THE UNIVERSITY
OF ILLINOIS
LIBRARY
C57j
iar
I
WILLIAM CLAYTON
William Clayton's Journal
A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original
Company of "Mormon" Pioneers from
Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley
of the Great Salt Lake
PUBLISHED BY THE
CLAYTON FAMILY ASSOCIATION
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH:
THE DESERET NEWS
1921
Copyright, 1921
by
Lawrence Clayton
Trustee for the
Clayton Family Association
All rights reserved
u
ESS
Foreword
William Clayton was one of the remarkable char-
acters of early Utah history. Born in ithe county of
Lancashire, England, July 17, 1814, he was educated in
one of the schools of his native town, and grew to man-
hood with a love for books and nature. An early convert
of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, he
conducted one of the first companies from England to
Nauvoo, and there became one of the trusted secretaries
of the Prophet Joseph Smith. With the exodn^ from
Nauvoo, he was Clerk of the Camp of Israel, and when
the Mormon pioneers left Winter Quarters in April, 1847,
he was appointed by Brigham Young one of the historians
of that noted company. His journal of that memorable
expedition over the plains is one of the most valuable
diaries we have of that early period of western history.
He kept careful account of the distances traveled each
day, and 'his writings are full of descriptions of the coun-
try over which they traveled. He has noted the topo-
graphy, the fauna and flora of the trail ; and his descrip-
tions of the activities of the company indicate a well
trained intellect in social study. His language is simple
and direct, and his care in keeping each day's distance
and important facts of the journey show order and
method.
His hymn, "Come, come, ye Saints" takes its place as
one of the most beautiful hymns of western history, for it
is full of joy fulness, and expresses an optimism and faith
vi WILLIAM CLAYTON
Winter Quarters, November 28, 1847. The remainder
of his brothers and sisters survived the persecutions of
mobs and the early privations of the Church and came to
the valley of the Great Salt Lake with the pioneers of
Utah.
William Clayton first heard the Gospel preached in
England by Heber C. Kimball and Orson Hyde. With
his wife, Ruth Moon Clayton, whom he married in Eng-
land, October 9, 1836, he listened to the teachings of
these missionaries, but he was not easy to convert. His
wife received the Gospel first, and many evenings had
to be spent before William Clayton became a believer in
"Mormonism." He was ordained a Priest December 25,
1837, and a High Priest, April 1, 1838, at which time
he was appointed with Willard Richards, Counselor to
Joseph Fielding who presided over the Church in Europe.
September 8, 1840, he left England in the packet ship
North America, arriving in New York, October 11, 1840,
and in Nauvoo November 24, 1840. In this city, he
became a trusted friend of the founders of the Church,
so much so that on February 10, 1842, he was appointed
secretary to Joseph Smith the Prophet. October 7, 1842,
he became Temple Recorder and Recorder of Revela-
tions. In 1842, he became Tresaurer of the City of
Nauvoo. These appointments are indicative of the zeal
with which William Clayton served the Church through-
out his life.
What of the personal characteristics of our subject?
As will appear from his portrait on the frontispiece, Wil-
liam Clayton did not tend to frivolity or mirth but rather
to seriousness and earnestness. Yet he was witty and
WILLIAM CLAYTON vii
had a keen sense of humor. In the home he was not
demonstrative; although he had great love for his home
and family and provided well for their comfort. He was
methodical, always sitting in his own arm chair, having
a certain place at the table and otherwise showing his
love for order, which he believed the first law of heaven.
His person was clean and tidy ; his hands small and dimp-
led. He wore very little jewelry but what little he had
was the best money could buy. He would not carry a
watch that was not accurate, and his 'clothing was made
from the best material. His children remember him best
in black velvet coat and grey trousers and, in cold
weather, a broad-cloth cloak in place of overcoat.
The man-timber in William Clayton came from
sturdy trees. His character was above all littleness. He
believed that what was good for him was good for all
men, and that the measurement of our lives was based
upon our daily conduct towards each other. To him that
was God's standard. He believed in perfect equity in
the adjustment of the affairs of life. Had he loved money,
he could probably have had it because of his education,
and executive ability. But he cared little for material
gain, centering his zeal in the pursuit of honor and right.
William Clayton was honest and nothing to him
could justify an untruth. He deplored waste or extrava-
gance, yet he never withheld from a neighbor in distress,
or from the widow or orphan. Many are those who knew
his generosity. When his harvest was gathered, bushels
of grain and fruit found place among those of scanty
store. And many pairs of shoes and much warm cloth-
ing were given to comfort the needy. Nor was the home-
viii WILLIAM CLAYTON
less forgotten, but the orphan was given a home and joy
by his own fireside.
His religion was deeply rooted and nurtured by as-
sociation with and testimony of an eye witness to the liv-
ing God. His love for Joseph Smith was love seldom
shown in man for man. Few men possessed stronger
faith and courage. These qualities alone could inspire
a man under heart-rendering circumstances, to write
such hymns of faith and comfort as "Come, come, ye
Saints," and "The' Resurrection Day."
The record of William Clayton in Utah kept pace
with that of previous years. His home was open al-
ways to his friends who loved to gather there for social
hours. Civic welfare always interested him. He was
a musician and played in the pioneer orchestra and that
of the Salt Lake Theatre. He was a lover of community
features and took part in dramatic functions.
He was treasurer of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile
Institution, Recorder of Marks and Brands, Receiver of
Weights and Measures, and was Territorial Auditor. His
love for education prompted many sacrifices and he tried
hard to give his children the essentials of good school-
ing.
He had a strong will, although a tender conscience.
Cowardice had no place in him. Truly he could say, "My
heart is fixed. I know in whom I trust." Joseph Smith
believed that they should meet and associate in the Ce-
lestial Kingdom of God as they had here.
William Clayton died December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake
City. Services were held in the Seventeenth Ward
Chapel at which his own funeral hymn was sung. He
left a large posterity. , T
VICTORIA C. McCuNE,
Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921
Editor's Note
The descendants of William Clayton have in recent
years formed themselves into an organization known as
the "Clayton Family Association." This book is offered
to the public by the Asociation with the thought that a
document of such faithful description and fine spirit
would be welcomed by all people who might be interested
either in the Pioneer Period of Western History or more
particularly in the exodus of the "Mormon" people from
Missouri to the valley of the Great Salt Lake. It is dif-
ficult to understand why the "Journal" was not published
years ago and it seems to require somewhat of an apology
that this interesting record should have remained so long'
unknown and be now brought out with considerable haste.
In the effort to have it ready for distribution to the
members of the Clayton Family Association on the anni-
versary of the birth of their forefather on July 17th, there
has been a sacrifice of care and deliberation in the prepar-
ation of this first edition which is hoped the reader will
overlook upon consideration of the facts. This lack
of time and care will show itself more in the text than
in any other particular. Much of the proof reading was
done by the undersigned on board train between Salt
Lake i.nd California. To say the least, such surroundings
are not conducive to the most finished work. It is hoped
that this circumstance will also make the reader more
tolerant when encountering mistakes in the text, ob-
viously the result of hasty proof reading. At a later date
x EDITOR'S NOTE
a second edition will do better justice to the author of the
"Journal" and will show more consideration for the fine
taste of the reader.
LAWRENCE CLAYTON.
Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921.
William Clayton's Journal.
NAUVOO, ILLINOIS.
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 1846. At the office all day
packing public goods, evening at Fair's writing out a
letter of instruction to trustees.
MONDAY, 9xn. At the office packing. At 3:30 the
temple was seen on fire. Women carrying water.
TUESDAY, lOxn. At the temple packing, also Wed-
nesday llth.
THURSDAY, 12xH. At home preparing to move.
FRIDAY, 13xH. Sent four loads of goods over the
river. Loading and packing.
SATURDAY, 14xn. Packing and seeking letters.
SUNDAY, 15xn. Riding around to get teams and
things together. Sent two teams over the river.
MONDAY, 16xH. Still loading teams, also Tuesday
17th.
WEDNESDAY, 18xn. Got about ready to go over the
river. Evening President Brigham Young, Heber C.
Kimball, J. M. Grant and some of the pioneers came to
hurry us over. N. K. Whitney also came in. We
conversed together some. They .state the brethren have
made a perfect waste of food and property in the camp.
THURSDAY, 19xn-. This morning the ground is
covered with snow. It is so windy they cannot cross
the river. Continued to snow all day. Evening went
2 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
to Elder Babbit's to supper with Elder Kimball. Presi-
dent Young- was there, Backenstos, J. M. Grant and
some others.
FRIDAY, 20rn. The weather is very cold and windy.
Impossible to cross the river. Spent the day running
after things to g^et ready, fixing wagons and chopping
fire wood.
FRIDAY, 2/TH. We have spent the past week wait-
ing for crossing over the river.* It has been hard frost
and much snow. This morning I concluded to start
over the river and began early to send my teams. About
noon I crossed with my family and then rested the teams
and soon after went on to the camp where we arrived
a little before four o'clock. Bishop Whitney concluded
to ,stay at the river until morning because some of his
teams could not get over. When we got to the camp
we were received with joy and formed in the company of
the band. The weather is still very cold especially during
the night. The distance from Nauvoo to this place is
called seven and a half miles.
SATURDAY, 28TH. A. M. arranging my tents, etc.
At twelve was sent for to council and about two the
band was requested to go and meet bishop Whitney and
his teams. We went and met him five miles from the
camp. We played some time and then returned to the
camp. President Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P. Pratt,
Orson Pratt and others accompanied us. At nighl
played with the band.
SUNDAY, MARCH 1, 1846. A. M. preparing to march
to the next encampment. At ten a lecture was given
by Elder Kimball and about one the company proceeded
Mississippi.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
to the next camp about four and a half miles, where we
arrived in good season.
MONDAY, 2ND. Started this morning for another
camp about eight miles where we arrived about five P.
M., the roads being somewhat hilly and muddy. The
band played at night. During the day the artillery com-
pany broke into our ranks .several times and broke a
number of our wagon boxes. At night they complained
of us at headquarters, but after hearing our story the
matter stood about right.
TUESDAY, 3RD. Proceeded on our journey through
Farmington about eight miles to a place where bishop
Miller was encamped and arrived in good season. The
band played at night.
WEDNESDAY, 4xH. This morning we concluded to
stay a day and fix up some wagons which were broken.
A number of the citizens from Farmington came to the
camp and gave a very pressing invitation for the band to
go to Farmington and play some. Accordingly about
three o'clock, the band started and arrived at Farming-
ton about 4:30 p. m. We played at the principal hotel
and then went to the school house and played till nearly
dark. The house was filled with men and ' women, the
leading people of the place. We then retained to the hotel
where they had provided us with a good supper. They
also gave us $5 in money. Kay* sang a number of songs.
At eight o'clock we returned and when we left they gave
us three cheers. When we arrived at the camp we met
thirty of the guard just starting out to meet us. The
President felt uneasy at our staying so long and was
sending the men to protect us.
*John Kay.
4 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
THURSDAY, STH. Proceeded on our journey.
Crossed the Des Moines river at Bonaparte and after-
wards had a very bad road up the bluff for several miles
which detained us until late in the afternoon. We stopped
awhile to feed the band teams inasmuch as they had none
this morning-. We then started and went to the next
camping ground, making the day's journey about six-
teen miles.
SATURDAY, 7TH. Proceeded about eight miles to a
camp ground near to a Dr. Elberts where the band
camped. President Young was behind and when he ar-
rived he went on about eight miles farther. The band
went to work splitting rails for corn and made before
dark, about 130. In the evening Dr. Elbert and some
others came to hear the band play. Kay sang some
songs which pleased them.
SUNDAY, STH. Waited for orders from headquart-
ers. Many of the citizens came to hear the band play
and gave us a very pressing invitation to go to Keo-
saugua and give a concert. About noon word came th.it
we should follow on to the camp. We immediately
struck tents and started and we arrived at the main cairn
about five o'clock. Some of the citizens from Keo-
saugtia followed us waiting for an answer whether we
would give a concert as soon as we arrived at the camp.
I asked the President whether the band should go to
Keasaugua to give a concert. He advised us to go and
I immediately sent out the appointment and then \\e
pitched our tents forming a line on the road opposite
to the President's company.
WILLIAM) CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 5
MONDAY, 9xH. Spent the day chiefly preparing for
the concert and attending on my family.
TUESDAY, K)TH. The weather still continues fine.
Spent the morning preparing for the concert and abouc
one o'clock p. m. started in company with the brass band
for Keosaugua. I rode in Elder Kimball's wagon with
William Kimball, J. Smithies and Wm. Pitt. The dis-
tance from the camp to Keosaugua is about ten miles,
the camp being at a place called Richardson's point. We
arrived at Keosaugua about three o'clock and being re-
quested we went through the town and played some. One
of the grocery keepers invited us to play him a tune
which we did. He then invited us in and offered to treat
us to anything he had. We each took a little and then
the next grocery keeper sent an invitation for us to play
him a tune. We did so and he also gave us anything he
had. A beer keeper next .sent word that he did not want
us to slight him and we went and played him a tune and
then took some of his cake and beer. We then marched up
to the Des Moines hotel near the court-house where we
had ordered supper and after eating we went to the court-
house to prepare for the concert. At seven o'clock the
house was crowded and we commenced, playing and sing-
ing till about 9 :30. The audience seemed highly pleased
and gave loud applause. About the close one of the
citizens got up and said it was the wish of many that
we should repeat the concert the following evening and
he took a vote of all who wished us to go again. The
vote was unanimous. We made nearly $25.00 clear of all
expenses. We started back for the camp soon after ten
and arrived about one o'clock all well and pleased.
6 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
WEDNESDAY, HTH. In the morning- I reported to
President Young our success and the request of the citi-
zens of Keosaugua and he advised us to go again. We
accordingly started about eleven o'clock. I again rode
with William Kimball, Horace Whitney and James
Smithies. When we arrived we were welcomed again
with the same kind feelings as yesterday. Pitt had a
severe chill all the way and when we got there it com-
menced raining and made it very unpleasant. The
house was again filled but we only made $20.00 besides all
expenses. We learned that there is a party of socialists
there and they and the priests are much opposed to each
other. We also learned that a man named McCully was
in jail close by under sentence to be hung on the 4th of
April for murdering a man and a child. I did not feel
so well at the concert as ,on the night previous on sev-
eral accounts. We started back between eleven and
twelve and got to the camp about three o'clock.
THURSDAY, 12TH. The band moved to better ground
about one quarter of a mile farther. The heavy rains
had made it very muddy and unpleasant, all our bedding
and things being wet.
FRIDAY, 13TH. Went hunting.
SATURDAY, 14-TH. Wrote a letter to Diantha.
SUNDAY, 15TH. In camp all day.
MONDAY, 16TH. Some of the citizens of Keosaugua
came again to request us to give another concert. We
agreed to go tomorrow evening.
TUESDAY, I/TH. Started for Keosugua with Pitt,
Hutchinson, Kay, Smithies and Egan. I took my music
box and china to try and sell them. We arrived in good
YYILL1AM. CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 7
season and soon learned that the priests had been hard
at work preventing the sectarians from coming to the
concert, saying- that it was an infidel move consequently
there were not many present. We had far the best con-
cert which lasted till nine o'clock. We then went over
to the hotel, took supper and played for a private party till
about three o'clock. We only cleared from both, about
$7.00 over expenses but were wiell treated.
WEDNESDAY, 18TH. It rained last night and this
morning again and we almost concluded to go to Fair-
field, but finally determined to return to camp. We visited
with a Mr. Bridgman who treated us very kindly. Bought
about eight bushels of beans and some articles for Presi-
dent Young and then returned to camp. It rained some
again today. We got back about five o'clock. After dark
Dr. Elbert came to see my china and said if I would take
it over tomorrow he would buy it.
THURSDAY, 19xH. Went to ask council whether i
should go to sell my china. Saw Heber who advised me
to go. A few of us started and soon met President
Young who said we had better go back and go with the
camp who were then starting on their way. We accord-
ingly turned back our horses and struck tents in a hurry.
At twelve o'clock we started on our journey. After travel-
ing about six or seven miles we had to go up a very bad
bluff which took us till five o'clock. President Young's
company went ahead of us and camped three miles from
the bluff. Some of our teams gave out and we only went
about a mile from the bluff and camped in a little point of
timber a little from the road. Our teams were very tired.
SATURDAY, 21 ST. We started early in the morning
8 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
and soon came up with the main body of the camp. 1
rode ahead about three miles to hunt my cow. We did not
have her last night being- with the main camp. We trav-
eled nine or ten miles and then rested our teams. We
started again and traveled three miles farther where we
found the President and Heber camped on the brink of
a long bluff. We concluded to go to the other bank which
we did and camped in a good place. In the evening the
band went and played for the President and Heber and
then went to a farmer's house at the owner's request about
three quarters of a mile from camp to play for his fam-
ily. He promised to give us some honey if we would play
for him. We played about an hour and then left but
neither saw nor heard anything of the honey. We learned
afterwards, however, that Hutchinson had a pail under
his cloak and got it full of honey after the rest had left the
house and kept it to himself, very slyly.
SUNDAY, 22ND. Started again and soon came to the
Shariton bottoms which is a very low land for about four
miles. The road was bad and it took us sometime to
cro.ss. While on the bottom Root and Davis came again.
Root had asked permission of President Young to go
back to his family some days ago but it seems things did
not go to suit him and he followed his team again. It took
sometime to go up the bluff. We had to let the teams
down into the Shariton river by ropes and also helped
them up again by the same means. Our company goi;
over in good season but we concluded to camp after get-
ting up the bluff as it would take till night for the whole
to get up. I spent the day helping the teams till I was
so sore and tired I could scarcely walk.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 9
MONDAY, 23RD. In council with Brigham, Heber,
and others. We found that Miller's company had gone
still farther about eight miles instead of waiting till we
overtook them so that we could organize. I wrote a let-
ter to them saying if they did not wait or return to or-
ganize, the camp would organize without and they be dis-
fellowshiped. We concluded to stay at this place a
few -days to buy corn to last to Grand river but we found
corn scarce and 26c a bushel, the farmers having ad-
vanced on account ,of a disposition to speculate.
TUESDAY, 24-TH and WEDNESDAY, 25xH. At the
camp writing, etc. It rained considerably.
THURSDAY, 26xH. Evening in council. Wrote a
long letter to be sent to Emmet's company by John But-
ler and James W. Cummings. This morning wrote an-
other letter to P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, George Miller
telling them they must wait for us or come back to ofgan-
ize. The letters were sent by Smithies. He met them on
the way and about noon P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, John
Kay and G. Miller came into camp and at 1.00 P. M. the
council met. The brethren plead that the charges in the
letters were unjust. They had not striven to keep out of
the way but had done all for the best. The whole camp
accordingly was organized, A. P. Rockwood over 1st 50;
Stephen Markham, 2nd 50; Young, 3rd 50; Howard E.
Kimball, 4th 50; Charles C. Rich, 5th 50; Charles Cris-
man, 6th 50. Each fifty had also appointed a contracting
commissary for the purpose of contracting for work and
grain as follows: Henry Sherwood 1st 50; David H.
Kimball 2nd ; Wm. H. Edwards 3rd ; Peter Haws 4th ;
Joseph Worthen 5th ; Samuel Gully 6th. It was under-
10 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
stood that I continue to preside over the band and in the
absence of Brother Haws over the whole fifty. After this
there was appointed for each fifty a distributing- commis-
sary to distribute feed in camp as follows : Charles Ken-
nedy for 1st 50; J. M. Grant 2nd 50; Nathan Tanner 3rd
50 ; Orson B. Adams 4th 50 ; James Allred 5th 50 ; Isaac
Allred 6th 50. The brethren then gave the following in-
structions for the whole camp with orders that same be
observed hereafter, viz. No man to set fire to prairies. No
man to shoot off a gun in camp without orders. No man
to go hunting unless he is sent and all to keep guns,
swords and pistols out of sight. There was then appointed
a clerk for each fifty as follows : John D. Lee Young, 1st
50; John Pack 2nd 50; Lorenzo Snow 3rd 50; Geo. H.
Hales 4th 50; John Oakley 5th 50; A. Lathrop 6th 50.
The council then adjourned to meet at Shariton Ford
camp-on Monday at 10 A. M. We then returned to our
camp where we arrived just at dark.
SATURDAY, 28TH. In camp making out forms for
clerks of 50's and also copied letter to James Emmet.
SUNDAY, 29rH. Making forms for clerks of 50's
and felt quite unwell all day with bad cola.
MONDAY,, 30rH. Met with the council. The guard
and pioneers were divided and distributed amongst the
several companies of 50's. It was also agreed that com-
pany No. 4 should go on to the next camp tomorrow and
the remainder of the day following. Jackson Redding
sold one of Keller's horses for one yoke of oxen, leaving
me as bad off for teams as before.
TUESDAY, 31 ST. It was concluded we could not get
readv to move until tomorrow. O. P. Rockwell arrived
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 11
with the mail. I received a letter from Diantha and
father. President Young received one from the trustees,
one from Matlock and one from E. Pratt which I read in
council. I was ordered to write an answer to the trustees'
and Matlock's letter, but being late I left it till morning
when I was quite unwell. I got two new teamsters, Levi
Kendall' and Swap.
WEDNESDAY, APRIL IST. President Young also sent
me two yoke of oxen, wagon, and Brother Jones, the
owner, to assist me. We divided the load out of the spare
wagons putting a yoke of oxen to each and about 11 :00
o'clock started on our journey. Mother was very sick,
and could not bear to ride. She walked all the way. I
felt very unwell myself, having much pain in my limbs.
The roads were bad, but we arrived in camp about 2 :00
o'clock and got on good ground. After getting our tents
fixed, fires made, etc., I went to wrestling, jumping etc.,
to try to get well. I over-exerted myself without any
symptons of perspiration and was so sick after I had to
go to bed.
THURSDAY. 2ND. I was very sick all day and un-
able to write the letters or meet with the council. O. P.
Rockwell started back to Nauvoo with letters. One of
the Brother Hales arrived to ,say to his brotner who drives
team for Pitt that his family is very sick and wants him
to go back but we cannot spare the team and he says it is
no use for him to go back without it. At night I wrote
again to Diantha and sent it by Brother Hale who returns
tomorrow.
FRIDAY, 3RD. This morning it was decided to start
early so as to get over the bad roads and also travel about
12 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
fifteen miles. We had to send a wagon and team to fetch
the eight bushels of corn which some^of the band earned
by playing last night. We started, however, about eight
o'clock. The roads were very bad and when we had trav-
eled about three miles it began to thunder and rain. .The
clouds gathered fast and it soon showed signs for heavy
rain the whole day. We reached Bishop Whitney's camp
about noon and rested our teams while the rest came up.
We then started again in the heavy rain and bad roads and
traveled about three miles to Bishop Miller's camp. We
had a very bad bluff to rise and had to double teams to get
up. On the top I -met Heber camped. He selected a
camping ground for us and advised us to go no farther.
President Young has gone on six or seven miles. It was
about 5 :00 o'clock before all our teams got up and it
rained heavily all the time. Mother walked all day again
in the rain. I was very sick myself and unable to do any-
thing. Yesterday the portion of the guard detailed to our
company joined in with us, being Orvil M. Allen and
eight men. They reported themselves destitute of every-
thing and said they had lived a week on corn meal gruel,
Stout and Hunter having made them serve as their body
guard and used them very hard. I dealt out some of my
own flour and bacon to them, determined to comfort
them some if I could and not being willing to see any-
one in our company suffer while I have anything left. It
Continued to rain all night very hard.
SATURDAY, 4xn. This morning all our clothing,
beds and bed clothing were drenched and it has continued
to rain all day. I have been sick again all day especially
towards night. I was so distressed with pain it seemed
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 13
as though I could not live. I went to bed and put a bag
of hot salt on my chest which seemed to give me some
ease but I suffered much through the night, and it con-
tinued to rain until after midnight. We put an extra
cover on our .sleeping wagon, which kept out the rain.
We have only slept in the wagon three nights but have
slept under a tent on the wet ground. Haw's company
are now formed with us, making our 50 nearly complete.
A number of the company feel unwell on account of the
rain and wet.
SUNDAY, STH. This morning I feel a little better
and the day is fine and pleasant. I have spent the day
writing in this journal, having written from memory all
since the date of March 9th. Some of the dates may not
be correct but the matters recorded are true. It is now
1 :00 o'clock P. M. There is a meeting at Elder Kimball's
camp but I am sent here in this wagon to fetch up this
record. My health is somewhat better for which I feel
thankful. Elder Kimball says we had better not attempt
to move tomorrow. We can get corn within ten miles
from here and he will help us to means. We have now
to lay in corn to last till we get to Grand River about fifty
miles farther, there being no farms on the road. On Fri-
day evening I appointed Charles Terry captain of my
ton and Henry A. Terry clerk and my brother James to
attend on my family agreeable with the orders of the
President that I may be able to spend my time writing
for the council and camp and attend councils. Elder Kim-
ball instructed the captains of tens to call their com-
panies together at 4 :00 o'clock. Agreeable with this, the
band assembled in front of mv tent and administered the
14 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
sacrament. \Vm. F. Gaboon and Charles A. Terry offici-
ated. I spoke about three quarters of an hour on various
subjects touching on our journey and the policy we ought
to use, etc. After I had done Elder Haws spoke on some
subjects and the meeting adjourned. The captains then
went over to Elder Kimball's camp about sending foi
corn. We concluded to send four teams for our 50, Cap-
tain Egan and Haws then went through the camp to .see
if they could obtain some money. Haws obtained $31.45
and Egan $9.00. I sent $14.00 by Egan for some. Wrote
to Diantha.
MONDAY, 6TH. It has rained again the last night
and continued to rain all day very heavily. The camp is
very disagreeable and muddy. I spent the day reading.
About 5 :00 o'clock the clouds began to break and it looks
more likely for being fair. In the evening Elder Kimball
came over and the band met opposite Hutchinson's wagon
and played .some. After that the quadrille band met in my
tent and played on the violins. All the time we were play-
ing the lightning occasionally broke forth from the north-
west and at 8 :00 o'clock we dispersed just as the storm ap-
proached. Before I got to my tent the wind arrived and
soon blew a perfect gale with heavy rain, hail, lightning
and thunder. It continued for an hour and then abated
some. All the tents in our company except mine and
Pack's were blown down. The rain beat through the
wagon covers and drenched the families and effects. It
was the most severe storm we have experienced and with
such wind it seems impossible to preserve our little cloth-
ing and provisions from being spoiled. But in the midst
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 15
of all, the camp seems cheerful and happy and there are
but few sick.
TUESDAY, ?TH. This morning it is fair but cold and
windy. The ground is frozen stiff and considerable ice.
Many of the tents are still lying flat and everything
around shows that the storm was very severe. A number
of the ban-d have no meat and some no flour nor in fact
scarcely any provisions and several have had little, only
what I have given them out of the stock I laid in for my
family. I have this morning given the guard the bag of
flour Miller left and a piece of pork and also a piece to
Redding. The day continued fine but roads almost im-
passable. Evening the band played some.
WEDNESDAY, STH. This morning the ground was hard
again. But the weather looks more for rain. I went out
with Captain Cahoon and President Haws to look out a
better camp ground and we concluded to move on a little
farther west about a quarter of a mile. It took the com-
pany all day to move, it being almost impossible to move
the loads even with tripling teams. About five o'clock
Egan and the teams came back with fifty-seven bushels of
corn. He ha-d to give 21c a bushel for nearly all of it.
Elder Kimball came over soon after to see if he could not
get some of it. While we were talking President Pratt
and his company arrived and reported that their teams
have had no corn since yesterday morning neither could
they get any. Heber- remarked that he would say no
more about us letting him have any although we had only
enough to feed five ears a feed every three days, and a
journey of about fifty miles before we can get any more
with bad roads. We let Parlev have one load. Heber
16 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
came with me to our camp and handed me a letter from
President Young requesting us all to go on which I read
to the company. I felt very unwell again and went to
bed early.
THURSDAY, 9iH. This morning we concluded to
pursue our journey, President Kimball and his company
started out about seven o'clock. President Pratt started
out with his company. Our company waited for the lat-
ter to start in its place till after eight o'clock and then
we went on. The roads were very bad indeed. About
noon it commenced raining heavily which made the roads
still worse. We had calculated to go about eight miles to
timber but after toiling till about four o'clock and having
traveled only about five miles and our teams being en-
tirely worn down we turned out of the road to a little
branch of water to camp. Several of my teams stuck
and we had to work till dark to get part of them to
camp and two wagons we were compelled to leave over
night. Quite a number were obliged to stay back on the
prairie and Charles Hale did not come more than a
quarter of a mile from where we started this morning.
Elder Kimball has camped one and a half miles farther
on the open prairie and many of his teams are yet be-
hind. P. P. Pratt's company are here with us as well a<=
George Miller's company except those behind on the
prairie. It continued to rain very heavily until night. We
could not make a fire and had little for supper, our pro-
visions being in one of the wagons back. This is the
most severe time we have had but yet the camp seems
in good spirits.
FRIDAY, lOra. The weather is yet very wet and
WILLIAM' CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 17
gloomy. I spent the morning- talking to Margaret. At
seven o'clock a gale struck up and blew our tents over.
We then concluded to move a few rods lower out of the
wind. Before we got moved the wind moved to the west
and it grew very cold. Our teams are gone back to fetch
some of the wagons left last night. It rains and blows
very badly and is very severe on our women and teams.
Margaret and Lidia are out all the time and continually
wetting both feet and all over. We expect Robert Bur-
ton's, one of Peck's, Peart's and my wagons in to-night.
One of mine was fetched early in the morning. Our
teams fare hard with wet and cold, having very little corn.
SATURDAY, HTH. This morning rode with Egan to
help to get Brother Peart'.s wagon out of the slough. It
took five yoke of oxen and twelve men to -draw it out.
The roads are yet very bad but it is fair and very cold.
We sent twelve yoke of oxen to bring up Peck's and
C'harles Hale's wagon. They got in late at night.
SUNDAY, 12iH. This morning before I got up, P.
P. Pratt called and said that President Young wants the
council to meet at Heber's camp at ten o'clock. I started
out with Captain Egan on foot and arrived in season.
Had some conversation with Ellen Sanders Kimball and
then went to council. It was decided to change our route
and take a more northern one to avoid ttie settlements.
We will go to Grand River and there enclose a space of
land about two miles square and put up some twenty
log houses for a resting place for the companies. A com-
pany starts out in a day or two to seek out the location
amongst whom are the President, Heber and others of
the twelve. A company will also be sent west to Judge
3
18 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Miller's to go to work for feed, etc. After council I book
dinner with Heber, the President being with us. I then
wrote a letter to the trustees and returned with Captain
Egan to our camp and soon after went to bed. The day
has been fine but cold.
MONDAY, 13xH. Finished my letter to Diantha and
then went over to Peck's blacksmith shop. We had con-
cluded not to leave till morning-. While there a message
arrived saying that Haws has sent eight yoke of cattle to
help us on. We then concluded to start forthwith, being
noon. But although we had so many extra teams, we
bad to leave three wagons in camp over night. Four of
my folks walked all the way but .still it was hard for me
to get along. Keller had to stay back over night. I ar-
rived at Locust Creek, being about four miles journey,
about six o'clock and sent the cattle back for Peck and
Steven Hales but they did not return till morning. In
the evening the band played some. James broke his
wagon tongue. We camped a little north of President
Heber's camp.
TUESDAY, HTH. The weather is again very fine. Be-
cause some of the wagons did not come, Egan and I con-
cluded to go and meet them and not start farther until to-
morrow. We met the teams close by and then took a
northern course a hunting. We saw only squirrels and
I got five of them. About noon we returned and found
the camp mostly gone. Orders had come from the Presi-
dent for the whole to move to his camp today. Charles
Terry and Henry were gone a hunting which detained
me till about three o'clock. James and I then started
with the four wagons. They overtook us when we had
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 19
got about one half mile. We found the road very bad
and had to double teams, our horses being so badly worn
down. Charles Terry broke a wagon tongue.
WEDNESDAY, ISxn. Last night I got up to watch,
there being no guard. The cattle and horses breaking
into the tents and wagons. I tarried up then called S.
Hales and Kimball. This morning Ellen Kimball came
to me and wishes me much joy. She said Diantha has
a son. I told her I was afraid it was not so, but
she said Brother Pond had received a letter. I went over
to Pond's and he read that she had a fine fat boy on
the 30th ult., but she was very sick with ague and
mumps. Truly I feel to rejoice at this intelligence but
feel sorry to hear of her sickness. Spent the day chiefly
reading. In the afternoon President Young came over
and found some fault about our wagons, etc. In the
evening the band played and after v/e dismissed the fol-
lowing persons retired to my tent to have a social chris-
tening, viz. William Pitt, Hutchinson, Smithies, Kay,
Egan, Duzett, Redding, William Gaboon, James Clayton
and Charles A. Terry and myself. We had a very pleas-
ant time playing and singing until about twelve o'clock
and drank health to my son. We named him William
Adriel Benoni Clayton. The weather has been fine but
rains a little tonight. Henry Terry's horses are missing
and have been hunted today but not found. This morning
I composed a new song "All is well." I feel to thank
my heavenly father for my boy and pray that he will
spare and preserve his life, and that of his mother and
so order it so that we may soon meet again. O Lord
bless thine handmaid aad fill her with thy spirit, make
20 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
her healthy that her life may be prolonged and that we
may live upon the earth and honor the cause of truth. In
the evening I asked the President if he would not suffer
me to send for Diantha. He consented and. said we
would send when we got to Grand River.
THURSDAY,, 16xH. This morning prepared to pro-
ceed on our. journey but a span of horses in our com-
pany in care of Henry Terry being missing we concluded
not to start. I sent out three men to hunt them. Soon
after they were brought into camp by another person. I
then sent Henry Terry to hunt for the men but it was after
two o'clock before they returned. We fed a little corn and
then started. The company is far ahead of us. We
traveled very slowly our teams were so weak. However,
we soon came into sight of the camp but it was six o'clock
before we got there, having traveled about seven miles.
The camp was formed on a beautiful prairie, President
Young's camp being on a little eminence. President
Kimball's about three quarters of a mile north of his and
ours about a quarter of a mile east. There is some little
grass for our cattle here, but little. We sent those of our
company about a mile southeast and had a guard over
them through the night. President Haws, Captains Egan
and Kay and Jackson Redding went out a hunting.
George Hale's cattle were so worn down that they could
not get along and when within about a mile of camp
about fifteen of the brethren went to help. They took a
rope and fixed it on the wagon, loosed the cattle and
brought it in themselves, singing all the way. At night
the band played and then I retired to bed.
FRIDAY, I7xn. This morning very fine. Some of
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 21
the camp started very early on the way. I was ready
about eight o'clock but was detained on account of Cap-
tain Haws, Egan and others having gone hunting. I left
Margaret to drive my team and sent them on and I drove
the cattle on foot. We formed our encampment on a high
dry place.
SUNDAY, 19xH. While the rest are gone to meeting
I turned to unpacking and took an inventory of church
property. It took till about four o'clock to get through.
Daniel Spencer's company had arrived about five o'clock.
Porter Rockwell and Edwin Cutler arrived with the
mail. Received a letter from Diantha confirming the
birth of my son, also a letter from A. W. Babbit on some
business. Went to see the President to show him the in-
ventory but could not find him. About dark he sent for
me and I went again but he was gone and I did not see
him. My mare got in a mud hole last night and is very
badly strained. Evening went to council and read many
letters and wrote one to Elder Hyde.
MONDAY, 20TH. At nine o'clock went to council.
Had to read some letters and several pieces from papers.
A report was read of all those who are able to fit them-
selves for the mountains. A law was made on motion
of President Young that any person who interrupts the
council hereafter by talking or otherwise, shall be de-
prived the privilege of the council till the council see
proper to admit him. The public teams being brought
together, the bishops took a list of them to be disposed
of at Grand River. After council I went to work to assort
the articles to be sold, etc. Wrote to Diantha.
TUESDAY, 21 ST. This morning the main body of the
22 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
camp are gone, but I am obliged to tarry and pack up
the public goods again and re-load my wagons. I
weighed most of our loads and it took until night to get
through. Charles Terry's horse and one of mine are un-
able to drag any.
WEDNESDAY, 22ND. I had intended to start early
this morning but our horses were away which detained us
till nearly nine o'clock. About that time we started and
traveled slowly about four and a half miles. We then
stopped at 11:30 and thought we would rest our teams
and get them cooled off. The sun was very warm and
they sweat considerably. Word came that O. P. Rock-
well was on his way and would call for letters. We in-
tended to wait until he came. I wrote a short letter to
A. W. Babbit and one to father but Porter failed to call,
and at two o'clock we started again. We traveled until
about three o'clock when we passed Orson Pratt who had
concluded to stay a piece east of where the camp had
tarried last night. He said all the grass was eaten up for
several miles around. We concluded to go beyond the
timber where the main camp stayed last night but tried
to find grass for our teams. We started onward. At
the creek watered our teams and rested awhile. We
then went on about a mile and a half and found good
grass and much of it. We at once concluded to tarry
there. We had put a little wood into our wagons to cook
with. We arrived on the ground about six o'clock and
then got the best camp ground we have had for some
time.
Three of our teams were behind when we arrived.
Horlick got in about a half an hour after us and then
WILLIAM) CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 23
afterwards Swap and Jones arrived at 7 :30 o'clock. We
are all comfortable but very tired, having traveled about
ten miles. My wife Ruth walked all the way and' myself
also. The rest walked by turns. We have seen many
rattlesnakes today. The weather is very fine.
THURSDAY, 23RD. This last night has been very
stormy with heavy thunder, hail, rain and wind. The
thunder and lightning was very loud and the rain fell
in torrents. The weather continues cold and cloudy with
some fine showers. There appears some heavy rain in
the east and north. Grass looks green and the cattle have
filled themselves well. We started about ten o'clock and
soon found that last night's rain had made the roads much
worse. After traveling about four miles we stopped to
graze our teams, being one o'clock. While resting Elders
Taylor and Orson Pratt passed on horseback. At three
o'clock we started again and about four came to the
President's camp. He was just returning from an ex-
ploring tour to find out better roads. His camp was on
the east of a piece of timber. He gave orders to move
to the other side of the timber about a mile from where he
then was. We concluded to move on and finally camped
on the next ridge .southwest of his. Our teams are tired
and there is not much grass. A number of the horses
have been bitten by rattlesnakes and one is dead. There
are a great number of these snakes on these prairies.
The President says the road to the next timber is all
ridges and hollows and will be hard on teams. We got
camped about 5 :30 p. m,, and before we got fixed a
thunder storm came on with heavy rain but it was soon
over and the evening afterwards was fine.
24 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
FRIDAY, 24rn. This morning the President's com-
pany made a bridge over a creek and started again on
their journey. Four of my horses were missing and I
sent men to hunt them and went myself. They were found
about ten o'clock. We tarried until about twelve to rest
and then .started. We went about two miles and stayed
until four o'clock to graze our teams and then went on
again and about six o'clock got to timber. I went to
hunt a camping spot with Egan. We saw some women
who told us Grand River was only a mile ahead and that
the other companies were required to go down there.
We started and soon arrived at the main body of the
camp. We formed on the south side of the camp. The
ground here is rich, timber good, and the prospects good
for heavy crops. Here we calculated to tarry a while,
fence in a piece of land and those who are not prepared
to go through to tarry and raise crops. Wild onions grow
in abundance. The weather has been fine today. Even-
ing those of the band who are here went to Bishop Mil-
ler's tent and played for the President and a Mr. Bryant
who lives about thirty miles from here. Pitt, George,
Charles and Steven Hales and William F. Cahoon art
way back as yet as well as Heber's company.
SATURDAY, 25TK. This morning started by daybreak
fishing. About 7:30 .the President sent for me. I came
back but he was gone. President Haws is regulating the
company to watch our teams and also go to making
rails etc. The morning is fine. About nine o'clock Ken-
dall one of my teamsters, brought one of the horses he
drives into camp which had been bitten by a rattlesnake.
His nose had begun to swell badly. We got some spirits
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 25
of turpentine and bathed the wound, washed his face in
salt and water and gave him some snakes master root
boiled in milk. He yet seems very sick. Our men have
made a pen for the cattle at night. I feel quite unwell to-
day. Spent the day chiefly reading. Evening Kennedy
came to look at our horse and says they have given suf-
ficient of the master root to kill four well horses. The
horse looks very sick and is already scarcely able to stand.
The band played a few tunes at night. About nine o'clock
it rained somewhat and continued to shower through
the night. Pitt arrived in camp this afternoon.
SUNDAY, 26rH. The first news I heard this morning
was that the horse was dead. This is a very unlucky
circumstance for me for I am already very deficient in
teams. Moreover, three of my teams leave me here, viz.
Horlick, Chas. A. Terry and Jones with their wagons
and teams. I shall then have about quarter teams enough
to draw the loads. I have about three thou-
sand pounds of church property besides my own goods.
I see little chance of my moving from here at present.
The morning was wet but it cleared off and continued so
all day. I spent the day reading and writing while the
rest went to meeting. Evening was sent for to go to
council. Read a letter from O. Hyde stating that they
had had an offer of two hundred thousand dollars for
the temple. He writes of hard times in Nauvoo. The
council selected one hundred men to make rails, forty-
eight to build houses ; twelve to dig wells ; ten to build a
bridge and the rest to go to farming 1 .
Steven Markham, C. C. Rich, L. C. Wilson, James
Pace to oversee the rail cutting. Brigham Young, Heber
2f> WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
C. Kimball, P. P. Pratt and Geo. A. Smith the house
building 1 . A. P. Rockwood to boss bridge building. Presi-
dent Young to boss him and the whole camp and Jacob
Peart to boss well digging. The council decided to wait
until morning to decide relative to selling the temple.
After we adjourned I went into my wagon. I wrote a
long letter to Diantha. It was about ten o'clock when T
got through.
MONDAY, 2?TH. Rained all day. At 6:00 a. m.,
went to meeting. The men were divided out to work and
commenced operations and had to quit on account of rain.
After breakfast went to council, when it was voted to
sell the temple, signifying as to the reason, it will be more
likely to be preserved. It is as lawful to sell it to help the
poor saints as to sell our inheritance. We do it because
we are compelled to do it. I was ordered to write an
answer to Elder Hyde's letter which I did. saying finally,
if the temple was sold, $25,000 must be sent for the benefit
of the camp. The balance to be left at the disposal of
elder Hyde, Woodruff and the trustees and to be appro-
priated to help away those who have labored hard to
build the temple and the faithful poor of the saints. Spent
the balance of the day packing up china and crockery to
be sent by Egan.
TUESDAY, 28TH. Weather very wet. Moved up on
higher ground. Spent the morning unpacking chests
for files and supplies. Afternoon unloading wagon to
send a-trading. The weather very wet until night.
President Young called over and said we had better not
send Egan until the weather settles. The quadrille band
have gone to give concerts in the Platte. They had to draw
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 27
their wagons across the river by ropes the water was so
high.
WEDNESDAY, 29TH. It still continues to rain and the
ground is getting quite soft and muddy. Spent the day
setting men to fixing yokes and bows. Walked out about
a mile to the bluff west of us. It ceased raining about
eleven o'clock and continued fair through the day.
TH/TRSDAY, 30rH. Unpacking and re-packing chests
all the day. It continues to rain more or less and the
weather looks bad. Ruth is quite unwell.
FRIDAY, MAY 1. 1846. This month brings the
damp wet weather. Chas. Shumway and George Lang-
ley start for George Herring this morning being instruc-
ted to bring him on to Council Bluffs. Spent the day
preparing for Egan to start trading. He has gone with
Jackson Redding and has taken $288.00 of church prop-
erty besides two span of horses and harness and near
$60.00 of mine. Afternoon packing chests, etc. The
weather finer and fairer.
SATURDAY, 2ND. The day is fine. Preparing some
for Horlick's return to Nauvoo on Monday. Wrote to
Diantha. Selling shoes.
SUNDAY, 3RD. The morning fair, windy and cloudy,
southeast wind. Spent the morning making a list of all
the company who have made their reports, also fixing
tents. At ten o'clock went to meeting. O. Spencer talked
a while and was followed by President Young who ex-
horted the camp to diligence in getting in crops for that
will be our salvation the next winter. He said no com-
pany should start from here until the south field was
made and some houses built. It commenced raining as
28 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
the meeting . closed and about three o'clock a thunder
storm came on which lasted till near five o'clock. I spent
the afternoon reading. Soon after five it cleared off some
and the sun shone again. While at supper President
Young called and stated that he wished that I should
go to council with him. I started and the council met
opposite his tent. It was decided that his- fifty build the
bridge tomorrow and all the rest to make rails and also
that Sherwood and Orson Pratt go about twenty-five or
thirty miles southwest to seek out another section.
MONDAY, 4xH. Finished my letter to Diantha and
sent it by John Richards. Horlick has concluded to tarry
till my wagons are fixed. I spent the day examining my
flour and crackers and helping to fix the tent as consider-
able of my crackers and flour are damaged on account of
having poor wagons. I dreamed last night that I saw
Diantha and her babe. Her babe was dressed in white
and appeared to be lying down with its eyes closed. She
was bent over it apparently in sorrow. When I went to
her she flew to me earnestly but the babe seemed to be
kept still and asleep, and I awoke. This dream has troub-
led me considerably. Evening met the clerks of 50's in
my tent and instructed them how to make their reports,
etc.
TUESDAY, STH. The weather very fine. I spent the
day preparing to enter the reports on the record. Went
over to J. D. Lee's and learned that some of the clerks
had been to the President and told him that I had or-
dered that they should include in their reports each wife
a man has. I did not do any such thing, only re-
quested each name should be in full according to the
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 29
order of a previous council. The President said it did
not matter about the names being in full but I think in
after days it will prove it does. Dr. Richards thinks as
I do. The President, I understand, appeared quite angry.
Many of the band are entirely destitute of provisions
and my flour is so nearly down I have fconcluded to eat
biscuit. I have given the band considerable of my bis-
cuit already. At nine o'clock fixing my wagons. Ex-
pected a storm which soon afterwards commenced, rain-
ing and thundering very hard. Raining most of the
night.
WEDNESDAY, 6TH. Writing in the camp record. In
the afternoon a storm arose emitting very violent wind,
thunder, lightning, rain and hail. Many tents blew over.
One of mine blew over and most of our articles were
wet and some nearly spoiled. I have been informed
that Esther Kay has been offering bitter complaints be-
cause they do not fare as well as some others. The hint
was thrown at Margaret and she understood that it was
for me. I have today let Miss Kay a pair of shoes and
took down a large bag of biscuits and divided it amongst
those who are needy. I have all the time let them have
flour, sugar, bacon and other things as I had them and to
hear of dissatisfaction because I will not let them have
the last I have grieves me. I have given to the band
as near as I can estimate, twelve hundred pounds of
flour, about four or five hundred pounds of bacon besides
much of other things. Towards evening it did not rain so
. much but continued hard after we went to bed. The
wind was very severe, almost as bad as I ever saw it for
about a half an hour.
30 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
THURSDAY, 7xH. This morning it is dull, cloudy and
cold. About nine o'clock commenced raining again. I
have again given Sister Kay a quart cup full of sugar.
I have spent the day entering reports on record.
FRIDAY, STH. The weather fine and pleasant. Spent
the day fixing wagon covers and wagons. Andrew Ca-
hoon arrived from Nauvoo with the mail but no letter
from Diantha or father. He says the troops arrested
O. P. Rockwell last Thursday evening and took him to
Carthage and thence to Quincy jail. It is doubtful
whether he will now escape their cruel vengeance. This
morning the mare had a colt. I have felt quite unwell all
day. Evening went to President Young's to get records
to look for a deed from Hiram Kimball to Ira S. Miles.
Searched till near ten o'clock but the deed is not on rec-
ord. Kimball seems disposed to take all the advantages
he can from everyone.
SATURDAY, 9xn. Morning fixing wagon cover,
counseling with Wm. Cahoon and then was called aside
by the President to read two letters from Sister Harris
and her son. Dr. Richards, John Smith and Heber were
present. Afternoon went fishing. The weather fine and
no wind.
SUNDAY, lOra. Wrote a letter to Diantha, one to
trustees, one to father, one to Brother Burdick, one to
Thos. Moore and one to John Everett. Keller returned
with thirteen bushels of meal and 250 pounds of bacon
from the guard, having been gone twelve days. Evening
went to council to Heber's tent. Samuel Bent having
been appointed at today's meeting to preside over those
left on his arm, he chose David Fullmer and Ezra T.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 31
Benson for counselors. P. P. Pratt was advised to start
as soon as possible for Platte River to take all who were
prepared to go.
MONDAY, HTH. Morning distributing meal and
bacon to the band. Afterwards the President, Heber,
and Dr. Richards came and took some cordage. After-
noon weighing and loading.
TUESDAY, 12-TH. Sent Keller and Corbite to the
mills to try and get flour, meal and two cows. Weigh-
ing and packing. About nine was sent for to go to coun-
cil. I waited about two hours before anything was
done. The vote for Ezra T. Benson to stay as counselor
for father Bent was rescinded and it was voted to take
Aron Johnson in his place. A letter of authority was
written for father Bent by Dr. Richards but he made me
copy it, and afterwards when the President spoke to him
to write to O. P. Rockwell he favored me to do that al-
though I left three men waiting to weigh my loading
and load my wagon. The fact is I can scarcely ever go
to council but Dr. Richards wants me to do his writing,
although I have more writing to do as clerk of the camp
than I can possibly do. Moreover I have to unpack the
chest and wait on all of them with the public goods in
my charge which keeps me busy all the time. Presi-
dent Young, Heber, Dr. Richards and Bishop Whitney
have all made out to get lumber sawed to make their
wagons comfortable but I can't get enough to make a
hind board for one of my wagons, which has none. They
are tolerably well prepared with wagons and teams but
I am here with about five tons of stuff and only six wagons
and five voke of oxen to take it. I have dealt out nearlv
32 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
all of my provisions and have to get more before I can
go on. It looks as if I had to be a slave and take slave's
fare all the journey for it has worked that way so far.
After council I was weighing and loading, etc., until night.
We had some rain at night.
WEDNESDAY, 13xH. The morning fair, but cloudy.
Still loading my wagons and preparing to move. Presi-
dent Young and Heber's companies have gone and left
me. I asked Jones and Terry what provisions I should
have to leave them while they put in the crops. They
concluded that 25 Ibs. of corn meal each, and from 25
to 50 Ibs. of bacon for three of them would be enough for
twenty days. I think so, for we do not use as much meat
in the same time in my whole family and as to 25 Ibs. of
corn meal each for so long a time, it is far more than my
family can have. I have also to supply Horlick with
provisions to take him back to Nauvoo and have kept
four of them since they came here while they are to work
for themselves. All this continues to weaken my hands
for the journey. I have to get three new teamsters and
also feed them while the others are living on my food.
Markham came in the evening and said the President
had sent word to father Bent to raise cattle enough to
take my load to the new place tomorrow morning but I
cannot go because my horses have gone to the mill for
meal. Evening it commenced raining again and rained
nearly all night.
THURSDAY, 14-TH. This morning is fair, but cloudy
and like for more rain. Jones has concluded to leave
for Nauvoo this morning and leave his son to plant for
him. I have given him and Charles A. Terry a letter of
WILLIAM! CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 33
recommendation. Jones asked me and said I would have
to leave him some provisions while he put in his crops
but I do not feel to do it for I think it is far more reason-
able that the company for whom he has been working
should supply him instead of me doing it out of the little
provisions I have. I have left Charles and Henry
Terry 50 Ibs. of meal and 14 Ibs. of bacon besides board-
ing them two weeks while they have been working on
their farm. I went to see Brother Bent about the teams
and from him learned that he could only raise three yoke
of oxen and no wagon. I went to see Crisman who had
promised two yoke and told him I should start in the
morning then went and spent the day fixing the loads,
etc.
FRIDAY, 15'fH. This morning Crisman called and
said he should not let his cattle go until Brother Miller
returned. I then concluded to take what teams I had
and take my wagons and go on a few miles. I borrowed
two yoke of oxen from Sister Kay and started. We got
the wagons over the river and on the bluff about a mile
and then stopped to let the teams feed. I walked on and
met Brothers Miller, Pitt, Kay, and Hutchinson with a
large drove of cows and cattle. I told Brother Miller
my situation and the request of the President but I could
get no satisfaction. We moved on with half of the
wagons and T selected a spot over a quarter of a mile
from timber. They then went back for the otKer wagons
and got them all up about six o'clock. Reddings have come
here also, and Sister Egan with one or two others.
SATURDAY, 16TH. This morning is fine but the
weather doesn't look like being fair long. I have
4
34 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
concluded to send two wagons through and wait until
the teams return before I can move farther. Swap and
Conrad are gone with all the teams I have and I
have sent A. Johnson's cattle back because they were
useless unless I could have more. The day was very
warm. I spent the day mostly reading. Afternoon Du-
zett, Hutchinson and Pitt arrived with their wagons.
SUNDAY, I?TH. Spent the day mostly reading.
Weather very warm. Afternoon Bishop Miller's com-
pany passed but he did not leave me any cattle although
he has plenty and many cows. This agrees with his
course, for from about two months before we left Nauvoo
to the present, he has done nothing but for himself.
MONDAY, ISxn. Morning went on the road about
two miles to see if I could meet Keller and Corbitt. It
rained and thundered ,some and continued cloudy through
the day.
TUESDAY, 19TH. Spent the morning reading, after-
wards went fishing. Some teams returned from camp
and said that some from Nauvoo had arrived there which
started two weeks ago last Saturday and that Elder Hyde
had advised all the saints to move over the river as fast
as possible from Nauvoo, and they have their ferry boats
constantly employed. A number are already on their
way here.
WEDNESDAY, 2Qrii. This morning is very rainy and
cold. Spun twenty yards of fish line and tied on eleven
hooks. Swap and Conrad returned soon after eleven
o'clock. They say the camp is about thirty miles ahead.
They confirm the report of some having arrived from
Xauvoo and say they were told that my father is on his
WILLIAM! CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 35
way here. The roads are lined with teams, etc., on the
other road north of this. Horlick came this afternoon
for more victuals. Although he is a good wagon maker
and carpenter, he is either unwilling to work or the camp
at the farms is unwilling to board him for his work which
I hardly believe. It .seems as though teamsters are re-
solved to live on me till they eat all I have and I now
lack about three thousand Ibs. of provisions to proceed
with. I can learn of no one who has fed his teamsters
as long as I have after they stopped teaming and more-
over, the teamsters .started with church property but I
have sustained them out of my own provisions. Towards
evening it was fair but still threatens to rain again. I
cannot yet learn a word from Diantha but think she must
be on her way. My family is yet in good health except
Margaret who looks sick but doesn't complain.
THURSDAY, 21sr. Continued raining this morning
but about noon it began to be fine. About five o'clock a
heavy thunder storm came up and it started raining
heavily. Storm after storm kept coming far into the.
night. Wilham F. Gaboon called on his way up between
the two companies. He wanted some salt but I had none
for him.
FRIDAY, 22ND. This morning fine but cloudy,
ground wet and soft. Wrote some in the camp record.
About nine o'clock started on the road to look for a good
camp ground. James started at the same time on horse-
back to see if he could meet Keller. I went about three
miles and waited till he returned but no news from Kel-
ler. I concluded to move my camp about three miles and
sent James back to load up and come on. I waited until
36 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
they came. It was after five o'clock before they came up,
the loads being heavy and the teams weak, the loads being
too heavy for them. We are now camped on a very pleas-
ant spot not far from timber. We have camped near the
summit ,of a ridge where we can ,see a long way on both
the roads leading to Miller's mill and to trie next camp.
Soon after we arrived Horace Whitney passed. I sent
word to the President to send me more teams. I told
Horlick we could not board him any longer and gave
him a line to father asking him to board him until he re-
turns. Have borrowed some meal from Edward Martin
to get along. If Keller doesn't come soon we shall have
to obtain something to eat somewhere or go short. We
have nothing left to eat but some corn, and being short
of milk we can not cook it to our advantage. James and I
were consulting just at dusk as to the wisdom of one of
us starting out to try and meet Keller and Corbitt or see
if we could learn something of them. We both felt positive
they had lost their horses. While we were talking we saw
Keller and Horlick riding up from the first farm. From
Keller we learned they had got horses and loads and were
coming on the other road and would wait till we came up
to meet them if we thought best. He said the guard had
all returned and were with the wagons. This was joyful
news to us and I felt my heart much relieved.
SATURDAY, 23RD. James started out early to meet the
wagons. After breakfast we started on the road and
while standing Keller came up and said it was about
four and a half miles to where the other road joins the
main road. I started ahead on foot and after traveling
about three miles came up to the teams where they had
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 37
waited on the road. When I got up the guard seemed
pleased to see me. Captain Allen had bought about
thirty-six bushels of meal and 200 Ibs. of bacon. They
would not receive any pay for it. They have been faithful
and diligent and have done much. There is yet $12.00 due
them from the meal and they are determined I shall have
that too. When my teams came up we put the meal in
the wagons and started on. We went about a mile
farther to Peter's Bridge where we concluded to camp
for the night. We arranged our loading and I concluded
to let Brother Allen have the wagon and team in his
hands which is church property to send back to Nauvoo
for his family. The guard made out a list of provisions
which they wished me to leave them which was indeed
very little. I gave them four pairs of shoes and prob-
ably three bushels of meal which is all the remuneration
they would accept for all they had brought. They
seemed well satisfied.
SUNDAY, 24rH. This morning I gave certificates
of discharge to A. Keller, John Horlick, Orville Allen,
M. A. Dodge, Tollman, Starks, Mecham, Bartlet and P.
R. Wright. Keller and Horlick started immediately for
Xauvoo and Wright and Dodge soon after. I concluded
to move on about two miles to where Hutchinson and
Duzett were in camp. I started out on foot and most of
my family soon after. It soon began to rain and rained
till I was wet through. I traveled on about four and
a half miles but could see no camp near timber. I
stopped to rest at a post put up by Stewart where the
Racoon fork led off. While there Josiah Arnold passed
on his way to Miller's. From him I learned that there
38 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
was a camp ground about a half a mile farther. I went
on and waited. Before any of the wagons arrived James
came up. Soon after news arrived that Swap had broke
his wagon tongue. I sent James to help bring on the
loads. We only started with three wagons and left three
back with Corbitt and Martin. The teams worked hard
all day and at half past nine the last team arrived having
taken all day to travel about five miles.
MONDAY, 25TH. This morning I sent James and
Corbitt to go and trade three horses and some harness
for cows. About noon I started out with two wagons
and left ,one and about three loads of stuff in care of two
of the guard. After we had traveled about three miles I
met a messenger from the camp who handed me two let-
ters, one was from Diantha and one from Brother Whit-
aker concerning a piece of land. We went on about a
mile and crossed a creek where we waited to rest our
teams. When I read Diantha's letter it gave me painful
feelings to hear of her situation. After resting about an
hour we went on about four miles farther and camped
near Father Baker's camp on a creek. It was night be-
fore we got supper over. I found several men going back
to Nauvoo for their families.
TUESDAY, 26xH. Wrote an answer to Whitaker's
letter and also one to Diantha. We started on about eight
o'clock and found the road bad and many bad creeks
where the bridges had been washed away. After travel-
ing two miles one of my wagons loaded with corn meal
was upset in a hole. But after about an hour's labor we
got the loading in. The wagon was not much damaged.
We proceeded about three miles farther and met two
WILLIAM] CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 39
men with six yoke of oxen which President Young had
sent to meet us. This was a great relief to us for we saw
that we could not get to camp to-day because of our
teams being so worn down. We rested our teams about an
hour and then started on at a good pace. We found
several more very bad creeks to pass but we did not have
much difficulty. Duzett and myself drove the cows. Ed-
ward Martin drove his horses. About sundown we ar-
rived in camp, having traveled about thirteen miles. This
place is called Mt. Pisgah and is a very beautiful situa-
tion, the prairie rolling and rich, skirted with beautiful
groves of timber on the main fork of the Grand river.
Soon after we arrived Elder Kimball came to welcome us
to camp and then came Elder Richards and family and
President Young who all seemed glad to see us in camp.
WEDNESDAY, 27xn. This morning my horses and
one cow and .several of the oxen are missing. I went to
see Bishop Whitney about getting teams to send back for
the loads remaining but could get no satisfaction from
him. I went back and unloaded two wagons on the
ground and about the same time saw the President who
said he would send for them. Elder Kimball sent one
wagon and the President sent two. President Young said
they intended to take the church property in their wagons
and take it on to Council Bluffs but I must go with them
and leave James and Corbitt and Egan to bring on the
wagons they have, etc. I cannot think they under-
stand my situation in regard to the teams or they would
make some definite move about it. They intend to start
in a day or two and T tried to fix the wagons in good
order but had no chance to get even one fixed. Spent
40 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
the day fixing up my tent and had to get a new pole.
Heber took my other one. Afternoon it commenced
gathering for a storm and we had barely time to get the
tent up and the things tinder it before it began to rain
and continued till I went to sleep. George Herring and
Snumway arrived here last night. I spoke with them to-
day.
THURSDAY, 28TH. The morning dull and foggy,
ground wet, etc. Went fishing some. Evening played
with Hutchinson and Pitt. All my oxen, horses and the
cow were found. I went out this morning hunting for
them on foot. Evening raining.
FRIDAY, 29TH. The weather fine, cool, and windy.
Talked with Heber some. He says I shall have teams.
One of my wagons came in this morning.
SATURDAY, SOrn. Went and borrowed a robe and
ornaments from Aaron Farr then rode with Dr. Richards
about three miles on the prairie. There were five others
and among them President Young. Two tents were
brought and we fixed them up and then met and clothed.
There were President Young, P. P. Pratt, J. Taylor, Geo.
A. Smith, A. Lyman, John Smith, N. K. Whit'iey. D.
Spencer, O. Spencer, C. C. Rich, E. T. Benson, Wm.
Huntington and myself. Clothed and having offered up
the signs, offered up prayer, Heber C. Kimbal- being
mouth. We then conversed awhile and appeared again,
Geo. A. Smith being mouth A. P. Rockwoocl and Wm.
Kimball were guarding the tent. Prayers were offered
that we might be delivered from our enemies and have
teams to go on our journey, etc. About two o'clock we
returned to camp. Many of the teams w r ere coming in
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 41
and among- the rest, the teams sent back for my loading
which all arrived tonight.
SUNDAY, 31sr. Having- heard that Egan was near I
started out to meet him. The morning was fine but about
eleven o'clock it began to thunder. I went about two
miles and before I got back without seeing Egan it rained
heavily. I was wet through. I called at the meeting 1 while
President Young was speaking. It rained nearly all the
afternoon. Noal Richards died.
MONDAY, JUNE 1, 1846. Was wet in the morning
and windy all day. The council got me four wagons and
seven yoke of oxen to take church property.
TUESDAY, 2ND. Still windy but fair. President
Young has again stated I lack some cattle yet. Fixing
my wagon, etc. Have about teams enough but lack
teamsters.
WEDNESDAY, 3RD. Fixing my wagons. Concluded
to start on. My teams were scattered but we .started with
what we had. We got over the river at three o'clock,
one yoke of cattle still missing. I sent the men hunting
for them but they were not found.
THURSDAY, 4TH. Again sent the men hunting cat-
tle. The day was very cold and windy, almost as cold as
winter. I spent the day fixing a wagon for Diantha ex-
pecting her on in about two weeks. Lucy Walker called
in this afternoon and expressed sorrow on account of the
treatment of Heber's family toward her. Amos Fielding
called on his way to the President's camp. Towards
evening it rained and there was one of the most beautiful
rainbows I ever saw in my life. We could see its bril-
liant reflection within a few rods of us. In the evening
42 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Douzett came for his cow which had tarried with ours.
He concluded to stay over night. My teamsters returned
without finding" the cattle.
FRIDAY, STH. Sent all the men expect James Doug-
las to hunt the cattle. About nine o'clock my adopted
son Thomas Corbich returned with them. I then waited
till two o'clock for the men to return, three of them being-
still absent. I have now eleven wagons, sixteen yoke
of oxen, six cows, five horses, and six teamsters, besides
my brother James, whose names are Conrad Neil, Levi N.
Kendall, James Douglas, Milton F. Bartlett. Willard
Smith, and A. E. Hinkel, four of the latter are new to me
and do"ot seem to know much about teaming. At two
o'clock I concluded to start on and after about an hour's
preparation we started. The men took two teams each.
I drove the cows on foot. The roads are a great deal bet-
ter. We traveled about six miles and camped on a hill
beyond nice timber. Pitt is here and Brother Taylor's
camp. Amos called on his way back to England. He
stayed and conversed a while. I will here say that the
oxen put in by Brothers Olive and Rich to take church
property are very poor and some of them scarcely of any
use. We arrived here about half past six o'clock. The
day has been cold, fine and fair.
SATURDAY, 6rH. The morning very fine. We started
out at eight o'clock: Pitt joined with us. I went on
foot to drive the cows. About ten o'clock we had a little
rain. After traveling about seven miles we arrived at a
piece of timber where the patriarch John Smith was rest-
ing. We concluded to rest our teams here and stopped
at half past eleven. At one o'clock we started again and
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 43
soon after had a heavy thunder shower. I was about a
mile ahead of the wagons and having no shelter was soon
completely drenched with rain. It got very cold while
raining. As .soon as the wagons came up we stopped
till the shower was over which did not last long. We then
pursued our journey and at six o'clock camped on the
open prairie a long way from timber, having traveled
about sixteen miles. After the shower the day was fine.
I was very tired and wet and after eating a little went to
bed. Vilate Ruth is weaning from the breast today which
makes her cry.
SUNDAY, ?TH. Inasmuch as we were not near tim-
ber we concluded to travel on till we found some. We
started at eight o'clock and traveled till two, being about
nine miles, when we came to a little grove of timber and
just beyond a bad bottom of prairies. I concluded to pass
this and camp on the adjoining ridge. I drove the cows
all day on foot.' My feet were sore and blistered. The day
was very fine. Sometime after we arrived Father John
Smith came and camped just below us.
MONDAY, STH. The weather fine. Traveled about
ten miles, the roads being very hilly and uneven. We
camped on a bottom near timber. I went fishing and had
good success. I drove the cows till noon then rode with
family.
TUESDAY, 9xn. Weather fine and hot. Went fish-
ing at daybreak with James and had good luck. At nine
we went on. I rode again. Afternoon three Indians over-
took us and begged some bread. We camped on a bot-
tom beside Coleman and others, having traveled about
twelve miles. Two Indians are here and we have learned
44 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
their camp is only three miles from us. President Young
left word to go in companies from here to avoid being
plundered by the Indians. We had our cattle tied up
and a guard over them through the night.
WEDNESDAY, lOrii. Went fishing at daybreak and
caught thirty-six. Weather hot. We started about nine
o'clock and found the roads good but over hills and ra-
vines all the day. At six o'clock we camped in sight of
the Pottawattamie Indian village. When about two miles
from it they discovered us coming and we soon saw a
number of them riding towards us. Some had bells on
their horses which frightened our horses and cattle.
James and I took the horses and let the others take the
oxen the best way they coukl. Some of the Indians fol-
lowed our wagons and inquired often for whiskey. We
had to pass some timber and a river before we arrived
at their village which is situated on a very beautiful ridge
skirted by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. Before
we arrived at the timber it seemed that the whole village
had turned out, men, women, and children, some on
horses and many on foot. Their musicians came and
played while we passed them. They seemed to escort
our wagons and asked if we were Mormons. When we
told them we were they seemed highly pleased. It took
us some time to cross the bridge over the river and then
we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from
curiosity and friendship. They watched us cross the
bridge and others followed on with us. The boys seemed
to learn the words our teamsters used to drive the cattle
and would run and in their way help to drive. They mani-
fested every feeling of friendship and nothing unkind
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 45
or unfriendly transpired. Soon after we passed the
bridge we were met by Jas. W. Cummings and the breth-
ren from Shariton Ford with John L. Butler to bring
Emmet's company to meet us. The cattle have been with
Emmet's company from the time they left Nauvoo. The
road leads within about two hundred yards of the In-
dians and I wanted to go about two miles farther to save
the necessity of having a guard but soon after we left the
village we had to ford a stream which was -deep and bad
to cross. I then concluded to camp on the ridge above
the ford and in sight of the village, being about a half
or three quarters of a mile from them. Many of them
followed us, men, women and children and watched all
our movements but about dark all departed in peace.
They seemed well pleased with their visit. They
certainly showed every mark of friendship ana
kindness imaginable and treated us as brothers. We
learned that the chief's daughter was buried today. We
have, traveled about fifteen miles. From Cummings we
learned that Emmet had left his things belonging to the
company with him. Part of the company has crossed at
St. Louis and are now on the line here. The agent of
the U. S. refuses to let them pass. The other part of the
company are thirty miles below the bluffs expecting u<
to cross there.
THURSDAY, HTH. Many of the Indians again came
to the camp with the same friendly feeling. Some squaws
came to trade. We started soon after nine, the weather
being very hot. We traveled over about five miles of very
uneven road. The rest was good. We had to travel till
late before we came to water. We camped on a small
46 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURi\ r AL.
creek where Coleman and Tanner were camped, having
traveled about fourteen miles.
FRIDAY, 12xH. Traveled about three miles, the
weather being very hot. We camped on a beautiful ridge
where the main body had evidently left but little before,
beside a large rapid stream. I concluded to .stay here
until Monday to rest our teams and give their shoulders
a chance to heal, several of which were very sore.
SATURDAY, 13iH. Fixing a wagon, etc. The
weather very hot. Evening killed one of our cows. The
mosquitoes here began to be very troublesome, there
being so many of them and so bloodthirsty.
SUNDAY, 14TH. The weather very hot and the mo-
squitoes tremendously bad. This morning I weighed
bread for each man at the rate of a half a pound a day.
They seem very much dissatisfied and growl to each other
very much. I weighed for my family of ten as much as
I weighed for six teamsters. They were dissatisfied but
we had some left. They have hitherto had all they wanted
three times a day and above this have eaten up a bag of
crackers unknown to me which I had reserved for the
mountains. The mosquitoes being so bad, I concluded
to go on a little piece. We started at 1 :00 P. M. and
traveled until four when we arrived at a small clear
stream having traveled about six miles. I camped here
and in the evening told the men a part of what I thought
of their conduct.
MONDAY, ISxn. The morning cooler but mo-
squitoes bad. Our horses were missing and we were de-
tained till ten o'clock before we could start. The horses
had gone back to where we left yesterday. We traveled
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 47
till sundown before we came to water, being about twelve
miles. We camped near to C. L. Whitney.
TUESDAY, 16xH. Started at 7.30 and traveled about
twelve miles when we came in sight of the Missouri river
and the main camp about five miles farther. We soon
learned that some of the camp were coming back to find
water. There being no water where we were, we moved
back about two miles to a spring and there camped ex-
pecting to stay until we should learn what to do.
WEDNESDAY, 17xH. This morning Kay and Du-
zett rode up and said they were anxiously expecting us
at the camp and wanted us to go immediately. I went
to the camp with them to look out a place while my men
yoked up and brought the wagons. When I arrived I
saw Heber. He seemed pleased to see me and went with
me to look out a place to camp. I fixed a spot between
President Young's camp and Bishop Miller's. Heber
said the twelve had an invitation to go to the village to
the agent's to dinner and they wanted the band to go
with them. I went back to meet the wagons which had
been detained on account of some of the cattle being
missing. As soon as my wagons arrived I got ready
and started in Heber s carriage with Heber, Bishop Whit-
ney, and Smithies. Edward Martin, Pitt, Hutchinsoo, Kay
and Duzett rode in the other carriage. When we arrived
at Mr. Mitchell's, the agent's place, we were introduced
to him one by one. We then played and Kay sang until
about five o'clock when we returned. This Village is sit-
uated but a little distance from the river, probably fifty
rods. It is composed of twelve or fifteen blocks, houses
without glass in the windows, and is tfie noted place
48 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
where the Lamanites for years held their council. The
inhabitants are composed of Lamanites, half breeds and
a few white folks. I had an introduction to Sarrapee an
Indian trader. We arrived home just at dusk.
THURSDAY, 18-m. Fixing a wagon all day. Even-
ing went fishing. Spoke to Bishop Whitney about some
more teams.
FRIDAY, 19rii. Fixing wagons and preparing to
send off some things to trade. Evening went fishing'.
Went with the band to hold a concert at the village. Many
went from the camp. The Indians and half breeds col-
lected $10.10 and gave it to us an<] the agent Mr. Mitchel
gave a dinner to all that came.
SUNDAY, 21 ST. At home until evening. At 5 :00 met
with the brethren of the camp and acted as clerk while
they selected men to build the boat.
MONDAY, 22ND. Fixing my wagons. The day was
windy and cold. I was informed yesterday that Diantha
is twenty miles back from Mt. Pisgah with her father
still farther back. They have sent her chest on to Pisgah
and she is with Loren. I partly made up my mind to
start in the morning and bring her.
TUESDAY, 23RD. This morning I got my food
ready to start after Diantha but Vilate Rutrl seemed quite
sick and I concluded not to start. We took the teams
and went to the village to pick gooseberries but it rained
nearly all the time we were gone. I bought a scythe and
some other" things and tried to trade a watch for a yoke
of cattle. Major Mitchel offered me three yoke for the
gold watch. We got home about 3 :00 o'clock. I then
went and told the President about Mitchel's offer and he
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 49
told me to sell it. It was so cold and wet and windy we
went to bed early and soon after we got to bed, Heber
and Dr. Richards came to my wag-on with two letters
from Diantha, one dated Nauvoo, May 17, 1846, the other
Big Prairie, June 18th. She tells that she is sent on by
her father and is with Loren and is very anxious that I
should bring her or send for her. I made up my mind
to start tomorrow. The night was very stormy with
strong winds and heavy rains.
WEDNESDAY, 24xH. The morning wet and cold. I
went over to President Young and told him where I was
going and what for. He said he would get the cattle
for me. I also spoke to Heber and he said: "Go and
prosper." At 11:00 I went to council and President
Young, Kimball and Taylor concluded also to go to
Pisgah after the cannon. I started at two o'clock ; t
then being fair. At five o'clock I passed Father Knowl-
ton's company thirteen miles from camp and at seven
passed Laharpe's company and inquired of Brother
Burgharri and Freeman about Diantha but could not learn
much from them. Brother Ezra Bickford was here on
his way back to Nauvoo. He said he was tired from
riding on horseback and asked if I would let him go
with me to Pisgah and use his horse in the wagon. 1
told him to come on. I soon found it made a difference
in the load. We went on about two miles and stopped
at dark on the middle of the prairie near no water. After
feeding we lay down to rest. We had several heavy
showers through the night.
THURSDAY, 25xn. This morning arose at four
o'clock and moved our wagon a little to fresh grass to let
50 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
the horses feed, they being" tied to it. It is fair, but
cloudy. We started again at 5 :30 A. M., traveled till 10 :00
then rested till 2 :00 and then traveled until dark, making
thirty-one miles. We camped just beyond the Indian vil-
lage in the midst of a severe thunder storm. It rained
most of the day and the roads were bad.
FRIDAY, 26TH. Did not start until after seven.
Morning fair, roads bad. After traveling about ,six miles
we found Horace Clark and others camped on one
side of a small stream and Orson Spencer on the other
side. The creek was full of water to the bank and in the
deepest place about six feet over the bridge and a part
of the bridge washed away. We tarried until 3 :00 o'clock
and then concluded to try to get over. Walter L. Davis,
and Wm. D. Huntington volunteered to help us over. We.
unloaded the wagon box for a boat, taking a few of our
things over at a time. When we got them all over we
swam the horses over, loaded up, and at 5.00 o'clock
started again and went till near nine having traveled about
sixteen miles.
SATURDAY, 27xn. The day was fine and we traveled
about thirty-eight miles and camped on the prairie about
eight miles from Pisgah. During the day we passed some
U. S. officers on their way to see President Young and the
council. W r e afterwards learned that they professed to
be going to the authorities of the church by order of the
President of ihe United States to raise five hundred vol-
unteer Mormons to defend Santa Fe, etc.
SUNDAY, 28TH. At daybreak it rained again. W T e
started at four o'clock and arrived at Pisgah at eight.
Had some conversation with Father Huntington and C. C.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 51
Rich. We fed and at nine .o'clock started again. We
soon ,saw Brother Woodruff. He was glad to see me and
we conversed together some time. From him I learned
that Missouri had sent up a committee to Pisgah to search
for forts and cannon, etc. He says the Missourians are
terrified and many are moving from the back to the in-
terior settlements. He also stated that we have a
friend in the British Parliament and the British had held
a private council in relation to the treatment of the U. S.
towards us. Britain is making great preparations for
war. They have sent ten thousand troops to Canada and
a fleet around Cape Horn to Oregon. They are intend-
ing to arm the slaves of the south and have their agents
in the Indian country trying to bring them in war to fight
the U. S. After we left Elder Woodruff we passed on
and soon met Sister Durpee and Brother Lott and his
company. He said Diantha was back about four miles.
Soon after we met Orville Allen and from him learned
that Diantha was back at least twelve miles. We con-
tinued on and at two o'clock fed. We arrived at Father
Chase's between four and five o'clock. Diantha was very
glad to see me and burst into tears. My little boy is far
beyond all my expectations. He is very fat and well
formed and has a noble countenance. They are both
well and I feel to thank my heavenly Father for his mer
cies to them and Father Chase and to his family and may
the Lord bless them for it, and oh Lord, bless my family
and preserve them forever. Bless my Diantha and my
boy and preserve their lives on the earth to bring honor
to Thy name and give us a prosperous journey back again
is the prayer of thy servant William. Amen. At night
52 WILLIAM CLAYTOIs'S JOURNAL.
we had a heavy thunder storm. It rained very heavily.
MONDAY, 29xn. The morning is cool and cloudy,
the ground very wet. Brother Bickford is gone to Nau-
voo. Left Father Chase's company about 10.30 A. M.
They kindly furnished us with bread stuffs sufficient to
last us to camp. We arrived at Mt. Pisgah and .stayed
near Father Huntington's.
TUESDAY, 30rn. This morning in council with Pres-
ident Huntington, Rich and Benson until nine o'clock A.
M. Took breakfast with Elder Rich and then started on.
We passed Brothers Woodruff, and Lott and their com-
panies about twelve miles -from Pisgah. After traveling
about twenty-six miles we turned onto the big prairie for
the night. The weather fine and roads good.
WEDNESDAY, JULY 1, 1846. P. P. Pratt passed
about six o'clock. We afterwards learned that he was
going on express to Pisgah to raise the 500 volunteers to
go to Santa Fee. After traveling about seven miles \vc
rested with Brother Weeks and ate breakfast, then went
on till two o'clock and stopped to feed. We continued on
till dark, having traveled about seventeen miles.
THURSDAY, 2ND. Having lost the horses during the
night I went back four miles to hunt them. I met some-
one and enquired about them, asking if he had not seen
them. Went back to camp and ate a little and afterwards
found them about a mile west. We started about ten
o'clock and at sundown passed the Indian village and the
stream at which we previously camped. We camped
about two miles west of the Indian village.
FRIDAY, SRD. Started early and went about four
n iles to a creek where we ate breakfast. The day very
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 53
hot but we traveled about twenty-five miles. We met
President Young, Heber Kimball, and Dr. Richards going
back to raise volunteers. They feel that this is a good
prospect for our deliverance and if we -do not do it we are
downed. We went on and camped near Hiram Clark
and took supper with him.
SATURDAY, 4xH. This morning my horses were
missing and five from Clark's company were missing. I
found them a little west of the camp and started on.
Diantha having eaten nothing this morning I tried to buy
some bread but could not get it till I got home. I ar-
rived at three o'clock and found my little Vilate sick, the
rest all well. I went over to Council at Captain Allen's
tent.
SUNDAY, STH: At home all day. Conrad has left
and gone to Elder Hyde's. The weather is very hot. My
traders have got back and brought twenty bushels of
corn, but only one of wheat.
MONDAY, 6xH. Spent the day fixing wagons. Day
very hot. Bishop Whitney called to see us. They are
getting over the river as fast as possible but it is slow
work.
THURSDAY, 9xH. Spent the two previous days fix-
ing wagons and today \ went down to the river to see
about crossing, etc. Took my family with me.
FRIDAY, lOm. Fixing my wagons, also Saturday
unpacked the dry goods wagon and repacked it.
SUNDAY, 12TH. Went to the meeting at Elder Tay-
lor's camp. In the evening President Young, Kimball
and Richards returned. They requested me to go to
Taylor's to council. I went and tarried till dark, wrote
54 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
a letter to the Quadrille band to meet tomorrow also
wrote orders for all the men in camp to meet.
MONDAY, 13xH. Went to the general meeting and
played with the band and then kept minutes. They got
three companies of 43 each and half of a fourth com-
pany. All my teamsters have enlisted. I am now desti-
tute of help. Edward Martin is advised to go and leave
his family in my charge. I have still four yoke of oxen
missing and I do not know where to find them. Last
night James was seized with a fit and is quite unwell to-
day, mostly insensible. Yilate Ruth is quite sick and on
the whole my situation is rather gloomy. The meeting
adjourned at five till tomorrow at eight, after which the
company danced till dark.
TUESDAY, 14rH. I went over to meeting this morn-
ing and told the President my situation. He consented
for me to go back to my camp to see to things. I came
back but feel very unwell. Martin's youngest child died
at 1 :30 p. m.
WEDNESDAY, ISxn. Went with Edward Martin to
bury his child on a high bluff south of the camp. We
buried it between two small oak trees, a little east of
them, the babe's head to the east. After returning Heber
sent word for us to cross the creek to the other bluff
where Elder Taylor is camped. We got some of the
cattle together and took part of the wagons over and
then returned for the remainder. As soon as we got
there a message came that the President wished the
band to go to the village. We accordingly started but
when we got there we found nobody there and after a
little trading we returned home.
\VILLIA\D CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 55
THURSDAY, 16TH. Hunting my horses to take
Diantha to see her father's folks who arrived yesterday.
In the afternoon we started out and went about three
miles from here. They appeared very glad to see us. We
got home again at dark.
FRIDAY, I/TH. Went fishing.
SATURDAY, 18TH. Went to the village to play with
the band for the volunteers. They danced till near sun-
down when we returned home.
SUNDAY, 19xH. In the wagon till evening. Sister
Farr came to see us. Diantha and I went home with her
in the evening.
MONDAY, 20rn. In the morning fixing for our con-
cert. Afternoon the band came with their wives and we
played and danced till dark. President Young made some
appropriate remarks exhorting the saints to prayer, etc.
TUESDAY, 21sr. This morning it rained very heavily.
Went to council at Elder Pratt's camp. The council ap-
pointed a council of twelve to preside here, viz. Isaac
Moreley, Geo. W. Harris, James Allred, Thos. Grover,
Phineas Richards, Herman Hyde, Wm. Peck Andrew H.
Perkins, Henry W. Miller, Daniel Spencer, J. H. Hales
and John Murdock. I wrote a letter informing them of
their appointment also instructing them not to let any pass
over the river unless they could be in time to go to Grand
Island and cut hay, to watch over the church, establish
schools for the winter, etc. I spent the remainder of
the day at the creek. I asked the President what I should
do but could get no answer. I have not been able to get
any satisfaction from any of the council as to what I
should do and am totally at a loss to know whether to
56 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
tarry here or go on. My provisions are nearly out and
my teamsters all gone and nearly all the cattle strayed
away, and no one to hunt them except James and Corbitt
and they are sick.
WEDNESDAY, 22ND. Fixing a wagon for Margaret
and re-loading some wagons.
THURSDAY, 23RD. Unpacking church property.
Found considerable of it very much damaged with wet.
I put it out and dried it well and repacked it. Evening
went with Diantha to see her folks.
FRIDAY, 24xn. Regulating the loading, etc.
SATURDAY, 25TH. Bought 357 pounds of flour HI
$2.50 per hundred and carried it about three hundred
yards to my wagons then spent the day fixing wagon
covers. Evening went to Brother Farr's. About 11 :00
o'clock a storm arose and it soon began to rain heavily
and a while after blew a perfect hurricane. The thunder
was awful and the rain poured in torrents for about a half
an hour.
SUNDAY, 26'fH. This morning the tent is down,
wagons drenched and everything looks gloomy enough.
Scarcely a tent in the camp was left standing and many
wagon covers torn. A report is circulated that a cow
was killed by lightning. Much damage is done to wagons,
provisions, etc. The cow was killed about 200 yards
west of my wagons. There was a tent struck also but
no persons hurt. I went to meeting and heard Benson
and Taylor preach. Afternoon at my wagons. Even-
ing Bishop Whitney, President Young and Kimball
called. I made out a bill of goods for them to send east
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 57
by Robert Pierce. They ordered me to go down to the
river tomorrow.
MONDAY, 2?TH. Loading wagons, packing, etc.,
preparing to start. Last night I engaged Pelatiah Brown
as a teamster. We started soon after noon. I drove the
cows and James, Corbitt and Brown the teams with twelve
wagons. We had to leave one cow four yoke of oxen
and two horses on the ridge, being missing. We got
down about six o'clock. Bishop Whitney passed anr]
said I should not get over the river tomorrow and I sup-
pose we shall have to wait some days. James and Cor-
bitt are both sick and discouraged on account of having
so little help and so many cattle, etc., to look after. They
have a hard time of it but I can see no prospects of its
being better.
TUESDAY, 28xn. James and Corbitt started back to
hunt the cattle. I went to the village and received $12.00
of Larpey for the cordage I sold to Allen, $3.50 is yet
my due. I then went and bought some flour of Tanner.
While we were weighing it a storm arose and it rained
and thundered and lightninged throughout the day and
nearly all night. I have not seen more rain fall in a long
time.
WEDNESDAY, 29xn. Got the balance of the flour
making 889 Ibs., most of it at $2.50 and 200 Ibs. at $2.00.
Afternoon went to 'the village with Alice, Diantha. and
Margaret. There saw President Young and Heber. They
have just bought a pony and some cloth, etc., and seem
to have money enough but there is none to buy me flour.
T yet lack about a ton.
THURSDAY, 30iH. At home all day. Unpacked
58 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
mother's wagon and found many things wet and dam-
aged.
FRIDAY, 31sT. Attending to wagons, cattle, etc., all
day.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 1, 1846. This morning I went
to the river to see how soon we could cross and learned
there was a prospect of our crossing this evening or to-
morrow morning. I then went back to my camp and
we started with the wagons a few at a time. My brother
James is lame in bed. Pitt is lame. Brown is lame and
Corbitt nearly spent. About noon we got all the wagons
to the river and Corbitt returned to take the cattle to
grass. I went to Larpey's and got the balance of the
money then went to Mitchel's to try to trade my music
box for a cow but did not succeed.
SUNDAY, 2ND. Preparing to cross the river. Pelat-
iah Brown went swimming all the forenoon and when
Corbitt asked him to help with the teams he swore he
would not if Jesus Christ would ask him. I told him
if he did not feel like helping us he could go somewhere
else, I did not want him. He went and I am again left
without a teamster. I will here say that Brown will not
work only when he has a mind to and during the last
week when James and Corbitt and Pitt were all gone
he would go to the river swimming instead of attend-
ing to the cattle and I may as well be without a teamster
as have a man who will go away in a cramp. About noon
we crossed three wagons over and kept to work until we
had got them all over which took us till dark. We had
to crowd our wagons together in the road just above the
river on account of its being stopped up by other wagons.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 59
We could not get our cattle to grass and they have had
none since last night, but having a few bushels of corn
we gave them five ears a piece. After supper I went
fishing with Wm. F. Cahoon and others until two o'clock
but had very poor luck.
MONDAY, SRD. Started this morning to get our
wagons on the prairie. The road is very narrow and bad,
up steep bluffs and very muddy. It took four yoke of
oxen to take a very light load. When we had got four
of the wagons up eight yoke of Bishop Whitney's cat-
tle came to help us and afterwards nine yoke of President
Young's and Kimball's. We got to the prairie about noon
and stopped to feed our cattle. I sent on five wagons
with the teams sent to help us and after feeding about an
hour started with the remainder. I drove the spare cat-
tle and horses. We got the wagons to camp about six
o'clock. One of President Young's oxen killed himself
when going to drink, being so eager he pitched into the
creek and broke his neck. When we got to camp we
were all completely tired. My feet were sore and my
limbs ached and had to go to bed. We camped on the
north end of Heber's company. We have left nine head
of cattle over the river yet and there is little prospect of
being able to find some of them.
TUESDAY, 4xn. This morning Heber's company have
moved on about two days journey and again left me
here alone. I loaned C. L. Whitney three yoke of oxen
to help him through. They are gone to find a place
within thirty miles of here to winter. I spent the day do-
ing little, being so unwell.
WEDNESDAY, STH. Moved down a little nearer
60 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
water. There spent the day fixing Ruth's wagon. Cor-
bitt has gone over the river to hunt cattle and in the
evening returned with one yoke.
THURSDAY, 6xH. Putting covers on Margaret's and
mother's wagons, etc. Afternoon writing copy of the re-
turns of companies.
FRIDAY, ?TH. Spent the forenoon writing copy of
return of companies of the U. S. army. About noon two
of Heber's teamsters came with some cattle to help me
to the main camp. I left off writing and went to putting
the wagons in order. While fixing a chicken coop I
struck my forehead with a hammer which disabled me
from work the remainder of the day.
SATURDAY, STH. This morning we arose about three
o'clock and while some took the cattle to graze the rest
got the wagons loaded, etc., ready to start. We got
away soon after sunrise. I rode a mule and drove the
cows. We traveled about nine miles before we came to
any water. Here we took the teams from the wagons to
a spring about a quarter of a mile from the road. The
cattle seemed tired but one of the teamsters said it was
only about three miles farther and should soon be there.
We concluded to go on without stopping to feed. But
before we had proceeded far some of the cattle gave out,
the day being very hot, and before we got to camp sev-
eral yoke gave up entirely and were left on the road and
brought afterwards. One of the cattle died almost as
soon as they took him from the wagon, being about a
mile from camp. Two or three others were not ex-
pected to live. When we arrived Heber wanted us to
form on his north line but we could only get half of our
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 61
wagons into the space left for the whole of them. I then
moved over to the south side and formed next to D. Rus-
sell. We got our tent up but can have no fire until Mon-
day. The cattle are so tired we will not use them. I
feel about sick myself. Heber's camp is formed in a kind
of parallelogram, each wagon camped in a perfect line
with the others. The square in the center is about
twenty-five rods long and fifteen rods wide.
SUNDAY, 9TH. Writing copy of return of compan-
ies of U. S. army all day.
MONDAY, 10xH. Attending to various business about
the wagons all day.
TUESDAY, HTH. Last night I had a severe chill and
felt sick all day mostly with high fever. Quite unable to
work.
WEDNESDAY, 12xH. Quite sick, very bad fever all
day.
SUNDAY, 16TH. Since We.dnesdav have scarcely
even been out of bed, but kept with raging fever ail the
time. Twice Heber has rebuked my fever but it has re-
turned. Through fear and persuasion of my family I
have taken some pills and medicine given by Dr. Sprague,
but seem to grow worse all the time. Today I have been
very sick. Towards evening my folks concluded to get
me out of the wagon into 'the tent where they had pre-
pared a bed. Soon after I got into the tent President
Young, Dr. Richards, G. A. Smith, Orson Pratt, Lorenzo
Young and others called to see me. When they had been
in a few moments President Young called O. P. Rock-
well into the tent and the feelings we had on seeing him
cannot be described. He has been in prison some time
62 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
but when his trial came on there was no one to accuse
him and the judge discharged him. The brethren all laid
hands on me and rebuked my disease in the name of the
Lord, President Young being mouth. I immediately felt
easier and slept well all night being the first sleep I had
had of any account for three days and nights.
SUNDAY, 23RD. During the past week I have gained
slowly and have been able to walk about some. I, how-
ever, feel very weak and broken down.
MONDAY, 24-TH. Reading some and fixing a little
at my violin. Feel very little better but have a better
appetite.
TUESDAY, 25xH. We had a thunder storm last night.
I do not feel so well this morning but took a walk into
the woods.' I had a very sick day all day
WEDNESDAY, 26TH. The morning very cool and
cloudy. Let T. Corbitt have a pair of shoes.
THURSDAY, 2?TH. Diantha was taken very sick and
continued for four or five days.
SATURDAY, 29rH. At night I was seized with fevei
again and very sick.
SUNDAY, 30TH' Had chill and fever, the chill held
me four or five days.
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER, 10m. I still continue very
weak and troubled with pain in stomach, etc. President
Young and Dr. Richards called and brought me a letter
from David; also said they had got me employment writ-
ing at a dollar a day or 3 c. on every hundred words copy-
ing.
SATURDAY, 12TH. Still quite unwell. President
Young brought me $8.00 in money, one half dollar bogu?
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 63
and soon after Dr. Richards sent me some letters to copy
which I did.
TUESDAY, ISxn. This evening I copied a letter to
Joseph F. Herring and having no one to send it by I took
it to council myself. Before I got half way there my knees
failed me and it was with great difficulty I got there and
home again. When I got back to Pitt's shanty my spirit
failed me for I was not aware of my weakness.
SATURDAY, 19xH. Since Tuesday I have scarcely
been out of bed, but today I feel somewhat better again.
SUNDAY, 20rH. A little better. I have been told
that President Young has virtually cursed all who have
gone to Missouri or those who shall go hereafter.
MONDAY, 21sx. This evening about ten o'clock all
the men of the camp were ordered up armed to meet in
this square forthwith. I got up and after a very little
while quite a company of the brethren got together. Presi-
dent Hales informed them that the President had received
a letter from Mr. Sarpey informing him that two gentle-
men from Missouri had informed him confidentally that
the Missourians had got out writs for the twelve and
others and were coming with a large force on the west
side of the river to attack the camp by surprise, etc. He
advised the brethren to have their arms clean and their
ammunition ready at a moments warning, to pray with
their families, keep dogs tied up at nights, etc., etc. The
company was then dismissed except a guard for the camp.
TUESDAY, 22ND. This morning the brethren were
ordered to meet at the springs below here at nine o'clock.
At the sound of the drum the brethren met and here or-
ganized into four battalions, one of artillery, and three of
64 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
infantry. There were about three hundred brethren pres-
ent. The President then stated that he had received a
letter from Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen,
confidentially, from Missouri" had informed him that the
Missourians were collecting with the sheriff of Missouri,
their head designing to attack the saints, that they had
writs, etc., for' the twelve and others. He had ordered
out the brethren that they might be ready in case of
necessity and advised them to organize and be prepared.
Markham was elected Colonel over the batallions Hosea
Stout, Lieutenant Colonel over the battalions and over
the first battalions and over the first battalions of in-
fantry. John Scott was elected 1st major and major over
the artillery. Henry Herriman 2nd major to take com-
mand of the 2nd battalion of infantry and John S. Glea-
son 3rd major over the 3rd battalion of infantry. After
organizing the President addressed the companies and
then dismissed them. It was advised to quit leaving and
move the encampment to the fort on the river. A num-
ber of teams moved this afternoon.
WEDNESDAY, 23RD. This morning President Young
and many others have moved down to the river. Heber
told me to wait till the lots were selected and he would
let me know when to move. My health is improving.
THURSDAY, 24-TH. Very cold all day. I did not feel
so well. I have been told that Daniel H. Wells and Wil-
liam Cutler have arrived in camp and brought a report
that there has been a battle fought in Nauvoo and some
of the brethren killed.
FRIDAY, 25xH. I learned today that the mob had made
it known that they were coming to drive out the "Mor-
WILLIAM .CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 65
nions." The Governor sent an officer to raise volunteers
to disperse the mob, but the mob learning this they came
sooner than they had calculated. The brethren being ap-
prised of the intentions of the mob prepared to meet them
as well as their circumstances would permit. Some of
the new citizens also made preparations to join the breth-
ren. They made five cannon shot of an old steam boat
shaft. They also filled- some barrels with powder, old
iron, etc., which were buried in the pass to the city which
could be fired by a slow match but this was of no avail
as some traitors informed the mob of it, hence they did
not come into the settled part of the city. On Saturday
the 12 inst., the mob made their appearance being about
twelve hundred in number. The brethren and some of
the new citizens in the whole about one hundred and sixty
went to give them battle, but many of the new citizens
and some of the brethren when they saw the numbers of
the mob fled and left about one hundred, nearly all breth-
ren to fight the enemy. The mob had pieces of cannon.
They met near Boscow's store on Winchester street.
The cannon of the mob were two blocks from the breth-
ren and the other part of rifle men one block from them.
The mob. fired a number of times into Barlow's old barn
expecting many of the brethren were concealed there but
in this they were disappointed, the brethren chiefly lying
down on the ground behind some shelter and fired in that
position. They fought one hour and twenty minutes when
the mob offered terms of compromise which were these,
that all the "Mormons" should leave the city within five
days leaving ten families to finish the unsettled business.
The brethren consented to this inasmuch as they had been
66 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
well informed that 1500 more were coming to join the
mob and they had nothing to expect from the authorities
of the state. Lyman Johnson, one of the twelve, headed
a party of the mob from Keokuk, Iowa territory. Three
of the brethren were killed, viz. William Anderson, his
son, and Norris, a blacksmith. Three others wounded.
The mob would not own to any of their party being killed
but one person saw them put sixteen men into one wagon
and handled them more like dead persons than wounded.
The ground where they stood was pretty much covered
with blood, so that there is no doubt they had many slain
or wounded. They had 150 baggage wagons. Esquire
Wells took command of the brethren and rode to and
fro during the whole battle without receiving injury, al-
though the balls whistled by him on every side. Amos.
Davis fought bravely. While running across a plowed
field he stumbled and fell on his left arm which formed
a triangle with his head. As he fell a cannon ball passed
through the angle of his arm between that and his head.
Hiram Kimball received a slight wound with a musket
ball on the forehead. The mob fired sixty-two shots with
the cannon and ten rounds with the muskets making 12,
000 musket balls only killing three and wounding three.
The brethren did not fire so much in proportion but did
much more execution. Truly, the Lord fights the battles
of his saints. The cannon of the brethren was not of
much service, they would not carry more than a quarter
of a mile, whereas those of the mob would hold well a
half a mile. They shot nine balls through a small smith
shop, one through Wells' barn and one at his house
but the ball struck the ground in front of his house and
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 67
glanced through the well curb. The mayor of Quincy
watched the battle from the tower of the temple and
owned that history never afforded a parallel. The breth-
ren then began to get their families and effects over the
river where they remain in a suffering and destitute con-
dition until wagons and means are sent from the . saints
to their relief. On the Thursday following, the mob
1200 strong, entered the city. Tis said from good
authority that such is the distress and sufferings of the
saints as actually to draw tears from this mob.
SATURDAY, 26TH. Russell told me that he had se-
lected three lots for us and we could go as soon as we
had a mind to. He saw Heber on the subject. I made
up my mind to start on Monday for Winter Quarters.
SUNDAY, 27xn. This morning Brother Smithies
came with six yoke of Heber's cattle and said we must
be ready to start in five minutes while he went to water
his cattle and although we had everything unprepared we
were ready before he got back. I felt well enough to drive
a team. We took six wagons down and camped on the
same block with Heber in Cape Disappointment. James
and Pitt went back to wait for Corbitt who was herding
cows and in the evening returned with three more wagons.
MONDAY, 28TH. Got the balance of the wagons and
poles, etc. down. I copied three letters for Dr. Richards.
TUESDAY, 29xn. Corbitt has started down into the
country to fetch potatoes, etc.
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER. IST, 1846. During the last
month several times I have been very sick and then again
would be somewhat better. I still continue to be feeble
and unable to work. I have one house nearly finished
68 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
and shall in a few days occupy it. Thomas Corbitt has
been down the river to fetch a load of corn on shares but
President Young told me to take the whole of it for which
I feel very grateful. I have sent my cattle to the rushes
to be wintered, having but eight tons of hay although
James and Corbitt worked from twenty-six to thirty days
but Russell and Rolfe have contrived to work it into their
hands, taking as Rolfe said, half of Corbitt's hay for herd-
ing my cattle while he was in the hay field. I think this
is as wrong a piece of business as has been played on me
through the journey.
WINTER QUARTERS
FRIDAY, JANUARY 1, 1847. Morning at the store.
At 2 :00 P. M. went with Diantha to her father's and par-
took of a roast turkey for dinner. At 4 :00 met the band
at the Basket Shop and played about an hour and a half.
The basket makers made each of us a present of a new
basket and showed their gratitude various ways. At
6:00 met with the band at Father Kimball's and played
for a party till after one o'clock. President Young and
Kimball danced considerable and all seemed to feel well.
SATURDAY, THE 2ND. At the store regulating the
books and making out Whitney and Woolley's account
current, etc. About 2 :00 P. M. Sarah came and said her
mother wanted me. Moroni had fallen into the fire and
burned himself very badly. I went home and found as
she said. All over the left side of his head burned, hfs
face very badly burned, large blisters round his left eye.
I immediately applied some consecrated oil and ordered
them to keep it on all the time. I then returned to the
store. Evening President Young came and took his hard-
WILLIAM! CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 69
ware bill, domestic drilling, etc. About 8 :00 P. M. I went
borne.
SUNDAY, SRD. Moroni's face seems much better, all
except around his left eye which looks very bad. I was
at the store all day working- at Whitney's account current
which seems very bad to regulate. Evening Heber, his
wife Ellen, Sarah Ann and Sister Whitney came in to
trade and remained till about ten o'clock.
MONDAY, 4-TH. At the store all. day. Evening wait-
ing on Orson Pratt and Amasa Lyman. Paid my tax to-
day, %2.\7y 2 to I. C. Wright.
TUESDAY, STH. At the store all day. Evening the
band met at my house.
WEDNESDAY, 6xH. At the .store all day, the weather
extremely cold.
THURSDAY, 7TH. At the store, the weatner still colder
than yesterday. Evening went to Sister Buel's and took
supper of turkey. Afterwards went to Leonard's and
played for them with Hutchinson and Smithies till 12:00
o'clock.
FRIDAY, STH. At the store again, the weather still
colder. Evening the band met at my house and played
some.
SATURDAY, 9TH. At the store all day. Quite unwell
till 9:00 P. M.
SUNDAY, lOxn. At home mostly all day. About
2 :00 P. M. went to Hutchinson's to dinner.
MONDAY, HTH. At the store all day, the weather
more moderate. Margaret and her boy doing well. Last
night Pitt returned from Missouri.
TUESDAY, 12rH. This morning Ruth began to feel
unwell. I went to the store and continued settlements as
70 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
usual. Brothers Lee and Russell returned from Missouri,
having obtained change for the checks. About 4:00 P. M.
President Young and J. D. Lee came to Bishop Whitney's
and I received in gold $496.17, and in silver $1,080.52 out
of three checks which Lee took value $2,447.32, the bal-
ance to be accounted for hereafter. Soon as I was through
receiving the money, I was informed that my folks had
sent for me and I went home soon after, found that Ruth
had brought forth a son twenty minutes after 5.00 P. M.
She had a pretty hard time, but feels comfortable as can
be expected. The boy is named Newel Horace. Even-
ing I met with the band at Johnson's and played till about
11 :00 p. m. The house was very much crowded and not
much room to dance, but they kept it up freely.
WEDNESDAY, 13TH. This morning Ruth feels more
comfortable. At the store all day waiting for Lee and
Russel to settle. Evening Russel came and I received
from him in gold $177.50, and in silver $363.19. He
also accounted for $150.00 paid to Heber and $30.00 to
Daniel Russel out of a check value $732.53 leaving him
deficit $11.84. Spent the evening at home.
THURSDAY, 14xH. At the store paying out a pair of
the money, expecting before I made final payments to
settle with Lee and Egan.
FRIDAY, 15TH. Spent an hour with Lee and Egan
at my house but did not accomplish much towards a set-
tlement. Afterwards at the store paying out money set-
tling, etc., filled bills for Pisgah & Garden Grove.
SATURDAY, 16TH. At the store again paying, set-
tling, etc., all day. The weather very cold. My folks do-
ing well.
WILLIAM! CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 71
SUNDAY, 17xH. At home mostly all day.
MONDAY, 18TH. At the store all day, mostly paying
money to the soldiers' wives.
TUESDAY, 19xn. At the store paying money, etc.
WEDNESDAY, 20TH. At the store paying money, ecc.
THURSDAY, 21sx. At the store paying money, etc.
FRIDAY, 22ND. At the store paying money, etc.
Evening went with Hutchinson to Packer's party and
played for the party in the smoke till near midnight.
SATURDAY, 23RD. At the store all day paying money,
etc. Evening met with Pitt and Hutchinson at the council
house.
SUNDAY, 24xH. Headache all day having taken cold
last evening. Mostly at home. A few hours at the store,
over the river and back. Night played with Pitt awhile.
MONDAY, 25xH. At the store, very busy paying
money, etc. Snowed some and is cold. Whitney let me
have some goods. Evening walked alone.
TUESDAY, 26xn. At the store till 2:00 p. m. After-
ward went with the Quladrille Band to the Council
House agreeably to previous notice and played for a
party of men (70's) and their families who had assisted
in building the house. They danced till about midnight.
We had plenty to eat and drink through the interview
and a very pleasant party.
WEDNESDAY, 27xn. At the store again till noon. At
2:00 p. m. at the Council House with the Quadrille Band
and played for another company of those who had as-
sisted in building the house. We had plenty of refresh-
ments and a very sociable party as on yesterday. Broke
up again about midnight.
72 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
THURSDAY, 28TH. At the store till noon, and then
at the Council House with the Quadrille Band playing
for the third party of those who had assisted in building
the house, together with the poor basket makers.
FRIDAY, 29xH. At home and the store. Felt quite
unwell.
SATURDAY, 30ra. At the store all day settling anJ
paying money to soldiers' wives.
SUNDAY, 31 ST. At home all day. Dined with
Diantha, Ruth, Margaret and mother Farr on a turkey.
MONDAY, FEBRUARY IST, 1847. At the store all day
settling accounts, paying money, etc.
TUESDAY, 2ND. At the store till noon. Afterwards
at the Council House with the Quadrille Band playing
for Brigham's family generally.
WEDNESDAY, SRD. At the store till noon. After-
wards at the Council House with the Quadrille Band to
play for a family meeting of the Young family. Presi-
dent Brigham Young was quite sick and seemed very
low spirited. After the meeting had been opened by
prayer, the President called on his brothers to stand up
by him in the center of the room which they did accord-
ing to age. John Young took his place at the head, then
Phineas, Joseph, Brigham and Lorenzo. The President
then called on Heber to take his place in the line inasmuch
as he had been recognized about fifteen years as a member
of the Young family. He took his place between Joseph
and Brigham. The President then said this was the first
time that father Young's boys had been together in the
same capacity for a number of years, etc. After a few
remarks the remainder of the evening was spent by par-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 73
taking of a good supper and cheerful dancing till about
two in the morning, when the party broke up in the best
of spirits and good feeling.
THURSDAY, 4xH. At the store mostly, evening at
home.
FRIDAY, STH. At the store till noon, then with the
Quadrille Band to play for the Silver Greys till midnight.
SATURDAY, 6TH. At the store all day.
SUNDAY, ?TH. At home.
MONDAY, STH. At the store all day.
TUESDAY, 9TH. At the store till 10:00 a. m. Then
went with the Quadrille Band in Eldridge's carriage to
play round the city, but the weather was so cold we could
not play much. At 2:00 p. m., met with (no pages
from here until April.)
into camp from England which will probably detain the
camp a few days.
FRIDAY, APRIL 9TH. Went with the Quadrille Band
over the River as the twelve do not start for the Horn
today. We played in the boat as we crossed, but in re-
turning the wind was high, the boat heavily loaded with
cattle and dangerous crossing.
SATURDAY, 10TH. At home nearly all day.
SUNDAY, HTH. At home and Farr's. I told Winslow
Farr concerning Hosea Stout's threats to take my life
after the Twelve are gone, etc. He called at night on his
return from the Council and told me to be on my guard.
MONDAY, 12TH. At home all day. Thomas and
James had planted a number of garden seeds on Satur-
day. Today, they are cutting wood and preparing to go
74 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
to the farm tomorrow. I have no hay, neither can I get
any for my cows and horses.
TUESDAY, 13TH. At home most of the day. Thomas
and James started for the farm. Evening went to the
store and told Brigham and Heber about Hosea Stout's
calculations, etc.
WEDNESDAY, 14xH. This morning severely pained
with rheumatism in my face. At 11 :00 a. m. Brigham
and Dr. Richards came. Brigham told me to rise up and
start with the pione'ers in half an hour's notice. I de-
livered to him the records of the K. of G. and set my
folks to work to get my clothes together to start with
the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family and started
in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and
Ellen Sanders, Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with
us in another wagon. We went about 19 miles and
camped on the prairie. After supper Heber prayed and
we retired to rest.
THURSDAY, 15TH. After eating and prayers by
Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven and got to
the Elk Horn at 11 :30.' We were all across at 12:00 and
there we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson
and Amasa Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers Camp
about 3 :00 p. m. This camp is about twelve miles from
the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters. I
spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and
Jackson Redding.
FRIDAY, 16xH. This day is gloomy, windy and cold.
About 8 :00 a. m. the camp was called together, and or-
ganized two Captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham and
A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 75
50's and 14 Captains of 10's. There are 143 men and
boys on the list of the pioneer company, three women
and Lorenzo Young's two children. There are 73 wagons.
C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with J. C. Little.
Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Win. Kimball and J. B. Noble
returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following
is a list of all the names of this pioneer company. To
wit:
Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham,
Orson Pratt, Joseph Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus
B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George Wardle, Thomas
Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell
Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carring-
ton, Thomas Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards,
Jesse C. Little, Phineas H. Young, John Y. Greene,
Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett, Tru-
man O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant String-
ham, Albert P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke
Johnson, John Holman, Edmund Elsworth, Alvarnus
Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,
Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob
Weiler, Stephen H. Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G.
Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester H. Earl, John
Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William
Henrie, William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas
Woolsey, Chancy Loveland, Erastus Snow, Andrew
Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William
Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case,
Artemas Johnson, William A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey,
William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr Frost, Datus En-
sign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines,
76 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen
Kelsey, John S. Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M.
Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T. Thomas, James W.
Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs,
David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William
A. King, Thomas Cloward, Hosea Gushing, Robert
Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple, Philo Johnson,
William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray,
Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rock-
well, Nathaniel Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding,
John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron Farr, Nathaniel
Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon
Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry
Fitzgerald, John H. Tippets, James Davenport, Henson
Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs, Charles A.
Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis
Barney, George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Han-
cock, John W. Norton, Shadrach Roundy, Hans C. Han-
son, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew
Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks)
Joseph Mathews, Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason Charles
Burke, Alexander P. Chessley, Rodney Badger, Norman
Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Fames.
There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 muTes, 66 oxen,
19 cows, and 17 dogs, and chickens.
The names of the females in this camp are :
Harriet Page Young, Clarissa Decker, and Ellen
Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry
Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of
148 souls who have started to go west of the mountains
as pioneers to find a home where the saints can live in
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 77
peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors, and where we
shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments,
subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of
peace can be raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the
kingdom of God flourish until truth shall prevail, and
the saints enjoy the fulness of the gospel.
The following are the names of the Captains of 50's
as appointed at this organization, viz. Addison Everett,
Tarlton Lewis, James Case, John Pack and Shadrack
Roundy. The Captains of 10's are as follows :
Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H.
Young, Luke Johnson, Stephen H. Goddard, Charles
Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard Egan, Apple-
ton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John
Brown, Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard
and the gun division see under date of April 30th.
Stephen Markha.ni was appointed the Captain of the
Guard and ordered to select out of the camp, fifty men
for guard, such as he had confidence in who are to be
considered as a standing guard, to attend to the wagons
each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to
have two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand
half the night. In cases where the horses and cattle are
tied some distance from the wagons at night, an extra
guard is to be selected from the balance of the company
or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to
leave the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After
the organization was over, I wrote a letter to Diantha,
and put it into the hands of Bishop Whitney, together
with the one I received yesterday from father and I.
McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12 :00
78 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
a. m. I had no place to put my trunk and clothing, and
did not know what to do with them. However, soon
after Heber told me to put them in Appleton M. Har-
mon's wagon, which was done. At 2 :00 p m. the camp
started out to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to
to Bishop Whitney and his brother Lyman and son
Joshua, who all returned from this place, also Wm. II.
Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three
miles and encamped in a line about six hundred yards
from timber, where there is plenty of cottonwood an:l
some rushes. This night I slept with Philo Johnson,
but having only one quilt, and the night severely cold,
I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country
in the neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most
beautiful I ever saw. The bluffs on the east are nicely
rolling and beautifully lined with timber, and some very
nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little above the
ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River,
and the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about
fifteen miles wide for many miles up the river. The Horn
is a beautiful river about 150 feet wide and about four
feet deep.
SATURDAY, 17TH. This morning the weather Is
severely cold, with a strong wind from the north and
northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled
till near 12 :00 the distance being about seven miles. We
camped close by a cottonwood grove, and the brethren
fell hundreds of them to feed their teams and save corn.
There is a small lake close by but the water is not good
and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 79
5 :00 p. m. the camps were called together and organ-
ized in military order as follows :
Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.
Stephen Markham, Colonel.
John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.
The Captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this
order, except John Pack, who being appointed major,
Appleton M. Harmon \vas appointed captain in his stead.
Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tan-
ner captain of the cannon with the privilege of choosing
eight men to manage it in case of necessity. The Presi-
dent then said : "After we start from here, every man
must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon
where he can put his hand on it at a moment's warning.
If they are cap locks, take off the cap and put on a little
leather to keep wet and etc. out. If flint locks, take out
the priming and fill the pan with twine or cotton," etc.
The wagons must keep together when traveling, and
not separate as they have previously done, and every
man to walk beside his own wagon, and not leave it only
by permission. A while before evening one of the trad-
er's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with
furs and peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile
below us. At night Eames and Hanson played some on
their violins. All peace and quietness. At night I slept
with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep
with President Young.
SUNDAY, ISxn. This morning I wrote a letter for
Heber to his wife Vilate, which was sent by Brother
Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account
of poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with
the trader's wagon about eight o'clock a. m. The wind
80 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
this morning east and southeast and very cold, with a
slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a. m. seven more trad-
ers' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of
a mile below us, soon after six mules loaded with robes
and furs. These traders say they have come from the
Pawnee village in two days. Brother Roundy got some
Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which I
thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's
journal and wrote considerable. He wants me to write
his journal all the journey. I also wrote considerable in
this book. Afternoon the weather more moderate and
pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun
shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river
which is about a half a mile. At 4 :30 p. m. father James
Case was cutting a cottonwood tree to brouse his horses,
and just as it fell the wind struck it and threw it directly
contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The con-
sequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck
and knocked him down. His right eye was knocked
down in the socket out of sight. The ox doesn't seem
seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it was
done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems
to have sustained little injury. At 5 :00 p. m., the officers
of the camp met with President Young, and he told the
order for traveling and camping hereafter, which was
communicated to the companies by the Captains of 10's
as follows:
At 5 :00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as
a signal for every man to arise and attend prayers be-
fore he leaves his wagon. Then cooking, eating, feed-
ing teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time the camp
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 81
is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to
keep beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands
or in his wagon where he can get it in a moment.
The extra men, each to walk opposite his wagon with his
loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted
to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his
officer. In case of an attack from Indians or hostile
appearances, the wagons to travel in double file. The
order of encampment to be in a circle with the mouth of
the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied
inside the circle. At 8 :30 p. m. the bugle to be sounded
again at which time all to have prayers in their wagons
and to retire to rest by nine o'clock. Tonight I went to
bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering severely with
pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.
MONDAY, 19xH. At 5 :00 a. m., at the sound of the
bugle I arose, ray face still paining me very badly. After
eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before the wagons
started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7 :15 the wagons
began to move -and at 7 :30 were all formed in double
file and proceeded on. After traveling about eight miles
we arrived at a number of small lakes, where were many
ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and killed
several. At 1:15 p. m. we arrived at a bend in the river
where a small stream runs around an island.
We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about
fifteen miles mostly a western course with the wind south.
The roads very good and the country very level on these
flat bottoms of the Platte river which bottoms appear to
be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon after the camp
was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and J. C.
82 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at
2:10. They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was
lost east of the Elk Horn and brought her to camp. They
brought me a line from Diantha and one from Ruth and
Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece of informa-
tion which has caused me to reflect much, and proves
to me that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have
for the last year been far superior to mine. In my letter
to them I requested them to attend to family prayer in
my absence, a thing which I have neglected since leav-
ing Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that
when I was at home but unknown to me, and they had
then, and still continue to bear me up before their Heav-
enly Father. Oh, what integrity, what faithfulness. I feel
unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still feel to
try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven
bless them, and all my family and let his angels guard
them, and me during" my absence that we may all be per-
mitted to meet again and enjoy each other's society in ihi?
world for many years to come, and eternal in the world to
come. O ! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy ser-
vant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open
a way that they may have the necessaries and comforts
of life, and Thy name shall have the praise, even so,
amen.
I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines,
a ball of fish line and three pencils, but no small hooks
nor knives or wafers. At twenty minutes after 3 :00 p.
m. the wagons began to move again, in the same ordei
as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p. m. when we
arrived at a very pretty open view of the Platte river.
\YTLLTAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 83
and the encampment was formed in a semi-circle on its
banks, having traveled since noon, about five miles, and
in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry,
level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about
a mile wide but very shoal. There is not much timber
where we are camped, and the water is pretty muddy. I
walked some this afternoon in company with Orson Pratt
and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden
cog wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order
as to tell the exact number of miles we travel each day.
He seemed to agree with me that it could be easily done
at a trifling expense. After the encampment was formed,
I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw
my tooth which has pained me so much for a long time.
While I was speaking to him Stephen Markham came
up, and wanted him to take his team and the Revenue
Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called- -
back about two miles, as they designed to seine in one of
the lakes. Brother Luke Johnson drives the team which
draws the boat and rides in the boat as in a wagon. I
concluded I would go and watch them fish and started
out on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee
and in our conversation I mentioned to Brother John S.
Higbee the same idea I had advanced to Orson Pratt,
and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at
the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls.
They only caught a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one
duck, two small cat fish, and two creek suckers. They
then concluded to return and I started on foot again with
two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they over-
took me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went
84 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
to bed, but had no rest on account of the severe pain in
my head and face.
TUESDAY, 20x11. Arose at 5:30, my head and face
very bad indeed. I ate but little breakfast, although we
had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started out at
7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind.
At 9:15 arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or
eight feet wide, and a poor bridge over it, but all the
wagons got well over. This is about five miles from
where we camped last night. We then passed through a
small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide,
open prairie bottom. At 11 :30 we stopped beside a small
slough or lake to feed and eat, etc., being five miles from
Shell creek. While stopping here, three deer passed
about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P. Rockwell
and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five
miles, but did not succeed in taking any of them. The
wind has fallen considerably and it is very warm and
dusty. At 1 :00 p. m. started again, the horse teams tak-
ing the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and en-
camped near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the
river. The encampment was formed about half past five.
Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and a number of
tires set before dark.
John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and
some others, started ahead of the camp about noon, and
went about two miles farther than this place to a lake
with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very nice
fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was
formed. The fish were distributed around the camp
according to the number of persons in each wagon, gen-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 85
erally two to a wagon, and the brethren enjoyed a good
supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet .
which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks
as well as I could in cold water without soap. After
Brother Luke Johnson had got through distributing fish,
I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He willingly
agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair,
he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it
out. The whole operation did not take more than one
minute. He only got half the original tooth, the balance
being left in the jaw. After this my head and face pained
me much more than before. I ate but little supper and
then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morn-
ing. The evening was very calm and pleasant.
WEDNESDAY, 21sT. Arose at 5:00, my face easier,
but swollen and my gums raw. Took breakfast on fish
and coffee, but ate no. bread, it being very dry and hard.
I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started
on foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appear-
ances of rain, and a slight shower fell. Wind northeast
and pretty cool. At ten minutes to nine an Indian rode
up to the. first wagon and appeared very friendly. Soon
after six or eight others came running on foot. They
came from the timber about a mile to the left. At 10 :00
we arrived at a fork in the road, the one on the left lead-
ing to the new Pawnee village, and the one to the right
leaving the village some distance to the south. A con-
sultation was held by President Young with father Case
relative to the roads crossing the river, etc., when it \vis
concluded to take the right hand road. We proceeded
accordingly and at 12 :00 came in sight of the new Pawnee
86 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
village, in an open spot on the south bank of the Loop
Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared
to be about three quarters of a mile south of the road we
were on. At 12:30 we were opposite the village, and
could then see distinctly upwards of 100 lodges set pretty
close together, and appeared to be ranged in several lines,
and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived
at a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near
to the river. At 1 :00 p. m. the encampment was formed
on the bank of the. lake and a guard instantly placed at
the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us, al-
though they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal.
One of the Indians presented several certificates from
persons who had previously traveled through their vil-
lage, all certifying that the Grand Chief of the Pawnees
was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents
of a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a
little tobacco, and a little salt. President Young gave to
the chief, some powder, lead, salt and a number of the
brethren gave a little flour each. The old chief, however,
did not seem to think the presents sufficient, and said he
did not like us to go west through their country, he was
afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them oft".
Brother Shumway told him we did not like buffalo, but
this does not appear to give him much satisfaction. How-
ever, there was no appearance of hostility. In fact, all
that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands
with our brethren and would run from one side to another
so as not to miss one. A number of the squaws w r ere
on the opposite side of the lake with mattocks digging
roots. Brother Shumway says there are about twelve
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 87
thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is
reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did
not see many of them. Larpy is at their village trading,
~aid it is uncertain whether he will endeavor to use an in-
fluence for us or against us. We have no fear, however,
because their only object appears to be plunder, and it is
the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. Dur-
ing the resting hour I spent the time writing in my
journal. At 2:15 p. in. the ox teams started out again
and the horse teams soon after. The weather had been
calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2 :OU or a
little before, some heavy clouds began to gather, ana
thunder was heard at a distance. About 2 :30 the ram
began to descend heavily, accompanied by heavy peals ot
thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about
4:00 o'clock. A strong north wind blew up, the rain
and thunder ceased and the weather grew very cold. We
traveled till 5 :30 and the encampment was formed on
the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encamp-
ment was formed and teams turned out, the brethren
were all called together and some remarks made by
President Young, advising them to have a strong guard
round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to
stand guard and about 100 volunteered amongst whom
were all the twelve except Dr. Richards. This guard was
divided into two companies of fifty each, one company
to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last
half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch
till 1 :00 o'clock. Brigham and Heber both stood on guard.
Out of the companies a party were stationed as a picket
guard some distance from the camp, the balance stood
88 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong
wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night,
it rained considerable. Our course this morning was
about west. This afternoon, northwest. We are now
within three miles from the bluffs on the north. We
have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being
good and very level. The grass here is short but looks
good. The buffalo grass is very short and curly like
the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring grass doesn't
seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last
year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disad-
vantage to the spring companies. I have noticed all the
way on this bottom from the Elk Horn, that the ground
is full of wild onions which appear far richer and larger
than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that
corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose
and sandy, and appears poor. The country is beautiful
and pleasing to the eye of the traveler, although you can
only see one kind of scenery for several days.
THURSDAY, 22ND. Arose soon after 5 :00 a. m., my
face very painful again caused by the cold. There has
been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and
safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all
night just outside the wagons. There was considerable
joking this morning on account of two of the picket gviard
having their guns stolen and Colonel Markham having his
hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on guard
and those who found them so, took their guns to be a
warning to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake
night after night after traveling 20 miles in the day, tak-
ing care of teams, cooking, etc. At 7 :30 the camp pro-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 89
ceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one quarter
of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest
beds of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this
morning lay beside pretty heavy timber, and about a
westerly course. After traveling two miles, crossed Look-
ing Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide, but
easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9 :45 sat
down on an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence
is a splendid view of the surrounding country for many
miles. From southeast to southwest you can see the
course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. North-
west a level prairie about four miles and then a range
of timber. The bluffs on the north about seven miles
distant, and on the east a level prairie for about twenty
miles. At this place there is a range of what appears to
be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from
northeast to southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east
bank of Beaver River, having traveled about ten miles.
This stream is about twenty to twenty-five feet wide ;
swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are
tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to
feed. Some of the brethren went to fix the fording place
a little, the banks are steep on each side and the water
a little over two feet deep. At 2 :00 p. m. started again,
the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of
the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope
which was hooked to the wagon tongue and they assisted
the teams up the bank. The wagon I rode in crossed at
two minutes after 2 :00, and in a little while all were
safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when
we arrived at the Pawnee Missionary station which is
90 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
about seven miles from Beaver River. The country this
afternoon was more uneven, there being many steep
Ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is
much rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt
would yield a good crop of corn. This missionary sta-
tion was deserted last fall, and Brother Miller's company
being camped here, they carried the missionaries and their
effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very
beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it
is surrounded by bluffs, on the south by Jhe Loop Fork at
about there quarters of a mile distance. On the east by
descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs through it.
and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its
banks are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep
bank on each side, and between these banks in the valley
which is a few rods wide, the Sioux have practiced com-
ing down when they have made their attacks on tne
Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to
shelter an enemy from observation when designing to
make a sudden attack. There are a number of good log
houses here, considerable land under improvement en-
closed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and
fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and
a drag. All apparently left to rot. There are also two
stoves, etc. The government station is a quarter of a
mile below, or south where father Case lived as govern-
ment farmer and received $300.00 a year ror it, but when
Major Harvey learned at the last payday, which was
last November, that father Case had joined the "Mor-
mons" he very politely dismissed him from the govern-
ment service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL 91
burned up the government station houses, blacksmith
shop and everything, but the missionary station they did
not touch. This place according to my account is 134
miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to live.
Before dark the President called the camp together, and.
told them they might use the fodder and hay for their
teams, but forbade any man carrying anything away, even
to the value of one cent. He said he had no fears of the
Pawnees troubling us here, but ^we had better be prepareo
lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses.
A guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the
ravine to the north. The cannon was also prepared and
Brother Tanner drilled his men to use it till dark. At
9 :00 p. m. I retired to rest and slept well through the
night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degree?
at this place.
I again introduced the subject of fixing machinerv
to a was:on wheel to tell the distance we travel, describ-
ing the machinery and time it would take to make it,
etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of its
success.
FRIDAY, 23nn. Arose this morning at 5 :30, my face
bad again through sleeping cold. The air chilly but a
very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and
others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can
best ford it. There is a ford a little distance from here,
and another about four miles above, but the latter is in
the neighborhood of another band of the Pawnees and
they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started
out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp re-
mained here till they returned. Some are working, some
92 WILLIAM CLAYTON 5 JOURNAL.
fixing wagons, etc. The day is now warm and very pleas-
ant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet which
are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to
12:00 and reported that we would have to go about four
miles and there build a raft. Tarlton Lewis was ap-
pointed to superintend the building of the raft. Presi-
dent Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron, etc.,
which lies around here, for the government is owing-
father Case considerable for services, and he has the priv-
ilege of taking this for 'his pay. He will do it and if
the brethren want the iron, etc., they can have by haul-
ing it, one half, and father Case the other half, and he
(Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I
started on foot about 12:00 o'clock and viewed the ruins
of buildings, etc., which the Sioux have burned. There is
a large quantity of good bar iron, and a number of plows,
which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms
proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek,
passed another creek not very good to ford, although it
is narrow but sandy. Two miles farther arrived at the
intended crossing place, but the prospect looks dull for
rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current.
My feet were so sore and blistered I could not walk for
some time after I got there. The sun is very hot and no
wind. At 3 :20 the wagons arrived and prepared to ford
the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over,
leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no
load, nor even a wagon box, it was with difficulty he got
over. Orson Pratt started next with a part of his load.
When he had got in about a rod, his horses began to s'nk
some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of
WILLIAMI CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 93
the brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., ti'l
they got him to the bar in the middle. He then started
for the other bar and about half way across his horses
sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them fell down.
A number of the men immediately went to his assistance
and took them off the wagon and led them across to the
sand bar. President Young went over in the boat and
took the loading out of the carriage into the boat. The
carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a long
rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team
over in the same way, also John Pack's and Words-
worth's. President Young then ordered that no more
wagons should go over that way, but move up the river
about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The
camp was formed about 5 :30 p. m. The river is not
more than two feet deep, but there are a great many
beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams, and
calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a
noise when crossing the quicksands as if they were going
over a stone pavement.
The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich,
but there is very little timber. After crossing Plumb
creek, there is plowed land for nearly two miles on the
right but not fenced. It apears to have yielded a good
crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level and
beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a
quarter of a mile from the old Pawnee village on a splen-
did table of land, level and pleasant as heart could desire.
It is not much over three quarters of a mile wide and
shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and on
the south by the Loop Fork of the- Platte. From this
94 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
bank can be seen the timber on the banks of the main
Platte, the bottom from here to it appears very level.
There is something romantic in the scenry around here,
and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.
In the evening the captains of tens were called to-
gether and a vote taken to build two light rafts, Tarl-
ton Lewis to superintend one and Thomas Woolsey the
other. As many loads of property as can be carried over
in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty
wagons will ford it. It is said that by going over several
times with teams the sand will pack down and be good
crossing, several of those who have been across believe
this from today's experience and they calculate to give
it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who
waded the river to help the wagons over, Brother Kim-
ball joined and assisted one team to the other side, and
then returned in the boat with President Young.
SATURDAY, 24TH. Arose soon after 5 :00. Morning
fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's horses was
choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a
stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and
either stepped back or lay down and rolled over into the
hole, and the chain being short he was choked to death,
having no power to extricate himself. This is a grievous
loss for there are no more teams in the camp than what
are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly
enough to get along very comfortably. By request of
Brother Kim-ball, I went up to the old Indian village im-
mediately after breakfast to take a view of it, and write
a description as near as circumstances would permit which
is as follows :
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 95
This village is situated on the norrh bank of the Loop
Fork of the Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles
southwest of the mission station on Plumb creek and 138
miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee nation is
divided into four bands. The names of the bands are
the Grand Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Re-
publican. When the nation settled in this region the
Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the west bank
of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and
were afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the
Sioux made war on the Indians at the first settlement
and destroyed their village, the Grand Chief saw that
his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes alone,
and it was concluded that the four bands should locate
together on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux
succeeded in burning this village last summer during the
absence of the Pawnees when on their hunt. They re-
built most of it again, but last fall the Sioux made an-
other attack and burned the whole village except one
dwelling or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three
or four others but partially destroyed, the rest are en-
tirely demolished and levelled with the ground. The
Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them
a few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made
of hides, etc. The name of the Grand Chief is Shef mo-
Ian, who is also the superior chief of the Pawnee band.
All documents or treaties made by the nation are signed
by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The
head chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the
other chiefs, father Case did not recollect their names.
From him I obtained this information. There is a part
96 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
of the Loup baud on the main Platte, some distance from
here, who have never yielded to the government treaties,
but stand out from the rest of the nation and spend their
time mostly in plundering other tribes as well as travelers.
They frequently go as far as the Cherokee nation to rob
and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for their
love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules,
but not often anything else.
On the east and west of the village is a beautiful
level bench of prairie extending many miles, and to the
ridge of bluffs which run east and west touching within
a mile of the village. On the top of the bluffs can be
seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about
a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an ex-
tensive corn field, the stalks still standing. On the south
is a beautiful view of the nice level prairie extending
to the main branch of the Platte, the timber on the banks
can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork is prob-
ably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal,
except a narrow channel near the shore on this side
which is probably three feet deep. The bottom is mostly
quicksand and not safe fording. About half the surface
from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the
surface of the water mostly on the south side. There
are several small islands and a little timber to the right
or west. The village occupies a space of about 40 acres
of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch about five feet
wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high,
running from the bank of the river around the village till
it again strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a
good fortification. A number of lodges are built outside
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 97
the ditch on the east and on account of want of room in-
side when the bands from the other village joined them.
The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges
varying in size but all similiarly constructed, as appears
from the remnants of some left standing. While I take
this sketch, I sit in the one left unharmed, which it is
said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and as the lodges
are all constructed in the same manner, .only differing in
size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is
built. In the first place, the earth is dug out a little,
slanting to the depth of about 18 inches in the form of
a perfect circle about 44 feet in diameter. This forms the
floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17 crotch posts
let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that
the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the out-
side of the circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches
from the base of the circle. These posts are arranged at
about equal distances from each other around the circle.
In the crotches, poles are laid across from crotch to
crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to
stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20
inches from the outside of the circle are many smaller
poles let into the surface of the ground, on an average of
about a foot apart and leaning inward so that the top of
the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported by
the crotcres. The space between the foot of these poles
and the edge of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely
around the house, and there is room sufficient for more
than a hundred men to seat themselves on it very com-
fortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles
are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontallv from
98 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
bottom to top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these
are lashed fast to the upright poles by strings made of
bark. On the outside of these is laid a thick layer of long
prairie grass and occasionally lashed through to the up-
right poles also. The whole is then covered with earth
about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually
thinner towards the top. This forms an enclosure when
completed around the whole area about seven feet high,
a place being left sufficiently large for the door. The
next process is to place erect ten upright poles or crotches,
very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven
feet nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches.
These are set perpendicular, deep in the ground
and also arranged at about equal distances from each
other, and form a strong foundation which is
the design and use to which they are appropriated. On
the top of these pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong
and firm, the top of the pillars being about eleven or
twelve feet above the floor. Long small poles are then
laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner ones
and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two
feet of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from
the fire to ascend through. Th^sp long poles are laid
pretty close together all around the building, and across
them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in the first in-
stance, only they are much closer together. The opera-
tion of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally cov-
ering the whole with earth, completes the roof of the
building. The door or entrance is a long porch formed
by placing in the earth four upright posts or crotches
far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle,
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 99
about 18 or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches
on each side the porch and in the crotches, poles are laid
horizontally as in the other parts of the building. The
process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat of long
grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the
other parts of -the building. The roof of the porch is
flat and is about seven feet high and six feet wide. The
porch is dug down about half as deep as the main building,
making a short step at the mouth of the. porch and' another
one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been
made in the center of the house directly under the hole
in the roof.
At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite
the porch, is a projection of sod left about a foot from
the outside of the circle which is said to have been the
seat of the chief, and over which hung his medicine bag
and other implements.
The crotches are arranged so that there is a free
passage to the center of the hall from the porch one
standing on each side at the entrance about six feet apart
and the others apppear to be arranged from them. The
smaller houses have not so many pillars 2kS this one. Some
have eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle.
Others have four in the center and ten outside. The en-
trances are also smaller in proportion, but all are con-
structed on the same principle. It looks a little singular
to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges front
to the southeast, except in one or two instances where
they front in other directions for lack of room. It is
probable that this is done to avoid the effects of the
severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in winter.
100 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has
been designed for keeping horses in. These are
mostly left unharmed. They are constructed by placing
poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in
diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet
high. About five or six feet above the ground cross poles
are laid horizontally, and each of the upright poles are
firmly lashed to the cross poles by strips of bark, so as to
make them firm and secure them from being moved out
of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with
a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse.
There are some circular stables but not so many as the
square ones. The horses appear to have been penned in
by placing loose poles across the doorway, for there is
no other sign of a door visible.
Around each lodge there are also several cachets
where corn and other necessities are deposited. The
cachets are large holes dug in the ground, or rather un-
der the ground, the entrance being only just large enough
to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty
much after the shape of a large demijon. The cachets
are generally about six feet high inside and about fifteen
feet in diameter ; there is a gradual slope from the mouth
to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms
the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth,
is about two and a half or three feet -deep. Some
of these are said to be capable of holding a hundred
bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick coat of
grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely
with earth, and when finished a stranger would not have
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 101
the least suspicion tbat there was a storehouse full of
corn under his feet.
I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after
noon, and then had intended to go on the bluffs and ex-
amine the Indian graves, but it being very warm, and
perceiving the teams crossing the river very rapidly, I
returned, and found most of the teams over. They com-
menced crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their
goods on the bank which were carried in the boat to the
sand bar, the teams going down to the ferry to cross.
After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived that
they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams
they soon took over the loaded wagons without much
difficulty. I prepared to wade over the river, inasmuch as
the wagon I am with was gone over, and in fact, all
Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson Red-
ding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over,
and I mounted and proceeded. I found the current strong
indeed, and about as much as a horse could do to ford it
without a load. I soon got over safe and wet only my
feet. At 3 :00 p. m. the last wagon was over on the solid
sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams
were safely landed on the bank on the south side of the
Loop Fork without any loss or accident, which made the
brethren feel thankful indeed. A little before four, the
wagons started on to find a better place to camp and feed
for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Moiv
day and give the teams a chance to rest, for they as well
as the men are very tired by wading against the strong
current on the quick sand. The bottom land on this side
102 WHLLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass ap-
pears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs
on the other side look beautiful from here, and the In-
dian graves show very plain. We went on about three
miles and camped beside a small lake near the river. I
traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rock-
well discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake.
I took a couple of hooks and lines, handed some to him,
and went to fishing myself with the others and we had
some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which Brother
Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small
they made a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a
good mess each. Brother Higbee came down with the
seine and made two hauls but caught none on account of
the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good rea-
sons to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as
their footsteps have been seen on the bluffs south, ap-
parently very fresh, but the guard are faithful and we
have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to
be ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I
walked over to Orson Pratt's wagon, and through his
telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very distinctly never
having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and
looked through my glass and coukl see them with it, but
not so distinct as with Orson's. The evening was very
fine and pleasant. About ten o'clock retired to rest in
good health and spirits, thankful for the mercies of the
day that is past.
SUNDAY, 25xH. Arose soon after five, shaved and
changed some of my clothing. The morning very pleas-
ant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles has
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 103
been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the
main branch of the Platte river and it is said that if we
travel on this fork one hundred miles farther, we shall
then be not over thirty miles from the main branch. This
morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the river
about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah
Newman was baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for
the benefit of his health. Brother Newman has been
afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and has not been
able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and
hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any
kind of help seemingly much better. Soon after 5 :00 p.
in. a meeting was called at the wagon of President Young,
and remarks made by several, and 'instructions by Presi-
dent Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the
folly of conforming to gentile military customs on an
expedition of this nature'. After dark the twelve and
some others met together opposite the President's wagon
to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as we proceed
on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight
horses in the company which are not attached to teams.
Then eight men were selected to ride on horseback, viz.,
Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown, John Brown, O. P.
Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then there
were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John
Pack, Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Han-
cock, Edmund Ellsworth, Roswell Stevens, Ed'son Whip-
pie, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart, Jackson
Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the
twelve have the privilege of hunting when they have a
mind to. After some remarks and cautions in regard
104 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was dismissed,
and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening
being very fine and pleasant.
MONDAY, 26xn. This morning about 3 :30 an alarm
was sounded. I immediately got out of the wagon and
learned that three of the guard who were stationed to
the northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians
crawling up towards the wagons. They first received
alarm from the motions of one of our horses, and noticing
this they went towards the spot and listening, heard
something rustle in the grass ; they first suspected they
were wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off
and six Indians sprang up and ran from within a few
rods of where they stood, another gun was then fired at
them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed
all around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon.
The day was just breaking' when this took place and
the moon had just gone down. The air being extremely
cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon till morn-
ing and arose again at half past five. After daylight,
the footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where
they had come down under the bank and sometimes
stepped into the water. No doubt their object was to
steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard
had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed hi
a half circle and some horses were tied outside. How-
ever, the prompt reception they met with will have a
tendency to show them that we keep a good watch and
may deter them from making another attempt. Orders
were given for the tens to assemble for prayers this morn-
ing, instead of two in each wagon, which was done. Presi-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 105
dent Young told me this morning that as soon as my
health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock
in keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run,
having to take care of a team and attend to other chores.
The camp started out about 8.00 A. M. I started
at 7.30 on foot and traveled four miles, then waited for
the wagons. There is no road here, consequently, Presi-
dent Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and others
went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse
teams traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will
not hurt the oxen's feet. The hunters started out in dif-
ferent directions keeping only a few miles from the wa-
gons. We traveled about seven miles and then stopped at
1 1 :30 o'clock beside a few little holes of water to rest and
feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat ele-
vated, can be seen the remains of an old village or Indian
fort, over the river about northwest from here. The
country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and bounded by
uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun
is very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great ten-
dency to make sore lips, parched up and feverish. At 1 :45
all the wagons were on the way again. We traveled
about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft places
though not very bad. They are the first since we left
Winter Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on
the other side the river. We had to make a new road all
day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on the east
banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The
\vagons are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they
cannot be seen at a quarter of a mile distance. There is
no fresh grass here, neither has the old grass been burnt
106 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
off. We have crossed a number ,of trails today which
some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the
river, and in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not
more than two, and so on, together running" about a half a
yard apart. The hunters have seen no buffalo. Woolsey
killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few small
willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and
there doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our
course today has been about southwest. About a mile
back from this place situated on a high bench of land on
the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian village,
the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of
timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the
southeast, the same as those back at the other village.
There has evidently been a garden around the village as
the land has been broken and bears marks of cultivation.
This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the
iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the
load so that there was no weight on the part which was
broken, and traveled with it all day. This evening the
wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother Tanner's
forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put
to the wagon again. This was done in the short space of
one hour after the encampment was formed. The welding
was performed by Brother Burr Fost. About eight
o'clock Joseph Mathew.s came into camp from seeking his
horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off
a little before and he supposed it was Brother Little's
horse, which was missing. Dr. Richards' mare was also
missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went out to
seek for his black man who was out watching his teams.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 107
and as he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he
supposed going towards the river. He ran towards it to
turn it back to camp, but as soon as he commenced run-
ning the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him sup-
pose there was an Indian on him although he could not see
the Indian. As soon as he gave the alarm five or six of
the brethren mounted their horses, and pursued on tho
course pointed out to the river, bjit could neither see nor
hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President
Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on
horseback and searched till near eleven o'clock, but like-
wise proved unsuccessful. The brethren have been re-
peatedly warned not to let their horses go far from their
wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around
for more than two miles. These are two good horses and
the owners feel bad enough, but it will be a warning to
others to be more careful.
TUESDAY, 2/TH. Arose soon after five. The morn-
ing fine an-d pleasant. During the night the guard fired
twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired at.
I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast,
and also with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the
lost horses could be found. He followed one track some
way into a bunch of willows, but having no arms we re-
turned. At 7 :45 the wagons commenced moving and trav-
eled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south
course, the design being to go to the main branch of the
Platte. President Young, Kimball and others went for-
ward again to point out the road. O. P. 'Rockwell and
some others started back to hunt the horses about the
time we .started. The land today has been very rolling
108 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
and uneven. It is also very sandy and dry. After travel-
ing about four miles through dead grass we found a large
space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is
quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung,
which proves that we are not far distant from some of
them. The hunters have been out again but have not dis-
covered any. There are a great many lizards on these sand
ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and
Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many
little prairie dogs. In one hole was a very large rattle-
snake, and around the holes many small owls which seem
to correspond with what travelers have said previously
that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in the
same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice
west wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When
we stopped at noon the brethren dug several holes and
obtained a little water, as there is none here above the
surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle anci
horses. At 3.15 the teams commenced to move again.
Just as they started, John Brown, Rosewel Stevens and
Brother Woodruff all shot at an antelope. They all hit
him and killed him. Having .skinned it, they .put it into
one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the
roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some
of the ox teams gave out and had to stop and feed. The
rest went on till they found a small branch of water and
the grass being very good we stopped for the night at half
past five, having traveled about four miles, course about
south. President Young and several others went back
with mules and horses to assist the teams up which are
behind. Luke Johnson shot a very large rattlesnake and
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 109
brought it to camp for the oil. Roswel Stevens killed
a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have
seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began
to lightning and thunder and we had a light sliower with
a very strong wind. There is an appearance of more rain
which is very much needed indeed. At 6.30 O. P. Rock-
well, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown
returned from hunting the two lost horses. They re-
ported that they went back to within about two miles of
where we encamped on Sunday and looking off towards
the river they saw something move in the grass at the foot
of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it
was a wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods
Porter stopped to shoot at the supposed wolf. The mo-
ment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians sprang to their
feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed with
rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle
slung on his back, and his bow strung tight in his hand
and about twenty arrows. The Indians advanced towards
them but the brethren motioned and told them to stop and
held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When
the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco ! bacco !"
The brethren told them they had not tobacco. One of the
Indians came close beside J. Mathew's horse to shake
hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the horse's bridle.
When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocke'l
his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not
leave he would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the
pistol ready to fire, retreated. The Indians made signs to
get the brethren lower down the river, but the brethren
turned their horses to come to camp, thinking it unsafe to
110 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
go near to the timber where they expected more Indians
lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to 'come back
the Indians fired six .shots at them with tneir rifles and
the brethren immediately faced about at which the Indians
fled towards the timber below. The brethren did not
shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them.
They saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and
returned satisfied that Pawnees have g,ot them, and no
doubt intended to get the horses on which the brethren
ro-de, but they met with too stern a reception to risk an
attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those
who came into camp when we stopped for dinner near
their village, and proves that they eyed the horses pretty
close, and also proves that they have followed us close
ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but got
back safe to camp without harm.
About the same time the brethren returned, a gun ac-
cklently went off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother
Mathew's horse. Those who saw the accident state that
when the rain came on, some of the men put their guns in
John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on.
Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after
went to get his coat and plucking it up, some part of the
coat caught the cock of the gun and raised it so that
when the coat slipped off, the gun went off, and the ball
struck the horse's leg on the back side about half way
between the knee and- upper joint. The bone was broke
entirely off. There were several men and horses close
by the wagon at the time. The wagon was ,set on fire,
but soon put out with little damage. This makes four
of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. Ill
last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks
up Brother Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber
a present of a little antelope meat. About dark the wind
moved to the north and blew strong a little while and we
had a little more rain.
WEDNESDAY, 28xH. Morning fine and pleasant, no
Indians. The wind blew strong from the northeast
which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves
and antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen
as yet. Orders were given this morning for no man to
leave the wagons except the hunters. The brethren had
to make a road down to the small creek near which we
camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the
wagons commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at
ten o'clock and then the camp proceeded on. President
Young, Kimball, and several others going before to point
out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek.
Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his
leg broke last night. The horse belonged to Brother
Barney, but was in Markham's team and was a good one,
but they concluded it was better to shoot her than leave
her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for
the first seven miles was a little east of south over a very
level prairie and green with grass. The largest wild on-
ions grow here I have ever seen. After traveling about
seven miles we turned southwest, being within a mile of
the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We trav-
eled till 2 :30 and then stopped to feed, having come about
eleven miles today. The road.s are extremely dusty ana
the strong wind blows it into the wagons and everything
is covered. We are now near to timber and a good chance
112 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
for grass for. the cattle. At 4.00 P. M. we moved again
and traveled till six, having traveled about four miles,
and during the day, about fifteen miles. We have campea
about a quarter of a mile from the timber and there is
plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The water is also
clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy
and very cool, which affects my head some. Slippered on
some antelope and went to bed early.
THURSDAY, 29xn. The wagons started at five o'clock
this morning before breakfast, to find more grass as this
is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being about three
miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morn-
ing very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this
country and no clew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy
bread. At twenty minutes after eight, the teams .started
again and after traveling about two miles came to a very
pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten
feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about
a rod wide. We were detained some here, but all got
over safely. We then traveled on a table or prairie gently
ascending for four or five miles but very even and good
traveling. At 1.00 P. M. we stopped beside a small lake
to rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles
today. The wind south and .strong. One of Orson
Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed to be the bots. He
has lain down several times in the harness within the last
three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and
everything else is sh'rinking up, for the wind is perfectly
dry and parching; there is no moisture in it. Even my
writing desk is splitting with the drought. At 2 :30 P. M.
we started again and traveled till about 6:30 over toler-
WILLIAM' CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 113
able level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly
a southwest course. The wind was strong from south-
west till sundown and then turned to northeast. The
clouds .of dust were almost sufficient to suffocate every-
one. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before
the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a
good chance to kill one, but they missed it, although three
of them shot at it. We camped at night close to Grand
Island where there is an abundance of rushes for cattle.
There is also a white substance that seems to ooze out of
the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so
strong as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is
better and the day has passed without accident.
FRIDAY, 3Ora. Arose at half past five. Morning
cool and pleasant. The teams have filled themselves with
rushes. Started at 7 :40 and soon after the camp started,
I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five
miles. The prairie level and green with grass. We
travel on the first bench about three quarters of a mile
north of the timber on Grand Island. There are many
wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but none
very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass
which from appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There
are also numerous patches of buffalo grass which is very
short, thick on the ground, and curly like the hair on a
buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in color.
About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed
a place where the Indians have camped no doubt dur-
ing their hunt. They must have been very numerous for
their camp has covered a number of acres of ground.
President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead
114 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
on horseback to look out the road. We have thus far fol-
lowed the Indian trail, but it is now so grown over and
so old it is scarce discernible. The wind blows strong
from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmos-
phere is dull and cloudy. Our course today has been
about west. At a quarter to twelve we stopped to feed
beside a small creek of clear, good, water, having trav-
eled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is
long and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from
Grand Island.
Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bul-
lock's journal, I will now record the names of the stand-
ing guard as organized April 16th, also the men selected
by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as ordered
Saturday, April 17th.
Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens,
Thomas Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thorton,
Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George Scholes,
Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R.
Grant, William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign,
William Dykes, - John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, Art-
emus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett, William
Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Ly-
man Curtis, Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C.
Hanson, William C. A. Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rod-
ney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander P. Chesley, Ap-
pleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John
Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple,
Conrad Klineman, Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks,
Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons, William A. King,
Thomas Tanner, Hosea Gushing, and John H. Tippets.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 115
The names of the gun detachment are as follows :
Thomas Tanner, Captain ; Stephen H. Goddard,
Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace
Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George
Scholes and Rufus Allen.
At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again,
the wind blowing from the north tremendously strong,
and clouds of dust arose from under the wagon wheels.
It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled again
over a level prairie some distance from the river and
turned off to camp under the bench soon after 5 :00 p.
m. having traveled about eight miles, our course a little
southwest. The wagons were formed in an imperfect
circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths
from the wind, which took near an hour to form the en-
campment. We are about a mile from water and a mile
and a half from timber, with very little grass for our
teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his over-
coat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no acci-
dent and the brethren fell well, some are wrestling to
keep themselves warm. Some have had the good luck
to bring a little wood with them but it seems as if many
will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or
nothing as they have no bread cooked. Eight p. m., the
camp have found a good substitute for wood in the dried
buffalo dung which lies on the ground here in great
plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed.
Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire
to cook on and which is well adapted to the use of this
kind of fuel. He dug a hole in the ground about 8
inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide. Then
116 WTLT.TAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
at each end of this hole he dug another about the same
dimensions as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth
standing between the middle and two end holes. At the
end of these partitions he made a hole through about 3
inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the bottom
of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and
across the top two wagon hammers to set the pots and
pans on, so that the fire could have free circulation un-
derneath. By this method much cooking was done with
very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water
so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep
and good water obtained. After supper I went and
gathered some dried buffalo dung, (politely called buffalo
chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother Hanson
played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced
to warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm
but having only one quilt for covering, I suffered much
with cold. Brother Kimball rode ahead again on horse
back and suffered some from cold.
SATURDAY, IST OF MAY. The morning very cold in-
deed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the cattle,
the camp started out at 5 :40 and traveled till a quarter
after eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we
started this morning three buffalo were seen grazing on
the bluff about six miles distance. I could see them very
plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas Brown
and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill
some. Soon after they went, another herd of buffalo
were seen to the northwest at the foot oi the bluffs about
eight miles off. I counted with my glass, 72, and Orson
Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 117
horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement
with the glass and saw that sometime before the brethren
got to them, the buffalo fled and were soon after out of
sight. We stopped for breakfast close to Grand Island
and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four miles
we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock
which evidently connects with the river in high water. A
little previous to this time the hunters returned and re-
ported that Luke Johnson shot at one and dropped him
on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the herd.
They did not get any, but saw more farther west and
went to give chase to the latter herd. When they got
near them, they turned down under the bluffs and joined
the herd chased by the last hunting party. Luke lost his
cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he
could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and
pick out a good one. They being pretty near, selected a
cow and designed both to shoot at her, but while they
were making their plans the herd started and they missed
their chance. About the time the hunters returned, an-
other still larger herd was discovered still farther west,
also at the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped
near the above mentioned lake and selected eleven men
to go and give chase to the last seen herd and he gave
them their instructions. Although they were at least
eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my
glass and amongst them many calves. This being the
first day buffalo has been seen on our journey and in fact
the first ever seen by any except about five or six of the
brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure in
the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the
113 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S TQURNAL.
teams moved slowly and frequently stopped to watch their
movement. When the hunters were within a mile or two
from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase to an antelope,
which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the
dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and
when the buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter
into a closer huddle. The dog, however, evidently fright-
ened with their savage appearance, stopped and retraced
his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to get
inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he im-
mediately called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started
with it on full gallop. After the dog returned the buffalo
did not move much from, the place and the hunters moved
gently along till they got pretty near them, at which time
Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and com-
menced galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were
left with the wagons were now strung up to the highest
pitch, a feeling of exciting interest appeared to prevail
throughout the camp, they having heard and read so
much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pur-
sued, and knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced
in regard to hunting the wild buffalo. While they felt
for the safey of the hunters, they still desired to see as
much of the chase as the distance would allow, and were
wishful that the chase might be successful as a number
have no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good
to all men and save our bread stuff, and the desire to
taste the much famed buffalo meat created a longing
desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd
commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit
at full gallop and soon closed in with them. At this tiine
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 119
I got my glass and rested it on Brother Aaron Farr's
shoulder, determined to see as much of the chase as pof-
sible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into the midst
of the -herd which then appeared to number over 200,
others having come in sight when the herd commenced lo
run. Porter was soon enveloped in the cloud of du^t
caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo on the dry
sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to
separate and scatter in every direction, a small party
coming down the bluff again and some running west un-
der the bluffs, others going over. The hunters closed in
on the first party and commenced their fire, especially
at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating from
all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they
killed her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded
her, left her with the hunters and pursued some of the
rest. The cow was now in close quarters and after she
had been shot through two or three times, Elder Kim-
ball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired
over his horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon
dispatched. At the report of the gun which was very
heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse sprang and flew
down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the
lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and
his situation was precarious to the extreme. The other
hunters saw his situation and trembled for his safety but
could render him no assistance. However, being a good
horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and
soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous ef-
fort succeeded after some time in reining in his horse
and returned to the rest unharmed and without accident.
120 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S TQURNAL.
All this movement passed about as quick as thought, airl
as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they again
followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this
time three of the herd separated from the rest and came
in a direction towards the camp on a gollop. President
Young seeing this, ordered a halt, and the wagons to get
close together lest the buffalo should, in their fury and
excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do
much mischief. However, they were discovered by some
of the hunters nearer the camp and some foot men who
gave chase to them changed their course when within
about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a very
good view of their shape, color and appearance when run-
ning which I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder
Kimball arrived in time to aid in the chase of these three
which lasted some time. The hunters made choice of a
large and very furious bull, and worked with him some
time, shooting him through several times but all this did
not seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he
had heard it said that a buffalo could not be hurt with
a ball shot at his head. Having a fair chance with this
one, he determined to satisfy himself, and (previous to
his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came right
in front within about a rod of him and discharged his
rifle pistol which struck the center of his head, but with
no other effect than to make it smoke a little, some dust
fly and the raving animal shake savagely. The brethren,
John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after succeeded in
dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack
being the one that dropped him. During all this, other
scenes were passing of equal interest. One of the cal-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 121
ves was discovered within a few rods of the wagons, a
shot fired at it and it was soon caught by the dogs, killed
and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf to
within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull.
Some of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and
soon after brought and put it in one of the wagons. Other
brethren were still away at the bluffs, but we had no
certainty of their success until Elder Kimball, John Pack,
and several others came up to the camp after dispatching
the bull and reported two other cows killed and three
calves. This was a little before 5 :00 p. m. When it was
ascertained for a certainty that one was killed, the rev-
enue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch it to camp.
It was reported that two other cows and three calves
were killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up
to the camp, President Young requested some of the
brethren to unload their wagons and go and fetch the
others reported to be killed, while the wagons would
strike towards the river and camp for the night. The
chase lasted from soon after 1 :00 until 4 :00 p. m. Soon
four wagons were unloaded, the brethren having their
loads on the ground in ,care of a guard, and were ready
to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in
his natural state, my feet being very sore, and the dis-
tance to the bluffs being over three miles, I got into
Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one who unloaded
to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot
down by Elder Kimball. He and O. P. Rockwell fol-
lowing on horseback. On our route, we met Luke Johnson
and two other hunters returning. Luke had a calf tied
on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at the
122 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on
foot and had already got the hide off, except the head.
She was soon cut in two, put in the wagon with the rest
of the meat, hide and head, and we started for the next
cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant.
This cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700
pounds. She was not very fat, but the meat looked nice
and clean. When we arrived at the next cow, we found
several of the brethren at work with her, they had got
her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then
proceeded to camp and got in soon after sundown. The
meat was unloaded in the semi-circle opposite the Presi-
dent's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread on
the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The
brethren's faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to
come into camp, and with some astonishment to view
the size and ferocious appearance of the head, which still
had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons came in
and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph
Mathews came in about the same time and reported that
he had killed another calf after chasing it three miles,
making the totol number killed in the first day's buffalo
hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints, already re-
ported as follows : one bull, three cows and six calves, a
circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best
hopes, and all without the slightest accident or loss to
man or property, except Luke Johnson's cap and a ram-
rod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade of suspense
caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not
returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three
buffalo were first discovered this morning and has not
WILLIAM] CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 123
been seen or heard of for sometime. Considerable fear
is entertained for his safety from the fact that he is lame,
and it is evident, or at least considered so, that there are
Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning
has been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight
miles to the west and must have been set on fire by some-
body and the probability is, it is Indians, although none
has been seen for several days. The meat was cut up
into quarters and distributed one quarter to each com-
pany of ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morn-
ing, and in a short time every fire was loaded with it,
and the camp had a good feast on the fruits of today's
labors.
Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came
to a long range of dog towns and saw many of the little
prairie dogs playing around their holes. The extent of
this dog town is yet unknown, for we have traveled over,
and paralled with it about five miles this afternoon, and
they seem to extend still farther west. In some places
the town is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much,
and must contain thousands of the little dogs. I could
not get near enough to see their form distinctly, for they
are so quick into their holes when anything approaches,
you can only have a partial view of them. They appear
to be about as long as a common grey squirrel but more
chunky, a larger body and chubbed head. The tail is
short, more resembling that of a dog, their color light
brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English
throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They
appear to live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the
ground throughout the extent of their dog town, and
124 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
the ground looks naked and barren as a desert. Several
of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in killing any.
We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather,
our course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far
distant from the island. Since noon we traveled about
eight miles, and the encampment was formed at half past
six o'clock near a small lake about a mile above the head
of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it
has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc.,
to fill themselves.
The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is
somewhat singular. The color of the back and about half
way down the sides is a light brown, the rest is a very
dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly rounding
and humped. When running, the large shaggy head
hangs low down, about half way in height between the
ground and the top of the shoulder. They canter like
any ox or cow, but appear far more cumbersome and
heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look larger
than they really are on account of the long, thick matty
hair. They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will
easily gain on them. They will run a long time without
diminishing their speed. Their meat is very sweet and
tender as veal.
SUNDAY. 2ND. This morning is fine but cold. Tee
about half an inch thick. Sometime in the night a buffalo
and calf came within a short distance of the wagons. The
guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding
it in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up
near the wagons but concluded finally to kill and dress
it. About six o'clock we were gladdened to see Joseph
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 125
Hancock come into camp with a piece of buffalo meat.
He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on
the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded
to stay by it over night. He made a fire and scattered a
little powder around his buffalo to keep off the wolves.
Some visited him during the night, but were awed by
the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,
Brother Hancock started in company with four or five
other brethren to fetch in the meat on horseback, as no
wagons could get over the bluffs to it. They found that the
wolves had devoured much of it, but the balance they
brought along with them. They also killed two antelope
and brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo
now caught is five large ones and seven calves. Edmund
Ellsworth killed one of the prairie dogs, and brought it
to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the body
is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day
grew pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and
cold. President Young, Kimball and others started out
to look out a camp ground where better feed can be
obtained for our stock. They returned a little after two
and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a
number of buffalo seen in different directions, one graz-
ing within three quarters of a mile from camp, but orders
were not to hunt or shoot today. At three-fifteen the
camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns as
yesterday. At a little after four p. m. we camped beside
a long lake of shoal, clear water near the banks of the
Platte. This lake is about three rods wide and connects
with the river. The Platte appears about two miles wide at
this place but very Jioal and muddy. There is no timber
126 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The
weather is more temperate and the wind ceased. Presi-
dent Young, Kimball and others went on to look out a
crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way, they
fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some
to get a view of them but not to kill. On their return
they said we should tarry here tomorrow and have some
blacksmith work done and probably hunt some. Half of
the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp. On
examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his
head. The ball made a small hole, barely cutting through
the outer' surface or grain of the hide which was near
an inch thick. The hair near the top of the head is about
a foot long.
MONDAY, SRD. (This morning cold and ice in the
water pails. The hunters are going out on foot. Tanner
and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some re-
pairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty
in number, started out with two wagons which had been
unloaded for the purpose. At the same time, fifteen of
the brethren on horseback started west to examine the
route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look out
the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had
discovered a large war party of Indians while he was
chasing an antelope. The Indians are in a hollow about
twelve miles distance and about three hundred in number,
some on their horses and some standing beside them hold-
ing the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty
scattered Indians about four miles from here. When this
report was made, orders were given to dispatch a num-
ber of the brethren on horses, well armed to warn the
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 127
hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half
an hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission.
Before they reached the bluffs which are about four miles
from here, some of the hunters were on their way to
camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day. In
a little time all the hunters were notified and were on
their way back. They arrived about six o'clock, having
got three antelope, and the horsemen who. went after
them got two calves which were all brought in and the
day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw
some objects at a distance, which, by their motions they
were satisfied were Indians. The day has been fine but
cool and cloudy, with occasionally a few drops of rain. A
number of wagon tires have been set and other blacksmith-
ing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near
south. The cannon was unlimbered at night and pre-
pared for action in ca.se it should be needed.
TUESDAY, 4xn. The morning fine but cool, wind
about southwest. Two horses ran east as much as six or
eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought
back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and
his senses knocked out of him by the fall. He soon re-
covered and appears to have sustained no injury.
At seven-thirty the camp was called and received in-
structions from President Young, especially in regard to
leaving the wagons and scattering off hunting without
counsel. He strongly urged the brethren not to do it any
more and said if they did, some of them would be caught
by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused.
The instructions and regulations given April 17th -were
read and enjoined upon the camp to be observed more
128 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
strictly. It was decided that the cannon wagon should be
unloaded, the box put on another wagon so that the can-
non can be always ready for action. An addition of ten
volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered
that all horses and mules should be tied inside the circle
at night, and the cattle and cows outside within a few
rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed around the
cattle when .turned out to graze. It is thought best to
travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to
go in the rear.
At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and
passed over the lake near its junction with the river, at
which place, it is about ten or twelve feet wide.
After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped
some time, waiting for some wagons behind. While
stopping, three wagons were discovered on the opposite
bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to
Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and
no person here acquainted with it, consequently no one
attempted to go over, which many desired. About eleven
o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast so as to be
better prepared for defense should the Indians attack
us. After traveling about two miles, one of the men
from the wagons on the other side the river overtook
us and we halted to see him. He said there are only nine
of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs and
are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day
since they left the fort with ox teams. He says the road
is good on the other side and the river easily forded,
being- not more than knee deep in the deepest place and
a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry letters
WILLIAM] CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 129
hack for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my
family and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was
made up to send back to Winter Quarters, and may the
Lord grant that it may arrive safely. Brother John-
son bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound
and a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for
a pound of sugar and a little pork. I feel my mind re
lieved by thus unexpected privilege of writing back to
my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure of
perusing the contents.
At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for
a march, and the messenger is returning with the letters
and a bag of provisions on his shoulder which the breth-
ren have given him for carrying the letters. We trav-
eled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped
to let the teams feed on a ^mall spot where the fire has
not touched, the rest having all been' burned off within a
few days. We have traveled today only about six miles,
having stopped much. The country is still very level
and nice traveling only for the dust: The wind south and
our course nearly west. When the trader went back over
the river, Thomas Woolsey, John .Brown and John Pack
accompanied him on horses to speak with a person whom
Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned soon
after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very
good to cross, not being more than two feet deep in the
deepest place, and the bottom good. The horses broke
through but very little. The traders say furthermore,
that if we continue on this side, we shall have to cross
the river twice where the water is much deeper and can-
not be crossed only in a ferry. There is a good trav-
10
130 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
eled road also, which would be an advantage we have not
got on this side. During the time we stopped to feed, a
guard was placed around the cattle and horses to keep
them from straying far from the wagons. Then men
were called out and drilled with their loaded guns in the
circle formed by the wagons. Some objects are seen
grazing about four miles west of us thought to be buffalo.
Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters ^re going out
to give them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At
a quarter after five o'clock, the camp was called together
and Brother Brown reported what the traders said about
the route, etc., as above. The subject was then talked
over and "when it was considered that we are making a
road for thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot
ford the river when the snow melts from the mountains,
it was unanimously voted to* keep on this side as far as
Fort Laramie at le'ast. Soon after this we started on
again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us
but it galloped across the river. Saw also a number of
antelope and some deer. About seven o'clock we passed
a spot where the Indians have camped and must have
been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived
at a creek of good water and camped for the night, hav-
ing traveled about nine miles today. The prairie level
but all the grass burned off, except in small patches. We
have camped on a small spot which has escaped the
fire. Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who
started out at four o'clock, said the objects seen from
camp were antelope, but he had seen a herd of buffalo
about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this
creek, Buffalo creek.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 131
WEDNESDAY, STH. The morning fine and very pleas-
ant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a few miles from
camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went on
foot about two miles and then stopped to count the
horses, mules, oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again
to the first wagons. Here Elder Kimball offered me his
horse to ride. I then went ahead with the horsemen.
We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to
bear off to the north to find a place to cross it. The
prairie after we crossed this slough about a mile wide
from the river was very soft and it was necessary to bear
still farther to the north. The horses feet cut through
the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although
there has been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty
we stopped to feed on a small patch of unburnt grass,
having come about nine miles, course about west, with a
very strong south wind. There were two buffalo within
about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the
brethren went to view them, but the orders of the day
are not to kill anything which the men cannot carry to
camp. There are no appearances of Indians near except
the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed
to be set on fire by them. About one p. m. continued our
journey and traveled till three p. m., when some of the
hunters came in, bringing a live buffalo calf, also one they
had killed. They reported that John Brown, Jackson
Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each
killed a calf. The one killed by Brother Higbee having
previously been shot by Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews
killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P. Rockwell and John
S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog
132 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without
shooting at it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter
was unloaded and sent after the cow and calf left, they
being about three miles off. We traveled on about a half
an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President
Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons
near the fire, ordered the camp to go back a half a mile
to an island where we can have water for our teams
and be secure from the fire. The prairie is all burned
bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren
look more like Indians than white folks. There is some
feed on the Island, and the cattle easily ford the stream
to it. The calf is tied in the circle. When a dog goes
near it, it will attack the largest and they flee from it,
though not more than six or eight weeks old. About
half past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat,
which was fatter than any we have had. They also
brought in another calf which they killed while out for
the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves brought
into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the
companies of ten, each having either a calf or half a
quarter of a cow.
THURSDAY, 6xH. This morning at five-fifteen, Presi-
dent Young called to the camp and proposed to go on to
where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren as-
sented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible.
However, some must feed their teams a little corn, some
milk their cows, etc., and it took till near six-thirty to
get started. During the night the Lord sent a light
shower of rain which has put the fire out except in one
or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 133
have had a strong southeast wind through the night but
the morning is calm and pleasant. We traveled about
two miles and stopped on the unburned grass to feed at
a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded
by the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The
rest made their escape. We can see several large herds
of buffalo, within about two miles of the camp and many
calves amongst them. President Young and Kimball
rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground
is hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, pro-
ceeded on, President Young and Kimball going ahead
to point out the road. Our course about northwest, the
wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw
thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous
herds of buffalo on both sides of the river. Jackson Red-
ding shot an antelope which Luke Johnson chased near
the wagons.
A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but
the President advised him to leave it as it is only a few
days old. We stopped near the river at a quarter to
twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a little
more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep
it eaten off close to the ground nearly all the way we have
traveled today. The President gave orders that no more
game should be killed until further orders. It appears we
have got as much meat in camp as can be taken care of.
While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows
moved off towards a large buffalo herd, and when Presi-
dent Young and Kimball started ahead after dinner they
discovered the cows near the buffalo. Brother Woolsey
went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule some
134 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
distance before he could prevent the cows from ming-
ling with the buffalo. They brought the cows back to
the wagons and then proceeded ahead again. One part
of the horsemen's business today has been to drive the
buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them
between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded
on at one-thirty and in about two miles distance found a
lake of clear water. Here we discovered the horsemen
coming back, and found that the President had lost his
large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo
herd, a second time. He did not find it. We traveled
slowly this afternoon, some of the horses and oxen having
given out in consequence of lack of feed to sustain them.
We traveled till six-thirty and camped near some islands
in the river, having traveled about seven miles this after-
noon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west
of northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have
traveled eighteen, some twenty and some even twenty-five
miles today, but from the number of times we stopped
and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel sat-
isfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of
a mile back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be
sick. She fought the dogs some time and then lay down,
and the brethren went close to her, some venturing to
feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of
her and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has
lost all her hair and looks very poor and weak. The
President ordered that the brethren leave her and not
disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is doubt-
ful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When
the brethren \vent back to hunt the spy glass they found
WILLIAM] CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 135
that the wolves had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up.
What they had not eaten, they carried off with them.
We have never been out of sight of herds of buffalo to-
day, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we
can see over five thousand with the glass. The largest
herd, we have yet seen is still ahead of us. The prairie
looks black with them, both on this and the other side
of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some
even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen
them. It is truly a sight wonderful to behold, and can
scarcely be credited by those who have not actually seen
them.
FRIDAY, 7in. This morning the wind northwest and
almost as cold as winter. The buffalo vastly numerous
all around. About eight a. m. the camp was called to-
gether and measures taken to raise more teams to put to
the canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have
given out. The President chastized Elder Snow for not
attending to the cows yesterday causing the President to
loose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's turn to drive
the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a
little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas
Brown and Joseph Mathews started back to hunt the
spy glass, and soon after they left, the camp roceeded on-
ward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course
about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and
camped at two-thirty near several small islands, on the
banks of the river. About four p. m., Porter and the
others returned, having found the spy glass which was
a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the
136 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
companies were called out to drill. I have been very sick
all day with a complaint and have suffered much.
SATURDAY, STH. Morning cold but fine. Started out
at nine o'clock and traveled till one p. m., distance seven
and a half miles, course a little west of northwest. The
prairie on both sides of the river is literally black with
buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen
this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a
moderate calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand.
They are more tame than they have been, and will stand
till the wagons come within two hundred yards of them.
Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks
nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It
is with some difficulty that the horsemen can drive them
away from the track as fast as the wagons come up. It
is very warm today, and no wind. I have counted the
revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this
method which is somewhat tedious, is because there is
generally a difference of two and sometimes four miles
in a day's travel between my estimation and that of some
others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This
morning I determined to take pains to know for a cer-
tainty how far we travel today. Accordingly I measured
the circumferenc of the nigh hind wheel of one of Brother
Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge of
Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in
circumference, not varying, one eighth of an inch. I then
calculated how many revolutions it would require for
one mile and found it precisely 360 not varying one frac-
tion which somewhat astonished me. I have counted the
WILLIAM] CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 137
whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it
to be a little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty
revolutions over. The overplus I shall add to the next
day's travel. According to my previous calculations we
were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters
this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles
I placed a small cedar post in the ground with these
words written on it with a pencil. "From Winter Quarters,
two hundred ninety-five miles, May 8, '47. Camp all well.
Wm. Clayton." Some have past the days travel at
thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to con-
vince more strongly that the distances are overrated. I
have repeatedly suggested a plan of fixing machinery to
a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance we travel in a
day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into
effect, and I hopfe it will be done. Our course this after-
noon has been northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare
as a poor English pasture, the grass being eaten off by
uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor tongue can
give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually,
and it appears difficult to keep them away from the
wagons. Two calves have been killed and brought to
camp and multitudes would be killed if the President
did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only as
we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the
thousand hills are numerous. We are now camped on
the banks of the river within a quarter of a mile from
where the range of bluffs, which have appeared exceed-
ingly ragged all day strike the river, and when we move
again we have got to cross over them. President Young
and Kimball have been back on the bluffs on foot some
138 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
distance and report that as far as they can see the grass
is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our
teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying
dead around here whether dead from old age, or by the
hands of hunters or of starvation, it is unknown. Many
of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry buffalo
dung, there being no wood near.
SUNDAY, 9xH. The morning very cold with wind
southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded on three and a
half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs until
we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We
have camped near some islands and can get wood and
water, but poor feed for the teams. We arrived here at
nine-fifty and shall stay till morning. Soon as the camp
was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile below
to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief
as well as I could in cold water without soap. I then
stripped my clothing off and washed from head to foot,
which has made me feel much more comfortable for T
was covered with dust. After washing and putting on
clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and
gave way to a long train of solemn reflections respecting
many things, especially in regard to my family and their
welfare for time and eternity. I shall not write my
thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have
to pass through other thands besides my own or that of
my family but if I can carry my plans into operation, they
will be written in a manner that my family will each get
their portion, whether before my death or after, it mat-
ters not.
The dav is very warm and the wind has moved to
WILLIAM] CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 139
the west. According to my calculations, we are now
300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a few rods. I
got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quar-
ters three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all
well. Distance according to the reckoning of Wm. Clay-
ton." This was nailed on a post and in the everting I
went and set it up about three hundred yards from here
on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and
writing in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p. m. a
meeting was called and the camp addressed by several.
President Young took tea with Elder Kimball, and after-
wards they started out together with one or two others
to look at the country ahead of us. They went a few
miles and found a small stream which we shall have to
cross. Here they saw multitudes of buffalo coming to
water. Porter a*nd Phineas Young went within six or
eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole
herd, they could not find one fit to kill. They are very
poor, for there is no feed for them, and in fact they are
so numerous that they eat the grass as fast as it springs.
There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and
good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew
strong from the northwest and the evening was cold and
chilly.
MONDAY, lOrn. The morning fine but cool. The
wind nearly ceased. Last night I dreamed that I was in
company with the camp which was stopping beside a
considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle
were tied to stakes all around the camp to the distance
of a quarter of a mile, some good timber thinly scattered
around. I thought President Young, Kimball and sev-
140 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
eral others started up the river in a flat boat without
stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the
camp, cattle, etc. in their absence. When they had been
gone sometime I thought a large herd of buffalo came
on full gallop right amongst our horses and cattle, caus-
ing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.
The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know
what to do. Seeing a small skiff in the river, I sprang
into it, and a paddle lying in it, I commenced rowing in
pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I literally
flew through the water passing everything on the way
like a railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook
the brethren in the flat boat, took the skiff and threw it
on shore and to my astonishment I saw that the skiff
was made only of barks and cracked all over, and it
seemed impossible to put it in the water without sink-
ing it. The paddle with which I had rowed proved to
be a very large feather and I had another feather in my
left hand with which I steered the skiff. When I got into
the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the camp,
but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and
behold, it was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to de-
posit a letter in a stick of wood prepared for the pur-
pose near this place in such a manner that the next com-
pany will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and
being assisted by President Young and others raised it
and fixed it firm in the ground. His distance from Winter
Quarters three hundred and sixteen miles. At nine five
the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two miles
we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named
Skunk creek, easily forded, though the ground was soft
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 141
on the west side. About this time the brethren at the
head of the camp discovered a strange horse alone on the
prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try
to catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the
Mississippi company passed on the other side last season,
one of the brethren lost a. mare and two colts, and this is
supposed to be the oldest of the two. When Brother
Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion
last winter they saw the same horse near here. We trav-
eled till twelve five and finding a little better feed
stopped for dinner having traveled a few rods over six
males. The last two miles was over very soft prairie
and although the last year's grass has not been burned,
the wheels cut through the sod frequently. At the creek
four miles back, some of the brethren shot a buffalo which
was brought into camp in the revenue cutter. The meat
is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At two
we continued our journey. About the same time Porter
and Brown returned having failed to catch the horse.
After traveling about half a mile we crossed a very bad
slough, and beyond that for a mile the ground was wet
and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past
four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike
for the timber which was a little out of our course, but
necessary to favor the teams and obtain wood and water.
We arrived near the timber and camped at four fifty, hav-
ing traveled since my last guide post a little over nine
and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground
being dry and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a
deer and we had some vension for supper. Our course
a little north of west. Light wind from northwest. The
142 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for
cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better
timber than we have had for some time past. It appears
plain that vast herds of buffalo have wintered here, but
have mostly left and gone eastward sometime ago, and
we have the full growth of this year's grass which is
small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther
west we travel, and nature seems to have taught the
wild cattle this lesson, hence their eastward progress.
There are some scattering herds of buffalo around, but
not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty miles
back. The face of the country here is indeed bautiful,
the soil rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each
side of the river have a splendid appearance, and at about
ten miles distance, west of where we now are, they seem
to circle around until they form a junction. It appars
evident also, that we are above the junction of the north
and south forks of the Platte, the north fork running
nearly northwest and the south fork southwest. Brother
Woolsey says these are the forks in reality, but are con-
nected some miles higher up by a slough, and consequently
the land between is set down by travelers as the main
land rather than as an island.
TUESDAY, HTH. The morning cold. Wind east;
camp well. At 7:00 a. m. went with a number of the
brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a
hole about a quarter of a mile from camp. They dug
out four and brought them alive to camp. They are
probably six or eight weeks old and about the size of
an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the
camp moved onward over a very nice level, dry prairie
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 143
for five miles. Amongst the timber on the island could
he seen many small cedar trees. At the end of five
miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy
bluffs, which extended to the river. After .passing nearly
over the bluffs we stopped half an hour to water the
teams and eat a little dinner, then proceeded on three
miles farther and passed over a creek of clear water,
but this could not be very good in consequence of so
many -dead buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half
a mile, and finding tolerably good feed, stopped for the
night, having traveled eight and half miles today.
Weather fine, wind south and southeast ; course a little
west or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today,
but there are signs of thousands having wintered in the
neighborhood. The country looks beautiful, soil rich,
only lacking timber. After the camp was formed, it
being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells,
ami about four feet deep found plenty of good water.
One of the wells is reported to run a pail full a minute.
Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the machinery
for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects
to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me
the trouble of counting, as I have done, during the last
four days. Took supper on some duck presented to
Elder Kimball by George Billings.
WEDNESDAY, 12TH. Morning cool, weather fine.
Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the machinery
on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the
number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon
wheel. We started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft,
the rest tolerably hard and very good traveling. We
144 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
have passed over vast beds of salt, or rather dust with
a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour. Trav-
eled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and
stopped at 12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small
islands. The feed tolerably good. Our course north-
west. Considerable strong wind from southeast cov-
ering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No
timber on the bank of the river and but little on the
islands. The hunters report that they have seen many
dead buffalo between here and the bluff with the hides
off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians
have been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh
and lately killed. The range of bluffs on each side the
river extend much farther apart, and near the foot of
the south range can be seen timber scattering along,
which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that
direction, although some are sanguine that we have not
yet arrived at the junction.
At half past three we moved on again and trav-
eled four miles, camped at a quarter to six near a bunch
of small islands, and a kind of bayou projecting from
the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of
west, having come around a considerble bend in the
river. The land good and good traveling. Wind
Southeast. Several of the brethren caught a number
of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is
rather scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and
northwest, and a fair prospect for some rain which is
much needed. It is now certain that we are about four-
teen and a half miles above the junction of the north
and south forks of the Platte, and although we have
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 145
-
to make a new road all the way, we find no obstacles so
far. Brother Woodruff reports that he has been be-
yond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards
of 200 wickeups where the Indians have camped very
recently.
He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of
other skins also. The hunters killed a two year old
buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother Orson Pratt
reports that when we were five and a half miles back,
we were in latitude 41 9' 44".
THURSDAY, 13TH. This morning cold and cloudy,
cold enough for overcoats and buffalo robes. The buf-
falo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided
this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some
feelings are manifest this morning between Brothers
Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account of the
former taking the latter prisoner and putting him un-
der a guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a
little out of order in conversing loud after the horn
blew for prayers, but I think Brother Tanner's angry
spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward
nearly a -west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped
to feed teams at a spot which is a little better than we
generally have. The wind strong from north and north-
east.
At half past twelve we proceeded on again and
traveled till four o'clock, distance six and three quarters
miles. At this distance we arrived at a stream about
six rods wide which appears to come from the north-
east, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom
of the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two
11
146 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
feet deep ; at the sides quite shoal. It appears that
travelers have never discovered this stream for it is not
noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed
it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The
weather cloudy and very cold, with a strong- north wind.
Presidents Young and Kimball rode ahead as usual to
look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a
mile west come clear to the river and are considerably
high. They found several ranges of them and finally
found a valley running between some of the ranges
through which we can pass by going about a mile
around from our course. This stream according to
measurement, twenty-five and one quarter miles above
the junction of the two forks and 341 miles from Winter
Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it
the North Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here
four of the brethren went to chase a few buffalo which
were lying down at the foot of the bluffs, but they did
not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very
large rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says
the largest he ever saw in his life. I saw a small green
snake today, very pretty, the back light green and the
belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball suf-
fered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to
look for a road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking,
there being no timber.
FRIDAY, 14TH. The morning cloudy and very cold.
In the west could occasionally be seen streaks of light-
ning and distant thunder heard. At 8 :00 a. m. the dark
clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining
pretty hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 147
President ordered the horses -got up just before the rain
commenced; and after the storm ceased, we started on-
ward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about a
mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our
course lying nearly in a north direction for some time,
then turning south and on again approaching the river,
nearly southeast. When within about three quarters of
a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty
minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles.
We have got on the level bottom again and are probably
not more than three miles in a direct line from where
\ve started this morning. Presidents Young and Kim-
ball went forward to point out the route, which is very
good to travel, although considerably uneven. Brother
Higbee killed an antelope and wounded another which
made its escape while he was loading his rifle. We
have better feed here than we have had for some time.
We had a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We
have not had much wind this morning but it is now in-
creasing from the north. It is somewhat warmer than
this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if
we might have more rain. The land between the two
forks for about 25 miles is perfectly flat and very level
without timber.
The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line
from fork to fork. There are many buffalo back in
the valleys between the bluffs, and although there is no
sign of the prarie having been burned, it is evident the
buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved
back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunt-
ing them. Some of the brethren have discovered fresh
148 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
tracks where the Indians have gone up this north stream,
evidently very lately. But we are satisfied the Lord
hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of
the way before we come up to them. At three o'clock
we proceeded on our journey, keeping above the lower
prairie, which appeared soft and swampy. Our road was
very uneven. We went two and a half miles and at half
past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead
to look out the road. There is another high range of
bluffs about half a mile west of us, extending to trie
river. Elder Kimball went across the several ranges
of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road in
various directions, but there did not appear to 'be any
possibility of finding a road between the bluffs, with-
out going many miles around. President Young and he
concluded it would be best to camp where the wagons
are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by
doubling teams. Accordingly the encampment was
formed about five-thirty, the train having traveled eight
and three quarters miles today. Our course this after-
noon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our
teams grows much better, and on one of these high
sandy bluffs I saw a large bed of flowers, not unlike the
violet, and very rich. The sand on the bluffs iri some
places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other places
seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy
rains. The atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold
as it has been. The hunters have killed two buffalo,
three antelope and one badger during the day, which
will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters
returned to gfive the information. The revenue cutter
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 149
was sent after the meat which was reported to be a mile
and a half distant. It was late when they returned.
There was an alarm made by the guard in the night
supposing the Indians were near. The camp were
aroused to secure their horses, but we had no further
trouble about them.
I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is try-
ing to have it understood that he invented the machin-
ery to tell the distance we travel, which makes me think
less of him than I formerly did. ' He is not the inventor
of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery,
after being told how to do it. What little souls work.
SATURDAY, ISxn. This morning is very cloudy and
very cold, more like a January morning than a May
morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast.
The brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it
to camp last night, but put it in the boat and left it till
morning. About half past seven they brought it in and
divided it to the captains of ten. At eight o'clock it com-
menced raining again but abated a little before nine. At
nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling
three-quarters of a mile began to ascend the sandy
bluffs. It commenced raining again and it looks like
rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues
strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the
bluffs, but only about a mile before we descended to
the bottom. We traveled a piece farther and at half
past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the
teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a
quarter miles. We found it unnecessary to double teams
while crossing the bluffs and we got over without dif-
150 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
ficulty, much better than we had anticipated. About
noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given
to harness up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded
and traveled till a quarter to three, distance four and a
half miles, then formed the encampment in a circle
about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has
been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling.
The bluffs are about half a mile to the north and sev-
eral herds of buffalo grazing on them. Some of the
hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind
still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable.
The feed appears better here than we have had for some
days, and the cattle soon fill themselves which is a com-
fort and blessing to the camp. Some of the brethren
have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead
wood but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo
dung which abounds everywhere, but the rain has in-
jured it some for burning. About two miles back we
passed a place where the Indians have lately camped
during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are
amongst their number as the foot prints and moccasins
of children have several times been seen. They evi-
dently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and for
seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around
their fire which is in the center. We have passed a
number of these little temporary camping spots this
afternoon. The reason why we did not travel farther
was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out
the road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs
that the feed is all eaten off by the numerous herds of
buffalo and found also, that we shall have to travel
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 151
over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be im-
possible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence
the necessity of stopping here where we have good feed.
The soil on this prairie looks good and rich but there is
no timber. In fact there is none in sight, except a
small grove on the other side the river about two miles
west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came
in and reported that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was
sent for it to bring it to camp. Our course this after-
noon nearly west.
SUNDAY, 16TH. Morning fine, but chilly and cold.
Wind north. Eric Glines killed an antelope near the
camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after
breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff
and Benson went on horseback to look out the best road
over the bluffs. They returned at half past twelve and
reported that we can pass through a valley between and
around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across
them. About 5 :00 p. m. several buffalo were seen mak-
ing their way from the bluffs towards our horses, some
of which were very near them. Brother Eric Glines
started out with the intention of driving the buffalo
away, and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he
got near, the buffalo did not seem much disposed to
move and he shot at one of them and wounded him.
He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed
him and shot three times more at him. The buffalo then
ran about forty rods, fell, and soon expired. I went to
look at him. He is a large one, judged to weigh about
700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the breth-
ren skinning him and returned to camp where a meet-
152 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
ing had been called at 5:00 p. m., and the brethren ad-
dressed by Elders Richards, Markham, Rockwood and
Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and
Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the
Sabbath. He woud not do it even in case of necessity,
but he did not feel disposed to find fault with the breth-
ren. The laws and regulations for the camp of April
18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meet-
ing dismissed. About noon today Brother Appleton
Harmon completed the machinery on the wagon called
a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in
ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile
we travel, and then casing the whole over so as to secure
it from the weather. We are now prepared to tell ac-
curately, the distance we travel from day to day which
will supercede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfac-
tion not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel
this way. I have prepared another board to put up here
on which the distance from Winter Quarters is marked
at 356 3/4 miles. I have also written on it that the last
seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to
measure and put up guide posts as often as circum-
stances will permit through the journey. The whole
machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches long placed
on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near
which are six arms placed at equal distances around
it, and in which a. cog works which is fastened on the
hub of the wagon wheel, turning the shaft once round
at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The up-
per gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the
wagon box, and near this gudgeon on the shaft a screw
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 153
is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of about forty-five
degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on
an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes
one revolution each mile. In the shaft on which this
wheel runs, four cogs are cut on the fore part which
plays in another wheel of forty cogs which shows the
miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased
over and occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15
inches high and 3 inches thick.
After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was
sent to fetch the meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They
soon returned and the meat was distributed as usual.
Presidents Young and Kimball have walked out together
towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made
me a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tal-
low, by the light of which I continue this journal. Al-
though, as may be expected, the buffalo are generally
poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother Whipple
has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his
portion of meat received yesterday morning. The candle
burns very clear and pleasant. The tallow smells sweet
and rich. I imagine it has a more pleasant smell than
the tallow of domestic cattle.
MONDAY, 17xH. The morning very cold and chilly,
wind northwest. Dr. Richards left another letter on
the camp ground for the benefit of the next company.
The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden
case, and placed so that the brethren can hardly miss
finding it.
We started on our journey at 8:13 a. m. After
traveling a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of
154 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
another range of bluffs which extend to the river, and
began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from
the river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter
of a mile farther, we crossed a stream of spring water
about three feet wide. The road for a little distance
on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked.
We then turned westward, and passed over a number of
bluffs as there was no chance to go around them with-
out going miles out of our course. On these sandy
bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or
five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which
is an inch and a half long. The body looks short and
chunky and is of a light grey color with two rows of
dark brown spots on each side of the body which make
it appear striped. The head is shaped something like
the head of a snake. They appear perfectly harmless
and are pretty in appearance. After traveling two and a
quarter miles beyond the last mentioned stream, we ar-
rived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of
the road very sandy and there are several very steep
places of descent. However all the teams got safely
over without difficulty. At the west foot of the bluffs,
there appears more grass than anywhere we have yet
been, although the buffalo have eaten it off consider-
ably. Within a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we
crossed two small streams of spring water and at a mile
from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a stream of spring
water about four feet wide with a very rapid current.
The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we
have to keep near the bluffs to make a good road to
travel, and in fact, we find it more or less soft and
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 155
springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter
west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream
of very clear spring water. The others are rather muddy
by running over sandy land. They all appear to have
their rise in the bluffs a short distance from our road.
At 11 :35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morn-
ing, six and three quarters miles. Our course west,
weather fine, warm, and little wind. While we were
resting, one of President Young's horses (in care of
Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of
men soon collected and with a rope dragged it out,
washed and rubbed it, and all was well again. Latitude
41 12' 50".
At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After trav-
eling a half a mile, we arrived at a very shoal stream of
clear water about thirty feet wide but not over three
inches deep in the channel which is about three feet
wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over
a short range of low sandy bluffs about a quarter of
a mile wide and then entered on level prairie again,
but we found it very soft and springy. Within two and
a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed
two others, one very small, the other about four feet
wide. They both doubtless rise from springs at the foot
of the bluffs. About ten minutes after three o'clock,
word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters
about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to
skin and dress it. About the same time the revnue cut-
ter arrived with two more buffalo one said to have been
killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John Brown,
also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons
156 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
halted at a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat,
which immediately returned to fetch the other buffalo
which was killed by Porter Rockwell. The meat was
cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at half past
four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till
5 :50 p. m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie
where the grass is shorter than that we have passed all
day. We traveled this afternoon six miles and during
the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course.
We are some distance from water but several wells were
soon dug and good water obtained at about four feet
deep. Soon after we camped the boat came in with
the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally
around the camp, but it appears that some have already
got more than they need and feel unwilling to take a
good forequarter. The bluffs on the opposite side the
river project to the river for some distance opposite this
place. Latitude 41 13' 20".
TUESDAY, 18TH. The morning fine and very pleas-
ant. At seven o'clock the President called the captains
of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe lec-
ture. He referred to some who had left meat on the
ground and would not use it because it was not hind
quarter. Some would rriurmur because a fore quarter
of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right,
for God has given us a commandment that we should
not waste meat, nor take life unless it is needful, but
he can see a disposition in this camp to slaughter every-
thing before them, yea if all the buffalo and game there
is on our route were brought together to the camp, there
are some who would never cease until they had destroyed
WILLIAM: CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 157
the whole. Some men will shoot as much as thirty times
at a rabbit if they did not kill it, and are continually
wasting their ammunition, but when they have used all
they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying
their empty guns to the mountains and back, for he will
not furnish them. We have now meat enough to last
some time if we will take proper care of it. As to the
horsemen, there are none with the exception of Broth-
ers Kimball, Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the
trouble to look out a good road for the wagons but all
they seem to care about is to wait till their breakfast is
cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they
mount their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope
comes across the track, the whole of us must be stopped
perhaps half an hour while they try to creep up near
enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place on
the route, all the interest they have is to get across the
best they can and leave myself and one or two others
to pick out a crossing place and guide the camp all the
time. Such things are not right, and he wants them to
cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the camp,
be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from
God and not as a stink offering from the devil. It is not
necessary to preach to the elders in this camp, they
know what is right as well as he does, and he will not
preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the
best they know how and teach their men to do likewise.
The meeting dispersed, the meat was taken care of and
at a quarter past eight we started out again, and trav-
eled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course over
a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived
158 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
at a nice stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or
twenty-five feet wide, a foot or 18 inches deep and a
very strong current. This stream must take its rise some
distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many
strong springs, for there is much water comes down it.
We traveled on from this near the bank of the river
about a northwest course over tolerably rough land till
11:10 and then stopped to feed having come six and a
half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Oppo-
site the stream last mentioned on the south side the river,
are several pine groves, or rather cedar groves. There
is some little pine wood, such as knots and dead branches
that can be picked up on the banks of the river. It has
floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips,
makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41 3'
44". Rattlesnake creek was so named from the follow-
ing incident : President Young, as he rode up to the
banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped
within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned
his horse away without harming it. Soon afterward, one
of the brethren came up on foot and stepped within two
feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up and
sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang
2 1/2 feet) had he not jumped to one side. He took his
rifle and shot the snake dead.
The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont,
is three miles west of where we camped last night. At
1 :05 p. m. we continued our journey. Our route lay
near the banks of the river which seems narrower here.
After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a
stream about six feet wide, and three quarters of a mile
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 159
farther another stream of tolerably deep, clear water
about five feet wide. This stream is very crooked and
seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect
serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this
afternoon, we discovered some dog towns, the grass
eaten perfectly bare all around. The feed is growing worse
again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At noon, a heavy
black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain, ac-
companied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing
the last mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change
our course to nearly northwest on account of a bend in
the river. We traveled till 5 :30 and formed our en-
campment on the west bank of a running stream about
eight feet wide and one. foot deep which is five miles
from the crooked creek, making our afternoon' travel
nine and a quarter miles and the day's travel fifteen and
three quarters. The bluffs and the river here are about
a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor,
plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The
weather calm and warm, though cloudy. After encamp-
ment was formed, went with Elder Orson Pratt to Dr.
Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making
a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it,
assisted by Elder Pratt's observations. He handed me
Fremont's map, and I retired to my 'wagon to commence
operations, but soon found that the map does not agree
with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then
proposed to Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the
journey and take all the necessary data and then make
a new one instead of making our route on Fremont's.
The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took
160 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark
Colonel Markham called the camp together to tell the
brethren their duty in regard to traveling, guarding
teams, and standing guard at nights. The old laws of
April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws
added, but not being present I did not hear them, neither
can I learn anything from those who were preset, for
they all say that there were so many little matters
touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they
remembered only one, and that is, when any man goes
out of the sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and
sees aother man's horse or mule or ox, a little beyond
or near his, he shall drive it also to camp, and if he neg-
lect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even if it
requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock
the wind shifted around to the north and blew strong
and cold.
WEDNESDAY, 19TH. It has rained a little most of
the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy and like for a
i?.iny day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it
was thought best to move on before breakfast a few
miles and seek better feed. We started out at 5 :05,
the second division having the right to lead, but a part
of the first division being ready a little before all the
second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove
fast and those of the second division behind had to leave
the track and run their teams to take their places. We
traveled two and three quarters miles, our course eleven
and one forth degrees north of west, and then crossed
a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile
farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 161
within about one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and
a mile from the river which takes a bend south from
where we camped last night and runs close to the bluffs
On the south side. We then turned our course to a little
west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs
on this side, and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and
halted for breakfast at 6:20, having traveled three and
a quarter miles. The main body of the camp have
stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from
where we started this morning. The road is mostly
sandy, tall grass of last year's growth. The two streams
we passed seem to form many ponds of clear water ex-
tending at short distances from each other from the
bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over
the bluffs to look out the road. It continues to rain a
little occasionally with light north wind. Elder Kim-
ball found that the bluffs project entirely to the river and
are very sandy, but we can cross them without going out
of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded
onward a little and then waited till the rest of the wagons
came up. At the distance of nearly a mile and a half,
we crossed a stream about twenty feet wide, not very
deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at the dis-
tance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the
bluffs and began to ascend without doubling teams.
Some of the teams stuck by, but by the assistance of the
extra men, they all got up. The bluffs are very high,
sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably,
making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quar-
ters of a mile from the east foot to the west foot follow-
ing our trail which is nearly straight. About 200 yards
12
162 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed another
stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time
sicce we started after breakfast and continues. Conse-
quently at half past ten the camp formed into platoons
and then halted to wait for more favorable weather,
having traveled six miles today over the worst road we
have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubt-
less, by the heavy rains. About half past two the weather
looked a little more favorable and orders were given to
move on. We started at five minutes to three, about
which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two
miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle
on the banks of the river, having traveled two miles and
through the day, eight miles. The first mile this evening
was over very soft prairie, the last hard and good. The
rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has
been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the
hardest on our teams. The brethren, however, feel' well
and cheerful. The ox teams are improving in their con-
dition, but the horses do not stand it as well. The stream
at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named
Wolf creek from the following circumstance : When
Elder Kimball went ahead this morning to search out a
road, he went up the creek about a mile and around over
the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road than the one
close to- the river. While he was searching, about a mile
north from the river he went down into a deep hollow
surrounded by high bluffs and as he was riding alone?
at the bottom, he turned his head to the left and saw two
very large wolves at about five rods distance gazing at
him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two
WILLIAM 1 CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 163
year old steer. When he saw these he looked around on
the other side and saw several others about the same dis-
tance from him, very large ones, and all gazing fiercely
at him. This startled him considerably, and more espe-
cially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made
a noise to try to scare them away but they still stood, and
he concluded to move away as soon as he could. They
did not follow him and he saw a dead carcass near, which
satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast. On
mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they
named the creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and
forth over ten miles searching out a road before break-
fast. He also went out again afterwards and got badly
wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and re-
main in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy
with wind from the northeast. The rain had ceased about
six o'clock, but it still looks stormy.
THURSDAY, 20rH. The morning fair, but cloudy,
light wind from northwest and cold. At 7 :45 we started
out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a mile
before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain
yesterday having caused the wood to swell and stick fast.
One of the cogs in the small wheel broke. We stopped
about a half an hour and Appleton Harmon took it to
pieces and put it up again without the small wheel. I
had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a
mile from where we camped, we crossed a creek eight
feet wide and two and a half feet deep. We then changed
our course to about southwest a mile or so following the
banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy
nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about
164 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
three miles in a bend and then strikes a little north of
west. The bluffs on the north appear to be about two
miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and then
halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters
miles over tolerably good road, though at the commence-
ment somewhat soft. On the opposite side the river, the
bluffs project near its banks. They are rocky and al-
most perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of
cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we caVi see a
ravine running up the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bot-
tom of about fifteen acres. At the farther side of this
bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf. Brother Brown
thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called
Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all
felt anxious to ascertain the fact whether this is Ash
Hollow or not, for if it is, the Oregon trail strikes the
river at this place, and if it can be ascertained that such is
the fact, we then have a better privilege of testing Fre-
mont's distances to Laramie. We have already discov-
ered that his map is not altogether correct in several re-
spects, and particularly in showing the windings of the
river and the distance of the bluffs from it. I suggested
the propriety of some persons going over in the boat and
Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young.
The boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river,
and Orson Pratt, Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John
Brown started to row over, but the current was so ex-
ceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown
then jumped into the river which was about two and a
half feet deep and dragged the boat over, the others as-
sisting with the oars. After some hard labor they ar-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 165
rived on the opposite shore and went to the hollow. They
soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is
Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road
to near Laramie last season with the Mississippi com-
pany and knew the place perfectly well. They gathered
some branches of wild cheery in full bloom, rambled over
the place a little while and then returned to camp. About
the same time the camp prepared to pursue their journey.
The brethren arrived and made their report, and at 1 :45
p. m. we proceeded onward. From the appearance of the
bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west and
northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after
we started, one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake
within a rod of the road made by the wagons and on the
side where the cows travel. He killed it to prevent its
injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In
the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow,, there
are several small islands on which grow many trees of
cedar. One of these islands is perfectly green over with
cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also on the south
side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently
for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpen-
dicular, running pretty close to the river. On this side
the river, the bluffs seem to bear farther to the north,
being apparently about three miles from the river, and a
few miles farther west they are as much as five miles
from the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles
from the noon stop, we crossed a tributary stream run-
ning into the Platte, in a very crooked direction, being
from four to eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep
mo>t of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current
166 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some
had to double teams to get over, but all got over safely.
We proceeded on about four miles farther and found that
the river bends considerably to the noith. The bluifs also
bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front almost
reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We
went a little farther and camped for the night at half past
five, having traveled this afternoon eight miles, making
fifteen and three quarters miles during the day. Elder
Kimball and several others went forward on horses to
pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of
herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks
like penny royal, smells almost like it, but tastes hot and
like the oil of cloves. Elder Kimball and others saw a
very large wolf about half a mile west, and he appeared to
be following them to camp. They turned and rode up to
him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they
did not go off, being damp. He finally made his escape.
The large stream we crossed this afternoon is named
Castle Creek from the bluffs on the opposite side which
much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is
built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a
light shower this afternoon, but the evening is fine though
very cool.
FRIDAY, 21 ST. The morning very fine and pleasant
though tolerably cold. I put up a guide board at this
place with the following inscriptions on it: "From Winter
Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North
and South Forks, 93 1/4 miles. From Cedar Bluffs,
south side the river, 36 1/2 miles. Ash Hollow, south
side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May 21, 1847.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 167
According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Lara-
mie. N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs."
At 7:35 we continued our journey. We found the prai-
rie tolerably wet, many ponds of water standing which
must have been caused by a heavy fall of rain, much more
heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad
traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning
at about the distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs
on the north appear to be five miles or over from our
road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner, having traveled
nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north of
northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young
and Kimball rode forward to pick the road, and near this
place they saw a nest of wolves, caught and killed two
with sticks. Four or five others escaped to their hole.
At half past one we proceeded onward and found the
prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After
traveling four and three quarters miles we arrived at a
range of low bluffs projecting to the river, which at this
place bends to the north. There is, however, bottom of
about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river, but as
it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs
by bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the
bluffs a little over a quarter of a mile and then turned on
the bottom again. The bluffs are low ami almost as level
as the bottom. After we crossed the bluffs we found the
road better. We saw about a mile this side of the foot
of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone.
Most of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of
a mammoth, and is very large indeed. About this time
a badger was brought to the wagons which Brother
168 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and look-
ing over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down
saw that I had stepped within a foot of it. It rattled
hard but seemed to make away. We threw it away from
the track without killing it. At five o'clock Elder Kim-
ball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last
ones got nearer saying that some Indians had come down
from the bluffs to the brethren ahead. When the rest
of the wagons came up we moved on a quarter of a mile
farther and at half past five formed our encampment in a
circle with the wagons close together as possible, hav-
ing traveled seven and three quarters miles this afternoon,
making fifteen and a half through the day. As the camp
was forming the two Indians came nearer, being a man
and his squaw. They represented by signs that they were
Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs
north of us and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we
could see several on the bluffs with their ponies, evidently
watching our movements. This man was hunting when
first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the brethren.
The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could
go, but by signs made to them they gathered courage and
came up. President Young gave orders not to bring them
into camp, and they soon rode off to the bluffs. The
man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well
dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses
which makes us suspect they have stolen them from trav-
elers. The day has been very warm and some of the
teams gave out. We can see some timber on the bluffs
on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is
the first timber we have seen for more than a week, ex-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 169
cept some small cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all
on the south side the river. We are nearly a mile from
water and the brethren have to dig wells to obtain a sup-
ply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much
but old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little
north of west. Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks
with one ball and brought them to camp. Elder Kimball
proposed tonight that I should leave a number of pages
for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and
start from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished
me a candle and I wrote the journal of this day's travel
by candle light in his journal, leaving fifty-six pages
blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant. The
latitude at noon halt 41 24' 5".
SATURDAY, 22ND. Morning beautiful, no wind and
warm. We have not been disturbed by the Indians ; all
is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued our
journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having
to bend south to near the banks of the river. The prairie
somewhat soft and a little uneven. After traveling five
and a half miles we crossed a very shoal creek about
twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile apart,
but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back
from the river and have lost their craggy and steep ap-
pearance, the ascent being gradual, while on this side they
begin to be rocky, cragged and almost perpendicular
though not very high. We traveled till half past eleven
and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a
quarter miles, the road on this side the creek being bet-
ter. Our course about west of northwest with a light
breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and others ahead as
170 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab
Creek because some of the brethren saw a very large
crab in it. A mile east of this creek is a dry creek, down
which, from appearances, a heavy stream runs at some
seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms. The
water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable
height and it is certain there are tremendous storms here.
A while after we halted, Porter Rockwell came in and
said he had been on the high bluff about a mile north-
west of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock
which appeared a long distance off. We have been in
hopes to come in sight of it today and feel anxious in
order to ascertain more certainly the correctness of Fre-
mont's distance. In order to satisfy myself, although my
feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my
telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself
whether the noted rock could be seen or not. At half
past twelve I started out alone. I found the distance to
the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent gradual.
From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many
huge rocks having broken from the summit from time to
time and rolled down a long distance. I found the ascent
very steep and lengthy in comparison to its appearance
from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice
slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in
extent, but barren and very little grass on it. Huge
comparatively smooth rocks peeped through the surface
on one of which I wrote with red chalk : " Wm. Clayton.
May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took
a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent
indeed. On the south at the distance of two miles from
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 171
the river, there is a range of cedar trees on the bluffs
which very much resemble some of the parks and seats
of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped
last night, the high grass still burning. Northeast,
north, and northwest, alternately, appeared high swell-
ing bluffs and valleys as far as the eye could see or the
glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for ten or
fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a
large bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs
on this side. At the -distance, I should judge of about
twenty miles, I could see Chimney Rock very plainly with
the naked eye, which from here very much resembles the
large factory chimneys in England, although I could not
see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west
from here. After gratifying my curiosity, and seeing
the men collecting their teams for a march, I descended
on the west side of the bluff. The descent at this point
looks more alarming than on the other. The side being
very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically,
that to all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate
them to the prairie below with tremendous force. In one
place in particular, a ponderous mass of rock appears to
hang from the edge of the bluff without any visible means
of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it a little
while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready
to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the
base of the bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery
above and was struck at the appearance of a large rock
projecting from one corner, which very much resembled a
frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open. The
thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what
172 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
name more appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After
this reflection, I walked on to where I thought the wag-
ons would come which started out at half past one. After
traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek
about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, an-
other about five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still
another about six rods wide on an average. These all
appear to be the sources of heavy streams of water at
some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last
one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to
turn off to the north in order to cross the bluffs which
struck the river a little farther. But a little to the west
was a very high ridge and I concluded to walk on to it.
Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high and
rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide
and from north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt
names this Cobble Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in
size of from fifty pounds in weight to the smallest pebble.
At the north foot of this hill is what might be named a
clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of sandy
clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance
farther, we crossed another dry creek about eight rods
wide and then ascended the bluffs. The ascent is pretty
steep for nearly half a mile, but hard and not difficult to
travel. The wagon had to wind about some to keep
around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three
times before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of
the river. We crossed another dry creek pretty steep on
each side and then found ourselves once more on the
prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter miles
from 'the east to the west foot following our trail. The
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 173
wind has blown from the southeast all day until lately,
when a dead calm has succeeded. In the west a heavy
thunder cloud has been gathering for two hours and vivid
streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At twenty
minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the north-
west, the blackest part of the cloud then lying in that di-
rection. We had a few drops of rain only. Then it
seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery after this was
indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy
clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated
in the east. The romantic bluffs on the north and the
lightning playing in the southeast all tended to fill my
mind with pleasant reflections, on the goodness and
majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe,
and the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we
formed our encampment in a circle within a quarter of
a mile of the banks of the river, having traveled this
afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through the
day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter
Quarters 440 miles in five weeks and three and a half
days. The feed on the lower bench of the prairie is tol-
erably good, while the higher land is quite bare. We
have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some
very large. All are turned into solid, hard, stone, which
proves that the atmosphere is pure and the country would
doubtless be healthy, but is not adapted for farming pur-
poses on account of the poor sandy soil and no timber
at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety of
shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many
of which have a very pleasant smell and in some places
the air appears impregnated with the rich odors arising
174 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
from them. Among the rest are numerous beds of the
southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty peb-
bles of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About
6:30 I observed a group of brethren standing together
inside the camp. I went up and saw a young eagle
which had been taken out of its nest on one of these
high bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney.
Although it is very young and its feathers have scarcely
commenced growing, it measures from the tips of its
wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is
nearly the size of my fist and looks very ferocious.
After this I went with John Pack and Horace Whitney
to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large wolf about
as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a
quarter of a mile from camp. After traveling about a
mile we arrived at the foot of a stupendous mass of
rocks almost perpendicular, with only one place where
it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty
and by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We
had to walk over a little space which was only about
three feet wide and on the east side a perpendicular fall
of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this peak
looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we
found it large enough to seat comfortably about twenty
persons. The top is composed of large rocks and very
uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance under
foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the sur-
rounding scenery which looks more like the ruins of an
ancient city with its castles, towers, fortifications, etc.,
on all sides, and a dry stream coming through the center.
We proceeded to the next high rock and found it very
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 175
difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very
pleasant. We discovered several other varieties of shrub-
bery, all smelling pleasant and strong. We saw that a
horse has sometime stood on the top, but how he got
there, we could not easily determine. At the east end
there is a cedar tree flat on the top and on the undei-
side almost looks like an umbrella. We made a calcula-
tion of the height of this bluff as well as we could and
concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the
river. The surrounding country can be seen for many
miles from its summit, ami Chimney Rock shows very
plainly. We descended at the east end and arrived in
camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some
of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these
bluffs, and one went into it a little distance, but it being
very dark and having no torch, he did not venture far.
Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the top of one of the
bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a foot
deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. tie
supposed it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also
discovered a spring of pure cold water of a very good
taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs "Bluff Ruins"
from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles,
cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular
rock much resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The
whole of the scenery around is one of romantic beauty
which cannot be described with either pen or tongue
Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to be-
long to the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept
within two hundred yards of the wagons all day, and
has followed us to this place. There have been manv
176 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact,
this place seems to abound with them. The evening was
spent very joyfully by most of the brethren, it being very
pleasant and moonlight. A number danced till the bugle
sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock trial was
also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Daven-
pot for blockading the highway and turning ladies out
of their course. Jackson Redding acted as the presid-
ing judge. Elder Whipple attorney for defendant and
Luke 'Johnson attorney for the people. We have many
such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and
tend among other things to pass away the time cheer-
fully during leisure moments. It was remarked this
evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled
to the credit of being more even tempered than any of
the others, and that is Father Chamberlain. He is in-
variably cross and quarrelsome, but the brethren all take
it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for
the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a
number of small islands, but no timber on any of them.
SUNDAY, 23RD. The morning very fine and pleas-
ant. Brother Egan commenced washing very early on
the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash
my dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After
breakfast President Young, Elders Kimball, Richards,
Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and Lyman walked
out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven.
A while ago I went out a little distance to view an
adder which George Billings had discovered. It was a
dark brown color about 18 inches long and three quarters
of an inch thick through the body. They are represented
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 177
as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel
Fairbanks came into camp having been bitten in the leg
by a rattlesnake. He went on the bluffs with Aaron
Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off from the
bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over
him farther. He said that in two minutes after he was
bitten his tongue began to prick and feel numb. When
he got to camp his tongue and hands pricked and felt
numb as a person feels their feet sometimes when they
are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied
some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound
tobacco on his leg which was considerably swollen. We
laid hands on him and Luke Johnson administered a
dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken a strong
drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted
him powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his
stomach and dimness in his eyes. He appears to be in
much pain. While the brethren of the quorum of the
twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they
found the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Wood-
ruff wrote the names of all the quorum of the twelve
present and set it upon the southwest corner of the bluff.
John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt
took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235
feet above the surface of the river. He did not cal-
culate the height above the sea, owing to the state of
the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from the
same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called to-
gether for meeting, and after singing and praying we
were addressed by Elder Snow, followed by President
Young. The latter said there were many items of doc-
is
178 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
trine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren,
but as to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is
no time or place for them, they belong to the house of
God and when we get located we shall have an opportun-
ity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself satis-
fied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is
pleased to see so much union and disposition to obey
council among the brethren and hoped and prayed that
it may continue and increase. He wants the brethren
to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge
God in all things but never take his name in vain nor
use profane language. If all the knowledge in this camp
were put together and brother Joseph were here in our
midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it
around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge
of angels, and above that, the knowledge of the Lord.
There is much for us to learn and a faithful man who
desires eternal glory will seek after knowledge all the
time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are always
bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small
things because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and
keep doing so and by retaining many small things he
will thus gain a large pile, etc. He expressed his feel-
ings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed them
to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now
sowing seed, the fruit of which will be plucked in after
days whether good or bad. G. A. Smith made a few
remarks, also several others of the brethren. The presi-
dent then stated that on Sunday next he wants the breth-
ren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven
o'clock and the sacrament administered, and he wants
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 179
the brethren to attend, all that can, and not ramble off
and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath as a day
of rest. He .enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S.
Roundy, J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the
proper necessities were prepared for the sacrament. The
meeting was then dismissed. A while after meeting I
walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from the camp.
We sat down and I read to him, my journal of the last
four days with which he seemed well pleased. We then
knelt down together and poured out our souls to God
for ourselves, the camp and our dear families in Winter
Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind
rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having
been gathering from the west all the afternoon. A sud-
den gust struck Elder Kimball's hat and carried it off.
After we got through, his hat was nowhere in sight, but
following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at
a distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly.
We both ran and chased it about three quarters of a
mile and caught it a little from the river. While we were
out together I remarked that the buffalo gnat had bitten
us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very
badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and
although they are extremely small, they punish a person
very much with an itching, aching pain like a mosquitoe
bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a perfect gale
and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very
heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail,
which however, did not continue very long but the wind
continued nearly all night. The lightning and thunder
continued some time but not very severe. We saw the
180 WILLIAM CLAYTON.'S JOURNAL.
necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and
the covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest
seemed in danger of being torn to pieces and the wagons
blown over. When the wind commenced blowing so
strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went
to bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems consider-
ably better. This evening President Young, Kimball and
Benson laid hands on him and he seemed much better
afterwards.
MONDAY, 24TH. The morning very cold indeed,
strong wind from northwest. At 8 :25 we continued our
journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then
halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about
two miles from us and the river one mile. About noon
the weather began to moderate and grow warmer. While
we were resting two Indians came to camp, their ob-
ject evidently being to get the dog which has followed
us to this place. They tarried a little while and then
went away taking the dog with them. At 3 :00 p. m, we
again proceeded and traveled till 6:00 p. m., distance six
and a half miles, during the day 16 1/2. Several of the
horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but
the oxen are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey
well and in fact, all the teams considering the scarcity of
grass. About 5 :30 we discovered a party of Indians on
the opposite side the river moving west. When we
formed our encampment they crossed over the river.
Some of the brethren went to meet them carrying a white
flag with them. When the Indians saw the flag, some
of them began to sing, and their chief held up a U. S.
flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to
obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 181
camp and were conducted around by Colonels Mark-
ham and Rockwood. They were shown a six and fifteen
shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through
the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please
them much. They are all well dressed and very noble
looking, some having good clean blankets, others nice
robes artfully ornamented with beads and paintings. All
had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some
had nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All ap-
peared to be well armed with muskets. Their moccasins
were indeed clean and beautiful. One had a pair of moc-
casins of a clear white, ornamented with beads, etc.
They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neat-
ness, they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They
are thirty-five in number, about half squaws and chil-
dren. They are Sioux and have two recommends certi-
fying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren contri-
buted something to eat which was sent to them. Our
course today has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The
evening fine but cold enough to freeze clothing stiff
when laid on the grass to dry. Elder Kimball has
been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon.
Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very
large rock very much resembling- a castle of four stories
high, but in a state of ruin. A little to the east a rock
stands which looks like a fragment of a very thick wall.
A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full
view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic.
After the Indians had viewed the camp, they returned to
their horses and the rest of the party who have camped
on the banks of the river about a quarter of a mile west
182 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon
after came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw
who signified a wish to abide with our camp tonight. The
brethren fixed up a tent for them to sleep under; Porter
Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were fur-
nished with some victuals. The old chief amused him-
self very much by looking at the moon through a tele-
scope for as much as twenty minutes. Brother Fair-
banks is much better this evening. Last night Luke
Johnson discovered a very large petrified bone in the
neighborhood of the bluffs as much as two feet wide, but
he could not ascertain the length of it. After laboring
sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off two
pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white
and hard. It is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing
in Elder Kimball's journal since dark, and have but little
chance to write as much as I want in my own and his
both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a
journal of this expedition which will be interesting to
my children in after days, and perhaps to many of the
Saints. The evening is very fine but cool and I retire
to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear family."
TUESDAY, 25xn. The morning fine and very pleas-
ant. Most of the Indians, men, women and children
came early to camp on their ponies and marched around
mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little
barters were made with them for moccasins, skins, etc.
John S. Higbee traded ponies with one of them. They
have some good ponies and some inferior ones, but both
male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They
look cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 183
8:20 we proceeded onward. After we started, the In-
dians left us and went over the river. One mile from
where we started, we began to ascend a low range of
bluffs to avoid a large, high sa;ndy ridge which projects
to the river. We traveled three quarters of a mile and
descended again to the level prairie. At 9 :40 we halted
to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed being good
and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles,
mostly northwest around a bend of the river. The sun
is very hot, the roads sandy and hard teaming. The
river is probably three quarters of a mile wide here and
on this side there are many small islands. At 11 :15 con-
tinued our journey and traveled till half past one, dis-
tance four and three quarters miles over a very soft,
wet, level prairie. We then halted to feed and rest our
teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly all day.
We have seen no game for several days except a few
antelope and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this
region and in fact there are little signs of many having
been here. The feed is poor, mostly last year's growth
and very short. One of the hunters killed an antelope,
which was brought to camp and divided to the captains
of tens. At 3 :00 p. m. we started again and traveled
till a quarter to six, distance four and three quarters
miles, and during the day twelve miles. For three miles
bf the first of this afternoon we had a good road, but
the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds
of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We
have camped on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor
where it was drier, it was decided to stay for the bene-
fit of the teams. Our course has been about northwest.
184 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock
shows very plain and appears not more than two miles
distance but is no doubt five miles distance or over. An-
other antelope has been killed and brought in by the
hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation to
ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was
very pleasant and the brethren passed away their time
till after nine o'clock dancing. Porter Rockwell shot
the two antelope spoken of above. He also shot two
wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41 41'
46".
WEDNESDAY, 26xH. The morning very fine and
pleasant. I have spent the morning working on Dr.
Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our jour-
ney. Elder Pratt taking observations to tell the distance
our road lies from Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning
Stephen Markham traded a mule which was foundered
and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony.
They put him in the harness a little towards evening and
again this morning. When crossing a very soft place
the whipple tree unhitched and struck against his heels.
He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice
through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses
and oxen both, to spring from the road and run some
distance before the men could stop them. After running
nearly a mile some of the brethren caught the pony
brought him back and put him to the wagon again with-
out any accident, except a little injury to the harness.
After traveling four and five-eights miles, we arrived at
a point directly north of Chimney Rock which we as-
certained by the compass, having traveled since it was
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 185
first discovered 41 1/2 miles. We proceeded till twelve
o'clock and halted to feed-, having traveled seven and a
quarter miles, a northwest course, the road very straight
and hard excepting a few spots where the water stands
caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to
get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely
any grass on it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope
and John Brown one which were brought into camp and
are being divided amongst the companies as usual. El-
der Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from
its base to its summit and the distance from our road at
the nearest point three miles. The latitude at noon halt
41 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our journey making our
road nearer the river than this morning. The road some-
what crooked but good traveling. After traveling five
miles, turned directly south to avoid a bad slough and
went a quarter of a mile and then formed our encamp-
ment at five o'clock on the banks of the river. The last
quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel
which exclusive of that is 12 1/4 miles, course north of
northwest. The feed here is good and sufficient to fill
our teams well. Joseph Hancock killed an antelope which
was brought into camp and distributed. Soon after we
camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presi-
dents Young and Kimbdll to read to them some of the
minutes of the old council. We were joined by Dr. Rich-
ards and tarried till seven o'clock, at which time a heavy
black cloud was fast approaching from the west and was
soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which
lasted only a short time. The evening afterwards warm
and pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray
186 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
has been trying to rear the young eagle caught on Sat-
urday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon
and a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back,
one of the wheels ran over its head and killed it. I
wrote in Heber's journal till half past ten and then went
to rest.
THURSDAY, 2?TH. The morning very fine. We have
seen a number of romantic spots on our journey, but 1
consider our view this morning more sublime than any
other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached
bluffs of various shapes and sizes. To the southwest.
Scott's Bluffs look majestic and sublime. The prairie
over which our route lies is very level and green as far
as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about
three miles -distant. The scenery is truly delightful be-
yond imagination. I have finished making Dr. Richards'
map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt has measured the
width of the river at this place by the sextant and found
it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we
continued our journey and traveled near the banks of the
river till 11 :45, being eight miles. The route very good,
hard and good traveling, although a little crooked. Porter
Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa Lyman on?,
which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There
are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and
a nice breeze from northeast. At two o'clock we con-
tinued our journey over the same kind of dry level prai-
rie, keeping not far distant from the banks of the river
and making a straight road. At the distance of four and
an eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost
peak of Scott's Bluffs being 19 3/4 miles from the meri-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 187
dian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs are very high,
steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient
ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south
extremity, but not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and
formed our encampment in a circle near the banks of the
river which from this place seems to bend for some dis-
tance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five
and three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and
three quarters, mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and
Woodruff pointed out the road this forenoon. Afternoon
Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon while I
read some of his journal to him. The evening is very
cold, wind northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and
the camp generally well. Another antelope was brought
in by the hunters. The latitude of the northernmost peak
of Scott's Bluffs 41 50' 52".
FRIDAY, 28xH. The morning cool, damp, cloudy and
some rain. Wind northeast. At about eight o'clock
the brethren were called together and the question asked :
shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All
agreed to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in
Heber's journal and wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. El-
der Kimball came to the next wagon where some of the
boys were playing cards. He told them his views and
disapprobation of their spending time gaming and danc-
ing and mock trying, etc., and especially the profane lan-
guage frequently uttered by some. He reasoned with
them on the subject and showed them that it would lead
from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences
would become serious. He exhorted them to be more
sober and wise. It growing fair, we started out at eleven
188 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
o'clock, our first four* miles being north of northwest in
consequence 'of a'bfend in the river. We traveled beside a
creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises about
four miles northwest of where we camped last night and
runs in a crooked direction till it empties into the river
about a mile west of the camp. It rises from springs as
was proved by Horace Whitney who traced it to its
source where there is a spring rising out of a circular
kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek
is about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is grav-
elly. Near where it empties into the river, they discov-
ered a number of large spotted trout, suckers and dais of
a good size. The water tasted very good and cold. At
the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at
the foot of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on
teams. We soon turned from the bluffs on a level bar-
ren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine miles
descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it
wet and soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed
our encampment near the river, having traveled eleven
and a half miles, the last seven a little south of west.
The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably
plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands
today but none on the north bank. Vast quantities of
southern wood and prickley pear grow on these sandy
prairies where there is no grass. The evening cloudy an-1
dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown
and Porter Rockwell were out hunting about five miles
north of here, the former saw five or six Indians about
a quarter of a mile from him. They also saw many new
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 189
footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting
party near.
SATURDAY, 29rn. The morning cold, wet and
cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not travel
unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morn-
ing writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very
unwell having taken cold yesterday and been sick all
night. About ten o'clock, the weather looked a little
better and at half past ten the bugle sounded as a signal
for the teams to be got together. After the teams were
harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat
in the circle. President Young taking his station in the
boat, ordered each captain of ten to lead out his re-
spective company and get all his men together. He
then called on the clerk to call over the names of the
camp to see if all were present. Joseph Hancock and
Andrew Gibbons were reported to be absent hunting.
Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were
confined to their wagons but answered to their names,
the remainder all present. President Young then ad-
dressed the meeting in substance as follows:
"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much
like preaching to the brethren on this mission. This
morning I feel like preaching a little, and shall take for
my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this com-
pany with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt
against it.' This is the text I feel like preaching on this
morning, consequently I am in no hurry. In the first
place, before we left Winter Quarters, it was told to the
brethren and many knew it by experience, that we had to
leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because
we believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in
190 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
these last days. The rise of the persecutions against the
Church was in consequence of the doctrines of eternal
truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by experience.
Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some
their children through persecution, and yet we have not
been disposed to forsake the truth and turn and mingle
with the gentiles, except a few who have turned aside
and gone away from us, and we have learned in a meas-
ure, the difference between a professor of religion and a
possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it
was told to the brethren that we were going to look out a
home for the Saints where they would be free from per-
secution by the gentiles, where we could dwell in peace
and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood, where
we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would
begin to flock to our standard. I have said many things
to the brethren about the strictness of their walk and con-
duct when we left the gentiles, and told them that we
would have to walk upright or the law would be put in
force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through
fear, but no good upright, honest man will fear. The
Gospel does not bind a good man down and deprive him
of his rights and privileges. It does not prevent him
from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob
him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does
not diminish his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge
his kingdom as well as to enlarge his heart. It is cal-
culated to give him privileges and power, and honor, and
exaltation and everything which his heart can desire in
righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he
gets exalted into the eternal world he can still turn
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 191
around and say it hath not entered into the heart of man
to conceive the glory and honor and blessings which God
hath in store for those that love and serve Him. I want
the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles
of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and
not be overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits
of the spirit, but you cannot see the spirit itself with the
natural eye, you behold it not. You can see the result of
yielding to the evil spirit and what it will lead you to,
but you do not see the spirit itself nor its operations, only
by the spirit that's in you. No-body has told me what has
been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the
while. I have been watching its movements, its influ-
ence, its effects, and I know the result if it is not put a
stop to. I want you to understand that inasmuch as we
are beyond the power of the gentiles where the devil has
tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond
their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond
their grasp, and what has the devil now to work upon?
I'pon the spirits of men in this camp, and if you do not
open your hearts so that the Spirit of God can enter your
hearts and teach you the right wiay, I know that you are a
ruined people and will be destroyed and that without
remedy, and unless there is a change and a different
course of conduct, a different spirit to what is now in
this camp, I go no farther. I am in no hurry. Give me
the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give me
the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would
far rather go amongst the savages with six or eight such
men than to trust myself with the whole of this camp
with the spirit they now possess. Here is an opportunity
192 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will
pray and remember his God' without being asked to do it
every day; to know whether he will have confidence
enough to ask of God that he may receive without my
telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of men
who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not re--
received the priesthood, men who had not been through
the ordinances in the temple and who had not had years
of experience, enough to have, learned the influence of
the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil
spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching
over them and telling them all the time, day by day.
But here are the Elders of Israel, men who have had
years of experience, men who have had the priesthood
for years, and have they got faith enough to rise up and
stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit ?
No, they have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I
rise up in the power of God and put it down. I do not
mean to bow down to the spirit that is in this camp, and
which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren, and
which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of
the knife to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop
to. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit which causes
the brethren to quarrel. When I wake up in the morn-
ing, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren jawing
each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose
in the night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and
act the nigger night after night to see what they will do,
and what extremes they would go to, if suffered to go
as far as they would. I do not love to see it. The breth-
ren say they want a little exercise to pass away time
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 193
in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad
enough with a day's journey without, dancing every night,
carry your guns on your shoulders and walk, carry your
wood to camp instead of lounging and lying asleep in
your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are
tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help
your teams over mud holes and bad places instead of
lounging in your wagons and that will give you exercise
enough without dancing. Well, they will play cards,
they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if
they had the privilege and were where they could get
whiskey, they would be drunk half their time, and in one
week they would quarrel, get ito high words and draw
their knives to kill each other. This is what such a
course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes.
Well, then, why don't you try to put it down? I have
played cards once in my life since I became a Mormon to
see what kind of spirit would attend it, and I was so
well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the
dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack
of cards. You never read of gambling, playing cards,
checkers, dominoes, etc., in the scriptures, but you do
read of men praising the Lord in the dance, but who ever
read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any
man had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a
little without wanting to keep it up all the time, but exer-
cise a little and then quit it and think no more of it, it
would do well enough, but you want to keep it up till
midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't
know how to control your senses. Last winter when we
had our seasons of recreation in the council house, I went
14
194 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
forth in the dance frequently, but did my mind run on
it ? No ! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind was
on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or
the end of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and
praise to my Heavenly Father and whatever I engage in,
my mind is on it while engaged in it, but the moment I
am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The
devils wliich inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The
tabernacles are not here, we are out of their power, we
are 'beyond their grasp, we are beyond the reach of their
persecutions, but the devils are here, and the first thing
you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your
hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps
war, as they did with the Lamanites as you read in the
Book of Mormon. Do we suppose that we are going to
look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a place of
peace where ithey can build up the kindgom and bid the
nations welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, cove-
tous, wicked spirit dwelling in our bosoms ? It is vain !
vain! Some' of you are very fond of passing jokes, and
will carry your jokes very far. But will you take a joke?
If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to
your brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifl-
ing conversation and loud laughter do not belong to us.
Suppose the angels were witnessing the hoe down the
other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other
evening, would they not be ashamed of it ? I am ashamed
of it. I have not given a joke to any man on this journey
nor felt like it ; neither have I insulted any man's feelings
but I have hollowed pretty loud and spoken sharply to the
brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at coming
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 195
to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of
Mormon, and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be
sober ; and let me ask you elders that have been through
the ordinances in the temple, what were your covenants
there ? I say you should remember them. When I laugh
I see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am
ashamed of myself. I think meaner and worse of myself
than any man can think of me ; but I delight in God, and
in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him
and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall
be subjected to Him. Now let every man repent of his
weakness, of his follies, of his meanness, and every kind
of wickedness, and stop your swearing and profane lan-
guage, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have
known it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell
you, if you don't stop it you shall be cursed by the Al-
mighty and shall dwindle away and be damned. Such
things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor
God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the
penalty. Most of this camp belong to the Church, nearly
all ; and I would say to you brethren, and to the Elders
of Israel, if you are faithful, you will yet be sent to preach
this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid all wel-
come whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this
kingdom will reign over many who do not belong to the
Church, over thousands who do not believe in the Gospel.
Bye and bye every knee shall bow and every tongue con-
fess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name
of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the
kingdom whether they belong to the Church and obey
the Gospel or not, and I mean that every man in this
196 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by
every knee shall -bow, etc., and you cannot make anything
else out of it. I understand there are several in this
camp who do not belong to the Church. I am the man
who will stand up for them and~ protect them in all their
rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on
the priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge
the name of God and His priesthood, and if they set up
their heads and seek to introduce iniquity into this camp
and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to them, they
shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them
where they will be safe. If they wiant to retreat they can
now have the privilege, and any man who chooses to go
back rather than abide the law of God can now have the
privilege of doing so before we go any farther. Here
are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who
have got to preach the Gospel who have to gather the
nations of the earth, who have to build up the kingdom
so that the nations can come to it, they will stop to dance
as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the negroes
by any means ; they will hoe down all, turn summersets,
dance on their knees, and haw, haw, out loud ; they will
play cards, they will play checkers and dominoes, they
will use profane language, they will swear! Suppose
when you go to preach, the people should ask you what
you did when you went on this mission to seek out a
home for the whole Church, what was your course of
conduct ? Did you dance ? Yes. Did you hoe down all ?
Yes. Did you play cards?- Yes. Did you play checkers?
Yes. Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you
swear? Yes. Did you quarrel with each other and threaten
\
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 197
each other? Why yes. How would you feel? What
would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to
go and hide up? Your mouths would be stopped and
you would want to creep away in disgrace. I am one
of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn cove-
nants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put
away their iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him
and acknowledge and honor His name, I want them to
take their wagons and retreat back, for I shall go no
farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent
and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances
than we have had, and worse storms to encounter. I
want the brethren to be ready for meeting tomorrow at
the time appointed, instead of rambling off, and hiding
in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good
for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer
meeting to humble ourselves and turn to the Lord and
he will forgive us."
He then called upon all the High Priests to step
forth in a line in front of the wagon and then the bishops
to step in front of the High Priests, which being done, he
counted them and found their number to be four bishops
and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the sev-
enties to form a line in the rear of the high priests.
On being counted, they were ascertained to number
seventy-eight. Next he called on the elders to form
a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight
in number. | There were also eight of the quo-
rum of the twelve. He then asked the brethren of the
quorum of the twelve if they were willing to covenant,
to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all
198 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God
according to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest
it by holding up their right hand. Every man held up
his hand in token that he covenanted. He then put the
same question to the high priests and bishops ; next to the
seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other
brethren. All covenanted with uplifted hands without a
dissenting voice. He then addressed those who are not
members of the Church and told them 1 they should be
protected in their rights and privileges while they would
conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the
priesthood nor 'blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then
referrred to the conduct of Benjamin Rolfe's two younger
brothers, in joining with the Higbees and John C. Ben-
nett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in
Xauvoo and remarked that there will be no more Ben-
nett scrapes suffered here. He spoke highly of Benjamin
Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of the Church
and also referred to the esteem in which his father and
mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very
tenderly blessed the brethren and prayed that God would
enable them to fulfill their covenants and then withdrew
to give opportunity for others to speak if they felt like
it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with all
that President Young had said. He receives it as the
word of the Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord
to this camp if they will receive it. He has been watch-
ing the motion of things and the conduct of the brethren
for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He
has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him
shudder when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 199
to the lowest, dirtiest things imaginable, the tail end of
everything, but what has passed this morning will make it
an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they will repent
and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can
rest satisfied until his family is liberated from the gen-
tiles and their company and established in a land where
they can plant and reap the fruits of their labors, but he
has never had the privilege of eating the fruits of his
labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is done
he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If
we will serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon
Him, and be faithful, we shall not one of us be left under
the sod, but shall be permitted to return and meet our
families in peace and enjoy their society again; but if this
camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the
judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the breth-
ren will take heed to what President Young has said and
let it sink deep in their hearts.
Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been
said. "Much good advice has been given to teach us how
we may spend our time profitably by prayer, and medita-
tion, etc." But there is another idea which he wants to
add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of
knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if
the brethren would devote all their leisure time to seek-
ing after knowledge, they would never need to say they
had nothing with which to pass aw*ay their time. If we
could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge
and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life,
"here would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us
yet to learn. He knows it is difficult to bring our minds
200 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
to diligent and constant studies, in pursuit of knowledge
all at once, but by steady practice and perseverance we
shall become habituated to it, and it will become a pleas-
ure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, be-
sides prayer, and obedience, to seek after knowledge con-
tinually. And it will help us to overcome our follies
and nonsense; we shall haye no time for it.
Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when
the camp went up to Missouri to redeem' Zion, when
Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel and told the
brethren that the decree had passed and could not be re-
voked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and
we should die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly
warned the brethren of their evil conduct and what it
would lead to, but they still continued in their course.
Tt was not long 'before the destroying angel did visit the
camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph
had said. We buried eighteen in a short time and a more
sorrowful time I never saw. There are nine here who
were in that camp and they all recollect the circumstance
well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while
the President was speaking, that if he was one who had
played checkers or cards, he would take every pack of
cards and every checker board and burn them up so that
they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.
Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done
wrong in many things. He had always indulged himself,
before he came into the Church, with everything he de-
sired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey,
he knows his mind has become darkened since he left
Winter Quarters. He hopes the brethren will forgive
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 201
him and he will pray to be forgiven and try to do better.
While he was speaking he was very much affected in-
deed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt
much affected and all seemed to realize for the first time,
the excess to which they had yielded and the awful con-
sequence of such things if persisted in. Many were in
tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the
boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said
in reply, that he knew the brethren would forgive him,
and the Lord will forgive us all if we turn to Him with
all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting was then
dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being
half past one o'clock we again pursued our journey in
peace, all reflecting on what has passed today, and many
expressing their gratitude for what has transpired. It
seemed as though we were just commencing on this im-
portant mission, and all realizing the responsibility rest-
ing upon us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that
the journey may be an everlasting blessing to us, instead
of an everlasting disgrace. No loud laughter was heard,
no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no hard
speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though
the cloud had burst and we had emerged into a new ele-
ment, a new atmsophere, and a new society. We traveled
six and three quarters miles about a north of northwest
course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs
which extend within about ten rods of the river, the lat-
ter forming a large bend northward at this point. At the
foot of the bluffs the road was sandy and very heavy on
our teams. Like all other sandy places, it was perfectly
barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there. After
202 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
passing over the sand we changed our course to a little
north of west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far.
The river bends again to the south. We then found the
ground hard and good to travel over, but perfectly bare
of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it com-
menced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and
thunder and strong northeast wind. It also changed con-
siderably cooler again. At five thirty o'clock we formed
our encampment on the edge of the higher bench of
prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but
here there is none at all. We have passed a small grove
of fair sized trees, all green, growing on the islands
in the river which, are tolerably many near here, but there
is no timber yet on this side of the river. The brethren
pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent
the evening writing in this journal till half past twelve
o'clock, but felt quite unwell. The distance we have trav-
eled today is eight and a half miles, during the week
seventy- four and a half, making us Sl4 r / 2 miles from
Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about
200 yards to the south from which the camp obtains what
they want.
SUNDAY, 30xH. The morning fair and somewhat
more pleasant, although there is yet appearance for more
rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and also this
morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of
the brethren retired a little south of the camp and had
a prayer meeting, and as many as chose to, expressed
their feelings. At a little before twelve they met again
in the same spot to partake of the sacrament. Soon af-
terwards all the members of the council of the K. of G.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 203
in the camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto
the bluffs and selecting a small, circular, level spot sur-
rounded by bluffs and out of sight, we clothed ourselves
in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to God for
ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren
in the army, our families and all the Saints, President
Young being mouth. We all felt well and glad for this
privilege. The members of the above council are Brig-
ham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards, Orson
Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Ly-
man, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack,
Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy, Albert P. Rock-
wood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Por-
ter Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with
them, stood guard at a little distance from us to prevent
interruption. When we started for the bluffs, there was
a heavy black thunder cloud rising from the southwest,
and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but the
brethren believed it would not rain till we got through
and if it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be
disappointed of the privilege. It kept off remarkably till
we got through and got our clothing on, but soon after
it began to rain and after we got to camp it rained con-
siderbly, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed the
brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started
as today. There is no jesting nor laughing, nor non-
sense. All appear to be sober and feel to remember their
covenant which makes things look far more pleasant than
they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon
in Elder KimbaH's wagon with Elder Kimball, President
Young, Lorenzo and Phineas Young. Read the minutes
204 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
of President Young's discourse of yesterday. About five
o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and others
walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to
go with them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could
scarcely walk, and after drinking a cup of tea prepared
by Ellen Sanders I went to my wagon and retired to bed
early. The evening more pleasant with a light shower
occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and
others saw the Black Hills in the distance from a high
bluff.
MONDAY, 31 ST. The morning fine but cool. I feel
quite unwell yet and have been sick all night. At a quar-
ter past eight we proceeded onward, found good level
traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a
wagon trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Lar-
amie. At four* miles, passed some high sandy bluffs.
Traveled till after twelve and then turned off a little to
the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock halted for
noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short
green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled
over this morning is naked and barren, course west of
northwest, distance nine and a half miles. A high wind
from northwest. Latitude 42 04' 30". Started again at
3:00 p. m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.
m. formed our encampment on the east bank of a shoal
stream about ten feet wide, having traveled this afternoon
seven and a quarter miles, and during the day sixteen
and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little
north of west. About four miles back, passed some tim-
ber on this side of the river which is the first since the
10th inst, being a distance of 215 miles without wood for
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 205
fire, except driftwood, and much of the time nothing but
buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been
sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams.
The country looks perfectly barren ; in some places there
' ; nothing but a few weeds and garlick. Some of the
brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat. The
feed is very poor indeed, 'but a little better than for four
miles back. John S. Higbee has killed a deer and soms
of the brethren wounded two others. This deer which
Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed species, hav-
ing a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the firsi
one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped,
President Young and Kimball went to the bluffs and
again saw the Black Hills in the distance. They bowed
before the Lord and offered up their prayers together.
The month of May has passed over and we have
been permitted to proceed so far on our journey, being
531 1/4 miles from our families in Winter Quarters, with
the camp generally enjoying good health and good spirits,
and although some things have passed which have
merited chastisement, we 'have the privilege at the clos-
ing of the month of seeing a better feeling, a more noble
spirit, and a more general desire to do right than we
have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and give
God thanks for his continued mercies to me and* my
brethren and may His spirit fill our hearts and may His
angels administer comfort, health, peace and prosperity
to all our families and all the Saints henceforth and for-
ever. Amen.
TUESDAY, JUNE IST. The morning very fine, warm
and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a summer's morn-
206 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
ing, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of
peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every
breast. My mind revolves back upon by-gone days and
then to. the present, and I truly feel thankful to my God
for His mercies to me and for the privilege I now daily
enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of
peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt
than described, but the mild, still, scenery of this morn-
ing puts me in mind of it. At nine o'clock we pursued
our journey, the stream we passed over is called by
Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me
have his horse to ride. I went in company with George
A. Smith who was on foot carrying his gun in fulfill-
ment of President Young's prophecy at the Pawnee Mis-
sion station. The wagons went on till half past eleven
and then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of
them. The distance they traveled was four and a half
miles. At half past one, started out again and traveled
till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort Laramie about
four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and Presi-
dent Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff
and I were looking out for feed and we started on, Presi
dent Young having stopped the wagons, and went to the
ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to
form 1 our encampment here on the banks of the river.
Several men soon came down from the fort which is about
two miles from here and made themselves known as a
part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They have
been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet
\vith brethren in this wild region of country and also
because we should have some news from the brethren in
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 207
the army. Luke Johnson being up here with the boat and
several others coming up, they got the boat into the rive/
to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson,
John Brown, Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell
started over and about the same time, Presidents Young
and Kimball started back to bring the camp up. When
the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met sev-
eral whom he knew and soon returned bringing Brother
Crow and his son-in-law over to this side. The brethren
seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow reports deaths
in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and
\Voolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They
2'SO state that Soloman Tindall was on the point of
death. The other portion of the battalion they had not
heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to receive
their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date,
and will probably be here in about two weeks. They
also recorded that three traders from the mountains ar-
rived, here six days ago, having come from Sweet Water
in six days and nights. They traveled day and night with
horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as
there is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died
already, etc. The snow was two feet deep at Sweet
Water when they left, so that we are evidently plenty
soon enough for feed. At 5 :45 the wagons arrived and
formed encampment on the banks of the river in the
form of a V, having traveled this afternoon, seven and
a half miles and during the day, twelve, making a total
from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 543 1/4 miles and
we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day.
but we have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We
208 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
have arrived so far on our journey without accident ex-
cept the loss of two horses by Indians and two killed. We
have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in
better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we
see daily that the Lord blesses us and directs the move-
ments of this camp as seemeth Him good and as is for
our good and prosperity. The road today has been mostly
sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any
place. The country begins to have a more hilly and moun
tainous appearance. Some of the Black Hills show very
plain from here. The timber is mostly ash and cotton-
wood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some
cedar on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the
middle of the camp is an Indian babe or papoose. It
cannot be said to be buried, but deposited, being first
wrapped with a skin and then tied between two of the
highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they
bury their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree be-
low, I suppose to prevent the wolves from getting up.
WEDNESDAY, 2ND. The morning pleasant. About
nine o'clock started over the river in company with the
Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn some-
thing in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt meas-
ured the distance across the river at this spot and found
it to be 108 yards. The water is deep in the channel and
the current runs about four miles an hour. After cross-
ing we went up to the remains of an old fort called Fort
Platte which is near the banks of the river, the out-
side walls still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having
been burned up. The walls are built of adobes or Span-
ish brick, being large pieces of tempered clay dried in
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 209
the sun and apparently laid one on another without mortar
or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144
feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There
is a large door fronting to the south which has led to
the dwellings which have been fourteen in number, built
in the form of a parallelogram, leaving a large space in
the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not
quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is an-
other large door which opens upon a large open space
98% feet by 47 feet where it is supposed they used to
keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is a tower
projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each
way, or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port
holes for cannon. At the northeast corner has been an-
other projection extending eastward 29y 2 feet and is
19 1/2 feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30
inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape
line and then proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles
farther west. This latter fort was first built of wood
about thirteen years since, and named Fort William, but
being destroyed was afterwards built seven years ago
with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of
the Laramie fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one
yards wide, a very swift current, but not deep. We tar-
ried a little while with the Mississippi brethren who have
camped close by the fort and then went inside. We were
politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be
the principal officer. He conducted us up a flight of
stairs into a comfortable room and being furnished with
seats, we rested ourselves. President Young and others
entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him
15
210 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
we learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther
on the north side the Platte before we come to bluffs
which cannot be crossed with loaded wagons. The road
is better on this side than the one we have traveled, it
being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in
little patches near the river. They send their furs to
Fort Pierre on the Missoui river a distance of 400 miles
by land and receive all their stores and provisions back
by the same teams, except their meat which they kill,
there being buffalo within two days' drive. They have
tried making a garden and planting corn which did well
enough the first year, but afterwards they could raise noth
ing for want of rain. They have had no rain for two years
until a few days ago. They have got a flat boat which
will carry two wagons easily which we can have for
fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c
a wagon. From the door of this room one can see the
same black hill seen on Sunday evening and which is
Laramie Peak. We could see the snow lying on it very
plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills in
the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills.
We went across the square to the trading house which lies
on the north side of the western entrance. The trader
opened his store and President Young entered into con-
versation with him. They trade solely with the Sioux.
The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few
weeks ago a party came down and stole twenty-five
horses, all that they had at the fort, although they were
within 300 yards of the fort at the time and a guard
around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land.
A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 211
a pound of tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of
whiskey $32.00. They have no sugar, coffee or spices as
their spring stores have not yet arrived. They have lately
sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes in
each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days,
etc. The blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the
western entrance. There are dwellings inside the fort be-
side that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south end is divided
off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls
at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux
Indians. Elder Pratt measured the river and found it
forty-one yards. He also took the latitude which was
42 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that several of the
brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant
hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found
it even so. It appears that the ants gather all the small
pebbles they can carry and build them over their hills to
prevent the strong winds from blowing them away, and
amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been
lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked
up quite a number. Brother Bullock and I took the di-
mensions of the fort which will be given in another place.
We then got on board the boat and had a pleasant ride
about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth,
the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren
mostly got on shore and towed the boat up to camp.
After dinner I went over again in the cutter which was
going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork. They
caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc.
About six o'clock we returned to camp. , The Twelve
have decided that Amasa Lyman shall go with Brothers
212 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo. They start to-
morrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104 11' 53". I
have seen three birds here which very much resemble
the English magpie in size, shape and color, in fact I
know of no difference between the (two. We passed a
number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite
thick with young, green currants. On the morning of the
4th of June, I pu.t up a guide board on the north side of
the river at the ferry with the following inscription on
it, viz. Winter Quarters 543 1/4 miles, junction of the
forks 227 1/2 miles. Ash Hollow 142 1/4 miles, Chimney
Rock 70 1/4 miles, Scott's Bluffs 50 1/2 miles. Wm.
Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took the altitude of
Fort Laramie and found it to be 4090 feet above the level
of the sea. Fremont makes 4470, differing 380 feet.
THURSDAY, 3RD. The morning cold with strong
southeast wind. The first division commenced ferrying
over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon
over every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I
went over and wrote a letter for Elder Kim-
ball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to u.
high bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not
being able to see far from it, I went to another over a
mile farther northwest. Although this last was very
high I could see nothing but a succession of high ranges
of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space
through which the river winds its course. Seeing some
heavy thunder clouds rising very rapidly from the north-
west I returned to camp and arrived just before the rain
commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John
H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 213
horses and mules for Pueblo. President Young, Kim-
ball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them to the Lara-
mie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedi-
cated them to God and blessed them. The four then
forded the river and went on their journey, the others
returned to camp. At half past 1 :00 p. m. it commenced
raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very
loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p. m. During the
storm, the horses were mostly secured in the old fort.
The ferrying ceased till it was fair again, and about five
o'clock the first division were all over. The boat was
then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee,
captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven min-
utes and one in ten minutes and one in ten minutes and
twenty seconds. The quickest trip made by the first di-
vision was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock it com-
menced raining again from the southeast and rained
heavily, consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving
three companies of about fifteen wagons on the other
side. All the wagons would have been taken over today
if it had not been stormy.
There is a report come in that there are 2,000
wagons on the road to Oregon, but a little distance be-
hind, but we are satisfied the report is exaggerated. There
are eighteen wagons camlped about three miles below and
one of the men who has come to the fort says that they
have counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four
horses by the Indians.
FRIDAY, 4xH. Morning very fine. Laramie peak
shows very plain. The brethren commenced -ferrying a 4 :
4 :40 a. m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon was over.
214 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and
picked up some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be
isinglass. The bluff is very high and almost perpendicu-
lar and it is dangerous to get to the crystals.
At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Rich-
ards, A. P. Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort
Laramie and returned soon after eleven o'clock. They
have learned very favorable reports about Bear River
Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light
winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially
spotted trout, in the streams. About half past eleven
o'clock Brother Crow's company came down and joined
in with the second division and at twelve we started on
our journey again, following the Oregon road. We trav-
eled three miles and at 20 minutes past 1 :00, halted near
some good grass to let our teams feed. The weather is
very warm though many light clouds are flying. The
bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep, and
look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very
high bluff near by with my glass. I found it very diffi-
cult of ascent. From the top I could see Laramie peak
very plainly and also some hills a long way off to the
northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can be
seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half
past two we continued our journey and found the road
sandy and very uneven. At the distance of seven and
three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we descended a
very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked
and we were some time getting down. We went on half
a mile farther and formed our encampment in a circle
at half past five, having traveled eight and a quarter miles
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 215
today. At half past five we had a shower accompanied
by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give
the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have
joined the camp today to go with this pioneer camp.
They are as follows :
Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow,
Elizabeth Jane Crow, John McHenry Crow, Walter H.
Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane Therlkill, Milton
Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William
Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Alma-
rene Crow, Archibald Little, James Chesney and Lewis
B. Myers, seventeen in number, making the total number
of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four gone
to Pueblo, 161.
Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the coun-
try to the mountains, having traveled it and I am told
that he came as a guide to Brother Crow. They have
five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen,
twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.
Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses
and mules, I will endeavor to state them and give the
number we started with from Fort Laramie. Two hordes
killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the Pawnees
at Gravel creek ; one mule traded for a pony by Brother
Markham ; three horses and one mule gone with the
brethren to Pueblo ; one horse traded by O. P. Rockwell
for three cows and two calves ; one horse traded by John
Pack for three buffalo robes ; one horse traded by T.
Brown for a pony at Laramie ; one pony traded by J. S.
Higbee to the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the
addition made by Brother Crow's company make the
216 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of oxen
100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and
77 wagons and 1 cart.
SATURDAY, STH. The morning pleasant though
somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George Billings
a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He
gave George some very good advice. The horn sounded
early to start but we were detained till half past eight on
account of several oxen being missing. About that time
they were found and we pursued our journey. After trav-
eling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff.
The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very
crooked direction, the surface in some places being hard,
uneven rock, which shakes and jars the wagons very
much. In one place there is a little descent and at the
bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough rock.
Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was
soon righted and no injury done to anything. At the west
foot is a steep, sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff
is a half a mile across. About a half a mile from the
west foot we turned from the river nearly a west course
and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the
river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high
water.
The road after this is considerably crooked and un-
even. About a mile and a quarter farther we descended
again on the same gravelly channel and traveled up it a
piece and at 11 :35 halted for noon opposite a very large
spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is
very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the
river water. We have traveled this morning six and a
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 217
half miles. Just as we halted, two men came down from
the other road on mules to water. They are in company
with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains.
They say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles
to the spring while our road has been 14 3/4 miles.
About a half an hour after we stopped, we had a nicL-
shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a
mile back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42
15' 6". While we were halting, the company above re-
ferred to passed down the bluffs and went ahead of us.
They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1 :40 p.
m. we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we
turned in a narrow pass to the northwest between two
high bluffs and traveled a quarter of a mile farther, then
came to where the road rises a very high, steep bluff.
At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged
ascent for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and
many large cobble stones lay in the road which made it
hard on teams. Appleton Harmon took one of his yoke
of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top and
Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them for-
ward of his and brought up his wagon. Appleton and
Johnson then took the three yoke of oxen and fetched up
Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in the rear of
all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After
arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for
a quarter of a mile farther. We traveled on this high
land five and a quarter miles which was very good travel-
ing although it was considerably rolling. Four and a
half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we
passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any
218 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
other. At five and a quarter miles we descended again
from the bluff, the descent being steep and lengthy but
sandy and good to travel. At the foot of the bluff we
again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and
alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bot-
tom prairie again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment
on the west bank of a small stream and near a very good
spring of cold water, having traveled this afternoon
10 1/2 miles and during the day seventeen.
I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10
and the other at 20 miles from Fort John or Laramie,
but the former name is on the guide boards. The bluffs
we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and
broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them.
We have pretty good feed here and plenty of wood and
good water. The gentile camp is a little east of us. Th?v
say that there were two more companies arrived at Fort
Laramie this morning as they left, and three other com-
panies within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this
morning. They left Independence on the 22nd of April.
They are expecting the mail soon on mules, but they
anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We find
the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About
dark it rained some, accompanied by lightning and
thunder. The camp was notified that tomorrow will be
a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.
SUNDAY, 6xH. Morning cloudy, cool, and like for
rain. At eight o'clock the eleven wagons passed us
again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer meet-
ing a little from the camp, but many kept about their
wagons, some washing and some at other things. At
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 219
eleven o'clock, four Missourians came up mounted, being
part of a company a little behind. Some of these are
recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid
and not fond of our company. They say the old settlers
have all fled from Shariton, Missouri, except two tav-
ern keepers, and I feel to wish that their fears may fol-
low them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just as the
brethren- again assembled for meeting it commenced rain-
ing hard, accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder
which caused the meeting to break up abruptly. During
the storm, the Missouri company passed by us, having
nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons
have five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four.
They have many cows, horses and young cattle with
them. They have a guide with them who lives on the
St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall
find water again about six miles from- here and then no
more for fifteen miles farther. It was then considered
wise to move on this afternoon as we cannot well reach
the second watering place in one day. Soon after twelve
o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks
like for being fine. The wind blows strong from the
west. At half past 2 :00 p. m. the camp began to move
forward. About three quarters of a mile we crossed the
same small stream again, and two miles further arrived
at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hun-
dred yards and then as sudden to the north the same dis-
tance occasioned by the water having washed a deep
gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond this
the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brush-
wood at four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on
220 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
horseback, viz. Elder Ybung, Kimball and Woodruff,
went ahead to look for a camping ground. They returned
at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded
a quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen
wagons close by the timber a little south of the road.
Several of the men came to look at the roadometer, hav-
ing heard from some of the brethren that we had one.
They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and
looked upon it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them
inasmuch as they did not address themselves to me. At
a quarter past 5 :00 p. m. we formed our encampment
in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the
west and close by water, having traveled five miles.
The feed here is very good and plentiful. Wind strong
from the west. Road very crooked, mostly a southwest
and west course. There is plenty of timber all along and
the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in
the company of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith
that he had broken his carriage spring and seemed much
troubled to know what to do to get along. He asked
George if there was any man in our company who could
fix it. George told him there was. After we were
camped, Burr Frost set up his forge and welded the
spring ready to put on before dark.
MONDAY, 7xH. Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave
me some instructions on the use of the sextant and
showed me how to take an observation. He has prom-
ised to teach me to take observations and calculate lati-
tude and longtitude and I intend to improve the oppor-
tunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company passed through
again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 221
our onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide
board 30 1/4 miles to Fort John. I walked about five
miles mostly in company with Elder Pratt conversing on
astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball
then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till
eleven o'clock and then halted to feed on the west bank
of a small stream and spring of clear water, having trav-
eled 7 3/4 miles, mostly a north of northwest course. The
road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted,
another company of Missourians passed us, having thir-
teen wagons and mostly four yoke of oxen to each. Thev
say they are from Andrew County, Missouri. At 12 :35
we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to
ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the
bottom to the top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep.
From the top of this hill we had as pleasant a view of the
surrounding country as I have ever witnessed. Laramie
peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and from
that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very ex-
tensive view of a beautiful country for many miles,
indeed, as far as the eye could survey. From a fair view
of the peak I am satisfied that the Black Hills, of which
this is a prominent part, are so named from the vast
forests of pine trees covering their surface and being of
a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine
grows in the most rocky places and abounds on the high-
est hills, while on the lower bluffs it is sparcely scattered
and in the bottom land, which looks rich and good, there
are none. We have passed many noble trees and there
is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak
is very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still
222 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
lying on its summit and plainly visible with the naked
eye. The ridge over which we passed was a half a mile
over from the southeast to the northwest foot. At that
distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons
in sveral places. The descent was rendered unpleasant
by the many large cobble stones scattered in the road.
Many of the brethren threw them out of the road as we
went along and the road is much improved. They have
also dug down some places and leveled others, which will
make the road much better for other companies. At half
past three we arrived at Horse Creek and formed our en-
campment on the bottom land near the timber or rather
in the midst of a grove of ash, cottomvood, etc., having
traveled five and a quarter miles this afteroon over
crooked road and -during the day, thirteen miles. On
this camp ground is one of the clearest and largest
springs of water I have seen for a long time. Elder Kim-
ball having discovered it, he calls it his spring or Heber's
spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout
in it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than
we have ever met with on this journey. There is abund-
ance of wild mint and sage growing here ; the mint seems
to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on all
this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes
in full bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The
other companies were all within two miles when we ar-
rived here, but mostly going on a few miles farther.
A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which
lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it,
it rained very heavily accompanied by hail and thunder
and lightning. Our hunters have killed a long tailed deer
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 223
and an antelope, which were distributed as usual. Brother
Crew's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling
to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and re-
serve it all to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if
they got more than they could use they would be willing
to let the camp have some. Some of the other compan-
ies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the
balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and
brought it along. After we stopped Brother Crow came
near meeting with an accident wh'le endeavoring to yoke
up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of men to
hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They
got the lariats entangled round their legs and Brother
Crow also, throwing one of the steers down and he fast
with it. They cut the rope and he was liberated with-
out injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers
of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's
meat, etc., I aftrwards learned that the whole family had
to depend on Myers for what they eat, having no bread
stuff, nor anything only what he kills, and the little flour
and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage, he hav-
ig a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out
with Elder Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith.
Brother Smith told me of a good opportunity of sending
a letter to my family by some traders who are expected
down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity.
We had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could
not write.
TUESDAY, STH. Morning fine though cool. At half
past seven we proceeded on our journey crossing the
Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We trav-
224 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
eled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of
high bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found
this ascent the worst we have ever had, being three
quarters of a mile up, and having in that distance seven
very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to
double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the
south which is the first we have seen since about the 21st
of May. Two and a half miles from the east foot of
the last bluff we passed over a small creek, nearly dry,
and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so
bad a rise as the other one. At 11 :45 we halted for noon
near a very small creek with but little water in it, hav-
ing traveled six and three quarters miles over hills and
valleys, the roads being very crooked. About half an
hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with
one of their -wagons. The teams had stopped near the
descent from the bluffs and she stepped on the wagon
tongue to get a drink. The cattle started suddenly, threw
her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the
knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the
toes. She screamed and appeared in great agony. We
thought her leg was broken, but were soon satisfied to
the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think
there was nothing broken. One of the women washed
it with camphor. She was then put into a wagon and we
proceeded on. Latitude 42 29' 58".
At 1 :40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over
a mile and a half we passed another small creek, and
again ascended a high bluff. We found this ridge more
uneven than the other, it being a perfect succession of
hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good and
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 225
hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very
strong from the west and it was so cold that we suf-
fered some. The road over was indeed very crooked but
mostly bending to the north. We could see a long dis-
tance from the top. The country to the north looks
more even but south and southwest very hilly and broken.
At five miles we began to descend gradually, and while
watching the roadometer I discovered it did not work
right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten
minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet
wide and nearly two feet deep with a very swift current.
It is named on Fremont's map as La Bonte river. We
formed our encampment on the west bank in the timber
having traveled this afternoon 8 3/4 miles and during the
day 15 1/2. The evening is very cold and much appear-
ance of rain. Porter Rockwell has killed a deer and
someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been on
the Platte which is about four miles from here follow-
ing the La Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came
into camp who were expected to carry a letter. They
are camped about a mile west of us. I finished my letter
to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to
start in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles
to better feed.
WEDNESDAY, 9rn. Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a. m.
we moved onward, keeping near the La Bonte. At 5 :45
halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having
come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by
Aaron Farr, a number of the brethren also sending let-
ters. While we halted I /got the roadometer fixed again
and also put up a guide board marked "To Fort John 60
16
226 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left
a kind of ferry made otf three buffalo skins hung in a
tree on the Platte and wanted Brother Crow's com-
pany to have it. It was decided to send a company ahead
to overreach the Missouri companies and get the ferry
before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us
to cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about
seventy miles to where we cross the river. Nineteen
wagons were sent ahead and about forty men to attend
to this business. All of Brother Crow's company went,
Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five
wagons from the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd.
They started about half an hour before we started. We
proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after starting had to
cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to get
up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men
passed us with pack horses and mules. They say they
are from Pueblo and going to Green River; they told
others they were from Santa Fe and going to San Fran-
cisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and
crooked as yesterday. At three and three quarters miles
passed over a branch of the La Bonte, a stream about
ten feet wide but not deep. The descent and ascent being-
very steep, most of the teams required assistance to get
up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and
three and a half miles after, our road lay over a kind of
red earth or sand about the color of red precipitate. Most
of the rocks and bluffs are of the same red color, only
a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its bright-
ness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter
miles west of the creek President Young and Kimball
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 227
saw a large toad which had horns on its head and a tail.
It -did not jump like a toad but crawled like a mouse.
This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill.
At 12 :40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since
breakfast. There is little water here for the teams. The
day fine and nice west breeze. The road is very crooked,
hilly, and mostly rocky, many large cobble stones covering
the bluffs, the land barren and little grass. The ground
here is covered with large crickets which are so numer-
ous, to walk without stepping on them is almost impos-
sible. ,
At half past two o'clock we were on the move again.
I put up another guide board a little east of the creek:
"70 miles." We found the road much better this after-
noon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight ex-
cepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the
foot of this bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard,
about three inches long. It had no horns but there was
the appearance of horns just coming on each side of the
head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion
when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide ap-
peared hard and on its sides appeared numerous little
sharp pointed fins or pricks. In other respects it re-
sembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we
formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream
about a rod wide, two feet deep and swift current. It
is named the A La Pierre. We have traveled eight miles
this afternoon and during the day 19 1/4. We have a
good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abound-
ing only in wild sage. There are still some high bluffs
around but the country west appears much more level.
228 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
The evening fine but cool. After traveling six and a
quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and
again three quarters of a mile farther passed the same
creek. Sterling Driggs killed an antelope and a deer.
THURSDAY, K)TH. The morning calm and very
pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the bank of this
stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all
the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage
smells strong of turpentine and a little like camphor.
Started at half past seven and found good roads. At
four and a half miles passed over a small creek about
three feet wide but not much water, being only a few
inches deep. A mile farther passed another creek about
five feet wide, clear water and plentiful. At 11:20 we
halted on the east bank of a stream about thirty feet
wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having
come eight and three quarters miles. We have had sev-
eral long, steep bluffs to ascend and descend and two
places at the creeks where it was hard for the teams to
get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri com-
panies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed
an antelope. There is good feed here and plentiful. Our
road has been crooked mostly winding northward. The
creek on which we camped last night is named A La
Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses,
it runs through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under
the high rocky bluffs. The tunnel is high enough for a
man to stand upright in it, and when standing at the
entrance one can see the light through on the other side.
It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some
strange feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 229
see it. Lewis Barney and another brother each killed an
antelope which were brought into camp during the halt
and divided. The brethren carried the two last about
five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today
from one of the travelers that there is one man living
and making a farm in the Bear River valley. At a quar-
ter to 2:00 we continued our journey. Found the road
somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide
board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and
this afternoon after traveling three and a quarter miles
" "om noon halt I put up another mark 90 miles. Just as
I finished setting it, I looked forward and saw the Platte
river 'again. After descending a half a mile we were on
its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday
last, after having wound around among the hills and
bluffs all the way. When we arrived near the river the
road was more level but sandy and harder on our teams.
There are also some low places where the water stands,
making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we
left the creek at noon. At a quarter to six we passed
another stream about thirty feet wide and two feet deep,
swift current and clear water. Name is Deer Creek.
There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of
good, rich grass for our teams. We formed our en-
campment on the west bank in a grove of large timber.
About a mile back we passed a sick horse supposed to be
left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham
bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had
to leave it. The distance we have traveled this afternoon
was nine miles and during the day 17^ miles, the last
five miles being nearly a west course. Soon after we
230 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream.
We were soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it.
I got a line and went to fishing also and in a few min-
utes caught two which would weigh a half a pound each.
We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing till a
little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which
would average over a half a pound each, and some of
them would weigh over a pound each. The ones I caught
were of a very bright color and very much resembled
the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish
and two suckers. A number of brethren also caught
more and some less. There is abundance of fish in this
stream and we might have caught enough for all the
camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are
gone to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked
out together to the river about a quarter of a mile up
the stream. Some of the brethren discovered a rich
bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be dug,
and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The
land here on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield
good crops of grain and potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney
killed an antelope this afternoon which was distributed as
he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter.
The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.
FRIDAY, HTH. Arose at four o'clock to try and get
some more fish. Morning fine and warm, but caught
only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from
G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of
England. The calm, still morning with the warbling of
many birds, the rich grass, good streams, and plenty of
"timber, make it pleasant. At 7 :35 we again continued
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 231
our journey along the banks of the river which appears
somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a
half miles we passed a deep hollow, the banks on both
sides being very steep. At four and a quarter miles put
up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having
traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours.
At 11 :50 we halted for noon in a grove of timber where
there is plenty of good feed for a large company. The
land since morning has been generally level, but sandy
and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a
mile back we came around a bend to the south caused
by a deep ravine. We had to travel more than a mile to
make a quarter of a mile direct. William Empey, Ed-
mund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an
antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest
in the guide boards and wherever they see a piece of
board sufficiently large, they pick it up and preserve it.
By this means we have now got enough to last 200 miles.
The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and
i quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including
Sunday, or 100 miles in six days. About half an hour
after we halted, Brother Joseph Hancock came in with
the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed about
three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and
left it on the ground. At two o'clock we started again.
After traveling one mile, we crossed a very crooked,
muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over a foot
deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on ac-
count of a crook from one to the other. There is plenty
of feed on its banks, but no wood. Five and three-quar-
ters miles farther another muddy creek about three feet
232 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very
soft in its banks. The balance of the road good, but
considerably crooked. At half past five o'clock we came
to a halt on account of seeing a number of wagons about
a half mile ahead which proved to be two of the Mis-
souri companies camped on the banks of the river and
preparing to cross here. It was also ascertained that
there is no camping place beyond them unless we go
some distance. It was decided to turn off to the river
opposite where we are and camp for the night and the
wagons proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile
from the road and at six o'clock formed our encampment
near the river where there is plenty of timber, having
come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quar-
ters miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive
of the distance we turned off to camp. The feed here is
o-ood and plentiful. The region on the banks of the river
is pretty level, but a few miles to the south there are very
high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in places
on the banks of the river and generally where there is
timber. These Missourian companies inform us that
the regular crossing place is twelve miles farther and
that our brethren are gone on there and also the balance
of the Missourian companies. These men have got a
light flat boat with them and have already got one load
over. They say they have killed three bears between
here and the bluffs. They have also killed a buffalo.
There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren a
number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have
only seen one buffalo since we left Laramie until today,
when several have been seen. One of the Misourians
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 233
brought a snow ball from the hill on the south. He gave
Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder
Kirmball and several others saw it which now convinces
us snow is yet lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker,
Charles Barnum and Brother Owens have each killed an
antelope this afternoon, making eight during the day.
SATURDAY, 12TH. Morning very fine with nice east
breeze. Brother Markham has learned this morning that
Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman
in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let
Joseph and Hyrum and the others get away when pris-
oners in Missouri. The mob suspected him and rode him
on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past
eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a
half miles crossed a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend
but not bad to ascend. One and three-quarters miles
farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet wide on
a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started
ahead of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond
the last mentioned creek we crossed another muddy
stream about five feet wide, and one and a half feet deep.
At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing another
large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters
miles over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is
soft, although the soil is much like clay in appearance.
The road somewhat crooked, and the day fine and warm.
During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon the
brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of
us. Many turned out and it was soon done. James Case
-Mid S. Markham went to the river opposite here to see
; f it could be forded. They waded their horses over and
234 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
found the water about four feet six inches deep in the
channel and the current very swift. Of course it could
not be forded with loads in the wagons, but the loading
would have to be ferried in the boat. They made a re-
port of this kind on their return to camp and about the
same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren
ahead and reported their progress and the nature of the
crossing place, etc. A number of the brethren in com-
pany with Elder Kimball and Chesley went to the river
opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or go
on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it
was finally concluded to go up to the other ferry. We ac-
cordingly started at half past two. I went ahead on foot.
At three and a quarter miles, crossed a creek about five
feet wide. At half past four the encampment was formed
on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and
during the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half
a mile from our camp to the place where they ferry. I
arrived at the brethren's camp at four o'clock and learned
that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two of the
Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The
brethren concluded that a raft would be of no use on ac-
count of the swiftness of the current. The Missourian
company offered to pay them well if they would carry
their company over in the boat and a contract was made
to do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their
pay in flour at $2.50 per hundred. They commenced
soon after and this evening finished their work, and re-
ceived the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and some
bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in
provisions which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 235
-s a number of the brethren have had no bread stuff for
some days. During the afternoon yesterday, one of the
men of the Missourian company undertook to swim
across the river with his clothes on. When he reached
the current he became frightened and began to moan.
Some of our men went to him with the cutter and ar-
rived in time to save his life. The Missourian company
seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at hav-
ing got across the river so soon. Rodney Badger ex-
changed wagons with one of them and got a wagon as
good as his own, only the tire wants setting. He got a
horse, 100 Ibs. flour, 25 Ibs. of bacon and some crackers
to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be
worth as much as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived
here they have killed three buffalo, a grizzly bear and
three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo are very fat
and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea
of some French travelers camped here, the buffalo "are
making down east behind the hills opposite here, which
they say is a certain sign that the Indians are on Sweet
Water hunting them. The brethren say that the buffalo
are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned
to camp I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas
Johnson were missing, the former having started for the
hills to get a little snow ; the latter having been hunting
all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to
find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven
o'clock. Johnson was found by the brethren who re-
turned still later. All agreeing with the report that the
hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do
not appear more than one mile. There were four ante-
236 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
lope killed by the brethren but divided according to the
feelings of those who killed them.
SUNDAY, 13TH. The morning fine and pleasant. At
nine o'clock the brethren assembled in the circle for
prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder Kim-
ball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be
watchful and humible, to remember their covenants and
above all things avoid everything that will lead to di-
vision, etc. He made use of the similitude of the pot-
ter and the clay to show that every man had the priv-
ilege of being exhalted ito honor and glory if he did not
mar in the hands of the potter, but would continue pas-
sive, etc. His remarks were very touching and appro-
priate to our circumstances. President Young followed
next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it
guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which
fact will tend to his salvation and increase, but does not
give us liberty to break the laws of God, to wander off
to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill the works of
God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder
Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly
of every description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the
^ociety of just men and angels. He exhorted the breth-
ren to be watchful and to seek after wisdom and knowl-
edge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve and
a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the
wagons together to prevent their rolling over when cross-
ing. Another company were sent over the river to build a
raft to cross over provisions, etc. The brethren are gone
to work and are diligently preparing to cross the river
tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a sum-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 237
mer day than any we have yet had on the journey. The
ground seems to be alive with the large crickets, and it is
said that the bears feed on them and pick them up very
fast. A person w'ho has never seen them could form no
idea of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. 1
spent the day writing in Elder KimabU's journal. Phin-
eas Young came in from the mountain, having killed a
deer.
MONDAY, 14xH. Morning cloudy and cool. At four
o'clock the first division commenced ferrying their goods
over the river in the cutter and some time afterwards
commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which
proved to be very slow work. The second division also
began to take their goods over on a raft but the current
was so strong they only took two loads over in it and
then quit. The second division then got a rope stretched
across the river from shore to shore and lashing two
wagons fast together to keep them from rolling over,
they dragged them over by the rope, letting them drift
with the current ito save breaking the rope. When the
wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper
one keeled over, and finally rolled! over the other one,
breaking the bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in
the wagon to the amount of $30.00 belonging to John
Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken and some
of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together
abreast and dragged them over the same way. All got
over well except the upper one which turned on its side,
but it was righted again without damage. They next
tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the
current it rolled over and' over, breaking the bows pretty
238 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
badly. The plan of taking one wagon at a time on a raft
is the safest, no accident having occurred with it and the
wagons got over dry but it is very slow and would take
us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The
wind blows strong from the southwest which is much
to our disadvantage. At 3 :30 we had a very heavy thunder
storm. The rain was heavy indeed, accompanied by hail
and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After the
storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my
trunk, etc., and the loads in Brother Johnson and Har-
mon's wagons over, and also Harmon's wagon, John-
son's being got over just before the storm. It took till
nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and
get regulated. The river has been rising all day and has
risen very fast since the storm. The men have tried
hard, much of the time being in the water and sometimes
up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed. When
they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons
over, the second division twelve, making twenty-three
wagons after a very hard day's labor. There was no
difficulty in getting the freight over for one man can
carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the camp
can get the wagons over.
TUESDAY, 15TH. The morning fine but very windy.
The brethren continued ferrying wagons over on the
raft and also built two other rafts The wind being so
high they could not get along very fast. In the after-
noon they commenced driving over some of the horses
and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's company. They
neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the buf-
falo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 239
men immediately went to it with the skiff and dragged
him to the shore but could not succeed in bringing him
to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him from
swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got
over safely also ; the current was very strong, the wind
high and the river rising which made it look dangerous
to swim the cattle across. It was concluded today to
leave several brethren here to make a boat and keep a
ferry till the next company comes up. By that means
they will probably make enough to supply a large com-
pany with provisions. We have learned from; a Mis-
sourian that there is a large company of emigrants com-
ing up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island.
There are doubtless some of our brethren and if so they
will probably reach us before we get through. The day
continued windy and somewhat inclined to storm, but
they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over be-
fore night.
WEDNESDAY, 16rH. The morning fine but strong
west wind. The brethren continue ferrying. A com-
pany have gone back about three miles to make two
canoes on which they intend to build a boat to be used
here till the next company comes up. Another company
also went about half a mile up the river to make slabs
or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark
the brethren returned from below with two good canoes
twenty-five feet long each and nearly finished and ready
to put together. The ferrying continued all day but with
great difficulty on account of the strong wind blowing
down stream. When they started over with Brother
Goddard's wagon the wind was blowing strong. James
240 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Craig and Wordsworth were on the raft with poles arc'
when they got nearly half way across Brother Craig's
pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. lie
swam back to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's
exertions, the wind and current carried the raft about
two miles down the river. It was finally landed by the
help of the cutter and without accident. They have had
three rafts working today, two of which they now work
by oars which are proving to be far superior to poles in
this strong current. At the close of day there were still
a number of wagons on the south shore. Those which
had been brought over could not be easily counted on
account of their being scattered all along the banks of the
river for about a mile in length. It was now contem-
plated to leave a company of brethren at this ferry to
ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar and a half
a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This
is the object for which the new boat is being built. They
will thus earn a good stock of provisions for themselves
and be prepared to set the brethren of the next company
over without delay and will also be able to preserve the
boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the President
that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache
the boat and come on with them.
THURSDAY, I/TH. The morning fine but windy and
cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying early and soon
after noon they had got the last wagon safely over which
was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies
of the Missourians had arrived and made application to
be set over at a dollar and a half a load. When the con-
tract was made with the first company to be sent across
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 241
as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of
ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man
extra if they would set them over first, making $5.00
over the stated price for ferriage being ten of the breth-
ren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a con-
tract to the above effect with the first company and did
riot like to break it. However, he received a hint that
this was Colonel Markham's day for the use of the boat
and consequently Colonel Markham had a right to take
the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they
went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in
provisions at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in
what they preferred for themselves. The afternoon and
evening was very cold indeed with a very strong wind.
After President Young and Kimball got their wagons
over, being about the last, orders were given for the camp
to come together and form the wagons in a circle near
the ferry. It took till near dark before all the wagons
got up. The ferrying was continued all night and till
daylight at which time many of the Missiourians' wagons
in the two companies were over.
FRIDAY, 18TH. Morning very cold and windy. The
brethren continued working at the new boat, others con-
tinued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It was
concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finish-
ing the boat and also to take the provisions on which will
be realized from these two companies. After dinner, I
went with brother Pack to fish in the last creek we
crossed about a mile and a half distance. We found the
fish numerous and had god luck. I caught sixty- five
very nice ones which would average half a pound weight
17
242 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
each. About six o'clock I started back but found I had
got more than I could easily carry to camp. However,
when I got about half way, Brother Cloward met me and
helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about
sundown pretty well tired. The afternoon was very
warm and pleasant. When we arrived the Twelve and
some others were going to council. I went with them.
The names of those who are appointed to tarry were
read over as follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee,
Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon, Edmund Ellsworth,
Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport,
and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was ap-
pointed captain. The President then referred to Brother
Glines who was wishful to stay but the president said
he had no council for him to tarry, but he might do as
he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines,
but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have
him go on. The President preached a short sermon for
the benefit of the young elders. He represented them
as being continually grasping at things ahead of them
which belong to others. He said the way for young
elders to enlarge their dominion and power is to go to
the world and preach and then they can get a train and
bring it up to the house of the Lord with them, etc. The
letter of instructions was then read and approved by the
brethren and the council was then dismissed.
SATURDAY, 19-TH. Moring fine but cool. At 7:50
the camp started out again in good health and spirits
and the teams in very good order. It was remarked by
several that their stock had fattened so much while
stopping at the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 243
appears to be rich and good. The 'first six miles of the
road was nearly in a west direction over several consid-
erably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns sud-
denly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which
is upwards of a mile from the foot to the summit. There
is some interesting scenery on the top of this bluff, es-
pecially a range of rough, course, sandy rocks of a dark
brown color, rising abruptly above the surface of the
land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The
descent on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven,
and about half way down was a bed of white earth
mixed with black in places and others yellow. In one
place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each
color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot,
the road is still more uneven and there are several steep
pitches and rises. At one o'clock we halted for noon
on a spot of good grass about a quarter of a mile from
a small spring which is the first water we have come to
since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter
miles. There is no timber nearer than the bluffs prob-
ably two miles away and that is small cedar and little
of -it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite to this place
towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs
of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet
interesting appearance. After stopping about an hour it
was decided to move on to the spring and we started
accordingly and found it to be a small stream of water
rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of twelve
miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water sup-
posed to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see
the water boil up out of the mud in several places. The
244 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
grass on the banks of 'this lake is good and plentiful but
no timber within two miles or upwards. After watering
teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued
our journey, bearing near a southwest course over roll-
ing prairie. At the distance of eight miles from the spring
there is a steep descent from a bluff and at the foot
there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks running
parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leav-
ing only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the
south point there is a very large rock lying close to where
the road makes a bend, making it somewhat difficult
to get by without striking it. The road is also:., very
rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our en-
campment in a small spot surrounded by high bluffs, hav-
ing traveled this afternoon ten and a quarter miles and
during the day twenty-one and a half which is the long-
est distance we have traveled in one day since we left
Winter Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the
worst camping ground we have had on the journey, but
we were obliged to take it for there is neither wood,
grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land
being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing
but wild sage and a small prickly shrub something like
those on the moors in Lancashire, England. There is
some grass in . this place for our teams but no wood.
The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and
buffalo chips to do their cooking. There are two small
streams of water, one appears to come from the north-
west and is not very bad water; the other is from the
southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It
is strong of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 245
filthy. Its banks are so perfectly soft that a horse or
ox cannot go down to drink without sinking immediately
nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one of the
most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was
found necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle
from getting into it and orders were given to drive them
down a little east where feed is pretty good and it is not
so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes are very
bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome,
solitary scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned
from hunting soon after we had camped and reported
that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles off.
A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not
return till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo
while riding ahead to look out a camp ground. They
are represented as being more tame. Myers killed two
buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left
the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew
Gibbos left the camp at the springs and went out to
hunt, expecting we should stay there till Monday. Gib-
bons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton has
returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and
left it back not far from the spring. About nine o'clock
there was an alarm that an ox had mired. He was
nearly covered but soon got out again.
SUNDAY, 20rH. Morning fine, mosquitoes very
bad. Two more oxen found almost buried in the mud
and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and
at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first
mile was bad traveling, there being several steep pitches
in the road making it dangerous for axletrees. A num-
246 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
ber of the brethren went ahead with picks and spades
and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three
and three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at
seven o'clock beside a small clear stream of spring water
about a foot wide, but plenty for camping purposes. The
feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood yet.
Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson
were riding ahead last evening to look out a camping
ground they came within a quarter of a mile of this place
but were not near enough to discover the water. A
while before they arrived here, as they were riding slow-
ly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the
grass to the left of the road. The men were clothed in
blankets some white and some blue and had every ap-
pearance of being Indians and the brethren thought they
were Indians. The six mouted their horses and started
on in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren
also kept on their course. In a little while one of the sup-
posed Indians left the rest and rode towards the breth-
ren and motioned with his hand for them to go back.
They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his mo-
tion. When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round
and joined the others who all put spurs to their horses
and were soon out of sight behind a higher piece of land.
Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and Ben-
son spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they
arrived there they discovered a camp of the Missourians
about a quarter of a mile to the left of the road and the
six Indians were just entering the camp. The brethren
were now satisfied that these Indians were Missourians
and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 247
camp ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick
and an insult to the camp, and if they undertake to play
Indian again, it is more than likely they will meet with
Indian treatment. Their camp left here a little before we
arrived this morning and it is now President Young's
intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a
little. We have learned from one of the emigrants a
few miles in our rear that Andrew Gibbons tarried with
their camp over night. When he returned to the spring
and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp
there, he told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton.
They went and fetched what meat they wanted and
feasted on it, he joining with them and faring well. At
a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After
traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring
and halted a little while to get water. This spring is
about two feet wide and the water ten inches deep, per-
fectly clear, cold as ice water, and very good tasting.
There is a willow grove extending for some distance
above and below it which will answer very well for fir-
ing purposes. The grass is good and plentiful and it is
one of the loveliest camping spots I have seen on the.
journey, though the land where the stream runs below the
spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The
spring is situated between two very high hills and is
about three rods west of the road and shielded from the
sun by a bank about eight feet high and the willow
grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring
there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires
some care on the part of the teamsters to prevent ac-
cidents. At a quarter of a mile beyond the spring we
248 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
began to ascend a very high hill which was one mile from
the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The
summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to
be much the highest we have traveled over. From the
top can be seen a vast extent of country to the south,
west, and north. For about twenty or thirty miles to
the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom
over which our future road runs. Beyond this there are
vast ranges of high hills whose summits are spotted with
snow. In the distance to the southwest can be seen a
small body of water which we suppose to be a part of
the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks
or hills appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen
miles from us. On the north we can see hills a long dis-
tance. The one opposite Red Buttes, near the spring
where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few
miles distance. The view from this hill is one of ro-
mantic beauty which cannot easily be surpassed and as
President Young remarked, would be a splendid place
for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then de-
scended on the southwest corner of the hill an-d found it
to be just one mile farther to the foot. At the distance
of three quarters of a mile farther we found a good place
for feed, being plenty of grass, but no water nor wood.
At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very
bad slough which is about a rod across and following
the road, nearly three feet deep in water and stiff mud.
Most of the wagons crossed a little to the right of the
road and found it not so difficult to cross, yet very soft.
There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile
beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 249
though not very high and the descent on the southwest
is also very steep. At 2 :45 we halted to feed in a ravine
where there is plenty of grass and a good stream of water
about three hundred yards south from the road but desti-
tute of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles
over barren, sandy land being no grass only in the spots
above mentioned. During the halt it was decided that
President Young take the lead with his wagon and try to
proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again pro-
ceeded, the President's wagon going first; all the others
keeping their places. I will here remark that it is the
order of our traveling for each company of ten to go
forward in their turn. The first ten in the first division
taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls
in the rear of the first division, the second ten takes
the lead and this continues till each company of ten have
taken the lead one day a piece. Then the first division
falls in the rear of the second division which also be-
tgins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as
stated above and when each ten have had their day,
the second division again falls in the rear of the first
which continues in the same order. Thus every man lia^
his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After
traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bot-
tom land again and saw a small stream a little to the left
of the road where there is plenty of grass. One and three
quarters miles farther we crossed a creek of tolerably
clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep, but
neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling
seven miles this afternoon we turned off from the road
to the left and at 8:20 formed our encampment on a
250 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
ridge near the last metioned creek where there is good
feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter
miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road,
and during the day twenty miles. We had been in hopes
of reaching the Sweet Water but it appears we are
yet some miles from it. The whole country around is en-
tirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a
shrub larger than the wild sage which abounds in all
this region of country and will answer for cooking when
nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is felt on ac-
count of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John
Brown. They started ahead this morning with instruc-
tions to go on about fifteen miles and if they found a
good place to camp, to stay. They have not been seen
or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with
some of the companies either forward or back and have
concluded to tarry with them over night.
MONDAY, 21sx. Morning very fine and warm. From
this place we can see a huge pile of rocks to the south-
west a few miles. We have supposed this to be the rock
of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and
found that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from
south to north about five hundred feet and in widtii, one
hundred feet. The rocks are large and seem piled on one
another with the edges up. There is no earth on the
ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant
and rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the
top which had a long bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat
up and acted in every respect like a squirrel, but in size
and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp pro-
ceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 251
miles we arrived on a bed of saleratus which was a
quarter of a mile across and on which were several lakes
of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells bad.
The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus
itself is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in
eastern markets. Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in
a short time with a view to test its qualities. Large
quantities may be gathered in a short time and when pul-
verized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied
that the water we saw from the hills yesterday must
have been some of these lakes as the Sweet Water is not
yet in sight, but these being high, show at a long distance.
The water is not very salty but brackish and tastes sickly.
It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous, but it
is probable that all the poison there is about them is their
salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no
other water, and the more they drink, the more thirsty
they get till they burst themselves, which is said to be
the effect of drinking the poison, viz. to burst. As we
passed along a little farther we saw another large lake
to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their
banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock
we arrived on the banks of the Sweet Water, having trav-
eled seven and a half miles over a very sandy road desti-
tute of wood, water or grass. The distance from the
upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine
miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a
ford here but lately emigrants have found a better ford
higher up the river. At this place the river is probably
seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep at
the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The
252 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
current is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleas-
ant tasting. By watching it closely it is easy to see on
the surface numerous small bright particles floating
which at first sight might be supposed to be salt, how-
ever the water itself has not the least saline taste. On
the banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but
destitute of wood there being only one solitary tree to be
seen and that stands beside this fording place. The only
chance for fuel appears to be the wild sage and other
small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the
low banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made
some bread using the lake saleratus and when baked
was pronounced to raise the bread and taste equal to the
best she had ever used an-d it requires less of this than
the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went
back during the halt and filled their pails with it cal-
culating to make use of it during our future journey. The
day has been very hot and no wind which makes it un-
pleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again
joined the camp on our arrival here and reported that
they had spent the night in one of the gentile camps
which are now some miles ahead of us. There are many
high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighbor-
hood, especially in the east and west, all entirely desti-
tute of vegetation and which present a very wild and
desolate as well as romantic aspect. I can describe their
appearance only by saying that it seems as though giants
had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tre-
mendous size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of
heavy clay which has consolidated and become solid, hard
rock. The rock Independence lies a little west of where
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 253
\
we have halted and after dinner I went to view it as
well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the
river in this shape : The extreme southeast corner reaches
to within about three rods of the river and runs in a di-
rection northwest while the river at this place runs nearly
a west course. It is composed of the same barren granite
as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards
long, 80 yards wide and 100 yard in perpendicular height
as near as I could guess. The ascent is difficult all
around. Travelers appear to have ascended it mostly at
the southeast corner where there are some hundreds of
names of persons who have visited it, both male and
female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black,
red, and some with yellow paint. About half way up
there is a cavern about twelve feet long and three feet
wide at the bottom but at the top about ten feet wide and
eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of
rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity
leaving scarcely room enough for a man to enter. How-
ever there are three places by which it may be entered
though not without difficulty. There are a number of
names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless
being the names of persons who have visited it. On the top
of the rock the surface is a little rounding something like
a large mound with large masses of loose rock lying scat-
tered around. Proceeding forward you descend, when
nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower
surface which continues some distance and then rises
high again to about the same height as the first section.
On the top there are a number of small pools of water,
no doubt collected during heavy rains and having no
254 WILLIAk CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
/
chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the
atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep
and taste like rain water. It is more difficult descend-
ing from the rock than to ascend it on account of its
being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on, and a
visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground
with bruised limbs. At three o'clock p. m. they started
on and on arriving at the rock found it to be one and a
quarter miles from noon halt. We put up a guide board
oppoiste the rock with this inscription on it. "To Fort
John 175 1/4 miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R."
The letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards
at the doctor's request so as to have a mark that the
Saints might know ; and his brand is generally known by
the Saints. After traveling on the banks of the river one
mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it nearly
three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over
without difficulty or much loss of time. We then con-
tinued a southwest course four and a half miles farther
and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which lies a little to
the west of the road ; and a quarter of a mile beyond
this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite,
leaving a surface of about two rods of level ground on
each side the road. The road then bends to the west
and a quarter of a mile farther, passes over a small creek
two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its being
deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to
prevent accident. President Young, Kimball and others
went to view the north side of 'Devil's Gate and return-
ing reported that the devils would not let them pass, or
meaning that it was impossible to go through the gate-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 25S
way so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at
6 :35 formed our encampment on the bank of the river
having traveled this afternoon seven and three quarters
miles, and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The
feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can be
obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about i
quarter of a mile back. After we had camped I went
back to view the Devil's Gate where the river runs be-
tween two high rocky ridges for the distance of about
200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular
and was found by a barometrical measurements by Elder
Pratt to be 399 feet 4 1/4 inches high. The one on the
west side is about the same height but not perpendicular
bending a little from the river gradually to the top. The
river has a channel of about three rods in width through
this pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing
furiously against the huge fragments of rock which have
fallen from the mountain, makes a roar which can be
heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren fired off
his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled
much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments
of rocks from a projection at the entrance about 150 feet
high, which made a very loud rumbling sound caused by
the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic grandeur and
it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a chan-
nel through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view
from this evening's encampment over the surrounding
country is sublime. To the east, south, and southwest
the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spot-
ted with snow ; and about twenty to thirty miles distance
from the river to the west are also hills and ridges inter-
256 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
spersed as far as the eye can reach, except the land im-
mediately on the river which appears even for many miles.
These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the
river seem to continue for many miles.
TUESDAY, 22ND. Morning fine. At 7:20 we con-
tinued our journey and about 200 yards from where we
camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet
wide descending from the southwest. After traveling
three miles over heavy, sandy roads, we crossed another
creek about six feet wide; and three and three quarters
miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near this
last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle
trees which detained him some time. One of the Mis-
sourian companies came up soon after the accident and
took his load into one of their wagons and by splicing a
piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow
our camp. At 11 :55 we halted on the banks of the river,
having traveled ten miles over a very sandy, barren land,
there being no grass only on the creeks and river banks.
During the halt, Elder Pratt took an observation and
found the latitude of this place 42 28' 25". President
Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was
coming on with the Missourian company who were ap-
proaching near us. He immediately turned about and on
arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and pro-
ceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say
they have traveled from Independence Rock without halt-
ing. However, they passed before we could start and
got ahead of us. The day has been hot and a little wind.
At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 257
the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake
on our left which covers an area of over 80 acres of land.
Its banks are mostly white with the alkali or saleratus.
After passing this lake the road runs south, passing be-
tween high sandy bluffs after which it again turns around
gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff
over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and
three quarters miles crossed a creek about six feet wide
and a foot deep. The bank on each side is very steep
and sandy, making it difficult for teams to get up. Here
Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his
horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out
of the creek. They cleared themselves from the wagon
which was hauled up by a yoke of oxen so as not to
hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this creek
are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very
large and thick on the ground on account of which Elder
Kimball named this Sage creek. After passing this creek
one and three quarters miles we again arrived on the
banks of the river and continued to travel near to it.
At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three
feet wide, but not much to be depended on for water.
At 7:50 we formed our encampment at the foot of a
very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having trav-
eled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and dur-
ing the day twenty and three quarters miles over mostly
a very sandy road. This is a very good camp ground,
there being plenty of grass for our teams which is well
worth traveling a few miles extra. Front- this place the
country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially
on the west. Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have
18
258 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
each killed an antelope during the day, but there appears
to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.
WEDNESDAY, 23RD. Morning fine and warm. After
breakfast I went to the top of the high bluff expecting
to get a good view of the country west but was disa-
pointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but
a little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp
moved forward and immediately after saw a graveyard
on the left of the road with a board stuck up with these
words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B. July 16th,
1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward
that some of the nuermous emigrants who had prob-
ably started with a view to spend the remainder of their
days in the wild Oregon, had fallen by the way and their
remains had to be left by their friends far from the place
of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord
will kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they
may be permitted to gather to the future home of the
Saints, enjoy the society of the people of God for many
years to come, and when their days are numbered that
their remains may be deposited at the feet of the ser-
vants of God, rather than be left far away in a wild coun-
try. And oh, Lord, grant this sincere desire of thy ser-
vant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen. After trav-
eling one and a half milejS we crossed a very shoal stream
of clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little
grass here although a number of bitter cottonwood trees
grow on the banks. There being no name on the map
for this creek; it was named Bitter Cottonwood Creek to
designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this
stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 259
mountains and if so, could not be depended on for a
camp ground late in the summer. After passing this
creek, the river runs between some of the high rocky
ridges, the road at the same time bending a little south-
west to pass around them. After traveling five miles
beyond the last mentioned creek, we again descended to
the banks of the river where would be a pretty good camp
ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in many
other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till
1 1 :05 on the river banks then halted for noon where the
road and river separated a little farther and hence we
would probably not find grass again for a number of
miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard
on teams ; our course about west, the day very warm
with a light south breeze. We traveled eight and a half
miles this morning. There are some small cedar trees
on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since
we passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place
42 31' 20". At 1 :10 we continued our journey and
after proceeding half a mile, found the river turns be-
tween the granite ridges in a northwest direction and
seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in
several places. The road at the same place turns south
to avoid the ridges for over a mile and then bends to
the southwest for some distance farther. The road at
the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy
traveling. On arriving at the south side of the hills,
we were suddenly cheered with a very plain view of the
Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains towering high
up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of
the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evi-
260 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
dently many miles from them yet. After we passed this
place, the road gradually bends to the west and north-
west and at the distance of six and three quarters miles
from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river
again. We continued on the banks of the river till 6 :20,
at which time we formed our encampment, having trav-
eled this afternoon eight and a half miles and during the
day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the
river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo
chips and wild sage which answer tolerably well for
cooking. The land over which we have traveled, except
in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly barren
except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely
a spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges con-
tinue from the Rock Independence to this place, mostly
on the north side the river. Here they recede from the
river a few miles and then cease. There are two of the
Missourian companis camped, one about a half a mile an-1
and the other a mile west of us and we are given to un-
derstand we have got a long distance to travel without
grass or water. It is stated that a man from one of
these companies left his company a few days ago and
went ahead to examine the route, etc. On their arrival
here they found him in one of these rocky hills hid up for
fear of the Indians. He reports that he has been to
the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen
miles from here. He has come from the pass in two
nights and hid up in the day time to avoid Indians, but
has seen none. He says it is not over twenty-eight miles
to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost
set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 261
the wheels of the wagons for one of the Missourians.
There are no buffalo to be seen yet and not much game
of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope and the
brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet
Water mountains do not appear very high but have con-
siderable snow lying on them in some places. They ap-
pear to run nearly parallel with the river to about from
twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.
THURSDAY, 24iH. Morning fine but cool. It was
calculated to make an early start so as to pass the two
companies of the Missourians and get the best chance for
feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before
we were ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a
little over a mile from where we camped, found the river
again bending northwest while the road continues near
a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of
this, we appear to have a level road for many miles.
After traveling five miles from morning, we arrived at a
level strip of land on the north side of the road where
there is plenty of grass and apparently swampy and
soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a
mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road
crosses the lower land although the grass and hollow
continue southward for some distance. Just above where
the road crosses at the west end there is some water
standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land
probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the
northwest corner is a hole dug which is called the Ice
Spring. The water in the hole smells strong of sulphur
or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the water
which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as" I ever
262 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
saw and good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken
some pieces off which floated and I ate some of it which
tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice is said to be four
inches thick. The water is very cold although the weather
is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring,
there is a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of
the road and a little farther, still another lake. The latter
is more pleasant tasting than the other, not being so
strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like lye water
mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white
with alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren
picked up their pails full but we have learned that it
ought to be used with care, it being so much stronger
'than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used it
makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the
ice spring ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven
road, we descended a very steep bluff close in the rear
of one of the Missourian companies. The other had halted
a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While wind-
ing around and descending from this bluff we came in
sight of the river again and about the same time. Elder
Kimball picked up an Indian arrow point made of flint
stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white as
alabaster. At 3 :30 we tarried a little south from the
road and formed our encampment in a line so as to en-
close a bend in the river, having traveled seventeen and
three quarters miles without halting on account of there
being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here
is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The
river is about three rods wide and clearer and very cool.
The lat five or six miles of the road were not so sandy
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 263
but hard ancl good traveling. One of the Missourian
companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece
down the river at the fording place. A while before dark
when the brethren were fetching up their teams, John
Holman, while bringing up President Young's best horse,
having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse undertook
to run back past him and to prevent his running
back, he jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his
clothes, the gun went off lodging the ball in the animal's
body. It entered a little forward of the nigh hind leg
on the under side of his belly making quite a large ho-le.
The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many
he cannot survive long. He appears to be in great pain,
the sweat falling from his forehead in large drops. Presi-
dent Young is evidently filled with deep sorrow on ac-
count of this accident but attaches no blame to John who
seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel
sorrowful, this being the second horse shot by accident
on this mission.
FRIDAY, 25TH. President Young's horse is dead.
The morning is fine but very cool. At twenty minutes
to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the
river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road
last night. We found it still nearly three feet deep and
the current very swift. After proceeding a half a mile
beyond the ford, we crossed a stream about a rod wide
which appears to come from the northeast and empties
into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this
stream, we turned from the river to the northwest and
began to ascend a very high bluff which we found pretty
steep and over a mile and a half to the top. The road
264 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
then gradually bends around towards the river and be-
gins to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a
quarter miles from where we camped, strikes the river
again and continues a quarter of a mile on its banks.
Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there being
sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a
quarter of a mile near the river we encountered another
high sandy ridge, the road again winding to the north
to cross it. The descent on the west side is very steep
and unpleasant. We strike the river again after trav-
eling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it,
but it is the opinion of many that by fording the river
twice at the foot of the ridge we could save a mile and
they think it can be forded. Colonel Rockwood has paid
particular attention to the place and reports that one
hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of
the ridge so as to make it good passing and save rising
the ridge and a mile's travel without fording the river.
After leaving the west foot of this ridge, we crossed a
stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter
of a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide.
On examining it, we found it to be a branch of the river
running around a piece of land about a quarter of a mile
across and forming a semi-circular island. The last cross-
ing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on
each side the river seem to approach much nearer to
each other and leave only a small strip of low land on
each bank. At 11 :20 passed a creek two feet wide and
halted for noon having traveled eight and three quarte r -
miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest
and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 265
the wagons with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder
Pratt's observation is 42 28' 36". At 1 :20 we proceeded
again, our road running on the river banks two miles
then turning to the northwest and ascending a succession
of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding
around and over hill and valley in some places over a
good hard road, and in other places over rocks and broken
fragments of rock, making it severe on wagons and re-
quiring great care in teamsters. About a half mile north
of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank
of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and
amused themselves by snowballing each other. Brother
Carrington says there is every appearance of a rich lead
mine in the same place, he having examined the place
minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wag-
ons and we ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the
heat of the day. After arriving on the top of these ridges
we began to descend gradually over rolling land, but the
descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At the dis-
tance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we
crossed a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams
to get the loads over without help and one and a quarter
miles beyond the swamp a creek a foot wide and a quarter
of a mile farther still another one two feet wide. These
all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the
middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank
which at present forms a kind of bridge over the creek.
At 6 :45 we formed our encampment on the north banks
of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled this af-
ternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day
twenty and a quarter. This creek is very clear and cold.
266 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
Its banks are well lined with willows and about a mile
below the camp there is a grove of white poplar in which
house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot
through. There are several banks of snow a little to the
north and some of the brethren have found ice four or
five inches thick and brought a quantity of it to camp.
On the banks of the creek there are some groves of
gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them.
There are also some strawberry roots and flowers and a
little white clover has been found, but there is yet no
appearance of the great abundance of such things as trav-
elers have represented. The land appears somewhat more
likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains,
but all calculations for farming in this region would be
likely to fail on account of the scarcity of timber. It
would only be natural to suppose that the nights are very
cold here, while so much snow lies around. It requires
considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the mid-
dle of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren
have traveled up the banks of the Sweet Water river and
represent it as tumbling and foaming over rocks and de-
scending very rapidly on account of the great rise of the
ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs
within a mile and a half south of this but it is probable
it is only a branch of it as we are evidently not near the
main branch yet. There is one of the gentile companies
camped about a mile below, making the third company
we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead
of them and have the advantage of the good feed and
camping grounds.
SATURDAY, 26TH. Morning very cold and consider-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 267
able ice froze in the water pails during the night. At
7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At
one mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs
a little south of the road where there is a small grove of
small timber. Elder Pratt has gone ahead with the bar-
ometer to try to find the culminating point or highest
dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at
the east foot of the pass. Freemont represents that he
did not discover the highest point on account of the
ascent being so gradual that they were beyond it be-
fore they were aware of it, although in company with a
man who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen
years. Ait two and three-quarters miles beyond the last
small creek, we crossed the branch of the Sweet Water
about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water clear
and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it
not so cold, as it must be from the fact that large deep
banks of snow are now lying on its banks both above
and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie, there
is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two
and a quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed an-
other stream about eight feet wide on an average, though
where the ford is, it is nearly three rods wide and two
feet deep. This water is also very clear and the banks
well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a
superior camping ground to the one back. There seem to
be a great many antelope at the foot of the mountains
which is about all the game to be seen. After crossing
the last stream, we climb another high range of hills
over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is
a pleasant view of the surrounding country but all en-
268 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
tirely destitute of timber except on and at the base of
the mountains many miles distance from the road. We
have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as
well as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind
River mountains on the north. At 12:40 we halted on
the main branch of the Sweet Water having traveled
eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide,
three feet deep and current very swift. The water is
clear and cold as the snow which lies on its banks in
places six or eight feet deep. This is a lovely place for
a camp ground, there being abundance of good, rich grass
about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel.
Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snow-
balling each other on one of the large snow banks a few
rods below the camp. Soon after we halted Eric Glines
came up, having left the brethren at the upper ferry on
the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped
one night alone, the other nights he camped with Mis-
sourians. He does not assign any reason why he fol-
lowed us, but evidently considering to repent and obey
council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The
weather is now warm and pleasant and but little wind.
At 2:20 we moved onward, ascending again on pretty
high land where we found good traveling. The latitude
at our noon halt was 42 22' 42". After traveling seven
miles this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower
land and some grass, and inasmuch as we have found no
stream as laid down on Freemont's map since leaving the
Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any
for some miles farther, the wagons halted while Presi-
dent Young and some others went over the ridge to the
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 269
north to look for a camp ground as some of the brethren
said the Sweet Water was close by. President Young
soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the
road and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed
our encampment on the banks of the Sweet Water, at the
distance of a little over a quarter of a mile from the road,
having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles,
and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a
good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and wil-
lows. There are many small pebbles of hard flint rock
on the flat land a little back and some almost as clear
as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and some others are
some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a
number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They
soon returned in company with Elder Kimball who re-
ported that he had been on as much as six miles to where
the head' waters of the Atlantic divide from those of the
Pacific, that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small
party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U.
S. It is now a certainty that we are yet two miles short
of the dividing ridge of the South Pass by the road. This
ridge divides the headwaters of the Atlantic from those
of the Pacific and although not the highest lajid we
have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be
the summit of the South Pass. The Wind River moun-
tains appear very high from this place but on the south
there is very little appearance of mountains, Table Rock
itself appearing but a little elevated.
'SUNDAY, 2?TH. Morning fine but cold. The ox
teams started at five minutes to eight and the remainder
shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men
270 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
on their way back having over twenty horses and mules
with them mostly laden with packs of robes, skins, etc.
Several of the brethren sent letters back by them. At
two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the dividing
ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation
and found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the
sea. This spot is 278J/2 miles from Fort John and is
supposed to divide the Oregon and Indian Territory by
a line running north and south. At two miles farther
we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the
head waters of the Green River and although the stream
is small, we have the satisfaction of seeing the current
run west instead of east. The face of the country west
looks level except far in the distance where a range
of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow.
There is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any
in sight except on the mountains. Since leaving the
pass we have descended considerably, winding around
and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good.
One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and
then intends to wait for the next companies, etc., and act
as a pilot for them. His name is Harris and he appears to
be extensively known in Oregon and the subject of much
dispute on account of his having found out a new route
to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to
be a man of intelligence and well acquainted with the
western country. He presented a file of the Oregon
papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five fol-
lowing numbers for our perusal during the day. He also
presented a number of the California Star published at
Yerba P>uena by Samuel Brannan and edited by E. P.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 271
[ones. ! had the privilege of perusing several of these
papers during the day but found little interesting news.
Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear
River valley and the region around the salt lake. From
his description, which is very discouraging, we have lit-
tle chance to hope for even a moderately good country
anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole re-
gion as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegeta-
tion except the wild sage. He gives the most favorable
account of a small region under the Bear River moun-
tains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced
caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians.
He represents this as being a fine place to winter cattle.
After halting some time we proceeded onward and
crossed the stream which is about three feet wide, then
halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six
and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this
halt was 42 18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and pro-
ceeded over gently rolling land, and good hard road till
6 :40 when we formed our encampment on the west banks
of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine
miles and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The
country west for many miles appears destitute of timber
and the view is very extensive. There is very little grass
to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek. There
is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by dig-
ging and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can
easily be obtained to supply a large company. Elder Kim-
ball has been on the road nearly two miles farther but
discovered no chance for a camping ground better than
this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above
272 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
the mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the
Rear Springs which might answer our purpose pretty
well if the report is true. It is about thirty miles long
and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered. We
generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves
for the reports of travelers are so contradictory it is im-
possible to know which is the truth without going to
prove it. It is three years today since our brethren Joseph
and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the general
feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the
gentile companies being close in our rear and feed scarce,
it was considered necessary to keep ahead of them for the
benefit of our teams, but many minds have reverted back
to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a gratification
that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get
from under the grasp of our enemies.
MONDAY, 28rH. Morning fine but cool. Many of the
brethren are trading with Mr. Harris for pants, jackets,
shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins them-
selves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and
$2.00; a pair of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles,
powder, lead, caps or calico and domestic shirts in ex-
change but puts his own price on both sides and it is
difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven
we proceeded on our journey. M]r. Harris waiting for
the other companies. After traveling six miles the road
forks, one continuing a west course, the other taking a
southwest course. We took the left hand road which
leads to California. This junction of the road is 297 l />
miles from Fort John. We then continued to travel over
a desert land yielding nothing but wild sage and occa-
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 273
sionally a grass root and weeds until 1 :30 when we ar-
rived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little
Sandy, having traveled thirteen and a half miles with-
out signs of wood, water or feed for our teams. This
stream is about twenty feet wide on an average but at
the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet
deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much
grass and no timber except willow bushes. There is a
variety of roots bearing very handsome colored flowers.
One of the brethren has picked up a large piece of petri-
fied wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cotton-
wood tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted
and broken off short then petrified and turned to a solid,
heavy, hard, flint stone, but retaining its original shape
and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced fording tin-
river and found it in no way difficult until a number of
the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be
soft and muddy. Several of the latter teams required
help. At 4:45 all were safely over with no loss except
two tar buckets considered to be of no worth. We then
proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther,
but after traveling a little over a mile we were met by
Rider G. A. Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of
Bridger's Fort on his way to Fort John in company with
two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed that we had
designed to call at his place to make some inquiries about
the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road
here and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A
camping place being selected we turned off from the
road about a quarter of a mile and formed our encamp-
ment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled this
19
274 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of al-
lowance for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen
and a quarter miles. We have pretty good feed here,
enough to fill the teams well. A while after we camped,
the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to
make some inquiries concerning our future route, the
country, etc. It was impossible to form a correct idea
of either from the very imperfect and irregular way he
gave his descriptions, but the general items are in sub-
stance as follows:
We will find better grass as we proceed farther on.
His business is to Fort Laramie. His traders have gone
there with robes, skins, etc., to fill a contract, but having
started later than they intended the men at Laramie have
taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the
business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his
fort at present. There was one but it was destroyed.
There have been nearly a hundred wagons gone on the
Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross
the Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his
place and pass below the mountains which cross Green
river. The Green river runs over an extent of country
of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow down
Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some
have gone down with canoes, but had great difficulty get-
ting back on account of the rapid current and rough
channel. Cannot pass the mountains close to the river
even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain
of mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is
hard black rock which looks as if it were glazed when the
sun shines on it, and so hard and sharp it will cut a
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 275
horse's feet to pieces. When we get below the moun-
tains, the Green River falls into a level country for some
distance after which it winds through a mountainous
country perfectly barren to the Gulf of California. From
Bridger's fort to the salt lake, Hastings said was about
one hundred miles. He has been through fifty times
but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hast-
ings' route leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can
pass the mountains farther south, but in some places we
would meet with heavy bodies of timber and would have
to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there
is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple.
There is not an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of
as splendid pine as he ever saw. There is no timber on
the Utah Lake only on the streams which empty into
it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the
salt lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red
and white clover. The outlet of the Utah Lake does not
form a large river, neither a rapid current but the water
is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been
around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting
and had their horses stolen by the Indians. They then
went around the lake in canoes hunting beaver and were
three months going around it. They said it was 550
miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the
region around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If
they catch a man alone they are sure to rob and abuse
him if they don't kill him, but parties of men are in no
danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was
a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil
is good and likely to produce corn were it not for the ex-
cessive cold nights which he thinks would prevent the
276 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
growth of corn. There is a good country south of the
Utah Lake or southeast of the great 'basin. There are
three large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake un-
known to travelers. There is also a splendid range of
country on the north side of the California mountains
calculated to produce every kind of grain and fruit and
there are several places where a man might pass from it
over the mountains to the California settlements in one
day. There is a vast abundance of timber and plenty of
coal. There is also plenty of coal in this region near the
mountains. North of the California mountains there is
walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good tim-
ber on and in the neighborhood of the mountains and
streams southeast of the great basin. There can be a
wagon road made through to it and no lack of water. The
great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of
California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to
have been an arm of the sea. The three rivers before
mentioned are southwest of the desert. There is a tribe
of Indians in that country who are unknown to either
travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise
abunadnce of grain of various kinds. He can buy any
quantity of the very 'best of wheat there. This country
lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one mountain
in that region and the country adjoining in which he con-
siders if ever there was a promised land, that must be it.
There is a kind of cedar grows on it which bears fruit
something like juniper berries of a yellow color about
the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind the
fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily
gather a hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 277
this fruit and used to pick his hat full in a very short
time. There are a great many little streams head in this
nountain and many good springs. It is about twenty
days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the coun-
try to it is bad to get through and over a great part of it,
nothing for animals to subsist on. He supposes there
might be access to it from Texas. On one of the rivers
there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it.
It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver
mine. There is iron, coal, etc. The land is good ; the
soil rich. All the valleys abound with persimmons and
grapes which will make the best kind of wines. Hie never
saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty
of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the
Utah Lake is the best country in the vicinity of the Salt
Lake and the country is still better the farther south we
go until we meet the desert which is upwards of 200 miles
south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of timber on
all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in
the streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake
and plenty of good grass; not much of the wild sage
only in small patches. Wild flax grows in most of the
valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed through
that country a year ago last summer in the month of
July, and they generally had one or two showers every
day sometimes a very heavy thunder shower but not ac-
companied by strong wind. By following under the moun-
tain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which
enters into anther lake about fifty miles south of the
Utah Lake. We shall find plenty of water from here
to Bridger's Fort except after we cross Green River and
278 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
travel five miles beyond it where we shall have to travel
eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is
plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow
down it four or five miles to the old station then cross
over to a stream which heads in the mountains west. The
station is more than half way from here to his place.
We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the
fort except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah
Lake and this side the desert raise corn, wheat and other
kinds of grain and produce in abundance. The Utah's
abound more on the west of the mountains near the salt
lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no
need to fear them for we can drive the whole of them
in twenty-four hours but he would not kill them, he
would make slaves of them. The Indians south of the
Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as
were ever raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead
mine between the mountains and Laramie on a timbered
creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found lead there
and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be
found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from
the road.
Such was the information we obtained from Mr.
Bridger, but we shall know more about things and have
a better understanding when we have seen the country
ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger
and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dis-
missed, Mr. Bridger going with President Young to sup-
per, the remainder retiring to their wagons conversing
over the subject touched upon. The evening was very
fine but mosquitoes numerous.
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 279
TUESDAY, 29iH. Morning very pleasant till the
sun got up a little, then it was very hot. We started at
7 :40 and traveled over very good roads through barren
land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the
Big Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles.
The second division have passed over the river but the
first division halted on the north side. This stream ap-
pears to be about seven rods wide at this place and about
two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally so
wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks
and plenty of grass in places for teams. At 1 :30 we again
proceeded, President Young and some others going ahead
in the cutter wagon to look out a camp ground for the
night. Our course still lies about southwest, the road
generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and
in some places the surface is covered with loose frag-
ments of hard rock. After traveling nine and a half
miles President Young rode up and reported that we
would have to go at least six miles farther before we
could get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the
teamsters spurred up in order to get through. Most of
the road after this for four miles was very hilly and un-
even and in places the loose fragments of rocks made it
very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road
by the spare men. The weather grew cooler towards
evening, some large clouds rising in the west which fa-
vored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we found our-
selves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again
and formed our encampemnt, having traveled since noon
seventeen miles and during the day twenty-three and
three-quarters, which is the greatest day's journey we
280 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp
was formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of
feed for teams but no wood for fuel. Many of the breth-
ren have gone down sick within the past three days and a
number more this evening. They generally begin with
headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go de-
lirous for a while. Brother Fowler was seized this af-
ternoon and this evening is raving. It is supposed by
some that this sicknes is caused by the use of the mineral
saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface of
the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider
also that we inhale the effulvium arising from it, which
has the like effect. It appears to be an article which
ought to be used with great care if used at all. There*
has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of
long duration.
WEDNESDAY, 30m. Morning hot. We resumed
our journey at 8:15, several others of the brethren being
reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others
rode ahead again. We found the roads very good but
sandy and filling the wagons with dust. At 1 1 :30 we
arrived on the banks of Green River, having traveled
eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under
the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about
sixteen to eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep
to be forded. Its banks are well lined with cottonwood
but none large enough to make a canoe. There are also
many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes abound
'/earing pretty roses. This river is 338^ miles from Fort
John or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which
might answer for farming on each bank of the river. The
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 281
grass grows good and plentiful but still not so much as
has been represented. After dinner the brethren com-
menced making two rafts, one for each division, and a
while afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, hav-
ing come from the Pacific to meet us, obtain council,
etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the firm of Jackson
Heaton & Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There is
another young man in company with them. They have
come by way of Fort Hall and brought with them, sev-
eral files of the California Star. They had eleven deaths
on board their ship during their voyage over, the others
I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards
evening a storm blew up from the west and although we
had no rain we had tremendous wind. The first division
finished their raft before dark. There is a slough a little
down the river where some of the brethren have caught
some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so very
troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.
THURSDAY, JULY 1, 1847. This morning found my-
self laboring under a severe attach of the fever, accomp-
anied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The
brethren commenced ferrying but got only fourteen
wagons over on account of the very high wind.
FRIDAY, 2ND. The day was more pleasant and the
ferrying continued more rapidly. I got over the river
before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the
twelve had a council and decided to send three or four
men back to serve as guides to the next company.
SATURDAY, 3RD. The morning more unfavorable.
The brethren got the last wagon over before noon, no
accident having happened, and about the time they fin-
282 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
ished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and
wind. It was concluded for some of the brethren to go
on and look out a camp ground a few miles ahead so as
to shorten the distance of the next day's travel. The
brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness
up and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and w/ent
on three miles, then formed encampment in the midst of
an army of mosquitoes. These insects are more numer-
ous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was
covered with them, making the teams restive in the
wagons. There is plenty of grass for teams and it is the
intention to tarry here till Monday morning. At night
President Young gave the brethren some instructions
about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be
wise, etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet
the next company, viz. Phineas Young, George Wood-
ard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney Badger. They
are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a
horse which cannot be spared by the camp.
SUNDAY, 4-TH. The morning fine and warm. The
five brethren have started back to meet the other com-
pany. President Young, Kimball and others went back
with them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the
brethren assembled for meeting in the circle. At 2 :30
p. m. the brethren returned from the ferry accompanied
by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They
have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us.
They feel well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers,
after which President Young moved that we give glory
to God which was done by hosannas. William Walker
was with them but has gone back with the five brethren
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 283
to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped
is opposite to the junction of the Big Sandy and Green
River. On the other side the river there is a range of
singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute of vegetation,
and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves which
are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleas-
ant and interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother
Crow's oxen was found to be poisoned through eating
some kind of a weed and was much swollen. I under-
stand it was dead when they found it.
MONDAY, STH. At eight o'clock we pursued our
journey, many of the brethren still being sick though
generally improving. After traveling three and a half
miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it
bending westward. We have now a very pleasant view
of the Bear River mountains far to the southwest, their
summits capped with snow. We found the land some-
what rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep
places of descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of
Blacks Fork and formed our encampment, having trav-
eled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a half without
sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide,
very swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each
side are very pleasant but not much grass for teams.
There is one place in the road where we might have
saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank
which would probably have detained us about twenty
minutes, but it was not discovered till most of the wagons
had passed over.
TUESDAY, 6xH. Morning very pleasant. We started
on our journey at 7:50 and after traveling three and
284 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid stream
about three rods wide and two feet deep ; and this would
be a good place to camp, there being an abundance of
high bunch grass on the banks. One and a half miles
farther we crossed Blacks Fork which appears to be
about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep,
but little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind
over uneven road with many pitches caused by heavy
rains washing the land, which is generally barren. After
traveling eleven miles beyond the last stream, crossed a
small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four
o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed
our encampment on its banks, having traveled eighteen
and a quarter miles. At this place there is a fine speci-
men of the wild flax which grows all around. It is con-
sidered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue
flower. There is also an abundance of the rich bunch
grass in the neighborhood of the river back and many
wild currants. The prairies are lined with beautiful
flowers of various colors, chiefly blue, red and yei-
low, which have a rich appearance and would serve to
adorn and beautify an eastern flower garden.
WEDNESDAY, 7xH. This morning we proceeded at
7 :35 and after traveling two and a half miles, forded
Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of good
grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling
two and three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream
about two rods wide and two feet deep, very swift cur-
rent, also lined on its banks with bunch grass. At twelve
o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last
stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 285
road. The day very windy and filling the wagons with
dust. Some of the wagons have gone on expecting to
reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1 :40 we moved
forward and found the road more even, though in many
places rendered bad by the cobble stones. After travel-
ing seven and a half miles we arrived opposite to nine
Indian lodges erected on the south of the road. Here we
halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one of the
trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are
not many Indians here but they appear to have a great
many handsome ponies. We then continued on and after
fording four creeks on an average about a rod wide, we
arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roado-
meter to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a
mile beyond the fort and formed our encampment after
crossing three more creeks, having traveled this after-
noon eight and three-quarters miles and during the day
seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plenti-
ful in this neighborhood and much higher than we have
generally seen it. The whole region seems filled with
rapid streams all bending their way to the principal fork.
They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow
on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till
they join Black's Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of
two double log houses about forty feet long each and
joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high constructed
by placing poles upright in the ground close together,
which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There
are several Indian lodges close by and a full crop of
young children playing around the door. These Indians
are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs inhabiting
286 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is
41 19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea ac-
cording to Elder Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is
doubtless a very cold region and little calculated for
farming purposes. To the west is a pretty high mountain
which appears well covered with timber. The country
all around looks bleak and cold.
THURSDAY, STH. Morning fine but high wind. It
is concluded to stay a day here to set some wagon tires,
etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and some
clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and
got twenty pretty good skins for them. The day con-
tinued warm with high wind. Evening there was a coun-
cil and some complaints listened to from George Mills
against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas
Williams and S. Brannan to return from here and meet
Captain Brown's company from Pueblo. Inasmuch as
the brethren have not received their discharge nor their
paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to
tender his services as pilot to conduct a company of
fifteen or twenty to San Francisco if they feel disposed
to go there and try to get their pay. Williams came
clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of
his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get
no encouragement from President Young to make the
attempt.
FRIDAY, 9TH. We started at eight o'clock, the
brethren who go back bidding good bye to the camp and
proceeding on their back journey while we moved west-
ward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and
a quarter miles, we arrived at the springs and halted
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 287
a while to rest our teams. We then proceeded on three-
quarters of a mile and began to ascend a long steep hill,
near the top of which and eight miles from Fort Bridger,
Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude
41 16' 11". Arriving on the top we found the table
tolerably level for several miles then began to descend to
the bottom again. The descent from this hill is the steep-
est and most difficult we have ever met with, being long
and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed
the Muddy Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and
formed our encampment on the west bank, having trav-
eled since the halt six and three-quarters miles and dur-
ing the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass
and a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has
been windy, warm and dusty.
SATURDAY, lOra. Started this morning at eight
o'clock, weather warm with tolerably high wind. After
traveling three and a half miles we passed a small cop-
peras spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left
of the road. The water is very clear but tastes very
strong of copperas and alum and has a somewhat singular
effect on the mouth. It runs a little distance over the red
sand which abounds in this region and where it is satur-
ated with water almost looks like blood at a little dis-
tance. After passing this spring the road winds around
the foot of mountains gradually ascending for some dis-
tance till finally arriving on the summit of a high ridge.
Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and
found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of the
sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and
a half miles from the last mentioned spring we found a
288 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
very steep, rough place to descend and found it neces-
sary to halt and fix the road. About half way down there
is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room
for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made
passable. A little farther, the brethren had to dig a place
considerably to make a pass between the mountains. Pres-
ident Young and Kimball labored hard with a number
of others and in about a half an hour made a good road.
At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another
spring and a little farther after arriving on the bottom
land, the road turns nearly south through a beautiful
low bottom filled with grass. At 1 :45 we halted for
noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41 14' 21".
After halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and
after traveling three and a half miles began to ascend
the dividing ridge between the Colorado waters and the
great basin. This mountain is very high and the ascent
steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to
gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to
Elder Pratt's observations. The surface at the top is
narrow. Here three bears were seen to run over a still
higher mountain on the left. The descent was very steep,
having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then de-
scend and travel on the bottom a few miles between high
rugged mountains till the road seems suddenly to be
shut up by a high mountain ahead. The road here turns
suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards then
winds again southwest. After ascending and descending
another high ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten
feet wide and at 7:45 formed our encampment on the
southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon nine
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 289
miles and during the clay eighteen over the most moun-
tainous course we have yet seen. After camping, Mr.
Miles Goodyear came into camp. He is the man who is
making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it is
yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now
within two miles of Bear River. His report of the val-
ley is more favorable than some we have heard but we
have an idea he is anxious to have us make a road to his
place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a
beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hun-
dred yards southwest from the camp. Water excellent.
SUNDAY, HTH. Morning fine with ice a quarter of
an inch thick on the water pails. Walked on the moun
tain east with President Young and Kimball, from
whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding val-
ley which is about ten miles wide. Abundance of tim-
ber on the mountains south and southwest and beyond
that plenty of snow. After having prayers, we again de-
scended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur
spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour
of sulphur and where it oozes from the rocks is per-
fectly black. The water in the creek shows sulphur
very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of the
brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south.
The substance which rises out of the ground resembles
tar and is very oily. Some have oiled their gun stocks
with it and oiled their shoes, others have gone to fill
their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well
to grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such
a great contrast of substances within so short a distance.
Here is pure water, sulphur, and oily tar within a mile of
20
290 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
each other, and matter of curiosity all around for the
contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little and
others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he
wishes us to take. They represent it as being bad enough,
but we are satisfied it leads too far out of our course to
be tempted to try it. There are some in camp who are
getting discouraged about the looks of the country but
thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have
no doubt of finding a place where the Saints can live
which is all we ought to ask or expect. It is evident the
country grows better as we proceed west, and vegetation
is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a meet-
ing was called to decide which of the two roads we shall
take from here. It was voted to take the right hand or
northern road, but the private feelings of all the twelve
were that the other would be better. But such matters
are left to the choice of the camp so that none may have
room to murmer at the twelve hereafter.
MONDAY, 12xH. Morning cloudy and cool. We
pursued our journey at 7 :15. At one and a quarter miles
rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on
both sides. One-half a mile farther crossed the Bear
River, a very rapid stream about six rods wide and two
feet deep, bottom full of large cobble stones, water clear,
banks lined with willows and a little timber, good grass,
many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty good.
About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over
another ridge and again descended into and traveled up a
beautiful narrow bottom covered with grass and fertile
but no timber. Four and three-quarters of a mile beyond
Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear cold
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 291
water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow
bottom near a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right,
having traveled nine and three-quarters miles. There is
scarcely any wagon track to be seen, only a few wagons
of Hasting's company having come this route; the bal-
ance went the other road and many of them perished
in the snow; it being late in the season and much time
was lost quarreling who would improve the roads, etc.
There is a creek of clear water close by, deep but scarcely
any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile
before we halted. After resting two hours the camp
moved on again, except President Young and Kimball's
wagons, who concluded to remain there today on account
of the President's sickness. After traveling one and a
half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high
mountain and a little farther crossed back again. A mile
farther, began to ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the
summit and steep descent. We then wound around be-
tween high hills till arriving again on a narrow rich bot-
tom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a
spring of very good cold water, and in fact, there are
many good springs all along the road. At six o'clock we
formed our encampment near a very small creek and
a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and
three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a
half. There is an abundance of grass here and the coun-
try appears to grow still richer as we proceed west, but
very mountainous. There are many antelope on these
mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute
of timber. About a quarter of a mile west from the camp
is a cave in the rock about thirty feet long, fifteen feet
292 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
wide and from four to six feet high. There are many
martins at the entrance and on observing closely, can be
seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from ap-
pearances that there is some property cached in the cave.
Soon after we camped, we had a light shower accom-
panied by thunder. This country evidently lacks rain,
even the grass appears parched.
TUESDAY, 13TH. Awhile before noon, Elder Kim-
ball and Howard Egan arrived from the company back.
A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thun-
der shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball pro-
posed that a company start from the camp with Elder
Pratt to proceed to the Weber River canyon and ascer-
tain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try
and find a pass over the mountains. He reported that
President Young is a little better this morning, but last
evening was insensible and raving. Colonel Rockwood
is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of
twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon af-
ter dinner, in company with Elder Pratt, and soon after,
Elders Kimball and Egan returned to the back company.
The day has been very hot and sultry, and mosquitoes are
very troublesome.
WEDNESDAY, HTH. The day has been very hot,
with occasionally a light breeze. Several of the brethren
have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope
which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Wood-
ruff and Barnabas Adams went back to the other wag-
ons this morning. They returned at night and reported
that President Young is considerably better, but Brother
Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two
WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL. 293
new cases of sickness in our camp, mostly with fever
which is very severe on the first attack, generally render-
ing its victims delirious for some hours, and then leaving
them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a
good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever.
The patient then needs some kind of stimulant to brace
his nerves and guard him against another attack. I am
satisfied that diluted spirits is good in this disease after
breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower. The
following is a list of the names of those who are gone on
to look out and make a road, etc., viz. : Orson Pratt, com-
mander of company, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding,
Stephen Markham, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert,
John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert Crow, Ben-
jamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter
Crow, George W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B.
Myers, John Brown, Shadrack Roundy, Hans C. Hanson,
Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar
Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Sumjme,
Green Flake, John S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman
Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton,
Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas, C. D.
Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newamn, Francis
Boggs, Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division:
seven wagons, fifteen men ; second division : sixteen
wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's family of
women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and
forty-two men.
THURSDAY, ISxn. Morning pleasant but cloudy. At
twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball and all the rear
wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much
294 WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL.
better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders
were given for this company to harness up, and during
the time till we started onward at half-past one we had
a very refreshing shower. After traveling two miles we
passed another spring of good water at the foot of a
high hill a little to the right of the road. At half-past
three we formed our encampment at the foot of some high
red bluffs, having traveled four and a half miles, and
enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good and
a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to
the left of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.
FRIDAY, 16rH. This morning we have had two pleas-
ant showers accompanied by pretty loud thunder. At
8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow
ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one
and a quarter miles passed a deep ravine, where most of
the teams had to double to get up. One-half mile farther,
crossed the creek and found the crossing place very bad.
Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The
wagon had to be unloaded, bu
