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Cti,^m-^ JCjr^ '^^ra'<rn^i'Cri^

(SHI

COPYRIGHTED 18S7 BY F. L. GIl-LETTE.

COPYRIGHTED 18S9 BY R. S. PEALE.

1 o the

Wi>7es of ©ur j^residents,

I hose JNIoble Women who ha>7e

(3 raced the White ylouse,

^nd whose JNames and JVlemories

i\re dear to all ^Americans,

I his Volume
Is affectionately dedicated

N presenting this book of recipes to the public, I do so at the urgent
request of friends and relatives. During forty years of practical
housekeeping, it has been my custom, after trying and testing a
recipe, and finding it invariably a success, and also one of the best of its kind,
to copy it in a book, thereby accumulating a considerable amount of reliable and
useful information in the culinary line.

As a convenient form of reference, this book embodies several original and
conunendable features, among which may be mentioned its plain print, its sim-
plified method of explanation in preparing an article, in the order of manipula-
tion, thereby enabling the most inexperienced to clearly comprehend it. Unlike
most books, the leaves are broad, and when opened it will not close of itself^
which obviates the necessity of frequently opening, as is the case with narrow
pages.

The subject of carving has been given a prominent place, not only because
of its special importance in a work of this kind, but particularly because it con-
tains entirely new and original designs, and is so far a departure from the usual
mode of treatiog the subject.

Hoping this book may be acceptable and of service to all housekeepers pos*
sessing a copy,

I am faithfully yours,

Mrs. F. L. Gillette.

PAOB
1

Soups, i • . 21

Fiah, 41

Shell Fish, 57

Poultry and Ckkme, 70

Meats, 94

Mutton and Lamb, 120

Pork, 127

Sauces and Dressing for Meats and Fish, 138

Salads, 1^9

Catsups, 156

Pickles, 159

Yegetables, 169

Macaroni, 192

Butter and Cheese, 194

Eggs, 199

Omelets, 203

Sandwiches, 209

Bread 211

Biscuits, Bolls, Muffins, eta, 221

Toast, 246

Cakes, 251

Pastry, Pies and Tarts 284

Custards, Cream and Desserts, 305

Ice Cream and Ices, 334

Dumplings and Puddings, 339

Sauces for Pudding, 371

Preserves, Jellies, etc., 376

Canned Fruits, 389

Coloring for Fruit and Confectionery, 395

Confectionery, • . • . . 397

Coffee, Tea and Beverages, 408

Preparations for the Sick, 421

Suggestions in regard to Health, 431

Miscellaneous Becipes, .••••••••. 450

Facts worth Knowing, 470

Toilet Becipes and Items, 480

French Words in Cooking, 489

Articles required for the Kitchen, 490

Dyeing or Coloring, 493

Small Points on Table Etiquette, < 49i';

Dinner-giving, 500

Measures and Weights in ordinary use, 504

K^lt'Rrt-Ri'R.'fcR^t t r, r, f* I

^^X>.

r^'^C • "^ ' ''-^ ^'^■^■.

7^^ '"-ui^^-^- ^"' — E%^;^p i^r

<StiQlnal anX> Selected, during a period of

FORTY YEARS'

i ff stilfetl iMii©i@©f 111 i

By Mrs. F. L. Gillette.

Y/^ L F- IvlILLER & CO L

)\N) CHICACO PKILADfLPHIA STOCKTON CAT /

1 •'■"^' '-^A

COPYRIGHTED 1887 BY F. L. GILLITTK.

COrYRlUHTKD 1889 BY R. S. PEALB.

.^ '

Wl^ifee §®yse Qm\\ B©©^.

CARVING.

Carving is one important acquisition in the routine of daily living, and all
should try to attain a knowledge or ability to do it well, and withal gracefully.

When carving use a chair slightly higher than the ordinary size, as it gives
a better purchase on the meat, and appears more graceful than when standing,
as is often quite necessary when carving a turkey, or a very large joint. More
depends on skill than strength. The platter should be placed opposite, and
sufficiently near to give perfect command of the article to be carved, the knife
of medium size, sharp with a keen edge. Commence by cutting the slices thin,
laying them carefully to one side of the platter, then afterwards placing the
desired amount on each guest*s plate, to be served in turn by the servant.

In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes; for if these
are broken the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should acquaint himself
with the choicest parts and morsels; and to give each guest an equal share of
those tidbits should be his maxim. Steel knives and forks should on no account
be used in helping fish, as these are liable to impart a very disagreeable flavor.
A fish-trowel of silver or plated silver is the proper article to use.

Gravies should be sent to the table very Aof, and in helping one to gravy or
melted butter, place it on a vacant side of the plate; not pour it over their meat,
fish or fowl, that they may use only as much as they like.

When serving fowls, or meat, accompanied with stufiing, the guests should
be asked if they would have a portion, as it is not every one to whom the flavor
of stufiing is agreeable; in filling their plates, avoid heaping one thing upon
another, as it makes a bad appearance.

A word about the care of carving knives: a fine steel knife should not come in
contact with intense heat, because it destroys its temper, and therefore impairs
its cutting qualities. Table carving knives should not be used in the kitchen,
either around the stove, or for cutting bread, meats, vegetables, etc.; a fine
whetstone should be kept for sharpening, and the knife cleaned carefully to
avoid dulling its edge, all of which is quite essential to successful carving.

BEEF.

HiND-QUARTEB.

No. 1. Used for choice roasts, the porter-house and suioin steaks.

No. 2. Eximp, used for steaks, stews and corned beef.

No. 3. Aitch-bone, used for boiling-pieces, stews and pot roasts.

No. 4. Buttock or round, used for steaks, pot roasts, beef d la mode; also a prime

boiling-piece.
No. 5. Mouse round, used for boiling and stewing.
No. 6. Shin or leg, used for soups, hashes, etc.
No. 7. Thick flank, cut with under fat, is a prime boiling piece, good for stews

and corned beef, pressed beef.
No. 8. Veiny piece, used for corned beef, dried beef.
No. 9. Thin flank, used for corned beef and boiling-pieces.

FORE-QUARTEB.

No. 10. Five ribs called the fore-rib. This is considered the primest piece for

roasting; also makes the finest steaks.
No. 11. Four ribs, called the middle ribs, used for roasting.
No. 12. Chuck ribs, used for second quality of roasts and steaks.
No. 13. Brisket, used for corned beef, stews, soups and spiced beef.
No. 14. Shoulder-piece, used for stews, soups, pot-roasts, mince-meat, a^d hashes.

BBBF. 3

Nos. 15, 16. Neck, dod or sticfcmg-piece, used for stocks, gravies, soups, mince-
pie meat, hashes, bologna sausages, etc.
No. 17. Shin or shank, used mostly for soups and stewing.
No. 18. Cheek.

The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to the
several joints of beef, when cut up.

FirsA C/c(«i.— Includes the sirloin with the kidney suet (1), the rump steak
piece (2), the forerib (11).

5eco7id C&ws.— The buttock or round (4), the thick flank (7), the middle
ribs (11).

Third Class. — The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-roimd (5), the thin flank (8, 9),
the chuck (12), the shoulder piece (14), the brisket (13).

Fourth CTass.— The clod, neck and sticking piece (15, 16.)

Fifth Class-Shin. or shank (17).

Lamb bom in the middle of the winter, reared under shelter, and fed in a
great measure upon milk, then killed in the spring, is considered a great delicacy,
though lamb is good at a year old. Like all young animaJis, lamb ought to be
thoroughly cooked, or it is most unwholesome.

VEAL.

HlNB-QUARTEB.

.No. 1. Loin, the choicest cuts used for roasts and chops.

No. 2. Fillet, iised for roasts and cutlets.

No. 3. Loin, chump-end used for roasts and chops.

^o. 4. The hind-knuckle or hock, used for stews, pot-pies, meat-pies.

FORE-QUABTEB.

No. 5. Neck, best end used for roasts, stews and chops,
^o. 6. Breast, best end used for roasting, stews and chops.
No. 7. Blade-bone, used for pot- roasts and baked dishes.
No. 8. Fore-knuckle, used for soups and stews.
No. 1^. Breast, brisket-end used for baking, stews and pot-pies.
No. 10. Neck, scrag-end used for stews, broth, meat-pies, etc.

Li cutting up veal, generally, the hind-quarter is divided in loin and leg, and
the fore-quarter into breast, neck and shoulder.

The Several Parts of a Moderately-sizedj well-fed Calf about eight weeks
old, are nearly of the following weights:— Loin and chump, 18 lbs; fillet, 12i lbs. ;
hind knuckle, 5i lbs.; shoulder, 11 lbs.; neck, 11 lbs.; breast, 9 lbs.; and fore-
knuckle, 5 lbs. ; making a total of 144 lbs. weight.

MUTTON.

No. 1. Leg, used for roasts and for boiling.

No. 2. Shoulder, used for baked dishes and roasts.

No. 3. Loin, best end used for roasts, chops.

No. 4. Loin, chump end used for roasts and chops.

No. 5. Back, or rib chops, iised for French chops, rib chops, either for trying or

broiling; also used for choice stews.
No. 6. Breast, used for roast, baked dishes, stews, chops.
No. 7. Neck or scrag end, used for cutlets and stews and meat pies.

Note. — A saddle of mutton or double loin is two loins cut off before the car-
case is spUt open down the back. French chops are a small rib chop, the end of
the bone trimmed off and the meat and fat cut away from the thin end, leaving
the round piece of meat attached to the larger end, which leaves the small rib-
bone bare. Very tender and sweet.

Mutton is prime when cut from a carcase which has been fed out of doors,
and allowed to run upon the hillside; they are best when about three years old.
The fat will then be abundant, white and hard, the flesh juicy and firm, and of
a dear red color.

For mutton roasts, choose the shoulder, the saddle, or the loin or haunch.
The leg should be boiled. Almost any part will do for broth.

PORK.

No. 1. Leg, used for smoked hams, roasts and corned pork.

No. 2. Hind-loin, used for roasts, chops and baked dishes.

No. 3. Fore-loin or ribs, used for roasts, baked dishes or chops.

No. 4. Spare-rib, used for roasts, chops, stews.

No. 5. Shoulder, used for smoked shoulder, roasts and corned pork.

No. 6. Brisket and flank, used for pickling in salt, and smoked bacon.

The cheek is used for pickling in salt, also the shank or shin. The feet are
usually used for souse and jelly.

For family use, the leg is the most economical, that is when fresh, and the
loin the richest. The best pork is from carcases weighing from fifty to about
one hundred and twenty-five pounds. Pork is a white and close meat, and it
is almost impossible to over-roast pork or cook it too much; when underdone it
is exceedingly unwholesome.

VENISON

VENISON.

No. 1. Shoulder, used for roasting; it may be boned and stuffed, then afterwards

baked or roasted.
No. 2. Fore-loin, used for roasts and steaks.
No. 3. Haunch or loin, used for roasts, steaks, stews. The ribs cut close may be

used for soups. Good for pickUng and making into smoked venison.
No. 4. Breast, used for baking dishes, stewing.
No. 5. Scrag or neck, used for soups.

The choice of venison should be judged by the fat, which, when the venison
is young, should be thick, clear and close, and the meat a very dark red. The
flesh of a female deer, about four years old, is the sweetest and best of venison.

Buck venison, which is in season from June to the end of September, is finer
than doe venison, which is in season from October to December. Neither should
be dressed at any other time of year, and no meat requires so much care as
venison in killing, preserving, and dressing.

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

This choice roaating-piece should be cut with one good firm stroke from end
to end of the joint, at the upper part, in thin, long, even slices in the direction
of the line from 1 to 3, cutting across the grain, serving each guest with some
of the fat with the lean; this may be done by cutting a small thin slice from
underneath the bone from 5 to 6, through the tenderloin.

Another way of carving this piece, and which will be of great assistance in
doing it well, is to insert the knife just above the bone at the bottom, and run
sharply along, dividing the meat from the bone at the bottom and end, thus leav-
ing it perfectly flat; then carve in long, thin slices the usual way. When the
bone has been removed and the sirloin rolled before it is cooked, it is laid upon,
the platter on one end, and an even, thin slice is carved across the grain of the
upper surface.

Roast ribs should be carved in thin, even slices fix)m the thick end towards
tiie thin in the same mamier as the sirloin; this can be more easily and cleanly
done if the carving knife is first run along between the meat and the end and
rib-bones, thus leaving it free from bone to be cut into slices.

Tongue. — To carve this, it should be cut crosswise, the middle being the best;
cut in very thin slices, thereby improving its delicacy, making it more tempting;
as is the case of all well-carved meats. The root of the tongue is usually left
on the platter.

BREAST OF VEAL.

This piece is quite similar to a fore-quarter of lamb after the shoulder has-
been taken off. A breast of veal consists of two parts, the rib-bones and the
gristly brisket. These parts may be separated by sharply passing the carving
knife in the direction of the line from 1 to 2; and when they are entirely divided,
the rib bones should be carved in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and the
brisket can be helped by cutting slices from 3 to 4.

The carver should ask the guests whether they have a pi-eference for the-
brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, as is fre-
quently with this roast of veal, each person should receive a piece.

Though veal and lamb contain less nutrition than beef and mutton, in pro*
portion to their weight, they are often preferred to these latter meats on account
of their dehcacy of texture and flavor. A whole breast of veal weighs from nine?
to twelve pounds.

A FILLET OF VEAL.

A Met of veal is oneof the prime roasts of veal; it istaken from the leg above
the knuckle; a piece weighing from ten to twelve pounds is a good size and
requires about four hours for roasting. Before roasting, it is dressed with a
force meat or stuffing placed in the cavity from where the bone was taken out
and the flap tightly secured together with skewers; many bind it together with
tape.

To carve it, cut in even thin slices off from the whole of the upper part or
top, in the same manner as &om a relied roast of beef, as in the direction of
the figures 1 and 2; this gives the person served some of the dressing with each
slice of meat.

Veal is very unwholesome unless it is cooked thoroughly, and when roasted
should be of a rich brewn color. Bacon, fried pork, sausage-balls, with greens
are among the accompaniments of roasted veal, also a cut lemon.

NECK OF VEAL.

The best end of a neck of veal makes a very good roasting-piece; it however
is composed of bone and ribs that make it quite difficult to carve, unless it is
done properly. To attempt to carve each chop and serve it, you would not only
place too large a piece upon the plate of the person you intend to serve; but you
would waste much time, and should the vertebrae have not been removed by the
butcher, you would be compelled to exercise such a degree of strength that
vrould make one's appearance very ungraceful, and possibly, too, throwing gravy
over your neighbor sitting next to you. The correct way to carve this roast is
to cut diagonally from figure 1 to 2, and help in slices of moderate thickness;
ihen it may be cut from 3 to 4, in order to separate the small bones; divide and
serve them, having first inquired if they are desired.

This joint is usually sent to the table accompanied by bacon, ham, tongue, oi
pickled pork on a separate dish and with a cut lemon on a plate. There are aisc
a number of sauces that are suitable with this roast.

LEG OF MUTTON.

The best mutton, and that from which most nourishment is obtained, is that
of sheep from three to six years old, and which have been fed on dry sweet
pastures; then mutton is in its jjrtme, the flesh being Arm, juicy, dark colored,
and full of the richest gravy. When mutton is two years old, the meat is
flabby, pale and savorless.

In carving a roasted leg, the best sUces are found by cutting quite down to
the bone, in the direction from 1 to 2, and slices may be taken from either side.

Some very good cuts are taken from the broad end from 5 to 6, and the fat
on this ridge is very much liked by many. The cramp-bone is a dehcacy, and is
obtained by cutting down to the bone at d, and running the knife under it in
a semicircular direction to 3. The nearer the knuckle the drier the meat, but the
under side contains the most finely grained meat, from which slices may be cut
lengthwise. When sent to the table a frill of paper around the knuckle will im-
prove its appearance.

FORE-QUARTES OF LAMB.

FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.

The first cut to be made in carving a fore-quarter of lamb is to separate the
shoulder from the breast and ribs; this is done by passing a sharp carving knife
lightly around the dotted line as shown by the ^;ures 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut
through the skin, and then, by raising with a Uttle force the shoulder, into
which the fork should be firmly fixed, it will easily separate with just a Uttle
more cutting with the knife; care should be taken not to cut away too much of
the meat from the breast when dividing the shoulder from it, as that would mar
its appearance. The shoulder may be placed upon a separate dish for con-
Tenience. The next process is to divide the ribs from the brisket by cutting
through the meat in the line from 1 to 3; then the ribs may be carved in tlie
direction of the line 6 to 7, and the brisket from 8 to 9. The carver should
always ascertain whether the guest prefers ribs, brisket or a piece of the shoulder.

HAM.

The carver in cutting a ham must be guided according as he desires to prac-
tise economy, or have at once fine slices out of the prime part. Under the first
supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and cut off thin slices towards
the thick and upper part of the ham.

To reach the choicer portion of the ham, the knife, which must be very sharp
and thin, should be carried quite down to the bone through the thick fat in the
direction of the line, from 1 to 2. The slices should be even and thin, cutting
both lean and fat together, always cutting down to the bone. Some cut a circu-
lar hole in the middle of a ham gradually enlarging it outwardly. Then again
many carve a ham by first cutting from 1 to 2, then across the other way from
3 to 4. Bemove the skin after the ham is cooked and send to the table with
dots of dry pepper or dry mustard on the top, a tuft of fringed paper twisted
about the knuckle, and plenty of fresh parsley aroimd the dish. This will always
ensure an inviting appearance.

Boast Pig.— The modem way of serving a pig is not to send it to the table
whole, but have it carved partially by the cook; first, by dividing the shoulder
from the body; then the leg in the same manner; also separating the ribs into
convenient portions. The head may be divided and placed on the same plat-
ter. To be served as hot as possible.

A Spare Rib of Pork is carved by cutting slices from the fleshy part, after
which the bones should be disjointed and separated.

A leg of pork may be carved in the same manner as a ham.

HAUNCH OF VENISON.

A haunch o£ venison is the_prj7ne joint, and is carved very similar to almost
any roasted or boiled leg; it should be first cut crosswise down to the bone fol-
lowing the line from 1 to 2; then turn the platter with the knuckle farthest
from you, put in the point of the knife, and cut down as far as you can, in the
directions shown by the dotted lines from 3 to 4 then there can; be taken out as
many slices as is required on the right and left of this. Slices of venison should
be cut thin, and gravy given witii them, but as there is a spedal sauce made
with red wine and currant jelly to accompany this meat, do not serve gravy
before asking the guest if he pleases to have any.

The fat of this meat is like mutton, apt to cool soon, and become hard and
disagreeable to the palate; it should therefore be served always on warm plates,
and the platter kept over a hot-water dish, or spirit lamp. Many cooks dish it
up with a wbite paper frill pined around the knuckle-bone.

A haunch of mutton is carved the same as a haunch of venison.

TURKEY.

A turl oy having been relieved from strings and skewers used in trussing
should be placed on the table with the head or neck at the carver's right hand.
An expert carver places the fork in the turkey, and does not remove it until the
whole is divided. Krst insert the fork firmly in the lower part of the breast,
just forward of fig. 2, then sever the legs and wings on both sides, if the whole
is to be carved, cutting neatly through the joint next to the body, letting these
parts lie on the platter. Next, cut downward from the breast from 2 to 3, as
many even slices of the white meat as may be desired, placing the pieces neatly
on one side of the platter. Now unjoint the legs and wings at the middle joint,
which can be done very skillfully by a little practice. Make an opening into the
cavity of the turkey for dipping out the inside dressing, by cutting a piece from
the rear part 1, 1, called the apron. Consult the tastes of the guests as to which
part is preferred; if no choice is expressed, serve a portion of both light and dai-k
meat. One of the most delicate parts of the turkey, are two little muscles, ly-
ing in small dish-like cavities on each side of the back, a httle behind the leg
attachments; the next most delicate meat fills the cavities in the neck bone, and
next to this, that on the second joints. The lower part of the leg (or drum-
stick, as it is called) being hard, tough, and stringy is rarely ever helped to any
one, but allowed to remain on the dish.

-aisHBt^^^

ROAST GOOSE— FO WLS. I ^

ROAST GOOSE.

To carve a goose, first begin by separating the leg from the body, by putting
the fork into the small end of the limb, pressing it closely to the body, then
passing the knife under at 2, and turning the leg back as you cut through the
joint. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and
press it close to the body; put the knife in at figure 1, and divide the joint.
When the legs and wings are oflf, the breast may be carved in long even slices,
as represented in the lines from 1 to 2. The back and lower side bones, as well
as the two lower side bones by the wing, may be cut off; but the best pieces of
the goose are the breast and thighs, after being separated from the drum-sticks.
Serve a Uttle of the dressing from the inside, by making a circular shoe in the
apron at figure 3. A goose should never be over a year old; a tough goose is
very difficult to carve, and certainly most difficult to eat

FOWLS.

First insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone;
then turn the leg back with the fork, and if the fowl is tender the joint will give
away easily. The wing is broken oflf the same way, only dividing the joint with
the knife, in the direction from 1 to 2. The four quarters having been removed
in this way, take oflf the merry-thought and the neck-bones; these last are to bo
removed by putting the knife in at figure 3 and 4, pressing it hard, when they
will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. To separate the breast
from the body of the fowl, cut through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite
down to the tail. Now turn the fowl over, back upwards; put the knife into
the bone midway between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end
it will separate readily. Turn now the rump from you, and take off very neatly
the two side-bones and the fowl is carved. In separating the thigh from the
drum-stick, the knife must be inserted exactly at the joint, for if not accurately
hit, some difficulty will be experienced to get them apart; this is easily acquired
by practice. There is no difference in carving roast and boiled fowls if full
grown; but in very young fowls, the breast is usually served whole; the wings
and breast are considered the best part, but m young ones the legs are the most
juicy. In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off at the breast,
the same as carving a pheasant.

ROAST DUCK— PARTRIDGES.

ROAST DUCK.

A young ducklii^ may be carved in the same manner as a fowl, the \&^ and
"wings beiog taken off first on either side. When the duck is full size, carve it
like a goose; first cutting it in slices from the hreast, beginning close to the
wing and proceeding upward towards the breast bone, as is represented by the
lines 1 to 2. An opening may be made, by cutting out a circular slice as shown
by the dotted lines at number 3.

Some are fond of the feet, and when dressing the duck, these should be
neatly skinned and never removed. Wild duck is highly esteemed by epicures;
it is trussed like a tame duck, and carved in the same manner, the breast being
the choicest part.

PARTRIDGES.

Partridges are generally cleaned and trussed the same way as a pheasant, but
the custom of cooking them with the heads on is going into disuse somewhat.
The usual way of carving them is similar to a pigeon, dividing it into two equal
parts. Another method is to cut it into three pieces, by severing a wing and
1^ on either side from the body, by following the lines 1 to 2, thus making two
servings of those parts, leaving the breast for a third plate. The third method
is to thrust back the body from the legs, and cut through the middle of the
breast, thus making four portions that may be served. Grouse and prairie-
chicken are carved from the breast when they are laige, and quartered or
halved when of medium size.

FHEA SANT— PIGEONS.

PHEASANT.

Place yoxir fork firmly in the centre of the breast of this large game bird and
cut deep slices to the bone at figures 1 and 2; then take off the leg in the line
from 3 and 4 and the wing 3 and 5, severing both sides the same. In taking off
the wings, be careful not to cut too near the neck; if you do you will hit upon
the neck-bone, from which the wing must be separated. Pass the knife through
the line 6, and under the merry- thought towards the neck, which will detach it.
Cut the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and merry-thought of a
pheasant, are the most highly prized, although the legs are considered very
finely flavored. Pheasants are frequently roasted with the bead left on; in that
case, when dressing them, bring the head round under the wing, and fix it on the
point of a skewer.

PIGEONS

A very good way of carving these birds is to insert the knife at figure 1, and
cut both ways to 2 and 3, when each portion may be divided into two pieces,
then served. Pigeons, if not too large, may be cut in halves, either across or
dovni the middle, cutting them into two equal parts; if young and small they
may be served entirely whole.

Tame pigeons should be cooked as soon as possible after they are killed, as
they very quickly lose their flavor. Wild pigeons, on the contrary, should hang
a day or two in a cool place before they are dressed. Oranges cut into halves
are used as a garnish for dishes of small birds, such as pigeons, quails, woodcock,
squabs, snipe, etc. These small birds are either served whole or split down the
back, making two servings.

MACKEREI^BOILED SALMON.

MACKEREL.

The mackerel is one of the most beautiful of fish, being known by their
silvery whiteness. It sometimes attains to the length of twenty inches, but
usually, when fully grown, is about fourteen or sixteen inches long, and about
two pounds in weight. To carve a baked mackerel, first remove the head and
tail by cutting downward at i and 2; then split them down the back, so as
to serve each person a part of each side piece. The ix>e should be divided in
small pieces and served with each piece of fish. Other whole fish may be carved
in the same manner. The fish is laid upon a little sauce or folded napkin, on
a hot dish, and garnished with parsley.

BOILED SALMON.
This fish is seldom sent to the table whole, being too Lirge for any ordinary
sized famfly; the middle cut is considered the choicest to boil. To carve it, first
run the knife down and along the upper side of the fish from 1 to 2, then again
on the lower side from 3 to 4. Serve the thick part-, cutting it lengthwise in
slices in the direction of the line from 1 to 2, and the thin part breadthwise, or
in the direction from 5 to 6. A sUce of the thick with one of the thin, where
lies the fat, should be served to each guest. Care should be taken when carv-
ing not to break the flakes of the fish, as that iinpalrs its appearance. The
flesh of the salmon is rich and dehcious in flavor. Salmon is in season
from the flrst of February to the end of August.

^ CN(g>itt/3)/o

Consomm6, or Stock, forms the basis of all meat soups, and also of all princi-
pal sauces. It is, therefore, essential to the success of these culinary operations
to know the most complete and economical method of extracting from a certain
quantity of meat the best possible stock or broth. Fresh micooked beef makes
the best stock, with the addition of cracked bones, as the glutinous matter con-
tained in them renders it important that they should be boiled with the meat,
which adds to the strength and thickness of the soup. They are composed of
an earthy substance — to which they owe their soUdity — of gelatine, and a fatty
fluid, something like marrow. Tivo ounces of them contain as much gelatine
as one pound of meat; but in them, this is so encased in the earthy substance,
that boiling water can dissolve only the surface of the whole bones, but by
breaking them they can be dissolved more. When there is an abundance of it,
it causes the stock, when cold, to become a jelly. The flesh of old animals
contains more flavor than the flesh of young ones. Brown meats contain more
flavor than white.

Mutton is too strong in flavor for good stock, while veal, although quite
glutinous, f mnishes very Uttle nutriment.

Some cooks use meat that has once been cooked; this renders little nourish-
ment and destroys the flavor. It might answer for ready soup, but for stock to
keep it is not as good, unless it should be roasted meats. Those contain higher
fragrant properties; so by putting the remains of roast meats in the stock-pot
you obtain a better flavor.

The shin bone is generally used, but the neck or "sticking piece,'' as the
butchers call it, contains more of the substance that you want to extract, makes
a stronger and more nutritious soup, than any other part of the animal. Meats
for soup should always be put on to cook in cold water, in a covered pot, and
allowed to simmer slowly for several hours, in order that the essence of the
meat may be drawn out thoroughly, and should be carefully skimmed to pre-

22 SOUJPS.

vent it from becoming turbid, never allowed to boil fast at any time, and if more
water is needed, use boiling water from the tea-kettle; cold or lukewarm water
spoils the flavor. Never salt it before the meat is tender (as that hardens and
toughens the meat), especially if the meat is to be eaten. Take off every parti-
cle of scum as it rises, and before the vegetables are put in. ,

Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone, and a
teaspoonful of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If for clear soups
strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a dean towel in a colander set over
an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough to hold the stock. As stated before,
stock is not as good when made entirely from cooked meats, but in a family
where it requires a large joint roasted every day, the bones and bits and under-
done pieces of beef, or the bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been
left from carving, bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting a rich
dark color to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as above, to furnish a
family, without buying fresh meat for the purpose; still, with the addition of a
little fresh meat it would be more nutritious. In cold weather you can gather
them up for several days and put them to cook in cold water, and when done,
strain, and put aside until needed.

Soup will be as good the second day as the first if heated to the boiling
point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be turned into a dish or
shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never cover it up, as that will cause it
to turn sour very quickly.

Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this be
melted in, the flavor of the soup will certainly be spoiled.

Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin soups or
broth.

Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown burnt
sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks.

Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup. Parsley, or the
green leaves of celery, put in soup will serve instead of spinach.

Pound a large handful of spinach in a mortar, then tie it in a cloth, and
wring out all the juice; put this in the soup you wish to color green, five min-
utes before taking it up.

Mock turtle, and sometimes veal and lamb soups, should be this color.

Ochras gives a green color to soup.

To color soup red, skin six red tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds and put them
into the soup with the other vegetables— or take the juice only as directed for
spinach.

SOUFS.

For white soups, which are of veal, lamb or chicken, none but white vegeta-
bles are used; rice, pearl barley, vermicelli, or macaroni for thickening.

Grated carrot gives a fine amber color to soup; it must be put in as soon as
the soup is free from scum.

Hotel and private-house stock is quite different.

Hotels use meat in such large quantities, that there is always more or
less trimmings and bones of meat to add to fresh meats; that makes very
strong stock, which they use in most all soups and gravies and other made
dishes.

The meat from which soup has been made is good to serve cold thus: take
out all the bones, season with pepper and salt, and catsup, if hked, then chop
it small, tie it in a cloth, and lay it between two plates, with a weight on the
upper one; slice it thin for luncheon or supper; or make sandwiches of it; or
make a hash for breakfast; or make it into balls, with the addition of a Uttle
wheat flour and an egg, and serve them fried in fat, or boil in the soup.

An agreeable flavor is sometimes imparted to soup by sticking some cloves
into the meat used for making stock; a few slices of onions fried very brown
in butter are nice; also floiu* browned by simply putting it into a saucepan over
the fire and stirring it constantly until it is a dark brown.

Clear soups must be perfectly transparent and thickened soups about the
consistence of cream. When soups and gravies are kept from day to day in hot
weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded paus
or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperate weather, every other day
may be sufficient.

HERBS AND VEGETABLES USED IN SOUPS.

Of vegetables the principal ones are can-ots, tomatoes, asparagus, green peas,
okra, macaroni, green com, beans, rice, vermicelli, Scotch barley, pearl barley,
wheat flour, mushroom or mushroom catsup, parsnips, beet-root, turnips, leeks,
garUc, shalots and onions; sliced onions fried with butter and flour until they
are browned, then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the color and
flavor of brown sauces and soups. The herbs usually used in soups are parsley,
common thyme, summer savory, knotted marjoram, and other seasonings such
as bay-leaves, tarragon, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, mace, black and
white pepper, red pepper, lemon-peel and juice, orange peel and juice. The
latter imparts a finer flavor and the acid much milder. These materials, with
wine, and the various catsups, combined in various proportions, are, with other
ingredients, made into almost an endless variety of excellent soups and gravies*

24 SOUPS.

Soups that are inteiided for the principal part of a meal certamlj ought not to
be flavored like sauces, which are only intended to give relish to some particular
dish«

STOCK.

Six pounds of shin of beef, or six pounds of knuckle of veal; any bones, trim-
mings of poultry, or fresh meat; one-quarter pound of lean bacon or ham, two
ounces of butter, two large onions, each stuck with cloves; one turnip, three
carrots, one head of celery, two ounces of salt, one-half teaspoonful of whole
I)epper, one large blade of mace, one bunch of savory herbs except sage, four
quarts and one-half pint of cold water.

Cut up the meat and bacon, or ham, into pieces of about three inches
square; break the bones into small pieces, rub the butter on the bottom of the
stewpan; put in one-half a pint of water, the broken bones, then meat and all
other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally
stirring its contents. When the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale,
jelly-like substance, add the four quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently
for five or six hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. When
nearly cooked, throw in a tablespoonful of salt to assist the scum to rise. Be-
move every particle of scum whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair
sieve; when cool remove all grease. This stock will keep for many days in cold
weather.

Stock is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and this will
be foimd quite strong enough for ordinary purposes. Keep it in small jars, in a
cool place. It makes a good gravy for hash meats; one tablespoonful of it is
sufficient to impart a fine flavor to a dish of macaroni and various other dishes.
Good soups of various kinds are made from it at short notice; slice off a portion
of the jelly, add water, and whatever vegetables and thickening preferred. It is
best to partly cook the vegetables before adding to the stock, as much boiling
injures the flavoring of the soup. Season and boil a few moments and serve
hot.

WHITE STOCK.

White stock is used in the preparation of white soups, and is made by boil-
ing six pounds of a knuckle of veal, cut up in small pieces, poultry trimmings,
and four sUces of lean ham. Proceed according to directions given in " Stock, '^
above.

SOUPS. 25

TO CLARIFY STOCK.

Place the stock in a clean saucepan, set it over a brisk fire. When boiling, add
the white of one egg to each quart of stock, proceeding as follows: beat the
whites of the eggs up well in a little water; then add a little hot stock; beat to
a froth, and pour gradually into the pot; then beat the whole hard and long;
allow it to boil up once, and immediately remove and strain through a thin flan-
nel cloth.

BEEF SOUP.

Select a small shin of beef of moderate size, crack the bone in small pieces,
wash and place it in a kettle to boil, with five or six quarts of cold water. Let
it boil about two hours, or until it begins to get tender, then season it with a.
tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper; boil it one hour longer, then
add to it one carrot, two turnips, two tablespoonfuls of rice or pearl barley, one
head of celery aud a teaspoonful of summer savoiy powdered fine; the vegetables
to be minced up in small pieces like dice. After these ingredients have boiled
a quarter of an horn*, put in two potatoes cut up in small pieces; let it boil half
an hour longer, take the meat from the soup, and if intended to be served with
it, take out the bones and lay it closely and neatly on a dish, and garnish with
sprigs of parsley.

Serve made mustard and catsup with it. It is very nice pressed and eaten
cold with mustard and vinegar, or catsup. Four hours are required for making
this soup. Should any remain over the first day, it may be heated, with the
addition of a little boiling water, and served again. Some fancy a glass of brown
sherry added just before being served. Serve very hot.

VEAL SOUP. (Excellent.)

Put a knuckle of veaJ into three quarts of cold water, with a small quantity
of salt, and one small tablespoonful of imcooked rice. Boil slowly, hardly
above simmering, four hours, when the liquor should be reduced to half the
usual quantity; remove from the fire. Into the tureen put the yolk of one egg,
and stir well into it a teacupful of cream, or, in hot weather, new milk; add a
piece of butter the si/,e of a hickory nut; on this strain the soup, boiling hot,
stirring all the time. ist at the last, beat it well for a minute.

•VIUTTON BROTH.

Six pounds iv; <; quarts water, five carrots, five tiunips, two

onions, four tablesj^w ais barley, a little salt. Soak mutton in water for an

26 SOUPS.

hour, cut off scrag, and put it in stewpan with three quarts of water. As soon
as it boils, stdm well, and then simmer for one and one-half hours Cut best
end of mutton into cutlets, dividing it with two bones in each; take off nearly
all fat before you put it into broth; skim the moment the meat boils, and every
ten minutes afterwards; add carrots, turnips and onions, all cut into two or three
pieces, then put them into soup soon enough to be thoroughly done; stir in bar*
ley; add salt to taste; let all stew together for three and one-half hours: about
one-half hour before sending it to table, put in little chopped parsley and serve.

Cut the mes^t off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to table in the tureen
with the soup. The other half of the mutton should be served on a separate
dish, with whole turnips boiled and laid round it. Many persons are fond of
mutton that has been boiled in soup.

You may thicken the soup with rice or barley that has first been soaked in
cold water; or with green peas; or with young com, cut down from the cob;
or with tomatoes scalded, peeled and cut into pieces.

GAME SOUP.

Two grouse or partridges, or, if you have neither, use a pair of rabbits; half
a pound of lean ham; two medium-sized onions; one poimd of lean beef; fried
bread; butter for frying; pepper, salt, and two stalks of white celery cut into
inch lengths; three quarts of water.

Joint your game neatly; cut the ham and onicns into small pieces, and fry
all in butter to a light brown. Put into a soup-pot with the beef, cut into strips,
and a little pepper. Pour on the water; heat slowly, and stew gently two hours.
Take out the pieces of bird, and cover in a bowl; cook the soup an hour longer;
strain; cool; drop in the celery, and simmer ten minutes. Pour upon fried
bread in the tureen.

Venison soup made the same, with the addition of a tablespoonful of brown
flour wet into a paste with cold water, adding a tablespoonful of catsup, Worces-
tershire, or other pungent sauce, and a glass of Madeira or brown sherry.

WHITE MUSHROOM SOUP.

A knuckle of veal and a scant quart of water to each poimd that it weighs,

and, if the flavor is not objected to, a slice of boiled or scalded ham. (Be sure,

if you use xmboiled ham, to remove rind and trim away the dark edges.) If the

knuckle weighs four poimds, use a medium-sized carrot, ttimip, onion, two

cloves, a bay leaf, two large sprigs of parsley (and two of thyme if you have it.)

SOUPS. 27

Put the four quarts of water to the veal, which should have been gashed
well and the bone broken in several places before it is put into the pot. Let it
come very slowly to the boiling point, and skim it carefully. When it boils put
in the vegetables and, just as it again boils, skim again, and then set the pot
back. Watch it for a time till you find out where it will just boil and no more.
This point is indicated by a bubble rising in the centre of the pot and breaking
every few seconds. This is what is meant by slow boiUng; and soup of any
kind, made in this way, will have a finer flavor than if allowed to boil quickly
and be quite clear. When this has boiled five hours strain it through muslin.

While this stock is being made put into a saucepan four tablespoonf uls of flour
and four of butter. Stir them till they bubble. Let them cook together for a
minute, stirring the while. Then pour into them quickly, and still stirring, two
quarts of the hot veal stock. Let them boil together one minute. This is now
like thick, smooth, white sauce. Stir into it two quarts of boiled new milk,
and, if you have it, a pint of sweet thick cream. Stir these together, but do
not boil them. Next day make the soup boiUng hot, skim it, and put into it a
can of French mushrooms with the Uquor, and two teaspoonf uls of salt, and half

a teaspoonful of white pepper. Do not let it boil more than once or it may
curdle.

This will make nine pints of soup. If more is required, increase milk, butter,
and flour, etc. , in the proportion of one oimce of butter and one of flour to each
quart of soup, and one quart of milk to each quart of stock.

CHICKEN CREAM SOUP.

An old chicken for soup is much the best. Cut it up into quarters, put it
into a soup kettle with half a poimd of corned ham, and an onion; add four
quarts of cold water. Bring slowly to a gentle boil, and keep this up until the
liquid has diminished one-third, and the meat drops from the bones; then add
half a cup of rice. Season with salt, pepper, and a bimch of chopped parsley.

Cook slowly until the rice is tender, then the meat should be taken out.
Now, stir in two cups of rich milk thickened with a Uttle flour. The chicken
could be fried in a spoonful of butter and a gravy made, reserving some of the
white part of the meat, chopping it and adding it to the soup.

PLAIN ECONOMICAL SOUP.

Take a cold-roast-beef bone, pieces of beef -steak, the rack of a cold turkey or
chicken. Put them into a pot with three or four quarts of water, two carrots,
three turnips, one onion, a few cloves, pepper and salt. Boil the whole gently

28 SOUFS.

four hours; then strain it through a colander^ mashing the vegetables so that
they will all pass through. Skim oflf the fat, and return the soup to the pot.
Mix one tablespoonful of flour with two of water, stir it into the soup and boil
the whole ten ininutes. Serve this soup with sippets of toast.

Sippets are bits of dry toast cut into a triangular form.

A seasonable dish about the holidays.

OX-TAIL SOUP.

Two ox-tails, two shoes of ham, one ounce of butter, two carrots, two turnips^
three onions, one leek, one head of celery, one bunch of savory herbs, pepper, a
tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of catsup, one-half glass of port wine,
three quarts of water.

Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and put
them in a stewpan with the butter. Cut the vegetables in shoes and add them with
the herbs. Put in one-half pint of water, and stir it over a quick fire till the
juices are drawn. Fill up the stewpan with water, and when boiling, add the salt.
Skim well, and simmer very gently for four hours, or until the tails are tender.
Take them out, skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavor with the
catsup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for five minutes and serve.

Another way to make an appetizing ox- tail soup. You should begin to make it
the day before you wish to eat the soup. Take two tails, wash clean, and put
in a kettle with nearly a gallon of cold water; add a small handful of salt;
when the meat is well cooked, take out the bones. Let this stand in a cool
room, covered, and next day, about an hour and a half before dinner, skim off
the crust or cake of fat which has risen to the top. Add a Uttle onion, carrot,
or any vegetables you choose, chopping them fine first; sxunmer savory may
also be added.

CORN SOUP.

Cut the com from the cob, aad boil the cobs in water for at least an hour,
then add the grains, and boil until they are thoroughly done; put one dozen
ears of com to a gallon of water, which will be reduced to three quarts by the
time the soup is done; then pour on a pint of new milk, two well-beaten eggs,
salt and pepper to your taste; continue the boiling a while longer, and stir in, to
season and thicken it a little, a tablespoonful of good butter rubbed up with two
tablespoonfuls of flour. Com soup may also be made nicely with water in
which a pair of grown fowls have been boiled or parboiled, instead of having
plain water for the foundation.

SOUPS. 29

SPLIT PEA SOUP. No. i.

Wash well a pint of split peas and cover them well with cold water, adding
a third of a teaspoonful of soda; let them remain in it over night to swell. In
the morning put them in a kettle with a close fitting cover. Pour over them
three quarts of cold water, adding half a pound of lean ham or bacon cut into
slices or pieces; also a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, and some celery
chopped fine. When the soup begins to boil, skim the froth from the siuf ace.
Cook slowly from three to four hours, stirring occasionally till the peas are all
dissolved, adding a little more boiling water to keep up the quantity as it boils
away. Strain through a colander, and leave out the meat. It should be quite
thick. Serve with small squares of toasted bread, cut up and added. If not
rich enough, add a small piece of butter.

SPLIT PEA SOUP. No. 2.

One pint of split peas, previously soaked in cold water over night; wash in
cold water and drain; add two-thirds of a medium-sized carrot sliced; one onion
quartered, with a clove stuck into each piece; two ounces of fat salt pork cut
into dice. Make a bouquet of the following herbs: one sprig of parsley, thyme,
celery and one bay leaf tied together; if not obtainable use one half teaspoonful
of celery salt. Put on altogether over a brisk fire with three quarts of cold
water. When it boils up, set back and allow to cook slowly about three hours
or until done. Season with salt and pepper, strain and serve.

— Frmn Astor House Recipe,

GREEN PEA SOUP.

Wash a small quarter of lamb in cold water, and put it into a soup-pot with
six quarts of cold water; add to it two tablespoonfuls of salt, and set it over a
moderate fire — let it boil gently for two hours, then skim it clear; add a quart
of shelled peas, and a teaspoonful of pepper; cover it, and let it boil for half an
hour; then having scraped the skins from a quart of small young potatoes, add
them to the soup; cover the pot and let it boil for half an hour longer; work
quarter of a pound of butter and a dessert spoonful of flour together, and add
them to the soup ten or twelve minutes before taking it off the fire.

Serve the meat on a dish with parsley sauce over, and the soup in a tureen.

DRIED BEAN SOUP.

Put two quarts of dried white beans to soak the night before you make the
soup, which should be put on as early in the day as possible.

30 SOUPS.

Take two pounds of the lean of fresh beef— the coarse pieces will do. Out
them up, and put them into your soup-pot with the bones belonging to them,
(which should be broken in pieces,) and a pound of lean bacon, cut very smalL
If you have the remains of a piece of beef that has been roasted the day before,
and so much under-done that the juices remain in it, you may put it into the
pot and its bones along with it. Season the meat with pepper only, and pour
on it six quarts of water. As soon as it boils, take off -the scum, and put in the
beans (having first drained them) and a head of celery cut small, or a table-
spoonful of pounded celery seed. Boil it slowly till the meat is done to shreds,
and the beans all dissolved. Then strain it through a colander into the tureen,
and put into it small squares of toasted bread with the crust cut off.

TURTLE SOUP FROM BEANS.

Soak over night one quart of black beans; next day boil them in the proper
quantity of water, say a gallon, then dip the beans out of the pot and strain
them through a colander. Then return the flour of the beans, thus pressed, into
the pot in which they were boiled. Tie up in a thin cloth some thyme, a tea-
spoonful of summer savory and parsley, and let it boil in the mixture. Add a
tablespoonf ul of cold butter, salt and pepper. Have ready four hard-boiled yolks
of eggs quartered, and a few force meat balls; add this to the soup with a shced
lemon, and half a glass of wine just before serving the soup.

This approaches so near in flavor to the real turtle soup that few are able to
distinguish the difference.

PHILADELPHIA PEPPER POT.

Put two pounds of tripe and four calves' feet into the soup-pot and cover
them with cold water; add a red pepper, and boil closely until the calves' feet
are boiled very tender; take out the meat, skim the liquid, stir it, cut the tripe
into small pieces, and put it back into the liquid; if there is not euough hquid,
add boiling water; add half a teaspoonful of sweet marjoram, sweet basil, and
thyme, two sliced onions, shced potatoes, salt. When the vegetables have
boiled until almost tender, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, drop in some egg
balls, and boU fifteen minutes more. Take up and serve hot.

SQUIRREL SOUP.

Wash and quarter three or four good sized squirrels; put them on, with a
small tablespoonf ul of salt, directly after breakfast, in a gallon of cold water.

sours. 3 1

Cover the pot close, and set it on the back part of the stove to simmer gently,
not boil. Add vegetables just the same as you do in case of other meat soups
in the summer season, but especially good will you find com, Irish potatoes,
tomatoes and Lima beans. Strain the soup through a coarse colander when the
meat has boiled to shreds, so as to get rid of the squirrel's troublesome Uttle
bones. Then return to the pot, and after boiUng a while longer, thicken with a
piece of butter rubbed in flour. Celery and parsley leaves chopped up are also
considered an improvement by many. Toast two slices of bread, cut them into
dice one half inch square, fry them in butter, put them into the bottom of
yoin: tm:een, and then pour the soup boiling hot upon them. Very good.

TOMATO SOUP. No. i.

Place in a kettle four pounds of beef. Pom* over it one gallon of cold water.
Let the meat and water boil slowly for three hours, or until the liquid is reduced
to about one-half. Remove the meat and put into the broth a quart of tomatoes,
and one chopped onion; salt and pepper to taste. A teaspoonful of flour should
be dissolved and stirred in, then allowed to boil half an horn: longer. Strain
and serve hot. Canned tomatoes, in place of fresh ones, may be used.

TOMATO SOUP. No. 2.

Place over the fire a quart of peeled tomatoes, stew them soft with a pinch
of soda. Strain it so that no seeds remain, set it over the fire again, and add a
quart of hot boiled milk; season with salt and pepper, a piece of butter the size
of an egg, add three tablespoonfuls of rolled cracker, and serve hot. Canned
tomatoes may be used in place of fresh ones.

TOMATO SOUP. No. 3.

Peel two quarts of tomatoes, boil them in a sauce-pan with an onion, and
other soup vegetables; strain and add a level tablespoonful of flour dissolved in
a third of a cup of melted butter; add pepper and salt. Serve very hot over
little squares of bread fried brown and crisp in butter.

An excellent addition to a cold meat lunch.

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. (As made in India.)

Cut four onions, one carrot, two turnips, and one head of celery into three
quarts of liquor, in which one or two fowls have been boiled; keep it over a brisk

32 SOUPS.

fire, till it boils, then place it on a comer of the fire, and let it simmer twenty min-
utes; add one tablespoonful of currie powder, and one tablespoonful of floxir; mi-r
the whole well together, and let it boil three minutes; pass it through a colander;
serve with pieces of roast chicken in it; add boiled rice in a separate dish. It
must be of good yellow color, and not too thick. If you find it too thick, add a
little boiling water and a teaspoonful of sugar. Half veal and half chicken an-
swers as well.

A dish of rice, to be served separately with this soup, must be thus prepared:
put three pints of water in a sauce-pan and one tablespoonful of salt; let this
boil. Wash well, in three waters, half a poimd of rice; strain it, and put it into
the boiling water in sauce-pan. After it has come to the boil — which it will do
in about two minutes— let it boil twenty minutes; strain it through a colander,
and pour over it two quarts of cold water. This will separate the grains of rice.
Put it back in the sauce-pan, and place it near the fire until hot enough to send
to the table. This is also the proper way to' boil rice for curries. If these direc-
tions are strictly carried out every grain of the rice will separate, and be thor-
oughly cooked.

MOCK TURTLE SOUP, OF CALF'S HEAD.

Scald a weU-cleansed calf's head, remove the brain, tie it up in a cloth, and
boil an hour, or until the meat wiU easily slip from the bone; take out, save the
broth; cut it in small, square pieces, and throw them into cold water; when
cool, put it in a stewpan, and cover with sr me of the broth; let it boil until
quite tender, and set aside.

In another stewpan melt some butter, and in it put a quarter of a pound of
lean ham, cut small, with fine herbs to taste; also parsley and one onion; add
about a pint of the broth; let it simmer for two hours, and then dredge in a
small quantity of flour; now add the remainder of the broth, and a quarter bot-
tle of Madeira or sherry; let all stew quietly for ten minutes and rub it through
a mediiun sieve; add the calf's head, season with a very httle cayenne pepper, a
little salt, the juice of one lemon, and if desired, a quarter teaspoonful pounded
mace and a dessert-spoon sugar.

Having previously prepared force-meat balls, add them to the soup, and five
minutes after serve hot.

GREEN TURTLE SOUP.

One turtle, two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, juice of one lemon, five quarts
of water, a glass of Madeira.

SOUPS.

After removing the entrails, cut up the coarser parts of the turtle meat and
bones. Add four quarts of water, and stew four hours with the herbs, onions,
pepper and salt. Stew very slowly, do not let it cease boiling during this time.
At the end of four hours strain the soup, and add the flbaer parts of the turtle
and the green fat, which has been simmered one hour in two quarts of water.
Thicken with brown flour; return to the soup-pot, and simmer gently for an
hour longer. If there are eggs in the turtle, boil them in a separate vessel for
four hours, and throw into the soup before taking up. K not, put in force-meat
balls; then the juice of the lemon, and the wine; beat up at once and pour out.

Some cooks add the finer meat before straining, boiling all together five
hours; then strain, thicken, and put in the green fat, cut mto lumps an inch
long. This makes a handsomer soup than if the meat is left in.

Green turtle can now be purchased preserved in air-tight cans.

Force Meat Balls for the Above, — Six tablespoonfuls of turtle-meat chopped
very fine. Eub to a paste, with the yolk of two hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoon-
f ul of butter, and, if convenient a little oyster Uquor. Season with cayenne,
mace, and half a teaspoonful of white sugar and a pinch of salt. Bind all with
a well-beaten egg; shape into small balls; dip in egg, then powdered cracker;
fry in butter, and drop into the soup when it is served.

MACARONI SOUP.

To a rich beef or other soup, in which there is no seasoning other than pep-
per or salt, take half a pound of small pipe macaroni, boil it in clear water until
it is tender, then drain it and cut it in pieces of an inch length; boil it for fifteen
minutes in the soup and serve.

TURKEY SOUP.

Take the turkey bones and boil three-quarters of an horn: in water enough to
cover them; add a Uttle siunmer savory and celery chopped fine. Just before
serving, thicken with a httle flour (browned), and season with pepper, salt,
and a smaU piece of butter. This is a cheap but good soup, using the remains of
cold turkey which might otherwise be thrown away.

GUMBO OR OKRA SOUP.

Fry out the fat of a slice of bacon or fat ham, drain it off, and in it fry the

shoes of a large onion brown; scald, peel, and cut up two quarts fresh tomatoes,

when in season, (use canned tomatoes otherwise), and cut thin one quart okra;

r:f Jr.' ■ ;

34 SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT.

pat ihem, together with a Uttle chopped parsley, in a stew-kettle with about
three quarts of hot broth of any kind; cook slowly for three hours, season with
salt and pepper. Serve hot.

In chicken broth the same quantity of okra pods, used for thickening instead
of tomatoes, forms a chicken gumbo soup.

TAPIOCA CREAM SOUP.

One quart of white stock; one pint of cream or milk; one onion; two stalks
celery; one-third of a cupful of tapioca; two cupfuls of cold water; one table-
spoonful of butter; a small piece of mace; salt, pepper. Wash the tapioca and
soak over night in cold water. Cook, it and the stock together very gently for
one hour. Cut the onion and celery into small pieces, and put on to cook for
twenty minutes with the milk and mace. Strain on the tapioca and stock.
Season with salt and i)epper, add butter, and serve.

Soups Mitbout ^eat

ONION SOUP-

One quart of milk, six large onions, yolks of four eggs, three tablespoonfuls
of butter, a large one of flour, one cupful of cream, salt, pepper. Put the but-
ter in a frying pan. Cut the onions into thin slices and drop in the butter. Stir
until they begin to cook; then cover tight and set back where they will sinmier,
but not bum, for half an hour. Now put the milk on to boil, and then add the
dry flour to the onions and stir constantly for three minutes over the fire; then
turn the mixture into the milk and cook fifteen minutes. Bub the soup through
a strainer, return to the fire, season with salt and pepper. Beat the yolks of the
eggs well, add the cream to them and stir into the soup. Cook three minutes,
stirring constantly. If you have no cream, use milk, in which case add a table-
spoonful of butter at the same time. Pour over fried croutons in a soup tureen.

This is a refreshiug dish when one is fatigued.

WINTER VEGETABLE SOUP.

Scrape and sUce three turnips and. three carrots, and peel three onions, and
fry all with a little butter until a light yellow; add a bunch of celery and three
or four leeks cut in pieces; stir and fry all the ingredients for six minutes^

SOUFS WITHOUT MEAT. 35

when fried, add one clove of garlic, two stalks of parsley, two cloves, salt, pep-
per and a little grated nutmeg; cover with three quarts of water and simmer
for three hours, taking oflE the scum carefully. Strain and use. Croutons,
vermicelli, Italian pastes, or rice may be added.

VERMICELLI SOUP.

Swell quarter of a pound of vermicelli in a quart of warm water, then add it to
a good beef, veal, lamb, or chicken soup or broth, with quarter of a pound of
sweet butter; let the soup boil for fifteen minutes after it is added.

SWISS WHITE SOUP.

A sufficient quantity of broth for six people; boil it; beat up three eggs well,
two spoonfuls of flour, one cup milk; pour these gradually through a sieve into
the boiling; soup salt and pepper.

SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP.

Half pint green peas, two shredded lettuces, one onion, a small bunch of
parsley, two ounces butter, the yolks of three eggs, one pint of water, one and a
half quarts of soup stock. Put in a stewpan the lettuce, onion, parsley and but-
ter, with one pint of water, and let them simmer till tender. Season with
salt and pepper. When done strain off the vegetables, and put two-thiids of
the Uquor with the stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third,
toss it over the fire, and at the moment of serving add this with the vegetables
to the strained-off soup.

CELERY SOUP.

Celery soup may be made with white stock. Cut down the white of half a
dozen heads of celery into little pieces and boil it in four pints of white stock,
with a quarter of a pound of lean ham and two ounces of butter. Simmer gently
for a full hour, then strain through a sieve, return the liquor to the pan, and
stir in a few spoonfuls of cream with great care. Serve with toasted bread and,
if hked, thicken with a little flour. Season to taste.

IRISH POTATO SOUP.

Peel and boil eight medium-sized potatoes with a large onion, sliced, some
herbs, salt and pepper; press all through a colander; then thin it with rich milk
and add a lump of butter, more seasoning, if necessary; let it heat well and
serve hot.

36 SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT.

PEA SOUP.

Put a quart of dried peas into five quarts of water; boil for four hours; then
add three or four large onions, two heads of celery, a carrot, two turnips, all cut
up rather fine. Season with pepper and salt. Boil two hours longer, and if the
soup becomes too thick add more water. Strain through a colander and stir in
a tablespoonful of cold butter. Serve hot, with small pieces of toasted bread
placed in the bottom of the tureen.

NOODLES FOR SOUP.

Beat up one egg light, add a pinch of salt, and flour enough to make a very
stiff dough; roll out very thin, like thin pie crust, dredge with flour to keep from
sticking. Let it remain on the bread board to dry for an hour or more; then
roll it up intiO a tight scroll, like a sheet of music. Begin at the end and slice it
into sUps as thin as straws. After all are cut, mix them lightly together, and
to prevent them sticking, keep them floured a little until you are ready to drop
them into your soup, which should be done shortly before dinner, for if boiled
too long they will go to pieces.

FORCE MEAT BALLS FOR SOUP.

One cupful of cooked veal or fowl meat, minced; mix with this a handful of
fine bread-crumbs, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth together
with a tablespoon of milk; season with pepper and salt; add a half teaspoon of
flour, and bind all together with two beaten eggs; the hands to be well floured,
and the mixture to be made into Uttle balls the size of a nutmeg, drop into the
soup about twenty minutes before serving.

EGG BALLS FOR SOUP.

Take the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs and half a tablespoonful of wheat
flour, rub them smooth with the yolks of two raw eggs and a teaspoonful of
salt; mix all well together; make it in balls, and drop them into the boiling soup
a few minutes before taking it up.

Used in green turtle soup.

EGG DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP.

To half a pint of milk put two well-beaten eggs, and as much wheat flour as
will make a smooth, rather thick batter free from lumps; drop this batter, a
tablespoonful at a time, into boiling soup.

SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 37

Another mode. — One cupful of sour cream and one cupful of sour milk, three
«ggs, well beaten, whites and yolks separately; one teaspoonful of salt, one level
i;easpoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoonful of water, and enough flour added to
make a very stiff batter. To be dropped by spoonf ids into the broth and boiled
twenty minutes, or imtil no raw dough shows on the outside.

SUET DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP.

Three cups Of sifted flour in which three teaspoonf uls of baking powder have
been sifted; one cup of finely chopped suet, well rubbed into the flour, with a
teaspoonful of salt. Wet all with sweet milk to make a dough as stiflf as bis-
cuit. Make into small balls as large as peaches, well floured. Drop into the
soup three-quarters of an hour before being served. This requires steady boil-
ing, being closely covered, and the cover not t'> be removed until taken up to serve.
A very good form of pot-pie.

SOYER'S RECIPE FOR FORCE MEATS.

Take IJ lbs. of lean veal from the fiUet, and cut it in long thin shc^s; scrape
with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains; put it in a mortar, pound it 10
minutes, or imtil in a pur6e; pass it through a wire sieve (use the remainder in
stock); then take 1 lb. of good fresh beef suet, which skin, shred, and chop
Tery fine; put it in a mortar and pound it; then add 6 oz. of panada (that is,
bread soaked in milk, and boiled till nearly dry) with the suet; pound them well
together, and add the veal; season with 1 teaspoonful of salt, i teaspoonful of
pepper, i that of nutmeg; work all well together; then add 4 eggs by degrees,
continually poimding the contents of the mortar. When weU mixed, take a
small piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water; and if it is delicate,
j&rm, and of a good flavor, it is ready for use.

CROUTONS FOR SOUP.

In a frying pan have the depth of an inch of boiling fat; also have prepared
shces of stale bread, cut up into Uttle half -inch squares; drop into the frying
pan enough of these bits of bread to cover the surface of the fat. When
browned, remove with a skimmer and drain; add to the hot soup and serve.

Some prefer them prepared in this manner:

Take very thin sUces of bread, butter them well; cut them up into Uttle
squares three fomljhs of an inch thick, place them in a baking pan, buttered
side up, and brown in a quick oven.

38 SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT.

FISH STOCK.

Place a saucepan over the fire with a good sized piece of sweet butter, and a
sliced onion; put into that some sliced tomatoes, then add as many different
kinds of small fish as you can get — oysters, clams, smelts, pawns, crabs, shrimps,
and all kinds of pan-fish; cook all together, until the onions are well browned;
then add a bimch of sweet herbs, salt and pepper, and sufiicient water to make
the required amount of stock. After this has cooked for half an hour pound it
with a wooden pestle, then strain and cook again until it jellies.

FISH SOUP.

Select a large, fine fish, clean it thoroughly, put it over the fire with a suffi-
cient quantity of water, allowing for each pound of fish one quart of water;
add an onion cut fine, and a bunch of sweet herbs, ^^en the fish is cooked,
and is quite tasteless, strain all through a colander, retiun to the fire, add some
butter, salt and pepper to taste. A small tablespoonful of Worcestei'shire sauce
may be added if liked. Served with small squares of fried bread and thin
slices of lemon.

LOBSTER SOUP, OR BISQUE.

Have ready a good broth made of three pounds of veal boiled slowly in as
much wat^r as will cover it, till the meat is reduced to shreds. It must then be
well strained.

Having boiled one fine middle-sized lobster, extract all the meat from the
body and claws. Bruise part of the coral in a mortar, and also an equal quan-
tity of the meat. Mix them well together. Add mace, cayenne, salt and
pepper, and make them up into force-meat balls, binding the mixtvire with the
yolk of an egg slightly beaten.

Take three quarts of the veal broth, and put into it the meat of the lobster
cut into mouthfuls. Boil it together about twenty minutes. Then thicken it
with the remaining coral (which you must first rub through a sieve), and add
the force meat baUs and a little butter rolled in flour. Simmer it gently for ten
minutes but do not let it come to a boil, as that will injure the color. Serve with
small dice of bread fried brown in butter.

OYSTER SOUR No. i.

Two quarts of oysters, one quart of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one
teacupful of hot water; pepper, salt.

SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 39

Strain all the liquor from the oysters; add the water, and heat. When near
the boil, add the seasoning, then the oysters. Cook about five minutes from
the time they begin to simmer, until they ** ruffle." Stir in the butter, cook one
minute, and pour into the tureen. Stir in the boiling milk, and send to table.
Some prefer all water in place of milk.

OYSTER SOUP. No. 2.

Scald one gallon of oysters in their own liquor. Add one quart of rich milk
to the liquor, and when it comes to a boil, skim out the oysters and set aside.
Add the yolks of four eggs, two good tablespoonfuls of butter, and one of flour,
all mixed well together, but in this order — first, the milk, then, after beating
the eggs, add a little of the hot Uquor to them gi-adually, and stir them rapidly
into the soup. Lastly, add the butter and whatever seasoning you fancy besides
plain pepper and salt, which must both be put in to taste with caution. Celery salt
most persons like extremely; others would prefer a little marjoram and thyme;
others, again, mace and a bit of onion. Use your own discretion in this regard.

CLAM SOUP. (French Style.)

Mince two dozen hard-shell clams very fine. Fry half a minced onion in an
ounce of butter; add to it a pint of hot water, a pinch of mace, four cloves, one
allspice and six whole pepper corns. Boil fifteen minutes and strain into a
sauce-pan; add the chopped clams and a pint of clam- juice or hot water; simmer
slowly two hours; strain and rub the pulp through a sieve into the liquid.
Eetum it to the sauce-pan and keep it lukewarm. Boil three half pints of milk
in a sauce-pan (previously wet with cold water, which prevents burning) and
whisk it into the soup. Dissolve a teaspoonf ul of flour in cold milk, add it to the
soup, taste for seasoning; heat it gently to near the boiling point; pour it into a
tureen previously heated with hot water, and serve with or without pieces of
fried bread — called croutons in kitchen French.

CLAM SOUP.

Twenty -five clams chopped fine. Put over the fire the liquor that was
drained from them, and a cup of water; add the chopped clams, and boil half
an hour; then season to taste with pepper and salt and a piece of butter as large
as an egg; boil up again and add one quart of milk boiling hot, stir in a table-
spoon of flour made to a cream with a little cold milk, or two crackers rolled
fine. Some like a little mace and lemon juice in the seasoning.

The usual custom among professional cooks is to entirely immerse the article
to be cooked in boiling fat, but from inconvenience most households use the
half -frying method of frying in a small amoimt of fat in a frying-pan. For the
first method a shallow iron f rying-kettle, large at the top and small at the bottom,
is best to use. The fat should half fill the kettle, or an amoimt sufficient to float
whatever is to be fried; the heat of the fat should get to such a degree that,
when a piece of bread or a teaspoonful of the batter is dropped in it, it wiU
become brown almost instantly, but should not be so hot as to bum the fat.
Some cooks say that the fat should be smoking, but my experience is, that is a
mistake, as that soon ruins the fat. As soon as it begins to smoke it should be
removed a little to one side, and still be kept at the boiling point. K fritters,
crullers, croquettes, etc., are dropped into fat that is too hot, it crusts over the
outside before the inside has fully risen, making a heavy hard article, and also
ruining the fat, giving it a burnt flavor.

Many French cooks prefer beef fat or suet to lard for frying purposes, con-
sidering it more wholesome and digestible, does not impart as much flavor, or
adhere or soak into the article cooked as pork fat.

In families of any size, where there is much cooking required, there axe
enough drippings and fat remnants from roasts of beef, skimmings from the
soup-kettle, with the addition of occasionally a pound of suet from the market,
to amply supply the need. All such remnants and skimmings should be clarified
about twice a week, by boiling them all together in water. When the fat is all
melted, it should be strained with the water and set aside to cool. After the fat
on the top has hardened, lift the cake from the water on which it lies, scrape oflf
all the dark particles from the bottom, then melt over again the fat; while hot
strain into a small clean stone jar or bright tin pail, and then it is ready for use.
Always after frying anything, the fat should stand until it settles and has cooled
somewhat; then turn off carefully so as to leave it dear from the sediment that
settles at the bottom.

FISH. 41

Refined cotton-seed oil is now being adopted by most professional cooks in
hotels, restaurants, and many private households for culinary purposes, and will
doubtless in future supersede animal fats, especially for frying, it being quite as
delicate a medium as frying with oUve oil. It is now sold by leading grocers,
put up in packages of two and four quarts.

The second mode of frying, using a frying-pan with a small quantity of fat-
or grease, to be done properly, should in the first place have the frying-pan hot
over the fire, and the fat in it actually boiling before the article to be cooked is
placed in it, the intense heat quickly searing up the pores of the article and
forming a brown crust on the lower side, then turning over and browning the
other the same way.

Still, there is another mode of frying; the process is somewhat similar to
broihng, the hot frying-pan or spider replacing the hot fire. To do this cor-
rectly, a thick bottom frying-pan should be used. Place it over the fire, and
when it is so hot that it wiU siss, oil over the bottom of the pan with a piece of
suet, that is if the meat is all lean; if not, it is not necessary to grease the
bottom of the pan. Lay in the meat quite flat, and brown it quickly, first on one
side then on the other; when sufficiently cooked, dish on a hot platter and season
the same as broiled meats.

jfisb.

In selecting fish, choose those only in which the eye is fuU and prominent,
the flesh thick and firm, the scales bright and fins stiff. They should be thor-
oughly cleaned before cooking.

The usual modes of cooking fish are boiled, baked, broiled, fried and occa-
sionally stewed. Steaming fish is much superior to boiling, but the ordinary
conveniences in private houses do not admit of the possibility of enjoying this
deUcate way of cooking it. Large fish are generally boiled, medium-sized ones
baked or boiled, the smaller kinds fried or broiled. Very large fish, such as cod,
halibut, etc., are cut in steaks or slices for frying or broiling. The heads of some
fish, as the cod, halibut, etc., are considered tidbits by many. Small fish, or
pan fish, as they are usually called, are served without the heads, with the
exception of brook-trouts and smelts; these are usually cooked whole, with the
head on. Bake fish slowly, basting often with butter and water. Salmon is
considered the most nutritious of all fish. When boiUng fish, by adding a little
vinegar and salt to the water, it seasons and prevents the nutriment from being
drawn out; the vinegar acting on the water hardens the water.

42 FISH.

Fill the fish with a nicely prepared stuffing of rolled cracker or stale bread
crumbs, seasoned with butter, pepper, salt, sage, and any other aromatic herbs
fancied; sew up; wrap in a well-floured cloth, tied closely with twine, and boil
or steam. The garnishes for boiled fish are: For turbot, fried smelts; for other
boiled fish, parsley, sUced beets, lemon or shced boiled egg. Do not use the
knives, spoons^ etc., that are used in cooking fish, for other food, or they will
be apt to impart a fishy fiavor.

Fish to be boiled should be put into cold water arid set on the fire to cook
very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless
the fish are small, they should never be put into warm water; nor should water,
either hot or cold, be poured on to the fish, as it is liable to break the skin: if it
should be necessary to add a little water while the fish is cooking, it ought to be
poured in gently at the side of the vessel.

Fish to be broiled should he, after they are dressed, for two or three homig,
VTith their inside well sprinkled with salt and pepper.

Salt fish should be soaked in water before boiling, according to the time it
has been in salt. When it is hard and dry, it will require thirty-six hoxu?s soak-
ing before it is dressed, and the water must be changed three or four times.
When fish is not very salt, twenty-four hours, or even one night, will suffice.

When frying fish the fire must be hot enough to bring the fat to such a
degree of heat as to sear the surface and make it impervious to the fat, and at
the same time seal up the rich juices. As soon as the fish is browned by this
sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place on the stove,
that the process may be finished more slowly.

Fat in which fish has been fried is just as good to use again for the same
purpose, but it should be kept by itself and not be put to any other use.

TO FRY FISH.

Most of the smaller fish (generally termed pan-fish) are usually fried. Clean
well, cut off the head, and, if quite large, cut out the backbone, and shoe the
body crosswise into five or six pieces; season with salt and pepper. Dip in
Indian meal or wheat flour, or in beaten egg, and roll in bread or fine cracker
crumbs — trout and perch should not be dipped in meal; put into a thick bot-
tomed iron frying-pan, the flesh side down, with hot lard or drippings; fry
slowly, turning when lightly browned. The following method may be deemed
preferable: Dredge the pieces with flour; brush them over with beaten egg; roll
in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard or drippings sufficient to cover, the same

FISH. 43

as frying crullers If the fat is very hot, the fish will fry without absorbing it,
and it will be palatably cooked. When browned on one side, turn it over in the
fat and brown the other, draining when done. This is a particularly good way
to fry slices of large fish. Serve with tomato sauce; garnish with shces of lemon.

PAN FISH.

Place them in a thick bottom frying-pan with heads all one way. Fill the
spaces with smaller fish. When they are fried quite brown and ready to turn,
put a dinner plate over them, drain off the fat; then invert the pan, and they
will be left unbroken on the plate. Put the lard back into the pan, and when
Tiot sUp back the fish. When the other side is brown, drain, turn on a plate as
before, and sUp them on a warm platter, to be sent to the table. Leaving the
heads on and the fish a crispy-browTi, in perfect shape, improves the appearance
if not the flavor. Garnish with slices of lemon.

— Hotel Lafayettey Philadelphia,

BAKED PICKEREL.

Carefully clean and wipe the fish, and lay in a dripping-pan with enough hot
water to prevent scorching. A perforated sheet of tin, fitting loosely, or several
muffin rings may be used to keep it off the bottom. Lay it in a circle on its
belly, head and tail touching, and tied, or as directed in note on fish; bake
slowly, basting often vrith butter and water. When done, have ready a cup of
sweet cream or rich milk to which a few spoons of hot water has been added;
stir in two large spoons of melted butter and a little chopped parsley; heat all
by setting the cup in boiling water; add the gravy from the dripping-pan, and
let it boil up once; place the fish in a hot dish, and pour over it the sauce. Or
an egg sauce may be made with drawn butter; stir in the yolk of an egg quickly,
and then a teaspoon of chopped parsley. It can be stuffed or not, just as you
please.

BOILED SALMON.

The middle slice of salmon is the best. Sew up neatly in a mosquito-net
bag, and boil a quarter of an hour to the pound in hot salted water. When done,
tinwrap with care, and lay upon a hot dish, taking care not to break it. Have
ready a large cupful of drawn butter, very rich, in which has been stirred a
tablespoonful of minced parsley and the juice of a lemon. Pour half upon the
salmon, and serve the rest in a boat. Garnish with parsley and sliced eggs.

44 FISH.

BROILED SALMON.

Cut dices from an inch to an inch and a half thick, dry them in a cloth, season:
with salt and pepper, dredge them in sifted flour, and broil on a gridiron rubbed
with suet.

Another wode.— Cut the slices one inch thick, and season them with pepper
and salt; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, envelope
them in it with their ends twisted; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with
anchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a few chopped
herbs and a little spice.

FRESH SALMON FRIED.

Cut the slices three-quarters of an inch thick, dredge them with flour, or dip .
them in egg and crumbs,— fry a light brown. This mode answers for all fish,
cut into steaks. Season well with salt and pepper.

SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE.

Two slices of salmon, one-quarter pound butter, one-half teaspoonful of
chopped parsley, one shalot; salt and pepper to taste.

Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter over it and
add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning into the fish; place it .
in the oven and baste it frequently; when done, take it out and diuin for a
minute or two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. Salmon
dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very delicious.

BROILED SALT SALMON OR OTHER SALT FISH.

Soak salmon in tepid or cold water twenty-four hours, changing water sev-
eral times, or let stand imder faucet of running water. If in a hurry or desiring
a vefy salt relish, it may do to soak a short time, having water warm, and
changing, parboiling slightly. At the hour wanted, broil sharply. Season to .
suit taste« covering with butter. . This recipe will answer for all kinds of salt fish.

PICKLED SALMON.

Take a fine, fresh salmon, and having cleaned it, cut it into large pieces, and
boil it in salted water as if for eating. Then drain it, vsrrap it in a dry cloth, and
set it in a cold place till next day. Then make the pickle, which must be in.

FISH. 45

proportion to the quantity of fish. To one quart of the water in which the
sahnon was boiled, allow two quarts of the best vinegar, one oimce of whole
black pepper, one nutm^ grated and a dozen blades of mace. Boil all these
together in a kettle closely covered to prevent the flavor from evaporating.
When the vinegar thus prepai'ed is quite cold, pour it over the sahnoii, and put
on the top a tablespoonful of sweet oil, which will make it keep the longer.

Cover it closely, put it in a dry, cool place, and it will be good for many
months. This is the nicest way of preserving salmon, and is approved by all
who have tried it.

SMOKED SALMON.

Smoked salmon to be broiled should be put upon the gridiron first, with the
flesh side to the fire.

Smoked salmon is very nice when shaved like smoked beef, and served with
coffee or tea.

FRICASSEE SALMON.

This way of cooking fresh salmon is a pleasant change from the ordinary
modes of cooking it: Cut one and one-half pounds of salmon into pieces one
inch square; put the pieces in a stewpan with half a cupful of water, a httle
salt, a little white pepper, one clove, one blade of mace, three pieces of sugar,
one shalot and a heaping teaspoonf ul of mustard mixed smoothly with half £L
teacupful of vinegar. Let this boil up once and add six tomatoes peeled and
cut into tiny pieces, a few sprigs of parsley finely minced, and one wineglassful
of sherry. Let all simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Serve very
hot, and garnish with dry toast cut in triangular pieces. This dish is good, very
cold, for luncheon or breakfast.

SALMON PATTIES.

Cut cold cooked salmon into dice. Heat about a pint of the dice in half a
pint of cream. Season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt. Fill the shells
and serve. Cold cooked fish of any kind may be made into patties in this way.
Use any fish sauce you choose — all are equally good.

FISH AND OYSTER PIE.

Any remains of cold fish, such as cod or haddock, 2 dozen oysters^ pepper and
salt to taste, bread-crumbs sufiicient for the quantity of fish; i teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley.

\ ■

46 J^/SIf.

Clear the fish from the bones, and put a layer of it in a pie-dish, which
sprinkle with pe])per and salt; then a layer of bread-crumbs, oysters, nutmeg,
and chopped parsley. Repeat this till the dish is quite full. Tou may form a
covering either of bread crumbs, which should be browned, or p\iff -paste, which
should be cut off into long strips, and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line
of the paste first laid round the edge. Before putting on the top, pour in some
made melted butter, or a httle thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, and bake.

T£ine.—I£ of cooked fish, i hour; if made of fresh fish and puff-paste, i hour.

STEAMED FISH.

Secure the taU of the fish in its mouth, the body in a circle; pom: over it
half a pint of vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt; let it stand an hour in a
cool place; pour off the vinegar, and put it in a steamer over boiling water, and
steam twenty minutes, or longer for large fish. When the meat easily separates
from the bone it is done. Drain wellj^ and serve on a very clean white napkin,
neatly folded and placed on the platter; decorate the napkin around the fish with
sprigs of curled parsley, or with fanciful beet cuttings, or alternately with
both.

TO BROIL A SHAD.

SpUt and wash the shad, and afterwards dry it in a cloth. Season it with
salt and pepper. Have ready a bed of clear, bright coals. Grease your gridiron
well, and as soon as it is hot, lay the shad upon it, the fiesh side down; cover
vdth a dripping-pan and broil it for about a quarter of an hour, or more, accord-
ing to the thickness. Butter it well, and send it to the table. Covering it while
broiling gives it a more delicious flavor.

BAKED SHAD.

Many people are of the opinion that the very best method of cooking a shad
is to bake it. Stuff it with bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, butter and parsley, and
mix this up with the beaten yolk of egg; fill the fish with it, and sew it up or
fasten a string around it. Pour over it a little water and some butter, and bake
as you would a fowl. A shad will require from an hour to an hoiu* and a
quarter to bake. Garnish with shoes of lemon, water cresses, etc.

Dressing for Baked Shad. — Boil'up the gravy in which the shad was baked,
put in a large tablespoonf ul of catsup, a tablespoonful of brown fiour which
has been wet with cold water, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry or Ma-
deira wine. Serve in a sauce boat.

FISH. 47

TO COOK A SHAD ROE.

Drop into boiling water, and cook gently for twenty minutes; then take from
the fire, and drain. Butter a tin plate, and lay the drained roe upon it. Dredge
well with salt and pepper, and spread soft butter over it; then dredge thickly
with flour. Cook in the oven for half an hour, basting frequently with salt,
pepper, flour, butter and water.

TO COOK SHAD ROE. (Another Way.)

First partly boil them in a small covered pan, take out and season them with
salt, a little pepper, dredge with flour and fry as any fish.

EELS A LA TART ARE.

Two pounds of eels, one carrot, one onion, a little flour, one glass of sherry;
salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; bread-crumbs; one egg, two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar.

Rub the butter on the bottom of the stew-pan; cut up the carrot and onion,
and stir them over the fire for 5 minutes; dredge in a little flour; add the wine
and seasoning, and boil for \ an hour. Skin and wash the eels, cut them into
pieces, put them to the other ingi-edients, and simmer till tender. When they
are done, take them out, let them get cold, cover them with egg and bread-
cinimbs, and fry them of a nice brown. ^ Put them on a dish, pour '^ sauce
piquante'' over, and serve them hot.

Time. — 1^ hoims.

FRIED EELS.

After cleaning the eels well, cut them in pieces two inches long; wash them
and wipe them dry; roll them in wheat flour or rolled cracker, and fry as di-
rected for other fish, in hot lard or beef dripping, salted. They should be
browned all over and thoroughly done.

Eels are sometimes dipped in batter and then fried, or into egg and bread
crumbs. Serve with crisped parsley.

SHEEPSHEAD WITH DRAWN BUTTER.

Select a medium-sized fish, clean it thoroughly, and rub a Uttle salt over it;
wrap it in a doth and put it in a steamer; place this over a pot of fast-boiling
water and steam one hour; then lay it whole upon a hot side-dish, garnish with

48 FISH.

tufts of parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with drawn butter, prepared as
follows: Take two ounces of butter and roll it into smaJl balls, dredge these
with flour; put one-fourth of them in a sauce-pan, and as they begin to melt,
whisk them; add the remainder, one at a time, until thoroughly smooth; while
stirring, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a tablespoonf ul of chopped pars-
ley; pour into a hot sauce boat, and serve.

BAKED WHITE FISH.

Thoroughly clean the fish; cut oflf the head or not, as preferred; cut out the
backbone from the head to within two inches of the tail, and stuff with the fol-
lowing: Soak stale bread in water, squeeze dry; cut in pieces a large onion, fry
in butter, chop fine; add the bread, two otmces of butter, salt, pepper and a lit-
tle parsley or sage; heat through, and when taken off the fire, add the yolks of
two well-beaten eggs; stuff the fish rather full, sew up with fine twine, and
wrs^p with several coils of white tape. Rub the fish over slightly with butter;
just cover the bottom of a baking pan with hot water, and place the fish in it,
standing back upward, and bent in the form of an S. Serve with the following
dressing: Eeduce the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste with two
tablespoonfuls good salad oil; stir in half a teaspoon FiUglish mustard, and add
pepper and vinegar to taste.

HALIBUT BOILED.

The cut next to the tail-piece is the best to boil. Rub a little salt over it,
soak it for fifteen minutes in vinegar and cold water, then wash it and scrape
it until quite clean; tie it in a cloth, and boil slowly over a moderate fire, allow-
ing seven minutes boiling to each pound of fish; when it is half cooked, turn it
over in the pot; serve with drawn butter or egg sauce.

Boiled halibut minced with boiled potatoes, and a little butter and milk, makes
an excellent breakfast dish.

STEAMED HALIBUT.

Select a three-pound piece of white haUbut, cover it with a cloth and place it
in a steamer; set the steamer over a pot of fast-boihng water and steam two
hours; place it on a hot dish surrounded with a border of pai'sley, and serve with
egg-sauce.

FJ[SH. 49

FRIED HALIBUT. No. I.

Select choice, firm slices from this large and delicate-looking fish, and, after
•carefully washing and diying with a soft towel, with a sharp knife take off the
skin. Beat up two eggs, and roll out some brittle crackers upon the kneading
board iintil they are as fine as dust. Dip each sUce into the beaten egg, then
into the cracker crumbs, (after you have salted and peppered the fish), and place
them in a hot frying-pan half full of boiling lard, in which a httle butter has
been added to make the fish brown nicely; turn and brown both sides, remove
from the frying-pan and di*ain. Serve hot.

FRIED HALIBUT. No. 2.

First fry a few thin slices of salt pork until brown in an iron frying-pan;
then take it up on a hot platter, and keep it warm until the halibut is fried.
After washing and drying two pounds of shced halibut, sprinkle it with salt and
pepper, dredge it well with flour, put it into the hot pork-drippings and fry
brown on both sides; then serve the pork with the fish.

HaUbut broiled in shoes is a very good way of cooking it, broiled the same as
Spanish mackerel.

BAKED HALIBUT.

Take a nice piece of halibut weighing five or six pounds, and lay it in salt
vrater for two hours. Wipe it dry and score the outer skin. Set it in a drip-
ping-pan in a moderate hot oven, and bake an hour, basting often with butter
and water heated together in a sauce-pan or tin cup. When a fork will pene-
trate it easily, it is done. It should be a fine, brown color. Take the gravy in
the dripping-pan, add a Uttle boiUng water should there not be enough, stir in
a tablespoonful of walnut catsup, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, the
juice of a lemon, and thicken with brown flour, previously wet with cold water.
Boil up once and put in a sauce boat.

HALIBUT BROILED.

Broil the same as other fish, upon a buttered gridiron, over a clear fire, first
reasoning with salt and pepper, placed on a hot dish when done, buttered well
-and cover closely.

FRIED BROOK TROUT.

These deUcate fish are usually fried, and form a delightful breakfast or sup-
per dish. Clean, wash and dry the fish, spUt them to the tail, salt and pepper

50 FISH.

them, and flour them nicely. K you use lard instead of the fat of fried salt
pork, put in a piece of butter to prevent their sticking, and which causes them
to brown nicely. Let the fat be hot, fry quickly to a deUcate brown. Thej-
should be sufficiently browned on one side before turning on the other side.
They are nice served with sUces of fried pork, fried crisp. Lay them side by
side on a heated platter, garnish and send hot to the table. They are often
cooked and served with their heads on.

FRIED SMELTS.

Fried with their heads on the same as brook trout. Many think that the\^
make a much better appearance as a dish when cooked whole with the heads
on, and nicely garnished for the table.

BOILED WHITE FISH.

Taken from Mrs. A. W\ Ferry* s Cook Book, Mackinac^ 1824. The most deli-
cate mode of cooking white fish. Prepare the fish as for broiling, lajring it open ;
put it into a dripping-pan with the back down; nearly cover with water; to one
fish two tablespoonfuls of salt; cover tightly and simmer (not boil) one-half
horn*. Dress with gravy, a Uttle butter and pepper, and garnish with hard-
boiled eggs.

BAKED WHITE FISH. (Bordeaux Sauce.)

Clean and stuff the fish. Put it in a baking-pan and add a hberal quantity
of butter, previously rolled in flour, to the fish. Put in the pan half a pint of
claret, and bake for an hoiu* and a quarter. Bemove the fish and strain the
gravy; add to the latter a gill more of claret, a teaspoonful of brown flour
and a pinch of cayenne, and serve with the fish.

— Plankington House, Milwaukee^

BAKED SALMON TROUT.

This deliciously flavored game-fish is baked precisely as shad or white fish,,
but should be accompanied with cream gravy to make it perfect. It should be-
baked slowly, basting often with butter and water. When done, have ready in.
a sauce-pan a cup of cream, diluted with a few spoonfuls of hot water, for fear
it might clot in heating, in which have been stirred cautiously two tablespoon-
fuls of melted butter, a scant tablespoonful of flour, and a Uttle chopped parsley.
Heat this in a vessel set within another of boiling water, add the gravy from the

FISH. 5 r

drippiiig-pan, boil up once to thicken, and when the trout is laid on a suitable
hot dish, pour this sauce around it. GJamish with sprigs of parsley.

This same fish boiled, served with the same cream gravy, (with the exception
of the fish gravy,) is the proper way to cook it.

TO BAKE SMELTS.

Wash and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat
baking-dish; the pan should be buttered, also the fish; season with salt and pep-
per, and cover with bread or cracker-crumbs. Place a piece of butter over each.
Bake for fifteen or twenty minutes. Garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon.

BROILED SPANISH MACKEREL.

Spht the fish down the back, take out the back bone, wash it in cold water,,
dry it with a clean dry cloth, sprinkle it lightly with salt and lay it on a but-
tered gridiron, over a clear fire, with the flesh side downward, until it begins to
brown; then turn the other side. Have ready a mixture of two tablespoonfuls
of butter melted, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of salt, some pep-
per. Dish up the fish hot from the gridiron on a hot dish, tmn over the mix-
ture and serve it while hot.

Broiled Spanish mackerel is excellent with other fish sauces. Boiled Spanish
mackerel is also very fine with most of the fish sauces, more especially '' Matre
d'Hotel Sauce.''

BOILED SALT MACKEREL.

Wash and clean off all the brine and salt; put it to soak with the meat side>
down, in cold water over night; in the morning rinse it in one or two waters..
Wrap each up in a cloth and put it into a kettle with considerable water, which
should be cold; cook about thu-ty minutes. Take it carefully from the cloth,,
take out the back bones and pour ov^er a httle melted butter and cream; add a
light sprinkle of pepper. Or make a cream sauce hke the following:

Heat a smaU cup of milk to scalding. Stir into it a teaspoonful of com starch,
wet up with a little water. When this thickens, add two tablespoonfuls of butter,
pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, to taste. Beat an egg light, pour the sauce
gradually over it, put the mixture again over the fire, and stir one minute, not
more. Pour upon the fish, and serve it with some slices of lemon, or a few-
sprigs of parsley or water-cresses, on the dish as a garnish.

3^ FISH.

BAKED SALT MACKEREL.

When the mackerel have soalced over night, put them in a pan and pom* on
filing water enough to cover. Let them stand a couple of minutes, then drain
"them off, and put them in the pan with a few lumps of hutter; pour on a half
i;eacupful of sweet cream, or rich milk, and a little pepper; set in the oven and
let it bake a little until brown.

FRIED SALT MACKEREL.

Select as many salt mackerel as required; wash and cleanse them well, then
put them to soak all day in cold water, changing them every two hours; then
put them into fresh water just before retiring. In the morning drain off the
"water, wipe them dry, roll them in flour, and fry in a little butter on a hot thick-
lx>ttom frying-pan. Serve with a Httle melted butter poured over, and garnish
^with a httle parsley.

BOILED FRESH MACKEREL.

Fresh mackerel are cooked in water salted, and a httle vinegar added; with
this exception they can be served in the same way as the salt mackerel.
Broiled ones are very nice with the same cream sauce, or you can substitute egg
usance.

POTTED FRESH FISH.

After the fish has laid in salt water six hours, take it out, and to every six
pounds of fish take one-quarter cupful each of salt, black pepper and cinnamon,
*one eighth cupful of allspice, and one teaspoonful of cloves.

Cut the fish in pieces and put into a half gallon stone baking-jar, first a layer
of fish, then the spices, flour, and then spread a thin layer of butter on, and con-
ijinue so until the dish is full. Fill the jar with equal parts of vinegar and water,
•cover with tightly fitting hd, so that the steam cannot escape; bake five hours,
:remove from the oven, and when it is cold, it is to be cut in shoes and served,
"^his is a tea or liinch dish.

SCALLOPED CRABS.

Put the crabs into a kettle of boihng water, and throw in a handful of salt.
"Boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Take them from the water when
«don3 and pick out all the meat; be careful not to break the shell. To a pint of
imeat put a httle salt and pepper; taste, and if not enough add more, a httle at a

FISH. 53

time, till suited. Grate in a very little nutmeg, and add one spoonful of cracker or
bread-crumbs, two eggs well beaten, and two tablespoonfuls of butter (even full):
stir all well together; wash the shells clean, and fill each shell full of the mix-
ture; sprinkle crumbs over the top and moisten with the Uquor; set in the oven
till of a nice brown; a few minutes will do it. Send to the table hot, arranged
on large dishes. They are eaten at breakfast or supper.

FISH IN WHITE SAUCE.

Make up cold boiled halibut and set the plate into the steamer, that the fish
may heat without drying. Boil the bones and skin of the fish with a slice of
onion and a very small piece of red pepper; a bit of this the size of a kernel of
coffee will make the sauce quite as hot as most persons Uke it. Boil this stock
down to half a pint; thicken with one teaspoonful of butter and one teaspoonful
of flour, mixed together. Add one drop of extract of almond. Pour this sauce
over your haUbut and stick bits of parsley over it.

FRESH STURGEON STEAK MARINADE.

Take one sUce of sturgeon two inches thick; let it stand in hot water five
minutes; drain; put it in a bowl and add a gill of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of
melted butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of black pepper, and the
juice of half a lemon; let it stand six hours, turning it occasionally; drain and
dry on a napkin; dip it in egg; roll in bread-crumbs, and fry, or rather boil, in
very hot fat. Beat up the yolks of two raw eggs, add a teaspoonful of French
mustard, and, by degrees, half of the marinade, to make a smooth sauce, which
serve with the fish.

POTTED FISH.

Take out the backbone of the fish; for one weighing two pounds take a table-
spoonful of allspice and cloves mixed; these spices should be put into little bags
of not too thick muslin; put sufficient salt directly upon each fish; then roll in
a cloth, over which sprinkle a little cayenne pepper; put alternate layers of fish,
spice and sage in an earthern jar; cover with the best cider vinegar; cover the
jar closely with a plate, and over this put a covering of dough, rolled out to
twice the thickness of pie crust. Make the edges of paste, to adhere closely to
the sides of the jar, so as to make it air-tight. Put the jar into a pot of cold
water and let it boil from three to five hours, according to quantity. Ready
when cold.

54 ^J^SIT.

MAYONNAISE FISH.

Take a pound or so of cold boiled fish (halibut, rock, or cod), not chop, but
cut, into pieces an inch in length. Mix in a bowl a dressing as follows: The
yolk of four boiled eggs rubbed to a smooth paste with salad oil or butter; add
to these salt, pepper, mustard, two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, and, lastly,
six tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Beat the mixtin^ until hght, and just before
poiuing it over the fish, stir in lightly the frothed white of a raw egg. Serve
the fish in a glass dish, with half the dressing stirred in with it. Spread the
remainder over the top, and lay lettuce leaves (from the core of the head of let-
tuce) around the edges, to be eaten with it.

FISH CHOWDER. (Rhode Island.)

Fry five or six slices of fat pork crisp in the bottom of the pot you are to
make your chowder in; take them out and chop them into small pieces, put them
back into the bottom of the pot with their own gravy. (This is much better
than having the slices whole.)

Cut four pounds of fresh cod or sea-bass into pieces two inches square, and
lay enough of these on the pork to cover it. Follow with a layer of chopped
onions, a little parsley; summer savory and pepper, either black or cayenne.
Then a layer of split Boston, or butter, or whole cream crackers, which have
been soaked in warm water until moistened through, but not ready to break.
Above this put a layer of pork, and repeat the order given above — onions, sea-
soning, (not too much), crackers and pork, until your materials are exhausted.
Let the topmost layer be buttered crackers well soaked. Pour in enough cold
water to barely cover all. Cover the pot, stew gently for an hour, watching
that the water does not sink too low. Should it leave the upper layer exposed,
replenish cautiously from the boiling tea-kettle. When the chowder is thoroughly
done, take out with a perforated skimmer and put into a tinmen. Thicken the
gravy with a tablespoonful of flour and about the same quantity of butter; boil
up and pom: over the chowder. Serve sliced lemon, pickles and stewed toma-
toes with it, that the guests may add if they like.

CODFISH BALLS.

Take a pint bowl of codfish picked very fine, two pint bowls of whole raw
peeled potatoes, sliced thickly; put them together in plenty of cold water and
boil until the potatoes are thoroughly cooked; remove from the- fire, and drain
off all the water. Mash them with the potato masher, add a piece of butter the

FISH. 55

size of an egg, one well -beaten egg, and three spoonfuls of cream or rich milk.
Flour your hands and make into balls or cakes. Put an ounce each of butter
and lard into a frying pan; when hot, put in the balls and fry a nice brown. Do
not freshen the fish before boiUng with the potatoes. Many cooks fry them in a
quantity of lard similar to boiled doughnuts.

STEWED CODFISH. (Salt.)

Take a thick, white piece of salt codfish, lay it in cold water for a few min-
utes to soften it a Uttle, enough to render it more easily to be picked up. Shred
it in very small bits, put it over the fire in a stew-pan with cold water; let it
come to a boil, turn off this water carefully, and add a pint of milk to the fish,
or more according to quantity. Set it over the fire again and let it boil slowly
about three minutes, now add a good-sized piece of butter, a shake of pepper
and a thickening of a tablespoonful of flour in enough cold milk to make a cream.
Stew five minutes longer, and just before serving stir in two well-beaten eggs.
The eggs are an addition that could be dispensed with, however, as it is very
good without them. An excellent breakfast dish.

CODFISH A LA MODE.

Pick up a teacupful of salt codfish very fine, and freshen— the dessicated i.s
nice to use; two cups mashed potatoes, one pint cream or milk, two weU-beaten
eggs, half a cup butter, salt and pepper; mix; bake in an earthen baking dish
from twenty to twenty-five minutes; serve in the same dish, placed on a small
platter, covered with a fine napkin.

BOILED FRESH COD.

Sew up the piece of fish in thin cloth, fitted to shape; boil in salted water
(boiling from the first), allowing about fifteen minutes to the pound. Carefully
unwrap, and pour over it warm oyster sauce. A whole one boiled the same.

— Hotel Brighton.
SCALLOPED FISH.

Pick any cold fresh fish, or salt codfish, left from the dinner, into fine bits,
carefully removing aU the bones.

Take a pint of milk in a suitable dish, and place it in a sauce- pan of boiling
water; put into it a few shoes of onion, cut very fine, a sprig of parsley minced
fine, add a piece of butter as large as an egg, a pinch of salt, a sprinkle of white
pepper, then stir in two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, or flour, rubbed in a little
cold milk; let all boil up and remove from the fire. Take a dish you wish to

56 FJSH.

serve it in, butter the sides and bottom. Put first a layer of the minced fish,
then a layer of the cream, then sprinkle over that some cracker or bread-crumbs,
then a layer of fish again, and so on, until the dish is full; spread cracker or
bread-crumbs last on the top, to prevent the milk from scorching.

This is a very good way to use up cold fish, making a nice breakfast dish, or
a side-dish for dinner.

FISH FRITTERS.

Take a piece of salt codfish, pick it up very fine, put it into a sauce-pan, with
plenty of cold water; bring it to a boil, turn off the water, and add another of
cold water; let this boil with the fish about fifteen minutes, very slowly; strain
off this water, making the fish quite dry, and set aside to cool. In the meantime,
stir up a batter of a pint of milk, f oiu* eggs, a pinch of salt, one large teaspoon-
ful of baking powder in flour, enough to make thicker than batter cakes. Stir
in the fish and fry like any fritters. Very fine accompaniment to a good break-
fast.

BOILED SALT CODFISH. (New England Style).

Cut the fish into square pieces, cover with cold water, set on the back part of
the stove; when hot, pour off water and cover again with cold water; let it
stand about four hours and simmer, not boil ; put the fish on a platter, then
cover with a drawn-butter gravy, and serve. Many cooks prefer soaking the
fish over night.

BOILED CODFISH AND OYSTER SAUCE.

Lay the fish in cold salted water half an hour before it is time to cook it, then
roll it in a clean cloth dredged with flour; sew up the edges in such a manner
as to envelope the fish entirely, yet have but one thickness of cloth over any
part. Put the fish into boiling water, slightly salted; add a few whole cloves
and peppers and a bit of lemon peel; pull gently on the fins, and when they come
out easily the fish is done. Arrange neatly on a folded napkin, ganrish and
serve with oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every pound of fish and scald
(blanch) them in a half -pint of hot oyster liquor; take out the oysters and add to
the Hquor, ssdt, pepper, a bit of mace and an oxmce of butter; whip into it a gill
of milk containing half of a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer a moment; add
the oysters, and send to table in a sauce-boat. Egg sauce is good with this fish.

BAKED CODFISH.

K salt fish, soak, boil and pick the fish, the same as for fish-baUs. Add an
equal quantity of mashed potatoes, or cold, boiled, chopped potatoes, a large

SHELL-FISH. 5;-

piece of butter, and warm milk enough to make it quite soft. Put it into a but
tered dish, rub butter over the top, shake over a httle sifted flour, and bake about,
thirty minutes, and until a rich brown. Make a sauce of drawn butter, wifcfe
two hard-boiled eggs sliced, served in a gravy-boat.

CODFISH STEAK. (New England Style.)

Select a medium-sized fresh codfish, cut it in steaks cross- wise of the fish
about an inch and a half thick; sprinkle a httle salt over them, and let them
stand two hours. Cut into dice a poxmd of salt fat pork, fry out all the fat.
from them and remove the crisp bits of pork; put the codfish steaks in a pan of
com meal, dredge them with it, and when the pork fat is smoking hot, fry the
steaks in it to a dark-brown color on both sides. Squeeze over them a little^
lemon juice, add a dash of freshly ground pepper, and serve with hot, old-fash-
ioned, weU-buttered Johnny Cake.

SALMON CROQUETTES.

One pound of cooked salmon (about one and a half pints when chopped),
one cup of cream, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonfiil of flour, three
eggs, one pint of crumbs, pepper and salt; chop the salmon fijie, mix the flour
and butter together, let the cream come to a boil, and stir in the flour and butter,
salmon and seasoning; boil one minute; stir in one well-beaten egg, and remove
from the fire; when cold make into croquettes: dip in beaten egg, roll in crumbs
and fry. Canned salmon can be used.

STEWED WATER TURTLES, OR TERRAPINS.

Select the largest, thickest and fattest, the females being the best; they ^/ould
be alive when brought from market. Wash and put them aUve into boiling
water, add a httle salt, and boil them until thoroughly done, or from ten to fif-
teen minutes, after which take oflf the shell, extract the meat, and remove care-
fully the sand-bag and gall; also all the entrails; they are unfit to eat, and are
no longer used in cooking terrapins for the best tables. Cut the meat into
pieces, and put it into a stew-pan with its eggs, and sufficient fresh butter to
stew it well. Let it stew till quite hot throughout, keeping the pan carefully

58 SHELL-FISH.

covered, that none of the flavor may escape, but shake it over the fire whfle
stewing. In another pan make a sauce of beaten yolk of ^g, highly flavored
with Madeira or sherry, and powdered nutmeg and mace, a gill of currant jeUy,
a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste, enriched with a large lump of fresh
butter. Stir this sauce well over the fire, and when it has almost come to a boil,
take it off. Send the terrapins to the table hot in a covered dish, and the sauce
separately in a sauce-tureen, to be used by those who like it, and omitted by
those who prefer the genuine fliavor of the terrapins when simply stewed with
hutter. This is now the usual mode of dressing terrapins in Maryland, Virginia,
and many other parts of the South, and will be f oimd superior to any other. If
there are no eggs in the terrapin, "egg balls" may be substituted. (See recipe).

STEWED TERRAPIN, WITH CREAM.

Place in a sauce-pan, two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter and one of dry
flour; stir it over the fire until it bubbles; then gradually stir in a pint of cream,
a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, the same of
grated nutmeg, and a very small pinch of cayenne. Next, put in a pint of ter-
rapin meat and stir all imtil it is scalding hot. Move the sauce-pan to the back
part of the stove or range, where the contents will keep hot but not boil; then
stir in four well-beaten yolks of eggs; do not allow the terrapin to boil after add-
ing the eggs, but pour it immediately into a tureen containing a gill of good
Madeira and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Serve hot.

STEWED TERRAPIN.

Plunge the terrapins alive into boiling water, and let them remain rmtil the
sides and lower shell begin to crack — this will take less than an horn*; then re-
move them and let them get cold; take off the shell and outer skin, being care-
ful to save all the blood possible in opening them. If there are eggs in them put
them aside in a dish; take all the inside out, and be very careful not to break
the gall, which must be immediately removed or it will make the rest bitter.
It hes within the liver. Then cut up the Uver and aU the rest of the terrapin
into small pieces, adding the blood and juice that have flowed out in cutting up;
add half a pint of water; sprinkle a Uttle flour over them as you place them in
the stew-pan; let them stew slowly ten minutes, adding salt, black and cayenne
pepper, and a very small blade of mace; then add a gill of the best brandy and
half a pint of the very best sherry wine ; let it simmer over a slow fire very
gently. About ten minutes or so, before you are ready to dish them, add half a
pint of rich cream, and half a pound of sweet butter, with fiour, to prevent boil-

SHELI^FISH. 59

ing; two or three minutes before taMng them ofif the fire, peel the eggs carefully

and throw them in whole. If there should be no eggs use the yolk of hens' eggs,

hard boiled. This receipt is for four terrapins.

— Sennerfs Hotel, Baltimore.

BOILED LOBSTER.

Put a handful of salt into a large kettle or pot of boiling water. When the
water boils very hard, put in the lobster, having first brushed it, and tied the
claws together with a bit of twine. Keep it boiling from 20 minutes to half an hour
in proportion to its size. If boiled too long the meat will be hard and stringy.
When it is done take it out, lay it on its claws to drain, and then wipe it dry.

It is scarcely necessary to mention that the head of a lobster, and what are
called the lady-fingers, are not to be eaten.

Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being coarse and tough. The
male is best for boiling; the flesh is firmer, and the shell a brighter red; it may
readily be distinguished from the female; the tail is narrower, and the two up-
I)er-most fins within the tail are stiff and hard. Those of the hen lobster are
not so, and the tail is broader.

Hen lobsters are preferred for sauce or salad, on account of their coral. The
head and small claws are never used.

They should be alive and freshly caught when put into the boiling kettle.
After being cooked and cooled, split open the body and tail, and crack the claws,
to extract the meat. The sand pouch found near the throat should be removed.
Care should be exercised that none of the feathery, tough, gill-like particles
found under the body shell get mixed with the meat, as they are indigestible,
and have caused much trouble. They are supposed to be the cause of so-called
poisoning from eating lobster.

Serve on a platter. Lettuce, and other concomitants of a salad, should also be
placed on the table or platter.

SCALLOPED LOBSTER.

Butter a deep dish, and cover the bottom with fine bread-crumbs; put on this
a layer of chopped lobster, with pepper and salt; so on alternately until the dish is
filled, having crumbs on top. Put on bits of butter, moisten with milk, and
bake about twenty minutes.

DEVILED LOBSTER.

Take out all the meat from a boiled lobster, reserving the coral; season highly
with mustard, cayenne, salt and some kind of talle sauce; stew imtil well mixed,

6o SHELL-FISH.

and put it in a covered sauce-pan^ with just enough hot water to keep from
burning; rub the coral smooth, moistening with vinegar until it is thin enough
to pour easily, then stir it into the sauce-pan. The dressing should be prepared
before the meat is put on the fire, and which ought to boil but once before the
coral is put in; stir in a heaping teaspoonful of butter, and when it boils again it
is done, and should be taken up at once, as too much cooking toughens the
meat.

LOBSTER CROQUETTES.

Take any of the lobster remaining from table, and pound it until the dark,
light meat and coral are well mixed; put with it not quite as much fine bread-
cmmbs; season with pepper, salt and a very httle cayenne pepper; add a Uttle
melted butter, about two tablespoonfuls if the bread is rather dry; form into
^g-shaped or roimd balls; roll them in egg, then in fine crumbs, and fry in boil*
inglard.

LOBSTER PATTIES.

Cut some boiled lobster in small pieces; then take the small daws and the
£fpawn, put them in a suitable dish, and jam them to a paste with a potato
masher. Now add to them a ladleful of gravy or both, with a few bread-crumbs;
set it over the fire and boil; strain it through a strainer, or sieve, to the thickness
of a cream, and put half of it to your lobsters, and save the other half to sauce
them with after they are baked. Put to the lobster the bigness of an egg of
butter, a httle i)epper and salt; squeeze in a lemon, and warm these over the fire
enough to melt the butter, set it to cool, and sheet your patty-pan or a plate or
dish with good puff paste; then put in your lobster, and cover it with a paste;
bake it within three-quarters of an hour before you want it; when it is baked,
cut up your cover, and warm up the other half of your sauce above mentioned,
with a httle butter, to the thickness of cream, and pour it over your patty, with
a httle squeezed lemon; cut your cover in two, and lay it on the top, two inches
distant, so that what is under may be seen. You may bake crawfish, shrimps
or prawns the same way; and they are all proper for plates or httle dishes for a
second course.

TO POT LOBSTERS.

Take from a hen lobster the spawn, coral, flesh, and pickings of the head and
daws; pound weU and season with cayenne, white pepper and mace, according
to taste. Mix it to a firm past^ with good melted butter. Pound and season

SHELL-FISH. 6 1

the flesh from the tail and put it into a pot, and then fill with the other paste.
Ck)yer the top of each pot with clarified butter, and keep it in a cool place.
Time, three-quarters of an hour to one hour to boil the lobster.

BAKED CRABS.

Mix with the contents of a can of crabs, bread-crumbs or pounded crackers.
Pepper and salt the whole to taste; mince some cold ham; have the baking-pan
well buttered, place therein first a layer of the crab meat, prepared as above,
then a layer of the minced ham, and so on, alternating until the pan is filled.
Cover the top with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and bake.

DEVILED CRABS.

Half a dozen fresh crabs, boiled and minced, two ounces of butter, one small
teaspoonful of mustard powder; cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Put the
meat into a bowl and mix carefully with it an equal quantity of fine bread-
crumbs. Work the butter to a light cream, mix the mustard well with it, then
stir in very carefully, a handful at a time, the mixed crabs, a tablespoonful of
cream, and crumbs. Season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt: fill the crab
shells with the mixture, sprinkle bread-crumbs over the tops, put three small
pieces of butter upon the top of each, and brown them quickly in a hot oven.
They will puff in baking and will be found very nice. Half the quantity can be
made. A crab-shell will hold the meat of two crabs.

CRAB CROQUETTES.

Pick the meat of boiled crabs and chop it fine. Season to taste with pepper,
salt and melted butter. Moisten it well with rich milk or cream, then stiflfen it
slightly with bread or cracker-crumbs. Add two or three well-beaten eggs to
bind the mixture. Form the croquettes, egg and bread-crumb them and fry
them deUcately in boiling lard. It is better to use a wire frying-basket for cro-
quettes of all kinds.

TO MAKE A CRAB PIE.

Procure the crabs alive, and put them in boiling water, along with some salt.
Boil them for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to the size.
When cold, pick the meat from the claws and body. Chop aU together, and
mix it with crumbs of bread, pepper and salt, and a little butter. Put all this
into the shell, and brown in a hot oven. A crab-shell will hold the meat of two
crabs.

62 SHELL-FISH.

CRABS. (SoftSheU.)

Crabs may be boiled as lobsters. They make a fine dish when stewed. Take
out the meat from the shell, put it into a sauce-pan with butter, pepper, salt, a
pinch of mace, and a very little water; dredge with flour, and let simmer five
minutes over a slow fire. Serve hot; garnish the dish with the claws laid
around it.

The usual way of cooking them is frying them in plenty of butter and lard
mixed; prepare them the same as frying fish. The spongy substance from the
sides should be taken off, also the sand bag. Fry a nice brown, and garnish
with parsley.

OYSTERS.

Oysters must be fresh and fat to be good. They are in season from Septem-
ber to May.

The small ones, such as are sold by the quart, are good for pies, fritters, or
stews; the largest of this sort are nice for frying or pickling for family use.

FRIED OYSTERS.

Take large oysters from their own liquor into a thickly folded napkin to dry
them; then make hot an ounce each of butter and lard, in a thick bottom fry-
ing-pan. Season the oysters with pepper and salt, then dip each one into egg
and cracker-crumbs rolled fine, until it will take up no more. Place them in the
hot grease and fry them a delicate brown, turning them on both sides by sliding

% broad-bladed knife imder them. Serve them crisp and hot.

— Boston Oyster House.

Some prefer to roll oysters in corn-meal and others use flour, but they are

much more crisp with egg and cracker-crumbs.

OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER.

Ingredients. — i pint of oysters, 2 eggs, i pint of milk, sufficient flour to make
the batter; pepper and salt to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg; hot lard.

Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay them on a cloth
to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin, mix the flour with them, add
the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, and put the oysters in a batter.
Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan; put in the oysters, one at a time; when
done, take them up with a sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin.
Fried oysters are frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few
bread-crumbs should be added to the floiu:.

SHELLr-FISH. 63

STEWED OYSTERS. (In Milk or Cream.)

Drain the liquor from two quarts of oysters; mix with it a small teacupful
of hot water, add a little salt and pepper, and set it over the fire in a sauce-pan.
Let it boil up once, put in the oysters, let them come to a boil, and when they
"ruffle " add two tablespoonfuls of butter. The instant it is melted and well
stirred in, put in a pint of boiling milk, and tal^e the sauce-pan from the fire.
Serve with oyster or cream crackers. Serve while hot.

If thickening is preferred, stir in a little florn: or two tablespoonfuls of cracker-
crumbs.

PLAIN OYSTER STEW.

Same as milk or cream stew, using only oyster liquor and water instead of
milk or cream, adding more butter after taking up.

OYSTER SOUP.
For oyster soup, see Soups.

DRY OYSTER STEW.

Take six to twelve large oysters and cook them in half a pint of their own
liquor; season with butter and white pepper; cook for five minutes, stirring con-
stantly. Serve in hot soup-plates or bowls.

— Fulton MarJcety New York.

BOSTON FRY.

Prepare the oysters in egg batter and fine cracker meal; fry in butter over a

slow fire for about ten minutes; cover the hollow of a hot platter with tomato

sauce; place the oysters in it, but not covering; garnished with chopped parsley

sprinkled over the oysters.

— Boston Oyster House.

BROILED OYSTERS.

Dry a quart of oysters in a cloth, dip each in melted butter weU peppered;
then in beaten egg, or not, then in bread or cracker-crumbs, also peppered.
Broil on a wire broiler over live coals, three to five minutes. Dip over each a
little melted butter. Serve hot.

ROAST OYSTERS IN THE SHELL.

Select the large ones, those usually termed ^' Saddle Rocks," formerly known
as a distinct variety, but which are now but the large oysters selected from any
beds; wash and wipe them, and place with the upper or deep shell down, to

. \

64 SHELL-FISH.

catch the juice, over or on live coals. When they open their shells, remove the
shallow one, being careful to save all the juice in the other; place them, shells and
all, on a hot platter, and send to table hot, to be seasoned by each person with
butter and pepper to taste. If the oysters are fine, and they are just cooked
enough and served all hot, this is, 'par excellence, the style.

OYSTER ROAST. No. 2.

Put one quart of oysters in a basin with their own Uquor and let them boil
three or four minutes; season with a Uttle salt, pepper and a heaping spoonful
of butter. Serve on buttered toast.

STEAMED OYSTERS.

Wash and drain a quart of counts or select oysters; put them in a shallow
pan and place in a steamer over boiling water; cover and steam till they are
plump, with the. edges rufBed, but no longer. Place in a heated dish, with but-
ter, pepper and salt, and serve.

— BaUimare Style.

STEAMED OYSTERS IN THE SHELL.

Wash and place them in an air-tight vessel, laying them the upper shell
downward, so that the liquor will not run out when they open. Place this dish
or vessel over a pot of boiling water where they will get the steam. Boil them
rapidly until the shells open, about fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve at once
while hot« seasoned with butter, salt and pepper.

PAN OYSTERS. No. i.

Cut some stale bread in thin slices, taking off all the crust; round the slices

to fit patty -pans, toast, butter, place them in the pans and moisten with three or

four teaspoonfuls of oyster liquor; place on the toast a layer of oysters, sprinkle

with pepper, and put a small piece of butter on top of each pan; place all the

pans in a baking-pan, and place in the oven, covering tightly. They will cook

in seven or eight minutes if the oven is hot; or, cook till the beards are ruffled;

remove the covei^ sprinkle lightly with salt, replace, and cook one minute

longer. Serve in palty-pans. They are delicious.

—Ifew York Siyle.

PAN OYSTERS. No. 2.

Lay in a thin pie-tin or dripping-pan half a pint of large oysters, or more if
required; have the pan large enough so that each oyster will lie flat on the hot*

SHELL-FISH. 65

torn; put in over them a little oyster liquor, but not enough to float; place them

carefully in a hot oven and just heat them through thoroughly — do not bake

them — which will be in three to five minutes, according to fire; take them up

and place on toast; first moistened with the hot juice from the pan. Are a very

good substitute for oysters roasted in the shell, the slow cooking bringing out

the flavor.

— French Restaurant^ New Orleans, La.

OYSTER FRITTERS.

Select plump, good-sized oysters; drain oflf the juice, and to a cup of this
juice add a cup of milk, a little salt, four well-beaten eggs, and flour enough to
make batter like griddle-cakes.

Envelop an oyster in a spoonful of this batter, (some cut them in halves or
chop them fine,) then fry in butter and lard, mixed in a frying-pan the same as
we fry eggs, tmning to fry brown on both sides. Send to the table very hot.

— Delmonico,

Most cooks fry oyster fritters the same as crullers, in a quantity of hot
lard, but this is not always convenient; either way they are excellent.

OYSTER PATTIES.

Line patty-pans with thin pastry, pressing it well to the tin. Put a piece
of bread or a ball of paper in each. Cover them with paste and brush them over
with the white of an egg. Cut an inch square of thin pastry, place on the
centre of each, glaze this also with egg, and bake in a quick oven fifteen to
twenty minutes. Remove the bread or paper when half cold.

Scald as many oysters as you require (allowing two for each patty, three if
small) in their own Uquor. Cut each in four and strain the liquor. Put two
tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour into a thick sauce-pan; stir them
together over the fire till the flour smells cooked, and then pour half a pint of
oyster liquor and half a pint of milk into the flour and butter. (If you have
cream, use it instead of milk.) Stir till it is a thick, smooth sauce. Put the
oysters into it and let them boil once. Beat the yolks of two eggs. Remove
the oysters for one minute from the fire, then stir the eggs into them till the
sauce looks hke thick custard.

Fill the patties with this oyster fricassee, taking care to make it hot by stand-
ing in boiling water before dinner on the day required, and to make the patty

cases hot before you fiU them.

66 SHELL'FISH.

FULTON MARKET ROAST.

It is still known in New York from the place at which it was and is still
served. Take nine large oysters in the shell; wash, dry and roast over a char-
coal fire, on a broiler. Two minutes after the shells open they will be done.
Take them up quickly, saving the juice in a small, shallow, tin pan; keep hot
until all are done; butter them and sprinkle with pepper.

This is served for one person when caUing for a roast of this kind. It is often
I)oured over a sUce of toast.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
Have ready about a pint bowl of fine cracker-crumbs. Butter a deep earthen
dish; put a layer of the cracker-crumbs on the bottom; wet this with some of
the oyster Uquor; next have a layer of oysters; sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and lay small bits of butter upon them; then another layer of cracker-crumbs
and oyster juice; then oysters, pepper, salt and butter, and so on, until the dish
is full; the top layer to be cracker-crumbs. Beat up an egg in a cup of millr and
turn over all. Cover the dish and set it in the oven for thirty or forty-five minutes.
When baked through, uncover the top, set on the upper grate and brown.

OYSTER POT-PIE.

Scald a quart can of oysters in their own liquor; when it boils, skim out the

oysters and set aside in a warm place. To the liquor add a pint of hot water;

season well with salt and pepper, a generous piece of butter, thicken with flour

and cold milk. Have ready nice light biscuit dough, rolled twice as thick as

pie-crust; cut out into inch squares, drop them into the boiling stew, cover closely,

and cook forty minutes. When taken up, stir the oysters into the juice and

serve all together in one dish. A nice side entr6e.

— Pr Mice's Bat/y S.L

BOSTON OYSTER PIE.

Having buttered the inside of a deep pie-plate, line it with puff-paste, or
common pie-crust, and prepare another sheet of paste for the lid; put a clean
towel into the dish (folded so as to support the lid), set it into the oven and bake
the paste well; when done, remove the hd and take out the towel. While the
paste is baking prepare the oysters. Having picked off carefully every bit of
shell that may be found about them, drain off the liquor into a pan and put the
oysters into a stew-pan with barely enough of the liquor to keep them from
burning; season them with pepper, salt and butter; add a little sweet cream
or milk, and one or two crackers rolled fine; let the oysters simmer, but not

SHELL-FISH. 6 J

boily as that will shrivel them. Keraove the upper crust of pastry and fill the
dish with the oysters and gravy; replace the cover and serve hot.

Some prefer baking the upper crust on a pie-plate, the same size as the pie^
then sUpping it off on top of the pie after the same is filled with the oysters.

MOCK OYSTERS.

Grate the com, while green and tender, with a coarse grater, into a deep
dish. To two ears of com, allow one egg; beat the whites and yolks separately,
and add them to the com, with one tablespoonf ul of wheat flour and one of
butter, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper to taste. Drop spoonfuls of this batter
into a frying-pan with hot butter and lard mixed, and fry a light brown on both
sides.

In taste, they have a singular resemblance to fried oysters. The com must
be young.

FRICASSEED OYSTERS.

Take a slice of raw ham, which has been pickled, but not smoked, and soak
in boiling water for half an hour; cut it in quite small pieces, and put in a sauce-
pan with two-thirds of a pint of veal or chicken broth, well strained; the Uquor
from a quart of oysters, one small onion, minced fine, and a little chopped
parsley, sweet marjoram, and pepper; let them simmer for twenty minutes, and
then boil rapidly two or three minutes; skim well, and add one scant table -
spoonful of corn-starch, mixed smoothly in one- third cup of milk; stir constantly,
and when it boils add the oysters and one ounce of butter; after which, just let
it come to a boil, and remove the oysters to a deep dish; beat one eggj and add
to it gradually some of the hot broth, and, when cooked, stir it into the pan;
season with salt, and pour the whole over the oysters. When placed upon the
table, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it.

SMALL OYSTER PIES.

For each pie take a tin plate half the size of an ordinary dinner plate; butter
it, and cover the bottom with a puff paste, as for pies; lay on it five or six select
oysters, or enough to cover the bottom; butter them and season with a httle salt
and plenty of pepper; spread over this an egg batter, and cover with a crust of
the paste, making small openings in it with a fork. Bake in a hot oven fifteen
to twenty minutes, or until the top is nicely browned.

— Boston Oyster Hon^e.

68 SHELL-FISH.

STEWED CLAMS.

Wash clean as many round clams as required; pile them in a large iron pot,
with half a cupful of hot water in the bottom, and put over the fire; as soon as
the shells open, take out the clams, cut off the hard, uneatable " fringe '^ from
each, with strong, dean scissors, put them into a stew-pan with the broth from
the pot, and boil slowly till they are quite tender; pepper weU, and thicken the
gravy with flour, stirred into melted butter.

Or, you may get two dozen freshly opened very small clams. Boil a pint of
milk, a dash of white pepper and a small pat of butter. Now add the clams.
Let them come to a boil, and serve. Longer boiling will make the dams almost
indigestible.

ROAST CLAMS IN THE SHELL.
Eoast in a pan over a hot fire, or in a hot oven, or, at a " Clam Bake, " on hot
stones; when they open, empty the juice into a sauce-pan; add the clams with

butter, pepper and a very little salt.

— Rye Beach.

CLAM FRITTERS.
Take fifty small or twenty-five large sand clams from their shells; if large,
cut each in two, lay them on a thickly folded napkin; put a pint bowl of wheat
flour into a basin, add to it three well-beaten eggs, half a pint of sweet milk,
and nearly as much of their own liquor; beat the batter imtil it is smooth and
perfectly free from lumps; then stir in the clams. Put plenty of lard or bsef fat
into a thick-bottomed frying-pan, let it become boiling hot; put in the batter by
the spoonful; let them fry gently; when one side is a delicate brown, turn the
other.

CLAM CHOWDER.

The materials needed are fifty round clams (quahogs), a large bowl of salt
pork, cut up fine, the same of onions, finely chopped, and the same (or more, if
you desire,) of potatoes cut into eighths or sixteenths of original size; wash the
clams very thoroughly, and put them in a pot with half a pint of water; when
the shells are open they are done; then take them from the shells and chop fine,
saving all the clam water for the chowder; fry out the pork very gently, and
when the scraps are a good brown, take them out and put in the chopped
onions to fry; they should be fried in a frying-pan, and the chowder-kettle be
made very clean before they are put in it, or the chowder will bum. (The
chief secret in chowder-making is to fry the onions so dehcately that they will
be missing in the chowder.)

SHELLr-FISH. 69

Add a quart of hot water to the onions; put in the clams^ clam- water and
pork scraps. After it boils, add the potatoes, and when they are cooked, the
-chowder is finished. Just before it is taken up, thicken it with a cup of pow-
dered crackers, and add a quart of fresh milk. If too rich, add more water. No
Beasoning is needed but good black pepper.

With the addition of six sliced tomatoes, or half a can of the canned ones^
tliis is the best recipe of this kind, and is sei-ved in many of our best restaurants.

— Ntw Bedford Recipe*

SCALLOPED CLAMS.

Purchase a dozen large soft clams in the shell and three dozen opened clams.
Ask the dealer to open the first dozen, care being used not to injure the shells,
which are to be used in cooking the clams. Clean the shells well, and put two
fioft clams on each half shell; add to each a dash of white pepper, and half a
teaspoonful of minced celery. Cut a slice of fat bacon into the smallest dice, add
four of these to each shell, strew over the top a thin layer of cracker-dust; place
a piece of table butter on top, and bake in the oven until brown. They are
delightful when properly prepared.

SCALLOPS.

K bought in the shell boil them and take out the hearts, which is the only
part iised. Dip them in beaten egg, and fry in the same manner as oysters.
Some prefer them stewed the same as oysters.

FROGS FRIED.

Progs are usually fried, and are considered a great delicacy. Only the hind-
legs and quarters are used. Clean them well, season, and fry in egg batter, or
dipped in beaten egg and fine cracker-crumbs, the same as oysters.

FROGS STEWED.

Wash and skin the quarters, parboil them about three minutes, drain them.
Now, put into a stew-pan two ounces of butter. When it is melted, lay in the
frogs, and fry about two minutes, stirring them to prevent biurdng; shake over
them a tablespoonful of sifted flour and stir it into them; add a sprig of parsley,
a pinch of powdered summer savory, a bay leaf, three shces of onion, salt and
pepper, a cup of hot water and one of cream. Boil gently until done; remove
the legs, strain and mix into the gravy the yolks of two eggs, well beaten to a
cream; put the legs in a suitable dish, pour over the gravy and serve.

. CN^^^e/S*/^ , , e\ffXoe/5)/0 .

^&^«xi)'^ ' ' ^fe^^X^"^ '

In choosing poultry, select those that are fresh and fat, and the surest way
to determine whether they are young, is to try the skin under the leg or wing.
If it is easily broken, it is young; or, turn the wing backwards, if the joint yields
readily, it is tender. When poultry is young the skin is thin and tender, the
legs smooth, the feet moist and Umber, and the eyes full and bright. The body
should be thick and the breast fat. Old turkeys have long hairs, and the flesh
is purplish where it shows under the skin on the legs and back. About March
they deteriorate in quality.

Young ducks and geese are plump, with light, semi-transparent fat, soft
breast -bone, tender flesh, leg- joints which will break by the weight of the bird,
fresh-colored and brittle beaks, and wind -pipes that break when pressed between
the thumb and forefinger. They are best in fall and winter.

Toimg pigeons have light red flesh upon the breast, and full, fresh-colored
legs; when the legs are thin and the breast very dark the birds are old.

Fine game birds are always heavy for their size; the flesh of the breast is
firm and plump, and the skin clear; and if a few feathers be plucked from the
inside of the leg and around the vent, the flesh of freshly-killed birds will be fat
and fresh-colored; if it is dark and discolored, the game has been hung a long
time. The wings of good ducks, geese, pheasants, and woodcock are tender to
the touch; the tips of the long wing feathers of partridges are pointed in young
birds and roimd in old ones. Quail, snipe and small birds should have full,
tender breasts. Poultry should never be cooked until six or eight hours after it
has been killed, but it should be picked and drawn as soon as possible. Plunge
it in a pot of scalding hot water; then pluck oif the feathers, taking care not to
tear the skin; when it is picked clean, roll up a piece of white paper, set fire to
it, and singe oflE all the hairs. The head, neck and feet should be cut off, and
the ends of the legs skewered to the body, and a string tied tightly around the
body. When roastiag a chicken or small fowl there is danger of the legs brown-

POULTRY AND GAME. 71

ing or becoming too hard to be eaten. To avoid this, take strips of cloth, dip
them into a little melted lard, or even just rub them over with lard, and wind
them aromid the legs. Remove them in time to allow the legs to brown deli-
catelv.

Fowls, and also various kinds of game, when bought at our city markets^
require a more thorough cleansing than those sold in country places, where as a
general thing the meat is wholly dressed. In large cities they lay for some
length of time with the intestines undrawn, imtil the flavor of them diffuses itself
all through the meat, rendering it distasteful. In this case, it is safe after taking
out the intestines, to rinse out in several waters, and in next to the last water,
add a teaspoonful of baking soda; say to a quart of water. This process neutral-
izes all sourness, and helps to destroy all impleasant taste in the meat.

Poultry may be baked so that its wings and legs are soft and tender, by being
placed in a deep roasting pan with close cover, thereby retaining the aroma and
essences by absorption while confined. These pans are a recent innovation, and
are made double with a small opening in the top for giving vent to the accumu-
lation of steam and gases when required. Eoast meats of any kind can also be
cooked in the same manner, and it is a great improvement on the old plan.

ROAST TURKEY.

Select a young turkey; remove all the feathers carefully, singe it over a burn-
ing newspaper on the top of the stove; then " draw " it nicely, being very care-
ful not to break any of the internal organs; remove the crop carefully; cut off
the head, and tie the neck close to the body by drawing the skin over it. Now
rinse the inside of the turkey out with several waters, and in the next to the
last, mix a teaspoonful of baking soda; oftentimes the inside of a fowl is very
sour, especially if it is not freshly killed. Soda, being cleansing, acts as a cor-
rective, and destroys that unpleasant taste which we frequently experience in the
dressing when fowls have been killed for some time. Now, after washing, wipe
the turkey dry, inside and out, with a clean cloth, rub the inside with some salt,
then stuff the breast and body with " Dressing for Fowls.'* Then sew up the
turkey with a strong thread, tie the legs and wings to the body, rub it over with
a little soft butter, sprinkle over some salt and pepper, dredge with a little flour;
place it in a dripping pan, pour in a cup of boiling water, and set it in the oven.
Baste the turkey often, turning it around occasionally so that every part will be
uniformly baked. When pierced with a fork and the liquid runs out perfectly
dear^ the bird i^ done- If any part is likely to scorch, pin over it a piece of but-

72 POULTRY AND GAME.

tered white paper. A fifteen-pound turkey requires between three and four
hours to bake. Serve with cranberry sauce.

Qravy for Turkey.— Whsu you put the turkey in to roast, put the neck,
heart, liver and gizzard into a stew-pan with a pint of water; boil until they
become quite tender; take them out of the water, chop the heart and gizzard,
mash the liver and throw away the neck; return the chopped heart, gizzard and
liver to the liquor in which they were stewed; set it to one side, and when the
tinrkey is done it should be added to the gravy that dripped from the turkey,
having first skimmed off the fat from the smface of the dripping-pan; set it all
over the fire, boil three minutes and thicken with flour. It will not need brown
floin: to color the gravy. The garnishes for turkey or chicken are fried oysters,
thin slices of ham, slices of lemon, fried sausages, or force-meat balls, also
X>arsley.

DRESSING OR STUFFING FOR FOWLS.

For an eight or ten pound turkey, cut the brown crust from slices or pieces
of stale bread until you have as mudi as the inside of a pound \oal\ put it into a
suitable dish, and pour tepid water (not warm, for that makes it heavy) over it;
let it stand one minute, as it soaks very quickly. Now take up a handful at a
time and squeeze it hard and dry with both hands, placing it, as you go along, in
another dish; this process makes it veiy light. When all is pressed dry, toss it
all up lightly through your fingers; now add pepper, salt, — about a teaspoonful
— also a teaspoonful of powdered simimer savory, the same amount of sage, or
the green herb minced fine; add half a cup of melted butter, and a beaten egg,
or not. Work thoroughly all together, and it is ready for dressing either fowls,
fish or meats. A little chopped sausage in turkey dressing is considered by some
an improvement, when well incorporated with the other ingredients. For geese
and ducks the stuffing may be made the same as for turkey with the addition
of a few slices of onion chopped fine.

OYSTER DRESSING OR STUFFING.

This is made with the same ingredients as the above, with the exception of
half a can of oysters drained, and slightly chopped and added to the rest. This
is used mostly with boiled turkey and chicken, and the remainder of the can of
oysters used to make an oyster sauce to be poured over the turkey when served;
served generally in a separate dish, to be dipped out as a person desires.

These recipes were obtained from an old colored cook, who was famous for
his fine dressings for fowls, fish and meats, and his advice was, always soak

FO UL TR Y AND GAME. 73

stale bread in cold liquid, either milk or water, when used for stuffing or for pud-
dings, as they were much lighter. Hot liquid makes them heavy.

BOILED TURKEY.

Prepare as you would for baking or roasting; fill with an oyster stufiSng,
made as the above. Tie the legs and wings close to the body, place in salted
boihng water with the breast downward; skim it often and boil about two
hours, but not till the skin breaks. Serve with oyster or celery sauce. Boil a
nicely pickled piece of salt pork, apd serve at table a thin slice to each plate.
Some prefer bacon or ham instead of pork.

Some roll the turkey in a cloth dipped in flour. If the liquor is to be used
afterwards for soup, the cloth imparts an unpleasant flavor. The liquor can be
saved and made into a nice soup for the next day's dinner, by adding the same
seasonings as for chicken soup.

TURKEY SCALLOP.

Pick the meat from the bones of cold turkey, and chop it fine. Put a layer
of bread-crumbs on the bottom of a buttered dish, moisten them with a little
milk, then put in a layer of turkey with some of the fiUing, and cut small pieces
of butter over the top; sprinkle with pepper and salt; then another layer of
bread-crumbs, and so on until the dish is nearly full; add a Uttle hot water to
the gravy left from the tiu'key and pour over it; then take two eggs, two table-
spoonfuls of milk, one of melted butter, a little salt and cracker-crumbs as much
as will make it thick enough to spread on with a knife; put bits of butter over
it, and cover with a plate. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Ten minutes before
serving, remove the plate and let it brown.

TURKEY HASHED.

Cut the remnants of turkey from a previous dinner into pieces of equai size.
Boil the bones in a quart of water, until the quart is reduced to a pint; then take
out the bones, and to the liquor in which they were boiled add turkey gravy,
if you have any, or white stock, or a small piece of butter with salt and pepper;
let the liquor thus prepared boil up once; then put in the pieces of turkey, dredge
in a Uttle flour, give it one boil-up, and serve in a hot dish.

TURKEY WARMED OVER.

Pieces of cold turkey or chicken may be warmed up with a little butter in a
frying-pan; place it on a warm platter, surround it with pieces of small thick
slices of bread or biscuit halved, first dipping them in hot salted water; then

74 POULTRY AND GAME.

place the platter in a warm oven with the door open. Have already made the
following gravy to poiu" over all:

Into the frying-pan put a large spoonful of butter, one or two cupfuls of
milk, and any gravy that may be left over. Bring it to a boil; then add suflB-
dent flour, wet in a little cold milk or water, to make it the consistency of
cream. Season with salt, pepper and add a Uttle of the dark meat chopped very
fine. Let the sauce cook a few moments; then pour over the biscuit and fowl.
This will be found a really nice dish.

BONED TURKEY.

dean the fowl as usual. With a sharp and pointed knife, begin at the
extremity of the wing, and pass the knife down close to the bone, cutting all the
flesh from the bone, and preserving the skin whole; run the knife down each
side of the breast bone and up the legs, keeping close to the bone; then spUt the
back half way up, and draw out the bones; fill the places whence the bones
were taken with a stufiing, restoring the fowl to its natural form, and sew up
all the incisions made in the skin. Lard with two or three rows of slips of fat
bacon on the top, basting often with salt and water, and a httle butter. Some
like a glass of port wine in the gravy.

This is a difficult dish to attempt by any but skillful hands. Carve across
in slices, and serve with tomato sauce.

ROAST GOOSE.

The goose should not oe more than eight months old, and the fatter the more
tender and juicy the meat. Stuff with the following mixture: Three pints of
bread-crumbs, six ounces of butter, or part butter and part salt pork, one tea-
spoonful each of sage, black pepper and salt, one chopped onion. Do not stuff
very full, and stitch openings firmly together to keep flavor in and fat out.
Place in a baking pan with a httle water, and baste frequently with salt and
water (some add vinegar); turn often so that the sides and back may be nicely
browned. Bake two hours or more; when done take from the pan, pour off the
fat, and to the brown gravy left, add the chopped giblets which have previously
been stewed until tender, together with the water they were boiled in; thicken
with a little floiu* and butter rubbed together, bring to a boil and serve. English
style.

ROAST CHICKEN.

Kck and draw them, wash out well in two or three waters, adding a httle soda
to the last but one to sweeten it. if there is doubt as to its being fresh. Dry it

POULTRY AND GAME, 75

well with a clean cloth^ and fill the crop and body with a stuffing the same as
" Dressing for Fowls." Lay it in a dripping-pan; put a pint of hot water and a
piece of butter in the dripping-pan, add to it a small tablespoonf ul of salt, and a
small teaspoonful of pepper; baste frequently, and let it roast quickly, without
scorching; when nearly done, put a piece of butter the size of a large egg to the
water in the pan; when it melts, baste with it, dredge a Uttle flour over, baste
again, and let it finish; half an hour will roast a full-grown chicken, if the fire
is right. When done, take it up.

Having stewed the necks, gizzards, livers and hearts in a very little water,
strain it and mix it hot with the gravy that has dripped from the fowls, and
which must be first skimmed. Thicken it with a httle browned flour, add to it
the hvers, hearts and gizzards chopped smaU. Or, put the giblets in the pan
with the chicken, and let them roast. Send the fowls to the table with the
gravy in a boat. Cranberry sauce should accompany them, or any tart sauce.

BOILED CHICKEN.

Clean, wash and stuff, as for roasting. Baste a floured cloth around each,
and put into a pot with enough boiling water to cover them well. The hot
water cooks the skin at once and prevents the escape of the juice. The broth
will not be so rich as if the fowls are put on in cold water, but this is a proof
that the meat will be more nutritious and better flavored. Stew very slowly,
for the first half hour especially. Boil an hour or more, guidiug yoinrself by
size and toughness. Serve with egg, bread, or oyster sauce. (See Sauces.)

STEAMED CHICKEN.

Rub the chicken on the inside with pepper and half a teaspoonful of salt;
place in a steamer in a kettle that will keep it as near the water as possible,
cover, and steam an hour and a half; when done, keep hot while dressing is
prepared, then cut up, arrange on the platter, and serve with the dressing over
them.

The dressing is made as follows: Boil one pint of gravy from the kettle with-
out the fat, add cayenne pepper and half a teaspoonful of salt; stir a tablespoonf ul
of flour into a quarter of a pint of cream until smooth, and add to the gravy.
Com starch may be used instead of the flom-, and some cooks add nutmeg or
celery salt.

FRICASSEE CHICKEN.

Cut up two young chickens, put them in a stew-pan with just enough cold
water to cover them. Cover closely, and let them heat very slowly; then stew

76 PO UL TR y AND GAME.

them over an nour, or until tender. K they are old chickens, they will require
long, slow boiUng, often from three to four hours. When tender, season with
salt and pepper, a piece of butter as large as an egg, and a httle celery, if liked.
Stir up two tablespoonfuls of flour in a little water or milk, and add to the stew,
also two well beaten yolks of eggs; let all boil up one minute; arrSmge the chicken
on a warm platter, pour some of the gravy over it, and send the rest to the table
in a boat. The egg should be added to a httle of the cooled gravy, before putting
with the hot gravy.

STEWED WHOLE SPRING CHICKEN.

Dress a full-grown spring chicken the same as for roasting, seasoning it with
salt and pepper inside and out; then fill the body with oysters; place it in a tin
pail with a close-fitting cover. Set the paU in a pot of fast-boiling water and
cook imtil the chicken is tender. Dish up the chicken on a warm dish, then
pour the gravy into a sauce-pan, put into it a tablespoonful jf butter, half of a
cupful of cream or rich milk, three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine; some minced
herbs and a tablespoonful of flour. Let all boil up and then pour it over the
chicken. Serve hot.

PICKLED CHICKEN.

Boil four chickens till tender enough for meat to fall from bones: put meat
in a stone jar, and pour over it three pints of cold, good cider vinegar and a pint
and a half of the water in which the chickens were boiled; add spices if preferred,
and it will be ready for use in two days. This is a popular Sunday evening dish;
it is good for luncheon at any time.

RISSOLES OP CHICKEN.

Mince up finely the remains of a cold chicken together with half the quan-
tity of lean, cold ham. Mix them well, adding enough white sauce to moisten
them. Now have light paste rolled out until about a quarter of an inch or a
little more in thickness. Cut the paste into pieces, one inch by two in size, and
lay a httle of the mixture upon the centres of half of the pieces and cover them
with the other halves, pressing the edges neatly together and forming them into
httle rolls. Have your frying-pan ready with plenty of boiling hot lard, or other
frying medium, and fry until they become a golden -brown color. A minute or
two will be sufficient for this. Then drain them well and serve inmiediately on
a napkin.

POULTRY AND GAME. 77

CHICKEN PATTIES.

Mince up fine cold chicken, either roasted or boiled. Season it with pepper
and salt, and a little minced parsley and onion. Moisten it with chicken gravy
or cream sauce, fill scalloped shells that are lined with pastry with the mixture,
and sprinkle bread-crumbs over the tops. Put two or three tiny pieces of butter
over each, and bake brown in a hot oven.

TO BROIL CHICKEN.

After dressing and washing the chickens as previously directed, spht them
open through the back-bone; frog them by cutting the cords under the wings
and laying the wings out flat; cut the sinews under the second joint of the leg
and turn the leg down; press down the breast-bone without breaking it.

Season the chicken with salt and pepper, lay it upon the gridiron with the
inside first to the fire; put the gridiron over a slow fire, and place a tin sheet and
weight upon the chicken, to keep it flat; let it broil ten minutes, then turn and
proceed in the same manner with the other side.

The chicken should be perfectly cooked, but not scorched. A broiled chicken
brought to the table with its wings and legs burnt, and its breast half cooked, is
very disagreeable. To avoid this, the chicken must be closely watched while
broiling, and the fire must be arranged so that the heat shaU be equally dis-
pensed. When the fire is too hot under any one part of the chicken, put a little
ashes on the fire imder that part, that the heat may be reduced.

Dish a broiled chicken on a hot plate, putting a large lump of butter and a
tablespoonf ul of hot water upon the plate, and turning the chicken two or
three times that it may absorb as much of the butter as possible. Garnish with
parsley. Serve with poached eggs on a separate dish. It takes from thirty to
forty minutes to broil a chicken well.

CHICKEN PIE.

Prepare the chicken as for fricassee. When the chickens are stewed tender,
seasoned, and the gravy thickened, take it from the fire; take out the largest
bones, scrape the meat from the neck and back-bone, throw the bones away;
line the sides of a four or six quart pudding-dish with a rich baking powder or soda
biscuit-dough, a quarter of an inch thick; put in part of the chicken, a few
lumps of butter, pepper and salt, if needed, some cold boiled eggs cut in slices.
Add the rest of the chicken and season as before; a few new potatoes in their
season might be added. Poinr over the gravy, being sure to have enough to

78 POULTRY AND GAME.

fill the dish, and cover with a crust a quarter of an inch thick, made with a hole
in the centre the size of a teacup.

Brush over the top with beaten white of egg, and bake for half to three-
quarters of an hour. Gfamish the top with small bright celery leaves, neatly
arranged in a circle.

FRIED CHICKEN.

Wash and cut up a young chicken, wipe it dry, season with salt and pepper,
dredge it with flour, or dip each piece in beaten egg and then in cracker-crumbs.
Have in a frying-pan, one ounce each of butter and sweet lard, made boiling hot.
Lay in the chicken and fry brown on both sides. Take up, drain them, and set
aside in a covered dish. Stir into the gravy left, if not too much, a large table-
spoonful of flour, make it smooth, add a cup of cream or nulk, season with salt
and pepper, boil up and pour over the chicken. Some like chopped parsley
added to the gravy. Serve hot.

If the chicken is old, put into a stew-pan with a little water, and simmer
gently till tender; season with salt and pepper, dip in flour or cracker-crumb and
Qgg, and fry as above. Use the broth the chicken was cooked in to make the
gravy instead of the cream or milk, or use an equal quantity of both.

FRIED CHICKEN A LA ITALIENNE.

Make common batter; mix into it a cupful of chopped tomatoes, one onion
chopped, some minced parsley, salt and pepper. Cut up young fender chickens,
dry them well and dip each piece in the batter; then fry brown in plenty of butter,
in a thick bottom frying-pan. Serve with tomato sauce.

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. No. i.

Put a cup of cream or milk in a sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and when it
boils add a lump of butter as large as an egg, in which has been mixed a table-
spoonful of flour. Let it boil up thick; remove from the fire, and when cool, mix
into it a teaspoonf ul of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a bit of minced onion
or parsley, one cup of fine bread-crumbs, and a pint of finely-chopped cooked
chicken, either roasted or boiled. Lastly, beat up two eggs and work in with the
whole. Floin: your hands and make into small, round, flat cakes; dip in egg
and bread-crumbs, and fry like flsh-cakes, in butter and good sweet lard mixed,
or like fried cakes in plenty of hot lard. Take them up with a skimmer and lay
them on brown paper to free them from the grease. Serve hot.

POULTRY AND GAME. 79

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. No. 2.

Take any kind of fresh meat or fowl, chop very fine, add an equal quantity
of smoothly mashed potatoes, mix, and season with butter, salt, black pepper, a
little prepared mustard, and a little cayenne pepper; make into cakes, dip in egg
and bsead-crumbs and fry a light brown. A nice relish for tea.

TO FRY CROQUETTES.

Beat up two eggs in a deep bowl; roll enough crackers until you have a cup-
ful of crumbs, or the same of fine stale bread-crumbs; spread the crumbs on a
large plate or pie-tin. Have over the fire a kettle containing two or three inches
of boiling lard. As fast as the croquettes are formed, roll them in the crumbs,
then dip them in the beaten egg, then again roll them in crumbs; drop them in
the smoking hot fat and fry them a Ught golden brown.

PRESSED CHICKEN.

Clean and cut up your chickens. Stew in just enough water to cover them.
When nearly cooked, season them well with salt and pepper. Let them stew
down until the water is nearly all boiled out, and the meat drops easily from the
bones. Remove the bones and gristle; chop the meat rather coarsely, then tiun
it back into the stew-kettle, where the broth was left (after skimming off all fat),
and let it heat through again. Turn it into a square bread-pan, placing a platter
on the top, and a heavy weight on the platter. This, if properly prepared, will
turn out like a mold of jeUy and may be shced in smooth, even slices. The suc-
cess of this depends upon not having too much water; it will not jelly if too weak,
or if the water is allowed to boil away entirely while cooking. A good way to
cook old fowls.

CHICKEN LUNCH FOR TRAVELLING.

Cut a young chicken down the back; wash and wipe dry; season with salt
and pepper; put in a dripping pan and bake in a moderate oven three-quai1;ers
of an hour. This is much better for travelling lunch than when seasoned with
butter.

All kinds of poultry and meat can be cooked quicker by adding to the water
in which they are boiled a Uttle vinegar or a piece of lemon. By the use of a
little acid there will be a considerable saving of fuel, as well as shortening of
time. Its action is beneficial on old tough meats, rendering them quite tender
and easy of digestion. Tainted meats and fowls will lose their bad taste and

80 POULTRY AND GAME.

odor if cooked in this way, and if not used too freely no taste of it will be
acquired.

POTTED CHICKEN.

Strip the meat from the bones of a cold, roast fowl; to every pound of meat
allow a quarter of a pound of butter, salt and cayenne pepper to taste; one tea-
spoonful of pounded mace, hsdf a small nutmeg. Cut the meat into small
pieces, pound it well with the butter, sprinkle in the spices gradually, and keep
pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Pack it into small jars
and cover with clarified butter, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Two or
three slices of ham, minced and pounded with the above, wiU be an improve-
ment. Keep in a dry place. A luncheon or breakfast dish.

Old fowls can be made very tender by putting into them, while boiUng, a
piece of soda as large as a bean.

SCALLOPED CHICKEN.

Divide a fowl into joints and boil till the meat leaves the bone readily. Take
out the bones and chop the meat as small as dice. Thicken the water in which
the fowl was boiled with flour, and season to taste with butter and salt. Fill a
deep dish with alternate layers of bread-crumbs and chicken and shoes of cooked
potatoes, having crumbs on top. Poxu* the gravy over the top, and add a few
bits of butter and bake till nicely browned. There should be gravy enough to
moisten the dish. Serve with a garnish of parsley. Tiny new potatoes are nice
in place of sliced ones, when in season.

BREADED CHICKEN.

Prepare yoimg chickens as for fricassee by cutting them into pieces. Dip
each piece in beaten egg, then in grated bread-crumbs or rolled cracker; season
them with pepper and salt, and a httle minced parsley. Place them in a baking-
])an, and put on the top of each piece a lump of butter, add half of a cupful of
hot water; bake slowly, basting often. When sufficiently cooked take up on a
warm platter. Into the pan pour a cup of cream or rich milk, a cupful of
bread-crumbs. Stir it well until cooked then pour it over the chicken. Serve
while hot.

BROILED CHICKEN ON TOAST.

Broil the usual way, and when thoroughly done take it up in a square tin or
dripping-pan, butter it weU, season with pepper and salt, and set it in the oven
for a few minutes. Lay slices of moistened buttered toast on a platter; take the

POULTRY AND GAME. 8 1

chicken up over it, add to the gravy in the pan part of a cupful of cream, if you
have it; if not, use milk. Thicken with a little flour and pour over the chicken.
This is considered most excellent.

CURRY CHICKEN.

Cut up a chicken weighing from a pound and a half to two pounds, as for
fricassee, wash it well, and put it into a stew-pan with sufficient water to cover it;
boil it closely covered, until tender; add a large teaspoonful of salt, and cook a few
minutes longer; then remove from the fire, take out the chicken, pour the liquor
into a bowl, and set it one side. Now cut up into the stew-pan two small onions,
and fry them with a piece of butter as large as an egg; as soon as the onions are
brown, skim them out and put in the chicken; fry for three or four minutes;
next sprinkle over two teaspoonfuls of Curry Powder. Now pom: over the liquor
in which the chicken was stewed, stir all well together, and stew for five minutes
longer, then stir into this a tablespoonf ul of sifted flour made thin with a Uttle
water; lastly, stir in a beaten yolk of egg, and it is done.

Serve with hot boiled rice laid roimd on the edge of a platter, and the chicken
curry in the centre.

This makes a handsome side dish, and a fine relish accompanying a full
dinner of roast beef or any roast.

AD first-class grocers and druggists keep this '* India Curry Powder," put
up in bottles. Beef j veal, mutton, duck, pigeons, partridges, rabbits or fresh
fish may be substituted for the chicken, if preferred, and sent to the table with
or without a dish of rice.

To Boil Rice for Curry. — Pick over the rice, a cupful. Wash it thoroughly
in two or three cold waters; then leave it about twenty minutes in cold water.
Put into a stew-pan two quai-ts of water with a teaspoonful of salt in it, and
when it boils, sprinkle in the rice. Boil it briskly for twenty minutes, keeping
the pan covered. Take it from the fire, and drain off the water. Afterwards
set the sauce-pan on the back of the stove, with the lid off, to allow the rice to
dry and the grains to separate.

Rice, if properly boiled, should be soft and white, and every grain stand
alone. Serve it hot in a separate dish or served as above, laid around the chicken
curry.

CHICKEN POT-PIE. No. i.

Cut and joint a large chicken, cover with cold water, and let it boil gently

until tender. Season with salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy with two

82 POULTRY AND GAME.

tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an %^.
Have ready nice light bread-dough; cut with the top of a wineglass about half
an inch thick; let them stand half an hour and rise, then drop these into the
boiling gravy. Put the cover on the pot closely, wrap a cloth around it, in order
that no steam shall escape; and by no means allow the pot to cease boiling. Boil
three-quarters of an hour.

CHICKEN POT-PIE. No. 2.

This style of pot-pie was made more in our grandmother^s day than now, as
most cooks consider that cooking crust so long destroys its spongey Ughtness,and
renders it too hard and dry.

Take a pair of fine fowls; cut them up, wash the pieces, and season with
pepper only. Make a light biscuit dough, and plenty of it, as it is always much
liked by the eaters of pot-pie. Boll out the dough not very thin, and cut most
of it into long squares. Butter the sides of a pot, and line them with dough
nearly to the top. Lay shces of cold ham at the bottom of the pot, and then the
pieces of fowl, interspersed all through with squares of dough and potatoes,
pared and quartered. Pour in a quart of water. Cover the whole with a Ud of
dough, having a sht in the centre, thi'ough which the gravy will bubble up.
Boil it steadily for two hours. Half an hour before you take it up, put in
through the hole in the centre of the crust some bits of butter roUed in flour, to
thicken the gravy. When done, put the pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy
over it.

You inay intersperse it all through with cold ham.

A pot-pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or venison. Also of beef-
steak. A beef- steak, or some pork-steaks (the lean only), greatly improve a
chicken pot-pie. If you use no ham, season with salt.

CHICKEN STEWED, WITH BISCUIT.

Take chickens, and make a fricassee; just before you are ready to dish it up,
have ready two baking- tins of rich soda or baking-powder biscuits; take them
from the oven hot, split them apart by breaking them with your hands, lay them
on a large meat platter, covering it, then pour the hot chicken stew over alL
Send to the table hot. This is a much better way than boiling this kind of
biscuit in the stew, as you are more sure of its being always Ught.

CHICKEN DRESSED AS TERRAPIN.

Select young chickens, clean and cut them into pieces; put them into a stew*
pan with just enough water to cook them. When tender stir into it half of a

PO UL TR Y AND GAME. 83

cap of butter and one beaten egg. Season it with salt and pepper, a teaspoonful
of powdered thyme; add two hard-boiled eggs coarsely minced and a small glass
of wine. Boil up once and serve with jeDy.

CHICKEN ROLY-POLY.

One quart of flour, two teaspoonf uls of cream tartar mixed with the flour,
one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a teacupful of milk; a teaspoonful of salt;
do not use shortening of any kind, but roll out the mixture half an inch thick,
and on it lay minced chicken, veal or mutton. The meat must be seasoned with
pepper and salt, and be free from gristle. EoU the crust over and over, and put
it on a buttered plate and place in a steamer for half an hour. Serve for break-
fast or liinch, giving a slice to each person with gravy served with it.

CHICKEN TURNOVERS.

Chop cold roast chicken very fine. Put it into a sauce-pan, place it over the
fire, moisten it with a Uttle water and gravy, or a piece of butter. Season with
salt and pepper; add a small tablespoonful of sifted flour, dissolved in a httle
water; heat all through, and remove from the fire to become cool. When cooled
roll out some plain pie-crust quite thin, cut out in rounds as large as a saucer;
wet the edge with cold water, and put a large spoonful of the minced meat on
one-half of the round; fold the other half over, and pinch the edges well together,
then fry them in hot drippings or fat, a nice brown. They may also be cooked
in a moderate oven.

CHICKEN PUDDING.

Cut up two yoimg chickens into good- sized pieces; put them in a sauce-pan
with just enough water to cover them well. When boiled quite tender, season
with salt and pepper; let them simmer ten or fifteen minutes longer; then take
the chicken from the broth and remove all the large bones. Place the meat in
a well-buttered pudding-dish, season again, if necessary, adding a few bits of
butter. Pour over this the following batter:

Eight eggs beaten light and mixed with one quart of milk, three tablespoon-
fuls of melted butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and two large teaspoonf uls of baking
powder, added to enough sifted flour to make a batter Uke griddle-cakes.

Bake one hour in a moderate oven.

Make a gravy of the broth that remained from the cooking of the chicken,
adding a tablespoonful of flour, stirred into a third of a cup of melted butter; let
it bofl up, putting in more water, if necessary. Serve hot in a gravy boat, with
the pudding.

84 POULTRY AND GAME.

CHICKEN AND MACCARONI.

Boil a chicken until very tender, take out all the bones, and pick up the meat
quite fine. Boil half a pound of maccaroni until tender, first breaking it up to
pieces an inch long. Butter a deep pudding-dish, put on the bottom a layer of
the cooked maccaroni, then a layer of the minced chicken, bits of butter, pepper
and salt, then some of the chicken liquor, over this put another layer of macca-
roni, and so on, until the dish is filled. Pour a cup of cream over the whole,
and bake half an hour. Serve on a platter.

ROAST DUCK. (Tame.)

Pick, draw, dean thoroughly, and wipe dry. Cut the neck dose to the back,
beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, tie the wings and l^s securely, and
stuff with the following:

Three pints bread-crumbs, six ounces butter, or part butter and salt pork,
two chopped onions and one teaspoonful each of sage, black pepper and salt.
Do not stuff very full, and sew up the openings firmly to keep the flavor in and
the fat out. If not fat enoughs it should be larded with salt pork, or tie a slice
upon the breast. Place in a baking-pan, with a little water, and baste frequently
with salt and water— some add onion, and some vinegar; txun often, so that the
sides and back may all be nicely browned. When nearly done, baste with
butter and a Uttle flour. These directions will apply to tame geese as well as
ducks. Young ducks should roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and full-
grown ones for an hour or more, with frequent basting. Some prefer them
underdone and served very hot; but, as a rule, thorough cooking will prove more
palatable. Make a gravy out of the neck and gizzards by putting them in a
quart of cold water, that must be reduced to a pint by boiling. The giblets,
when done, may be chopped fine and added to the juice. The preferred season-
ings are one table-spoonful of Madeira or sherry, a blade of mace, one small
onion, and a Uttle cayenne pepper; strain through a hair sieve; pour a little over
the ducks and serve the remainder in a boat. Served with jellies or any tart
sauce.

BRAISED DUCKS.

Prepare a pair of fine young ducks, the same as for roasting, place them in a
stew-pan together with two or three slices of bacon, a carrot, an onion stuck
with two cloves, and a little thyme and parsley. Season with pepper, and cover
the whole with a broth, adding to the broth a gill of white wine. Place the pan

POULTRY AND GAME. 85

over a gentle fire and allow the ducks to sunnier until done, basting them fre-
quently. When done remove them from the pan, and place them where they
win keep hot. A tiunip should then be cut up and fried in some butter. When
nicely browned, drain the pieces and cook them until tender in the liquor in
which the ducks were braised. Now strain and thicken the gravy, and after
dishing up the ducks, pour it over them, garnishing with the pieces of turnip.

— Palmer House y Cliicago.

STEWED DUCK.

Prepare them by cutting them up the same as chicken for fricassee. Lay
two or three very thin slices of salt pork upon the bottom of a stew-pan; lay the
pieces of duck upon the pork. Let them stew slowly for an hour, closely cov-
ered. Then season with salt and pepper, half a teaspoonful of powdered sage,
or some green sage minced fine; one chopped onion. Stew another half hour
until the duck is tender. Stir up a large tablespoonf ul of brown flour in a Uttle
water and add it to the stew. Let it boil up, and serve all together in one dish,

accompanied with green peas.

— Palmer House, Chicago.

DUCK PIE.

Cut all the meat from cold roast ducks; put the bones and stufling into cold
water; cover them and let boil; put the meat into a deep dish; pour on enough of
the stock made from the bones to moisten; cover with pastry slit in the centre
with a knife, and bake a light brown.

WARMED UP DUCK.

A nice dish for breakfast, and very relishing, can be made from the remains
of a roast of duck. Cut the meat from the bones, pick out all the little tidbits
in the recesses, lay them in a frying-pan, and cover with water and the cold
gravy left from the roast; add a piece of butter; let all boil up once and if not
quite thick enough, stir in a Uttle dissolved flour. Serve hot.

ROAST WILD DUCK.

Wild duck should not be dressed too soon after being killed. If the weather
is cold it will be better for being kept several days. Bake in a hot oven, letting
it remain for five or ten minutes without basting to keep in the gravy, then
baste frequently with butter and water. If over-done it loses flavor, 30 to 40
minutes in the right kind of an oven being sufficient. Serve on a very hot dish,
and send to table as hot as possible with a cut lemon and the following sauce:

86 POULTRY AND GAME.

Put in a tiny sauce-pan a tablespoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and

mushroom catsup, a httle salt and cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a

lemon. Mix well, make it hot, remove from the fire, and stir in a teaspoonful

of made mustard. Pour into a hot gravy boat.

— Oalifomia Style, Lick Bouse.

WILD DUCKS.

Most wild ducks are apt to have the flavor of fish, and when in the hands of
inexperienced cooks are sometimes unpalatable on this account. Before roasting
them, parboil them with a small peeled carrot put within each duck. This
absorbs the unpleasant taste. An onion will have the same effect, but unless you
use onions in the stufBng, the carrot is preferable. Boast the same as tame
duck. Or put into the duck a whole onion peeled, plenty of salt and pepper and
a glass of claret, bake in a hot oven 20 minutes. Serve hot with the gravy it
yields in cooking and a dish of currant jeUy.

CANVAS-BACK DUCK.

The epicurean taste declares that this special kind of bird requires no spices

or flavors to make it perfect, as the meat pai*takes of the flavor of the food

that the bird feeds upon, being mostly wild celery; and the delicious flavor is

best preserved when roasted quickly with a hot fire. After dressing the duck

in the usual way, by plucking, singing, drawing, wipe it with a wet towel, truss

the head under the wing; place it in a dripping-pan, put it in the oven, basting

often, and roast it half an hour. It is generally preferred a httle underdone.

Place it when done on a hot dish, season well with salt and pepper, pour over it

the gravy it has yielded in baking and serve it immediately while hot.

— Delmonico.

ROAST PIGEONS.

Pigeons lose their flavor by being kept more than a day after they are killed.
They may be prepared and roasted or broiled the same as chickens; they will
require from twenty to thirty minutes cooking. Make a gravy of the giblets or
not, season it with pepper and salt, and add a Uttle floxu* and butter.

STEWED PIGEONS.

Clean and stuff with onion dressing, thyme, etc., — do not sew up; take five
or more slices of corned pork, let it fry a while in a pot so that the fat comes out
and it begins to brown a httle; then lay the pigeons all around in the fat, leaving
the pork still in; add hot water enough to partially cover them; cover tightly
and boil an hour or so until tender; then turn off some of the Uquid, and keep

FOULTR Y AND GAME, 5 ^

turning them so they will brown nicely; then heat and add the Uquor poured
oflf ; add extra thyme, pepper, and keep turning until the pigeons and gravy are
nicely browned. Thicken with a Uttle flour, and serve with the gravy poiured
over them; garnish with parsley.

PIGEON PIE.

Take half a dozen pigeons; stuff each one with a dressing the same as for
turkey; loosen the joints with a knife, but do not separate them. Put them in
a stew-pan with water enough to cover them, let them cook until nearly tender,
then season them with salt and pepper and butter. Thicken the gravy with
flour, remove and cool. Butter a pudding dish, line the sides with a rich crust.
Have ready some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Put in a layer of egg and birds
and gravy until the dish is full. Cover with a crust and bake,

BROILED PIGEONS OR SQUABS.

SpUt them down the back and broil the same as chicken; seasoning well with
salt, pepper and plenty of butter. Broil slices of salt pork, very thin; place a
slice over each bird and serve.

SQUAB POT-PIE.

Cut into dice three ounces of salt pork; divide six wild squabs into pieces, at
the joints; remove the skin. Cut up four potatoes into small squares, and pre-
pare a dozen small dough balls.

Put into a yellow, deep baking-dish the pork, potatoes and squabs, and then

the balls of dough; season with salt, white pepper, a dash of mace or nutmeg;

add hot water enough to cover the ingredients, cover with a " short '* pie-crust

and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour.

— Pdlmer House, Chicago.

WOODCOCK, ROASTED.

Skin the head and neck of the bird, pluck the feathers, and truss it by bring-
ing the beak of the bird under the wing, and fastening the pinion to the thigh;
twist the legs at the knuckles and press the feet upon the thigh. Put a piece of
bread under each bird to catch the drippings, baste with butter, dredge with
flour, and roast fifteen or twenty minutes with a sharp fire. When done, cut
the bread in diamond shape, each piece large enough to stand one bird upon,
place them aslant on your dish, and serve with gravy enough to moisten the
bread; serve some in the dish and some in the tureen; garnish with shoes of
lemon. Roast from twenty to twenty-five minutes.

88 POULTRY AND GAME.

SNIPE.

Snipe are similar to woodcock, and may be served in the same manner; they
will, require less time to roast.

REED BIRDS.

Pick and draw them very carefully, salt and dredge with flour, and roast
with a quick fire ten or fifteen minutes. Serve on toast with butter and pepper.
You can put in each one an oyster dipped in butter and then in bread-crumbs
before roasting. They are also very nice broiled.

ROAST QUAIL.
Rinse well and steam over boiling water until tender, then dredge with flour,
and smother in butter; season with salt and pepper and roast inside the stove;
thicken the gravy; serve with green grape jelly, and garnish with parsley.

TO ROAST PARTRIDGES, PHEASANTS, QUAILS OR GROUSE.

Carefully cut out aU the shot, wash thoroughly but quickly, using soda in the
water; rinse again, and dry with a clean cloth. Stuff them and sew them up.
Skewer the legs and wings to the body, larder the breast with very thin slices of
fat salt pork, place them in the oven, and baste with butter and water before
taking up, having seasoned them with salt and pepper; or you can leave out the
pork and use only butter, or cook them without stuffing. Make a gravy of the
drippings thickened with browned flour. Boil up and serve in a boat.

These are all very fine broiled, first spUtting down the back, placing on the
gridiron the inside down, cover with a baking tin, and broil slowly at first.
Serve with cream gravy.

GAME PIE.

Clean well, inside and out, a dozen small birds, quail, snipe, woodcock, etc.,
and split them in half; put them in a sauce-pan with about two quarts of water;
when it boils, skim off all scum that rises; then add salt and pepper, a bunch dt
minced parsley, one onion chopped fine, and three whole cloves. Cut up half a
poimd of salt pork into dice, and let all boil until tender, using care that there
be enough water to cover the birds. Tliicken this with two tablespoonfuls of
browned flour and let it boil up. Stir in a piece of butter as large as an egg;
remove from the fire and let it cool. Have ready a pint of potatoes cut as small
as dice, and a rich crust made. Line the sides of a buttered pudding-dish with
the crust; lay in the birds, then some of the potatoes, then birds and so on, until
the dish is full. Pour over the gravy, put on the top crust, with a slit cut in the

POULTRY AND GAME. 89

centre, and bake. The top can be ornamented with pastry leaves m a wreath
about the edge, with any fancy design placed in the centre across the sUt.

— Rockaway Beach.

SNOW BIRDS.

One dozen thoroughly cleaned birds; stuff each with an oyster, put them into
a yellow dish, and add two ounces of boiled salt pork and three raw potatoes cut
into slices; add a pint of oyster liquor, an oimce of butter; salt and pepper; cover
the dish with a crust and bake in a moderate oven.

SQUIRREL.

They are cooked similar to rabbits, are excellent when broiled or made into
a stew, and, in fact, are very good in all the different styles of cooking similar to
rabbit.

There are many species common to this coimtry; among them the black, red,
gray and fox. Oophers and chipmxmks may also be classed as another but
smaller variety

ROAST HARE OR RABBIT.

A very close relationship exists between the hare and the rabbit, the chief
difference being in the smaller size and shorter legs and ears of the latter. The
manner of dressing and preparing each for the table is, therefore, pretty nearly
the same. To prepare them for roasting, first skin, wash well in cold water and
rinse thoroughly in lukewarm water. K a httle musty from being emptied
before they were hung up, and afterward neglected, 111b the insides Math vin^ar
and afterward remove all taint of the acid by a thorough washing in lukewarm
water. After being well wiped with a soft cloth put in a dressing as usual, sew
the animal up, truss it, and roast for a half or three-quarters of an hour, until
well browned, basting it constantly with butter and dredging with floiu*, just
before taking up.

To make a gravy, after the rabbits are roasted, pour nearly aU the fat out of
the pan, but do not pour the bottom or brown part of the drippings; put the pan
over the fire, stir into it a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and stir until the flour
browns. Then stir in a pint of boiling water. Season the gravy with salt and
pepper; let it boil for a moment. Send hot to the table in a tureen with the hot
rabbits. Serve with currant jelly.

FRICASSEE RABBIT.

Clean two young rabbits, cut into joints, and soak in salt and water half an
hour. Put into a sauce-i)an with a pint of cold water, a bunch of sweet herbs,

90 POULTRY AND GAME.

an onion finely minced, a pinch of mace, half a nutmeg, a pinch of pepper and
half a pound of salt pork cut in small thin slices. Cover and stew \mtil tender.
Take out the rabbits and set in a dish where they will keep warm. Add to the
gravy a cup of cream (or milk), two well-beaten eggs, stirred in a Httle at a time,
a tablespoonf ul of butter, and a thickening made of a tablespoonf ul of flour
and a little milk. Boil up once; remove the sauce-pan from the fire, squeeze in
the juice of a lemon, stirring all the while, and pour over the rabbits. Do not
cook the head or neck.

FRIED RABBIT.

After the rabbit has been thoroughly cleaned and washed, put it into boiling
water, and let it boil ten minutes; drain it, and when cold, cut it into joints, dip
into beaten egg, and then in fine bread-crumbs; season with salt and pepper.
When all are ready, fry them in butter and sweet lard, mixed over a moderate
fire until brown on both sides. Take them out, thicken the gravy with a spoon-
ful of flour, turn in a cup of milk or cream; let all boil up, and turn over the
rabbits. Serve hot with onion sauce. (See Sauces.) Garnish with sliced lemon.

RABBIT PIE.

This pie can be. made the same as '^Game Pie," exceptiiog you scatter
through it four hard-boiled eggs cut in sUces. Cover with puff paste, cut a slit
in the middle, and bake one hour, laying paper over the top should it brown
too fast.

BROILED RABBITS.

After skinning and cleaning the rabbits, wipe them dry, spht them down the
back lengthwise, pound them flat, then wrap them in letter paper well buttered,
place them on a buttered gridiron, and broil over a clear, brisk fire, turning them
often. When sufiidently cooked, remove the papers, lay them on a very hot
platter, season with salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, turning them over and
over to soak up the butter. Cover and keep hot in a warming oven until served.

SALMI OF GAME.

This is a nice mode of serving the remains of roasted game, but when a
superlative salmi is desired, the birds must be scarcely more than half roasted
for it. In either case, carve them very neatly, and strip every particle of skin
and fat from the legs, wings and breasts; bruise the bodies well, and put them
with the skin and other trimmings into a very clean stew-pan. K for a simple
and inexpensive dinner, merely add to them two sliced onions, a bay-leaf, a small

POULTRY AND GAME. 91

l>lade of mace and a few peppercorns; then pour in a pint or more of good veal
gravy, or strong broth, and boil it briskly until reduced nearly half; strain the
gravy, pressing the bones well to obtain all the flavor; skim off the fat, add a
little cayenne and lemon juice, heat the game very gradually in it, but do not
on any account allow it to boil; place pieces of fried bread round a dish, arrange
the birds in good form in the centre, give the sauce a boil, and pour it on them.

ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.

To prepare a haunch of venison for roasting, wash it slightly in tepid water,

and dry it thoroughly by rubbing it with a clean, soft cloth. Lay over the fat

side a large sheet of thickly buttered paper, and next a paste of floin: and water

about three-quarters of an inch thick; cover this again with two or three sheets

of stout paper, secure the whole well with twine, and put down to roast, with a

little water, in the dripping-pan. Let the fire be clear and strong; baste the

paper immediately with butter or clarified drippings, and roast the joint from

three to four hours, according to its weight and quality. Doe venison will

require half an hour less time than buck venison. About twenty minutes before

the joint is done remove the paste and paper, baste the meat in every part with

butter, and dredge it very lightly with flour; let it take a pale brown color, and

serve hot with unflavored gravy made with a thickening, in a tureen and good

currant jelly. Venison is much better when the deer has been killed in the

autumn, when wild berries are plentiful, and it has had abundant opportunities

to fatten upon this and other fresh food.

— Windsor Hotel, Montreal.

BROILED VENISON STEAK.

Venison steaks should be broiled over a clear fire, turning often. It requires
more cooking than beef. When sufficiently done, season with salt and pepper,
pour over two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, melted with a piece of butter.
Serve hot on hot plates.

DeUcious steaks, con^esponding to the shape of mutton chops, are cut from
the loin.

BAKED SADDLE OF VENISON.

Wash the saddle carefully; see that no hairs are left dried on to the outside.
Use a saddle of venison of about ten pounds. Cut some salt pork in strips about
two inches long, and an eighth of an inch thick, with which lard the saddle
with two rows on each side. Li a large dripping-pan cut two carrots, one onion,
and some salt pork in thin slices; add two bay leaves, two cloves, foxu: kernels

92 POULTRY AND GAME.

of allspice, half a lemon, sliced, and season with salt and pepper; place the saddle*
of venison in the pan, with a quart of good stock, boiling hot, and a small piece
of butter, and let it boil about fifteen minutes on top of the stove; then put it in
a hot oven and bake, basting weU every five minutes, until it is medium rare, so
that the blood runs when cut; serve with jelly or a wine sauce. K the venison
is desired weU done, cook much longer, and use a cream sauce with it, or stir
cream into the venison gravy. (For cream sauce see Sauces.)

Venison should never be roasted unless very fat. The shoulder is a roasting
piece, and may be done without the paper or paste.

In ordering the saddle request the butcher to cut the ribs off pretty dose, as^
the only part that is of much account is the tenderloin and thick meat that lies
along the backbone up to the neck. The ribs which extend from this have very
little meat on them, but are always sold with the saddle. When neatly cut off'
they leave the saddle in a better shape, and the ribs can be put into your stock-
pot to boil for soup.

— Windsor Hotel, MotUreaL

VENISON PIE OR PASTRY.

The neck, breast and shoulder are the parts used for a venison pie or pastry;
Cut the meat into pieces (fat and lean together) and put the bones and trim-
mings into the stew-pan with pepper and salt, and water or veal broth enough
to cover it. Simmer it till you have drawn out a good gravy. Then strain it.

In the meantime make a good rich paste, and roll it rather thick. Cover the-,
bottom and sides of a deep dish with one sheet of it, and put in your meat,,
having seasoned it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace. Pour in the gravy
which you have prepared from the trimmings, and a glass of port wine. Lay-
on the top some bits of butter rolled in flour. Cover the pie with a thick hd of
paste and ornament it handsomely with leaves and flowers formed with a tin.
cutter. Bake two or more horn's according to the size. Just before it is done,
puU it forward in the oven, and brush it over with beaten egg; push it back and:

let it slightly brown.

— Windsor Hotel, MontreaL

VENISON HASHED.

Cut the meat in nice small slices, and put the trimmings and bones into a.
sauce-pan with barely water enough to cover them. Let them stew for an hour.
Then strain the liquid into a stew-pan; add to it some bits of butter, rolled in
flour, and whatever gravy was left of the venison the day before. Stir in some^
currant jelly, and give it a boil up. Then put in the meat, and keep it over the^

POULTRY AND GAME. 93

fire just long enough to warm it through; but do not allow it to boil, as it has
been once cooked already.

FRIED VENISON STEAK.

Cut a breast of venison into steaks; make a quarter of a pound of butter hot
in a pan; rub the steaks over with a mixture of a little salt and pepper; dip them
in wheat flour, or rolled crackers, and fry a rich brown; when both sides are
done, take them up on a dish, and put a tin cover over; dredge a heaping tea-
spoonful of flour into the butter in the pan, stir it with a spoon imtil it is brown,
without burning; put to it a small teacupful of boiling water, with a tablespoon-
ful of currant jelly dissolved into it; stir it for a few minutes, then strain it over
the meat, and serve. A glass of wine, with a tablespoonf ul of white sugar dis-
solved in it, may be used for the gravy, instead of the jelly and water. Venison
may be boiled, and served with boiled vegetables, pickled beets, etc. , and sauce.

In the selection of meat it is most essential that we imderstand how to choose
it; in beef it should be a smooth, fine grain, of a clear bright red color, the fat
white, and will feel tender when pinched with the fingers. Will also have
abundant kidney fat or suet. The most choice pieces for roast are the sirloin,
fore and middle ribs.

Veal, to be good, should have the flesh firm and dry, fine grained and of a
delicate pinkish color, and plenty of kidney fat; the joints stiflf.

Mutton is good when the flesh is a bright red, firm and juicy and a dose
grain, the fat firm and white.

Pork: if young, the lean will break on being pinched smooth when nipped
with the fingers, also the skin will break and dent; if the rind is rough and hard
it is old.

In roasting meat, allow from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound, which
will vary according to the thickness of the roast. A great deal of the success in
roasting depends on the heat and goodness of the fire; if put into a cool oven it
loses its juices, and the result is a tough, tasteless roast; whereas, if the oven is
of the proper heat, it immediately sears up the pores of the meat and the juices
are retained.

The oven should be the hottest when the meat is put into it, in order to
quickly crisp the surface and close the pores of the meat, thereby confining its
natural juices. If the oven is too hot to hold the hand in for only a moment,
then the oven is right to receive the meat. The roast should first be washed in
pure water, then wiped dry with a clean dry cloth, placed in a baking-pan,
without any seasoning; some pieces of suet or cold drippings laid under it, but
no water should be put into the pan, for this would have a tendency to soften the
outside of the meat. The water can never get so hot as the hot fat upon the
surface of the meat, and the generating of the steam prevents its crispness, so
desirable in a roast.

MEATS. 95

It should be frequently basted with its own drippings which flow from the meat
when partly cooked and well seasoned. Lamb, veal and pork should be cooked
rather slower than beef, with a more moderate fire, covering the fat with a piece
of paper, and thoroughly cooked till the flesh parts from the bone; and nicely
browned, without being burned. An onion sliced and put on top of a roast
while cooking, especially roast of pork, gives a nice flavor. Remove the onion
before serving.

Larding meats is drawing ribbons of fat pork through the upper surface of
the meat, leaving both ends protruding. This is accompUshed by the use of a
larding -needle, which may be prociu^d at house-furnishing stores.

Boiling or stewing meat, if fresh, should be put into boiling water, closely
covered, and boiled slowly^ allowing twenty minutes to each pound, and when
partly cooked, or when it begins to get tender, salted,adding spices and vegetables.

Salt meats should be covered with cold water, and require thirty minutes very
slow boiling, from the time the water boils, for each pound; if it is very salt,
pour off the first water, and put it in another of boiling water, or it may be
soaked one night in cold water. After meat commences to boil, the pot should
never stop simmering and always be replenished from the boiling tea-kettle.

Frying may be done in two ways: one method, which is most generally used,
is by putting one ounce or more (as the case requires) of beef drippings, lard or
butter, into a frying-pan, and when at the boiling pointy laying in the meat,
cooking both sides a nice brown. The other method is to completely immerse
the article to be cooked in suflBcient hx)t lard to cover it, similar to frying
doughnuts.

Broiled meats should be placed over clear, red coals, free from smoke, giving
out a good heat, but not too brisk or the meat will be hardened and scorched;
but if the fire is dead, the gravy will escape, and drop upon the coals, creating a
blaze, which will blacken and smoke the meat. Steaks and chops should be
turned often, in order that every part should be evenly done— never sticking a
fork into the lean part, as that lets the juices escape; it should be put into the
outer skin or fat. When the meat is sufficiently broiled, it should be laid on a hot
dish and seasoned. The best pieces for steak are the porter-house, sirloin, and
rump.

THAWING FROZEN MEAT, Etc,

If meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, or any other article of food, when found
frozen, is thawed by putting it into warm tvater or placing it before the fire, it
will most certainly spoil by that process, and be rendered unfit to eat. The only

96 MEATS.

way to thaw these things is by immersing them in cold water. This should be
done as soon as they are brought in from market, that they may have time to
be well thawed before they are cooked. If meat that has been frozen is to be
boiled, put it on in cold water. If to be roasted, begin by setting it at a distance
from the fire; for if it should not chance to be thoroughly thawed all through to
the centre, placing it at first too near the fire will cause it to spoil. If it is
expedient to thaw the meat or poultry the night before cooking, lay it in cold
water early in the evening, and change the water at bed-time. If foimd crusted
with ice in the morning, remove the ice, and put the meat in fresh cold water,
letting it lie in it till wanted for cooking.

Potatoes are injured by being frozen. Other vegetables are not the worse for
it, provided they are always thawed in cold water.

TO KEEP MEAT FROM FLIES-

Put in sacks, with enough straw around it so the flies cannot reach through.

Three-fourths of a yard of yard- wide muslin is the right size for the sack. Put

a little straw in the bottom, then put in the ham and lay straw in all aroimd it;

tie it tightly, and hang it in a cool, dry place. Be sure the straw is all around the

meat, so the flies cannot reach through to deposit the eggs. (The sacking must

be done early in the season before the fly appears.) Muslin lets the air in and is

much better than paper. Thin muslin is as good as thick, and will last for years

if washed when laid away when emptied.

— National Stockman.

ROAST BEEF.

One very essential point in roasting beef is to have the oven weU heated
when the beef is first put in; this causes the pores to dose up quickly, and pre-
vents the escape of the juices.

Take a rib piece or loin roast of seven or eight pounds. Wipe it thoroughly
all over with a clean wet towel. Lay it in a dripping-pan, and baste it well with
butter or suet fat. Set it in the oven. Baste it frequently with its own drip-
pings, which will make it brown and tender. When partly done, season with
salt and pepper, as it hardens any meat to salt it when raw, and draws out its
juices, then dredge with sifted flour to give it a frothy appearance. It will take
a roast of this size about two hours time to be properly done, leaving the inside
a little rare or red — ^half an hour less would make the inside quite rare. Remove
the beef to a heated dish, set where it will keep hot; then skim the drippings
from all fat, add a tablespoonful of sifted flour, a Uttle pepper and a teacupful
of boiling water. Boil up once and serve hot in a gravy boat.

MEATS. 97

Some prefer the clear gravy without the thickening. Serve with mustard or
grated horse-radish and vinegar.

YORKSHIRE PUDDING.

This is a very nice accompaniment to a roast of beef; the ingredients are, one
pint of milk, four eggs, white and yolks beaten separately, one teaspoonful
of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted through two cups of
flour. It should be mixed very smooth, about the consistency of cream. Regu-
late your time when you put in your roast, so that it wiU be done half an hour
or forty minutes before dishing up. Take it from the oven, set it where it will
keep hot. In the meantime have this pudding prepared. Take two common
biscuit tins, dip some of the drippings from the dripping-pan into these tins, pour
half of the pudding into each, set them into the hot oven, and keep them in until
the dinner is dished up; take these puddings out at the last moment and send to
the table hot. This I consider much better than the old way of baking the
pudding under the meat

BEEFSTEAK, No. i.

The first consideration in broiling is to have a clear, glowing bed of coals.
The steak should be about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and should be
pounded only in extreme cases, i.e., when it is cut too thick and is " stringy. " Lay
it on a buttered gridiron, tmning it often, as it begins to drip, attempting nothing
else while cooking it. Have everything else ready for the table; the potatoes
and vegetables dished and in the warming closet. Do not season it until it is
done, which will be in about ten to twelve minutes. Eemove it to a warm
platter, pepper and salt it on both sides and spread a Uberal lump of butter over
it. Serve at once while hot. No definite rule can be given as to the time of
cooking steak, individual tastes differ so widely in regard to it, some only Uking
it when well done, others so rare that the blood runs out of it. The best pieces
for broiling are the porter-house and sirloin.

BEEFSTEAK. No. 2.

Take a smooth, thick-bottomed frying-pan, scald it out with hot water, and
wipe it dry; set it on the stove or range, and when very hot, rub it over the
bottom with a rag dipped in butter; then place your steak or chops in it, turn
often until cooked through, take up on a warm platter, and season both sides
with salt, pepper and butter. Serve hot.

Many prefer this manner of cooking steak rather than broiling or frying in
a quantity of grease.

98 MEATS.

BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS.

Prepare the steak in the usual way. Have ready in a frying pan a dozen:
onions cut in slices and fried brown in a little beef drippings or butter. Dish
your steak, and lay the onions thickly over the top. Cover and let stand five
minutes, then send to the table hot.

BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTERS.

Broil the steak the usual way. Put one quart of oysters with very Httle of

the liquor into a stew-pan upon the fire; when it comes to a boil, take off the

scum that may rise, stir in three ounces of butter mixed with a tablespoonf ul

of sifted flour, let it boil one minute until it thickens, pour it over the steak.

Serve hot.

— PaJace Hotel, San Francisco

TO FRY BEEFSTEAKS.

Beefsteak for frying should be cut much thinner than for broiling. Take
from the ribs or sirloin and remove the bone. Put some butter or nice beef dripping
into a frying-pan, and set it over the fire, and when it has boiled and become hot,,
lay in the steaks; when cooked quite enough, season with salt and pepper, turn
and brown on both sides. Steaks when fried should be thoroughly done. Have
ready a hot dish, and when they are done, take out the steaks and lay them on
it, with another dish cover the top to keep them hot. The gravy in the pan can
be turned over the steaks, first adding a few drops of boiling water, or a gravy
to be served in a separate dish made by putting a large tablespoonful of flour
into the hot gravy left in the pan, after taking up the steaks. Stir it smooth^
then poiu: in a pint of cream or sweet rich milk, salt and pepper, let it boil up
once until it thickens, pour hot into a gravy dish, and send to the table with the
steaks.

POT ROAST. (Old Style.)

This is an old-fashioned dish, often cooked in our grandmothers' time. Take
a piece of fresh beef weighing about five or six pounds. It must not be too fat.
Wash it and put it into a pot with barely suflicient water to cover it. Set it
over a slow fire, and after it has stewed an hour salt and pepper it Then stew
it slowly until tender, adding a httle onion if Uked. Do not replenish the water
at the last, but let all nearly boil away. When tender all through take the
meat from the pot, and pour the gravy in a bowl. Put a large lump of butter
in the bottom of the pot, then dredge the piece of meat with flour, and return it

ME A TS. go.

to the pot to brown, turning it often to prevent its burning. Take the gravy
that you have poured from the meat into the bowl, and skim off all the fat; pom:
this gravy in with the meat and stir in a large spoonful of flour; wet with a Uttle
water; let it boil up ten or fifteen minutes and pour into a gravy dish. Serve
both hot, the meat on a platter. Some are very fond of this way of cooking a.
piece of beef which has been previously placed in spiced pickle for two or three^
days.

SPICED BEEF. (Excellent.)

For a round of beef weighing twenty or twenty-four pounds, take one quarter
of a pound of saltpetre, one quarter of a poimd of coarse brown sugar, two
pounds of salt, one ounce of cloves, one oimce of allspice, and half an ounce of
mace; pulverize these materials, mix them well together, and with them rub
the beef thoroughly on every part; let the beef lie for eight or ten days in the
pickle thus made, fuming and rubbing it every day; then tie it around with a
broad tape, to keep it in shape; make a coarse paste of flom* and water, lay a
httle suet finely chopped over and under the beef, inclose the beef entirely in
the paste, and bake it six hours. When you take the beef from the oven,
remove the paste, but do not remove the tape until you are ready to send it to
the table. If you wish to eat the beef cold, keep it well covered that it may
retain its moisture.

BEEF A LA MODE.

Mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of ginger, one of
mace, one of cinnamon, and two of cloves. Rub this mixture into ten pounds
of the upper part of a round of beef. Let this beef stand in this state over night.
In the morning, make a dressing or stuffing of a pint of fine bread-crumbs, half
a pound of fat salt pork cut in dice, a teaspoonful of ground thyme or summer
savory, two teaspoonfuls sage, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one of nutmeg, a
little cloves, an onion minced fine, moisten with a little milk or water. Stuff
this mixture into the place from whence you took out the bone. With a long
skewer fasten the two ends of the beef together, so that its form will be circular,
and bind it around with tape, to prevent the skewers giving away. Make
incisions in the beef with a sharp knife; fill these incisions very closely with the:
stuffing, and dredge the whole with flour.

Put it into a dripping-pan and pour over it a pint of hot water; turn a large*
pan over it to keep in the steam, and roast slowly from three to four hours,,
allowing a quarter of an hour to each pound of meat. If the meat should be^

lOO MEATS.

"tough, it may be stewed first in a pot with water enough to cover it, until tender,
-and then put into a dripping-pan and browned in the oven.

If the meat is to be eaten hot, skim off the fat from the gravy, into which,
after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two ^ggs. If onions are
^sUked you may omit them and substitute minced oysters.

TENDERLOIN OF BEEF.

To serve tenderloin as directed below, the whole piece must be extracted
before the hind quarter of the animal is cut out. This must be particularly
noted, because not commonly practised, the tenderloin being usually left attached
to the roasting pieces, in order to furnish a tidbit for a few. To dress it whole,
proceed as follows: Washing the piece well, put it in an oven; add about a pint
of water, and chop up a good handful of each of the following vegetables as an
ingredient of the dish, viz.^ Irish potatoes, carrots, turnips, and a large bunch
of celery. They must be washed, peeled, emd chopped up raw, then added to
"the meat; blended with the juice, they form and flavor the gravy. Let the
vrhole slowly simmer, and when nearly done, add a teaspoonful of pounded
allspice. To give a richness to the gravy, put in a tablespoonful of butter. If
the gravy should look too greasy, skim off some of the melted suet. Boil also a
lean piece of beef, which, when perfectly done, chop fine, flavoring with a very
:smaLl quantity of onion, besides pepper and salt to the taste. Make into small
halls, wet them on the outside with eggs, roll in grated cracker or fine bread-
•crumbs. Fry these force-meat balls a light brown. When serving the dish, put
iJiese around the tenderloin, and pour over the whole the rich gravy. This dish
ds a very handsome one, and, altogether, fit for an epicurean psdate. A sumptu-
ous dish.

STEWED STEAK WITH OYSTERS.

Two poimds of rump steak, one pint of oysters, one tablespoonful of lemon
juice, three of butter, one of flour, salt, pepper, one cupful of water. Wash the
oysters in the water, and drain into a stew-pan. Put this hquor on to heat. As
soon as it comes to a boil, skim and set back. Put the butter in a frying-pan,
^nd when hot, put in a steak. Cook ten minutes. Take up the steak, and stir
the flour into the butter remaining in the pan. Stir until a dark brown. Add
the oyster liquor, and boil one minute. Season with salt and pepper. Put back
the steak, cover the pan, and simmer half an hour or imtil the steak seems
tender, then add the oysters and lemon juice. Boil one minute. Serve on a hot
-dish with points of toast for a garnish.

MEATS. lOI

SMOTHERED BEEFSTEAK.

Take thin slices of steak from the upper part of the round or one large thin
steak. Lay the meat out smoothly and wipe it dry. Prepare a dressing, using a
cupful of fine bread-crumbs, half a teaspoonful of salt, some pepper, a table-
spoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful of sage, the same of powdered siunmer
savory, and enough milk to moisten it all into a stiff mixture. Spread it over
the meat, roll it up carefully, and tie with a string, securing the ends well.
Now fry a few thin slices of salt pork in the bottom of a kettle or sauce-pan,
and into the fat that has fried out of this pork, place this roll or rolls of beef,
and brown it on all sides, turning it until a rich color all over, then add half a
pint of water, and stew until tender. If the flavor of onion is liked, a slice may
"be chopped fine and added to the dressing. When cooked sufficiently, take out
the meat, thicken the gravy, and turn over it. To be carved cutting crosswise,
in slices, through beef and stuffing.

BEEFSTEAK ROLLS.

This mode is similar to the above recipe, but many might prefer it.

Prepare a good dressing, such as you like for turkey or duck; take a round
steak, poimd it, but not very hard, spread the dressing over it, sprinkle in a little
salt, pepper, and a few bits of butter, lap over the ends, roll the steak up tightly
and tie closely; spread two great spoonfuls of butter over the steak after rolUng
it up, then wash with a well-beaten egg, put water in the bake-pan, lay in the
steak so as not to touch the water, and bake as you would a duck, basting often.
A half hour in a brisk oven wiU bake. Make a brown gravy, and send to the
table hot.

TO COLLAR A FLANK OF BEEF.

Procure a well-corned flank of beef, — say six pounds. Wash it, and remove
the inner and outer skin with the gristle. Prepare a seasoning of one teaspoon-
ful each of sage, parsley, thyme, pepper and cloves. Lay your meat upon a
board and spread this mixture over the inside. EoU the beef up tight, fasten it
with small skewers, put a cloth over it, bandage the cloth with tape, put the
beef into the stew-pot, cover it with water to the depth of an inch, boil gently
six hours; take it out of the water, place it on a board without undoing it; lay a
board on top of the beef, put a fifty pound weight upon this board, and let it
remain twenty-four hours. Take off the bandage, garnish with green pickles
and curled parsley, and serve.

I02 MEATS.

DRIED BEEF.

Buy the best of beef, or that part which will be the most lean and tender.
The tender part of the round is a very good piece. For every twenty pounds of
beef use one pint of salt, one teaspoonf ul of saltpetre, and a quarter of a pound
of brown sugar. Mix them well together, and rub the beef well with one-third
of the mixture for three successive days. Let it he in the Uquor it makes for
six days, then hang up to dry.

A large crock or jar is a good vessel to prepare the meat in before drying it.

BEEF CORNED OR SALTED. (Red.)

Cut up a quarter of beef. For each hundred weight take half a peck of
coarse salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, the same weight of saleratus, and
a quart of molasses, or two poimds of coarse brown sugar. Mace, cloves and
allspice, may be added for spiced beef.

Strew some of the salt in the bottom of a pickle-tub or barrel; then put in a
layer of meat, strew this with salt, then add another layer of meat, and salt and
meat alternately, until all is used. Let it remain one night. Dissolve the
saleratus and saltpetre in a little warm water, and put it to the molasses or
sugar; then put it over the meat, add water enough to cover the meat, lay a
board on it to keep it under the brine. The meat is fit for use after ten days.
This receipt is for winter beef. Rather more salt may be used in warm weather.

Towards spring take the brine from the meat, make it boiling hot, skim it
clear, and when it is cooled, return it to the meat.

Beef tongues and smoking pieces are fine pickled in this brine. Beef liver
put in this brine for ten days, ^d then wiped dry and smoked, is very fine. Cut
it in shoes, and fry or broil it. The brisket of beef, after being corned, may be
smoked, and is very good for boiling.

Lean pieces of beef, cut properly from the hind quarter, are the proper pieces
for being smoked. There may be some fine pieces cut from the fore-quarter.

After the beef has been in brine ten days or more, wipe it dry, and hang it in
a chimney where wood is burned, or make a smothered fire of sawdust or chips,
and keep it smoking for ten days; then rub fine black pepper over every part to
keep the flies from it, and hang it in a dry^ darky cool place. After a week it is
fit for use. A strong, coarse brown paper, folded around the beef, and fastened
with paste, keeps it nicely.

Tongues are smoked in the same manner. Hang them by a string put

MEATS. 103

through the root end. Spiced brine for smoked beef or tongues will be gener-
ally liked.

ROAST BEEF PIE WITH POTATO CRUST.

When you have a cold roast of beef, cut off as much as will half fill a baking-
dish suited to the size of your family; put this sliced beef into a stew-pan with
any gravy that you may have also saved, a lump of butter, a bit of sUced onion,
and a seasoning of pepper and salt, with enough water to make plenty of gravy;
thicken it, too, by dredging in a tablespoonful of flour; cover it up on the fire,
where it may stew gently, but not be in danger of burning. Meanwhile there
must be boiled a suflSicient quantity of potatoes to fill up your baking-dish, after
the stewed meat has been transferred to it. The potatoes must be boiled done,
mashed smooth, and beaten up with milk and butter, as if they were to be
served alone, and placed in a thick layer on top of the meat. Brush it over with
^g& place the dish in an oven, and let it remain there long enough to be brown.
There should be a goodly quantity of gravy left with the beef, that the dish be
not dry and tasteless. Serve with it tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce or any
other kind that you prefer. A good, plain dish.

ROAST BEEF PIE.

Out up roast beef, or beef steak left from a previous meal, into thin slices,
lay some of the shoes into a deep dish which you have hned on the sides with
rich biscuit dough, rolled very thin, (say a quarter of an inch thick); now
sprinkle over this layer a httle pepper and salt; put in a small bit of butter, a
few shoes of cold potatoes, a little of the cold gravy, if you have any left from
the roast. Make another layer of beef, another layer of seasoning, and so on,
until the dish is filled; cover the whole with paste, leaving a sUt in the centre,
and bake half an hour.

BEEF STEAK PIE.

Cut up rump or flank steak into strips two inches long and about an inch
wide. Stew them with the bone in just enough water to cover them until partly
cooked; have half a dozen of cold boiled potatoes sUced. Line a baking-dish
with pie paste, put in a layer of the meat with salt, pepper, and a Uttle of thinly
sliced onion, then one of the sUced potatoes, with bits of butter dotted over
them. Then the steak, alternated with layers of potato, imtil the dish is full.
Add the gravy or broth, having first thickened it with brown flour. Cover
with a top crust, making a sUt in the middle; brush a Uttle beaten egg over it,
and bake until quite. brown.

I04 MEATS.

FRIZZLED BEEF-

Shave oflE very thin slices of smoked or dried beef, put them in a frying-pan^
cover with cold water, set it on the back of the range or stove, and let it come
to a very slow heat, allowing it time to swell out to its natural size, but not to
boil. Stir it up, then drain off the water. Melt one ounce of sweet butter in
the frying-pan, and add the wafers of beef. When they begin to frizzle or turn
up, break over them three eggs; stir imtil the eggs are cooked; add a little white
pepper, and serve on slices of buttered toast.

FLANK STEAK.

This is cut from the boneless part of the flank and is secreted between an out-
side and inside layer of creamy fat. There are two ways for broiling it. One is
to slice it diagonally across the grain; the other is to broil it whole. In either
case brush butter over it and proceed as in broiling other steaks. It is considered
by butchers the finest steak, which they frequently reserve for themselves.

TO BOIL CORNED BEEF.

The aitch-bone and the brisket are considered the best pieces for boiling. If
you buy them in the market already corned, they will be fit to put over the
fire without a previous soaking in water. If you com them in the brine in
which you keep your beef through the winter, they must be soaked in cold
water over night. Put the beef into a pot, cover with sufficient cold water,
place over a brisk fire, let it come to a boil in half an hour; just before boiling
remove all the scum from the pot, place the pot on the back of the fire, let it boil
very slowly until quite tender.

A piece weighing eight poimds requires two and a half hours' boiling. If
you do not wish to eat it hot^ let it remain in the pot after you take it from the
fire, until nearly cold, then lay it in a colander to drain, lay a cloth over it to
retain its fresh appearance; serve with horse-radish and pickles.

If vegetables are to accompany this, making it the old-fashioned ^'boiled
dinner," about three-quarters of an hour before dishing up skim the hquOr free
from fat and turn part of it out into another kettle, into which put a cabbage
carefully prei)ared, cutting it into four quarters; also half a dozen peeled
medium-sized white turnips, cut into halves; scrape four carrots and four
parsnips each cut into four pieces. Into the kettle with the meat, about half an
hour before serving, pour on more water from the boiling tea-kettle, and into-
this put peeled mediiun-sized potatoes. This dinner should also be accompanied

MEATS. 105:

by boiled beet0, sliced hot, cooked separate from the rest, with vinegar over
them. Cooking the cabbage separately from the meat prevents the meat from .
having the flavor of cabbage when cold. The carrots, parsnips and tmnips will
boil in about an hour. A piece of salt pork was usually boiled with a "New
England boiled dinner."

SPICED BEEF RELISH.

Take two pounds of raw, tender beefsteak, chop it veryfine^ put into it salt,
pepper and a Uttle sage, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add two rolled
crackers made very fine, also two well-beaten eggs. Make it up into the shape
of a roU and bake it; baste with butter and water before baking. Cut in slices
when cold.

FRIED BEEF LIVER.

Cut it in rather thin sUces, say a quarter of an inch thick, pour over it boiling -
water, which closes the pores of the meat, makes it impervious to the fat,
and at the same time seals up the rich juice of the meat. It may be rolled in
floin: or bread-crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in egg and fried in .
hot fat mixed with one-third butter.

First have your beef nicely pickled: let it stay in pickle a week; then take
the thin flanky pieces, such as will not make a handsome dish of themselves;
put on a large potful, and let them boil until perfectly done; then pull to pieces,
and season just as you do souse, with pepper, salt and allspice; only put it in a .
coarse cloth and press down upon it some very heavy weight.

The advantage of this recipe is that it makes a most acceptable, presentable
dish out of a part of the beef that otherwise might be wasted.

FRENCH STEW.

Grease the bottom of an iron pot, and place in it three or f oin: pounds of*
beef; be very careful that it does not bimi, and turn it until it is nicely browned.
Set a muflSn ring xmder the beef to prevent its sticking. Add a few sliced
carrots, one or two sliced onions, and a cupful of hot water; keep covered, and
stew slowly until the vegetables are done. Add pepper and salt. If you wish
more gravy, add hot water, and thicken with flour. Serve on a dish with the
vegetables.

TO POT BEEF.

The round is the best piece for potting, and you may use both the upper and
under part. Take ten pounds of beef, remove all the fat, cut the lean into-

:io6 MEATS.

'<csquaxe pieces, two inches thick. Mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of
pepper, one of cloves, one of mace, one of cinnamon, one of allspice, one of
thyme, and one of sweet basil. Put a layer of the pieces of beef into an earthen
pot, sprinkle some of this spice mixture over this layer, add a piece of fat salt
pork, cut as thin as possible, sprinkle a little of the spice mixture over the pork,
make another layer of the beef with spices and pork, and so on, until the pot is
'filled. Pour over the whole three tablesjHwnfuls of Tarragon vinegar, or, if you
prefer it, half a pint of Madeira wine; cover the pot with a paste made of flour
^and water, so that no steam can escape. Put the pot into an oven, moderately
heated, and let it stand there eight hours; then set it away to use when wanted.

Beef cooked in this manner will keep good a fortnight in moderate weather.

It is an excellent relish for breakfast, and may be eaten either warm or cold.
When eaten warm, serve with shoes of lemon.

STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF

Put the part that has the hard fat into a stew-pot, with a small quantity of
•water; let it boil up, and skim it thoroughly; then add carrots, tiurdps, onions,
-celery and a few pepper-corns. Stew till extremely tender; then take out all the
flat bones and remove all the fat from the soup. Either serve that and the meat
in a tureen, or the soup alone, and the meat on a dish, garnished with some
vegetables. The following sauce is much admired served with the beef: Take
half a pint of the soup, and mix it with a spoonful of catsup, a teaspoonful of
made mustard, a httle floin*, a bit of butter and salt; boil all together a few
minutes, then pour it round the meat.

DRIED BEEF, WITH CREAM.

Shave your beef very flne. Put it into a suitable dish on the back of the
^stove; cover with cold water and give it time to soak out to its original size
before being dried. When it is quite soft and the water has become hot (it must
not boil), take it off, tmn off the water, pour on a cup of cream; if you do not
liave it use milk and butter, a pinch of pepper; let it come to a boil, thicken
with a tablespoonful of flour, wet up in a httle milk. Serve on dipped toast or
not, just as one fancies. A nice breakfast dish.

BEEF CROQUETTES. No. i.

Chop flne one cup of cold, cooked, lean beef, half a cup of fat, half a cup of
icold boiled or fried ham ; cold pork will do if you have not the ham. Also mince
mp a slice of onion. Season all with a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of

MEATS. 107

I)epper, and a teaspoonful of powdered sage or pareley, if liked. Heat together
with half a cup of stock oi- milk; when cool, add a beaten egg. Form the mix-
ture into balls, slightly flattened, roll in egg and bread-crumbs, or flour and ^z%.
Fry in hot lard or beef drippings. Serve on a platter and garnish with sprigs of
parsley. Almost any cold meats can be used instead of beef.

BEEF CROQUETTES. No. 2.

Take cold roast or corned beef. Put it into a wooden bowl and chop it fine.
Mix with it about twice the quantity of hot mashed potatoes weD seasoned with
butter and salt. Beat up an egg and work it into the potato and meat, then
form the mixture into httle cakes the size of fish balls. Flatten them a little,
roU in flom* or egg and cracker crumbs, fry in butter and lard mixed, browning
on both sides. Seive piping hot.

MEAT AND POTATO CROQUETTES.

Put in a stew-pan an ounce of butter and a slice of onion minced fine; when this
simmers, add a level tablespoonful of sifted fiour; stir the mixture until it
becomes smooth and frothy; then add half of a cupful of milk, some seasoning
of salt and pepper; let all boil, stirring it all the while. Now add a cupful of cold
meat chopped fine and a cupful of cold or hot mashed potato. Mix all thor-
oughly and spread on a plate to cool. When it is cool enough, shape it with
your hands into balls or rolls. Dip them in beaten egg and roll in cracker or
bread-crumbs. Drop them into hot lard and fiy about two minutes a delicate
brown; take them out with a skimmer and drain them on a piece of brown
paper. Serve immediately while hot. These are very nice.

Cold rice or hominy may be used in place of the potato; or a cupful of cold
fish minced fine in place of the meat.

COLD ROAST, WARMED.

Cut from the remains of a cold roast the lean meat from the bones into

smaU, thin slices. Put over the fire a frying-pan containing a spoonful of butter

or drippings. Cut up a quarter of an onion and fry it brown, then remove the

onion, add the meat gravy left from the day before, and if not thick enough, add

a little flour; salt and pepper.

Turn the pieces of meat into this, and let them simmer a few minutes. Serve
hot.

COLD ROAST, WARMED. No. 2.

Cold rare roast beef may be made as good as when freshly cooked by slicing,
seasoning with salt, pepper and bits of butter; put it in a plate or pan with a

lo8 MEATS.

spoonful or two of water, covering closely, and set in the oven until hot, but no
longer. Cold steak may be shaved very fine with a knife and used the same way.

Or, if the meat is in small pieces, cover them with buttered letter paper,
twist each end tightly, and boil them on the gridiron, sprinkling them with
finely chopped herbs.

Still another nice way of using cold meats is to mince the lean portions very
fine, and add to a batter made of one pint of milk, one cup of flour and three
eggs. Fry like fritters, and serve with drawn butter or sauce.

COLD MEAT AND POTATO, BAKED.

Put in a frying-pan a round tablespoonful of cold butter; when it becomes
hot, stir into it a teaspoonf ul of chopped onion and a tablespoonful of flour, stir-
ring it constantly until it is smooth and frothy; then add two-thirds of a cupful
of cold milk or water. Season this with salt and pepper and aUow it to come to
a boil; then add a cupful of cold meat finely chopped and cleared from bone and
skin; let this all heat thoroughly; then turn it into a shallow dish well buttered.
Spread hot or cold mashed potatoes over the top, and cook for fifteen or twenty
minutes in a moderate hot oven.

Cold hominy or rice may be xised in place of mashed potatoes, and is equally
asgood.

BEEF HASH. No. x.

Chop rather finely cold roast beef or pieces of beef steak, also chop twice as
much cold boiled potatoes. Put over the fire a stew-pan or frying-pan, in which
put a piece of butter as large as required to season it well, add pepper and salt,
moisten with beef gravy if you have it, if not, with hot water; cover and let it
steam and heat through thoroughly, stirring occasionally, so that the ingredients
be evenly distributed, and to keep the hash from sticking to the bottom of the
pan. When done it should not be at all watery, nor yet dry, but have sufficient
adhesiveness to stand well on a dish, or buttered toast. Many Uke the fiavor of
onion; if so, fry two or three sUces in the butter before adding the hash*
Corned beef makes excellent hash.

BEEP HASH. No. 2.

Chop cold roast beef, or pieces of beefsteak; fry half an onion in a piece of

butter; when the onion is brown, add the chopped beef; season with a Uttle salt

and pepper; moisten with the beef gravy, if you have any, if not, with sufficient

water and a little butter; cook long enough to be hot, but no longer, as much

cooking toughens the meat. An excellent breakfast dish.

^ ^ —Prof. Blot.

MEATS. 109

Some prefer to let a crust form on the bottom and turn the hash brown side
uppermost. Served with poached eggs on top,

HAMBURGER STEAK.

Take a poimd of raw flank or romid steak, without any fat, bone or stringy
pieces. Chop it xmtil a perfect mince; it cannot be chopped too fine. Also chop
a small onion quite fine, and mix well with the meat. Season with salt and
pepper; make into cakes as large as a biscuit, but quite flat, or into one large flat
cake a little less than half an inch thick. Have ready a frying-pan, with
butter and lard mixed; when boiling liot, put in the steak and fry brown.
Oamish with celery top around the edge of the platter and two or three slices of
lemon on the top of the meat.

A brown gravy made from the grease the steak was fried in, and poured over
the meat, enriches it.

TO ROAST BEEF HEART.

Wash it carefully and open it sufficiently to remove the ventricles, then soak

it in cold water until the blood is discharged; wipe it dry and stuff it nicely with.

dressing, as for turkey; roast it about an hour and a half. Serve it with the^

gravy, which should be thickened with some of the stuflSng, and a glass of wine*

It is very nice hashed. Served with currant jelly.

— Palmer House, Chicago.

STEWED BEEF KIDNEY.

Cut the kidney into slices, season highly with pepper and salt, fry it a light
brown, take out the slices, then poiu* a little warm water into the pan, dredge in
some flour, put in slices of kidney again; let them stew very gently; add some
parsley if liked. Sheep's kidneys may be split open, broiled over a clear fire, and
served with a piece of butter placed on each half.

BEEF'S HEART, STEWED.

After washing the heart thoroughly, cut it up into squares half an inch long;
put them into a sauce-pan with water enough to cover them. If any scum
rises, skim it off. Now take out the meat, strain the liquor, and put back the
meat, also add a sliced onion, some parsley, a head of celery chopped fine, pepper
and salt, and a piece, of butter. Stew imtil the meat is very tender. Stir up a
tablespoonful of brown fiour with a small quantity of water, and thicken the
whole. Boil up and serve.

no MEATS.

BOILED BEEF TONGUE,

Wash a fresh tongue and just cover it with water in the pot; put in a pint of
salt and a small red pepper; add more water as it evaporates, so as to keep the
tongue nearly covered until done — ^when it can be easily pierced with a fork; take
it out, and if wanted soon, take off the skin and set it away to cool. If wanted
for future use, do not peel until it is required. A cupful of salt will do for three
tongues, if you have that number to boil; but do not fail to keep water enough
in the pot to keep them covered while boiling. If salt tongues are used, soak
them over night, of course omitting the salt when boiling. Or, after peeling a
tongue, place it in a sauce-pan with one cup of water, half a cup vinegar, four
tablespoonfuls sugar, and cook imtil the liquor is evaporated.

SPICED BEEF TONGUE.

Rub into each tongue a mixture made of half a pound of brown sugar, a piece
of saltpetre the size of a pea, and a tablespoonful of groimd cloves; put it in a
brine made of three-quarters of a pound of salt to two quarts of water and
keep covered. Pickle two weeks, then wash well and dry with a cloth; roll out
a thin paste made of flour and water, smear it all over the tongue and place in a
pan to bake slowly; baste weU with lard and hot water; when done scrape oflE
the paste and skin.

TO BOIL TRIPE.

Wash it well in warm water, and trim it nicely, taking off aU the fat. Cut
into small pieces, and put it on to boil five hours before dinner in water enough
to cover it very well. After it has boiled four hours, pour off the water, season
the tripe with pepper and salt, and put it into a pot with milk and water mixed
in equal quantities, fioil it an hour in the milk and water.

Boil in a sauce-pan ten or a dozen onions. When they are quite soft, drain
them in a colander, and mash them. Wipe out your sauce-pan and put them on
again, with a bit of butter rolled in flour and a wineglass of cream or milk. Let
them boil up, and add them to the tripe just before you send it to table. Eat it
with pepper, vinegar and mustard.

It is best to give tripe its first and longest boiling the day before it is wanted.

TO FRY TRIPE,

Boil the tripe the day before till it is quite tender, which it wiU not be in less
than four or five hours. Then cover it and set it away. Next day cut it into
long sUps, and dip each piece into beaten yolk of egg, and afterwards roll them

MEATS. Ill

in grated bread-crumbs. Have ready ia a frying-pan over the fire some good
beef -dripping. When it is boiling hot put in the tripe, and fry it about ten
minutes, till of a light brown.

You may serve it with onion sauce.

Boiled tripe that has been left from the dinner of the preceding day may be
fried in this manner.

FRICASSEED TRIPE.

Cut a pound of tripe in narrow strips, put a small cup of water or milk to it,
add a bit of butter the size of an egg, dredge in a large teaspoonf ul of flour, or
work it with the butter; season with pepper and salt, let it simmer gently for
half an hour, serve hot. A bunch of parsley cut small and put with it is an
improvement.

Some put in oysters five minutes before dishing up.

TRIPE LYONNAISE.

Cut up half a pound of cold boiled tripe into neat squares. Put two oimces
of butter and a tablespoonful of chopped onion in a frying-pan and fry to a deli-
cate brown; add to the tripe a teaspoonf ul of chopped parsley and a little strong
vinegar, salt, and cayenne; stir the pan to prevent burning. Cover the bottom
of a platter with tomato-sauce, add the contents of the pan and serve.

TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPINGS.

Drippings accumulated from different cooked meats of beef or veal can be
clarified by putting it into a basin and sUcing into it a raw potato, allowing it to
boil long enough for the potato to brown, which causes all impurities to dis-
appear. Eemove from the fire, and when cool drain it off from the sediment
that settles at the bottom. Turn it into basins or small jars and set it in a cool
place for future use. When mixed with an equal amount of butter it answers
the same purpose as clear butter for frying and basting any meats excepting
game and poultry.

Mutton drippings impart an unpleasant flavor to anything cooked outside of
i^s kind.

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.

Prepare it the same as any roast, leaving in the kidney, around which put
considerable salt. Make a dressing the same as for fowls; unroll the loin, put
the stuflBbig well around the kidney, fold and secure with several coils of white
cotton twine wound around in all directions; place in a dripping-pan with the

112 MEATS,

thick side down, and put in a rather hot oven, graduated after it commences to
roast to moderate; in half an hour add a little hot water to the pan, and baste
often; in another half hour turn over the roast, and when about done dredge
lightly with flour and baste with melted butter. Before serving, carefully
remove the twine. A roast of four to five pounds will bake in about two hours.
For a gravy, skim off some of the fat if there is too much in the drippings;
dredge in some flour, stir imtil brown, add some hot water if necessary, boil a
few minutes, stir in such sweet herbs as fancied, and put in a gravy boat. Serve
with green peas and lemon jelly. Is very nice sliced cold for limch, and Wor-
cestershire or Chili sauce forms a flne relish.

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.

Select a nice flUet, take out the bone, fill up the space with stufSng, and also
put a good layer imder the fat. Truss it of a good shape by drawing the fat
round, and tie it up with tape. Cook it rather moderately at first, and baste
with butter. It should have careful attention and frequent basting, that the fat
may not biun. Boast from three to four hours, according to the size. After it
is dished, pour melted butter over it; serve with ham or bacon, and fresh
cucumbers, if in season. Veal, like all other meat, shpuld be well washed in
cold water before cooking and wiped thoroughly dry with a clean cloth. Cold
fillet of veal is very good stewed with tomatoes and an onion or two.

In roasting veal, care must be taken that it is not at first placed in too hot
an oven; the fat of a loin, one of the most delicate joints of veal, should be
covered with greased paper; a fillet, also, should have on the caul until nearly
done enough.

BOILED FILLET OF VEAL.

Choose a small, delicate fillet; prepare as for roasting, or stuff it with an
oyster force-meat; after having washed it thoroughly, cover it with water and
let it boil very gently three and a half or four hours, keeping it weU skimmed.
Send it to the table with a rich white sauce, or, if stuffed with oysters, a tureen
of oyster sauce. Gramish with stewed celery and slices of bacon. A boiled
tongue should be served with it. ^

VEAL PUDDING.

Cut about two poimds of lean veal into small coUops a quarter of an inch in
thickness; put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a very dean frying-pan to
melt; then lay in the veal and a few slices of bacon, a small sprig of thyme, and
a seasoning of pepper and salt; place the pan over a slow fire for about ten

MEATS. 113

minutes, then add two or three spoonfuls of warm water. Just boil it up, and
then let it stand to cool. Line a pudding-dish with a good suet crust, lay in the
veal and bacon, pour the gravy over it; roll out a piece of paste to form a lid,
place it over, press it close with the thumb, tie the basin in a pudding cloth, and
put it into a sauce-pan of boiling water, keeping continually boiling until done,
or about one hour.

FRIED VEAL CUTLETS.

Put into a frying-pan two or three tabJespoonfuls of lard or beef drippings.
When boiling hot lay in the cutlets, weU seasoned with salt and pepper, and
dredged with flour. Brown nicely on both sides, then remove the meat, and if
you have more grease than is necessary for the gravy, put it aside for fiuther
use. Eeserve a tablespoonful or more, and rub into it a tablespoonf ul of flour,
with the back of the spoon, until it is a smooth, rich brown color; then add
gradually a cup of cold water and season with pepper and salt. When the gravy
is boiled up well return the meat to the pan and gravy. Cover it closely and
allow it to stew gently on the back of the range for fifteen minutes. This
softens the meat, and with this gravy it makes a nice breakfast dish.

Another mode is to simply fry the cutlets, and afterwards turning off some
of the grease they were fried in and then adding to that left in the pan a few
drops of hot water, turning the whole over the fried chops.

FRIED VEAL CHOPS. (Plain.)

Sprinkle over them salt and pepper, then dip them in beaten egg and cracker-
crumbs, and fry in drippings, or hot lard and butter mixed. If you wish a gravy
with them, add a tablespoonful of flour to the gravy they were fried in and turn
in cream or milk; season to taste with salt and pepper. Boil up and serve hot
with the gravy in a separate dish. This dish is very fine accompanied with a
few sound fresh tomatoes, sliced and fried in the same grease the cutlets were,
and aU dished on the same platter.

VEAL COLLOPS.

Cut veal from the leg or other lean part into pieces the size of an oyster.
Season with pepper, salt and a Uttle mace; rub some over each piece; dip in egg,
then into cracker-crumbs, and fry. They both look and taste like oysters.

VEAL OLIVES.

Cut up a slice of a fillet of veal, about half an inch thick, into squares of
three inches. Mix up a little salt pork, chopped with bread-crumbs, one onion,

114 MEATS.

a little pepper, salt, sweet marjoram, and one egg well beaten; put this mixture
upon the pieces of veal, fastening the four comers together with little bird
skewers; lay them in a pan with a sufficient veal gravy or Ught stock to cover
the bottom of the pan, dredge with flour, and set in a hot oven. When browned
on top, put a small bit of butter on each, and let them remain until quite tender,
which will take twenty minutes. Serve with horse-radish.

VEAL CHEESE.

Prepare equal quantities of boiled sliced veal and smoked tongue. Pound the
slices separately in a mortar, moistening with butter as you proceed; then pack it
in a jar or pail, mixing it in alternate layers; first, the tongue and then the veal,
so that when cut it will look variegated. Press it down hard and pour melted
butter over the top. Keep it well covered and in a dry place. Nice for sand-
wiches, or shced cold for lunch.

VEAL CROQUETTES.

Mince a coffee cup of cold veal in a chopping bowl, adding a little cold ham,
and two or three slices of onion, a pinch of mace, powdered parsley and pepper,
Bome salt. Let a pint of milk or cream come to the boiling point, then add a
tablespoonful of cold butter, then the above mixture. Beat up two eggs and
mix with a teaspoonful of corn-starch or flour, and add to the rest; cook it aU
about ten minutes, stirring with care. Bemove from the fire, and spread it on
a platter, roll it into balls, when cooled fiatten each; dip them in egg and bread-
crmiibs, and fry in a wire basket, dipped in hot lard.

BROILED VEAL CUTLETS. (Fine.)

Two or three pounds of veal cutlets, egg and bread-crumbs, two tablespoon-
fuls of minced savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little grated nutmeg.

Cut the cutlets about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, flatten them, and
brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread-crumbs and
minced herbs, season with pepper and salt, and fold each cutlet in a piece of white
letter paper well buttered; twist the ends, and broil over a clear fibre; when done
remove the paper. Cooked this way, they retain aU the flavor.

VEAL FOT-FIE.

Procure a nice breast or brisket of veal, well jointed, put the pieces into the
pot with one quart of water to every five pounds of meat; put the pot over a
slow fire; just before it comes to a boil, skim it well and pour in a teacupful of
cold water; then turn over the meat in order that all the scum may rise, remove

MEATS. 115

all the scum, boil quite hard, season with pepper and salt to your taste, always
remembering that the crust will take up i)art of the seasoning; when this is
done cut off your cixist in pieces of equal size, but do not roll or mould them;
lay them on top of the meat, so as to cover it; put the hd on the pot closely, let
the whole boil slowly one hour. If the lid does not fit the pot closely, wrap a
cloth around it, in order that no steam shall escape; and by no means allow the
pot to stop hailing.

The crust for pot-pie should be raised with yeast* To three pints of flour add
two ounces of butter, a Uttle salt, and wet with milk sufficient to make a soft
dough; knead it well and set it away to rise; when quite Ught, mould and knead
it again, and let it stand, in winter, one hour, in summer, one half hour, when
it will be ready to cut.

In summer you had better add one-half a teaspoonful of soda when you
knead it the second time, or you may wet it with water, and add another bit of
butter.

VEAL PIE.

Cut the veal into rather small pieces or sUces, put it in a stew-pan, with hot
water to cover it; add to it a tablespoonful of salt, and set it over the fire; take
off the scum as it rises; when the meat is tender turn it into a dish to cool; take
out all the small bones, butter a tin or earthen basin or pudding-pan, line it with
pie paste, lay some of the parboiled meat in to half fill it; put bits of butter in
the size of a hickory nut all over the meat; shake pepper over, dredge wheat flour
over, until it looks white, then fill it nearly to the top with some of the water in
which the meat was boiled; roll a cover for the top of the crust, puff-paste it,
giving it two or three turns, and roll it to nearly half an inch thickness; cut a
sht in the centre, and make several small incisions on either side of it, put the
crust on, trim the edges neatly with a knife; bake one hour in a quick oven. A
breast of veal will make two two- quart basin pies; half a pound of nice corned
pork, cut in thin slices, and parboiled with the meat, will make it very nice, and
very Uttle, if any, butter, will be required for the pie; when pork is used, no
other salt will be necessary. Many are fond of thin shces of sweet ham cooked
with the veal for pie.

VEAL STEW.

Cut up two or three poimds of veal into pieces three inches long and one
thick. Wash it, put it in your stew-pan with two quarts of water, let it boil
skim it well, and, when all the scum is removed, add pepper and salt to your

ii6

MEATS.

taste^ and a small piece of butter; pare and cut in halves twelve small Irish
potatoes, put them into the stew-pan; when it boils, have ready a batter made
with two eggs, two spoonfuls of cream or milk, a little salt and flour enough to
make it a little thicker than for pan-cakes ; drop this into the stew, a spoonful at
a time, while it is boiling; when all is in, cover the pan closely so that no steam
can escape; let it boil twenty minutes, and serve in a deep dish.

VEAL LOAF,

Three pounds of raw veal, chopped very fine, butter the size of an egg, three
eggs, three tablespoonfuls of cream or milk; if milk iise a small piece of butter;
mix the eggs and cream together; mix with the veal four pounded crackers, one
teaspoonf ul of black pepper, one lai^e tablespoonf ul salt, one large tablespoonftd
of sage; mix well together and form into a loaf. Bake two and one-half hours,
basting with butter and water while baking. Serve cut in thin slices.

VEAL FOR LUNCH.

Butter a good-sized bowl, and Une it with thin slices of hard-boiled eggs; have
veal and ham both in very thin slices; place in the bowl a layer of veal, with
pepper and salt, then a layer of ham, omitting the salt, then a layer of veal, and
so on, alternating with veal and ham, until the bowl is filled; make a paste of
flour and water, as stiff as it can be rolled out; cover the contents of the bowl
with the paste, and over this tie a double cotton cloth; put the bowl into a sauce-
pan, or other vessel, with water just up to the rim of the bowl, and boil three
hours; then take it from the fire, remove the cloth and paste, and let it stand
until the next day, when it may be turned out and served in very thin slices.
An excellent lunch in travelling.

VEAL PATTIES.

Out portions of the neck or breast of veal into small pieces, and, with a Uttle
salt pork cut fine, stew gently for ten or fifteen minutes; season with pepper and
salt, and a small piece of celery chopped coarsely, also of the yellow top, picked
(not chopped) up; stir in a paste made of a tablespoonftd of flour the yolk of one
«gg, and millr to form a thin batter; let all come to a boil, and it is ready for the
patties. Make the patties of a light, flaky crust, a^for tarts, cut round, the
size of a small sauce-plate; the centre of each, for about three inches, cut half
way through, to be raised and serve as a cover. Put a spoonful of the stew in
each crust, lay on the top, and serve. Stewed oysters or lamb may be used in
place of veal.

MEATS. 117

BRAISED VEAL.

Take a piece of the shoulder weighing about five pounds. Have the bone
Temoved and tie up the meat to make it firm. Put a piece of butter the size of
half an egg, together with a few shavings of onion, into a kettle or stone crock
-and let it get hot. Salt and pepper the veal and put it into the kettle, cover it
iightly and put it over a medium fire until the meat is brown on both sides,
"turning it occasionally. Then set the kettle back on the stove, where it will
•sinmier slowly for about two hours and a half. Before setting the meat back on
the stove, see if the juice of the meat together with the butter do not make gravy
enough, and if not, put in about two tablespoonf uls of hot water. When the
.gravy is cold it will be like jelly. It can be served hot with the hot meat, or cold
with the cold meat.

BAKED CALF'S HEAD.

Boil a calf's head (after having cleaned it) until tender, then spht it in two,
and keep the best half; (bone it if you hke); cut the meat from the other in uni-
form pieces; the size of an oyster; put bits of butter, the size of a nutmeg, all
over the best half of the head; sprinkle pepper over it, and dredge on flour until
it looks white, then set it on a trivet or muffin rings in a dripping-pan; put a
cup of water into the pan, and set it in a hot oven; turn it that it may brown
evenly; baste once or twice. Whilst this is doing, dip the prepared pieces of
the head in wheat flour or batter, and fry in hot lard or beef dripping a delicate
brown; season with pepper and salt and sUces of lemon, if hked. When the
roast is done put it on a hot dish, lay the fried pieces around it, and cover it with
A tin cover; put the gravy from the dripping-pan into the pan in which the
pieces were fried, with the slices of lemon, and a tablespoonful of browned flour,
and, if necessary, a little hot water. Let it boil up once, and strain it into a
.gravy boat, and serve with the meat.

CALF'S HEAD CHEESE.

Boil a calf's head in water enough to cover it, until the meat leaves the bones;
then take it with a skimmer into a wooden bowl or tray; take from it every
particle of bone; chop it small; season with pepper and salt, a heaping table-
spoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper will be sufficient; if hked, add a
tablespoonful of finely chopped sweet herbs; lay in a cloth in a colander, put the
minced meat into it, then fold the cloth closely over it, lay a plate over, and on
it a gentle weight. When cold it may be sliced thin for supper or sandwiches.
Spread each slice with made mustard.

Il8 MEATS.

BRAIN CUTLETS.

Well wash the hrains and soak them in cold water till white. Parboil them
till tender in a small sauce-pan for about a quarter of an hour; then thoroughly
drain them, and place them on a board. Divide them into small pieces with a
knife. Dip each piece into flom*, and then roll them in egg and bread-cnmibs,
and fry them in butter or well-clarified dripping. Serve very hot with gravy.
Another way of doing brains is to prepare them as above, and then stew them
gently in rich stock, like stewed sweetbreads. They are also nice plainly boiled^
and served with parsley and butter sauce.

CALF'S HEAD BOILED.

Put the head into boiling water and let it remain about five minutes; take it
out, hold it by the ear, and with the back of the knife scrape off the hair, (should
it not come off easily, dip the head again in boiUng water). When perfectly
clean, take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and i-emove the brain, which soak for
an hour in warm water. Put the head to soak in hot water a few minutes to
make it look white, and then have ready a stew-pan, into which lay the head;
cover it with cold water, and biing it gradually to boil. Remove the scum, and
add a little salt, which increases it and causes it to rise to the top. Simmer it
very gently from two and a half to three hoinrs, or imtil the bones will slip out
easily, and when nearly done, boil the brains fifteen or twenty minutes; skin and
chop them, (not too finely), and add a tablespoonf ul of minced parsley which has
been previously scalded; also a pinch of pepper, salt; then stir into this four
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, set it on the back of the range to keep it hot.
When the head is done, take it up, and drain very dry. Score the top and rub
it over with melted butter; dredge it with fiour, and set it in the oven to brown.

When you serve the head, have it accompanied with a gravy boat of melted
butter and minced parsley.

CALF'S LIVER AND BACON.

Slice the Uver a quarter of an inch thick; pour hot water over it, and let it
remain for a few minutes to clear it from blood; then dry it in a cloth. Take a
pound of bacon, or as much as you require, and cut the same number of thin
sUces as you have of hver; fry the bacon to a nice crisp; take it out and keep it
hot; then fry the Uver in the same pan, having first seasoned it with pepper and
salt and dredged in a little floiu*; lay it in the hot bacon fat and fry it a nice
brown. Serve it with a slice of bacon on the top of each slice of Uver.

MEATS. 119

K you wish a gravy with it, poiir off most of the fat from the frying-pan, put
in about two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of flour well rubbed in, add a cup
of water, salt and pepper, give it one boil and serve in a gravy boat.

Another way. — Cut the liver in nice thin slices, pour boiling water over it,
and let it stand about five minutes; then drain and put in a dripping-pan with
three or four thin sUces of salt pork or bacon; pepper and salt, and put in the
oven, letting it cook until thoroughly done, then serve with a cream or milk
gravy poured over it.

Calf's liver and bacon are very good broiled after cutting each in thin slices.
Season with butter, pepper and salt.

BOILED CALF'S FEET.

Two calf's feet, two slices of bacon, two ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls
of lemon juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, one onion, a bunch of savory
herbs, four cloves, one blade of mace, water, parsley and butter.

Procure two white calf's feet; bone them as far as the first joint, and put
them into warm water to soak for two hours. Then put the bacon, butter,
lemon- juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into a stew-pan; lay in the feet,
and pour in just sufficient water to cover the whole. Stew gently for about
three hours; take out the feet, dish them, and cover with parsley and butter.

The liquor they were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin
for use; it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, etc., etc. It will
take about three hours to cook.

SWEETBREADS.

There are two in a calf, which are considered delicacies. Select the largest.
The color should be clear and a shade darker than the fat. Before cooking in
any manner let them lie for half an hour in tepid water; then throw into hot
water to whiten and harden, after which draw off the outer casing, remove the
little pipes, and cut into thin slices. They should always be thoroughly cooked.

FRIED SWEETBREADS.

After preparing them as above they are put into hot fat and butter, and fried
the same as lamb chop, also broiled the same, first rolling them in egg and
cracker-crumbs.

BAKED SWEETBREADS.

Three sweetbreads, egg and bread-crumbs, oiled butter, three slices of toast,
brown gravy.

Choose large, white sweetbreads; put them into warm water to draw out the

I20 MEATS.

blood, and to improve their color; let them remain for rather more than one
hour; then put them into boiling water, and allow them to simmer for about ten
minutes, which renders them firm. Take them up, drain them, brush over the
egg,' sprinkle with bread-crumbs; dip them in egg again, and then into more
bread-crumbs. Drop on them a little oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into-
a moderately heated oven, and let them bake for nearly three-quarters of an hour.
Make three pieces of toast; place the sweetbreads on the toast, and pour rounds
but not over them, a good brown gravy.

FRICASSEED SWEETBREADS.

K they are imcooked, cut into thin slices, let them simmer in a rich gravy for
three-quarters of an hour, add a well-beaten egg, two tablespoonfuls of cream
and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; stir all together for a few minutes and
serve immediately.

^l^utton anb Xamb^

ROAST MUTTON.

The pieces mostly used for roasting are the hind quarter of the sheep, called
the loin and leg, the fore-quarter, the shoulder, also the chine or saddle, which is
the two loins together. Every part should be trimmed off that cannot be eaten;
then wash well and dry with a clean cloth; lay it in your dripping-pan and put
in a Uttle water to baste it with at first; then afterward with its own gravy.
Allow, in roasting, about twelve minutes to the pound; that is, if your fire is
strong, which it should be. It should not be salted at first, as that tends to
harden it, and draws out too much of the blood or juices; but salt soon after it
begins to roast well. If there is danger of its browning too fast, cover it with a
sheet of white paper. Baste it often, and about a quarter of an hour before you
think it will be done dredge the meat very lightly with flour and baste it with
butter. Skim the gravy well and thicken very sUghtly with brown flour. Serve
with currant jelly or other tart sauce.

BONED LEG OF MUTTON ROASTED.

Take the bone out of a small leg of mutton, without spoiling the skin if
possible, then cut off most of the fat. In the hole whence the bone was
taken, fill with a stuffing made the same as for fowls, adding to it part of an

MEATS. 121

onion finely minced. Sew the leg up underneath to prevent the dressing or
stufiing from falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly; put it in a roasting-
pan, turn in a cupful of hot water and place it in a moderately hot oven, bast-
ing it occasionally. When partly cooked season with salt and pepper. When
thoroughly cooked, remove and place the leg on a warm platter; skim the grease
from the top of the drippings, add a cup of water and thicken with a spoonful
of dissolved flour. Send the gravy to the table in a gravy dish, also a dish of
currant jelly.

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.

To prepare a leg of mutton for boiling, wash it clean, cut a small piece off the
shank bone, and trim the knuckle. Put it into a pot with water enough to cover
it, and boil gently from two to three hours, skimming well. Then take it from
the fire, and keeping the pot well covered, let it finish by remaining in the steam
for ten or fifteen minutes. Serve it up with a sauce-boat of melted butter, into
which a teacupful of capers or nasturtiums, have been stirred. If the broth is to
be used for soup, put in a little salt while boiling; if not, salt it well when partly
done, and boil the meat in a cloth.

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.

This recipe can be varied either by preparing the leg with a stuffing, placed in
the cavity after having the bone removed, or cooking it without. Having lined
the bottom of a thick iron kettle or stew-pan with a few thin slices of bacon, put
over the bacon four carrots, three onions, a bunch of savory herbs; then over
these place the leg of mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon,
then pour over half of a pint of water. Cover with a tight cover and stew very
gently for four hours, basting the leg occasionally with its own Uquor, and sea-
soning it with salt and pepper as soon as it begins to be tender. When cooked
strain the gravy, thicken with a spoonful of flour, (it should be quite brown),
pour some of it over the meat and send the remainder to the table in a tureen,
to be served with the mutton when carved. Garnish the dish around the leg
with potatoes cut in the shape of olives and fried a hght brown in butter.

LEG OF MUTTON A LA VENISON.

Remove all the rough fat from the mutton and lay it in a deep earthen dish;
rub into it thoroughly the following: One tablespoonful of salt, one each of
celery-salt, brown sugar, black pepper, English mustard, allspice, and some sweet
herbs, all powdered and mixed; after which poxu* over it slowly a teacup of good
vinegar, cover tightly, and set in a cool place four or five days, turning it and

122 MEATS.

basting often with the liquid each day. To cook, put in a kettle a quart of boil-
ing water, place over it an inverted shallow pan, and on it lay the meat just as
removed from the pickle; cover the kettle tightly and stew four hours. Do not
let the water touch the meat. Add a cup of hot water to the pickle remaining
and baste with it. When done, thicken the Hquid with flour and strain through
a fine sieve, to serve with the meat; also a relish of currant jelly, the same as for
venison.

This is a fine dish when the directions are faithfully followed.

STEAMED LEG OF MUTTON.

Wash and put the leg in a steamer and cook it until tender, then place in a
roasting pan, salt and dredge well with flour and set in a hot oven until nicely
browned; the water that remains in the bottom of the steamer may be used for
soup. Serve with currant jelly.

HASHED MUTTON.

Cut into small nieces the lean of some cold mutton that has been xmderdone,
and season it wich ^pper and salt. Take the bones and other trimmings, put
them into a sauce-pan with as much water as will cover them, and some sliced
onions, and let them stew till you have drawn from them a good gravy. Having
skimmed it well, strain the gravy into a stew-pan, and put the mutton into it.
Have ready-boiled some carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions. Slice them and
add to the meat and gravy. Set the pan on the fire and let it simmer till the
meat is warmed through, but do not allow it to boil, as it has been once cooked
already. Cover the bottom of a dish with slices of buttered toast. Lay the meat
and vegetables upon it, and pour over them the gravy.

Tomatoes will be found an improvement.

If green peas or lima beans are in season, you may boil them and put them
to the hashed mutton, leaving out the other vegetables, or serving them up
separately.

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS.
Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece of butter. Cut the chops from
a tenderloin of mutton, remove a portion of the fat, and trim them into a nice
shape; slightly beat and level them; place the gridiron over a bright, clear fire,
rub the bars with a little fat, and lay on the chops. While broiling frequently
turn them, and in about eight minutes they will be done. Season with pepper
and salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small piece of butter on each chop,
and serve very hot and expeditiously. Nice with tomato sauce poured over them.

MEATS.

123

FRIED MUTTON CHOPS. No. i.
Put into a frying-pan a tablespoonful of cold lard and butter mixed; have
some fine mutton chops without much fat; trim off the skin. Dip each in wheat
flour, or rolled cracker, and beaten egg, then lay them into the hot grease,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, fry on both sides a fine brown. When done, take
them up and place on a hot dish. If you wish a made gravy, turn off the super-
fluous grease, if any, stir into the hot gravy remaining a heaping spoonful of
flour, stirring it until smooth and free from lumps, then turn into that a cup of
cold water or milk; season with pepper and salt, let it boil up thick. You can
serve it in a separate dish or pour it over the chops. Tomato sauce is considered
fine, turned over a dish of hot fried or broiled chops.

FRIED MUTTON CHOPS. No. 2.

Prepare the chops by trimming off all extra fat and skin, season them with
salt and pepper; dip each chop in beaten egg, then in rolled cracker or bread-
crumbs; dip again in the egg and crumbs, and so on until they are weU coated
with the crumbs. Have ready a deep spider containing a poimd or more of lard,
hot enough to fry cruUers. Drop into this hot lard the chops, frying only a few
at one time, as too many cool the fat. Fry them brown, and serve up hot and
dry, on a warm platter.

MUTTON CUTLETS. (Baked).

Prepare them the same as for frying, lay them in a dripping pan with a very
little water at the bottom. Bake quickly, and baste often with butter and water.
Make a little brown gravy and turn over them when they are served.

BAKED MUTTON CHOPS AND POTATOES.
Wash and peel some good potatoes and cut them into slices the thickness of
a penny -piece. The quantity of potatoes must, of course, be decided according
to the number of persons to whom they have to be served; but it is a safe plan
to allow two, or even three, potatoes for each person. After the potatoes are
sliced, wash them in two or three waters, to thoroughly cleanse them; then
arrange them neatly (in layers) in a brown stone dish proper for baking purposes.
Sprinkle a little salt and pepper between each layer, and add a sufficient quantity
of cold water to prevent their burning. Place the dish in a very hot oven — on
the top shelf — so as to brown the potatoes in a few minutes. Have ready some
nice loin chops (say one for each person); trim off most of the fat; make them
into a neat round shape by putting a small skewer through each. When the

124 MEATS.

potatoes are niody browned, Temove the dish from the oven, and place the chops
on the top. Add a little more salt and pepper, and water if required, and return
the dish to a cooler part of the oven, where it may be allowed to remain until
sufficiently cooked, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour. When the
upper sides of the chops are a nice crisp brown, turn them over so as to brown
the other side also. If, in the cooking, the potatoes appear to be getting too dry,
a Uttle more water may be gently poured in at one comer of the dish, only care
must be taken to see that the water is hot this time— hot cold, as at first. The
dish in which the chops and potatoes are baked must be as neat-looking as possi-
ioiie, as it has to be sent to the table; turning the potatoes out would, of course,
spoil their appearance. Those who have never tasted this dish have no idea
how delightful it is. While the chops are baking the gravy drips from them
among the potatoes, rendering the whole most delicious.

MUTTONETTES.

Cut from a leg of mutton slices about half an inch thick. On each slice lay a
spoonful of stuffing made with bread-crumbs, beaten egg, butter, salt, pepper,
sage and summer savory. Boll up the slices, pinning with Uttle skewers or
small wooden toothpicks to keep the dressing in. Put a Uttle butter and water
in a baking-pan with the muttonettes, and cook in hot oven three-quarters of an
hour. Baste often, and when done thicken the gravy, pour over the meat»
garnish with parsley, and serve on hot platter.

IRISH STEW.

Time about two hours. Two and a half pounds of chops, eight potatoes, four
turnips, four smaU onions, nearly a quart of water. Take some chops from loin
of mutton, place them in stew-pan in alternate layers of sUced potatoes and
chops; add turnips and onions cut into pieces, pour in nearly a quart of cold
water; cover stew-pan closely, let it stew gently tiU vegetables are ready to mash
and the greater part of the gravy is absorbed; then pkice in a dish; serve it up hot.

MUTTON PUDDING,
line a two-quart pudding-basin with some beef suet paste; fill the Uning with
thick mutton cutlets, sUghtly trimmed, or, if preferred, with steaks cut from the
1^; season with pepper and salt, some parsley, a Uttle thyme and two sUces of
onion chopped fine, and between each layer of meat, put some sUces of potatoes.
When the pudding is filled, wet the edges of the paste around the top of the
basin, and cover with a piece of paste rolled out the size of the basin. Fasten
down the edge by bearing aU around with the thumb; and then with the thumb

MEATS. 125

and forefinger twist the edges of the paste over and over so as to give it a corded
appearance. This pudding can be set in a steamer and steamed, or boiled. The
tune required for cooking is about three hours. When done, turn it out care-
fully on a platter and serve with a rich gravy under it.
This is a very good recipe for cooking small birds.

SCRAMBLED MUTTON.

Two cups of chopped cold mutton, two tablespoonfuls of hot water, and a
piece of butter as large as an English walnut. When the meat is hot, break in
three eggs, and constantly stir until the eggs begin to stiffen. Season with
pepper and salt.

SCALLOPED MUTTON AND TOMATOES.
Over the bottom of an earthen baking-dish place a layer of bread-crumbs,
and over it alternate layers of cold roast mutton cut in thin slices, and tomatoes
peeled and sliced; season each with salt, pepper and bits of butter, as laid in.
The top layer should be of tomatoes, spread over with bread-crumbs. Bake
three-quarters of an hour, and serve immediately.

LAMB SWEETBREADS AND TOMATO SAUCE.

Lamb sweetbreads are not always procurable, but a stroll through the markets
occasionally reveals a small lot of them, which can invariably be had at a low
price, owing to their excellence being recognized by but few buyers. Wash them
well in salted water and parboil fifteen minutes; when cool, trim neatly and put
them in a pan with just butter enough to prevent their burning; toss them about
until a dehcate color; season with salt and pepper and serve, surrounded with
tomato sauce. See Sauces.

ROAST QUARTER OF LAMB.

Procure a nice hind-quarter, remove some of the fat that is aroimd the kidney,
skewer the lower joint up to the fillet, place it in a moderate oven, let it heat
through slowly, then dredge it with salt and flour; quicken the fire, put half a
pint of water into the dripping-pan, with iet teaspoonful of salt. With this liquor
baste the meat occasionally; serve with lettuce, green peas, and mint sauce.

A quarter of lamb weighing seven or eight pounds will require two hours to
roast.

A breast of lamb roasted is very sweet, and is considered by many as prefer-
able to hind-quarter. It i*equires nearly as long a time to roast as the quarter,
and should be served in the same manner.

Make the gravy from the drippings, thickened with flour.

1 26 MEATS.

The mint sauce is made as follows: Take fresh, joimg spearmint leaves
stripped from stems; wash and drain them or dry on a doth, chop very fine, put
in a gravy tureen, and to three tablespoonf uls of mint add two of finely pow-
dered cut-loaf sugar; mix, and let it stand a few minutes; then pour over it six
tablespoonfuls good dder or white-wine vinegar. The sauce should be made
some time before dinner, so that the flavor of the mint may be well extracted.

TO BROIL THE FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.

Take off the shoulder and lay it upon the gridiron with the breast; cut in two
parts, to facilitate its cooking; put a tin sheet on top of the meat, and a weight
upon that; turn the meat around frequently to prevent its burning; turn over
as soon as cooked on one side; renew the coals occasionally, that all parts may
cook alike; when done, season with butter, pepper, and salt,— exactly like beef-
steak. It takes some time to broil it well; but when done it will be found to be
equal to broiled chicken, the flavor being more delicate than when cooked other-
wise. Serve with cream sauce, made as follows: Heat a tablespoonful of butter
in a sauce-pan, add a teaspoonful of flour and stir until perfectly smooth; then
add, slowly stirring in, a cup of cold milk; let it boil up once, and season to taste
with salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of finely chopped fresh parsley. Serve
in a gravy boat, all hot.

LAMB STEW.

Cut up the lamb into small pieces (after removing aU the fat), say about two
inches square. Wash it well and put it over the fire, with just enough cold
water to cover it weU, and let it heat gradually. It should stew gently until it
is partly done; then add a few thih slices of salt pork, one or two onions sliced
up fine, some pepper and salt if needed, and two or three raw potatoes cut up
into inch pieces. Cover it closely and stew until the meat is tender. Drop in a
few made dumplings, made like short biscuit, cut out very small. Cook fifteen
minutes longer. Thicken the gravy with a httle flour moistened with milk.
Serve.

PRESSED LAMB.

The meat, either shoulder or leg, should be put to boil in the morning with
water just enough to cover it; when tender, season with salt and pepper, then
keep it over the fire until very tender and the juice nearly boiled out. Remove
it from the fire-place in a wooden chopping-bowl, season more if necessary,
chop it up like hash. Place it in a bread-pau, press out all the juice, and put it
in a cool place to harden. The pressing is generally done by placing a dish over
the meat and putting a flat-iron upon that. Nice cut up cold into thin slices, and

MEATS. 127

the broth left from the meat would make a nice soup served with it, adding
vegetables and spices.

CROQUETTES OF ODDS AND ENDS.

These are made of any scraps or bits of good food that happen to be left
from one or more meals, and in such small quantities that they cannot be
warmed up separately. As, for example, a couple of spoonfuls of frizzled beef
and cream, the lean meat of one mutton chop, one spoonful of minced beef, two
cold hard-boiled eggs, a little cold chopped potato, a little mashed potato, a
chick's leg, all the gristle and hard outside taken from the meat. These things
well chopped and seasoned, mixed with one raw egg, a httle flour and butter,
and boiling water; then made into round cakes, thick like fish-balls, and browned
well with butter in a frying-pan or on a griddle.

Scraps of hash, cold rice, boiled oatmeal left from breakfast, every kind of
fresh meat, bits of salt tongue, bacon, pork or ham, bits of poultry, and crumbs
of bread, may be used. They should be put together with care, so as not to have
them too dry to be palatable, or too moist to cook in shape. Most housekeepers
would be surprised at the result, making an addition to the breakfast or lunch
table. Serve on small squares of buttered toast, and with cold celery if in season.

Hbotft*

The best parts and those usually used for roasting are the loin, the leg, the
shoulder, the spare-rib and chine. The hams, shoulders and middlings are
usually salted, pickled and smoked. Pork requires more thorough cooking than
most meats; if the least underdone it is unwholesome.

To choose pork: if the rind is thick and tough, and cannot be easily impressed
with the finger, it is old; when fresh, it will look cool and smooth, and only
corn-fed pork is good; swiU or still-fed pork is unfit to cure. Fresh pork is in
season from October to April. When dressing or stuffing is used, there are more
or less herbs used for seasoning, — sage, summer savory, thyme, and sweet mar-
joram; these can be found (in the dried, pulverized form, put up in small, light
packages) at most of the best druggists; still those raised and gathered at home
are considered more fresh.

ROAST PIG.

Prepare your dressing as for "Dressing for Fowls, '* adding half an onion,
chopped fine; set it inside. Take a young pig about six weeks old, wash it

128 MEATS.

thoroughly mside and outside, and in another water put a teasi)oonful of baking
soda, and rinse out the inside again; wipe.it dry with a fresh towel, salt the
inside and stuff it with the prepared dressing; marking it full and phimp, giving
it its original size and shape. Sew it up, place it in a kneeling posture in the
dripping-pan, tying the legs in proper position. Pour a little hot salted water
into the dripping-pan, baste with butter and water a few times as the pig warms;
afterwards with gravy from the dripping-pan. When it begins to smoke all over
rub it often with a rag dipped in melted butter. This will keep the skin from
cracking and it still wiU be crisp. It will take from two to three hours to
Toast. Make the gravy by flkimming off most of the grease; stir into that
remaining in the pan a good tablespoon of flour, turn in water to make it the
right consistency, season with peppei" and let all boil up once. Strain^ and if
you like wine in it, add half a glass; turn it into agravy boat. Place the pig
upon a large, hot platter, surrounded with parsley or celery tops; place a green
wreath around the neck, and a sprig of celery in its mouth. In carving, cut off
its head first; split down the back, take off its hams and shoulders, and separate
the ribs.

ROAST LOIN OF PORK.

Score the skin in strips about a quarter of an inch apart; place it ina dripping-
pan with a very little water under it; cook it moderately at first, as a high heat
hardens the rind before the meat is heated through. If it is very lean, it should
be rubbed with fresh lard or butter when put into the pan. A stu£Sng might
be made of bread-crumbs, chopped sage and onions, pepper and salt, and baked
separately on a pie dish; this method is better than putting it in the meat, as
many persons have a great aversion to its flavor. A loin weighing about six
pounds will roast in two hours; allow more time if it should be very fat. Make
a gravy with flour stirred into the pork drippings. Serve with apple sauce and
pickles.

ROAST LEG OF PORK.

Choose a small leg of fine young pork; cut a slit in the knuckle with a sharp
knife, and fiU the space with sage and onion chopped, and a little pepper and
salt. When half done, score the skin in shoes, but do not cut deeper than the
outer rind. Apple sauce and potatoes should be served with it. The gravy is to
be made the same way as for beef roast, by turning off all the superfluous fat
and adding a spoonful of flour stirred with a Httle water; add water to make the
right consistency. Serve in a gravy boat.

MEATS. 129

BOILED LEG OF PORK,

For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rub it well with salt;
let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every da)^
An hour before dressing it put it into cold water for an hour, which improves
the color. If the pork is purchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat
has been in pickle, and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with suffi-
cient cold water to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove the scum
as it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and do not allow it to boil fast,
or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the leg is done. Carrots,
turnips or parsnips may be boiled with the pork, some of which should be laid
around the dish as a garnish.

Time, — A leg of pork weighing eight pounds, three hours after the water
boils, and to be simmered v6ry gently.

FRESH PORK POT-PIE,

Boil a spare-rib, after removing all the fat and cracking the bones, xmtil
tender; remove the scum as it rises, and when tender season with salt and
pepper; half an hour before time for serving the dinner thicken the gravy with
a little flour. Have ready another kettle, into which remove all the bones and
most of the gravy, leaving only sufficient to cover the pot half an inch above the
rim that rests on the stove; put in the crust, cover tight, and boil steadily forty-five
minutes. To prepare the crust, work into light dough a small bit of butter,
roll it out thin, cut it in small square cakes, and lay them on the moulding-board
until very light. No steam should possibly escape while the crust is cooking, and
by no means allow the pot to cease boiling.

ROAST SPARE-RIB.

Trim off the rough ends neatly, crack the ribs across the middle, rub with
salt and sprinkle with pepper, fold over, stuff with turkey dressing, sew up
tightly, place in a dripping-pan with a pint of water, baste frequently, turning
over once so as to bake both sides equally imtil a rich brown.

PORK TENDERLOINS.

The tenderloins are imlike any other part of the pork in flavor. They may
be either fried or broiled; the latter being dryer, require to be well-buttered before
serving, which should be done on a hot platter before the butter becomes oily.
Fry them in a httle lard, turning them to have them cooked through; when
done, remove, and keep hot while making a gravy by dredging a little floiu: into

130 MEATS.

the hot fat; if not enough add alittle butter or lard^ stir until browned, and add
a little milk or cream, stir briskly, and pour over the dish. A Uttle Worcester-
shire sauce may be added to the gravy if desired.

PORK CUTLETS.

Cut them from the leg, and remove the skin; trim them and beat them, and
sprinkle on salt and pepper. Prepare some beaten egg in a pan; and on a flat
dish a mixture of bread-crumbs, minced onion and sage. Put some lard or drip-
pings into a frying pan over the fire, and when it boils put in the cutlets;
having dipped every one first in the egg, and then in the seasoning. Pry them
twenty or thirty minutes, turning them often. After you have taken them out
of the frying-pan, skim the gravy, dredge in a little flour, give it one boil, and
then pour it on the dish round the cutlets.

Have apple sauce to eat with them.

Pork cutlets prepared in this manner may be stewed instead of being fried.
Add to them a little water, and stew them slowly till thoroughly done, keeping
them closely covered, except when you remove the lid to skim them.

PORK CHOPS AND FRIED APPLES.

Season the chops with salt and pepper and a Uttle powdered sage; dip them
into bread-crumbs. Pry about twenty minutes, or imtil they are done. Put
them on a hot dish; pour off part of the gravy into another pan to make a
gravy to serve with them, if you choose. Then fry apples which you have sliced
about two-thirds of an inch thick, cutting them around the apple so that the
core is in the centre of each piece; then cut out the core. When they are
browned on one side and partly cooked, turn them caref uUy with a pan-cake
turner, and finish cooking; dish around the chops or on a separate dish.

FRIED PORK CHOPS.

Fry them the same as mutton chops. If a sausage flavor is liked, sprinkle
over them a httle powdered sage or summer savory, pepper and salt, and if a
gravy is liked, «1nTn off some of the fat in the pan and stir in a spoonful of flour;
stir it until free from lumps, then season with pepper and salt and turn in a pint
of sweet mUk. Boil up and serve in a gravy boat.

PORK PIE.
Make a good plain paste. Take from two and a half to three pounds of the
thick ends of a loin of pork, with very little fat on it; cut into very thin sUces
three inches long by two inches wide; put a layer at the bottom of a pie-dish.

MEATS. 131

Wash and chop finely a handful of parsley, also an onion. Sprinkle a small
portion of these over the pork, and a little pepper and salt. Add another layer
of pork, and over that some more of the seasoning, only be sparing of the nut-
meg. Continue this till the dish is full. Now pour into the dish a cupful of
stock or water, and a spoonful or two of catsup. Put a little paste aroimd the
edge of the dish; put on the cover, and place the pie in a rather hot oven. When
the paste has risen and begins to take color, place the pie at the bottom of the
oven, with some paper over it, as it will require to be baked at least two hours.
Some prefer to cook the meat until partly done, before putting into the crust.

— Palmer Bouse, Chicago.

PORK POT-PIE.

Take pieces of ribs of lean salt pork, also a slice or two of the fat of salt pork;
scald it well with hot water so as to wash out the briny taste. Put it into a
kettle and cover it with cold water, enough for the required want. Cover it and
boil an hour, season with pepper; then add half a dozen potatoes cut into
quarters. When it all commences to boil again, drop in dumplings made from
this recipe:

One pint of sour or buttermilk, two eggs, well beaten, a teaspoonf ul of salt,
a level teaspoonful of soda; dissolve in a spoonful of water as much flour as will
make a very stiff batter. Drop this into the kettle or broth by spoonfuls, and
cook forty minutes, closely covered.

PORK AND BEANS. (Baked).

Take two quarts of white beans, pick them over the night before, put to soak
in cold water; in the morning put them in fresh water and let them scald, then
turn off the water and put on more, hot; put to cook with them a piece of salt
pork, gashed, as much as would make five or six slices; boil slowly till soft (not
mashed), then add a tablespoonful of molasses, half a teaspoonful of soda, stir
in well, put in a deep pan, and bake one hom* and a half. If you do not Uke to
use pork, salt the beans when boiling, and add a lump of butter when preparing
them for the oven.

BOSTON PORK AND BEANS.
Pick over carefully a quart of small, white beans; let them soak over night
in cold water; in the morning wash and drain in another water. Put on to boil
in plenty of cold water with a piece of soda the size of a bean; let them come to
a boil, then drain again, cover with water once more, and boil them fifteen
minutes, or until the skin of the beans will crack when taken out and blown

132 MEATS.

upon. Drain the beans again, put them into an earthen pot, adding a table-
spoonful of salt; cover with hot water, place in the centre of a pound of salt
pork, first scalding it with hot water, and scoring the rind across the top, a
quarter of an inch apart to indicate where the sUces are to be cut. Place the
pot in the oven, and bake six hours or longer. Keep the oven a moderate heat;
add hot water from the tea-kettle as needed, on account of evaporation, to keep
the beans moist. When the meat becomes crisp and looks cooked, remove it, as
too long baking the pork destroys its solidity.

FRIED SALT PORK,

Cut in thin slices, and freshen in cold water, roll in flour, and fry crisp. If
required quickly, pour boiling water over the slices, let stand a few minutes,
drain and roll in flour as before; drain off most of the grease from the frying-
pan; stir in while hot one or two tablespoonfuls of flour, about half a pint of
milk, a little pepper, and salt if over freshened; let it boil, and pour into a gravy
dish. A teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley will add pleasantly to the appear-
ance of the gravy.

GRILLED SALT PORK.

Take quite thin slices of the thick part of side pork, of a dear white, and
thinly streaked with lean; hold one on a toasting fork before a brisk fire to griU;
have at hand a dish of cold water, in which immerse it frequently while cook-
ing, to remove the superfluous fat and render it more delicate. Put each slice
as cooked in a warm covered pan; when all are done, serve hot.

FRIED HAM AND EGGS.

Cut slices of ham quite thin, cut off the rind or skin, put them into a hot
frying-]>an, turning them often until crisp, taking care not to bum the slices;
three minutes will cook them welL Dish them on a hot platter; then turn off
the top of the grease, rinse out the pan, and put back the dear grease to fry the
eggs. Break the eggs separately in a saucer, that in case a bad one should be
among them it may not mix with the rest. Shpeach egg gently into the frying-
pan. Do not turn them while they are frying, but keep pouring some of the
hot lard over them with a kitchen spoon; this will do them sufficiently on the
upper side. They wiU be done enough in about three minutes; the white must
retain its transparency so that the yolk will be seen through it. When done,
take them up with a tin sUce, drain off the lard, and if any part of the white is
discolored or ragged, trim it off. Lay a fried egg upon each slice of the ham,
and send to table hot.

MEATS. 133

COLD BACON AND EGGS.

An economical way of using bacon and eggs that have been left from a
previous meal is to put them in a wooden bowl and chop them quite fine, add-
ing a little mashed or cold chopped potato, and a little bacon gravy, if any was
left. Mix and mould it into little balls, roll in raw egg and cracker-crumbs, and
fry in a spider the same as frying eggs; fry a light brown on both sides. Serve
hot. Very appetizing.

SCRAPPEL.

Scrappel is a most palatable dish. Take the head, heart and any lean scraps
of pork, and boil imtil the flesh slips easily from the bones. Eemove the fat,
gristle and bones, then chop fine. Set the hguor in which the meat was boiled
aside until cold, take the cake of fat from the surface and retm*n to the fire.
When it boils, put in the chopped meat and season well with pepper and salt.
Let it boil again, then thicken with corn-meal as you would in making ordinary
corn-meal mush, by letting it shp through the fingers slowly to prevent lum;)s.
Ck>ok an hour, stirring constantly at first, afterwards putting back on the range
in a position to boil gently. When done, pour into a long, square pan, not too
deep, and mold. In cold weather this can be kept several weeks. Cut into
slices when cold, and fried brown, as you do mush, is a cheap and delicious
breakfast dish.

TO BAKE A HAM. (Corned.)

Take a medium-sized ham and place it to soak for ten or twelve hours. Then
cut away the rusty part from underneath, wipe it dry, and cover it rather thickly
over with a paste made of fiour and water. Put it into an earthen dish, and set
it in a moderately heated oven. When done, take off the crust carefully, and
peel off the skin, put a frill of cut paper aroimd the knuckle, and raspings of
bread over the fat of the ham, or serve it glazed and garnished with cut
vegetables. It will take about four or five hours to bake it.

Ck>oked in this way the fiavor is much finer than when boiled.

PIGS' FEET PICKLED.

Take twelve pigs^ feet, scrape and wash them clean, put them into a sauce-
pan with enough hot (not boiling) water to cover them. When partly done, salt
them. It requires four to five hours to boil them soft. Pack them in a stone
crock, and pour over them spiced vinegar made hot. They will be ready to use
in a day or two. If you wish them for breakfast, split them, make a batter of
two eggs, a cup of milk, salt, a teaspoonful of butter, with fiour enough to make

134 MEATS.

a thick batter; dip each piece in this and fry in hot lard. Or, dip them in beaten
egg and flour and fry. Souse is good eaten cold or warm.

BOILED HAM.

First remove aU dust and mold, by wiping with a coarse cloth; soak it for an
hour in cold water, then wash it thoroughly. Cut with a sharp knife the
hardened surface from the base and butt of the ham. Place it over the fire in
cold water, and let it come to a moderate boil, keeping it steadily at this point,
allowing it to cook twenty minutes for every pound of meat. A ham weighing
twelve poxmds will require four hours to cook properly, as underdone ham is very
unwholesome. When the ham is to be served hot, remove the skin by peeling
it off, place it on a platter, the fat side up, and dot the surface with spots of
black pepper. Stick in also some whole cloves.

If the ham is to be served cold, allow it to remain in the pot until the water
in which it was cooked becomes cold. This makes it more juicy. Serve it in
the same manner as when served hot.

BROILED HAM.

Cut your ham into thin slices, which should be a little less than one quarter
of an inch thick. Trim very closely the skin from the upper side of each slice,
and also trim off the outer edge where the smoke has hardened the meat. If the
ham is very salt lay it in cold water for one hour before cooking, then wipe with
a dry doth. Never soak ham in tepid or hot water, as it will toughen the meat.

Broil over a brisk fire, turning the slices condiantly. It will require about
five minutes, and should be served the last thing directly from the gridiron,
placed on a warm platter, with a little butter and a sprinkle of pepper on the top
of each slice. If ham or bacon is allowed to stand by the fire after it has been
broiled or fried, it will speedily toughen, losing all its grateful juices.

Cold boiled ham is very nice for broiling, and many prefer it to using the raw
ham.

POTTED HAM.

To two pounds of lean hani allow one pound of fat, two teaspoonfuls of
powdered mace, half a nutmeg, grated, rather more than half a teaspoonful of
cayenne.

Mode. — Mince the ham, fat and lean together, in the above proportion, and
pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, pounded mace and
nutmeg; put the mixture into a deep baking dish, and bake for half an hour;
then press it well into a stone jar, fill up the jar with clarified lard, cover it

MEATS. 135

dosely, and paste over it a piece of thick paper. 11 well seasoned, it will keep a
long time in winter, and will be found very convenient for sandwiches, etc.

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE. (Cooked.)
Two pounds of lean pork, two pounds of lean veal, two poimds of fresh
lean beef, two pounds of fat salt pork, one pound beef suet, ten tablespoonf uls of
powdered sage, one ounce each of parsley, savory, marjoram and thyme, mixed.
Two teaspoonf uls of cayenne pepper, the same of black, one grated nutmeg., one
teaspoonful of cloves, one minced onion, salt to taste. Chop or grind the meat
and suet; season, and stuff into beef skins; tie these up, prick each in several
places to allow the escape of steam; put into hot, not boiling water, and heat
gradually to the boiling point Cook slowly for one hour; take out the skins
and lay them to dry in the sun, upon clean, sweet straw or hay. Rub the out-
side of the skins with oil or melted butter, and place in a cool, dry cellar. If you
wish to keep them more than a week, rub ginger or pepper on the outside, then
wash it off before using. This is eaten without further cooking. Cut in round
shoes and lay sUced lemon around the edge of the dish, as many like to squeeze
a few drops upon the sausage before eating. These are very nice smoked Uke
hams.

COUNTRY PORK SAUSAGES.

Six pounds lean fresh pork, three pounds of chine fat, three tablespoonf uls of

salt, two of black pepper, four tablespoonfuls of poTinded and sifted sage, two

of summer savory. Chop the lean and fat pork finely, mix the seasoning in with

your hands, taste to see that it has the right flavor, then put them into cases,

either the cleaned intestines of the hog, or noiake long, narrow bags of stout

muslin, large enough to contain each enough sausage for a family dish. Fill

these with the meat, vlip in melted lard, and hang them in a cool, dry dark place.

Some prefer to pack the meat in jars, pouring melted lard over it, covering the

top, to be taken out as wanted and made into small round cakes with the

hands, then fried brown. Many like spices added to the seasoning— cloves,

mace and nutmeg. This is a matter of taste.

— Marion Harland.

TO FRY SAUSAGES.

Put a small piece of lard or butter into the frying-pan. Prick the sausages
with a fork, lay them in the melted grease, keep moving them about, turning
them frequently to prevent bursting; in ten or twelve minutes they will be
sufficiently browned and cooked. Another sure way to prevent the cases from
bursting is to cover them with cold water and let it come to the boiling point; turn

136 MEATS.

off the water and fry them. Sausages are nicely cooked by putting them in a
baking-pan and browning them in the oven, turning them once or twice. In
this way you avoid all smoke and disagreeable odor. A pound will cook brown
in ten minutes in a hot oven.

HEAD CHEESE.

Boil the forehead, ears and feet, and nice scraps trinmied from the hains of a
fresh pig, until the meat will almost drop from the bones. Then separate the
meat from the bones, put it in a large chopping-bowl, and season with pepper,
salt, sage and summer savory. Chop it rather coarsely; put it back into the
same kettle it was boiled in, with just enough of the liquor in which it was boiled
to prevent its burning; warm it through thoroughly, mixing it well together.
Now pour it into a strong muslin bag, press the bag between two flat surfaces,
with a heavy weight on top; when cold and solid it can be cut in slices. Good
cold, or warmed up in vinegar.

TO CURE HAMS AND BACON. (A Prize Recipe.)

For each hundred x>ound8 of hams, make a pickle of ten pounds of salt, two
pounds of brown sugar, two ounced of saltpetre, and one ounce of red pepper,
and from four to four and a half gallons of water, or just enough to cover the
hams, after being packed in a water-tight vessel, or enough salt to make a brine
to float a fresh egg high enough, that is to say, out of water. First rub the
hams with conunon salt, and lay them into a tub. Take the above ingredients,
put them into a vessel over the flre, and heat it hot, stirring it frequently;
remove all the scum, allow it to boil ten minutes, let it cool and pour over the
meat. After laying in this brine five or six weeks, take out, drain and wipe,
and smoke from two to three weeks. Small pieces of bacon may remain in
this pickle two weeks, which would be sufficient.

TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME.

Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross-
stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. Next, in the side,
cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan filled with hickory wood sawdust
and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the hoshead upside down, hang
the articles ux)on the cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in the opening, and place
a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete.
Let a large ham remain ten days, and keep up a good smoke. The best way
for keeping hams is to sew them in coarse cloths, whitewashed on the outside.

MEATS. 137

TO CURE ENGLISH BACON.

This process is called the " dry cure, ^' and is considered far preferable to the
New England or Yankee style of putting prepared brine or pickle over the meat.
First the hog should not be too large or too fat, weighing not over two hundred
pounds; then after it is dressed and cooled cut it up into proper pieces; allow to
every hundred pounds a mixture of four quarts of common salt, one quarter of
a pound of saltpetre and four pounds of sugar. Rub this preparation thoroughly
over and into each piece, then place them into a tight tub or suitable cask; there
will a brine form of itself, from the juices of the meat, enough at least to baste
it with, which should be done two or three times a week; turning each piece
every time.

In smoking this bacon, the sweetest flavor is derived from black birch chips,

but if these are not to be had, the next best wood is hickory; the smoking with

corn-cobs imparts a rank flavor to this bacon, which is very distasteful to English

people visiting this . country. It requires three weeks or a month to smoke this

bacon properly.

— Berkshire Recipe.

TO TRY OUT LARD.

Skin the leaf lard carefully, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a kettle
or sauce-pan; pour in a cupful of water to prevent burning; set it over the fire
where it will melt slowly. Stir it frequently and let it simmer until nothing
remains but brown scraps. Bemove the scraps with a perforated skimmer,
throw in a little salt to settle the fat, and, when cl^ar, strain through a coarse
doth into jars. Bemember to watch it constantly, stirring it from the bottom
until the salt is thrown in to settle it; then set it back on the range until clear.
If it scorches it gives it a very bad flavor.

.*--•" .. • '':■

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DRAWN BUTTER.

Melted butter is the foundation of most of the common sauces. Have a
covered sauce-pan for this purpose. One hned with porcelain will be best. Take
n quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, cut it up, and mix with it about
one tablespoonful of flour. When it is thoroughly mixed, put it into the sauce-
pan^ and add to it half a teacupful of hot water. Cover the sauce-pan and set it
in a large tin pan of boiling water. Shake it round continually (always moving
it the same way) till it is entirely melted and begins to simmer. Then let it rest
till it boils up.

If you set it on too hot a fire, it will be oily.

If the butter and flom* are not weU mixed, it will be lumpy.

If you put too much water, it will be thin and poor. AU these defects are to
be carefully avoided.

In melting butter for sweet or pudding sauce, you may use milk instead of
water.

EGG SAUCE, OR WHITE SAUCE.

Mix two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour with half a teacup of warm butter.
Place over the fire a sauce-pan containing a pint of sweet milk and a salt-spoon
of salt, and a dash of white pepper; when it reaches the boiling point, add the
butter and flour, stirring briskly until it thickens and becomes like cream. Have
ready three cold, hard-boiled eggs, sliced and chopped, add them to the sauce;
let them heat through thoroughly, and serve in a boat. If you have plenty of
cream, use it and omit the butter. By omitting the eggs, you have the same as
"White Sauce."

OYSTER SAUCE.

Take a pint of oysters and heat them in their own liquor long enough to
come to a boil, or until they begin to ruffle. Skim out the oysters into a warm

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS. 1 39

dish, put into the liquor a teacup of milk or cream, two tablespooiifuls of cold
butter, a pinch of cayenne and salt; thicken with a tablespoonful of flour stirred
to a paste, boil up and then add the oysters.

Oyster sauce is used for fish, boiled turkey chickens and boiled white meats
of most kinds.

LOBSTER SAUCE.

Put the coral and spawn of a boiled lobster into a mortar, with a tablespoonful
of butter; pound it to a smooth mass, then rub it through a sieve; melt nearly a
quarter of a pound of sweet butter, with a wineglass of water or vinegar; add
a teaspoonfal of made mustard, stir in the coral and spawn, and a little salt and
pepper; stir it until it is smooth, and serve. Some of the meat of the lobster
may be chopped fine, and stirred into it.

SAUCE FOR SALMON AND OTHER FISH.

One cupful of rt\K^ heated to a boil and thickened with a tablespoonful of
corn-starch previously wet up with cold water, the liquor from the salmon, one
great spoonful of butter, one raw egg beaten hght, the juice of half a lemon,
mace and cayenne pepper to taste. Add the egg to thickened milk when you
have stirred in the butter and liquor; take from the fire, season and let it stand
in hot water three minutes, covered. Lastly put in lemon juice and turn out
immediately. Pour it all over and around the salmon.

SAUCE FOR BOILED COD.

To one gill of boiling water add as much milk; stir into this while boiling
two tablespoonfuls of butter gradually, one tablespoonful of flour wet up with
cold water; as it thickens, the chopped yolk of one boiled egg, and one raw egg
beaten hght. Take directly from the fire, season with pepper, salt, a little
chopped parsley and the juice of one lemon, and set covered in boiling water
(but not over fire) five minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour part of the sauce
over fish when dished; the rest in a boat. Serve mashed potatoes with it.

FISH SAUCE. No. 2.

Make a pint of drawn butter, add one tablespoonful of pepper sauce or Wor-
cestershire sauce, a little salt and six hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine. Pour over
boiled fish and garnish with sliced lemon. Very nice.

FISH SAUCE. No. 3.
Half a cupful of melted butter, half a cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls
of tomato catsup, salt, and a tablespoonful of made mustard. Boil ten minutes.

1 40 SA UCES A ND DRESSINGS.

CELERY SAUCE.
Mjy two tablespoonfuls of flour with half a teacupful of butter; have ready
a pint of boiling milk-; stir the flour and butter into the milk; take three heads
of celery, cut into small bits, and boil for a few minutes in water, which strain
off; put the celery into the melted butter, and keep it stirred over the fire for
five or ten minutes. This is very liice with boiled fowl or turkey. Another
way to make celery sauce is: Boil a head of celery until c^uite tender, then put
it through a sieve; put the yolk of an egg in a basin, and beat it well with the
strained juice of a lemon; add the celery and a couple of spoonfuls of liquor in
which the turkey was boiled; salt and pepper to taste.

CAPER SAUCE.

Chop the capers a very little, unless quite small; make half a pint of drawn
butter, to which add the capers, with a large spoonful of the juice from the
bottle in which they are sold; let it just simmer, and serve in a tureen. Nastur-
tiums much resemble capers in taste, though larger, and may be used, and, in
fact, are preferred by many. They are grown on a climbing vine, and are culti-
vated for their blossom and for pickling. When used as capers they should be
chopped more. If neither capers nor nasturtiums are at hand, some pickles chop-
ped up form a very good substitute in the sauce.

BREAD SAUCE.

One cup of stale bread-crumbs, one onion, two ounces of butter, pepper and
salt, a little mace. Cut the onion fine, and boil it in milk till quite soft; then
strain the milk on to the stale bread-crumbs, and let it stand an hour. Put it
in a sauce-pan with the boiled onion, pepper, salt and mace. Give it a boil, and
serve in sauce tureen. This sauce can also be used for grouse, and is very nice.
Eoast i>artridges are nice served with bread-crumbs, fried brown in butter, with
cranberry or currant jelly laid beside them in the platter.

TOMATO SAUCE.

Take a quart can of tomatoes, put it over the fire in a stew-pan, put in one
aUce of onion, and two cloves, a little pepper and salt; boil about twenty minutes;
then remove from the fire and strain it through a sieve. Now melt in another
pan an ounce of butter, and as it melts, sprinkle in a tablespoonful of flour; stir
it until it browns and froths a little. Mix the tomato pulp with it, and it is
ready for the table.

Excellent for mutton chops, roast beef, etc.

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS. 1 4 1

ONION SAUCE.

Work together until light a heaping tablespoonf ul of flour, and half a cupful
of butter, and gradually add two cups of boiling milk; stir constantly until it
comes to a boil; then stir into that four tender boiled onions that have been
chopped fine. Salt and pepper to taste* Serve with boiled veal, poultry or
mutton.

CHILI SAUCE.

Boil together two dozen ripe tomatoes, three small green peppers, or a half
teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one onion cut fine, half a cup of sugar. Boil
until thick; then add two cups of vinegar; then strain the whole, set back on the
fire and add a tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful each of ginger, allspice,
cloves and cinnamon; boil all five minutes, remove and seal in glass bottles.
This is very nice.

MINT SAUCE.

Take fresh young spearmint leaves, stripped from the stems; wash and drain,
them, or dry on a cloth. Chop very fine, put in a gravy boat, and to three^
tablespoonfuls of mint put two of white sugar; mix and let it stand a few
minutes, then pour over it six tablespoonfuls of good cider or white- wine vinegar.
The sauce should be made some time before it is to be used, so that the flavor of
the mint may be well extracted. Fine with roast lamb.

SHARP BROWN SAUCE.

Put in a sauce-pan one tablespoonful of chopped onion, three tablespoonfals
of good cider vinegar, six tablespoonfuls of water, three of tomato catsup, a little
pepi)er and salt, half a cup of melted butter, in which stir a tablespoonful of
sifted flour; put all together and boil until it thickens. This is most excellent
with boiled meats, fish and poultry.

BECHAMEL SAUCE.

Put three tablespoonfuls of butter in a sauce-pan; add three tablespoonfuls of
sifted flour, quarter of a teaspoonful of nutmeg, ten pepper-corns, a teaspoonful
of salt; beat all well together; then add to this, three slices of onion, two slices of
carrot, two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a bay leaf and half a dozen mush-
rooms cut up. Moisten the whole with a pint of stock or water and a cup of
sweet cream. Set it on the stove and cook slowly for half of an hour, watching
closely that it does not bum; then strain through a sieve. Most excellent with
roast veal, meats and fish. —St. CharUa Hotel, New Orleans.

1 42 SA UCES AND DJ^ESSINGS.

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.

Make a teacupful of drawn butter; add to it the juice of a lemon, two table-
spoonfuls of minced onion, three tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a teaspoon-
ful of powdered thyme or smnmer savory, a pinch of cayenne and salt. Simmer
over the fire, and stir weU. Excellent with all kinds of fish.

WINE SAUCE FOR GAME.

Half a glass of currant jelly, half a glass of port wine, half a glass of water^
a tablespoonful of cold butter, a teaspoonful of salt, the juice of half a lemon^
a pinch of cayenne pepper and three doves. Simmer aU together a few minutes,
adding the wine after it is strained. A few spoonfuls of the gravy from the
game may be added to it. This sauce is especially nice with venison.

— Tabor House, Denver.

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.

Half a teacupful of butter, the juice of half a lemon, the yolk of two eggs, a
speck of cayenne pepper, half a cupful of boiling water, half a teaspoonful of
salt; beat the butter to a cream, add the yolks of eggs one by one; then the lemon-
juice, pepper and salt, beating all thoroughly; place the bowl in which is the
mixture in a sauce-pan of boiling water; beat with an egg-beater until it begins
to thicken which will be in about a minute; then add the boiling water, beating all
the time; stir until it begins to thicken Uke soft custard; stir a few minutes after
taking from the fire; be careful not to cook it too long. This is very nice with

baked fish.

— Miee Parloa.

CURRANT JELLY SAUCE.

Three tablespoonfuls of butter, one onion, one bay leaf, one sprig of celery,
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a cupful of currant jelly, one tablespoonful
of fiour, one pint of stock, salt, pepper. Cook the butter and onion until the
latter begins to color. Add the floiu* and herbs. Stir until brown; add the
stock, and simmer twenty minutes. Strain, and skim off all the fat. Add the
jelly, and stir over the fire until it is melted. Serve with game.

BROWN SAUCE.

Delicious sauce for meats is made in this way: Slice a large onion, and fry in
butter till it is brown; then cover the onion with rich brown gravy, which is left
from roast beef; add mustard, salt and pepper, and if you choose a tablespoonful
of Worcestershire sauce; let this boil up, and if too thick, thin it with a little

SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 1 43

stock or gravy, or even a little hot water with butter. Pour this when done
through a fine sieve. Of course a larger quantity can be prepared at once than
is mentioned here.

MUSHROOM SAUCE.

Wash a pint of small button mushrooms, remove the stems and outside skins,
stew them slowly in veal gravy or milk or cream, adding an onion, and season-
ing with pepper, salt and a little butter rolled in flour. Their flavor will be
heightened by salting a few the night before, to extract the juice. In dressing
mushrooms, only those of a dull pearl color on the outside and the under part
tinged with pale pink should be selected. If there is a poisonous one among
them, the onion in the sauce will turn black. In such a case throw the whole
away. Used for poultry, beef or flsh.

APPLE SAUCE.

When you wish to serve apple sauce with meat prepare it in this way: Cook
the apples until they are very tender, then stir them thoroughly so there will be
no lumps at all; add the sugar and a little gelatine dissolved in warm water, a
tablespoonful in a pint of sauce; pour the sauce into bowls, and when cold it will
be stiff like jelly, and can be turned out on a plate. Cranberry sauce can be
treated in the same way. Many prefer this to plain stewing.

Apples cooked in the following way look very pretty on a tea-table, and are
appreciated by the palate. Select firm, round greenings; pare neatly and cut in
halves; place in a shallow stew-pan with sufiicient boiling water to cover them,
and a cupful of sugar to every six apples. Each half should cook on the bottom
of the pan, and be removed from the others so as not to injure its shape. Stew
slowly imtil the pieces are very tender; remove to a dish carefully; boil the
syrup half an hour longer; pour it over the apples and eat cold. A few pieces
of lemon boiled in the syrup adds to the flavor. These sauces are a flne accom-
paniment to roast pork or roast goose.

CIDER APPLE SAUCE.

Boil four quarts of new cider xuitil it is reduced to two quarts, then put into
it enough pared and quartered apples to fill the kettle; let the whole stew over a
moderate fire four hours; add cinnamon if liked. This sauce is very fine with
almost any kind of meat.

OLD-FASHIONED APPLE SAUCE.

Pare and chop a dozen medium-sized apples, put them in a deep pudding-dish;
sprinkle over them a heaping coffee-cupful of sugar and one of water. Place

1 44 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS.

them in the oven and bake slowly two hours or more, or until they are a deep
red brown; quite as nice as preserves.

CRANBERRY SAUCE.

One quart of cranberries, two cupfuls of sugar, and a pint of water. Wash
the cranberries, then put them on the fire with the water, but in a covered sauce-
pan. Let them simmer until each cranberry bursts open; then remove the cover
of the sauce-pan, add the sugar and let them all boil for twenty minutes without
the cover. The cranberries must never be stirred from the time they are placed
on the fire. This is an unfailing recipe for a most deUdous preparation of cran-
berries. Very fine with turkey and game.

APPLE OMELET.

Apple omelet, to be served with broiled spare-rib or roast pork, is very deli-
cate. Take nine large, tart apples, four ^gs, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon-
ful of butter; add cinnamon or other spices to suit your taste; stew the apples
iall they are very soft; mash them so that there will be no lumps; add the butter
and sugar while they are still warm; but let them cool before putting in the
beaten %gs; bake this till it is brown; you may put it all in a shallow pudding-
dish or in two tin plates to bake. Very good.

FLAVORED VINEGARS.

Almost all the flavorings used for meats and salads may be prepared in
vinegar with little trouble and expense, and will be found useful to impart an
add to flavors when lemons are not at hand.

Tarragon, sweet basil, bumet, green mint, sage, thyme, sweet-marjoram,
etc., may be prepared by putting three ounces of either of these herbs, when in
blossom, into one gallon of sharp vinegar; let stand ten days, strain off dear, and
bottle for use.

Cdery and cayenne maybe prepared, using three ounces of the seed as above.

CUCUMBER VINEGAR.

Ingredients. — ^Ten large cucumbers, or twelve smaller ones, one quart of
vinegar, two onions, two shalots, one tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoonfols
of pepper, a quarter of a teaspoonf ul of cayenne.

Mode. — Pare and slice the cucumbers, put them in a stone jar, or wide-
mouthed bottle, with the vinegar; slice the onions and shalots, and add them,
with all the other ingredients, to the cucumbers. Let it stand four or five days;
boil it all up, and when cold, strain the liquor through a piece of muslin, and

SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 145

store it away in small bottles well sealed. This vinegar is a very nice addition to
gravies, hashes, etc., as well as a great improvement to salads, or to eat with,
cold meat.

CURRY POWDER.

To make curry powder, take one omice of ginger, one ounce of mustard, one
ounce of pepper, three ounces of coriander seed, three ounces of turmeric, half
an oimce of cardamoms, one-quarter omice of cayenne pepper, one-quarter ounce
of cinnamon, and one-quarter ounce of cummin seed. Pound all these ingre-
•dients very fine in a mortar; sift them and cork tight in a bottle.

This can be had already prepared afc most druggists, and it is much less
trouble to purchase it than to make it at home.

CURRY SAUCE,

One tablespoonf ul of butter, one of flour, one teaspoonful of curry powder,
one large slice of onion, one large cupful of stock, salt and pepper to taste. Cut
the onion fine, and fry brown in the butter. Add the flour and curry powder.
Stir for one minute, add the stock and season with the salt and pepper. Simmer
five minutes; then strain and serve. This sauce can be served with a broil or
^auU of meat or fish.

TO BROWN BUTTER.

Put a lump of butter into a hot frying-pan, and toss it about until it browns.
€tir brown fiour into it until it is smooth and begins to boil. Use it for coloring
gravies, and sauces for meats.

TO BROWN FLOUR.

Spread flour upon a tin pie-plate, set it upon the stove or in a very hot oven,
and stir continually after it begins to color, until it is brown all through.

Keep it always on hand; put away in glass jars covered closely. It is excel-
lent for coloring and thickening many dishes.

TO MAKE MUSTARD.

Boil some vinegar; take four spoonfuls of mustard, half of a teaspoonful of
sugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of melted butter; mix well.

FRENCH R5USTARD.

Three tablespoonf uls of mustard, one tablespoonf ul of granulated sugar, well
worked together, then beat in an egg until it is smooth; add one teacupful of
vinegar, a little at a time, working it all smooth; then set on the stove and cook

146 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS.

three or four minutes, stirring all the time; when cool, add one tablespoonful of
the beet oKve oil, taking care to get it all thoroughly worked in and smooth.

Tou will find this very nice.

—Mr8. D. Riegd.

KITCHEN PEPPER.

Mix one ounce of ground ginger^ half an ounce each of black pepper, ground

cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, one teaspoonful of ground cloves, and six

ounces of salt. Keep in a tightly corked bottle.

—The Caterer.

PREPARED COCOANUT. (For Pies, Puddings, &c.)

To prepare cocoanut for future use; first cut a hole through the meat at one
of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, tben loosen the meat by pounding the
nut well on all sides. Crack the nut and take out the meat, and place the pieces
of meat in a cool open oven over night, or for a few hours, to dry; then grate it.
If there is more grated than is needed for present use, sprinkle it with sugar,
and spread out in a cool dry place. When dry enough put away in dry cans or
bottles. WiU keep for weeks.

Ginger is the root of a shrub first known in Asia, and now cultivated in the
West Indies and Sierra Leone. The stem grows three or four feet high, and
dies every year. There are two varieties of ginger— the white and black —
caused by taking more or less care in selecting and preparing the roots, which
are always dug in winter, when the stems are withered. The white is the best.

Cinnamon is the inner bark of a beautiful tree, a native of Ceylon, that grows
from twenty to thirty feet in height and hves to be centuries old.

Cloves. — Native to the Molucca Islands, and so called from resemblance to
a nail (clavis). The East Indians call them ^' changkek," from the Chinese ^^ te-
chengkia'' (fragrant nails). They grow on a strait, smooth-barked tree, about
forty feet high. Cloves are not fruits, but blossoms, gathered before they are
quite unfolded.

Allspice. — A berry so called because it combines the flavor of several spices
— grows abundantiy on the allspice or bayberry tree; native of South America
and the West Indies. A single tree has been known to produce one hundred
and fifty pounds of berries. They are purple when ripe.

Black pepper is made by grinding the dried berry of a dimbing vine, native
to the East Indies. White pepper is obtained from the same berries, freed from

SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 147

their husk or rind. Bed or cayenne pepper is obtained by grinding the scarlet pod
or seed-vessel of a tropical plant that is now cultivated in all parts of the world.
Nutmeg is the kernel of a small, smooth, pear-shaped fruit that grows on a
tree in the Molucca Islands, and other parts of the East. The trees commence
bearing in the seventh year, and continue fruitful until they are seventy or
eighty years old. Around the nutmeg or kernel is a bright, brown shell. This
shell has a soft scarlet covering, which, when flattened out and dried, is known
as mace. The best nutmegs are sohd, and emit oil when pricked with a pin.

HERBS FOR WINTER.

To prepare herbs for winter use, such as sage, summer savory, thyme, mint
or any of the sweet herbs, they should be gathered fresh in their season, or
procure them from the market. Examine them well, throwing out all poor
sprigs; then wash and shake them; tie into small bundles, and tie over the
bundles a piece of netting or old lace, (to keep off the dust); hang up in a warm,
dry place, the leaves downward. In a few days the herb will be thoroughly diy
and brittle. Or you may place them in a cool oven, and let them remain in it
until perfectly dry. Then pick off all the leaves, and the tender tops of the
stems; put them in a dean, large-mouthed bottle that is perfectly dry. When
wanted for use, rub fine, and sift through a sieve. It is much better to put
them in bottles as soon as dried, as long exposure to the air causes them to lose
strength and flavor.

MEATS AND THEIR ACCOMPANIMENTS.

With roast beef: tomato sauce, grated horse-radish, mustard, cranberry sauce,

pickles.
With roast pork: apple sauce, cranberry sauce.
With roast veal: tomato sauce, mushroom sauce, onion sauce and cranberry

sauce. Horse-radish and lemons are good.
With roast mutton: currant jelly, caper sauce.
With boiled mutton: onion sauce, caper sauce.
With boiled fowls: bread sauce, onion sauce, lemon sauce, cranberry sauce, jeUiea-

Also cream sauce.
With roast lamb: mint sauce.
With roast turkey: cranberry sauce, currant jelly.
With boiled turkey : oyster sauce.
With venison or wild ducks: cranberry sauce, currant jelly, or currant jelly

warmed with port wine.

148 • SAVCES AND DRESSINGS.

With roast goose: apple sauce, cranberry sauce, grape or currant jelly.
With boiled fresh mackerel: stewed gooseberries.
With boiled blue fish: white cream sauce, lemon sauce.
With broiled shad: mushroom sauce, parsley or egg sauce.
With fresh salmon: green peas, cream sauce.

Pickles are good with all roast meats, and in fact are suitable accompaniments
to all kinds of meats in general

Spinach is the proper accompaniment to veal; green peas to lamb.

Lemon juice makes a very grateful addition to nearly all the insipid members
of the fish kingdom. Slices of lemon cut into very small dice and stirred into
drawn butter and allowed to come to the boiling point, served with fowls, is a
fine accompaniment.

VEGETABLES APPROPRIATE TO DIFFERENT DISHES.

Potatoes are good with all meats. With fowls they are nicest maahed.
Sweet potatoes are most appropriate with roast meats, as also are onions, winter
squash, cucumbers and asparagus.

Carrots, parsnips, turnips, greens and cabbage are generally eaten with
boiled meat, and com, beets, peas and beans are appropriate to either boiled or
roasted meat. Mashed turnip is good with roast pork and with boiled meats.
Tomatoes are good with almost every kind of meats, especially with roasts.

WARM DISHES FOR BREAKFAST.

The following of hot breakfast dishes may be of assistance in knowing what
to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast.

Broiled beef steak, broiled chops, broiled chicken, broiled fish, broiled quail
on toast, fried pork tenderloins, fried pig's feet, fried oysters, fried dams, fried
liver and bacon, fried chops, fried pork, ham and eggs fried, veal cutlets breaded,
sausages, fricasseed tripe, fricasseed kidneys, turkey or chicken hash, com beef
hash, beef croquettes, codfish balls, creamed codfish, stewed meats on toast,
poached eggs on toast, omelettes, eggs boiled plain, and eggs cooked in any of
the various styles.

VEGETABLES FOR BREAKFAST.

Potatoes in any of the various modes of cooking, also stewed tomatoes, stew-
ed com, raw-radishes, cucumbers sUced, tomatoes sliced raw, water cress, lettuce.

To be included with the breakfast dishes: oatmeal mush, cracked wheat,
hominy or corn-meal mush, these with cream, Tm'llr and sugar or syrup.

SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 149

Then numberless varieties of bread can be selected, in form of roUs, fritters,
mnffins, waflles, corn-cakes, griddle-cakes, etc., etc.

For beverages, coffee, chocolate and cocoa, or tea if one prefers it; these are
■all suitable for the breakfast table.

When obtainable always have a vase of choice flowers on the breakfast ta-
ble; also some fresh fruit, if convenient.

Salabs.

Everything in the make-up of a salad should be of the freshest material, the
vegetables crisp and fresh, the oil or butter the very best, meats, fowl and fish
well cooked, pure dder or white-wine vinegar — in fact, every ingredient first-
dass, to insure success.

The vegetables used in salad are: Beet-root, onions, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce,
celery, cucumbers, lentils, haricots, winter cress, peas, French beans, radish,
-cauliflower, — ^all these may be used judiciously in salad, if properly seasoned,
.according to the following directions:

Chervil is a delicious salad herb, invariably found in all salads prepared by a
French gourmet. No man can be a true epicure who is unfamiliar with this
excellent herb. It may be procured from the vegetable stands at Fulton and
Washington markets the year round. Its leaves resemble parsley, but are more
-divided, and a few of them added to a breakfast salad give a delightful flavor.

Chervil vinegar. — ^A few drops of this vinegar added to fish sauces or salads
IS excellent, and well repays the Uttle trouble taken in its preparation. Half fill
a bottle with fresh or dry chervil leaves; fill the bottle with good vinegar and
lieat it gently by placing it in warm water, which bring to boiling point; remove
from the fire; when cool cork, and in two weeks it will be ready for use.

MAYONNAISE DRESSING.

Put the yolks of four fresh raw eggs, with two hard-boiled ones, into a cold
TjowL Rub these as smoooth as possible before introducing the oil; a good
measure of oil is a tablespoonful to each yolk of raw egg. All the art consists
in introducing the oil by degrees, a few drops at a time. You can never make
a good salad without taking plenty of time. When the oil is well mixed, and
assumes the appearance of jeUy, put in two heaping teaspoonfuls of dry table
salt, one of pepper, and one of made mustard. Never put in salt and pepper

1 50 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS.

before this stage of the process, because the salt and pepper would coagulate the
albumen of the eggs, and you could not get the dressing smooth. Two table-
spoonfuls of vinegar added gradually.

Tlie Mayonnaise should be the thickness of thick cream when finished, but if
it looks like curdling when mixing it, set in the ice-box or in a cold place for
about forty minutes or an hour, then mix it again. It is a goodidea to place it in.
a pan of cracked ice while mixing.

For lobster salad, use the corals mashed and pressed through a sieve, thea
add to the above.

Salad dressing should be kept in a separate bowl in a cold place, and not
mixed with the salad until the moment it is to be served, or it may lose it&
crispness and freshness.

DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW. (Cabbage Salad.)

Beat up two eggs, with two tablespoonfuls of sugar add a piece of butter th&
size of half an egg, a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper, and lastly a teacup
of vinegar. Put all these ingredients into a dish over the fire, and cook like a
soft custard. Some think it improved by adding half a cupful of thick sweefc
cream to this dressing; in that case use less vinegar. Either way is very fine.

SALAD CREAM DRESSING. No. x.

One cup fresh cream, one spoonful fine fiour, the whites of two eggs beaten,
stiff, three spoonfuls of vinegar, two sx>oonfuls of salad oil or soft butter, two spoon-
fuls of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful salt, one half teaspoonful pepper, one
teaspoonful of made mustard. Heat cream almost to boiling; stir in the flour,
previously wet with cold milk; boil two minutes, stirring all the time; add sugar
and take from fire. When half cold, beat in whipped whites of ^g; set aside
to cool. When quite cold, whip in the oil or butter, pepper, mustard and salt;,
if the salad is ready, add vinegar, and pour at once over it.

CREAM DRESSING. No. 2.

Two tablespoonfuls of whipped sweet cream, two of sugar, and four of vine-
gar; beat well and pour over the cabbage, previously cut very fine and seasoned
with salt

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.

Mix one saltspoon of pepper with one of salt; add three tablespoonfuls of
olive oil, and one even tablespoonful of onion, scraped fine; then one tablespoon-

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 1 5 1

f ul of vinegar; when well mixed, pour the mixture over your salad, and stir all
till well mingled.

The merit of a salad is that it should be cool, fresh and crisp. For vegetables,
use only the dehcate white stalks of celery, the small heart-leaves of lettuce, or
tenderest stalks and leaves of the white cabbage. Keep the vegetable portions
crisp and fresh, until the time for serving, when add the meat. For chicken
and fish salads, use the Mayonnaise dressing. For simple vegetable salads, the
French dressing is most appropriate, using onion rather than garlic.

MIXED SUMMER SALAD.

Three heads of lettuce, two teaspoonfuls of green mustard leaves; a handful
of water-cresses; five tender radishes; one cucumber; three hard-boiled eggs; two
teaspoonfuls of white sugar; one teaspoonf ul of salt; one teaspoonf ul of pepper;
one teaspoonful of made mustard; one teacupful of vinegar; half a teacupful
of oil.

Mix all well together, and serve with a lump of ice in the middle.

— ^^Common Sense in the Household.**

CHICKEN SALAD.

Boil the fowls tender, and remove all the fat, gristle and skin; mince the
meat in small pieces, but do not hash it. To one chicken put twice and a half
its weight in celery, cut in pieces of about one-quarter of an inch; mix thor-
oughly, and set it in a cool place, — ^the ice chest.

In the meantime prepare a " Mayonnaise dressing, '' and when ready for the
table pour this dressing over the chicken and celery, tossing and mixing it thor-
oughly. Set it in a cool place until ready to serve. Garnish with celery tips, or
cold hard-boiled ^gs, lettuce-leaves, from the heart, cold boiled beets or capers;
olives.

Crisp cabbage is a good substitute for celery; when celery is not to be had
use celery vinegar in the dressing. Turkey makes a fine salad.

LOBSTER SALAD. No. i.

Prepare a sauce with the coral of a fine, new lobster, boiled fresh for about
half an hour. Pound and rub it smooth, and mix very gradually with a dress-
ing made from the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoonful of made mus-
tard, three of salad oil, two of vinegar, one of white powdered sugar, a small
teaspoonful of salt, as much black pepper, a pinch of cayenne and two fresh
yolks of eggs. Next fill your salad bowl with some shred lettuce, the better
' part of two, leaving the small curled centre to garnish your dish with. Mingle

152 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS.

with this the flesh of your lobster, torn, broken or cut into bits seasoned with
salt and pepper and a smaU portion of the dressing. Pour over the whole the
rest of the dressing; put your lettuce-hearts down the centre and arrange upon,
the^sides slices of hard-boiled eggs.

LOBSTER SALAD. No. 2.

Using canned lobsters, take a can, skiin off all the oil on the surface, and
chop the meat up coarsely on a flat dish. Prepare the same way six heads of
celery; mix a teaspoonf ul of mustard into a smooth paste with a little vinegar;
add two fresh yolks of eggs; a tablespoonful of butter, creamed, a small tea-
spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne
pepper, a giU of vinegar, and the mashed yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix &
small portion of the dressing with the celery and meat, and turn the remainder
over all. Garmsh with the green tops of celery, and a hard -boiled egg, cut into
thin rings.

FISH SALAD.

Take a fresh white flsh or trout, boil and chop it, but not too flne; put with
the same quantity of chopped cabbage, celery or lettuce; season the same as
chicken salad. Garnish with the tender leaves of the heart of lettuce.

OYSTER SALAD.

Drain the liquor from a quart of fresh oysters. Put them in hot vin^;ar
enough to cover them placed over the fire; let them remain until plumpy but not
cooked; then drop them immediately in cold water, drain off, and mix with
them two pickled cucumbers cut fine, also a quart of celery cut in dice pieces^
some seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix all well together, tossing up with &
silver fork. Pour over the whole a ^^ Mayonnaise dressing." Garnish with
celery tips and slices of hard-boiled eggs arranged tastefully.

DUTCH SALAD.

Wash, split and bone a dozen anchovies, and roll each one up; wash, split-
and bone one herring, and cut it up into small pieces; cut up into dice an equal
quantity of Bologna or Lyons sausage, or of smoked ham and sausages; also,
an equal quantity of the breast of cold roast fowl, or veal; add likewise, always
in the same quantity, and cut into^dice, beet-roots, pickled cucumbers, cold boiled
potatoes cut in larger dice, and in quantity according to taste, but at least thiice
as much potato as anything else; add a tablespoonful of capers, the yolks and
whites of some hard-boiled eggs, minced separately, and a dozen stoned olives;

SAUCES AND DRESSIJSrGS— SALADS. 1 53

mix all the ingredients well together, reserving the olives and anchovies to oma^
ment the top of the bowl; beat up together oil and Tarragon vinegar with white
pepper and French mustard to taste; pour this over the salad and serve.

HAM SALAD.

Take cold boiled ham, fat and lean together, chop it until it is thoroughly
mixed, and the pieces are about the size of peas; then add to this an equal quan-
tity of celery cut fine; if celery is out of season, lettuce may be substituted..
Line a dish thickly vdth lettuce-leaves and fill with the chopped ham and celery.
Make a dressing the same as for cold slaw and turn over the whole. Very
fine.

CRAB SALAD*

Boil three dozen hard-shell crabs twenty-five minutes; drain and let them
cool gradually; remove the upper shell and the tail, break the remainder apart
and pick out the meat carefully. The laige claws should not be forgotten, for
they contain a dainty morsel, and the creamy fat attached to the upper shell
should not be overlooked. Line a salad-bowl with the small white leaves of two
heads of lettuce, add the crab meat, pour over it a Mayonnaise garnish with
crab clavTs, hard-boiled eggs, and little mounds of cress-leaves, which may be
mixed vnth the salad when served.

COLD SLAW.

Select the finest head of bleached cabbage— that is to say, one of the finest
and most compact of the more delicate varieties; cut up enough into shreds to
fill a large vegetable-dish or salad-bowl— that to be regulated by the size of the
cabbage and the quantity required; shave very fine, and after that chop up, the
more thoroughly the better. Put this into a dish in which it is to be served,
after seasoning it well with salt and pepper. Turn over it a dressing made as-
for cold slaw; mix it well, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs.

PLAIN COLD SLAW.

Slice cabbage very fine; season vdth salt, pepper and a httle sugar; pour
over vinegar and mix thoroughly. It is nice served in the centre of a platter
with fried oysters around it.

HOT SLAW.

Cut the cabbage as for cold slaw; put it into a stew-pan, and set it on the top
of the stove for half an hour, or till hot all through; do not let it boil. Then
make a dressing the same as for cold slaw, and, while hot, pour it over the hot.

154 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS.

cabbage. Stir it until well mixed and the cabbage looks coddled. Serve imme-
diately.

TOMATO SALAD.

Peel and slice twelve good, somid, fresh tomatoes; the slices about a quarter
of an inch thick. Set them on the ice or in a refrigerator while you make the
dressing. Make the same as ^^ Mayonnaise," or you may use ^^ Cream dress-
ing.'* Take one head of the broad-leaved variety of lettuce, wash, and arrange
fhem neatly around the sides of a salad bowl. Place the cold, sUced tomatoes in
the centre. Pour over the dressing and serve.

ENDIVE.

This ought to be nicely blanched and crisp, and is the most wholesome of all
salads. Take two, cut away the root, remove the dark-green leaves, and pick
off aU the rest; wash and drain well, add a few chives. Dress with Mayonnaise
dressing.

Endive is extensively cultivated for the adulteration of coffee; is also a fine
relish, and has broad leaves. Endive is of the same nature as chiccory, the
leaves being curly.

CELERY SALAD.

Prepare the dressing the same as for tomato salad; cut the celery into bits
half an inch long, and season. Serve at once before the vinegar injures the
crispness of the v^etable.

LETTUCE SALAD.

Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and salt and mustard to taste;
mash it fine; make a paste by adding a dessertspoonful of ohve oil or melted
butter (use butter always when it is difficult to get fresh oil); mix thoroughly,
and then dilute by adding gradtuilly a teacupf ul of vinegar, and pour over the
lettuce. Oamish by slicing another egg and laying over the lettuce. This is
sufficient for a moderate-sized dish of lettuce.

POTATO SALAD, HOT.

Pare six or eight large potatoes, and boil till done, and slice thin while hot;
peel and cut up three large onions, into small bits and mix with the potatoes;
cut up some breakfast bacon into small bits, sufficient to fill a teacup; and fry it
a light brown; remove the meat, and into the grease stir three tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, making a sour gravy, which with the bacon pour over the potato and
onion; mix lightly. To be eaten when hot.

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 1 5 5

POTATO SALAD, COLD.

Chop cold boiled potatoes fine, with enough raw onions to season nicely;
make a dressing as for lettuce salad, and pour over it.

BEAN SALAD.

String young beans; break into half-inch pieces or leave whole; wash and
cook soft in salt water; drain well; add finely chopped onions, pepper, salt and
vinegar; when cool, add olive oil or melted butter.

TO DRESS CUCUMBERS RAW.

They should be as fresh from the vine as possible, few vegetables being more
unwholesome when long gathered. As soon as they are brought in, lay them in
cold water. Just before they are to go to table take them out, pare them and
slice them into a pan of fresh cold water. When they are all sliced, transfer
them to a deep dish; season them with a little salt and black pepper, and pour
over them some of the best vinegar. You may mix with them a small quantity
of sliced onions, not to be eaten, but to communicate a slight flavor of onion to
the vinegar.

CELERY UNDRESSED.

Celery is sometimes seat to the table without dressing. Scrape the outside
stalks, and cut off the green tops and the roots; lay it in cold water until near
the time to serve, then change the water, in which let it stand three or four
minutes; split the stalks in three, with a sharp knife, being careful not to break
them, and serve in goblet-shaped salad glasses.

To crisp celery, let it lie in ice-water two hours before serving; to fringe the
stalks, stick several coarse needles into a cork, and draw the stalk half way from
the top through the needles several times and lay in the refrigerator fco curl and
crisp.

RADISHES.

All the varieties are generally served in the same manner, by scraping and
placing on the table in glasses containing some cold water to keep them fresh
looking.

PEPPERGRASS AND CRESS.

These are used mostly as an appetizer, served simply with salt. Cresses are
occasionally used in making salad.

156 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— C A TSUFS.

HORSE-RADISH.

Horse-radish is an agreeable relish, and has a particularly fresh taste in th&i
spring; is scraped fine or grated, and set on the table in a small covered cup;,
much that is bottled and sold as horse-radish is adulterated with grated turnip.

LETTUCE.

Wash each leaf separately, breaking them from the head; crisp in ice- water
and serve the leaves whole, to be prepared at table, providing hard-boiled eggs,
cut in halves or slices, oil and other ingredients, to be mixed at table to individual,
taste.

Catsups.

TOMATO CATSUP. No. 1.

Put into two quarts of tomato-pulp (or two cans of canned tomatoes) one^
onion, cut fine, two tablespoonfuls of salt and three tablespoonfuls of brown
sugar. Boil until quite thick; then take from the fire and strain it through a.
sieve, working it until it is all through but the seeds. Put it back on the stove,
and add two tablespoonfuls of mustard, one of allspice, one of black pepper, and.
one of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of ground cloves, half a teaspoonful of .
cayenne pepper, one grated nutmeg, one pint of good vinegar; boil it until it>
will just run from the mouth of a bottle. It should be watched, stirred often,
that it does not bum. If sealed tight while hot^ in large-mouthed bottles^ it will,
keep good for years.

TOMATO CATSUP. No. 2.

Cook one gallon of choice ripe tomatoes; strain them, and cook again until,
they become quite thick. About fifteen minutes before taking up put into them,
a small level teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one tablespoonful of mustard seed,
half a tablespoonful of whole cloves, one tablespoonful of whole allspice, tied all
in a thin musUn bag. At the same time, add one heaping tablespoonful of
sugar, and one teacupful of best vinegar, and salt to suit the taste. Seal up air-
tight, either in botties or jugs. This is a valuable Southern recipe.

GREEN TOMATO CATSUP.

One peck of green tomatoes, and two large onions, sliced. Place them izk
layers, sprinkling salt between; let them stand twenty-four hours and theik

SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— CATSUPS. 157

drain ihem. Add a quarter of a pound of mustard seed, one ounce allspice, one
ounce doveSy one ounce ground mustard, one ounce ground ginger, two table-
spoonfuls black pepper, two teaspoonf uls celery seed, a quarter of a poimd of
brown sugar. Put all in preserving-pan, cover with vinegar, and boil two
hours; then stram through a sieve and bottle for use.

WALNUT CATSUP.

One hundred walnuts, six ounces of shalots, one head of garlic, half a pound
of salt, two quarts of vinegar, two ounces of anchovies, two ounces of pepper, a
quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves; beat in a large mortar
a himdred green walnuts until they are thoroughly broken; then put them into
a jar with six ounces of shalots cut into pieces, a head of garUc, two quarts of
vinegar and the half pound of salt; let them stand for a fortnight, stirring
them twice a day. Strain off the liquor, put into a stew-pan with the anchovies,
whole pepper, half an ounce of cloves and a quarter of an oimce of mace; boil it
half an hour, skimming it well. Strain it off, and when cold, pour it dear from
any sediment into small bottles, cork it down dosely and store it in a dry place.
The sediment can be used for flavoring sauces.

OYSTER CATSUP.

One pint of oyster meats, one teacupful of sherry, a tablespoonf ul of salt, a
teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, the same of powdered mace, a gill of cider
vinegar.

Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a pint measure;
save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with the sherry; strain the oysters^
and chop them fine with the salt, cayenne and mace, until reduced to a pulp;
then add it to the hquor in which they were scalded; boil it again five minutes,
and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and when cold^ bottle and cork
dosely. The corks should be sealed.

MUSHROOM CATSUP.

Use the larger kind, known as umbrellas or "fiaps.'^ They must be very
fresh and not gathered in very wet weather, or the catsup will be less apt to
keep. Wash and cut them in two to four pieces, and place them in a wide,
flat jar or crock in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt, and let them stand for
twenty-foiu* hoims; take them out and press out the juice, when bottle and
cork; put the mushrooms back again, and in another twenty-four hours press
them again; bottle and cork; repeat this for the third time, and then mi-r

158 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— CA TS UPS.

together all the juice extracted; add to it pepper, allspice, one or more doves
according to quantity, poimded together; boil the whole, and skim as long as
any scum rises; bottle when cool; put in each bottle two doves and a pepper-
corn. Cork and seal, put in a dry place, and it will keep for years.

GOOSEBERRY CATSUP.

Ten pounds of fruit gathered just before ripening, five pounds of sugar, one
quart of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls each of ground black pepper, allspice, and
cinnamon. Boil the fruit in vinegar until reduced to a pulp, then add sugar and
the other seasoning. Seal it hot.

Grape catsup is made in the same manner.

CUCUMBER CATSUP.

Take cucumbers suitable for the table; ped and grate them, salt a little, and
put in a bag to drain over night; in the morning season to taste with salt, pepper
and vinegar, put in small jars and seal tight for fall or winter use.

CURRANT CATSUP.

Foin* pounds of currants, two pounds of sugar, one pint of vinegar, one tea-
spoonful of doves, a tablespoonful of dnnamon, pepper and allspice. Boil in a
porcelain sauce-pan until thoroughly cooked. Strain through a sieve, all but
the skins; boil down until just thick enough to run freely from the mouth of a
bottle when cold. Cork and set aside.

APPLE CATSUP.

Peel and quarter a dozen sound, tart apples; stew them until soft, in as little
water as possible, then pass them through a sieve. To a quart of the sifted
apple, add a teacupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of pepper, one of doves, one of
mustard, two of dnnamon, and two medium-sized onions, chopped very fine.
Stir all together, adding a tablespoonful of salt and a pint of vinegar. Place
over the fire and boil one hour, and bottle while hot; seal very tight. It should
be about as thick as tomato catsup, so that it will just run from the bottle.

CELERY VINEGAR.

A quart of fresh celery, chopped fine, or a quarter of a pound of celery seed;
one quart of best vinegar; one tablespoonful of salt, and one of white sugar.
Put the celery or seed into a jar, heat the vinegar, sugar and salt; pour it boiling
hot over the cdery, let it cool, cover it tightly and set away. In two weeks
strain and bottle.

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS^PICKLES. 1 59

SPICED VINEGAR.

Take one quart of dder vinegar, put into it half an ounce of celery seed, one-
third of an ounce of dried mint, one-third of an ounce of dried parsley, one
garlic, three small onions, three whole cloves, a teaspoonful of whole pepper-
corns, a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt to taste, and a tablespoonful of
sugar; add a tablesi)oonful of good brandy. Put all into a jar, and cover it well;
let it stand for three weeks, then strain and bottle it well. Useful for flavoring
salad and other dishes.

ipicMes*

Pickles should never be put into vessels of brass, copper or tin, as the action
of the acid on such metals often results in poisoning the pickles. Porcelain or
granite-ware is the best for such purposes.

Vinegar that is used for pickling should be the best cider or white- wine, and
should never be boiled more than five or six minutes, as it reduces its strength.
In putting away pickles, use stone or g}ass jai^; the glazing on common earthen-
ware is rendered injurious by the action of the vinegar. When the jar is nearly
filled with the pickles, the vinegar should completely cover them, and if there
is any appearance of their not doing well, tmm off the vinegar, cover with fresh
vinegar, and spices. Alum in small quantities is useful in making them firm
and crisp. In using ground spices, tie them up in muslin bags.

To green pickles, put green grape-vine leaves or green cabbage leaves
between them when heating. Another way is to heat them in strong ginger
tea. Pickles should be kept closely covered, put into glass jars and sealed
tightly.

" Turmeric '' is India saffron, and is used very much in pickling as a coloring.

A piece of horse-radish put into a jar of pickles wiU keep the vinegar from
losing its strength, and the pickles will keep sound much longer, especially
tomato pickles.

CUCUMBER PICKLES.

Select the medium, small-sized cucimibers. For one bushel make a brine that
will bear up an egg; heat it boiling hot and pour it over the cucumbers; let them
stand twenty-four hours, then wipe them dry; heat some vinegar boiling hot,
and pour over them, standing again twenty-four hours. Now change the vine-

1 60 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS—PICKLES.

gar^ putting on fresh yinegar^ adding one quart of brown sugar^ a pint of white
mustard seed^ a small handful of whole doves, the same of cinnamon sticks, a
piece of alum the size of an egg, ha ^^ a cup of celery seed; heat it all boiling hot
and pour over the cucumbers.

SLICED CUCUMBER PICKLE.

Take one gallon of medium-sized cucumbers, put them into a J€ur or paiL
Put into enough hoUing water to cover them a small handful of salt, turn it over
them and cover closely; repeat this three mornings, and the fourth morning
scald enough cider vinegar to cover them, putting into it a piece of alimi as
lai^e as a walnut, a teacup of horse-radish root cut up fine; then tie up in a small
muslin bag, one teaspoonful of mustard, one of ground doves, and one of cinna-
mon. Shoe up the cucumbers half of an inch thick, place them in glass jars
and pour the scalding vinegar over them. Seal tight and they will keep good a

year or more.

— Mbs. Lydia 0. Weight, South Vernon, Vermont.

CUCUMBER PICKLES. (For Winter Use.)

A good way to put down cucumbers, a few at a time:

When gathered from the vines, wash, and put in a firkin or half barrel
layers of cucumbers and rock-salt alternately, enough salt to make sufiident
brine to cover them, no water; cover with a doth; keep them under the brine
with a heavy board; take oflf the cloth, and rinse it every time you put in fresh
cucumbers, as a scum will rise and settle upon it. Use plenty of salt and it will
keep a year. To prepare pickles for use, soak in hot water, and keep in a warm
place imtil they ai'e fresh enough, then pour spiced vinegar over them and let
them stand over night, then pom* that off and put on fresh.

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES. (Sweet.)

One peck of green tomatoes, sliced the day before you are ready for pickUng,
sprinkling them through and through with salt, not too heavily; in the morning
drain off the liquor that will drain from them. Have a dozen good-sized onions
rather coarsely sliced; take a sm'table kettle and put in a layer of the sliced
tomatoes, then of onions, and between each layer sprinkle the following spices:
Six red peppers chopped coarsdy, one cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of ground
allspice, one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, a teaspoonful of cloves, one
tablespoonful of mustard. Tiun over three pints of good vin^ar, or enough to
completdy cover them; boil imtil tender. This is a choice recipe.

SA UCES AND DJ^ESSINGS— PICKLES. 1 6 1

If the flavor of onions is objectionable, the pickle is equally as good without
'them.

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES. (Sour.)

Wash and sKce, without peeling, one peck of sound green tomatoes, put
them into a jar in layers with a slight sprinkling of salt between. This may be
done over night; in the morning drain off the Uquor that has accimiulated.
Have two dozen medium-sized onions peeled and sliced, also six red peppers
■chopped fine. Make some spiced vinegar by boiling for half an hour a quart of
cider vinegar with whole spices in it. Now take a porcelain kettle and place in it
some of the sliced tomatoes, then some of the sliced onions; shake in some black
pepper and some of the chopped red peppers; pour over some of the spiced vine-
gar; then repeat with the tomatoes, onions, etc., until the kettle is full; cover
with cold, pure, cider vinegar, and cook imtil tender, but not too soft. Turn into
a jar well-covered, and set in a cool place.

PICKLED MUSHROOMS.

Sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms; to each quart of mushrooms two
blades pounded mace, one ounce ground pepper, salt to taste. Choose some nice
young button-mushrooms for pickling, and rub off the skin with a piece of
flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks; if very large, take out the xed inside,
and reject the black ones, as they are too old. Put them in a stew-pan, sprinkle
salt over them, with pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake
them well over a dear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until it is
all dried up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; just let it
simmer for one minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold, tie
down with bladder, and keep in a dry place; they will remain good for a length
of time, and are generally considered excellent for flavoring stews and other
dishes.

PICKLED CABBAGE. (Purple.)

Out a sound cabbage into quarters, spread it on a large flat platter or dish
and sprinkle thickly with salt; set it in a cool place for twenty-four hours; then
drain off the brine, wipe it dry and lay it in the sun two hours, and cover with
cold vinegar for twelve hours. Prepare a pickle by seasoning enough vinegar
to cover the cabbage with equal quantities of mace, allspice, cinnamon and black
pepper, a cup of sugar to every gallon of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of celery
seed to every pint. Pack the cabbage in a stone jar; boil the vinegar and spices
five minutes and pour on hot. Cover and set away in a cool, dry place. It will be
good in a month. A few slices of beet-root improves the color.

1 62 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES.

PICKLED WHITE CABBAGE.

This recipe recommends itself as of a delightful flavor^ yet easily made, and
a convenient substitute for the old-fashioned, tedious method of pickling the
same vegetable. Take a peck of quartered cabbage, put a layer of cabbage and
one of salt, let it remain over iiight; in the morning squeeze them and put them
on the fire, with four chopped onions covered with vinegar; boil for half an
hour, then add one ounce of turmeric, one gill of black pepper, one gill of celery
seed, a few cloves, one tablespoonful of allspice, a few pieces of ginger, half an
ounce of mace, and two poimds of brown sugar. Let it boil half an hour longer,
and when cold it is fit for use. Four tablespoonf uls of made mustard should b»
added with the other ingredients.

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER.

Break the heads into small pieces, and boil ten or fifteen minutes in salt and
water; remove from the water and drain carefully. When cold, place in a jar,
and pour over it hot vinegar, in which has been scalded a liberal supply of whole
cloves, pepper, allspice and white mustard. Tie the spices in a bag, and, on
removing the vinegar from the fire, stir into each quart of it two teaspoonfuls
of French mustard, and half a cup of white sugar. Cover tightly and be sure
to have the vinegar cover the pickle.

PICKLED GREEN PEPPERS.

Take two dozen large, green, bell peppers, extract the seeds by cutting a slit
in the side (so as to leave them whole). Make a strong brine and pour over
them; let them stand twenty-four hours. Take them out of the brine, and soak
them in water for a day and a night; now turn off this water and scald some
vinegar, in which put a small piece of alum, and pour over them, letting them
stand three days. Prepare a stufSng of two hard heads of white cabbage,
chopped fine, seasoned slightly with salt and a cup of white mustard seed; mix
it well and stuff the peppers hard and full; stitch up, place them in a stone jar»
and pour over spiced vinegar scalding hot. Cover tightly.

GREEN PEPPER MANGOES.

Select firm, soimd, green peppers, and add a few red ones, as they are oma-^
mental and look well upon the table. With a sharp knife remove the top, take
out the seedy soak over night in salt water, then fill with chopped cabbage and
green tomatoes, seasoned with salt, mustard seed and ground cloves. Sew on

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES. 1 63

the top. Boil vinegar sufficient to cover them, with a cup of brown sugar^ and
pour over the mangoes. Do this three mornings, then seal.

CHOWCHOW. (Superior EngUsh Recipe.)
This excellent pickle is seldom made at home, as we can get the imported
article so much better than it can be made from the usual recipes. This we
vouch for as being as near the genuine article as can be made: One quart of
young, tiny cucumbers, not over two inches long, two quarts of very small white
onions, two quarts of tender string beans, each one cut in halves, three quarts of
green tomatoes, sliced and chopped very coarsely, two fresh heads of cauliflower,
cut into smaU pieces, or two heads of white, hard cabbage.

After preparing these articles, put them in a stone jar, mix them together,
sprinkling salt between them sparingly. Let them stand twenty-four hom-s,
then drain off aJl the brine that has accumulated. Now put these vegetables in
a preserving kettle over the fire, sprinkling through them an ounce of turmeric
for coloring, six red peppers, chopped coarsely, four tablespoonfuls of mustard
seed, two of celery seed, two of whole allspice, two of whole cloves, a coffee cup
of sugar, and two-thirds of a teacup of best ground mixed mustard. Pour on
enough of the best cider vinegar to cover the whole well; cover tightly and
simmer all well until it is cooked all through and seems tender, watching and
stirring it often. Put in bottles or glass jars. It grows better as it grows
older, especially if sealed when hot.

PICKLED ONIONS.

Peel small onions until they are white. Scald them in salt and water until
tender, then take them up, put them into wide-mouthed bottles, and pour over
them hot spiced vinegar; when cold, cork them close. Keep in a dry, dark
place. A tablespoonf ul of sweet oil may be put in the bottles before the cork.

■

The best sort of onions for pickling are the small white buttons.

PICKLED MANGOES.

Let the mangoes, or young musk-melons, he in salt water strong enough to*
bear an egg, for two weeks; then soak them in pure water for two days, chang-
ing the water two or three times; then remove the seeds and put the mangoes,
in a kettle, first a layer of grape leaves, then mangoes, and so on until all are in,
covering the top with leaves; add a lump of alum the size of a hickory nut;,
pour vinegar over them and boil them ten or fifteen minutes; remove the leaves
and let the pickles stand in this vinegar for a week; then stuff them with the fol-
lowing mixture: One pound of ginger soaked in brine for a day or two, and cut

164 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES.

in slices, one ounce of black pepper, one of mace, one of allspice, one of turmeric,
half a pound of garlic, soaked for a day or two in brine, and then dried; one
pint grated horse-radish, one of black mustard seed and one of white mustard
«eed; bruise all the spices and mix with a teacup of pure olive oil; to each
mango add one teaspoonful of brown sugar; cut one solid head of cabbage fine;
add one pint of small onions, a few small cucumbers and green tomatoes; lay
'them in brine a day and a night, then drain them well and add the imperfect
mangoes chopped fine and the spices; mix thoroughly, stuff the mangoes and tie
"them; put them in a stone jar and pour over them the best cider vin^ar; set
'them in a bright, dry place until they are canned. In a month add three
poimds of brown sugar; if this is not sufficient, add more until agreeable to
i^aste. This is for four dozen mangoes.

PICKLE OF RIPE CUCUMBERS.

This is a French recipe, and is the most excellent of all the high-flavored
<x)ndiments; it is made by sun-drying thirty old, fuU-grown cucumbers, which
Lave first been pared and spUt, had the seeds taken out, been salted, and let
stand twenty-foiu: hours. The sun should be permitted to drtfj not simply drain
them. When they are moderately dry, wash them with vinegar, and place
them in layers in a jar, alternating them with a layer of horse-radish, mustard
•seed, garhc, and onions, for each layer of cucumbers. Boil in one quart of vine-
,gar, one ounce of race-ginger, half an ounce of allspice, and the same of turmeric;
'when cool pour this over the cucimibers, tie up tightly, and set away. This pickle
requires several months to mature it, but is delicious when old, keeps admira-
Jbly, and only a little is needed as a relish.

PICKLED OYSTERS.

One gallon of oysters; wash them weU in their own liquor; carefully dear
;sway the particles of shell, then put them into a kettle, strain the Uquor over
them, add salt to your taste, let them just come to the boiling pobit, or until the
edges curl up; then skim them out and lay in a dish to cool; put a sprig of mace
•and a little cold pepper; and allow the hquor to boil some time, sTrimming it
now and then so long as any scum rises. Pour it into a pan and let it cool.
When perfectly cool, add a half pint of strong vinegar, place the oysters in a jar
^md pour the liquor over them.

RIPE CUCUMBER PICKLES. (Sweet.)

Pare and seed ripe cucumbers. SUce each cucumber lengthwise into four
pieces, or cut it into fancy shapes as preferred. Let them stand twenty-four

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES. 1 65

hours covered with cold vinegar. Drain them; then put them into fresh vine-
gar, with two poirnds of sugar and one ounce of cassia buds to one quart of
vinegar, and a tablespoonful of salt. Boil all together twenty minutes. Cover
them closely in a jar.

PICCALILI.

One peck of green tomatoes; eight large onions, chopped fine, with one cup
of salt well stirred in. Let it stand over night; in the morning drain off aU the
hquor. Now take two quarts of water and one of vinegar, boil all together
twenty minutes. Drain all through a sieve or colander. Put it back into the
kettle again; turn over it two quarts of vinegar, one pound of sugar, half a
pound of white mustard seed, two tablespoonfuls of ground pepper, two of cin-
namon, one of cloves, two of ginger, one of allspice, and half a teaspoonful of
cayenne pepper. Boil all together fifteen minutes, or until tender. Stir it often
to prevent scorching. Seal in glass jars.

A most delicious accompaniment for any kind of meat or fish.

— Mtb. 8U Johns*

PICKLED EGGS.

Pickled eggs are very easily prepared and most excellent as an accompani-
ment for cold meats. Boil quite hard three dozen eggs, drop in cold water and
remove the shells, and pack them when entirely cold in a wide-mouthed jar,
large enough to let them in or out without breaking. Take as much vinegar as
you think will cover them entirely, and boil in it white pepper, allspice, a httle
root-ginger; pack them in stone or wide^mouthed glass jars, occasionally putting
in a tablespoonful of white and black mustard seed mixed, a small piece of race
ginger, garlic, if liked, horse-radish migrated, whole cloves, and a very little
allspice. Slice two or three green peppers, and add in very small quantities.
They will be fit for use in eight or ten days.

AN ORNAMENTAL PICKLE-

Boil fresh eggs half an hour, then put them in cold water. Boil red beets
until tender, peel and cut in dice form, and cover with vinegar, spiced; sheU the
eggs and drop into the pickle jar.

EAST INDIA PICKLE.

Lay in strong brine for two weeks, or until convenient to use them, small
cucumbers, very small conunon white onions, snap beans, gherkins, hard white
cabbage quartered, plruns, peaches, pears, lemons, green tomatoes and anything
else you may wish. When ready, take them out of the brine and simmer in

1 66 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES.

pure water until tender enough to stick a straw through— if still too salt, soak
in clear water; drain thoroughly and lay them in vinegar in which is dissolved
one ounce of turmeric to the gallon. For five gallons of pickle, take two ounces
of mace, two of doves, two of cinnamon, two of allspice, two of celery seed, a
quarter of a pound of white race ginger, cracked fine, half a povmd of white
mustard seed, half a pint of small red peppers> quarter of a pound of grated
horse-radish, half a pint of flour mustard, two ounces of turmeric, half a pint of
garlic, if you like; soak in two gallons of dder vinegar for two weeks, stirring
daily. After the pickles have lain in the turmeric vinegar for a week, take them
out and put in jars or casks, one layer of pickle and one of spice out of the vine-
gar, till all is used. If the turmeric vinegar is still good and strong, add it and
the spiced vinegar. If the turmeric vinegar be much diluted, do not use it, but
add enough fresh to the spiced to cover the pickles; put it on the fire with a
pound of brown sugar to each gallon; when boiling, pour over the pickle. Bepeat
this two or three times as your taste may direct.

MIXED PICKLES.

Scald in salt water until tender, cauliflower heads, small onions, peppers,
cucumbers cut in dice, nasturtiums and green beans; then drain tmtil dry, and
pack into wide-mouthed bottles. Boil in each pint of cider vinegar one table-
spoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of mustard;
pour over the pickle and seal carefully. Other spices may be added if liked.

BLUE-BERRY PICKLES.

For blue-berry pickles, old jars which have lost their covers, or whose edges
have been broken so that the covers wiU not fit tightly, serve an excellent pm:-
I>ose, as these pickles must not be kept air-tight.

Pick over your berries, using only sound ones; fill your jars or wide-mouthed
bottles to within an inch of the top, then poiur in molasses enough to settle
down into aU the spaces; this cannot be done in a moment, as molasses does not
run very freely. Only lazy people will feel obliged to stand 'by and watch its
progress. As it settles, pom* in more imtil the hemes are covered. Then tie
over the top a piece of cotton cloth to keep the files and other insects out, and set
away in the preserve closet. Cheap molasses is good enough, and your pickles
will soon be '^ sharp. " Wild grapes may be pickled in the same manner.

PICKLED BUTTERNUTS AND WALNUTS.
These nuts are in the best state for pickling when the outside shell can be
penetrated by the head of a pin. Scald them, and rub off the outside skin, put

SA UCES AND DRESSINGS-^FICKLES. 167

them in a strong brine for six days, chan g in g the water every other day, keep-
ing them closely covered from the air. Then drain and wipe them, (piercing
each nut through in several places with a large needle,) and prepare the pickle
as follows: — For a hundred large nuts, take of black pepper and ginger root each
an ounce; and of cloves, mace and nutmeg each a half ounce. Poimd all the
spices to powder, and mix them well together, adding two large spoonfuls of
mustard seed. Put the nuts into jars, (having first stuck each of them through
in several places with a large needle,) strewing the powdered seasoning between
every layer of nuts. Boil for five minutes a gallon of the very best cider vine-
gar, and pour it boiling hot upon the nuts. Secure the jars closely with corks.
You may begin to eat the nuts in a fortnight.

WATERMELON PICKLE.

Ten poimds of watermelon rind boiled in pure water until tender; drain the
water off, and make a syrup of two pounds of white sugar, one quart of vinegar,
half an ounce of cloves, one ounce of cinnamon. The syrup to be poured over
the rind boiling hot three days in succession.

SWEET PICKLE FOR FRUIT.

Most of the recipes for making a sweet pickle for fruit, such as cling-stone
peaches, damsons, plim[is, cherries, apricots, etc., are so similar, that we give that
which is the most successfully used.

To every quart of fruit, allow a cup of white sugar and a large pint of good
cider vinegar, adding half an ounce of stick cinnamon, one tablespoonful of
whoU cloves, the same of whole allspice. Let it come to a boil, and pour it hot
over the fruit; repeat this two or three days in succession; then seal hot in glass
jars if you wish to keep it for a long time

The fmitj not the liquor, is to be eaten, and used the same as any pickle.
Some confound this with ^^ Spiced Fruit," which is not treated the same, one
being a pickle, the other a spiced preserve boiled down thick.

Damsons and plums should be pricked with a needle, and peaches washed
with a weak lye, and then rubbed with a coarse cloth to remove the fur.

PEAR PICKLE.

Select small, sound ones, remove the blossom end, stick them with a fork,
allow to each quart of pears one pint of cider vinegar and one cup of sugar, put
in a teaspoonful allspice, cinnamon and cloves to boil with the viD^ar ; then
add the pears and boil, and seal in jars.

1 68 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES.

SPICED CURRANTS.

Seven pounds of fruit, four pounds of sugar, one pint of good cider vinegar^
one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, one teaspoonful of doves. Put into a
kettle and boil until the fruit is soft; then skim out the fruit, putting it on dishes
until the syrup is boiled down thick. Turn the Emit back into the syrup again^
so as to heat it all through; then seal it hot in glass jars, and set it in a cool, dark
place.

Any tart fruit may be put up in this way, and is considered a very good
embellishment for cold meats.

SPICED PLUMS.

Seven pounds of plums, one pint of cider vinegar, four pounds of sugar, two
tablespoonfuls of broken cinnamon bark, half as much of whole cloves and the
same of broken nutmeg; place these in a muslin bag and simmer them in a little
vinegar and water for half an hour; then add it all to the vinegar and sugar, and
bring to a boil; add the plums, and boil carefully until they are cooked tender.
Before cooking the plums they should be pierced with a darning needle several
times; this will prevent the skins bursting while cooking.

SPICED GRAPES.

Take the pulp from the grapes, preserving the skins. Boil the pulp and rub
through a colander to get out the seeds; then add the skins to the strained pulp
and boil with the sugar, vinegar and spices. To every seven pounds of grapes
use four and one-half pounds of sugar, one pint of good vinegar. Spice quite
highly with ground cloves and allspice, with a little cinnamon.

PICKLED CHERRIES.

Select sound, large cherries, as large as you can get them; to every quart of
cherries allow a large cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a dozen
whole cloves, and half a dozen blades of mace; put the vinegar and sugar on to
heat with the spices; boil five minutes, turn out into a covered stoneware vessel;
cover and let it get perfectly cold; pack the cherries into jars, and pour the vine-
gar over them when cold; cork tightly and set away; they are fit for use almost
immediately.

'•fflp^ I *TJlfr* I *^jml^

CQ)V9 ' cxgy© e^gy©

Vegetables of all kinds should be thoroughly picked over, throwing out all
decayed or unripe parts, then well washed in several waters. Most vegetables^
when peeled, are better when laid in cold water a short time before cooking.
When partly cooked a little salt should be thrown into the water in which they
are boiled, and they should cook steadily after they are put on, not allowed to
stop boiling or simmering until they are thoroughly done. Every sort of
culinary vegetable is much better when freshly gathered and cooked as soon as
possible, and, when done, thoroughly drained, and served immediately while hot.

Onions, cabbage, carrots and turnips should be cooked in a great deal of
water, boiled only long enough to sufficiently cook them, and immediately
drained. Longer boiling makes them insipid in taste, and with too little water
they turn a dark color.

Potatoes rank first in importance in the vegetable line, and consequently
should be properly served. It requires some httle intelligence to cook even so^
simple and common a dish as boiled potatoes. In the first place, aU defective or
green ones should be cast out; a bad one will flavor a whole dish. If they are
not uniform in size, they should be made so by cutting after they are peeled.
The best part of a potato, or the most nutritious, is next to the skin, therefore
they should be pared very thinly, if at all; then, if old, the cores should be cut
out, thrown into cold water salted a httle, and boiled until soft enough for a fork
to pierce through easily; drain immediately, and replace the kettle on the fire
with the cover partly removed, until they are completely dried. New potatoes
should be put into boiling water, and when partly done salted a Uttle. They
should be prepared just in time for cooking, by scraping off the thin outside
skin. They require about twenty minutes to boil.

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.

Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, as they are never
good when they have been out of the ground some time. Well wash them, rub

170 VEGETABLES.

off the skins with a coarse cloth^ and put them in boUing water salted. I^t
them boil mitil tender; try them with a fork, and when done pour the water
away from them; let them stand by the side of the fire with the hd of the
sauce-pan partially removed, and' when the potatoes are thoroughly dry, put
them in a hot vegetable dish, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; pile the
potatoes over this, and serve. If the potatoes are too old to have the skins rubbed
off, boil them in their jackets; drain, peel and serve them as above, with a piece
of butter placed in the midst of them. They require twenty to thirty minutes
to cook. Serve them hot and plain, or with melted butter over them.

MASHED POTATOES.

Take the quantity needed, pare off the skins> and lay them in cold water half
an hour; then put theni into a sauce-pan, with a Uttle sal^t; cover with water and
boil them until done. Drain off the water and mash them fine with a potato-
masher. Have ready a piece of butter the size of an egg, melted in half a cup
of boiling hot milk, and a good pinch of salt; mix it well with the mashed
potatoes until they are a smooth paste, taking care that they are not too wet.
Put them into a vegetable dish, heap them up and smooth over the top, put a
small piece of butter on the top in the centre, and have dots of pepper here and
there on the surface as large as a half dime.

Some prefer using a heavy fork or wire-beater, instead of a potato-masher,
beating the potatoes quite light, and heaping them up in the dish without
smoothing over the top.

BROWNED POTATOES.

Mash them the same as the above, put them into a dish that they are to be
served in, smooth over the top, and brush over with the yolk of an egg, or spread
on a bountiful supply of butter and dust well with flour. Set in the oven to
brown; it will brown in fifteen minutes with a quick fire.

MASHED POTATOES, (Warmed Over.)

To two cupfuls of cold mashed potatoes, add a half cupful of milk, a pinch of
salt, a tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, and two ^gs beaten
to a froth. Mix the whole until thoroughly light; then put into a pudding or
vegetable dish, spread a little butter over the top, and bake a golden brown.
The quality depends upon very thoroughly beating the eggs before adding them,
so that the potato will remain Ught and porous after baking, similar to sponge-
cake.

VEGETABLES. 171

POTATO PUFFS.

Prepare the potatoes as directed for mashed potato. While hot^ shape in
balls about the size of an egg. Have a tin sheet well buttered, and place the
balls on it. As soon as all are done, brush over with beaten egg. Brown in
the oven. When done, slip a knife under them and slide them upon a hot
platter. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

POTATOES A LA CRfeME.

Heat a cupful of milk; stir in a heaping tablespoonful of butter cut up in as
much flour. Stir until smooth and thick; pepper and salt, and add two cupfuls
of cold boiled potatoes, sliced, and a little very finely chopped parsley. Shake
over the fire until the potatoes are hot aU thfough, and pour into a deep dish.

NEW POTATOES AND CREAM.

Wash and rub new potatoes with a coarse cloth or scrubbing-brush; drop
into boiling water and boil briskly until done, and no more; press a potato
against the side of the kettle with a fork; if done, it will yield to a gentle
pressure; in a sauce-pan have ready some butter and cream, hot, but not boil-
ing, a little green parsley, pepper and salt; drain the potatoes, add the mixture,
put over hot water for a minute or two, and serve.

SARATOGA CHIPS.

Peel good-sized potatoes, and slice them as evenly as possible. Drop them into
ice- water; have a kettle of very hot lard, as for cakes; put a few at a time into a
towel and shake, to dry the moisture out of them, and then drop them into the
boiling lard. Stir them occasionally, and when of a hght brown take them out
with a skimmer, and they will be crisp and not greasy. Sprinkle salt over them
while hot.

FRIED RAW POTATOES.

Peel half a dozen medium-sized potatoes very evenly, cut them in slices as
thin as an egg-shell, and be sure to cut them from the breadthy not the length,
of the potato. Put a tablespoonful each of butter and sweet lard into the
frying-pan, and as soon as it boils add the sliced potatoes, sprinkling over them
salt and pepper to season them. Cover them with a tight-fitting lid, and let the
steam partly cook them; then remove it, and let them fry a bright gold color,
shaking and turning them carefully, so as to brown equally. Serve very hot.

172 VEGETABLES.

Fried, cold, cooked potatoes may be fried by the same redpe, only slice them
a little thicker.

R&mark. — ^Boiled or steamed potatoes chopped up or sliced while they are
yet warm never fry so successfully as when cold.

SCALLOPED POTATOESr(Kentucky Style-)

Peel and slice raw potatoes thin, the same as for frying. Butter an earthen
dish, put in a layer of potatoes, and season with salt, pepper, butter, a bit of
onion chopped fine, if liked; sprinkle a little flour. Now put another layer of
potatoes and the seasoning. Continue in this way till the dish is filled. Just
before putting into the oven, pour a quart of hot milk over. Bake three quarters
of an hour.

Cold boiled potatoes may be cooked the same. It requires less time to bake
them; they are delicious either way. If the onion is disliked, it can be omitted.

STEAMED POTATOES.

This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue, particularly where
they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very convenient. Pare the potatoes,
throw them into cold water as they are peeled, then put them in a steamer.
Place the steamer over a sauce-pan of boiling water, and steam the potatoes
from twenty to forty minutes, according to the size and sort. When the fork
goes easily through them, they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve
veiy quickly.

POTATO SNOW.

Choose some mealy potatoes that will boil exceedingly white; pare them, and
cook them well, but not so as to be watery; drain them, and mash and season
them welL Put in the sauce-pan in which they were dressed, so as to keep
them as hot as possible; then press them through a wire sieve into the dish in
which they are to be served; strew a Uttle fine salt upon them previous to send-
,ing them to table: French cooks also add a small quantity of pounded loaf
sugar while they are being mashed.

HASTY COOKED POTATOES.

Wash and peel some potatoes; cut them into slices of about a quarter of an
inch in thickness; throw them into boiling salted water, and, if of good quality,
they will be done in about ten minutes.

Strain off the water, put the potatoes into a hot dish, chop them slightly, add
pepper, salt, and a few small pieces of fresh butter, and serve without loss of time.

VEGETABLES. 1 73

FAVORITE WARMED POTATOES.

The potatoes should be boiled wluiU with tJie skins on in plenty of water, well
salted, and are much better for being boiled the day before needed. Care should
be taken that they are not over cooked- Strip off the skins (not pare them with
a knife), and slice them nearly a quarter of an inch thick. Place them in a
chopping-bowl and sprinkle over them sufficient salt and pepper to season them
well; chop them all one way, then turn the chopping-bowl half way around,
and chop across them, cutting them into little square pieces, the shape of dice.
About twenty-five minutes before serving time, place on the stove a sauce-pan
(or any suitable dish) containing a piece of butter the size of an egg; when it
begins to melt and run over the bottom of the dish, put in a cup of rich sweet
milk. When this boils up, put in the chopped potatoes; there should be about
a quart of them; stir them a little so that they become moistened through with
the milk; then cover and place them on the back of the stove, or in a moderate
oven, where they will heat through gradually. When heated through stir care-
fully from the bottom with a spoon, and cover tightly again. Keep hot tmtil
ready to serve. Baked potatoes are very good warmed in this manner.

CRISP POTATOES.

Cut cold raw potatoes into shavings, cubes, or any small shape; throw them,
a few at a time, into boiling fat, and toss them about with a knife xmtil they
are a uniform Ught brown; drain and season with salt and pepper. Fat is never
hot enough while bubbling — ^when it is ready it is still and smoking, but should
never bum.

LYONNAISE POTATOES.

Take eight or ten good-sized cold boiled potatoes, slice them endwise, then

crosswise, making them hke dice in small squares. When you are ready to cook

them, heat some butter or good drippings in a frying-pan; fry in it one small

onion (chopped fine) until it begins to change color, and look yellow. Now put

in yom: potatoes, sprinkle well with salt and pepper, stir well and cook about

five minutes, taking care that you do not break them. Tfiey must not broum.

Just before taking up, stir in a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Drain dry by

shaking in a heated colander. Serve very hot.

— Delmonico.^

POTATO FILLETS.

Pare and slice the potatoes thin; cut them if you like in small fillets, about a
quarter of an inch square, and as long as the potato will admit; keep them in

1 74 VEGETABLES.

cold water until wanted, then drop them into boiling lard; when nearly done,
take them out with a skimmer and drain them, boil up the lard again, drop the
potatoes back and fry till done; this operation causes the fillets to swell up
and puff.

POTATO CROQUETTES. No. i.

Wash, peel and put four large potatoes in cold water, with a pinch of salt,
and set them oyer a brisk fire; when they are done pour off all the water and
mash them. Take another sauce-pan^ and put in it ten tablespoonfuls of milk
and a lump of butter half the size of an egg; put it over a brisk fire; as soon as
the milk comes to a boil, pour the potatoes into it, and stir them very fast with
a wooden spoon; when thoroughly mixed, take them from the fire and put them
on a dish. Take a tablespoonf ul and roll it in a dean towel, making it oval in
shape; dip it in a well-beaten egg, and then in bread-crumbs, and drop it in hot
drippings or lard. Proceed in this manner till all the potato is used, four
potatoes making six croquettes. Fry them a light brown all ovel:, turoing them
gently as may be necessary. When they are done, lay them on brown paper or
a hair sieve, to drain all fat off; then serve on a napkin.

POTATO CROQUETTES. No. 2.

Take two cups of cold mashed potato, season with a pinch of salt, pepper
and a tablespoonf ul of butter. Beat up the whites of two eggs, and work all
together thoroughly; make it into small balls slightly flattened, dip them in the
beaten yolks of the eggs, then roll either in flour or cracker-crumbs; fry the
same as fish-balls.

POTATOES A LA DELMONICO.

Cut the potatoes with a vegetable cutter into small balls about the size of a
marble; put them into a stew-pan with plenty of butter, and a good sprinkling
of salt; keep the sauce-pan covered, and shake occasionally until they are quite
done, which will be in about an hour.

FRIED POTATOES WITH EGGS.

Slice cold boiled potatoes, and fry in good butter until brown; beat up one or
two eggs, and stir into them just as you dish them for the table; do not leave
them a moment on the fire after the ^gs are in, for if they harden they are not
half so nice; one egg is enough for three or four persons, unless they are very
fond of potatoes; if they are, have plenty, and put in two.

VEGETABLES, 1 75

BAKED POTATOES.

Potatoes are either baked in their jackets or peeled; in either case they should
not be exposed to a fierce heat, which is wasteful, inasmuch as thereby a great
deal of vegetable is scorched and rendered uneatable. They should be fre-
quently turned while being baked, and kept from touching each other in the
oven or dish. When done in their skins, be particular to wash and brush them
before baking them. If convenient, they may be baked in wood-ashes, or in a
Dutch oven in front of the fire. When pared they should be baked in a dish,
and fat of some kind added to prevent their outsides from becoming burnt; they
are ordinarily baked thus as an accessory to baked meat.

Never serve potatoes, boiled or baked whole, in a closely covered dish. They
become sodden and clammy. Cover with a folded napkin that allows the steam
to escape, or absorbs the moisture. They should be served promptly when done,
and require about three-quarters of an hour to one hour to bskke them, if of a
good size.

BROWNED POTATOES WITH A ROAST. No. i.

About three quarters of an hour before taking up your roasts, peel middling-
sized potatoes, boil them until partly done, then arrange them in the roasting-
pan aroimd the roast, basting them with the drippings at the same time you do
the meat, browning then evenly. Serve hot with the meat. Many cooks partly
boil the potatoes before putting around the roast. "New potatoes are very good
cooked around a roast.

BROWNED POTATOES WITH A ROAST. No. 2.

Peel, cook and mash the required quantity, adding while hot a httle chopped
onion, pepper and salt; form it into smaU oval balls and dredge them with flour;
then place around the meat, about twenty minutes before it is taken from the
oven. When nicely browned, drain dry and serve hot with the meat.

SWEET POTATOES.

Boiled, steamed and baked the same as Irish potatoes; generally cooked with
their jackets on. Cold sweet potatoes may be cut in slices across or lengthwise,
and fried as common potatoes; or may be cut in half and served cold.

Boiled sweet potatoes are very nice. Boil until partly done, peel them and
bake brown, basting them with butter or beef drippings several times. Served
hot. They should be a nice brown.

176 VEGETABLES.

BAKED SWEET POTATOES.

Wash and scrape them, split them lengthwise. Steam or boil them mitH
nearly done. Drain, and put them in a baking-dish, placing over them lumps
of butter, pepper and salt; sprinkle thickly with sugar» and bake in the oyen to
a nice brown.

Hubbard squash is nice cooked in the same manner.

ONIONS BOILED.

The white silyer-skins are the best species. To boil them peel off the outside,
cut off the ends, put them into cold water and into a stew-pan, and let them scald
two minutes; then turn off that water, pour on cold water, salted a little, and
boil slowly till tender, which will be in thirty or forty minutes^ according to their
size; when done drain them quite dry, pour a little melted butter over them,
sprinkle them with pepper and salt and serve hot.

An excellent way to peel onions so as not to affect the eyes is to take a pan
fvU of water, and hold and peel them under the water.

ONIONS STEWED.

Cook the same as boiled onions, and when quite done turn off all the water;
add a teacupful of milk, a piece of butter the size of an egg, pepper and salt to
taste, a tablespoonful of flour stirred to a cream; let all boil up once and serve in
a vegetable dish, hot.

ONIONS BAKED.

Use the large Spanish onion, as best for this purpose; wash them dean, but
do not peel, and put into a sauce-pan, with slightly salted water; boil an hour,
replacing the water with more boiling hot as it evaporates; turn off the water,
and lay the onions on a doth to dry them well; roll each one in a piece of but-
tered tissue paper, twisting it at the top to keep it on, and bake in a slow oven
about an horn:, or until tender all through; peel them; place in a deep dish, and
brown slightly, basting well with butter for fifteen minutes; season with salt
and pepper, and pour some mdted butter over them.

FRIED ONIONS.

Peel, slice, and fry them brown in equal quantities of butter and lard or nice
drippings; cover until partly soft, remove the cover and brown them; salt and
pepper.

VEGETABLES. 1 77

SCALLOPED ONIONS.

Take eight or ten onions of good size, slice them, and boil until tender. Lay
them in a baking-dish, put in bread-crumbs, butter in small bits, pepper and salt,
between each layer until the dish is full, putting bread-crumbs last; add milk or
cream until full. Bake twenty minutes or half an hour

A little onion is not an injurious article of food, as many believe. A judicious
use of plants of the onion family is quite as important a factor in successful
cookery as salt and pepper. When carefully concealed by manipulation in food,
it affords zest and enjoyment to many who could not otherwise taste of it were
its presence known. A great many successful compounds derive their excellence
from the partly concealed flavor of the onion, which imparts a delicate appetiz-
ing aroma highly prized by epicures.

CAULIFLOWER.

When cleaned and washed, drop them into boiling water, into which you
have put salt and a teaspoonful of floin:, or a slice of bread; boil till tender; take
off, drain, and dish them; serve with a sauce spread over, and made with melted
butter, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, and vinegar.

Another way is to make a white sauce (see Sauces), and when the cauli-
flowers are dished as above, turn the white sauce over, and serve warm. They
may also be served in the same way with a milk, cream, or tomato sauce, or
with brown butter.

It is a very good plan to loosen the leaves of a head of cauliflower, and let lie,
the top downward in a pan of cold salt water, to remove any insects that might
be hidden between them.

FRIED CAULIFLOWER.

Boil the cauliflowers till about half done. Mix two tablespoonfuls of flour
with two yolks of eggs, then add water enough to make a rather thin paste;
add salt to taste; the two whites are beaten till stiff, and then mixed with the
yolks, flour and water. Dip each branch of the cauliflowers into the mixture,
and fxy them in hot fat. When done, take them off with a skimmer, turn into
a colander, dust salt all over, and serve warm. Asparagus, celery, egg-plant^
oyster plant are all fine when fried in this manner.

CABBAGE, BOILED.

Great care is requisite in cleaning a cabbage for boiling, as it frequently
harbors nrunerous insects. The large drum-head cabbage requires an hour to

1 78 VEGETABLES

boil; the green savory cabbage will boil in twenty minutes. Add considerable
salt to the water when boiling. Do not let a cabbage boil too long, — ^by a long
boiling it becomes watery. Remove it from the water into a colander to drain,
and serve with drawn butter, or butter poured over it.

Bed cabbage is used for slaw, as is also the white winter cabbage. For direc-
tions to prepare these varieties, see articles Slaw and Sour-Crout.

CABBAGE WITH CREAM.

Bemove the outer leaves from a sohd, small-sized head of cabbage, and cut
the remainder as fine as for slaw. Have on the fire a spider or deep skillet, and
when it is hot put in the cut cabbage, pouring over it right away a pint of boil-
ing water. Cover closely, and allow it to cook rapidly for ten minutes. Drain
off the water, and add half a pint of new milk, or part milk and cream; when
it boils, stir in a large teaspoonf ul of either wheat or rice flour, moistened with
milk; add salt and pepper, and as soon as it comes to a boil, serve. Those who
find slaw and other dishes prepared from cabbage indigestible, will not complain
of this.

STEAMED CABBAGE.

Take a sound, solid cabbage, and with a large sharp knife shave it very finely.
Put it in a sauce-pan, pour in half a teacupful of water or just enough to keep
it from burning; cover it very tightly, so as to confine the steam; watch it
closely, add a little water now and then, until it begins to be tender; then put
into it a large tablespoonful of butter; salt and pepper to taste, dish it hot. If
you prefer to give it a tart taste, just before taking from the fire add a third of
a cup of good vinegar.

LADIES' CABBAGE.

Boil a firm white cabbage fifteen minutes, changing the water then for more
from the boiling tea-kettle. When tender, drain and set aside until perfectly
cold. Chop fine and add two beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, pepper,
salt, three tablespoonfuls of rich milk or cream. Stir all well together, and bake
in a buttered pudding-dish until brown. Serve very hot. This dish resembles
cauliflower and is very digestible and palatable.

FRIED CABBAGE.

Place in a frying-pan an ounce of butter and heat it boiling hot. Then
take cold boiled cabbage chopped fine, or cabbage hot, cooked the same as
steamed cabbage, put it into the hot butter and fry a light brown, adding two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar. "Very good.

VEGETABLES. 1 79

FRENCH WAY OF COOKING CABBAGE.
Chop cold boiled white cabbage and let it drain till perfectly dry; stir in some
melted butter to taste; pepper, salt and fom* tablespoonfuls of cream; after it is
heated through add two well-beaten eggs; then turn the mixture into a buttered
frying-pan, stirring imtil it is very hot and becomes a delicate brown on the
under side. Place a hot dish over the pan, which must be reversed when turned
out to be served.

SOUR-CROUT.

Barrels having held wine or vinegar are used to prepare sour-crout in. It is
better, however, to have a special barrel for the purpose. Strasburg, as well as
all Alsace, has a well-acquired fame for preparing the cabbages. They slice very
white and firm cabbages in fine shreds with a machine made for the purpose.
At the bottom of a small barrel they place a layer of coarse salt, and alternately
layers of cabbage and salt, being careful to have one of salt on the top. As each
layer of cabbage is added, it must be pressed down by a large and heavy pestle,
and fresh layers are added as soon as the juice floats on the surface. The cab-
bage must be seasoned with a few grains of coriander, juniper berries, etc.
When the barrel is full it must be put in a dry cellar, covered with a doth,
under a p^mk, and on this heavy weights are placed. At the end of a few days
it will begin to ferment, during which time the pickle must be drawn off and
replaced by fresh, until the liquor becomes dear. This should be done every-
day. Benew the cloth and wash the cover, put the weights back, and let stand
for a month. By that time the somr-crout will be ready for use. Care must
be taken to let the least possible air enter the soiu--crout, and to have the cover
perfectly dean. Each time the barrel has to be opened it must be properly
dosed again. These precautions must not be neglected.

This is often fried in the same manner as fried cabbage, excepting it is first
boOed until soft in just water enough to cook it, then fry and add vinegar.

TO BOIL RICE.

Pick over the rice carefully, wash it in warm water, rubbing it between tho
hands, rinsing it in several waters, then let it remain in cold water xmtil ready
to be cooked. Have a sauce-pan of water slightly salted; when it is boiling
hard, pour oflf the cold water from the rice, and sprinkle it in the boiling water
by degrees, so as to keep the partides separated. Boil it steadily for twenty
minutes, then take it oflf from the fire, and drain oflf all the water. Place the
sauce-pan with the hd partly oflf, on the back part of the stove, where it is only

l8o VEGETABLES.

moderately warm, to allow the rice to dry. The moisture will pass off and each
grain of rice will be separated, so that if shaken the grains will fall apart. This
is the true way of serving rice as a vegetable, and is the mode of cooking it in
the southern States where it is raised.

PARSNIPS, BOILED.

Wash, scrape and split them. Put them into a pot of boiling water; add a
little salt, and boil them till quite tender, which wiQ be in from two to three
hours according to their size. Dry them in a doth when done and pour melted
butter or white sauce (see Sauces) over them in the dish. Serve them up with
any sort of boiled meat or with salt cod.

Parsnips are very good baked or stewed with meat.

FRIED PARSNIPS.

Boil tender in a little hot water salted; scrape, cut into long sUces, dredge
with flour ; fry in hot lard or dripping, or in butter and lard mixed; fry quite
brown. Drain off fat and serve.

Parsnips may be boiled and mashed the same as potatoes.

STEWED PARSNIPS,

After washing and scraping the parsnips slice them about half of an inch
thick. Put them in a sauce-pan of boiling water containing just enough to

barely cook them; add a tablespoonful of butter, season with salt and pepper, then
cover closely. Stew them until the water has cooked away, watching carefully
and stirring often to prevent burning, until they are soft. When they are done
they will be of a creamy light straw color and deUdously sweety retaining all the
goodness of the vegetable.

PARSNIP FRITTERS.

Boil four or five parsnips; when tender take off the skin and mash them fine;
add to them a teaspoonful of wheat fiour and a beaten egg; put a tablespoonful
of lard or beef drippings in a frying-pan over the fire, add to it a saltspoonf ul of
salt; when boiling hot put in the parsnips; make it in small cakes with a spoon;
when one side is a deUcate brown turn the other; when both are done take them
on a dish, put a very little of the fat in which they were fried over and serve hot.
These resemble very nearly the taste of the salsify or oyster plant, and will gen-
erally be preferred.

CREAMED PARSNIPS.
Boil tender, scrape, and slice lengthwise. Put over the fire with two table-
spoonfuls of butter, pepper and salt, and a little minced parsley. Shake imtil

VEGETABLES. l8l

the mixture boils. Dish the parsnips, add to the sauce three tablespoonfuls of
cream or milk, in which has been stirred a quarter of a spoonful of flour. Boil
once^ and pour over the parsnips.

STEWED TOMATOES.
Pour boiling water over a dozen sound ripe tomatoes; let them remain for a
few moments; then peel off the skins, slice them, and put them over the
fire in a weU-lined tin or granite ware sauce-pan. Stew them about
twenty minutes, then add a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to
taste; let them stew fifteen minutes longer; and serve hot. Some prefer to
thicken tomatoes with a little grated bread, adding a teaspoonful of sugar; and
others who like the flavor of onion chop up one and add while stewing; then
again some add as much green corn as there are tomatoes.

TO PEEL TOMATOES.

Put the tomatoes into a frying-basket, and plunge them into hot water for
three or four minutes. Drain and peel. Another way is to place them in a flat
baking-tin and set them in a hot oven about five minutes; this loosens the skins
so that they readily sUp off.

SCALLOPED TOMATOES.

Butter the sides and bottom of a pudding-dish. Put a layer of bread-crumbs
in the bottom; on them put a layer of sUced tomatoes; sprinkle with salt, pepper
and some bits of butter, and a very littU white sugar. Then repeat with another
layer of crumbs, another of tomato, and seasoning until full, having the top layer
of sUces of tomato, with bits of butter on each. Bake covered until well cooked
through; remove the cover and brown quickly.

STUFFED BAKED TOMATOES.

From the blossom-end of a dozen tomatoes — smooth, ripe and solid — cut a
thin slice, and with a small spoon scoop out the pulp without breaking the rind
surrounding it; chop a small head of cabbage and a good-sized onion finely,
and mix with them fine bread-crumbs and the pulp; season with pepper, salt
and sugar, and add a cup of sweet cream; when all is well mixed, fill the
tomato shells, replace the slices, and place the tomatoes in a buttered baking
dish, cut ends up, and put in the pan just enough water to keep from burning;
drop a small lump of butter on each tomato, and bake half an hour or so, till well
done; place another bit of butter on each, and serve in same dish. Very fine.

Another stuffing which is considered quite fine. Cut a sUce from the stem

1 82 VEGETABLES.

of each and scoop out the soft pulp« Mince one small onion and fry it slightly;
add a gill of hot water, the tomato pulp, and two ounces of cold veal or chicken
chopped fine, simmer slowly, and season with salt and pepper. Stir into the
pan cracker-dust or bread-crumbs enough to absorb the moisture; take off from
the fire and let it cool; stuff the tomatoes with this mass, sprinkle dry crumbs
oyer the top; add a small piece of butter to the top of each and bake until slightly
browned on top.

BAKED TOMATOES, (Plain.)

Peel and shoe quarter of an inch thick; place in layers in a pudding dish,
seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, butter, and a very httle white sugar.
Cover with a Ud or large plate, and bake half an hour. Bemove the Ud and
brown for fifteen minutes. Just before taking from the oven, pour over the
top three or four tablespoonf uls of whipped cream with melted butter.

TO PREPARE TOMATOES, (Raw.)

Carefully remove the peelings. Only perfectly ripe tomatoes should ever be
eaten raw, and if ripe the skins easily peel off. Scalding injures the flavor.
SUce thin, and sprinkle generously with salt, more sparingly with black pepper,
and to a dish holding one quart, add a light tablespoonf ul of sugar to give a
piquant zest to the whole. Lastly, add a gill of best cider vinegar; although, if
you would have a dish yet better suited to please an epicurean palate, you may
add a teaspoonful of made mustard and two tablespoonfuls of rich sweet cream.

FRIED AND BROILED TOMATOES.

Cut firm, large, ripe tomatoes into thick shoes, rather more than a quarter of
an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, dredge well with fiour, or roll in
egg and crumbs, and fry them brown on both sides evenly, in hot butter and
lard mixed. Or, prepare them the same as for frying, broiling on a well-
greased gridiron, seasoning afterward the same as beef streak. A good accom-
paniment to steak. Or, having prepared the following sauce, a pint of milk, a
tablespoonful of fiour and one beaten egg, salt, pepper and a very Uttle mace;
cream an ounce of butter, whisk inte it the milk and let it simmer imtO it
thickens; pour the sauce on a hot side-dish and arrange the tomatoes in the
centre.

SCRAMBLED TOMATOES.

Bemove the skins from a dozen tomatoes; cut them up in a sauce-pan; add a
little butter, pepper and salt; when sufficiently boiled, beat up five or six ^ggs.

VEGETABLES. 1 83

and just before you serve turn them into the sauce-pan with the tomatoes, and
stir one way for two minutes, allowing them time to be done thoroughly.

CUCUMBER A LA CR£mE.

Peel and cut into slices (lengthwise) some fine cucumbers. Boil them until
soft, salt to taste, and serve wifch delicate cream sauce.

For Tomato Salad, see " Salads," also for Eaw Cucmnbers,

FRIED CUCUMBERS.

Pare them and cut lengthwise in very thick sUces; wipe them dry with a
cloth; sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in lard and
butter, a td^blespoonf ul of each, mixed. Brown both sides and serve warm.

GREEN CORN, BOILED.

This should be cooked on the same day it is gathered; it loses its sweetness
in a few hoTirs and must be artificially supphed. Strip off the husks, pick out
all the silk and put it in boiling water; if not entirely fresh, add a tablespoonful
of sugar to the water, but no salt; boil twenty minutes, fast, and serve; or you
may cut it from the cob, put in plenty of butter and a little salt, and serve in a
covered vegetable dish. The com is much sweeter when cooked with the husks
on, but requires longer time to boil. Will generally boil in twenty minutes.

Green com left over from dinner makes a nice breakfast dish, prepared as
follows: Out the com from the cob, and put into a bowl with a cup of milk to
every cup of com, a half cup of flour, one egg, a pinch of salt, and a Uttle butter.
Mix well into a thick batter, and fry in small cakes in very hot butter. Serve
with plenty of butter and powdered sugar.

CORN PUDDING.

This is a Virginia dish. Scrape the substance out of twelve ears of tender,
green, uncooked com (it is better scraped than grated, as you do not get those

I husky particles which you cannot avoid with a grater); add yolks and whites,

beaten separately, of four eggs, a teaspoonf ul of sugar, the same of flour mixed

[ in a tablespoonful of butter, a small quantity of salt and pepper, and one pint of

^ milk. Bake about half or three quarters of an hour.

I STEWED CORN.

Take a dozen ears of green sweet com, very tender and juicy; cut off the
kernels, cutting with a large sharp knife from the top of the cob down; then
scrape the cob. Put the com into a sauce-pan over the fire, with just enough

1 84 VEGETABLES.

water to make it cook without burning; boil about twenty minutes, then add a
teacupful of milk or cream, a tablespoonful of cold butter, and season with pepper
and salt. Boil ten minutes longer, and dish up hot, in a vegetable dish. The
com would be much sweeter if the scraped cobs were boiled first in the water
that the com is cooked in.

Many like com cooked in this manner, putting half com and half tomatoes;
either way is very good.

FRIED CORN.

Cut the com off the cob, taking care not to bring off any of the husk with
it, and to have the grains as separate as possible. Fry in a httle butter— just
enough to keep it from sticking to the pan; stir very often. When nicely
browned, add salt and pepper, and a little rich cream. Do not set it near the
stove after the cream is added, as it will be apt to turn. This makes a nice
dinner or breakfast dish.

ROASTED GREEN CORN.

Strip off all the husk from green com, and roast it on a gridiron over a bright
fire of coals, turning it as one side is done. Or, if a wood fire is used, make a
place clean in front of the fire, lay the com down, turn it when one side is done;
serve with salt and bmtter

SUCCOTASH.

Take a pint of fresh shelled lima beans, or any large fresh beans, put them
in a pot with cold water, rather more than will cover them. Scrape the kernels
from twelve ears of young sweet com; ' put the cobs in with the beans, boiling
from half to three-quarters of an hour. Now take out the cobs and put in the
scraped com; boil again fifteen minutes, then season with salt and pepper to
taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and half a cup of cream. Serve hot.

FRIED EGG-PLANT.

Take fresh, purple egg-plants of a middling size; cut them in slices a quarter
of an inch thick, and soak them for half an hour in cold water, with a teaspoou-
ful of salt in it. Have ready some cracker or bread-crumbs and one beaten ^gg;
drain off the water from the slices, lay them on a napkin, dip them in the
crumbs and then in the e^, put another coat of crumbs on them, and fry them
in butter to a light brown. The frying-pan must be hot before the slices are put
in^ — they will fry in ten minutes.

You may pare them before you put them into the frying-pan, or you may

VEGETABLES. 185

pull the skills oflf when you take them up. You must not remove them from
the water until you are ready to cook them, as the air will turn them black.

STUFFED EGG-PLANT.

Cut the egg-plant in two; scrape out all the inside and put it in a sauce-pan
with a little minced ham; cover with water and boil until soft; drain oflf the
water; add two tablespoonfuls of grated crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, half
a minced onion, salt and pepper; stuflf each half of the hull with the mixture;
add a small lump of butter to each, and bake fifteen minutes

Minced veal or chicken in the place of ham, is equally as good, and many
prefer it.

STRING BEANS.

Break oflf the end that grew to the vine, drawing oflf at the same time the
string upon the edge; repeat the same process from the other end; cut them
with a sharp knife into pieces half an inch long, and boil them in just enough
water to c(yveT them. They usually require one hour's boiling; but this depends
uix>n their age and freshness. After they have boiled until tender, and the
water boiled nearly outy add pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of butter, and a
half a cup of cream; if you have not the cream, add more butter.

Many prefer to drain them before adding the seasoning; in that case they
lose the real goodness of the vegetable.

LIMA AND KIDNEY BEANS.

These beans should be put into boiling water, a little more than enough to
cover them, and boiled till tender— from half an hour to two hours; serve with
butter and salt upon them.

These beans are in season from the last of July to the last of September.
There ate several other varieties of beans, used as suiomer vegetables, which
are cooked as above.

For Baked Beans, see " Pork and Beans."

This is stewed the same as green com, by boiling, adding cream, butter, salt
and pepper.

STEWED SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT.

Wash the roots and scrape oflf their skins, throwing them, as you do so, into
cold water, for exposure to the air causes them to immediately turn dark. Then
cut crosswise into Uttle thin slices; throw into fresh water, enough to cover; add

1 86 VEGETABLES.

a little salt, and stew in a covered vessel until tender, or about one hour. Pour
off a little of the water, add a small lump of butter, a little pepper, and a gill of
sweet cream, and a teaspoonful of fiour stirred to a paste. Boil up and serve hot.
Salsify may be simply boiled, and melted butter turned over them.

FRIED SALSIFY.

Stew the salsify as usual till very tender; then with the back of a spoon or a
potato jammer, mash it very fine. Beat up an egg, add a teacupful of TnilTr^ a
little flour, butter and seasoning of pepper and salt. Make into little cakes, and
fry a light brown in boiling lard, first rolling in beaten egg and then flour.

BEETS BOILED.
Select small-sized, smooth roots. They should be carefully washed, but not
cut before boiUng, as the juice will escape and the sweetness of the vegetable be
impaired, leaving it white and hard. Put them into boiling water, and boil them
until tender; which requires often from one to two homrs. Do not probe them,
but press them with the finger to ascertain if they are suflidently done. When
satisfied of this, take them up, and put them into a pan of cold water, and slip
off the outside. Cut them into thin slices, and while hot season with butter,
salt, a Uttle pepper and very sharp vinegar.

BAKED BEETS.

Beets retain their sugary, delicate flavor to perfection if they are baked
instead of boiled. Turn them frequently while in the oven^ using a knife, as
the fork allows the juice to run out. When done remove the skin, and serve,
with butter, salt and pepper on the slices.

STEWED BEETS.
Boil them first, and then scrape and slice them. Put them into a stew-pan
with a piece of butter rolled in fiour, some boiled onion and parsley chopped fine,
and a little vinegar, salt and pepper. Set the pan on the fire, and let the beets
stew for a quarter of an hour.

OKRA.

This grows in the shape of pods, and is of a gelatinous character, much used
for soup, and is also pickled; it may be boiled as follows. Put the young and
tender pods of long white okra in salted boiling water in granite, porcelain or a
tin-lined saucepan— as contact with iron will discolor it; boil fifteen minutes;
remove the stems, and serve with butter, pepper, salt and vinegar if preferred.

VEGETABLES. \Z^

ASPARAGUS.

Scrape the stems of the asparagus lightly, but very clean; throw them into
cold water, and when they are all scraped and very clean, tie them in bunches
of equal size; cut the large ends evenly, that the stems may be all of the same
length, and put the asparagus into plenty of boiling water, weU salted. While
it is boiling, cut several slices of bread half an inch thick, pare off the crust, and
toast it a delicate brown on both sides. When the stalks of the asparagus are
tender, (it will usually cook in twenty to forty minutes), lift it out directly, or it
wiU lose both its color and flavor, and wiU also be liable to break; dip the toast
quickly into the liquor in which it was boiled, and dish the vegetable upon it,
the heads all lying one way. Pour over white sauce, or melted butter.

ASPARAGUS WITH EGGS.

Boil a bunch of asparagus twenty minutes; cut off the tender tops and lay
them in a deep pie plate, buttering, salting and peppering well. Beat up four
eggs, the yolks and whites separately, to a stiff froth; add two tablespoonfuls of
milk or cream, a tablespoonful of warm butter, pepper and salt to taste. Pour
evenly over the asparagus mixture. Bake eight minutes or until the eggs are
set. Very good.

GREEN PEAS.

Shell the peas and wash in cold water. Put in boiling water just enoi]^h to
cover them weU, and keep them from burning; boil from twenty minutes to
half an hour, when the liquor should be nearly boiled out; season with pepper
and salt, and a good allowance of butter; serve very hot.

This is a very much better way than cooking in a larger quantity of water,
and draining off the hquor, as that diminishes the sweetness, and much of the
fine flavor of the peas is lost. The salt should never be put in the peas before
they are tender, unless very young, as it tends to harden them

■

STEWED GREEN PEAS.

Into a sauce-pan of boiling water put two or three pints of young green peas,
and when nearly done and tender, drain in a colander dry; then melt two
ounces of butter in two of flour; stir well, and boil five minutes longer; should
the pods be quite dean and fresh, boil them first in the water, remove, and put
in the peas. The Germans prepare a very palatable dish of sweet young pods
alone, by simply stirring in a Uttle butter with some savory herbs.

l88 VEGETABLES.

SQUASHES, OR CYMBLINGS.

The green or summer squash is best when the outside is be ginning to turn
yellow, as it is then less watery and insipid than when younger. Wash them,
cut them into pieces, and take out the seeds. Boil them about three-quarters of
an hour, or till quite tender. When done, drain and squeeze them well till you
have pressed out all the water; mash them with a little butter, pepper and salt.
Then put the squash thus prepared into a stew-i>an, set it on hot coals, and stir
it very frequently till it becomes dry. Take care not to let it bum.

Summer squash is very nice steamed, then prepared the same as boiled.

BOILED WINTER SQUASH.
This is much finer than the summer squash. It is fit to eat in August, and,
in a dry warm place, can be kept well all winter. The color is a yery bright
yellow. Pare it, take out the seeds, cut it in pieces, and stew it slowly till quite
soft, in a very little water. Afterwards drain, squeeze, and press it well; then
mash it with a very little butter, pepper and salt. They will boil in from twenty
to forty minutes.

BAKED WINTER SQUASH.

Cut open the squash, take out the seeds, and without paring cut it up into
large pieces; put the pieces on tins or a dripping-pan, place in a moderately hot
oven, and bake about an hour. When done, peel and mash hke mashed
potatoes, or serre the pieces hot on a dish, to be eaten warm with butter like
sweet potatoes. It retains its sweetness much better baked this way than when
boiled.

VEGETABLE HASH.

Chop rather coarsely the remains of vegetables left from a boiled dinner,
such as cabbage, parsnips, potatoes, etc., sprinkle over them a little pepper;
place in a saucepan or frying-pan over the fire; put in a piece of butter the size
of a hickory nut; when it begins to melt, tip the dish so as to oil the bottom, and
around the sides; then put in the chopped vegetables; pour in a spoonful or two
of hot water from the tea-kettle; cover quickly so as to keep in the steam.
When heated thoroughly take off the cover and stir occasionally until well
cooked. Serve hot. Persons fond of vegetables will relish this dish very much.

SPINACH.
It should be cooked so as to retain its bright-green color, and not sent to
table, as it so often is, of a dull-brown or olive color; to retain its fresh appear-
ance, do not cover the vessel while it is cooking.

VEGETABLES: 1 89

Spinach requires dose examination and pickings as insects are frequently
found among it, and it is often gritty. Wash it through three or four waters.
Then drain it and put it in boiling water. Fifteen to twenty minutes is gener-
ally sufficient time to boil spinach. Be careful to remove the scum. When it
is quite tender, take it up, and drain and squeeze it well. Chop it fine, and put
it into a sauce-pan with a piece of butter and a little pepper and salt. Set it on
the fire and let it stew five minutes, stirring it all the time, until quite dry.
Turn it into a v^etable dish, shape it into a mound, slice some hard-boiled ^gs

and lay around the top.

GREENS.

About a peck of greens are enough for a mess for a family of six, such as
dandelions, cowslips, burdock, chiccory and other greens. All greens should be
carefully examined, the tough ones thrown out, then be thoroughly washed
through several waters until they are entirely free from sand. The addition of a
handful of salt to each pan of water used in washing the greens will free them
from insects and worms, especially, if, after the last watering, they are allowed
to stand in salted water for a half hour or longer. When ready to boil the
greens, put them into a large pot half full of boiling water, with a handful of
salt, and boil them steadily until the stalks are tender; this will be in from five
to twenty minutes, according to the maturity of the greens; but remember that
long-continued boiling wastes the tender substances of the leaves, and so
diminishes both the bulk and the nourishment of the dish; for this reason it is
best to cut away any tough stalks before beginning to cook the greens. As soon
as they are tender, drain them in a colander, chop them a httie and return them
to the fire long enough to season them with salt, pepper and butter; vinegar
may be added if it is liked; the greens should be served as soon as they are hot.

All kinds of greens can b^ cooked in this manner.

STEWED CARROTS.

Wash and scrape the carrots, and divide them into strips; put them into a
stew-pan with water enough to cover them; add a spoonful of salt, and let them
boil slowly xmtil tender; then drain and replace them in the pan, with two table-
spoonfuls of butter roUed in flour, shake over a little pepper and salt, then add
enough cream or milk to moisten the whole; let it come to a boil and serve hot.

CARROTS MASHED.

Scrape and wash them; cook them tender in boiling water salted slightly.
Drain weU and mash them. Work in a good piece of butter and season with
pepper and salt. Heap up on a vegetable dish and serve hot.

190 VEGETABLES.

Carrots are also good simply boiled in salted water and dished up hot with
melted butter over them.

TURNIPS.

Turnips are boiled plain with or without meat, also mashed like potatoes, and
stewed like parsnips. They should always be served hot. They require from
forty minutes to an hour to cook.

STEWED PUMPKIN.
See '^ Stewed Pumpkin for Pie." Cook the same, then after stewing, season
the same as mashed potatoes. Pumpkin is good baked in the same manner as
baked winter squash.

STEWED ENDIVE.

Ingredients. — Six heads of endive, salt and water, one pint of broth, thicken-
ing of butter and floin:, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, a small lump of sugar.

Mode. — ^Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the green
part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly salted. Let it remain
for ten minutes; then take it out, drain it till there is no water remaining, and
chop it very fine. Put it into a stew-pan with the broth; add a little salt and a
lump of sugar, and boil until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which
may be ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thinnb and finger, add a
thickening of butter and fiour and the lemon juice; let the sauce boil up, and
serve.

Time. — Ten minutes to boil, five minutes to simmer in the broth.

BAKED MUSHROOMS.

Prepare them the same as for stewing. Place them in a baking-pan, in a
moderate oven. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped parsley.
Cook in the oven fifteen minutes, baste with butter. Arrange on a dish and
pour the gravy over them. Serve with sauce made by beating a cup of cream,
two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little cayenne pepper,
salt, a tablespoonful of white sauce, and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Put
in a sauce-pan and set on the fire. Stir until thick, but do not let bo£L Mush«
rooms are very nice placed on shoes of weU-buttered toast when set into the
oven to bake. They cook in about fifteen minutes.

STEWED MUSHROOMS.
Time, twenty-one minutes. Button mushrooms; salt to taste; a little butter
rolled in flour; two tablespoonfuls of cream or the yolk of one egg. Choose

VEGETABLES.

191

buttons of uniform size. Wipe them dean and white with a wet flannel; put
them in a stew-pan with a Uttle water, and let them stew very gently for a quar-
ter of an hour. Add salt to taste, work in a Uttle flour and butter, to make the
liquor about as thick as cream, and let it boil for five minutes. When you are
ready to dish it up, stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream or the yolk of an egg;
stir it over the flre for a minute, but do not let it boil, and serve. Stewed but-
ton mushrooms are very nice, either in fish stews or ragouts, or served apart to
eat with fish. Another way of doing them is to stew them in milk and water
(after they are rubbed white), add to them a little veal gravy, mace and salt, and
thicken the gravy with cream or the yolks of eggs.

Mushrooms can be cooked in the same manner as the recipes for oysters,
either stewed, fried, broiled, or as a soup. They are also used to flavor sauces,
catsups, meat gravies, game and soups.

CANNED MUSHROOMS.

Canned mushrooms may be served with good effect with game and even
with beefsteak if prepared in this way: Open the can and poiu* off every drop of
the hquid found there; let the mushrooms drain, then put them in a sauce-pan
with a Uttle cream, and butter, pepper, and salt; let them simmer gently for
from five to ten minutes, and when the meat is on the platter pour the mush-
rooms over it. If served with steak, that should be very tender, and be broiled,
never in any case fried.

MUSHROOMS FOR WINTER USE.

Wash and wipe free from grit the small fresh button mushrooms. Put inta
a frying-pan a quarter of a pound of the very best butter. Add to it two whole
cloves, a saltspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. When hot,
add a quart of the small mushrooms, toss them about in the butter for a moment
only, then put them in jars; fill the top of each jar with an inch or two of the
butter and let it cooL Keep the jars in a cool place, and when the butter is
quite firm, add a top layer of salt. Cover to keep out dust.

The best mushrooms grow on uplands, or in high, open fields, where the air
ispinre.

TRUFFLES.

The trufiSe belongs to the family of the mushrooms; they are used principally
in this country as a condiment for boned turkey and chicken, scrambled eggs,
fillets of beef, game and fish. When mixed in due proportion, they add a pecu-
liar zest and fiavor to sauces, that cannot be found in any other plant in the
vegetable kingdom.

192 VEGETABLES.

ITALIAN STYLE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES.

Ten tnifflee, a quarter of a pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt to taste, one
tablespoonf ul of minced parsley, a very little finely minoed garlic, two blades of
pounded mace, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thin slices, and put
them in a baMng-dish, on a seasoning of oil or butter, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic
and mace, in the above proportion. Bake them for nearly an hour, and just
before serving, add the lemon juice and send them to table very hot.

TRUFFLES AU NATUREL.

Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them in several waters
with a brush, until not a particle of sand or grit remains on them; wrap each
truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot oven for quite an hour; take off the
paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them in a hot napkin.

rthaccaronl

MACCARONI X LA ITALIENNE.

Divide a quarter of a pound of maccaroni into four-inch pieces. Simmer
fifteen minutes in plenty of boiling water, salted. Drain. Put the maccaroni
into a sauce-pan and turn over it a strong soup stock, enough to prevent burn-
ing. Strew over it an ounce of grated cheese; when the cheese is melted, dish.
Put alternate layers of maccaroni and cheese; then turn over the soup stock and
bake half an hour.

MACCARONI AND CHEESE.

Break half a pound of maccaroni into pieces an inch or two long; cook it in
boiling water enough to cover it weU; put in a good teaspoonful of salt; let it
boil about twenty minutes. Drain it well, and then put a layer in the bottom of
a well-buttered pudding-dish, upon this some grated cheese, and small pieces of
butter, a bit of salt, then more maccaroni, and so on, filling the dish; sprinkle
the top layer with a thick layer of cracker-crumbs. Pour over the whole a tea-
cupful of cream or milk. Set it in the oven and bake half an hour. It should
be nicely browned on top. Serve in the same dish in which it was baked, with
a dean napkin pinned around it.

VEGETABLES. 1 93

TIMBALE OF MACCARONL

Break in very short lengths small maccaroni (vermicelli, spaghetti, tagliarini).
Let it be rather overdone; dress it with butter and grated cheese; then work
into it one or two eggs, according to quantity. Butter and bread-crumb a plain
mold, and when the maccaroni is nearly cold fill the mold with it, pressing it
well down and leaving a hollow in the centre, into which place a well-flavored
mince of meat, poultry or game; then fill up the mold with more maccaroni,
pressed well down. Bake in a moderately heated oven, turn out and serve.

MACCARONI A LA CR£ME.

Boil one-quarter of a pound of maccaroni in plenty of hot water, salted, until
tender; put half a pint of milk in a double boiler, and when it boils stir into it a
mixture of two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour. Add two tablespoon-
fuls of cream, a little white and cayenne pepper; salt to taste, and from one-
quarter to one-half a poimd of grated cheese according to taste. Drain and dish
the maccaroni; pour the boiling sauce over it, and serve immediately.

MACCARONI AND TOMATO SAUCE.

Divide half a pound of maccaroni into f our-iuch pieces, put it into boiling
salted water enough to cover it; boil from fifteen to twenty minutes; then drain;
arrange it neatly on a hot dish, and pour tomato sauce over it, and serve imme-
diately while hot. See ^' SauceB'* for tomato sauce.

TO MAKE BUTTER,

Thoroughly scald the chum, then cool well with ice or spring water. Now
pour in the thick cream; chum fast at first, then, as the butter forms, moro
slowly; always with perfect regularity; in warm weather, pour a little cold
water into the chum, should the butter form slowly; in winter, if the cream is
too cold, add a httle warm water to bring it to the proper temperature. When
the butter has '^ come," rinse the sides of the chinn down with cold water, and
take the butter up with the perforated dasher or a wooden ladle, turning it
dexterously just below the surface of the buttermilk to catch every stray bit;
have ready some very cold water, in a deep wooden tray; and into this plunge
the dasher when you draw it from the chum; the butter will float off, leaving
the dasher free. When you have collected all the butter, gather behind a
wooden butter ladle, and drain off the water, squeezing and pressing the butter
with the ladle; then pour on more cold water, and work the butter with the
ladle to get the milk out, drain off the water, sprinkle salt over the butter, — a
tablespoonful to a pound; work it in a little, and set in a cool place for an hour
to harden, then work and knead it until not another drop of water exudes, and
the butter is perfectly smooth and close in texture and polish; then with the
ladle make up into rolls, little balls, stamped pats, etc.

The chum, dasher, tray and ladle, should be well scalded before using, so that
the butter will not stick to them, and then cooled with very cold water.

When you skim cream into your cream jar, stir it weU into what is already
there, so that it may all sour alike; and no fresh cream should be put with it
within twelve hours before churning, or the butter will not come quickly; and
perhaps, not at alL

Butter is indispensable in almost all culinary preparations. Good, fresh
butter, used in moderation, is easily digested; it is softening, nutritiouff, and

BUTTER AND CHEESE. 195

fattening, and is far more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous sub-
stances sometimes used in its place.

TO MAKE BUTTER QUICKLY.

Immediately after the cow is milked, strain into clean pans, and set it over a
moderate fire until it is scalding hot; do not let it boil; then set it aside; when
it is cold, skim off the cream; the milk will still be fit for any ordinary use;
when you have enough cream, put it into a dean earthen basin; beat it with a
wooden spoon until the butter is made, which will not be long; then take it from
the milk and work it with a Uttle cold water, untfl it is free from milk; then
drain off the water, put a small tablespoonful of fine salt to each pound of
butter, and work it in. A small teaspoonful of fine white sugar, worked in with
the salt, will be found an improvement— sugar is a great preservative. Make
the butter in a roll; cover it with a bit of muslin, and keep it in a cool place.
A reliable recipe.

A BRINE TO PRESERVE BUTTER.

First work your butter into small roUs, wrapping each one carefully in a
dean muslin doth, tying them up with a string. Make a brine, say three
gallons, having it strong enough of salt to bear up an egg; add half a teacupful
of pure, white sugar, and one tablespoonful of saltpetre; boil the brine, and when
cold strain it carefully. Pour it over the rolls so as to more than cover them,
as this excludes the air. Place a weight over all to keep the rolls under the
surface.

PUTTING UP BUTTER TO KEEP.

Take of the best pure, common salt two quarts, one ounce of white sugar

and one of saltpetre; pulverize them together completely. Work the butter

well, then thoroughly work in an ounce of this mixture to every pound of

butter. The butter to be made into half-pound rolls, and put into the following

brine— to three gallons of brine strong enough to bear an egg, add a quarter of

a pound of white sugar.

— Orafige Co., N. Y., style.

CURDS AND CREAM.

One gallon of milk will make a moderate dish. Put one spoonful of prepared
rennet to each quart of milk, and when you find that it has become curd, tie it
loosely in a thin cloth and hang it to drain; do not wring or press the cloth;
when drained, put the curd into a mug and set in cool water, which must be
frequently dianged (a refrigerator saves this trouble.) When you dish it, if

196 BUTTER AND CHEESE.

theJt^ is whey in the mug, ladle it gently out without pressing the cuid; lay it
on a deep dish, .and pour fresh cream over it; have powdered loaf-sugar to eat
with it; jgJso hand the nutmeg grater.

Prepoxed rennet can be had at almost any druggist's, and at a reasonable

price.* Oall. for Crosse & Blackwell's Prepared Bennet.

. , • •• • # • ■

• J^^.. •«'''*; . - - KEW. JERSEY CREAM CHEESE.

• ^^J^Mi^^^^^l^fl^'^^^. qimntity of milk desired; let it cool a little, then add the
rennet;'*. tfie* curoctions for quantity are given on the packages of ^^ Prepared
Bennet." When the curd is fonned, take it out on a ladle without breaking
it; lay it on a thin doth held by two persons; dash a ladleful of water over each

; ladleful of curd, to separate the curd; hang it up to drain the water off, and then
-put it' uuder a light press for one hour; cut the curd with a thread into small
pieces; lay a doth between each two, and press for an hour; take them out, rub
them with fine salt, let them lie on a board for an hour, and wash them in cold

. water; let them lie to drain, and in a day or two the skin will look dry; put
some s^eet grass under and over them, and they will soon ripen.

'* COTTAGE CHEESE.

' l^t.a.panof sour or loppered nulk on the stove or range, where it is not too
/hot; letit scald until the whey rises to the top (be careful that it does not boil,
or the. cuTjd; will become hard ahd tough). Place a clem dotti or towel over a
A^e^ an^^pour this whey and curd into it, leaving it covered to drain two to
•three hotirs;; then put it into a dish and chop it fine with a spoon, adding a tea-
spoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of butter and enough sweet cream to make the
dieeM the consistency of putty. With your hands make it into httle balls flat-
tehed. Keep it in a cool place. Many like it made rather thin with cream,
serving it in a deep dish. You may make this cheese of sweet milk, by forming
the curd with prepared rennet.

SLIP.

SUp is bonny-dabber without its addity, and so delicate is its flavor that
many persons like it just as well as ice-cream. It is prepared thus: Make a
quart of milk moderatdy warm; then stir into it one large spoonful of the
preparation called rennet; set it by, and when cool again it will be as stiff as
jeDy. It should be made only a few hours before it is to be used, or it will be
tough and watery; in summer set the dish on ice after it has jellied. It must be
served with powdered sugar, nutmeg and cream.

BUTTER AND CHEESE. 197

CHEESE FONDU.

Melt an ounce of butter, and whisk into it a pint of boiled milk. .• Dissolve
two tablespoonfuls of flour in a gill of cold milk, add it tb the-boil^' milk and
let it cool. Beat the yolks of four eggs with a heaping teaspoonf ui of saftti half
a teaspoonf ul of pepper, and five ounces of grated cheese. . Whip thQ wfe|tesiof
the ^gs and add them, pour the mixture into $t 'deep tin -lined with^J^u^red
paper, and allow for the rising, say four inch^a Bake twenty ' midutes and
serve the moment it leaves the oven.

• * •

CHEESE SOUFFL6. ••;."*

Melt an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan; mix smoothly with it one ounce of
flour, a pinch of salt and cayenne and a quarter of a pint of milk; simmer the '
mixture gently over the fire, stirring it all the time, tiU it is as thick as melte^ '
butter; stir into it about three ounces of finely-grated parmesan, or any good
cheese. Turn it into a basin, and mix with it the yolks of two well-beaten *eg^. '
Whisk three whites to a sohd froth, and just before the soufil6 is baked put
them into it, and pour the mixture into a small round tin. It should be only
half filled, as the fondu will rise very high. Pin a napkin around the dish in '
which it is baked, and serve the moment it is baked. It would be well to have a
metal cover strongly heated. Time twenty minutes. Sufficient for six persons.

SCALLOPED CHEESE.

•

Any person who is fond of cheese could not fail to favor this recipe. -
Take three slices of bread, well-buttered, first cutting off the brown outside
crost. Grate fine a quarter of a pound of any kind of good cheese; lay th^
bread in layers in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle over it the grated cheese,
some salt and pepper to taste. Mix four weU-beaten eggs with three ,cups of
milk; pour it over the bread and cheese. Bake it in a hot oven as you would
cook a bread pudding. This makes an ample dish for four people.

PASTRY RAMAKINS.

Take the remains or odd pieces of any light puff-paste left from pies or tarts;
gather up the pieces of paste, roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with'' grated
cheese of a nice flavor. Fold the paste in three, roll it out again, and sprinkle
more cheese over; fold the paste, roll it out, and with a paste-cutter shape it in
any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from ten to .
fifteen minutes, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly. The appearance

198 BUTTER AND CHEESE.

of this dish may be very much improved, by brushing the ramakiiis over with
yolk of ^;g before they are placed in the oven. Where expense is not objected
to^ parmesan is the best kind of cheese to use for malring this. dish.
Very nice with a cup of coffee for a lunch.

CAYENNE CHEESE STRAWS

A quarter of a pound of fknur, 2 oz. butter, 2 oz. grated parmesan cheeee, a
pinch of salt, and a few grains of cayeime pepper. Mix into a paste with the
yolk of an egg. Boll out to the thickness of a silver quarter, about four or five
inches long; cut into strips about a third of an inch wide, twist them as you
would a paper spill, and lay them on a baking-sheet slightly floured. Bake in a
moderate oven untQ crisp, but they must not be the least brown. If put away
in a tin, these cheese straws will keep a long time. Sorve cold, piled tastefully
on a ^Uiss dish. You can make the straws of renmants of puff-pastry^ rolling
in the grated cheese.

CHEESE CREAM TOAST.

Stale bread may be served as follows: Toast the slices and cover them slightly
with grated cheese; make a cream for ten sUces out of a pint of milk and two
tablespoonfuls of plain flour. The milk should be boiling, and the flour mixed
inalittle cold water before stining in. When the cream is nicely cooked, season
with salt and butter; set the toast and cheese in the oven for three or four
minutes, and then pour the cream over them.

WELSH RAREBIT.

Grate three ounces of dry cheese, and mix it with the yolks of two eggs, put
four ounces of grated bread, and three of butter; beat the whole together in a
mortar with a dessertspoonful of made mustard, a little salt and some pepper;
toast some slices of bread, cut off the outside crust, cut it in shapes and spread
the paste thick upon them, and put them in the oven^ let them become hot and
slightly browned, serve hot as possible.

There are so toany ways of cooking and dressing eggs, that it seems un-
necessary for the ordinary family to use only those that are the most practical.

To ascertain the freshness of an egg, hold it between your thumb and fore-
finger in a horizontal position, with a strong light in front of you. The fresh
e^ will have a dear appearance, both upper and lower sides being the same.
The stale egg will have a clear appearance at the lower side, while the upper side
will exhibit a dark or cloudy appearance.

Another test is to put them in a pan of cold water; those that are the first to
sink are the freshest; the stale will rise and float on top; or, if the large end
turns up in the water, they are not fresh. The best time for preserving eggs is
from July to September.

TO PRESERVE EGGS.

There are several recipes for preserving eggs, and we give first one which we
know to be effectual, keeping them fresh from August until Spring. Take a piece
of quick-lime as large as a good-sized lemon, and two teacupfuls of salt; put it into
a lai^ge vessel and slack it with a gallon of boiling water. It will boil and bubble
until thick as cream; when it is cold, pour off the top, which will be perfectly
clear. Drain off this Uquor, and pour it over your eggs; see that the liquor
more than covers them. A stone jar is the most convenient; — one that holds
about six quarts.

Another manner of preserving eggs is to pack them in a jar with layers of
salt between, the large end of the egg downward, with a thick layer of salt at
the top; cover tightly, and set in a cool place.

Some put them in a wire basket or a piece of mosquito net, and dip them in
boiling water half a minute; then pack in saw-dust. Still another manner is to
dissolve a cheap article of gum arabic, about as thin as mucilage, and brush
over each egg with it; then pack in powdered charcoal; set in a cool, dark place.

200 EGGS.

Eggs can be kept for some time by smearing the shells with butter or laid;
then packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, the egs^ not allowed to toodi one
another; or coat the ^gs with melted paraflGme.

BOILED EGGS.

Eggs for boihng cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after they are laid;
but rather a longer time should be allowed for bcHling a new-laid egg than for
one that is three or four days old. Ha-^^ ready a saucepan of boiling water;
put the .^gs into it gently with a sp^^on, letting the spoon touch the bottom of
the sauce-pan before it is withdrawn, that the ^gg may not faD, and conse-
quently crack. For those who like eggs lightly boiled^ three minutes wfll be
found sufficient; three and thiee-quarterB to four minutes will be amiple time to
set the white nicely; and if liked hard, six or seven minutes will not be found
too long. Should the eg^ be unusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls
sometimes are> allow an extra half minute for them. Eggs for salad should be
boiled for ten or fifteen minutes, and should be placed in a basin of cold water
for a few minutes, to shrink the meat from the shell; they should then be loDed
on the table with the hand, and the shell wiU peel off easily.

SOFT BOILED EGG&

When properly cooked, eggs are doni» evenly through, like any other food.
This result may be obtained by putting the ^gg into a dish with a cover, or a tin
pail, and then pouring upon them boiling water — two quarts or more to a dosen
of eggs — and cover and set them away where they will keep hot and not boil, for
tffli to twelve minutes. The heat of the water cooks the eggs stowly, evenly and
sufliraently, leaving the centre, or yolk, harder than the white, and the egg tastes
as mudi licfaer and nicer as a fresh egg is nicer than a stale egg.

SCALLOPED EGGS.

Hard-boil twelve ^gs; slice them thin in rings; in the bottcnn of a large
well-buttered baking-dish place a layer of grated bread-crumbs^ then one of
eggs; cover with bits of butter, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Oontinoe
thus to blend these ingredients until the dish is full; be sure, thou^ that the
crumbs cover the ^gs upon top. Over the whole pour a laige teacupful of
sweet cream or miU^ and brown nicely in a moderately heated oven.

SHIRRED EGGS.

Set into the oven until quite hot a conunon white dish, large enough to hcdd
the number of eggs to be cooked, allowing {deniy of room for each. ICelt in it a

EGGS. 20 1

small piece of butter, and breaking the eggs carefully in a saucer, one at a time,
slip them into the hot dish; sprinkle over them a small quantity of pepper and
salt, and allow them to cook four or five minutes. Adding a tablespoonful of
cream for eveiy two e^s, when the Qggs are first slipped in, is a great improve-
ment.

This is far more delicate than fried eggs.

Or prepare the eggs the same, and set them in a steamer, over boiling water.

They are usually served in hotels baked in individual dishes, about two in a
dish, and in the same dish they were baked in.

SCRAMBLED EGGS.

Put a tablespoonful of butter into a hot frying-pan; tip around so that it will
touch all sides of the pan. Having ready half a dozen eggs broken in a dish,
salted and peppered, turn them (without beating) into the hot butter; stir them
one way briskly for five or six minutes or imtil they are mixed. Be careful that
they do not get too hard. Turn over toast or dish up without.

POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS.

Have one quart of boiling water, and one tablespoonful of salt, in a frying-
pan. Break the eggs, one by one, into a saucer, and slide carefully into the
salted water. Dash with a spoon a little water over the egg, to keep the top
white.

The beauty of a poached egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the
white, which should only be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil
for the egg.

Cook until the white is firm, and lift out with a griddle-cake turner, and place
on toasted bread. Serve immediately.

A tablespoonful of vinegar put into the water, keeps the eggs from spreading.

Open gem rings are nice placed in the water and an egg dropped into each

ring.

FRIED EGGS.

Break the eggs, one at a time, into a saucer, and then slide them carefully
off into a frying-pan of lard and butter mixed, dipping over the eggs the hot
grease in spoonfuls, or turn them over-frjdng both sides without breaking them.
They require about three minutes' cooking.

Eggs can be fried round like balls, by dropping one at a time into a quantity
of hot lard, the same as for fried cakes, first stirring the hot lard with a stick
until it runs round like a whirlpool; this will make the eggs look like balls.
Take out with a skimmer. Egg^ can be poached the same in boiling water.

202 EGGS.

EGGS AUX FINES HERBES.

Boll an ounce of butter in a good teaspoonf ul of flour; season with pepper,
salt and nutmeg; put it into a coffeecupful of fresh mQk, together with two tea-
spoonfuls of chopped parsley; stir and sinuner it for fifteen minutes, add a
teacupful of thick cream. Hard-boil five eggs, and halve them; arrange them
in a dish with the ends upwards, pour the sauce over them, and decorate with
little heaps of fried bread-crumbs round the margin of the dish.

POACHED EGGS A LA CRfeME-

Put a quart of hot water, a tablespoonful of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt
into a frying-pan, and break each egg separately into a saucer; slip the egg care-
fully into the hot water, simmer three or four minutes until the white is set,
then with a skimmer lift them out into a hot dish. Elmpty the pan of its
contents, put in half a cup of cream, or rich milk; if milk, a laige spoonful of
butter; pepper and salt to taste, thicken with a very httle cornstarch; let it boil
up once, and turn it over the dish of poached eggs. It can be served on toast or
without.

It is a better plan to warm the cream and butter in a separate dish, that the
eggs may not have to stand.

EGGS IN CASES.

Make little paper cases of buttered writing paper; put a small piece of butter
in each, and a Uttle chopped parsley or onion; pepper and salt. Place the cases
upon a gridiron over a moderate fire of bright coals, and when the butter melts,
break a fresh egg into each case. Strew in upon them a few seasoned bread-
crumbs, and when nearly done, glaze the tops with a hot shovel. Serve in the
paper cases.

MINCED EGGS.

Chop up four or five hard-boiled oggs; do not mince them too fine. Put over
the fire in a suitable dish a cupful of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, salt and
pepper, and some savory chopped small. When this comes to a boil, stir into it
a tablespoonful of flour, dissolved in a little cold milk. When it cooks thick like
cream, put in the minced ^gs. Stir it gently around and around for a few
moments^ and serve, garnished with sippets of toast. Any particular flavor may
be given to this dish, such as that of mushrooms, truflles, catsup, essence of
shrimps, etc., or some shred anchovy may be added to the mince.

EGGS. 203

MIXED EGGS AND BACON.
Take a nice rasher of mild bacon; cut it into squares no larger than dice; fiy
it quickly until nicely browned, but on no account bum it. Break half a dozen
•^ggs into a basin, strain and season them with pepper, add them to the bacon^
«tir the whole about, and, when sufficiently firm, turn it out into a dish. Decorate
with hot pickles.

MIXED EGGS GENERALLY.— SAVORY OR SWEET.

Much the same method is followed in mixed eggs generally, whatever may
he added to them; really it is nothing more than an omelet which is sxiirred about
in the pan while it is being di'essed, instead of being allowed to set as a pancake.
Chopped tongue, oysters, shrimps, sardines, dried salmon, anchovies, herbs, may
be used.

COLD EGGS FOR A PICNIC.

This novel way of preparing cold egg for the lunch-basket fully repays one
for the extra time required. Boil hard several eggs, halve them lengthwise;
remove the yolks and chop them fine with cold chicken, lamb, veal or any
tender^ roasted meat; or with bread soaked in milk, and any salad, as parsley,
onion, celery, the bread being half of the whole; or with grated cheese, a httle
olive oil, drawn butter, flavored. Fill the cavity in the egg with either of these
mixtures, or any similar preparation. Press the halves together, roll twice in
heaten egg and bread-crumbs, and dip into boiling lard. When the color rises
delicately, drain them and they are ready for use.

OMELETS.

In making an omelet, care should be taken that the omelet pan is hot and
'dry. To ensure this, put a small quantity of lard or suet into a dean frying-
pan, let it simmer a few minutes, then remove it; wipe the pan dry with a
iowel, and then put in a tablespoonf iil of butter. The smoothness of the pan is
most essential, as the least particle of roughness will cause the omelet to stick.
Aa a general rule, a small omelet can be made more ffliccessfully than a lai'ge
one, it being much better to make two small ones of four eggs each, than to try
double the number of eggs in one omelet and faiL Allow one egg to a person in
making an omelet and one tablespoonful of milk; this makes an omelet more
puflfy and tender than one made without milk. Many prefer them without
milk.

Omelets are called by the name of what is added to give them flavor, as

204 EGGS.

minced ham^ salmon^ onions, oysters, etc., beaten up in the eggs in due quan-
tity, ^hich giTes as many different kinds of omelets.

They are also served over many kinds of thick sauces or purees, such as
tomatoes, spinach, endive, lettuce, celery, etc.

K vegetables are to be added, they should be already cooked, seasoned and
hot; place in the centre of the omelet, just before turning; so with mushroom,
shrimps, or any cooked ingredients. All omelets should be served the moment
they are done, as they harden by standing, and care taken that they do not cook
too much.

Sweet omelets are generally used for breakfast or plain desserts.

PLAIN OMELET.

Put a smooth, dean, iron frying-pan on the fire to heat; meanwhile, beat
four eggs, very light, the whites to a stiff froth, and the yolks to a thick batter.
Add to the yolks four tablespoonfuls of milk, pepper and salt; and lastly sfeLr in
the whites lightly. Put a piece of butter nearly half the size of an ^g into the
heated pan; turn it so that it will moisten the entire bottom, taking care that it
does not scorch. Just as it begins to boil, pour in the eggs. Hold the fryixig-
pan handle in your left hand, and, as the eggs whiten, carefully, with a spoon,
draw up lightly from the bottom, letting the raw part run out oh the pan,
tin all be equally cooked; shake with yoiu: left hand, till the omelet be free from
the pan, then turn with a spoon one half of the omelet over the other; let it
remain a moment, but continue shaking, lest it adhere; toss to a warm platter
held in the right hand, or lift with a flat, broad shovel; the omelet will be firm,
around the edge, but creamy and light inside.

MEAT OR FISH OMELETS.

Take cold meat, fish, game or poultry of any kind; remove all skin, sinew^
etc., and either cut it small or pound it to a paste in a mortar, together with a
proper proportion of spices and salt; then either toss it in a buttered frying-pan
over a dear fire tiU it begins to brown, and pour beaten eggs upon it, or beat it
up with the eggs, or spread it upon them after they have begun to set in the
pan. In any case serve hot, with or without a sauce; but garnished with crisp
herbs in branches, pickles, or sliced lemon. The right proportion is one table-
spoonful of meat to four eggs. A little milk, gravy, water, or white wine, may
be advantageously added to the eggs while they are being beaten.

Potted meats make admirable omelets in the above manner.

EGGS. 205

VEGETABLE OMELET.

Make a pur6e by mashing up ready-dressed vegetables, together with a little
milk, cream or gravy, and some seasoning. The most suitable vegetables are
cucumbers, artichokes, onions, sorrel, green peas, tomatoes, lentils, mushrooms,
asparagus tops, potatoes, truflfles or turnips. Prepare some eggs by beating
them very light. Pour them into a nice hot frying-pan, containing a spoonful
of butter; spread the pur6e upon the upper side; and when perfectly hot, turn
or fold the omelet together and serve. Or cold vegetables may be merely chopped
small, then tossed in a little butter, and some beaten and seasoned eggs poured
over.

OMELET OF HERBS.

Parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram mixed gives the famous omelette aux
fines herbes so popular at every wayside inn in the most remote comer of sunny
France. An omelet " jardiniere " is two tablespoonfuls of mixed parsley, onion»
chives, shalots and a few leaves each of sorrel and chevril, minced fine and
stirred into the beaten eggs before cooking. It will take a little more butter to
fry it than a plain one.

CHEESE OMELET.

Beat up three eggs, and add to them a tablespoonf ul of milk and a table-
spoonful of grated cheese; add a little more cheese before folding; turn it out
on a hot dish; grate a little cheese over it before serving.

ASPARAGUS OMELET.

Boil with a httle salt, and until about half cooked, eight or ten stalks of
asparagus, and cut the eatable i>art into rather small pieces; beat the Qggs, and
mix the asparagus with them. Make the omelet as above directed.

Omelet with parsley is made by adding a little chopped parsley.

TOMATO OMELET. No. 1.
Peel a couple of tomatoes, which split into four pieces; remove the seeds, and
cut them into small dice; then fry them with a little butter until nearly done,
adding salt and pepper. Beat the eggs and Tm'ir the tomatoes with them, and
make the omelet as usual Or, stewafew tomatoes in the usual way and spread
over before folding.

TOMATO OMELET. No. 2.
Cut in slices and place in a stew-pan six peeled tomatoes; add a tablespoonf ul
of cold water, a little pepper, and salt. When they begin to simmer, break in

206 EGGS.

six eggs, stir well, stirring one way, until the ^gs are cooked, but not too hard.
Serve warm.

RICE OMELET.

Take a cupful of cold boiled rice, turn over it a cupful of warm milk, add a
tablespoonful of butter melted, a level teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper;
mix well, then add three well-beaten eggs. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a
hot frying-pan, and when it begins to boil pour in the omelet and set the pan
in a hot oven. As soon as it is cooked through, fold it double, turn it out on a
hot dish, and serve at once. Very good.

HAM OMELET.

Cut raw ham into dice, fry with butter, and when cooked enough, turn the
beaten egg over it, and cook as a plain omelet.

If boiled ham is used, mince it, and mix with the eggs after they are beaten.
Bacon may be used instead of raw ham.

CHICKEN OMELET.

Mince rather fine one cupful of cooked chicken, warm in a teacupful of
cream or rich milk, a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper; thicken with a
large tablespoonful of flour. Make a plain omelet, then add this mixture, just
before turning it over. This is much better than the dry minced chicken.
Tongue is equally good.

MUSHROOM OMELET.

Clean a cupful of large button mushrooms, canned ones may be used; cut
them into bits. Put into a stew-pan an ounce of butter and let it mdt; add the
mushrooms, ateaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cupful
of cream or milk. Stir in a teaspoonful of flour, dissolved in a Uttle milk or
water to thicken, if needed. Boil ten minutes, and set aside until the omelet is
ready.

Make a plain omelet the usual way, and just before doubling it, turn the
mushrooms over the centre and serve hot.

OYSTER OMELET.

Parboil a dozen oysters in their own Uquor, skim them out, and let them
cool; add them to the beaten eggs, either whole or minced. Cook the same as
a plain omelet.

Thicken the liquid with butter rolled in flour; season with salt, cayenne
pepper and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Chop up the oysters and add to .

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207

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208 EGGS.

BAKED OMELET.

Beat the whites and yolks of four or six ^gs separately; add to the yoOs a
small cap of milk, a tablespoonfol of flour or cornstarch, a teaspoonfol of bakmg
powder, one-half teaspoonfnl of salt, and lastly, the stiff-beaten whites. Bake
in a wen battered pie-tin or plate, aboat half an hoar in a steady oven.

It shoold be served the moment it is taken from theoTen, as it is liable to fan .

OMELET SOUFFL^.

Break six ^ggps into sqiaiate caps; beat foar of the yolks, mix with them (me
teaspoonfol of floor, three tablespoonfols of powdered sugar, very litQe salL
Flavor with extract lemon or any other of the flavors that may be preferred.
Whisk the whites of six eggs to a firm froth; mix them li^tly with the yolks;
poor the mixtore into a greased pan or dish; bake in a qoick ovea. When weD-
ijsen and lightly browned on the top, it is done; roll oat in warm dish, sift pal-
Terized sogar over, and send to table.

RUM OMELET.

Pot a small qoantity of lard into the pan; let it simmer a few minotes, and
remove it; wipe the pan dry with a towel, and pat in a little fresh lard in which
the omelet may be fried. Care shoald be taken that the lard does not bom,
which woold spoil the color of the omelet. Break three ^gs separately; pat
them into a bowl and whisk them thoroughly with a fork. The longer they
are beaten, the lifter will the omelet be. Beat up a teaspoonfol of milk with
the ^ggps and continue to beat ontil the last moment before pouring into the pan,
which shoold be over a hot fire. As soon as the omelet sets, remove the pan
from the hottest part of the fire. Slip a kmf e under it to prevent sticking to the
pan. When the centre is almost firm, slant the pan, work the omelet in shape
to fold easQy and neatly, and when slightly browned, hold a platter against the
edge of the pan and deftly turn it out on to the hot dish. Dust a liberal quan-
tity of powdered sugar over it, and singe the sugar into neat stripes with a hot
iron rod, heated in the coals; pour a glass of warm Jamaica rum around it, and
when it is placed on the table set fire to the rum. With a tablespoon dash the
burning rum over the omelet, put out the fire and serve. Salt mixed with the
e^s prevents them from rising, and when it is so used the omelet will look
flabby, yet without salt it will taste insipid. Add a little salt to it just before
folding it and turning out on the dish.

HAM SANDWICHES.

Make a dressing of half a cup of butter, one tablespoonful of mixed mustard,
one of salad oil, a little red or white pepper, a pinch of salt and the yolk of an
egg; rub the butter to a cream, add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly;
then stir in as much chopped ham as will make it consistent, and spread between
thin shoes of bread. Omit salad oil and substitute melted butter, if preferred.

HAM SANDWICHES, PLAIN.

Trim the crusts from thin shces of bread; butter them, and lay between every
two some thin slices of cold, boiled ham. Spread the meat with a little mustard,
if liked.

CHICKEN SANDWICHES.

Mince up fine any cold boiled or roasted chicken; put it into a sauce-pan with
gravy, water or cream enough to soften it; add a good piece of butter, a pinch
of pepper; work it very smooth while it is heating until it looks almost like a
paste. Then spread it on a plate to cool. Spread it between slices of buttered
bread.

SARDINE SANDWICHES.

Take two boxes of sardines, and throw the contents into hot water, having
first drained away all the oil. A few minutes will free the sardines from grease.
Pour away the water and dry the fish in a doth; then scrape away the skins,
and poimd the sardines in a mortar till reduced to paste; add pepper, salt, and
some tiny pieces of lettuce, and spread on the sandwiches, which have been pre-
viously cut as above. The lettuce adds very much to the flavor of the sardines.

Or chop the sardines up fine and squeeze a few drops of lemon- juice into them
and spread between buttered bread or cold biscuits.

200 EGGS.

Eggs can be kept for some time by smearing the shells with butter or lard;
then packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, the ^gs not allowed to touch one
another; or coat the eggs with melted i>arafSne.

BOILED EGGS.

Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after they are laid;
but rather a longer time shoiild be allowed for boiling a new-laid egg than for
one that is three or four days old. Ha-^e ready a sauce -pan of boiling water;
put the e^s into it gently with a sp^n, letting the spoon touch the bottom of
the sauce-pan before it is withdrawn, that the egg may not fall, and conse-
quently crack. For those who like eggs Ughtly boiled, three minutes will be
found suffident; three and three-quarters to four minutes will be ample time to
set the white nicely; and if liked hard, six or seven minutes will not be found
too long. Should the eggs be unusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls
sometimes are, allow an extra half minute for them. Eggs for salad should be
boiled for ten or fifteen minutes, and should be placed in a baain of cold water
for a few minutes, to shrink the meat from the shell; they should then be rolled
on the table with the hand, and the shell will peel off easily.

SOFT BOILED EGGS.

When properly cooked, eggs are done evenly through, like any other food.
This result may be obtained by putting the egg into a dish with a cover, or a tin
pail, and then pouring upon them boiling water — ^two quarts or more to a dozen
of eggs — and cover and set them away where they will keep hot and not boil, for
ten to twelve minutes. The heat of the water cooks the eggs slowly, evenly and
sufficiently, leaving the centre, or yolk, harder than the white, and the e^. tastes
as much richer and nicer as a fresh egg is nicer than a stale ^g.

SCALLOPED EGGS.

Hard-boil twelve eggs; sUce them thin in rings; in the bottom of a large
well-buttered baking-dish place a layer of grated bread-crumbs, then one of
eggs; cover with bits of butter, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Continue
thus to blend these ingredients until the dish is full; be sure, though, that the
crumbs cover the eggs upon top. Over the whole pour a large teacupful of
sweet cream or jxnSk^ and brown nicely in a moderately heated oven.

SHIRRED EGGS.

Set into the oven until quite hot a common white dish, large enough to hold
the number of eggs to be cooked, allowing plenty of room for each. Melt in it a

EGGS. 20 1

small piece of butter, and breaking the eggs carefully in a saucer, one at a time,
slip them into the hot dish; sprinkle over them a small quantity of pepper and
salt, and allow them to cook four or five minutes. Adding a tablespoonful of
cream for every two eggs, when the eggs are first slipped in, is a great improve-
ment.

This is far more dehcate than fried ^gs.

Or prepare the eggs the same, and set them in a steamer, over boiling water.

They are usually served in hotels baked in individual dishes, about two in a
dish, and in the same dish they were baked in.

SCRAMBLED EGGS.

Put a tablespoonful of butter into a hot frying-pan ; tip around so that it will
touch aU sides of the pan. Having ready half a dozen eggs broken in a dish,
salted and peppered, turn them (without beating) into the hot butter; stir them
one way briskly for five or six minutes or until they are mixed. Be careful that
they do not get too hard. Turn over toast or dish up without.

POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS.

The beauty of a poached egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the
white, which should only be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil
for the egg.

Cook until the white is firm, and lift out with a griddle-cake turner, and place
on toasted bread. Serve immediately.

A tablespoonful of vinegar put into the water, keeps the eggs from spreading.

Open gem rings are nice placed in the water and an egg dropped into each

ring.

FRIED EGGS.

Break the eggs, one at a time, into a saucer, and then slide them carefully
off into a frying-pan of lard and butter mixed, dipping over the eggs the hot
grease in spoonfuls, or turn them over-frying both sides without breaking them.
They require about three minutes' cooking.

Eggs can be fried round Uke balls, by dropping one at a time into a quantity
of hot lard, the same as for fried cakes, first stirring the hot lard with a stick
until it runs roimd like a whirlpool; this will make the eggs look like balls.
Take out with a skinuner. Eggs can be poached the same in boiling water.

192 VEGETABLES.

ITALIAN STYLE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES.

Ten truffles, a quarter of a pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt to ta^te, one
tablespoonf ul of minced parsley, a very little finely minced garlic, two blades of
pounded mace, one tablespoonful of lemon- juice.

After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thin slices, and put
them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil or butter, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic
and mace, in the above proportion. Bake them for nearly an hour, and just
before serving, add the lemon juice and send them to table very hot.

TRUFFLES AU NATUREL.

Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them in several waters
with a brush, until not a i>article of sand or grit remains on them; wrap each
truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot oven for quite an hour; take off the
paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them in a hot napkin.

HDaccaronL

MACCARONI X LA ITALIENNE.

Divide a quarter of a pound of maocaroni into four-inch pieces. Simmer
fifteen minutes in plenty of boiling water, salted. Drain. Put the maccaroni
into a sauce-pan and turn over it a strong soup stock, enough to prevent burn-
ing. Strew over it an ounce of grated cheese; when the cheese is melted, dish.
Put alternate layers of maccaroni and cheese; then turn over the soup stock and
bake half an hour.

MACCARONI AND CHEESE*

Break half a pound of maccaroni into pieces an inch or two long; cook it in
boiling water enough to cover it well; put in a good teaspoonful of salt; let it
boil about twenty minutes. Drain it well, and then put a layer in the bottom of
a well-buttered pudding-dish, upon this some grated cheese, and small pieces of
butter, a bit of salt, then more maccaroni, and so on, filling the dish; sprinkle
the top layer with a thick layer of cracker-crumbs. Pour over the whole a tea-
cupful of cream or milk. Set it in the oven and bake half an hour. It should
be nicely browned on top. Serve in the same dish in which it was baked, with
a dean napkin pinned around it.

VEGETABLES. 193

TIMBALE OF MACCARONL

MACCARONI A LA CR£ME.

Boil one-quarter of a pound of maccaroni in plenty of hot water, salted, imtil
tender; put half a pint of milk in a double boiler, and when it boils stir into it a
mixture of two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour. Add two tablespoon-
fuls of cream, a little white and cayenne pepper; salt to taste, and from one-
quarter to one-half a pound of grated cheese according to taste. Drain and dish
the maccaroni; pour the boiling sauce over it, and serve immediately.

MACCARONI AND TOMATO SAUCE.

Divide half a pound of maccaroni into four-inch pieces, put it into boiling
salted water enough to cover it; boil from fifteen to tweuty minutes; then drain;
arrange it neatly on a hot dish, and pour tomato sauce over it, and serve imme-
diately while hot. See ^^ Sauces" for tomato sauce.

2 1 2 BREAD.

which flavors the bread and makes it disagreeable. A poor, thin yeast prodnoes
an imperfect fermentation, the result being a heavy unwholesome loaf.

If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself —that is to
say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has reached the proper
point for either — sour bread will probably be the consequence in warm weather,
and bad bread in any. The goodness will also be endangered by placing it so
near a fire as to make any part of it hot, instead of maintaining the gentle and
equal degree of heat required for its due fermentation.

Heavy bread will also most likely be the result of making the dough very
hard, and letting it become quite cold, particularly in winter.

An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made, and to
allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most common causes of
failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet, or which has been frozen, or
has had hot liquid poured over it.

As a general rule, the oven for baking bread should be rather quick, and the
heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough without hardening the outside. The
oven-door should not be opened after the bread is put in im^til the dough is set
or has become firm, as the cool air admitted wiU have an unfavorable effect on it.

The dough should risej and the bread b^gin to brown after about fitfteen
minutes, but only slightly. Bake from fifty to sixty minutes, and have it
brown, not black or whitey brown, but brown all over when well baked.

When the bread is baked, remove the loaves immediately from the pans,
and place them where the air will circulate freely around them and thus cany
off the gas which has been formed, but is no longer needed.

Never leave the bread in the pan or on a pine table to absorb the odor of the
wood. If you like crusts that are crisp do not cover the loaves; but to give the
soft, tender, wafer-like consistency which many prefer, wrap them, while still
hot, in several thicknesses of bread-doth. When cold put them in a stone jar,
removing the doth, as that absorbs the moisture and gives the bread an unpleasant
taste and odor. Keep the jar well covered, and carefully cleansed from crumbs
and stale pieces. Scald and dry it thoroughly every two or three days. A yard
and a half square of coarse table linen makes the best bread-doth. Keep in good
supply; use them for no other purpose.

Some people use scalding water in making wheat bread; in that case the flour
must be scalded and allowed to cool before the yeast is added, — ^then proceed as
above. Bread made in this manner keeps moist in summer, much longer than
when made in the usual mode.

Home-made yeast is generally preferred to any other. Compressed yeast, as

BREAD. 213

now sold in most grocery stores, makes jSne light, sweet bread, and is a much
quicker process, and can always be had fresh, being made fresh every day.

WHEAT BREAD.

Sift the flour into a large bread-pan or bowl; make a hole in the middle of it,
and pour in the yeast in the ratio of half a teacupful of yeast to two quarts of
flour; stir the yeast lightly, then pour in your " wetting, '* either milk or water,
as you choose, — which use warm in winter, and cold in summer; if you use
water as " wetting,'* dissolvein it a bit of butter of the size of an ^g,— if you
use milk, no butter is necessary; stir in the " wetting " very lightly, but do not
mix all the flour into it; then cover the pan with a thick blanket or towel, and
set it, in winter, in a warm place to rise, — ^this is called ^^ putting the bread in
^ponge.^^ In summer the bread should not be wet over night. In the morning
add a teaspoonful of salt and mix all the flour in the pan with the sponge,
kneading it well; then let it stand two hours or more until it has risen quite
light; then remove the dough to the molding-board and mold it for a long
time, cutting it in pieces and molding them together again and again, until the
dough is elastic under the pressmre of your hand, using as Uttle flour as possible;
then make it into loaves, put the loaves into baking-tins. The loaves should
come half-way up the pan, and they should be allowed to rise until the bulk is
doubled. When the loaves are ready to be put into the oven, the oven should
be ready to receive them. It should be hot enough to brown a teaspoonful of
floxu: in flve minutes. The heat should be greater at the bottom than at the top
of the oven, and the flre so arranged as to give sufficient strength of heat
through the baking without being replenished. Let them stand ten or fifteen
minutes, prick them three or four times with a fork, bake in a quick oven from
forty-five to sixty minutes.

If these directions are followed, you will obtain sweet, tender and wholesome
bread. If by any mistake the dough becomes sour before you are ready to bake
it, you can rectify it by adding a Uttie dry supercarbonate of soda, molding the
dough a long time to distribute the soda equally throughout the mass. All
bread is better, if naturally sweet, without the soda; but sour bread you should
never eat, if you desire good health.

Keep well covered in a tin box or large stone crock, which should be wiped
out every day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly in the sun once a week.

COMPRESSED YEAST BREAD.

Use for two loaves of bread three quarts of sifted flour, nearly a quart of
warm water, a level tablespoonful of salt, and an ounce of compressed yeast.

214 BREAD.

Pissolve the yeast in a pint of lukewarm water; then stir into it enough flour to
make a thick batter. Cover the bowl containing the batter or sponge with a
thick folded doth, and set it in a warm place to rise; if the temperature of heat
is properly attended to, the sponge will be foamy and light in half an hour.
Now stir into this sponge the salt dissolved in a little warm water, add the rest
of the flomr and sufficient warm water to make the dough stiff enough to knead;
then knead it from five to ten minutes, divide it into loaves, knead again each
loaf and put them into buttered baking-tins; cover them with a doubled thick
cloth, and set again in a warm place to rise twice their height, then bake the
same as any bread. This bread has the advantage of that made of home-made
yeast as it is made inside of three hours, whereas the other requires from twelve
to fourteen hours.

HOME-MADE YEAST.

Boil six large potatoes in three pints of water. Tie a handful of hops in a
small muslin bag and boil with the potatoes; when thoroughly cooked drain the
water on enough flour to make a thin batter; set this on the stove or range and
scald it enough to cook the flour, (this makes the yeast keep longer); remove it
from the fire, and when cool enough, add the potatoes mashed, also half a cup
of sugar, half a tablespoonful of ginger, two of salt and a teacupful of yeast.
Let it stand in a warm place until it has thoroughly risen, then put it in a large
mouthed jug, and cork tightly; set away in a cool place. The jug should be
scalded before putting in the yeast.

Two-thirds of a coff eecupful of this yeast will make four loaves.

•

UNRIVALED YEAST.

On one morning boil two ounces of the best hops in four quarts of water half
an hour; strain it, and let the liquor cool to the consistency of new milk; then
put it in an earthen bowl, and add half a cupful of salt, and half a cupful of
brown sugar; beat up one quart of flour with some of the liquor; then mix all
well together, and let it stand till the third day after; then add six medium-
sized potatoes, boiled and mashed through a colander; let it stand a day, then
strain and bottle, and it is fit for use. It mu^t be stirred frequently while it is
making, and kept near a fire. One advantage of this yeast is its spontaneous
fermentation, requiring the help of no old yeast; if care be taken to let it fer-
ment well in the bowl, it may immediately be corked tightly. Be careful to
keep it in a cool place. Before using it shake the bottie up well. It wiU keep
in a cool place two months, and is best the latter part of the time. Use about
the same quantity as of other yeast.

BREAD. 215

DRIED YEAST OR YEAST CAKES.

Make a pan of yeast the same as ^^ Home-made Yeast;" mix in with it corn-
meal that has been sifted and dried, kneading it well until it is thick enough to
roll out, when it can be cut into cakes or crumble up. Spread out and dry thor-
oughly in the shade; keep in a dry place.

When it is convenient to get compressed yeast, it is much better and cheaper
than to make your own, a saving of time and trouble. Almost all groceries keep
it, delivered to them fresh made daily.

SALT-RAISING BREAD.

While getting breakfast in the morning, as soon as the tea-kettle has boiled,
take a quart tin cup or an earthen quart milk pitcher, scald it, then fill one-third
full of water about as warm as the finger could be held in; then to this add a
teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of brown sugar and coarse flour enough to make a
batter of about the right consistency for griddle-cakes. Set the cup, with the
spoon in it, in a closed vessel half -filled with water, moderately hot, but not
scalding. Keep the temperature as nearly even as possible, and add a teaspoon-
ful of flour once or twice during the process of fermentation. The yeast ought
to reach to the top of the bowl in about five hours. Sift your flour into a pan,
make an opening in the centre, and pour in your yeast. Have ready a pitcher
of warm milk, salted, or milk and water, (not too hot, or you will scald the yeast
germs,) and stir rapidly into a pulpy mass with a spoon. Cover this sponge
closely, and keep warm for an hour, then knead into loaves, adding flour to
make the proper consistency. Place in warm, well-greased pans, cover closely,
and leave till it is light. Bake in a steady oven, and when done let all the hot
steam escape. Wrap closely in damp towels, and keep in closed earthen jars
until it is wanted.

This in our grandmothers' time used to be considered the prize bread, on
account of its being sweet and wholesome, and required no prepared yeast to
make it. Nowadays yeast-bread is made with very little trouble, as the yeast
can be procured at almost any grocery.

BREAD FROM MILK YEAST.

At noon the day before baking, take half a cup of corn-meal, and pour over
it enough sweet milk boiling hot to make it the thickness of batter-cakes. In
the winter place it where it will keep warm. The next morning before break-
fast pour into a pitcher a pint of boiling water; add one teaspoonful of soda and

2l6 BREAD.

one of salt. When cool enough so that it will not scald the flour, add enough to
make a stiff batter; then add the cup of meal set the day before. This will be
full of little bubbles. Then place the pitcher in a kettle of warm water, cover the
top with a folded towel and put it where it will keep warm, and you will be sur-
prised to find how soon the yeast will be at the top of the pitcher. Then pour
the yeast into a bread-pan; add a pint and a half of warm water, or half water
and half milk, and flour enough to knead into loaves. Enead but Uttle
harder than for biscuit, and bake as soon as it rises to the top of the tin. This
recipe makes flve large loaves. Do not allow it to get too light before baking,
for it will make the bread dry and crumbling. A cup of this milk yeast is excel-
lent to raise buckwheat cakes.

GRAHAM BREAD.

One teacupful of wheat flour, one-half teacupf ul of Porto Rico molasses, one
half cupful of good yeast, one teaspoonful of salt, one pint of warm water; add
sufficient Qraham flour to make the dough as stiff as can be stirred with a
strong spoon; this is to be mixed at night; in the morning, add one teaspoonful
of soda, dissolved in a little water; mix well, and pour into two medium-sized
pans; they will be about half full; let it stand in a warm place until it rises to
the top of the pans, then bake one hour in a pretty hot oven.

This should be covered about twenty minutes when first put into the oven
with a thick brown paper, or an old tin cover; it prevents the upper crust
hardening before the loaf is well- risen. If these directions are correctly fol-
lowed the bread will not be heavy or sodden, as it has been tried for years and
never failed.

GRAHAM BREAD. (Unfermented.)

Stibr together three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, three cups of
Qraham flour, and one cup of white flour; then add a large teaspoonful of salt
and half a cup of sugar. Mix all thoroughly with milk or water into as stiff a
batter as can be stirred withaspoon. If water is used, a lump of butter as large
as a walnut may be melted and stirred into it. Bake immediately in well-
greased pans.

BOSTON BROWN BREAD.

One pint of rye flour, one quart of com-meal, one teacupful of Graham flour,
all fresh; half a teacupful of molasses or brown sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, and
two-thirds of a teacupful of home-made yeast. Mix into as stiff a dough as can
be stirred withaspoon, usingwarm water for wetting. Let it rise several hours^

BREAD. 217

or over night; in the mornings or when light, add a teaspoonful of soda di£h

solved in a spoonful of warm water; beat it well and turn it into well-greased,

deep, bread-pans, andlet itriseagain. Bake in a moderate oven from three to four

hours.

— Palmer House, Chicago.

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. (Unfermented).

One cupful of rye flour, two cupfuls of corn-meal, one cupful of white flour,
half a teacupful of molasses or sugar, a teaspoonful of salt. Stir all together
thorougJUy, and wet up with sour milk; then add a level teaspoonful of soda dis-
solved in a tablespoonful of water. The same can be made of sweet milk, by
substituting baking-powder for soda. The batter to be stirred as thick as can be
with a spoon, and turned into weU-greased pans.

VIRGINIA BROWN BREAD.

One pint of corn-meal, pour over enough boiling water to thoroughly scald it;
when cool, add one pint of light, white bread sponge, mix well together, add one
cupful of molasses, and Graham flour enough to mold; this will make two
loaves; when light, bake in a moderate oven one and a half hours.

RHODE ISLAND BROWN BREAD.

Two and one-half cupfuls of corn-meal, one and one-half cupfuls of rye-meal,
one egg, one cup of molasses, two teaspoonf uls of cream of tartar, one teaspoon-
ful of soda, a little salt and one quart of milk. Bake in a covered dish, either
earthen or iron, in a moderately hot oven three hours.

STEAMED BROWN BREAD.

One cup of white flour, two of G-raham flour, two of Indian meal, one tea-
spoonful of soda, one cup of molasses, three and a half cups of milk, a little salt.
Beat well and steam for four hours. This is for sour milk; when sweet milk
is used, use baking powder in place of soda.

This is improved by setting it into the oven flfteen minutes after it is slipped
from the mold. To be eaten warm with butter. Most excellent.

RYE BREAD.

To a quart of warm water stir as much wheat floinr as will make a smooth

batter; stir into it half a gill of home-made yeast, and set it in a warm place to

rise; this is called setting a sponge; let it be mixed in some vessel which will

contain twice the quantity; in the morning, put three pounds and a half of rye

2l8 BREAD.

flour into a bowl or tray, make a hollow in the centre, pour in the sponge, add a
dessertspoonful of salt, and half a small teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in
a Uttle water; make the whole into a smooth dough, with as much warm water
as may be necessary; knead it well^ cover it, and let it set in a warm place for
three hours; then knead it again, and make it into two or three loaves; bake in
a quick oven one hour, if made in two loaves, or less if the loaves are smaller.

RYE AND CORN BREAD.

One quart of rye meal or rye flour, two quarts of Indian meal, scalded (by
placing in a pan and pouring over it just enough boiling water to merely wet it,
but not enough to make it into a batter, stirring constantly with a spoon), one-
half cup of molasses, two teaspoonfuls dalt, one teacup yeast; make it as stiff as
can be stirred with a spoon, mixing with warm water, and let rise all night. In
the morning add a level teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a httle water; then put
it in a large pan, smooth the top with the hand dipped in cold water; let it stand
a short time, and bake five or six hours. If put in the oven late in the day, let
it remain all night.

Graham may be used instead of rye, and baked as above.

This is similar to the '^ Bye and Injun " of our grandmothers' days, but that
was placed in a kettle, allowed to rise, then placed in a covered iron pan upon
the hearth before the fire, with coals heaped upon the Ud, to bake all night.

FRENCH BREAD.

Beat together one pint of milk, four tablespoonf uls of melted butter, or half
butter and half lard, half a cupful of yeast, one teaspoonful of salt and two ^ggs.
Stir into this two quarts of flour. When this dough is risen, make into two
large roUs, and bake as any bread. Out across the top diagonal gashes just be-
fore putting into the oven.

TWIST BREAD.

Let the bread be made as directed for wheat bread, then take three pieces as
large as a pint bowl each ; strew a little flour over the paste-board or table, roll
each piece under your hands, to twelve inches length, making it smaller in cir-
cumference at the ends than in the middle; having rolled the three in this way,
take a baking-tin, lay one part on it, join one end of each of the other two to it,
and braid them together the length of the rolls, and join the ends by pressing
them together; dip a brush in milk, and pass it over the top of the loaf; after
ten minutes or so, set it in a quick oven, and bake for nearly an hour.

BREAD. 219

NEW ENGLAND CORN CAKE.

One quart of milk, one pint of corn-meal, one teacupful of wheat flour, a tea-
spoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Scald the milk, and grad-
ually pour it on the meal; when cool, add the butter and salt, also a half cup of
yeast. Do this at night; in the morning beat thoroughly and add two well-
beaten eggs, and a half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoonful of water.
Pour the mixture into buttered deep earthen plates, let it stand fifteen minutes
to rise again, then bake from twenty to thirty minutes.

GERMAN BREAD.

One pint of milk well-bofled, one teacupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
nice lard or butter, two-thirds of a teacupful of baker's yeast. Make a rising
with the milk and yeast; when light, mix in the sugar and shortening, with
flour enough to make as soft a dough as can be handled. Flour the i)aste-board
well, roll out about one-half inch thick; put this quantity into two large pans;
make about a dozen indentures with the finger on the top; put a small piece of
butter in each, and sift over the whole one tablespoonful of sugar mixed with
one teaspoonful of cinnamon. Let this stand for a second rising; when per-
fectly light, bake in a quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes.

CORN BREAD. '

Two cups of sifted meal, half a cup of flour, two cups of sour milk, two well-
beaten %gs, half a cup of molasses or sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, two table-
spoonfuls of melted butter. Mix the meal and flour smoothly and gradually
with the milk, then the butter, molasses, and salt, then the beaten eggs, and
lastly dissolve a level teaspoonful of baking-soda in a little milk and beat thor-
oughly all together. Bake nearly an hour in well-buttered tins, not very shallow.
This recipe can be made with sweet milk by using baking-powder in place of soda.

— St. Charhs Hotel, New Orleans.

VIRGINIA CORN BREAD.

Three cups of white com- meal, one cup of flour, one tablespoonful of sugar,
one teaspoonful of salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one table-
spoonful of lard, three cups of milk and three eggs. Sift together the flour, com,
meal, sugar, salt and baking-powder; rub in the lard cold, add the eggs well-
beaten and then the milk. Mix into a moderately stiff batter; pour it into
well-greased, shallow baking-pans, (pie-tins are suitable). Bake from thirty to
forty minutes.

220 BREAD.

BOSTON CORN BREAD.

One cup of sweet milk, two of sour milk, two-thirds of a cup of molasses^
one of wheat flour, four of corn-meal and one teaspoonful of soda; steam for-
three hours, and brown a few minutes in the oven. The same made of sweet
milk and baking-powder is equally as good.

INDIAN LOAF CAKE.

Mix a teacupful of powdered white sugar with a quart of rich milk, and cut
up in the milk two ounces of butter, adding a saltspoonful of salt. ' Put this,
mixture into a cohered pan or skillet, and set it on the fire till it is scalding hot.
Then take it off, and scald with it as much yeUow Indian meal (previously sifted)
as will make it of the consisteiice of thick boiled mush. Beat the whole very
hard for a quarter of an hour, and then set it away to cool.

While it is cooUng, beat three eggs very light, and stir them gradually into
the mixture when it is about as warm as new milk. Add a teacupful of good
strong yeast, and beat the whole another quarter of an hour, for much of the
goodness of this cake depends on its being long and well-beaten. Then have '
ready a tin mold or earthen pan with a pipe in the centre, (to diffuse the heat
through the middle of the cake). The pan must be very well-buttered, as Indian
meal is apt to stick. Put in the mixture, cover it, and set it in a warm place to.
rise. It should be hght in about four hours. Then bake it two hours in a
moderate oven. When done, turn it out with the broad surface downwards,
and send it to table hot and whole. Cut it into slices and eat it with butter.

This win be found an excellent cake. If wanted for breakfast, TmV it, and

set it to rise the night before. If properly made, standing all night will not

injure it. Like aU Indian cakes, (of which this is one of the best), it should be

eaten warm.

— St. Charles Hotels New Orleans.

JOHNNIE CAKE.

Sift one quart of Indian meal into a pan; make a hole in the middle and pour

in a pint of warm water, adding one teaspoonful of salt; with a spoon mix the

meal and water gradually into a soft dough; stir it very briskly for a quarter of

an hour or more, tiU it becomes light and spongy; then spread the dough smooth

and evenly on a straight, flat board (a piece of the head of a flour-barrel will

serve for this purpose); place the board nearly upright before an open flre, and

put an iron against the back to support it; bake it well; when done, cut it in,

squares; send it hot to table, split and buttered.

—Old Plantation Style.

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 221

SPIDER CORN-CAKE.

Beat two eggs and one-fourth cup sugar together. Then add one cup sweet
milk, and one cup of sour milk in which you have dissolved one teaspoonf ul
soda. Add a teaspoonful of salt. Then mix one and two-thirds cups of granu-
lated corn-meal and one-third cup flour with this. Put a spider or skillet on the
range, and when it is hot melt in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Turn the spider
so that the butter can run up on the sides of the pan. Pour in the corn-cake
mixture and add one more cup of sweet milk, but do not stir afterwards. Put
this in the oven and bake from twenty to thirty-five minutes. When done, there
should be a streak of custard through it.

SOUTHERN CORN-MEAL PONE OR CORN DODGERS.

Mix with cold water into a soft dough one quart of southern corn-meal,
sifted, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of butter or lard melted. Mold
into oval cakes with the hands and bake in a very hot oven, in well-greased
pans. To be eaten hot. The crust should be brown.

RAISED POTATO-CAKE.

Potato-cakes, to be served with roast lamb or with game, are made of equal
quantities of mashed potatoes and of flour, say one quart of each, two table-
spoonfuls of butter, a httle salt, and milk enough to make a batter as for gi-iddle-
cakes; to this allow half a teacupful of fresh yeast; let it rise till it is light and
bubbles of air form; then dissolve half a teaspoonful of soda in a spoonful of
warm water and add to the batter; bake in muffin tins. These are good also
with fricasseed chicken; take them from the tins and drop in the gravy just
before sending to the table.

Biscuits, IRoIIs, ^utHna, iBtc

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS.

In making batter-cakes, the ingredients should be put together over night to
rise, and the eggs and butter added in the morning; the butter melted and eggs
well-beaten. If the batter appears sour in the least, dissolve a httle soda and
stir into it; this shotdd be done early enough to rise some time before baking.

Water can be u'ted in place of milk in all raised dough, and the dough should
be thoroughly ligH before making into loaves or biscuits; then when molding

222 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

them, use as little flour as possible; the kneading to be done when first made
from the sponge, and should be done well and for some length of time, as this
makes the pores fine, the bread cut smooth and tender. Care should be taken
not to get the dough too stiff.

Where any recipe calls for baking-powder, and you do not have it, you can
use cream-tartar and soda, in the proportion of one level teaspoonful of soda to
two of cream-tartar.

When the recipe calls for sweet Tm'lTr or cream, and you do not have it, you
may use in place of it som* milk or cream, and, in that case, baking-powder or
cream of tartar must not be used, but baking-soda, using a 2et;e2 teaspoonful to
a quart of sour milk; the milk is always best when just turned, so that it is
solid, and not sour enough to whey or to be watery.

When making biscuits or bread with baking-powder or soda and cream
tartar, the oven should be prepared first; the dough handled quickly and put
into the oven immediately, as soon as it becomes the proper lightness, to ensiu«
good success. If the oven is too slow, the article baked will be heavy and hard.

As in beating cake, never stir ingredients into batter, but beat them in, by
beating down from the bottom, and up, and over again. This laps the air into
the batter, which produces little air-cells and causes the dough to puff and swell
as it comes in contact with the heat while cooking.

TO RENEW STALE ROLLS.

To freshen stale biscuits or rolls, put them into a steamer for ten minutes,
then dry them off in a hot oven; or dip each roU for an instant in cold water and
heat them crisp in the oven.

WARM BREAD FOR BREAKFAST.

Dough, after it has become once sufSciently raised and perfectly light, cannot
afterwards be injured by setting aside in any cold place where it cannot freeze;
therefore, biscuits, rolls, etc., can be made late the day before wanted for break-
fast. Prepare them ready for baking by molding them out late in the evening;
lay them a Uttle apart on buttered tins; cover the tins with a doth, then fold
around that a newspaper, so as to exclude the air, as that has a tendency to
cause the crust to be hard and thick when baked. The best place in summer
is to place them in the ice-box, then all you have to do in the morning (an hour
before breakfast time, and while the oven is heating) is to bring them from
the ice-box, take off the cloth and warm it, and place it over them again; then
set the tins in a warm place near the fire. This will give them time to rise and

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS^ ETC. 223

bake when needed. If these directions are followed rightly, you will find it
makes no difference with their lightness and goodness, and you can always be
sure of warm raised biscuits for breakfast in one hour's time.

Stale rolls may be made light and flakey by dipping for a moment in cold
wat», and placing immediately in a very hot oven to be made ciisp and hot.

teaspoonful

SODA BISCUIT.

le teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls

of butter, and wet with one pint of sweet milk. Bake in a quick oven.

BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT.

Two pints of flour, butter the size of an egg, three heaping teaspoonfuls of
baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of salt; make a soft dough of sweet Tnillr or
water, knead as little as possible, cut out with the usual biscuit-cutter and bake
in rather a quick oven.

SOUR MILK BISCUIT.

Bub into a quart of sifted flour a piece of butter the size of an egg, one tea.
spoonful of salt; stir into this a pint of sour milk, dissolve one teaspoonful of
soda, and stir into the milk just as you add it to the flour; knead it up quickly,
roll it out nearly half an inch thick, and cut out with a biscuit-cutter; bake im-
mediately in a quick oven.

Very nice biscuit may be made with sour cream without the butter by the
same process.

RAISED BISCUIT.

Sift two quarts of flour in a mixing-pan, make a hole in the middle of the
flour, pour into this one pint of warm water or new milk, one teaspoonful of
salt, half a cup of melted lard or butter, stir in a little flour, then add half a cup-
ful of yeast, after which stir in as much flour as you can conveniently with
your hand, let it rise over night; in the morning add nearly a teaspoonful of
soda, and more flour as is needed to make a rather soft dough; then mold fif-
teen to twenty minutes, the longer the better; let it rise until light again, roll
this out about half an inch thick, and cut out with a biscuit-cutter, or make it
into little balls with your hands; cover and set in a warm place to rise. When
light, bake a li^t brown in a moderate oven. Bub a little warm butter or sweet
lard on the sides of the biscuits when you place them on the tins, to pirevent
their sticking together when baked.

224 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

LIGHT BISCUIT. No. x.

Take a piece of bread dough that will make about as many biscuits as you
wish; lay it out rather flat in a bowl; break into it two e^s; half a cup of
sugai', half a cup of butter; rmV this thoroughly with enough flour to keep it
fix>m sticking to the hands and board. Knead it well for about fifteen or twenty
minutes, make into small biscuits, place in a greased pan, and let them rise until
about even with the top of the pan. Bake in a quick oven for about half an
hour.

These can be made in the form of rolls, which some prefer.

LIGHT BISCUIT. No. 2.

When you bake take a pint of sponge, one tablespoonful of melted butter,
one tablespoonful of sugar, the white of one egg beaten to a foam. Let rise un-
til light, mold into biscuits, and when light bake.

GRAHAM BISCUITS, WITH YEAST.

Take one pint of water or milk, one large tablespoonful of butter, two table-
spoonfuls of sugar, a half cup of yeast, and a pinch of salt; take enough wheat
flour to use up the water, making it the consistency of batter-cakes; add the rest
of the ingredients and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in with a spoon;
set it away tiU morning; in the morning, grease a i)an, flour your hands, take a
lump of dough the size of an egg, roll it lightly between the palms of your
hands, let them rise twenty minutes, and bake in a tolerably hot oven.

EGG BISCUIT.

Sift together a quart of dry flour and three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-
powder. Rub into this thoroughly a piece of butter the size of an egg; add two
well-beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt. Mix all to-
gether quickly into a soft dough, with one cup of milk, or more if needed. Boll
out nearly half of an inch thick. Cut into biscuits, and bake immediately in a
quick oven from fifteen to twenty minutes.

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS.

One pint of milk, boiled and cooled; a piece of butter the size of an egg; one-
half cupful of fresh yeast; one tablespoonful of sugar, one pinch of salt, and two
quarts of sifted flour.

Melt the butter in the warm milk, then add the sugar, salt and flour, and let
it rise over night. Mix leather soft. In the morning, add to this half of a tea-

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFJrNS, ETC. 225

spoonful of soda dissolved in a spoonful of water. Mix in enough flour to make
the same stiffness as any biscuit dough; roU out not more than a quarter of an
inch thick. Cut with a large round cutter; spread soft butter over the tops and
fold one-half over the other by doubling it. Place them apart a little so that
there will be room to rise. Cover, and place them near the fire for fifteen or
twenty minutes before baking. Bake in rather a quick oven.

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. (Unfermented.)

These rolls are made with baking-powder, and are much sooner made, although
the preceding recipe is the old original one from the "Parker House.'* Stir
into a quart of sifted flour three large teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a table-
spoonful of cold butter, a teaspoonful of salt and one of sugar, and a well-beaten
egg; rub all well into the flour, pour in a pint of cold milk, mix up quickly into
a smooth dough, roll it out less than half an inch thick, cut with a large biscuit-
cutter, spread soft butter over the top of each, fold one half over the other by
doubling it, lay them a Uttle apart on greased tins. Set them immediately in a
pretty hot oven. Bub over the tops with sweet milk before putting in the oven,
to give them a glaze.

FRENCH ROLLS.

Three cups of sweet milk, one cup of butter and lard, mixed in equal propor-
tions, one-half cup of good yeast, or half a cake of compressed yeast, and a tea-
Bpoonful of salt. Add flour enough to make a stiff dough. Let it rise over
night; in the morning, add two well-beaten eggs; knead thoroughly, and let it
rise again. With the hands, make it into balls as large as an egg; then roll be-
tween the hands to make long rolls y (about three inches.) Place close together
in even rows on well-buttered pans. Cover and let them rise again, then bake
in a quick oven to a delicate brown.

BEATEN BISCUIT.

Two quarts of sifted flour, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of sweet lard,
-one egg; make up with half a pint of milk, or, if milk is not to be had, plain
water will answer; beat well until the dough blisters and cracks; pull off a two-
inch square of the dough; roll it into a ball with the hand; flatten, stick with a
fork, and bake in a quick oven.

It is not beating hard that makes the biscuit nice, but the regularity of the
motion. Beating hard, the old cooks say, kills the dough. An old-fashioned
.Southern recipe.

226 BREAJD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

POTATO BISCUIT.

Boil six good-sized potatoes with their jackets on; take them out -with a
skimmer, drain and squeeze with a towel to ensure being dry; then remove the
skin, mash them perfectly free from lumps, add a tablespoonful of butter, one
egg, and a pint of sweet milk. When cool, beat in half a cup of yeast. Put in
just enough flour to make a stiff dough. When this rises, make into small
cakes. Let them rise the same as biscuit and bake a delicate brown.

This dough is very fine, dropped into meat soups for pot-pie.

VINEGAR BISCUITS.
Take two quarts of flour, one laige tablespoonful of lard or butter, one table-
spoonful and a half of vinegar and one teaspoonful of soda; put the soda in the
vinegar and stir it well; stir in the flour; beat two eggs very light and add to it;
make a dough with warm water stiff enough to roll out, and cut with a
biscuit-cutter one inch thick, and bake in a qaich oven.

GRAFTON MILK BISCUITS.

Boil and mash two white potatoes; add two teaspoonf uls of brown sugar;
pour boiling water over these, enough to soften them. When tepid, add one
small teacupful of yeast; when light, warm three ounces of butter in one pint of
milk, a httle salt, a third of a teaspoonful of soda, andflour enough to make stiff
sppnge; when risen, work it on the board; put it back in the tray to rise again;
when risen, roll into cakes, and let them stand half an hour. Bake in a qaich
oven. These biscuits are fine.

SALLY LUNN.

Warm one-half cupful of butter in a pint of milk; add a teaspoonful of salt»
a tablespoonful of sugar, and seven cupfuls of sifted flour; beat thoroughly, and
when the mixture is blood warm, add four beaten eggs, and last of all, half a
cup of good lively yeast. Beat hard until the batter breaks in blisters. Set it to
rise over night. In the morning, dissolve half a teaspoonful of soda, i^ it into
the batter and turn it into a well-buttered, shallow dish to rise again about flf-
teen or twenty minutes. Bake about fifteen to twenty minutes.

The cake should be torn apart, not cut; cutting with a knife makes warm
bread heavy. Bake a light brown. This cake is frequently seen on Southern
tables.

SALLY LUNN. (Unfermcnted.)

Bub a piece of butter as large as an egg into a quart of flour; add a tumbler
of milk, two eggs, three tablespoonf uls of sugar, three teaspoonf uls of baking

BREAD— BISCUITS^ ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 22T

powder, and a teaspoonful of salt. Scatter the baking-powder, salt and sugar
into the flour; add the ^ggs, the butter, melted, the milk. Stir all together, and
bake in well-greased roxmd pans. Eat warm with butter.

LONDON HOT-CROSS BUNS.

Three cups of milk, one cup of yeast, or one cake of compressed yeast dis-
solved in a cup of tepid water, and flour enough to make a thick batter; set this
as a si)onge over night. In the morning, add half a cup of melted butter, one
cup of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one saltspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful
of soda, and flour enough to roll out like biscuit. Eaiead well and set to rise for
five hours. Boll the dough half an inch thick; cut in round cakes, and lay in
rows in a buttered baking-pan, and let the cakes stand half an Lorn:; or until
light; then put them in the oven, having first made a deep cross on each with
a knife. Bake a light brown, and brush over with white of egg beaten stiff with
powdered sugar.

RUSKS, WITH YEAST.

In one large coffee-cup of warm milk, dissolve half a cake of compressed
yeast, or three tablespoonfuls of home-made yeast; to this add three well-beaten,
eggs, a small cup of sugar, and a teaspoonful of salt; beat these together.
Use flour enough to make a smooth, light dough, let it stand until very light^.
then knead it in the form of biscuits; place them on buttered tins, and let them
rise until they are almost up to the edge of the tins; pierce the top of each one,,
and bake in a quick oven. Glaze the tops of each with sugar and milk, or the
white of an egg, before baking. Some add dried ciurants, well- washed and
dried in the oven.

RUSKS.

Two cups of raised dough, one of sugar, half a cup of butter, two well beaten:
eggs, floiu* enough to make a stiff dough; set to rise, and when light, mold into
high biscuit, and let rise again; rub damp sugar and cinnamon over the top and
place in the oven. Bake about twenty minutes.

RUSKS. (Unfermented.)

Three cups of flour sifted, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one teaspoon-
ful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, three
eggs^ half a nutmeg grated and a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, two sn^iall
cups of milk; sift together salt, flour, sugar and baking-powder; rub in the but-
ter cold; add the milk, beaten eggs and spices; rnix into a soft dough, break off

22S BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

pieces about as large as an egg, roll them under the hands into round balls, rub
■the tops with sugar and water mixed, and then spnnkle dry sugar over them.
Sake inmiediately.

SCOTCH SCONES

Thoroughly mix, while dry, one quart of sifted flour, loosely measured, with
two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; then rub into it a tablespoonful of
oold butter, and a teaspoonful of salt. Be sure that the butter is well worked
m. Add sweet milk enough to make a very soft paste. BoU out the paste about
a quarter of an inch thick, using plenty of flour on the paste-board, and rolling-
pin. Cut it into triangular pieces, each side about four inches long. Flour the
sides and bottom of a biscuit-tin, and place the pieces on it. Bake immediately
:in a quick oven from twenty to thirty minutes. When half done, brush over
with sweet milk. Some cooks prefer to bake them on a floured griddle, and cut
them a round shape the size of a saucer, then scarred across to form four
'Quarters.

CRACKNELS.

Two cups of rich milk, four tablespoonf uls of butter and a gill of yeast, a
teaspoonful of salt; mix warm, add flour enough to make a light dough. When
light, roll thin, and cut in long pieces three inches wide, prick well with a fork,
and bake in a slow oven. They are to be mixed rather hard, and rolled very
4hin, like soda crackers.

RAISED MUFFINS. No. z.

Make a batter of one pint of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of sugar, one of
«alt, a tablespoonful of butter or sweet lard, and a half cup of yeast; add flour
enough to make it moderately thick; keep it in a warm, not hot^ place, until it is
quite light, then stir in one or two well-beaten eggs, and half a teaspoonful of
:6oda, dissolved in a Uttle warm water. Let the batter stand twenty-flve or thirty
minutes longer to rise a little, turn into well-greased muffin-rings or gem-pans,
and bake in a quick oven.

To be served hot, and torn open, instead of cut with a knife.

RAISED MUFFINS. No. 2.

Three pints of flour, three eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, two
Tieaping teaspoonfuls of white sugar, one-half cake of compressed yeast, and a
-quart of milk; warm the milk with the butter in it; cool a little, stir in the
sugar and add a little salt; stir this gradually into the flour, then add the eggs
well-beaten; dissolve the yeast in half a cup of luke-warm water and add to the

BREAD— BISCUlTSy ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 229

other ingredients; if the muffins are wanted for luncheon, mix them about
eight o'clock in the morning; if for breakfast, set them at ten o'clock at night;
when ready for baking, stir in half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a tea-
spoonful of hot water; butter the muflfin-ring or gem-irons, and bake in a quick
oven.

EGG MUFFINS. (Fine.)

One quart of flour, sifted twice; three eggs, the whites and yolks beaten sep-
arately, three teacups of sweet milk, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of
sugar, a large tablespoonful of lard or butter, and two heaping teaspoonfuls of
baking-powder. Sift together flom*, sugar, salt and baking-powder; rub in the
lard cold, add the beaten eggs and milk; mix quickly into a smooth batter, a
little firmer than for griddleKakes. Grease well some mufSn-pans, and fill them
two-thirds full. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes. These, made
of cream, omitting the butter, are excellent.

PLAIN MUFFINS.

One ^g, well-beaten, a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of sugar,
with a teaspoonful of salt, all beaten imtil very light. One cup of milk, three
of sifted flour, and three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. One-half Graham and
one -half rye meal may be used instead of wheat flour, or two cups of corn-meal
and one of flour.

Drop on well-greased patty-pans and bake twenty minutes in a rather quick
oven, or bake on a griddle in muffin-rings.

MUFFINS WITHOUT EGGS.

One quart of buttermilk, a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, a little
salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Drop in hot gem-pans and bake
in a quick oven. Two or three tablespoonfuls of sour cream will make them a
little richer.

TENNESSEE MUFFINS.

One pint of corn-meal, one pint of flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one tea-
spoonful of salt, three of baking-powder, one tablespoonful of lard or butter, two
eggs, and a pint of milk. Sift together com-meal, flour, sugar, salt, and pow-
der; rub in lard or butter cold, and eggs beaten and milk; mix into batter of
consistence of cup-cake; muflfin-rings to be cold and well-greased, then fill two-
thirds full. Bake in hot oven fifteen minutes.

220 BREAD.

BOSTON CORN BREAD.
One cup of sweet milk, two of sour milk, two-thirds of a cup of molassesv,
one of wheat flour, four of corn-meal and one teaspoonful of soda; steam for
three hours, and brown a few minutes in the oven. The same made of sweetv
milk and baking-powder is equally as good.

INDIAN LOAF CAKE.

Mix a teacupful of powdered white sugar with a quart of rich milk, and cut.
up in the milk two ounces of butter, adding a saltspoonful of salt. ' Put this,
mixture into a cohered pan or skillet, and set it on the fire till it is scalding hot.
Then take it off, and scald with it as much yellow Indian meal (previously sifted)
as will make it of the consistepce of thick boiled mush. Beat the whole very
hard for a quarter of an hour, and then set it away to cool.

While it is cooling, beat three eggs very light, and stir them gradually into
the mixture when it is about as warm as new milk. Add a teacupful of good
strong yeast, and beat the whole another quarter of an hour, for much of the
goodness of this cake depends on its being long and well-beaten. Then have
ready a tin mold or earthen pan with a pipe in the centre, (to diffuse the heat
through the middle of the cake). The pan must be very well-buttered, as Indian
meal is apt to stick. Put in the mixture, cover it, and set it in a warm place to.
rise. It should be light in about four hours. Then bake it two hours in a:
moderate oven. When done, turn it out with the broad surface downwards,
and send it to table hot and whole. Cut it into sUces and eat it with butter.

This wiU be found an excellent cake. If wanted for breakfast, mix it, and
set it to rise the night before. If properly made, standing all night will not
injure it. like all Indian cakes, (of which this is one of the best), it should be

eaten warm.

— St, Charlss Hotel, New Orleans.

JOHNNIE CAKE.

Sift one quart of Indian meal into a pan; make a hole in the middle and pour

in a pint of warm water, adding one teaspoonful of salt; with a spoon mix the

meal and water gradually into a soft dough; stir it very briskly for a quarter of

an hour or more, tiU it becomes light and spongy; then spread the dough smooth

and evenly on a straight, flat board (a piece of the head of a flour-barrel will

serve for this purpose); place the board nearly upright before an open fire, and

put an iron against the back to support it; bake it well; when done, cut it in,

squares; send it hot to table, split and buttered.

— OW Plantation Style.

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 221

SPIDER CORN-CAKE.

Beat two eggs and one-fourth cup sugar together. Then add one cup sweet
milk, and one cup of sour milk in which you have dissolved one teaspoonf ul
soda. Add a teaspoonful of salt. Then mix one and two-thirds cups of granu-
lated com-meal and one-third cup flour with this. Put a spider or skillet on the
range, and when it is hot melt in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Turn the spider
so that the butter can run up on the sides of the pan. Pour in the corn-cake
mixture and add one more cup of sweet milk, but do not stir afterwards. Put
this in the oven and bake from twenty to thirty-five minutes. When done, there
should be a streak of custard through it.

SOUTHERN CORN-MEAL PONE OR CORN DODGERS.

Mix with cold water into a soft dough one quart of southern com-meal,
sifted, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of butter or lard melted. Mold
into oval cakes with the hands and bake in a very hot oven, in well-greased
pans. To be eaten hot. The crust should be brown.

RAISED POTATO-CAKE.

Potato-cakes, to be served with roast lamb or with game, are made of equal
quantities of mashed potatoes and of flour, say one quart of each, two table-
spoonfuls of butter, a Uttle salt, and milk enough to make a batter as for giidclle-
cakes; to this allow half a teacupful of fresh yeast; let it rise till it is light and
bubbles of air form; then dissolve half a teaspoonful of soda in a spoonful of
warm water and add to the batter; bake in mufiSn tins. These are good also
with fricasseed chicken; take them from the tins and drop in the gravy just
before sending to the table.

Biscuits, IRoIIs, /IDufHns, iStc

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS.

In making batter -cakes, the ingredients should be put together over night to
rise, and the eggs and butter added in the morning; the butter melted and eggs
weU-beaten. If the batter appears sour in the least, dissolve a little soda and
stir into it; this shoold be done early enough to rise some time before baking.

Water can be \rieA in place of milk in all raised dough, and the dough should
be thoroughly ligH before making into loaves or biscuits; then when molding

222 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

them, use as Utile flour as possible; the kneading to be done when first made
from the sponge, and should be done well and for some length of time, as this
makes the pores fine, the bread cut smooth and tender. Care should be taken
not to get the dough too stiff.

Where any recipe calls for baking-powder, and you do not have it, you can
use cream-tartar and soda, in the proportion of one level teaspoonful of soda to
two of cream-tartar.

When the recipe calls for sweet milk or cream, and you do not have it, you
may use in place of it sour TniUr or cream, and, in that case, baking-powder or
cream of tartar must not be used, but baking-soda, using a Uvd teaspoonful to
a quart of sour milk; the Tnillr is always best when just turned, so that it is
solid, and not sour enough to whey or to be watery.

When making biscuits or bread with baking-powder or soda and cream
tartar, the oven should be prepared first; the dough handled quickly and put
into the oven immediately, as soon as it becomes the proper hghtness, to ensure
good success. If the oven is too slow, the article baked will be heavy and hard.

TO RENEW STALE ROLLS.

To freshen stale biscuits or rolls, put them into a steamer for ten minutes,
then dry them off in a hot oven; or dip each roll for an instant in cold water and
heat them crisp in the oven.

WARM BREAD FOR BREAKFAST.

Dough, after it has become once sufficiently raised and perfectly light, cannot
afterwards be injured by setting aside in any cold place where it cannot freeze;
therefore, biscuits, roUs, etc., can be made late the day before wanted for break-
fast. Prei>are them ready for baking by molding them out late in the evening;
lay them a little apart on buttered tins; cover the tins with a cloth, then fold
around that a newspaper, so as to exclude the air, as that has a tendency to
cause the crust to be hard and thick when baked. The best place in summer
is to place them in the ice-box, then all you have to do in the morning (an hour
before breakfast time, and while the oven is heating) is to bring them from
the ice-box, take off the doth and warm it, and place it over them again; then
set the tins in a warm place near the fire. This will give them time to rise and

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS^ ETC. 223

Stale rolls may be made light and flakey by dipping for a moment in cold
water, and placing immediately in a very hot oven to be made crisp and hot.

teaspoonful

SODA BISCUIT.

le teaspoonful of soda» two teaspoonfuls

of butter, and wet with one pint of sweet milk. Bake in a quick oven.

BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT.

Two pints of flour, butter the size of an egg, three heaping teaspoonfuls of
baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of salt; make a soft dough of sweet TnilTr or
water, knead as Uttle as possible, cut out with the usual biscuit-cutter and bake
in rather a quick oven.

SOUR MILK BISCUIT.

Bub into a quart of sifted flour a piece of butter the size ot an egg, one tea.
spoonful of salt; stir into this a pint of sour milk, dissolve one teaspoonful of
soda, and stir into the milk just as you add it to the flour; knead it up quickly,
roll it out nearly half an inch thicks and cut out with a biscuit-cutter; bake im-
mediately in a quick oven.

Very nice biscuit may be made with sour cream without the butter by the
same process.

RAISED BISCUIT.

Sift two quarts of flour in a mixing-pan, make a hole in the middle of the
flour, pour into this one pint of warm water or new milk, one teaspoonful of
salt, half a cup of melted lead or butter, stir in a little flour, then add half a cup*
ful of yeasty after which stir in as much flour as you can conveniently with
your hand, let it rise over night; in the morning add nearly a teaspoonful of
soda^ and more flour as is needed to make a rather soft dough; then mold fif-
teen to twenty minutes, the longer the better; let it rise until light again, roll
this out about half an inch thick, and cut out with a biscuit-cutter, or make it
into Uttie balls with your hands; cover and set in a warm place to rise. When
light, bake a light brown in a moderate oven. Bub a little warm butter or sweet
lard on the sides of the biscuits when you place them on the tins, to pirevem
their sticking together when baked.

234 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

fill of salt, a tablespoonful of melted butter, and a level teaspoonful of soda dis-
solved in a little milk or cold water, added last; then bake on a hot griddle^
well greased, brown on both sides.

CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES. (With Yeast.)
Stir into one quart of boiling TnilTr three cups of corn-meal; after it cools, add
one cup of white flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and three tablespoonfuls of home-
made yeast. Mix this over night. In the morning, add one tablespoonful of
melted butter or lard, two beaten eggs, and a teaspoonful of soda> dissolved in a
little water.

This batter should stand a few minutes, after adding the butter and soda^
lihat it should have time to rise a little; in the meantime, the griddle could be
heating. Take a small stick like a good-sized skewer, wind a bit of cloth around
the end of it, fasten it by winding a piece of thread around that and tying it
Arm. Melt together a tablespoonful of butter and lard. Grease the griddle with
this. Between each batch of cakes, wipe the griddle off with a dean paper or
<2loth, and grease afresh. Put the cakes on by spoonfuls, or pour them carefully
from a pitcher, trying to get them as near the same size as possible. As soon as
they begin to bubble all over turn them, and cook on the other side till they
fitop pufi&ng. The second lot always cooks better than the first, as the griddle
becomes evenly heated.

CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES.

Scald two cups of sifted meal, mix with a cup of wheat flour, and a teaspoon-
ful of salt. Add three weU-beaten %gs; thin the whole with sour milk enough
to make it the right consistency. Beat the whole till very light, and add a tea-
spoonful of baking-soda dissolved in a little water. If you use sweet milk, use
two large teaspoonfuls of baking-powder instead of soda.

GRIDDLE-CAKES. (Very Good.)

One quart of Graham flour, half a pint of Indian meal, one gfll of yeast, a
teaspoonful of salt; mix the flour and meal, pour on enough warm water to
make batter rather thicker than that for buckwheat cakes; add the yeast, and
vrhen light bake on griddle not too hot.

GRAHAM GRIDDLE-CAKES.
Mix together dry two cups of Graham flour, one cup wheat flour, two heap-
ing teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of salt. Then add three
«ggs well-beaten, one tablespoonful of lard or butter melted, and three cups of
sweet milk. Cook immediately on a hot griddle.

BREAD— BISCUlTSy ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 235

BREAD GRIDDLE-CAKES.

One quart of milk, boiling hot; two cups jfine bread-crumbs, three eggs, one
tablespoonful melted butter, one-half t^aspoonf ul salt, one-half teaspoonful soda,
dissolved in warm water; break the bread into the boiling milk, and let stand
for ten minutes in a covered bowl, then beat to a smooth paste; add the yolks of
the eggs well- whipped, the butter, salt, soda, and finally the whites of the eggs
previously whipped stiff, and add half of a cupful of flour. These can also be
made of sour nulk, soaking the bread in it over night, and using a little more
soda.

RICE GRIDDLE-CAKES.

Two cupfuls of cold boiled rice, one pint of flour, one teaspoonful sugar, one-
naif teaspoonful salt, one and one-half teaspoonfuls baking-powder, one egg, a
little more than half a pint of milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder;
add rice free from lumps, diluted with beaten egg and milk; mix into smooth
batter. Have griddle well-heated, make cakes large, bake nicely brown, and
serve with maple syrup.

POTATO GRIDDLE-CAKES.
Twelve large potatoes, three heaping tablespoonf uls of flom*, one teaspoonful
of baking-powder, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one or two eggs, two teacupf uls
of boiling ndlk. The potatoes are peeled, washed and grated into a Uttle cold
water, (which keeps them white), then strain off water and pour on boiling
nailk, stir in eggs, salt and flour, mixed with the baking-powder; if agreeable,
flavor with a little fine chopped onion; bake like any other pan-cakes, allowing a
little more lard or butter. Serve with stewed or preserved fruit, especially with
huckleberries.

GREEN CORN GRIDDLE-CAKES.

One pint of milk, two cups grated green com, a little salt, two eggs, a tea-
spoonful of baking-powder, fiour sufficient to make a batter to fry on the
griddle. Butter them hot and serve.

HUCKLEBERRY GRIDDLE-CAKES.

Made the same as above, leaving out one cup of milk, adding one tablespoon-
idl of sugar, and a pint of huckleberries, rolled in flour. Blackberries or rasp-
berries can be used in the same manner.

FRENCH GRIDDLE-CAKES.

Beat together, until smooth, six eggs and a pint sifted flour; melt one ounce
^f I. utter, and add to the batter, with one ounce of sugar and a cup of milk;

236 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

beat untQ smooth; put a tablespoonful at a time into a frying-pan, slightly
greased, spreading the batter evenly over the surface by tipping the pan about;
fry to a light brown; spread with jelly, roll up, dust with powdered sugar and
serve hot.

RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES-

Take a small crock or large earthen pitcher, put into it a quart of warm
water or half water and milk, one heaping teaspoonful of salt; then stir in as
much buckwheat flour as will thicken it to rather a stiff batter; lastly add half a
cup of yeast; make it smooth, cover it up warm to rise over night; in the morning,
add a small, level teaspoonful of soda^ dissolved in a Uttle warm water; this will
remove any sour taste, if any, and increase the lightness.

Not a few object to eating buckwheat, as its tendency is to thicken the
blood, and also to produce constipation; this can be remedied by making the
batter one-third corn-meal and two-thirds buckwheat, which makes the cakes
equally as good. Many prefer them in this way.

BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITHOUT YEAST.

Two cups of buckwheat flour, one of wheat flour, a Uttle salt, three tea-
spoonfuls baking-powder; mix thoroughly, and add about equal parts of milk
and water until the batter is of the right consistency, then stir until free from
lumps. If they do not brown well, add a little molasses.

BUCKWHEAT CAKES.

Half a pint of buckwheat flour, a quarter of a pint of corn-meal, a quarter of
a pint of wheat flour, a Uttle salt, two eggs beaten very Ught, one quart of new
milk (made a Uttle warm, and mixed with the eggs before the flour is put in),
one tablespoonful of butter or sweet lard, two large tablespoonfuls of yeast. Set
it to rise at night for the morning. If in the least sour, stir in before baking
just enough soda to correct the acidity. A very nice, but more expensive recipe.

SWEDISH GRIDDLE-CAKES.

One pint of white flour, sifted; six eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately
to the utmost; one saltspoonful of salt; one saltspoonful of soda dissolved in
vinegar; milk to make a thin batter.

Beat the yolks light, add the salt, soda, two cupfuls of milk, then the flour^
and beaten whites alternately; thin with more milk if necessary

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 237

CORN-MEAL FRITTERS.

One pint of sour milk, one teaspoonful of salt, three eggs, one tablespoonful
of molasses or sugar, one handful of flour, and corn-meal enough to make a
stiff batter; lastly, stir in a small teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little warm
water.

This recipe is very nice made of rye flour.

CREAM FRITTERS.

One cup of cream; five ^®3— the whites only; two full cups prepared flour;
one saltEfpoonful of nutm^; a pinch of salt. Stir the whites into the cream in

turn with the flour, put in nutmeg and salt, beat all up hard for two minutes.
The batter should be rather thick. Fry in plenty of hot, sweet laixi, a spoonful
of batter for each fritter. Drain, and serve upon a hot, clean napkin. Eat
with jelly sauce. Pull, not cut, them open. Very nice.

CURRANT FRITTERS.

Two cupfuls dry, flne, bread-crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of prepared flour,
two cups of milk, one-half pound currants, washed and well-dried, five eggs
whipped very light, one-half cup powdered sugar, one tablespoonful butter, one
half teaspoonful mixed cinnamon and nutmeg. Boil the milk and pour over
the bread. Mix and put in the butter. Let it get cold. Beat in next the yolks
and sugar, the seasoning, flour, and stiff whites; finally, the currants dredged
whitely with flour. The batter should be thick. Drop in great sjxwnf uls into
the hot lard and fry. Drain them and send hot to table. Eat with a mixture
of wine and powdered sugar.

WHEAT FRITTERS.

Three eggs, one and a half cups of milk, three teaspoonfuls baking-powder,
salt, and flour enough to make quite stiff, thicker than batter-cakes. Drop into
hot lard and fry like doughnuts.

A good Sauce for the Above. — One cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter,
one teaspoonful of flour beaten together; half a cup boiling water; flavor with
extract lemon and boil until clear. Or serve with maple syrup.

APPLE FRITTERS.

Make a batter in the proportion of one cup sweet milk to two cups flour, a
heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, two eggs beaten separately, one table-
spoonful of sugar and a saltspoon of salt; heat the milk a little more than milk-

238 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

warm; add it slowly to the beaten yolks and sugar; then add flour and whites
of the eggs; stir all together and throw in thin slices of good sour apples, dip-
ping the batter up over them; drop into boiling hot lard in large spoonfuls with
pieces of apple in each, and fry to a Ught brown. Serve with maple syrup, or a
nice syrup made with clarified sugar.

Bananas, peaches, sliced oranges and other fruits can be used in the same
batter.

PINE-APPLE FRITTERS.

Make a batter as for apple fritters; then pare one large pine-apple, cut it in
slices a quarter of an inch thick, cut the slices in halves, dip them into the batter
and fry them, and serve them as above.

PEACH FRITTERS.

Peel the peaches, split each in two and take out the stones; dust a little
I)owdered sugar over them; dip each piece in the batter, and fr}*- in hot fat. A
sauce to be served with them may be made as follows: Put an ounce of butter
in a sauce-pan, and whisk it to a cream; add four ounces of sugar gradually.
Beat the yolks of two eggs; add to them a dash of nutmeg and a gill each of
cold water and rum; stir this into the luke-warm batter, and allow it to heat
gradually. Stir constantly until of a smooth, creamy consistency, and serve.
The batter is made as follows: Beat the yolks of three eggs; add to them a gill
of milk, or half of a cupful, a saltspoonful of salt, foiu: ounces of flour; mix. If
old flour is used, a little more milk may be found necessary.

GOLDEN-BALL FRITTERS.

Put into a stew-pan a pint of water, a piece of butter as large as an egg, and
a tablespoonful of sugar. When it boils, stir into it one pint of sifted flour,
stirring briskly and thoroughly. Bemove from the fire, and when nearly
cooled, beat into it six eggs, each one beaten separately, and added, one at a
time, beating the batter between each. Drop the stiff dough into boiling lard by
teaspoonfuls. Eat with syrup, or melted sugar and butter flavored.

Stirring the boiling lard around and around, so that it whirls when you
drop in the fritters, causes them to assume a round shape like balls.

CANNELONS, OR FRIED PUFFS.

Half a pound of puff paste; apricot, or any kind of preserve that may be
preferred; hot lard.

Cannelons, which are made of puff -paste, rolled very thin, with jam en.
dosed, and cut out in long, narrow roUs or puffs, make a very pretty and

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 239

elegant dish. Make some good puflf paste, roll it out very thin, and cut it into
pieces of an equal size, about two inches wide and eight inches long; place upon
each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg- and fold the
paste over ttuice; sUghfcly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape
in the frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a nice
brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are colored, that
the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the fii«, dish on a
d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve. These caimelons are very
delicious made with fresh, instead of preserved fruit, such as strawberries, rasp-
berries, or currants; they should be laid in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar
sprinkled over, and folded and fried in the same manner as stated above.

GERMAN FRITTERS.

Take slices of stale bread cut in roimds, or stale cake; fry themin hot lard,
like crullers, to a light brown. Dip each slice when fried in boiling milk, to
remove the grease; drain quickly, dust with powdered sugar, or spread with
preserves. Pile on a hot plate, and serve. Sweet wine sauce poured over them
is very nice.

HOMINY FRITTERS.

Take one pint of hot boiled hominy, two eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, and
a tablespoonful of flour; thin it a little with cold milk; when cold, add a tea-
spoonful of baking-powder, mix thoroughly, drop taUespoonfuls of it into hot
fat and fry to a delicate brown.

PARSNIP FRITTERS.

Take three or four good-sized parsnips. Boil them until tender. Maah and
season with a Uttle butter, a pinch of salt and a slight sprinkling of pepper.
Have ready a plate with some sifted flour on it. Drop a tablespoonful of the
parsnip in the flour and roll it about until well-coated and formed into a balL
When you have a sufficient number ready, drop them into boiling drippings or
lard, as you woxfld a fritter; fry a delicate brown, and serve hot. Do not put
them in a covered dish, for that would steam them and deprive them of their
crispness, which is one of their great charms.

These are also very good fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of lard
and butter mixed, turning them over so as to fry both sides brown.

GREEN-CORN FRITTERS.
One pint of grated, young and tender, green com, three eggs, two tablespoon-
fuls of milk or cream, one tablespoonful of melted butter, if milk is used, a tea-

340 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

spoonful of salt. Beat the eggs well, add the com by degrees, also the milk and
butter; thicken with just enough flour to hold them together, adding a tea-
spoonful of baking-powder to the flour. Have ready a kettle of hot lard, drop
the com from the spoon into the fat and fry a light brown. They are also nice
fried in butter and lard mixed, the same as fried ^gs.

CREAM SHORT-CAKE.

Sift one quart of fine white flour, rub into it three tablespoonfuls of cold
butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of white sugar. Add a beaten egg
to a cup of sour cream, turn it into the other ingredients, dissolve a teaspoonful
of soda in a spoonful of water, mix all together, handting as httle as possible;
roll lightly into two round sheets, place on pie-tins, and bake from twenty to
twenty-five minutes in a quick oven.

This crust is deUdous for fruit short-cakes.

STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE.

Make a rule of baking-powder biscuit, with the exception of a little more
shortening; divide the dough in half; lay one -half on the molding-board, (half
the dough makes one short-cake), divide this half again, and roll each piece large
enough to cover a biscuit-tin, or a large-sized pie-tin; spread soft butter over the
lower one, and place the other on top of that; proceed with the other lump of
dough the same, by cutting it in halves, and putting on another tin. Set them
in the oven; when sufiGLdently baked take them out, separate each one by run-
ning a large knife through where the cold soft butter was spread. Then butter
plentifully each crust, lay the bottom of each on earthem platters or dining-
plates; cover thickly with a quart of strawberries that have been previously pre-
pared with sugar, lay the top crusts on the fruit. If there is any juice left,
]x>ur it around the cake. This makes a deUdous short-cake:

Peaches, raspberries, blackberries, and huckleberries can be substituted for
strawberries. Always send to the table with a pitcher of sweet cream.

ORANGE SHORT-CAKE.

Peel two large oranges, chop them fine, remove the seeds, add half a peeled
lemon, and one cup of sugar. Spread between the layers of shiort-cake while
it is hot.

LEMON SHORT-CAKE.

Make a rich biscuit dough, same as above redpe. While baking, take a cup
and a quarter of water, a cup and a half of sugar, and two lemons, peel, juice
and pulp^ throwing away the tough part of the rind; boil this for some little

BREAn—BISCVITSy ROLLS, MUFFINS^ ETC. 241

time; then stir in three crackers rolled fine; spht the short-cakes while hot,
spread with butter, then with the mixtiu'e. To be eaten *warra.

HUCKLEBERRY SHORT-CAKE.
Two cupfuls of sugar, half a cupful of butter, one pint of sweet milk, one
tablespoonful of salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted into a
quart of flour, or enough to form a thick batter; add a quart of the huckleberries;
to be baked in a dripper; cut into squares for the table, and served hot with
butter. Blackberries may be used the same.

FRIED DINNER.ROLLS.

When making light raised bread, save out a piece of dough nearly the size
of a small loaf, roll it out on the board, spread a tablespoonful of melted butter
over it; dissolve a quarter of a teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of water,
and pour that also over it; work it all well into the dough, roll it out into a sheet
not quite half an inch thick. Cut it in strips three inches long and one inch wide.
Lay them on buttered tins, cover with a cloth, and set away in a cool place
until an hour before dinner-time; then set them by the fire where they will
become Ught. While they are rising, put into a frying-pan a tablespoonful of
cold butter and one of lard; when it boils clear and is Ao^, lay as many of the
rolls in as will fry nicely. As soon as they brown on one side, turn them over
and brown the other; then turn them on the edges and brown the sides. Add
fresh grease as is needed. Eat them warm in place of bread. Nice with warm
meat dinner.

NEWPORT BREAKFAST-CAKES.

Take one quart of dough from the bread, at an early hour in the mormng;
break three eggs, separating yolks and whites, both to be whipped to a light
froth; mix them into the dough, and gradually add two tablespoonfuls of melted
butter, one of sugar, one teaspoonful of soda, and enough warm milk with it
tmtil it is a batter the consistency of buckwheat cakes; beat it well, and let it
rise until breakfast-time. Have the griddle hot and nicely greased, pour on the
batter in small round cakes, and bake a hght brown, the same as any griddle-
cake.

PUFF BALLS.

A piece of butter as large as an egg, stin-ed until. soft; add three well-beaten
eggs, a pinch of salt, and half a teacupful of sour cream. Stir well together,
then add enough flour to make a very thick batter. Drop a spoonful of this
into boiling water. Cook until the puffs rise to the surface. Dish them hot

2A2 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

with melted butter turned over them. Nice accompaniment to a meat dinner,
as a side-dish — similar to plain maccaroni.

BREAKFAST PUFFS.
Two cups of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonf ul of salt, one

Qgg, and flour enough to roll out like biscuit dough. Cut into narrow strips, an
inch wide, and three inches long; fry brown in hot lard, like doughnuts. Serve
hot; excellent with coffee. Or, fry in a spider with an ounce each of lard and
butter, turning and browning all four of the sides.

ENGLISH CRUMPETS.

One quart of warm milk, half a cup of yeast, one teaspoonful of salt, flour
enough to make a stiff batter; when hght, add half a cupful of melted butter, a
teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little water^ and a very little more flour; let
it stand twenty minutes or until Ught. Grease some muffin rings, place them
on a hot griddle, and fill them half full of the batter; when done on one side,
turn and bake the other side. Butter them while hot; pile one on another,
and serve immediately.

PLAIN CRUMPETS.

Mix together thoroughly, whiledry, one quart of sifted flour, loosely measurod,
two heaping teaspoonfuls baking-powder, and a little salt; then add two table-
spoonfuls of melted butter, and sweet milk enough to make a thin dough. Bake
quickly in mufan-rings or patty-pans.

PREPARED BREAD-CRUMBS.

Take pieces of stale bread, break them in small bits, put them on a baking-
pan and place them in a moderate oven, watching closely that they do not
scorch; then take them while hot and crisp and roll them, crushing them. Sift
them, using the fine crumbs for breading cutlets, flsh, croquettes, etc. The
coarse ones may be used for puddings, pan-cakes, etc.

CRACKERS.

Sift into a pint of flour a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, four table-
spoonfuls of melted butter, half a teaspoonful salt and the white of an egg
beaten, and one cup of milk; mix it with more flour, enough to make a very
stiff dough, as stiff as can be rolled out; pounded and kneaded a long time.

Boll very thin, like pie-crust, and cut out either round or square. Bake a light
brown.

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 243

Stale crackers are made crisp and better by placing them in the oven a few
moments before they are needed for the table.

FRENCH CRACKERS.

Six Q^s, twelv^e tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, six tablespoonfuls of butter,
half a teaspoonful of soda; mold with flom*, pounding and working half an
hour; roll it thin. Bake with rather quick fire.

CORN-MEAL MUSH OR HASTY PUDDING.

Put two quarts of water into a clean dinner-pot or stew-pan, cover it, and
let it become boiling hot over the fire; then add a tablespoonful of salt, take off
the hght scum from the top, have sweet, fresh yeUow or white corn-meal; take
a handful of the meal with the left hand, and a pudding-stick in the right, then
with the stick, stir the water around, and by degrees let fall the meal; when
one handful is exhausted, refill it; continue to stir and add meal until it is as
thick as you can stir easily, or imtil the stick wiU stand in it; stir it a while
longer; let the fire be gentle; when it is sufficiently cooked, which will be in half
anhour, itwiUbubbleor puff up; turn it into a deep basin. This is eaten cold or
hot, with milk or with butter, and syrup or sugar, or with meat and gravy,
the same as potatoes or rice.

FRIED MUSH.

Make it like the above recipe, turn it into bread-tins, and when cold slice it,
dip each piece in fiour and fry it in lard and butter mixed in the frying-pan,
turning to brown well both sides. Must be served hot.

GRAHAM MUSH.

Sift Graham meal slowly into boiling salted water, stirring briskly until thick
as can be stirred with one hand; serve with milk or cream and sugar, or butter
and syrup. It will be improved by removing from the kettle to a pan, as soon
as thoroughly mixed, and steaming three or four hours. It may also be eaten
cold, or sliced and. fried, like corn-meal mush.

OATMEAL.

Soak one cup of oatmeal in a quart of water over night, boil half an hotur in
the morning, salted to taste. It is better to cook it in a dish set into a dish of
boiling water.

RICE CROQUETTES.

Boil for thirty minutes one cup of well- washed rice, in a pint of milk; whip
into the hot rice the following ingredients: Two ounces of butter, two ounces

244 BREAD— BISCUITS^ ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC.

of sugar, some salt^ and when slightly cool add the yolks of two eggs well
beaten; if too stiff pour in a little more milk; when cold, roll into small balls
and dip in beaten eggs, roll in fine cracker or bread-crumbs, and fry same as
doughnuts. Or they may be fried in the frying-pan, with a tablespoonful each
of butter and lard mixed, turning and frying both sides brown. Senre very hot.

HOMINY

This form of cereal is very little known and consequently little appreciated in
most Northern households. ^^ Big hominy" and '^little hominy," as they are
called in the South, are staple dishes there and generally take the place of oat-
meal, which is apt to be too heating for the climate. The former is called
^^ samp " here. It must be boiled for at least eight hours to be properly cooked,
and may then be kept on hand for two or three days and warmed over, made
into croquettes or balls, or fried in cakes. The fine hominy takes two or three
hours for proper cooking, and should be cooked in a dish set into another of
boiling water, and kept steadily boiling until thoroughly soft.

HOMINY CROQUETTES.

To a cupful of cold boiled hominy, add a teaspoonful of melted butter, and
stir it well, adding by degrees a cupful otmilk, till all is made into a soft, hght
paste; add a teaspoonful of white sugar, a pinch of salt, and one well-beaten
egg. Boll it into oval baUs with floured hands, dipped in beaten egg, then rolled
in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot lard.

The hominy is best boiled the day or morning before using.

BOILED RICE.

Take half or quarter of a pound of the best quality of rice; wash it in a
strainer, and put it in a sauce-pan, with a quart of dean water and a pinch of
salt; let it boil slowly tiU the water is aU evaporated — see that it does not bum
— then pour in a teacupful of new milk; stir carefully from the bottom of the
sauce-pan, so that the upper grain may go under, but do not smash it; dose
the lid on your sauce-pan carefully down, and set it on a cooler part of the fire,
where it will not boil; as soon as it has absorbed the added milk, serve it up
with fresh new milk, adding fruit and sugar for those who like them.

Another nice way to cook rice is to take one teacupful of rice and one
quart of milk, place in a steamer, and steam from two to three hours; when
nearly done, stir in a piece of butter as large as the yolk of an egg, and a pinch
of salt. You can use sugar if you like. The difference in the time of cooking
depends on your rice — ^the older the rice, the longer time it takes to cook. *

BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 245

SAMP, OR HULLED CORN.

An old-fashioned way of preparing hulled com was to put a peck of old^
dry, ripe com into a pot filled with water, and with it a bag of hard-wood ashes,
say a quart. After soaking awhile it was boiled untU the skins or hulls came
off easily. The com was then washed in cold water to get rid of the taste of
potash, and then boiled until the kernels were soft. Another way was to take
the lye from the leaches where potash was made, dilute it, and boil the com
in this until the skin or hull came off. It makes adelicious dish, eaten with milk
or cream.

CKACKED WHEAT.

Soak the wheat over night in cold water, about a quart of water to a cup of
wheat; cook it as directed for oatmeal; should be thoroughly done. Eaten with
sugar and cream.

OAT FLAKES.

This healthful oat preparation may be procm^ from the leading grocers,
and is prepared as follows: Put into a double sauce-pan or porcelain-lined pan
a quart of boiling water, add a saltspoonful of salt, and when it is boiling, add,
or rather stir in gradually, three ounces of flakes. Keep stirring to prevent
burning. Let it boil from fifteen to twenty minutes, and serve with cream
and sugar.

Ordinary oatmeal requires two hours' steady cooking to make it palatable and
digestible. Wheaten grits and hominy, one hour, but a half hour longer cooking
will not injure them, and makes them easier of digestion. Never be afraid of
cooking cereals or preparations from cereals too long, no matter what the directions
on the package may be.

STEAMED OATMEAL.

To one teacupful oatmeal add a quart of cold water, a teaspoonful of salt;
put in a steamer over a kettle of cold water, gradually heat and steam an hour
and a half after it begins to cook.

HOMINY.

Hominy is a preparation of Indian com, broken or ground, either large or
small, and is an excellent breakfast dish in winter or summer. Wash the
hominy thoroughly in one or two waters, then cover it with twice its depth of
cold water, and let it come to a boil slowly. If it be the large hominy, simmer
six hours; if the smaU hominy, simmer two hours. When the water evaporates,
add hot water; when done, it may be eaten with cream, or allowed to become
cold and warmed up in the frying-pan, using a little butter to prevent burning.

246 BREAD— TOAST.

XCoast

Toast should be made of stale bread, or at least of bread that has been baked
a day. Cut smoothly in slices, not more than half an inch thick; if the crust is
baked very hard» trim the edges and brown very evenly, but if it happens to
bum, that should be scraped oflf. Toast that is to be served with anything
turned over it, should have the slices first dipped quickly in a dish of hot water
turned from the boiling tea-kettle, with a little salt thrown in. Cold biscuits
cut in halves, and the under crust sliced off, then browned evenly on both sides,
make equally as good toast. The following preparations of toast are almost all
of them very nice dishes, served with a family breakfast.

MILK TOAST.
Put over the fire a quart of milk, put into it a tablespoonful of cold butter,
stir a heaping teaspoonful of flour into half a gill of milk; as soon as the milk
on the fire boils, stir in the fiour, add a teaspoonful of salt; let all boil up once,
remove from the fire, and dip in this slices of toasted bread. When all are
used up, pour what is left of the scalded milk over the toast. Cover, and send
to the table hot.

CREAM TOAST.

Heat a pint of milk to boiling, and add a piece of butter the size of an egg;
stir a tablespoonful of flour smoothly into a cup of rich cream, and add some of
the boiling milk to this; heat it gradually and prevent the flour from lumping;
then stir into the boiling milk, and let it cook a few moments; salt to taste.
After taking from the fire stir in a beaten egg; strain the mixture on to toast
lightly buttered.

AMERICAN TOAST.

To one egg thoroughly beaten, put one cup of sweet nnillrj and a Uttle saltv

Shoe li^t bread and dip into the mixture, allowing each slice to absorb some of
the milk; then brown on a hot, buttered griddle or thick-bottom frying-pan;
spread with butter, and serve hot.

NUNS' TOAST.

Cut four or five hard-boiled eggs into shoes. Put a piece of butter half the

size of an egg into a sauce-pan, and when it begins to bubble add a finely

chopped onion. Let the onion cook a Uttle without taking color, then stir in a

teaspoonful of fiour. Add a cupful of milk, and stir until it becomes smooth;

BREAD— TOAST. 247

then put in the slices of eggs and let them get hot. Pour over neatly trimmed
slices of hot buttered toast. The sauce must be seasoned to taste with pepper
and salt.

CHEESE TOAST. No. 1.

Toast thin slices of bread an even, crisp brown. Place on a warm plate,
allowing one small slice to each person, and pour on enough melted cheese to
cover them. Bich new cheese is best. Serve while warm. Many prefer a little
prepared mustard spread over the toast before putting on the cheese.

CHEESE TOAST. No. 2.

Put half an ounce of butter in a fiying-pan; when hot, add gradually four
ounces of mild American cheese. Whisk it thoroughly imtil melted. Beat
together half a pint of cream and two eggs; whisk into the cheese, add a little
salt, pour over the crisp toast, and serve.

The two above recipes are usually called " Welsh Barebit.

OYSTER TOAST.

Select tiie large ones, used for frying, and first dip them in beaten egg, then
in either cracker or bread-crumbs, and cook upon a fine wire gridiron, over a
quick fire. Toast should be made ready in advance, and a rich cream sauce
■»x)ured over the whole. After pouring on the sauce, finely cut celery strewn
over the top adds to their delicacy.

Or, wash oysters in the shell, and put them on hot coals, or upon the top of
a hot stove, or bake them in a hot oven; open the shells with an oyster-knife,
taking care to lose none of the liquor. Dip the toast into hot, salted water
quickly, and turn out the oyster and Uquor over the toast; season with salt and
pepper, and a teaspoonful of melted butter over each.

Oysters steamed in the shell are equally as good.

MUSHROOMS ON TOAST.

Peel a quai*t of mushrooms, and cut off a little of the root end. Melt an
ounce of butter in the frying pan, and fry in it half a pound of raw minced steak;
add two saltspoonfuls of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a gill of hot water; fry
until the juices are extracted from the meat; tilt the pan and squeeze the meat
with the back of the spoon imtil there is nothing left but dry meat, then remove
it; add the mushrooms to the liquid, and if there is not enough of it, add more
butter; toss them about a moment and poiu* out on hot toast.

Some add a little sherry to the dish before removing from the fire.

?48 BREAD— TOAST.

TOMATO TOAST.
Pare and stew a quart of ripe tomatoes until smooth. Season with salt^
pepper and a tablespoonful of butter. When done^ add one cup sweet cream
and a little flour. Let it scald but not boil; remove at once. Pour over slices
of dipped toast, well-buttered.

EGGS ON TOAST.

Various preparations of eggs can be served on toast, first dipping slices of
well-toasted bread quickly in hot salted water, then turning over them scrambled,
poached or creamed ^ggs, all found in the ledpes among ^^ Biggs."

BAKED EGGS ON TOAST.

Toast six slices of stale bread, dip them in hot salted water and butter them
lightly. After arranging them on a platter or deep plate, break enough eggs to
cover them, breaking one at a time, and sUp over the toast so that they do not
break; sprinkle over them salt and pepper, and turn over all some kind of thick-
ened gravy — either chicken or lamb, cream or a cream sauce made the same as
^^ White Sauce "; turn this over the toast and eggs, and bake in a hot oven untQ
the eggs are set, or about five minutes. Serve at once.

HAM TOAST.

Take a quarter of a pound of either boiled or fried ham, chop it fine, mix it
with the yolks of two eggs, weU-beaten, a tablespoonful of butter, and enough
cream or rich milk to make it soft, a dash of pepper. Stir it over the fire until
it thickens. Dip the toast for an instant in hot, salted water; spread over some
melted butter, then turn over the ham mixture. Serve hot.

REED BIRDS ON TOAST.

, Remove the feathers and legs of a dozen reed birds, split them down the back,
remove the entrails, and place them on a double broiler; brush a little melted
butter over them, and broil the inner side thoroughly first; then lightly broil
the other side. Melt one-quarter of a pound of butter, season it nicely with salt
«nd pepper, dip the birds in it, and arrange them nicely on slices of toast.

MINCED FOWLS ON TOAST.

Remove from the bones all the meat of either cold roast or boiled fowls.
Clean it from the skin, and keep covered from the air, until ready for use. Boil
the bones and skin with three-fourths of a pint of water until reduced quite
half. Strain the gravy and let it cool. Next, having skimmed off the fat, put

BREAD— TOAST. 249

it into a clean sauce-pan with half a cup of cream, three tablespoonfuls of butter*
well-mixed with a tablespoonful of flour. Keep these stirred imtil they boil.
Then put in the fowl finely minced, with three hard-boiled eggs, chopped, and
sufficient salt and pepper to season. Shake the mince over the fire imtil just
ready to serve. Dish it over hot toast and serve.

HASHED BEEF ON TOAST.

Chop a quantity of cold roast beef rather fine, and season it well with pepper
and salt. For each pint of meat add a level tablespoof ul of fiour. Stir well, and
add a small teacupful of soup-stock or water. Put the mixtiu^ into a small
stew-pan, and, after covering it, simmer for twenty minutes. Meanwhile,
toast half a dozen slices of bread nicely, and at the end of the twenty minutes
spread the meat upon them. Serve at once on a hot dish. In case water be
used instead of soup-stock, add a tablespoonful of butter just before spreading the
beef upon the toast. Any kind of cold meat may be prepared in a similar manner.

— Maria Parha.
VEAL HASH ON TOAST.

Take a teacupful of boiling water in a sauce-i)an, stir in an even teaspoonful
of flour, wet in a tablespoonful of cold water, and let it boil five minutes; add
one-half teaspoonful of black pepper, as much salt, and two tablespoonfuls of
butter, and let it keep hot, but not boil. Chop the veal fine, and mix with it
half as much stale bread-crumbs. Put it in a pan, and pour the gravy over it,
then let it simmer ten minutes. Serve this on buttered toast.

CODFISH ON TOAST. (Cuban Style.)

Take a teacupful of freshened codfish, picked up fine. Fry a sUced onion
in a tablespoonful of butter; when it has turned a Ught brown, put in the fish
with water enough to cover it; add half a can of tomatoes, or half a dozen of
fresh ones. Cook all nearly an hour, seasoning with a httle pepper. Serve
on shoes of dipped toast, hot. Very fine.

Plain creamed codfish is very nice turned over dipped toast.

HALIBUT ON TOAST.

Put into boiling, salted water, one pound of fresh halibut; cook slowly for
fifteen minutes, or until done; remove from the water and chop it fine; then add
half a cup of melted butter, and eight eggs weU beaten. Season with salt and
pepper.

Place over the fire a thick-bottomed frying-pan containing a tablespoonful of
cold butter; when it begins to melt, tip the pan so as to grease the sides; then

250 BREAD— TOAST.

pot in the fish and eggs and stir one way untQ the eggfi aie cooked, bat not foe
haid. Tam aver toast, dipped in hot, salted water.

CHICKEN HASH WITH RICE TOAST.

BoQ a cop of rice the night beforp; put it into a square, narrow bread-pan,
set it in the ice-box. Next morning, cut it into half -inch slices, rub over each
slice a little warm butter, and toast them on a broiler to a delicate brown. Ar-
range the toast on a warm platter and turn over the whole a chicken hash, made
from the remains of cold fowl, the meat picked from the bones, chopped fine,
put into the frying-pan, with butter, anda little waterto moisten it, addingpep-
per and salt. Heat hot aU through. Serve immediately.

APPLE TOAST.

Cut SIX apples into quarters, take the core out, peel and cut them in
slices; put in the sauce-pan an ounce of butter, then throw over the ^ples
about two ounces of white powdered sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water;
put the sauce-pan on the fire, let it stew quickly, toss them up, or stir with a
spoon; a few minutes will do them. When tender, cut two or three slices of
bread half an inch thick; put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter, put on the
fire; when the butter is melted, put in your bread, which fry of a nice yellowish
color; when nice and crisp, take them out, place them on a dish, a little white
sugar over, the apples about an inch thick. Serve hot.

SUGGESTIONS IN REGARD TO CAKE MAKING.

Use none but the best materials, and all the ingredients should be properl7
prepared before commeaciiig to mix any of them. 'Sigf^ beat up much hghter
and sooner by being placed in a cold place some time before usiog them; a small
pinch of soda sometimes has the same effect. Flour should always be sifted
hefore using it. Cream of tartar or baking-powder should be thoroughly mixed
with the flour; butter be placed where it will become moderately soft, but not
melted in tiie least, or the cake will be sodden and heavy. Sugar should be
rolled and sifted; spices ground or pounded; raisins or any other fruit boked
orer and prepared; currants, especially, should be nicely washed, picked, dried
in a doth, and then carefully examined, that no pieces of grit or stone may be
left amongst them. They should then be laid on a dish before the fire to become
thoroughly dry; as, if added damp to the other ingredients, cakes will be liable
to be heavy.

Ej^ should be well-beaten, the whites and yolks separately, the yolks to a
thick cream, the whites until they are a stiff froth. Always stir the butter and
sugar to a cream, then add the beaten yolks, then the milk, the flavoring, then
the beaten whites, and lastly the flour. If fruit is to be used, measure and
dredge with a little sifted flour, stir in gradually and thoroughly.

Four all in well-buttered cake-pans. While the cake is baking, care should
be taken that no cold air enters the oven, only when necessary to see that the
cake is baking properly; the oven should be an even^ moderate heat, not too
cold or too hot; much depends on this for success.

Cake is often spoiled for being looked at too often when first put into the
oven. The heat should be tested before the cake is put in, which can be done
by throwing on the fioor of the oven a tablespoonf ul of new flour. If the flour
takes fire, or assumes a dark-brown color, the temperature is too high, and the

252 CAKES.

oven must be allowed to cool; if the flour remams white after the lapse of a few
seconds, the temperature is too low. When the oven is of the proper tempera-
ture, the flour will slightly brown and look slightly scorched.

Another good way to test the heat, is to drop a few spoonfuls of the cake,
batter on a small piece of buttered letter-paper, and place it in the oven during
the fiTiiflliiTig of the cake, so that the piece wiU be baked before putting in the
whole cake ; if the little drop of cake-batter bakes evenly without burning
around the edge, it wiU be safe to put the whole cake in the oven. Then again
if the oven seems too hot, fold a thick brown paper double, and lay on the
bottom of the oven; then after the cake has risen, put a thick brown paper over
the top, or butter well a thick white paper and lay carefully over the top.

If, after the cake is put in, it seems to bake too fast, put a brown paper
loosely over the top of the pan, care being taken that it does not touch the cake,
and do not open the door for five minutes at least; the cake should then be
quickly examined, and the door shut* carefully, or the rush of cold air will cause
it to fall. Setting a amaU dish of hot water in the oven, wiU also prevent the
cake from scorching.

To ascertain when the cake is done, run a broom straw into the middle of it;
if it comes out dean and smooth, the cake will do to take out.

Where the recipe calls for baking powder, and you have none, you can use
cream tartar and soda in proportion to one level teaspoonful of soda, two
heaping teaspoonfuls of cream tartar.

When sour milk is called for in the redpe, use only soda. Cakes made with
molasses bum much more easily than those made with sugar.

Never stir cake after the butter and sugar is creamed, but beat it down from
the bottom, up, and over; this laps air into the cake- batter, and produces little
air cells^ which causes the dough to puff and swell when it comes in contact
with the heat while cookrog.

When making most cakes, especially sponge cake, the flour should be
added by degrees, stirred very slowly and lightly, for if stirred hard and fast it
will make it porous and tough.

CaiMs should be kept in tight tin cake-cans, or earthem jars, in a cool, dry
place.

Cookies, jumbles, ginger-snaps, etc., require a quick oven; if they become
moist or soft by keeping, put again into the oven a few minutes.

To remove a cake from a tin after it is baked, so that it will not crack, break
or fall, first butter the tin well all around the sides and bottom; then cut a
piece of letter-paper to exactly fit the tin, butter that on both sides, placing

CAKES. 253

it smoothly on the bottom and sides of the tin. When the cake is baked, let it
remain in the tin until it is cold\ then set it in the oven a minute, or just long
enough to warm the tin through. Remove it from the oven; turn it upside
down on your hand, tap the edge of the tin on the table and it will slip out with
ease, leaving it whole.

If a cake-pan is too shallow for holding the quantity of cake to be baked, for
fear of its being so light as to rise above the pan, that can be remedied by
thoroughly greasing a piece of thick glazed letter-paper with soft butter. Place
or fit it around the sides of the buttered tin, allowing it to reach an inch or
more above the top. If the oven heat is moderate, the butter will preserve the
paper from burning.

FROSTING OR ICING.

In the first place, the eggs should be cold, and the platter on which they are
to be beaten also cold. Allow, for the white of one egg, one small teacupful
of powdered sugar. Break the eggs smd throw a small handful of the sugar on
them as soon as you begin beating; keep adding it at intervals imtil it is all used
up. The ^ggs must not be beaten imtil the sugar has been added in this way,
which gives a smooth, tender frosting, and one that will dry much sooner than
the old way.

Spread with a broad knife evenly over the cake, and if it seems too thin, beat
in a little more sugar. Cover the cake with two coats, the second after the first
has become dry, or nearly so. If the idng gets too dry or stiff before the last
coat is needed, it can be thinned sufficiently with a little water, enough to make
it work smoothly.

A little lemon-juice, or half a teaspoonful of tartaric add, added to the frost-
ing while being beaten, makes it white and more frothy.

The flavors mostly used are lemon, vaniUa, almond, rose, chocolate, and
orange. If you wish to ornament with figures or fiowers, make up rather more
icing, keep about one-third out imtil that on the cake is dried; then, with a clean^
glass syringe, apply it in such forms as you desire and dry as before; what you
keep out to ornament with may be tinted pink with cochineal, blue with indigo^
yellow with saffron or the grated rind of an orange strained through a cloth^
green with spinach juice, and brown with chocolate, purple with cochineal and
indigo. Strawberry, or currant and cranberry juices color a deKcate pink.

Set the cake in a cool oven with the door open, to dry, or in a draught in an
open window.

254 CAKES.

ALMOND FROSTING.
The whites of three eggs, beaten up with three cups of fine, white sugar.
Blanch a pound of sweet aknonds, pound them in a mortar with a little sugar,
until a fine paste, then add the whites of eggs, sugar and vanilla extract. Pound
a few minutes to thoroughly mix. Cover the cake with a very thick coating of
this, set in a cool oven to dry, afterwards cover with a plain icing.

CHOCOLATE FROSTING.

The whites of four eggs, three cups of powdered sugar, and nearly a cup of
grated chocolate. Beat the whites a very little, they must not become white;
stir in the chocolate, then put in the sugar gradually, beating to mix it well.

PLAIN CHOCOLATE ICING.

Put into a shallow pan four tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate, and place it
where it will melt gradually, but not scorch; when melted, stir in three table-
spoonfuls of milk or cream, and one of water; mix all well together, and add
one scant teacupful of sugar; boil about five minutes, and while hot, and when
the cakes are nearly cold, spread some evenly over the surface of one of the
cakes; put a second one on top, alternating the mixture and cakes; then cover
top and sides, and set in a warm oven to harden. All who have tried recipe
after recipe, vainly hoping to find one where the chocolate sticks to the cake
and not to the fingers, will appreciate the above. In making those most palat-
able of cakes, ^^ Chocolate Eclairs," the recipe just given will be found very
satisfactory.

TUTTI FRUTTI ICING.
Mix with boiled icing one ounce each of chopped dtron, candied cherries,
seedless raisins, candied pineapple, and blanched almonds.

SUGAR ICING.

To one pound of extra refined sugar, add one ounce of fine white starch;
pound finely together, and then sift them through gauze; then beat the whites
of three eggs to a froth. The secret of success is to beat the eggs long enough,
and always one way; add the powdered sugar by degrees, or it will spoil the
froth of the eggs. When all the sugar is stirred in, continue the whipping for
half an hour long3r, adding more sugar if the ice is too thin. Take a little
of the Idng and lay it aside for ornamenting afterward. When the cake comes
out of the oven, spread the sugar icing smoothly over it with a knife, and dry

CAKES. 255

it at ouce in a cool oven. For ornamenting the cake^ the icing may be tinged
any color preferred. For pink, use a few drops of cochineal; for yellow a pinch
of saffron, dissolved; for green, the juice of some chopped spinach. Whichever
is chosen, let the coloring be first mixed with a httle colorless spirit, and then
stirred into the white icing until the tint is deep enough. To ornament the cake
with it, make a cone of stiff writing paper, and squeeze the colored icing through
it, so as to form leaves, beading or letters, as the case may be. It requires nicety
and care to do it with success.

BOILED FROSTING.

To one pound of finest pulverised sugar, add three wine-glassfuls of clear
water. Let it stand until it dissolves; then boil it until it is perfectly clear and
threads from the spoon. Beat well the whites of four ^gs. Pour the sugar into
the dish with the eggs, but do not mix them imtil the syrup is luke-warm; then
beat aU well together for one half hour.

Season to yovtr taste with vanilla, rose-water, or lemon-juice. The first coat-
ing may be put on the cake as soon as it is well mixed. Rub the cake with a
little flour before you apply the icing. While the first coat is drying, continue
to beat the remainder; you will not have to wait long if the cake is set in a warm
place near the fire. This is said to be a most excellent recipe for icing.

FROSTING WITHOUT EGGS.

An excellent frosting may be made without eggs or gelatine, which wiU keep
longer, and cut more easily, causing no breakage or crumbling, and withal is
very economical.

Take one cup of granulated sugar; dampen it with one-fourth of a cup of
milk, or five tablespoonfuls; place it on the fire in a suitable dish, and stir it
until it boils; then let it boil for five minutes without stirring; remove it from
the fire and set the dish in another of cold water; add flavoring. While it is
cooling, stir or beat it constantly, and it will become a thick, creamy frosting.

GELATINE FROSTING.
Soak one teaspoonf ul of gelatine in one tablespoonf ul of cold water half an
hour, dissolve in two tablespoonfuls of hot water; add one cup of powdered sugar
and stir until smooth.

GOLDEN FROSTING.

A very dehcious and handsome frosting can be made by using the yolks oE
eggs instead of the whites. Proceed exactly as for ordinary frosting. It will
harden just as nicely as that does. This is })articularly good for orange cake^

256 CAKES.

harmoniziiig with the oolor of the cake in a way to please those who love rioh
coloring.

BREAD OR RAISED CAKE.
Twocupfuls of raised dough; beat into it two-thirds of acup of butter and two
cups of sugar creamed together, three ^ggs, well beaten, one even teaspoonful of
soda, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of milk, half a nutmeg grated, one table-
spoonful of cinnamon, a teaspoonful of doves, one cupt)f raisios. Mix all well
together, put in the beaten whites of e^s and raisins last; beat all hard for
several minutes; put in buttered pans, and let it stand half an hour to rise again
before baking. Bake in a moderate oven. Half a glass of brandy is an im-
provement, if you have it convenient.

FRUIT CAKE. (Superior.)
Three pounds dry flour, one pound sweet butter, one poimd sugar, three
poimds stoned raisins, two pounds currants, three-quarters of a pound sweet
almonds blanched, one pound citron, twelve eggs, one tablespoonful allspice,
one teaspoonful cloves, two tablespoonfuls cinnamon, two nutmegs, one wine-
glass of wine, one wine-glass of brandy, one coffee-cupful molasses with the
spices in it; steep this gently twenty or thirty minutes, not boiling hot; beat the
^gs very lightly; put the fruit in last, stirring it gradually, also a teaspoonful
of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of water; the fruit should be well floured; if
necessary add flour after the fruit is in; butter a sheet of paper and lay it in the
pan. Lay in some slices of citron, then a layer of the mixture, then of citron
again, etc., till the pan is nearly fuH Bake three or font hours, according to
the thickness of the loaves, in a tolerably hot oven, and with steady heat. Let
it cool in the oven gradually. Ice when cold. It improves this cake very much
to add three teaspoonf uls of baking-powder to the flour. A flne wedding-cake
recipe.

FRUIT CAKE BY MEASURE. (Excellent)

Two scant teacupfuls of butter, three cupfuls of dark-brown sugar, six ^SB^
whites and yolks beaten separately, one pound of raisins, seeded, one of cur-
rants, washed and dried, and half a pound of citron cut in thin strips; also half
a cupful of cooking molasses, and half a cupful of sour milk. Stir the butter and
sugar to a cream, add to that half a grated nutmeg, one tablespoonful of ground
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of mace, add the molasses
and sour milk. Stir all well; then put in the beaten yolks of egg, a wine-glass
of brandy; stir again all thoroughly, and then add fotu* cupfuls of sifted flour,
alternately with the beaten whites of ^gg. Now dissolve a level teaspoonful <tf

CAKES.

257

soda, and stir in thoroughly. Mix the fruit together, and stir into it two heaping
tablespoonfuls of flour; then stir it in the cake. Butter two common-sized bak-
ing-tins carefully, line them with letter-paper well buttered, and bake in a mod-
erate oven two hours. After it is baked, let it cool in the pan. Afterward put
it into a tight can, or let it remain in the pans and cover tighUy. Best recipe
ofaU.

—Mrs, S. a. Oamp, Grand Rapids, Mich.

WHITE FRUIT CAKE.
One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of sweet milk, two and one-
half cups of flour, the whites of seven ^gs, two even teaspoonfuls of baking-
powder, one pound each of seeded raisins, figs, and blanched almonds, and one-
quarter of a pound of citron, all chopped fine. Mix all thoroughly before adding
the fruit; add a teaspoonful of lemon extract. Put baking-powder in the flour,
and mix it well before adding it to the other ingredients. Sift a littie flour over
the fruit before stirring it in. Bake slowly two hours and try with a splint to
see when it is done. A cup of grated cocoanut is a nice addition to this cake.

MOLASSES FRUIT CAKE.

One teacupful of butter, one teacupful of brown sugar, worked well together;
next two teacupfuls of cooking molasses, one cupful of milk with a teaspoonful
of soda dissolved in it; one tablespoonful of ginger, one tablespoonful of cinnamon,
and one teaspoonful of cloves; a Uttle grated nutmeg. Now add four eggs well-
beaten, and five cups of sifted flour, or enough to make a stiff batter. Flour a
cup of raisins, and one of currants; add last. Bake in a very moderate oven,
one hour. If well covered will keep six months.

SPONGE CAKE.

Separate the whites and yolks of six eggs. Beat the yolks to a cream, to
which add two teacupfuls of powdered sugar, beating again from five to ten
minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of milk or water, a pinch of salt, and
flavoring. Now add part of the beaten whites; then two cups of flour in which
you have sifted two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; mix gradually into the
above ingredients, stirring slowly and lightly, only enough to mix them well;
lastiy add the remainder of the whites of the eggs. line the tins with buttered
paper and fill two-thirds full.

WHITE SPONGE CAKE.

Whites of five eggs, one cup flour, one cup sugar, one teaspoonful baking-
powder; flavor with vanilla. Bake in a quick oven«

258 CAKES.

ALMOND SPONGE CAKE.

The addition of almonds makes this cake very superior to the usual sponge-
cake. Sift one pint of fine flour; blanch in scalding water two ounces of sweet
and two ounces of bitter ahnonds, renewing the hot water when expedient; when
the skins are all off wash the ahnonds in cold water (mixing the sweet and
bitter), and wipe them dry; pound them to a fine, smooth paste (one at a time),
adding, as you proceed, water or white of egg to prevent their boihng. Set them
in a cool place; beat ten eggs, the whites and yolks separately, till very smooth
and thick, and then beat into them gradually two cups powdered sugar in turn
with the pounded almonds; lastly add the floiur, stirring it round slowly and
lightly on the surface of the mixture, as in common sponge-cake; have ready
buttered a deep square pan; put the mixture carefully into it, set into the oven,
and bake till thoroughly done and risen very high; when cool, cover it with plain
white idng flavored with rose-water or with almond icing. With sweet
almonds always use a small portion of bitter; without them, s^^;66^ almonds have
little or no taste, though they add to the richness of the cake.

Use two heaping teaspoonf uls of baking-powder in the flour.

OLD-FASHIONED SPONGE CAKE.

Two cups of sifted white sugar, two cups of flour measured before sifting,
ten eggs. Stir the yolks and sugar together until perfectly light; add a pinch of
salt; beat the whites of the e^s to a very stiff froth, and add them with the
flour, after beatiag together lightly; flavor with lemon. Bake in a moderate
oven about forty-five minutes. Baking-powder is an improvement to this cake,
using two large teaspoonfuls.

LEMON SPONGE CAKE.

Into one level cup of flour put a level teaspoonf ul of baking-powder and sift
it. Grate off the yellow rind of a lemon. Separate the whites from the yolks
of four eggs. Measure a scant cup of white granulated sugar and beat it to a
cream with the yolks, then add the grated rind and a tablespoonf ul of the juice
of the lemon. Stir together imtil thick and creamy; now beat the whites to a
stiff froth; then quickly and lightly mix tutthout beating a third of the flour
with the yolks; then a third of the whites; then more flour and whites imtil aU
are used. The mode of mixing must be very light, rather cutting down through
the cake-batter than beating it; beating the eggs makes them light, but beating
the batter makes the cake tough. Bake immediately until a straw run into it
can be withdrawn clean.

This recipe is especially nice for Charlotte Russe, being so light and poroua

CAKES. 259

PLAIN SPONGE CAKE.

Beat the yolks of four eggs together with two cups of fine powdered sugar.
Stir in gradually one cup of sifted flour, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a
stiff froth, then a cup of sifted flour in which two teaspoonf uls of baking-powder
have been stirred, and lastly, a scant teacupf ul of boiling water, stirred in a little
at a time. Flavor, add salt, and, however thin the mixture may seem, do not
add any more flour. Bake in shallow tins.

BRIDE'S CAKE.

Cream together one scant cup of butter and three cups of sugar, add one cup
of milk, then the beaten whites of twelve eggs; sift three teaspoonf uls of baking-
powder into one cup of corn-starch mixed with three cups of sifted flour, and
beat in gradually with the rest; flavor to taste. Beat all thoroughly, then put
in buttered tins Uned with letter-paper well-buttered; bake slowly in a moderate
oven. A beautiful white cake. Ice the top. Double the recipe if more is
required.

ENGLISH POUND CAKE.

One pound of butter, one and one-quarter pounds of flour, one pound of
pounded loaf sugar, one pound of currants, nine eggs, two ounces of candied
peel, one-half oimce of citron, one- half ounce of sweet almonds; when hked, a
Uttle pounded mace. Work the butter to a cream; add the sugar, then the well-
beaten yolks of eggs, next the flour, currants, candied peel, which should be cut
into neat slices, and the almonds, which should be blanched and chopped, and
mix all these well together; whisk the whites of eggs, and let them be thoroughly
blended with the other ingredients. Beat the cake well for twenty minutes,
and put it into a round tin, lined at the bottom and sides with strips of white
buttered paper. Bake it from two hours to two and a half, and let the oven be
well-heated when the cake is first put in, as, if this is not the case, the currants
will all sink to the bottom of it. A glass of wine is usually added to the mix-
ture; but this is scarcely necessary, as the cake will be found quite rich enough
without it.

PLAIN POUND CAKE.

This is the old-fashioned recipe that our mothers used to make, and it can be
kept for weeks in an earthen jar, closely covered, first dipping letter-paper in
brandy and placing over the top of the cake before covering the jar

Beat to a cream one pound of butter with one poimd of sugar, after mixing
wen with the beaten yolks of twelve eggs, one grated nutmeg, one glass of

26o CAKES.

wine, one glass of rose-water. Then stir in one pound of sifted flour, and the
well- beaten whites of the e^s. Bake a nice light brown.

COCOANUT POUND CAKE.

One-half cupful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of milk, and fi^e
^gs, beaten to astiff froth; one teaspoonful of soda, and two of cream of tartar,
stirred into four cups of sifted flour. Beat the butter and sugar until veryhght;
to which add the beaten yolks, then the milk, the beaten whites of ^gs, then
the flour by degrees. After beating all well together, add a small cocoanut
grated. Line the cake-pans with paper well buttered, and fill rather more than
half fuU, and bake in a moderate oven. Spread over the top a thin frosting,
sprinkled thickly with grated cocoanut.

CITRON POUND CAKE.

Stir two cups of butter to a cream, then beat in the following ingredients
each one in succession: one pint of powdered sugar, one quart of flour, a tea-
spoonful of salt, eight %gs, the yolks and whites beaten separately, and a wine-
glass of brandy; then last of all add a quarter of a pound of citron cut into thin
slices and floured. line two cake-pans with buttered paper and turn the cake-
batter in. Bake in a moderate oven about three quarters of an hour.

CITRON CAKE.

Three cups of white sugar and one cup of butter creamed together; one cup
of sweet milk, six eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately; one teaspoonful of
vanilla or lemon extract, two heaping teaftpoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted with
four cups and a half of flour. One cup and a half of citron, sliced thin and
dredged with flour. Divide into two cakes and bake in tins lined with buttered
letter-paper.

LEMON CAKE.

Three teacupfuls of sugar, one cupful of butter, flve eggs, a level teaspoonful
of soda dissolved in a cup of sweet milk, four full cups of sifted flour, and
lastly, the grated peel and juice of a lemon, the juice to be added the very last.
Bake in two shallow tins. When cold, ice with lemon idng, and cut into squares.

DELICATE CAKE.

One cup of corn-starch, one of butter, two of sugar, one of sweet milk, two
of flour, the whites of seven eggs; rub butter and sugar to a cream; mix one
teaspoonful cream tartar with the flour and corn-starch; one half teaspoonful

CAKES. 261

soda with the sweet milk; add the milk and soda to the sugar and butter, then
add flour, then the whites o£ %gs; flavor to taste. Never fails to be good.

SILVER, OR DELICATE CAKE.

Whites of six e^s, one cupful of sweet milk, two cupfuls of sugar, four
cupfuls of sifted flour, two-thirds of a cup of butter, flavoring, and two tea-
spoonfuls of baking-powder. Stir the sugar and butter to a cream, then add the
beaten yolks^ the milk and flavoring, part of the flour, the beaten whites of eggs,
then the rest of the flour. Bake carefully in tins lined with buttered white paper.

When using the whites of eggs for nice cake, the yolks need not be wasted;
keep them in a cool place, and scramble them. Serve on toast or with chipped beef.

GOLD CAKE.

After beating to a cream one cup and a half of butter and two cups of
white sugar, stir in the well- whipped yolks of one dozen eggs; four cupfuls of
sifted flour, one teaspoonful of baking-powder. Flavor with lemon. Line the
bake-pans with buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.

GOLD OR LEMON CAKE.

Two cups of sugar, half a cup of butter, the yolks of six eggs, and one whole
one; the grated rind and juice of a lemon or orange; half a teaspoonful of soda,
dissolved in half a cup of sweet milk; fom* cups of sifted flour, sifted twice; cream
the butter and sugar, then add the beaten yolks and the floxu*, beating hard for
several minutes. Last add the lemon or orange, and bake, frosting if liked.
This makes a more suitable lemon cake than if made with the white parts of
eggs added.

SNOW CAKE. (Delicious.)

One poimd of arrowroot, quarter of a pound of pounded white sugar, half a
pound of butter, the whites of six eggs, fliavoring to taste of essence of almonds
or vamlla, or lemon; beat the butter to a cream; stir in the sugar and arrowroot
gradually, at the same time beating the mixture; whisk the whites of the eggs
to a stifif froth; add them to the other ingredients, and beat well for twenty
minutes; put in whichever of the above flavorings may be preferred; pom* the
cake into a buttered mold or tin, and bake it in a moderate oven from one to
one and a half hours. This is a genuine Scotch recipe.

MARBLE CAKE.
White part. — ^Whites of fotir eggs, one cup of white sugar, half a cup of
butter, half a cup of sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one tea-
spoonful of vanilla or lemon, and two and a half cups of sifted flour.

262 CAKES.

Dark part. — ^Tolks of four %gs, one cup of brown sugar, half a cup of cook-
ing molasses, half a cup of butter, half a cup of sour milk, one teaspoonful of
ground cloves, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of mace, one nut-
meg grated, one teaspoonful of soda, the soda to be dissolved in a little milk and
added after part of the flomr is stirred in; one and a half cups of sifted flour.

Drop a spoonful of each kind in a well-buttered cake-dish, first the light part
then the dark, alternately. Try to drop it so that the cake shall be weU-streaked
through, so that it has the appsarance of marble.

SUPERIOR LOAF CAKE.

Two cups of butter, thi^ee cups of sugar, two small cups of milk, seven cups
of sifted flour; four eggs, the whites and yolks separately beaten; one teacupful
of seeded raisins, one teacupful of well-washed and dried currants, one teacup-
ful of sliced citron, one tablespoonful of powdered cinnamon, one teaspoonful of
mace, one teaspoon^ of soda; and one teacupful of home-made yeast.

Take part of the butter and warm it with the milk; stir in part of the flour,
and the yeast, and let it rise; then add the other ingredients with a wine-glass of
wine or brandy. Turn aU into well-buttered cake-tins, and let rise again. Bake
slowly in a moderate oven, for two hours.

FRENCH CHOCOLATE CAKE.

The whites of seven eggs, two cups of sugar, two-thirds of a cup of butter,
one cup of milk and three of flour, and three teaspoonf uls of baking-powder.
The chocolate part of the cake is made just the same, only use the yolks of the
eggs with a cup of grated chocolate stirred into it. Bake it in layers — the layers
being light and dark; then spread a custard between them, which is made with
two eggs, one pint of milk, one-half cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of flour or
corn-starch; when cool, flavor with vanilla, two teaspoonfuls. Fine.

CHOCOLATE CAKE. No. i.

One cup of butter and two cups of sugar stirred to a cream, with the yolks
of flve eggs added after they have been well-beaten. Then stir into that one
cup of milk, beat the whites of two of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add that also;
now put in three cups and a half of sifted flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls of
baking-powder having been stirred into it. Bake in jeUy-cake tins.

Mixture for filling. — Take the remaining three whites of the eggs beaten very
stiff; two cupfuls of sugar boiled to almost candy or until it becomes stringy or
almost brittle; take it hot from the flre, and pour it very slowly on the beaten
whites of egg, beating quite fast; add one- half cake of grated chocolate, a tea-

CAKES. 263

spoonful of vaniUa extract. Stir it all until cool, then spread between each
cake, and over the top and sides. This, when well-made, is the premium cake
of its kind.

CHOCOLATE CAKE. No. 2.

One-half cup butter, two cups sugar, three-quarters of a cup sweet milk, two
and one-half cups flour, whites of eight eggs» one teaspoonful of cream tartar,
one-half teaspoonful soda; bake in shallow pans.

For the frosting.— Take the whites of three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of
sugar and one tablespoonful of grated chocolate (confectioners') to one egg; put
the cake together with the frosting, then frost the top of the cake with the same.

CHOCOLATE CAKE. No. 3-

Two cups sugar, one cup butter, yolks of five eggs and whites of two, and
one cup milk. Thoroughly mix two teaspoonfuls baking-powder with three and
one-half cups flour, while dry; then mix all together. Bake in jelly tins.

Mixture for filling. — Whites of three eggs, one and one-half cups of sugar,
three tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, one teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat
together, and spread between the layers and on top of the cake.

COCOANUT CAKE.

Cream together three quarters of a cup of butter and two of white sugar;
then add one cup of sweet milk, four eggs, whites and yolks separately beaten,
the yolks added first to the butter and sugar, then the whites; flavor with lemon
or vaniUa; mix three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder in three cups of
sifted flour and add last; bake in jelly-pans.

For filling. — Make an icing by beating the whites of three eggs and a cup of
powdered sugar to a stifif froth. When the cake is cooled, spread a thick layer of
this frosting over each cake, and sprinkle very thickly with grated cocoanut.

COCOANUT AND ALMOND CAKE.

Two and one-half cups powdered sugar, one cup butter, four full cups pre-
pared flour, whites of seven eggs, whisked stifif; one small cup of milk, with a
mere pinch of soda; one grated cocoanut, one-half teaspoonful nutmeg, the juice
and half the grated peel of one lemon; cream, butter and sugar; stir in lemon
and nutmeg; mix well; add the milk and whites and flour alternately. Lastly,
stir in the grated cocoanut swiftly and Ughtly. Bake in four jelly-cake tins.

Filling.— One pound sweet almonds, whites of four eggs, whisked stifif; one
heaping cup powdered sugar^ two teaspoonfuls rose-water. Blanch the almonds.

264 CAKES.

Let them get cold and dry; then pound in a Wedgewood mortar, adding rose-
water as you go. Save about two dozen to shred for the top. Stir the paste
into the idng after it is made; spread between the cooled cakes; make that for
the top a trifle thicker and lay it on heavily. When it has stiffened somewhat,
stick the shred almonds closely over it. Set in the oveirto harden, but do not
let it scorch.

COFFEE CAKE.
One cup of brown sugar, one cup of butter, two eggs, one-half cup of molas-
ses, one cup of strong, cold coffee, one teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves, one cup of raisins or currants, and five
cups of sifted flour. Add the fruit last, rubbed in a little of the flour. Bake
about one hour.

FEATHER CAKE.

One egg, one cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of cold butter, half a cup of milk;
one and one-half cups of flour; one teaspoonful of cream tartar; half a teaspoon-
ful of soda. A nice plain cake — ^to be eaten while it is fresh. A spoonful of
dried apple sauce or of peach sauce, a spoonful of jelly, the same of lemon
extract, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and spice— ground — or half a cupful of raisins
might be added for a change.

ELECTION CAKE.

Three cups milk, two cups sugar, one cup yeast; stir to a batter, and let
stand over .night; in the morning add two cups sugar, two cups butter, three
eggs, half a nutmeg, one tablespoonful cinnamon, one poimd raisins, a gill of
brandy.

Brown sugar is much better than white for this kind of cake, and it is
improved by dissolving a half -teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of milk
in the morning. It should stand in the greased pans and rise some time until
quite light before baking.

CREAM CAKE.

Four eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, two teacups of sugar, one cup
of sweet cream, two heaping cupfuls of fioyxij one teaspoonful of soda; mix two
teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar in the flour before sifting. Add the whites the
last thing before the flour, and stir that in gently without beating.

GOLDEN CREAM-CAKE.

Yolks of eight eggs beaten to the lightest possible cream, two cupfuls of sugar,
a pinch of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder sifted well with flour. Bake

CAKES. 265

in three jelly-cake x)ans. Make an icing of the whites of three ^gs and one
pound of sugar. Spread it between the cakes and sprinkle grated cocoanut
thickly over each layer. It is delicious when properly made.

DRIED APPLE FRUIT-CAKE.

Soak three cupf uls of dried apples over night in cold water enough to swell
them; chop them in the morning, and put them on the fire with three cups of
molasses; stew until almost soft; add a cupful of nice raisins (seedless, if possi-
ble), and stew a few moments; when cold, add three cupfuls of flour, one cupful
of butter, three eggs, and a teaspoonful of soda; bake in a steady oven. This
will make two good-sized panfuls of splendid cake; the apples wiU cook like
dtron and taste delidously. Eaisios may be omitted; also spices to taste may be
added. This is not a dear, but a delicious cake.

CAKE WITHOUT EGGS.

Beat together one teacupful of butter, and three teacupf uls of sugar, and
when quite light stir in one pint of sifted flour. Add to this, one pound of
raisins, seeded and chopped, then mixed with a cup of sifted flour, one teaspoon-
ful of nutmeg, one teaspoonfxfl of powdered cinnamon, and lastly, one pint of
thick sour cream. or milk, in which a teaspoonful of soda is dissolved. Bake
immediately in buttered tins one hour in a moderate oven.

WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. No. i.

Two cups of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, the whites of seven eggs, well-
beaten, two-thirds cup of sweet milk, two cups of flour, one cup of corn-starch,
two teaspoonfuls baking-powder. Bake in jeUy-cake tios.

JBVosting. — Whites of three eggs and some sugar beaten together not quite as
stiff as usual for frosting; spread over the cake; add some grated cocoanut;
then put your cakes together; put cocoanut and frosting on t<q).

WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. No. 2.

Cream three cupfuls of sugar and one of butter, making it very light, then
add a cupful of milk. Beat the whites of eight eggs very stiff, add half of those
to the other ingredients. Mix well into four cups of sifted flour one tablespoon-
ful of baking-powder; stir this into the cake, add flavoring, then the remaining
beaten whites of egg. Bake in layers like jelly-cake. Make an icing for the
filling, using the whites of four eggs beaten to a very stiff froth, with two cups
of fine white sugar, and the juice of half a leipon. Spread each layer of the

266 CAKES.

cake thickly with this icmg, place one on another, then ice all over the top and
sides. The yolks left £rom this cake may be used to make a spice-cake from
the recipe of^* Gtolden Spice-Cake."

QUEEN»S CAKE.

Beat weU together one cupful of butter, and three cupf uls of white sugar;
add the yolks of six eggs and one cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla or
lemon extract. Mix aU thoroughly. To four cupfuls of flour, add two heap-
ing teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, and sift gently over the cake, stirring all the
time. To this add one even teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in one tablespoonful
of warm water. Mix it welL Stir in gently the whites of six eggs beaten to a
stiff foam. Bake slowly. It should be put in the oven as soon as possible after-
putting in the soda and whites of eggs.

This is the same recipe as the one for '^ Citron Cake, " only omitting the citron.

ANGEL CAKE.

Put into one tumbler of flour one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, then sift it
five times. Sift also one glass and a half of white powdered sugar. Beat to a
stiff froth the whites of eleven eggs; stir the sugar into the eggs by degrees,
very lightly and carefully, adding three teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract. After
this, add the flour, stirring quickly and lightly. Pour it into a dean, bright tin
cake-dish, wliich should not be buttered or lined. Bake at once in a moderate
oven about forty minutes, testing it v^ith a broom splint*. When done, let it
remain in the cake-tin, turning it upside down, with the sides resting on the top
of two saucers, so that a current of air will pass under and over it.

This is the best recipe found after trying several. A perfection cake.

WASHINGTON LOAF-CAKE,

Three cups of sugar, two scant cups of butter, one cup of sour milk, five
eggs, and one teaspoonful of soda, three tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, half a nut-
meg, grated, and two cups of raisins, one of currants, and four cups of sifted
flour.

Mix as usual, and stir the fruit in at the last, dredged in flour. line the
cake-pans with paper well buttered. This cake will take longer to bake than
plain; the heat of the oven must be kept at an even temperature.

RIBBON CAKE.

This cake is made from the same recipe as marble cake, only make double
the quantity of the white part, and divide it in one half; put into it a very little

CAKES. 267

<x)chmeal. It will be a delicate pink. Bake in jelly-cake tins, and lay first the
white, then the dark, then the pink one on top of the others; put together with
frosting between. It makes quite a fancy cake. Frost the top when cooL

GOLDEN SPICE-CAKE.

This cake can be made to advantage when you have the yolks of ^ggs left,
:after having used the whites in making white cake.

Take the yolks of seven %gs, and one whole egg, two cupfuls of brown
«ugar, one cupful of molasses, one cupful of butter, one laige coffee-cupful of
«our milk, one teaspoonful of soda, (just even full), and five cupfuls of fiour, one
teaspoonful of ground cloves, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls
of ginger, one nutmeg, and a small pinch of Cayenne pepper; beat eggs, sugar
.and butter to a light batter before putting in the molasses; then add the
molasses, fiour and milk; beat it well together, and bake in a moderate oven; if
fruit is used, take two cupfuls of raisins, fiour them well and put them in last.

ALMOND CAKE.

One-half cupful butter, two cupfuls sugar, four eggs, one-half cupful almonds,
blanched — ^by pouring water on them until skins easily slip off — ^and cut in fine
shreds, one-half teaspoonful extract bitter almonds, one pint fiour, one and one-
half teaspoonful baking-powder, one glass brandy, one-half cupful milk. Eub
butter and sugar to a smooth white cream; add eggs, one at a time, beating
three or four minutes between each. Sift fiour and powder together, add to the
butter, etc., with almonds, extract of bitter almonds, brandy, and milk; mix
into a smooth, medium batter; bake carefully in rather a hot oven twenty minutes.

ROCHESTER JELLY CAKE.

One and one-half cups sugar, two e^s, one-half cup butter, three-fourths
<nip milk, two heaping cups fiour with one teaspoonful cream tartar, one-half
teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in the milk. Put half the above mixture in a
small shallow tin, and to the remainder add one teaspoonful molasses> one-half
<nip raisins (chopped) or currants, one-half teaspoonful cinnamon, cloves, allspice,
and a little nutmeg, and one tablespoonful fiour. Bake this in same kind of
tins. Put the sheets of cake together while warm, with jelly between.

FRUIT LAYER CAKE.

This is a delicious novelty in cake-making. Take one cup of sugar, half a
cup of butter, one cup and a half of fiour, half a cup of wine, one cup of raisins.

268 CAKES.

two QfS^ and half a teaspoonful of soda; put these ingredients together with
care, just as if it were a very rich cake; bake it in three layers, and put frosting
between— the frosting to be made of the whites of two eggs with enough pow-
dered sugar to make it thick. The top of the cake may be frosted if you choose*

WHIPPED CREAM CAKE.

One cup of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of soft butter stirred together; add
the yolks of two e^s well-beaten, then add four tablespoonfuls of millr^ some
flavoring, then the beaten whites of the eggs. Mix a teaspoonful of cream
tartar and half a teaspoon of soda in a cup of flour, sift it into the cake batter,
and stir in lightly. Bake in a small dripping-pan. When the cake is cool, have
ready half of a pint of sweet cream sweetened and whipped to a stiff froth, also
flavored. Spread it over the cake while fresh. To whip the cream easily, set it
on ice before whipping.

ROLLED JELLY CAKE.

Three eggs, one teacup of fljie sugar, one teacup of flour; beat the yolks imtil
light, then add the sugar, then add two tablespoonfuls of water, a pinch of salt;
lastly stir in the flour, in which there should be a heaping teaspoonful of baking-
powder. The flour added gradually. Bake in long, shallow biscuit-tins, well-
greased. Turn out on a damp towel on a bread-board, and cover the top with
jelly, and roll up while warm.

TO CUT LAYER CAKE.

When cutting Layer-Cakes, it is better to first make a round hole in the
cake, with a knife or tin tube, about an inch and a quarter in diameter. This
prevents the edge of the cake from crumbling when cutting it.

When making custard fllUng for Layer-Cake, always set the dish contain-
ing the custard in another dish of boiling water over the fire; this prevents its
burning, which would destroy its flavor.

LAYER JELLY CAKE.

Almost any soft cake recipe can be used for jelly-cake. The following is
excellent: One cup of sugar, half a cup of butter, three eggs, half a cup of sweet
milk, two cups of flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, flavoring.

For white, delicate cake, the rule for '* Silver Cake " is fine; care should be
taken, however, that the oven is just right for this cake, as it browns very
easily. To be baked in jelly-cake tins, in layers, with filling put between when
done.

CAKES— FILLINGS FOR LA YER CAKES. 269

Any of the following cake filling recipes may be used with these cake recipes.

jfilHnos tot XaKt Cakes.

No. I. CREAM FILLING.

Cream filling is made with one pint of new milk, two eggs, three tablespoon-
fuls of sifted flour (or half cup of com stai^ch), one cup of sugar. Put two-thirds
of the Tnillr on the stove to boil, stir the sugar, flour and eggs in what is left.
When the nriillr boils, put into it the whole, and cook it imtil it is as thick as
custard; when cool, add vamlla extract. This custard is nice with a cup of
hickory nuts, kernels chopped fine, and stirred into it. Spread between the
layers of cake. This custard can be made of the yolks of the eggs only, saving
the whites for the cake part.

No. 2. ANOTHER CREAM FILLING.

One cup powdered sugar, one-fourth cup hot water. Let them simmer.
Beat white of an egg and mix with the above; when cold, add one-half cup-
chopped raisms, one-half cup chopped walnuts, one tablespoonful of grated
cocoanut.

No. 3- ICE-CREAM FILLING.

Make an icing as follows: Three cups of sugar, one of water; boil to a thick,
clear syrup, or until it begins to be brittle; pom: this, boiling hot, over the well-
beaten whites of three eggs; stir the mixtm^e very briskly, and pour the sugar
in slowly; beat it when all in, until cool. Flavor with lemon or vanilla extract.
This, spread between any white cake layers, answers for " Ice-Cream Cake."

No. 4. APPLE FILLING.

Peel, and slice green, tart apples; put them on the fire with sugar to suit;
when tender, remove, rub them through a fine sieve, and add a small piece of
butter. When cold, use to spread between the layers; cover the cake with
plenty of sugar.

No. 5. ANOTHER APPLE FILLING.

One coflfee-cup of sugar, one egg, three large apples grated, one lemon grated,
juice and outside of the rind; beat together and cook till quite thick. To be
cooled before putting on the cake. Spread between layers of cake.

270 CAKES— FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES.

No. 6. CREAM FROSTING.

A cup of sweet thick cream whipped, sweetened and flavored with vanilla^
cut a loaf of cake in two, spread the frosting between and on the top; this tastes
like Charlotte Russe.

No. 7. PEACH-CREAM FILLING.

Cut peaches into thin slices, or chop them and prepare cream by whipping
and sweetening. Put a layer of peaches between the layers of cake and pour
cream over each layer and over the top. Bananas, strawberries or other fruits
may be used in the same way, milling strawberries, and stewing thick with
powdered sugar.

No. & CHOCOLATE CREAM FOR FILLING.

Five tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, enough cream or milk to wet it, one
cupful of sugar, one Qgg, one teaspoonful vanilla flavoring. Stir the ingredients
over the fire until thoroughly mixed, having beaten the egg well before adding
it; then add the vanilla flavoring after it is removed from the fire.

No. 9. ANOTHER CHOCOLATE FILLING.

The whites of three eggs beaten stiff, one cup of sugar, and ono.cup of grated
chocolate, put between the layers and on top.

No. zo. BANANA FILLING.

Make an icing of the whites of two Qggs, and one cup and a half of pow:dered
sugar. Spread this on the layers, and then cover thickly and entirely with
bananas sliced thin or chopped fine. This cake may be flavored with vanilla.
The top should be simply frosted.

No. II. LEMON-JELLY FILLING.

Grate tha yellow from the rind of two lemons and squeeze out the juice; two
cupfuls of sugar, the yolks and whites of two eggs beaten separately. Mjy the
sugar and yolks, then add the whites, and then the lemons. Now, pour on a
cupful of boiling water; stir into this two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, rubbed
smooth in half a cup of water; th^i add a tablespoonful of melted butter; cook
until it thickens. When cold, spread between the layers of cake. Oranges can
be used in place of lemons.

Another filling of lemon (without cooking) is made of the grated rind and
juice of two lemons, and the whites of two eggs beaten with one cup of sugar. ^

CAKES. 271

No. Z2. ORANGE-CAKE FILLING.

Peel two large oranges, remove the seeds, chop them fine, add half a peeled
lemon, one cup of sugar, and the well-beaten white of an egg. Spread be-
tween the layers of " SUver Cake " recipe.

No. 13. FIG FILLING.

Take a pound of figs, chop fine, and put into a stew-pan on the stove; pour
over them a teacupful of water, and add a half cup of sugar. Cook all together
mitil soft and smooth. When cold, spread between layers of cake.

No. 14. FRUIT FILLING.

Four tablespoonfuls of x^eryfine chopped citron, four tablespoonfuls of finely
chopped seeded raisins; half of a cupful of blanched almonds chopped fine; also
a quarter of a pound of finely chopped figs. Beat the whites of three eggs to a
stiff froth, adding half of a cupful of sugar; then mix thoroughly into this the
whole of the chopped ingredients. Put it between the layers of cake when the
cake is hoty so that it will cook the egg a little. This will be found delicious.

CUSTARD OR CREAM CAKE.

Cream together two cups of sugar and half a cup of butter; add half a cup of
sweet milk in which is dissolved half a teaspoonful of soda. Beat the whites of
six eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the mixture. Have one heaping teaspoonf ul
of cream tartar stirred thoroughly into three cups of sifted flour, and add quickly.
Bake in a moderate oven, in layers like jelly-cake, and when done, spread cus-
tard between.

For the Cvstard. — Take two cups of sweet milk, put it into a clean suitable
dish, set it in a dish of hailing water on the range or stove. When the milk
comes to a boil, add two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch or flour stirred into half a
cup of sugar, adding the yolks of four eggs, and a little cold milk. Stir this into
the boiling milk, and when cooked thick enough, set aside to cool; afterwards
add the flavoring, either vanilla or lemon. It is best to make the custard first,
before making the cake part.

HICKORY NUT OR WALNUT CAKE.
Two cups of fine, white sugar, creamed with half a cup of butter, three eggs,
two-thirds of a cnp of sweet milk, three cups of sifted flour, one heaping tea-
spoonful of baking powder sifted through the flour. A tablespoonful (level) of

272 CAKES.

powdered mace, a coflPee-cup of hickory nut or walnut meats, chopped a little.
Pill the cake-pans with a layer of the cake, then a layer of raisins upon that,
then strew over these a handful of nuts, and so on, until the pan is two-thiids
full. line the tins with well-buttered paper, and bake in a steady but not quick
oven. This is most excellent.

CHEAP CREAM CAKE.

One cup of sugar, one egg, one cup sweet milk, two cups flour, one taUe-
spoonful butter, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; flavor to taste.
Divide into three parts, and bake in round shallow pans.

Cream. — Beat one egg and one half cup sugar together, then add one quarter
cup flour, wet with a very little milk, and stir this mixture into one half pint of
boiling milk, until thick; flavor to taste. Spread the cream when cool between
the cakes.

SOFT GINGER CAKE.

Stir to a cream one cupful of butter and half a cupful of brown sugar; add to
this two cupfuls of cooking molasses, a cupful of sweet milk, a tablespoonful of
ginger, a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon; beat all thoroughly together, then
add three eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately; beat into this two cups
of sifted flour, then a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoonful of water, and
last, two more cupfuls of sifted flour. Butter and paper two common square
bread-pans, divide the mixture and pour half into each. Bake in a moderate
oven. This cake requires long and slow baking, from forty to sixty minutes.
I find that if sour milk is used, the cakes are much lighter, but either sweet or
sour is most excellent.

HARD GINGERBREAD.

Made the same as ^^ Soft Gingerbread," omitting the eggs, and mixing hard
enough to roU out hke biscuit; rolled nearly half an inch thick, and cut out like
small biscuits, or it can be baked in a sheet or on a biscuit-tin; cut slits a quarter
of an inch deep across the top of the tin from side to side. When baked and
while hot, rub over the top with molasses, and let it dry on.

These two above recipes are the best I have ever found among a large variety
that I have tried, the ingredients giving the best proportion for flavor and
excellence.

PLAIN GINGERBREAD.

One cup of dark cooking molasses, one cup of sour cream, one ^g, one tea-
spoonful of soda, dissolved in a little warm water, a teaspoonful of salt, and one
heaping teaspoonful of ginger; make about as thick as cup-cake. To be eaten
wamL

CAKES* 27^

WHITE GINGER BISCUIT.

One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of sour cream or milk, three
Qggs, one teaspoonf ul of soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of warm water, one
tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of groimd cinnamon, and five cups of
sifted flour, or enough to roll out soft. Cut out rather thick, like biscuits; brush
over the tops while hot, with the white of an ^g, or sprinkle with sugar while
hot.

The grated rind and the juice of an orange add much to the flavor of ginger
cake.

GOLD AND SILVER CAKE.

This cake is baked in layers like jelly-cake. Divide the silver-cake batter, and
color it pink with a httle cochineal; this gives you pink, white and yellow layers.
Put together with frosting. Frost the top.

This can be put together hke marble cake, first a spoonful of one kind, then
another, until the dish is full.

BOSTON CREAM CAKES.

Put into a large-sized sauce-pan half a cup of butter, and one cup of hot
water; set it on the fire; when the mixture begins to boil, turn in a pint of sifted
flour at once, beat and work it well with a vegetable-masher until it is very
smooth. Eemove from the fire, and when cool enough add five eggs that have
been well beaten, first the yolks and then the whites, also half a teaspoonful of
soda and a teaspoonful of salt. Drop on buttered tins in large spoonfuls, about
two inches apart. Bake in a quick oven about fifteen minutes. When done
and quite cold, open them on the side with a knife or scissors, and put in as much
of the custard as possible.

Cream for filling. — Made of two eggs» three tablespoonfuls of sifted flour (or
half cup of corn-starch), and one cup of sugar. Put two-thirds of a pint of mik
over the fire in a double boiler, in a third of a pint of milk; stir the sugar, flour
and beaten eggs. As soon as the milk looks like boiling, pour in the mixture,
and stir briskly for three minutes, until it thickens; then remove from the fire
and add a teaspoonEul of butter; when cool, flavor with vanilla or lemon, and
fill your cakes.

CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS.

Make the mixture exactly like the recipe for "Boston Cream Cakes.'*

Spread it on buttered pans in oblong pieces about four inches long and one and

a half wide, to be laid about two inches apart; they must be baked in a rather

2 74 CAX£S

quick oven^ about twenty-five minutes. As soon as baked, ice with chocolate
icing, and when this is cold, split them on one side, and fill with the same cream
as '^Boston Cream Cakes."

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE.
Beat a cup of butter and two cups of sugar toother until Ught, then add a
half cup of milk, four ^gs, beaten separately, the yolks to a cream, and the
whites to a stiff froth, one teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, the same of cinnamon,
and two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. The baking-powder to be rubbed inta
the fiour. Bub one quart of huckleberries well with some flour, and add them last,
but do not mash them. Pour into buttered pans, about an inch thick; dust the
tops with sugar and bake. It is better the day after baking.

SWEET STRAWBERRY CAKE.

Three ^gs, one cupful of sugar, two of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, a
teaspoonful, heaped, of baking-powder. Beat the butter and sugar together,
and add the eggs well beaten. Stir in the flour and baking-powder well sifted
together. Bake in deep tin plate. This quantity will fill four plates. With
three pints of strawberries, mix a cupful of sugar and mash them a Uttle.
Spread the fruit between the layers of cake. The top layer of strawberries may
be covered with a meringue made with the white of an egg and a tablespoonful
of powdered sugar.

Save out the largest berries, and arrange them around in circles on the top in
the white frosting. Makes a very fancy dish, as well as a most deUcious cake.

MOLASSES CUP CAKES.

One cupful of butter, one of sugar, six eggs, five cupfuls of sifted flour, one
tablespoonful of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of ginger, three teacupfuls of
cooking molasses, and one heaping teaspoonful of soda. Stir the butter and
sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very light, the yolks and whites separately, and
add to it; after which put in the spices; then the molasses and fiour in rota-
tion, stirring the mixture all the time; beat the whole weU before adding the
soda, and but httle afterwards. Put into well-buttered patty-pan tins, and bake
in a very moderate oven. A baker's recipe.

BAKERS' GINGER SNAPS.

Boil all together the following ingredients: Two cups of brown i^ugar, two
cups of cooking molasses, one cup of shortening, which should be part butter,
one large tablespoonful of ginger, one tablespoonf td of ground cinnamon, one
teaspoonful of cloves; remove from the fire and let it cool. In the meantime,.

CAKES. 275

sift four cups of flour and stir part of it into the above mixture. Now dissolve
a teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of warm water and beat into this mix-
ture^ stir in the remainder of the flour, and make stiff enough to roll into long
rolls about one inch in diameter, and cut off from the end into half -inch pieces.
Place them on weU-buttered tins, giving plenty of room to spread. Bake in a
moderate oven. Let them cool before taking out of the tins.

GINGER COOKIES.

One cup sugar, one cup molasses, one cup butter, one egg, one tablespoonful
vinegar, one tablespoonful ginger, one teaspoonful soda, dissolved in boiling
water, mix like cookey dough, rather soft.

GINGER SNAPS.

One cup brown sugar, two cups molasses, one large cup butter, two tea-
spoonfuls soda, two teaspoonfuls ginger, three pints flour to commence with;
rub shortening and sugar together into the flour; add enough more floxu* to roll
very smooth, very thin, and bake in a quick oven. The dough can be kept for
days by putting it in the flour-barrel under the flour, and bake a few at a time.
The more flour that can be worked in and the smoother they can be rolled, the
better and more brittle they will be. Should be rolled out to wafer-like thin-
ness. Bake quickly without burning. They should become perfectly cold before
putting aside.

DOMINOES.

Have a plain cake baked in rather thin sheets, and cut into small oblong
pieces the size and shape of a domino, a trifle larger. Frost the top and sides.
When the frosting is hard, draw the black lines and make the dots, with a small
brush dipped in melted chocolate. These are very nice for children's parties.

FANCY CAKES.

These delicious little fancy cakes may be made by making a rich jumble-
paste— rolling out in any desired shape; cut some paste in thick, narrow strips
and lay aroxmd your cakes, so as to form a deep, cup-hke edge; place on a well-
buttered tin and bake. When done, fill with iced fruit, prepared as follows:
Take rich, ripe peaches (canned nes will do, if fine and well-drained from all
juice), cut in halves; plmns, strawberries, pineapples cut in squares, or small
triangles, or any other available fruit, and dip in the white of an egg that has
been very sUghtly beaten and then in pulveiized sugar, and lay in the centre of
yorur cakes.

276 CAKES.

WAFERS.

Dissolve four ounces of butter in half a teacup of milk; stir together four
ounc^ of white sugar, eight ounces of sifted flour, and the yolk of one egg, add-
ing gradually the butter and milk, a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and
a pinch of salt; mix it well. Heat the wafer-irons, butter their inner surfaces,
put in a tablespoonful of the batter, and close the irons immediately; put the
irons over the fire, and turn them occasionally, rmtil the wafer is cooked; when
the wafers are aU cooked, roll them on a small round stick, stand them upon a
sieve, and dry them; serve with ices.

PEACH CAKES.

Take the yolks and whites of five eggs and beat them separately (the whites
to a stiff froth). Then mix the beaten yolks with half a pound of pulverized and
sifted loaf or crushed sugar, and beat the two together thoroughly. Fifteen
minutes will be none too long for the latter operation if you would have excel-
lence with your cakes.

Now add half a pound of fine flour, dredging it in a little at a time^ and then
put in the whites of the ^gs, beating the whole together for four or five minutes.
Then with a large spoon, drop the batter upon a baking-tin, which has been
buttered and floiu^, being careful to have the cakes as nearly the same size as
possible, and resembUng in shape the half of a peach. Have a quick oven ready,
and bake the cakes about ten minutes, watching them closely so that they may
only come to a light brown color. Then take them out, spread the flat side of
each with peach jam, and stick them together in pairs, covering the outside with
a thin coat of icing, which when dry can be brushed over on one side of the
cake, with a little cochineal water.

CUP CAKES.

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of milk, three cups and a half
of flour, and four eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, large spoon cream tartar; stir
butter and sugar together, and add the beaten yolks of the eggs, then the milk,
then flavoring, and the whites. Put cream tartar in flour and add last. Bake
in buttered gem-pans, or drop the batter, a teaspoonful at a time, in rows, on
flat buttered tins.

To this recipe may be added a cup of English currants or chopped raisins;
and aiso another variety of cakes may be made by adding a half cup of citron
sliced and floured a half -cupful of chopped almonds, and lemon extract.

~Be~? - ■» mm^^mmmmmm^'^i^i^m'^Siammmm^mmmt

CAKES.

VARIEGATED CAKES.

27;

One cup powdered sugar, one-half cup of butter creamed with the sugar,
one-half cup of milk, four eggs, the whites only, whipped light, two and one-
half cups of prepared flour. Bitter almond flavoring, spinach juice and cochineal.
Cream, the butter and sugar; add the milk, flavoring, the whites and flour.
Divide the batter into three parts. Bruise and pound a few leaves of spinach in
a i^hm muslin bag until you can express the juice. Put a few drops of this into
one portion of the batter, color another with cochineal, leaving the third white.
Put a little of each into small, round pans or cups, giving a light stir to each
color as you add the next. This will vein the cakes prettily. Put the white
between the pink and green, that the tints may show better. If you can get
pistachio nuts to pound up for the green, the cakes will be much nicer. Ice on
sides and top.

CORN STARCH CAKES.

One cupful each of butter and sweet milk, and half a cup of corn-starch, two
cupfuls each of sugar and flour, the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth,
two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and one of soda; flavor to taste. Bake in
gem- tins or patty -pans.

SPONGE DROPS.

Beat to a froth three eggs and one teacup of sugar; stir into this one heaping
coffee-cup of flour, in which one teaspoonf ul of cream of tartar and half a tea-
spoonful of saleratus are thoroughly mixed. Flavor with lemon. Butter tin
sheets with washed butter, and drop in teaspoonfuls about three inches apart.
Bake instantly in a very quick oven. Watch closely as they will bum easily.
Serve with ice cream.

SAVORY BISCUITS OR LADY FINGERS.

Put nine tablespoonfuls of fine white sugar into a bowl, and put the bowl
into hot water to heat the sugar; when the sugar is thoroughly heated, break
nine eggs into the bowl and beat them quickly until they become a Uttle warm
and rather thick; then take the bowl from the water, and continue beating imtil
it is nearly or quite cold; now stir in lightly nine tablespoonfuls of sifted flour;
then with a paper-funnel, or something of the kind, lay this mixture out upon
papers, in biscuits three inches long and half an inch thick, in the form of
fingers; sift sugar over the biscuits, and bake them upon tins to a light brown;
when they are done and cold, remove them from the papers, by wetting them

278 CAKES.

on the back; dry them, and they are ready for use. They are often used in
making Charlotte Busse.

PASTRY SANDWICHES,
Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an egg, sifted sugar.
Boll the paste out thin; put half of it on a baking-sheet or tin, and spread
equally over it apricot, greengage, or any preserve that may be preferred. Lay
over this preserve another thin paste, press the edges together aU round, and
mark the paste in hues with a knife on the surface, to show where to cut it
when baked. Bake from twenty minutes to half an hour; and, a short time
before being done, take the pastry out of the oven, brush it over with the white
of an egg, sift over pounded sugar, and put it back in the oven to color. When
cold, cut it into strips; pile these on a dish pjrramidically, and serve.

This may be made of jelly-cake dough, and, after baking, allowed to cool
before spreading with the preserve; either way is good, as well as fandfuL

NEAPOLITAINES.

One cup of powdered sugar, half a cup of butter, two tablespoonf uls of lemon-
juice, three whole eggs, and three yolks, beaten separately; three cups of sifted
flour. Put this all together with half a teaspoonf ul of soda, dissolved in a table-
spoonful of milk. If it is too stiff to roU out, add just enough more milk. Boll
it out a quarter of an inch thick, and cut it out with any tin cutter. Place the
cakes in a pan slightly gi'eased, and color the tops with beaten egg and mWk^
with some chopped almonds over them. Bake in a rather qmck oven.

BRUNSWICK JELLV CAKES.

Stir one cup of powdered white sugar, and one half cup of butter together, till
perfectly light; beat the yolks of three eggs till very thick and smooth; sift three
cups of flour, and stir it into the beaten eggs with the butter and sugar; add a
teaspoonf ul of mixed spice (nutmeg, mace and cinnamon) and half a glstss of
rose-water or wine; stir the whole well, and lay it on your paste-board, which
must first be sprinkled with flour; if you find it so moist as to be unmanageable,
throw in a Uttle more flour; spread the dough into a sheet about half an inch
thick, and cut it out in round cakes with a biscuit-cutter; lay them in buttered
pans and bake about five or six minutes; when cold, spread over the surface of
each cake a liquor of fruit- jelly or marmalade; then beat the whites of three or
four eggs till it stands alone; beat into the froth, by degrees, a sufficiency of
powdered loaf-sugar to make it as thick as icing; flavor with a few drops dt
strong essence of lemon, and with a spoon heap it up on each cake, Tn«.Tring it

CAKES. 2 79

high in the centre; put the cakes into a coal oven, and as soon as the tops are
colored a pale brown, take them out.

LITTLE PLUM CAKES.

One cup of sugar and half a cup of butter, beaten to a smooth cream; add
three well-beaten ^gs, a teaspoonf ul of vanilla extract, f oiu* cups of sifted flour,
one cup of raisins, and one of currants, half of a teaspoonful of baking-soda,
dissolved in a little water, and milk enough to make a stiff batter; drop this
batter in drops on well-buttered tins, and bake in a quick oven.

JUMBLES.

Cream together two cups of sugar and one of butter, add three well-beaten
eggs and six tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder,
flavor to taste; flour enough to make into a soft dough; do not roll it on the
paste-board, but break off pieces of dough the size of a walnut and make into
rings by rolling out rolls as large as your tmger, and joining the ends; lay them
on tins to bake, an inch apart, as it rises and spreads; bake in a moderaie oven.
These jumbles are very delicate, will keep a long time.

WINE JUMBLES.

One cup of butter, two of sugar, three eggs, one wine-glass of wine, one
spoonful of vanilla, and flour enough to roll out. Boll as thin as the blade of a
knife, and cut with an oval cutter. Bake on tin-sheets, in a quick oven, until a
dark brown. These will keep a year if kept in a tin box and in a dry place.

COCOANUT JUMBLES.

Grate one large cupful of cocoanut; rub one cupful of butter with one and a
half cupfuls of sugar; add three beaten eggs, whites and yolks separately, two
tablespoonfuls of milk, and five cupfuls of sifted flour; then add by degrees the
grated nut, so as to make a stiff dough, rolled thin, and cut with a round cutter,
having a hole in the middle. Bake in a quick oven from five to ten minutes.

PHILADELPHIA JUMBLES.

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, eight eggs, beaten Ught; essence of
bitter almond or rose to taste; enough flour to enable you to roU them out.

Stir the sugar and butter to a light cream, then add the well- whipped eggs,
the flavoring and flour; mix well together, roll out in powdered sugar, roll in a
sheet a quarter of an inch thick; cut into rings with a jagging-iron, and bake in
a quick oven on buttered tins.

28o CAKES.

ALMOND JUMBLES.

Three cupfuls of soft sugar, two cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of butter, one
teacupful of loppered milk, five ^gs, well-beaten, two tablespoonfuls of rose-
water, three-quajrters of a pound of almonds, blanched and chopped very fine;
one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in boiling water.

Cream, butter and sugar; stir in the beaten yolks the milk, flour, rose-water,
almoads, and, lastly, the beaten whites very lightly, and quickly; drop in rings
on buttered paper, and bake at once.

FRUIT JUMBLES.

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, five cupfuls of flour, five eggs, one
small teacupful of milk, in which dissolve half a teaspoonful of soda; cream the
butter; add the sugar; cream again; then add yolks of eggs, the milk, beaten
whites and flour; a little cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and groimd doves, and
one-quarter of a pound of currants, rolled in flour.

COOKIES.

One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, a small teacupful of sweet milk, half a
grated nutmeg, and five cups of sifted flour, in which there has been sifted with
it two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; mix into a soft dough, and cut into
round cakes; roll the dough as thin as pie-crust. Bake in a quick oven a light-
brown. These can be made of sour milk and a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in
it, or sour or sweet cream can be used in place of butter.

Water cookies made the same as above, using water in place of milk. Water
cookies keep longer than milk cookies.

FAVORITE COOKIES.
One cup of butter, one and a half cups of sugar, one half cup of sour milk,
one level teaspoonful of soda, a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Mour enough to
roll; make quite soft. Put a tablespoonful of flne sugar on a plate and dip the
tops of each as you cut them out. Place on buttered tins and bake in a quick
oven, a light brown.

FRUIT COOKIES.
One cupful and a half of sugar, one cupful of butter, one-half cup of sweet
milk, one egg, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a teaspoonful of grated nut-
meg, three tablespoonfuls of English currants or chopped raisins. Mix soft, and
roll out, using just enough flour to stiffen sufficiently. Cut out with a large
cutter, wet the tops with milk, and sprinkle sugar over them. Bake on buttered
tins in a quick oven.

CAKES. 28 r

CRISP COOKIES. (Very Nice.)
One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three eggs well-beaten, a teaspoonful
of soda and two of cream tartar, spoonful of milk, one teaspoonful of nutmeg,
and one of cinnamon. Hour enough to make a soft dough just stiff enough to
roll out. Try a pint of sifted flour to begin with, working it in gradually.
Spread a little sweet milk over each, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake in a quick
oven a light brown.

LEMON COOKIES,

Pour cups of sifted flour, or enough for a stiff dough; one teacupful of butter,
two cups of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and the grated peel from the outside,
three eggs, whipped very light. Beat thoroughly each ingredient, adding after
all is in a half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a tablespoonf ul of miUr . Boll
out as any cookies, and bake a light brown. Use no other wetting.

COCOANUT COOKIES.

One cup grated cocoanut, one and one-half cups sugar, three-fourths cu]^
butter, one-half cup milk, two eggs, one large teaspoonful baking-powder, one-
half teaspoonful extract of vaniUa, and floiu* enough to roll out.

DOUGHNUTS OR FRIED CAKES.

Success in making good fried cakes depends as much on the cooking as the
mixing. In the first place, there should be boiling lard enough to free them
from the bottom of the kettle, so that they swim on the top, and the lard should
never be so hot as to smoke or so cool as not to be at the boiling point; if it is,
they soak grease, and are spoiled. If it is at the right heat, the doughnuts will
in about ten minutes be of a delicate brown outside and nicely cooked inside.
Five or six minutes will cook a cruller. Try the fat by dropping a bit of the
dough in first; if it is right, the fat will boil up when it is dropped in. They
should be turned over almost constantly, which causes them to rise and brown
evenly. When they are sufficiently cooked, raise them from the hot fat, and
drain them until every drop ceases dripping.

CRULLERS OR FRIED CAKES.

One and a half cupfxils of sugar, one cupful of sour milk, two ^gs, twa
scant tablespoonfuls of melted butter, half a nutmeg grated, a large teaspoonful
of cinnamon, a teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda; make a little stiffer than
biscuit dough, roll out a quarter of an inch thick, and cut with a fried-cake
cutter, with a hole in the centre. Fry in hot lard.

282 CAKES.

These can be made with sweet milk and baldng-powder, using two heaping
teaspoonfuls of the baMng-powder in place of soda.

RAISED DOUGHNUTS-
Old-fashioned '^raised doughnuts/' are seldom seen, now-a-days, but are
easily made. Make a sponge as for bread, using a pint of warm water or tYiillr,
and alarge half cupful of yeast; when the sponge is very light, add half acupful
of butter or sweet lard, a coffee-cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt and one
small teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a Uttle water, one tablespoonful of cinna-
mon, a Uttle grated nutm^; stir in now two well-beaten ^gs, add sifted flour
tmtil it is the consistency of biscuit-dough, knead it well, cover and let rise; then
roll the dough out into a sheet half an inch thick, cut out with a very small
biscuit-cutter, or in strips half an inch wide and three inches long, place them
on greased tins, cover them well, and let them rise before fr3ring them. Drop
them in very hot lard. Eaised cakes require longer time than cakes made with
baking-powder. Sift powdered sugar over them as fast as they are fried, while
warm. Our grandmothers put allspice into these cakes; that, however, is a
matter of taste.

BAKERS' RAISED DOUGHNUTS.

Warm a teacupful of lard in a pint of milk; when nearly cool, add enough
flour to make a thick batter, and add a small cupful of yeast; beat it well, and
set it to rise; when light, work in gradually and carefully three cupfuls of sugar,
the whipped whites of six eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoon-
ful of milk; one teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, and half
of a nutm^ grated; then work in gradually enough floin: to make it stiff enough to
roll out; let it rise again, and when very Ught, roll it out in a sheet an inch thick;
cut into rounds; put into the centre of each roimd a large iSultana raisin, seeded,
and mold into perfectly roimd balls ; flatten a little; let them stand a few minutes
before boiling them; have plenty of lard in the pot, and when it boils drop in the
cakes; when they are a light brown, take them out with a perforated skimmer;
drain on soft white paper, and roll, while warm, in fine powdered sugar.

— PurselVs Bakery, New York City.

CRULLERS OR WONDERS.

Three ^ggs, three tablespoonfuls of melted lard or butter, three tablespoon-
fuls of sugar, mix very hard with sifted flour, as hard as can be rolled, and to
be rolled very tlun like pie-crust; cut in squares three inches long and two wide,
then cut several slits or lines lengthwise, to within a quarter of an inch of the

CAKES. 283

^ges of the ends; run your two forefingers through every other slit; lay them
down on the hoard edgewise, and dent them. These are very dainty when fried.
Fry in hot lard a light brown.

GERMAN DOUGHNUTS.

One pint of milk, four eggs, one smaU tablespoonful of melted butter, flavor-
ing, salt to taste; first boil the milk and pour it, while hot, over a pint of flour;
beat it very smooth, and when it is cool, have ready the yolks of the eggs weU-
beaten; add them to the milk and flour, beaten well into it, then add the
well-beaten whites, then lastly add the salt and as much more flour as will make
the whole into a soft dough; flour your board, turn your dough upon it, roll it
in pieces as thick as your finger and turn them in the form of a ring; cook in
plenty of boiling lard. A nice breakfast cake with coffee.

NUT CAKES (Fried.)

Beat two eggs well, add to them one ounce of sifted sugar, two ounces of
warmed butter, two tablespoonfuls of yeast, a teacupful of luke-warm milk and
a little salt. Whip all well together, then stir in by degrees one pound of flour,
and, if requisite, more milk, making thin dough. Beat it imtil it falls from
the spoon, then set it to rise. When it has risen, make butter or lard hot in a
frying-pan; cut from the light dough httle pieces the size of a walnut, and with-
out molding or kneading, fry them pale brown. As they are done, lay them
on a napkin to absorb any of the fat.

Work one egg and a tablespoonful of sugar to as much flour as will make a
stiff paste; roll it as thin as a dollar piece, and cut it into small round or square
cakes; drop two or three at a time into the boiling lard; when they rise to the
surface and turn over they are done; take them out with a skimmer and lay
them on an inverted sieve to drain. When served for dessert or supper, put a
spoonful of jelly on each.

PUFF-BALL DOUGHNUTS.

These doughnuts, eaten fresh and warm, are a delicious breakfast dish, and
are quickly made. Three eggs, one cupful of sugar, a pint of sweet milk, salt,
nutmeg, and flour enough to permit the spoon to stand upright in the mixture;
add two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to the flour; beat all until very
h'ght. Drop by the dessertspoonful into boiling lard. These will not absorb a
bit of fat, and are not at all rich, and consequently are the least injurious of this
kind of cakea

GENERAL REMARKS.

Use the very best materials in making pastry; the shortening should be firesh,
sweet, and hard; the water cold (ice water is best), the paste rolled on a cold
board, and all handled as little as possible.

When the crust is made, it makes it much more flakey and puff much more
to put it in a dish covered with a doth, and set in a very cold place for half an
hour, or even an hour; in summer, it could be placed in the ice box.

A great improvement is made in pie-crust by the addition of about a heaping
teaspoonful of baking-powder to a quart of flour, also brushing the paste as often
as rolled out, and the pieces of butter placed thereon, with the white of an egg,
assists it to rise in leaves or flakes. As this is the great beauty of puff-paste, it
is as well to try this method.

If currants are to be used in pies, they should be carefully picked over, and
washed in several waters, dried in a towel, and dredged with flour before they
are suitable for use.

Baisins, and all dried fruits for pies and cakes, should be seeded, stoned, and
dredged with flour, before using.

Almonds should be blanched by pouring boiling water upon them, and then
slipping the skin off with the fingers. In pounding them, always add a little
rose or orange water, with fine sugar, to prevent their becoming oily.

Great care is requisite in heating an oven for baking pastry. If you can
hold your hand in the heated oven while you count twenty, the oven has just
the proper temperature, and it should be kept at this temperature as long as the
pastry is in; this heat will bake to a light brown, and will give the pastry a
fresh and flakey appearance. If you suffer the heat to abate, the under crusi;
will become heavy and clammy, and the upper crust will fall in.

PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 285

Another good way to ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree
for pnff. paste: put a small piece of the paste in previous to bakiog the whole,
and then the heat can thus be judged of.

Pie-crust can be kept a week, and the last be better than the first, if put in a
tightly covered dish, and set in the ice-chest in summer, and in a cool place in
winter, and thus you can make a fresh pie every day with little trouble.

In baking custard, pumpkin or squash pies, it is well, in order that the mix-
ture may not be absorbed by the paste, to first partly bake the paste before add-
ing it, and when stewed fruit is used the filling should be perfectly cool when
put in, or it will make the bottom crust sodden.

HOW TO MAKE A PIE.

After making the crust, take a portion of it, roll it out and fit it to a buttered
pio-plate by cutting it oflf evenly around the edge; gather up the scraps left from
cutting and make into another sheet for the top crust; roll it a little thinner than
the under crust; lap one half over the other and cut three or four slits about a
quarter of an inch from the folded edge, (this prevents the steam from escaping
through the rim of the pie, and causing the juices to run out from the edges).
Now fill your pie-plate with your prepared filling, wet the top edge of the rim,
lay the upper crust across the centre of the pie, turn back the half that is lapped
over, seal the two edges together by slightly pressing down with your thumb,,
then notch evenly and regularly with a three-tined fork, dipping occasionally in
flour to prevent sticking. Bake in a rather quick oven a light brown, and until
the filling boils up through the shts in the upper crust.

To prevent the juice soaking through into the crust, making it soggy, wet.
the under crust with the white of an egg, just before you put in the pie mixture*
If the top of the pie is brushed over with the egg, it gives it a beautiful glaze.

FOR ICING PASTRY.

To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit tarts and sweet
dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate, and with the blade of a
knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearly baked, brush it over
with this, and sift over some pounded sugar; put it back into the oven to set the
glaze, and in a few minutes it wiU be done. Great care should be taken that
the paste does not catch or bum in the oven, which it is very hable to do after
the icing is laid on.

Or make a meringue by adding a tablespoonful of white sugar to the beates
white of one egg. Spread over the top, and slightly brown in the oven.

286 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS.

FINE PUFF-PASTE-

Into one quart of sifted flour, mix two teaspoonfols of baking-powd w, and
a teaspoonful of salt; ihen sift again. Measure out one teacupful of butter
and one of lard, hard and cold. Take the lard and rub into the flour untQ a very
fine, smooth paste. Then put in just enough ice-water , say half a cupful, con-
taining a beaten white of ^g, to mW a very stiff dough. Boll it out into a
thin sheet, fifpread with one-fourth of the butter, sprinkle over with a little flour,
then roll up closely in a long roll, like a scroll, double the ends towards the
centre, flatten and reroll, then spread again with another quarter of the butter.
Bepeat this operation until the butter is used up. Put it on an earthen dish,
cover it with a doth and set it in a cold place, in the ice-box in summer; let it
remain until cold; an hour or more before making out the crust. Tarts made
with this paste cannot be cut with a knife when fresh; they go into flakes at the
touch.

Tbu may roll this pastry in any direction, from you, towards you, sideways,
anyway, it matters not, but you must have nice flour, ice-vnUer, and very little
of it, and strength to roll it, if you would succeed.

This recipe I purchased from a colored cook on one of the Lake Michigan
steamers many years ago, and it is, without exception, the finest puff-paste I
have ever seen«

PUFF-PASTE FOR PIES.

One quart of pastry flom:, one pint of butter, one tablespoonful of salt, one
of sugar, one and a quarter cupfuls of ice-water. Wash the hands with soap
and water, and dip them first in very hot, and then in cold water. Binse a large
bowl or pan with boiling water, and then with cold. Half fill it with cold water.
Wash the butter in this, working it with the hands until it is light and waxy.
This frees it from the salt and buttermilk, and lightens it, so that the pastry is
more delicate. Shape the butter into two thin cakes, and put in a pan of ice-
water to harden. Mix the salt and sugar with the flour. With the hands, rub
one-third of the butter into the flour. Add the water, stirring with a knife.
Stir quickly and vigorously, imtil the paste is a smooth ball. Sprinkle the board
lightly with flour. Turn the paste on this and pound quickly and lightly with
the rolling-pin. Do not break the paste. Boll from you, and to one side; or, if
easier to roll from you all the time, ixxm the paste around. When it is about
one-fourth of an inch thick, wipe the remaining butter, break it in bits, and
spread these on the paste. Sprinkle lightly with flour. Fold the paste, one-
third from each side, so that the edges meet. Now fold from the ends, but do

PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 287

not have these meet. Double the paste, pound lightly, and roll down to about
one-third of an inch in thickness. Fold as before, and roll down again. Bepeat
this three times, if for pies, and six times if for vol-au-vents, patties, tarts, etc.
Place on the ice, to harden, when it has been rolled the last time. It should be
in the ice-chest at least an hour before being used. In hot weather, if the paste
sticks when being rolled down, put it on a tin sheet, and place on ice. As soon
as it is chilled, it will roll easily. The less flour you use in rolling out the paste,
the tenderer it wiU be. No matter how carefully every part of the work may
be done, the paste will not be good if much flour is used.

— Maria Parloa.

SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PUFF-PASTE.

To every pound of flour allow the yolk of one egg, the juice of one lemon,
half a saltspoonful of salt, cold water, one pound of fresh butter.

Put the flour on to the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which
put the yolk of the egg, the lemon- juice, and salt; mix the whole with cold
water (this should be iced in summer, if convenient) into a soft, flexible paste
with the right hand, and handle it as Uttle as possible; then squeeze all the
buttermilk from the butter, wring it in a cloth, and roll out the paste; place the
butter on this, and fold the edges of the paste over, so as to hide it; roll it out
again to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; fold over one-third, over which
again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a
square; place it with the ends, top, and bottom before you, shaking a little flour
both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again, as before.
Flour a baking sheet, put the paste on this, and let it remain on ice or in some
cool place for half an hour; then roU twice more, timnng it as before; place it
again upon the ice for a quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven
in all, and it is ready for use when required.

RULE FOR UNDER CRUST.

A good rule for pie-crust for a pie requiring only an under crust, — ^as a custard
or pumpkin pie, — is: Three large tablespoonfuls of flour sifted; rubbing into it a
large tablespoonf ul of cold butter, or part butter and part lard, and a pinch of
salt, mixing with cold water enough to form a smooth, stiff paste, and rolled
quite thin.

PLAIN PIE-CRUST.

Two and a half cupfuls of sifted flour, one cupful of shortening, haJf butter
and half lard, cold; a pinch of salt, a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder.

28« PASTRY^ PIES AND TARTS.

sifted through the flour. Rub thoroughly the shortening into the flour. Mix
together with half a teacupful of cold water, or enough to form a rather stiff
dough; mix as little as possible, just enough to get it into shape to roll out; it
must be handled very lightly. This rule is for two pies.

When you have a Uttle pie-crust left, do not throw it away; roll it thin, cut
it in small squares and bake. Just before tea, put a spoonful of raspberry jelly
on each square.

PUFF-PASTE OF SUET.

Two cupfuls of flom*, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking-
powder, one cup of chopped suet, freed of skin, and chopped very fine, one cup-
ful of water. Place the flour, sifted with the powder, in a bowl, add suet and
water; mix into smooth, rather firm dough.

This paste is excellent for fruit puddings, and dimipUngs that are boiled; if it
is well made, it will be light and flaky, and the suet imperceptible. It is also
excellent for meat pies, baked or boiled. All the ingredients should be very cold
when mixing, and the suet dredged with flour after it is chopped, to prevent the
partides from adhering to each other.

POTATO CRUST.

Boil and mash a dozen medium-sized potatoes, add one good teaspoonful of
salt, two tablespoonfuls of cold butter, and half a cupful of milk or cream.
Stiffen with flour sufficient to roll out. Nice for the tops of meat pies.

TO MAKE PIE-CRUST FLAKY
In Tnfl.TriTig a pie, after you have rolled out your top crust, cut it about the
right size, spread it over with butter, then shake sifted flour over the butter,
enough to cover it well. Out a slit in the middle, place it over the top of your
pie, and fasten the edges as any pie. Now take the pie on your left hand, and a
dipper of cold water in your right hand; tip the pie slanting a little, pour over
the water sufficiently to rinse off the flour. Enough flour wiU stick to the
butter to fry into the crust, to give it a flne, blistered, flaky look, which many
cooks think is much better than rolling the butter into the crust.

TARTLETS.

Tarts of strawberry or any other kind of preserves are generally made of the

trunmings of puff-paste rolled a httle thicker than for ordinary pies; then cut

out with a round cutter, first dipped in hot water, to make the edges smooth,

and placed in small tart-pans, first pricking a few holes at the bottom with a

PASTRYy PIES AND TARTS. 289

fork before placing them in the oven. Bake from ten to fifteen minutes. Let
the paste cool a little; then fill it with preserve. By this manner, both the
flavor and color of the jam are preserved, which would be lost were it baked in
the oven on the paste; and, besides, so much jam is not required

PATTIES, OR SHELLS FOR TARTS.

Boll out a nice puif -paste thin; cut out with a glass or cookey-cutter, and vdth
a wine-glass or smaller cutter, cut out the centre of two out of three; lay the
rings thus made on the third, and bake at once. May be used for veal or oyster
patties, or filled with jelly, jam or preserves, as tarts. Or shells may be made
by lining patty -pans with paste. If the paste is light, the shells will be fine.
Filled with jelly and covered with meringue (tablespoonful of sugar to the white
of one e^), and browned in oven, they are very nice to serve for tea.

If the cutters are dipped in hot watery the edges of the tartlets will rise much
higher and smoother when baking.

TARTLETS.

Tartlets are nice made in this manner: Boll some good puff-paste out thin,
and cut it into two and a half inch squares; brush each square over with the
white of an egg, then fold down the comers, so that they all meet in the middle
of each piece of paste; shghtly press the two pieces together, brush them over
with the egg, sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about a quarter
of an hour. When they are done, make a Uttle hole in the middle of the paste,
and fill it up vsrith apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile them high
in the centre of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish with the same preserve the
tartlets are filled with.

TARTS.

Larger pans are required for tarts proper, the size of small, shallow pie- tins;
ihen after the paste is baked and cooled and filled with the jam or preserve, a
few stars or leaves are placed on the top, or strips of paste, criss-crossed on the
top, all of which have been previously baked on a tin by themselves.

Dried fruit, stewed until thick, makes fine tart pies, also cranberries, stewed
and well sweetened.

GREEN APPLE PIE.

Peel, core and slice tart apples enough for a pie; sprinkle over about three
tablespoonfuls of sugar, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a small level tablespoonful
of sifted fiour, two tablespoonfuls of water, a few bits of butter; stir all together

290 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS.

with a spoon; put it into a pie-tin lined with pie-paste; cover with a top crust
and bake about forty minutes.

The result will be a delicious, juicy pie,

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. i.

Three cupfuls of milk, four eggs, and one cupful of sugar, two cupfuls of
thick stewed apples, strained through a colander. Beat the whites and yolks of
the eggs lightly, and mix the yolks well with the apples, flavoring with nutmeg.
Then beat into this the milk, and lastly the whites. Let the crust i)artly bake
before turning in this filling. To be baked with only the one crust, like 411
custard pies.

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. 2.

Select fair sweet apples, pare and grate them, and to every teacupful of the
apple add two eggs well beaten, two tablespoonfuls of fine sugar, one of melted
butter, the grated rind and half the juice of one lemon, half a wine-glass of
brandy, and one teacupful of milk; mix all weU, and pour into a deep plate lined
with paste; put a strip of the paste aroimd the edge of the dish and bake thirty
minutes.

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. 3.

Lay a crust in your plates; slice apples thin, and half fill your plates; pour
over them a custard made of four eggs and one quart of milk, sweetened and sea-
soned to your taste.

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. 4.

Peel sour apples and stew until soft, and not much water left in them; then
rub through a colander; beat three eggs for each pie to be baked, and put in at
the rate of one cupful of butter and one of sugar for three pies; season with
nutmeg.

IRISH APPLE PIE.

Pare and take out the cores of the apples, cutting each apple into four or
eight pieces, according to their size. Lay them neatly in a baking dish, season-
ing them with brown sugar, and any spice, such as pounded cloves and cinna-
mon, or grated lemon-peel. A Uttle quince marmalade gives a fine flavor to the
pie. Add a little water, and cover with puff-paste. Bake for an hour.

MOCK APPLE PIE.

Crush finely, with a rolling-pin, one large Boston cracker; put it into a bowl,
and pour upon it one teacupful of cold water; add one teacupful of fine white

PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 29 r

sugar, the juice and pulp of one lemon, half a lemon-rind grated, and a little
nutmeg; line the pie-plate with half puff-paste, pour in the mixture, cover with
the paste, and bake half an hour.
These are proportions for one pie.

APPLE AND PEACH MERIN«UE PIE.
Stew the apples or peaches and sweeten to taste. Mash smootn and season
with nutmeg. Fill the crusts and bake until just done. Put on no top crust.
Take the whites of three eggs for each pie, and whip to a stiff froth, and sweeten
with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Flavor with rose-water or vanilla;
beat until it will stand alone; then spread it on the pie one-half to one inch thick;,
set it back into the oven until the meringue is well ^^ set." Eat cold.

COCOANUT PIE. No. i.

One-half cup dessicated cocoanut, soaked in one cupful of milk, two eggs,
one smaU cupful of sugar, butter the size of an egg. This is for one small-sized
pie. Nice with a meringue on top. '

COCOANUT PIE. No. 2.

Cut off the brown part of the cocoanut, grate the white part, mix it with
milk, and set it on the fire and let it boil slov, I7 eight or ten minutes^ To a
poimd of the grated cocoanut, allow a quart of milk, eight eggs, four table-
spoonfuls of sifted white sugar, a glass of wine, a small cracker, pounded fine,
two spoonfuls of melted butter, and half a nutmeg. The eggs and sugar should
be beaten together to a froth, then the wine stirred in. Put them into the milk
and cocoanut, which should be first allowed to get quite cool; add the cracker
and nutmeg, tmn the whole into deep pie-plates, with a lining and rim of puff-
paste. Bake them as soon as turned into the plates.

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD PIE. No. i.

One quarter cake of Baker's chocolate, grated; one pint of boilmg water, six
eggs, one quart of milk, one-half cupful of white sugar, two teaspoonfuls of
vaniHa. Dissolve the chocolate in a very little milk, stir into the boiling water,
and boil three minutes. When nearly cold, beat up with this the yolks of all
the eggs and the whites of three. Stir this mixture into the milk, season and
pour into shells of good paste. When the custard is ** set " — but not more than
half done — spread over it the whites whipped to a froth, with two tablespoonf ula
of sugar. You may bake these custards without i)aste, in a pudding-dish or
cups set in boiling water

2g2 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS.

CHOCOLATE PIE. No. z.

Pat some grated chocolate into a basin and place on the back of the stove and
Jet it melt (do not add any water to it); beat one egg and some sugar in it; when
melted; spread this on the top of a custard pie. Lovers of chocolate will like this.

LEMON PIE. (Superior.)

Take a deep dish, grate into it the outside of the rind of two lemons; add to

iliat a cup and a half of white sugar, two heaping tablespoonfuls of unsifted

flour, or one of corn-starch; stir it well together, then add the yolks of three

well-beaten e^s, beat this thoroughly, then add the juice of the lemons, two cups

of water, and a piece of butter the size of a wahiut. Set this on the fire in

another dish containing boiling water and cook it until it thickens, and will dip

np on the spoon like cold honey. Bemove it from the fire, and when cooled,

pour it into a deep pie-tin, lined with pastry; bake, and when done, have ready

the whites, beaten stiff, with three small tablespoonfuls of sugar. Spread this

•over the top and return to the oven to set and brown slightly. This makes a

♦deep, large-sized pie, and very superior.

— JSbbiU Bouse, Washington.

LEMON PIE. No. 2.

One coffee-cupful of sugar, three eggs, one cupful of water, one tablespoonful
of melted butter, one heaping tablespoonful of flour, the juice and a httle of
"the rind of one lemon. Beserve the whites of the eggs, and after the pie is
baked, spread them over the top, beaten lightly, with a spoonful of sugar, and
return to the oven until it is a light brown.

This may be cooked before it is put into the crust or not, but is rather better
io cook it first in a double boiler or dish. It makes a medium-sized pie. Bake
from thirty-five to forty minutes.

LEMON PIE. No. 3-

Moisten a heaping tablespoonful of corn-starch with a httle cold water, then
4uld a cupful of boiling water; stir over the fire till it boils and cook the corn-
starch, say two or three minutes; add a teaspoonful of butter, and a cupful of
sugar; take off the fire, and when shghtly cooled, add an ^g well beaten, and
the juice and grated rind of a fresh lemon. Bake with a crust. This makes one
small pie.

LEMON PIE. No. 4.

Two large, fresh lemons, grate off the rind, if not bitter reserve it for the
fllling of the pie; pare off every bit of the white skin of the lemon, (as it toughens

PALTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 293

^hile cooking); then cut the lemon into very thin slices with a sharp knife, and

take out the seeds; two cupfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of water, and two

of sifted flour. Put into the pie a layer of lemon, then one of sugar, then one

of the grated rind, and, lastly, of flour, and so on till the ingredients are used;

sprinkle the water over all, and cover with upper crust. Be sure to have the

under crust lap over the upper, and pinch it well, as the syrup will cook all out

if care is not taken when finishing the edge of crust. This quantity makes one

medium-sized pie.

ORANGE PIE.

Grate the rind of one and use the juice of two large oranges. Stir together a
large cupful of sugar and a heaping tablespoonful of flour; add to this the well-
beaten yolks of three eggs, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Eeserve the
whites for frosting. Turn this into a pie-pan lined with pie-paste, and bake in a
quick oven. When done so as to resemble a finely baked custard, spread on the
top of it the beaten whites, which must be sweetened with two tablespoonfuls
of sugar; spread evenly, and return to the oven and brown slightly.

The addition of the juice of half a lemon improves it, if convenient to have it.

BAKERS' CUSTARD PIE.

Beat up the yolks of three eggs to a cream. Stir thoroughly a tablespoonful
of sifted flour into three tablespoonfuls of sugar; this separates the particles of
flour so that there will be no lumps; then add it to the beaten yolks, put in a
pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and a little grated nutmeg; next the
well-beaten whites of the eggs; and lastly, a pint of scalded milk (not boiled)
which has been cooled; mix this in by degrees, and turn all into a deep pie-pan,
lined with puff-paste, and bake from twenty-five to thirty minutes.

I received this recipe from a celebrated cook in one of our best New York
bakeries. I inquired of him " why it was that their custard pies had that look
of solidity and smoothness that our home-made pies have not.'' He replied,
" The secret is the addition of this hit of flour — not that it thickens the custard
any to speak of, but prevents the custard from breaking or wheying, and gives
that smooth appearance when cut."

CREAM PIE.

Pour a pint of cream upon one and a half cupfuls of sugar; let it stand until
the whites of three eggs have been beaten to a stiff froth; add this to the cream,
and beat up thoroughly; grate a httle nutmeg over the mixture, and bake with-
out an upper crust. If a tablespoonful of sifted flour is added to it, as the above
Custard Pie recipe, it would improve it.

294 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS.

WHIPPED CREAM PIE.
Line a pie-plate with a rich crust, and bake quickly in a hot oven. When
done, spread with a thin layer of jelly or jam, then whip one cupful of thick
sweet cream until it is as light as possible; sweeten with powdered sugar and
flavor with vanilla; spread over the jelly or jam; set the cream where it will get
very cold before whipping.

CUSTARD PIE.

Beat together until very light the yolks of four eggs and four tablespoonf uls
of sugar, flavor with nutmeg or vanilla; then add the foin* beaten whites, a pinch
of salt and, lastly, a quart of sweet milk; mix well and pour into tins lined with
paste. Bake until firm.

BOSTON CREAM PIE.

Cream part. — ^Put on a pint of milk to boil. Break two eggs into a dish, and
add one cup of sugar and half a cup of flour previously mixed; after beating
well, stir it into the milk just as the milk commences to boil; add an ounce of
butter and keep on stirring one way imtil it thickens; flavor with vanilla or
lemon.

. Orustpart — Three eggs, beaten separately, one cup of granulated sugar, one
and a half cups of sifted flour, one large teaspoonful of baking-powder, and two
tablespoonf uls of milk or water. Divide the batter in half and bake on two
medium-sized pie-tins. Bake in a rather quick oven to a straw color. When
done and cool, split each one in half vdth a sharp broad-bladed knife, and spread
half the cream between each. Serve cold.

The cake part should be flavored the same as the custard.

MOCK CREAM PIE.

Take three eggs, one pint of milk, a cupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
corn-starch, or three of flour; beat the sugar, corn-starch, and yolks of the e^s
together; after the milk has come to a boil, stir in the mixtiu*e, and add a pinch
of salt and about a teaspoonful of butter. Make crust the same as any pie;
bake, then fill with the custard, grate over a Httle nutmeg and bake again.
Take the whites of the eggs and beat to a' stifi froth with two tablespoonfuls of
sugar, spread over the top and brown in a quick oven.

FRUIT CUSTARD PIE.

Any fruit custard, such as pineapple, banana, can be readily made after the
recipe of "Apple Custard Pie.'*

PASTRY^ PIES AND TARTS. 295

CHERRY PIE,

Lme your pie-plate with good crust, fill half full with ripe cherries; sprinkle
over them about a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of sifted flour, dot a few bits
of butter over that. Now fill the crust full to the top. Cover with the upper
crust, and bake.

This is one of the best of pies, if made correctly, and the cherries in any case
should be stoned.

CURRANT PIE. No. i.

Make in just the same way as the Cherry Pie, imless they are somewhat
green, then they should be stewed a little

RIPE CURRANT PIE. No. 2.

One cupf til of mashed ripe currants, one of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
water, one of flour, beaten with the yolks of two eggs. Bake; frost the top
with the beaten whites of the eggs and two tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, and
brown in oven.

GREEN TOMATO PIE.

Take medium-sized tomatoes, pare, and cut out the stem end. Having your
pie-pan Uned with paste made as biscuit dough, sUce the tomatoes very thin,
filling the pan somewhat heaping, then grate over it a nutmeg, put in half a cup
of butter, and a medium cup of sugar, if the pan is rather deep. Sprinkle a
small handful of flour over all, pouring in half a cup of vinegar before adding
the top crust. Bake half an hour, in a moderately hot oven, serving hot. Is
good; try it.

APRICOT MERINGUE PIE.

A canned apricot meringue pie is made by cutting the apricots fine and mix-
ing them with a half cup of sugar and the beaten yolk of an egg; fill the crust
and bake. Take from the oven, let it stand for two or three minutes, cover
with a meringue made of the beaten white of an e^ and one tablespoonf ul of
sugar. Set back in a slow oven until it turns a golden brown. The above pie
can be made into a tart without the addition of the meringue by adding criss-
cross strips of pastry when the pie is first put into the oven.

All of the above are good if made from the dried aud stewed apricots instead
of the caimed, and are much cheaper.

•Stewed dried apricots are a deUcious addition to mince-meat. They may be
use in connection with minced apples, or to the exclusion of the latter.

296 PASTRY, FIES AND TARTS.

HUCKLEBERRY PIE.

Pat a quart of picked huckleberries into a basin of water; take off whatever
floats; take up the berries by the handful, pick out all the stems and unripe
berries> and put them into a dish; line a buttered pie-dish with a pie-paste, put in
the berries half an inch deep, and to a quart of berries, put half of a teacupful of
brown sugar; dredge a teaspoonful of flour over, strew a saltspoonful of salt, and
a little nutm^ grated over; cover the pie, cut a sht in the centre, or make several
small incisions on either side of it; press the two crusts together around the edge^
trim it off neatly with a sharp knife, and bake in a quick oven for thre-equarters
of an hour.

BLACKBERRY PIE.

Pick the berries dean, rinse them in cold water, and finish as directed for
huckleberries.

MOLASSES PIE.

Two teacupfuls of molasses, one of sugar, three eggs, one tablespoonful of
melted butter, one lemon, nutmeg; beat and bake in pastry.

LEMON RAISIN PIE.

One cup of chopped raisins, seeded, the juice and grated rind of one lemon,
one cupful of cold water, one tablespoonful of flour, one cupful of sugar, two
tablespoonfuls of butter. Stir lightly together and bake with upper and under
crust.

RHUBARB PIE.

Cut the large stalks off where the leaves commence, strip off the outside
skin, then cut the stalks in pieces half an inch long; line a pie-dish with paste
roUed rather thicker than a doUar piece, put a layer of the rhubarb nearly an inch
deep; to a quart bowl of cut rhubarb put a laige teacupful of sugar; strew it over
with a saltspoonful of salt and a little nutm^ grated; shake over a little flour;
cover with a rich pie-crust, cut a slit in the centre, trim off the edge with a sharp
knife, and bake in a quick oven until the pie loosens from the dish. Rhubarb
pies made in this way are altogether superior to those made of the fruit stewed.

RHUBARB PIE, COOKED.

Skin the stalks, cut them into small pieces, wash, and put them in a stew-pan
with no more water than what adheres to them; when cooked, mash them fine^
and put in a small piece of butter; when cool, sweeten to taste; if hked add a
little lemon-peel, cinnamon or nutm^; line your plate with thin crust, put in

PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 297-

the filling, cover with crust, and bake in a qaick oven; sift sugar over it when
served.

PINEAPPLE PIE.

A grated pineapple; its we^ht in sugar; half its weight in butter; one cupful
of cream; five eggs; beat the butter to a creamy froth; add the sugar and yolks
of the eggs; continue beating till very light; add the cream, the pineapple grated,
and the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake with an under crust..
Eat cold.

GRAPE PIE.

Pop the pulps out of the skins into one dish, and put the skins into another..
Then simmer the pulp a little over the fire to soften it; remove it and rub it
through a colander to separate it from the seeds. Then put the skins and pulp
together, and they are ready for pies or for canning or putting in jugs fw
further use. Fine for pies.

DAMSON OR PLUM PIE.

Stew the damsons whole in water only suflBcient to prevent their biu-ning;
when tender, and while hot, sweeten them with sugar, and let them stand until
they become cold; then pour them into pie-dishes lined with paste, dredge floin:
upon them, cover them with the same paste, wet and pinch together the edges
of the paste, cut a sUt in the centre of the cover through which the vapor may
escape, and bake twenty minutes.

PEACH PIE.

Peel, stone, and slice the peaches. line a pie-plate with crust, and lay in:
your fruit, sprinkling sugar liberally over them in proportion to their sweetness.
Allow three peach kernels, chopped fine, to each pie; pour in a very Httle water,
and bake with an upper crust, or with cross-bars of paste across the top.

DRIED FRUIT PIES.

Wash the fruit thoroughly, soak over night in water enough to cover. In
the morning, stew slowly, until nearly done, in the same water. Sweeten to-
taste. The crust, both upper and under, should be rolled thin; a thick crust ta
a fruit pie is undesu-able.

RIPE BERRY PIES.
All made the same as Cherry Pie. Line your pie-tin with crust, fill half
full of berries, shake over a tablespoonful of sifted flour, (if very juicy), and as

:298 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS.

much sugar as is necessary to sweeten sufficiently. Now fill up the crtist to the
top, m5t1ring quite fiilL Cover with crust, and bake about forty minutes.

Huckleberry and blackberry pies are improved by putting into them a little
.ginger and cinnamon.

JELLY AND PRESERVED FRUIT PIES.

Preserved fruit requires no baking; hence, always bake the sheU, and put in
the sweetmeats afterwards; you can cover with whipped cream, or bake a top
•crust shell; the former is preferable for deUcacy.

CRANBERRY PIE.

Take fine, sound, ripe crauberries, and with a sharp knife spUt each one

imtil you have a heaping coffee-cupful; put them in a v^etablo dish or basin;

put over them one cup of white sugar, half a cup of water, a tablespoon fvU of

sifted flour; stir it aU together and put into your crust. Cover with an upper

crust and bake slowly in a moderate oven. You wiU find this the true way of

making a cranberry pie.

— Newport style.

CRANBERRY TART PIE.

After having washed and picked over the berries, stew them well in a little
water, just enough to cover them; when they burst open, and become soft,
Bweeten them with plenty of sugar, mash them smooth (some prefer them not
mashed); line your pie-plates with thin puff paste, fill them, and lay strips of
paste across the top. Bake in a moderate oven. Or you may rub them through
a colander to free them from the skins.

GOOSEBERRY PIE.

Can be made the same as Cranberry Tart Pie, or an upper crust can be
put on before baking. Serve with boiled custard, or a pitcher of good, sweet
•cream.

STEWED PUMPKIN OR SQUASH FOR PIES.

Deep-colored pumpkins are generally the best. Cut a pumpkin or squash in
lialf , take out the seeds, then cut it up in thick slices, pare the outside and cut
again in small pieces. Put it into a large pot or sauce-pan, with a very little
water; let it cook slowly until tender. Now set the pot on the back of the stove,
where it will not bum, and cook slowly, stirring often until the moisture is
<lried out and the pimipkin looks dark and red. It requires cooking a long time,
dt least half a day, to have it dry and rich. When cool, press through a colander.

PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 299

BAKED PUMPKIN OR SQUASH FOR PIES.
Cut up in several pieces, do not pare it; place them on baking- tins and set
them in the oven; bake slowly until soft, then take them out, scrape all the
pumpkin from the shell, rub it through a colander. It will be fine and light
and free from lumps.

PUMPKIN PIE. No. I.

For three pies: One quart of milk, three cupfuls of boiled and strained
pumpkin, one and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of molasses, the
yolks and whites of four eggs beaten separately, a Uttle salt, one tablespoonf ul
each of ginger and cinnamon. Beat all together and bake with an under crust.

Boston marrow or Hubbard squash may be substituted for pumpkin, and are
much preferred by many, as possessing a less strong flavor.

PUMPKIN PIE. No. 2.

One quart of stewed pumpkin, pressed through a sieve; nine eggs, whites
and yolks beaten separately; two scant quarts of milk, one teaspoonful of mace,
one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and the same of nutmeg; one and one-half cupfuls
of white sugar, or very light brown. Beat all well together, and bake in crust
without cover.

A tablespoonful of brandy is a great improvement to pimipkin or squash pies.

PUMPKIN PIE, WITHOUT EGGS.

One quart of properly stewed pumpkin, pressed through a colander; to this
add enough good, rich milk, suflScient to moisten it enough to fill two good-sized
earthen pie-plates, a teaspoonful of salt, half a cupful of molasses, or brown
sugar, a tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, or nutmeg. Bake
in a moderately slow oven three-quarters of an hour.

SQUASH PIE.

One pint of boiled dry squash, one cupful of brown sugar, three eggs, two
tablespoonf uls of molasses, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoonful
of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, a pinch of salt, and one pint of milk.
This makes two pies, or one large deep one.

SWEET POTATO PIE.

One pound of steamed sweet potatoes finely mashed, two cups sugar, one cup
cream, one-half cup butter, three well-beaten eggs, flavor with lemon or nutmeg
and bake in pastry shell. Fine.

3«> jPASthy, pies and tarts.

COOKED MEAT FOR MINCE PIES.

la order to succeed in haymg good mince pie, it is quite essential to cook the
meat properly^ so as to retain its jidces and strength of flavor.

Select four pounds of lean beef, the neck piece is as good as any; wash it,
and put it into a kettle with just water enough to cover it; take off the scum
as it reaches the boiling point, add hot water from time to time, until it is
tender, then season with salt and pepper; take off the cover and let it boil until
almost dry, or until the juice has boiled back into the meat. When it looks as
though it was beginning to fry in its own juice, it is time to take up, and set
aside to get cold, which should be done the day before needed. Next day, when
making the mince-meat, the bones, gristle and stringy bits should be well picked
out before chopping.

MINCE PIES. No. z.

The "Astor House," some years ago, wasfanums for its " mince pies.** The
chief pastry cook at that time, by request, published the recipe. I find that
those who partake of it never fail to speak in laudable terms of the supericnr
excellence of this recipe, when strietiy followed.

Four pounds of lean boiled beef, chopped fine, twice as much of chopped green
tart apples, one pound of chopped suet, three poimds of raisins, seeded, two
pounds of currants picked over, washed and dried, half a pound of citron, cut
up fine, one pound of brown sugar, one quart of cooking molasses, two quarts
of sweet cider, one pint of boiled cider, one tablespoonful of salt, one tablespoon-
ful of pepi)er, one tablespoonful of mace, one tablespoonful of allspice, and four
tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two grated nutmegs, one tablespoonful of cloves;
mix thoroughly and warm it on the range, until heated through. Remove from
the fire and when nearly cool, stir in a pint of good brandy, and one pint of
Madeira wine. Put into a crock, cover it tightly, and set it in a cold place
where it will not freeze, but keep perfectly cold. Will keep good all winter.

— Ckef da Cuisine, Asior JBouse, i\r. T.

MINCE PIES. No. 2.

Two pounds of lean fresh beef, boiled, and when cold, chopped fine. One
pound of beef suet, cleared of strings and minced to powder. Five pounds of
apples, pared and chopped; two pounds of raisins, seeded and chopped; one
])Ound of Sultana raisins, washed and picked over. Two i)ounds of currants,
washed and carefidly picked over. Three-quarters of a pound of citron cut up
fine. Two tablespoonfuls cinnamon, one of powdered nutmeg, two of mace^

PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 301

one of cloves, one of allspice, one of fine salt; two and a quarter pounds of brown
sugar, one quart brown sherry, one pint best brandy.

Mince-meat made by this recipe will keep all winter. Cover closely in a jar,

and set in a cool place.

— Common Sense in the Household.

For preserving mince-meat, look for " Canned Mince-Meat."

MOCK MINCE-MEAT, WITHOUT MEAT.

One cupful of cold water, half a cupful of molasses, half a cupful of brown
sugar, half a cupful of dder vinegar, two-thirds of a cupful of melted butter,
one cupful of raisins, seeded and chopped, one egg beaten hght, half a cupful of
rolled cracker-crumbs, a tablespoonful of cinnamon, a teaspoonf ul each of cloves,
allspice, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.

Put the sauce-pan on the fire with the water and raisins; let them cook a
few minutes, then add the sugar and molasses, then the vinegar, then the other
ingredients; lastly, add a wine-glassful of brandy. Very fine.

FRUIT TURNOVER. (Suitable for Picnics.)

Make a nice puff paste; roll it out the usual thickness, as for pies; then cut
it out into circular pieces about the size of a small tea saucer; pile the &uit on
half of the paste, sprinkle over some sugar, wet the edges, and turn the paste
over. Press the edges together, ornament them, and brush the turnovers over
with the white of an egg; sprinkle over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk
oven, for about twenty minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it may be
boiled down with a httle sugar first, and then enclosed in the crust; or jam of
any kind may be substituted for fresh fruit.

PLUM CUSTARD TARTLETS.

One pint of greengage plums, after being rubbed through a sieve; one large
cup of sugar, the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Whisk all together until hght
and foamy; then bake in small patty-pans shells of puff paste, a light brown.
Then fill with the plum paste, beat the two whites until stiff; add two table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, spread over the plum paste and set the shells into
a moderate oven for a few moments.

These are much more easily handled than pieces of pie or even pies whole,
and can be packed nicely for carrying.

LEMON TARTLETS. No. i.
Put a quart of milk into a sauce-pan over the fire. When it comes to the
boiling point, put into it the following mixture: Into a bowl put a heaping table-

302 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS.

spoonful of flour, half a cupful of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Stir this all
together thoroughly; then add the beaten yolks of six eggs; stir this one way
into the boiUng milk, until cooked to a thick cream; remove from the fire, and
stir into it the grated rind and juice of one large lemon. Have ready baked and
hot, some puff -paste tart shells. Fill them with the custard, and cover each
with a meringue, made of the whites of the eggs, sweetened with four table-
spoonfuls of sugar. Put into the oven and bake a light straw-color.

LEMON TARTLETS. No. 2.

Mix well together the juice and grated rind of two lemons, two cupfuls of
sugar, two eggs, and the crumbs of sponge cake; beat it all together until
smooth; put into twelve patty-pans lined with puff -paste and bake until the
crust is done.

ORANGE TARTLETS.

Take the juice of two large oranges, and the grated peel of one, three-fourths
of a cup of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter; stir in a good teaspoonful of corn-
starch into the juice of half a lemon, and add to the mixture. Beat all well
together, and bake in tart shells without cover.

MERINGUE CUSTARD TARTLETS.

Select deep individual pie-tins; fluted tartlet pans are suitable for custard
tarts, but they should be about six inches in diameter and from two to three
inches deep. Butter the pan and line it with ordinary puff-paste, then fill it
with a custard made as follows: Stir gradually into the beaten yolks of six eggs
two tablespoonfuls of flour, a saltspoonful of salt and half a pint of cream. Stir
until free from lumps and add two tablespoonfuls of sugar; put the sauce-pan on
the range and stir until the custard coats the spoon. Do not let it boil or it will
curdle. Pour it in a bowl, add a few drops of vanilla flavoring and stir until the
custard becomes cold; flll the lined mold with this and bake in a moderate
oven. In the meantime, put the white of the eggs in a bright copper vessel and
beat thoroughly, using a baker's wire egg-beater for this purpose. While beat-
ing, sprinkle in lightly half a pound of sugar andadashof salt. When the paste
is quite flrm, spread a thin layer of it over the tart and decorate the top with
the remainder by squeezing it through a paper funnel. Strew a little powdered
sugar over the top, return to the oven, and when a delicate yellow tinge remove
from the Qven, and when cold, serve.

PASTRYy PIES AND TARTS. 303

BERRY TARTS,
line small pie-tins with pie-crust, and bake. Just before ready to use, fill
the tarts with strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, or whatever berries are in
season. Sprinkle over each tart a little sugar; after adding berries add also to
each tart a tablespoonful of sweet cream. They form a delicious addition to the
breakfast table.

CREAM STRAWBERRY TARTS.

After picking over the berries carefully, arrange them in layers in a deep pie-
tin lined with puff -paste, sprinkling sugar thickly between each layer; fill the
pie- tin pretty full, poming in a quantity of the juice; cover with a thick crust,
with a sht in the top, and bake. When the pie is baked^ pour into the sUt in the
top of the pie the following cream mixture: Take a small cupful of the cream
from the top of the morning's milk, heat it until it comes to a boil, then stir into
it the whites of two eggs beaten hght, also a tablespoonful of white sugar and a
teaspoonful of corn-starch wet in cold milk. Boil all together a few moments
until quite smooth; set it aside, and when cool, pour it into the pie through the
slit in the crust. Serve it cold with powdered sugar sifted over it.

Raspberry, blackberry, and whortleberry may be made the same.

GREEN GOOSEBERRY TART.

Top and tail the gooseberries. Put into a porcelain kettle with enough water

to prevent burning, and stew slowly until they break. Take them off, sweeten

welly and set aside to cool. WTien cold pour into pastry shells, and bake with a

top crust of puff -paste. Brush all over with beaten egg while hot, set back in

the oven to glaze for three minutes. Eat cold.

— Common Sense in the Household.

COCOANUT TARTS.

Take three cocoanuts, the meats grated, the yolks of five eggs, half a cupful
of white sugar, season, a wine-glass of milk; put the butter in cold, and bake
in a nice puff-paste.

CHOCOLATE TARTS.
Pour eggs, whites and yolks; one half cake of Baker's chocolate, grated; one
tablespoonful of corn-starch, dissolved in water; three tablespoonfuls of milk,
four of white sugar, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla, one saltspoonful of salt, one-
half teaspoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of butter, melted; i-ub the choco-
late smooth in the milk, and heat to boiUng over the fire, then stir in the corn-
starch. Stir five minutes until well thickened, remove from the fire, and pour

304 PASTRY^ PIES AND TARTS.

into a bowL Beat all the ydks and the whites of two egg;3 wdl with the sugar,

and when the chocolate mixtme is afanost cold, pot all together with the flaYor-

ingy and stir nntQ U^t. Bake in open sheDs of pastry. Whrai done, cover with

a meringoe made of the whites of two eggB and two taUe^KXHifiils of sogar

flavored with a teaspo(»ifal of lanon- jnioe. Eat cold.

These are nice for tea^ baked in patty-pans.

— Oomamom Ssmm in ik$ BnuehoUL

MAIDS OF HONOR.

Take <Hie capful of soar milk, one of sweet milk, a tabIeqx>onfal of melted
batter, the ydk of four egg^ joice and rind of one lemon, and small capfal of
white poanded sugar. Pat both kinds of milk together in a Tessel, which is set
in another, and let it become soffidently heated to set the card, then strain off
the milk, rob the card throag^ a strainer, add batter to the card, the sugar,
well-beaten egg^ and lemon. line the little pans with the richest of puff-
paste, and fin with the mixture ; bake untQ firm in the centre, fitmi ten to fifteen
minutes.

GERMAN FRUIT PIE.

Sift together a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder and a pint of flour; add
a jneoe of batter as large as a walnut, a pinch of salt, one beaten egg, and sweet
milk enou^ to make a soft don^i. BoU it out half an inch thick; butter a
square biscuit tin, and cover the bottom and sides with the dough; fill the pan
with quartered juicy apples, sprinkle with a little cinnamon and molasses. Bake
in rather quick oven untQ the crust and apples are cooked a light brown. Sprinkle
a little sugar over the top five minutes before removing from the oven.

Bipe peaches are fine, used in the same manner.

APPLE TARTS.

Pare, quarter, core and boil in half a cupful of water untQ quite soft, ten
large, tart aisles; beat until very smooth and add the yolks of six eggs, or three
whole ones, the juice and grated outside rind of two lemons, half a cup butter,
one and a half of sugar (or more, if not sufiBdently sweet); beat all thoroughly,
line patty-pans with a puff-paste, and fill; bake five minutes in a hot oven.

Meringue. — ^If desired very nice, cover them when removed from the oven
with a meringue made of the whites of three ^gs remaining, mixed with three
tablespoonfnls sugar; return to the oven and delicately brown.

CREAM TARTS.

Make a rich, brittle crust, with which cover your patty-pans, smoothing off
the edges nicely, and bake well. While these ^^ shells " are cooling, take one

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 305

teacupful (more or less according to the number of taxts you want) of perfectly
sweet and fresh cream, skinmied free of milk; put this into a large bowl or other
deep dish, and with your egg-beater whip it to a thick, stiff froth; add a heap-
ing tablespoonful of fine, white sugar, with a teaspoonful (a small one) of lemon
or vanilla. Fill the cold shells with this and set in a cool place till tea is ready.

OPEN JAM TARTS.

Time to bake until paste loosens from the dish. line shallow tin dish with
puff-paste, put in the jam, roll out some of the paste, wet it lightly with the
yolk of an egg beaten with a little milk, and a tablespoonful of powdered sugar.
Cfut it in very narrow strips, then lay them across the tart, lay another strip
around the edge, trim off outside, and bake in a quick oven.

CHESS CAKES.

Peel and grate one cocoanut; boil one pound of sugar fifteen minutes in two-
thirds of a pint of water; stir in the grated cocoanut and boil fifteen minutes
longer. While warm, stir in a quarter of a pound of butter; add the yolks of
seven eggs well beaten. Bake in patty-pans with rich paste. If prepared cocoa-
nut is used, take one and a half coffee-cupfuls. Fine.

Custarbs, Creams anb Desserts.

The usual rule for custards is, eight eggs to a quart of milk; but a very good
custard can be made of six, or even less, especially with the addition of a level
tablespoonful of sifted fiour, thoroughly blended in the sugar first, before adding
the other ingredients. They may be baked, boiled or steamed, either in cups or
one large dish. It improves custards to first boil the milk and then cool it before
being used; also a httle salt adds to the flavor. A very small lump of butter
may also be added, if one wants something especially rich.

To make custards look and taste better, duck's eggs should be used when
obtainable; they add very much to the flavor and richness, and so many are not
required as of ordinary eggs, four duck's eggs to the pint of milk making a
dehcious custard. When desired extremely rich and good, cream should be sub-
stituted for the milk, and double the quantity of eggs used to those mentioned,
omitting the whites.

When making boiled custard, set the dish containing the custaod into another

3o6 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

and larger dish, partly filled with boiling water, placed over the fire. Let the
cream or milk come almost to a boil before adding the eggs or thickening, then
stir it briskly one way every moment until smooth and well cooked; it must not
boil or it wiU curdle.

To bake a custard, the fire should be moderate, and the dish well buttered.

Everything in baked custard depends upon the regularly heated slow oven.
If made with nicety, it is the most delicate of all sweets; if cooked till it wheys,
it is hardly eatable.

Frozen eggs can be made quite as good as fresh ones if used as soon as thawed
soft. Drop them into boiling water, letting them remain imtil the water is cold.
They will be soft all through and beat up equal to those that have not been
touched with the frost.

Eggs should always be thoroughly well-beaten, separately, the yolks first*
then the sugar added, beat again, then add the beaten whites with the flavoring,
then the cooled scalded milk. The lighter the eggs are beaten, the thicker and
richer the custard.

Eggs should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolks separated,
and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus, the bad ones may
be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and so cause no waste.

A meringue, or frosting for the top, requires about a tablespoonful of fine
sugar to the beaten white of one egg; to be placed on the top after the custard
or pudding is baked; smoothed over with a broad-bladed knife dipped in cold
water, and replaced in the oven to brown slightly.

SOFT CARAMEL CUSTARD.

One quart of milk, half a cupful of sugar, six eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt.
Put the milk on to boil, reserving a cupful. Beat the eggs and add the cold milk
to them. Stir the sugar in a small frying-pan until it becomes liquid and just
begins to smoke. Stir it into the boiling milk; then add the beaten ^gs and
cold milk, and stir constantly imtil the mixture begins to thicken. Set away to
cooL Serve in glasses.

BAKED CUSTARD.

Beat five fresh eggs, the whites and yolks separately, the yolks with half a
cup of sugar, the whites to a stiff froth; then stir them gradually into a quart of
sweet, rich milk, previously boiled and cooled; flavor with extract of lemon or
vanilla, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Bub butter over the bottom and sides
of a baking-dish or tin basin; pour in the custard, grate a little nutmeg over.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 307

and bake in a quick oven. It is better to set the dish in a shallow pan of hot
water, reaching nearly to the top, the water to be kept boiling until the custard
is baked; three-quarters of an hour is generally enough. Bim a teaspoon handle
into the middle of it; if it comes out clean it is baked suflftciently.

CUP CUSTARD.

Six eggs, half a cupful of sugar, one quart of new milk. Beat the eggs, and the
sugar and milk, and any extract or flavoring you like. FLU your custard cups,
sift a little nutmeg or cinnamon over the tops, set them in a moderate oven in a
shallow pan half filled with hot water. In about twenty minutes try them
with the handle of a teaspoon to see if thej are firm. Judgment and great care
are needed to attain skill in baking custard; for if left in the oven a minute too
lonp. or if the fire is too hot, the milk will certainly whey.

Serve cold, with fresh fruit sugared and placed on top of each. Strawberries,
peaches or raspberries, as preferred.

BOILED CUSTARD.

Beat seven eggs very light, omitting the whites of two; mix them gradually
with a quart of milk and half a cupful of sugar; boil in a dish set into another
of boiling water; add flavoring. As soon as it comes to the boiling point, remove
it or it will be Uable to curdle and become lumpy. Whip the whites of the two
eggs that remain, adding two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar. When the cus-
tard is cold, heap this on top; if in cups put on a strawberry, or a bit of red jelly
on each. Set in a cold place till wanted.

— Common Sense in the Households

BOILED CUSTARD, OR MOCK CREAM.

Take two even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, one quart of milk, three eggs,
half a teaspoonful of salt and a small piece of butter; heat the milk to nearly
boiling, and add the starch, previously dissolved in a Uttle cold milk; then add
the eggs, well beaten, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar; let it boil up
once or twice, stirring it briskly, and it is done. Flavor with lemon, or vanilla,
or raspberry, or to suit your taste.

A good substitute for ice cream^ served very cold.

FRENCH CUSTARD.

One quart of milk, eight eggs, sugar and cinnamon to taste; separate the
eggs, beat the yolks until thick, to which add the milk, a little vanilla, and
sweeten to tast^; put it into a pan or fariaa kettle, place it over a slow fire and

«1

08 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

stir it all the time until it becomes custard; then pour it into a pudding-dish
to get cold; whisk the whites until stiff and dry; have ready a pan of boiling
water, on the top of which place the whites; cover and place them where the
water will keep sufficiently hot to cause a steam to pass through and cook them;
place in a dish (suitable for the table) a layer of custard and white alternately;
on each layer of custard grate a little nutmeg with a teaspoonful of wine; reserve
a layer of white for the cover, over which grate nutmeg; then send to table, and
eat cold.

GERMAN CUSTARD.

Add to a pint of good, rich, boiled custard an ounce of sweet almonds,
blanched, roasted, and pounded to a paste, and half an ounce of pine-nuts or
peanuts, blanched, roasted and pounded; also a small quantity of candied citron
cut into the thinnest possible slips; cook the custard as usual, and set it on the
ice for some hom^ before using.

APPLE CUSTARD.

Pare, core and quarter a dozen large juicy pippins. Stew among them the
yellow peel of a large lemon grated very fine; and stew them till tender in a
very small portion of water. When done, mash them smooth with the back of
a spoon (you must have a pint and a half of the stewed apple); mix a half-
cupful of sugar with them, and set them away till cold. Beat six ^gs very
light, and stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk, alternately with the
stewed apple. Put the mixture into cups, or into a deep dish, and bake it about
twenty minutes. Send it to table cold, with nutmeg grated over the top.

ALMOND CUSTARD. No. i.

Scald and blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of
bitter almonds, throwing them, as you do them, into a large bowl of cold water.
Then pound them, one at a time, into a paste, adding a few drops of wine or
rose-water to them. Beat eight eggs very hght, with two-thirds of a cup of
sugar, then mix altogether with a quart of rich milk, or part milk and part
cream; put the mixture into a sauce-pan and set it over the fire. Stir it one
way until it begins to thicken, but not till it curdles; remove from the fire, and
when it is cooled, put in a glass dish. Having reserved part of the whites of
the eggs, beat them to a stiff froth, season with three tablespoonfuls of sugar,
and a teaspoonful of lemon extract; spread over the top of the custard. Serve
cold.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 309

ALMOND CUSTARD. No. 2.

Blanch a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, pound them as in No. 1 above,
with six oimces of fine white sugar, and mix them well with the yolks of four
eggs; then dissolve one ounce of patent gelatine in one quart of boiling milk,
strain it through a sieve, and pour into it the other mixture; stir the whole over
the fire until it thickens and is smooth; then pour it into your mold, and keep
it upon ice, or in a cool place, until wanted; when ready to serve, dip the
mold into warm water, rub it with a cloth, and turn out the cream carefully
upon your dish.

SNOWBALL CUSTARD.

Soak half a package of Coxe's gelatine in a teacupful of cold water one hour,
to which add a pint of boiling water, stir it until the gelatine is thoroughly dis-
solved. Then beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, put two teacupfuls
of sugar in the gelatine water first, then the beaten whites of egg, and one tea-
spoonful of vanilla extract, or the grated rind and the juice of a lemon. Whip
it some time imtil it is all quite stiff and cold. Dip some teacups or wine-glasses
in cold water and fill them; set in a cold place.

In the meantime, make a boiled custard of the yolks of three of the eggs,
with half of a cupful of sugar, and a pint of milk; flavor with vanilla extract.
Now after the meringue in the cups has stood four or five hours, turn them out
of the molds, place them in a glass dish, and pour this custard around the base.

BAKED COCOANUT CUSTARD.

Grate as much cocoanut as will weigh a pound. Mix half a pound of pow-
dered white sugar with the milk of .the cocoanut, or with a pint of cream, add-
ing two tablespoonf uls of rose water. Then stir in gradually a pint of rich milk.
Beat to a stiff froth the whites of eight e^s, and stir them into the milk and
sugar, a Uttie at a time, alternately with the grated cocoanut; add a teaspoonful
of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon. Then put the mixture into cups, and bake
them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, set in a pan half filled with boiling
water. When cold, grate loaf sugar over them.

WHIPPED CREAM. No. i.

To the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, add a pint of thick, sweet
cream (previously set where it is very cold), and four tablespoonfuls of sweet
wine, with three of fine white sugar, and a teaspoonful of the extract of lemon
or vanilla. Mix all the ingredients together on a broad platter or pan, and whip
it to a standing froth; as the froth rises, take it off lightiy with a spoon, and lay

310 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

it on an inverted sieve with a dish under it to catch what will drain through;
and what drains through can be beaten over again.

Serve in a glass dish with jelly or jam, and sliced sponge cake. This
should be whipped in a cool place, and set in the ice-box.

WHIPPED CREAM. No. 2.
Three coffee-cupfuls of good thick sweet cream, half of a cup of powdered
sugar, three teaspoonfuls of vanilla; whip it to a stiff froth. Dissolve three-
fourths of an ounce of best gelatine in a teacup of hot water^ and when cool
pour it in the cream and stir it gently from the bottom upward, cutting the
cream into it, until it thickens. The dish which contains the cream should
be set in another dish containing ice water, or cracked ice. When finished, pour
in molds and set on ice or in a very cold place.

SPANISH CREAM.
Take one quart of milk and soak half a box of gelatine in it for an hour;
place it on the fire and stir often. Beat the yolks of three eggs very light with
a cupful of sugar, stir into the scalding milk, and heat imtil it begins to thicken,
(it should not boil, or it will curdle); remove from the fire, and strain through
thin muslin or tarletan, and when nearly cold, flavor with vanilla or lemon; then
wet a dish or mold in cold water and set aside to stiffen.

BAVARIAN CREAM.

One quart of sweet cream, the yolks of four eggs, beaten together with a
cupful of sugar. Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine or isinglass in half a teacup-
ful of warm water; when it is dissolved, stir in a pint of boiling hot cream; add
the beaten yolks and sugar; cook all together imtil it begins to thick^i, then
remove from the fire and add the other pint of cold cream, whipped to a stiff
froth; adding a Httle at a time, and beating hard. Season with vanilla or lemon.
Whip the whites of the eggs for the top. Dip the mold in cold water before
fiUing; set it in a cold place. To this could be added almonds> pounded; grated
chocolate, peaches, pineapples, strawberries, raspberries or any seasonable fruit.

STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM.

Pick off the hulls of a box of strawberries, bruise them in a basin with a cup
of powdered sugar; i-ub this through a sieve, and mix with it a pint of whipped
cream and one oimce and a half of clarified isinglass or gelatine; pour the cream
into a mold, previously oiled. Set it in rough ice, and when it has become firm
turn out on a dish

Raspberries or ciurants may be substituted for strawberries.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 311

GOLDEN CREAM.

Boil a quart of milk; when boiling, stir into it the well-beaten yolks of six
^gs; add six tablespoonfuls of sugar and one tablespoonful of sift-ed flour,
which have been well- beaten together; when boiled, turn it into a dish, and pour
over it the whites beaten to a stiff froth, mixing with them six tablespoonfuls
of powdered sugar. Set all in the oven, and brown shghtly. Flavor the top
with vaniUa, and the bottom with lemon. Serve cold.

CHOCOLATE CREAM. No. x.

Three ounces of grated chocolate, one-quarter pound of sugar, one and one-
half pints of cream, one and one-half ounces of clarified isinglass, or gelatine, the
yolks of six eggs.

Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the grated choco-
late, the sugar, and one pint of the cream; stir these ingredients well together,
pour them into a basin, and set this basin in a sauce-pan of boiUng water; stir
it one way until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to hoil, or it will
curdle. Strain the cream through a sieve into a basin, stir in the isinglass and
the other one-half pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix aU well
together, and pour it into a mold which has been previously oiled with the
purest salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice xmtil wanted for table.

CHOCOLATE CREAM OR CUSTARD. No. 2.

Take one quart of milk, and when nearly boiling stir in two ounces of grated
chocolate; let it warm on the fire for a few moments, and then remove and cool;
beat the yolks of eight eggs and two whites with eight tablespoonfuls of sugar,
then pour the milk over them; flavor and bake as any custard, either in cups or
a large dish. Make a meringue of the remaining whites.

LEMON CREAM. No.i.

One pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs, one quarter of a pound of white
sugar, one large lemon, one oimce isinglass or gelatine.

Put the cream into a lined sauce-pan, with the sugar, lemon-peel, and isin-
glass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about ten minutes, stirring them
all the time. Strain the cream into a basin add the yolks of eggs, which should
be well -beaten, and put the basin into a sauce-pan of boiling water; stir the mix-
ture one way until it thickens, hut do not allow it to boil; take it off the fire, and
keep stirring it until nearly cold. Strain the lemon- juice into a basin, gradually
pour on it the cream, and stir it well until the juice is well mixed with it. Have

3 1 2 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

ready a well-ofled mold, pour the cream into it, and let it remain untQ perfectly
set. When required for table, loosen the edges with a small blunt knife, put a
dish on the top of the mold, turn it over quickly^ and the cream should easily
slip away.

LEMON CREAM. No. 2.

Pare into one quart of boUing water the peels of four lai^ lemons, the yellow
outside only; let it stand for four hours; then take them out and add to the
water the juice of the four lemons, and one cupful of white, fine sugar. Beat
the yolks of ten eggs, and mix all together; strain it through a piece of lawn or
lace into a porcelain lined stew-pan; set it over a slow fire; stir it one way imtil
it is as thick as good cream, hut do not let it boil; then take it from the fire,
and when cool^ serve in custard cups.

LEMON CREAM. No. 3-

Peel three lemons, and squeeze out the juice into one quart of milk. Add
the peel; cut in pieces and cover the mixture for a few hours; then add six eggs,
well-beaten, and one pint of water, well-sweetened. Strain and simmer over a
gentle fire till it thickens; do not let it boil. Serve very cold.

ORANGE CREAM.

Whip a pint of cream eo^ long that there will be but one-half the quantity left
when skimmed off. Soak in half a cupful of cold water a half package of gela-
tine, and then grate over it the rind of two oranges. Strain the juice of six
oranges, and add to it a cupful of sugar; now put the half pint of un whipped
cream into a double boiler, pour into it the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, stirring
until it b^ins to thicken, then add the gelatine. Bemove from the fire, let it
stand for two minutes and add the orange juice and sugar; beat all together until
about the consistency of soft custard, and add the whipped cream. Mix weU,
and turn into moulds to harden. To be served with sweetened cream. Fine.

SOLID CREAM.

Four tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, one quart of cream, two tablespoonfuls
of brandy, the juice of one large lemon.

Strain the lemon- juice over the sugar, and add the brandy, then stir in the
cream, put the mixture into a pitcher and continue pouring from one pitcher to
another, imtil it is quite thick, or it may be whisked imtil the desired con-
sistency is obtained. It should be served in jelly-glasses.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 313

BANANA CREAM.
After peeling the bananas, mash them with an iron or wooden spoon; allow
equal quantities of bananas and sweet cream; to one quart of the mixture, allow
one-quarter of a pound of sugar. Beat them all together until the cream is light.

TAPIOCA CREAM CUSTARD.

Soak three heaping tablespoonf uls of tapioca in a teacupful of water over
night. Place over the fire a quart of milk; let it come to a boil, then stir in the
tapioca; a good pinch of salt; stir until it thickens; then add a cupful of sugar,
and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir it quickly and pour it into a dish and
stir gently into the mixture the whites beaten stiff, the flavoring, and set it on
ice, or in an ice-chest.

PEACH CREAM. No. i.

Mash very smooth two cupfuls of canned peaches, rub them through a sieve,
and cook for three minutes in a syrup made by boiling together one cupful of
sugar, and stirring all the time. Place the pan containing the syrup and peaches
into another of boiling water and add one-half packet of gelatine, prepared the
same as in previous recipes, and stir for five minutes to thoroughly dissolve the
gelatine; then take it from the fire, place in a pan of ice- water, beat until nearly
cool, and then add the well-frothed whites of six eggs. Beat this whole mix-
ture until it commences to harden. Then pour into a mould, set away to cool,
and serve with cream and sugar. It should be placed on the ice to cool for two
or three hours before serving.

PEACH CREAM. No. 2.

A quart of fine peacnes, pare and stone the fruit and cut in quarters. Beat
the whites of three eggs with a half cupful of powdered sugar until it is stiff
enough to cut with a knife. Take the yolks and mix with half a cupful of
granulated sugar and a pint of milk. Put the peaches into the mixtiu^, place
in a pudding-dish and bake until almost firm; then put in the whites, mixing all
thoroughly again, and bake a Ught brown. Eat ice-cold.

ITALIAN CREAM.

Put two pints of cream into two bowls; with one bowl mix six ounces of
powdered loaf sugar, the juice of two large lemons and two glassfuls of white
wine; then add the other pint of cream, and stir the whole very hard; boil two
ounces of isinglass or gelatine with four small teacupf uls of water till reduced to

SH CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

ODe-half ; then stir the mixture lukewarm into the other ingredients; put them
in a glass dish to congeal.

SNOW CREAM.

Heat a quart of thick, sweet cresim; when ready to hoil, stir into it quickly
three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch flour, blended with some cold cream; sweeten
to taste, and allow it to boil gently, stirring for two or three minutes; add
quickly the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; do not allow it to boil up
more than once after adding the egg; flavor with lemon, vanilla, bitter almoDd
or grated lemon peel; lay the snow thus formed quickly in rocky heaps on silver
or glass dishes, or in shapes. Iced, it will turn out well.

K the recipe is closely followed, any family may enjoy it at a trifling expense,
and it is really worthy the table of an epicure. It can be made the day before
it is to be eaten; kept cold.

MOCK ICE.

Take about three tablespoonfuls of some good preserve; rub it through a sieve
with as much cream as will fill a quart mould; dissolve three-quarters of an
ounce of isinglass or gelatine in half a pint of water; when almost cold, mix it
well with the cream; put it into a mold; set it in a cool place, and turn out
next day.

PEACH MERINGUE.

Pare and quarter (removing stones) a quart of sound, ripe peaches; place them
all in a dish that it will not injure to set in the oven, and yet be suitable to place
on the table. Sprinkle the peaches with sugar, and cover them well with the
beaten whites of three eggs. Stand the dish in the oven, until the eggs have
become a deUcate brown, then remove, and, when cool enough, set the dish on
ice, or in a very cool place. Take the yolks of the eggs, add to them a pint of
milk, sweeten and flavor, and boil same in a custard kettle, being careful to keep
the eggs from curdling. When cool, pour into a glass pitcher and serve with
the meringue when ready to use.

APPLE FLOAT.

One dozen apples, pared and cored, one pound and a half of sugar. Put the
apples on with water enough to cover them, and let them stew until they look
as if they would break; then take them out and put the sugar into the same
water; let the syrup come to a boil; put in the apples, and let them stew until
done through and clear; then take them out, sUce into the syrup one laige
lemon, and add an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a pint of cold water. Let the

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 315

whole mix well and come to a boil; then pom* upon the apples. The syrup will
congeal. It is to be eaten cold with cream.

Or you may change the dish by making a soft custard with the yolk of four
€ggs, three tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar, and a scant quart of milk. When
cold, spread it over the apples. Whip the whites of the e^s, flavor with lemon,
and place on the custard. C!olor in the oven.

SYLLABUB.

One quart of rich milk or cream, a cupful of wine, half a cupful of sugar;
put the sugar and wine into a bowl, and the milk lukewarm in a separate vessel.
When the sugar is dissolved in the wine, pour the milk in, holding it high; pour
it back and forth until it is frothy. Grate nutmeg over it.

CREAM FOR FRUIT.

This recipe is an excellent substitute for pure cream, to be eaten on fresh
• berries and fruit.

One cupful of sweet milk; heat it until boiling. Beat together the whites
of two eggs, a tablespoonful of white sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a
nutmeg. Now add half a cupful of cold milk and a teaspoonful of corn-starch;
stir well together until very Ught and smooth, then add it to the boiling milk;
cook it until it thickens; it must not boil. Set it aside to cool. It should be of
the consistence of real fresh cream. Serve in a creamer.

STRAWBERRY SPONGE.

One quart of strawberries, half a package of gelatine, one cupful and a half
of water, one cupful of sugar, the juice of a lemon, the whites of four eggs.
Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a cupful of the water. Mash the straw-
berries, and add half the sugar to them. Boil the remainder of the sugar and
the water gently twenty minutes. Rub the strawberries through a sieve. Add the
gelatine to the boiling syrup and take from the fire immediately; then add the
strawberries. Place in a pan of ice water, and beat five minutes. Add the
whites of eggs, and beat until the mixture begins to thicken. Pour in the molds
and set away to harden. Serve with sugar and cream. Easpberry and black-
berry sponges are made in the same way.

LEMON SPONGE.

Lemon sponge is made from the juice of f otir lemons, four eggs, a cupful of
sugar, half a package of gelatine, and one pint of water. Strain lemon juice on
the sugar; beat the yolks of the eggs, and mix with the remainder of the water,

3l6 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

having used a half cupful of the pint in which to soak the gelatine. Add the
sugar and lemon to this and cook until it begins to thicken, then add the gela-
tine. Strain this into a basin, which place in a pan of water to cool. Beat with a
whisk until it has cooled but not hardened; now add the white of the eggs until
it begins to thicken, turn into a mold and set to harden.

Bemember, the sponge hardens very rapidly when it commences to cool, so
have your molds all ready. Serve with powdered sugar and cream.

APPLE SNOW.

Stew some fine-flavored sour apples tender, sweeten to taste, strain them
through a fine wire sieve, and break into one pint of strained apples the white
of an egg; whisk the apple and egg very briskly till quite stiff, and it will be as
white as snow; eaten with a nice boiled custard it makes a very desirable
dessert. More eggs may be used, if liked.

QUINCE SNOW.

Quarter five fair-looking quinces, and boil them till they are tender in water,
then peel them and push them through a coarse sieve. Sweeten to the taste
and add the whites of three or four eggs. Then with an ^g- whisk beat all to
a stiff froth and pile with a spoon upon a glass dish and set away in the ice-box,
unless it is to be served immediately.

ORANGE TRIFLE.

Take the thin parings from the outside of a dozen oranges and put to steep
in a wide-mouthed bottle; cover it with good cognac, and let it stand twenty-
four hours; skin and seed the oranges, and reduce to a pulp; press this through a
sieve, sugar to taste, arrange in a dish, and heap with whipped cream flavored
with the orange brandy; ice two hours before serving.

LEMON TRIFLE.

The juice of two lemons and grated peel of one, one pint of cream,* well-
sweetened and whipped stiff, one cupful of sherry, a Uttle nutmeg. Let sugar,
lemon- juice, and peel lie together two hours before you add wine and nutmeg.
Strain through double tarlatan, and whip gradually into the frothed cream. Serve
very soon heaped in small glasses. Nice with cake.

FRUIT TRIFLE.

Whites of four ^gs beaten to a stiff froth, two tablespoonfuls each of sugar,
currant jelly and raspberry jam. Eaten with sponge cakes, it is a delicious
dessert.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 317

GRAPE TRIFLE.

Pulp through a sieve two pounds of ripe grapes, enough to keep back the
stones, add sugar to taste. Put into a trifle dish, and cover with whipped cream,
nicely flavored. Serve very cold.

APPLE TRIFLE.

Peel, core and quarter some good tart apples of nice flavor, and stew them
with a strip of orange and a strip of quince-peel, suflBcient water to cover the
bottom of the stew-pan, and sugar in the proportion of half a pound to one
pound of fruit; when cooked, press the pulp through a sieve; and when cold,
dish, and cover with one pint of whipped cream, flavored with lemon-peel.

Quinces prepared in the same manner are equally as good.

PEACH TRIFLE.

Select perfect, fresh peaches, peel and core and cut in quarters; they should
be well siigared, arranged in a trifle dish with a few of their own blanched kernels
among them, then heaped with whipped cream as above; the cream should not
be flavored; this trifle should be set on the ice for at least an hour before serv-
ing; home-made sponge cakes should be served with it.

GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.

One quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, one pint of custard, a plateful of
whipped cream.

Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufiicient moist sugar to sweeten them,
and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at the bottom of a trifle
dish ; pomr over it a pint of custard, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream.
The cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will
then be so much firmer and more solid. This dish may be garnished as fancy
dictates.

LEMON HONEY.

One coflfee-cupful of white sugar, the grated rind and juice of one large
lemon, the yolk of three eggs, and the white of one, a tablespoonful of butter.
Put into a basin the sugar and butter, set it in a dish of boiling water over the
fire; while this is melting, beat up the e^s, and add to them the grated rind
from the outside of the lemon; then add this to the sugar and butter, cooking
and stirring it until it is thick and dear like honey.

This will keep for some days, put into a tight preserve jar, and is nice for
flavoring pies, etc.

3l8 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

FLOATING ISLANDS.
Beat the yolks of five ^gs and the whites of two very lights sweeten with
five tablespoonfols of sugar and flavor to taste; stir them into a quart of scalded
milk and cook it until it thickens. When cool, pour it into a glass dish. Now
whip the whites of the three remaining e^s to a ^iff froth; adding three table-
spoonfuls of sugar, and a Uttle flavoring. Pour this froth over a shallow dish
of boiling water; the steam passing through it cooks it; when sufficiently cooked,
take a tablespoon and drop spoonfuls of tins over the top of the custard, far
enough apart so that the ^^ httle white islands " will not touch each other. By
dropping a teaspoonful of bright jelly on the top or centre of each island, is pro-
duced a pleasing effect; also by filling wine-glasses and arranging them around
a standard adds much to the appearance of the table.

FLOATING ISLAND.

One quart of milk, five %gs, and five tablespoonfuls of sugar. Scald the
milk, then add the beaten yolks and one of the whites together with the sugar.
First stir into them a little of the scalded milk to prevent curdling, then all of
the milk. Cook it the proper thickness; remove from the fire, and when cool,
flavor; then pour it into a glass dish and let it become very cold. Before it is
served, beat up the remaining four whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and beat
into them three tablespoonfuls of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly.
Dip this over the top of the custard.

TAPIOCA BLANC MANGE.

Half a poimd of tapioca, soaked an hour in one pint of milk, and boiled tiU
tender; add a pinch of salt, sweeten to taste, and put into a mold; when cold,
turn it out, and serve with strawberry or raspberry jam around it and a little
cream. Flavor with lemon or vanilla.

BLANC MANGE. No. z.

In one teacupf ul of water boil until dissolved one ounce of clarified isinglass,
or of patent gelatine, (which is better); stir it continually while boiling. Then
squeeze the juice of a lemon upon a cnipful of fine, white sugar; stir the sugar
into a quart of rich cream, and half a pint of Madeira or Sherry wine; when it
is well mixed, add the dissolved isinglass or gelatine, stir all well together, pour
it into molds previously wet with cold water; set the molds upon ice, let them
stand until their contents are hard and cold, then serve with sugar and cream or
custard sauce.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 319

BLANC MANGE. No, 2-

Dissolve two ounces of patent gelatine in cold water; when it is dissolved,
stir it into two quarts of rich milk, with a teacupful of fine white sugar; season
it to your taste with lemon, or vanilla, or peach water; place it over the fire and
boil it, stirring it continually; let it boil five minutes; then strain it through a
doth, pour it into molds previously wet with cold water, and salt; let it stand
on ice, or in any cool place, until it becomes hard and cold; turn it out carefully
upon dishes and serve; or, half fill your mold; when this has set, cover with
cherries, peaches in halves, strawberries or sliced bananas, and add the re-
mainder.

CHOCOLATE BLANC MANGE.

Half a box of gelatine soaked in a cupful of water for an hour, half a cupful
of grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a httle milk. Boil two cupfuls of milk,
then add the gelatine and chocolate, and one cupful of sugar; boil all together
eight or ten minutes. Eemove from the fire, and when nearly cold beat into
this the whipped whites of three eggs, flavored with vanilla. Should be served
cold with custard made of the yolks, or sugar and cream. Set the molds in a
cold place.

CORN-STARCH BLANC MANGE.

Take one quart of sweet milk, and put one pint upon the stove to heat; in the
other pint mix four heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and half a cupful of
sugar; when the milk is hot, pour in the cold milk with the corn-starch and
sugar thoroughly mixed in it, and stir all together until there are no liunps and
it is thick; flavor with lemon; take from the stove, and add the whites of three
eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

A Custard for the above. — One pint of milk boiled with a Uttle salt in it;
beat the yolks of three eggs with half a cupful of sugar, and add to the boiling
milk; stir well, but do not let it boil until the eggs are put in; flavor to taste.

FRUIT BLANC MANGE.

Stew nice, fresh fruit (cherries, raspberries, and strawberries being the best),
or canned ones will do; strain off the juice, and sweeten to taste; place it over
the fire in a double kettle until it boils; while boiling, stir in corn-starch wet
with a little cold water, allowing two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch to each pint
of juice; continue stirring until sufficiently cooked; then pour into molds wet in
cold water, and set away to cool. Served with cream and sugar.

320 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

ORANGE CHARLOTTE.

For two molds of medium size, soak half a box of gelatine in half a cupfol
of water for two hours. Add one and a half cupful of boiling water, and strain.
Then add two cupfuls of sugar, one of orange juice and pulp, and the juice of
one lemon. Stir until the mixture begins to cool, or about five minutes; then
add the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat the whole until so stiff
that it will only just pour into molds lined with sections of orange. Set away
to cool.

STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE. ^

Make a boiled custard of one quart of milk, the yolks of six eggs, and three-
quarters of a cupful of sugar; flavor to taste. Line a glass fruit dish with slices
of sponge cake, dipped in sweet cream; lay upon this ripe strawberries sweetened
to taste; then a layer of cake and strawberries as before. When the custard is
cold, pour over the whole. Now beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add
a tablespoonf ul of sugar to each egg, and put over the top. Decorate the top
with the largest berries saved out at the commencement.

Baspberry Charlotte may be made the same way.

RUSSE. (Fine.)

Whip one quart of rich cream to a stiff froth, and drain well on a nice sieve.
To one scant pint of milk add six eggs beaten very light; make very sweet;
flavor high with vanilla. Cook over hot water till it is a thick custard. Soak
one full ounce of Cox's gelatine in a very httle water, and warm over hot water.
When the custard is very cold, beat in Hghtly the gelatine and the whipped
cream. Line the bottom of your mold with buttered paper, the side with
sponge cake or lady-fingers fastened together with the white of an egg. FQl
with the cream, put in a cold place, or in summer on ice. To turn out, dip the
mold for a moment in hot water. In draining the whipped cream, all that drips
through can be re-whipped.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Cut stale sponge cake into sUces about half an inch thick and line three molds
with them, leaving a space' of half an inch between each slice; set the molds
where they will not be disturbed imtil the filling is ready. Take a deep tin pan
and fill about one-third full of either snow or pounded ice, and into this set
another pan that will hold at least four quarts. Into a deep bowl or pail (a whip
chmn is better) put one and a half pints of cream (if the cream is very thick take

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 321

one pint of cream and a half pint of milk); whip it to a froth, and when the

bowl is full, skim the froth into the pan which is standing on the ice, and

repeat this imtil the cream is all froth; then with a spoon draw the froth to one

side, and you wiU find that some of the cream has gone back to milk; turn this

into the bowl again, and whip as before; when the cream is all whipped, stir into

it two-thirds of a cup of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla and half of

a box of gelatine, which has been soaked in cold water enough to cover it for

one hour, and then dissolved in boiling water enough to dissolve it (about half

a cup); stir from the bottom of the pan tmtil it begins to grow stiff; fill the molds

and set them on ice in the pan for one hour, or imtil they are sent to the table.

When ready to dish them, loosen lightly at the sides and turn out on a fiat dish.

Have the cream ice-cold when you begin to whip it; and it is a good plan to put

a lump of ice into the cream while whipping it.

— Jforia Parloa.

ANOTHER CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Two tablespoonfuls of gelatine soaked in a Uttle cold milk two hours; two
coffeecupfuls of rich cream; one teacupful of milk. Whip the cream stiff in a
large bowl or dish; set on ice. Boil the milk and pour gradually over the gela-
tine until dissolved, then strain; when nearly cold, add the whipped cream, a
spoonful at a time. Sweeten with powdered sugar, flavor with extract of vanilla,
line a dish with lady-fingers or sponge cake; pour in cream, and set in a cool place
to harden. This is about the same recipe as M. Parloa's, but is not as explicit in
detail.

PLAIN CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Make a rule of white sponge cake; bake in narrow, shallow pans. Then
make a custard of the yolks, after this recipe. Wet a sauce-pan with cold water
to prevent the milk that will be scalded in it from burning. Pour out the water
and put in a quart of milk; boil and partly cool. Beat up the yolks of six Qggs,
and add three ounces of sugar and a saltspoonful of salt; mix thoroughly and
add the hike- warm milk. Stir and pour the custard into a porcelain or double
sauce-pan, and stir while on the range until of the consistency of cream; do not
allow it to boil, as that would curdle it; strain, and when almost cold, add two
teaspoonf uls of vanilla. Now having arranged your cake (cut into inch slices)
around the sides and on the bottom of a glass dish, pour over the custard. If
you wish a meringue on the top, beat up the whites of four eggs with four table-
spoonfuls of sugar; fiavor with lemon or vanilla, spread over the top, and brown
slightly in the oven.

322 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

PLAIN CHARLOTTE RUSSE. No. 2.

Put some thin slices of sponge cake in the bottom of a glass sauce-dish; pour
in wine enough to soak it; beat up the whites of three eggs until very light; add
to it three tablespoonfuls of finely powdered sugar, a glass of sweet wine, and
one pint of thick, sweet cream; beat it well, and pour over the cake. Set it in a
cold place until served.

NAPLE BISCUITS, OR CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Make a double rule of sponge cake; bake it in round, deep patty-pans; when
cold, cut out the inside about one quarter of an inch from the edge and bottom,
leaving the shell. Beplace the inside with a custard made of the yolks of four
eggs, beaten with a pint of boiling milk, sweetened and flavored; lay on the top
of this some jeUy or jam; beat the whites of three eggs with three heaping
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar until it will stand in a heap; flavor it a little;
place this on the jelly. Set them aside in a cold place until time to serve.

ECONOMICAL CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Make a quart of nicely flavored mock custard, put it into a large glass
fruit dish, which is partly filled with stale cake (of any kind) cut up into small
pieces about an inch square, stir it a little, then beat the whites of two or more
eggs stiff, sweetened with white sugar; spread over the top, set in a refrigerator
to become cold.

Or, to be still more economical: To make the cream, take a pint and a half
of milk, set it on the stove to boil; mix together in a bowl the following named
articles: large half cup of sugar, one moderately heaped teaspoonful of corn-
starch, two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, one egg, a small half cup of
milk and a pinch of salt. Pour into the boiling milk, remove to top of the stove
and let simmer a minute or two. When the cream is cold pour over the cake
just before setting it on the table. Serve in saucers. If you do not have plenty
of eggs you can use all corn-starch, about two heaping teaspoonfuls; but be
careful .and not get the cream too thick, and have it free from lumps.

The cream should be flavored, either with vanilla or lemon extract. Nut-
m^ might answer.

TIPSY CHARLOTTE.

Take a stale sponge cake, cut the bottom and sides of it, so as to make it
stand even in a glass fruit dish; make a few deep gashes through it with a sharp
knife, pour over it a pint of good wine, let it stand and soak into the cake. Li

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 323

the meantime, blanch, peel and slice lengthwise half a pound of sweet almonds;
stick them all over the top of the cake. Have ready a pint of good boiled cus-
tard, well flavored, and pom: over the whole. To be dished with a spoon. This
is equally as good as any Charlotte.

ORANGE CHARLOTTE.

One- third of a box of gelatine, one-third of a cupful of cold water, one- third
of a cupful of boiling water, and one cup of sugar, the juice of one lemon,
and one cupful of orange -juice and pulp, a Uttle grated orange-peel and
the whites of four eggs. Soak the gelatine in the cold water one hour. Pour
the boiling water over the lemon and orange juice, cover it and let stand half an
hour; then add the sugar, let it come to a boil on the fire, stir in the gelatine, and
when it is thoroughly dissolved, take from the fire. When cool enough, beat
into it the f oiu* beaten whites of egg, turn into the mold and set in a cold place
to stiffen, first placing pieces of sponge cake all aroimd the mold.

BURNT ALMOND CHARLOTTE.

One cupful of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped fine, half a box of gela-
tine soaked two hours in half a cupful of cold water; when the gelatine is suffi-
ciently soaked, put three tablespoonfuls of sugar into a sauce-pan over the fire
and stir until it becomes liquid and looks dark; then add the chopped almonds
to it, and stir two minutes more; turn it out on a platter and set aside to get
cool. After they become cool enough, break them up in a mortar, put them in
a cup and a half of milk, and cook again for ten minutes. Now beat together
the yolk of two eggs with a cupful of sugar, and add to the cooking mixtm-e;
add also the gelatine; stir until smooth and well dissolved; take from the fire and
set in a basin of ice- water and beat it until it begins to thicken; then add to that
two quarts of whipped cream, and turn the whole carefully into molds, set
away on the ice to become firm. Sponge cake can be placed around the mold or
not, as desired.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE, WITH PINEAPPLE.

Peel and cut a pineapple in slices, put the slices into a stew-pan with half a
pound of fine white sugar, half an ounce of isinglass, or of patent gelatine,
(which is better), and half a teacupful of water; stew it until it is quite tender,
then rub it through a sieve, place it upon ice, and stir it well; when it is upon
the point of setting, add a pint of cream weU whipped, mix it well, and pour it
into a mold lined with sponge cake, or prepared in any other way you prefer.

324 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

COUNTRY PLUM CHARLOTTE.

Stone a quart of ripe plums; first stew, and then sweeten them. Cut
of bread and butter, and lay them in the bottom and around the sides of a large
bowl or deep dish. Pour in the plums boiling hot, cover the bowl, and set it
away to cool gradually. When quite cold, send it to table, and eat it with cream.

VELVET CREAM, WITH STRAWBERRIES.

Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a gill of water; add to it half a pint of
light sherry, grated lemon^peel and the juice of one lemon and five ounces of
sugar. Stir over the fire until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Then strain
and cooL Before it sets beat into it a pint of cream; pour into molds and keep
on ice until wanted. Half fill the small molds with fine strawberries, pour the
mixture on top, and place on ice until wanted.

CORN-STARCH MERINGUE.

Heat a quart of milk untQ it boils, add four heaping teaspoonfuls of corn-
starch which has previously been dissolved in a little cold milk. Stir constantly
while boiling, for fifteen minutes. Bemove from the fire, and gradually add
while hot the yolks of five eggs, beaten together with three-fourths of a cupful
of sugar, and flavored with lemon, vanilla or bitter almond. Bake this mixture
for fifteen minutes in a well-buttered pudding-dish or until it b^ins to " set."

Make a meringue of the whites of five e^s, whipped stiff with a half cupful
of jelly, and spread evenly over the custard, without removing the same farther
than the edge of the oven.

Use currant jelly if vanilla is used in the custard, crab-apple for bitter almond,
and strawberry for lemon. Cover and bake for five minutes, after which take
off the hd and brown the meringue a very little. Sift powdered sugar thickly
over the top. To be eaten cold.

WASHINGTON PIE.

This recipe is the same as ^' Boston Cream Pie," (adding half an ounce of but-
ter,) which may be found under the head of " Pastry, Pies and Tarts. " In summer
time, it is a good plan to bake the pie the day before wanted; then when cool,
wrap around it a paper and place it in the ice-box so as to have it get very cold;
then serve it with a dish of fresh strawberries, or raspberries. A delicious dessert.

CREAM PIE. No. 2.
Make two cakes as for Washington pie, then take one cup of sweet cream
and three tablespoonfuls of white sugar. Beat with egg-beater or fork till it is

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 325

stiff enough to put on without running oflf, and flavor with vanilla. If you beat
it after it is stiff it will come to butter. Put between the cakes and on top.

DESSERT PUFFS.

Puffs for dessert are delicate and nice; take one pint of milk and cream each^
the white of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one heaping cupful of sifted flom*,
one scant cupful of powdered sugar, add a Uttle grated lemon-peel, and a little
salt; beat these all together till very Ught, bake in gem-pans, sift pulverized
sugar over them, and eat with sauce flavored with lemon.

PEACH CAKE FOR DESSERT.

Bake three sheets of sponge-cake, as for jelly-cake; cut nice ripe peaches in
thin sUces, or chop them; prepare cream by whipping, sweetening and adding
flavor of vanilla, if desired; put layers of peaches between the sheets of cake;
pour cream over each layer and over the top. To be eaten soon after it is
prepared.

FRUIT SHORT-CAKES.

For the recipes of strawberry, peach and other fruit short-cakes, look under
the head of "Biscuits, Rolls and Muffins.'' They all make a very delicious
dessert when served with a pitcher of fresh, sweet cream, when obtainable.

SALTED OR ROASTED ALMONDS.

Blanch half a pound of almonds. Put with them a tablespoonful of melted
butter and one of salt. Stir them till well mixed, then spread them over a
baking-pan and bake fifteen minutes, or till crisp, stirring often. They must be
bright yellow-brown when done. They are a fashionable appetizer, and should
be placed in ornamental dishes at the beginning of dinner, and are used by some
in place of olives, which, however, should also be on the table, or some fine
pickles may take their place.

ROAST CHESTNUTS.

Peel the raw chestnuts and scald them to remove the inner skin; put them
in a frying-pan with a Uttle butter and toss them about a few moments; add
a sprinkle of salt and a suspicion of cayenne. Serve them after the cheese.

Peanuts may be blanched and roasted the same.

AFTER-DINNER CROUTONS.
These crispy croutons answer as a substitute for hard- water crackers, and
are also relished by most people.

Cut sandwich -bread into shoes one-quarter of an inch thick; cut each sUce

326 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

into four small triangles; dry them in the oven slowly untQ they assmne a deli-
cate brownish tint, then serve, either hot or cold. A nice way to serve them is
to spread a paste of part butter and part rich, creamy cheese, to which may be
added a very little minced parsley.

ORANGE FLOAT.
To make orange float, take one quart of water, the juice and pulp of two
lemons, one coffee-cupful of sugar. When boiling hot, add four tablespoonfuls
of corn-starch. Let it boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time. When cold,
pour it over four or five oranges that have been sUced into a glass dish, and over
the top spread the beaten whites of three eggs, sweetened and flavored with
vanilla. A nice dessert.

LEMON TOAST.

This dessert can be made very conveniently without much preparation.

Take the yolks of six eggs, beat them well, and add three cupfuls of sweet
milk; take baker's bread, not too stale and cut into slices; dip them into the
milk and eggs, and lay the slices into a spider, with sufficient melted butter, hot,
to fry a delicate brown. Take the whites of the six eggs, and beat them to a
froth, adding a large cupful of white sugar; add the juice of two lemons, heating
well, and adding two cupfuls of boiling water. Serve over the toast as a sauce,
and you will find it a very deUdous dish.

SWEET OMELET. No. i.

One tablespoonful of butter, two of sugar, one cupful of milk, four eggs.
Let the milk come to a boil. Beat the flour and butter together ; add to them
gradually the boiling milk, and cook eight minutes, stirring often; beat the su-
gar and the yolks of the eggs together; add to the cooked mixture, and set away
to cool. When cool, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the
mixture. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish for twenty minutes in a moderate
oven. Serve immediately^ with creamy sauce.

SWEET OMELET. No. 2.

Four eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of
vanilla extract, one cupful of whipped cream. Beat the whites of the eggs to a
stiff froth, and gradually beat the flavoring and sugar into them. When well
beaten add the yolks, and lastly, the whipped cream. Have a dish holding
about one quart slightly buttered. Pour the mixture into this and bake just
twelve minutes. Serve the moment it is taken from the oven.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 327

SALAD OF MIXED FRUITS.

Put in the centre of a dish a pineapple properly pared, cored and sliced, yet
retaining as near as practicable its original shape. Peel, quarter and remove the
seeds from four sweet oranges; arrange them in a border around the pineapple.
Select foiu: fine bananas, peel and cut into slices lengthwise; arrange these
zigzag-fence fashion around the border of the dish. In the V-shaped spax^s
around the dish put tiny mounds of grapes of mixed colors. When complete,
the dish should look very appetizing. To half a pint of clear sugar syrup add
half an oiuice of good brandy, pour over the fruit and serve.

ORANGE COCOANUT SALAD.

Peel and slice a dozen oranges, grate a cocoanut, and slice a pineapple. Put
alternate layers of each until the dish is full. Then pour over them sweetened
wine. Served with small cakes.

When oranges ^are served whole, they should be i)eeled and prettily arranged
in a fruit dish. A small knife is best for this purpose. Break the skin from
the stem into six or eight even parts, peel each section down half way, and tuck
the point in next to the orange.

CRYSTALLIZED FRUIT.

Pick out the finest of any kind of fruit, leave on their stalks, beat the whites
of three eggs to a stiff froth, lay the fruit in the beaten egg with the stalks
upward, drain them and beat the part that drips off again; select them out, one
by one, and dip them into a cup of finely powdered sugar; cover a pan with a
sheet of fine paper, place the fruit inside of it, and put it in an oven that is cool-
ing; when the icing on the fruit becomes firm, pile them on a dish and set them
in a cool place. For this purpose, oranges or lemons should be carefully pared,
and aU the white inner skin removed that is possible, to prevent bitterness; then
cut either in thin horizontal slices if lemons, or in quarters if oranges. For
cherries, strawberries, currants, etc., choose the largest and finest, leaving stems
out. Peaches should be pared and cut in halves, and sweet juicy pears may be
treated in the same way, or look nicely when pared, leaving on the stems, and
iced. Pineapples should be cut in thin sUces, and these, again, divided into
quarters.

PEACHES AND CREAM.

Pare and slice the peaches just before sending to table. Cover the glass dish
containing them to exclude the air as much as possible, as they soon change

328 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

color. Do not sugar them in the dish— they then become preserves, not fresh
fruit. Pass the powdered sugar and cream with them.

SNOW PYRAMID.

Beat to a stiff foam the whites of half a dozen eggs, add a small teacupful of
currant jelly, and whip all together again. Fill half full of cream as many
saucers as you have guests, dropping in the centre of each saucer a tablespoon-
ful of the beaten eggs and jelly in the shape of a pyramid.

JELLY FRITTERS.

Make a batter of three eggs, a pint of milk, and a pint bowl of wheat flour
or more, beat it Ught; put a tablespoonful of lard or beef fat in a frying or
omelet pan, add a saltspoonful of salt, making it boiling hot, put in the batter by
the large spoonful, not too close; when one side is a deUcate brown, turn the
other; when done, take them on to a dish with a d'oyley over it; put a dessert^
spoonful of firm jelly or jam on each, and serve. A very nice dessert.

STEWED APPLES- No. i.
Take a dozen green, tart apples, core and slice them, put into a sauce-pan
with just enough water to cover them, cover the sauce-pan closely, and stew the
apples until they are tender and clear; then take them out, put them into a deep^
dish and cover them; add to the juice in the sauce-pan a cupful of loaf sugar for-
every twelve (apples, and boil it half an hour, adding to the syrup a pinch of
mace and a dozen whole cloves just ten minutes before taking from the fire;,
pour scalding hot over the apple, and set them in a cold place; eat ice cold with
cream or boiled custard.

STEWED APPLES. No. 2.
Apples cooked in the following way look very pretty on a tea-table and are
appreciated by the palate. Select firm roxmd greenings, pare neatly and cut in
halves; place in a shallow stew-pan with sufiicient boiling water to cover them
and a cup of sugar to every six apples. Each half should cook on the bottom of
the pan and be removed from the others so as not to injure its shape. Stew
slowly until the pieces are very tender, remove to a glass dish carefully, boil the
syrup a half hour longer, pour it over the apples and eat cold. A few pieces of
lemon boiled in the syrup adds to the flavor.

BAKED PEARS.
Pare and core the pears, without dividing; place them in a pan, and fill up
the orifice with brown sugar; add a Uttle water, and let them bake until per--
fectly tender. Nice with sweet cream or boiled custard.

CUSTARD Sy CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 329

STEWED PEARS-
Stewed pears with a thick syrup make a fine dessert dish accompanied with

cake.

Peel and cut them in halves, leaving the stems on, and scoop out the cores.
Put them into a sauce-pan, placing them close together, with the stems upper-
most. Pour over sufficient water, a cup of sugar, a few whole cloves, and some
sticks of cinnamon, a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Cover the stew-pan closely,
to stew gently till the fruit is done, which will depend on the quality of the
fruit. Then take out the fruit carefully, and arrange it on a dish for serving.
Boil down the syrup until quite thick; strain it and allow it to cool enough to
set it; then pour it over the fruit.

The juice could be colored by a few drops of hquid cochineal, or a few slices
of beets, while boiling. A teaspoonful of brandy adds much to the flavor.
Serve with cream or boiled custard.

BAKED QUINCES.

Take ripe quinces, pare and quarter them, cut out the seeds; then stew them
in clear water until a straw will pierce them; put into a baking dish with half a
cupful of loaf sugar to every eight quinces; pour over them the liquor in which
they were boiled, cover closely, and bake in the oven one hour; then take out
the quinces and put them into a covered dish; return the syrup to the sauce-pan
and boil twenty minutes; then pour over the quinces, and set them away to cool.

GOOSEBERRY FOOL.

Stew a quart of ripe gooseberries in just enough water to cover them, when
soft, rub them through a colander to remove the skins and seeds; while hot stir
into them a tablespoonful of melted butter, and a cupful of sugar. Beat the
yolks of three eggs, and add that; whip all together until hght. Fill a large
glass fruit dish, and spread on the top of the beaten whites mixed with three
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Apples or any tart fruit is nice made in this manner.

MERINGUES OR KISSES.

A coffee-cupful of fine, white sugar, the whites of six eggs; whisk the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth, and with a wooden spoon stir in quickly the pounded
sugar; and have some boards put in the oven thick enough to prevent the bottom
of the meringues from acquiring too much color. Cut some strips of paper
about two inches wide; place this paper on the board and drop a tablespoonful
at a time of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let aU the meringues be the

330 CUSTARJDS^ CREAMS AND DESSEJiTS.

same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixtm^ the form of an
egg, and keep the meringues about two inches apart from each other on the
paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate oven for
half an' hour. As soon as they begin to color, remove them from the oven; take
each shp of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the table, and, with a
small spoon take out the soft part of each meringue. Spread some dean paper
on the board, turn the meringues upside down, and put them into the oven to
harden, and brown on the other side. When required for table, fill them with
whipped cream, flavored with hquor or vanilla, and sweeten with pounded
sugar. Join two of the meringues together, and pile them high in the dish. To
vary their appearance, finely chopped almonds or currants may be strewn over
them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may be garnished with any
bright-colored preserve. Great expedition is necessary in making this sweet dish,
as, if the meringues are not put into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs aie
mixed, the former melts, and the mixture would run on the paper instead of
keeping its egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made the crisper will
they be; but if there is not sufiicient sugar mixed with them, they will most
likely be tough. They are sometimes colored with cochineal; and, if kept well-
covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six weeks.

JELLY KISSES.

Basses, to be served for dessert at a large dinner, with other suitable confec-
tionary, may be varied in this way: Having made the kisses, heap them in the
shape of half an egg, placed upon stiff letter-paper lining the bottom of a thick
baking-pan; put them in a moderate oven until the outside is a little hardened;
then take one off carefully, take out the soft inside with the handle of a spoon,
and put it back with the mixture, to make more; then lay the shell down. Take
another and prepare it likewise; fill the shells with currant jelly or jam; join
two together, cementing them with some of the mixture; so continue xmtil you
have enough. Make kisses, cocoanut drops, and such like, the day before they
are wanted.

This recipe will make a fair-sized cake-basket full. It adds much to their
beauty when served up to tint half of them pale pink, then imite white and
pink. Serve on a high glass dish.

COCOANUT MACAROONS.

Make a ^^kiss" mixture, add to it the white meat, grated, and finish as
directed for " Kisses."

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 331

ALMOND MACAROONS.

Half a pound of sweet almonds, a coffee-cupful of white sugar, the whites of
two eggs; blanch the ahnonds and pound them to a paste; add to them the sugar
and the beaten whites of ^ggs; work the whole together with the back of a
spoon, then roll the mixture in your hands in balls about the size of a nutmeg,
dust sugar over the top, lay them on a sheet of paper at least an inch apart.
Bake in a cool oven a light brown.

CHOCOLATE MACAROONS.

Put three ounces of plain chocolate in a pan and melt on a slow fire; then
work it to a thick paste with one pound of powdered sugar and the whites of
three eggs; roll the mixture down to the thickness of about one-quarter of an
inch; coit it in small, round pieces with a paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped:
butter a pan slightly, and dust it with flour and sugar in equal quantities; place
in it the pieces of paste or mixture, and bake in a hot but not too quick oven.

LEMON JELLY. No. i.

Wash and prepare four calf's feet, place them in four quarts of water, and
let them simmer gently five hours. At the expiration of this time take them
out and pour the liquid into a vessel to cool; there should be nearly a quart.
When cold, remove every particle of fat, replace the jelly into the preserving-
kettle, and add one pound of loaf sugar, the rind and juice of two lemons; when
the sugar has dissolved, beat two eggs with their sheUs in one gill of water,
which pour into the kettle, and boil five minutes, or until perfectly dear; then
add one giU of Madeira wine, and strain through a flannel bag into any form
you hke.

LEMON JELLY. No. 2.

To a package of gelatine add a pint of cold water, the juice of four lemons
and the rind of one; let it stand one hour, then add one pint of boiling water, a
pinch of cinnamon, three cups of sugar; let it all come to a bofl; strain through
a napkin into molds; set away to get cold. Nice poured over sUced bananas and
oranges.

WINE JELLY.

One package of gelatine, one cupful of cold water soaked together two hours;
add to this three cupfuls of sugar, the juice of three lemons and the grated rind
of one. Now pour over this a quart of boiling water, and stir until dissolved.

332 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

then add a pint of sherry wine. Strain through a napkin, turn into molds
dipped in cold water, and placed in the ice-box for several hours.

One good way to mold this jelly is to pour some of it into the mold, harden
it a httle, put in a layer of strawberries or raspberries, or any fresh fruit in
season, pour in jelly to set them; after they have set, another layer of jelly, then
another of berries, and so fill each mold, alternating with jelly and berries.

CIDER JELLY.

This can be made the same, by substituting clear, sweet cider in place of the
wine.

ORANGE JELLY.

Orange jelly is a great deUcacy, and not expensive. To make a large dish,
get six oranges, two lemons, a two-ounce package of gelatine. Put the gelatine
to soak in a pint of water, squeeze the orange-juice into a bowl, also the lemon
juice, and grate one of the lemon skins in with it. Put about two cupfuls of
sugar with the gelatine, then stir in the orange- juice, and pour over all three
pints of boiling water, stirring constantly. When the gelatine is entirely dis-
solved, strain through a napkin into molds or bowls wet with cold water, and
set aside to harden. In three or four hours it will be ready for use, and will last
several days.

VARIEGATED JELLY.

After dividing a box of Cox's gelatine into halves, put each half into a bowl
with half a cupful of cold water. Put three-quarters of an oimce or six sheets
of pink gelatine into a third bowl containing three-fourths of a cupful of cold
water. Cover the bowls to keep out the dust, and set them away for two hom«.
At the end of that time, add a pint of boiling water, a cupfvd of sugar, half a
pint of wine, and the juice of lemon to the pink gelatine, and, after stirring till
the gelatine is dissolved, strain the Uquid through a napkin. Treat one of the
other portions of the gelatine in the same way. Beat together the yolks of four
eggs and half a cupful of sugar, and, after adding this mixture to the third
portion of gelatine, stir the new mixture into a pint and a third of boiling nulk,
contained in a double boiler. Stir on the fire for three minutes, then strain
through a fine sieve, and flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Place in
a deep pan two molds, each holding about three pints, and surround them with
ice and water. Pour into these molds, in equal parts, the wine jelly which
was made with the clear gelatine, and set it away to harden. When it has
become set, pour in the pink gelatine, which should have been set away in a

CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 333

place not cold enough to make it harden. After it has been transferred and has
become hard^ pour into the molds the mixture of eggs, sugar and gelatine,
which should be in a liquid state. Set the molds in an ice-chest for three or four
hours. At serving time, dip them into tepid water to loosen the contents, and
gently turn the jelly out upon flat dishes.

The clear jelly may be made first and poured into molds, then the pink jelly,
and finally the egg jelly.

STRAWBERRY JELLY.

Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint of juice allow half a package of
Cox's gelatine.

Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them well with a wooden
spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them nicely, and let them remain
for one hour, that the juice may be extracted; then add half a pint of water ta
every pint of juice. Strain the strawberry juice and water through a napkin;:
measure it, and to every pint allow half a package of Cox's gelatine, dissolved
in a teacupful of water. Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mold, and
set the mold on ice. A Uttle lemon juice added to the strawberry juice improves
the flavor of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be well strained
before it is put vnth the other ingredients, or it will make the jelly muddy.
Delicious and beautifuL

S'*^(^, '^^^If -^^ s^p-^

ICE-CREAM.

One pint of milk, the yolks of two eggs, six ounces of sugar, and one table-
spoonful of com-starch. Scald, but do not boil. Then put the whites of the two
eggs into a pint of cream; whip it. Mix the milk and cream, flavor and freeze.
One teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon is generally sufficient.

The quantity, of course, can be increased to any amount desired, so long as
the relative proportions of the different ingredients are observed.

PURE ICE-CREAM.

Genuine ice-cream is made of the pure sweet cream in this proportion: Two
quarts of cream, one pound of sugar; beat up, flavor, and freeze.

For family use, select one of the new patent freezers, as being more rapid
and less laborious for small quantities than the old style turned entirely by hand.
All conditions being perfect, those with crank and revolving dashers effect freez-
ing in eight to fifteen minutes.

FRUIT ICE-CREAM*

Ingredients. — ^To every pint of fruit- juice allow one pint of cream; sugar to
taste.

Let the fruit be well ripened; pick it off the stalks, and put it into a large
earthen pan. Stir it about with a wooden spoon, breaking it until it is well-
mashed; then, with the back of the spoon, rub it through a hair-sieve. Sweeten
it nicely with pounded sugar; whip the cream for a few minutes, add it to the
fruit, and whisk the whole again for another five minutes. Put the mixture
into the freezer and freeze. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and all fruit ice-
creams, are made in the same manner. A little pounded sugar sprinkled over
the fruit before it is mashed assists to extract the juice. In winter, when fresh
fruit is not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted for it; it should be melted

ICE-CREAM AND ICES. 335

and worked through a sieve before being added to the whipped cream; and if
the color should not be good, a little prepared cochineal may be put in to improve
its appearance.

In making berry flavoring for ice-cream, the milk should never be heated;
the juice of the berries added to cold cream, or fresh, rich milk, mixed with cold
cream, the juice put in just before freezing, or when partly frozen.

CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM. No. i. (Very fine.)

Add f om* ounces of grated chocolate to a cupful of sweet milk, then mix it
thoroughly to a quart of thick, sweet cream; no flavoring is required but vamlla.
Sweeten with a cupful of sugar; beat again and freeze.

CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM. No. 2.

Beat two eggs very light, and cream them with two cupfuls of sugar. Scald
a pint of milk and turn on by degrees, mixing well with the sugar and eggs.
Stir in this half a cupful of grated chocolate; return to the fire, €uid heat until it
(;hickens, stirriag briskly; take off, and set aside to cool. When thoroughly
cold, freeze.

COCOANUT ICE-CREAM.

One quart of cream, one pint of milk, three eggs, one cupful and a half of
sugar and one of prepared cocoanut, the rind and juice of a lemon. Beat
together the eggs and grated lemon-rind, and put with the milk in the double
boiler. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken. Add the cocoanut and put
away to cool. When cool, add the sugar, lemon- juice and cream. Freeze.

CUSTARD ICE-CREAM.

Sweeten one quart of cream or rich milk with half a pound of sugar, and
flavor to taste; put it over the fire in a farina-kettle; as soon as it begins to boil,
stir into it a tablefipoonful of com-starch or rice flour which has been previously
mixed smooth with a little milk; after it has boiled a few minutes, take it off
the fire and stir in very gradually six eggs which have been beaten imtil thick;
when quite cold, freeze it as ice-cream.

STRAWBERRY ICE-CREAM.

MiT a cupful of sugar with a quart of ripe strawberries, let them stand half
a day, then mash and strain them through a coarse towel, then add to the juice
a fuU cupful of sugar, and when dissolved, beat in a quart of fresh, thick cream.
Baspberries, pineapple and other fruits made the same.

33^ ICE-CREAM AND ICES.

FRUIT CREAM.

Make a rich, boiled custard; flavor with wine and vanilla; pour into a freezer.
When half frozen, add pounded almonds, chopped citron and brandy, peiaches
or chopped raisins. Have the freezer half full of custard and fill up with the
fruit. Mix well, and freeze again. Almost any kind of fruits that are pre-
ferred may be substituted for the above.

TUTTI FRUTTI ICE-CREAM.
Take two quarts of the richest cream, and add to it one pound of pulverized
sugar, and four whole eggs; mix well together; place on the fire, stirring con-
stantly, and just bring to boiling point; now remove immediately and continue
to stir until nearly cold; flavor with a tablespoonful of extract of vanilla; place
in freezer and when half frozen, miY thoroughly into it one pound of preserved
fruits, in equal parts of peaches, apricots, gages, cherries, pineapples, etc. ; all
of these fruits are to be cut up into small pieces, and mixed well with the frozen
cream. If you desire to mold this ice, sprinkle it with a little carmine, dissolved
in a teaspoonful of water, with two drops of spirits of ammonia; mix in this
color, so that it will be streaky, or in veins like marble.

ice-cream without a freezer.

Beat the yolks of eight eggs very light, and add thereto four cupfuls of sugar,
and stir well. Add to this, little by little, one quart of rich milk that has been
heated almost to boiling, beating all the while; then put in the whites of eight
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Then boil the mixture in a pail set inside another
containing hot water. Boil about fifteen minutes, or until it is as thick as a
boiled custard, stirring steadily meanwhile. Pour into a bowl to cool. When
quite cold, beat into it three pints of rich sweet cream and five teaspoonf uls of
vanilla, or such other flavoring as you prefer. Put it into a pail having a close-
fitting cover, and pack in pounded ice and salt — roch salt^ not the common kind,
— ^about three-fourths ice and one-fourth salt. When packed, before putting
the ice on top of the cover, beat the custard as you would batter, for five minutes
steady; then put on the cover and put the ice and salt over it, and cover the
whole with a thick mat, blanket or carpet, and let it stand for an hour. Then
carefully uncover and scrape from the bottom and sides of the pail the thick
coating of frozen custard, making every particle dear, and beat again very
hard, until the custard is a smooth, half -congealed paste. Do this thoroughly.
Put on the cover, ice, salt and blanket, and leave it for five or six hours, re-
plenishing the ice and salt if necessary.

— Omtmon Sense in the HaueehobL

ICE-CREAM AND ICES. 337

FROZEN PEACHES.

One can or twelve large peaches, two coffee- cupfuls of sugar, one pint. of
water, and the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiflf froth; break the peaches
rather fine and stir all the ingredients together; freeze the whole into form.

Frozen fruits of any kind can be made the same way; the fruit should be
mashed to a smooth pulp, but not thinned too much. In freezing, care should
be taken to prevent its getting lumpy .

FROZEN FRUITS.

The above recipe, increasing the quantity of peaches, raspberries or whatever
fruit you may use, and adding a small amount of rich cream, make fine frozen
fruits. In freezing, you must be especially careful to prevent its getting lumpy.

LEMON ICE.

The juice of six lemons and the grated rind of three, a large sweet orange,
juice and rind; squeeze out all the juice, and steep in it the rind of orange and
lemons a couple of hours; then squeeze and strain through a towel, add a pint
of water and two cupfuls of sugar. Stir until dissolved, turn into a freezer,
then proceed as for ice-cream, letting it stand longer, two or three hours.

When fruit jelh'es are used, gently heat the water sufficiently to melt them;
then cool and freeze. Other flavors may be made in this manner, varying the
flavoring to taste.

PINEAPPLE SHERBET.

Grate two pineapples and mix with two quarts of water, and a pint of sugar;
add the juice of two lemons, and the beaten whites of four eggs. Place in a
freezer and freeze.

RASPBERRY SHERBET.

Two quarts of raspberries, one cupful of sugar, one pint and a half of water,
the juice of a large lemon, one tablespoonful of gelatine. Mash the berries and
sugar together and let them stand two hours. Soak the gelatine in cold water
to cover. Add one pint of the water to the berries, and strain. Dissolve the
gelatine in half a pint of boiling water, add this to the strained mixture and
freeze.

ORANGE-WATER ICE.

Add a tablespoonful of gelatine to one gill of water; let it stand twenty minutes
and add half a pint of boiling water; stir until dissolved and add four ounces of

338 ICE-CREAM AND ICES.

powdered sugar, the strained juice of six oranges, and cold water enough to
make a full quart in all. Stir until the sugar is dissolved; pour into the freezing
can and freeze (see '^ Lemon Ice. ")

ALMOND ICE.

Two pints of milk, eight ounces of cream, two ounces of orange-flower water,
eight ounces of sweet almonds, four oimces of bitter almonds; pound all in ^
marble mortar, poimng, in, from time to time, a few drops of water; when
thoroughly pounded add the orange-flower water and half of the milk; pass:
this, tightly squeezed, through a doth ; boil the rest of the milk with the
cream, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; as soon as it is thick
enon^, pour in the almond milk; give it one boiling, take it off and let it cool
in a bowl or pitcher, before pouring it into the mold for freezing.

CURRANT ICE.

A refreshing ice is made of currants or raspberries, or equal portions of each.
Squeeze enough fruit in a jelly -bag to make a pint of juice; add a pint each of
the water and sugar; pour the whole, boiling hot, on to three whites of eggs,
beaten to a stiff froth, and whip the mixture thoroughly. When cool, freeze in
the usual manner. Part red raspberry juice is a much finer flavor.

Any juicy fruit may be prepared in this manner.

It depends as much upon the judgment of the cook as on the materials used
to make a good pudding. Everything should be the best in the way of materials,
and a proper attention to the rules, with some practice, will ensure success.

Puddings are either boiled, baked, or steamed; if boiled, the materials should
be well worked together, put into a thick cloth bag, previously dipped in hot
water, wringing it slightly, and dredging the inside thickly with flour; tie it
firmly, allowing room for it to swell; drop it into a kettle of boiling water, with
a smaU plate or saucer in the bottom to keep it from sticking to the kettle. It
should not cease boiling one moment from the time it is put in until taken out,
and the pot must be tightly covered, and the cover not removed except when
necessary to add water from the boiling tea-kettle when the water is getting
low. When done, dip inmiediately in cold water and turn out. This should be
done just before placing on the table.

Or, butter a tin pudding-mold or an earthen bowl; close it tight so that water
cannot penetrate; drop it into boiling water and boil steadily the required time.
If a bowl is used it should be well buttered, and not quite filled with the pud-
ding, allowing room for it to swell; then a cloth wet in hot water, slightly
wringing it, then floured on the inner side, and tied over the bowl, meeting
under the bottom.

To steam a pudding, put it into a tin pan or earthen dish; tie a cloth over the
top, first dredging it in flour, and set it into a steamer. Cover the steamer
closely; allow a httle longer time than you do for boiling.

Molds or basins for baking, steaming or boiling should be well buttered before
the mixture is put into them. Allow a httle longer time for steaming than for
boihng.

Dumphngs boiled the same way, put into httle separate cloths.

Batter puddings shotdd be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To ensure

340 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, the yolks of the
eggs and sugar thoroughly beaten together, and added to this; then add the
remainder of the milk by degrees, then the seasoning, then the beaten whites of
eggs last. Much success in making this kind of pudding depends upon a strict
observance of this rule; for, although the materials may be good, if the eggs
are put into the milk before they are mixed with the floru*, there will be a cus-
tard at the top and a soft dough at the bottom of your dish.

All sweet puddings require a little salt to prevent insipidity and to draw out
the flavor of the several ingredients, but a grain too much will spoil any pudding.

In puddings where wine, brandy, cider, lemon-juice or any acid is used, it
should be stirred in last, and gradually, or it is apt to curdle the milk or eggs.

In making custard puddings (puddings made with eggs and milk\ the yolk
of the eggs and sugar should be thoroughly beaten together before any of the
milk or seasoning is added, and the beaten whites of egg last.

In making puddings of bread, rice, sago, tapioca, etc., the eggs should be
beaten very light, and mixed with a portion of the milk, before adding them to
the other ingredients. If the eggs are mixed with the milk, without having
been thus beaten, the milk will be absorbed by the bread, rice, sago, tapioca,
etc., without rendering them light.

The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as one bad
article will taint the whole mixture.

When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break each one separately in a cup,
before mixing them all together. Should there be a bad one amongst them, it
can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with the good ones, the entire quantity
would be spoiled. The yolks and whites beaten separately make the articles
they are put into much lighter.

Baisins and dried fruits for puddings shoxild be carefully picked, and, in
many cases, stoned. Currants should be well- washed, pressed in a cloth, and
placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they should then be picked
carefully over, and every piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them.
To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water over them, and then dry them
before the fire.

Many baked-pudding recipes are quite as good boiled. As a safe rule, boil
the pudding ttvice as long as you would require to bake it; and remember that a
boiling pudding should never be touched after it is once put on the stove; a jar
of the kettle destroys the lightness of the pudding. If the water boils down and
more must be added, it must be done so carefully that the mold will not hit the
side of the kettle, and it must not be allowed to stop boiling for an instant.

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 341

Batter should never stick to the knife when it is sent to the table; it will do
this both when a less than sufficient number of eggs is mixed with it and when
it is not enough cooked; about four eggs to the half pound of flour will make it
firm enough to cut smoothly.

When baked or boiled puddings are sufficiently sohd, turn them out of the
dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them finely sifted
sugar.

When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet the outsida is
sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white paper until thoroughly
cooked; this prevents them from getting burnt.

TO CLEAN CURRANTS.

Put them in a sieve or colander, and spiinkle them thickly with flour; rub
them well until they are separated, and the flour, grit and fine stems have passed
through the strainer. Place the strainer and currants in a pan of water and
wash thoroughly; then lift the strainer and cmrants together, and change the
water until it is clear. Dry the currants between clean towels. It hardens
them to dry in an oven.

TO CHOP SUET.

Break or cut in small pieces, sprmkle with sifted flour, and chop in a cold
place to keep it from becoming sticky and soft.

TO STONE RAISINS.

Put them in a dish and pour hailing water over them; cover and let them
remain in it ten minutes; it wiU soften so that by rubbing each raisin between
the thumb and finger, the seeds will come out clean; then they are ready for
cutting or chopping if reqiiired.

APPLE DUMPLINGS.

Make a rich biscuit dough, the same as soda or baking-powder biscuit, only
adding a little more shortening. Take a piece of dough out on the molding-
board, roll out almost as thin as pie-crust; then cut into square pieces lai^e
enough to cover an apple. Put into the middle of each piece two apple halves
that have been paired and cored; sprinkle on a spoonful of sugar and a pinch of
gromid cinnamon, turn the ends of the dough over the apple, and lap them
tight. Lay the dumplings in a dripping-pan well buttered, the smooth side
upward. When the pans are filled, put a small piece of butter on the top of
each, sprinkle over a large handful of sugar, turn in a cupful of boiling water.

342 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

then place in a moderate oven for thiee-qnarters of an hour. Baste with the
liquor once while baking. Serve with pudding-sauce or cream and sugar.

BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS.
The same recipe as the above, with the exception that they are put into a
small coarse cloth well-floured after being dipped in hot water. Each doth to
be tied securely, but leaving room enough for the dumpling to swelL Put them
in a pot of boiling water and boil three-quarters of an hour. Serve with sweet
sauce. Peaches and other fruits used in the same manner.

BOILED RICE DUMPLINGS, CUSTARD SAUCE.

Boil half a pound of rice; drain, and mash it moderately fine. Add to it two
ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, half a saltsi)oonful of mixed ground
spice, salt and the yolks of two eggs. Moisten a trifle with a tablespoonful or
two of cre€un. With floured hands shape the mixture into balls, and tie them
in floured pudding-cloths. Steam or boil forty minutes, and send to table with
a custard sauce made as foUows:

Mix together four ounces of sugar and two ounces of butter (slightly
warmed). Beat together the yolks of two eggs and a gill of cream; mix and
pour the sauce in a double sauce-pan; set this in a pan of hot water, and whisk
thoroughly three minutes. Set the sauce-pan in cold water and whisk until the
sauce is cooled.

SUET DUMPLINGS. No. i.

One pint bowl of fine bread-crumbs, one-half cupful of beef suet chopped fine,
the whites and yolks of four eggs beaten separately and very light, one tea-
spoonful of cream tartar sifted into half a cupful of flour, half a teaspoonful of
soda dissolved in a httle water, and a teaspoonful of salt. Wet it all together
with milk enough to make a stiff paste. Flour your hands and make into balls.
Tie up in separate cloths that have been wrung out in hot water, and floured
inside; leave room, when tying, for them to swell. Drop them into hotting
water and boil about three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot^ with wine sauce, or
syrup and butter.

SUET DUMPLINGS. No. 2.

One cupful of suet chopped fine, one cupful of grated English muffins or
bread, one cupful of flour, half a teaspoonful of baking-powder, half a cupful of
sugar, two eggs, one pint of milk, a large pinch of salt. Sift together powder
and flour, add the beaten eggs, grated muffins, sugar, suet and milk; form into
smooth batter, which drop by tablespoonfuls into a pint of boiling milk, three

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 343

or four at a fcime; when done, dish, and pour over them the milk they were
boiled in. A Danish dish; very good.

PRESERVE DUMPLINGS.

Preserved peaches, plums, quinces, cherries or any other sweetmeat; make a
light crust, and roll a small piece of moderate thickness and fill with the fruit
in quantity to make the size of a peach dumpling; tie each one in a dimipling
cloth, well floured inside, drop them into hot water, and boil half an homr; when
done, remove the doth, send to table hot, and eat with cream.

OXFORD DUMPLINGS.

Beat until quite light one tablespoonful of sugar and the yolks of three eggs,
add half a cupful of finely chopped suet, half a cupful of English currants, one
cupful of sifted flour, in which there has been sifted a heaping teaspoonful of
baking-powder, a Uttle nutmeg, one teaspoonful of salt, and lastly, the beaten
whites of the eggs; flour your hands and make it into balls the size of an ^g;
boil in separate cloths one hour or more. Sei-ve with wine sauce.

LEMON DUMPLINGS.

Mix together a pint of grated bread-crumbs, half a cupful of chopped suet,
half a cupful of moist sugar, a Uttle salt, and a small tablespoonful of flour, add-
ing the grated rind of a lemon. Moisten it all with the whites and yolks of two
eggs, well beaten, and the juice of the lemon, strained. Stir it all well together,
and put the mixture into small cups well buttered; tie them down with a cloth
dipped in flour, and boil three-quarters of an hour. Turn them out 0.1 a dish,
strew sifted sugar over them, and serve with wine sauce.

BOILED APPLE PUPPETS.

Three eggs, one pint of milk, a little salt, sufficient flour to thicken as waffle-
batter; one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Fill teacups alter-
nately with a layer of batter, and then of apples chopped fine. Steam one
hour. Serve hot with flavored cream and sugar. You can substitute any fresh
fruit or jams your taste prefers.

COMMON BATTER,

For boiled pudding, frittei*s, etc., is made with one cupful of milk, a pinch of
salt, two eggs, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one cupful of flour, and a
small teaspoonful of baking-powder. Sift the flour, powder and salt together,
add the melted butter, the eggs, well beaten, and the milk; mix into a very
smooth batter, a Uttle thicker than for griddle-cakes.

344 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

ALMOND PUDDING.

Tom boiliiig water on to three-fourths of a pound of sweet almonds; let it
remain until the skin comes off easily; rub with a dry cloth; when dry, pound
fine with one large spoonful of rose-water; beat six ^gs to a stiff froth with
three spoonfuls of fine white sugar; mix with one quart of milk, three spoonfuls
of pounded crackers, four ounces of melted butter, and the same of citron cut
into bits; add almonds, stir all together, and bake in a small pudding-dish with
a lining and rim of pastry. This pudding is best when cold. It will bake in
half an hour in a quick oven.

APPLE PUi>::iNG, BAKED.
Stir two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a cupful of sugar to a cream; stir
into this the yolks of four eggs, weQ beaten, the juice and grated rind of one
lemon, and half a dozen sound, green, tart apples, grated. Now stir in the four
beaten whites of the e^8» season with cinnamon or nutm^; bake. To be
served cold with cream.

BOILED APPLE PUDDING.

Take three eggs, three apples, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, one
lemon, three ounces of sugar, three ounces of ctirrants, half a wine-glassful of
wine, nutm^, butter and sugar for sauce. Pare, core and mince the apple and
mix with the bread-crumbs, nutm^ grated, sugar, currants, the juice of the
lemon, and half the rind grated. Beat the eggs well, moisten the mixture with
these and beat all together, adding the wine last; put the pudding in a buttered
mold, tie it down with a cloth; boil one hour and a half, and serve with sweet
sauce.

BIRDS' NEST PUDDING.

Oore and peel eight apples, put in a dish, fill the places from which the cores
have been taken with sugar and a little grated nutmeg; cover and bake. Beat
the yolks of four eggs light, add two teacupfuls of flour, with three even tea-
spoonfuls of baking-powder sifted with it, one pint of milk with a teaspoonful
of salt; then add the whites of the eggs well beaten, pour over the apples, and
bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve with sauce.

BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. NO. i.

Butter the sides and bottom of a deep pudding-dish, then butter thin slices of
bread, sprinkle thickly with sugar, a little cinnamon, chopped apple, or any fruit
you prefer between each slice, until your dish is full. Beat up two eggs^ add a

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 345

tablespoonful of sifted flour; stir with this three cupfuls of milk and a little salt;
pour this over the bread, let it stand one hour and then bake slowly, with a cover
on, three-quarters of an hoiu*; then take the cover off and brown. Serve with
wine and lemon sauce.

Pie-plant, cut up in small pieces with plenty of sugar, is fine made in this
manner.

BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. No. 2.

Place a layer of stale bread, rolled fine, in the bottom of a pudding dish, then
a layer of any kind of fruit; sprinkle on a little sugar, then another layer of
bread-crumbs and of fruit; and so on xmtil the dish is full, the top layer being
crumbs. Make a custard as for pies, add a pint of milk, and mix. Pour it over
the top of the pudding, and bake until the fruit is cooked.

Stale cake^ crumbed fine, in place of bread, is an improvement.

COLD BERRY PUDDING.

Take rather stale bread— baker's bread or light home-made— cut in thin slices,
and spread with butter. Add a very Uttle water and a httle sugar to one quart
or more of huckleberries and blackberries, or the former alone. Stew a few
minutes until juicy; put a layer of buttered bread in your buttered pudding-
dish, then a layer of stewed berries while hot, and so on until fuU; lastly, a cov-
ering of stewed berries. It may be improved with a rather soft frosting over
the top. To be eaten cold with thick cream and sugar.

APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING.

Put one teacupful of tapioca and one teaspoonf ul of salt into one pint and a
half of water, and let it stand several hours where it will be quite warm, but
not cook; peel six tart apples, take out the cores, fill them with sugar, in which
is grated a little nutmeg and lemon-peel, and put them in a pudding-dish; over
these pour the tapioca, first mixing with it one teaspoonful of melted butter and
a cupful of cold milk, and half a cupful of sugar; bake one hour; eat with sauce.

When fresh fruits are in season, this pudding is exceedingly nice, with dam-
sons, plums, red currants, gooseberries, or apples; when made with these, the
pudding must be thickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar.

Canned or fresh peaches may be used in place of apples in the same manner,
moistening the tapioca with the juice of the canned peaches in place of the cold,
milk. Very nice when quite cool to serve with sugar and cream.

346 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

APPLE AND BROWN-BREAD PUDDING.

Take a pint of brown bread-crumbs^ a pint bowl of chopped apples, mix; add
two-thirds of a cupful of finely chopped suet, a cupful of raisins, one egg, a
tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonf ul of salt. Mix with half a pint of milk,
and boil in buttered molds about two hours. Serve with sauce flavored with
lemon.

APPLE-PUFF PUDDING.

Put half a pound of flour into a basin, sprinkle in a little salt, stir in gradu-
ally a pint of milk; when quite smooth add three eggs; butter a pie*dish, pour
in the batter; take three-quarters of a pound of apples, seed and cut in slices^
and put in the batter; place bits of butter over the top; bake three-quarters of
an hour; when done, sprinkle sugar over the top and serve hot.

PLAIN BREAD PUDDING, BAKED.

Break up about a pint of stale bread after cutting off the crust ; pomr over it
a quart of boiUng milk; add to this a piece of butter the size of a small egg;
cover the dish tight and let it stand until cool; then with a spoon mash it until
fine, adding a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and one of nutmeg grated, half a cupful
of sugar, and one quarter of a teaspoonful of soda^ dissolved in a httle hot water.
Beat up four eggs very light, and add last. Turn all into a well-buttered
pudding-dish, and bake three-quai*ters of an hour. Serve it warm with hard
sauce.

This recipe may be steamed or .boiled; very nice either way.

SUPERIOR BREAD PUDDINGS.

One and one-half cupfuls of white sugar; two cupfuls of fine, dry bread-
crumbs, five eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, vanilla, rose-water or lemon
flavoring, one quart of fresh, rich milk, and half a cupful of jelly or jam. Eub
the butter into a cupful of sugar; beat the yolks very light, and stir these
together to a cream. The bread-crumbs soaked in milk come next, then the
flavoring. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish— a large one, and but two-thirds
full— until the custard is " set." Draw to the mouth of the oven, spread over
with jam or other nice fruit conserve. Cover this with a meringue made of the
whipped whites and half a cupful of sugar. Shut the oven, and bake until the
meringue begins to color. Eat cold, with cream. In strawberry season, substi-
tute a pint of fresh fruit for preserves. It is then delicious. Serve with any
warm sauce.

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 347

BOILED BREAD PUDDING.

To one quart of bread-crumbs, soaked soft in a cup of hot milk, add one cup-
ful of molasses, one cupful of fruit, or chopped raisins, one teaspoonf ul each of
spices, one tablespoonf ul of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda,
about a cupful of flour sifted; boil or steam three hours. Serve with sweet sauce.

ALMOND PUDDING. No. i.

Put two quarts of milk into a double boiler; stir into it two heaping table-
spoonfuls of sifted flour that has been stirred to a cream, with a Uttle of the milk.
When it boils, care should be taken that it does not bum; when cooked, take
from the fire, and let it cool. Take the skins off from two poimds of sweet
almonds, pound them fine, stir them into the milk; add a teaspoonful of salt, a
cupful of sugar, flavoring, and six well-beaten eggs, the yolks and whites beaten
separately. Put bits of butter over the top. Bake one hour. A gill of brandy
or wine improves it.

ALMOND PUDDING. No. 2.

Steep four oimces of crumbs of bread, sHced, in one and one-half pints of
cream, or grate the bread; then beat half a pound of blanched almonds very
fine till they become a paste, with two teaspoonfuls of orange-flower water;
beat up the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four; mix all well together;
put in a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir in three or four ounces of
melted butter; put it over the fire, stirring it until it is thick; lay a sheet of paper
at the bottom of a dish, and pour in the ingredients; bake half an hour. Use
the remaining four whites of egg for a meringue for the top.

BATTER PUDDING, BAKED.

Four eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately, one pint of milk, one tea-
spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, two cupfuls of sifted floinr.
Put the whites of the e^s in last. Bake in an earthen dish that can be set on
the table. Bake forty-five minutes; serve with rich sauce.

BOILED BATTER PUDDING.
Sift together a pint of fiour and a teaspoonful of baking-powder into a deep
dish, sprinkle in a Uttle salt, adding also a tablespoonful of melted butter. Stir
into this gradually a pint of milk; when quite smooth, add four eggs, yolks and
whites beaten separately. Now add enough more flour to make a very stiff
batter. If liked, any kind of fruit may be stirred into this; a pint of berries or

348 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

sliced fruit. Boil two hours. Serve with cream and sugar, wine sauce, or anj
sweet sauce.

CUSTARD PUDDING. No. i.

Take five tablespoonf uls out of a quart of cream or rich milk, and mix them
with two large spoonfuls of fine flour. Set the rest of the milk to boil, flavoring
it with bitter almonds broken up. When it has boiled hard, take it off, strain
it, and stir it in the cold milk and flour. Set it away to cool, and beat well
eight yolks and four whites of eggs; add them to the milk, and stir in, at the
last, a glass of brandy or white wine, a teaspoonful of powdered nutmeg, and
half a cupful of sugar. Butter a large bowl or mold; pom: in the mixture; tie a
cloth tightly over it; put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil it two hours^ re-
plenishing the pot with hot water from a tea-kettle. When the pudding is done,
let it get cool before you turn it out. Eat it with butter and sugar stirred together
to a cream and flavored with lemqn- juice or orange.

CUSTARD PUDDING. No. 2.

Pour one quart of milk in a deep pan, and let the pan stand in a kettle of
boiling water, while you beat to a cream eight eggs and six tablespoonfuls of
fine sugar and a teaspoon of flour; then stir the eggs and sugar into the milk,
and continue stirring until it begins to thicken; then remove the pan from the
boiling water, scrape down the sides, stir to the bottom until it begins to cool,
add a tablespoonful of peach water, or any other flavor you may prefer, pour
into httle cups, and when cold, serve.

custard' puddings.

The recipe for *' Common Cfustard," with the addition of chocolate, grated
banana, or pineapple or cocoanut, makes successfully those different kinds of
puddings.

APPLE CUSTARD PUDDINGS.

Put a quart of pared and quartered apples into a stew-pan, with half a cupful
of water, and cook them until they are soft. Remove from the flre, and add
half a cupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter and the grated rind and the
juice of a lemon. Have ready mixed two cupfuls of grated bread-crumbs, and
two tablespoonfuls of flour; add this also to the apple mixture, after which, stir
in two well-beaten eggs. Turn all into a well-buttered pudding-dish, and bake
forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with sugar and cream or hard
sweet sauce.

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 349

CREAM PUDDING.

Beat the yolks and whites of six eggs well, and stir them into one pint of
flour, one pint of milk, a little salt, and a bit of soda, dissolved in a little water,
the grated rind of a lemon, and three spoonfuls of sugar; just before baking,
stir in one pint of cream, and bake in a buttered dish. Eat with cream.

CREAM MERINGUE PUDDING.

Stir to a cream half a cupful of sugar with the white of one egg and the yolks
of four. Add one quart of milk and mix thoroughly. Put four tablespoonf uls
of flour and a teaspoonf ul of salt into another dish,^ and pour half a cupful of the
milk and egg mixture upon them, and beat very smooth, gradually adding
the rest of the milk and egg mixture. Turn this all into a double boiler sur-
rounded by boiling water; stir this until smooth and thick Uke cream, or about
fifteen minutes; then add vanilla or other extract. Rub all through a strainer
into a well-buttered pudding-dish. Now beat the remaining three whites of
eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually add three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
and spread roughly over the pudding. Cook for twenty minutes in a moderaie
oven. Serve cold.

CORN-STARCH PUDDING.

Reserve half a cupful of milk from a quart, and put the remainder on the
stove in a double boiler. Mix four lai^e tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, and a
teaspoonf ul of salt, with the half -cupful of milk; then stir the mixture into the
boiling milk, and beat well for two minutes. Cover the boiler and cook the
pudding for twelve minutes; then pour it into a pudding-dish., and set in a cool
place for half an horn:. When the time for serving comes, make a sauce in this
manner: Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and beat into this two
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. As soon as the sugar has been well mixed
with the whites, add half of a lai-ge tumbler of currant jelly, or any other bright
jelly, or any kind of preserved fruit may be used. K you pilfer, serve sugar
and cream with the pudding instead of a sauce.

COLD FRUIT PUDDING.

Throw into a pint of new milk the thin rind of a lemon, heat it slowly by the
side of the fire, and keep at the boiling point imtil strongly fiavored. Sprinkle
in a small pinch of salt, and three-quarters of an ounce of the finest isinglass or
gelatine. When dissolved, strain through muslin into a clean sauce-pan with
five ounces of powdered sugar and half a pint of rich cream. Give the whole

350 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

one boil, stir it briskly and add by degrees the weU-beaten yolks of five eggs.
Next thicken the mixture as a custard over a slow fire, taking care not to keep
it over the fire a moment longer than necessary; pour it into a basin and fiavor
with orange-flower water or vanilla. Stir until nearly cold, then add two ounces
of citron cut in thin strips and two ounces of candied cherries. Pour into a
buttered mold. For sauce use any kind of fruit syrup.

CUBAN PUDDING.

Crumble a pound of sponge cakes, an equal quantity, or less if preferred, of
cocoanut, grated in a basin. Pour over two pints of rich cream previously
sweetened with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar and brought to the boiling
point. Cover the basin, and when the cream is soaked up stir in it eight well-
beaten eggs. Butter a mold, arrange four or five ounces of preserved ginger
around it, pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down with a doth. Steam
or boil slowly for an hour and a half; serve with the syrup from the ginger,
which should be warmed and poured over the pudding.

CRACKER PUDDING

Of raspberries, may be made of one large teacupful of cracker-crumbs, one
quart of milk, one spoonful of flour, a pinch of salt, the yolks of three eggs, one
whole egg and half a cupful of sugar. Flavor with vanilla, adding a httle pinch
of salt. Bake in a moderate oven. When done, spread over the top, while hot,
a pint of weU-sugared raspberries. Then beat the whites of the three eggs very
stiff, with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a Uttle lemon extract, or whatever one
prefers. Spread this over the berries, and bake a light brown. Serve with
fruit sauce made of raspberries.

BAKED CORN-MEAL PUDDING, WITHOUT EGGS.

Take a large cupful of yellow meal, and a teacupful of cooking molasses, and
beat them well together; then add to them a quart of boiling milk, some salt
and a large tablespoonful of powdered ginger, add a cupful of finely chopped
suet or a piece of butter the size of an egg. Butter a brown earthen pan, and
turn the pudding in, let it stand until it thickens; then as you put it into the
oven, turn over it a pint of cold milk, but do not stir it, as this makes the jeUy.
Bake three hours. Serve warm with hard sauce-

This recipe has been handed down from mother to daughter for many years
back in a New England family.

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 35 1

BAKED CORN-MEAL PUDDING, WITH EGGS.

One small cupfiil of Indian meaJ, one-half cupful of wheat flour stirred together
with cold milk. Scald one pint of milk, and stir the mixture in it arid cook until
thick; then thin with cold milk to the consistency of batter, not very thick; add
half a cupful of ^ugar, half a. cupful of molasses, two eggs, two tablespoonfuls
of butter, a Uttle salt, a tablespoonful of mixed cinnamon and nutm^, two-
thirds of a teaspoonful of soda added just before putting it into the oven. Bake
two hours. After baking it half an hour, stir it up thoroughly, then finish
baking.

Serve it up hot, eat it with wine sauce, or with butter and syrup.

BOILED CORN-MEAL PUDDING.

Warm a pint of molasses and a pint of milk, stir well together; beat four eggs,
and stir gradually into molasses and milk; add a cupful of beef suet chopped
fine, or half a cupful of butter, and corn-meal sufficient to make a thick batter;
add a teaspoonful of pulverized cinnamon, the same of nutmeg, a teaspoonful
of soda, one of salt, and stir all together thoroughly; dip a cloth into boiling
Water, shake, flour a little, turn in the mixtiu'e, tie up, leaving room for the
pudding to swell, and boil three hours; sei've hot with sauce made of drawn
butter, wine and nutmeg.

BOILED CORN-MEAL PUDDING, WITHOUT EGGS.

To one quart of boiling milk, stir in a pint and a half of Indian meal, well-
Rifted, a teaspoonful of salt, a cupful of molasses, half a cupful of chopped suet,
and a teaspoonful of dissolved soda; tie it up tight in a cloth,*aUowing room for
it to swell, and boil four hours. Serve with sweet sauce.

CORN-MEAL PUFFS.

Into one quart of boiling milk stir eight tablespoonfuls of Indian meal, four
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of nutmeg; let the whole
boil five minutes, stirring constantly to prevent its adhering to the sauce- pan;
then remove it from the fire, and when it has become cool stir into it six eggs,
beaten as light as possible; mix weU, and pour the mixture into buttered teacups,
nearly filling them; bake in a moderate oven half an hour; serve with lemon
sauce.

DELICATE INDIAN PUDDING.

One quart milk^ two heapiug tablespoonfuls of Indian meal, four of sugar,
one of butter, three eggs, one teaspoonful of salt. Boil milk in double boile?\

352 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

sprinkle the meal into it, stirring all the while; cook twelve minutes,, stirring
often. Beat together the ^ggs, salt, sugar and one-half teaspoonful of ginger.
Stir the butter into the meal and milk. Pour this gradually over the egg mix-
tm-e. Bake slowly one hour. Serve with sauoe of heated syrup and butter.

— Maria Parloa.
COTTAGE PUDDING.

One heaping pint of flour, half a cupful of sugar, one cupful of milk, one tea-
spoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, one tablespoonful of butter, two teaqMX)n-
fuls of cream of tartar rubbed dry in the flour; flavor with nutmeg; bake in a
moderate oven; cut in slices and serve warm with wine or brandy sauce, or
sweet sugar sauce.

FRENCH COCOANUT PUDDING. No. i.

One quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, the yolks of four ^gs,
half a cupful of sugar and a little salt; put part of the milk, salt and sugar on
the stove and let it boil; dissolve the corn-starch in the rest of the milk; stir into
the milk, and while boiling add the yolks and a cupful of grated chocolate.
Flavor with vaniUa.

Frosting. — The whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth, half a cupful of
sugar; flavor with lemon; spread it on the pudding, and put it into the oven to
brown, saving a little of the frosting to moisten the top; then put on grated
cocoanut to give it the appearance of snow-flake.

COCOANUT PUDDING. No. 2.

Half a pound of grated cocoanut. Then mix with it half a cupful of stale
sponge-cake, crumbled fine. Stir together imtil very light half a cupful of butter
and one of sugar, add a coj^ee-cupful of rich milk or cream. Beat six eggs very-
light, and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar in turn, with the grated
cocoanut. Having stirred the whole very hard, add two teaspoonfuls of vanilla;
stir again, put into a buttered dish and bake imtil set, or about three-quarters of
an hour. Three of the whites of the eggs covdd be left out for a meringue on
the top of the pudding. Most excellent.

COCOANUT PUDDING. No. 3-
A cup of grated cocoanut put into the recipes of ^^ Cracker Pudding" and
*^ Bread Pudding," makes good cocoanut pudding.

CHERRY PUDDING, BOILED OR STEAMED.

Two eggs, well-beaten, one cupful of sweet milk, sifted flour enough to make
a stiff batter, two large teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a pinch of salt, and as

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 353

many cherries as can be stirred in. Boil one hour, or steam, and serve with
liquid sauce.

Cranberries, currants, peaches, cherries, or any tart fruit is nice used with
this recipe. Serve with sweet sauce.

CHERRY PUDDING. No. 2.

Make a crust or paste of two cupfuls of floui', two teaspoonfuls of baking-
powder, a teaspoonful of salt; wet up with milk or water; roll out a quarter of
an inch thick, butter a large common bowl and line it with this paste, leaving it
large enough to lap over the top; fill it with stoned cherries and half a cupful of
sugar. Gather the paste closely over the top, Sprinkle a httle with dry flour,
and cover the whole with a linen cloth, fastening it with a string. Put it into a
pot of boiling water, and cook for an hour and a half. Serve with sweet sauce.

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. (The Genuine.)
Soak one poimd of stale bread in a pint of hot milk, and let it stand and cool.
When cold, add to it one-half pound of sugar and the yolks of eight eggs beaten
to a cream, one pound of raisins, stoned and floured, one pound of Zante cur-
rants, washed and floured, a quarter of a pound of citron, cut in slips and dredged
with flour, one pound of beef suet, chopped finely, and salted, one glass of wine,
one glass of brandy, one nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of mace, cinnamon and
cloves mixed; beat the whole well together, and, as the last thing, add the
whites of the eight eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; pour into a cloth, previously
scalded and dredged with flour, tie the cloth firmly, leaving room for the pud-
^ng to swell, and boil si x hours. Serve with wine or brandy sauce.
It is best to prepare the ingredients the day before, and cover closely.

CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING. (By Measure.)
One cupful of finely chopped beef suet, two cupfuls of fine bread-crumbs, one
heaping cupful of sugar, one cupful of seeded raisins, one cupful of weU- washed
currants, one cupful of chopped blanched almonds, half a cupful of citron, sliced
thin, a teaspoonful of salt, one of cloves, two of cinnamon, half a grated nut-
meg, and four well-beaten eggs. Dissolve a level teaspoonful of soda in a table-
spoonful of warm water. Flour the fruit thoroughly from a pint of flour; then
mix the remainder as follows: In a large bowl put the well-beaten eggs, sugar,
apices, and salt in one cupful of milk. Stir in the fruit, chopped nuts, bread-
<;rumbs, and suet, one after the other, until aU are used, putting in the dissolved
soda last, and adding enough flour to make the fruit stick together, which will
take all the pint. Boil or steam four hours. Serve with wine or brandy or any
well-flavored sauce.

354 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS,

BAKED PLUM-PUDDING.

It will be found best to prepare the iDgredients the day before and cover
closely. Grate a stale loaf of bread, or enough for a pint of crumbs; boil one
quart of milk, and turn boiling hot over the grated bread; cover and let steep
an hour; in the meantime pick, soak and dry half a pound of currants, half a
pound of raisins, a quarter of a pound of citron cut in large slips, one nutmeg, one
tablespoonful of mace and cinnamon, mixed, one cupful of sugar, with half of a
cupful of butter; when the bread is ready, mix with it the butter, sugar, spice
and citron, adding a glassful of white wine; beat eight eggs very Ught, and
when the mixture is quite cold, stir them gradually in; then add by degrees the
raisins and currants dredged with flour; stir the whole very hard; put it into
a buttered dish; bake two hours, send to the table warm. Eat with wine sauce^
or wine and sugar. Most excellent.

PLiJM.PUDDING, WITHOUT EGGS.

This delicious, light pudding is made by stirring thoroughly together the
following ingredients: One cupful of finely chopped beef suet, two cupfuls of
fine bread-crumbs, one cupful of molasses, one of chopped raisins, one of well-
washed currants, one spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful each of cloves, cinnamon,
allspice, and carbonate of soda, one cupful of milk, and flour enough to make a
stiff batter. Put into a well-greased pudding mold, or a three-quart pail, and
cover closely. Set this pail into a larger kettle, close covered, and half full of
boiling water, adding boiling water as it boils away. Steam not less than four
hours. This pudding is sure to be a success, and is quite rich for one containing
neither eggs nor butter. One-half of the above amount is more than eight
persons would be able to eat, but it is equally good some days later, steamed
again for an hour, if kept closely covered meantime. Serve with wine sauce or
common sweet sauce.

CABINET PUDDING.

Butter weU the inside of a pudding-mold. Have ready a cupful of chopped

citron, raisins and currants. Sprinkle some of this fruit on the bottom of the

mold, then slices of stale sponge cake; shake over this some spices, cinnamon,

cloves and nutmeg, then fruit again and cake, imtil the mold is nearly full.

Make a custard of a quart of milk, f o\ir ^ggs, a pinch of salt, two tablespoonf uls

of melted butter; pour this over the cake, without cooking it; let it stand and

soak one hour; then steam one hour and a half. Serve with wine sauce or a

custard. Seasoned with wine.

— Manhattan Be<zch HoteiL

"W— ■!"

D VMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 355

BAKED CRANBERRY PUDDING.

Pour boiling water on a pint of bread-crumbs; melt a tablespoonful of butter
and stir in. When the bread is softened, add two eggs and beat thoroughly with
the bread. Then put in a pint of the stewed fruit and sweeten to your taste.
Fresh fruit of many kinds can be used instead of cranberries. Slices of peaches
put in layers are delicious. Serve with sweet sugar sauce.

ORANGE PUDDING. No. i.

One pint of milk; the juice of six oranges and the rind of three, eight eggs;

half a cupful of butter, half a cupful of granulated sugar, one tablespoonful

of ground rice, paste to line the pudding-dish. Mix the ground rice with a little

of the cold milk. Put the remainder of the milk in the double boiler, and when

it boils stir in the mixed rice. Stir for five minutes; then add the butter, and

set away to cool. Beat together the sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and whites

of four. Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of the oranges into this. Stir all

into the cooked mixture. Have a pudding-dish holding about three quarts lined

with paste. Pour the preparation into this, and bake in a moderate oven for

forty minutes. Beat the remaining four whites of the eggs to a stiflf froth, and

gradually beat in the powdered sugar. Cover the pudding with this. Betiun

to the oven and cook ten minutes, leaving the door open. Set away to cool. It

must be ice cold when served.

— Maria Parloa.

ORANGE PUDDING. No. 2.

Five sweet oranges, one coffee-cupful of white sugar, one pint of milk, the
yolks of three eggs, one tablespoonful of corn-starch. Peel and cut the oranges
into thin slices, taking out the seeds; pour over them the sugar and let them
stand while you make the rest. Now set the TnilTr in a suitable dish into another
of boiling water, let the milk get boiling hot, add a piece of butter as large as a
nutmeg, the corn-starch made smooth with a little cold milk, and the well-
beaten yolks of the eggs, and a httle flavoring. Stir it all well together until it
is smooth and cooked. Set it off and pour it over the oranges. Beat the whites
to a stifl? froth, adding two tablespoonfuls of sugar, spread over tha top for frost-
ing. Set into the oven a few minutes to brown. Eat cold. Berries, peachea
and other fruits may be substituted.

BAKED LEMON PUDDING. (Queen of Puddings.)
Ingredients. — One quart of milk, two cupfuls of bread-crumbs, four eggB>
whites and yolks beaten separately, butter the size of an egg, one cupful of

:356 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

white sugar, one large lemon— juice and grated rind. Heat the milk and pour
over the bread-crumbs, add the butter, cover and let it get soft. When cool,
beat the sugar and yolks, and add to the mixture, also the grated rind. Bake
in a buttered dish until firm and slightly brown, from a h£df to three-quarters of
an hour. When done, draw it to the door of the oven, and cover with a
meringue made of the whites of the Qggs, whipped to a froth with four table-
^q)oonfuI8 of powdered sugar, and the lemon- juice; put it back in the oven and
brown a light straw color. Eat warm, with lemon sauce.

LEMON PUDDING.
A smaJU cupful of butter, the grated peel of two laige lemons, and the juice
of one; the yolks of ten eggs and whites of five; a cupful and a half of white sugar.
Beat all together, and, lining a deep pudding-dish with puff paste, bake the
lemon pudding in it; while baking, beat the whites of the remaining five ^gs
i;o a stiff froth, whip in fine white sugar to taste, cover the top of the pudding
(when baked) with the meringue, and return to the oven for a moment to
brown; eat cold, it requires no sauce.

BOILED LEMON PUDDING.

Half a cupful of chopped suet, one pint of bread-crumbs, one lemon, one cup-
ful of sugar, one of flour, a teaspoonf ul of salt and two ^;gs, milk. First mix
the suet, bread-crumbs, sugar and flour well together, adding the lemon-peel,
which should be the yellow grated from the outside, and the juice, which should
be strained. When these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with the ^gs
and sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put
it into a well-buttered mold, and boil for three and a half hoiurs; turn it out,
fitrew sifted sugar over and serve warm with lemon sauce, or not, at pleasure.

LEMON PUDDING, COLD.

One cupful of sugar, four eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, two
'tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, one pint of milk, one tablespoonful of butter and
the juice and rind of two lemons. Wet the corn-starch in some of the milk,
then stir it into the remainder of the milk, which should be boiling on the stove,
stirring constantly and briskly for five minutes. Take it from the stove, stir in
the butter and let it cool. Beat the yolks and sugar together, then stir theaoi
thoroughly into the milk and corn-starch. Now stir in the lemon-juice and
grated rind, doing it very gradually, making it very smooth. Bake in a well-
buttered dish. To be eaten cold. Oranges may be used in place of lemons.
This also may be turned while hot into several small cups or forms previously

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 357

dipped in cold water, place them aside; in one hour they will be fit to turn out.
Seire with cream and sugar. Should be boiled all together not baked.

ROYAL SAGO PUDDING.

Three-quarters of a cupful of sago, washed and put into one quart of milk;
put it into a sauce-pan, let it stand in boiling water on the stove or range until
the sago has well-swelled. While hot, put in two tablespoonfuls of butter
with one cupful of white sugar, and flavoring. When cool, add the well-beaten
yolks of four eggs, put in a buttered pudding-dish, and bake from half to three-
quarters of an hour; then remove it from the oven and place it to cool. Beat
the whites of the eggs with three tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar, till
they are a mass of froth; spread the pudding with either raspberry or strawberry
jam, and then spread on the frosting; put in the oven for two minutes to slightly
brown. If made in summer, be sure and keep the whites of the eggs on ice
until ready for use, and beat them in the coolest place you can find, as it will
make a much richer frosting.

The small white sago called pearl is the best. The large brown kind has an
earthy taste. It should always be kept in a covered jar or box.

This pudding, made with tapioca^ is equally as good. Serve with any sweet
sauce.

SAGO APPLE PUDDING.

One cupf til of sago in a quart of tepid water, with a pinch of salt, soaked for
one hour; six or eight apples, pared and cored, or quartered, and steamed tender,
and put in the pudding dish; boil and stir the sago until clear, adding water to
make it thin, and pour it over the apples; bake one hour. This is good hot, with
butter and sugar, or cold with cream and sugar.

PLAIN SAGO PUDDING.

Make the same as " Tapioca Pudding," substituting sago for tapioca.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No. i.

Make a corn-starch pudding with a quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of
corn-starch, and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. When done, remove about half
and flavor to taste, and then to that remaining in the kettle add an egg beaten
very light, and four tablespoonfuls of vanilla chocolate, grated and dissolved in
a little milk. Put in a mold, alternating the dark and hght. Serve with
whipped cream or boiled custard. This is more of a blanc-mange than a pudding.

358 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No. 2.

One quart of s^eet milk^ three-quarters of a cupful of grated chocolate; scald
the milk and chocolate together; when cooly add the yolks of five ^gs, one cup-
ful of sugar; flavor with vanilla. Bake about twenty-five minutes. Beat the five
whites of ^gs to a stiff froth, adding four tablespoonfuls of fine sugar, spread
evenly over the top and brown slightly in the oven.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No. 3-

One quart of milk, fourteen even tablespoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs,
twelve tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, six e^s, one tablespoonful vanilla, sugar
to make very sweet. Se;. arate the yolks and whites of four ^gs, beat up the
four yolks and two whole ^gs together very light with the sugar. Put the
milk on the range, and when it comes to a perfect boil pour it over the bread
and chocolate; add the beaten e^s and sugar and vanilla; be sure it is sweet
enough; pour into a buttered dish; bake one hour in a moderate oven. When
cold, and just before it is served, have the four whites beaten with a little pow-
dered sugar, and flavor with vanilla, and use as a meringue.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No. 4-

Half a cake of chocolate broken in one quart of milk and put on the range
until it reaches boiling point; remove the mixture from the range; add four tea-
spoonfuls of corn-starch mixed with the yolks of three eggs and one cup and a
half of sugar; stir constantly until thick; remove from the fire and flavor with
vanilla; pour the mixture in a dish; beat the whites of the three eggs to a stiff
froth, and add a little sugar; cover the top of the pudding with a meringue, and
set in the oven until a light brown. Serve cold.

TAPIOCA PUDDING.

Five tablespoonfuls of tapioca, one quart of milk, two ounces of butter, a
cupful of sugar, four eggs, flavoring of vanilla or bitter almonds. Wash the
tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk on the back part of the stove for a
quarter of an hour, occasionally stirring it; then let it cool; mix with it the
butter, sugar and eggs, which should be well beaten, and flavor with either of
the above ingredients. Butter a dish, put in the pudding, and bake in a moderate
oven for an hour. K the pudding is boiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it
in a buttered basin one and a half hours.

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 359

STRAWBERRY TAPIOCA.

This makes a most delightful dessert. Soak over night a large teacupful of
tapioca in cold water; in the morning, put half of it in a buttered yellow-ware
baking-dish, or any suitable pudding-dish, Sprinkle sugar over the t-apioca;
then on this put a quart of berries, sugar, and the rest of the tapioca. Fill the
dish with water, which should cover the tapioca about a quarter of an inch.
Bake in a moderately hot oven imtil it looks clear. Eat cold, with cream or
custard. If not sweet enough, add more sugar at table; and in baking, if it
seems too dry, more water is needed.

A similar dish may be made, using peaches, either fresh or canned.

RASPBERRY PUDDING.

One-quarter cupful of butter, one-half cupful of sugar, two cupfuls of jam,
six cupfuls of soft bread-crumbs, four eggs. Rub the butter and sugar
together; beat the eggs, yolks and whites separately; mash the raspberries,
add the whites beaten to a stiff froth; stir all together to a smooth paste;
butter a pudding-dish, cover the bottom with a layer of the crumbs, then a
layer of the mixture; continue the alternate layers imtil the dish is full, making
the last layer of crumbs; bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve in the
dish in which it is baked, and serve with fruit sauce made with raspberries. This
pudding may be made the same with other kinds of berries.

PEAR, PEACH AND APPLE PUDDING.

Pare some nice, ripe pears (to weigh about three-fourths of a poimd); put
them in a sauce-pan with a few cloves, some lemon or orange peel, and stew
about a quarter of an hour in two cupfuls of water; put them in your pudding-
dish, and having made the following custard, one pint of cream, or milk, f oiu*
eggs, sugar to taste, a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of flour; beat eggs and
sugar weU, add the flour, grate some nutmeg, add the cream by degrees, stirring
all the time, — pour this over the pears, and bake in a quich oven. Apples or
peaches may be substituted.

Serve cold with sweetened cream.

FIG PUDDINGS.
Half a pound of good, dried figs, washed, wiped and minced; two cupfuls of
fine, dry bread-crumbs, three eggs, half a cupful of beef suet, powdered, two
scant cupfuls of sweet milk, half a cupful of white sugar, a Kttle salt, half a tea-
spoonful of betking-powder, stirred in half a cupful of sifted flom*. Soak the

360 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

crumbs in milk, add the ^gs, beaten light, with sugar^ salt, suet, flour and figs.
Beat thiee minutes^ put in buttered molds with tight top, set in boiling water
with weight on cover to prevent mold from upsetting, and boil three hours. Eat
hot with hard sauce or butter, powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of extract of
nutmeg.

FRUIT PUDDING, CORN-MEAL-

Take a pint of hot milk, and stir in sifted Indian meal till the batter is stiff;
add a teaspoonful of salt and half of a cup of molasses, adding a teaspoonful of
soda dissolved; then stir in a pint of whortleberries or chopped sweet apple; tie
in a cloth that has been wet, and leave room for it to swell, or put it in a
pudding- pan, and tie a cloth over; boil three hours; the water must boil when
it is put in; you can use cranberries and sweet sauce.

APPLE CORN-MEAL PUDDING.

Pare and core twelve pippen apples; slice them very thin; then stir into one
quart of new milk one quart of sifted corn-meal; add a little salt, then the
apples, four spoonfuls of chopped suet and a teacupful of good molasses, adding
a teaspoonful of soda dissolved; mix these well together; pomr into a buttered
dish, and bake four hours; serve hot, with sugar and wine sauce. This is the
most simple, cheap and luxuriant fruit pudding that can be made.

RHUBARB, OR PIE-PLANT PUDDING.

Chop rhubarb pretty fine, put in a pudding-dish, and sprinkle sugar over it;
make a batter of one cupful of sour milk, two eggs, a piece of butter the size of
^^ ^ggy balf a teaspoonful of soda, and enough flour to make batter about as
thick as for cake. Spread it over the rhubarb, and bake till done. Turn out
on a platter upside down, so that the rhubarb will be on top. Serve with sugar
and cream.

FRUIT PUDDINGS.

Fruit puddings, such as green gooseberry, are very nice made in a basin, the
basin to be buttered and lined with a paste, rolling it round to the thickness of
half an inch; then get a pint of gooseberries and three oimces of sugar; after
having made your paste, take half the fruit, and lay it at the bottom of your
basin; then add half your sugar, then put the remainder of the gooseberries in,
and the remainder of the sugar; on that, draw yotu: paste to the centre, join the
edges well together, put the cloth over the whole, tying it at the bottom, and boil
in plenty of water. Fruit puddings of this kind, such as apples and rhubarb,,
should be done in this manner.

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 361

Boil for an hour, take out of the sauce-pan, untie the cloth, turn out on a
dish, or let it remain in the basin, and serve with sugar over. A thin cover of
the paste may be rolled round and put over the pudding.

Ripe cherries, currants, raspberries, greengages, pliuns and such like frait,
will not require so much sugar, or so long boiling. These puddings are also very
good steamed.

SNOW PUDDING-

One half a package of Cox's gelatine; pour over it a cupful of cold water, and
add one and a half cupfuls of sugar; when soft, add one cupful of boiling water
and the juice of one lemon; then the whites of four well-beaten eggs; beat all
together imtil it is light and frothy, or until the gelatine will not settle clear in
the bottom of the dish after standing a few minutes; put it on a glass dish.
Serve with a custard made of one pint of milk, the yolks of four eggs, four
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon; boil.

DELMONICO PUDDING.

Three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, the yolks of five eggs, six tablespoonfuls
of sugar; beat the eggs light; then add the sugar and beat again till very Ught;
mix the corn-starch with a little cold milk; mix all together and stir into one
quart of milk just as it is about to boil, having added a little salt; stir it until it
has thickened well; pour it into a dish for the table and place it in the oven until
it wiU bear icing; place over the top a layer of canned peaches or other fruit (and
it improves it to mix the syrup of the fruit with the custard part); beat the
whites to a stiflf froth with two tablespoonfuls of white sugar to an egg; then
put it into the oven until it is a light brown.

This is a very delicate and dehcious pudding.

SAUCER PUDDINGS.

Two tablespoonftils of flour, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar^ three
eggs, a teacupful of milk, butter, preserve of any kind. Mix the flour and sugar,
beat the eggs, add them to the milk, and beat up with the flour and sugar.
Butter well three saucers, half fill them, and bake in a quick oven about twenty
minutes. Eemove them from the saucers when cool enough, cut in half, and
spread a thin layer of preserve between each half; close them again, and serve-
with cream.

NANTUCKET PUDDING.
One quart of berries or any small fruit; two tablespoonfuls of flour, two*
tablespoonfuls of sugar; simmer together and turn into molds; cover with frost--

362 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

iDg as for cake, or with whipped ^gs and sugar, farowniDg lightly in the oven;
serve with cream*

TOAST PUDDING.
Toast several thin shoes of stale bread, removing the cmst, butter th^n well,
and poor over them hot stewed fmit in alternate layers. Serve warm with rich
hotsanoe.

PLAIN RICE PUDDING.

Pick over, wash and boil, a teacupfol of rice; when sofl^ drain oS the water;
while warm, add to it a tablespoonfol of cold butter. When cool, mix with it a
cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of grated nutm^, and one of ground cinnamon.
Beat up four ^gs v»y li^t, whites and yolks separately; add them to the rice;
then stir in a quart of sweet milk gradually. Butter a pudding dish, turn in
the mixture, and bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve warm, with sweet
wine sauce.

It you have cold cooked rice, first soak it in the milk, and proceed as above.

RICE PUDDING. (Fine.)

Wash a teacupful of rice, and boil it in two teacupfuls of water; then add,
while the rice is hot, three tablespoonfuls of butter, five tablespoonfuls of sugar,
five ^gs well-beaten, one tablespoonful of powdered nutmeg, a Uttle salt, one
glass of wine, a quarter of a pound of raisins, stoned and cut in halves, a quarter
of a pound of Zante currants, a quarter of a pound of ciiax>n cut in slips, and one
quart of cream; mix well, pour into a buttered dish and bake an hour in a mod-
erate oven.

— Astar Bouse, New York City.

RICE MERINGUE.

One cupful of carefully sorted rice, boiled in water until it is soft; when
done, drain it so as to remove aU the water; cool it, and add one quart of new
milk, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of white sugar,
and a httle nutmeg, or flavor with lemon or vanilla; pour into a baking dish,
and bake about half an hour. Let it get cold; beat the whites of the eggs, add
two tablespoonfuls of sugar, flavor with lemon or vanilla; drop or spread it over
the pudding, and slightly brown it in the oven

RICE LEMON PUDDING.

Put on to boil one quart of milk, and when it simmers stir in foiu* table-
si)Oonfuls of rice flour that has been moistened in a little milk; let it come to a
boil, and remove irom the fire; add one-quarter of a pound of butter, and when

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 363

cool, the grated peel, with the juice of two lemons, and the yolks and beaten
whites of four eggs; sweeten to taste; one wine-glassful of wine, put in the last
thing, is also an improvement.

RICE PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS.

Two quarts of milk, two-thirds of a cupful of rice, a cupful of sugar, a piece
of butter as large as a walnut, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a Uttle nutmeg and a
pinch of salt. Put into a deep pudding-dish, well-buttered, set into a moderate
oven; stir it once or twice until it begins to cook, let it remain in the oven about
two hours (until it is the consistency of cream). Eat cold.

FRUIT RICE PUDDING.

One large teacupful of rice, a Uttle water to cook it partially; dry, line an
earthen basin with part of it; fill nearly full with pared, cored and quartered
apples, or any fruit you choose; cover with the balance of your rice; tie a cloth
tightly over the top, and steam one hour. To be eaten with sweet sauce. Do
not butter your dish.

BOILED RICE PUDDING. No. i.

One cupful of cold, boiled rice, one cupful of sugar, four eggs, a pinch of
soda, and a pinch of salt. Put it all in a bowl, and beat it up until it is very
hght and white. Beat four ounces of butter to a cream, put it into the pudding,
and ten drops of essence of lemon. Beat altogether for five minutes. Butter a
mold, pour the pudding into it, and boil for two hours. Serve with sweet fruit
sauce.

BOILED RICE PUDDING. No. 2.

Wash two teacupfuls of rice, and soak it in water for half an hour; then turn
oflf the water, and mix the rice with half a pound of raisins stoned and cut in
halves; add a httle salt, tie the whole in a cloth, leaving room for the rice to
swell to twice its natural size, and boU two hours in plenty of water; serve with
wine sauce.

RICE SNOW-BALLS.

Wash two teacupfuls of rice, and boil it in one teacupful of water and one of
milk, with a Uttle salt; if the rice is not tender when the milk and water are
absorbed, add a httle more milk and water; when the rice is tender, flavor with
vanilla, form it into balls, or mold it into a compact form with httle cups; place
these rice balls around the inside of a deep disli, fill the dish with a rich soft
custard, and serve either hot or cold. The custard and balls should be flavored
with the same.

364 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

PRUNE PUDDING.

Heat a Utile more than a pint of sweet milk to the boiling point, then stir in
gradually a little cold milk in which you have rubbed smooth a heaping table-
spoonful of corn-starch; add sugar to suit your taste; three well-beaten ^gB>
about a teaspoonful of butter, and a little grated nutm^. Let this come to a
boil, then pour it in a buttered pudding-dish, first adding a cupful of stewed
prunes, with the stones taken out. Bake for from fifteen to twenty minutes,
according to the state of the oveiL Serve with or without sauce. Alittle cream
improves it if poured over it when placed in saucers.

BLACKBERRY OR WHORTLEBERRY PUDDING.

Three cupfuls of flotir, one cupful of molasses, half a cupful of milk, a tea-
spoonful of salt, a little cloves and cinnamon, a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in
a little of the milk. Stir in a quart of huckleberries, floured. Boil in a well-
buttered mold two hours. Serve with brandy sauce.

BAKED HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING.

One quart of ripe, fresh huckleberries or blueberries; half a teaspoonful of
mace or nutmeg, three eggs well beaten, separately; two cupfuls of sugar; one
tablespoonful of cold butter; one cupful of sweet milk, one pint of flour, two
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Boll the berries well in the flour, and add them
last of all. Bake half an hour and serve with sauce. There is no more delicate
and delicious pudding than this.

FRUIT PUDDING.

This pudding is made without cooking and is nice prepared the day before
useci.

Stew currants or any small fruits, either fresh or dried, sweeten with sugar
to taste, and pour hot over thin slices of bread with the crust cut off, placed in
a suitable dish, first a layer of bread, then the hot stewed fruit, then bread and
fruit, then bread, leaving the fruit last. Put a plate over the top and when
cool, set it on ice. Serve with sugar and cream.

This pudding is very fine made with Boston crackers split open, and placed
in layers with stewed peaches.

BOILED CURRANT PUDDING.
Five cupfuls of sifted flour in which two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder have
been sifted. Oue-half a cupful of chopped suet; half a pound of currants, milk,

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 365

a pinch of salt. Wash the currants, dry them thoroughly, and pick away any
stalks or grit; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients together and moisten
with sufficient milk to make the pudding into astiff batter; tie it up in a floured
cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil for three hours and a half. Serve with
jelly sauce made very sweet.

TRANSPARENT PUDDING.

A small cupful of fresh butter warmed, but not melted, one cupful of sifted
sugar creamed with the butter, a teaspoonful of nutmeg, grated, eight ^gs, yolks
and whites beaten separately. Beat the butter and sugar Ught, and then add the
nutmeg and the beaten eggs, which should be stirred in gradually; flavor with
vanilla, almond, peach or rosewater; stir liard; butter a deep dish, line with
puff -paste, and bake half an hour. Then make a meringue for the top, and
brown. Serve cold.

SWEET-POTATO PUDDING.

To a large sweet potato, weighing two pounds, allow half a pound of sugar,
half a pound of butter, one gill of sweet cream, one gill of strong wine or brandy,
one grated nutmeg, a little lemon peel, and four eggs. Boil the potato until
thoroughly done, mash up fine, and while hot add the sugar and butter. Set
aside to cool while you beat the eggs light, and add the seasoning last. Line
tin plates vrith puff -paste, and pour in the mixture. Bake in a moderate but
regularly heated oven. When the puddings are drawn from the fire, cover the
top with thinly sliced bits of preserved citron or quince marmalade. Strew the
top thickly with granulated white sugar, and serve, with the addition of a glass
of rich milk for each person at table.

PINEAPPLE PUDDING.

Butter a pudding-dish and line the bottom and sides with slices of stale cake
{sponge cake is best); pare and sUce thin a large pineapple; place in the dish first
a layer of pineapple, then strew with sugar, then more pineapple, and so on
xmtil all is used. Pour over a small teacupful of water, and cover with sUces of
cake which have been dipped in cold water; cover the whole with a buttered
plate, and bake slowly for two hours.

ORANGE ROLEY POLEY.

Make a Kght dough the same as for apple dumplings, roU it out into a narrow
long sheet, about quarter of an inch thick. Spread thickly over it peeled and
sliced oranges, sprinkle it plentifully with white sugar; scatter over all a tea-
spoonful or two of grated orange-peel, then roll it up. Fold the edges well

366 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

together, to keep the juices from running out. Boil it in a floured doth one hour
and a half. Serve it with lemon sauce. Fine.

ROLEY FOLEY PUDDING. (Apple.)
Peel, core and slice sour apples; make a rich biscuit dough, or raised biscuit
dough may be used if rolled thinner; roll not quite half an inch thick, lay the
slices on the paste, roU up, tuck in the ends, prick deeply with a fork, lay it in a
steamer, and steam hard for an hour and three-quarters. Or, wrap it in a pud-
ding-doth well floured; tie the ends, baste up the sides, plunge into boiling
water, and boil continually an hour and a half, perhaps more. Stoned cherries,
dried fruits, or any kind of berries, fresh or dried, may be used.

FRUIT PUFF PUDDING.

Into one pint of flour stir two teaspoonfuls baking-powder and a little salt;
then sift and stir the mixture into milk, until very soft. Place well-greased
cups in a steamer, put in each a spoonful of the above batter, then add one of
berries or steamed apples, cover with another spoonful of batter, and steam
twenty minutes. This pudding is delicious made with strawberries, and eaten
with a sauce made of two eggs, half a cup butter, a cup of sugar beaten thor-
oughly with a cup of boiling milk, and one cup of strawberries.

SPONGE CAKE PUDDING. No. i.

Bake a conunon sponge cake in a flat-bottomed pudding-dish; when ready to
use, cut in six or eight pieces; split and spread with butter, and return them to
the dish. Make acustard with four eggs to aquart of milk; flavor and sweeten
to taste; pour over the cake, and bake one-half hour. The cake will swell and
fill the custard. Serve with or without sauce.

SPONGE CAKE PUDDING* No. 2.

Butter a pudding-mold: flU the mold with small sponge cakes or shoes of
stale plain cake, that have been soaked in a liquid made by dissolving one-half
pint of jelly in a pint of hot water. This will be of as fine a fiavor and much
better for all than if the cake had been soaked in wine. Make a sufficient quan-
tity of custard to fill the mold, and leave as much more to be boiled in a dish by
itself. Set the mold, after being tightly covered, into a kettle, and boil one
hour. Turn out of the mold, and serve with some of the other custard poured
over it.

GRAHAM PUDDING.

Mix well together one half a coffee-cupful of molasses, one-quarter of a cup-
ful of butter, one egg, one-half a cupful of milk, one-half a teaspoonful of pure

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 367

soda, one and one half cupfuls of good Graham flour, one small teacupf ul of
raisins, spices to taste. Steam fom' hours, and serve with brandy or wine
sauce, or any sauce that may be preferred. This makes a showy as well as a
light and wholesome dessert, and has the merit of simplicity and cheapness.

BANANA PUDDING.

Cut sponge cake in slices, and, in a glass dish, put alternately a layer of cake
and a layer of bananas sliced. Make a soft custard, flavor with a little wine,
and pour over it. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and heap over the
whole.

Peaches cut up, left a few hours in sugar and then scalded, and added when
cold to thick boiled custard, made rather sweet, are a delicious dessert.

DRIED PEACH PUDDING.

Boil one pint of milk and while hot turn it over a pint of bread-crumbs. Stir
into it a tablespoonf ul of butter, one pint of dried peaches stewed soft. When
all is cool, add two weU-beaten eggs, half of a cupful of sugar and a pinch of
salt; flavor to taste. Put into a well-buttered pudding-dish and bake half an
hoxu".

SUET PUDDING, PLAIN.

One cupful of chopped suet, one cupful of milk, two eggs beaten, half a tea*
spoonful of salt, and enough flour to make a stiff batter, but thin enough to pour
from a spoon. Put into a bowl, cover with a cloth, and boil three hom:s. The
same, made a little thinner, with a few raisins added, and baked in a well-
greased dish is excellent. Tv/o teaspoonfuls of baking-powder in the flour
improves this pudding. Or if made with sour milk and soda it is equally as good.

SUET PLUM PUDDING.

One cupful of suet, chopped fine, one cupful of cooking molasses, one cupful
-of milk, one cupful of raisins, three and one-half cupfuls of flour, one egg, one
teaspoonful of cloves, two of cinnamon, and one of nutmeg, a little salt, one tea-
spoonfxil of soda; boil three hours in a pudding-mold set into a kettle of water^
eat with common sweet sauce. If sour milk is used in place of sweet, the pud-
ding will be much lighter.

PEACH COBBLER.

Line a deep dish with rich thick crust; pare and cut into halves or quarters
some juicy, rather tart peaches; put in sugai', spices and flavoring to taste; stew
it slightly, and put it in the lined dish; cover with thick crust of rich puff -paste.

368 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

and bake a rich brown; when done, break up the top crust into small pieces, and
stir it into the fruit; serve hot or cold; very palatable without sauce, but more
so with plain, rich cream or cream sauce, or with a rich brandy or wine. Other
fruits can be used in place of peaches. Currants are best made in this manner:

Press the currants through a sieve to free it from pips; to each pint of the
ptdp put two ounces of crumbed bread and four ounces of sugar; bake with a
rim of puff -paste; serve with cream. White currants may be used instead of red.

HOMINY PUDDING.
Two-thirds of a cupful of hominy, one and a half pints of milk, two eggs,
one tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of extract of lemon or vanilla, one
cupful of sugar. Boil hominy in millr one hour; then pour it on the eggs,
extract and sugar, beaten together; add butter, pour in buttered pudding-dish,
bake in hot oven for twenty minutes.

BAKED BERRY ROLLS.

Boll rich biscuit-dough thin, cut it into little squares four inches wide and
seven inches long. Spread over with berries. Boll up the crust, and put the
rolls in a dripping-pan just a httle apart; put a piece of butter on each roU,
spices if you like. Strew over a large handful of sugar, a little hot water. Set
in the oven and bake tike dumplings. Served with sweet sauce.

GREEN-CORN PUDDING.

Take two dozen full ears of sweet green com, score the kernels and cut them
from the cob. Scrape off what remains on the cob with a knife. Add a pint
and a half or one quart of milk, according to the yoimgness and juiciness of the
com. Add four ^ggs well beaten, a half teacupful of flour, a half teacupful of
butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, and salt to taste. Bake in a well-greased
earthen dish, in a hot oven, two hours. Place it on the table browned and
smoking hot, eat it with plenty of fresh butter. This can be used as a
dessert, by serving a sweet sauce with it. If eaten plainly with butter, it
answers as a side vegetable.

GENEVA WAFERS.

Two %gs, three ounces of butter, three ounces of flour, three ounces of
poimded sugar. WeU whisk the eggs, put them into a basin, and stir to them the
butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted sugar gradu-
ally, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet, and drop on it a
teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space between each. Bake in
a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when half done, roll them up like

DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 369

wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread or piece of wood, to keep them in
shape. Betum them to the oven until crisp. Before serving, remove the bread,
put a spoonful of preserve in the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream.
This is a very pretty and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice,
and very easily made.

MINUTE PUDDING. No. i.

Set a sauce-pan or deep frying-pan on the stove, the bottom and sides weU
buttered, put into it a quart of sweet milk, a pinch of salt, and a piece of butter
as large as half an egg; when it boils have ready a dish of sifted flour, stir it
into the boiling milk, sifting it through your fingers, a handful at a time, until
it becomes smooth and quite thick. Turn it into a dish that has been dipped in
water. Make a sauce very sweet to serve with it. Maple molasses is fine with
it. This pudding is much improved by adding canned berries or fresh ones just
before taking from the stove.

MINUTE PUDDING. No. 2.

One quart of milk, salt, two eggs, about a pint of flour. Beat the eggs well;
add the flour and enough milk to make it smooth. Butter the sauce-pan and
put in the remainder of the milk well salted ; when it boils, stir in the flour,
eggs, etc., lightly; let it cook well. It should be of the consistency of thick com
mush. Serve immediately with the following simple sauce, mz : Eich milk or
cream sweetened to taste, and flavored with grated nutmeg.

SUNDERLAND PUDDING.

One cupf Til of sugar, half a cupful of cold butter, a pint of milk, two cupfuls
of sifted flour, and five eggs. Make the milk hot; stir in the butter, and let it
cool before the other ingredients are added to it; then stir in the sugar, flour,
and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites of two; flavor
with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture well. Butter some small
cups, rather more than half fill them; bake from twenty minutes to half an
hour, according to the size of the puddings, and serve with fruit, custard or
wine sauce, a little of which may be poured over them. They may be dropped
by spoonfuls on buttered tins, and baked, if cups are not convenient.

JELLY PUDDINGS.

Two cupfuls of very fine, stale biscuit or bread crumbs; one cupfol of rich
milk— half cream, if you can get it; five e^s, beaten very light; half a tea-
spoonful of soda, stirred in boiling water; one cupful of sweet jelly, jam or mar-
malade. Scald the milk and pour over the crumbs. Beat until half cold, and

370 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS.

stir in the beaten yolka, then whites, finally the soda. Fill large cups half full
with the batter; set in a quick oven and bake half an hour. When done, turn
out quickly, and dexterously; with a sharp knife make an incision in the side of
eacii; pull partly open, and put a liberal spoonful of the conserve within. Close
the slit by pinching the edges with your fingers. Eat warm with sweetened
cream.

QUICK PUDDING.

Soak and split some crackers; lay the surface over with raisins and citron;
put the halves together, tie them in a bag, and boil fifteen minutes in millr and
water: delicious with rich sauce.

READY PUDDING.

Make a batter of one quart of milk, and about one pound of flour; add six
eggs, the yolks and whites separately beaten, a teaspoonful of salt and four
tablespoonfuls of sugar. It should be as stiff as can possibly be stirred with a
six>on. Dip a spoonful at a time into quick boiling water, boil from five to ten
minutes, take out. Serve hot with sauce or syrup.

A ROYAL DESSERT.

Cut a stale cake into slices an inch and a half in thickuess; pour over them
a little good, sweet cream; then fry lightly in fresh butter in a smooth frying-
pan; when done, place over each slice of cake a layer of preserves; or, you may
make a rich sauce to be served with it.

Another dish equally as good, is to dip thin slices of bread into fresh milk;
have ready two eggs well-beaten; dip the slices in the egg, and fry them in
butter to a Ught brown; when fried, pour over them a syrup, any kind that you
choose, and serve hot.

HUCKLEBERRIES WITH CRACKERS AND CREAM.

Pick over carofully one quart of blueberries, and keep them on ice until
wanted. Put into each bowl, for each guest, two soda-crackers, broken in not
too small pieces; add a few tablespoonfuls of berries, a teaspoonful of powdered
sugar, and fill the bowl with the richest of cold, sweet cream. This is an old-
fashioned New England breakfast dish. It also answers for a dessert.

BRANDY SAUCE, COLD.

Two cupfuls of powdered sugar, half a cupful of butter, one wine-glassful of
brandy, cinnamon and nutmeg, a teaspoonful of each. Warm the butter
slightly, and work it to a light cream with the sugar, then add the brandy and
spices; beat it hard and set aside until wanted. Should be put into a mold to
look nicely, and serve on a flat dish.

BRANDY OR WINE SAUCE. No. i.

Stir a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch in a Uttle cold water to a smooth
paste (or instead use a tablespoonful of sifted flour); add to it a cupful of boiling
water, with one cupful of sugar, a piece of butter as large as an egg, boil all
together ten minutes. Bemove from the fire, and when cool, stir into it half of
a cupful of brandy or wine. It should be about as thick as thin syrup.

RICH WINE SAUCE. No. 2.

One cupful of butter, two of powdered sugar, half a cupful of wine. Beat
the butter to a cream. Add the sugar gradually, and when very light add the
wine, which has been made hot, a little at a time, a teaspoonful of grated nut-
meg. Place the bowl in a basin of hot water, and stir for two minutes. The
sauce should be smooth and foamy.

BRANDY OR WINE SAUCE- No- j

Take one cupful of butter, two of powdered sugar, the whites of two eggs,
five tablespoonf uls of sherry wine or brandy, and a quarter of a cupful of boiling
water. Beat butter and sugar to a cream, add the whites of the eggs, one at a
time, unbeaten, and then the wine or brandy. Place the bowl in hot water, and
stir till smooth and frothy.

3 72 SA UCES FOR PUDDINGS,

SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING. (Superior.)
Cream together a cupful of sugar and half a cupful of butter; when light
and creamy, add the weU-beaten yolks of four eggs. Stir into this one wine-
glass of wine or one of brandy, a pinch of salt and one large cupful of hot cream
or rich milk. Beat this mixture well; place it in a sauce-pan over the fire, stir
it until it cooks sufficiently to thicken like cream. Be sure and not Ist it boiL
DeUcious.

LIQUID BRANDY SAUCE.
Brown over the fire three tablespoonfuls of sugar; add a cupful of water, six
whole cloves and a piece of stick cinnamon, the yellow rind of a lemon cut very
thin; let the sauce boil, strain while hot, then pour it into a sauce bowl contain-
ing the juice of the lemon and a cup of brandy. Serve warm.

GRANDMOTHER'S SAUCE.
Cream together a cupful of sifted sugar and half a cupful of butter, add a
teaspoonful of ground cinnamon and an egg well beaten. Boil a teacupful of
milk and turn it, boiling hot, over the mixture slowly, stirring all the time; this
will cook the egg smoothly. It may be served cold or hot.

SUGAR SAUCE.

One coffee-cupful of granulated sugar, half of a cupful of water, a piece of
butter the size of a walnut. Boil all together until it becomes the consistency of
syrup. Flavor with lemon or vanilla extract. A tablespoonful of lemon-juice
is an improvement. Nice with cottage pudding.

LEMON SAUCE.

One cupful of sugar, half a cupful of butter, one egg beaten light, one lemon,
juice and grated lind, half a cupful of boiling water; put in a tin basin and
thicken over steam.

LEMON CREAM SAUCE, HOT.

Put half a pint of new milk on the fire, and when it boils stir into it one tea-
spoonful of wheat flour, fotu: ounces of sugar and the weU-beaten yolks of three
eggs; remove it from the fire and add the grated rind and the juice of one lemon;
stir it weU, and serve hot in a sauce tureen.

ORANGE CREAM SAUCE, HOT.

This is made as " Lemon Cream Sauce," substituting orange for lemon.
Creams for puddings, pies and fritters, may be made in the same manner

SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 373

with any other flavoring; if flour is used in malring them^ it should boil in the
mUk three or four minutes.

COLD LEMON SAUCE.

Beat to a cream one teacupful of butter and two teacupfuls of fine white sugar;
then stir in the juice and grated rind of one lemon; grate nutmeg upon the
sauce, and serve on a flat dish.

COLD ORANGE SAUCE.

Beat to a cream one teacupful of butter and two teacupfuls of fine white sugar;
then stir in the grated rind of one orange and the juice of two; stir until all the
orange- juice is absorbed; grate nutmeg upon the sauce^ and serve on a flat dish.

COLD CREAM SAUCE.

Stir to a cream one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of butter, then add a cupful
of sweet, thick, cold cream, flavor to taste. Stir weD, and set it in a cool place.

CREAM SAUCE, WARM.
Heat a pint of cream slowly in a double boiler; when nearly boihng, set it off
from the fire, put into it half a cupful of sugar, a Uttle nutmeg or vanilla extract;
stir it thoroughly, and add, when cool, the whites of two well-beaten eggs. Set
it on the fire in a dish containing hot water to keep it warm until needed, stir-
ring once or more.

CARAMEL SAUCE.

Place over the fire a sauce-pan; when it begins to be hot, put into it four
tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and one tablespoonful of water. Stir it continu-
ally for three or four minutes, until all the water evaporates; then watch it
carefully until it becomes a delicate brown color. Have ready a pint of cold
water and cup of sugar mixed with some flavoring; turn it into the sauce-pan
with the browned sugar, and let it simmer for ten minutes; then add half a glass
of brandy or a glass of wine. The wine or brandy may be omitted if preferred.

A GOOD, PLAIN SAUCE.

A good sauce to go with plain fruit puddings is made by mixing one cupful
of brown sugar, one cupful of best molasses, half a cupful of butter, one large
teaspoonful of flour; add the juice and grated rind of one lemon, half a nutmeg,
grated, half a teaspoonful of cloves and cinnamon. When these are all stirred
together, add a teacupful of boiling water; stir it constantly, put into a sauce-
pan and let it boil imtil clear; then strain.

374 SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS.

OLD-STYLE SAUCE.
One pint of sour cream, the juice and finely grated rind of a large lemon;
sugar to taste. Beat hard and long until the sauce is very light. This is delic-
ious with cold " Brown Betty " — ^a form of cold farina^ com-starch, blanc-mange,
and the like.

PLAIN COLD, HARD SAUCE.
Stir together one cupful of white sugar, and half a cupful of butter, imtil it
is creamy and hght; add flavoring to taste. This is very nice, flavored with the
juice of raspberries or. strawberries, or beat into it a cupful of ripe strawberries
or raspberries and the white of an egg, beaten stiff.

CUSTARD SAUCE.

One cupful of sugar, two beaten eggs, one pint of milk, flavoring to taste,
brandy or wine, if preferred.

Heat the milk to boiling, add by degrees the beaten eggs and sugar, put in
the flavoring, and set within a pan of boiling water; stir until it begins to
thicken; then take it off, and stir in the brandy or wine gradually; set, until
wanted, within a pan of boiling water.

MILK SAUCE. No. i.

Dissolve a tablespoonful of flour in cold milk; see that it is free from lumps.
Whisk an oimce of butter and a cupful of sugar to a cream, and add to it a
pinch of salt. Mix together half a pint of milk, one egg, and the flour; stir this
into the butter, and add a dash of nutmeg, or any flavor; heat imtil near the
boiling point, and serve. Very nice in place of cold cream.

MILK OR CREAM SAUCE.

Cream or rich milk, simply sweetened with plenty of white sugar and flavored,
answers the purpose of some kinds of pudding, and can be made very quickly.

FRUIT SAUCE.

Two thirds of a cupful of sugar, a pint of raspberries or strawberries, a table-
spoonful of melted butter and a cupful of hot water. Boil all together slowly,
removing the scum as fast as it rises; then strain through a sieve. This is
very good served with dumplings or apple puddings.

JELLY SAUCE.
Melt two tablespoonfuls of sugar and half a cupful of jelly over the flre in a
cupful of boiling water, adding also two tablespoonfuls of butter; then stir into

SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 375

it a teaspoonful of com-starch, dissolved in half a cupful of water or wine; add
it to the jelly^ and let it come to a boil. Set it in a dish of hot water to keep it
warm until time to serve; stir occasionally. Any fruit jelly can be used.

COMMON SWEET SAUCE.

Into a pint of water stir a paste made of a tablespooonful of com-starch or
flour (rubbed smooth with a little cold water); add a cupful of sugar and a table-
spoonful of vinegar. Cook well for three minutes. Take from the fire and add
a piece of butter as large as a small egg; when cool, flavor with a tablespoonful
of vanilla or lemon extract.

SYRUP FOR FRUIT SAUCE.

An excellent syrup for fruit sauce is made of MoreUo cherries (red, sour
cherries). For each pound of cherry juice, allow half a poimd of sugar and six
cherry kernels ; seed the chenies and let them stand in a bowl over night ; in
the morning, press them through a fine cloth which has been dipped in boiling
water ; weigh the juice, add the sugar, boil fifteen minutes, removing all the
scum. Fill small bottles that are perfectly dry with the syrup; when it is cold,
cork the bottles tightly, seal them and keep them in a cool place, standing
upright.

Most excellent to put into pudding sauces.

ROSE BRANDY. (For Cakes and Puddings.)

Gather the leaves of roses while the dew is on them, and as soon as they
open, put them into a wide-mouthed bottle, and when the bottle is full, pour in
Ihe best of fourth proof French brandy.

It will be fit for use in three or four weeks, and may be frequently replenished.
It is sometimes considered preferable to wine as a fiavoring to pastries and pud-
ding sauces.

LEMON BRANDY. (For Cakes and Puddings.)

When you use lemons for punch or lemonade, do not throw away xne peels,
but cut them in small pieces — the thin yellow outside (the thick part is not good),
and put them in a glass jar or bottle of brandy. You will find this brandy useful
for many purposes.

In the same way keep for use the kernels of peach and plum stones, pound-
iug them slightly before you put them into the brandy.

Fruit for preserving should be sound and free from all def ects, using white
sugar^ and also that which is dry, which produces the nicest syrup; dark sugar
can be used by being clarified, which is done by dissolving two pounds of sugar
in a pint of water; add to it the white of an egg> and beat it weU, put it into a
pUBserving kettle on the fire, and stir with a wooden spoon. As soon as it begins
to swell and boil up, throw in a little cold water; let it boil up again, take it off,
and remove the scum; boil it again, throw in more cold water, and remove the
scum; repeat until it is clear and pours like oil from the spoon.

In the old way of preserving, we used pound for pound, when they were kept
in stone jars or crocks; now, as most preserves are put up in sealed jars or cans,
less sugar seems sufficient; three-quarters of a pound of sugar is generally all
that is required for a pound of fruit.

Fruit should be boiled in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware dish, if possible;
but other utensils, copper or metal, if made bright and clean, answer as welL

Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be converted into
dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup, and then drying them in a
stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a quantity of powdered loaf siigar,
which will gradually penetrate the fruit, while the fluid parts of the sjrrup gently
evaporate. They should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned
every six or eight hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time
they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept in a dry situation, in drawers
or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, in bunches,
are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavor. In this way it is, also, that
orange and lemon chips are preserved.

Mold can be prevented from forming on fruit jellies by pouring a little melted
paraffine over the top. When cool, it vnll harden to a solid cake, which can be
easily removed when the jelly is used, and saved to use over again another year.
It is perfectly harmless and tasteless. <

PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 377

Large glass tumblers axe the best for keeping jellies, much better than large
vessels, for by being opened frequently they soon spoil; a paper should be cut to
fit, and placed over the jelly; then put on the Ud or cover, with thick paper
rubbed over on the inside with the white of an egg.

There cannot be too much care taken in selecting fruit for jellies, for if the
fruit is over ripe, any amount of time in boiling will never make it jelly, — there
is where so many fail in making good jelly; and another important matter is
overlooked— that of carefully skimming oflf the juice after it begins to boil and
a scum rises from the bottom to the top; the juice should not be stuTed, but the
scum carefully taken off: if allowed to boil imder, the jelly wiU not be clear.

When either preserves or canned fruits show any indications of fermenta-
tion, they should be immediately reboiled with more sugar, to save them. It is
much better to be generous with the sugar at first, than to have any losses after-
wards. Keep all preserves in a cool, dry closet.

PRESERVED CHERRIES.

Take large, ripe Morella cherries; weigh them, and to each pound allow a
pound of loaf sugar. Stone the cherries, (opening them vdth a sharp quill,) and
save the juice that comes from them in the process. As you stone them, throw
them into a large pan or tureen, and strew about half the sugar over them, and
let them lie in it an hour or two after they are all stoned. Then put them into
a preserving-kettle with the remainder of the sugar, and boil and skim them till
the fruit is dear and the syrup thick.

PRESERVED CRANBERRIES.

The cranberries must be large and ripe. Wash them, and to six quarts of
cranberries allow nine pounds of the best loaf sugar. Take three quarts of the
cranberries, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and a half of water.
Cover the pan, and boil or stew them till they are all to pieces. Then squeeze
the juice through a jelly bag. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, pom: the
cranberry juice over it, and let it stand until it is all melted, stirring it up fre-
quently. Then place the kettle over the fire, and put in the remaining three
quarts of whole cranberries. Let them boil tiU they are tender, clear, and of a
bright color, skinmiing them frequently. When done, put them warm into jars
with the syrup, which should be like a thick jelly.

PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES.
For every pound of fruit weigh a pomid of refined sugar, put them with the
sugar over the fire in a porcelain kettle, bring to a boil slowly about twenty

378 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC.

minutes. Take them out carefully with a perforated skimmer, and fill your hot
jars nearly full; boil the juice a few minutes longer, and fiD up the jars; seal
them hot. Keep in a cool, dry place.

TO PRESERVE BERRIES WHOLE. (Excellent)

Buy the fruit when not too ripe^ pick over immediately, wash if absolutely
necessary, and put in glass jars, filling each one about two-thirds full.

Put in the preserving kettle a pound of sugar and one cupful of water for
every two pounds of fruit, and let it come slowly to a boil. Pour this syrup into
the jars over the berries, filling them up to the brim; then set the jars in a pot
of cold water on the stove, and let the water boil and the fruit become scalding
hot. Now take them out and seal perfectly tight. If this process is followed
thoroughly, the fruit will keep for several years.

PRESERVED EGG PLUMS.

Use a pound of sugar for a pound of plums; wash the plums, and wipe dry;
put the sugar on a slow fire in the preserving-kettle, with as much water as
will melt the sugar, and let it simmer slowly; then prick each plum thoroughly
with a needle, or a fork with fine prongs, and place a layer of them in the syrup;
let them cook xmtil they lose their color a Uttle and the skins begin to break;
then lift them out with a perforated skimmer, and place them singly in a large
dish to cool; then put another layer of plums in the syrup, and let them cook
and cool in the same manner, until the whole are done; as they cool, carefully
replace the broken skins so as not to spoil the appearance of the plums; when
the last layer is finished, retiun the first to the kettle, and boil until transparent;
do the same with each layer; while the latest cooked are cooling, place the first
in glass jars; when all are done, pour the hot syrup over them; when they are
cold, close as usual; the jelly should be of the color and consistency of rich wine
jeUy.

Peaches for preserving may be ripe but not soft; cut them in halves, take out
the stones, and pare them neatly; take as many pounds of white sugar as of
fruit, put to each pound of sugar a teacupful of water; stir it until it is dissolved;
set it over a moderate fire; when it is boiling hot, put in the peaches; let them
boil gently until a pure, dear, uniform color; turn those at the bottom to the top
carefully with a skimmer several times; do not hurry them. When they are
dear, take each half up with a spoon, and spread the halves on flat dishes to
become cold. When all are done, let the syrup boil until it is quite thick; pour it

PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 379

into a laige pitcher, and let it set to cool and settle. When the peaches are cold
put them carefully into jars, and pour the syrup over them, leaving any sedi-
ment which has settled at the bottom, or strain the syrup. Some of the kernels
from the peach-stones may be put in with the peaches while boiling. Let them
remain open one night, then cover.

In like manner quince, plum, apricot, apple, cherry, greengage and other
fruit preserves are made; in every case fine large fruit should be taken, free
from imperfections, and the sUghtest bruises or other fault should be removed.

PRESERVED GREEN TOMATOES.

Take one peck of green tomatoes. Slice six fresh lemons without removing
the skins, but taking out the seeds; put to this quantity six pounds of sugar,
common white, and boil until transparent and the syrup thick. Ginger root
may be added, if liked.

PRESERVED APPLES. (Whole.)

Peel and core large firm apples (pippins are best). Throw them into water
as you pare them. Boil the parings in water for fifteen minutes, aUowing a
pint to one i)ound of fruit. Then strain, and, adding three-quarters of a pound
of sugar to each pint of water, as measured at first, with enough lemon-peel,
orange-peel or mace, to impart a pleasant flavor, return to the kettle. When
the syrup has been weU-skimmed and is clear, pour it boiling hot over the
apples, which must be drained from the water in which they have hitherto
stood. Let them remain in the syrup until both are perfectly cold. Then,
covering closely, let them simmer over a slow fire xmtil transparent. When all
the minutisB of these directions are attended to, the fruit will remain imbroken,
and present a beautiful and inviting appearance.

PRESERVED QUINCES.

Pare, core and quarter yom: fruit, then weigh it and allow an equal quantity
of white sugar. Take the parings and cores, and put in a preserving-kettle;
cover them with water and boil for half an hour; then strain through a hair
sieve, and put the juice back into the kettle and boil the quinces in it a Uttle at a
time until they are tender; lift out as they are done with a drainer and lay on
a dish; if the liquid seems scarce add more water. When all are cooked, throw
into this liquor the sugar, and aUow it to boil ten minutes before putting in the
quinces; let them boil until they change color, say one hour and a quarter, on a
slow fire; while they are boiling occasionally slip a silver spoon under them to
see that they do not bum, but on no account stir them. Have two fresh lemons

38o PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC.

cut in thin slices^ and when the &uit is being put in jars lay a slice or two in eacK
Quinces may be steamed until tender.

PRESERVED PEARS.

One pound of fruit, one pound of sugar; pare off the peeling thin. Make a
nice syrup of nearly one cupful of water and one pound of sugar, and when
clarified by boiling and fllrimnm'Tig put in the pears and stew gently until dear.
Choose rather pears like the SecMe for preserving, both on account of the flavor
and size. A nice way is to stick a dove in the blossom end of each pear, for
this fruit seems to require some extraneous flavor to bring out its own piquancy.
Another acceptable addition to pear preserves may be found instead, by adding
the juice and thinly pared rind of one lemon to each five pounds of fruit. If the-
pears are hard and tough, parboil them until tender before begiiming to pre-
serve, and from the same water take what you need for making their syrup.

If you can procure only large pears to preserve, cut them into halves, or even
slices, so that they can get done more quickly, and lose nothing in appearance,,
either.

PINEAPPLE PRESERVES.

Twist off the top and bottom, and pare off the rough outside of pineapples^
then weigh them and cut them in slices, chips or quarters, or cut them in four
or six, and shape each piece like a whole pineapple; to each pound of fruit, put a
teacupful of water; put it in a preserving kettle, cover it and set it over the
fire, and let them boil gently xmtil they are tender and clear; then take them
from the water, by sticking a fork in the centre of each slice, or with a skimmer,
into a dish.

Put to the water white sugar, a pound for each pound of fruit; stir it until it
is all dissolved; then put in the pineapple, cover the kettle, and let them boil
gently until transparent thoughout; when it is so, take it out, let it cool, and
put it in glass jars; let the syrup boil or simmer gently until it is thick and rich,,
and when nearly cool, pour it over the fruit. The next day secure the jars, aa
before directed.

Pineapple done in this way is a beautiful and delidous preserve. The usual
manner of preserving it, by putting it into the syrup without first boiling it»
makes it little better than sweetened leather.

TO PRESERVE WATERMELON RIND AND CITRON.

Pare off the green skin, cut the watermelon rind into pieces. Weigh the
pieces, and allow to each poimd a pound and a half of loaf sugar. line your

PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 38 1

kettle with green vine-leaves, and put in the pieces vnihovi the sugar. A layer
of vine-leaves must cover each layer of melon rind. Pour in water to cover the
whole, and place a thick cloth over the kettle. Simmer the fruit for two hours,
after scattering a few bits of alum amongst it. Spread the melon rind on a dish
to cool. Melt the sugar, using a pint of water to a poimd and a half of sugar,
and mix with it some beaten white of egg. Boil and skim the sugar. When
quite clear, put in the rind, and let it boil two hours; take out the rind, boil
the syrup again, pour it over the rind, and let it remain all night. The next
morning, boil the syrup with lemon-juice, allowing one lemon to a quart of
syrup. When it is thick enough to hang in a drop from the point of a spoon, it
is done. Put the rind in jars, and pour over it the syrup. It is not fit for use
immediately.

Citrons may be preserved jn the same manner, first paring off the outer skin,
and cutting them into quarters. Also green limes.

TO PRESERVE AND DRY GREENGAGES.

To every pound of sugar allow one pound of fruit, one quarter pint of water.

For this purpose, the fruit must be used before it is quite ripe, and part of
the stalk must be left on. Weigh the fruit, rejecting all that is in the least
degree blemished, and put it into a lined sauce-pan with the sugar and water,
which should have been previously boiled together to a rich syrup. Boil the.
fruit in this for ten minutes, remove it from the fire, and drain the greengages.
The next day boil up the syrup and put in the fruit again, let it sinuner for
three minutes, and drain the syrup away. Continue this process for five or
six days, and the last time place the greengages, when drained, on a hair-sieve,
and put them in an oven or warm spot to dry; keep them in a box, with paper
between each layer, in a place free from damp.

PRESERVED PUMPKINS.

To each pound of pumpkin allow one pound of roughly pounded loaf sugar,
one giU of lemon- juice.

Obtain a good, sweet pumpkin; halve it, take out the seeds, and pare off the
rind; cut it into neat sUces. Weigh the pumpkin, put the shoes in a pan or deep
dish in layers, with the sugai' sprinkled between them; pour the lemon- juice
over the top, and let the whole remain for two or three days. Boil all together,
adding half a pint of water to every three pounds of sugar used imtil the
pumpkin becomes tender; then turn the whole into a pan, where let it remain
for a week; then drain off the syrup, boil it until it is quite thick; skim, and

382 PItESERVES, JELLIES, ETC.

pour it boiling over the pumpkiiL A little bruised ginger, and lemon-rind,
thinly pared, may be boiled in tbe syrup to flavor the piunpkin.

— A SatUh^m recipe.

PRESERVING FRUIT. (New Mode-)

Housekeepers who dislike the tedious, old-time fashion of clarifying sugar
and boiling the fruit, will appreciate the following two recipes^ no fire being
needed in their preparation. The first is for ^Hutti frutti," and has been re-
peatedly tested with unvarying success.

Put one quart of white, preserving, fine Batavia brandy into a two-gallon
stone jar that has a tightly fitting top. Then for every pound of fruit, in prime
condition and perfectly dry, which you put in the brandy, use three-quarters of
a pound of granulated sugar; stir every day so that the sugar will be dissolved,
using a clean, wooden spoon kept for the purpose. Every sort of fruit may be
used, beginning with strawberries and ending with plums. Be sure and have at
least one pound of black cherries, as they make the color of the preserve very
rich. Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, apricots, cherries (sweet and sour),
peaches, plums, are all used, and, if you like, currants and grapes. Plums and
grapes should be peeled and seeded, apricots and peaches peeled and cut in
quarters or eighths or dice; cherries also must be seeded: quinces may be steamed
imtil tender. The jar must be kept in a cod, diy place, and the daily stirring
must never be forgotten, for that is the secret of success. You may use as much
of one sort of fruit as you like, and it may be put in from day to day, just as
you happen to have it. Half the quantity of spirits may be used. The preserve
will be ready for use within a week after the last fruit is put in^ and wiU keep
for a number of months. We have found it good eight months after making.

The second is as follows: Take some pure white vinogar and mix with it
granulated sugar until a syrup is formed quite free from acidity. Pour this
syrup into earthen jars and put in it good, perfectly ripe fruit, gathered in dry
weather. Cover the jars tight, and put them in a dry place. The contents will
keep for six or eight months, and the flavor of the fruit will be excellent.

TO PRESERVE FRUIT WITHOUT SUGAR.

Cherries, strawberries, sliced pineapple, plums, apricots, gooseberries, etc.^
may be preserved in the following manner— to be used the same as fresh fruit.

Gather the fruit before it is very ripe; put it in wide-mouthed bottles made
for the purpose; fill them as full as they will hold, and cork them tight; seal the
corks; put some hay in a large sauce-pan, set in the bottles, with hay between
them to prevent their touching; then fill the sauce-pan with water to the necks

PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 383

of the bottles, and set it over the fire until the water is nearly boiling, then take
it off; let it stand until the bottles are cold. Keep them in a cool place until
wanted, when the fruit will be found equal to fresh.

NEW METHOD OF PRESERVING FRUIT.
A new method of preserving fruit is practiced in England. Pears, apples
and other fruits are reduced to a paste by jamming, which is then pressed into
cakes and gently dried. When required for use it is only necessary to pour four
times their weight of boiling water over them, and allow them to soak for twenty
minutes, and then add sugar to suit the taste. The fine flavor of the fruit is
said to be retained to perfection. The cost of the prepared product is scarcely
greater than that of the original fruit, differing vnth the supply and price of the
latter; the keeping qualities are excellent, so that it may be had at any time of
the year, and bears long sea-voyages without detriment. No peeling or coring
is required, so there is no waste.

FRUIT JELLIES.

Take a stone jar and put in the fruit, place this in a kettle of tepid water,
and set on the fire; let it boil closely covered, until the fruit is broken to pieces;
strain, pressing the bag^ a stout, coarse one, hard, putting in a few handfuls
each time, and between each squeezing turning it inside out to scald off the pulp
and skins; to each pint of juice allow a poimd of loaf sugar; set the juice on
alone to boil, and while it is boiling, put the sugar into shallow dishes or pans,
and heat it in the oven, watching and stirring the sugar to prevent burning;
boil the juice just twenty minutes from the time it begins fairly to boil; by this
time the sugar should be very hot; throw the sugar into the boiling juice, stir-
ring rapidly all the time; v^thdraw the spoon when all is thoroughly dissolved;
let the jelly come to a boil to make all certain; v^thdraw the kettle instantly
from the fire; roll your glasses and cups in hot water, and fill with the scalding
Uquid; the jelly vdll form within an hour; when cold, dose and tie up as you
do preserves.

CURRANT JELLY.

Currants for jelly should be perfectly ripe and gathered the first week of
the season ; they lose their jelly property if they hang on the bushes too
long, and become too juicy — the juice will fiot be apt to congeal. Strip them
from the stalks, put them into a stone jar, and set it in a vessel of hot water
over the fire; keep the water around it boiling imtil the currants are all broken,
stirring them up occasionally. Then squeeze them through a coarse cloth or
towel. To each pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of refined sugar. Put

384 PRESERVES. JELLIES, ETC.

the sugar into a porcelain kettle, pour the juice orerit, stirring fr6q[n6ntl7.
Skim it before it boils; boil about twenty minutes, or until it congeals in the
spoon when held in the air. Pour it into hot jelly glasses and seal when cooL
Wild frost grape jelly is nice made after this recipe.

CURRANT JELLY. (New Method.)
This recipe for making superior jelly without heat is given in a Parisian
journal of chemistry, which may be worth trying by some of our readers. The
currants are to be washed and squeezed in the usual way, and the juice placed
ina stone or earthen vessel, and set away in a cool place in the cellar. Li about
twenty-four hours a considerable amount of froth wiU cover the surface, pro-
duced by fermentation, and this must be removed, and the whole strained again
through the jelly bag, then weighed, and an equal weight of powdered white
sugar is to be added. This is to be stirred constantly until entirely dissolved,
and then put into jars, tied up tightly, and set away. At the end of another
twenty-four hours a perfectly transparent jelly of the most satisfactory flavor
will be f ormed^ which will keep as long as if it had been cooked.

QUINCE JELLY.
Quinces for jelly should not be quite ripe, they should be a fine yellow; rub
off the down from them, core them, and cut them small; put them in a preserv-
ing kettle with a teacupful of water for each pound; let them stew gently until
soft, without mashing; put them in a thin muslin bag with the liquor; press
them very lightly; to each pint of the liquor put a ixmnd of sugar; stir it until
it is aU dissolved, then set it over the fire, and let it boil gently, until by cooling
some on a plate you find it a good jelly; then turn it into pots or tumblers, and
when cold« secure as directed for jellies.

RASPBERRY JELLY.
To each pint of juice allow one pound of sugar. Let the raspberries be freshly
gathered, quite ripe, picked from the stalks; put them into a large jar after
breaking the fruit a little with a wooden spoon, and place this jar, covered, in a
sauce-pan of boiling water. When the juice is weU drawn, which will be in
from three-quarters to one hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or
doth; measure the juice, and to every pint allow the above proportion of white
sugar. Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it over the fire, and
boil gently until the jelly thickens, when a little is poured on a plate; carefully
remove all the scum as it rises, pour the jelly into small pots, cover down, and
keep in a dry place. This jelly answers for making raspberry cream, and for
flavoring various sweet dishes, when, in winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable.

PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 385

APPLE JELLY.

Select apples that are rather tart and highly flavored; slice them without
paring; place in a porcelain preserving-kettle, cover with water, and let them
cook slowly until the apples look red. Pour into a colander, drain ofif the juice,
and let this run through a jelly-bag; return to the kettle, which must be care-
fully washed, and boil half an hour; measure it and allow to every pint of juice
•a pound of sugar and half the juice of a lemon; boil quickly for ten minutes.

The juice of apples, boiled in shallow vessels, without a particle of sugar,
makes the most sparkling, delicious jelly imaginable. Red apples will give jelly
the color and clearness of claret, while that from hght fruit is like amber. Take
the cider just as it is made, not allowing it to ferment at all, and, if possible,
boil it in a pan, flat, very large, and shallow.

GRAPE JELLY.

Mash well the berries so as to remove the skins; pour all into a preserving-
Icettle, and cook slowly for a few minutes to extract the juice; strain through
•a colander, and then through a flannel jelly-bag, keeping as hot as possible, for
if not allowed to cool before putting again on the stove the jelly comes much
•stiflfer; a few quince seeds boiled with the berries the first time tend to stiffen
it; measure the juice, allowing a pound of loaf sugar to every pint of juice, and
boil fast for at least half an hour. Try a little, and if it seems done, remove
and put into glasses.

FLORIDA ORANGE JELLY.

Grate the yellow rind of two Florida oranges and two lemons, and squeeze
the juice into a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle, adding the juice of two more
oranges, and removing all the seeds; put in the grated rind a quarter of a pound
of sugar, or more if the fruit is sour, and a gill of water, and boil these ingre-
dients together until a rich syrup is formed; meantime, dissolve two ounces of
gelatine in a quart of warm water, stirring it over the fire xmtil it is entirely dis-
solved; then add the syrup, strain the jeUy, and cool it in molds wet in cold water.

CRAB-APPLE JELLY.

The apples should be juicy and ripe. The fruit is then quartered, the black
spots in the cores removed, afterward put into a preserving-kettle over the fire,
with a teacupful of water in the bottom to prevent burning; more water is added
as it evaporates while cooking. When boiled to a pulp, strain the apples through
a coarse flannel, then proceed as for currant jelly.

386 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC.

PEACH JELLY.
Pare the peaches, take out the stones, then slice them; add to them about a
quarter of the kernels. Place them in a kettle with enough water to cover
them. Stir them often until the fruit is well cooked, then strain, and to every pint
of the juice add the juice of a lemon; measure again, allowing a pound of sugar
to each pint of juice; heat the sugar very hot, and add when the juice has boiled
twenty minutes; let it come to a boil, and take instantly from the fire.

ORANGE SYRUP.

Pare the oranges, squeeze and strain the juice from the pulp. To one pint of
juice allow one pound and three-quarters of loaf sugar. Put the juice and sugar
together, boil and skim it until it is cream; then strain it through a flannel bag>
and let it stand until it becomes cool, then put in bottles and cork tight.

Lemon syrup is made in the same way, except that you scald the lemons^
and squeeze out the juice, allowing rather more sugar.

ORANGE MARMALADE.

Allow pound for pound. Pare half the oranges, and cut the rind into shreds.
Boil in three waters until tender, and set aside. Grate the rind of the remaining
oranges; take off, and throw away every bit of the thick white inner skin;
quarter all the oranges and take out the seeds. Chop, or cut them into small
pieces; drain all the juice that will come away, without pressing them, over the
sugar; heat this, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, adding a very littie water,
imless the oranges are very juicy. Boil and skim five or six minutes; put in
the boiled shreds, and cook ten minutes; then the chopped fruit and grated peeL
and boil twenty minutes longer. When cold, put iato smaU jars, ided up with
bladder or paper next the fruit, cloths dipped in wax over all. A nicer way still
is to put away in tumblers with self-adjusting metal tops. Press brandied tissue
I>aper down closely to the fruit.

LEMON MARMALADE

Is made as you would prepare orange — ^allowing a pound and a quarter of
sugar to a poimd of the fruit, and using but half the grated peel.

RAISINS. (A French Marmalade.)

This recipe is particularly valuable at seasons when fruit is scarce. Take six
fine large cooking apples, peel them, put them over a slow fire, together with a
wineglassful of Madeira wine, and half a pound of sugar. When well stewed, split

PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 387

and stone two and a half pounds of raisins, and put them to stew with the
apples, and enough water to prevent their burning. When all appears well
dissolved, beat it through a strainer bowl, and lastly through a sieve. Mold, if
you like, or put away in small preserve jars, to cut in thin slices for the orna-
mentation of pastry, or to dish up for eating with cream.

STRAWBERRY JAM.

To each pound of fine, and not too ripe berries, allow three-quarters of a
pound of sugar. Put them into a preserving pan, and stir gently, not to break
up the fruit; simmer for one-half hour, and put into pots air-tight. An excel-
lent way to seal jellies and jams is as the German women do: Cut round covers
from writing paper a half -inch too large for the tops, smear the inside with the^
unbeaten white of an egg, tie over with a cord, and it will dry quickly and be
absolutely preservative. A circular i)aper dipped in brandy, and laid over the
toothsome contents before covering, will prevent any dampness from affecting
the flavor. I have removed these covers heavy with mold, to find the preserve^
intact.

GOOSEBERRY JAM.

Pick the gooseberries just as they begin to turn. Stem, wash and weigh.
To four pounds of fruit add half a teacupful of water; boil until soft and add.
four pounds of sugar and boil until clear. If picked at the right stage the jam
will be amber-colored and firm, and very much nicer than if the fruit is pre-
served when ripe.

BRANDIED PEACHES OR PEARS.

Four pounds of fruit, four pomids of sugar, one piat of best white brandy.
Make a syrup of the sugar and enough water to dissolve it. Let this come to a.
boil; put the fruit iu and boil five minutes. Having removed the fruit carefully,
let the syrup boil fifteen minutes longer, or until it thickens well; add the brandy,
and take the kettle at once from the fire; pour the hot syrup over the fruit, and
seal. If, after the fruit is taken from the fire, a reddish liquor oozes from it,
drain this off before adding the clear syrup. Put up in glass jars. Peaches and
pears should be peeled for brandying. Plums should be pricked and watched
carefully for fear of bursting.

RASPBERRY JAM.

To five or six pounds of fine red raspberries (not too ripe) add an equal quan-
tity of the finest quality of white sugar. Mash the whole well in a preserving
kettle; add about one quart of currant juice (a Uttle less wiU do), and boil gently^

388 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC.

until it jellies upon a cold plate; then put into small jars; cover with brandied
paper^ and tie a thick white paper over them. Keep in a dark, dry and cool
place.

Blackberry or strawberry jam is made the same way, leaving out the currant
juice.

A NEW WAY OF KEEPING FRUIT.

It is stated that experiments have been made in keeping fruit in jars covered
only with cotton batting, and at the end of two years the fruit was sound. The
following directions are given for the process: Use crocks, stone butter- jars or
any other convenient dishes. Prepare and cook the fruit precisely as for can-
ning in glass jars; fill your dishes with fruit while hot; and immediately cover
with cotton batting, securely tied on. Bemember that all putrefaction is caused
by the invisible creatures in the air. Cooking the fruit expels all these, and they
cannot pass through the cotton batting. The fruit thus protected will keep an
indefinite period. It wiU be remembered that Tyndall has proved that the
atmospheric germs cannot pass through a layer of cotton.

MACEDOINES.

Suspend in the centre of the jelly mold a bunch of grapes, cherries, berries, or
<nirrants on their stems, sections of oranges, pineapples, or brandied fruits, and
pour in a Uttle jelly when quite cold, but not set. It makes a very agreeable
-effect. By a httle ingenuity you can imbed first one fruit and then another,
arranging in circles, and pour a Uttle jelly successively over each. Do not re-heat
the jelly, but keep it in a warm place, while the mold is on ice and the first
layers are hardening.

Berries and all ripe, mellow fruit require but little cooking, only long enough
for the sugar to penetrate. Strew sugar over them, aUow them to stand a few
hours, then merely scald with the sugar; half to three-quarters of a pound is
considered sufficient. Harder fruits like pears, quinces, etc., require longer
boiling.

The great secret of canning is to make the fruit or vegetable perfectly air-
tight. It must be put up boiling hot, and the vessel filled to the brim.

Have your jars conveniently placed near your boiling fruit, in a tin pan of
hot water on the stove, roll them in the hot water, then fill immediately with
the hot, scalding fruit, fill to the top, and seal quickly with the tops, which
should also be heated; occasionally screw down the tops tighter, as the fruit
shrinks as it cools, and the glass contracts, and allows the air to enter the cans.
They must be perfectly air-tight. The jars to be kept in a dark, cool, dry place.

Use glass jars for fruit always, and the fruit should be cooked in a porcelain
or granite-iron kettle. If you are obliged to use common large-mouthed bottles
with corks, steam the corks and pare them to a close fit, driving them in with a
mallet. Use the following wax for sealing: one pound of resin, three ounces of
beeswax, one and one-half ounces of tallow. Use a brush in covering the corks,
and as they cool, dip the mouth into the melted wax. Place in a basin of cool
water. Pack in a cool, dark, and dry cellar. After one week, examine for
flaws, cracks or signs of ferment.

The rubber rings used to assist in keeping the air from the fruit cans some •
times become so dry and brittle as to be almost useless. They can be restored to
normal condition usually by letting them lie in water in which you have put a
little ammonia. Mix in this proportion: One part of ammonia and two parts
water. Sometimes they do not need to lie in this more than five minutes, but
frequently a half -hour is needed to restore their elasticity.

390 CANNED FRUITS.

CANNED PEACHES.

To one pound of peaches allow half a pound of sugar; to six pounds of sugar^
add half a tumbler of water; put in the kettle a layer of sugar and one of peaches
until the whole of both are in. Wash about eight peach-leaves, tie them up
and put into the kettle, remembering to take them out when you begin to fill up
the jars. Let the sugared fruit remain on the range, but away from the fire,
imtil upon tipping the vessel to one side you can see some liquid; then fill the
jars, taking them out of hot water into which they were put when cold, remain-
ing untn it was made to boil around them. In this way you will find out if the
glass has been properly annealed; for we consider glass jars with stoppers screw-
ing down upon India-rubber rings as the best for canning fruit in families.
They should be kept in a dark closet; and although somewhat more expensive
than tin in the first instance, are much nicer, and keep for years with careful
usage.

Fruit must be of fine fiavor, and rtpe, though not softy to make nice canned
fruit.

Peaches should be thrown into cold water as they are peeled, to prevent a
yellowish crust.

CANNED GRAPES.

There is no fruit so difficult to can nicely as the grape; by observing the fol-
lowing instructions you will find the grapes rich and tender a year from putting
up. Squeeze the pulp from the skin, as the seeds are objectionable; boil the
pulp until the seeds begin to loosen, in one kettle, having the skins boHing in a
little water, hard, in another kettle, as they are tough. When the pulp seems
tender, put it through the sieve; then add the skins, if tender, with the water
they boil in, if not too much. We use a large coffee-cupful of sugar for a quart
can; boil until thick, and can in the usual way.

CANNED STRAWBERRIES.

After the berries are picked over, let as many as can be put carefully in the
preserve kettle at once be placed on a platter. To each pound of fruit add
three-fourths of a pound of sugar; let them stand two or three hours, till the
juice is drawn from them; pour it into the kettle and let it come to a boil, and
remove the scum which rises; then put in the berries very carefully. As soon
as they come thoroughly to a boil put them in warm jars, and seal while boiling
hot.

CANNED FRUITS. 39I

TO CAN QUINCES.

Out the quinces into thin slices like apples for pies. To one quart jarful of
quince, take a coffee-saucer and a half of sugar, and a coffee-cupful of water;
put the sugar and water on the fire, and when boiling put in the quinces; have
ready the jars with their fastenings, stand the jars in a pan of boiling water on
the stove, and when the quince is clear and tender put rapidly into the jars, fruit
and syrup together. The jars must be filled so that the syrup overfiows, and
fastened up tight as quickly as possible.

CANNED PINEAPPLE.

For six pounds of fruit, when cut and ready to can, make syrup with two
and a half pounds of sugar and nearly three pints of water; boil syrup five
minutes and skim or strain if necessary; then add the fruit, and let it boil up;
have cans hot, fill and shut up as soon as possible. Use the best white sugar.
As the cans cool, keep tightening them up. Cut the fruit half an inch thick.

CANNED FRUIT JUICES.

Canned fruit juices are an excellent substitute for brandy or wine in all pud-
dings and sauces, etc.

It is a good plan to can the pure juices of fruit in the summer time, putting it
by for this purpose.

Select clean ripe fruit, press out the juice and strain it through a flannel cloth.
To each pint of juice add one cupful of white granulated sugar. Put it in a
porcelain kettle, bring it to the boiling point, and bottle while hot in small
bottles. It must be sealed very tight while it is hot. WiU keep a long time, the
same as canned fruit.

CANNED TOMATOES.

Canning tomatoes is quite a simple process. A large or small quantity may
be done at a time, and they should be put in glass jars in preference to those of
tin, which are apt to injure the flavor. Very ripe tomatoes are the best for the
purpose. They are first put into a large pan and covered with boiling water.
This loosens the skin, which is easily removed, and the tomatoes are then put
into the preserving kettle, set over a moderate fire without the addition of water
or any seasoning, and brought to a boil. After boiling slowly one -half hour,
they are put into the jars while boiling hot and sealed tightly. They will keep
two or three years in this way. The jars should be filled to the brim to prev^it
air from getting in, and set in a cool, dark closet.

392 CANNED FRUITS.

TO CAN CORN.

Split the kernels lengthwise with a knife, then scrape with the back of the
knife, thus leaving the hulls upon the cob. Fill cans full of cut com, pressing
it in very hard. To press the com in the can, use the small end of a potato
masher, as this will enter the can easily. It will take from ten to a dozen large
ears of com to fill a one-quart can. When the cans are full, screw cover on with
thumb and first finger; this will be tight enough, then place a cloth in the bottom
of a wash boiler to prevent breakage. On this put a layer of cans inany posi-
tion you prefer, over the cans put a layer of cloth, then a layer of cans. Fill the
boUer in this manner, then cover the cans well with cold water, place the boiler
on the fire, and hoU three hours without ceasing. On steady boiling, depends
much of your success. After boiling three hours, lift the boiler from the fire,
let the water cool, then take the cans from the boiler and tighten, let them
remain until cold, then tighten again. Wrap each can in brown paper to
exclude the Ught, and keep in a cool dry cellar and be very sure the rubber rings
are not hardened by use. The rings should be renewed every two years. I
wordd advise the beginner to use new rings entirely, for poor rings cause the
loss of canned fruit and vegetables in many cases. You will observe that in
canning com the cans are not wrapped in a cloth nor heated; merely filled with
the cut com. The com in the cans will shrink considerably in boiling, but on
no account open them after canning.

TO CAN PEAS.

Fill the can full of peas, shake the can so they can be filled weU. You cannot
press the peas in the can as you did the com, but by shaking the cans they may
be filled quite full. Pour into the cans enough cold water to fill to overflowing,
then screw the cover tight as you can with your thumb and first finger and
proceed exactly as in canning com.

String beans are cut as for cooking and canned in the same manner. No

seasoning of salt, pepper or sugar should be added.

— Mary Ourrier Parsons.

CANNED PLUMS.
To every pound of plums allow a quarter of a pound of sugar. Put the sugar
and plums alternately into the preserving-kettle, first pricking the plimis to pre-
vent their breaking. Let them stand on the back of the stove for an hour or
two, then put them over a moderate fire, and allow to come to a boil; skim and
pour at once into jars, running a silver spoon handle around the inside of the jar
to break the air-bubbles; cover and screw down the tops.

CANNED FRUITS. 395.

CANNED MINCE-MEAT.
Mince-meat for pies can be preserved for years if canned the same as frziit
while Tioty and put into glass jars and sealed perfectly tight, and set in a cool,
dark place. One glass quart jar will hold enough to make two ordinary -sized
pies, and in this way " mince pies '* can be had in the middle of summer as weU
as in winter, and if the cans are sealed properly, the meat will be just as fine
when opened as when first canned.

CANNED BOILED CIDER.

Boiled cider, in our grandmothers' time, was indispensable to the making of
a good "mince pie," adding the proper flavor and richness, which cannot be
substituted by any other ingredient, and a gill of which being added to a rule of
"fruit cake" makes it more moist, keeps longer, and is far superior to fruit
cake made without it. Boiled cider is an article rarely found in the market,
now-a-days, but can be made by any one, with but Uttle trouble and expense,
using sweet cider, shortly after it is made, and before fermentation takes place.
Place five quarts of sweet cider in a porcelain-lined kettle over the fire, boil it
slowly until reduced to one quart, carefully watching it that it does not burn;
turn into glass jars while hot, and seal tightly, the same aa canned fruit. It is.
then ready to use any time of the year.

CANNED PUMPKIN.

Pumpkins or squash canned are far more convenient for ready use than^
those dried in the old-fashioned way.

Cut up pumpkin or squash into small pieces, first cutting off the peel; stew
them until tender, add no seasoning; then mash them very fine with a potato-
masher. Have ready yoxu: cans, made hot, and then fill them with the hot
pumpkin or squash, seal tight; place in a dark, cool closet.

PEACH BUTTER.

Pare ripe peaches and put them in a preserving-kettle, with sufficient water
to boil them soft; then sift through a colander, removing the stones. To each
quart of peach put one and one-half poimd of sugar, and boil very slowly one
hour. Stir often, and do not let them bum. Put in stone or glass jars, and
keep in a cool place.

.394 CANNED FRUITS.

PEACHES DRIED WITH SUGAR.

Peel yellow peaches, cut them from the stone in one piece; allow two pomids
of sugar to six pounds of fruit; make a syrup of three-quarters of a pound of
sugar, and a little water; put in the peaches, a few at a time, and let them cook
gently until quite dear. Take them up carefully on a dish and set them in the
6un to dry. Strew powdered sugar over them on all sides, a little at a time; if
any syrup is left, remove to fresh dishes. When they are quite dry, lay them
lightly in a jar with a little sugar sifted between the layers.

••»

, eNgX»eX5)^t> J

RED OR PINK COLORING.

Take two cents' worth of cochineal. Lay it on a flat plate, and bruise it with
the blade of a knife. Put it into half a teacupfid of alcohol. Let it stand a
quarter of an hour, and then filter it through fine muslin. Always ready for
immediate use. Cork the bottle tight.

Strawberry or cranberry juice makes a fine coloring for frosting sweet pud-
dings and confectionery.

DEEP RED COLORING,

Take twenty grains of cochineal, and fifteen grains of cream of tartar finely
powdered; add to them a piece of alum the size of a cherry stone, and boil them
with a gill of soft water, in an earthen vessel, slowly, for half an hour. Then
strain it through muslin, and keep it tightly corked in a phial. If a little alcohol
is added, it will keep any length of time.

YELLOW COLORING.

Take a httle saffron, put it into an earthen vessel with a very small quantity
of cold, soft water, and let it steep till the color of the infusion is a bright yellow.
Then strain it, add half alcohol to it. To color fruit yellow, boil the fruit with
fresh skin lemons in water to cover them until it is tender; then take it up,
spread it on dishes to cool, and finish as may be directed.

To color idng, put the grated peel of a lemon or orange in a thin muslin bag,
squeezing a little juice ttirough it, then mixing with the sugar.

GREEN COLORING.
Take fresh spinach or beet leaves, and poimd them in a marble mortar. If
you want it for inmiediate use, take off the green froth as it rises, and mix it
with the article you intend to color. If you wish to keep it a few days, take

396 COLORING FOR FRUIT, ETC.

the juice when you have pressed out a teacupful, and adding to it a piece of
alum the size of a pea> give it a boil in a sauce-pan. Or make the juice very
strong and add a quart of alcohol. Bottle it air-tight.

SUGAR GRAINS.

These are made by pounding white lump sugar in a mortar and shalring it
through sieves of different degrees of coarseness, thus accumulating grains of
different sizes. They are used in ornamenting cake.

SUGAR GRAINS, COLORED.

Stir a little coloring — ^as the essence of spinach, or prepared cochineal, or liquid
carmine, or indigo, rouge, saffron, etc., — ^into the sugar grains made as above, un-
til each grain is stained, then spread them on a baking-sheet, and dry them in
a warm place. They are used in ornamenting cake.

CARAMEL OR BURNT SUGAR.

Put one cupful of sugar and two teaspoonf uls of water in a sauce-pan on the
fire; stir constantly until it is quite a dark color, then add a half cupful of
water, and a pinch of salt; let it boil a few minutes, and when cold, bottle.

For coloring soups, sauces or gravies.

TO CLARIFY JELLY.

The white of eggs is, perhaps, the best . substance that can be employed in
clarifying jeUy, as well as some other fluids, for the reason that when albumen
(and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen) is put into a liquid that is muddy,
from substances suspended in it, on boiling the liquid the albxunen coagulates in
a flocculent manner, and, entangling with the impurities, rises with them to the^
surface as a scum, or sinks to the bottom, according to their weight.

In the making of confections, the best granulated or loaf sugar should be
used. (Beware of glucose mixed with sugar.) Sugar is boiled more or less,
according to the kind of candy to be made, and it is necessary to understand the
proper degree of sugar boiling to operate it successfully.

Occasionally sugar made into candies, *' creams " or syrups, will need clarify-
ing. The process is as follows: Beat up weU the white of an egg with a cupful
of cold water and pour it into a very clean iron or thick new tin sauce-pan, then
put into the pan four cupfuls of sugar, mixed with a cupful of warm water.
Put on the stove, and heat moderately until the scum rises. Eemove the pan,
and skim off the top, then place on the fire again until the scum rises again.
Then remove as before, and so continue until no scum rises.

This recipe is for good brown or yellowish sugar; for soft, white sugars, half
the white of an egg wiU do, and for refined or loaf sugar a quarter wiU do.

The quantities of sugar and water are the same in all cases. Loaf sugar will
generally do for all candy-making without further clarification. Brown or
yellow sugars are used for caramels, dark-colored cocoanut, taffy, and pulled
molasses candies generally.

Havana is the cheapest grade of white sugai* and a shade or two lighter than
the brown.

Confectioners' A is superior in color and grain to the Jlavana. It is a cen-
trifugal sugar^that is, it is not re-boiled to procure its white color, but is
moistened with water and then put into rapidly revolving cylinders. The un-
crystalized syrup or molasses is whirled out of it, and the sugar comes out with
a dry, white grain.

Icing or Powdered Sugars. This is powdered loaf sugar. Icing can only be
made with powdered sugar, which is produced by grinding or crushing loaf, sugar
as fine as flour nearly.

Granulated Sugar. This is a coarse-grained sugar, generally very clean and

398 CONFECTIONERY.

gparUing, and fit for use as a colored sugar in crystalized goods^ and other
superior uses.

This same syrup answers for most candies, and should be boiled to such a
degree^ that when a fork or splinter is dipped into it the liquid will run off and
form a thick drop on the end, and long, silk-like threads hang from them when
exposed to the air. The syrup nearer to be stirred while hot, or else it will grain,
but if intended for soft, French candies, should be remored, and, when nearly
cold, stirred to a cream. For hard, brittle candies, the syrup should be boiled
until, when a Uttle is dropped in cold water, it will crack and break when biting it.

The hands should be buttered when li^n illmg it, or it will stick to them.

The top of the inside of the dish that the sugar or molasses is to be cooked in,
should be buttered a few inches around the inside; it prevents the syrup from
rising and swelling any higher than where it reaches the buttered edge.

For common crack candies, the sugar can be kept from graining by adding
a teaspoonful of vinegar or cream tartar.

Colorings for candies should bid harmless, and those used for fruit and con-
fectionery, on page 395, will be most suitable.

Essences and extracts should be bought at the druggist's, not the poor kind
usually sold at the grocer's.

FRENCH CREAM CANDY.

Put four cupfuls of white sugar and one cupful of water into a bright tin
pan on the range, and let it boil without stirring for ten minutes. If it looks
somewhat thick, test it by letting some drop from the spoon, and if it threads,
remove the pan to the table. Take out a small spoonful, and rub it against the
side of a cake-bowl; if it becomes creamy, and wiU roll into a ball between the
fingers, pour the whole into the bowl. When cool enough to bear your finger in
it, take it in your lap, stir or beat it with a large spoon, or pudding-stick. It
will soon begin to look like cream, and then grow stiff er until you find it neces-
sary to take your hands and work it like bread dough. If it is not boiled enough
to cream, set it back upon the range, and let it remain one or two minutes, or
as long as is necessary, taking care not to cook it too much. Add the flavoring
as soon as it begins to cool. This is the foundation of all French creams. It
can be made into rolls, and sliced off, or packed in plates and cut into small
cubes, or made into any shape imitating French candies. A pretty form is
made by coloring some of the cream pink, taking a piece about as large as a
hazel nut, and crowding an almond meat half way into one side, till it looks
like a bursting kernel In working, should the cream get too cold, warm it.

CONFECTIONERY. 399

To be successful in maMng this cream, several points are to be remembered;
when the boiled sugar is cool enough to beat, if it looks rough and has turned to
sugar it is because it has been boiled too much^ or has been stirred. U, after it
is beaten, it does not look like lard or thick cream, and is sandy or sugary
instead, it is because you did not let it get cool enough before beating.

It is not boiled enough if it does not harden so as to work like dough, and
should not stick to the hands; in this case put it back into the pan with an
ounce of hot water, and cook over just enough, by testing in water as above.
After it is turned into the bowl to cool, it should look clear as jeUy. Practice
and patience will make perfect.

FRUIT CREAMS.

Add. to "French Cream/' raisins, currants, figs, a little citron, chopped and
mixed thoroughly through the cream while quite warm. Make into bars or flat
cakes.

WALNUT CREAMS.

Take a piece of "French Cream" the size of a walnut. Having cracked
some Enghsh walnuts, using care not to break the meats, place one-half of each -
nut upon each side of the ball, pressing them into the ball.

Walnut creams can be made by another method : Fust take a piece of ' * French
Cream," put it into a cup, and setting the cup into a vessel of boiling water,
heating it until it turns like thick cream; drop the walnut meats into it, one at
a time, taking it out on the end of a fork, and placing it on buttered paper; con-
tinue to dip them until aU are used, then go over again, giving them a second
coat of candy. They look nicely colored pink, and flavored with vanilla.

CHOCOLATE CREAMS.

Use "French Cream," and form it into small cone-shaped balls with the
fingers. Lay them upon paper to harden imtil all are formed. Melt one cake
of bakers' chocolate in an earthen dish or small basin; by setting it in the oven
it will soon melt; do not let it cook, but it must be kept hot.

Take the balls of cream, one at a time, on the tines of a fork, pour the melted
chocolate over them with a teaspoon, and when well covered, slip them from the
fork upon oiled paper.

COCOANUT CREAMS.
Take two tablespoonfuls of grated cocoanut and half as much "French
candy; " work them both together with your hand till the cocoanut is aU well
mixed in it. K you choose, you can add a drop of vanilla. If too soft to work

400 CONFECTIONERY.

into balls, add confectioners' sugar to stiffen; make into balls the size of hazel-
nuts, and dip twice, as in the foregoing recipes, flavoring the melted ^^ French
Cream " with vanilla.

VARIEGATED CREAMS.

Make the '^French Cream'' recipe, and divide into three parts, leaving one part
white, color one pink with cochineal syrup, and the third part color brown with
chocolate, which is done by just letting the cream soften and stirring in a httle
finely grated chocolate. The pink is colored by dropping on a few drops of
cochineal syrup while the cream is warm, and beating it in. Take the white
cream, make a flat ball of it, and lay it upon a buttered dish, and pat it out flat
until about half an inch thick. If it does not work easily, dip the hand in alco-
hol. Take the pink cream, work in the same way as the white and lay it upon
the white; then the chocolate in the same manner, and lay upon the pink, press-
ing all together. Trim the edges off smooth, leaving it in a nice, square cake,
then cut into slices or small cubes, as you prefer. It is necessary to work it all
up as rapidly as possible.

RASPBERRY CREAMS-

Stir enough confectioners' sugar into a teaspoonful of raspberry jam to form
a thick paste; roll it into balls between the palms of your hands. Put a lump of
" French Cream " into a teacup, and set it into a basin of boiling water, stirring
it until it has melted; then drop a few drops of cochineal coloring to make it a
pale pink, or a few drops of raspberry juice, being careful not to add enough to
prevent its hardening. Now dip these little balls into the sugar cream, giving
them two coats. Lay aside to harden.

Eemember to heep stirring the melted cream, or if not it will turn hook to
clear syrup.

NUT CREAMS.

Chop almonds, hickory nuts, butternuts or English walnuts quite fine. Make
the " French Cream," and before adding all the sugar, while the cream is quite
soft, stir into it the nuts, and then form into balls, bars or squares. Several
kinds of nuts may be mixed together.

MAPLE SUGAR CREAMS.

Grate fine maple sugar and mix in quantity to suit the taste, with " French
Cream; " make any shape desired. Walnut creams are sometimes made with
maple sugar and are very fine.

CONFECTIONER V. 40 1

STICK CANDY.

One pound of granulated sugar, one cupful of water, a quarter of a cupful of
vinegar, or half a teaspoonful of cream tartar, one small tablespoonful of
glycerine. Flavor with vanilla, rose or lemon. Boil all except the flavoring,
without stirring, twenty minutes or half an hour, or imtil crisp when dropped
in water. Just before pouring upon greased platters to cool, add half a tea-
spoonful of soda. After pouring upon platters to cool, pour two teaspoonf uls of
flavoring over the top. When partly cool, pull it until very white. Draw it
into sticks the size you wish, and cut ofl^ with shears into sticks or kiss shaped
drops. It may be colored if desired. (See page 395, for coloring.)

CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.

One cupful of grated chocolate, two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of
West India molasses, one cupful of milk or cream, butter the size of an egg,
boil until thick, almost brittle, stirring constantly. Turn it out on to buttered
plates, and when it begins to stiffen, mark it in smaU squares so that it will
break easily when cold. Some like it flavored with a tablespoonful of vaniUa.

GRILLED ALMONDS.

These are a very dehcious candy seldom met with out of France. They are
rather more trouble to make than other kinds, but well repay it from their novel
flavor. Blanch a cupful of almonds; dry them thoroughly. Boil a cupful of
sugar and a quarter of a cupful of water till it ** hairs," then throw in the
almonds; let them ifry, as it were, in this syrup, stirring them occasionally; they
will turn a faint yeUow brown before the sugar changes color; do not wait an
instant once this change of color begins, or they will lose flavor; remove them
from the fire, and stir them until the syrup has turned back to sugar and clings
irregularly to the nuts.

These are grilled almonds. You will find them delicious, as they are to alter-
nate at dinner with the salted almonds now so fashionable.

PEPPERMINT DROPS.

One cupful of sugar, crushed fine, and just moistened with boiling water,
then boiled five minutes; then take from the fire and add cream of tartar the
size of a pea; mix well and add four or five drops of oil of peppermint. Beat
briskly until the mixture whitens, then drop quickly upon white paper. Have
the cream of tartar and oil of peppermint measured while the sugar is boiling.
If it sugars before it is all dropped, add a little water and boil a minute or two.

402 CONFECTIONERY.

CURRANT DROPS.

Use carraiit- juice, instead of water, to moisten a quantity of sugar. Put it
in a pan and heat, stirring constantly; be sure not to let it boil; then mi:;^ a very
little more sugar, let it warm with the rest a moment; then, with a smooth sticky
drop on paper.

LEMON DROPS.
Upon a ooflfee-cupful of finely powdered sugar, pour jusb enough lemon-juice
to dissolve it, and boil it to the consistency of thick syrup, and so that it appears
brittle when dropped in cold water. Drop this on buttered plates in drops; set
away to cool and harden.

NUT MOLASSES CANDY.
When making molasses candy, add any kind of nuts you fancy; put them in
after the syrup has thickened, and is ready to take from the fire; pour out on
buttered tins. Mark it off in squares before it gets too cool. Peanuts should be
fresh roasted and then tossed in a sieve, to free them of their inner skins.

SUGAR NUT CANDY.

Three pounds of white sugar; half a pint of water; half a pint of vinegar; a
quarter of a pound of butter; one pound of hickory-nut kernels. Put the sugar,
butter, vinegar and water together into a thick sauce-pan. When it begins to
thicken, add the nuts. To test it, take up a very small quantity as quickly as
possible directly from the centre, taking care not to disturb it any more than is
necessary. Drop it into cold water, and remove from the fire the moment the
little i>articles are brittle. Pour into buttered plates. Use any nuts with this
recipe.

COCOANUT CANDY.

One cocoanut, one and one-half pounds of granulated sugar. Put sugar and
milk of cocoanut together, heat slowly until the sugar is melted, then boil five
minutes; add cocoanut (finely grated), boil ten minutes longer, stir constantly
to keep from burning. Pour on buttered plates, cut in squares. WiU take about
two days to harden. Use prepared cocoanut when other cannot be had.

BUTTER-SCOTCH.

Three cupfuls of white sugar, half a cupful of water, half a cupful of vinegar,
or half a teaspoonful of cream tartar; a tablespoonful of butter and eight drops
of extract of lemon. Boil without stirring^ till it will snap and break. Just
before taking from the fire, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of soda; pour into

CONFECTIONERY. 403

well-buttered biscuit tins, a quarter of an inch thick. Mark off into inch
squares when partly cold.

EVERTON TAFFY, OR BUTTER-SCOTCH.

Two cupf uls of sugar, two cupfuls of dark molasses, one cupful of cold butter,
grated rind of half a lemon. Boil over a slow fire imtil it hardens when dropped
in cold water. Pour thinly into tins well-buttered, and mark into little inch
squares, before it cools.

MAPLE WALNUTS.

Beat the white of one egg to a stiff froth, stir in enough powdered sugar to
make it like hard frosting, dip the walnut meats (which you have taken care
to remove from the shells without breaking) in a syrup made by boiling for two
or three minutes two tablespoonfuls of maple sugar in one of water, or in this
proportion. Press some of the hard frosting between the two halves of the
walnut, and let it harden. Dates may be prepared in this way, and butternuts
and English walnuts also.

POP-CORN CANDY. No. i.

Put into an iron kettle one tablespoonf ul of butter, three tablespoonfuls of
water and one cupful of white sugar; boil until ready to candy, then throw in
three quarts nicely popped com; stir vigorously until the sugar is evenly dis-
tributed over the com; take the kettle from the fire and stir imtil it cools a little,
and in this way you may have each kernel separate and aU coated with the
sugar. Of course it must have your undivided attention from the first, to pre-
vent scorching. Almonds, English walnuts, or, in fact, any nuts are delicious
prepared in this way.

POP-CORN CANDY, No. 2.

Having popped your com, salt it and keep it warm, sprinkle over with a

whisk broom a mixture composed of an ounce of gum arabic, and a half pound

of sugar, dissolved in two quarts of water; boil all a few minutes. Stir the com

with the hands or large spoon thoroughly; then mold into balls with the hands.

POP-CORN BALLS. No. 3.

Take three large eEurs of pop-corn (rice is best). After popping, shake it
down in pan so the unpopped com will settle at the bottom; put the nice white
popped in a greased pan. For the candy, take one cup of molasses, one cup of
hght brown or white sugar, one tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil until it will
harden in water. Pour on the com. Stir with a spoon until thoroughly mixed;
then mold into balls with the hand.

404 CONFECTIONERY.

No flayer should be added to this mbctme, as the excelleiioe of this com-
modiiy depends entirelj upon the united flaTor of the con^ salt and the sugar or
molasses.

HOARHOUND CANDY.

BoQ two ounces of dried hoarhound in a pint and a half of water for about

half an hour; strain, and add three and a half pounds of brown sugar; boil orer

a hot fire until sufficiently hard; pour out in flat, well-greased tins and marked

into sticdos or smaU squares with a knife as soon as cool enough to retain its di^^

JUJUBE PASTE.
Two cupfuls of sugar, one-quarter of a pound of gum arabic, one pint of
water. Flavor with the essence of lemon, and a grain of cochineaL Let the
mixture stand, until the gum is dissolved, in a warm place on the back of the
stove, then draw forward and cook until thick; try in cold water; it should be
limber and bend when cold. Pour in buttered pans, an eighth of an inch thick;
when cool, roll up in a scroll

CANDIED ORANGES.

Candied orange is a great delicacy, which is easily made: Peel and quarter
the oranges; make a syrup in the proportion of one pound of sugar to one pint
of water; let it boil until it will harden in water; then take it from the fire and
dip the quarters of orange in the syrup; let them drain on a fine sieve placed
over a platter, so that the syrup will not be wasted; let them drain this until
cool, when the sugar will crystalize. These are nice served with the last course
of dinner. Any fruit the same.

FIG CANDY.

One cup of sugar, one-third cup of water, one-fourth teaspoonful cream of
tarter. Do not stir while boiling. Boil to amber color, stir in the cream of tartar
just before taking from the fire. Wash the figs, open and lay in a tin pan and
pour the candy over them. Or you may dip them in the syrup the same as
" Candied Oranges."

CANDY ROLEY FOLEY.

Take half a pint of citron, half a pint of raisins, half a pound of figs, a quar-
ter of a pound of shelled almonds, one pint of peanuts before they are hulled;
cut up the citron, stone the raisins, blanch the almonds, and hull the peanuts;
cut up the figs into small bite. Take two pounds of coffee-sugar, and moisten
with vinegar; put in a piece of butter as large as a walnut; stew till it hardens,
but take off before it gete to the brittle stage; beat it with a spoon six or eight

CONFECTION-ER Y. 405

times; then stir in the mixed fruits and nuts. Pour into a wet cloth and roll it
up like a pudding, twisting the ends of the cloth to mold it. Let it get cold^ and
slice off pieces as it may be wanted for eating.

MOLASSES CANDY.

Put one quart of West India molasses, one cupful of brown sugar, a piece of
butter the size of half an egg, into a six-quart kettle. Let it boil over a slack
fire until it begins to look thick, stirring it often to prevent binning. Test it by
taking some out and dropping a few drops in a cup of cold water. If it hardens
quickly and breaks short between the teeth it is boiled enough. Now put in half
a teaspoonful of baking soda, and stir it well; then pour it out into well-buttered,
flat tins. When partly cooled, take up the candy with your hands well
buttered, then pull and double, and so on, until the candy is a whitish yellow.
It may be cut in strips and rolled or twisted.

If flavoring is desired, drop the flavoring on the top as it begins to cool, and
when it is pulled, the whole will be flavored.

STRAWBERRY CONSERVE.

Prepare the fruit as for preserving, allowing half a pound of loaf sugar to
one pound of fruit. Sprinkle the sugar over the fruit at night; in the morning,
put it on the fire in a kettle, and boil imtil the berries are clear. Spread on
dishes, and put in the sun imtil dry; after which, roll the fruit in sugar, and
pack in jars.

PEACH CONSERVE.

Halve the peaches and take out the stones; pare. Have ready some pow-
dered white sugar on a plate or dish. Roll the peaches in it several times, imtil
they wiU not take up any more. Place them singly on a plate, with the cup or
hoUow side up, that the juices may not run out. Lay them in the sim. The
next morning roll them again. As soon as the juice seems set in the peaches,
turn the other side to the sun. When they ai^e thoroughly dry, pack them in
glass jars, or, what is still nicer, fig-drums. They make an excellent sweetmeat
just as they are; or, if wanted for table use, put over the fire in porcelain, with
a very little water, and stew a few minutes.

PEACH LEATHER.

Stew as many peaches as you choose, allowing a quarter of a pound of sugar
to one of fruit; mash it up smooth as it cooks, and when it is dry enough to
spread in a thin sheet on a board greased with butter, set it out in the sun
to dry; when dry it can be rolled up like leather, wrapped up in a cloth, and

4o6 CONFECTIONERY.

will keep perfectly from season to season. School-children regard it as a delight-
ful addition to their lunch of biscuit or cold bread. Apple and quince leather
are made in the same fashion, only a httle flavoring or spice is added to them«

COCOANUT CARAMELS-

■

Two cupfuls of grated cocoanut, one cupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
flour, the whites of three eggs, beaten stiff. Soak the cocoanut, if dessicated,
in milk enough to cover it; then beat the whites of the eggs, add gradually the
sugar, cocoanut, and flour; with your fingers make, by rolling the mixture,
mto cone shapes. Place them on buttered sheets of tin, covered with buttered
letter-paper, and bake in a moderate heat about fifteen or twenty minutes.
They should cool before removing from the tins.

DRIED PRESERVES.
Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be converted into
dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup and then drying them slowly
on the stove, strewing them thickly with powdered sugar. They should be
turned every few hours, sifting over them more sugar.

CANDIES WITHOUT COOKING.

Very many candies made by confectioners are made without boiling, which
makes them very desirable, and they are equal to the best ** French Creams/'
The secret hes in the sugar used, which is the XXX powdered or confectioners'
sugar. Ordinary powdered sugar, when rubbed between the thumb and finger
has a decided grain, but the confectioners' sugar is fibue as flour. The candies
made after this process are better the day after.

FRENCH VANILLA CREAM.

Break into a bowl the white of one or more eggs, as the quantity you wish
to make wiU require; add to it an equal quantity of cold water, then stir in XXX
powdered or confectioners' sugar until you have it stiff enough to mold into
shape with the fingers. Flavor with vanilla to taste. After it is formed in
balls, cubes or lozenge shapes, lay them upon plates or waxed paper, and set
them aside to dry. This cream can be worked in candies similar to the French
cooked cream.

CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS.

These are made or molded into cone-shape forms with the flngers, from the
uncooked "French Cream," similar to that which is cooked. After forming
into these little balls or cones, lay them on oiled paper until the next day, to

CONFECTIONERY. 407

harden, or make them in the morning and leave them mitil afternoon. Then
melt some chocolate (the best confectioners') in a basin set in another basin of
boiling water; when melted, and the creams are hard enough to handle, take
one at a time on a fork, and drop into the melted chocolate, roll it until weU
covered, then slip from the fork upon oiled or waxed paper, and set them aside
to harden.

FRUIT AND NUT CREAMS.

itaisins seeded, currants, figs and citron, chopped fine, and mixed with the
uncooked " French Cream," while soft, before the sugar is all mixed in, makes
a delicious variety. Nuts also may be mixed with this cream, stirring into it
chopped almonds, hickory nuts, butternuts, or English walnuts, then forming
them into balls, bars or squares. Several kinds of nuts may be mixed together.

ORANGE DROPS.

Grate the rind of one orange and squeeze the juice, taking care to reject the
seeds; add to this a pinch of tartaric acid; then stir in confectioners' sugar until
it is stiff enough to form into small balls the size of a small marble. This is
delicious candy.

The same process for lemon drops, using lemons in place of orange. Color a
faint yeUow

COCOANUT CREAMS.

Make the uncooked cream as in the foregoing recipe. Take the cream while
soft, add fresh grated cocoanut to taste; add sufficient confectioners' sugar to
mold into balls and then roll the balls in the fresh grated cocoanut. These
may be colored pink with a few drops of cochineal syrup, also brown by adding
a few spoonfuls of grated chocolate; then rolling them in grated cocoanut; the
three colors are very pretty together. The cocoanut cream may be made into a
flat cake and cut into sqiiares or strips.

With this uncooked cream, all the recipes given for the cooked ** French
Cream," may be used: — EngUsh walnut creams, variegated creams, etc., etc

§4^^'^'

Boiling water is a very important desideratum in the making of a good cap
of coffee or tea, but the average housewife is very apt to overlook this fact.
Do not boil the water more than three or four minutes; longer boiling ruins the
water for coffee or tea-making, as most of its natural properties escape by
evaporation, leaving a very insipid liquid, composed mostly of lime and iron, that
would ruin the best coffee, and give the tea a dark, dead look, which ought to
be the reverse.

Water left in the tea-kettle over night must never he used for preparing the
breakfast coffee; no matter how excellent your coffee or tea may be, it will be
ruined by the addition of water that has been boiled more than once.

THE HEALING PROPERTIES OF TEA AND COFFEE.

The medical properties of these two beverages are considerable. Tea is used
advantageously in inflammatory diseases and as a cure for the headache. Coffee
is supposed to act as a preventive of gravel and gout, and to its influence is
ascribed the rarity of those diseases in France and Turkey. Both tea and coffee
powerfully counteract the effects of opium and intoxicating liquors; though,
when taken in excess, and without nourishing food, they themselves produce,
temporarily at least, some of the more disagreeable consequences incident to the
use of ardent spirits. In general, however, none but persons possessing great
mobility of the nervous system, or enfeebled or effeminate constitutions, are
injuriously affected by the moderate use of tea and coffee in connection with food*

One full coffee-cupful of ground coffee, stirred with one egg and part of the
shell, adding a half cupful of cold water. Put it into the coffee boiler, and pour
on to it a quart of boiling water; as it rises and begins to boil, stir it down with
a silver spoon or fork. Boil hard for ten or twelve minutes. Remove from the

COFFEE, TEAy BEVERAGES, 409

fire, and pour out a cupful of coffee, then pour back into the coffee-pot. Place
it on the back of the stove or range, where it will keep hot, (and not boil); it
will settle in about five minutes. Send to the table hot. Serve with good
cream and lump sugar. Three-quarters of a pound of Java and a quarter of a
pound of Mocha make the best mixture of coffee.

VIENNA COFFEE.

Equal parts of Mocha and Java coffee; aUow one heaping tablespoonful of
coffee to each person, and two extra to make good strength. Mix one egg with
grounds; pour on coffee half as much boihng water as will be needed; let coffee
froth, then stir down grounds, and let boil five minutes; then let coffee stand
where it will keep hot, but not boil, for five or ten minutes, and add rest of
water. To one pint of cream add the white of an egg, well-beaten; this is to
be put in cups with sugar, and hot coffee added.

FILTERED OR DRIP COFFEE.

For each person allow a large tablespoonful of finely ground coffee, and to
every tablespoonful allow a cupful of boiling water; the coffee to be one park
Mocha to two of Java.

Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-pot inside, and to
this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for the purpose must not be too
thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour some boiling water in it, and, when the
pot is well- warmed, put the ground coffee into the bag; pour over as much boil-
ing water as is required, close the Ud, and, when all the water has filtered
through, remove the bag, and send the coffee to table. Making it in this manner
prevents the necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another, which
cools and spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee gradually so that
the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be well made that none of the
groimds may escape through the seams and so make the coffee thick and muddy.

Patented coffee-pots on this principle can be purchased at most house-
furnishing stores.

ICED COFFEE.

Make more coffee than usual at breakfast time and stronger. When cold
put on ice. Serve with cracked ice in each tumbler.

SUBSTITUTE FOR CREAM IN COFFEE.

Beat the white of an egg put to it a small lump of butter and pour the coffee
into it gradually, stirring it so that it will not curdle. It is difficult to distinguish
this from fresh cream.

4IO COFFEE^ TEA,

Many drop a tiny paeoe of sweet butter into their cop of hot coffee as a sub-
stitote for cream.

TO MAKE TEA.

ADow^twoteaqxxnifalsof teatooEielaigecapfQlof boO Scald the

teapot, pot in the tea» poor on about a capful of bailing water, set it on the fire
in a warm place wiiere it will not boil, bat keep Y&ry hot, to almost boiling; let
it steep or ''draw'' ten or twdre minntes. Now fill op with as nmch boiling
water as is leqoired. Send Aof to the table. It is better to use a diina or porce-
lain teapot, bat if 70a dense metal let it be tin, new, bri^t and dean; noTer ose
it when the tin is worn off and the iron e:q[X)eed. If 70a do yoa are drinking
tea-ate of iron.

To make tea to perfection, boiling water mast be poaied on the leaves
directly it boils. Water which has been boiling more than five minntes, or
which has previoasly boiled, shoald on no acconnt be need. If the water does
not boil, or if it be allowed to overboil, the leaves of the tea will be only half -
opened and the tea itself win be qaite spoiled. The water shoald be allowed to
remain on the leaves from ten to fifteen minntes.

A Chinese being interviewed for the Cook says: Diink yonr tea plain.
Don't add milk or sagar. Tea-brokers and tea-tasters never do; epicnies never
do; the Chinese never do. Milk contains fibrin, albumen or some other stof^
and the tea a delicate amount of tannin. Mixing the two makes the Uqoid
turbid. This turbidity, if I remember the cylopaedia aright, is tannate of fibrin,
or leather. People who put milk in tea are therefore drinking boots and shoes
in mild disguise.

ICED TEA.

Is now served to a considerable extent during the summer months. It is of
course used without milk, and the addition of sugar serves only to destroy the
finer tea flavor. It may be prepared some hours in advance, and should be
made stronger than when served hot. It is bottled and placed in tbo ice-chest
tin required. Use the black or green teas, or both, mixed, as fancied. N^

CHOCOLATE.

AHow half a cupful of grated chocolate to a pint of water and a pint of milk.
Bnb the chocolate smooth in a little cold water, and stir into the boiling water.
Boil twenty minutes, add the milk and IxA ten minutes more, stirring it often.
Sweeten to your taste.

The French put two cupfnls of boiling water to each cupful of chocolate.

COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 4 1 1

They throw in the chocolate just as the water commences to boU. Stir it with
a spoon as soon as it boils up, add two cupfuls of good milk, and when it has
boiled suflBdently, serve with a spoonful of thick whipped cream with each cup.

COCOA.

Six tablespoonfuls of cocoa to each pint of water, as much milk as water,
sugar to taste. Bub cocoa smooth in a little cold water; have ready on the fire
a pint of boiling water; stir in grated cocoa paste. Boil twenty minutes, add
milk and boil five minutes more, stirring often. Sweeten in cups so as to suit
different tastes.

BUTTERMILK AS A DRINK.

Buttermilk, so generally regarded as a waste product, has latterly been com-
ing somewhat into vogue, not only as a nutrient, but as a therapeutic agent,
and in an editorial article the Canada Lancety some time ago, highly extoUed
its virtues. Buttermilk may be roughly described as milk which has lost most
of its fat and a small percentage of casein, and which has become sour by fer-
mentation. Long experience has demonstrated it to be an agent of superior
digestibility. It is, indeed, a true milk peptone — ^that is, milk already partially
digested, the coagulation of the coagulable portion being loose and flaky, and not
of that firm indigestible nature which is the result of the action of the gastric
juice upon sweet cow's milk. It resembles koimiiss in its nature, and, with the
exception of that article, it is the most grateful, refreshing, and digestible of
the products of milk. It is a decided laxative to the bowels, a fact which must
be borne in mind in the treatment of typhoid fever, and which may be turned
to advantage in the treatment of habitual constipation. It is a diuretic, and
may be prescribed with advantage in some kidney troubles. Owing to its
acidity, combined with its laxative properties, it is believed to exercise a general
impression on the liver. It is well adapted to many cases where it is customary
to recommend lime water and milk. It is invaluable in the treatment of dia-
betes, either exclusively, or alternating with skimmed milk. In some cases of
gastric ulcer and cancer of the stomach, it is the only food that can Vyretained.

— Medical Journal.

CURRANT WINE. No. i.

The currants should be quite ripe. Stem, mash and strain them, adding a
half pint of water and less than a pound of sugar to a quart of the mashed
fruit. Stir well up together, and pour into a dean cask, leaving the bung-hole
open, or covered with a piece of lace. It should stand for a month to ferment.

4 1 2 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES.

when it will be ready for bottling; just before bottling you' may add a smaD
quantity of brandy or whiskey.

CURRANT WINE. No. 2.

To each quart of currant juice, add two quarts of soft water and three pounds
of brown sugar. Put into a jug or small keg, leaving the top open until fer-
mentation ceases, and it looks dear. Draw off and cork tightly.

— I/mg Island recipe.

BLACKBERRY WINE. No. i.

Cover your blackberries with cold water; crush the berries well with a wooden
masher; let them stand twenty-four hours; then strain, and to one gallon of
juice put three pounds of common brown sugar; put into wide-mouthed jars for
several days, carefully skimming off the scum that will rise to the top; put in
several sheets of brown paper, and let them remain in it three days; then skim
again, and pour thi'ough a funnel into your cask. There let it remain undis-
turbed tiU March; then strain again, and bottle. These directions, if carefully
followed out, wiU insure you excellent wine.

— Orange GbutUy redpe.

BLACKBERRY WINE. No. 2.

Berries should be ripe and plump. Put into a large wood or stone vessel
with a tap; pour on sufficient boiling water to cover them; when cool enough
to bear your hand, bruise well imtil all the berries are broken; cover up, let
stand imtil berries begin to rise to top, which will occur in th^ or four days.
Then draw off the clear juice in another vessel, and add one ^und of sugar to
every ten quarts of the liquor, and stir thoroughly. Let stand six to ten days
in first vessel with top; then draw off through a jelly bag. Steep four ounces
of isinglass in a pint of wine for twelve hours; boil it over a slow fire till all
dissolved, then place dissolved isinglass in a gallon of blackberry juice, give them
a boil together, and pour all into the vessel. Let stand a few days to ferment
and settle, draw off and keep in a cool place. Other berry wines may be made
in the same manner.

GRAPE WINE.

Mash the grapes and strain them through a cloth; put the skins in a tub after
squeezing them, with barely enough water to cover them; strain the juice thus
obtained into the first portion; put three pounds of sugar to one gallon of the
mixture; let it stand in an open tub to ferment, covered with a doth, for a
period of from three to seven days; skim off what rises every morning. Put

COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 413

the juice in a cask, and leave it open for twenty-four hours; then bung it up,
and put clay over the bung to keep the air out. Let your wine remain in the
cask until March, when it should be drawn off and bottled.

FLORIDA ORANGE WINE.

Wipe the oranges with a wet cloth, peel off the yellow rind very thin, squeeze
the oranges, and strain the juice through a hair sieve; msasure the juice after
it is strained, and for each gallon allow three pounds of granulated sugar, the
white and sheD of one egg, and one-third of a gallon of cold water; put the sugar,
the white and shell of the egg (crushed small) and the water over the fire, and stir
them every two minutes until the eggs begins to harden; then boil the syrup
until it looks clear xmder the froth of egg. which will form on the surface; strain
the syrup, pour it upon the orange rind, and let it stand over night; then next
add the orange-juice and again let it stand over night; strain it the second day,
and put it into a tight cask with a small cake of compressed yeast to about ten
gallons of wine, and leave the bung out of the cask imtil the wine ceases to
ferment; the hissing noise continues as long as fermentation is in progress; when
fermentation ceases, close the cask by driving in the bung, and let the wine
stand about nine months before bottling it; three months after it is bottled, it
can be used. A glass of brandy added to each gallon of wine after fermentation
ceases is generally considered an improvement.

There are seasons of the year when Florida oranges by the box are very
cheap, and this fine wine can be made at a small expense.

METHELIN, OR HONEY WINE.

This is a very ancient and popular drink in the north of Europe. To some
new honey, strained, add spring water; put a whole egg into it; boil this liquor
till the egg swims above the hquor; strain, pour it in a cask. To every fifteen
gallons add two oimces of white Jamaica ginger, bruised, one ounce of cloves
and mace, one and a half ounces of cinnamon, aU bruised together, and tied up
in a muslin bag; accelerate the fermentation with yeast; when worked sufS-
ciently, bung up; in six weeks draw off into bottles.

Another Mead. — Boil the combs, from which the honey has been drained, with
sufficient water to make a tolerably sweet liquor; ferment this with yeast, and
proceed as per previous formula.

SacJc Mead is made by adding a handful of hops and sufficient brandy to the
comb Uquor.

4H COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES.

BLACK CURRANT WINE.

Four quarts of whiskey, four quarts of black currants; four pounds of brown
or white sugar, one tablespoonful of cloves; one tablespoonful of cinnamon.

Crush the currants^ and let them stand in the whiskey with the spices for
three weeks; then strain and add the sugar; set away again for three weeks
longer; then strain and bottle.

RAISIN WINE.

Take two pounds of raisins, seed and chop them, a lemon, a pound of white
sugar, and about two gallons of boiling water. Pour into a stone jar, and stir
daily for sue or eight days. Strain, bottle, and put in a cool place for ten days
or so, when the wine will be ready for use.

CHERRY BOUNCE.

To one gallon of wild cherries add enough good whiskey to cover the fruit.
Let soak two or three weeks and then drain off the liquor. Mash the cherries
without breaking the stones and strain through a jelly-bag; add this liquor to
that already drained off. Make a syrup with a giU of water and a pound of
white sugar to every two quarts of liquor thus prepared; stir in well and bottle,
and tightly cork. A common way of making cheny bounce is to put wild
cherries and whiskey together in a jug and use the liquor as wanted.

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL.

Warm and squeeze the berries; add to one pint of juice one pound of white
sugar, one-half ounce of powdered cinnamon, one-fourth ounce of mace, two
teaspoonfuls of cloves. Boil all together for one-fourth of an hour; strain the
syrup, and to each pint add a glass of French brandy. Two or three doses of a
tablespoonful or less will check any slight diarrhoea. When the attack is
violent, give a tablespoonful after each discharge, until the complaint is in
subjection. It will arrest dysentery if given in season, and is a pleasant and
safe remedy. Excellent for children when teething.

HOP BEER.

Take five quarts of water, six ounces of hops, boil it three hours; then strain
the liquor, add to it five quarts of water, four ounces of bruised ginger root, boil
this again twenty minutes, strain and add four pounds of sugar. When luke-
warm, put in a pint of yeast. Let it ferment; in twenty-four hours it will be
ready for bottling.

COFFEE, TEA. BEVERAGES. 415

GINGER BEER.

Put into a kettle two ounces of powdered ginger root (or more if it is not
very strong), half an ounce of cream of tartar, two large lemons, cut in slices,
two pounds of broken loaf sugar, and two gallons of soft boiling water. Simmer
them over a slow fire for half an hour. When the liquor is nearly cold, stir into
it a large tablespoonful of the best yeast. After it has fermented, which will
be in about twenty-four hours, bottle for use.

SPRUCE BEER.

Allow an ounce of hops and a spoonful of ginger to a gallon of water. When
well^boiled, strain it, and put in a pint of molasses, or a poxmd of brown sugar,
and half an ounce or less of the essence of spruce; when cool, add a teacupful
of yeast, and put into a clean, tight cask, and let it ferment for a day or two,
then bottle it for use. You can boil the sprigs of spruce fir in place of the
essence.

ROMAN PUNCH. No. i.

Grate the yellow rind of f oin* lemons and two oranges upon two pounds of
loaf sugar. Squeeze the juice of the lemons and oranges; cover the juice and
let it stand until the next day. Strain it through a sieve, mix with the sugar;
add a bottle of champagne and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
It may be frozen or not, as desired. For winter use snow instead of ice.

ROMAN PUNCH. No. 2.

Make two quarts of lemonade, rich with pure juice lemon fruit; add one
tablespoonful of extract of lemon. Work well, and freeze; just before serving,
add for each quart of ice half a pint of brandy and half a pint of Jamaica rum.
Mix well and serve in high glasses, as this makes what is called a semi or half-
ice. It is usually served at dinners as a coup de milieu.

DELICIOUS JUNKET.

Take two quarts of new milk, warm it on the stove to about blood-heat;
pour it into a glass or china bowl, and stir into it two tablespoonf uls of Grosse &
Blackwell's prepared rennet, two tablespoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and a
small wine-glassful of j>ale brandy. Let it stand tiH cold and eat with sugar aud
rich cream. Half the quantity can be made.

RASPBERRY SHRUB.

One quart of raspberry juice, half a pound of loaf sugar, dissolved, a pint of
Jamaica rum, or part rum and brandy. Mix thoroughly. Bottle for use.

41 6 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES.

SASSAFRAS MEAD.

MiT gradually with two quarts of boiling water three pounds and a half of
the best brown sugar^ a pint and a half of good West India molasses, and a
quarter of a pound of tartaric add. Stir it well, and when cool, strain it into
a large jug or pan, then mix in a teaspoonful (not more) of essence of sassafras.
Transfer it to clean bottles, (it will fill about half a doz^i,) cork it tightly, and
keep it in a cool place. It will be fit for use next day. Put into a box or boxes
a quarter of a poimd of carbonate of soda, to use with it. To prepare a glass of
sassafras mead for drinking, put a large tablespoonful of the mead into a half
tumbler full of ice- water, stir into it a half teaspoonful of fche soda, and it will
knmediately foam up to the top.

Sassafras mead will be found a cheap, wholesome, and pleasant beverage for
i7arm weather. The essence of sassafras, tartaric acid and carbonate of soda,
»ian, of course, all be obtained at the druggist's. '

CREAM SODA WITHOUT THE FOUNTAIN.

Coffee-sugar, four poimds; three pints of water, three nutmegs, grated, the
whites of ten eggs, wcill-beaten, gum arable, one ounce; twenty drops of oil of
lemon, or extract equal to that amount. By using oils of other fruits, you can
make as many flavors from this as you desire. Mix all, and place over a gentle
fire, and stir well about thirty minutes; remove from the fire and strain, and
divide into two parts; into one-half put eight oimces of bi -carbonate of soda^ into
the other half put six ounces of tartaric acid. Shake well, and when cold they
are ready for use by pouring three or four spoonfuls from both parts into sepa-
rate glasses, each one-third fuU of water. Stir each and i>our together, and you
haveanice glass of cream soda which you can drink at your leisure, as the gum
and eggs hold the gas.

WINE WHEY.

Sweeten one pint of milk to taste, and when boiling, throw in two wine-
glasses of sherry; when the curd forms, strain the whey through a muslin bag
into tumblers.

LEMON SYRUP.

Take the juice of twelve lemons; grate the rind of six in it, let it stand over
night; then take six pounds of white sugar, and make a thick syrup. When it
is quite cool, strain the juice into it, and squeeze as much oil from the grated
rind as will suit the taste. Put in bottles, securely corked, for future use. A
tablespoonful in a goblet of water wiU make a delicious drink on a hot day.

COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 417

FOR A SUMMER DRAUGHT.

The juice of one lemon, a tumblerful of cold water, pounded sugar to taste,
-half a small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Squeeze the juice from the
lemon; strain, and add it to the water, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten
the whole nicely. When well-mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while
lihe mixtui-e is in an effervescing state.

NOYEAU CORDIAL.

To one gallon of proof spirit add three poimds of loaf sugar and a table-
-spoonful of extract of almonds. Mix well together, and allow to stand forty-
eight hours, covered closely; now strain through thick flannel, and bottle. This
Jiquor will be much improved by adding half a pint of apricot or peach juice.

EGG NOGG.

Beat the yellows of twelve eggs very hght, stir in as much white sugar as
they will dissolve, pour in gradually one glass of brandy to cook the eggs, one
glass of old whiskey, one grated nutmeg, and three pints of rich milk. Beat the
whites to a froth and stir in last.

EGG FLIP, OR MULLED ALE.

Boil one quart of good ale, with some nutmeg; beat up six eggs, and mix
them with a little cold ale; then pour the hot ale to it, and pour it back and forth
several times to prevent its curdling; warm, and stir it tUl sufficiently thick; add
a, piece of butter or a glass of brandy, and serve it with dry toast.

MILK PUNCH.

One pint of milk made very sweet; a wine-glassful of brandy or rum, well-
Btirred together; grate a little nutmeg over the top of the glasses. Serve with a
43traw in each glass.

FINE MILK PUNCH.

Pare off the yellow rind of four large lemons, and steep it for twenty -four
hours in a quart of brandy or rum. Then mix with it the juice of the lemons,
a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, two grated nutmegs, and a quart of water.
Add a quart of rich unskimmed milk, made boiling hot, and strain the whole
through a jelly bag. You may either use it as soon as it is cold, or make a larger
quantity (in the above proportions), and bottle it. It will keep several months.

41 8 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES.

TO MAKE HOT PUNCH.

Half a pint of nun, half a pint of brandy, quarter of a pound of sugar, (me
large lemon, half a teaspoonful of nutm^, one pint of boiling water.

Rub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all the yellow part of the
skin, then put the sugar into a punch-bowl; add the lemon- juice (free from pips),
and mix these two ingredients, well together. Pour over them the boiling water,
stir well together, add the rum, brandy, and nutm^; mix thoroughly and the
punch will be ready to serve. It is very important in making good punch that
all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated; and to insure success, the pro-
cesses of mixing must be diligently attended to. (This is an old-style punch.)

LEMONADE.

Three lemons to a pint of water makes strong lemonade; sweeten to your
taste.

STRAWBERRY WATER.

Take one cupful of ripe hulled berries; crush with a wooden spoon, TnJTing
with the mass a quarter of a poiuid of pulverized sugar and half a pint of cold
water. Pour the mixture into a fine sieve, rub through and filter till dear; add
the strained juice of one lemon and one and a half pints of cold water, mix
thoroughly, and set in ice-chest tOl wanted.

This makes a nice, cool drink on a warm day, and easily to be made in straw-
berry season.

STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY SYRUP.

Mash the fresh fruit, express the juice, and to each quart add three and a
half pounds of granulated sugar. The juice, heated to ISO"" Fahrenheit, and
strained or filtered previous to dissolving the sugar, will keep for an indefinite
time, canned hot in glass jars.

The juice of soft fruits is best when allowed to drop therefrom by its own
weight, lightly mash the fruit and then suspend in a cloth, allowing the juice to
drop in a vessel beneath. Many housekeepers, after the bottles and jars are
thoroughly washed and dried, smoke them with sulphur in this way: Take a
piece of wire and bend it around a small piece of brimstone the size of a bean;
set the brimstone on fire, put it in the jar or bottle, bending tho. other end over
the mouth of the vessel, and cover with a cork; after the brimstone has biu-ned
away, fill the vessel with the syrup or preserves and cover tightly. There is no
sulphurous taste left by the process.

COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 419

KOUMISS.

Koumiss is prepared by dissolving four ounces of white sugar in one gallon
of skimmed milk, and placing in bottles of the capacity of one quart; add two
ounces of bakers' yeast, or a cake of compressed yeast to each bottle. Cork and
tie securely, set in a warm place tmtil fermentation is weU under way, and lay
the bottles on their sides in a cool cellar. In three days, fermentation wiU have
progressed sufficiently to permit the koumiss to be in good condition.

PINEAPPLE VINEGAR.

Cover sliced pine-apples with pure cider vinegar; let them stand three or four
days, then mash and strain through a cloth as long as it runs clear; to every
three quarts of juice add five pounds of sugar.

Boil it all together about ten minutes, skim carefuUy until nothing rises to
the surface, take from the fire; when cool, bottle it. Blackberries and rasp-
berries, and, in fact, any kind of highly flavored fruit, is fine; a tablespoonful
in a glass of ice-cold water, to drink in warm weather.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR. No. i.

Put a quart of raspberries into a suitable dish, pour over them a quart of
good vin^ar, let it stand twenty-four hours, then strain through a flaimel bag,
and pour this liquor on another quart of berries; do this for three or four days
successively, and strain it; make it very sweet with loaf sugar; bottle, and seal it.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR. No. 2.

Turn over a quart of ripe raspberries, mashed, a quart of good cider vinegar,,
add one poimd of white sugar, mix well, then let stand in the sun four hours.
Strain it, squeeze out the juice, and put in a pint of good brandy. Seal it up
in bottles, air tight, and lay them on their sides in the cellar; cover them with
sawdust. When used, pour two tablespoonfuls to a tumblerful of ice- water.
Fine.

HOME-MADE TABLE VINEGAR.
Put in an open cask four gallons of warm rain -water, one gallon of commoa
molasses, and two quarts of yeast; cover the top with thin muslin and leave it
in the sun, covering it up at night and when it rains. In three or four weeks it
will be good vinegar. H cider can be used in place of rain-water the vinegar
will make much sooner — wiU not take over a week to make a very sharp vinegar^
Excellent, for pickling purposes.

420 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES.

VERY STRONG TABLE VINEGAR.

Take two gallons of good dder and thoroughly mix it with two pounds of

new honey, pour into your cask or bottle, and let it stand from four to six

months, when you will have vinegar so strong that it cannot be used at table

^thout diluting with water. It is the best ever procured for pickling purposes.

PINEAPPLE-ADE-
Pare and slice some very ripe pineapples; then cut the sUces into small pieces.
Put them with all their juice into a large pitcher, and sprinkle among them
plenty of powdered white sugar. Pour on boiling water, aflowing a smaU half
pint to each pineapple. Cover the pitcher, and let it st€md till quite cool, oc-
casionally pressing down the pineapple with a spoon. Then set the pitcher for
a while in ice. Lastly, strain the infusion into another vessel, and transfer it
to tumblers, putting into each glass some more sugar and a bit of ice. This
l>everage will be found delicious.

SEIDLITZ POWDERS.
Fold in a white paper a mixture of one drachm of Bochelle salts and twenty-
five grains of carbonate of soda, in a blue paper twenty grains of tartaric
acid. They should all be pulverized very finely. Put the contents of the white
paper into a tumbler, not quite half fuU of cold water, and stir it till dissolved.
Then put the mixture from the blue paper into another tumbler with the same
quantity of water, and stir that also. When the powders are dissolved in both
tumblers, pour the first into the other, and it will eff eiVesce immediately. Drink
it quickly, while foaming.

INEXPENSIVE DRINKL

A very nice, cheap drink which may take the place of lemonade, and be found
fully as healthful, is made vdth one cupful of pure cider vin^ar, half a cupfal
of good molasses, put into one quart pitcher of ice- water. A tablespoonful of
.ground ginger added makes a healthful beverage.

Dishes for invalids should be served in the daintiest and most attractive way;
never send more than a supply for one meal; the same dish too frequently set
before an invalid often causes a distaste, when perhaps a change would tempt
the appetite.

When preparing dishes where milk is used, the condition of the patient should
be considered. Long cooking hardens the albumen and makes the milk very
constipating; then, if the patient should be already constipated^ care should be
taken not to heat the milk above the boiling point.

The seasoning of food for the sick should be varied according to the condition
of the patient; one recovering from illness can partake of a little piece of roast
mutton, chicken, rabbit, game, fish, simply dressed, and simple puddings are ail
light food and easily digested. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed and broiled,
is a dish that is often inviting to an invalid. As a rule, an invalid wiU be more
likely to enjoy any preparation sent to him if it is served in small, delicate
pieces. As there are so many small, dainty dishes that can be made for this
purpose, it seems useless to try to more than give a small variety of them.
Pudding can be made of prepared barley, or tapioca, well-soaked before boiling,
with an egg added, and a change can be made of light puddings by mixing up
some stewed fruit with the puddings before baking; a bread pudding from stale
bread-crumbs, and a tiny cup-custard, boiled in a small basin or cup; also various
drinks, such as milk ptmch, wine, whey, apple-toddy, and various other nourish-
ing drinks.

BEEFSTEAK AND MUTTO^N CHOPS.

Select the tenderest cuts, and broil over a dear, hot fire. Let the steak be
rare, the chops well done. Salt and pepper; lay between two hot plates three
minutes, and serve to your patient. If he is very weak, do not let him swallow
anything except the juice, when he has chewed the meat welL The essence of
rare beef, roasted or broiled, thus expressed, is considered by some physicians to
be more strengthening than beef tea prepared in the usual manner.

422 FOR THE SICK.

BEEF TEA.
One pound of lean beef, cut into small pieces. Put into a glass canning- jar
without a drop of water; cover tightly, and set in a pot of cold water. Heat
gradually to a boil, and continue this steadily for three or four hours, until the
meat is like white rags, and the juice all drawn out. Season with salt to taste,
and when cold, skim.

VEAL OR MUTTON BROTH.
Take a scrag-end of mutton (two pounds), put it in a sauce-pan, with two
quarts of cold water, and an ounce of pearl barley or rice. When it is coming
to a boil, skim it weU, then add half a teaspoonful of salt; let it boil until half
reduced, then strain it, and take off all the fat, and it is ready for use. This is
excellent for an invalid. If v^etables are liked in this broth, take one turnip,
one carrot, and one onion, cut them in shreds, and boil them in the broth half
an hour. In that case, the barley may be served with the vegetables in broth.

CHICKEN BROTH.

Make the same as mutton or beef broth. Boil the chicken slowly, putting
on just enough water to cover it well, watching it closely that it does not boil
down too much. When the chicken is tender, season with salt and a very little
pepper. The yolk of an egg beaten light and added, is very nourishing.

OATMEAL GRUEL.

Put four tablespoonfuls of the best grits (oatmeal coarsely ground) into a
pint of boiling water. Let it boil gently, and stir it often, till it becomes as thick
as you wish it. Then strain it, and add to it while warm, butter, wine, nutm^,
or whatever is thought proper to flavor it. Salt to taste.

If you make the gruel of fine oatmeal, sift it, mix it first to a thick batter
with a httle cold water, and then put it into the sauce-pan of boiling water.
Stir it all the time it is boiling, lifting the spoon gently up and down, and letting
the gruel fall slowly back again into the pan.

CORN-MEAL GRUEL.

Two tablespoonfuls of fine Indian meal, mixed smooth with cold water and a
salt-spoonful of salt; add one quart of boiling water, and cook twenty minutes.
Stir it frequently, and if it becomes too thick use boiling water to thin it. If the
stomach is not too weak, a tablespoonful of cream may be used to cool it.
Some like it sweetened and others like it plain. For very sick persons, let it
settle, pour off the top, and give without other seasoning. For convalescents,
toast a piece of bread as nicely as possible, and put it in the gruel with a table-

FOa THE SICK. 423

spoonful of nice sweet cream, and a little ginger and sugar. This should be
used only when a laxative is allowed.

EGG GRUEL.

Beat the yolk of an egg with one tablespoonful of sugar; pour one teacupful
of boiling water on it; add the white of an egg, beaten to a froth, with any
seasoning or spice desired. Take warm.

MILK PORRIDGE.

The same as arrowroot, excepting it should be all milk, and thickened with
a scant tablespoonful of sifted flour; let it boil five minutes, stirring it con-
tinually, add a little cold milk, and give it one boil up, and it is ready for use.

ARROWROOT MILK PORRIDGE.

One large cupful of fresh milk, new if you can get it; one cupful of boiling
water; one teaspoonful of arrowroot, wet to a paste with cold water; two tea-
spoonfuls of white sugar; a pinch of salt. Put the sugar into the milk, the salt
into the boiling water, which should be poured into a farina-kettle. Add the
wet arrowroot, and boil, stirring constantly until it is clear; put in the milk, and
cook ten minutes, stirring often. Give while warm, adding hot milk should it
be thicker than gruel.

ARROWROOT BLANC MANGE.

One large cupful of boiling milk, one even tablespoonful of arrowroot rubbed
to a paste with cold water, two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, a pinch of salt;
flavor with rose-water. Proceed as in the foregoing recipes, boiling and stirring
eight minutes. Turn into a wet mold, and when firm, serve with cream and
powdered sugar.

TAPIOCA JELLY.

Soak a cupful of tapioca in a quart of cold water, after washing it thoroughly
two or three times; after soaking three or four hours, sinuner it in a stew-pan
until it becomes quite clear, stirring often; add the juice of a lemon, and a lit-
tle of the grated peel, also a pinch of salt. Sweeten to taste. Wine can be
substituted for lemon, if hked.

SLIPPERY-ELM BARK TEA.

Break the bark into bits, pour boiling water over it, cover, and let it infuse
until cold. Sweeten, ice, and take for summer disorders, or add lemon juice and
drink for a bad cold.

424 ^OR THE SICK.

FLAX-SEED TEA.

Upon an ounce of unbruised flax-seed and a little pulverized liquorice-root
pour a pint of boiling (soft or rain) water; and place the vessel containing these
ingredients near, but not on^ the fire for four hours. Strain through a linen
cloth. Make it fresh every day. An excellent drink in fever accompanied by a
cough.

FLAX-SEED LEMONADE.

To a large tablespoonful of flax-seed, allow a tumbler and a half of cold water.
Boil them together till the hquid becomes very sticky. Then strain it hot over
a quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar, and an ounce of pulverized gum arabic.
Stir it till quite dissolved, and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon.

This mixture has frequently been found an efiicacious remedy for a cold,
taking a wine-glass of it as often as the cough is troublesome.

TAMARIND WATER.

Put tamarinds into a pitcher or tumbler till it is one- third full; then fill up
with cold water, cover it, and let it infuse for a quarter of an hour or more.

Currant jelly or cranberry juice mixed with water makes a pleasant drink
for an invalid.

SAGO JELLY.

Made the same as tapioca. If seasoning is not advisable, the sago may be
boiled in milk, instead of water, and eaten plain.

Eice jelly made the same, using only halE as much rice as sago.

ARROWROOT WINE JELLY.

One cupful of boiling water, one scant tablespoonful of arrowroot; mix with
a little cold water; one tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, one tablespoonful
of brandy, or three tablespoonfuls of wine. Excellent for a sick person without
fever.

HOMINY.

Put to soak one pint of hominy in two and one-half pints of boiling water
over night, in a tin vessel with a tight cover; in the morning add one-half pint
of sweet milk, and a httle salt. Place on a brisk fire in a kettle of boiling water^
the tin vessel containing the hominy; let boil one-half hour.

Cracked wheat, oatmeal, mush, are all good food for the sick.

FOR THE SICK. 425:

CHICKEN JELLY.

Cook a chicken in enough water to little more than cover it; let it stew gently
until the meat drops from the bones, and the broth is reduced to about a pint;
season it to taste, with a little salt and pepper. Strain and press, first through
a colander, then through a coarse cloth. Set it over the fire again, and cook a
few minutes longer. Turn it into an earthen vegetable dish to harden; set it on
the ice in the refrigerator. Eat cold in slices. Nice made into sandwiches, with.
thin slices of bread, lightly spread with butter.

BOILED RICE.

Boil half a cupful of rice in just enough water to cover it, with half a tea
spoonful of salt; when the water has boiled nearly out and the rice begins to look .
soft and dry, turn over it a cupful of milk, and let it simmer until the rice is
done and nearly dry; take from the fire and beat in a weU-beaten egg. EJat it
warm with cream and sugar. Flavor to taste.

CUP PUDDING.

Take one tablespoonful of flour, one egg; mix with cold milk and a pinch of
salt to a batter. Boil fifteen minutes in a buttered cup. Eat with sauce, fruit,
or plain sugar.

TAPIOCA CUP PUDDING.

This is very light and delicate for invalids. An even tablespoonful of tapioca,
soaked for two hours in nearly a cup of new milk; stir into this the yolk of a.
fresh egg, a Uttle sugar, a grain of salt, and bake it in a cup for fifteen minutes.
A Uttle jelly may be eaten with it.

BAKED APPLES.

Gret nice fruit, a little tart and juicy, but not sour; clean them nicely, and
bake in a moderate oven — ^regulated so as to have them done in about an hour;
when the skin cracks and the pulp breaks through in every direction they are
done and ready to take out. Serve with white sugar sprinkled over them.

SOFT TOAST.
Toast well, but not too brown, two thin slices of stale bread; put them on a
warm plate, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and pour upon them some boiling,
water; quickly cover with another dish of the same size, and drain off the water..
Put a very smaU bit of butter on the toast and serve at once whil^ hot.

426 FOR THE SICK.

IRISH MOSS BLANC MANGE.

A small handful of moss (to be purchased at any drug store); wash it very
carefully, and put it in one quart of millr on the fire. Let the milk simmer for
about twenty minutes, or until the moss begins to dissolve. Then remove from
the fire and strain through a fine sieve. Add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and
lialf a teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring. Put away to harden in cups or molds,
and serve with sugar and cream.

A delicate dish for an invalid. ^.

EGG TOAST.

Brown a slice of bread ziicely over the coals, dip it in hot water slightly salted,
l>utter it, and lay on the top an egg that has been broken into boiling water, and
cooked until the white has hardened; season the egg with a bit of butter and a
crumb of salt.

The best way to cook eggs, for an invalid is to drop them, or else pour boiling
water over the egg in the shell and let it stand for a few minutes on the back of
the stove.

OYSTER TOAST.

Make a nice slice of dry toast, butter it and lay it on a hot dish. Put six
oysters, half a teacupful of their own liquor, and half a cupful of milk, into a
tin cup or basin, and boil one minute. Season with a little butter, pepper and
salt, then pour over the toast and serve.

MULLED JELLY.

Take one tablespoonful of currant or grape jelly ; beat with it the white of
one egg and a teaspoonful of sugar; pour on it a teacupful of boiling water, and
break in a slice of dry toast or two crackers.

CUP CUSTARD.

Break into a coffee-cup an ^g, put in two teaspoonfuls of sugar, beat it up
thoroughly, a piach of salt and a pinch of grated nutmeg; fill up the cup with
good sweet milk ; turn it into another cup, well buttered, and set it in a pan of
l>oiling water, reaching nearly to the top of the cup. Set in the oven, and when
the custard is set, it is done. Eat cold.

CLAM BROTH.

Select twelve small, hardshell clams, drain them, and chop them fine; add
half a pint of dam juice or hot water, a pinch of cayenne, and a walnut of

FOR THE SICK. 427

batter; simmer thirty minutes; add a gill of boiled milk, strain, and serve.
This is an excellent broth for weak stomachs.

MILK OR CREAM CODFISH.

This dish wiU often relish when a person is recovering from sickness, when
nothing else would. Pick up a large tablespoonful of salt codfish veiy fine;
freshen it considerably by placing it over the fire in a basin, covering it with
cold water as it comes to a boil; turn off the water and freshen again if very
salt, then turn off the water imtil dry, and pour over half a cupful of milk or
thin cream; add a bit of butter, a sprinkle cTf pepper, and a thickening made of
one teaspoonful of flour or corn-starch, wet up with a little milk; when this boils
up, turn over a slice of dipped toast.

CRACKER PANADA.

Break in pieces three or f om* hard crackers that are baked quite brown, and
let them boil fifteen minutes in one quart of water; then remove from the fire,
let them stand thre6 or four minutes, strain off the liquor through a fiuue wire
sieve, and season it with sugar.

This is a nourishing beverage for infants that are teething, and with the
addition of a little wine and nutmeg, is often prescribed for invalids recovering
from a fever.

BREAD PANADA

Put three gills of water and one tablespoonful of white sugar on the fire,
and just before it boils add two tablespoonfuls of the crumbs of stale white
bread; stir it well, and let it boil three or four minutes; then add one glass of
white wine, a grated lemon and a little nutmeg; let it boil up once, then remove
it from the fire, and keep it closely covered until it is wanted for use.

SLIPPERY-ELM TEA.

Put a teaspoonful of powdered sUppery-elm into a tumbler, pour cold water
upon it, and season with lemon and sugar.

TOAST WATER, OR CRUST COFFEE.

Take stale pieces of crusts of bread, the end pieces of the loaf; toast them a
nice, dark brown, care to be taken that they do not bum in the least, as that
affects the fiavor. Put the browned crusts into a large milk pitcher, aod pour
enough boiling water over to cover them; cover the pitcher closely, and let steep
until cold. Strain, and sweeten to taste; put a piece of ice in each glass.

This is also good, drank warm with cream and sugar, similar to coffee.

428 FOR THE SICK.

PLAIN MILK TOAST.
Cot a thin dioe from a loaf of stale bread, toast it Tory quickly, sprinkle a
little salt over it, and ponr upon it three tablespoonfols of boiling milk or cream.
Cradkers split and toasted in this manner, are often very grateful to an invalid.

LINSEED TEA.

Pot one tablespoonful of linseed into a stew-pan with half a pint of cold
water; place the stew-pan over a moderate fire, and, when the water is quite
warm, pour it off, and add to the linseed half a pint of fresh cold water; then
let the whole boil three or four minutes; season it with lemon and sugar.

POWDERS FOR CHILDREN.

A very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may be kept in the
house, and employed with advantage whenever the child is in pain or griped,
dropping five grains of oil of anise-seed and two of peppeimiiLt on half an ounce
of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar, with a drachm of magnesia^ into a
fine powder. A small quantity of this may be given in a little water at any
time, and always with benefit.

FOR CHILDREN TEETHING.

Tie a quarter of a pound of wheat flour in a thick doth, and boil it in one
quart of water for three hours; then remove the doth and expose the flour to
the air or heat until it is hard and dry; grate from it, when wanted, one table-
spoonful, which put into half a pint of new milk, and stir over the fire until it
comes to a boil, when add a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of cold water, and
serve. This gruel is excellent for children afflicted with summer complaint.

Or, brown a tablespoonful of flour in the oven or on top of the stove on a
baking-tin; feed a few pinches at a time to a child, and it will often check a
diarrhoea. The tincture of '^ kino "—of which from ten to thirty drops, mixed
with a little sugar and water in a spoon, and given every two or three hours, is
Tery ef&cadous and harmless — can be procured at almost any druggist's.
Tablespoon doses of pure dder vinegar, and a pinch of salt, has cured when all
dsefaOed.

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL.

This recipe may be foimd under the head of " Coflfee, Tea, Beverages." It
win be found an excellent medicine for children teething and summer diseases.

FOR THE SICK. 429

ACID DRINKS.

thirty large

ihem; cover them closely, and let them steep mitil the water is cold.

2. Pour half a pint of boiling water upon one tablespoonful of currant jelly,
and stir until the jelly is dissolved.

8. Cranberries and barberries may be used in the same way to make very
refreshing acid drinks for persons recovering from fevers.

DRAUGHTS FOR THE FEET.

Take a large leaf from the horseradish plant, and cut out the hard fibres that
run through the leaf; place it on a hot shovel for a moment to soften it, fold it,,
and fasten it closely in the hollow of the foot by a cloth bandage.

Burdock-leaves, cabbage-leaves, and mullen-leaves, are used in the same
manner, to alleviate pain and promote perspiration.

GarUcs are also made for draughts by pounding them, placing them on a hot
tin plate for a moment to sweat them, and binding them closely to the hollow
of the foot by a cloth bandage.

Draughts of onions, for infants, are made by roasting onions in hot ashes,
and, when they are quite soft, peeling off the outside, mashing them, and apply-
ing them on a cloth as usual

POULTICES.

A Bread and Milk Poultice. — Put a tablespoonful of the crumbs of stale
bread into a gill of milk, and give the whole one boil up. Or, take stale bread-
crumbs, pour over them boiling water and boil till soft, stirring well; take firom
the fire and gradually stir in a little glycerine or sweet oil, so as to render the
poultice phable when apphed.

A Hop Poultice. — Boil one handful of dried hops in half a pint of water,
until the half pint is reduced to a gill, then stir into it enough Indian meal to
thicken it.

A Mustard Poultice. — Into one gill of boiling water stir one tablespoonful of
Indian meal; spread the paste thus made upon a cloth, and spread over the
paste one teaspoonful of mustard fiour. If you wish a mild poultice, use a tea-
spoonful of mustard as it is prepared for the table, instead of the mustard flour.

Equal parts of ground mustard and flour made into a paste with warm water,
and spread between two pieces of muslin, form the indispensable mustard
plaster.

A Oinger Poultice. — This is made like a mustard poultice, using ground

430 FOR THE SICK.

ginger instead Of mustard. A little vinegar is sometimes added to each of fheee
poultices.

A Stramonium Poultice. — Stir one tablespoonful of Indian meal into a gOl oC
boiling water^ and add one tablespoonful of bruised stramonium seeds.

Wormwood and Arnica are sometimes applied in poultices. Steep the herbs
in lialf a pint of cold water, and when all theur virtue is extracted stir in a litUe
bran or rye-meal to thicken the liquid; the herbs must not be removed from the
liquid.

This is a useful application for sprains and bruises.

Linseed Poultice. — Take four ounces of powdered linseed, and gradual^
sprinkle it into a half pint of hot water.

A REMEDY FOR BOILS.

An excellent remedy for boils is water of a temperature agreeable to the
feelings of the patient. Apply wet linen to the part affected, and frequently
renew or moisten it. It is said to be the most effectual remedy known. Take
inwardly some good blood purifier.

CURE FOR RINGWORMS.

Yellow dock, root or leaves, steeped in vinegar, will cure the worst case of
ringworm*

HOW COLDS ARE CAUGHT.

A great many cannot see why it is they do not take a cold when exposed to
cold winds and rain. The fact is, and ought to be more generally understood,
that nearly every cold is contracted indoors, and is not directly due to the cold
outside, but to the heat inside. A man wfll go to bed at night feeling as well as
usual and get up in the morning with a royal cold. He goes peeking around in
search of cracks and keyholes and tiny drafts. Weather-strips are procured,
and the house made as tight as a fruit can. In a few days more the whole
family has colds.

Let a man go home, tired or exhausted, eat a full supper of starchy and vege-
table food, occupy his mind intently for a while, go to bed in a warm, close
room, and if he doesn't have a cold in the morning it will be a wonder. A drink
of whiskey or a glass or two of beer before supper wiU facilitate matters very
much.

People swallow more colds down their throats than they inhale or receive
from contact with the air, no matter how cold or chilly it may be. Plain, hght
suppers are good to go to bed on, and are far more conducive to refreshing
sleep than a glass of beer or a dose of chloral. La the estimation of a great
many this statement is rank heresy, but in the Hght of science, common sense
and experience it is gospel truth.

Pure air is strictly essential to maintain perfect health. If a person is accus-
tomed to sleeping with the windows open there is but little danger of taking cold
"Winter or sunmier. Persons that shut up the windows to keep out the " night
air '' make a mistake, for at night the only air we breathe is '' night air, " and
we need good air while asleep as much or even more than at any other time of
day. Ventilation can be accomplished by simply opening the window an inch at
the bottom and also at the top, thus letting the pure air in, the bad air going

432 HEALTH^SUGGESTIONS.

outward at the top. dose, foul air poisons the blood, brings on disease which
often results in death; this poisoning of the blood is only prevented by pure air,
which enters the lungs, becomes charged with waste particles, then thrown out,
and which are poisoning if taken back again. It is estimated that a grown
person corrupts (yiie gallon of pure air every minutej or twenty-five barrels full, in
a single night, in breathing alone.

Clothing that has been worn through the day should be changed for fresh
or dry ones to sleep in. Three pints of moisture, filled with the waste of the
body, are given off every twenty-four hours, and this is mostly absorbed by the
clothing. Sunlight and exposure to the air purifies the clothing of the poisons
which nature is trying to dispose of, and which would otherwise be brought
again into contact with the body.

Colds are often taken by extreme cold and heat, and a sudden exposure to
cold bypassing from a heated room to the cold outside air. Old and weak
persons, especially, should avoid such extreme change. In passing from warm
crowded rooms to the cold air, the mouth should be kept closed, and all the
breathing done through the nostrils only, that the cold air may be warmed
before it reaches the limgs, or else the sudden change will drive the blood from
the surface of the internal organs, often producing congestions.

Dr. B. I. Kendall writes that " the temperature of the body should be evenly
and properly maintained to secure perfect health; and to accomplish this purpose
requires great care and caution at times. The human body is, so to speak, the
most delicate and intricate piece of machinery that could possibly be conceived
of, and to keep this in perfect order requires constant care. It is a fixed law of
Nature 'that every violation thereof shall be punished; and so we find that he
who neglects to care for his body by protecting it from sudden changes of
weather, or draughts of cold air upon improtected parts of the body, suffers the
penalty by sickness, which may vary according to the exposure and the habits
of the person, which affect the result materially; for what would be an easy
day's work for a man who is accustomed to hard labor, would be sufficient to
excite the circulation to such an extent in a person unaccustomed to work, that
only slight exposure might cause the death of the latter when over-heated in this
way; while the same exercise and exposure to the man accustomed to hard labor
might not affect him. So, we say, be careful of your bodies, for it is a duty
you owe to yourselves, your friends, and particularly to Him who created you.
When your body is over-heated and you are perspiring, be very careful about
sitting down to ^ cool off, ' as the custom of some is, by removing a part of the
clothing and sitting in a cool place, and perhaps where there is a draught of air

HEALTH-SUGGESTIONS, 433

passing over your body. The proper way to * cool off ' when over -heated is to
put on more clothing, especially if you are in a cool place; but never remove a
I)art of the clothing you have already on. If possible, get near a fire where
there is no wind blowing, and dry of gradually, instead of cooling off suddenly,
which is always dangerous."

Many colds are taken from the feet being damp or wet. To keep these
extremities warm and dry is a great preventative against the almost endless list
of disorders which come from a '' slight cold.'' Many imagine if their feet are
not thoroughly wet, there will be no harm arising from mere dampness, not
knowing that the least dampness is absorbed into the sole, and is attracted nearer
the foot itself by its heat, and thus perspiration is dangerously checked.

WATER.

All beings need drink as much as they need food, and it is just as necessary to
health as pure air; therefore the water should be boiled or filtered before being
drank. Eain- water filtered is probably the best attainable. Boiling the water
destroys the vegetable and animal matter, and leaves the mineral matter deposited
on the bottom of the vessel containing it; therefore it leaves it clear from poison-
ous substances.

REGULATION IN DIET.

The food we eat is a very important item, and one which it would be difficult
to arrange any rule for which would apply to all persons under different cir-
cumstances. In health, it is safer to eat by instinct rather than to follow any
definite rules. While there are many who have a scanty Uving, with a small
variety of food, there is a large number who have an abundance and a large
variety. The former class, in many cases, hve miserable lives, either to hoard
up for miserly purposes the money which might make them happy, or in some
cases through poverty; while the latter class, as a rule, have better health and
have much more enjoyment in this Ufe, unless it be some who are gluttonous,
and make themselves miserable by abusing the blessings they should enjoy.
Avoid extremes in Uving too free or scanty; have a good nourishing diet, and a
sufficient quantity, and it should always be properly cooked; for if the cooking
is poorly done, it affects riot only the nutritious qualities, but is not so easily
digested; thus making food, which is originally the best kind, of very Httle value
to us; and with very poor cooking it is sometimes a positive injury.

It is very important that the food be taken with regularity at the accustomed
time. Be careful not to take too much drink dinring any meal; but, if thirsty,
drink water before meal-time so that you wiU not care for it until some time

434 HEALTH-SUGGESTIONS.

after eatmg, as it is a bad plan to drink much either during or for a little time

after the meal is taken. It is a very bad plan to hurry in eating, because by so

doing the food is not properly masticated; it is better to be a long time in eating

and chew the food welL

—Dr. B. I. KxndaU, Enosburg HUls, VI.

HOW TO USE HOT WATER.

One of the simplest and most effectual means of reUeving pain is by the use
of hot water, externally and internally, the temperature varying according to
the feelings of the patient. For bruises, sprains, and similar accidental hurts, it
should be appUed immediately, as hot as can be borne, by means of a cloth dipped
in the water and laid on the woimded part, or by immersion, if convenient, and
the treatment kept up until reUef is obtained. If applied at once, the use of
hot water will generally prevent, nearly, if not entirely, the bruised flesh from
turning black. For pains resulting from indigestion, and known as wind colic,
etc., a cupful of hot water, taken in sips, will often relieve at once. When that
is insufficient, a flannel folded in several thicknesses, large enough to fully cover
the painful place, should be wrung out of hot water and laid over the seat of the
I)ain. It should be as hot as the skin can bear without injiny, and be renewed
every ten minutes or oftener, if it feels cool, imtil the pain is gone. The
remedy is simple, efficient, harmless, and within the reach of every one; and
should be more generally used than it is. If used along with common sense, it
might save many a doctor's bill, and many a course of drug treatment as welL

GROWING PAINS CURED.

Following in our mother's footsteps, we have been routed night after night
from our warm quarters, in the dead of winter, to kindle fires and fill frosty kettles
from water-pails thickly crusted with ice, that we might get the writhing pedal
extremities of our little heir into a tub of water as quickly as possible. But
lately we have learned that all this work and exposure is needless. We simply
wring a towel from salted water— a bowl of it standing in our sleeping room,
reg^dy for such an emergency — wrap the limb in it from the ankle to knee,
without taking the child from his bed, and then swathe with dry flannels, thick
and warm, tucking the blankets about him a little closer, and relief is sure.

— Chod Hoiiseheeping.
HOW TO KEEP WELL.

Don't sleep in a draught.
Don't go to bed with cold feet.
Don't stand over hot-air registers.

HEALTH^SUGGESTIONS. 435

Don't eat what you do not need, just to save it.

Don't try to get cool too quickly after exercising.

Don't sleep in a room without ventilation of some kind.

Don't stuflf a cold lest you should he next obliged to starve a fever.

Don't sit in a damp or chilly room without a fire.

Don't try to get along without flannel underclothing in winter.

DIPHTHERIA.
A gargle of sulphur and water has been used with much success in cases of
diphtheria. Let the patient swallow a little of the mixture. Or, when you dis-
cover that your throat is a little sore, bind a strip of flannel around the throat,
wet in camphor, and gargle salt and vinegar occasionally.

COLDS AND HOARSENESS.

Borax has proved a most effective remedy in certain forms of colds. In
sudden hoarseness or loss of voice in public speakers or singers, from colds, rehef
for an hour or so may be obtained by slowly dissolving, and partially swallow-
ing, a lump of borax the size of a garden pea, or about three or four grains held
in the mouth for ten or fifteen minutes before speaking or singing. This pro-
duces a profuse secretion of saliva, or " watering " of the mouth and throat, just
as wetting brings back the missing notes to a flute when it is too dry.

A flannel dipped in boiling water, and sprinkled with turpentine, laid on the
chest as quickly as possible, will relieve the most severe cold or hoarseness.

Another simple, pleasant remedy is furnished by beating up the white of one
^gg> adding to it the juice of one lemon, and sweetening with white sugar to
taste. Take a teaspoonful from time to time. It has been known to effectually
cure the ailment.

Or, bake a lemon or sour orange twenty minutes in a moderate oven. When
done, open at one end and take out the inside. Sweeten with sugar or molasses.
This is an excellent remedy for hoarseness.

An old time and good way to relieve a cold is to go to bed, and stay there,
drinking nothing j not even water, for twenty-four hours, and eating as little as
possible. Or, go to bed; put your feet in hot mustard and water; put a bran or
oatmeal poultice on the chest; take ten grains of Dover's powder, and an hour
afterwards a pint of hot gruel; in the morning, rub the body all over with a
coarse towel, and take a dose of aperient medicine.

Violet, pennyroyal, or boneeet tea, is excellent to promote perspiration in
case of sudden chill. Care should be taken next day not to get chilled by
exposure to fresh out-door air.

436 HEALTH'SUGGESTIONS.

MOLASSES POSSET.

This old-fashioned remedy for a cold is as effectual now as it was in old
times. Put into a sauce-pan a pint of the best West India molasses, a teaspoon-
ful of powdered white ginger, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Set it
over the fire, and simmer it slowly for half an hour, stirring it frequently. Do
not let it come to a boil. Then stir in the juice of two lemons, or two table-
spoonfuls of vinegar; cover the pan and let it stand by the fire five minutes
longer. This is good for a cold. Some of it may be taken warm at once, and
the remainder kept at hand for occasional use.

It is the preparation absin^y called by the common people a stefimd gpuxker.

Half a pint of strained honey mixed cold with the juice of a lemon, and a
tablespoonful of sweet oil, is another remedy for a cold: a teaspoonful or two to
be taken whenever the cough is troublesome.

COUGH SYRUP.

Syrup of squills four ounces, syrup of tolu four oimces, tincture of bloodroot
one and one-half ounces, camphorated tincture of opium four ounces. Mix.
Dose for an adult, one teaspoonful repeated every two to tour hours, or as often
as necessary.

LEANNESS

Is caused generally by lack of power in the digestive organs to digest and
assimilate the fat-producing elements of food. First restore digestion, take
plenty of sleep, drink aU the water the stomach will bear in the morning on
rising, take moderate exercise in the open air, eat oatmeal cracked wheat,
Graham mush, baked sweet apples, roasted and broiled beef; cultivate jolly
people, and bathe daily.

FOR TOOTHACHE.

The worst toothache, or neuralgia coming from the teeth, may be speedily
and delightfully ended by the application of a bit of clean cotton, saturated in a
solution of ammonia, to the defective tooth. Sometimes the late sufferer is
prompted to momentary laughter by the application, but the pain will disappear.

j^lum reduced to a powder, a teaspoonful of the powder and an equal quan-
tity of fine salt well mixed, applied to the gums by dipping your moistened finger
in the mixed powder; put some also in the tooth, and keep rubbing the gums
with it; it scarcely ever fails to cure.

HEALTH-SUGGESTIONS. 43 7

TO CURE A STING OF A BEE OR WASP.
Bind on common baMng-soda, dampened with water. Or mix common earth
with water to about the consistency of mud.

TO CURE EARACHE.

Take a bit of cotton batting, put on it a pinch of black pepper^ gather it up
and tie it, dip it in sweet oil, and insert it in the ear; put a flannel bandage over
the head to keep it warm; it often gives immediate rehef .

Tobacco smoke, puffed into the ear, has oftentimes been effectual.

Another remedy: Take equal parts of tincture of opiimi and glycerine. Mix,
and from a warm teaspoon drop two or three drops into the ear, and stop the
ear tight with cotton, and repeat every hour or two. If matter should form in
the ear, make a suds with castile soap and warm water about 100"^ F., or a Uttle
more than milk warm, and have some person iQJect it into the ear while you
hold that side of the head the lowest. If it does not heal in due time, inject a
httle carbohc acid and water in the proportion of one drachm of the acid to one
pint of warm water each time after using the suds.

CROUP.

Croup, it is said, can be cured in one minute, and the remedy is simply alum
and sugar. Take a knife or grater, and shave off in small particles about a tea-
spoonful of alum; then mix it with twice its amount of sugar, to make it palata-
ble, and administer it as quickly as possible. Almost instantaneous rehef wiU
follow. Turpentine is said to be an excellent remedy for croup. Saturate a
piece of flannel, and apply it to the chest and throat, and take inwardly three
or four drops on a lump of sugar.

Another remedy , — Give a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha wine every few minutes,
imtil free vomiting is excited.

Another recipe said to be most reliable: Take two ounces of the wine of
ipecac, hive syrup four ounces, tincture of bloodroot two oimces. Mix it well.

Dose, for a child one year old, five to ten drops; two years, eight to twelve
drops; three years, twelve to fifteen drops; four years old, fifteen to twenty
drops; five years old twenty to twenty-five drops, and older children in propor-
tion to age. Eepeat as often as shall be necessary to procure rehef. If it is
thought best to produce vomiting, repeat the dose every ten or fifteen minutes
for a few doses.

438 HEALTH'SUGGESIIONS.

BURNS AND SCALDS.
A piece of cotton wadding, spread with butter or sweet oil, and bound on the
bum instantly, will draw out the pain without leaving a scar; also a handful of
flour, bound on instantly, will prevent blistering. The object is to entirely exclude
the air from the part affected. Some use common baking-soda, dry or wet,
often giving instant relief, withdrawing the heat and pain. Another valuable
remedy is to beat the yellow of an egg into linseed oil, and apply it with a feather
on the injured part frequently. It will afford ready relief, and heals with great
rapidity. Some reconunend the white part of the ^^, which is very cooling and
soothing, and soon allays the smarting pain. It is the exposure of the part
coming in contact with the air that gives the extreme discomfort experienced
from ordinary afflictions of this kind, and anything which excludes air and pre-
vents inflammation is the thing to be at once appUed.

TO STOP THE FLOW OF BLOOD.

For a slight cut there is nothing better to control the hemorrhage than com-
mon unglazed brown wrapping paper, such as is used by marketmen and giocers;
a piece to be bound over the wound. A handful of flour bound on the cut.
Cobwebs and brown sugar, pressed on like lint. When the blood ceases to flow^
apply arnica or laudanum.

When an artery is cut the red blood spurts out at each pulsation. Press the
thumb firmly over the artery near the wound, and on the side towards the heart.
Press hard enough to stop the bleeding, and wait till a physician comes. The
wounded person is often able to do this himself, if he has the requisite knowledge.

GRAVEL.

Into a pint of water put two oimces of bicarbonate of soda. Take two table-
spoonfuls in the early forenoon, and the same towards night; also drink freely
of water through the day. Inflammation of the kidneys has been successfully
treated with large doses of lime-water.

Persons troubled with kidney difficulties should abstain from sugar and
things that are converted into sugar in digestion, such as starchy food and sweet
vegetables.

SORE THROAT.

Everybody has a cure for this trouble, but simple remedies appear to be most
effectual. Salt and water is used by many as a gargle, but a little alum and
honey dissolved in sage tea is better. An application of cloths wrung out of hot

HEALTH'SUGGESTIONS. 439

water and applied to the neck, changing as often as they begin to cool, has the
most potency for removing inflammation of anything we ever tried. It should
be kept up for a number of hours; during the evening is usually the most con*
venient time for applying this remedy.

Cut sUces of salt pork or fat bacon, simmer a few moments in hot vinegar,
and apply to throat as hot aa possible. When this is taken off, as the throat is
relieved, put around a bandage of soft flannel. A gargle of equal parts of borax
and almn, dissolved in water, is also excellent. To be used frequently.

Camphorated oil is an excellent lotion for sore throat, sore chest, aching
limbs, etc. For a gargle for sore throat, put a pinch of chlorate of potash in a
glass of water. Gargle the throat with it tvnce a day^ or oftener, if necessary.

WHOOPING COUGH.

Two level tablespoonfuls of powdered alum; two-thirds of a cupful of brown
sugar, dissolved in two quarts of water; bottle and put in a dark closet where it
is cool.

For a child one year old, a teaspoonful three times a day on an empty stomach.
For a child two years old, two teaspoonf uls for a dose. For a child five years
old, a tablespoonful. The state of the bowels must be attended to, and the doses
repeated accordingly. No other medicine to be taken, except an emetic, at first,
if desirable. Except in the case of an infant, a milk diet is to be avoided.

DIARRHCEA.

Take tincture of Jamaica ginger one ounce, tincture of rhubarb one oimce,
tinctinre of opium half ounce, tincture of cardamom one and one-half otmces,
tincture of kino one ounce. Mix. Dose for an adult, half to one teaspoonful,
repeated every two to forur hours; and for childre$n one year old, five drops;
two years old, five to ten drops; three years old, ten to twelve drops, and older
children in proportion to age.

FOR CONSTIPATION.

One or two figs eaten fasting is sufficient for some, and they are especially good
in the case of children, as there is no trouble in getting them to take them. A
spoonful of wheaten bran in a glass of water is a simple remedy, and quite
effective, taken half an hour before breakfast; fruit eaten raw; partake largely of
laxative food; exercise in the open air; drink freely of cold water during the day,
etc. It is impossible to give many of the numerous treatments in so short a
space, suffice it to say that the general character of our diet and experience is

440 HEALTH^SUGGESTIONS.

such as to assure us that at least one-quarter of the food that we swallow is
intended by nature to be evacuated from the system; and if it is not, it is again
absorbed into the system, poisoning the blood and producing much suffering and
permanent disease. The evacuation of the bowels daily ^ and above all, regularly,
is therefore all important to add this form of disorder.

RELIEF FROM ASTHMA.

Sufferers from asthma should get a muskrat skin and wear it over their lungs,
with the fur side next to the body. It will bring certain relief.

Or, soak blotting-paper in saltpetre water, then dry, burning at night in
the patient's bedroom.

Another excellent recipe : Take powdered liquorice root, powdered elecampane
root, powdered anise-seed, each one drachm, powdered ipecac ten grains, powder-
ed lobelia ten grains; add sufficient amoimt of tar to form into pills of ordinary
size. Take three or four pills on going to bed at night. An excellent remedy
for asthma or shortness of breath.

RECIPES FOR FELONS.

Take common rock salt, as used for salting down pork or beef, dry in an
oven, then pound it fine and mix with spirits of turpentine in equal parts; put
it in a rag and wrap it around the parts affected; as it gets dry put onmore, and
in twenty-four hours you are cured. The felon will be dead.

Or purchase the herb of stramonium at the druggist's; steep it and bind it
on the felon; as soon as cold, put on new, warm herbs. It will soon kill it, in a
few hours at least.

Or saturate a bit oi grated wild turnip, the size of a oean, with spirits of
turpentine, and apply it to the affected part. It relieves the pain at once; in
twelve hours there will be a hole to the bone, and the felon destroyed; then
apply healing salve, and the finger is weU.

Another way to cure a Felon : Fill a tumbler with equal parts of fine salt and
ice; mix well. Sink the finger in the centre, allow it to remain until it is nearly
frozen and numb; then withdraw it, and when sensation is restored, renew the
operation four or five times, when it will be found the disease is destroyed.
This must be done before pus is formed.

A simple remedy for felons, relieving pain at once, no poulticing, no cutting,
no "holes to the bone," no necessity for healing salve, but simple oil of cedar
applied a few times at the commencement of the felon, and the work is done.

HEALTH'SUGGESTIONS. 441

REMEDY FOR LOCKJAW.

K any person is threatened or taken with lockjaw from injuries of the arms,
legs or feet, do not wait for a doctor, but put the part injured in the following
preparation: Put hot wood-ashes into water as warm as can be borne; if the
injured part cannot be put into water, then wet thick folded cloths in the water
and apply them to the part as soon as possible, at the same time bathe the back-
bone from the neck down with some laxative stimulant — say cayenne pepper
and water, or mustard and water (good vinegar is better than water); it should
be as hot as the patient can bear it. Don't hesitate; go to work and do it, and
don't stop until the jaws will come open. No person need die of lockjaw if these
directions are followed.

Cure, for LockjaWj said to be positive. — Let any one who has an attack of
lockjaw take a small quantity of spirits of turpentine, warm it, and pour it in
the wound — no matter where the wound is or what its nature is — ^and reUef will
follow in less than one minute. Turpentine is also a sovereign remedy for croup.
Saturate a piece of flannel with it, and place the flannel on the throat and chest
— and in very severe cases, three to five drops on a lump of sugar may be taken,
internally.

BLEEDING AT THE NOSE.

Roll up a piece of paper and press it under the upper hp. In obstinate cases,
blow a little gum arabic up the nostril through a quill, which will immediately
stop the discharge; powdered alimi, dissolved in water, is also good. Pressing
by the finger over the small artery near the ala (wing) of the nose, on the side
where the blood is flowing, is said to arrest the hemorrhage immediately. Some-
times by wringing a cloth out of very hot water, and laying it on the back of
the neck, gives rehef . Napkins wrung out of cold water must be laid across the-
forehead and nose, the hands dipped in cold water, and a bottle of hot water
apphed to the feet.

TO TAKE CINDERS FROM THE EYE-

In most cases a simple and effective cure may be found in one or two grains
of flax-seed, which can be placed in the eye without pain or injrny. As they
dissolve, a glutinous substance is formed, which envelops any foreign body that
may be under the lid, and the whole is easily washed out. A dozen of these
seeds should constitute a part of every traveller's outfit.

Another remedy for removing objects from the eye: Take a horsehair and
double it, leaving a loop. If the object can be seen, lay the loop over it, close :

442 HEALTH-SUGGESTIONS.

the eye, and the mote will come out as the hair is withdrawn. If the irritating
object cannot be seen, raise the hd of the eye as high as possible and place the
loop as far as you can, close the eye and roll the ball around a few times, draw
out the hair, and the substance which caused the pain will be sure to come with
it. This method is practiced by axemakers and other workers in steel

— MofdrwA Star.

EYE-WASHES.

The best eye-wash for granulated hds and inflammation of the eyes is com-
posed of camphor, borax and morphine, in the following proportions: To a large
wine-glass of camphor water— not spirits — ^add two grains of morphine and six
grains of borax. Pour a few drops into the palm of the hand, and hold the eye
in it, opening the lid as much as possible. Do this three or four times in
twenty-four hours, and you will receive great relief from pain and smarting
soreness. This recipe was received from a celebrated oculist, and has never
failed to relieve the most inflamed eyes.

Another remedy said to be reliable: A limip of alum as large as a cranberry
boiled in a teacupful of sweet milk, and the curd used as a poultice, is excellent
for inflammation of the eyes.

Another wash : A centos worth of pure, refined white copperas, dissolved in
a pint of water, is also a good lotion; but label it poisouy as it should never
go near the mouth. Bathe the eyes with the mixture, either with the hands or
a small piece of linen doth, allowing some of the liquid to get under the lids.

Here is another from an eminent oculist : Take half an ounce of rock salt and
one ounce of dry sulphate of zinc ; simmer in a dean, covered porcelain vessel
with three pints of water until all are dissolved; strain through thick muslin;
add one ounce of rose-water; bottle and cork it tight. To use it, mix one tea-
spoonful of rain-water with one of the eye- water, and bathe the eyes frequent-
ly. If it smarts too much, add more water.

SUNSTROKE.

Wrap a wet cloth bandage over the head; wet another cloth, folded small,
square, cover it thickly with salt, and bind it on to the back of the neck; apply
dry salt behind the ears. Put mustard plasters to the calves of the logs and
soles of the feet. This is an effectual remedy.

TO REMOVE WARTS.

Wash with water saturated with common washing-soda, and let it dry with-
out wiping; repeat frequently until they disappear. Or pass a pin through the

HEALTH-SUGGESTIONS. 443

wart and hold one end of it over the flame of a candle or lamp until the wart
fires by the heat, and it will disappear.

Another treatment of warts is to pare the hard and dry skin from their tops,
and then touch them with the smallest drop of strong acetic acid, taking care
that the acid does not run off the wart upon the neighboring skin; for if it does,
it will occasion inflammation and much pam. If this is continued once or twice
daily, with regularity, paring the surface of the wart occasionally when it gets
hard and dry, the wart will be soon effectually cured.

SWAIM'S VERMIFUGE.

Worm seed, two ounces; valerian, rhubarb, pink root, white agaric, senna,
of each one ounce and a half. Boil in suflicient water to yield three quarts of
decoction. Now add to it ten drops of the oil of tansy and forty-five drops of
the oil of cloves, dissolved in a quart of rectified spirit. Dose: one tablespoonful
at night.

FAINTING. (Syncope.)

Immediately place the person fainting in a lying position, with head lower
than body. In this way consciousness returns immediately, while in the erect
position it often ends in death.

FOR SEVERE SPRAINS.

The white of an egg, a tablespoonful of vinegar and a tablespoonful of spirits
of turpentine. Mix in a bottle, shake thoroughly, and bathe the sprain as soon
as possible after the accident. This was published in Life SecretSy but it is
republished by request on account of its great value. It should be remembered
by every one.

An invaluable remedy for a sprain or bruise is wormwood boiled in vinegar
and appUed hot, with enough cloths wrapped around it to keep the sprain moist.

CAMPHORATED OIL.

Best oil of Lucca; gum camphor. Pound some gum camphor and fiU a wide-
necked pint bottle one-third full; fill up with oUve oil, and set away until the
camphor is absorbed. Excellent lotion for sore chest, sore throat, aching limbs,
etc.

LINIMENT FOR CHILBLAINS.

Spirits of turpentine, three drachms; camphorated oil, nine drachms.

Mix for a hniment. For an adult four drachms of the former and eight of
the latter may be used. If the child be young, or if the skin be tender, the
camphorated oil may be used without the turpentine.

444 HEALTH^SUGGESTIONS.

"THE SUN'S" CHOLERA MIXTURE.

More than f orfcy years ago, when it was found that prevention for the Asiatic
cholera was easier than cure, the learned doctors of both hemispheres drew up
a prescription, which was published (for working people) in 2%6 New York Sun^
and took the name of ^^ Th^ Sun Cholera Mixture.^^ It is found to be the best
remedy for looseness of the bowels ever yet devised. It is to be commended for
several reasons. It is not to be mixed with liquor, and t];ieref ore will not be use<)
as an alcoholic beverage. Its ingredients are well known among all the commoi^
people, and it will have no prejudice to combat; each of the materials is in equal
proportions to the others, and it may therefore be compounded without pra
fessional skill; and as the dose is so very small, it may be carried in a tiny phial
in the waistcoat pocket, and be always at hand. It is:

Take equal parts of tincture of cayenne, tincture of opitmi, tincture of rhu-
barb, essence of peppermint, and spirits of camphor. Mix weH Dose fifte^
to thirty drops in a wine-glass of water, according to age and violence of the
attack. Bepeat every fifteen or twenty minutes until relief is obtained. No one
who takes it in time will ever have the cholera. Even when no cholera is antici-
pated, it is a valuable remedy for ordinary sununer complaints, and should
always be kept in readiness.

COMR CATHARTIC ELIXIR.

The only pleasant and reliable cathartic in liquid form that can be prescribed.

Each fluid ounce contains: sulpb. magnesia one dr., senna two drs., scam^
mony six grs., liquorice one dr., ginger three grs., coriander, fivegrs., withflavor*
ing ingredients.

Dose. — Child five years old, one or two teaspoonfuls; adult, one or two table^
spoonfuls.

This preparation is being used extensively throughout the country. It was
originated with the design of furnishing a liquid cathartic remedy that could be
prescribed in a palatable form. It will be taken by children with a relish.

GRANDMOTHER'S COUGH SYRUP.

Take half a pound of dry hoarhound herbs, one pod of red pepper, four table-
spoonfuls of ginger, boil all in three quarts of water, then strain; and add odb
teaspoonful of good, fresh tar and a pound of sugar. Boil slowly and stir often,
until it is reduced to one quart of syrup. When cool, bottle for use. Take one
or two teaspoonfuls four or six times a day.

HEALTH-SUGGESTIONS. 445

GRANDMOTHER'S UNIVERSAL LINIMENT.

One pint of alcohol, and as much camphor gmn as can be dissolved in it, half
an ounce of the oil of cedar, one-half oimce of the oil of sassafras, aqua ammo-
nia, half an ounce, and the same amount of the tincture of morphine. Shake
well together, and apply by the fire; the liniment must not be heated, or come
in contact with the fire, but the rubbing to be done by the warmth of the fire.

These recipes of Grandmother's are all old, tried medicines, and are more
effectual than most of those that are advertised, as they have been thoroughly
tried, and proved reliable.

GRANDMOTHER'S FAMILY SPRING BITTERS.

Mandrake root, one ounce; dandelion root, one ounce; burdock root, one
ounce; yellow dock root, one ounce; prickly ash berries, two ounces; marsh mal-
low, one ounce; turkey rhubarb, half an ounce; gentian, one ounce; English
camomile flowers, one ounce; red clover tops, two ounces.

Wash the herbs and roots; put them into an earthen vessel, pour over two
quarts of water that has been boiled and cooled; let it stand over night and soak;
in the morning, set it on the back of the stove, and steep it five hours; it must
not boil, but nearly ready to boil. Strain it through a cloth, and add half a pint
of good gin. Keep it in a cool place. Half a wine-glass taken as a dose twice
a day.

This is better than all the patent blood-medicines that are in the market— a
superior blood purifier, and will cure almost any malignant sore, by taking
according to direction, and washing the sore with a strong tea of red raspberry
leaves steeped, first washing the sore with castile soap, then drying with a soft
cloth, and washing it with the strong tea of red raspberry leaves.

GRANDMOTHER'S EYE-WASH.

Take three fresh eggs, and break them into one quart of clear, cold rain-
water; stir until thoroughly mixed; bring to a boil on a slow fire, stirring often;
then add half an ounce of sulphate of zinc (white vitriol); continue the boiling
for two minutes, then set it off the fire. Take the curd that settles at the
bottom of this and apply to the eye at night with a bandage. It wiU speedily
draw out all fever and soreness. Strain the liquid through a cloth and use for
bathing the eyes occasionally. This is the best eye- water ever made for man
or beast. I have used it for twenty years without knowing it to fail.

446 HEALTH'SUGGESTIONS.

HUNTER'S PILLS.

These pills can be manufactured at homey and are trviy reliable^ having been
sold and used for more than fifty years in Europe. The ingredients may be pro-
cured at almost any druggist's. The articles should be all in the powder. Saffron^
one grain; rue, one grain; Scot aloes, two grains; savin one grain; cayenne
pepper, one grain : Mix all into a very thick mass by adding sufficient syrup.
Bub some fine starch on the surface of a platter or large dinner-plate, then with
your forefinger and thumb nip off a small piece of the mass the size of a pill and
roll it in pill form, first dipping your fingers in the starch. Place them as fast
as made on the platter, set where they will dry slowly. Put them into a dry
bottle or paper box. Dose, one every night and morning as long as occasion
requires.

This recipe is worth ten times the price of this book to any female requiring
the need of these regulating pills.

HINTS IN REGARD TO HEALTH.

It is plainly seen by an inquiring mind that, aside from the selection and
preparation of food, ther^ are many little things constantly arising in the experi-
ence of every-day life which, in their combined effect, are powerful agents in
the formation (or prevention) of perfect health. A careful observance of these
little occurrences, an inquiry into the philosophy attending them, lies within the
province, and indeed should be considered among the highest duties, of every
housekeeper.

That one should be cautious about entering a sick room in a state of perspira-
tion, as the moment you become cool your pores absorb. Do not approach con-
tagious diseases with an empty stomach, nor sit between the sick and the fire,
because the heat attracts the vapor.

That the fiavor of cod-liver oil may be changed to the delightful one of fresh
oyster, if the patient will drink a large glass of water poured from a vessel in
which nails have been allowed to rust.

That a bag of hot sand relieves neuralgia.

That warm borax water will remove dandruff.

That salt should be eaten with nuts to aid digestion.

That it rests you, in sewing, to change your position frequently.

Tha