Wild Life Among the Pacific Islanders

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WILD LIFE

AMONG

THE PACIFIC ISLANDEKS.

1 ... To bant all links of habit— there to wander far away,
On from island unto island at the gateways of the day."

Tbnktsoit.

yn

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-^7u

THE PACIFIC ISLANDERS.

E. H. LAMONT, ESQ.

LONDON :
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,

SUCCESSOKS TO HENRY COLBUBN,

18, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1867.

Tk* right of Truncation is reterveti.

VIA

PREFACE.

The following narrative is compiled from rough notes of a
Journal written during my wanderings in the Islands of the
South Pacific. My object in publishing the work is to
depict, with the simplicity of truth, scenes and events that
exemplify the leading features of life among that peculiar
race whose lot is cast on these coral-bound shores. A
European who dwells among 6avage tribes is often com-
pelled, by the" circumstances in which he is placed, to " as-
sume a greatness, if he has it not ;" and the narrative of my
personal adventures may seem, on this account, somewhat
egotistical. If so, I must beg the reader to excuse a fault
which any one writing the experiences of a life similar to
mine in these islands must find, to some extent at least,
almost unavoidable.

E. H. L.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER L

Proposed Trading Voyage to the Islands of the Pacific — Dr. R
— The Brig Chatham — The Talca — Commencement of the
Voyage — Ship's Company — Sea Yarns — Schools of Porpoises —
Land sighted — The Marquesas — Dominica — Oatin — Scenery of
the Islands — First Appearance of a Native — Resolution Bay —
Nukaheva — Typee Bay — The Pilot and his Crew — Tattooing —
Bay of Anna Maria — The Fort, Governor's House, and Govern-
ment Buildings— Interview with the Governor — The Commissary
and his Department — A Small Trading Transaction — Visit to
the Padre— -Visit to the Pilot's House— The King's House-
Its Structure and Internal Arrangements — A French Incentive
to Conversion — A Nymph bathing— Peculiar Mode of Saluta-
tion — A Generous Oner — Engagement of an Interpreter

pp. 1—20

CHAPTER II.

Bay of Hana-ti-Tapa— A King and his Courtiers — Visit of
the Queen — Her Costume and Adornments — " Me Tapa " —
Anointing Oil — An Attempt at Conversation — A Proposal
of Marriage — Hana-ti-Kona — Native Battles — Bay of Hana-
pae-Oa — Shanaka, Motona, and Na Ahe — Stoical Indifference
—The Waihenes at Hana-ou-Pi — Entertained by the King
—A Night with the King of Eka Noa— A Native Mode of

VI CONTENTS.

Smoking — An Excellent Repast — Marqnesan Politeness — The
Loan of a Wife — Sail along the Coast — Bay of Ta Ana — Vain
Attempt to reach the Ship— Settlement on Resolution Bay —
A travelled Marqnesan Chief— A Brother Mason recognised by
Dr. R.— Bansom of a -White Man— A Three Days' Battle—
Rival Chiefs — Natives of Oto Hana — Journey — An Irishman in
the Marquesas— Visited in Sickness by a Wise Woman — Vai Mate
— Beception on onr Return to Hana-ma-Nu — Unfortunate
Difference with the Natives pp. 21 — 46

CHAPTER IH,

Island of Roahuga — Annoying Incident — Position of the Island of
Tibrones — The Dangerous or Low Archipelago— Dean's Island
— Coral Reefs and Lagoons — Tahiti — The Reefs and Lagoons
around the Island — Discovery of Tahiti — Missionary Operations
— Mr. Pritchard — The French Protectorate — Town and Har-
bour of Papeete— French Institutions — Houses of Europeans and
Natives — Native Costumes — The Promenade— Tattoo — Visit to
Queen Pomare — Pomare Tanie, the King Consort — Population
of Tahiti — Productions of the Island — Departure from Tahiti
— The Society and Georgian Islands — Huahine — Unsuccessful
Attempt of the French to seize the Island — The Settlement —
Contention between my Boatmen — Night in a Native Hut —
The Captain's Party on Board — Family of a Native Teacher —
Commotion in the Island pp. 47 — 71

CHAPTER IV.

The Harvey Islands— Rorotonga — Mangaia— MankS, or Parry's
Island — The Population and their Sufferings — Tomano Wood
— Suspicions of the Captain— Night Fishing — Native Police at
Mangaia — Mr. Gill the Missionary— Appearance of the Island
—Its Trade — Trees and Fruit — Discovery of Mangaia — Davida

CONTENTS. Vli

— Troubles of the Missionaries — A Premature Step— Position
of Missionaries in the South Sea Islands — Mr. Gill's Departure
from Mangaia — Cultivation of the Taro — Surprised while
Bathing — Charged with Misdemeanour — Evening Patrol — Re-
turn to Manke — The Manke People— An Adventure of the
Captain's — Purchase of a Canoe — Mitiaro— Atien — King's and
Missionary's Law — Freaks of the Captain — A Hospitable Lady
—Harvey Island — Productions of the Island — Aitutakd — Mis-
sionary Influence — Markets — Native Houses and Orange Groves
—A Stray Waif pp. 72—102

CHAPTER V,

Departure for California— A Kanaka's Interpretation of a Meteor —
Wreck of the Ship— Appearance of Natives — Their Attack re-
pelled — Mahauta sent ashore — Onset of Savages — Our Landing
on the Island — Costume— Native Huts — An Imp surprised —
Insubordination — My Home on the Island — Breaking Cocoa
Nuts — Attempt at Conversation — A Native Supper — Night
Wail — March resumed — A Mara, or Sacred Ground — Curious
Ceremonies — Terror of the Captain — Dance of Females — Mourn-
ful Dirges — Ceremony of Adoption — Sararak — Divisions of the
Island — A Native Plenipotentiary — Blunders made in acquiring
the Language — Novel Appropriation of English Costume — As-
sembly of our Officers and Crew — A Family Group— Alarm of
Invasion — Becovery of my Sword — Ceremony of the Pehu —
Numerous Relations — Etiquette for Relations — My Gratifying
Progress in the Language pp. 103 — 138

CHAPTER VI.

Recovery of Valuable Instruments — Construction of a Boat — The
Doctor and his Party — Search for Nails — Native Pilfering —

• ••

Vin CONTENTS.

Mahauta Nad— The Great Chief— Native Dances— Discovery
of another Sister— Threatened Attack of the Tepukans— Night
Attack repulsed — Ideas of the Natives — Timher on the Island
— Construction of Native Canoes — Varieties of the Cocoa-nut —
Orora — The Uto— Construction of Huts and Manufacture of
Arms — Preparation of Food— Supper— Expedition in Search of
Cocoa-nuts — Native Legend of their Origin — Land Crabs —
Further Progress in the Language — A Family Island — Curious
Custom — Commotion excited by the Doctor — Another Dis-
turbance — Don Juan — Annoying Conduct of the Captain — Old
Monitu — Journey to Matunga — A New Proposal of Adoption
— Molly Bawn— Meeting with " my Aunt " . pp. 139 — 171

CHAPTER VII.

Harbour of Omuka — Troublesome Hospitality — Prevalence of Dis-
gusting Sores — Pikoche — Bathing — Cure of Chera Puna — Stroll
over the Island — Insolence of a Powerful Chief resented — De-
parture for Matunga — Kind Beception in Mangerongaro —
Taharua — Kakara — Excellent Fish— Turua— Ceremony of the
Mara — Native Idols — The To Tree — Superstitious Observance
— Sacrifice of a Turtle — Created an " Iriki "— Ocura— Enter-
tained by Turua — His House — Opposition to my Departure
from the Island — Pursued by the Natives — Attempts to escape
— Offer of a Canoe — My Departure — Etiquette of Reception —
Consecration of my House — Completion of our Boat — Success-
ful Launch — Preparations for the Departure of our Comrades —
Call at Tokerau— Accident to the Boat— A Flattering Offer —
The Boat once more off — Unaccountable Course taken by it —
Pleasant Sail along the Coast — Return of the Boat — Renewed
Trouble with the Captain — Tokarora — Proceedings of the Doc-
tor — Recovery of the Greater Part of the Works of Shakspeare
— An Invitation — Biche de Mer — Storm on a Journey.

pp. 172—206

CONTENTS- IX

CHAPTER VIII.

Our Reception in the Omuka Territory — Curious Manner of Dis-
posing of the Dead — Ceremonies and Superstitions relating to
the Departed — Costume worn for Mourning — Orora — Visit to
"Relations " — Coquetry — Games of the Polynesians — A Wife
■et apart for me — Strange Conduct of the Natives — Encounter
with some of them — Visit to "Grandpapa" — Manner of catching
Plying Fish — The Mararo— Sight of a Vessel in the Distance
— Disappointment — Pearl Fishing — Pearl Islands — Operations
of the Divers — Value of the Oyster Shells — A Misadven-
ture of the Captain's — Arrangements for our Departure— Pro-
posed Visit to Tepuka — An Attempt to escape temporarily
baffled — Opaka's Generosity — Refusal of my Guide to proceed
— Renewed Attempts to detain me— Difficult Journey — Ma-
hauta Nud — Hostility of a Priest— Tepuka Pashues — The Great
Mara— Ancient Tombs— A Great Curiosity . pp. 207 — 237

CHAPTER IX.

Mahauta's Resistance to my Departure — A Great Man insulted —
Inhospitable Natives — Sufferings from my Feet — Mahauta's
Children — Penrhyn Canoe under Sail — Return to Haka Shusha
— Unaccountable Departure of the Doctor — My Hopeless Situa-
tion — Designs attributed to the Captain — Great Attention
shown to us by the Matungans — Franke's Determination to
marry — Stay in Sararak — The Captain's Boat "tabooed" —
Angry Discussion — Caught in an attempt to remove the Boat
—Visit of " Old Monitu"— Artifice to recover the Doctor's
Dagger — A Difference proposed for Arbitration — Acquisition of
a Pistol and Powder — Manufacture of Lead Balls — Renewed
Disturbance about the Boat — An Act of Perfidy — An Unex-
pected Visitor — Haka Mod Kakara — Habits of the Native
Women — Visit to Matunga — Importance attributed to the
Married State — Curious and Irritating Scene — Numerous Visi-
tors—A Messenger from Matunga — Absurd Apprehensions pro-

CONTENTS.

dnced by the Flying of a Kite— Native Quarrels — An Alarm —
A Friendly Visit — A Stratagem of Turua's — Violent Epidemic
— Illness and Recovery of Chera Pan a — Animosity excited
against us— Speech of an Old Chief-^My Reply pp. 238—267

CHAPTER X.

My return to Matunga — Abject Superstition — Religious Cere-
monies — Visit to Omuka — A Novel Remedy for the Prevalent
Epidemic— Requested to visit Mahauta Nue — Illness of Opaka
—Landing of that once dreaded Chief in Omuka — Great Ex-
citement — Ravages of the Epidemic in Mangerongarc— A
* Fono," or Council — Induced to wear a Peculiar Badge — Con-
ciliatory Address — Death of Opaka — Performance of Sacred
Rites at the Mara — Attempt to recover my Sword — Appoint-
ment of an Iriki — Departure for Haka Shusha — Reception by
the Tepukans — Diving for the Pashu — Visit to Ocura — Ex-
pression of Violent Grief — Island of Taimata — Inhospitable
Reception — Lovely Scene— Haka Puta — Another Mahanta
Nue— A Blighted Tract— The Tautuans— Curious Fish— Visit
to Haka Puta's Mother — Descent of the Natives of Sararak —
Stripping the Cocoa-nut Trees — Regarded with Suspicion by
the Tautuans — An Intruder — Invasion of the Matungans —
Conference — The Matungans persuaded to retire— Extensive
Shoal— Compelled to take a Third Wife . . . pp. 268— 298

CHAPTER XI.

Plan of a white Kingdom — Proposed Departure— Matrimonial
Disturbance — Ruchd Fishing — Departure — Reception at Ma-
tunga — A Shakspeare Lesson — Haka Puta's Amusements-
Disagreeable Habits of the Natives — Rayheys — Fishing Expedi-
tion— Chera Puna — Presents* Curtain Lecture — Scarcity of
Cocoa-nuts — Departure from Matunga — Farewell to the Noble
Turua— Passage through the Mutagohiche Territory — Affairs

CONTENTS. XI

of the Islands — The People, their Jealousies and Ware — Mis-
adventure to Haka Futa — Arrival in Sararak — Important
Council — Theatrical Representation of our Shipwreck — The
White Feather shown by Franks — A Tranquil Life in Mange-
rongaro — Unwelcome Visit of the Tepukans — Great Festivities
— The Mukatea — My Mission to the Tepukans — Factious Pro-
ceedings amongst ourselves — Quarrel between Turua and Ocura
— False Alarm — Danger of Wooing for another — Jealousy.

pp. 299—880

CHAPTER XII.

The Beacon Fire — Appearance of the Tepukans — Hostility of the
Tepukans — Measures taken to guard against it — My Mission to
Tqpuka — Halt at Tautua — Proposed Castle — Head-quarters at
Matunga — On the Look-out for a Ship — A Sail in Sight — Re-
fusal of the Natives to assist me — Reported Escape of other
White Men — Disappointment of my Hopes — A Stormy Night
— Formation of a Canoe — Miserable Tools— Involved in Native
Quarrels — Joe's Malicious Proceedings — Defeat of the Tepukans
— Completion and Launch of my Canoe — Her First Day at
Sea — Appearance of a Ship— Determination at all hazards to
effect my Escape — Exciting Adventure on board the John
Appleton of New Bedford — My Appearance — The Vessel at-
tacked by the Matungans— Grief of the Natives at my Depar-
ture — Curious Taste of my two Native Followers — Aticu —
Patriotism — The Cone of Rorotonga — The Central Missionary
Station— Conclusion pp. 881—859

ILLUSTRATIONS.

the rival chiefs frontispiece

PORTRAIT 0? THE AUTHOR ........ ViffnetU

PAPEETE, CAPITAL Of TAHITI TofacepaffC 59

A MARA 121

NATIVES FISHING 217

HAXA MO* KAKARA 257

INVASION Of TAOTUA 293

A PRHTJ 803

CHAPTER I.

Proposed Trading Voyage to the Islands of the Pacific — Dr. R -

— The Brig Chatham — The Talca — Commencement of the
Voyage — Ship's Company — Sea Yarns — Schools of Porpoises —
Land sighted — The Marquesas — Dominica — Oatin— Scenery of
the Islands — First Appearance of a Native— Resolution Bay —
Nukaheva — Typee Bay — The Pilot and his Crew — Tattooing —
Bay of Anna Maria — The Port, Governor's House, and Govern-
ment Buildings— Interview with the Governor — The Commissary
and his Department — A Small Trading Transaction — Visit to
the Padre— Visit to the Pilot's House— The King's House-
Its Structure and Internal Arrangements — A French Incentive
to Conversion — A Nymph bathing — Peculiar Mode of Saluta-
tion — A Generous Offer — Engagement of an Interpreter.

DURING the winter months little business is done in
California, especially in the up-country trade, in which
I had been chiefly occupied. When the fall of the year,
therefore, approached (a period at which further ventures
were unsafe), I arranged with my partner to make a trading
voyage through some of the islands of the South Pacific,
which, we estimated, would occupy not more than four
months, permitting my return in time for the spring trade.

Some time previous to this concerted voyage, I had met
in San Francisco a gentleman who professed an intimate

knowledge of the islands. Dr. R (I need not give the

name by which he was introduced to me) proposed to partici-
pate in our expedition ; and, from his presumed knowledge of
the island trade, I most gladly availed myself of his services.

The Chatham, purchased by L», H., and Co. for the

B

2 OUR SHIP AND CAPTAIN.

voyage, was a good, substantial, though not fast -sailing
clipper brig, of some three hundred tons burden, under the
American flag ; and, as neither my partner nor myself was an
American citizen, we could not, of course, hold the ship in our
own names. During my absence in the country, where
I went to arrange some business matters before my depar-
ture, H. placed the vessel in the name of the captain — an
act so grossly misjudged that, had time permitted, I should
have had it cancelled before proceeding to sea. The captain,
however, wl\pm he had known for some time, was a favourite of
his ; and, he assumed me, he had the most perfect confidence
in his integrity. Accordingly, on Sunday, the 14th October,
I proceeded towards the vessel, with my partner, the doctor,
and some friends, about one o'clock, the hour appointed for
our departure, but on approaching it, was surprised to find
the sails furled, and no appearance of sailing visible. My
surprise, of course, was increased when, on boarding the brig, I
discovered that the captain had not yet arrived. After wait-
ing some time, however, he made his appearance, but in such
a state of drunkenness that it was impossible for him to pro-
ceed to sea. We persuaded him to turn into his cabin, and
H., who was of a nervous disposition, was so alarmed
that he proposed to supersede him in the command ; but
as sailors generally are known to be fond of a parting
cup, I saw no reason for supposing that, though on the pre-
sent occasion he had forgotten himself, he might not be well
conducted at sea. Aware, too, of the position in which we
had placed him as owner, I felt that if he were so disposed
he could give us much annoyance in case we turned him
ashore again.

In the evening the captain was sufficiently recovered to
take the command. The anchor was raised, the sails were
loosened and spread out before a light breeze, and we

COMMENCEMENT OF THE VOYAGE. 3

began to thread our way amongst the maze of shipping that
in those days lay in the stream. The current was running
with the usual force of the ebb tides in this bay, and we
managed to run foul of two vessels, an accident by which
part of our bulwarks and our taffrail were carried away. We
finally, however, brought up alongside a large lighter, the
remains, as we soon discovered, of the brig Talca, of Val-
paraiso, which had arrived here some four years before, and,
like many a better vessel, being unable to meet the expenses
attending its refitment for sea, had been for a length of time
used as a store-ship, and finally reduced to its present de-
graded state. We moored ourselves to this craft, with the
intention of lying there for that night, and making sail
with the slack tide of next day's dawn.

I spent a sleepless night at our moorings. The old Talca,
as if indignant at the service to which, in her reduced con-
dition, we had applied her, kept bumping against us all night.
With the first streak of day we cast off from the old hulk,
the fresh morning breeze filling our sails as we wound our
way out through the shipping, and danced gaily over the
rippled waters of the bay. Beating against a head wind, we
passed from Yerba Buena to Contra Costa, back to North
Beach, with its tents and shanties, and again over to " Los
Angelos," now tacking at the yellow sand bluffs, and then
under the bold cliffs of the Saucelita shores. Finally passing
the Golden Gates, we found ourselves on the rolling waves
of the great Pacific. Outside the breeze had increased, and
we were enabled, close-hauled, to stand on our course, with
just sea enough to sprinkle our decks with white foam as the
waves were dashed aside by the gallant vessel in her onward
career.

Our ship's company consisted of the captain, one George
Snow, a native of Nantucket, and of course an old whaler — a

b 2

4 OUR CREW.

short, stout little fellow, more like a Dutchman than a
Yankee, except for the cut of his beard. The mate also was a
stout, jolly-looking, red-faced, old Nantucket whaler, with a
nose compared with which Oliver Cromwell's would have
looked pale. The second mate proved to be the captain's
brother, though no one, judging by appearance, would ever
have accused him of such a relationship. His frame was
lank and loose, and his crane-like neck supported a most
cadaverous-looking figure-head, that would have scared crows
from any corn-field. He seldom spoke, and rarely, if
ever, laughed. Both I and the doctor tried to bring him
out, but our efforts were unsuccessful. His appetite was
insatiable. His long under- jaw, projecting forward, ap-
peared to be at all times literally " seeking what it might
devour/ 1 Though he came from the anti-liquor state of
Maine, he consumed an immense quantity of strong drink.
He had tried carpentering in California ; but finding it, as
I understood, too hard work, he had been shipped by the
captain as second officer, though it was his first voyage as a
seaman. The men, of course, laughed at him.

Juan, our cook, was a young, handsome, black-eyed Chilano.
Though he had acknowledged his incapacity for such an
office, the captain had persuaded him to join his ship (probably
in a drunken fit), assuring him that what he did not know
he would himself teach him. A bad cook Juan certainly
was, but a very good man, as he afterwards proved.

Before the mast we had Bill, an old British man-o'- war's
man ; Joe, a Portuguese, trying to pass for a Spaniard ; John
and Mowry, two Huahaine Kanakas. Wages being very high,
60$ per month for seamen, we sailed as light-handed as
possible, at least as far as the islands, to which there is gene-
rally a fair run, and where men may be had for 10$ or 12$
per month.

For some days we had a fair wind that carried us to the

CAPTURE OF PORPOISES. 5

rerge of the tropics, and as we expected to meet the N.E.
trade winds there, we had every prospect of making a speedy
voyage. " Blessed, however, are they that expect little !"
At this season of the year the winds are very variable.
Instead of N.E., we had them from the S.W. dead ahead ;
and so little were we blessed in this voyage with favouring
gales, that upwards of a month had passed before we neared
the Marquesas.

During all the time there were few incidents of importance
to relieve its monotony. When the wind was tolerably fair
the captain entertained us with astonishing tales of whaling
adventures, to which I was always a most attentive listener.
Being no sailor, and consequently very " green," the more I
seemed to wonder at the improbable tales told me, the more
extraordinary they became. The mate, too, indulged in
the repetition of some old " sea yarns," and his jolly face
laughed over with delight when he found any one disposed to
credit stories which the greatest greenhorn in a whale-ship
would have pronounced " gammon."

We were occasionally amused by the capture of a porpoise.
The captain and mate were always greatly excited by the
approach of these denizens of the deep ; even at night the
shout of " Porpoises, porpoises 1" being enough to rouse
them from their beds. The capture of one of these crea-
tures is always an exciting scene. Whenever they sight a
ship they come on towards it, dashing over the waves like
so many race-horses trying to outvie each other in their
rapid course, snorting and puffing the water in jets above
them, and indulging in a variety of graceful movements.
They generally appeared in schools of from six to a dozen, or
more, and gamboled round the bow of the ship, crossing
and re- crossing it with the greatest ease when we were sail-
ing at the rate of ten knots an hour. Rapid, however, as
are their evolutions, they present an easy mark to the har-

6 THE LOOK-OUT.

pooner, who stands beneath the bowsprit, beside the martin-
gale. As the great fish glides beneath, the heavy harpoon
is plnnged into his back, and a line fastened to it being reeved
through a block aloft, whence it passes to the deck, where
several hands are ready at the word to ran aft with it, the
unfortunate porpoise is whipped up out of his native element
before he can extricate himself from the barbed iron which
has entered deeply into his flesh. If he is not quickly hoisted
aloft, he not unfrequently succeeds in effecting his escape,
his strength in the water being prodigious. When one por-
poise is struck, whether captured or not, the rest of the
school almost invariably leave the ship.

Safely on deck, the head is cut off, and the fish properly
cleaned. The blubber, about an inch thick, between the skin
and the flesh, is then carefully taken off in strips, and when
preserved for " drying out/' will produce a gallon or so of ex-
cellent oil. The flesh from the back is also cut in strips, and,
after being hung up in the rigging for a day or two, is ready
for use. It is then either made into what sailors well know as
" porpoise balls " — a kind of forcemeat — or is cut into thin
steaks, which, in taste as well as in appearance, are like very
old, hard bull-meat. On a long voyage, however, the porpoise
is a capital substitute for fresh beef; and, to those who are
fond of it, the liver is quite as good as that of a hog, which it
somewhat resembles. After the death of a porpoise, fried
porpoise balls invariably accompany every meal for two or
three days.

After we had been well-nigh a month at sea, a good look-
out was ordered during the nighty as we were supposed to be
so near land that we might arrive at it before morning. By
daylight a man was sent aloft, and scarcely had the sun risen
above the horizon before the joyful sound of " Land ho V 9
delighted all hands. " Where aways ? " " On the starboard
bow." After a short interval the cry, "Land ho!" was

DOMINICA. 7

again repeated. u Where aways V " Right ahead !" and,
on the third repetition of the same exclamation and the
same question, we were informed that it was " on the star-
board beam." Every one now jumped into the rigging ;
whilst I, mounting to the fore-yard, beheld with the most
intense interest, rising from the waters at various points,
numerous little blue pinnacles strongly defined against the
clear morning sky.

As we approached from the N.E., the islands arising to our
view proved to be Dominica, or Ohevahoa, in front ; Hood's
Island, or Fetuhugu, on our right ; San Pedro, or Onateava,
on our left; and, in the passage between the two latter,
Oatin. On gradually approaching these isles of the Pacific,
peak after peak of their mountain-tops was perceived
emerging one after the other from the sea, the islands
extending in dark masses along the horizon. As we sailed
along the shores of Dominica, the glowing tropical sun
lighted up the landscape, revealing to our gaze the numerous
bays that stretched up into the land, and the deep valleys,
clothed with the most luxuriant vegetation. The Call-call
mountains in the rear were seen, flanked on either side by
precipitous spurs, which spread in all directions from the
centre range down towards the sea, terminating in bold
bluffs that received the shock of the Pacific.

Approaching the south-eastern extremity of Dominica, we
found ourselves at the entrance of an extensive bay, pro-
tected on the extreme right by a massive wall of rock several
hundred feet high, and extending for about a mile into the
sea. Here we. hove-to, expecting that a canoe would put
out from the bay ; but, to our disappointment, none of the
natives, if any were settled there, appeared. In vain I
asked for information from the captain and the doctor
respecting the character of the place before us. So scanty
were the particulars I could glean from them, that I began

8 oatih.

to suspect that their boasted knowledge of the islands — at
least of this group— was not much above my own. I there-
fore resolved to proceed through the narrow straits that
divide the islands of Dominica and Oatin, and make for
Resolution Bay, in the latter island, where the French were
said at that moment to have a settlement. The distance
between these islands does not seem more than three miles.
A rapid current, setting southerly, hurries the voyager too
quickly through a scene of such beauty that it is impossible
to do justice to it by any description. On the left, Oatin
rises in a sloping plain towards the mountains. When the
S.W. point is turned, the shore is seen to be indented with
various bays, whilst on the opposite coast the red, bare rock
of the promontory before mentioned ascends from the ocean
like a wall. Further on, though the rock is still precipitous,
there are places where the inclination is so gentle that the
ascent is practicable; such spots being clothed from the
water's edge in a dense mass of foliage, save where here and
there the overhanging cliffs protrude their black fronts, or
where the mountain torrents have swept away the scanty
soil with its verdant clothing, leaving bald red patches that
rather vary than disfigure the landscape. The whole scene
is enlivened by numerous cascades, which may be seen
bounding over dark rocks or peeping through the deep shade
of the ravines, whilst the base of the mountains above the
whole extent of the passage is lashed by the waves, which
beat against it in one line of sparkling foam.

On rounding the S.E. end of Oatin a lovely bay presented
itself to our view. Either side was protected by dark, high
rocks, against which the sea broke fiercely. At some dis-
tance, however, we could see the waves rippling gently on the
yellow sand that fringed the upper part of the bay. An
extensive cocoa-nut grove, at no distance from the shore,
invited to the peaceful seclusion of its shady recesses. Even

BESOLUTION BAT. 9

the rough Jacks were impressed with the beauty of the land-
scape, and many an exclamation of delight escaped from them
as we glided rapidly along this ever- varying scene.

It was supposed, as we approached it, that this might be
Resolution Bay, to which we were bound ; but on coming
opposite its entrance, we could see no appearance of a settle*
ment. Indeed, there was not a single habitation of any kind,
not even a canoe on the beach. I was much astonished at
this, as I had understood that the coasts of all these bays, and
the valleys that descended to them, were inhabited by a
numerous population. Yet in this inviting spot all was still
as the grave. As some bold headlands to leeward, however,
promised other inlets, we stood on our course pretty close to
the shore. Beyond the first point we passed, another bay
opened up with groves like the former, but too small for a
ship to anchor in. Amongst the rocks our attention was
attracted by an object moving, which we soon descried to be
a man. We hailed him, but he seemed as anxious to avoid
us as we were desirous of a closer interview with him. He
crept cautiously among the boulders till near the level beach,
when we fired a gun as a signal to him. This, however, only
accelerated his movements, and rushing over the exposed
space, unencumbered as he was by garment of any kind, he
was soon lost to view amongst the trees.

Some heavy black clouds that had been gathering round
the high mountain peak of Oatin now began to roll down its
sides. At the same time the wind rose, and a violent squall
struck us just as we hove-to in front of the entrance to a
much more picturesque and spacious bay than either of the
others, but the wind rushed through its rock-guarded entrance
with such force that we were obliged to run from it. This
was evidently Resolution Bay, some large white houses,
together with a fort and signal-post, being distinctly visible.
Although we also must have been seen by many on shore, no

10 THE SIGNAL.

flag was raised in reply to ours. We fired a gun to attract
attention, but its only response was the echo from the moun-
tains. No pilot boat put off from the shore, nor even one of
the numerous canoes that I had understood would imme-
diately surround a ship on her approach. Many absurd sup-
positions were imagined in explanation of this silence. One
surmised that the French had murdered all the natives, and
then had left the place ; another, that the natives had killed
the French, and were afraid of showing themselves ; a third,
that, like the celebrated Kilkenny cats, each had killed the
other, and that none were left to tell the tale.

While we were still close to the entrance, we were again
struck by a squall more violent than the former, for it caused
the loss of our jib, a mishap which forced us to retreat

As the mysterious silence that hung over the place still
continued unbroken, we decided on shaping our course
towards Nukaheva, the principal settlement of the French,
and the residence of the governor of this group. Spreading
our sails before the S.E. trade winds, we ran close under the
western coast of Dominica, a continued line, uninterrupted
by point or bay, many hundred feet in height, and clothed
with one mass of undying foliage, save where the brown rocks
beneath, indented with numerous caves, are washed by the
ocean. Our attention was soon specially attracted to one of
the latter, near which we saw something moving, which we
discovered to be a piece of white cloth waved as a signal We
at once hove-to, waving a signal in return, when the figure
of a man presented itself at the entrance, beckoning us to
approach the shore ; but as it would have been inconvenient
to launch the boat at that moment, we proceeded on our
course.'

At the extreme S.W. point wewere becalmed for the greater
part of the afternoon, and drifted to a spot in rather disagree-
able proximity to the breakers. The listless monotony of

TYPBB BAY. 11

the calm, however, was broken by a large school of porpoises
sporting around us, two of which we succeeded in capturing.
About sunset the breeze freshened, and during the night
we made an easy passage to Nukaheva, some sixty or seventy
miles distant. Daylight found us close off Typee Head, at
the mouth of a spacious and lovely bay.

Typee, or Taipi Bay, the scene of many of those cannibal
orgies recorded by sailors, probably not without some founda-
tion, lies at the south-east end of the island of Nukaheva.
A few miles further to the westward, running along a bold
cliffy shore on the south side, we arrived at the bay of Anna
Maria, which, from its being the French naval post, and
residence of the governor, is the most important settlement
in the group. The natural advantages of its position are
very considerable. The entrance, about a quarter of a
mile in width, is guarded by precipitous cliffs on either side,
seamed with deep clefts by the action of the sea. The waves
break in constant foam on several rugged islets at the base
of these cliffs, making the entrance rather dangerous, espe-
cially as the wind here is very fickle, coming in gusts from
various quarters. As we approached the bay, we perceived,
on a high pinnacle to our right, the French flag floating from
a watch-tower, and through the passage a spacious land-
locked harbour, on whose silver waters a tall ship-of-war
floated securely. As a whale boat, propelled by six lusty
oars, was at the same time seen pushing out towards us,
bearing, no doubt, a pilot to carry us in, we hove-to to
receive him. He was no sooner on our deck than he com-
menced his task in a masterly manner, though, as we were
informed, he had such a love for strong liquors, when he
could procure them, that he was seldom in a fit state to take
charge of a ship.

According to his own story he had at one time served as
an officer in the British navy; but many years' residence

12 TATTOOING.

•

amongst the savages, together with habitual intemperance,
had left few traces of the gentleman about him, though he
was decently clad when he came aboard of us. His crew,
six in number, being the first South Sea Islanders I had yet
seen, were objects of considerable interest to me. They
were fine, tall, manly-looking fellows, with a proud bearing and
easy carriage. Their features were far superior to those of"
some Sandwich Islanders I had seen in California. The horrid
system of tattooing, however, disfigures the men frightfully*
In most of the islands of the South Seas the face is spared in
the process. The gracefully-curved lines that I have seen
traced on some parts of the body are decidedly ornamental, but
in this island the countenance is disfigured with rude black
patches, invariably in straight lines. The face of one of the
natives, in the upper part, was enveloped from eyes to fore-
head in a perpetual mask ; while another had on one side
alone straight lines extending from the top to the bottom of
the nose, and to either extremity of the ear. A third had,
besides sundry smaller streaks of beauty, a coal-black patch
across one half of the mouth and cheek. A handsome youth
was ornamented with some fine hair lines drawn on one side
of his face from the corner of the eye, the nose, and mouth,
and another with sundry bars running entirely across the
face like the visor of a helmet drawn down. Tattooing gives
the face a wild, fierce expression, which is not characteristic
of these people, who are generally gentle and timid, though
not without cunning.

We sailed well up the bay, and came to anchor about mid-
way across, not far from the man-o'-war, from which a boat
was immediately despatched with an officer to board us. This
official politely requested to see our manifest, and required a
minute description of all arms on board, which, together
with spirits, are the only articles not' allowed to be sold to
the natives. All other things you may introduce among

BAY OF ANNA MARIA. 13

them, duty free, some pilot dues being the only charges.
We then got a permit to land, a privilege which I did not at
that time avail myself of.

The bay of Anna Maria is an irregular circle, perhaps a
mile in extent each way, protected on either side by pre-
cipitous spurs coming down from the central mountains.
The blue waters are fringed by the yellow sands of the beach,
immediately behind which is the dense green foliage of the
▼alley, which extends to the swelling hills that arise clad
with autumn-tinted grass, ferns, or tall cane brakes, the
whole surmounted by the towering dark mountains in the
background. To the right of the bay, on a rising ground,
is the fort, with its formidable guns, sadly out of harmony
with the peaceful character of the scene. Below is the go-
vernor's house, with its orange-trees, handsome gardens, and
grounds, and in immediate vicinity the other French Govern-
ment buildings. On the left, peeping through the bread-
fruit groves, and sheltered by the waving palm and the
broad-leaved banana, are the cottages of the natives. The
cool sea breeze which constantly fans these shores prevents
that oppressive sultry heat which is so severely felt on con-
tinents, even in much lower latitudes.

In the evening I landed, and was requested by a sentry to
call at the governor's residence, whither he accompanied
us with an interpreter. The house is a handsome wooden
structure, with extensive verandah, pleasantly situated in
grounds ornamented with various European plants and
shrubs. We were conducted into a spacious hall, whence,
after awaiting for a short time his excellency's pleasure, I
was ushered through a door to the right, where the governor,
with two secretaries, was seated in an office, apparently im-
mersed in business, though perhaps not a dozen ships call
here in the year. A single company of soldiers and the man-
o'-war in the bay are found sufficient to overawe the Mar-

14 TRADING WITH A FRENCH COMMISSARY.

quesan savages, some thousands in number. The soldiers
and sailors, with a few missionary clergy and some servants,
comprise the French settlement. In the fort there were at
this time also two or three of the revolutionary chiefs of
France, whom, as they were doomed to pass their exile in
solitary confinement, we were not permitted to see.

The governor was at first rather dignified, but subse-
quently thawed a little, and became more agreeable.
Having explained the object of our visit, he informed us that,
with the exception of arms and munitions of war, there was
no restriction on trading throughout the group; a regulation,
he said, referring more especially to the leeward islands, as
with the others they concerned themselves little. On with-
drawing, the governor requested me to call at the depot, to
see if the commissary had any business to transact with me.
We accordingly proceeded through a long avenue shaded by
magnificent trees, all new to me, and soon arrived at the
commissariat department, where, after some preliminary con-
versation, the functionary there remarked —

" Ah, I see you have a quantity of spirits and wine on
board."

I knew he had none ; and to Jacks of all nations they
are indispensable.

" 0h, yes," said I, " only a small quantity. I wish my
whole cargo was composed of these commodities."

" Why," said he, laughing knowingly, " you must have
been very simple to bring any here. You know you are not
permitted to sell them to the natives ; but rather than that
you should be at much loss in visiting our place, I would
take some from you myself, if at a low figure."

" Oh, thank you," said I, " you are extremely kind ;
but, in fact, I have none to offer here, as I shipped them for
another market, where I am confident of a much higher price
than you could possibly offer me, even if you required them."

VISIT TO THE PADRE. 15

" But all the islands in the Pacific are well supplied from
Tahiti/' he replied.

" Pardon me, my dear sir," I said ; " I understand there is*
quite a deficiency in Tahiti itself at present."

" Oh, not at all. The last vessel from that place informed
us to the contrary."

" Yes ; but the governor tells me it is a long time since
any craft has been here from Tahiti/'

After some more fencing — for this is the way business is
done in these remote parts — I sold a small quantity — not so
much as they required, making some three hundred per
cent, over cost on most of the articles ; and more than that
on the brandy, which I confess was wretched stuff.

The following day, Sunday, the doctor and I called on the
padre ; but his manner being coldly polite, and our power of
speaking French not very fluent, our visit was soon cut short.
I then sauntered towards the governor's house, where, on
presenting my card, I was admitted with less formality than
on the previous day. Although the governor knew as
little English as I did French, he was a perfect master of
Spanish, with the aid of which, as I knew a little of it, we
managed to bungle through a conversation of some length.
His excellency told me that the French station at Oatin had
been abandoned ; and, as the natives on the island were at
war just then, it was possible that they might have been at
some other point, and had not seen us.

The following day the captain sent some men on shore to
cut firewood and fill the water-casks, for which there is no
charge here ; and as the articles disposed of were soon landed,
I myself followed to see something of the interior of the
valley. I fortunately met the interpreter, who volunteered
to accompany me. He was an Italian, long, lank, and dark-
visaged, dressed in a black coat and white trousers, so short
as to expose his bare legs ; for though he had shoes, he had

16 THE KING'S HOUSE.

no stockings. Our first visit was to the pilot's — a neat little
white house on a rising ground, where he kept a trading
establishment, and picked up from the natives the few dollars
spent amongst them by the vessels that occasionally call at
the port. He said he was supplied with goods principally
from Tahiti, and I believe it. His small establishment is the
only trading-post in the whole group ; any other place would,
in all probability, be too insecure.

We passed a neat garden with abundance of pine-apples,
bananas, &c., which belonged to one of the priests ; but my
previous reception by a representative of their order had been
so cool that I did not venture on a second attempt at frater-
nization. The king's house is near the beach, and as it was
the first native edifice I had entered, I.beheld it with some in-
terest. Erected on an extensive platform, it is built of large
stones, with flat surfaces. The structure itself, of bamboo, is
some twenty feet in height at the back, which is a little in-
clined inwards. The roof, which is generally thatched with
the leaf of the banana-tree, descends to about five feet from
the ground, where it is supported by a proportionably low
wall of bamboos, the sides inclining gradually to the rear.
Inside, two massive wooden columns support a heavy cross-
beam, to which the rafters are attached, a light frame sus-
taining them in front and rear. The bamboos are sufficiently
open to permit a draught of air constantly to pass through,
keeping the place pleasantly cool. Mats or tapa (native
cloth) are also sometimes put up round the walls, or arranged
so as to form partitions. The whole building is, perhaps,
some forty feet long by twelve or fifteen broad. A pavement,
similar to one on the outside, runs the whole length of the
structure, and about half its breadth, from the front to a
rounded piece of timber sunk in the ground about five feet
from a wall that runs from one end of the building to the
other. Inside of this space a quantity of mats are strewed,

A RAMBLE. 17

where the natives sleep at night, or recline during the day,
their heads resting on a wooden pillow, and their feet sup-
ported by the above-mentioned timber, or cooled on the
pavement beyond it. The inmates, when I entered, consisted
of several men, old and young, with women and children*
Two or three young girls were quietly grouped in a corner,
repeating some religious verses they had been taught by the
clergy ; and as their soft, black eyes, with long fringes half
vdiling them from sight, rested on the book or little crucifix,
they seemed formed for devotion alone.

In several other houses which I visited, seeing the inmates
similarly occupied, I said, "This is extraordinary. From
what I have read of the Marquesas, there has been a great
change effected here."

" Yes," replied my companion, " it is wonderful what the
French clergy have effected."

As I had observed several air-holes which could have been
produced only by cannon shot, I gently hinted that perhaps
French artillery had had a little to do with the change also.

I wished to prolong my walk, and as my guide was forced
to return, I pursued my ramble alone. Taking the first path
that led inland, I was soon pushing blindly through a mass
of shrubbery that overhung, and occasionally obstructed, the
way. The pleasant sound of falling waters ere long led me to
the banks of a stream that rushed swiftly through a deep-
worn bed, where I stood transfixed by the scene before me.
In a mirror-like pool reclined a youthful native, of form so
perfect that she might have been a model for a sculptor. At
first she was perfectly still; but soon, dashing her round arms
into the water, she threw a sparkling shower of spray above
her head, and as she flung back the long black tresses from
her face and neck, she for the first time observed me. An
exclamation of surprise escaped her, and springing to a sheet
of tapa on the bank hard by, she threw it around her person,

o

18 WATER-NYMPHS.

and with a few agile bounds hastened to the top of the oppo-
site bank. There, like a startled fawn turning to view its
pursuer, she paused for a moment, and with the peculiar ex-
clamation of the islands, " Ye-o-o-hu 1" fled towards a hut I
had not before observed, and disappeared from my startled gaze.
While I yetstood transfixed, another nymph emerged from the
hut, and then another, followed once more by the Venus of the
crystal pool, with the addition of a little more drapery, all three
waving theirhandsnoiselessly for me to approach — a movement
made by the South Sea Islanders in an exceedingly graceful
manner, the arm being elevated above the head, while the
hand is waved forward and downward. For an instant stories
of the deceit and barbarity of the natives flashed across my
mind ; but the beautiful hands beckoning gracefully again, what
man, more especially what Irishman, could resist the sirens?
I sprang down the bank and across the stream, in my hurry
plumping up to my knees in the water, whereas, had I taken
it coolly, I might have crossed on the stepping-stones. Though
I was not a minute in ascending the opposite bank, the three
goddesses had flown. As they could only have reached the
house, however, I at once made for it, and sans ceremonie
walked in, to be received at once in the arms of my water-
nymph, whom I knew by the coldness of her nose, which she
rubbed most lovingly against mine — a peculiar kind of saluta-
tion which I had to submit to from each of the other fair
ones. How shall I chronicle it ? One of the lovely trio
proved to be a backslider from the group of devotees I had a
few minutes before seen so piously occupied at the king's
house. I pointed significantly towards the place where I
had previously seen her, uttering the word " missionary/*
which she repeated, indicating at the same time, by a suffi-
ciently expressive sign, that she was " missionary ,J only from
the lips — an avowal at which the other frail ones laughed im-
moderately. The girls now spread mats, and urged me to sit

NAIVE HYPOCRISY. 19

down. They began to ask me a thousand questions, which,
alas ! in my ignorance of their language, I could not answer.
The only words I could make out were one or two about the
ship and the French, or " wee-wees/' as they called them.
Just then a gentleman with a tattooed face entered, and, not
waiting for an introduction, came forward and shook hands,
omitting the nose operation, but producing a pipe and
tobacco, which, after lighting by flint and steel struck into a
bamboo -box of cotton, he handed to me. The man, whether
husband or brother of the ladies, was evidently not the least
jealous, but, pointing to them and to me, waved his hand
towards the ship. I signed, was I to take the three ? a ques-
tion which he answered by a cordial affirmative. As I ap-
peared to assent to the proposition, the three graces in their
excitement expressed their delight by attitudes some of
which, I must acknowledge, were not of the most decorous
character.

At this stage of the proceedings, however, the man, who
had gone for a moment to the door, hurriedly pronounced a
few words, on hearing which the gay damsels speedily squatted
themselves down in the further corner of the hut, looking as
discreet as any maiden aunt could have desired. The Kanaka
at the same time drew near to me and whispered, " Frani,
Frani, mikinary ! " and looking through the bamboos, I be-
held my stockingless friend, with a Frenchman, passing near
the place. When they were completely out of sight I was
permitted to retreat, after another rubbing of noses from the
young ladies, whose extraordinary change of conduct I could
now understand. The character of the natives was un-
changed ; they merely acted a lie in their semblance of devo-
tion. As I wound my way towards the beach through a
grove of palm-trees, Moore's beautiful lines, so well exempli-
fied here, recurred to my memory, and more bright eyes
peeped from their huts as I sang, —

c 2

20 ENGAGEMENT OF AN INTERPRETER.

" Some looks there are so holy,

They seem but given, they seem but given,
As splendid beacons, solely,

To light to heaven, to light to heaven ;
While some — oh ! ne'er believe them,

With tempting ray, with tempting ray,
Would lead us — God forgive them ! —

The other way, the other way ! "

These young ladies I learned, on arriving on board, were
among those who were eager to avail themselves of certain
arrangements made, contrary to all decorum, by the sailors to
receive after sunset visits from a number of the " belles of
the bay."

That evening a young man, an American, came on board
to offer his services as interpreter. As this was an experi-
mental voyage, I was most anxious to learn the resources of
the group, the closest in the South Seas to California ; but,
from the time already spent unsuccessfully, I had determined
to proceed elsewhere. This young man, however, assured
me that there was a great quantity of sandal- wood on the
other islands, and that a good trade might be done there in
live stock. As I had now discovered that no one on board
knew anything of the group, I employed him, agreeing at
the same time to carry four natives of Dominica to their
native bay, together with a friend of the interpreter,
and return with him and his companion to the neighbouring
island of Roahuga, where they resided.

21

CHAPTER II.

Bay of Hana-ti-Tapa — A* King and his' Courtiers — Visit of
the Queen — Her Costume and Adornments — " Me Tapa " —
Anointing Oil — An Attempt at Conversation — A Proposal
of Marriage — Hana-ti-Kona — Native Battles — Bay of Hana-
pae-Oa — Shanaka, Motona, and Na Ahe — Stoical Indifference
— The Waihenes at Hana-ou-Pi — Entertained by the King
— A Night with the King of Eka Noa— A Native Mode of
Smoking — An Excellent Bepast — Marquesan Politeness — The
Loan of a Wife — Sail along the Coast — Bay of Ta Ana — Vain
Attempt to reach the Ship — Settlement on Resolution Bay —
A travelled Marquesan Chief— A Brother Mason recognised by
Dr. R.— Ransom of a White Man— A Three Days' Battle-
Rival Chiefs — Natives of Oto Hana — Journey — An Irishman in
the Marquesas— Visited in Sickness by a Wise Woman — Vai Mate
— Reception on our Return to Hana-ma-Nu — Unfortunate
Difference with the Natives,

IT is the law of the port to give twenty-four hours' notice
before leaving, but as we had not been made aware of
this fact, we received our permit to sail the morning after
the evening on which we made application. At the time
appointed, accordingly, we were standing out of the narrow
entrance to this picturesque bay ; and as the land breeze
which blows throughout the night had not yet died away, we
found no difficulty in getting out to sea.

We had a dead beat to the point we had left a few days
before ; the same distance we had performed in a night, oil
our voyage hither, taking us nearly a week to return. We
arrived, without any incident worth relating, off the bay of
Hana-ti-Tapa, on the west or leeward coast of the island.

22 A ROYAL VISIT.

The bay is small, and sheltered on all sides except the west,
from which point the wind rarely blows. There is good
anchorage in it, but room only for three or four vessels to
swing at a time. We had not yet dropped our anchor when
we observed the beach crowded with natives, and from the
display of white tapa, the fair sex evidently formed a large
portion of the multitude. Several canoes were already
pushing out towards us. In one of the first of these was a
figure arrayed in bright scarlet, who, the interpreter informed
us, was the king, and in a few moments he and his naked
courtiers were on board. His Majesty's robes consisted of a
small scarlet blanket fastened with a wooden skewer across
his neck, and a tapa girt round his loins. Most of his
suite wore the tapa, while some were content with the
fig-leaf. But for the scarlet vestment, it would have
been difficult to distinguish this royal personage from the
canaille that followed him. He occasionally, it is true,
affected an air of dignity, which he was unable to maintain
when he observed anything that excited his wonder or
cupidity. He was invited, with two or three of his principal
chiefs, into the cabin, from which the others were excluded.
A watch was placed at the same time at different points of
the ship, to see that nothing was pilfered by any of his suite.
Some brandy which was handed to the king he drank with
much satisfaction. His people made wry faces at it, which,
nevertheless, did not prevent their asking a repetition of
the dosa He willingly acceded to our request that he should
remain on board all night — a necessary precaution, I was in-
formed, against treachery — but begged us to send a boat
ashore for his queen, a demand which was at once complied
with. As the boat approached the beach, a great commotion
was observable among the white tapas, who, disrobing in the
most expeditious manner, rushed into the sea, and the next
moment were seen stemming the tide with one hand, whilst

THE QUEEN. 23

with the other they held aloft their white drapery. There
were bo many of them, that Jack was compelled most
ungollantly to eject a large proportion, who, though they
most have seen that the boat could not contain half their
number, continued, like so many mermaids, to sport around
it, now holding by stem or stern, now by the oars, and then
off again, laughing and screaming with delight.

The queen, on arriving on board, came immediately aft,
together with several of her attendants — dames, we presumed,
of high degree. Some slipped to the forward part of the
ship, and not a few remained in the chains beneath the bows.
The queen was clothed in the usual sheet of white tapa, which,
leaving the right arm bare, is cast over the left shoulder,
and completely envelopes the form to the ankles. Her hair,
raised entirely up round her head, was folded towards one
side into a kind of pinnacle, which was swathed in a roll
of very fine tapa like muslin. Her ears were perforated, and
ornamented with curiously-cut bones or ivory, and around
her neck were some strings of scented nuts and wreaths of
flowers. The arm was tattooed elaborately, from the finger
ends to near the shoulder, with a deep blue tinge which was
not unbecoming. Her feet and ankles seemed to be covered
with beautifully- worked blue stockings ; and as I stooped to
admire them, Her Majesty, flattered by the attention, rather
shocked my modesty by suddenly, amid the uproarious mirth
of all her court, lifting the drapery to such a height that I
observed the same delicate tracery, which was evidently
due to the art of the tattooer, extending above the knee. A
few lines were traced vertically on the lips, and an ornamented
scroll decorated the ears. The maids of honour were dressed
much alike, some wearing wreaths instead of tapa on the
head, and some flowers instead of the bone ornaments in the
ear. Few were tattooed, except on the fingers and lips. I
presume it was my admiration of Her Majesty's stockings

24 "me tapa."

that pleased her, for her attentions became so pointed that I
was compelled to make a hasty retreat from the cabin.

The deck was now crowded with the beauties of Hana-ti-
Tapa, mostly clad in white tapa, though I blush for the sex
in recording it, some of them, who, no doubt, in their
aquatic gambols had lost their simple robes stood in na-
ture's primitive attire; and, many of them being of
unexceptionable form, illustrating the poet's words —
"Beauty when unadorned's adorned the most." One of
these dark-eyed beauties, that would have formed a model
for the Venus de' Medici, as she stood in the same modest
attitude, particularly attracted my attention. There was a
considerable swell running into the bay, and as the ship
rolled from side to side, she was much disconcerted, being
obliged occasionally to catch at something to preserve her
equilibrium. As I approached her, laughing, I acknowledge,
at her distressful situation, she modestly crouched down to
the deck, enshrouding herself in her long black tresses, still
dripping from the tide, repeating in a supplicating tone, " Me
tapa, me tapa I" and with an appealing look stretching forth
her beautifully-rounded arm, and a hand whose tapering
fingers the noblest lady of our own bright court might be
proud of, to solicit some clothing. Who could resist the ap-
peal ? Returning to the cabin, I brought her a piece of calico,
which she hastily flung over her shoulders [in graceful folds,
and then sprang up, her whole manner changed. Her eyes
sparkling with pleasure, she gave me the accustomed saluta-
tion, and then started off to a group of her companions to
display her acquisition, and to join in the toilette which they
were performing, anointing their bodies with a fragrant oil,
which they poured from a small gourd or nutshell, inter-
mixing it with prepared turmeric, of which there is abun-
dance on the islands, and which gives the skin an agreeable
yellow tinge. As this preparation very easily rubs off, and

TAHEA, 25

the odour of the oil is not agreeable to all, it is not desirable
to come into close contact with those thus anointed. The
fragrance of the flowers and shrubs from which the oil is
extracted is, indeed, exquisite, but the cocoa-nut adds a heavy
smell that is offensive*

Wringing the water from her tresses, and with her small
fingers combing her hair into folds which she placed jauntily
on one side of her head, my Venus had soon completed her
toilette, and, with the addition of a wreath of flowers around
her neck, came bounding towards me, evidently quite proud
of her improved appearance.

" Well, Venus/' said I, " you are very pretty/'
" Me no Venusy, me Tahea," said she, shaking her head
disapprovingly.
"Oh, your name isn't Venus, it's Tahea?"
"Eh, eh !" said she.
"Why, Tahea, you speak English."
" Eh !" (nodding with much satisfaction) . " Me see Nuka-
heva too mushy."
" Oh ! you've been in Nukaheva a long time?"
" Eh, long a timey."
" Nukaheva very good?"

" Eh ; Nukaheva goody long a timey, by, by, Prancy too
much poo, poo" (imitating the action of firing a gun),
" Nukaheva no goody."

This was about the extent of her English, for after a few
more attempts to continue the conversation, it entirely broke
down. She was evidently very proud of her accomplish-
ments, and speaking about as much French as English, con-
sidered herself quite a linguist.

I was about to re-enter the cabin when Tahea, laying one
hand gently on my arm, the other on her own bosom, looked
into my face with the most bewitching expression, and
whispered, "Me you I" What was to be done? This was

26 WARRIORS IN THB U TAI."

unmistakably a proposal of marriage, and as I bad never
before been placed in the same position by a yonng lady, I
was in a very awkward predicament. I felt, however, that it
would be decidedly ungallant to refuse ; so imitating her own
manner, I nodded my head, saying, " Eh, eh/' and hastened
into the cabin, whilst she, screaming and clapping her hands,
bounded off to her companions.

As it was near sunset, the vessel was cleared of the crowd,
with the exception of a select few in attendance on the king
and queen, who were allowed to remain.

We stayed three days in this place, during which time we
purchased a considerable quantity of sandal- wood and some
live stock, all at a cheap rate, barter being carried on chiefly
by means of firearms (old flint guns were preferred to per-
cussion), powder, flints, balls, tobacco, cloth, common scarlet
blankets, &c. On the third day I went on shore after dinner,
and on landing was led by some of the natives to what I
supposed to be the king's dwelling, but which I subse-
quently learned was the " Tai," a kind of assembly-house,
where a number of the warriors of the bay were now congre-
gated, having a jollification with spirits procured from the
ship, enlivened by occasional wrestling matches, throwing
the stone, &c. I was invited to join them in their games,
but in their present rather elevated condition I did not think
it prudent to do so. I asked the king, through the inter-
preter, after Her Majesty, and said I expected to see her in
the house, at which they all laughed, exclaiming, " Taboo,
taboo." The house, I learned, was set apart as a kind of
gentleman's club, which, by the law, it was death for a
woman's foot to desecrate.

The king asked me to call on the queen, and sent a lad
with me to point out her residence, a house prettily situated on
the edge of a stream, just at its entrance to the bay, and
shaded by groves of bread-fruit and palm-trees. A small

A ROYAL PRINCESS. 27

canoe floated on the water, about which a number of children
— I might almost say infanta — were sporting, swimming,
diving, and jumping. Some of them certainly were scarcely
beyond the age when children in our country would not
be trusted to walk alone, much less perform such aquatic
feats. As we approached I discerned the queen and her
party, seated on the sward near the river's brink, in no ex-
pectation of my appearance, which caused a most undignified
sensation in the royal court. How they shouted, laughed,
and yahooed whilst a place was made for me beside the
queen, a position of honour which, as she was rather j>assee,
I would willingly have exchanged for one less distinguished.

I was astonished to find here a woman from the Sandwich
Islands who spoke English tolerably. How on earth she
ever found her way to this place is a mystery. Here also, for
the first time, I saw the sister of the king, a very beautiful girl,
who, although young, had her arms and ankles elaborately
tattooed. On turning to speak to her, I was amused at the
air of dignity she at first assumed. As this, however, pre-
vented her from participating in the amusement that was
going on, she was constrained to throw it off and join the
fan, which she did heartily. They turned up my sleeves,
and unbuttoned my shirt, uttering exclamations of surprise
at the whiteness of my skin, and contrasting it with their
own, from which I judged that they could. not have had much
intercourse with foreigners. The princess, on her departure,
asked me to visit her at her own house, where she was then
going, an invitation which I declined.

Business was now concluded here, and we only awaited the
land breeze, which always commences with sundown, and the
ebb tide, to proceed to sea.

That night accordingly, when the land breeze sprang up,
we put to sea, and the following morning stood along the
thore to the north. The adjoining bay of Hana-ti-Kona we

28 BAY OF PAW MAW.

did not enter. Here we observed that the village, instead
of being in the valley as usual, was situated on a pinnacle
of the northern ridge that protects it, thus affording the in-
habitants more safety from their powerful neighbours of
Hana-ti-Tapa, with whom they were at war. Their battles,
however, are not very bloody, the hostile armies firing from
the opposite ridges, with a mile of valley intervening, accom-
panying the musket shots with almost as effective volleys of
shouting and hooting. If one or two men are killed in a
battle, it is considered a bloody one, and is recorded for
years in their history. Not unfrequently many captives are
taken by ambush parties, and only a short time previous to
our visit a number of young girls, whilst fishing by torch-
light on the rocks, were seized, and became sacrifices to the
cannibal appetites of their enemies.

On the west or lee side of the island there are some good
though small harbours, in which vessels of any size might
find shelter. As so much unnecessary time, however, had
been lost, I resolved in future merely to land in the boats,
and let the brig lie off and on. By this means I was enabled
to day to visit the bay of Hana-pae-Oa, where I was shown
an oven erected with the design of cooking for their cannibal
orgies a white man who had killed one of their chiefs. The
destined victim, however, had meanwhile escaped to another
island, .and it was by no means probable they would find an
early opportunity of gratifying their revenge.

We visited next Shanaka, Motona, and Na Ahe, the latter
one of the most fertile valleys I had yet seen, small, but
with a considerable proportion of level land. At Paw Maw,
the most northerly bay on the west side, and the largest, we
landed the boys, who had been long absent from their
native valley. I was astonished at the stoical indifference
manifested by their people on their return. Few of the men
of the tribe — who were for the most part fishing with long

GREETING OF THE WAIHENES. 29

poles of bamboo from the rocks around the bay, in which
they had abundance of sport — left their occupation.

This is the most extensive though not the best bay on the
lee side of Dominica. Being open to the roll of the
ocean, with a wind from south to west, it would be dan*
gerous. The north side is protected by a promontory of
precipitous rocks, that runs like a stupendous pier out into
the sea. During the two days we remained in these bays
little business was done, and on the third morning we were
on the weather side. The whole line of this coast is indented
by little harbours, separated by high cliffs, terminating in
bold bluffs, on which the ocean continually dashes in foam.
The bays, being frequently rough from exposure to the east
winds, are rarely visited by shipping. The first we entered
in the boat was Hana-ou-Pi, the most northerly,' On
coming between the bluffs, I saw the beach already covered
with natives, and we had not reached half the distance to
shore, when we beheld a host of them in the water swimming
towards us. Fearing some treachery, I looked to my pistols,
but the interpreter told me they were only the Waihenes
coming to greet us, and I soon perceived that they were in-
deed all young girls. On they came, shouting, laughing,
and playing in the water like a shoal of mermaids, till we
were in their midst, when it was with the greatest difficulty
we could advance. We were also in momentary danger of a
capsize from the number that endeavoured to clamber into
the boat, most* of whom we unceremoniously ejected. Their
costume was the simplest that can be adopted. A few had
a girdle of leaves around them, but most had not even this
unpretending garment. At the suggestion of the interpreter
I allowed two of the chief personages present to come into
the boat. The rest desisted from their efforts to board us,
but clung about the boat, or swam around it with one hand,
whilst, with the other extended towards us, they exclaimed,

SO POET-POET.

"Me backey, me backey." These girls are aH fond of manu-
factured tobacco, which, though the weed grows luxuriantly
on all the South Sea Islands, they do not themselves know
how to prepare. We landed on the rocks near a little
cascade that bunt from an overhanging cliff, and fell into a
wide basin of fresh water clear as crystal Some children
were here filling water-shells; and the young women, I
observed, as they emerged from the sea, threw themselves
into this bright bath before resuming their tapa, the salt
water being considered injurious to the skin.

The king of this place met us at the beach, and invited us
to his house, where a hundred questions were asked and an-
swered. Some of his people were busy preparing a meal which,
when placed before us, was not very inviting in appearance.
It consisted of " poey-poey, w made from the bread-fruit with
the expressed juice of the cocoa-nut, like rich cream in ap-
pearance, but stronger in taste. The bread-fruit is cooked
on a fire of wood, and the skin being stripped off/ the fruit
has the appearance of a large round loaf without the
crust. This is carefully pounded with a stone pestle
in a wooden oblong bowl or trough, and some bread-fruit
that has been buried in the ground until it is in a fermented
state, and very sour, is added to it. This gives the poey a
sharp, pleasant taste, and makes it lighter. After these are
well beaten together, the cocoa-nut milk is thrown over
the whole, and after it has been properly cooked it is served
up rather warm. As it • was intended the interpreter
and I should both eat out of the same dish, an .operation
which must be performed with the fingers (knives, forks,
and spoons being rejected by this primitive race), I drew a
line of demarcation between us across the bowl, to the great
amusement of the bystanders. I found some difficulty in
conveying the paste-like substance to my mouth. One of
the lookers-on, who had been laughing heartily at my

BAT OF EKA HOA. 31

attempts, dashed his two fore-fingers into the mess, and roll-
ing them quickly round until they were thickly coated with
it, passed it through the milk, and then throwing his head
back, and opening his mouth wide, shoved in the two fingers
and their contents as far as possible, and after a moment's
gargling and sucking, drew them out without a particle of
the mixture adhering to them. As he was about to repeat
the operation, I stopped him, to the great amusement of his
friends, who indulged in another peal of laughter, especially
when I repeated the words, " Maitake, maitake " (" Good,
good"). Were it not for the mode of eating it, this really is a
very palatable mess.

The next bay, that of Moa-ia, together with one or two
smaller ones, we visited that day, passing occasionally to the
ship, which kept close in shore, to put our purchases on
board. Near sunset we entered the bay of Eka Hoa, the king
of which was a particular friend of the interpreter. The latter
assured us that the goods in the boat might with perfect
safety be removed to the king's house, and we therefore
decided to remain there all night. We proceeded along the
banks of a stream which, though now a mere brook that
we crossed several times without wetting our feet, showed, by
the immense boulders that filled its bed, that occasionally
the mountain torrents swelTed it into an impassable river.
It was a pleasant, cool walk of about half a mile in length,
during which we were completely sheltered from the declining
rays of the sun by the dense foliage of the nodding palms,
or the broad-leafed plantain, the stately bee, or the spreading
bread-fruit. On arriving at the king's house we were, of
course, surrounded by a great concourse of the natives, and a
particular bustle amongst the female portion of the household
showed that active preparations for a hospitable reception
were in progress. The king's entire body was so covered
with tattooing that no part of the original colour of the skin

32 SUPPEB WITH THE KING.

Was discernible, and he looked much more like a negro than
a Kanaka. He sat at one end of the house, whilst we
squatted on mats before him, encircled by a hundred wild
faces, urging more of their excited inquiries in a minute
than we could answer in an hour, and making such a din
that the king had to call them to order, and even to expel
some of the noisiest of them. Pipes were, as usual, intro-
duced. Some of the natives used a piece of green banana
or palm leaf rolled up in a cone or cheroot shape, the
narrow end of which they put into their mouths, when
they had filled it with tobacco. After a few whiffs they
passed it to the next person, as they did also with the
pipe, and no doubt thought us uncommonly selfish in our
protracted use of those which we had appropriated. At
supper, which was soon announced, the broad green leaf of
the banana served us for a table-cloth. Some roasted bread*
fruit, like a large white loaf smoking hot, together with ex-
cellent fish, " bomta," cooked in leaves, with an accompani-
ment of bananas, fayees, and roasted taro, formed an excellent
repast for hungry travellers. The water of the young green
cocoa-nut, fresh from the tree, afforded us a cool and delicious
beverage. The fluid found in the old cocoa-nuts, commonly
called milk, bears little if any resemblance to that of the
young nut. The former is never drunk by the natives, being
considered unwholesome, which it certainly is.

Supper over, and being fatigued by the day's labour under
a broiling sun, I expressed my wish to retire to rest The
house was consequently cleared of visitors, the king, queen,
and family alone remaining with us. The lights of the huts
had gone out, and I was just falling off into slumber, when I
was startled by some one taking a place beside me. I was
awake in an instant, and seized the intruder, whom I ejected
in the most unceremonious manner, at the same time calling
out to the interpreter, who, with the king, was immediately

LOAN OF A WIFE. 33

at my side. To my dismay I found that my visitor was a
personage no less august than Her Majesty the Queen. I, of
course, expected a tragic scene. Thoughts of the " green-
eyed monster " flashed across my mind, but, to my surprise,
the king informed me it was all right ; I being " Irikfe "
(king of the ship), and he king of Eka-Hoa, he only acted
with Marquesan politeness in presenting me with his wife.
I was now in an awkward position ; I had seen a play en-
titled, " The Loan of a Lover/' but never heard of the loan
of a wife before. I expressed my astonishment to the inter-
preter that so matronly-looking a lady should act so indis-
creetly — a statement which he rather freely translated into
something like a remonstrance that the lady was too old for
my taste. Her Majesty, whose womanly vanity was greatly
piqued by such an avowal, at once went off in high dudgeon,,
and the king himself was by no means pleased at my conduct,
in showing so little appreciation of the marked favour with
which he had treated me.

The following morning, on visiting the ship, I arranged
with the captain that I should proceed in the boat along as
many of the bays on this side as I could visit, returning to
the vessel at our starting-point. Many of the natives here
understand how to pull a good oar, and on this occasion I
took a crew of them, amongst whom was a young fellow
who seemed to have taken a particular liking to me. As is
usual in such cases, he became my friend, and we exchanged
names, a custom common among the South Sea Islanders,
by whom it is regarded as establishing a kind of relationship,
not only between the parties, but their people generally.

The sail along the coast was a most delightful one, though
the sun was excessively hot. The rowers partially protected
themselves against it by anointing their bodies with cocoa-
nut oil. The numerous bluffs here are for the most part
precipitous and rugged, crowned, too, by a forest of " Ito,"

D

34 BAT O* TA ANA.

or iron wood. The surf breaks on them with awful force,
and as we passed from point to point our fearless boatmen
hugged their base so close that we were frequently in the
swell which the next instant foamed on the cliffs, and rising
to a great height was dashed back in light spray from the
overhanging rocks. The deep bays still presented the same
quiet appearance, and every little indentation that was at
all protected, was clothed with foliage to the water's edge.
In one place, along a ledge of rocks, a spot was pointed out
where a number of young girls had been seized and carried
off to California by an American captain to be sold to the
highest bidder, for the worst of purposes.

After entering one or two minor bays, without any success
in trade, we proceeded at once to the great one of Ta Ana,
that which we had first observed on approaching the Mar-
quesas, and the most capacious in the island. The rocky
promontory, standing well to northward, shelters not only
this but two adjoining bays, of which more hereafter. The
natives of my crew were afraid to land here, their tribe
being at war with the people of the place. We therefore lay
on our oars while conversing with the natives assembled on
the shore, one of whom swam to us with some fire held aloft
in one hand to light our pipes. They were very anxious for
the vessel to come into their harbour, but the interpreter
said he did not consider it would be worth while, and, in
fact, was so anxious to get away that I suspect he was afraid
of being amongst them himself. It was late in the after-
noon when we left Ta Ana. We had still several miles to
pull before our return to Eka-Hoa, and, with a tired crew
and a considerable sea on, we did not make much progress.
In our course we passed the ship at some distance, steering
towards the point we had left We raised a signal, but as
the sun was declining behind the high hills of Dominica,
and we were in the shadow of the land, possibly those on

BEAUTIFUL SCENE. 35

board did not observe it, for she held on her course. Not
doubting, however, that she would soon round to, for the ap-
pointed place of meeting, we proceeded towards it, and en-
tered the bay at sunset. Our long delay had produced some
anxiety among the natives, with whom we were now on the
best terms, and the crowds on the beach received us with
shouts of welcome. They were most urgent that I should
remain another night with them, telling me the ship had
sailed and I should not find her. I was not to be detained,
however, to the great distress of my young friend, who had
prepared for my supper a baked piggy-riggy, which was now
brought down to the boat and put on board After a rub-
bing of noses all round we left, many of the poor people
being apparently really sorry at our departure.

The sun had already sunk below the horizon when we
cleared the bay of Eka-Hoa, and the short twilight of the
tropics left us but a few minutes to discover the vessel. As we
stood out into the wide Pacific the clouds were tinged with
the brightest crimson by the rays of the departed orb, and
the waves, tinted by their reflected colours, danced brightly
around us, whilst the tall pinnacles of Dominica and Oatin
showed their sharp outlines in bold relief against the glowing
sky. The scene was a most lovely one, and I was able
to contemplate it with the more satisfaction that we dis-
cerned the vessel, though at a considerable distance, standing
off the straits between the islands. The sea breeze had
fallen away, but a gentle land breeze, just enough to fill
our sails, began to breathe over the water, and we glided
pleasantly, though slowly, on our way. We soon observed,
however, that the ship was standing over towards Oatin,
and in half an hour or so she passed beneath the shadow
of the land, and was entirely lost to our view.

We now, therefore, stood out to sea, to cut her off when
she again left the land. By this movement we lost the wind

d2

36 A LIGHT TO LARBOARD.

and were compelled to take to our oars. After an hour or
more of hard pulling, we distinctly saw a light, evidently a
signal, from the ship to the shore, which we made for. At
the same time a fire which we had been observing for
some time on the hills of Oatin, suddeitfy began
to spread. The cane brakes and jungle had taken fire — a
common occurrence on the islands — and the flames ran
along the hill-side, producing so strong a glare that the
minute light from our vessel could no longer be distinguished.
We had been for some time thus pulling towards the shore,
when one of our men called out, " A light to larboard," and
there it was, sure enough, at no great distance, passing us
in an opposite direction. We hailed, but it was too far off,
and the noise of the sea and wind, now considerably risen,
was so great that any lesser sound could not be heard. We
put about, and again stood to sea, the blazing hills of Oatin
fortunately affording us a good landmark. The breeze,
however, was felt by the ship more than by us, and conse-
quently it was not long before, like an ignis fatuus, it again
disappeared. It must have been now considerably past mid-
night, and all hands were completely exhausted. We were
far both from Dominica and Oatin, but, though very dark,
we could see the little island of San Pedro looming up at no
great distance. Though its shores are bold and inhospitable,
we resolved to try what shelter it would afford, and after some
two hours' labour we discovered a little cove where we found
anchorage for our grapnel, and though the waves broke in
boiling foam on the precipitous cliffs, we were so completely
worn out with fatigue that we all at once sunk to sleep.

With daylight we awoke, stiff and wet, either from the
spray or rain that had fallen on us during the night. We
now found that the little roast pig had been a most opportune
present. A jack-knife soon divided him into equal portions,
which we quickly disposed of. With freshened energies we

RESOLUTION BAT. 87

withdrew from our precarious position, and on rounding the
first point, saw the vessel once again near the Straits of
Oatin. An hour or two's sail brought us alongside, to the
astonishment of those on board, who expected our approach
from the land side, as they supposed we had been all night in
Ta Ana Bay, into which they had seen us enter, but from
which they had not perceived our exit — at least, such was
the captain's excuse for not attending to his appointment

Notwithstanding our repulse from Resolution Bay, the
glimpse I had had of it made me anxious to see more of the
island of Oatin, and I ordered our course in that direction.
Again we stood through beautiful passages between these
picturesque islands, and about mid-day entered the bay, on
this occasion with a fair wind. Cook's Resolution Bay —
where a number of ships of any burthen may float in
tolerable security, requiring, however, owing to the frequent
gusts and sudden squalls, good ground tackle — is quite as
beautiful as that of Nukaheva. The island, now almost de-
populated by the wars of the natives, many of whom have
been driven from it by the present king, affords facilities for
cultivation equal, in proportion to its extent, to those of
any of the group. The old French fort to the right, and in
front some French buildings of wood, now evacuated, together
with a few native huts, are all that remain of the settlement.

We had scarcely come to anchor when we were visited by
the king, in a whale boat rowed by four white men. Like
other old chiefs, his body was entirely black with tattooing.
On conversing with him, I found he spoke very tolerable
English, and a little French. He informed me he had been
to London, having visited England in his youth, as a sailor,
as well as some parts of America. His travels, however, do
not seem to have elevated his moral character, for he is said
to be exceedingly- avaricious, tyrannical, and ambitious to
make himself master of the whole island.

38 A "beach-comer."

We landed on the left side of the bay, on a platform of
rock that forms an excellent natural pier, and proceeded at
once to the house of the king, to which we had been invited.
We found that His Majesty occupied one of the French
buildings, now falling to decay, in a room in the upper part
of which, furnished with table and benches, a bottle of brandy,
with glasses, was laid before us, the king himself proposing

our health and prosperity to the voyage. Dr. ft , who had

subsequently a private audience with him, informed me that
he was a member of the masonic order, strange though it may
seem that this society should extend to a place so savage
and remote.

All the present inhabitants of this island might be sustained
in one of its valleys, while in the other available parts could
be grown excellent crops of sugar, coffee, cotton, or other
tropical products. As there was no business to be done
here, and I was anxious to gain Hana-ma-Nu Bay, in
Dominica, where I understood there was a quantity of
sandal wood ready for shipment, before nightfall we weighed
anchor. The king, who had come on board with us for some
present in acknowledgment of his hospitality on shore, was
on the point of taking his departure, when one of his crew,
an Englishman, came aft and begged the captain to take
him from the island, as he was living in a miserable state, "a
complete slave to this black nigger," as he most irreverently
called the king, "and in momentary fear of his life."
The captain refused. These " be&ch-comers/' he said, " were
a bad lot, and the first to turn against you, no matter how
much they were indebted to your kindness/ 1 I, however,
interceded for the man, as I was sorry to see a countryman
in such a position; and after ransoming him by a small pay-
ment of 10$ to the king, he was shipped on the articles under
the appellation of " Joe." How far the captain's words were
true, subsequent events will prove.

TtlVAL POTENTATES. 39

We arrived in Hana-ma-Nu Bay at an eventful moment,
just on the termination, namely, of a three days' battle, in
which not a single life had been lost, though much powder
had been expended, the combatants taking care to keep out
of range of the balls, many marks of which we saw on the
bread-fruit and palm trees. In this bay there were two claim-
ants to the dignity of chief. One of them was a man who,
having bqen driven from his native valley for his insubor-
dinate conduct, had some years ago taken refuge at this place,
where he was subsequently joined by several kindred spirits.
The king, an imbecile old man, with little authority amongst
his own people, had not resolution enough to expel his un-
welcome visitor, notwithstanding that he had soon given evi-
dence of his intriguing character and ambitious designs.
Being a man of great prowess, he soon found admirers in
the valley of refuge, supported by whom he laid claim to the
sovereignty of the bay, and demanded dues from the ship-
ping that occasionally visited it. It was between him and
the weak old king that the battle of which I have spoken
was fought. He had thrown up some stone defences, which
the king's party, though much more numerous, were afraid
to attack, whilst, on the other hand, his men feared to leave
their shelter to proceed up the valley against a much superior
force, hid in a dense cover. An armistice had, however, just
been concluded, by which the bay was for the time divided
between these rivals; but, in all probability, the next en-
gagement would place the ^usurper in possession of the sove-
reignty of the whole bay and valley.

We had not long cast anchor before the rival potentates
were on board. The decrepit old king, who wore a red
blanket, and had a pretty pet bird, which he frequently
caressed, was evidently ill at ease in the presence of his ad-
versary. The latter, a man of Herculean frame, naked, ex-
cept for the maro, stared his opponent in the face, and made

40 OTO HANA.

no secret of his contempt — laughing and sneering at every-
thing he said or did. As we found that it was the parties up
the bay with whom we had to trade, we shifted our vessel to
the side claimed by them, to the great indignation of the
giant chief, on whose side we had anchored. A few presents,
however, appeased his wounded dignity.

We at once commenced to take in sandal wood, of which
there was a quantity already prepared, and a much greater
quantity in the mountains, which, dreading an ambush from
some of the hostile parties, no one on either side would ven-
ture to go in search of — treaties being observed here only as
long as they are found convenient. I, therefore, resolved to
proceed inland to see whether an accommodation might not
be effected by which we could secure it. I also learned
that there was a considerable quantity collected in Ta Ana,
on the opposite side of the island, where we had already
called, and in Oto Hana, near it, which we had not visited,
as the natives were represented as being particularly savage.
I determined, therefore, while on my trip into the mountains,
to descend on the opposite side, and learn whether it would
be worth while again to take the ship round. A Peruvian,
who had lived for many years on different parts of this island,
agreed to act as my guide and interpreter. When the na-
tives learned that I was about to undertake the journey, they
gathered in numbers around me, beseeching me not to venture
on it, as the Ota Hanians would surely kill us all.

Our road lay up the valley, for some three miles, princi-
pally through the now dry bed of a river, filled with huge
boulders, which told of the power of the torrents that some-
times washed through it. Though the houses of the natives
are generally situated near the beach, at the upper end of
this valley, on a little knoll, surrounded by groves of bread
fruit and bananas, was a neat cottage and garden, belonging
to a white man,, named George, on whom we called. Here

AN IEISH SETTLER. 41

he lived with his native wife and children, secluded from the
world, and apparently happy. On entering the garden, to
my surprise, I found a decently clad man working amongst
the pine-apples. He invited us into his house, and placed
before us ripe fruits, with the ever-ready pipes and tobacco.
As he had little the appearance of that class of runaway
sailors common amongst the islands, I asked him how he
came to isolate himself in that retired spot. He told me
he was a native of Ireland, had emigrated to America, and not
being successful there, had left it in disgust, shipping, as a
raw hand, on board a whale ship. Such a life was naturally
uncongenial to him, and, on arriving at this bay, he had
requested the captain to put him on shore, with his chest.
Though the natives, of course, at first stole most of his
things, he soon got on a good footing with them, and took
to himself a wife, with whose family he lived some time.
By cultivating some potatoes and fruits, which he sold to
the ships that occasionally visited the place, he was enabled
to purchase the piece of ground on which he now lived. I
expressed my astonishment that he had not come down to
the vessel, as white men invariably do. He said that at
first he had gone on board every vessel that arrived, but being
apparently looked on with suspicion by the officers and crew,
he never went now unless he had the produce of his ground to
barter. "But/' added he, with his native blarney, "had
I knowed that I should have had the pleasure of meeting
so agreeable a gentleman as yourself, I should certainly have
been there before this/'

Having finished our light repast, and knocked the ashes
out of our pipes, we prepared to resume our journey, and
George, as our host was called, consented to accompany us.
Nearly opposite his place, we began' to ascend the cliffs, by
what was called a path, scrambling at first among the huge
boulders that for ages had been tumbling from the heights

42 THE HEIB-PRESTJMFTIVE OF OATIN.

above. We soon reached the dense wood that springs out
from the precipitous mountain-side, and, by aid of the
branches, raised ourselves from point to point, occasionally
getting a foot-hold in clefts of the rocks, or clinging to tufts
of grass. Our path then lay over the face of one of the
highest cliffs in the island, in some places quite perpendicu-
lar, where roots of trees, or holes worn in the rocks, were the
only holding ground.

Leaving the others at the first hut we came to, with in-
structions to await our return, the Peruvian and I pushed
forward about two miles farther down the valley, passing
through groves of cocoa-nut trees, and scrambling over masses
of the fallen fruit decaying on the ground, which might be con-
verted to valuable account. With the cocoa-nut, the banana,
the taro, and other trees, the natives must have abundance of
the necessaries of life. The first house we arrived at was
the residence of a young chief, a friend of my guide, who
gave us a hearty welcome, and soon laid' before us an ample
provision offish, fowl, and roasted bread fruit — a most accept-
able supper for wearied travellers. In conversation with our
present host, I found that he was the legitimate heir-pre-
sumptive of Oatin (his father the king, with his family, having
been driven off to Dominica by the present usurper) . He had
recently taken to himself a young and beautiful wife, who,
according to the usual liberal hospitality of the Marquesans
to illwtrwu* stranger*, was placed at my disposal.

The following morning, though stiff with the previous day's
travel, we resumed our journey to the valley of " Ota Hana u
(the Yale of Spirits), the scene of many wild legends. Our
route lay near the coast, over hills, for the greater part des-
titute of trees, but covered with a luxuriant verdure. Occa-
sionally we passed through shady glens, each with its pleasant
brook, or pushed our way over extensive plots covered with
wild pine-apples, whose rich fruit formed but a poor salve to

A MARQUESAN BEAUTY. 43

our wounded limbs, torn by their jagged leaves. Through-
out the day the sun had been oppressively hot, and we
were completely worn out when we reached the first village,
delightfully situated beneath the shade of an extensive
bread-fruit grove, near the margin of a wide stream. The
natives are more dreaded than those of any other part of the
island, and the wildest legends that are told have reference
to them. Our arrival produced the greatest excitement.
Crowds assembled around the hut where I lay on some
mats that had been promptly spread for me, and refreshed
myself with a cooling draught of cocoa-nut water. I was
too much fatigued to take any part in the conversation,
and allowed my guide, whom the people greeted as an old
acquaintance, to have it all to himself.

The Peruvian, seeing me so exhausted, begged me not
to proceed, as he said I was worn out, a thing which I
would not by any means admit, but, as soon as I had
obtained some rest, rose to resume our journey. We were
followed by a crowd of the villagers, among whom was a
young damsel, whose curiosity never seemed satisfied, and
whose volubility of speech was only equalled by her boisterous
peals of laughter at the jokes of our merry guide. This girl
was celebrated as a beauty, but at the present time her face
was so disfigured by some green pigment with which it was
smeared that it was difficult to distinguish a single feature of
it. When this pigment, which is worn for a week or two, is
washed off, the skin appears much fairer, a circumstance
which may in some measure account for the fact that the
females of the Marquesas are of lighter complexion than
those of the South Seas generally.

The sun continuing to pour its vertical rays on our
path, my head ached violently, and I was in a fever. My
limbs too began to swell before we arrived at the little
harbour of " Vai Mate " (Dead Water, as the native name

44 A "wise woman."

implies), where the shelter is so complete that a ripple is
seldom seen on its land-locked waters, and in any weather
vessels may lie with the utmost security. I felt so unwell,
however, that I could not then enjoy the beautiful scene, and
making my way to one of the first houses in the village, I
threw myself on the mats. The place was of course soon
crowded with visitors, who manifested the greatest sympathy
when they heard I was sick. Fruit was offered in abundance,
and some even hurried off to a distant part of the valley to
fetch a wise woman, skilled in the healing art. On her arri-
val, after giving me something to drink, she commenced
rubbing, pressing, and pinching me, proceeding from the feet
upwards, and accompanying her actions by a kind of wild song
or chant. Whether it was owing to her skill or not, I cannot
say, but certainly the fever speedily abated, my head ceased
to ache, the swelling and pain of my limbs disappeared, and I
was soon enabled to go out to look after business.

I was more pleased with this spot than with any I had
visited on the Marquesas, and if the natives were a little
more civilised it would be, in many respects, the most eligible
point for a settlement. The valleys, which are broader and
more capable of cultivation, produce more fruits than the in-
habitants can consume ; there is abundance of water power
and pasturage land, without ascending into the mountains,
and the tranquil little cove of the " Dead Waters " would
afford perfect shelter to the tiniest craft.

We had left Ta Ana by daylight, and as it was now late
in the afternoon, and we had to return that night, it was
time to depart. The sun, fortunately, was not so hot as in
the forenoon, and I did not suffer so much from fatigue in
consequence.

On our return to the young chiefs house at Ta Ana, we
found preparations of an unusual nature had been made;
lots of taro, bananas, and bread fruit, and above all a nice

SUSPICIOUS OCCURRENCE. 45

little pig, being ready for the oven. The oven is prepared by
heating stones on a fire of wood. When the stones are suffi-
ciently hot, the articles to be cooked are placed amongst
them, well wrapped up in the broad leaf of the banana, the
whole covered with earth, and after an hour or two they are
taken out, delightfully cooked. Hunger, I dare say, gene-
rally added a good zest to my appetite whilst travelling
amongst these people, but I always thought the food cooked
in this way superior to that done in the most approved
French style.

The following morning, much refreshed, we started back
to Hana-ma-Nu, where we arrived without accident or ad-
venture. On proceeding down the valley, however, I soon
discovered that something was wrong, for in passing some of
the cottages, the usual salutation, " ca anha," was wanting,
and in going through some rough ground ahead of my com-
panions, where the forest formed a deep shade, three men
approached me with anything but a friendly aspect. J halted
and drew my pistol from its rest, George making his appear-
ance at the same time. Seeing I was prepared for them,
the men became officiously kind, declaring that they had
supposed me a runaway sailor, whom, in expectation of the
usual reward, they had intended to seize, an explanation
which I did not believe, as a stranger of only a day's resi-
dence is known by all the natives of the valley in which he
may sojourn.

On entering George's cottage, we found a solution of this
strange state of things. The day I left the bay, the inter-
preter, in company with Dr. R , had brought a quantity of

things on shore to trade with, and to pay for articles already
purchased. In the course of proceedings, he gave offence
to a chief of the savage crowd, whose cupidity only wanted
an excuse for plunder, and they became so troublesome that
it was deemed advisable to remove the goods towards the

46 THREATENING DEMONSTRATION.

beach. Whilst the interpreter was in the act of stooping to
pack np some of them, a native raised a huge mass of rock
above his head, to dash his brains out, an act of violence
which was only prevented by the sight of the Doctor's revolver,
which made the whole crowd fall back, permitting our party
to reach the beach and make the usual signal for the boat.
The savages were thus deterred for the moment from further
demonstrations, but as their numbers increased they became
bolder, the Doctor's undaunted front alone keeping them in
check till the boat was reached, though even then the safety of
our party was not assured, as the mate, alarmed at the threat-
ening appearance of the islanders, feared to land. Old Bill,
however, with the courage of a true British tar, jumped into
the water and pushed for shore ; the rest of the crew, with a
few more strokes of the oar, beaching the boat, receiving
the whole party on board, and taking them back in safety to
the vessel. This was the state of matters when I arrived
alone at the beach, no intercourse having been held since
the previous day between the vessel and the natives; and I
had already fired three shots' from my revolver before a
volunteer crew could be found to man the boat for shore, to
take me and my companions on board.

47

CHAPTER III.

Island of Roahuga — Annoying Incident — Position of the Island of
Tibrones — The Dangerous or Low Archipelago — Dean's Island
— Coral Reefs and Lagoons — Tahiti — The Reefs and Lagoons
around the Island — Discovery of Tahiti — Missionary Operations
— Mr. Pritchard — The French Protectorate — Town and Har-
bour of Papeete — French Institutions — Houses of Europeans and
Natives — Native Costumes — The Promenade — Tattoo— Visit to
Queen Pomare — Pomare Tame, the King Consort — Population
of Tahiti — Productions of the Island — Departure from Tahiti
— The Society and Georgian Islands — Huahine — Unsuccessful
Attempt of the French to seize the Island — The Settlement —
Contention between my Boatmen — Night in a Native Hut —
The Captain's Party on Board — Family of a Native Teacher —
Commotion in the Island.

WIEN night set in we raised the anchor, and taking
advantage of the earliest land breeze, dismissed our
hostages, and, clearing to sea, stood over to the island of
Roahuga, there, according to agreement, to leave our in-
terpreter and his companion. The following morning we
were off that island, which is thinly populated, and here we
landed our friends, in a snug little cove where there were no
native inhabitants, save the wives of the whites and a few
attendants. These settlers had cleared a space for the
culture of vegetables to supply such whale ships as might
call at their port; and this, together with the raising of
hogs and poultry, and the spontaneous productions of the
island, afforded them a comfortable subsistence.

It was during our passage between these islands that an

48 the doctor's nroiscRKTioy.

incident occurred to which we may possibly ascribe, in a

great measure, the subsequent loss of the vessel. Dr. R ,

whose amiable qualities were not by any means more fully
developed by some quarrels he had had with me, sitting up
late one evening, commanded Juan, in no very gentle terms,
to prepare something for him in the galley. Juan urged
that as it was after hours his fire was out, and demurred at
being set to work again ; whereat the Doctor, who had taken
an antipathy to the boy, after some coarse language, knocked
him down. The captain, who had already retired to his
cabin, now interposed, saying, very properly, that he would
not allow any one to interfere with his crew, and that if they
did wrong it was his business to correct them. The Doctor
replied he was quite able to correct them himself, and
would strike any man on board, from the captain to the
cook, who was insolent to him. The captain declared this
an act of mutiny, and, going on deck, ordered the vessel
hard up for Tahiti, stating, on his return to the cabin, that
he would at once sell her there, she being, according to her
papers, his property.

I had, some time before, found out the character of the
man in whose power I was placed, and had dreaded falling
into the position in which the Doctor's indiscretion had now
placed me. All the people on board were the captain's crea-
tures, except the Doctor and myself, and between us there
was, unfortunately, no unity at the time. My only hope of
saving the vessel, therefore, was in talking the captain over
to proper conduct, in which, with much difficulty, I at
length succeeded. I hinted at the false position in which
he stood as owner, making himself liable to prosecution on
our return; and after giving him a pledge that I should
never attempt any proceedings against him, he consented to
put the vessel again on her course, on the Doctor apologizing
to him. Things now seemed to bear a smoother aspect;

LOW ARCHIPELAGO. 49

but it was evident from the captain's subsequent behaviour,
that he repented not having used his opportunity to rob us,
and I felt the advantage he had gained by the Doctor's
foolish conduct.

Coasting round the southern end of Roahuga, we steered
our coarse to Tahiti, and, with a gentle S.E. trade- wind
abeam, glided noiselessly upon a tranquil sea without an
object to disturb the monotony. The second day we sailed over
the spot laid down in the chart as the island of " Tibrones,"
but no land was visible. This island is supposed to have
been improperly laid down in the charts to the south,
instead of north, of the Marquesas, as I am informed of the
existence of one to the north not marked in any chart, which,
from the multitude of sharks around it, whence its Spanish
name of " Tibrones," is probably the same. On the third
night, by the light of the star-spangled heavens, we could
discern, away to windward, a long, low line of coast, just
peeping above the waves. This proved to be Vaterlands,
the most northerly and first of the " Dangerous " or « Low "
Archipelago, and woe betide the unhappy craft that ap-
proaches the shores of these islands without a good look-out,
as on a dark night they are scarcely to be seen till the vessel
is already among the breakers of their extensive reefs. The
highest part of the " sand-heaps," as they are commonly
called by sailors, is not generally more than from five to
twenty feet above the level of the sea.

The following morning we sighted the Kuric chain to lar-
board ; at least the tops of its trees were seen fringing the
horizon. We bore down on Dean's Island, the most extensive
of the " Poa Motos," or Dangerous Archipelago, nearly 200
miles in circuit. As ft was the first of these coral islands I
had distinctly seen, when we approached close to its shores
I went aloft to observe its formation. From the depths of
ocean rises perpendicularly a great coral wall of from a quarter

50 dean's island.

of a mile to a mile in breadth, extending some 200 miles in
an irregular circuit, its flat top terminating with low water
mark. Running along, about midway on this wall, boulders
torn from the mass by the action of the sea, sand, and coral
debris, dead shells, and wreck, accumulated through ages,
form little islets of some quarter of a mile in breadth, and
varyidg from less than that to several miles in length,
divided from each othei* where the current runs stronger
across the reef. These intervening spaces can generally be
forded, especially at low water, though deep holes and
gullies frequently present themselves, and occasionally even
channels of sufficient width to permit ships of the largest
burthen to enter the lagoon within the barrier. Safely
anchored in these still waters, the tempest-torn bark finds
shelter during the roughest gales. Most of these islets pre-
sent one continuous grove of cocoa-nut trees, with their
nodding plumes and clusters of fruit interspersed with the
pandanas and such other hardy plants as can exist on such
an arid soil. The various fruits and esculents that grow
spontaneously on the lovely volcanic islands of the Pacific
are not here to be met with, nor, except on a very few of
the islets, can any of them be cultivated.

We coasted along the shores of Dean's Island for some
time without apparently having been observed by the
inhabitants. * The island indeed is but thinly populated, and
we saw only two or three houses, and about as many canoes
on the lagoon side. It seemed a spot where one could be
content to pass his days, apart from the wear and tear of
life ; but " distance Jends enchantment to the view/' and
I had little idea then how soon I should have an opportunity
of testing such an existence. The second morning following,
though still some sixty miles from Tahiti, the cry of " Land
ho, ahead ! w from aloft, told us that the " Gem of the Ocean/'
as it has been called, was sighted. One or two spear points

TAHITI. 51

just peeping above the horizon were all that at first could be
seen ; but soon the lower lands also began to appear, and by
noon Tahiti with its varied outline had risen fully to our
view.

Tahiti was, no doubt, formerly two islands, though united
by an isthmus connecting Tahiti proper, the larger, with
Tairahu, the smaller peninsula. Tahiti now forms an island
some thirty-five miles long by twenty-five broad. It is of
volcanic construction, and is thrown up into numerous
pinnacles, the loftiest of which is about 12,250 feet high.
From the peaks in the centre spread narrow-ridged spurs
towards the sea, for the most part covered with evergreens,
and occasionally terminating in bold, wall-like precipices,
over which the mountain rivulets tumble in miniature
cascades. Many of these little rivers, uniting as they
approach the sea, water the lovely valleys, and cross the
narrow strip of plain that lies between the hills and the ocean,
wearing a bed in the coral reef that fringes the shores of
Tahiti (or rather the fresh-water preventing the growth of the
coral) and dropping into the lagoon. This lagoon or channel
between the fringe and barrier reefs almost encircles the
island, and a great part of it is navigable for vessels of con-
siderable burthen ; the outer, or barrier reef, on which the
surge of the Pacific lashes in impotent fury, having many
openings, through which shipping may pass securely to the
safe and commodious harbours within, ten of which have
good anchorage for vessels of any size, the smaller
ones being chiefly used by the fruiting craft, that put into
them for oranges, which are in season here for nine months
in the year, and constitute now the chief product and trade
of Tahiti. California derives its supply of this article from
the island, and has several schooners in the trade.

We approached the land off Point Venus, celebrated as
the camping ground of Captain Cook when he first landed in

k21

52 MISSIONARY LABOURS.

Matavai Bay, and made these lovely islands interesting
to Europeans by his glowing description of them. His
memory is still revered by the natives. Cook, however was
not the first visitor, as is often erroneously supposed. The
honour of the discovery rests with the Spanish navigator,
Pedro Fernandez de Gueros, who touched at the islands as
early as 1605, though little was known of them till Wallace,
by whom they were supposed to be a new discovery, visited
them in 1767. During his stay the thievish propensities of
the natives led to a collision between the navigators and the
islanders, which, notwithstanding the immense superiority
in numbers of the latter, ended of course, in their defeat, and
inspired them with a wholesome dread of Europeans, that was
beneficial to their subsequent visitors, Bougainville and Cook.

The first missionaries arrived in 1797, by the Buff, from
England, bringing with them several artisans, whose works
in wood and iron created the utmost astonishment amongst
the unsophisticated natives. Their missionary labours, how-
ever, met with so little success, that on the visit of the
Nautilus, the majority of them left for Australia, and
the remainder, with one exception, shortly after followed
to the same place. This was during an insurrection,
which drove King Pomare from Tahiti to the neighbouring
island of Morea, where the zeal of the remaining missionary
was rewarded by the conversion of the king in 1812.
From this period the cause progressed rapidly, and the
victory of Pomare in a great battle gained over his refrac-
tory subjects, being ascribed to his change in religion, the
natives were easily induced to embrace Christianity, and
to yield to the control of the missionaries, not only in Tahiti,
but in the neighbouring islands, which acknowledged the
supremacy of Pomare.

From this time till the landing of the French, the mis-
sionary power may be said to have been supreme.

WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. 53

Mr. Pritchard, a missionary, became British consul, and
from the two positions was the most influential man in
the island with the queen and her people, in whom he felt
the warmest interest. An opposition party, however, was
formed against him, which had the sympathy of M. Mo'ren-
haut, the consul for France. That gentleman, observing
the immense influence the missionaries possessed over the
people, thought it might be to the advantage of France to
have similar assistance, and some French missionaries were
accordingly invited to Tahiti; but on their arrival they
wore rudely expelled from its shores by the natives, with
the sanction, if not by the instigation, of their spiritual
rulers. The French fleet, therefore, sailed into the harbour
shortly afterwards, and imposed a fine on Tahiti, to an
amount that Pomare and her government, as the commander
well knew, could not raise. The queen, dreading the con-
sequences that might ensue, was induced to place her king-
dom under the protectorate of France. Mr. Pritchard in-
dignantly protested against these proceedings, but as his
day of power was now passed away, he struck the English
flag and returned to England, as it was supposed, to induce
the British government to take up the cause of the poor
Tahitians.

Meanwhile, to the astonishment of all Europe, these
gentle islanders commenced that celebrated struggle com-
monly called the war of independence, in which for a long
time, though almost destitute of arms, they bade defiance to
the power of France; the English residents and mission-
aries, without much ground, I am sorry to say, holding out
false promises to them of help from the British government.
The capture of " Faa Tana," the mountain fortress of the
Tahitians, through the treachery of some of their own chiefs,
put an end to the war, and the people are now better go-
verned than they ever were before, enjoying more security in

54 Appearance of the island.

their possessions than under their own queen, who, when
she had power, was an avaricious tyrant, dispossessing her
subjects of their property at her caprice. Pomare still re-
tains the rank of queen, with a semblance of power, and a
revenue from the French government of 5000$ per annum.

The French are now firmly settled as a protectorate go-
vernment, apparently to the entire satisfaction of the natives.
The British missionaries, however, whom the French offered
to place under salaries, if they would disconnect themselves
from the London society, and place themselves under the
French laws, with two exceptions, indignantly refused, and
retired to other islands of the Pacific. Such is a brief history
of Tahiti, from the first landing of the whites till the pre-
sent time.

From Point Venus, coasting along under easy sail, as close
to shore as safety would permit, we could distinctly see the
houses, shaded by luxuriant groves of orange-trees, bread-
fruit, or palms. Amongst the most conspicuous of these
was one of some extent, said to be the summer residence of
the queen. A few miles further to the eastward is the en-
trance to Tannoa harbour, a safe and commodious haven.
At the head of the valley is the crest of hills called — from
the form which they assume — the Diadem. There is a good
passage from this, inside the barrier reef, for ships of any
size, down to Papeete. It is narrow, but the wind blowing
generally dead aft, with a good look-out it is perfectly safe,
and is commonly used instead of the Papeete entrance.
There are two French pilots, authorized by the government,
who are usually attentive. On this occasion, however, as
we remained some time opposite Tannoa unobserved, we
steered towards Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, and in half
an hour were off the passage. Some distance out to sea one
is disappointed with the appearance of this place. The hills
immediately behind the town are barren, and at this season

TAPEETE. 55

(nearly midsummer) the red sterile soil is covered with
scanty herbage, or dwarf shrubbery, though the tall peaks
in the background, that rise into the clouds, are clad with
flourishing trees and shrubs. Approaching closer to the
white line of breakers, the shipping is visible, resting on the
still waters of the harbour, With its little Moto, or coral
island of palm-trees, in the centre. Stretching along the
semicircular shores of the bay, and back into the plain, are
seen the white houses of the town, not arranged in streets,
but detached from each other, and shaded by evergreen
trees and flowering shrubs, amongst which the bright
hibiscus, the stately ito, the palm, the sweet-scented native
teory, the shady bread-fruit, and the fragrant orange, are
most conspicuous.

As we neared the reef the wind fell, when the pilot came
on board and took us out to sea, informing us that we could
not enter that night. The following morning being Sunday,
we beat again up to Tannoa, and passing down through the
reef channel, anchored in Papeete harbour, where, as at the
Marquesas, we were boarded by the French authorities.
Except for spirits and arms, Papeete is a free port. The
merchants on shore pay a tax according to the extent of
their business, and a tax of residence. The natives pay a
poll tax, for which they can compound by a short term of
labour. The* revenue thus raised is not sufficient to defray the
expenses of governor and suite, a military establishment, and
well regulated police. These last, however, may be self-sup-
porting from the fines at the Calaboose. The streets are
lighted and kept in good repair ; principally by those unable
to pay the fines imposed by the police.

In so fertile a spot as Tahiti, the introduction in an ame-
liorated form of the system adopted by the Dutch in Java,
obliging the natives to cultivate and produce annually a
certain quantity of coffee, sugar, cotton, tobacco, or other

56 HOUSES OF EUROPEANS.

produce, might prove beneficial, compelling them to live by
honest labour rather than by the prostitution of their wives,
daughters, and sisters, as they so long have been in the
habit of doing. On the other hand, this system might in-
duce them to sell their lands to the whites at moderate
prices; in which case, when they could no longer pluck the
fruit from the trees, they would be obliged to work for an
existence, the government regulating the price of labour,
and enforcing all contracts. The strong prejudice against
selling their lands to whites, instilled into them by former
missionaries, is fast declining, and the title of a purchase once
effected, and registered in the French courts, would be secure.
We were scarcely at anchor before I was visited by my
friend H., one of the principal merchants of Tahiti. I had
been intimate with him in California, where he had also a
place of business. With his usual hospitality he insisted on
my making his house my home during my stay at the port ;
and, as it was a most agreeable change from shipboard, I
gladly availed myself of his kindness. The house was a large
two-story building, erected in the Spanish style, with glass
doors opening on the verandahs, which were shaded by the
foliage of mulberry trees, through the rustling leaves of
which a cool air was constantly passing into the spacious
rooms, neatly furnished in the European style. Most of
the houses in Tahiti, however, consist of only one story, and
some are built of stone or plaster instead of wood. The
principal street, and the business part of the town, faces the
bay, forming a semicircle of about a mile in length, and
terminating at the east end in the government dock and
ship-yard (where there is a patent slip and every facility for
repairing vessels), and on the west extending to the fort,
mounting some ten guns, which commands the entrance to
the harbour. From one of these points to the other a line of
earth ramparts extends round the back of the town, erected

NATIVE HOUSES, 57

by the French, but now falling to decay. A number of
streets run back towards the ramparts, only partially built,
crossing the Broom Road, the great leading thoroughfare.
This road is part of a route originally made by the mis-
sionaries round the island, and now much improved by the
French, forming a splendid drive for some distance on either
side of the town.

The houses of the natives are generally in the outskirts,
many of them lost to view in thickets of guava trees.
Although some of them are built on the European model,
the greater number adhere to the native fashion, which is
admirably suited to the climate. An elliptical row of boran
poles (a very light, straight, and white wood), about five feet
high, are fastened in the ground and attached to a frame
from which the rafters rise about six feet to the centre beam,
supported by two uprights, and thatched with pandana leaves ;
the poles of the wall being far enough apart to permit of a
free current of air. Bedsteads, and a few Chinese trunks,
constitute the principal furniture, and the floor is strewn with
grass, on which mats are placed for sitting a la Turque.
The natives are extremely indolent, and since their original
games and dances, which were very licentious, have been
abolished by the missionaries, they have few amusements
except cards, of which they are passionately fond, spending
whole days over them and gambling away not only all their
money but even their clothes. Wine or beer is sometimes
introduced, but ardent spirits are prohibited. A little cigar
or cigarito, made from a leaf of manufactured tobacco
scorched over a flame and rolled in a piece of banana leaf, is
in constant use. The maker takes two long pulls, till his or
her cheeks are distended with the smoke, which is passed out
by the nostrils, and the cigarito is then handed to the next
person, and so on till it is expended, when another is made
and passed round in the same manner.

58 COSTUME.

About sunset all the natives, and indeed most of the resi-
dents, resort to the beach for a grand promenade, and this
is the time to see the beauties of Tahiti, they being then
dressed in their gala costume, which is exceedingly pic-
turesque. The old chip bonnets, stuck so unbecomingly on
short-cropped heads, and ridiculous attempts at European
dresses, have passed away, and a much more becoming and
suitable costume is adopted. The dress of the men consists
merely of a white or fancy-coloured shirt, with a pariew of
scarlet or some other bright-coloured calico of a large pattern,
which is swathed round the waist, tucked in over the shirt,
and descends to the ankle. On the head a neat straw or
Panama hat, with black ribbon, is jauntily placed, decorated
sometimes with a wreath of flowers. The white flower of the
Cape jessamine is generally stuck into holes in their ears,
which are also occasionally adorned with gold earrings of a
crescent shape. The girls, also, though often wearing a
Panama hat with flowers, are frequently seen without it,
their beautiful glossy hair, of which they take great care,
falling in curls, in flowing tresses, or in long plaits down their
backs, with wreaths of flowers tastefully arranged amongst
it, while garlands of aromatic leaves and flowers are thrown
over their shoulders. Their dress, generally of some bright
pink or blue colour, is fastened at the neck and flows loosely
to their feet, the everlasting pariew beneath completing their
attire ; they rarely wear shoes.

The time of my arrival was peculiarly propitious for seeing
the famed beauties of Tahiti, for all the inhabitants of the
island, as well as of some of the neighbouring ones, were con-
gregating at Papeete. In anticipation of a line of steamers
to run between San Francisco and Sydney, with Papeete as
a calling point, the government were constructing extensive
warehouses, to which the natives were called on to contribute
timber, thatching, &c. The following day crowds of people

EVENING PROMENADE, 59

thronged the roads to Papeete, and the bay was filled with
boats, which, as they entered the passage, generally called
at the little island in the centre, where the damsels dressed
and decked themselves for the festival. Great rafts occa-
sionally floated through the passages between the reefs, on
which, beneath awnings of leaves, groups of brilliantly clad
natives sat or reclined, singing at the top of their voices the
old quaint, quick airs of their country, accompanied by the
rattle of numerous drums (their national musical instrument),
which they beat with exact time, producing, in connexion
with the voice, stirring sounds that kept the party of
dancers in the centre in constant excitement. On this event-
ful occasion all restrictions were withdrawn, and native
dances and music were permitted as long as the public peace
was maintained. The Tahitians, at all times lively and of a
contented disposition, seemed now, as they ran about, joking,
laughing, and screaming with joy, to be in an ecstasy of
delight ; whilst great hogs, poultry, baskets of provisions, and
bunches of fruit were carried on poles towards the scene of
the coming feast, to which the governor was to contribute
wine ad libitum.

The promenade this evening was, of course, unusually
thronged. The soft eyes of the Tahitian nymphs were lighted
up with more than their customary fire, and their fine, grace-
ful figures had an air of greater abandon even than usual.
There was a rivalry of display between the maidens from the *
country and the city belles, many of whom, notwithstanding
their dark skins, were really beautiful. It is melancholy to
think, however, that in the whole assembly there was pro-
bably not one who was not ready to barter her charms for a
trifling present.

At eight o' clock the tattoo is beaten by a company of mili-
tary, who march through the principal streets, when the na-
tives are obliged to retire to their houses. Sentries are placed

60 VISIT TO QUEEN POMARK.

at leading points, and any of them found straying after that
hour are taken to the Calaboose. Quiet residents may, how-
ever, remain out as long as they please ; and natives in their
company are allowed to pass. After the tattoo any boats be-
longing to the shipping in the harbour can only leave from
the government wharf. These are under the eye of a sen-
tinel, and the law preserves peace and order when in danger
of being disturbed by drunken seamen. Strangers are often
indignant against the French for these restrictions : but they
are, on the whole, beneficial. The former regulation, with
regard to the natives, is merely the continuance of a law
established by missionaries generally throughout all the
islands over which they had control.

The second day after my arrival I went with my friend H.
to visit Queen Pomare. Passing through an avenue, at which
a sentinel was placed, we arrived at the palace, a large cottage*
shaped house, pleasantly situated at one end of a green lawn,
ornamented with trees and shrubs. We at once entered,
without ceremony, from the verandah into a large public
room, scantily furnished in European style, but abundantly
strewed with mats, instead of carpets, on which squatted
some women sewing. One pretty young girl, probably a
princess royal, with a fan, brushed away the obtrusive flies
from the face of a sleeping infant — a recent addition to the
royal family, who lay on some bright-coloured pillows on the
floor. The queen herself was seated on a sofa, but rose on
our entrance, and advanced to H., whom she shook warmly
by the hand, honouring me in the same manner on my being
introduced. She seemed a decent, motherly-looking woman,
of about forty-five years of age, with an expression of care
on her face— which was certainly not handsome, and had
little of that softness generally characteristic of the Tahitians.
Her dress, on this occasion, was of black satin, made in the
usual flowing style of the people. She displayed no orna-

GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. 61

meats, and had neither shoes nor stockings. I observed
on the wail a large oil painting in a gorgeous frame, repre-
senting her in a magnificent European dress, in which I
afterwards saw her — but I must confess not to advantage ;
for it seemed out of character, and she did not look at
all at ease in it. When she entered into conversation with
H., which she did in a lively, fluent style, her face was
seen to greater advantage, particularly when she smiled. I
subsequently met Pomare Tame, the king consort, at dinner
with H. He is a tall, handsome, noble-looking fellow, of a
decidedly jovial disposition, his principal characteristic being
a ready appreciation of the good things of this life in eating
and drinking. Their children (I should say her children)
were, most of them, handsome ; one of the boys — a lad of
perhaps twelve or fourteen years of age, clothed in a blue
jacket and white trousers — having a remarkably intelligent
and manly countenance. When I first met Pomare Tanie he
wore merely a black satin shirt and pariew ; but I saw him
on another occasion in a general's uniform of bright sky blue,
profusely embroidered with gold lace, and with large epaulets
on the shoulders. In the cocked hat and boots, which he
also wore, he did not appear at all at ease.

Adjoining the queen's grounds are those of the governor ;
the house much handsomer than that of Her Majesty. The
government buildings are generally substantial structures.
Besides a good and well-regulated public hospital, there is
also a private one kept by Dr. Johnston, one of the oldest
residents in the island, whose generous and amiable qualities
have made him deservedly popular, both among natives and
foreigners.

The population of Tahiti is now estimated at about 8000 ;
and, notwithstanding an influx from the " Poa Moto " islands,
the Harvey Group, and other places, it is decidedly declining.
The religion professed by the inhabitants is still the same as

62 TAHITIAN LIFE.

that taught by the English missionaries, native teachers
having taken the place of their former pastors. The French
government, with its usual liberality in these matters, does not
interfere with their religious observances, and the Catholic
priesthood have made but little progress. Schools are con-
tinued on the same principles as formerly; the natives
generally learning to read and write, with the addition of
a little knowledge of figures, beyond which their education
rarely extends. A small sheet is printed weekly for cir-
culation in the native language, as well as one in
French.

Owing to the extreme idleness of the inhabitants, the pro-
ductions of the island, in which many miles of the richest
land are allowed to lie waste, are not sufficient for its own
consumption. Fish, cattle, hogs, poultry, and fruits are not
only brought to market from the country, but are also im-
ported from the neighbouring islands, affording handsome
profits at Papeete. One small coffee plantation, indifferently
managed, yields a return sufficient to induce much more ex-
tensive operations in this article. The principal exports are
pearl shell, cocoa-nut oil, and some arrowroot, collected
throughout the islands of the South Pacific, in the various
small crafts of this port, and brought here for transhipment
to Europe. The wants of the numerous islands of the Pa-
cific are supplied from Tahiti, and many whale ships and
other vessels call here to re-fit.

A Tahitian life is rather monotonous, as there are no places
of public amusement. Cards and billiards, iudeed, are
favourite pastimes, and music is cultivated in private families.
Pleasant pic-nic parties to the numerous lovely spots in the
vicinity are occasionally got up, the favourite resort being the
picturesque waterfall at Faa Tana, where the scenery is beau-
tiful. The best view of the town and harbour is from Tele-
graph Hill, a fine background to it, and a point from which

DEPARTURE FROM PAPEETE. 63

the island of Morea, some fifteen miles distant, becomes a
striking feature in the scene.

During our stay, which extended only to a few days, I dis-
posed, at a good profit, of the stock procured at the Marque-
sas, had the vessel painted, and laid in some extra merchan-
dise, suitable for the " Harvey Group/* to which we were
bound.

Near to our berth in the harbour lay the Martha, a small
craft which had left California ten days after us, but, coming
direct, had arrived some fifteen days previous. This vessel
was owned and navigated by several young men, amateur
seamen, with whom I had been intimate in California. Mr.
Summers, with whom I had lived in the same house for some
time, I had a particular friendship for, and we spent much of
our time together here, along with Mr. Osborne, and other
old Californian friends. When we were ready for sea, I

bade adieu to my kind host H , and other friends in

Tahiti, whom I left with regret, believing that we might
never meet again: but with poor Summers and his com-
panions, whom I expected to see in about two months in San
Francisco, I only exchanged a passing good-bye, accompanied
with some chaffing about our respective vessels, and jeering
conjectures about who should be first in California. My
friends, who were all in fine health and spirits, were very
sanguine about the voyage, and as we raised our anchor, and
stood out to sea, they gave us a hearty cheer, the last I was
destined ever to hear of their manly voices. Poor fellows !
About a fortnight after we parted, they were cast away on
the dangerous reefs of the Tonga Islands, some miles from
shore, and every soul perished, a favourite dog being the
only living thing that survived the wreck and reached the
land.

We sailed from Papeete in company with a Dutch mer-
chantman, bound to Valparaiso, and a Californian clipper,

64 SOCIETY ISLANDS.

with passengers for Sydney, but, as our courses were in
different directions, we soon parted company, and rounding
the northern point of Morea, lost sight of Tahiti. Morea
presents a remarkable aspect, its outlines being very pic-
turesque and fantastic, more so even than those of Tahiti.
The island is, for the most part, mountainous, but it has
some excellent harbours. Its inhabitants have dwindled
down to a few hundreds.

As we were obliged to call at some of the Society Islands,
to take in cocoa-nuts as food for live stock, we decided on
calling at Huahine, the first in our course. Tahiti and
Morea are frequently laid down in charts as a portion of the
Society Islands, whereas they belong to the " Georgian
Group." The cluster to the westward, commencing with
Huahine, alone constitute the Society Islands.

After a sail of some hundred miles, we arrived, with a
fair wind, in front of the principal settlement, situated on
a narrow strip of flat land, at the extremity of a pleasant
bay of about a mile in extent, backed with mountains,
neither so high nor so precipitous as those of Tahiti, but
clothed with foliage to their tops. The placid beauty of the
scenery is much enhanced by the outer or barrier reef, and
by the numerous motos, or little islets, covered with cocoa-
nut groves, which in some places shut the ocean out from
sight, giving the lagoon within the appearance of an inland
lake. The light canoe, propelled by dark-skinned natives,
glides with noiseless motion over these calm waters, the
silence occasionally broken by the sweet voices of the soft-
eyed, flower-decked damsels, chanting hymns in the soft
Tahitian dialect, each taking her respective part.

Missionaries did not arrive here till after they had been for
some time established at Tahiti, but seem to have made more
progress, and have continued unceasingly in their labours
up to the present time. The only interruption was for a

HUAHINE. 65

short period after the French took Tahiti, when the invaders
made a descent with one or two vessels of war on Huahine,
opening a fire on the settlement, and driving the natives into
the interior, where, with a small force, they inconsiderately
followed them. The agile natives, hid in impenetrable
thickets, kept up a galling fire upon the French, retiring
after each discharge, and quickly bounding behind some well-
known bush, rock, or tree. After a fatal march of some dis-
tance inland, the French were compelled to begin a still
more disastrous retreat, since which time they have never
returned to Huahine, probably considering it not worth the
loss which its conquest would entail.

On approaching the harbour we took a pilot on board.
The entrance through the reef is a good one, and though the
wind was blowing out from the land, by hugging the larboard
reef, and standing across, there was room to work in. Our
captain, however, who had lately been increasing his pota-
tions, got nervous, and dropped anchor in the middle of the
passage, to the great amazement of those on shore acquainted
with the entrance. As the breeze continued and increased,
and there was no immediate chance of getting out of our
present position, I determined to land. The settlement con-
sists of perhaps a hundred habitations, scattered around the
bay, for the most part plastered and whitewashed cottages,
with verandahs, but with many native built huts interspersed.
The church, which is of stone, and the house of the king,
both erected on little promontories, are prominent objects.
The residence of the worthy missionary, Mr. Barfe, is plea-
santly situated on a rising ground, overlooking the village and
harbour ; a lovely spot for a residence.

On proceeding along the Broom Road I saw the children
bustling out of school, with all that hilarity habitual to
youngsters at home ; the girls in their usual loose dress, but
some of the lesser boys with merely a short shirt. Presently

F

66 CONDUCT OF THE CAPTAIN.

I met King Eramute himself, dressed in the usual white
shirt and scarlet pariew, with a basket of books and a
slate, for he attends regularly as a teacher in the schools.
He speaks a little English, and is apparently a mild, good-
natured young man, but rather deficient, I should fear, in
vigour, for the position he occupies.

I had anticipated that two days at most would be suffi-
cient to do any trading with the residents, but such was the
inertia of the whites settled here, that little was done
on the first day, and nothing on the second. The captain,
meanwhile, having got on board a favourite female friend,
with whom he had been intimate on former visits, every-
thing was neglected in the vessel. The next day the
wind had increased almost to a gale, and as a heavy swell
rolled through the passage, the ship jerked so severely on
the cable, not having enough out, that it finally parted, and
we were carried out to sea. On the third morning we again
approached the passage ; the captain, who had had an extra
allowance of Dutch courage, swearing that he would make
his rr Sooky n take the vessel in, and he actually made her
take the helm. I knew that the ruffian only wanted any
opposition to his orders on board, as an excuse for carrying
off the vessel to Tahiti, or elsewhere, to sell her. His pre-
sent conduct, however, was too much to bear, and I was
about to prevent it at any risk, when the mate — the only
one. of the crew who seemed to take an interest in the ship —
said he would look after it; and as the captain was evi-
dently unfit for the duty, he piloted us safely in.

The following day, procuring a canoe and a couple of
natives, I went round the island to the opposite extremity ;
and as we proceeded slowly, sometimes paddling and some-
times pulling, along the shoal waters of the lagoon (a native
standing on a board that projects over the stern for this
purpose), I had an excellent opportunity of seeing the island,

AN ALTERCATION. 67

which is indented with many snug little coves, where vessels
can lie securely.

The hills throughout, generally rising from the water's
edge, afford fewer spots for cultivation than those of Tahiti.
The precipitous bluffs, in some places fronting the sea,
are so clad with shrubs or creepers that they add little
boldness to the aspect of the scenery, which, though beautiful,
ia deficient in grandeur.

Huahine, like Tahiti, has at one time been two distinct
volcanic islands, the greater and lesser Huahine ; but these
are now united by a coral reef, at all times partially, but at
high tide completely, overflowed by water, permitting the
passage of canoes and boats to the opposite side. The pas-
sage, which in the centre widens to about half a mile in
extent, is rendered dangerous from the numerous coral
branches that rise near or above the surface. There are some
flat tracts around its margin, on which are one or two small
sugar plantations. As the cultivation of the cane, however,
receives but little attention, a spontaneous production being
generally preferred, the profits to the proprietors are not great.

While I was occupied in contemplating the scenery, my
attention was called to an altercation going on in an under
tone between my boatmen. When we were about the centre
of the lake, their voices, loud in contention, sounded strangely
out of harmony with the peaceful character of the scene. Sud-
denly Jim — a young man regularly employed by me, the other
being only engaged for the occasion — called out, ''Cap-
tain, you look out ; no good, Taata !" on which his oppo-
nent, glaring with rage, sprang on his companion, and seized
him by the throat. Hastening to the rescue, I at once
separated them, and with some difficulty flung the savage into
the water. Furious with rage, he hurled at us every epithet,
both in English and Tahitian, he could command ; while
Jim contented himself with exclaiming, in the vernacular,

p2

68 NIGHT IN A NATIVE HUT,

" Ere ! Ere ! oi uta, Taata me a ino I Taata fau fau \" &c.
" Go, go ashore ! you ruffian ! you abominable beast !"

From his explanation, when I inquired as to the cause
of their quarrel, I understood that the rascal had been pro-
posing to his comrade to rob me, a suggestion which had
excited the indignation of the latter, and ended in the quarrel
I had witnessed. Robbery, though of rare occurrence
on these islands, is occasionally perpetrated, chiefly on
drunken sailors wandering from the beach, who often
return with empty pockets.

The short twilight hadnow faded away, and the stars, though
they shone brilliantly, were not sufficient to guard us against
the rocks and shoals of the intricate channel. Jim, therefore,
finding that, without assistance, he made but slow progress,
having to jump out every few minutes to push the canoe off
some shoal, finally proposed that we should put ashore and
find a place to rest for the night " Ah ! no good here; too
big stoney, by, by, canoe broke ; more good go 'shore ; bery
good eak shicken, man ashore he cook 'im ; bery good, ah I
by, by, sleepy sleepy, bery good ; here too much a-cold, by,
by, canoe broke, too much a swim, swim no good !"

The suggestion of a roast chicken or fowl ashore induced
me to yield to my companion's advice, and the latter quickly
brought the canoe near the beach, where, with a cry peculiar
to the islands, he hailed the shore. His cry was soon re-
sponded to by a voice at a little distance off, and in a few-
minutes some blazing cocoa-nut branches illuminated a little
point of land, on which we could distinguish a hut, and
several natives approaching the water's edge. Winding our
way through a tortuous channel, our canoe soon grounded on
the white sand that skirted the shore.

The hut, to which we were immediately conducted, was of
small dimensions, though a number of occupants were
sheltered beneath its roof. One bedstead and two or three

THE LOW REEF ISLANDS. 69

Chinese trunks constituted the furniture, and the quantity of
matting strewed on the floor showed that, though it was still
early, the family had retired to rest before we disturbed
them. Half a cocoa-nut full of its own oil, with some
native cotton twisted as a wick, served as a lamp (the white
fruit around the shell acting as a reflector), and gave us a
pleasant light.

Soon after my fellow traveller had satisfied the curiosity
of our hosts by narrating the adventures of our voyage, a
grilled fowl, accompanied by roast taro and sweet potatoes,
with a few ripe bananas, was served on plates of the mulberry
or banana leaf. The natives themselves, after eating some
raw fish, eagerly devoured the remainder of the fowl I left.
A patchwork quilt, such as the females take much pride in
making, arranging the colours with great taste, was my only
covering. During the night I was much troubled with mos-
quitoes, which are very prevalent throughout these islands,
though the natives declare they were unknown till the white
race appeared amongst them, a not very probable statement.

By dawn the following morning we were under way, a
dollar having satisfied my host. We passed through the
narrow strait that opens to the opposite shore of the island.
The bright blue lagoon is so sheltered that not a ripple dis-
turbs its surface. There are but few inhabitants on the low
reef islands, and no one lives on the main. As we glided
along, some little creek or bay presented itself, where a native
hut might be seen peeping through the sheltering foliage.
A sail of a few hours brought us to the extreme end of the
island, where there is a settlement facing a secure bay, which
can only be approached through the reef by small vessels.

I remained for the night at the house of the native teacher
of the district, finding that I could get all I required at this
place. In the afternoon of the following day I was again on
board the ship. Here I found everything in confusion, the

70 FAMILY OP THE NATIVE TEACHER.

deck and cabin crowded with natives, eating, drinking, and
making themselves perfectly at home, with the captain in
their midst. Notwithstanding the . menacing looks of the
latter, I at once ordered these visitors, friends of his lady
love, on shore.

I now chartered a small schooner to run inside the reef to
near the point I had visited, as the brig was too large to
work up there. I proposed to the captain to take her up, to
which he at first objected, merely from a spirit of contradic-
tion, though it was the very kind of trip he liked. Finally,
however, when I was about procuring another person, he
proposed to go with a bad grace. We anchored the schooner
in a pretty little bay on the east side, near the extremity of
the island (some shoals preventing her rounding the southern
shore to the settlement), and transported our merchandise
across a narrow, flat point of land to the missionary's house.

During the three days I remained at this place, I resided
at the house of the old native teacher. He seemed a decent,
civil miin, and his wife laboured to make me comfortable,
though she was rather acquisitive; but his sons (one of
whom acted as interpreter) were wild scamps addicted to the
bottle, and his daughters were not by any means more im-
maculate than the rest of these islanders, their vices being
encouraged by their profligate brothers.

I had almost concluded my business here when an abrupt
termination was put to it by the arrival of a messenger
from the king, summoning his loyal subjects to join him in
repelling an invasion from Raiatea, and a revolutionary
movement in favour of the old queen, formerly deposed and
expelled from Huahine. All was now commotion;— old
muskets were brought down from the roof, rusty bayonets
were rooted up out of dark corners, most loyal sentiments were
expressed, and loud vaunts of what they would do against the
enemy of their king were reiterated by the young heroes

BLOODLESS REVOLUTION, 71

of Huahine. Every canoe was in requisition. Our schooner
carried some of the warriors, and many more, including a
number of women, started on foot to join in the melee and
battle in the cause of the monarch of their choice.

Whether it was that this trusty succour did not arrive in
time, and the king thought he was not strong enough to re-
pel the invaders, or that he wished to give both parties " a
fair field and no favour," or that he was too good a Christian
to smite with the sword, I know not, but he certainly per-
mitted several boat loads of Raiateans, under a celebrated
Huahinean chief (who had been previously banished for dis-
loyal efforts), to land without the slightest opposition ; and
they were now lodged in the opposite side of the village,
having thrown up a few sand heaps, which they honoured by
the name of forts, though an ordinarily active man could have
easily jumped over them, and which were neither guarded
nor protected in any way. Up to the present time the most
amicable relations seemed to exist between the contending
parties. Not only the common partisans, but the principal
chiefs of either force, passed unconcernedly (occasionally
ostentatiously shouldering a musket, of which they appeared
very proud) into the enemy's camp, where they squatted
down to discuss leisurely the prospects of the coming battle ;
the poor king, a most amiable young man, joining in their
deliberations, or presiding over the school-room, at which he
was much better than leading his people to repel his enemies.
Thus he frittered away his time till the valour of his followers
oozed out, and, with a few exceptions, they turned over to
the enemy, when the old tyrannical queen was reinstated by a
bloodless revolution, and the excellent young king, whose
only fault was his gentleness and good-nature, was obliged to
retire.

72

CHAPTER IV.

The Harvey Islands— Koro tonga — Mangaia — MankS, or Parry's
Island — The Population and their Sufferings— Tomano Wood
— Suspicions of the Captain — Night Fishing — Native Police at
Mangaia — Mr. Gill the Missionary — Appearance of the Island
— Its Trade — Trees and Fruit — Discovery of Mangaia — Davida
— Troubles of the Missionaries — A Premature Step — Position
of Missionaries in the South Sea Islands — Mr. Gill's Departure
from Mangaia — Cultivation of the Taro — Surprised while
Bathing — Charged with Misdemeanour — Evening Patrol — Re-
turn to Manke — The Manke People — An Adventure of the
Captain's — Purchase of a Canoe — Mitiaro— Atien — King's and
Missionary's Law — Freaks of the Captain — A Hospitable Lady
— Harvey Island — Productions of the Island — Aitutakfc — Mis-
sionary Influence — Markets — Native Houses and Orange Groves
—A Stray Waif.

TT7E now proceeded again to sea, steering our course to
" * Manke, or Parry's Island, one of the Harvey Group,
These islands, ten in number, are situated between 19° 10"
to 22° 20" south lat., and 155° to 161° west long. The great
navigator, Cook, whose name they sometimes bear, had the
honour of first discovering them as early as 1773. One of
these (from which the others take their name), erroneously
supposing it to be the principal of the group, he named
Harvey Island. It is really one of the least important, being
one, or rather two, of those low, sandy islands connected by
a sea-washed reef, its scanty soil producing none of the tropical
fruits save the cocoa-nut. It is about eighteen miles in
circumference, and, when first seen, was reported as un-
inhabited, but, on a subsequent visit of Cook, in 1777, some

MANGAIA. 73

fifty or sixty natives were found on it, who are described by
him as extremely savage, and thievish in their propensities.
Rorotonga, containing a population of some 5000 or 6000,
and measuring about thirty miles round, is the prin-
cipal island of the group, not only in extent and popu-
lation, but in fertility of soil and beauty of scenery. It
has one or two harbours for small craft, which the others
are deficient in. Cook never saw this island. The Rev. Mr.
Williams, the indefatigable Polynesian missionary, is said to
have first discovered this lovely spot. Some native teachers
from the Society Islands were placed on it by him, and in
about two years the whole population was converted to
Christianity. New laws and customs were introduced, and
continued to gain favour for some time ; but after the
novelty had passed away, many returned to their old habits.
This produced dissension, ending in a civil war, in which
the missionary party, being entirely successful, they were
enabled to establish thenceforth an uncontrolled influence
over the people.

Mangaia, or Mangeer, is some twenty-five miles in circumfe-
rence, and has about two thousand inhabitants. The population
of Aitutake is about the same number, and that of Atien,
which has a circuit of about twenty miles, one thousand five
hundred. Manke, or Parry's Island, which is not mentioned
by Cook, is said to have been discovered by the missionaries
in 1823. It is not more than sixteen miles round, with a de-
creasing population of two or three hundred. Mitiaro, near
it, is still smaller. Palmerston's, considerably to the west-
ward (by some hydrographers included in the group), is a
low cocoa-nut island, and uninhabited. This, with two other
small, uninhabited islands, concludes the number.

A pleasant sail of four days brought us to Mankfe.
We approached it on the windward side, and, as there
are no hidden dangers in its vicinity, but deep water

74 NATIVES OF THE ISLAND.

close to the reef, we ran near enough to observe its
general features. In form nearly square, a shoal extending
out some two hundred yards lines its coast on all sides,
the sea dashing violently upon it, and sending its breakers
up to the bold but low range of cliffs, crowned with ito, or
iron wood, which fringe the coast. Further inland we saw
masses of gigantic timber of various forms and tints of
foliage. Coasting as near the reef as advisable until about
half way along the western side, the landing-place may be
descried, a small indentation in the reef, which is marked
by an upright ito pole placed near it. A sloping passage in
the cliff, from a gravelly beach, offers a road into the forest,
by which the island seems entirely covered.

Aware that the settlement was in the interior (in this
respect unlike most of the Polynesian islands), we fired a few
shots as we sailed along the coast, and, when near the land-
ing, had the pleasure of seeing a canoe put off to us, with
some half-dozen natives, who were soon aboard. They were
dressed in coloured shirts, with white or blue trousers, and
in their manners were quiet and unobtrusive. We proceeded
ashore in the whale boat ; the vessel, meanwhile, as there was
no harbour, lying off and on. The so-called passage we
found to be merely an indentation in the front of the bold
reef, where the waves broke less violently than elsewhere.
The natives when landing, observing that there are generally
three large waves in succession, watch the moment when the
last has burst on the shore, and, when the fourth rolls in, the
canoe is carried on its crest into the passage, and before
the receding waters can carry it back, the occupants have
jumped out, and pulled it beyond the influence of the next
wave.

On landing, I found many of the natives seated on the
rocks, and, from the curiosity they evinced, it was evident
they had not had much intercourse with strangers. They

TOMANO WOOD. 75

were all decently clad in gala costume. The women, gene-
rally, were not so good-looking as those of Tahiti, wanting
that grace and dignity of carriage usual among the latter.
I found amongst them two white men, an Irishman and an
American, the only foreign residents of this place, one of whom
acts as interpreter. A well-made road leads, in a straight
course, for about a mile through the forest, to the interior,
where we emerge on a broad plain extending about a mile in
each direction. Around its margin, and sheltered beneath
fruit trees, are the cottages of the natives, for the most part
in their primitive form, though we observed one or two stone
houses whitewashed. On an elevation in the plain are the
church and school-house, built of stone.

The island is divided into three settlements, each with a
separate king and government, as is the case in most of the
islands in this group. Mank& and Mitiaro are subject
to the three kings of Atien, by whom they have at times
been much oppressed. The people of the latter island for-
merly made periodical visits to those subject to them, when
they not only appropriated to themselves what food they re-
quired, but destroyed much more, and carried off the women,
ultimately compelling the suffering population to retaliate
upon their oppressors. This tyranny still continues, not
even Christianity having yet succeeded in putting. a stop to
it ; and the people of Manke remain in constant dread of a
visit from their masters.

The Tomano wood, the chief object of my visit to this
place, I found in great abundance ; superior in quality and
size to that of the other islands, the logs when squared being
generally from two to three feet and upwards, and some
twenty or thirty feet long. This wood, which, in colour, re-
sembles mahogany, is most beautifully waved, and capable of
a high polish, but very hard, and rather difficult to work. I
found a considerable quantity already hewn, but at some dis-

76 APPEARANCE OF MANGAIA.

tance inland, and not sufficient for my demand. I therefore
left the doctor on* the island, to procure more timber, and
have the whole brought to the beach, ready for shipment on
my return from Mangaia, to which place I directed my
course the same evening. On leaving, aware of the bad
character of the man in whose power I now was, I expected
he might take the opportunity of my being alone again to
try to rob me of the vessel. I therefore placed my pistols
under my pillow, determined, whatever might be the conse-
quences, he should never do so as long as I had power to
prevent him. However, the voyage passed over without any
incident of moment, except a row amongst the seamen, in
which the skipper took part, rolling up his sleeves and
challenging any of them to fight him, " John Bull or Yankee
fashion ! " meaning by the latter, I presume, gouging,
biting, &c.

On the evening of the second day we sighted Mangaia, but
considerably to leeward of it. From the sea, its appearance is
less picturesque than that of any of the South Sea Islands I
have visited. A mass of rocks rise almost precipitously to the
height of from fifty to a hundred feet, their rugged fronts
only partially clothed with the usual tropical covering. The
comparative scarcity of timber is a striking feature of the
place. The white buildings of the missionary establishment,
at the principal settlement, Onoroa, on the north-west end,
though pretty in themselves, are unsheltered with timber,
and therefore have a bare appearance. They are conspicuous
from a long distance at sea.

Whilst yet some miles from shore, a whale boat, with
several natives, reached us, bearing a note from Mr. Gill,
the missionary resident in the district, inviting us
to trade, and authorizing one of the natives to act as
pilot. Having to beat to windward to reach the landing,
night had long set in before we came up to it, and in the

TORCHLIGHT FISHING. 77

meantime a scene peculiar to Mangaia was for the first time
exhibited to me. When darkness obscured every object on
the island we observed many lights wending down the cliffs
and passing out along the reef to the edge where the surf
rolls. Here appeared numerous other lights, spreading along
the whole line of breakers, waving to and fro, or whirling
round, now dying out, and again flaming in the breeze,
making the white foam, illuminated with their fires, sparkle
like showers of brilliant gems. Even out at sea they were seen
dancing amidst the waves, now dropping from sight, and now
rising and shining brightly, tinging the ocean with streaks
of crimson. On proceeding to the beach, we found that it
was the Mangaia canoe fleet, night fishing, with one or two
flambeaux of reeds in each canoe. The purpose of the display
is to bewilder the fish by the light, and thus render them
an easy prey. At Mangaia the greater part of the popu-
lation is thus engaged, at the proper season, in torchlight
fishing.

Here we were boarded by another whale boat, in which
were two white men, one a Corsican who had resided many
years on the island, the other an Englishman. The former
asked me to his house, and I gladly availed myself of his
invitation.

The landing was similar to that at Manke, perhaps a little
better. A host of natives, with their torches, were ready to
seize the boat the moment she touched the reef, and drag her
beyond reach of the surf. As it was high tide, she had
water enough to float her ashore, some eighth of a mile. Here
I was immediately surrounded by a posse of Rikos, or native
police, who officiously urged me at once to visit the mission-
ary, a proceeding which at that late hour, I assured them,
would be highly indecorous. As Joe, the Corsican, however,
told me that the Rikos would not allow me to proceed till
they had received instructions from him, I perforce consented

78 MB. gill's hospitality.

to be conducted, a kind of prisoner of state, to the dreaded
presence of the " Mikenarfe."

I was ushered into a neatly furnished parlour, where, in a
few moments, Mr. Gill, who had just been retiring, entered.
He received me most graciously, and on my apologizing for
my most untimely visit, blaming of course the officious zeal of
the Rikos, he said they had only done their duty, as no one,
except on necessary business, such as fishing, was allowed to
be out of his house after eight o'clock. After a short con-
versation I rose to retire/ when Mr. Gill declared that he had
no intention of allowing me to stay elsewhere, as he had a bed
always at the service of visitors, and was only too glad to
have the conversation of a stranger in a place so completely shut
out of the world. Mrs. Gill, who meanwhile had entered
and been introduced to me, also warmly pressed me to accept
their hospitality, and as there is no resisting the appeal of
ladies, I accepted their offer, acknowledging that I was very
happy to enjoy the comforts of a civilized home. Of course I
was eagerly questioned as to all that was taking place in
Europe. Visitors to these shores should provide themselves
with files of the latest papers, which may save them much time
in conversation.

That night I had the rare pleasure of enjoying a comfort-
able night's rest in an English bed. In the morning I found
that my apartment formed a portion of one of the wings of
the house, which, with wide verandahs, enclosed on three sides
a neatly flagged court-yard that opened behind to a graasplot,
beyond which were the outhouses, concealed from the view of
those in front by tropical shrubbery. The front opened from
a similar verandah on a green lawn, ornamented with a few
shrubs, and surrounded by a dense hedge-row of lime bushes.
The grounds were enclosed by a wall of white stone, with
neat gates painted green. The avenues were lined on
either side by rows of the slender ti tree, with its plume

THE MUKATEA. 79

of variegated leaves nodding on the top of its branchless stem.
The mission buildings, which extended to the right and left,
consisted of church, school-house, store-houses, &c. There
are also some half-dozen houses of the same material, occu-
pied by the principal chiefs or leading persons, which, with
the residences of the other islanders, generally very similar to
those of Tahiti, form the village of Onoroa, the capital, as it
may be termed, of the island.

The plateau over which the village is scattered, perhaps
about a mile in length, and at this place two hundred yards
wide, seems to have been at one time a water-washed reef,
which has been afterwards upheaved all round the island.
There are some fertile spots on it, but more commonly it is a
mass of rugged rocks with stunted trees and shrubs struggling
for [an existence among them. Behind this level rise the
cliffs of another plateau, called the Mukatea, generally pre-
cipitous, and about a hundred feet in height. A zigzag path-
way of stone steps brings you to its summit, immediately
behind the mission buildings, where you find yourself on a
comparative flat, perhaps half a mile in breadth, the fertile
parts of which are used principally for the cultivation of
the comara, or sweet potato. There are also scenes of
the wildest character, in which the rocks are rent and
heaved into every fantastic form, softened, however, in their
aspect by the many creeping plants that grow in luxuriant
festoons about them, shading the path which has been cut
through the cliffs. Among the heaps of boulders may be
seen the brilliant hibiscus and the wild sweet-scented Cape
jessamine, through which many varieties of bright butterflies
pursue their flight, while active little lizards are continually
crossing your path. Birds of beautiful plumage or note have
no existence here. Some domestic pigeons, that have in-
creased and grown wild, together with wild ducks on the
ponds of the interior, afford a little sport to the game seeker.

80 TRADE OF THE ISLAND.

At the inland edge of the Mukatea is a cliff, as steep as
that on the land side, from which the island proper may be
said to be viewed, as, in all probability, the rocky plateau on
which we then were standing had been at one time a sub-
merged barrier reef; the deep valley below, with its streams
and pools, its bright green taro patches, its huts on the more
elevated spots, and the clumps of bread-fruit and cocoa-nut
trees on them, was probably the bed of a lagoon; whilst the
hills beyond, rising from the centre, bare, barren, and unin-
habited, formed the original island. On the whole, Mangaia
is to the man of science one of the most interesting islands
of the Pacific ; and though it presents no extensive or grand
views, like those of Tahiti, there are several beautiful little
spots, splendid subjects for the artist's pencil.

The principal trade of the island is in arrowroot, which
the natives make of a superior quality, and in fishing nets
and lines, which are sent chiefly to Tahiti, where they
meet/ with a ready sale. A considerable quantity of live
stock, fruit, and vegetables is supplied to the shipping that
occasionally call here ; but as the landing is dangerous, Man-
gaia is much less frequented than Aitutake or Rorotonga.

The evening of the second day I had concluded my trading,
and only awaited the arrival of a quantity of fish-nets and
arrowroot, which I had purchased from Mr. George Gill.
These articles were on their way to me from Tama-ana, a
district on the opposite side of the island, where Mr. W.
Gill, called by the natives " Gilly Ma," or Gill the Second,
presides. As the evening was lovely, I strolled along the
path to the Mukatea, and up its steep sides to the summit,
from whence I proceeded along the main road, on each side
of which are the native huts, surrounded by stone walls
and amid plantations of bananas, comaras, and orange-
trees, their branches already bending under loads of half-
grown fruit. The less fertile portions of the Mukatea are

DAVID, OR DAVIDA. 81

those rocky spots where the pandanas, the boran, and the
castor-oil tree only grow. The latter is in great abundance
all over the island, and might be turned to profitable account ;
a superior cotton is occasionally met with, and tobacco is a
common weed.

From the discovery of this island by Cook, in 1777, till it
was visited by Mr. Williams, it remained in its savage state.
The first two native teachers, one of whom was accompanied
by his wife, were so rudely treated, the woman so grossly
used, that they were obliged to retire. On a second visit of
the missionary vessel, their efforts were more successful, a
hurricane which occurred in the meantime having produced
a partial famine, which they superstitiously ascribed to their
bad treatment of the foreigners; and one David, a Society
Islander, who seems to have been an energetic kind of man,
with a colleague whose name I have not ascertained, landed.
David, or Davida, as he was called by the natives, of course
turned their superstition to account, made rapid progress
with his new doctrines, and had soon a powerful party
around him. He prohibited all heathenish practices, and
their accompanying amusements, instituting the more moral,
but perhaps rather stringent, missionary laws. The fines and
imprisonments enforced for their breach raised a spirit of
opposition which threatened the overthrow of the new order
of things ; and, headed by their redoubted chief " Goliah,
senior," the Tutaiaures, or devil's party, took their stand
against what they considered oppressive laws, and an appeal
to arms was the result. Davida, before the action, had
prayers performed in his camp, and with the shout of re-
ligious hymns for his martial music, like the fanatic soldiers
of Cromwell, his followers rushed to conquest. Henceforth
he seems to have got on agreeably with the people, and his
name continues to be revered by them.

During his administration, the place was visited occa-

G

82 MR. GILL.

sionally by white missionaries, who were all well satisfied with
the progress of the inhabitants, and Davida had cause to be
satisfied himself, for he had increased in worldly, as his
people in spiritual comfort, they having allotted to him, not
only lands for the use of the church, but also some taro
patches, wherein consists the chief wealth of the natives.
David was at last called to his fathers, and dying intestate,
for he had no heirs to whom to leave his wealth, his property
reverted to the original possessors.

Mr. G. Gill, the first permanent white missionary, now
arrived. Heretofore the church had been on the Mukatea,
or inner valley, but Mr. G., preferring the coast plateau, asked
and was granted land as a site for church and dwelling-
houses. Having brought some cattle, with which the natives
were greatly delighted, for they had never before seen an
animal larger than a hog, they willingly appropriated some
land for their use also. Mr. Gill, wishing to place the church
in an independent position, demanded the lands formerly
given to Davida, to continue in his use. This the present
occupiers decidedly refused, and the controversy on the
subject became so animated that the nation was divided
against itself. Mr. Gill's cattle were said to come into their
taro and banana plantations, destroying more than they con-
sumed. This statement, possibly, was only an ill-natured
apology for their uniting to build an extensive wall (a won-
derful undertaking for such an indolent people), confining
the very animals they were recently so much pleased with
to the hilly and less verdant part of the island. It was not
to be expected that a person devoting himself disinterestedly
to their good could easily endure such ingratitude. The
people of Tamarna, on the other side of the island, however,
remained faithful to him. They, at least, had not the excuse
of his cattle injuring them, and willingly responding to
his call for assistance, they tore down the wall that had just

ADMINISTRATION OF LAW. 83

been built. It was, however, obstinately rebuilt by the
Onoroans, and, strange to say, the king and Ata the chief
governor, who had all along been great friends of the mis-
sionaries, would not interfere, and were even suspected of
abetting the proceedings. It was only right that such
temerity should meet with a proper punishment, and the
following Sunday the king, the governor, and several others
were excommunicated — that is, struck off the list of church
members — a terrific punishment for these poor superstitious
people, whose Christianity is not far removed from idolatry,
its forms being more revered than its precepts. Mr. Gill
also set Ata aside from the office of judge, and conferred the
rank on a zealous church member, in every way worthy of
the office, as he had been his devoted servant throughout all
his difficulties with these stubborn people. The islanders
were still further annoyed' at this appointment, as Ata was a
chief, and the new judge one of the common people. This
was a grand democratic stroke of policy, however, for the
new judge dealt out laws at the missionary establishment,
instead of at the king's house, where the great folk formerly
had it all their own way; but as this arrangement inter-
fered materially with the king's revenue, he would not re-
sign his prerogative without a struggle.

The law is administered in a very primitive style in these
islands. Most of the married church members are appointed
" Rikos," or police, whose object it is to find out the delin-
quencies of their neighbours, which are principally confined to
nocturnal meetings of the younger members of the community,
absence from home, or being found alone in the house of
one of the opposite sex, constituting a crime. The culprit is
pounced on, and hurried to the Calaboose till Wednesday (trial
day). The Riko's story is heard, there is no defence, no wit-
nesses called in opposition, and no appeal, except to the mis-
sionary, whose decision is conclusive. A fine is levied, gene-

g2 . .

84 BIVAL POTENTATES.

rally as much as the culprit can pay, which is divided in
shares between the Riko, the king, the judge, and (I believe
I must acknowledge) occasionally the missionary. Therefore,
as I stated, the king disliked the idea of giving up such a
prerogative, when, with the judge, he could make his own
perquisites. He accordingly continued to try all he could
get hold of at the royal residence, whilst Mr. Gill, with his
opposition judge, did the same at his own house ; and, as a
a sharp look-out was kept by both parties, the people, no
doubt, became extremely moral during this double administra-
tion of justice. If so, the effect has not continued ; for
the fair ones of Mangaia are notoriously as frail as when
the missionaries first landed amongst them ; nor can their
licentiousness, in this ' case, be ascribed to the immoral
acquaintance with whites, for fewer strangers visit this
place than most of the Christianized islands of the Pacific,
and only two white residents, both married men, are in it
just now.

Mr. Gill next took a step still further to lower the in-
fluence of the old king, which, however correct, perhaps
was at the time a little premature. When a vessel arrived
for trading purposes, the captain or owner was received as a
guest at the king's house, where a market was held, the king's
eldest son, Tere Mate, acting as interpreter, for which he re-
ceived a fair remuneration. Mr. Gill also had now a market
built at one side of the lawn in front of his grounds, imme-
diately under his eye, and a new market man was ap-
pointed. In addition to this grievance, Tere Matfe, the heir
apparent, one of the most violent of the opposition party,
was found, according to Christian principles, ineligible to
reign, having been born before the king became a Christian.
He was accordingly set aside by the missionary law, and the
second son, born of another wife in Christian wedlock, was
substituted for him. It is true the latter was a silly, worthless

KING AND MISSIONARY. 85

young man, given to the frivolities and sensualities of the
place, where his position partly covered his faults, while the
other was a very superior and intelligent native, having been
to the United States, where he had acquired some knowledge
of civilized life. This, of course, made him only the more
dangerous, and it became the more imperative that he should
be removed, as the success of the missionary cause depends
on the power they possess over the people, and any conflicting
interests should be unconditionally suppressed. As I have
said the step was rather premature, for on the arrival of the
first ship, after the new law, when the captain was taken to
the missionary's house, it produced an insurrectionary move-
ment, headed by Tere Matfe. Revolutionary sentiments were
freely discussed, and in the excitement, charges, gross, and
undoubtedly erroneous, were uttered against the reverend mis-
sionary, which terminated finally in a demand that he should
abdicate, and go into exile. They said they had never asked
him to come, and they could now do better without him.
There was much discussion and bad feeling, harsh charges
and recrimination, but no bloodshed, as Mr. Gill resigned
his charge, and carrying with him to the ship then lying
in the offing his wife, family, and furniture, proceeded in
it to the neighbouring island of Rorotonga. I use these
revolutionary terms, for, in narrating a history of these
islands since the establishment of Christianity (little ante-
rior to this period being known or to be depended on), the
missionary becomes, in most cases, the real head. He is high
priest, lawgiver, and virtually, though not nominally, abso-
lute monarch ; and, according to his disposition, may do
much good or evil in his office.

How ungrateful, how perfidious the conduct of these
people, to drive away their pastor, who had so disinterestedly
come all the way from England, solely for their good ! It
is true, he left a variable and generally disagreeable climate,

86 MISSIONARIES IN THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.

for one of the most salubrious and delightful in the world.
He had a spacious house, far superior to what most of onr
poor clergy enjoy at home, built expressly for him by the
people. He could choose the site of that house in the
loveliest spot on one of those lovely islands of the Pacific,
perfect gardens of Eden. He had many servants to attend
him, for little or no expense. There was no schism in
faith here, no opposition to his particular dogmas, and a
whole people to look up to him superstitiously as a superior
being ; but what were these vanities to a Christian minister
who had come here solely to convert the heathen, and look
after their immortal souls ? It is further true that a re-
spectable salary is paid to every missionary, which is increased
with every child born to him. The fruits of the earth are
yielded here almost spontaneously, and the other few neces-
saries or luxuries of life are laid down at his door on the
half-yearly visits of the missionary ship. Many of the mis-
sionaries do an extensive trade with the natives, and as
they are exempt from the tax that they have instituted
against other foreign residents, amounting almost to prohi-
bition to people of such small means as land here, their
profits are enormous, cloth that costs threepence being sold
at a shilling per yard, and everything else in proportion.
Spirits are prohibited; and tobacco, though sold by the
missionary, is not used on Sunday in Mangaia, under a
severe penalty.

It is thus evident that missionaries in the South Seas
have an opportunity of acquiring wealth, and of having
more of the comforts of life around them than their poor
struggling brethren at home ; but, oh ! how much more
delightful to the exalted mind it is to fill a position
where they can benefit hundreds of their fellow creatures,
where they can promote happiness, virtue, and love amongst
a whole community, enlightening their minds and improving

TJIE EXCOMMUNICATED TEBE MAT& 87

their habits, and therefore being looked up to by them with
respect and veneration. In general this is pretty sure to be
the case with a simple and primitive people, like the South
Sea islanders, and if their system is not too severe, they are
also regarded with love, but otherwise with fear, producing
hypocrisy, falsehood, and dishonesty. I fear the missionary
system is rather austere.

Why was Mr. Gill so grieved at leaving Mangaia ? Was
it that his disinterested labours, solely for the poor heathens'
good, had met so ungenerous a return, or was it at' leaving
his lovely island home? I know not, but in some six
months he returned, and he is now monarch of all he
surveys, while the intelligent, generous, but unfortunate Tere
Mate (from whom I received much kindness in after days)
overcome and excommunicated, hides his diminished head
in his secluded picturesque little village of Tavangie. Here
he has still a few friends, although he is under the ban of
the Church, and the stranger that visits his cottage, prettily
situated on a knoll amidst a grove of orange-trees, with his
little fenced garden of flowers and perfumed plants, will be
pleased with his kind hospitality, and struck with his intelli-
gent conversation. His wife is dead, and he is a most ex-
cellent father. His eldest boy, in whom he takes much pride,
is very handsome. He does npt seem to have any ambitious
views for himself, but fromsome hints dropped casually by him,
he would evidently like the idea of his son one day being king.

But leaving Tere Matfe and this long deviation, to return to
Goliah, junior, the water-carrier (son of Goliah, senior, the Phi-
listine chief), I walked with him as he dragged along his emaci-
ated body and cadaverous face, working out the penance, by his
present degenerate and arduous labour, of his father's heathen-
ish sins. Along the road I saw many groups of children,
young girls, and women, with the native calabashes, proceed-
ing to the springs in the valley. The streams, rising in the

88 THE TARO OF MANGAIA.

inner hills, and flowing through the valleys, are spread out to
irrigate the taro patches. They then collect in lakes beneath
the cliffs of the Mukatea, and somehow find their way under
the mass of rock out to the ocean. The younger females to
whom I spoke looked frightened, and hurried on without
replying, the older only answering in a reserved manner.

The view from the cliff that overlooks the Onoroa valley
is extremely beautiful. The ground immediately beneath
is dotted with occasional cottages, half hidden in their groves
of fruit ^rees. Beyond, the more level portion, where the
stream runs, is terraced off, as the land descends, into in-
numerable patches, irrigated by several little water-courses,
which are seen gliding through the broad, bright green taro
leaves that cover the greater part of the valley.

The taro of Mangaia receives more attention in its cultiva-
tion than that of any other island. The beds are kept constantly
watered and weeded, which is the chief labour, though soil
has frequently to be carried to them, after an excessive flow
of water. When the root is ripe, the top is cut off and stuck
again into the soil or mud, and in a few months is ready for
gathering. The comara, or sweet potato, is planted in the
same way in dry ground, but requires tilling. The women do
all this work.

Descending by a steep path, formed with some labour
through a ravine of the cliffs, I proceeded up the stream to
a spot where the hills, closing steeply around, formed a deep
gorge, and the rivulet, bounding over some rocks into a broad
pool, shaded by overhanging trees, invited me to a bath in
its refreshing waters. It was not till I had partially dressed
again that I was conscious of three figures standing on the
hill a little above, silently watching my proceedings. When I
accosted them, they laughed, and with a wild shout, started
up the hill-side like so many frightened deer ; then, drawing
together, had apparently a consultation. They were all dressed

SURPRISED WHILE BATHING. 89

in native costume, that is, a pariew of tapa swathed round
the waist, and falling to the ankle, and another strip of the
same material, with a slit in the centre, dropping over the
head in the form of a Chile poncho. One was fully a woman
(her tapa being of bright yellow), but the other two were
young girls, wearing the brown glazed tapa common to the
poorer classes here. The eldest, whom her companions
called Luta, had a gentle childlike expression, very different
from that of her two little friends, with their defiant cocked-
up noses. The trio were easily persuaded by signs to
approach, and, assisted by the few words of English that
Luta understood, we were soon on friendly terms. I took
from my pocket a piece of tobacco, which I presented to
Luta, who, to show her gratitude, threw her arms round my
neck, gave me a loving embrace, and rubbed her nose ener-
getically against mine. Then suddenly leaving me, the trio,
with wild screams and laughter, dashed across the brook,
up the opposite hill-side, and were soon lost in its wooded
cover. I turned to finish my toilette, but, horror of horrors !
my spotless shirt and white trousers were changed to the
brightest saffron by the simple Luta's guileless embrace.

I sauntered along the banks of the stream, waiting for sun-
set, and comforting myself with the reflection that yellow was
not so observable in candlelight. I had not proceeded far,
however, before I heard a hollow voice from the opposite side
of the valley, shouting, " Cap'n, cap'n ! You come quicky,
come quicky ! " and looking across the taro patches, I saw
Goliah, with his arms swinging like the blades of a windmill,
endeavouring to attract my attention. " Cap'n ! you come
quicky — suppose no come quicky, no get a dinna ! "
I told him I did not want any dinner, and would return by-
and-by.

But as I was unwilling to keep my host waiting, I deter-
mined, confident in my innocence, though appearances were

90 UNJUST 8USPICIONS.

against me, to brave public opinion. Goliah, on seeing me,
at once charged me with misdemeanor. "Ah! you no
gooda cap'n ; ah 1 catching Oahene."

" No/' said I, " Goliah, I did not catch girl ; girl catch me."

" Ah ! Mangaia Oahenfe no good a ; what a name ?"

"And suppose I told her name; what of that?"

" Oh, by, by, riko catch 'im, putty im Calaboose/'

"Well, will the rikos take me also?"

" No, no ; cap'n eak a dinna ; mofe, moe missinary ; no
catch a cap'n."

" Oh ! they wont catch the captain because he lives at the
missionary's !"

Though, on my return, I modestly retired into the darkest
corner of the room, a severe look from the missionary told
of his unjust suspicions; but as any explanation must have
implicated poor Luta, I determined to say not a word about
the matter. The rikos' " arum," which is merely a hollow
piece of tree beaten with a stick, sounded shortly after my
return, telling me it was eight o'clock; and the patrol
marched through the settlement, warning all stragglers to
their homes, out of whicjh they must not be found after that
hour under penalty of the laws. All houses here are subject
to nocturnal visits of the police at any hour ; but the law is
no doubt often infringed without being discovered.

The following day, business being completed, I left for
Mankfe. As we pushed away from the reef a number of
natives, both male and female, shouted their farewell
to us.

Our return voyage to Manke was marked by no incident
'of importance. On landing I found that nothing had been
done during my absence towards procuring a cargo. Dr. R.
had resolved to settle on the island, turn sugar planter, raise
tobacco, coffee, cotton, indigo, and all the spices of the East,
and had, for that purpose, contracted for about a mile of

THE MANE& PEOPLE. 91

land at a yearly rent of 20$. It is true it was nearly all
forest and rocky ground, which, if not suited for the
doctor's enterprise, was still valuable from the tomano and
other timber it contained. Fruit trees of various kinds could
be raised in many places, where the other trees were cut down,
and every part of the soil would grow cocoa-nuts for the ma-
nufacture of cocoa-nut oil, which would be a much better in-
vestment than the purchase of an estate in Ceylon, at a great
expense, for the same purpose.

I took up my abode at the king's house, which differed
little from the rest, except that it was somewhat larger, and
had a table and stools ; also some Delft ware, with knives and
forks, appropriated to the use of white visitors. We fared well
on roast pork, fowls, fish, &c, cooked in the native oven, to-
gether with the fruits of the island. I set the people to cut
timber, and employed a number more to haul it to the beach,
and bring it alongside, at which I found them very expert,
the men, as they swam and dived through the surf like water-
fowl, laughing, screaming, and shouting. The work was
carried on to the chorus of a wild low chant, not inharmo-
nious, by which all their labour is accompanied. It took us
about a week to put our cargo aboard, the cost being about
three cents per foot.

I was much pleased with the Mankfe people. They are
amiable and hospitable, though some of them will cheat you
if they can. The day before my departure, the king and
governor, and some of the principal inhabitants, promised that
if I would come back and settle there, they would give me as
much land as I could cultivate. They are anxious that
white men should settle with them, chiefly to assist in pro-
tecting them from the aggressions of the Atienans.

An incident occurred here, scarcely worth mentioning,
only that it is connected with subsequent events. During a
visit of the captain on shore he fell in love with the king's

92 MITIABO.

cook, a young girl of some seventeen or eighteen years of
age. When supper-time came no cook was to be found,
and it was at last discovered that the captain had carried her
off to sea. The following morning, when the ship appeared
off the landing-place (which should have been by daylight,
as there was always cargo ready for her by that time, but
the captain rarely had her up till nine or ten o'clock), some
people were sent aboard to bring the girl back, but her fond
admirer refused to restore her, and used violent language to
the natives who had come for her. The king now imposed a
fine of 10$ on the girl for going aboard ship, stating, very
properly, that if he had the captain ashore he would fine him
instead, but, as he had no control over him at sea, he could
not do so. I was at last compelled to go aboard myself, and
had great difficulty in getting the girl out of the captain's
drunken keeping, he having her locked up in his own state-
room. I insisted also on his paying the fine, which, with a
very bad grace, he gave me an order to do, and I placed the
memorandum in my note-book.

♦ Before leaving, I purchased one of the beautiful tomano
wood canoes of this place, so justly celebrated for their light
and graceful form, and an article of trade among the other
islands. The king, governor, and some of the chief per-
sonages of the island, came on board in a large double
canoe, to bid us a last farewell, and evinced much regret at
parting.

Mitiaro, which we reached the following morning, is smaller
than Mank6, and has probably been at no very distant period
a lagoon island. Indeed, there is still a considerable pool or
lake in the centre, and much of the interior is marshy and
uninteresting. Its productions are arrowroot and live stock,
with the usual island fruits.

Christianity was established at Atien without difficulty,
and its progress has been uninterrupted. Like Manke and

KING PAUL. 93

Mitiaro, it has a native missionary (I believe a Rorotongan),
to look after its spiritual interests. The native teachers of
one island are always sent to officiate to the hearers of
another.

As at Mankfe, the settlement was also in the centre of the
island, and the church may be seen on a conspicuous eleva-
tion from ship-board, when a little distance off the land.
The principal landing, as in the other islands, is on the west
side, and, as any ship approaching can be seen from the
central villages, there is generally a canoe standing out to
meet you before you reach the landing-place, which may be
known by an open space amongst the trees, with two conspi-
cuous houses, used as the market-place. The people here are
active traders, bringing everything from the interior, a dis-
tance of some three or four miles, and they will generally
carry their goods back again rather than take what they
consider below the fair value.

The country inland is more picturesque than that of either
of the former two islands, rising gradually in rolling hills,
with small but rich valleys intervening, watered by several
running streams. Atien is divided into three districts, with
a king over each. As in the other islands, one takes the
lead, and, though nominally with no more power than the
others, regulates the affairs of state. " Paul/' or " Paulo,"
with whom I stayed two days, is supreme king here. His
sons are trading masters, and have the entire confidence of
the missionaries, notwithstanding which, experience told me
they were not to be trusted ; they will steal or cheat a little
if they have an opportunity. The church and school here
are large, commodious, and substantial buildings. The
people are orderly in their conduct, and the settlements are
prettily and healthily situated, each on the crest of a
hill, presenting (with the rich, cultivated valleys beneath,
the skirting forest, and the great blue Pacific ocean

94 RIVAL LAWS.

beyond), a scene entirely different from any of the other
islands I had yet visited.

The first night I spent ashore I paid a visit to an Eng-
lishman, the only white resident, living in a house adjoining
that of the king, and belonging to him, where he traded
with the natives. His wife was a woman of New Zea-
land, who spoke English remarkably well, and kept his
hoase, decently furnished in European style, in neat order.
Whilst sitting here, a native hastily entered, saying that the
captain had sent him ashore in his canoe, to tell me that the
vessel was drifting on shore. I hastened with the doctor
to the neighbouring height, from which we could see in the
moonlight the brig standing steadily but slowly out to sea.
Satisfied that it was some drunken idea, we returned, but the
night was bo lovely that we protracted our walk, till, observing
that we were dogged by some men wherever we turned, we
stopped and asked them what they wanted. They told us
we must go home, as it was too late to be out. As we were
then passing Paulo's, we entered, and asked him if he ob-
jected to our walking about, to which he replied/" Not at
all." Notwithstanding which assurance, on our again ap-
pearing on the public road, we were once more stopped by
the rikos, and desired to retire. We told them we had the
king's permission. %i Yes, but you have not the missionary's,"
they said. We asked them if it was the king's or the mis-
sionary's laws they obeyed ; and their answer was that the
missionaries made all the laws, and that what the missionary
ordered we must obey. We replied that in England mis-
sionaries had no such power, and that having the king's per-
mission, we should walk as long as we chose. To prevent
a collision, however, of which there seemed some danger,
we proceeded to the house of the missionary, who, after he
had patiently listened to our lecture on his over-zeal and
officiousness, declared that it was quite a mistake, and that

BOB. 95

he had not sent the rikos after us. This, however, was a
falsehood, as we subsequently learned that he had ordered
them to stop us, saying he did not care for the king's per-
mission.

The following day a lad came to me and induced me to
accompany him to the house of one of the natives of the
better class. On my arrival, an elderly woman came for-
ward to meet me, with every demonstration of joy, and taking
my hand, she kissed it, and explained that she was a sister
of the governor of Mankfe, from whom she had learned, by a
letter she had received, that I was his particular friend, and
if she did not show me hospitality she need never hope to
see her brother again. A new mat was spread for me on
fresh hay, and a profusion of viands was placed before me, in-
cluding ti root, of which I ate for the first time. This root has
an immense quantity of saccharine matter in it, and when
cooked is chewed like sugar-cane or liquorice, but is much
sweeter and coarser (like strong brown sugar) and exceedingly
nutritious. When leaving, two of my hostess's handsome
boys carried down to the boat a roast hog, some large
bunches of bananas and pine apples, a basket of taro, &c, as a
parting gift. I called at her house to bid her farewell, and
make some trifling presents in return, and to my surprise,
found there "Bob," the Huahinean Kanaka of our crew. I
asked him what he did there when he knew that the boat
was just about to leave.

" Cap'n, speak me go shore/' was his reply.

" Yes/' I said, " but you shipped to go the voyage, and
you can't leave here."

" Oh ! me ship go Carifona, me likey go Carifona ; ship
he no go."

" Yes, of course, the ship is going to California ; what put
it into your head she was not?"

" Oh ! cap'n speaky me he no likey more go Carifona,

96 HARVEY ISLAND.

more good me go 'shore; s'pose me no go Carifona, me
like go 'shore too quick !"

I pondered for some time, to discover what could be the
captain's object in sending this boy ashore, who was a fa-
vourite of his ; but finding no better cause, I presumed he
must have been drunk again, though I subsequently con-
nected the event with an action which, if then conceived,
was one of the most villanous ever premeditated by the
worst of criminals.

Amongst the many grand stories of his own exploits the
captain had enlivened us with in the early part of the voyage,
was one of his having been left on the Tonga Islands, during
his sojourn in which a canoe, foil of Aitutakean natives, was
carried away from their island, and driven on the Tonga
shqres. King George of Tonga, it seems, possessed a fine
schooner, built on his islands ; which he presented to Snow,
who had found favour in his eyes, philanthropically coun-
selling him to carry the unhappy castaways back to their
homes. This he did, after which he got the vessel into a hole
in a reef, where he left her. Whether it was dislike to have
his gasconading discovered I cannot say, but he used every
persuasion to prevent my going to Aitutakfe, stating there
was nothing to be had there, that we had already made a
good voyage, and that the season was getting late. I in-
sisted, however, and he yielded with a bad grace to my
orders.

Running before the trade winds, the following day we
were off Harvey Island, which was in our course to Aitutakfe.
It is a low, sandy, coral island, or more properly two
islands, connected by a reef which can be forded at low
water. In Cook's time, these two islands were at war with
each other, which so decimated the inhabitants that, some
time after the establishment of Christianity, the few remain-
ing residents were removed by the missionaries to Aitutakfe.

AITUTABi. 97

At the time of our visit, one white man, his two native wives,
and some children, on one of the islands, were the only occu-
pants. He had formerly a companion in his exile, but,
strange to say, these two men, instead of being friendly to
each other, became deadly enemies. The first departed with his
wife to the opposite island, where they lived for some years in
a state of hostility, till thesecond retired from the place, leaving
the other in undisputed possession of the entire island. In
these remote spots the manufacture of cocoa-nut oil is carried
on with industry, and with a little skill the quantity pro-
duced might be greatly increased. They also raise hogs, but
the soil is poor, though much better than most of the low
coral islands I have seen, and in some parts no doubt
would grow sweet potatoes, bananas, and other fruits. It has
a few stately forest-trees, and the Cape jessamine and other
flowers grow in profusion, perfuming the air. George, the
occupant of the island, seemed perfectly contented with his lot.
Fish, the eggs of sea-birds, and the young sea-fowl themselves,
are excellent food, and with these, and pig occasionally,
together with bread, flour, and other necessaries purchased
from the passing ships, he lived an easy and comfortable life,
" monarch of all he surveyed."

After concluding some trade with George, we pro-
ceeded on our voyage, and the following day sighted Aitu-
takfe. Approaching its southern extremity, we found a chain
of low coral islets, or motos, connected by reefs with the main
island, which at this side is also low and wooded ; while to-
wards the north end, from east to west, it is hilly, but not
mountainous. Extensive reefs, stretching far out from its sandy
beach, protect its low shores from the roll of the ocean, with
depth enough of water on them to enable small craft to ply
in safety round the island at all seasons. In some places
even vessels of considerable burthen would find a secure
harbour, if there was any inlet for them ; but, unfortunately,

H

98 „ REV. MR. ROTAL.

like most of this group, Aitutakfe possesses no harbour; a
narrow passage, which at low tide will not more than float a
whale boat, being the only communication with the lagoon.
At high water, and before it begins to ebb, a small craft of
some sixty tons might possibly be kedged or hauled up, but
the ebb tide flows out like a mill race, so that a boat with
five oars can with difficulty stem it.

I was astonished here to find the natives all speaking more
or less English, and very decently clad in shirt and trousers,
with neat straw hats of their own manufacture. Many carry
some of these in their hands, offering them for sale to the
visitors. Several begged in a whisper for a piece of tobacco,
indulgence in the weed being prohibited by the missionary
laws of the place. Mr. Royal, the present missionary, has
been many years their sole pastor, and devotes himself ex-
clusively to the instruction of the people. The island is
becoming a great resort for whalers, as many as a hundred
sail or more calling here annually.

Though Mr. Royal is I dare say a good and straightforward
man, we may be permitted to doubt whether the transforma-
tion of the natives to Europeans of the modern type is
altogether a desirable consummation. The coal-scuttle bon-
nets, cropped hair, and sanctified look, are poor substitutes
for the sunny locks, bright eyes, and happy countenances of
these children of nature.

" Gi' me piece bacca, cap'n, kiko no see !" was the first
word*addressed to me on landing. Why prohibit so simple
an enjoyment to a people for whom so few others are left ?
The forms of religion are attended to amongst these islands
with superstitious reverence, but morality of heart and life
is perhaps at a lower standard than on the day when Chris-
tianity was first introduced amongst them. Sincerely honest
men, and truly virtuous women, are, notwithstanding all the
missionaries have done, very rare commodities.

HUTS OF THE NATIVES. 99

My object in visiting Aitutake, was to fill up with
oranges, it being the last port we had to call at before our
return to San Francisco. As this was the first ship-
ment made from this place to California, the natives were
in great glee, hoping it was the commencement of a new
and successful trade. There are three markets here, one
of the three kings always presiding at each, and being in
some measure responsible for the honest dealing of the
people. The market squares were filled with natives, their
baskets of fruits, vegetables, live stock, &c, displayed in
proper order.

Leaving the doctor to officiate at the market, I strolled
through the settlement, taking the road to the right. It
led me to the hilly ground on which the principal part of
the village is situated. The light, cool huts of the natives
have been supplanted by heavy, stout stone houses, white-
washed, but in other respects without any approach to taste
in their construction. They consist generally of four thick
stone walls without partitions, except what a mat or piece of
tapa affords. The floor is of earth, strewed occasionally
with hay. Four large apertures, without window frames,
give free access to wind and weather. One or two rude bed-
steads, a chest or two, some baskets for food, half a dozen
water gourds, and a few bundles, probably of tapa, complete
the contents of the interior. Orange or other fruit trees
commonly grow around them, and are scattered along the
road in this direction for perhaps a mile.

Descending to the low ground, a pleasant shady walk near
the margin of the lagoon leads to the pools used for bathing.
On my return, I found a message from the Rev. Mr. Royal,
requesting me to dine with him. His house, in the rustic
cottage style, with the usual wide verandahs, is prettily
situated on the wooded side of a hill that overlooks the settle-
ment, stretching away to the right and left, under the shade

h2

100 INTERESTING CHILD.

of palm-groves, or the spreading branches of the bread fruit,
mixed with the perfumed orange and other trees. From the
gate of the missionary grounds, some flights of stone steps
lead up the terraced acclivity to the house, which, orna-
mented with foreign trees and plants (amongst which I
observed the custard-apple, loaded with its delicious fruit),
has a pretty appearance. I was kindly received by Mr. and
Mrs. Royal and family. After an invitation to spend the
night with my host, which I gladly accepted, I took a walk in
the opposite direction from that I had pursued in the morn-
ing, which is more in the valley, and in denser shade. Many
of the houses here are still of the native construction, as in
Mangaia. I visited the interior of one or two, and found
them strewed with hay, in the usual style, on which mats
were placed for us to sit, h la Turque. I was hospitably re*
ceived by their inmates, some "taro poey" being placed
before me, which # 1 did not like so well as the bread-fruit
poey of the Marquesas. Continuing my walk, a little girl of
some six or seven years was brought to me by some of the
natives, a lovely creature, with flowing auburn hair and
regular European features, combined with the large, soft,
lustrous eyes and the light olive complexion of the islanders,
probably owing her existence to some sailor, who made but a
temporary stay on the island, and possibly was not aware
that he was the father of the lovely being before us. I was
pleased to see the interest and pride the natives seemed to
take in the little creature. To try their affection, I proposed
to purchase her, but a soft arm, encircling the child, and
drawing her to the bosom of one of the dark-eyed beauties,
revealed the bond that existed between the two. With diffi-
culty I persuaded them to allow me to bring her to the market
that I might give her some little presents. The child was
greatly delighted with the few trifles I presented to her, and
bounded off to her home to display her riches, as wealthy, in

MYSTEBIOUS NOTE. 101

the estimation of her wild little companions, as a young
countess.

The following day we had almost concluded business, when
I found I required something from the ship. I tore out a
leaf from my memorandum book, not observing that it was
already written upon, and wrote on it a request that what I
wanted might be sent by one of the natives. As the article I
wanted did not arrive in time, I dispensed with it, and having
finished business went to dine with Mr. Royal. Here I found
the skippers of the two other ships that lay jp the offing, so
that we had quite a dinner party. One of them, strange to say,
proved to be an uncle of Captain Snow, who, disgusted at
being brought here against his will, did not once come
ashore. Whilst we were still at dinner my second mate
marched unceremoniously into the room, and in a mysterious
manner presented to Mr. Royal a note from his brother and
commander. The look of utter bewilderment on the face of
our host, as he read the note, was most ludicrous ; but at
last he found words to ask if the bearer was sure the billet
was for him.

"Yes," said the messenger, with stern dignity, "from
Mr. S."

" Then really, I must say," said our host, in his gentle
way, " I cannot in the most remote degree comprehend it.
I never fined him ten dollars, and I am not aware of any
charge against him about women/'

The note was now handed round ; amongst others, to the
captain's uncle, who had just been speaking about Captain
Snow's poor wife and children, left behind for some years in
the Eastern States. The note was a tirade against the mis-
sionary, with some mysterious allusion to his (Snow's) ab-
duction of a girl, and a subsequent fine of 10$, which his
reverence might pocket, &c. &c. When I read it, I could
not resist laughing. An idea struck me, that in sending the

102 EXPLANATION.

note lately on board with the native, I must have used
Captain Snow's memorandum authorizing me to pay the
fine at Manke, for the abduction of the king's cook, and that
in his usual muddled state, he must have conceived it by
some means to have come from Mr. Royal, to whom he
naturally sent the reply that placed him in such an absurd
position ; and I subsequently found that such was the case.

103

CHAPTER V.

Departure for California — A Kanaka's Interpretation of a Meteor —
Wreck of the Ship — Appearance of Natives — Their Attack re-
pelled — Mahauta sent ashore—Onset of Savages — Our Landing
on the Island — Costume— Native Huts — An Imp surprised —
Insubordination — My Home on the Island — Breaking Cocoa
Nuts — Attempt at Conversation — A Native Supper — Night
Wail — March resumed — A Mara, or Sacred Ground — Curious
Ceremonies — Terror of the Captain — Dance of Females — Mourn-
ful Dirges — Ceremony of Adoption — Sararak — Divisions of the
Island — A Native Plenipotentiary — Blunders made in acquiring
the Language — Novel Appropriation of English Costume — As-
sembly of our Officers and Crew — A Family Group — Alarm of
Invasion — Recovery of my Sword — Ceremony of the Pehu —
Numerous Relations — Etiquette for Relations — My Gratifying
Progress in the Language.

THE same evening we bade adieu to our good host, and
with a pleasant breeze turned our head once more
towards California.

Dr. R., who had recently become exceedingly amiable,
being satisfied with the success of our voyage, confidentially
opened to me schemes for rapidly amassing great fortunes,
clearly demonstrating the certainty of success. I had told
him decidedly at the Marquesas that the present was the last
transaction we .should ever be engaged in together, and had
he now opened me a path to the wealth of Croesus, I would
not have joined him in it.

Walking the deck one evening, I was struck by the
appearance of a remarkably large and brilliant meteor,
occasionally observed on these seas, which, bursting suddenly

104 CHANGING 0* THE WATCH.

to view in the firmament, descends slowly till lost in the
ocean, illuminating the waters during its progress with a
light like that of the moon. The sound of half-stifled sobs
in the forward part of the ship drew my attention there, and
on proceeding to the spot, I found the Huahinean Kanaka,
Bob, crying bitterly. I asked him what was the matter, and
after some difficulty, he informed me that his brother had
died lately, and that the meteor just seen was his spirit, which
come for him. I tried to reassure him, and prove the ab-
surdity of the idea, but without the least effect.

With the sailors forward I had never had much intercourse,
save occasionally a pleasant word en passant. Thus
matters stood on the night of the 6th of January, 1853, when
I retired to rest. I was a light sleeper, especially in the
neighbourhood of land, having no confidence in either the
master or officers, and as we were passing near some islands
laid down on our chart (although, according to the captain's
observations, we should have been far out of sight of any of
them) I felt uneasy. At four o'clock a.m., the changing of
the watch awoke me, and as it was Mr. Snow's watch on
deck, I did not feel again inclined to sleep. As the mate
was turning in, he told the captain he saw something like a
dark cloud ahead, and warned him to look out for a squall.
It appears, from the statement of one of the boys in this
watch, that shortly after he went on deck he saw Captain
Snow come out of his cabin, whisper for a short time with
his brother, and then retire. This he might have done by
the back-door of the cabin without my observing it. On this
occasion the oldest and safest hand of the watch was never
brought on deck ; and the look-out forward consisted of two
inefficient hands, one a Kanaka, and the other a mere lad.
The man at the wheel could not see ahead, on account of the
house on deck immediately in front of him. About twenty
minutes after, as I looked through my cabin-door out on

THE SHIP ASHORE. 105

'deck, a shock like that produced by a collision passed through
the vessel, and I thought I beheld land close to us. The
ship's head, however, rose on the wave towards the sky, and
I waited for an instant till she dipped again, when I beheld a
long line of black, low coast stretching far on either side, girt
with a circle of foaming breakers, the roar of which was
already in my ears. A westerly wind blew dead ashore ; we
were running right before it, and were not a gun-shot from
the reef. I sprang at once on deck, followed almost imme-
diately by all the crew. " Hard up !" some one shouted, and
up went the wheel, the yards were trimmed to the wind, and
the good vessel, obedient to her command, worked round,
giving us yet a chance, when another voice called out,
" Hard down" and the mate at the helm obeyed but too
faithfully the order, depriving us of the last hope of saving
the ship. The next moment her bottom struck a sunken rock,
making the vessel reel, and almost throwing us off our
feet. A white crested wave, raising us on its top, bore us
onward with impetuous force, and dashed us amidst the
boiling foam on the rugged walls of coral. Fortunately
we went head on, and our bow struck into a little bight
of the rock, where it was firmly bedded. About mid-
ship we rested on a rock below, on which each wave that
dashed on our stern and broke over us, raised the vessel, and
let her drop with such force that we feared she would part in
two. .The spars swung and shivered with the concussion,
threatening to fall about our ears, and the sails, that no one
ventured aloft to furl, began to lash the yards and fly in shreds,
whilst the parting stays menaced us with tottering masts.
Our only trust was that the vessel would hold together till
daylight. The supposed cloud seen by the mate proved to
be the Penrhyn Islands, laid down on every chart, and men-
tioned particularly by Wilks.
After adjusting some books and valuable papers that I

106 ATTACKED BY NATIVES.

unfortunately had on board, so that, in the event of my being
able to return to the wreck, I might secure them, I went
forward to the bows to see what chance remained of reaching
shore. It seemed only some two or three hundred yards off
the edge of the reef where we lay, and to my joy, I found
the tide was ebbing, the surf less violent, and the rocks in
front occasionally bare, while at the same time the wind
was falling. We now anxiously looked towards the shore to
see whether it produced cocoa-nut, and, as well as the grey
dawn allowed us, we were glad to perceive indications that
it did. The captain, in the meantime, had got an anchor
out from the ship's stern, and was pretending to try and get
her off, which, of course, every one knew was a vain attempt,
as she was already bilged. She did not' strike heavily,
and I was talking to the doctor about our chance of getting
ashore and saving something, when it was reported that
natives had been seen on the beach. I was proceeding again
forward when a wild yell from shore sent the blood thrilling
to my heart, and perhaps blanched my cheek. I ran to
the bows, and by the increasing morning light could see many
natives along the beach, who, as we appeared, renewed their
yells. Under these circumstances, the captain was the only
man who showed any signs of timidity, at which the doctor and
I laughed, though I must acknowledge the position in which
we found ourselves was by no means reassuring.

Meanwhile, a shout from the bows informed us that the
natives were coming on us ; and on looking over the side we
saw them advancing with spears and clubs, which they
brandished, uttering at the same time the most frightful yells,
accompanied by horrid grimaces and contortions. I at once
ordered a box of ammunition to be brought from below, and
all the firearms being charged, we prepared for the attack.

Our preparations were scarcely completed when I saw a
savage face peer above the rail on the quarter, near where I

A PAULEY. 107

stood. As I had no idea then except of selling my life as
dearly as possible, I sprang forward and made a cut at the
head, which its owner dexterously avoided by dropping into
the sea ; the same incident recurring frequently. The savages,
finding every point guarded, withdrew from the attack, but
kept swimming around the ship, diving at the same time like
fiah, a feat at which the women are quite as expert as the men.
We now tried to propitiate them by throwing things from
the ship, which they eagerly swam or dived after, and then
started with their prizes to shora

As at this time it was low water and unusually calm, I
proposed that we should all land together in the long-boat,
after we had done our best to save something from the
wreck. The captain at once vetoed this proposal by de-
claring the boat was so stove in that it was useless ; and as
for the whale-boat, it had been disposed of at Aitutakd.
" But," said he, in his usual assuming style, " if there's any
fighting to be done, I'm the man that's ready to join any
one !" Dr. R., who was as brave as a lion, looked as calm
as I was excited. In fact, I was much annoyed at the loss
of the vessel. I proposed, therefore, that we should imme-
diately make an attempt at landing, under the doctor's
command. He was ready in a moment, and I was particu-
larly anxious that we should all make the effort together ;
hut several of our boasting crew held back from the
undertaking.

In the meantime a parley was held between a native of
Aitutakd (Mahauta by name), from the bows, and some
natives on the reefs below. We found, happily, that,
although there was much difference in their languages, there
was such a similarity that they could make themselves under-
stood by each other. What transpired in their lengthened
conversation seemed sufficient to induce Mahauta to trust
himself amongst them and, seizing a proper opportunity, he

108 CONDUCT OF THE CAPTAIN.

dropped into the sea and made for the shore. The whole
crowd followed him, and we, who were left entirely to our-
selves, awaited anxiously the result of the Aitutakan's bold
experiment.

On reaching the shore, as I afterwards learned, he pro-
ceeded directly inland, followed by the entire population,
and for some time we were left in doubt as to his pro-
ceedings. A crowd, however, soon appeared again on the
beach, with Mahanta in their midst, who made some signals
to the ship, but whether of a friendly or a warning character
we could not comprehend.

After a time, Mahauta returned on board, stating that he
had been well received by the natives, and that they had
requested us all to land, assuring us of good treatment if we
would allow them to take the cocoa-nuts which they learned
from him were aboard, and of which there was a scarcity at
that time amongst the islanders. The terms did not alto-
gether suit me, for I was satisfied that, if the natives were
allowed to come on board, a scene of plunder, if not of
slaughter, would ensue. The captain had supplied himself
with Dutch courage from the brandy bottle, which he par-
ticularly recommended to the doctor and myself but which,
as I knew I required all the coolness of mind I possessed, I
declined, and threw the liquor overboard. He then made
a maudlin-heroic speech to the crew, stating that he was
going to risk his life ashore to see how the land lay, and it
he fell in defence of the ship, they would know how to
revenge his loss. The natives, however, did not give
him time to carry out his bold design, for many of them
were already coming over the bows, to whom no resistance
was offered. I now got two of the men to join me in
guarding the entrance of the cabin; but soon the savage
host came pouring in on all sides. At first their astonish-
ment at everything they beheld was so great that they did

POSITION OF THE VESSEL. 109

nothing but stare around in amazement, uttering occasion*
ally loud exclamations, accompanied by wild gestures, horrid
grimaces, and slapping the hips — a habit which I observed
to be peculiar to them. They soon discovered the cocoa-
nuts in the hold, and all that could at once went down the
hatchway and set to work to secure the treasure. From this
task, however, they were ere long recalled by one who seemed
to have authority over them, by whose order they com-
menced a fantastic kind of dance, yelling, rather than singing,
a sort of barbarous accompaniment to it. This completed,
they plunged again into the hold and resumed the work of
plunder.

By this time the deck was so crowded with natives that
there was scarce moving room amongst them, and I found
that some of them had made their way into the cabin, and
were already pillaging it. Seizing my sword, I rushed in,
and they precipitately retreated, evidently much alarmed at
the shining steel, and many even jumping overboard. The
captain begged me, for God's sake, to lay aside the weapon,
or we should all be murdered. The doctor, also, quietly
remarked that resistance now would only make matters
worse, and we might as well land whilst the natives had
their attention occupied.

I went forward to see in what state we now were, and
found the vessel's head almost high and dry on the reef,
having been driven farther up since she first struck. On
returning to the cabin, to try and save a few articles of
wearing apparel, I found it filled with savages; lockers,
drawers, and boxes having been broken to pieces, and their
contents appropriated as plunder. I did not attempt to save
anything, and in shirt and trousers, hat and shoes, I pre-
pared to reach the shore. As I came to the spot where the
doctor stood lowering a rope over the bows, old Bill made
his appearance, with a small stock of clothes. The doctor,

110 DRESS OF THE NATIVES.

who seemed for the first time excited, immediately turned
to him and proposed that they should assist each other. I
was about to descend by the rope he had lowered, feeling
somewhat nervous, as I was no swimmer and the surf was
breaking with great violence on the rocks beneath, when the
doctor, in an insolent manner, ordered me to find a rope for
myself. I was, of course, greatly incensed by his conduct,
but cool enough not to provoke a quarrel at such a moment.
It did me good, however, for my anger cured my fear. I
seized some of the broken rigging in a worse position farther
aft on the bowsprit, and watching the moment when the
receding wave left the rocks beneath bare, hastily slid down
and stood on the almost dry reef. To avoid the rapidly
advancing rollers, I started at once for shore, still some two
or three hundred yards distant, when I was overtaken by a
wave, which did not, however, stop my progress, and some
of the natives, rushing into the water, I soon, with their
assistance, got ashore. I had scarcely touched dry land,
when, as if to prove that their conduct was not prompted by
humanity, my pockets were rifled of their contents. One
even tried to get my hat, but I stoutly resisted him, and was
allowed to retain it.

Some groups of women and children, who were congre-
gated on the shore, appeared much terrified. The dress of
the former consisted merely of a kind of short kilt, called a
" titche," formed of a quantity of cocoa-nut leaves, slit into
fine strips like grass, and fastened to a cord at the top, which
secured it round the loins. The mass of hay, as it might be
considered, drops down to near the knee, where it is cut
square off and sloped up a little on the one side, coquettishly
showing the proportion of the leg more than would be con-
sidered strictly decorous in discreet society. They some-
times, also, wear what is called a " pariew," a short mantle
of matting, made from the cocoa-nut leaf, split as fine as

INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND. Ill

straw and plaited in such a way that it narrows up towards
the neck, round which it is fastened, fitting on the shoulders
and falling below the waist. The men only wear a small
"marow" fastened round the loins, and the children are
completely naked.

On my return to the landing, being free to move about,
I saw Dr. R. sitting on a stone, looking very savage. I did
not go near him, for, though I was not silly enough to
quarrel with him at such a time, I still resented his absurd
rudeness. He had retained his bag of clothes, but was after-
wards robbed of it — a loss which he attributed to my de-
sertion of him, as he was pleased to call it.

Being left in perfect freedom, and satisfied that there was
no immediate attempt to be made on our lives, after a short
rest we passed on into the interior, to discover what kind of
place we were doomed to spend it might be the remainder of
our lives in. I was soon enveloped in the obscurity of an ex-
tensive cocoa-nut grove, that seemed, indeed, as far as I
could see, to extend over the whole island. Here and there
I observed also a stiff, ungainly pandanas tree, with its few
straight, pole-like branches leafless, save where they ter-
minated in bunches of crisp and prickly leaves, fully re-
presenting the barren spots in which they love to dwell.
A tall, rank weed, not unlike the aloe, also occasionally varied
the scene. A rude kind of vine, in some places, trailed
along and partially hid the arid, sandy soil, and the graceful
palm tree offered its grateful shade, after the intense heat I
had experienced on the white, sandy beach.

I soon lost sight of the shore, though I knew its direction
by the moaning sound of the breakers. Pushing on through
the jungle of tall weeds, I suddenly came on an open space
of some hundred yards square. It was encircled by tall,
flat stones, some six feet in height, though generally much
lower, but not more than a few inches in thickness ; a sort

112 COURSE TO BE FOLLOWED.

of " Stonehenge " in a small way. Through the open spaces
I could observe several more stones of the same kind, some
lying horizontally supported by others, not unlike the crom-
leighs or Druid temples of Ireland, but more regular in form,
and evidently intended for tombs. I had seen something
similar, but not nearly so regular or extensive, on the Mar-
quesas — their holy ground, which was viewed with so
much superstitious veneration, that death was the penalty
of any one who invaded its sacred precincts. I did not fear
being detected had I crossed it, as, since I left the beach, 1
had not seen or heard a single native (the entire population
apparently being engaged at the wreck) ; but, not wishing to
disregard their religious superstitions, 1 took a little path
that led again through the groves, and, to my astonishment,
found myself in a few moments once more at the water's
edge. I thought at first I must have returned to the beach
I had left, but the appearance of the waters before me, of a
pale transparent blue, as calm and bright as a mirror, con-
vinced me I was on another part of the shore. I sat down
on the log of a cocoa-nut tree, and tried to mark out a line
of conduct for myself. From the intercourse I had already had
with the natives of the South Seas, I was convinced that the
proper course to pursue was to associate with them on such
terms as to impress them with the idea of their inferiority, and
at all risks to keep firm in any difficulties that might arise.
Truthfulness and honesty they can, perhaps, the more appre-
ciate, because they are rogues themselves. As to the ship's
company, I felt that it would be a difficult piece of policy to
manage them, and I resolved to stand aside for a little till
I should see how things might develop themselves — to re-
main, so to speak, passive, taking on myself for the present
no position of authority. I had not mingled much with the
people on board, and they had, therefore, little personal
knowledge of me. I was well aware they would revolt at

NATIVE HUTS. 113

any assumption of authority on my part, particularly as I
was neither commanding in stature nor noisy. Dr. R.,
therefore, was the very man for them ; and I knew that he
could well maintain the dictatorial manner which he as-
sumed amongst the sailors, his personal strength and intelli-
gence both being beyond the ordinary range.

The day, though lovely, was rather hazy. As I peered
towards the horizon, I observed some dark streaks, like low,
narrow clouds lining its edge, and I knew at once it was
land — low coral islands, like the one I was on — about seven
or eight miles distant. Was this one of a cluster of islands,
or was it a portion of a great lagoon reef, with islets
studded around it ?

On my return to the beach from which I had started, I
heard as I approached the shouts and yells of the savage
tribe, still busy at their work of plunder. I concluded that
the island could be little more than a quarter of a mile broad
from shore to shore, though, from the view I had along both
coasts, it must be several miles in length. In recrossing I
observed some low sheds, which, as I saw no other dwelling-
places, were doubtless the residences of the natives, though
the most miserable shanties I had ever beheld for human
beings, consisting merely of four inclined sticks, about five
feet in height, with two uprights and cross beam, forming a
light frame for a small roof. At the base the house is some
six feet wide by eight long, the whole covered by a thatch of
the cocoa-nut tree, formed by splitting the bough and platting
the leaves, till enough are linked together to reach about half
way up the frame, on which it hangs so loose that it can be
lifted or dropped at pleasure. Other boughs are then fastened
on in the same manner, but secured to the frame till all is
covered in, the ends being closed by platted boughs secured
to the uprights. Those I saw on the present occasion had
the leaves supported by a stick, and the owner being at the

i

114 REFUSING TO WOBK.

beach, I crawled on all fours through the aperture to observe
the furniture of the interior.

This was not of the most costly description. A roll of
sinnet and a coarse bag-net were suspended from the ceiling,
a rough mat of pandanas leaf partially covered the sandy
floor, and another was thrown over what seemed a bundle at
the far end. Curiosity tempted me to lift the latter, when
I beheld an urchin whose little black eyes seemed fairly to
start out of their sockets as they stared at me ; while his
mouth, which was about as broad as his face, emitted the
wildest screams of terror I had ever heard. Nearly as much
frightened as the child, I backed out of this den and at the
same moment the little imp, throwing up the opposite side
of the house, darted into the woods; and, though his
yells still were heard, modulated by distance, he was out of
sight in an instant.

It was almost sunset when I returned to the beach, where,
to my great disgust, I observed that some of our men were
occupied in carrying great baskets, made from the cocoa-nut
leaves, containing cocoa-nuts and other articles saved from
the wreck, which they were bearing inland under the direction
of the natives, who were already employing them as slaves.

On my appearance several of the savages ran towards me,
and, pointing to the baskets which were being rapidly made
by the women on the spot, to be filled by the men, they
desired me (as I could understand by their gestures) to
commence work with the others. This I decidedly declined
to do, at which they seemed very angry. However, it made
no difference to me, as I had resolved on a course of
conduct; and the present was an excellent occasion for
evincing my resolution. Not content with refusing to work
myself, I hastened to two of the men near me, and begged
them to desist, telling them it was much better we should
lose our lives at once by resisting these people's orders than

MARCHED OFF. 115

have our existence made a burthen to us by becoming slaves
to them. One of them, " Joe/' the fellow I had taken off the
Marquesas at his own urgent entreaty, replied, that " Jack
was as good as his master in this place, and every man could
do as he liked." " Oho l» thought I, " this is the kind of
insubordination I foresaw ;" but I merely replied, " I never
was your master, my man ; I only advise you to a course I
pursue myself, and you will find before long which is right' 1
— as to his sorrow he afterwards did. The other sailor
(" Painne," as he was subsequently called by the natives)
threw down the basket, saying, " He would work no more

for the d d savages/' The influence I thus exercised

seemed to make considerable impression on the natives, and
I have no doubt I was heartily anathematised for my in-
terference. The air of dignity I assumed did not seem to
impress them ; but my manner caused some discussion, in
which one, who apparently possessed authority, appeared fa-
vourably disposed towards me. Three little boys who obeyed
his instructions, I presumed to be his sons ; and a party of
men and women working under his directions made me think
he must be a person of some importance.

At sunset various little groups began to form and move
off in different directions, the men invariably armed with one
or more long, slight spears, made of the cocoa-nut wood, the
women also carrying a kind of club of the same material. At
last it came to my turn. The man whom I had formerly
noticed with the three children (together with a party of
some seven or eight men and women) told me to follow
him. I accordingly wheeled into rank, and, guarded fore
and aft, started with the small party in Indian file, by a
narrow and circuitous path through the wooded grove. The
course we took led us at times through the centre of the
island, at others it brought us near to the shore, and even-
tually to the calm lagoon, or smooth sea, I had seen in the

12

116 A HAMLET.

daytime. A pleasant breeze now just ruffled its waters, and
made the air pleasantly cool.

Here some children joined one of the boys before men-
tioned, the other two haying been sent on some errand.
They all looked at me from a distance with an expression of
fear and awe, which indeed was, in some measure, exhibited
in the manners of the older members of the party. A
shout from the still waters drew my attention in that
direction, and I observed the two boys pulling a canoe, loaded
with stuff from the wreck, oyer the shoal of the reef,
which I now saw extended out from both sides of the
island. After a walk of a mile or two we abruptly turned
inland, and in a few minutes halted at a little hamlet, I
might call it, in an open space, strewed with white gravel
from the sea beach, and planted round with young cocoa-
nut trees, whose bright leaves completely shaded the three
little huts that half occupied the space ; while another, par-
tially hidden by some pandanas trees, was evidently the
cook house. The white gravelled plot was scrupulously
clean, and looked prettily bright in the surrounding dark-
ness of the forest. A mat, taken from the house, was spread
on the ground for my use, and I sat, or rather reclined on
it. The natives also used mats, sitting a la Turque. " This,
then," said I mentally, " is, I presume, to be my home, per-
haps as long as I live ; and God only knows how long that
may be, amongst such wild beings !" But on looking around
the little group before me, they did not seem the same
yelling savages I had beheld all day. They had now the
appearance of rational beings, spoke quietly, and I even
thought kindly to each other, and frequently laughed with a
pleasant cheerfulness that astonished me.

After the articles from the canoe — sails, rigging, iron bolts,
hoops, nails, clothing, cocoa-nuts, one or two drinking
utensils, and other things, including two hogs — had been

PREPARATION OF KEU OARA. 117

carried up to the houses they returned to their mats. Two
of the boys took the husks off some green cocoa-nuts by
placing on end, on the ground, a three-cornered piece
of wood, called a " co," on the sharp point of which, sup-
porting it in an upright position with the soles of their feet,
they struck the nut till they had driven it through part of
the husk, which they stripped off. The nuts are then handed
over to the women, who with a stone crack them through
the centre, preserving the water in a wooden bowl. With a
piece of mother-of-pearl, called a " tue," some six inches long,
and tapering to a point, and about two broad at the base,
where it is nicked like a saw, they scrape the meat very fine.
This they do by placing a half nut between their legs, press-
ing the edge down with the left thumb, holding the " tue," like
a pen, in the right hand, and scraping from the edge down-
wards, the left forefinger pressing on and assisting the
others in the operation, which, when a large quantity of
" neu oara" (as I soon learned it was called) has to be made,
is very fatiguing to the hands. It is then mixed with some
of the water of the nut (one cocoa-nut making about half a
shellful) till about the consistency of dough, and is ready
for use if it is to be eaten raw. If it is to be cooked, more
is put into the shell, and another is placed on the top, careful
cooks covering with a piece of leaf the hole, or eye, to
prevent the entrance of dust. This article forms the chief
subsistence of the people.

During the preparation of supper, many questions or re-
marks were addressed to me ; in answer to which I could
only shake my head, to signify I did not understand what was
said. This, however, they did not comprehend, for in ad-
dressing me again I observed they shouted in a high pitch
of voice, " Co ai coe !" an expression which they frequently
used. I thought it might be some complimentary phrase to
which I was bound to reply. I responded, therefore, in the

118 EXAMINATION.

language of the Harvey group, of which I knew a tew
sentences, with the word "maitake" ("very good.'*)
Thereon an excited discussion ensued ; the word " maitake,"
after passing from month to month, thenceforward became
my name ; and very naturally, for 1 subsequently found that
41 Co ai co&" meant, « Who are you?" or "What's your name ?"

As I had been so successful with these two words, I used
them in reply to all subsequent questions, which seemed
rather to bewilder my examiners. It afterwards proved they
had been asking me the names of my father, mother,
sisters, brothers, and kindred generally ; and such a host
of "maitakfes" utterly astounded them. One sceptic, however,
shrewdly suspecting that I did not understand them, ad-
vanced towards me, and placing a hand on each shoulder,
while he brought his face close to mine, shouted at the top
of his voice some words, each of which was slowly and dis-
tinctly uttered. Then drawing back, apparently satisfied that
I must comprehend that, he encouragingly waited my reply.

In the same deliberate manner I placed a hand on each
of his shoulders, which made him appear a little nervous,
though he looked round with a smile, and made some re-
mark evidently to this effect, " You see I found the way to
make him understand me 1" But what was his consternation
when, in his own loud and distinct manner, I shouted, " I —
don't — understand— one — word — you — say V 3 He looked
perfectly bewildered, and, with the rest of his countrymen,
seemed to think it was an utterly hopeless case.

My first dish of " neu oara " was now presented to me, but
it was mawkish, watery stuff, and hungry as I was, I could
scarcely finish it, not for want of encouragement though,
for they evidently pressed me in the kindest manner to eat ;
one elderly lady with remarkably short' petticoats, com-
ing over and patting me as if I were a petted baby, while she
repeated the words, " A kai 1 a kai ! teo neu oara/ 1

MIDNIGHT DIRGE. 119

Some dried boughs of cocoa-nut that quickly flared up
when they were thrown on the fire, lighted with fitful gleam
the swarthy figures and strange scene around. I could
scarcely realize the truth of my position, and could not help
asking myself if it was not all a wild dream.

I crawled into one of the sheds and lay on a single mat that
covered the rough ground beneath. With my head on a
pillow of -wood I disposed myself to think : not to sleep, for
between the hardness of my bed and pillow, anxiety for the
future, and the excitement of the day past, my mind was ill
disposed for rest. The night was perfectly still. There was
not even the usual rustling of the leaves of the palm-trees in
the night air, the low monotonous moan of the breakers
alone being distinctly heard. I had lain some hours, turning
restlessly on my hard pillow, when another sound came
through the silence of night, a low cry or wail, distant at first,
but apparently taken up at different points, and coming
nearer and still nearer, until it was re-echoed in the same
low tones in the house opposite. It might have been a
dirge for the dead, and was not disagreeable at first, particu-
larly in the lower notes, though the higher were decidedly
discordant, and, when long continued, irksome.

An old man and a boy, who were in the tent with me,
joined in the melancholy chant, the former rolling his head
from side to side. This continued perhaps for an hour, when
the sound died away gradually as it had commenced, and
save the endless moan on the sea-shore, all was silent. I
did not sleep that night, however.

The following morning all our little community was astir
by daybreak. I was taken with them to the inland water's edge,
where we all performed our ablutions in a small pool, fenced
from the sea by a stone dike, of which there are many along the
shore. Outside of these barriers all dirt and filth are cast,
nothing of the kind being allowed to pollute the land.

120 A "MARA."

By this time both men and women of the party with
whom I had been all night were armed, and with a guard
front and rear we were marched in the direction we had come
the night previous, but by a different route. From houses
that we passed we picked up successively the mate, the
second mate, and others, each with his particular guard ;
with whom, ere long, we arrived near the site of our wreck.
In this, which happened to be the most thickly settled por-
tion of the island, we found in one of the houses the
doctor, captain, and one of the men. In a short time all
the crew and the entire population of the island were con-
gregated. We then continued our march, each under the
charge of some particular native, the party I had arrived
with still claiming me as their especial property. Mahauta,
the little boy who had slept in the house with me, had
got over his fear in a great measure, and hung much
about me. This I encouraged, not because I felt any affec-
tion for him, but I was aware that on the Marquesas the
people had a great veneration for boys ; and I thought that
if they meditated any sudden act of treachery, I should seize
the lad as a hostage.

After a quarter of an hour's march we halted at a rugged
and bleak spot. Blocks of coral rock were strewed around,
and piled in masses of every form, as if rent and upheaved
by an earthquake. The tall fara weed grew rank, showing
that the spot was rarely visited. Numerous pandanas trees
darkened more than usual the deep shade of the grove, but
not enough to hide the tall stones of a " Mara" (or sacred
ground) that appeared beyond. There were few or none
of our party who were not aware that, on the Marquesas and
other islands where cannibalism is practised, such spots are
dedicated to these horrible orgies — their fellow-beings being
here offered as a sacrifice to their gods.

The women and children, who are not allowed to enter

SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONIES. 121

these holy precincts, now stopped with looks of fear, whilst
all the men proceeded a few paces farther. Looking around
on our people, I saw that all were serious, some blanched
with fear. Four young men rushed with their spears
to the edge of the mara, as if about to attack an enemy ;
and, facing each other with the most horrid contortions of
visage, rapidly uttered or rather yelled a kind of incan-
tation, to frighten away the evil spirits that always haunt
these spots ; and such faces were surely enough to frighten
spirits or mortals either. When this " hai-ing," as it is
called, was concluded, the whole concourse of men hastened
within the precincts of the mara, as if afraid that the wicked
spirits might get in before then\. Two old men, girt round
with cocoa-nut leaves, whom I supposed to be priests, took
seats on either side the mara, some distance further up than
the rest. Three young cocoa-nuts were then placed on a
flat stone in front of us, near which stood four young men,
decked with wreaths of green leaves. At a given signal from
the priests two of these, stripping two pieces of husk from
the cocoa-nuts before them, ran with great speed to a point
where they deposited one piece of the husk, immediately
darting back as if the devil was after them. Each then got
behind one of the tall mara stones, near the priests, where
they were out of danger, and presented the other pieces of
husk. This they did in a slow and decorous manner, very
tinlike the unseemly haste they had evinced the moment
before ; raising their hands high above their head and putting
the husk down before the priest, who, without looking up,
took it with a meek and reverend air befitting the occasion,
bent over it, uttering a low, hurried prayer or charm, and
then with his right hand threw it over his left shoulder.
The same ceremony was repeated till every part of the place
was purified of the devils that made it their habitation. The
whole affair was curiously like the infantine game of " Pussy

122 THE HIGH PRIEST,

in the four corners/ 1 though the ceremonies were evidently
performed with perfect faith in their efficacy. The whole
party then advanced to an altar— a heap of rude stones. A
youth, having cut three small branches from a young cocoa-
nut tree, platted the leaves of each into something resembling
the form of a man, and handed them to an old chief that I
had before observed as a leading person* amongst them. On
receiving the three gods, as I believed them to be, he
ascended the altar, and all heads remained bent in awe
till the ceremony was concluded.

O Packa, as this chief and high priest was called, on re-
ceiving one of the cocoa-nut gods, ascended the altar, and,
seating himself in front of a large stone, while he held his god
in both hands, began to glance wildly round in every direction,
his eyes wandering over the crowd of bowed figures before
him. A trembling motion, commencing in his hands, ex-
tended through his whole body till every limb shook in the
most violent manner, the muscles working and the veins
swelling almost to bursting — a sign, as these ignorant
creatures believed, that he was possessed by a spirit. After
uttering a few incoherent sentences, which subsided to
a low prayer, he lifted his leafy god and struck him
violently against the stone before him, repeating the same
process with all three. The idols, having thus done their
part in the ceremony, were unceremoniously thrown aside
amongst a heap of rubbish. The three cocoa-nuts, which
had remained on the altar all this time, were now removed,
and we were marched once more out of the mara and
seated near its boundary. The captain, I saw, had been in
no less terror than myself, and doubtless from the same cause
— the belief that these rites were preparatory to a human
sacrifice. ' He trembled violently, and his colour was a sickly
white. Dr. R 1 must acknowledge, seemed more an-
noyed and angry than frightened.

FOOLISH URBANITY. 123

The three cocoa nuts that had played such an important
part in the whole proceedings were now produced, and, after
some more ceremonies, were broken, and handed, one each,

with signs that we were to eat them, to the mat«, Dr. R ,

and myself. Was this to indicate that we three were selected
the first for sacrifice ? Such was evidently the opinion of the
doctor, for, stretching out his long bony hand over to me, he
said — " I think we may bid farewell to each other, Lamont ;
we are selected first to be cooked ; I suppose they want to
put us in condition by feeding us first."

The natives then proceeded, taking us with them, to a
little pool of fresh, water, into which they plunged, and,
stooping their heads, with a peculiar action of the arms
splashed themselves over as ducks do with their wings.
When urged to do likewise, some of us objected. Our
refusal seemed to give them so much annoyance that we com-
plied, and, after ablutions, one of the little boys who had
taken charge of my clothes handed them to me, apparently
well satisfied at my performance. I was astonished that they
did not endeavour to take any of our wearing apparel, but
neither on that nor on any other occasion did I ever hear of
an article in use being stolen from any of our people. Some
voluntarily resigned them to the savages and went naked, an
act of urbanity they lived to repent, for the natives after-
wards considered them no better than themselves, and
treated them accordingly, although at first they seemfed
pleased with them for doing so.

The ceremonies, however, were not yet entirely concluded.
When dressed we were again marched off to a clear space
near the beach, where the women were congregated. These,
after some hesitation, as if from bashfulness, stroking down
their " titches," placed themselves in position opposite to each
other, and began a very absurd dance, though (unlike the
other islands of the South Seas) there was nothing indecent

124 DANCE AND CHANT.

in it. Raising one hand in the air and lowering the other
towards the ground, they waved them rapidly, at the same
time (after scraping the ground with their feet to make it
smooth) rising on their toes, with their knees partially bent.
Then looking wildly sideways at each other they commenced
a quick-step, beating the ground as rapidly as they could
hop from one foot to the other, changing their position occa-
sionally, and elevating now the right and now the left arm,
accompanying these gestures with a low guttural sound not
unlike that made in calling chickens. This dance, called
the " shukai," is performed on all public occasions, and much
admired, though the fair dames sometimes require a little
pressing to commence.

On the conclusion of the dance, after some further pre-
liminaries (for I noticed that everything done required dis-
cussion) they seated themselves cross-legged on the ground
in two long rows, the men arranging themselves in two
lines behind the women. The same low, mournful chant or
wail that I had heard in the night was then commenced, ac-
companied by a clapping of hands in slow time. The women
shook their heads in a mournful way, by no means re-
assuring, as they looked at us, and while their song con-
tinued tears fell from their eyes. Their voices, before low
and plaintive, now rose to a piercing and unearthly yell, and
the hands were clapped more quickly and violently, an
act to which they were stimulated by sundry pokes behind
from the men's spears. The men themselves also now
joined in with their deep voices, and, strange to say,
they too commenced crying. The women became so
excited that they began to cut their arms with small
clam shells, which, in the midst of all their distress, they
had been leisurely sharpening on stones for the purpose.
The more they cut the more they screamed, with the most
discordant sounds, the men also joining in and accompanying

SARABAK. 125

them in this outrageous proceeding. Before they ceased their
legs, arms, and faces were streaming with blood, and as they
wiped away the ever- flowing tears, now mingling with the
red stream on their cheeks, their visages became perfectly
horrific.

When they were completely exhausted by this operation,
we were all marched to the point from which we had
started in the morning, where, to our great satisfaction, we
were left comparatively alone. I afterwards learned that
the ceremony through which we had passed was a form
of adoption, each of us becoming from that time forth
the chosen child of some leading man in the place;
standing in the same position to all his relations as
his own children, and even enjoying some additional
privileges.

As our respective and respected parents now urged us to
return home to the bosoms of their families, we were con-
strained to obey them. The following morning, however,
we were to assemble at the house of Dr. R. to consider
how we should act in our present circumstances.

Sararak, it appeared, was the appellation of the island on
which we were wrecked. The name of that central portion on
which we were cast away was Mangerongaro. The northern
division on which I lived, and of which my respected parent
was chief, was called, strange to say, Tahiti; whilst the
southern, the most extensive but least populous part, was
named Haka Shusha. The latter division had been at one
time a separate kingdom, but conquered and almost depeopled
by Sararak, it was now dependent on it. The whole island
was from four to five miles long, and about a quarter broad ;
the waterwashed reef on either side extending nearly as much
more. This, I subsequently found, was a portion of an ex-
tensive reef some thirty-five miles in circuit, with various
islands dotted on it, of which Sararak was about the largest.

126 A PLENIPOTENTIARY.

The reefs between the islands can, for the most part, be
forded, particularly at low water; but there are three passages
of sufficient width and depth to admit of the entrance of
vessels of one or two hundred tons burthen: one at the
north-east, the others at the north-west side of the lagoon.
The various inhabited islands (some fourteen in number) are
in a constant state of feud with each other, though alliances
are sometimes formed for mutual protection.

Meanwhile, a plenipotentiary from one of the neighbour-
ing islands came to the court of O Pae Tangata, my august
father, Iriki (King or Chief) of Tahiti, or* North Sararak,
and after some exclamations of wonder proceeded to make a
lengthened speech, no doubt highly complimentary to the
new found prince of the royal line of O Pae Tangata, a name
which he frequently repeated in his address. Seeing, how-
ever, that I cast many wistful glances at the neu oara
now ready for me, he abruptly concluded his oration, and
after a pause, himself looking towards the food at the same
time, inquired of me, " Oa hungy coe ?" This sounded so
like, " Are you hungry ?" that at a venture I replied, " h,"
which I had already observed meant " Yes." Tremendous
excitement was the consequence of my answer, it being
evidently regarded as a sign that I had found my tongue
at last, and could speak their language. One of the women
darted to a basket belonging to the stranger, and took there-
from a fine cooked fish done up in leaves, together with a
blackened cocoa-nut shell of neu oara, also apparently
cooked, repeating, " Teo neu oara, taw e teo ika" ("ika"
is the common name for fish amongst the islands, and I
saw " taw " meant cooked), to all of which I replied,
" E, e !" to their great delight. As I ate they looked on,
repeating frequently, " Oa hungy, oa hungy V 9 (" He is
hungry ") in a plaintive voice, waving their hands in their
own peculiar way, and shaking their heads.

NEW U8E8 FOR OLD GARMENTS. 127

When I had finished, they said, in an approving manner,
" Oa ma kona coe ?" Here was a puzzle ! I listened as
they repeated the sentence till I had the sound correctly,
and thought the safest plan would be to repeat the phrase,
which I did. A bewildered look, with the usual expression
of astonishment, " Ka oaia !" was the result I had told
them, in answer to their inquiries if I was satisfied,
that they had eaten enough, whereas, in conformity with
the rites of their faith, they had been fasting the entire
day as austerely as any devout Catholics could have done*
In this manner, through many absurd blunders and ridicu-
lous mistakes, I gradually acquired a knowledge of their
language ; though it was not till I had begun to lose hopes
of escape that I took any interest in learning it.

During the remainder of the evening, in despair of making
anything of me, my friends left me pretty much to myself,
whilst they entertained the visitor with a display of various
articles belonging to the ship. They endeavoured to push
their legs through the sleeves of a black dress coat that
had been mine, after the manner they observed I wore my
trousers, till I showed one of them how to wear it properly.
As an evidence that he thoroughly understood my lesson, the
illustrious ambassador, seizing a pair of black trousers, stuck
his arms through them, and ensconced his head in the body,
so that he could not find his way out till he roared for assis-
tance. Shirts they seemed from the first to understand and
appreciate; and any piece of cloth they could gird round
them or lie under they appeared to value; but trousers
^ere evidently an incumbrance, which they neither under-
stood nor liked. The black pair referred to I afterwards
saw torn to pieces on a boy as he climbed a rough cocoa-
nut tree. Coats (which they adopted on state occasions)
were worn after their own fashion — that is, with the sleeves
fastened round the loins in front, and the tails swinging with

128 a calamity!

graceful dignity behind. Sometimes they were to be seen
with one boot or shoe, and nothing else ; for as every one
wished to adorn himself with some part of the newly-adopted
costume, it was necessary to make the limited wardrobe
go as far as possible by division of the articles among as
many as could be supplied. Stockings were usually left
to the women, by whom they were worn as a kind of
cross-belt, secured, top and toe, on the shoulder, and
occasionally even used as a dress turban on festive occa-
sions. A very broad-rimmed Spanish wool hat of the
doctor's so delighted the natives, that they wore it
each two days in succession; a tall savage, whose huge
head was twice too large for it, sporting it one day,
while the next an urchin peered from under its wide
shadow, holding up its spacious sides lest it should suddenly
descend and extinguish him.

It is their habit, whilst seated cross-legged, if anything
is to be passed from one to another, to pitch the article, as
they will not take the trouble of rising to carry it ; and
as they have no brittle commodity, this habit is not to
be wondered at. Amongst other things produced from the
house was a drinking-glass, which was brought forth to
gratify the curiosity of the ambassador, who was sitting
on the opposite side of the wide circle. Each article when
exhibited had been thus thrown to him ; and as the tumbler
particularly excited his admiration, it was propelled towards
him in the same manner, and coming down on a stone,
shivered into a thousand pieces ! — a calamity at which the
women, who had taken a great fancy to the glass, expressed
by their lamentations the deepest regret

This closed the evening's proceedings ; and while our
visitor made his escape in the midst of the excitement,
1 also seized the opportunity, as it was now dusk, to
retire to my " bed — not of roses ;" for it consisted

-ENLARGEMENT OF THE SHIP'S BOAT. 129

of rough coral gravel, and I found had been made softer
for me since last night by an extra layer of the same
material — " Penrhyn Island feathers/' as some of our people
called it. Notwithstanding this delicate attention, how-
ever, and that I doubled up my Panama hat to keep my
head from too close contact with my pillow of wood, I
slept almost as little as on the previous night.

The following morning I did not wait for my mess of
cocoa-nut, of which I was becoming very tired, and would
have started off to our appointed meeting, but men, women,
and children gathered round me, and attempted to prevent
my abrupt departure. Go I would, however ; and in spite
of all their murmurs I proceeded to the rendezvous. Here
I found that several, who, like me, lived at some distance,
had not arrived, probably detained by their anxious rela-
tives. I did not like this endeavour to keep us separated,
and looked on it with suspicion, as indeed we all did on
every movement of the natives, whom we were unable
altogether to trust as friends.

This day we proceeded at once to business. It was
observed that the ship's boat had been washed ashore
very little injured ; and after discussing the possibility of
making any other land in her, it was proposed to lengthen
and raise her with timber from the wreck, and out of the
abundance of sails and cordage, to rig the enlarged boat
schooner form. For this purpose it was necessary to
collect the materials which the natives were daily carry-
ing away ; and as we might anticipate visitors from the other
islands, these depredations would be increased. As no one
of the houses occupied by any of the crew was large
enough to hold such materials, we determined to build
one, and to cover it with canvas from the sails, construct-
ing it in such a manner that some of us could live in
it and protect the property. Dr. R., myself, and a few

K

130 VISITOKS.

others were chosen for doing so. Scarcely had we arrived at
these conclusions when a number of natives appeared, and
urged us to follow them, as if something extraordinary was
about to occur. There was indeed a vague rumour that we
were about being attacked by some of the other islanders ;
but this I scarcely supposed, as from the excitable character
of the natives, I was satisfied there would be a greater
sensation if such were the case. We were, however, mar-
shalled in the same manner as on the previous day ; and on
arriving at a certain point, found there an assemblage of
entirely new faces — the population of one of the neigh-
bouring islands. Although they were all armed with spears
and clubs — an invariable rule with these people if they only
move a short distance from home-— they were freely inter-
mingling with each other, and were evidently friends. The
strangers proved to be the people of Mutagohichy, the
next nation to the north, and allies of Sararak. Some of
the same ceremonies had to be gone through with them
that were performed yesterday — namely, the pehu, or wail-
ing and gnashing of teeth portion, and the singing, crying,
cutting, screaming, and bleeding scene, with the omission,
however, of the mara devotional exercises.

Thoroughly tired, I hurried off as soon as I possibly
could ; and as I had not yet eaten anything, and it was now
afternoon, I turned my steps towards home with an appetite
ready for my mess of cocoa-nut, which I had felt so little
inclined for in the morning. It was rarely that any of us
were allowed to be alone, for wherever we moved we were
generally followed by a number of the natives. On the
present occasion, however, I had slipped quietly off, and now
wandered by a lonely path that led towards my house.
When I had arrived at that rocky portion of the island
where the tall hara weeds throve luxuriantly, occasionally
hiding the winding path from view, the sound of voices

NATIVES SURPRISED. 13]

ahead attracted my attention. I stopped under the shade of
a young cocoa-nut tree to observe who it might be, and soon
perceived a little family group of strangers — a kind of ad*
vanced guard of some new nation — consisting of two men,
with their wives and some children. I had remarked in
other Polynesian islands, and I found it so here, that in
opposing tribes there are always a select few who, either
from mutual relationship or religious privileges, can unmo-
lested visit either place, — and such I supposed this group to
be. The women trotted on in front, carrying baskets, of
food, looking back from time to time to chat with the men,
who were armed with their spears. Their conversation was
evidently about the foreigners who had landed on these
islands, the sight of whom was looked forward to with the
utmost eagerness. They had approached close to the spot
where I stood when I suddenly made my appearance to
them. The women, on thus beholding me so unexpectedly,
screamed with fright, dropped their burthens, and fled
behind the men for protection. The latter, though nearly
as much alarmed, threw themselves at once into an atti-
tude of defence, brandishing their spears in a threatening
manner as they pronounced the words I had so frequently
heard, "Co ai coe?" The children, who were walking
behind, fled screaming into the forest, and were lost sight of
in a moment. To run away, or even evince fear under such
circumstances, would have been to provoke instant death,
for if I had fled their spears would undoubtedly have been
sent after ma I therefore put on as pleasant a face as I
could, and held out my hand in a frank conciliatory manner.
They hesitated about making too ready an acquaintance;
but as I approached within reach, they, one after the other,
placed their hands in mine, giving the back instead of the
palm to my grasp, showing that they were unacquainted with
our manner of salutation. They also saluted us in their own

K 2

182 PRESERVATION OP PERSONAL DIGNITY.

peculiar manner with a kiss — not on the mouth, which they
consider disgusting. After a time, however, some of the
better-looking young damsels appeared to concur with us in
thinking that our mode of performing the ceremony was
by no means so disagreeable as they had at first deemed it.

After the salutation, called " shungai," at a hint from the
men the ladies, throwing off their pariews, which they never
keep on while performing this dance, favoured me with the
''shukai" (before described) — a little private entertain-
ment on my own account, for which, I suppose, I should
have been much obliged ; but I was well pleased when we
separated, though they were evidently delighted with their
new acquaintance.

When I arrived at home I found the house deserted ; and
as my hunger was still unappeased, I searched the baskets
suspended from the house for food of some kind, but they
were empty. I looked at the tall cocoa-nut trees, which
bore fruit that, though generally anything but inviting to
me, I would gladly have partaken of; but the labour of
ascending these trees is very great, and not without danger.
Besides, such work would have humbled me in the opinion of
the natives, and if I commenced to labour for my own food
I should be obliged to continue it. Besides, it is only the
poorest natives that do so, the more opulent having others
to do such things for them. If I were obliged to do what I
had no great capacity for, I should sink to the lowest scale
in the estimation of the natives. At present I was evidently
considered a superior being, and while so regarded could
easily maintain my supremacy, and, if necessary, increase it.
So I made up my mind to starve a little longer rather than
risk my position.

Returned to the place of rendezvous, I found all hands
employed in carrying the materials from the wreck to the
summit of the beach (the highest portion of the land being

CUSTOMS IN WAR. 133

only about twelve feet above high water), to am open space,
where a good view of the ocean was to be had, and from
which any ship passing might be seen, making it a desirable
locality for the proposed house. I had not long joined in
the labour when a tremendous excitement among the natives
again disturbed us. The men, with wild and broken expres-
sions, hurried from place to place, gathering rapidly into
armed knots; while the women, screaming, carried off
bundles of such valuables as they possessed, evidently to
secrete them. Had I not already observed how much fuss
these people make about the slightest matter, I should have
said they expected a total massacre.

Our little band was hastily collected, and we were made
aware that a hostile tribe was approaching, for we were all
presented for the first time with arms, either a spear or club.
A spear of some ten or twelve feet long, of sharply-pointed
cocoa-nut wood, was handed to me. These instruments,
some of which, I observed, were pointed with fish-bones, are
called " taus." The long, light, paddle-shaped club used by
the women is called a " coerari," and is used in battle prin-
cipally for breaking the spears of the men of the opposite
party. The women, heading the onset, are rarely attacked
by the men, and it is seldom that any of them are hurt
except by accident, or by the Amazons opposed to them,
when there is a little bloodshed. The loss on either side,
however, is usually confined to a quantity of hair from the
head, which they lay hold of with great pertinacity, to dis-
play afterwards as a trophy, if they can appropriate it. To
prevent such a catastrophe the women on both sides gene-
rally cut off a considerable portion of their hair preparatory
to going into battle.

Before a general engagement it is not uncommon for the
belligerents to sit down at some distance from each other,
and survey their opponents in an apparently calm manner,

134 RECOVERY OF MT SWORD.

strangely at variance with their former excited state.
Speeches are made, which, if not of a conciliatory tendency,
are met by a shower of abusive and derisive epithets, with
which their language is well supplied. At the distance of
perhaps a hundred feet stones and spears are discharged, the
latter with much precision, though the natives, by the exer-
cise of great agility, are often able to avoid them. Both
sides accompany their movements with the most frightful
noises and grimaces, to intimidate the enemy.

As I walked, or rather ran, amongst the crowd, a woman
passed near me, bearing, to my astonishment and delight,
my sword, which I had left behind me in the vessel. I
sprang towards her, and had no difficulty in securing what I
justly (under the circumstances) considered a prize, as I
knew something of its use, whilst the spear would have been
of little value to me. The woman, who was too much
frightened at my sudden attack to offer any resistance, at
once dropped the sword on my seizing her arm. " A fair
exchange is no robbery/' said I, handing her the spear,
which she took with a rueful countenance. I now felt a
degree of confidence that I had not enjoyed since I first set
foot on the island. With such a trusty weapon the slight
wooden spears of the natives were little to be dreaded in a
close, sheltering forest ; not that I intended to join in the
anticipated combat if I could possibly avoid it. I presumed
I had met the advanced guard of the enemy this morning,
and they seemed as friendly towards me as the people
amongst whom I now lived. I felt in the position of the
woman who, watching the fight between her husband and
the bear, said, " she did not care which beat." I was pre-
pared to join the strongest side, having neither profit nor
honour to fight for.

Our quick march carried us some half mile farther north
on the island than I had yet been, to the borders of a little

FLATTERING TESTIMONY OF APPROVAL. 135

fresh- water lake in tbe centre, having only a narrow passage
of sandy beach between it and the salt lagoon to the right.
On either side of the lake a dense mass of the tall hara weeds
afforded an excellent cover for an opposing force, the open
space to be crossed exposing the attacking party to the fire
of a hidden enemy. On reaching this point, a halt was
called, and whilst we lingered under cover we could see by
the quantity of spears and clubs, and the heads rising above
the hara weeds, that a powerful party was opposed to us,
apparently as numerous as our own, with our allies, the
Mutagohichians, who accompanied us. The word " O Muka,"
which I heard constantly repeated, informed me that the foe
were from the island of that name. After much discussion,
of which I understood nothing, friendly relations were
established, and the opposing parties mingled together, but
still with apparent distrust. A position was awarded to the
visitors as ground for their encampment; and we had once
more to undergo the ceremony of the pehu, during which,
as we sat with our weapons laid on the ground, my sword
was again stolen, and I did not see it for many months
after. This concluded, the usual curiosity evinced itself in
these people with regard to us. We were examined again ;
our dress was regarded with wonder; and as their olfactory
nerves seem to be particularly sensitive, we had to submit
anew to the ordeal of smell.

One young lady of the new comers, an apparent belle,
after placing her nose against me, repeated the words " Na
kakaria ;" and as I knew they resembled an expression in the
Marquesas for "sweet-smelling," I "laid the flattering
unction to my soul" that I had found favour in her eyes,
and endeavoured to be as amiable as possible towards her;
but she fled on my approach. Our fair skins did not
seem to be appreciated by these dark beauties, unless as a
matter of wonder; and with few exceptions the younger

136 RELATIVES.

females generally fled from us either in fear or dislike
But if I was astonished at this antipathy, so different
from the feeling with which the soft and winning islanders
of the South Seas generally regarded us, I was still
more surprised at the great interest evinced by the few
I have excepted. The agueish old women were the most
affectionate, clapping their breasts and exclaiming invariably,
" Matua Oahenfe." The younger ones used the same expres-
sion, but with more reserve. The word, I soon learned,
meant a mother, but in a more general sense, a relation. One
old lady, all scars and scores, who rushed after me with
dishevelled locks, embraced me as her dearly-beloved nephew,
and perhaps introduced me as such to a loving uncle. This
girl that steals forward rather timidly, is anxious to be on
good terms with her newly-found cousin; and that young
woman holds aloft a plump little naked savage, whom, like
an affectionate uncle, I am to clasp to my bosom as a sister's
child.

The worst of it was, I soon found I had so many relatives,
even fathers and mothers, that I was always forgetting my
nearest connexions, and falling into ridiculous mistakes.
The laws of the island forbid marriage with any relative as
near as a second cousin ; and I occasionally horrified some
young lady, who proved to be a near relation, by the
tender advances which in amorous moments I made to her,
with the most honourable intentions.

In these relationships they have some strange observances.
A mother can kiss her son, but he must not embrace his
mother; a sister and brother, on meeting after a long
absence, cannot fondly rush into each other's arms, but
must sit down facing each other, and nod their heads, one
to one side the other to the opposite ; and the adopted child
may not touch the food the parents have to eat, as in that
case they dare not use it.

EXHIBITION OF MY ACQUIREMENTS. 137

A tall handsome aunt of mine, notwithstanding her dis-
approval of my love-making, seemed to take a particular
fancy to me, and used all her eloquence to induce me to go
with her people to "Omuka." Taking from her neck a
thick bunch of finely-plaited human hair, such as we see
guard-chains made of at home, she placed it round mine.
Nothing, however, could have induced me to leave Mange-
rongaro at present, where all hands were necessary to further
the work for our escape; although I intended, if possible,
before leaving, to see more of the place fortune had cast
me on.

Little was done towards our work this day. On my return
home I found several visitors, for whom, to my delight, they
had "killed the fatted calf" (or at least hog), which they
seemed to relish amazingly, eating the fattest part without any
accompaniment, and devouring four times the quantity that
an English ploughman could dispose of. Notwithstanding
my ravenous hunger, a very small portion of it satisfied me,
that falling to my share being entirely fat, which they seemed
to relish most. During supper my fond parents began to
show off my acquirements to their visitors. I had already
learned that " co-ai" had something to do with inquiring
the name of anything, and had ascertained the name of my
father, " Opai Tangata," my mother, " Moshishe," and of
my brothers, Taranga, Mahauta, and Naratairo, three nice
youths. To their inquiries during supper of what was the name
of such or such a one, made in an insinuating voice, as if ad-
ressed to a spoiled child, I answered, I fear, in rather coarse
language in my own tongue, for I was not pleased that they
had not kept for me any of the lean of the hog- Even with
my roughness, however, they seemed better pleased than
with my more usual silence, and continued to coax till I
had finished supper, when feeling in a better humour, I
indulged them by repeating not only all the names I had

13$ FIRST INTRODUCTION TO A PIG.

learned, but those of some of the visitors mentioned to me.
Of this they seemed never to tire, and at each repetition an
exclamation of surprise or amusement followed, as " A wai !"
"Aha-ha-ha-a!" "TemichiOpaiTangata!" ("Astonishing!"
"Well done! 11 "The child of Opai Tangata!") until I
became so tired of the folly that, though it was not yet quite
sunset, I retired to rest. After I left them, they went to the
quarters of a pig I had tied to a cocoa-nut tree, which, pro-
bably not having got its supper, they found almost as silent
and unaccommodating as myself. They kept at a respectful
distance from it for some time, but gradually advanced till
one of them pricked it with the end of his spear, when
it uttered a deep grunt, which sent them flying in all
directions. One or two sought shelter in my shanty, and
tremblingly inquired, " Co ai ho manu ?" (" What do you
call that bird ?") for so I knew the term " manu" meant over
all Polynesia. Amused before, I now laughed outright at
their absurdity, my mirth bringing in the whole tribe, who
all repeated the question. I thought of the old adage, " A
pig may fly, but he is a very unlikely bird/' As long as I
laughed the simple natives most heartily joined me, repeating
the question, and evidently believing there was fun in it,
though the point was unknown to them. Their mistake
was, however, in some degree intelligible. They had never
seen an animal larger than a very small rat, that lives prin-
cipally in the cocoa-nut trees ; and being acquainted with
many large sea-fowl, they had rather hastily arrived at the
conclusion that the pig was a bird.

139

CHAPTER VI.

Recovery of Valuable Instruments — Construction of a Boat — The
Doctor and his Party — Search for Nails — Native Pilfering —
MahautaNue — The Great Chief — Native Dances — Discovery
of another Sister — Threatened Attack of the Tapukans — Night
Attack repulsed — Ideas of the Natives — Timber on the Island
-^-Construction of Native Canoes — Varieties of the Cocoa-nut —
Ororo— The Utc— Construction of Huts and Manufacture of
Arms — Preparation of Food — Supper — Expedition in Search of
Cocoa-nuts — Native Legend of their Origin — Land Crabs —
Further Progress in the Language — A Family Island — Curious
Custom — Commotion excited by the Doctor — Another Dis-
turbance—Don Juan—- Annoying Conduct of the Captain — Old
Monitu — Journey to Matunga — A New Proposal of Adoption
— Molly Bawn — Meeting with " my Aunt."

The following day, though often interrupted by the new
comers, we had gathered together as much of the wreck as
we considered sufficient to build a house and complete the
boat. The captain's sextant and nautical works had been
strangely preserved and recovered from the natives, and the
chronometer belonging to the ship had been found by one of
the sailors under a tree, the second day after landing, still
going. It had been taken from the mate, when trying to
save it on landing, by one of the natives, who, on looking
into it, and finding it alive as he supposed, got frightened,
and threw it away from him. We kept up this delusion
about the chronometer, and no matter how many were in the
house whenever it was wound up, on hearing the works
they hurried precipitately out, believing it to be a spirit. It

140 COMPLETION OF THE BOAT-HOUSE.

was perhaps wrong to abuse their credulity, but as this was
an object so essential to our salvation, we thought fit to keep
them in dread of it, or they would have endeavoured — as
they did with everything we set a value on — to steal it
from us.

A few days afterwards I found a chart of the South
Pacific, which completed all that we required for navigating
our proposed craft. This chart I have still, with the captain's
track marked on it to the Fenrhyn Islands, and an ob-
servation taken on the spot, showing indisputably where we
then were; although, in the letter he published after his
escape, that individual declared " he was wrecked on an
island not laid down on any chart or nautical work in his
possession."

The house was completed — a rude frame, the roof covered
with sails from the wreck, and the sides of irregular boards,
to prevent the entrance of the thievish natives, for anything
that we required they immediately coveted, having sense
enough to believe there must be some value attached to it,
though it might appear useless to them. The boat was now
drawn up near the house, but we had many difficulties yet
to encounter. We had neither pitch nor nails, neither boat-
plank nor proper tools. Provisions, being below in the ship,
had gone to the bottom, but a very small quantity of to-
bacco, fortunately for those habituated to its use, had been
recovered. This had been placed in the hands of the doctor,
by whom it was sparingly distributed from a scarlet Chinese
chest, in which he had secured it, and which greatly excited
the cupidity of the natives.

When the house was finished the doctor was regularly
installed as its head, and most indefatigably he stuck to his
post, rarely if ever leaving it. Several of us would willingly
have relieved him, but he resolutely declined, though he
growled about his confinement. His temper, not the most

FRANKS. 141

amiable at best, was soured by what he had now to endure ;
being a man incapable of philosophically putting up with
trifling inconveniences. The food, the uncomfortable
lodging, and the habits of the natives so irritated him,
that it was far from pleasant to be much in his company.
This to me was rather disappointing, as he was the only one
who would have formed a suitable companion, being an
educated and really intelligent man.

Dr. ft., however, had with him two companions more
congenial to his taste, although they differed very much in
character, except that they were both most extravagant
liars and cringing sycophants. Joe, a rude, illiterate English
sailor, who since his residence on the Marquesas had dreaded
and hated the whole Kanaka race, and was as great a
coward as bully, had seen the bold front with which from
the first the doctor had met his dreaded enemies, and had
at once placed himself under his protection, bearing with-
out a murmur the insults which he heaped on him.
Frankfe, our former steward, was a handsome young man,
rather addicted to flattering those who he thought might be
useful to him. He had lived much amongst the natives of
the Society Islands, with whom he had been a great beau —
in fact, a rather refined specimen of what sailors understand
as a " beach-comber/' Franke, who was rather delicate in
health, and whose weakness was aggravated by his life in the
islands, having managed to make the doctor believe that he
would be useful to him, had thus secured a place in his
family. Here he found the beautiful Tokarora, the belle of
all Sararak, and the adopted daughter of "Opaka/' the
doctor's father, not only the greatest beauty, but the richest
heiress on the island — to whom he thought it might be
advantageous to him to pay court.

In commencing the boat, our chief want was nails, for we
had procured the use of some tools that the natives by

142 PROVOCATION OF QUARRELS.

diving had recovered from the wreck. A quantity of hatchets,
knives, and files that we had had on board for trading
had also been found. One of the sailors had foolishly
shown them how nails might be used in making matas, or
fish-hooks, &£., and from that time every nail, every piece
of wood with nails in it, had to be secreted from their
sharp eyes. We therefore kept a fire constantly burning,
into which, when unobserved, we threw such pieces of
of timber as contained nails; and at night, or by dawn,
we searched amongst the ashes for our prizes, for during
the day we had always a crowd of natives about the house,
watching for opportunities to carry off whatever they set
their covetous eyes on.

Their constant attempts at robbery indeed provoked quar-
rels that continually threatened to terminate in a general
rupture. These rows were most commonly commenced by
Dr. B.., not only on account of attempted thefts, but of
other peculiar habits of the islanders to which he could never
accommodate himself. When his food was brought to him,
for instance, by the fair Tokarora, she would come in com-
pany with a young man of her household, a near relative,
and of course equally related to the doctor.. The native,
with the usual habit of the people, would lift a bowl of
neu oara to his nose, to ascertain whether the flavour was
such as to recommend it to their illustrious relative, to whom
he would then hand it with a complimentary speech, for
which his only reward would be a blow on "the head with the
doctor's stick. The irritated islanders would then fly in all
directions for their spears, whilst the white men rushed to-
wards the house with such weapons as they could lay their
hands on — generally pieces of wood or iron. We had also
one of my pocket-pistols, which, with a few cartridges Juan,
the Chileno, had found, and brought me some days after
we landed. The noise made by this weapon when dis-

MAHAUTA NUi. 143

charged, and its destructive power, greatly intimidated the
natives.

Our work on the whole progressed bat slowly, particu-
larly for the first fortnight, during which time we were
constantly receiving visits from some of the neighbouring
islanders, by whose presence our labours were perpetually
interrupted.

The " pehu" on these occasions was attended by all except
the doctor and myself. The doctor could not be prevailed on
to sanction these solemnities by his presence; but at the
earnest solicitations of my friends I attended that of the
great kingdom of Tepuka, the terror of all the group, the
Typee of the Penrhyn Islands, with its illustrious chief,
" Mahauta Nue," or Mahauta the Great. This island (some
eight miles distant from Mangerongaro) only perceptible on
clear days, had been mysteriously pointed out to me by one
of the natives, whose serious and angry looks, coupled with
the words " Mahauta Nue/' sufficiently indicated the fear
that name inspired.

I was anxious to see this great warrior, whose visit
took place one morning about a week after our arrival.
From the excitement produced not only amongst the people
of our own island, but the strangers encamped, I could easily
comprehend the estimation he was held in. On arriving at
the edge of the lagoon, where the people of Tepuka still held
a parley with those on shore, I saw by the number and size of
their canoes that the island inhabited by them must be the
most populous of the group. Negotiations being concluded,
our party were marched off to a convenient open space for
performing the pehu. One group after another arrived from
the different canoes, for the people having to bring their food
with them, disembarking is an occupation that takes some
time. At last a buzz of " Mahauta Nu^ !" announced the ap-
proach of the great chief. I looked, expecting to see one of

144 INVITATION TO TEPUKA.

the tallest and wildest savages I had yet beheld, but on the
contrary saw a man not much above the middle height,
whose corpulency made him appear even short in stature.
His head was covered with thick clustering curls, partially
sprinkled with grey; his large, frank, good-natured face
was surrounded by bushy whiskers and beard ; and he had a
fine expansive forehead, beneath which beamed an eye bright
with good-nature and even benevolence.

After the pehu, the shukai and one or two other dances were
performed by the men in a circle, with their hands joined.
Mahauta ordered all their movements, running from place to
place with an alacrity that I could scarcely have credited in
one of his habit of body. Occasionally he joined in the per-
formance, evidently to show them what to do, but more com-
monly stood in the centre with me, who, as chief of the
party in the absence of Dr. R., was now acknowledged by all
to be the great man of the strangers.

He had of course a thousand questions to ask, and much
to tell me, in which the name of his island figured conspicu-
ously. He was sadly disappointed when he discovered that
though he shouted at the top of his voice close to my face, I
could not comprehend him. Taking my hand he hurried off
with me in his usual quick manner to the beach, pointing to
the canoes and to Tepuka. I shook my head, pointing towards
where we were employed at the boat. He impatiently waved
his hand, and delivered a long oration in the most voluble
manner, repeating " Tepuka su marfe " very frequently, by
which I understood he meant "Tepuka very good," to
which of course I always acceded ; and when he said, €S A
kino Sararak," I nodded assent, at which he was highly
delighted, a circumstance from which I concluded that " a
kino" meant " bad." He had with him a sweet young girl
of some ten years (at home the same form would have repre-
sented fifteen or sixteen), who was almost constantly by his

LITTLE "MABY, 145

side, and whom he occasionally drew in a caressing manner
under his large arm, beneath which she seemed to nestle in
pleased security. She was slight and delicate, with no re-
semblance whatever to her father, Mahauta, except in a cer-
tain amiable expression common to both. A boy, on the
other hand (evidently her brother), who shared only a portion
of the father's love, was his very image, save that he had not
quite so pleasing a countenance.

The little girl, on being spoken to by her father, hastened
to a canoe, from which she speedily brought forth a cooked
fish, done up in leaves, and some cooked neu oaro, together
with a cocoa-nut bowl containing a kind of shellfish (also
dressed) which I had not yet seen, resembling clams. These
I found particularly agreeable, and to express my estimation
of them repeated the words, " Su mare," at which the little
girl clapped her hands in ecstasies, running to her father
to tell him of my approval. Removing the fish from its cover
of leaves, and having got over the fear and timidity which
she at first evinced, with her delicately pointed fingers (these
people have the most perfectly formed hands I ever beheld)
she took the bones from the fish, and raised it towards my
mouth — an excess of politeness on her part with which I
would fain have dispensed. As it seemed to give her much
pleasure, however, I permitted myself to be fed from a pair
of hands that Nature had surely shaped for a model. When
I had finished eating I would have rewarded my little hostess
with a kiss, but, starting back in horror, she exclaimed,
"Matua oahene ! Tu oahene oau I" "lama relative — a
sister I" thus informing me of what I did not know before,
that I had been adopted as a son of the great chief.

Whilst sitting here the little girl asked me my name. I
answered, " Mai take/ 1 Her next question was, did I know
hers, to which I promptly replied, " Mary." At this she
laughed heartily, and calling her father told him her name

L

146 UNPLEASANT RESIDENCE.

was Mary, " Mark oau." This he made her say over fre-
quently, calling those around to listen to it, and repeating it
himself with evident pleasure. •

I now rose to depart, to their great disappointment. They
had even set their minds on carrying me with them ; and
when I left a flash of anger shot from the eyes of Mahauta,
warning me that his character had its fierce as well as its
gentle aspect. Little " Mary" must have seen it also, for
she shrank cowering down, hiding her face in her beautiful
hands. Was it possible these were the fierce Tepukians, and
that this kind and loving father was the savage Mahauta !
1 felt almost sorry that 1 had not gone with them. Duty
compelled me to remain till our work was completed, but if
I could afford time before the boat left I decided on visiting
his and some of the other islands of the group.

The Tepukians did not return from their encampment
that evening, nor for three subsequent days. The Kanakas
of our crew, who to some extent understood the language of
these people, informed us that, disappointed in a fair share
of the plunder of the wreck, they were determined to attack
the house. On hearing this, I decided on taking up my
quarters in it, for although the doctor might make himself
disagreeable, our hopes of escape were all collected there,
and that was my chief object at present. Therefore, during
the remainder of the stay of the Tepukians (three or four
days), I took up my abode at the house. This was one of
the most unpleasant periods of my life on these islands.
Besides the constant anticipation of an attack by the natives,
it rained throughout each night a perfect deluge. The other
three residents of the house had selected spots to lie on
where the rain penetrated less than at other points, but I
had to shift from place to place wherever the shower-bath
was occasionally less violent. If I slept for a time, it was
generally to awake in a pool of water. Nor were the nights

A TREACHEROUS ATTACK FOILED, 147

the worst, for in the daytime I could not venture forth for
food, though I was starving, and my family friends would not
bring it to me, anticipating danger at our little castle. They
were most anxious for me to leave, however, but the more
they pressed me the more resolved I was to remain.

On the second day of my absence from my maternal resi-
dence, my respected mother came with some food for me,
which she showed temptingly at the door. As I advanced
towards her, however, she retreated, holding it out as an
inducement for me to follow her, as we might tempt a child
with some sweets. Hungry as I was I gave up the absurd
chase, and that evening lay down after a day's fasting on
a sleepless resting-place.

The night we divided into watches as nearly as we could
guess the time, three sleeping whilst one stood sentry at the
door. On one occasion, during my watch, just before day-
break, when I was bethinking myself to search the ashes of
our fire, which, in spite of considerable rain, I had managed
to keep alive all night, its light shining on the dark skin of
an Indian stealing towards the house betrayed the approach
of an enemy, and not of one alone, for a moment after, be-
hind a fallen log a little beyond the fire, I saw the gleaming
eyes of another. I was completely hidden in the shade of
the doorway, and knowing how easily they were frightened,
when taken by surprise in the execution of any evil intent,
I seized a piece of hoop-iron I had fashioned into the appear-
ance of a sword, and with a shout dashed from my conceal-
ment at the figure beyond the fire, who, together with some
others that had approached, took to his heels, and ran to-
wards the Matunga encampment, a short distance off. As
they approached it their cries brought out the whole popula-
tion with spears poised to resist what they supposed to be
an attack. I found it was now time to halt, but dared not
retreat, for if I had turned my back they would most pro-

l 2

148 KETURN TO MY HOME-CIRCLE.

bably have hurled their spears. Their shouts, however,
roused the encampment on another island, the natives of
which, supposing they were about to be attacked, raised their
cry to arms and this drew the attention of the Matungians
in that quarter, when I quietly retired. Such little events
were of daily occurrence, and kept us always in an excited
state.

On the third day, in passing a house near our place, a
woman called me to her and handed me a piece of yam that
had been carried from our ship. Now yam was one of the
few things that I never could eat on board ; but although on
the present occasion it was only half cooked, I thought I
had never eaten anything so delicious in my life. During
the two following days I called at the same place, at the
same time, and on each occasion received a small piece of
yam. This for four days was all I had to live on, so that
I was delighted when the Tcpukians took their departure.
Had I told the doctor the state of hunger I was in, he
would, no doubt, have readily shared his allowance with
me, but this I could not conscientiously do, as he had
little enough for himself.

At last the various islanders ceased their visits, and we
were left in comparative quiet. Having lately withdrawn
from my home-circle, and kept aloof generally from their cere-
monies and amusements, the people had begun to look on
me with dislike, and this the bad temper I was in from
sickness and hunger no doubt increased. Now, however,
when my friends were able to remain at home instead of
being out all day watching their food-lands for fear of the
depredations that might be committed by their visitors, and
I was released from my duties at the house, my return was
hailed with joy by all.

Coming home one evening with one of the little boys of
our house, I learned the names of all the islands of the group.

TE PITAKA. 149

I also asked him the name of all collectively, hut it was some
time before he could comprehend my meaning. At last,
however, the idea struck him ; he clapped his hands, and
shouted, " Te Pitaka !" which I concluded was the native
name of the Penrhyn Islands. I subsequently found, how-
ever, that "Te Pitaka" meant "The Circle/' and might be
equally applied to a finger-ring or a circle of islands. Their
idea of the whole group, thirty-five miles round, was doubt-
less too great for them to dream of calling the islands
collectively by one name. This was their world, and
though they knew that another land must exist where these
great ships came from, one that they called "Te Tera
range/' or "The Land beyond the Sky/' they could not
conceive of its being so large as their entire circle, or " Te
Pitaka."

When, in my attempts to instruct these people, I informed
them about the various other nations of the world, their
extent and population, they could not realize facts so
far beyond their comprehension. Had I told them that
Great Britain or Russia was as large as Sararak, some four
or five miles long and a quarter broad, they might have be-
lieved me. To tell them either was as large as " Te Pitaka"
would have been risking my character for veracity; but
if I had succeeded in enabling them to understand the
simple truth, they would still have regarded it as utterly
impossible.

As I was little wanted now at the house, except occasion-
ally to gather such portions of the wreck as might be useful
to us in our shipbuilding process (the carpenter work being
confined to the captain and one or two of the sailors), I spent
more of my time at home or wandering through the island.
I visited the houses of all the other men of our crew, and
found few of them so comfortably situated as myself. All
got enough to eat, but complained sadly of the constant

150 OUB HOUSEHOLD AT TAHITI.

cocoa-nut food, with which they were perfectly satiated.
This, though it seemed to disagree with me more than any of
them, I felt the smallest of my miseries.

On entering the house of old Bill I saw several articles
from the wreck — amongst the rest a number of cakes of
soap. These he had endeavoured to explain the use of, but
they could not comprehend ; and as I saw how valuable it
might be when my clothes became dirty, I determined to
have some of it if possible. I lifted a piece, smelled it as
they do, pretended to taste it, and, in apparent disgust,
threw it a considerable distance from the hut. They laughed
heartily, repeating, " E, e, a kino !" They had evidently
been tasting it themselves, and, as I afterwards learned,
finding it bad in its raw state, thought it required cooking,
which, as may be believed, did not make it more palatable.
Shortly after I left the house, and, proceeding to the place where
I had thrown the soap, kicked it before me till out of sight
of the natives, when I picked it up and carried it home. I
never enjoyed the benefit of it, however, for it was stolen
the next day, perhaps for a second cooking experiment.

At another house I found a quantity of feathers emptied
out of a mattress that they might use the cloth. Of
these I collected as much as, sewed up in a piece of sail-
cloth, made me a little pillow, which was subsequently a
great comfort to me, as I generally carried it with me in
moving through the islands. This was not, however, till I
had injured my Panama hat, that I had been in the habit
of folding up to save my head from the hard log, which
always gave me a headache.

Our household at Tahiti (I called our place the " Cb&teau")
yent on now in perhaps the same monotonous way as it had
done before we arrived amongst them. With the dawn of
day all hands turned out to the beach to perform ablutions, &c.
The boys betook themselves to some land yet unknown to me

CONSTBUCTION OF A CANOE. 151

for a supply of cocoa-nuts for the clay's consumption.
My respected father, in conjunction with my still more
sedate and very stupid uncle, worked at a small canoe that
seemed almost completed when I first saw it, but which, at
the rate they progressed, must have been years in construc-
ting ; and from the way in which these canoes are made, and
the means of building them at their disposal, this is not to be
wondered at. On these islands grow a few large trees
of a species called by them " To/' not the ito, or iron
wood of the other islands, but rather a soft wood, different
from anything I had observed amongst them. When this
has arrived at maturity, being then three or four feet in
diameter, it is felled — a work which formerly, with their
little tokfe, or adze, made from the queen conch, must have re-
quired indefatigable labour, but which with the axes they now
have, and hoop-iron for their tokfes, is more speedily and easily
performed. The trunk is rolled to the beach of the lagoon,
where the action of the sea, the alternate damp and heat
as the water flows over it and then leaves it to dry, partially
decomposes or softens it sufficiently to enable them to split
it into pieces of various sizes, the longest and narrowest of
which are selected to form a kind of keel about a foot broad,
rounded at the bottom and hollow inside. From this they hew
out the canoe. The keel slopes gradually up at either end till
it rises above water-mark, terminating in a solid point called
the isu, or nose. Various pieces, no matter how irregular in
shape, are now cut exactly to fit into each other. These are
rounded off with much labour, and polished up with a kind
of substance, half-coral, half-sponge, that is found on the
rocks in the lagoon, and is used as sand-paper. The edges of
the pieces intended to match each other are marked with burnt
wood, the uneven parts being smoothed till they are made
closely to fit. The boring of holes along the margin of each
piece with a sharp stone or shell, assisted by a sharp-pointed

1 52 UTENSILS.

cocoa-nut stick, is, as may be conceived, an almost endless
work. The different parts are now united with cement made
from the husk of the cocoa-nut steeped in water and pounded
like flax ; the same material being used for oakum to stop
the seams and holes when the pieces are sewed together.
The body of the canoe is not built the whole length of the
keel. The solid parts before-mentioned, projecting out of the
water, serve as an imaginary cut- water, but, I think, rather
retard than assist its progress. However, they prevent the
bow or stern, both of which are bluff, from sinking into the
trough of a wave, and protect the canoe from the rocks with
which they must sometimes come in contact. As speed
can be no great object with such a people, no doubt the
canoe suits their purposes. The upper tier of pieces has a
broad ledge, on which the propellers sit { whilst a seat in
front and rear projects over the isu for the guider and steers-
man. The paddle is long, the blade narrow and curved.

I wondered at first why they did not excavate their canoes
from the trunk of the tree by fire, but I subsequently found
that as there were only some dozen of these trees on the
whole group, there would not have been timber enough for
the number of canoes they required if made in that way.
Cocoa-nut wood is unsuited for the purpose, as it sinks in
water, is very hard to work, and decays readily. Their
a comities/' or bowls, the only utensils they have except
cocoa-nut shell cups, are also made of this wood. Their
tokfe or adze handles, together with their shark hooks, and
occasionally the framework of their houses, are made of
a kind of shrub, with a slight perfume, resembling myrtle.
Everything else is made from the cocoa-nut tree, except their
"tufes" (spoonB), or "mataus" (fish-hooks), of pearl shell.
When they can obtain no fish, which their wars sometimes
prevent them from venturing from their homes to catch, the
little nutriment received from the pandanas and cocoa-nut is

pood. 153

their sole food. The cocoa-nut, so important an item in the
economy of savage life, has different names in its various
stages. In its earliest for use it is called " makumako." The
vai manga is the top of the young cocoa-nut before it has be-
come husk. It has a vegetable taste like that of a bitter
turnip, and is eaten by the natives to fish. The water in ,
the inside is used for drinking. The " neu mata" is the
half-grown nut with soft pulp, from which is principally made
the " neu oara." The " moto moto" is the ripe cocoa-nut,
with the husk still green, and from it is made the " poey," in
the same manner as the neu oara, only more coarsely scraped.
This is commonly dressed in wooden bowls at their feasts,
when there are many to be served, and is not considered so
delicate as the " neu oara." Then there is the " mangaro," a
particular kind of cocoa-nut, the husk of which when chewed
has a sweet flavour like sugar-cane, and when cooked is very
sweet and nutritious. The water it contains, however, is
exceedingly bitter, and supposed to be injurious. The old,
dried cocoa-nut, called "sakarfe," such as is imported to
Europe, is never eaten, but, with the liquor in it, called by
us milk, is considered deleterious, and thrown away. I
have known very bad consequences arise from its use. The
sakarfc is reserved principally for making "ororo," one of
the greatest treats they can offer to a visitor, and an in-
variable accompaniment of their feasts. It is also given to
sick persons, being a laxative, and the only medicine they
wre acquainted with.

To make ororo well requires some skill, and is the
highest accomplishment of Te Pitaka. It is made of the old
sakare finely scraped, to which is added a certain portion of
the vegetable part of the young nut before alluded to, the
acid of which produces slight fermentation. A proper
proportion of cocoa-nut water is added, with a small
quantity of neu mata. Some of this mixture is placed

154 THE COCOA-NUT.

in the husk of a certain cocoa-nut, after being well pounded,
washed, and cleansed of its powdery portions, leaving only a
fibrous substance, and the juice is expressed with a churning
motion, producing a white, milky substance, which, as it in-
creases in the bowl, foams up like new milk from the cow,
and has a pleasant look.

The illness I felt from my new mode of diet attracted the
attention of my native relatives, who prepared a bowl of
ororo for me, and its attractive appearance at once induced
me to swallow a quantity of it before I perceived its strong,
oily flavour. I would have stopped, but they all exclaimed,
"Aino! aino!" (" Drink! drink!") so earnestly, doubtless
believing that it would do me good, that I managed to swal-
low a cocoa-nut shellfull of it. It had indeed an effect, and
a very instantaneous one, for it acted as an emetic, and I
became deadly sick — a feeling which I never knew it to pro-
duce with the natives, who will drink upwards of a quart
with little inconvenience.

The " uto," a kind of fungous apple, that fills the space
formerly occupied by the water, when the fruit has begun to
sprout, is a real treat. To cultivate this, the sakare is
buried in the ground, and when supposed to be ready for
use is dug up and cooked, but only used on great occa-
sions.

The meat of the old nut is also sometimes burned black,
and by chewing it in a peculiar way the oil is extracted,
little or none of the saliva being mixed with it. With the
oil thus obtained they anoint their bodies. Even the greatest
belles in all Te Pitaka may be seen in the morning, particu-
larly if visitors are expected, chewing away at this black
cake, the white juice passing with a peculiar hissing sound
between the teeth to the hands, to be rubbed over the body,
which soon shines with the lustre so produced.

The cocoa-nut not only affords them their chief, sometimes

SPEARS AND CLUBS. 155

their entire food, medicine, and decoration, but also their
clothing, which I have already described in the tichd
and parieu. I should have mentioned at the same time that
the parieu is sometimes made large and double, serving them
as a dress by day, or as a covering by night, when it is
opened out. This is called a " cau sho," but is not in
general use.

Their houses or sheds are made of the cocoa-nut branches,
and their arms of the wood of the same tree. The manufac-
ture of the tau, or spear, requires all their ingenuity, and is
to them a troublesome task. A tree that bears no fruit is
selected, and by continued chopping with their tokfes is
felled, and cat into lengths of about twelve feet. Some
straight lines are then drawn along the log, and several
hands begin to chop along the line, through the hard sur-
face wood, till they arrive near the pithy centre. It is then
turned over, and when the opposite side is indented, wedges
of stone or wood are driven in along the chopped lines till
the log is split. It is thus divided into halves, quarters, and
eighths, which are moulded off into long, delicate spears with
the tokfc, and finally polished with the " poerare," a kind of
rasp, of fish skin, fastened on a stick. Many spears are
broken in this process, the wood being very brittle.

The "coerare/' or club, is of the same material, but
stronger, and ornamented with some carving on the blade
end. Their " akaha," or cordage, for fishing-lines and other
purposes is made from the husk of the cocoa-nut after being
steeped and beaten ; and their " totos," or bag-nets, the only
kind used by them, are made of this cordage. They also use
rolls of cocoa-nut leaves for fishing, as will be hereafter ex-
plained. The images of their gods are also made of this, to
them, most invaluable tree.

But to return to family affairs. When the boys are gone to
the distant " kaiing," as the food-lands are called, one of the

156 LIGHTING A FIRE.

men strikes fire by means of a small branch of soft wood
placed on the ground. Squatting opposite it, he holds it in
its place by one of his toes, whilst some one places a foot
on the opposite end for the same purpose. This piece
of stick having been previously cut flat on the upper side, a
pointed piece of harder wood, when it can be procured, is
held in the right hand obliquely against the lower piece,
something as we hold a pen, with the left hand pressing
on the fingers of the right to add force to it. It is at
first gently moved along the line, the motion being gradu-
ally quickened, till some brown dust is scraped up at one end
of the incision thus made, and the friction being then increased
in velocity, the wood finally smokes and takes fire. A dry
piece of poro, or husk, brought from the house where it is kept
for the purpose, readily ignites when the burning dust is de-
posited in it, and being waved backwards and forwards is
soon in a blaze. A fire is thus prepared, and by the time
the boys return the stones which are placed on the top of the
pile are sufficiently heated to form an oven. The women
scrape the food, and prepare it as before mentioned, for
breakfast. ' Sometimes cooking is dispensed with in the
morning, and indeed it was not until I made them under-
stand that the raw food made me sick, that they got into the
habit of dressing it regularly. Occasionally a light repast
from what was left the night before forms an early break-
fast, in which case a more ample meal is prepared about
noon.

During the day my quiet mother paid or received visits.
Squatting cross-legged, she conversed on the affairs not only
of her own island, but of all Te Pitaka ; for every one is
here known to the other, and no death, birth, or marriage
occurs on any island that is not soon heard of throughout the
group. Where so few incidents occur in their monotonous
lives such events are of course more than a nine days'

A PRECOCIOUS CHILD. 157

wonder. The extreme heat of the day is generally spent in
a siesta by every one. Women sometimes occupy them-
selves in plaiting mats or parieus, or making tichfes. My
mother, being a grave woman, and a great chieftainess, did
not seem much interested in her newly-adopted son; but
my aunt, a sister of my father's, and a poor relation — a very
fussy little woman too-— was most assiduous in her attentions.
It was she who generally scraped my food, though she had
two children of her own to look after. The eldest, a boy of
about eight years, a delicate, ill-tempered brat, was her
favourite, perhaps because every one else disliked him. He
sometimes went with my three younger brothers for food,
but not often, as he generally came home crying because the
unfeeling little wretches had amused themselves at his
expense by calling him "Mata pike" (crooked eyes, or
squint). These people have an inordinate amount of
vanity, and are exceedingly sensitive to ridicule, yet
have no delicacy in ridiculing others. This lad, whose
face generally had little pretensions to beauty, had de-
cidedly cross-eyes, which were to him a ceaseless cause
of grief from the remarks to which they exjx>sed him.
The sister, some four years old, was a most singular and
precocious child. Her large black eyes never seemed to
emit a ray of pleasure, nor did a smile ever play around her
compressed mouth. She already materially assisted in
household duties, which she set about always in the gravest
manner; her mother talking to her as if she were an old
woman, and imposing, as I thought, too much labour on
the child, whom, for some unaccountable reason, she did
not seem to like. When her mother was absent, she would
call her brother to her assistance ; and though he sometimes
proved recalcitrant, ordered him about like a little woman.
I generally interested myself in her behalf, but my kindness
did not seem to elicit from her any sentiment of gratitude, and

158 SUPPEB.

sb e showed unequivocal signs of distrust, though, unlike most
of the children, none of fear. Eventually, however, a complete
change took place in this respect. A bright look of pleasure
illumined her grave and melancholy face whenever I ap-
peared, and she came with delight to receive my accustomed
embrace. My attentions ameliorated her condition with her
mother ; but the imp of a brother, I soon found, punished
her in various ways in my absence, for she showed me the
marks of the little fiend's nails in her tender arms. This,
however, my threats, assisted by the terror with which he
regarded me, soon put a stop to.

Supper with these people is the principal meal ; and I soon
learned to appreciate it myself. When fish is to be had at
all, that is the time it is always used, fresh from the oven,
and served in great profusion. At this meal the natives
discuss the events of the day and the affairs of the island,
and every one seems happy and jolly.

I had proposed once or twice to accompany the boys to
the food-land, but this was always in a mysterious manner
objected to. I was not much surprised, because none of the
other people were permitted to wander far ftom their homes
when it could be prevented, lest they should go off to some
other island. At last, however, I insisted on going with
them one morning, and was reluctantly permitted by
the old people to go, greatly to the delight of the young
ones.

The boys, as we passed along, sung their wild island
songs, or joined in their grotesque dances, and tried to
amuse me by their ridiculous grimaces. When they
produced a laugh they were greatly delighted, all
joining in it to an extravagant extent. When we reached
the freshwater lake before-mentioned, it was almost
empty, and I found it rose and fell with the tide,
though it was but slightly brackish. It is used only for

JOURNEY TO THE FOOD-LAND. 159

bathing in, for which purpose it is greatly resorted to. Some
distance beyond this were what appeared to be the founda-
tions of stone walls, many of them intersecting our path. I
afterwards saw similar erections in other parts of the
island, but could never get a proper explanation of them,
the natives merely saying they had been houses, but appa-
rently knowing nothing more of them than I did. These
remains, like the huge stones of the maras, that are evidently
made of composition, though the natives believe them to
have come out of the sea, led me to believe that another race
must have at one time inhabited this little portion of the
globe — perhaps swept away by some catastrophe spreading
destruction over their island, to be replaced by the descend-
ants of others, thrown upon its shores in some chance canoe.
The legend of their origin told by the natives themselves, is
that Mahauta, a great chief, and Ocura, his wife, came from
the land beyond the sky, bringing cocoa-nut, hara, fish,
birds, &c. ; but of the origin of these architectural remains
they are utterly ignorant.

Crossing a shallow creek that connected the sea with
the lagoon, and landing on a small island, a most dreary
scene presented itself. The arid sands were at spots scantily
covered by creeping plants, and a few stunted pandana trees
only made the scene more bleak. Many cocoa-nut logs lay
stretched along the ground and across our path, mouldering
to decay, whilst numerous trees, still erect, but branchless,
and rotting where they stood, swayed to and fro in the
wind, threatening to crush the passer by in their fall.
The hot sun shone fiercely on our uncovered heads, and the
white sandy road burned like a lime-kiln, the heat flickering
from it in a like manner. Though the dazzling sands are
distressing to the eyes, there is, strange to say, little ophthal-
mia amongst the natives. The pain in my feet was the
worst to bear, for the shoes I came ashore in, a rough boot,

160 LAND CRABS AND LOBSTERS.

and a patent leather shoe, both for the same foot, that
Juan had found for me, were completely worn out. I
tried to make substitutes of palm-leaves, but they held to-
gether no time, so that I was reduced to Father Adam's
primitive foot-gear, and began to dread a reduction of my
whole costume to the same simple style.

The only residents of this dreary place were hosts of
tupas (land crabs) and cavios (land lobsters). These are held <
in the greatest abhorrence by the natives, because they eat
filth, and nothing could exceed their disgust when I made them
understand that these animals were much esteemed in other
countries. The land crabs, some nearly a foot long, are so
tame that they dispute the path with you, viciously spreading
out their great claws. The lobsters, although of the most
brilliant colours — scarlet, orange, blue, or green, marked with
white — are the most disgusting things imaginable, and are
generally to be seen in the evening stealthily crawling towards
the beach. On the approach of an enemy they hurriedly
retreat, stern foremost, pulling themselves back by their
tails, and pushing at the same time with their enormous
claws. If molested, they will start up a tree in this manner ;
their retreating motion, when ascending, having a most ab-
surd appearance. When they cannot readily escape, they
prepare for combat, and look very formidable. Though,
measuring about two feet in length, however, they are so
awkward in their movements that they are not really dan-
gerous, and a blow with a stick soon finishes them. I thus
killed one, to the great disgust of the boys, who believed
that it would pollute the ground, and would not take it up to
throw it into the sea. If by chance I afterwards amused
myself by pointing with the stick which had killed the un-
lucky animal, they would scamper off nearly crazy. The
boys screamed, " Kara oa to rakau 1" I repeated these
words inquiringly, motioning as though I threw away the

A TBADITION. 161

stick. " E, e, e \" was repeated earnestly. Showing the
stick, I said, " Rakau ?" and was answered in the affirma-
tive. I thus learned that " Kara oa rakau 1" meant
%t Throw away the stick/' and so gained each day a further
knowledge of their language, which is easily acquired, and,
ending in vowels as every word does, is not inharmonious.
It requires little assiduity to learn a language where you
hear no other used. These people are indefatigable talkers,
and, whether we understood them or not, they kept chatter-
ing away. They could not endure, however, to hear two or
more of us white men conversing in English, supposing,
perhaps, particularly if we laughed, that we were ridiculing
them. Although in such cases they would join us in the
laugh, they would also invariably beg us to desist.

I endeavoured to learn how the place through which we
were passing became a desert, and why not a single tree bore
a sheltering branch. The boys evidently understood my
question, but said nothing ; and it was not till long after-
wards that the mystery was solved. About twelve years
previously a solitary white man had landed on the island —
the first and only one before our appearance on it — and had
swum ashore near this spot from some ship or boat. The
savage appearance of the first natives he saw so frightened
him, that at their approach he again plunged into the sea for
refuge, but was speared and slain. Some time after this the
cocoa-nut trees in the neighbourhood died off, most likely
from old age, but, as the natives superstitiously believe, to
punish them for their merciless destruction of the white man.

After fording another narrower creek or estuary ,we arrived
atanisland something larger than the one just passed, partially
barren, but retaining still a considerable quantity of live
trees. This, I was informed, was the island of " Hangary,"
and belonged to our family. A considerable portion of it
was occupied by a more extensive " mara " than any I had

M

162 OLD MONITU.

yet seen, though, from the number of weeds that filled the
space and climbed round the huge grey stones, and also the
condition of the house in its centre, which was mouldering
to decay, it had evidently long been out of use. Anxious to
see what the place contained, I was about to enter it, when
violent screams of terror uttered by the boys arrested
my steps, and I was obliged to proceed with them towards a
point whence their cries had been answered. It was old
Monitu, whom we soon met running to see what was the
matter. When the boys told him, he at first looked incre-
dulous, but eventually laughed heartily at my boldness,
though, being himself a priest, I thought he would have
been angry. Perhaps, aware of the humbug he practised,
he was not astonished at its being despised. I marked this
at the time, and felt assured that it would be easy to impress
the natives with a more exalted idea of the Supreme Being
than that which they possessed. A pure religion is the fun-
damental principle of civilization, and these simple people
might be raised by its influence to as high a standard of
morality as any in the world. Witness the offspring of the
mutineers of the Bounty on Pitcairn's Island, a band of
outlaws, and contrast these with the Tahitian women, noto-
rious for their licentiousness. Yet, before their so-called
civilization, they were the most moral and virtuous com-
munity in the world — a proof that their religious training is
not as efficacious as it should be.

We now proceeded onwards with old Monitu, a sort of
Friar Tuck in his way, and soon reached a lonely little house,
the only inhabited one on the island. Here I beheld the old
invalid who had paid us a visit in the canoe. I was invited
to spend the day and * night with my friends, but declined.
The eldest boy (who, besides being an adopted son of O Pae
Tangata, was the real son of Monitu) showed me a tenant*
less house, in which he informed me I could sleep. The

ALARM, 163

only thing inside, except a sleeping mat, was a little basket,
closely sewed up, suspended from the roof, which Artebiade
approached, and kissed sorrowfully. I asked him what it
was, supposing it to be some household god, especially as, on
my endeavouring to look into the basket, he beseechingly
urged me to forbear. I desisted then, but my curiosity being
awakened by his earnestness, I chose an opportunity, when
they were all occupied collecting food, to open the basket
sufficiently to peep into its secrets. I found in it a little roll
of fine matting sewed up, on opening which I beheld a little
human skull and the mouldering bones of a young infant.
Unwilling to show, by further questioning, that I had been
disturbing what they considered sacred relics, I let the matter
pass for the present.

Not long after my return from Hangary, while occupied
one day with my morning meal, the wild yells that I had
now become so familiar with told me that a quarrel had
occurred, and, as the sounds came from the lower end of
the island, I was satisfied that our people were connected
with it, especially as the natives sprang for their spears. I
myself seized a weapon I had made of a hoop of iron, and
rushed towards the site of the wreck, where, on all exciting
occasions, our little party congregated. My friends, par-
ticularly the women, tried to hold me back, but I shook
them off; and, notwithstanding the pain of my feet on the
burning sand and sharp, rugged coral rocks, I outstripped
them all, running in the same direction. On my arrival at
the house I found several of the white men surrounding it,
with such weapons as they could lay their hands on, while
off through the trees in every direction were the natives,
shouting and brandishing their spears in the most excited
manner. The more immediate friends of the white men
were among them, and endeavouring to prevent the threat*
ened attack. From the house proceeded the sounds of loud

v 2

164 A QUARREL.

lamentation, and, on entering, I found the doctor seated,
livid with rage. The two wives of " Opaka " (his mothers)
were crying and tearing themselves in the greatest distress,
and the gentle Tokarora was weeping in unison. I asked
the doctor what had happened, but only received a volley of
vituperation for, as he said, our desertion of him.

I learned from some of the people that, during the absence
of the rest at breakfast, the doctor had quarrelled with and
struck some of the natives; who, returning in force, had
attacked him with clubs; and though, no doubt, he de-
fended himself with his usual bravery, they had handled
him pretty roughly before any of our people or his Kanaka
friends could come to his assistance.

This quarrel renewed the distrust that had formerly
prevailed between the people of Sararak and us, which,
during the presence of the stranger, had altogether subsided,
as we had then relied on each other for mutual protection.
A few days after this the Aitutakian Kanaka foolishly joined
in a wrestling match with the natives, when one of them,
becoming excited, threw him, and was proceeding to mal-
treat him, when the little Chilano, Juan, ran, forward and
struck the savage a blow with his fist that made him reel—
a mode of attack entirely novel to these islanders. Smart-
ing with the blow, he turned on his new antagonist, for he
was a great warrior ; but " Don Juan " put himself into a
pugilistic attitude, and gave the savage another well-directed
blow, on receiving which he darted with a yell towards his
spear, two or three other natives at the same time seizing
their arms. I was too far off to use a stick I had in my
hand for Juan's protection, and was partially hidden from
their observation by a quantity of hara weeds ; but, picking
up a stone, and uttering a loud yell similar to their own, I
hurled it at the angry savage when he was on the point of
darting his spear at my little friend, directing it with so true

"DON JUAN." 165

an aim that it went close past his head, and checked his
rage. The next instant I jumped over the haras, flourishing
my stick, making a great noise, and looking as fierce as
possible. My sudden appearance had the desired effect, for
the party fled in dismay, and I contented myself with pitch-
ing a few stones after them. Juan felt very grateful for the
rescue, and (although he had always seemed to like me
before) from this time forward, during my residence on, and
long after my escape from, the island, he showed himself
devotedly attached to me.

" Don Juan," as we commonly called him, was twenty
years of age, but from his size, his bright colour, and
gay manner, he would have been considered about eighteen.
He had the regular Chilano face, dark olive skin, large
black eyes, straight black hair, rather flat, round coun-
tenance, some colour in his cheeks, and a bright, ani-
mated expression. With his appearance and disposition,
it was no wonder that he made a deep impression on the
hearts of some of the dark-skinned beauties amongst whom
he was cast.

Our little craft now progressed, though slowly, towards
completion, when an occurrence took place that threatened
to destroy all our hopes of escape through its agency. To-
wards the captain, on whom, as I have said, we were
compelled to rely for its construction, there was a universal
feeling of dislike, and none had more cause for it than my-
self. Yet we managed to smother it; and, indeed, his
assiduity in the work he had undertaken claimed our for-
bearance for other faults. I saw, however, that it was with
the utmost difficulty the doctor could restrain his fiery
temper, and disguise his hatred to this man. One day the
captain came into the house for some food, which he alleged
had been left there for him by his brother, a notorious
glutton, by whom, as it was nowhere to be seen, it had most

166 matungA.

likely been consumed. The captain, however, threw out some
insinuations, to which the doctor, who considered that they
were directed against himself, replied by calling the captain
a liar, adding many other contemptuous epithets too gross to
be repeated here. As the latter retreated from the house,
the doctor followed with the intention of thrashing him;
but the sight of the nearly completed boat brought our
position, I suppose, to his mind, for he returned gloomily to
the house. I felt dreadfully annoyed, for I knew we were
completely at the mercy of this ruffian, who, to annoy us,
would even injure himself. Yet I could not condemn
R., who had only honestly given vent to the feelings that
I had been labouring to restrain. The result was, as I anti-
cipated, the captain struck work, and the boat remained m
statu quo. Thoroughly disgusted with this state of things, I
went up to Hangary the following morning to spend the day
with old Monitu, which, since my first visit, he had often
pressed me to do ; for it seemed I had found especial favour
in his wife's eyes. On my arrival, after I had eaten
something, the old lady arose with an effort, and motioned
to me to follow her. When we arrived at the edge of the
lagoon, she directed my attention to an island, about the
most northerly on this (the west) side, of which she had
much more to tell me than I could comprehend. Matunga,
as she called it, I understood was a beautiful place, with
abundance of cocoa-nuts and fish, and all or most of it be-
longing to herself. I thought she invited me to accompany
her there, but bf this I was not then certain. On our return
to the house, I made Monitu understand my willingness to
proceed to Matunga, at which both seemed delighted. This
was the more surprising to me as heretofore none of our
people had been allowed to leave the island, our movements
being jealously guarded.
The next morning old Monitu and Artebiade appeared

VOYAGB TO THB ISLAND. 167

on the beach with the canoe from Hangary, informing me
they were bound for Matunga. I had no idea that our journey
was to commence so soon, and would fain have gone to see
the doctor before I started. It was thought, however,
that that would occupy too much time. My " father and
mother " seemed to dread my leaving them, but finally they
consented ; and with the display of much feeling on their
side, we parted. It was full tide; and the boy, wading
behind, pushed the canoe over the shoal reef till we
arrived at Hangary, where we found my old invalid aunt
seated on the beach awaiting us, with another of the boys,
and some baskets containing fish, neu oara, and young water
cocoa-nuts, or vais, for the journey.

" All aboard," we were propelled with two poles for some
time along the reef dividing Sararak from the next island,
above two miles distant. Close to our right were the
blue waters of the lagoon ; and far to the left the white
fringe of breakers, marking where the waves of the great
Pacific ceaselessly rolled. The canoe, at one time, grated
on a coral patch ; but the savages immediately jumped out,
and pushed her off into the deep smooth water of the lagoon.
The lashings of the different parts of the canoe are easily
cut by the sharp branches of coral. Of this they are
exceedingly careful, and I have never felt the canoe touch
ground in this way without hearing exclamations of alarm
from the islanders.

The old man and the two boys now betook themselves to
the paddles, chatting and laughing all the way. The old
woman alone maintained a solemn gravity suitable to what
seemed to her a great occasion ; and I observed that she
often checked the others in their mirth.

As the boys soon got tired of the " ho &/' or paddle,
our progress was very slow; and it was afternoon when,
passing through a long shoaling passage in the reef,

168 "molly bawn."

we at last beached our canoe at Mutagohiche, the ally,
and in a measure tributary, of Sararak. Before we
had reached the shore the whole concourse of natives
were gathered on the beach, yelling in the usual manner.
I was conducted in a kind of triumphal march to the
house of a person who had been a visitor at our hut for
some days, and here I had to undergo a " pehu." The
gentleman who presented me with some cocoa-nuts took
particular pains to inform me that I was to be his son ; and
a most unprepossessing-looking father he was, with a low
forehead, half-closed little piercing eyes, which his eyebrows
and hair nearly hid, and a pinched-up face, almost covered
with coarse, straight, bristly hair. He so disgusted me with
his familiarity that, in a rage, I ordered him off in a voice
so threatening that the whole mob fled in a panic. Soon,
however, recovering their self-possession, they began to laugh,
as I supposed, at their foolish trepidation, and ventured again
near me.

One of the boys even brought me some fish from the canoe,
of which I made a hearty meal, my new father begging some of
it. I answered him by throwing a quantity in his face — an act
that caused great laughter at his expense. After the meal I
set out for a stroll, still followed by my persevering parent,
whom no affront could discourage. I soon discovered that
he possessed more land than any chief in the island, and was
what might be called a very wealthy man. My independence,
which was not very pleasing at first, made him cringe to
me, though he may have hated me for it. I took a prejudice
against these people, with one or two exceptions, and I never
got over it.

As I strolled along, little "Molly Bawn/' as I had
called her when she came to Mangerongaro, made her
appearance, and, in her gentle winning way, took my hand,
which, to the extreme astonishment of the crowd that

44 FARDOROUGHU." 169

continued to follow us, I allowed her to hold. This seemed
to make rather a favourable impression on them, and they
began to think me less of a monster than I had at first
appeared.

" Molly Bawn," who was about ten or twelve years of
age, was a general favourite. Her skin was so fair and
her features so regular, that she might have been taken for
a half-caste. This child became particularly attached to me;
and her gentle manners soon won my sympathies.

After about half an hour's walk in a northerly direc-
tion, we arrived at rugged, rocky ground — a perfectly
barren space. The natives now urged me to return, and
endeavoured to make me understand by signs that if I
passed a certain boundary I should be killed. At the same
time, the little girl and one or two women began to cry, and
as I had no wish to offend their prejudices, I consented to
return. I subsequently found that this was the boundary
line between Omuka and Mutagohiche, two divisions of an
island some four miles in length, which were at war with
each other.

At night, on retiring to rest, the little " Fardoroughu,"
as I called my Mutagohiche sire, was as distressingly
officious as at meal-time. From time to time he would call
out my name, and when I answered he would say, " Moe e
moe I" (" Sleep, dear, sleep 1") He and others were indeed
so troublesome, that the following morning I urged an early
departure, glad to escape from this rude place, where
even the women were so different, those of Sararak being
invariably gentle. From infancy up to twenty years of age
the girls are often very beautiful. Above that age, the men
are fine specimens of the human race, being tall, stout
fellows, with handsome bushy beards, generally black, but
sometimes tinged with auburn.

At Mutagohiche the natives are all congregated near

170 MY AUNT.

one spot, forming a considerable village, for mutual protec-
tion against their more powerful neighbours of Omuka;
whilst the people of the latter place, having no dread of an
attack from their despised enemy, are scattered over
their little country, each on his own possession. From this
island the reef extends out into the lagoon about half
a mile, and can only be navigated by their canoes at high,
water. As it was now low tide, we kept out in the lagoon.
While we advanced we could hear shouts on shore, and
occasionally observed the natives running along the white
sandy beach, screaming as they scampered out through the
shallow waters on the reef, and beckoning us to wait for
them. This we consented to do, and pulled to the edge, on
whose rugged sides we kept the canoe from grating by stick-
ing one end of the paddle into a patch of coral branches,
and securing the other to the edge of the light vessel.
Thus safely at anchor, we awaited the screaming natives,
who, the soles of their feet being as thick as leather, ran
over the coral points apparently unscathed, and were soon
alongside. I found, to my surprise, among them my tall,
handsome aunt, who had presented me with the she at
Mangerongaro, on the arrival of the Omukans there.
On seeing me she seemed greatly delighted, and clapping
her hands, uttered the usual exclamation, " Aoae Maitake g !"
(the £ being a note of endearment in common use). She
advanced, waving the right hand with that peculiar oscil-
lating movement called by the natives " shara shara ;" and
when I got out of the canoe she ran forward and embraced
me — a salute which, as she was a very fine young woman,
I would have returned cl I'IrlandaUe, had not a scream of
alarm reminded me of our relative positions. Her husband,
a fine, tall, handsome fellow, with short curled hair and
beard, united with her in urging me to remain with them ;
and it was apparently with great regret that they allowed

CHABACTER OF THE NATIVES. 171

me to depart. As we sailed away the little group stood in
the same spot and waved their hands in farewell, repeating at
the same time, in a melancholy voice, the words, " A hana, ft
hana !" (" Go, go !") which probably meant farewell. These
people, strangely, have no salutations of this kind in their
language either at meeting or parting, nor have they any
expression of thanks, " Su mare" (" very good") being used
instead. Indeed, they are a thankless race, as without
any delicacy they would take everything you had, and ask
for more. On the other hand, they are usually generous, and
will readily share what they have with others. Some are
foolishly extravagant and prodigal, freely lavishing their
cocoa-nuts till they are reduced to beggary ; while others
hoard up their " utos" till they rot in the ground.

172

CHAPTER VII.

Harbour of Omuka — Troublesome Hospitality — Prevalence of Dis-
gusting Sores — Pikoche — Bathing — Cure of Chera Puna — Stroll
over the Island — Insolence of a Powerful Chief resented — De-
parture for Matunga — Kind Reception in Mangerongaro —
Taharua — Eakara — Excellent Fish — Turua — Ceremony of the
Mar& — Native Idols — The To Tree — Superstitious Observance
— Sacrifice of a Turtle — Created an " Iriki " — Ocura — Enter-
tained by Turua — His House — Opposition to my Departure
from the Island — Pursued by the Natives — Attempts to escape
— Offer of a Canoe— My Departure — Etiquette of Reception —
Consecration of my House — Completion of our Boat — Success-
ful Launch — Preparations for the Departure of our Comrades —
Call at Tokerau — Accident to the Boat — A Flattering Offer—
The Boat once more off — Unaccountable Course taken by it —
Pleasant Sail along the Coast — Return of the Boat — Renewed
Trouble with the Captain — Tokarora — Proceedings of the Doc-
tor — Recovery of the Greater Part of the Works of Shakspeare
— An Invitation — Biche de Mer — Storm on a Journey.

T7VERY island has a general landing-place, to which
-*-* foreign visitors invariably repair. This is generally
where a break in the reef allows the canoe to come close up
to the beach ; and there are few islands without one or more
such apertures. The kingdom of Omuka is particularly for-
tunate in its little harbour. The wide reef we had been
coasting along narrows towards its north end till it abruptly
turns into the land, which, on the other hand, bends out
into the lagoon, forming a quiet little cove. A pier of coral
boulders has also been built out some distance into deep
water, so that at all times of the tide canoes, or even vessels,

HOSPITALITY. 173

may come alongside. As we approached this point the
crowd, which we had seen increasing along the shore in a
state of the utmost excitement — for I was the first of our
people who had left our own island — rushed into the water,
and soon our canoe was surrounded. Men, women, and
children literally filled the little bay, preventing further
progress. Such a Babel I never before heard. My
island name, "Maitake!" resounded above all the other
din as it passed from mouth to mouth. At length Monitu,
who seemed to have control everywhere, made them leave a
passage to the shore ; but before I could land several stout
savages had seized me in their arms, raised me on their
shoulders, and with yells of triumph brought me to a larger-
sized house than common, where they deposited me. The
proprietor, a short, fat young man, with rather an unprepos-
sessing countenance, was, it appeared, a leading chief, and a
friend of Monitu's. His wife, with a child on her knee, was
an exceedingly gentle little creature, but apparently afraid of
her lord and master. A question was asked them by some of
the people, to which they answered, "Cary" ("No"). A
great sensation immediately followed. The men shouted at
the women in the most violent manner, and, slapping their
hips, ordered them off for something. Away the women
scampered in various directions, but soon returned, some
with cocoa-nuts, some with neu oara, and some with fish.
As much food was then pressed on me as would last me a
week ; at which the gentle little woman whose guest I was,
seemed sadly distressed. I reassured her, however, by
the words, "Su mare," signifying that I was perfectly
satisfied. Poor little " Pikochfc 1" how different she was
from her boisterous and officious husband, whose patro-
nising manner I was obliged to check. This (being a great
man) he did not like, and consequently we never* got on
well together.

174 DISGUSTING SORBS.

Before leaving Mangerongaro I had observed on many of
the natives disgusting sores spreading all over their bodies,
caused, no doubt, by eating flesh-meat, which they had never
done till the wreck of our vessel, except, perhaps, on rare
occasions, human flesh. They led us to understand, how-
ever, that they never had anything of the kind till our arrival,
and it appeared to be their opinion that we had brought the
disease to them in the ship. We did not relish this accusa-
tion, as it might prejudice them against us, but thought
that it might avail us as a pretext for saving the lives
of a few hogs that still remained. We told them, there-
fore, that it was owing to their eating pork. This complaint,
which spread rapidly all over the islands, was henceforth
called " poerka." In one or two cases it proved fatal, particu-
larly in Omuka, where it seemed to be worse than else-
where. I endeavoured to explain to them that an infected
person should not come into contact with the hale.

This disease became a source of great annoyance to us,
as we not only had many disgusting sights constantly before
us, but were excluded from the little pools for washing,
which the natives used indiscriminately. We were debarred,
too, from fresh-water bathing, and obliged to put up with the
sea water alone. The natives of Polynesia generally wash
with fresh water after being in the salt, and here it was even
a superstition that, if you did not do so, some calamity would
happen. Our dissenting from their habit, therefore, was a
source of immense annoyance to them, and a great bore
to us.

It may be conceived that the continued visits of such
patients were not very agreeable, and I became anxious to
leave; but as I found that the great mart, ceremony was to be
performed on my account on the morrow,this was impossible.

The ceremony was similar to that at Mangerongaro,
with the omission of the pehu, which had been gone through

CHERA PUNA. 175

the day before. I remained some time observing the stones,
&c. of the Hard, whilst the rest of the men performed their
ablutions. Going towards the beach for the same purpose, I
met Pikochfe, who, not aware that I was one of the unwashed,
came forward to salute me ; but some of those who followed me
calling out, " Huie atua I" (that " there was a spirit in me"),
the poor little woman, with a look of horror, fled at her
utmost speed ; for here, as elsewhere, the women are more
superstitious than the men, and more scrupulous in the
observance of their religious rites.

Bathing is resorted to as a cure for all complaints, and is
attended occasionally with superstitious forms. In passing
one of the pools, a good-looking little elderly woman be-
sought me to stop and see her daughter, whom she had
brought down to bathe. The child, of about ten or eleven
years of age, was, notwithstanding her delicate appearance, a
most lovely creature. Her hair was a dark auburn, and
clustered over her head in short classical curls. Her eyes,
large, soft, and melancholy, were generally hid by the droop-
ing lid and long curved eyelash. Her nose, though short,
and broader at the base than beauty would warrant, suited
the style of face, and her lips also, though too thick for our
ideal of beauty. Prom the anxious inquiries of her mother,
who seemed to dote on her, I saw that something was ex-
pected of me. After reassuring the child, therefore, by speak-
ing in a kindly tone, I took her to the pool, and bathing her
burning forehead with the cool water, blew gently on it to
relieve her headache. This, from her exclamations of plea*
sure, it evidently did, and her mother went off rejoicing, no
doubt in perfect faith that her daughter was cured. Whether
what I had done had any beneficial effect I cannot say, but
the next time I saw " Chera Puna" she had entirely recovered.
The cure caused quite a sensation, and thenceforward I was
looked on by many, especially the women, as a" tangata

176 THE OLD CHIEF'S WRATH.

kichfe," or spirit doctor — a belief which, I must confess, I was
unscrupulous enough to turn to my benefit on many future
occasions.

As I was not to embark for Matunga until evening, I used
my time in wandering over the island. There is a great
sameness throughout the whole group. The north point of
Omuka appeared to have been planted at no distant period,
many of the palms being yet too young to bear fruit, which
is not usually seen till after seven or eight years' growth.
The people seemed to have a greater abundance of food than
those at Sararak.

Wherever I moved through this place, Monitu hovered
around me like a guardian angel, more in character than ap-
pearance I must say. I proceeded on one occasion a con-
siderable way down the island, and called at the house of an
old grey-haired chief, apparently a person of great impor-
tance, from the manner in which I was urged to visit him. I
felt annoyed at first by his cavalier reception of me, and he,
I suppose, was equally displeased at the air of dignity I
assumed in his presence. He appeared to take a fancy
to my hat, and asked me for it. I of course refused, on
which he attempted to seize it. I repulsed him rather
rudely, when, with an alacrity I scarcely gave him credit
for, he sprang from the ground and caught hold of a spear
that hung at the roof of his house. The people surrounded
me, and tried to hurry me off; but thinking it better not to
show fear, I replied in warm terms, shaking my fist in his
face, which put him beside himself with rage. Before he
could attempt to use his spear, however, Monitu appeared,
and his presence was sufficient to quell the old man's wrath.
By resenting the insolence of a powerful chief I made the
inferior people more subservient to me. This little incident,
however, seemed to alarm Monitu greatly, and he hurried
our departure for Matunga before the time intended.

APPEARANCE OF MATUNGA. 177

This part of our voyage was entirely performed on the
deep waters of the lagoon, the reef being covered with
boulders or rugged coral patches that made navigation on it
dangerous to canoes. When about half the distance, I was
delighted to discover a broad, clear passage from the lagoon
to the ocean (about two hundred yards at its narrowest part),
and, although a heavy sea broke on the reefs on either side,
not a flake of foam was to be seen on its entire surface. I
therefore presumed that vessels of two or three hundred tons
at least might enter with safety. I had two reasons for being
satisfied with this discovery. In the first place, when our
boat was completed, the launching of it across the reef into
the ocean, even at the calmest time, would be attended with
danger, whereas, by conveying her to the lagoon, she could
sail safely through the passage. This would not only afford
us an exit, but be the means of bringing a small schooner
into a safe harbour, should I return to establish a pearl fishery
here, there being abundant evidence of extensive pearl oyster-
beds to be found along the shore of every island. This
valuable discovery, however, ultimately proved the cause of
much misery, and perhaps irreparable injury to me.

The old invalid had gone on before us the previous night
in another canoe, and, whether she had impressed the people
with some wonderful idea of my importance, or Monitu
had sent word that noise was offensive to me, I know not,
but I was received much less boisterously and with greater
marks of respect than elsewhere. I was also much pleased
with the appearance of the place. The island was only about
a mile long, but it was broader than any of the others — per-
haps half a mile. Here was one great dense palm grove
whose shade seemed impenetrable, and the little bay we
entered by a break in the reef was sheltered by a kind of
shrub that here grows into a tree, its branches extending
out on either side till they dip in the tide. Before our lan/U

N

178 THE PEHU.

ing, some men came to the edge of the water and made a
lengthened speech, I presume welcoming me to their shores,
accompanying it with a grotesque and rather undignified
dance, during which, however, they maintained great gravity.
One of the natives I recollected having seen before, but
under what circumstances I could not then remember.

When the speeches were finished a general rush was made
to my canoe, every one, even some of the young ladies, hail-
ing me with a kiss. There was a perfect struggle who should
gain possession of me, and I was carried on their shoulders in
a most uncomfortable manner. 1 resigned myself, however,
to my fate, and, with the customary wild shouts, was borne
to the centre of the island. Here, in a cleared space, strewed
with coral gravel (around which were some houses, forming
a kind of plaza, or public place), I was deposited on a mat
in the centre, whilst some of the leading men with palm
branches drove the multitudes from around me, and formed
an extensive circle, in which they seated themselves.

The first ceremony was the pehu. In this case the women
formed two rows, one on either side of me. Two men who
were selected for the purpose seated themselves at each end of
a mat a little distance off, and began to interrogate me. I
understood but little; but according to the expression of
their faces I ventured to frame my answers, and it was highly
amusing to see the effect my replies occasionally produced on
the assemblage. By their looks and exclamations of astonish-
ment and horror, it appeared that my answers were not only
unsatisfactory> but so contradictory, that they began to
suspect I did not comprehend them. The idea struck me to
make a long speech in English, during which they looked
bewildered ; but when I concluded I repeated the few sen-
tences I had learned in their own language, which were hailed
with intense delight.

One of my interrogators was a man I had recognised on

MAU KAKARA. 179

the beach. Although still young, not more than twenty-seven,
he appeared the iriki, or chief. I now remembered he was
the same I had chased from the fire one morning, when I
was on guard at the house in Mangerongaro. By signs I
reminded him of the event. He was quite delighted at
the flattering recognition, and explained the affair to the
rest, who all expressed equal pleasure. He was a remark-
ably fine-looking native, about five feet ten inches in height,
and stout in proportion, with a good forehead, high nose,
large animated eyes, a profusion of close-curled hair and
beard of an auburn tinge. His name was "Taharua."
His wife, "Mau Kakara," was a little delicate-looking
woman, with soft, large black eyes, and very long black
straight hair. I have never seen a people amongst whom
there is such a discrepancy of appearance between male
and female. The men are tall, powerful, fierce-looking
fellows; whilst the women are little and gentle, except in
old age, when, from their scars, they become coarse and
weird-looking.

Mau Kakara ("the holder of perfumes/' as her name
literally signifies) was a great belle; and, being a beauty
and a woman of rank, never descended to any occupa-
tion. As a mark of distinction, however, she scraped some
cocoa-nuts expressly for my use, which I ate out of com-
pliment to her. Other food was urged on me from all
quarters, including some bowls of fish hot from the oven.
As they presented the latter they repeated the name,
" ruchfe," making me understand there was none of this
description in Mangerongaro. It appeared to be a particular
delicacy or favourite with them ; and I must acknowledge I
never in my life ate any fish as good. The gravy, too, which
flowed round it was of the richest description. These coral
islands produce a great variety of fish, many of them of
very superior flavour; but none are equal to the ruchfe,

x 2

180 TURUA.

which certainly made me a greater lover of the finny tribe
than I had ever been before.

Night approaching, I had many pressing invitations from
the leading people to retire to their houses. A fine-looking
young fellow of about twenty-five, who, together with
his wife, had sat near me during the proceedings, greatly
prepossessed me in his favour. Turua, as I heard the
girl, who had something very amiable in her expres-
sion, call her husband, seldom spoke, although he seemed
as anxious to attract ' my attention as the others. I
observed, however, that he exerted himself to suppress
the constant tumult. When he did address me, his voice
was low and mild, and evinced a diffidence that greatly
raised him in my favour. Notwithstanding, however, the
pushing and whispering of his wife, who urged him to put
in a claim for me to be their guest, his modesty kept him
back ; and my only alternative was to decide on remain-
ing with Taharua, who seemed greatly delighted by the
honour.

The following morning, by daybreak, the assembling of
all the people at the house where I slept aroused me. The
women, in their holiday attire, told me that the ceremony of
the mara was again to be enacted. This varied a little from
those I had previously witnessed in two respects. I had
myself to officiate in the removal of the cocoa-nuts from
place to place. After an extra quantity of yelling and dan-
cing, an old priest entered the mara-house, and brought forth
a long stick, with an immense bundle of feathers and other
things tied at one end, like a huge duster or mop. This he
held aloft in fear and trembling, whilst he uttered some in-
cantations, striking it, not against a stone, as the leafy gods
were struck on a former occasion, but against the back of the
other officiating priest. This broom-Btick or mop was, in fact,
the representative of one of their great leading gods, of whom

WALK THROUGH THE ISLAND. 181

there are four, two good and two bad. The two good gods
give life, and all that is necessary to its preservation — gifts
which the other two are constantly endeavouring to coun-
teract. One of the amiable spirits is married, and I even saw
his spouse at a death-bed scene, in the form of a piece of
wood, with a lock of human hair fastened at one end. These
people believe that the spirit of the dead, after haunting for
some time the ground it was familiar with in life, leaves for
some distant region; and at night they imagine they see
their departed friends in the stars overhead, many of which
are known by native names.

In the evening a walk through the island satisfied me that
it was the most productive I had yet seen, and in a particular
spot, the only one throughout the group fit for such a
purpose, I believed a few banana-trees might be cultivated.
This was under the shade of a gigantic "to-tree," which
the natives showed me with great pride. Its branches at
night became the resting-place for flocks of sea-fowl ; and
the sand beneath, impregnated with guano and decayed
leaves, consisted of a soft soil not seen elsewhere. This
soft earth was a favourite resort for the young people,
where they enjoyed their athletic sports, or sat in listless
indolence, as they do for hours together, chatting about the
every-day occurrences of the islands.

Throughout my walk no act of rudeness occurred. One
or two men went in front clearing the path of all obstruc-
tions; and when, on one occasion, I hurt my foot, some
of the people dropped on the ground with pitying excla-
mations, and rubbed it tenderly with their hands. Others
walked at a little distance behind, and on either side, as a
kind of guard, keeping off the children and those who
were curious from pressing too near to me. Close to me
were Turua and Taharua. The latter was rather imperious
with his followers, driving them off with his spear; but

1S2 TURTLE.

the former was quiet and gentle, a good-natured smile
constantly playing on his features.

The following day, to my surprise, we were again all
marshalled and marched to the sea-shore, where I found
a turtle sprawling on its back. After some words were
repeated over it by one of the priests who had officiated
at the mara, Turua stepped forward to the edge of the
water, and, in a menacing attitude, seemed to denounce
some one, throwing up his arms, and vociferating at the
top of his voice, as if threatening an imaginary being
at sea. The turtle (or "hona," as they call it) had, it
appeared, a spirit in it, which, being driven out by one
of the priests, was threatened with vengeance by the
bold warrior if he attempted to return. The unfortu-
nate turtle was at once conveyed to a mara, different
from the one we had visited the previous day, and, after a
few ceremonies, was beheaded and disembowelled. A
large fire was then prepared on an elevation of stones,
and it was sacrificed to the gods. On our return to the
gravel plot, where the people had again all assembled, a
mat was placed in the centre for me, and the cooked
turtle, cut into small pieces, was served up in the
shell, in which it had been roasted. Monitu, Taharua,
and Turua sat at a respectful distance on the mat, the rest
of the people forming an extensive circle somewhat farther
off. My three privileged friends, diving their hands into
the meat, selected the most tempting pieces, with which they
endeavoured to feed me. This I rather declined, and was
allowed to help myself. As they looked, at every mouthful
I took, like hungry dogs, I offered one or the other a piece,
which was laughingly accepted and devoured, my generosity
being received with flattering comments from the circle.
Extending my liberality, I threw some pieces to Ocura and
Mau Kakara, when, to my astonishment, the women jumped

ELECTED "IRIKI." 183

tip and fled in terror, shouting, " Huie atua V 9 Taharua
and Turua held my hands, and, shaking their heads, gravely
repeated the same words, but Monitu only laughed heartily
at my mistake. After these ceremonies I became a person
of great importance, and, from this time, bore the title of
"Iriki" (king or high chief). Probably this was awarded
me as a matter of compliment, to induce me to remain
amongst them. It is not, at any rate, a position of much
distinction, for their kings have very little power beyond that
which the influence of property, or the number of friends,
procures them. In these respects I should have had con-
siderable power in Matunga, for I had been adopted by half
the people on the island, and, as they are bound to support
their relations, and the land of the parents belongs to all
their children in common, I stood in a good position ; but
the subsequent attachment of these people towards me formed
a stronger tie, and gave me an almost unlimited control over
them.

After some time, finding that the crowd which always fol-
lowed my movements had dispersed, I stepped out whilst the
natives took their noon siesta. I had scarcely left the house,
however, when Turua, who had apparently been waiting for
me, came running forward, and pressed me, with his win-
ning smile, to accompany him. This I did with plea-
sure, and he led the way by a path I had not before
seen, through the centre of the island. The densest portion
of the grove he pointed to with evident marks of satisfaction,
as the trees were all loaded with fruit; and the district through
which I was passing, I was informed, was mine, because, I
knew, it was his. So dense was the shade here, that the sky
was completely obscured from our view, and it was only when
I had arrived at a neatly-gravelled space that I observed a
house, to which our path led. A little girl was busily engaged
preparing a native oven, and a young woman was sitting in

184 OCUBA.

front . of the house, with her head down, scraping neu
oara. Neither observed us till we were close upon them.
On seeing us, the young woman, who proved to be Ocura,
dropped the food she was preparing, and, clapping her hands,
advanced timidly, and saluted me. She then ran into the
house and spread mats for us to sit on.

Ocura, when she married Turua, was one of the richest
heiresses in Omuka, being the daughter of a great chief,
not only in that place, but also in Matunga. All the
property came from her; for Turua, being a younger
son, was not at all wealthy. Ocura was very ambitious,
and was always stimulating her husband to take a more
leading part in the affairs of the nation than he felt his
position warranted, or his natural diffidence would allow.

Supper was, at last, announced by the little girl. Turua
sprang up one of the nearest trees like a monkey. These
people climb better than any of the other islanders I had
seen ; and soon a few shocks on the ground told the little
girl that the " muco mucos" had fallen, when she immediately
ran and fetched them to the house. These young nuts are
easily skinned, and, the tops being broken off, a delicious
beverage is ready prepared by the hand of nature; for
there is no more refreshing drink than the water of the
young green cocoa-nut, with its cool and slightly tart vege-
table taste. The blackened fish-bowls were opened, and
proved to contain my favourite ruchfe. A shell of neu oara,
smoking hot, was brought in ; and when the upper cover was
removed, the little leaf was seen spread on the top, to prevent
dust entering by the eye of the upper shell — a precaution that
is taken only by very exemplary housekeepers.

After washing her beautiful little hands in water poured
on them from the eye of a large entire shell, used as a water-
jug, Ocura brought down a small bag of fine matting, and,
from a number of pearl tufes, or Fenrhyn spoons, selected

NATIVE HOUSE. 185"

one brightly polished on the back as well as front, but not
much improved by some rude carving on it.

A greater treat was in reserve for me, namely, a couple of
cooked " utos" (or apple of the growing nut), which I pre-
tended not to know. After trying a piece, however, I sud-
denly clapped my hands in their own fashion, and, placing one
hand over my mouth, exclaimed, " Ka oaia — su mare !"
(" Good heavens ! how delightful !") at which Turua burst
into a loud laugh, and Ocura, in her delight, threw herself
before me and kissed my feet !

After supper it began to grow dark, and soon a number of
the natives who had been searching for me arrived. Taha-
rua, who seemed to think he had a particular claim on me,
begged me to return with him. I was about to do so when
Turua, urged by Ocura, asked me to remain where I was,
and I acceded, to the evident chagrin of the other, who went
off with his pretty little wife in high dudgeon. This house
was larger and differently constructed from any I had seen
in Sararak, although there are several in Matunga, Omuka,
and elsewhere like it, as I afterwards observed. A framed
roof, about ten or twelve feet square, is supported on two
stout uprights of the pandanas-tree, the eaves reaching to
about five feet from the ground. Some pegs or slight stakes,
of about a foot high, are driven into the ground around the
house, immediately under the eaves, and at night long narrow
mats of cocoa-nut leaf are fastened to, or laid against, these
pegs, forming a shelter from the blast. Otherwise the house
is entirely open all round ; and on windy nights, as may be
supposed, admits of the most perfect ventilation.

Besides the little foot-curtains around the house, the
portion of it that I occupied was partitioned off by another,
and, airy as it was, in this fine latitude I did not find
it unpleasant. At this time I slept with my clothes on,
which was a great means of using them up rapidly, as I had

186 DISCUSSION WITH MONITU.

to wash them the oftener. This I did by taking them into
the sea when I went to bathe, and after rinsing, leaving
them on the hot stones to dry. Here I often left them bo
long, that they were nearly cooked; and often when I
lifted them they stood out, with the heat and the salt, like a
board. Sometimes, on the other hand, in damp weather I
had to put them on wet, to which circumstance, with the
wet from rain that I had to suffer from, having no change,
I ascribe a subsequent long and severe rheumatic attack.

I spent a few days on this island even with some degree of
pleasure, so assiduous were its people to make me comfort-
able ; but, as I had been now a week absent from my com*
panions, I became anxious about proceedings in that quarter.
Confident that endeavours would be made to complete
the boat sooner or later, I told Monitu of my desire to
return. He looked astonished, and intimated to me that I
was to remain here altogether. As well as I could compre-
hend him, he maintained I had consented to this before coming
on the journey — which perhaps, in my ignorance of what he
said, I might have done. Our discussion brought a number
of the people round, who all remonstrated with me. Some
said I was hungry, and ran to fetch food ; but this not suc-
ceeding, they renewed their expostulations. One or two
even spoke angrily; but, as I turned on them rather sharply,
they received from the rest such a volley of abuse that they
were glad to " hide their diminished heads/* All, however,
would not do ; I insisted on getting a canoe, and, from feeling
annoyed, became angry. They were now silent, and withdrew
from me, falling back on passive resistance ; that is, I might
go if I could, but they would not assist me. I felt, therefore,
very anxious. A wide and deep channel separated me from
my friends and the hope of escape, which my fears of de-
tention made me picture as just at hand, for I felt assured
that the boat would be finished about this time. I hastened

I8LET8. 187

to the beach, and tried to launch one of their canoes, which,
being clumsy, weighty affairs, I found it impossible to move.
I then ran to Turua, and tried to get him to assist me, but
he went off and hid himself.

I now thought of getting back again by some of the more
northerly islands, which I had no doubt I could reach by
crossing the reef on that side. I accordingly waited till
noon, when the natives generally take their siesta, and started
along the outer sea beach, which was little frequented, so
that I might not be interrupted. To the north-east
are two little islets a few yards square, with clumps of
trees on them — good landmarks for vessels making the
land. As I crossed I heard behind me the shouts of the
natives, who had missed me, and were on the search. Not-
withstanding the rough coral of the reef, which lacerated my
feet, I soon reached the cover of the first islet, which again
hid me whilst I gained the second. It appeared that the
natives were at fault on arriving at the water's edge, for they
did not follow for some time, as I had crossed from the sandy
beach through a part of the island where it was rocky, and
left no footprints to trace me by. A little further still was
a bare hummock of sand, gravel, and stones. I was already
half-way across, though the coral gravel was so rough that,
with my torn feet, I could scarcely endure the pain of walking
on it. However, I ascended the islet to see what the rest
of my path was like, when lo ! directly beneath, the waves
broke in foam around its base; and between it and
the next island, the coveted land of refuge, was another
deep-sea passage, wider than the former, its sides fringed
with lines of breakers. A rock I saw in the centre, or
rather nearer the Matunga side, would form no resting-place,
did I attempt to swim, for it was just below water, and the
sea broke violently on it.

I now found that Matunga was isolated from the main

188 ATTEMPTS TO ESCAPE.

reef. I was therefore a prisoner, completely at their mercy.
Angry and grieved, I sat on the mound, which, the excite-
ment over, I dreaded the pain of walking on. Looking
over it, I observed for the first time that it was hollowed out
like a cone, and intersected with paths of large flat stones,
some lines of which crossed over the summit and descended
to the water's edge. The place had, at one time, been used for
some peculiar ceremonies, but of what nature I could never
afterwards learn. I now both heard and saw the natives
crossing the reef in great numbers; and, as it would never do
to betaken back a kind of prisoner, I hastened down one of
the causeways, and reached the first islet just as they were
emerging from it. They uttered shouts of joy on beholding
me, and ran forward to embrace me. As I did not wish
them to think I had been making an unsuccessful effort to
escape, I put as good a face on the matter as my distress
would allow.

I was too much dispirited by this failure, and the pain of
my feet, to attempt anything further that day. So I lay in
the house the remainder of the evening, perhaps more savage
in temper than the poor islanders. A great council was
held, and much discussion took place, evidently relative to
my return ; but, as nothing resulted from it, I presumed
they were determined to detain ma The following morning,
by daylight, I slipped to the beach to try and remove a canoe
to the water ; but it had been drawn up higher than usual,
and I found it impossible to move it. After breakfast
I again appealed without success for assistance to leav<3.
Driven to desperation, I started off for the reef, determined
to attempt the passage, although I was but an indifferent
swimmer, and thought it probable that there would be a great
current flowing out, which is usually the case. However,
although my hopes of reaching the other side were slight,
I resolved to risk it.

ALLOWED TO DEPART. 189

I lived near the southern end of the island, and it did not
take me long to reach the reef, followed at a respectful dis-
tance by some of the people ; but when I entered the water
and made towards the passage, they raised a yell that soon
brought the whole island after me. The women cried and
screamed, the children followed their example, and the men
ran before me to stop my advance, whilst some even seized
hold of me. These I struck at furiously in my excitement,
and it was some time before I could understand that a canoe
was at my service. Satisfied with this, I became calm and
good-tempered again, and the natives were now as anxious to
make ready for my departure as they before had been to de-
tain me. A canoe was got into the water, and one or two
branches cut from a palm-tree were soon converted into
baskets, which were filled with fish, cocoa-nuts, &c., for the
voyage. The natives were by this time all seated in a great
semicircle facing the beach (for they seldom stand when it
can be avoided), and I had to pass round them, that they
might all salute me before my departure. Long after we had
left their hospitable shores, their farewells were heard,
" Ahana coe ! Ahana, Maitake I A hoke mai !" repeated in
mournful tones ("Go, go," or "Farewell, Maitake! but
come back to us !"). At Monitu's dictation I uttered the
response, " Ana ho co& I Ana ho !" (" Remain/ 4 or " fare-
well !")

Besides Monitu and the boys, we had a stout young man
with us who materially assisted in our progress. The old
invalid was left behind, and, without further incident worth
mentioning, I arrived at Hangary that evening. Painful as
my feet were with my flight at Matunga, I was too glad to
land on any part of the island I looked on in a measure as
home, to object to walking the rest of the way.

After the boys, therefore, had collected some cocoa-nuts,
we started, and had not proceeded far along the main island

190 ANOTHER PEHU.

when we met several of the people, who, on seeing us, raised
a shout, and, waving their spears, performed the "haL"
One of them, stepping forward, delivered a long complimen-
tary speech. This must be done before they salute you, no
matter how glad they may be to see yon. No undignified
haste of greeting can be sanctioned in Te Pitaka. My name
was now shouted at the top of their voices, until it was an*
swered further along the island, and so carried throughout
the length and breadth of it. I was astonished at meeting
no more people, and equally so at getting a glimpse of a few
running in haste before me, as if in fear of my approach ;
but, on my arrival at home, I found they were all congre-
gating there. There was a great assemblage already, and
more were arriving. They seated themselves quietly in a
row as they came, apparently without noticing me, or, if they
did, it was only by a glance and a little wave of the elevated
hand. I would have advanced to shake hands with my
honoured parents ; but they retreated from me, and, pointing
to a mat, said, "Na hoke ratha" (" Sit down there "),
which they hastily repeated until I had taken my place. In-
deed, had I been acquainted with the etiquette of Te Pitaka
at the time, they should not have been compelled to speak
to me at all, as they were not accustomed to do so
on such grave occasions. A pehu was again performed,
which ended in the usual crying, scratching, and cutting.
Speeches were delivered in the gravest manner by my
father and mother, who approached, stooped, and kissed
me. I had then to pass along the double line of persons
seated, to be kissed by them all in grave silence, whilst at
the same time they shook their heads and waved their hands.
If I had just risen from the dead, our meeting could not
have been more melancholy.

After the ceremonies were got through, however, they be-
came lively as usual, and I amused them with some account

THE CAPTAIN AND THE DOCTOR. 191

of my voyage; but the few additional words in the language
I had acquired seemed to give them most delight. On
retiring to my house, I was surprised to find it shut up, and
surrounded by a circle of small palm branches, nearly a foot
distant from it, while others were placed about the roof,
from which, on opening it, I found also several suspended
in the interior. I asked for an explanation of this, and was
given to understand that as the house was " huie a tua," or
consecrated to my use, no one could invade its holy pre-
cincts till I had entered it myself, when the prohibition
was removed.

Anxious about the remainder of my comrades, I proceeded
shortly afterwards to our house, where the news of my arrival
bad reached by the vocal telegraph almost as soon as I had
set foot on the island. I found R., Franke, and Joe at
their accustomed post ; but there was no one near the boat,
which made me suppose that nothing further had been done
to it. In this I was mistaken, as I learned that, on the soli-
citation of the rest of the hands, the captain had consented
to resume work,, on condition that the doctor should not sail
with them, which was acceded to. No doubt he had hoped
to get his brother with him ; but this was objected to, as
the crew, still dreading that he might abandon us, stipulated
that I should go, as had been previously proposed. Of
course I was delighted with the arrangement, but it did not
suit the captain, who disliked me even more than he disliked
the doctor ; and, after some days, he revoked the decision,
saying, as before, that B., being more of a sailor, would
be better suited for the voyage. Having agreed to this
previously, I had no reason to contend now, nor did I much
care which of us went, as I was anxious to learn something
more about the capacities of the island for a pearl fishery ;
and, hoping they would be able to bring us relief in about
a month, I might as well spend my time here as go to the

192 COMPLETION OF OUR BOAT.

Hervey Islands and back again, especially when my re*
maining might be a source of considerable profit in making
search for the pearl beds during their absence.

In a few days more our little craft was completed in
every point, except that she was not caulked and provisioned
for the voyage ; but, as we had no pitch, the former seemed
difficult. The latter, too, was douBtful, for having no
means of purchasing necessaries, we were forced to depend
on the good- will of the natives. However, the crew did not
require any advance-money on the voyage.

We had fortunately saved a little barrel of tar from the
wreck, and to this we added some slaked lime, made from
coral boulders sufficiently burned in the fire. We had also
old ropes enough for oakum, which some of us were now con-
stantly employed picking. At last the caulking was com-
pleted, the masts were adjusted, and the sails bent ; a jib,
fore, and main-sail, with the requisite rigging, were provided ;
and the rudder was worked with a long tiller. Our boat was
only half-decked forward, with a small deck aft, and one
plank round an open space in the centre. Bags of gravel
ballast were prepared, and our little ark — our hope of de-
liverance — was ready for launching on the waves, by which
we earnestly prayed she might be carried in safety to a
friendly shore. About this, in the tropics, where favourable
trade winds generally blow, few of us had any apprehensions.
The captain, the mate, the doctor, and Joe were selected
as a crew. I had spoken to the Matungans about a supply of
provisions for the boat, which they had promised to provide
if the people of Sararak refused. This I told my friends.
My information about the two passages, the position of
which I could point out from Mangerongaro, gave them great
confidence and pleasure. Not to rely entirely on the natives,
our people had used the mode of fishing on the reef by torch-
light common to the rest of Polynesia, but not practised by

ITS REMOVAL. 193

these people, and had killed a number of the puses, or
white-speckled eel, which we had skinned, boiled in salt
water, and dried in the sun, to the evident horror of the
natives. Indeed, so greatly were they disgusted with our
handling them, that one or two of the crew who had
been seen doing so, and were suspected of having eaten
them, were not allowed to enter their houses for some time
afterwards.

All hands were now to apply to their respective families
for a supply of cocoa-nuts. This was readily promised by all,
except one or two miserly old wretches ; but the deficiency
was made up by Opaka, the head chief, who was as generous
as he was brave and intelligent. Then came the grand
movement, being no less than the removal bodily of the boat
from the sea-shore to the lagoon. The interest of the natives
in the progress of the little vessel had been increasing almost
equally witH our own. They had expressed the strongest
doubts about her floating without an "eava," or outrigger, and
now they were anxious to see the experiment tried. They
had told us when the time came to "ara hokfe" (make a
great call on the people), and they would all come. Accord-
ingly, spars were fastened across her, so that several shoulders
could be applied to them ; and, when all was ready, one fine
morning the call was made, and the whole population was
soon congregated. It was a great event, being the first sail
vessel that was ever launched on their shores. Every part of
her, where a native could place a broad shoulder or stout
arm, was pressed, and she was raised aloft and borne along
amidst the acclamations, shouts, and yells of the wild mul-
titude.

At first our progress was most successful, but towards the
centre of the island the trees were so close that we found
the spars, rigged across, too wide to pass through them, and
we had to make retrograde movements more than once before

O

194 THE RENDEZVOUS.

•

arriving at the opposite shore. We were much alarmed at
this, for the natives, whose excitement carried them on with
the work vigorously at first, began to flag, and should they
leave us here, we were lost. However, they renewed their
exertions, and a wider though more circuitous path being
found, the little vessel was lowered, amidst the wildest ex-
citement, into her proper element in one of the bays of the
reef, where she floated still and upright, to the astonishment
and delight of the natives. When they found her crank, how-
ever, without the ballast, they pronounced her " a kino "
("no good") ; but that being adjusted, they were quite
satisfied, and when she sailed out on the quiet waters at a
brisk rate, pleasure and wonder seemed to unite in making
them for once mute.

The following day donations of old and young cocoa-
nuts began to be brought down to the boat, whilst water was
scooped out of one of the shallow pools to fill k five-gallon
keg, a tin turpentine can, and an open bucket, the only
utensils we had for holding it; and this, together with that
from the cocoa-nuts, was to form a six to eight days' supply
(about the time calculated for the voyagers to make one
of the Hervey Islands). Aitutake was the one proposed,
where so many whale-ships call.

After we had been upwards of six weeks on the island,
the morning of the eventful day at last broke fair and
beautiful, with a brisk easterly breeze. Everything seemed
propitious as we hastened to the rendezvous. The four men
about to leave looked grave, and it struck me, for the first
time, what danger they might be incurring in so small a
craft, which looked much less, now that it was in the water and
loaded, than it had done when in progress of building. The
old boat (her under works) I knew was strong ; I had been
in her in some bad weather myself round the islands, and
she sailed well before she had been built on. How sbe might

DEPARTURE OF OUR COMRADES. 195

act now, or how the new part might stand the sea, had yet to
be tried.

At length the moment of departure came. Our little party
gathered round our four comrades in the boat, and bade
them farewell. As I shook hands with each, I felt the
possibility of our never meeting again, being all nearly alike
in positions of danger. Whatever cause of anger I had
against any of them, I from that moment banished it from
my mind, and with an earnest prayer for their safety said the
word farewell. The grappling iron was raised, the sails
shaken to the wind, and the boat stood out into the lagoon at
a brisk rate, amidst the cheers of the crew and the shouts of
the natives. It had been stated by the captain that he in-
tended calling at Tokferau, the island at the north-east side
of the wider and farther passage, that he might observe its
capabilities before venturing through it, as I had only seen it
from some distance, and on its worst side. The natives had
received information of this somehow after they were started,
and got into a state of wild excitement, declaring that
the Tokferau people would kill them and seize the boat, and
it was determined that a considerable force should start im-
mediately after them, to render assistance, or guard them if
in danger.

A select body of thirty warriors being chosen, O Pai Tan-
gata's war canoe was launched. This was about half an hour's
work, by which time the boat was nearly out of sight.
They begged me to accompany them, which, of course, I was
only too glad to do. Two boys were seated in the bottom of
the canoe with wooden bowls to bale out, this occupation re-
quiring constant attention; for their clumsy vessels, con-
structed of many pieces, all leak more or less. We started
at a rate that promised ere long to bring us up with the boat,
but this violent effort soon flagged, and we afterwards moved
more leisurely, till, stimulating themselves by shouts, the

02

196 TOKERAU.

rowers resumed their former speed, but again eased off, so
that the entire voyage of some eight miles must have taken
us nearly two hours.

Approaching Tokerau, the island I would have fled to
from Matunga, we saw our little craft, her sails furled,
quietly riding at anchor in a lovely bay formed by a bend
in the island and a break in the reef. There was depth
enough of water there for a vessel of considerable burthen
to approach the gravelly beach, and be moored to one
of the low cocoa-nut trees, whose branches bend over till
they dip their long leaves in the tide, which is so calm and
transparent, that the numerous coloured fish can be dis-
tinctly seen sporting over the white sandy bottom.

Our appearance seemed to cause a sensation amongst the
natives, who had been assembled on the beach; but
they retired till assured of our pacific intentions.

We landed, and found a house near the water's edge
appropriated to the boat's crew, where I was surprised
to find a quantity of things put ashore. On reaching the
house I was sorry to discover that the boat had met
with an accident, the captain having run against a
tuka or coral shoal. This, however, had done her little
injury, only making a very small hole in her bows, but
enough to prevent her going to sea in that state. As a pre-
caution against such accidents, some materials for repairs
had been placed in the boat on starting ; and a piece of sheet
lead and tarred parcelling, after she had been hauled up on
the beach, made her sufficiently tight to proceed on her
voyage. To my annoyance, however, the mate and Joe
growled discontentedly, and seemed disinclined to proceed
further; the latter saying he knew that " the captain had,
for some ends of his own, done it on purpose/' This, at the
time, I thought absurd ; yet it flashed across my mind, as
I had before remarked, that his brother and he separated

OFFER OF A WIFE. 197

with the same composure they had evinced any day previously
when going to their meals. As I could not reassure the
fellow, I volunteered to go in his stead if T should be accepted.

The people of Tokfcrau seemed very intimate with my
name, having heard of my visit to Matunga, to which place
they are subject. The three houses near the beach were
crowded with the Sararak people ; and I was glad to accept
an invitation to the dwelling of an old chief, where I was com-
fortably lodged, and had a good supper of fish. In the morn-
ing, when I was about to depart for the boat, the old governor,
whom I had entertained a little with my conversation the pre-
vious evening, caught hold of me, and begged me to stay,
offering me his daughter, a fine buxom young woman of about
twenty, whom he called Ruberau Shfe. This was the more
flattering as it was the first proposal of the kind made to any of
the whites. The young woman herself, "strange to say, seemed
quite agreeable ; the ladies of this group having heretofore in-
variably repulsed any advances from admiring foreigners,
perhaps commanded to do so by their lords and masters,
who are very particular about their women, differing in
this respect from most of the Polynesians. Nor is this
virtue confined to the men ; for the women of the Penrhyns
are, up till the time of their marriage, models of purity.
After that event, however, they sometimes form little private
attachments, and have affaires du coeur similar to those in
more civilized communities.

Though it was a difficult matter to refuse such an offer,
having no desire to remain at Tokerau, and fearing that
such an alliance would bind me in the eyes of the people to
their island, I urged, in a becomingly delicate manner, the
necessity of my return to Mangerongaro, and begged to
decline the intended honour. To my astonishment, the lady,
with some of her companions, burst into a loud laugh at
the sentimental look I cast on her. The old chief, however,

198 TREASURES OF THE DEEP.

appeared to have so set his heart on the match, that, to
escape his importunities, I ran down to the beach.

Here every thing was ready for the voyage. Joe had
changed his mind, and had decided on proceeding with the
boat. So, after another farewell, they started, with a
brisk favouring breeze that promised in the first day to
carry them well on their way. To Aitutake was about six
hundred miles, and with the present wind, should it last,
they might arrive there in four or five days. I, together
with the natives, followed their course along the shore till
they passed out from the smooth waters, through the passage,
to the wide Pacific Ocean, whose waves in the strong breeze
were tipped with white crests. When the little vessel was
fairly out to sea, and the natives had all returned to their
huts, I sat on a rock watching its progress, and was sur-
prised to see it change its course — instead of proceeding
along the Omuka coast to the southward, standing right up in
the wind's eye to the eastward, and labouring in a heavy sea.
I was lost in speculations as to what could be the meaning
of such a proceeding, when I was summoned to the canoe
about to leave. Here I found that the Tokfcrauans had
brought down a present of cocoa-nuts to each of our party,
apparently more as a peace-offering than a token of love ; for,
as I afterwards learned, the people of Sararak are as much
dreaded as those of Tepuka.

The men now took their time, and propelled the great
canoe leisurely along the northerly shore instead of returning
home. As I looked over the side, I saw in several places
along the shoals quantities of onches, or pearl oysters, and
amongst the coral branches of every form an infinite variety
of fish of the most brilliant hues — scarlet, bright yellow,
crimson, black, the freshest emerald green, and clear blue,
the forms as peculiar and new to me as their colours. I have
no doubt that these waters would produce many specimens

RUAHARA. 199

of the finny tribe unknown to the naturalists of the civilized
world. In looking down into the water to watch the gradual
ascent of a shoal over which we passed, the impression I had
was that of ascending a hill which, near the surface, ab-
ruptly terminated, the opposite side descending to an invisible
depth, and giving to the observer a sudden shock, as if he had
just passed over a tremendous precipice.

Coasting thus pleasantly along, we arrived off the flat
sandy shore of Ruahara, where our appearance seemed to
spread consternation amongst the people, whose cries we
heard from one end 'of the island to the other. When we
landed, the male population appeared to have fled or with-
drawn to a distance, and we were met on the beach by a few
women only, who, by their wobegone expressions, seemed
to presage calamity. However, after some conversation
their countenances brightened ; and, appearing to be recon-
ciled to the visit, they signalled to the men, who soon re-
turned and mingled with our party. In a few moments they
began to ascend the cocoa-nut trees in all directions, till a
sufficiency of nuts was collected, when to each of us was awarded
" a tai rangahura" (or " one ten.") Opaka took me with
him to a house some distance off, where I had a bowl of
beautiful little fish, like our gold ones, presented to me.
Indeed, throughout the voyage he had been particularly
attentive; and I learned that, now the doctor was gone,
he had adopted me in his stead. I also found on our
journey how much this man was respected or feared abroad
as well as at home, and an extra share of cocoa-nuts was
appropriated for his use.

It was late in the afternoon when, with our load of cocoa-
nuts on board, we turned our course homewards. As we
coasted along I begged them to call at Matunga, anxious
to see the people again who had shown me so much
hospitality. After some discussion, for they evidently con-

200 PERFIDY OF THE CAPTAIK.

ndered this place mare dangerous ground than those
previously visited, they started for it. Here we heard con-
siderable shouting also; hut instead of women, as at Bua-
hara, we found the beach covered with armed men,
.apparently determined to dispute our approach. When they
saw me, however, and learned that no hostility was intended,
they willingly permitted our landing; but I was the only
one allowed to leave the boat. Several of the natives
went to gather me some cocoa-nuts, but they had not
been long thus occupied when a cry of "Te oaka, te .
arorangfe!" (" Jhe white man's boat !") resounded through the
island; and many ran from the beach to inform me that
the boat was returning. Unable to credit this, I rushed
to the water's edge, my companions, who were jumping
into their canoe, calling loudly on me to come. I then beheld
the schooner, which had indeed entered the passage, heading
back towards Mangerongaro. We were about equal distances
from that place ; but, notwithstanding that our people pulled
lustily — stimulated, perhaps, by their proximity to Omuka,
their mortal enemy — the schooner arrived some time before us,
I at once hastened to where the doctor gloomily- sat
against a palm-tree. In answer to my inquiries, he briefly
told me that, after leaving the lagoon, instead of proceeding
on their voyage, the captain insisted on standing up into the
wind, carrying all sail, to try the boat, as he said. He thus
kept beating and plunging into a head sea, taking water in
over the bows, and straining the poor craft all day, till her
new upper works began to leak a little ; and between this
and what they took in over the deck, the primitive pump
they had made would not keep her free — of course not —
and he appealed to the rest to return. Disgusted with the
captain's conduct, convinced of his perfidy, and seeing that he
had not the slightest intention of proceeding on the voyage when
he left, they thought it better to come back. I asked him

OUR DEPARTURE POSTPONED. 201

if any other arrangement had been determined on. He said
no ; and, save myself, he knew of no one that could be relied on
to form part of another crew. At present he thought it would
be better to give up the attempt till the boat was re-caulked,
though he believed she could perform the voyage without it.

Thus two days, that would have carried them half-way with
a fair wind, were unfortunately lost.

I told the doctor I was ready to go in her for one ; and,
begging him not to take the things out till I should return,
I hastened to see if I could form a crew. With the excep-
tion, however, of Kanaka Bob (who still seemed to have a
lingering dread of being eaten by these people), I could not
get another hand ; and for the present we were compelled to
give it up. As it was generally believed that it was the
captain's desire now to make off with the boat, in company
with his brother and one or two others he might select, we
provided against this by seizing the instruments, spars, sails,
and rigging, which were all carried to Opaka's house, where
the doctor and Frankfe now resided, and where they had my
pistol and some other arms to protect them, the frame-house
having been destroyed before their departure. The natives
took back the cocoa-nuts they had bestowed on us, and we
seemed as far from escape as ever.

The following day, at a meeting of some of our people, it
was resolved that no further trust should be placed in the
captain; and it was understood that the doctor, the mate,
and myself, with some others, should form the next expedi-
tion. As the boat, however, was in a bad condition — as this
was the season of hurricanes, which, though of rare occur-
rence, occasionally happen here, — and as the trade-winds
were uncertain, it was determined to put off our departure
till after March, when the fine weather of the tropics would
be again established.

This was the signal for the breaking up of our party.

202 the doctor's ukase.

Heretofore the work on the boat and the hopes it inspired
had bound us to Sararak ; but now our people began to yield
to the invitations they had from other islands. In a few days
Painuk left in a canoe on a friendly visit with a party from.
Omuka. Juan and Harry, constant companions, slipped off
one bright morning across the reef to Mutagohiche. The
people of our island did not like this desertion ; and when
the mate and old Bill attempted to leave, they were pursued
and brought back. The two Huahinian Kanakas, who ate a
tremendous quantity, had become a burden to their friends,
and were allowed to pass over to the enemy undisturbed.

The captain now commenced work on a little flat-bottomed
boat, which he soon completed. He became very popular in
his neighbourhood, and received the title of " iriki " or chief
of the district of Mangerongaro ; but, as there was now no
occasion for appearing on friendly terms with him, I no
longer spoke to him.

Opaka had now retired to another of his houses, having
given up the one the doctor and Franke were in to their use.
Here they were daily favoured by the visits of the beautiful
though coquettish Tokarora, on whom, it was reported, the
doctor smiled benignantly. Suddenly, to the surprise of
those who had been acquainted with his amorous character in
the other islands, he issued a ukase to the effect that who-
ever harboured a regard for any of the nut-brown maids of
Te Pitaka would fall under his displeasure and forfeit his
esteem.

I was, like the rest, astonished at the doctor's conduct, be-
lieving that he entertained tender feelings towards the fair
Tokarora, then in the bloom of youthful womanhood. I
learned, however, afterwards that he had made proposals
(how honourable I don't know) to the young lady, by whom
they were scornfully rejected, and that this was the cause
of his becoming suddenly a misogynist. The doctor was

THE BABD OP AVON. 203

not aware of the strict laws that existed in Te Ktaka
against the intermarriage of relations, or he would not have
felt so indignant at this refusal.

Things passed on very quietly now. I spent much of my
time in the water, and would have given anything for a good
book. One day, as I was returning from the beach, a piece
of paper floated by. I seized it, and, to my astonishment,
found it was a leaf of the immortal " Bard of Avon." Another
and another flew past, and loud laughter diverting my
attention to where some imps were amusing themselves, I
darted forward, and, to my disgust, beheld the sacrilegious
young heathens tearing out leaf after leaf from a volume of
Shakspeare, which they also occasionally pitched into the air,
screaming with delight as the wind carried the leaves aloft.
With a yell about as savage as that of their sires I rushed at
them, when they fled in all directions, leaving the spoil
behind. I found the remnants of one or two private account-
books that had belonged to myself scattered about in the
same manner, and a book on common law in a precarious
state. I seized on these treasures, and conveyed them home
in triumph. Afterwards I also found a hymn-book and a
copy of Moore's works almost entire. These had been
brought from the wreck, and stowed away by the natives,
who, not being able to " read, mark, or inwardly digest them,"
had handed them over to the tender mercies of the juveniles.

On my return home I met two of the boys, who had come
in search of me, and had a great deal more to tell me than I
could comprehend. I understood, however, that some one
was dead in Omuka or Matunga. On my arrival at my hut
I found strangers. One was an old woman whom I did not
recollect, and the other Monitu's daughter, a young widow,
who requested me to come to Omuka to eat fish, " eka," as
she called it. As I had for some time eaten cocoa-nuts only,
I accepted the invitation.

204 REEF AT LOW WATER.

But what was to be done with my books, my treasures ?
If any circumstance should occur to prevent my leaving
these islands, they would be more valuable to me than a
diamond mine. An idea struck me,. and I tried its effect.
Showing the books in as mysterious a manner as I could
command, I pronounced in a solemn voice the dreaded
words, " Huie atua I" The women jumped back with an
exclamation, and I took the precious volumes into my cabin,
and placed them in the roof, where from that day they were
never displaced by other hands than my own. I found the
words had the desired effect, and I did not forget them.

The following morning, everything being prepared, I
set off, accompanied by my father. As we had no canoe we
were obliged to perform the journey to Hangary on foot,
where the women insisted on waiting till the tide fell,
as .they disliked wetting their tiches, the salt water
being injurious to them. O Pai Tangata now gathered
another basket of young cocoa-nuts, and the two women
were loaded like camels with a basket on each hip, support-
ing them in their place by their arms passed over them
behind. One of them carried a third basket on her shoulder,
and held it in its place by her teeth.

Each of the women wore a parieu and a pare, or face-
shade, a little mat made from palm-leaves, which rests on the
forehead, projecting slightly, the two ends being tied behind.
It forms an excellent shade for the face, their thick masses
of hair alone protecting the head.

I found the reef at low water rarely deeper than the knee,
and for the most part covered with a white sand, that made
it agreeable walking, but in some places full of little prickly
shells that stuck in the feet, and in others covered with live
coral that, to me, was almost impassable, though the natives
did not seem to notice it. In such places I trod on biche
de mer, or sea-slug, with which these reefs abound — a valuable

SEA-SLUGS. 205

article of commerce in China — but the kind found in such
shoal water is generally of an inferior quality, there being
some seven or eight different varieties. The common black
one is something like the land-slug or snail at home,
but from three to twelve inches long. Many of them are of
a whitish-brown or dirty-red colour, and all of different
value in the Chinese market ; to prepare them for which,
after being gathered, they are partially cut open, thrown
into a vat, their entrails taken out, well boiled, and then
thoroughly dried in a heated house, with various racks or
shelves for the purpose. The operation requires the greatest
care, for if any damp remain in a single one it might spoil a
cargo. Large fortunes have been realized in this trade, the
slugs being worth about 80$ a picul in China ; while their
collection with native labour, and the expense of the voyage,
could not exceed one-half, and might be done for less than
a fourth of that amount, when a good fishing-ground has
been discovered.

When we had crossed about half over the reef we came to
a dry sandbank, where we sat down and regaled ourselves
with delicious draughts of cocoa-nut water, consuming
enough to empty one of the baskets. On leaving, the
morning had been as bright and lovely as it generally is
in the tropics ; but now the sky had become suddenly over-
cast, the blue waters of the lake had taken a darker shade,
and splashed angrily against the edge of the reef in miniature
breakers, threatening one of those sudden and violent squalls
common to these regions at this time of the year. The heavy
black cloud that hurried up from the horizon, spreading its
dark mantle rapidly over the whole visible expanse, told
us of the deluge of water we might expect. The poor
women, regardless of themselves, only expressed their soli-
citude about me; and, taking off their parieus, fastened
them round my waist and shoulders, thus affording me

206 A STORM.

shelter, but leaving themselves naked to " the pelting
of the pitiless storm" which had now commenced in
earnest. The younger woman appeared very much fatigued,
and when I took her heaviest basket seemed most grateful,
although she at first objected to my carrying it.

1 may be considered very selfish in appropriating to my-
self the only covering of the poor women, but I knew their
tanned hides would receive no injury from exposure, whereas
I wished to keep my clothes, in which I must remain all
night, as dry as possible.

The storm continued with unabated fury till we reached
the opposite shore. The people of Mutagohiche were all
withdrawn to their huts, and, as I had no interest in these
people, I urged our progress onward, and keeping along the
beach, passed their village unnoticed. When the gale abated,
the weather cleared up as suddenly as the storm had burst
on us, and the sun shone again as if no cloud had ever
obscured its brightness.

207

CHAPTER VIII.

Our Reception in the Omuka Territory — Carious Manner of Dis-
posing of the Dead — Ceremonies and Superstitions relating to
the Departed — Costume worn for Mourning — Ororo — Visit to
" Relations " — Coquetry — Games of the Polynesians — A Wife
*et apart for me — Strange Conduct of the Natives — Encounter
with some of them — Visit to " Grandpapa" — Manner of catching
Plying Fish — The Mararo — Sight of a Vessel in the Distance
— Disappointment — Pearl Fishing — Pearl Islands — Operations
of the Divers — Value of the Oyster Shells — A Misadven-
ture of the Captain's — Arrangements for our Departure— Pro-
posed Visit to Tepuka — An Attempt to Escape temporarily
baffled — Opaka's Generosity — Refusal of my Guide to proceed
— Renewed Attempts to detain me — Difficult Journey — Ma-
hauta Nud — Hostility of a Priest — Tepuka Pashues — The Great
Mara — Ancient Tombs — A Great Curiosity.

OUR appearance in the Omuka territory was hailed with
the usual shouts, and by the time I had arrived at my
destination, its northern point, an immense crowd followed
in my wake. With a retinue that might have honoured the
visit of an eastern prince, I made my appearance before the
modest little Pikoche, who, overwhelmed with confusion and
delight at finding herself in so public a position, could with
difficulty make the accustomed complimentary speech, which
she stammered through with the assistance of some old
ladies, who kindly prompted her, and then conducted me to
where her husband was.

As I approached the spot, I observed a most disagreeable
odour, that became more offensive when I arrived at the
house. To my surprise, I found him ensconced in a small

208 CEREMONIES ON OCCASION OF A DEATH.

house, newly erected, and entirely closed up, except an aper-
ture about two feet square, merely sufficient to admit the pas-
sage of his food, some of which I saw lying at this entrance.

When he had made a speech, I was taken to the back
of the house, where his wife and I entered. After a little
conversation, he told me to go and see Monitu, who was
waiting for me. In a similar house, at a little distance, I found
him, in the midst of a smell almost intolerable. I en-
' tered at the back as before, and, in doing so, knocked my
head against something, which, on looking up, I perceived to
be a long bundle of matting bound up with sinnet. A hor-
rible idea crossed my mind, the thing looked so like a
mummy, and I asked what it was. " Teo Matua Oahenfe !"
said Monitu, in a melancholy voice.

" Good heavens !" exclaimed I, as I bolted from the house,
not waiting even for the salutation that my venerable relative
was about to bestow on me. %

It was, indeed, my old invalid aunt tied up in the bundle,
and suspended from the roof— literally hung up to dry.
This was the first instance I had seen of a disgust*
ing custom which I subsequently became only too familiar
with.

The occasion of a death produces more ceremonies than
any other event. When the spirit has finally left the body,
the relatives give themselves up to unrestrained grief, some-
times knocking their heads against a block of wood or stone,
or throwing themselves violently on the earth. The husband
or wife of the deceased, or the nearest relative, after the
corpse has been laid out, lies down beside it, and both
are covered up with a mat for several hours, whilst the
friends and neighbours perform a pehu, cutting themselves as
usual. The body is then anointed with cocoa-nut oil, and a
priest, approaching with a piece of young palm branch, formed
to represent the human body, draws it over the skin from the

FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 209

head to the feet, as if extracting something from the body.
As he performs the operation, he shakes out the imaginary
contents on the ground, telling it to go, " Ahana !" When
the spirit has thus been all " gathered to its fathers/' the
priest repeats some words, when it betakes itself to the
groves, where it may often be seen at night, particularly
about the maras. Here it appears even in the daytime,
and is considered dangerous, doing all kinds of mischief, even
biting its victims if it can catch them.

The different articles commonly used by the deceased be-
fore death are then brought to the corpse, that it may have
the same comforts in the world to come as in this. The
" kia," or sleeping mat, is lifted by two women, who, with
opposite corners in their right hands, hold the others aloft,
while they repeat a little rhyme, telling the departed to go in
peace with the good mat. They then perform a dance, similar
to the Shukai, concluding by very unceremoniously throwing
the mat towards the corpse, repeating " Ahana I" ("Go I")
which is responded to by others of the crowd, using the same
word as a kind of " Amen." An " epo," or drinking-cup,
" txkh" or spoon, " matau," or fish-hook, and it may be one or
two other articles, are thrown into the mat before the body is
sewn up in it by means of a wooden Bkewer and sinnet.
The body is then hung up in the house of the deceased,
which, with the exception of one little aperture, is entirely
closed up. Here the chief mourner shuts himself up with
his deceased relative for three or four months, till corruption
is far advanced, when the body is generally buried. If the
deceased has been a great warrior and chief, he is buried in
the mara; if he has left behind no very near relative or
attached friend, he is interred at once. Several of the rela-
tions generally go into mourning — that is, shut themselves up
in separate houses — for a longer or shorter period, as their
grief dictates.

210 SPIBITS' FOOD.

An amusing feature of their mourning is the costume
worn when they are obliged to leave the house, which
they seldom do till nightfall. They issue forth under an
immense kind of basket made of palm leaves, and intended
to represent their voluntary prison ; and as this great mass
is seen moving along, with nothing but a pair of feet visible
under it, it has a most absurd appearance, especially when
two meet and stop to converse. In fact, they are not unlike
a couple of animated haystacks.

Although the spirit has been dismissed from the body, as
long as the latter remains in a decomposing state the ghostly
being hovers about his former abode, and dire would be his
vengeance against the survivors if he did not receive his ac-
customed supply of food, and that in lavish profusion.
Ghosts, however, having generally indifferent appetites, two
men or more are selected to dispose of what is left. This is
a great honour, and is anxiously coveted by all the friends ;
but it is generally known beforehand to whose lot the distinc-
tion will fall. A most absurd scene generally occurs on such
occasions. These gentlemen, like certain church dignitaries,
mocJe3tly disclaim all desire for the honour they aspire to, and,
as if to avoid it, seek some hiding-place, where, however,
they can easily be found, though it takes considerable per-
suasion, and even force, to drag them to their post, where
they daily gorge themselves to an alarming extent. They
are bound, however, to supply a certain quantity of cocoa-
nuts themselves to the feast. The poor women, who have to
perform all the cooking, dare not partake of it themselves,
it being "huie atua." Whatever remains undisposed of
must be thrown into the sea, as no one else can touch
it. On such occasions a dance called the "capa," which
will be described afterwards, is frequently performed.
In the neighbourhood of the house of mourning there
must be perfect quiet, and no cooking is permitted. Cocoa

AUNT TEPO. 211

nuts are not dropped from the trees in the usual manner, but
carried down or lowered with a rope.

On account, then, of this " mate/' or death, in my family,
I was summoned to Omuka, and the honour of eating the
" manga huie atua," or spirit's food, was thrust upon me. I
frequently partook of cooked orora, by itself, or mixed with
neu oara, which was really an excellent mess.

The second day after my arrival the people of Matunga
came over to see me, and encamped along the water's edge,
where they remained for some time, having thrown up little
temporary huts very quickly. Ocura carried me off to show
me her land, or mine, as she politely called it, and brought
me to the house of her father, a very respectable-looking,
middle-aged man. The elder daughter, Tepo (the Night),
though not very good-looking, had a bright and intelligent
countenance, and always a great deal to say. As her father
was a widower, she took entire management of the house-
hold, and no one thought of disputing her arrangements.
Amongst her juvenile companions, too, she seemed to hold a
despotic influence, for to her everything was referred, and her
opinion was given in a peremptory tone, rarely questioned,
except by a younger sister, whose insubordination was not
unfrequently severely punished.

In all my wanderings about Omuka, my sister or aunt Tepo
— for she was both, I believe — was generally my companion.
We became great friends. I liked her for her smartness and
vivacity, and she, I imagine, was flattered by my notice oi
her.

The Matunga people were very anxious that I should form
a matrimonial connexion, and stay with them. As I hoped
to bid them " a fond adieu " before a month was out, I de-
clined the honour. Tepo, however, one night, when the
question had been discussed, whispered mysteriously to me to
follow her ; and, starting off, she joined some one at a little

p 2

212 POLYNESIAN GAMES.

distance, apparently hiding behind a cocoa-nut tree. This
proved to be the young beauty, Chera Puna, to whom I had
acted the doctor on a former visit, and who now seemed per*
fectly recovered, and more lovely than before. On my
approach she darted off to another tree, and when I went
towards her set off as before, but evidently with the wish
that I should follow her. Amused at this little coquetry, but
tired of its nonsense, I was about to return when Tepo seized
me, and angrily ordered Chera Puna to advance, which she
did slowly, sideways, with her head bent down. Her pretty
innocent face was scarcely visible amid the masses of
dark auburn curls that clustered round it ; and, as she paused
occasionally, she lifted imploringly her large soft eyes,
which even their long curved fringes could not hide. Al-
though still a girl — a mere child, in fact, in expression
and manner — her figure was as perfect as her face.
When she came near me, I took her hand in mine, and
she laughed sweetly when Tepo called her my wife, though
she was evidently somewhat embarrassed too.

On arriving at the house of her mother, one of the
few good-looking elderly women of the place, I found a
company of young people invited for the occasion. After my
mat had been spread, and something to drink placed before me,
the company, by the orders of Tepo, began to amuse me by
throwing up, after the manner of the Chinese balls, a number
of little cocoa-nuts that drop from the tree when about the
size of walnuts. At this they are very expert, making it a
game by counting up to a hundred. When one drops a ball,
another takes it up, and so on till a certain number has
been achieved.

Another game common among the Polynesians is that
of twisting on their fingers, by the aid of their mouths, a
piece of cord into various forms, like what is called cat's-
cradle by children at home. In these sports the oldest as

CHERA PUNA. 213

well as the youngest often indulge. The children have also
a simple dance. Four stand in opposite corners, and keep
hopping to some words, repeated, rather than sung, at certain
intervals by the dancers. Those at the opposite corners
change places when mistakes of position occur. These errors
lead to great vituperation and discussion, occupying more
time than the dance.

During these proceedings Chera Puna, sitting down be-
side me, put the seeds of some hara nuts into my hand. These
are procured by pounding the hard nut between stones with
considerable labour. Two seeds, about the size of small peas,
are thus extracted, which are considered quite a treat. This
occupation is generally performed by young girls; and a
present of a few is an especial favour. As I opened my hand
to examine them the action was observed, and poor Chera
Puna was again thrown into confusion by the scream of
merriment occasioned at her expense. On the whole, how-
ever, like young ladies generally, she seemed rather pleased
in having a supposed admirer ; and when I called her my
wife, her mother settled the matter by informing me that
whenever she was old enough for marriage I could have
her. This I knew, by the laws of Te Pitaka, could not
be for two or three years yet ; an arrangement which, in the
present state of things, suited me completely, though I
had no idea of trifling with the young lady's affection.

I had remained* here about a week, and was thinking of
revisiting ^f atunga, when one evening the approach of an
illustrious visitor was announced. It was Franks, or " Te
Miche ta Longa Mane" ("the Son of the Long Man"), as from
his residence with the doctor he was supposed to be. Franks
at first anxiously encouraged this supposition, the doctor
being regarded as chief of the white men; but finding that the
roughness of his reputed father brought on him a good deal
of odium, he, after the departure of the latter, laboured assi-

214 ENMITY TO FRANK&

duouBly to disabuse the minds of the natives of this idea.
When he was conducted to my quarters, he told me he had
stolen quietly off from Mangerongaro, but on arriving at Muta-
gohiche, the natives had attempted to detain him ; and it was
only the sight of my pistol, which he had borrowed from the
doctor for the occasion, that had carried him through to
Omuka, where he was anxious to join me, and visit
Matunga, of which place I had spoken to him in high
terms. It was therefore arranged that he should proceed
with me on the following day, several canoes being at my
service.

About noon the next day three canoes were in the water,
prepared to start, when Franke came down with me to the
appointed spot with his bundle ; for he was the possessor of a
priceless blanket and pillow. I jumped into one of the
canoes, telling him to follow. The boat in which I was, how-
ever, was immediately pushed off into deep water, and
Franke was about to enter another, when he was again
jostled aside, and the second boat also was shoved off. I
saw they did not want him with them, but I was determined
that he should come, and commanded the remaining canoe
to take him in ; which, after an angry discussion with the
others, they reluctantly did. Franke would have returned
ashore, but this I would not allow, as. I thought it was their
desire again to detain me in Matunga ; and I hoped, with
his assistance, I might be able to launch a canoe in the
event of their trying to prevent my departure.

We now moved slowly along, and as we were passing the
point of the bay where the pier was built, one of the chiefs
suddenly jumped up, and, at his command, Franke's bundle
was thrown ashore. Franke, of course, followed it, fearing
they wished to rob him of it. Determined not to proceed with-
out him, I also jumped overboard, and reached the landing.
Highly indignant at the treatment my companion had re-

OUR PASSAGE DISPUTED. 215

ceived, I called to him that we should return with as little
delay as possible to Sararak.

A new danger now presented itself. The people in the
canoes, who had been occupied in abusing each other for
permitting my departure, observing our intention of leaving,
called on those ashore to prevent us. These, with their
spears, immediately surrounded us, menacing us with their
weapons if we attempted to proceed. Having the stout
stick, I advanced in front of Franke, when one of the islanders
seized me ; but I shook him off, and, with a shout as wild as
their own whoop, dashed forward on their ranks, knocking
Shi Shi, one of the first, heels over head. The unexpected
onset threw them into momentary disorder, leaving a free
passage for a time. Flourishing therefore my stick, I made
my way, followed by Frankfe, to where some hara weeds
hid us from the view of our enemies. A violent quarrel
fortunately ensued between the Omukans and my Matunga
friends, in the midst of which we hurried from the scene.
But our adventure had not yet terminated.

We had nearly reached Mutagohiche boundary-line,
where we knew we should be free from pursuit, and were
already congratulating ourselves on our escape, when we
found that the report of our adventure had already spread
even through this thinly- inhabited part, and learned that
the savages were still in pursuit of us. We therefore left the
pathway for the sandy beach, where we were partially hidden
by a kind of small bush, and had just started with renewed
energy, when suddenly three natives, bursting through the
bush, stood in our way with spears poised, prepared to dispute
the passage. The same manoeuvre availed me here as on
the former occasion. With a flourish of my stick I dashed
forward, making them rush off more quickly than they had
appeared, and we crossed the boundary-line without further
interruption. Here, after our two-mile race under a burn-

216 OLD MOAN A.

ing vertical son, we were glad to rest and regale ourselves with
some cool " vai neu," or cocoa-nut water, before proceeding
on our journey, which we did the same evening, arriving in
Sararak before nightfall, where our return was hailed with
the usual demonstrations.

A day or two after these events I learned that an important
member of our family, whom I had not yet seen, had,
during my absence, arrived from some other island. This was
no less a personage than my venerable grandpapa ; and as it
seemed he longed to clasp his celebrated grandchild in his
aged arms, I was urged to visit him. This I at once re-
solved to do. After some three miles' walk we arrived at a
house which I had* formerly believed belonged to Opaka,
but I now learned was the property of old Moana, his
father. As we approached I observed the old man seated
at the entrance, the hot sun shining on his silvery head.
He was so absorbed in reflection that he did not per-
ceive us. He held a white china plate in his hand,
which had been a part of our cabin service, and was no
doubt moralizing on the progress of art, illustrated by
the manufacture of a utensil so superior to the primitive
cocoa-nut shell from which he dined. He appeared de-
lighted with the reflection of light on different objects as
he turned it in his hand. When it flashed across the face
of an old woman who was bringing an epo of water from the
well, it caused her to drop the vessel with an exclamation of
surprise and alarm. The old man laughed till the tears ran
down his wrinkled cheeks, and lifting the plate to his lips,
kissed it with affectionate delight. Often as I visited old
Moana — for he was very kind to me — I never saw him on a
fine day without his plate, its reflections in the sunbeams
being a source of endless amusement and wonder to him.

A few days after this I paid a visit to Opaka's house, or
rather houses, in Haka Shusha, over each of which one of

: i-uu,* jK-r-^uj*.

UNEXPECTED COMMOTION. 217

his wives presided. I had been often asked here, hut the
road was very rough, and hurt my feet so much that, on a
former effort to reach it, I had been obliged to turn back. On
this occasion Opaka took me over the reef where it was sandy,
and, now that the tide was out, afforded an excellent path.
During the three days I remained at his house, which was
pleasantly situated on the highest point of the bank, facing
the ocean, he seldom left me, and never tired of listening to
my attempts at describing the wonders of my land. He
seemed to comprehend the meaning of my broken Kanaka
better than any one else, and gave me more assistance in
acquiring a knowledge of his language than any of the others,
taking pains in making me repeat the words over till I had
them correctly, the pretty Tokarora being usually our com-
panion. The other natives, too complaisant} were always
satisfied with whatever I said or did.

On the third day we sat chatting in the usual quiet
way, when a shout at a distance set the whole house-
hold in commotion. As Opaka started excitedly to his
feet, I asked him, in his own language, what was the
matter. "Eia ha? w said I. "No, te mararo/' he re-
plied; and, without waiting to give me further explana-
tion, he seized a "toto," or bag-net, from the roof, and
darted along the beach, calling on the rest to follow. Fully as
excited as himself, and shouting at the top of their voices,
" Mararo 1 mararo \" each seized a mat-basket of some kind
and rushed wildly off in the same direction. I followed
them as quickly as the rough ocean shingle, with its burning
stones, would permit. With their long hair streaming, and
their eyes gleaming with excitement, I saw them diving
into the hollow curve of the breakers that raised their
• white heads aloft, soon to appear again some distance off
beyond the force of the waves. Men, women, and children
alike fearlessly plunged beneath the foam, seemingly as much

218 CAPTURE OF FLYING FISH.

at home as on land. The multitudes in the sea, at first scat-
tered over a considerable extent, now began to concentrate
towards a point, not only keeping up an incessant noise with
the voice, but jumping half-way out of the water, and, as
they descended, striking their elbows to their sides, and clap-
ping their hands, producing a report like a pistol-shot. I
now observed shoals of flying-fish skimming the water in
terror in every direction, often rising beyond the nets of the
circle of men, who raised their arms to catch them, and often
escaping % in their flight the baskets of the outer guard of
women and children. When the circle was sufficiently con-
tracted to concentrate the fish in a mass, the men dived
amongst them with their nets, which, goon becoming too
heavy for them to support, were emptied into the baskets of
the women behind, who proceeded with them ashore, riding
behind the crest of a breaker that would dash an ordinary
swimmer headlong upon the rocks, and returned again after
they had emptied them. In about half an hour the shoal
was all dispersed or caught, and each family had a bountiful
supply of flying-fish, or " mararo." Every time these fish
appear (and it is an event of common occurrence here),
they produce the same excitement. I have seen many
that have flown on board vessels I have sailed in, but
never any so large as those caught about the Penrhyn
Islands, which average the size of herrings, and many of
them even larger.

A certain quantity are laid aside as a sacrifice to the Spirit,
and over them a lengthy prayer is said in a low voice,
with the hand raised and the head bent. As the Spirit,
however, does not appear to claim them, the captors dispose
of them as they think proper, the women only not being
permitted to eat them. A similar prayer is always said
over one or more of every lot of fish caught, and a piece of
the tail is generally bitten off to mark the " huie atuas."

A SHIP IN SIGHT. 219

Some of the mararo were appropriated to me, and I
was to return to Opaka's for them ; but, in the mean-
time, I went to pay a visit to Dr. R., whom I had not
seen for some days.

An evening or two afterwards, an event of most exciting
interest to the white men took place. While I was bathing,
the shrill cries of the natives were heard throughout
the island, mingled with the shout of " Te oaka hufe ! te oaka
hufc \" {" The great ship !") To reach the shore and make
my toilet — not a tedious operation in those days— was the
work of a minute ; and, trembling with the hope of de-
liverance, I made my way across the island towards where
I saw the crowds rushing, a signal fire, already blazing on
the beach, directing us to the spot. Dr. R, who in cases
of emergency threw off his habitual lethargy, and acted
with energy and spirit, had reached a portion of the
wreck, the bows of which, with the bowsprit, still clung
together on the reef, and was fastening a signal-pole to
the latter, on which he had raised a shirt or some other piece
of drapery, to attract the attention of a distant vessel. Alas 1
so distant that we could with difficultv make out her character.
At length, however, we discovered she had two masts, the upper
half of which only was visible above the horizon. All thoughts
turned, of course, to our boat ; but, unfortunately, she had
been dismantled, and required to be ballasted, without which
she could not sail. Besides, to carry her across the island
would require still further preparation, and to launch her
over the reef would be risking our only means of delive-
rance, whilst to sail out by the passage was directly in an
opposite direction, and it would be night before that could
be accomplished. A canoe was then sought on the lagoon
side; but alas I the smaller ones had been all re-
moved for a fishing excursion, and only a large war oaka,
much weightier than our boat, remained, which we could

220 DISAPPOINTMENT.

not move, and the natives were not disposed to render us
any assistance.

Daring this time not only was the fire kept np by dried
palm boughs and remnants of the wreck, but the withered
leaves that hung in quantities around the pandanas-trees
that here lined the coast, were set on fire, and raised a cloud
of smoke that must have been seen at a great distance.
To our joy the schooner at last observed it, for it was
noticed that she had gone about, and now either lay -to or
was approaching us ; but, being so calm, it was difficult to
tell which. With the most anxious hopes we stood watch-
ing her movements. She had evidently observed the fires
and hove-to, but did not venture to come nearer to us. I
now remembered what, in my trepidation, I had forgotten.
I had seen a canoe on the sea-beach the day of the
mararo fishing, and, calling some of the men to join me,
I ran to the spot, ahd found her still there. The mate,
old Bill, and Kanaka Bob were with me, and, by our
united efforts, we got her to the water's edge. A number
of the natives, who had in the meantime collected about us,
endeavoured to prevent our launching her, asserting that she
was "maumau" (leaking), and that we should assuredly
be drowned. This caused a little more delay; but we
eventually got her across the reef and through the surf-
how I know not, I was in such an excited state. The
first thing I distinctly recollect was that one of the men
had stopped paddling, who, when I urged him to con-
tinue, replied, that if he did not assist the other to bale out
we should sink. There were, therefore, but two of us to
paddle, which we did with a will, changing our places, when
tired, with the balers.

A breeze, in the meantime, had sprung up, which the dis-
tant vessel evidently felt, for she began to recede rapidly
from our sight, and was soon entirely lost to us. We were

PEAKL FISHING. 221

now a considerable distance from land, the sun was rapidly
dipping towards the horizon, and, as it was folly to proceed
farther in such a frail boat. I was obliged to consent with a
heavy heart to the repeated demands to return. We reached
the shore in safety, where a number of natives awaited our
arrival, and pointed out a break in the reef, where they as-
sisted us to land with ease. Thus this hope fled almost as
soon as it appeared, and I now looked to the boat as our only
chance of escape, for we knew not when a ship would again
approach these savage shores.

It was about two months since we had first landed, and
during all that time, with the exception of his brief voyage
in the boat, the doctor had scarcely left the house. As the
time was approaching, however, when he hoped to bid farewell
to the place, he, like the rest, became anxious to see something
more of the island ; for which purpose Franke and he left for
Omuka, while I, in company with the mate, took charge of
his house. For many days past the captain and his brother,
with one or other of the Huahinians, had been making
excursions in their little punt, employing their time more
profitably than the rest of us in pearl fishing. They brought
ashore from time to time a quantity of oysters, but what
success they had in pearls I am not aware of.

As it was not my object that the natives should get an idea
of the value of pearls, I induced the two Kanakas to leave for
Mutagohiche; and as the best quality are found in the
deepest water, which requires good divers, the probability is
that, by their unaided exertions, the success of the captain
and his brother was not great. The mode of pearl fishing
here being a little different from that of the Oriental fishers,
of which many accounts have appeared, I may as well de-
scribe it as generally practised.

The pearl fisheries in the South Seas are worked more for
the shell that produces the well-known article of commerce

222 PEARL OYSTERS.

called " mother-o'-pearl" than for the pearls occasionally con-
tained in them, which are neither so abundant nor of so fine
a quality as those found in the East. Although the pearl
shell is not common at Tahiti, all brought from these seas go
under the general appellation of " Tahitian shells," as they
are usually brought to that market by the various small
craft employed by the merchants of Papaiti in this business.
From Tahiti they are shipped for Europe, where they are
considered of a superior quality, but are not sorted into
sizes as those of the East, which deteriorates from their
value. The pearl oyster is found in the lagoons of those low
coral islands or reefs so numerous in the Pacific, most com-
monly in those still waters that abound with tuckas, or coral
shoals or rocks, around the base of which the oyster clings,
but more detached, and not in the quantities found elsewhere.
The shells average about six inches, the largest being from
twelve to eighteen inches in breadth ; the thickest and
broadest, free from worms, are the best. When an island is
found to contain a sufficient quantity of oysters to make the
establishing of a fishery an object, arrangements are made
with some of the natives of those parts celebrated for their
divers. The contract, arranged with the chiefs, stipulates
for the services of the divers for a certain period ; but as the
islanders are unable to keep any record of time, this part
of the agreement is rarely, if ever, honestly observed, and
they may be employed as many years as they should be
months.

There are many pearl islands where the hostility of the
natives precludes landing, but in most cases this is overcome
either by presents or by force. When the divers have been
established they are conveyed in boats to the proper locality,
where they go down, without the assistance of weights,
to the depth occasionally of ten fathoms, gathering as
many oysters from the rocks as they can place under their

VALUE OF THE PEARL FISHERY. 223

arms, and carry in their hands. When they arrive on the sur-
face, after having been upwards of a minute beneath, the blood
is often seen bursting from their noses, and even their ears,
from the pressure of the water. A sufficient quantity having
been collected, they are brought ashore, and opened in the
presence of the overseer of the fishery, a white man, who has
been left in charge of the divers, and to whom the pearls are
to be delivered. The shells are then packed up in large, rude
palm-leaf baskets to await the return of the vessel, perhaps
Six months after her former visit, when they are taken on
board. The proprietor has frequently to purchase the best
of the pearls from some one on the island, but at such a rate
that they leave him a handsome profit ; and, though they
should have been his without purchase, as he cannot dis-
cover the thief, it is his best policy to say nothing about the
matter, or none might be offered him on his next visit The
shells alone, however, afford an abundant return if the affair
is properly managed. These have fluctuated so much in value,
particularly lately, that it would be difficult to form an ap-
proximate estimate of the profits, which, when the business is
understood by those who have an intimate knowledge of the
islands, are very great. Without such knowledge money is
often badly invested in entering into this branch of com-
merce.

There was no. danger, however, of Captain Snow's losing
much money in his fishery, as the capital invested was the
value of his little punt, a worthless enough craft in any other
part of the world. In his explorations on one occasion he
almost lost his life. His brother and he, as I heard, had
reached the far side of the lagoon, and landed on the
shores of " Tau Tua," an island opposite, when they were
attacked by the natives, and rather roughly handled, only
saving themselves by flight to their boat. I cannot vouch
for the truth of the story ; but it is probably correct, for

224 VISIT TO TKFUKA.

the captain was taken ill that night (it was said with the
fright); and the next day, he being no better, some of the
natives belonging to his place came to me and demanded the
sails, &c. of the boat, that they might go with her for a
celebrated " medicine man/' residing on a distant island. I
told them, if they wanted a doctor, to take one of their canoes
for him. They said the captain had sent them for the sails ;
but as this to me was the very best reason for not giving
them, I desired them angrily to be gone. One of them
then attempted to seize those that were suspended from the
roof; but I knocked him aside, and, lifting an axe, drove
them from the house. I now suspected that the illness was
merely a pretence to procure the things belonging to the
boat ; and, some of the savages still loitering about the house,
I told them I should cut down the first one that put a hand
on the sails, with which pleasant assurance they went off,
and I was troubled no more on this head.

It was the middle of March when Dr. A. returned. We
had then a conversation about our journey, and it was de-
cided that, instead of the Hervey Islands, we should endea-
vour to make " Manahikfe " (the Humphrey's Island of the
charts), lying to the westward of us, only two or three
days' sail with a fair trade wind, which we might certainly
calculate on after the 1st of April, till which time it was
resolved we should not start. There was to be no change of
the individuals forming the crew, and the mate was to take
command.

As I was anxious before my departure to see as much of
the capabilities of the pearl fishery as possible, and as none
of our party had yet seen anything of the islands to the
south, I told them I should make a visit to Tepuka, and be
back in ten days at farthest, as I supposed nothing would be
done to the boat till my return. I was assured that nothing
should be done till the 1st of April.

VISIT TO OPAKA. 225

When I had spoken of my intended visit to the Tepukans,
the Sararakians loudly opposed it, violently asserting that
the latter would kill and eat me. As I knew, however, that
these people were deadly enemies, that the same story had
been told me in the Marquesas, and, as a prophecy, had
proved untrue, I determined to risk it, although the Tepu-
kians had certainly a bad name for ferocity all through the
group. Nevertheless, knowing that great opposition would
be made to the attempt, I decided to slip off quietly. For this
reason I announced that I intended to pay a visit to Opaka,
whose place in Haka Shusha was about two miles on my
route, where I resolved to spend the night, and from thence
start by early dawn. Before leaving I went to the doctor's
to bid him good-bye; and as the people I was about to
visit were of such dubious character, I took the pistol from
the chest. Against this the doctor remonstrated, but in
such a dictatorial manner that I was at first inclined
to resist. However, reflecting that he had to guard
our means of escape, I returned it. It was now the 18th
of March. " Remember/' said I, " I shall be back within
ten days; until then it is understood nothing is to be
done with the boat." The doctor, who had never been
in a very amiable temper since my last visit to Opaka's,
did not answer, but the mate replied in the affirmative;
and, without a suspicion of treachery, I bade them
farewell.

I slept that night at Opaka's ; and the following morning,
before the other inmates were astir, when the grey dawn was
breaking, I quietly left the house, and reached the shore of
the lagoon. Nothing could exceed the tranquillity of the
scene before me. The sun was just rising from the ocean
beyond the opposite shores, and the position of ine eastern
islands was marked by low black lines along the horizon.
Tepuka, only occasionally seen from Mangerrngaro, was

226 MY DEPARTURE.

now distinctly visible some eight or nine miles distant in a
direct line, but some fifteen by the reef which I had to
traverse. Etuchaha, where I proposed to remain a night,
was more than half the distance, and one or two motos, or
small islets, intervened. Not a ripple agitated the calm
waters of the lake, and the deep solitude of the dark groves
behind me was undisturbed even by the rustle of the light
palm boughs. The tide was out, and the white sandy reef
afforded me a splendid road to travel on. Not a living
object was to be seen, and with buoyant spirits I sprang
forward on my journey with a speed that would have soon
made pursuit a vain attempt.

All at once a shrill scream broke harshly on the still-
ness, and the next instant a little girl, who lived at
Opaka's as a kind of servant, broke from the copsewood
that fringed the margin of the lagoon, rushed towards
me, and accused me of my intended flight. She had seen
me stealthily leave the house, and suspecting something
was amiss, with Indian cunning had followed me. Having
heard of my proposed visit to Tepuka, and aware of Opaka's
opposition to it, she had at once divined my intention, and
endeavoured to frustrate it. I was obliged to return to where
she stood, frightened at her own temerity, as I looked
furiously at her. I talked kindly to her, however, and in-
duced her to come with me some way along the beach till I
thought I had attained a safe distance, when I again
commenced running. But the ground was now so bad
that the child could pass over it as quickly as myself, and
kept up with me, crying lustily, but dreading to give a
louder alarm, as I threatened her when she did so. It was
fortunate, however, that she did accompany me; for on
arriving at the extreme end of the island, where the reef
takes an abrupt turn to the east, I found a kind of boat
passage deep enough in parts to take me over the head, with

PURSUED BY NATIVES. 227

ft current like a mill-race running through it. If I had at-
tempted the passage at that spot it might have proved fatal.
The girl, however, rushed in after me, and catching my
dress, pulled me back, pointing to the usual crossing-place,
which I found bad enough.

As I entered the water a shout of joy from my little com-
panion drew my attention, and I saw Oapka running at the
top of his speed, with his two spears in his hand, and the
pare on his head, as if prepared for a journey. Some dis-
tance behind were his wives, and one or two other natives.
Although I was far in advance, there was no time to be lost,
for if caught in this passage, where the bottom, filled with
huge boulders and sharp stones, was so rough, and a current
running so violently that I could with difficulty keep my feet,
I could offer no resistance. I was about half-way across,
where the water came up to my middle, when I observed
my pursuers had ceased to follow me up the channel, but had
turned out to the edge of the reef at a part where it extends
far into the lagoon. Already Opaka had dashed into its waters,
and was swimming towards the opposite reef, with the evi-
dent intention of cutting off my retreat ; and although he
had only one hand at liberty, the other being occupied
with his spears, and had fully a quarter of a mile to swim,
there was little doubt he would be able to effect his purpose.
He was not followed by the others ; but, as I gained the shore,
I observed a group of natives emerging from a house I had
not previously noticed, who joined him as he landed. I
expected them to rush furiously on me, as the Omukans
had done on a similar occasion, and looked around for a
stick, but there was none at hand. The result proved,
however, that I had nothing to fear on this head ; for when
Opaka approached me he knelt down, and, kissing me,
merely supplicated me in the most earnest and touchiug
manner to return, using every argument to induce me to do

Q2

228 A GUIDE TO TEPUKA.

so. The road, lie assured me, was very difficult, rough, and
jagged, as by holding up his fingers in every direction he
endeavoured to illustrate to me. Then planting his foot on
the ground, he sprang up with a cry of pain, and seizing it
in his hands, twisted it about in apparent agony, until, de-
lighted with his own brilliant idea, he joined in my amuse-
ment, and fairly rolled on the ground with laughter. Taking
him in this humour, I jocosely bade him adieu, and once
more started on my way. Finding I was resolved to pro-
ceed, he begged me first to come up to the house erected
for fishing parties that occasionally visited the spot, and
ordered the women to get me some food; which, as the
journey was likely to be tedious, I was not sorry to accept.
He was so kind as to order one of his people to accompany
me, giving him careful instructions for my. safe conduct;
and long after we had left the shore Opaka stood out on
the reef calling, "Ahana coe, Maitake e, ahana coe,
Maitake 6 !" which might be rendered, " Go, Maitake,
and God l?less you V 3

We now stood out towards the ocean, and found the
rocks, though rough, covered with a red sea-moss, that made
them soft and agreeable to the feet, except where the waves
had left the honeycombed coral bare. From his taciturn
manner I judged my guide was not well pleased with the
task appointed by the iriki. Being a Haka Shusha man,
he was only subject to Opaka through fear, but was the
better guide to the territories of the Tepukans, whose ally
he had formerly been, and whom he still regarded as
friends.

About half-way to Etuchaha is a small island abounding
with cocoa-nut trees, but uninhabited, though it has some
houses and an old mara. It belongs to Tepuka, and since
the subjugation of Haka Shusha has been abandoned on
account of its dangerous proximity to Sararak. From the

THE IRIKI MAUB& 229

same cause it has few cocoa-nuts, as it is frequently plun-
dered by the latter. We, however, found enough to refresh
us as we rested under the shady palms, relieved for a time
from the piercing rays of the sun, so powerfully felt on a
march over the exposed reefs.

Footsore and fatigued, I arrived at Etuchaha, where my
appearance created the usual excitement. At the extreme end
of the island, where a deep but narrow channel separates the
reef from the high land, I was obliged to swim across with
a crowd of natives of all ages, who had long before met
and were accompanying me ; and, like a second Neptune, I
arose from the waters to receive the homage of my amphibious
followers. I was at once presented to the Iriki Maurfe, a
fine-looking fellow, and Her Majesty, his wife, a very amiable-
looking, tall woman, with a soft drawling voice. Maure,
taking my hand, led me to his house, amidst the shouts of
his savage subjects, over whom he seemed to have consider-
able control. His " hare nue "(big house) was situated beneath
the shade of a to-tree, and a wide gravelled space was sur-
rounded by some smaller dwellings. He seemed to assume
more state, and was more respected, than any of the chiefs I
had yet seen. Here a mat was spread ; and food, of course,
was immediately laid before us.

With an elderly lady, who brought me a bowl of fish, I
was very much entertained. From the first she had en-
deavoured to seize on me as her natural property, clinging
to me, pushing others off, and abusing them. Even Maurfe
was not spared by her tongue ; and, from her frequently
repeating, " Matua Oahen V I guessed she was one of those
relatives of whom I already had such a variety.

There is nothing peculiar about this island ; the same high
sandbank fronting the ocean, and sloping to the flat on the
lagoon side. Like Matunga, it is very prolific ; and its cocoa-
nut groves form an intense shade over every part of it. In

230 JOURNEY TO TEPUKA.

time of active war its inhabitants generally retire to Tepuka,
to which they are subject, or rather allied.

In the morning I called my guide to proceed with me to
Tepuka; but he peremptorily refused. I threatened him
with Opaka's vengeance ; but, from his indifference, I sus-
pect that my friend had told him to prevent my further
progress. I asked Maurfe for a canoe, and he said he would
take me in the evening, as he was going there himself; but
as the same excuse was again and again repeated, I had no
doubt that their object was to detain me amongst them.
This I was the more convinced of, as I saw a canoe some
distance from shore going towards Tepuka, that had left this
place whilst I was at breakfast. In the evening, finding there
was no hope of assistance, without informing any one I
started again on my journey, taking the outer part of the
reef, which I found, like that I had passed in coming here,
covered with red sea-moss.

This is the most extensive stretch of water- washed reef
around Te Pitaka, being some three miles long and half a
mile in breadth, without a dry spot, save where here and
there a huge boulder has been torn from the coral mass,
and heaved up in some frightful storm to the broad flat
above.

When it was found I had gone off, there was, as usual,
some screaming, and a few followed and tried to detain me;
but I repelled them rather roughly, and was left to pursue
ray lonely way.

The first half of my journey being moss-clad, I got over
pretty well ; but my path afterwards began to change its cha-
racter. Deep holes and fissures presented themselves ; and
these I had to avoid, till at last, possibly losing the proper
track, I found the water gradually deepening. It was now
above my waist ; the tide was evidently on the increase ;
and I was still nearly a mile from Tepuka. To return over

UNCOMFORTABLE POSITION. 231

the broken rocks I had lately passed, with the deepened
water, would be difficult, if not impossible. Besides, I dis-
liked the idea of going back defeated. A swell from the
breakers, too, occasionally rolled along the reef, that almost
threw me off my feet. Near the edge of the lagoon, how-
ever, was a clump of boulders, which, if I could reach them,
would afford me a resting-place. I turned in that direction,
but the water deepened rapidly ; and as they were about a
quarter of a mile off, I could not hppe to reach them by
swimming. My frequent bathings had improved me much in
this exercise, but now the current ran too strong against me.
Wherever I moved, the water was up to my armpits ; and
I began to feel strangely uncomfortable. How long the
tide had yet to rise I was not aware, but its receding
was my only hope of escape, as I knew it did not rise
more than about three feet. I stood still to observe its
progress on my own person — a horrible sensation ! to watch
its slow advance, and calculate the chances of escape, or
the certainty of death. As my eyes wandered over the ex-
pause of waters, to my inexpressible delight I beheld a
canoe with some people at no great distance in the lagoon,
bending towards Tepuka. I shouted at the top of my
voice, and they paused. I shouted again, jumping and
splashing in the water to attract their attention ; and a
man, who had stood up in the canoe, answered to my call,
and came rapidly to my rescue. I hastened to meet him,
and was soon taken on board, where, besides the man, were
a woman and two boys. They had been fishing beside
some rock in the lagoon, which had prevented my seeing
them, and were now returning to Tepuka. Naturally
astonished at the position they had found me in, the boys
seemed as frightened as if I were some huge sea-monster
they had got into the boat with them. The man and
woman, however, who had seen me at Mangerongaro, at once

232 ONE 07 mahauta's wives.

recognised me, and, repeating my name, expressed their
delight at having assisted me*

I now began to feel the excessive pain of my feet, which
the anxiety of my position while in the water, where they
had been cut and pierced by the coral and little sharp-
pointed sheUs, had prevented me thinking about.

As we pulled along shore my boatman called out my name
to some stragglers on. the beach, who passed it up through
the island ; and, by the time we arrived at the landing-place,
a large crowd had assembled, who, instead of killing and eat-
ing me, as had been prophesied, evinced every mark of rude
but kind attention. On landing, I asked for Mahauta Nufe,
and they at once lifted me as they had done at Matunga,
and carried me to one of his houses, pleasantly situated on
the high bank of the opposite shore, and protected from the
south winds by thickly-foliaged pandanas-trees. One of
his three wives, that presided over this quarter of his
dominions, was a remarkably handsome woman, with re-
gular European features and beautifully-curled auburn hair.
Her skin also was of a lighter shade than common. Her
carriage and expression might be called aristocratic, and
there Has something in her manner that conveyed the same
impression. Had she been on any of the civilized islands,
I should at once have proclaimed her a half-caste. I re-
collected having seen this woman in Mangerongaro, at
the Tepukan camp, where her appearance had struck me;
and she now seemed much gratified at my remembering
her, and spoke of it with evident pride to those around.

On my inquiries for Mahauta, they informed me he was
"Mai aroa" (a long way off), but would soon return.

I had been seated under the shade of one of the aforesaid
trees, and the crowd, momentarily increasing, was becoming
distressingly affectionate, when a harsh voice from behind
made them all start to their feet, and the next instant I was

A SAVAGE OLD PRIEST. 233

left entirely alone. Even Mahauta' s wife, who had sat beside
me with my hand in hers, harried from me at this stern sum-
mons. When I looked around for the owner of- the com-
manding voice, I beheld a figure that I at once recollected
having seen during the visit of these people at Mangeron-
garo. He had lived in one of the canoes, and would not
contaminate his feet with the soil of his enemies, as I
believe he never landed during his stay*

He was a tall and remarkably spare old man, with long
silver-grey hair and beard, beneath which his shrivelled dark
skin had a strange effect. His eyes were small, but fiery ;
and his dried-up skin had contracted his mouth, so as to
exhibit his white and still regular teeth. I was not yet
sufficiently acquainted with the language to understand the
harangue which, when I approached him, he delivered with
much volubility, accompanied by the usual slapping on the
hips. From the epithets that I occasionally heard, and his
actions, I judged that it was anything but flattering to
myself; and I imagined that he was urging them to sacrifice
me, not to his gods, but to his appetite. This was one
of their priests, and knowing they possessed great power
I did not feel very comfortable. While I was indulging in
very disagreeable anticipations, the shout of "Mahauta
Nufe !" spread through the wide circle, which opened to
admit their celebrated and beloved chief.

Little though I valued life in this place, my heart bounded
with delight, as I considered his appearance a reprieve from
certain death. In breathless haste he broke through the
throng, and was about to rush to me, when he was arrested in
the action by the old white-haired priest, who in the most
vehement manner denounced me. Mahauta hesitated and
walked up and down, occasionally stopping to appeal, as it
seemed to me, to the old man's humanity. I tried, all this
time, to catch Mahauta's eye, and at last succeeded. I held

234 MAHAUTA Ntj£.

out my hand, and nodded with apparent confidence — a
feeling which was far from my heart — reminding him at the
same time of our intimacy at Mangerongaro. The noble
Mahauta at once sprang towards me, and, throwing himself
on the ground, performed the usual salutation ; after which
he attacked old White-head with a volley of abuse, sending
him off in a burst of indignation. Even with his success, the
chief did not appear very comfortable, and urged me away
from the place to one of his other houses, farther removed
from the residence of the priest, where I could be more im-
mediately under his own protection.

The people would have carried me again; but, notwith-
standing the soreness of my feet, now much inflamed and
swollen, I insisted on walking. Instead of the sand common
to the other islands, Tepuka, strange to say, is almost en-
tirely formed of rough coral gravel, and is possibly of more
recent formation than the others, or has been completely
washed over at times by the waves of the southerly tempests.
Observing the pain the rough ground caused me, the people
brought mats from their houses and branches of palm-leaves,
and strewed them in my path, to make it easier. In this the
children of Mahauta were particularly active ; and, when any
of them became rather noisy, they were reminded of it by a
shower of gravel from the hands of their father, the ordinary
chastisement of juvenile delinquents. When we arrived at
his house the crowd kept a respectful distance, forming a
large circle round the place. With a sharp fish-bone
Mahauta now began to extract the points of shells that had
broken in my feet ; and although he performed the operation
with as much tenderness as possible, it was so excessively
painful, the parts being much inflamed, that I was obliged to
make him desist.

When it was time for the evening meal, amongst the
privileged guests were two chiefs — one an old man, 1 think

THE GREAT MARA. 235

an uncle of Mahauta — and another from the farther end of
the island, with his son and daughter, both nearly grown up.
The latter was very pretty and modest-looking, and presented
me with a shell of " pashu^s/' the excellent shell-fish before
mentioned, which are very abundant here, and the chief ac-
companiment to their cocoa-nuts. They are fished for prin-
cipally by women, who, in their search for them amongst the
rocks, to which they are found adhering tenaciously at a
considerable depth, swim often a mile or two from shore,
carrying with them a basket and a piece of hoop iron, or
sharp stone, to detach them from their beds. They take
also a paddle or other piece of wood, which, placed partly
under them as they swim, helps to sustain them in the
water, and, at the fishing ground, supports the basket into
which the shell-fish are cast on arriving at the surface.
These women will sometimes remain two or three hours in
the water, being perhaps unsurpassed by any natives of the
Pacific in diving and swimming.

The following morning my feet were in such a state that I
could not put them to the ground; and, whatever pain it
might cost me, I found it imperative that the irritating par-
ticles should be extracted. My operators, of whom I had
two or three, certainly performed their task very effectively,
but a fish bone is not the most efficient instrument for
probing one's feet.

The following day, as I was able to move about, I was shown
their great maxa, celebrated throughout the group for its
extent, the size of the stones, and for some peculiar religious
qualities. In the centre were several tombs of great Tepuka
chiefs, long since called to their fathers. The large stones
forming these structures would not have made contemptible
monuments for some of our own illustrious dead. One in
particular was pointed out, supposed, as well as I could un-
derstand, to be that of the founder of their race, the original

236 A " FOREIGN " BIRD.

Mahauta, who came here with his wife Ocura, bringing in
his great canoe cocoa-nuts and other plants for the earth,
fish for the sea, and birds for the air. As he is universally
admitted to have landed in Tepuka, we may infer that he
came from the southern islands, and not from a land beyond
the sky, as the ancient faith of the islanders would lead us
to believe.

After leaving the mara the next greatest curiosity was a
" manu te arorangfc," or foreign bird. My interest was now
a little excited. I hoped to have discovered some novel
specimen of ornithology ; but what was my surprise to behold
a splendid red cock, or " rooster/' as our American friends
call it — one of those formerly belonging to our ship, which,
as I approached, clapped its wings, and gave a loud crow, as if
in recognition of an old friend. I must confess the sight of
it gave me more pleasure than if I had discovered a dodo or
any more fabulous bird ; and I question whether the goose of
golden-egg memory could have afforded me greater gratifica-
tion than this familiar fowl, which brought a thousand re-
collections of past times, my distant home, and its quiet
domestic happiness.

I imitated its crowing so well that it answered me, to the
inexpressible delight of the natives, who, as I repeated the
experiment, came rushing in crowds to hear me speaking to
it, as they believed — an impression which I was wicked
enough to confirm. When they asked me what it said I told
them, as well as I could, that it desired me to pray that
it might always have plenty to eat, and that they would
not allow the children to hurt it. Their credulous looks
and exclamations appeared so ridiculous, that I could not
help laughing, and thus, I fear, did no credit to my own
story. I told them if they had a " oahene mow," or hen,
for it, they might have many young, to which they joyously
replied they had j and off we went to another part of the

MAHAUTA. 237

island, where they triumphantly showed me a large white
Muscovy drake, also from the ship. Greatly amused at
their simplicity, I explained to them their mistake, at which
they appeared very much disappointed. The cock had cer-
tainly no right to complain of his treatment, for, being really
a magnificent bird, with a splendid tail, he was held in great
estimation; but the poor duck, though well fed, being un-
clean, got many a thump as it waddled through the houses
of the natives.

I believe Mahauta was at this time preparing for a great
warlike expedition; for, in wandering through the island, I
observed the various parts of one or more canoes that had
been taken asunder now being scraped and polished up, pre-
paratory to being again put together with new cordage. I
suppose it was a secret matter, for he said nothing to me
about it. On this day I visited another of his houses, pre-
sided over by his favourite wife, a young and beautiful
woman, rather embonpoint, and apparently greatly attached
to him. Whilst he was with me he invariably had me seated
on his great stout knees, as he sat cross-legged; or, when I
objected to this, on the mat close beside him. He was not
by any means so intelligent a man as Opaka ; but was always
up to fun, and greatly delighted when I mimicked the pecu-
liarities of some of the people. During supper, when I
ridiculed old Taha's great mouth and voracious manner of
eating, he dropped his own food and lay down to laugh.

238

CHAPTER IX,

Mahauta's Resistance to my Departure — A Great Man insulted—
Inhospitable Natives — Sufferings from my Feet — Mahauta's
Children — Penrhyn Canoe under Sail — Return to Haka Shusba
— Unaccountable Departure of the Doctor — My Hopeless Situa-
tion — Designs attributed to the Captain — -Great Attention
shown to us by the Matungans — Franke's Determination to
marry — Stay in Sararak — The Captain's Boat "tabooed" —
Angry Discussion — Caught in an Attempt to remove the Boat
— Visit of " Old Monitu " — Artifice to recover the Doctor's
Dagger — A Difference proposed for Arbitration — Acquisition of
a Pistol and Powder — Manufacture of Lead Balls — Renewed
Disturbance about the Boat — An Act of Perfidy — An Unex-
pected Visitor — Haka Moe Kakara — Habits of the Native
Women — Visit to Matunga — Importance attributed to the
Married State — Curious and Irritating Scene — Numerous Visi-
tors — A Messenger from Matunga — Absurd Apprehensions pro-
duced by the Flying of a Kite — Native Quarrels — An Alarm —
A Friendly Visit — A Stratagem of Turua's — Violent Epidemic
— Illness and Recovery of Chera Puna — Animosity excited
against us — Speech of an Old Chief — My Reply.

AS I had seen all that I required here, I resolved to pro*
ceed up the western side of the lagoon. On mentioning
my intention, it received the usual opposition, and on the
following morning I had an angry debate on the subject
with Mahauta, whom I left in high dudgeon at my desertion.
When I proceeded on my journey, his boy and girl, who had
become much attached to me, followed, crying heartily, as
well as some of their juvenile friends, who joined the chorus
in sympathy. The natives, hearing the cries, began to as-

RESISTANCE TO MY DEPARTURE. 239

semble, and, finding that I left in opposition to the wishes of
the Mahauta family, endeavoured to oppose my progress in a
fashion different from any I had yet met, and one likely to
be more effectual. This was a kind of passive resistance.
Masses of them congregated directly in my path, through
whom I could with difficulty force my way. This accom-
plished, I encountered palm boughs interwoven from tree to
tree. These, however, not being very high, I at first cleared
with a bound, to the infinite astonishment of the natives,
who are not expert at this exercise, for which, in their level
country, they have no occasion. They are neither good
runners nor walkers, having a bad gait, lifting their feet
very high — I presume from the habit of walking among
stones and wading on the reefs. Higher fences of the same
kind I either broke through with the weight of my body, or
bore down with a heavy stick I had supplied myself with
before leaving. This opposition was carried on for some
time, with the best temper on their part, though I confess I
became irritated myself. I soon came, however, to a part
of the island where the people showed rather a different
spirit. Not content with placing themselves in my way,
they began to jostle me and push me back with evident
marks of bad feeling. This I knew was the opposite faction,
and the children of Mahauta now cried more lustily than
ever, and begged me to return. This I would not do. Defeat
would have been ruin to my position, which it was an
essential matter for me to maintain in case I should ever
come back on a pearling expedition.

At this juncture a gigantic native seized my hat, and
drew back with it. Forbearance was of course now out of
the question. I rushed towards him with my stick, on which
he took to his heels, and, as I had a sore foot, he would pos-
sibly have outstripped me. Picking up some stones, there-
fore, I sent them after him with so good an aim that he

240 A "great man" insulted.

instantly dropped the hat, and quickened his pace till he '
lost to sight amongst his native groves.

There was now a tremendous sensation, for it was a great
man I had struck. Some ran for their spears, enraged at
my insolence. The children made off, screaming to their
parents to help me, and fortunately there were not wanting
many to respond to the call. A wrangling match, as usual,
now took place, during which, attended by two or three
women and some children, I got clear of the crowd, and was
soon splashing amongst the waters of the reef, accompanied
by a young man whom I had observed following me from the
time I started, and who, I suspect, did so at the instigation
of Mahauta.

The reef at this point was so rough, and my feet were
so painful, that on arriving at the next island, only inhabited
by two families, I found I must abandon my enterprise.
The people of the place, too, were so reserved and rude that
they would not give me a drink of cocoa-nut water to quench
my burning thirst. This, I suspect, was in accordance with
the orders of Mahauta, as I saw my companion conversing
with the natives privately after our arrival. It was quite
impossible for me to proceed farther that day unless' I had a
canoe, which the natives peremptorily refused; and, fearing I
should seize one then on the beach, some of the young people
carried it out to sea. Worn out with the difficulties I had
had to encounter, I lay down in one of the miserable huts of
this place.

I had not long been in this position when, to my great
delight, I beheld peeping into the hut the faces of Mahauta's
children. They waved their hands and shook their heads in
a manner expressive of sorrow, and coming in, threw them-
selves down beside me, begging me to return, which I at
last, apparently with reluctance, acceded to. The boy now
produced a basket of provisions he had brought for me, con-

AN ENGLISH KISS. 241

taining 'some muko-mukos, from which I at first quenched
my consuming thirst, and afterwards was able to attack the
neu oara and fish with equal gusto. The lad had taken
such an affection for me that, though he was rather for-
ward, it would have been difficult to avoid liking him in
return. When, with much persuasion, I arose to accom-
pany them, their joy was unbounded. The young girl
danced about me, clapping her hands, throwing her
beautiful arms around me, and kissing me after the formal
and unloving manner of her people. She looked so lovely
in her bright and joyous movements, that I also threw my
arms round her graceful form, and kissed her after the Eng-
lish fashion. This was against all the rules of Pitaka de-
corum. She looked thunderstruck, and so ashamed that the
next moment she took flight, but soon returned, smiling
and joyous as ever.

The young Mahauta now insisted on my carrying a spear
he had brought with him, perhaps supposing it added to
my dignity ; after which, proceeding to the beach, he com-
manded the canoe to be brought in shore.. He was obeyed
with alacrity, and we all returned to Tepuka, where Mahauta
received me in his former friendly manner.

Wearied and ill from my recent exertions, the next day I
remained in the house. Indeed, since my arrival on the
islands I had scarcely ever been well. The heat, of course,
was enervating, and the cocoa-nut diet did not agree with
me. When I had abundance of fish I was well enough, but
this was only occasionally. When I had to live on cocoa-
nuts alone I was invariably attacked with diarrhoea.

The following morning, being the eighth from the day on
which I left Mangerongaro, I told Mahauta that I was about
to take my departure, and asked him for a canoe. He, of
course, again endeavoured to induce me to stay, but being
now sensible that opposition was useless (my firmness or

&

242 A FEKBHTN CANOE UNDER SAIL.

stubbornness being to the natives, who are fickle as the wind,
an unaccountable quality), he put a canoe at my disposal^
which was to land me at Haka Shusha, as none of his people
dared land at Sararak.

I now for the first time saw a Penrhyn canoe under sail.
Its mode of propulsion is, I should think, the most original
to be seen in any part of the world. The sail is as simple
in construction as it is primitive in appearance. For the
purpose three long palm-boughs are cut from the nearest
tree, and, after a few strips of bark have been torn from them,
they are conveyed to the canoe. The lower or thick end of
a bough is placed at the bottom of the canoe, with its
long slender leaves standing perpendicularly to the height
of about ten feet, and made fast to the cross-bar of the out-
rigger, which runs across the little vessel. A bough is then
placed on either side of this, attached to it at the bottom,
but inclined outward, and also fastened to the cross-bar. At
the top the slender ends of the latter are bowed over to the
centre end, the mingling leaves of all being interlaced a little
to present further resistance to the wind. This, when com*
pleted, forms a broad saiL Strips of bark are fastened to the
most extended part of the outer boughs, which are again se-
cured to the stern outrigger : and thus the cocoa-nut tree sup-
plies more of their necessaries — sails, masts, spars, and rig-
ging being all constructed in a few minutes from its boughs.

As there is no step for the mast to rest in, this de-
ficiency is supplied by a little boy, who sits in the bottom
of the oaka with his feet against it. By trimming the
lee side of the sail a little aft, the boat will keep her
course by the help of the paddle when the wind is on the
quarter, but will not sail on a wind; or even with the wind
abeam, when, having little hold on the water, she drifts to
leeward. When the wind shifts thus the sail is taken in in
as primitive a manner as it is set. The lashing being cut, and

UNEXPECTED EVENT. 243

the back-stays cast off, away goes the whole ship's rigging
overboard, the work of refitting being very speedy and easy.

Towards the end of our voyage we had the wind on the
quarter, blowing pretty fresh, and I had to remain with my
feet at the bottom of the mast, whilst the small boy sat on
the out-rigger to keep her from capsizing, moving out on it
or in again as the wind increased or fell.

In about an hour and a half we landed in Haka Shusha* a
distance of some eight miles, my boatmen cutting away their
sail, and paddling off again with all their might, in fear of
being caught by their enemies.

I now directed my steps towards Opaka's, en route to
Dr. R., whom I would take a little by surprise, it being
two days before my appointed time. It still wanted fivq
days to the end of the month, and I determined, on my
return, to have the boat promptly hauled up and repaired
as far as practicable, to have her ready for the first favourable
opportunity. As I hastened along the familiar strand I felt
in better spirits than I had done since I had landed on these
islands, for deliverance seemed before me. I was well to-day,
and felt stronger. In a pleasanter frame of mind than any I
had enjoyed since the day of our shipwreck, I reached the
house of Opaka. To my astonishment it was closed up in
mourning. When I came near enough to be observed, the
people commenced a low whining wail, and issuing from
their dens, approached me, exclaiming, " Oa hana te bote,
oa hana te Longa Manfe ! no to michfe Opaka oa hana !"
(" The boat is gone, the Long Man is gone I the child of
Opaka has left us I")

It was not possible ! I would not believe it, and in my
rage I told them they lied. They pointed to the cuttings on
their bodies as an evidence of the truth. "Who accom-
panied him ?" I asked. " The mate, the captain, and his
brother," was the reply. This was still more improbable.

E 2

244 DESERTED BT THE DOCTOR.

What I the doctor ally himself with the man on whom he
had heaped every abusive epithet, and who, he had sworn,
should never leave in the boat again whilst he had life?
After our mutual pledge that we should go together in the
next attempt, he could not have been base enough to desert
me without any cause that I could then think of.

I at once hastened to learn the truth or falsehood of this
statement. I arrived at Dr. R.'s house, which was shut up
and tabooed. He was indeed gone ! And all my hopes of
deliverance, at least for a time, were gone with him ; for, as
he had an idea of pearling here, I felt satisfied he would not
disclose the position of the island until he could return him-
self with a vessel, for which purpose he must first reach Chile,
he having no means elsewhere of entering into the matter,
and, even thence, his return was doubtful.

I cannot express the utter hopelessness that I then felt ;
and it was with difficulty that I could refrain from tears as I
sat on the ground before that deserted house. Many of the
natives, who had heard of my return, were gathered around,
and with a delicacy wonderful in so rude a people, kept at a
little distance on beholding my distress. One of them, how-
ever, at last approached, and told me that Frankfe and Joe
were still here. I at once went, conducted by natives, to
the place where they were, and was informed by Franks
that no sooner had I left than the captain and the doctor
arranged that they, the mate, and second mate should at
once proceed with the boat to Humphreys' Island before I
could return ; and so expeditious were they, that in six days,
two before my return, they were under way. I asked
Frankfe how he, who had so devotedly attached himself to
the doctor, happened to be left behind. He said he had
suspected latterly that the doctor would object to his accom-
panying him, and hinted at his jealous disposition having
been excited recently against him. "And for the same

THE CAPTAIN^ SCHEMES. 245

reason/' said he, " I thought that the doctor would try and
get off without you also, if possible/' He said he had
remonstrated with him on his conduct, and stated that if I
were there I would not allow the captain or his brother to
go in the boat.

Joe said his reasons for refusing to go again in the boat
were his fears that there would be bad work before the
end of their journey, however short it might be, for both
the captain and the doctor had threatened each other's lives.
Before he left the former time, whilst we lay at Tokferau,
the captain had told him the plan he meant to adopt was
to approach one of the neighbouring savage islands, and cast
the doctor, adrift, after which he should return and take
his brother off, and the whole party should proceed to a
certain beautiful uninhabited island he was acquainted with,
and there raise live stock quietly for a few years, till they
had a sufficient quantity for a cargo to California, by which
means they could soon realize a fortune.

"But," added Prank, "there is a chance of overtaking the
boat yet, for the doctor said, if the weather proved un-
favourable, he would remain at Tokferau for a good wind ; and
as it has been rather squally, possibly they may not have
ventured out"

" Why did you not tell me this before, instead of keeping
me here talking nonsense?'' said I. "Will either of you
accompany me, for I shall start there immediately ?"

Joe declined, but Franke at once volunteered.

" Come along," said I. " But first let us return to the
doctor's house to find a hoop-iron weapon and knife I left in
the roof. As for my pistol, I suppose he carried it off with
him."

I found that he had not only done so, but, strange to say,
had also broken up the other things, as well as my knife.
What his objection could be to our possessing arms for our

246 ARRIVAL AT TOKERAU.

protection I could not conceive, unless lie feared that some
of us might follow the boat. I saw that we were likely to
meet with opposition, and as we must have arms of some kind,
I thonght that O Pai Tangata would give us native spears.
The captain and his saintly brother I was determined should
be compelled to leave the vessel.

We hurried, therefore, to the house of O Pai Tangata,
where I found all my friends assembled to perform a pehu on
my return, and great was their disappointment at my refusal
to participate in the ceremony. On making my object
known, they at first endeavoured to dissuade me from it ;
but, as I was starting off on foot, O Pai Tangata told me his
canoe was now in order, and at my disposal. Taking an old
blanket (in the possession of one of the natives), to use
it as a sail, I fastened it to a palm-branch, and our little
party was soon under way. The distance by sea was only
seven or eight miles, which, with a light wind and the
paddles, we accomplished in about two hours. As we ap-
proached Tokerau I looked anxiously towards the landing-
place and along the beach for the little schooner, or for some
appearance of the excitement that her presence would have
occasioned; but everything bore the quiet, monotonous
aspect common to these shores in their usual state. My
last hope, therefore, was gone — the boat had certainly de-
parted.

Loud shouts to the larboard attracted our attention, and
we beheld a number of canoes from Matunga rapidly ap-
proaching. I had been seen from the shores of that island
when passing, and the whole male population now advanced with
loud shouts of friendly greeting, notwithstanding my former
rude departure from them. Franke, thinking of their late
treatment of himself, beheld their approach with conside-
rable distrust ; but I assured him of his being well received
on this occasion, otherwise I would return with him* As

TABOOED TREES. 247

there was a possibility, too, of the schooner putting back, I
was anxious to be near the entrance to the lagoon.

On the approach of the natives they were most profuse in
their demonstrations of attachment to me— -each individual,
as his canoe came alongside mine, performing the most abject
salutations, and begging me to return to my own island,
where everything was at my disposal. I told them I could
only land on condition that Franke, who was my adopted
brother, should be treated in the same way as myself. This
they declared should be the case. With every demonstra-
tion of joy we were accompanied to the landing-place, which
was crowded with the women and children evincing equal
delight. A grand pehu was of course performed in honour
of our party; and Franke, who had never received so much
attention before, was greatly elated, for in their desire to
please me, they lavished as much attention on him as on
myself.

On proceeding to the house formerly appropriated to me
by Taharua, I found it decked out with the tabooed palm-
branches, its precincts having been held sacred during my
absence. One side of Turn's great house— the half I had
occupied — was also tabooed, as were various parts of the
island I had been in the habit of visiting, the pool of fresh
water where I bathed, one or two spots along the beach, and
some cooking utensils. Certain cocoa-nut trees were hence-
forth appropriated to my use, from which it was a deadly sin
for any even of my nearest relatives to eat, though I might
present their fruit to strangers. In most communities
there are trees thus tabooed belonging to departed friends,
and their produce can only be made use of by bartering
them for others of a similar character.

Franke appeared much disappointed when the extreme
attention he had received on his first landing began to
decline ; and he soon astounded me by the declaration — I sup-

248 STAT IN SARARAK.

posed on that account — that he intended to leave the island.
As he was resolved to go, and I felt indebted to him for
sharing my recent voyage here, I told him I should accom-
pany him. I had the usual difficulty in getting off; but, on
my earnestly assuring the natives of my intended return,
they reluctantly appropriated a canoe to our use to convey
us to Omuka. From thence we proceeded on foot to Sararak,
through Mutagohichfe, where I had no intention of stopping ;
but meeting with my young friends Juan and Harry, who
had taken up" their abode there, they induced us to visit their
houses, and entertained us most hospitably. Having met
with kinder treatment than I had experienced on my first
visit, they had adopted this island as their head-quarters, and
taken unto themselves wives. These were the first matri-
monial connexions formed here by any of our people, and
Franks was so enraptured at the exhibition of conjugal
felicity, that he, too, determined to marry, his choice falling
on the beautiful Tokarora.

The following morning we crossed the reef at low water,
and were received in Sararak with the usual honours, more
particularly as the place was deserted by nearly all our
companions, whose curiosity had led them to the neighbour-
ing islands. Frankfe at once proceeded to the house of
Opaka, at the other end of the island, on his mission of
love, so that I was left for a time almost alone amongst the
natives.

During my present stay in Sararak I made myself more
popular amongst the people than I had heretofore been. I
told them of the manners and customs of other countries,
particularly interesting the women by descriptions of dresses,
the various kinds of food, and household economy generally.
Night after night, before retiring to rest, I had a crowd of
attentive listeners urging me to tell them of the foreign land
— "Caranga te arorange." The men were delighted with

BEMOVAL OF THE CAPTAINS PUNT. 249

my description of our means of travelling — on horseback, in
carriages, railways, and steamboats — of which, however, they
could form but very indistinct ideas, though I cut out some
little models in wood to illustrate my instructions. But their
chief delight, perhaps, was in accounts of our mode of war-
fare, our battles by land and sea, the power of artillery,
and some mimic battles, in which the male population joined
with such ardour that I was obliged to discontinue them.

The little punt built by the captain had been placed on
his departure in a house hallowed by the strictest taboo.
Wretched as it was, I knew that this boat would at all times
afford me a certain means of transit from one place to
another, and I was determined to have it at any risk. On
one occasion, when the people were in their best humour,
I made the proposal to them that they should deliver me up
the boat. My request struck them with consternation. They
told me it was impossible to break the taboo, and coaxed me
not to insist. The people of Mangerongaro proper, who had
been the captain's more immediate friends, and on whose
land the tabooed boat rested, violently opposed the proposi-
tion, and our meeting finally broke up with a declaration on
my part that I would have the boat, and one on theirs of
determined resistance.

It might have been about a week after our angry discus-
sion, when the affair seemed forgotten, that I decided to
remove the punt from the taboo-house. It is usual for the
natives to take a siesta during the hottest hours of the day ;
and about noon of a very sultry day, when all lay sleeping
in their huts, and everything was as still as midnight, I
brought Frankfe and Bob to the taboo-house, and told them
I wanted their assistance in hauling the boat to the beach.
The Kanaka was alarmed at the proposition, but feared to
refuse. Franks readily consented. For my own part, aware of
the frightful consequences of the breach of a strict taboo in

250 A CHIEF LAID LOW.

the Marquesas, it was not without trepidation that I began
to tear down the barrier of sacred palms, conducting the
whole proceedings with the utmost caution ; for we were in
the centre of one of the most populous districts, and could
hear the sonorous tones of more than one sleeper at no great
distance. The boat was not very large, but it was clumsy and
difficult to carry, so that we were compelled to lay it down
on our way to the beach. Whilst thus resting a little girl
passed near enough to observe our object, and immediately
gave the alarm. I sprang forward in a threatening manner
to make her cease her cries; but my movement only in-
creased her terror. With reiterated screams, she eluded
my grasp, and darted through the woods, calling for assis-
tance, which was soon rendered to her. We had only a short
distance to convey the boat to the water, and had almost
arrived at the beach, when a wild shout told us the natives
were upon us ; and almost instantly I felt myself seised in the
grasp of a powerful chief, who secured me so that I could
offer little resistance. Incensed at finding myself pinioned
by a savage, I uttered a shout of rage, which made him relax
his grasp sufficiently to permit my wheeling round, and the
next moment he measured his length on the ground, in con-
sequence of a well-directed blow which I administered to
him. This sudden attack on their chief threw the remainder
into a state of confusion, from which they had not time
to recover before we had the boat in the lagoon, and were
pulling away out of reach of their spears, using the seats for
paddles ; the latter having been left behind in the hurried
launching of the boat.

It had been my intention to proceed with our prize to one
of the neighbouring islands, where the taboo of this was not
respected ; but to this course several objections now occurred
to me. The boat was leaky from having been long out of the
water, which made the want of seats to be uncomfortably felt,

CONCEALMENT OF THE BOAT. 251

they being our only paddles ; and as she was very crank,
to stand was impossible. Franke, too, not having brought
his matrimonial arrangements to a conclusion, was re-
luctant to leave ] and I decided, therefore, on putting into
the Tahiti district, relying on my friends there to sustain
me in my acquisition. On landing there, I found the people
divided between their horror at my breach of the taboo, and
their desire to serve me. The restoration of the abducted
property was almost instantly demanded ; and I was urged
by my friends to give it up, which I decidedly declined to
do, hinting at my influence with the Matungana to help me
in my demands. A private conference was therefore held,
the result of which was, that the boat was delivered into my
hands. That night, about midnight, I was awakened from
my sleep by the tread of numerous feet, and the suppressed
sound of voices in the vicinity of my house. I at once sus-
pected that it was a party bent on carrying back the boat;
and I was rising to endeavour to prevent the accomplishment
of their object, when the two boys of O Pai Tangata, who
slept near me, threw themselves before me, begging me not
to go out, as it was the spirits, and they would surely kill me.
Though not much afraid of spirits, on second considera-
tion I thought it impolitic to enter into a struggle with these
people at night, when I should ,most probably suffer defeat,
which would certainly deprive me of all influence among
them. I pretended, therefore, to believe the boys, and
lay down again on my hard bed in no very enviable
mood. When morning broke, I found my fears realized.
The boat was gone— carried off, as they stated, by the " Huie
atua." This, for reasons of my own, was a statement
I did not attempt to dispute at the time. I soon found it had
not been taken back to the place from whence we had
abstracted it, but was hidden in the house of a chief, who
watched it with jealous care.

2$2 DISCOVERY OP THE DOCTOR'S DAGGER.

#

The following day old Monitu arrived on a visit from
Matunga with the dxied-up remains of his dearly-beloved
spouse rolled in her winding mat ; and as the event afforded
an opportunity for feasting, with "pehus," "capa/' and
other dances, I had hopes of being enabled once more
to carry off the boat; but all the time it was so closely
watched that I could not attempt it, particularly as I was
unarmed.

On great occasions like the present the natives generally
display all their finery, and I anticipated that my sword,
which I had not seen since the first week of landing, would
now make its appearance amongst the general decorations.
Pieces of cloth, rope, old stockings, and canvas were paraded
grotesquely about their persons, but the coveted weapon re-
mained secretly stowed away. I was still searching for it,
wheu Franke reported the discovery of Dr. R/s dagger,
that he had seen in the possession of the chief of Haka
Shusha, and which had been stolen from the doctor by his
venerable mother, Pusfc. As this was a much-coveted article
— a weapon the flash of which was greatly dreaded in the
hand of a white man — I felt that to recover it a little artifice
and much caution would be necessary. Picking up a piece of
hoop iron, I proceeded to the house of the Haka Sbushan
chief (whose* name I now forget), where I was hospitably
received. During the day I produced the piece of iron,
saying I should like to make him a fish-hook if he had a
file — which I was aware he had. This he readily gave me,
and after working with it for some time, till I had a long
strip filed off, I told him I required something to cut
it in two. He at once pushed his hand into the roof of the
house, and produced the long-lost dagger; which, however,
after a moment's pause for reflection, he evidently hesitated
to deliver into my hands, offering many excuses, and ex-
pressing his opinion that, as I had cut the iron so far

ATTEMPT TO RECOVER IT. 253

with the file, I might do the remainder with it. This I
apparently acceded to, and asked him to give me a
drink of cocoa-nut water. In order to comply with my
request he innocently laid down the dagger, which I at once
sprang upon. He was for a moment so astounded that he
sat in stupid amazement I told him that as it had been
stolen from our house I alone had a right to possess it. He
was not inclined to part so easily with the weapon ;
and when I turned to leave the house he stood in my path,
and furiously seizing an axe that lay near, seemed disposed
to dispute my passage. A flourish of the glittering knife,
however, was enough to make him get out of my way. For-
tunately for me, most of the people of the district being
at the time away fishing, his shouts for assistance were only
responded to at first by two or three old women. Before I
got to the firm sandy beach, however, where I knew I could
outrun them, if such a step was necessary, two young men
with spears joined the pursuing party, and came on in so
fierce a manner that I was obliged to take shelter behind a
tree, which gave me time for a parley. Threatening them
with the vengeance of both my white and Kanaka friends,
I managed to get from tree to tree till I reached the
beach, where they contented themselves by following me at
a distance till we arrived at Mangerongaro. Here we were
soon joined by a crowd of natives, friends of both parties,
who agreed that the affair should be left to the arbitration
of O Fai Tangata, before whom the whole population of the
island assembled, to hear the matter laid before him, and his
decision on it.

A great many speeches were made, of which I then under-
stood but little; and finally my august father, as he was
anxious to conciliate the chiefs, aiming as he did at supreme
command, recommended me to return the dagger, at the
same time giving me a peculiar look, from which I un-

254 DEFENSIVE OPERATIONS.

derstood that he wished me to retain it. I then endeavoured
to make them understand that as the article had been stolen
from the doctor it should be returned to him, and the thief
punished, as in the white man's country. I also added that
as I was the principal person amongst the whites, it was my
duty to retain the weapon in the doctor's absence. Should
they decide that I ought to give it up, I threatened to break
it into pieces first, and then go off to one of the islands of
their enemies, never returning to them again. O Pai Tangata
said what I urged was just, and my threat of joining their
opponents had some effect in making the others agree with
him; but he said the people were afraid that on some occa-
sion I might use the " tib&" (knife) against them, and if I
would give it to him, my father, they would be satisfied.
Wishing to conciliate them as much as possible, being now
determined to make another effort to recover the boat, I
acceded to this, and hung the dagger about his neck, well
knowing that I could get it when I required it. The meet-
ing, therefore, broke up, all apparently satisfied [except the
Haka Shushan chief and his household.

About this time I found near the site of our old house
some powder cartridges, and though they had been wet, I per-
ceived, when I dried the powder in the sun, that it was still
effective. This I rolled up in numerous pieces of pailcloth
to preserve it from further injury, and set about seeking for
my Colt's revolver. All my search, however, proved fruitless,
and I believe it had never been recovered from the wreck.
One of the natives brought me a large horse pistol/which, as
he did not know the use of it, he presented to me. I
now cut up a pewter spoon found in a friend's house for slugs,
and began to feel myself in a more comfortable position for
defensive operations, should I be compelled to put my arms
into use.

During Monitu's stay we had several other visitors to the

BECOVERY OF THE BOAT. 255

island, amongst the rest two more of oar crew. To make
room for these strangers the coveted boat was returned to the
taboo-house. I now urged Franke, if he intended to join
me, to make arrangements to do so at once, as I was de-
termined, whilst I had the assistance of the two extra hands,
to get off the boat. His affair, however, seeming as far from
a settlement as ever, I gathered our men together one day at
noon, and, before the people were awakened from their nap by
the shout of a woman on the beach, I had the boat in the
water, and was about to paddle her once more towards my
home, where I intended only to stay long enough to put
some clothing, &c. into her.

My delay, however, was longer than I had anticipated, for
I had scarcely got into the boat when down came the
whole Mangerongaro faction, armed to the teeth, with old
Tere at their head in a towering passion, declaring that, in
spite of all opposition, he would carry off the boat with him.
He and his party certainly looked rather formidable as they
advanced flourishing their spears; but when I turned the
boat up on its side as a partial cover, and presented the
pistol in one hand, while I flourished the bright dagger in the
other, he cooled down wonderfully, particularly as I talked
rather pompously about the warlike abilities of the white man.
I was very glad, when we came to a parley, however, that
prevented my courage being put to the test. One shot,
indeed, would in all probability have dispersed the crowd,
but I should in that case have been obliged to evacuate the
island — a»step which I did not wish to take.

It was ultimately agreed that I might retain possession of
my prize if I did not carry it off to any other island, in which
they feared it might be seized and kept as a trophy. That,
they said, was their only objection to my having it. On
these terms it was taken up to my house, and placed under
the shade of a spreading pandanas-tree.

256 PERFIDY OF THE NATIVES.

Confident in the good faith of the people, I commenced to
make a mast and sprit from part of the wreck, together with
new rowlocks ; and as she was so crank, I removed the seats
nearer the bottom of the boat. I also made a pair of new
paddles from staves of puncheons. All this took some time
to accomplish, as I had only a hoop-iron tokfe (or native adze)
and my dagger to do my carpenter work with. I had much
difficulty, too, in finding nails, the natives having consumed
the greater part of them for fish-hooks. I presume the
people considered that these preparations boded some dan-
gerous movement; for, when I had all completed, one
morping the boat was missing. Furious at their perfidy, I
called on Frankfe to join me, and we resolved at once to leave
the place. Accordingly, with our little bundles on our
shoulders, we prepared to march. The natives were greatly
alarmed at our leaving them in anger, to join, no doubt, the
ranks of their enemies. The whole population was soon
collected. At first some of the younger warriors seemed in-
clined to dispute the road with us by force ; but as I ad-
vanced with the pistol and dagger, and Franke followed close
in my rear with a long knife, they fell back to a respectful
distance. The older men, with more tact, seeing that their
menaces only made me more resolute, threw themselves in
my way unarmed, whilst Monitu and O Pai Tangata fell at my
feet, begging me to remain, and saying they would give me the
boat to use it as I pleased. Franks, however, urged me to go
on. The fact was, he was rather displeased with the fair ones
of this place, who had shown little disposition to appreciate
his merits. On my stipulating, however, that he should
have a wife, he returned with me perfectly satisfied. A feast
was prepared for us — not the " fatted calf/' but pofc fish, and
orora. Whilst we were discussing these savoury viands,
the loud shouts with which the natives accompany any
amount of exertion, told us they were bringing back the

HAKA MO^ KAKARA. 257

boat, which, borne on their shoulders, soon made its appear-
ance, and was laid at my feet. Thus, by persevering in my
just demands, I not only gained my immediate object, but
acquired that unlimited control which I ultimately exercised
in several of the islands.

The following morning, on my return from bathing with
Frankfe, I found all my family and their friends grouped
about our little hamlet, and a strange young girl, apparently
in rather a distressed condition, seated immediately in front
of my house. I had approached close to this spot before she
observed me ; but immediately on doing so she bounded off
to the shelter of a neighbouring palm-tree, where, crouching
down and peeping round it, she gazed at me, the very type of
savage wonder and fear. Her large dark eyes were animated
with a brilliant expression, her nose was small and straight,
and her bright lips were parted, showing her exquisite teetli ;
whilst the long black but dishevelled tresses, which she
had flung from her forehead, fell over and partially en-
veloped her graceful form. Such was " Haka Mofe Kakara"
( u The Sweet Sleeper"), my destined wife, as they now in-
formed me. There was one thing that puzzled me about
her; she had evidently been married before, for she wore
the tichfe, and was certainly a very youthful widow, not
more than sixteen. I was informed that she had only just
been married, and, disliking her husband, had never lived
with him. I suggested the possibility of the same result in
my case, which they politely declared impossible. I, how-
ever, did not aspire to the conjugal state; and the wild
.appearance of my destined bride, notwithstanding her beauty,
frightened me from such a responsibility. Frankfe, who
feared that if I refused there would be no chance for him,
urged me to accept the flattering offer; and my relatives
stating that she had been brought from another island ex-
pressly on my account, I was constrained to take her to my

s

258 REVOLTING HABIT.

borne. Nothing, however, could induce her to come within
reach of me for some time. It was only by treating her as
one does a shy colt — that is, offering her, with a great deal
of patting and persuasion, something to eat — that I managed
gradually to gain a little confidence, and encouraged her to
approach me. I suppose she had been told horrid stories
about me. Our union, however, did not turn out a happy
one. I never could tame or civilize her, and she always re-
garded me with a certain amount of fear. Yet I am sure I put
up with the native habits of my savage spouse with exemplary
forbearance, some of which scarcely bear allusion to. What
would an English gentleman say if he saw his wife eagerly
engaged in the pursuit of a novel species of game in a friend's
head, and cracking each successive trophy of the chase
between her pearly teeth ?

A week having elapsed without the appearance of any wife
for Franks, he, thoroughly disgusted with his bachelor state,
resolved to change his locality. I would willingly have
handed over my better half to him, but this would have been
resented as against all the laws of order and decency. I told
my friends that I intended paying a visit to my relatives in
Matunga, who would naturally be anxious to become ac-
quainted with the new member of their family ; and as there
could be no objection to so reasonable a proposition, after the
requisite quantity of food had been prepared for the journey,
1 started for Matunga in my boat, with " The Sweet Sleeper"
and Frankfe.

With a fair wind and Frankfe's blanket for a sail, we
skimmed along over the still waters of the lagoon, to the
great delight but no small fear of my wild bride, who had on
her best tichfe and parieu. Never having been in a canoe
without an outrigger before, she could scarcely be persuaded
that it would not capsize ; but as we neared the little bay of
Matunga, and found its shores crowded with natives to receive

A STRONG MEASURE. 259

us, she seemed very proud of her position, and assumed a
degree of dignity becoming her new state. We were received
with great attention ; and, for the first time, I observed the
importance here attached to the married state. Poor Franks
was forgotten in the general enthusiasm. This I felt sorry
for, as it formed the commencement of a jealousy that sub*
sequently increased to a bitter extent.

I remained here for about a month very pleasantly. My
only difficulties were conjugal ones, arising from certain pre-
judices of my wild, untutored bride. No persuasion, for in-
stance, could induce her to insert a comb in her long, wild
locks, which would have been the better for one in many
respects. If I looked angry and commanded her (for I never
attempted chastisement, as the sailors too often did), she fled
in terror into the woods, to come back crouching in fear.
I should certainly have sent her home, but such a proceeding
is sometimes resented by the friends in the most summary
manner, unless the separation is consented to by the wife.
I cannot say there was ever much affection evinced for
me by the dark-eyed Haka Moe Kakara, though she ex-
hibited a considerable amount of jealousy — a strong trait
in the Kanaka character, produced more from wounded
vanity than love, their conquests being a constant theme of
conversation.

One day, on returning to my hut, I saw a group assembled
round it, and my lady officiating on the head of a huge native
reclining in her lap. I thought this would be a good oppor-
tunity of showing her my disgust at such a proceeding. I
was neither- astonished nor angry at what I saw, but pre-
tended to be frightfully so, and rushing on the man before
he could raise his head, I kicked him with such force that I
fairly knocked him over. A scream of horror was uttered
by the group, for though such strong measures were occasion-
ally necessary, I rarely resorted to them. The native, furious

s 2

260 ENTERTAINED BY TEPO.

with rage, on recovering his feet, showed a momentary in*
tention of retaliating, but fled on a second attack. The
screams of the women soon brought, as 1 anticipated, a
crowd to the spot, which gave me an opportunity of ex-
plaining how disgusting the practice was to white people. I
even said that if my wife did not give it up I could not live
with her. This scene had the effect of checking the practice,
at least in my presence, through the island generally. As
for Haka Mofe Kakara, she fled ; and, as she did not return for
the remainder of the day, I told the natives that she had left
me, and I should now return to Mangerongaro. Must I
confess it ? Scarcely had my honeymoon passed when I felt
it a happy release to be delivered from my bride, and hasten-
ing to my boat, I pushed it into the water, and, without
leave-taking, was soon beyond fear of pursuit. In half an
hour I had landed on the opposite island of Omuka.

I was met on the beach by Tepo, who conducted me to her
house, and, whilst preparing some food, ordered, in her im-
perative manner, a " tamari " (boy) to run and find her father,
whilst she sent another to climb for cocoa-nuts* The latter
seemed to hesitate for a moment, whereat, lifting a handful
of gravel, she flung it in his face, and, dreading a second ap-
plication of the same kind, he was fain to start off, at which
she clapped her hands and laughed heartily. Then, having
no one to rub fire, she darted off to borrow some, as she knew
I preferred the neu oara cooked. She was soon back, and at
the same time her father arrived. They asked me what had
brought me over, and when I told them that I was return-
ing to Mangerongaro they were greatly vexed, asking me
anxiously if Turua and Ocura had not treated me well,
and why they had let me come away unprovided with food.
I told them of my having to get rid of an undutiful wife, and
that Ocura and Turua, who were always very kind to me, did
not know of my departure. I expressed my determination

THE "SWEET SLEEPER" IN MATTING. 261

to leave them, as I did not like to stay in Matunga any
longer. At this they both began to cry, and Tepo, taking
her fathers hand, led him outside, where they had a private
conversation. -On coming back she told me to await her
return, saying that her sister would attend to my food while
she went with her father to catch some fish.

Some two or three hours after Tepo's departure, I was
astonished to find Turua and Ocura at the house with a pre-
sent of fish, cocoa-nuts, &c v the little girl having quietly
gone off for them to prevent my departure. They were
soon joined by Taharua and Mau Kakara, together with a
number of other Matungans, urging my return. Their fre-
quent glances towards an object at a short distance drew my
attention in the same direction, and, notwithstanding the
bundle of matting in which she was enveloped as a kind
of mourning, I at once discovered, from the black eyes that
glanced beneath it, and the long, jetty locks that strayed
out of it, that the " Sweet Sleeper" was hidden under its
shade. Although I was annoyed at her following me, I could
not help laughing at the ridiculous figure she cut. This was
taken as a good omen by those present, and they promised
to do whatever I desired, provided I would remain. She her-
self was not by any means so complaisant ; but as I knew it
would be very disagreeable to return to Mangerongaro after
casting her away so soon, and to remain here separated would
be equally so, I was constrained to give her another trial. I
found her improved, but more afraid of me than ever.

A few days after this a messenger came to me from Ma-
tunga, urging my immediate presence. One of the Kana-
kas of our crew was said to be making a strange bird fly
over the tops of their highest cocoa-nut trees — a proceeding
which they were afraid might blast them. I at first
laughed at the idea, supposing their island had been visited
. by some bird strange to them ; but when a second messenger

26$ WABLIKE DEMONSTRATIONS.

arrived, stating that they held the bird with a string, I felt
my own curiosity excited sufficiently to make me proceed
with them. On my arrival I found that the object of their
terror was a paper kite with a tail of leaves, the flying of
which, I explained, was a common diversion in our country.
As they would not be appeased, however, I ordered the amuse-
ment to be discontinued. We were working off their pre-
judices by degrees, and it was policy occasionally to yield to
them in trifling matters.

Franke considered this an arbitrary measure, and, being
unsuccessful in a love-suit here as in Mangerongaro with
Tokarora, he said he would leave Matunga altogether. He
had for some time past been less friendly with me, and,
for the first time, I suspected that jealousy of my influence
with the natives was the cause of it. He thereupon pro-
ceeded directly to Tepuka, an island hostile to Matunga,
where he had always been treated with kindness. He
laboured to induce the Tepukans to make a descent on Ma-
tunga, hoping, as he could not subvert my power by diplo-
macy, to do it in war — a design in which he was earnestly
seconded by the ruffian Joe. His efforts, however, were un-
availing, though the warlike demonstrations to which the
Tepukans were stimulated by their new allies kept us in con-
stant excitement. I had no wish that our party should
join in the quarrels of the natives, but I stated distinctly
that if they were attacked I would give all the assistance in
my power to either Matunga or Sararak, where I was looked
up to as a chief.

Tepuka, notwithstanding its warlike preparations, had
made only a few predatory excursions amongst the neigh-
bouring islands. As a descent was about being made by
Omuka on Mutagohiche, the inhabitants of which were very
inhospitable to white men, most of the Matunga warriors had
gone across to the former island, leaving only the women, a

a "friendly visit." 263

few old men, and children with me to protect our homes.
One morning I was suddenly roused from my mat by the
alarm-cry of " Taka oatch& !" and by the screams of several
people round my house. I learned on inquiry that the
cause of their terror was a report that the Tepukans, after
plundering Ruahara, were making sail with hostile inten-
tion for Matunga.

A beacon-fire was lighted on the southern point of land to
alarm our friends of Omuka on the other side of the channel.
Three large war-canoes of the enemy, however, were already
seen approaching our shores with such rapidity that much
mischief might be done before we could procure succour. I
therefore collected all the old men, women, and children,
and placed them, with arms in their hands, amongst the tall
hara weeds near the beach, where, partially hidden themselves,
their spears and clubs were ostentatiously displayed. When
the canoes came within hailing distance their occupants paused
and performed a complimentary salutation. In reply to my
questions as to the cause of their appearance at this time,
they said that, being in the neighbourhood, they had merely
come on a " haka ki kitchfe" (or friendly visit) to me, and
begged me to go with them. I said that though they were
my particular friends I could not at present ; for having heard
that Tepuka intended to attack Matunga, of which I was
u iriki," and where I had much " food-land," I was bound
to protect it, and would certainly fire on the first man that
attempted to land — " tanga te hatch'a chfere," (" make the
thunder speak"), as they expressed it. They assured me they
had no hostile intention, but should be greatly delighted if
I would come on board their canoes to receive the " shungfe,"
or salutation. I was about to do so, when an old woman
rushed out from the bush and begged me not, as they
only meant to get hold of me, and then attack the place. I
reassured her, however; and, handing her the pistol, drew

264 VIOLENT EPIDEMIC.

my dagger as a preferable defence in case of treachery, and
made a great display of it, its bright flash filling them with
terror. Then, wading out, I boarded each canoe in succes-
sion, walking on their broad gunwales, and receiving the most
abject salutations as I passed, never for a moment forgetting
the necessity of guarding against surprise. This ceremony
concluded, they retraced their way towards Ruahara, to
our infinite satisfaction and relief. About half an hour
afterwards, when several Matunga and Omuka canoes had
arrived, the men seemed furious M&ith disappointment at the
escape of their enemies, all declaring the valorous deeds they
would have performed had they only met. They might still
have pursued them, but they were content with this display
of valour in words of menace uttered at a safe distance.

I was informed by the new-comers that Turua had been
dangerously wounded in the last engagement, and was lying
at the point of death. Seriously anxious about this young
man, for whom I felt a strong affection, I at once hastened
in my boat to Omuka, where, to my satisfaction, I found he
had only received a slight spear wound in the leg, and had
sent the message to try its effect on me. He was delighted
at my prompt visit as a proof of attachment, of which both
he and his wife boasted to their friends.

At this time a termination was put to all warlike opera-
tions by the breaking out of a violent epidemic, resembling
an intermittent fever. This malady commenced in Man-
gerongaro, and spread over the entire group, causing many
deaths. The white men as well as the natives suffered from its
ravages ; but as the former took greater care of themselves,
it in no case proved fatal to them. In one respect, however,
as I had foreseen in case of such a calamity, it involved us
all in jeopardy. The disease commencing in Mangerongaro,
where we at the time were sojourning, the superstitious
savages at once declared that we had brought it with us

ABSURD CHARGES. 265

in the ship ; and several who had been all along hostile to
us asserted that we had intentionally introduced it in order
to kill them and take possession of their lands — an idea of
which their minds could be disabused only by considerable
management.

The cocoa-nut food produced virulent sores on some of our
men. Old Bill was in such a state that his life was despaired
of. I visited him in Omuka, where the epidemic was very
severe. By inducing him to follow a few simple prescriptions,
I succeeded in alleviating the disease, if I had not the good
fortune to cure it. Chera Puna, meanwhile, trotted about
with me like a little dog, amusing me with her innocent
prattle. When I was leaving for Matunga, I took her on a
visit there, and her mother presented her to me as my
affianced wife, to be formally married when she was of proper
age. On our arrival, she, with becoming propriety, took up
her abode at the house of a friend. I was, however, speedily
recalled to Omuka, on account of a quarrel which had sprung
up between the natives and the whites, it being said the latter
were all to be massacred. I proceeded at once to the scene of
action, where the natives were very much excited against us.
Their councils were not conducted with that form common
in the other islands of the group. In fact, they were merely
gatherings of the people in the open air, where they sat
in an irregular circle under the shade of the palm-
trees. In these councils absurd charges were brought
against us and the "huie atua oaka," or spirit-ship. A
venerable old chief on one occasion got up, and addressing
himself to me and other whites who happened to be present,
asked us, " Did they not give us food and shelter? Did they
not give us wives, the choicest of their islands? Did they
(the men) not fish for us, their children climb the loftiest
trees for our food — and what did they get in return ? We
never worked for them, nor even for ourselves. We abused

266 a chief's speech, and my reply.

them, their children, and their women ; we brought sickness
amongst them. Before, we had made them suffer much from
the poerka sickness, from which few died, and these only
children ; but now we had brought a disease that was cariy-
ing off their warriors, their best men. Why had we come
to their land ? They had never any sickness like this before
we came, and, if we remained, we should be bringing other
complaints to carry them off. Better for us to leave. They
would furnish us with canoes, and we must return to our
own land/'

We were of course obliged to decline this generous offer,
it being impossible for us to go to sea in their canoes without
compass, chart, or nautical instrument. In replying to the
principal charge brought against us, I said —

" Some fools amongst you say we brought this disease in
the ship to kill you all. You acknowledge I am iriki of the
white men ; then / must have brought it. Had I done so,
would I not let you die, instead of going among you night
and day to cure you ? Do they not send for me round all
the Pitaka to cure them ? Have I not made many of your
own people well again ?"

" Atchica, atchica !" (" Truth, truth !") exclaimed several,
a testimony of approval by which I was encouraged to pro-
ceed : —

"You say you do not want us to remain with you.
I am glad of that, for there are some of the islands that
would not let us leave them if we had the opportunity. We
want to go — (sensation) — but not in your canoes, which are
worthless things ; we want to go in the white man's canoe,
which will sail over the great waves of the ocean without
sinking or leaking. Give us back our axes, our knives, &c.,
and we shall make one. You say we give you nothing for
our food; that is a great lie. We have given you more
already than all your island is worth. Have you not got

A SHREWD REMARK. 267

axes, knives, fish-hooks, beads, clothes, &c. (tokfes, tib&s,
mataus, matu matas, kau shos, &c.), that you could never
make, and never saw before ? One of them is worth all I
ever received from you, and in other islands I could buy more
cocoa-nuts than are on the whole Pitaka with what you have
got from me. Here are so-and-so/* (naming several present
with whom I saw various trifles from the wreck, many of
them worthless in reality, but of inestimable value to them) ;
" give us these things of ours, and we shall go at once to some
land where we can buy as many cocoa-nuts as we want."

This direct appeal was conclusive. The rubbish held by
those addressed as treasures, disappeared instanter, as if they
feared an immediate seizure. " Cary, cary, co ai ahana 1"
(" No, no, you must not go !") " Taie te, kaiing sumar&ng,
anohe coe V (" This is the best country — remain with us I")
&c. &c., were exclamations which we heard repeated by all.

" Ah V 9 said I, in rather an amiable mood, " I know I
have some friends here, but there are many in Omuka who
did not like the white men, so we shall all go to Tepuka or
Mangerongaro" (islands of their greatest enemies).

A shrewd-looking fellow, in passing me, remarked, " White
man's talk is too good — Kanakas are*all fools !"

268

CHAPTER X.

My Return to Matunga — Abject Superstition — Religious Cere-
monies — Visit to Omuka — A Novel Remedy for the Prevalent
Epidemic — Requested to visit Mahauta Nue — Illness of Opaks
— Landing of that once dreaded Chief in Omuka — Great Ex-
citement — Ravages of the Epidemic in Mangerongaro — A
"Fono," or Council — Induced to wear a Peculiar Badge — Con-
ciliatory Address — Death of Opaka — Performance of Sacred
Rites at the Mara — Attempt to recover my Sword — Appoint-
ment of an Iriki — Departure for Haka Shusha — Reception by
the Tepukans — Diving for the Pashu — Visit to Oeura — Ex-
pression of Violent Grief — Island of Taimata — Inhospitable
Reception — Lovely Scene — Haka Puta — Another Mahauta A"u2
—A Blighted Tract — The Tautuans— Curious Fish — Visit
to Haka Puta's Mother — Descent of the Natives of Sararak —
Stripping the Cocoa-nut Trees — Regarded with Suspicion by
the Tautuans — An Intruder — Invasion of the Matungans—
Conference — The Matungans persuaded to retire — Extensive
Shoal — Compelled to take a third Wife.

T RETURNED to Matunga, my « Island of Tranquil
**■ Delights/' in time to behold a ceremony that I had not
before witnessed. The islanders were all assembling at the
great mara to behold the invocation of " Atua/' their
. supreme god, whose power they desired to see exemplified in
the cure of an old man of high standing among them.

After much jumping and running about, and many
prayers or incantations, which I believe none of the
uninitiated understood, the old chief prostrated himself
before the Huie Atua house. The priests, trembling with

DEATH OF MAHAUTA NuA. 269

fear, brought forth from it the god of feathers, " shreds and
patches/' with which, after many more mumbled prayers,
they struck the chief three blows. The latter then rose,
and the crowd dispersed. Fortunately for the reputation
of the Atua the patient recovered, a result which was attri-
buted to the power of their favourite idol.

Matunga had not, up to this time, suffered much from the
epidemic, but both Mangerongaro and Oinuka were severely
scourged by it. I crossed over to the latter, where I was
supposed to effect some cures. Thence I proceeded to Muta-
gohiche, where the disease had not been very prevalent, and
where the terror of the natives at the epidemic was only
equalled by their delight at the mortality among the Omu-
kaii8, their most deadly foes. Here I was particularly fortu-
nate in the recovery of one of their chiefs, and of a woman
who was taken ill the night of my arrival.

A few days after my return to Omuka a deputation of
several women, including two of Mahauta's wives, came from
Tepuka with a request that I would visit Mahauta Nue, who
was sick to death, and desired to see me in all haste. As
Franke, however, had prejudiced me against these people by
stating that they had resolved to drive all white men from
their island, I refused to return with them, to their great
distress. Shortly afterwards I heard, with much regret, of
Mahauta's death. He was, perhaps, the most powerful chief
of the group. His friendship had been of use to me on all
the weather islands, where his name was dreaded ; and on
one occasion he had saved my life. I heard that he had in-
tended to endow me largely with property from his great pos-
sessions, but my ingratitude induced him to cut me off with
something less than a shilling. Strange that his great rival
and most dangerous enemy should be so near his end at the
same moment I Opaka, who bad often laughed at my
mimicry of some of their absurd rites, had begun to see the

270 ILLNESS OF OPAKA.

folly of them ; but, as sickness weakened body and mind, lie
returned to the superstitions on which his early faith had
been built. When he was in a precarious state the physicians
and sages advised him to visit a certain eminent priest who
lived in a secluded spot in the centre of Omuka, in the very
heart of his enemy's country. He therefore sent a deputa-
tion to the Omukan chief, asking for permission to visit his
celebrated wise man. His request was granted, and he was
already as far as Mutagohiche when rumours of treachery
prevented his farther progress ; and it was not till one of bis
wives and other female relatives came to me, begging my
assistance, that I knew of his illness.

After our recent quarrel with the Omukans I did not
presume on much influence with them, but hastened with
Opaka's messengers to see him at Mutagohiche, where I
found him surrounded by the whole of his people in the
greatest trepidation and distress, for his name had been
equal to a host against their foes. I could scarcely have
recognised, in the emaciated, palsied form before me, the
powerful and energetic warrior I had seen a month pre-
viously. A ray of pleasure lighted up his pain-stricken face
as he weakly pronounced my name on seeing me. His anxious
inquiries as to the possibility of entering Omuka showed me
how much his heart was set on it ; and I resolved he should
go at all hazards. When I assured him that I would see
him safe into the house of the spirit-man, he seemed greatly
pleased. I felt rather surprised that they did not ask me
to try my healing powers on so great a person, which, as I
was sure he was dying, would have brought no credit to me. *
I suppose, however, they wished to propitiate the great
spirit-man they were about to visit.

I sent word that evening to the Omukans that, on the
morrow, I intended to land with Opaka on their shores;
at the same time telling my messenger, Juan, to pro-

HIS VISIT TO OMUKA. 271

ceed to Matunga with the same information, well assured that
if there was any danger in the expedition, I should soon have
some friends to stand by me. The following morning we
started in three of the best canoes, with crews of picked war-
riors, too few to arouse mistrust in their enemies, but powerful
enough to make some resistance in case of attack. It was
years since a Mangerongaro warrior had been in Omuka,
and on the last occasion they had met in battle ; Opaka haying
then routed the Omukans with great loss, killing several with
his own hand in single combat. It was, therefore, with un-
disguised fear that they now approached the landing-place,
which we found crowded with armed enemies. As we entered
the bight in the reef, and Opaka beheld on either side the
hostile faces peering into the canoe to get a sight of the
once dreaded chief, he was overcome with terror, and com-
manded a halt I myself, and the chiefs who accompanied
him, participated in some degree in his terror, for we saw
that the crowds on the beach were very excited, and, to all
appearance, preparing themselves for a fray. Standing in
the bow of the boat, I thought it prudent to address the
people, telling them I had brought my father amongst them
on a friendly visit, at the invitation of " Tone Oharrfe," their
king ; that Opaka was about to consult their great spirit-
man, whose powers of healing were so famous, and that
they must allow him to pass up into the holy place. If
any one attempted to injure him, I said, he must first
attack me, his son, who came to protect him. I was
answered by reiterated assurances of their peaceful inten-
sions, of which I felt the more confident as I saw some friends
of mine busy clearing a way at the spot where we intended to
land. When the great Opaka, however, was raised from
the canoe, feeble and trembling, a shout of derision and
hate spread through the crowd ; at which I sprang forward,
pistol in hand. An old woman at the same moment

272 EXCITING SCENE.

dashed forward, and, fronting Opaka, demanded, in scream-
ing accents, the restoration of her beautiful son. A man
beside her, in as wild a manner, raising his spear, asked
for his brother, who had been left dead on the sands of Man-
gerongaro, and a cry of vengeance was thus raised against
the chief who had deprived them of their dearest relatives.

The pressure was becoming too strong for me, single-
handed, to resist, and it was with the utmost difficulty
I could keep a space clear before Opaka, by which we
progressed slowly towards our destination. If we once
arrived there, I knew we were secured by the taboo ; but I
had given up all hope of getting so far, when a shout at a
little distance diverted the attention of our assailants. In a
minute little Juan was flourishing his hoop-iron sword by
my side'; and Turua and several Matungans did their best
to quell the excitement. I of course availed myself of the
diversion to facilitate our advance ; and as we pushed for-
ward under the shade of the cocoa-nut groves, supporting
the old man, I saw him, notwithstanding his danger and
debility, casting looks of envy and covetousness up to the
well-filled boughs above. We had almost arrived at our
destination when a powerful savage, the same who had first
demanded his lost brother, bounding in front of Opaka
with a yell, raised his spear, which, in another moment, he
would have buried in the old man's body, if I had not
noticed the movement, and thrown myself suddenly on him
with such force that we both came to the ground together.
The next instant Opaka was in the Huie Atua house, where
he was safe from further danger.

This place was much resorted to by natives of all the
group ; but as the old priest's fees were considerable, it vas
only by those whose means were most abundant. Although
the incantations employed by this Polynesian JSsculapius
were similar to those used by brethren who had not the

THE MASANGA. 273

dame reputation, his cures were said to be much more certain.
Perhaps the situation of his house, more than usually ele-
vated, and the restored confidence of the patient, had some
effect. Shortly after this there came here a child of O Pai
Tangata's, so ill that I should have given him up, but in
about a month he was in as good health as ever.

In Mangerongaro the epidemic had made more ravages
than elsewhere; and as each death was the occasion of feast-
ing, their cocoa-nuts became so scarce that they were com-
pelled to "masanga te kaiing" — that is, put a restriction on
the indiscriminate use of them. To " masanga," taboo, or
put a ban on certain trees, or even districts, is a matter of
every-day occurrence with the economic landowner, that the
supply of nuts may not fail ; but to have the ban put on
every tree throughout the island, and to be reduced to a
very moderate allowance of food, was soon the cause of great
^ suffering, as was seen in the cadaverous countenances of the
natives.

As the general masanga must have the approbation of
all the adults of the island, the white men were urged
to return to Mangerongaro, to participate in it. We,
therefore, found ourselves once again in the island on which
we were originally cast, and had many adventures to recount
to each other.

After our arrival a great "fono," or council, was held
near the house of O Pai Tangata, at which the whole male
population was assembled, as well as many women, and
crowds of children, in the distance, under the shade of
the surrounding palm-trees. Our own party was also
there, Nvith the exception of the two Society Island natives,
to bring whom several messengers were sent. As they did
not arrive, however, I went myself, and, to my surprise,
found them in a state of great fear. Bobo pleaded hard to
remain, saying, "No good, masanga; Kanaka here no

T

274 THE BADGE.

good, you Bee ; by-and-by Kanaka eat white man." And
it was with the greatest reluctance they consented to accom-
pany me.

After a great deal of talking on the part of the natives,
with the usual excitement, the restrictions of the masanga
were finally agreed to among themselves, and all the men
placed around their necks a piece of platted sinnet as a badge
of their acceptance of it. The white men were generally
opposed to its adoption, however, to the evident distress of
the natives, who begged us, as their children, to wear it, as
they wished the other islands to understand that we were
peculiarly the people of Sararak, where we had been first
adopted by the sacred rites of the mara, and to which we
could always come as a home.

Anxious at all times, as far as our supremacy permitted,
to conciliate the natives of Sararak, I, with much difficulty,
got our people to accept of the badge. I was not aware at
that time (but afterwards learned) that it implied a consent
to joining in their marauding expeditions, which, of course,
I repudiated.

I now rose and told them that, as we were the people of
Sararak, like themselves, and had good fathers and food-
land, we would accept their masanga. All our people having
been adopted here, we looked on Sararak as our nation. In
our own country beyond the sea there was such plenty that
we had been always accustomed to enough of food, and could
not, like them, put up with half quantity. We would,
therefore, betake ourselves to the various islands of the
Pitaka, where there was yet a sufficiency, leaving them more
for themselves, and when their trees again bore fruit would
return to eat with them in happiness.

The applause my announcement of accepting the masanga
created was dashed by the latter part of my speech, for they
had anticipated that, if we did not join in their forays, we

DEATH OF OPAKA. 275

would at least remain to protect their homes in their absence,
or assist them against the reprisals that their attacks would
probably provoke.

I had for some time past been meditating an excursion
round the group, notwithstanding the repulse of some of
the whites from the inhospitable shores of the "Tautua"
islands ; and I was the more anxious to go as I had been
informed of a ship passage into the lagoon on the north-east
side, more commodious than either of those with which we
were acquainted. I determined to start with Juan on my long-
meditated excursion in my little boat. The morning was
settled for our departure, and I was making some new
thole-pins for the boat, when I was disturbed by exclama-
tions of despair. Hearing the name of Opaka frequently
mentioned, I dropped my work and hastened to the beach,
where I beheld three canoes, from which the sounds of woe
proceeded. I at once concluded that the great Sararak chief
was no more, which was indeed the case. The whole popu-
lation of the island was soon assembled on the shore, and
his body was carried in a solemn manner by four chiefs to
the mara. Opaka's two favourite wives were allowed on this
occasion to approach his remains in the mara, but only by
crawling on their hands and knees, with their faces towards
the east, retiring backwards in the same abject position. The
body remained here for a few days, in a temporary house,
before it was removed to his own residence at Haka Shusha,
where it was hung up in mats suspended from the roof in the
usual way. One or two of the departed chief's wives remained
in the house with it at all times, whilst several families
throughout the island shut themselves up in mourning.

I had now two reasons for delaying my tour of discovery :
the first, my anxiety to learn how Opaka' s death would influ-
ence my position (O Pai Tangata being so near a relative),
and the second, my resolve to attempt the recovery of my

T 2

276 ENDEAVOUR TO RECOVER MT SWORD.

sw&rd, which, during his life, the old chief had secreted with
such jealous care.

The election of a supreme Iriki, or king, the satire popu-
lation did not seem in any hurry about, and as soon as the
first period of grief was oyer in the household of Opaka, I
went on a visit of condolence to his wife, Tupa. A burst of
sorrow was my greeting, but she soon evinced the usual
female curiosity. I asked her where my father had left mr
sword, for I was sure he would like me now to hare it as it
belonged to me. She was silent in a moment, and tried to
evade answering. However, I pressed the question, and she at
last whispered that it had been taken, before Opaka's death,
to the house of O Parry, who now had it secreted. As
this sword would be a most valuable acquisition on my pro-
posed journey, I resolved to leave no stone unturned for its
recovery. I therefore hastened off to O Parry's, whom I found
suffering under the epidemic, which still continued, but in a
more mitigated form than at first. He, of course, denied all
knowledge of the coveted article, and when I told him that
I knew it was in his possession, he was very angry, and
asked, "Who told me?" at the same time again denying
the fact.

I whispered in a hollow voice that it was the white man's
Attia told me, the sword being a Huie Atua one. I also said
that the spirit wanted me to have it before, but as Opaka
would not give it up the presiding genius of the whites
would not allow their Huie Atua man to cure him. I knew
he had it, I said, and if he would not restore it he would
die also.

He turned to his wife and told her what I had said. Her
little round face suddenly elongated and turned pale, while she
hastily moved to the side of her husband, as if she expected
some one to rise in judgment against her. At once surmis-
ing where my treasure was secreted, I moved into the hut,

APPOINTMENT OP AN IRIKI. 277

and raising the boards at the place she had just left, dis-
covered my long-coveted sword half-buried in the sand.
O Parry's little wife, who was very fond of her husband,
asked me, with tears in her eyes, if he would die now, or be
exposed still to the Atua's anger. I assured her she need
not have the least apprehension, for Parry would surely
recover.

A few days afterwards a near relation of the late Opaka
made his appearance from Ruahara, and created a con-
siderable sensation. The day after his arrival I was summoned
by O Pai Tangata to Haka Shusha. As I proceeded to that
solitary part of the island, I found all the people hastening
in the same direction, but keeping a mysterious silence as to
the cause of their meeting. I soon discovered, however, that
it was to appoint an Iriki in place of Opaka. He having
died without male issue, my father and the Ruahara chief
were the principal competitors for the position of the de-
parted Iriki. After much discussion, it was finally ar-
ranged that our new friend should rule over the territory
of Haka Shusha (depopulated when conquered by Opaka,
but now again raised into a separate kingdom), and that
my father should be monarch of Sararak.

Cocoa-nuts, in all their stages — from the young vai to the
cooked uto— were placed in neat baskets, ornamented in a
way I had never seen before, and, after passing through
various hands, during which prayer was muttered over them,
they, together with orora and fish, were laid at the feet of
both the chiefs, who did ample justice to the repast.

Nothing further occurred to delay our departure. Juan
and his young wife having all in readiness, we pushed our
little boat from under its shade of palm-trees and passed
over the white sand into the lagoon just as the sun appeared
above its opposite side.
I entered the boat, where the bride and groom had already

278 AN EXCELLENT BREAKFAST.

taken their seats, and we at once struck out vigorously
for Haka Shusha, determined to test the new monarch's
hospitality. We were soon at the landing-place, and, after
beaching our bark, a few minutes' walk brought us to the
settlement, which we found deserted, except by an old woman
and a half-witted boy, the people being all on a fishing expe-
dition. Returning to the boat, I made for the little island
where Opaka had overtaken me on my former flight to
Tepuka. The Haka Shushans were fishing in the very pas-
sage that I had found such difficulty in crossing. They were
still spearing, an exercise at which they are very expert.
However, we went to a hut, where a young girl was cooking
some ohos, and were presented with a large one just from the
sand-oven in its swathing of leaves. Hot, rich, and juicy, it
made, with cocoa-nuts that we had with us, an excellent break-
fast for the three. "Without further delay, we then proceeded
along the southern reef to the eastward, and in the evening
were hailed with shouts of greeting from the small though
thickly peopled island of Etuchaha, the inhabitants of which,
though separated by several miles of submerged reef from
the Tepukans, are closely allied to them, and known by the
same name.

Notwithstanding my long absence and renouncement of
all connexion with the Tepukans, they received me* in the
most friendly way; and Maurfe, their king, was as hos-
pitable as formerly. Not only had this island suffered very
little from the epidemic, but there was abundance of food on
it, which induced us to make a sojourn of several days. At
the same time I had an opportunity of learning how I might
be received in Tepuka proper. If I had any doubts with
regard to this, they were soon set at rest ; for, in a day or
two, Mahauta Nue's two children arrived to urge me to pro-
ceed with them at once. They had both grown perceptibly,
particularly the little girl ; yet she was still the same delicate-

DEPARTURE FOR TEPUKA. 279

looking, timid creature, the very opposite to her manly,
rather rough, brother. She was very expert at catching
small fish by diving, an exercise in which she excelled all
the other children of her own age. . The women are gene-
rally as good divers as the men, particularly those of Tepuka,
in whose waters principally is found the pashu, a large white
corrugated clam, which, when cooked in a cocoa-nut shell,
is excellent. Those of a large size are only to be had by
diving several fathoms. The women often swim out with a
paddle two or three miles into the lagoon to a favourite
toka or rock, at the base of which the pashu is found im-
bedded amongst the coral, from which it is dissevered by a
piece of strong wood, stone, or iron. Two or three may be thus
secured before coming to the surface. "When the diver
reaches the floating paddle, to which a basket has been
attached, the shells are opened, and the fish are placed in the
basket, as the former would be too weighty to swim with to
the shore.

In a few days we left for Tepuka in convoy of several canoes
from Etuchaha. The whole party started ahead of us— each
striving which should convey the first tidings of our approach.
We proceeded meanwhile more leisurely, sometimes rowing,
but more commonly poling our little boat over the shoal
parts of the reef. We made a halt at the small, solitary
island before alluded to, where, under the pleasant shade of
its palms, we luxuriated in the refreshing beverage derived
from some young vais, which Juan had plucked from a small
tree he had ascended. We did not leave till past mid-day,
and it was nearly sundown when we pushed into the deep
shadow of the little cove, on the sands of which the Tepukan
fleet was drawn up.

Though we were received by some with the usual noisy
demonstrations, I observed that many of the faces had not as
friendly an aspect as I could have wished, and I wis not

280 VISIT TO OCURA.

long on the island ere I discovered that there was a strong
party, whose feelings were anything but favourable towards
me. Those opposed to me were chiefly the younger and less
influential men in the northern portion of the island, where
Franks resided. We were, however, hospitably entertained.

The second night after my arrival I went to pay a visit to
Ocura, the favourite wife of the late great Mahauta, who,
being still in mourning, could not leave home in the day-
time. However, as I approached her house, she came out
to meet me, and sat with me at a neighbouring hat.
When I spoke of Mahauta's goodness and friendship for
me, she burst into a paroxysm of grief; and, with pierc-
ing shrieks, ran towards her own house, from which we
afterwards heard moaning and wailing, and occasional
bursts of grief; at last some wilder screams mingled with
several severe blows; then, suddenly, all was still. Even
the loquacious natives, who had gathered around me, were
silent for once. On entering the house we found the
graceful form of the wretched Ocura stretched senseless
beside a cocoa-nut log, the blood disfiguring her death-
like features. After the manner of these people in violent
grief she had beaten her head against the fallen tree till
she dropped senseless beside it, and it was with much diffi-
culty that she was restored.

During my few days' sojourn here the natives presented
me with a blue-striped sailor's shirt, a flannel one, and a
pair of dangaree trousers, trophies of the wreck. The
first was strong and little worn, having beep in the posses-
sion of an old woman who kept it hung up in her house
as a curiosity and decoration. It was not without much
solicitation that she parted with it, though, when I presented
her with my old ragged one instead, she seemed well pleased
with the exchange. My thick cloth trousers, though much
admired by the natives, were in a sadly dilapidated condition,

ACQUISITION OF A SAIL. 281

bound together in various parts by fish-bones. The blue
shirt I gave to Juan, who required it as much as myself. Our
dress was much admired. The chief treasure I obtained was
a large sheet, formerly my own, held by the possessor in
great estimation. This I was anxious to secure as a sail for
my boat. I could not obtain possession of it, however, other-
wise than by stratagem. During our evening meal, when a
crowd assembled to see the " lions feed," I told them won-
drous stories of the manner in which our small boats were
managed with a sail, their beating to windward, and the long
voyages we performed in them. They were rather incredulous
at this, believing that without an outrigger so small a boat as
mine must capsize. I said I would show them to-morrow
how I could manage my boat with the aforesaid sheet— a
proposal with which all, except the possessor, were delighted.
On the morrow, however, his remonstrances were of no avail,
and he was induced to hand it over to me. Though my
performance in the little flat-bottomed punt, which slid
away to leeward, would not have gained applause with a
regatta club, it was sufficient to establish me in the posses-
sion of my sail. The poor fellow actually wept in parting with
it, but I was hard-hearted enough to hold to it. Some of
his friends, observing his grief, relented in his favour ; and
fearing the reaction might become general I determined to
leave at once.

I told Juan to send his wife over the reef to the little
island where a termination had been put to my former
attempt at exploration. He and I then, without formal
leave-taking, pushed off— the natives supposing we meant
merely a passing visit to a chief from whom we had had a
pressing invitation, through his pretty little daughter, who
now accompanied Juan's wife over the reef.

My arrival at the spot I had formerly left in such disgust
was hailed with feelings very different from those which had

282 TAMATA*

greeted me on the previous occasion. The few inhabitants
gathered round us with every demonstration of friendship ;
an oven was at once heated to cook fish, pashus, and neu
oara for our entertainment. We were soon joined, too, by
the overland party, augmented by several young people from
Tepuka.

By daylight we were astir ; and Juan's wife having, with
proper forethought, secured provisions for our morning meal,
we proceeded directly to the boat. Leaving a little group,
apparently uninhabited, which appeared to be sprinkled with
gaunt, barren, or scathed cocoa-nut trees, scrubby pandanas,
and rank hara weeds, we made for the nearest island of any
importance, winding our way with difficulty through a
channel of broken coral. On reaching the shore the boy
ascended a cocoa-nut tree, of which there were but few in
the island, and with what he procured we made our morning
meal, which proved rather scanty. Leaving the girl and
boy on shore to find their way along the beach, we in the
boat wound along the reef, with a gentle breeze from the
shore swelling our new sail. The innumerable shoals re-
quired our constant attention. When the sun shines on
the water, it is almost impossible to discern them till you
are on their tops. Their rugged edges, and numerous needle-
points, render them very dangerous. Keeping as close to
the reef as we dared, that we might be in communication
with the pedestrians, our progress was but slow. We found
the island very bare of food (the first attention of the
natives), many of the trees being dead. Tamata, as it
was called, formerly belonging to the Tautuans, as did all
the eastern group, but it was now a tributary to Tepuka,
the natives of which had ravaged and nearly depopulated
it. There were no inhabitants along the line we had
traversed, but on rounding the next point, we came to a
pleasant little bay, where a party of natives were fishing with

A SUBPBISB. 283

the "rau rau. JI They seemed to have made a good haul,
-which so occupied their attention that they did not notice us
till close upon them. As we did not know how we might be
received we kept to seaward of them, having previously taken
in our friends, who were much more alarmed than we. As
soon, however, as we got to a safe distance from the natives,
I hailed them. The sound of my voice had an electrifying
effect. Dropping the "rau rau/' they rushed with wild
shouts to their canoe for their weapons, which they bran-
dished in a most threatening manner.

When the boy, however, stood up and explained who we
-were, one of the party advanced with the usual friendly
gestures. On his nearer approach I recognised him as the
Tepukan who had visited us in Mangerongaro. After the
customary salutations he entreated us, with native supersti-
tion, not to approach nearer or they would catch no fish, but
to proceed to the settlement a little beyond the opposite
point, and await their arrival. They would follow us there
in a few minutes, and in the meantime his wife would enter-
tain us.

As our breakfast had been but a light one, and the morn-
ing air had whetted our appetites, we pushed on in anticipa-
tion of a comfortable meal. With a little labour at the
oar we soon found ourselves at the landing-place, where
our tiny bark was drawn up high and dry upon the beach.
Pushing inland we approached a cluster of mean-looking
houses, apparently deserted, as there was no stir of life till
Juan began to ransack the roof of the nearest hut, where
the native treasures are generally bestowed. A menacing
scream then told us we were not unobserved, and several old
women were soon around Juan, who informed them he was
looking for something to eat. This was literally true, for
there was nothing to be seen in the houses except one or two
old sleeping-mats. The natives of this island, which is

284 THE TAUTUANS.

situated between contending nations, find it necessary for
security to secrete their property.

We told them that their men were coming with lots of
fish, but in the meantime we would take what they had to
offer. Instead of entertaining us hospitably, however, they
sullenly left us one after another, not even their natural
curiosity detaining them. We awaited the return of the
fishers for some time, but as they did not come we ordered
the boy up the best supplied tree. This he soon denuded of
its cocoa-nuts, in spite of the violent expostulations of the
old women, who, as each nut fell on the ground, uttered
screams of anger, and even threats of vengeance. They
sneered at our retorts, imagining that their proximity to
Tepuka secured them from such distant foes ; but, fortunately
for our veracity and farther influence, a very few nights
afterwards they were invaded by our Mends of Sararak—
an event which I turned to account on more than one
occasion.

Seeing the bad feeling that existed against us here we did
not await the return of the men, but pushed off to sea with
no very pleasant anticipations of our next encounter with the
Tautuans. We coasted along their shore for a mile or two,
till, observing another opening in the reef leading to a more
densely timbered shore, we cautiously passed into it. The
passage led us not only to the beach, but, by a deep pool,
overshadowed by palms, and bridged by a fallen cocoa-tree
log, to a spacious shoal lagoon in the centre of the island.
We beached our boat under the overhanging trees that
spread their feathery branches across the little channel.
After a close inspection of the ground on either side, we
discovered neither footprints nor any other signs of popula-
tion, except a few decayed and long-deserted huts. Secure
from danger, therefore, we undressed and plunged from the
rustic bridge into the transparent pool, an exercise which we

THE ALARM CEY. 285

enjoyed for an hour or so, whilst the girl prepared our mid-
day meal, after partaking of which Joan and I went to
survey this part of the coast.

I found that the lagoon opened at its northern side to the
sea-bound reef, across which at this point the sea also washed
into the main lagoon, separating that portion from a still
more densely wooded island on the opposite shore. This, I
was informed by our Kanakas, was " Muta Muno," which we
might expect to find inhabited. After a little delay we got
into our boat and pulled to the other island, where we
found a convenient landing-place. "We observed the palms
had been so entirely stripped of their fruit that we could find
none to allay the thirst which exposure to the sun produced.
We proceeded, therefore, cautiously inland to an elevated
ridge about the middle of the island, fearing a surprise from
the natives, who had been represented to us as treacherous
and fierce. There was still no evidence of inhabitants
except an old house going to decay, but we found some
fruit-bearing trees, one of which our boy immediately began
to ascend. At the same moment, however, the well-known
alarm cry (" Taka oatche 1") was heard a short distance off,
and then we became aware of the presence of an observer in
the shape of a young girl, who peered in terror at us behind
a cocoa-nut log. When we approached nearer to her she
raised her voice in loud tones of alarm, and was responded to
(at a distance apparently) by a hundred others. This was
the more provoking, as I was anxious to establish a friendly
intercourse with these people, having become assured, from
the multitude of old pearl-shells along the island we had
left, that this side of the lagoon was most prolific in
pearls.

Juan ordered his wife to go forward alone, to reassure the
young stranger, which she did. As they spoke, the wild
shouts of the savages told of their rapid approach ; at which

286 EAKA PUTA.

the manner of the young girl changed, and she urged us to
fly to our boat, and put to sea, or we should all be killed.
I told her that I did not want to leave, as I had come to
make friends with her people, and with her particularly, she
was so lovely. What a little flattery will do ! Even the heart
of the savage yields to its influence. The large soft eyes
opened in a kind of pleased wonder, and, springing forward,
the maiden jumped into the boat, which had now been
pushed into the water, and promised to take us to a place of
safety. Seeing, however, that the boat was too small to hold
us all, she ordered the boy and girl to remain, as they would
not be injured; but urged us to push off instantly. Indeed
it was high time, as we could already see the red forms of the
natives rushing along the ridge we had just left; but we
were beyond reach of their spears when they gained the
beach, and surrounded our two young friends, to whom, I
was happy to see, they offered no violence. They called on
our new companion " Haka Puta" (the heiress, or holder
of possessions) to come back ; but she replied that she was
going to land at her own place, where they were to join her.
On hearing this they returned quite peacefully along the
sandy shore, keeping abreast of us as we coasted along the
fringe of the reef some quarter of a mile.

Haka Puta at once squatted herself in the stern of the
boat, from whence she issued her commands in the most
dictatorial manner. She was very communicative, too, and,
notwithstanding her imperious manner, full of fun, ridiculing
our ungrammatical Kanaka, It appeared she had gone with
her father, a leading Tepukan chief, to Sararak, when some of
her tribe first visited us; but I did not recollect her, though
she did me.

We had already reached her house when the pedestrians
began to make their appearance. As they approached they
performed the "hai," and made other demonstrations of

MAHAUTA Nlji. 287

friendship, so that all fear of danger was removed for the
present.

It was finally arranged that we should proceed to the
quarters of the great chief, who, like the late Tepukan king,
was called " Mahauta Nue." He adopted me, whilst his
brother, apparently an older man, yet inferior in rank, took
charge of Juan and his wife — an arrangement which did not
seem at all satisfactory to our self-willed young friend, who
looked on us as her especial property. Mahauta presented
me with his spear as a mark of confidence. He was tall,
athletic, and well-proportioned.

On our march we passed by a waste tract of some extent,
on which were some gaunt and plumeless palm-trunks rapidly
going to decay. I asked Mahauta how the district had he-
come blighted. " Oa oahea," he answered — that is, " The
crest of the tree has been cut off." When this is done it
soon dies, and the timber falls rapidly to decay. I suggested
that he should replant it He looked over the land in a melan-
choly manner, and, shaking his head, said, " Who would eat
it ? — we shall be all dead, and our children, perhaps, in other
lands/ 1 I subsequently learned that this was the scene of a
great battle, where the people of Tautua (then the most
powerful and dreaded of the group, having themselves sub-
jected all the east coast) had been defeated by their united
enemies of the opposite shores, who had destroyed their trees
and killed so many of their warriors, that they had never
since been able to regain their power. Their population
daily decreasing, they were no longer able to guard their ex-
tensive territory, and, for safety, were compelled to concen-
trate their small force as much as possible in one spot to
avoid being cut off in detail by their merciless enemies.

After crossing a partially sea- washed reef, we came to a
small island of about half a mile in extent, well wooded with
palms, and possessing quantities of a shrub, not unlike

283 EXPLORATION OF A SMALL ISLAND.

privet, bearing a small pink flower, and ere long emerged on
a narrow slip of reef, over which the sea dashed with sufficient
force to form a continuous rapid towards the lagoon, mating
the footing very precarious.

We soon reached our quarters, and, while the evening
meal was in preparation, were of course the centre of attrac-
tion. Our dress, our hair, and our persons, as far as we would
permit, were made the object of their investigations, but their
timidity was such that they were easily checked when too
obstrusive. The luxury of an extra coating of gravel was
spread on the floor of our huts to soften our beds, on which,
after the fatigues of the day, we slept soundly.

The following morning my first object was to explore
the island, the only striking features of which were its
prominence, rendering it a good position from which to
see passing ships, a fresh-water lagoon and swamp in the
centre, and more appearance of an alluvial soil than I
had before met with. I regretted deeply that I had not
earlier been aware of the existence of such a spot, as I
have little doubt yams, sweet potatoes, and pumpkin seed,
so unsuccessfully planted in Sararak, would have thriven
here; and if we were to dwell long in this place, these
fruits would have been an inestimable treasure. Satisfied
with the position of the island as a look-out post, and
there being apparently an abundance of fish (especially my
favourite, the " ruchy "), I determined to take up my abode
here for some time, if the hospitality of the people, which,
at present was liberal enough, did not flag.

On my return to the village my breakfast was awaiting
me. Sundry little black cocoa-nut utensils, filled with various
kinds of fish, were placed before me, together with a mass of
very small scarlet fish, pressed and baked into akind of cake—
a very palatable dish, that I had not seen before. This little
fish, which is secured in great shoals, when dried, pressed,

INVASION OP THE ISLAND. 289

cooked, and eaten cold, forms an agreeable meal. I was
intently engaged discussing all these bounties, the donor of
each article reminding' me that he was the contributor,
when, with a ringing laugh, a pair of soft hands pressed
tightly on my eyes, and my head was drawn back. As soon
as I could disengage myself, I beheld the merry face of
Haka Puta leaning over me. I told her to sit down beside
me, and partake of the good things before us — a request with
which she complied so heartily that I was not astonished at
the rotundity of her person. Haka Puta was very youthful,
but decidedly stout. Nevertheless, she was extremely pretty,
and her limbs were beautifully formed. Her hair had the
auburn tings common at this place, and her eyes were large
and lively. Throughout the day she trotted after me wherever
I went, and at night her reluctant parting for her own village
showed that already a friendly feeling had been established
between us.

We had been about a week here when we were aroused
one morning by the alarm cry, " Taka oatchfe !" and I had
scarcely reached the beach when I observed several canoes,
containing about one hundred warriors, rounding a little
promontory to the southward, and rapidly approaching the
landing-place of Muta Muno. The Tautuans, of course,
flew to arms, but resistance would have been useless, as they
could not muster a third of the above number in fighting
men. They therefore kept together at their little stronghold!
determined to oppose the invaders if they advanced so far,
but to make no attempt to prevent their lading. The
women rushed to the scene of action, Juan and I follow-
ing ; and their yells and noise were enough to have scared
a more civilized army. Our present visitors, however,
were proof against such sounds, and already the cocoa-
nuts were falling in all directions before the hand of
the spoiler. On our way I was joined by Haka Puta, who,

u

290 STRIPPING THE COCOA-NUT TREES.

ever on the alert, had learned that it was ray friends of
Sararak who had made the descent. She begged me eagerly
to assist in saving her land from plunder; and I assured her
of my best exertions on her account, though, remembering
the half-starved condition of these people when I left them,
I had not much confidence in my influence over them in
their present excited state.

, On beholding me their labours were for a moment aban-
doned, whilst they performed the customary salutations ; but,
as time was too precious for much ceremony, they hurriedly
resumed their work. I was astonished at the rapidity of
their movements. The trees that had any number of nuts
were ascended in a minute, and the fruit was rapidly
wrenched from the stem, and dropped to others beneath,
who, before picking it up, tore off a strip of the husk, and
tied two together, forming what is called an " echik." When
ten of these pairs had been collected they were, by a rapid
movement, ingeniously twisted together, forming "echuckau,"
tens, but literally twenties, as the Kanakas generally count
in pairs. These bundles were carried to the beach by the
old men, to be ready for removal at a moment's notice.
Their progress was like that of a host of locusts, all behind
their path being left bare.

On arriving at Haka Puta's land, I had much difficulty in
saving it from plunder, for many who had got into the trees
before I saw them had already gathered quantities of nuts.
In every instance, however, they good-naturedly obeyed my
order to com£ down ; though some of the leading men ex-
postulated with me about my interference, reminding me
that these people were our enemies, and that they showed
great clemency in not taking their lives.

When a sufficient quantity had been collected to fill their
fleet, they had a grand gorge after their lengthened absti-
nence, before starting on their return voyage. Whilst thus

ALARMING REPORT. 291

occupied, I tried to bring O Pai Tangata and Mahauta Nu$
together, but neither seemed willing to trust himself in the
other's presence. The people of Sararak were very anxious
that I should return with them; but as I was in good
quarters I declined. They went off in high spirits across
the lagoon, their canoes laden to the water's edge. The
village of the Tautuans was very silent that night ; and our
next morning meal was much later than usual, as the people
had now farther to go for food. They were also thrown
into the greatest distress by a report that Matunga was
preparing an expedition against them.

As the people of Matunga had at all times an abundance
of food, their healthy trees bearing prolifically, and their
insular position affording them a constant supply of fish, I
had shown them the folly of provoking quarrels with their
neighbours — where they could gain nothing, and might lose
much. This reasoning they seemed fully to appreciate, as, at
my expostulation, they had relinquished an expedition against
the same place on a former occasion. I therefore did not
believe in the report, and endeavoured to reassure the
Tautuans. My exertions, however, were useless, and the
whole community fell into a state of the greatest dejection.
- They seemed also to look on me with suspicion — not
without apparent reason, as in both cases it was my imme-
diate friends that were making the attack. It was in vain I
assured them that if the Matungans arrived I would prevent
their injuring them, for they remembered how little I had
interfered on a recent occasion. Haka Puta, who still
trotted about with me everywhere, was the only one who
seemed fully to trust me, amusing me with her innocent
prattle.

On account of the suspicions of the natives, I told Juan,
the second day, that the following afternoon we should
proceed on our expedition, to which he readily acceded.

v i

292 INVADED BY THE MATUNGANS.

Not so his fair spouse, who positively declined, having, as it
subsequently proved, private reasons for wishing to remain
where she was, whilst Juan was rather desirous for their
departure. During our stay in Tepuka a good-looking
young fellow, whom the girl represented as her "tenia"
(brother or cousin, the same word implying both) had been
a constant visitor at their lodgings, and, since oar arrival
here, had made a second visit to us. In Juan's absence I
had seen the fellow in rather closer intimacy than is con-
sistent with these people's ideas of such near relationship.

The next morning, shortly after daylight, our little com-
munity was dismayed by the arrival of a messenger from the
opposite shore, with tidings that the Matungans, together
with a number of the people of Tokerau, were concealed
in the woods we had just left, and we might immediately ex-
pect them, with a white man by whom they were led. I was
now satisfied that the Matungans were in reality on the
march, and at once concluded that Frankfe, who had long
been jealous of my influence, had taken advantage of my ab-
sence to excite them to this expedition and to make himself
popular by joining in it. Uncertain, therefore, how far my
inflence might have been dispelled, I felt anxious about the
result. Some of the Tautuans talked of flying to their most
distant island, or even to Tepuka; others of putting to sea
ia their canoes. Their wavering councils were brought to a
hurried conclusion, however, by the appearance of the enemy's
fleet advancing rapidly across the passage. Mahauta at once
declared his intention of opposing their landing, and the men
hurried to arm themselves with less noise and more determi-
nation than I had yet seen amongst these people, while
the women rushed off, screaming, to secrete such little
household valuables as they possessed.

The little group of warriors, each armed with several spears,
collected around their young chief on the bank above the

franke's plans overturned. 293

strand, towards which the canoes were heading. An occa-
sional muttered exclamation, or the names of such of
their assailants as they recognised, were the only sounds
amongst them. I observed with, surprise, what I had never
seen before, that the men were entirely nude, and I after-
wards learned that, in cases of extreme affliction, they
throw off the maro. I kept, with Juan, in the background,
having recognised Frankfe, and not wishing him to know
I was here till the Matungans were within speaking
distance, when I hoped to be able to resume my influence
over them before he had time to concert hostile measures.
As they approached I saw that all the boats were filled with
familiar faces, but I looked in vain for Turua, who alone had
refused to join the expedition: I hurried down with Juan
to the strand, calling out their names, and with my hand
waving the friendly salutation, " Shara, shara." In an in-
stant all Franke's plans were overturned. Every canoe
stopped, and their crews, shouting my name, " Tanie Mano,
e," waved the shara, shara; whilst, notwithstanding Frankfe's
discomfited looks and remonstrances, the leader of each boat
rose and made the speech of welcome. This ceremony over,
I told Taharua of the recent incursion from Sararak, the
poverty of the people, their kindness to me, and my determi-
nation to protect them. They all assured me of their friendly
intentions, and asked for permission to land that they might
meet my new friends in peace. I could not, however, restore
confidence to the Tautuans, and Mahauta begged me to take
them to the landing-place on the adjoining island. It was
at length arranged that those with Taharua alone should land,
while the others remained in their canoes. The Tautuans
then seated themselves, and the Matungans, after saluting
me, sat down near the others in a group. Taharua took
his place beside Mahauta, whom he saluted — an act of friend-
ship which was returned by the latter. It was evident, how-

294 DANGEROUS SHOAL.

ever, that there was no great love or confidence on either
side.

The evening meal occupied them till it was dark, which
prevented the danger of any pilfering that night, as they are
too superstitious to venture out for such a purpose at late
hours. All, therefore, retired to rest in peace.

By daylight I was astir, and hastened to the house where
Franke, with some of the younger men, had slept, but, as I
feared, it was already deserted. I hurried to Taharua, and
with him went in search of the others, whom we discovered
in the act of climbing some trees. We ordered them back
to the beach. Taharua was in a towering passion, but they
excused themselves by throwing all the blame on Frankfe,
who had incited them to this breach of their promise.

The morning meal over, after a pressing request for me
to return with them, they took their departure without
having pulled a single cocoa-nut; and, as they paddled
off from the shore, shouted their farewell, €t Ahana, Tame
Mano, ahana !" with peculiar melancholy voice and action,
which I returned after their own fashion, calling out their
names respectively to each.

I had a special object in remaining at Tautua. I had
heard the people mention the existence of a shoal, of several
miles in extent, lying off the point of the group to the north-
east. As well as I could make out from their conflicting
statements, this shoal was about ten miles from the land. I
have since found that it is not laid down on any chart, nor
does Wilks, who* pretends to give a correct survey, allude to
it, though it is an object most dangerous to ships approach-
ing the islands in that direction. As the sea breaks over it,
however, except in fine weather, the danger may be observed
before it is too late, except in such a case as ours. Accord-
ing to report it abounds with fish and pearls, though the
latter statement is denied by many. All, however, agreed

RESOLVE TO PROCEED ON MY JOURNEY. 295

that they could not venture to it on any but a perfectly calm
day, and, though Mahauta had promised to get up an expe-
dition for the purpose, there was always something to pre-
vent it

I got tired of their procrastination, and resolved to proceed
on my journey. This, however, was not so easily done. They
had now found I could serve them, and were anxious for me
to remain. Our cockle-shell of a boat would not convey four
of us across the passage, where a strong ocean swell set in ;
and as they had always some excuse to prevent our having
the use of a canoe, I determined, with the help of my party,
to launch one early in the morning, and, having made the
opposite coast, leave it for some of the natives to come and
take back. Haka Puta was the only obstacle to this plan, as
she constantly followed me about, and, if she saw me taking
a canoe, would certainly give the alarm. I therefore
arranged to get her out of the way. In the morning
I told her I was going to visit her mother, and asked her
to accompany me, which she did in high good humour.
We had passed to the opposite island, and were wending our
way through its shady groves when I said I was taking
her home, as I intended leaving for Matunga in the morning.
She did not understand me at first, and was in great joy,
believing she was to accompany me, but when I undeceived
her she burst into a passion of grief, and, squatting down,
said she would go back and tell Mahauta, who would pre-
vent our getting away. I tried every persuasion to induce
her to come on with me, but to no purpose. As she persisted
in sitting on the ground, crying violently. I told her if she
would not come with me to her mother I must leave her, and
would go away at once. I bade her good-bye, but she would
not answer, except by renewed crying and sobbing. I
therefore left her, I confess with no small feeling of regret.
Her disappointment, however, was only temporary, for in a

296 MY THIRD WIFE.

few minutes her cries had ceased, and I believed she had re-
turned to her own house, when the patter of rapid feet close
behind made me look back, and the next moment Haka Puta
threw her arms round me, and, half- laughing, half-crying,
said I had only been making fun, and was not going to leave
them to the attacks of their enemies to be murdered, or
starved to death, or if I was I should at least take her
with me.

I felt sorry for her, but I was inexorably hard-hearted,
and told her I should leave that evening. I tried to dis-
engage myself from her, but, throwing herself on the ground,
she clung to me, exclaiming, " Cary coi ahana ! Cary coi
ahana !" (You shall not go) . She screamed for help, and
not without success, for several women — amongst the rest
her mother — attracted by her shrieks, rushed to her as-
sistance.

All things considered, why not take unto myself another
wife ? Having two already I need not scruple about a third,
and, so resolving, I raised my dark-skinned beauty from her
recumbent position, patted her the head, and calling her
my wife, said I would now really take her to Matunga;
whereat, in testimony of her delight, she brought her nose
into contact with mine, and treated me to an amount of
friction which was more flattering than agreeable. Our
party continued to swell till nearly the whole village had
congregated, and when they learned the result of all the
noise, the entire crowd returned in great joy to the hamlet.
As for the little girl, she seemed overjoyed beyond all proper
decorum, dancing along before the party, and performing her
merriest antics for my amusement.

Couriers were despatched to bring in all the kith and kin
of the bride and their friends. All mine should have been
present also, but, as they belonged to the enemy, and besides
were too remote for the hasty arrangement, we dispensed

THE MARRIAGE BREAKFAST, ?97

with any of them except Juan, who was to be my grooms-
man.

The marriage breakfast was not magnificent, although in
the royal family. It is not usual for these people to
make much, if any, distinction on such occasions ; and they
have nothing corresponding to our bridecake — in fact, it was
strictly an ordinary meal, the same as on any other
day. The bride herself was not visible, custom, rather
than modesty, compelling her to remain in retire-
ment. After the morning meal, the different groups as-
sembled round the chiefs tent, where the groom and his
friends were already seated. The men formed in a row for
the pehu, and the women, before sitting down, arranged
their titches, that they might not crumple them, as they pre-
pared to join the chant. The bride, meanwhile, had not
appeared ; and it was not till she had been angrily called,
that from a closed tent some young girls emerged with what
seemed to be a bundle of mats in the centra. This, however,
was really the young bride, who, coming forth, ran towards
the tent where I was seated, and then darting back was
again enveloped in the mats, and withdrawn to the re-
motest corner of the house. The bride does not entirely
disrobe herself of the matting for several days after the mar-
riage, when she appears with the titchfe, which she wears con-
stantly for the remainder of her life. Whilst the young lady
hides her maiden blushes under the matting, and the gen-
tleman sits demurely, but more confidently, in front of the
hut, the ceremony of the pehu commences, accompanied by
rather an extra amount of crying, scratching, and bleeding,
making a most melancholy affair of the happy event. The
bride is then handed over to the oldest relatives or friends
present for some further ceremonies; which over, the happy
couple retire to their new abode.
After the first few days' feasting, the conjugal state did

298 DISCOURAGING POSITION.

not make much alteration in my habits, nor did my young
bride become more staid of matronly in her deportment.
Indeed, her vivacity seemed rather to increase, and her
greatest achievement was to get me out of the fits of
despondency which I could not avoid frequently indulging
in, as my hopes of escape were daily diminishing. On the
other hand, I had established friendly relations all round the
group, and could command assistance from any quarter in
time of danger ; but this was a poor solace where, amongst
a host of barbarians, life was of so little value to me.

299

CHAPTER XL

Plan of a White Kingdom — Proposed Departure — Matrimonial
Disturbance — Ruchd Fishing — Departure — Reception at Ma-
tunga — A Shakspeare Lesson — Haka Puta's Amusements — Dis-
agreeable Habits of the Natives — Rayheys — Fishing Expedition
— Chera Puna — Presents — Curtain Lecture — Scarcity of Cocoa-
nuts — Departure from Matunga — Farewell to the Noble Turua
— Passage through the Mutagohiche Territory — Affairs of the
Islands — The People, their Jealousies and Wars — Misadventure
to Haka Puta — Arrival in Sararak — Important Council — The-
atrical Representation of our Shipwreck — The White Feather
shown by Franke — A Tranquil Life in Mangerongaro— Unwel-
come Visit of the Tepukans — Great Festivities — The Mukatea
— My Mission to the Tepukans — Factious Proceedings amongst
ourselves — Quarrel between Turua and Ocura — False Alarm —
Danger of Wooing for another — Jealousy.

I HAD at this time a serious intention of forming a white
kingdom. The barren and deserted islands on the other
side of the channel, whose few aud scattered cocoa-nut trees
were the common property of all who chose to rifle them,
would, if properly cultivated, nearly suffice to support our
small party, with our wives — especially as many of us had
claims in other parts of the group, which we could at all
times fall back on — till the young groves, which we should
at once set about planting, had arrived at maturity. The
chief difficulty in this plan was the disaffection of Joe
and Frankfe, who, if they did not join us, would most pro-
bably, on our withdrawal permanently from the other islands,
excite against us the animosity of the more distant ones.
However, with Buahara and our firm allies, the Matun-

300 AN UNBIDDEN GUEST*

gans, on the one hand, and my newly-made friends and
relatives on the other, our position was good. There is so
little food for the mind in a monotonous life that with
such an idea as I had now got I could not rest till I had
endeavoured to put it into execution ; and I once more re-
solved to return to the west of the group to confer on the
subject with my companions in distress. Juan was de-
lighted when I informed him of my resolution, for, as I
learned from him for the first time, he had been in a most
uncomfortable state of mind for several days past. I had
observed in the village the tall beau from Tepuka, before
mentioned, who assumed to be a relative of Juan's wife.

Accordingly, I declared that it was my intention to
take my departure on the morrow. Of course, the usual
objections were offered ; but finally, our arrangements were
made for the second day from that date, and as we could
not leave without a suitable supply of food, preparations
were set about for a day's fishing extraordinary. The
ladies busied themselves with their cooking apparatus,
whilst some of the youths were sent across the channel to
form a temporary encampment of palm-boughs close to the
point, that being a celebrated fishing ground.

The following morning Juan and I proceeded to our
accustomed bathing-place, but we had not been long there
when, to my astonishment, he abruptly left me and returned
to the village. A few minutes afterwards, shouts of alarm and
confused noises made me aware of some untoward event. I
ran to the scene of action, where I saw a number of figures
passing at full speed, whilst many of the women were wail-
ing and wringing their hands. On asking the cause of all
this disturbance, I found that Juan, on his return, had dis-
covered the suspected stranger inside his house, the sides of
which were let down. At once bursting in, he had en-
deavoured to grapple with his unbidden guest, who, eluding

A STORM. 301

the friendly embrace, had dashed out, and made for the
wood, Juan after him, brandishing his formidable iron
sword, and, like the veriest savage amongst them, yelling
vengeance. At this moment the tall visitor emerged from the
wood like a hunted wolf; and when, with a glance over his
shoulder, he saw the dreaded sword of Juan brandishing clo.c
behind, terror was expressed in every feature. As they ran
along the open beach I sprang forward to join in the pursuit,
when several of the natives threw themselves before me, and
begged me, instead of assisting Juan, to stop him, for they
assured me, should a Tepukan be killed among them, the
consequences would be dreadful. Juan did not require my
assistance, however, for jealous rage augmenting his speed,
he rapidly gained on his foe. Already the dangerous
weapon was raised for a furious cut when the islander,
springing down the bank, dashed into the water where it
deepened at the edge, and struck out for the opposite coast.
Juan, fortunately, did not attempt to follow the amphibious
savage, who, skilfully avoiding the stones thrown after him
was soon out of danger.

The savage must have been greatly alarmed, for Juan's
domestic peace was never troubled by him again. The
thrashing which, on his return home, he gave his spouse,
seemed to have been so satisfactory to his wounded feelings
that when, on the following morning, our fleet started for
the Contra Costa, he was the jolliest among us.

The ruchfe fishing was very successful. We had abun-
dant feasting that day, and baskets were filled for our journey
with utos, neu oara, &c. We had scarcely lain down, how-
ever, when one of those sudden changes that occur in these
lands took place. The lovely starlit heavens became over-
cast, the thunder rolled, and the rain fell in torrents during
the entire night. The only way to bear it was to sit up,
gathered into as small a compass as possible; but sleep at

302 TOKERAU.

length overtook me. Towards morning I awoke, lying in a
pool of water, from which, as it was not very cold, I did not
experience much inconvenience at the time, though the fre-
quency of such exposures has had since a most injurious
effect.

After an early breakfast of ruch£ — the best fish in the
world, cooked in a manner that Soyer could not excel — we
selected as a servant a young lad, a poor relation of Haka
Puta's, and took a melancholy farewell of our kind friends.
Juan and I proceeded in the boat, the two women and the
boy journeying afoot along the beach, whilst the shara-shara
and oft-repeated " Ahana !" were waved and shouted to us
with feelings of genuine sorrow. Our boat was loaded with
provisions, and our friends were delighted to receive us, as
we were enabled to afford them such a meal as they had not
enjoyed for some time past.

In the evening we were joined by a family from the further
end of the island, with whom was a tall, handsome-looking
young girl, whom I had met on my previous visits to this
place. I was pleased to see her, though my little spouse
treated her very coolly, and on her departure said, " She won-
dered how I could speak to such an ugly thing I" I thought
nothing of her little jealousy at the time, but subsequently
had cause to remember it.

The following morning my boat was carried down to the
beach by the officious natives, who had taken it into the in-
terior, hoping to induce me to prolong my stay, and Haka
Puta and I took our departure, the rest of my party follow-
ing overland to Tokerau. As we sailed leisurely along the
shore towards the point facing Matunga, I could distinguish
amongst the shouting crowds on the beach many familiar
faces, and when we entered the little sheltered coral cove the
natives plunged into the water and hurried us, skiff and all,
over the pebbly strand, until our boat was sheltered under

BASHFULNESS OF HAKA PUTA. 303

the young palms. This to me had always been a pretty spot,
but it now seemed doubly sweet, for I returned with joy to
it as my home. The pleasant isle of Matunga lay smiling in
tranquillity across the passage, the dense shade of its groves
only hiding from my view the many sincere friends that I
knew crowded its shores, anxiously awaiting my return. I
did not, therefore, delay long at Tokerau, but procuring a
canoe started across the channel (some three miles in width).
A gentle breeze filled my little sail sufficiently to keep her
ahead of the other laboriously-propelled canoes, to the de-
light of their boisterous occupants, who vainly endeavoured
to pass me.

We had not proceeded half the distance when we discerned "
the forms of natives on the beach. As we neared the
shore, they Tan along the strand, waving hundreds of palm
branches, generally one in each hand, Turua and Taha Rua
conspicuous amongst them.

My bashful partner declared it was impossible for her to
land ; she could never go amongst so many strangers. My
threats and entreaties were of no avail, and I had at last
forcibly to land her on the beach, when she at once made a
dart towards an inverted canoe, under which she managed to
conceal herself. Here I was compelled to leave her and pro-
ceed towards the expectant assembly, whilst some women,
who had been sent to hasten my approach, tried to induce
my modest spouse to quit her nest.

Arrived at the council-house, I found the population of
Matunga drawn up in the usual form, the women seated in two
rows facing each other, with a space in the centre, the men
standing behind them. On my approach all shara-sharaed
and shouted my name. Several of the chiefs made lengthened
speeches, accompanied by a short dance, on the conclusion of
which they approached the spot where I stood apart and per-
formed the most abject salutations. A mat was then placed

304 6TUDT OF SHAKSPEARE.

in the centre, where I was compelled to sit. In vain I endea-
voured to prevent their catting themselves, for on so eventful
an occasion such an important part of the ceremony could
not he omitted. When, however, their bleeding bodies and
fatigued appearance showed that they had had enough of it,
I was called on to pass round the delighted circle and receive
their homage.

Franke and Joe, during the pehu, had been endea-
vouring to turn the affair into ridicule, to the great disgust
of some of the natives. Since my return they had been
treated with entire neglect. This pair of worthies, finding
Matunga daily becoming more uncomfortable, took their de-
parture for Mutagohiche, whose people, having recently had
a misunderstanding with their ancient allies of Sararak, were
more anxious to cultivate the friendship of white men than
heretofore.

I was sorry to find that many of my friends looked with
coldness on poor Haka Puta, which she had perception
enough quickly to observe ; but being naturally intelligent
and animated, amongst the young people of her own sex she
became a universal favourite, and, after the morning meal, it
was usual to see her, with a crowd of other young women, in
some favourite resort, retailing to eager ears stories of
foreign lands which she had learned from me the preceding
evening. This gave her considerable importance, which she
seemed rather to enjoy.

My study of Shakspeare was a mystery which even her
intelligence could not fathom. I endeavoured to make her
understand the use I made of the book, but her comprehen-
sion must have been rather confused, for she would sit a long
time gazing at its mysterious pages (as likely as not upside
down), and eventually would lay it down in blank disappoint-
ment.

On one occasion, when she was looking at one of the little

HAKA FUTA AS INTERPRETER* 305

cuts with which my copy was illustrated, and which I had
frequently, but unsuccessfully, tried to make the natives
comprehend, I pointed out to her, with a sharp fish bone,
the eyes, nose, mouth, &e., of a face strikingly distinct. At
once observing the resemblance, she clapped her hands,
and excitedly exclaimed, " No te mata e te miche !" (" The
face of a child I") I then explained the rest of the figure,
and finally the whole picture, telling her what the characters
were — the king, his queen, chiefs, &c., the style of dress,
and so on, to her infinite delight and astonishment ; and
soon I saw her squatted in a circle of excited companions,
to whom she was endeavouring to describe what I had just
enabled her to understand. Such instructions afforded her
great pleasure. Every evening it was my office to explain
one of the pictures, and the following day she would com-
municate what she had learned not only to the young
people, but to the motherly women, the old crones, and not
unfrequently the first chiefs, especially when anything striking
was on the tapis. The translation, it is true, was of the
freest; and I doubt whether the Bard of Avon would have
recognised his characters as represented by the little savage
recorder.

In my wanderings she was constantly by my side, sharing
the popularity bestowed on me. Her tongue, to be sure, was
a most active member, but I myself was fond both of talking
and of hearing others talk. When, in my deficiency of the
language, I failed in making myself fully understood, her
absurd translation was most amusing, as she always pre-
tended perfectly to comprehend me. Her interpretation
of their language to me in cases of difficulty was a master-
piece of mystification. She would insert in her discourse at
any point, and no matter how irrelevant, the three or four
words of English she possessed. When she succeeded in
making me understand her, she considered it a great

x

306 YEARKING FOB HOME.

triumph, and, dapping her hands, performed all kinds of
joyous antics. She evinced, however, a greater amount of
jealousy than was agreeable ; and when any of our female
acquaintances occupied more of my conversation than she
considered proper, she very unceremoniously ordered us
to " manieniewr !" which may be expressed in our vernacular
by the vulgar phrase, " shut up !" or in more polite, but
less forcible English, " Silence !" Her chief delight was
to show off her privileges, and the liberties she could take
before the chiefs or great men of the island. When sitting
in council amidst these "potent, grave, and reverend
signers," she has not unfrequently stolen behind me, jumped
on my back, and, to the astonishment of those around, pulled
me to the ground before I was aware. Sometimes, when walk-
ing, she would spring on my back, and insist on being car-
ried. This, however, I cured her of by carrying her one morn-
ing to a rock in front of the village, a little distance from the
beach, where the water reached my waist, and from which
she could not return without wetting her tiche. Here I
left her screaming and imploring me to take her off, the
usual crowd of idlers on the beach laughing at her all the
time; nor would I remove her till she had promised to
conduct herself with more matronly propriety in future.

Haka Puta proved an excellent housekeeper. Naturally
cleanly, she readily adopted my instructions. Her willing
resignation of the disagreeable habits of her countrywomen
made her culinary arrangements very satisfactory. Living
in peace and plenty, "monarch of all I surveyed," I
should have been perfectly content, but for the constant
yearning for home. Thoughts of absent friends, of my
business, and of my future in the world, carried my mind
away in discontent from a lot often envied by my comrades
in bondage. I still wandered to the beach morning, noon,
and night, in the hope of beholding a white sail nearing our

A PABTY FISHING. 307

island prison. In my restlessness I resolved to visit Omuka,
leaving Haka Puta in charge of Harry, who, with his sweet
young wife, was then in Matunga. Haka Puta showed
much opposition to my absenting myself, the reason of which
I did not at the time know ; but, on my return, Harry told
me she had kept them awake half the night with her com-
plaints that I had goue off to Chera Puna, and left her
altogether. On my landing, she ran into the water, and
threw her arms around me with a demonstration of affec-
tion rarely exhibited by these formal people.

A few days after my return our people were thrown into
a state of alarm by information that the Tepukans were
€t making their spears" — in other words, preparing for war —
and it was feared that Matunga would be chosen for a
descent. The same day a deputation from Omuka sum-
moned our chiefs to a council ; and, on the next, our fleet
was on the move over the calm waters of the lagoon. On
approaching the rapid current of the passage, the paddles
were vigorously plied, wild shouts accompanying the un-
usual effort ; which, as they spread from canoe to canoe,
stimulated the rowers to their utmost exertions. As we
wound our way through the forest of coral, we approached
a large party of our neighbours busily occupied with their
nets among a shoal of " rayheys," a fish something like the
bream, that occasionally visits these shores in great
abundance.

The boats encircled the school, the occupants beating the
water with their paddles, and driving the fish towards the
shoals or bays in the reef, where they were captured in the
leafy folds of the rau-rau, or even by the hands of those on
the banks. So engrossed were they with their business,
that we were unnoticed till in their midst, when a few
friendly greetings were interchanged. While passing a canoe
full of young people, who had come to observe the sport,

x 2

808 VISIT TO CHEBA PUNA.

several of those in my boat exclaimed, "Tanie Mano, tera
Chera Puna!" But I looked in Tain for the large black
swimming eyes, fringed with long lashes, and the grace-
fully-curling auburn locks of the lovely girl. At length,
however, a cowering form in the bottom of the boat, con-
eealed by a cau-sho, was pointed out as the Omuka belle. I
turned towards Haka Puta to direct her attention to the
sharer in her lord's affection, when lo ! I found her en-
veloped in the same disguise. " Hallo!" thought I, "here
are rows brewing in the camp." But I took no further
notice, nor, indeed, thought more about the matter at the
time.

As we neared the shore, where a crowd had already assem-
bled to welcome us, poor Haka Puta's distress was complete.
Some of the girls rudely pulled aside the short leaf mantle
that hid her abashed head, so tbat I had to interfere on her
behalf. When we retired to the house allotted to us she
cried most bitterly, and begged me to take her back to
Matunga, where she had been so happy. Next day, how-
ever, the intelligent young Tepo, who called to visit us at
daylight, made herself agreeable to her new connexion ; and
they soon became great friends, leaving me at liberty to
visit my relations in various parts of the island.

Towards evening I returned by the house of Chera Puna,
a retired, sheltered spot near the beach. She sat on a mat
in front conversing with her mother, apparently, from the
energy of her gestures, on some exciting topic. She did not
see me till I was close to them, when, with an exclamation of
surprise, she threw herself on the mat, covering her face
with her hands. I spoke to her, and asked her to look up,
and welcome me back, but she would not ; and it was not
till her mother insisted on her getting up and accepting of
some of the presents offish, &c, with which I was returning
laden, that I could get her to speak. A present of this

haka puta's jealoust. 309

kind is always a token of friendship, and as it is used as a
sign that quarrels have been arranged, the refusal of it is
considered a declaration of enmity. As she rose from the
mat her large soft eyes nearly overflowed with tears, but
when I spoke gently she seemed rather pleased, and got into
better spirits. She, however, decidedly refused to visit me
whilst Uaka Puta was with me, and on my proposing to bring
the latter to see her, she indulged in a torrent of abuse against
her, telling her mother she was an ugly Tepakan, with cross
eyes and a big mouth, at the same time stretching her fea-
tures into a ridiculous caricature of her rival. The sobriquet
of Manua nufe, applied by Chera Puna to Haka Puta, stuck
to the latter, to her no small chagrin and disgust; but
she retaliated by calling her rival "Mata nufe" ("Big
eyes"), " Wa wa piki " (" Crooked legs"), and similar choice
names.

Whilst I sat in rather close proximity beside Chera Puna,
endeavouring to re-establish myself in her affections, one of
my Matunga friends passed, and in a meaning tone asked if
I had any word for Haka Puta, as he was going her way.
As this unfortunate sally made Chera Puna again sulky,
and the sun was rapidly sinking to the waves, I took my de-
parture, and soon reached our Matunga encampment, where
I found Haka Puta seated apart from our friends, finishing her
evening meal. I offered her the remainder of my presents,
but I could not induce her to touch anything I had brought.
Believing she fretted at her residence among strangers, after
a few gifts to my Matunga friends and their visitors, I re-
tired with her, and endeavoured, but in vain, to recall
her lively spirits. At last, tired of her unusual and unac-
countable temper, I lay down on my mat and left her to
herself.

All was quiet for a time, but suddenly the calm was dis-
turbed by a storm of violent invective. Mrs. Caudle never

310 DEPUTATION FBOM MANGERONGABO.

poured such a flood of curtain-lecture on her unfortunate
spouse as the young Haka Puta launched against me. " Are
you not ashamed of yourself, bringing a young girl from her
good friends to desert her among strangers, the enemies
of her people? Shame! shame ! but I shall leave to-mor-
row r

With some difficulty I introduced a remark to the effect
that she had no canoe.

"No canoe 1 No, true; but I can swim; the girls of
Tautua can swim better than the Omuka men, and I will
swim back" (ten miles). " You wouldn't give me a canoe
even to save me from the sharks ; but you can keep your
canoe for Chera Puna, and your fish for Chera Puna — Wa
wa piki ! — and you can go to her and leave me. Why did
you not stay with her when you presented her with fish and
cocoa-nuts? Why did you not keep her in your arms?
Why come back to me? I don't want you. For shame !
Go off to her now !"

Turua was not only a generous, but rather a prodigal
young fellow, and although his domain was wide, the nume-
rous guests that partook of his hospitality, along with his
increased family, began to thin bis cocoa-nuts, and, notwith-
standing Ocura's hints to be more careful of their staff of life,
we suddenly discovered one morning that the land had to be
mas-anga'd — a fact which at first was concealed from me. I
soon perceived, however, that after the guests had taken their
departure, the rest of the family were restricted in the quan-
tity of their food. Just at this time a deputation of three
women, relatives of O Pai Tangata, came to request my im-
mediate presence in Mangerongaro, as the chief was deadly
ill, and wished to see his son. I had had two or three mes-
sages previously from my friends in that place, but Haka
Puta's objection to going amongst strangers, and my affec-
tion for the Matunga people, made me disinclined to leave.

GRIEF OF TUBUA. 311

Nevertheless, under present circumstances, I decided to
proceed in a few days, and, giving my Mangerongaro ac-
quaintances some cocoa-nuts and fish, I sent them off with
a message to that effect.

Next morning, whilst Ocura was busied in washing up
some of the cooking utensils, and Turua mending the meshes
of his toto, preparatory to a fishing excursion, I called
Haka Puta into the house from the midst of a laughing group of
companions, to inform her that the next day we must depart
for Sararak. She cried and entreated to remain, till, rather
annoyed, I asked her — speaking louder than was prudent — if
she was not ashamed to see Turua and Ocura depriving them-
selves of food for our sakes.

On passing Turua I observed him resting his face in both
hands, and, fearing he was ill, I pulled away a hand to ask
him what was the matter, and found the tears flowing down
his cheeks. Throwing his great brawny arms around me,
he begged me not to leave him. He had heard what I had
been saying, and declared he would always have abundance
for me. " He would fish every day — his hooks were new and
his nets freshly mended ; if his cocoa-nuts were thinned, his
friends had plenty, and they must yield them to me, or he
would return to Matunga and let them meet the Tepukans
alone/' I had much difficulty in appeasing his grief; but
when I assured him of my friendship and the necessity of
visiting Sararak, where my father was ill, he at last con-
sented to my departure.

The following morning, as they knew I always carried
out what I proposed, poor Turua was at my hut with
baskets of cocoa-nuts and ruchfe, Ocura having cooked
them after dark for the journey. As our little party
wound its way, single file, by the narrow path through the
village, Turua and Ocura bringing up the rear, the parting
salutation was shouted from many a distant hut, " Ahana!

312 MY TRAVELLING COSTUME.

Tanic Mano, ahana V while the more friendly ran to offer
the " shungae," or parting-kiss. I led the way, spear in
hand, axe, sword, and pistol slung around me, as usual on
my travelling excursions. My hair was now yery long,
my beard thick and bushy. My trousers were in a rery
dilapidated condition, only kept together by the help of
my fish-bone needle and bark thread, but in so coarse a
fashion that I was fain' to wear my nondescript coloured
shirt over them as a tunic. My costume, howerer, was
greatly admired by these people, whatever might have been
thought of it by those who were accustomed to garments
of a more civilized fashion.

At the entrance to the Great Mukatea, which separated us
from Mutagohichfe, our friends had to stop, as they dared not
enter the neutral ground, where ambushed foes might sur-
prise them from rock or hara brake, as they had done only
a few weeks before, when they had speared one of two young
Omukans who were on a scouting expedition, and had ven-
tured too near the enemy's lines.

On the sand of the beach, under the shade of a large
pandanas, we seated ourselves, and opening the well-lined
baskets, partook of our morning meal. We invited Turua
to join us, forgetting that, by the laws of the country, my
father could not eat of the food he had given to me, or that
I had touched. However, he climbed a neighbouring tree,
and joined us in our breakfast, though he partook of it more
frugally than we did. Our meal over, we at last parted with
the kind-hearted, noble Turua, whose team flowed un-
restrainedly, and whose farewell "shara shara" we heard
echoing from the beach as long as we were within sight
or hearing.

We had gone half through the Mutagohiche territory,
having passed many tenantleas huts, before we were observed,
as, since the murder of the young Omukan, these people,

A POLITICAL SCHEME. 313

fearing an attack, had concentrated themselves at the farther
end of the island. They knew well that I disliked them ;
and as there was not much love lost, I resolved to pass
through without waiting. Besides, Joe and Frankfe were
among them — a fact which did not offer a further induce-
ment for tarrying. However, as the people knew the
influence I possessed with their neighbours and old
allies of Sararak, with whom they had just had an un-
pleasant disagreement, they were most anxious to con-
ciliate me with offers of hospitality; and as I was tired
and foot-sore, and it was getting late for crossing the
reef to Sararak, where they would be anxious to give me a
formal reception, I accepted the invitation to remain till
morning.

By daylight, without any leave-taking, we started on our
journey across the reef. It had long been a scheme of mine
to unite the whole of the western islands, the most northerly
and southerly of these being my best friends ; but this
Mutagohichfe was a barrier. The two extremes, Matunga
and Sararak, were on much more friendly terms ; but whilst
the latter was an ally of Mutagohichfe, Omuka could not be
conciliated. It was, therefore, to subdue the people of
Mutagohichfe that I had instigated the last war against
them. I had intended to have them obliterated as a nation,
and attached to Omuka, but the recent threat by the
Omukans to ship us all in canoes from the islands made
me hesitate about increasing their strength.

As my hopes of escape lessened I began to take a greater
interest in the affairs of a people amongst whom I might
have to spend the remainder of my life ; and it was only
natural I should use the influence I possessed to my own
advantage. With Franke, however, espousing the cause of
Mutagohiche, and Joe that of Tepuka, I had little hope of
carrying out my original scheme; and the recent saucy acts

814 MY POSITION AS A " STATESMAN."

of the Omukans induced me to change mypolitics in respec t
to uniting all the Leeward Islands. I therefore, daring my
lengthened and silent journey across the reef, determined, if
possible, to have Mutagohichfe given up to Omuka, but, on
the other hand, get Sararak to unite with Tepuka.

Strange as my talk of overturning kingdoms and forming
alliances may seem, it is to be remembered that I was certainly
the greatest statesman of this little world, and such schemes
were the only rational occupation for my mind. These
simple people could be more easily moulded to the educated
will than a more enlightened community. Even amongst
them, however, events continually occurred to frustrate
my plans for entire control — which, to be candid, I
aimed at, and most probably, as matters tended, would have
achieved, had I remained a little longer amongst them.

The leading men of Matunga, Sararak, and Tautua were
all subservient to my will; Omuka was most friendly;
the Tepukans, since the death of Mahauta, were divided,
but by my alliance with Haka Futa, I had now the most
influential chiefs on my side. Tokerau and the northern
islands were influenced by Matunga, and the southern by
Tepuka. Such was my political position with the natives
at this moment. The remainder of our ship's company,
excepting Franke and Joe, and perhaps one of the Tahitians,
were also favourable to me.

So deeply was I engrossed with these reflections that I had
entered to the waist the deep channel which it was necessary
to cross before I could land on the little islet of Hangary,
when a scream behind reminded me of my amiable spouse,
whom I had most ungallantly forgotten. She had popped into
the channel nearly overhead, preserving, however, the baskets
of provender, but at the sacrifice of the tiche. I hastened to
the rescue, and carried the provisions safe to land; but .the
" beautiful" tichfe, in which she was to present herself before

THE PEHU. 815

my friends of Sararak, no longer descended in a graceful fall,
but hung around her like a dripping " rau-rau." We had to
call a halt whilst she retired to a remote part of the island to
dry this elegant garment in the sun ; meanwhile I entertained
myself by " prospecting " among the provision baskets.

We bad scarcely resumed our journey when the familiar
" thump, thump" of cocoa-nuts on the ground informed me
that my retired territory was invaded, and, in native fashion,
I gave the alarm : " Taka oatche & kai kai a !" (" Hallo,
rascals ! robbers there I") A familiar voice aloft responded :
" Card to kai Tanie Mano ; no te taina na o£. Aoafe ?" (" It
is no thief, Tanie Mano, it is your brother : how are you?") ;
and rapidly descending the tree, Mahauta expressed the
greatest joy at my return.

As we crossed the narrow passage dividing us from the
main land of Sararak, we were perceived by several natives,
who, as if to announce my arrival, shouted my name in a
loud voice. When we landed, we were astonished to see the
people flying before us, as if they feared we were infected
with the plague ; the men at the same time, adjusting the
bone tops of their spears. On reaching O Pai Tangata's
house we found it deserted, and the boys informed me we
must go down to Mangerongaro, as the pehu was to be
performed at the council-house, where O Pai Tangata pre-
sided since the death of Opaka, he being now the Iriki Nufc,
or Great King. As I proceeded to the pehu I passed several
houses of old friends, most of which were vacant when I
reached them ; but, in some cases, I saw the inmates hastily
flying before me, instead of offering the welcome with which,
on ordinary occasions, I was received.

At the council-house I found not only the whole of Sararak
assembled, but also the people of Haka Shusha. Having
taken my seat on the appointed mat, the usual ceremonies —
cutting, bleeding, singing, screaming — were performed. The

816 LUDICROUS SCENE.

subsequent capa dance had a more imposing character than
I had before witnessed. The masses of rank weeds under the
dense growth of palms had been cleared away, thus opening
up a vista towards the blue waters of the lagoon. A number
of huge rugged stumps of the pandanas, with their straggling
roots, were ranged on one side of the avenue, supporting in
terraced rows two lines of stems or branches of the same
tree, which served as rude seats. Here were ranged the men
of the nation, all decorated with festoons of leaves hanging
scarf-like across the shoulder, while in each hand they held
a small green branch from the palm-tree. The chiefs
had also long belts, plaited at the waist, hanging down
in fringe to the knee. This part of their dress was made
from bark of a light colour, and on their swarthy bodies
looked well. Their heads were bound with many folds of
broad sinnet. Each carried a long wand with a loop at the
end, to keep the performers in straight lines, which was done
by placing the wand along the rank, holding in check those
who were too forward, or throwing the noose over the heads
of the more retiring, to bring them up to the line.

The scene was at once imposing and ludicrous. When, for
example, in the twilight of the grove, the warriors had taken
their elevated seats, each with a melancholy motion waving his
palm-branch in time to the low chant commenced by the
women, who were seated in corresponding rows before them,
and the chiefs stood at intervals in the open space with upraised
wands, while the young people were grouped, with wondering
and awe-struck eyes, around the holy precincts, the spectacle
was most imposing ; but when the rage of the chiefs broke
forth at certain men who had mistaken their positions, the
recriminations and blows with which they pursued the de-
linquents produced a most absurd effect. All, however,
was arranged at last, and the whole ceremony went off well.
A grand feast followed, in which, having fasted since morn-

THEATRICAL REPRESENTATION. 817

ing, I heartily joined ; and so the first day terminated, for
our festivities were not yet concluded.

The next morning we were invited in a mysterious
manner to accompany the family to another grand meeting
in Mangerongaro. On our way we were joined by several
groups, and as they were all talking about the ship, I sup-
posed that some more of the wreck had been washed ashore.
On approaching the scene of our sad catastrophe, I saw a
number of the natives occupied in erecting a platform, which
I was informed was intended to represent our ship, the wreck
of which was to be enacted in several scenes. As I had
never heard of any such entertainment amongst the natives,
I awaited the performance with much interest. I even as-
sisted them a little in rigging the vessel, as their ideas on
this point were rather imperfect.

When all was completed, and lots of provisions had been
put on board, a dozen fellows mounted aloft, one of them
having borrowed my sword to represent me, and the tallest
native undertaking the character of Dr. It. A wonderful
noise was kept up on board the supposed craft, no doubt to
give some idea of working the ship, as no amount of work
is done here without much shouting. A woman then stole
quietly towards the beach with a pit ce of puro (cocoa-nut
husk) in her hand — with what object those who have resided
on theselslands will understand ; but on reaching the sea she
dropped the puro, and running hastily back, approached some
men feigning sleep, to whom she communicated her fears in
pantomime, pointing towards the sea. The men then jump-
ing up, rushed to their spears, and mustering together, lurked
about the precincts of their cover till they were alarmed by
the shouts and the waving of weapons of those on the
platform, whom, with a formidable yell, they immediately at-
tacked. Those below endeavoured earnestly to mount the
platform, one of them flourishing the sword in a manner

318 franke's vanttt wounded.

equally dangerous to friends and foes. Eventually a boarding
was effected, and the provisions were carried off. During
the performance a number of boys frequently passed me on
all-fours, making a noise something like that of dogs. On
the return of the men these youths scampered off
amongst the woods, pursued by the men with their spears,
who, pretending alarm when the boys turned and shouted
"Bow-wow!" fled in their turn. The actors themselves
were so amused that they could scarcely play their parts,
and on the conclusion of their performance they all sat down
in the highest good humour to partake of our " dejeuner satu
fourchette."

The following day the appearance of Juan with my boat
afforded excuse for an additional feast. The cocoa-nuts being
abundant since the masanga, great quantities were consumed,
and orora flowed in every hut. My boat was carried to the
recently-erected platform, where it was decorated with green
boughs, and a feast given in honour of its completion was
accompanied with the usual ceremonies.

These little attentions to me so wounded the self-esteem
of Frankfe, that he took his departure for M utagohichd. The
evening before he left, however, he told the natives that
they were foolish in offering honours to me, as the white
men thought nothing of me, any of them being quite as able
to protect them as I was.

The night after his departure I overheard a good deal of
altercation amongst some of my friends in reference to
Pranke's depreciation of me. As I was determined at all
hazards to maintain my influence, it would have been a
folly to allow this matter to pass without taking some
notice of it. I therefore told my friends that Frankfe was a
very brave man indeed, and that I was going to perform a
salutation he had demanded, and would start for Mutagohichfe
before daybreak the following morning.

SUBMISSION OF THE BRAGGART. 319

My march across the reef, during which my feet were
pierced with the miiiute unicorn-shell and the prickly coral,
did not improve my temper. On my arriving at the oppo-
site shore, several of the islanders, who, with their habitual
keen observation, had noticed my approach and awaited my
landing, saw at once that something was wrong, and anxiously
inquired what was the matter. I gave them no reply, which
so inflamed their curiosity, that before I had reached Frankfe's
quarters the greater part of the inhabitants had assembled
around me, which was just what I desired.

I found Franks seated at breakfast in his hut, and sur-
rounded by his more intimate friends. Appearing directly in
front of him, I called on him in Kanaka to come outside and
answer for his insolence. This he declined to do, and, turn-
ing as pale as his shirt, declared he had never said the words
I charged him with, assuring me, moreover, of his willing-
ness on all occasions to obey my commands. As his answers
were in English, I took care to translate them in a loud voice
to the natives. The many friends his absurd boasting had
attached to him were amazed to see him so submissive in my
presence, and were now satisfied that he was a mere braggart,
while I resumed the high position I had originally held in
their opinion.

I next hastened to Joe's quarters, in another part of the
island. He also denied having used offensive words, and
although I knew that he had, I was satisfied with his dis-
claimer. After calling on Juan and Harry, who resided in
this neighbourhood, I returned to the cottage of a friend,
where breakfast was waiting. Whilst at this meal, with a
host of islanders around, whose conversation was all on the
recent events, my two friends Franke and Joe approached.
The latter was looking very wroth, and talking earnestly
to his companion, a gasconading fool, whom he was evi-
dently stirring up against me. In a blustering manner they

320 CREST-FALLEN HEROES.

approached the spot where I sat, feeling rather uncomfortable,
for had they attacked me then they would have taken me at
a great disadvantage ; but I addressed them in an uncon-
cerned way, as if our differences had been all arranged. This
disconcerted them a little at first, but Joe soon resumed his
usual audacity, and in a bullying tone said he wanted to
know what brought me over to talk to them in the way I
had done that morning before the natives. I said that I had
already told them, and was glad that they had not only dis-
avowed all intention of insult, but had expressed feelings
of friendship. Seeing that these two were bent on re-
venge for the humiliation I had brought on them, I was glad
when, on looking through the grove, I saw Juan and Harry
approaching, knowing that when my faithful allies came up
I should have sufficient support ; and I said to Joe, who was
spokesman, that as soon as I had done my breakfast I would
talk to him. He insisted, however, on an immediate ex*
planation. I requested them to wait only a few moments,
which they very unwillingly did. Meanwhile Harry and
Juan pushed their way through the crowd which the loud
and angry voice of Joe was rapidly bringing around us, and
as the pleasant sound of Juan's carracko broke on my ear,
inquiring, (t What is all de row, signor?" I pitched the re-
mainder of my breakfast aside, and springing to my feet,
exclaimed, " Now, Joe, I am ready to give you any explana-
tion you may require. 1 ' Never was seen a pair of more
crest-fallen heroes 1 After some paltry excuses, they retired
in confusion. There was, besides, further help at hand than
I had calculated on; for some of my friends of Sararak,
suspecting the correct cause of my early exit, and fearing
a quarrel, had followed me, to render assistance, if ne-
cessary.

For a short period I had a tranquil life in Mangerongaro,
we having made an alliance with Tepuka, which, for a time at

LANDING OF THE TBPUKANS. 821

least, prevented danger from that quarter, and strengthened
Sararak sufficiently to intimidate her foes to the north.
Nothing could exceed the kindness of the natives to me at
this period. In consequence of my conduct during the epi-
demic, they had endowed me with supernatural powers;
whilst a little firmness in some cases of difficulty made
them imagine me a prodigy of valour. As I was always
kindly with the women and children, I had a powerful ally
in the sex, Heaven bless them ! who rarely omitted sending
me contributions of fish or pashus when they were aware
that our house was deficient in these agreeable commodities.
As for Haka Puta, she, having plenty to eat and nothing to do,
was quite enraptured with the place, and her lively manner,
her wonderful stories from Shakspeare, &c., in addition to her
general intelligence, made her a universal favourite.

I was becoming anxious to return to Matunga, when we
were one day thrown into a state of alarm by the appearance
of the entire Tepukan fleet. There was an immediate rush
to arms ; and the beach was soon crowded at the point to
which the canoes were heading. On their approach within
speaking distance, however, they drew up abreast, and, in
long complimentary orations, declared their friendly feeling ;
claiming our hospitality, and asking where they were to
disembark and encamp.

The whole Tepukan nation, and some of their dependencies,
men, women, and children, had come like a pack of
hungry wolves, from their own exhausted shores to the
more abundant ones of Sararak. However, it was too
late now to oppose their landing, and, indeed, it would
would have been dangerous at the present moment to ^
quarrel with them. But we took the precaution of
placing their encampment in Haku Shusha, itself rather
barren, and interposing the desolate rocky Mukatea of that
district between them and us. Here, before night set in,

T

322 FESTIVITIES.

they had already raised up a complete village with the ready
materials which the cocoa-nut houghs afforded.

On the other hand, we were equally busy in Mange-
rongaro, for' the Sararak warriors were uncomfortable at
the close proximity of their ancient foes, evincing the Utile
faith they had in their sincerity. The men remained
under arms, and the women secreted any articles of extra
value.

During upwards of a week that these people honoured us
with their presence they were feasted regally. Cocoa-nuts,
in all their various forms, were prepared for them ; orora was
as common as sea-water. They were entertained also with
capas and pehus, and the more novel entertainment of the
theatrical performance, " The new and amusing pantomime
of the brig Chatham? to the infinite delight of a crowded
and highly enthusiastic audience.

While these festivities were going on I received a press-
ing message from my Matunga friends to return immediately,
as they wished for my advice on some matters of vital im-
portance to the state. I accordingly set off, greatly to the
chagrin of poor Haka Puta, who would rather have stayed
where she was. She soon recovered her spirits, how-
ever, and her lively prattle beguiled the way till we had
reached the farther point of Omuka, where I found my
Matunga friends encamped. As I approached the beach the
Omukan tribes crowded to the spot ; and I was soon sur-
rounded by them, their anxious inquiries showing how much
interest had been excited relative to the Tepukan visit to
Mangerongaro, and the proposed alliance, which alarmed
them greatly. When I told them that the visit the Tepu-
* kans meant to pay us was entirely a friendly one, they pro-
tested against their being allowed to land on their shores
except as deadly enemies. At the same time, they took the
precaution of sending for the few Matungans who were still

MISSION TO THE TEPUKANS. 323

on that island ; and compelled some Ruahara young men,
then at Matunga, to remain, in order to strengthen their
ranks.

A short time after my arrival we heard that the Tepukan
fleet had gone into Mutagohichfe, but unaccompanied by
their new allies of Sararak, which gave great relief to the
minds of the Omukans, who now seemed to regard -
the purposed visit with less aversion. When, subse-
quently, we received a deputation — of women, of course —
requesting that they might be allowed to sojourn a few days
on our shores, it was agreed that I should go down and
invite them. , The following morning, therefore, I got my
boat under way, and proceeded to Mutagohiche, where my
mission to the Tepukans was soon arranged, much to their
satisfaction. I was most hospitably entertained by the
latter; and it was nearly sunset when I again started for
Omuka, not having had time to see any of the white men,
who had all followed the steps of the Tepukans in their
present journey, to share in the festivities attending it.
Already the shade of the short twilight had set in, and I
had passed the last hut on my way back when, as I was
about to enter the solitary desert of the Mukatea, I heard a
rapid step behind, and, looking round, beheld Harry hurry-
ing towards me.

" Well, Harry," said I, " what is the matter? Anything
wrong in Mutagohichfe ?"

" Oh no, sir/' he replied. t€ I merely heard that you had
started alone for Omuka, and as there are so many strangers
about, and these Tepukans are bad fellows, I thought it
would be advisable to accompany you/'

I assured him of my entire want of fear on this head,
and requested him to return; but he insisted on accom-
panying me to the end of my journey. A mile or two
farther brought us into the heart of the gloomy Mukatea;

y 2

824 STRANGE CONDUCT OF JOE ASD FRANK&

where huge boulders, promiscuously heaped together into
fantastic groups, and the hara weed, occasionally rising in
tall clumps, afford ample shelter for lurking foes. Secure,
however, as I felt myself in the friendship of the natives, I
never dreamed of danger; but Harry, with more prudence,
kept a sharp look-out ahead.

The sun was just' dipping into the crimson wave when
Harry, suddenly starting back, said he saw some one like
Joe, he thought. We watched intently the pile of rocks
where the figure had disappeared, and I soon saw Franke
skulking behind it. Immediately after, both Franke and
Joe emerged from concealment, and, passing rapidly in-
land, partially hidden by such cover as the place afforded,
were soon lost to our view. Harry shook his head ominously,
putting the worst construction on their appearance; and
from the bad feeling with which these men regarded me, I
have little doubt that had I been alone and unarmed I should
have found myself in a critical position. However, we pro-
ceeded on our journey without farther incident, and arrived
in safety at our destination.

The Tepukans, assured by me of safety during their stay,
had landed and drawn up their canoes on the beach, leaving
them, as a measure of precaution, only a short distance from
the sea, raising a breastwork for their protection, and keep-
ing afloat their largest war canoe, with a strong body of men
in it, to protect the shore party in case of danger till they
got their other canoes launched, arrangements which showed
more skill in warfare than I had given them credit for.

I had just returned to my own hut, after an inspec-
tion of the Tepukan encampment, when a crowd of Omukans
came running to inform me that my boat had been smashed
on the beach, and rendered entirely useless. Making every
allowance for the exaggerations that the natives were ad-
dicted to, I was truly chagrined at the news, as there was so

THE BOAT DAMAGED AND REPAIRED. 325

little of the wreck left about the islands that I might find it
difficult to mend even a slight damage. On arriving at the
spot, I cannot express the distress I felt on finding the gun-
wale and upper plank of the starboard side broken, and
several holes, as with a native spear or some roughly-pointed
instrument, pierced in the lower plank, which I knew no
native would have attempted. Joe and Frankb I had no
doubt were the culprits. However, as I had no proof, I
could not charge them with it, and merely contented myself
with assuring those who had followed me that I was certain
it had not been done by the Tepukans, against whom such a
charge would have been hailed with delight, as affording a
pretext for an attack. There was no help now but to repair
the damage, if practicable, and this I could only ascertain by
daylight. With some weeds and cocoa-nut husk I plugged
up the holes, and, placing the canoe on the shoal water of
the reef, found that she floated without much leakage. I
accordingly pushed her out, and pulled her to a point near
the settlement where the reef, terminating abruptly, fringes
the deep bay, at the end of which is the landing-place. The
boat had leaked so little that I thought she would be safe
enough to carry me the required distance, and, taking my
seat, I set off lustily for the shore side. Whether the strain-
ing or the deeper draught displaced the caulking I cannot
tell, but suddenly the water poured in and away she went
beneath me. I had no alternative, therefore, but to swim
ashore, in doing which, I must confess, I felt very uneasy, for
I had heard that sharks and alligators were in the neighbour-
hood. Striking out, however, for the beach, I soon reached
it, and, proceeding to my own house, sent a native for the
boat and turned in to sleep soundly after my fatigue. The
next morning I was suddenly awakened by a rude shake and
the voice of Haka Puta, who, in great excitement, begged
me to save her father, who was in the Tepukan camp, which,

326 ATTACK ON THE TEPUKANS.

as I could hear by the yells that reached me, the savages
were now attacking.

Hurriedly seizing my sword and pistol, I ran in the first
place to the camping ground of the Matungans, which I found
deserted) save by two or three women, from whom I indis-
tinctly learned the cause of the quarrel. It appeared that
when my friends discovered the boat was smashed they were
determined to have revenge on the Tepukans, whom they
accused of the act. A rush was accordingly made on them
from all points, but these brave people, already on the alert,
presented so bold a front behind their breastwork of canoes,
that their assailants hesitated about making a general attack.
A strong body jumped into the water, however, and boarded
the large war-canoe afloat. The guards, taken by surprise,
fled to join their friends, now in a worse position on shore.
The Matungans, emboldened by the capture of the canoe,
were preparing for other exploits, when I came rushing down
between the combatants.

For a time I called in vain on the Matungans and Omukans
to retire. But when at last I told them that I had guaran-
teed the Tepukans safe conduct in their land, they replied
that the Tepukans had smashed my boat, an act for which
they desired to have revenge, and told me to stand aside, for
nothing should prevent their punishing them at once. I re *
minded them that it was by their own council I had been
requested to invite the Tepukans to their shores, on their
assurance of safety while sojourning amongst them, and if
the treaty were not carried out to the letter I would do my
utmost to restrain them. They, on the other hand, insisted
that it was the Tepukans who had broken the treaty by the
wanton attack on my boat, which they had destroyed,
and they did not understand how I had shown no desire
to retaliate. I assured them it was not the Tepukans
who had broken my boat; but, notwithstanding my strong sua*

QUARREL WITH JOE AND FRANK& 327

picions, I dared not charge the commission of the outrage in
what I felt convinced was the proper quarter, as I had no
positive proof to support my accusation.

At this juncture Joe and Frankfe, with old Bill, whom they
had recently gained over to their faction, came pushing
through the crowd that had gradually assembled round me
in dispute, the rest of our crew being by my side. Joe, in a
swaggering manner, charged me with raising quarrels among
the natives on my own account, and, appealing to the other
whites, asked them if it was right that I should endanger all
their lives for my private disputes, adding that if such a
course were persisted in I should have them all massacred
some morning. At the conclusion of his harangue, I stepped
forward to him quietly, but with a manner that showed I was
in earnest, and said, " If, before the sun of this day sets, I can
discover who broke my boat — and I have already my suspi-
cions of the right man — he shall swing from the boughs of
the tree under which we are standing. This is no idle threat ;
you well know it was not I who provoked this quarrel; I am
here now to appease one that these people have taken up
voluntarily for my sake, and I have succeeded for the pre-
sent. You have seen my influence over them. They are in-
dignant at the injury perpetrated against me, and if I only
find sufficient evidence to prove the guilt of the real culprit,
I shall give the ruffian up to their just retribution."

Joe and his companions, on hearing this, somewhat modified
their bullying attitudes, and, muttering indistinct threats,
slunk from the assemblage with a less confident air than they
had exhibited when they entered. Joe himself immediately
departed from Omuka, to which he never returned as a resi-
dent during the remainder of my sojourn in the islands.

Much as I might boast of my influence with the natives,
I had great difficulty in getting them to resign to the
Tepukans the splendid ijew canoe which they had seized]

328 ocura's jealousy.

and it required all the arguments of my Matnnga friends to
assist me in accomplishing this object.

All this time the Tepnkans lay behind their cover, prepared
for an attack. They had succeeded in getting one canoe
launched, into which they had bundled some of the oldest men.

It was finally arranged that the canoe should be restored
on condition that the Tepnkans returned by the same route
as that by which they had arrived, and that they should not
visit the friendly powers of Omuka to the north — conditions
which they strictly fulfilled, more, however, through fear
than honesty.

We proceeded on our course, and while we paddled leisurely
along the fringe of the reef my companions informed me that
Turua and Ocura had had so serious a quarrel that they were
separated, and had not spoken for several days — a state of
affairs of which both were, doubtless, by this time tired.
Having more influence over them than any one else, it was
hoped that I would act as mediator between them — an office
which was now frequently imposed upon me.

On landing, I proceeded immediately to Ocura's residence,
where she sat in a woful plight. On seeing me she at once
commenced a tirade against Turua, interrupted at intervals
by bursts of crying and indistinct threats, from which I
gathered that jealousy was at the root of the matter. She de-
clared her intention of never speaking to him again, and it was
with some difficulty I succeeded in appeasing her anger.

One night I was suddenly roused from my sleep by the news
that the Tepnkans were again making a descent on us ; and
the messenger urged my immediate presence on the beach.
I was soon on the strand, where I found the population
rapidly assembling. By the starlight we could see several
black objects out on the lagoon, which we soon made out to
be a fleet of well-manned canoes. In silence we placed our-
selves in ambush to watch the proceedings of our supposed

A BRIDE FOB PAINTJjL 329

invaders. When the canoes grounded some distance from
the shore, and their crews jumped out to pull them inland,
our people, shouting the well-known cry, "Taka oatchfe,
kaia !" dashed into the water. The strangers, in the great-
est consternation, cried out, " No, Ruahara an 1" assuring
us that they were our friends of Ruahara; and when we
found that such was really the case, we received them with a
friendly welcome. I must confess I felt rather disappointed
that I had not the satisfaction of fighting the Tepukans,
against whom I had conceived a kind of national antipathy.
Amongst these visitors was a fine young girl, whom I
had seen some months before, on my first visit to Ruahara.
It struck me she would make a capital wife for Painufc,
to whom I at once proposed the matter, extolling her in
such glowing terms that he finally agreed, provided I could
gain her consent. Retiring, accordingly, with the dark-
skinned beauty into the deeper shade of the grove, I told
her, after a little flattery, that so fine a girl should be the
bride only of a white man — a proposal to which she
listened complacently till I informed her for whom I in-
tended her; when she started from me in great indignation,
having been, as I afterwards learned, under the persuasion
that I was paying court to her on my own account. As
Painufe, however, was a much finer looking fellow than I, it
took only a little coaxing, and a further supply of flattery, to
bring her into pleasant temper again, and to draw from her
a partial consent. Meanwhile, Haka Puta, who had been
down to the strangers, passed near the spot where we sat
in confidential chat. I called her towards us, but she
proceeded as if she had not heard, evidently in no pleasant
mood, for she assumed as much dignity in her carriage as her
little dumpy form would admit of.

After a short visit to the beach I returned to my house.
On approaching that usually tranquil spot I was alarmed

330 A DESPEBATB FIGHT.

to hear screams ; and running to the place from whence the
sounds proceeded I saw Haka Puta engaged in mortal combat
with my new friend the proposed spouse of Painue. I
confess I was wicked enough to remain concealed at a short
distance from the scene of battle to observe the issue ; the
more satisfied to do so as my wife, though much the
smaller, had a decided advantage. Haka Puta was a
perfect little fiend in the attack. With one hand twisted
through the long hair of her supposed rival she drew her head
into " chancery/' and dealt repeated blows with such effect
that the poor young stranger screamed in agony, and vainly
tried to extricate herself. I was soon obliged to come to
her relief, and had some difficulty in getting the little tiger
off her. In vain I pressed Haka Puta for an explanation ;
all I could get from her was an occasional " Haka ma cofe,
haka ma !" (" For shame you, for shame !") Being per-
fectly unconscious at the moment of anything to be ashamed
of, I turned to the other (who was bathing her swollen face
at a safe distance) for enlightenment. She was as much at
a loss as myself, but informed me that, seeing there was a
fire at my place, she had come to ask Haka Puta for a
lighted brand, and that, after her request had been granted,
she was stooping to lift it, when my worthy spouse pounced
upon her in uncontrollable fury, the cause of which she was
quite ignorant of.

This put a stop to my diplomatic marriage, for the young
girl hastened the departure of her people before I could
bring it to a conclusion; Painufe shortly afterwards re-
turning to Omuka and his ill-tempered wife. From Haka
Puta herself I soon learned the cause of the quarrel, which
was merely another fit of jealousy ; and although I got Painue
to corroborate my story, I believe she still suspected that I
had been making love on my own account more than on his
when she passed us.

331

CHAPTER XII.

The Beacon Fire — Appearance of the Tepukans — Hostility of the
TepukaDs — Measures taken to guard against it — My Mission to
Tepuka — Halt at Tautua — Proposed Castle — Head-quarters at
Matunga — On the Look-out for a Ship — A Sail in Sight—
Refusal of the Natives to assist me— Reported Escape of
White Men — Disappointment of my Hopes — A Stormy Night
— Formation of a Canoe — Miserable Tools — Involved in Native
Quarrels — Joe's Malicious Proceedings — Defeat of the Tepukans
— Completion and Launch of my Canoe — Her First Day at
Sea — Appearance of a Ship — Determination at all hazards to
effect my Escape — Exciting Adventure on board the John
Jppleton of New Bedford — My Appearance — The Vessel at-
tacked by the Matungans — Grief of the Natives at my De-
parture — Curious Taste of my two Native Followers — Aticu —
Patriotism — The Cone of Rorotonga — The Central Missionary
' Station — Conclusion.

THE following day the Ruaharans took their departure,
and on that occasion a more disagreeable incident oc-
curred than the female fight. Frankfe, who had been for a
short time resident in Mutagohiche, had now returned to
Matunga with a new wife. He was accompanied by a
friend, whom, during his absence in Mutagohiche, he had
assisted in abducting the wife of a native of the island —
an act of friendship that met with a proper return, for
whilst he was down at the beach with the rest of the people
he missed his own wife, as well as him whom he called his
particular friend, from the crowd. He hastened at once to
the house of the latter, and observing all the sides let down,
quietly lifted up one, and was about to enter when the

382 fraxk£'s escape from matunga.

missing couple dashed out at the other. Franks gave chase
to the woman in the first place, and, knocking her down,
most ungallantly beat her till she was insensible. Goaded
by the jeers of his savage companions, he then made an
attack on his quondam friend, and drove him into the woods.
The latter, on being joined there by some of his tribe, de-
clared his intention of murdering Frankfe that night.

Since the time when the boat — which, by the way, I had
succeeded in mending — was injured, I had held little or no
intercourse with Frankfc, though he always positively denied
having had anything to do with that outrage. Yet, on this
occasion, he came up in a state of terror to my house, and
informed me that the natives intended to attack him in the
night It would only have served him right to let them
do as they pleased with him; but as it was no part
of my policy to allow a white man to be killed by the
islanders, I consented to stand by him, and went to
his house for the night, this, he acknowledged, being
.a sufficient protection. No sooner, however, was he
out of danger than he denied having had any occasion
for my assistance. The following day he made his
escape from Matunga, taking Bill with him. Both joined
Joe in Tepuka, where they conjointly vowed vengeance
against the Leeward Islands, and Matunga in particular.
The terror they had been placed in on their former visit kept
them at a respectful distance ; but they made a number of
spears, and put together, or reconstructed, some large canoes.
As this was considered the sign of a hostile movement
against some one of the islands, the sounds of warlike pre-
paration were heard in every quarter. Our people again
betook themselves to Omuka to concentrate their forces ;
whilst I was left in charge of the island. I kept guards all
along the beach, but when I went round at night I generally
found them asleep.

THE RUAHABA BELLS. 333

In order to learn how far the reports were true, I resolved
myself to pay some of the other islands a visit. Besides,
Haka Puta was anxious to revisit her friends, and I had
therefore a double reason for the trip. As some of our people
were at the same time leaving for Ruahara I determined to
accompany them. We accordingly crossed the channel to
Tokerau, and then proceeded on foot.

On entering a barren tract of one of the Ruaharan
islands, two natives of our party, considerably ahead of the
rest, suddenly stopped, and panting with fear, hastened back
to report that they had seen footprints on the sand, no doubt
those of Tepukans, who were lying in wait to surprise us.
So great was their fear that they would have returned, though
near the end of their journey, had I not prevented them.

On reaching a hamlet, we kept aloof from the houses,
that we might not be delayed in our progress by the
endless questions of the people. In passing the principal
house of the place, however, we were observed, and, hearing
my name called repeatedly, I stopped a little, and was sur-
prised at Haka Puta's urgent and imperative demands for
me to proceed. I, nevertheless, not only stopped, but ordered
her to do the same, when, regardless of my commands, she
started off at full speed, throwing down her baskets of pro-
visions to accelerate her flight. Her unaccountable conduct
was soon explained by the appearance of the tall and graceful
Ruahara belle, who came bounding through the brushwood
towards me. This was the young girl who had caused Haka
Puta so much jealousy when I sued her as a bride for Painuk
After the usual salutation of these island beauties, she begged
me to come to her house and await the return of her family
from a fishing excursion ; but, dreading the wrath of a jealous
wife, already sufficiently provoked, I had to bid her a hurried
adieu, and hasten after my party, whom I found seated at the
margin of a little lake. Haka Puta kept sullenly apart, and,

834 MISSION TO TEPUKA.

on my presenting myself, assailed me with a shower of vitu-
perative abuse. I found it impossible to persuade her that
the recent meeting had not been preconcerted, she persist-
ing in the declaration that this had been my only object in
the journey.

It was late at night when our party arrived at the straits
that separated us from the Tautuan shores. In vain we
lighted a large fire and waved flaming branches for a canoe ;
the people of the opposite village were either asleep or feared
an enemy. Cutting, therefore, a few palm branches as a
partial shelter from the sea-breeze, we stretched ourselves
on the sandy beach, and, after our fatiguing march, slept
soundly till morning, when one of our party swam the
passage to inform our friends of our presence, and we had
soon the satisfaction of seeing a canoe push off towards our
shore.

Our return of course produced the greatest excitement and
joy, evinced by the quantities of fish and cocoa-nuts presented
to us. A week passed rapidly and pleasantly, and I had
almost forgotten my mission to Tepuka, when one of the
late Mahauta Nu&'s wives and his lovely little daughter
presented themselves and urged me to go with them.
In selecting a deputation, the Tepukans could not have
made a happier choice to propitiate me, as the woman was
amiable, and the child, who was much attached to me,
lovely and gentle. With these companions and Haka Futa,
who had now completely recovered her temper, I started the
following morning, and arrived at Tepuka about mid-day.
We passed on to my usual residence at the house of Tah&,
followed by crowds of the people, whom I at once charged
with their intended invasion of Matunga. All the leading
men assured me of their disapprobation of any attempt on
that island as long as it was my home, asserting that the
report of the attack had originated in the idle talk of some of

PREPARATIONS FOR WAR. 335

their young men. On the following day, however, in passing
through that quarter of the island inhabited by Joe, I found the
people by no means so anxious to hide their real sentiments,
some of them actually avowing their desire to visit Matunga,
particularly when Joe made his appearance. That gentle-
man, too, informed me of his intention of joining them in
their descent on us as soon as they had prepared a large war-
canoe, on which I had seen them at work, and their stock of
spears was made up.

Thus the evil I had so long laboured to prevent, the
mingling of white men in the quarrels of the natives, must
inevitably occur ; in which case the hostilities were likely to
become of a more dangerous character, most probably,
if we remained much longer on the group, ending in the
destruction of all our party. However, the contest could
not be avoided, for concession to a man like this would only
make things worse. In a few days, therefore, I left the
Tepukans, resolved not to return till their pride had been
humbled; for, notwithstanding their discomfiture on their
last visit to Omuka, the alliance they had formed at Mutago-
hichfe, and the friendly terms on which they now were with
Sararak, made them too confident in their bearing to-
wards us.

On my way back I stayed a short time at Tautua, where I
received from Haka Puta's connexions reliable assurances
that they would not join the Tepukans in any attack on us.
I visited also Buahara and Tokerau, and told the natives
that Tepuka was arming for an attack, and that they must
be prepared with all their young men to assist us, to which
they willingly acceded. On my return home with the news
of the preparations for war there was great excitement,
and they lost no time in providing themselves with arms.
The straightest palms were selected for destruction, and,
with the help of the steel axe of the stranger, their lofty

336 MY WATCH FOB A SHIP.

tops soon came crashing to the earth. Their trunks were
then split up by the slow process of chipping with the native
tokfe along the straight, string-measured lines on the various
sides. From the rudeness of these appliances, notwithstand-
ing the greatest care, a whole tree was often destroyed with*
out producing one complete spear. Their fleet had also to
be refitted, and several canoes were taken asunder for recon-
struction ; amongst others three large war-canoes that had
not been in use since my arrival. In Mutagohiche and
Mangerongaro we heard they were equally busy, so that, if a
war took place, it was likely to be general throughout the
group.

I now made Matunga my permanent head-quarters. The
spears were completed, and the canoes were ready, before
any enemy appeared. Indeed, the threatened attack was
delayed so long that things subsided into their ordinary
monotony.

During all this time I had never ceased to keep my daily
watch for the ship that never came. It was approaching the
season when whalers from the north frequently take a voyage
through the southern latitudes to fill up with sperm oil after
their cruise amongst the regions of the bight whale, which
produces the common whale oil. A piece of land had been
apportioned to my sole use on a promontory that had an
extensive range of view to the north-west side, the best point
from which to reach a vessel, should one approach these
shores, being on the lee side of the group, where she might
heave-to with safety. Here I resolved to erect a house of
better construction than any that had been yet attempted,
and to fence in my ground. For this purpose it was neces-
sary to visit Mangerongaro for such timber from the
wreck as might still be found, most of it having been con-
sumed. On this occasion I had no difficulty in leaving the
Matungans, as my absence was only to be for a short time, and

APPEARANCE OF A' SHIP. 337

to enable me to make my permanent abode amongst them.
I intended to erect a building of sufficient height and
strength to secure it against any ordinary attack ; whilst
a breach in the reef left a way of escape open to seaward,
should it be required. Having parcelled out the ground, I
spread the sail of my little boat to the breeze, and, with the
sheet in my hand and Haka Puta holding the tiller (which
she could now manage splendidly), we were soon scudding
over the lagoon, passing so near the shores of Omuka and
Mutagohichfe, that in the former we could distinguish the
natives at their avocations, and in the latter hear the sound
of voices.

On my arrival at Mangerongaro, I found great difficulty
in collecting a sufficient quantity of the wreck. Such pieces
as I could procure were at great distances, and many of the
weightier ones in such positions amongst the rocks that they
were difficult to remove. One day, as I was staggering under
the weight of a huge plank that I had been dragging from a
distance, I heard, some way off, yet distinct enough to make
my heart bound with hope, the long wished-for words, " Te
oaka nue 1" (" The great ship !") The sound to me was a
promise of redemption. Home, lost friends, past scenes,
crowded on my mind, almost overwhelming my reason. Cast-
ing the plank from my shoulder, I rushed towards the village,
where I found the natives running to and fro in almost as great
excitement as myself, rapidly arming, to be prepared for any
emergency. In answer to my earnest inquiries, I was in-
formed that a large ship had been reported by a canoe as
having been seen passing the island of Tepuka. 1 begged
the natives to launch a canoe on the ocean side, but could
not get a man to lend a hand in transporting one across the
island from the lagoon, where they were commonly kept.
They availed themselves of every ridiculous excuse for their
passive detention of me. Suddenly, I recollected having

z

338 BITTER DISAPPOINTMEKT.

seen in Haka Shusha, near the dangerous outlet to tlie sooth,
a large canoe in such a position that I thought I might be
able to get it into the water. Half-frantic, I ran along the
now naked sands of the inner reef, regardless of the prickly
coral points and shells. When I got to the spot, a sail was
distinctly visible keeping along the coast. The sight added
fresh energy to my exertions, and, with the assistance of
some broken pandanas boughs as rollers, I succeeded in
getting the cumbrous machine into the water. Alas ! all
my toil was in vain. The canoe leaked so badly that I
could not keep her five minutes afloat; and as the ship
already stood well up to the southern end of Haka Shusha,
my labours seemed doomed to be fruitless. Some natives
approaching, I desired them to make a fire, and, having col*
lected great piles of the withered leaves of the pandanas, I
kindled them into flames, hoping to attract notice from
the vessel. I also went out on some rocks at the extreme
end of the island, and, attaching my shirt to a spear, waved
it to and fro in the expectation of its being seen by some one
onboard.

When the noble vessel came towards the point where I stood,
I shouted at the top of my voice, which, however, was lost
in the sound of the breakers. Oh 1 how my heart sank and
hope died in my breast, as I saw her glide rapidly from me.
When she had well cleared the land, she again rounded to
and stood up along the western shore towards Sararak. An
idea now flashed across my mind that some of our people re-
siding in Tepuka might have got on board, and were bringing
the ship round to Mangerongaro to my rescue. The wind
was on her quarter, and though she swept along more rapidly
than I could run, I pursued her with all the anxiety of de-
spair. The sun had already set, but the crimson sky still
showed the ship in black- relief, when, panting with fatigue,
I reached the Mangerongaro village. A canoe was just then

VARIOUS REPORTS. 339

about landing over the surf. I ran down the bank and
into the water, praying them to take me on board ; bnt«the
next moment they were all landed on the reef. On my
approach they cast their boat off into the receding wave
and the next instant it was caught in the breakers, hurled
back on the rock, and dashed to pieces. In my disappoint-
ment I called on the natives to assist me in launching
another canoe, one that since my departure had been brought
to the beach ; but they kept aloof, and even ran from me
when I approached them. One of the Tahitians, who had
arrived just then from another island, rendered me such
effective help that the canoe was actually beginning to move
towards the sea, when the natives laid hold of it and pushed
it back ; and so effectual was their opposition, that all hope
of overtaking the vessel was lost. The light from her
quarter, that for some time had flickered like a guiding
star across the wave, gradually disappeared ; and, fatigued in
mind and body, I threw myself down on the beach a prey to
grief.

Various reports soon reached me. Some said that the
vessel had hove-to off Tepukaj. that Juan, Joe, and Frankfe
had got on board there ; that Juan had requested the captain
to come to Mangerongaro for me, and that though, on the
approach of night, he had been obliged to go to sea, he would
come back in the morning. There was much that was
plausible in the story, and I became calmer as I reflected
that it was rational, however deceitful my informants might
be. The drowning man will catch at a straw to save him-
self from sinking. Nevertheless, fearing that the vessel
might lose the bearings of the island during the night, I
kept the whole coast in flames with pandanas and hara
leaves, boughs of palm, &c.

The long looked-for morn appeared at length, but no
ship 1 The day brightened and passed, the evening shades

340 KIND ATTENTIONS OF THE NATIVES.

set in, and still there was no appearance of her. As she
might have run more off in the night than she could make
tip in the day, I still kept the beacon fires bright during
another sleepless night; but the ship was gone. I now
learned that, in addition to those mentioned as having made
their escape, Paiau, our Aitutakan native, had got some of
the savages to assist him in transporting my boat across the
island, and had made his way with it to the ship. My
canoe, therefpre, which had been of such service to me,
was irretrievably lost.

This disappointment completely overwhelmed me. I be-
came so savage that the natives feared to approach me. I
lay in my house, and if any one came near I drove him
off When I slept, they stole to the entrance of my hut, and
placing food for me, would sit down at a distance, and watch
till I had taken it.

These gentle attentions at last won me partially to my
former equanimity of temper ; but my mind was still bent on
the hope of escape. By my calculation it was now the latter
end of November, and as at this time of the year I did not
know how soon another whale-ship might come in our direc-
tion, to be prepared for her was henceforth the sole object of
my existence.

Bousing myself from the lethargy of despair, I proceeded
to construct a boat of such size and weight that I should be
able to move it myself on land, and, at the same time, large
enough for safety in the event of having to put out to sea
after a vessel. For this purpose I went round the coast
in search of one of the logs of tomano wood from our cargo,
many of which had been upheaved by the heavy seas during
some violent gales.

A log which I selected as suitable for my purpose had
been thrown by a storm one night far up on the beach
amongst some rocks, whence my unaided strength could not

CONSTRUCTION OF A CANOE. 341

remove it. I therefore sought the aid of old Bill, who had
arrived in Mangerongaro when the ship was off the coast,
and as I was still on the island, and now provided him
with as much food as he could dispose of, he became my most
devoted vassal.

After much labour, Bill and I got the log on the water,
but at a part full of boulders and fissures, over which it could
not be rolled without the greatest difficulty. Poor Bill on
one occasion was knocked down, and received such injury
that he was iors de combat for the day. Naturally not very
active, he felt so unwilling to renew the struggle, that I was
compelled reluctantly to abandon it, and take a much smaller
log near the village. This we did not attempt to remove
any further than up the bank beneath the straggling arms of
two old pandanas trees, where some palm boughs, extending
from limb to limb, made a partial shade from the direct rays
of the sun.

Now that all was ready for the construction of a canoe,
how was it to be accomplished ? The tools with which I
had to commence working on a solid log of one of the
most impervious kinds of timber, were of the most miserable
description. So earnest, however, was my desire for the
means of escape, that, nothing daunted by the difficulty, I
blocked out the form, and at once set to work, grinding
rather than chopping out the interior with a large axe.
Immediately after my early morning meal I hurried to the
little shed on the beach, which I called my ship-yard, accom-
panied by Bill, and after labouring till my. clothes were damp
with perspiration, I lay down whilst Bill took a spell, only
to resume my toil after this little rest. We worked till
noon, when we bathed and ate ; after which, notwithstanding
the heat, we laboured on till darkness prevented further pro-
gress. Thus we worked from day to day, oppressed with
the. constant dread that another vessel might appear without

842 TEDIOUS WORK.

our having the means of reaching her. The fear of audi a
result enabled me to endure double the fatigue of my more
robust comrade*

Amongst the articles of trade left on board ship when she
came ashore was a number of adzes, some of which I heard
had been saved from the wreck. I had frequently searched
for them since the commencement of my labours on the
canoe \ but without success. One day, however, when at my
usual task, a native arrived from a neighbouring island
with one of the much-coveted tools, which I seised with the
greatest eagerness. Although it was only a trade adze of the
commonest description, and had never been sharpened, it was
to me at that moment of more value than its weight in gold.
I now set to work with still greater activity. But alas ! my
ardour was soon damped. The instrument was blunt,
the wood very hard; and as I was unaccustomed to the
use of the tool, it was necessary for me to work with great
care. Notwithstanding all my caution, however, before the
day's work was over I cut my great toe so badly that it was
nearly severed close to the foot. The following morning
saw me at my post with unabated ardour, but much more
guarded in the use of this awkward tool, with which I en-
deavoured to cut more from me; but so badly did I use it in
this manner, that, on one occasion, when I had a particularly
hard knot to encounter, I struck it in such a position that
my much- valued implement broke right across the blade,
obliging me, to my great distress, to resume the old axe.

It took me upwards of a fortnight of unceasing labour to
block out the form of the canoe, and I then began to exca-
vate it, a work which was even more tedious. Remembering,
however, the plan of Robinson Crusoe, who had burned out
his canoe, I procured some poro, which produced a slow fire
admirably adapted for the purpose, but from its smouldering
quality too tedious in its progress for me. The addition of

NATIVE QUARRELS. 343

chips from the log made it burn much more strongly, but
required the closest attention to prevent its spreading to-
wards the edge of the canoe. Once, when I left it in charge
of Bill, I found the flames had made such progress in a wrong
direction as compelled me not only to alter its shape, but
also lessen its size, thus entailing nearly a week's further
labour. My work was at one time greatly interrupted by
the presence of the whole Tepuka nation, who coming on
another friendly visit to their allies, again encamped in
Haka Shusha, and during the day were constantly with us
— at least, the greater number of them — seriously impeding
my progress by their continual chatter.

So fully, however, was I occupied by my daily labour that
I took little notice of their proceedings. Even the lively
prattle of Haka Puta could not divert me from my indefati-
gable work. I was aware that a Tepukan expedition was
starting by sea to Mutagohiche, and that the Sararakans
were going by land across the reef, but had no idea of their
ultimate aim, if indeed at the time of departure they had
anything else in view than a merely friendly visit. Every
soul joined in the procession as it started along the strand,
the Tepukan fleet keeping as near in-shore as they could
safely venture in company with the land party. With the
exception of some of the old people and young children, Bill
and I were left undisturbed in our occupation. We had
already taken our mid-day bath, and were returning to work
at the ship-yard, when Haka Puta, breathless from the speed
with which she had run, came and informed us that the
Tepukans, aided by the joint forces of Sararak and Mutago-
hichfe, had, with Joe and his gun, sailed against Omuka and
Matunga. Much as I objected to embroil myself in the
quarrels of the natives, I could not think of allowing Joe to
fire on the poor islanders without an effort to save them if I
was still in time. With the utmost speed, therefore, I

344 COWARDICE OF THE SARARAKANS.

hurried to my house for my sword and pistol, giving my
knife and spear to Bill, and started for the scene of battle,
which had been so carefully kept from my knowledge.
During the journey I had abundant time to reflect on the
course I ought to pursue. It was impossible I could any
longer act a neutral part. The kindness and affection with
which the Matungans had always treated me made it incum-
bent on me to protect them from the aggressions of any of
the ship's people. At the same time it was unfortunate that
I should be compelled to take part against the Sararakans,
by whom I had been treated with no less consideration.
For their allies I had little or no sympathy ; and, as Joe had
joined in the attack more in enmity against me than in good-
will for his friends, I resolved to use my utmost exertion to
defeat, even at the cost of my life, the schemes at which he
was labouring.

On reaching Mutagohiche I found that all my warlike re-
solves had been, for the present, useless, the Sararakans having
already returned. The warriors of Mutagohiche also were
arriving in breathless haste, a few of them badly wounded —
one with a spear through his body, and another with a thrust
through the chest, from the effects of which he shortly after
died. The men of Sararak, who had been coerced into the
fight by their powerful neighbours, never stood a charge, but
took to flight at the first attack ; my worthy parent, O Pai
Tangata, their chief, being the first to head the rout. When
the land forces advanced, the Tepuka fleet, as I learned, had
made its way to the northern part of the island, hoping to
intercept the Matungans, whom they had observed approach-
ing the shores of Omuka. Entering, however, through an
inner passage in the reef, they had so far avoided them that
they were already nearing the land when Joe, enraged
at the escape of those he most disliked, fired his piece,
causing such terror among them that they all jumped over-

RETURN TO MANGERONGARO. 345

board and swam for shore. The Tepukans might now have
taken possession of all the Matungan canoes, to them most
valuable prizes, but they generously returned to assist the
shore party, whom they saw advancing along the sandy
margin of the lagoon. Before they had effected a landing
on the reef the discomfited Matungans had joined their
friends, and with them attacked the approaching enemy,
whom they compelled to retreat before the Tepukans could
come to their assistance, the Omukans thus performing a
masterpiece of generalship worthy of a better cause. They
were unable, however, to pursue the foe far, for fear of leaving
in their rear the canoe division, which was still formidable,
and contented themselves by keeping pace with it along the
margin of the water, taunting and daring their foe to land,
till Joe fired again, shooting a woman in the leg and grazing
a young girl's neck. This shot caused amongst the victors
a general panic, which might have been successfully followed
up by the enemy had they been properly led ; but they con-
tented themselves with this display, and made their way,
without stopping, to Haka Shusha. When I accused the
Sararakans of perfidy in secretly joining the Tepukans
against my friends of Matunga, they assured me they never
intended to fight, which was the cause of their apparent
cowardice. However that may be, they certainly did not
act with that courage which rumour gave them credit for,
they being accounted as brave a tribe as any of the group.

Fearing a malicious attack on my work in Mangerongaro,
I returned with the people of that place. During the few
days that the Tepukans remained at Haka Shusha, much
bad feeling existed. Joe's favourite project against Matunga
was not to be averted. Although he could not get up
another combination, he succeeded in stirring up a part of
the Tepukans to make a night attack on that island, now left
unprotected, its warriors being all encamped in Omuka.

846 MARAUDING EXPEDITION.

• «

This expedition, in which he did not join himself, was much

more disastrous in its results than the former. It was con-
ducted so secretly that I believe even the Sararakans knew
nothing of it till the following morning, when the return to
their shores of two canoes with a number of wounded men,
bringing the tale of their disasters, informed them of the de-
feat and loss their unwarrantable attack had so justly merited.
I was attracted to the scene of the disaster by the soupds of
wailing and the thronging crowds that flocked towards the
lagoon reef, where two canoes had just touched, and where a
Tepukan chief was recounting their adventures, whilst
several pale and bleeding men in the bottom of the boat
attested the truth of his story. It seemed that on the pre-
vious evening a proposition, emanating from Joe, to make a
night descent on Matunga, had been rejected by a council of
the leading chiefs of Tepuka; but cupidity and the love of
adventure had excited in a number of the younger men
the desire to plunder. Three war canoes, containing some
sixty men, had accordingly started about midnight; and,
having effected a landing, had carried on the work of spolia-
tion with such rapidity that their boats were soon loaded as
deeply as their safety would permit.

Once again embarked, the terror inspired by their pre-
sence no longer restrained the voices of the women, who
raised a cry of rage and grief that was heard over that and the
neighbouring island, whilst the blaze of the beacon-fire told
their friends in Omuka that danger or distress was at hand.
The latter responding at once to the call, the united forces
of Omuka and Matunga proceeded to sea in such canoes as
they could muster; for, since the recent attack of the
Tepukans and their allies, the Omukans had been employed
in the reconstruction of their war canoes, and had only their
smaller ones ready for use. Not observing in the night th6
direction that the enemy had -taken, they naturally advanced

OMUKAN VICTORY. 347

towards Matunga, when a messenger, swimming with the
news, informed them that the marauders, anticipating
pursuit, had directed their return by a circuitous
route, far out in the lagoon. As their three large canoes,
loaded nearly to the water's edge, made but slow progress,
the lighter skiffs of their pursuers were rapidly approach-
ing them when day was breaking over the eastern islets.
The canoes of the Tepukans being scattered, their enemies
were enabled to attack them in detail, and the first was
nearly overpowered before the others could render it assis-
tance. Finding themselves overtaken, they hove-to and
prepared to resist, but, hampered with their plunder, the
shower of spears from their enemies told with more effect
than the volley they returned. The Omukans, with loud
yells, dashed in to board them, overturning the heavily-
freighted canoe in the attack, and forcing its occupants to
take to flight by swimming, diving occasionally to avoid
the spears or the club-strokes of their pursuers. O Harfe,
a leading Omukan, impatient of the slow progress of his
canoe, sprang into the sea after a hostile chief, and de-
spatched him with numerous stabs while they struggled in
the waves. Another whom he overtook he seized by the hair,
and nearly severed his head from his body. When the third
canoe came to their assistance the enemy were almost over-
powered, and many of them were badly wounded before they
were able to effect their escape. Had the whole of the
Matungans and Omukans been able to come up in time, the
Tepukans would have been all destroyed or captured ; and so
severe a loss in warriors would have exposed their country to
frightful inroads. As it was, seven were killed and a great
number wounded— a loss which, amongst these people, is
considered the sign of a serious engagement. On the
other side there were only a few wounded, and those but
slightly.

348 COMPLETION OF MY CASOE.

Shortly after the arrival of the canoes two natives saved
themselves by swimming, one of them reaching the north
end of Sararak with just strength enough to raise himself to
the reef, where he was found in a senseless state with no
fewer than seven wounds, and the broken shaft of a spear
sticking about a foot out from his back. This man recovered,
but the other, who reached Haka Shusha, also bleeding pro-
fusely from many wounds, died shortly after landing. That
evening the Tepukans struck their encampment; the newly
made friends parted more determined enemies than ever;
and we were left to the quiet of our monotonous life once
more.

My canoe, which was something of the whale-boat
fashion, sharp fore and aft, was now advancing to comple-
tion ; but unfortunately the dimensions of my log precluded
the breadth of beam I could have wished.

I was very proud of my craft when finished. I had made
many a model ship in my boyhood, but this was my first
attempt at veritable boat-building. It was completed in
about a month, during which my labour was indefatigable.
The natives, to whom such a vessel would have been
a work of years, at first laughed at the idea of my ever
finishing it; but towards its completion seemed to take
great interest in it. On the day I pronounced it ready
the whole population was afoot, having volunteered to
carry it across the island to the lagoon. With the usual
demonstrative noises it was taken by them to a quiet
little bay, where, to their great delight, it floated lightly
without an outrigger. But alas I I at once saw that, as I
had feared, it was too crank to dispense with this in-
variable accompaniment to the island craft. Impatient as I
was to try its powers, I immediately set about adding this
necessary appendage ; but it was well on through the next
day before I had it completed, and then, such had been my

TRIAL OF ITS SAILING QUALITIES. 349

haste, that the lashings were very insecure. Indeed, I only
intended them as a temporary arrangement, as I could no
longer await the anxious moment when I could feel myself
secure in what I then considered my ark of salvation. And
such an ark ! I would now scarcely venture on a mill-pond
in it, much less launch out into the rolling waves of the
great Pacific.

The last lashing completed, paddles ready, and thole-
pins in their places, " Now for it, Bill/' said I, " she will
hold us both." Bill doubted it much ; but in we stepped
with great caution, our combined weight bringing the gun-
wale close to the water's edge, to Bill's discomfiture, for he
could not swim. " Hurrah 1 for Matunga," I exclaimed, as
I plied the paddles, and we shot into the lagoon. The
natives crowding on the beach, having no idea of our leaving
them at the time, shouted to us to come back.

The clouds, meanwhile, gathered in a manner portentous
of one of those sudden squalls that generally warn such craft
as ours to look to land rather than sea for safety ; and before
we had cleared the north point Bill could scarcely keep our
boat clear by constant baling. I thought it advisable, there-
fore, to draw near the shore, for with two in her I could not
keep the little thing afloat. Even in the lagoon the strong
gale had raised a nasty sea; and during the delay alongside
the reef, my indifferently constructed outrigger was so
roughly handled that when I put out to sea again it evinced
signs of dissolution, and was soon a complete wreck. It was
only by the closest attention that I could keep this crankest
of little vessels from going bottom upwards. Finally, I got
her hoisted up on the reef at a high point, nearly dry, where
leaving her, I proceeded across towards Omuka, greatly dis-
concerted at my partial shipwreck.

At Omuka I hoped to meet some of my Matunga people.
It seemed, however, that they were all mustered on their own

850 A 8AIL IN SIGHT.

island, for a grand fishing expedition, in which they were
to be joined by such natives of Omuka as still remained
behind. 1 determined to avail myself of the opportunity to
join my old friends, and retired early to dream over the ad-
ventures of the day.

With the dawn all in the village were up, the early fishing
party making an unusual stir in their noisy prepara-
tions. I was at breakfast with Ocura's father when two
women, en route for Ruahara, sat down opposite to my
tent. They asked me if I had deserted Haka Puta, as she
had come to Mutagohichfe the previous evening in tears,
saying I had left her. In fact, my canoe had occupied so
much of my thoughts that I had almost forgotten my interest
in her. The rebuke, however, determined me to return for
the little girl, repairing my canoe on the way, and collecting
such remains of the wreck as were necessary for the con-
struction of my long projected house.

I had already bid adieu to my friends, spoken the " ahana,"
made the " shara shara," and with a native spear in my
hand was starting on my way, when once again my heart
bounded at the shout of " Oaka nufe I" I stood for a moment
spellbound, and then rushed with the crowd towards the
north end of the island, looking across the lagoon to Tokerau,
where it was reported a sail had been seen. That island,
stretching across from west to east along the north of the
lagoon, had many breaks or fissures, which in high tides
were washed by the sea, thus connecting them with the inside
waters, but at ebb were vacant spaces or vistas, through
which the ocean at the north could be seen. Through one of
these, it was said, the sail had been observed. While I was
doubting the truth of the report, a wild shout from the crowd
dispelled all uncertainty, and a stately ship, her tall spars
crowded with white sails, appeared in sight.

My brain seemed bursting, till a flood of tears came to my

MY DETERMINATION TO ESCAPE. 351

relief, leaving me composed and resolved. Hurrying to my
house, where I had left my pistol, I charged it carefully, put-
ting in three slugs. Several of the natives who had eagerly fol-
lowed asked me why I made " hacha tera" ready ? I replied,
" To shoot any enemy that might land ;" for I was deter-
mined to prevent any one from coming to reap the benefits
that the pearl island afforded without my fair award as itB
discoverer. On the other hand, if the vessel proved to be a
whale ship, I made up my mind to board her or die in
the attempt. When I reached the beach the canoes were
already pushing off for the Omuka passage. One large war
canoe, of too great draught of water to be easily launched,
alone remained, and as I reached the shore it glided into deep
water. O Hark, the chief who had distinguished himself
in the recent sea fight, was the captain of this oaka. I
covered him with my pistol, and ordered him to take me
on board. His people shouted to. him to go on. I told
them that they called me self-willed, and they knew me
too well to doubt that I would fire on them, if they put a
paddle in the water without me. They begged me to put
ddwn the pistol; but I knew my advantage, and kept
O Harfe still covered with it. All kinds of excuses were
made to seduce me from my determination of going with
them ; but I furiously commanded them to put in shore,
or I would immediately fire. Alarmed for his own safety,
the chief ordered the canoe to put in, and I sprang on
board.

I offered every inducement to prevail upon them to take
me out to the vessel. They should receive presents of knives
and fish-hooks, with which the big ship was well stored. All
became so excited that they urged the canoe forward, and
did not withdraw paddle till we were gliding through
the passage into the Pacific. Then, for the first time, they
rested on their oars, and gazed on the tall ship, now clearly seen

352 HOSTILE DISPLAY.

from the northern end of Tokerau, some three or four miles
distant, and standing away across our path to the south-
ward. I entreated them to lose no time, for already
the ship was crossing our course. I took off my shirt, and,
fastening it to the end of a spear, waved it to and fro. Joy-
ful sight ! The vessel hove- to, having evidently observed the
signal. We neared a point of Matunga (the spot that I had
selected for my proposed house), where some natives were on
the beach, but at too great a distance for me to recognise
them. When we came abreast the point they were not
fifty yards off. Two of them, Ocura, wife of "Turua, and
Mau Kakara, wife of Taharua, jumped into the water,
and swam out to cut us off. They called to those in
the canoe to stop, but I urged them on. O Hare represented
that the people of Matunga would kill them on their re-
turn if they assisted in my escape. The women, meanwhile,
rapidly approached, calling me by name. There was no
time to lose. Drawing my knife, I threatened to attack
the crew at once if they did not all give way — a command
with which they thought it best to comply ; for the canoe
was propelled at such a rate that the poor women were
soon left behind.

This struggle had delayed us considerably ; and I found
on looking seaward that the ship was again standing out to
sea. I had recourse to my flag, and once more I had the
gratification of seeing her heave-to. Perceiving this, the men
took heart, and we soon neared the ship. I saw she was a
fine American whaler. Her numerous crew, armed with
cutting spades and boarding knives, lined the gunwale;
whilst the cabin windows were thrown open to permit the
use of musketry formidably presented towards the advancing
savages. This hostile display, however, was not without an
apparent reason ; for behind us there came pressing nume-
rous canoes filled with armed natives, vociferating in their

ON BOABD THE "JOHN APPLETON." 253

wild language with as wild action, and presenting a very
formidable appearance.

When within hailing distance, the crew refused to proceed
unless I promised to return with them. I evaded a direct
reply, which did not. satisfy them, for they made a demon-
stration as if they intended to return. I had again resort,
therefore, to the pistol, but was suddenly pinioned by a
powerful native behind, who threw his arms around me. I
contrived, with the strength of despair, to wrench my pistol
hand from his embrace, when I placed the muzzle over my
shoulder in the direction of his face, at which he was fain to
release me in such a hurry that he fell prostrate in the canoe.
The rest, in alarm, again plied their paddles ; but O Harfe
shouted to the surrounding canoes to intercept us. This they
did, but the sight of my weapon made them clear the way.
When near the vessel a line was thrown from the ship,
which I seized, and was hauled up on board the John
Jfpleton, whale ship, of New Bedford, Captain Isaac Taylor,
commander.

I immediately asked for the captain, and was con-
ducted to him. I expressed my gratitude for his assist-
ance in my escape, and he recommended me to go down
to the cabin. I presume he observed my nervous state,
for I trembled from head to foot. I took his advice,
and lay for a moment on a sofa, but could not rest. I
walked up and down, and passing the captain's cabin, stared
wonderingly on a looking-glass, in which I caught a glimpse
of a figure as savage as that of any of the natives. My hair and
beard almost covered my face ; my head was protected from
the sun by the remnant of a Panama hat, held together by
fish bones ; my bronzed skin appeared through my thread-
bare shirt, which exposed my neck, chest, and arms ; and a
remnant of blue dangaree trousers, whose ragged ends

A A

354 THE "SHUNGE."

scarce reached my knees, left my feet and legs bare.
"Well might I start at the strange figure I presented to
myself.

Hearing a great commotion on deck, I hastened up again.
In getting the ship under way, the natives from one of the
Matunga canoes had made a dash and boarded the vessel.
The sailors would have heaved them overboard, but they
dung about us, begging me to take them with me. We got
them all away at last, except two (Tangera and Kai Poa),
whom the captain permitted to come with us. I bent over
the rail, uttering farewells to the poor creatures who had
evinced so much attachment to me. When I bade them
the " ahana !" they set up a cry, and begged the " shunge"
before our final parting. Anxious to comply with so revered
a custom, but at the same time fearing they might seize me if
once again in their power, some of the sailors kindly made
a rope fast round my body to secure me whilst I went over
the ship's side to allow my foot to be kissed by my poor
friends as their canoes passed beneath.

After the ceremony, I went to the taffirail to give them a
last adieu, when, in our wake, I beheld the canoe of Taharua,
who, with Turua and some other Matungans, was pulling
with all his might to reach the ship, now feeling the wind.
One of them, observing me, called out my name, when
all desisted pulling and looked up to where I stood.
Turua beat his head against the gunwale of the canoe till he
dropped, apparently senseless, in the bottom of the boat;
Happy as I felt at my deliverance, it was not without much
pain that I parted with these generous friends, who, as I sub-
sequently learned, together with many of the other islanders,
went into close mourning aftet my departure, scarifying and
wounding themselves as usual.

. Before sunset the last glimpse of Te Pitaka had disap-
peared, and the wide ocean was again around me. I knew

KINDNESS OF THE CAPTAIN. 355

not whither I was bound, nor did I care, for I had civi-
lization around me, and listened to words of interest in my
native tongue. Now that the ship was again fairly on her
course, the captain had leisure to attend to me, and
was very kind, ransacking his lockers for some little de-
lieacies to tempt my appetite, that, whether from recent
excitement or change of food, had almost left me. Now that
I had attained the consummation of my ardent hopes, I felt
feverish, ill, and depressed in spirits. My good friend the
captain endeavoured to rouse me, and after dinner made
me take a genuine gin-cocktail prepared by himself. As he
stood with one foot against the bulkhead, and the other against
the table, to steady himself in the important process of
tossing it from glass to glass, his pleasant jokes did more
to raise my spirits than his highly extolled prescription,
good as it was in its way. Desirous that I should
enjoy a long-lost luxury, the steward put a feather-bed
into my bunk, which, though delightful when I first laid
my wearied frame on it, after lying so long on the coral
gravel of the islands, soon made me so hot and feverish
that I could not sleep, and I had to get up and rest
on the wooden bench in the cabin. It is astonishing,
however, how soon I again learned to appreciate so natural a
comfort, and before the end of the voyage I enjoyed it suffi-
ciently to -regret its absence, when, in subsequent wander-
ings, I had to resume a couch much the same as that I
had escaped from.

The two natives were a great amusement to the crew. Of
course all they saw was a source of curiosity and wonder ; and
I was continually applied to for the names of various things
and their uses. All food, except their native cocoa-nuts, was
disliked. Even sugar, of which I gave them a lump, they
spat out with a grimace, saying, " Oa tih 1" (" It is salt 1")
which was the common exclamation by which they expressed

856 aticu.

their appreciation of most of the eatables they tasted. Sea
biscuit was the grand exception. Of this they were very
fond ; and to it and their supply of cocoa-nuts they finally con-
fined themselves. For my own part, I made the cocoa-nut
part of my daily meal for some time, fearing the effects
of too rapid a change of diet. The natives had also a
great antipathy to work. They would take up the broom
to sweep the decks with wonderful energy for a few minutes,
and then throw it away, saying, with quiet nonchalance,
"No, I don't like it; it makes my back ache/' They
went aloft as well ap any old salt; but when there was
reefing or anything like work to be done, they preferred
being below.

A few days' sail to the southward, with a fresh trade-
wind nearly abeam, brought us in sight of the pretty
little island of Aticu. We intended to have made my
favourite isle, Mauk£, but found it too far to windward. The
captain wished to take in some fresh provisions, and I
advised his calling at one of this group as the best for that
purpose.

On landing with him, the people seemed pleased to see
me again. I made inquiries as to when the missionary
vessel might be expected amongst them ; but as there are
only native teachers on this island, it is rarely visited by
that vessel. I was informed, however, that she was ex-
pected in the following month at Borotonga or Maugier.
The two Matungans and Bill remained on shore during
the delay here. The former were much amazed at the
forest of various trees, and the undulating ground, which
afforded them an abundance of amusement in walking up
and running at full speed down the slopes; but the flow-
ing streams and abundant supply of fresh water, in which
they loved to bathe, charmed them most. Tet when I
asserted the superiority of this over their sterile sandy

BOROTOHGA. 857

ides, they maintained that their own country was far more
delightful.

" Breathes there a man with soul so dead,
Who never to himself hath said,
This is my own, my native land ?"

The Aticuans were most anxious that our party should
remain with them ; and old Bill, who was much charmed
with these people, resolved, as he said, to "cast anchor
here/' It was at the last moment, when the boat was about
to shove off, that he finally decided; and I could only
bid my old and faithful ally a hurried farewell on the
reef, gaining the deck just in time to see his red shirt
disappear through a path in the forest as the crowd of
natives left the beach for their inland villages. I felt great
regret at parting with him. He had many peculiarities,
but with Prince Hal I might exclaim, "I could have
better spared a better man !" I have never been able to
hear of him since.

A few days more and " Land ho 1" from the mast-head
made us all jump into the rigging, whence the misty blue
cone of Rorotonga was seen peering above the horizon.
Sailing free, as we now were, this lovely island became
momentarily more distinct ; and as its blue mountains rose
from the waters, the Matungans, gazing with wonder on this
new phenomenon, exclaimed, "Aroa hacka taka!" ("What
a height !") "Na arua kiangal" ("It is two lands !"),
placing one hand above the other, to indicate there was land
on the top of land.

This is one of the most lovely of all the palmy isles of the
Pacific ; but though its beauties, developing themselves as
we rapidly neared it, charmed me, a greater delight filled my
breast as I approached this favoured spot, for I had friends in
Rorotonga, the central or principal point of the district, with
a printing establishment, a depdt of books, tracts, &c.,

358 THREE FASTING CHEEKS.

whence native teachers are famished to the less civilised or
Christianized inlands. I longed to roah into the canoe that
approached as we hove-to. I felt ashamed of this temporary
forgetfulness of the kind captain's attention, and of my anxiety
to get off from him, when he came to renew his oft-repeated
offer of taking me to New Bedford ; but the time spoken of
appeared interminable, he having to go to New Zealand to
conclude his voyage, where he might be considerably de-
tained; whilst deliverance seemed now at hand through Roro-
tonga, my intention being to proceed from thence by the
missionary boat to Tahiti, and then by a trading vessel
to California. The captain told me of the uncertainty of
getting from these islands, and said his roundabout route
might prove the nearest way home ; but, full of hope, I de-
termined to land.

The shades of evening, as they gradually deepened, warned
the captain that he must haul off from the dangerous reefs
of these islands. I bade farewell to all hands; Tangera
was already in the canoe; Kai Poa, by much persua-
sion, remaining with the captain, who wished to keep
him. I now stood on the gangway to bid farewell to Captain
Taylor, who came forward with a little bundle, a change
of clothing, to which also the kind mate contributed. The
gift was so generously and delicately made that I could not
but gratefully accept it. The good ship rounded to her
course, and the brave fellows on her deck gave us three
hearty cheers, which we returned with a will. This was too
much for Kai Poa, who sprang from the rigging into the
waves, making it necessary for us to put back and pick him
up. The quickly-setting sun of the tropical twilight dropped
beneath the waters ; the tall ship gradually disappeared ; and
the island loomed solemnly before us as we passed through
the breakers of the reef into a little bay, where the canoe
was grounded.

"good night." 359

It would be very pleasant to tell of the goodness of these
people ; .of their venerable pastor, Mr. Pitman, whose almost
daily guest I became during my residence among them.
But here we are at Rand's cottage; my couch is ready; I
must turn in and say — " Good night 1"

THE END.

LONDON:

8A71LL AND EDWAKD8, PRINTERS, CHAND08 STREET,

COVENT GARDEN.

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THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
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