Western wanderings and summer saunterings through picturesque Colorado

Western
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WESTERN WANDERINGS AND
SUMMER SAUNTERINGS THROUGH
PICTURESQUE COLORADO + j*

BY

EMMA( ABBOTT 1GAGE

ILLUSTRATED WITH
28 PLATES

1900
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THE FRIEDENWALD COMPANY
BALTIMORE, MD. U. S. A.

COPYRIGHT, 1900

BY
EMMA ABBOTT GAGE

AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

TO

MY FATHER

WILLIAM MARTIN ABBOTT

EDITOR OF THE "EVENING CAPITAL"

ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND

IN WHICH PAPER
THESE LETTERS WERE ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED

APOLOGETIC.

One day, last September, while making a three-
days' trip over the picturesque Denver and Rio
Grande Railroad, from Denver to Grand Junction,
I casually mentioned to a fellow-traveler that I had
been writing letters, descriptive of my western trip,
to an eastern newspaper. He made the semi-sar-
castic rejoinder, " Then I suppose you are going to
write a book," and quoted the oft-heard expression
" Oh ! that mine enemy would write a book." I
said, " No, I had no thought nor intention of ever
inflicting such a burden upon my adversary or my
friend; " and at that time I had not.

After 4< Western Wanderings " of four months,
I returned to my home in the East, and found that
my letters had met with popular favor. This vol-
ume is a compilation of those letters, and is print-
ed only at the earnest solicitation of over-kind
friends, who assured me the letters received much
commendation, and that their compilation in book-
form would be very acceptable.

4 APOLOGETIC.

Apologetically, however, I trust I am not with-
out modesty becoming a country-school teacher,
and one who is a novice in literary work. I, there-
fore, offer this word of explanation at the outset as
to how this volume came into existence, and trust
it may afford at least a portion of the pleasure to
the reader, that it has given me to write it. I
should not care to have written on its fly-leaf those
lines the young lady wrote on a ponderous religi-
ous treatise loaned to her by a good old gentleman,
who read there on its return :

" If there should be another flood,

For refuge hither fly ;

Though all the world should be submerged,
This book would still be dry."

If my enemy be delighted that I have written a
book, I trust he may induce my friends to share
with him the same convivial spirit.

E. A. G.

Annapolis, Feb. igth, igoo.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT.

The author desires to acknowledge the kindness
of Mr. Griffith, of Minneapolis, Minn., for historic
information concerning the Baltimore and Ohio
Railroad; of Mr. S. K. Hooper, of the Denver and
Rio Grande Railroad, for literature and use of elec-
tros, and information received; of Mr. W. B. Knis-
kern, of the Chicago and North- Western Railroad;
Mr. E. L. Lomax, of the Union Pacific Railroad;
Mr. J. Francis, of the Burlington Route; and Mr.
W. E. Lowes, of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad
respectively, for the use of cuts illustrating scenes
on each of their roads; the A. S. Abell Co., of the
Baltimore Sun, for the use of engraving of Kansas
City Convention Hall; of guides, officials and
others in Colorado, Kansas City, Omaha and Chi-
cago for information given.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I. — Westward Ho! — Scenes and Incidents en
route to Chicago over the Picturesque Baltimore and
Ohio Railroad 1 1

CHAPTER II. — With the Star of Empire — Westward from
Chicago to Omaha over the Great Chicago and North-
Western Railroad — Scenes and Incidents along the
Route 23

CHAPTER III. — Westward from Omaha to Denver over
the Great Northern Pacific Railroad — Scenes and In-
cidents along the Route 31

CHAPTER IV. — Denver — A City of Phenomenal Growth.
Industrial Development and Commercial Activity —
Its Growth in Thirty-five Years 39

CHAPTER V. — Denver's Public Buildings — Handsome and
Costly Structures — The Elegant State Capitol — Its
History, Relics and Curios — Women Politicians 49

CHAPTER VI.— Denver's Postorfice, City Hall, Court
House, Clubs and Many other Handsome Structures
beside the State Capitol — Reminders of Home — Notes
and Incidents 60

CHAPTER VII.— Colorado— " The Switzerland of Amer-
ica " — Its Early History and Development — Its Scen-
ery Excels that of all Europe 69

8 CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER VIIL— The Sights and Scenes on the Denver
and Rio Gfande Railroad — The Famous Loop on a
Bender 73

CHAPTER IX. — Colorado Springs and Manitou — " The
Saratoga of the West "—Pike's Peak—" The Gem of
the Rockies " 91

CHAPTER X. — Colorado Scenery — Grand Caverns — Wil-
liams Canon — The Garden of the Gods — Cave of the
Winds — Glen Eyrie 115

CHAPTER XL — Denver's Oddities and Peculiarities — Some
Striking Features of the Commonplace Order 128

CHAPTER XIL— Kansas City— The Mid-Continent Me-
tropolis— Its Early History — Another City of Phe-
nomenal Growth — Its Location and Climate — A Good
Place to Live in 141

CHAPTER XIII. — Public Buildings, Fire Department, Li-
brary and Schools 160

CHAPTER XIV.— Bits of the City's Progress— Her Post-
office, Parks and the Central High School Building. .174

CHAPTER XV.— What Others Think of Us— Municipal
Headquarters — The Kansas City Jail — Other Places of
Interest 186

CHAPTER XVI. — The Armour Packing Company — The
Gateway of the Western Farmer and Stock Grower —
How the Killing is Done 196

CHAPTER XVII. — Kansas City Side-Lights and a Few
Chords of its Social Harmonies 210

CONTENTS. 9

PAGE

CHAPTER XVIII.—" Armour Rose " Sells for $2,500— The
Famous Kansas City Stock-yards, a Sight Worth
Seeing — From Kansas City to Omaha over the Bur-
lington Route — Omaha, the Scene of the Great West-
ern Exposition 214

CHAPTER XIX.— The Omaha Exposition— Its Beauties
Dissolved Forever — The Last Great Educational and
Amusement Enterprise of the Century 222

CHAPTER XX. — From Omaha to Chicago — A Woman's
Heroism — Incidents on the Chicago and North- West-
ern Railroad — Riding in a Mail Car 243

CHAPTER XXI.— Chicago Sky-scrapers— The City has a
Rival— Relics of Withered Glory— The World's Fair
Grounds— The New Public Library 248

CHAPTER XXII.— Milwaukee, The City of Breweries-
Chicago's Sabbath Breaking— The Zoo — Buildings
Moved from Place to Place 252

CHAPTER XXIIL— Police, All Foreigners— Fine Stores—
The Rookery Building — Moving Day — A City of
Magnificent Distances 257

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of Mrs. Emma Abbott Gage frontispiece

"Horse and Foot through Fredericktown " page 14

Picturesque Point of Rocks, Md " 16

The B. & O. R. R. & Chesapeake & Ohio Canal " 18

Harper's Ferry " 20

" All Quiet Along the Potomac " " 22

Fox River, Geneva, Illinois " 26

Mississippi Valley near Clinton, Iowa " 26

The Narrows, Cedar Rapids, Iowa " 32

Union Pacific Bridge across Missouri River at Omaha " 32

Cliff-Dwellers, Mancos Canon " 69

Tunnel No. 3 " 70

Ophir Loop " 74

Approach to the Black Canon " 76

Marshall Pass, Western Slope " 78

Currecanti Needle " 80

Chipeta Falls, in the Black Canon " 82

Royal Gorge " 84

Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado " 86

Fremont Pass — Headwaters of the Arkansas " 88

Seven Falls in Cheyenne Canon " 96

Bird's-Eye View of Manitou " 98

Ascent of Pike's Peak " 100

The Mountain-Climber " 104

Mrs. Riley Picknicking in the Rockies " 104

Pike's Peak from the Garden of the Gods " 112

Kansas City Convention Hall " 164

Burlington Route's new Station at Omaha " 220

Burlington Route Exhibit at Omaha Exposition " 232

Iowa River, near Tama, Iowa " 244

Iowa Farm Scene " 244

Near Loveland, Iowa " 246

Glen Ellyn, Illinois " 246

WESTERN WANDERINGS.

CHAPTER I.

WESTWARD HO!

SCENES AND INCIDENTS EN ROUTE TO CHICAGO OVER

THE PICTURESQUE BALTIMORE AND

OHIO RAILROAD.

Having been born one of those questioning, in-
quiring creatures, with an interrogation point be-
hind us, and having grown up with the desire to
follow Horace Greely's injunction, which para-
phrased is, " Go West, young woman, go West," it
had been the desire of our hearts since early wo-
manhood, to peer into that great western country
about which so much has been said and written.

Loving travel, and hoping some day to visit
other lands, we preferred first to learn more of our
own fair, beautiful country, " the land of the free
and the home of the brave."

To this end, on the early morning of July 31,
1899, in company with Mr. George A. Culver, cash-
ier of the Farmers' National Bank of Annapolis,

12 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

and his wife, Mrs. George A. Culver, we boarded
the Baltimore and Annapolis Short Line train for
Chicago, via Washington, over the Baltimore and
Ohio Railroad.

Although much has been said and written of the
far-famed picturesque Baltimore and Ohio Rail-
road, yet there is always something fresh and new
to tell about it when the tourist embarks on the
" Royal Blue " for a trip over the most historic and
picturesque railway in the East. There is through-
car service daily on the " New York and Chicago
Limited," trains Nos. 5 and 6, and a solid vestibuled
train with Pullman drawing-room sleeping-cars to
Chicago, and a Pullman observation-car from Bal-
timore to Pittsburgh. The car service is perfect,
the officials polite and obliging, and the appoint-
ments of the drawing-room sleeping-car unique.
Riding over a smooth and even road-bed, oiled
with crude petroleum to lay the dust — that bete
noir to the traveling public — and surrounded with
the ease and comfort of home, travel on the Balti-
more and Ohio is robbed of its unpleasant features,
and one skims through space and annihilates time,
all-forgetful of the miles that separate him from
those loved ones at home.

The observation-cars are comparatively a new
feature of the service, and seated in one of these at
the rear of the train, one has every opportunity and

EN ROUTE TO CHICAGO. 13

advantage to " view the landscape o'er," and enjoy
the points of interest and historic significance for
which the Baltimore and Ohio is famous. As many
of our readers know, part of the Baltimore and Ohio
road between Baltimore and Washington was the
first railroad built in America. From Washington to
Pittsburgh it is along the line of the old National
Road, which was laid out by George Washington in
1753. George, of hatchet fame, was at that time
civil engineer. Between Cumberland and Pitts-
burgh was the scene of the fourth and last French
and Indian War, and all along the line of the Bal-
timore and Ohio from Washington to Pittsburgh,
are historic points of interest connected with the
War of the Rebellion. Besides containing so many
points of historic interest along the route, the Bal-
timore and Ohio Railroad winds through a country
of most picturesque scenery, the beauty and mag-
nificence of which are unparalleled, and the interest
of which is continuous from start to finish.

Leaving Annapolis Junction, which is 324 miles
from Pittsburgh, the first point of interest is Col-
lege Park, where the Maryland State Agricultural
College is located. Then comes Hyattsville, or
Bladensburg, as it was called. Here there is a
ford, across which the British charged in 1814.
The line of the Baltimore and Ohio passes over the
ground where the fighting was most severe. Not

14 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

far away is the notorious dueling ground of Revo-
lutionary times. The next stop is at the city of
Washington, where, to the left of the train the
domes of the Capitol and Library Building can be
plainly seen, and on the right, Washington Monu-
ment looms up, a shining-white, glistening mass of
marble. Leaving Washington, the first stop is at
Rockville, the county seat of Montgomery county,
and one of the oldest towns in Maryland. About
20 miles from this point, the road crosses the fa-
mous Monocacy river, a branch of the Potomac.
The scenery here is very beautiful. The next point
of interest is Washington Junction, 14 miles north
of which is Frederick, of " Barbara Fritchie " fame,
and where the battle of Monocacy was fought be-
tween Generals Lew Wallace and Jubal Early.
About a mile from Washington Junction, the beau-
tiful Potomac river begins to " keep company "
with the railway, and continues in this companion-
ship for about 150 miles.

At this junction is Point of Rocks, one of the
most picturesque sections of Maryland. Here, to
the left, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal begins its
parallel course with the railway, and the elevation
to the mountain regions begins. Here, one
catches a glimpse of the beautiful Alleghanies
which, a little later, stand out in bold relief in all
their picturesque beauty and grandeur. It was at

" HORSE AND FOOT THROUGH FREDERICKTOWN." BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD.

EN ROUTE TO CHICAGO. 15

this point that both of the armies during the Civil
War crossed and recrossed the Potomac, and here
many skirmishes occurred. The next point of in-
terest is at Brunswick, where General Meade's
army recrossed the Potomac on its return from the
battle of Gettysburg to Washington. After a ride
of three miles, Weverton is reached. Here it was
that General Burnside with his command, crossed
the railroad en route to Washington from the bat-
tle of Antietam. Words cannot describe the pic-
turesque beauty of America's most historic spot,
Harper's Ferry, West Virginia, which is 95 miles
from Baltimore and 247 miles from Pittsburgh.
The Baltimore and Ohio has recently straightened
its route considerably, besides lessening the dis-
tance by cutting tunnels through the mountains.
Approaching Harper's Ferry from the east, the
train passes through one of these recently-cut tun-
nels through the base of Maryland Heights. Here,
the new steel bridge over the Potomac is crossed,
and a stop is made at the station, where there is a
monument to John Brown. To the left is the
Shenandoah river, another branch of the Potomac.
Across the Shenandoah river can be seen the big
mountain known as Loudon Heights, on the Vir-
ginia side, and back of the town to the west is Boli-
var Heights. Back of a little Catholic church on
the hill is Jefferson's Rock, where one of the grand-

1 6 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

est views of the mountain, river and valley can be
obtained. This is so named because Thomas Jef-
ferson said the view from here was "-worthy a trip
across the Atlantic."

It was at Harper's Ferry that the strife leading to
the Civil War had its birth, and here it was that
John Brown, of Ossawatomie fame, with his little
band of brave but fanatic followers, shed the first
blood. The monument to him, referred to pre-
viously, is a simple shaft, and stands on the spot
where his improvised " fort " stood forty years ago.
Alongside the monument are government tablets,
on which the story of the invasion of Harper's
Ferry is emblazoned. Below the present railway
track, and to the right, along the Potomac, can be
seen the old foundation, all that is left of the United
States arsenal once located here.

After passing Shenandoah Junction, where many
skirmishes of the Civil War took place, Duffields,
West Virginia, is reached. Here, General Drake,
of Revolutionary fame, is buried a short distance
from the station. Next along the route is Kear-
neysville, famous during the Revolutionary War.
Here are still standing the homes of Generals Gates
and Charles Lee, of Revolutionary fame. General
Robert E. Lee passed through this place on his way
to Antietam. The historic city of Martinsburg,
which played an important part in the Civil War,

EN ROUTE TO CHICAGO. I/

is the next point of interest en route. It was here
that wholesale destruction of railroad property of
the Baltimore and Ohio by Stonewall Jackson took
place. His army carried away eight Baltimore and
Ohio engines, hauling them by men and horses 30
miles, to be placed on southern roads and used by
his army.

In passing, one catches a sight of North Moun-
tain, where the battle of that name between General
Averill's and General Lee's forces took place.

Sir John's Run, West Virginia, is a town founded
long before the Revolution and so named because
it was once the headquarters of Sir John Sinclair,
who was General Braddock's quartermaster. This
place is famous for having been the scene of the
building of the first steamboat that was run on the
Potomac, of which Ramsay was the builder. Pass-
ing several points of more or less historic interest,
Cumberland, the Queen City of Maryland, 1,000
feet above sea-level, is reached. Here, at Fort
Cumberland, General Braddock and General
George Washington made their headquarters dur-
ing the French and Indian War, on a bluff at the
junction of Wills creek with the Potomac river.
On this site an Episcopal church now stands.
Leaving Cumberland, the railway winds along
Wills creek, which flows through a natural pass in
Wills Mountain, called The Narrows, on either side

?8 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

of which the mountain sides are steep and precipi-
tous. In the "Virginians," Thackeray describes
Wills creek and the two ranges of the Laurel Hills
and the Alleghanies. At the entrance of the gorge,
and to the left is the National Bridge, a great stone
structure, built by the government during the
" twenties," through the influence of Henry Clay
and other western statesmen interested in public
improvement. The bed of the railroad here had to
be cut through solid rock in many places.

Going west, Bear's Heights is on the right and
Mount Nebo on the left, and flowing between these
is Wills creek. This, and Wills Mountain, take
their name from an old Suwanee Chief, Will. One
side of Bear's Heights is almost perpendicular, and
to this has been ascribed the name Lover's Leap,
to which is attached a legend that an Indian maiden
cast herself from its summit to the rocks below in
her grief at her lover's death. Two miles west of
this, and to the right, is to be seen Devil's Back-
bone, a narrow ledge of rock imbedded in the
mountain, the peculiar shape of which accounts for
the name. West of Cumberland, the Baltimore and
Ohio is along the route originally selected by
George Washington as the best avenue for com-
merce to Pittsburgh, and is said to have been
founded in 1753. At Bowman, Pennsylvania, is
the famous horse-shoe curve, the heel prints of
which are not more than 200 yards apart.

THE BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD AND CHESAPEAKE & OHIO CANAL.

EN ROUTE TO CHICAGO. 19

Passing on, and 225 miles from Baltimore, the
road reaches an elevation of 2,286 feet. Here is
located Sand Patch, so named because in the early
part of this century two brothers quarreled here,
one fatally shooting the other. The tragedy oc-
curred near a large deposit of sand, and was re-
ferred to by witnesses throughout the trial as " sand
patch." Here it is that the railroad attains the
greatest altitude on this division, the summit of the
mountain over the tunnel being 2,467 feet above
tidewater. Passing on over a distance of between
40 and 50 miles, and through cities and towns of
more or less historic interest, a stop is made at
Ohio Pyle, Pennsylvania, on the Youghiogheny
river.

Here, the wild and mountainous scenery is in-
deed beautiful, and one cannot but admire nature's
magnificent handiwork while one looks " through
nature up to nature's God." The Youghiogheny
river, which is now shortened into Yough, is so
called from a legend which says a fight once oc-
curred here between an Irishman and an Indian.
The Irishman had agreed that the Indian should
cry out " enough " when the pugilist of Erin had
exercised the " manly art " on his nibs to the extent
of human endurance. The Indian forgot the word
" enough," or else could not pronounce it, and kept
on crying out " Yough ! Yough ! " The Irishman

2O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

became incensed, and told the Indian if he cried out
"" yough " again he would kill him, hence the name
"" Youghiogheny."

Three miles from here is Fort Necessity, where
the American troops surrendered to the French,
July 4th, 1754. At Connelsville, Pennsylvania, is
located the greatest coke region of the world. Here
are to be seen coke ovens on both sides of the rail-
way, with flames shooting out from them and light-
ing the vicinity like so many blazing torches in line
with the procession. At the confluence of the
Youghiogheny and the Monongahela rivers is lo-
cated McKeesport, Pennsylvania, an important
manufacturing centre, where are situated the
largest tube works in the world. Beside these, are
the Bessemer Steel Works and Armor Piercing
Projectile Works.

Braddock, Pennsylvania, is the next point of in-
terest, named after General Braddock, who was
killed here in the French and Indian War, after the
fatal sixty days' march. His grave is near the old
National Road. Near this place are the Edgar
Thompson Rail Mills and the Carnegie Steel Com-
pany's Works. Pittsburgh is now reached, which
town was founded by George Washington in 1753.
It was captured by the French and called Fort Du-
quesne, recaptured by the British and called Fort
Pitt, after the distinguished statesman. It was after-

EN ROUTE TO CHICAGO. 21

wards called Pittsburgh, and is the centre of the
greatest iron industries of the United States. At
this point, night comes on. The train arrives at
7.20 p. m. and leaves at 6.35 ditto — verifying Mark
Twain's version of the usefulness of railroad time-
tables, that one leaves a place an hour before arriv-
ing there. At Pittsburgh, therefore, everybody
sets his watch back an hour, from eastern to central
time. The observation-car was here taken off, as
nightfall prohibited its use, and reading was resort-
ed to in the Pullman until the hour of making up
the sections in the sleeper rolled around. Soon all
had turned in, and sepulchral silence reigned over
all save for the whistle of the engine ever and anon,
or the snore of the fellow in the adjoining section,
which was a gentle reminder of things ethereal even
on a fast-flying Royal Blue. The sunrise re-
vealed a striking contrast with the undulating,
mountainous scenery of the previous day, for now
the land, broad and flat, stretched far out, without
a semblance of a hill to be seen anywhere as far as
the eye .could reach. Little of interest is to be seen
until South Chicago is reached at 8 a. m., and an
hour later, No. 5 lightens its burden of living
freight at Grand Central Station, Chicago.

This is one of the handsomest stations in the
country. Its interior is of massive marble columns
supporting the graceful arches of Mosaic work, and

22 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

resting on a handsome floor of tiling, kept scrupu-
lously clean — a matter to be wondered at in dirty,
muddy Chicago. The trip is made on time, with-
out a jar or a mishap, and one arrives in the
World's Fair city as refreshed and ambitious as
though he had only " stepped " to Baltimore in-
stead of to Lake Michigan. So easy is the road-
bed of the Baltimore and Ohio, so complete the
service, so elegant the appointments which sur-
round the traveler with all the comforts of home,
that the Royal Blue may truly be said to be the
finest train-system in the East.

At Chicago, we parted company with our de-
lightful traveling companions, Mr. and Mrs. Cul-
ver. They continued the journey to their object-
ive point, Fargo, North Dakota, by a different
route from that which we had chosen to Denv.v.
At Fargo, the Culvers were to be the guests of Mr.
and Mrs. Edwin F. Ladd, of the North Dakota
Agricultural College, relatives whom they had not
seen for years.

It was not without regret that we came to the
" parting of the ways," and good-byes were said,
and the remainder of the trip westward made alone.

ALL QUIET ALONG THE POTOMAC." BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD.

CHAPTER II.

WITH THE STAR OF EMPIRE.

WESTWARD FROM CHICAGO TO OMAHA OVER THE GREAT

CHICAGO AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILROAD —

SCENES AND INCIDENTS ALONG

THE ROUTE.

Vacation days, looked forward to with eager an-
ticipation and enjoyed with keen relish, are ended
for the average bread-winner, when for some they
are just about to begin. It would not do for all
to take vacation at once, there would be nobody
at home to sew on Johnnie's buttons, or darn Su-
sie's stockings, or make the baby a frock. So off
we go in sections; and some of us are pleased at be-
ing in the tail end of the procession, and not with
the hilarious band-wagon that went along in the
burden and the heat of the mid-summer day.

You dropped us — or we dropped ourselves — in
the foregoing chapter, at Chicago, the bustling,
hustling World's Fair city, adjacent to which Dame
Nature has scattered her gifts in such prodigal pro-
fusion, especially along the line of the famous Chi-
cago and North-Western Railway. Arriving at

24 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Chicago via the Baltimore and Ohio, en route for
Denver, one proceeds to the station of the Chicago
and North-Western, the pioneer line west and
northwest of Chicago. Here, one finds the most
urbane officials, ready and willing to give all infor-
mation desired.

To facilitate matters, a corps of uniformed at-
tendants has been provided at the Chicago Pas-
senger Station of the North-Western line, to render
both incoming and outgoing passengers all neces-
sary assistance. These attendants wear blue uni-
forms and bright red caps, and one or more of them
is to be found on the platform at the arrival of
each train, to assist persons in feeble health, help
with hand-baggage, and direct the way to street-
cars, cabs, omnibuses or coupes. Their service is
entirely free, and no " tips " are necessary. We re-
ceived the most polite attention from one of these
attendants, or " ushers " as they are called, and on
inquiry found him to be Frederick G. Follett, usher
No. 4, whose polite service won favor with us, and
was a drawing card for the road.

Most Colorado passengers leave Chicago on the
" Colorado Special " at 10 a. m., which arrives in
Denver at 2.55 p. m., next day. This train
has through drawing-room, buffet-, smoking- and
library-cars, also free reclining-chair-cars to Den-
ver, with dining-cars, meals a la carte. There is

FROM CHICAGO TO OMAHA. 25

everything provided that makes traveling easy and
comfortable on the trains of the Chicago and
North- Western, which is a standard of excellence
in railway construction, operation and equipment.
The service is the best, and is thoroughly appre-
ciated by the average tourist. The Chicago and
North-Western Railway is the greatest railroad
system of the West, reaching with its 7,997 miles
of road (including 175 miles of side-track in Chi-
cago), and by traffic arrangements with other rail-
ways, 7,350 stations located on 41,000 miles of rail-
road.

This is one-ninth of the entire railroad mileage of
the world, and one-fourth of the railroad mileage
of the United States. The Chicago and North-
Western has along its line more manufactories than
any other western railroad, and it offers large in-
ducements; and, with its eye ever open to progress,
it invites eastern manufacturers contemplating
moving, or establishing branch manufactories in
the West, to ascertain the advantages to be gained
along its route before locating elsewhere. Push,
progress, persistence and pre-established success
are synonymous with the Chicago and North-Wes-
tern. It reaches, with its own rails, the famous
water-powers, iron-ore ranges, coal-fields, hard-
and soft-lumber districts located in northern Illi-
nois, Wisconsin, Michigan, Minnesota, Iowa and

26 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

South Dakota. As the present road stands, it is
the result of a series of consolidations and numer-
ous constructions under various corporate names
and during a series of years. The earliest-built
portion of the road was incorporated in the State
of Illinois in 1836, and was constructed from Chi-
cago to Galena.

The Galena and Chicago Union Railroad Com-
pany was incorporated, January i6th, 1836, and
was provided with a " saving clause " in its charter,
whereby the contemplated road might be made a
" good turnpike " instead of a railroad. Whether
hesitating over which it should be, or simply wait-
ing for the " Star of Empire," it exhibited no es-
pecial vitality for some time; and ten years after its
organization, found the directors of the company
seriously discussing the policy of turning their at-
tention backward from the wilds of Illinois, and
first building their road eastward to meet the Mich-
igan Central Railroad, which was then halting at
New Buffalo, Indiana. They, however, did decide
to venture westward, and the first ten miles of road,
Chicago to Harlem, was completed, December
3Oth, 1848. At this time, the superior advantages
of " T-rail " became apparent, and the " strap-rail "
with which the road had been laid, was taken up,
and the iron " T-rail " put down. This again, with
the further march of improvement, has given place

FOX RIVER, GENEVA, ILLINOIS.

MISSISSIPPI VALLEY, NEAR CLINTON, IOWA.

FROM CHICAGO TO OMAHA. 2J

to the eighty-pound-per-yard steel rail, with which
the line is now laid. The history of the road is
replete with interest, and its success has been phe-
nomenal. It has well won its claim to the title of
" Greatest Railroad System of the West."

In passing it will not be amiss to mention that
the Chicago and North- Western Railway is cele-
brated for the numerous charming resorts on its
lines. Among these are the lakes and woodlands
of northern Wisconsin and Michigan, which offer
a paradise to the exponent and lover of the rod and
gun.

There is a multitude of these lakes, named and
unnamed, but one delightful resort, which has
grown in popularity with victims of hay-fever, asth-
ma, throat and lung troubles, is Gogebic Lake, situ-
ated in a romantic forest which extends over nor-
thern Wisconsin and the upper peninsula of Mich-
igan. It is highly recommended by physicians,
and attracts thousands to its shores. It has an un-
varying temperature of 42 degrees, and one of its
attractions is an artesian well, flowing 2,500 gal-
lons per hour of the purest and most refreshing
water. It is 1,400 feet above ocean-level and 900
feet above Lake Superior.

But this is a little off our line of travel, and we
must confine ourselves to straight roads with no
side-tracks. Leaving Chicago, there are 23 sta-

28 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

tions before reaching the Union Pacific Transfer
and arriving at Omaha. The scenery is more or
less picturesque along the route, and there are mul-
titudes of points of interest. We shall only at-
tempt to mention some of them. We passed Ge-
neva, DeKalb, Rochelle, Clinton, DeWitt, Cedar
Rapids and Marshalltown. Here, a number of
passengers left the train, among them a lady from
Hagerstown, on a visit to relatives, whom she had
not seen for many years. Leaving Marshalltown
we arrived at Nevada, then Ames. Here, a num-
ber of students, on their way to college, left the
train. At Ames, Iowa, is located the Iowa State
College, a co-educational institution. The presi-
dent is Prof. Byer, a graduate of Johns Hopkins
University, Baltimore.

The college is a handsome building, with spa-
cious grounds. Several elegant residences are
erected on the campus; in one of these resides Sec-
retary Wilson and his charming family. The sec-
retary is instructor of agriculture at the college.
It seemed odd to see the students entering college
for another term in the month of August. On in-
quiry of one of them, an exceedingly clever young
girl, we were informed that the vacation in Iowa
was in winter, not in summer. Leaving Ames, the
next stop is at Boones. Here, all passengers were
on the qui vive for a wreck that had occurred the

FROM CHICAGO TO OMAHA. 29

day previous, and in which the engineer and fire-
man were killed. At this point in the road there is
a short curve, and it was said the train East-bound
jumped the track, the engine falling over the em-
bankment and derailing the coaches. There they
lay, a twisted mass of wood and iron, a gruesome re-
minder of the accident of a few hours previous. We
were told that Kate Shelly, of whom we are about
to speak, made herself useful on this occasion, as
well as on one other, and was at the scene of the
accident with bandages, her camphor and whiskey
bottle, administering to the wounded and dying.

Leaving Boones about 10 miles away, we cross-
ed the bridge which Kate Shelly has made famous
by her heroism, and which is now called " Kate
Shelly's Bridge." Here, some years ago, the afore-
said Kate Shelly crawled on her hands and knees,
waving a lantern, to warn a coming train of danger,
thus saving hundreds of lives from a horrible death.
Kate lives in a humble little cottage that can be
seen from the bridge. At Jefferson, darkness be-
gins to close in upon us, and we go whizzing along
— passing Carroll, Denton and Missouri Valley, un-
til Council Bluffs is reached at 11.20 p. m. The
Union Pacific Transfer station is made at 11.30 and
we cross the bridge to Omaha, the terminus of the
Chicago and North- Western, a road over which we
traveled with much comfort, pleasure and interest;

30 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

and the complete service, polite officials and unique
appointments of which commend themselves to the
tourist. On we go, westward with the " Star of
Empire." A little more than a baker's dozen of
hours before, we had been in the midst of the smoke
and noise of bustling, busy Chicago, and now, we
were on the borderland of that great plain that
stretches away to Granite Canon, and the summit
of the Rockies. Truly steam annihilates space ; and
man's skill and ingenuity overcomes difficulties.

CHAPTER III.

WESTWARD FROM OMAHA TO DENVER OVER THE GREAT

NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD SCENES AND

INCIDENTS ALONG THE ROUTE.

At Omaha, we were 569 miles from Denver. We
are now traveling on the Union Pacific, one of the
finest equipped roads in the country. It is nearly
midnight and we are about to turn in and enjoy
one of the new sleepers of the Union Pacific's
railroad palaces, which were specially built for the
company, and recently put into service on their
famous fast trains.

These veritable railroad palaces are broad, vesti-
buled, twelve-section, drawing-room, smoking-
room cars, heavily draped in silk, with seats of em-
bossed silk-plush, and wood-work decorated in the
most unique and artistic style. The berths are four
inches wider than usual, thus adding to the comfort
of the traveler. In the ladies' dressing-room on
these cars, an innovation in the form of an empire
dresser, with heavy plate mirrors, is an added feat-
ure. In the Union Pacific trains the arrangement
of the gas lamps is also unique. These are set in

32 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

recesses, giving a much softer tone of illumination
than otherwise.

On inquiry, we find that the first settlement was
made at Omaha in 1854, and that it was named
from the Omaha Indians who then possessed the
country. In its embryo, Omaha was a mud-hole;
to-day, it is one of the finest paved cities in the
West. Its population is about 140,500, and in
1880, it had a population of only 30,000. The Un-
ion Pacific Railroad has a handsome bridge con-
necting Omaha, Nebraska, with Council Bluffs,
Iowa. This bridge is 1,750 feet long and 70 feet
above the water, and is the only double-track steel
bridge over the Missouri. It provides for the great
transcontinental traffic from the Atlantic to the
Pacific coasts. The exposition was still in progress
at Omaha, and the attendance had been good. It
was expected to close in November, and had been
very successful throughout. A large number of
visitors to the exposition left the train at Omaha,
and others who had been " doing it," boarded the
train " for green fields and pastures new."

Four miles from Omaha to the south, is South
Omaha. It has been dubbed the "Magic City,"
and is connected by railroad and street-railway with
Omaha. It was once a suburb of that city, and
its rise in comparatively a few years to the third
greatest live-stock market, and meat-packing cen-

THE NARROWS, CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA.

UNION PACIFIC BRIDGE ACROSS MISSOURI RIVER AT OMAHA.

FROM OMAHA TO DENVER. 33

tre, is phenomenal. About 40 miles further on, we
reach Fremont, which is situated in the midst of
the richest and most productive portion of the
Platte Valley. At this point the valley stretches
away in all directions as far as the eye can reach.
Another 30 miles, and Schuyler is reached. It is
the seat of Colfax county, and is a growing and en-
terprising town. Schuyler does a large business
in wheat shipments. We are still in Nebraska; and
about 1 8 miles from Schuyler we reach Columbus,
which, in 1864, was the frontier town of the State.
At this time there were few settlers in Nebraska be-
yond the town of Columbus. To-day it has a
population of 4,150. In the " sixties," Mr. George
Train called Columbus the geographical centre of
the United States, and advocated the removal of
the National Capital to this place.

Proceeding on our westward course, 40 miles
further on, a stop is made at Central City, the
county seat of Merrick county. It is located in
the southern part of the county, and is its business
centre, commanding as it does, a good trade.
Grand Island, Nebraska, is the next stop. It has
a population of 9,000 and is a large and important
business place and railroad-junction. Several
hundred men are employed at the Union Pacific
machine- and repair-shops, which are located there.
The station was named Grand Island, from an

34 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

island in the Platte river, two miles from this point.
The island, which is 30 miles long and 4 miles wide,
is the largest in the river. South of the ridge, sepa-
rating the valley from the Platte and Wood rivers,
Kearney is located. Situated as it is, Kearney af-
fords the natural opportunity for the establishment
of three artificial lakes, giving an immense water-
power, the capacity of which is scarcely disturbed
by the various manufacturing plants now operated
by it. Another stop is made at Lexington, Ne-
braska, which is the centre of a rich agricultural and
fertile district. About 60 miles west of this point,
we reach North Platte, Nebraska, arriving here at
half-past seven in the morning by central time, and
leaving (a la Mark Twain, " before we got there ")
at 6.30 a. m., mountain-time. Here we set our
watches back an hour, and now we are two hours
slower than when we left Annapolis. We had for-
gotten all about the change of time from central to
mountain, and in consequence arose an hour earlier
than we otherwise should, fearing the porter had
neglected to call us in time for the " last call for
breakfast." The change in time corresponding to
change in longitude, is to some, quite puzzling,
and is the occasion for ludicrous incidents, often-
times. North Platte, where the time changes from
central to mountain, is the headquarters of the
largest live-stock interests in the State of Nebraska
— horses, cattle and sheep.

FROM OMAHA TO DENVER. 35

At last we are out of Nebraska, and the first stop
made in Colorado (the State the name of which is
of Spanish origin, and means red or colored, and
is so called because of the ruddy-colored sand-
stone prevalent throughout its borders) is at Jules-
burg, 197 miles from the city of Denver.

Julesburg has about 600 inhabitants, and is
named for one, Jules Burg, who was a resident of
the town in 1 860-61. He was a desperado, and is
said to have " died with his boots on." At Jules-
burg, the train stopped for quite a little while, and
a number of the tourists got off and enjoyed the
famous Colorado morning air and sunshine. We
were very much amused at a large placard posted
in the telegraph office at the station. Emblazoned
in large type was the following startling advertise-
ment, " Wanted — A Bride and Groom."

At first, we were puzzled to know if weddings are
such an unknown quantity in this State that the
exponents must needs be advertised for. On in-
quiry, however, we were informed there was to be
a carnival, at which the drawing card would be
several weddings of those who were willing to be
" tied up " publicly in odd and grotesque costumes.
As an incentive to help advertise King Carnival, the
brides were to be given handsome presents. One
of these carnivals occurred during our sojourn in
the West, at which one of the grooms was a phy-

36 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

sician and he and his bride were married in Indian
costume.

Another station of importance in Colorado, is
La Salle. It is 46 miles from Denver, and is a junc-
tion for the Union Pacific and Denver Short Line
Branch for Julesburg. Crossing the prairies, there
were many things that attracted our notice. Chief
among these was the fact that no matter how small
a town or a burg, the village or hamlet, if only a
dozen houses, there was always a school. The
people in the west believe in education, and their
schools are monuments to that belief. They are
no shoddy affairs either; they are modern buildings,
well painted, with good play-grounds, and attrac-
tive surroundings. We were commenting upon the
numerous schools in the small towns en route, when
we were told that Colorado has more school-ground
for its size than any State in the Union; but of this
we shall speak later.

The little, chubby prairie-dogs were objects of
interest to the tourist. For miles along the rail-
road were to be seen their mud- and sand-houses.
These dogs are curious little creatures, and, at a
distance, do not look unlike the chipmunk. They
are agile and playful, jumping and running about
in apparent great glee. Here and there, whole
families and villages of these prairie-dogs were to
be seen, when occasionally there would be but one

FROM OMAHA TO DENVER. 37

or two, perhaps the more seclusive and aristocratic
of the settlement, whose clannishness forbade them
from mingling with the common herd. We no-
ticed a number of ranches as we neared Denver,
and camping-out parties were not infrequent along
the route after Colorado was reached. Some In-
dians in their native costume were to be seen at the
stations, and one little fellow in our car called to
his mama to come to the window and look at " a
real live Indian."

After a most delightful and thoroughly comfort-
able ride of 569 miles from Omaha, and 1,062 miles
from Chicago, Denver is reached at 2.55 p. m. the
next day. The officials of the Union Pacific spare
no pains in administering to the comfort of those
traveling over their road; and one meets with the
most polite service at the hands of the employees,
from conductor to porter, all of whom are ever
ready to give desired information, or assist the in-
quisitive tourist, who is "taking notes" en route.
Union Depot is the one depot in Denver, and is a
very handsome and imposing structure of granite.
When one alights from the train here, he finds him-
self puffing like a locomotive, and at first cannot ac-
count for his short windedness. When he stops to
think, however, that he is at an altitude of 5,170
feet, he begins to take in the situation, and endeav-
ors to grow accustomed to the air breathed at this

38 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

height. Of Denver, we shall speak again; suffice
it to say just here, it is a city of phenomenal growth
and has now a population of 165,000.

From Denver, the Alpine view of the great
Rocky Mountain chain, extending north and south
for 200 miles, with Long's Peak to the north, Pike's
Peak to the south, and the dome of the continent,
Gray's Peak, in the centre, is indeed most exquisite.
Supplement this picture with the beautiful buttes,
foothills and the rolling prairies, 600 miles wide to
the eastward, and the magnificent landscape is
complete in all its grandeur and picturesqueness.
At Denver, one is about two-thirds the distance
across the continent — a long way from home — and
the trip has been made without accident or mishap
of any kind, save an occasional wash out along the
road here and there (it was Monday, wash day, you
know). With the greatest ease and comfort that
modern travel affords, we made the trip, glad to
reach Denver, "The Queen City of the Plains,"
which, viewed from the health-seeker's standpoint,
is his Mecca, and the atmosphere of which is the
healing fount that has returned hundreds of his
kind to life and full vitality.

CHAPTER IV.

DENVER A CITY OF PHENOMENAL GROWTH. INDUS-
TRIAL DEVELOPMENT AND COMMERCIAL ACTIVITY
ITS GROWTH IN THIRTY-FIVE YEARS.

There is so much to be said of Denver, " The
Queen City of the Plains," one hesitates where to
begin. Thirty-five years ago but a prairie-village,
to-day Denver numbers 165,000 inhabitants, and is
noted far and near for her commercial activity and
beauty as a resident city.

Denver can boast of no antiquity beyond Sep-
tember and October, 1859, and her growth since
that time has been phenomenal. When we think
of our old Maryland and Virginia towns that date
their nativity a century or more ago, and have made
little progress since, we blush for their apathy and
self-satisfied condition when we behold active, pro-
gressive, hustling, bustling Denver, a mere youth
in number of years.

Of all western cities, it is the only one that bids
fair to wrest from San Francisco her commercial
supremacy. Although a mere insignificant trad-
ing-post long after San Francisco had become a

4O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

thriving and popular seaport, the relative progress
of Colorado's metropolis has been more than on a
par with that of the city of the Golden Gate. In
1859, Denver consisted merely of a few one-story
dwellings, mud-roofed and built of cottonwood
logs, fringing the bank of Cherry creek near its out-
let into the Platte.

There was not a pound of nails in the entire set-
tlement, and there were not a half-dozen panes of
glass. In the summer months, the floors were of
earth, in the winter, of mud, the roofs retaining so
much water that the saying was, " it rained inside
for days after it had stopped on the outside." To-
day, Denver is the commercial and industrial centre
of one of the wealthiest States in the Union, and is
an important railroad-centre, with numerous over-
land-lines passing through its suburbs, and with
branches extending to all the principal agricultural
and mining districts. Denver is situated in the val-
ley of the South Platte, 12 miles from the foothills
of the Rocky Mountains. The writer smiles when
she writes " foothills," for coming from the East,
and when first beholding these " foothills," she ex-
claimed of their beauty as mountains, and was some-
what abashed when informed " these are not moun-
tains, they're only foothills."

We said, "then commend us to some of your
mountains," and of these grand, glorious and sub-

DENVER S GROWTH. 41

lime towers of thousands of feet of rock, we shall
speak further on. But, not to digress, the site
of the city of Denver is neither level nor hilly,
but pleasantly diversified with rolling and un-
dulating surface. The distance from the moun-
tains is sufficient to give a fine view of the range,
and to make a magnificent landscape without paral-
lel. The range is seen to best advantage from Old
City Cemetery, east of Capitol Hill, the highest ele-
vation in the immediate vicinity of the city, at the
end of Eleventh avenue. Bayard Taylor said, when
visiting Denver in 1866, that from this hill could be
had one of the finest mountain-views in the world.
The range is visible for 200 miles. Pike's Peak, 70
miles to the south, when the air is clear, seems
hardly half so far, and Long's Peak, nearly as far
to the northwest, appears at times but a brief walk
distant. The Laramie Hills, in Wyoming, termi-
nate the panorama at the north, while Mount Ev-
ans, with its sweeping slope, and lap of snow and
ice, lifted to a height of 13,132 feet, is the chief sen-
tinel in the western sky. The mountains, as seen
from Denver, are a lasting source of pleasure, and
their study, one of increasing interest.

The play of cloud and sunshine, of light and
shade, during the varying hours of day, and change
of seasons, gives the beholder the most enchanting
visions of distant scenery. They can never be de-

42 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

scribed; only observation and study can bring to
the eye and soul, the wonderful transformation of
this mountain range. We have been told, to see
the " Rockies " well is to see them all the year
round. One must watch their velvety green slopes
in June, and their many-colored tints in October;
the bare peaks of August and the snowy range of
January. The mountains must be seen in the
morning and studied at sunset; one must watch
them in summer, and observe them in winter.
They are scarcely ever twice the same in appear-
ance. There is a subtle charm about the city of
Denver for the eastern tourist. One comes here
to stay a few weeks, but puts off his return from
time to time until he finds the weeks are months,
and in some cases the months are years. This is
particularly true of the young man from the East,
who delays and spends his money in mining or in
ranching. The spell is upon him, the charm stops
him half way; he puts off his return East until next
year, then the next, until at last he buys a home,
and only returns East for the bride and his wed-
ding-journey.

Denver appeals to the man from the East more
than any other western city, for the reason that the
eastern folk who have settled here are turning Den-
ver into a thoroughly eastern city. We expected
to find the people and their customs so different

DENVER'S GROWTH. 43

from those at home. How mistaken we were ! The
same hospitable, congenial folk we have in Mary-
land live here in Denver.

They look and act the same; their style of dress
is the same. What queer notions one does get of
the " wild and woolly West," before one actually
comes in contact with it and its people! To
us, the most striking things about the city of
Denver are its schools and its residences. In east-
ern cities, great corporations, insurance companies
and capitalists erect 10- and 1 2-story sky-scrapers in
every direction, and the private houses tower toward
the sky, with the reminder that it costs nothing to
build into the air. Here, in Denver, it is so differ-
ent ! There are not only big and handsome build-
ings— the Mining Exchange, the Chamber of Com-
merce, Brown Palace Hotel, Denver Athletic Club,
City Hall, Court House, Equitable Building,
McMurtrie Block, Union Depot, State Capitol, Ma-
sonic Temple, Kittredge Building, and hosts of
others — but there are miles and miles of separate
houses of the prettiest architecture.

It is such a pleasure to look at them, no two join-
ed as in the monotonous-looking Baltimore blocks.
They are not merged together in solid rows, but
stand apart with a little green breathing space be-
tween them, each in its turn asserting its own indi-
viduality. You look at them, admire and are

44 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

pleased, and it is difficult to decide which one you
would rather live in. The greater number of these
beautiful houses are built of a peculiarly handsome
red stone, which is found so plentifully in the Silver
State. It is not the red stone that one admires, or
which makes the homes so pleasantly conspicuous,
but the taste of the owner or the architect, which
has turned it to account. It would not be amiss for
the eastern architect to come to Denver and take
lessons; and certainly it would be wise if some of
our eastern cities would adopt this " parking "
system, of grass-plot and lawn about their homes,
that adds to the beauty, attractiveness and home-
like appearance of all the private houses in beauti-
ful Denver, " Queen City of the Plains."

But what of the public schools? They are more
like museums of art than school-houses. We found
ourselves asking what these handsome buildings
are, scattered every few blocks over Denver.
Imagine our surprise when told they are schools.
"Schools!!" we exclaimed, "these massive build-
ings of stone, granite, red brick, with marble trim-
mings, of graceful architecture, unique designs,
broad, velvety lawns, with beds of flowers and
vines, shade-trees and arbors? It cannot be pos-
sible that these are schools!" But it is possible;
and just as much money and thought are propor-
tionately given to the instruction of the public-

DENVER S GROWTH. 45

school children as is put upon the school-buildings,
for the Denver children of the public schools have
every advantage. The best teachers are employed.
Their appointment is strictly on their merit, with
the most rigid of examinations annually before an
examining board. We must not forget to say their
pay is the best, for, naturally, good teachers com-
mand and demand good pay. Few teachers in
Denver receive less than $75 and $80 per month.
Superintendents receive $1,800 and $2,000 per year.
There are several eastern teachers in the Denver
schools. One lady teacher, in popular favor here,
is from the Eastern Shore of Maryland, and would
not think of wasting her time and energy in the dis-
charge of her professional duties, East, for the
meagre salary Maryland pays its teachers, when
Colorado thinks the laborer worthy of his hire.

There are 47 schools in Denver; four high
schools — the East, West, North, and South Denver
High Schools; 25 public kindergartens, and several
Normal Training schools. The schools all have
names, some of which are, The Whittier, Longfel-
low, Gilpin, Hyde Park, Ebert, Carona, Wyman,
Swansea, Columbine (after the Colorado State flow-
er), Emerson, Broadway, Maria Mitchell, Edison,
Webster, Louisa M. Alcott School, Garfield, Lin-
coln, Logan, Franklin, and many others. The teach-
ers are too numerous to count. In the East Denver

46 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

High School, alone, there are 27 teachers. When
we think of the overcrowded condition of our home
school, and the lack of sufficient teachers, and see
these schools in plenty here, with all the latest de-
vices and equipments for education, with an abun-
dance of room, and enough teachers, we commiser-
ate Annapolis, and say a la Horace Greely, " Come
West " young mother and father, with a family to
educate, " Come West." You'll not be crowded
out here, and you'll get more than your money's
worth of education, along with all the rest of the
delightful things Colorado affords. So, you see,
with all the school advantages, the children of Den-
ver threaten to grow up into a most superior class
of young persons. Denver possesses lots of other
delightful things that make a city livable, but to
us, the public schools and private houses are the
most distinctive features. There are many sights
to be seen here (of these we shall speak later), but it
is well for one to remember, while seeing these
sights, that only a little more than a generation ago
there was nothing where Denver now stands but
cactus, buffalo-grass, wild animals and the red man.
The foot of civilization had not then pressed the
arid soil, nor had the magic hand of human genius
been laid on a single thing, living or inert. In its
rapid growth, amid search for silver and gold, ad-
venture and health, the people here have taken little

DENVER S GROWTH. 47

time to create things of interest for the traveler, and
he sees nothing to astonish him more than the city
itself. That he should find, 600 miles west of the
Missouri river, beyond the " Great American Des-
ert," a city of 165,000 inhabitants, a city with 300
miles of rapid transit, a city of such beautiful homes
and public and business buildings as meet his gaze
at every turn, is sufficient to amaze the thoughtful
tourist. The work of the magician, who, by the
magic touch of his wand, causes flowers to bloom
from an empty vase before your eyes, pales before
the finer and more magical touch of civilization,
which has caused the city of Denver to spring up
out of these arid plains, with so many miles of
beautiful streets, shaded by grateful foliage lining
these sidewalks on every hand, these churches and
schools, these banks and wealthy corporations,
these palaces of business and public buildings, these
lofty theatres and commanding structures, in pro-
cess of erection. Denver, in all that it is, and all
that it promises to be, is more wonderful than
mountain or canon. These were natural ; it is pre-
ternatural. Denver's parks and gardens, while
beautiful, are yet in embryo; its public libraries and
museums are in incubation; its Sutros and Licks
and Leland Standfords and Enoch Pratts are still
busy amassing their wealth, but their latent munifi-
cence and benefactions will yet develop with a mag-

48 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

nificence so lavish as to amaze the visitor, in future
years, to this western metropolis. And this is
Denver! Forty years ago, nothing; to-day, a
model, modern city of 165,000 people. The first
10 years, a struggle for existence; the second, rec-
ognition and candidacy for future greatness. The
third decade, railroad building and marvelous in-
dustrial development. The end of the forty, proof-
positive of vital powers, unconquerable by drought,
famine or panic. The fourth decade, a period of
growth and advancement despite commercial de-
pression.

One, coming to Denver for the first time, cannot
but be impressed with the brightness and newness
of everything. Business blocks, residences, parks,
public buildings — all have a freshness that is attrac-
tive from the start. From a distance, upon the
plains, may be seen spires and domes that proclaim
Denver's architectural importance. On a near ap-
proach, factories, smelters and business blocks loom
up and speak eloquently of the beauty and commer-
cial stability of fair Denver, " Queen City of the
Plains."

CHAPTER V.

DENVER'S PUBLIC BUILDINGS — HANDSOME AND COSTLY

STRUCTURES THE ELEGANT STATE CAPITOL —

ITS HISTORY, RELICS, AND CURIOS

WOMEN POLITICIANS.

Denver has numerous handsome and costly pub-
lic buildings. Prominent among these is the State
Capitol, which occupies fifteen acres, at the brow
of Capitol Hill. The building is of Colorado gran-
ite, finished on the interior with marble trimmings.
It was begun in 1887, and was occupied for the first
time in 1895.

When completed it cost $2,550,000. The
grounds were presented to the State by Henry C.
Brown, one of Denver's pioneers. Colorado is
justly proud of her State Capitol building, since it
is constructed of her own granite (from the famous
Gunnison quarries), which is unsurpassed for
beauty and uniformity of color by any in America.
The site is most commanding, being a mile above
the sea-level, and occupying three entire squares.
The view of the city of Denver and the mountain
range, extending for 125 miles, from the dome of
4

5O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

the Capitol, is, perhaps, the grandest of anything in
the country. The building occupied six years in
construction. The architect was Mr. Meyers, of
New York, and the architecture is what is known
as composite renaissance.

It took us three hours to go through the Capitol.
The interior is not yet completed. At the last ses-
sion of the Legislature, an appropriation sufficient
for the completion of the work, was made, and
everything is expected to be intact by the next ses-
sion, 1901. The Capitol grounds are in the shape
of an oblong parallelogram, which shape has Ma-
sonic significance. The size of the building is 294.4
by 383.11 feet, and it extends 383 feet north and
south and 313 feet east and west, and is 256 feet
from basement-floor to top of the dome. There
are 160 rooms in the building. On the corner-stone
is engraved the following : " Erected by the fourth
and seventh General Assembly of the State of Colo-
rado, approved, February nth, 1883, and April ist,
1889. Board of Capitol Managers, Job A. Cooper,
Governor, John L. Routt, Otto Mears, Charles J.
Hughes, Benj. F. Crowell, E. E. Meyers, archi-
tect; Peter Gumry, superintendent." This last-
named gentleman was the owner of the hotel which
was blown up by an engine running some of the
hotel machinery when hundreds of people were
killed — a disaster not soon to be forgotten in Den-
ver.

DENVER'S PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 51

The exterior of the Capitol is not unlike the Bal-
timore postoffice, except that it is surmounted with
a dome, rather too large in circumference at the
base for the height. A statue or ornament of some
sort at the apex of the dome would greatly beautify
its appearance. The main entrance is on Broad-
way, and the approach is through beautiful
grounds, well kept, and through a gradual incline
leading to the magnificent doorway. This is sup-
ported by massive granite columns, above which is
cut in the stone an array of figures suggestive of
Colorado's advantages in the way of agriculture,
mining, and so forth. Conspicuous by its absence,
and refreshing to the eastern tourist is that bete
noir of signs " keep off the grass." No such sign
is visible; and yet, the grass is the most beautiful
stretch of lawn one ever saw anywhere, as green and
well kept as one could wish, even though the chil-
dren are allowed to play on it to their hearts' con-
tent. Colorado children, unlike their eastern cous-
ins, do not wonder if there are any signs in Heaven
" keep off the grass." At the main entrance, near
the street, is a tall flag pole, recently erected by
the Sons of the American Revolution, in honor of
the Colorado volunteers, who served their country
in the late unpleasantness with Spain. On the pole,
are brass tablets inscribed with the names of those
who died in the service, the date and place of death

52 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

of each. The idea is a happy one. Since the re-
turn of the First Colorado Volunteers, memorial
service has been held about this pole, when 5,000
people were present.

On entering the rotunda, the visitor is struck by
the unfinished condition of things. There is a
blank space of mortar at the base of all the pillars.
It is said, one reason for not completing the work
is due to a misunderstanding about the kind of ma-
terial to be used. The rotunda is very handsome,
and the marble trimmings and brass finishings have
a pleasing and artistic effect. The visitor usually
begins with the basement, and works his way to the
dome. Here, in the basement, there is so much to
be seen, one cxnild spend several days profitably
" looking round." The G. A. R. room contains
many curios of interest. Among these, at the en-
trance are two 1 2-pound Howitzers, surrendered by
Gen. Twiggs, U. S. A., to Gen. McCullough, at
San Antonio, Texas, February, 1861. These guns
were buried by Gen. Gibber at Albuquerque, New
Mexico, in April, 1862, after the defeat of the Con-
federate forces at the battle of Glaretta. They were
recovered, in 1890, and presented to the State of
Colorado, having been buried for over 30 years.
In the " War Relic " room is Kit Carson's rifle, con-
taining 36 brass nails — one for every Indian killed.
Here is also a flint-lock gun, given by France, to

DENVER S PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 53

Gen. LaFayette in 1772. There are other flint-lock
guns here, one used in the Battle of Bunker Hill,
and one in the French and Indian War, after-
ward in the Revolution. There is a sword here
captured from a British officer at the Battle of Sara-
toga, and one carried by a Continental officer dur-
ing the Revolution. In the " War Relic " room
there is also a flag taken by the South Carolina
forces at Fort Sumter, on April I4th, 1861; a war
medicine-chest that went with Sherman's army to
the sea; uniforms of men of note in those times that
tried men's souls; photographs and autographs of
Gen. R. E. Lee, and curios of all sorts and descrip-
tions which interest those who have a soft spot in
their hearts for the has beens.

Another room in the basement of the Capitol is
set apart by the Horticultural Society. Here, we
saw, in alcohol, the finest specimens of Colorado
fruits, exhibits of recent State fairs;' cereals for
which this State is noted; native bugs, butterflies,
et cetera, together with specimens of flora of Colo-
rado, the fame of which is broadcast. In this de-
partment, are to be seen two handsomely mounted
coats of arms of the State. These consist of a Ma-
sonic compass, in which the "All-Seeing Eye" is
represented. Beneath this, is a battle-axe; then, a
shield, the upper portion of which, pictures the
beautiful mountains of the State, to the base of

54 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

this are suggestively appended a pick and ham-
mer, such as are used in mining. Beneath all is the
State's motto, Nil Sine Numine (Nothing without
God), and the year Colorado, the " Centennial
State/' was admitted, 1876.

Another room of interest is the State Historical
room. This is devoted to a sort of zoological dis-
play of Colorado's native animals, handsomely
mounted. To gaze upon the number of cases of
birds, no two alike, one can scarcely realize that
these different species belong to this one State. In
an anti-room, is a primitive-looking Mexican cart,
clumsily put together, and awkward in appearance.
In this department is also to be seen one of the
handsomest of saddles, the property of Col. J. H.
Leavenworth, for whom the city of that name is
christened. He was a member of the Second Regi-
ment, Colorado Volunteers in 1862. The saddle is
of a most unique pattern, silver and gold mounted,
and is an attractive feature of this department.

There are at this season (September) thousands
of tourists in Denver, and the statement was made
in one of the morning papers, at this time, that
there were 3,000 visitors daily to the State Capitol.
Perhaps one of the most interesting departments of
the building is the Bureau of Mines. In these rooms
is displayed the wealth of Colorado's minerals,
most of the specimens having been gathered from

DENVER S PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 55

North Table Mountain and Golden. There are
also specimens from several of the counties, includ-
ing Gilpin, El Paso, Gunnison, San Juan and oth-
ers. Above the huge cases of mineral productions
from these counties are large oil-paintings, repre-
senting the wealth of vegetation and beauty, for
which each county is noted.

In the Bureau of Mines is to be seen the " Colo-
rado Mineral Casket," an exquisite piece of work-
manship of silver, gold and copper, and decorated
with Colorado gems, among which are the garnet,
topaz, turquoise, crystal and moon-stone — the
whole being illuminated with tiny incandescent
lamps. The casket was in the Woman's Building
at the World's Fair. There are two collections of
minerals, one arranged in flat cases, the other in
upright cases. Those in flat cases are arranged for
scientific purposes, and are collections made and
classified on the Diana authority on mineralogy.
In the upper cases, the ores of the various counties
are displayed. In one of these is a silver nugget
from " Mollie Gibson " mine, Aspen, Colorado,
which weighs 397 pounds and is 90 per cent pure
silver, and when coined will make 8,512 silver dol-
lars. In another department on the ground floor
of the Capitol are to be seen pictures of the " Cliff
Dwellers," models of their caves in the rocks and
cliffs, their implements of warfare, their cooking

56 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

utensils and the Cliff Dwellers themselves, pre-
served as they have been these hundreds of years —
the art of which preservation is lost; and we, of
modern times, have not succeeded in regaining it.
These mummies of the Cliff Dwellers are in a good
state of preservation, and are of men, women and
children, and even infants. The outer covering
of some of these mummies is a downy coat of feath-
ers. They were all taken from the ruins of Mancos
Canon, Colorado. After leaving the basement of
the Capitol, one takes the elevator for the main
floor. Here, are located the two Houses — the Sen-
ate and General Assembly — together with the
Court of Appeals, offices, et cetera. Both houses
are elegantly, though simply fitted out. There are
no " overdone " decorations or hangings, but
everything presents a freshly painted and attractive
appearance.

There are 65 representatives in the General As-
sembly of Colorado, and 35 Senators, making the
sum total of 100 on joint ballot. Arapahoe county,
in which Denver is located, contains one-third of
the population of the State, and therefore is en-
titled to one-third of the representatives in the
Legislature. The Legislature, like that of Mary-
land, convenes once in two years, on the 4th of
January, and until the 3rd of April, covering a
period of 90 days. The next regular session

DENVER S PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 57

meets in 1901, but the Governor has recently
called an extra session for this year (1899) to
consider some questions of State importance.
Women vote in Colorado, hold office and are
eligible to the Legislature. At the last session
there were three women delegates in the House.
There has never been a woman Senator, and in all
probability there never will be, although it is pos-
sible that some day Colorado may have a woman
for governor. The education of the western people
tends to universal suffrage, the bulk of the argu-
ment in favor of which is, that women are property-
holders, and therefore have a right to " a say " in
the government of State and municipal affairs.
There are, however, two sides to this, as to all other
questions. Women will be all right in politics if
good women of the State take an interest and vote
intelligently, but if the bad women of the opposite
class take a hand in political affairs (and they have
as much right to vote as the better class) they may
be hired by the political wire-puller, as well as the
ward-heeler of the male sex. If this be true, wo-
man's influence for the benefit and purification of
politics will become null and void.

The House and Senate are similar in design and
construction, decorations and fixtures, but the
House is two-fifths larger than the Senate. The
decorations in both are in shrimp pink and gilt, giv-

58 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

ing a mellow glow to the whole effect. The presi-
dent of the last Senate was Lieutenant-Governor
Francis Carney. The Speaker of the House was
Ex-Lieutenant-Governor Smith. At the last ses-
sion of the Legislature here, William Jennings
Bryan, the 16 to i presidential candidate, was in-
vited to address a joint session of the Senate and
House — something a little unusual in the ordinary
regime of legislative bodies. There were a number
of Baltimore tourists in Denver last winter, during
the session of the Legislature. They naturally vis-
ited the State Capitol, the Senate and House.
Previous to their visit to the House, Speaker
Smith vacated the chair, and delegated one of the
lady members of that honorable body as Speaker
pro tern. The Baltimore party, among whom were
several ladies, found, therefore, a woman acting as
Speaker of the House. This pleased them im-
mensely, and they carried away with them to their
eastern metropolis pleasant memories of the im-
portance of their sex in the political arena of Colo-
rado.

We visited the dome of the Capitol, from which
a fine view of the city and mountains can be had.
Perhaps the climax of the occasion was our intro-
duction to the Governor, rather unique, to say the
least. Descending the Capitol steps, we asked one
of our party the name of the Governor of Colorado.

DENVER S PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 59

Two gentlemen were directly behind us, and before
our friend had time to reply, one of these remarked,
" His name is Governor Charles S. Thomas, and
this is he (pointing to a gentleman beside him), you
may have a good look at him." Of course we
turned, " looked" and bowed, murmuring some-
thing about being glad to meet Colorado's Gover-
nor, and also saying we were from Maryland, and
had the pleasure of knowing our popular Governor,
Lloyd Lowndes — who, by the way, is not unlike
Governor Thomas in appearance and carriage. The
Governor bowed graciously and passed on with his
friend, who had been the occasion of the novel in-
troduction, and whom we learned was Mr. A. H.
Stevenson, a well-known Colorado politician. And
we thought, meeting the Governor was not an un-
fitting ending to the delightful visit to Colorado's
handsome State Capitol.

CHAPTER VI.

DENVER'S POSTOFFICE, CITY HALL, COURT HOUSE,
CLUBS AND MANY OTHER HANDSOME STRUC-
TURES BESIDE THE STATE CAPITOL —

REMINDERS OF HOME NOTES

AND INCIDENTS.

There are many other costly and handsome
buildings in Denver beside its Capitol. The United
States Postoffice and Federal Court House is lo-
cated at the corner of Sixteenth and Arapahoe
streets. Its architecture is that usual to most Fed-
eral buildings. It is constructed of lava stone, and
was completed in 1892. It cost $500,000. The
postoffice is rather too small now for the business
done here at present. It is well equipped, how-
ever, and systematically conducted. Here we see
boxes marked " Eastern Mail," " Southern Mail,"
and so forth, and so forth.

The most interesting thing in the postoffice, to
us, was the machine for stamping letters with the
date of arrival, or date of leaving the postoffice, as
the case may be. The machine is regulated by
one man, and stamps 1,000 envelopes per minute.

DENVER'S HANDSOME STRUCTURES. 61

The Arapahoe County Court House is an imposing
building with spacious well-kept grounds, and
stands at the corner of Tremont and Sixteenth
streets. It is built of Colorado sandstone, and cost
with the grounds, $1,200,000. What would An-
napolis think of expending such a sum on its Court
House, even though its population equaled that of
Denver? The City Hall — the municipal headquar-
ters— is situated at Fourteenth and Larimer streets.
It is built of undressed limestone, at a cost of $225,-

000.

The Chamber of Commerce Building is at the
corner of Fourteenth and Lawrence streets. It is
built of undressed lava stone with red sandstone
trimmings, and cost $200,000. In this building are
the city library and public reading-rooms. There
are 31,000 volumes in the library here. The Union
Exchange, somewhat in the nature of a public
building, is the handsome eight-story structure at
Arapahoe and Fifteenth streets. It is the home of
the mining-stock market in Denver. It was com-
pleted in 1890, and cost, with grounds, $400,000.
The material is red pressed brick, sandstone and
terra cotta trimmings. Next to the public build-
ings, Denver's business blocks are most impressive.
While not distinguished for "sky-scraping" or
" rookery " blocks, there are several eight- and
nine-story buildings, some of which have been in-

62 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

eluded in magazine articles as among the large and
attractive buildings of the country.

The Equitable Building leads. It is nine stories
high, of white tile-brick and granite, with elabor-
ately carved decorations, and cost $1,400,000. The
Boston Block at Seventeenth and Champa streets
is of dressed brown stone and cost $425,000.
Other imposing blocks are the Ernest & Cranmer,
McPhee Building, Jackson, Kittredge, McMurtrie,
Masonic Temple, People's Bank and Railroad
Building; the last two partaking of the nature of
" sky-scrapers."

The social side of life is highly cultivated and
encouraged in the " Queen City of the Plains."
In looking through the city directory, we find
there are more than one hundred active social,
literary, musical and educational clubs in ex-
istence. These do not include church or semi-
philanthropic organizations. Further and ample
evidence of the development of this phase of life
was given when the local clubs entertained the dele-
gates to the National Federation of Woman's Clubs
here in 1898.

The club buildings are equal to the best of any
city. Among these we might mention the Denver
Club, a massive red- and lava-stone structure,
which cost $350,000; the Denver Athletic Club,
which is one of the finest in the country, and which

DENVER'S HANDSOME STRUCTURES. 63

has a membership of 1,000. The building and
equipment cost $225,000. Beside these, there are
the University Club, the Progress Club (Jewish),
the Woman's Club, and others. Denver boasts of
one of the best hotels in the United States, the
Brown Palace. It is a magnificent building, ten
stories high, finished off in onyx on the office floor,
with grand mantle, and stairway with harmonious
finishings from the first to the tenth floor. Its
style of architecture is the Italian Renaissance, its
form is triangular, having a frontage of 810 feet on
the three avenues, and it is constructed of beautiful
Arizona brown sandstone.

Denver, like Baltimore, is also a church city.
There are 121 church organizations in the city.
Almost every denomination extant in the country
is here represented. Besides Swedish churches,
there are several bodies in which sermons are deliv-
ered in foreign languages. One encouraging feat-
ure of church life in Denver is the large number of
small churches, well distributed over the city. No
one need to go far to find a congenial house of wor-
ship. A new rule for the construction of these
churches is that they be provided with cutlery and
other equipment for church banquets, socials, and
the like.

Denver has several finely equipped and up-to-
date hospitals, elegant theatres and summer-gar-

64 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

den operas, among which latter is the famous
Elitch's Gardens. City Park is Denver's most
prominent park, although there are several here.
This one is at the eastern boundary of the city,
and contains 320 acres. It is highly improved,
having speed-tracks, bicycle-course, green-house,
lakes, zoological garden, pleasant driveways, hand-
some statuary and a handsome and unique arrange-
ment of flowers in various designs and coloring.
Public concerts are given here in summer and early
fall, and oftentimes excellent entertainments.

Denver has five national banks, one large trust
and deposit company, four private banks, six sav-
ings banks and twenty-six building and loan asso-
ciations.

Outside of Washington, no city can boast of a
brighter, cleaner appearance than Denver. The
police and municipal regulations are of exceptional
merit. The streets are paved with asphalt, and
with constant sweeping and occasional washing, are
kept in a cleanly condition. Electric lighting ex-
tends into the remotest suburbs.

The excellence of the street-car service is evi-
denced by the capacity for handling large crowds
speedily and safely. 50,000 people are often car-
ried and deposited at City Park each hour.

The fire departments are splendid in equipment
and discipline, and with all these, together with

DENVER'S HANDSOME STRUCTURES. 65

good water, Denver can answer all the require-
ments of a modern and a model city.

Beside being a good place in which to live, Den-
ver has exceptional commercial opportunities. Her
geographical position argues well for her commer-
cial powers for all time to come. Some one has
said the four great cities of the continent are New
York, Chicago, Denver and San Francisco. This
city does a jobbing business of $50,000,000 a year;
its bank clearings average $140,000,000 annually;
manufacturers, $20,000,000 annually. It has three
smelters, the operations of which extend into every
ore-producing district from Old Mexico to British
Columbia. Recognizing the fact that Denver is
the eastern gateway of the great gold-producing
districts of Colorado and the whole Rocky Moun-
tain region, the United States government is now
building here a coinage mint, to cost $500,000, and
which will furnish local employment to a large
number of people. The new coinage mint will in-
evitably be a Government Sub-Treasury, and will,
in all probability, result in Denver having a dis-
bursing office of pensions.

Such a coinage mint must necessarily, have a
very marked effect on Denver as a financial centre.
Denver stands unrivaled in either hemisphere for its
combination of advantages as a place of residence,
as a field for investment, as a place of unusually
5

66 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

rapid but solid growth, as a smelting centre, as a
city with unlimited and varied undeveloped re-
sources at its back, as an increasing manufacturing-
centre, as a cosmopolitan, energetic and enterpris-
ing community; while its past history, present po-
sition and certain future prospects undoubtedly des-
tine it to eventually be one of the four great cities
of the United States.

The world is not so large after all. To our great
surprise and pleasure, while making a call in Den-
ver, we saw a pencil-sketch in the library of one of
Denver's prominent residents, which attracted our
attention. On close inspection it proved to be a
drawing of " Larkins' Hill " the residence of James
Boyle, Esq., of Anne Arundel county, Maryland,
drawn by Seaton O'Donoho, August 25th, 1869.
We felt as if we should like to embrace that pencil-
sketch, as it was the first Maryland object we had
seen since saying good-bye to Annapolis.

One unique arrangement, of which every tourist
takes advantage in Denver, is the " Seeing Denver
and Learning Colorado " car. This is a privileged
car and runs on all the lines, making no stops but
at the hotel corners advertised to take on passen-
gers. For 25 cents one gets a two-hours ride; and
the guide on the car points out and explains all ob-
jects of interest and prominence in the city. The
idea is a happy one for tourists passing through the

DENVER'S HANDSOME STRUCTURES. 67

city, with only a few hours to spare for train-con-
nection, and its advantage is appreciated. The
" Seeing Denver " car is always crowded.

Do you dislike rain, mud and the accompanying
unpleasantness? Come to Denver. Here, the sun
shines some part of the day, 356 days out of every
365. We were in Denver two months. In that
time it rained three times only, and an umbrella
was of little use. " But," you say, " what about
the crops? They need water!" Yes, they do,
and they get it. Irrigating ditches are everywhere.
People out here let nothing stand in their way
toward successful accomplishment of their best
interests. They dig ditches, fill them with water
from brooks and streams, and irrigate their land.
It is work, but they don't mind it. Everybody
works and seems to enjoy it, too.

There are several fine breweries here in Denver,
which the average sight-s.eer takes in along with all
the rest. One of these is the Rocky Mountain
Brewery, the proprietor of which is P. H. Zang.
The brewing of beer here is said to have stirred up
more excitement than Luther did at the Diet of
Worms. We saw here that beer is fearfully and
wonderfully made. This particular brand is said to
be the acme of brewing perfection, and makes con-
noisseurs, when drinking it, long for a rubber neck
as long as a section of a garden hose. We cannot

68 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

vouch for this, as we, individually and collectively,
have signed the pledge, and wear the white rib-
bon. However, this beer is said to represent the
complete possibilities of malt, money and brains.

We also visited the famous Kuner canning and
pickling factory — a sight well worth seeing. All
kinds of canned goods are put up here; and the
process involved is interesting and instructive.
There are 150 employees in the canning and 60 in
the pickling department. Everything used is made
in the factory — even the boxes in which the cans
are packed. One man makes 300 boxes per day.
The most unique arrangement is the machine that
pastes the labels on the cans. How much there
is to be seen and learned, one does not realize until
one gets out and rubs his shoulders against the
outside world.

Some one has said, " As we journey through life,
let us live by the way/' and so they do. here in Den-
ver, " Queen City of the Plains," the Mecca of the
health-seeker, where the pure light air, free from
disease germs, is a healing fount which restores him
to health and vitality.

CLIFF-DWELLERS, MANGOS CANON.

CHAPTER VII.

EARLY HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT — ITS SCENERY
EXCELS THAT OF ALL EUROPE.

Colorado has been properly named. It is a word
of Spanish origin and means red or colored, prob-
ably because of the red or ruddy-colored sandstone
prevalent throughout the State. Colorado has in-
spired as much sentiment as any of the older States;
and Pike's Peak stands in poem, picture and ro-
mance as well as Plymouth Rock.

There is reason, after all, for this. The story of
a gold-camp, with its dramatic movement, tragic
tints of color, and episodes of humor and pathos,
makes strong material for history; and the narra-
tive of the struggles and triumphs of those pioneers,
who sat down before the mountain walls to build a
State, is beyond romance and partakes of the he-
roic. The early settlers were " cliff-dwellers," and
on the Rio Mancos, their houses may still be seen.
They are thought to be the descendants of the an-
cient Aztecs. In time, the cliff-dwellers gave way
to the Mexicans, leaving no history of themselves

7O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

save these swallow-like homes in the mountains and
cliffs.

The Spanish were the next to invade and explore
Colorado. They were seekers for gold, and dream-
ers of wealth. The Spanish and the Indians pos-
sessed the country and married and intermarried
and swindled and traded to their mutual satisfac-
tion. There were no other invaders for perhaps a
couple of centuries, and the people had a long rest
from exploring expeditions. Colorado, it will be
remembered, was a part of the " Louisiana Pur-
chase" in 1803, and three years later, Captain Ze-
bulon Pike, while exploring the valleys of Arkan-
sas, coming north, discovered the famous mountain
peak that now bears his name.

Colorado, alone, equals in area the whole of New
England and the State of New York put together,
and has greater and more varied resources than any
State in the Union. Colorado has been aptly term-
ed " The Switzerland of America."

The Alps have long since become the synonym
for grandeur, but they cannot rival these grand old
Rockies, with their sublime magnificence. Were
the glamour of romance and the tendrils of tradi-
tion cast and twined about the Rockies, as they
have been about the Alps, or were the Alpine
heights stripped of their legendary lore, and the
magnificence of both measured with unbiased mind,

TUNNEL No. 3.

THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. 71

then and only then, could a just comparison be
made. Many tourists who have beheld both the
Alps, and the Rockies of Colorado, assured us that
the variety of scenery and grandeur of our own
home mountains, surpassed that of Switzerland.
We, therefore, commiserate those of our country-
men and women who go abroad for scenery, with-
out having beheld the grandeur of Colorado — the
land of color, the land of fame, the land of startling
variety. Monotony, here, is an unknown quantity;
beauty is present everywhere; while grandeur
greets the reverent eyes of all who traverse the fast-
nesses of these Rocky Mountains, these everlasting
hills, that tower with their snow-capped lofty tips
as though to pierce the sun-illumined vault of heav-
en.

Colorado is indeed the land of sunshine. The
Weather Bureau reports show an average of 357
sunshiny days per year, covering a period of 20
years. Sunshine means health, and health is to be
found in Colorado. Humidity, which is all-pre-
vailing in Maryland, in Colorado is unknown.
Official observation for 22 years shows an aver-
age of 49.64 per cent of saturation in Colorado,
while in New York the average humidity is 71
per cent. We don't know what it is in Mary-
land, but you may compare your per cent of satu-
ration in the last 22 years with that of Colorado.

72 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

The altitude of this State naturally carries with it a
crisp, electric atmosphere, through which the warm
sun shines with slight loss. The climate of this
State is almost a perfect specific for pulmonary
troubles. One can live an out-of-door life here the
whole year round, because the cold of winter, like
the heat of summer, is tempered by the rarefied air.
Extreme cold weather is rarely known here, and
there is little snow and practically no sleighing.
The light snows they have here occur between sun-
down and sunrise, and disappear under the glowing
morning sun.

Next to climate, Colorado excels the world in
scenery. No pen can portray, no brush can pic-
ture, no words describe the majestic grandeur of
the Rockies. Colorado possesses 155 mountain
peaks, rising beyond 13,500 feet of altitude, or more
than ten times as many as there are in Europe.
Colorado's 1 04,500 square miles are broken up into
majestic wonders of mountain and plains, of glens
and canons, of waterfalls and lakes, of caverns and
peaks. Mineral springs abound here, and the noted
waters of France, Austria, Switzerland and Ger-
many are fast surrendering their reputation to those
of Colorado waters. Scenery, altitude, sunshine
and climate, therefore, constitute the factors which
are making Colorado the health and pleasure
grounds of the world.

CHAPTER VIII.

THE SIGHTS AND SCENES ON THE DENVER AND RIO

GRANDE RAILROAD THE FAMOUS LOOP

ON A BENDER.

Grand Junction and its Fruit.

The mid-continent region traversed by the Den-
ver and Rio Grande Railroad, possesses without
doubt, the most magnificent scenery in the world.
It was our good fortune while sojourning in Colo-
rado, to take some of these trips on the Denver
and Rio Grande, " The Scenic Line of the World."
This road is splendidly equipped, and the tourist or
pleasure-seeker secures every comfort while travel-
ing on the famous " Scenic Line," which is as es-
sential to Colorado as the great distributing, life-
spreading artery is to the never-resting pulsating
heart.

In the land of wonders and surprises, of con-
trasts, sharp and wonderful, to which there is said
to be no comparison on the other side of the " big
pond," it would be simply impossible to touch even
lightly on the sights and scenes, on the wonders
and panoramic pictures our eyes have feasted upon

74 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

in this enchanted land. In our feeble way, how-
ever, we shall endeavor to briefly mention some of
the picturesque beauties of Colorado that have been
immortalized in song, that we may further assist the
imaginations of those who have not beheld these
scenes, and refresh the memories of those who have
beheld them.

One of the first trips to be taken out of Denver
and over the mountains, is usually that to the far-
famed " Loop/' the most wonderful piece of engi-
neering in the country. The road here is certainly
" on a bender." The trip is made over the Colo-
rado Southern Railroad. Leaving Denver, the
road follows the mountains, those magnificent spec-
imens of God's handiwork, sublime in their grand-
eur. Following the mountains, the railroad
curves in and out, now to the right, now to the left,
the engine being in sight of the rear coach most of
the time. The Rockies jut out here and there,
until one can almost touch them from either side of
the train. Here and there appears a formation of
rock, similar in form and construction to the human
face. Then we pass through huge rocks, meeting
overhead, and styled the " Gateway." Flowers
peep between rocks and boulders; and here and
there a patch of snow can be seen glistening in the
sunlight on the tops of the loftiest peaks. The
mountain streams rush on over the boulders and

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 75

massive rocks, tearing madly on in their reckless
course down the mountain side. Ever and anon, a
cloud envelops the higher peaks, until they seem to
be swallowed up into the heavens. The grandeur
of it all is sublime, and one " looks through nature
up to nature's God."

Finally, we come to Central City, or Idaho
Springs. Here, a stop is made, and we then con-
tinue on to the road's terminus at Silver Plume,
9,476 feet above sea-level. It is vain to attempt to
describe the magnificence of the view of the sur-
rounding country. Mountains to the right of us,
mountains to the left of us, mountains in front of
us, towered in all their majestic splendor. It was
indeed grand. None of the beauty of scenery was
lost on the return-trip. The magnificent doub-
lings and twistings of the road over the mountains,
which has been christened the " Georgetown
Loop," could be seen to better advantage on the
return-trip. Pictures of this have not in the least
been exaggerated, and the construction of the road
is a piece of wonderful engineering and an evidence
of human skill and ingenuity.

When beholding the mountains we exclaimed,
" What hath God wrought ! " when beholding this
serpentine curve cut out of the rocks, a mere shelf
on the edge of which trains run and carry human
freight safely to an altitude of 9,000 feet, we ex-

76 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

claimed, " What hath man wrought ! " On the re-
turn-trip we had the novel experience of being be-
tween two storms in the mountains — one back of
us and one in front of us. We had the benefit of
their grandeur and awfulness without the unpleas-
ant experience of being caught in either of them.
Everybody who is anybody, and who comes to
Denver takes the trip around the " Loop." The
trains are always crowded, and, as the trip is made
especially for the scenery, the trains are made up of
observation-coaches, all of which are filled. Each
trip one takes out of Denver and over the scenic
lines of the West, he thinks grander, and more
grand than its predecessor. Another trip, famous
for its scenery and which tourists and pleasure-seek-
ers delight in and enthuse over is the one to Grand
Junction, over the Denver and Rio Grande Rail-
road, part of which trip is made over narrow-gauge
and part over broad-gauge system.

The narrow-gauge system of Colorado, with its
thousands of miles of road running across plains,
through canons and over snow-capped mountains,
has been the wonder of the engineering world for
some years past; while the small but powerful loco-
motives have been viewed by thousands with sur-
prise and admiration. The train for Grand Junc-
tion leaves Denver at 9.45 p. m., over the narrow-
gauge, and everybody on the Pullman " Ouray "

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 77

proceeds to " turn in " shortly after leaving the
city. For one, to whom the curves and twists
through the gorges and canons is yet a novel ex-
perience, there is little sleep in store. He holds on
like grim death, for fear of being bounced out on
the floor. He says his prayers over and over, lest
he close his eyes and wake up — he doesn't know
where. He trembles and shakes, lest his upstairs-
neighbor cave in on him, or roll out of his ele-
vated couch with a dull thud on the floor at his
side. He tortures himself with all sorts of foolish
fears and imaginations until morning dawns, and
he rises, to see the sun do likewise, and then wants
to stick a hat-pin in himself for having been such
a blasted fool, and not knowing that he was only
winding in and out Royal Gorge or Grand Canon,
or some other old place, and not going on a
straight line as though he were on the Baltimore
and Ohio, going over to Washington from An-
napolis.

What a beautiful sunrise ! The air was keen and
crisp. We sat on the rear platform, and took in
the scenery. And such scenery ! Variety is the
striking feature of Colorado scenery. Canons,
peaks and passes awe the beholder with their
grandeur. Lakes abound, whose mirrors reflect the
peaceful arching skies above; hundreds of them un-
honored and unsung, but others enshrined in the
hearts of the lovers of the beautiful.

78 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

On this trip one sees the vast plains extending to
the far horizon's rim, the grand old mountains
climbing in splintered pinnacles to the very zenith;
canons, which awe one with their abysmal depths;
valleys of Arcadian loveliness; rivers, the waters
of which sweep on with tumultuous force; brooks
of crystal cleanness; dancing waterfalls, with filmy
veil festooned with fringes of dew-drops, sparkling
like diamonds in the sunlight; flowers blooming
amidst eternal snows; foliage tinted with the touch
of frost — all this symphony of grandeur awes the
soul with a haunting beauty that once seen can
never be forgotten.

We were told that breakfast would not be until
we reached Sargent, at 9.30, so we drank in the
mountain air (which was not very filling, to say the
least, to any empty stomach), and we were not in
a condition calculated to profit the hotel, at which
we were preparing to do ample justice to breakfast
when the time came. Our first morning stop was
made at Salida, at 6.10. Salida is 217 miles from
Denver and is the centre of four divisions of the
Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. From here, the
lines radiate in all directions. Passing a number
of unimportant stations, we reached the famous
Marshall Pass at 7.55 a. m. The Pass has an alti-
tude of 10,856 feet. From this point, a magnificent
view can be had of the Sangre de Cristo (Blood of
Christ), range extending to the southeast.

\

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 79

The Pass is a scenic and scientific wonder.
Grades of 212 feet to a mile are frequent, and the
ascent and descent are made by a series of most re-
markable curves. The streams from the summit
flow eastward into the Atlantic ocean, and westward
into the Pacific ocean. We climbed the tower and
had an unobstructed view of miles of cone-shaped
summits, the timberless tops of the towering
ranges showing us that we were among the heights,
and in a region familiar with the clouds. Stretch-
ing away to the left are the Sierras. The sunlight
falls with a white, transfiguring radiance upon the
snow-capped spires of the Sangre de Cristo range,
until clouds and sky and snow peaks co-mingle,
forming a vague bewildering region. We wonder
at the triumphs of engineering skill that have given
the traveler the benefit of gazing with mingled awe
and admiration at the stupendous grandeur of such
a scene.

Sargent is reached at 9.30, where we had twenty
minutes for breakfast, not enough time to satisfy
our appetites, whetted by mountain air. Gunni-
son, on the Gunnison river, 291 miles from Denver,
is next reached. This is a mining town of great
importance, and a splendid location for fishing.
The next place of importance is Lake City, 35 miles
from Sapaniero. To reach this interesting point,
the traveler traverses the entire length of the Lake

8O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Fork Canon, one of the most magnificent of the
Rocky Mountain canons. Within three miles of
Lake City is the beautiful Lake San Cristoval, form-
ed by an immense mountain slide ages ago, and
now probably the most beautiful body of water in
the Rocky Mountains. We now approach the
Black Canon, and here the observation-car is put
on. The Black Canon is 25 miles west of Gunni-
son. Along many miles of this grand gorge, the
railroad hangs upon a shelf, hewn out of living
rock, which rises frequently to an altitude of 2,000
feet.

The Black Canon is 16 miles in length and
abounds in innumerable striking features. Great
walls of rock rise on either side. One looks up
between them at the blue dome of heaven above
with a feeling of awe. The mountain stream, pure
and limpid, rushes and gurgles to the right. The
rocks jut out here and there, and immense boul-
ders rest on the merest ledge, as though ready to
crush down with gigantic force into the abysmal
chasm beneath. About midway in the canon, Chip-
peta Falls pitches, down a perpendicular height of
hundreds of feet, from the top of dizzy cliffs, the
stream of liquid crystal to the bosom of the spark-
ling river which dashes on beside the road. Fur-
ther on, a spacious amphitheatre is passed, in the
centre of which, solitary and alone, stands Curre-

CURRECANTI NEEDLE.

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 8l

canti Needle, a towering monument of solid stone,
which reaches to where it flaunts the clouds like
some great cathedral spire. Truly, there is no
place so beautiful, so awful, so sublime in all the
world as the Black Canon, the scenery of which is
kaleidoscopic, ever-changing; walls of which are so
close together that, for most of the distance
through the canon, only a streak of sky, sometimes
in broad daylight spangled with stars, can be seen
above.

Our feeling, when beholding all this sublime
grandeur, was that we loved the whole world, and
wished that part of the people most dear to us could
see with us all this stupendous magnificence. If
there be any egotism in one (and there is in most of
us), these grand and glorious mountains, this scen-
ery of Colorado, is the place to take it all out of
him. We shall never feel our importance again.
Since beholding the Black Canon we are conscious
that we are the least of God's creation, a mere
pigmy, an ant, a grasshopper, a protoplasm — so
great, so grand, so sublime are these huge moun-
tains, the wonderful handiwork of the Creator of all
things, who centuries and ages ago called into ex-
istence these towers of rock, pointing upward to-
ward heaven, the home of the redeemed and the
blest.

How long have they stood there as monuments
6

82 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

to the Great First Cause of all things? How long
will they stand with their lofty spires reminding us
of Him to whom we owe fealty? What rich treas-
ures are buried in the secret recesses of their hearts,
treasures awaiting coming generations yet unborn?
These thoughts come crowding with hundreds of
others upon one as he reverently beholds God's
handiwork.

Here, in the Black Canon, every mood of man
finds an answering mood in Nature. The little
mountain stream smiles with gentle contentment,
the waterfall dances with jocund glee, the torrent
rages with savage fury in its wild chase through its
rocky channel, the canon frowns with somber
gloom, the mountains gaze with majesty over all.

Leaving here, we begin to make the ascent of
Cerro Summit. From here, the Uncompahgre
Valley, its river, and the distant picturesque peaks
of the San Juan are in sight of the traveler.

After passing Montrose, 353 miles from Denver,
a fine view of the Uncompahgre Mountains, ex-
tending to the southwest can be obtained. Un-
compahgre Peak, the monarch of the range, rises
to an altitude of 14,419 feet. Beyond Delta, and
after traversing rich farming lands of the Gunnison
Valley, the road passes through lower Gunnison
Valley, which also abounds in strikingly beautiful
scenery. It is now about 3 o'clock in the after-

CHIPETA FALLS, IN THE BLACK CANON.

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 83

noon. The scenery has so filled us with awe and
reverence that we are glad to descend from the
heights, and look upon the plain fields and sur-
roundings of every-day life.

Grand Junction, the famous peach district, is
reached at 5.30 p. m. Here we have a two hours'
wait, and take advantage of the time by visiting the
fruit farms, and sampling the delicious variety of
luscious peaches presented in baskets to each trav-
eler holding a coupon for same, which was given
him with his railroad-ticket. Anne Arundel has —
lo, these many years ! — been famous for its fruit and
vegetables, but Anne Arundel (with all due respect
to our native heath) is not " in it " (to use vulgar
parlance) with Grand Junction. Her peaches taste
all the way from the fuzz on the skin to the stone.
They are of the most delightful flavor, large and lus-
cious. A Grand Junction peach has an individu-
ality all its own, and no other peach can presume
to " light a candle " to it.

There are other fruits here beside peaches.
There are pears, plums, canteloupes, apricots, and
so forth, all of the finest variety. The fruit-grow-
ers at Grand Junction have the art of cultivating
fruit down to fine points, beside having the locality,
which is altogether favorable. Hemmed in by
mountains, protected from the cold blasts of winter,
with but little frosts, a bright warm sun the year

84 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

round, rich and fertile soil, what is there to prevent
the fruitful production which results therefrom?
Last season, we have been told, the Denver and
Rio Grande Express shipped 600 tons of peaches
from Grand Junction; and in strawberry-season,
these luscious berries are shipped by the car-load.
One potato grown here is oftentimes sufficient for
a family dinner, and you need not wonder at this or
think the family is a very small one, when we tell
you we have been informed, authentically, by a
gentleman who saw one, that white potatoes grow
1 8 inches in length in the neighborhood of Grand
Junction and Glenwood Springs (of which place
we shall speak later).

Grand Junction and her delicious fruit are syn-
onymous, and there never were, nor ever will be,
any peaches like Grand Junction peaches. Leav-
ing the famous fruit district, we embarked for Glen-
wood Springs, which is reached at 10.30 p. m.
Here we spent the night at Hotel Colorado, one of
the finest equipped and handsomest hotels in the
country. It is built of peach-blow colored stone
and Roman brick, and cost $350,000. It extends
around three sides of a large court 124 feet square.
This is terraced and adorned with fountains, grass-
plats, paths, and beds of flowers, affording a de-
lightful promenade, and commanding lovely views.
Broad corridors and verandas surround the court.

ROYAL GORGE.

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 85

The hotel is built in the Italian style, the Villa
Medicas in Rome having given inspiration for the
central motive, which consists of two towers, with
connecting loggias, offering fine outlooks over
mountain, river and valley. There is accommoda-
tion for 300 guests. In the morning, we took a
walk through the picturesque arbor to the bathing-
pool and boiling springs, the mineral properties of
which are famous. The analysis of one of the
springs, " Yampah," proves the efficacy of its heal-
ing properties, and that it contains more medicinal
properties than the Kissengen Springs in Bavaria.
The temperature of the Spring water is 124 de-
grees Fahrenheit. The " Yampah " flows 2,000
gallons per minute. There is but one word to de-
scribe Glenwood Springs, " The Kissengen of
America "- —Wonderful. It is an Eden, a paradise.
Imagine, if you can, a river winding between gran-
ite walls, so lofty that their shadows subdue the sun-
shine into a " dim, religious light." These waters
—of Colorado's largest river, fitly named, Grand —
chant in melodious tones a hymn to Nature, as
they proudly journey down the western slope to
wed that peaceful ocean, whose azure waves toy
with the shores of Golden Gate; now smooth and
murmuring, now dark and angry, rushing at great
rocks that lie in their pathway, roaring defiance at
the adamantine obstructions, forming with the

86 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

shifting scenery a living kaleidoscope, ever chang-
ing, now soothing with a pleasant dream, and now
exciting the mind with wonder and with awe.
These are the departing scenes as we leave Glen-
wood on the return-trip, passing into a tunnel
through a mighty mountain to the " Gates " of the
Canon of the Grand river.

We reach what is called "The Portals." On
each side, the walls rise to a height of 2,000 feet,
the river and the railroad fill the space between,
while a great monolith, to the left of the track,
stands isolated and rises like a watch-tower to
guard "The Portals."

We are now " within the gates," the picturesque
approach to the Grand river. The road curves
around a huge cliff to the left, while to the right are
the river and the perpendicular walls of the canon.
The scene, the portrayal of which is beyond human
ken, beggars description.

West of Red Cliff, and 304 miles from Denver,
we reach Eagle Canon. This is a remarkable
gorge, not only wondrous for its works of nature,
but for the wonders of human skill and handiwork.
For here the sides and summit of the canon are
made the resting-places of shaft-houses, and dwell-
ings of miners, elevated 2,000 feet above the track,
and reminding one of the eyries of eagles. This
canon is a rich mining region, of which, Battle

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 87

Mountain is the centre. Just beyond this, the rail-
road enters Red Cliff Canon, a comparatively short,
but very interesting gorge in the mountains.

Leaving here, just as the train rounds the curve,
one sees the Mount of Holy Cross. This famous
mountain bears a cross of snow upon its bosom,
formed by deposits in an upright and transverse
canon. The upright of the cross is about 1,500
feet, and the arms about 750 feet in length. The
elevation of the mountain is about 14,176 feet.

Eleven miles before reaching Leadville, the Den-
ver and Rio Grande Railroad scales the Continental
Divide, at the altitude of 10,418 feet. This is call-
ed Tennessee Pass. Thirteen miles from Lead-
ville, on the Blue river, is Fremont Pass, the high-
est railroad pass in the world, the elevation being
1 1,540 feet. Here, we had a view of Grand Moun-
tain.

As we approach Leadville we see to the west a
remarkable mountain called Mount Massive, rising
to an altitude of 14,368 feet. Leadville is a great
mining-camp and has a population of 15,000. Its
elevation is 10,200 feet, and it is the highest city in
the world. Buena Vista is the next stop. It is a
city of considerable importance, and is noted for its
cottonwood hot springs. The State reformatory is
also located here. It is a handsome building of Colo-
rado stone, and surrounded with beautiful grounds.

88 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

We now reach Brown's Canon, a small but very at-
tractive canon, flowing through which is the Ark-
ansas river. Not far from here we have a view of
three imposing peaks called Collegiate Peaks,
named for Harvard, Princeton and Yale.

We soon reach the Royal Gorge, the crowning
wonder of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad.
What can we say of this? No expletives can we
call up by word or pen that will picture the grand-
eur of this magnificent monument to the omnipo-
tence of an all-wise Creator. After the entrance
of the canon has been made, surprise and almost
terror comes. The train rolls round a long curve
close under a wall of black and banded granite, be-
side which the ponderous locomotive shrinks to a
mere dot, as if swinging on some pivot in the heart
of the mountain, or captured by a centripetal force
that would never resign its grasp. Almost a whole
circle is accomplished, and the grand amphitheatri-
cal sweep of the wall is made in its smooth and zen-
ith-cutting fagade. Will the journey end here? Is
it a mistake that this crevice goes through the
range? Does not all this mad water gush from
some spring, or boil out of a subterranean channel,
impenetrable to us? No, it opens.

Resisting centripetal, centrifugal force claims the
train, and it breaks away at a tangent, past the edge
or round the corner of the great black wall which

THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD. 89

compelled its detour and that of the river before it.
Now, what glories of rock-piling confront the
wide-distended eye ! How those sharp-edged cliffs,
standing with upright heads that play at hand-ball
with the clouds, alternate with one another, so that
first the right then the left, then the right one be-
yond strike our view, each one half obscured by its
fellow in front, each showing itself level-browed
with its comrades as we come even with it, each a
score of hundreds of dizzy feet in height, rising per-
pendicular from the water and the track, splintered
atop into airy pinnacles, braced behind against the
almost continental mass, through which the chasm
has been cleft. And this is Royal Gorge !

There is not a whit of egotism in us now, we are
even smaller than the ant, a mere animalcule. The
Royal Gorge is indeed the climax of grandeur.
The shades of night are falling, and the exquisite
scenery is shut in by the drapery of nightfall, pin-
ned back here and there by the stars. We be-
grudge the veil of darkness which obscures the
view, every inch of which we have thoroughly en-
joyed, and over which we are naturally enthused.
There was no monotony about it all, for the scene
was an ever-changing one, with mountain, river,
gorge, canon, and now and then ranches, log-huts
and mining-camps looming up along the road, not
to mention the foliage, great green and red patches

90 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

of which, interspersed with yellow, dotted the
mountain sides.

The trip to Grand Junction is too grand for mere
description. One had as well try to make a deaf
person appreciate the deathless harmonies of Wag-
ner or Lange, as to attempt to depict with word or
pen the beauties with which nature has endowed
Colorado. The colored porter's description is as
eloquent as any we can think of : " Yes, indeedy
Miss, nachuh has sho'ly been heah, an' she's heah
yet."

CHAPTER IX.

OF THE WEST" — PIKE'S PEAK — "THE

GEM OF THE ROCKIES."

One of the cities of the far-famed Pike's Peak
region is Colorado Springs. It is a city of 20,000
inhabitants, and is a popular summer resort. Here,
one may enjoy all the comforts of life together with
conveniences, and a large share of pleasure the
modern city affords, not to mention abundance of
Colorado air, sunshine and scenery.

Driving through the city, one sees the elegant
and costly mansion along with the cosy home-like
cottage. Its streets are broad and bordered on
either side by shade trees, which effect is very pleas-
ing. Its hotels are metropolitan of size and ap-
pointment, its business houses, stores, churches and
schools, and clubs are imposing structures, thor-
oughly equipped, costly and up to date.

Here, some of the most influential business men
of the State reside. Colorado Springs is the seat
of the Colorado College. It is strictly a temper-
ance town, and for once we were in a city of 20,000

92 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

inhabitants where there is not a single saloon. The
absence of these prominent exponents of other
cities is at once apparent to the visitor, and re-
freshingly unique. The society of the place is
charming.

One meets the most delightful people, highly
cultured and much-traveled residents, together
with numerous tourists from Old Glory's domain
and across the " big pond." The environments of
Colorado Springs are great in number and variety
of scenic wonders. Besides having superb roads
and boulevards, there are several lines of electric
railways leading to the great Cheyenne Canons, to
Manitou, the Garden of the Gods, and to other
points of supreme interest.

Here, the matchless panorama of the Pike's
Peak Range for 20 miles from north to south, is
ever in view, notching the sky in splendid serra-
tions, and dominated midway by the great peak it-
self.

Everybody who visits Colorado Springs visits
the famous Broadmoor Casino. It lies at the foot
of the mountains, and possesses attractions, as no-
table in its way, as they do. It is modeled after the
famous German and Italian casinos, and is a veri-
table temple of pleasure, perfect in its every ap-
pointment.

Colorado Springs has a climate that attracts the

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. 93

health-seeker. Here is located the State Blind In-
stitution, a handsome granite and red-brick build-
ing, well equipped for the instruction of those un-
fortunates to whom the sights and scenes of this
lovely State are lost forever. It was the good
pleasure of the writer to visit this institution, and
to be conducted through the buildings by a bright
lad of seventeen years, who, with his hands in his
pockets, walked from room to room, telling us
what was taught here and there.

We asked him how he could get about without
the use of his hands or a cane to locate his where-
abouts. His reply was : " If you had been here
seven or eight years, as I have, I presume you
could do the same, even though totally blind." We
went into the room where geography is taught, and
around the walls of which were raised maps. We
asked him to tell us some of the continents and
islands. By touching them he correctly told with-
out the slightest hesitation. One little blind boy of
ten years played " Georgia Camp-meeting" for us,
as well as anyone with sight could. It is wonderful
to see these children, some of whom are deaf and
dumb as well as blind, play at ball and other games,
during recreation hour, happy though so sorely af-
flicted.

The Printers' Home is also located at Colorado
Springs. It is another handsome building, and

94 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

here a number of sick and disabled printers, many
of whom are victims of tuberculosis, are seeking
health. They are from almost every State in the
Union, and quite a number from Washington, who
formerly worked in the Government Printing Of-
fice in that city.

One never visits Colorado Springs without see-
ing Cheyenne Canon — the North and the South
Cheyenne; the latter, though not so long as the
former, is superb, and is owned by two young men,
who inherited it from their father, he having pur-
chased the land as a homestead and developed and
improved it. To-day, it is a veritable gold-mine
for these two boys, who charge an admission of
25 cents to the canon. So often have we used
the expletives " grand, sublime, magnificent " in
describing Colorado scenery that they have long
since become trite. Indeed, there are no words to
describe the works of God and nature here.

Words are inadequate for description, and one
word must express all — Wonderful. In going
through North Cheyenne Canon, we observed the
rock-formations on either side, to which names
have been ascribed. We passed Longfellow's
Monument, a massive pinnacle of rock towering
toward the sky, standing isolated from others of its
kind, fit emblem to honor the memory of the poet
laureate for whom it is named. Next arose before

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. 95

us, Prospect Dome, an imposing spire of 125 feet.
Then, the Pillars of Hercules loomed up in our
pathway, two companion rocks 800 feet high. The
torrent rushed by us, the queer and curious foun-
dations of rock loomed up ever and anon ; the scen-
ery continued to awe and inspire us as we climbed
up, up, up to the end of North Cheyenne Canon,
where there are entrances to three mines of for-
mer days, which, gay and alluring in their de-
ceptiveness, won man's confidence to their inmost
hearts, and then cast him off to seek more remuner-
ative creatures of their kind. We went into these
shafts part-way, then, retracing our steps through
North Cheyenne Canon, we proceeded to visit
South Cheyenne Canon, a most picturesque and
awe-inspiring spot.

Here are massive walls of richly covered gran-
ite, rising from murmuring streams, almost perpen-
dicular to the sky above. Their bold and rugged
cliffs are split and broken by the never-ending bat-
tle with the elements. Their lofty domes and tow-
ers stand alone and unsupported after centuries of
upheaval and commotion, inconceivable to man.

The lonely brook, with its crystal waters, winds
in and out in the deeply wooded recesses of the
mountains, and, with melodious murmur, glides
over the mossy logs and boulders strewn in its
path, beneath ferns and bushes arched above it.

96 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Now it passes through the solitary glen, now un-
der the shadow of the gray old trees, the keepers
of the secrets of the ages past, where the tourist
may find undisturbed communion with Nature.
The canon is covered with moss and filled with
flowers of every tint and hue, ladening the air with
sweetest perfume.

As one enters South Cheyenne Canon, he be-
holds a great cleft in the granite monument, as
though some mighty hand had split and welded it,
that one might enter and behold the wondrous
works of time within.

At the right of the entrance is a massive granite
shaft towering almost to the sky, called " Eagle
Cliff." It is so called because our glorious Ameri-
can bird has chosen it a fit place to build his home.
Just before us is another giant, equally as grand
and impressive, and clinging to its side, half-way
down from its summit, and standing out in bold
relief against the sky, are " Vacant Chair" and
" Hindoo Baby," each a curious and suggestive
rock-formation. Passing through the gate, where
the toll, previously spoken of, is paid, two immense
pillars of rock stand squarely across the canon,
completely filling it, and demanding a halt.

The way seems barred, and the tourist is at a loss
to know which way to go, but the brook has found
its way and so must we. Here we find the most

SEVEN FALLS IN CHEYENNE CANON.

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. 97

wonderful demonstration in the action of the water.
For hundreds of feet, the canon, at this point, has
been worn through the solid granite. On either
side, the perpendicular walls rise nearly 1,000 feet
high, and at one place, are but 40 feet apart, barely
giving room for the creek and the roadway between
them. Not far from these great pillars of rock, on
the left, is Observatory Point; next we come to a
graceful symmetrical pinnacle of granite, more than
300 feet high. It stands alone, like a watch-tower
of the God of War, its foot wrapped in a great dark
cloak of sombre evergreen. The burro-trail leaves
the canon here and winds its way through a thickly
wooded gulch to Point Lookout and Seven Falls.
Here, nature out-does herself in a grand display
of mighty cliffs and rushing waters. Here, is a
colossal amphitheatre, down one side of which
plunges the foaming torrent in seven distinct leaps
from a perpendicular height of 216 feet. To view
this, we ascend a mighty stairway and enjoy the
beauties around, above and beyond. It is said,
there is no place accessible to tourists which sur-
passes South Cheyenne Canon in scenic beauty,
not even excepting the Yosemite Valley and Al-
pine gorges. The entire canon presents a succes-
sion of the grandest views that can be imagined,
while beautiful brooks of crystal water, a flora un-
surpassed in variety and the finest hills in Colorado,
add to its surpassing attractiveness.
7

98 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

We must not forget to say, in passing, that in
this canon we saw the famous burro " Dick," which
Helen Hunt Jackson, the poetess, has immortal-
ized in some of her poems. " Dick " is a white
burro, 39 years old, and famous for having been
used by the United States government 20 years
ago. He helped to build the cog-wheel railway up
Pike's Peak. The grave of Helen Hunt Jackson,
whose poems are filled with the glories of these
mountains she loved so well, is at the summit of
Seven Falls, in quiet Cheyenne Canon.

Leaving Colorado Springs and traveling a few
miles distant by steam or electric railway, one ar-
rives at the world-famous Manitou. Everyone has
heard of Manitou, and hundreds of thousands have
been to this queen of mountain resorts, which pos-
sesses a peculiar charm for. the tourist, and casts
about him a magic spell, under the bewitching
glamour of which he lingers. Manitou, the soft,
melodious Indian name, means Spirit. One read-
ily recalls those lines of Longfellow's Hiawatha :

" Gitchie Manitou, the Mighty!
Give your children, food, oh Father,
Give us food or we must perish,
Give me food for Minnehaha,
For my dying Minnehaha. ' '

But Manitou is said to have gotten its name
some other way. A facetious stage-driver told us

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE S PEAK, ETC. 9Q

quite a different story for the origin of the In-
dian name. A lady had been traveling through
this portion of Colorado more than a quarter of a
century ago, when there were few inhabitants in
the present city of Manitou. Reaching home, her
folk asked her about the sights and scenes of the
country. " Well, tell us what you saw there " was
the request of one. " Oh, I only saw a man or two"
was the response, and so Manitou got its name, the
story says.

Manitou is called " The Saratoga of the West."
It is five miles from Colorado Springs, and 80 miles
due south of Denver. It lies in a cup-like glen,
surrounded by mountains, and has for an impres-
sive back ground, high above the surrounding
summits, the lonely majesty of Pike's Peak. It is
famous for its mineral waters, picturesque sur-
roundings and the cog-wheel railroad to the sum-
mit of Pike's Peak. Its inhabitants number about
2,000.

There are two electric-light plants here and three
miles of streets lighted by arc lights. A beautiful
avenue, 80 feet wide, runs through the town, on
either side of which are handsome cottages, villas
and hotels of elegant design and construction. In
the centre of the town are the famous mineral
springs — soda, sulphur and iron. These are in-
closed within miniature parks and pleasure-

100 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

grounds, and to these sparkling mineral springs the
Indians brought their sick for healing long before
the coming of the white man's foot. Sparkling,
effervescent and highly agreeable to taste, their
waters are adapted to cure or alleviate a wide range
of chronic " ills which man is heir to."

There are resorts galore, but rustic, balmy,
healthful Manitou is at the head of the procession,
and offers more pleasure, distraction and recreative
opportunity than any of them. Climatically there
is no other region that so nearly approaches the
ideal, both in its conduciveness to health and its
ecstatic delightfulness; and, scenically, the whole
region rou'nd about is fairly covered with the weird,
the wonderful and the beauteous. The various
springs are Nature's own apothecary shop. Na-
ture was indeed lavish in showering her blessings
on Manitou. Her attractions are natural — God
made them. Manitou ! There is symphony in the
soft, sweet sound of that Indian name for the Great
Spirit, for all who have felt the charm of the place
it designates.

One takes in the numerous environments for
which Manitou is remarkable, and some of which
are Glen Eyrie, Garden of the Gods, Cave of the
Winds, and Pike's Peak. We took the last men-
tioned first, preferring the morning to the after-
noon on the summit. Pike's Peak ! That historic

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. IOI

beacon summit which guided the early explorers
across the Great Plains, rears its snow crest in the
midst of a veritable wonderland. Here, one be-
holds Nature in some of her grandest and most
fantastic moods. Here, are massive, gigantic
mountain peaks rearing their heads in the regions
of perpetual snow. Here, when the world was
young, was the play-ground of Titan's force —
rock-forms of every size, shape and color, rising in
airy pinnacles like the spires of Milan, or in solid
shafts, against which modern engineering might
beat in vain.

There are several ways in which the tourist may
ascend the Peak — by wagon, on burro, by the cog-
wheel railway, or, if he has the grit of three Eng-
lishmen we met, he takes it afoot. Hailing from
Maryland, and being imbued with Southern blood
that loathes over-exertion, and loves ease and com-
fort, we took the cog. The railway is unique, not
to say wonderful. At the Iron Springs, the termi-
nus of the street-railway, one takes the car for the
summit of the Peak. The coach is fitted out as
any railroad coach is; the engine, which we shall
not attempt to describe, because we cannot, pushes
the coach from the rear up the mountain. In the
centre of the track is the cog-wheel arrangement,
and this is the distinctive feature which accom-
plishes this great feat of engineering. The grade

IO2 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

in the road is wonderful, and at one part there is
an ascent of 25 per cent perpendicular for three
miles.

Were it not for the cog-wheel railway, only
those few of nature's physical aristocrats who have
superior development of limbs and lungs, would
be permitted to mount above the clouds and stand
" close to the sun in lonely lands." But the cog
reduces all men to a common level in the enjoy-
ment of this sublime pleasure without physical ex-
ertion and without fatigue of any kind. Any one
able to travel in a railroad-car can be lifted up to
the strange region of clouds and storms, and for a
few hours exist in the heart of eternal desolation.
To the common-place human being this trip is a
chapter from one of Jules Verne's romances. The
dullest mind is susceptible to grand, impressive and
poetic fancies, and these are sure to be aroused and
felt by the experience at the summit of Pike's
Peak. We did not make the ascent without trepi-
dation, knowing that the altitude seriously affects
some, specially those whose "too solid flesh will
not melt " (misquoted). But we gritted our teeth,
swallowed the lump in our throat, and said " Pike's
Peak or bust."

Difficult indeed is the task of attempting even to
describe what may be seen from the train ascend-
ing Pike's Peak. A picture for the mind of the

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE S PEAK, ETC. 103

varied tints and colors, and constantly-changing
panorama, can reach it only through the human
eye. The lower terminus of the cog-wheel road is
situated at the mouth of Engleman's Canon, the
sides of which are formed by the slopes of Manitou
Hiawatha Mountains. Rushing through the canon,
Ruxton creek, a sparkling mountain stream, swiftly
flows beside us, dashing madly on over massive
boulders and forming numberless cascades and
waterfalls far below. Its source is the perpetual
snow, and we follow it for two and three-quarter
miles. There are many scenes and points of inter-
est en route up the Peak. A short distance from
the starting point are Shady Springs, hidden under
the slope of the massive mountain upon which rest
Gog and Magog. To the right is the Lone Fish-
erman, who patiently waits at the top of the north-
ern wall of the canon. Now we enter the Great
Pass, where we see Echo Falls, named from the
echo rocks above, from the high walls of which the
sound of dashing waters is distinctly reverberated.
Just beyond is the natural creek tunnel, an arched
waterway formed by the fallen boulders through
which the stream flows. Passing the stupendous
Hanging Rock, that makes us shudder lest it lose
its equilibrium at that very moment, we are soon
at Artist's Glen, from where a good view of the
Garden of the Gods may be had.

IO4 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Next on the right is Plum Pudding (like mother
used to make); on the left the Turtle and Punch,
and passing through a natural gateway we come in
view of Minnehaha Falls. Here is a picturesque
group of Swiss cottages set among the pines, and
occupied by pleasure-seekers. Lizzard Rock, Pin-
nacle Rock, Devil's Slide, the Elk's Head, the
Fleuride gold-mine are left behind, and we sud-
denly come upon the Half- Way House, a comfor-
table hotel situated in a beautiful grove at the foot
of Grand View Rock. Here, a short stop is made,
and several passengers, fearing bad effects from the
altitude at the summit, leave the car. Only a few
being overburdened with avoirdupois tissue, which
is an unfavorable condition in high altitudes, re-
main with those ambitious to reach the summit.

On we go, up, up through the narrow, rugged
walls of Hell's Gate, and enter the verdant Ruxton
and Aspen Parks, over which Bald and Sheep
Mountains stand as sentinels. Here, for two and
a quarter miles a comparative level stretch is trav-
eled and a good view of Grand Old Mountain is
had; as we are almost under the summit we gain a
better view of the altitude than from any other
point of view. Our train makes a stop for water,
as there is before us the longest and steepest in-
cline on the road, winding around the southern
side of the mountain. As we ascend, the moun-

THE MOUNTAIN-CLIMBER.

MRS. RILEY PICKNICKING IN THE ROCKIES.

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. IO5

tains to the east seem to sink until they become
mere foothills, and our view to the east and south
becomes more extended. From Inspiration Point,
we see far below us a glacial lake covering no
acres, and glacial rocks, upon which are marks
showing the unmistakable action of ice in ages
past. These rocks are Mount Baldy and Mount
Garfield, Bear Creek Canon and the Southern
Mountains.

After passing Timber Line (11,578 ft.), we cross
a great field of broken rock, in which are small
areas where enough soil is found for some small
mosses and many low Alpine plants to take root;
and here, in season, there is a profusion of these
tiny flowers, which one could hardly expect to find
at such a high altitude. At Windy Point we get
our first western view, and are but a short distance
from the summit, which is reached one hour and a
half after leaving Manitou. The world is now be-
fore us, and rare indeed would be the art that could
picture to the soul, unaided by the sense of sight,
the unapproachable magnitude of the view that
now greets the bewildered eye. Spread out before
us is a mighty panorama of 40,000 square miles.
To the east is a gay confusion of buffalo plains,
streams and flowering fields dotted over with vil-
lages and cities. Colorado Springs, Manitou and
the Garden of the Gods are at our feet, and look

IO6 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

like flower-beds. To the south are Seven Lakes,
the Raton Mountains of New Mexico, and the
famous Spanish Peaks; the cities of Pueblo, Flor-
ence, Canon City and Altman — the highest min-
ing town in Colorado — and the Arkansas Valley
and Cripple Creek.

To the west, protruding itself above the clouds,
is the Sangre de Cristo Range, spreading out its
sheet of perpetual snow, and freshening the air that
one breathes with the vigor it stimulates. Buffalo,
Blanca, Ouray, Harvard, Princeton, Yale, Holy
Cross and Elbert Peaks are in this direction at dis-
tances varying from 60 to 150 miles. To the north
are the abyss, Gray and Long's Peak, and Denver
Castle Rock and Manitou Park in the Continental
Divide. Few persons, comparatively, know the
sensation of looking from a mountain top over
thousands of miles of the earth's surface; and to
those few who have realized this sensation, it af-
fords an indelible recollection, one of the experi-
ences of a lifetime cherished on memory's brightest
page. The barometer here stands about 17 inches,
and water boils at 184 degrees Fahrenheit. Can
you wonder then that the human body and human
mind in these conditions manifest new feelings?
One feels that he must get on his knees and wor-
ship the Great God of Nature, the Great First
Cause of all this grandeur and sublime splendor.

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. IO7

At the summit of the peak is located the United
States Signal Station building, the highest obser-
vatory in the country. It was built in 1882, but
is not in operation now. On the summit, there is
one lonely grave, covered with rocks, the plain
wooden headstone bearing this inscription : " In
memory of Mary O'Keefe, daughter of John and
Kate O'Keefe, who was eaten by rats, 1876." Tra-
dition says, Mary O'Keefe, losing her way in the
mountains, sank down exhausted and was eaten by
mountain-rats.

A popular fad of those who reach the summit of
Pike's Peak is to telegraph to their friends, or send
them a Pike's Peak illustrated postal card. These
are ten cents each, and the writing is in a very
shaky hand. This is not to be wondered at when
one is in the clouds and can, in reality, " push dem
clouds away " with one's hands. The greater won-
der is that he can write at all.

One of the party was an old man from Iowa,
aged 70 years. He had started at seven o'clock in
the morning to walk from Manitou up the peak.
It was too much for him, and we took him aboard
at the Pike's Peak News office. It was then ten
a. m. and he had walked to the altitude of 9,699
feet. We talked with him, and congratulated him
on his ambition and nerve. He said he had not
done so much after all, for the day previous a man

IO8 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

and a woman from Kansas, carrying an eight-
months old baby, had walked to the summit. Not
knowing anything about Kansas endurance, we
presumed these people must have been English.
The idea of walking up to an altitude of 14,147
feet is not to be despised, but to carry a baby is
quite an unusual feat.

The Pike's Peak Daily News is published by an
enterprising woman, and is sold to those on the
train at 10 cents a copy, except to the clergy and
newspaper fraternity; to these, who are numbered
with the blest, it is presented gratis. Happily we
are in the latter category. The paper contains the
names of those who visit the peak daily. You give
your name as you make the ascent; returning, you
buy the paper, name and all. Quick work, isn't
it? But nothing astonishes you in Colorado, after
you have been here a while. It is altogether a
swift place, and in its bright lexicon of get-at-ive-
ness, there are no such words as " can't " or " fail."

The first ascent to the peak was made July I4th,
1819. It has been stated that the first woman to
stand on the summit of Pike's Peak was Mrs. James
Holmes, who is said to have reached the summit
August 5th, 1858.

Mrs. Samuel J. Riley is also a claimant for the
distinguished honor of having been the first woman
to reach the summit of the Peak, and it seems
highly probable that she was.

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. IOO,

Mrs. Riley, nee Mollie Devinney, was born in
Kentucky, and was one of three sisters who married
Kent county (Maryland) men.

Mr. Devinney, Mrs. Riley's father, moved with
his family from Kentucky to St. Joseph, Missouri,
and here the three sisters met the three Kent
county men, who, at different times drifted there,
and finally married them, a rather striking coinci-
dence in everyday life. One of these men was
Samuel J. Riley, the husband of the woman said to
have been the first to mount the summit of Pike's
Peak. After their marriage, Mr. and Mrs. Riley
resided in St. Joseph, Missouri, when, in the sum-
mer of 1874, Mrs. Riley planned a visit to her
younger sister, Mrs. Joseph Dozier, who resides at
Colorado Springs. During her visit, Mrs. Riley
conceived the notion of making the ascent to the
summit of Pike's Peak. She was a frail, delicate
woman, and her friends and relatives attempted to
dissuade her from making the trip, believing the
hardships and trials would cause her death. She
was a woman of indomitable will, however, and
once having fixed her heart and mind on attaining
a goal, was determined to pursue it. She started
out, therefore, and in company with two gentlemen
friends, she made the trip in two days and a night
without the slightest harm to her health, and this
in the days when there was only a foot-path up the

IIO WESTERN WANDERINGS.

mountain height. The superintendent of the
Weather Bureau on the summit told Mrs. Riley
she was the first woman who had made the ascent.
Mrs. Riley married a nephew of Mr. Marion De
Kalb Smith, of Chestertown, Maryland, late Comp-
troller of the State of Maryland from 1892 to 1896.

She was a very ambitious woman, of a mild, gen-
tle disposition and lovely character, and drew about
her many admiring friends. She died in 1881 in
Texas, where her husband had removed.

In the picture — " Mrs. Riley Picnicing in the
Rockies " — Mrs. Riley is on the right, holding her
infant in her arms; the little boy below is her son,
and the little girl to the left, in the plaid dress, is
her daughter. In the centre is Mr. Joseph Dozier,
and to the left Mrs. Dozier, Mrs. Riley's younger
sister.

To Major Zebulon Pike, is due the honor of first
describing the peak which now bears his name.
Nearly a century ago (to be exact, November 5th,
1806), Major Pike first beheld the " Great Snow
Mountain." Under many difficulties and hard-
ships, Pike and some of his soldiers climbed the
intervening hill, and viewed the frowning battle-
ments of the great peak. After 14 days' climbing,
without succeeding in reaching the summit, Pike
was discouraged at the outlook and recorded in his
diary, " no human being could ascend to the sum-

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKE'S PEAK, ETC. Ill

mit." We should like to know his feelings to-day,
could he see the tourists who reach the uttermost
pinnacles of this " inaccessible " mountain by
burro-trail, mountain wagon, and Pike's Peak cog-
wheel railway.

The explorer, whose name it immortalizes, never
set foot at its base, to say nothing of its summit,
but as he first printed a description of its grandeur,
the credit of the discovery belongs to him. Since
its discovery, its fame has steadily increased, and
no mountain in the world is more widely known to
all classes and conditions of men than Pike's Peak.
Occupying as it does a commanding position in the
scenery of Colorado, it also occupies a command-
ing position in history and tradition. At its foot
rests Manitou, cradled among the hills. From its
snow-crowned summit descends the cooling
breezes which render this favored spot a delight to
all visitors whom good fortune has sent thither.
Here, bubble those fabled delicious waters of
health-giving springs — rivaling in efficacy the
Fountain of Perpetual Youth, which Ponce de
Leon strove in vain to find, and, at last, still bravely
searching, lost that life which he had dreamed to
make immortal.

One meets, in traveling for scenery, a great many
very nice people. Our passengers up the cog
numbered 44, among them several from England,

112 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Germany, Paris and two gentlemen from Copen-
hagen, Denmark. One of these was Dr. Alex.
Paulsen, chief of the military hospital at Copen-
hagen, in which there are 500 beds for sick and dis-
abled soldiers. His companion, one Mr. Lauritz
Dahle, and the doctor were " doing " this country.
They had started out from the Atlantic coast and
were working their way to Balboa's broad and
peaceful Pacific and the Golden Gate, whence
they go to Honolulu, Hong Kong, Java and Mal-
ta, returning to Denmark in April. " What do you
think of our country? " we asked Mr. Dahle. " It
is grand, lovely," was the reply. " I like Washing-
ton and Chicago, but New York best. In New
York it is so fine. I like the idea that the gentle-
men here are not allowed to smoke in public build-
ings." This was something that we did not know.
" The Americans," he continued, " are the very
cleverest people in the world. I think you think
so yourself, too."

At this we smiled a very conscious broad smile.
We Americans all think we're clever, and that's a
fact. Continuing in his praise of our grand old
country he said : " The people here are enterpris-
ing, energetic, but very nervous, very nervous in-
deed." We felt inclined to say, " tell us something
we don't know," for nervousness in our race is a
self-evident fact. " Colorado is grand," Mr. Dahle

nHKB^F*

PIKE'S PEAK FROM THE GARDEN OF THE GODS-THE GATEWAY.

COLORADO SPRINGS, PIKES PEAK, ETC. 113

continued, " It is the most beautiful State we have
visited in your country." " It is our Switzerland/'
we said, " do you think it compares with yours? "
" Yes, oh yes," was the reply, " it is just as beauti-
ful, these mountains are more beautiful than the
Alps which may be more snow-capped, but the
scenery of which is no better. This is a grand
mountain (referring to Pike's Peak), the scenery
here is magnificent." " But tell us of your own
country," we asked, " tell us of Denmark." " Den-
mark has 2,000,000 inhabitants, the oldest people
in Europe live there. We have no black people.
I like to see them here, they interest me. We have
not many Jews either. There are no common
schools there for children whose parents are not
able to pay to educate them, but those who are
able to pay must bear the expense. Our taxes are
three per cent of our annual income. We have a
good climate and beautiful forest."

"Are your winters very severe?" we asked.
" No, not very," was the reply, " there is not much
ice and little skating." Referring to exports, Mr.
Dahle said that England gets most of her butter
from Denmark. "But what are you writing? "
was the astonished query of our new acquaintance
of the cog-wheel railway, " do you belong to the
newspaper fraternity? " We soothed his fears by
telling him we had that honor, and he became as
close-mouthed as an oyster while we continued
8

114 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

" taking notes." Asking the impression that our
people, individually, made upon the foreign tourist,
we received, hesitatingly, the reply that the average
American endeavored to make extortionate charges
on the foreigner traveling in this country, and sev-
eral cases were cited in illustration. To use Ameri-
can parlance, these gentlemen from Denmark said
our countrymen tried to " do " them at hotels, for
carriage-hire, and so forth, and that this trait gave
America a black eye abroad. We fancy it is " tit
for tat " when we visit them, and there is a sort of
evening up, after all.

In conclusion, what shall we say of Pike's Peak?
We have failed to describe its glorious splendor, for
description fails when the writer is human and the
subject so sublime. Its summit would attract the
eye anywhere, its foot hidden in verdurous hilis.
guarded by knightly crags, half buried in seething
clouds, its helmet vertical, frowning, plumed with
gleaming snow. The tourist realizes that he has
reached that height, " around whose summit
splendid visions rise." Pike's Peak, shining grand-
ly out of the pure ether, above all turbulence and
strife, seems to say : " Humble thyself, O man !
Uncover thy head, forget not that as high as
gleams the splendor of this everlasting mountain
above thy gilded spires, so are the thoughts of its
Creator above thy thoughts, His ways above thy

CHAPTER X.

COLORADO SCENERY — GRAND CAVERNS — WILLIAMS

CANON — THE GARDEN OF THE GODS CAVE

OF THE WINDS GLEN EYRIE.

In the neighborhood of Manitou, Nature is in
her most majestic mood. A series of grand per-
spectives attract and charm the tourist. Driving
up Ute Pass, we visit Grand Caverns, and they have
their proper names, for they are indeed grand. The
Caverns are located up Agate Mountain in Ute
Pass, near the heart of Manitou.

They have been opened to the public since 1885,
during which time 120,000 visitors have passed the
portal to inspect the weird and wonderful crea-
tions of Nature. Following a short passage-way,
we were taken over a road hewn through massive
boulders, into the rotunda or vestibule, where we
got a first glimpse of the subterranean wonders,
while from this chamber radiate the various ave-
nues to the mystic chambers beyond.

In the vestibule are to be found forms of rare and
curious workmanship, stalactites and stalagmites of
alabaster, and other translucent compositions.

Il6 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Leaving the vestibule, a passage is followed
through Canopy avenue, in which are found the re-
mains of the prehistoric occupants of the Caverns.
Alabaster Hall, radiant with sparkling fountains
and marvelous adornments, is a paradise of splen-
dor. Stalactite Hall, which adjoins this, is, as its
name implies, made up of figures of diversified
shapes, which hang from the ceiling with corre-
sponding growths from below, many of these meet-
ing in marble embrace, the completion of which
must have occupied countless ages.

The Narrows, a short and sinuous passage-way,
leads on to the Opera House, where attractions are
replete in dazzling array. Concert Hall presents
varied attractions which dazzle and mystify the be-
holder. The ceiling is high and majestic, the walls
and arches being symmetrical as though fashioned
by a master hand. Perched on a natural balcony
on one side is the organ, marvelously wrought, and
composed of thin stalactites, tuned to an almost
perfect gamut. Here, a musician regales the visi-
tor with selections on this natural instrument. The
impression one receives of Grand Caverns is of
something mighty, unreal and supernatural. Leav-
ing Grand Caverns, we proceed to Williams Canon,
the drive to which is a miracle among mountain
roads. Temple Drive to this canon is carved and
blasted from the corrugated and " impossible " side

COLORADO SCENERY.

of the mountains. It now presents with its solid
stone-walled sides, railway of heavy timber, and
even, easy grade as located by the engineers, the
safest and most interesting drive in the mountains
of Colorado.

Williams Canon, located as it is amid scenic
grandeur and panoramic picturesqueness, is indeed
beautiful. It is under the cap of the mountains,
every knob and peak of which possesses a peculiar
charm for the traveler. Here, there are castles and
fortifications chisseled out in by-gone ages. The
side walls of the canon are several hundred feet
high, and almost perpendicular. The rock has
been washed and eroded in every conceivable form
and shape. Through beautiful Williams Canon
and Temple Drive, we approach the Cave of the
Winds, this wonder of wonders, whose revelations
of Nature's freaks and fancies is beyond the highest
possible conception, or most extravagant expecta-
tions. The Cave of the Winds was discovered by
two boys, aged n and 14, respectively, who, play-
ing in the mountains about Williams Canon, saw
the opening and ventured into it. They told their
exploits, and further investigation followed. The
result was, the land was purchased by two men, who
developed and improved the roadway leading to
the Cave, and explored the mystery of this under-
ground palace. The original owners are now num-

Il8 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

bered with those who " sleep the sleep that knows
no waking," and their wives are possessors of this
veritable gold-mine. The guide told us the re-
cords this season showed an enormous number of
visitors, those of a single day, on one occasion,
numbering 750. When the admission-fee is $i,
you can appreciate what it means to take in $750
per day.

It was the close of the season when we " took in "
the Cave, or it took us into its subterranean em-
brace, and on that day there had been 60 visitors.
This was considered a very poor day, but we
thought $60 a day good earnings.

But, not to digress — the first chamber we enter
is Entrance Hall. Its dimensions are 50 x 50, with
a ceiling 8 to 10 feet high. Passing on, we enter
Curtain Hall, a room 40 or more feet long, 10 to
12 feet wide and 15 feet high. This room is singu-
larly ornamented with stalactite, and other forma-
tions; a very fine formation of calcite on one of the
walls is known as the " Curtain." The coloring of
this is more beautiful than if painted by hand, and
when seen under bright rays of magnesium light,
its beauty is beyond power of man to describe. We
next enter Canopy Hall, which is nearly 300 feet
long, 40 feet high and averages 30 feet in width.
The ceiling, side walls and floor are well covered
with calcite. The side walls are very rugged and

COLORADO SCENERY. 119

the floor slightly uneven. This " Hall " is pro-
fuse in ornamentation. Here are to be seen Sta-
lactite Niche, Bed of Cauliflowers, Frescoed Ceil-
ing, Lake Basin, Grandma's Skillet, Bats Wings,
Xenophon, Fringe of Stalactite, Prairie-Dog Vil-
lage, and Fairy Scene, all in this one room of the
cave. In this chamber, the picture of wings over-
hanging, images on the ceiling, the stalactites, the
indented rugged walls, all these, and the awful still-
ness of it all, is ghoulish in the extreme. From
here, we pass into a subterranean crooked way
called Boston avenue, because of its resemblance
to the crookedness of the streets of " The Hub."
At the further end it widens, and is ornamented
with overhanging walls and beams, and side rooms
and chimneys, indicating the great activity of the
water which doubtless caused it.

Turning to the right, we come to Diamond Hall.
This is 90 feet long, 12 feet high and 10 or more
feet wide. The ceiling is indented and so finished
as to be arched, with here and there domes, and the
whole frescoed and adorned with beautiful wreathes
of crystal and coral, which have been forming
throughout countless ages. In the brilliant mag-
nesium light which the guide carries, every inch of
the walls of this room sparkles and scintillates, each
conceivable color and shade giving perfectly the
effects to the walls of diamond mosaic work. This

I2O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

room is indeed very appropriately called Diamond
Hall.

From here, we go to the grand art gallery of the
Cave, named Hall of Beauty. This matchless pal-
ace of pearl enraptures the visitor, and no language
is extravagant enough to express our praise, when
beholding the wondrous works of nature here,
where translucent stalactites of alabaster, with
drops of water trembling on their tips, sparkling
like myriads of diamonds, greet us. Cryptal
flowers of the most exquisite workmanship hang in
festoons from every crevice and corner. Sparkling
encrustations, reveling in beauty, the hoar frost of
the Arctic regions, and glittering like dew-drops
in the morning sun, are seen on every side. The
aesthetic decoration of the great arched ceilings
of Gothic and Greek architecture, with their per-
fect domes and castles wreathed and entwined with
sparkling flowers of the most delicate mould and
beautiful designs, is past all description.

Passing on to the further end of the Hall of
Beauty, the visitor is greeted by a pandemonium of
outlandish contortions, rightly named Dante's In-
ferno. Next we enter the Bridal Chamber. Here,
the curious has run riot. It beggars description.
On the floor of this Babel-like apartment, amid
stately statuary, we find a beautiful bride, and Lot's
Wife, while circling around in ghoulish glee on the

COLORADO SCENERY. 121

ceiling and casement, are wreathing reptiles, danc-
ing devils, acrobatic monkeys, beasts and birds of
every form, all in riotous postures. Airy creatures
here mingle with those of the infernal regions, rep-
resenting both pandemonium and paradise. In
this chamber, the geologist is puzzled and lost in
reflection, the poet is inspired and the painter has
a study before him. The weird wildness and con-
tortions one sees here, are sights never to be for-
gotten. One is amazed, awed and thrilled with a
sense of reverence, and feels that he should bend
his knee in adoration. One loves all the world
when beholding such sights, and would even hug
his mother-in-law, were she here, so great is his
wild happiness at having been blessed with the
privilege of witnessing such a marvelous sight, and
he commiserates those unfortunates who have not
seen it.

Next, we enter Crystal Palace. Not more antip-
odal are the scenes just described and those of the
chamber adjoining known as Crystal Palace. These
comprise four rooms closely connected, which are
in reality a casket of gems and jewels, and are the
very climax of all that goes to embellish, decorate
and beautify a cave. Here we saw the flowering
alabaster in its perfection. Unlike the gravity sta-
lactites, which grow from dripping water, this form
crystallizes from the atmosphere. The walls and

122 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

ceilings are closely malted or veneered with pure
white alabaster. The spurs or needles from one to
two and a half inches long, and in clusters, resemb-
ling chrysanthemums or chestnut-burrs, stand out
from the surface in the most graceful profusion
and as thickly as grass upon a lawn. These fade-
less flowers of crystal, interlooped, entwined and in-
terlaced into gorgeous wreaths and faultless fes-
toons of prettiest patterns, bright and brilliant,
glittering and startling, deck and grace this peer-
less palace. We must not neglect to mention the
Reception Hall in the Cave of the Winds, where in
every conceivable niche there are hundreds and
thousands of visiting cards, left here by those who
visit this wonderfully beautiful subterranean palace.
As long as memory lasts, we will recall with
intense pleasure this feast to the vision — this rare
combination of the sublime and the beautiful.

Our next visit was to the Garden of the Gods.
No one knows exactly why this valley was named
the Garden of the Gods. There is nothing espe-
cially garden-like in its appearance, but, doubtless
through "apt alliteration's artful aid," the name
has become greatly popular, and it would now be
foolish to quarrel with it or make any attempt to
change it after all these years. There are, how-
ever, suggestions on every hand that Titanic forces
have been at work here, and it requires but little

COLORADO SCENERY. 123

imagination to ascribe these innumerable quaint
sculpturings, these magnificent architectural rock
marks, these grand and imposing temples not made
with hands, to the agencies of the gods. Here are
to be found carved in stone by those cunning in-
struments of nature — the wind, the rain, the snow,
the frost, the sunbeam — curious and often gro-
tesque figures, irresistibly suggestive of forms of
life. Now, one sees the statue of liberty leaning on
her shield, with the conventional Phrygian cap on
her head; over there, is a gigantic frog carved in
sandstone; yonder, is a pilgrim, staff in hand.
Groups of figures in curious attitudes are to be seen
on every hand. The lion, the seal, the elephant,
are all here, and indeed, a lively imagination is not
needed to discover in this Garden of the Gods an
endless variety of imitative forms of human beings,
of birds, beasts and reptiles. All of these figures
possess curious interest, and attract wondering at-
tention, but the notable and majestic objects are
the Great Gateway and the Cathedral Spires.

Two lofty tablets of carnelian-colored sand-
stone, sit directly opposite each other, about 50
feet apart, and, rising to a height of 330 feet, form
the portals of the far-famed Gateway. Rising as
they do from perfectly level ground, these up-
thrusts present a strangely impressive spectacle.

The Cathedral Spires are of a similar character

124 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

to the Gateway, but their crests are sharply splin-
tered into spire-like pinnacles. The striking con-
trast formed by these crimson crags, outlined
against the deep blue sky and gilded by the high
white lights of the unclouded sun of Colorado, can-
not be described.

Paintings have been made in which artists strove
for this effect, but the result was bizarre and garish.
Art cannot reproduce it. What appears crude and
violent in colors on canvas, appears strong, bril-
liant and harmonious when beheld in nature. In
the Garden of the Gods, solitude is unbroken by the
residence of man, but we found here inanimate
forms of stone, quaint and grotesque suggestions
of human life. Here were hints of Athens and the
Parthenon, Palmyra and the Pyramids, Karnac and
her crumbling columns.

After their form, the most striking feature was
their color, which glows with an intensity of red,
unknown in any of the sandstones of the East. It
is impossible to describe the weirdness of this won-
derful garden, which, once beheld, can never be
forgotten. One has the impression of something
mighty, unreal and supernatural. It is truly a
Garden of the Gods, but of the gods of the Norse
Walhalla in some of their strange outbursts of wild
rage and uncouth playfulness. The scene is theat-
rical, and highly spectacular. The rocks here have

COLORADO SCENERY. 125

I

gone masquerading in all sorts of queer costumes
and characters. If one could live here for months,
he might find language flowing in its proper chan-
nels and be able to describe the savage grandeur of
the sight.

But one must hold his breath in the first stupor
of astonishment, and words are useless, worse than
useless to attempt such a picture as the Garden of
the Gods presents in its outlying wildness and
" ruinous perfection." To fully understand, one
must see for himself these relics of ruined strata,
these fanciful images of things seen and unseen,
which stand thickly over hundreds of acres like
mouldering ruins of some half-buried city of the
desert. There is little of tenderness or delicate
carving; these ghastly rents and seams are tragic,
and the grandeur of it all is terrible and gruesome
rather than beautiful. In the Garden of the Gods,
one feels that he is in the holy of holies, that he is
on the confines of another world, and that the veil
that divides him will soon be rent asunder.

' ' Here the New West its wealth unlocks,

And tears the veil aside,
Which hides the mystic glades and rocks

The Red Man defied.
This greenwood girt with tongue and flame,

With spectral pillars strewn,
Not strangely did the savage name

A haunt of gods unknown."

126 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Leaving the Garden of the Gods, we visited Glen
Eyrie, the site of a private residence owned and oc-
cupied in summer by General Palmer, whose winter
residence is in New York. Glen Eyrie is a most
interesting glen, and although not open to the pub-
lic, tourists are permitted to drive through the
grounds every day except Sunday. It is situated
in Queen Canon; and the character of the mono-
liths in this canon are even more wonderful than
those of the Garden of the Gods. The Major Do-mo
is a column of red sandstone, rising to a height of
300 feet, with a curious swell near the summit,
which far exceeds in diameter the base of the shaft.
It looks as though it might fall at any moment in
obedience to the laws of gravity. The effect of
one standing under the Major Domo is said to be
the same as when standing beneath the Leaning
Tower of Pisa, Italy.

We neglected to mention the Balancing Rock at
the entrance of the Garden of the Gods. This huge
rock is balanced in a manner opposed to all laws of
stable equilibrium, and is an object of special inter-
est to the tourist, and a favorite spot for photo-
graphing one's self on a burro.

Having seen so much of this world's grandeur, of
the everlasting hills, of nature in her most majestic,
capricious and fanciful moods, of savage wilder-
ness, of the beautiful and sublime, the gruesome

COLORADO SCENERY. 127

and grotesque, of all in nature that is full of sur-
prises and pleasure, it was indeed difficult for the
writer to descend to the commonplace, and when
we did come out of the clouds it was with a dull
thud. For once, we wished ourselves a poet that
we might invoke the muses and lay a rhythmic of-
fering on the altar of their shrine, thus immortal-
izing the picturesqueness of lovely Colorado, one
of the newest portions of the new world.

CHAPTER XI.

DENVER'S ODDITIES AND PECULIARITIES — SOME

STRIKING FEATURES OF THE COMMON-
PLACE ORDER.

It will not do to say farewell to Denver and Colo-
rado without a few notes and incidents that present
themselves to the eastern tourist here, and which,
coming under no particular head are, therefore, un-
classified.

Passing along the streets of Denver, one is at-
tracted by the peculiar names on some of the signs
above doors and windows of various business es-
tablishments. While waiting for a car one day at
a prominent street corner there, we were gazing at
the beautiful Colorado sky, the color of which has
its perfection in this State, very probably because of
the rarefied air. While admiring the bluest of blue
skies, our attention was attracted to the building
opposite, on which was the sign " Cool and High."
Now why it should be cooler just midway that
building, we could not imagine, for it certainly was
not so high as others near by. On inquiry we were
told Cool and High was the firm who did business
there.

I29

This oddity of names kept us on the qui vive for
others, some of which we remembered as follows :

A firm doing business in the northern part of the
city is Love and Joy; another man is " A. Beggar."
A tailor on Main street has his sign out " A. Swin-
dler, Tailor." We are told, few tailors will ac-
knowledge the same. On inquiry, we found this
particular tailor's name is Adam, which he invari-
ably abbreviates with " A." for he claims it is bad
enough to be A. Swindler, without having to be
Adam Swindler.

Then, there is a Fannie Toogood, a milliner,
here. Isn't it too bad she is too good for a milli-
ner? One Mr. Leadbeater has his sign out as a
plumber. His name is almost as appropriate to
his business, as are those of the firm of Salmon and
Trout, who are fish dealers here in Denver. Now,
since Mr. J. M. Salmon and Mr. S. L. Trout are
in the fish business, who dares reiterate with the
Bard of Avon that " there is nothing in a name? "

We gazed at a sign in the window of a popular
shoe-store for a long time, deliberating whether we
should walk in and take any risks. The sign read,
" Any man, woman or child can have a fit inside —
walk in." Now, the writer objects to having a
fit anywhere, whether inside or out, and the sign
struck us forcibly.

Aside from peculiar signs and odd names, there
9

130 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

were other things that attracted our attention along
the line of the commonplace in Denver. Although
we have traversed nearly the entire city, we have
yet to see shutters on any of the houses — inside or
outside. These eye-lid appendages to our eastern
homes are altogether unknown in Denver. The
people seem to have no use for them whatever.
And, as to the houses themselves, one has to go
miles to find a frame-house. We do not recall
having seen a single one, but are told some of the
oldest houses here are frame. There is a law
against building a frame-house in Denver, which
has been in existence some years past. That is the
reason one sees only brick or stone houses.

Speaking of the Denver houses, reminds me of
what President Harrison said when visiting Den-
ver, a few years ago, as the guest of the G. A. R.
of this city. In his address before a large assem-
blage, the President said, in part: "You have
fine public buildings and elegant business houses,
but your homes and your schools appeal to me as
the most distinctive features of your city. These
homes and schools tell me what the people of Colo-
rado are."

To return to the schools — the Whittier School,
at the corner of Twenty-fifth and Marion streets,
occupies a whole block. It has desk room for
i, 600 pupils, and has enrolled 1,480. There are 33

rooms in the building and 33 teachers. Although
the school attendance is 1,480 (a little colony in
itself), yet the order is such that the near-by resi-
dents are scarcely conscious of the recess hour, or
when the school is dismissed. It is a great sight
to witness the dismissal of the Whittier school, the
largest in Denver. The western people think so
much of their schools and the education of their
children that there are many jokes at their expense.

Driving through an isolated district of the State,
we remarked to the driver on the location of a
handsome little school-building, where there was
not a house to be seen anywhere. " Oh, that's
nothing," said the driver, " why, we have a school
out here where the whole shooting match belongs
to one family." "How is that?" we asked. "Well,
you see, the husband is the superintendent of the
school; his wife, the teacher, and their child, the
school." Doubting this statement, the driver de-
clared he could prove the facts in the case, and
even went so far as to say that after a while the
child (the capacity of this school) died, and the
mother scoured the country to find another child
to keep up the attendance. " Oh, yes," continued
the driver, " we're obliged to have schools here in
this State, if there is only one child to go to 'em,"
and we took his word for it.

There are so few colored people in Denver that

132 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

there is no provision for separate schools for them,
and the few colored children are admitted to the
white schools. It is a rare thing to see a colored
person here, and in over two months the writer
cannot recall having seen more than a half-dozen
of the colored race.

Denver has no markets. All marketing is done
at the stores and " meat-markets " (as some of
them are called), where meats as well as vegetables,
pickles, mountain trout, and so forth, are on sale.

One, coming to Denver, or most of the western
cities, has to learn how to market all over again.
Here, they do not buy tomatoes or fruit by the
peck, but by the pound. It seems rather odd to
hear purchasers ask for a pound of peaches or
pears, but that's the way they buy fruit here.

There are no cisterns in Denver. The water is
soft and delightful for drinking as well as for all
cleaning purposes. It is practically melted snow
from the mountains. The manner of irrigating the
farms here has peculiar interest for the Maryland-
er, where there is rain in plenty and irrigation is
not needed. There is a syndicate which operates
the irrigating ditches. These are run in every di-
rection, and branch off to the various truck-farms.
Each farmer has " his day " for irrigating his land,
and on these occasions the gates are opened and
the land watered, for which privilege and luxury he
pays so much per inch (not linear, of course).

DENVER'S ODDITIES. 133

Ashes are not gathered up by the garbage man
in Denver, but each house is furnished with an ash
pit at the rear of the back yard. These queer look-
ing arrangements lead the stranger to inquire as
to their usefulness, for they have the appearance
of the old-fashioned bake-oven, built of brick and
mortar. The ashes are deposited here, and here
they remain sometimes for six months and longer,
and, even then, on removal, are often found to be
alive. The nature of the coal here is said to be the
cause of this. Soft coal sells here for $3 per ton.
It conies from the mountains in the State and does
not smut, and its ashes are white.

Referring to the delightful climate, we were told
there is a town 62 miles from Denver where there
were but three mornings, from July to October,
when there was no frost. Every town has its pro-
vincialisms, and Denver is no exception. We were
surprised to hear a carving-knife called a " butcher-
knife." The creeks are called " cricks," and all
baggage is spoken of as " luggage." But the
queerest of all is that a farm is called a " ranch,"
and there are numerous jokes on the Easterner,
who expects the ranch to be anything else than
what it is. A popular lawyer in Denver tells a
story, the truth of which he vouches for, and being a
lawyer we dared not doubt his veracity in the least.

He says, a gentleman who came out to Denver

134 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

from Pennsylvania, being pleased with the city,
went back for his family to locate here. He at
once became an object of interest to his acquaint-
ances, who thought it wonderful that any man in
those early days had crossed the plains to that far-
away country of the Rockies and returned alive.
He was queried on all sides; and one fellow was par-
ticularly anxious to know how travelers lived out
there on the plains, what they subsisted on, and so
forth. The gentleman told him they were in no
danger of starving as there was plenty to eat.
" How do you get it, out on those barren plains? "
was the inquiry. " There are numerous ranches
along the road," was the reply. " Ranches, eh?
Do you encounter these ranches frequently? " He
was assured that there was a ranch at least every
five or ten miles along the road all the way across
the plains to Denver. " Ranches ! " the Easterner
again exclaimed with a puzzled expression. " See
here, are these ranches a very difficult game to
shoot?"

For cycling, Denver leads the procession. There
are more wheels to the square inch here than in
any other city in the United States. Everybody
rides a wheel — men, women and children. There
are said to be over 40,000 wheels here. The sur-
face is so level, the air so buoyant, and the rainy
days almost unknown, that cycling is as great a fad
in Denver to-day as it ever has been anywhere.

DENVER'S ODDITIES. 135

Bicycles literally overrun things, and they are
used in every line of business. Street-car com-
panies say they have lost $1,000,000 annually in
traffic since bicycles have become the rage.

In fact, one company went into the hands of a
receiver two years ago, alleging that the universal
wheel had impaired its earnings to such an extent
that it could not meet its interest demands. The
open weather and the fine, natural roads are largely
responsible for the popularity of the wheel, for it
is conceded that ordinary riders can use their wheels
daily for fifty weeks out of the fifty-two and not
suffer any annoyance from mud or snow. Add to
this the fact that neither lights, brakes nor bells are
required and the agility of the non-rider in taking
care of himself can be appreciated.

Denver is also said to be the only city in the
country where the bicycle vote controls elections
on municipal issues.

We cannot vouch for the authenticity of this,
but we were told that a young lady, standing on
the veranda of her home on a popular thorough-
fare, in five minutes counted 900 wheels passing.
Most women here ride diamond frames, and noth-
ing is thought of it. Nearly all lady riders wear the
divided skirt

Denver boasts a woman superintendent of
schools. Her name is Emma M. Hery, and she

136 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

had been a teacher in Denver schools. Miss Hery
is 23 years old, of charming personality, being a
fine talker and a delightful writer. She is an active
member of the Denver Woman's Press Club, and
has done some fine writing, having taken prizes for
her short stories. When the bicycle craze first
struck Colorado, Miss Hery learned to ride, and
she was so delighted with the experience that she
at once wrote " A Love Story on Wheels." Miss
Hery is a staunch Democrat, and was elected on
the straight Democratic ticket by a plurality of
2,818. Her opponent, also a woman, had a strong
following.

Visitors, that we should call " green " or " hay-
seeds " in the East, are here called " pilgrims " and
" tenderfeet." We fear the verdancy of our east-
ern innocence has long since classed us in this cate-
gory. It took the writer some little time to find
out what a burro is. We heard them talked of
quite a little before we realized a burro is only an-
other name for donkey, or " Colorado Canary
Birds " as they are called. They are very useful
in climbing the mountains, and must get their
name from the manner in which they burrow their
feet into the mountain pass or burro-trail, and thus
take a secure footing. They are safe climbers and
sure-footed. They know every inch of their
ground.

DENVER'S ODDITIES. 137

There are four leading newspapers in Denver.
Shades of get-in-the-push journalism, deliver us
from Annapolis' multiplicity, where there are a
half-dozen or more ! Denver's papers are The Re-
publican, The Rocky Mountain News, The Post and
The Times. All are progressive and up-to-date
newspapers, and each sells for five cents per copy.
Think of it — five cents. That's making money,
isn't it? It nearly took our breath when we pur-
chased copies of the various newspapers, and were
asked a nickel for each. We indignantly walked
off, exclaiming something about our eastern
papers selling for a penny and being a great
deal better. One thing that struck us about
these Denver papers was that no advertisements
ever appear on the first page. We rather like
this idea, and agree with the western editor
who says " ads." on the first page spoil the appear-
ance of the paper. But for news, these western
papers are not equal to ours. So far as Maryland
is concerned, she might as well be wiped off the
map, for there is never any news in Denver papers
from Maryland. How we longed to see even a
weather report from " Maryland, My Maryland,"
but longed in vain. We took the liberty to tell a
newspaper man here that our Baltimore Sun, the
leading organ in newspaperdom in Maryland, con-
tained, not only local and State news, but news

138 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

from every part of the United States, even Denver;
and that Denver papers wanted to take lessons in
progressive journalism from our Baltimore Sun.

Women, in Denver, take as much interest in pol-
itics as men. Perhaps we should qualify this by
saying some women. As we stated in a previous
chapter, they are privileged to vote on all municipal
and State matters, and several of them are judges
of election.

We were not a little amused to see barouches
filled with ladies driving about the city, preparing
for their fall campaign. They had displayed a con-
spicuous cover on their horses, informing the pub-
lic they were for " Bryan and Free Silver." Great
interest was manifested in the fall election in Den-
ver, when a vote to buy its own water-plant was
taken. An ordinance has been passed by the city
council compelling the car company, The Denver
Tramway, to heat all of its cars during the winter
season.

A young lady from the East visiting Denver de-
clared she was an A No. i cake-maker. Her hos-
tess gave her an opportunity to demonstrate her
ability in that line. The cake was a failure. Moral
— Cake cannot be made in Denver as it is made in
Annapolis or Baltimore. Less butter and less
sugar are required here, because of the altitude,
which is one mile above sea-level, and which ma-
terially affects the baking.

DENVER S ODDITIES. 139

One does not expect to find such fine stores and
business houses so far West as he sees here. Every-
thing that can be procured East may be purchased
here for almost the same money. We were par-
ticularly impressed with the elegant display in one
of the leading furniture houses here, that of Coop-
er, Powell and Shaw. The very latest and hand-
somest furniture of all kinds was displayed, the
" Dutch Marquetry " being the latest and most
unique in bed-room furniture. Prices compare
favorably with those of the East, although the
freight so far West is a big consideration. We had
the distinguished pleasure of sitting in a chair that
cost $150, and which had been sold to a Denver
lady, whose reception room it is to adorn. We re-
marked to the salesman that if it cost $150 to sit
down, we would prefer standing the rest of our
natural life.

There is something about these western people
that commends itself to one from the East, some-
thing that invites admiration. The Easterner's
pride is provincial. He sends out no invitations to
his fellow-countrymen to come and dwell within
his gates. The Westerner is different. He blows
his own horn, and wants the outside world to have
a finger in the pie he has made. He has long since
lived down the idea that " too many cooks spoil the
broth." " The East is a good place to be born,"

I4O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

some one has said, " but the West is a better place
to grow." One seems to sprout here. There is
something in the climate or the altitude favorable
to expansion — not of the imperialistic sort, how-
ever. Here the field is less circumscribed, and
more conducive to the sprouting tendency, which
is latent in those who, like the writer, have been
born into this vale of tears with an interrogation
point behind them.

CHAPTER XII.

KANSAS CITY — THE MID-CONTINENT METROPOLIS — ITS
EARLY HISTORY — ANOTHER CITY OF PHENOM-
ENAL GROWTH — ITS LOCATION AND CLI-
MATE— A GOOD PLACE TO LIVE IN.

Leaving- Denver, a night and day's ride over the
popular Rock Island route, brings one to the me-
tropolis of the mid-continent, Kansas City, a city
the growth of which is almost as astonishing as that
of the " Queen City of the Plains." While the
growth of Kansas City has also been " phenome-
nal," yet it has been healthy, natural and is now a
continuous growth.

During the first year of the war, business in
Kansas City was at a standstill, no money was in
circulation, and the municipality was paying its
debts in shin-plasters. As the government began
to issue paper money, a good deal of it was sent
here to pay the soldiers. This revived matters
somewhat, and during 1863 quite a number of wag-
ons were loaded for the Mexican trade.

In September, 1864, General Price made his cele-
brated raid through Missouri. He swept through

I42 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

the counties on the south of the Missouri river,
driving all before him till he came to the crossing
of the Blue, about seven miles east of Kansas City.
Here, he was met and disastrously defeated by the
Kansas and Colorado troops under General Curtis,
when he fled south into Arkansas. This was
known as the battle of Westport. Had Price suc-
ceeded in forcing a passage to Kansas City, he
would have been met by the entire male population
of the town, behind fortifications which they had
thrown around the city in all directions.

In 1864, the latter part of the year, the railroad
fever was started by the opening of a railroad from
Kansas City to Lawrence, and, at the close of hos-
tilities, Kansas City was rapidly recovering her
ground. However, the panic of 1873 and the lo-
cust plague of Kansas City in 1874, hurt Kansas
City's trade to a great extent. But misfortunes are
often pioneers of fortune. The people of Kansas
City were compelled to buy wheat for consump-
tion in Iowa and Missouri; and the grain market
of Kansas City, then in its infancy, received a great
impetus by being made the handler of this wheat.

With the balance of the country, Kansas City, in
1876, began to progress with great strides, which
continued steadily up to the collapse of the "boom"
in 1887-88. Then the panic of 1893 came. The
people here were too anxious to get rich in a hurry,

KANSAS CITY. 143

and while many are striving to attain riches to-day,
yet they are taking time to enjoy the pleasures
of living, which one cannot buy with money.

Business here to-day is being done on a safe con-
servative basis, and the outlook is very bright.

Kansas City has a magnificent railroad system.
Twenty-two lines enter this great mart and trans-
portation centre, and more are seeking entrance.
Some cities have prospered by reason of their nat-
ural advantages, and some cities by reason of their
energy, but Kansas City owes her advancement to
both. Geographical position and transportation
facilities have all to do with the growth of a city,
and Kansas City is no exception. Here was the
great bend of the mighty Missouri river and the
mouth of the Kaw.

The river turned north and the overland route
turned west at this point. It was the meeting and
parting place. The steamboats and the prairie-
schooners came together and separated here. All
around, 400 miles in every direction, was a country
marvelously prolific in every natural resource, and
a soil rich in every element necessary to the produc-
tion of everything grown in a warm and temperate
climate. Here was an immense alluvial valley 700
to 800 feet above the sea, 500 miles from the Great
Lakes, 1,000 miles from the Gulf, 1,500 miles from
the Atlantic and 2,500 miles from the Pacific.

144 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Here was the converging point; the conditions
existed; Kansas City was evolved. The early his-
tory of Kansas City is full of interest. The city is
said to have been founded in 1821, when the Amer-
ican Fur Company established a supply depot here.
This was done on account of the city's location at
the junction of the two rivers. In these early days,
as now, navigable rivers were the highways of com-
merce. It is said, the time is not far distant when
the Kansas, Missouri, Mississippi and Ohio rivers
will be the great highways of travel, the like of
which has not been seen in the world's history, and
Kansas City will take her place as one of the
world's capitals.

Some one has prophesied that with the opening
of the canal, joining the Gulf of Mexico to the Pa-
cific Ocean (a clear navigation at all seasons of the
year, barring ice, from Omaha to St. Louis, from
St. Paul to New Orleans, from Pittsburgh to Cairo),
Kansas City can make herself the world's granary.
Wheat, corn, pork and beef are what the world
(man and his domestic family) lives on, and Kansas
City will some day be the world's greatest market
for these staples. Kansas City gets its name from
the Kansas river, which flows into the Missouri at
this point, and the Kansas river gets its name from
the tribe of Indians of that name who lived in this
section. The Indian pronunciation of the name

KANSAS CITY. 145

was Kanzau, from which the abbreviation " Kaw "
comes. The French explorers wrote the word
" Kansas."

In 1825, the Indians surrendered their title to
the land on which Kansas City stands. The fol-
lowing year, Jackson county was formed with Inde-
pendence as the county seat. The many Indian
tribes that were sent by the government to the ter-
ritory west of Missouri made Kansas City their
trading point. This was a great support to the
town for many years. In 1832, the Mormons made
settlements at Independence and Westport Land-
ing (as Kansas City was then known), but a year
later, the citizens drove them out and they con-
tinued their march westward. In 1824, when trade
was established overland with Mexico, Kansas
City became headquarters for fitting out the wag-
ons. Freight was carried up the Missouri and un-
loaded here. The fine pasture around was also an
inducement to the freighters to feed the horses and
the oxen. This trade continued until the advent
of the railroads, which now do the same thing as
the wagons, carry Kansas City products and wares
throughout the entire West and Southwest.

In 1860, Kansas City had a population of 4,418;
to-day, its inhabitants number 250,000. In 1860,
Kansas City had but two newspapers, both week-
lies; to-day, it has four dailies — the Journal, the

10

146 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Times, the Star and the World — and several week-
lies. No city has made greater strides under more
unfavorable circumstances than Kansas City. Like
most other cities, the outbreak of the Civil War in
1 86 1 was a severe blow, its people having already
had a taste of the coming strife in their border
wars. No enmity of man for man was ever keener
than that developed in Missouri and Kansas be-
tween the "Yankee" settlers from the East and
the slave-owners. Kansas City had its experi-
ence already in the free-soil controversy and
Kansas wars of John Brown, his sympathizers and
followers. The city had a majority of loyal Un-
ionists, but being in a hostile state, she was repeat-
edly visited by bands of " guerillas." Trade soon
forsook her for Leavenworth and Atchison, and
her population dwindled to one-half. The mayor,
to protect the citizens from the secessionists, was
obliged to organize a regiment of United States
volunteers, and from this time the city was a mili-
tary post until the close of the war.

Kansas City is 750 feet above sea-level, while
Denver is one mile above, and is therefore more
than seven times as high. Coming from Denver,
the difference in the altitude of the two cities is very
perceptible.

Kansas City is built upon hills, and it is difficult
for one to go a block without having to climb one

KANSAS CITY. 147

of these hills, or go down one in the most gingerly
fashion for fear one will lose his balance and topple
over. The tourist, coming from Denver, with its
level streets, wonders why progressive, enterpris-
ing Kansas City does not have a " shoot the chute "
arrangement on some of these steep grades, or a
hoisting machine, by which the more weighty of
God's creatures may be lifted up and down without
extraordinary effort, or excessive respiration.

Because of the steep grades throughout the city,
there are few electric cars, nearly all the lines being
cable. One of these cable-lines running over to
Union Depot, goes down what is called the "in-
cline " — we should be inclined to call it perpendicu-
lar, for the steep grade, running over a trestle-work
as it does, reminds one of coming down Pike's
Peak. To the uninitiated, riding down the "in-
cline " for the first time is a thrilling experience,
and makes one's hair stand on ends like " quills
upon the fretful porcupine." There have been
accidents here, but not many, and the greatest care
is exercised by the car company to prevent them.

Kansas City, unlike the ancient metropolis,
Rome, is not built upon seven hills, but to the
writer it seemed to be built upon seventy times
seven. Because it is built upon hills, Kansas City
is a sort of rara avis. The occupants of its houses
can go to the street from most any floor. We

148 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

were not a little amused because of this peculiar fea-
ture. When visiting one of the public buildings,
we entered in the customary way, from the side-
walk. After " doing " the ground floor of the
building, we ascended the stairs and were shown
the sights on the second floor. As there was noth-
ing to be seen of interest above, we made our exit
at the rear of the second floor and were amazed to
find ourselves on the sidewalk without descending
any steps. Remarking on this, we were graciously
informed that nearly every floor of the buildings
in Kansas City was on a level with the street.
From personal experience in climbing, it did not
take us long to find this an apt illustration of its
hilliness.

The climate of Kansas City is not unlike that
of Maryland. In its normal state it is mild and
salubrious, but, like the little girl of legendary
lore, whose ungracious qualities we paraphrase,
when it is hot, it is very, very hot; and when it is
cold, it is horrid. August and September are the
warmest months here, but this year October had
her " innings." She wasn't going to be outrun
in the race with the mercury, and let her sisters,
August and September, outdo her, so she work-
ed herself up to fever heat and above it, and in
the middle of the month the mercury registered 94
degrees. " Do you often have this weather in Oc-

KANSAS CITY. 149

tober? " we asked one of the swear-by oldest inhab-
itants. " Oh, no/' was the quick response, " this
is altogether unusual, we haven't had a hot spell
like this in October for over 30 years." Evidently,
we were the " hoodoo," or maybe Kansas City was
extending us an unusually warm welcome; but we
preferred a cooler one, especially since we had left
Colorado in furs, and now had to fish out of the
bottom of our trunk a palm-leaf fan and organdies.
This is truly a great country where one can travel
from the temperature of one zone into the tem-
perature of another in the space of a night and
day. On the I7th of last October there was
snow on the ground in Kansas City, while on
the 1 7th of this October the temperature was
in the nineties. The winters here are unusually
mild. December is often as pleasant as May.
Driving is indulged in at Christmas the same as
any other time in the year as a pastime and a
pleasure, and poultry and stock can find outdoor
pasture nine months in the year. Kansas City, like
Annapolis, is a healthful place to live in. Her death-
rate is small compared with other cities of her size.
Kansas City's death-rate per thousand as compared
with that of some other cities is : Memphis, 24; New
Haven, 20; Baltimore, 19; Cambridge, 18; St.
Louis, 17; Hartford, 17; Reading, 14; Dayton, O.,
12; Kansas City, 10; Denver, 10.

150 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

To the geologist, Kansas City is extremely inter-
esting. Its vicinity is interlaid with what geolo-
gists term the upper coal measures. Although
these do not furnish coal, they furnish limestone
and sandstone for building purposes, and also
shales, fine clays and mineral paints. The city has
unlimited stone quarries, the veins of which are
from 1 6 to 18 feet thick. The bluff, or loess forma-
tion, has a thickness of some 80 feet; the clay from
it makes excellent brick.

Much of the limestone is hydraulic, and cement
is made from it. Kansas City has within itself all
the facilities for building houses. There is also
plenty of wood in the vicinity, and some one has
said there are groves and groves of from 30- to 50-
year trees, within 10 miles of Kansas City, that
would furnish all the interior finishings builders
would want. It is said, in this same territory wood
is given away. The Kansas City people don't burn
enough wood to make it an object of interest for
the country people to haul it to town.

Kansas City is of prehistoric interest. In the
masses of earth that have been hauled away from
the hills in building the city, all sorts of curious
relics have been found. Skeletons, one of which
was eight feet; and many of the bones found were
in masses of charcoal, tending to show that crema-
tion was practiced even in those early days. Axe-

KANSAS CITY.

heads, flint-heads, and portions of stone-houses
have been found in digging away these hills on
which Kansas City is built. To its first settlers,
the site of Kansas City presented a very rugged as-
pect. High bluffs, towering up from the river,
here and there seamed by deep ravines, certainly
appeared a very uninviting place, upon which to
build a city.

The early settlers, however, never dreamed that
their own town would extend farther than the level
ground beyond the river. This ground is not now
sufficient to accommodate the railroads, which
have formed a belt, encircling the entire city:
also Kansas City, Kansas, the city across the
river, the name of which was formerly Wyandotte.
Kansas City has now 22 railroad systems, with 58,-
225 miles of track. It has two more roads than
Chicago. The first railroad coming into Kansas
City was the Missouri Pacific. It commenced
building from St. Louis on July 4th, 1850, and
reached Kansas City in September, 1865.

Kansas City's railroads traverse 30 States and
Territories. 14 roads own their own terminals,
and there are 1,550 miles of switch-track in the city.
190 passenger-trains and 337 freight-trains arrive
and depart daily from Kansas City. Between 5,000
and 6,000 men are employed by the railroad here,
and an average of 118,000 tons of freight is hauled
daily.

152 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Kansas City, being practically at the centre of
this great spider-web of tracks, has the real control
of the business originated there, and is the gateway
through which must pass all passenger and freight
business for this territory. The advantages afford-
ed by the shipping facility and passenger conveni-
ence can be appreciated thoroughly only by those
who realize the volume of trade of the southwest
section. Having more railroads than Chicago, and
the area covered by them being more extended, and
more largely and variedly productive than the area
penetrated by the Chicago lines, Kansas City's fu-
ture is not in doubt.

If she ever expects to catch up with Chicago,
however, she must, like her, get water-transporta-
tion. All great cities in the world's history have
been built where they could reach the outside world
by ships and steamers. There is no exception to
this rule, either in ancient or modern times. What
have the cities of Glasgow and Manchester done to
bring the ships of the world to them? What did
the State of New York do at Hell Gate, and New
Orleans with her levees? What is Russia doing to
connect her seas? Instances without limit can be
cited to show how important water-navigation is
considered to the successful commerce of a city.

Water-navigation is the handmaiden of railroad-
transportation. When we can navigate the Mis-

KANSAS CITY. 153

souri river, the western roads will not have to pay
that large tariff to the eastern lines in order to get
their consignments to the seaboard; the Missis-
sippi will not be the dividing line on the " long
haul," but will be the starting and ending point,
and the western roads will dictate tariffs to the
eastern. The West dictates in politics, and so it
will also in conveyance and transportation, which
are virtually making the price of food-products for
the world. Kansas City, as we have said, is built
upon hills. Coming from the East, we should be
tempted to call them mountains, had we not seen
those towers of Colorado, the Rockies; these of
Kansas City are, however, only bluffs.

The city has cut her streets through these bluffs,
leaving them 20 to 50 feet high, to be subsequently
lined with residences and gardens, which, when
completed in its entirety, will make the city pictur-
esque to a degree. This makes the city drainage
perfect, and there is hardly any necessity to flush
the sewers, although it is done. There was con-
siderable newspaper comment recently, during the
long spell of dry weather, about the necessity of
flushing the sewers, and arrangements had been
made by municipal authorities with the fire de-
partment to do the work. A good soaking rain
came, however, after a drought of six weeks, and
there was no need of flushing.

154 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

The public square of Kansas City is a relic of
border times, when towns were built as forts around
an open square for the purpose of defense. It is
also copied from the Mexican style of laying off
towns.

All that can be done is being done by Kansas
Cityans to make their city a good place to live in.
The days of a struggling new town, where all are
after the acquisition of the dollar, is a thing of the
past. Society here is charming. It is not the " so-
ciety" which belongs to the old regime, the de-
scendants of which are a long string of aristocratic,
titled relatives besides their own immediate fam-
ily, and no money in the pockets of any of them;
but a society of intelligence and education has
grown up, and has impressed its ideas upon the
people, so that the public purse has been made to
pay for the grandest improvements. Kansas City
society stands for something. It is wide awake,
active, expanding in policy and progressive in its
men and methods, and from the time of its incip-
ient foundation its motto has been " Onward."

Kansas City's society men are its leading busi-
ness men. They are wide awake and progressive,
and believe their city is on another " boom." In-
deed Kansas City is always booming. The people
say it came into the world on a boom, and has con-
tinued booming ever since, but this particular

KANSAS CITY. 155

boom that is on just now, is to be the best boom of
all. When her system of parks, which will encircle
the entire city, is completed, Kansas City will in-
deed be a very pretty city. Since she has relegated
her smoky factories and packing houses to the bot-
toms and placed her residence streets conveniently
far away upon the hills, there will be nothing to
mar her picturesqueness; and fresh air and the scent
of green foliage will be free. She has every mod-
ern convenience — electricity; cheap telephones;
steam-heat-furnished houses and flats for rent; car
service, reaching by transfer all parts of the town
for five cents; stores, displaying the produce and
manufactures of every country and clime; horse-
markets; free libraries; public baths; public foun-
tains, and everything the model city affords. Kan-
sas City has 3,500 telephones in use; more, in pro-
portion to her population, than any other city in the
Union. There are no stores in Baltimore to com-
pare with the leading stores in Kansas City. One
of these is the elegant establishment of Emery, Bird
and Thayer.

Of the 160 miles of street-car service in the two
Kansas Cities, the Metropolitan Street Railway
Company operates 150 — almost a monopoly, but
unlike other monopolies, most liberal in its policy.
It has 31 transfer points, which, contrasted with
other cities (St. Louis, for instance), is very much

156 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

in favor of popularizing street-car service in Kan-
sas City.

The car-lines are electric and cable, and the cars
are the most modern, comfortable and safe, and
the service, polite and careful. The company car-
ries between forty and forty-five million passengers
every year, and issues between fifty and seventy-
five thousand transfers every day. You can get a
nine-mile car-ride in Kansas City for five cents.

Gas is still an important factor in lighting the
streets of Kansas City, and gas-lamps are to be seen
everywhere. The gas-works have a maximum
capacity for a city of 560,000. There are 225 miles
of main, and the annual consumption is 700,000,000
feet. The cost of gas is $i per 1,000. The gas
company pays 2 per cent of its gross receipts to the
city. There are 18,000 gas-stoves and ranges in
use in Kansas City. Several leading electric sys-
tems of the world are represented here by active
working plants, among which are the Edison, the
Sperry, the Fort Wayne, and the Thompson-
Houston system.

Kansas City was the first city in the world to
recognize the value of the patents of Prof. Elihu
Thompson, by installing a plant of apparatus of the
Thompson-Houston system, which has since been
most largely introduced and generally recognized
as the standard in arc lighting. Electricity is used

KANSAS CITY. 157

for many purposes besides those of arc and incan-
descent lighting. It runs elevators, printing-
presses, stationary machinery of all kinds, besides
being largely and increasingly employed in traction
work. In Kansas City, may also be witnessed such
novel uses of this important force as welding, sol-
dering, horse-currying and clipping, hair-crimping,
cooking and search-light applications. Electricity
is also used here quite extensively in dentistry and
surgery, and from the various plants may be pro-
cured currents of all kinds, alternating or continu-
ous, in any voltage and any quantity required.

Kansas City has numerous large and handsome
banks, beside trust companies, savings institutions
and loan associations. Kansas City, Missouri, with
Kansas City, Kansas, is a larger community than
Milwaukee, and is the sixteenth city in population
in the Union. It is the ninth city in bank clear-
ings. The exchange of money is the barometer
of trade. In 1898, Kansas City's bank clearings
amounted to $580,000,000. What clearer proof is
there that Kansas City has more than her normal
share of business? Her bank clearings and sales
are almost identical in amount. The capital of na-
tional and state banks here is $7,500,000; deposits,
$39,200,000.

Kansas City owns her own water-plant. Would
that Annapolis did ! The water-works are now the

158 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

city's property, and at an original cost to it of $3,-
100,000, are a paying investment. The receipts
for 1897 were $415,000. There are three reservoirs
with 86,000,000 gallons capacity, and with a pump-
ing capacity of 31,000,000 gallons in 24 hours.
The direct-pressure system is used. Like all oth-
er cities that take their water from the Missouri
river, the Kansas City consumers, if they want clear
water, have to do their own filtering.

Club life is an important factor in Kansas City
society. Society everywhere, as here, could not do
without the clubs, for the clubs are the spirit and
elixir of society. One finds few "thorough so-
ciety" men here who are not club men, and so-
ciety and club life are more or less synonymous.
Get into one, and you have a fair opportunity of
getting into the other. There are between 25 and
30 clubs in Kansas City, many of which have com-
modious and handsome quarters, and club life here
is found in evei> form — the athletic and sporting
clubs to the bicycle and gun clubs. The gun club
of Kansas City holds some of the world's records
for both trap shooting and target practice.

Kansas City has 93 churches, the Roman Catho-
lic church having the largest number of edifices —
19, the Presbyterian next — 13.

It is a thoroughly metropolitan city in all things,
and yet it has inhabitants who pay no rent. These

KANSAS CITY. 159

are not cave-dwellers, as they are in London and
New York, dwelling under the arches of great
bridges and in foundations, but squatters in tents
and log-houses along the river bank and on vacant
lots, seemingly no man's property. With all the
police vigilance, with all the grand free schools and
manual-training schools (of which we shall speak
later), it seems to be impossible not to have in this
vicinity, these disciples of Diogenes.

At the head and front of all that is progressive
and enterprising, with its indomitable workers who
have her commercial interests at heart, Kansas City
revels in the fact of " the only Kansas City," so far
as America is concerned anyway.

CHAPTER XIII.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, FIRE DEPARTMENT, LIBRARY AND
SCHOOLS.

Kansas City, like all other western cities, has a
large number of handsome public buildings. Many
of these are built after the fashion of the Chicago
sky-scrapers.

One of the largest and handsomest of Kansas
City's business blocks is the New York Life Insur-
ance Building. This building is 17 stories high
and cost over a million dollars. It is built of red
brick and brown sandstone, with marble trim-
mings.

The interior on the lower floor is elegantly fin-
ished in marble tiling and mosaic work, highly pol-
ished. The ceiling and side walls are artistically
decorated with floral designs in gilt. Besides being
the headquarters for the New York Life, the build-
ing is occupied by offices and banks, the Fidelity
Trust Company being located in commodious
quarters on the first floor.

Few have the privilege of visiting the tower at
the top of the building. Fortunately we were

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, ETC. l6l

among the few, and after securing passes, were
lifted above the " common herd " and had a fine
view of the city from the tower at the top of the
17-story New York Life Building.

There is no fire department in the United States
with a system which has attained such a degree of
perfection as the one in Kansas City. It was our
pleasure to visit the headquarters of this famous
fire department, and to witness several fire drills
here. The Kansas City Fire Department, in 1895,
carried off first honors in London, England, in a
competitive exhibition, over all comers. This de-
partment will be represented at the Paris Exposi-
tion in 1900. In its management and efficiency
the fire department is the pride of Kansas City,
and to this is due the low loss by fires here. Its
present status is: 7 steam-engines, 19 hose-reels,
i water-tower, 5 hook-and-ladders, 2 insurance
patrols, and i reporter.

There are 21 fire-engine houses in Kansas City,
and 77 head of horses in use in the service of the
fire department. The force consists of 160 men,
1 8 watch-boys, i secretary, i master mechanic, i
chief and 2 assistants. The chief is George C.
Hale, an inventor of several useful machines used
by the department. Among Chief Hale's invalu-
able inventions is the water-tower. It is 85 feet in
height, and throws an inch of water to the foot,
ii

1 62 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Another invention of the Chiefs is the double and
single set of swinging harness, also the combination
automatic telephone, telegraph and graphophone,
which if set in motion by the heat in a burning
building, arouses those who are asleep, and tells
them exactly where the fire is. The arrangement
is most complete and unique. The assistant chief
showed us how it worked, but to do so, he had first
to light a piece of paper and hold the flame to the
wire attached to the machine, as only heat of this
sort will set it going.

All the public buildings, stores and business
houses of Kansas City have this wonderful inven-
tion of Chief Hale's, and think it invaluable. If
there is a fire at Armour's packing house in the
middle of the night, this combination machine will
awaken Mr. Armour at his home in the city, and
tell him distinctly, "A fire in the Armour Com-
pany packing house," naming the exact floor or
part of the building burning. It is impossible to
describe the mechanism of this machine; to appre-
ciate it, one must see it work.

The dispatch with which the horses are hooked
to the engine and hose-carriage or hook-and-lad-
der, here, takes one's breath. There was an exhi-
bition given for our benefit. In one and a half sec-
onds from the time the alarm was sounded, the
double-horse team was in the street, and within

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, ETC. 163

three seconds, the four-horse truck. As the gong
sounds, each horse is in his place, the swinging
harness drops, the men clasp it, and all is done and
the horses and truck are out in the street before one
has time to take his breath.

During the year, there has been added to the ser-
vice a new fire-alarm system. The new system was
installed July ist, 1898, and consists of a metallic
circuit — the switch-board being placed at Fire De-
partment Headquarters, where all alarms are re-
ceived and transferred. Each engine-house is pro-
vided with a long-distance telephone. The system
is divided into six circuits, which are so arranged
that by throwing a switch, all engine-houses on the
different circuits can be instantly connected into
one circuit. When an alarm of fire is given from a
subscriber's telephone, it comes direct to the Cen-
tral Telephone office; the operator there transfers
the same over a trunk line to the operator at Fire
Headquarters, thus putting him in instant commu-
nication with the subscriber who is giving the loca-
tion of the fire; the operator at Fire Headquarters,
on receiving the location of the fire, immediately
transfers the same, by throwing a switch and giv-
ing the location of the alarm to all the engine-
houses at the same time. This system is also con-
nected with the Fire and Police Signal boxes, lo-
cated on the street corners in different parts of the

164 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

city. There are in service 120 signal boxes which
are connected directly with the switch-board at
Fire Headquarters. When the boxes are used for
fire-alarm purposes, the number of each box is re-
corded through a relay, and the number appears on
a tape; in addition to having the location thus
recorded, the operator is placed in direct com-
munication with the police officer or citizen giv-
ing the location of the fire, thus enabling the
fire department to ascertain the exact location of
the fire, which often proves of great value in lo-
cating fires in large buildings and unfamiliar places.
The use of the telephone in connection with the
fire-alarm boxes very often enables an officer or cit-
izen to communicate with Fire Headquarters and
turn in an alarm of fire at some distant location of
the city.

Kansas City has several libraries, but her new
public library is the one which attracted us, and of
which we shall speak. The library was opened to
the public in 1895 in a new and handsome granite
building of two and a half stories, built after the
Greek style of architecture, and occupying half a
block.

Engraven in granite around the exterior of the
building are the names of famous poets and men of
letters, such as Bryant, Whittier, Irving, Emerson,
Agassiz and others. The library contains 47,000

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, ETC. 165

volumes, 5,600 of which are juvenile books. The
school board keeps the Children's Library intact,
appropriating funds for that purpose. It is cus-
tomary in the children's room to placard the dates
of celebrated historical events.

On October I9th, the day of our visit, at the en-
trance to this room was displayed a placard telling
that this was " Cornwallis' Day," and the anniver-
sary of the close of the Revolutionary War. In
Annapolis it was celebrated as " Peggy Stewart
Day." The idea is a good one, and calls to the
mind of the school children (large numbers of
whom visit here daily), the important events in his-
tory. We were delighted to see so many children
reading historical books in this room and looking
for references on some school topic, with their
school-books beside them.

The establishment of a public library is the chief
event in the history of a city's intellectual progress.
From the amount of money expended in this way,
more healthful entertainment is to be had from the
reading of books and newspapers than from any-
thing else. Society is what men and women seek,
and a good book is the best companion one can
generally find. Kansas City's library cost $200,-
ooo. In the rotunda of the library is a handsome
brass memorial tablet to George Sheidley, the
Kansas City philanthropist, who bequeathed $25,-

1 66 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

ooo for the public library. We were impressed
with several inscriptions painted in conspicuous
places in the rotunda; one of which was: "There
is nothing that solidifies and strengthens a nation
like reading of the nation's own history; whether
that history is recorded in books, embodied in cus-
toms, institutions or monuments."

The American people are greedy for knowledge,
and eminently recognize that the printing-press is
the greatest agent in the dissemination of knowl-
edge. To this end there is a reading-room, where
beside books, are to be found files of newspapers
of all the prominent eastern and western cities.
Here, the traveler, provided he hails from a city of
any degree of importance, may go and read his
town's papers to his heart's content. On the sec-
ond floor 'of the library are the Art Gallery, Wo-
man's Club Room (these western cities revel in
women's clubs, of which there are any number),
High School room, Board of Education room, and
rooms of the superintendent and assistant superin-
tendent of schools. In the Art Gallery is a col-
lection of handsome paintings loaned by the Art
Association here. In this collection are 23 oil-
paintings by Raphael, del Sarto, Titian, Fra An-
gelico, Rembrandt, Velasquez, Murillo and others
—all the works of the best European copyists, from
the gallery of L. Pisani, Florence.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, ETC. l6/

The paintings are the same size as the originals,
and framed identically. The collection, which is
known as the best collection of art in the West, was
presented to the Kansas City Art School by Wil-
liam R. Nelson in 1896, with the essential condi-
tions that all fees charged for admission were to be
devoted to purchase additions to the collection, and
that the gallery be open on Sundays. The paint-
ing of the Sistine Madonna is the best copy in ex-
istence. Another very handsome work of art in this
collection is an allegorical scene of " Wind, Show-
ers, Spring." The Three Graces, Venus and Mer-
cury. It cost $4,500 and weighs 500 pounds. The
basement of the library building is set apart as a
museum, and is filled with all kinds of curiosities,
war relics, Indian curios, and so forth. Kansas
City is proud of her public library, and she has
reason to be, as it shows the great strides she has
made intellectually as well as in every other way.
She has seven other libraries beside this one of
which we have spoken.

What shall we say of the Kansas City schools?
Indeed, there is so much to be said, we scarcely
know where to begin. The first public school-
house was erected in Kansas City in 1868 — think
of it ! only 31 years ago ! and to-day, no State in the
Union has better schools and greater educational
facilities than Kansas City. Boston, the Athens of

1 68 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

America, as old as she is, one of the first Puritan
settlements, had better look to her educational lau-
rels, lest the infantile city of the mid-continent
wrest them from her. The present number of
Kansas City's school-buildings is 26 white and 8
colored. There are in all 500 teachers here. The
white children attending school are 18,912, the col-
ored, 2,608. The assessed valuation of the public
schools in Kansas City is $64,00x3,000. Among the
schools (" Ward Schools " as the grammar schools
are called), it was our pleasure to visit, was the
Whittier school. This is one of the best con-
ducted and most thoroughly equipped schools in
the city, and is situated at the corner of Indiana and
Peery avenues. There are enrolled here between
900 and 1,000 pupils, with an average attendance
of 850. The principal is Mrs. Josephine Heer-
mans, whose salary is $175 per month. She has
17 assistants, whose salaries range from $65 to $75
per month. The teacher of the kindergarten de-
partment, whose hours are from 9 a. m. to 12 m.,
receives $50 per month. Western teachers, you
see, are much better paid than those in the East.

There are no separate primary and grammar
schools in the West as in the East. The two are
consolidated and taught in the same building.
Nearly every school has its kindergarten depart-
ment, taught by three-year graduates of some well-

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, ETC. 169

known kindergarten schools of instruction. Peo-
ple in the West believe in the kindergarten work,
and have proved its efficacy in pupils who have
gone into the High School all the way from the
kindergarten as the beginning.

Recently, a Kansas City High School student
said he had no trouble whatever with geometry.
It seemed to him he had studied it all his life, so
natural were the figures. Then he recalled that he
had learned these same figures and angles in his
folding work in the kindergarten, years before.
We hope to see a kindergarten department in the
Annapolis school in the near future; for kinder-
garten, taught philosophically, prepares the child
for that which is to follow, makes him think and
reason, teaches form, color and outlines, and lays
the foundation for future usefulness. It makes
school a pleasure for the little ones and yet prepares
them, step by step, for the graded department.

At this particular kindergarten on this particular
occasion, the children were being taught the differ-
ent fruits and vegetables, their outline and color.
To impress this, cards were given them on which
they outlined in worsteds of appropriate color the
fruit in question. Some of the work was very well
done. Then, they were taught about the growth
and cultivation of this fruit, and supposing they
were farmers and some of them city people at

WESTERN WANDERINGS.

the stores and markets, they bought and sold their
products. The supposition was almost as realistic
as was David Harum's horse-trading " supposin'
twar'n't Sunday." Children enter the primary or
kindergarten departments, as parents prefer, at the
age of six, and graduate into the Central or Manual
Training High School at the age of fourteen.

The first-year primary class is perhaps one of the
most interesting in the Whittier school. The
teacher, Miss Baker, is bright and happy, and en-
thused with her work; naturally the class is what
the teacher is, an unusually bright and interesting
set of little ones, as interested in their work as their
teacher. Miss Baker's method is the Cornell
method of teaching the little ones from paper dolls
and mounted pictures. They were having a lesson
from the picture-cards when we visited them.
It was really a lesson in Greek mythology, which
seems preposterous to teach children of six years
old, but which to be' appreciated, must be seen.
The little ones are taught the contour of the
Greek face, the features and the Greek style of
dress. They handle the pictures as tenderly as
they would their dolls, and when the teacher asked
for those who would like to tell the story of the
pictures, all hands went up, and all were anxious
to tell.

A few were chosen, and we shall not soon forget

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, ETC.

how intelligently these little tots told who was
Zeus, Apollo, Aurora and other gods and goddess-
es represented in the pictures they held. Some
one may ask of this method of teaching, " What is
the worth while? " We know of no better answer
than a conversation that took place between the
teacher and a little six-year-old. " Oh, Miss Bak-
er, guess whom I saw this morning?" "I don't
know, Mary," said the teacher, " tell me." " I got
up very early this morning," said the little one,
" and I saw Aurora." " And what color did she
wear? " asked the teacher. " Oh, she was all in a
bright rose color," said the child, showing the con-
ception she had formed of the goddess of the morn-
ing. The class study the art pictures, and the dia-
logue lessons are interesting and helpful. The chil-
dren learn to express themselves well, and this
means much. The teacher is doing a wonderful
work which will tell for itself later on.

There is one bad feature in the Kansas City
schools, which seriously affects the progress of
work in the kindergarten and primary departments,
and this is that children are permitted to enter
school any day in the year. This disorganizes the
classes and makes more work for the teacher, and
is unfortunate for the child. For the best inter-
ests of all concerned, children should only be
allowed to enter school twice a year, in September
and February.

172 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Calisthenics is taught in the Whittier school
after the German system of Carl Betz. The
method of teaching geography here is very suc-
cessful. It takes away from that study, distasteful
to most pupils, the grind and humdrum part of it.
It broadens their ideas and teaches the children
what man is here for, how he has built cities and
made towns. It teaches them of the raw materials,
the manufacture, the product, the distribution.
The lessons are divided into 18 topics, and two
weeks are given to each topic. Reading is also
taught in a most interesting and profitable manner
in the Whittier school. Great attention is paid to
supplementary reading. The children in all grades
read comprehensively and exceedingly well. They
demonstrate the conception of what they have read
by writing an extract of the reading lesson in their
own language. At first, we were inclined to doubt
the wisdom of putting such reading into the hands
of the children, but reading the extracts was the
" proof of the pudding." The third grade read
Hawthorne's "Wonder Book," Bunyan's " Pil-
grim's Progress " and " Robinson Crusoe." The
fourth grade read Ruskin's " Ethics of the Dust,"
and "The Tempest." The fifth grade read Bry-
ant's translation of Homer's " Odyssey " and
"Miles Standish." The sixth grade read "The
Merchant of Venice " (the Riverside Park edition)

PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, ETC.

and " Evangeline." The seventh grade read six
books of the "Iliad," "Julius Caesar," " Henry V.,"
" Macbeth," " Emerson's Essays " and " The Lady
of the Lake."

Such reading as this gives the children power.
It gives the pupil grasp in all parts of his work, and
is a pleasure to the high schools, when these pupils
enter there well trained, well drilled and ready to
take up the more advanced work. The Whittier
school is only one of the perfectly conducted ward
schools of Kansas City, and typical of what these
excellent schools are. It is not a difficult matter to
discern that western people think and believe " ed-
ucation is the chief defence of nations," and that
" our schools are all the days and nights of our ex-
istence."

CHAPTER XIV.

BITS OF THE CITY'S PROGRESS — HER POSTOFFICE,

PARKS AND THE CENTRAL HIGH SCHOOL

BUILDING.

One of Kansas City's principal streets is Balti-
more avenue, which bids fair to have a succession
of fine buildings upon it. The Equitable Life In-
surance Company of New York has just selected a
site upon this avenue where it will build a $1,000,-
ooo structure. The Physicians' Building and
the Labor Temple are two other edifices that
will shortly be put up, and will add $1,500,000 more
to Baltimore avenue. But the most important
building upon this thoroughfare, to the heart of a
Baltimorean, is the magnificent new hotel, The
Baltimore, completed at a cost of several hundred
thousand dollars, and opened to the public for the
first time on June loth last. It is one of the finest
hotels in America, and will compare most favorably
with the best of them in New York. The Balti-
more was built by Mr. Bernard Corrigan, a mil-
lionaire Irishman. Mr. Corrigan's wife is a native
of Baltimore, and she was permitted to christen the
new hotel — hence its name.

BITS OF CITY S PROGRESS. 175

The decoration of The Baltimore follows the
Greek style in coloring and architecture. Retreat-
ing panels in circular form are enriched with car-
touches combining the elements of the Baltimore
arms, adapted in their form and proportion to clas-
sic types. The Baltimore arms are also prominent
in the dining-room, which is a handsome colonial
interior.

Kansas City does not mind spending money to
please her people. She believes in enterprise and
progress whether the cost to obtain it be large or
small. Every year, the city spends any amount of
money on the streets, and has adopted one of the
finest systems of sprinkling the principal thorough-
fares every night. At the parks, six months in the
year, free entertainments are given, such as band
concerts, theatricals, picnics, electric pictures, and
so forth, only costing the car-ride to and from the
park to see them. And what of her parks? The
city has been wisely planned for future develop-
ment. Her advantages created some difficulties
and suggested some improvements. After the
proper location of railways, by which every part
of the city is easily reached, then the enterprise of
these lines established beautiful private parks.

Among these are Troost, Budd, Washington and
Fairmount — embracing many hundred acres. To
supplement this, the city acquired by gift from one

176 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

of her own citizens, a magnificent natural park of
1,134 acres. It has a frontage of nearly three miles
along the Blue river, and is so diversified by stream,
hill, valley, forest, meadow, some precipitous bluffs
and deep ravines, that the highest achievements of
the landscape gardener and the master touches of
nature's handiwork may each be seen at a turn in
the road. This great gift was appropriately ac-
knowledged by a public acceptance, June 25th,
1896, attended by nearly 20,000 people. Fair-
mount Park does not belong to the city, but is
owned by a company. It contains 60 acres; is
well managed, and its beauties are enjoyed in sum-
mer by Kansas City's thousands. Its superinten-
dent is one Mr. Warfield. There are a number of
cottages at the park occupied by Kansas City
people during the heated months.

There are a large dancing-pavilion, theatre, rus-
tic summer-houses, an artificial lake, together with
various attractive features characteristic of all
parks. It is reached by electric railway and car-
riage road, and is about seven miles from the city.
With its numerous inside parks, connected with the
general system, Kansas City promises to be one of
the brightest and prettiest cities as well as one of
the healthiest and happiest.

The present Kansas City postoffice is nothing
to boast of. Business is being done in an old build-

BITS OF CITY'S PROGRESS. 177

ing which is very dilapidated and much the worse
for wear. A handsome and commodious govern-
ment building of granite is in process of construc-
tion near by. It has been eight years in building,
and the delay in finishing it is a great source of an-
noyance to the postoffice officials here, who are
much overcrowded in their work. There seems to
be no definite time set for its completion, however,
but when completed it will have cost over $2,000,-
ooo. One would never take the tall, heavily-set
country farmer with chin whiskers a la hayseed
variety, for the postmaster; but this is he, and his
name and title make him known to the world as
Col. S. F. Scott.

He must be a politician with a big " pull " or he
never could have been appointed postmaster, for
he knows absolutely nothing about the workings
of the office over which he is supposed to reign su-
preme. We began to question him as to the re-
ceipts, management, and so forth, and after a series
of " I don't know's " he politely informed us we
were "too much for him" and as politely turned
us over to another gentleman with an unpro-
nounceable and an unspellable name. He in turn
turned us over to some one else, and we began to
despair lest we were "too much" for the whole
postoffice department. There is always luck in
three's, and the third gentleman (a Mr. Jarboe),

12

178 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

who at least knew his business, politely showed us
the internal arrangements of the Kansas City post-
office. To him, we are indebted for much of the
following information: There are seven lady
clerks employed in this office, two of whom work
in the city mailing department, and five who do
clerical work or serve at the stamp windows. Last
year there were $600,000 worth of stamps sold at
this office. Twelve to fifteen tons of mailing mat-
ter pass through the Kansas City office daily. The
letter-mail alone amounts to from 1,500 to 2,000
pounds daily, and there are from n to 12 tons of
second-class matter per day. On Wednesdays and
Thursdays, this amounts to 22 tons, because the
weekly papers on these days increase the mail's
weight.

To the assistant superintendent, Mr. D. F.
Clawges, we are also indebted for information.
Small letters are a great source of annoyance at
the postoffice, also letters containing keys, coins
and other hard substances. These are sometimes
torn open by the stamping machine and cause
trouble. And what shall we say of the stamping
machine — this wonderful evidence of man's genius,
thought and mechanism! The Barr-Fyke ma-
chine for stamping letters is the one in popular fa-
vor. This is the invention of a Kansas City man,
Mr. Barr, a railway postal clerk on the Sante Fe

179

Road, who not having the time to perfect the ma-
chine, enlisted the interest of Mr. Fyke, also a
Kansas City man. Running regularly, the Barr-
Fyke machine stamps easily 40,000 letters per hour,
but under pressure it may stamp from 60,000 to
100,000 per hour. The die, with date, and so
forth, is changed every half-hour.

We saw the stamping machine in operation both
in Denver and in Kansas City and the result was
wonderful. This office also operates the Barry
Postal Supply Company's stamping machine, man-
ufactured in Oswego, N. Y. ; but this does not work
as smoothly as the Barr-Fyke, and will not stamp
postal cards. The machines are worked by an elec-
tric motor. The Barr-Fyke machine has needles,
and the Barry machine is worked by a belt arrange-
ment.

The Kansas City postoffice is complete in its
management. There are 94 carriers, 14 substi-
tutes and 89 clerks. Each carrier works 8 hours
per day, and is supposed to walk 18 to 20 miles
daily. There is no body of men who do their work
at the office with more dispatch, and without or-
ders, than these carriers. Each man knows his
work and does it in the best possible manner in the
least possible time. The carriers mark the time of
their arrival and departure from the office by means
of a key, corresponding with their numbers, that
registers automatically on an electric clock.

l8o WESTERN WANDERINGS.

In Kansas City, as in Denver, the carrier deliv-
ering the mail will also collect it from the residents
when desired, a great accommodation for those not
wishing to go to the nearest box, sometimes two or
three blocks away. The carriers in the West her-
ald their approach by a whistle, like that of the
watchman's in the East. There are only 275 letter-
boxes in Kansas City, a small number for a city of
225,000 inhabitants. The heaviest mail is that for
the Bank of Commerce and the Armour Packing
Company. The former at one delivery frequently
receives a mail-pouch full of letters, and the mail
for the Armour Company is so heavy they send a
wagon to the office for it.

In a previous chapter, we have spoken of one of
the Ward schools of Kansas City, which are prepar-
atory to the high schools. Two years ago, there
were three high schools here, two large and one
small, beside a colored high school. The three high
schools are now consolidated and the Central High
School, an elegant and commodious building, cor-
ner of Eleventh and Locust streets, is the one high
school of the city, with its adjunct, the Manual
Training School. The Central High School has a
seating capacity of 1,678 pupils, and an average at-
tendance of 1,500 pupils. There are 50 teachers in
the building, about equally divided in number be-
tween males and females. Of the 25,000 pupils in

BITS OF CITY'S PROGRESS. l8l

enrollment in the Kansas City public schools,
3,000 of these are in the high and manual training
schools.

Two lady clerks are employed in the office of the
high school, one, a graduate of Ann Arbor, acts in
the capacity of substitute in case of sickness or ab-
sence among the regular corps of teachers. In the
office are large blackboards showing the hours of
recitation in the various departments of school
work, and one may glance at the board and know
just what study is being taught in each room, and
by what teacher. Another good feature is that the
attendance is registered on this board, and at a
glance the visitor may see just how many pupils
are in school that day, how many absent and how
many tardy. This does away with the annoyance
of looking into the roll-book to satisfy the Board of
Trustees on this point. One of the lady clerks at-
tends to this work, besides receiving excuses for
absence and tardiness, thus relieving the principal
of this duty.

The principal of the High School is Prof. E. C.
White, with Prof. I. I. Cammack as assistant prin-
cipal. The school is graded very much like a col-
lege, the classes being Freshman, Sophomore, Ju-
nior and Senior. The average age of graduation
is between 17 and 18 years, although one bright
boy in the present senior class is but 15 years of

1 82 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

age. The Kansas City High School cost $35,000.
The people are proud of their high school, and
justly so. They think nothing too good for the
schools in the West, and the sooner this feeling is
cultivated in Annapolis the better for her home
school. Last year's graduating class numbered
243, the year previous 253, and this year's class
numbers 300 graduates. All the schools in the
West are co-educational, but the girls are in the
majority, being 2 to i. High schools here call at
8.30 a. m. and close at i p. m. There are six reci-
tation periods, during the day, of 45 minutes each.

At the close of the period, electric bells ring in
all rooms in the building, and the change is made
in various departments of study. Pupils who do
not recite go to the study-hall. A number of stu-
dies are elective, and open to individual students as
their powers qualify. To those not taking all
branches, the intermediate period is employed in
the study-hall under the supervision of a teacher.
The seating capacity of this room is 200. Of the
six recitation periods, there are four in which every
student is compelled to recite, the other two are
optional.

The principal is a western man and a graduate
of the Missouri University; the assistant principal,
beside being an A. B. of a western university, has
taken a post-graduate course at Johns Hopkins,

BITS OF CITY'S PROGRESS. 183

Baltimore. Among the interesting departments
visited, was the chemical laboratory, where Prof.
Peters was experimenting with hydrogen gas be-
fore a well-prepared class of bright students. The
class in mathematical astronomy, and that in litera-
ture, where the teacher was giving a lecture on
Chaucer, were also very interesting.

Five languages are taught in the school beside
English, viz.: French, German, Latin, Greek and
Spanish. Although Chicago not long since claim-
ed that she was first to introduce into her public
schools the study of Spanish, that language has
been taught for the past five years in the Kansas
City High School.

This country, being contiguous to Spanish terri-
tory, Spanish is essential to business and trade, and
is therefore taught in the public schools here. The
teacher of Greek is a young lady, a graduate of
Ann Arbor. Greek is an elective course, but the
classes are large, the teacher being exceedingly
popular. The Latin teacher is Prof. Minckwitz,
son of the noted professor of that name at Munich.
No higher compliment could be paid Prof. Minck-
witz than that his Latin books have been recently
adopted as text-books in the schools of New York
city by the board of education there.

In the department of physical geography, each
pupil is provided with a mounted globe. The in-

184 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

structor finds study from these globes much more
profitable than from maps, especially in studying
meridians and circles and determining longitude
and latitude. This class, at the time of our visit,
was analyzing limestone found in localities near
Kansas City.

In the botanical laboratory, the class was study-
ing the commercial sponge beneath a powerful
magnifying glass. In the room where drawing is
taught, where the talent, latent in so many public-
school children, is developed in these Kansas City
boys and girls, the pupils were busy copying from
models and still life. Here were models for anat-
omy-drawing, and flowers, fruits and birds. Later
on, they will be taught to draw from life, and mod-
els will pose in historic costume and character for
the class.

A novel feature of these western schools is that
they each have a matron. She is a kind-hearted,
motherly woman, fond of children, and interested
in their welfare. To her room, which is large, com-
fortable and home-like, the sick and ailing children
are sent. She looks after their comfort and min-
isters to their wants, and if the case is serious, tele-
phones for a carriage and has them sent to their
homes. On wet days, she sees that the pupils re-
move wet clothing and shoes for dry ones. She is a
friend to all the girls, and to the motherless, a

BITS OF CITY'S PROGRESS. 185

mother. Some pupils come from homes not blest
with this world's goods. These, the matron sees,
are provided with warm winter-clothing and such
things as are needful. A great amount of good
is accomplished by the matron, whose Christian life
and character cannot fail to have a beneficial influ-
ence throughout the entire school.

One of the pupils of the Central High School,
Arthur Thompson, a bright lad of 14, is ambitious
to enter the United States Naval Academy, at An-
napolis, and to this end he is preparing himself.
He told the professors of his desire to graduate
from the school that sent out Dewey, Schley and
Sampson, and they have taken a peculiar interest
in the boy, and are encouraging him in every pos-
sible manner. He has a bright face and converses
intelligently, and to all appearances is blest with
such qualities of grit, nerve, ambition and determi-
nation as Deweys and Schleys are made of.

The Kansas City Central High School is an in-
stitution that shows the city's advancement along
the line of education. " Knowledge is power " and
the young man and young woman here are made to
know and feel its power in these monuments of
learning in the West.

CHAPTER XV.

WHAT OTHERS THINK OF US MUNICIPAL HEAD-
QUARTERS THE KANSAS CITY JAIL OTHER

PLACES OF INTEREST.

" A prophet is not without honor save in his own
country," and so it is with the articles of sustenance
that go to support the prophet's life. One has to
come West to know what others think of us and
our oyster- and fish-produce in Maryland. There
is a " Maryland Oyster House " in Denver, but we
turned up our noses at the very idea of eating
oysters so far away from base.

At Kansas City, we were not a little amused to
see on the menu of a fashionable cafe, " crab meat
a la Maryland"; under oysters, " Baltimore extra
selects"; under lobsters, "Baltimore a la Mali,"
the prices of these exclusive Maryland dishes vary-
ing from 50 to 75 cents per single serve. Mary-
land is famous everywhere for her luscious bivalves
and shell-fish.

Most buildings in Kansas City, even though
comparatively new, are dirty and smoky looking,
because of so many factories, perhaps. In this re-

WHAT OTHERS THINK OF US. 187

spect, Kansas City is the Pittsburgh of the West.
One cannot wear linen and have it spotless very
long here. A man in duck trousers would be a
novel sight on the streets of Kansas City, and a
lady cannot wear a white dress more than once.
Little specks of greasy smut float about in the air,
and lodge everywhere. These same greasy parti-
cles of soot are no respecters of persons, and one
riding in the street-cars soon gets a dirty face.

The City Hall, though comparatively a new
building, is very dingy looking. It occupies one
block, and is seven stories high. In the "6o's,"
the ground on which the municipal headquarters
now stand could have been purchased for $200;
but to-day, it could not be purchased for $200,000,
so great has been the boom in Kansas City real es-
tate. We cannot speak too highly of the courtesy
shown us at the City Hall by the officials, and
the interest they took in explaining the workings
of the several departments there. The Kansas City
police department has 140 patrolmen, 10 sergeants,
4 lieutenants, 4 captains and 10 detectives.

Several rooms in the City Hall are appropri-
ated by the detective department. Here is to be
found a gruesome array of knives, pistols, clubs,
and so forth, each of which has a history, and most
of which have been instruments of death.

Here are dark lanterns that have figured in rob-

l88 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

beries; one of them is the lantern of the notorious
Kennedy, the train-robber. There are parapher-
nalia of opium joints, and gold bricks that confi-
dence men have palmed off on the unwary.

Here is the rogues' gallery, where there are over
1,000 photographs of men and women thieves.
Among these is the picture of Jesse James, the
bandit, and the Taylor brothers, who killed a
caravan of Mormons. There have been seven
hangings in Kansas City, the gruesome evidences
of which — the hangman's knots — are displayed
here in the cases. In the detective departments
there are whole outfits of burglars' tools, and im-
plements for safe-robbery.

The old method of photographing criminals for
future identification is replaced by the new one of
measurement. This is called the Bertillion system,
named for its inventor, a Frenchman. By this
method the criminal is measured — head, trunk,
limbs — and his entire measurement recorded. It is
always accurate, and no two individual measure-
ments are identical. The record of the measure-
ment is in the nature of a cipher, and if three num-
bers are telegraphed by the police of another city
relative to a criminal, the officials immediately rec-
ognize that criminal's identity by means of the
Bertillion system. The system is considered inval-
uable.

WHAT OTHERS THINK OF US. 189

Perhaps the most unique and complete arrange-
ment in any of the departments is that in the tele-
phone office. Here, the chief operator is kept
busy. His is no sinecure position, for every two
minutes some officer calls up, reports and asks if
there is anything new. There is an automatic reg-
ister that records by telegraphy the name of each
officer, his number and the box from which he is
reporting. There can be no mistake, and no offi-
cer can report for another by this arrangement.

The fire and police alarms are unique. There are
1 20 boxes, and in less than an hour every officer
knows of every accident, fire or anything of inter-
est to the department, that has happened through-
out the city. Citizens are furnished with emer-
gency keys, and in case an officer is not about at
the time of a fire or an accident, they can turn in
the alarm to the department.

We visited the noted Kansas City police court,
where so many famous cases have been tried. The
Humane Society has its offices in the City Hall.
The agent is Col. J. C. Greenman, an officer of the
Civil War. He takes great interest in the work,
and has enlisted the sympathy of the public school
children, 4,000 of whom are enrolled as members
of the Band of Mercy, and who declare they will
" speak for those who cannot speak for themselves."
The Kansas City jail does not compare with the

WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Baltimore jail which is the pink of cleanliness and
in perfect sanitary condition; this one is not.
Kansas City is in Jackson county, and is one of the
two county seats, the other being Independence.
There are, therefore, two county jails. There is
also a county marshal, who attends to all of the
criminal business of the county.

The fact of the county having two county jails,
which were provided by a special act of the Legisla-
ture, is a little puzzling to strangers. There are
fifteen deputies. The Kansas City jail has at pres-
ent 155 prisoners, 60 of whom are negroes, and
20 of whom are females. Five are in for murder,
awaiting trial. In this State they never hang a
woman. A negress in jail here who confessed the
murder for which she was arrested, is serving a term
of 50 years. There have been only seven hangings
in this State — the last execution was on March
3Oth, of this year. Lynching is unknown here. The
prisoners are fed twice a day, at 7.30 a. m. and 1.30
p. m. Good, wholesome food is served them from
a neat and clean kitchen. The cooking is done by
steam. It was a sorrowful sight to see a number
of children among the prisoners, one a boy of only
ii years, who had snatched a pocket-book. A
white boy of 13 years said he was there for stealing
a horse, but that his father had " put him up to it."

What amount of home missionary work there is

WHAT OTHERS THINK OF US.

for the good people who want to evangelize the
world ! Among the prisoners is the notorious Im-
boden, a relative of the General of that name. He
is an extremely clever fellow, and well educated.
He started a bank in Kansas City on 35 cents,
" roped in " the moneyed men of the town, and
bought out two other banks, all on 35 cents. An-
other of the distinguished (?) prisoners is a first ser-
geant in the United States Signal Corps, who saw
active service during the late war with Spain, and
who was in the charge on San Juan Hill. He is in
jail here for having stolen a lot of copper wire be-
longing to the government. He is an interesting
talker, and well informed on Cuba and Porto Rico,
and took pleasure in showing us a number of pic-
tures he had photographed of various scenes at
those places.

Missouri is said to have the largest penitentiary
in the United States, in which there are at present
2,600 prisoners. In the county jail of Kansas City
there are at present 49 prisoners serving time, and
65 at the Independence jail; the others are awaiting
trial. A chain-gang of the prisoners serving time
in the jails of both county seats is to be formed, and
the men put to work on the county roads. The
county doesn't believe in supporting the prisoners
in idleness for an indefinite number of years.

One of the most delightful places to visit in

WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Kansas City is the Elks' Home, corner of 7th street
and Grand avenue. The club house and grounds
occupy a space of 1 12 by 1 13 feet, and cost $40,000.
The building is the Wisconsin building from the
World's Fair, and was brought here from Chicago
in sections. Indeed, the Elks' handsome club
house is made up of three buildings from the
World's Fair — the Indiana, the Fisheries and Wis-
consin buildings.

On entering the foyer, decorated with palms and
tropical plants, and hung with elegant tapestry and
handsome oil-paintings, the mellow light from the
large stained-glass windows above the double stair-
way of the Wisconsin building sheds a subdued
glow; and one stands charmed for a moment by the
pleasing effect, which is indeed artistic. There are
340 members of the B. P. O. E., No. 26, of Kansas
City. Of these a large number are bachelors, and
have sleeping apartments at the club, where the
dormitory is handsomely furnished.

The second floor of the building is appropriated
for reading-rooms, pool-rooms and the lodge-room.
In the last mentioned is the mounted head of an
elk, a very fine specimen. It has twelve antlers,
six on either side of the head, and is illuminated
with a red, white and blue incandescent light, and
the effect is very beautiful. This head has been in
possession of the Kansas Elks for over 20 years.

WHAT OTHERS THINK OF US. 193

In another room are the horns of a steer which
measure seven feet from tip to tip. One of the bil-
liard tables, exquisitely carved, took a prize at the
World's Fair. There are also several handsome
paintings here from the World's Fair, and a num-
ber of pictures of Indians in costumes made of elks'
teeth. When one realizes the elk has only two
teeth, he can appreciate how long it takes to ac-
cumulate enough for a garment, and how valuable
it must necessarily be.

One of the handsomest apartments in the Elks'
Home here is the bar, the side walls of which are
made of panels of glass one and a half inches thick,
which were portions of the Fishery Building at the
World's Fair. There are 20 tons of glass in the
walls, and each panel has an iridescent backing in
green and looks as though grass and ferns are
growing behind it. The frieze is ornamented at
intervals with a bow of tiny gondolas, each bearing
an incandescent light. When the prism chande-
liers are lighted, the scene is one of fairy land. The
Kansas City Elks are very proud of their handsome
club house, which is said to be the most elegantly
equipped Elks' Home in the country.

In seeing the sights of Kansas City, one is sure
to take in the Mount Candy and Cracker Com-
pany's plant, at the northeast corner of 9th and
Santa Fe streets. Here, there are " sweets for the
13

194 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

sweet," and it is interesting as well as instructive
to see that candy, like everything else, ourselves
included, is fearfully and wonderfully made. The
Mount Candy and Cracker Company has a plant
occupying 80 by 100 feet. Their building is five
stories high and they employ 120 hands, half of
whom are women. The firm does a large business,
and on the day of our visit it shipped three car-
loads of candy, one order, to a firm in Joppa, in
the central part of the State. Three car-loads of
crackers had also been shipped to the same firm a
few days previous.

The greater part of the candy in this factory is
cooked by steam in a vacuum, the thermometer
registering 260 degrees. An interesting feature of
candy-making is that of the " drops," which are
moulded by machinery into long sheets, that when
cool are so brittle the " drops " easily separate.
Rolling and twisting candy into sticks is also a
method in which there is not a little art. In the
caramel department of the Mount Company there
is one girl whose fingers are so deft and skillful in
the art of wrapping caramels, and she works so
rapidly, one can scarcely see her fingers; she really
makes them "fly." She averages 800 pounds of
wrapped candy in six working-days, and earns from
$7.50 to $9 per week, while her sister laborers earn
only $3.50 per week.

All candy is not made of sugar; for cheaper

WHAT OTHERS THINK OF US.

grades, a great deal of glucose is used. The moulds
for the better grade of candy are made of rubber,
those for cheaper grades are made of starch.

The cracker department is also interesting in its
details. Here, seven barrels of flour are put into
one hopper at a time and made up into dough.
The factory averages 40 barrels of flour per day for
the best goods, and from 60 to 70 barrels for the
ordinary goods. The base of nearly every cracker
is a vanilla wafer, and from these are shaped and
moulded all other crackers and plain and fancy
cakes. The dough is rolled into thin sheets by
machinery, and baked in an immense oven, on re-
volving metal shelves. In this way, at an even
temperature, there is no such thing as burning the
crackers. At each revolution, some are removed,
and others placed in the oven. Thus, an immense
amount of work is accomplished in the least pos-
sible time.

Neatness is everywhere apparent in the Mount
Candy and Cracker Factory, which is a well man-
aged and thoroughly equipped establishment. Al-
though visitors are not generally allowed, through
the courtesy of the management, the writer was
afforded the pleasant privilege extended the
chosen few of seeing the inside workings of the
candy factory, and of having the novel experience
of actually walking on candy — a rather unusual
occurrence in every day life.

CHAPTER XVI.

THE ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY THE GATEWAY OF

THE WESTERN FARMER AND STOCK GROWER
HOW THE KILLING IS DONE.

Everybody has heard of the great Armour Com-
pany's packing-houses, and everybody eats some-
thing in the course of a year that has passed
through either the Armour's plant at Chicago or
the one at Kansas City. To go through one of
these plants is a sight one never forgets.

The Armour Packing Company's plant in Kan-
sas City is situated partly in Missouri and partly in
Kansas, and there is reason for crossing the line of
these two States, as we shall see later. The
ground-acreage covered by the buildings, and used
for other purposes, is 30 acres. The floor-acreage
in the buildings is 90 acres, and that of the cold-air
rooms, 30 acres.

The storage-capacity is 200,000,000 pounds.
The Armour Beef House of Kansas City is the
largest in the world, being seven stories high, with
a storage-capacity of 15,000 dressed cattle, and
covering an area of 300 by 500 feet. There are

ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 1 97

i, 800 employees at the Armour Packing Com-
pany, who clear the building at the mid-day hour in
five minutes. It is a sight worth seeing to witness
this army of workers — men, women and children —
pour forth from the main entrance at the noon
hour to get their luncheon. It reminds one of a
volcano belching forth humanity.

The distribution of the products of the Armour
Company extends to every country in the world.
In the various departments of the company's plant
almost every trade, art and science is employed.
In the lard-packing room are tin cans, barrels and
hogsheads filled with lard, thousands of which are
packed daily, and shipped to all parts of the world.
All the tin cans and pails used for packing are made
on the premises. There are 14 ice-machines here,
producing a refrigeration equal to the melting of
1,350 tons of ice every 24 hours. There are 6 en-
gines that run the ice-plant and pump the air into
30 acres of cold storage. These engines were made
by the Frick Company, of Waynesboro, Pennsylva-
nia.

All refuse is drawn off into tanks, and the grease
refuse is shipped to the Armour Company at Chi-
cago for soap making, as no soap is made at the
Kansas City plant. Cleanliness is a dominant
characteristic throughout the plant, and the tidiness
of all the departments is remarked by the visitors.

198 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

The " Silver Churn " Butterine rooms are as clean
as the kitchen and pantry of a model house-keeper.
The butterine capacity is 100,000 pounds daily.
We spoke of the plant extending across the line of
the States of Kansas and Missouri. By an act of
Legislature, butterine is not allowed to be manu-
factured in the State of Missouri. This department
is therefore across on the Kansas side of the plant.
In the butterine department, a large number of
men and women are employed in moulding, rolling
and wrapping in paraffine paper and linen, the
prints and rolls of butterine, which are packed and
shipped, and which the unwary cannot tell from the
genuine article, " all wool and a yard wide."

The daily killing-capacity of the Armour Pack-
ing Company in Kansas City is something start-
ling, but the following figures are correct; and he
who doubts may come here and see for himself with
what dispatch the hog, the cow, and the sheep for-
feits its life to sustain man's. The killing is quick-
er than lightning and like it; the striking never oc-
curs twice in the same place. There are 12,000
hogs, 4,000 cattle and 5,000 sheep killed here daily.
When we say killed, we also mean cleaned, dressed
and sent into the refrigerating room. We saw
hogs going into the refrigerating room in ten min-
utes after we had seen those same hogs alive.
Everything is done with neatness and dispatch, and

ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 199

every man has some particular part in the work of
the great machinery in this plant.

The cattle are herded in a large shed, all unmind-
ful of their fate. They are lifted up a chute, a door
raises and they enter their death-trap, a small box-
like apartment, into which, as they enter, they are
dealt a stunning blow between the eyes with a
sledge-hammer.

The men employed for this work are skilled in
the art of killing these animals, and sejdom miss
the aim. In most cases, death is instantaneous,
but when it is not, the animal is shot. Like human
beings, some die harder than others, but to the av-
erage animal, death comes quickly. There are two
cows in each pen and six pens on each side, making
twelve in all. Every time the cattle are run in, the
men, two of whom do the killing, kill an average
car-load of cattle, which is 24. Immediately after
the killing, the animals roll out, are attached by the
hind legs to an iron hook, lifted to the cog over-
head and carried to one of the largest rooms in the
building, where hundreds of men are at work tak-
ing off the hides and heads, and cleaning the cattle
yet warm in their life's blood. In this room, one
actually " wades in blood " to use the extravagant
expression of the renowned " Teddy." Here,
skilled laborers are employed. One man takes the
head off quicker than you can wink.

2OO WESTERN WANDERINGS.

He knows just where to stick the knife, and is so
accustomed to the work, he can take a cow's head
off with his eyes shut. The heads are split, the
brains taken out and the head ground for fertilizer.
Nothing in this world is wasted. Everything is
utilized, and just here we have one of the most for-
cible illustrations of this truth. The horns are
mounted and used for various things, useful and
ornamental; the skins are tanned and sold for leath-
er; the hair is for plaster-mixing, and the intestines
for sausage and pudding. Nothing is wasted, even
the blood of the hogs is used for purifying a certain
kind of sugar, and the best blood is caught in vats
and sold. Another set of men take off the legs at
the first joint, and this is also done with extraordi-
nary dispatch. From the time a cow is killed, until
it is skinned, cleaned, halved and hung ready to be
sent into the refrigerating room, is so brief, that we
actually saw the muscles of several animals twitch
as they were on their way to the cold storage.

The killing is all done in the upper stories of the
building. This requires a great deal more of ma-
chinery and accompanying expense, but better fa-
cilitates the work. The skins drop down seven
stories and are tanned on the lots below.

The lard is purified in vats in the upper stories of
Armour's, where it is churned with paddles and
made as white as snow. It then passes through
pipes, and is drawn off into cans and kegs.

ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 2OI

The electric-light capacity of the plant is enor-
mous. One can understand this when we tell you
it is equal to that of a well-lighted city of 25,000
inhabitants, or in other words, the electric-light
plant here would be sufficient to light a city three
times as large as Annapolis. There is a govern-
ment inspector employed in each department of the
plant.

Perhaps one of the most unique and interesting
parts of the plant is that where the hog-killing is
done. When we say 12,000 hogs are killed daily
at this plant, it seems fabulous; but when we tell
you we saw hogs sent into the refrigerating room
ten minutes after they were alive and squealing,
now all scraped, cleaned and dressed, you may
credit the foregoing statement.

The hog is ushered into his death-trap under pro-
test, and grunts and quarrels to the last of his hog-
ship. Strung up by the hind legs they are sent
along a cable to the apartment where the " stick-
ing" is done. With the blood streaming from
them, they are rolled into vats of scalding water,
hoisted by machinery to the seventh floor, and as
they ascend, the machinery scrapes them clean. At
the seventh floor, they pass along the cog before
an array of skilled workmen, each of whom does
some part in the work of cleaning and dressing the
hog. There appears to be an "endless chain" of
these hogs.

2O2 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

All animals killed here are in good condition,
and most of them are fine specimens. Even the
cattle killed for canned goods are not of the poor
class one would expect this line to be. Any visitor
from the East who fails to see the Armour Packing
Company's plant, misses a great sight indeed, and
an object-lesson from which much valuable infor-
mation is to be obtained. A cordial invitation is ex-
tended by the company to the general public to
visit its plant during working-hours, and courteous
guides are furnished for the purpose of showing the
visitor the evolution of the hog, the steer, the sheep
and the chicken into the varied and manifold prod-
ucts that the great Armour Packing Company
places on the market.

It must be remembered that this wonderful pack-
ing-house is the gateway through which pour the
contributions of the western farmer and stock
grower, whose supplies keep the company's chim-
neys smoking. The finished products of this great
Armour Packing Company are enjoyed by you,
and all of the carnivorous public.

Kansas City promises to be a city of conventions,
and to this end she has prepared herself by building
the largest auditorium in this country.

Convention Hall, for so it is called, is a marvel in
size and architecture, and a monument to the enter-
prise of a great city which " has on a big boom "

ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 203

in the closing years of this famous nineteenth cen-
tury. It is the hall in which the National Demo-
cratic Convention will be held in July and is situ-
ated at Thirteenth and Central streets, four blocks
from the retail district of the city. It has been
classed by travelers as one of the largest and most
perfectly constructed auditoriums in the world.

Convention Hall was built by the people of Kan-
sas City. A series of entertainments were held for
which 25-cent tickets were sold. Everybody pa-
tronized, and the funds were soon raised to build
the hall, which cost $400,000. Its seating-capacity
is 25,000, and its most unique feature is that there
is not a stair in the building.

Although there are three galleries, the ascent is
made by an incline, a winding entrance, reminding
one of a burro-trail up a mountain pass. The Kan-
sas City Convention Hall has the distinguished
honor of being the only building in the world in
which one can go from pit to dome on a bicycle.
Although such an immense building, occupying
four blocks and seating 25,000 people (three times
as many as the inhabitants of Annapolis), the Con-
vention Hall can be cleared in a few minutes, as
there are any number of exits on each of the four
streets by which it is bounded and from the bal-
conies and roof-garden. It is estimated that the
hall can be emptied at the rate of 5,000 per minute.

2O4 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

The first story of Convention Hall is of the re-
naissance style of architecture, the second story
in peristyle, with groups of columns. The build-
ing is of bridge construction, without a column,
the roof being supported by great steel girders that
span its 200 feet of breadth. Its interior is white
with brown trimmings. Its acoustic properties are
perfect and received especial praise. Hon. Wil-
liam J. Bryan, who last June addressed the head
camp of the Modern Woodmen of America in the
hall, said later:

" It is hard to conceive how Convention Hall
could be improved upon for the purpose of large
public gatherings."

Maurice Grau and Dwight L. Moody, the evan-
gelist, also praised it highly.

Anywhere in the building the speakers or singers
on the stage can be heard with distinctness. In
Convention Hall, all entertainments are held, and
it is usually filled when anything is going on there.
To see the lower floor, boxes, stalls, loges, and
galleries filled, to gaze on 25,000 people assembled
in one building, to look out over this sea of human
faces is indeed thrilling and awe-inspiring. Chi-
cago has made several attempts to build such a hall,
but before completion the structure has burned
down or collapsed, as it did recently. Kansas City,
therefore, bears the palm in convention halls, and

ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 2O5

in this, as in several other things, outranks the
Windy City.

It was our good pleasure to see Convention Hall
in almost every phase of entertainment, and thus
get an idea of its usefulness. One of these was the
Megaphone Minstrels, given during carnival week
by 125 of Kansas City's society business men, who
were well trained by their musical director, and
many of whom did themselves credit in rag-time
melodies and the cake-walk. The Megaphone
Minstrels are always a feature of carnival week, and
their announcement means a crowded house and a
successful entertainment. The " Karnival Krew
Bal Masque " was also held here. This was a novel
sight to an Easterner. The floor was cleared for
dancing, and thousands of characters, historical
and grotesque, mingled here in a sea of colors.

Dinahs and Topsys danced with Deweys, Schleys
and Uncle Sam; ballet girls with monks. Hand-
some and valuable prizes were given the best cos-
tumes and groups. The " chain-gang " was a tak-
ing group of ten men in prison garb, who did the
lock step.

The most unique figure was the double woman.
She had two faces, two bonnets, two aprons and
two fans, each of which she used with dexterity.
Her shoes turned the toes both ways. She walked
backward and forward with equal cleverness, fan-

2O6 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

ning herself in either position. Indeed it was im-
possible to tell whether she was going to school or
coming home.

An interesting feature of this particular evening
was the grand march, in which there were over
1,500 people. The Chinese in Kansas City are a
numerous colony. They took as much interest in
the carnival as those to the manner born. They
paid $2,000 to the San Francisco colony to get the
costumes worn in the parade. With their accou-
trements, flags and musical instruments, they pa-
raded the hall several times to the strains of their
music, which, however, is without harmony or
symphony.

Another entertainment held at Convention Hall
during our sojourn in Kansas City was the national
female bicycle race, in which there were eight con-
testants for the world's championship. France,
Germany, Sweden and America were represented,
the latter by a Kansas City, a Minneapolis and a
Chicago girl. In its new phase, Convention Hall
presented another feature of its usefulness. The
track was elevated to an angle of 50 degrees.
Twelve laps was a mile. The contest lasted six
nights, an hour and a half each night. The cham-
pion of America, the Chicago girl, won each night,
and therefore holds the championship of the world
among female bicycle riders. The contest was ex-
citing throughout, and very close.

ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 207

On another occasion, the great Convention Hall
was the scene of the Kansas City Horse Show. A
horse show anywhere is a very swell society event,
and swelldom is always there, and " Solomon in all
his glory was not arrayed like one of these." Horse
shows have long since become full-dress parades
for society women, and the Kansas City show was
no exception. The arena was covered with tan
bark, and there was no sound of horses' hoofs. The
arena was- 112x200 feet, surrounded by a 1 2-foot
promenade. The fine array of carriage-horses,
saddle-horses, high steppers and hunters was the
strongest argument that the horse has by no means
" had his day," nor is to be relegated into innocuous
desuetude. The horse show here compares favor-
ably with that of New York, and is as great a so-
ciety event.

There seems to be nothing that cannot be held
in the Convention Hall, as it is capable of meta-
morphosis from a Priest of Pallas grand ball, and
Megaphone Minstrels to a horse show and bicycle
race-track. Western cities are famous for carni-
vals. They begin in mid-summer with the Peach
Carnival in Colorado, the watermelon and the
grand husking party, the great flower carnival at
Colorado Springs, and extend all along the States
to Illinois, where Chicago has her Fall Festival.
Denver's carnival is called the " Silver Serpent,"

2O8 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

and the floats and characters of the street-parade
carry out the idea in a shimmering, glistening mass
of color and iridescence. It is held the last of Sep-
tember, and like Katisha's left elbow, people come
miles to see it. It is not, however, to be seen only
on presentation of visiting-card, but it is free. This
year it was a grand success, and merchants did a
red-letter business. Denver's carnival lasts a week.

Kansas City " goes one better " ; her carnival
lasts ten days. She has christened hers the " Priest
of Pallas" and " K. K. K.," which transcribed
means the " Kansas Karnival Krew." Kansas
City's street-fair far excelled that of Denver. Here
the street-fair had displays of every mart of trade
represented in this most enterprising mid-continent
metropolis. There was machinery showing the
workings of soap factories and manufactories of all
sorts. Two firms had an exhibition of how they
manufactured overalls, shirts, ladies' waists, dresses,
and so forth. In the street-fair, we saw each step
in the work; and here there were dozens of working
men and women with the machinery buzzing
around them, each doing his or her own particular
part of the garment. Was there ever such enter-
prise in the East? Think of the expense that one
of these exhibits in the street-fair entailed; yet the
business men here do not hesitate for that.

An admission of 10 cents was charged at the

ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 2OQ

street-fair during carnival season, and hundreds of
thousands of dollars were the gate receipts. This
is a hustling, bustling community. Everybody is
wide awake and up and doing. There are no idlers
here, no drones in the bee-hive, and this is the se-
cret of their success.

Kansas City is building a Paseo, or public park
along her principal thoroughfare. It is to have
fountains, a colonnade and when completed will
cost $100,000.

About ten years ago — from '85 to '89 — the bot-
tom dropped out of real estate here, and a number
of moneyed men went down with the crash. Busi-
ness now, however, is booming, and ground, that
once sold for $100 an acre, cannot be bought to-
day for $100 a square foot.

There are not many wheels in Kansas City.
There are so many hills, bluffs and " inclines " that
riding a bicycle is almost too great a physical feat
for the average Kansas Cityan. Kansas City is in
this respect also unlike Denver, where there are
40,000 wheels and one-fourth of the population,
men, women and children, ride a bicycle to the det-
riment of the car companies.

CHAPTER XVII.

KANSAS CITY SIDE-LIGHTS AND A FEW CHORDS OF ITS
SOCIAL HARMONIES.

There is a Curfew law in Kansas City. At 9
o'clock in the evening the Curfew sounds in warn-
ing notes, and all children on the streets unaccom-
panied by parents are taken in charge by the legal
authorities.

Kansas City is a distinctly representative com-
munity. There are people here from all points of
the compass, and all parts of the United States —
North, East, South and West. There are many
elegant homes and handsome residences here, and
a great deal of wealth is represented. There are a
number of multi-millionaires in Kansas City.

There are beautiful drives throughout the city,
and no city has finer boulevards. Kansas City dif-
fers from most other cities. One can go up into a
building two or three stories and still be on the
ground floor. Kansas City, like Chicago, has its
street-railway tunneled under some of its streets.
One of these tunnels extends for three blocks
through a bluff.

Theatres are open on Sunday in Kansas City, as

KANSAS CITY SIDE-LIGHTS. 211

they are all through the West, and Sabbath-break-
ing horrifies the Easterner.

Until recently the names of the streets were not
marked at the street corners, but an appropriation
of several thousand dollars has been made, and
the signs bearing the names are fast going up.
Some streets have the names carved in the side-
walks at the street corners. In the past year, there
have been 50 miles of sidewalk laid in Kansas City,
where there was formerly board walk.

Kansas City has the largest manufactory of agri-
cultural implements in the world. It has five pack-
ing-houses and these, together with its stock-yards,
employ 8,321 persons, equal to over 40,000 people
directly dependent on them for a living. Their
killing-capacity is 10,000 cattle, 25,000 hogs and
6,000 sheep daily.

Its manufactures consist of smelters, saw-mills,
breweries, iron and steel, brick and clay, flour and
meal, candy, furniture, box factories, agricultural
implements, harness, planing-mills, lime, soap, ice,
oil, tinware, mattresses, paints, carriages, cooper-
age, syrups, glue, copper works, brooms, awnings
and gas. One-third of the cattle in the entire
United States as given by the Agricultural Depart-
ment in Washington, is here in the Kansas City
market.

There are numerous handsome stores in Kansas

212 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

City, and they do an extensive business. The mer-
chants believe in advertising their stock, and the
daily papers are full of "ads." of all business
houses in the city. One street in the shopping
district is called Petticoat Lane, because the ladies
frequent this locality. Most of the stores are de-
partment stores, and one can here purchase any-
thing from a shoe-string to a brickhouse. The
largest establishments have tea-rooms in the upper
floors, where a delicious luncheon, with the best
service, may be had at moderate prices.

A feature of the schools is the cloak-rooms. At
the Manual Training High School each pupil has
his or her own locker with a key, the same as a club-
man has. In this way there is no trouble from loss
of wraps or misappropriation of overshoes.

In the West there is always an " Orpheum "
theatre and a " Trocadero " in every city, and Kan-
sas City is no exception.

Among the prominent cigar stores there is one
of which Jesse James, son of the late notorious
highwayman of that name, is proprietor. He is
very proud of his name and the notoriety attached
thereto, and is largely patronized.

Kansas City is all we have claimed for it, and
more. It is a typical western city, filled with east-
ern people, yet it is far ahead of us in many ways.
We, of the South and East, are a cultured people

KANSAS CITY SIDE-LIGHTS. 213

with high ideas and aspirations. Let us awake
from the lethargy in which we have too long in-
dulged! Let us get some of this enterprise and
progressive spirit of the West, and let us attain that
high place in the business world for which our capa-
bilities and environments have so eminently fitted
us!

CHAPTER XVIII.

" ARMOUR ROSE " SELLS FOR $2,5OO — THE FAMOUS

KANSAS CITY STOCK-YARDS — A SIGHT WORTH

SEEING — FROM KANSAS CITY TO OMAHA

OVER THE BURLINGTON ROUTE

— OMAHA, THE SCENE OF

THE GREAT WESTERN

EXPOSITION.

Few people who hear and read of " stock-yards "
realize what they are, or have any real conception of
their enormous size and the great amount of busi-
ness done here. The Kansas City Stock- Yards are
famous. They are located in the " Bottoms " and
after a long car-ride the visitor reaches the inter-
esting locality.

The best time to visit the stock-yards is early in
the morning, when some of our Maryland folk are
not up, for we are not very early risers in Maryland
towns. At half past three, all is astir in the stock-
yards, and business has been going on for quite a
while. Cattlemen are driving from pen to pen, in-
specting the stock preparatory to making a large
deal in the same.

FROM KANSAS CITY TO OMAHA. 215

One ascends a small flight of steps at any con-
venient portion at the outskirts of the yards, stands
on the platform and "views the landscape o'er."
Miles and miles of cattle appear to stretch out in all
directions as far as one can see. These are herded
together in numerous compartments, waiting to
be sold, and perhaps to be killed that very day.
As soon as it is daylight the cattlemen ride through
the various avenues of this vast yard, inspecting the
stock, the merits of which are set forth by the
guides, employees of the company.

When sold, each man's stock is herded in sepa-
rate enclosures and finally driven over an incline
and across the bridges to the Armour, Swift or
Dold packing-houses. Not an animal that is in
this vast arena early in the morning is there in the
evening. Every one of the thousands and thous-
ands has been sold, and the next morning sees a
new lot in their places. In 1898, 9,268,635 cattle
were driven out of these stock-yards for packers'
and city use alone, not to speak of the calves, sheep,
horses and mules driven out. The cattle business
is an immense business here, and the Kansas City
Stock- Yards are the largest in the world. In the
neighborhood of the stock-yards is the cattle-show,
and the auction-rooms where fine blooded stock are
put up for sale.

The scene in the auction-room is a very exciting

2l6 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

one. The owner displays his fine stock to the best
advantage. After having the animal bathed, and
his horns polished, his hair curled and brushed until
its gloss is equal to that of a colonial dame's pride
and glory and crowning adornment, he walks the
animal around the arena of the auction-room for
public inspection and admiration. The inspection
begins at 9 o'clock, when the auctioneer tells of the
genealogical history of the blooded cattle to be
sold. Indeed, to hear the auctioneer tell who the
animal's sire and grandsire were, and dwell upon his
choice combination of blue blood, and high class
of individual merits, one would suppose the cow's
ancestors came over in the Mayflower with all the
rest of aristocracy. (It's a wonder that the May-
flower didn't sink, anyway!) After the animal's
history and family-record are given and the several
branches of the family-tree flutter and bend in the
breeze of ancestral pride, the bidding begins, spir-
ited and lively.

The auctioneer warms up to his business. He
pleads for order and quiet. He becomes hoarse,
then grows warmer, and finally takes off his coat
with one hand, while he mops the perspiration from
his brow with the other. Even the women (for
there are a couple of dozen present), begin to catch
the contagion of excitement, and are on tiptoe of
expectancy to see who the purchaser of that grand

FROM KANSAS CITY TO OMAHA. 217

specimen of the Curtice Hereford stock is to be.
The auctioneer puts up Lamplighter, Jr., son of
the World's Fair prize-winner. He weighs 2,380
pounds, and has a long line of distinguished blood-
ed ancestry to back him. Lamplighter, Jr., finally
sells for only $1,000. Stock of the Hereford sort
comes high, but the cattlemen must have it, and
after all, a thousand dollars isn't much to pay for
an animal that may die next day or that same night.
Oh, no, " Armour Rose," the famous cow that help-
ed to build the Kansas City Convention Hall, sold
for $2,500 the day previous.

Armour Rose is two years old and weighs
1,200 pounds. She is also of the Hereford stock,
and is as pretty and chubby as can be. She was
sold to John Sparks, of Nevada for $2,500. She is
a cow with a history. Mr. Armour gave her to be
voted for, or raffled, the proceeds to be appropri-
ated to building the large auditorium in Kansas
City. She was won by a lady, to whom Mr. Ar-
mour offered $1,000 in cash, for the cow. The lady
did what any of us would have done, accepted the
thousand, and Mr. Armour took the cow. The
next day Armour Rose was put up at auction at
the stock-yards and brought two and a half times
as much, to the discomfiture of the winner. The
Hereford stock have dark-brown curly hair, short
brightly polished horns, dark-brown legs and white

2l8 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

feet. They are beautiful cattle, and said to be very
valuable. A visit to the stock-yards, cattle-show
and auction-room impresses one that cattle are like
people, there is a great deal in their stock, and good
blood and a long line of ancestry stand for some-
thing the world over.

Leaving the Kansas City Stock- Yards, we
wended our way to the station, preparatory to start-
ing for Omaha, and the Trans-Mississippi Exposi-
tion at that time in progress. It was not without
regret that we said good-bye to Kansas City, and
the many kind friends who had shown us the inter-
esting sights and scenes of that progressive West-
ern metropolis. Our route this trip was over the
Burlington, one of the most popular roads of the
West and Northwest, and a road which is well
patronized. Its road-bed is easy, its cars among
the finest equipped in the West, with all modern
conveniences and appliances, its service complete
and its officials polite, courteous and obliging.

From Kansas City to Omaha, the Burlington
Route runs through the Missouri Valley, rich in
farm lands. Here, large farms of grain stretch
away for miles, and this is one of the largest and
richest farm districts in the country. We saw a
farm of i ,200 acres of corn which produces 70 bush-
els to the acre, and which is owned by one, Mr.
Rankins. Our train put off 100 men at this point
to be employed in corn-husking on this farm.

FROM KANSAS CITY TO OMAHA. 2 19

Observing the moist, black soil, common along
the route, we inquired relative to its usefulness.
It is called gumbo, and is taken to Watson, burned
in a kiln and becomes a red clay, and is used along
the Burlington road-bed for ballast. The first
town across the line in Iowa is Hamburg, a thrifty
business-like little city.

We have always been gifted with a great amount
of southern pride, and the following little pleasan-
try has a tendency to enhance that vainglorious-
ness.

" I am sure you are a southern lady," said the
conductor whom we had been interrogating.
"Why do you think so?" we inquired. "Be-
cause you are so careful to say ' thank you ' for any
little service rendered, and I have noticed that
southern ladies are always mindful of this. I have
been on this road for sixteen years, and come in
contact with a great many people in the course of
a year, and even in the course of a day. I am some-
what observant myself, and it has been my experi-
ence that the most appreciative and polite ladies
who travel are from the South. They never forget
their manners." We have been shaking hands with
ourselves ever since.

The Burlington Station at Omaha is a gem of
loveliness. It cost $400,000, and is the handsom-
est station in the United States, except the one at

220 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

St. Louis. It is built of granite in the Greek and
Roman style of architecture, with massive Doric
pillars on the exterior, supporting the entrance
above which are cut in the stone, figures and char-
acters representative of western industry, such as
mining, agriculture, and so forth. The design of
the entrance to this depot is very similar to that of
Gen. Grant's tomb at Riverside Park, New York.

In the interior, the pillars are of onyx, the side
walls of marble tiling and the floors of mosaic pat-
tern. The chandeliers, of brass, with myriads of
incandescent lights, shed a soft mellow glow, and
the effect in this marble palace is indeed beautiful.
Palms and tropical plants decorate the rotunda and
waiting-rooms, and one imagines himself in one of
the World's Fair buildings or a mausoleum rather
than a railroad station. No expense has been
spared to make the Burlington depot at Omaha a
magnificent building, thoroughly equipped with
every comfort and convenience, besides being most
artistic in ornament and design. Coming into
Omaha by this route, one is favorably impressed
with the sight.

Omaha has a population of 105,000. It is a
clean attractive city with many handsome buildings
and elegant homes. Like Denver and Kansas City,
it is noted for its excellent school system and hand-
some school-buildings. The Omaha High School

FROM KANSAS CITY TO OMAHA. 221

is one of the finest in the country. The building,
an imposing red-brick structure considerably pff
from the public thoroughfare and on a high, ter-
raced elevation, was once the State capitol building.
When the capital was removed to Lincoln, this
building was taken for the high school. There are
over 2,000 pupils enrolled at this school. The
Lake Street School is next in size to the Omaha
High School. The court house is a handsome
granite building, located amid beautifully terraced
grounds. The postoffice is another handsome
building of which Omaha may feel proud.

Across the Missouri river from Omaha, Ne-
braska, is Council Bluffs, Iowa, a city of no little
importance. Many men doing business in Omaha
reside at Council Bluffs. Omaha, the seat of the
Trans-Mississippi Exposition of last year, and the
Greater America Exposition of this year, has sur-
prised the world. Coming Expositions may be
bigger in point of size, but in point of beauty and
interest the Omaha Exposition will probably never
be excelled.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION — ITS BEAUTIES DISSOLVED

FOREVER — THE LAST GREAT EDUCATIONAL

AND AMUSEMENT ENTERPRISE OF

THE CENTURY.

On November ist, the Omaha Exposition, the
last great educational and amusement enterprise of
the century, passed into history, and its countless
beauties dissolved forever.

There is something pathetic in the reflection that
never again within the lives of most of those of the
present generation, will another opportunity be of-
fered the people of the great West such an exposi-
tion within their midst as the Greater America Ex-
position just closed.

It has been in progress two years. Last year it
was known as the Trans-Mississippi Exposition,
and was the first of its scope and magnitude which
history has allotted to the West. Its wonderful
proportions, and its unprecedented success were a
world's surprise. Its successor, the Greater Amer-
ica Exposition, born of its embers, rivaled it in
magnitude, and surpassed it in beauty and educa-

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 223

tional worth, but was not so successful in point of
attendance. For this latter reason, many interest-
ed in the enterprise, lost money this year.

Expositions are the indices of the progress of all
that is best in civilization. They are growing in
popularity, especially in the South and West. The
immediate future is rich in promises of great na-
tional and international enterprises of this char-
acter. This year brings the world's fair at Paris;
in 1901, Buffalo will open its gates to the com-
mercial, industrial and educational world; in 1902,
will occur the Ohio Centennial and Northwest
Territory Exposition at Toledo, and in 1903,
St. Louis will celebrate the anniversary of the
Louisiana purchase. Each of these will doubtless
be the wonder of its day, as its builders will have
had the benefit of the experience of former build-
ers; but never again within the lives of most of
them will the people of the West enjoy an oppor-
tunity to witness so grand and edifying a spectacle
within their doors as the one whose beauties have
dissolved forever. Expositions like the one just
closed at Omaha are of more educational value than
a year's ordinary schooling.

The main buildings for exhibit purposes, occu-
pied over 700,000 square feet, and every foot of it
was occupied by varied lines of exhibits of unpre-
cedented beauty and richness. The buildings were

224 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

all white, and reminded one of that great " White
City " at Chicago seven years ago at the World's
Fair. These buildings were all of ornate design,
classic architecture and stately proportions, sur-
rounding a wide lagoon with picturesque balus-
trades and connected by alluring and beautiful col-
onnades. In these buildings was to be seen the
most interesting, if not the most comprehensive,
representation of the products of American inge-
nuity and handicraft ever attempted, showing by
means of model machinery in actual operation, the
processes by which American artisans outstrip the
rest of the world in the excellence and abundance
of the products of their labor.

The dominant purpose of the Greater America
Exposition project was to bring the American
people into actual contact with representative types
of the remote, but interesting sea-girt lands known
as the Philippine Islands, as well as Cuba, Porto
Rico and Hawaii. To this end, there were to be
seen at the Omaha Exposition comprehensive ex-
hibits of the people's products; the possibilities,
habits, customs and industries of the new American
dependencies. There were located here in the Mid-
way Plaisance, villages of Cubans, Porto Ricans,
Hawaiians and Filipinos, assembled in their native
habitations, and portraying the routine of domestic,
social, industrial and commercial life in their far-

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 225

away homes. Such an enterprise which was nat-
ural in scope and magnitude, was of intense patri-
otic interest to all students of national affairs and
governmental politics. Although visiting the ex-
position during its expiring days, after the frost had
touched and withered some of its beautiful floral
decorations in the grounds, there was yet remain-
ing enough to tell us that the grounds had been dis-
tinctly tropical, that throughout more than 200
acres enclosed by the exposition fences, there were
thousands of luxurious palms, giant cacti, rare
tropical flowers, and other treasures of the warmer
and more fecund climes.

The entrance fee was the same as at the World's
Fair. The building nearest the entrance and nat-
urally the first visited, was the Government Build-
ing. This building contained a splendid exhibit.
Here were to be seen the entire contents of the fa-
mous Libby Prison War Museum, composed of the
relics of the wars of this nation, and of great his-
toric importance and value. In one part of the
building was displayed an immense collection of the
relics and trophies of the late war with Spain; the
campaign in Cuba and Porto Rico. There were
from the Philippine Islands four car-loads of cu-
rious and interesting exhibits, relics of Dewey's
famous victory, trophies of the war in and about
Manila, and interesting objects collected from va-
15

226 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

rious parts of the island. In addition to all this,
there were regular government exhibits of life-sav-
ing apparatus, and the like. Of the many things
that attracted our interest, time and space will per-
mit us to mention only a few. One of these was a
United States flag made of red, white and blue paper
roses, by the young ladies of Richmond, Virginia,
in 1803. Another was the oldest cannon in Ameri-
ca, one of the largest and most celebrated in the
Confederate navy. This gun was in service on
board the warship " Palmetto Tree " and upon the
evacuation of Charleston it was thrown overboard,
rather than let it fall into the hands of the Federal
forces. It had remained at the bottom of the
Charleston harbor from 1865 to 1891.

Strolling about the Government Building, we
were attracted by a crowd standing about a frame.
Curious to know what the object of attraction was,
we became one of the gathering. Although time
was valuable, we waited to get at closer range, and
did not regret waiting. The object of interest
proved to be a poem written in 1862 by H. Booze,
late sergeant of Company E, 44th Indiana Volun-
teer Infantry. It was entitled " Old Libby," and
was the experience of the writer, who related in
verse his horrible suffering in that famous prison.
The familiar word " Annapolis " caught our eye in
the last stanza, which we give verbatim :

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 227

"We soon reached the harbor at old Annapolis town,
On the shores of our own Maryland,
Where they gave us new clothes, and more victuals, all

free,
And a home near their city so grand,

The change from vile prison to Liberty's home,
Was so sudden, so joyous and great,
That hell turned to heaven, could only compare
With the joys of our blissful estate."

Here was one poor fellow, at least, who thought
Annapolis " so grand," and we congratulated our-
selves we hailed from the same town. Who would
have ever imagined one would see anything from
Annapolis, or about it in the Omaha Exposition!
The world is not so large after all. In Denver we
saw a pencil-sketch of an Anne Arundel county
home, the residence of Col. Boyle, and here we see
reference to the good treatment received by a sol-
dier in those " times that tried men's souls," while
at Annapolis, " on the shores of our own Mary-
land."

There were pictures of scenes in Andersonville
Prison, Camp Sumter, Georgia, in 1864, and il-
lustrations of how the famous tunnel was dug. We
saw the chisel that did the work, and a chain ten
and a half feet long whittled from one block of
wood by an ex-prisoner of war. A gruesome relic
was the photograph of John W. January, of the
1 4th Volunteer Cavalry, who, owing to bad treat-
ment while a prisoner at Andersonville and Flor-

228 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

ence, was reduced to a famished condition. The
bones of his feet decayed, and he himself cut them
both off. He weighed only 48 pounds when ex-
changed. This man is to-day alive and well. He
is in business in Chicago, and wears artificial feet.
One often hears the extravagant remark, " I would
not do such and such a thing to save my life." This
man dared to cut off his own feet to save his life.

Among other interesting exhibits in this build-
ing was a printing-press, upon which Owen Love-
joy and his brother printed their anti-slavery paper
at Alton, Illinois, in 1837. A m°b destroyed the
office, killed Mr. Lovejoy, and threw his printing-
press into the Missouri river. Another exhibit
that attracted a great deal of attention was an old-
fashioned marble-top table, beside which Gen.
Grant and Gen. Lee sat during their interview at
Mr. McLean's house at Appomattox Court House,
Virginia, April gth, 1865, and upon which the terms
of Lee's surrender were written, bringing to a close
the greatest civil war known to history.

Perhaps one of the most interesting modern ex-
hibits in the Government Building was Gathmann's
modern aerial torpedo, 18 feet long. This weapon
is capable of destroying any battleship in existence.
No fortification of the present day can withstand
one hour's bombardment, as its destructive power,
accuracy, aim and range are wonderful. This in-

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 22Q

vention will bring forth a revolution in warfare.
It destroys an ironclad as quickly as a vessel of
commerce. Congress has appropriated money to
build cannon for firing this torpedo. There are
over 100,000 objects of historic interest comprised
in America's War Museum in the Government
Building, from which a vast amount of instruction
was to be acquired.

Leaving the Government Building, one next
finds his way to the Agricultural Building near by.
Here, a week could be profitably spent viewing and
studying the cereals and all farm-products of these
wealthy western States, of which only twenty years
ago little or nothing was known; particularly is this
true of Nebraska. Twenty years ago, nothing was
known of Nebraska's soil and climate, and every
act of the new settler in crop-growing was an ex-
periment. Twenty years ago, when this country
was being settled, Chicago had 400,000 people.
To-day, it has over 2,000,000. Omaha had 20,000.
To-day, it has 165,000. Minneapolis had 23,000.
To-day, it has over 200,000. There are only single
instances out of hundreds of similar growths. It is
the West — Nebraska and Kansas — which supplies
these and a hundred other large cities with beef,
pork, flour, butter, eggs, chickens and fruit.
Twenty years ago, the East supplied all the fine
grades of butter and cheese. It was supposed the

230 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

West never would be able to produce choice but-
ter and cheese. To-day, the Dakotas, Nebraska
and Kansas rank among the first, and lead the east-
ern States in quality and flavor. The development
of the dairy-industry is astonishing. The average
Nebraska creamery can ship butter to New York
or Boston at a cost of less than three-fourths of a
cent a pound above the price paid by New York
and Vermont dairymen. That condition, together
with a cheap feed, gives it a complete monopoly of
the dairy-industry as of beef and pork. Twenty
years ago, it was believed that trees or fruit would
never grow here. To-day, there are many thrifty
orchards in bearing condition as far west as the
Colorado line. Twenty years ago, alfalfa was un-
known. To-day, after learning all the peculiarities
of this wonderful plant, the farmers of western Ne-
braska find themselves able, by its use, to raise
hogs and fit them for the market at a cost of less
than one cent a pound.

Twenty years ago, the farmers of Nebraska were
obliged to ship all their cattle and hogs to Chicago.
To-day, the second and third largest stock-yards
and packing centres in the world are Kansas City
and Omaha, making the very best of markets with-
in a few hours' ride of the farmer's door.

Twenty years ago, this section had practically no
home-market. To-day, there are in Colorado,

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 23!

Iowa, Nebraska and Kansas, manufacturing indus-
tries that employ over 150,000 hands, whose an-
nual earnings aggregate $74,235,565. Twenty
years ago, this was a new country with old and un-
profitable methods and ideas. To-day, it is an
older country with new and profitable methods and
ideas.

So much for Nebraska and the strides it has
made in a single decade. The first exhibit that at-
tracted our attention was that of Dawson county,
this State. Dawson county, only fifteen years ago,
contained nothing but buffaloes and Indians; to-day
it has 29,000 acres under irrigation. The farmer
pays a perpetual water-right of 50 cents an acre for
irrigation. In 1898, Dawson county produced
150,000 bushels of wheat, 200,000 bushels of corn,
950,000 bushels of oats, 600,000 bushels of barley,
400,000 bushels of rye and 25,000 acres of alfalfa.
The exhibit of this county was very artistic.
Among the handsome decorations was a face, en-
tirely of cereals, and made of hog millet, silks of
corn, milomace and other grain.

Polk county, Iowa, had a handsome display,
in which was a large American Eagle and a
handsome United States flag, made entirely of
corn, the work of a young man of skill and inge-
nuity. The " Burlington Route " exhibit was
unique. Here was a table spread for Thanksgiving

232 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

dinner, on which were the products of the State.
The cloth was made of plaited corn-husks, of a
creamy sheen, with red border. The father, moth-
er, two sons and a daughter were seated about the
table. Their faces were of putty, their hair of corn-
silk, their teeth of grains of corn and their clothing
of corn-husks and corn-silk. No two were dress-
ed alike, and their appearance was as neat and ar-
tistic as it was novel. Above their heads was
" Happiness," and on a card suspended from the
table was : " Mother, ain't you glad you came to
Nebraska?"

This is the question the husband asks the wife at
each Thanksgiving dinner, for these figures of this
family-group surrounding this well-filled table rep-
resent people living in Nebraska along the Bur-
lington Route to-day, the road that holds the
world's record for " 1,025 miles in 1,047 minutes."
The legend of this family-group is as follows : In
1868, the son of an Illinois farmer, acting upon the
advice of Greely, goes West to grow up with the
country. With a yoke of oxen and a good prairie-
schooner, he starts out, and after four or five weeks'
travel at fifteen miles a day, reaches the great
"American Desert," somewhat on the divide be-
tween the Republican and Platte rivers, 100 to 150
miles west of the Missouri river. He finds an en-
tirely undeveloped country, but recognizes in its

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 233

magnificent soil, salubrious climate and pure water,
in never-failing supply, three all-important factors
for future prosperity and happiness.

He applies to Uncle Sam for 160 acres of this
vast domain. Uncle Sam gives it to him with
pleasure on payment of a small fee. He builds
himself a sod-house, digs a well, and while his
neighbors (few and far between) break up only 30
or 40 acres with one yoke of oxen, he at once gets
to work with two yokes, and, with a 1 6-inch break-
ing plow, breaks up 60 acres the first season. He
is not going to spend half of his valuable time cook-
ing and washing dishes, so he gets himself an in-
dustrious little wife to attend to these things. These
two young people of industry and good sense, live
30 years together, raising three children — two sons
and one daughter — healthy and intelligent natives
of the " Tree-Planters' State." To-day, the farmer
is 53 years old, has a good house, barn, windmill
and tank, a fine lawn, plenty of shade-trees, thor-
oughbred Herefords and fine horses.

His children are well educated, and his fine farm
of 800 acres is well stocked. He is one of the
wealthiest farmers in Nebraska, and to this end evi-
dently followed the Biblical injunction, one of the
mottoes on the Agricultural Building: "Honour
the Lord with thy substance, and the first fruits of
thine increase, so shall thy barns be filled with
plenty, and thy presses burst out with new wine."

234 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

Linn county, Kansas, also had a fine exhibit.
Here was a church made entirely of wild grass, and
here was Kansas pop-corn n feet from the roots,
15 feet in all. Here, we also saw a huge heart
made of corn, and what more appropriate emblem
could there be, for is not corn the life-blood of our
nation? " Bleeding Kansas " was indeed well rep-
resented in these exhibits.

The handsomest exhibit in the Agricultural
Building was that of Douglas county, which won
the first prize. This exhibit was a marvel of art.
In Douglas county, " corn is on top/' and to em-
phasize this, a huge top was made entirely of corn.
In this county, there are 217,074 acres of land, of
which 74,000 acres are in corn. Eighty-five per
cent of the seed of the whole United States is grown
in this county. In this exhibit we saw the Douglas
county court-house made entirely of seed — lettuce,
onion and tobacco seed. It was indeed a marvel
of art. There were ears of corn in this exhibit 14
inches long, not one ear, but dozens and dozens of
this length, with the corn in most perfect rows, not
one grain " out of line " with its fellows. There
was also a new species of beet, the mangel-wurzel
variety, on which cattle are fed. Douglas county,
Nebraska, has 27 distinct varieties of pop-corn.
We saw an ear of corn that weighed 2 pounds and
i ounce. The columns supporting this exhibit

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 235

were all made of the agricultural products of the
county.

There was a watermelon here that weighed 86
pounds, a squash weighing 157 pounds, and corn
so high that it would take a man on a step-ladder
to husk it. There were radishes 12 inches long,
and watermelons grown in winter, as well as
those grown in summer, and fruits of all sorts
and varieties. Indeed, it is a question what
Douglas county, Nebraska, does not produce. A
great attraction of this exhibit was the battleship
" Maine," made of corn, on the deck of which a
good view of the booth could be had.

Lancaster county, in which Lincoln, the State's
capital, is situated, had a fine display. In this
county, the general agricultural experimental sta-
tion is located. Lincoln has the only sugar-beet
school in America. Here, the farmer's boy, during
the winter months, may be taught scientific farm-
ing, dairying, and given lessons on the good and
bad qualities of stock and poultry. These are ob-
ject-lessons; the animals are brought before the
class and the lessons taught in this manner. If
there is any school in the East or South where farm-
ers' boys are instructed, during the winter months
of idleness on the farm, in scientific farming, and
the like, we shall be glad to be informed of the fact,
for to our knowledge the idea is exclusively west-
ern.

236 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

From one of these farmer-boys' schools, we saw
a beet which had been analyzed and the analysis of
which showed eighteen and two-tenths per cent
sugar. The clay of this county does not change
color after bricks are made and burned. Agricul-
tural implements were also displayed in this build-
ing, many of them of modern invention and im-
provement. Among these was a corn-planter of
recent invention, that will plant 20 acres of corn a
day.

The Manufactures and Liberal Arts Building was
filled with a bewildering display. Here, machin-
ery was in operation. One could see silk-weaving
from the beginning of the raw silk to the cloth; the
manufacture of hats, from the raw material to the
finished article, in short, a hundred different ar-
ticles of commerce were being made here at the
same time and under the same roof. In the Elec-
trical Building was to be seen all the latest and
most interesting electrical apparatus and appli-
ances; dynamos, telephone exchanges, exhibitions
of lighting, heating and cooking. In brief, scores
of interesting and curious things, such as can only
be found in a display of this kind, and which must
be seen to be appreciated.

The colonial exhibit consisted of many interest-
ing articles of commerce, industry and manufac-
ture from foreign possessions; implements of agri-

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 237

culture, vehicles, plants, ornaments, products and
fruits, and many interesting things from Cuba, Por-
to Rico and the far-off Philippines. The Art Mu-
seum at the Exposition contained over a thousand
of the rarest works of brush and pencil from the
collection of connoisseurs of wealthier cities. Here
were costly bric-a-brac, elegant statuary, display of
ceramics, all arranged amid the most artistic fur-
nishings and brilliant coloring. Some one has said,
an exhibition may largely be judged from its art
exhibit, that this is the key-note by which an idea
may be formed of the magnitude and importance
of the entire exhibition. If this be true, Omaha's
Greater America Exposition was indeed a success.
The walls of the Fine Arts building were covered
with magnificent collections of paintings repre-
senting every school of art, ancient and modern,
and divided into sections of oil, water-color, pastel
and pen-and-ink sketches. One of the noted col-
lections was the Elegantarium Collection of an-
tique art gathered from the old French Creole fam-
ilies of the South.

The Chicago Record's collection of 200 sketches
of the war scenes in Cuba, Porto Rico and the
Philippines, and the collection of Indian pictures
loaned by Mr. Ernesti, of Denver, are deserving of
special mention. To Col. John R. Key, art di-
rector, much credit is due for the magnificent col-

238 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

lection and its pleasing arrangement. Col. Key is
a Marylander, a cousin to Francis Scott Key, of
"Star Spangled Banner" fame, and has a number of
relatives residing in Annapolis. He is an affable
and genial gentleman, much traveled and highly
cultured, and an artist of merit. Several of his
paintings were on exhibition here. Among these
were paintings of the World's Fair; one being the
" Court of Honor/' a handsome painting full of
light and color. Col. Key does not consider that
the art exhibit has been a success, financially. Of
the many pictures in the art exhibit that struck our
fancy we shall only mention two, " The Trackless
Ocean " and " Be Mine." " The Trackless Ocean "
is a magnificent painting by Warren Shepherd. It
took the gold medal at the art exhibition in Den-
ver in 1884. In this painting, nothing is visible
but the trackless waste of waters and the heavens.
The moonlight glistens with startling effect upon
the waves, and light and shade are harmoniously
blended. The coloring of the blue-green ocean is
true to nature. The picture has been much ad-
mired.

" Be Mine " appeals to one at sight. This paint-
ing represents two bootblacks on either side of a
dog with an intelligent face. Each boy is using all
of his persuasive power on the dog to induce him
to become his own particular property. The art

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 239

exhibition must be exceptionally fine, since a
gentleman from Berlin, much traveled, said there
was the greatest number of art gems here that he
had seen in any collection.

In the liberal arts exhibit were two vases val-
ued at $5,000 each. They represent " Liberty "
and " Progress," and have been previously exhib-
ited at Vienna, Paris, London, Berlin, Chicago and
New York. One vase represents the taking of the
Bastile in 1789, the other, "Progress," represents
from the discovery of America by Columbus, to
Lincoln's emancipation proclamation.

The Hawaiian School exhibits were particularly
interesting. The Pohukaiwa School at Honolulu,
Hawaiian Islands, had specimens in drawing,
patching, composition and solutions in arithmetic
worthy of any of our schools in these parts.

The Horticultural Building was a gem. At night
the approach was through a fairy-like lawn where,
hidden among the shrubbery, were hundreds of
multi-colored incandescent lights.

Entertainments were daily features at the exposi-
tion. There were, during our visit, exhibitions of
high diving by the world's champion divers, who
leaped from an elevation of 60 feet to the lagoon
beneath. The " Olympia," with " Admiral Dewey "
aboard, crossed the lagoon amid the explosion of
numerous sub-marine mines. There was a " burial

24O WESTERN WANDERINGS.

at sea," when Madame Johnson, tied hand and foot,
was sewn in a sack, weighted and cast into the lake,
and cutting herself loose, emerged after remaining
beneath the water two minutes and a quarter.

There was a sham battle of Indians, and a band
concert at night, in the concert hall, by a Cincin-
nati orchestra of 47 pieces. The grounds by day
were as beautiful as a poet's dream, but by night
they were a dream of loveliness. Their electric
effulgence obscured the splendor of the heavens.
The moon paled, the stars waned before the flash
and gleam of over 45,000 electric lights, which
flashed and gleamed in symmetrical lines of daz-
zling light along the outlines of the buildings and
the majestic columns of the colonnade. This
splendid illumination was one of the crowning feat-
ures of the exposition.

The display was most effectively arranged. The
exposition which had been seen by day was grand
and beautiful, but when night spread its sable
wings, a fairy scene sprang into existence — each
outline defined, each tower and minaret clearly cut
and brilliant with myriads of electric lights
flashing like stars of ever-changing, shimmer-
ing brilliancy. The illumination of the Court
of Honor is beyond description. Lights flashed
from cornice and arch, from balustrade to lofty
spire, from pillared colonnade to gilded dome, rear-

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION. 24!

ed aloft on the Government Building. The elec-
tric fountain, at the western end of the lagoon, was
a veritable rainbow of changing lights; now, clear-
est white like showers of diamonds, now, shell rose
to softest green, and then, from sprays and showers
of crimson to all the colors of the rainbow mingled,
shifting, changing, a dream of fleeting beauty.

Around the Court of Honor, gardens of tropical
plants bloomed by day, and blossomed in yet more
brilliant hues by night. Three thousand lights
clustered and colored to represent full-blown flow-
ers, lighted the foliage, and gave the effect of fairy
gardens. Concealed lights threw into bold relief
each group of statuary upon the buildings. The
effect was marvelous. Those who are qualified to
judge, pronounce the electrical illumination at
the Omaha Exposition to have been the most mag-
nificent ever arranged — far surpassing the brilliant
illumination at the World's Fair. There, a great
many more lights were used, but they were more
scattered; here, the grouping and designs followed
out, contributed largely to the beauty of the scene.
The Greater America Exposition was a credit to
Omaha, and the State of Nebraska, and indeed, to
the whole United States.

It has passed into history, reflecting the stirring
events of America during the closing two
years of the nineteenth century. It will, probably,
16

242 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

not only be the last great educational enterprise of
the century, but the most unique. It had a theme
and a purpose distinctly its own. It was a worthy
enterprise of a worthy town. The Chicago Wreck-
ing Company purchased the buildings for $50,000.
The Omaha Exposition was built and conducted
without asking a dollar of contribution from na-
tional, State, county or city treasuries, but it en-
joyed the voluntary support and aid of the heads
of the departments of the national government in
the acquisition of war exhibits and those from the
insular dependencies. The Omaha Exposition is
a thing of the past, its countless beauties have dis-
solved forever, and there is something pathetic in
the fact that the last great educational and amuse-
ment enterprise of the century has passed into his-
tory.

CHAPTER XX.

INCIDENTS ON THE CHICAGO AND NORTH-
WESTERN RAILROAD RIDING

IN A MAIL-CAR.

Leaving Omaha for Chicago over the Chicago
and North-Western Railroad on the homeward
trip, to one who has been at all observant, the scen-
ery along the road has grown familiar, and special
points of interest are again looked out for. Among
these is Kate Shelly's old home, and the new one
too, the gift of the Chicago News.

Both houses stand side by side, and on the morn-
ing of our return trip, Kate and her mother were
on the veranda, waving to the train as it spun past
their home. The reader will recall the brief men-
tion made in a previous chapter of Kate Shelly's
bridge. Kate is a plain, everyday, ordinary woman,
now 34 years old, of little education but a great
deal of pluck and heroism, and who lives in Iowa,
along the Chicago and North- Western Railroad
between Boone's and Ames, in that state.

Some years ago, she swam the Des Moines river

244 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

at night, and signaled an approaching passenger-
train about to cross a bridge which had become
weakened by the heavy rains, and which had given
way under a freight-train. She thus saved many
lives. For this heroic act the Chicago and North-
Western Railroad gave her $5,000 and an annual
pass over their road, also a gold medal with their
stamp studded with diamonds.

The Chicago and North- Western is the only road
that has a double track from Council Bluffs to Chi-
cago. The new road-bed is not quite finished, and
when completed will be one of the finest roads in
the West. Passing along the road, one has a good
view of the Indian Reservation in Iowa. In early
summer, on the outbound trip, we saw these In-
dians scattered about near the railroad; now it has
grown colder, and they have moved their camp
farther away upon the hills, into the shelter of the
woods. On this occasion, a number of them were
in their cemetery, burying one of their dead. They
wore their characteristic dress, and were wrapped
with beautiful red and Roman-striped blankets.
The graves are queer looking objects, and have
board coverings. The Indians on this reservation
are said to be a bad set, and the white man is shy
of them.

Farther on, the Chicago and North- Western
tracks cross a handsome steel bridge over the Miss-

IOWA RIVER, NEAR TAMA, IOWA.

FROM OMAHA TO CHICAGO. 245

issippi. Here, one sees the two States, Iowa and
Illinois, together.

Several large saw-mills are located on the Iowa
side of the river, and rafts of logs are seen floating
down the great Mississippi. The Mississippi Val-
ley Stove Company has a large manufactory on the
Illinois side, and does an extensive business. The
day's ride from Omaha to Chicago is long and te-
dious to one who attempts to sit still, but to the
human interrogation-point, which numbers the
writer among its class, the fourteen hours' ride can
be made very pleasant.

We visited the baggage-car, and although this
was one of the " dull days," the baggage-master
told us that in 1 6 years of his experience in this ca-
pacity on the Chicago and North- Western road he
had not known a busier season than the past sum-
mer. He also said that in those 16 years there had
not been a single accident. Visiting the mail-car
is a privilege accorded but a chosen few, and can
only be obtained by special permission. To one
who has never visited a mail-car or ridden in one,
the sight and experience is a revelation. This car
is a regular postoffice on wheels.

Here, the railway postal clerk and his four as-
sistants, assort and distribute the mail from pouches
put on at the various stations, placing the mail
matter in pigeon holes the same as at the post-

246 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

office. The West-bound mail is always twice as
heavy as the East-bound. The mail for New Eng-
land and New York city is heavier than all other
East-bound mail. A great deal of foreign mail
passes through the mail-car, and much registered
matter. If one doubts to what extent our business
houses do business with foreign countries, he has
but to see the letters a single business house sends
to France, Austria, Arabia, Porto Rico, New South
Wales and other foreign countries.

A mail-car usually handles 15 tons of mail each
trip. The mail-pouches are sacks weighing from
200 to 400 pounds each. The mail is always heav-
ier at the first of the week. The letter-mail is al-
ways heavier on Monday, probably because Sunday
is the popular letter-writing day. The paper-mail
is heavier at the last of the week because of the
weeklies. The railway postal clerk and his helpers
have no easy job. Recently, on a Chicago and
North- Western mail-train, three men handled 800
packages and 33,000 letters on one trip, working,
however, 1 5 hours — a long day's work. Each man
is responsible for his own work, and is required
to leave the mail-car in perfect order. Each man's
work is labeled with name, day and date, and all
errors are charged up against him.

Annapolis is a place of no little importance, after
all. One sees something about, or from it or on

NEAR LOVELAND, IOWA.

GLEN ELLYN. ILLINOIS.

FROM OMAHA TO CHICAGO. 247

the way to the historic town by the Severn, every-
where one goes, even in a railway-car; for here, in
a railway postal car, we saw a letter on its way to
Annapolis to a cadet at the Naval Academy. For
fear this one little letter might be lonely on its long
journey to the town " Richard Carvel " has again
made famous, we sent another along with it to bear
it company.

CHAPTER XXI.

CHICAGO, SKY-SCRAPERS — THE CITY HAS A RIVAL —

RELICS OF WITHERED GLORY — THE WORLD'S

FAIR GROUNDS — THE NEW

PUBLIC LIBRARY.

So many have been to Chicago, and have seen
its massive " sky-scrapers " and public buildings,
that we shall not attempt to describe it, but only
mention a few facts that, perhaps, everybody
doesn't know.

Chicago long since has had many imitators of
these multi-storied buildings, and although one of
these is 23 stories high, New York " goes her three
better," and has a building of 26 stories. Chicago
can no longer include among the things for which
she is famous "the highest buildings in the
country."

Once in Chicago, one naturally desires to visit
the World's Fair grounds, and recall the experience
of seven years ago. The grounds are scarcely rec-
ognizable, and save for the reminders of its with-
ered glory, it is hard to believe that such beauties,
of a few years ago which have dissolved into noth-

CHICAGO SKY-SCRAPERS. 249

ingness, ever existed. The park, where once these
magnificent palaces of art stood, is visited daily by
hundreds of people, and on Sunday by thousands.

The lagoon, or one of them, still nestles on its
bosom the " Nina," " Pinta " and " Santa Maria ";
Columbus' three ships reproduced. They have re-
cently had a dress of paint, and look quite fresh for
such ancient models of navigation of the fifteenth
century. Then, there is the Iowa State Building
standing, at least its exterior, for it has been con-
verted into a resting place for weary travelers, and
seats are provided here.

The German Building is intact along the Lake
shore, and is the only one of the foreign buildings
remaining in the grounds. Here, lunch is served,
and it is a kind of restaurant. It is difficult some-
times to come down to things of earth, and to real-
ize that in the building where we once saw the
Oberamergau clock in operation and the beautiful
stained-glass windows, statuary, and the like, that
such a mundane thing as appetite is catered to.

The Palace of Fine Arts still remains, but oh, in
such a dilapidated condition! It is dark with
smoke and weather, all of its entrances have gone
but one, its columns are crumbling, and its statuary
ornamenting the exterior is a sorry sight. Indeed,
it has not only seen better days, but it has seen its
best days. One forgets the exterior when he en-

250 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

ters, and again sees the relics of Columbus, pictures
of all descriptions, ethnological departments of all
countries, zoological exhibits and many things we
saw seven years ago. Guards are stationed here
now, just as they were then.

Many of the large pieces of statuary the owners
did not care to move, are still in the Fine Arts
Building, the only one of all the " White City " that
remains to tell of its existence and recall this most
wonderful, and educational enterprise of this coun-
try in honor of its discovery and its discoverer.
The Larabede Monastery, built after the style of
the one in which Columbus left his little boy while
he made his cruise, is still standing on the Lake
side. In summer it is used as a sanitarium, and in-
valids board here to get the Lake breeze and sun-
shine.

Chicago's new library is a magnificent granite
building which occupies a block. Its interior
decoration passes description, and some who have
seen both, say it compares favorably with the in-
terior of parts of the great Congressional library at
Washington. The interior of Chicago's Public Li-
brary is of white marble, spotlessly clean, and one
marvels that it can be kept so in dirty Chicago. It
is ornamented with mosaic work in green and pearl
and glistens in the sunlight and under the efful-
gence of the numerous incandescent lights, like
diamonds and precious stones.

CHICAGO SKY-SCRAPERS. 251

The effect is most beautiful. At the entrance,
in front of the broad stairway, are two arches of
marble, one higher than the other. On the outer
arch are names of ancient poets and writers of
Greece and Rome; among them Plato, Horace, Vir-
gil, Homer and Livy. On the inner arch are modern
poets and writers — Longfellow, Whittier, Byron,
Irving, Shakespeare and others. Various appro-
priate quotations adorn the niches. One of these
from Milton is : "A good book is the precious
life-blood of a master spirit, embalmed and treas-
ured up on purpose to a life beyond." One from
Bacon says: "The real use of all knowledge is
this, That we should dedicate that reason which was
given us by God, for the use and advantage of
man."

Another from Isaac Barrow says : " He that
loveth a book will never want a faithful friend; a
wholesome counsellor; a cheerful companion; an
effectual comforter," and a quotation on the walls,
from Victor Hugo, says : " A library implies an
act of faith which generations still in darkness hid,
sign in their night, in witness of the dawn." In all
the lettering, the old-fashioned way of using the v
for u is adopted, and which, until one grows accus-
tomed to, makes it difficult to read easily. In the
Chicago Public Library there are 25,000 volumes.

CHAPTER XXII.

MILWAUKEE, THE CITY OF BREWERIES — CHICAGO'S

SABBATH BREAKING THE ZOO BUILDINGS

MOVED FROM PLACE TO PLACE.

A popular trip out of Chicago is the two-hours*
run on the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Rail-
road to Milwaukee. The ride is through a beau-
tiful section of the country, well built up, and with
lovely Lake Michigan in view nearly all the way,
the road running parallel with the Lake, the deep
bluish-green waters and choppy white-caps of
which remind one of the grand old ocean. The
towns en route have Indian names, such as Wah-
kegan, Racine, Kenosha and others of like sound.

Milwaukee is a city of 280,000 inhabitants. It is
not unlike Baltimore in appearance. Its City Hall
is an odd-looking, brown-stone building with a
high tower, occupying a triangular space in the
centre of the town. It reminds one of the No. 9
Engine House in Baltimore. The Milwaukee post-
office is a handsome granite building of recent con-
struction, and worthy a city of much larger size.
There are numerous hotels here handsome in con-

MILWAUKEE'S BREWERIES. 253

struction and elegantly furnished, the Pfeister be-
ing the most " swell " and expensive. The stores
are very fine and a great deal of business is done
here. Milwaukee is quite a thrifty town. It is
largely a German town which is indicated by the
large number of brewers and breweries. Milwau-
kee is noted chiefly for its manufacture of beer, and
the large "Allis" manufactory and steel and iron
works.

Few people know that the site of Chicago was
bought from the Indians for less than the price of a
high-grade bicycle. Chicago is a city of 2,000,000
inhabitants and one of the most progressive cities
in the world, although one of the most stupen-
dously wicked. The Chicago zoological gardens
are said to have no equal in the country. Every
creeping and walking thing upon the earth is to
be found here. It has a larger and finer collec-
tion of animals than Central Park, New York;
Fairmount Park, Philadelphia, and City Park,
Denver, or any other zoo in this country.

In Chicago, some theatres are used for church
service on Sunday morning, and for a vaudeville
Sunday night. There is no more regard for the
Sabbath day in Chicago by the masses, than in
the most benighted regions of earth, where the
Christian religion has never penetrated. It is not
an uncommon thing to see people moving on Sun-

254 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

day in Chicago, and large furniture vans, loaded
with household furniture, being driven along the
streets. Stores are in full blast here on Sunday,
and one can purchase anything he wants from a
shoe-string to a brick-house. It is nothing to see
painters at work painting buildings or decorating
signs on Sunday, and we even saw a gang of men
at work macadamizing a street on the Sabbath.
Nobody seems to think anything of it, and if one
is inclined to remark that there was such a law
given to Moses on Mount Sinai about remember-
ing the Sabbath day, to keep it holy, one is consid-
ered a fossil, or a crank.

This is the only city in the world where a build-
ing was begun at the top and finished on the
ground floor. It is a 1 7-story building, and it
happened in this way : The contractors had erect-
ed the iron and steel skeleton for the building, but
the stone for the lower stories was late in coming,
having been purchased from another State. The
building under contract was to be completed in a
certain time, so the contractors, nothing daunted
(for Chicago people dare to do anything), went to
work on the upper stories. Here, 17 stories up in
the air, they laid the masonry, hung frame for win-
dows, and came down story by story. When they
reached the lower part of the work on the building,
their material for it had arrived. Even Chicago-

CHICAGO'S BUILDINGS. 255

ans, to whom nothing is novel, really gazed amazed
at this building begun at the top and built down-
ward.

One of the novel sights in Chicago is to see three
different lines of transportation, one above the
other. This is to be seen in two different places in
the city. The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul
Railroad has tracks running north and south
through some of the streets. Just above these
tracks, the city's trolley-cars run at the bed of the
street, east and west, and just above the trolley-
cars is the Lake street elevated — making three dif-
ferent lines of transportation, one above the other.

Lake Michigan is about 350 miles long and 86
miles across from Chicago. In summer, handsome
steamers make excursions on the Lake to various
points. On some of these excursions, one is out of
sight of land from two to three hours.

Chicago has all sorts of weather; the most unex-
pected happens here. On November 2nd there
was a snow storm in Chicago; and on November
1 3th a regular thunder storm, characteristic of
July or August, prevailed. 3*Dcroft Library

Moving buildings in Chicago is a common,
every-day occurrence. Some time ago, a six-story
building was lifted from the ground and two stories
put under it. The reason for not building on the
top story was, the lower walls would not have been

256 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

strong enough to sustain the weight of the extra
two stories. A big apartment building was re-
cently moved intact from I2th to I3th street to
make room for the viaduct. The firm of Carson,
Perry and Scott never suspended business a day
while 17 stories were built above their establish-
ment. Some time since, a Chicago gentleman
went to Europe. The house he owned in Chicago,
was, on his return, nowhere to be found. During
his absence, some one had lifted his house and
moved it — to this day he knows not where. Al-
though he employed the detective force and the
police of the city to locate it, he has been unsuccess-
ful. Moving buildings is such a common sight in
Chicago, that no one thought anything of it when
this particular house was moved. It is dangerous
for one to go abroad and leave his house in Chi-
cago, unless it be guarded, as it may walk off be-
fore his return.

CHAPTER XXIII.

POLICE, ALL FOREIGNERS — FINE STORES — THE

ROOKERY BUILDING — MOVING DAY — A

CITY OF MAGNIFICENT DISTANCES.

Home, Sweet Home.

Although Chicago is a progressive city, it is still
primitive in its "wild and woolly" western acts
of " hold up." During a three weeks' stay in this
citv there has not been a single day in which the
daily papers have failed to record not one " hold
up," but several; some of them at noon-day, and in
prominent streets.

This is enough to give any city a black eye, fig-
uratively speaking, but it does not seem to inter-
fere with Chicago's regular routine, or prevent
people coming here. The Chicago police are all
foreigners, and the majority of them are Swedes.
If you ask a Chicago policeman a question, unless
you are a linguist and familiar with all the foreign
tongues, you will not have the faintest idea of his
answer, for it will be anything but English. We
asked two to direct us to the Haymarket statue,
and we are still puzzling our brain to know what
17

258 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

they said in reply, but it sounded much like the
language the Hawaiian villagers used at the Oma-
ha Exposition. However, to us it was Hebrew.
It is said the police force of Chicago are a poor lot,
and certainly from the daily hold-ups there, the
sand-bagging and the little protection offered pe-
destrians after dark, and sometimes even at noon-
day, there is something lacking in this branch of the
municipal government.

Perhaps the statue at Haymarket Square, the
scene of the anarchists' riot and murder of several
police a few years ago, has had some little effect on
the element in that locality. The statue is an im-
posing one of an officer of the law, who, with up-
lifted hand, says in the inscription beneath : " In
the name of the people of the State of Illinois, I
command peace/' Just where the statue stands,
the police were murdered by anarchists during the
Haymarket riot.

Chicago is said to be the only city in the world
that has a store that for many years has not closed
its doors, night or day, for 365 days in every year.
This is a prominent cigar store, and has a night
force as well as a day force of clerks. At night,
they sell cigars and tobacco to those returning from
the theatres; after this, to the newspaper force as
they wend their way homeward in the early morn-
ing hours; by this time, workmen are on their way

THE ROOKERY BUILDING. 259

to their daily labors and stop in for their tobacco,
and so there is no time to close the doors of this
popular cigar store, night or day.

The Rookery Building has a population of
4,000 doing business under one roof. Think of it !
Half the population of Annapolis working daily in
one building.

Something new in the way of desert here is a pie
a la mode. This is apple pie served with ice-cream.
Try it! It is delicious. Another popular way of
serving ice-cream in the West is in the halves of
canteloupes. If the canteloupes are " Rocky
Fords," as those one gets in Colorado, the combi-
nation is very fine, for there are no canteloupes
grown anywhere like the " Rocky Fords."

Chicago has a regular moving day, or rather two
of them, and these are school holidays. Evidently
the children are important factors in the moving
scheme. All leases date from May ist to May ist
of the succeeding year, and this is " moving day."
No matter at what time you rent a house or flat in
Chicago, your claim to that house expires with the
following first day of May, and must then be re-
newed if you intend to remain.

There are no stores in any city, not even ex-
cepting New York, to equal the immense estab-
lishments in Chicago. Many of them employ
thousands of clerks and occupy several acres. In

2<5O WESTERN WANDERINGS. «

one of the stores here, one can buy all the way from
a box of bird-food to a ton of coal, or from a cradle
to a coffin. In this same store there are : a notary
public, two telegraph offices, and a bank. One can
get married in this store if he so desires, as the
magistrate is always on hand. Every thing can
be procured here but a death certificate.

No city in the world pays more attention to win-
dow-decoration than Chicago. At Christmas,
whole plays are enacted in some of the store-win-
dows. The larger stores, occupying several blocks,
have daily displays of the complete furnishings of
every room in a house, and these window-decora-
tions are shown in the most artistic fashion.

Chicago is a city of such magnificent distances
that sometimes to call on one's friend who lives on
the West Side when one lives on the North Side,
he has to travel 30 miles — farther than from An-
napolis to Baltimore, yet in the same city. Some
of the elevated roads have stations at the upper
floors to the entrance of several popular stores. In
this way one can take the elevated, do all the shop-
ping one wants, and not be on the street or from
under cover from start to finish.

Bootblacks do a thriving business in Chicago, for
it is one of the dirtiest, muddiest cities on the con-
tinent; and such black mud, too ! The Windy City
seems to have been built on a marsh, and some one

OUR JOURNEY'S END. 261

has said that some day it will be wiped off the map,
either by being swallowed up in the Lake, or sink-
ing in its own mud-puddle. To build in Chicago,
it is necessary to dig down from 8 to 10 feet, lay
piles (as though for a bridge), and literally anchor
the foundation for the building before erecting the
steel skeleton on which to hang it.

Chicago is indeed a wonderful city, and it would
be futile to even attempt to describe it. We have,
therefore, only mentioned a few of its features
which, perhaps, are not generally known.

And now we bring descriptions of our " Western
Wanderings " to a close, trusting they have been
of some interest, and possibly of benefit to our
readers, and that they have enlightened our eastern
friends on subjects pertaining to this beautiful west-
ern country, through which it has been our good
fortune to travel during the past four months.
When we began the letters, from which this volume
is compiled, it was not our intention to inflict such
a number of them on the unsuspecting public.
Once having begun to tell of the beauties, thrift,
enterprise and progress of this new western coun-
try, we found it difficult to stop.

We are at our journey's end. A 24-hours' ride
on the picturesque Baltimore and Ohio Railroad
will land us in Washington, and another short run
will put us in historic Annapolis-on-the-Severn, our

262 WESTERN WANDERINGS.

" home, sweet home." After all, there is no place
like home, and the prospect of greeting friends and
seeing the old familiar faces, brings with it a pe-
culiar pleasure.

We have been traveling for many long weeks,
We've passed over mountains, rivers and creeks,
We've dwelt in the Rockies, stood on Pike's Peak dome
But there's no place so dear as our Home Sweet Home.

I

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