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WILLIAM   COTTON   OSWELL 


THE  NEW  YORK 
PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


a    :or.  lenox  and 
tildf:n  foundations 

R  L 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

Ibuutcr  an^  lEyplorer 

THE    STORY    OF    HIS    LIFE 

WITH  CERTAIN  CORRESPONDENCE  AND  EXTRACTS  FROM  THE  PRIVATE 
JOURNAL  OF  DAVID  LIVINGSTONE,  HITHERTO  UNPUBLISHED 

BY    HIS    ELDEST   SON 

W.     EDWARD     OSWELL 

OF    THK    MIUUI.F.   TEMPLE,    BARKISTER-AT-LA\V 

Mitb  an  JntroOuction 

BY 

FRANCIS     GALTON 

D.C.L.,    F  R.S.,    F.R.G.S.,    ETC. 

PORTRAITS,  MAPS,  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 

IN  TWO  VOLUMES 
VOL.   I 


NEW  YORK 
DOUBLEDAY,    PAGE    &    CO 
igoo 


-/^««1^ 


99S214A 


This  Edition  is  for  sale  in  ike 
United  States  of  America,  and  is 
not  to  be  imfiorted  into  countries 
signatory  to  the  Berne   Treaty 


1 


M 

V 


k 


\ 


DEDICATED 

TO    HER 

WHOM    HE    LOVED    BEST 

WHO  LOVES  HIM  BEST 

WHOM  I  LOVE  BEST 

MY   MOTHER 


PREFACE 


Immediately  after  my  father's  death  I  resolved  to  publish 
a  memoir  of  him,  and  with  this  object  collected  informa- 
tion from  numerous  sources,  and  collated  letters,  including 
many  hundreds  written  to  myself — a  large  proportion  of 
them  during  nine  or  ten  years  of  my  life  in  London. 
These  alone  would  have  made  a  volume  of  deep  interest 
to  anyone  who  knew  and  loved  him,  containing  as  they 
did  his  matured  views,  very  freely  expressed,  of  men 
and  things,  and  touching  on  an  extraordinary  variety  of 
subjects.  The  manuscript  was  well  advanced  when  it, 
and  the  materials  upon  which  it  was  founded,  were  totally 
destroyed  by  hre. 

At  first  it  appeared  impossible  to  recommence  the  task, 
but  the  unexpected  discovery  a  year  later  of  some  thou- 
sands of  old  letters  and  papers — the  fruits  mainly  of  the 
executorships  of  Mrs.  Oswell  and  her  brother,  Benjamin 
Cotton — and  the  kind  interest  and  encouragement  of 
friends,  induced  me  to  make  a  fresh  attempt.  More 
especially  I  was  influenced  by  one  for  whose  opinion, 
character,  and  judgment,  my  father,  in  common  with 
everyone  who  knows  him,  had  the  highest  respect  and 
admiration — I  refer  to  General  Fred  Cotton. 

'The  life-history,'  he  wrote,  'of  my  noble  friend — one 
of  the  most  really  noble  of  men — ought  to  be  recorded 
from  first  to  last.  No  better  man  could  have  been  found 
to  treat  of  his  characteristics  as  a  sportsman  and  explorer 


viii  PREFACE 

than  Sir  Samuel  Baker ;  but  there  is  a  younger  Hfe  and 
an  older  life,  both  full  of  fine  qualities,  that  ought  to  be  dealt 
with,  and  I  hope  with  all  my  heart  it  may ;  for  I  cannot 
fancy  any  volume  that  would  contain  better  instruction  as 
to  what  a  man  should  be  than  a  biography  in  detail  of 
him.' 

As  to  the  general  plan  and  contents  of  this  book,  the 
early  pages  sketch  the  family  and  surroundings  into  which 
William  Cotton  Oswell  was  born — the  foundation  of  '  the 
brave  and  blameless  life,'  as  Sir  Henry  Acland  calls  it. 

The  Rugby  days  under  Arnold,  in  the  Augustan  age  of 
Stanley,  Vaughan  and  Clough,  are  described  by  the  boy 
himself ;  while  his  schoolfellow,  Tom  Hughes,  supple- 
ments the  description  with  reminiscences  in  his  own 
inimitable  style,  and  tells  of  his  hero-worship  for  him. 

Of  the  seven  years  spent  in  India  in  the  Company's 
service,  after  he  had  passed  out  of  Haileybury  with  the 
highest  distinction,  the  hfelong  friendships  formed,  the 
hard  work,  the  sport,  the  study  of  the  peoples  amon-g 
whom  his  lot  was  cast,  their  religions  and  languages,  his 
letters  to  his  mother  speak. 

And  then  came,  by  accident,  as  it  seemed,  the  most 
stirring  period,  the  most  abiding  interest,  of  his  life.  In 
1844  a  succession  of  terrible  attacks  of  fever  had  brought 
him  to  death's  door,  and  he  was  ordered  to  the  Cape  as  a 
last  chance.  He  remained  in  Africa  two  years,  and  with 
Mr.  Murray  of  Lintrose  as  the  companion  of  one,  and 
Captain  Frank  Vardon  of  the  other,  penetrated  far  beyond 
the  utmost  limits  of  previous  geographical  knowledge, 
exploring,  hunting,  revelling  with  them  in  shooting  such 
as  no  men  ever  had  before  or  will  ever  have  again,  the 
first  Europeans  and  the  first  guns  among  the  myriads  of 
animals — a  very  empire  of  wild  sport. 

Meanwhile,  a  friendship  sprang  up  between  him  and 
Dr.  Livingstone  which  thenceforward  until  the  death  of 
the  great  missionary,  in  1873,  never  for  a  moment  wavered 
or  faltered.     The  correspondence  that  resulted  has  been 


PREFACE  IX 

freely  drawn  on,  and  will  no  doubt  be  read  with  the  atten- 
tion which  anything  concerning  that  remarkable  man 
deserves. 

In  1847  he  returned  to  India,  and  accepted  the  charge 
of  the  coopiim  organized  by  the  Government.  Of  this 
he  wrote  a  graphic  account,  which  is  here  included. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  year  he  revisited  England,  arriving 
just  in  time  to  bid  a  last  farewell  to  his  gentle  mother. 

The  concluding  months  of  1848  found  him  again  at  the 
Cape,  preparing  for  the  most  notable  and  arduous  of  all  his 
journeys,  the  first  of  which  exploration  was  the  sole  object. 
Starting  from  Graham's  Town  on  March  10,  1849,  he  was 
joined  by  Murray  on  April  23,  and  by  Livingstone  at  the 
beginning  of  June ;  and  by  the  end  of  July  he  had  led  an 
expedition  across  the  Kalahari,  and  discovered  the  River 
Zouga  and  Lake  Ngami.  The  story  of  the  journey,  sent  at 
the  time  to  his  family  and  Captain  Vardon,  is  fall  of  interest. 

The  next  season  he  devoted  entirely  to  hunting  over  the 
ground  traversed  in  the  previous  year.  Making  his  way 
to  the  Lake  first,  he  shot  down  both  banks  of  the  river 
with  extraordinary  and  unvarying  success. 

In  1851  he  enabled  Livingstone  and  his  family  again 
to  join  him  by  giving  them  a  wagon  and  supplies  ;  and 
pushing  northwards  to  the  country  of  Sebitoane,  they  met 
with  the  heartiest  welcome  and  most  courteous  considera- 
tion from  that  famous  chief. 

Having  obtained  permission  for  a  further  advance,  they 
shared  the  important  discovery  of  the  Zambesi  in  those 
regions.  The  exploration  of  the  course  of  that  river  to 
the  coast,  and  the  establishment  of  a  new  missionary 
station  at  a  convenient  spot  on  its  banks,  were  the  next 
objects  to  which  they  proposed  devoting  themselves ;  but 
his  fellow-traveller's  advice,  and  the  experience  of  the 
three  preceding  years,  had  determined  Livingstone  never 
again  to  expose  his  wife  and  young  children  to  the  perils 
and  hardships  necessarily  incident  on  boring  into  a  new 
country ;  and  as  it  was  too  late  in  the  season  for  useful 


X  PREFACE 

work,  and  Oswell  was  anxious  to  keep  a  promise  he  had 
given  to  visit  his  family  by  the  end  of  the  year,  it  was 
decided  that  the  whole  party  should  at  once  start  for  the 
Cape.  How  this  and  the  subsequent  voyage  was  made 
possible  for  the  Livingstones  by  their  devoted  friend,  the 
Doctor  himself  explains. 

When  Oswell  went  on  board  the  first  homeward-bound 
ship,  it  was  with  the  full  intention  of  returning  in  the 
course  of  a  few  months.  But  his  brother's  state  of  health 
detained  him  indefinitely,  and  thus,  to  his  never-ending 
regret,  his  African  career  came  to  an  end.  The  short 
history  of  it  is  collected  from  his  own  writings  and 
Dr.  Livingstone's  private  journal,  which  his  daughter, 
Mrs.  Bruce,  with  rare  kindness  and  generosity,  placed 
unreservedly  at  my  disposal  ;  while  Sir  Samuel  Baker 
with  unimpeachable  authority  confirms  the  story  of  the 
vast  numbers  in  which  the  game  was  found  in  those  days 
and  speaks  of  my  father's  methods  of  hunting,  and  of  the 
estimation  in  which  he  was  held  as  a  man  and  sportsman 
by  white  and  black  alike. 

After  his  brother's  death  he  went  to  Paris,  and  was 
summoned  thence  to  Constantinople  by  his  friend  Major 
Steele. 

In  1854  a-nd  1855  he  was  at  the  front  in  the  Crimea, 
volunteering  to  carry  secret  service  money  and  despatches 
for  Lord  Raglan,  and  assisting  the  overworked  surgeons 
on  the  field  and  in  the  hospitals. 

On  the  fall  of  Sebastopol  he  left  for  a  long  tour  in 
North  and  ScKuth  America  and  the  West  Indies,  meeting 
his  future  wife  on  the  voyage  out. 

In  i860  he  married,  and  the  remaining  thirty-three 
years  of  his  life  were  passed  quietly  in  a  country  village. 
He  was  much  occupied  in  1865  in  revising  the  MS.  and 
proofs  of  Livingstone's  work,  *  The  Zambesi  and  its 
Tributaries.'  In  1892  he  wrote  an  article  for  the  '  Bad- 
minton '  Series  on  the  '  Big  Game  of  South  Africa,'  to  which 
I  would  acknowledge  my  obligations,  and  in  1893  he  died. 


PREFACE  xi 

With  the  fullest  recognition  of  the  numberless  defects 
and  most  unskilful  workmanship  of  this  book,  on  which  I 
humbly  deprecate  the  strictures  of  critics,  I  nevertheless 
confidently  assert  that  no  one  could  have  laboured  more 
abundantly,  more  anxiously  or  more  lovingly  to  tell  the 
true,  unvarnished  tale  of  a  life — for  me  the  life  of  the 
noblest  gentleman  I  shall  ever  know.  I  have  resisted  the 
temptation  of  putting  a  construction  upon  facts  or  at- 
tributing motives.  Letters  have  been  allowed  to  speak 
for  themselves,  and  comment  has  been  made  only  where 
it  seemed  necessary  as  a  link  or  explanation.  My  father 
kept  no  diaries,  and  made  a  practice  of  destroying  all  his 
papers.  Save  with  his  wife  and  children,  he  had  no 
regular  correspondence ;  he  rarely  talked  of  what  he  had 
seen  and  done.  Even  in  competent  hands,  therefore,  his 
biography  would  have  been  a  difficult  undertaking. 

As  my  apology,  if  one  is  needed,  for  a  somewhat  unusual 
amount  of  purely  personal  detail,  I  would  cite  and  adopt 
an  extract  from  an  admirable  review  in  the  Daily  Chronicle  : 
'  There  is  not  a  page  which  does  not  bear  witness  to  his 
unwearying  and  unforgetting  kindness  to  mother,  wife, 
children,  and  household  pets — a  tenderness  expressed  with 
manly  and  unaffected  simplicity.  We  are  not  of  those 
who  hold  that  the  world  should  not  thus  be  admitted  into 
the  privacy  of  domestic  life.  The  world  can  only  gain, 
and  he  certainly  cannot  lose,  by  this  intimate  and  un- 
studied self-portrayal.' 

I  do  not  expect,  I  scarcely  venture  to  hope,  that  the 
public  will  care  to  read  about  a  man  who  for  the  last 
thirty  years  of  his  life  dwelt  so  entirely  among  the  un- 
trodden ways  that  his  very  name  must  be  unknown, 
except  to  the  few  who  have  heard  of  him  as  a  mighty 
hunter  and  a  pioneer  of  African  exploration  half  a  century 
ago.  But  the  story  will  give  pleasure  to  his  nearest  and 
dearest,  and  to  the  wide  circle  of  relations  and  friends  who 
respected,  admired,  and  loved  him. 

In  conclusion,  I  would  tender  my  thanks  to  my  father's 


xii  PREFACE 

old  friend  Mr.  Francis  Galton,  for  his  interesting  and 
graceful  Introduction  ;  to  Dr.  Scott  Keltic,  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  and  the  Rev.  Wardlaw  Thompson, 
of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  who  have  kindly  allowed 
me  access  to  their  records ;  and  to  all  who  have  aided  me 
with  information  and  material. 

To  Messrs.  Longman,  too,  I  am  particularly  indebted 
for  their  readily -accorded  permission  to  make  use  of 
the  illustrations  to  my  father's  article  on  '  Big  Game.' 
'  They  are,'  he  writes,  *  by  the  best  artist  of  wild  animal 
life  I  have  ever  known,  Joseph  Wolf.  After  describing 
the  scene,  I  stood  by  him  as  he  drew,  occasionally  offering 
a  suggestion  or  venturing  on  two  or  three  scrawling  lines 
of  my  own  ;  and  the  wonderful  talent  of  the  man  produced 
pictures  so  like  the  reality  in  all  essential  points  that  I 
marvel  still  at  his  power.' 

I  should  perhaps  add  that  I  have  not  attempted  to 
correct  or  render  uniform  the  spelling  of  African  and 
Indian  words,  but  have  purposely  left  them  as  originally 
written. 

W.  EDWARD  OSWELL. 


Hillside, 

Groombridge,  Kent, 

May  I,  1897. 


INTRODUCTION 

By  FRANCIS  GALTON,  D.C.L.,  F.R.S. 


Sixty  years  ago  the  interior  of  South  Africa  was  a  blank 
on  our  maps,  the  modern  knowledge  of  its  geography 
being  based  for  the  most  part  on  numerous  explorations 
made  since  that  date.  One  of  the  most  epoch-making  of 
them  was  that  which,  by  traversing  wastes  previously 
impassable  to  Europeans,  succeeded  in  connecting  the 
pastoral  uplands  over  which  great  game  had  been  hunted 
by  many  travellers,  with  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the 
equatorial  part  of  the  continent. 

This  notable  Expedition  was  made  by  a  party  of  three — 
Oswell,  Murray,  and  Livingstone.  Its  furtherance  re- 
quired wagons,  oxen,  stores,  and  a  capable  leader,  and 
these  desiderata  were  mainly  supplied  by  Oswell.  Living- 
stone was  at  that  time  comparatively  inexperienced,  while 
Oswell  had  spent  years  in  persistent  travel,  and  had 
become  the  most  dashing  hunter  and  successful  explorer 
of  his  time  in  South  Africa.  Murray  was  also  a  hunter, 
but  by  no  means  of  equal  experience.  The  idea  of  the 
desirability  of  such  an  Expedition  was  not  due  to  any  one 
of  the  three  alone :  it  was  in  the  air,  and  shared  by  many 
others,  but  its  achievement  was  due,  first  and  foremost,  to 


xiv  INTRODUCTION 

Oswell.  Murray  joined  Oswell  with  his  wagon.  Living- 
stone accompanied  them  as  a  guest,  most  welcome  on 
many  accounts,  and  not  least  for  his  familiar  knowledge 
of  the  language  of  the  native  races,  and  for  the  personal 
love  and  respect  with  which  he  was  regarded  by  many  of 
them.  Still,  the  Expedition  would  have  gone  all  the  same 
without  Livingstone,  while  Livingstone  could  not  have 
moved  without  the  assistance  of  Oswell  and  Murray, 
especially  of  the  former.  Yet,  notwithstanding  Oswell's 
eminent  services  to  geography,  notwithstanding  the  loyal 
attitude  of  Livingstone  towards  him,  and,  again,  notwith- 
standing the  attempts  of  many  of  his  friends  in  England 
to  induce  the  public  to  appreciate  him  as  he  deserved,  his 
work  soon  began  to  pass  into  oblivion.  The  chief  cause 
of  this  lay  in  his  invincible  laziness  as  a  writer,  which 
rendered  him  a  deplorably  bad  correspondent,  even  to 
his  nearest  relations,  who  craved  for  tidings,  and  whom 
he  dearly  loved.  His  dilatoriness  in  these  respects  was 
enforced  by  a  strange  shrinking  from  publicity,  and  from 
even  the  most  legitimate  forms  of  self-assertion  ;  and, 
again,  he  honestly  took  greater  pleasure  in  ministering  to 
the  reputation  of  Livingstone  than  to  his  own.  It  followed 
that  the  story  of  the  Expedition  was  first  learnt  through 
the  letters  of  Livingstone,  which  were  published  and 
widely  discussed  weeks  before  a  scrap  of  information 
reached  England  from  Oswell's  own  pen.  He  was  the 
despair  of  the  Geographical  Society,  whose  authorities,  as 
I  well  know,  did  what  they  could  to  induce  him  to  com- 
municate a  substantial  memoir  worthy  of  himself,  but  in 
vain.  He  was  then  placed  on  their  Council,  but  he  did 
not  seem  to  appreciate  the  honour,  and  rarely  cared  to 
attend   it.      So,    owing   to    his   persistent   abnegation,    it 


INTRODUCTION  xv 

naturally  followed  that  his  achievements  should  gradually 
pass  out  of  mind,  but  I  think  it  not  unlikely  that  in  later 
years  he  may  have  felt  some  regret  at  his  neglected  oppor- 
tunities. Murray,  the  third  member  of  the  travelling  party, 
of  whom  little  is  known  except  his  love  of  hunting,  was 
also  a  man  who  never  cared  to  write  ;  he  was  hardly  seen 
by  geographers,  and  fell  quite  out  of  touch  with  them.  I 
never  to  my  knowledge  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  him. 
Now  the  usual  desire  of  a  hero-worshipper  is  to  worship 
a  single  hero  at  a  time,  and  not  to  divide  his  homage  in 
perplexing  proportions  among  those  who  shared  in  the 
same  great  action.  Consequently,  as  the  years  w^ent  by, 
when  the  frequent  and  elaborate  descriptions  written  by 
Livingstone  of  what  he  saw  from  time  to  time,  together 
with  the  grave  missionary  purpose  of  the  man,  and  his 
unresting  progress,  monopolized  public  attention,  a  retro- 
spective credit  became  popularly  given  to  him  (which  he 
himself  never  claimed)  for  the  paramount  conduct  of  the 
first  great  journey  across  the  sandy  wastes  to  Lake  Ngami, 
which  was  the  beginning  of  his  heroic  career. 

It  is  gratifying  to  read  the  few  letters  and  memoranda 
of  Oswell,  and  the  other  contents  of  this  book.  They 
confirm  what  many  as  well  as  myself  well  knew  at  the 
time,  and  they  extend  that  knowledge.  Let  it  not  be 
supposed  for  a  moment  that  the  slightest  rivalry  existed 
between  Livingstone  and  Oswell;  on  the  contrary,  they 
were  the  warmest  friends,  though,  the  one  being  a  mis- 
sionary with  a  keenly  observant  eye  and  a  strong  scientific 
bent,  and  the  other  a  roving  hunter,  their  ideals  of  life 
must  have  differed  in  many  ways.  Touching  evidences  of 
their  mutual  esteem  are  to  be  found  in  many  pages  of  these 
volumes. 


xvi  INTRODUCTION 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  gain  the  friendship  of  Oswell 
after  his  final  return  from  Africa,  when  I  quickly  appre- 
ciated the  remarkable  nobleness  of  his  character.  I  was 
at  that  time  closely  and  eagerly  connected  with  the 
Geographical  Society,  so  that  I  was  brought  into  frequent 
contact  with  every  contemporary  traveller  of  note.  Among 
these  Oswell,  with  his  clear-cut,  aquiline  features,  keen 
glance,  and  lithe  frame,  suggested  perhaps  the  most 
typical  specimen  of  a  man  born  to  adventure.  His 
striking  physical  gifts,  combined  with  his  aristocratic 
bearing  and  winning  but  modest  address,  seemed  a  living 
realization  of  the  perfect  and  gentle  knight  of  whom  we 
read  in  old  romances. 


As  my  name  occurs  two  or  three  times  in  the  letters  in 
connection  with  Lake  Ngami,  I  may  mention  that  I  never 
went  there,  because  on  arrival  at  the  Cape  I  was  assured  by 
the  Governor,  Sir  Harry  Smith,  that  the  Boers  had  barred 
the  passage  to  travellers.  I  therefore  changed  my  destina- 
tion and  went  to  Damara  Land  instead. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.   I. 

CHAPTER  I. 

PARENTAGE     AND      BIRTH. 
1745 1832.       AGE    I 14. 

PAGE 

Captain  Joseph  Cotton,  his  wife  and  family — A  first  ball 
and  a  proposal — Miss  Amelia  Cotton  and  William 
Oswell — A  husband's  love-letters  to  his  wife  ninety 
years  ago — '  The  Gentleman  in  the  black  Gown  ' — 
Birth  of  William  Cotton  Oswell — Funeral  of  Queen 
Caroline — A  last  Will  and  Testament — L'art  d'etre 
heau-peve — A  son  of  consolation — Death  of  William 
Oswell — His  widow's  diary  and  correspondence — Sir 
Charles  Grandison — A  profession  of  faith — A  '  Dutiful 
and  Affectionate '  child — The  Rev.  Thomas  Bowdler's 
opinion  of  Mrs.  Oswell — Death  of  her  four  little 
daughters  —  She  sets  up  house  with  her  brother 
Benjamin — A  goodly  heritage    -         -         -         .  i — ^2 

CHAPTER  H. 

EDUCATION  :    RUGBY    AND    HAILEYBURY. 
1832 1837.       AGE     14 — 19. 

Rugby  in  1833 — Dr.  Arnold  a  great  reformer:  'Lord 
Paramount  of  the  whole  concern  ' — William  Cotton 
Oswell    entered   on   the    boards — Half-holidays   and 

b 


xviii  CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  I. 

PAGE 

'  wiskers '  —  Aptitude  for  classical  versification  — 
'  Monstrous  'cute  '  Vaughan — Pride  in  Dr.  Arnold — 
*  Signs  and  Symbols  ' — Escapes  expulsion :  Boughton 
Leigh  dispute  —  Judge  Hughes'  reminiscences  — 
Leaves  Rugby — ^ Discussion  as  to  profession— Tour 
through  England  —  Acceptance  of  writership, 
H.E.LC.S. — Dr.  Arnold's  testimonials — Haileybury 
— Passes  out  brilliantly — An  unselfish  mother     -     43 — 6g 

CHAPTER  HL 

INDIA. 
1837 — 1844.   AGE  19 — 26. 

Intelligent  interest  in  new  surroundings  — Medical  studies 
— Brahman  village — Granite  carvings — A  moonlight 
festival — South  Arcot  :  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ashton  and 
Brooke  Cunliffe— '  The  heau-idcal  of  a  civilian  '■ — Two 
feats  of  arms — A  typical  Indian  day — Pig-sticking — 
The  straits  of  £6^0  income — A  bachelor's  den — Bison- 
stalking  at  Cuddalore — A  cousin's  testimonial — As- 
sessment of  Shevaroy  Hills — '  Doing  Adam  ' — The 
Gates  of  Somnauth — A  bear-hunt — '  The  workings  of 
an  anxious  old  mother  ' — Hill  and  low-country  tigers 
— The  Todas — The  Purdey  gun — Fever — Ordered  to 
Cape — 'I  love  a  hill' — Picturesque  sport — Indian 
gipsies — Lord  Ellenborough  as  Governor-General   70 — 99 

CHAPTER  IV. 

AFRICA. 

1844 — 1846.       AGE    26 — 28. 

FIRST  EXPEDITION  (WITH  MURRAY)  TO  BA-KAA  HILLS- 
RETURN  BY  LIMPOPO. 

Arrival  at  Cape  Town — '  I  should  have  made  a  capital 
traveller  ' — Opening  of  Royal  Exchange — '  Life  of 
Arnold ' — O'Connell— '  Lardner's  Cyclopaedia' — Start 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  I. 


I'AGE 


for  the  Interior — Dreary  scenery— Kuruman,  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Moffat— Motito,  M.  Lemire— The 
first  lion— The  Ba-Katla— Meeting  with  Livingstone, 
'  the  most  modest  of  the  missionaries  ' — Magnificent 
sport  —  Ride  on  a  lioness — Bushmen  himters — A 
Kafir  nickname— Horse  killed  by  a  buffalo— Saved  by 
his  muscles— An  immense  herd  of  buffaloes— John— 
The  Ba-Wangketsi— Lost  in  the  Bush  ;  treed  by 
lions — A  surly  reception  by  the  Ba-Mangwato — 
Diamond  cut  diamond — The  Ba-Kaa — 600  starving 
camp-followers — 60,000  lbs.  of  meat  in  one  day — 
Return  to  the  Cape 100 132 

CHAPTER  V. 

AFRICA. 

1846 — 1847.       AGE    28 — 29. 

SECOND  EXPEDITION  [WITH  CAPTAIN  FRANK  VARDON)- 

EXPLORATION  OF  COURSE  OF  LIMPOPO,  AND 

DISCOVERY  OF  RIVER  MOKOLWE. 

Gunpowder  permit — Six  weeks'  sport  on  Marique  River — 
An  elephant-hunt  of  twenty-three  hours — Captain 
Frank  Vardon,  '  the  most  perfect  fellow-traveller  ' — 
Enormous  herds  of  buffaloes  and  elephants — '  That 
must  be  a  lie  ' — A  liberal  proposal— Tsetse  fly  :  post- 
mortein  appearance  of  victims — Rhinostev  Oswellii — 
White  rhinoceros  tosses  Oswell  and  his  horse— A 
gallant  vengeance — Oswell  tossed  by  a  keitloa — 
Return  to  India 133 — 145 

CHAPTER  VI. 

INDIA       AND      ENGLAND. 
1847 1848.       AGE    29 30. 

Oswell's  plans  for  the  future — Livingstone  writes  from 
Kuruman  :  the  course  of  the  Limpopo  ;  twenty  years 

b  2 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  I. 

TAtiE 

— Oswell  replies  to  Sir  Harry  Smith's  despatch — His 
testimony  to  Mrs.  Livingstone  ;  '  David,  put  it  out ' 
• — Letter  from  Vardon  :  Gordon  Cumming's  exhibi- 
tion ;  leche  skin  sent  to  British  Museum ;  '  a  fearful 
extinguisher  on  Mr.  Parker ' — Oswell's  sketch-map 
and  notes  of  country  traversed — He  orders  outfit  for 
Livingstone  family — '  The  best  friend  we  had  in 
Africa ' — His  brother  advises  him  to  claim  share  of 
credit  of  expedition — Livingstone's  gratitude — John 
accompanies  his  master  to  England  -         -         -  229 — 267 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS  IN  VOL.  I. 


PAGE 

WILLIAM    COTTON    OSWELL    MTAT  }f1  -  -        Fwiltispiece 

CAPTAIN    COTTON      ------  2 

MRS.    COTTON             -                  -                  -                  -                  -                  -  3 

WILLIAM    OSWELL    ------  5 

MRS.    OSWELL    AND    W.    COTTON     OSWELL    AT    THE    AGE    OF 

THREE                   -                   -                   -                   -                   -                   -  16 

DR.    ARNOLD  ..... 

DR.  Arnold's  house,  rugby    -     -     -     -   46 

THE    playing    fields,    RUGBY  -  -  -  .  ^5 

'  A    MOST    COMPLETE    INDIAN    SCENE  ' 

WILLIAM    ASHTON    -  -  -  -  '  7^ 

'THREW     HIM     DOWN     INTO     THE      PADDY-FIELD     WITH      A 

TREMENDOUS    SPLASH  '  -  -  -  . 

'  STIRRED    UP  WITH  A  STICK  THROUGH  THE  CHINKS  OF  THE 

STONES  '--.... 
'PROPPED    UP    IN    HIS    BED    AT    THE    DOOR    OF    HIS    TENT  '  -  g6 

'STRADDLED    OVER    HER    BACK  AND    HIT    HER  WITH    A   HOE  '       IIO 
'THE     WOUNDED     BEAST     SPRANG     UP     AND      STRUCK      HIM 

heavily'  -  -  -  -  -  -       III 

HORNS    OF    THE    BUFFALO    THAT    KILLED    SUPERIOR  -       113 

'I    .    .    .    CAUGHT  A  PROJECTING  BOUGH    .    .    .    AND  DRAWING 

MY    KNEES    UP    ...    HE    PASSED    BELOW    ME  '  -  -       II5 

'  I     HAD    REACHED    THE     LOWEST    BOUGH    .    .    .    WHEN    .    .    . 

A     DEEP     NOTE     .     .     .     TOLD     ME     THAT     A     LION     WAS 

passing'  ...... 

'the    baulked    roar    of    a    disappointed    lion    rang 

THROUGH    THE    CAMP '  .... 

'A    MAN    COMING    ON    AT    THE    TOP    OF    HIS    SPEED' 
'THE    POOL  WAS    ALIVE  WITH    MONSTROUS    HIPPOPOTAMI'-       I3I 
CAPTAIN    FRANK    VARDON      .....        13^ 
TSETSE    FLY    (HIGHLY    MAGNIFIED)  -  -  -       137 

HORN    OF    QUEBAABA  -  .  .  -  .       138 

'  DROVE  ITS   HORN   IN   UNDER  THE  FLANK,  THROWING  HORSE 

AND    RIDER    INTO    THE    AIR  '      ....       135 


44 
46 

56 

73 
76 

77 
90 


iig 

123 
127 


xxiv  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

HORN    OF    THE    RHINOCEROS    THAT    KILLED    STALL  -       I4I 

'FIRED    BOTH    BARRELS;     BUT    WITH    THE    SMOKE    HE    WAS 

SAILING    THROUGH    THE    AIR  '  -  -  -       143 

HORN    OF    SPECIES    OF    RHINOCEROS  THAT    TOSSED    OSWELL       I45 
'  THE    MAHOUT   PASSES   THE    CANE    .    .    .    ROUND  THE    HIND- 
LEGS     OF     THE     CAPTIVE     .     .     .     ONE     OR     TWO     TAME 
ELEPHANTS  PATROLLING  MEANWHILE  BETWEEN  IT  AND 
THE    WILD    HERD  '  -  -  -  -  -       I55 

'  that's    a    BAD    FELLOW,    LACHME WHIP    HIM  '      -  -       159 

'AN  EXCELLENTjHARD-WORKING  woodcutter's  assistant'       162 
*  passing     between     MY     OUTSTRETCHED     LEGS     ...     HE 

DROPPED    WITH    A    BALL    THROUGH    HIS    HEAD  '  -       167 

DURBAN    IN    1899    ------       177 

PIETERMARITZBURG    IN    1899  -  -  -  -       179 

'  A   MAGNIFICENT    SHEET    OF  WATER    .    .    .    GLADDENED    OUR 

EYES  '  ..--.-       187 

head  of  leche    ------     206 

'  what  you  eat,  i  can  eat  ;  where  you  sleep,  i  can 

sleep  ;   where  you  go,  i  will  go  '  -  -     209 

head  of  gemsbok  ...  -  -     216 

'though  alligator  is  very  partial  to  dog,  dog  is  not 

so  partial  to  alligator'   -  -  -  -     217 

horns  and  hoof  of  nakong       -  -  -  -     220 

'  depositing  me  in  a  sitting  position  immediately  in 

front  of  the  uplifted  forefoot  of  the  charging 

bull'  ...---     225 

'  DROVE     HER     FRONT     CLAWS     WELL     INTO     THE     HORSE's 

quarters '      -  -  -  -  -  -     233 

'  recounted   .    .    .    his  wars,  escapes,  successes  and 

conquests'    ------     243 

'we  .  .  .  thanked  god  for  permitting  us  first  to  see 

this  glorious  river  '  ...  -     249 

SKETCH-MAPS 

ROUTE  IN  1845      -----  To  face  p.  io8 

ROUTE  IN  1846  -  -  -  -  -  ,,  150 
ROUTE  IN  1849  -  -  -  -  -  ,,  202 
ROUTE  IN  185I    -        -        -        -        -     ,,     262 


MAPS 


SOUTH    AFRICA    IN 


^^45  1  End  of  the 


SOUTH     AFRICA     IN     I9OO,     SHOWING     MR.     OSWELL  S    -      volujnc 


ROUTES    IN    HIS    FIVE    EXPEDITIONS 


J 


WILLIAM    COTTON    OSWELL 

CHAPTER  I. 

PARENTAGE     AND     BIRTH, 

I745-1832.       AGE    I-I4. 

Captain  Joseph  Cotton,  his  wife  and  family — A  first  ball  and 
a  proposal — Miss  AmeHa  Cotton  and  William  Oswell — A 
husband's  love-letters  to  his  wife  ninety  years  ago — 
'  The  Gentleman  in  the  black  Gown ' — Birth  of  William 
Cotton  Oswell — Funeral  of  Queen  Caroline — A  last  Will 
and  Testament — Uart  d'etre  heaii-peve — A  son  of  consola- 
tion— Death  of  William  Oswell — His  widow's  diary  and 
correspondence — Sir  Charles  Grandison — A  profession  of 
faith  —  A  'Dutiful  and  Affectionate'  child  —  The  Rev. 
Thomas  Bowdler's  opinion  of  Mrs,  Oswell — Death  of  her 
four  little  daughters — She  sets  up  house  with  her  brother 
Benjamin — -A  goodly  heritage. 

Joseph  Cotton,  the  maternal  grandfather  of  William 
Cotton  Oswell,  was  the  son  of  Nathaniel  Cotton,  M,D, 
(to  whose  charge  the  poet  Cowper  was  confided  during  his 
insanity),  and  of  his  wife  Anne  Pembroke.  He  was  born 
March  7,  1745,  entered  the  navy  in  1760,  quitted  it  after 
passing  his  lieutenant's  examination,  and,  beginning  as 
fourth  mate  in  the  Mercantile  Marine  of  the  Honourable 
East  India  Company,  worked  his  way  up,  and  was 
appointed  Captain  of  the  Royal  Charlotte.  A  man  of  dis- 
tinguished ability  and  probity,  and  possessing  extraordinary 
commercial  acumen,  on  retiring  from  his  profession  and 
VOL.    I.  I 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


settling  at  Leytonstone,  in  Essex,  his  services  were  eagerly 
sought  by  many  of  the  famous  companies  of  the  day.  He 
became  a  director  of  the  London  Assurance  Company, 
chairman  of  the  Copper  Company,  and  of  the  East  India 
Dock  Company,  and  Deputy  Master  of  the  Trinity 
House,  of  which  he  wrote  an  interesting  and  complete 
memoir.   On  January  28,  1779,  he  married  Sarah,  daughter 

of  his  neighbour  and 
friend,  John  Harrison, 
by  his  wife  Charlotte 
Branfill.  Mr.  Harrison 
was  a  director  of  the 
Bank  of  England,  and 
later  associated  with  him 
on  the  Board  of  the  East 
India  Dock  Company. 
Of  Captain  and  Mrs. 
Cotton's  family  of  ten 
children,  six  only  appear 
in  these  pages :  John, 
born  October  10,  1783, 
who,  after  long  residence 
in  China  and  India,  was 
appointed  a  member  of 
the  Court  of  Directors 
of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany ;  William,  born 
September  12,  1786,  who 
was  elected  Governor  of 
the  Bank  of  England  ;  Phebe,  born  October  22,  1787, 
who  married  the  Rev.  Thomas  Bowdler ;  Amelia,  born 
January  13,  1789,  the  mother  of  William  Cotton  Oswell ; 
Benjamin,  born  February  10,  1794 ;  and  Louisa  Decima, 
born  September  6,  1795. 

On  January  22,  1807,  Amelia  went  to  her  first  ball. 
Next  morning,  when  she  came  down  to  breakfast,  she 
found  a  letter  awaiting:  her  : 


CAPTAIN    COTTON. 
From  a  Portrait  by  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence,  P.R.A, 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH 


'  It  is  with  an  anxious,  trembling  eagerness  that  I  take 
up  my  pen,  but  oh !  with  what  language  shall  I  address 
my  dear  Miss  Cotton  to  acquaint  her  with  the  sentiments 
of  a  heart  which  is  entirely  at  her  disposal.  .  .  .  My 
dear  Miss  Cotton  will  not  be  alarmed,  and  I  hope  not 
much  surprized  at  the  receipt  of  such  a  letter  as  this, 
though  from  one  to  whom  she  is  not  immediately  known. 
She  need  not  be  sur- 
prized when  I  tell  her 
that  from  the  first  mo- 
ment I  had  the  happiness 
to  see  her,  which  was  in 
September  last,  when  I 
was  not  even  acquainted 
with  her  name,  she  made 
an  impression  which  I 
fondly  hope  to  cherish 
and  cultivate  as  long  as 
life  shall  last.  It  was  at 
Church,  and  I  am  not 
ashamed  to  confess  that 
the  dignified  and  reve- 
rential deportment  of 
Mr.  Cotton,  and  the 
unaffected  piety,  sweet- 
ness, and  good-humour 
which  seemed  to  pervade 
the  whole  family,  at  once 
interested  my  attention 

and  excited  my  curiosity.  I  followed  therefore  the 
natural  dictates  of  my  feelings  when  all  I  heard  and 
all  I  saw  only  tended  to  strengthen  and  improve  the 
opinion  I  had  formed  for  myself.  Can  you  wonder 
then  that  I  should  catch  the  general  contagion  and 
so  much  revere  a  family  which  the  more  it  is  known, 
the  more  must  it  be  admired.  And  can  my  dear  Miss 
Cotton  be  angry  if  I  felt  an  inclination  to  be  allied  to  such 

I — 2 


MRS.    COTTON. 


From  a  Portrait  by  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence   P.R.A. 


4  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

a  family,  when  I  am  not  only  charmed  by  your  person, 
but  convinced  by  your  conduct  that  you  are  one  of  the 
most  amiable  of  women  ?  .  .  .  After  my  self-introduction 
to  Miss  Cotton  in  the  Ballroom  last  night,  you  will  perhaps 
think  my  conduct  there  with  regard  to  yourself  rather  at 
variance  with  my  professions.  I  hope  however  it  will 
admit  of  a  very  different  construction.  I  had  no  one  to 
introduce  me,  and  I  could  not  for  the  world  have  obtruded 
myself  on  your  notice  without  an  introduction.  Had  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  dancing  with  you  it  might  certainly 
have  given  yon  a  fairer  opportunity  of  deciding,  but  for 
myself  I  confess  my  sentiments  I  am  sure  will  never 
alter.  It  is  not  merely  that  countenance  whereon  are  so 
charmingly  painted  complacency,  good  sense,  Innocence, 
honour  and  truth,  that  I  admire  ;  but  it  is  that  retired 
delicacy,  that  unobtrusive  modesty  and  sweetness  of 
behaviour  which  captivate  my  heart,  and  which  can 
never  fail  of  commanding  respect  even  from  the  most 
abandoned.  But  you  may  naturally  be  allowed  to  ask 
what  are  my  claims,  what  my  pretensions,  to  so  great 
a  treasure.  Alas  !  I  feel  my  deficiencies  and  my  un- 
worthiness,  and  thus  conscious  of  them,  it  is  some  comfort 
to  consider  that  the  natural  effects  of  Love  is  to  create  in 
the  admirer  some  similitude  of  the  object  admired.  As  to 
my  fortune  and  prospects,  the  enclosed  letter  to  Mr. 
Cotton  (which  I  must  leave  to  your  decision  to  deliver  or 
not)  will  explain  them.  I  wish  to  do  nothing  without 
your  privity  and  approbation,  nor  do  I  wish  my  Dear 
Miss  Cotton  to  determine  without  reposing  upon  the 
judgment  of  an  affectionate  Father,  or  till  Mr.  Cotton  is 
perfectly  satisfied  and  informed  of  everything  relating  to 
me.  ...  Oh  !  could  I  but  flatter  myself  that  I  should 
have  the  honour  and  happiness  of  passing  the  remainder 
of  my  life  in  a  uniform  and  constant  endeavour  to  promote 
your  happiness,  and  evince  my  gratitude  !  But  after  all 
Miss  Cotton  is  the  mistress  of  her  own  affections,  nor 
would  I  pretend  to  controul  them.    Should  this  application 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  5 

(which  Heaven  avert  !)  meet  with  a  rejection,  it  would 
become  me  to  be  resigned,  in  the  hope  that  Miss  Cotton 
may  hereafter  meet  with  some  more  deserving  object  of  her 
regard  than  him  who,  notwithstanding,  will  never  cease  to 
pray  for  her  happiness,  and  would  deem  it  the  sweetest 
distinction  of  his  life  to  be  allowed  to  subscribe  himself  as 
he  is  in  truth 

*  Her  most  affectionate  friend 

'  And  most  obliged  and  obedient  Servant 

'  Wm.  Oswell.' 


William  Oswell  was  the  son  of  William  Oswell  of 
Shrewsbury,  who  traced  his  descent  in  a  direct  line  from 
St.  Oswel,  Oswal,  or  Oswald,  King 
of  Northumbria,  and  pointed  to 
an  ancestor  on  the  roll  of  knights 
who  fought  round  Harold  at 
the  Battle  of  Hastings.  He 
had  towards  the  end  of  1806 
taken  a  house  at  Leytonstone  as 
being  conveniently  distant  from 
London,  whither  his  business, 
that  of  a  Russian  merchant, 
called  him  daily.  A  reply  to  his 
letters  was  despatched  by  Captain 
Cotton  without  an  hour's  delay : 


*  Dear  Sir, 


WILLIAM    OSWELL 

(father  of  w.  c.  oswell). 

From  a  Miniature. 


'  Your  letter  addressed  to 
my  Daughter  and  its  Enclosure,  she  put  into  her  Mother's 
hands  observing  that  you  was  so  totally  unknown  to  her, 
it  was  impossible  to  commit  herself  to  pay  attention  to 
what  it  containd  which  could  only  be  sanctiond  by  previous 
acquaintance.  The  respectful  Tendency  of  both  Com- 
munications and  the  Candour  you  have  manifested  in 
respect  to  your  Situation  in  Life,  I  cannot  but  be  sensible 
of,  but  at  the  same  Time  concur  in  my  Daughter's  Sentiment 


6  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

that  untill  a  better  acquaintance  Existed,  the  proposition 
to  her  should  have  been  withheld.  The  Subject  is  to  both 
of  the  first  Importance  and  should  be  founded  on  mutual 
Regard  and  Esteem,  the  Result  of  frequent  Intercourse. 
A  precipitate  Engagement  on  your  part,  or  Encourage- 
ment on  hers,  might  otherwise  prove  a  Source  of  Em- 
barrassment and  Unhappiness.  I  regret  therefore  this 
premature  proposition  to  her,  which  cannot  be  decided 
as  you  wish  ;  and  her  age  is  also  a  bar  to  any  early 
Engagement.  Tho'  I  feel  persuaded  of  your  honourable 
Motives  and  of  the  Compliment  to  my  Family,  I  feel  also 
the  Justness  of  her  Conclusions  too  forcibly  to  encourage 
any  Expectation  of  a  speedy  Decision  when  so  much  is 
at  stake.  Your  better  judgment  must  approve  of  this 
Reserve,  nor  can  the  Respectability  of  your  Character  be 
in  any  way  affected  by  my  Daughter's  present  Determina- 

'  I  am.  Dear  Sir 

'  Your  very  Sincere,  Hble.  Servt. 

'Joseph  Cotton.' 

In  spite  of  the  father's  cautious  periods,  and  the  praise- 
worthy sentiments  he  reports  his  daughter  to  have  ex- 
pressed, we  cannot  but  read  between  the  lines  that  '  my 
dear  Miss  Cotton '  was  certainly  not  '  alarmed  '  or  even 
*  much  surprized '  at  the  receipt  of  such  a  letter.  That 
self-introduction  in  the  ball-room  had  evidently  prepared 
her  for  some  further  development. 

The  enclosure  had  given  '  all  references  and  particulars 
I  can  with  respect  to  my  property  and  prospects.  My 
fortune  amounts  to  ;£'i,40o  a  year,'  and  William  Oswell 
did  not  long  remain  '  so  totally  unknown '  to  his  lady-love. 
Early  in  February  they  became  engaged,  and  from  then 
until  the  marriage  there  were  frequent  meetings,  and  daily 
letters  from  him,  quaintly  formal,  indeed,  but  instinct  one 
and  all  with  the  deep,  grateful  devotion  which  thence- 
forward continued,  without  one  break  or  one  cloud,  to  the 
day  of  his  death  : 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  7 

'  March  23,  1807. 

'  Since  I  had  the  happiness  of  my  dear  Miss  Cotton's 
acquaintance  I  cannot  call  to  mind  a  single  circumstance 
in  her  conduct  which  has  not  directly  tended  to  increase 
my  admiration  and  regard.  I  feel  her  sentiments  with 
respect  to  myself  must  on  many  occasions  have  been  of 
a  very  different  description.  But  I  am  content  to  be  on 
the  obliged  side,  and  shall  ever  deem  it  my  greatest 
happiness  to  feel  myself  her  Debtor  till  the  last  day  of 
my  existence.  ...  I  assure  her  that  I  am,  with  the 
most  delicate  attachment  that  ever  entered  the  heart 
of  man, 

'  Her  affectionate  admirer 

and 
'  Sincere  Friend  and  Servant 

'  Wm.  Oswell.' 

A  month  or  two  later  matters  had  advanced  so  far  that 
the  lover  allowed  himself  to  call  his  mistress  by  her 
Christian  name  : 

'May,  1807. 

'  I  have  nothing  new  to  tell  my  Dearest  Emily  and  yet 
I  cannot  refrain  from  scribbling  these  few  lines.  I  am 
just  setting  off  for  town  and  fear  there  is  a  probability  of 
my  not  being  able  to  see  you  to-day.  .  .  .  Believe  me 
Emily  I  love  and  esteem  you  if  possible  more  than  ever. 
I  will  not  say  that  at  Vauxhall  the  other  evening  I  made 
it  my  business  inquisitively  to  observe  the  multitude  round 
me  in  order  to  be  dissatisfied  with  Emily,  but  I  must  say 
that  after  the  most  particular  observation,  I  did  not  see  a 
single  individual  that  looked  so  good  or  so  handsome. 
This  is  no  flattery  my  love  and  you  know  I  am  not  m.uch 
addicted  to  compliments.  Indeed,  Indeed  I  every  day 
see  more  occasion  to  be  thankful  to  that  Providence 
which  has  in  a  wonderful  manner  conducted  me  to  so 


8  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

great  a  Treasure  and  as  often  before  observed  I  hope 
to  make  it  the  business  of  my  hfe  to  express  my  gratitude 
to  my  dearest  Emily  by  that  tenderness  and  attention 
which  she  so  eminently  deserves.  I  only  hope  it  will  not 
now  be  long  before  Emily  condescends  to  make  me  the 
guardian  of  her  happiness  and  comfort.  The  first  or 
second  week  in  August  will  not  surely  be  too  soon  ? 
Bless  me  if  you  think  I  deserve  it  with  a  gracious  answer, 
and  through  all  the  changes  and  chances  of  life  believe 
that  I  shall  ever  remain  my  Emily's  most  affectionate  and 
obliged  Friend 

'  Wm.  Oswell.' 

The  wedding  took  place  on  August  20,  1807.  The 
bride  was  only  eighteen  years  old.  She  was  tall  and 
slight ;  her  complexion  was  clear  and  glowing ;  her  hair 
curly  and  brown ;  her  eyes  and  eyebrows  dark ;  her  nose 
a  delicate  aquiline,  which  in  later  years  became  somewhat 
pronounced,  without,  however,  detracting  from  the  extreme 
gentleness  of  her  expression.  She  is  described  by  all  who 
knew  her  as  a  beautiful  and  radiant  young  creature,  but 
there  is  unfortunately  no  satisfactory  likeness  of  her  extant. 
The  bridegroom  inherited  the  good  looks  of  a  handsome 
family.  Clean-shaven  and  black -haired,  his  eyebrows 
were  strongly  marked ;  his  eyes  large  and  blue ;  his 
features  regular  ;  his  face  pale  and  refined. 

The  honeymoon  over,  they  had  no  difficulty  in  deciding 
to  remain  at  Leytonstone.  Her  affectionate  disposition 
naturally  inclined  her  to  dwell  among  her  own  people  ; 
and  to  him,  after  the  somewhat  lonely  life  he  had  passed 
(he  had  only  one  near  relation,  his  brother,  the  Rev. 
Thomas  Oswell,  of  Shrewsbury)  the  constant  intercourse 
with  her  large  family,  who  accepted  and  welcomed  him  as 
one  of  themselves,  was  an  unfailing  source  of  happiness. 
On  the  other  hand,  she  and  her  brother-in-law  became 
fast  friends,  and  he  made  her  house  his  home  whenever 
he  journeyed   South.     In  April,   1809,  he  had  a  sudden 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH 


attack  of  illness,  and  William  Oswell  posted*  across 
England  to  see  him.  During  his  absence  he  wrote  daily 
to  his  wife : 

^  April  20,  i8og. 
'  My  Dearest  Love, 

'  .  ,  .  My  principal  object  in  writing  is  to  convey  to 
you  several  kisses  which  I  received  on  your  account  this 
morning.  Their  being  presented  through  my  medium 
will  not  I  hope  render  them  the  less  acceptable,  and  if  I 
venture  to  enclose  for  you  a  few  hundreds  of  my  own,  pray 
do  not  frown  and  send  them  back.  Ems,  for  you  are  very 
welcome  to  them  all.  Indeed,  my  dear  Wife,  raillery 
apart,  I  begin  to  think  it  a  very  long  and  tedious  time 
since  we  parted.  My  sleeping  and  my  waking  thoughts 
are  full  of  the  dear  image  I  so  much  admire  and  so  de- 
servedly esteem.  ...  A  separation  from  the  object  of 
my  fondest  affection  is  what  I  can  no  longer  bear ;  it  is 
like  the  dividing  asunder  of  soul  and  body,  or  the  amputa- 
tion of  a  favourite  member.  I  am  absolutely  lost,  and 
seem  a  Wanderer  without  your  fostering  care  and  kind 
attentions,  though  at  the  same  time  I  feel  I  very  little 
deserve  them.  .  .   .     To-day  I  determined  on  a  journey 

*  Amongst  his  papers  there  is  the  following  note  : 
London  to  Shrewsbury,  April,  1809. 


Horses  and  driver  to  Uxbridge 

•  ■     £'^  14 

0 

High  Wycombe 

I     I 

6 

Oxford 

0  17 

6 

Woodstock 

0  12 

0 

Chapelhouse 

0  16 

0 

Shipston 

0  15 

0 

Stratford 

0  16 

0 

Hockley 

0  17 

6 

Birmingham 

0  14 

6 

Hampton 

10 

0 

Shifnal 

■  0  17 

6 

Heygate 

0  12 

0 

Shrewsbury 

0  15 

0 

Turnpikes... 

0  16 

8 

£u   3   2 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  the  third-class  fare  to-day  from 
London  to  Shrewsbury  is  thirteen  shillings. 


lo  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

to  Westbury,  so  mounting  my  Brother's  horse  at  about 
10  o/c,  I  accomphshed  the  undertaking.  ...  I  could 
not  help  remarking  with  some  degree  of  emphasis  and 
feeling,  that  my  steed  was  rather  rough  or  that  I  was  not 
very  tough.  .  .  .  Westbury  looked  very  well,  much  im- 
proved by  the  gravel,  painting  and  planting,  and  most  of 
all  adorned  by  the  presence  of  the  dear  little  happy 
inmates.  Maryanne  is  really  grown  to  a  very  interesting 
and  Elegant  little  girl.  Her  complexion,  shape  and  eyes 
beautiful.  As  for  little  William  he  is  twice  the  size  he 
was  at  the  Sea,  very  healthy  and  stout,  the  characteristic 
roughness  of  the  boy  tempered  with  a  very  soft  and  affec- 
tionate disposition.  It  is  quite  delightful  to  see  them 
clasp  and  hug  each  other  with  all  the  innocent  playfulness 
of  infancy  and  love.  Pretty  little  dears,  they  are  to  come 
to  town  on  Thursday  to  spend  the  day  with  us.  Maryanne 
was  very  gracious  with  me,  and  gave  me  many  a  kiss  for 
dear  Aunt.  William  was  rather  shy  but  still  vouchsafed 
me  several  kisses  to  dispose  of  as  I  think  fit ;  and  depend 
upon  it  dear  Ems  shall  come  in  for  her  share.  .  .  .  Heaven 
bless  you  my  dearest  wife.  It  is  the  constant  prayer  of 
your  most  affectionate. 

'  Wm.  Oswell.' 

'  April  21,  1809. 

'  I  fear  my  dear  Emily  will  be  almost  tired  of  seeing  my 
handwriting,  and  begin  to  think  me  extravagant  in  the 
matter  of  postage.  It  is  therefore  a  happy  circumstance 
that  having  heard  from  you  on  Monday  does  in  some  sort 
furnish  me  with  an  apology.  .  .  .  Accept  my  best  thanks 
for  your  very  kind  and  interesting  letter  which  I  have 
feasted  upon  over  and  over  again,  and  blessed  a  hundred 
times  the  hand  that  penned  and  the  heart  that  dictated 
its  contents.  Indeed  Emily,  I  love  you  so  well  and  at 
the  same  time  am  so  selfish,  that  I  cannot  allow  you  to 
receive  half  the  pleasure  from  my  letters  which  I  do  from 
yours,  especially  when  they  talk  a  great  deal  about  your- 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  ii 

self,  which  is  to  me  the  most  interesting  of  all  subjects. 
I  take  therefore  a  wonderful  concern  in  all  your  move- 
ments be  they  never  so  minute,  in  all  your  little  rambles 
and  stories  and  intentions.  To  others  who  possess  not 
the  same  feelings  they  may  be  insignificant,  but  they  are 
all  the  World  to  me.  You  complain  of  my  omitting  to 
say  how  I  felt  after  my  journey.  .  .  .  That  I  was  a  little 
tired  I  will  not  be  stoical  enough  to  deny  .  .  .  but  the 
next  morning  saw  me  all  fresh  and  vigorous  again,  and 
I  have  no  doubt  when  I  make  my  appearance  amongst 
you,  you  will  pay  me  the  Compliment  to  say  that  I  am 
very  handsome.  ...  I  hope  it  will  be  in  my  power  com- 
fortably to  leave  my  Brother  on  Saturday.  ...  I  really 
shall  scold  if  the  Greenhouse  is  not  tolerably  filled.  What 
else  have  you  had  to  do,  you  idle  baggage  ?  .  .  .  I  hope 
my  dearest  Wife  is  as  well  as  I  could  wish  her.  Good- 
night dear  Ems ;  may  Heaven  watch  around  your  bed. 
'  I  am,  believe  me, 

'  Your  affect.  Husbd.  and  sincere  friend, 

'  Wm.  Oswell.' 

It  was  not  until  March  12,  1810 — two  years  and  a  half 
after  the  marriage — that  the  first  child,  Amelia,  was 
born.  Three  daughters  followed  :  Mary  on  November  15, 
1811  ;  Louisa  on  March  13, 1813  ;  Eliza  on  December  29, 
1814.  They  were  an  hourly  delight  to  their  father,  who 
was  never  too  tired  or  too  busy  to  play  with  them,  plan 
for  them,  or  write  to  them. 

^Jnly  1 8 14. 

'  My  dear  little  Ma, 

'  You  are  the  funniest  little  girl  I  ever  knew.  Me 
has  a  good  deal  of  Tongue  and  plenty  of  Teeth,  and  yet 
7ne  cannot  speak  plain.  Me  goes  to  Church  and  falls 
asleep  there  I  am  afraid.  But  still  Papa  loves  me,  little 
me,  very  much,  and  therefore  he  writes  her  a  letter  He 
hopes  she  will  very  soon  begin  to  learn  her  A. B.C.  wriich 
will  enable  her  to  read  and  to  talk  very  prettily,  and  that 


12  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

she  will  go  to  Church  without  falling  asleep,  because  little 
girls  are  supposed  to  go  to  Church  to  learn  to  be  good, 
and  if  they  fall  asleep  they  cannot  hear  what  the  Gentleman 
in  the  black  Gown  may  say  to  them  to  teach  them  to  be 
good.  .  .  .  Papa  is  very  sorry  indeed  to  hear  that  Dear 
Mamma  has  not  been  quite  so  well  for  the  last  two  or 
three  days,  and  he  is  sure  little  Ma  will  not  make  a  noise 
or  be  naughty,  because  that  would  hurt  poor  Mamma  and 
make  her  worse,  and  he  knows  very  well  little  Ma  loves 
her  Mamma  too  much  to  make  her  ill.  Papa  is  going 
again  this  morning  to  the  new  nursery  at  Wanstead,  and 
then  he  thinks  he  shall  have  done  everything  to  make  it 
comfortable  for  his  little  Girls.  Aunt  Berthon  asked  after 
little  Mary  very  particularly.  She  seems  a  great  favorite 
there.  And  as  long  as  she  is  a  good  little  girl  everybody 
will  love  her,  and  nobody  can  love  her  more  or  better 
than  her  Dear  old  Papa,  William  Oswell,  who  begs  her 
to  give  Mamma  and  Sisters  plenty  of  love  and  kisses  for 
him.' 

A  few  months  later  they  moved  to  a  larger  house  at 
Wanstead,  and  the  next  two  years  were  the  brightest  and 
happiest  of  their  lives.  Entirely  wrapped  up  in  each  other, 
and  their  healthy,  beautiful  children,  with  ample  means 
and  many  friends,  their  only  trouble  was  occasional  brief 
separation.  And  this  was  a  pain  that  was  almost  a  pleasure, 
giving  excuse  as  it  did  for  such  correspondence  as  this  : 

*  Shrewsbury, 

'  October  g,  1815. 
'  My  dearest  Love, 

'  I  am  anxiously  longing  for  a  letter  from  Wanstead, 
and  must  still  live  upon  mere  expectation  till  tomorrow 
evening.  And  expectation  to  a  hungry  soul  is  very  meagre 
fare.  It  seems  really  a  tremendous  length  of  time  since 
these  eyes  beheld  my  dear  Wife  and  little  ones.  These 
eyes,  I  say,  for  in  imagination  they  are  ever  present  and 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  13 

with  me,  an  impression  strengthened  perhaps  by  the 
distance  which  now  unfortunately  separates  us.  .  .  .  How 
long  I  may  be  detained  here  must  in  some  degree  depend 
on  causes  beyond  my  control ;  but  were  I  to  consult  in- 
clination alone,  depend  upon  it,  my  dear  Emily,  I  should 
fly  back  to  Wanstead  on  the  Wings  of  the  Wind.  How 
are  our  dear  little  babies  ?  do  they  often  talk  of  Papa  ? 
do  they  love  him  dearly?  do  they  long  for  his  return, 
and  treasure  up  pretty  little  Stories  in  their  Memories  to 
relate  to  him  on  his  return  ?  Oh,  the  sweet  interchange 
of  Parental  and  of  Filial  love  is  not  to  be  foregone  for  all 
the  jewels  upon  Earth  !  I  hope  my  little  lambs  are  good, 
and  behave  properly  and  kindly  and  obediently  to  all.  ,  .  . 
'  With  love  and  affection, 

'  I  remain  ever,  my  dear  Wife,  and  entirely  yours, 

'William  Oswell.' 

In  1816,  by  a  misplaced  and,  it  must  be  added,  in- 
excusable confidence  in  a  friend,  he  lost  half  his  fortune. 
An  immediate  removal  to  a  smaller  house  became  necessary. 
Hardly  had  this  been  effected  when,  in  June,  1817,  the 
four  children  caught  small-pox  from  one  of  the  servants. 
Happily,  the  disease  did  not  assume  a  severe  form,  except 
in  the  case  of  Amelia.  Their  mother  nursed  them  devotedly 
and  unremittingly,  and  in  August  was  able  to  take  them 
to  Worthing,  where  her  husband  had  secured  rooms. 
He  had  hoped  to  be  with  them  during  the  first  week  of 
their  sojourn,  but  yielded  to  her  wish  that  he  should  take 
the  opportunity  of  paying  a  long-deferred  visit  to  his 
Shrewsbury  relations.  His  letters  to  her  thence  are  even 
more  affectionate  than  usual : 

'August  15,  1817. 

'  I  cannot  be  thankful  enough  for  the  enduring  activity 
and  kindness  and  resignation  you  have  displayed ;  though 
at  the  same  time  it  hurts  me  the  more  that  they  should 
have  been  put  to  so  severe  a  trial.  ...  If  there  is  one 
truth  more  certain  than  another,  it  is  that  I  love  my  Wife, 


14  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

who  will  I  hope  ever  continue  to  love  me  and  pray  for  her 
unworthy  but  most  affectionate  Husband.' 

'  August  1 6,  1 817. 
'  My  dear,  dear  Wife, 

' .  .  .  All  desire  their  most  affectionate  remembrances 
to  the  best  of  Wives,  my  dearest  Ems.  .  .  .     Excuse  for 
this  time  so  short  a  scrawl,  my  dear  Love,  you  shall  hear 
from  me  every  day  without  fail.  .  .  . 
'  Believe  me,  my  dearest  Wife, 

'  Your  most  faithful  and  affectionate  husband.' 

'  August  17,  1 81 7. 

'  Pray  kiss  for  me  all  my  little  darlings,  and  tell  them 
Papa  loves  them  most  affectionately  .  .  .  and  accept  your- 
self, my  ever  dear  and  affectionate  Wife,  the  assurance  of 
my  never-ending  friendship.  Love  and  regard.' 

'  London, 

'  August  19,  1 81 7. 

'  To-morrow,  my  Love,  is  our  Wedding-day,  a  day  to 
which  I  am  much  indebted,  and  therefore  a  day  on  which 
I  will  put  up  a  special  prayer  for  your  happiness  here  and 
hereafter.  And,  if  it  please  God,  may  the  years  that  are 
to  come  shine  with  brighter  and  warmer  beams  upon  my 
indulgent  and  affectionate  Wife,  and  may  I  strive  and  be 
enabled  to  add  in  every  way  that  I  can  to  her  comfort  and 
happiness.  .  .  .  We  had  a  grand  party  yesterday.  .  .  . 
I  certainly  was  not  smitten  by  either  of  the  Brides.  As 
yet,  therefore,  my  heart  is  all  my  Wife's !  .  .  .' 

*  Oh,  my  dearest  Wife  !  I  wish  we  had  but  a  Cottage  in 
some  rural  spot  where  we  might  live  in  peace  and  join  in 
prayer  and  praise  to  Him,  Who  is  always  more  ready  to 
hear  than  we  to  ask.  I  have  much  reason  I  know  to  be 
thankful  .  .  .  but  I  know  not  how  it  is,  or  why,  my  heart 
often  sinks  within  me.     The  repeated  parting  from  all  I 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  15 

love  is  almost  more  than  a  counterpoise  for  the  pleasure 
of  meeting.  Let  me  hear  however  that  you  are  well  and 
that  my  dear  little  Emily  continues  to  improve,  and  I 
shall  be  thankful.  Kiss  my  pretty  little  ones  for  papa, 
and 

'  Believe  me  for  Ever  and  Ever,  My  dear  Wife, 

'  Your  most  affectionate  friend.' 

On  April  27,  1818,  to  the  great  delight  of  parents  and 
sisters,  a  son,  William  Cotton,  was  born. 

Meanwhile,  Mr.  Oswell  was  steadily  retrieving  his  losses, 
so  that  in  1820  he  was  in  a  position  to  discuss  with  his 
wife  the  possibility  of  returning  to  the  house  at  Wanstead. 
With  his  increasing  family,  he  did  not  think  he  would  be 
justified  in  trenching  at  all  on  his  capital  for  the  expenses 
of  moving,  the  purchase  of  the  lease,  and  the  many  other 
outgoings  attendant  on  the  change  from  a  small  house  to 
a  larger  one.  After  careful  consideration,  therefore,  the 
idea  was  abandoned.  This  decision  reached  the  ears  of  a 
cousin  of  Mrs.  Oswell's — Miss  Catherine  Clarke — and  she 
immediately  forwarded  a  draft  on  her  bankers  sufficient 
for  every  purpose,  begging  the  Oswells  to  regard  it  as  a 
loan,  and  to  pay  it  back  with  interest,  if  they  insisted 
upon  it,  when  it  suited  them  to  do  so.  No  sooner  had 
they  gratefully  availed  themselves  of  her  kindness,  and 
established  themselves  in  the  house,  than  she  wrote  to 
Mrs.  Oswell : 

'1821. 
'  My  dear  Emily, 

'  You   must  not  deny  me  this  request  I  have  to 

make,  which  is  that  you  and  Mr.  Oswell  will  from  this 

moment  consider  yourselves  entirely  out  of  my  debt.     The 

pleasure  I  have  experienced  in  assisting  you  with  a  Sum 

of  Money  upon  your  retaking  possession  of  this  house  will 

be  increased  by  your  considering  yourselves  perfectly  free 

from  the  debt,  both  principal  and  interest.     Do  not,  my 

dear  Friends,  put  me  to  the  pain  of  even  listening  to  a 


1 6 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


refusal  which  I  cannot  take,  but  receive  this  from  one  who 
sincerely  wishes  by  every  means  in  her  power  to  contribute 
to  your  happiness  and  Comfort,  and  who  is  ever 
'  Your  very  affectionate 

'  Catherine  E.  Clarke.' 


MRS.  OSWELL  AND  W.  COTTON  OSWELL  AT  THE 

AGE  OF  THREE. 

From  a  Sketch  by  Delacour. 


Mr.  Oswell  signalized  this  happy  return  by  commission- 
ing Delacour  in  the  early  days  of  182 1  to  execute  a  sketch 
of  his  wife  and  little  boy.  On  March  14  another  son, 
Edward  Waring,  was  born.  The  parents  at  once  begged 
their  generous  cousin  to  be  his  godmother,  and  she  gladly 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  .17 

consented.  This  year  the  little  daughters  constantly  sent 
notes  to  their  father  when  he  was  away,  and  he  made  a 
point  of  replying  promptly.  On  the  day  of  the  funeral  of 
Queen  Caroline  he  writes  to  eleven-year  old  Emily : 

'  My  Dear  Girl,-  August  1^,  1821. 

'  That  I  should  so  long  have  suffered  a  Lady's 
letter  to  remain  unanswered,  or  at  least  without  a  specific 
reply,  betrays,  I  fear,  a  want  of  Gallantry  on  my  part  and 
is  a  proof  that  the  age  of  Chivalry  is  past.  .  ,  ,  We  have 
had  a  sad  squabble  to-day  about  the  poor  Queen.  The 
Ministers  said  the  Funeral  should  not  come  through  the 
City.  The  Mob  said  it  should,  and  I  am  very  sorry  to  say 
the  Mob  succeeded  at  last,  for  they  completely  stopped  up 
the  other  roads  by  pieces  of  timber,  carts,  coaches,  stones, 
etc.,  etc.,  so  that  the  procession  could  not  pass,  and  they 
were  obliged  to  halt  for  fresh  orders  from  Lord  Liverpool, 
and  the  result  was  that  it  came  through  the  City  about 
4  o'clock,  when  I  saw  the  whole  of  it  passing  the  Exchange. 
It  was  nothing  very  splendid  and  the  people  were  there 
very  orderly,  but  report  says  they  v/ere  very  much  the 
reverse  in  the  morning  and  that  several  persons  were 
killed  in  the  bustle.     I  hope  this  is  not  true.  .  .  .' 

A  year  passed  away.  At  the  beginning  of  1822  he  had 
a  very  severe  illness,  from  which,  however,  he  appeared  to 
rally  completely.  But  there  were  two  relapses,  and  re- 
garding his  condition  as  precarious,  he  writes  on  June  7, 
1822  : 

'  Having  this  day  received  a  second  warning  it  seems 
high  time  that  I  should  make  this  simple  declaration  of 
my  last  Will  and  Testament  while  the  ability  is  yet 
spared  me. 

***** 

*  All  the  residue  of  my  little  property  of  every  sort  and 
description.  ...  I  give  and  bequeath,  without  any  reserve, 
to  my  ever  dear  and  most  affectionate  Wife,  who  has  been 

VOL.  I.  2 


i8  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

to  me  the  kindest,  tenderest  and  best  of  friends,  whose 
love  has  Solaced  my  happier  days,  and  supported  me  in 
affliction  and  distress ;  ever  Smiling,  Cheerful  and  Re- 
signed, notwithstanding  the  fretfulness  and  impatience 
which  I  have  too  often  exhibited,  and  for  which,  as  well 
as  for  numberless  other  iniquities,  I  would  humbly  and 
earnestly  and  anxiously  implore  the  forgiveness  of 
Almighty  God  for  the  alone  merits  of  Jesus  Christ  our 
Lord  and  Saviour.  I  commend  her  to  the  care  of  many 
kind  friends,  and  above  all  I  commend  her  to  a  Gracious 
God,  the  Father  of  the  Fatherless  and  the  Husband  of  the 
Widow.  I  have  the  fullest  Confidence  in  her  judgment 
and  discretion  with  respect  to  the  management  of  my 
dear  Children,  and  I  ardently  and  anxiously  pray  that 
she  may  be  supported  in  the  arduous  task,  and  that  it 
may  finally  please  Almighty  God  of  his  goodness,  to 
reunite  us  all  in  his  appointed  time,  a  family  in  Heaven. 
Amen,  for  Jesus  Christ's  sake,  Amen.' 

When  he  was  sufficiently  recovered,  it  was  decided  that 
he  should  spend  a  month  at  Hastings  with  his  wife,  and 
the  winter  abroad.  His  father-in-law  sent  a  letter  to 
his  house  on  the  day  of  his  departure  : 

'  Layton, 

'August  lo,  1822. 

*  My  dear  Friend  Oswell — 

*  I  cannot  allow  you  to  go  from  my  Neighbourhood 
without  some  token  of  my  great  and  sincere  Regard  and 
Affection,  altho'  I  have  not  been  permitted  personally  to 
assure  you  of  the  Esteem  and  Solicitude  I  entertain  for 
your  future  welfare,  and  that  of  all  belonging  to  you,  and 
the  unremitting  Desire  I  have  to  be  instrumental  to  all 
your  Comforts  and  the  restoration  to  health  and  the 
Embraces  of  all  that  are  dear  to  You,  and  to  assure  you 
of  my  fervent  prayers  to  that  Effect,  and  for  a  sincere 
blessing  on  the  Endeavours  to  promote  them.  May  the 
Providence  of  God  support  you  and  Sanctify  the  Means 
about  to  be  adopted  for  your  Recovery.     I  have  it  full  in 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  19 

contemplation  as  soon  as  you  are  comfortably  settled,  to 
come  down  for  a  month,  and  will  bring  any  of  your 
Children  wath  me ;  therefore  look  out  for  a  House  within 
that  distance  of  your  own  that  may  enable  us  to  keep  up 
the  Intercourse,  and  pray  spare  no  Expence  that  may 
conduce  to  your  Ease  and  Satisfaction.  My  purse  is 
open  for  your  leaving  England,  and  as  it  is  our  Duty  to 
submit  to  dispensations  we  are  sure  must  be  founded  in 
Mercy  and  Goodness,  so  let  this  chear  you ;  and  bound  as 
we  all  are  to  Endeavour  at  the  preservation  of  Life  and 
all  its  benefits  for  both  ourselves  and  families,  leave  no 
opportunity  to  improve  such  as  may  offer,  being  assured 
I  will  be  attentive  to  all  your  dear  Family  to  the  Utmost 
of  my  power.  And  as  the  Health  of  your  excellent  Wife 
is  one  of  the  first  considerations,  so  do  not  let  her  omit  to 
use  Exercise  and  Air  as  she  has  been  accustomed,  nor  let 
her  fatigue  herself  by  undertaking  more  than  her  Strength 
and  delicate  Constitution  will  allow  of.  And  may  the 
blessing  of  Almighty  God  be  with  You  and  Her  and  again 
permit  me  to  see  you  both  in  Health  and  the  enjoyment 
of  every  blessing  which  any  reasonable  Being  has  Hope 
of,  thro'  the  kind  and  merciful  Dispensations  we  have  all 
so  long  experienced,  and  myself  beyond  the  Term  of 
Life,  the  most  unworthy  of  them.  My  affectionate  good 
wishes  and  Regards  are  Yours  and  Hers.  A  single  Line 
to  express  your  Welfare  will  be  most  acceptable  at  all 
Times  and  the  Greatest  Comfort  and  Cordial  to  us  all. 

'  And  having  only  to  commend  you  to  the  providential 
charge  of  that  Being  who  sees  even  the  Sparrow  fall, 
'  Believe  me  most  truly  your  affectionate 

'  Friend  and  Father 

'Joseph  Cotton.' 

'  I  thank  God  I  feel  well  in  health.     May  my  Daughters 
be  careful  of  theirs  for  that  is  my  next  apprehension.' 

The  visit  to   Hastings  was   a  terrible  strain  on  poor 
Mrs.  Oswell.     She  was  torn  asunder  by  the  conflicting 

2 — 2 


•20  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

claims  of  husband  and  children.  She  could  not,  dared 
not,  leave  him  alone  for  an  hour.  She  had  never  before 
been  parted  from  them  for  a  single  day. 

Mrs.  Oswell  to  her  Children. 

'  The  Battery  House, 
'  Hastings, 

'  Atig.  14,  1822. 
'  My  dearest  Children, 

'  I  fear  you  have  been  expecting  a  letter  from  me 
some  days.  I  certainly  should  have  written  but  dear 
Papa  has  occupied  all  my  time.  He  has,  I  am  sorry  to 
say,  been  very  languid  all  day,  but  I  hope,  now  we  are 
comfortably  settled,  he  will,  with  the  blessing  of  our 
Heavenly  Father,  improve  in  strength.  We  were  quite 
glad  to  get  from  the  Inn.  Our  Sitting-room  was  over 
the  Kitchen,  and,  as  you  may  suppose,  very  hot,  and 
dear  Papa  was  obliged  to  be  carried  up  fifty  stairs  to  bed. 
The  going  up  and  down  has  made  my  legs  stiff,  and  poor 
Nurse  walks  quite  lame.  We  have  a  comfortable  small 
house  by  the  Sea,  it  is  called  the  Battery  House.  It  is 
very  cheerful  and  I  only  hope  we  shall  not  find  it  too 
noisy.  There  is  to  be  a  grand  sailing  match  on  Friday 
which  I  hope  will  amuse  dear  Papa  as  we  shall  see  it 
from  our  Drawing-room  Window.  There  are  a  great 
many  children  here  and  I  look  at  them  as  they  pass,  but 
cannot  find  one  like  my  Willy  and  Teddy.  What  would 
I  give  for  a  kiss  from  you  all !  But  I  must  not  think  of 
it,  as  if  the  change  of  air  be  of  service  to  dear  Papa,  I 
shall  be  fully  rewarded  for  all  the  pain  I  now  feel  at  being 
separated  from  you.  I  thought  it  best  to  write  to  all  of 
you  first,  but  tell  William  the  next  letter  shall  be  to  him 
by  the  post.  ...  I  fear  I  left  all  my  things  in  great  con- 
fusion, but  really  I  could  not  think  of  anything  but  dear 
Papa.  When  he  gets  a  little  better  I  hope  to  have  you 
down,  but  till  then  you  must  all  try  to  make  one  another 
happy.  ...      I   am  very  thankful  we  have   got   to    our 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  21 

journey's  end,  and  we  must  think  ourselves  very  well  off 
to  get  a  house  so  soon.  ...  I  send  you  a  sad  scrawl 
and  almost  fear  you  will  hardly  be  able  to  read  it,  but 
you  must  put  all  your  wise  heads  together  and  try  to  make 
it  out.  You  must  ask  Uncle  William  to  get  you  a  frank 
some  day  that  you  may  all  send  me  a  short  letter.  It 
must  not  weigh  more  than  an  ounce.  ...  It  is  now 
quite  teatime,  therefore  I  must  wish  you  all  Good-bye. 
'  Believe  me  ever  your  affectionate  Mother. 

'  A  great  many  kisses  to  dear  Teddy,  Willy,  and  all 
from  Papa  and  Mamma.' 

Days  and  weeks  passed,  but  there  was  no  improvement. 
On  the  contrary  he  grew  steadily  worse,  and  his  wife, 
recognising  that  the  end  could  not  be  far  off,  wrote  to  her 
sister  Louisa,  who  during  her  absence  from  home  had 
taken  her  place  at  Wanstead,  to  bring  the  four  elder 
children  down  to  see  their  father  once  more.  Early  in 
October,  worn  out  with  grief,  watching  and  nursing,  she 
thankfully  accepted  the  offer  of  her  brother-in-law  to  join 
her,  and  remain  as  long  as  he  could  be  of  any  assistance. 

Meanwhile  her  brothers  William  and  Benjamin  came 

whenever  they  could,  and  her   father   drove   over   from 

London  or  Tunbridge  Wells  frequently,  never  failing  to 

bring  strength  and  consolation  with  him.     On  the  igth 

he  saw  his  well-loved  son-in-law  for  the  last  time ;    the 

conviction  that  it  was  so  was  strong  upon  him,  and  the 

noble-hearted  old  gentleman  determined  that  so  far  as  lay 

in  his  power  the  end  should  be  faced  by  husband  and 

wife  free  from  anxiety  for  the  future.      If  anything  could 

comfort  their  sad  hearts,  it  would  sureh'  be  such  a  letter 

as  this : 

'  Tunbridge  Wells, 

,  -,  '  October  20,  1822. 

My  very  dear  Amelia, 

'  As  I  returned  hither  yesterday  it  occurred  to  me 

to  write  to  You  in  your  affliction,  thinking  that  a  letter 


22  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

might  be  acceptable  and  help  to  compose  and  comfort 
you.     I  have  undertaken  it  to-day,  and  although  I  can 
add  little  to  the  suggestions  of  your  own  Mind  and  of 
those  who  are  with  you,  to  fortify  you  against  the  event 
which   I  perceive  is  fast  approaching,  yet  I  cannot  but 
assure  You  how  deeply  and  sincerely  I  have  felt  for  you 
in  your  affliction.     And  heavy  as  it  is  and  will  be,  Still 
my  dear  Child  we  must  consider  it  as  the  Visitation  of  a 
merciful  God  who  does  not  wantonly,  or  without  some 
good  intended,  send  such  heavy  dispensations  upon  us : 
and  to  His  Mandate  all  must  bow  and  it  is  the  part  both 
of  Religion  and  philosophy  so  to  do.     That  your  excellent 
Husband  and  Man  has  been  so  early  called  upon  to  pay 
the    Debt   incumbent   on  us  all,  is  to   be  deplored,  but 
neither  repined  at   or  murmured  at,  seeing  it  is  of  the 
Lord  who  will  I  trust  receive  him  into  the  arms  of  His 
Mercy  and   Love  and  blessedness.     This   Earth  and  all 
its  enjoyments  are  insuf^ciently  bestowed  for  the  attain- 
ment of  unmixt  happiness.     It  has  pleased  God  to  allow 
me  the  comfort  of  seeing  most  of  my  children  grown  up 
and  deriving  from  their  Connexions  and  Intercourse  with 
Society  all  the  kindly  felicity  and  Respect  with  which  we 
can  ever   flatter  ourselves.      But   these    Gifts   are   occa- 
sionally interspersed  with  Visitations  that   manifest  the 
uncertainty  of  all  sublunary  Consolations,  and  it  comes 
home  in  succession  to  each  and  every  one  of  us.     You 
have  shared  an  affliction  and  Sorrow  and  Anxiety  beyond 
the  Common  Tenor  from  its  Continuance  as  well  as  from 
its  Termination.      But  where  are  those  who  can  plead 
an  Exemption  ?  or  who  have  the  hardihood  when  such 
calamity  comes,  not  to  feel  its  dire  Effects  and  Conse- 
quences ?       Believe    me,    none    are    proof    against    the 
poignancy  of  such   Sufferings  or  their   Results.     And   I 
bless  God  you  have  had  Strength  and  Fortitude  to  fullfiU 
your  severe  Duty  with  the  resignation  that   behoves  us 
fallible  Creatures  to  entertain.     My  heart  has  most  truly 
felt    for   You    under    the    afflicting    Rod.     But   my   dear 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  23 

Child  do  not  be  discouraged  or  shaken  in  your  Faith  or 
your  Hope.  That  the  Widow  and  fatherless  Children 
are  the  peculiar  Charge  of  providence  we  learn  in  all 
the  Sacred  Scriptures,  and  that  will  be  your  portion. 
Should  your  dear  Man  be  yet  Sensible,  it  may  be  some 
Consolation  to  assure  him  I  have  not  failed  of  the  promise 
I  made  him  when  he  left  Wanstead,  of  my  Continued 
Supplications  to  the  Throne  of  Grace  on  his  behalf;  and 
there  is  nothing  within  the  whole  Compass  of  my  Life 
that  I  can  do  for  You  and  his  Children  that  shall  not  be 
done,  and  for  a  provision  for  them  when  it  shall  please 
God  to  move  me  hence,  which  cannot  in  the  Course  of 
things  be  far  off  as  my  advanced  age  and  manifold 
Infirmities  suggest  day  by  day.  I  trust  you  will  have 
no  hesitation  in  your  Removal  to  my  House  at  Leyton, 
where  your  Children  will  find  Room,  a  good  Garden  for 
Exercise,  and  an  affectionate  Welcome.  There  will  be 
no  difficulty  in  accommodating  You  all,  and  I  shall  be 
happy  in  affording  You  this  asylum,  and  housing  You. 
But  should  you  prefer  a  Lighting- place  here,  as  being 
nearer  to  remove  to,  I  will  find  you  a  Comfortable  House 
where  you  may  pass  a  few  Months  prior  to  your  coming 
into  Essex.  As  this  Event  must  be  looked  to,  so  I  would 
not  have  you  at  a  loss  when  the  period  comes,  and  from 
the  Conduct  of  your  Children  here  I  am  sure  they  can  be 
no  annoyance  to  me,  either  here  or  at  Leyton.  Let  your 
heart  therefore  be  Comforted  and  Consoled  under  the 
Distress  we  anticipate,  by  knowing  that  if  you  lose  one 
protector  you  have  others ;  and  the  Beneficent  Being, 
whose  Mercy,  forbearance,  and  Goodness  I  have  ex- 
perienced in  most  trying  Situations  and  for  so  many 
Years,  will  not  fail  to  give  you  his  Blessing  be  you  where 
you  may.  It  is  impossible  that  any  Reasonable  Being 
should  expect  his  Family  to  be  exempt  from  this  usual 
fate  of  others,  or  that  he  is  to  share  protection  beyond 
the  general  Lot  of  Mankind.  The  Loss  of  your  dear  and 
ever   lamented   Mother,  of  poor   Sarah  and  Mrs.   John, 


24  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

have  been  such  Inroads  into  my  Comforts  as  to  Exhibit 
the  fallacy  of  any  such  Impressions,  did  I  entertain  them. 
My  Grief  has  been  and  is  a  constant  Repetition,  but  I 
hope  so  chastened  and  corrected  as  to  place  me  in  that 
state  of  Resignation  that  will  be  acceptable  to  my  Maker 
and  obtain  his  gracious  Favour  and  Consideration,  which 
I  earnestly  pray  may  be  extended  to  my  Children  and 
Grandchildren  who  have  been  augmented  a  Day  or  two 
ago  by  Mrs.  Joseph's  delivery  of  another  Son.  May  God 
Almighty,  my  Dearest  Daughter,  take  you  and  yours 
under  his  protection,  support  You  under  this  Heavy 
Trial  and  give  You  Strength  and  Ability  to  fullfill  the 
more  extensive  Duty  that  now  devolves  on  You.  And 
under  all  Events  only  rely  on  my  assistance  and  affection 
which  never  will  desert  you.  Give  your  Children  a  Kiss 
for  me.  I  shall  delight  to  see  them  under  my  Roof,  and 
with  my  sincere  and  affectionate  Regards  to  Yourself, 
Louisa  and  the  Young  folks, 

'  Believe  me,  your  very  affectionate 

'  Parent  and  Friend. 

'  Make  my  Respects  acceptable  to  Mr.  T.  Oswell,  with 
thanks  for  his  attentions  and  comfort  to  your  dear 
Husband,  Yourself  and  Family.  The  lasses  desire  their 
duty  and  Love,  and  all  beside  join  in  affectionate  Regards 
and  good  wishes  for  everything  that  can  chear  You  under 
the  present  Calamity.' 

In  a  corner  of  the  paper  there  is  a  postscript  from 
Benjamin  Cotton  : 

'  I  can  add  nothing  to  my  Father's  letter  save  that  I 
participate  in  all  his  feelings  towards  you.  ...  I  will 
come  to  you  immediately  I  hear  that  my  presence  will  be 
acceptable  or  useful  to  you.' 

On  the  22nd  the  end  came  very  quietly.  "William 
Cotton  had  driven  down  for  the  dav,  and  remained  to  see 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  25 

carried  out  Mr.  Oswell's  wish  to  be  buried  in  the  church- 
yard of  All  Saints,  Old  Hastings. 

Thus  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-three  Mrs.  Oswell  was 
left  a  widow  with  a  family  of  six  children,  the  eldest  only 
twelve  years  old,  the  youngest  nineteen  months. 

Some  time  later  she  writes  in  her  journal : 

'  In  October  1822  it  pleased  the  Almighty  to  visit  me 
with  my  severest  affliction.  My  beloved  Husband  was 
taken  from  me.  He  was  of  a  most  affectionate  disposi- 
tion and  to  me  the  best  of  husbands.  We  were  more 
tenderly  attached  than  I  can  describe.  We  had  known 
prosperity  and  adversity  together  (so  far  as  regards  worldly 
enjoyments)  and  I  own  I  felt  at  times  that  I  could  not 
continue  here  without  him ;  but  it  was  ordered  otherwise 
for  me.  May  our  union,  begun  in  this  world,  be  con- 
tinued through  all  eternity !  How  thankful  should  I  be 
that  I  was  permitted  to  attend  him  so  constantly,  though 
he  would  not  allow  me  to  sit  up  with  him  till  quite  the 
close  of  his  illness,  which  though  not  painful  was  par- 
ticularly trying  to  one  of  such  sensitive  and  affectionate 
feelings.  His  dear  brother  came  to  him  a  fortnight 
before  his  death,  and  was  a  sincere  comfort.  This  time 
of  severe  trial  is  not  to  be  expressed  by  writing.  My 
dearest  Husband's  illness  was  for  several  months,  and  I 
saw  him  gradually  ripening  for  eternity ;  and  at  the  last, 
by  God's  grace,  I  was  enabled  to  say,  "  Thy  will  be 
done."  O,  my  God  Thou  alone  knowest  what  I  then 
went  through !' 

It  is  pleasant  in  the  midst  of  her  trouble  to  read  this 
entry : 

'On  November  2nd,  1822,  My  four  elder  children  and 
I,  joined  my  other  two  who  were  with  my  dear  Father 
at  Tunbridge,  and  we  all  spent  the  winter  at  Leyton 
with  him ;  his  delightful  reception  of  me  and  mine  was 
more  than  I  can  express.' 

In  the  following  February  five  of  the  children  had 
measles,  and  their  mother  found  a  sad  comfort  in  nursing 


26  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

again.  Grandpapa's  and  Uncle  Ben's  kindness  was  un- 
bounded. They  vied  with  one  another  in  amusing  the 
httle  invalids,  and  giving  them  presents,  the  delight  in 
which  was  greatly  enhanced  by  the  letters  which  always 
accompanied  them  : 

*  Noah's  Ark  with  Noah,  Shem,  Ham,  and  Japhet,  and 
their  Wives  to  stand  in  front  and  behind,  and  the  animals 
to  fill  the  doors  or  the  Inside  as  may  suit.  Grandpapa's 
Love  to  William  OswelL' 

{With  a  copy  of  the  Rev.  T.  Bowdlcr's  expurgated  Shake- 
speare.) 

'  March  13,  1823. 

*  A  Gentleman  and  Poet  of  some  reputation  desires  to 
congratulate  Miss  Oswell  upon  her  birthda3\  Being  a 
native  of  Stratford-on-Avon  he  could  not  possibly  pay 
his  respects  earlier.  He  now  desires  to  be  admitted  into 
Miss  Oswell's  Library  and  to  have  the  happiness  of  her 
acquaintance,  and  of  occasionally  endeavouring  to  enter- 
tain her.  He  trusts  that  his  manners  are  such  as  will 
not  give  offence  to  any  of  her  friends.  He  has  been  re- 
educated on  purpose  to  fit  him  for  the  Society  of  Ladies 
and  will  be  happy  to  be  re-dressed  in  any  fashion  that 
may  be  most  approved,  if  his  present  appearance  is  too 
homely. 

'  Introduced  to  Miss  Louisa  Oswell  by  her  affectionate 
Uncle  Benjamin  Cotton.' 

The  next  two  or  three  years  may  be  dismissed  with  a 
few  extracts  from  Mrs.  Oswell's  diary  : 

'  November  ist,  1823. — We  returned  home  from  our 
lodgings.  My  sister  Louisa  having  most  kindly  arranged 
my  furniture  in  a  house  I  had  taken  at  Woodford,  was 
ready  with  my  three  other  children  to  welcome  us  home 
and  a  happy  meeting  we  had.  To  feel  once  more  sur- 
rounded by  my  Treasures,  at  home  was  a  delight  though 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  27 

deprived  of  my  greatest  earthly  comfort  (he   may  have 
been  permitted  to  witness).' 

'February,  1825. — My  most  dear,  honoured  and  be- 
loved Father  passed  peacefully  away.  This  short  extract 
from  his  last  Will  I  have  taken  down  with  the  earnest 
hope  that  it  may  be  a  further  inducement  to  me  to  con- 
tinue in  a  stedfast  and  sincere  faith  and  in  the  practice  of 
every  Christian  virtue : 

'  "  I  profess  to  have  lived  as  I  hope  to  die  in  the  faith 
of  a  Crucified  Redeemer,  relying  solely  on  his  Atonement 
and  Mediation  for  Mercy  and  Salvation,  earnestly  entreat- 
ing, nay  enjoining  my  Children  to  continue  stedfast 
therein,  and  in  the  Practice  as  well  as  Profession  of  a 
Christian,  it  being  the  only  certain  means  of  attaining 
Comfort  here  and  Happiness  hereafter;  which  Injunction 
I  have  every  reason  to  believe  is  and  will  be  their  Chief 
Consideration.  I  desire  to  be  buried  in  a  decent  manner, 
without  Parade,  in  the  Vault  that  contains  the  Remains 
of  my  most  excellent  Wife,  whose  soul  I  believe  to  be 
amongst  the  Blessed."  ' 

'  September,  1825. — I  have  been  indeed  a  Source  of 
anxiety  and  trouble  to  my  family,  though  they,  most 
kindly,  never  shew  it.  Sister  Louisa  is  a  second  mother 
to  my  sweet  Eliza.  Dear  Girl  she  engages  everyone  to 
love  her.' 

Six  months  later  pretty  little  Eliza  was  dead.  Her 
mother  thus  describes  her  illness  : 

'  April,  1826. — My  little  Eliza  had  a  severe  attack  of 
jaundice  in  January,  and  for  days  was  in  danger.  She 
however  rallied  and  was  able,  dear  girl,  to  leave  her 
room.  The  sweet  little  dear  was  constantly  employed ; 
her  behaviour  and  countenance  were  Angehc.  Then 
came  a  relapse  and  for  six  weeks  previous  to  her  de- 
parture she  kept  her  bed  ;  I  only  occasionally  lifted  her 
out  while  it  was  made,  and  she  sat  on  my  lap  in  my 
arms.  Her  delight  was  in  showing  kindness  to  others. 
The  last  night  I  took  her  up,  she  kissed  me  very  often. 


28  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

It  was  a  sweet  sight  to  see  her  of  a  night  before  going  to 
sleep,  with  her  lamp  on  her  bed,  saying  her  prayers.  She 
had  requested  I  would  write  them  out.  Many  days  before 
she  died  we  thought  her  spirit  departing;  and  as  early 
as  Ash  Wednesday  I  had  been  watching  some  time  by 
her  bed,  she  had  been  dozing,  and  she  seemed  by  her 
countenance  at  Heaven's  Gate.  Her  dear  sisters,  just 
returned  from  Church,  were  anxiously  looking  at  her, 
when,  all  of  a  sudden,  she  revived,  seemed  to  awake,  and 
asked  for  something  to  eat.  I  was  not  allowed  to  sit  up 
with  her  not  being  strong  in  health  ;  it  was  a  trial  to  me. 
Her  spirit  left  her  without  a  groan  at  9  o'clock  on  Easter 
Sunday,  March  26th  1826.  She  had  laid  her  head  upon 
her  hand  and  fell  asleep.  Miss  McDiarmid  and  I  were 
with  her.  W^hen  it  was  over  I  felt  as  if  I  were  a  block  of 
marble ;  it  was  most  distressing.  I  do  not  think  the  dear 
Child  was  aware  of  her  danger,  but  we  were  so  urged  by 
her  medical  man  not  to  name  it  to  her.  I  do  not  know 
if  we  were  right.  She  was  the  most  affectionate  of 
children.  I  cannot  say  how  much  I  loved  her.  I  only 
hope  I  did  not  love  her  too  much.' 

Miss  McDiarmid  was  Mrs.  Oswcll's  governess  and 
friend.  She  taught  httle  W^illiam  as  well  as  his  sisters, 
and,  young  as  he  was,  her  great  intelligence  and  strong 
original  mind  left  their  impress  on  him.  In  an  age  of 
conventional  expression,  it  is  refreshing  to  read  such  a 
letter  as  this  : 

Miss  McDiarmid  to  Miss  Louisa  Oswcll. 

'TOTTERIDGE. 

'  I  have  heard  Dr.  Gordon  spoken  of  as  a  very  clever 
and  a  very  kind  man.  The  latter  qualification  is  I  think 
a  great  recommendation  in  a  physician  ;  I  never  could  go 
to  a  Bear  however  skilful  he  might  be.  I  cannot  agree 
with  you,  dear,  in  liking  Sir  C.  Grandison.  I  believe  I 
differ  from  most  people  in  my  opinion  of  that  book.     It 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  29 

is  generally  among  the  first  novels  that  are  put  in  a 
young  person's  hands.  But  I  consider  it  prosy,  very 
stupid,  and  in  many  parts  far-fetched.  The  hero  and  the 
incomparable  Miss  B.  are  characters  much  too  perfect  to 
be  natural ;  not  that  I  should  like  any  hero  to  be  a  had 
man — but  to  err  is  human.  Sir  C.  G.  never  even  thinks 
amiss,  and  seven  volumes  of  it !' 

At  this  date  it  was  only  in  her  journal  that  Mrs.  Oswell 
allowed  her  grief  and  anxiety  to  appear.  To  her  children 
she  was  always  bright  and  cheerful,  and  home  the  happiest, 
merriest  place  imaginable.  They  idolized  her,  and  their 
love  for  her  and  hers  for  them  was  the  comfort  and  joy  of 
her  life. 

A  melia  Oswell  to  her  Mother. 

^  June  19,  1826. 
'  My  very  dearest  Mamma, 

'  My  dear  Aunt*  and  Cousins  are  so  kind  as  to 
wish  me  to  prolong  my  visit  beyond  Wednesday,  and  as 
Aunt  has  written  to  you  about  it  I  need  say  nothing 
more ;  only  pray  let  me  have  what  you  really  and  truly 
wish.  You  my  dearest  Mamma  know  my  feelings.  At 
home  I  feel  that  I  enjoy  the  height  of  human  happiness, 
far,  far,  more  than  I  deserve.  Away  from  you  I  experi- 
ence a  sort  of  resigned  pleasure  which  looks  forward  with 
hope  to  the  time  when  I  shall  again  be  united  to  you.  I 
think  I  shall  like  to  be  with  you  by  next  Sunday,  but 
your  letter  shall  decide  me.  Dear  Phebe  enters  into  my 
feelings  ;  it  is  my  greatest  pleasure  to  talk  to  her  of  you 
and  home.  I  hope  you  will  not  over-fatigue  yourself  this 
very  hot  day.  .  .  .  With  the  kindest  love  to  my  dear 
Sisters  and  darling  Teddy  and  Willy  if  with  you, 
*  Believe  me.  Dearest  Mamma, 

*  Your  ever  Dutiful  and  Affectionate  Daughter.' 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  1827  Mary  became  seriously 
-  Mrs.  Bowdler. 


3o  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

ill,  and  Mrs.  Oswell  for  the  first  time  since  her  husband's 
death  sought  to  relieve  her  aching  heart  by  confiding  its 
sorrows  and  troubles  to  sympathetic  ears — those  of  her 
favourite  sister,  Mrs,  Bowdler. 

Many  years  later — in  1855 — ^just  after  the  death  of  his 
wife,  whose  executor  he  was,  the  Rev.  Thomas  Bowdler 
wrote  to  William  Cotton  Oswell : 

'  My  dear  William, 

'  Upon  opening  a  little  box  the  contents  of  which 
are  directed  to  be  burned,  which  is  the  case  of  all  papers, 
(only  that  they  may  be  read  by  me)  I  find  this  little 
packet  of  letters  written  by  your  dear  Mother  to  the 
friend  of  her  heart  during  one  portion  of  her  heavy  trials, 
and  possessing  the  great  charm  of  shewing  her  feelings 
and  her  character  in  all  the  genuine  simplicity  and 
strength  which  she  possessed  in  so  remarkable  a  degree. 
It  seemed  to  be  no  common  gift  of  grace  and  power 
which  was  vouchsafed  to  her,  if  indeed  it  be  lawful  to 
speak  of  anything  as  extraordinary  in  the  dealings  of  Our 
Heavenly  Father  with  his  Children.  The  packet  should 
now  be  in  your  hands,  so  I  commend  it  to  your  care. 
The  contents  are  very  interesting  and  touching  to 
me. 

'  Ever  very  much  yours, 

'T.  Bowdler.' 

Mrs.  Oswell  to  Mrs.  Bowdler. 

*  Woodford, 

'Od.  31,  1827. 

' .  .  .  I  try  all  I  can  to  comfort  and  support  Mary. 
My  earnest  prayers  are  to  be  enabled  to  do  my  duty,  but 
I  feel  in  such  a  responsible  situation,  and  the  irreparable 
loss  of  the  greatest  of  earthly  blessings,  my  dear,  dear 
Husband — but  I  must  not  repine.  The  Almighty  who 
has  promised  to  be  a  Father  to  the  fatherless,  has  likewise 
promised  to  be  Husband  to  the  Widow.' 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  31 

'Journal,  December,  1827. — On  her  dear  Father's  birthday, 
November  27th,  1827,  I  was  called  on  to  resign  my  Mary 
into  the  hands  of  a  Merciful  Father.  Just  before  the  end 
as  she  lay  on  the  sofa  taking  her  supper  she  said,  "  In  all 
probability  this  will  be  my  last  birthday  in  this  world." 
It  had  been  her  dear  Sisters'  custom  to  make  little 
presents  to  each  other  on  the  return  of  their  birthdays. 
They  asked  what  they  should  do.  I  advised  them  to 
omit  their  usual  trifles  but  I  made  her  a  present  of  a 
Sovereign  knowing  the  pleasure  she  always  felt  in  being 
able  to  help  the  poor.  She  immediately  appropriated 
part  of  that  sum  to  a  very  worthy  but  distressed  family 
and  requested  I  would  send  for  a  leg  of  mutton,  which 
she  had  brought  up  to  her  to  look  at,  and  which  with  a 
proportionate  quantity  of  potatoes  she  begged  might  be 
sent.  She  was  a  sweet  girl  and  a  most  pleasing  Com- 
panion. She  was  not  generally  known  as  she  was  shy, 
and  so  sensitive  that  anything  not  perfectly  correct  gave 
her  a  disgust.  At  home  she  was  the  most  cheerful  of  the 
party.  She  was  fond  of  reading,  and  read  with  great 
spirit  aloud.  The  last  day  she  was  downstairs  she  would 
read  me  those  sweet  lines  in  Lalla  Rookh  on  the  re- 
pentant Tear.  Her  likeness  to  her  dear  father  was  very 
great.  Beautifully  neat  and  delicate  in  her  figure,  and  of 
a  sweet  and  affectionate  disposition,  her  loss  was  the 
entire  breaking  up  of  our  circle.  She  was  always  ready 
to  do  any  kindness  for  her  sisters,  and  to  promote  their 
pleasure  gave  her  sincere  delight.' 

To  Mrs.  Bowdlcr. 

'  Decemhev  22,  1827. 

* ...  I  cannot  tell  you,  my  dearest  Phebe,  what  I  have 
suffered.  My  mind  is  so  distracted  that  I  can,  at  times, 
hardly  think,  for  the  extreme  exhaustion  I  felt  when  all 
was  over,  seems  to  have  weakened  both  mind  and  body. 
The  great  desire  I  had  for  perfect  rest  and  quiet  was  not 


32  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

granted,  for  my  good  no  doubt.  I  trust  I  shall  be  enabled 
to  wait  patiently  till  the  Lord  sees  fit  to  lighten  my  afflic- 
tion.' 

Mary's  death  was  so  great  a  shock  to  her  sister  Amelia, 
who  was  tenderly  attached  to  her,  that  she  never  held  up 
her  head  again.  Broken-hearted  and  spiritless  she  lingered 
on  for  a  year,  growing  gradually  weaker. 

Mrs.  Oswell  to  Airs.  Bowdler. 

'  Woodford, 

'  February  i6,  1828. 

*  .  .  .  My  dear  Emsie  is  certainly  much  improved,  but 
my  anxious  mind  will  not  be  quite  at  rest.  I  look  at  all 
my  dear  Children  very  differently  to  what  I  did.  It  is 
perhaps  as  well  to  consider  them  as  lent  me  by  the  Lord. 
May  I  be  enabled  to  do  my  duty  towards  them  while  they 
are  with  me  !' 

'  Brighton, 

'February  3,  1829. 

'  Do  not,  my  dear  Phebe,  think  too  highly  of  my  bearing 
up  against  these  heavy  trials.  The  support  that  has  been 
given  me  is  more  than  I  can  describe.  That  my  most 
precious  darling  may  possibly  soon  be  taken  from  me  is 
what  I  can  hardly  dare  to  think  of.  But  I  must  bow 
down,  /  shall  be  the  sufferer.  I  am  thankful  to  say  I  am 
able  to  do  all  for  her  at  present,  and  she  is  so  grateful  and 
so  pleased  with  my  endeavours  that  it  is  quite  overcoming 
at  times.  If  you  have  made  any  plans  for  coming  at  any 
time,  pray  come.     Your  prayers  dear,  dear  Phe.' 

'  Brighton, 

*  February  18,  1829. 

'  .  .  .  Because  I  have  given  you  a  rather  more  cheering 
account  you  must  not  think  I  flatter  myself  with  hopes  of 
amendment.     I  wish  to  feel  that  these  little  comforts  are 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  33 

only  helps  and  refreshments,  and  to  leave  all  in  the  hands 
of  a  Merciful  Father.     I  own  it  is  sometimes  very  difficult.' 

She  had  lost  her  husband  and  her  father,  but  to  the  end 
of  her  life  she  was  never  without  the  strength,  wisdom  and 
ever-ready  help  of  such  brothers  as  few  sisters  possess. 
Their  visits  and  letters  were  at  this  time  a  wonderful  solace 
to  her. 

Benjamin  Cotton  to  Mrs.  Oswell. 

'  Light  Office, 

'  Trinity  House, 

'  26  Feby.,  1829. 

'  I  thank  you  for  your  kind  letter  received  this  morning. 
It  is  a  great  gratification  to  me  to  hear  of  your  comfort 
under  this  severe  affliction.  I  shall  feel  the  bereavement 
as  of  a  Child  of  my  own,  and  must  learn  with  you  the 
great  lesson  of  Resignation,  and  trust  in  an  allwise  and 
gracious  Father.  Assure  the  dear  Girl  of  my  love  and 
affection  and  of  my  remembrance  of  all  her  goodness.  I 
am  glad  Louisa  will  stay  with  you.  Do  not  hesitate  to 
make  me  useful  in  any  way  to  your  relief  and  comfort.  I 
am  ready  to  supply  all  your  pecuniary  wants,  and  will 
either  send  by  Mr.  Williams  or  pay  into  your  Bankers  as 
you  like  best.  .  .  .  You  do  not  mention  the  Boys  so  I 
trust  they  are  well.  Young  John  from  Newick  I  expect 
to  meet  to-morrow  at  Walwood.  ...  I  hope  he  will  like 
his  habitation  and  business.  ...  I  will  send  the  Boys 
some  treacle,  the  first  opportunity.  It  is  pleasant  to  me 
to  be  able  to  report  well  of  yourself.  I  have  many 
enquiries  about  you  all.  ...  It  makes  me  sad  to  see  Mary 
and  Kate  Clarke  both  shut  up,  solitary,  and  both  appearing 
to  want  a  Companion  more  than  Physic.  ...  I  was  at 
Hackney  two  days  ago.  My  Aunt  Charlotte  was  well,  but 
not  yet  free  from  great  terror  about  this  Catholic  business. 
So  that  those  who  have  no  particular  cares  and  troubles 
make  unto  themselves  spears  and  arrows  out  of  public 
VOL.    I.  3 


34  WILLIAM  COTTON   OSWELL 

affairs.  I  will  not  longer  detain  you,  but  commend  you 
earnestly  to  the  loving  kindness  of  our  Heavenly  Father, 
assuring  you  that  you  have  no  friend  on  earth  more 
willing  to  bear  your  burdens  and  assist  and  sympathize 
with  you  in  all  your  troubles  than  your  most  affectionate 
Brother.' 

Mrs.  Oswell  to  Mrs.  Bowdler. 

'  Brighton, 

'February  26,  1829. 

'  .  .  .  I  have  felt  much  more  comforted  and  trust  these 
heavy  dispensations  may  be  sanctified  to  me,  and  a  time 
may  come  when  I  shall  bless  God  for  them  ;  though  so  con- 
trary now  to  flesh  and  blood  I  would  not  have  anything 
contrary  to  His  Will.' 

Next  day  Emily  died. 

*  In  January,  1829,'  writes  Mrs.  Oswell,  in  her  journal, 
'  my  sweet  girl  took  to  her  room  and  never  came  out  of  it. 
She  made  no  complaint  but  seemed  to  fade  away.  It  is 
too  trying  to  give  a  particular  description.  She  had  a 
constant  smile  particularly  the  last  week  whenever  I 
looked  at  her.' 

Then  the  poor  mother,  utterly  broken  down  in  mind 
and  body  wdth  incessant,  hopeless  attendance  on  her 
favourite  daughter,  became  seriously  ill.  As  soon  as  she 
was  well  enough  to  be  moved,  her  sister  Louisa  took  her 
and  her  three  children  to  Brighton,  but  she  failed  during 
a  long  stay  to  regain  her  lost  strength,  though  her  mind 
became  more  composed. 

To  Mrs.  Bowdler. 

'  Brighton, 

'  March  13,  1829. 

* ...  I  am  not  at  present  called  upon  to  feel  any  par- 
ticular anxiety  about  any  of  my  dear  Children.     My  mind 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  35 

now  goes  from  one  to  the  other  of  those  dear  departed, 
and  it  has  been  quite  a  refreshment  to  lay  me  down  and 
think  of  them,  and  of  her  who  was  the  Comfort  and  friend 
of  my  heart.  She  is  at  times  greatly  present  with  me.  .  .  . 
I  cannot  express  my  thoughts  as  I  should  wish  ;  my  head 
from  frequent  nervous  headaches  will  not  permit  me.' 

Louisa  returned  to  her  brother  Benjamin  at  Leyton- 
stone,  but  when  two  or  three  weeks  passed  with  no  im- 
provement in  the  accounts  of  their  sister,  they  both  wrote 
urging  her  to  come  to  them  and  try  what  home  life  would 
do  for  her.  She  acquiesced,  and  they  welcomed  her  and 
her  children  most  affectionately.  They  were  greatly  con- 
cerned at  her  appearance,  and  extreme  physical  weakness 
and  nervous  prostration.  Gradually,  however,  in  the 
congenial  atmosphere  of  love  and  sympathy,  she  began 
to  improve. 

To  Mrs.  Bowdlcr. 

'  Leyton,  1829. 

'  My  dearest  Phebe, 

' .  .  .  Some  comfortable  sleep  the  last  two  nights, 
with  the  assistance  of  a  composing  medicine  has  made  my 
head  rather  stronger,  and  my  hand  a  little  steadier.  The 
day  I  wrote  to  you  I  could  hardly  hold  my  pen.  A  little 
bodily  strength  would  contribute  I  make  no  doubt  to  my 
comfort.  The  small  interest  (Do  not  my  dear  Phebe 
wonder  that  I  can  use  such  an  expression)  that  I  feel  in 
things  around  me  makes  it  quite  painful. 

'  {Sunday  Night). — I  have  had  more  comfort  to-day  than 
I  have  experienced  for  some  time.  The  great  depression 
I  have  felt  lately  was  removed  for  a  short  time  and  the 
thoughts  of  my  dear  departed  Children  were  sweet.  I 
was  able  to  go  to  evening  service  but  I  felt  very  much 
tired  and  not  able  to  attend  so  much  as  I  could  wish.  .  .  . 
The  want  of  a  Dear  Husband  to  assist  me  is — but  I  must 
not  say  so ;  the  Almighty  will  direct  and  assist  me  if  I 
trust  sufficiently  in  him.     No  one  knows  the  sorrows  of 

3—2 


36  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

my  heart.  My  friends  are  all  ready  I  know  to  assist  me, 
and  most  thankful  should  I  be  to  them.  What  I  did  at 
Brighton  without  them  now  distresses  me  a  good  deal. 
I  fancy  I  may  have  acted  too  much  on  my  own  judgment 
at  times.  .  .  .' 

Early  in  June,  detecting  symptoms  of  delicacy  in  her 
only  remaining  daughter  Louisa,  she  hastened  to  consult 
Sir  Astley  Cooper,  who,  however,  assured  her  that  there 
were  no  grounds  for  alarm. 

To  Mrs.  Bowdler. 

'  Leyton, 

^  June  6,  1829. 

' .  .  .  To  feel  comfort  or  free  from  great  anxiety  after 
seeing  a  Doctor  is  something  so  new  to  me,  that  I  hardly 
know  what  to  think.  My  severe  bereavements  lie  so 
heavy  on  me  that  I  fear  I  am  not  thankful  enough.  You 
may  be  able  to  feel  in  some  measure  for  me,  and  you  do, 
I  know.  .  .  .' 

Night  after  night,  when  she  had  gone  to  bed,  the  brother 
and  sister  discussed  what  was  best  for  her  in  the  future. 
Their  brother  John  was  on  his  way  from  India  to  take 
possession  of  the  old  home,  and  it  had  long  been  deter- 
mined in  this  event  that  Benjamin  should  settle  in  London 
for  the  convenience  of  his  business,  and  find  a  house  near 
his  for  Mrs.  Oswell.  But  as  the  time  approached  he 
fancied,  though  she  spoke  no  word  of  demur,  that  she 
dreaded  the  change  of  place  and  mode  of  life.  A  con- 
versation with  Louisa  settled  the  question.  If  the  facts 
were  as  he  suspected,  he  would  give  up  all  idea  of  London, 
she  would  cede  the  headship  of  his  house  to  her  sister, 
and  they  would  all  live  together.  Next  morning  as  he 
mounted  his  horse,  he  asked  Mrs.  Oswell  to  do  him  the 
favour  of  going  over  and  letting  him  have  her  opinion  of 
a  large    vacant    house    in    the    neighbourhood  which    he 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  37 

had  some  thoughts  of  taking.  Her  look  and  exclamation 
of  astonishment  and  delight  were  ample  amends  to  him 
and  Louisa  for  the  sacrifice  they  were  about  to  make ; 
but  he  said  no  more  at  the  moment,  merely  calling  out 
as  he  rode  away  that  he  should  sleep  in  town,  and  would 
write  thence ;  thus  with  graceful  tact  avoiding  making  his 
proposition  to  her  face  to  face,  and  giving  her  time  to 
think  it  over.  In  a  few  hours  the  letter  was  in  her 
hands : 

'  Light  Office, 

'  Trinity  House, 
'My  dear  Sister,  ^ Now.,  1^29. 

'  I  hope  you  have  been  to  see  the  house  to-day, 
and  write  a  few  lines  to  assure  you  it  will  contribute 
greatly  to  my  happiness  if  I  can  by  any  means  make  a 
comfortable  home  for  you  and  your  Children.  I  have 
considered  over  and  over  again  where  to  fix  my  residence, 
when  John  and  his  family  come  to  Leyton,  and  unfit  as  I 
am  from  my  want  of  hearing  for  general  society,  or  to 
form  new  acquaintances,  I  cannot  do  better  than  remain 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  your  being  with  me  would 
make  me  a  home  and  I  should  take  an  interest  in  it ;  and 
you  know  me  well  enough  to  be  assured  that  it  would  be 
a  source  of  happiness  to  me  to  support  3'ou  in  every  way. 
I  would  take  the  house  and  keep  it  up,  and  pay  taxes, 
etc.,  and  the  gardener,  and  you  should  either  keep  house 
on  my  account  and  pay  a  certain  sum  towards  it,  or  on 
your  account  and  let  me  pay  for  my  board.  Wine,  tea 
and  sugar  I  would  provide  in  either  case.  We  should 
have  very  good  rooms  to  receive  any  visitor,  and  you  may 
rely  on  my  being  perfectly  at  ease,  and  I  trust  you  would 
be  the  same  on  that  head.  However  if  you  think  that 
in  my  absence  from  home,  for  days  or  a  week  or  two 
together  you  would  find  so  large  a  house  dreary,  I  would 
by  no  means  persuade  you  to  the  undertaking.  My  prin- 
cipal object  is  that  you  should  not  give  the  house  up  on 
the  score  of  expence.     You  shall  be  rent  and  tax  free. 


38  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

giving  me  a  room  upstairs  and  one  down,  and  the  house- 
keeping shall  be  arranged  in  any  way  you  please.  I  have 
written  in  haste,  just  going  to  dinner,  but  not  the  less 
sincerely,  and  I  will  see  you  to-morrow  afternoon  when 
we  will  talk  the  matter  over.' 

She  thankfully  and  joyfully  hailed  the  proposition,  and 
it  is  a  high  tribute  to  the  whole-hearted  generosity  of  her 
sister  and  brother  that  they  succeeded  in  entirely  evading 
the  vigilance  of  her  sensitive  unselfishness,  and  making 
her  believe  they  were  grateful  to  her  for  falling  in  with 
an  arrangement  which  had  originated  in  their  own  desire. 
For  the  next  fifteen  years  Benjamin  Cotton  devoted 
himself  body  and  soul  to  the  service  of  his  sisters,  and 
became  a  father  in  the  best  and  truest  sense  to  his  young 
nephews. 

Mrs,  Oswell  to  Mrs.  Bowdler. 

'  Nov.  3,  1829. 

'  .  .  .  I  have  much  to  praise  the  Lord  for,  for  though 
Nature  must  have  her  part  at  times  to  mourn  for  such 
sweet  Companions  as  I  have  been  deprived  of,  yet,  I 
trust,  in  spirit  we  are  more  than  ever  united.  I  may  not 
be  able  to-day  to  say  all  I  wish.  My  heart  is  full,  very 
full.  Another  happy  spirit  has,  I  trust,  been  united  to 
those  that  are  gone,  and  I  must  mourn  the  loss  of  an 
affectionate  Brother,  and  my  Children  a  dear  Uncle. 
Our  accounts  from  Shrewsbury  had  of  late  been  very 
comfortable.  Mr.  Oswell  had  spent  the  summer  at 
Westbury  with  great  satisfaction  to  himself  and  his  poor 
neighbours.  Last  week  he  was  with  his  family  at  his 
Wife's  Father's,  and  on  his  return  was  quite  as  well  as 
usual.  On  Saturday,  whilst  dressing,  he  was  a  little  faint, 
and  whilst  sitting  with  his  family  at  dinner  he  fell  back  in 
his  chair,  and  his  spirit  returned  to  God  who  gave  it.*  .  .  . 

■■'■  It  is  a  curious  and  noteworthy  fact  that  one  of  his  sons, 
the  Rev.  Henry  LLoyd  Oswell,  died  sixty-five  years  later  under 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  39 

Dear  Phebe,  this  awful  event  has  been  a  great  shock  to 
me.  I  had  looked  forward  to  sending  my  dear  William 
shortly  to  be  under  his  Uncle's  care  and  attend  Dr.  Butler's 
School.  I  felt  that  it  would  be  such  a  relief  to  me  to 
think  that  my  dear  boy  would  be  not  only  improving  in 
worldly  knowledge,  but  his  higher  interests  would  be 
attended  to,  and  that  daily,  both  by  precept  and  example ; 
But  man  proposes,  God  disposes.  I  have  lost  a  kind  and 
affectionate  friend,  one  that  I  felt  perfectly  at  my  ease  with ; 
but  h.\s  family,  a  parent,  a  father,  a  friend.  I  know  how  to 
feel  for  them,  and  their  poor  Mother.  .  .  .  Dear  Benjamin 
would  not  tell  me  this  sad  news  till  after  breakfast.  I  am 
thankful  he  did  not.  Yesterday  I  felt  very  poorly.  A 
good  night's  sleep  and  some  comfortable  thoughts  on  the 
unity  of  spirits,  which  arose  in  my  mind,  prepared  me 
to  hear  what  has  greatly  distressed  me.  I  often  wish  I 
could  set  down  many  pleasing  thoughts  which  arise  within 
me.  They  seem  sent  to  cheer  and  refresh,  but  whether 
my  mind  has  been  weakened  by  affliction,  or  these  re- 
maining long  would  exalt  me,  they  are  not  permitted  to 
continue.  However  I  should  be  most  truly  thankful  for 
them  and  the  calm  they  leave  behind.' 

At  the  beginning  of  the  following  term  little  William, 
who  had  been  at  Dr.  Oke's  school  at  Walthamstow  for 
two  years,  became  one  of  the  fifty  pupils  of  Mr.  Delafosse 
of  Hackney. 

^Journal,  April  7,  1830. — My  dear  girls  had  been  par- 
ticularly brought  before  me  by  looking  over  some  of  their 
memorandums,  and  I  spent  a  very  quiet  evening  with  dear 
William,  and  with  great  pleasure  perceived  his  improve- 
ment in  many  important  things.  I  went  to  bed  with  a 
thankful  heart,  and  whether  asleep  or  awake,  I  had  the 

almost  identical  circumstances.  He  had  just  finished  dinner 
and  was  sitting  in  his  armchair  taking  a  nap,  when  he  passed 
away  in  the  presence  of  his  wife  and  children,  without  a  sigh  or 
a  struggle. 


40  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

most  delightful  ideas  of  being  united  to  my  dear  departed 
ones  to  be  ever  with  God.  I  cannot  describe  them,  but 
every  time  I  awoke  I  felt  so  happy,  which  is  not  generally 
the  case,  for  it  is  then  mostly  that  I  feel  much  depressed  ; 
the  troubles  and  anxieties  of  this  life  appeared  less  than  a 
vapour,  the  greatest  trials  I  thought  were  as  nothing ;  it 
was  a  night  of  great  delight.' 

But  the  poor  gentle  lady's  cup  was  not  full.  She  was 
to  lose  her  last  surviving  daughter.  On  April  22nd  of  this 
year  Louisa,  who  had  been  ailing  for  many  months,  took 
a  chill,  and  at  once  becoming  seriously  ill,  died  a  week 
later. 

'Journal. — I  have  frequently  made  notes  of  my  many 
severe  trials  and  the  many  Mercies  I  have  experienced.  I 
will  endeavour  to  collect  them,  they  may  remind  me  should 
it  ever  be  necessary,  how  the  Almighty  supports  the 
weakest  of  his  creatures.  Those  who  know  me,  know  how 
little  able  (humanly  speaking)  I  was  to  bear  up  against 
affliction  and  endure  fatigue,  but  the  same  Almighty  power 
that  chastened  me,  in  mercy  upheld  me  that  it  might  be 
to  my  profit.  The  awful  question  presents  itself  to  me, 
"  Have  my  trials  worked  in  me  the  good  my  Heavenly 
Father  designed,  or  have  I  resisted  and  not  endeavoured 
by  His  Grace  to  become  His  obedient  servant  and  follow 
my  Blessed  Saviour  in  all  things  ?"  It  is  our  belief  as 
Christians  that  no  affliction  happens  to  us  but  by  the  Will 
of  God.  ...  If  it  should  ever  happen  to  any  of  us  that 
God  should  seem  to  have  gone  out  of  His  way  to  visit  us, 
because  the  blow  may  have  fallen  upon  us  not  once  but 
again  and  oftener,  stripping  us,  it  may  be,  successively  of 
the  treasures  and  supports  of  our  existence,  and  our  hearts 
should  sink  and  our  faith  be  confounded  at  the  extent  of 
our  calamity,  let  us  turn  awhile  in  thought  to  Abraham 
and  consider  his  trials.  .  .  . 

'  For  four  succeeding  years  to  watch  the  deathbeds  and 
close  the  eyes  of  four  beloved  children  !  What  can  I  have 
done  to  have  received  such  chastisement  ?     I  am  humbled 


PARENTAGE  AND  BIRTH  41 

indeed.  They  have  at  times  been  brought  before  me  as 
punishment.  I  would  not  dismiss  the  thought  but  have 
made  it  a  time  of  repentance.  "  How  have  I  done  my 
duty  towards  them  ?"  has  been  another  searching  con- 
sideration. When  first  I  became  a  Widow  my  thought 
when  on  my  knees  was  "  My  duty  as  a  Wife  is  finished, 
how  have  I  fulfilled  it  ?"  These  are  awful  considerations, 
and  we  are  too  apt  to  neglect  calling  ourselves  to  account 
before  the  scene  is  closed.  When  I  look  back  and  think 
what  I  have  gone  through,  I  would  first  acknowledge  with 
gratitude  and  praise  the  mighty  Power  who  has  supported 
me.  I  feel  almost  singled  out.  What  manner  of  person 
ought  I  to  be  ?' 

'Journal,  April  22,  1832  {Easter-Sunday).  —  On  this 
day  1826  I  was  called  on  to  resign  my  dearest  Eliza,  my 
youngest  girl,  a  most  heavenly-tempered  child,  and  one  I 
can  say  that  never  gave  me  any  anxiet}^  or  trouble,  except 
as  to  her  illness.  Oh  my  God  I  beseech  thee  for  thy  sup- 
port during  this  day.  It  was  on  this  day  in  1830  that  my 
dear,  dear,  Lou  attended  at  the  Altar  for  the  last  time. 
Grant  that  I  may  not  be  too  much  overcome,  but  that  my 
thoughts  may  be  so  directed  that  I  may  forget  those  things 
that  are  past,  and  behold  my  dear  children  purified  by 
that  Blood  which  was  shed,  and  which  with  that  Body 
broken  I  am  about  to  partake.  May  my  sinful,  sinful 
body  be  made  clean  by  His  Body  and  my  Soul  washed 
with  His  most  precious  Blood. 

*  {Five  o'clock). — I  thank  thee  O  Heavenly  Father  that 
Thou  hast  enabled  me  to  go  through  this  day  with  com- 
posure of  spirit.  Though  now  my  heart  is  ready  to  burst, 
I  will  rejoice  in  my  dsar  Sister's  happiness.' 

An  endeavour  has  been  made  in  the  preceding  pages  to 
give  a  slight  sketch  of  those  members  of  William  Cotton 
Oswell's  family  whose  characteristics  he  inherited  in  the 
most  remarkable  degree.  The  noble  generosity,  manli- 
ness and  deep  religious  conviction  of  his  grandfather ; 
the  tender,   almost    womanly  devotion    of  his   father  to 


42  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

wife,  children  and  home ;  the  selfless,  loving,  simple 
nature  of  his  mother,  whose  strong  faith  was  proof 
against  eight  consecutive  years  of  the  cruellest  tragedy, 
and  whose  gentleness,  decision,  and  dearly -bought  ex- 
perience made  her  an  ideal  nurse ;  the  affectionate  very 
present  help  in  trouble  of  his  uncles  —  these  were  the 
influences  that  surrounded  him  and  moulded  his  early 
life.  Truly  the  lot  fell  unto  him  in  a  fair  ground.  Yea, 
he  had  a  goodly  heritage  ! 


CHAPTER  II. 

EDUCATION  :     RUGBY    AND     HAILEYBURY. 

1832-1S37.       AGE    14-19. 

Rugby  in  1833 — Dr.  Arnold  a  great  reformer :  '  Lord  Paramount 
of  the  whole  concern  ' — William  Cotton  Oswell  entered 
on  the  boards — Half-holidays  and  '  wiskers' — Aptitude  for- 
classical  versification — '  Monstrous  cute  '  Vaughan — Pride 
in  Dr.  Arnold — '  Signs  and  symbols ' — Escapes  expulsion  ; 
Boughton  Leigh  dispute — Judge  Hughes'  reminiscences 
—  Leaves  Rugby — Discussion  as  to  profession  —  Tour 
through  England — Acceptance  of  writership,  H.E.I.C.S. 
— Dr.  Arnold's  testimonials  —  Haileybury  —  Passes  out 
brilliantly — An  unselfish  mother. 

In  September,  1832,  William  Oswell,  then  aged  four- 
teen, had  passed  over  the  heads  of  boys  of  fifteen,  sixteen, 
even  seventeen,  and  was  at  the  top  of  Mr.  Delafosse's 
school.  His  mother  fully  recognised  the  danger  of  the 
position  for  him,  and  after  consultation  with  her  two 
brothers,  resolved  to  move  him  as  soon  as  he  could  be 
received  elsewhere. 

Four  years  before  this — in  August,  1828 — Dr.  Arnold 
had  become  Headmaster  of  Rugby,  and  already  he  had 
revolutionized  public  school  life.  To  manly,  honourable 
men  such  as  William  and  Benjamin  Cotton,  and  to  a 
woman  accustomed  from  her  infancy  to  manly,  honourable 
men,  there  was  a  peculiar  attractiveness  in  the  thought 
that  it  was  possible  for  the  boy  they  all  loved  so  dearly 
and  understood  so  well,  to  continue  his  education  under  a 


44 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


man  whose  system  was  founded  on  honour  and  manhness. 
Accordingly  they  made  numerous  inquiries,  and  a  letter 
from  her  husband's  closest  friend  finally  decided  Mrs. 
Oswell  on  sending  her  son  to  Rugby  : 


Mr.  Richard  Covfield  to  Mrs.  Oswell. 

'January  14,  1833. 

'  .  .  .     With  respect  to  Rugby  I  had  two  sons  there  in 
1825,  ^i^d  though  the  school  was  then  in  its  decline,  yet  I 

was  very  partial  to  it, 
and  my  sons  will  not 
be  happier  than  they 
were  there. 

'  Under  the  present 
regime  the  School  has 
considerably  increased 
in  numbers,  and  the 
present  Head  Master, 
Dr.  Arnold  (whom  I  do 
not  at  all  know)  being 
a  great  reformer  in 
Church,  as  well  as  that, 
has  placed  the  whole 
of  the  old  system  in 
Schedule  A.  Being 
therefore  one  of  the  oil 
School,  and  seeing  with 
suspicion,  perhaps  with  prejudice,  modern  changes  as 
well  as  those  who  are  given  to  change,  I  am  not  one 
of  the  admirers  of  modern  Rugby,  though  very  likely 
it  may  prove  a  very  good  school — indeed  in  fairness  I 
shall  give  you  the  opinion  of  an  intimate  and  clever  friend 
of  Dr.  Arnold's.  Speaking  of  him  to  me  he  said,  "  He 
is  a  highly  talented  scholar,  but  I  doubt  whether  he  under- 
stands training  winning  horses  for  the  University  prizes  ; 
he    will    however   turn    out    many   good   ones."      Rugby 


DR.    ARNOLD. 


EDUCATION  :  RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY     45 

has  certainly  every  advantage  of  situation  for  a  Public 
School,  being  not  only  central  but  sufficiently  retired ;  dry 
and  healthy,  I  should  say  particularly  so  ;  the  school 
buildings  are  very  handsome  and  admirably  arranged  for 
the  convenience  and  comfort  of  the  boys  ;  a  delightful 
playground  of  ten  acres,  quite  like  a  park  to  the  mansion  ; 
the  town  small,  and  over  which  as  to  Public  Houses,  etc., 
the  Head  Master  has  a  sort  of  Casting-net  Control,  so  that 
he  is  Lord  Paramount  of  the  whole  concern.  It  is  also  a 
cheap  school — about  £"120  per  annum — and  therefore  when 
elder  sons  have  gone  to  Eton  or  Harrow,  younger  ones 
have  generally  been  found  at  Rugby.  Many  sons  of  Mer- 
chants, Clergymen,  and  occasionally  a  sprinkling  of  Aristo- 
cracy are  to  be  met  with.  As  to  the  habits  of  the  School  I 
have  no  doubt  they  are  what  you  would  approve,  for  though 
Dr.  Arnold  is  not  very  popular  with  some  of  the  boys,  he 
has  produced  in  many  instances  within  my  observance 
honourable  and  gentlemanly  feelings.' 

Mrs.  Oswell  at  once  entered  into  correspondence  with 
Dr.  Arnold,  and  on  February  loth,  1833,  her  brother 
Benjamin  took  William  to  Rugby  for  his  entrance  examin- 
ation. 

Benjamin  Cotton  to  his  Sister,  Mrs.  Oswell. 

'  Tuesday,  February  12,  1833. 

'  Although  I  desired  William  to  write  to  you  to-day,  and 
expect  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  on  Thursday,  I  will,  for 
fear  of  his  omission,  send  a  few  lines  to  announce  the 
success  of  my  mission.  We  had  a  fine  day  after  we  passed 
St.  Albans,  and  neither  of  us  suffered  from  the  exposure. 
Nath.  had  been  over  and  after  seeing  Dr.  Arnold  and  Mr. 
Anstey,  left  a  letter  for  me  which  damped  all  my  pros- 
pects. However,  nothing  attempted  nothing  done.  I 
went  to  the  Doctor's  house,  and  after  being  much  pleased 
with  Mrs.  Arnold  and  interesting  her  on  your  behalf,  we 
were  shown  into  the  awful  study  and  entered  William  on 


46 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


the  Boards.  The  Doctor  confirmed  all  I  had  heard  of  his 
house,  Mr.  Grenfell's  and  Mr.  Anstey's  being  perfectly  full, 
and  told  me  the  only  Master's  house  in  which  he  knew  of 
a  vacancy,  was  that  of  a  foreigner,  M.  Pons,  of  whom  he 
spoke  well.  Having  ascertained  that  it  was  not  necessary 
to  determine  for  a  few  days,  I  went  next  morning  to  see 
M.  Pons',  Mr.  Grenfell's,  and  two  other  Masters'  houses, 
and  could  only  obtain  a  conditional  promise  from   Mr. 


DR.  ARNOLD  S  HOUSE,  RUGBY. 


Grenfell  that  if  he  was  disappointed  of  an  expected  Boarder, 
he  would  receive  William.  On  Sunday  a  letter  came  to 
the  Doctor  saying  that  the  pupil  would  not  come  till  the 
20th  of  April,  quarter  day,  and  by  liberal  use  of  Mr.  Charles 
Lane's  name,  which  is  all  powerful  with  Mr.  Grenfell,  I 
persuaded  him  to  receive  William  and  to  make  accommo- 
dation for  another  by  April  ;  and  very  much  pleased  I  am 
at  my  success.  There  are  but  ten  boys  at  Mr.  Grenfell's 
house,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  school,  quite  in 


EDUCATION  :  RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY     47 

the  country,  and  everything  new  and  in  good  style.  I 
dined  with  Mr.  and  Miss  Grenfell  and  the  nine  boys  at 
one  o'clock,  and  a  better  dinner  and  better  served,  I  never 
wish  to  see.  I  found  Mr.  Grenfell,  a  nephew  of  Mr.  Pascoe 
Grenfell,  the  copper  Merchant.  He  has  a  sister  who  would 
please  you  greatly  ;  and  you  may  be  perfectly  satisfied  that 
William  will  be  well  taken  care  of,  and  happy  with  them. 
I  staid  at  Rugby  till  he  came  out  of  school  at  a  quarter 
before  five,  having  passed  his  examination,  but  he  did  not 
know  where  he  was  placed.  More  particulars  you  shall 
have  when  we  meet.  ...  If  not  otherwise  employed  in 
your  service  let  Fordham  bring  my  Gig  and  be  at  the  Light 
office  at  four  or  a  quarter  past,  on  Thursday.  ...  I  trust 
you  have  gained  strength  and  have  not  suffered  by  your 
exertion  in  fitting  out  your  boy.  .  .  .  Mr.  Grenfell  is  quite 
a  young  man,  mild  and  gentlemanly,  and  I  heard  a  very 
good  report  of  the  only  Sixth  Form  boy  in  this  house.  I 
have  stolen  a  list  of  the  School  in  which  you  will  see 
many  names  you  know.  .  .  .  Dr.  Arnold  does  not  in 
any  case  determine  for  the  parents,  further  than  recom- 
mending a  Master's  rather  than  another  Boarding  House. 
I  trust  to  see  a  good  account  of  William  when  I  reach 
Leytonstone.'  .  .  . 

When  William  Oswell  entered  Rugby  he  was  within  ten 
weeks  of  his  fifteenth  year — a  boy  of  whom  any  mother 
might  well  be  proud.  Tall,  lithe  and  active,  his  great 
strength  soon  earned  him  the  nickname  of  '  Muscleman  '  ; 
and  his  singular  beauty  that  of  '  Handsome  Oswell.' 

To  his  Mother. 

'  Rugby, 

'  February  23,  1833. 

' .  .  .  I  am  much  obliged  to  you  for  your  offer  of  milk 
for  my  dogs,  but  do  not  let  them  have  it  without  barley- 
meal  or  some  other  substance  as  it  makes  them  thin,  .  .  . 
I  hope  you  will  have  got  me  another  horse  by  Midsummer. 


48  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

Do  not  get  one  too  small.  I  should  like  one  about  fifteen 
hands  high.  .  .  .  You  say  I  am  much  remembered  by  my 
friends,  for  which  I  thank  them.  This  certainly  proves 
"the  song  of  Lord  Byron,  Absence  makes  the  heart  grow 
fonder,  for  whilst  I  was  at  home  I  am  afraid  not  one  even 
knew  that  such  a  being  existed  as  W.  Oswell,  and  I  am 
now  afraid  they  only  remember  me  as  a  plague  of  which 
they  are  glad  to  get  rid.  Nevertheless  you  can  give  my 
love  to  all  of  them.  .  .  .  Mind  you  get  me  a  horse  if  you 
can.  .  .  .' 

Dogs,  horses,  and  Lord  Byron  were  interesting  to  him 
to  the  end  of  his  life. 

To  his  Brother  Edward. 

'  Rugby, 

'  March  4,  1833. 

' .  .  .  I  am  particularly  comfortable  here  at  Rugby 
sitting  in  a  little  study  of  my  own  with  a  capital  good  fire. 
In  this  study  I  have  breakfast  and  tea.  .  .  .  There  is  not 
half  so  much  fagging  as  I  thought  there  would  be.  I 
believe  I  can  lick  all  the  house  I  am  at.  .  .  .  Our  regular 
number  of  half  holidays  are  three  in  a  week.  We  usually 
have  four,  and  often  five.  We  have  330  boys  here — a 
pretty  tolerable  number  I  consider.  We  ought  to  have  a 
good  XI  at  cricket  and  we  have  got  a  very  good  one  indeed 
by  all  accounts.  There  are  about  thirty  fellows  with  thick 
wiskers,  obliged  to  shave  every  morning,  which  according 
to  my  calculation  must  be  a  great  bore  ;  they  are  much 
older  than  I  have  been  accustomed  to.  .  .  .' 

Modern  Rugby,  with  larger  numbers,  would  seem  to  be 

less  favoured  in  the  matter  of  half  holidays  and  '  thick 

wiskers.' 

To  his  Mother. 

'  Rugby, 

'  March  22,  1833. 

'  .  .  ,  Concerning  the  Tutor  regulation,  there  is  to  be 
no  extra  charge,  and  the  only  thing  the  Tutors  do  is  to 


EDUCATION  :  RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      49 

look  over  the  exercises  we  do  in  School  and  at  the  same 
time  to  explain  our  mistakes  more  minutely  to  us  than 
has  hitherto  been  done,  as  we  have  had  our  exercises 
merely  superficially  looked  over  and  the  faults  marked.  I 
on  my  part  think  this  a  good  regulation.  .  .  .  Tell  Uncle 
Ben  that  though  I  never  did  Greek  Iambics  before  I  came 
here,  I  can  do  them  nearly  as  well  as,  and  in  two  exercises 
more  I  shall  beat,  most  of  the  class.  I  believe  I  am 
(without  much  flattery)  the  best  at  Latin  verses  in  the 
class,  and  hope  soon  to  be  so  in  Greek.  We  either  have 
Milton  or  Shakspere  to  translate  into  Greek  Iambics.  I 
am  afraid  they  have  made  a  new  rule  that  every  boy  must 
stay  in  the  class  he  is  placed  in  a  year.  If  so  I  shall  not 
be  put  out  sooner,  but  if  not  I  think  I  stand  a  fair  chance 
of  being  put  out  at  Midsummer.   .  .  .' 

The  aptitude  for  Greek  and  Latin  versification  rapidly 
developed,  and  before  he  left  Rugby  he  had  attained  to 
such  facility  that  his  assistance  was  in  continual  demand, 
and  he  gladly  gave  it  in  exchange  for  a  stipulated  period 
of  tickling  on  the  face  with  a  feather.  In  later  years 
nothing  soothed  him  more  than  this  when  he  was  worried 
or  in  pain. 

To  his  Mother. 

'  Rugby, 

'  April  10,  1833. 

'  We  had  our  Speeches  to-day,  i.e.,  they  were  recited 
before  a  congregation  formed  out  of  the  lower  orders  of 
Rugby  society.  I  enclose  you  a  card  of  the  Speeches, 
thinking  you  may  like  to  see  it.  You  will  notice  Vaughan's* 
name  twice  on  it ;  he  is  monstrous  cute,  and  besides  the 
prizes  marked  for  him  in  the  list,  has  obtained  another 
which  being  a  minor  prize  he  did  not  recite  publicly. 
Those  on  the  list  are  two  of  the  highest  he  could  possibly 

'■'  The  late  Rev.  C.  J.  Vaugban,  D.D.,  Master  of  the  Temple 
and  Dean  of  Llandaff. 

VOL.    I.  4 


50  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

obtain.  He  is  only  sixteen  !  !  .  .  .  Much  heavier  men 
ride  across  country  in  this  part  of  the  world  than  Uncle 
Ben  ;  why,  I  see  farmers  out  hunting  weighing  upwards 
of  i6  or  17  stone  !  You  ask  whether  Hackney  would  be 
a  good  school  for  Teddy,  or  not.  I  think  not,  for  though 
it  is  excellent  perhaps  in  some  points,  yet  in  others  it  is  to 
be  condemned.  One  of  the  bad  points  is  that  it  is  next 
to  an  impossibility  for  a  boy  who  wants  to  study  to  do  it, 
for  there  is  a  continual  hum  of  voices  which  although  I 
could  learn  in,  being  accustomed  to  it,  Teddy,  being  used 
to  the  quiet  of  a  small  private  school,  I  do  not  think  would 
be  able.  That  is  the  advantage  of  Rugby,  each  form  has 
a  different  school  and  a  separate  master,  who  devotes  his 
entire  time  to  the  good  of  the  boys  in  his  form.  .  .   .' 

Hunting  had  been  the  boy's  chief  delight  since  he  was 
old  enough  to  sit  a  pony.  When  at  home  he  rode  regu- 
larly to  hounds  with  his  Uncle  Ben,  whose  pride  in  the 
pluck  and  daring  of  his  gallant  young  nephew  knew  no 
bounds. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  Mrs.  Oswell  asks  the  advice  of 
her  son,  not  yet  fifteen  years  old,  on  so  important  a  matter 
as  the  sending  of  his  brother  to  school ;  and  in  this  instance 
she  acted  on  it.  This  was  in  keeping  with  her  invariable 
attitude  to  him.  In  those  days  of  rigid  parental  control  and 
consequent  filial  reserve,  she  treated  her  boys  as  reasonable 
responsible  beings,  and  without  losing  her  authority  over 
them,  gave  them  the  freest  rein,  and  was  repaid  by  their 
obedience,  chivalrous  devotion,  and  entire  confidence,  even 
as  to  their  most  serious  love  affairs ! 

To  his  Mother. 

'  Rugby, 

'  September  4,  1833. 

* ....  If  not  too  much  trouble  would  you  be  kind 
enough  to  send  me  a  workbox  for  our  housekeeper  as  a 
little  present.     She  will  not  accept  money.     Let  it  be  a 


EDUCATION  :  RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      51 

good  one  and  rather  a  handsome  one,  as  she  is  a  great  deal 
above  the  common  level  of  housekeepers.  ...  In  your 
next  letter  will  you  look  at  my  bills  and  see  whether  there 
was  any  money  for  "  Glazier,"  as  they  have  called  upon 
me  for  4s.  6d.  for  breaking  windows.  .  .  .  Rugby  is  not 
so  wanting  of  boys  as  it  was  supposed  it  would  have  been 
after  Midsummer ;  we  have  50  new  ones  and  are  only 
minus  20.  We  number  at  this  present  time  310-315. 
Pretty  tolerable !  considering  that  when  Arnold  took  the 
school  there  were  only  135.  .  .  .' 

It  is  characteristic  of  him  that  the  workbox  was  to  be 
*  a  good  one  and  rather  a  handsome  one.'  The  glazier 
item  is  certainly  equally  so  ;  and  one  recognises  with  plea- 
sure the  pride  of  the  boy  in  his  Master. 

In  after  years  he  used  often  to  say  that  many  of  his 
schoolfellows  had  never  spoken  to  Arnold,  and  that  to 
many  more  he  was  not  personally  attractive,  but  that  there 
was  not  a  boy  in  the  school  in  whom  he  failed  to  inspire 
confidence  and  an  aggressive  pride  as  regarded  outsiders, 
a  quality  far  more  remarkable  and  far  more  to  be  desired 
than  mere  popularity. 

Mrs.  Oswell  to  her  Son  Williain. 

'  Leytonstoxe, 

'March  7,  1834. 
'  My  dearest  William, 

'  As  you  say  I  cannot  write  too  often,  I  sit  down. 
Your  last  was  particularly  welcome  to  me  as  I  began  to 
feel  very  anxious  for  a  letter,  but  I  promise  you  I  will  not 
be  very  exorbitant  or  expect  mine  punctually  replied  to 
by  you.  Be  assured  however  yours  are  always  acceptable, 
the  oftener  the  better  and  the  more  they  tell  me  of  your- 
self the  better.  .  .  The  agreement  about  your  allowance 
I  do  not  forget,  but  you  must  promise  me  to  keep  an 
account  book ;  I  do  not  mean  for  my  inspection,  but  you 
are  now  growing  an  old  gentleman  and  it  is  of  great  use  to 

4—2 


52  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

know  the  value  of  money  and  articles.     This  you,  I  dare 
say,  think  is  very  prosy  of  me,  but  sometimes  I  must  put 
in  a  little  good  advice,  though  I  do  not  mean  to  say  you 
are  extravagant,  particularly  in  clothes  !  .   .  . 
'  Accept  my  best  love,  my  dearest  boy,  and 
'  Believe  me, 

'  Your  ever  affectionate  Mother  and  Friend.' 

That  he  gave  the  required  promise  and  punctiliously 
kept  the  account-book,  his  invariable  deference  to  his 
mother's  wishes  leaves  no  room  for  doubt ;  but  it  may 
be  safely  asserted  he  never  kept  another ;  and  it  is  to  be 
feared  that  the  only  value  he  ever  learnt  that  money 
possessed  was  to  buy  '  articles  '  for  someone  else,  to  lend, 
and  to  give  away. 

Mrs.  Oswell  to  her  Son  William  {just  before  his  Confirmation). 

'  My  dearest  William,  '^^"^  ^6,  1834. 

' .  .  .  That   the    Almighty   may  bless,  direct   and 

guide  you  is  my  constant  pra3^er.     I  shall  be  very  glad  to 

hear  from  you,  but  will  not  press  it  if  you  are  engaged. 

There  is  one  thing  I  should  particularly  recommend  you 

to    read,  which  is  the   Baptismal  Service.     I   remember 

Uncle  William  recommended  dear   Emily  to  do   so,  as 

one  of  the  best  preparations  for  Confirmation ;  and  she 

you  know  was  a  sweet  pattern  for  us  all.     I  cannot  help 

hoping  sometimes  she  may  be  permitted  to  look  down 

upon  us ;   and  if  her  happiness  can  be  added  to  by  any 

earthly  circumstance,  it  will  rejoice  her  to  witness  your 

taking  on  yourself  what  was  promised  for  you  at  3'our 

Baptism  ;  for  she  so  tenderly  loved  you  that  your  eternal 

welfare  was  her  affectionate  desire  even  at  the  last.  .  .  . 

A  letter  from  Teddy  tells  me  of  your  having  gained  a 

French  Class.     It  always  cheers  me  to  hear  good  tidings, 

and  particularly  of  you  my  dearest  boy.  .  .     I  wish  this 

was  better  worth  your  reading,  but  such  as  it  is  accept  it 

with  much  love  from  ,  ,^  n-    j.-       i.    nr  i.u      » 

*  Your  affectionate  Mother. 


EDUCATION  :  RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      53 


W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Mother. 

'  Rugby, 

^  June  6,  1834. 

'  .  .  .  The  Rugby  XI  play  the  Arden  on  Friday  week, 
and  a  tolerable  good  dinner  is  given  after  as  a  kind  of 
solace  to  the  beaten  party  and  as  a  rejoicing  to  the 
victors.  Arnold  has  made  a  new  plan  about  going  home ; 
all  of  us  are  to  post,  but  very  luckily  I  have  taken  my 
place  by  the  Independent  and  won't  be  hoaxed  into 
changing  it.  .  .  One  of  my  study  companions  leaves 
me  next  half  which  is  rather  a  good  thing  in  some 
respects,  but  bad  in  others  as  I  shall  have  to  teach  the 
other  all  the  signs  and  symbols,  which  this  one,  although 
his  head  is  none  of  the  most  retentive,  has  learnt  to  such 
perfection  that  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  speak  one  word, 
for  any  ordinary  purpose,  during  a  day.  On  the  other 
hand  he  understands  no  more  Greek  than  a  donkey,  not 
having  yet  mounted  the  Arduous  steep  of  the  second  form. 
Of  this  language  he  is  so  totally  ignorant,  that  he  is 
incapable  even  of  acting  as  my  under  Lexicon  researcher, 
which  is  most  grievous,  as  that  office  necessarily  devolves 
in  nearly  all  its  weight  on  me,  and  although  I  do  not 
admire  the  plan  of  fagging,  yet  nevertheless  two  or  three 
words  are  usually  obliged  to  be  searched  for  in  each  lesson 
if  I  deign  to  look  at  it.  But  really  I  sometimes  take  the 
trouble,  remember  for  your  sake,  to  answer  a  question 
now  and  then,  or  rather  to  make  a  tolerable  guess  at  it, 
and  have  so  far  worked  up  that  I  believe  I  am  pretty  well 
sure  of  raising  myself  a  couple  of  forms.  If  you  remember 
I  have  already  been  put  up  in  French,  so  that  of  course  I 
shall  not  be  put  up  again,  as  that  only  belongs  to  those 
who  superabound  in  wisdom — pshaw  ! — faggiJig  I  mean. 
There  are  not  above  four  clever  fellows  in  the  School. 
That  one  who  got  the  Merton  Scholarship  is  only 
tolerable.  .  .' 


54  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

One  wonders  what  were  '  all  the  signs  and  symbols 
which  this  one  has  learnt  to  such  perfection,'  and  what 
was  the  advantage  to  a  bright  and  talkative  boy  in  finding 
it  '  hardly  necessary  to  speak  one  word  for  any  ordinary 
purpose  during  a  day.' 

A  few  weeks  later  he  narrowly  escaped  expulsion. 
Judge  Hughes  thus  describes  the  incident: 

'  We  all  knew  that  the  school  paid  a  good  rent  for  the 
fields  on  the  Rugby  side  of  the  Avon,  where  were  the 
bathing  places,  and  assumed  that  this  included  the  right 
of  netting  the  river.  This  was  disputed  by  the  owner 
of  the  Brownsover  bank,  and  many  squabbles  and  colli- 
sions arose  between  the  boys  and  Mr.  Boughton  Leigh's 
watchers  and  keepers.  At  last  the  crisis  came  when  a 
keeper  tried  one  day  to  seize  the  nets  and  the  boys 
ducked  him  in  the  river.  Complaint  was  at  once  made 
fo  Arnold,  who  appealed  to  the  Sixth  to  find  and  give  up 
the  names  of  those  concerned,  but  nothing  came  of  it. 
So  at  the  next  calling  over  the  Doctor  appeared  with  the 
Squire  and  the  keeper  to  identify  the  boys  who  had  ducked 
the  latter.  Probably  Arnold's  power  of  ruling  was  never 
put  to  so  severe  a  test,  for  the  whole  school  was  against 
him,  and  the  praepostors  of  the  week — the  four  Sixth  Form 
boys — instead  of  stilling  the  tumult,  walked  up  and  down 
the  big  school  calling  out,  "  S-s-s-ilensce."  However,  he 
prevailed,  the  names  were  at  last  called,  and  as  the  boys 
passed  out  the  keeper  identified  five,  who  were  then  and 
there  expelled.  After  fifty  years  the  names  may  be  safely 
given — Cox,  Price,  Torkington,  Wynniatt,  Peters,  cock 
of  the  school,  and  another  I  have  forgotten,  unless  it 
was  Gaisford,  son  of  the  Dean  of  Christchurch — names 
treasured  as  those  of  heroes  for  following  generations  ! 
A  tremor  ran  through  the  school  as  Oswell,  handsomest 
and  most  renowned  of  athletes,  passed  out ;  but  he  was 
not  recognised.' 

We  are  indebted,  too,  to  Judge  Hughes  for  the  follow- 
ing charming  description  of  his  school-fellow  hero  : 


EDUCATION  :  RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      55 

'  Though  we  small  boys  were  proud  in  a  way  of  Stanley 
and  Vaughan,  of  Clough  and  Burbidge,  and  other  scholars 
and  poets,  we  looked  on  them  more  as  providential  pro- 
viders of  extra  half-holidays  than  with  the  enthusiasm  of 
hero-worship.  This  we  reserved  for  the  Kings  of  the 
Close,  round  whom  clustered  legends  of  personal  en- 
counters with  drovers  at  the  monthly  cattle  fairs  (which 
were  held  in  High  Street  and  came  right  up  to  the  school 
gates,  tempting  curious  yokels  to  trespass  on  the  sacred 
precincts),  or  the  navvies  who  were  laying  down  the  first 
line  of  the  London  and  North  Western  Railway,  or  the 
gamekeepers  of  a  neighbouring  squire  with  whom  the 
school  was  in  a  state  of  open  war,  over  the  right  of  fishing 
in  the  Avon.  I  did  not  myself  share  in  this  rather  in- 
discriminate enthusiasm,  for  the  Kings  of  the  Close  were 
as  a  rule  a  rough  and  hard  set  of  taskmasters,  who  fagged 
us  for  whole  afternoons  and  were  much  too  ready  with 
the  cane. 

'  But  for  this  very  reason  I  had  all  the  more  to  bestow 
on  the  one  who,  to  my  boyish  imagination,  stood  out  from 
the  rest  as  Hector  from  the  rest  of  the  Trojan  Princes: 
and  this  hero  was  William  Oswell.  It  was  not  from  any 
personal  knowledge  of,  or  contact  with  him,  for  we  were 
at  different  boarding-houses,  and  at  opposite  ends  of  the 
school ;  and  I  doubt  whether  he  ever  spoke  to  me  in  his 
life,  though  I  often  shared  his  kindly  nod  and  smile  when 
we  met  in  the  close  or  quadrangle.  It  was  the  rare  mixture 
of  kindliness  and  gentleness  with  marvellous  strength, 
activity  and  fearlessness  which  made  him  facile  princeps 
among  his  contemporaries.  I  don't  believe  he  ever  struck 
a  small  boy  or  even  spoke  to  one  in  anger.  And  so  there 
was  no  drawback  to  the  enthusiasm  with  which  one 
watched  him  leading  a  charge  at  football,  or  bowling  in  a 
big  side  match,  or  jumping  two  or  three  pegs  higher  on 
the  gallows  than  any  other  boy.  He  cleared  eighteen  feet 
nine  inches  in  Clifton  brook,  which  means,  as  you  know, 
twenty  feet  from  take-off  to  landing.     No  doubt  his  good 


56  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

looks  added  to  the  fascination  ;  he  stood  six  feet  high  in 
his  stockings  when  he  left  school,  at  eighteen,  but  did  not 
look  his  height  from  the  perfection  of  his  figure — broad  in 
shoulders,  thin  in  flank,  and  so  well  developed  that  he  was 
called  "  The  Muscleman." 

'  I  will  give  one  instance  of  his  early  prowess  in  athletics. 
I  do  not  know  what  the  record  has  been  in  late  years,  but 
in  my  time  Parr  was  the  only  man  who  was  ever  known  to 
have  thrown  a  cricket-ball    a  hundred  yards  both  ways. 


THE    PLAYING    FIELDS,    RUGBY. 

No  record  was  kept  here,  but  this  I  saw  Oswell  do  :  From 
a  group  of  boys  at  a  wicket  on  Little  Side  ground  as  it 
then  was,  he  threw  a  cricket  ball  over,  as  I  believe,  or  at 
any  rate  through,  the  great  elms  (which  were  then  standing 
in  a  close  row  at  right  angles  to  the  school  buildings)  into 
the  Doctor's  garden,  for  there  it  was  picked  up.  Measure 
it  how  you  will,  that  throw  must  have  been  considerably 
over  a  hundred  yards.  He  left  a  great  blank  in  the  school 
life  when  he  left. 


EDUCATION  :  RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      57 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Aunt  Louisa  Cotton. 

'  Rugby, 

'  April  20,  1835. 

'  .  .  .  .  You  had  a  great  share  of  my  late  thoughts,  I 
have  sat  nearly  half  an  hour  since  writing  the  last  half- 
sheet.  For  I  being,  like  a  fool  as  I  am,  rather  dull,  was 
thinking  of  those  pleasant  days  which  by  your  kindness  we 
spent  at  Southend,  and  was  wondering  whether  such  days 
would  ever  return,  not  at  Southend  in  particular,  but  any- 
where.    I  decided  not They  were  the  most  happy 

days  I  remember,  though  perhaps  you  consider  I  am  gay 

enough  in  general My  only  object  in  writing  this 

was  to  ask  you  how  my  mother  is,  for  she  does  not  write 
as  if  in  good  spirits.'  .  .  . 

This  letter  was  written  at  the  beginning  of  a  curious 
restlessness  and  depression  which  took  possession  of  the 
boy  at  this  time.  Not  much  more  than  two  years  had 
passed  since  he  wrote  to  his  mother  that  one  of  the  boys 
was  '  much  older  than  I  have  been  accustomed  to,'  and 
now  he  felt  older  than  the  oldest.  He  was  eager  to  leave 
school  and  begin  the  career  to  which  his  inclination 
strongly  disposed  him — that  of  a  soldier. 

As  a  child  he  had  as  eagerly  desired  to  be  a  sailor,  but 
the  mother's  heart  was  still  bleeding  from  the  loss  of  four 
children,  and  she  could  not  make  up  her  mind  to  part 
with  either  of  the  two  left,  least  of  all  with  '  her  dearest 
boy  ' ;  and  he  was  obliged  to  solace  himself  with  Marryat's 
or  Fenimore  Cooper's  novels,  which  he  read  till  he  knew 
them  almost  by  heart.  Now,  however,  she  considered  it 
would  be  selfish  to  thwart  his  wish,  and  long  and  anxious 
were  the  conversations  she  had  with  her  brothers,  on  the 
receipt  of  each  fresh  letter  from  him. 

To  her  Son  William. 
'  My  dearest  Boy,                                   '/""^  4>  i835- 
'  Our  letters  crossed  on  the  road.     I  wish  mine  may 
have  been  as  welcome  to  you,  as  yours  was  to  me 


58  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

You  say  you  should  like  not  to  remain  another  half  at 
Rugby.  I  cannot  tell  you  how  anxiously  I  am  looking 
forward  to  the  prospect  of  some  plan  being  settled  that 
will  please  you,  my  dear  boy,  and  be  likely  to  be  eligible. 
I  think  of  you  night  and  day.  I  know  uncle  William's 
wish  was  that  there  should  be  some  prospect  of  employ- 
ment before  you  left,  and  that  you  should  have  some  time 
between  leaving  and  entering  upon  it,  that  you  might 
enjoy  yourself  either  by  Land  or  Water,  but  remember 
dear  William  you  have  too  affectionate  a  mother  to  keep 
you  on  even  a  quarter,  unless  it  was  agreeable  to  you,  or 
you  could  reconcile  yourself  to  it.  I  sincerely  hope  some 
plan  will  be  thought  of  before  we  meet.  Uncle  William 
is  much  interested  about  you  and  is  much  pleased  at  the 
standing  you  have  gained.  He  does  not  object  to  the 
Army,  but  then  it  must  be  the  Indian,  and  how  far  you 
would  like  that,  my  dear  boy,  will  require  your  consider- 
ation. It  shall  be  my  constant  desire  to  promote  every 
wish  of  yours  that  lies  in  my  power. 

'  Many  things  shortly  may  turn  up  that  you  may  pre- 
fer ;  I  own  I  am  disappointed  that  they  have  not  done  so 
already,  but  I  will  hope  it  is  for  the  best.  Do  not  be  dis- 
couraged, you  have  many  kind  friends,  together  with 
health,  strength  and  good  abilities  for  anything  you  can 

undertake 

'  With  my  very  best  wishes, 

'  Believe  me,  my  dear  bo}', 
'  Your  ever  affectionate  Mother  and  Friend.' 

In  quite  a  different  strain  is  the  following  letter.  The 
postscript  happily  illustrates  her  confidence  in  her  son  and 
the  serenity  of  her  mind  in  trouble : 

'July  II,  1835. 
'  My  dear  William, 

'  Perhaps  I  ought  to  have  had  a  blackedged  sheet 
of  paper   as  you  have  lost  an  old,  faithful  friend.     On 


EDUCATION  :   RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      59 

Saturday  night  the  6th  inst  —  Dash  Esq  departed  this 
life  without,  we  hope,  much  suffering.  Thomas  found 
him  on  the  mat  at  the  back  door  in  the  morning ;  he  lay 
in  state  on  Sunday,  and  on  Monday  a  decent  funeral  was 
bestowed  on  him.  Fordham  preceded,  and  dug  his  grave 
under  the  willow ;  Thomas  bore  his  remains,  and  young 
Frank  acted  as  Chief  Mourner;  Aunt  Louisa  and  I  followed 
at  a  respectful  distance.  Poor  fellow,  this  hot  weather 
would  have  tried  him  very  much.  He  had  not  been  up- 
stairs for  three  days,  though  the  evening  before  he  appeared 
much  as  usual.  ...  I  have  not  erected  any  monument 
over  him.  A  few  Latin  or  English  verses  must  be  com- 
posed. .  .  . 

'  Believe  me,  my  dearest  William, 

'  Your  affectionate  Mother. 

'  P.S. — I  do  not  like  you  should  not  know  that  Brassey 
and  Lier  have  failed.  Happily  I  have  not  lost  much.  It 
has  vexed  me  a  little,  but  will  not  be  of  much  consequence. 
I  will  tell  you  more  another  time.  I  thought  you  might 
see  it  in  the  paper.  My  dividends  will  soon  be  due  again, 
and  it  will  make  but  little  difference  to  us.' 

He  left  Rugby  at  the  end  of  the  Summer  Term  1835, 
and  after  a  few  days  at  home,  joined  his  uncle  William  at 
Tunbridge  Wells. 

William  Cotton  to  his  Sister  Mrs.  Oswcll. 

'  Tunbridge  Wells, 

'July  27,  1835. 

*  We  were  very  glad  to  see  William  on  Saturday  who 
arrived  in  good  time  for  our  early  dinner  and  took  a  ride 
with  us  in  the  evening.  I  have  this  morning  had  an  hour's 
conversation  with  him  on  his  future  arrangements.  Setting 
aside  the  ordinary  occupation  of  young  men  in  business 
in  copying  letters  and  sitting  at  a  desk,  which  I  should 
not  think  desirable  for  him,  I  have  endeavoured  to  explain 


6o  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

the  course  which  I  should  think  it  sensible  of  him  to  take, 
to  acquire  commercial  knowledge,  first  at  a  foreign  Uni- 
versity, and  then  in  a  foreign  Counting  House.  He  did 
not  appear  inclined  to  Commercial  occupation,  and  said 
he  should  much  prefer  going  into  the  Indian  Army.  I 
put  it  to  him  that  if  not  disposed  to  Commercial  engage- 
ments, he  might  direct  his  attention  to  a  manufacturing 
or  mechanical  business  or  that  of  a  Civil  Engineer.  To 
this  he  objected  his  want  of  mathematical  knowledge 
and  his  disinclination  to  the  study.  We'  talked  over  the 
English  Army — the  difficulty  and  expense  of  obtaining 
promotion,  and  the  want  of  intellectual  occupation  for 
those  who  have  not  interest  or  money  to  obtain  high 
stations.  I  offered  to  make  some  enquiry  about  the 
Artillery  at  Woolwich,  but  he  said  he  should  prefer  a 
cavalry  appointment  in  India.  We  had  some  talk  about 
the  Sea  Service,  and  should  any  serious  obstacle  occur  to 
his  going  to  India  or  to  his  occupation  here,  I  think  it 
might  be  deserving  of  consideration  if  he  had  not  better 
make  a  few  voyages  to  India,  and  then  pursue  the  sailor's 
life  if  any  opening  occurred  ;  or  settle  in  England  in  some 
occupation  connected  with  shipping,  as  by  that  time  they 
may  have  again  become  profitable.  There  are  one  or  two 
objections  to  this  arrangement  :  that  the  Sea  Service  is 
not,  and  will  not  be,  what  it  has  hitherto  been — a  respect- 
able and  Gentlemanly  profession ;  and  we  may  entertain 
some  doubt  if  the  Continuation  of  sea  voyages  and  sea 
provisions,  would  ultimately  suit  him.  There  are,  I  think 
many  things  to  reconcile  us  to  his  going  to  India  :  the 
probability  that  the  occupation,  the  climate  and  the  liberal 
provision  for  his  comfort  will  suit  him,  and  that  his  attach- 
ment to  horses  and  active  exertions  and  pursuits  will  be 
supplied,  with  rational  occupation.  In  the  Indian  Army 
he  will  have  inducements  to  improve  his  mind  and  to 
qualify  himself  for  situations  of  honour  and  usefulness. 
And  on  the  whole,  without  being  very  decided  in  my 
opinion,  I  think  the  bearing  of  my  mind  is  in  favour  of 


EDUCATION  :   RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      6i 

the  course  his  own  incHnation  points  to.  All  this  how- 
ever requires  more  consideration  ;  the  choice  between  a 
commercial  life  and  a  profession  should  not  be  hastily 
made.  The  selection  of  either  one  or  the  other  of  the 
different  professional  and  commercial  occupations  is  a 
great  difficulty.  Nine  times  out  of  ten  the  selection  is 
made  from  peculiar  opportunities  which  do  not  at  present 
guide  us.  Under  all  the  circumistances  of  health  and 
inclination,  should  India  be  the  scene  of  his  occupation 
the  difference  between  a  civil  appointment  and  a  military 
and  if  the  former  is  obtainable  should  be  well  considered. 
My  wife  desires  her  love  and  a  kiss  to  little  A.  B.  C.  .  .'* 

A  month  later  he  fulfilled  a  promise  made  long  before. 
Starting  from  his  house  at  Leytonstone  in  his  own  carriage, 
and  travelling  slowly,  he  took  his  nephew  to  all  the  prin- 
cipal ports  and  manufacturing  centres  of  England.  They 
remained  at  each  town  until  they  had  seen  and  digested 
everything  it  had  to  show.  William  Cotton's  position 
gave  him  the  entree  everywhere,  and  his  commercial  and 
mechanical  genius  made  him  a  most  admirable  guide  ; 
so  that  his  nephew  laid  in  a  solid  stock  of  information 
during  this  expedition  which  lasted  him  his  life. 

William  Cotton  to  Mrs.  Oswcll.  ,    „ 

' 1835- 

'  .  .  .  William  will  give  you  an  account  of  our  journey, 
of  that  therefore  I  shall  say  nothing.  We  have  been  per- 
fectly happy  and  comfortable  together,  and  there  has  been 
every  inclination  on  the  part  of  your  boy  to  make  himself 
useful  and  agreeable  to  the  old  fellow.  We  have  seen 
much,  as  I  was  anxious  not  to  miss  any  opportunity  to  lay 
in  a  store  for  pleasant  and  useful  reflection.  We  have 
returned  rarely  burnt  but  better  in  health  and  substance. 
The  air  and  exertion  have  agreed  with  William,  and  I 
hope  you  will  think  him  looking  well.     We  had  not  much 

'■'  His  youngest  son. 


62  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

conversation  on  his  future  plans,  except  that  from  his 
observations  he  does  not  hke  the  idea  of  any  business  or 
manufacture,  and  he  told  me  to-day  that  his  opinion  was 
the  same  as  when  at  Tonbridge.  I  am  confirmed  in  my 
opinion  that  a  sedentary  life  will  not  suit  him.  I  should 
have  preferred  the  civil  to  the  military  service  in  India, 
but  if  a  son  of  my  own  had  taken  a  fancy  to  a  military  life, 
I  should  say  the  military  service  in  India  is  the  best. 
With  every  disposition  to  assist  you,  I  feel  a  hesitation 
and  difficulty  in  advising,  but  considering  all  the  circum- 
stances, if  William  was  my  son,  I  should  follow  up  the 
bent  of  his  inclination  and  accept  a  cavalry  cadetship  for 
him  in  India.' 

Finding  the  boy's  heart  was  set  upon  the  Indian  Army, 
and  that  their  brother  William,  on  whose  judgment  they 
placed  great  reliance,  was  disposed  to  favour  the  idea, 
Mrs.  Oswell  and  Benjamin  Cotton  offered  no  further  oppo- 
sition, though  they  both  hoped  and  believed  circum- 
stances might  arise  that  would  induce  him  to  remain  in 
England.  It  was  therefore  a  surprise,  and  not  altogether 
a  pleasant  one,  when  their  brother  John,  who  was  a 
director  of  the  East  India  Company,  without  previously 
consulting  them,  obtained  and  placed  at  his  disposal  the 
offer  of  a  writership  : 

John  Cotton  to  W.  Cotton  Oswell. 

'  Oriental  Club, 

'Nov.  23,  1835. 

'  I  am  very  anxious,  and  so  I  may  say  are  all  your 
friends,  that  you  should  well  consider  the  option  you  now 
have  of  going  out  to  India  in  the  Civil  Service  rather  than 
in  the  Military,  and  not  injure  or  defeat  your  future  pros- 
pects in  Life  by  a  hasty  decision.  I  have  therefore  not  had 
any  communication  with  Mr.  Ellice  on  the  subject  of  his 
kind  offer,  but  will  let  the  matter  remain  over  till  I  return 
to  Town  in  next  week.     There  is  not,  I  am  sure,  anyone  at 


EDUCATION  :   RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      63 

all  acquainted  with  the  two  Services  in  India,  who  would 
not  at  once  give  you  all,  and  everyone,  the  same  advice, 
and  say  that  you  would  not  be  in  India  a  week  before 
you  would  deeply  regret  the  choice  you  made  of  the 
Military  in  preference  to  the  Civil.  Do  let  me  therefore 
strongly  recommend  you  to  submit  to  the  judgment  and 
experience  of  others  in  this  instance.  The  discipline  of 
the  College  at  Haylebury  is  nothing  to  what  you  are  to 
expect  in  the  Military  line  of  the  Service,  and  really  my 
opinion  is  that  if  you  were  to  go  there  you  would  easily 
get  out  in  two  terms,  that  is  one  year.  But  I  wish  you 
now  very  seriously  to  weigh  this  Matter  in  your  Mind  and 
then  to  give  me  your  determination  in  writing  that  there 
may  be  no  mistake ;  and  be  assured  that  I  will  then  do 
all  I  can  to  further  your  views  and  wishes.  If  you  go  to 
Haylebury  your  Mother  will  have  you  so  much  longer 
near  her,  and  you  will  then,  I  trust,  before  you  leave, 
have  the  happiness  of  seeing  her  in  much  stronger  health 
than  she  is  at  present.' 

The  following  day  brought  him  a  letter  on  the  same 
subject  from  Benjamin  Cotton's  colleague  at  the  Trinity 
House : 

'  Light  Office, 

'  Nov.  24,  1835. 

'  .  .  .  The  intelligence  I  heard  yesterday  concerning 
the  offered  appointment  for  India,  has  brought  to  my 
mind  a  short  conversation  we  had  a  little  time  since  in 
which  you  expressed  a  strong  objection  to  the  Civil 
Service.  However,  as  there  had  not  been  a  Writership 
then  placed  at  your  disposal,  you  could  not  so  deeply 
have  considered  the  subject  as  is  now  required  for  you  to 
do,  both  in  duty  to  yourself  and  relatives  ;  if  that  can 
be  said  to  require  deep  consideration,  the  advantages  of 
which  are  notorious.  Perhaps  my  dear  friend  you  will 
say,  "What  the  Deuce  is  it  to  yoit  where  or  how  I  go  ?" 
But  surely  we  are  all  bound  to  assist  each  other  with  any 


64  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

advice  or  suggestion  which  either  the  circumstance  of 
more  general  experience  has  given,  or  where  we  have 
particular  information.  To  your  family  I  have  consider- 
able obligations,  and  it  is  in  few  cases  only  that  the 
opportunity  offers  of  shewing  in  what  estimation  such 
kindness  is  felt.  These  are  my  excuses  for  venturing  to 
say  a  few  words.  I  will  not  fancy  to  myself  that  I  can 
say  anything  that  others  have  not  said  before  and  better, 
altho'  I  much  fear,  at  present,  with  little  success.  My 
dear  William  Oswell,  this  must  be  because  you,  having  set 
your  mind  on  one  object,  will  not  allow  it  so  to  expand  as 
to  admit  even  the  consideration  of  any  other.  But  do  so 
my  dear  Friend,  and  it  cannot  lead  you  to  any  decision 
but  the  one  which  will  give  such  deep  satisfaction  to  your 
beloved  and  excellent  Mother,  and  your  very  numerous 
friends.  A  steady  residence  of  one  year  at  College,  and 
your  work  is  over.  You  arrive  in  India  with  an  appoint- 
ment which  in  a  very  short  time  gives  a  competent 
income,  and  in  result  a  handsome  independence ;  your 
hours  of  business  and  recreation  being  almost  at  your  own 
disposal.  In  the  Army  how  different !  Income  small  in 
comparison,  and  progressing  with  tardy  steps ;  the  hours 
of  drill  occupy  the  best  part  of  the  day  for  out  of  door 
exercise,  and  the  controul  under  which  juniors  are 
placed,  and  the  submission  required,  are  very  irksome 
and  burdensome  to  most  young  men.  Look  also  at  the 
difference  should  ill  health  require  you  to  retire  early,  or 
even  to  visit  Europe.  All  this  you  must  surely  know, 
and  have  but  to  admit  into  your  consideration  that  you 
may  be  led  to  the  better  choice.  Pray  consider  this  note 
as  one  of  friendship,  and  do  not  look  upon  it  as  or  impute 
it  to  uncalled  for  interference.  Offer  my  bounden  respects 
to  Mrs.  Oswell,  whose  journey  I  hope  has  not  been  one 
of  much  fatigue,  and 

'  Ever  believe  me  to  be, 

'  Your  sincere  friend  and  earnest  well-wisher, 

'  Philip  Smith  Duval.' 


EDUCATION  :   RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      65 

At  first  William  Oswell  was  inclined  to  resent  what  he 
not  unnaturally  regarded  as  a  species  of  coercion,  but 
ultimately,  after  careful  and  intelligent  consideration,  he 
yielded  to  the  arguments  advanced  in  these  two  letters, 
and  announced  his  readiness  to  forego  his  cherished 
project  of  the  Indian  Army  in  favour  of  the  Civil  Service. 
It  was  arranged  he  should  go  to  Haileybury,  then  the 
Training  College  for  the  Company's  Service,  in  the  fol- 
lowing January.  Meanwhile,  as  the  authorities  required 
references  from  his  last  school,  he  wrote  to  Dr.  Arnold, 
who  forwarded  them  without  delay  : 

'  Fox  How, 

'  December  21,  1835, 

*  Mr.  Oswell  was  for  some  time  at  Rugby  School 
under  my  care,  and  his  general  conduct  was  regular  and 
gentlemanly.  .  t.  Arnold, 

'  Headmaster  of  Rugby  School. 

'  Mr.  W.  Oswell  was  with  me  at  Rugby  from  February 
1833  to  July  1835,  in  the  course  of  the  time  he  passed 
through  the  Shell,  the  Lower  Fifth,  the  Middle  Fifth  and 
Upper  Fifth,  Forms  of  the  School.  From  the  masters  of 
these  forms  I  constantly  received  creditable  reports  of  his 
progress  in  the  Greek  and  Latin  Classics,  and  Modern 
History.  Previous  to  his  leaving  the  School  he  had  read 
Thucydides,  Demosthenes,  Sophocles  and  ^^schylus,  Livy 
and  Horace  and  Cicero's  Orations.  He  was  a  very  fair 
French  Scholar  and  had  made  some  progress  in  Euclid 
and  Algebra.  His  compositions  were  spirited  and  indi- 
cated a  good  deal  of  general  knowledge.  Of  his  conduct 
and  character  I  have  already  expressed  my  opinion.  He 
is  capable  of  much.' 

His  house-master,  Mr.  Grenfell,  appended  a  few  lines  : 

'To  the  above  testimonials  I  am  happy  to  add  that  Mr. 
W.  C.   Oswell  boarded  in   my  house  during  his  stay  at 
VOL.   I.  5 


66  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

Rugby,  and  that  I  have  every  reason  to  speak  highly  of  his 
general  conduct,  and  of  his  attention  to  the  work  of  the 
school.' 

In  January,  1836,  he  passed  into  Haileybury,  and  thus 
modestly  acknowledges  his  mother's  congratulations  : 

'  Haileybury  College, 

'Jan.  27,  1836. 

'  There  was  not  one  single  man  plucked  passing  inwards, 
so  that  it  would  have  been  a  terrible  thing  to  have  been 
the  only  one.  But  I  am  much  afraid  (and  in  saying  this  I 
really  mean  it)  that  I  shall  find  it  a  very  different  thing 
passing  out  again.  If  I  am  plucked  I  suppose  I  may  still 
have  a  chance  of  going  out  in  the  Military.  But  I  am 
croaking  before  my  time,  so  I  am,  we  will  therefore  drop 
that  subject  and  hope  for  the  best.' 

To  his  Mother. 

'  Haileybury  College, 

'Feb.  q,  1836. 

*  I  have  had  a  most  terrible  pain  in  my  face.  ...  It 
quite  paralysed  my  jaw  for  the  time  it  lasted.     It  came  on 

about  four  and  lasted  till   seven I  find  Sanscrit 

pretty  tough  ;  it  has  eight  declensions,  and  seventy-two 
cases  in  each — rather  pleasant !  and  besides  this  a  very  hard 
character,  the  vowels  mostly  being  put  before  the  conso- 
nants and  sounded  after.     Persian  is  easy  enough.' 

He  was  all  his  life  subject  to  this  curious  pain  in  the 
face,  or  rather  jaw,  when  fever  was  on  him,  and  relief  could 
only  be  obtained  by  the  inhalation  of  chloroform. 

It  certainly  indicates  a  remarkable  force  of  character 
and  strength  of  will  in  the  boy,  who,  having  set  his  heart  on 
one  profession,  was  able  not  only  to  turn  his  attention  to 
another,  but  by  concentrating  all  his  energies  and  ability 


EDUCATION  :   RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      67 

upon  it  to  obtain  in  eleven  months  such  a  report  and  testi- 
monial as  follows  : — 

November,  1836. 

Classics        ...         ...  Great  Progress.     Prize. 

Mathematics  ...  Some  Progress. 

Political  Economy  . . .  Good  Progress. 

Law...         ...         ...  Good  Progress. 

Sanscrit       ...  ...  Great  Progress.     Third  in  year. 

Persian        ...         ...  Great  Progress.     Fourth  in  year. 

'  Haileybury, 

'  Dec.  6,  1836. 

'  We,  the  Principal  and  Professors  of  the  East  India 
College,  do  hereby  testify  that  William  Cotton  Oswell 
entered  College,  January,  1836,  .  .  .  has  resided  therein 
two  terms  .  .  .  and  has  also  attended  the  Public  Ex- 
aminations of  May,  1836,  and  of  December,  1836,  when  he 
obtained  a  Prize  in  Classics,  and  was  highly  distinguished 
in  other  Departments.  The  College  Council,  in  consider- 
ation of  his  Industry,  Proficiency  and  Conduct,  place  him 
in  the  First  Class  of  merit,  and  assign  him  the  rank  of 
Second  on  the  List  of  Students  now  leaving  College  for 

the  Presidency  of  Fort  St.  George 

'  (Signed)  J.  H.  Batten, 

'  Principal.'' 

The  next  five  months  he  spent  in  visiting  all  his  friends 
and  relations.  His  approaching  departure  accentuated  his 
extreme  popularity  ;  and  the  consciousness  that  his  future 
was  settled  to  the  general  satisfaction,  increased  his  natural 
flow  of  high  spirits.  His  mother  was  not  behindhand  in 
speeding  his  parting,  and  up  to  the  very  day  of  his  leaving 
home,  September  14th,  1837,  assumed  a  cheerfulness  and 
contentment  she  was  very  far  from  feeling.  Her  great 
unselfishness,  however,  enabled  her  to  deceive  completely 
even  those  who  knew  her  best.     Her  sister  Louisa  wrote 

5—2 


68  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

strongly  on  the  subject,  pointing  out  that  she  might 
justifiably  have  placed  her  influence  in  the  scale  against 
William's  going  out  of  England,  having  regard  to  her 
loneliness  and  delicate  health. 

She   took   the    interference    meekl}-    and    replied  with 
wonderful  gentleness : 

'  You  said  in  }Our  letter,  m}-  dear  Louisa,  you  wondered 
how  I  could  have  made  up  my  mind  to  William's  going, 
and  that  you  did  not  think  I  was  justified  in  so  doing.  I 
have  by  many  heavy  afflictions  been  so  called  upon  to  sacri- 
fice selfish  feeling,  that  though  I  may  bitterl}-  feel  afiem-ards, 
yet  my  present  feelings  are  completely  set  aside,  when  my 
dear  Children's  interest  is  in  the  case,  or  duty  calls  on  me 
to  resign  what  I  consider  most  to  m}'  happiness.  I  do  not 
say  this  to  boast  of  my  own  resignation,  but  I  have  been 
brought  to  it  by  heavy  dispensations.  Listen  to  me  and 
see  how  matters  have  now  brought  me  to  this  painful 
thought  that  a  few  months  must  soon  separate  me  from  my 
dearest  boy.  I  could  almost  sa}'  my  best-beloved.  When 
he  came  from  Rugb}-,  and  the  Indian  Army  was  thought 
of,  he  having  expressed  an  inclination  for  a  military  life, 
Benjamin's  remark  was  that  if  he  did  not  like  it  after  a 
year  or  two,  he  could  but  come  back  again,  and  as  a  young 
man  could  not  in  these  times  get  employment  in  the 
Country  till  one  or  two  and  twenty,  he  might,  he  thought, 
be  more  inclined  to  settle  on  his  return.  Our  brother 
William  likewise  advised  me  to  rest  and  consider  the  thing 
settled  for  a  few  months.  The  first  time  I  heard  of  any- 
civil  appointment  being  thought  of  was  when  calling  on 
Mrs.  Dickenson,  at  Brighton,  and  Mrs.  D.  said  John  was 
negociating  for  one  for  me.  I  must  say  I  \vas  a  little  sur- 
prised as  he  never  said  a  word  to  me.  I  felt  in  a  grea 
hurrj'  to  get  home.  When  I  did,  I  found  W.  had  had  two 
letters  on  the  subject.  Brother  W.  advised  the  plan  of 
his  going  to  Haileybur}'  as  a  manner  of  passing  two  years 
to    advantage.       I   trust    an    overruling    Providence   has 


EDUCATION  :   RUGBY  AND  HAILEYBURY      69 

ordered  all  for  his  good,  but  my  hopes  were  certainly  kept 
up  that  other  employment  might  be  found  without  his 
going  so  far  away.  I  do  not  even  recollect  either  of  my 
brothers  ever  proposing  anything  to  me,  except  Benjamin's 
thinking  of  a  Solicitor's  office.  But  when  I  named  the 
Law  to  brother  W.  his  remark  was,  "  I  would  not  confine 
William  to  the  desk  :  and  what  hopes  have  you  afterwards 
of  his  being  taken  into  partnership  ?  It  would  be  different 
if  he  had  a  Father  or  relative  in  the  Law.  And  as  to  a 
Barrister,  it  requires  great  interest  and  talent  ^the  latter  I 
am  sure  dear  William  has^.  I  intend  to  bring  Harr}**  up 
to  it.''  But  he  seemed  not  to  think  of  it  for  my  William. 
I  particularly  wish  this  burned  directly  you  have  read  it, 
and  that  my  expressions  of  disappointment  ma}-  not  be 
repeated.  I  am  full}-  satisfied  that  my  family  have  been 
extremely  kind  and  affectionate  towards  me,  and  that  I 
have,  at  times,  given  them  great  uneasiness  and  anxiety. 
I  am  sure  my  trials  are  sent  me  for  my  good,  and  my 
greatest  wish  is  to  bear  them  as  a  Christian  ought,  know- 
ing that  there  is  a  rest  in  store,  already  purchased  by  Him 
who  laid  down  His  life  for  us.' 

'  The  late  Lord  Justice  of  Appeal. 


CHAPTER  III. 

INDIA. 
1837-1844.       AGE    19-26. 

Intelligent  interest  in  new  surroundings — Medical  studies — 
Brahman  village  —  Granite  carvings — A  moonlight  fes- 
tival— South  Arcot ;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ashton  and  Brooke 
Cunliffe — '  The  beau-ideal  of  a  civilian ' — Two  feats  of 
arms — A  typical  Indian  day — Pig-sticking  —  The  straits 
of  ;^65o  income — A  bachelor's  den — Bison-stalking  at 
Cuddalore — A  cousin's  testimonial — Assessment  of  Sheva- 
roy  Hills — '  Doing  Adam  ' — The  Gates  of  Somnauth — 
A  bear-hunt — '  The  workings  of  an  anxious  old  mother  ' 
— Hill  and  low-country  tigers — The  Todas — The  Purdey 
gun — Fever — Ordered  to  Cape — '  I  love  a  hill ' — Pic- 
turesque sport — Indian  gipsies — Lord  Ellenborough  as 
Governor-General. 

The  next  seven  years  William  Oswell  passed  in  India, 
working  hard  and  heartily  enjoying  his  life  and  surround- 
ings. He  found  ample  scope  for  his  athletic  and  sporting 
proclivities  in  hunting,  cricket,  racquets,  boxing,  pig- 
sticking and  shooting,  while  his  natural  aptitude  for  lan- 
guage enabled  him  to  acquire  so  complete  a  mastery  of 
Tamil  that  he  discharged  his  public  business  without  the 
aid  of  an  interpreter — a  very  rare  accomplishment  in  those 
days.  This,  and  the  possession  of  a  vigorous  intelligence, 
led  him  to  converse  with  the  natives,  who,  attracted  by 
his  courtesy  and  the  evidently  sincere  interest  he  dis- 
played, talked  freely  of  their  manners,  customs,  history  and 


INDIA  71 

religions.  He  supplemented  the  knowledge  thus  gained 
by  reading  all  the  books  he  could  obtain  dealing  with  the 
country  and  people,  and  to  this  source  may  probably  be 
traced  the  fascination  ethnology  had  for  him  throughout 
his  life. 

In  another  direction,  also,  his  active  mind  found  em- 
ployment. When  his  work  first  took  him  up-country  he 
was  forcibly  struck  by  the  great  mortality  among  the 
natives  from  trivial  diseases,  and  the  amount  of  unneces- 
sary suffering  they  endured.  There  were,  of  course,  no 
doctors  away  from  the  towns,  and  it  occurred  to  him  that 
a  very  moderate  acquaintance  with  medicine  and  surgery 
would  enable  him  to  be  of  incalculable  service.  Accord- 
ingly he  bought  the  leading  works  in  every  branch  of 
the  subject,  and  by  close  and  constant  application  made 
their  contents  his  own.  The  study,  begun  from  motives 
of  humanity,  became  a  source  of  profound  interest  and 
delight  to  him,  and  throughout  his  stay  in  India  and  his 
subsequent  wanderings  in  Europe,  Africa  and  South 
America,  he  had  hundreds  of  opportunities  of  turning  it 
to  practical  account.  He  never  lost  a  chance  of  profiting 
by  the  experience  of  the  medical  men  with  whom  he  was 
brought  into  contact,  and  he  met  the  kindest  readiness  to 
assist  him  on  all  hands. 

His  letters  at  this  time  were  almost  exclusively  to  his 
own  family.  They  are  uniformly  cheerful  in  tone,  and  if 
they  contain  any  allusion  at  all  to  his  troubles,  misfortunes 
and  illnesses,  it  is  of  the  slightest  nature,  and  generally 
after  they  are  over.  When  at  home,  within  easy  reach  of 
his  mother,  he  had  been  accustomed  to  open  his  inner- 
most soul  to  her,  and  to  her  alone  ;  but  now  that  he  was 
separated  from  her  by  many  thousands  of  miles,  he  deli- 
berately denied  himself  the  comfort  of  her  sympathy.  He 
knew  that  her  outward  brightness  covered  a  broken  heart, 
and,  unselfish  as  herself,  he  would  not  add  to  her  anxieties 
by  describing  his ;  he  had  pity  on  her,  for  the  hand  of  the 
Lord  had  touched  her. 


72  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


'  Madras, 

'  September  14,  1837. 
'  Dearest  Mother, 

' .  .  .  Here  I  am  in  this  land  of  India.  .  .  .  We 
started  on  the  loth  June  and  anchored  in  the  Madras 
Roads  on  the  13th  of  September,  thus  making  our  voyage 
in  three  months  and  three  days,  ijot  a  bad  one  under  any 
circumstances,  but  a  most  excellent  one  under  ours.  .  .  . 
The  Sei'ingapatam  is  a  beautiful  ship  to  look  at,  a  fast 
sailer,  and  a  capital  sea-boat.  She  behaved  right  well  in 
a  very  heavy  gale  which  we  had  off  the  Cape.  One  night 
I  think  I  shall  never  forget.  It  had  been  blowing  very 
hard  and  the  sea  was  running  high,  when  all  of  a  sudden 
the  wind  lulled,  and  it  became  blacker  and  darker  than 
ever,  while  at  each  masthead  and  at  the  main  yardarm  a 
small  blue  phosphorescent  light  was  burning.  As  suddenly 
as  it  had  lulled,  the  wind  again  rose,  and  during  that  night 
it  blew  tremendously.  .  .  .  Write  me  a  particular  account 
of  everyone.'' 

To  Miss  Louisa  Cotton. 

'  Madras, 

'Feb.  18,  1838. 

*  I  have  explored  some  very  pretty  villages,  and  old  out 
of  the  way  places,  that  not  half  a  dozen  people  in  Madras 
know  of.  About  a  week  ago  I  went  to  a  village  inhabited 
solely  by  Brahmans.  It  is  situated  in  a  very  uncultivated- 
looking  plain,  and  is  in  truth  a  perfect  oasis  in  a  desert. 
I  had  passed  it  many  times  before,  and  never  thought  of 
its  existence,  it  lies  so  far  back,  completely  hidden  by  high 
avenues  of  cocoa-nut  trees  and  thick  underwood.  It  is 
built  as  nearly  all  the  villages  in  India  are,  in  a  square, 
that  is  the  houses  are  all  erected  round  a  large  tank. 
There  are  some  very  odd  pagodas  and  shrines  belonging 
to  it,  supposed  to  be  many  hundreds  of  years  old,  and  the 
most  extraordinary  part  of  it  is  that  all  the  temple  work  is 


INDIA  75 

of  solid  granite.  Now  there  is  no  granite  in  India  within 
four  or  five  hundred  miles  of  this,  and  even  that,  I  believe, 
in  no  great  quantities,  and  did  you  but  know  the  difficulty 
of  carriage  all  over  India,  you  would  indeed  wonder  at  the 
arduousness  of  the  undertaking.  The  supporting  pillars 
are  one  solid  mass  of  this  stone,  and,  in  common  with  the 
rest  of  the  building,  beautifully  carved  with  all  kinds  of 
images  and  devices.  The  art  of  carving  on  granite  is,  I 
understand,  now  totally  lost.  The  other  night,  as  I  was 
riding  out,  I  by  chance  came  upon  a  large  body  of  natives 
celebrating  one  of  their  feasts.  The  spot  fixed  upon  was 
a  vast  tank  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Madras,  surrounded 
by  tall  rows  of  cocoanut-trees.  The  moon  was  just  up, 
and  was  throwing  a  most  beautiful  mellowed  light  over 
the  whole  scene.  Different  kinds  of  native  fireworks  would 
occasionally  light  up  some  dark  nook  or  corner  into  which 
the  light  of  the  moon  did  not  penetrate.  A  barge  was 
being  towed  round  the  tank  to  the  music  of  gongs  and 
colorie  horns.  Discordant  as  it  generally  is,  in  this 
instance  it  sounded  well  enough.  On  it  were  all  the 
dancing  girls  of  the  neighbouring  pagoda,  forming  alto- 
gether a  most  complete  Indian  scene.  .  .  .  To  my  Mother 
of  course  all  my  letters  belong,  she  will  see  them  all  and 
know  that  the  matter  contained  is  hers  more  than  any- 
body else's,  although  not  directed  to  her.  ...  If  she  does 
not  fully  understand  this,  and  I  did  not  feel  that  all  letters 
I  send  home  are  hers,  I  should  be  very  unhappy.  Uncle 
Ben  is  the  next  whom  I  shall  write  to  and  then  again  to 
my  dear  Mother.  God  bless  her  !  I  am  sure  my  letters 
can  be  coveted  by  none,  so  that  it  matters  but  little  to 
whom  I  address  them.  Tell  the  dear  Lady  that  I  am  going 
to  send  her  home  some  moon-creeper  seeds  for  her  garden. 
Give  my  very  best  love  to  her,  Teddy  and  Uncle  Ben.' 

Read  in  the  light  of  his  later  life,  this  letter  is  singularly 
suggestive.  The  exploring  instinct,  the  geological  know- 
ledge,  the   quick   appreciation    of  the   picturesque,  and, 


76 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


lastly,  the  loyal  devotion  to  his  mother,  characteristics  of 
the  boy  of  nineteen,  were  equally  the  characteristics  of 
the  man  of  seventy-five. 

'  I  am  appointed,'  he  writes  on  January  lo,  1839,  *  to 

do  duty  with  the  principal 
collector  of  the  Southern 
Division  of  Arcot — William 
Ashton.' 

Mr.  Ashton  already  had 
one  assistant — Brooke  Cun- 
liffe — an  ardent  sportsman, 
and  a  first  -  rate  cricketer 
and  racquet-player.  Simi- 
larity of  tastes  first  united 
the  young  men,  and  very 
WILLIAM  ASHTON.  early  in  the  three  years  they 

were  together  a  warm  affec- 
tion sprang  up  between  them.  Fifty-six  years  later 
Mr.  Cunliffe  writes  : 


'  My  dear  friend  was  then  a  well-grown,  powerful  young 
man,  six  feet  in  height  with  an  unusually  handsome,  in- 
telligent face.  He  was  an  excellent  horseman  but  knew 
little  about  shooting,  and  was  by  myself  introduced  to 
that  sport  in  which  he  was  afterwards  to  be  so  famous, 
and  in  which  he  had  so  often  to  trust  his  life  to  his 
own  ready  eye  and  hand  and  indomitable  courage.  .  .  . 
Coursing  the  Indian  fox  with  Affghan  greyhounds  was 
one  of  our  favourite  amusements,  and  this  entailed 
some  fast  work  and  often  over  bad  ground.  He  was 
always  quite  to  the  front.  .  .  .  He  was  the  beau-ideal  of 
what  an  Indian  Civilian  should  be — a  gentleman  born,  a 
public  school-boy,  of  fine  physique,  of  generous  feelings, 
kind  and  considerate,  gifted  with  good  sense  and  intelli- 
gence and  bearing  himself  like  an  English  gentleman. 
These  are  the  qualities  which,  in  greater  degree  than 
talents,  or  genius,  attract  the  natives  of  India  and  secure 


INDIA 


77 


their  goodwill  and  co-operation.  .  .  .  He  became  en- 
deared to  many  by  his  generous  disposition,  tenderness 
for  others,  and  his  modesty  and  self  effacement.' 

Another  old  friend  of  these  early  days,  General  E.  O. 
Leggatt,  writes  of  him  : 

'  He  was  a  very  powerful  and  active  man  and  could 
jump  over  a  high-backed  chair  with  only  a  quick  step  or 


THREW    HIM    DOWN    INTO    THE    PADDY-FIELD    WITH    A 
TREMENDOUS    SPLASH. 


two  before  jumping.  He  once  placed  himself  on  his  back 
on  the  floor  with  his  arms  stretched  out  beyond  his  head, 
made  me  stand  on  his  open  hands  and  lifted  me  straight 
up  without  bending  his  arms  at  all,  to  the  surprise  of  all 
in  the  room.  Of  course  I  was  not  a  heavy  weight !  One 
day  when  we  were  out  snipe-shooting  he  happened  to 
be  walking  along  a  ridge  in  the  paddy-fields,  and  a  big 


78  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

Mahomedan  was  coming  towards  him  on  the  same  ridge. 
The  Mahomedan  had  no  idea  of  yielding  one  inch  to 
allow  him  to  pass,  but  evidently  expected  him  to  step  off 
into  the  paddy-field.  However,  as  soon  as  he  was  near 
enough  Oswell,  who  would  have  made  room  for  anybody, 
but  was  not  the  man  to  allow  himself  to  be  pushed  into 
the  mud,  passed  his  gun  to  the  shikarry  behind  him  and 
getting  the  Mahomedan  by  his  waist-cloth  lifted  him  up 
in  the  air,  and  threw  him  down  into  the  paddy-field  with 
a  tremendous  splash.  He  was  naturally  hot-tempered 
.  .  .  but  at  the  same  time  one  of  the  kindest-hearted 
men  I  ever  came  across.  He  was  also  remarkably  hand- 
some. .  .  .' 

Mr.  Ashton  was  as  fond  and  proud  of  '  my  two  hand- 
some boys '  as  if  the}'  were  his  own  sons,  and  they  most 
cordially  reciprocated  his  affection,  undeterred  by  the 
somewhat  bluff  overbearing  manner  which  he  assumed 
as  a  sort  of  protest  and  quite  vain  protection  against  the 
possession  of  the  kindest,  tenderest  heart.  His  charming 
wife,  highly  educated,  a  capital  rider  and  a  graceful, 
gracious  hostess,  helped  to  make  his  house  very  attractive 
to  the  young  assistants.  When  she  returned  to  England, 
Oswell  writes  of  her  to  his  mother  : 

*  You  will  see  her  I  have  very  little  doubt ;  if  you  do, 
love  her  for  my  sake,  remember.''  And  later  :  *  God  bless 
her  !  She  has  written  me  a  delightful  account  of  the  visit 
you  paid  her.  I  hope  she  gave  a  good  account  of  your 
far  awa'  son — I  am  sure  she  would,  I  only  fear  it  would 
be  too  good.  But  you  must  not  believe  everything  she 
says ;  we  always  speak  of  the  absent  in  extremes.' 

To  his  Mother. 

'  March  20,  1840. 

'  In  Ned's  last  he  asks  me  how  I  spend  an  Indian  day. 
Up  at  half  past  five — never  later  than   six,  or  the  sun 


INDIA  79 

shines  straight  upon  me,  immediately  proceed  to  the 
racquet-court  and  play  till  half  past  seven  ;  getting  warm, 
go  home,  lie  on  a  sofa  and  read  till  nine ;  bathe  in  a  large 
tub  for  half  an  hour,  delicious  !  dress ;  breakfast  at  about 
ten ;  then  to  cutcherry,  in  which  I  am  detained  in  pro- 
portion of  course  to  the  work.     Some  men  eat  tiffin  ;  I  do 

not  for  fear  of  growing  as  fat  as !     I  hear  by  the  way 

that  there  is  a  capital  caricature  on  this  subject ;  make 
Teddy  send  it  out.  He  will  perchance  pretend  he  knows 
nothing  about  it.  Don't  believe  him.  I'll  answer  for  it 
he  knows  all  the  picture-shops  between  Whitechapel  and 
Hyde  Park.  I  think  I  did  myself.  Why  shouldn't  he  ? 
Want  of  proper  education  if  he  doesn't  !  Well  to  return  : 
Suppose  I  leave  cutcherry  at  three  ;  read  till  five  ;  racquets 
or  riding  till  half  past  six,  dress  again,  dinner  at  half  past 
seven  or  eight ;  bed  at  ten  in  a  meat  safe  to  defend  my 
flesh  from  mosquitoes.  So  the  days  roll  on  with,  of  course, 
occasional  interruptions,  e.g.,  I  may  be  in  the  district, 
and  then  nothing  but  hunting  and  shooting  (no  sport 
close  to  Cuddalore)  and  instead  of  racquets,  about  twice 
a  week  my  hounds  throw  off— two  terriers,  two  curs,  two 
pugs  and  a  poodle.  I  have  rather  exaggerated  their  breed 
I  think.  Sometimes,  however,  we  get  a  most  excellent 
run.  I  have  seen  out  of  a  field  of  eleven,  only  three  or 
four  anywhere  near  them.  .  .  .' 

To  his  Brother. 

'  Cuddalore, 

'■June  21,  1840. 

' .  .  .  What  would  you  give  for  a  good  galop  with  me 
after  a  pig  on  Friday  next  ?  Read  all  the  descriptions 
of  the  ancient  hunts,  witness  the  whole  of  the  runs  in 
England  with  the  hounds  for  the  next  ten  years  :  the 
imagination  and  reality  alike  fall  immeasurably  short.  A 
wild- looking  country,  a  burning  scorching  sun,  three  to 
four  hundred   beaters,  instead  of  the  sixteen   couple  of 


8o  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

hounds,  a  patch  of  high  elephant  grass  some  mile  or  two 
in  extent,  so  high  and  dense  that  you  can  neither  see 
over  it  nor  into  it.  "All's  ready  Sir" — you  leave  your 
tent,  mount  your  nag,  and  ride  forward  towards  the 
ground.  The  beaters  advance  in  a  thickly  serried  line, 
every  moving  object  being  carefully  removed  in  the 
direction  in  which  you  wish  the  pig  to  break.  You  hide 
yourself  and  then  listen,  and  that  same  listening,  how 
exciting !  At  last,  after  about  an  hour's  discordant  yell- 
ing, beating  of  bush,  blowing  of  horns,  etc.,  you  hear  the 
welcome  sound  "  Thuray,-  Thiiray,  otho  punne  "  (Sir,  Sir, 
there  are  pig)  you're  in  your  saddle  in  a  moment  and 
then  hurrah  !  for  the  best  rider  and  the  fastest  horse.  .  .  . 
How  is  the  dear  old  Lady  ?  Give  her  plenty  of  kisses 
for  me.' 

When  Mrs.  Oswell  read  Uncle  Ben  and  Teddy  the 
following  lively  picture  of  poverty  and  discomfort  on 
^£"650  a  year,  they  must  all  have  laughed  to  find  Willy 
the  assistant-collector  so  very  like  Willy  the  schoolboy: 

'  CUDDALORE, 

'  Septv.  18,  1840. 

' .  .  .  My  pay  is  now  £6^0  a  year.  Why  it  really 
looks  a  tolerable  sum  .  .  .  but  whether  it  is  that  I  want 
the  bump  of  domestic  economy,  or  from  some  other  cause 
unknown,  it  has  been,  up  to  this  time,  living  as  I  do  more 
uncomfortably  than  many  upon  half  the  sum,  barely  suffi- 
cient. .  .  .  Talk  of  Indian  luxury,  what  a  mistake  ! 
Could  you  but  see  my  room  now  you  would  say,  "  My  dear 
boy,  I  must  set  things  to  rights  a  little."  In  size  it  is  about 
14  X  12.  Can  I  describe  the  would-be  furniture  ?  I'll 
try.  Lying  as  I  am  now  on  a  sofa,  at  this  mom.ent  the  first 
thing  that  meets  my  eye  is  my  old  ship  chest  of  drawers, 
with  a  small  bookcase  on  the  top  of  them  ;  further  to  the 
right  hang  some  ten  or  twelve  different  kinds  of  coats  on  a 
string.  .  .  .     Immediately  below  them,  on  the  ground,  is  a 


INDIA  8i 

box  used  for  carrying  clothes  when  travelling,  two  gun 
cases,  a  clothes  bag,  an  empty  bottle,  and  a  worn  out  pair 
of  racquet  shoes.  A  little  further  to  the  right  on  the  wall 
are  the  symbols  of  my  magisterial  authority  in  the  shape 
of  two  cat-o'-nine-tails  ;  a  pair  of  braces,  a  belt,  all  on  one 
nail ;  a  little  on,  a  pair  of  spurs  and  two  whips  ;  beyond  that 
again  a  rack  on  which  hangs  a  moor  cap  and  divers  kinds 
of  straw  and  Manila  hats,  under  which  are  placed  the 
washing  stand  and  your  little  worsted-worked  stool.  I 
have  at  last  come  to  my  own  corner,  and  am  obliged  to  turn 
up  my  head  to  see  its  adornments  which  consist  of  two 
hairless  fox  brushes  and  two  pads  of  the  same  animal. 
Immediately  behind  my  head  hangs  a  favourite  racquet. 
I  would  tell  you  what  is  on  the  table  if  I  could,  but  it  is 
impossible,  three  bats  and  the  beautiful  slippers  you  sent 
me  are  the  only  things  distinctly  visible.  The  rest  of  the 
articles  are  in  admired  confusion.  Books,  papers,  bottles, 
blistering  ointment,  brushes,  form  part  of  a  very  variegated 
whole.  A^ow  talk  of  comfort  !  I  wish  Master  Teddy 
could  have  been  out  with  me  a  fortnight  ago.  I  could  have 
shewn  him  a  sight  worth  all  the  lions  of  Oxford — five  or 
six  bison,  within  thirty  yards  of  me  snuffing  up  the  air  at 
my  intrusion  upon  their  native  haunts,  and  gazing  foolishly 
in  my  face,  giving  me  a  famous  shot,  but  unluckily  as 
they  faced  me  the  balls  did  not  strike  a  mortal  part,  and 
although  badly  wounded  they  escaped.  But  it  was  worth 
the  day's  toil  to  hear  them  tear  through  the  jungle  making 
everything  yield  to  their  headlong  course.  Had  I  not 
heard  and  seen  them  I  could  not  have  believed  them  cap- 
able of  breaking  through,  in  one  moment,  jungle  that  had 
taken  me,  crawling  on  my  hands  and  knees,  full  two  long 
hours  to  overcome.  ...  So  poor  C.  C.  is  dead  ;  well, 
the  divines  say  we  are  all  to  appear  in  our  bodies,  but  I 
hope  hers  may  be  changed,  for  really  she  would  not  be 
considered  a  good-looking  angel.  .   .  .' 

The  true  sportsman  speaks  in  this  account  of  the  bison- 
VOL.    I.  6 


82  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

hunt.  None  are  killed,  but  it  is  '  worth  the  day's  toil  to 
hear  them  tear  through  the  jungle,  making  everything 
yield  to  their  headlong  course.'  This,  as  will  be  noticed, 
was  always  his  feeling :  the  habits  of  the  animal,  the  ex- 
citement and  incidents  of  the  chase,  and  the  features  of  the 
country  in  which  it  took  place,  were  the  principal  attrac- 
tions, the  actual  killing  the  secondary  object. 

To  his  Mother. 

'  Irawaddy, 

'  South  Argot, 

'Mch.  17,  1841. 

'  I  am  most  terribly  annoyed  just  at  present  in  conse- 
quence of  being  ordered  to  Cuddapah  to  act  as  Registrar 
to  my  Junior.  .  .  .  When  I  went  to  Salem  the  Governor 
gave  me  to  understand  that  should  the  exigencies  of  the 
service  admit  of  it,  he  would  bear  in  mind  my  wish  to 
remain  in  the  Revenue  line;  I  dislike  the  Judicial  business 
excessively.  But  its  no  use  kicking  against  the  pricks,  so 
go  I  must.  .  .  .  Never  mind,  I  shall  see  more  of  this 
world  of  India.  It  is  a  long  march  in  this  roadless 
country — three  hundred  miles.  ...  I  do  not  think  you 
are  careful  enough  of  yourself.  I  hear  of  your  running  all 
over  the  country  visiting  the  sick.  I  would  not  try  to 
prevent  you  in  any  of  your  charitable  deeds,  and  if  I  would, 
I  could  not,  but  remember  that  you  must  take  great  care 
of  yourself — "special  edict" — as  John  Chinaman  would 
say.  We  have  not  gained  much  in  our  negociations  with 
the  said  inhabitants  of  China.  The  Barbarians,  as  they 
style  us,  can  fight,  but  can't  make  treaties.  It  is  not  the 
first  time  that  England  has  lost  herself  with  pen  and 
paper.  .  .  . 

'  19^/i  March.  Arrived  here  (Cuddalore)  yesterday  morn- 
ing. To  prepare  for  my  start  for  Cuddapah  I  play  a 
match  at  cricket  this  evening.  Does  Uncle  Ben  still  keep 
up  his  name  at  that  game  ?     Really  after  all,  this  is  not  a 


INDIA  83 

bad  country.  Why,  the  Gentlemen  of  England  don't  know 
what  sport  is.  The  knocking  over  a  brace  or  two  of  par- 
tridges, and  a  hare  or  two  in  a  little  bit  of  a  plantation,  or 
an  unromantic  grain  field,  called  by  them  sport,  is  not  to 
be  compared  with  Indian  shooting.  The  one  is  confined 
in  extent,  the  other  boundless  ;  the  one  dull  and  tame, 
the  other  exciting  to  a  degree.  You  do  not  know  what 
kind  of  game  you  may  stumble  upon.  The  other  night  I 
was  out,  it  was  most  splendid  moonlight,  and  the  scene 
was  wild  enough  to  please  the  most  ardent  lover  of  Nature 
in  her  most  rugged  state.  Everything  was  so  still  that  to 
disturb  the  repose  by  the  crack  of  my  rifle  seemed  a 
crying  sin,  but  crack  it  did,  and  to  some  purpose — a  fine 
spotted  deer  was  the  victim.  .  .  .  Moonlight  is  the  time 
at  which  India  appears  to  most  advantage  .  .  .  .  ' 

Towards  the  end  of  July,  1841,  Mrs.  Oswell  had  the 
great  pleasure  of  receiving  from  the  son  of  her  brother 
John  a  generous  appreciation  of  her  '  best-beloved  boy.' 
The  tribute  is  the  more  remarkable  that  Major  Cotton  was 
only  eight  years  his  cousin's  senior.  There  must  surely 
have  been  something  very  unusual  in  the  latter  that  the 
smart,  quick-tempered  soldier  not  only  listened  without 
resentment  to  the  'long  lecture,'  but  acted  on  it.  At  the 
same  time,  one  cannot  help  feeling  that  honours  were 
divided  in  '  sense,  penetration  and  candour.' 

Major  John  Stedman  Cotton  to  Mrs.  Oswell. 

'  7TH  Madras  Cavalry, 
'  Argot, 

^  April  20,  1 84 1. 
'  My  dear  Aunt, 

*  Having  had  the  pleasure  during  the  last  month  of 
seeing  a  good  deal  of  William  ...  I  can  honestly  say 
that  there  are  few  men's  company  I  would  sooner  enjoy 
than  his,  and,  what  I  certainly  did  not  expect  from  my 
previous  idea  of  him,  he,  without  the  smallest  effort,  gained 

6—2 


84  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

golden  opinions  from  every  man  in  the  Regiment.  He 
was  very  anxious  that  I  should  take  his  portrait  for  you, 
.  .  .  but  independently  of  his  face  being  a  very  difficult 
one  naturally  to  give  at  all  correctly,  at  present  the  diffi- 
culty is  greatly  increased  by  his  hair — whiskers,  beard  and 
moustache  entirely  concealing  the  outline.  .  .  .  He  is 
very  like  you.  There  are  certain  tones  of  his  voice  which 
remind  me  of  you  inevitably.  The  eyes,  forehead,  brow 
and  junction  of  the  nose,  dixe  your  own,  and  when  he  laugh- 
ingly tells  a  joke  which  he  is  enjoying,  I  can  fancy  you 
masquerading  in  a  beard,  telling  some  funny  story  to  or  of 
Uncle  Ben  at  breakfast.  I  dare  say  you  have  heard  he  is 
considered  the  best-looking  man  in  the  Presidency,  but 
this  would  certainly  give  you  a  very  wrong  idea  of  him 
unless  it  was  also  added,  and  the  least  vain.  Never  did  I 
see  anyone  pay  less  attention  to  external  adornments,  and 
he  gave  me  one  day  a  long  lecture  on  my  vanity  or  rather 
self-sufficiency  of  manner,  and  having  really  a  high  opinion 
of  his  sense,  penetration  and  candour,  it  was  not  without 
its  effect  tho'  I  was  entirely  unconscious  of  possessing  in 
any  offensive  degree  so  common  a  weakness.  .  .  .  Give 
my  love  to  the  uncle.  Don't  trouble  yourself  to  answer 
this  if  it  is  the  least  irksome.  At  the  same  time  I  know 
no  one  from  whom  a  letter  could  afford  me  more  pleasure 
or  with  whom  I  should  better  like  to  open  an  occasional 
correspondence.     God  bless  you  my  dear  Aunt.' 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Brother. 

'  MuDDANAPULLY  (78  miles  from  Cuddapah), 
'CuDDAPAH  District, 

'  September  19,  1841. 

'  .  .  .  I  am  now  staying  with  Ashton  at  a  place  mis- 
called, I  think,  the  Sanatorium  of  Cuddapah.  ...  It 
does  not  seem  to  agree  with  the  natives  ...  as  you  will 
allow  when  I  tell  you  that  out  of  eight  or  nine  servants 
five  are  at  present  laid  up  with  fever.     By  the  way  talking 


INDIA  85 

of  fever  I  have  been  doing  a  little  in  that  line  myself  down 
at  Cuddapah  some  months  ago.  Horribly  knocked  up,  I 
was,  I  can  assure  you,  for  about  a  fortnight  !  This  was 
the  reason  that  I  did  not  write  by  the  last  overland.  I'm 
all  right  again  now.  The  attack  was  brought  on  entirely 
by  my  own  foolish  boyishness.  We  had  three  holidays  in 
Court  together  and  I  thought  so  good  an  opportunity  for 
seeing  something  of  the  district  and  enjoying  a  little 
shooting  was  not  to  be  overlooked.  ...  So  off  I  was 
sharp,  twenty  miles  into  the  country,  with  gun,  tents  and 
other  appurtenances,  and  after  being  chained  to  a  desk, 
nearly  without  exercise,  for  four  months,  was  fool  enough 
to  be  out  on  foot  for  the  three  days  from  half  past  four  or 
five  in  the  morning  till  the  samie  hour  in  the  evening,  and 
this  without  any  thing  to  eat.  Very  boyish,  you  will  say, 
but  what  length  will  not  the  excitement  of  shooting  carry 
one,  or  even  hoping  to  shoot,  for  in  this  case  I  saw  nothing. 
The  kindness  which  I  have  always  received  from  Ashton 
has  been  very  great,  but  his  attention  and  tenderness  to  me 
during  the  time  I  was  laid  up  with  fever,  exceeded  any- 
thing I  could  have  imagined,  and  could  not  have  been 
greater.  I  have  received  my  Mother's  picture  at  last.  .  .  . 
You  may  imagine  my  joy  at  the  arrival  of  my  long-expected 
treasure.  I  am  getting  to  like  it  m.ore  and  more  every 
day.  At  first  ...  I  was  disappointed  .  .  .  but  now  it 
recalls  my  dearest  Mother  most  forcibly  to  my  external 
eye.  The  first  march  I  made  was  about  fifty  miles  to  a 
place  called  Gooroocondah  in  which  I  was  told  there  was 
an  old  palace  belonging  in  former  times  to  one  of  Tippoo's 
employes.  A  palace  it  was  called,  but  I  should  much 
doubt  whether  you  would  have  used  it  for  a  pigsty.  I 
wandered  through  the  zenanah  or  apartments  of  the 
ladies,  and  was  saluted  at  every  step  by — don't  let  your 
morality  blush,  restrain  your  virtuous  indignation,  my 
dear  Mother — by  crowds  and  swarms  of  beetles  and  bats !  ! 
7iot  fairy-formed  damsels  with  tinkling  anklets,  bearing 
garlands  of  flowers  to  enchain  my  body,  as  of  course  they 


86  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

would    at    sight   have    done    my    mind,    with    their   dark 
glances.  .  .  .' 

The  '  little  in  that  line '  was  a  terrible  struggle  between 
life  and  death.  For  eleven  days  he  lay  in  agonies  of  pain, 
burnt  up  with  fever.  Nothing  passed  his  lips  all  the  time 
save  occasional  sips  of  tea.  Day  and  night  Mr.  Ashton 
nursed  him  devotedly,  unremittingly,  until  the  fever  broke. 

To  his  Mother. 

'Nov.  1 8,  1 841. 

'  .  .  .  I  am  on  my  way  to  one  of  the  talooks,  or  divisions 
under  my  supervision,  to  be  on  the  spot  for  the  better 
preservation  of  the  peace  during  a  large  annual  feast  which 
is  on  the  eve  of  taking  place.  From  the  vast  concourse 
of  people  who  assemble  at  it,  and  from  the  supposed  diffi- 
culty of  detection,  thefts,  etc.,  etc.  are  rife.  To  deter  the 
mass  from  sinning,  summary  punishments  of  convicted 
persons  with  the  cat-o'-nine-tails  are  more  common  and 
more  expedient  than  in  the  general  administration  of  our 
police  duties  ;  and  as  the  said  corporal  punishment  cannot 
be  decreed  or  inflicted  except  by,  and  in  the  presence  of, 
a  European  Officer,  your  worthy  son  is  necessarily  pre- 
sent. It  is  my  second  trip  to  the  same  place  for  the  same 
purpose  (my  first  was  two  years  ago)  and  it  will,  I  have 
every  reason  to  believe,  be  my  last,  as  I  am  daily  expecting 
to  see  my  name  in  orders  for  the  Head  Assistantship  of 
Salem,  which  has  been  promised  me ;  chiefly,  I  believe, 
through  the  kind  interference  of  Mr.  Bird.  I  hope  Uncle 
Ben  does  not  forget  me  ;  I  can  assure  him  I  remember 
him  and  all  his  kindness  more  and  more  every  day  as  I 
get  older  and  see  so  little  of  it  with  others.  ...  If  he 
should  at  any  time  think  of  paying  me  a  visit  in  a  balloon, 
and  only  want  an  impetus  to  set  him  going,  you  may  tell 
him  that  my  talooks  are  the  best  shooting-ground  perhaps 
in  the  district,  and  that  I  can  give  him  licence  !  !  to  shoot 
over  seventy  miles  of  jungle  in  which  he  may  find  every 


INDIA  87 

kind  of  game  from  a  tomtit  to  an  elephant.     Good-bye, 
God  bless  you,  my  dearest  Mother.' 

To  the  Same. 

'  Shevaroy  Hills, 

'  Oct.  22,  1842. 

'  .  .  .  I  have  been  up  here  nearly  three  weeks  having 
been  deputed  by  the  Collector,  in  consequence  of  this 
hilly  range  being  now  for  the  first  time  brought  under 
Government  management,  to  fix  an  assessment,  and  report 
generally  on  the  produce  and  inhabitants.  Pleasant  work 
enough  so  far  as  the  climate  goes,  but,  for  fear  of  falling 
short  of  what  may  be  expected  of  me,  not,  perhaps,  so 
desirable  as  it  otherwise  might  be.  It  is  my  debut  in  this 
particular  line  and  rather  an  uncommon  duty  for  a  Head 
Assistant  to  perform,  and  although  not  wont  to  be  nervous, 
I  should  not  like  to  make  a  bungle  of  it.  .  .  .  Matters 
are  wearing  a  more  cheerful  aspect  in  all  quarters ;  an 
honourable  and  advantageous  peace  concluded  with  China, 
and  complete  success  in  the  North-West.  I  say  com- 
plete, for  although  the  fact  of  the  prisoners  being  made 
over  to  us  is  not  as  yet  fully  substantiated,  yet  there 
appears  no  reason  to  attach  doubt  to  the  reports  which 
state  that  they  are,  or  are  to  be,  at  least,  without  delay. 
So  you  may  now  sleep  in  less  dread  of  your  son  waking 
one  fine  morning  to  find  his  throat  cut.  I'll  answer  for 
it  that  your  mind  has  been  not  altogether  free  from  such 
thoughts  during  the  late  disturbances.  Now  confess  that 
you  believed  me  at  times  to  be  in  imminent  danger — 
Afghan  horsemen  dashing  up  to  my  door,  and  ravaging 
my  peaceful  talooks  !  You  people  at  home  have  no  idea 
of  distance.  I'm  sadly  in  want  of  a  good  ball  gun  so  don't 
let  Mr.  Purdey  make  more  delay  than  may  be  necessary 
with  the  one  I  asked  Uncle  Ben  to  procure  me.  ...  I 
brought  a  most  magnificent  bison  to  his  knees  the  other 
day,  and  although  he  escaped  with  two  ounces  of  lead  in 
him  it  was  worth  all  the  partridge  murdering  in  the  world, 


88  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

to  see  an  enormous  brute  of  eighteen  hands  charging  down 
within  five  yards  of  one.  ...  I  wish  you  could  have  seen 
my  attempt  at  gardening  at  Dharmapoory  this  year.  You 
remember  my  dishke  to  doing*  Adam  formerly.  Well, 
having  nothing  else  to  amuse  myself  with  at  my  lively 
quarters,  I  was  obliged  to  try  my  hand  at  it.  .  .  .  I  have 
really  a  good  garden,  figs,  guavas,  grapes,  etc.,  etc.,  in 
abundance ;  but  my  forte  lay  in  the  lettuces  and  other 
vegetables,  of  which  I  intended  to  plant  only  a  small 
supply  for  my  own  use  and  was  rather  astonished,  when 
they  came  up,  to  find  that  there  were  about  enough  for  a 
moderate  army.  .  .  .' 

It  will  be  difficult  for  his  friends  of  later  years  to 
believe  that  there  was  ever  a  time  when  he  disliked 
'  doing  Adam.' 

'  Dec.  25,  1842. 
*  My  dearest  Mother, 

'  Xmas  Day — not  much  like  what  I  remember  of 
Xmas  Days  at  home.  My  last  was  spent  counting  the 
Treasury  of  the  Chingleput  District.  This,  as  it  has 
fallen  on  a  Sunday,  is  of  course  exempt  from  work.  .  .  . 
I  have  just  had  a  concourse  of  natives  visiting  me  as  is 
their  custom  on  this  day,  and  have  attempted  an  ex- 
planation of  the  reason  of  our  keeping  it  as  a  great 
festival ;  and  in  consequence  of  one  of  their  own  Gods — 
Vishnoo — having,  according  to  their  belief,  become  several 
times  incarnate  and  visited  the  Earth,  have  succeeded,  I 
fancy,  better  in  making  them  have  some  distant  idea  of 
my  meaning,  than  I  otherwise  should  have  done.  I  ex- 
cited their  astonishment  not  a  little  by  the  proposed  new 
Aerial  Steam  Carriage,  a  sketch  of  which  I  gave  them. 
One  old  Brahmin  declared  that  in  case  of  our  effecting 
anything  of  the  kind  he  should  take  us  for  demons,  a 
doubtful  compliment  !  as  that  was  the  very  method  in 
which  their  Rakshutahs  or  Genii  were  formerly  supposed 
to  travel.     Steam  Carriages  however,  in  addition  to  my 


INDIA  89 

knowing  but  little  about  them,  are  difficult  subjects  for 
Tamil,  and  I  much  fear  that  my  audience  were  not  very 
highly  edified.  .  .  .  The  wars  are  brought  to  an  end  as 
you  will  see  by  the  papers.  Lord  Ellenborough  has,  by 
the  common  consent,  made  a  goose  of  himself.  He  is  so 
imconinwnly  fond  of  proclamations,  and  his  proclamations 
are  so  iinconvnonly  foolish,  and  show  so  little  knowledge 
of  the  people  he  has  to  rule  over,  that  I  am  not  surprised 
he  should  be  laughed  at.  His  last  proclamation  is  really 
ludicrous.  In  an  address  to  the  Princes  and  Chiefs  of 
India,  the  impression  forced  on  your  mind  is  that  his 
Lordship  (though  doubtless  he  never  meant  anything  of 
the  kind)  wishes  to  make  the  said  Princes,  etc.,  believe 
that  the  expedition  and  war  in  Afghanistan  was  under- 
taken solely  for  the  recovery  of  the  gates  of  the  temple  of 
Somnauth,  taken  away  some  thousand  years  ago  by  one 
Mahmood  of  Ghuznee,  and  now  being  brought  back  as  a 
trophy  and  sop  to  the  Hindus,  by  our  troops.  He  seems 
entirely  to  have  forgotten  in  congratulating  the  Rulers, 
Princes  and  Potentates  of  India  upon  the  restoration  of 
these  gates  and  the  defilement  of  the  tomb  of  Mahmood, 
that  a  great  portion  of  them  (the  Mussulmans)  are  de- 
scendants and  countrymen  of  that  very  Mahmood,  and 
that  although  the  recovery  of  the  gates  may  be  honey  to 
the  Hindus,  it  must  be  gall  to  them.  .  .  .  God  bless  you 
all.     A  merry  Xmas  and  a  happy  new  year.' 

'  Dharmapoorv, 

'  Feb.  23,  1843. 
'  My  dearest  Mother, 

' .  .  .  Last  Overland  I  was  down  in  the  very  heart 
of  the  jungles  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Cauvery,  trying 
for  some  fishing ! — rather  an  un-Indian-like  sport  and  one 
I  should  never  have  thought  of  myself,  but  a  friend  who 
had  come  out  for  a  month's  shikar  to  my  tents,  persuaded 
me  that  was  excellent  diversion,  and  we  accordingly  tried 
it,  but  with  very  little  success.     The  scenery  however  v/as 


go 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


beautiful.  .  .  .  The  fish  which  abounds  in  this  river  is  the 
niahseer,  something  hke  the  salmon,  growing  to  an  enormous 
size.  Lord  Ellenborough  has,  I  am  happy  to  say,  after 
proclamationizing  without  end,  seen  fit  to  stop  those 
precious  Somnauth  Gates  short  of  their  intended  destina- 
tion. Someone  has,  I  suppose,  at  last  given  him  a  hint 
that  their  restoration  would  be  likely  to  cause  a  disturb- 
ance. .  .  .  Somewhere  about  the  same  time  that  Master 
Ned  and  Edward  Oswell  were  shooting  their  one  hare 
and  one  partridge,  I 
was  knocking  over  a 
bear  and  a  most 
magnificent  Elk. 
The  former  gentle- 
man gave  me 
some  little  fun  . . . 
I  wounded  him 
as  he  was  going 
up  a  rocky  hill 
and  followed 
him  to  his  den, 
in  which  al- 
though I  could 
see  him  by  lying, 

I  could  not  get  ■'■^^^i^-    -^ 

a  vital  shot  at 
him,  and  it  would  not 
have  done  to  move  much,  as 
bears  are  skeary  animals,  as 
the  Pathfinder  says,  and  I  was 
not  above  two  yards  from  him, 
and  in  the  mouth  of  his  den. 

I  was  obliged  actually  to  have  him  stirred  up  with  a 
stick  through  the  chinks  of  the  stones,  and  the  amusing 
part  of  the  affair  was  to  see  the  brute  crying  to  decline 
the  compliment,  parrying  the  stick  with  his  paws,  until 
we  sharpened  the  point,  when  he  took  courage  and  made 


STIRRED  UP  WITH  A  STICK 
THROUGH  THE  CHINKS  OF 
THE  STONES. 


INDIA  91 

a  decent  roar  and  charge,  ending  his  hfe  very  satis- 
factorily with  a  ball  through  his  head.  By  the  by  are 
bear,  tiger  or  cheetah  skins  any  use  to  you  ?  If  they  are, 
pray  let  me  know,  they  are  to  be  had  for  the  taking 
here.  .  .  .' 

In  one  of  his  letters  he  mentions  that  when  out  in  tents 
in  his  district,  he  keeps  Sunday  as  a  rest,  but  finds  the 
time  hang  heavy  on  his  hands.  His  mother,  always  on 
the  watch  to  do  anything  she  could  to  cheer  or  help  him, 
wrote  off  at  once  to  her  son  Edward  : 

'  I  want  to  make  a  small  selection  of  books  for  Willy ; 
my  mind  is  set  on  sending  him  a  few  to  take  up  on 
Sundays  if  not  on  other  days.  Do  help  me.  I  have  seen 
him  enjoy  a  Latin  hymn,  and  in  your  room  I  saw  some 
time  ago  a  small  book  which  called  him  to  my  mind.  I 
think  if  I  could  send  him  something  of  the  sort  it  would 
please  him.  There  is  a  small  "Thomas  a  Kempis"  in  Latin 
that  I  should  hke.  What  do  you  think  of  "  Palmer's  History 
of  the  Church  "  for  one  ?  There  is  a  small  book  called  "The 
Nestorian  Christians  "  we  are  going  to  read,  (they  were 
found  in  Kurdistan).  If  it  is  interesting  I  shall  send  it.  .  .  . 
It  makes  me  a  little  nervous  when  I  think  of  dear  Wilham, 
quite  alone,  out  in  tents,  though  he  writes  as  if  he  was 
quite  well :  but  he  must  get  so  unused  to  Society.  If  you 
have  any  books  you  think  of  that  you  could  send  me  for 
Willy,  will  you  do  so  ?  He  wanted  to  see  your  examina- 
tion papers.  I  do  think  he  must  want  something  to  occupy 
his  mind  when  quite  alone,  and  if  he  could  revert  at 
times  to  what  he  used  to  take  a  pleasure  in — his  Classics — 
and  they  could  be  of  that  sort  to  raise  the  mind  to  sub- 
stantial things,  I  should  have  much  satisfaction.  A  Greek 
Testament  might,  if  small,  not  be  amiss.  I  feel  perhaps 
you  read  this  and  think  it  all  only  the  workings  of  an 
anxious  old  mother,  but  I  am  not  satisfied  without  en- 
deavouring to  do  some  good. 

'  When  convenient  send  me  Willy's  letter.     I  do  not 


92  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

wish  it  sent  to  Uncle,  as  dear  William  charged  me  never 
to  shew  his  letters.   .  .  .' 

With  Edward's  assistance  a  number  of  books  were 
chosen  and  despatched,  and  William,  to  his  mother's  great 
delight,  read  and  enjoyed  them  all,  and  made  a  point  of 
referring  to  or  quoting  from  them  in  his  letters  home. 

ir.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Brother. 

'  ootacamund, 

'  Neilgherry  Hills, 
'  May  ID,  1843. 

'  .  .  .  Give  me  the  low  country  for  game.  One  very 
odd  circumstance  is  worth  remarking  with  regard  to  the 
tigers,  etc.,  up  here.  Although,  without  any  doubt  they 
wander  up  from  the  low  country,  where  they  are  as  wicked 
as  you  please,  immediately  upon  snuffing  the  air  of  the 
hills,  whether  it  is  the  cold  or  not  I  cannot  say,  they  lose 
all  their  ferocity  and  would  allow  themselves  to  be  kicked. 
It  would  be  labour  lost  to  give  you  any  account  of  these 
hills  and  their  inhabitants,  as  you  would  find  them  so 
much  better  described  in  any  work  on  India.  If  you 
should  have  spare  time  for  such  reading,  I  think  it  might 
interest  you,  particularly  with  respect  to  the  aborigines  or 
Todas  as  they  are  called,  who  are  a  people  entirely  dis- 
tinct and  separated  from  the  other  inhabitants  of  India, 
both  in  language  and  appearance.  They  are  supposed, 
and  I  think  with  some  show  of  likelihood,  to  be  part  of  the 
lost  Ten  Tribes  ;  others  again,  principally,  I  imagine,  from 
the  similarity  of  feature,  suppose  them  to  be  the  remains 
of  an  old  Roman  colony,  and  this  is  in  a  way  supported 
by  ancient  Roman  coins  having  been  found  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  these  Hills,  i.e.  in  my  district,  Coimbatoor, 
and  so  far  as  I  am  able  to  sa}-,  in  no  other  part  of  India.' 

At  first  when  the  long-looked-for  ball-gun  arriv^ed  it 
proved  a  disappointment  in  some  respects  ;  but  it  was 
destined  in  the  next  eight  years  to  afford  him  the  keenest 


INDIA  93 

pleasure  he  ever  knew,  to  establish  him  as  one  of  the 
greatest  shots,  sportsmen  and  hunters  of  the  world ;  and 
provide  him  with  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  stories  and 
reminiscences  for  the  rest  of  his  life. 

'  CoLLEGAL  (36  miles  E.S.E.  of  Mysore,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Cauvery), 

'  My  dear  Ned,  '^"5^-  4>  i843- 

'  I  had  intended  writing  to  Uncle  Ben  on  the  receipt 
of  my  gun,  to  thank  him  for  the  trouble  he  had  been  so 
kind  as  to  take  about  it,  but  as  I  have  some  faults  to  find 
with  it,  and  as  I  know  he  is  rather  sensitive,  and  apt,  in  the 
goodness  of  his  heart,  to  be  annoyed  when  anything  he 
has  interested  himself  in  does  not  happen  to  please  exactly, 
I  have  thought  it  better  to  blow  up  you  and  Mr.  Purdey 
for  what  after  all  is  merely  all  my  own  fault,  inasmuch  as 
I  should  have  sent  fuller  directions  in  the  first  instance  .  .  . 
Well,  the  gun  is  very,  very  heavy  .  .  .  Even  supposing  so 
much  metal  was  required  at  the  breach  and  lower  part, 
nothing  on  earth  will  persuade  me  that  half  an  inch  of 
metal  was  requisite  at  the  muzzle.  This  is  its  chief  fault. 
.  .  .  The  rifle-sight  is  not  the  thing,  but  this,  my  dear 
lad,  was,  I  believe,  an  invention  of  yours.  A  smooth  bore 
is  only  used  for  snap  or  short  shots.  .  .  .  Although  the 
gun  is  not  all  I  could  wish  it  will  do  excellently  well,  and 
shoots  sharp  and  strong.  I  have,  however,  a  crow  to  pick 
with  Mr.  P.  as  regards  the  packing.  .  .  .  From  his  neglect 
to  rub  a  small  quantity  of  mercurial  ointment  over  the 
barrels  and  fittings,  the  whole  reached  me  in  a  most  dis- 
gracefully rusty  state.  The  look  of  the  barrels  is  lost  for 
ever,  as  the  rust  has  eaten  into  them  and  pock-marked  them 
all  over  .  .  .  What  are  you  all  about  at  home  that  you 
don't  hang  Mr.  O'Connell  ?  He'll  gain  his  point  (although 
I  can't  see  exactly  what  benefit  he'll  get  if  he  does)  if  you 
let  him  go  on  much  longer.  .  .  .  Six  years  of  my  banish- 
ment passed.  Hurrah  !  I  begin  to  think  of  warm  fire- 
sides and  warmer  hearts,  parsonages  and  retirement  from 
the   onerous   duties    of    office  !       Uncle    Ben's    morning: 


94  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

trumpet,  and  the  dear  Mother's  "Why,  boys,  not  up  yet  ?" 
seem  again  to  sound  in  my  ears.  God  bless  you  all ;  I 
never  knew  what  it  was  to  have  a  Mother,  a  brother,  or 
a  friend,  till  I  had  neither  one  nor  the  other.  I  don't 
exactly  mean  to  hint  that  I'm  absolutely  friendless  in  this 
country,  but  India  is  a  wide  paddock,  and  I  don't  meet  all 
my  chums  every  day  at  dinner.  .  .  .  I've  a  heavier  charge 
in  my  present  appointment  than  I  have  ever  had  before,  as 
you  will  believe  when  I  tell  you  that  I  have  to  superintend 
the  police  and  magistrates'  business  of  seven  talooks,  each 
about  the  size  of  an  English  county,  besides  the  sole 
superintendence  of  the  revenue  affairs  of  three  more. 
These,  with  occasional  cases  handed  over  to  me  by  my 
collector  for  investigation,  fully  employ  my  hours  of  sun- 
shine. All  my  amusements  take  place  between  three  and 
eight  a.m.  .  .  .  but  John  Company  pay  well,  better  by 
far  than  such  grumbling,  useless  lads  as  I  deserve.  .  .  .  I've 
read  the  account  of  the  lost  Tribes  in  "  The  Nestorians," 
and  agree  with  the  author  that  they  no  longer  deserve  that 
title.  The  work  has  interested  me  considerably.  I'm  of 
a  horrid  prying  disposition,  seeking  to  know  the  mys- 
terious and  obscure,  and  overlooking  everything  before  my 
nose.  ...  I  found  some  notes  of  yours  in  the  book,  on 
Indian  mythology.  Did  you  ever  compare  the  grand 
features  and  recorded  wonders  of  our  religion  with  those 
of  the  superstitions  of  other  nations,  Chinese,  Indian, 
Egyptian,  etc.  ?  If  not  originally  derived  from  a  common 
source  it  is  impossible  to  account  for  their  similarity  in 
various  points.  The  Trinity,  the  Deluge,  and  the  Bible 
description  of  the  creation  of  the  world  and  man,  are 
evidently  the  same  stories  told  in  a  different  way  in  each. 
The  Hindoos,  like  the  Hebrews,  have  a  mystic  term  for 
God,  known  to  but  few  and  pronounced  very  seldom  by 
any,  Woni,  answering  exactly  to  the  Hebrew  Jah.  .  .  . ' 

The  concluding  paragraphs  of  this  letter  suggest  a  some- 
what unusual  line  of  reading  for  a  man  of  action  not  yet 
twenty-five  years  old. 


INDIA  95 

Shortly  after  this,  while  on  a  shooting  excursion  on  the 
banks  of  the  Bhavany  river,  he  was  struck  down  by  fever 
in  so  virulent  a  form  that  for  two  months  his  life  hung  on 
a  thread.  But  the  magnificent  constitution  triumphed, 
and  early  in  October  he  was  convalescent.  He  gained 
physical  strength  rapidly  and  rode  daily;  his  brain,  how- 
ever, remained  much  confused. 

To  his  Brother. 

'  COIMBATOOR, 

'  Octr.  14,  1843. 

'  .  .  .  I  did  not  write,  I  am  ashamed  to  say,  last 
month,  and  I  am  fearful  that  unless  something  reaches 
you  by  this  mail  I  may  have  to  blame  myself  for  causing 
my  dearest  Mother  some  anxiety.  I  am,  then,  quite  well, 
but  so  bothered  just  at  present  by  an  overplus  of  work  that 
it  is  out  of  my  power  to  write  anything  like  a  letter.  .  .  . 
God  bless  you  all  and  love  unspeakable  to  the  Missus.  .  .  .' 

On  addressing  himself  to  the  examination  of  the  accu- 
mulated arrears  of  work,  the  mental  exertion  brought  back 
the  fever,  but  next  morning  he  insisted  on  being  propped 
up  in  his  bed  at  the  door  of  his  tent  and  with  a  wet  towel 
bound  tightly  round  his  burning,  aching  head,  disposed  of 
case  after  case  with  a  grasp  and  celerity  that  surprised  even 
himself.  By  evening  the  entire  list  was  exhausted.  He 
then  turned  to  the  correspondence  and  dictated  answers 
far  into  the  night.  Not  until  the  last  letter  was  finished 
did  he  succumb. 

He  soon  rallied  again,  but  his  system  was  so  saturated 
with  the  virus  that  he  was  liable  to  constant  recurrences. 
At  last  he  acquiesced  in  the  wisdom  of  the  urgent  advice, 
tendered  on  all  sides,  that  he  should  for  a  time  abandon 
all  idea  of  the  visit  to  England  to  which  he  had  so  eagerly 
looked  forward,  and  try  whether  Africa  would  restore  his 
health  as  completely  as  it  had  that  of  many  of  his  Indian 
friends. 


96 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


In  February,  1844,  he  broke  his  decision  to  his  mother. 
The  task  he  had  to  perform  was  a  difficult  one  ;  on  the 
one  hand  he  dared  not  say  how  very  near  death  he  had 
been  or  how  ill  he  still  was  ;  on  the  other,  he  could  not 
allow  his  patient,  devoted  mother  to  imagine  he  had 
lightly  rejected  an  opportunity  of  seeing  her,  after  seven 
years'  separation.  He  anxiously  awaited  her  acknow- 
ledgment of  his  announcement,  writing  meanwhile  his 
usual  monthly  letters. 


PROPPED    UP    IN    HIS    BED    AT    THE    DOOR    OF    HIS    TENT. 


'  COLLEGAL, 

'  My  dearest  Mother,  '  ^«^^^^  20,  1844. 

'  Do  you  remember  my  present  place  of  abode  ?  I 
am  out  in  my  tabernacles  for  the  collection  etc.  of  John 
Company's  money,  and  have  pretty  nearly  as  much  trouble 
in  raising  the  wind,  metaphorically,  as  the  wind  appears 
to  have  in  raising  itself  litei^ally.  That  "  It  is  more  blessed 
to  give  than  to  receive  "  is  not  translatable  into  any  Indian 
language.     I've  been  away  from   Coimbatoor  nearly  six 


INDIA  97 

weeks  and  don't  expect  to  be  back  until  that  period  has 
again  elapsed.  .  .  .     Anything  more  beautiful  than  the 
tints  cast  upon  the  hills  by  the  rising  and  setting  sun,  and 
the  way  in  which  the  green  jungle  is  thrown  out,  cannot 
be  imagined ;   it   is   something   that  people    in    England 
would  go  miles  to  see,  and  such  as  even  I,  accustomed  as 
I  am  to  beautiful  scenery  in  this  magnificent  world  (for 
magnificent  it  is)  can  gaze  upon  with  delight.     Whether 
it  was  born  with  me  or  whether  it  is  an  acquired  passion 
I  know  not,  but  I  love  a  hill  and  can  never  see  one  without 
wishing  to  be  upon  it,  and  seldom  if  possible  deny  myself 
the  gratification  of  a  scramble.     Ardent  sportsman  as  I 
am  I  would  rather  shoot  one  head  of  game,  with  a  fine 
view  to  gloat  over,  than  half  a  dozen  in  a  dense  forest  in 
which  you  can  barely  see  the  beast  you  fire  at,  and  nothing 
else.     The  hillmen  too  are  always  of  a  better  stamp  than 
your  low-countrymen — more  simple  and  more  savage  if 
you  like,  but  uncontaminated  by  the  vices  and  lying  propen- 
sities of  their  brethren  (in  fact  not  so  low)  who  as  always 
is  the  case  with  barbarians,  have  merely  in  their  inter- 
course with  civilized  beings  adopted  the  worst  points  of 
civilization    and   discarded   the   best    as   unworthy   of    a 
thought.  .  .  .     I've  been  such  a  wanderer  for  the  last 
seven  years  that  if  I  ever  get  back  to  you  again,  I'm  afraid 
(although    I    sometimes   think    otherwise)    you'll    find    it 
difficult  to  keep  me  stationary,  and  if  I  can't  leave  you  all 
behind  I  must  e'en  carry  you  along  with  me  in  an  omnibus 
or  gipsy  caravan.     Talking  of  gipsies,  they  say  they  under- 
stand Hindustani.     There  is  certainly  a  race  of  people  in 
this  country  who  answer  in  appearance,  customs  (as  far 
as  I  know)  habits  and  morals,  to  the  dwellers  under  the 
greenwood  tree  of  our  own  dear  land,  and,  what  is  stronger 
proof  still  that  they  are  one  and  the  same  race,  is  the  fact 
that  the  Spanish  gipsies  who  are  doubtless  brothers  of  the 
English  are  called  Zingari  and  the  Indian  gipsies,  whose 
relationship   I   think   is    more    than    probable,  Bringari, 
names  very  similar.  .  .  .' 

VOL.   I.  7 


98  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

When  Mrs.  Oswell  learned  that  her  eager  expectation 
of  a  speedy  meeting  with  her  son  was  not  to  be  realized, 
the  cautious  wording  and  cheerful  assurances  of  the  letter 
did  not  for  a  moment  deceive  her.  She  wrote  praying  to 
be  told  the  truth — the  worst.  '  I  have  lost  four  dear 
children  ;  am  I  to  resign  myself  to  parting  with  a  fifth — 
the  dearest  ?'  To  ease  her  mind  he  complied  fully  with 
her  request,  and  after  apologizing  for  his  '  egotism,'  con- 
tinues : 

' Salem, 

'July  17,  1844. 

* ...  I  only  want  to  satisfy  you,  my  dear  Friend  and 
anxious  Mother,  that  although  I  have  determined  on  going 
to  the  Cape,  no  present  necessity  exists  for  such  a  pro- 
ceeding in  the  bad  state  of  my  health,  but  that  the  voyage 
is  undertaken  entirely  with  a  view  of  avoiding  ulterior 
annoyances.  ...  So  you  must  not,  m}^  ever  dearest 
Mother,  make  yourself  uneasy  without  cause,  and  me 
miserable  by  doing  so.  The  recall  of  Lord  Ellenborough 
astounded  us  all  here  as  much  as  it  seems  to  have  done 
you  in  England.  Far  be  it  from  me  to  offer  any  opinion 
on  the  subject ;  what  may  have  been  his  sins  in  the  eyes 
of  my  masters  I  know  not,  but  I  am  exceedingly  sorry 
that  a  necessity  should  have  arisen  for  recalling  a  man, 
who,  however  he  may  have  treated  our  branch  of  the 
Service,  was  certainly  one  of  the  most  energetic  Governor- 
Generals  in  every  department,  so  far  as  I  know,  that  we 
have  had  for  a  long  time.  His  silly,  bombastic  proclama- 
tions have  been  amply  atoned  for  by  the  very  least  of  the 
material  changes  he  has  made  for  the  better  both  in  the 
civil  and  military  departments,  and  these,  except  his 
apparent  (not  I  believe  real,  but  rather  compulsory)  shonk 
as  we  say — or  love  of  getting  into  a  row,  were  the  sum 
total  of  his  misdeeds.  Say  nothing  however  of  this  my 
opinion  to  anyone.  I  don't  wish  people  to  suppose  me  a 
fool  anxious  to  talk  of  matters  I  don't  profess  to  under- 
stand. ...     I  am  very  anxious  to   hear  of  Ned's  final 


INDIA  99 

destination  and  location  as  a  pastor,  but  shall  be  very 
sorry,  although  I  am  perfectly  aware  of  the  necessity,  for 
a  break-up  of  the  old  household.  I  have  always  regarded 
Uncle  Ben  as  one  of  the  really  true  friends,  at  whose  fire- 
sides I  looked  forward  to  warming  myself,  and  I  will  do 
so  yet,  please  God,  for  a  few  miles  distance  separates  not 
at  home  as  it  does  here.  God  bless  him  and  all  of  you. 
.  .  .  Above  all  things  don't  fret  yourself  about  me  without 
reason,  but  believe  me  to  have  told  you  the  truth.'' 

To  his  Brother. 

'  Madras, 

'  Aug.  20,  1844. 

' .  ,  .  I  sail  for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  on  the  2nd  prox 
in  the  ship  Anna  Robertson.  Since  my  last  letter  I  have 
done  nothing  but  improve,  and  am  almost  ashamed  of 
going  after  all,  but  as  it  seems  the  opinion  of  the  doctors 
that  I  should  be  liable  to  recurrences  of  my  friend  the 
fever,  and  as  I  find,  now  my  appetite  is  returning,  that 
my  digestive  organs  have  suffered  somewhat  in  the  war,  I 
have  made  up  my  mind  to  go.  .  .  .  My  next  will  be 
either  from  the  sea  or  from  the  Cape.  Hurrah  for  the 
waves  and  giraffes  !  Think  of  paying  a  visit  to  Moosela- 
katzi.  King  of  the  Zulus.  Have  you  read  Harris's  book 
on  Africa  ?  If  not,  do  so,  and  envy  me.  Give  a  kiss  and 
my  very  best  love  to  my  Mother  and  tell  her  that  I  am 
really  much  better,  well  in  fact,  if  I  hadn't  a  stomach  ! 
God  bless  you  all.' 

On  the  23rd  he  had  another  severe  attack,  and,  reduced 
to  a  mere  skeleton — from  twelve  stone  to  seven  stone 
twelve  pounds — too  weak  even  to  raise  his  head,  con- 
stantly comatose,  he  insisted  on  being  carried  on  board, 
notwithstanding  the  assurance  of  the  doctors  that  in  their 
opinion  it  could  be  only  to  die. 


'  993214A 


CHAPTER  IV. 

AFRICA. 

1 844-1 846.       AGE    26-28. 

FIRST  EXPEDITION  (WITH  MURRAY)  TO  BA-KAA  HILLS.— 
RETURN  BY  LIMPOPO. 

Arrival  at  Cape  Town — '  I  should  have  made  a  capital  traveller ' 
—  Opening  of  Royal  Exchange — 'Life  of  Arnold'  — 
O'Connell — *  Lardner's  Cyclopaedia' — Start  for  the  In- 
terior— Dreary  scenery — Kuruman,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Moffat— Motito,  M.  Lemire— The  first  lion— The  Ba- 
Katla — Meeting  with  Livingstone,  '  the  most  modest  of 
the  missionaries ' — Magnificent  sport — Ride  on  a  lioness — 
Bushmen  hunters — A  Kafir  nickname — Horse  killed  by  a 
buffalo — Saved  by  his  muscles — An  immense  herd  of  buffa- 
loes— John — The  Ba-Wangketsi — Lost  in  the  Bush;  treed 
by  lions — A  surly  reception  by  the  Ba-Mangwato —  Diamond 
cut  diamond — The  Ba-Kaa — 600  starving  camp-followers 
— 60,000  lbs.  of  meat  in  one  day — Return  to  the  Cape. 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Mother. 

'  Cape  Town, 

'  Oct.  26,  1844. 

* .  .  .  We  arrived  here  after  a  very  pleasant  voyage  of 
something  under  seven  weeks,  during  which  time  I  have 
im.proved  vastly,  and  am  now  quite  well  and  stout  again. 
I  am  for  the  present  living  in  Cape  Town,  but  move  out 
in  a  few  days  to  a  place  about  eight  miles  off  called 
Wynberg.  ...  I  have  met  and  been  introduced  to  more 
friends  and  strangers  since  my  arrival  than  for  the  last 


AFRICA  :  FIRST  EXPEDITION  loi 

seven  years  of  my  life.  Leaving  the  benefit  I  expect  to 
derive  from  the  cruise  out  of  the  question,  I  shall  I  fancy 
gain  much  from  a  little  rubbing  together  with  my  kind, 
for  I  was  I  am  afraid  getting  very  rough  and  junglefied. 
The  mere  having  to  wear  a  coat  seems  to  civilize  one  to  a 
certain  extent.  .  .  .  The  climate  although  called  by  the 
residents  hot  at  present,  is  by  far  the  most  delightful  I 
was  ever  in  in  my  life,  and  I  am  assured  that  it  is  some- 
thing better  than  best  out  at  Wynberg.  The  Precursor — 
steamer ! — arrived  last  night  and  has  created  a  sensa- 
tion. .  .  .  My  present  plan  is  to  remain  here  about 
fifteen  months  and  then  to  take  Ceylon  and  Calcutta  on 
my  way  back  to  Madras,  for  I  certainly  have  a  mania  for 
seeing  new  people  and  places.  Had  it  been  my  lot  I 
should  have  made  a  capital  traveller,  and  should  most 
certainly  have  possessed  one  quality  which  most  travellers 
have  not — that  of  non-scribbling  a  book  !  .  .  .  My  con- 
stitutional idleness  would  have  prevented  me  from  any 
such  perpetration.  .  .  .     God  bless  you  all.' 

For  the  next  eleven  years  it  was  his  lot  to  be  a  traveller, 
and  for  forty-eight  he  possessed  the  quality  of  '  non- 
scribbling  a  book.' 

Mrs.  Oswell  to  her  So7i  William. 

'  Wan  STEAD, 
'  Essex, 

'  Oct.  30,  1844. 

' .  .  .  I  see  by  the  papers  you  sailed  on  the  2nd  of 
September,  and  we  reckon  you  are  before  this  at  the 
Cape.  Sincerely  have  I  prayed  that  wherever  you  go 
God's  blessing  may  be  with  you.  .  .  .  We  had  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  grand  procession  of  the  Queen's 
coming  into  the  City  to  open  the  Exchange.  Uncle 
William  had  seats  and  an  awning  erected  at  the  top  of 
the    Bank,*  and  our  places  were  good.     Our  old   Duke 

*  He  was  at  this  date  the  Governor. 


I02  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

was  so  cheered,  and  the  Queen  was  very  well  received. 
Uncles  William  and  Ben  went  in  Court  dresses  inside 
the  Exchange.  .  .  .  You  see  by  the  papers  Government 
has  received  Lord  Ellenborough  very  well,  and  bestowed 
many  honours  on  him.  There  arrived  a  few,  days  ago  the 
"  Life  of  Dr.  Arnold  "  which  I  had  ordered  for  you.  I  do 
not  know  whether  you  will  think  it  worth  while  to  send 
it  to  the  Cape  ?  He  was  certainly  a  man  of  wonderful 
talents,  and  from  his  letters  took  great  delight  in  his 
calling  as  instructor,  but  he  failed  in  being  a  good 
Churchman,  though  a  good  man,  and  in  many  points 
much  to  be  admired.  .  .  . 

'  Your  loving  Mother  and  friend.' 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Mother. 

'  Wynberg, 

'  Nov.  27,  1844. 

' .  .  .  I  fixed  upon  the  Cape  for  many  reasons  in  pre- 
ference to  England.  ...  I  felt  that  the  getting  well  at 
home,  which  it  was  necessary  I  should  do  before  I  could 
enjoy  it,  would  be  as  it  were  so  much  time  lost  from  the 
happy  six-and-thirty  months  I  hope  to  spend  amongst 
you — a  deduction  and  infringement  of  anticipated  happi- 
ness I  could  not  make  up  my  mind  to  spare.  The  ailing 
body  would  have  chained  down  the  spirit,  and  though  no 
doubt  it  is  pleasant  to  be  nursed  by  those  we  love,  it  is 
far  more  so  to  be  amongst  them  in  health  with  a  capacity 
for  communicating  pleasure  rather  than  solicitude.  .  .  . 
When  I  start  up  country  I  shall  I  think  shape  my  course 
E.N.E.  towards  Graaff  Reinet  and  Colesberg  as  this  is 
the  coolest  part  of  the  Colony  and  affords  most  sport  for 
the  gun  of  which  I  am  still  as  fond  as  ever.  To  an 
Indian  whose  eyes,  say  what  they  will,  have  been  accus- 
tomed to  revel  among  the  beauties  of  fine  views  and  a 
magnificent  country,  the  appearance  of  Africa  is  not 
what  it  might  be  to  you  poor  Islanders.     There  is  an  old 


AFRICA:  FIRST  EXPEDITION  103 

Persian  proverb  that  "  Though  the  pains  of  Purgatory 
seem  Paradise  to  the  evil  spirits,  they  are  as  Hell  to  the 
Angels,"  and  Africa,  bad  as  it  is,  does  not  want  in  bold 
mountain  scenery,  though  it  does  sadly  in  vegetation, 
and  is  at  all  events  something  far  superior  to  Wanstead 
Flats  !  .  .  .  Let  Richardson  drop  Bentley  and  Blackwood, 
and  forward  the  Quarterly  and  Edinhnrgh  Reviews.  .  .  . 
The  Illustraicd  London  Times  or  News  mentions  O'Connell's 
triumph.  Oh  shame  upon  the  Bar  and  Bench  for  such 
a  bungle  !  There  were  certainly  most  gross  irregulari- 
ties and  most  manifest  confusion  in  the  whole  trial.  It 
appeared  to  me  throughout  that  the  fancied  importance 
of  the  case  had  confounded  and  perplexed  the  Judges. 
They  seem  to  have  lost  their  heads,  forgotten  their  true 
position,  allowed  themselves  to  be  brought  into  difficulty 
from  sheer  want  of  tact,  and  ignorance  of  what  ought  to 
have  been  the  mode  of  procedure,  and  then,  instead  of 
calmly  retracing  their  steps  with  the  dignity  which  ought 
to  be  inherent  in  such  men,  on  finding  out  their  error 
they  only  wallowed  on  and  blustered ;  they  were  in  short 
flurried.  The  acts  of  O'Connell  should  have  been  looked 
upon  by  the  Judges  at  least,  as  those  of  any  ordinary  other 
man  ;  but  they  were  not.  If  Richardson  could  pick  me  up 
cheap  the  thirteen  vols,  of  "  Lardner's  Cabinet  Cyclopsedia 
of  Natural  Philosophy,"  and  send  the  account  of  their  cost, 
I  should  be  obliged.  .  .  .' 

The  thirteen  volumes  were  duly  procured  and  despatched, 
and  proved  a  great  resource  to  him  on  his  way  up  country 
and  back  again.  He  mastered  the  contents  completely, 
and  thus  laid  a  fresh  course  in  his  education. 

To  his  Mother.   " 

'  Greenpoint, 

'  Nr.  Cape  Town, 

'  Feb.  22,  1845. 

' .  .  .  After  having  lived  a  stirring  life  for  seven  or 
eight   years,  without  some  strong  excitement,  of  which 


I04  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

the  Cape  is  destitute,  I  find  it  tedious  in  the  extreme  to 
remain  in  one  place,  and  have  already  made  two  or  three 
short  trips  into  the  country,  to  Worcester,  the  Here 
River,  etc.  But  I  am  now  on  the  eve  of  sailing  by  the 
Phcenix,  or  rather  steaming  down  in  the  direction  of 
Graham's  Town  in  company  with  a  Mr.  Murray,  a 
brother  of  a  brother  civilian,  and  purpose  wandering 
about  in  search  of  amusement  and  sport  for  some  four 
or  five  months.  For  that  period  our  wagons,  of  which  I 
will  give  you  a  full  description  from  Graham's  Town,  will 
be  our  only  home,  and  I  look  forward  to  the  trip  with  the 
most  sanguine  hopes  of  entire  satisfaction,  and  have  only 
one  drawback  in  the  fear  that  our  communication  with 
each  other  may  sometimes  be  rather  tardy,  for  posts  and 
postboxes  do  not  much  abound  in  the  direction  we  intend 
moving,  and  two  or  three  months  may  probably  intervene 
between  my  letters,  as  I  shall  have  to  trust  them  to  the 
tender  mercies  of  a  Dutch  Boer,  whose  wagon  at  the 
best  moves  but  slowly,  and  whose  memory  is  none  of  the 
best.  ...  I  will  let  you  hear  of  me  by  every  available 
opportunity  you  may  be  sure,  and  only  warn  you  of  the 
chance  there  is  of  the  interruption  of  a  regular  corre- 
spondence, to  save  you  anxiety.  The  Phcenix  starts  to-day 
and  we  shall  in  all  probability  reach  Graham's  Town 
about  the  end  of  the  month.  ...  I  have  not  entirely 
shaken  off  my  Indian  friend.  However,  as  I  can  be  and 
have  been  twelve  hours  on  horseback  with  manifest  gain 
to  my  health,  you  will  perhaps  smile  at  my  talking  of  my 
ailments  ! 

*  Your  ever  affectionate  Son.' 

To  his  Mother  and  Brother. 

'  LiTTAKOO    OR    KURUMAN, 

'June  4,  1845. 

' .  .  .  A  war  had  broken  out  between  the   Griquas  and 
the  emigrant  Boers  just  previous  to  our  start,  and  their 


AFRICA  :  FIRST  EXPEDITION  105 

disagreement  prevented  our  crossing  the  Orange  River  at 
the  usual  drift,  as  we  might  in  that  case  have  been  stopped, 
and  forcibly  deprived  of  our  powder  and  lead.  By  spanning 
down  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  to  one  of  the  lower 
fords — Vandervalt's — we  managed  to  escape  contact  with 
the  belligerents  and  soon  left  them  far  behind  to  settle 
their  own  affairs,  which  however  they  were  unable  to  do 
without  the  intervention  of  H.M.'s  troops.  Nothing  can 
be  imagined  more  sterile  and  uninterestingthanthe  country 
through  which  we  have  passed.  A  wide  expanse  without 
even  a  bush  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  view,  was  the 
prospect  which  generally  greeted  us  morning,  noon  and 
night.  It  is  true  this  was  occasionally  broken  by  a  few 
straggling  mimosa  trees,  and  frequently  by  lines  of  low 
rocky  hills,  one  undulating  slope  succeeding  another  with 
as  little  variation  as  the  swell  of  the  sea.  You  at  first 
fully  expect  that  when  you  arrive  at  the  top  of  the  rising 
ground  over  which  you  are  moving  at  about  two  miles  an 
hour,  you  will  see  something  to  repay  you  on  the  other 
side.  However  you  soon  learn  that  all  is  alike  barren  and 
naked.  For  the  most  part  it  appears  as  if  lately  upheaved 
from  the  burning  bowels  of  the  earth,  bearing  in  nearly 
every  part  strong  marks  of  volcanic  action.  It  looks  more 
suited  for  the  habitation  of  the  iguanodon  than  of  mortal 
man,  who  nevertheless  wherever  the  grass  is  abundant, 
pastures  his  cattle  unscared  by  the  frightful  dreariness  of 
the  scenery.  However  with  all  I  like  the  life.  I  ought  I 
think  to  have  been  a  gipsy  instead  of  a  Civilian  of  the 
H.E.I.C.S.  The  only  thing  that  puts  me  out  at  all  is  the 
privations  our  oxen,  horses,  and  I  may  add  we  ourselves, 
have  to  put  up  with  for  want  of  water.  We  have  once 
or  twice  had  to  travel  two  days  without  seeing  a  drop 
except  the  small  quantity  carried  in  our  water  casks  for 
our  own  drinking.  This  to  an  Indian  is  rather  unpleasant, 
but  is  still  to  be  borne  I  find  much  more  easily  than  I 
expected.  We  propose  being  away  two  or  three  months 
more  and  then  returning  to  the   Cape.  .  .  .     I've  seen 


io6  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

enough  of  Africa  already,  and  by  far  too  little  of  wood 
and  water  for  the  last  six  months.  This  is  a  missionary 
station,  and  we  have  been  most  kindly  received  and  enter- 
tained by  the  resident,  Mr.  Moffat,  who  has  published  a 
book  which  I  think  would  interest  you.  He  lives  here 
with  some  fellow  missionaries  and  Dr.  Hume  the  most 
enterprising  of  the  traders.  Kuruman  is  about  300  miles 
N.  by  W.  of  Colesberg.  I  shall  I  think  be  able  to  amuse 
you  not  a  little,  should  we  ever  meet  over  a  winter's  fire- 
side, with  a  narrative  of  my  travels.  A  wagon,  though  a 
wonderful  thing  for  a  wagon,  is  but  a  bad  house  if  one  is 
very  fond  of  one's  creature  comforts,  which  I  am,  among 
those  who  know  me,  considered  most  surprisingly  careless 
of.  The  only  inconvenience  I  find  is  the  want  of  room 
for  dressing,  and  the  heat  which  accumulates  in  it  during 
the  day.  My  companion  complains  more  of  the  cold,  but 
at  this  I  laugh  and  delight  myself.  It  is  cool  enough  at 
night  and  in  the  evenings,  the  thermometer  having  twice 
sunk  as  low  as  17  degrees  below  freezing,  and  a  good  hard 
frost  is  generally  our  lot.  But  I  actually  don't  feel  it,  and 
am  told  that  I  am  so  full  of  caloric  that  I  shall  take  a  long 
time  to  cool.  We  sit  out  in  the  open  air  to  dinner  and 
breakfast  before  our  camp  fire,  and  experience  no  incon- 
venience, though  you  in  England  would  be  shivering  in  a 
room.  This  I  attribute  to  the  great  dryness  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, not  a  drop  of  rain  falling  for  many  months.  In 
India  it  would  be  madness  to  attempt  bivouacking  in  the 
open  air,  but  here  as  I  have  proved  you  may  sleep  per- 
fectly safely  rolled  up  in  your  skin  blanket  at  the  foot  of 
the  first  tree  you  like.  The  sun  is  just  setting,  and  his 
parting  beams  will  afford  me  only  sufficient  light,  seated 
as  I  am  in  the  inside  of  my  wagon,  to  see  to  close  this. 
So  God  bless  you.' 

Referring  elsewhere  to  this  visit  to  Kuruman  he  says  : 

*  We  stayed  a  short  time  at  the  station  of  that  grand 
old    patriarch    of    missionaries,    Mr.    Moffat,    where    we 


AFRICA  :  FIRST  EXPEDITION  107 

received  all  the  kindly  hospitality,  attention  and  advice 
possible  from  him  and  Mrs.  Moffat — verily  the  two  best 
friends  travellers  ever  came  across.  I  shall  never  forget 
their  affectionate  courtesy,  their  beautifully  ordered  house- 
hold, and  their  earnest  desire  to  help  us  on  in  every  way. 
He  advised  us  to  go  to  Livingstone  who  was  then  sta- 
tioned at  Mabotse — 220  miles  or  so  to  the  Northward, 
and  obtain  from  him  guides  and  counsel  for  our  further 
wanderings.' 

To  his  Brother. 

'  Graham's  Town, 

'  Nov.  29,  1845. 

'  .  .  .  On  the  third  day  after  leaving  Kuruman  we 
arrived  at  Motito,  a  French  Missionary  station,  and 
quitted  it  on  the  fourth,  after  having  been  most  hospitably 
entertained  by  the  Rev.  M.  Lemire.  .  .  .  You  here  first 
begin  to  meet  with  the  mimosa  tree  in  abundance,  and  the 
most  uninteresting  of  all  scenery,  the  open  plain,  is  in 
places  converted  by  its  verdure  into  the  most  picturesque 
and  park-like  country.  This  description  holds  good  up  to 
the  Ba-Katla,  with  the  exception  of  the  two  choois,  or  salt 
lakes,  and  their  neighbourhoods  which  were  more  desolate 
than  anything  we  had  previously  passed  over,  and  of  which 
I  can,  I  fear,  convey  to  you  no  adequate  idea,  but  must 
ask  you  to  picture  to  yourself  a  burnt,  barren,  interminable 
plain,  literally  without  a  bush,  and  exposed  in  consequence 
to  the  full  influence  of  the  most  fiery  of  suns.  The 
sasayby,  hartebeest,  wildebeest,  quagga,  and  springbok 
were  now  tolerably  abundant  though  very  difficult  of  access, 
and  at  the  first  outspan  beyond  the  second  or  greater  chooi, 
we  heard  for  the  first  time  the  voice  of  Leo,  within  sixty 
yards  of  our  wagons.  It  was  night  and  dark,  and  though 
afterwards  habituated  to  his  presence,  I  fancy  neither  of 
us  will  readily  forget  the  anxiety  with  which  we  listened 
to  his  serenade  ;  for  we  were  unaware  of  the  perfect  un- 
concern shown  by  the  horses  and  oxen  to  his  roar,  and 


io8  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

even  to  the  view  of  him  if  unaccompanied  by  his  smell, 
and  feared  that  they,  one  or  both,  vi^ould  inevitably  break 
loose  from  the  wagons  to  which  they  were  made  fast. 
However  nothing  of  the  kind  occurring,  we  were  comforted 
and  retired  to  rest.  When  I  tell  you  that  the  loss  of 
either  horses  or  oxen  would  have  been  irreparable  in  the 
country  in  which  we  then  were,  and  that  our  chance  of 
sport  entirely  depended  on  them,  you  may  imagine  that 
uninitiated  as  we  were,  we  had  something  of  a  reason  for 
worrying  ourselves.  We  fell  in  with  large  game  one  march 
beyond  the  Meritsane  River,  where  the  first  elands  died. 
The  eland  is  a  large  buck  of  the  genus  antelope,  about 
i8  hands  in  height.  .  .  .  On  arriving  at  the  Ba-Katla, 
the  last  Missionary  station,  the  country  changed  its 
character  entirely,  and  still  for  the  better.  Fine  ranges 
of  hills,  well  wooded  and  watered  close  you  in  on  every 
side,  and  the  scenery  is  strikingly  like  some  parts  of  India. 
It  was  now  that  we  really  began  to  enjoy  our  life  as  sports- 
men. After  staying  two  days  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Living- 
stone, the  best,  most  intelligent  and  most  modest  (a  rarer 
virtue  is  modesty  than  you  suppose)  of  the  missionaries, 
and  having  by  his  advice  taken  a  direction  which  led  us  at 
first  rather  to  the  westward,  and  eventually  to  the  N.E., 
we  certainly  for  three  months  revelled  in  the  finest  climate, 
the  finest  shooting,  and  anything  but  tame  scenery.  I 
shall  give  you  no  detailed  account  of  our  progress  and 
sport,  although  I  at  first  intended  doing  so,  and  there- 
fore began  this  letter  in  your  name  rather  than  in  my 
Mother's,  fearing  that  the  repetition  of  "we  killed  this, 
that  or  the  other,"  probably  but  of  little  interest  to  you, 
would  entirely  disgust  her.  If  you  should  ever  wish  to 
hear  particulars  of  the  deeds  then  committed,  are  they  not 
written  in  the  Chronicles,  or  my  notes  which  you  may 
read  if  you  please.  Suffice  it  then  to  say  that  we  were 
fully  repaid  for  our  long  journey,  that  we  penetrated 
further  than  anyone  had  done  before  us,  saw  as  much  as 
we  could  with  one  pair  of  eyes  apiece,  and  last,   not  least, 


3>  S*- 


Route  in  1845 


AFRICA  :  FIRST  EXPEDITION  109 

slew  game  in  abundance — elephants,  rhinoceroses,  hippo- 
potami, giraffes,  et  hoc  genus  omne.  We  returned  by 
nearly  the  same  route  as  we  went,  that  is  to  say,  from 
Mabotse  southwards.  I  give  you  a  small  sketch  of  the 
line,  as  from  Kuruman  we  penetrated  upwards  of  400  miles 
into  the  interior,  far,  far  beyond  the  maps  of  South  Africa, 
I  should  much  like  to  make  another  tour,  and  had  I  but 
three  months  more  leave  would  certainly  do  so  ;  or  if  you 
at  home  would  give  me  leave,  I  would  risk  the  losing  of  my 
Head  Assistantship  and  return  to  India  after  another 
delightful  trip,  perfectly  satisfied  to  continue  a  humble 
Assistant  Collector  for  years  to  come.  And  in  addition  to 
the  pleasure  I  should  most  assuredly  derive  from  such  an 
expedition  I  should,  if  I  may  judge  from  the  extent  to 
which  I  have  already  improved  in  health  and  strength,  be- 
come completely  re-established  and  able  to  withstand  the 
insinuations  of  our  Indian  clime,  unharmed.  Of  doing  this 
just  at  present  I  am  free  to  own  I  have  my  fears,  although 
my  term  be  but  short.  God  bless  you  all.  Kiss  my 
Mother  for  me.  The  nearer  the  time  approaches  the  more 
earnest  is  my  wish  to  see  you  all  again.  Preaching  nervous 
work,  eh  ?  I  could  manage  it  in  Tamil,  I  think,  but  am 
afraid  I  should  break  down  in  English,  for  I  have  for  a 
long  time  found  it  easier  to  express  myself  impudently  and 
concisely  in  m.y  acquired  than  in  my  mother  tongue.' 

'  An  incident,'  he  writes  later,  '  highly  creditable  to 
Kafir  womanhood  occurred  just  as  we  reached  Mabotse. 
The  women,  as  is  their  custom,  were  working  in  the 
fields — for  they  hoe,  and  the  men  sew — and  a  young  man, 
standing  by  the  edge  of  the  bush,  was  chatting  with  them. 
A  lioness  sprang  on  him,  and  was  carrying  him  off,  when 
one  of  the  women  ran  after  her,  and  catching  her  by  the 
tail  was  dragged  for  some  little  distance.  Hampered  by 
the  man  in  her  mouth  and  the  woman  behind  her,  she 
slackened  her  pace,  whereupon  her  assailant  straddled 
over  her  back  and  hit  her  across  the  nose  and  head  with 


no 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


a  heavy  short-handled  hoe  till  she  dropped  her  prey  and 
slunk  into  cover.  The  man  was  the  woman's  husband  ! 
Would  Mrs.  Smith  do  as  much  for  Mr.  Smith  ?  Could 
she  do  more  ?' 


■*%;. 


-^ 


STRADDLED  OVER  HER  BACK  AND  HIT  HER  WITH  A  HOE. 


For  many  weeks  of  this  journey  he  hunted  with  a  party 
of  Bushmen  and  gained  valuable  hints  from  them  about 
beasts  and  their  ways,  '  They  are,'  he  says,  '  past 
masters  in  the  art  of  hunting,  upright,  tall,  sinewy  fellows  ; 
with  their  skill  and  the  abundance  of  game  they  never 
suffer  hunger.  I  was  very  fond  of  them ;  they  tell  the 
truth,  and  instead  of  being  mere  pot-hunters,  are  enthu- 
siastic sportsmen,  enjoying  the  work  as  much  as 
yourself.' 

This  experience  developed  his  natural  alertness  and 
powers  of  observation,  and  educated  his  sight  and  hearing 
to  such  a  degree  that  the  Kafirs  allowing  him  to  be  their 
equal  in  "  spooring,"  beastcraft  and  woodcraft,  and  in  the 
marvellous  instinct  of  locality,  gave  him  the  name  oiTlaga, 
(on  the  look-out,  wary,  as  of  game)  which  clung  to  him 
throughout  his  travels  in  Africa.     He  was  justly  proud  of 


AFRICA:  FIRST  EXPEDITION  113 

this  tribute  from  men  who  were  the  outcome  of  centuries 
of  the  necessary  cultivation  of  the  qualities  to  the  highest 
point. 

The  country  of  the  Ba-Katla  swarmed  with  buffaloes,  and 
he  had  several  narrow  escapes  from  them  : 

'  One  morning  whilst  the  wagons  were  moving  slowly 
through  the  low  bush  three  bulls  crossed  the  line  of  march. 
I  was  on  my  horse  Superior,  and  with  a  shout  to  Murray 
that  I  meant  to  make  sure  of  a  bag,  galloped  after  them, 
and  singling  out  one,  got  alongside  of  him  within  five  feet, 
and  fired.  He  pitched  upon  his  head  and  lay  perfectly 
motionless.  Making  sure  he  was  dead  I  would  not  give 
him  the  second  barrel,  and  turned  the  horse  to  ride  after 


HORNS    OF    THE    BUFFALO    THAT    KILLED    SUPERIOR. 
Length  inside  curve,  77  inches  ;  between  tips,  24  inches.     Width,  14  inches. 

the  two  others  which  were  still  in  view ;  but  before  I 
could  get  my  animal  into  his  stride  the  wounded  beast 
sprang  up  and  struck  him  heavily.  I  felt  the  thud,  but 
the  horse  did  not  fall,  and  cantered  on  for  twenty  yards, 
when  the  whisk  of  his  tail  dabbled  my  trousers  with  blood, 
and  on  getting  off  I  found  a  hole  thirty  inches  deep  and 
nearly  wide  enough  to  get  into,  in  the  flank,  for  the  horn 
had  been  driven  up  to  its  base.  The  bull  was  two  weak 
to  follow  up  the  attack,  and  died  where  he  stood ;  the 
VOL.   I.  8 


114  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

horse  crawled  a  few  yards  and  then,  seeing  it  was  a  hope- 
less case,  I  put  a  ball  through  his  head.' 

On  another  occasion  his  life  was  saved  by  his  muscles  : 

'  Coming  homeward  one  afternoon  we  stumbled  into 
the  middle  of  a  herd  asleep  in  the  long  grass.  Our  sudden 
appearance  startled  them  from  their  dreams ;  a  panic 
seized  them  and  away  they  galloped  in  the  wildest  con- 
fusion. One  old  patriarch  had  been  taking  his  siesta 
apart  from  the  rest  in  a  dense  patch  of  bush  to  the  right ; 
the  sound  of  the  gun  and  the  rush  of  his  companions 
roused  him,  and  with  one  barrel  loaded,  as  I  ran  after  his 
relations  I  found  myself  face  to  face  with  him  within  ten 
yards.  He  was  evidently  bent  on  mischief.  We  stared 
at  one  another  for  a  second  and  then  I  fired  at  his  broad 
chest ;  it  was  the  best  I  could  do,  for  his  nose  was  up  and 
the  points  of  his  shoulders  were  not  exposed.  He  plunged 
at  me  instantly ;  I  fortunately  caught  a  projecting  bough 
of  the  minosa  tree  under  which  I  was  standing  and  drawing 
my  knees  up  to  my  chin  he  passed  below  me.' 

'  I  once  found  myself  in  an  immense  herd.  The  bush 
was  full  of  them,  I  was  surrounded  and  had  nothing  to  do 
but  stand  still.  They  dashed  about  me  like  rooks  after  the 
wireworm  in  a  newly  ploughed  field  and  I  had  the  sensa- 
tion of  drawing  myself  in  very  tight  about  the  waistband. 
Till  they  thinned  out  into  a  tail  I  could  not  begin  to  shoot, 
but  there  were  such  numbers  that  even  then  I  knocked  over 
six  at  exceedingly  close  quarters.  The  danger  was  being 
run  over  or  butted  down  in  the  headlong  stampede.  The 
same  thing  has  happened  to  me,  and  I  dare  say  to  many 
all-round  shots,  with  elephants.  How  they  avoided  or 
missed  you — for  they  didn't  seem  to  try  to  avoid — you 
can't  tell ;  you  come  out  of  it  without  a  scratch,  and  there- 
fore as  a  rule  think  no  more  of  it.' 

Leaving  the  Ba-Katla  after  three  months'  magnificent 
sport,  the  wagons    made  their  way  slowly  towards  the 


CAUGHT    A    PROJECTING    BOUGH    .    .    .    AND    DRAWING    MY 
KNEES    UP    ...    HE    PASSED    BELOW    ME. 


8—2 


AFRICA:  FIRST  EXPEDITION  117 

Ba-Wangketsi.  Before  reaching  them  an  event  occurred 
which,  in  Oswell's  words,  '  coloured  the  whole  of  my 
African  life  and  will  colour  my  life  as  long  as  I  live ' : 

'  We  were  trekking  through  some  low  sand-hills  covered 
with  scrub,  when  three  lions  crossed  about  fifty  yards 
ahead  of  the  oxen.  Snatching  up  a  gun  I  jumped  from 
the  wagon  and  called  upon  someone  to  follow  me  with  a 
heavy  rifle  that  was  always  kept  loaded  as  a  reserve  battery. 
I  pressed  so  closely  on  the  leisurely-retreating  trio  that 
the  largest  stopped  short.  I  squatted,  intending  to  take 
his  shoulder  as  he  turned,  looked  round  for  my  second 
gun,  and  heard  the  bearer,  who  was  close  to  me,  whisper 
in  Dutch,  "  You  can  get  nearer  by  the  ant-hill."  The 
move  lost  me  the  lion,  as  he  broke  away  after  his  com- 
panions ;  and  then  for  the  first  time  I  took  notice  of  the 
cool,  tall,  handsome  lad,  who  had  offered  me  advice,  and 
recognised  in  him,  at  once,  the  stuff  to  make  a  henchman 
of.  From  that  day  forth  he  was  my  right-hand  man  in 
the  field,  and  never  failed  me. 

'  John  Thomas  was  an  Africander  born  at  the  Cape,  of 
parents  probably  slaves,  but  as  a  grand  specimen  of  man- 
hood, good-nature,  faithfulness  and  cheerful  endurance,  I 
never  met  his  equal,  black  or  white.  Plucky  to  a  fault,  he 
was  the  least  quarrelsome  of  men,  the  life  and  light  of  our 
camp  fires,  and  the  pet  of  the  Kafirs  who  seemed  at  once 
to  understand  his  quiet  unpretending  nature,  and  always 
made  their  requests  to  me  through  "  bono  Johnny."  ' 

He  had  been  with  the  Ba-Wangketsi  for  a  fortnight, 
enjoying  even  better  success  than  usual  with  his  gun,  when 
he  had  an  experience  interesting  and  exciting  enough  in 
itself,  but  particularly  remarkable  for  having  made  a  greater 
impression  on  him  and  remaining  more  accurately  stamped 
on  his  mind  in  every  detail,  than  any,  save  one,  of  his 
numerous  after  adventures : 

'  One  morning  our  head-man  told  me  there  was  no  food 


ii8  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

for  the  twelve  or  fourteen  dogs,  our  night-watchmen,  so  I 
took  up  my  gun,  which  was  loaded  only  in  one  barrel,  and 
strolled  out  on  the  chance  of  a  shot,  but  as,  kill  or  miss,  I 
intended  to  return  immediately  I  did  not  carry  any  spare 
ammunition.  A  reedy  pond  lay  close  in  advance  of  the 
wagons,  in  a  little  opening  ;  beyond  this,  as  on  every  other 
side,  stretched  a  sea  of  bush  and  mimosa  trees.  Two 
hundred  yards  from  the  outspan  I  came  upon  a  clump  of 
quagga  and  wounded  one,  which,  though  mortally  hit, 
struggled  on  before  falling,  I  followed,  and  marking  the 
place  where  it  fell,  set  my  face,  as  I  thought  towards  the 
wagons,  meaning  to  send  out  men  for  the  flesh.  No  doubt 
of  the  direction  crossed  my  mind — the  pool  was  certainly 
not  more  than  four  hundred  yards  away  in  a  straight 
line  and  I  thought  I  could  walk  down  upon  it  without 
any  trouble ;  so  taking  no  notice  of  my  out  tracks  which 
had  bent  slightly  in  following  the  quagga,  I  started. 

'  It  was  now  about  lo  a.m. ;  little  did  I  think  that  5  p.m. 
would  find  me  still  seeking  three  vans  nearly  as  large  as 
Pickford's,  and  half  an  acre  of  water.  In  my  first  cast  I 
cannot  say  whether  I  went  wide  or  stopped  short  of  the 
mark  I  was  making  for,  and  it  was  not  until  I  had  wandered 
carelessly  hither  and  thither  for  half  an  hour,  feeling  sure 
that  it  was  only  the  one  particular  bush  in  front  of  me 
which  hid  the  w^agons,  that  I  very  unwillingly  owned  to 
myself  that  I  was  drifting  without  bearings  in  this  bushy 
sea. 

'  The  sun  was  nearly  overhead,  and  gave  but  slight  help 
as  to  direction,  and  the  constant  turning  to  avoid  thick 
patches  of  thorns  rendered  it  nearly  impossible,  in  the 
absence  of  any  guiding  points,  to  hold  a  fixed  course  in 
this  maze  of  sameness.  I  tried  w^alking  in  circles  in  the 
hopes  of  cutting  the  wheel  tracks,  but  though  on  a  pre- 
vious occasion  this  plan  had  succeeded,  it  now  failed. 

*  As  with  empty  gun  I  plodded  on,  occasional  small 
herds  of  rooyebuck  and  blue  wildebeest,  evidently  very 
much  at  home,  swept  and  capered  by  me,  and  stopping 


I    HAD    REACHED    THE    LOWEST    BOUGH    .    .    .    WHEN    ...    A    DEEP 
NOTE    .    .    .    TOLD    ME    THAT    A    LION    WAS    PASSING. 


AFRICA:  FIRST  EXPEDITION  i2i 

and  looking  at  me  with  wondering  eyes,  increased  my 
feeling  of  loneliness.  I  had  no  doubt  of  regaining  my 
party  next  day  at  latest,  and  cared  but  little  for  passing  a 
night  in  the  jungle ;  but  bewildered  and  baffled,  I  envied 
the  instinct  of  the  so-called  brutes,  which  careless  of  their 
steps,  were  nevertheless  quite  sure  of  their  ways. 

'  Twilight  near  the  Tropics  is  very  short.  Just  before 
the  sun  set,  therefore,  I  followed  a  game  track  which  I 
knew  would  lead  to  water,  as  it  was  still  early  in  the 
season  and  the  rain  supply  had  not  dried  up  in  the  hollows. 
At  dusk  I  reached  a  pool  similar  to  the  one  I  had  quitted 
in  the  morning.  After  a  good  draught,  I  began  collecting 
firewood,  but  for  once  it  was  very  scarce,  and  the  night 
closed  in  so  rapidly  that  a  bare  hour's  supply  was  all  my 
store.  Partly  to  save  fuel,  partly  in  the  hope  that  as 
night  crept  on  signals  would  be  made  from  the  wagons, 
I  climbed  a  tree  which  stood  by  the  side  of  the  water,  and 
had  not  been  long  perched  before  I  heard,  though  so  far 
off  that  I  could  hardly  catch  the  sound,  the  smothered 
boom  of  guns.  Alarmed  at  my  absence  my  companions 
suspected  the  cause  and  were  inviting  my  return ;  but  it 
required  a  very  pressing  invitation  indeed  to  induce  a  man 
to  walk  through  two  miles  of  an  African  wood,  in  those 
days,  on  a  dark  night.  This  particular  spot,  too,  was 
more  infested  with  lions  than  any  other,  save  one,  I  was 
ever  in  ;  and  though  harmless  and  cowardly  enough,  as  a 
rule,  in  the  day,  they  were  not  likely  to  prove  very  accept- 
able followers  at  night. 

'  But  I  had  been  walking  all  day  under  a  tropical  sun, 
my  clothing  was  wet  with  perspiration,  and  it  now  froze 
hard — for  freeze  it  can  in  Southern  Africa — and  I  was 
bitterly  cold.  I  determined  to  come  down  and  light  my 
fire.  I  knew  it  would  last  but  a  short  time,  but  thought 
I  would  make  the  best  of  it  and  thaw  myself  before 
attempting  to  return.  I  had  reached  the  lowest  bough  of 
my  tree  and  placed  my  hand  beside  my  feet  before  jumping 
off,  when  from  the  bush  immediately  under  me  a  deep 


122  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

note  and  the  sound  of  a  heavy  body  sHpping  through  the 
thorny  scrub,  told  me  that  a  Hon  was  passing.  Whether 
the  creaking  of  the  tree  had  roused  his  attention  and  caused 
him  to  speak  so  opportunely,  I  don't  know,  but  without 
the  warning  in  another  half  second  I  should  have  alighted 
on  his  back.  I  very  quickly  put  two  or  three  yards  more 
between  the  soles  of  my  feet  and  the  ground. 

'  Presently  from  the  upper  end  of  the  pool  came  the 
moaning  pant  of  a  questing  lion  ;  it  was  immediately 
answered  from  the  lower  end.  Their  majesties  were  on 
the  look  out  for  supper,  and  had  divided  the  approaches 
to  the  water  between  them.  It  was  much  too  dark  to 
see  anything,  but  from  the  sounds  they  seemed  to  walk 
in  beats,  occasionally  telling  one  another  of  their  where- 
abouts by  a  low  pant  ;  of  my  presence  I  think  they  were 
not  aware. 

'  This  went  on  for  an  hour  or  more  and  I  grew  colder 
and  colder ;  my  beard  and  moustache  were  stiff  with 
frost ;  I  could  not  much  longer  endure  the  cramped  posi- 
tion in  my  scraggy  tree,  and  I  felt  I  must  get  down  and 
light  the  fire,  when  suddenly  up  came  the  blessed  moon 
and  right  under  her  the  sounds  of  three  or  four  muskets 
fired  together.  With  the  help  of  her  light  and  partial 
direction  in  case  my  companions  grew  tired  of  firing,  I  was 
not  going  to  stay  up  a  tree  to  be  frozen.  Waiting,  there- 
fore, until  she  was  about  one  tree  high,  and  until  the 
lions  were  far  asunder  on  their  respective  beats  as  well 
as  I  could  make  out  from  the  sounds,  I  came  down  and 
capping^t  was  all  I  could  do,  for  as  I  said,  I  had  started 
without  powder  and  ball — my  empty  gun,  I  passed  at  the 
double  round  the  end  of  the  water,  and  dived  into  the 
bush  on  the  opposite  side. 

'  I  have  no  doubt  my  desire  was  to  get  on  as  quickly  as 
possible,  but  reasons  for  a  cautious  advance  soon  made 
themselves  heard  on  all  sides.  An  African  forest  was 
then  alive  at  night.  I  thought  only  of  the  lions,  and 
especially  of  the  two  I  had  left  at  the  water ;  but  every 


THE    BAULKED    ROAR    OF    A    DISAPPOINTED    LION    RANG    THROUGH 

THE    CAMP. 


AFRICA  :  FIRST  EXPEDITION  125 

nocturnal  animal  that  stirred  kept  me  on  the  stretch — the 
less  noise  the  more  danger ;  the  movement  of  a  mouse 
might  well  be  mistaken  for  the  stealthy  tread  of  the  King 
of  the  Cats. 

'  Among  the  trees  the  moon  gave  but  a  scanty  light,  and 
nearly  every  minute  I  had  to  stop  and  listen  as  some 
unseen  animals  passed  near  me.  Sometimes  I  could 
recognise  them  by  their  cry,  but  mostly  it  was  a  running 
that  could  not  be  seen  of  skipping  beasts,  that  troubled 
me.  The  only  animal  I  really  saw  that  night  was  a 
rhinoceros  that  with  head  and  tail  up,  and  in  a  terrible 
fuss,  crossed  a  few  yards  before  me. 

'  A  sound  in  front,  and  I  strained  my  e3'es  into  the 
shadowy  darkness  in  advance  ;  the  rustling  of  a  leaf  told 
of  life  to  the  right  or  left  ;  the  snapping  of  a  twig  of 
possible  death  in  the  rear.  But  I  struggled  on  for  an 
hour  I  should  think,  when,  stooping  to  clear  a  low 
bough,  four  or  five  muskets  fired  together  within  fifty 
yards,  told  me  I  was  at  home  again. 

*  I  hope  I  was  thankful  then ;  I  know  I  am  now.  Two 
of  my  Hottentot  servants  and  a  batch  of  Kafirs  had  come 
some  distance  into  the  bush  in  the  hope  of  meeting  me, 
and  escorted  me  to  the  fire  in  triumph.  As  I  held  my 
still  only  half-thawed  hands  over  it,  the  baulked  roar  of  a 
disappointed  lion  rang  through  the  camp.  He  had  not 
been  heard  before  that  night.  "  He  has  missed  you, 
Tlaga,  by  a  little  this  time,"  said  my  black  friends,  "let 
him  go  back  to  his  game." 

'They  were  right,  for  in  the  morning  we  found  his 
spoor  on  mine  for  a  long  way  back.  Whether  he  had 
come  with  me  from  the  water,  or  I  had  picked  up  a 
follower  in  the  bush,  I  never  knew.  My  constantly  stop- 
ping and  listening  probably  saved  me,  for  a  lion  seldom 
makes  up  his  mind  very  suddenly  to  attack  a  man,  unless 
hard  pressed  by  hunger.  He  likes  to  know  all  about  it 
first,  and  my  turning,  and  slow  jerky  progress  had  doubt- 
less roused  his  suspicions.' 


126  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

From  the  Ba-Wangketsi,  he  made  his  way  to  the  Ba- 
Mangwato,  and  here  met  with  a  surly  reception,  for  the 
first  and  only  time  during  his  sojourn  in  Africa.  His 
pluck  and  determination,  however,  were  equal  to  the 
occasion.  Before  sunset  he  sent  some  of  his  Hottentots 
to  reconnoitre ;  they  discovered  and  reported  to  him  that 
three  hundred  yards  from  the  camp,  in  the  direction  in 
which  the  wagons  headed,  there  was  a  cul-de-sac,  the 
steep  hills  suddenly  closing  in  and  offering  no  passage 
through  them,  and  that  the  ground  was  strewn  with 
human  skulls.  Watch  was  kept  all  night  and  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Ba-Kaa  Hills  ascertained,  and  as  the  morning 
broke  he  had  the  oxen  tied  ready  for  inspanning  to  the 
trek-tow,  the  horses  to  the  wagon-wheels,  and  allotted  to 
each  man  his  tree,  impressing  on  all  that  in  case  of  a 
disturbance  they  were  to  follow,  not  set  an  example,  and 
that  he  would  shoot  anyone  who  fired  a  shot  before 
he  did. 

In  the  morning  Secomi  soon  made  his  appearance  at 
the  camp  fire,  surrounded  by  his  spearmen,  and  as  he 
sat  down  Oswell  turned  himself  so  that  the  muzzle  of 
his  gun,  which  lay  across  his  knees,  covered  the  chief. 
Believing  he  had  the  party  in  a  trap,  he  steadily  refused 
to  grant  guides  to  the  Ba-Kaa. 

Wearied  of  the  long  discussion,  Oswell  gave  the  word 
to  inspan  the  oxen  and  loose  the  horses  ;  the  chief  and 
his  followers  evidently  considered  their  opportunity  had 
come.      But : 

'  I  ordered  my  men  to  turn  the  wagons  and  as  the  oxen 
slowly  brought  them  round  and  faced  in  the  direction 
of  the  Ba-Kaa,  the  faces  of  the  Ba-Mangwato  were 
a  sight  to  see.  .  .  .  They  stood  stupefied  and  crest- 
fallen, and  the  wagons  moved  on  without  a  word  or  sign 
of  opposition.  I  brought  up  the  rear  with  loose  oxen  and 
horses.  We  had  gained  three  hundred  or  more  yards 
.  .  .  when  I  heard  the  sound  of  running  behind  me,  and 


AFRICA:  FIRST  EXPEDITION  129 

turning  saw  a  man  coming  on  at  the  top  of  his  speed  after 
us.  He  threw  up  his  hands  to  shew  he  was  carrying 
no  arms,  and  I  grounded  my  gun  and  waited  for  him. 
"What  is  it?"  "I  am  sent  by  the  Chief  to  take  you 
wherever  you  like  to  go."  "  Lead  on  to  the  Ba-Kaa 
then."  ' 

On  arriving  at  the  Ba-Kaa  he  found  them  in  a  pitiable 
condition ;  the  crops  had  failed  and  they  were  starving. 
The  Chief  welcomed  him  warmly,  and  besought  him  to 
take  his  people  and  feed  them.  He  accepted  six  hundred 
men,  women  and  children,  all  in  the  most  terrible  state 
of  emaciation  and  sickness,  and  started  for  the  hunting- 
grounds,  whence  after  seven  weeks  he  sent  them  back  to 
their  kraals  plump,  well,  and  happy — not  one  missing,  ill, 
or  feeble.  They  had  to  requisition  porters  to  help  them 
carry  the  large  faggots  they  had  collected  of  sun-dried 
strips  of  meat.  How  enormous  was  the  entire  amount 
may  be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  the  one  day's  shooting 
previous  to  their  departure  had  given  them  over  60,000  lbs. 
— fourteen  hippopotami,  two  large  bull  elephants,  a  rhino- 
ceros, a  giraffe  and  a  quagga. 

The  hippopotami — the  first  they  had  killed — were  some- 
what unexpectedly  secured.  Murray  had  made  a  detour 
to  the  north-east,  intending  to  strike  the  river  low  down 
and  follow  it  up  to  the  encampment,  while  Oswell  hunted 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.  Hearing,  however,  shot 
after  shot  from  the  direction  taken  by  Murray,  Oswell 
hastened  thither,  and  in  a  few  minutes  came  upon  a  kind 
of  backwater  from  the  main  river,  very  deep,  150  yards 
long  by  50  wide,  with  high  banks. 

On  that  opposite  to  him  sat  Murray  blazing  away,  his 
after-rider  loading  one  of  the  guns.  '  Look  at  these 
beasts !'  he  cried ;  and,  indeed,  the  spectacle  was  most 
remarkable.  The  pool  was  alive  with  monstrous  hippo- 
potami. Oswell  opened  fi.re  at  once,  and,  maddened  with 
fright,  they  snorted,  plunged,  dived,  struggled  and  fought 

VOL.    I.  9 


I30  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

in  the  vain  effort  to  escape  from  the  attack.  Sometimes, 
as  a  bullet  struck  home,  a  vast  head  and  shoulders  reared 
themselves  out  of  the  water,  and  the  clash  of  the  immense 
jaws  echoed  from  bank  to  bank. 

This  went  on  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  but  not  one 
beast  appeared  to  die.  A  big  bull  made  straight  for  the 
part  of  the  bank  on  which  Oswell  was  standing.  Letting 
it  get  its  forelegs  clear,  he  fired  within  three  feet  of  its 
head,  blowing  it  back  into  the  stream.  'Well,  I'll  swear 
I  hit  that  fellow!'  shouted  he  to  Murray.  'Oh,  I  can 
swear  I've  hit  all  I've  fired  at !'  was  the  reply.  The 
evening  was  closing  in,  and  just  before  the  hunters  started 
for  the  waggons  one  hippopotamus  floated  up  dead.  They 
looked  at  each  other,  and  did  not  say  much  of  their 
shooting.  Next  morning,  however,  fourteen  huge  bodies 
lay  on  the  surface  of  the  creek.  They  had  evidently  sunk 
to  the  bottom  when  killed,  and  risen  when  the  gases  dis- 
tended the  stomach. 

For  a  month  or  five  weeks  longer  they  shot  down  the 
Limpopo,  and  then,  as  the  season  was  drawing  on,  and 
from  December  to  April  it  was  impossible  to  keep  the 
horses  alive,  the  horse  sickness,  endemic  through  the  old 
hunting-grounds,  killing  every  one,  the  travellers  turned 
southward  and  westward  towards  Mabotse,  and  '  shaking 
the  dear  old  Doctor  and  Mrs.  Livingstone  by  the  hand,' 
made  their  way  to  the  Cape,  which  they  reached  in 
December. 

Murray  returned  to  England,  and  Oswell  busied  him- 
self in  refitting  for  the  following  year. 


9—2 


r     T^  NEW  YORK 
PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


CHAPTER  V. 

AFRICA. 

1 846-1 847.      AGE   28-29. 

SECOND   EXPEDITION   (WITH  CAPTAIN  FRANK  VARDON). 

EXPLORATION   OF  COURSE  OF  LIMPOPO,    AND 

DISCOVERY  OF  RIVER  MOKOLWE. 

Gunpowder  permit — Six  weeks'  sport  on  Marique  River — An 
elephant -hunt  of  twenty -three  hours  —  Captain  Frank 
Vardon,  '  the  most  perfect  fellow-traveller  ' — Enormous 
herds  of  buffaloes  and  elephants — '  That  must  be  a  lie ' — 
A  liberal  proposal — Tsetse  fly ;  post-mortem  appearance  of 
victims  —  Rhinostev  Oswellii  —  White  rhinoceros  tosses 
Oswell  and  his  horse  —  A  gallant  vengeance  —  Oswell 
tossed  by  a  keitloa — Return  to  India. 

The  experience  gained  in  the  preceding  season  made 
the  laying  in  of  fresh  supplies  an  easy  task.  When  it  was 
accomplished  he  bought  half  a  dozen  horses  to  fill  up  gaps, 
and  halting  at  Graham's  Town,  applied  for  and  was 
granted  a  gunpowder  permit. 

'  March  12,  1846. 

'  Permission  is  hereby  granted  to  William  Cotton  Oswell, 
Esquire,  to  purchase  and  convey  across  the  Land  Boun- 
daries of  the  Colony,  for  his  own  private  use,  One  Hun- 
dred and  Fifteen  Pounds  of  Gunpowder.  This  Gentleman 
will  proceed  on  his  journey  with  two  wagons  and  six 
Musquets. 

*  By  Command  of  His  Honour, 

'The  Lieut.-Governor.' 


134 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


One  hundred  and  fifteen  pounds  of  powder  for  one  gun 
and  a  seven  months'  expedition  would  seem  an  enormous 
allowance,  but  the  event  proved  he  had  by  no  means  over- 
estimated his  requirements. 

By  the  middle  of  April  he  was  on  his  way  to  the  Mari- 
que  River,  a  small  tributary  of  the  Limpopo,  intending  to 

shoot  down  it  to  its  junction, 
and  then  explore  the  main 
stream  as  far  as  he  was  able. 
The  number  of  animals  was 
really  incredible.  He  was  out 
every  day  and  all  day,  and 
sometimes  all  night.  '  On  one 
occasion,'  he  notes,  'John  and 
I  had  a  very  long  ride  after  a 
herd  of  elephants  we  never 
came  up  with ;  we  started  at 
8  a.m.  and  only  reached  the 
wagons  again  next  day  at 
7  a.m.'  Five  or  six  weeks 
morning  before  he  left  camp, 
letter  fastened  in  a  cleft  stick 
Vardon,  of  the  25th  Madras 
Native  Infantry,  who,  hearing  that  an  Englishman  was 
within  a  short  distance,  proposed  to  join  parties  and 
shoot  together. 


CAPTAIN      FRANK     VARDON. 
'  The  most  perfect  fellow-traveller.' 

passed  thus,  when    one 
a   Kafir  came  in  with  a 
from    a    Captain    Frank 


*  I  had  been  one  whole  season  and  part  of  another 
at  the  work  and  I  thought  that  a  newcomer,  of  whom 
I  knew  nothing,  might  not  be  the  most  desirable  of 
companions ;  he  would  very  likely  wish  to  stop  when  I 
wished  to  go  on,  and  vice  versa,  and  I  sent  an  answer  in 
this  spirit,  but,  thanks  be  praised,  I  repented  my  churhsh- 
ness  in  an  hour  after  the  departure  of  the  messenger,  and 
wrote  a  second  letter  begging  Captain  Vardon  to  ignore 
the  first,  pardon  my  selfishness,  and  join  me  as  soon  as 
possible  ;  and  to  the  end  of  my  life  I  shall  rejoice  that  I 


AFRICA:  SECOND  EXPEDITION  135 

did  so,  for  in  three  days  the  finest  fellow  and  best  comrade 
a  man  ever  had  made  his  appearance.  ...  I  will  not 
attempt  to  describe  him.  Let  every  man  picture  for 
himself  the  most  perfect  fellow-traveller  he  can  imagine, 
and  that's  Frank;  brightest,  bravest  -  hearted  of  men, 
with  the  most  unselfish  of  dispositions,  totally  ignorant 
of  jealousy,  the  light  of  the  camp  fires,  the  most  trust- 
worthy of  mates ;  a  better  sportsman  and  a  better  shot 
than  myself  at  all  kinds  of  game  save  elephants,  and 
only  a  little  behindhand  in  that,  because  he  was  a  heavy 
weight  and  poorly  armed  with  a  single-barrelled  rifle. 
Yet  he  was  always  rejoicing  in  my  success  and  making 
light  of  his  own  disappointments — and  this  man  I  had 
all  but  missed !' 

The  buffaloes  were  in  immense  herds  along  the 
Marique  : 

*  One  bright  moonlight  night  the  report  of  the  gun 
awakened  the  whole  forest  to  the  left  of  us  into  life,  un- 
heard, unseen,  before.  I  rode  up  to  the  edge.  It  was  a 
mass  of  struggling  buffaloes  jammed  together.  The  out- 
side ones  startled  by  the  shot,  and  having  got  sight  of  our 
party,  bore  back  upon  the  main  body ;  hoof  and  horn, 
horn  and  hoof  rattled  one  against  another,  and  for  some 
distance  I  rode  parallel  with  a  heaving  stream  of  wild  life. 
I  cannot  pretend  with  any  accuracy  to  guess  their  num- 
bers, but  there  must  have  been  thousands,  for  they  were 
packed  together,  like  the  pictures  of  American  bison, 
and  any  number  of  braves  might  have  crossed  over  their 
backs.' 

Elephants,  too,  were  in  such  large  herds  that  he 
halted  a  week  or  ten  days  and  shot  all  day  long,  and 
had  the  ivory  as  it  was  brought  in  piled  up  under  his 
wagons. 

One    morning    there    appeared    two   wagons    on    the 


136  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

opposite  side  of  the  river.  Seven  or  eight  of  their 
occupants,  Boers,  crossed  the  stream  and  had  a 
friendly  chat,  coffee  and  tobacco,  with  the  travellers : 
when  all  of  a  sudden  one  of  them  caught  sight  of 
the  ivory  under  the  wagon.  They  all  got  up  to  look 
at  it. 

'  "  Where  did  it  come  from  ?  Who  shot  it  ?"  *'  I 
did,"  replied  I,  "  and  during  the  last  few  days." 
"Alone?"  "Yes,  alone."  "That  must  be  a  lie — a 
poor  lean  fellow  like  you  could  never  have  shot  such 
a  splendid  lot  of  tusks."  They  appealed  to  my  drivers 
for  the  truth,  and  when  we  returned  to  our  coffee- 
pot made  the  astonishingly  liberal  proposal  that  I  should 
join  and  shoot  with  them  and  take  half  the  ivory  killed  by 
the  whole  party.  They  were  in  earnest,  and  I  had  the 
greatest  difficulty  in  getting  off,  but  I  have  reason  to 
believe  it  was  through  the  account  of  these  Boers  and  of 
another  party  I  met  at  Livingstone's  station,  that  I  re- 
ceived a  most  courteous  message  from  Pretorius,  who  was 
then  their  chief,  that  he  hoped  I  would  visit  Mahalisberg, 
and  that  I  should  find  a  hearty  welcome  through  Boer- 
land. 

'  They  had  a  wholesome  dread  of  traders  who  for 
ivory  might  supply  the  natives  with  muskets  and 
ammunition,  and  thus  render  them  recalcitrant,  and 
they  had  found  out  I  didn't  and  wouldn't  trade ;  indeed 
the  story  among  them  was  that  on  a  native  bringing 
a  tusk  to  my  wagon  for  sale,  I  threatened  to  shoot  him 
then  and  there  !' 

Whilst  they  were  on  the  low  Siloquana  Hills,  the  travel- 
lers first  made  acquaintance  with  the  tsetse  {Glossina 
morsitans)  : 

'  A  dusky-grey,  long-winged,  vicious-looking  fly,  barred 
on  the   back  with   stricB,  about  the   size  of  the  fly  you 


AFRICA  :  SECOND  EXPEDITION 


137 


so  often  see  on  dogs  in  summer.  Small  as  he  is,  two 
to  three  will  kill  your  largest  ox  or  your  strongest  horse ; 
for  the  poison  introduced  by  the  proboscis  is  zymotic. 
The  victims  sicken  in  a  few  days  ;  the  sub-lingual  glands 
and  muscles  thicken,  the  eyes  weep,  the  hollow  above 
them  fills  up,  a  defluxion  runs  from  the  nostrils,  the  coat 
stares,  emaciation  is  rapid  and  extreme,  and  in  a  period 
varying  from  a  fortnight  to  three  months,  death  inevitably 
ensues.  We  examined  about  twenty  of  our  beasts  after 
death,  and  the  appearances  were  similar  in  all — flesh 
flaccid  and  offensive,  fat,  if  any  remained,  like  yellow 
water,  membrane  between  skin  and  flesh  suifused  with 
lymph,  and  puffy,  stomach  and  intestines  healthy, 
heart  and  liver,  and  occasionally  lungs  diseased.  The 
heart  in  particular  attracted  our  attention.  It  was  no 
longer  afirm  muscle, 

but  flabby,  like  flesh  t — X- 

steeped  in  water, 
blood  gelatinous 
and  scanty  —  the 
largest  ox  not  yield- 
ing more  than  18 
pints.  Moreover, 
it  has  entirely  lost 
its  colouring  pro- 
perty, the  hands 
when  plunged  into 


TSETSE    FLY    (HIGHLY    MAGNIFIED). 
A  B,  actual  length  of  body;  c  d,  span  of  wings. 

the    ass    and    the    goat,    and     the 


it  coming  out  with- 
out stain.  All  do- 
mesticated animals 
are  affected  save 
calf  as  long  as  it  sucks.  Man  and  all  the  wild  animals 
are  proof  against  the  poison.  The  fly  infests  particular 
spots,  from  which  it  never  shifts.  The  natives  herd  their 
cattle  at  a  distance  from  its  haunts,  and  should  they 
in  changing  their  posts  be  obliged  to  pass  through  tracts 
of  country  in  which  it  exists,  they  choose  a  moonlight 


138 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


winter's  night,  as  during  the  nights  of  the  cold  season 
it  does  not  bite.' 

It  was  on  the  banks  of  the  Mokolwe,  an  important  tribu- 
tary of  the  Limpopo  discovered  by  Oswell  and  Vardon, 
that  the  former  first  met  with  and  killed  the  quehaaba : 

'This  beast  resembles  the  white  rhinoceros  (Rh.  simus), 
except  in  the  formation  of  the  horn,  which  is  longer, 
much  straighter,  and  curved,  though  but 
slightly,  in  exactly  the  contrary  direc- 
tion. The  two  specimens  which  we 
brought  from  the  interior  are  abraded 
at    the     points     on     the     lower    sides. 


V. 


"^i 


HORN    OF    QUEBAABA. 
Length,  43J  inches. 

probably  from  coming  in  contact  with  the  ground  whilst 
the  animal  is  feeding.  When  running  at  speed  also,  or 
when  alarmed,  it  carries  the  head  very  low,  as  do  likewise 
the  other  species,  and  the  horn,  then  standing  nearly 
straight  out  from  the  nose  with  a  trifling  curve  down- 
wards, may  occasionally  strike  or  rub  against  the  in- 
equalities of  the  ground. 

'  From  the  circumstance  of  the  qiiehaaha  being  found  in 
the  same  neighbourhood,  and  from  its  general  resemblance 
to  the  white  rhinoceros,  we  at  first  supposed  the  pecu- 
liarity of  the  horn  to  be  merely  a  malformation,  but  the 
fact  of  five  having  been  seen,  two  of  which  were  shot ; 
of  the  Bechuana  who  inhabit  the  country  in  which  the 
specimens  were  obtained,  knowing  the  animal  well  under 
a  distinct  name,  and  describing  it  as  frequently  to  be  met 
with,  though  by  no  means  so  common  as  the  other  kinds ; 
and  of  its  being  unknown  to  the  south  of  the  Tropic 


AFRICA  :  SECOND  EXPEDITION  141 

though  the  common  white  rhinoceros  is  there  found  in 
abundance,  caused  us  to  change  our  opinion  and  to  con- 
sider it  as  certainly  a  distinct  species.'* 

During  this  expedition  Oswell  had  two  terrible  ex- 
periences with  rhinoceros.  That  neither  proved  fatal  is 
little  less  than  miraculous. 

He  had  one  pre-eminently  good  horse,  the  very  pick  of 
all  he  ever  had  in  Africa — some  hundred  and  eight — fast 
and  most  sweet-tempered,  and  so 
fearless  that  it  would  without 
whip,  spur,  or  any  urging  carry 
him  right  up  to  a  lion  and  stand 


HORN    OF    THE    RHINOCEROS    THAT 
KILLED    STAEL. 
Length,  32  inches. 


perfectly  motionless  within  a  few  feet  of  the  brute  whilst 
its  master  fired.  Returning  to  camp  one  evening  on  Stael, 
he  fired  both  barrels  at  a  white  rhinoceros.  Instead  of 
dropping  or  bolting,  it  began  to  walk  towards  the  smoke. 
He  turned  his  horse  only  to  find  a  thick  bush  was  against 
its  chest.  Before  he  could  free  it  the  rhinoceros  drove 
its  horn  in  under  the  flank,  throwing  horse  and  rider  into 
the  air  with  such  terrific  force  that  the  point  of  the  horn 
pierced  the  saddle.  As  they  fell  the  stirrup  iron  scalped  his 
head  for  four  inches  in  length  and  breadth.  He  scrambled 
to  his  knees,  and  saw  the  horn  actually  within  the  bend  of 
his  leg.  With  the  energy  of  self-preservation  he  sprang  to 
his  feet,  but  tottering  a  step  or  two  he  tripped  and  came  to 
the  ground.     The  rhinoceros  passed  within  a  foot  without 

*  He  reverted,  however,  latterly  to  his  original  view. 


142  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

hurting  him.  As  he  rose  for  the  second  time  his  after- 
rider  came  up  with  another  gun.  Half  pulHng  him  from 
his  horse,  Oswell  mounted  it  and  galloped  after  and  caught 
the  rhinoceros.  Wringing  the  blood  from  his  eyes,  and 
keeping  back  the  piece  of  scalp  with  his  left  hand,  he 
held  the  gun  to  his  shoulder  with  his  right,  and  shot  the 
brute  dead.  Resting  for  a  few  moments  under  a  bush  he 
remounted,  and  rode  back  to  Stael. 

'  That  very  morning  as  I  left  the  wagons  I  had  talked 
to  him  affectionately,  as  a  man  can  talk  to  a  good  horse, 
telling  him  how  when  the  hunting  was  over  I  would  make 
him  fat  and  happy ;  and  I  had  played  with  him  and  he 
with  me.  It  was  with  a  very  sore  heart  that  I  put  a  ball 
through  his  head,  took  the  saddle  from  his  back  and 
started  wagonwards,  walking  half  the  distance,  ten  miles, 
and  making  my  after-rider  do  likewise.' 

It  would  be  impossible  to  conceive  anything  more 
characteristic  of  the  man  than  these  last  few  words. 
Shaken  in  body  by  his  terrible  fall,  in  mind  by  the  loss 
of  his  favourite  horse,  severely  wounded  and  bleeding,  he 
yet,  as  a  matter  of  course,  shares  the  ten-mile  tramp 
home  equally  with  his  black  servant.  When  they  reached 
the  wagons  and  explained  what  had  happened,  the  Kafirs 
to  a  man  burst  into  tears. 

On  the  return  journey  to  the  Cape  he  met  with  the 
most  serious  accident  of  his  life.  Stalking  two  rhino- 
ceroses of  the  keitloa  variety,  he  was  lying  flat  and  waiting 
for  a  side  chance.  They  came  within  twenty  yards 
of  him,  but  head  on,  in  which  position  they  cannot  be 
killed  except  at  very  close  quarters,  for  the  horns  com- 
pletely guard  the  brain,  which  is  small  and  hes  very  low  in 
the  head.  Constant  success  and  impunity  in  shooting  these 
beasts  induced  a  somewhat  rash  confidence,  and  he  lay 
still  until  he  saw  that  if  the  nearer  of  the  two  forged  her 
own  length  once  more  ahead  her  foot  would  be  on  him. 
He  would  have  shot  her  up  the   nostril,  but  a  charging 


AFRICA:  SECOND  EXPEDITION  145 

rhinoceros  always  makes  straight  for  the  smoke  of  the 
gun,  and  he  knew  that  if  number  one  fell,  number  two, 
who  was  within  four  or  five  yards  of  her,  would  be  over 
him  before  the  smoke  cleared.  Hoping  that  his  sudden 
appearance  from  the  ground  would  startle  her  and  so  give 
him  a  chance  of  escape,  he  sprang  up  and  dashed  alongside 
of  her  to  get  her  in  the  rear,  his  hand  being  on  her  as  he 
passed.  She  immediately  gave  chase.  He  was  a  very  fast 
runner,  but  in  thirty  yards  she  was  at  his  heels.  A  quick 
turn  saved  him  for  the  moment  ;  the  race  was  over  in  the 
next.  As  the  horned  snout  came  lapping  round  his  thigh 
he  rested  the  gun  on  the  long  head,  and,  still  running, 
fired  both  barrels  ;  but  with  the  smoke  he  was  sailing 
through  the  air,  and  it  was  not  until  three  hours  later 
that  he  recovered  consciousness,  to  find  a  deep  gash  in 
his  thigh,  eight  inches  long,  down  to  the  bone  in  all  its 
length.  The  limb  stiffened,  and,  unable  to  get  into  the 
wagon,  he  made  his  bed  for  nearly  four  weeks  under  a 
bush,  the  rip  healing  rapidly,  covered  with  a  rag  kept  con- 
stantly wet. 

As  soon  as  he  was  sufficiently  recovered  he  hurried 
down  to  the  Cape,  where  an  official  announcement  awaited 
him  that  in  the  event  of  his  failing  to  return  to  India  by 
a  certain  date,  then  two  months  past,  his  appointment 
would  be  cancelled.  He  accordingly  secured  a  passage 
in  the  next  ship. 


HORN    OF    SPECIES    OF    RHINOCEROS 

THAT    TOSSED    OSWELL. 

Length,  233  inches. 

VOL.    I.  10 


CHAPTER   VI. 

INDIA      AND       ENGLAND. 

1847-1848.       AGE    29-30. 

Oswell's  plans  for  the  future  —  Livingstone  writes  from 
Kuruman  ;  the  course  of  the  Limpopo ;  twenty  years 
old,  twenty  children — Oswell  appointed  superintendent 
of  Government  catch  of  elephants ;  the  coopmn ;  taming 
and  training  ;  a  servant  over  one  hundred  years  old,  with 
sixty  years'  good  character  ;  a  sound  whipping  ;  a  knock- 
down blow  ;  a  dash  for  liberty  ;  the  elephant  in  war  and 
pageants  ;  as  a  nurse  ;  as  a  wood-cutter's  assistant ;  mode 
of  capture  in  pitfalls — Adventure  with  black  bears — Peter 
and  his  little  ways — England  re-visited — Death  of  Mrs. 
Oswell — Decision  to  return  to  Africa. 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Brother. 

•  Madras, 

*  April  12,  1847. 

'  .  .  .  I  am  going  up  to  the  Neilgherry  Hills  to 
linger  out  the  four  or  five  months  I  have  to  stay  in  this 
world,  and  then  D.V.  intend  proceeding  to  Ceylon  and 
taking  my  passage  home  from  Point  de  Galle.  My 
appointment  was,  as  I  have  already  told  you,  lost  by  my 
overstaying  my  leave  at  the  Cape.  Since  my  return,  how- 
ever, I  have  been  offered  the  refusal  of  two  very  excellent 
ones,  and  could  I  have  made  up  my  mind  to  remain  in 
India  after  my  furlough  became  due,  should  have  accepted 
one  of  them.     But  I  have  always  led  you  to  expect  me 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  147 

home  at  the  end  of  ten  years,  and  I  am  very  anxious  to  see 
you  all  myself!  So  if  I  live  I  shall  be  with  you  D.V. 
about  the  end  of  the  year.  .  .  .  Now  that  my  return  to 
England  draws  so  nigh,  I  begin  to  fear  that  I  have,  as 
usual,  been  overcolouring  the  picture.  It  is  hard  for  an 
alien  to  think  that  others  do  not  remember  him  so  well 
as  he  remembers  them  ;  but  this,  of  course,  must  be  the 
case.  The  world,  so  far  as  Europe  is  concerned,  has  been 
standing  still  with  me.  I  have  had  nothing  else  to  think 
of  but  those  it  contains  dear  to  me.  The  one  often  thinks 
of  the  many,  the  many  but  seldom  of  the  one  ...  If 
there  is  anything  in  this  country  I  can  bring  home  that 
you  think  might  be  likely  to  be  acceptable  to  anyone,  pray 
let  me  know ;  you  have  yet  time.  You  must  tell  my 
dearest  Mother  not  to  fancy  that  she  will  see  her  son  such 
as  he  left  her — a  fine,  rosy-faced,  plump,  cherubimish- 
looking  boy,  but  rather  ancient,  exceedingly  thin,  and 
frightfully  green  and  yellow.  I  tell  you  this  in  sober 
earnest  for  fear  lest  she  should  be  alarmed  at  such  an 
appearance  as  the  glass  tells  me  I  have.' 

As  a  result  of  their  meetings  in  Africa  a  warm  friend- 
ship had  sprung  up  between  him  and  Dr.  Livingstone. 
Each  recognised,  and  very  cordially  appreciated,  the  fine 
qualities  of  the  other. 

The  Doctor  wrote  the  first  letter  of  a  correspondence 
which  continued  with  singular  fidelity  and  increasing  affec- 
tion until  his  death  : 

*  KURUMAN,    1847. 

'  .  .  .  Having  come  out  here  on  a  visit  and  find- 
ing a  direct  opportunity  to  Colesberg,  I  hasten  to  give 
you  a  word  of  salutation.  We  heard  from  Captain  Vardon 
that  you  had  actually  sailed  for  India,  so  we  must  now 
think  of  you  as  again  in  that  sultry  clime.  ...  It  will 
afford  us  all  much  pleasure  to  receive  a  note  from  you.  A 
short  time  after  you  left,  Mrs.  L.  and  I  went  a  long  way 
to  the  Eastward.     We  were  at  least  twelve  days  due  East 

10 — 2 


148  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

of  Chonuane  when  we  reached  our  farthest  point  in  that 
direction.  There  we  were  astonished  to  find  the  Limpopo 
had  come  round  and  was  just  three  days  beyond  us 
when  we  looked  to  the  sunrising.  When  at  the 
Bamapela  we  asked  where  the  Basileka  hved,  and  the 
natives  pointed  N.W.  to  them  and  said  they  Hved  three 
days  (native  traveUing)  from  them  ;  the  Bamapela  are  a 
little  to  the  South  of  East  from  Chonuane.  I  have  felt 
exceedingly  anxious  to  inform  you  of  this,  lest  you  should 
give  your  name  to  any  map-maker  with  the  mistake  you 
seem  to  have  made,  and  therefore  begin  the  subject  at 
once.  There  are  a  great  many  magnetic  hills  a  little  to 
the  N.E.  of  our  station,  and  these  extend  a  long  way 
Eastward ;  they  are  composed  of  black  oxide  of  iron,  and 
are  so  powerful  that  pieces  stick  to  the  wagon  wheels 
in  travelling.  I  have  thought  your  compasses  must  have 
been  affected  by  this  cause,  and  led  you  astray.  If  the 
Basileka  are  not  more  than  sixty  or  seventy  miles  N.W. 
of  the  Bamapela  you  have  not  made  more  Northing  than 
that  from  the  latitude  of  Chonuane,  24°  30'.  The  Lim- 
popo, it  is  certain,  comes  round  to  our  Latitude,  for  it  was 
directly  East  of  us  at  the  Bamapela.  It  there  receives  a 
large  river  called  the  Lepinole,  then  another,  the  name  of 
which  I  forget,  and  then  makes  a  sweep  away  back  to 
the  N.E.  There  is  still  room  for  discovery;  the  boors 
declare  it  goes  into  the  sea  only  a  little  way  North  of 
Delagoa  Bay  ;  the  natives  say  it  becomes  an  immense 
stream — "  the  Mother  of  all  Rivers  " — after  receiving  these 
two  rivers.  We  found  quite  a  cluster  of  tribes  situated 
in  the  bend  made  by  the  Limpopo.  We  visited  three, 
and  saw  the  habitat  of  four  more.  One  of  these  is  that 
which  has  nearly  been  destroyed  by  the  boors.  The 
country  is  much  more  densely  populated  the  farther  East 
one  goes,  than  in  the  centre  of  the  country.  They  received 
us  like  the  boors,  with  far  more  fear  than  love.  The 
Chief  of  the  Bamapela  has  forty-eight  wives  and  twenty 
children,  the  latter  in  feature  all  very  much  resembling 
himself;  he  is  not  more  than  twenty  years  of  age 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  149 

Gumming  has  shot  but  few  elephants  this  year.  He  had 
a  bad  attack  of  illness  beyond  the  Bamangwato  which 
prevented  him  doing  much  execution.  He  intends  to  follow 
your  "  spoor "  henceforth.  We  found  that  the  wagon 
you  so  kindly  allowed  us  to  have,  had  arrived  at  Kuruman 
before  us.  It  had  got  a  turn  over  which  damaged  the  tent ; 
but  that  will  soon  be  mended.  .  .  .  We  were  right  glad 
to  get  it  as  it  is.  We  needed  a  wagon,  and  but  for  your 
very  great  kindness,  should  have  been  obliged  to  wait  and 
save  for  it,  at  least  three  years  more.  Please  accept  of  our 
united  and  hearty  thanks  for  the  favour.  I  hope  to  be 
able  to  do  something  towards  my  duty  by  next  year.  We 
have  now  resolved  to  move  from  Ghonuane,  and  if  there 
is  no  better  place  to  be  found,  our  residence  will  be  at 
Kolobeng.  We  go  on  much  as  usual  at  Ghonuane.  Here, 
all  are  pretty  well  except  little  Robert,  who  is  teething. 
Mr.  Ashton  and  I  went  to  Lekatlong,  were  summoned 
back  in  a  few  days,  and  though  we  rode  incessantly,  came 
only  in  time  to  look  at  his  little  boy's  grave.  Allow  me, 
my  dear  sir,  to  recommend  the  Atonement  of  Ghrist  as 
the  only  ground  of  peace  and  happiness  in  death.  To  His 
favour  and  friendship  I  commit  you.  .  .  .  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Moffat,  Mr.  Hamilton,  Mrs.  L.  and  self  unite  in  very  kind 
regards  to  you.  Should  you  happen  to  meet  with  Gaptain 
Steele,  you  will  oblige  me  by  presenting  my  very  kind 
remembrance.  I  shall  write  again  as  soon  as  we  have  any 
news  ;  probably  in  six  months  from  this,  when  the  bags 
for  the  season  have  been  made  up.  We  hear  nothing  about 
the  Gaffre  War.  Murra}^,  we  hear  from  a  son  of  Mr. 
Moffat,  reached  London  safe  and  sound.  Do  remember 
and  write  soon.     This  is  my  last  request.' 

On  Oswell's  return  to  India,  the  Madras  Journal  of 
Literature  and  Science  applied  to  him  for  some  account  of 
his  wanderings.  He  accordingly  sent  them  a  sketch-map 
of  the  country  traversed,  which  appeared  in  their  next 
issue,  and  some  explanatory  notes,  which  they  embodied 
in  the  following:  article  : 


ISO  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

*  We  have  much  pleasure  in  presenting  our  readers  with 
the  accompanying  sketch  map,  for  which  we  are  indebted 
to  Mr.  Oswell,  of  the  Civil  Service,  showing  the  extreme 
points  to  which  he  penetrated  in  the  course  of  two  ex- 
peditions into  the  interior  of  South  Africa,  made  in  search 
of  game  in  1845  and  1846. 

*  On  the  first  occason,  with  Mr.  Murray,  he  reached  the 
Ba-Kaa  mountains,  and  returned  by  the  valley  of  the 
Limpopo.  This  line  nearly  coincides  with  the  track  of 
Mr.  W.  Hume  in  1830. 

*  In  his  next  journey  he  was  joined  by  Captain  Vardon, 
and  they  together  explored  the  course  of  the  Limpopo  to 
a  greater  extent  than  had  been  done  by  any  previous 
travellers.  Mr.  Oswell  was  at  first  led  to  suppose  that 
the  stream  pursued  a  more  northerly  course  (indicated  by 
the  red  line  on  the  map),  and  he  had  placed  their  turning 
point  in  the  Lingwapa  mountains  somewhere  between 
20°  and  21°  S.  Lat.  But  subsequent  consideration,  and 
the  result  of  a  communication  from  Mr.  Livingstone, 
the  enterprising  Scotch  Missionary  in  the  Bechuana 
country,  induced  him  to  exhibit  the  direction  of  the  river 
as  it  now  stands. 

'  "  This  sketch,"  observes  Mr.  Oswell,  "  is  not  supposed 
to  be  strictly  accurate.  We  laid  down  the  course  of  the 
river  Limpopo  as  correctly  as  we  could  from  the  tops  of 
the  hills,  etc.,  with  a  compass,  but  having  no  other  in- 
strument, we  are  aware  that  many  errors  may  have  crept 
in,  and  only  hope  that  others  more  carefully  provided, 
may  some  day  or  other  give  the  world  a  better.  The 
present  will  serve  to  show  the  wanderer  where  water  may 
be  obtained  at  a  distance  from  the  river,  and  information 
such  as  this  even,  is  not  to  be  despised  in  Africa. 

'  "  The  lines  dotted  and  plain  mark  the  track  of  the 
wagons,  but  the  country  was  well  quartered  on  horseback 
for  forty  or  fifty  miles  on  either  side.  The  Limpopo  is 
supposed  to  reach  the  sea  at,  or  somewhere  a  little  to  the 
North  of,  Delagoa  Bay."  ' 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  151 

*  The  Bekoa  and  Bumungwatow  tribes  whom  Mr,  Oswell 
visited  in  his  first  excursion  mentioned  three  other  people 
as  hving  to  the  north  of  them,  viz.  the  Makalakka, 
Mancupani  and  Mashuna.  They  were  also  familiar  with 
the  existence  of  the  great  Lake,  and  had  frequently  visited 
it.  They  described  it  as  lying  in  a  W.N.W.  direction 
from  their  location,  at  a  distance  of  twelve  or  fourteen 
days'  journey  for  a  man  on  foot  (which  would  be  about 
three  hundred  miles)  or  a  month  with  the  wagon.' 

Although,  in  view  of  his  having  decided  to  bid  a  final 
farewell  to  India,  Oswell  had  declined  a  permanent 
appointment,  he  was  unwilling  to  remain  idle  for  the 
six  or  seven  months  that  must  elapse  before  his  return  to 
England,  and  on  this  becoming  known  he  was  at  once 
offered  temporary  employment  as  superintendent  of  the 
Government  cooptim,  a  post  for  which  inclination  and 
qualification  alike  fitted  him.  Forty-five  years  later  he 
wrote  the  following  admirable  and  spirited  account  of  this 
period  of  his  life  : 

*  Orders  were  out  for  a  Government  elephant  hunt  to  fill 
up  gaps  in  the  commissariat  and  pagoda  studs;  messengers 
sped  to  the  outlying  villages  under  the  Anay-malay*  range ; 
shikarrisf  and  IrulursJ  were  convened  for  khabr,  and  after 
due  consideration  it  was  decided  to  draw  a  large  tract  of 
country  at  the  foot  of  these  hills.  Preparations  began  at 
once ;  east  and  west,  north  and  south,  the  keen-eyed 
scouts  were  sent  forth  to  view  the  feeding  grounds,  and 
see  by  what  arrangement  the  herds  might  be  massed, 
and  in  what  direction  driven.  A  valley  between  hills,  or 
ground  with  low  ridges  rising  on  either  side,  is,  if  possible, 
selected,  and  in  a  narrow  part  a  cooptcm  is  constructed. 

*  Anglice,  Elephant  Hills. 
t   Native  hunters. 

I  An  Indian  tribe  who  live  entirely  in  the  jungles,  and  in 
knowledge  of  wild  animals  and  their  ways  equal  the  African 
Bushmen. 


152  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

'  And  what  is  a  coopum  ?  Not  far  from  water  a  spot,  a 
hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  diameter,  is 
pitched  upon,  and  nearly  enclosed  by  a  trench  nine  feet 
wide  and  the  same  deep,  in  the  form  of  a  horseshoe 
coming  in  rather  suddenly  at  the  heels,  the  space  between 
which  is  left  solid  and  uncut ;  from  the  shoe-ends  diverging 
palisades  of  large  trees  felled  by  the  jungle  folk  and 
dragged  into  position  by  tame  elephants,  stretch  away  a 
mile  or  so  into  the  forest — very  strong  close  to  the  coopum, 
and  getting  less  and  less  compact  as  the  distance  increases. 
On  the  day  of  the  hunt,  outside  the  heavy  palisades  where 
they  run  into  the  coopiun  ditch,  for  a  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  men  lie  in  ambush  with  spears,  and  at  intervals,  as 
the  fence  broadens  out  and  weakens,  others  in  groups  of 
four  or  five  make  fires  and  watch  beside  them  ;  and  beyond, 
as  the  hedge  dies  away  altogether,  fires,  still  in  diverging 
lines,  with  their  attendant  watchmen,  stretch  on  for  four 
or  five  miles  farther  into  the  dense  jungle,  till  the  last  on 
one  side  is  six  miles  asunder  from  its  opposite.  Four  miles 
deeper  in  the  wood  three  or  four  thousand  beaters  have 
taken  their  posts  on  a  curve,  with  a  chord,  say,  of  ten  miles. 

'  The  morning  of  the  hunt  has  dawned,  and  with  the 
earliest  streak  of  light  the  beaters  advance  very  slowly 
and  cautiously,  gradually  taking  closer  order,  and  con- 
tracting their  wings  as  they  near  the  line  of  fires.  We  at 
the  coopum  in  the  meantime  have  been  walking  the  tame 
elephants  backwards  and  forwards  over  the  entrance  to 
the  trap  to  scent  it,  and  thus  if  possible  give  confidence  to 
the  expected  oncomers. 

'  But  the  sun  grows  hot,  and  as  yet  not  a  sound  has 
reached  us.  We  leave  the  rock  immediately  over  the 
enclosure  where  we  have  been  sitting  since  5  a.m. — it  is 
II  now — and  make  for  the  shade. 

'  Suddenly  a  sharp-eared  native  lifts  his  head — there  is  a 
murmur  amongst  those  close  around  us — they  have  caught 
a  distant  shout,  or  shot.     But  all  is  still  again. 

'Another   half- hour,  and   even  our   duller   senses   are 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  153 

conscious  of  an  occasional  intermittent  wave  of  sound ; 
"  nearer  it  comes  and  yet  more  near,"  until  at  length  an 
unbroken  hum  surges  towards  us. 

*  You  have  an  undefinable  vision  of  what  is  going  on  ; 
three  or  four  shots  in  rapid  succession,  a  storm-wave  of 
yells  tell  you  that  the  herd  has  made  an  attempt  to  break 
through  the  line  of  fires ;  the  shouting  grows  longer  and 
louder,  and  the  anxious  trumpeting  of  the  elephants 
mingles  with  it.  You  feel  they  are  between  the  first 
palisades,  and  growing  every  instant  more  suspicious,  are 
seeking  for  a  weak  spot  along  the  lines  ;  but  you  know  they 
are  met  at  every  point.  Shot  after  shot  with  blank  car- 
tridge is  fired  at  them  ;  as  they  swerve,  maroons  and 
rockets  are  showered  behind  them.  At  last  they  are 
within  the  heavy  fence  of  felled  trees,  and  only  a  short 
two  hundred  yards  from  the  trenched  enclosure. 

'They  are  fully  aware  of  their  danger  now,  but  their 
enemies  are  too  thick  behind  them.  The  incessant  ex- 
plosion of  the  fireworks,  the  shots  from  the  guns,  and 
the  shouts  from  the  thousand  human  throats  intimidate 
them  as  they  again  and  again  turn  and  threaten  to  break 
back.  Nothing  is  left  save  the  chance  of  a  faulty  place 
in  the  palisade.  Two  or  three,  more  determined  than  the 
rest,  have  partly  thrust  aside  the  large  forest  trees,  and  a 
way  of  escape  seems  opening  fast. 

'  A  lithe,  dark  form  glides  along  the  outside  of  the  barrier, 
reaches  the  half-made  breach,  and  lying  sheltered  by  the 
logs,  passes  his  spears  through  the  chinks,  and  sharply 
pricks  the  legs  of  the  elephants.  Startled,  they  move  on, 
and  pele-mele  in  dark  mass  reach  the  jaws  of  the  trap. 
A  tusker  is  leading.  As  he  comes  to  the  narrow,  uncut 
way  he  stops  irresolute,  and  for  a  moment  refuses  to 
move.  But  it  is  too  hot  for  him,  and  taking  a  female 
between  his  tusks  he  pushes  her  to  the  front,  and  holding 
her  securely,  and  prodding  her  if  she  attempts  to  turn 
right  or  left,  he  makes  her  try  every  yard  before  he  puts 
his  foot  down. 


154  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

'  The  leaders  have  passed  the  Rubicon  ;  the  others  follow 
as  sheep  through  a  gateway.  As  the  last  clears  the  portal, 
twenty  men,  who  have  been  lying  concealed  in  a  trench, 
spring  up,  each  with  a  large  truss  of  cJiohim  straw,  place 
it  a  little  inside  the  coopnm,  across  the  inner  neck  of  the 
bridge  along  which  the  elephants  have  just  gone,  and  in 
a  moment  it  is  blazing  furiously ;  the  flare  is  kept  up  by 
fuel,  whilst  two  hundred  men  in  gangs  of  twenty  at  a  time 
toil  their  hardest  to  complete  the  encircling  ditch. 

'  It  is  terrible  work  in  the  full  heat  of  the  sun  and  the 
scorching  fire,  and  they  can  stand  it  only  for  a  two  or 
three  minutes'  spell ;  but  fresh  and  fresh  they  keep  at  it, 
until  in  a  very  short  time  the  frightened  herd,  which  has 
retired  to  the  further  side,  is  ringed  in. 

'  For  the  last  hour  the  excitement  has  been  stirring 
enough — the  sound-drawn  pictures  of  the  distance,  the 
actual  sight  as  the  great  beasts  break  into  view,  the  mad- 
dening roar  of  humanity  strung  to  its  highest  tension. 

*  The  watching  motionless  by  the  waving  grass  of  the 
jheel  till  the  "  sounder  "  breaks,  and  law  is  given,  is  trying, 
and  I  have  known  men  break  down  under  the  strain  ; 
but  it  is  short — a  matter  of  eagerness  for  the  coming 
tussle  with  the  spear — and  is  over  with  the  first  stride  of 
the  race  as  you  settle  down  to  the  boar ;  but  in  this  other 
there  is  passive  anxiety,  long  drawn  out,  a  fear  that  the 
labour  of  weeks  may  all  be  in  vain,  the  feeling  that  you 
must  wait,  wait,  wait,  and  be  content  to  breathe  again 
only  when  the  fierce  blaze  tells  you  that  the  quarry  is 
enclosed  and  the  hunt  up, 

*  The  captives  stand  cowed  and  quietly  miserable  for  a 
space,  then  the}'  begin  to  poke  round  for  a  way  of  egress  ; 
but  the  ring  is  continuous,  and  they  are  not  much  of 
jumpers,  so  they   give  it    up.*      They  still  move  about 

*  In  the  hunt  I  am  trying  to  describe  a  tusker  deliberately 
pushed  a  female  into  the  trench,  and  essayed  to  walk  out  over 
her  back  ;  we  stopped  him  by  firing  charges  of  powder  in  his 
face,  and  killed,  cut  up,  and  removed  piecemeal  his  improvised 
bridge. 


^     T  c  M  D  K    A  N  D 
'  R 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  157 

mournfully,  gather  into  small  dejected  groups,  and  hang 
their  heads  sadly ;  and  so  it  goes  on  for  three  days. 
Water  is  once  or  twice  run  in  to  them  through  wooden 
troughs,  but  they  have  no  food  save  that  growing  in  the 
coopmn,  and  that  they  won't  touch  ;  they  are  thoroughly 
down-hearted,  weak  in  body  and  spirit.  The  headmen 
now  decide  that  they  may  be  individually  secured ;  faggots 
are  thrown  into  the  trench,  and  a  temporary  bridge  made, 
over  which  four  or  five  tame  elephants  with  mahouts  up 
are  sent  in.  As  they  advance,  the  wild  herd  retreats  to 
the  farther  side,  and  stands  in  an  untidy  clump.  Three 
of  the  tame  elephants  are  moved  up,  and  presently 
receive  orders  to  cut  off  any  one  of  the  herd  that  may 
happen  to  be  somewhat  detached  from  the  main  body  ; 
and,  one  on  either  side,  one  at  right  angles  across  its 
rump,  they  shut  up  their  wild  sister  or  brother  in  a 
triangle  or  Greek  A.  It  is  wonderful  to  see  how  these 
intelligent,  educated  animals  hold  their  prisoner  in  check, 
preventing  its  using  its  trunk  with  their  trunks,  and  all 
lateral,  forward  or  retrograde  motion  by  the  weight  and 
strength  of  their  bodies. 

*  When  the  struggle  is  over,  one  of  the  mahouts  slips  off 
the  neck  of  his  mount,  with  a  coil  of  ground  rattan  in  his 
hand,  and  crawling  under  him,  passes  the  cane  in  a  figure 
of  8  round  the  hind-legs  of  the  captive,  the  tame  elephants 
meanwhile  stopping  all  the  attempted  kicks  and  side 
thrusts  of  the  wild  one  with  the  skill  of  practised  boxers. 
It  takes  time,  but  at  last  the  rattan  is  securely  tied,  the 
mahout  remounts,  and  the  prisoner  is  freed.  He  tries  a 
step  forward,  finds  his  two  legs  one ;  strains  to  snap  the 
ligature,  the  tough  siliceous-coated  withy  cuts  through 
the  skin  and  flesh,  and  the  fettered  victim  moves  no 
more. 

'  Throughout  the  operation  one  or  two  tame  elephants 
have  been  patrolling  between  the  wild  herd  and  the  one 
being  operated  on,  and  if  a  friend,  moved  by  excitement  or 
the  cries  of  the  triangled  comrade,  seems  inclined  to  make 


158  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

a  diversion  in  his  favour,  and  singles  himself  out,  one  ot 
the  patrols  bears  down  upon  him,  and  striking  him  on  the 
side,  generally  grasses  him,  and  always  knocks  his  wind 
out  for  the  time,  leaving  him  incapable,  even  if  inclined,  of 
sacrificing  comfort  to  friendship.  The  tying  business  is 
a  long  one,  especially  at  first,  whilst  all  the  captives  are 
comparatively  strong  and  fresh  ;  five  or  six  in  the  course 
of  each  of  the  first  days  is  the  complement,  but  as  they 
weary  and  lose  all  spirit,  the  work  is  less  tedious,  and  there 
are  not  so  many  to  keep  at  bay. 

*  At  last  they  are  all  rattanned,  and  dragged  out  bodily 
over  the  faggot-bridge  by  the  tame  elephants,  to  sites  pre- 
pared for  them  in  the  neighbouring  forest ;  they  are  made 
fast  by  a  chain  and  rope  round  each  leg  to  four  trees — a 
leg  to  a  tree — and  there  they  are  kept  for  some  days.  At 
first  they  are  sulky,  and  will  not  eat,  and  they  strain, 
till  the  fastenings  cut  deeply  into  the  flesh,  but  they  very 
seldom  break  away  altogether.  I  should  have  mentioned 
that  the  rattan  is  removed  as  soon  as  they  are  securely 
picketed. 

'  When  they  are  considered  meek  enough,  a  number 
of  tame  elephants  are  requisitioned  to  bring  them  into 
the  breaking  station,  which  is  sometimes  close  by, 
sometimes,  as  in  the  instance  I  am  writing  of,  fifteen 
miles  off.  Each  wild  one  is  placed  between  two  broken 
ones  and  attached  to  its  guards  by  a  thick  rope  noose 
or  collar,  to  which  two  other  ropes  are  made  fast — 
one  for  each  attendant  hatti ;  if  the  captive  allows  him- 
self to  be  run  in  quietly,  well ;  if  not,  he  is  pulled  along 
willy  nilly. 

'  On  reaching  the  training  station  they  are  again  fastened 
as  before,  and  their  education  begins ;  each  elephant  is 
given  a  man,  or  man  an  elephant,  which  you  like,  and 
he  is  to  do  his  best.  Great  emulation  is  the  result,  every- 
one coaxing  his  pet  his  own  way,  with  the  view  of  taming 
him. 

'  At  first  they  are  very  troublesome,  trying  to  get  hold  of 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND 


159 


their  grooms  with  their  trunks,  or  give  them  a  sly  poke  with 
their  legs — but  tied  as  they  are,  their  reach  is  small,  and 
after  a  few  days,  a  bamboo  burnt  and  scraped  to  a  sharp 
point  brings  them  to  their  senses.  Each  man  carries 
one  of  these  weapons,  and  if  his  elephant  shows  any 
inclination  to  use  trunk  or  leg,  it  is  sharply  pricked, 
and  in  a  very  short  time  the  sensible  beast  coils  his 
proboscis,  and  jams  his  legs  close  together,  whenever  his 
keeper  approaches.  Then  the  hide  is  scratched  and  tickled 
with  the  bough  of  a  tree,  which  keeps  the  flies  off,  and 
amuses  the  tender-skinned  beast — for  an  elephant's  upper 


'  that's    a    bad    fellow,    LACHME WHIP    HIM. 


skin  is  very  thin  and  sensitive — and  all  the  time  he  is  sung 
to  in  interminable  dronings,  to  accustom  him  to  the 
human  voice,  and  calm  his  nervousness.  Occasionally  he 
behaves  himself  unseemly,  is  violent,  sets  his  keeper  at 
defiance  ;  and  it  becomes  necessary  to  punish  him  severely. 
An  elephant  schoolmistress  is  called  in — ours  was  a  dear 
old  female  called  "  Lachme."  She  had  been  sixty  years 
in  Government  employ,  and  was  registered  as  full- 
grown  when  taken — so  she  was  over  a  hundred,  for  an 
elephant  is  not  grown  up  before  fifty — but  she  was  still 
young,  and  very  much  up  to  her  work.     "  That's  a  bad 


i6o  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

fellow,  Lachme — whip  him."  Raising  her  trunk,  she  tears 
down  a  huge  bough  from  one  of  the  trees,  and  holding  it 
by  the  small  end,  mercilessly  belabours  the  recalcitrant, 
until  he  hegs  for  mercy,  if  ever  animal  did.  This  is  generally 
sufficient ;  if  not,  and  the  contumacy  continue,  he  is  tied, 
as  I  have  said,  to  separate  trees  by  a  chain  and  a  rope  to 
each  foot,  and,  not  able  to  move,  Lachme  takes  advantage 
of  his  position,  and  backing  at  right  angles  to  his  side, 
coils  her  trunk,  lowers  her  head,  and  comes  full  butt  against 
his  ribs,  knocking  him.  over.  One  such  lesson  is  usually 
quite  enough,  and  henceforth  the  attendant,  with  the  threat 
of  Lachme  in  the  background,  is  able  to  manage  his 
pupil. 

'  A  few  weeks  have  passed,  quiet  reigns  in  the  school, 
and  some  of  the  more  advanced  scholars  have  ropes  passed 
over  their  backs,  one  well  behind,  and  one  forward,  con- 
nected with  one  round  the  neck  to  prevent  their  slipping 
backwards  and  forwards,  a  kind  of  double  surcingle.  It 
is  the  first  day  of  mounting.  If  the  tree  under  which  the 
elephant  is  tied  lends  itself  to  it,  the  would-be  rider  crawls 
along  a  bough  until  he  is  over  the  animal's  back,  and  then 
gently  lowers  himself,  clutching  fast  hold  of  the  ropt, 
another  man  meanwhile  preventing  the  haiti  from  using 
its  trunk  by  threatening  it  with  the  pointed  bamboo.  P 
is  a  strange  sight  to  witness  the  abject  terror  of  the 
mounted  monsters.  I  have  seen  them,  with  their  well- 
known  note  of  fear,  sink  till  their  bellies  nearly  touched 
the  ground,  as  in  dread  of  the  weight  breaking  their 
back,  and  then,  shivering  and  staggering,  raise  them- 
selves with  a  mighty  shake,  spreadeagling  their  riders 
into  the  air,  till  they  look  like  performers  on  the  trapeze. 
But  they  hold  on  to  the  ropes,  and  by  degrees  regain  their 
seats.  If  the  bough  of  the  tree  is  not  available  the 
mount  is  effected  by  a  short  ladder,  or  by  climbing  up 
the  ropes. 

'  Thus  day  by  day,  and  little  by  little,  education 
goes   on,    until    at   the    end    of    two    or   three    months, 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  i6i 

the  mahouts  will  ride  their  coursers  about  the  canton- 
ment, and  within  the  latter  period  I  have  known  them 
brought  to  our  bungalows,  on  a  begging  "  lay,"  asking 
for  plantains  with  a  chuckle,  and  thanking  you  in  the 
same  dialect. 

'  It  does  not  do  to  take  them  into  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  forest  in  which  they  were  caught,  for  a  long  while,  for 
their  memories  are  tenacious.  A  very  well-tamed  young 
tusker  was  bought  from  the  overplus  of  this  hunt  by 
a  friend  of  mine  ;  some  months  after  his  purchase,  his 
owner,  who  was  a  great  sportsman,  got  leave  of  absence, 
and  dived  into  the  jungles.  I  put  one  of  my  tents  upon 
the  young  one,  and  for  a  time  nothing  could  be  better 
than  his  behaviour.  One  morning  he  was  rather  fidgety 
at  starting,  and  after  marching  a  mile  or  two,  up  went  his 
trunk,  and  with  a  shrill  trumpet  he  bolted  into  the  dense 
wood,  tent  and  all — he  had  come  to  a  tract  of  country  he 
recognised,  and  stop  him  no  one  could.  His  tracks  were 
taken  up  that  day  and  the  next,  but  every  time  he  got 
sight  of  his  pursuers,  down  came  this  three  days  before 
perfectly  quiet  beast  most  viciously  to  the  charge.  It 
would  have  been  easy  enough  to  shoot  him,  but  then 
there  was  the  hope  of  recapture.  Some  of  the  party  got 
a  glimpse  of  him  the  third  day,  and  reported  that  the 
tent  had  slipped  down  under  his  belly  and  was  torn  into 
ribbons.  His  life  was  given  him,  for  he  was  a  fine  young 
fellow,  the  tent  was  ruined,  and  his  tusks  were  nothing 
to  speak  of.  He  had  not  been  caught  more  than  five 
months,  but  was  the  most  docile  and  gentle  of  the  whole 
catch. 

'  The  desire  of  freedom  generally  dies  out  after  a  year 
or  two,  and  the  giant  becomes  man's  very  reliable  friend 
and  ally,  and  what  work  he  does  for  him  !  He  draws  and 
pushes  his  heavy  guns,  carries  his  mountain  batteries,  his 
tents  and  baggage  ;  he  is  the  chief  figure  in  tamashas  and 
processions  ;  and  ever  since  Ganesa  lost  his  head  and  his 
mother  stuck  on  an  elephant's  in  a  hurry,  or  even  before 

VOL.    I.  II 


i62  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

such  latter-day  myths,  he  has  been  the  hfe  and  soul  of  all 
the  stories  of  India. 

'  Look  what  a  deft  nurse  he  makes  to  his  mahout's 
children.  This  gentleman  is  from  home,  probably  drink- 
ing somewhere,  and  his  wife  has  gone  to  the  bazaar ;  but 
the  children  having  once  been  made  over  to  the  elephant, 
who  is  picketed  hard  by,  once  placed  within  sweep  of  his 
trunk,  he  allows  of  no  wanderings.  That  baby  is  crawling 
away  too  fast,  he  is  caught  by  the  heel  and  very  gently 
drawn  within  range ;  two  little  dots,  propping  themselves 


AN    EXCELLENT,    HARD-WORKING    WOODCUTTER  S 
ASSISTANT. 

up  against  his  fore-leg,  play  at  "peep -bo"  in  perfect 
safety  ;  he  smooths  down  their  naked,  tiny,  oily  bodies  in 
the  gentlest  way  with  his  trunk,  and  would  rather  die 
than  raise  his  ponderous  foot ;  he  understands  what  is 
expected  of  him,  and  the  nature  of  his  trust,  and  is 
proud  of  it. 

'  And  if  good  as  a  tender  nurse,  he  is  also  an  excellent, 
hard-working  woodcutter's  assistant.  The  teak -fellers 
are  off  to  the  hills  in  the  morning,  and  some  of  the 
elephants,  who  are  divided  into  three  classes — the  hill-men, 
the  trolly-7;z£j«,   and  the  stackers — accompany  them.     A 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  163 

tree  is  dropped,  lopped  and  cut  into  suitable  lengths  if 
necessary,  noosed  round  with  a  rope  and  the  end  made 
over  to  a  hatti,  with  orders  to  drag  it  down  the  hill  in 
the  direction  of  a  stacking-yard  below.  Pinning  the  rope 
over  his  tusks  with  his  trunk,  he  walks  steadily  down  the 
side  of  the  hill ;  the  ground  grows  steeper,  and  the  log 
shows  signs  of  coming  too  fast,  and  outpacing  him.  He 
casts  off  the  rope,  and  watching  as  the  timber  bumps  from 
terrace  to  terrace,  deliberately  follows,  takes  up  the  traction 
line,  and  recommences  his  descent,  but  always  with  a  wary 
eye.  When  he  reaches  the  bottom  his  work  is  done,  and 
he  trunks  over  his  charge  to  other  elephants,  whose  special 
work  it  is  to  take  it  to  the  stackyard.  This,  assisted  by 
men,  they  do  on  low  trollies,  or  rollers.  At  the  yard  it  is 
consigned  to  the  stackers  (elephants  also),  who  lay  it 
straight  by  itself  or  parallel  with  another  block  on  the 
ground.  For  the  second  course  an  inclined  plane  is  con- 
structed, up  which,  with  the  greatest  care,  the  elephants 
push  a  second  piece  ;  three  or  four  stand  ready,  and  at  the 
word  of  command  "  Push,"  put  their  heads  against  the  log 
and  shove  in  unison,  moving  it  very  slowly,  with  pauses, 
and  preventing  it  slipping  back  by  pressing  their  heads, 
legs,  and  points  of  their  shoulders  against  it.  Now  it 
rests  on  the  under  balk,  but  it  is  out  of  line  a  little  :  "  Put 
it  straight,"  "  Push,"  it  is  even. 

'  In  India,  elephants  are  occasionally  taken  in  pitfalls 
made  on  purpose  very  large  ;  but  having  caught  your 
elephant,  what  are  you  going  to  do  with  him,  how  get 
him  out  ?  Again  you  resort  for  aid  to  his  tame  brethren 
and  his  own  instinct ;  green  faggots  are  liberally  supplied 
him  one  by  one,  and  he  immediately  places  them  under 
his  feet,  and  stamps  them  down,  until  he  thus  raises 
himself  within  a  manageable  distance  from  the  surface. 
Ropes  and  chains  are  then  passed  round  his  legs,  and, 
with  plenty  of  slack,  temporarily  secured  by  double  turns 
round  trees,  beside  each  of  which  a  man  stands  with  the 
end  of  a  rope  in  his  hands.     When  quite  close  to  the  top 

II — 2 


i64  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

of  the  pit,  the  tame  elephants  lug  him  out  and  crowd 
him  up,  the  men  at  the  trees  shortening  the  attachments 
before,  behind,  on  one  side  or  the  other,  as  the  movements 
of  the  captive  give  them  opportunity,  till  at  last  he  is 
securely  fastened  by  the  right  length  of  fetter  to  the 
green  posts,  and  then  his  education  is  undertaken  after 
the  manner  of  the  coopum  curriculum. 

'  In  his  wild  state  the  elephant  does  not,  I  think,  show 
any  superior  sagacity ;  he  hardly  needs  it,  for,  monarch 
of  all  he  surveys,  with  a  well-stocked  vegetable  garden, 
the  necessity  for  self- protection  and  the  imperative 
demands  of  hunger  do  not  stimulate  his  instincts.  But 
in  servitude  he  is  the  most  teachable  and  receptive  of  all 
animals,  and  very  wise  and  thoughtful.  .  .  .' 

{The  MS.  breaks  off  at  this  point  unfinished.) 

In  common  with  the  preceding  pages  on  the  Indian 
elephant,  the  following  stories  were  developed  by  William 
Oswell  from  notes  written  in  1893  for  a  contemplated 
book  of  general  sporting  reminiscences.  They  are 
merely  rough,  uncorrected  sketches,  but  as  they  possess  a 
certain  interest,  and  refer  to  events  which  occurred  at 
this  period,  it  has  been  decided  to  include  them  exactly 
as  they  stand  : 

'  I  had  dug  a  well  for  them — the  hills  above  their  village 
were  looked  upon  as  my  preserve,  and  strictly  watched. 
If  a  bear  harboured  among  them  I  knew  it  next  morning ; 
if  a  wandering  bison  showed  himself  in  the  jungle  at 
their  foot,  one  of  their  best  runners  started  for  my  head- 
quarters at  once. 

'  How  often  have  I  since  regretted  that  I  did  not  under- 
stand sooner  the  nature  of  the  people  I  lived  amongst. 
Be  a  great  man  if  you  like,  keep  up  a  show  of  state — it  is 
well — but  show  an  interest  in  them  that  they  can  appre- 
ciate, do  kind  acts,  not  only  in  your  own  way,  but  also  in 
accordance  with  the  traditions  of  their  race — you'll  live 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  165 

with  them,  not  apart,  and  be  the  happier,  and  you  and 
they  the  better — Ah,  si  la  jetmesse  savait !  ah,  si  la  vieillcsse 
pouvait ! 

*  Bears  had  been  run  to  ground  and  the  tidings  had 
reached  me.  A  tent  was  immediately  sent  off  and  pitched 
under  the  hills,  in  the  spot  indicated  by  the  villagers,  who 
were  quite  as  much  delighted  to  do  me  a  pleasure  in  my 
line,  as  I  had  been  to  dig  their  well.  And  this  is  as  it 
should  be — accept  their  returns  frankly,  and  as  they  are 
human  beings  it  pleases  them. 

'  I  slept  at  my  tent,  and  at  daybreak,  after  a  cup  of 
coffee,  climbed  the  range  with  a  couple  of  guides,  and 
found  men  who  had  been  on  the  watch  the  best  part  of 
the  night,  and  earthed  two  or  three  bears  as  they  returned 
from  their  feeding-grounds  in  the  very  early  morning.  They 
pointed  to  the  mouth  of  the  rocky  den  which,  they  said, 
they  had  seen  them  enter — they  had  heard  snoring  just 
before  I  came  and  were  quite  sure  they  had  not  left  their 
cache.  I  listened,  but  could  not  hear  anything.  The  spot 
was  a  pile  of  loose  rocks  which  looked  as  though  they  had 
tumbled  from  a  higher  level  and  adjusted  themselves  any- 
how— chinks  everywhere  throughout,  and  two  or  three 
gaping  holes  into  which  the  small  Indian  bear  might  well 
creep. 

'  After  making  a  thorough  examination  of  the  surround- 
ings, and  settling  which  way  the  occupants  were  most 
likely  to  bolt,  I  directed  the  men  to  pass  a  rocket  or  two 
between  the  crevices  over  the  spot  where  they  thought  they 
had  heard  the  hard  breathing.  Whish,  whish,  hang  !  three 
times  over  without  result.  The  smoke  came  eddying 
from  the  lower  recesses,  showing  that  the  fireworks  had 
penetrated.  Another  and  another  salvo  in  different  direc- 
tions, but  the  sounds  of  the  discharge  died  away  without 
eliciting  a  grunt.  '  There  are  no  bears  there.'  '  Yes,  there 
are,'  said  the  men.  '  Go  in  and  look,'  said  I.  '  No,  my 
lord,  we  would  rather  not.' 

Ashamed   of  having   asked  them   to  do   a  thing  they 


i66  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

evidently  thought  perilous,  I  gave  my  gun  into  my  bearer's 
hands,  and  selecting  the  largest  of  the  openings  in  the 
stony  heap,  crawled  in  three  or  four  yards  on  hands  and 
knees.  The  light  came  through  the  rifts,  but  I  could  see 
nothing  of  any  bear. 

'  Whilst  peering  about,  six  feet  in  advance  of  me,  very 
suddenly,  the  daylight  was  shut  out  as  it  were  with  a  large 
muff,  and  after  a  moment's  hesitation,  with  an  angry  growl, 
down  came  Bruin  upon  his  joint  tenant.  Notice  to  quit  was 
accepted  without  murmur  at  sight,  and  I  got  a  good  start 
and  made  the  very  best  of  my  way  backwards  to  the  mouth 
of  the  den,  and  gained  the  open  air  a  couple  of  yards  in 
advance  of  my  pursuer.  As  I  sprang  up  my  gun-bearer 
put  the  Purdey  into  my  hands,  and  in  an  instant  I  was 
straddling  over  the  hole  from  which  I  had  just  emerged, 
one  foot  on  one  stone  and  one  on  the  other,  and  the  bear 
passing  between  my  outstretched  legs.  But  he  never  cleared 
the  entrance,  for  half  in,  half  out,  he  dropped  with  a  ball 
through  his  head.  A  second  bear  was  behind  him  but  he 
could  not  pass  his  dead  companion,  and  turning,  made  for 
the  exit  at  the  other  end  of  the  run,  but  was  stopped  and 
shot. 

*  I  have  known  the  black  bear  come  back  to  the  charge 
from  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  eighty  yards,  and  you 
may  roll  him  over  shot  after  shot,  but  you  will  not  prevent 
him  trying  to  carry  out  his  programme,  be  it  for  a  charge 
or  for  escape  to  his  den.  Whatever  other  bears  may  do  I 
know  not,  but  our  friend  does  not  as  a  rule  walk  up  and 
embrace  you  with  a  hug.  If  you  come  suddenly  upon  him 
round  a  bush  or  rock  he  will  sit  up  like  a  dog,  and  might, 
if  near  enough,  hug  you,  but  generally  he  makes  a  run  on 
all  fours  at  your  legs. 

*  He  is  not  perhaps  a  very  formidable  antagonist, 
but  he  is  a  plucky  little  fellow  and  very  tough,  and 
gives  an  active,  quick-footed  man  good  sport.  For  a 
certain  distance  you  can  race  with  him  and  cut  him  off, 
and  your  interest  in  the  sport  is  thus  much  increased. 


PASSING    BETWEEN    MY    OUTSTRETCHED    LEGS    ...    HE    DROPPED 
WITH   A    BALL   THROUGH    HIS    HEAD. 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  169 

He  is  not  by  you  and  out  of  reach  in  a  second.  You 
cannot  race  with  him  down  hill,  however — here  he  beats 
you  hollow — for  Brer  Bear  rolls  himself  over  the  ledges  of 
rock  as  easily  and  harmlessly  as  a  football. 

'He  is  readily  tamed.  Whilst  I  was  pitched  under  the 
spurs  of  the  Nilghirris  a  private  note  written  in  English,  to 
air  his  knowledge  of  that  language,  came  to  me  from  one  of 
my  native  heads  of  pohce,  to  inform  me  that  he  "  sent  into 
my  Honor's  presence  two  small  bars  which  he  had  appre- 
hended on  the  pass."  Our  sub-collector  Murray  took  one 
and  "hobbed  "  him  up,  and  an  amusing  fellow  he  turned 
out,  devoted  to  his  master  and  miserable  out  of  his  sight. 
He  always  climbed  up  into  the  buggy,  when  Murray  went 
for  his  evening  drive,  sat  on  the  vacant  seat  and  sucked 
his  thumb,  or  perhaps  you  would  say  his  toe,  and  the  inside 
of  his  foot. 

'  Sometimes  when  there  was  a  stoppage  on  the  road,  he 
would  get  out,  tempted  by  an  anthill  or  some  such  deli- 
cacy, and  we  occasionally  left  him  behind  on  purpose,  and 
drove  on. 

'  Poor  Peter,  after  an  attempt  to  follow  us,  would  sit 
down  and  whine  piteously  as  a  lost  child  ;  and  when  we 
stole  back  again  we  invariably  found  him  on  his  haunches 
on  the  most  open  part  of  the  ground,  with  his  nose  in  air, 
in  deep  dejection,  crying  like  a  baby.  His  joy  at  our  re- 
appearance was  touching ;  he  cuddled  his  master,  sucked 
his  own  paw  in  a  vulgar,  smacking  way,  rolled  over  and 
over  on  the  ground,  and  by  every  little  affectionate  action 
begged  us  never  to  leave  him  again,  an  orphan  in  the 
wide,  wide  world. 

'  As  he  grew  up  he  required  correction  sometimes,  and 
took  punishment  meekly  enough  at  the  hands  of  his  master, 
but  resented  outside  interference.  He  was  latterly  chained, 
for  he  took  to  killing  the  chickens  for  fun,  and  one  day 
upon  my  remonstrating  with  him  on  his  enormities,  though 
I  did  him  no  violence,  made  a  rush  at  me,  and  broke  loose. 
I  had  just  come  in  from  shooting,  and  had  drawn  the  shot 


lyo  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

from  the  gun  before  squibbing  it  off.  Hoping  to  stop 
him  I  fired  the  powder  into  his  face,  but  it  did  not  check 
him,  and  so  I  ran,  and  Peter  after  me,  up  the  steps  of  the 
bungalow.  As  I  reached  the  top,  I  saw  Murray's  switch, 
caught  it  up,  and  turned  on  Peter,  who,  undaunted  by  the 
gun,  fled  ignominiously  at  the  mere  sight  of  his  rod.  He 
grew  very  troublesome  afterwards.  He  was  allowed  to 
come  in  to  second  course,  for  puddings  and  tarts  were 
very  much  in  his  line ;  but  if  not  immediately  attended  to 
he  would  take  hold  of  the  cloth  and  pull  it,  with  all  on  it, 
to  the  ground,  and  then  revel  in  the  sweets,  until  Murray 
bit  his  ear,  when  he  would  bolt  away  howling. 

'  At  last  we  had  to  shoot  him,  for  we  could  not  cure  him 
of  destroying  hen-roosts  out  of  simple  mischief — he  never 
ate  the  occupants.' 

When  Oswell  reached  home  in  November  he  found  his 
uncle  hale  and  hearty  as  ever,  but  he  was  deeply  con- 
cerned at  the  change  in  his  mother.  Though  only  fifty- 
eight,  she  was  a  very  old  woman.  Her  hair  was  snow- 
white,  she  had  wasted  to  a  mere  shadow,  her  hands  and 
face  were  transparent ;  she  was  so  weak  that  the  slightest 
exertion  exhausted  her,  and  she  felt  the  cold  acutely. 
There  was  nothing  actually  amiss  with  her,  the  doctors 
assured  the  devoted,  anxious  son,  but  she  was  worn  out — 
with  grief,  with  nursing,  with  pain.  He  took  her  to  Tor- 
quay, hoping  against  hope  that  the  soft,  warm  air  might 
revive  her.  Day  by  day  the  gulf  of  their  eleven  years  of 
separation  seemed  to  narrow  as  she  listened  with  fond 
pride  to  his  stories  and  adventures,  and  filled  in  the  gaps 
of  the  home  letters.  And  when  she  was  too  tired  to  talk 
he  read  aloud  to  her  for  hours  at  a  stretch  '  most  beauti- 
fully, more  beautifully  than  any  one  I  ever  heard,'  as  she 
wrote  to  her  sister.  On  her  fifty-ninth  birthday,  January  7, 
1848,  the  exhaustion  became  critical,  and  on  the  morning 
of  the  8th  she  passed  away,  painlessly,  peacefully,  happily, 
thankfully,  in  the  arms  of  her  '  best-beloved  boy.' 


INDIA  AND  ENGLAND  171 

Her  death  was  a  black  cloud  on  his  home-coming  which 
visits  to  friends  and  relations  and  compliance  with  the 
insatiable  demands  of  society  did  little  to  dissipate.  His 
thoughts  therefore  naturally  reverted  to  Africa  for  the 
comfort  of  strong  distraction  which  England  failed  to 
afford. 

W.  Cotton  Oswcll  to  Dr.  Livingstone. 

'  London, 

'Sept.  26,  1848. 

'  .  .  .  I  received  your  long  letter  yesterday.  Many 
thanks  for  it;  it  has  cheered  my  heart  wonderfully.  D.V. 
I  propose  being  at  the  Cape  by  the  middle  of  December 
next.  .  .  .  My  chief  anxiety  is  to  give  you  to  under- 
stand for  certain,  that  with  God's  blessing  I  will  be  with 
you  towards  the  close  of  May,  1849,  and  earlier  if  the 
horse-sickness  will  allow  me.  ...  I  sail  on  the  25th 
prox.  Steele  will  not  accompany  me  ;  Murray  perhaps 
may.  ...  If  not  altogether  incompatible  with  your  views 
I  hope  to  find  you  at  Kolobeng  on  my  arrival.  I  will 
bring  all  books,  instruments,  etc.,  thought  requisite ; 
your  periodicals  shall  not  be  forgotten.  Kindest  re- 
membrances to  Mrs.  L.,  and  rnniela  thala  thala  to  Sechele. 
What  would  the  latter  take  by  way  of  a  present  ?' 


CHAPTER  VII. 

AFRICA. 

1848-1849.       AGE    30-31. 

THIRD   EXPEDITION  {WITH  LIVINGSTONE  AND  MURRAY).— 

PASSAGE  OF  KALAHARI  DESERT,  AND  DISCOVERY 

OF  RIVER  ZOUGA  AND  LAKE  NGAMI. 

Preparations  for  expedition— Prices  and  quantities  of  neces- 
saries— Mrs.  Moffat  not  forgotten — Graphic  description  of 
Natal — Steele  and  Vardon  write  their  '  God  speed  ' — Start 
made  from  Colesberg,  April  23,  1849  —  Livingstone's 
announcement  of  success  of  expedition  arrives  February  1 1 , 
1850 — Chagrin  of  Oswell's  friends  at  receiving  no  tidings 
from  him — He  writes  his  story  to  Benjamin  Cotton  and 
Vardon — Vardon's  generous  congratulations,  and  inter- 
vention at  the  Geographical  Society — Further  advance 
contemplated — Followers  hesitate^ — John  steps  into  gap 
— '  We  will  all  go  ' — Chief  hostile — Project  abandoned — 
Livingstone's  testimony  to  Oswell — Gigantic  horned  oxen. 

OswELL  reached  the  Cape  at  the  end  of  1848,  and  imme- 
diately began  to  prepare  for  the  journey  of  exploration  on 
which  he  had  set  his  heart,  by  engaging  servants,  and 
buying  wagons,  oxen,  horses,  stores,  provisions  and  imple- 
ments. On  February  10, 1849,  he  went  on  board  the  Phcenix, 
and  reached  Port  Elizabeth  on  the  morning  of  the  13th.  At 
2  p.m.  next  day  he  started  his  wagons  towards  Graham's 
Town,  where  he  had  determined  to  complete  his  purchases 
and  preparations,  and  'hiring  two  little  bits  of  rooms  in  a 
small  cottage  there,  I  at  once  set  seriously  to  work  in 
making  ready  for  a  start  Northwards.'     The  actual  pre- 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION 


173 


liminary  expenditure  would  seem  to  have  amounted  to 
about  ;r6oo.  Fortunately  the  rough  notes  have  been  pre- 
served, and  they  will  no  doubt  be  read  by  sportsmen  of 
to-day  with  particular  interest,  as  affording  a  comparison 
between  modern  requirements  and  prices  and  those  of 
sixty  years  ago : 


Articles,  Stores,  etc.,  required  for  a  Trip  of  Ten 
OR  Twelve  Months  with  Two  Wagons  and 
Seven  or  Eight  Servants. 


Coffee,  300  lbs. 

Salt,  100  lbs. 

Pepper,  10  lbs. 

Rice,  one  bag. 

Sago,  two  lbs. 

Spices,  etc.,  qu.  suff. 

Soap,  a  box. 

Tar,  two  flasks. 

Sugar,  400  lbs. 

Mustard,  three  bottles. 

Meal,  six  muids. 

Arrowroot,  two  lbs. 

Cheese. 

French  brandy,  two  cases. 

Wax  candles,  30  lbs. 

Snuff,  two  dozen  boxes. 

Tobacco,  five  rolls. 

One  large  baking  pot. 

One  smaller       ,, 

Three  saucepans. 

Six  tin  plates. 

Six  knives  and  forks. 

One  fryingpan. 

One  meat  knife. 

Four  tin  canisters  for  tea,etc. 


Two  kettles. 

Two  pots. 

Four  tin  dishes. 

Six  spoons. 

One  gridiron. 

One  meat  axe. 

Three  large  tin  dishes. 

One  ladle. 

Two  coffee  pots. 

One  teapot. 

Two  lanterns. 

One  flour  sieve. 

One  coffee  mill. 

Three  water  casks. 

Six  needles. 

Half  pound  wicks. 

Six  tinder  boxes. 

10  lbs.  brass  wire. 

One  candle  mould. 

Six  beakers. 

One  pair  of  bellows. 

One  pestle  and  mortar. 

Two  buckets. 

Two  lbs.  of  twine. 

One  dozen  knives. 

Two  dozen  boxes  lucifers. 


174 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


40  lbs.  of  beads. 

One  bale  of  canvas. 

12  riems. 

Three  saddles  and   bridles. 

Six  linchpins. 

One  spokeshave. 

Three  axes. 

Three  picks. 

One  chisel. 

One  punch. 

Two  spare  skenes. 

Two  gimlets. 

One  saw. 

Three  spades. 

Three  sickles. 

One  cold  chisel. 


One  hammer. 

Two  augers. 

Screws,  nails,  etc. 

Thermometer. 

Small  telescope. 

Sextant,  etc. 

Iron    spoon      for     running 

bullets. 
Coarse  powder,  60  lbs. 
Fine  powder,  20  lbs. 
Caps,  3,000. 
Lead,  150  lbs. 
Tin,  30  lbs. 
Flints,  60. 
Muskets,  6. 


Six  beakers. 

Six  spoons. 

12  common  shirts. 

Two  greatcoats  for  drivers 

A  small   tent. 


FOR    BOYS. 

Six  scotels. 

One  piece  of  moleskin. 

Six  jackets. 

12  blankets. 


PAID    BY    CHEQUE    ON    MESSRS.    RUTHERFORD. 

Mr.  James  for  wagon 

Mr.  James  for  oxen 

Krommehout  for  wagon  and  span 

Cockroft  for  wagon,  etc.  ... 

Wedderburn's  bill  for  stores,  etc. 

Ogilvie's 

Coffee  (3  bags)  ... 

Canvas 

Holder,  for  repairs  wagon,  etc. 

Godfrey, 

Wagon  box 


£    s. 

d. 

...  37  10 

0 

96  0 

0 

...  130  0 

0 

...  57  10 

0 

...  40  5 

0 

...  30  14 

0 

9  0 

0 

2  8 

0 

12  10 

0 

...    6  9 

0 

0  12 

0 

AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION 


175 


PAID    BY    CHEQUE    ON    MESSRS.    RUTHERFORD    {continued). 


Wagon  box 

2 

0 

0 

Twelve  riems 

0 

10 

0 

Mats    ... 

0 

9 

0 

Cartels 

2 

10 

0 

428 

7 

0 

HORSES. 

£ 

s. 

d. 

For  3  from  Mr.  James,  £2 
For  dun  pony,  Trollop 
For  brown  pony,  Boer 

.0,  ^10,  i 

^9 

39 
15 

0 

0 

0 

0 
0 
0 

For  dun  pony     . .. 

10 

0 

0 

Brown 

20 

0 

0 

Brown  chestnut 

15 

10 

0 

Bay  pony 
Chestnut 

15 
15 

0 
0 

0 
0 

'  Wildebeest '      ... 

9 

0 

0 

Mare    ... 

6 

0 

0 

'Harry' 
Chestnut 

or 

10 
9 

0 
0 

0 
0 

Principal     expenses     as     above   \ 

stores,  repairs,  etc. 
For  horses 

178 

428 
178 

10 

7 
10 

0 

0 
0 

606 

17 

0 

SERVA 

George  Fleming,  engaged 
1849,  advanced 

NTS. 

ist  Januc 

iry, 

£ 
15 

s. 

0 

d 
0 

Peat  Frer,  engaged  ist  January,  1849 

advanced 
Claas    David,    engaged   ist   January 

1849,  advanced    ... 
John  Thomas,  engaged  ist  February 

1849,  advanced  (15s.  a  month  to  be 

drawn  by  his  family) 


4  10     o 


o     o 


o     o 


176 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


SERVANTS  {continued). 

John   Scheimen,  engaged  26th   Feb-      £     s.    d. 

ruary,  1849,  advanced    ...  ...       300 

Ruyter,  engaged  26th  February,  1849, 

advanced  ...  ...  ...       o  10     o 

Hendrick,    engaged    26th    February, 

1849,  advanced  ...  ...       o  10     o 

Claas    Henry,    engaged    9th    March, 

1849,  advanced  ...  ...       100 

Christian,   engaged  7th  April,   1849, 

advanced  ...  ...  ...       100 

Willem    Kurt,    engaged     7th    April, 

1849,  advanced  ...  ...       o  17     6 

There  is  then  an  entry : 

'  FOR    MRS.    MOFFAT. 

'  Cauliflower,  peas,  broccoli,  cabbage,  spinach,  carrots, 
turnips,  Jerusalem  artichokes.' 

Contemplating  a  shooting  expedition  in  Natal  on  his 
return,  he  made  inquiries  in  various  directions  as  to  the 
nature  and  possibilities  of  the  country.  Among  the  re- 
plies he  received  one  which  gives  so  graphic  and  minute 
an  account  as  to  be  of  real  historical  value  : 


Octavius  Fordham  to  W.  Cotton  Oswell. 

'  PlETER    MaURITZBURG, 

'Feb.  28,  1849. 
'  Dear  Sir, 

'  As  you  were  so  flattering  as  to  ask  me  to  send 
you  my  opinion  of  Natal,  I  sit  down  to  do  so.  Owing  to 
the  bar  the  trade  is  carried  on  by  small  vessels  from 
100-150  tons.  Along  the  South  Coast  there  are  very 
strong  currents  running  westward,  often  four  knots  an 
hour.      From  this  and   the   frequency  of  South-easters, 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  177 

vessels  have  often  to  run  a  long  way  out  to  sea  and  make 
passages  of  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  days.  The  bay 
is  large,  but  the  greater  part  too  shallow  for  ships,  and 
the  entrance  is  narrow  and  inconvenient.  The  country 
looks  well  from  the  sea,  green  and  wooded,  gradually 
rising  in  ranges  of  hills,  and  mountains  far  inland  bound 
the  view.  D' Urban,  the  village  at  the  bay,  has  very  poor 
one-storeyed  houses  with  dirt  floors,  poor  accommodation 
at  the  inn  (Macdonald's)  and  is  a  most  untempting  place 
altogether.     The  roads   are   a   deep,  dry  sand,   and  the 


DURBAN    IN    1899. 
From  a  Photograph  by  G.  W.  Wilson  and  Co. 

population  very  small — some  hundred  and  fifty  whites 
besides  a  hundred  soldiers. 

'  The  world  at  large  should  believe  but  little  that  they 
hear  about  Natal  from  Natal,  as  it  is  the  fashion  with 
some  of  the  inhabitants  to  sit  about,  drink  brandy  and 
water,  and  extol  the  country  to  the  skies  for  its  produc- 
tiveness, while  they  are  importing  flour,  etc.,  for  the  con- 
sumption of  its  small  population  ;  and  because  one  man 
has  in  his  garden  ten  or  a  dozen  tobacco  plants  which 
(probably  by  high  cultivation  and  perpetual  attention) 
look  flourishing,  and  another  has  noticed  wild  indigo  and 
sugar-cane,  it  is  set  down  to  produce  all  these  things  and 
fifty  more  in  perfection  !      I  don't  say  it  is  not  so,  but 

VOL.  I.  12 


178  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

there  is  no  evidence  that  it  is.  In  the  immediate  proximity 
of  D' Urban  and  along  the  coast  there  is  wood  and  thick 
bush  loaded  with  creepers,  in  which  are  elephants,  tigers, 
wolves,  etc.,  and  there  are  many  bucks  in  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  alligators  and  sea-cows  are  also  to  be  seen,  but 
nobody  goes  after  these  wild  animals,  and  I  have  not  seen 
any  of  them.  About  twelve  days  (with  a  wagon)  North 
of  Mauritzburg,  there  are  said  to  be  immense  numbers  of 
every  kind.  From  D'Urban  to  Mauritzburg  is  about  sixty 
miles,  which  I  travelled  in  a  wagon.  When  three  or  four 
miles  from  the  village  there  is  one  extensive  view  of  green 
hills  and  vales  chequered  with  small  trees  and  bushes — fine 
picturesque  scenes  for  the  artist.  Many  of  the  hills  which 
we  as — and  des — cended,  although  not  so  bad,  force  me  to 
believe  in  the  truth  of  Cradock  Pass.  There  are  a  few 
Dutch  grazing  farms  on  the  road,  at  which  there  are  three 
or  four  hundred  head  of  cattle  kept ;  and  there  are  also  the 
Cotton  Company's  estates,  which  are  not,  I  think,  likely 
to  do  much  good  for  their  shareholders.  Mauritzburg 
is  a  pleasant  village  of  neat  houses  with  a  tolerably  com- 
fortable inn  (the  Crown)  at  5s.  per  day.  Nobody  here 
makes  more  than  a  subsistence  by  trade  or  agriculture  ; 
but  I  think  it  is  well  suited  for  a  person  with  ;£'i,ooo  or 
^2,000  to  bring  up  a  large  family  in  health  and  plenty ; 
for  beef  is  from  a  penny  to  twopence  a  lb.  and  of  very  fine 
quality,  and  likely  to  be  cheaper  rather  than  dearer,  as 
the  whole  country  from  one  end  to  the  other  is  one  exten- 
sive pasture  field  of  rich  grass.  I  do  not  think  it  is  any 
use  for  labourers  to  come  out  here,  as  the  large  number  of 
Caffres  will  prevent  the  farmers  from  giving  high  prices. 
Blacksmiths,  shoemakers,  etc.,  would  earn  6s.  to  7s.  per 
day.  The  temperature  is  hot  in  the  summer,  which  is  the 
showery  season,  and  cold  and  dry  in  winter.  The  climate 
is  reported  to  be,  and  I  think  is,  extremely  healthy.  The 
soil  is  very  good,  and  will  grow  three  crops  of  oats  in 
thirteen  months  ;  but  a  great  part  is  not  well  adapted  for 
wheat.     Indian  corn  and  beans  grow  well,  but  sheep  do 


AFRICA  :  THIRD  EXPEDITION  179 

not  thrive.  What  is  wanted  are  active,  industrious  farmers 
with  some  capital.  By  their  mediation  the  country  might 
support  many  miUions  of  Enghsh  labourers  much  better 
fed  and  in  better  health  and  greater  ease  and  enjoyment 
than  at  home ;  and  so  the  country  might  be  the  means  of 
adding  to  the  amount  of  happiness  in  the  world — a  con- 
summation devoutly  to  be  wished  !     The  Boers  trecked  to 


PIETERMARITZBURG    IN     1 599. 
From  a  Photograph  by  G.  W.  Wilson  and  Co. 

Natal*  and  each  took  possession  of  the  land  which  he 
fancied,  often  twenty  or  thirty  miles  from  each  other  ;  they 

*  The  fifty-six  years  that  have  elapsed  since  the  annexation 
of  Natal  have  been  productive  of  marvellous  changes  and 
developments.  Thus,  whereas  in  1843  the  imports  were 
/"i  1,712,  and  the  exports  £i,2'^8,  they  were  in  1897  £5S^3f5^9 
and  ;^i,62i,932  respectively.  Sugar,  coffee,  indigo,  arrowroot, 
ginger,  tobacco,  rice,  pepper,  pineapples,  tea  and  cereals  are 
extensively  cultivated  ;  horses,  cattle  and  sheep  are  reared  in 
immense  numbers  ;  while  the  last  returns  showed  an  output 
of  ^182,223  worth  of  gold  and  243,960  tons  of  coal.  Timber 
and  iron  exist  in  vast  quantities,  and  are  now  attracting  con- 
siderable attention.  The  population  of  the  colony  was  in  1896 
631,000  ;  of  Pietermaritzburg,  the  capital,  20,000. 

12 — 2 


i8o  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

protected  their  property  in  these  soHtary  regions  by  main 
force,  unhesitatingly  shooting  Caffre  or  Bechuana  thieves 
on  the  spot.  By  this  means  and  holding  a  sharp  hand 
over  the  Caffres  they  got  work  out  of  them,  grew  pro- 
duce, and  trade  flourished.  The  English  Government 
took  possession  of  the  country,  established  tribunals  to 
decide  between  man  and  man,  be  he  black  or  white,  and 
forbade  the  Boers  to  take  the  law  into  their  own  hands. 
The  Government  practically  takes  away  from  the  Boers 
the  protection  which  from  their  isolated  position  it  is  itself 
unable  to  extend  to  them.  The  Boers  again  treck  to  find 
other  regions  out  of  the  pale  of  British  interference  ;  trade 
decreases,  and  the  country  is  not  at  present  flourishing. 
The  laws  suitable  to  preserve  order  and  protect  property  in 
a  thickly-populated  country,  are  applied  to  an  opposite  state 
of  things  and  produce  opposite  results,  but  perhaps  time 
will  set  this  right,  as  English  emigrants  are  more  likely  to 
go  where  law  has  authority,  and  population  will  remedy 
the  evil.  The  view  of  the  Government  is  in  my  opinion 
the  long-sighted  one.  .  .  .     Wishing  you  a  pleasant  and 

successful  excursion,  ^  j  •       ■, 

'  '  I  remam,  dear  sir, 

'  Yours  very  truly. 

*  If  I  can  ever  do  anything  for  you  in  England  I  shall  be 
most  happy.     My  address  is  Odsay,  near  Royston,  Herts.' 

At  Colesberg  Oswell  received  a  hurried  note  of  good 
wishes  from  Vardon.  *  What  about  the  Lake,'  he  begins 
'  — to  be  or  not  to  be  ?'  and  a  long  letter  from  Captain 
Steele  : 

*  My  dear  Oswell,  '>'•  26,  1849. 

'  I  must  not  allow  much  more  time  to  slip  by 
without  sending  you  a  line  to  reach  you  before  quitting 
civilized  life,  and  I  hope  you  will  get  this  about  the  time 
you  are  starting  for  the  interior.  I  wish  I  could  fold 
myself  up  in  the  envelope  and  appear  by  your  side  at  the 
same  moment  you  open  this,  all  prepared  for  a  trek.     Of 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION 


i»i 


your  movements  since  you  left  me  in  that  hurried  manner 
at  Windsor,  I  have  as  yet  heard  nothing,     I  did  not  even 
know  the  name  of  the  vessel  you  sailed  in,  so  that  I  could 
not  see  by  the  shipping  reports  of  your  safe  arrival  at  Cape- 
town.    On  all  these  subjects  I  hope  to  be  enlightened  one 
of  these  days.     I  was  however  glad  to  hear  from  Richard- 
son, the  Colonel  of  the  7th  Dragoon  Guards,  that  Mr. 
Murray  had  sailed  to  accompany  you.     I  did  not  at  all 
like  the  idea  of  your  starting  off  for  such  a  trip  by  your- 
self, and  there  are  not  many  men  you  would  care  to  under- 
take the  expedition  with  ;  but  an  old  friend,  and  particu- 
larly one  who  had  already  been  up  with  you,  makes  quite 
a  different  thing.  ...     I  am  living  now  in  a  retired  little 
roadside  inn  at  Brixworth,  a  small  village  in  Northamp- 
tonshire.    I    have  four  very  good    hunters  and  get   my 
four  or  five  days  a  week  with  the  Pytcheley  and  Quorn 
hounds.     I  am  quite  convinced  now  that  it  is  A.i  in  the 
list  of  sports.     A  good  run  such  as  we  often  get  in  these 
grass  countries  is  far  more  exciting  than  walking  up  to  an 
old  Jmttec,  riding  down  a  keitloa  or  spearing  a  hog.     If 
one  could  always  have  such  a  day's  sport  as  you,  Gifford 
and  I  had  after  the  tiger  near  the  Karity  Waterfall,  well 
then,  that's  another  thing.    But,  take  one  day  with  another, 
the  delight  of  rattling  across  country  and  finding  oneself 
one  out  of  four  or  five  who  have  been  riding  to  hounds,  is 
not  to  be  surpassed  in  any  part  of  the  world.     I  do  wish 
you  had  remained  for  one  season  and  had  been  living  with 
me  in  this  snug  little  inn.     I  am  sure  you  would  have 
enjoyed  it,  and  in  the  course  of  one  fortnight  I  could  have 
introduced  you  to  half  the  people  in  the  county.     I  hope 
however  to  be  here  every  year,  so  that  I  may  yet  have  the 
chance  of  talking  over  your  last  shikar  in  Africa  over  a 
good  fire  in  old  England.  .  .  .     You  will  most  likely  have 
much  later  Indian  news  than  we  have.     Up  to  this  time 
nothing  very  brilliant  appears  to  have  been  done.     The 
action  at  Ramnugger  with  the  loss  of  poor  Cureton  and 
Havelock  must  have  been  a  blundering,  mismanaged  affair. 


1 82  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

I  am  afraid  Lord  Gough  will  not  shine  on  this  occasion. 
It  is  quite  astonishing  how  very  little  people  seem  to  care 
in  England  about  what  is  going  on  in  India.  I  was  staying 
at  a  house  the  other  day  and  announced  at  breakfast  the 
death  of  those  two  men.  The  only  remark  was,  "  Dear 
me,  how  very  sad  !  I  wonder  where  Sir  Richard  Sutton 
meets  next  Monday."  What  a  consolation  to  a  man 
fighting  in  India  to  know  that  it  is  pretty  nearly  a  matter 
of  moonshine  to  most  of  the  people  in  England  whether 
the  Punjaub  is  annexed  or  not !  Gilford  is,  I  see  by  the 
papers,  with  Lord  Gough,  so  he  will  see  more  soldiering 
than  I  am  likely  to  do.  .  .  .  And  now  God  bless  you,  my 
dear  fellow.  I  sincerely  hope  you  may  have  good  health — 
good  sport  you  are  sure  of — and  that  you  may  return  safe 
and  sound  to  this  country  with  the  great  Lake  with  you  ! 

'  Ever  your  sincere  friend.' 

In  April,  1849,  Oswell  wrote  home  from  Colesberg,  and 
then  nothing  was  heard  of  him  until  February  it,  1850, 
when  extracts  from  two  letters  from  Dr.  Livingstone, 
announcing  the  complete  success  of  the  expedition,  were 
read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  The  papers 
of  the  day  took  up  the  subject,  and  discussed  it  with  much 
interest.  But  no  word  arrived  from  Oswell,  and  his  rela- 
tions, jealous  of  his  reputation  and  eager  for  his  fame, 
chafed  at  the  delay  and  at  his  supineness  in  claiming  his 
share  of  the  credit  and  honour  of  an  expedition  and  a 
discovery  of  which  he  had  been  the  leader  and  moving 
spirit,  and  all  the  world  was  talking : 

Rev.  E.  ]V.  Oswell  to  his  Brother. 

'  bonchurch, 

'  Isle  of  Wight, 

'  Mch.  9,  1850. 

'  Week  after  week  we  have  been  in  expectation  of 
hearing  from  you,  without  avail,  and  all  the  intelligence 
we  have  had  has  been  gleaned  from  the  newspapers  which 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  183 

have  mentioned  the  discovery  of  the  great  inland  Lake. 
The  last  account  from  the  AthencBiim  induced  me  to  make 
application  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society  in  London  (in  which  Society  was  read  a  paper 
on  the  subject  of  your  discovery)  for  more  information 
than  I  possessed.  He  writes  me  word  this  morning 
that  you  are  in  good  health,  for  which  intelligence  I  am 
most  thankful,  and  that  you  have  gone  to  the  Cape  for  a 
boat  to  navigate  the  Lake.  Would  that  we  might  hear 
from  you  from  there  !  It  may  not  be  too  late  yet.  But 
how  the  Secretary  has  obtained  this  news  I  have  not 
learnt,  and  have  to-day  written  to  enquire,  as  I  feel  entitled 
to  know  all  that  is  known  of  you.  We  all  rejoice  in  the 
success  of  your  expedition  most  heartily,  and  only  want  a 
letter  from  you  to  feel  quite  happy.  Some  gentleman  is 
about  to  leave  from  the  Geographical  Society  to  join  you, 
and  I  hope  to  induce  him  to  take  charge  of  this,  and  to 
come  and  see  me  before  he  goes.  I  rather  envy  you  on 
the  banks  of  Ngami — is  not  that  the  name  of  the  Lake  ? — 
surrounded  as  we  are  just  at  present  with  fog  and  haze. 
I  do  hope  you  have  kept  regular  notes  of  your  proceedings. 
The  Secretary  of  the  Geographical  Society  regrets  in  his 
letter  to  me  that  you  have  not  sent  him  such  in  order 
that  he  might  have  the  pleasure  of  putting  your  name  down 
as  a  candidate  for  one  of  the  two  gold  medals  given  by 
the  Society  for  discoveries.  /  hope  you  may  have  kept 
them  for  other  reasons.  I  want  to  find  out  Captain 
Vardon's  whereabouts,  as  I  fancy  he  knows  something 
about  you.  Has  Mr.  Livingstone  any  relations  here- 
abouts ?  There  is  a  clergyman  of  that  name  residing  in 
this  place.  I  feel  an  intense  desire  to  hear  from  you,  and 
I  sincerely  trust  that  if  you  are  detained  at  the  Lake  you 
will  devise  some  mode  of  communicating  with  me.  And 
looking  forward  in  great  hopes  of  seeing  you  ere  very  long 
in  England,  and  with  very  kind  love  from  all  here, 
'  I  am  ever,  with  every  earnest  prayer, 

'  Your  very  affectionate  Brother.' 


i84  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

At  last,  on  March  20th,  1850,  to  the  proud  dehght  of 
all  the  family,  the  long-delayed,  eagerly-desired  letter 
arrived. 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  Benjamin  Cotton. 

'  Cape  Town, 
'My  Dear  Uncle.  '>»•  16,  1850. 

'  I  owe  many  letters  and  am  but  one  man  having 
but  one  subject  to  write  about — self.  It  would  be  hardly 
worth  while  to  tell  one  that  I  went  here  and  another  I 
went  there,  one  I  did  this  and  another  I  did  so.  My  credi- 
tors are  all  your  nephews  and  nieces  and  look  upon  you  as 
their  joint  property.  Surely,  such  being  the  case,  they 
will  consider  a  letter  to  you  as  theirs  also.  I'll  take  this 
for  granted,  though  I  think  I  can  hear  cries  of  "  Idle 
fellow  !"  and  "I'll  never  write  to  him  again  !"  When  they 
have  waded  through  this  perhaps  they  will  change  their 
minds,  and  congratulate  themselves  that  I  have  not  bored 
them  individually. 

'  I  wrote  to  Edward  just  before  leaving  Colesberg  in 
April  last,  but  no  second  opportunity  has  offered  until 
now,  as  I  have  but  just  returned  to  the  land  of  Post  Offices. 
When  I  started  I  had  a  definite  object,  but  did  not  men- 
tion it,  as  it  would  not  have  enlightened  or  interested  you 
much  in  England,  and  my  failure  would  have  gratified  some 
of  the  good  folks  here.  There  have  for  many  years  been 
reports  received  through  natives  from  time  to  time  of  the 
existence  of  a  Lake  in  the  interior  of  Southern  Africa.  In 
1835,  I  think,  an  expedition  was  fitted  out  by  Govern- 
ment, and  headed  by  a  Dr.  Smith,  purposely  for  its  dis- 
covery. They  grew  discouraged  and  turned  homewards. 
Many  others  have  since  talked  of  making  the  attempt,  and 
the  Griquas,  a  mixed  race  living  to  the  North  of  the 
Orange  River,  have  repeatedly  tried  it,  but  always  failed 
for  want  of  water.  Two  hundred  miles  beyond  Dr.  Smith's 
farthest  point  I  had  pushed  in  my  former  wanderings,  and 
heard  of  the  existence  of  this  Lake  and  its  direction,  from 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  185 

many  of  the  natives  ;  this  time  I  determined  to  make  for 
it,  for  I  felt  persuaded  the  difficulties  were  not  insurmount- 
able, and  the  more  arduous  the  task,  so  long  as  we  accom- 
plished it,  the  better.  With  horses,  oxen  and  wagons  I 
waited  four  weeks  at  Colesberg,  the  last  of  the  frontier 
towns,  for  Murray,  and  inspanning  immediately  on  his 
arrival,  passed  onwards  to  Kolobeng,  the  most  Northern 
Missionary  Station,  situated  in  24°  30'  S.  Lat.  and  about 
25°  30'  E.  Long.  Here  our  party  was  increased  by  Mr. 
Livingstone,  the  Missionary,  and  a  Mr.  Wilson.  A  party 
of  the  Baquaina,  the  tribe  residing  at  Kolobeng,  accom- 
panied us,  and  one  of  them  who  had  in  former  j-ears  been 
at  the  "  Great  Water  "  was  appointed  guide  through  the 
pathless  wilds.  For  the  first  hundred  and  twenty  miles, 
to  the  hills  of  the  Bamungwato,  a  people  whom  we  all 
had  previously  visited,  the  course  took  a  N.E.  direction. 
From  this  point  the  road  was  unknown  save  by  report. 
Two  days'  travelling  through  heavy  sand  covered  with  low 
bush  and  clumps  of  mimosa,  in  a  N.N.E.  line,  brought 
us  to  a  spot  called  by  the  natives  Serotli. 

*  It  was  here  our  first  difficulties  began.  Serotli  stands 
on  the  extreme  verge  of  the  Kalahari  Desert.  Our  oxen 
had  already  been  without  water  for  two  days  on  our 
arrival,  and  there  was  no  apparent  probability  of  their 
obtaining  that  necessary.  The  place  itself  was  a  sand 
hollow  with  no  signs  of  water  save  about  a  pint  in  one 
small  hole.  We  had  eighty  oxen,  twenty  horses  and 
thirty  or  forty  men,  all  thirsty.  Unpromising  as  was  the 
appearance  of  the  spot,  the  old  guide  assured  us  that  if 
we  dug  we  should  obtain  a  supply.  Spades  and  land- 
turtle  shells  were  accordingly  set  to  work,  and  at  the 
close  of  the  day  we  had  sufficient  to  give  the  horses  a  sip 
each.  For  two  days  longer  the  poor  oxen  had  still  to 
remain  without,  but  four  pits  being  at  length  opened  to 
the  depth  of  eight  or  nine  feet,  a  sufficiency  for  all  our 
beasts  was  obtained.  Watering  them,  we  once  more 
moved  on.     The  sand  was  distressingly  heavy  and  the 


i86  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

sun  fiery  hot.  The  oxen  moved  so  slowly  and  with  such 
difficulty  that  I  was  at  times  afraid  we  should  fail  even  in 
the  very  outset,  but  fortunately,  considerably  before  we 
expected  it,  on  the  third  day  we  came  by  chance  upon  a 
small  pool  of  rain-water.  The  poor  beasts  were  nearly 
exhausted,  but  a  day's  rest  and  three  or  four  good  drinks 
recruited  them.  The  most  trying,  because  the  heaviest, 
part  of  the  Kalahari  was  behind,  but  a  hundred  miles  was 
still  between  us  and  any  certain  supply  of  water.  Another 
small  rain-water  pond  and  a  little  spring,  however,  fur- 
nished us  with  what  we  wanted,  though  not  without  our 
having  to  go  twice,  three  days  without.  You  will  perhaps 
wonder  at  our  being  so  long  in  covering  so  short  a 
distance,  but  a  wagon  is  not  a  steam-carriage.  Water 
was  excessively  scarce,  its  whereabouts  unknown,  and  the 
sand,  occasionally  for  miles  together,  over  the  felloes  of  the 
wheels.  I  shall  never  forget  the  pleasure  with  which, 
whilst  riding  out  ahead  of  the  wagons,  on  the  4th  of  July, 
we  came  suddenly  upon  a  considerable  river,*  running,  as 
we  struck  it,  N.E.  by  E.  The  wagons  reached  it  the 
same  evening,  and  our  troubles  were  looked  upon  as  past, 
for  we  were  informed  by  the  natives,  with  whom  we 
managed  after  much  trouble  to  open  a  parley,  that  the 
water  flowed  from  the  Lake  we  were  in  search  of.  Their 
information  was  correct,  and  holding  up  the  course  of  the 
stream  for  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  and  meeting 
with  no  difliculties  to  speak  of,  save  from  the  denseness 
of  the  bush  and  trees  in  particular  tracts,  through  which 
we  had  to  cut  our  way,  we  at  length  reached  the  object 
of  our  expedition,  and  were  fully  repaid. 

'  None  save  those  who  have  suffered  from  the  want, 
know  the  beauty  of  water.  A  magnificent  sheet  without 
bound  that  we  could  see,  gladdened  our  eyes.  Animal 
life,  which  had  in  the  Desert  been  confined  to  one  or  two 
of  the  deer  tribe  which  do  not  require  water,  and  Bush- 

*  The  Zousfa. 


i 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  189 

men,  who  inserting  a  reed  some  three  or  four  feet  below 
the  surface,  suck  it  up,  was  here  and  there  along  the  river, 
greatly  increased.  A  new  nation,  speaking  a  language 
totally  distinct  from  the  Bechuana,  inhabited  the  islands, 
moving  across  the  water  in  their  canoes  and  living  prin- 
cipally on  fish,  and  animals  taken  in  the  pitfalls  which 
lined  the  banks  of  the  stream.  Among  the  ferce  the 
elephant  and  buffalo  were  the  most  numerous,  the  latter 
roaming  in  immense  herds,  and  every  accessible  drinking 
place  in  the  river  being  trampled  with  the  spoor  of  the 
former.  I  had  not  much  spare  time  to  shoot,  but  a  few 
capital  specimens  fell  to  my  gun. 

'  The  scenery  generally  along  the  river  w^as  magnificent. 
Trees  of  great  size,  rich  in  foliage,  fringed  it  on  either 
side ;  now  it  is  shut  in  between  high  steep  banks,  and 
runs  black  and  deep ;  now  it  opens  out  into  a  broader 
and  shallower  bed  dotted  with  banks  and  islands.  Its 
vegetation  is  distinct  from  that  of  the  country  from  which 
we  came ;  palms,  flowering  trees  something  like  lilacs, 
and  a  species  of  the  ficus  indica  were  abundant ;  in  places 
that  giant  the  mowanah  or  baobab  was  found.  Of  this 
tree  I  have  spoken  to  you  before,  but  those  seen  this  year 
exceeded  our  old  friends  in  size ;  the  largest  measured 
was  upwards  of  seventy-five  feet  in  circumference  at 
four  feet  from  the  ground.  The  lake  is  situated  in 
S.  Lat.  20°  ig'  and  about  24°  E.  Long.  We  had  to  make 
a  long  detour  to  the  Eastward  to  obtain  water,  and  con- 
sequently the  distance  from  the  last  Missionary  station 
was  about  six  hundred  miles.  From  knowing  where  to 
dig  for  water,  our  route  back  was  not  so  harassing  as  our 
inwards  one,  though  want  of  water  made  us  longer  than 
we  otherwise  should  have  been.  I  could  write  at  much 
greater  length  to  you  on  this  topic,  but  will  spare  you. 
My  African  mania  is  apt  to  run  away  with  me.  .  .  . 
You  mention  ;^270  having  come  to  me  by  Mrs.  Harrison's 
death.  Ask  Lou  Cotton  to  take  £25  of  it,  and  after 
deducting   my  share   of  our  picture    (;£'2o)   to  spend  the 


igo  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

remainder  as  seemeth  good  to  her,  in  soup ! !  or  flannel 
waistcoats.  -^45  I  should  like  you  to  hold  and  dispose  of 
in  charity  as  you  will,  for  one  who  is  too  indolent  and 
selfish  to  think  sufficiently  of  others  himself.  The  remain- 
ing ;£'20o  you  can  either  pay  into  Colvin  &  Co.'s  hands 
or  keep  in  your  own,  as  you  like  best.  Tell  Dr.  Acland 
I  have  tried  hard  to  get  him  specimens  of  Bechuana  and 
Bushmen  skulls,  but  the  former  bury  their  dead  so  close 
to  their  houses,  and  are  so  touchy  as  to  their  being 
disturbed,  and  the  latter  are,  when  dead,  so  soon  devoured 
by  the  birds  and  beasts,  that  I  have  hitherto  failed.  The 
scales  tell  me  that  notwithstanding  the  hard  work  we 
have  undergone,  rather  better  than  14  lbs.  have  somehow 
or  other  been  added  to  my  English  weight.  You  will 
think  it  about  time  that  I  should  say  how  I  intend  dis- 
posing of  myself  for  the  current  year,  and  will,  I  am 
afraid,  be  rather  disappointed  at  my  persisting  in  a  life  of 
vagrancy  ;  but  the  accounts  from  home  are  so  good,  and 
my  love  of  vagabond  life  so  unsatiated,  that  I  purpose 
again  diving  into  the  interior  and  trying  to  reach  the 
Portuguese  settlements  on  the  Zambesi,  by  an  overland 
route. 

'  Mr.  Livingstone,  the  missionary,  will  again  accompany 
me,  Murray  will  not.  Of  our  intended  course  I  will  give  you 
some  idea  in  a  letter  which  D.  V.  I  will  send  to  my  brother 
from  Colesberg.  My  furlough  is  up  on  the  13th  of  Sep- 
tember next,  and  whether  my  Honourable  Masters  will 
give  me  an  extension,  is,  I  am  afraid,  doubtful,  but 
I  shall  solicit  it.  It  is  my  sincere  wish  to  return  to 
India  if  I  can  conscientiously  believe  I  can  live  there,  but 
of  this  I  am  very  doubtful,  for  although  now  in  this 
country  I  am  much  better  than  in  England,  my  interior 
is  not  altogether  as  it  should  be,  especially  during  the  hot 
weather.  You  must  not  think  I  wish  to  complain,  for 
this  is  not  the  case.  I  thank  God  that  I  am  much  better 
than  I  was.  Before  deciding  upon  trying  Madras  again, 
I  shall  take  the   advice  of  the   best   medical   authorities 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  191 

here,  and  be  guided  by  their  opinion.     Love  to  my  very 
dear  brother  and  to  all.     God  bless  you. 

'  Yours  most  affectionately, 

'  W.    OSWELL. 

'  P.S. — Did  Joe  Cotton  ever  get  his  bulbs  ?  .  .  .  I  am  send- 
ing you  home  half  a  dozen  skin  dresses  of  the  Kafirs,  with 
a  few  ostrich  feathers  for  the  cousins.  The  thick  "  caross  " 
please  hand  over  to  the  Parson  to  keep  him  warm  in  the 
carriage  during  the  winter.  Do  what  you  wish  with  the 
others — the  leopard  skin  makes  a  handsome  cover  for 
a  table.  If  I  do  not  go  to  India  on  my  return,  you  may 
expect  me  home  again.  The  worst  part  of  Cape  Town  is 
its  want  of  obedience — the  inhabitants  still  refusing  to 
receive  Her  Majesty's  convicts.  Sir  Harry  Smith's  con- 
duct is  considered  to  have  been  very  weak.' 

Oswell  had  made  no  mistake  in  addressing  his  letter 
to  his  uncle  : 

Miss  Louisa  D.  Cotton  to  her  Coitsin  W.  Cotton  Oswell. 

'  Gloucester  Terrace, 

'  March  23,  1850. 
'  My  dear  William, — 

'  Your  long-expected  and  capital  letter  of  January 
i6th,  from  the  Cape,  which  reached  us  a  few  days  back, 
gave  us  all  very  great  pleasure,  and  perfectly  satisfied  all 
parties  that  it  was  addressed  to  our  dear,  good  Uncle.  You 
would  hardly  believe  what  true  pleasure  and  interest  he 
took  in  trying  to  find  out  something  about  you  from  the 
Secretary  of  the  Geographical  Society,  who  was  very  close 
with  his  information,  and  seemed  only  to  care  to  increase 
the  fellows  of  the  Society,  regretting  very  much  you  had 
not  corresponded  with  them  and  become  a  member. 
Edward,  in  consequence,  empowered  Uncle  to  nominate 
him  a  Member,  that  thus  he  might  be  entitled  to  all  the  in- 
formation they  gained.    However,  I  do  not  think  Uncle  will 


192  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

have  him  proposed  now  we  have  had  your  letter,  and  a 
promise  that  you  will  write  again  from  Colesberg.  Uncle 
has  seen  Mr.  (or  perhaps  Captain)  Frank  Vardon,  and 
many  were  the  regrets  you  had  not  written  to  him.  But 
now  he  has  seen  your  letter  he  intends  himself  to  be  at 
the  next  Geographical  Meeting  and  put  in  a  few  words  for 
you,  the  prime  mover  in  the  great  discovery,  whereas, 
through  the  London  Missionary  Society,  Mr.  Livingstone 
seems  to  have  more  than  his  due.  I  intend  sending  this 
letter  to  Captain  Vardon  to  give  to  a  Mr.  Galton,  who  is 
going  out,  we  hear,  to  join  you  next  week.  .  ,  .  Robert 
always  mentions  you  in  his  letters  and  says  he  has  seen 
your  name  as  having  made  the  discovery  of  the  large  in- 
land lake.  .  .  .  Uncle  says  you  will  have  a  bonus  from 
the  London  Insurance  this  year  of  ;^75,  but  he  adds 
•'  Much  he  cares  for  this"  !....' 

Before  setting  out  William  Oswell  had  promised  to 
write  details  of  his  journey  at  the  very  earliest  oppor- 
tunity to  his  dear  friend  Captain  Vardon,  whose  romantic 
feeling  for  Africa  and  all  things  African  equalled  his  own. 
The  sweetest-natured  of  men,  Vardon  was  incapable  of 
taking  offence  at  anything  his  friend  did  or  failed  to  do ; 
but  with  this  promise  in  mind,  and  with  more  intimate 
and  accurate  knowledge  of  the  country  and  the  explorer 
than  any  man  then  in  England,  it  was  a  bitter  dis- 
appointment to  him  to  hear  the  first  accounts  from  another 
source.  But  he  did  not  allow  it  to  interfere  with  the 
heartiness  of  his  congratulations  : 

'  33,  Oxford  Terrace, 
'  Hyde  Park, 

'  March  25,  1850. 
'  My  dear  Oswell, — 
'  .  .  .  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  a  denizen  of 
the  mighty  Lake  looks  with  ineffable  contempt  on  a  Lim- 
popo  plodder,   and   that  one    who  once  crept  along  the 


AFRICA  :  THIRD  EXPEDITION  193 

sandy  margin  of  the  crystal  Mokolwe,  is  not  henceforth  to 
hold  communion  with  him  whose  foot  has  left  its  print 
on  the  banks    of  the  noble  Zouga !     Be  this  as  it  may, 
however,   I  cannot    allow   Mr.    Francis  Galton   to  leave 
England  for  Kolobeng  without  giving  you  a  line  or  two 
and  congratulating  you  from  the  bottom  of  my  heart  on 
having  at  length  reached  the  "  Groot  Vater."     Your  good 
uncle,  Benjamin  Cotton,  called  on  me  not  long  ago  to  ask 
me  if  I  had  any  tidings  of  you.    Then  your  worthy  brother 
wrote  to  me  from  the  Isle  of  Wight,  to  the  same  purport. 
Since  then,  however,  your  letter  to  the  former  has  arrived, 
and  he  very  kindly  came  over  here  with  it,  and  made  me 
acquainted  with  its  contents.  .  .  .     Livingstone's  letters 
have  been  read  before  very   full   meetings  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  and  he  has  acquired  immense  renown 
in  consequence.     I  was  present  when  his  very  long  letter 
to  Steele  was  read.     It  is  a  thousand  pities  no  production 
of  yours    was   likewise    forthcoming.      You    are    indeed 
wasting    your    sweetness  on   the  desert  air !     I    long  to 
hear  more  about  the  lake.     What  about  the  liche  ?     Is 
there  such  a  buck  ?     Did  you  fall  in  with  him  or  not  ?     I 
hope  you  may  meet  with  Galton.     He  is  an  enterprising 
fellow  and  has  seen  something  of  the   White  Nile.     His 
present  expedition  is  to  be  quite  a  boating  one  on  the  Lake 
and  its  rivers,  and  he  takes  up  with  him  a  beautiful  craft 
for  the  purpose.     I  hope  he  will  succeed  and  so  circum- 
navigate the  Lake  and  determine  its  extent.     It  will  be  a 
most  interesting  trip    indeed.      Again  and  again  have  I 
wished   I    was   entitled   to   a   pension  from    our   worthy 
masters.     I  would  wish  them  good-bye,  and  set  to  at  Africa 
in  earnest.     I  hope  you  will  succeed  in  your  Zambesi  ex- 
pedition. .  .  .     Gumming  is  herein  England.  I  believe  he 
intends  exhibiting  all  his  trophies  by  and  bye — in  London 
of  course.     They  say  Dr.  Smith  lost  money  by  his,  but  I 
cannot  fancy  Gumming  losing  by  anything,  can  you  ?     .  .  . 
My  brothers  are  all  well  and  repeatedly  ask  me  if  I  have 
heard  from  you,  and  how  you  are  getting  on,  but  an  ominous 
VOL.  I.  13 


194  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

shake  of  the  head  is  all  that  I  can  favour  them  with. 
I  have  written  to  Livingstone  by  this  opportunity.  No 
doubt  he  is  as  good  and  kind  a  little  fellow  as  ever.  I 
should  like  to  have  a  chat  with  him  once  more.  I  some- 
times think  I've  a  great  mind  to  stay  my  five  years  away 
from  India  and  to  rush  off  to  Kolobeng  at  once,  but  I  am 
not  the  rich  man,  Oswell,  that  you  are,  and  my  exchequer 
don't  at  all  keep  pace  with  my  gigantic  ideas.  Had  I  only 
the  means,  I  would  resign  the  service,  join  you  in  South 
Africa,  and  if  we  didn't  go  ahead  together  it  would  be  a 
pity  !  .  .  .  I  am  having  such  a  rifle  made  by  Willon — 
a  2-ouncer  of  course,  very  similar  to  the  one  you  no 
doubt  remember,  and  the  Chokooroos  won't  soon  forget. 
...  I  hear  from  Steele  he  intends  travelling  in  South 
America.  I  wonder  he  don't  stick  to  poor  old  Africa. 
We  are  still  all  doubt  and  uncertainty  here  about  our  old 
friend  the  Limpopo.  What  do  you  think  of  it  now  ? 
Have  you  gleaned  any  more  particulars  about  it  ?  Delagoa 
Bay  or  not  ?  Were  I  to  go  out  again  my  plan  would  be 
to  construct  a  boat  at  the  junction  of  the  Lephalala  and 
Limpopo  and  so  go  down  it  to  the  sea,  or  at  any  rate  till 
I  knew  whether  it  was  the  Manice  or  not.  .  .  .  Do  you 
remember  a  point  where  it  made  a  sudden  bend  South  by 
East  after  running  very  nearly  due  North  ?  Dr.  Smith 
got  as  far  as  this,  and  fancies  it  makes  no  more  Northing. 
But  we  came  on  no  such  turns  which  lasted  for  any  dis- 
tance, I  think.  The  opinion  here  is  that  it  does  go  into 
Delagoa  Bay.  Something  tells  me  I  may  yet  see  that 
river  again.  Would  that  I  could  get  another  lesson  or 
two  in  elephant  shooting  from  you,  on  its  banks !  When- 
ever you  have  an  opportunity  be  sure  you  write  to  your 
uncle  or  brother.  They  really  seemed  quite  distressed  at 
not  having  heard  from  you,  and  I  am  sure  you  wouldn't 
like  them  always  to  be  applying  to  different  people  for 
scraps  from  Livingstone's  letters,  etc.,  in  hopes  of  gaining 
some  information  of  you.  You  are  fortunate  indeed  in 
having  friends  who  do  take  such  interest  in  you,  and  it  is 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  195 

no  very  desperate  labour  to  concoct  a  few  lines  during  an 
idle  hour,  is  it  ?  I  know  you  will  pardon  me  for  mention- 
ing this,  but  I  didn't  like  to  see  your  good  old  uncle  so 
entirely  destitute  of  information,  especially  when  the 
Secretary  of  the  Geographical  Society  (to  whom  he  and 
your  brother  applied)  was  not  particularly  communicative 
or  obliging.  So  spare  him  the  mortification  of  having  to 
apply  in  that  quarter  again.  And  now,  my  dear  Oswell, 
farewell.  May  God  bless  you  and  bring  you  once  more 
home,  where  no  one  will  be  more  happy  to  welcome  you 
again  than 

'  Your  affectionate  friend, 

'  Frank  Vardon.' 

It  is  pleasant  to  know  that  two  days  later  he  received  a 
minute  account  of  the  expedition,  which  in  every  particular 
amply  fulfilled  his  most  sanguine  expectations  : 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  Captain  Frank  Vardon. 

'  Cape  Town, 

^Jan.   ID,   1850. 

'  On  the  loth  of  March  I  left  Graham's  Town  for  Kolo- 
beng,  with  three  wagons  and  five  of  my  old  servants,  and, 
picking  up  horses  as  I  went,  outspanned  at  Colesberg  for 
four  weeks  waiting  for  Murray.  Inspanned  on  his  arrival 
(23rd  of  April),  and  reached  Kolobeng  on  the  25th  or  26th 
of  May.  The  town  stands  in  naked  deformity  on  the  side 
of  and  under  a  ridge  of  red  iron  sandstone — the  Mission- 
house  on  a  little  rocky  eminence  over  the  river  Kolobeng. 
Murray  and  I  left  it  the  day  after  our  arrival,  and, 
trekking  to  a  water  called  Shokuan,  there  halted  for 
Livingstone.  The  whole  party  left  the  water  of  Shokuan 
on  the  morning  of  the  2nd  of  June.  To  Mashue  the  road 
is  much  the  same  as  other  African  roads — sometimes  flat 
and  open,  sometimes  bush  and  camel-thorn,  and  is  besides 
the  high  road  to  the  Bamangwato.     From  this  we  struck 

13—2 


196  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

off  at  nearly  N.  as  a  general  line,  and  journeying  forty 
miles  over  heavy  sand  ridges  and  flats  sparingly  covered 
with  scrubby  bushes,  reached  on  the  third  morning  (having 
watered  our  oxen  once  on  the  way  at  Lobotani)  a  place 
called  Serotli.  I  look  upon  this  as  the  portal  of  the  much 
talked-of  desert,  and  will  therefore  try  to  give  you  some 
idea  of  it.  Imagine  to  yourself  a  heavy  sandy  hollow  with 
half-a-dozen  such  holes  or  depressions  as  a  rhinoceros 
would  make  by  rolling  himself  as  he  usually  does.  In  one 
of  these  stood  about  two  pannikins  of  water,  and  at  this 
spot,  we  were  told,  was  the  last  chance  of  water  for  seventy 
miles  (three  long  days  with  a  wagon).  A  quart  is  but 
short  allowance  for  eighty  oxen,  twenty  horses,  and  as 
many  human  beings.  We  had  in  coming  thus  far  been 
once  three  days  without  water,  but  our  oxen  were  quite 
fresh  then,  and  rattled  over  sixty  three  miles  in  style. 
But  the  natives,  who  busily  engaged  themselves  imme- 
diately on  their  arrival  with  throwing  out  the  sand  from 
the  little  hollows,  assured  us  that  there  was  plenty  of  nietse 
(water)  within.  By  the  evening  of  the  first  day  we  had 
two  pits  opened,  and  sufficient  to  give  the  horses  a  bucket 
apiece ;  but  as  there  appeared  no  chance  for  the  oxen  until 
more  pits  were  opened  (nor  even  then  if  the  water  did  not 
flow  in  more  quickly  than  it  was  doing),  we  determined  to 
send  them  back  twenty-five  miles  to  Lobotani,  to  remain 
there  until  we  could  ascertain  whether  the  supply  could  be 
made  to  equal  the  demand.  Late  on  the  morning  of  the 
fifth  day  the  poor  brutes  reached  their  drinking  place,  having 
been  four  full  days  (ninety-six  hours)  thirsting.  The  horses 
remained  with  us,  for  we  foresaw  a  sufficiency  for  them, 
and  a  deficiency  of  food  for  ourselves  without  them.  The 
holes  we  had  emptied  the  preceding  evening  were  con- 
siderably fuller  the  next  morning,  and  this  we  afterwards 
found  invariably  the  case  :  time  seemed  to  be  required  for 
the  water  to  clear  its  way  through  its  sandy  bed.  The 
oxen  returned  from  Lobotani  on  the  fifth  day,  after  a  variety 
of  mishaps  which  I  will  tell  you  some  day  when  we  meet 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  197 

— they  are  not  worth  writing.  We  had  a  good  supply  of 
drink  ready  for  them,  and  letting  them  have  it  at  once,  we 
inspanned,  but,  what  with  the  heat  and  the  sand,  could  make 
but  six  miles  by  sundown.  The  next  night,  with  a  little 
application  of  the  whip,  we  reached  a  spot  called  Mokalani 
(the  camel-thorn  trees).  Our  trocheameter  told  us  we 
were  twenty-five  miles  from  the  Serotli  pits,  and  our  guide 
seemed  to  hint  that,  if  we  went  so  slowly,  it  was  a  matter 
of  doubt  whether  we  reached  the  next  watering  place  at 
all.  It  will  be  long  if  I  ever  forget  this  night  at  Mokalani. 
We  were  fairly  away,  and  no  one,  I  really  think,  would 
have  turned  back  for  any  consideration  ;  but  the  anxiety 
as  to  whether  we  should  accomplish  our  intentions  or  not 
was  pretty  strong  within  me  at  all  events.  The  want  of 
any  knowledge  of  the  road,  save  that  it  was  by  repute  very 
heavy  and  nearly  waterless,  coupled  with  the  difficulty 
with  which  the  oxen  had  dragged  the  heavy  wagons  through 
the  sand  on  the  preceding  day,  greatly  tended  to  increase 
this,  and,  regarding  the  poor  brutes  as  the  means  through 
which  I  was  to  gain  my  point,  they  were  objects  of  con- 
stant care  ;  for  I  had  determined,  if  possible,  that  my 
wagon  should  take  me  there. 

'  After  breakfast,  on  the  second  day  from  Serotli,  the 
horses  were  sent  on  ahead  with  our  guide :  they  could 
travel  faster  than  the  oxen,  and  might  come  to  water 
the  latter  would  never  live  to  see.  We  followed  on 
their  trail,  which  led  for  the  most  part  through  dense 
bush  and  heavy  sand.  Whips  and  screeching  could  get 
but  nineteen  miles  out  of  the  poor  beasts ;  they  were 
beginning  to  feel  the  want  of  water  sadly,  for  although 
hardly  two  days  without,  it  had  been  no  colony-travelling 
over  hard  roads,  but  right  harassing  work.  Forty-four 
miles  had  been  accomplished  with  great  difficulty  in 
twenty-one  hours  !  Murray  was  with  the  horses,  Living- 
stone and  myself  had  remained  behind.  The  dinner- 
party was  not  a  merry  one,  for  the  members  were  all  too 
well  aware  that  the  poor  bellowing  beasts  around  them 


igS  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

could  not  drag  on  the  wagons  very  much  farther,  and  the 
next  spring  was  beheved  to  be  still  some  thirty  miles  in 
advance.     We  determined  to  go  on  as  long  as  the  animals 
were  able  to  work,  and  then  send  them  on.     Half  an  hour 
in  the  morning  brought  us  to  the  edge  of  the  thicket  in 
which  we  had  passed  the  night,  and  upon  entering  the 
hollow  immediately  beyond,  the  steeds  came  into  view. 
Was  it  water  ?     No.     The  guide  had  lost  his  way  in  this 
pathless  wilderness,  and  Murray  very  rightly  had  halted 
at  once.     With  the  sun,  our  guide's  perceptions  seemed  to 
brighten,  and  he  again  walked  confidently  forward.     Eight 
miles  were  hardly  crawled,  when  the  waddling  gait  of  our 
oxen  warned  us  to  outspan.     The  natives  said  they  would 
follow  the  little  path  we  had  been  coming  along,  as  long 
as  it  led  in  the  right  direction,  in  the  hopes  of  finding 
what  we  stood  so  much  in  need  of.     It  appeared  after- 
wards that  they  had  been  told  of  a  small  marsh,  and  of 
this  they  now  went  in  search.      Breakfast  was  not  over 
when  one  of  them  returned  with  the  intelligence  of  a  large 
pool  close  at  hand.     The  oxen,  which  ten  minutes  before 
had  been  considered  as  all  but  exhausted,  were  now  yoked 
at  once.     Two  miles  brought  them  to  Mathuloani.     On 
Wednesday  we  had  quitted  Serotli — it  was  now  Saturday. 
Giving  our  cattle  Sunday's  rest,  we  again  proceeded,  though 
with  no  very  distinct  idea  when  we  were  to  see  water. 
Our  guide  indeed  assured  us  that  even  our  horses  would 
never  thirst    more,  that  we  were  in  the  bed  of  a  river, 
though  we  did  not  perceive  it,  but  we  knew  the  old  fellow's 
notions  of  the  distance  a  wagon  could  travel  were  rather 
vague — the  marsh  we  had  just  drunk  at  too  was  a  godsend 
he  never  calculated  on,  and  how  far  it  still  was  to  Moko- 
konyani  (the  first  certain  water  from  Serotli)  was  a  mystery. 
For  the  next  four  days  we  fared  well  enough,  finding  on 
the  first  and  third  a  sufficient  supply  of  rain  water,  and  on 
the  fourth  reaching  the  first  surface-water  in  Mokokoong* 

■•'■  These  sand  rivers  are  puzzles  to  me.     Water  has  evidently, 
from  the  height  of  the  banks,  once  flowed  in  them,  but  K'hen  and 


AFRICA  :  THIRD  EXPEDITION  199 

(the  river  of  the  guide)  at  a  place  called  Mokokonyani, 
signifying  "my  little  brindled  gnoo." 

'  After  leaving  Mathuloani  we  had  followed  the  course 
of  this  said  sand  river,  which  presently  became  defined 
enough,  but  was  to  all  appearance  dry.  It,  however, 
yielded  us  an  abundant  supply,  though  not  without  con- 
siderable labour  in  the  way  of  digging.  At  Lotlokani 
(another  small  spring  in  the  Mokokoong,  three  miles  from 
Mokokonyani)  we  left  the  river,  and  touching  it  once  again 
on  the  morning  of  the  second  day,  left  it  where  it  spreads 
out  into  a  large  lagoon-like  marsh,  now  dry.  Beyond  this 
our  pathfinder  wandered  a  second  time,  and  had  I  not 
captured  a  Bushwoman  whom  I  saw  skulking  off  in  the 
long  grass,  I  am  not  quite  sure  we  should  have  reached 
our  goal  so  well  as  we  did.  We  had  been  two  full  days 
without  water,  and  were  going  in  any  but  the  right  direc- 
tion when  I  discovered  her.  A  few  beads  and  mortal  terror 
induced  her  to  confess  that  she  knew  of  a  spring,  and 
offer  to  conduct  us  thither.  After  passing  through  a 
very  thick  belt  of  trees  we  came  suddenly  on  an  enormous 
saltpan,  or  rather  succession  of  saltpans.  It  was  evening, 
and  the  setting  sun  cast  a  blue  haze  over  the  white  incrus- 
tations, making  them  look  so  much  like  water,  that  though 
I  was  within  thirty  yards  of  the  edge,  I  made  sure  that  I 

why  has  it  ceased  to  do  so  ?  It  still  runs  under  the  surface. 
Dig  to  a  certain  depth,  and,  as  far  as  I  know,  you  invariably 
find  it ;  but  never  on  the  surface,  except  in  a  few  particular  spots 
where  the  limestone  appears  above  the  sand  and  there  is  a 
spring.  The  Mokokoong  is  but  a  fair  specimen  of  a  class  ; 
there  are  many  such  to  the  westward.  The  whole  desert,  so 
called,  from  Serotli  to  the  Zouga,  partakes  of  the  character  of 
its  rivers,  inasmuch  as  it  has  no  surface -water,  but  innumerable 
sucking-holes,  which  supply  the  Balala  and  Bushmen.  The 
Serotli  pits  are  a  good  specimen  of  the  whole.  A  reed  is  sunk 
two  or  three  feet  down  in  the  sand,  and  the  water  drawn  up  by 
the  mouth.  I  have  tried  it,  and  found  it  come  readily  and 
abundantly  ;  but  I  shall  take  up  small  pumps  next  time  with 
me. 


200  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

had  at  last  reached  the  Lake,  and  throwing  up  my  hat 
in  the  air,  I  shouted  till  the  Bushwoman  and  Bakuains 
thought  I  was  mad.  I  soon  discovered  my  mistake — 
many  made  it  after  me.  By  the  side  of  the  first  pan  was 
a  small  spring  of  very  brackish  water.  Our  oxen  reached 
it  next  morning.  From  this  point  towards  the  W.N.W. 
and  N.E.  we  could  see  dense  columns  of  black  smoke 
rising,  and  were  assured  that  it  was  the  reeds  of  the  lake 
on  fire !  Little  thought  we  that  the  lake  was  still  some 
three  hundred  miles  from  us.  Livingstone  and  myself 
had  been  climbing  up  the  little  hillocks  in  vain,  to  get 
a  "first  view,"  for  the  last  three  days;  but  all  doubts 
of  seeing  it  eventually  vanished  on  the  4th  of  July, 
when  riding  out  from  our  night's  resting  place  a  little 
beyond  Chakotsa,  to  search  for  a  path,  we  came  upon 
the  real  water  river  (the  Zouga)  running,  as  we  struck 
it,  towards  the  N.E.  A  village  was  nearly  opposite  us, 
and  we  were  naturally  anxious  to  open  a  communication, 
but  the  people  had  all  made  over  to  the  other  side. 
I  tried  to  drive  my  horse  through  a  place  that  looked 
like  a  drift,  but  got  him  swamped  and  very  nearly  lost 
him.  Livingstone  and  two  of  the  Bakuains  managed  to 
get  through,  and  we  were  gladdened  on  their  return  by 
the  news  that  the  water  we  saw  came  from  that  of  which 
we  were  in  search,  the  Great  Lake.  We  felt  all  our 
troubles  were  over,  and  next  morning,  when  our  wagons 
stood  on  the  banks  of  the  Zouga,  all  anxiety  for  the  result 
was  at  an  end.  We  might  be  a  long  while  ;  the  natives 
said  a  moon;  but  we  should  at  last  see  the  'Broad  Water,' 
for  we  had  a  river  at  our  feet,  and  nothing  to  do  but  to 
follow  it.  I  shall  mention  this  river  again  presently,  so  I 
will  not  detain  you  on  it  now.  We  followed  it  up  stream 
for  ninety-six  miles  from  the  point  at  which  we  struck  it,  and 
were  then  told  that  w^e  were  still  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  Lake.  Our  oxen  were  getting  tired,  and  could 
make  but  short  journeys  with  such  heavy  loads.  Emptying 
my  wagon,  therefore,  and  selecting  a  span  from  the  freshest. 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  201 

we  determined  to  make  a  push  for  it.  Leaving  the  other 
wagons  and  the  remainder  of  the  cattle  with  the  greater 
part  of  the  servants,  we  started  on  the  i6th  of  July,  and 
after  twelve  hard  days'  work  arrived  at  the  half  tribe  of  the 
Bamanguato,  who  call  themselves  Batouani.  We  out- 
spanned  nearly  abreast  of  the  town  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  Lake. 

'  A  tongue  of  land  or  an  island,  I  could  never  discover 
which,  jutting  out  in  a  peculiar  way,  and  sand  ridges, 
prevented  us  from  getting  a  fair  view  of  the  water 
where  our  wagon  stood,  so  we  mounted  the  horses  and 
rode  five  or  six  miles  along  the  bank,  and  then  I  was  fully, 
fully  satisfied,  and  more  than  repaid.  One  broad  sheet 
of  water  lay  before  us.  To  the  N.W.  and  W.  you  looked 
in  vain  for  shore.  To  all  appearance  in  those  directions 
it  was  boundless  as  the  ocean.  Straight  across,  that  is 
N.N.E.  from  where  we  were  standing,  the  shores  were, 
as  we  thought,  about  fourteen  miles  apart.  The  eye  could 
follow  their  tracery  for  a  short  distance  to  the  N.  and 
N.N.W,  Towards  the  E.  they  continued  slowly  but 
gradually  approaching  each  other,  and  contracted  sud- 
denly at  the  place  where  the  wagon  stood.  What  was 
an  expanse  of  water  eight  miles  across,  is  now,  just 
below,  but  a  moderately  broad  river  (say  two  hundred 
yards).  The  bank  on  which  we  stood  was  very  flat ; 
probably  the  opposite  one  may  be  so  too,  and  therefore 
not  visible  at  any  great  distance.  Of  the  actual  breadth 
I,  of  course,  can  form  no  correct  notion.  The  canoes 
never  cross  it,  but  some  coast  round  and  along  the  shores. 
Of  its  extent  we  may  perhaps  arrive  at  an  approximation 
from  the  accounts  of  the  Batouani,  who  assert  that  a  man 
walks  two  days  (fifty  miles)  along  its  bank  to  the  S.W,, 
one  day  (twenty-five  miles)  to  the  N.W.,  and  then  finds 
the  lake  a  river  coming  from  the  N.N.E.  We  were 
obliged  to  be  content  with  hearsay,  and  so  must  you  for 
the  present. 

*  During  the  expedition  some  of  our  day's  journeys  were 


202  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

short  enough,  often  not  more  than  ten  miles  ;  but  the 
work  was  nevertheless  hard  from  the  thickness  of  the 
jungle  and  the  heavy  sand.  In  one  five  and  a  half  mile 
stage  upwards  of  a  hundred  trees  were  cut  down,  from 
the  size  of  7ny  arm  to  that  of  a  blacksmith's — the  distance 
took  six  hours  and  a  half  to  accomplish.  Another  heavy 
sand-rise  thickly  covered  with  bush,  of  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  extent,  kept  us  for  two  hours.  I  was  on  this  occa- 
sion just  ahead  of  the  wagon  trying  to  find  the  most  prac- 
ticable line,  and  very  often  could  see  nothing  but  the  fore 
oxen's  heads,  and  knew  not  by  "sight  where  the  vehicle 
might  be,  till  all  at  once  I  would  behold  it  tearing  its  way 
through  the  thicket.  A  small  dwarf  thorn -bush  also 
caused  us  no  inconsiderable  annoyance,  tearing  the  noses 
and  legs  of  the  oxen,  and  preventing  them  from  pulling 
together. 

*  The  Noka  a  Batlatli,  Noka  a  Mampoore,  Ngami, 
Inghabe  (for  it  has  all  these  names),  is  situated  in  20°  ig' 
S.  lat.,  and  about  24°  E.  long.,  at  an  elevation  above  the 
sea  of  2,825  fset.  The  latitude  you  may  consider  correct. 
The  longitude,  in  consequence  of  our  having  no  watch 
that  would  go,  is  merel}^  worked  out  by  courses  and 
distances.  The  height  is  an  approximation  only,  as 
ascertained  by  one  of  Newman's  barometric  thermo- 
meters. 

'  The  distance  traversed  from  Kolobeng  was  six  hundred 
and  three  miles,  measured  by  a  good  trocheameter.  Kolo- 
beng is  about  five  hundred  and  seventy  miles  from  Coles- 
berg,  or  nine  hundred  from  Algoa  Bay.  Now  that  we 
know  the  "short  cuts,"  we  might  perhaps  make  the 
journey  in  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  direct  course 
would  be  N.W.  from  Kolobeng,  but  there  is  no  water  for 
a  wagon  ;  men  walk  it  after  rains. 

'  The  Batouani  have  no  communication  with  the 
Portuguese.  The  only  other  large  tribe  on  the  Lake,  of 
which  I  learnt  the  name,  was  the  Maclumma,  of  Damara 


Route  in  1849 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  203 

descent,  I  fancy.  Sebitoane  is  said  to  live  on  one  of  the 
tributaries  of  the  Tamunakle,  which  flows  into  the  Zouga. 
His  country  is  called  that  of  "large  trees,"  or  "many 
waters."  He  has  communication  with  the  Portuguese ; 
but  through  another  tribe,  not  direct.  Don't  you  envy 
me  my  trip  in  perspective  ?  The  tsetse  is  spoken  of  in 
particular  spots ;  but  as  the  chief  is  a  kind  of  Moselekatse 
of  the  west,  and  very  rich  in  oxen,  it  cannot,  I  should 
suppose,  be  spread  over  any  large  tract. 

'  A  few  words  on  the  Zouga,  its  inhabitants,  etc.,  etc., 
and  I  have  finished.  Its  course  is,  as  you  see,  at  first 
nearly  E.,  then  S.,  S.E.,  N.E.,  and  E.N.E.  From  two 
or  three  da3^s  from  the  Lake  it  is  broad,  varying  from 
two  hundred  to  five  hundred  yards,  with  flat  and  rather 
swampy  shores.  It  then  narrows,  and  flows  through 
high  banks  of  limestone  for  six  days — again  opens  out, 
and  at  its  most  southern  point  spreads  into  a  little 
lake  four  miles  or  so  across  ;  then  divides  into  two 
streams,  one  of  which  (the  most  southerly)  is  said  to 
lose  itself  in  the  saltpans  to  the  eastward,  while  by 
far  the  largest  branch,  on  the  authority  of  the  natives, 
runs  away  N.E.  and  E.N.E.  through  the  country  of  the 
Matabele.  I  should  mention  that  all  this  part  of  the 
banks  of  the  river,  so  far  as  we  saw  it,  is  excessively 
thickly  edged  with  high  reeds,  and  bears  evident  marks 
of  inundations.  May  it  not  take  a  bend  S.E.  and  unite 
with  the  Limpopo  ?  For  the  first  ten  days  the  banks  are 
very  picturesque,  the  trees  (most  of  them  unknown  to 
the  Bakuains)  magnificent,  for  Africa ;  indeed  the  mochu- 
chong,  one  bearing  an  edible  fruit,  would  be  a  fine 
specimen  of  arboreal  beauty  in  any  part  of  the  world. 
Three  enormous  morlwanahs  grow  near  the  town  of  the 
Batouani :  the  largest  is  upwards  of  seventy  feet  in  girth  ; 
but  the}^  are  not  common.  The  palmyra  is  scattered  here 
and  there  amongst  the  islands,  and  on  the  banks  of  the 
Zouga,  and  is  abundant  along  the  Mokokoong  (the  sand 


204  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

river  of  the  desert).  In  appearance  it  is  exactly  the  same 
as  our  Indian  ones,  but  bears  a  smaller  fruit.  I  have 
brought  some  down  with  me.  A  tree  very  like  the  smaller 
banian  of  India  grows  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The 
natives  said  it  had,  occasionally,  "drops";  but  I  did  not 
see  any.  It  would  seem,  however,  to  have  some  kindred 
affinity  to  the  Indian  one ;  for  in  cases  where  a  branch 
had  been  taken  and  bent  downwards,  I  noticed  that  it 
had  frequently  shot  up  again.  Wild  indigo  is  abundant 
in  places.  The  Makalakka  or  Mashuna  (I  think  them  to 
be  the  same)  do  really  make  cloth,  and  dye  it  with  this 
blue.  Don't  you  remember  our  being  very  sceptical  on 
this  point  ?  They  use  the  cotton  of  two  kinds  of  bushes 
and  one  tree — the  latter  is  of  inferior  quality.  The 
Bakoba  are  the  principal  dwellers  on  the  islands  and 
banks  of  the  river,  though  there  are  a  few  scattered  Bush- 
men and  Baharootzi  kraals  towards  the  lower  end,  where 
we  struck  it.  The  word  Bakoba  means  slave,  and  is 
only  applied  to  them  by  others,  they  styling  themselves 
Bayeiye,  that  is  pre-eminently  men.  They  are  fine  in- 
telligent fellows,  much  darker  and  larger  than,  and  in 
every  respect  superior  to,  the  Bechuanas.  Their  language 
is  distinct,  with  a  click ;  but  not  Bush.  They  must  come 
from  the  Damara  side  I  fancy.  They  are  not  by  any 
means  confined  to  the  river  Zouga,  but  "  fish  and  float," 
as  Livingstone's  letter  says,  in  all  the  neighbouring 
waters.  Their  canoes  are  but  roughly  fashioned  out  of 
whole  trees,  and,  so  that  one  end  can  be  made  to  counter- 
balance the  other,  they  do  not  care  whether  they  are 
straight  or  not.  Many  of  them  are  quite  crooked. 
Paddling  and  punting  are  their  only  means  of  progres- 
sion ;  sailing  is  unknown.  They  live  chiefly  on  fish  (that 
abomination  of  the  southern  Bechuanas),  which  they 
catch  with  very  neatly  made  nets,  manufactured  from  a 
species  of  wild  flax.  Their  float-ropes  are  made  of  a  flag, 
and  the  small  floats  on  the  nets  of  a  kind  of  reed  with 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  205 

joints,  so  that,  although  one  may  become  saturated,  the 
others  still  remain  buoyant.  I  have  pieces  of  rope,  net, 
twine,  hemp  or  flax,  which  you  shall  see  some  day.  To 
prevent  their  rotting,  the  nets  are  dyed  with  a  tan  prepared 
from  the  bark  of  the  camel-thorn.  The  Baharootzi  have 
no  canoes  or  nets,  but  spear  fish  with  the  assegai,  standing 
on  rafts  made  of  bundles  of  reed  tied  together.  The  fish 
are  in  great  abundance,  and  of  immense  size,  our  old 
Limpopo  flathead  among  the  number.  The  Baharootzi, 
Bakoba  and  Bushmen  have  also  another  way  of  providing 
themselves  with  food,  hardly  so  unobjectionable  in  my 
eyes.  From  end  to  end  the  banks  of  the  Zouga  are  lined 
with  pit-falls.  Eleven  of  our  horses  fell  in — one  only  died 
however  ;  but  two  of  the  oxen  managed  to  bury  themselves 
— fortunately  we  had  a  few  spare  ones.  We  ourselves 
were  all  caught — the  trader  twice  or  thrice  in  the  morning 
whilst  searching  for  and  opening  the  holes  to  prevent 
mishaps  amongst  the  cattle.  They  are  most  artfully  con- 
cealed ;  loose  sand  is  sometimes  thrown  over  the  covering 
reeds  and  grass,  and  the  impressions  of  animals'  feet, 
together  with  their  dung,  placed  on  the  top.  They  make 
the  game  very  wild.  One  animal  falls  in  and  alarms  the 
whole  herd.  They  retreat  far  off,  and  only  return  again 
to  drink,  and  flee.  From  the  elephant  to  the  steinbuck 
nothing  escapes. 

'  We  had  hard  work  enough  without  much  hunting ; 
but  I  have  killed  some  fine  bull  elephants.  These  and 
buffaloes  are  abundant  —  rhinoceroses  and  other  game 
(except  in  one  or  two  particular  spots)  very  scarce. 
Hippopotami  are  so  hunted  by  the  Bakoba,  that  they 
hardly  ever  show  themselves.  The  elephants  are  a 
distinct  variety  from  the  Limpopo  ones ;  much  lower  and 
smaller  in  body  (ten  feet  is  a  large  bull)  but  with  capital 
tusks.  I  saw  two  quebabas  (straight-horned  rhinoceroses) 
and  wounded  one,  but  did  not  bag  him.  Eight  or 
nine  leche  fell.     Piet   (m)'  wagon  driver)   shot  the  first, 


2o6 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


Livingstone  the  second,  Murray  the  third.      The  horns 
of   the  leche  are  very  much  the  same  as  a  male  water- 


habits  are  precisely 


buck's,  and  his 
other    species 
the    natives — 
the    koodoo 
smaller  —  the 
Lions  are  very 
and  by  the  lake 
them    but     once, 
used     occasionally 
loose  at  night.    The 
my  horse  fell  into  the 
found  there  were  such 
rolled  one  over,  and  I 
gracefully    it     must     be 
had  we   been 
to  our  honour, 


HEAD 


similar.    Two 
mentioned  by 
I     something    of 
lighter    and 
to     be     seen, 
along  the  river 
never     heard 
and  at  one  time 
to  let  our  oxen  run 
day,   however,  that 
pitfall  and   died,  we 
things.       The     trader 
the    other,    rather    dis- 
allowed, from  a  tree  ;  but 
particular    as 
we    might   as 


LECHE. 


well  have  left  them  alone,  for  we  could  never  have  seen 
them  for  the  bush.  I  slew  two  others,  and  this  was  the 
whole  of  the  bag,  though  I  never  missed  but  one  chance, 
and  that  was  from  being  greedy  and  trying  to  make  too 
sure.  The  only  thing  like  an  escape  I  had  was  with  the 
first.  We  had  lost  the  road  coming  into  Kolobeng,  and, 
cantering  along  through  some  rocky  hills  to  look  for  it,  I 
heard  a  grunt  behind  me,  and,  turning  round,  saw  a  lion 
within  eight  yards  of  me  in  full  chase,  head  and  tail  up. 
My  old  hat,  torn  off  by  a  tree,  and  a  shot  fired  Parthian- 
wise  satisfied  him  till  I  had  got  fifty  yards  ahead.  I  then 
jumped  off,  with  the  intention  of  loading  the  empty 
barrel,  and  bringing  my  friend  to  account.  My  foot  was 
not  clear  of  the  stirrup  when  he  was  on  me.  This  time  I 
was  on  the  look-out  for  him,  and  a  lucky  shot  dropped 
him  amongst  some  low  bushes  and  masses  of  rock,  about 
fifteen  or  twenty  yards  from  where  I  stood. 

'  There  is  now  a  great  point  to  be  ascertained,  namely, 
whether  it  be  not  possible  to  reach  the  Portuguese  settle- 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  207 

ments  on  the  Zambezi  by  an  overland  route.  I  hope  to 
do  something  towards  elucidating  this,  and  have  therefore 
made  up  my  mind  to  leave  Cape  Town  towards  the  close 
of  the  present  month.  I  have  letters  of  introduction  to 
the  Portuguese  authorities  should  I  happen  to  fall  in  with 
them,  and  anticipate  no  danger  from  the  natives.  We 
shall  not,  in  all  probability,  reach  the  stations  on  the 
Zambezi,  but  we  may  be  able  to  prove  the  possibility  of 
subsequent  travellers  doing  so.  Livingstone  will  accom- 
pany me.' 

With  affectionate  promptitude  Vardon  set  about  reply- 
ing to  this  letter  the  instant  he  had  finished  reading  it : 

'  33,  Oxford  Terrace, 
'  Hyde  Park, 

^  March  27,  1850. 
'  My  dear  Oswell, 
' .  .  .  Your  long  and  welcome  epistle  has  gladdened  my 
eyes.  Your  good  uncle  sent  me  the  enclosed  last  night  and 
I  have  run  up  to  Galton's  with  it  to  hand  it  over  to  him- 
self in  propria  persona.  I  shall  take  care  you  have  your 
due  share  of  fame  in  this  part  of  the  world,  and  will  put 
pen  to  paper  for  you  if  need  be,  and  see  that  you  stand 
right  with  the  Geographical  Society,  of  which,  were  I  you, 
I  would  certainly  become  a  member.  Steele,  I  see,  has 
just  been  proposed  as  a  candidate.  I  have  attended  two 
meetings.  .  .  .  On  the  8th  of  April  we  are  to  have  a 
South  African  night  again.  I  shall  certainly  go,  and  shall 
perhaps  say  some  few  words  for  you.  I  direct  this  to  you 
at  Kolobeng,  but  when  Galton  gets  there  I  suppose  you 
will  be  on  the  Zambesi  drinking  coffee  with  the  Portu- 
guese Governor  !  !  Mind  the  fever,  that's  all !  I  hear  the 
coast  there  is  very  unhealthy  indeed.  ...  I  hope  soon 
to  see  the  skin  and  horns  of  a  liche  .  .  .  That  passage 
over  the  Kalahari  is  an  awful  affair  apparently.  Couldn't 
men  go  in  advance  to  dig  out  the  sand-holes,  so  that  water 


2o8  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

would  be  ready  when  the  oxen  arrived  ?  Now  that  you 
have  pioneered  the  way  it  will  be  much  easier  for  those 
that  follow.  Would  that  I  could  again  try  the  veldt  with 
you  !  .  .  .  It  was  too  bad  of  that  old  fellow  Macqueen 
saying  that  Parker  had  reached  the  Lake,  and  now  he 
tells  us  that  the  Boers  have  followed  the  Limpopo  to 
the  sea  !  And  so  it  is  with  everything  else.  If  you  were 
to  discover  an  enormous  range  of  snowy  mountains  he 
would  be  sure  to  declare  he  knew  of  them  years  ago. 
This  is  so  unfair  and  ungenerous,  that  I  cannot  bear  it.  I 
like  to  see  all  men  reap  the  benefit  of  their  labours,  and  so 
no  doubt  do  you.  Can  I  do  anything  for  you  in  England? 
What  can  I  send  out  to  Livingstone  ?  I  shall  be  so  glad 
to  give  him  anything  he  wants.  Would  he  like  any 
medical  books,  do  you  think  ?  Try  and  find  out,  there's 
a  good  fellow,  and  tell  me,  when  you  write.  I  believe  he 
does  know  something  of  surgery,  so  he  can  name  what 
sort  of  books  he  wants  and  I  will  get  them.  I  jog  on  in 
the  old  way  at  No.  33,  heartily  sick  of  England,  and  dream- 
ing of  South  Africa  almost  every  night.  I  have  two  lovely 
rifles,  and  hope  to  lay  low  some  specimens  of  various 
Indian  fauna  when  I  rejoin  the  gallant  25th  next  cold 
weather.  The  Times'  City  article,  6th  of  March,  tells  us 
there  are  no  hippopotami  or  crocodiles  in  the  Lake  !  Such 
nonsense  has  got  abroad  about  it,  you  have  no  idea.  I 
placed  on  record  your  discovery  as  fairly  as  I  could  the 
moment  I  saw  it  dimly  alluded  to  and  doubted  by  the 
AthencEim.  I  must  send  you  a  copy  if  I  can,  merely  a 
few  lines,  but  quite  enough.  I  couldn't  write  more  as  I 
had  not  heard  from  you,  but  I  determined  to  put  the 
saddle  on  the  right  horse.  I  shall  see  Steele  and  have  a 
chat  with  him  over  your  letter.  Once  more  farewell,  and 
God  bless  you.  My  Mother  and  all  my  Brothers  desire 
their  kind  regards  and  best  wishes, 

'  Affectionately  yours. 

*  Your  letter  has  made  me  quite  a  different  man  !' 


VOL.  I. 


14 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  211 

Whilst  the  travellers  were  at  the  Ngami  an  incident 
occurred  which  united  Oswell  still  more  closely  to  his 
henchman  John  : 

*  Before  starting  on  the  expedition,  we  had  held  out 
to  our  followers  that  if  we  were  successful  we  would 
not  attempt  to  press  on  further.  They  were,  as  a  rule, 
a  timid  folk,  dreading  the  unknown,  too  ready  to  listen 
to  any  tale  of  danger  and  difficulty  that  might  be 
in  the  world  beyond,  and  always  eager  to  turn  Colony- 
wards.  Success,  however,  inevitably  bred  a  wish  to  do 
more,  but  we  were  of  course  bound  to  stand  to  our  agree- 
ment. At  last,  the  desire  of  penetrating  deeper  into  the 
land  became  so  strong  that  I  suggested  calling  a  meeting 
of  the  servants  and  trying  what  our  eloquence  might 
effect.  After  putting  before  them  that  w^e  fully  recognised 
our  promise  of  not  constraining  them  to  go  with  us  any 
further,  I  told  them  that  the  Doctor  and  I  had  made  up 
our  minds  to  give  them  one  of  the  wagons  with  sufficient 
stores,  supplies  and  ammunition  for  their  homeward  journey, 
while  we  ourselves  had  decided  to  push  on  ahead.  I  further 
explained  to  them  that  they  would  have  no  difficulty  in 
reaching  the  Colony  as  they  knew  the  waters  and  had  the 
wheel-tracks.  I  paused  for  a  moment,  and  then  added 
that  though  we  could  not  ask  them  to  accompany  us, 
yet  if  any  one  of  them  was  willing  to  do  so,  we  should 
be  very  glad.  I  rather  enlarged  upon  our  ignorance  of 
the  country  in  advance,  for  we  did  not  wish  to  influence 
them  unduly  to  join  us.  For  a  few  minutes  there  was 
silence  and  blankness  of  face  ;  then  out  stepped  John,  and 
speaking  in  Dutch,  as  he  always  did  when  his  feelings 
were  touched,  though  he  at  other  times  spoke  English  per- 
fectly, said,  "  What  you  eat,  I  can  eat ;  where  you  sleep, 
I  can  sleep ;  where  you  go,  I  will  go  ;  I  will  come  with 
you."  The  effect  was  instantaneous.  "  We  will  all  go !"  was 
the  cry.  Do  you  think  after  that  it  was  much  matter  to 
us  whether  our  brother  was  black  or  white  ?' 

14 — 2 


212  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

They  had  reached  the  lake  by  following  the  course  of 
the  Zouga  on  its  southern  bank,  and  proposed  now  to 
cross  over  and  make  their  way  to  the  great  Sebitoane, 
visiting  on  the  road  the  chief  of  the  tribe  living  on  the 
northern  bank.  He  however  showed  a  passive  hostility 
by  keeping  all  his  men  with  their  boats  on  that  side. 
Thereupon,  writes  Livingstone  to  Captain  Steele : 

'  I  endeavoured  to  construct  a  raft  to  pass  over  where  the 
river  was  only  fifty  or  sixty  yards  wide,  but  the  wood  was 
so  heavy  that  it  sank  immediately.  Another  effort  was 
equally  fruitless,  and  though  I  could  easily  have  swum  over, 
the  landing  in  a  state  of  nudity,  as  I  must  have  done,  to 
obtain  the  loan  of  a  boat  from  the  Bakoba,  would  have 
been  scarcely  a  becoming  appearance  for  a  minister  of 
peace,  setting  aside  the  risk  of  an  alligator  meeting  me  on 
the  journey.  I  did  not  like  to  give  up  the  attempt,  but 
was  finally  dissuaded  from  it  by  my  kind  friend,  Mr.  Oswell, 
with  whom  alone  the  visit  to  Sebitoane  was  to  be  made, 
and  who  settled  the  matter  by  nobly  offering  to  bring  up 
a  boat  next  year  at  his  own  expense,  from  the  Cape,  which, 
after  visiting  the  Chief  and  coming  round  the  north  end 
of  the  Lake,  is  to  become  missionary  property.  To  him 
and  my  other  companion,  Mr.  Murray,  I  cannot  suffi- 
ciently express  my  obligations.  The  chief  expenses  of 
the  expedition  have  been  borne  by  them.' 

Speaking  elsewhere  of  this  journey,  he  says  : 

'  I  believe  Mr.  Oswell  came  from  his  high  position  at  a 
very  considerable  pecuniary  sacrifice  with  no  other  end  in 
view  than  to  extend  the  boundaries  of  geographical  know- 
ledge. .  .  .  He  undertook  to  defray  the  entire  expense 
of  the  guides,  and  fully  executed  his  generous  intention.' 

On  the  shores  of  the  lake  there  existed  a  gigantic  long- 
horned  breed  of  oxen  which  had  been  stolen  in  a  raid 


AFRICA:  THIRD  EXPEDITION  213 

from  the  Ba-Wangketsi  in  1819.  They  were  originally 
remarkable  for  their  heads,  but  in  four  or  five  generations, 
from  feeding  on  the  siliceous-coated  reeds  and  succulent 
grasses  that  grew  near  the  water,  had  developed  to  an 
astonishing  extent  in  horns  and  height.  Oswell  purchased 
one  which,  though  not  three  years  old,  stood  eighteen  hands 
two  inches,  and  measured  from  tip  to  tip  of  the  horns  eight 
feet  eight  inches,  and  thirteen  feet  seven  inches  round  from 
one  point  to  the  other,  taking  in  the  base  of  the  skull. 
He  hoped  to  bring  it  home  alive  and  present  it  to  the 
Zoological  Gardens,  but  the  difficulties  in  the  way  were  too 
great.  In  many  places  the  path  cleared  for  the  wagons 
through  the  bush  on  the  journey  up  had  to  be  widened 
for  it  to  pass,  and  when  the  lake  and  the  Zouga  had  been 
left  behind,  the  grass  grew  so  short  that  the  poor  beast 
could  not  feed,  its  horns  coming  to  the  ground  before 
its  nose  ;  it  was  practically  impossible  to  cut  a  sufficient 
quantity,  and  at  last,  at  the  end  of  eight  hundred  miles,  it 
became  necessary  to  shoot  it.  The  extraordinary  head 
was  preserved. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

AFRICA. 

1850.       AGE    31-32. 

FOURTH  EXPEDITION  (UN ACCOMPANIED).— EXPLORATION 
OF  RIVER  ZOUGA.— SECOND   VISIT  TO  LAKE  NGAMI. 

Takes  boat  to  Kolobeng — Livingstone  already  started — Meet- 
ing on  Zouga  —  Impossible  to  obtain  guides — Visit  to 
Sebitoane  deferred — Peerless  sport — Native  dogs  outwitting 
alligators — Gemsbok,  remarkable  horns — Nakong,  swamp- 
shoe — Lead  runs  short — Mr.  Webb's  courtesy — Sir  Harry 
Smith  suggests  negotiations  with  Ngami  tribes — Narrow 
escape  from  wounded  bull — '  Night-elephants.' 

True  to  his  promise,  Oswell  purchased  the  boat,  and  at 
the  beginning  of  the  next  hunting  season  left  the  Cape  to 
join  Livingstone  and  carry  out  with  him  the  programme 
arranged  between  them  five  or  six  months  previously. 
But  on  reaching  Kolobeng  he  found  the  heat  and  drought 
had  warped  and  injured  the  boat  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
render  it  impossible  to  launch  it  in  a  serviceable  condition 
on  the  inland  waters  ;  and  that  the  Doctor,  unable  to  resist 
the  desire  and  opportunity  of  being  the  first  to  visit  Sebi- 
toane, had  started  a  month  before.  There  was  no  chance 
of  overtaking  him  ;  he  resolved  therefore  to  shape  his 
course  towards  the  Zouga — the  river  they  had  discovered 
in  the  previous  year — and  shooting  at  his  leisure  along  its 
banks,  ultimately,  if  he  could  obtain  guides  and  an  inter- 
preter, bore  his  w^ay  through  to  the  chief.  He  followed 
the  south  bank  on  his  way  up  to  the  Ngami,  and  then, 
passing  round  the  lake,  returned  by  the  north. 


AFRICA:  FOURTH  EXPEDITION  215 

After  seven  or  eight  weeks'  sport,  hearing  that  Living- 
stone and  his  party  were  within  fifty  or  sixty  miles  of  him, 
he  hastened  to  them,  and  escorted  them  on  their  home- 
ward way  as  long  as  he  could  be  useful  to  them.  '  Met 
Oswell,'  writes  Livingstone;  'he  brought  supplies  for  us 
from  the  Colony,  and  returned  a  bill  for  £"40  which  was  to 
be  spent  on  purchasing  them.' 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  his  Cousin,  Miss  Louisa  Cotton. 

'  Banks  of  the  Zouga. 

'  .  .  .  I  rode  to  meet  Livingstone,  who  was  returning, 
having  given  up  all  hopes  of  proceeding  further  at  that 
time.  He  had,  perhaps  rather  unwisely,  taken  with  him 
his  wife  and  children,  and  the  latter  together  with  many 
of  his  camp-followers,  had  been  attacked  with  fever.  He 
told  me  that  he  did  not  believe  I  should  be  able  to  obtain 
guides  as  the  Ba-Towana,  from  whom  I  hoped  to  procure 
them,  were  afraid  that  Sebitoane  might  take  offence  at  their 
showing  the  white  man  the  way  through  his  dominions, 
and  as  he  is  a  chief  of  great  power  they  were  unwilling 
to  anger  him.  This  I  found  to  be  the  case,  for  later, 
messengers  came  from  them  telling  me  that  some  of  his 
people  had  arrived  there  with  orders  from  their  captain  not 
to  return  without  seeing  a  makooa  or  white  man.  I  was 
not  above  a  hundred  miles  from  the  Ba-Towana  when  the 
news  reached  me ;  inspanning,  therefore,  at  once,  I  rode 
thither  in  four  or  five  days.  I  was  at  first  in  great  hopes 
that  these  men  would  show  me  the  way  themselves,  but 
they  asserted,  whether  truly  or  only  awed  into  saying  so 
by  the  Ba-Towana,  that  their  chief  wished  to  hear  their 
report  of  the  white  man  before  seeing  him.  I  remained 
three  or  four  days  with  them,  but  the  same  story  was  per- 
severed in  throughout,  and  finding  it  useless  to  tarry  longer, 
I,  through  them,  sent  a  present  to  Sebitoane,  bidding  them 
tell  him  that  I  should  attempt  to  reach  him  after  the  lapse 
of  six  moons.     Without  guides  the  road  would  be  im- 


2l6 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


practicable 
horseback, 
you  had 
not  find 
(the  fly  so 
is  abundant, 
to  escape  the 
without  an 
on  Living- 
Hkely  to  be 
understand, 
probability 
as  a  spy.  I 
hunter  asfain.' 


for   wagons   and  oxen, 

as  in  particular  spots, 

someone   to   tell  you 

out    until    too    late, 

destructive  to  horses 

and  even  if  I  were 

tsetse      and     find 

interpreter  —  I 

stone  for  this — 

able     to    make 

and      should 

have       been 

was        thus 


or    even    on 

which  unless 

you       would 

the    tsetse 

and      cattle) 

luckyenough 

the       road, 

had   counted 

I  was  hardly 

Seb  i  t o  an  e 

then      in     all 

looked     upon 

forced  to  turn 


Game     was     W\       incredibly 
sport  peerless,      »;|      and       he 
joyed    himself.      »!         The 
with   alligators,      ij^i     and      it 
amusement      to      W\,     him  to 
dogs    outwitting      t'.     them. 


abundant,      the 

thoroughly     en- 

Zouga    swarmed 

was    a    constant 

watch   the   native 


'Three  or  four,' 
to     cross,     either 
their    friends     on 
though  alligator  is 
dog  is  not  so  fond 
bling  on  the  banks, 
ing    violently,    a 
stream,  in  full  view ; 
of    barking,    yelping 
pull  up  in  the  middle 
the  top  of  their  speed, 
of   sight    on    a   lower 
had  started  from,  and 
and  swim  across,  thus 


writes,  'would  wish 

better  fare,  or  to  see 

other     side;     but 

very   partial   to  dcg, 

of  alligator.     Assem- 

■        they  would  run,  bark- 

j      quarter    of  a   mile  up 

f     halt ;  join  in  a  chorus 

and    baying;    suddenly 

of  the  concert,  dash  at 

absolutely  mute,  and  cut 

level,  to  the    point    they 

then  jump  into  the  water 

selling  the  alligators,  who, 

HEAD    OF    GEMSBOK. 
Length  of  horns,  44  inches. 


r 


AFRICA:  FOURTH  EXPEDITION  219 

hungry  after  their  "course  of  bark,"  were  eagerly  ex- 
pecting their  dinner  at  the  spot  where  they  had  had  the 
largest  dose.' 

One  day,  whilst  watching  the  beasts  come  up  from 
drinking,  his  attention  was  attracted  by  the  remarkably 
fine  head  of  a  gemsbok.  He  at  once  gave  chase  on  foot, 
and  waterlogged  as  she  was,  succeeded  in  running  down 
and  shooting  her.  The  horns  proved  to  be  just  forty-four 
inches  long,  and  are,  Mr.  Selous  declares,  with  a  single 
exception,  the  largest  known.* 

At  Lakes  Kamadou  and  Ngami  he  secured  several 
specimens  of  the  nakong — the  new  antelope  seen  during 
the  expedition  of  the  previous  year. 

"-'•  He  had  an  interesting  theory  with  regard  to  this  antelope 
which  he  thus  states  :  '  In  many  of  the  Bushman  caves  the  head 
of  the  oryx  is  scratched  in  profile,  and  in  that  position  one  horn 
hides  the  other  entirely.     In  Syria,  even  up  to  the  present  day, 
I  am  told,  a  very  near  relation  of  the  Oryx  capensis  is  found.    It 
is  the  habit  of  man  in  his  hunting  stage  to  try  his  hand  at 
delineating  the  animals  he  lives  upon.     Probably  the  rocks  or 
caves  of  Syria  show,  or  formerly  may  have  shown,  glyphs  of 
the  oryx  resembling  the  work  of  the  African  Bushman,  and  an 
early  traveller  may  easily  have  taken  them  for  representations 
of  an  animal  with  one  horn  and  have  thus  started  the  idea  of 
the  unicorn,  Biblical  and  heraldic.     With  regard  to  the  former, 
the   word  in  the  Hebrew  in  our  version  rendered  unicorn  is 
reeni  ;  in  some  old  English  Bibles  indeed  reem  has  been  pre- 
served in  the  text,  untranslated.     Again,  I  am  told  that  the 
Syrian  congener  of  the  Cape  oryx  is  called  by  the  Arabs  of  to- 
day ^;  reem.     Is  it  not   likely  then  that  the  Biblical  unicorn  is 
the   same  as  the  reem  of  the  Arab  ?     As  an  heraldic  beast  the 
gemsbok  lends  himself  most  gallantly  to  the  theory  ;  he  is  a 
strongly  marked  equine  antelope,  and  is  the  one  of  his  family 
that  frequently  lowers  his  head  to  show  fight,  it  is  said  even 
with  the  lion.' 

To  the  foregoing  the  following  note  is  appended  :  '  Since 
writing  the  above  I  find  this  subject  has  been  discussed  by  the 
learned,  and  a  decision  arrived  at  unfavourable  to  the  oryx  ; 
but  I  let  my  remarks  stand,  for  I  do  not  know  that  anything 
has  been  said  on  the  glyphs  in  profile  theory.' 


220 


WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


The  abnormal  elongation  of  its 


it     to     skim     over     the 
which  other  antelopes 
of    one    which    is 
..    lonsf.   If  it  were 


'  It  is  a  veritable  swamp  liver,  about  the  size  of  a  goat, 
with  long  brownish  hair,  and  horns  resembling  those  of 
the  koodoo  in  miniature, 
hoof  enables 
morasses  into 
I  have the hoof 
four  inches 
the  animal's 
would  be  the 
the  nakong  runs 
swamp  shoe  is  a 
ing  by  flight  or 
on  being  disturbed, 
the  water,  sits  down 
all  but  the  nostrils, 
overpast.' 


surface    of 

would     sink. 

very       nearly 

in  the  ratio  of 

a     half    inches 

On  hard  ground 

difficulty — the 

Instead  of  escap- 

ment    in  the  bush 

it  makes  straight  for 

in  it,  and  submerges 

until    the    danger    be 


He  wandered  on,  III  shooting  every  day  and 
all  day  among  the  v!  teeming  herds  of  animals 
that    peopled  horns  and  hoof  of  the^   higher 

reaches     of  nakong.  theriver,when 

he     suddenly  discovered 

that  he  had  almost  run  out  of  lead.  There  was  nothing  for 
it  but  to  start  immediately  back  to  the  Cape,  husbanding 
jealously  the  small  store  that  remained. 

One  morning  he  came  unexpectedly  upon  the  wagons  of 
Mr.  Webb  of  Newstead  Abbe}^,  Captain  Shelley,  and  a 
companion  who  was  travelling  with  them  and  trading  on 
his  own  account.  Exchanging  friendly  greetings  he  held 
on  his  way  :  'for  though  I  knew  they  were  amply  provided, 
I  had  not  the  face  to  ask  them  for  metal  more  valuable 
than  gold,  in  the  middle  of  Africa.' 

Next  day,  however,  he  shot  three  elephants,  and  it 
occurred  to  him  that  he  might  barter  their  tusks  for  lead 
with  Mr.  Webb's  companion.  He  accordingly  sent 
John  on  horseback  with  a  note  to  Mr.  Webb,  asking  for 
his  mediation,  and  telling  him  that  the  bearer  would  put 


AFRICA:  FOURTH  EXPEDITION  221 

the  Kafirs  on  the  tracks  of  the  elephants.  John  overtook 
the  party  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  off,  and  came  back  to 
camp  with  his  horse  laden  with  bars  of  lead — '  a  bounti- 
ful supply,  and  the  prettiest  and  most  courteous  letter 
from  Mr.  Webb,  who  would  not  hear  of  my  buying  lead 
with  ivory.  It  was  a  most  generous  help  most  graciously 
rendered,  and  enabled  me  to  enjoy  my  homeward  march. 
Without  it  I  should  have  been  troubled  to  feed  my  fol- 
lowers for  fourteen  hundred  miles.' 

He  was  far  on  his  way  to  the  Cape  when  a  letter  was 
brought  into  camp  which,  in  view  of  the  recent  visit  of 
Khama,  Sechele  and  Bathoen  to  this  country,  and  its 
object,  has  a  very  special  interest.  Mr.  Chamberlain 
would  seem  to  be  the  avatar  of  Sir  Harry  Smith. 


'  Colonial  Office, 

'  Cape  Town, 

'July  II,  1850. 

'Sir, 

Understanding  that  you  are  now  engaged  in  a  second 
journey  to  the  Lake  discovered  by  you,  in  conjunction 
with  Messrs.  Murray  and  Livingstone,  in  August  last, 
His  Excellency  Sir  H.  Smith  has  directed  me  to  request 
your  co-operation  in  establishing  friendly  relations  with 
the  native  Chiefs  in  that  neighbourhood,  in  case  this  letter 
should  reach  you  before  you  arrive  at  the  Lake  or  while 
in  the  adjacent  territory.  Feeling  confident  that  you  will 
yourself  be  anxious  to  promote  the  objects  which  he  has  in 
view,  His  Excellency  has  directed  me  to  request  that  you 
will,  if  possible,  explain  to  the  Chiefs  that  by  establish- 
ing friendly  relations  with  this  Government,  they  will 
obtain  a  favourable  opportunity  of  disposing  of  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  interior.  They  should  also  be  made  to 
understand  that  the  Government  have  no  wish  to  acquire 
land  in  those  parts,  but  that  their  object  in  proposing  these 
arrangements    is    public,   and  designed  as  much  for  the 


222  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

benefit  of  the  Natives  themselves,  as  for  the  promotion  of 
trade  and  discovery  ;  whereas  any  body  of  private  indi- 
viduals banding  themselves  together  to  settle  among  them 
and  deprive  them  of  their  territory,  can  have  only  private 
ends  in  view,  opposed  to  the  happiness  and  interests  of 
these  Native  Tribes.  His  Excellency  is  the  more  anxious 
that  these  matters  should  be  clearly  explained  to  the 
Natives  about  the  Lake,  because  he  has  reason  to  suspect 
a  design  on  the  part  of  some  of  the  Emigrant  Boers 
North  of  the  Vaal  River  to  effect  a  settlement  on  the  shores 
of  the  Lake.  It  appears  that  a  Mr.  McCabe,  a  Trader, 
and  his  companion  Mr.  Baines,  with  their  party,  have 
been  stopped  by  the  Boers,  and  turned  back,  and  it  is 
reported,  but  not  certainly  known,  that  the  same  course 
has  been  adopted  towards  another  party  of  English 
travellers. 

'  Mr.  McCabe  conjectures  with  considerable  probability 
that  the  object  of  these  vexatious  proceedings  is  to  prevent 
the  Government  obtaining  information  of  the  proceedings 
of  a  Commando  of  five  hundred  Boers  who  were  about  to 
proceed  to  take  possession  of  the  country  near  the  Lake. 
His  Excellency  does  not  deem  it  expedient  by  force  to 
interfere  in  the  designs  of  the  Boers  in  that  distant  region, 
but  trusts  that  if  the  Natives  are  warned  in  time,  and 
induced  to  establish  friendly  relations  with  the  British 
Government,  they  may  be  able  to  resist  machinations, 
the  success  of  which  would  seriously  impede  the  progress 
of  commerce  and  Geographical  research  in  Central  Africa, 
to  which  you  have  rendered  such  signal  service  by  your 
recent  discovery. 

'  I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir, 

'  Your  most  obedient  Servant, 

'  John  Montagu, 
'  Secretary  to  Governnicnt.' 

He  was  of  course  unable  to  execute  the  behests  of  the 
Government,  or  reply  satisfactorily  to  this  letter  at  the 


AFRICA:  FOURTH  EXPEDITION  223 

time,  but  he  bore  it  in  mind,  and  answered  it  during  the 
expedition  of  the  following  year. 

Rev.  Edward  Waring  Oswell  to  W.  Cotton  Oswell. 

'  Abbey  Villa, 

'  Great  Malvern, 

^July   II,   1850. 

*  ...  I  have  just  heard  that  a  certain  Mr.  Dolman 
would  take  charge  of  a  letter  to  you  if  I  can  manage  to 
get  it  to  him  in  time,  but  as  his  ship  is  said  to  be  about 
to  sail  to-morrow,  I  only  write  on  the  chance.  ...  I 
saw  Captain  Vardon  when  I  was  in  Town,  and  hear  he  is 
to  be  married  to-day,  and  to  sail  for  India  soon  after. 
He  told  me  Mr.  Livingstone  was  not  to  accompany  you 
this  time.  This  I  am  sorry  for,  as  the  assistance  of  a 
companion  must  be  very  desirable.  .  .  .  Your  services 
seem  to  be  appreciated  by  the  Geographical  Society, 
though  I  hardly  know  whether  sufficiently  so.  We  are 
all  intensely  interested  in  the  accounts  you  send  us  of 
Africa.  .  .  .  You  may  have  plenty  to  occupy  you  now, 
as  I  make  no  doubt  your  discovery  will  lead  to  important 
results;  it  seems  to  create  general  interest.  .  .  .' 

Towards  the  end  of  this  season  Oswell  nearly  lost 
his  life  whilst  elephant-hunting.  He  thus  describes  the 
incident  : 

'  The  ground  to  our  right  with  its  sea  of  thorns  rose 
in  a  long  swell,  and  as  it  sank  into  the  little  hollows 
beyond,  five  or  six  colossal  bodiless  legs  stood  out  like 
bare  tree  stems  amongst  the  closely-woven  branches.  I 
slipped  from  my  pony,  and  crawling  on  hands  and  knees, 
got  within  twenty  yards  of  the  legs  without  being  able  to 
see  anything  more  of  the  owners.  A  large  tree  was  in 
advance,  round  whose  stem  the  thorns  did  not  press  quite 
so  pertinaciously  as  elsewhere.     Slowly  and  cautiously  I 


224  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

gained  its  side.  An  elephant  was  close  to  me,  but  though 
I  could  now  see  his  body,  he  was  stern  on.  I  broke  a 
twig  to  attract  his  attention ;  his  head  swung  half  round, 
but  was  so  guarded  by  the  bush  that  it  would  have  been 
useless  to  fire  at  it.  His  shoulder  was  more  exposed. 
There  was  no  time  to  wait,  he  was  on  the  move,  and  the 
dust  flew  from  his  side  as  the  heavy  ball  struck  him. 
Screaming  angrily,  he  turned  full  front  in  the  direction  of 
the  tree  by  which  I  stood  motionless.  I  do  not  think  he 
made  me  out,  and  the  bush  was  too  thick  for  me  to  risk 
giving  him  further  information  by  a  second  shot.  For 
a  moment  we  confronted  one  another ;  and  then  the 
rumbling  note  of  alarm  uttered  by  his  companions  de- 
cided him  on  joining  them,  and  the  stiff  thorns  bent  before 
the  weight  of  seven  or  eight  bulls,  like  a  cornfield  in  the 
wind.  I  regained  the  path  and  rode  along  the  line  of 
their  retreat,  which,  as  shown  by  the  yielding  bush,  was 
parallel  to  it.  After  a  time  the  thorns  thinned  out  and  I 
caught  sight  of  the  wounded  elephant  holding  a  course  of 
his  own  a  little  to  the  left  of  his  fellows ;  and  when  he 
entered  the  tropical  forest  beyond  I  was  in  his  wake  and 
very  soon  compelled  to  follow  where  he  broke  a  way. 
Lying  flat  on  my  pony's  neck,  and  guiding  him  as  I  best 
might  by  occasional  glimpses  of  the  tail  of  my  now 
slowly- retreating  pioneer,  I  laboured  on  in  the  hope  that 
more  open  ground  might  enable  me  to  get  up  alongside 
of  him.  A  most  unpleasant  ride  it  was  ;  my  constrained 
position  gave  me  but  little  chance  of  using  my  hands  to 
save  my  head ;  I  was  at  one  time  nearly  pulled  from  the 
saddle  by  the  heavy  boughs  and  at  another  nearly  torn  to 
pieces  by  the  wicked  thorns  of  the  wait-a-bit,  which 
although  no  longer  the  tree  of  the  jungle,  was  intolerably 
scattered  through  it.  I  have  killed  elephants  on  very  bad 
ground,  but  this  was  the  worst  piece  of  bush  I  ever  rode 
into  in  my  life.  A  little  extra  noise  from  the  pursuers 
caused  the  pursued  to  stop ;  and  while  clinging  like 
Gilpin  to  the  calender's  horse,  and  peering  at  the  broad 


VOL.    I. 


15 


PUBi 

:  NEW  YORK 

R 

-.  N  D 
.  :■.  'IONS 
L 

AFRICA:  FOURTH  EXPEDITION  227 

stern  of  the  chase,  I  saw  him  suddenly  put  his  head  where 
his  tail  ought  to  have  been  ;  the  trunk  was  tightly  coiled 
— an  elephant  nearly  always  coils  his  trunk  in  thick  bush 
for  fear  of  pricking  it — forward  flapped  the  huge  ears,  up 
went  the  tail,  and  down  he  came  like  a  gigantic  bat  ten 
feet  across.  Pinned  above  and  on  either  side,  by  dis- 
mounting I  could  neither  hope  to  escape,  nor  kill  my 
opponent.  I  therefore  lugged  my  unfortunate  animal 
round  and  urged  him  along.  But  I  had  not  taken  into 
account  with  what  great  difficulties  and  how  slowly  I  had 
followed  the  bull.  He  was  now  in  full  charge,  and  the 
small  trees  and  bush  gave  way  before  him  like  reeds, 
whereas  I  was  compelled  to  keep  my  head  lowered  as 
before,  and  try  and  hold  the  path,  such  as  it  was,  up 
which  we  had  come.  I  was  well  mounted  and  my  spurs 
were  sharp.  Battered  and  torn  by  branch  and  thorn,  I  yet 
managed  a  kind  of  gallop,  but  it  was  impossible  to  keep 
it  up.  The  elephant  thundered  straight  through  obstacles 
we  were  obliged  to  go  round,  and  in  fifty  yards  we  were 
fast  in  a  thick  bush  and  he  within  fifteen  of  us.  As  a  last 
chance  I  tried  to  get  off,  but  in  rolling  round  in  my 
saddle  my  spur  galled  the  pony's  flank,  and  the  elephant 
screaming  over  him  at  the  same  moment,  he  made  a  con- 
vulsive effort  and  freed  himself,  depositing  me  in  a  sitting 
position  immediately  in  front  of  the  uplifted  forefoot  of 
the  charging  bull.  So  near  was  it  that  I  mechanically 
opened  my  knees  to  allow  him  to  put  it  down,  and 
throwing  myself  back,  crossed  my  hands  upon  my  chest, 
obstinately  puffing  myself  out  with  the  idea  of  trying  to 
resist  the  gigantic  tread,  or  at  all  events  of  being  as 
troublesome  to  crush  as  possible.  I  saw  the  burly  brute 
from  chest  to  tail  as  he  passed  directly  over  me  length- 
ways, one  foot  between  my  knees  and  one  fourteen 
inches  beyond  my  head,  and  not  a  graze  !  Five  tons  at 
least  !  As  he  turned  from  chasing  the  pony,  which 
without  my  weight  and  left  to  its  own  instinct  escaped 
easily  to  my  after-rider's  horse,  he  swept  by  me  on  his 

15—2 


228  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

way  to  rejoin  his  companions,  and  I  got  another  snapshot 
at  his  shoulder.  As  soon  as  I  could  I  followed  his  spoor, 
but  must  have  changed  it  in  the  thick  bush,  for  in  five 
minutes  I  had  run  into  and  killed  a  fresh  elephant  in  a 
small  open  space.  The  Bushmen  found  the  first,  next 
morning,  dead.  Out  of  all  my  narrow  escapes  this  is  the 
only  one  that  remained  with  me  in  recollection  for  any 
time.  On  four  or  five  other  occasions  I  was  half  or 
wholly  stunned,  and  therefore  not  very  clear  about  my 
sensations  ;  but  on  this  I  was  well  aware  of  what  was 
going  on  and  over  me.  One  hears  of  night-mares — well, 
for  a  month  or  more,  I  dare  say,  I  had  night-elephants  !' 


CHAPTER  IX. 

AFRICA. 

185I-1852.       AGE    32-34. 

FIFTH  EXPEDITION  (WITH  LIVINGSTONE).^VISIT  TO 

SEBITOANE. -DISCOVERY  OF  RIVERS  MABABE, 

SOUTA,  CHOBE,  AND  ZAMBESI. 

Object  of  expedition — Arrival  at  Kolobeng — Livingstone  and 
party  doubtful  starters — Oswell  gives  them  wagon,  and 
precedes  to  dig  wells — Adventure  with  a  lioness — Notes 
en  route  from  Livingstone's  journal — His  views  on  the 
drink  question — Discovery  of  Mababe,  Souta  and  Chobe — 
Sebitoane  reached — A  royal  reception — An  all-night  sit- 
ting—  The  chief  tells  his  life-story  ;  wars,  cannibalism, 
slave-trade — He  dies  suddenly — Livingstone's  lament — 
Discovery  of  Zambesi,  '  a  most  important  point ' — British 
commerce  to  oust  slave-trade — Return  journey — Is  it  right 
to  accept  stolen  cattle  ?— The  general  rights  and  duties  of 
missionaries — Oswell  replies  to  Sir  Harry  Smith's  despatch 
— His  testimony  to  Mrs.  Livingstone  ;  '  David,  put  it  out ' 
— Letter  from  Vardon ;  Gordon  Cumming's  exhibition  ; 
leche  skin  sent  to  British  Museum  ;  '  a  fearful  extinguisher 
on  Mr.  Parker' — Oswell's  sketch-map  and  notes  of  country 
traversed — He  orders  outfit  for  Livingstone  family- — '  The 
best  friend  we  had  in  Africa  '■ — -His  brother  advises  him  to 
claim  share  of  credit  of  expedition — Livingstone's  gratitude 
— John  accompanies  his  master  to  England, 

At  the  beginning  of  1851  Oswell  left  the  Cape  for  the 
interior,  for  the  fifth  and  last  time. 


230  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 


To  his  Cousin,  Miss  Louisa  Cotton. 

'  MOTITO, 

'April  4,  1 85 1. 

' .  .  .  Before  this  I  should  suppose  that  my  letters  to 
Edward  must  have  reached  their  destination,  and  you  will 
by  them  learn  that  our  last  year's  expedition  was  a  failure 
so  far  as  doing  what  we  intended  is  concerned,  and  that 
I  have  in  consequence  determined  to  attempt  it  again, 
throwing  up  my  Indian  appointment.  Had  I  believed 
that  I  could  have  flourished  or  even  done  my  work  there 
effectively,  I  should  have  returned.  On  my  arrival  at 
Kolobeng,  Mr.  Livingstone's  station,  on  my  way  Colony- 
wards,  I  found  four  or  five  men  had  also  been  sent  to 
Sechele — the  chief  of  the  Ba-Kwaina,  with  whom  he  resides 
— and  he  had  had  many  conversations  with  them  before 
I  reached,  and  gathered  much  information.  From  what 
he  learnt,  they  live  on  a  river  a  little  to  the  south  of  the 
Zambesi,  having  formerly  lived  on  that  river  itself.  On 
this  Zambesi,  as  perhaps  you  know,  the  Portuguese  have 
considerable  trading  stations.  Sebitoane  has  only  seen 
one  of  them,  who  came  seeking  slaves,  but  with  the  under 
slave-dealers  he  has  had  traffic  for  the  last  three  or  four 
years.  Without  wishing  to  appear  philanthropic  over- 
much, if  we  can  open  the  way,  via  the  interior,  to  the  slave 
country,  will  it  not  be  easier  to  put  an  end  to  that  trade 
at  the  fountain-head,  than  on  the  coast,  whither  the  poor 
wretches  have  been  brought  many  hundreds  of  miles  ?  If 
we  can  reach  the  Zambesi,  others  may  go  further,  and 
eventually,  by  persuading  the  great  Chiefs  of  the  interior 
not  to  dispose  of  their  people  or  captives  to  the  merchants 
from  the  coast,  do  something  to  end  this  sale  of  human 
beings.  Don't  misunderstand  me,  I  would  not  have  you 
think  that  such  are  the  only  motives  that  influence  me  in 
again  making  the  attempt — nothing  so  praiseworthy — I 
have  a  love  of  wandering  and  have  been  once  foiled.     I 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  231 

have  got,  so  far,  about  three  hundred  miles  from  Colesberg 
and  on  my  way  again.  Livingstone  will,  I  believe,  accom- 
pany me,  and,  should  it  please  God,  we  shall  reach  Sebi- 
toane  somehow  or  other.  The  people  are  now  willing  to 
show  us  the  path,  and  we  will  not  abandon  our  project 
without  a  struggle.  How  we  fare  you  will  hear  when  I 
return.  The  greatest  difficulty  we  shall  have  to  fight 
against  is  too  much  water — too  many  rivers !  To  reach 
our  present  point  it  has  been  against  thirst  we  have  had  to 
stand  up.     The  fly  may  also  annoy  us,  but  we  shall  see. 

'  I  have  received  no  letter  from  you  or  anyone  for  a  long 
time  .  .  .  the  accounts  of  Edward  are  good,  thank  God. 
I  was  in  hopes  Uncle  Ben  would  have  given  me  a  line. 
.  .  .  My  best  love  to  him  and  all.  Keep  my  letters  to 
yourselves.  .  .  .' 

The  hope  was  realized,  for  a  day  or  two  later  a  letter 
arrived  from  him  which  presents  incidentally,  and  quite  un- 
consciously, a  charming  picture  of  the  sense  of  responsi- 
bility and  of  the  generosity  of  the  family  : 

'  8,  Gloucester  Terrace, 

'  London,  N.W. 

' .  .  .  I  have  used  your  chart  blanc  to  apply  a  portion  of 
the  interest  of  the  money  of  yours  in  my  hands  in  favour 

of  N.  C.     He  is  settled  in  a  Curacy  at and  I  have 

engaged  to  make  up  an  mcome  for  him  of  £"200  beyond 
his  stipend,  by  contributions  among  his  family.  ...  I 
have  charged  your  account,  and  shall  do  so,  with  £"25  per 
annum.  Kitty  Clarke  contributes  £^0,  Uncle  Bowdler 
£^0,  Mary,  William  and  I,  £25  each.  .  .  .  His  sisters 
are  thus  relieved  from  giving  him  any  of  their  small  means. 
They  have  had  heavy  calls  on  them.  ...  I  did  not  ask 
Edward,  for  I  know  that  he  considers  L.  as  requiring  all 
he  can  spare.  Nothing  has  been  obtained  for  L.  He  has 
a  pupil,  and  seven  children  to  maintain.     I  shall  be  very 


232  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

glad  to  have  your  orders  to  send  him  a  present.  ...  I 
am  going  to  write  to-night  to  one  of  the  Fyvies,  and  send 
our  contributions  for  the  Pieter  Mauritzburg  church. 
.  .  .  Your  Hberahty  and  kindness  to  them  were  deeply 
felt  by  their  friends.  ...  I  am  now  looking  out  for  a 
second  theodolite  to  send  to  James  Fyvie,  who  means  to 
practise  surveying  also.  I  am  as  usual,  or  rather  heavier 
and  more  stupid.  What  think  you  of  seventeen  stone 
seven  pounds  for  horseman's  weight  ?  You  will  come  and 
see  us  I  trust  the  end  of  this  year.  Though  I  do  not 
expect  you  will  remain  in  England,  there  are  many  here 
warmly  attached  to  you.  The  Geographical  Society  sent 
me  five  copies  of  your  letter  to  Captain  Vardon,  and  of 
Mr.  Livingstone's ;  they  have  been  much  enjoyed  by 
many.  We  promised  to  let  Captain  Vardon  hear  of  your 
progress  and  welfare  ;  we  were  much  pleased  with  him. 
God  bless  you  and  let  nothing  tempt  you  to  believe  that  I 
am  not  your  loving  and  very  attached  uncle,  and  friend, 

'  Benjamin  Cotton.' 

Passing  on  his  way  northwards,  when  Oswell  reached 
Kolobeng,  he  found  that  though  the  inclination  of  the 
Livingstones  was  strongly  in  favour  of  accompanying  him, 
there  were  two  serious  obstacles  to  their  doing  so — the 
lack  of  a  wagon,  and  their  unwillingness  to  expose  their 
children  to  the  privations  entailed  by  the  scarcity  of  water 
for  the  first  three  hundred  miles  of  the  journey,  which 
experience  had  taught  them  to  expect.  He  removed  the  one 
objection  by  presenting  them  with  a  new  wagon,  and  the 
other  by  volunteering  to  precede  them  by  several  marches 
over  the  driest  part  of  the  route  and  clear  the  old  wells 
and  dig  fresh  ones.  The  offer  was  gratefully  accepted, 
and  the  Livingstones  followed  on  April  24. 

'  Mr.  Oswell,'  writes  the  Doctor  to  the  London  Mission- 
ary Society,  from  Boatlanama,  on  April  30,  '  is  unwearied 
in  his  kindnesses,  for  all  which  may  God  bless  him.' 

Meanwhile  he  had  arrived  at    Lupapi    and  dug   wells 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION 


233 


there  for  the  Livingstones.  Whilst  waiting  for  them  to 
come  up  with  him  he  had  an  adventure  which  nearly  cost 
him  his  life  : 

'  The  dogs  had  brought  a  lioness  to  bay,  and  I  got 
within  thirty  yards,  but  from  the  thickness  of  the  bush 
could  see  neither  them  nor  her.  I  shifted  my  position 
once  or  twice  in  the  hope  of  making  out  what  was  going 
on,  standing  up  in  my  stirrups  and  looking  for  an  opening, 


DROVE  HER  FRONT  CLAWS  WELL  INTO  THE  HORSE  S  QUARTERS. 


that  I  might  dismount  and  get  a  shot.  Suddenly  the 
barking  of  the  dogs  and  the  snapping  snarl  of  the  lioness 
ceased,  and  I  thought  she  had  broken  bay  and  gone  on, 
but  in  a  second  I  heard  a  roar  on  the  horse's  right  quarter, 
in  a  different  direction  from  that  into  which  I  had  been 
peering,  and  looking  round,  saw  her,  with  her  mouth  open, 
clearing  a  rather  high  patch  of  bush  twenty  yards  from 
me.  There  was  no  time  to  get  off  the  horse  and  no  pos- 
sibility of  a  shot  from  his  back,  for  the  charge  was  on  his 


234  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

right  flank,  and  you  cannot  shoot  to  the  right.  I  did  the 
only  thing  that  I  could — jammed  the  spurs  in  and  tried  to 
make  a  gallop  of  it ;  but  my  follower  was  too  close,  and 
before  I  could  get  up  full  speed  I  heard  her  strike  the 
ground  heavily  twice  in  her  bound,  and  with  the  third  she 
sat  up  behind  me.  She  jumped  short,  however,  and  failed 
to  get  hold  with  her  mouth,  but  drove  her  front  claws  well 
into  the  horse's  quarters,  and  a  hind  foot  underneath  him, 
and  so  clung,  but  only  for  a  moment,  for  the  poor  beast, 
maddened  by  fright  and  pain,  and  unable  to  stand  under  the 
extra  weight,  became  unmanageable,  threw  his  head  up, 
and  swerved  under  the  projecting  bow  of  a  tree  which, 
striking  me  on  the  chest,  swept  me  from  the  saddle  against 
the  lioness,  and  we  rolled  to  the  ground  together. 

'  A  sharp  rap  on  the  head,  from  my  having  fallen  on  a 
stump,  stunned  me  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  I  woke  to  life 
to  find  John  kneeling  alongside  of  me.  .  ,  .  "  What's  the 
matter  ?"  I  said  ;  but  at  the  same  instant  I  heard  the  dogs 
again  baying  fifty  yards  off,  and  recollection  came  back. 
Rising  to  my  feet,  I  staggered  like  a  drunken  man,  rather 
than  walked,  towards  the  sound,  and  propped  myself  up 
against  a  tree,  for  I  was  still  weak  and  dazed  ;  indistinctly 
I  could  occasionally  see  both  dogs  and  lioness.  Presently 
something  broke  through  the  thinner  part  of  the  bush, 
and  I  fired  and  wounded  one  of  the  dogs.  And  the  lioness, 
tired  by  the  protracted  worrying,  and  startled  perhaps  by 
the  sound  of  the  gun,  bounded  off,  and  escaped  without  a 
shot.' 

'Thank  God  for  preserving  his  life!'  is  Livingstone's 
comment  in  his  private  journal.  '  May  He  have  mercy 
upon  him  and  save  him  !' 

From  the  same  source  are  taken  the  following  notes  of 
the  next  stages  of  the  journey  : 

'  When  we  reached  Mashue  we  found  Oswell  waiting 
for  us.     Had  very  kindly  taken  the  trouble  to  clean  out 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  235 

the  watering  places  for  us.  This  kindness  enabled  us  to 
water  at  once  and  proceed  in  the  direction  of  Sekhomi. 
.  .  .  Mr.  O.  went  by  way  of  Lobatane.  Reached  Sek- 
homi on  the  8th.  .  .  .  He  has  a  bad  name,  but  we  have 
always  experienced  kindness  at  his  hands.  He  has  in  his 
intercourse  with  strangers  been  more  sinned  against  than 
his  detractors  like  to  say.  Those  who  have  behaved  well 
to  him,  as  Mr.  O.,  etc.,  have  no  complaint  to  make.  .  .  . 
Reached  Mr.  Oswell  at  Lettochwe.' 

'  14/A  May. — Passed  Kanne  after  having  found  water  at 
a  pond.  .  .  .  The  pleasantest  music  in  Africa  is  that 
made  by  the  merry  frogs.' 

'  J^th,  16th. — In  the  desert,  and  in  the  evening  of  17^/2  we 
reached  Nkao-ana.  .  .  .  Mr.  Oswell's  men  opened 
another  well  which  from  long  disuse  had  become  filled  up. 
.  .  .  This  well  on  being  re-opened  afforded  an  abundant 
supply  for  all  our  cattle.' 

'  20th. — Left  Nkao-ana.  At  Kokonyane  Mr.  Oswell  again 
opened  the  wells.  Though  I  can't  repay,  I  may  record 
with  gratitude  his  kindness,  so  that  if  spared  to  look  upon 
these  my  private  memoranda,  in  future  years,  proper 
emotions  may  ascend  to  Him  Who  inclined  his  heart  to 
show  so  much  friendship.' 

'  2yth. — Left  Nchokotsaand  proceeded  N.  to  Maritsa.  A 
party  of  traders  had  preceded  us  by  a  few  days,  and  being 
desirous  of  going  to  Sebitoane's  they  offered  Tsapoe,  the 
Bakurutse  chief,  three  or  four  guns  if  he  would  furnish  them 
with  guides.  But  he  declined.  The  gun  of  a  Bamang- 
wato  man  called  Kamati  was  accidentally  broken  after  he 
parted  with  the  traders.  Coming  to  us  at  Nchokotsa,  he 
offered  to  give  us  a  guide  to  lead  us  Northward  instead  of 
going  to  the  Tamunakle,  if  we  would  give  him  one  of 
our  muskets  in  exchange  for  his  broken  one.  To  this  we 
gladly  consented,  as  the  course  he  proposed  was  shorter 
than  the  other  and  it  would  enable  us  to  reach  Sebitoane 
before  the  trading  party.  This  was  of  great  importance, 
as  first  impressions  are  always  strongest.  .  .  .  Mr.  Oswell 


236  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

furnished  a  gun  for  Kamati,  and  though  we  subsequently 
found  that  he  had  no  power  among  the  Bushmen  to  whom 
we  were  going,  as  a  hnk  in  the  chain  of  events  which  led 
us  to  go  directly  North,  he  is  entitled  to  some  share  of 
gratitude. 

'  We  ascertained  too  that  the  traders  had  found  a  man 
at  Tsapoe's  who  was  left  by  Mahale  (Sebitoane's  messenger 
to  Kolobeng)  sick,  but  declined  his  guidance,  thinking  him 
a  fool.  We  found  however  from  Mahale  that  he  would 
have  been  an  excellent  guide.  God  seemed  kindly  to  re- 
serve the  honour  of  reaching  Sebitoane  first  for  us.  I 
thank  Him  for  His  unmerited  favour. 

'  Crossed  the  dry  bed  of  the  Zouga  about  15  miles 
N.N.E.  of  Nchokotsa — the  bed  was  stony,  and  there  were 
small  dykes  of  stones  in  it  which  are  used  for  catching 
fish.     Road  hard — country  terribly  scorched.' 

'  Reached  Koobe  on  the  2'jth.  Several  wells  of  fine 
fresh  water  at  which  great  numbers  of  game  drink.  This 
water  is  about  25  miles  from  Nchokotsa.' 

'  28//z. — Left  Koobe  at  mid-day,  and  in  the  evening 
12  miles  distant  arrived  at  the  well  of  the  Mochweere 
tree.  .  .  .' 

'  On  2()th. — Still  going  nearly  due  North,  we  entered  on 
the  Saltpan  of  Ntwetwe,  which  is  15  miles  in  diameter, 
and  about  100  long.  At  one  part  it  is  soft,  and  the 
wheels  sinking  through  the  dry  crust  on  the  surface  up 
to  the  naves,  rendered  it  difficult  to  get  them  extricated. 
The  crust  breaking  before  the  wheel,  the  weight  was 
equal  to  a  plough  2,000  lbs.  weight,  working  at  subsoil 
ploughing  of  2  feet  deep.  .  .  .' 

'  ^oth. — Reach  Tloantla,  the  cattle  post  of  Moachwe* 
Here  we  found  that  we  could  not  have  Bushmen  in  con- 
sequence of  our  having  given  the  gun  to  Kamati  and  not 
to  Moachwe — the  latter  being  the  true  owner  of  the 
country.  .  .  .  Here  Moremi  stood  boldly  forward  and 
advocated  our  cause,  stating  among  other  reasons  for  our 
being    supplied    with   guides   the    entire   approbation    of 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  237 

Sekhomi  to  our  proceeding  to  Sebitoane.  After  produc- 
ing another  gun  it  was  arranged  that  a  Bushman  guide 
should  go  with  us. 

'  We  spent  Sunday  at  Tloantla.  .  .  .  then  on  Monday 
started  for  Horoye's.  About  12  miles  beyond  Tloantla 
came  to  the  spring  of  .  .  .  Rapesh.' 

'  Morning  of  Tuesday. — We  reach  Horoye's  spring.  .  .  . 
about  II  miles  beyond  Rapesh.  The  whole  of  the  ad- 
jacent country  is  hard,  and  covered  over  with  Mopane 
and  Baobob  trees  ;  the  underlying  rock  is  white  tufa, 
and  springs  abound  in  it.  There  are  so  many  to  the 
East  of  Horoye's  place  the  country  receives  the  name  of 
Matlomaganyana,  or  the  "  Links  "  as  of  achain.  .  .  .  The 
people  of  Horoye,  and  indeed  all  the  Bushmen,  were 
strong  well-fed  looking  men.  The  game  abounds  and 
they  are  reported  to  follow  it  m  its  migrations,  and  live 
on  the  zebras,  gnus,  etc.,  as  if  they  were  their  domestic 
cattle.  Furnished  with  a  Bushman  guide  from  Horoye's, 
and  with  a  glad  heart  that  our  difficulties  had  so  far  been 
removed  or  overcome,  we  set  forward  on  Wednesday,  the 
/\th  (June)  and  after  travelling  about  ten  miles  we  reached 
Maila.  .  .  .  Found  a  Makalaka  (Mashona)  who  had 
fled  from  Moselikatze  living  here.  The  Mashona  are  inter- 
esting, for  they  are  always  spoken  of  by  the  other  tribes  as 
superior  to  them  both  in  the  arts  of  peace  and  war,  and 
they  always  prefer  the  former,  unless  attacked.  Turn  to 
the  West  at  mid-day,  and  after  travelling  another  ten  miles 
we  reached  Unko.  Water  from  another  of  these  springs 
excellent.     Many  buffaloes  drink  there.   .   .   .' 

'  Friday,  the  6th. — Pass  through  ten  miles  of  thick  bush 
and  heavy  sand,  and  next  morning  after  going  5  miles 
more  we  reached  Kamakama,  a  fine  pool  of  rain  water.  .  .  . 
Leaving  Kamakama  we  passed  by  a  dried-out.  .  .  stony  de- 
pression similar  to  the  other  springs — a  long  tract  of  bush, 
then  three  miles  of  a  perfectly  level  and  bushless  flat 
covered  with  very  short  grass,  the  distance  in  all  being 
about  12  miles.  .  .  .' 


238  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

'  On  Saturday  the  yth,  passed  through  10  miles  of  well- 
wooded  country  and  reached  a  chain  of  ponds  in  a 
depression  like  the  bed  of  an  ancient  river.  I  counted 
15  of  them — there  was  a  village  of  Bushmen  near  .  .  . 
named  Goosimjarrah.  .  .  .  What  a  wonderful  people  the 
Bushmen  are  !  always  merry  and  laughing  and  never  tell 
lies  wantonly  like  the  Bechuana.  They  have  more  of  the 
appearance  of  worship  than  any  of  the  Bechuana.  When 
will  these  dwellers  in  the  wilderness  bow  down  before 
their  Lord  ?  No  man  seems  to  care  for  the  Bushman's 
soul.  .  .  .  The  most  difficult  part  of  the  whole  journey 
lay  between  Goosimjarrah  and  the  river  Mababe.  The 
first  20  miles  were  heavy  sand  and  thick  bush.  The  axes 
were  kept  going  constantly,  and  the  course  cut  through 
was  so  winding  we  could  scarcely  ever  see  the  front 
oxen.  .  .  .' 

'On  Monday  the  igth  we  were  in  ig°  38';  on  Tuesday 
Shobo  wandered,  and  as  he  followed  the  paths  made  by 
the  elephants  in  passing  from  one  clump  of  mohonono 
bush  to  another,  our  course  was  zigzag  enough.  We 
travelled  chiefly  at  night,  and  felt  contented  when  we  had 
our  heads  towards  the  Northern  Bear  in  Charles's  Wain, 
but  it  was  annoymg  when  we  found  Shobo  turned  away 
round  to  the  Southern  Cross.  Not  a  bird  or  insect  could 
be  seen  during  these  three  dreary  days.  As  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach  it  was  a  vast  plain  of  low,  thorny  scrub. 
It  was  perfectly  still.  On  the  third  day  a  bird  chirped  in 
a  bush  and  the  dog  began  to  bark  at  it. 

'  On  Wednesday  the  nth  .  .  .  we  had  been  travelling 
about  65  miles  from  Goosimjarrah  in  a  Norwesterly 
direction.  Shobo  refused  to  go  on  at  night,  and  to  our 
coaxing  he  replied  with  a  good-natured  smile.  ...  "  Do 
you  know  where  you  are,  Shobo  ?  perhaps  we  are  at 
Bitale,  perhaps  somewhere  else,  I  don't  know,"  and  then 
doubled  himself  up  like  a  dog  on  his  side  to  sleep,  leaving 
us  to  look  on  in  utter  dumbfounderment  at  his  coolness. 
At  last  we  began  to  observe  the  presence  of  birds,  then 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  239 

the  footprints  of  animals,  particularly  of  the  rhinoceros 
which  we  knew  never  lives  far  from  water ;  then  a  broad 
footpath  made  by  animals  in  going  to  drink — so  we  un- 
yoked the  oxen  and  put  them  on  the  path.  They  went 
off  at  a  hard  trot,  and  never  stopped  till  they  reached  the 
water  in  the  River  Mababe,  Some  of  them  diverged  into 
another  path  and  we  have  reason  to  suspect  that  they 
were  bitten  by  the  tsetse  in  consequence.  We  never  saw 
the  animals  so  much  distressed  by  thirst,  though  we 
have  seen  them  go  longer  than  three  days  without  a  drop 
of  water.  Mr.  O.  and  I  remained  with  the  wagons  while 
all  the  people  went  after  the  oxen.  As  is  always  the  case, 
the  children  drank  more  than  usual  as  the  water  became 
less,  and  their  mother  sat  crying  over  them  as  she  saw 
the  precious  fluid  drawing  to  the  bottom  of  the  bottle.  It 
was  no  wonder ;  we  did  not  know  for  certain  that  the  men 
would  return  with  water,  and  the  very  idea  of  little  ones 
perishing  before  one's  eyes  for  thirst  is  dreadful. 

'  On  Thursday  morning  Mr.  O.  and  I  went  forward  in 
search  of  the  people,  and  after  walking  three  or  four  miles 
met  them  returning.  No  one  knows  the  value  of  water 
till  he  is  deprived  of  it.  We  never  need  any  spirits  to 
qualify  it  or  prevent  an  immense  draught  of  it  from  doing 
us  harm.  I  have  drunk  water  swarming  with  insects, 
thick  with  mud  and  putrid  from  rhinoceros  urine  and 
buffaloes'  dung,  and  no  stinted  draughts  of  it  either,  yet 
never  felt  any  inconvenience  from  it.  Have  those  who  find 
that  good  water  does  them  harm,  not  wasted  their  stomachs 
by  fermented  and  other  liquors,  so  that  they  are  incapable 
of  bearing  their  natural  fluid  ?  Are  their  stomachs  in  the 
same  state  as  diseased  eyes  which  cannot  bear  the  stimulus 
©flight?  .  .  .'* 

■■'-  Later  in  his  journal  he  writes :  '  The  introduction  of 
English  drinking  customs  and  English  drinks  among  the 
natives  of  this  country  inevitably  proves  the  destruction  of 
soul  and  body.' 


240  WILLIAM  COTTON  OS  WELL 

'  12th. — After  the  people  returned  with  the  cattle  we 
turned  from  our  westerly  course  to  the  N.N.E.,  and  went 
parallel  with  the  river.   .   .   .' 

'  i^th. — Went  about  two  miles  and  came  to  the  village 
of  Chombo  .  .  .  the  people  live  on  the  banks  of  a  swamp 
loor  II  miles  in  breadth  into  which  the  Alababe  flows  .  .  . 
they  build  their  huts  with  a  sort  of  second  storey  in 
which  they  sleep.  When  mosquitoes  are  troublesome 
they  make  a  fire  below  and  lie  in  the  smoke.  .  .  . 
Chombo  volunteered  to  be  our  guide  to  Sebitoane  and 
informed  us  that  there  were  two  paths,  one  of  which  was 
short,  VIZ.,  only  three  days,  but  it  had  tsetse ;  the  other 
was  longer,  but  we  should  be  three  nights  or  four  days 
without  water,  and  no  tsetse.  Understanding  from  him 
that  we  could  travel  in  the  tsetse  district  by  night  in  safety, 
we  chose  the  shorter  path,  and  after  spending  Sunday  the 
1 5^/j  with  the  Bomagoa,  crossed  the  swamp.  .  .  sleep  8  or  9 
miles  beyond  the  marsh  under  Mopane  trees. 

'  After  travelling  other  16  or  17  miles  we  reached  a  fine 
large  pond  called  Tsatsara,  in  all  from  Chombo's  34  or 
35  miles.' 

'  iSth. — Went  to  a  small  pond  called  Tsara.  In  ap- 
proaching the  tsetse  district  in  the  evening  saw,  for  the 
first  time,  the  tsetse.  We  unyoked  and  sent  the  cattle 
back  till  it  was  dark,  and  then  rode  forward,  crossed  the 
river  Souta  about  8  miles  beyond  Tsara.  .  .  .  The  Souta 
was  about  3  feet  deep  and  about  40  yards  broad.  .  .  . 
27  miles  from  Tsara  we  struck  the  Chobe  river,  and 
found  ourselves  still  in  the  midst  of  the  tsetse.  ...  As 
our  cattle  would  not  swim  over  they  were  kept  in  the 
reeds  during  the  day,  it  being  believed  that  the  tsetse 
does  not  fly  thither.  Next  day  some  of  the  beautiful 
little  cattle  of  the  Makololo  or  Basuto  were  brought  to 
precede  our  cattle  in  crossing  the  river — they  take  to  the 
water  readily. 

'  On  the  20th  Tonuana,  one  of  the  chief  men  of  Sebi- 
toane, was  sent  with  Mahale  to  us.' 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  241 

They  stated  that  Sebitoane,  who  had  come  more  than 
four  hundred  miles  to  meet  the  white  men,  was  on  an 
island  thirty  miles  down  stream.  He  had  sent  his  own 
paddlers  to  bring  them  to  him. 

For  the  present,  at  all  events,  they  deemed  it  expedient 
to  go  to  him  alone.  Accordingly  they  settled  Mrs.  Living- 
stone and  the  children  with  the  wagons,  on  the  south  bank, 
and  the  oxen  and  horses,  to  escape  the  tsetse,  on  the 
north,  and  on  the  next  day — June  21 — paddled  down 
stream  with  the  current  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour, 
and  landed  at  their  destination  at  3  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon. 

'  Presently,'  writes  Oswell,  '  this  really  great  Chief  and 
man  came  to  meet  us,  shy  and  ill  at  ease.  We  held  out  our 
hands  in  the  accustomed  way  of  true  Britons,  and  I  was 
surprised  to  see  that  his  mother-wit  gave  him  immediate 
insight  into  what  was  expected  of  him,  and  the  friendly 
meaning  of  our  salutation.  Though  he  could  never  have 
witnessed  it  before,  he  at  once  followed  suit,  and  placed 
his  hand  in  ours  as  if  to  the  manner  born.  I  felt  troubled 
at  the  evident  nervousness  of  the  famous  warrior  (for  he 
had  been  and  still  was  a  mighty  fighter  with  very  remark- 
able force  of  character).  Surrounded  by  his  tribesmen  he 
stood  irresolute  and  quite  overcome  in  the  presence  of 
two  ordinary-looking  Europeans. 

'  Livingstone  entered  at  once  into  conversation  with 
him  ;  but  throughout  that  day  and  the  next  a  sad,  half- 
scared  look  never  faded  from  his  face.  He  had  wished  us 
to  visit  him,*  but  the  reality  of  our  coming,  with  all  its 

"  '  He  told  us,'  v/rites  Livingstone,  '  that  having  been  in- 
formed by  the  messengers  he  had  sent  to  Mr.  Oswell  and  me 
of  our  vain  attempts  to  penetrate  into  his  country  in  the  pre- 
ceding year,  he  had  in  the  present  instance,  in  his  eagerness  to 
make  our  acquaintance,  not  only  despatched  parties  to  search 
for  us  along  the  Zouga,  but  also  made  considerable  presents  of 
cattle  to  different  chiefs  on  the  way,  with  the  request  that  they 
would  render  the  white  men  every  assistance  in  their  power, 
and  furnish  them  with  guides. 

VOL.    I.  16 


242  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

possibilities  and  advantages,  seemed  to  flit  through  the 
man's  mind  as  a  vision.  He  killed  an  ox  for  us  and 
treated  us  right  royally  ;  he  was  far  and  away  the  finest 
Kafir  I  ever  saw.  Beloved  of  the  Makololo,  he  was  the 
fastest  runner  and  the  best  fighter  among  them  ;  just, 
though  stern,  with  a  wonderful  power  of  attaching  men 
to  himself,  he  was  a  gentleman  in  thought  and  manner. 
He  had  allotted  to  us  a  bright  clean  kotla  for  eating  and 
sleeping  in,  and  after  supper  we  lay  down  on  the  grass 
which  had  been  cut  for  our  beds  by  the  thoughtful  atten- 
tion of  the  Chief. 

'  In  the  dead  of  the  night  he  paid  us  a  visit  alone,  and 
sat  down  very  quietly  and  mournfully  at  our  fire.  Living- 
stone and  I  woke  up  and  greeted  him,  and  then  he  dreamily 
recounted  the  history  of  his  life,  his  wars,  escapes,  suc- 
cesses and  conquests,  and  the  far-distant  wandering  in  his 
raids.  By  the  fire's  glow  and  flicker  among  the  reeds, 
with  that  tall  dark  earnest  speaker  and  his  keenly-attentive 
listeners,  it  has  always  appeared  to  me  one  of  the  most 
weird  scenes  I  ever  saw.  With  subdued  manner  and 
voice  Sebitoane  went  on  through  the  live-long  night  till 
near  the  dawn,  in  low  tones  only  occasionally  interrupted 
by  an  inquiry  from  Livingstone.  He  described  the  way 
in  which  he  had  circumvented  a  strong  impi  of  Matabili 
on  the  raid,  and  raised  his  voice  for  a  minute  or  two  as  he 
recounted  how,  hearing  of  their  approach,  he  had  sent 
men  to  meet  the  dreaded  warriors  of  Umsilegas,  feigning 
themselves  traitors  in  order  to  lure  them  to  destruction  by 
promising  to  guide  them  to  the  bulk  of  the  cows  and  oxen, 
which,  they  said,  in  fear  of  their  coming,  had  been  placed 
in  fancied  security  on  one  of  the  large  islands  of  the 
Chobe  ;  how  the  Zulus  fell  into  the  trap  and  allowed 
themselves  to  be  ferried  over  in  three  or  four  canoes 
hidden  there  for  the  purpose ;  and  how  when  the  last  trip 
had  been  made,  the  boatmen,  pulling  out  into  mid-stream, 
told  them  they  could  remain  where  they  were  till  they 
were  fetched,  and  in  the  meantime  might  search  for  the 


RECOUNTED   .   .   .   HIS    WARS,    ESCAPES,    SUCCESSES    AND    CONQUESTS. 


1 6 — 2 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  245 

cattle  ;  how  after  leaving  them  till  they  were  worn  and 
weak  with  hunger,  for  there  was  nothing  to  eat  on  the 
island,  he  passed  over,  killed  the  chiefs,  and  absorbed  the 
soldiers  into  his  own  ranks,  providing  them  with  wives,  a 
luxury  they  were  not  entitled  to  under  Zulu  military  law 
until  their  spears  had  been  well  reddened  in  fight. 

'  Then  he  waved  his  hand  westward  and  opened  out  a 
story  of  men  over  whom  he  had  gained  an  easy  victory, 
"away,  away,  very  far  from  the  bitter  waters ";  and  to 
whom,  when  they  asked  for  food,  wishing  to  bind  them  with 
fetters  of  kindness,  he  sent  a  fat  ox,  and,  "  would  you 
beheve  it,  they  returned  it,  saying  they  didn't  eat  ox. 
'  Then  what  do  you  eat  ?'  I  asked,  '  we  like  beef  better 
than  anything.'  '  We  eat  men,''  said  they.  I  had  never 
heard  of  this  before ;  but  they  were  very  pressing,  so  at 
last  I  sent  them  two  slaves  of  the  Macobas,  the  river 
people,  who,  as  you  know,  are  very  dark  in  colour,  but 
they  brought  them  back,  saying  they  did  not  hke  black 
men,  but  preferred  the  redder  variety,  and  as  that  meant 
sending  my  own  fighting  men,  I  told  them  they  might  go 
without  altogether."  This  was  the  only  intimation  we 
ever  had  that  cannibalism  existed  in  our  part  of  Africa.' 

Many  of  Sebitoane's  followers  were  dressed  in  green 
baize,  red  drugget,  calico  and  cheap,  gaudy  cloth,  some 
in  garments  of  European  manufacture  ;  and  the  travellers 
were  at  a  loss  to  account  for  this,  as  the  country  was  in 
18''  S.  lat,  fifteen  to  eighteen  hundred  miles  from  the  sea, 
until,  from  the  explanation  given  them  by  the  Chief,  they 
found  they  had  reached  the  southern  limit  of  the  slave-trade. 

When  they  had  spent  a  day  or  two  with  him  he  asked 
to  be  allowed  to  accompany  them  back  to  their  wagons  to 
be  introduced  to  Mrs.  Livingstone,  and  remarking,  on  his 
arrival,  that  their  cattle  had  been  bitten  by  the  fly  and 
would  certainly  die,  he  begged  them  not  to  trouble  them- 
selves, '  for  I  have  plenty  more,  and  I  will  give  you  as 
many  as  you  need.'     He  was  very  anxious  that  the  camp 


246  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

should  be  moved  to  the  north  bank  of  the  Chobe,  where 
there  were  no  tsetse,  and  pitched  as  near  as  possible  to 
his  town  of  Linyanti,  but  when  he  saw  that  the  wagons 
were  too  large  for  his  canoes  he  ordered  the  people  of  that 
town  to  remove  to  his  guests'  halting  place,  and  in  a  few 
days  a  new  village  had  sprung  up  there.  He  had  realized 
his  most  earnest  desire,  that  of  meeting  and  conversing 
with  Europeans,  and  he  exerted  himself  to  the  utmost  to 
prove  the  sincerity  of  his  appreciation  of  the  dangers  and 
difficulties  they  had  confronted  on  his  account.  Every 
wish  of  theirs  was  anticipated,  every  request  immediately 
granted.  A  crucial  instance  of  this  is  noted  by  Living- 
stone in  his  journal : 

'  When  Lechwee  came  from  the  Bamangwato  on  a  visit, 
he  enticed  one  of  Sebitoane's  wives  to  follow  him.  She 
had  ten  attendants,  and  after  wandering  about  among  the 
rivers  for  some  months  they  were  discovered  in  the  reeds 
unable  to  get  away.  Eight  of  them  were  put  to  death, 
and  then  the  wife  was  delivered  to  her  father.  He  replied 
that  she  was  no  longer  his  daughter,  and  he  must  just  do 
to  her  as  he  had  done  to  the  others.  She  too  was  executed. 
But  the  tenth  person — a  woman — came  while  we  were  at 
the  Chobe.  She  refused  to  go  near  until  I  offered  to 
speak  to  Sebitoane  on  her  behalf.  She  was  in  wretched 
plight  when  she  arrived,  and  in  despair  wished  to  jump 
into  the  ri^•er.  When  I  besought  Sebitoane  to  spare 
her,  he  said,  "  Shall  I  kill  her  after  you  prayed  for  her  ? 
Oh  no."  ' 

This  hearty  friendship,  as  heartily  reciprocated,  afforded 
splendid  promise  of  future  development  in  the  direction  of 
civilization  and  commerce — '  It  is,'  writes  Livingstone, 
'  impossible  to  overstate  the  importance  we  attached  to 
Sebitoane' — when  suddenly,  on  July  6,  he  fell  ill  of  pneu- 
monia, set  up  by  the  irritation  of  some  old  spear-wounds 
in  his  chest. 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  247 

Journal. — '  After  my  preaching  on  Sunday,  the  yth,  he 
called  me  to  see,  as  he  said,  "if  he  was  still  a  man."  I 
went  to  the  door  of  the  court — he  lifted  himself  up,  saluted, 
and  then  when  we  parted  told  one  of  the  people  to  "  take 
Robert  (Dr.  L.'s  little  son)  to  Maunko's  (his  favourite  wife) 
house  and  get  some  milk  for  him."  I  saw  him  no  more, 
for  on  the  same  evening  his  people  removed  him  towards 
the  Linyanti  town,  and  when  still  on  the  way,  just  at  the 
clump  of  date  bushes  at  which  we  stood,  he  expired  in 
his  canoe.  .  .  .' 

'  Poor  Sebitoane !  my  heart  bleeds  for  thee,  and  what 
would  I  not  do  for  thee  now  that  nothing  can  be  done  ! 
Where  art  thou  now  ?  I  will  weep  for  thee  till  the  day  of 
my  death.  Little  didst  thou  think,  when  in  the  visit  of 
the  white  man  thou  sawest  the  long-cherished  desire 
of  years  accomplished,  that  the  sentence  of  death  had 
gone  forth.  Thou  thoughtest  that  thou  shouldst  procure 
a  weapon  from  the  white  man  which  would  be  a  shield 
from  the  attacks  of  the  fierce  Matibele,  but  a  more  deadly 
dart  than  theirs  was  aimed  at  thee  ;  and  though  thou 
couldst  well  ward  off  a  dart — none  ever  better — thou  didst 
not  see  that  of  the  King  of  terrors.  I  will  weep  for  thee, 
my  brother,  and  I  would  cast  forth  my  sorrows  in  despair 
for  thy  condition,  but  I  know  that  thou  wilt  receive  no  in- 
justice whither  thou  art  gone.  Shall  not  the  Judge  of  all 
the  earth  do  right  ?  I  leave  thee  to  him.  Alas  !  Alas  ! 
Sebitoane !  I  might  have  said  more  to  him.  God  forgive 
me,  free  me  from  bloodguiltiness.  If  I  had  said  more  of 
death  I  might  have  been  suspected  of  having  foreseen 
the  event  and  being  guilty  of  bewitching  him.  I  might 
have  recommended  Jesus  and  His  great  atonement  more. 
It  is  however  very  difficult  to  break  through  the  great  crust 
of  ignorance  which  envelopes  their  minds.  .  .  . 

'  I  do  not  wonder  at  the  Roman  Catholics  praying  for  the 
dead.  If  I  could  believe  as  they  do  I  would  pray  for  them 
too.  ...  In  the  afternoon  Mr.  O  and  I  went  over  to  the 
village  to  condole  with  the  people.      They  received  our 


248  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

condolences  very  kindly  and  took  our  advice  in  good  part. 
"  Do  not  leave  us  ;  though  Sebitoane  is  gone  his  children 
remain,  and  you  must  treat  them  as  you  would  have 
treated  him." ' 

The  death  of  Sebitoane  rendered  it  necessary  that  per- 
mission to  proceed  should  be  obtained  from  his  successor 
in  the  chieftainship — his  daughter  Mamochisane.  She 
was,  however,  living  far  to  the  North,  and  the  tribesmen 
feared  that  owing  to  the  difficult  nature  of  the  country  to 
be  traversed,  five  weeks  at  least  must  elapse  before  her 
answer  could  arrive.  Livingstone  decided  to  wait,  but 
Oswell  had  announced  to  his  family  his  intention  of  re- 
turning to  England  early  in  1852,  and  he  doubted  whether 
with  this  long  delay  he  should  be  able  to  keep  his  promise 
to  them.  He  discussed  the  matter  with  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Livingstone,  who  represented  to  him  very  strongly  that, 
having  come  so  far  and  being  so  nearly  in  sight  of  the 
goal,  it  would  be  a  grievous  pity  to  turn  back,  and  that  in 
any  case  a  few  weeks  more  or  less  could  make  no  difference. 
Admitting  the  force  of  these  arguments,  and  bearing  in 
mind  the  extreme  pride  and  pleasure  all  his  relations  and 
friends  took  in  discoveries  made,  or  participated  in,  by 
him,  he  allowed  himself  to  be  over-persuaded. 

Jonvnal. — '  Very  glad  that  we  urged  our  friend  Oswell  to 
stay ;  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  Sesheke  will  be  so  much 
increased  by  his  presence,  and  he,  who  is  so  liberal  with 
his  means,  never  sparing  if  he  can  promote  discovery, 
ought  to,  and  I  hope  will,  be  gratified.' 

Meanwhile,  whilst  waiting,  the  Doctor  and  Oswell 
learned  what  they  could  of  the  country  in  advance  : 

Journal. — '  Mokontju*  has  a  great  deal  of  knowledge. 
He  was  of  much  use  in  drawing  maps,  and  Mr.  O.  and  I 

'■'  A  trusted  follower  of  Sebitoane. 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  251 

drew,  or  had  drawn  for  us,  upwards  of  sixty.  The  tablet  was 
frequently  only  the  ground,  but  the  agreement  of  different 
individuals  in  their  delineations  of  rivers,  etc.,  shows  that 
what  we  furnish  on  their  authority  is  worthy  of  credit.' 

'  Saturday,  2^th  July. — Went  over  to  the  town  of  Lin- 
yanti,  about  12  miles  distant  N.N.W.,  crossed  Linyanti 
river,  at  the  town  about  5  feet  deep  and  35  yards  wide. 
Contains  a  good  many  people.  The  poor  wives  of  Sebitoane 
in  deep  mourning ;  theirs  seems  no  fictitious  sorrow.' 

'  Thursday,  T,ist. — Receive  a  message  that  it  was  the  will 
of  Mamochisane  that  we  should  be  treated  exactly  as  if 
Sebitoane  were  alive,  and  that  we  should  be  taken  wher- 
ever we  wished  to  go.  The  men  who  went  express  to  tell 
her  of  her  father's  death,  slept  nine  nights  and  reached  the 
Borotse  town  on  the  tenth  day.  It  must  be  350  miles 
from  where  the  wagons  stood.' 

In  the  direction  in  which  they  wished  to  explore,  the 
numerous  small  rivers  made  wagon-travelling  almost  im- 
possible. Livingstone  therefore  decided  to  leave  his  wife 
and  children  behind  at  the  Chobe  camp,  while  he  and 
Oswell  pressed  forward  on  horseback.  On  August  i 
they  left  Linyanti  and  struck  out  in  a  N.E.  direction.  The 
country  was  generally  flat  and  dotted  with  clumps  of 
palms  and  gigantic  euphorbia.  Evidences  of  extensive  in- 
undations were  abundant. 

Nearing  their  destination  they  had  to  pass  through  fifteen 
miles  of  marsh,  covered  with  rank,  tall  grass  reaching  to 
their  shoulders  as  they  rode. 

Journal,  August  4,  185 1. — '  Mr.  O.  rode  down  a  quagga 
or  zebra  in  the  morning,  to  the  very  great  delight  of  the 
spectators.  ...  In  the  afternoon  we  came  to  the 
beautiful  Sesheke,*  and  thanked  God  for  permitting  us 
first   to    see   this   glorious    river.      All  we   could    say  to 

*  The  river  here  known  as  the  Sesheke  proved  to  be  the 
Zambesi,  '  a  most  important  point,'  observes  Livingstone,  '  for 
that  river  was  not  previously  known  to  exist  there  at  all.' 


252,  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

each  other  was  .  .  .  How  glorious  !  How  magnifi- 
cent !  How  beautiful !  And  grand  beyond  description 
it  really  was — such  a  body  of  water — at  least  400  3'ards 
broad,  and  deep ;  it  may  be  stated  as  from  three  to 
five  hundred  yards  wide.  There  are  numerous  banks  of 
white  sand,  and  on  these  we  saw  crocodiles.  One  hippo- 
potamus appeared  in  the  middle.  The  town  of  Sesheke 
appeared  very  beautiful  on  the  opposite  bank.  The  waves 
were  so  high  the  people  were  afraid  to  venture  across,  but 
by-and-bye  a  canoe  made  its  way  to  where  we  stood.  .  .  . 
In  crossing,  the  waves  lifted  up  the  canoe  and  made  it  roll 
beautifully.  The  scenes  of  the  Friths  of  Forth  and 
Clyde  were  brought  vividly  back  to  my  view,  and  had  I 
been  fond  of  indulging  in  sentimental  suffusions,  my 
lachrymal  apparatus  seemed  fully  charged.  But  then  the 
old  man  who  w^as  conducting  us  across  might  have  said, 
"  What  on  earth  are  you  blubbering  at  ?  afraid  of  those 
crocodiles,  eh  ?"  The  little  sentimentality  which  exuded, 
was  forced  to  take  its  course  down  the  inside  of  the  nose. 
We  have  other  work  in  this  world  than  indulging  in  senti- 
mentality of  the  "  Sonnet  to  the  Moon  "  variety. 

'  On  landing,  we  were  welcomed  by  many.  The  pre- 
vailing idea  was  that  our  presence  was  a  sure  precursor 
of  abundant  intercourse  with  Europeans,  and  peace  or 
"  sleep  "  by  the  possession  of  firearms.  One  of  the  chief 
wives  of  Sebitoane  saluted  us  rather  too  freel}^  —  she 
seemed  tipsy.  Between  three  and  four  hundred  persons 
collected  around  us.  Moriantsane,  the  principal  person, 
shewed  us  round  the  town,  shewed  us  also  three  English 
guns  which  they  had  procured  from  the  Bajoko  .  .  .  who 
are  either  bastard  or  true  Portuguese.  .  .  .  They  gave 
about  thirty  captives  for  them.  ...  As  we  had  tasted 
nothing  since  the  night  previous  to  this,  and  then  only 
two  biscuits  each,  we  were  rather  hungry.  The  question 
was  at  last  put,  "  What  do  these  people  eat  ?"  "  Every- 
thing except  an  alligator,"  being  the  reply,  they  had  lati- 
tude enough,  but  still  they  sat  and  feasted  their  eyes  while 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  253 

our  stomachs  were  starving.  At  length  Sebitoane's  sister 
brought  some  milk  ;  then  a  sickly-looking  man  gave  a 
piece  of  meat,  and  the  drunken  lady  a  dish  of  7iiothu'ohatsi. 
With  these  we  returned  to  the  other  side  and  prepared  to 
sleep  on  account  of  the  horses  being  there.' 

Livingstone  spent  many  hours  in  making  exhaustive 
inquiries  as  to  the  nature  and  extent  of  the  slave-trade  in 
those  regions,  and  ascertained  that  a  flourishing  and  in- 
creasing traffic  was  carried  on  by  the  Mambari,  of  whom 
Sebitoane  had  spoken. 

Journal. — '  Pity  this  market  is  not  supplied  with  English 
manufactures  in  exchange  for  the  legitimate  products  of 
the  country.  If  English  merchants  would  come  up  the 
Zambesi  during  the  months  of  June,  July  and  August, 
the  slave-traders  would  very  soon  be  driven  out  of  the 
market.  That  the  country  drained  by  the  Sesheke  is 
not  a  small  portion  of  the  slave-producing  region,  may  be 
inferred  from  the  fact  that  the  Borotse  town  is  situated 
about  8  days  beyond  the  town  of  Sesheke,  and  the  people 
know  it  as  a  very  large  river,  at  least  8  days,  or  other 
200  miles,  beyond.  The  natives  too  mention  the  existence 
of  a  water  or  lake  called  Sebola  mokoa,  and  if  this  is 
Lake  Maravi,  most  of  the  slaves  exported  on  the  East 
Coast  come  from  that  part.  .  .  .  Mr.  O.  thinks  that 
Agents  or  Commissioners  situated  in  different  parts  in 
that  region  would,  in  the  course  of  ten  years,  extirpate 
the  slave  trade.  I  imagine  that  the  existence  of  a 
salubrious  locality  must  first  be  ascertained,  and,  if  that 
is  of  easy  access  by  the  Sesheke,  then  mercantile  men  may 
be  invited  to  carry  their  enterprise  into  that  region.  If  it 
is  profitable  for  those  who  are  engaged  in  the  coast  trade 
to  pass  along  in  their  ships  and  pick  up  ivory,  bees-wax, 
etc.,  those  who  may  have  enterprise  enough  to  push  into 
the  interior  and  receive  the  goods  at  first-hand,  would 
surely  find  it  much  more  profitable.     The  returns  for  the 


254  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

first  year  might  be  small,  but  those  who  for  the  love  of 
their  species  would  run  some  risk,  would  assuredly  be  no 
losers  in  the  end.  The  natives  readily  acquire  the  habit 
of  saving  for  a  market.  Honey  abounds  in  the  country, 
but  all  the  wax  is  thrown  awa3\  Ivory  has  only  been 
used  to  form  armlets,  and  the  saw  employed  is  so  thick 
it  destroys  an  inch  each  time  it  passes  through  the  tusk. 
Ostrich  feathers  are  only  used  for  adorning  the  head  in 
the  dance.  All  these  and  other  articles  would  be  pre- 
served for  the  legitimate  trader.  The  people  have 
abundance  of  cattle  ;  they  are  unlike  the  poor  starvelings 
of  the  South,  whose  every  thought  must  be  directed  to 
"What  shall  we  eat  and  what  shall  we  drink,  and  where- 
withal shall  we  be  clothed?"  Give  a  people  the  oppor- 
tunity they  will  civilize  themselves,  and  that  too  more 
effectually  than  can  be  done  by  missionary  Societies. 
The  slave-dealer  must  have  his  due.  All  the  Mambari 
come  decently  clothed ;  we  never  saw  a  party  of 
Bechuanas  or  Griquas  of  whom  so  much  could  be  said. 
Perhaps  civilization  as  the  duty  of  Missionaries  is  a  thing 
taken  for  granted,  yet  still  requiring  to  be  proved.  W^e 
ought  to  preach  the  gospel — some  will  believe,  and  some 
will  reject.  If  we  are  faithful  we  shall  stand  in  our  lot  in 
the  latter  day,  and  hear  the  sentence  which  will  wipe 
away  all  tears  from  our  eyes.' 

'  Our  plan,'  writes  Livingstone  to  the  Royal  Geogra- 
phical Society,  '  was  that  I  should  remain  in  pursuit  of 
my  objects  as  a  missionary,  while  Mr.  Oswell  explored 
the  Zambesi  to  the  East.  For  such  an  undertaking  I 
know  none  better  suited  than  my  friend  Mr.  Oswell. 
He  has  courage  and  prudence  equal  to  any  emergency, 
and  possesses  moreover  that  qualification  so  essential  in  a 
traveller,  of  gaining  the  confidence  of  the  natives  while 
maintaining  the  dignity  of  a  gentleman.  .  .  .' 

Both  projects,  however,  proved  unattainable.  Living- 
stone could  not   hastily  decide  on   a  suitable  spot  for  a 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  255 

settlement  among  the  Makololo,  and  Oswell  found  the 
immense  marshes  and  the  tsetse,  which  abounded  in  every 
direction,  insuperable  barriers  to  his  speedy  advance  ;  and 
though  they  recognised  the  possibility  of  ultimate  success, 
the  former  was  anxious  to  rejoin  his  wife,  who  was  ex- 
pecting her  confinement,  and  the  latter  was  unwilling 
further  to  prolong  his  absence  from  England.  Accordingly 
they  made  their  way  back  to  Linyanti,  where  they  heard 
that  Messrs.  Edwards  and  Wilson,  the  traders  whom 
they  had  outdistanced  on  the  way  to  Sebitoane,  had 
arrived  on  horseback.  On  the  same  evening  they  pro- 
ceeded to  the  camp  on  the  Chobe,  and  finding  all  well, 
resolved  to  turn  homewards  on  August  12. 

Journal. — '  People  very  anxious  for  our  stay — promise 
to  return  .  .  .  they  propose  to  fulfil  Sebitoane's  intention 
of  supplying  us  with  cattle  in  lieu  of  those  killed  by  the 
tsetse.  Is  it  right  to  receive  them  ?  they  have  probably 
been  stolen.  ...  If  they  offer,  I  shall  receive  without 
reference  to  the  source  from  which  they  have  taken  them. 
Ministers  of  the  Church  of  England  take  their  tithes, 
although  many  of  those  from  whom  they  are  exacted 
believe  themselves  robbed.' 

The  consideration  of  this  point  provokes  a  curious  little 
excursus  in  the  journal  on  the  general  rights  and  duties 
of  missionaries : 

'  Jesus  came  not  to  judge — KpLvw — condemn  judicially 
or  execute  vengeance  on  anyone. 

'  His  was  a  message  of  peace  and  love.  "  He  shall  not 
strive  nor  cry,  neither  shall  His  voice  be  heard  in  the  streets ' ' 
—  Missionaries  ought  to  follow  His  example ;  neither 
insist  upon  our  rights,  nor  appear  as  if  we  could  allow 
our  goods  to  be  destroyed  without  regret.  For  if  we  are 
righteous  overmuch  or  stand  up  for  our  rights  with  too 
great  vehemence,  we  beget  dislike,  and  the  people  see  no 


256  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

difference  between  ourselves  and  them.  And  if  we  appear 
to  care  nothing  for  the  things  of  the  world,  they  conclude 
we  are  rich,  and  when  they  beg,  our  refusal  is  ascribed  to 
niggardliness,  and  our  property  too  is  wantonly  destroyed. 
"  Ga  ha  tloke " — they  are  not  in  need — is  the  phrase 
employed  when  our  goods  are  allowed  to  go  to  destruction 
by  the  neglect  of  servants.  The  principle  propounded  in 
the  Bible  ought  to  be  kept  in  view — "The  labourer  is  worthy 
of  his  hire."  "  They  who  preach  the  gospel  should  live  of 
the  gospel."  In  the  South  Seas  the  first  question  put  to  a 
chief  who  applies  for  a  missionary  is  "  Can  you  support 
him  ?"  In  Africa  the  idea  somehow  or  other  has  become 
prevalent  that  he  who  allows  a  missionary  to  live  with  him 
confers  a  benefit  upon  the  missionary.  In  coming  among 
a  savage  people  we  ought  to  make  them  feel  we  are  "  of 
them." — "  We  seek  not  yours  but  you  " — but  while  ever 
careful  not  to  make  a  gain  of  them,  we  ought  to  be  as  care- 
ful to  appear  thankful  and  appreciate  any  effort  they  may 
make  for  our  comfort  or  subsistence.  "  When  you  enter 
into  a  village  eat  such  things  as  are  set  before  you."  Acting 
otherwise  in  order  to  feel  that  you  are  independent,  or 
because  the  people  are  impure,  or  may  have  lifted  the 
cattle  they  slaughter,  seems  like  "  stand  by,  come  not  near 
me,  for  I  am  holier  than  thou."  "  Whatsoever  is  sold  in 
the  shambles,  that  eat,"  '  etc. 

When  they  reached  the  Zouga,  there  is  this  entry,  under 
date  September  15  :  '  A  son,  William  Oswell  Livingstone, 
born.'  '  He  had  intended,'  says  Blaikie,  '  to  call  him 
Charles,  and  announced  this  to  his  father  ;  but  finding 
that  Mr.  Oswell,  to  whom  he  was  so  much  indebted, 
would  be  pleased  with  the  compliment,  he  changed  his 
purpose  and  the  name  accordingly.' 

Whilst  waiting  at  the  Zouga,  Oswell  wrote  to  his 
brother,  and  replied  to  the  despatch  sent  him  by  Sir 
Harry  Smith  on  July  11,  1850.  The  subjoined  rough 
notes  of  his  letter  appear  in  one  of  the  MS.  books  he  took 
with  him  through  Africa : 


I 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  257 

'  The  insignificance  of  tribes,  with  whom  friendly  rela- 
tions to  be  opened ;  their  total  inability  to  resist  Boers. 
The  country  visited  this  year  with  its  inhabitants — end  of 
Bechuana  proper — dense  population  —  connection  with 
Portuguese — slavery ;  custom  now  easily  stopped  because 
recent — people  were  averse  ;  show  them  that  European 
goods  can  be  obtained  by  other  means,  and  it  will  cease, 
but  otherwise  the  temptation  will  be  too  strong. — 200 
taken  away  by  the  Mambari  last  year — Portuguese  met 
on  Bashukolompe  R.  by  Sebitoane's  people. — The  map 
has  no  great  pretension  to  correctness,  but  may  serve  to 
throw  a  glimpse  of  light  upon  the  darkness  of  the  interior. 
— Natural  barriers,  rivers,  fever  and  fly. — Fever  frightened 
Boers.  —  Sesheke  or  Zambesi  probable  termination  of 
Boer  immigration. — Country  of  Mosilakatse. — Death  of 
M.  probable  dispersion  of  tribe.  —  Regret  for  death  of 
Sebitoane. 

Livingstone  had  no  secrets  from  his  friend,  and  at  night 
over  the  camp  fire  poured  into  his  most  sympathetic  ears 
his  ambitions,  his  troubles,  his  anxieties.  The  experiences 
of  the  journey  on  which  they  were  now  engaged,  and  of 
those  of  the  two  preceding  years,  had  forced  him  to  the 
conclusion  that  he  would  not  be  justified  in  allowing  his 
wife  and  young  family  again  to  accompany  him  in  his 
wanderings  in  unknown  countries,  thus  necessarily  ex- 
posing them  to  constant  difficulties,  dangers  and  priva- 
tions ;  and  this  view  Oswell  shared,  and  cordially  approved. 
No  word  of  complaint  ever  passed  Mrs.  Livingstone's  lips  ; 
on  the  contrary,  she  was  eagerly  desirous  of  being  at  her 
husband's  side  wherever  his  duty  called  him.  Some  years 
later,  at  the  British  Associaiion,  Oswell  said  of  her  : 

'  After  spending  two  years  in  the  company  of  Mrs. 
Livingstone  I  am  qualified  to  speak  of  her  courage,  her 
devoted  attention  to  her  husband,  and  her  unvarying  kind- 
ness to  myself.  I  saw  her  fail  on  one  occasion  only — 
when  her  husband  wanted  to  leave  her  behind.     In  regions 

VOL.  I.  17 


258  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

thousands  of  miles  away  from  a  white  person  she  cared 
for  her  children,  and  encouraged  the  prosecution  of  the 
expeditions.  To  myself  she  ministered  many  acts  of  kind- 
ness with  a  delicacy  and  consideration  which  only  a  woman 
could  exhibit.' 

As  an  instance  of  her  courage  he  used  to  relate  that 
during  the  Ngami  journey  the  wagon  in  which  she  was 
travelling  caught  fire.  There  were,  as  she  knew,  more 
than  a  hundred  pounds  of  powder  in  it,  but  she  did  not 
stir,  contenting  herself  with  calling  to  her  husband,  who 
happened  to  be  near,  '  David,  David,  put  it  out  !' 

Against  her  own  inclination,  therefore,  for  her  children's 
sake,  and  to  ease  her  husband's  mind,  she  acquiesced  in 
the  wisdom  of  the  proposal  that  they  should  all  make  their 
way  to  the  Cape,  and  that  she  should  thence  take  her 
little  ones  to  England  by  the  next  ship.  But  was  this 
practicable  ?  The  clothes  that  served  well  enough  for 
the  wilds  of  Africa  would  not  be  suitable  for  a  voyage 
with  civilized  people,  and  in  any  case  they  were  few,  and 
nearly  worn  out.  A  complete  new  outfit  for  the  family 
would,  obviously,  be  imperative  ;  then  there  was  the  pas- 
sage money  to  be  provided,  and  the  missionary's  meagre 
salary  for  the  past  year  was  all  spent.  He  anxiously  dis- 
cussed with  his  wife  the  possibility  of  borrowing  sufficient 
for  their  requirements  on  the  security  of  his  future  income. 
At  length  he  yielded  to  his  friend's  advice  not  to  meet 
trouble  half-way  but  to  defer  the  consideration  of  the 
subject  until  it  became  actually  necessary,  and  meanwhile 
to  journey  southwards  with  all  speed.  '  We  return,'  he 
writes,  '  as  we  have  hitherto  travelled,  together,  he  assist- 
ing us  in  every  possible  way.     May  God  reward  him  !' 

It  had  been  agreed  that  a  general  halt  of  a  few  days 
should  be  made  at  Kolobeng,  and  it  was  a  surprise  and  a 
disappointment  to  the  Livingstones  that  Oswell,  without 
vouchsafing  any  explanation  of  his  change  of  mind,  ex- 
pressed his  intention  of  pushing  on  immediately,  alone. 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  259 

At  Colesberg  he  found  awaiting  him  a  letter  from  his 
brother,  and  one  of  the  long  friendly  chats  from  Vardon 
which  always  gave  him  such  pleasure  : 


The  Rev.  E.  W.  Oswell  to  W.  Cotton  Oswell. 

'  MiDHURST, 

'Aug.  14,  1851. 

'  The  last  report  of  you  was  from  a  letter  to  Louisa, 
which  we  were  not  a  little  glad  to  receive  as  it  had  been  a 
long  time  since  we  had  had  any  tidings,  and  the  warlike 
state  of  South  Africa  made  us,  and  still  makes  us,  very 
anxious  about  you.  You  seem  determined  to  pursue  your 
object  there,  and  I  trust  you  may  succeed,  though  it  keeps 
you  away  so  long  from  England.  ...  I  wish  you  would 
write  a  book  and  send  it  to  us  for  our  amusement.  .  .  . 
Had  I  a  permanent  residence  I  should  petition  3'ou  to  let 
us  have  your  African  horns,  etc.,  which  I  believe  are  in  a 
warehouse  at  present.  I  see  notice  was  taken  in  the 
newspapers  of  your  Lake  and  the  country  about  it.  .  .  . 
I  sincerely  trust  your  discoveries  may  tend  towards  de- 
creasinsf  the  Slave  Trade.' 


Captain  Frank  Vardon  to  W.  Cotton  Oswell. 

'  KURNOOL, 

'  Aug.  12,  1 85 1. 

'  Your  letter  from  Motito  has  just  come  in  and  I  set  to 
at  once  to  give  you  a  long  stave  in  reply.  ...  I  have 
lately  heard  from  Moffat  and  Livingstone.  I  am  as  fond 
of  poor  old  Africa  as  ever  and  my  thoughts  are  constantly 
on  the  Limpopo.  I  can  never  hear  too  much  of  it,  that 
is  very  certain.  .  .  .  When  you  get  this  I  hope  and  trust 
you  will  have  shaken  hands  with  the  great  Sebitoane  ;  he 
must  be  a  fine  fellow  by  all  accounts.  .  .  .     Cumming's 

17 — 2 


26o  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

Exhibition  still  goes  on,  and  Methuen  tells  me  that  a  black 
fellow  parades  up  and  down  in  front  of  it  in  a  leopard  skin 
kaross,  to  attract  visitors  !  !  I  never  thought  any  of  us 
African  wanderers  would  have  come  to  this.  ...  I  think 
I  told  you  that  he  wrote  to  me  for  the  skin  of  the  leche 
you  sent  me.  He  offered  me  various  things  in  exchange 
for  it,  but  I  thought  you  would  prefer  its  going  to  the 
British  Museum,  where  Mr.  Gray  assured  me  it  should  be 
well  set  up,  and  placed  in  a  conspicuous  spot.  May  you 
soon  return  to  see  that  it  is  so.  So  you  have  got  the 
skin  of  another  buck.  The  nakong  must  look  a  rum  un 
indeed  with  such  long  hair.  ...  I  often  think  of  you 
and  wonder  whether  you  have  any  of  your  old  servants  with 
you.  Where  is  George  ?  I  should  much  like  to  know. 
Have  you  Piet  or  Claas  or  John  ?  What  did  you  do  in 
the  fishing  way  ?  Did  you  haul  out  many  more  of  our 
huge  friends  the  barbers  ?  How  about  the  hippopotami  ? 
Have  you  shot  any  since  we  blazed  at  their  noses,  with  the 
Boers,  on  the  Limpopo  ?  What  did  you  bag  besides  the 
thirty  bull  elephants  and  the  two  quebaabas  ?  I  am  always 
curious  to  know  the  exact  bag.  I  shall  look  forward  with 
such  pleasure  to  your  next  letter ;  pray  mind  it  is  a  long 
one ;  it  cannot  be  too  full  of  the  wonders  of  the  new 
land. 

'  Although  you  won't  give  me  credit  for  it,  I  am  really  to 
be  depended  on  in  the  letter  way,  and  I  know  no  friend 
for  whom  I  would  sooner  employ  my  pen,  than  yourself, 
...  I  am  only  so  sorry  I  have  no  stirring  incidents 
by  flood  and  field  to  tell  you  of.  You  have  so  much  to 
tell  me,  that  sheets  wouldn't  tire  me,  and  even  the  names 
of  your  men  and  horses  would  interest  me  ! 

'  Did  you  ever  fall  in  with  any  of  the  gigantic-horned  oxen  ? 
The  pair  of  horns  I  purchased  of  Hume  hold  twenty  pints 
each.  He  didn't  know'  from  what  country  they  came.  .  .  . 
How  miserable  were  my  attempts  at  the  elephants.  Do 
you  remember  my  worrying  that  unhappy  old  cow  to  death 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lynchituma  ?     I  am  a  sad  spoon 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  261 

at  an  elephant,  I  must  confess.  I  think  I  could  manage 
one  better  on  foot,  as  I  could  then  make  sure  of  hitting 
him  at  any  rate,  which  I  am  certain  I  could  never  do 
from  the  saddle.  .  .  .  When  you  go  to  England  you 
will  find  Arrowsmith,  the  map  man,  well  worth  knowing, 
and  he  will  make  any  corrections  in  his  South  African 
map  you  tell  him.  He  saw  Gumming  once  or  twice,  but 
could  get  no  additional  information  out  of  him  as  to  the 
part  of  the  Limpopo  beyond  where  we  went.  .  .  .  And 
now  when  do  you  think  we  have  a  chance,  should  we  both 
be  spared,  of  meeting  again  ?  I  fear  not  for  many  years 
to  come.  .  .  .  But  never  mind  ;  we  will  scribble  to  one 
another  now  and  then,  and  have  a  chat  together  on  paper; 
and  in  after  years  we  may  perhaps  say  "  Dare  is  nix 
spoor."  I  certainly  was  the  worst  Dutch  scholar  that 
ever  owned  a  wagon,  but  I  must  say  I  never  fried  to  learn, 
as  I  had  no  fancy  for  Mynheer  von  Dunk.  ...  I  so 
hope  Galton  will  get  his  large  boat  to  the  Lake,  but  I  very 
much  fear  he  will  not.  .  .  . 

'  I  am  sure  I  offended  old  Macqueen  mortally,  for  I 
made  a  speech  in  front  of  a  very  full  meeting  of  the 
Society  one  evening  and  put  a  fearful  extinguisher  on  his 
friend  Mr.  Parker.  He  will  never  forgive  me,  but  as  you 
were  all  three  absent  and  there  was  no  one  to  take  up  the 
cudgels  for  you,  I  determined  to  try  my  luck,  and  I  think 
I  succeeded.  I  know  nothing  more  illiberal  or  ungenerous 
than  to  take  from  absent  parties  the  credit  due  to  them  for 
any  discoveries  they  may  make.  You  may  find  out  what- 
ever you  please,  but  Macqueen  is  sure  to  say  he  knew  of  it 
years  ago.     I   was  cruelly  disgusted  with  the  old  fellow, 

and  so  were  nearly  all  the  Members We  shall 

hear  no  more  of  Mr.  Parker.  I  said  that  Mr.  Parker  had 
not  been  to  the  Lake,  or  Mr.  Walker  or  Mr.  Barker  either! 
The  old  fellow  richly  deserved  it,  for  the  offence  is  a  most 
unpardonable  one.  .  .  .  The  Earl  of  Derby  you  see  is 
dead.  What  a  loss  for  zoology  !  If  his  son  only  cared 
as  much  for  animals  as  Protection,  he  would  have  leches. 


262  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

nakongs,  and  I  don't  know  what  all,  tame  at  Knowsley. 
And  now  farewell.  .  .  .  Give  me  a  minute  account  of 
your  visit  to  Sebitoane.' 

W.  Cotton  Oswell  to  Major  Frank  Vardon. 

'  COLESBERG, 

''Jan.  14,  1852. 

'  I  will  answer  your  long  letter  when  I  have  more  time, 
and  give  you  an  account  of  this  last  journey.  In  the  mean- 
while I  send  you  a  rough  sketch  of  the  country  we  saw  and 
heard  of.  I  wish  you  to  show  it  to  any  one  you  may 
please,  but  to  allow  no  one  to  copy  or  pubhsh  it ;  I  am  re- 
turning to  England  next  month  or  in  March,  but  you 
shall  hear  from  me  from  the  Cape. 

'  Do  you  ever  see  anyone  in  India  who  remembers  me — 
Major  Fred  Cotton,  Brooke  Cunliffe,  Mayne,  Nott  ?  If  so 
remember  me  most  kindly.  ...  A  quebaaba  was  shot  last 
year,  though  alas !  not  by  me,  with  a  horn  four  feet  nine 
inches  long.' 

On  the  back  of  the  sketch-map  the  following  notes 
appear : 

'  It  is  not  pretended  that  the  accompanying  sketch  is 
correct,  or  even  near  correctness.  The  dotted  line  shows 
our  course,  and  this  we  have  laid  down  as  well  as  we  were 
able  ;  let  others  prove  us  wrong.  The  greater  part  of  the 
whole  is  on  hearsay  evidence,  but  this  was  as  good  as 
such  could  be,  and  tested  to  the  best  of  our  ability ;  it 
must,  of  course,  be  looked  upon  merely  as  an  approxima- 
tion to  the  truth.  The  courses  and  directions  of  the 
larger  rivers  together  with  the  names  of  the  people  are 
probably  tolerably  correct ;  but  for  particular  bends  and 
exact  position  of  tribes,  etc.,  etc.,  we  do  not  hold  our- 
selves responsible.  In  some  particular  instances,  however, 
remarkable  windings  as  in  the  Chobe  and  river  of  Libabi 
have  been  attempted  to  be  shown. 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  263 

'Tsetse  would  appear  to  be  spread  in  certain  parts 
throughout  the  whole  territory  of  Sebitoane,  though  the 
natives,  having  learnt  the  spots  to  be  shunned,  manage  to 
rear  a  large  number  of  cattle. 

'  Sebitoane's  country  and  that  tributary  to  him  is 
immense,  and  may  be  roughly  stated  to  be  bounded  on 
the  E.  by  the  Bashukolompe  R.,  on  the  W.  by  the 
Chobe,  on  the  north  by  the  Loema  and  Lobali,  and  on 
the  south  by  the  Chobe  and  river  of  Secota. 

'  Portuguese  or  their  immediately  bordering  tribes  were 
in  the  habit  of  trading  with  the  Barotzi  before  the  occu- 
pation of  the  country  by  Sebitoane.  Last  year  the 
Mambari,  a  people  apparently  subject  to  the  Portuguese, 
visited  him,  and  purchased  some  two  hundred  slaves  for 
cloths  and  calicoes,  etc.,  etc. 

'  Portuguese  were  met  in  1850  on  the  Bashukolompe 
by  Sebitoane's  people  who  were  on  a  cattle -lifting 
expedition.  The  Portuguese  from  whom  the  Barotzi 
formerly  obtained  European  goods,  from  whom  too  the 
Mambari  came  last  3^ear,  would  seem  to  live  W.N.W.  of 
the  town  of  Bi  Barotzi. 

'  The  language  of  the  Barotzi  and  their  neighbouring 
tribes  is  similar,  but  very  different  dialects  are  spoken  by 
each,  all  quite  distinct  from  the  Sechuana,  and  more 
resembling  the  Macoba  and  Secoba  of  the  Zougha  folk. 
Our  wagons  stood  at  the  Chobe  on  the  southern  bank ; 
our  oxen  were  driven  through  to  the  opposite  side,  on 
which  there  is  no  tsetse. 

'  Livingstone  and  I  rode  out  to  Sesheke  on  horseback, 
swimming  our  horses  through  the  little  rivers.  We  con- 
sidered the  distance  about  ninety-five  or  a  hundred  miles. 
We^  were  eight  days  absent,  returning  on  the  ninth. 
Latitude  of  place  where  our  wagons  stood  18°  20';  of 
Sesheke  Town  17°  27'  and  about  27°  E.  longitude.  Whole 
of  the  country  travelled  over  distressingly  flat.  Many 
new  trees  and  flowering  bushes.' 

Vardon  replied  to  this  letter  on  the  day  of  its  receipt : 


264  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

' .  .  .  Don't  you  fancy  I  ever  forget  you,  old  fellow, 
even  if  you  didn't  hear  from  me  for  the  next  five  years, 
I  never  forget  an  old  friend,  especially  a  shikar  one,  who 
has  wandered  so  far  with  me  and  with  whom  I  passed  so 
pleasant  a  time.  I  was  delighted  to  hear  you  had  reached 
Sebitoane.  ,  ,  .  What  a  river  you  discovered !  and  as 
for  the  cataract  of  Mosio-atunya  I've  been  thinking  of  it 
ever  since  !  .  .  .  An  opening  on  the  W^est  Coast  is  what 
you  now  want.  The  land  journey  must  be  a  fearful 
undertaking,  all  one's  time  being  consumed  in  going  in 
and  coming  out  again.  But  couldn't  one  go  up  the 
Zambesi  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  ?  You  get  to  the 
missionaries  by  sea,  and  they  get  you  guides,  and  away 
you  go  !  !  Famous  indeed  !  How  I  should  like  to  try  it 
with  you.' 

The  Livingstones  had  not  to  wait  long  for  the  clue  to 
Oswell's  action  in  preceding  them  : 

Journal,  March  i6,  1852. — '  Reach  Cape  Town.  Find 
our  friend  Oswell  here  before  us,  the  outfit  ordered,  and 
he  presented  £^0,  ;£'20,  then  £^0,  £20  =  £i'jo,  with  the 
remark  that  as  the  money  had  been  drawn  from  the 
preserves  on  our  estate  (elephants)  we  had  as  good  a 
right  to  it  as  he.  God  bless  and  preserve  him  !  .  .  .  the 
best  friend  we  had  in  Africa.'* 

Just  before  Oswell  set  sail  for  England,  in  the  Harbinger, 
a  letter  reached  him  from  his  brother : 

'  Cliffdex,  Bonchurch, 

'  Isle  of  Wight. 

'The  mail  packet  shall  take  this  as  an  acknowledgment 
of  a  few  lines  received  from  you  dated  four  months  back 
whilst  you  were  on  the  Zougha.     I  was  delighted  to  hear 

*  Referring  to  this  incident  in  his  '  Missionary  Travels,'  he 
says  that  he  had  not  '  a  penny  of  salary  to  draw '  at  that  date, 
and  adds  that  '  the  outfit  for  the  half-naked  children  cost  about 

;^200.' 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  265 

of  your  welfare  and  of  your  having  accomplished  your 
object    in    penetrating   to   the   Zambesi.      I    could   have 
wished  you  had  given  us  further  details,  as  your  few  lines 
did   not  satisfy  the  cravings  which  so  long  a  silence  on 
your   part   has   excited.      I    suppose   however   you   were 
pressed  at  the  time.     I  do  not  gather  whether  you  are  on 
your  way  to  the  Cape,  as  you  speak  of  the  journey  "  in 
advance,"  without  further  explanation.     I  trust  however 
that  this  is  the  case,  as  we  have  learnt  from  Mr.  Living- 
stone's letter  to  the  Missionary  Society  that  this  is  his 
intention.     Uncle    Ben,   I    believe,   has    seen    this    letter. 
But   I   know  next  to  nothing  more  on   the  subject.     It 
appears  to  me  that  if  you  wish  to  have  any  of  the  credit 
of  the  discovery,  and  hope  that  it  may  lead  to  anything 
else,  you  should  represent  your  share  in  it  to  the  quarter 
you  may  think  most  desirable.     Otherwise,  from  every- 
one's ignorance  of  your  proceedings   (at  home)  there  is 
no  chance  of  your  benefiting  by  it.     All  the  notices  I  have 
seen  of  it,  have  certainly  attributed  the  greatest,  if  not  the 
sole  merit  to  Mr.  Livingstone,  and  necessarily  so,  as  he 
alone  reports  the  proceedings.     Not  that  I  at  all  mean 
he  acts  unfairly  towards  you,  but  only  that  your  silence 
necessarily  brings  this  about.     I  hope   you  will  pardon 
what  may  appear  advice.     But  I  cannot  but  feel  that  you 
would  scarcely  have  undertaken  such  an  arduous  enter- 
prise and  have  gone  through  so  much,  without  wishing 
to    have   a   share  of  the  credit,  and  to   be  placed  in   a 
position,  perhaps,  where  you  may  be  the  means  of  con- 
ferring a  real  benefit  to  civilization  and  commerce.     Your 
note  to  Mr.  Macqueen  also  came  to  hand ;  but  as  yet,  no 
chart  has  made  its  appearance.     Uncle  Ben  is  at  them  in 
London  about  it.     But  it  ought  to  have  been  delivered 
ere   this,    as    it    is    more    than    a   week    ago    since   the 
Hellespont  arrived.     I  do  most  sincerely  hope  that  when 
(if  you  are)  at  the  Cape,  you  will  come  on  to  England,  if 
only  for  a  visit.     The  packets  make  such  short  work  of  it 
now,  that  this  might  readily  be  done,  and  it  is  a  very  long 


266  WILLIAM  COTTON  OSWELL 

while  that  you've  been  away,  .  .  .  Thank  God  we  are  all 
well.  I  am  tolerable,  not  quite  so  well  perhaps  as  usual 
just  now.     With  our  united  kindest  love, 

*  Ever  your  most  affectionate  Brother.' 

Edward  Oswell  was  mistaken  in  his  estimate  of  his 
brother  when  he  suggests  that  he  '  would  scarcely  have 
undertaken  such  an  arduous  enterprise  and  have  gone 
through  so  much  without  wishing  to  have  a  share  of  the 
credit.'  Having  done  the  work  and  undergone  the  labours, 
William  Oswell  was  quite  content  to  stand  aside  and  let 
another  enjoy  the  fruits,  and  this  was  characteristic  of 
him  through  life. 

Livingstone,  however,  made  no  secret  of  his  indebted- 
ness to  his  friend  and  fellow-traveller.  Thus  in  his 
journal  he  gratefully  acknowledges  '  the  kind  attentions 
of  Mr.  Oswell,'  and  '  his  request  that  we  should  draw 
as  much  money  as  we  should  need  from  him ' ;  to  the 
Geographical  Society  he  mentions  that  '  all  the  guides 
of  this  expedition  were  most  liberally  rewarded  by  Mr. 
Oswell '  ;  while  to  the  London  Missionary  Society  he 
enters  frankly  into  details  : 

'  But  for  the  disinterested  kindness  of  Mr.  Oswell  we 
could  not  have  come  down  to  the  Cape.  He  presented 
supplies  for  last  year's  journey  worth   ^^40,   for  that  to 

Sebitoane  upwards  of  ;^20,  also  a  wagon  worth  £^^ 

Most  of  our  oxen  are  dead,  and  but  for  Mr.  Oswell's 
presenting  a  number  worth  about  ;^6o  we  could  not  have 
come  down  to  the  Cape.' 

'  Had  Mr.  Oswell  not  presented  us  with  £iyo  since  we 
came  here  I  should  have  been  in  a  fix.  He  clothed  Mrs. 
L.  and  family  in  a  style  we  never  anticipated.  This  I 
state  in  confidence  to  you  ;  it  would  offend  him  to  make 
it  public,  but  it  makes  me  comparatively  easy  in  mind.' 

After  his  eleven  years'  quiet  sojourn  in  the  interior,  the 
unrest  and   turmoil  of  the  Cape  struck   Livingstone  very 


AFRICA:  FIFTH  EXPEDITION  267 

forcibly  and  provoked  the  following  interesting  note  in  his 
journal  : 

'  The  Cape  heart  is  chafed  and  irritable.  Its  rancour 
and  rage  are  sometimes  directed  against  Earl  Grey,  or  the 
Hottentots,  or  the  Caffres,  or  Mr.  Montagu,  or  the  Mis- 
sionaries, or  Botha.  The  blame  of  everything  wrong  is 
hurled  everywhere.  In  the  meantime  merchants  become 
rich,  and  England  must  pay  the  piper,  the  natives  gene- 
rally learn  to  despise  us,  the  follies  of  Government  officials, 
over  which  we  have  no  control,  teaching  the  natives  their 
own  power.  The  mass  of  the  people  and  natives  too  are 
stumbling  on  to  developments  which  God  alone  can  plainly 
foresee.' 

John  had,  of  course,  accompanied  his  master  to  the 
Cape,  and  the  time  came  to  say  good-bye.  Both  men  were 
strongly  affected.  They  had  shared  the  perils  and  priva- 
tions, the  pleasures  and  excitement,  of  five  stirring  years, 
and  were  friends  in  the  truest  sense : 

'  I  told  John  in  part  how  I  valued  his  services,  and 
asked  him  if  I  could  in  any  way  repay  my  debt  of  grati- 
tude. I  had  taught  him  to  read  in  the  Bush,  but  that 
was  the  only  good  I  had  ever  done  him.  His  answer 
came  after  some  hesitation.  He  had  heard  so  much  of 
England  that  he  should  like  of  all  things  to  go  with  me 
there.  Two  days  later  we  were  on  board  ship  together. 
He,  as  usual,  was  everything  to  everybody,  helping  the 
steward,  attending  the  sick  ladies,  nursing  the  babies,  the 
idol  of  the  sailors,  to  whom  he  told  stories  of  bush  life,  the 
adored  of  the  nurses  ;  for  John  with  all  his  virtues  was  a 
flirt,  the  admirer  and  admired  of  all  womankind.' 

END    OF    VOL.    I. 


BILLING   AND  SONS,    LTD.,    I'RINTEKS,    GUILDFORD