor
OF the Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike.
Philadelphia to
Prs.*
Colters Ferry
Black Horse
Merion Meeting
Three Tuns
The Buck
The Plough
Radnor Meeting
Mills Tavern
The Ball
SigneofAdr'l Warren. . . .
White Horse
Downing Mill
The Ship
The Wagon
John Miller at the Tun. .
Pequa Bridge
Dougles's Mill
Widdow Caldwells "Hat'
John Vernon's
Conistoga Creek
Lancaster Court House. .
Another feature of these old inns of the days gone by
were their sign boards which swung and creaked in their
yoke, high upon a mast or pole set in the roadside. These
sign boards were all figurative and in some cases painted
by artists of note. The cause for the figurative feature
was twofold; first, they were more ornate and could be
better understood by the two different nationalites which
' Miles, quarters and perches.
O I
■ o
-» 3)
>
Z
o
>
7s
CO
o
z
H
I
m
O
O
>
z
o
>
en
H
I
m
"O
m
z
z
w
<
<
>
z
o
m
3)
>
z
CO
O
g
m
-I
<
i
fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 9
made up our population than signs lettered in either
German or English. Thus, take for instance, "The Blacic
Bear"; a representation of this animal was known at
once to either German or Irishman, while the words
" Black Bear" would have troubled the former, while the
latter certainly never would have recognized his stopping
place if the sign board bore the legend : " Der Schwartze
Bar." Secondly, but few of the teamsters or wagoners,
irrespective of race, could read; nearly all had their orders
to stop at certain houses, and they knew them by the sign
board when they came to them. Then again, in some
cases the name of the subject would be different in the
High or Palatinate German dialect; thus, twelve miles
from Philadelphia, there was a wagon stand upon whose
sign board was painted a sorrel horse, and among the
English-speaking teamsters the inn was known by that
name; referring to a High German distance-table, we
find it scheduled as "Braunes Pfed," the "Brown Horse."
To the Palatinate wagoner, however, it was known as
" Der Fuchs," " The Fox." This was not an isolated case,
the inn often receiving a nickname which eventually found
its way into the local distance tables.
Many of these signs were of a homely character, such
as The Hat, The Boot, The Wagon, The Eagle, The
Lion, The Cat, The Turk's Head, etc.
The drove stands usually had signs pertinent to their
class of patrons, such as The Bull's Head, The Lamb,
The Ram's Head, The Swan (black or white) , etc.
The tap houses were known by such names as "The
Jolly Irishman," "Fox Chase," "The Fiddler," "The
Cat," etc.
The better class of inns or stage stands were usually
named after popular heroes, such as "The King of Prus-
lO The Pennsylvania-German Society.
sia," "St. George and the Dragon," "General Washing-
ton," "General Paoli," "Spread Eagle," and the " Indian
Queen." The names were sometimes changed, owing to
political changes; thus, one of the most noted taverns on
the Lancaster roadside, the "Admiral Warren," after the
Revolution had the coat on the figure of the sign board
changed from red to blue, and henceforth it was "The
General Warren," in honor of the hero of Bunker Hill.
Similar cases are upon record where the head of " King
George," after the struggle for Independence, was, by
aid of the painter's brush, metamorphosed into " George
Washington."
The highest development of the wayside inn was
reached when the Lancaster turnpiice became the chief
highway and the model roadbed in the United States.
Pennsylvania merits unquestionably the praise of hav-
ing contracted the first stone turnpike in this country. It
led from Philadelphia to Lancaster, it was 62 miles long;
was commenced in 1792, and finished in 1794, at an
expense of $465,000, by a private company, and it
became the pattern for all subsequent hard roads in this
country.
Originally nine toll bars (" Schlagbaume ") were
erected between Philadelphia and Lancaster, at the fol-
lowing distances, beginning at two miles west of the Schuyl-
kill, viz., 2, 5, 10, 20, 29^, 40, 49>4, S^y^i Witmer's
Bridge.
The Lancaster turnpike replaced the old Conestoga or
King's road, which connected Philadelphia with Lancas-
ter, the chief inland city of Penn's colony.
The following is a copy of an old distance-table giving
a list of the taverns and landmarks on the old Lancaster
road or King's highway, which was the predecessor as it
were of the turnpike:
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike.
II
Philadelphia to
Colter's Feny
Black Horse
Merion Meeting
Three Tuns
The Buck
The Plough
Radnor Meeting
Mills Tavern
The Ball
Sign of Adml. Warren
White Horse
Downing Mill
The Ship
The Wagon
John Miller at the Tun
Pequa Bridge
Dougless Mill
Widow Colwell's "Hat"
John Vernon's
Conestoga Creek
Lancaster Court House
It was the purpose of this series of papers* to give
the historj' of some of these old public houses, land-
marks as they were, both legendary and documentary,
showing the developments from the earliest hostelr)', the
" Blue Ball," in Tredyfifrin Township, Chester County,
established half way bet^veen the Schuylkill river and
Brandywine creek, when yet the pack-horse reigned
supreme, to the multitude of public houses for the enter-
tainment of man and beast, often so close together on
the turnpike that several could be found within a mile.
How the roadside inns and taverns increased on the
new road benveen Philadelphia and Lancaster upon the
completion of the turnpike between these two points,
owing to the great increase of travel, is best seen by a com-
parison of the above list of the King's or "Old" road
with a list compiled by the writer and appended to this
paper, where it will be seen that the number of roadside
•1886.
12 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
inns between the two cities had increased from fourteen
on the old road to fifty and more on the turnpike.
In this list are given some of the names by which these
landmarks were known to the German teamsters, drovers
or travellers of that day.
The hard stone road, its white surface glistening in the
sunlight, with its ever changing scene of life and activity,
formed a picturesque and diversified panorama. In later
days we have the Troy coach, swinging upon its leather
springs, rolling along the hard road, drawn by four pranc-
ing horses; the Conestoga wagon with its broad tires;
the slow-plodding six-horse team with tinkling yoke bells ;
the large droves of cattle being driven from the green
pastures of Chester and Lancaster to the seaboard; the
accommodation stage-wagon in contrast to the mail coach,
and the farm wagon or "dearborn," with the farmer
going to or from the city market; and many other features
all contributed to this ever changing scene.
With the advent of the railroad with its iron horse the
scene changed until within a few years the various turn-
pikes virtually became deserted highways, giving up to
mere local travel — with road-bed neglected or abandoned
until in some cases they became dangerous to travel.
While the wayside inns, once so important a landmark,
gradually went out of existence, many of them struggling
for some time as country boarding houses, or degenerating
to the level of an ordinary country tavern, which in colon-
ial times were places of importance, and now merely live
in the traditions of the county, and vaguely in the memory
of a few of a former generation still amongst us, it was
to perpetuate such records and traditions that the writer
gathered such as were available relating to the various
hostelries as were, or had been on the Lancaster road and
PVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 13
turnpike within the bounds of Chester County. These
records, forming a series of papers, were published in the
"Village Record" of Chester County during the "8o's"
of the last century.
The two following papers, "The Spread Eagle" and
"The Warren" have been selected for republication in
the Proceedings of the Pennsylvania-German Society, as
these hostelries were strictly representative Pennsylvania-
German houses, kept by the Siter and Fahnestock families
respectively. These two houses, stage-stands of the first
order, where " entertainment was dispensed for man and
beast," had not only a local reputation for elegance, but
a national one as well, during the former turnpike days,
until supplanted by the state railroad from Philadelphia
to Columbia about the year 1836.
What is true of the old Lancaster turnpike applies also
to the roads leading out from Philadelphia to Bethlehem
and the northeast, and to the road to Baltimore and the
south; many of the hostelries on these roads were kept
by Pennsylvania-Germans, or men of German birth.
Of late years, long after the following stories were
written, a new factor appeared with the advent of the
twentieth century, namely the horseless carriage, which
has had an unexpected effect upon our old turnpikes, so
sadly neglected for many years, and in certain localities
abandoned as unfit for travel. The advent of this factor,
with power derived from gasoline, electricity or denatured
alcohol, brought about a demand for good roads. The
agitation for safe roads spread over the land, and resulted
in many delapidated and neglected turnpikes being again
surfaced and put in good condition for safe and speedy
travel; among these reconstructed roads there is none finer
than the Lancaster Turnpike from Philadelphia, through
14 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
what is known as the suburban district on the Pennsylva-
nia main line; and it is now again, as it was when first
built over a century ago, quoted as the model and speci-
men piece of road building, second to none in the state.
Whether this new condition of travel will eventually
bring about the rehabilitation of any of our old colonial
hosteiries in a manner suitable to the needs of the twentieth
century, or whether they will be supplanted by establish-
ments like those at Bryn Mawr or Devon, remains to
be seen.
In the meantime, these sketches of days gone by may
prove of interest to the autoists, both male and female, as
they gaily spin up or down the old highway, in a luxury
and speed undreamed of by the old wagoner, teamster or
stagers of a century ago.
>
I-
Ul
o
o
<0
<
a:
u
I
<
z
<
>
>
CO
z
z
tlJ
Q.
UJ
I
O J
Z =!
u
I-
O
I
z
o
UJ
I
H
LU S
- I-
UJ
♦jrN the old distance tables pub-
" lished prior to the building
of the Philadelphia and Lancaster
Turnpike the distances are given
from the court house formerly at
Second and Market streets. This
course was followed in the early
days of the turnpike. The mile-
stones on the turnpike, however,
commence from the Schuylkill
River. Consequently in the later
§ distance tables the locations of
the old landmarks appear to be
two miles less than on the older
tables, the two miles being the
distance from the court house to
the west bank of the Schuylkill.
The following list of inns on
the Lancaster turnpike is based on notes made by the
writer during the year 1 886-1 887, when most all of the
photographs were taken.
Many of these old landmarks have been changed since
that time; some remodeled for the use of wealthy subur-
ban residents; others, half in ruin, are occupied by foreign
15
l6 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
laborers; some have been demolished, and a few have
descended to the level of an ordinary country tavern.
In compiling this list every effort has been made to give
the proper location of the various old wayside inns between
Philadelphia and Lancaster.
Shortly after the turnpilce and the permanent, or
Market Street bridge, over the Schuylkill was completed,
the stage coaches started on their journey from the corner
of Eighth and Market streets.
The traveller after crossing the Market Street (perma-
nent) bridge over the Schuylkill at Philadelphia, on his
journey westward, first passed :
1. The Fish, on the west side of the Schuylkill, which
was kept by the Boone family.
2. The Lamb Tavern, built and kept by John Elliot.
The exact location of this old inn is not known.
3. The Rising Sun. This was in Blockley Township,
about two and a half miles west of the bridge.
4. The Columbus Tavern, built in 1798, by Col. Edward
Heston for his son Abraham. It stood on the turn-
pike in Blockley Township, just east of Meetinghouse
Lane, the present 5 2d Street.
5. The White Lamb. Opposite the fourth mile stone
near the present Wynnefield Avenue. This building
is still standing.
In this vicinity, in later years there were several
taverns of minor importance, which are not to be in-
cluded in our list of the Wayside Inns. They were
known as :
Hughes Tavern.
The Durham Ox.
ludwicks.
Sheep Drove Yard.
These have long since passed away, nor can the
., o
CO U)
UJ -I
Z
DC
UJ
>
<
o
LU
I
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 17
exact location be given with certainty at the present
day.
6. The Flag Tavern. This was the first inn on the
turnpike in Lower Merion Township, Montgomery
County. The College of St. Charles Borromeo now
covers part of the site. Near the fifth milestone.
7. The Black Horse Tavern. Also in lower Merion,
Montgomery County, about four miles west of the
river. It is said that the original Black Horse Inn
was built on the old Lancaster road by a progenitor
of the Wynne family. This is about one mile east
of the old Friends Merion Meeting-house just over
the city line.
8. The Three Tuns. In Lower Merion Township,
Montgomer)' County, about two miles above Merion
Meeting, seven miles from Philadelphia.
9. The Green Tree. In same township, about half a
mile west of the Three Tuns.
10. The Red Lion. Also in Ardmore. This inn w^as for
many years kept by the Litzenberg family. It is still
kept at the present day as a saloon and tavern. It is
about a quarter of a mile west of the seventh mile-
stone.
11. The Seven Stars. In the village of Athensville, now
Ardmore, also in Lower Merion, Montgomery
County. Kept for many years by the Kugler family.
It was upon the south side of the turnpike, near the
seventh milestone.
12. The Prince of Wales. In Haverford Township,
Delaware County. About half a mile west of
Ardmore.
13. The Buck Tavern. On the south side of the turn-
pike, between Haverford and Bryn Mawr, in Haver-
ford Township, Delaware County, %. mile west of
i8 The Pennsylvauia-German Society.
the eighth milestone, on the extreme verge of the
county. This inn was a stage stand of the first order,
and was renowned for its good cheer. It was kept
for many years by the Miller family, and was ap-
pointed a post-tavern at an early day. In 1832
Jonathan Miller, the tavern keeper, was the post-
master.
14. The Sorrel Horse. In Radnor Township, Delaware
County.
15. The Plough. Also in Radnor township. In later
years, after being remodeled, became the residence
of a Philadelphia capitalist. The location is about
eleven miles west of the Schuylkill.
16. The Unicorn. Also known as "Miles Tavern,"
after the family who kept it for many years. It was
also known as the "Irish" Tavern. The location
of this old hostelry was a short distance below the
fourteenth milestone on the turnpike, where both the
old road and turnpike cover the same ground.
[Note. These three taverns — the Sorrel Horse,
Plough, and Unicorn — all appear as landmarks on
the old Lancaster road. Also on the early distance
tables of the turnpike this would lead to the inference
that at least the Sorrel Horse and Plough were re-
opened on the pike.]
17. The Spread Eagle. Radnor Township, Delaware
County, on the border of Chester County, a few rods
above the fourteenth milestone on the turnpike.
This was a stage stand of the first order, and re-
nowned for its cleanliness and good cheer. It was
a post tavern and relay station. For many years this
inn was kept by the Siter family. The hamlet of
eight or ten dwellings and shops that grew up around
the old inn was known as Siterville. In 1832
>
—
o
o
05
z
<
Z
<
>
>
CO
z
z
u
I
h-
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 19
Edward Siter was the postmaster. During the
eighth decade of last century, the property was
bought by the Drexel and Childs operation at Wayne
and demolished.
18. The Lamb Tavern. The first inn on the turnpike in
Chester County. It stood a short distance east of
the fifteenth milestone, and was kept by the Lewis
family. Many of the reminiscences of this vicinity
were told the writer by George Lewis, then in his
ninetieth year.
19. The Stage Tavern. On the hillside a little west of
the fifteenth milestone. It was located upon what
was claimed to be the highest point west of Phila-
delphia. Here the town of Glassly was laid out
about the year 1800. The old inn was a wagon and
drove stand, and was kept by the Beaumont family.
20. The Spring House. In the hollow, just east of
Reeseville, now Berwyn. Kept for a time by a
branch of the Kugler family. It was between the
fifteenth and sixteenth milestones. In later years it
was known as Peggy Dane's. The site is now
covered by an artificial ice and cold storage plant.
21. The Drove Tavern. In Tedyffrin Township,
Chester County, opposite the sixteenth milestone. It
was kept by the Reese family, from which the settle-
ment took its original name " Reeseville," now the
flourishing town of Berwyn. The old signboard is
now in the Pennsylvania Historical Society.
22. The Blue Ball. Prissy Robinson's, on the turnpike
near the seventeenth milestone, now known as Dayles-
ford. For years this old inn was kept by the notori-
ous Prissy Robinson, who for years was a local char-
acter In this locality.
23. The Black Bear. For a time known as the Bull's
20 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
Head. This old inn stood on the south side of the
turnpike where the road from Newtown Square to
Howelville crosses the turnpike. It was a wagon
and drove stand during the turnpike days and was
torn dow-n in 1877. The barn stood on the south-
west comer of the road.
24. The General Jackson later The Franklin. On the
north side of the turnpike at the eighteenth milestone.
This old inn, still standing, was kept for years by a
branch of the Evans family. Prior to the Anti-
masonic craze (i 828-1 832), the inn was known as
a lodge stand, as a special room was set apart for
society meetings, among which was " Farmer's
Lodge, No. 183, Free and Accepted Masons," who
met there from 1822 until about 1830. This inn is
in Trydeffrin Township, Chester County.
25. The Paoli. Another of the celebrated stage stands
on the eastern end of the turnpike. It was in
Trydeffrin Township, Chester County, on the north
side of the turnpike, just west of the eighteenth mile-
stone. For many years it was kept by the Davis and
later by the Evans family. It was the polling place
for several townships, also the chief postoffice for
this district. Samuel Davis was the postmaster in
1 832. In later years the Paoli was used as a summer
boarding house, presided over by Joshua Evans and
Mrs. Davis. It was destroyed by fire some twenty
odd years ago.
26. The Green Tree. Near the nineteenth milestone in
Willistown Township, Chester County. This was a
wagon stand in the early days. Its last boniface was
Davis Gill, sheriff of the county. It was demolished
in 1877 when the Pennsylvania Railroad was
straightened.
H
I
m
>
O
F Z
* -
H
I
m
tj
m
z
z
<
<
>
z
m
:n
S
>
z
CO
o
o
m
H
<
JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 21
27. The Warren Tavern [Admiral Vernon, Admiral
Warren, General Warren]. In East Whiteland
Township, Chester County, on the north slope of the
South Valley Hill. It was near the twentieth mile-
stone, and the first inn on the turnpike in the Great
Chester Valley. It was one of the oldest inns west
of Philadelphia, being on the King's Road in Pro-
vincial days, twent}'-two miles west of the court house
in Philadelphia. After the Revolution it was kept
by a branch of the Fahnestock family from Ephrata,
during whose regime its reputation was second to
none in the state. In 1832 Charles Fahnestock was
the postmaster. They were also the first innkeepers
who refused to sell liquors on the Sabbath.
28. General Wayne. A wagon stand, near the twenty-
second milestone, at the north side of the turnpike.
On the inside of the barroom door the marks of the
teamsters' whips could be seen, where, in former
years, they tried their strength, and the cutting power
of their whip lashes. This building is now used as a
dwelling.
29. The Steamboat. On the north side of the turnpike,
half a mile east of the twenty-fourth milestone. It
is in West Whiteland Township, near the present
Glen Lock Station on the Pennsylvania Railroad.
At present writing the house is unoccupied and fallen
into decay.
30. The Sheaf of Wheat [Sheaf — Barley Sheaf]. A
wagon and drove stand near the twenty-sixth mile-
stone.
31. The Ship Tavern. Near the twenty-seventh mile-
stone in West Whiteland Township. Originally
west of Downingtown, at a point where the Old Lan-
22 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
caster road and the new turnpike occupied the same
ground. When the original ship was closed, the
old sign was taken to the new location, and there for
many years swung and creaked in its yoke by the
roadside.
32. The General Washington. In East Cain Township,
near the thirty-first milestone. Also known as Doivn-
ings or the Stage office and on the old distance tables
as Downing's Mill, thirty-three miles from the Phila-
delphia court house. This noted hostelry was at the
eastern end of the village of Downingtown, on the
north side of the turnpike at the junction of the Lion-
ville road. This inn was the halfway station be-
tween Philadelphia and Lancaster, and occupied the
same position on the successive roads between those
two points. " Downings " was a "stage" stand of
the first order. It is not known what eflUgy the
signboard bore during provincial days. After the
Revolution, however, it became known as the " Gen-
eral Washington," and the swinging sign portrayed
the general and a civilian standing side by side. In
early days this inn was also a postoffice. Isaac
Downing was the postmaster in 1832. The building
is now remodelled and used as a private residence
33. The Halfway House. A wagon stand on the south
side of the turnpike, a short distance west of " Down-
ings." The site of this old inn is now occupied by
several store buildings.
34. The Swan Tavern. Also in Downingtown. It is
on the south side of the turnpike, a short distance
west of the above two hostelries. The old Swan
has of late been remodeled and is now the chief
tavern and saloon in East Downingtown.
H
I
m
O
m
z
m
3)
>
>
CO
I
z
H
O
z
z
o
z
z
CO
<
r-
<
>
z
o
m
3J
>
z
CO
o
o
tn
-I
<
fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 23
35. Gallagherville Tavern. On the turnpike, near the
thirty-third milestone.
36. The Ship Tavern. The original Ship Tavern was on
the south side of the turnpike in West Whiteland
Township, Chester County, about one mile west of
Downingtown, near the thirty-second milestone, at a
point where the old Lancaster or Conestoga road and
the new turnpike occupied the same ground. When
the original tavern was closed, the old sign was taken
to the new location, near the twenty-seventh mile-
stone, where for many years it swung and creaked in
its yoke by the roadside, perforated as it was by the
bullet holes made by continental soldiers during the
Revolution. The original building is still standing,
being used as a summer residence. Thomas Parke
was the proprietor during Revolutionary times, and
later was acquired by the Edge family.
37. The Prussian Eagle. On the east bank of the West
Branch of the Brandywine, in Valley Township, now
the flourishing town of Coatesville. In i860 the inn
was kept by J. T. Minster, since which time it has
been enlarged and is now known as the " Speakman
House." It is west of the thirty-sixth milestone.
38. The Midway House. Formerly on the turnpike just
beyond the West Branch of the Brandywine. It was
just east of the thirty-seventh milestone. The inn
took its name from the fact that it was just half way
or midway between Philadelphia and Columbia, the
original termini of the old state railroad. In i860 it
was kept by A. Bear. Henry Conroy was also a
former innkeeper.
39. Hand's Pass. {The Cross Keys.) This old inn, a
wagon stand, was so named after its location. It
24 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
stood in what was in former days a wild and lonely
spot on the hill side, then covered with heavy timber.
It was near the thirty-eighth milestone. Tradition
tells us that it received its name from the fact that
General Hand had encamped there with a portion of
Washington's army. The old hostelry was sur-
rounded by a dense wood, and for some reason had
an uncanny reputation, so much so that many
teamsters avoided remaining there over night as much
as possible. There were also a number of ghostly
traditions current about this old inn during turnpike
days.
40. The Rainbow Tavern. Between the thiry-eighth
and thirty-ninth milestone. This was also a wagon
and drove stand.
41. The Barley Sheaf. Noted on the distance table in
Carey's Almanac for 1 803 as being eight miles west
of Downingtown. This would be near the thirty-
ninth milestone.
42. The Washington Tavern. West of the fortieth
milestone.
43. The States Arms (also United States Arms). This
inn was in Sadsbury Township, on the north side of
the turnpike, at the intersection with the road leading
from the Conestoga and Pequea country to Wilming-
ton. This inn, in the early years of the nineteenth
century, was the last tavern in Chester County, where
stages going west changed horses. The old inn was
also known as a "lodge" stand, as here at the be-
ginning of last century "Unity" Masonic Lodge,
No. 80, held its meetings. It was between the
fortieth and forty-first milestones.
m
JO ^
"33
-^ m
1? f"
I z
15
I- m
n m
CO -
-i -^
o z
z o
m '
■ ^^
h
CO IX)
o -"
o
l-
O
z
2
05
o
z
H
I
m
>
z
o
>
en
H
m
33
H
C
33
2
t;
m
H
I
m
T3
m
z
z
CO
<
r
<
>
z
o
m
33
>
z
CO
o
o
m
H
<
JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 25
44. Sadsbury Hotel. Also known as Kend'ig's, formerly
as Bacrs. Just east of the forty-first milestone, at
the intersection of the Wilmington Pike. This inn
was also one of the tavern postoffices. In 1832 John
Kendig was the postmaster. At the present day it
is used as a country tavern.
45. The Black Horse Tavern. Near the forty-second
milestone in West Sadsbury Township. This inn
was also used as a postoffice. In 1832 Samuel Jack-
son was the postmaster. House now owned by John
Wallace Boyd.
46. The General Wayne Tavern. At the forty-third
milestone. At the close of the war of 18 12 John
Petit was the owner of the Wayne with fifty acres of
land. Being beautifully situated a company was
formed to lay out a town in 18 14. Petit sold his
tavern and farm to Abraham & Company for
$16,000, whereon they laid out a town and called
it " Moscow." The turnpike became Cossack street
for the nonce, while parallel and cross streets were
given Russian names. The plot was gotten up in
fine style, but flourished only on paper. After the
bubble bursted the tavern property became the cele-
brated Moscow Academy, for many years presided
over by Rev. . Latta. The milestone in front
of this house is the first giving the distance both
ways, viz., 43 m. to P.; 19 m. to L.
47. The Cross Keys. A wagon stand near the forty-
fourth milestone from Philadelphia, the eighteenth
from Lancaster.
48. The Mount Vernon. In Sadsbury Township, Lan-
caster Count}', between the forty-fifth and forty-sixth
milestones, a short distance west of the Chester
26 The Pcnnsyhania-Germau Society.
County line. The inn is still kept as a licensed house,
and stands at the intersection of the road leading
from Christiana to Limeville.
49. Clemson Tavern. " The Continental." Formerly
west of the forty-seventh milestone. This was also
known as the " Gap Tavern." The house stood on
the north and the barn on the south side of the
tavern; and it was currently reported there was a
tunnel leading from one to the other. It was the
rendezvous of the notorious "Gap gang" broken up
by the conviction of Amos Clemson, who died in
prison, and others of its leaders.
50. The Rising Sun. Also known as " The Sign of the
Rising Sun" and "The Sign of the Rising of the
Sun." A tavern on the turnpike near the fort}--
eighth milestone at the crossing of the pike by the
Newport road. The locality is still known as the
Gap. The inn was a wagon stand for the teamster
and wagoner. In 1801 it was kept by John Young,
and for a time was the meeting place for a Masonic
Lodge.
51. Slaymaker's Tavern. A noted stage stand and post
house, on the north side of the turnpike between the
forty-eighth and forty-ninth milestone. It was kept
by a family from which it took its name. Amos
Slaymaker was a member of the firm of Reeside &
Slaymaker, who operated a line of stages on the turn-
pike before the time of railroads. In 1832 Wm. D.
Slaymaker was the local postmaster.
52. Kinzer's Tavern. Between the forty-ninth and fiftieth
milestone.
53. Williamstown. Between the fifty-first and fifty-
second (tenth and eleventh) milestone, now known
as The Vintage and is an ordinary country tavern.
*
JFaystde Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 27
54. The Plow and Anchor. At Leaman Place between
the titty-second and titty-third milestone (ninth and
tenth) . This Tavern was kept for many years by
John Reynolds, an ancestor of General John F.
Reynolds. The old inn is now the residence of Miss
Mary Leaman, who still treasures the signboard of
the old inn.
55. Paradise Tavern. Near the fifty-third (ninth) mile-
stone.
56. Soudersburg Tavern.
57. Geiger's Tavern.
58. The Running Pump. Near the tifty-tifth (seventh)
milestone, on what is now known as the Buckwalter
farm.
59. Greenland Tavern. West of Mill Creek, between
the iifty-eighth and fifty-ninth (third and fourth)
milestone.
60. Tavern. (Bridgeport.) East end of Wit-
mer's Bridge over Conestoga River.
61. " Conestoga Inn " Tavern. West bank of Conestoga
River at Witmer's Bridge.
62. The Sw^an at Lancaster. Kept by Col. Matthias
Slough from 176 1 to 1806. This noted tavern was
built in 1754. This inn was a stage stand of the
first order, and was the scene of many important
gatherings, social, political and Masonic. The regu-
lar meetings of Lodge No. 43, F. & A. M., being
held at the Swan Tavern from June, 1788, until
June, 1792.
OLD INNS ON THE LANCASTER ROAD SIDE.
THE SPREAD EAGLE TAVERN NEAR THE 14TH MILESTONE
IT
N the extreme northwestern
part of Radnor township, in
Delaware county, on the Lan-
caster Turnpike, fourteen miles
west of Philadelphia, formerly
stood at the base, as it were, of
the South Valley Hill, a large
three-story stone building with
porch and piazza extending
along the entire front.
By the date stone, high up in
the gable the wayfarer could
still plainly see the year when the house was completed,
the legend read " 1796." This building, one of those
monuments by which we may be able to trace the past,
was formerly the justly celebrated " Spread Eagle
Tavern," known far and wide to travellers from both
continents; built, as the stone informs us, in the year fol-
lowing the one in which was completed the first link of
28
I
m
CO
■D
>
a
m
>
i f
I
■D
m
z
z
CO
<
r-
<
>
z
>
I
o
m
XI
S
>
z
CO
O
O
m
H
<
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 29
what was to be the first great National highway to the
West, and at the date of the building of the Inn connected
Philadelphia, then the Capitol City of the United States,
with Lancaster, the second important town of the Com-
monwealth, and it may here not be amiss to say that to
Pennsylvania's private citizens who subscribed almost half
a million dollars to complete this great work of internal
improvement, belongs unquestionably the praise of having
constructed the first stone turnpike in the Union.
The turnpike at this point for a short distance occupies
the bed of the old Provincial or King road. The present
building supplanted a small rude stone house, which was
kept as a house of entertainment by one Adam Ramsower
as early as 1769. The following year he petitioned to
have his license renewed. In his petition to the Court
August 28, 1770, he says: "Your Honors hath been
pleased for these several years past to grant me your
recommendation to the Governor for a license to keep a
public house of entertainment," 8cc. Anthony Wayne
appears as one of the subscribers to this petition.
The following year Ramsower advertised the place for
sale as shown by the following advertisement in a Phila-
delphia newspaper: —
"To BE Sold
on Thursday the 26th of December instant A Valuable
messuage, plantation and tract of land, situate in Radnor
Township, Chester County adjoining the Lancaster road,
Containing near 100 Acres of good land, about 16 miles
from Philadelphia, about 70 acres are cleared and the re-
mainder exceedingly well timbered about 14 acres of very
good watered meadow, and an excelent Orchard that bears
plentifully every year; the dwelling house is a large well
30 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
finished stone building, and a well accustomed tavern,
known by the name of the " Spread Eagle " and is well ac-
commodated with a barn, stables, sheds, gardens &c a
pump of good water near the door, with trough to water
creatures. Any person inclining to purchase may come
and view the premises before the day of Sale, at which
time the Conditions of Sale will be made known by
"Adam Ramsower."
{Pennsylvania Gazette, Dec. 19, 177 1.)
The next official knowledge we have of the tavern is
the following curious petition, together with the quaint
"certificate of character" which accompanied it when
handed into Court.
"To the Worshipful Justices of Court of General
Quarter Sessions of the Peace, held and Kept at Chester
the 25th day of August, 1772:
" The petition of Jacob Hinkel of Said County, Humbly
Sheweth :
"That your petitioner hath lately purchased the mes-
suage and plantation where Adam Ramsower lately dwelt,
situated in Radnor township, in said county, at which place
a house of public entertainment hath been kept for a num-
ber of years past, known by the name of 'Spread Eagle;'
your petitioner therefore prays that your honors will be
pleased to grant him a recommend to his honor, the
Governor, for a license to keep a public house of entertain-
ment at the place aforesaid and your petition shall pray.
Jacob Hinkel."
"Lancaster county ss.
" Whereas, Jacob Hinkel, tanner, the bearer hereof, who
hath resided within the County for the term of 12 years,
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 31
is now moving to Chester county with the intention to
keep a house of public entertainment on the road leading
from Philadelphia to Lancaster at the noted tavern of
the ' Spread Eagle ' and whereas, the said Jacob Hinkel
did petition to us subscribing magistrates and other in-
habitants of Lancaster county for a testimony of his char-
acter whilst he lived in the said county, and also for a
recommendation to the magistrates of said county of
Chester.
"This is therefore to certify that the said Jacob Hinkel
whilst he lived in said county acted the parts of a true and
honest member of the civil government, and as such by
virtue of our underwritten names, we do heartily recom-
mend him to the worshipful, the Judges of the Peace of
the County of Chester, etc, etc.
Edward Shippen,
Emanuel Carpenter,
James Clemson,
and ten others,
Lancaster, the fourth day of August, 1772."
At the commencement of the Revolutionary period the
house was known as the gathering place of the patriots of
the vicinity, while " Miles " old tavern, a short distance
below, which had been rechristened " The Unicorn " and
was then kept by a loyal Irishman, was patronized by the
citizens who were either Tory or Loyalists.
During the alternate occupation of this territory by the
opposing forces 1777-8, the house became somewhat of a
land mark, sev'eral reports and letters in reference to the
military' situation being dated at, or mentioning the
" Spread Eagle" tavern. During the encampment of the
American army at Valley Forge the inn for a time was used
32 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
as an outpost, when the large chestnut tree on the West
side of the Valley road, about fifty feet North of the
present turnpike, was utilized as a signal station, or out-
look for that picket; this tree still standing may easily be
recognized on the road leading to the present railroad
station ; it also marks the boundary line between Delaware
and Chester counties.
The inn continued in the possession of Jacob and Daniel
Hinkel until 1778 and possibly until 178 1, although no
records are known to exist, stating who kept the house
between those years. We know that one Alexander Clay
was in charge, from 1787 until 1791, when Adam Siter
appears, and he was followed by John Siter, during whose
time the new house was built.
As soon as the turnpike was finished it at once became
the main artery of travel between the East and West. As
the line of the new road at some points deviated a con-
siderable distance from the old provincial road many of the
colonial inns which had been landmarks for a century
became useless on account of their distance from the new
turnpike, others which were still accessible did not come
up to the needs or demands of the increased travel brought
forth by the new state of affairs.
Of the numerous inns which were at once projected
and built along the line of the new thoroughfare, the
" Spread Eagle " Tavern was one of the largest as well as
the most pretentious public houses between Philadelphia
and Lancaster.
The first sign board of the tavern was supported by two
tall masts planted on the south side of the road; and is
said to have been painted by one of America's most dis-
tinguished artists. It was a representation of the out-
spread American eagle as depicted on the silver dollar of
fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 33
that date with the shield of the Union on its breast, the
wings extended, and grasping in one talon the arrows of
war, while in the other the olive branch of peace; a blue
scroll in his beak with the emblazoned legend " E Pluribus
Unum " and thirteen stars for an event completed the
gorgeous sign of the new candidate for the patronage of
the traveling public.
Shortly after Martin Slough's successful attempt in
1795 to run a four-horse stage between Philadelphia and
Lancaster, stage coach lines continued to increase on the
new road, and the Spread Eagle at once sprang into popu-
larity with the traveling public, as well as with the
"wagoners" and "teamers"; for at that early day the
furnishings and cuisine of the hostelr}' were probably un-
surpassed in the State. It is said that during the summer
and fall of 1798 when the Capitol city was again visited
by the yellow fever scourge, our inn was crowded with
members of the Government, as well as attaches of the
accredited representatives of the foreign powers in Phila-
delphia.
It was not long before quite a hamlet grew up in the
vicinit}' of the busy inn, besides the usual blacksmith and
wheelwright shops, livery stable, bams and other out-
buildings attendant to an inn of the first rank. There was
a flourishing saddlery as well as a village cobbler and
tailor. The large "Eagle" store on the opposite side of
the turnpike still does a flourishing trade to this day. A
post-oflice was located here at an early day and the hamlet
became known to the world and on the maps and gazetteers
of the day as " Sitersville."
The inn on account of its distance from the city became
the stopping place of both mail, post and accommodation
3t
34 The Petinsyhama-German Society.
stages for meals and relays, it being the first station west
and the last relay station eastward.
It also was the usual breakfast station for the stages
leaving Philadelphia at four and five o'clock in the morn-
ing. In 1 807 the price charged stage passengers was 3 1 34
cents per meal while others were only charged 25 cents.
The reason given for this discrimination was, that being
obliged to prepare victuals for a certain number of pas-
sengers by the stage, whether they came or not, it fre-
quently caused a considerable loss of time, and often a
waste of victuals, whereas in the other case they knew to a
certainty what they would have to prepare.
The expense of traveling by the stages from Philadel-
phia to Pittsburg at this period was $20 and I2)4 cents
for every pound of luggage beyond fourteen. The
charges, by the way, for meals and lodging were about $7.
The whole distance was 297 miles, and was performed in
six days.
The expense by wagon was $5 per cwt. for both persons
and property, and the charges by the way amounted to
about $12. It would take twenty days or more to per-
form the journey by wagon.
The favorite liquid refreshments dispensed over the bar
and drank by the hardy " wagoners " and travelers in these
early times besides whisky, brandy, rum and porter, were
such as "cyder" plain, royal or wine; "apple" and
"peach" brandy; "cherry bounce," &c. Among the
better class of stage travelers a good bowl of "punch"
was always in order and never out of order.
It is not known just how long John Siter remained in
charge. He was succeeded by Edward Siter, who for two
years retired from the old inn, as is shown by following
advertisement.
9 ?
CO
TJ
33
m
>
o
m
>
;:! >
s ;^
m m
3)
z
z
o
I
m
T)
m
z
z
<
r-
<
>
Z
o
m
3]
S
>
z
CO
O
o
m
H
<
IVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 35
" Edward Siter
Late of the Spread Eagle on the Philadelphia and Lan-
caster Turnpike road, takes the liberty of informing his
friends and the public in general that he has taken that
large store on South East comer of Market and Eighth
Sts Number 226 in Philadelphia where he is now opening
a good assortment of groceries, wholesale and retail on the
most reasonable terms, where country produce will be
bought or stored and sold on commission with punctuality.
He believes himself from his former conduct in business
to obtain a share of publick patronage."
{Federalist, Dec. 9, 1812.)
Edward Siter was succeeded by James Watson for two
years. But the venture of neither proving successful we
find Edward Siter again in charge of the inn until the year
1817.
The following five years — 18 17 to 1823 — David Wil-
son, jr., was the host. Zenas Wells kept the inn 1823,
1824 and 1825.
For a short time during the first quarter of the century,
most probably while the house was in charge of Wilson
or Wells, a change was made on the old signboard,
another neck and head being added by a local artist, thus
changing our glorious bird of freedom into one of those
nondescript birds with two heads as used in ancient
heraldry; this change is still fresh in the memory of several
octogenarians who yet live in the vicinity. It is further
said that this change was caused by some political excite-
ment rife at that time. The new signboard, however,
caused much merriment among the neighbors and wagon-
ers, who could not see the utility of the change, and by
them the house was nicknamed the " Split Crow," and in
an article written about 65 years ago by Mr. George W.
3^ The Pennsylvama-German Society.
Lewis (still living) the house is referred to by that name.
After Edward W. Siter came in possession, in 1825, the
signboard was again Americanized, and after being re-
painted remained until it was finally effaced by the action
of the elements about the time the usefulness of the house
as an inn had passed away.
Among the curious customs pevalent at this time, was
for the smiths to burn their own charcoal, and it was not an
uncommon sight for the traveler to see a charcoal kiln on
fire back of the shops.
The continuing increase of travel and patronage soon
necessitated the erection of more taverns; it is said they
eventually averaged about one to the mile between the
Eagle and Downingtown. The first of these new turn-
pike inns stood about three quarters of a mile west of the
Eagle, on the eastern end of what was then known as the
*' Glassley Commons." The inn was known as the
*'Lamb"; it was established by John Lewis about 18 12
or 13, who remained there for two years, when he was
succeeded by the " dingers," father and son, who re-
mained in charge until the necessity for a public house
there had passed away.
A few hundred rods east of the Eagle where the old
road intersects the turnpike stood an old provincial inn,
"The Unicorn." This house was built in 1747 by one
James Miles. A license was granted to him in the follow-
ing year. This inn was known on the early distance
tables as " Miles Tavern," being 16 miles, i qr., 26 perches
from the Court House in Philadelphia on the road to
Lancaster, and is noted on the quaint pamphlet published
by Wm. Bradford in Philadelphia in 1751. This build-
ing is no doubt still recollected by the residents of the town-
ship; also its destruction by fire on St. Valentine night,
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 21
Februar}', 1872, attended unfortunately by the loss of a
life, an old man being burned to death in the attempt to
save some of his effects.
These two taverns just mentioned took most of the over-
flow which could not be accommodated at the Spread
Eagle, still it is yet within the recollection of many persons
when the yards of all three inns were filled to their utmost
capacity with wagons, stages and teams, while the bar-
rooms within resounded with the roystering song or ribald
jests of the hardy wagoner.
The travel on the turnpike reached its height probably
during the latter part of the '20's, just previous to the
building of the Philadelphia & Columbia Railroad by the
Canal Commissioners of the State. During this era all
was life and bustle about the Inn; there was hardly a
moment during the twenty-four hours of the day that there
was not some travel past the Inn. It was a frequent sight
to see long lines of Conestoga wagons going towards the
city loaded with the products of the West or going in the
opposite direction freighted with the productions of East-
ern mills or foreign merchandise; these wagons were
usually drawn by five stout horses, each horse having on
its collar a set of bells consisting of different tones, which
made very singular music as the team trudged along at the
rate of about four miles an hour. Emigrants could also
frequently be seen on their way, generally in companies
for mutual assistance, going with their families and worldly
possessions towards the new West — there to settle and
found homes for their posterity. Large herds and flocks
also furnished their quota to this ever moving living
panorama.
Within the tavern all would be life and animation, on
warm, fair nights the porch as well as the piazza above
38 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
was illuminated by large reflecting lamps, when on such
occasions congregated the ladies and gentlemen who were
stopping there either permanently or merely temporarily to
while away the time and watch the life and bustle on the
road in front of the Inn, as well as in the yard beyond; the
shouts and activity of the hostlers and stablemen at the
arrival or departure of the mail or post coach, the rapidity
with which the horses were unhitched, or replaced by fresh
relays after the passengers had refreshed themselves, the
number of travelers on horseback, or private conveyance,
the occasional toot of a stage horn or ringing of the
hostler's bell, all tended to form a continuous change of
scene. In 1823 there were no less than eleven principal
lines of "Land Stages," daily running on the turnpike to
and from Philadelphia past the Eagle. These were
known as the "Berwick," " Downingtown," "Harrisburg
Coachee," "Harrisburg Stage," "Lancaster Accommoda-
tion," "Lancaster Coachee," "Lancaster and Pittsburg
Mail," " Mifflin, Lewistown, via Harrisburg," " Philadel-
phia and Pittsburg via York," " Pittsburg via Harris-
burg," "Philadelphia and West Chester" besides numer-
our lines of accommodation stages. The fare for way
passengers was usually six cents per mile; through fare
from Philadelphia to Pittsburg was $18.50 each way,
meals and lodging extra.
The "Coachee" was a carriage peculiar to America,
the body was rather longer than that of a coach, but of the
same shape. In the front it was left open down to the
bottom, and the driver sat on a bench under the roof of the
carriage. There were two seats in it for passengers, who
sat with their faces towards the horses. The roof was
supported by posts placed at the comers, on each side of
the doors, above the panels; it v/as open and to guard
-I
I
m
■0
m
z
z
CO
<
r-
<
>
Z
>
>
z
CO
o
o
m
H
<
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 39
against bad weather; there were curtains made to let down
from the roof and fasten to buttons placed for the purpose
on the outside. There was also a leathern curtain to hang
occasionally between the driver and the passengers. The
Coachee had doors at the side, since the panels and body
were generally finely finished and varnished.
As an instance of the importance of the Spread Eagle as
a post town, a comparison of the receipts of the United
States post office for the year ending March 31, 1827,
shows there was a larger amount of postage collection
there than at any other tavern post office on the turnpilce
east of Downingtown, viz.: $60.25. During the same
period the collections at the Paoli were but $6.54.
In the year 1825, Edward W. Siter became the land-
lord of the Spread Eagle and remained until 1836, when
Stephen Home appears as the lessee, who had for some
time been connected with the house.
On the evening of September 15th, 1834, an incident
occurred which probably caused more excitement and sen-
sation in the immediate vicinity of Siterville than had ever
been known on any previous occasion within the memory
of the oldest inhabitant. This was caused by the descent
of Mr. James Mills' balloon, which had started on an
aerial voyage from Philadelphia at half-past four o'clock
in the afternoon. The following is the bold aeronaut's
own description of what took place :
"Warned by the increasing obscurity of the world below
I began to descend and at six o'clock and twenty minutes
reached the earth in a fine green field, near the Spread
Eagle, on the Lancaster Turnpike, 16 miles from Phila-
delphia. As I descended very slowly, two young gentle-
men and Dr. M , of Philadelphia, came to my assist-
ance, and laying hold of the car in which I remained towed
40 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
me about a quarter of a mile to the tavern, where I
alighted, balloon and passenger, safe and sound. Before
discharging the gas, several ladies got successively into the
car and were let up as far as the anchor rope would permit.
The gas was let out and the balloon folded. In doing this
a cricket was unfortunately included, and having to cut his
way out he made the only break in the balloon which oc-
curred on this expedition. Mr. Home, of the Spread
Eagle, treated me with great kindness, and Dr. M
politely offered me a conveyance to the city, which I
reached at one o'clock this morning."
After the completion of the railroad which was located
at this point, about half a mile to the north of the turnpike,
and the successful attempt at steam transportation, the
decline of the Inn was rapid, the glory of the once noted
hostelry waned year after year, and it soon became merely
a cross road country tavern with no patronage except what
the laboring population in the vicinity supplied.
The only exception to this desolation was during the
winter when the sleighing was good then for a time the
old tavern would for a short period be galvanized into a
new life as it were. Open house would be held all night;
four to six musicians were in attendance, and as sleigh load
after sleigh load of young people would arrive to refresh
themselves and enjoy a dance or two, some of the old
scenes of life and activity approximating the former glories
of the tavern were reproduced. To such as participated
in any of these parties the cheerful rubicund face of the
host will no doubt be recalled, whether it was Ned Siter,
Steve Horn, or Benny Kirk. However even these sleigh-
ing parties are now things of the past, and almost unknown
to the present generation in the vicinity.
After changing ownership many times the Inn finally
IVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 41
came into possession of George W. Childs, of Phila-
delphia, who bought the property so as to prevent anyone
obtaining a license for the sale of liquor so near his venture
at Wayne station, a short distance below on the turnpike.
In the following Summer the use of the building was
given by its benevolent owner to the Managers of the
Lincoln Institution of Philadelphia as a Summer home for
the large number of Indian girls who were being trained
and educated by that Institution. Fears had been enter-
tained by the Managers and patrons of the Institution that
a hot Summer in the city might prove disastrous to the
Indian children, so it was determined to try the experiment
of sending the girls to the country for half the year pro-
vided such removal would in no way interfere with their
training or studies. Therefore the Managers of the
school concluded to accept the kind and opportune offer of
Mr. Childs allowing them the use of the old Inn and sur-
rounding grounds free of charge. It, however, cost the
Institution over a thousand dollars to make the former
hostelry habitable and suitable for their purpose. It was
not long before almost a hundred girls were so established
in their new temporary home and the experiment from the
very start proved itself a complete success.
The old Spread Eagle once more became a point of
attraction, not only with the residents or sojourners in the
vicinity, but also for the curious and sympathetic, some
from a remote distance. Public religious services were
held every Sunday at Wayne Hall; these services were
always largely attended, on which occasion the choir, music
and the responses, according to the ritual of the Protestant
Episcopal Church, were entirely rendered by the Indian
girls, who seemed to thoroughly comprehend the meaning
of the services.
42 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
It was a beautiful, yet strange spectacle to see these
dusky maidens, descendants of the aborigines, going tvvo by
two, from their services, as they trudged along the smooth
white turnpike, sober and demure with their prayer book
and hymnal in their hands; w'here but a little over two
centuries ago their people had roamed and hunted free
and undisturbed by anything approaching civilization, as
monarchs of these glorious hills and valleys. Now no
vestige of this former race remains but an occasional arrow
dart ploughed up by the husbandman as he tills the soil.
During these two summers several traveling Indian bands
that visited Philadelphia also visited the school at the old
Inn, and it is said that the impressions made upon their
minds, and the reports they made when they returned home
were of the greatest use to the school. Probably the most
noteworthy and interesting of the visits was the one when
the celebrated " Sitting Bull" accompanied by his band, all
resplendent in scarlet blankets, leggings and feathers, with
faces and hands daubed and streaked with vermilion and
chrome yellow, came and spent a few hours at the old inn;
quite a feast was prepared for them by the Indian girls
which they seemed to enjoy, still not a muscle moved in
their stolid countenances which could be construed as either
showing approbation or displeasure.
One of the most interesting events during the sojourn of
the Indian girls at the old tavern was the entertainment
given on the evening of September 24, 1884, at Wayne
Hall. It consisted of a series of twenty-two tableaux illus-
trative of Longfellow's beautiful poem of Hiawatha.
The Rev. Joseph L. Miller, chaplain of the institution,
read those portions of the poem descriptive of the scenes as
presented by the dusky children. There were 10 char-
acters represented in the tableaux. All the scenes passed
5 >
O
n
D
Z
2
cn
O
z
H
I
m
O
>
05
H
m
3J
H
C
3)
Z
:^
m
H
I
m
T)
m
z
z
w
<
<
>
z
>
I
o
m
3J
>
z
CO
o
o
m
H
<
fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 43
off successfully, and were well applauded by the large audi-
ence present. Among the most vivid pictures were " The
Indian's Home," Hiawatha's "infancy" with an Indian
Lullaby, and "Hunting," "The Ambush," "Hunters'
Return " and " Lover's Advent." The " Wedding Feast."
with Its songs and dances were the crowning features of the
evening. In this scene the stage was filled with the girls
and boys of the institution all in striking costumes brilliant
in color and beads, feathers, tassels, fringes and other
tnnkets. A wedding song was sung, then came the dance,
after which a chorus of over thirty Indians sang a hymn in
the Dakota language.
The old tavern was used by the Lincoln Institution dur-
ing the years 1884-5, when after several vain attempts on
part of the managers to buy the property from Mr. Childs,
they vacated the old Inn and purchased ten acres of wood-
land on the northern slope of the south Valley hill, about
1 1/2 miles northeast of the old inn, where they erected three
large buildings as a permanent summer school; this is now
known as " Po-ne-mah."
The suburban village and improvements which have
sprung up on all sides of the old hostelr>^ with the at-
tendant pleasure travel, on the turnpike now again put in
first class condition by the Lancaster Avenue Impovement
Company, so far have had little effect on old " Siterville."
At the present writing (1886) the old inn though in good
repair is closed and without an occupant, and looms up on
the roadside like a dark and sombre relic of the past, with
nothing to remind the present generation of its departed
glories.
THE WARREN TAVERN NEAR THE 20TH
MILE STONE.
HE traveller of the present day
on the Lancaster turnpike,
after leaving the " Green
Tree," or Duffryn Mawr,
crosses under the railroad
where the old deserted stone
road now running, north to
the rival highway with its
quadruple tracks, which so
completely supplanted it, here
commences his descent into
the Great Chester Valley, winding around the hillside.
After passing the Green Tree store, so long presided
over by the Bakers and Philips, and the new hall of
Thomson Lodge, No. 340, F. & A. M., the twentieth
mile stone -with the attendant toll-booth, is soon reached.
At this point the pike enters a gorge in the chain of
the South Valley hills, and at the foot, after crossing
the long stone bridge over the rivulet which pours down
the hillside through the ravine which here intersects the
44
cr >
I z
>
33
33
m
z
>
<
m
z
o
m
>
33
to
O
I? S
Z O CO
> H
< I
H
I
m
T3
m
z
z
CO
<
<
>
z
m
33
>
z
CO
O
o
m
-I
<
PFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 45
other, there may be seen in the small valley thus formed
a commodious house, of ample dimensions, two stories in
height, capped by a sharp gable, pierced with three dormer
windows, the enclosure within the bounds of the snow-
white picket fence (1888) dotted with numerous outbuild-
ings— the evergreens of stately growth, all tend to attract
the attention of the traveller of the present day, and give
the stranger an impression that the structure is one of more
than ordinary' importance, and a well-preserved relic of a
former period — perhaps dating back to the Colonial
period, and that it was the home of some brave, sturdy
soldier of the Revolution, who wore the blue and buft, and
on many a field performed deeds of valor and prowess
while opposing the hireling invader.
In the first surmise the stranger would be correct. The
house in question, and the more primitive structure which
it replaced, was for over a century one of the best known
landmarks on the Lancaster roadside. When first opened
as a public house in the fourth decade of the last century,
the sign-board as it swung and creaked in the wind bore
the image and name of Admiral Vernon. This was, how-
ever, soon changed to the Admiral Warren. After the
Revolution, in turnpike days, it w-as known to all travellers
as the "Warren," the British Admiral giving place on the
sign-board to the patriot general, who died for his country
on Bunker Hill. After the turnpike was completed toward
the close of last centur)', it w'as not long before the house
became a tavern stand or stage house of the first class,
being equaled in reputation and patronage only by the
"Eagle," " Paoli " and "Downings"; the reputation of
the " Good-cheer" and the cleanliness of the bedding made
it one of the most desirable stopping places on the thor-
oughfare. Among the guests who patronized the inn, and
46 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
who found shelter under the hospitable rooftree, drank
the wines, and enjoyed the products of the larder, were to
be numbered presidents, judges, foreign potentates, and
the most distinguished travelers from this and foreign
climes.
The scenes of life and activity then to be seen daily In
the "tavern yard" in front of the hostelry were not sur-
passed at any other point on the road; the arrival and
departure of the stagecoaches, the genial host " Funny-
stock " always present to greet the new arrivals, or to wish
the departing ones bon voyage; the bustling hostlers and
stablemen, together with the shouts of the drovers, busy
in the large cattle pens, stables and shelters, then on the
opposite side of the turnpike, the passing teamsters, with
strings of tinkling bells on the horse yokes, all tended to
make up the ever-recurring scenes of excitement at this
renowned halting place on the Lancaster roadside.
When, however, in the course of time the stone age of
travel, as the turnpike days may well be called, was super-
seded by that of iron and steam, the Warren, in com-
mon with its chief competitor the "Spread-Eagle," was
left stranded far from the new road, and soon the inn from
being one of the most busy spots between Philadelphia and
Lancaster rapidly fell into decay, and after the withdrawal
of the stagecoaches dropped to the level of an ordinary
cross-road country tavern, and at the present day all that
is left to remind the present generation of even the exist-
ence of such a noted landmark is the name of the local
postoffice, viz. : " Warren Tavern," and even this is in
danger of being before long a thing of the past, as lately
there has been started a movement looking to a change of
name, as was the case with the " Spread-Eagle " by some
supercilious newcomers, on whose sensitive ears the word
5 o
ii
01 H
;:! °
o ^^
S -I
2 I
n m
31 - X m
>
Z
Z
CO
O
z
H
I
m
>
z
o
>
en
H
m
X
01 CO
- I -n
m >
m >
-t
X
m
TJ
m
z
z
<
<
>
z
m
30
>
Z
0>
O
o
m
H
<
JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 47
"Tavern" seems to grate harshly, and who ha\-e no idea
of the derivation of the name, and who if they achieve
their object may perhaps succeed in replacing the name of
the revolutionar)' hero with that of one of his British of
Hessian opponents, a proceeding which would be entirely
in keeping with the course pursued by the Anglo-maniacs
who have lately cropped out among us.
How in 1733 the great road from Lancaster was laid
out to a point in Chester County, near the " Sign of the
White Horse," and the action taken by the residents of
Tredyffrin, Easttown and Willistown and adjoining town-
ships to have the road completed to the Schuylkill has been
set forth in the preceding articles. It was not until No-
vember 6, 1 74 1, when the final return of the commissioners
giving the route to the Schuylkill was presented to Lieut.
Governor George Thomas and Council. By this report
we find that the new road was laid out east^vard from the
" Sign of the White Horse " along the old road " until near
Robert Powell's House, then leaving the old road, and on
George Aston's land south 72 degrees, east 200 perches to
a run, thence 80 perches, whence it again meets the old
road, then on it south 33^ degrees, east 21 perches, then
in Willistown south 33^ degrees, 20 perches, &c., &c."
By the above survey it will be seen that at the time there
was no house on the site of the Warren, or mention would
certainly have been made of it. It is safe to assume that
George Aston built the house as soon as the road was
open for travel, at the point where the road crossed the
run, and the ascent of Valley Hill commenced through the
notch, or gulf before described. This was not until 1 743-4,
and in the latter year we find Aston a resident of East
Whiteland, as well as a prominent member of St. Peter's
congregation in the Valley. He was also an active factor
48 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
in building the stone church (St. Peter's) in the Valley.
The church records state that: "April 15th, 1745, was
held a vestry in St. Peter's Church, which was the first
there ever held." George Aston is among those chosen as
vestrymen, and in the subsequent allotment of pews No. 4
fell to his lot. He was the eldest son of George Aston,
who purchased 500 acres of land, and settled in Cain. He
was a prominent citizen, and served as one of the justices
of the county from 1724 to 1729. In the administration
of his office he, however, seems to have been too zealous
by encouraging litigation where it should have been
avoided. Complaint of this fact being made, and coming
to the knowledge of Hon. Patrick Gordon, the Governor
acquainted the board that it was necessary that a new com-
mission of " the Peace for Chester county should be issue,
and that he had some very good reasons for leaving out
one, viz: George Aston, who had acted but too much, &c."
George Aston, the elder, died in 1738, leaving two sons
and three daughters. George, the eldest, and builder of
the old wayside inn, married a daughter of Owen Thomas,
of East Whiteland, and became the owner of the property
now known as the Warren property. Application for
license was no doubt made to the Court as soon as the
house was ready for occupancy. This was granted in
1745. The inn was located, as was then the universal cus-
tom, near or at a running stream of water, and situated
about midway between its rivals — the " Blue Ball " and
the " Sign of the White Horse " — became from the start
the stopping place for the churchmen and missionaries as
they journeyed along the road. The house when first
licensed was named the " Admr. Vernon," after a cele-
brated British naval officer. Sir Edward Vernon, the hero
of Porto Bello, and who in view of his achievements was
Wayside bins on Lancaster Turnpike. 49
then the idol of England. With the outbreak of the
French and Indian troubles, the gallant capture of Louis-
burg, June 17, 1745, followed by the victories over
the French fleet in 1747 by Admiral Peter Warren,
K.C.B., the latter soon became the ideal hero of the war
party in the province, of which Aston was a prominent
member; and it was not long before the former hero was
supplanted in the minds of the people by the latter, whose
deeds of valor were performed really to protect the
colonies.
The change on the sign board of our wayside inn was
probably made in 1748 when Aston relinquished the house
to one Daniel Goldsmith, who rented the inn. It appears
from the records that for some reason, not stated, the new
host was refused a license by the Governor in the next year,
1749. George Aston then again took, charge, but when
the French and Indian troubles broke out in 1753, threat-
ening the lives and homes of the inhabitants of the Chester
Valley, while the Governor and the council were squab-
bling as to whether there should be any defence or not,
George Aston was among the first men in the county to
form a company for the defence of the province, and with
them did his duty well in checking the infuriated savages
in Northampton County.
In the account of the public expenditures of the day we
find an entr}', March 2, 1756, where the Assembly voted
£240, 15s. 4d. "to Captain George Aston for himself and
his companys pay."
On account of Captain Aston's prominence as a military
man, the house now became a rendezvous and center for
the military as well as the church party in this section of
the county. In most of the local military documents from
4t
50 The Peiuisylvama-Gcnnan Society.
Braddock to Stanwix we find "George Aston's " noted as
a landmark and stopping place. Aston's son, Owen, be-
came the County " Wagon Master," while in Roger Hunt's
account book of 1759, who was a brother-in-law of Cap-
tain Aston's, we find frequent reference to " George Aston
at ye Admiral Warren."
Aston appears to have kept the house during these trou-
blesome times, when the PVench and Indians inspired so
much fear in the community, until 1760, when he was suc-
ceeded as host by one Peter Valleau. Three years later
Aston and his wife sold the property to Lnyford Lardner,
of Philadelphia, a brother-in-law of Richard Penn, and
who was the agent of the Penn family in America. Val-
leau continued until 1767. Nothing of note is known to
have occurred during his occupancy.
He was succeeded by Caleb Parry, who deserves more
than a passing notice. He was the son of David Parry,
of Tredyffrin, whose father, James Parry, donated the
ground on which the Great Valley Presbyterian Church
was built. During the French and Indian times David
Parry was one of the associators, and the lad, Caleb, no
doubt imbibed much of his military spirit from him, and
at the very outbreak of the Revolution we find Caleb Parry
commissioned as Lieutenant Colonel in Colonel Atlee's
"First Regiment of Pennsylvany Musketry," recruited
mainly from among the Presbyterians in the Chester and
Pequea Valleys. He was active in all the military opera-
tions around New York, which culminated so disastrously
to the patriot cause, and on the memorable 27th of August,
1776, in the engagement known as the Battle of Long
Island, Colonel Parry was numbered among the slain, as
his brother officers stated, "Dying like a hero." An
account of the affair states:
S rnc^
— 3) 00 W
S I
m —
« z <
> ^
_ o ^k >
r- • -• m
H -
O m
« ^ z
w —
H
I
m
T)
m
z
z
0)
-<
r-
<
>
Z
>
I
o
m
>
z
05
o
o
IV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. $1
"The men shrunk and fell back, but Atlee rallied them
and Parr}' cheered them on and they gained the hill. It
was here, while engaged in an officer's highest duty, turn-
ing men to the enemy by his own example, that the fatal
bullet pierced his brow."
To return to the roadside inn during the second year
that Parry was in charge, a danger threatened the inn.
This was nothing more or less than the petition for license
of a new house between the Warren and the Blue Ball.
Parry fearing this would injure his business appealed to
his landlord, Lynford Lardner, to use his influence with
the Governor to prevent a license being granted to Joshua
Evans, the new applicant. Lardner in pursuance to the
request sent a protest to the Court, in which he states that
about six years before he had purchased the estate of
George Aston and wife, three and a half miles from " Blue
Ball " and three miles from " White Horse," and he feared
the establishment of another tavern between his and the
Blue Ball would discourage his tenant, &c. The protest,
however, did not avail, as the license was granted and the
" General Paoli " was the result. Parr}' remained at the
Warren for another year after the Paoli was opened, when
he resigned in favor of Isaac Webb, who was there
177 1-2-3. H^ ^'^^ ^^^^ ^ renter and was followed by
Samuel Johnson, in 1774. In this year Lynford Lardner,
the owner of the propert}', died October 6th, and his will,
proved October 25, 1774, following curious provision is
made. He orders that his executors " do sell and dispose
of the iron works newly erected, known as the x*\ndover
Iron Works, in the Province of New Jersey, and also my
messuage and tenniment, commonly called by the name of
Warren Tavern, in the county of Chester, and the planta-
tions and lands thereunto belonging, which I purchased
52 The Peimsylvania-Gcrman Society.
from George Asheton and wife, for the payment of just
debts, and for other purposes in this, my last will, &c., &c."
In pursuance with the above provision, Catharine Lard-
ner and John Lardner, the executors, November 2, 1776,
conveyed the "Admiral Warren plantation, in Whiteland
township," to Hon. John Penn, of Philadelphia.
Samuel Johnson was the tenant until the property was
transferred to the new owner, when he was succeeded by
Peter Mather, a man of strong Tory proclivities.
During the term of Webb and Johnson the old inn seems
to have lost prestige. This was partially caused by the
" General Paoli " becoming the favorite gathering place of
the patriot spirits, with which the locality abounded,
while the Warren and the Unicorn, seven miles below, had
the reputation of being loyal houses.
Local tradition tells us that the Warren became the
gathering place for the Tories in the vicinity, and such
persons as were disaffected to the patriot cause. Further
that after the outbreak of active hostilities, meetings were
frequently held in the house, where British envoys, or offi-
cers, were present, and information which had been ob-
tained was sent to the enemy. Notable among the visitors
to the inn at the time was the talented, but unfortunate,
Major Andre, who was then a paroled prisoner of war at
Lancaster, and who had the liberty of certain roads, among
which was the Philadelphia road to within a point twenty
miles from the city.
What good use Andre made of his parole may be sur-
mised, when it is known that he is said to have mapped
the country and suggested the capture of Philadelphia by
way of the Chesapeake and Great Valley, the plan so suc-
cessfully carried out by Howe and Cornwallis in the Fall
of 1777.
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 53
In the year 1777, -when it was destined that the tide of
war should surge through our fertile valley — then the
garden of Pennsylvania — the house was in charge of Peter
Mather, who, If our traditions be true, was like his prede-
cessor, a strong ton'. This is further strengthened by the
fact that when the British Army was quartered In the val-
ley Mather was one of the few who appears to have suf-
fered no loss, while his immediate neighbors lost almost
all of their possessions.
On the eventful night of the 20th of September, when
the cohorts of the enemy under Grey, accompanied by his
aid, Major Andre, silently marched up theSwedeford road,
they wheeled to the left at the road which led to the War-
ren, where a halt was made, and to divert suspicion from
the real traitors who guided the advance, the patriotic
blacksmith at the shops, then situated on the south side of
the old Lancaster road just north of the present turnpike
bridge, was forced to get out of his bed and accompany the
column. This dreadful occurrence of this dark night It is
unnecessary' to repeat here, as they are well-known In his-
tory as the " Massacre at Paoli," and have been graphically
described by more able pens than that of the writer.
After the British had left the vicinity Mather, the inn
keeper, was publicly charged by his neighbors as being
responsible for the massacre, also of having guided the
British. Both of these accusations he strenuously denied,
producing proof that he had not been out of the house dur-
ing the night. In confirmation of his statements are the
two facts, viz. : First, that In no known British letter, report
or account Is mention made of Peter Mather, or his connec-
tion with the attack; second, that notwithstanding the sus-
picion attached to him he was permitted to continue to live
in the house and keep the inn for a number of years. The
54 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
place, however, was shunned and avoided by most of the
residents of the vicinity, and the inn keeper drew his patron-
age from the chance travellers on the road, who knew noth-
ing of the odium common report attached to the unfortu-
nate Boniface. From these facts it may be surmised that
the enterprise was not a financial success.
About the close of the Revolutionary war there was con-
siderable excitement throughout the count}' in reference to
the proposed removal of the county seat from Chester, on
the Delaware, to a more central part in the county. There
were three points suggested, all being public houses, viz.:
"Downing's," the "Turk's Head" (now West Chester),
and the "Admiral Warren," with the chances in favor of
the latter on account of its position in the Great Valley,
and being within easy reach from all points in the county;
but the fact that the property was owned by one of the
Penn family, together with the state of the popular feeling
towards anything which savored of the old regime, pre-
cluded the acceptance of the locality on any condition.
Notwithstanding the activity of John Penn's agents and
friends the agitation of the matter only tended the more to
incense the populace against the old inn; consequently,
when in 1783, the Assembly passed an Act (March 19)
doubling the rates of all tavern licenses, the outlook be-
came still darker for Mather. He, however, held out
until the property was sold, when he made a sale of his
personal effects and went to West Chester. Shortly after
the removal of the county seat there he kept a licensed
house within the new borough, again succeeding, it is said,
the very man — Isaac Webb — who had occupied the " War-
ren" prior to Alather. In the new location his expecta-
tions again failed to be realized, so after remaining for a
year or two he seems to have drifted to the city, where his
a H
« S
OS
« s
r 5
1 o
O ■
2 *
n —
-I *■.
I
m
>
z
o
>
en
H
m
33
H
C
33
Z
t;
m
>
-I
o
m
H
O
z
m
o
CO
O
o
H
I
m
■V
m
z
z
en
<
<
>
z
o
m
>
z
en
O
O
m
H
<
JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 55
ill fortune followed him ; as the people who knew him were
wont to say "God frowned on him," so he fell lower and
lower in the social scale. First he drove team or dray,
but finally in his old age came down to pushing a hand
cart or wheelbarrow, and even here the boys were wont to
make his existence miserable by calling after him " Here
we are and there we go," and " Remember Paoli."
The ownership of the old Roadside Inn now passed into
the possession of the Fahnestock family, in whose hands it
was to remain for more than half a century, and reach a
renown and popularity second to none of the sixty odd'
hostelries on the roadside betw-een the city and Lancaster.
Many are the tales told of how Fahnestock bought the
house; how the vendue crier refused his bid on account of
his uncouth appearance as he stood there in his long coat
of undyed homespun, secured by large hooks and eyes in
lieu of buttons; his long straggling beard and hair but
partly hidden by his broad brimmed hat, his homemade
cowhide boots, and worse than all he was clad in a pair of
pantaloons, a fact which made him the butt of all present.
Then how he produced the bright jingling coin, and told
the crier that if his bids wouldn't count his money would,
and the subsequent discomfiture of the vendue crier. These
tales and many more of a similar import were told and
retold in the barrooms, and to travelers in stages along the
road until they were as current on the pike as they were
among the children of the cross-roads school, or among the
old crones who sat besides the hearth, " A whirling their
wheel, or quilting the coverlids."
The true facts of the case are that John Penn, the owner
of the property, was anxious to dispose of the whole prop-
erty. This by some means became known to Casper Fahne-
stock, a member of the German Mystic Community' at
56 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
Ephrata, and resulted in Casper, accompanied by Brother
Jabez (Rev. Peter Miller), the prior of the congregation,
and another brother, making a pilgrimage down the Lan-
caster road in the last week, of March, 1786, to Philadel-
phia. They traveled on foot, as was their custom, clad in
the rough habit of their order with staff in hand, Casper,
in addition, carrying a pair of saddle bags. When the trio
arrived at the Warren they craved admittance, but received
a rebuff from Mather, who told them "no beggars were
wanted around there," so the three brethren continued on
to the city. Penn, who was known to Brother Jabez, was
at once called on, the price agreed upon, the conveyance
made, executed and acknowledged in open court, March
31, 1786, before Hon. Edward Shippen, President- Judge
of the Common pleas. This document states that the
Hon. John Penn, Esquire, and Dame Anne, his wife, con-
vey to Casper Fahnestock, of Cocalico township, Lancaster
county, shopkeeper, the Warren Tavern plantation of 337
acres, the consideration being two thousand pounds lawful
money of Pennsylvania in specie of gold or silver. This
money was paid out of the saddlebags which Casper had
carried all the way from Ephrata, the subscribing witnesses
being Peter Miller and Joan Louis Patey. The trio imme-
diately started west on their return in the same manner as
they had come. Casper's saddlebags were lightened of
their weight of coin, but contained the plantation in its
stead. On their arrival at the tavern, it was long after
nightfall. The mystic brethren, however, stopped and
inquired for Mather, who had, it seems, already gone to
bed. As the latter came down in gown and slippers, Cas-
per told him that he was now the owner of the property,
and intended to remain and examine his purchase in the
morning, a proceeding to which there was no objection
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 57
from the now obsequious Mather. In a few days the old
Tory made a vendue, at which Casper was a frequent
bidder, and ere the first week of April had elapsed the old
Roadside Inn was in charge of the German Sabbatarian
from the Monastery on the Cocallco. The new host,
although an old man, being over sixty years of age, soon
made his presence felt with the wagoners and travellers on
the road. In view of the succeeding events, an extended
notice of the first of the name in Chester count\', as well
as his successors will not be amiss.
Casper Fahnestock was a native of Germany, born in
1724. He was the eldest son of Dietrich Fahnestock, the
founder of the "whole tribe of Fahnestocks" (in Amer-
ica) , as the inscription calls him on his tombstone in the old
God's Acre of the Sabbath-keepers at Ephrata, on the banks
of the Cocalico. Dietrich, the elder, came to this country
with his wife, child and two sisters, in 1726. His sole
possessions consisted of an axe, a weaver's shuttle, a Bible
and a German thaler. He first settled on the Raritan
River in New Jersey where the family lived for a number
of years, but becoming convinced of the truth of the Sabba-
tarian doctrine, joined that body of Christians, and about
1748 we find the family residents of Ephrata. In the next
year, June 21, 1749, a patent was granted him by the
Governor for 329 acres of land at ? ? ? ?
as the founder of the "Chester County" Fahnestocks.
Casper, as were the rest of the family, was a member of
the Ephrata community' ; his aunt even entered the Convent
Saron, and became known as "Sister Armilla"; they were
all consistent Sabbath-keepers, Casper and his wife Maria
in addition keeping several other mosaic laws, such as
eschewing the use of pork, the use of meats and milk at the
same meals, &c. It was from these peculiarities that the
58 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
common impression arose among his English neighbors,
that the family were of the Jewish faith.
The new owner had no sooner taken charge than the
tavern at once became the stopping place for all of the
Lancaster county Germans. Menish, Dunker, Ornish,
Lutheran, Reformist and Moravian all found shelter and
entertainment with theold"Sieben-Tager"* from Ephrata.
Casper was ably seconded by the members of his family;
his wife Maria, and mother-in-law, Elizabeth Gleim, took
charge of the kitchen, the oldest son Charles presided over
the bar, Daniel, who was a cripple, and his brother Diet-
rich, assisted in the house and tavern-yard, while the two
other children, Esther and Catherine, with Charles' wife
Susan, attended to the wants of the house, table and guests.
Just six months after the family were domiciled in the old
tavern Casper's wife's mother, Elizabeth Gleim, died in
her 75th year. She was buried on the plantation in a small
clearing on the northern slope of South Valley Hill, about
one fourth of a mile from the tavern, according to the
custom of the Sabbatarians of that day; due north and
south, with prayer and song, the ceremonies being con-
ducted by the reverend Prior, of the Ephrata community.
Brother Jabez. This spot was in the course of time sur-
rounded by a low stone wall and became the burial ground
of the Fahncstock family (Chester county branch) and
now through neglect and the ravages of time has become
about as gruesome a place of sepulture as it is possible to
imagine.
At this period of history the German element had in-
creased to so great an extent in our State, that it actually
became a question whether the State should not become a
German State, and that all judicial and legislative proceed-
* Member of the mystic Seventh-day Baptist Community of Ephrata,
Lancaster Co., Penna.
H
I
m
■D
m
z
2
cn
<
<
>
z
o
m
S
>
z
CO
O
O
m
H
<
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 59
ings be held in that language. In 1787, the German high
school was established with a grant of 10,000 acres of
land. German was introduced into the different charity
and township schools; all tending to lay the foundation for
a German commonwealth; the plan cherished by the pro-
jectors was to eradicate the English language completely.
The German element held together and won victory after
victory at the polls over the "die diimmen Irischer," as
their English-speaking opponents were called. At last
their preponderance became so great that everything
seemed favorable to bring about the result, viz.: That the
German language would be legally declared to be the
tongue of the commonwealth, when the French revolution
broke out with its attendant influx of French refugees,
French ideas of atheism, ( foreign to the German character) ,
liberty, equality, etc., etc. This was followed by the gen-
eral war in Europe, and the almost total cessation of emi-
gration from Germany. During this state of affairs the
English-speaking element gained strength from day to day,
and the German struggle for supremacy, so auspiciously
begun, soon declined; and it was not long before the high
school at Lancaster, which was to have been the great uni-
versity of America, became a thing of the past. Politically,
however, the Germans for many years continued to hold
the balance of power.
Among the wagoners and travelers on the turnpike the
German element was so largely in the majority that no
public house could succeed unless some one in charge was
conversant with the German tongue. As there was no
question about the nationality of the new host of the War-
ren, he being German to the core, his great difficulty was
from the start to provide for those who sought his shelter.
Further, by his attention to business and the cleanliness of
the house, the Inn soon became a desirable stopping place
6o The Pennsylvania-German Society.
for "Irisher" or "Gentleman," as well as for the
" Deutscher." It even became a station for the profes-
sional express rider, a character and occupation long since
passed away and forgotten.
Thus matters went on, the patronage and renown of
" the Dutch tavern," as it was called by the wagoners,
increased with the travel of the road, and the proprietor
kept pace with the requirements of the traveling public.
Casper kept the Corduroy Causeway through the swamp in
better repair than it had been heretofore, a proceeding
which pleased the frequenters of the road and proved
another feature to attract custom to the Inn. This cause-
way was to the north of the present turnpike bridge, and
before this time was one of the worst places on the Lan-
caster road, being often impassable in the spring and
winter.
Some idea of the difficulties of the travel in that day may
be gleaned from the following letters, written just a cen-
tury ago by Miss Marie Penry, the daughter of a cele-
brated Welsh physician. She was one of the Moravian
Sisterhood at Lititz, and gives a graphic description of her
trip from Philadelphia to Lancaster. Nothing could illus-
trate more forcibly the great change which has taken place
during the centurj' in the time and manner of communica-
tion between the two places. Miss Penry writes that she
set out from Philadelphia on a Friday morning in Novem-
ber, leaving the city at 8 o'clock. Her traveling com-
panions consisted besides the driver of Mr. Tilt and wife,
and two children, seven years old, twins. He was a Brit-
ish officer who had been a prisoner of war at Lancaster,
and there married, and on his release went to Halifax, and
was now on his way to see his relatives. This composed
the load. When they arrived at Fahnestock's they stopped
JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 6i
for refreshment for man and beast, and there met an Irish
gentleman and his wife who had arrived in the country but
a few days before, and were now on their way to the west-
em end of the county. They had hired a chair and came
thus far, when their driver refused to proceed on account
of the bad condition of the roads, and being unable to
procure any conveyance were in consequence stranded in a
strange land. When the party started on their journey
they took the " Irish Gentlewoman " as the letter calls
her, in the stage with them, and as her husband could not
even get a horse for hire, he was obliged to travel on foot
along side of the stage. Thus the journey to the Brandy-
wine commenced. It was, however, not destined to con-
tinue to the end of their goal, as the extra weight in the
stage with the roughness of the road, had a bad effect on
the vehicle, which proved unequal to the strain. The party
had not proceeded far ere a crack was heard, and the hind
axle broke, letting the stage down on the road. Fortu-
nately the horses were stopped and the passengers gotten
out of the wreck without injur)'. The party, the letter
continues, now all footed it Indian fashion to the nearest
inn, which was about two miles from where the stage broke
down (probably the Sheaf of Wheat). On their arrival
they partook of an ordinary wayside meal. The spirits of
the party were clouded by the prospect of having to pass
Saturday and perhaps Sunday there. However, after the
meal was finished a countryman offered to take the party
to Downing's for a consideration, as a great favor. His
team proved to be a country wagon without springs or
cover, with no seats other than bundles of rye straw. Into
this vehicle. Miss Penr)' continues, we went with all our
packages, and our Irish gentleman, who seemed to think
that " humble riding was better than proud walking on
62 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
foot" was but too glad to avail himself of the opportunity
to join the party. Thus the part)' arrived long after dark
at the hospitable house of the "Downings"; as the fair
writer adds — " Politeness and good nature had lessened
every difficulty."
The time, 1789, from Philadelphia to Downings, was
over twelve hours, express time 1889 is one hour.
At this period there were two matters agitating the com-
munity, both of which seriously affected the usually imper-
turbable inn-keeper. One was the question of making a
stone highway, chaussie, or turnpike, to take the place of
the old road. The second was the action taken by the
Federal government in taxing whiskey, a matter which was
destined to lead to the most serious consequences.
A fact not generally known is, that the first organized
opposition to the new excise law, took place in our Chester
county, and the exciseman or collector was roughly used,
barely escaping with his life. The rioters, however, were
convicted and punished severely by the State Courts. On
that occasion the foreman of the jury told the Attorney
General " that he was much or more opposed to the excise
law than the rioters, but would not suffer violators of the
law to go unpunished."
This opposition thus started extended to the western
counties, where it culminated in 1794, in what is known in
history as the "Whiskey insurrection." When President
Washington issued his requisition for military force fo
quell the incipient insurrection against Federal authority,
Governor Mifflin, in response to the Federal proclamation,
made a personal tour through the eastern part of the State
to arouse the military spirit of the populace. In the prog-
ress of this trip he came through Chester county and
addressed the people at various points, among others the
JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 63
Warren Tavern is named, where, it is stated that, notwith-
standing the protests from the proprietor, who, as a con-
sistent Sabbath-keeper, was a non-combatant, a recruiting
office was opened and a company recruited by Edward
Pearce, which became known as " Captain Parker's Com-
pany " of Colonel Harris' Regiment, Edward Pearce being
promoted to the Adjutancy. It was not long before the
tocsin of war, the piercing note of the fife, and the heavy
tread of armed men was again heard in our peaceful valley.
Most of the troops, however, marched by way of the
Swedesford, striking the Lancaster road a little below the
"White Horse." The baggage and supplies came out
over the new turnpike, which had been made here and
there in sections between the Warren and the city, but
which on account of the ignorance displayed by those hav-
ing the enterprise in charge was almost impassable, even
for the baggage trains. However, the incipient war in
Western Pennsylvania was soon over, when the efforts to
perfect the new turnpike were redoubled; the long bridge
was built and the new road at the "Warren" occupied
almost all the roadbed of the provincial thoroughfare.
Casper, to be up to the times, and foreseeing the large in-
crease in the travel, at an early day set about to prepare
materials for a new house on as large a scale as the Siters
had built six miles below. This new house was built so as
to face on the north side of the turnpike. The old "Ad-
miral Vernon," similar to all of the inns on the Lancaster
road, was built on the south side of the road, and it was
not long ere the new sign board of the " General Warren "
swung in its yoke on a high mast near the southeast angle
of the new turnpike tavern.
With the native thrift of old Casper and his family all
the work had to be done by themselves — trees were felled,
64 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
hewed and sawed, lime burned, sand hauled and stone quar-
ried— for the new hostelry. A curious anecdote is told
about old Casper in connection with the latter labor: Dur-
ing the fine moonlight nights in summer " Old Cas," as he
was called, would make his men work in the quarry long
after supper, or, at least, would go and swing the sledge
by himself. This was not to the taste of the young genera-
tion, and several made up their minds that they would
stop the old German and get him out of his Dutch notions.
So the Pearce boys, the next night, rigged themselves up in
horns and blankets, carrying heavy log chains, and quietly
getting near where the old man was cracking the stone in
the moonlight, jumped up, rattled their chains and uttered
unearthly yells. The old man, startled for a moment,
resumed his labor as unconcerned as if they were trees,
merely saying: " I bees not afrait von yous if you bees der
teufel," finishing up with, " Wer auf Gott vertraut kan
weder tod nocht teufel schaden,"* and calmly continued
his work.
Another one relates how it would worry the old man
during harvest when the mowers or reapers would sit down
longer for rest or refreshments than he thought they ought
to, and when he could stand it no longer he would come up
and say, "Now, poys, youse takes a bissel grog (whiskey
and water) ; es is not goot so long to sitz on de kalt grund;
takes a bissel grog and youse goes on."
The new tavern, however, was built and ready long
before the turnpike was a complete success, for many were
the trials of the public spirited projectors of the enterprise.
With the completion of the turnpike there came a demand
for increased mail facilities. The government then en-
grossed with the French question and the impending war
with that power, yet found time to accede to the demand
* Whoever trusts in God neither death nor Satan can harm.
I
I
m
■V
m
z
z
CO
-<
l-
<
>
ID
m
73
s
>
z
a>
O
o
m
-i
<
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 65
of the people. A post office was established in Downlng-
town April i, 1798, the only one between Philadelphia and
Lancaster, and the official announcement was made that
there would be three mails per week between Philadelphia,
Downingtown and Lancaster, closing one-half hour before
sunset every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. This was
hailed with satisfaction by everyone.
In connection with the French war excitement of 1798
there is a curious anecdote. Early in the year envoys were
appointed to France by President Adams. One of these,
Callender by name, in place of embarking for France left
the city on a tour westward. Why or what for was not
known at the time. He got as far as Fahnestock's and
remained there several days, until on the morning of July
13th, when he was found by a teamster a little after day
break laying over 21st mile-stone dead — drunk.
The explanation of Commissioner Callender's strange
conduct is very simple when it is known that three fugitive
French Princes, Louis Phillipe, Duke de Montpensier and
the Count de Beaujolais, were at that time sheltered under
the humble, but hospitable roof of the old German Sabbath-
keeper. It would be difficult to imagine a greater contrast
than the home of these scions of French royalty at that
time with their former residence, viz., the Palais Royal at
Paris. The humble Roadside Inn, however, had this great
advantage, the three princes were as safe as the humblest
laborer in the land; their heads were safe on the shoulders
of their effete bodies.
It was to consult with these princes that Callender came
to the old Roadside Inn. The princes naturally did all
they could to favorably impress the Commissioner and
gain him for their cause. In this attempt they drew heavily
on their scant resources, plying the Commissioner liberally
5t
66 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
with numerous bottles of old Madeira, which had been
bought by Casper at Mather's sale and which it was
claimed had come over the water, while yet the signboard
bore the legend " Ye Adm'll Vernon."
It was in this eventful year ( 1798) that the capital city
was again visited by the yellow fever scourge. A camp
for patients was established beyond the Schuylkill, and
donations of farm and garden produce were solicited.
The Fahnestocks at once took active measures to collect
and send the needed supplies to the sufferers, vieing with
the Downings and Joseph Moore, of East Whiteland, in
supplying the necessaries and luxuries to the sick and con-
valescent poor of the fever-stricken city.
After the road was finished and by its advantages and
superiority over the common roads came into universal
favor, with teamsters and travellers, the old tavern stands
soon had more patronage than they could accommodate;
this was especially the case with the Fahnestock's. Old
Casper although having long passed the allotted period of
three score and ten, still continued as host and proprietor
of the house, holding to the German maxim that "No
father should give the reins of his hands to his child as
long as he lived." However, in 1789, old Casper then
in his 77th year, was forced by the infirmities of age to
relinquish the house to his son Charles, who was then in
his 37th year, and in whose name the license was granted
for the last year of the Eighteenth Century.
In the next year (1800), the present blacksmith shops
were built on the turnpike. As before stated, the old shop
on the Lancaster road stood in the meadow, about five feet
north of the turnpike bridge. The top of the roof of the
old shop was on a level with the low parapet of the present
bridge and stood there for many years.
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 67
As has been mentioned in a previous article, during the
period of 1 790-1 800 when Philadelphia was the capital of
the United States, there were frequently delegations of the
Indian tribes, who travelled up and down the road in their
journey to visit the "Great Father"; on one of these
visits an occurrence took place, which caused much specu-
lation, and remains to the present day an unsolved prob-
lem, notwithstanding the many attempts made by the
Fahnestock family and many others to solve the enigma.
It was as follows: A short time after the turnpike was
finished an Indian coming down the road had broken some-
thing about his gun, and, when he came to the Warren
asked the smith at the shops to repair it. The blacksmith
had just run out of charcoal, which was the only kind of
coal then used by smiths, and told the Indian that he could
not fix his gun until he had burnt a new kiln of charcoal.
The Indian asked him if he would do it if he got him coal,
and getting an answer in the affirmative he took up a pick
and basket which were in the shops, and giving a grunt
started for the woods on the South Valley hill. He re-
turned in about half an hour with a basket full of black
rocks or stones. The smith tried to make the Indian under-
stand it was coal that he needed. The Indian merely put
some of his black stones on the hearth and pulled the bel-
lows, and to the surprise of the smith the stones com-
menced to burn. The Indian merely said, " White man
now fix gun." The now thoroughly surprised smith found
the Indian's rocks equal to his best charcoal. The gun was
repaired, and the smith was naturally anxious to know
where the burning stones were found, but nothing could in-
duce the Indian to divulge where he had found it except
that he said " there was much — much," pointing towards
the wooded hillside. Many were the efforts made from
68 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
that day to this to discover the location, but so far without
success.
Although with the advent of the nineteenth century
Philadelphia had ceased to be the capital city the traffic
on the turnpike showed no diminution; our road became
the great highway to the West. Stage lines were started
to all points, while wagoning and emigrants increased to
such an extent that ere long the licensed houses on the road
between Philadelphia and Lancaster averaged one to the
mile, and even then the farm houses adjacent to the high-
way were often called upon to accommodate the overflow.
When the political question cropped out in relation to
the western territory, which culminated in the "Aaron
Burr" fiasco, it became imperative as early as 1804 that
regular communication should be maintained between
Philadelphia and the Ohio at Pittsburg, other than by the
always more or less uncertain post or express rider. Satis-
factory arrangements, however, were not consummated
until after much effort on the part of the federal author-
ities. The first notice of the new enterprise was the follow-
ing quaint announcement — it was published in but a single
paper, and is here reproduced in full as a contrast to the
railroad advertisements of the present day — viz. :
PHILADELPHIA & PITTSBURG
MAIL STAGES.
A contract being made with the Postmaster General of
the United States for the carrying of the mail to and from
Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, in stage wagons, a line of
stages will be in operation on the first of July next, on
same route, which line will start from John Tomlinson's
Spread Eagle, Market street. No. 285, Philadelphia, and
from Thomas Ferree's, the Fountain Inn, Water street.
JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 69
Pittsburgh; and perform the same route in seven days from
the above places. Passengers must pay $20.00 each, with
the privilege of twenty pounds of baggage, all above that
weight, or baggage sent by above line, to pay at the rate
of $12.00 per 100 pounds, if the packages are of such
dimensions as to be admissible for conveyance.
The proprietors of this line of stages, well knowing the
arduous undertaking of a new establishment, and aware of
the laborious task and expense that the prosecutors of
their necessar}' engagements will require, are determined
that their conduct shall be such, as they trust will be sanc-
tioned by a discerning public and receive their support.
Printed cards will be distributed, and may be had at the
proprietors' different stage houses, giving a full detail of
the distances and times of arrival at the several towns
through which the line shall pass.
N. B. — Printers who shall think the above establishment
a public benefit will please give the same a place in their
respective papers a few times.
Philadelphia, June 13, 1804.
As announced in the above adv'ertlsement, promptly at
8 o'clock on the morning of the 4th of July, 1 804, a fit day
for the starting of the new national enterprise, the stage
which was to be the first to run through from the Delaware
to the Ohio was drawn up in front of Tomlinson's Spread
Eagle stage office, then at the northeast corner of 8th and
Market streets, the four prancing horses with bridles gaily
decorated with red, white and blue ribbons. Long before
the starting time the mail was in the "boot," the straps
drawn tight, the booked passengers in their seats, while as
a last precaution an extra keg of fistoil and tar was slung
to the hind axle, the lynch pin examined and the dust proof
7° The Pennsylvania-German Society.
covers fastened over the hubs. Then after another glass
was drunk the driver and armed guard took their places
on the box, the lines tightened, the whip cracked and the
pioneer mail stage to the West left the stage office among
the cheers of the assembled multitude and whirled rapidly
out Market street towards Center Square, where another
ovation awaited the stage and its occupants from the citi-
zens who were preparing to celebrate Independence Day.
The new permanent bridge was quickly passed and the
ironclad hoofs of the four prancing steeds clattered on the
smooth turnpike. At every tavernstand the passing mail
was received with cheers and wishes of Godspeed and safe
journey to the travelers. Stops were only made at such
stagehouses as the Buck, Eagle, Paoli, and there for liquid
refreshment only. It was near t\vo o'clock in the after-
noon, as the stage dashed down the Valley hill through the
toll gate at the twentieth milestone, when the guard blew
six sharp blasts on his bugle — this the signal to the host of
the "Warren" how many guests there would be for din-
ner; then came the notes of "Independence Day," the
"Yankee Doodle," the echo taking them up and returning
them through ravines on the hillside a hundred fold.
Hardly had the echo faded, when the four prancing steeds
were reined up in front of the " Warren." The stage door
was quickly opened, the passengers alighting and meeting
with a greeting as only Charles Fahnestock was capable of
extending to the wayfarer. The dust was quickly washed
down with cold punch, when dinner was served, toasts
drunk and ample justice done to the viands. In the mean-
time the anvil of the shops had been brought out into the
road and improvised as a cannon, and load after load was
fired in hjonor of the occasion. During the dinner the relays
had been brought out, and the stage was once more ready
JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. ^i
for the journey westrsvard. Another punch \%'as drunk,
hands shaken, and amid wishes of Godspeed, the reports
of the improvised artillery, and the cheers of the assembled
neighbors, mingled with the bugle notes of the guard, the
stage with its freight started merrily up the hill on its way
towards the Ohio.
This enterprise of running mail stages through to Pitts-
burg formed the theme of conversation for the balance of
the week. Many were the different opinions pro and con
— prophecies of failure and adverse criticisms; yet notwith-
standing the headshaking and discouraging comments of
Old Casper, the stage went through, arrived safely on time
in a week, and the through mail was an established fact.
These stages were what in later years was known as the
" Good Intent Line." The route lay from Lancaster to
Chambersburg, by way of Carlisle and Strasburg; arriving
in Chambersburg in t^vo and one half days, averaging
about four miles an hour, from the latter place to the end
of the journey; the progress under the most favorable cir-
cumstances was much slower, the distance from Chamers-
burg to Pittsburg, about 150 miles, taking four and one
half days, or about two to two and a half miles an hour.
There were thirty-five regular stopping places or stages
bet^-een the two cities. At first the enterprise was slow in
coming into favor with the traveling public. It was not
until the following year ( 1805) that the proprietors were
taxed to their capacity and were forced to run an occasional
special or extra coach; this was necessitated by the excite-
ment caused by the Burr Exposition, which had then
reached its culmination ; the success of the through stage
line opened a new era for the Warren, and the house under
the management of Charles Fahnestock, became known to
travelers in this country and Europe, as one of the best kept
72 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
houses in America. He was a rather spare built man, of 5
feet 1 1 inches, with a full beard, and always wore a brown
or snuff-colored coat and spoke with a strong German
accent. He was very particular in regard to the sale of
liquors; ordinary local patronage and wagons were not
encouraged. The bar was a small arrangement very high,
and slabs running about 2 inches wide, and 3 inches apart,
running from bar to ceiling. In front there was a small
opening with an outside shelf holding about four glasses.
The liquor was measured out by the gill or half gill and
passed through this opening. When the landlord thought
a patron had enough he would refuse him any more telling
him quietly " to sit down awhile." The tavern keeper con-
fined himself strictly within the old law of 1762 by which
"Taverns were allowed to sell to regular inmates and
travellers in moderation," (Acts Assembly, vol. i, pp.
19-21 — fol. Phila. 1762.)
The Fahnestock family had no sooner learned the prin-
ciples and teachings of their guests than the Owens, Miss
Wright and their followers were kindly and firmly in-
formed by Charles Fahnestock that they would have to
seek other quarters, that the house would afford them
shelter no longer, nor would he harbor anyone who pro-
mulgated sentiments similar to theirs, which were so for-
eign to all religious and moral teachings. Another guest
during the agitation of Owen's plan for colonization in the
Great Valley was his Highness Bernhardt, Duke of Sachse-
Weimar-Eisenach, who was then on a visit to this country.
The attempt of Owen to interest the nobleman in his
scheme resulted as did all of Owen's plans — in failure.
As before stated, local custom was not encouraged by
the inn-keeper, regular habitues of the tavern were few,
and such as there was were respectable and sober. Charles
JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 73
Fahnestock was naturally a temperance man, and had the
courage, when the house was at the height of popularity,
to close his bar on Sunday. This was an unheard-of inno-
vation at that day, which called down much adverse criti-
cism upon him. He, however, persisted, and even went
so far as to hang a sign over the bar
NO LIQUOR
SOLD ON THE
SABBATH
and he had enough moral courage to adhere to the deter-
mination. Among the few of the neighbors who were fre-
quently to be seen on the tavern porch was an Englishman
of means, Thomas Bradley, between whom and the inn-
keeper a strong bond of friendship had arisen. It lasted
until death parted the two friends in 1829. Thomas
Bradley was buried in the Fahnestock ground and is the
only stranger who rests within the enclosure.
Another visitor who was occasionally to be seen at the
Warren was Charles Fahnestock's cousin, Andrew. He
was a Sabbatarian, and on account of his originality and
appearance always attracted the attention of strangers.
He always travelled on foot, dressed in a long drab coat,
wearing a broad brimmed white hat, and carrying his long
"Pilgerstab" (staff) in his hand. He was at one time
quite wealthy, but gave all his wealth to the poor, saying
"The Lord would never suffer him to want." He would
never receive any salary for his services as preacher, trust-
ing entirely in the Lord for his support. On these visits
he would often take his cousin to task for joining the Pres-
byterian Church with his family and failing to keep the
Sabbath (7th day), as had his ancestors before him.
74 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
The preacher on his journeys along the pike was often
made the subject for the teamsters' jokes, who met him,
but, as we would say at the present day, Andrew never got
left. On one of these occasions, a teamster asked him if
he believed in the devil. Andrew answered that " he read
about him in his Bible." The wagoner then asked him if
he ever saw the devil. The answer he got was, " I never
want to see him plainer that I do just now." The ribald
wagoner had no more questions to ask the German Sab-
batarian.
At the commencement of the fourth decade (1830)
travel had increased to such an extent that greater facilities
and shorter time was demanded by the traveling public.
To meet this demand the proprietors of the stage line, S.
R. Slaymaker & Co., from Philadelphia to Chambersburg,
and Reside Slaymaker & Co., from Chambersburg to Pitts-
burg, increased their stock and facilities to so great an
extent that in 1831 they announced that they would hence-
forth run two daily lines to Pittsburg, viz. : The U. S. Mail
stage, the "Good Intent Line," would leave their office,
284 Market street, Philadelphia, above 8th street, every
morning at two o'clock a. m., for Pittsburg, via Lancaster,
Harrisburg, Carlisle, Chambersburg, Bedford, Somerset
and Mount Pleasant, going through in three days; only
six passengers being admitted to each stage, as many stages
were to be run as called for by the passengers, they aver-
aging about six daily.
The Mail Telegraph stage line left Philadelphia at 6.30
a. m. by way of Greensburg from Bedford, making the trip
in four days. This service was especially recommended to
families or ladies, as the telegraph line avoided the fatigue
of night travel. Firstrate horses, careful drivers and
splendid new coaches were held out as the inducement to
IVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 75
the traveling public. In September, 1831, during the
height of the traveling season the tavern was discovered
to be on fire. It was first discovered over the kitchen, and
is supposed to have been caused by a defective flue or
chimney. The whole structure soon fell a victim to the
destroying element.
A curious anecdote in connection with the fire was long
current. As soon as the alarm was given Charles called
on several of the willing helpers to carry down the old
German chest, which had belonged to his father, Casper.
It was so heavy that it took five men to carry it. The inn-
keeper had it carried across the road. He then sat on it
and calmly watched the destruction of his valuable prop-
erty. His action at the time caused much comment. No
information was vouchsafed. After the fire was subdued
and the danger to the outbuilding over, Charles had the
chest carefully carried to the house just east of the bridge,
never leaving the chest out of his sight until it was again
in a place of safety. The explanation to this was — the
old German oaken chest was his bank, weighted down by
the roleaux of gold and silver coin, which were stored be-
tween the folds of several old coverlids.
The house was at once rebuilt on the solid walls, which
were unharmed by the fire, and on its completion enjoyed
an increased patronage.
In the month of April, 1834, the Philadelphia and Co-
lumbia Railway was open for travel. For a time the
Green Tree had been the eastern terminus for the stages.
So far the Warren had not felt the effects of the new im-
provement. Within a month after the first train went
down the road drawn by the " Black Hawk " matters
changed. The stage coaches were withdrawn east of Co-
lumbia. It was the twentieth of May, a dark rainy day,
when the last regular stage passed the Warren on its way
76 The Pennsylvania-German Society.
eastward. The P^ahnestocks, similar to many other tavern
keepers who were off the railway, had no faith in its ulti-
mate success. The various local stages still ran, so did the
Pitt teams, but neither were accustomed to stop at the
Warren, nor could the old tavernkeeper bring himself
down to cater to that class of custom. For a while a stage
was run from the West Chester intersection to the Warren
for the benefit of such travelers who wanted to stop at the
Warren, but the arrangement was soon discontinued.
Charles Fahnestock, now well-advanced in years and dis-
gusted with the existing state of affairs, turned the inn over
to his son William, who had become a strict Presbyterian
and member of the Great Valley Church, much against the
wishes and advice of his " Uncle Andrew," who was wont
to tell him that all of his plans would " go aglee " unless
he returned to the faith of his forefathers and kept the
seventh day. William, however, turned a deaf ear to his
relative, and became a prominent man in the church. Be-
side being active in all church matters, he was for some
years the " precentor" and led the singing.
Wm. Fahnestock had presided over the inn not quite
three years when his father was gathered to his people,
and was buried with his father in the old family plot on
the Valley hill, the Rev. Wm. Latta consigning the body
to the grave. It is said that this was the last interment
in the ground.
William now had full sway, and as he was a strong
temperance man he at once stopped the sale of liquor, and
to the surprise of the frequenters of the pike a new sign
board appeared in front of the "Warren," not high up
in the yoke as of yore, but flat in front of the porch. It
was an oval sign hung on pivots and fastened with a hook.
During six days of the week it read:
Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 77
WARREN
TEMPERANCE
HOTEL.
At sundown on Saturday the sign was turned and until
Monday it read :
NOTHING
SOLD ON THE
SABBATH.
The new departure did not meet with favor, and the
patronage of the house rapidly decreased. The new host,
in his temperance idea, eventually went so far as to cut
down the large apple orchard which was in the field oppo-
site the house, south of the pike. This was done so as to
prevent the apples being used for cider. The year after
the experiment of keeping a temperance hotel failed —
summer boarders were tried with varying success. Wil-
liam also made several attempts to locate the traditionary
coal mine of the Indian, shafts were sunk at different
points on the South Valley hill, but were eventually aban-
doned. He also went extensively into the Morus Mitlti-
caulis craze* which ended in failure. It seemed, as if not
only the glory of the house had departed, but that the
prophecy of the old Seventh-day Baptist preacher, " Uncle
Andrew," was coming true.f So in the next year, 1838,
Wm. Fahnestock divided the tract up and sold it to vari-
ous parties, the tavern and adjacent fields being bought by
a Mr. Thompson, who kept it one year and then sold it
to Professor Stille, of Philadelphia, who in turn sold it in
1846 to the present owners.
• The silkworm craze.
t I'ide p. 77, supra.
I
3 1198 01935 5580
jlin III III III iiiiilN mill iN|i i|i I III
N/ina/Dnas/ssflDx
\s:rt
I BOOfSlsDlNC
Grant. ■!!* Pa
OcL ■ Dec 1995
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11