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THE

WINDOW GARDENER.

BY

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EDWARD S..RAND, JR.,

AUTHOR OF ‘FLOWERS FOR THE PARLOR AND GARDEN,” “ BULBS,”’
*“GARDEN. FLOWERS,”’ ‘‘ RHODODENDRONS,”’
ETC., ETC.

NEW VY GR.
PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON.
Camhbritge: Che Ribersite Press.
3376,

~~

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by
Epwarp S. RAND Jr.,

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District of Massa-
cbusetts.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872, by
Epwarp S. RAND Jr.,

In the Office of the Librarian of Conzress at Washington.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by
Epwarp S. Ranp, Jr.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

PREFACE TO NEW EDITION.

i

HE present edition of the ‘* Window Gardener”
has been thoroughly revised and greatly en-
larged.

Every year has given us many new plants, and
some have proved admirably adapted to parlor cul-
ture. }

These have received notice, and directions for their
cultivation have been given.

A chapter has been added on the Culture of Or-
chids in the Parlor. These beautiful plants, the élite
of the floral kingdom, are yearly becoming more
common ; and as their wants become understood we
find that their culture presents no special difficulty.
A few years ago it would have seemed impossible to

grow orchids in the parlor, yet some species do well.

1V PREFACE TO NEW EDITION.

arid doubtless experience will enlarge the number.
The culture of Succulents as window plants, to which
they are well adapted, and the decoration of vesti-
bules and halls with half-hardy Evergreens, has de-
manded a chapter, and it is hoped the lists given will
prove useful. Many subjects have necessarily been
briefly treated, but the author hopes the volume may
be found to contain all necessary instructions for

window gardening.

GLEN RipGE, January, 1876.

PROTO Crore.

As some misapprehensions have arisen, and false statements
have been made in regard to the present volume, it is not out of
place to preface the present edition with a few words of introdue-
tion.

The volume is not wholly a new book, but is mostly composed
of a revision of chapters which originally appeared in “ Flow-
ers for the Parlor and Garden.” ‘The latter work, however, em-
braces a large range of subjects, many of which are only of interest
to those who have extensive horticultural facilities; and this, in
addition to its cost, necessarily places it above the reach of the
large number who have only opportunities for window gardening,
and who only wish a cheap manual of culture. 3

It was to meet this demand that the volume was originally
issued; and the cordial reception it has thus far met in the sale
of former editions well attests that it supplies a popular want.

While generally the subject-matter is not new, all has been
revised, and the whole volume brought up to the point of horti-

cultural progress of the present year. This, of course, involved

V1 WINDOW GARDENING.

the necessity for many changes, and called for the addition of
much new matter. |

The book is strictly what its name implies,—a manual of
“ Window Gardening,” and contains all the information neces-
sary for the culture of plants in the parlor.

It is not an expensive book, but is a manual of culture for the

many; and its price places it within the reach of all who wish to
brighten the dark days of winter by the presence of flowers in the
window, or who enjoy the home-culture of the pet geraniums, the
monthly roses, or the dark-leaved ivy, which often, under the con-
stant care of loving hands, thrive better in the chamber-window
than in the costly greenhouse.
She present volume is but one of a series of cheap works on
different horticultural subjects ; another of which (“ Popular Flow-
ers”) is already before the public, and of which others are in
preparation.

GLEN RIDGE, May, 1878.

CHAPTER

CONT ENT ss.

I. WINDOW GARDENING. . 7 : : 4 z

Growth of Plants. — Situation and Exposure. — Heat. — Mois-
ture. — Temperature of Room. — Ventilation. — Washing. — Syrin-
ging. — Watering. — Choice of Pots. — Window Flower Tables. —
Window Shelves. — Potting. — Manuring. — Soil — Peat. — Loam.
— Sand. — Leaf Mould. — Manure. — Proportions of Each. — In-
sects. — Green Fly. — Mealy Bug: — Scale. — Red Spider. — Prun-
ing.

II. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. ? f

Tue CamMELLia: History. — Culture. — Soil. — Temperature. —
Potting. — Pruning. — Selection of Varieties. ORANGE AND LEMON
Trees: Culture. — Growth. — Blooming. — Varieties. — Seedlings.
— Budding. Tue Dapune: Pruning — Potting. — Varieties. —
Soil. THe AzALEA: Description. — Potting. — Culture. — Prun-
ing. — Varieties. THe Heatu: History. — Soil. — Drainage. —
Watering. — Hard and Soft Wooded. — Temperature. — Summer
Culture. — Re-potting. — Insects. — Rooting Plants. — Varieties.
Tur CycLaMEN : Potting. — Soil. — Growth. — Seedlings. — Varie-
ties.

JII. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued. .

Tur GERANIUM. ‘THE PELARGONIUM: History. — Culture. —
Soil. — Potting. — Winter Treatment. — Varieties. THE VERBENA:
History. — Culture. — Cuttings. —Summer Cu!ture. — Potting for
Winter. — Watering. — Soil. — Seedlings. — Properties of a good
Verbena. — Window Culture. — Varieties. THE Hetiorrore: His-
tory. — Culture. — Pruning. — Varieties. Tue Satvia, oR MExi-
cAN SAGE: Summer Culture. — Winter Culture. — Varieties. THE
TrRoPAOLUM, OR Nasturtium: Varieties. -— Soil. — Cu'ture.—
Varieties of the smal] Nasturtium. — Window Culture.

(7)

PAGE

a

§

CONTENTS. .«

IV. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued. .

Roses. Cuina Rose: History. — Description. — Soil. — Prun-
ing. — Watering. — Varieties. Tra Rose: History. — Culture. —
Varieties. _Bourson Roses: History. — Culture. — Varieties.
Pinks: Indian Pink. — Carnation. — Difference between Carnation
and Picotee. — Classes. — Soil. — Potting. —Care of Flowers. —
Culture out of doors. — Propagation. — Layers. — Pipings. — List
of Carnations and Picotees. Fucusras: History. — Growth. —
How to direct it. — Wintering. — Soil. — Varieties.

V. PLANTS FOR’ WINDOW GARDENING — Coztinued.

MyrtTte: History. — Soil. — Culture. — Varieties. ACHA=NIA:
Ease of growing. — Soil. AputTiLton: Culture. — Soil. — Varieties.
THUNBERGIA: Sowing. — Training. — Insects. — Soil. — Varieties.
Atoysia, OR LEMON VERBENA: Culture. — Soil. — Watering.
CALLA: Resting. — Blooming. — Soil. CupHea: Culture. — Pot-
ting. — Soil. Cactus: Divisions of the Family. — Cevexs: Sum-
mer Treatment. — Pruning. — Watering. — Varieties of Cereus. —
Epiphyllum : Soil. — Varieties. HyprANGEA: Culture. — Sail. —
Effect of Iron. AGAPANTHUS: Sow. — Wintering. — Watering. —
Varieties. OLEANDER: Flowering. — Soil. — Varieties. Pitrros-

PORUM: Varieties. — Soil. Jasminr: Soil. — Culture. — Water.
fea

— Varieties. CALCEOLARIA: Sowing. — After Culture. — Soil.’

MAHERNIA: Description. — Soil. — Varieties. PximuLa: Sow-
ing. — Treatment. — Soil. — Description. Sotanum: A Parlor
Ornament. — Culture. — Soil. Laurrestinus: Description. —
Washing. Hoya: Description. — Flowering. — Watering. CHRYS-
ANTHEMUMS: Culture. — Watering. — Soil. — Varieties. BrEGo-
NIA: Varieties. — Situation. — Watering. — Soil.

VI. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Coziéiniued.

SmiLax: History. — Soil.—Culture. Getsemrum: Culture,
Stevia: Soil. — Culture. Petrunra: History. — Soil. — Culture.
FERNS IN THE PARLOR. CHRYSANTHEMUMS: Varieties for window
culture. AGAvE, or CenTURY PLANT: Species. — Culture. Ge-
RANIUMS, or PELARGONIUMS: New Variegated-leaved. — Double.
— New Ivy-leaved. PAtms For House CULTURE. f

VII. HANGING BASKETS AND SUITABLE PLANTS, AND

TREATMENT OF Ivy. . 4 : : = -

67

90

110

124

* CONTENTS.

2

VIII. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued. 133

AxpuTiLton: New Varieties. Catia Lity: Growth in Cases in
the Window. Oxatis: Description. — Soil.— Species. CuPpHEA:
New Species. CHRYSANTHEMUMS: New Varieties. Lity oF
THE VALLEY: Forcing in House Culture.

IX. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued.

ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE. LyYCASTE. ODONTOGLOSSUM.
CYPRIPEDIUM. B.LeTia. PuHaius. GOODYERA.

X. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued.

Roman Hyacintus: Forcing for Christmas. SuccuLENTS AS
Winpow Prants. Harpy anp Harr-Harpy EVERGREENS:
Hall and Vestibule Decoration. Hoxttres. RETINOSPORA YUC-
cas. Taxus. TuHuya. Cupressus. TuHujopsis. Propagation
of Evergreens by Window Culture.

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Be 4} BY») :

CHAPTER 1.

WINDOW GARDENING.

Growth of Plants.—Situation and Exposure. — Heat.— Moisture. — Tem-
perature of Room.— Ventilation. — Washing. — Syringing. — Watering.
——Choice of Pots. — Window Flower Tables. — Window Shelves. —

(4)

2 WINDOW GARDENING.

Potting. — Manuring. — Soil. — Peat. — Loam. — Sand. — Leaf Mould. —
— Manure. — Proportions of Each.— Insects. — Green Fly. — Mealy
Bug. — Scale. — Red Spider. — Pruning.

vn @) <4 O grow plants to perfection in a room
6 SE te | is not an easy thing. To insure any
a a
WANE: = degree of success, a careful and con-
“iNT ep Bare
es = stant attention to details is necessary.
~ pee ~~ These details are all little things in
Sy themselves; they scem almost trivial; but

()
he their observance is imperative, if we would
%

have our plants in healthy foliage and profuse

bloom. It is by the neglect of all, or some of
these, that plants grown in rooms usually present
such a diseased, unhealthy appearance.

Any one of us can call to mind some friend, who, as we
say, is always successful with flowers; has blossoms when
no one else can, and whose plants are models of health and
beauty. We laughingly say, the flowers are his friends;
he knows them, and they bloom for him; and so it is, in
fact; he knows their peculiarities, attends to their wants,
feeds them properly, affords the requisite light and air. Is

it then a wonder that for him the grateful flowers put on

Ww

WINDOW GARDENING.

their richest dress of green, and reach out their perfumed
blossoms ?

But before we give rules for growing window plants, let
us leok at these little things, which may come under the

head of general instructions. And, first, the

SITUATION.

We have decided to grow window plants, and we must.
“ot choose our window. Let it, if possible, face the east
or south; that is, be one which receives the full rays of the
morning sun. If we are unfortunate enough not to have
such a window, choose the one having the most sun; the
afternoon sun is better than none at all. There are very
few plants which will flourish without sunlight, and, as a
general rule, the more we can obtain the better. If you
have a bay window, looking south, you need ask nothing
better.

HEATING.

If possible, choose a room where the temperature at
night never falls below forty to forty-five degrees. Let this
heat be maintained by an open fire, or by an air-tight
stove, on which a large pan of water should be constantly

evaporating. A furnace is injurious to plants, by reason

4. WINDOW GARDENING.

of its dry heat only; the little gas escaping from our best
furnaces is not sufficient to affect plants injuriously. And
while speaking of gas, if possible avoid the use of gas
light in the room; the unconsumcd gas, always given off, is
fatal to delicate plants, and hurtful to the most hardy. If
you must use gas in the room, arrange glass doors to shut
off your plants from the room, or give up window plants,
-and confine yourself to growth in Wardian cases. If a
‘furnace is your only means of heating, provide for sufficient
moisture by constant evaporation. Another objection to a
‘furnace is, that it keeps the room too warm for a healthy
‘growth of the plants.

The cause of so many window plants showing long,
white, leafless stalks, with a tuft of leaves on the end, is,
too great heat and too little ight. Proportion the two, and
you obtain a short, stocky, healthy growth. In rooms,
this proportion is always uncqual. In winter, there are
eight hours of sun to sixteen cf darkness; we keep the
plant at a temperature cf sixty to seventy degrees all the
twenty-four. In a egreen-house, on the contrary, the tem-
perature falls to forty degrces at night, rising, by the heat

of the sun, by day, to a.maximum of seventy.

WINDOW GARDENING. 9)

VENTILATION.

This must not be neglected; it is as essential to the
health of the plant as to the human organization. The best
method of providing it is to open the top of the window when
the sun’s rays are hottest on the plants. The quantity of
air to be given must be proportioned to the outside tem-
perature. In cold, cloudy days, but little, and often none,
should be given. Care must be taken never to allow a

direct stream of cold air to blow upon any plant.

WASHING.

This must be done frequently. A plant breathes like an
animal, and not through one mouth, but thousands. As is
well known, the plant draws up its food from the soil
through the roots, in a liquid form. This food, very much
diluted, must be concentrated, and thus assimilated to the
plant. We have in the leaves of the plant, a most beauti-
ful arrangement to answer this need. They are filled with
‘* stomata,” or breathing pores, which allow exhalation when
moisture is freely supplied, and check it when the supply
falls off. These little mouths are found on both sides of
the leaf in most plants, but usually on the lower side in by

far the greater number. They vary in different plants from

6 WINDOW GARDENING.

several hundred to more than one hundred and fifty thou-
sand to a square inch of leaf. Now we are careful in our
own persons to bathe daily, lest, as we say, the pores of the
skin become obstructed; yet we are willing to allow our
plants to go unwashed for a whole winter, when the pores
are much smaller, more numerous and delicate, than those
of the body. The rule is obvious: wash the leaves of the
plants, both under and upper sides, at least once a week ;
if oftener, the Bete Use water moderately warm, and if
the plants become very dirty, a little weak soap-suds is
beneficial. This washing should be carefully done with a
soft sponge or cloth in the case of plants with thick, pol-
ished leaves, such as camellias, oranges, and daphnes,
Where plants have hairy leaves, or the substance is soft,
water is best applied with a small syringe, fitted with a
very fine “‘ rose.” To use this, place the plant on its side
in the kitchen sink, syringe it well, turning it from side to
side. Let it stand a few minutes for the water to drain off,
and return it to its place: it will thank you for its bath by
its bright foliage, Never wet the flowers of a plant; water
always injures them; nor allow drops of water to stand on
any leaves in the sunshine: the rays of the sun form a

focus in the drop of water and scorch the leaf. Once a

WINDOW GARDENING. rf

month, at least, wash the stem and branches of all the hard-
wooded plants with a soft sponge dipped in lukewarm
water; this prevents the lodgment of insects, and con-

tributes to the health of the plant. |

WATERING

Is one of the most difficult subjects to prescribe by rule,
yet there are some rules of general application.

Let it be always done with a watering-pot with a fine
rose, such as may be procured at any tinman’s. The
advantage of this is, it allows the water to fall drop by drop
over the whole surface of the soil, whereas, if a pitcher is
used, the plants are deluged, or holes made in the earth by
the stream of water, and the roots not unfrequently dis-
turbed.

Let it be done regularly; the morning is the best time,
and once a day.

The surface of the soil should never be allowed to become
perfectly dry, nor should it be sodden with moisture. The
temperature of the water used is of vital importance. It
should neither be cold nor.warm, but just the temperature
of the atmosphere of the room. Thus no check, or chill, or
undue excitement is given to the roots, both roots and

branches being equally warm.

8 WINDOW GARDENING.

A good plan is, to set over night a large pan of water
among your flowers, then you will be sure of a sufficiency
of water of the proper temperature for the morning water-
ing. If this is too much trouble, remember in watering, it
is better to have the water too warm than too cold, that is,
of a higher rather than a lower temperature than the roots
and branches. Now as to the quantity of water. No rule
.of universal application can be prescribed. What is life to
one class of plants is death to another. The amount of
‘water necessary to make a calla lily thrive would kill a
cactus or a heath, and yet the drought necessary for the
cactus would be death to the heath.

A good rule, however, is never to allow the soil to
become dusty or muddy, and with drainage in potting the
latter is easily prevented; by regular waterings, the for-
mer. Particulars of treatment for different plants will be
given when treating of each plant.

Never allow water to stand in the saucers of the pots

unless the plants are semi-aquatic.

Ports.
Choose the common flower-pots, selecting those which

are light colored rather than those which are brick red; the

WINDOW GARDENING. 9

former are soft baked and are more porous; in these, the
plants thrive better.

Discard all glazed, china, glass, or fancy painted pets;
they are not porous, and plants seldom thrive in them.
There is nothing neater than the common earthen pot, if
kept clean. If, however, something more ornamental is
desired, choose some of the fancy pots, — and some are very
pretty and artistic in design,—and let them be large
enough to set the common pot inside.

But there is avery pretty way of fitting up a window
which is but little practised; it is, in fact, making the win-
dow a flower garden. Build from your window into the
room a rounding wooden shelf, say, if the window is
large, three feet in diameter from window to outer edge,
but at any rate proportioned to the size of the window.
On this, place a large box, wood, or earthen ware unglazed, ,
made to conform to the shelf, and in this put your plants,
the taller at the back, the smaller in front, and on each
side a climber to run over the top of the window, ona neat
wire trellis or on strings.

It is desirable to have holes in the bottom of the box to
allow superflous water to escape, and to permit this, the

shelf should be covered with zinc, which is preferable to

10 WINDOW GARDENING.

tin, as it does not rust, and have a low rim all around it,
with a little hole to drain off the superfluous water running
from the boxes. This is a very pretty way of window gar-
dening, but is only to be practised in a very light room;
for in a room with but one window, the plants would all
grow to the light, and being planted out, they could not be
turned as if in pots. A pretty way to grow low plants, |
bulbs, and is to fit a box, say eighteen inches wide, and as
long as the window, into the window, and then place the
taller plants behind in pots.. This box could be turned as
occasion required, or as the plants grew towards the light,

or could even be removed from window to window.

PoTrinG.

But a few words are necessary. Always fill the lower
inch of the pot with broken potsherds to secure drainage.
In filling the soil around. the plants, press it in firmly and
establish the plant well. There is no advantage in loose
potting.

In re-potting, pare off as much of the old, sour soil as
possible, being careful not to injure the roots, and place the
ball of the plant in the centre of the new pot, filling in all

around with fresh soil. As a general rule, plants need .

WINDOW GARDENING. 11

re-potting whenever the roots begin to curl round the inside
of the pot, or as gardeners say, ‘‘ touch the pot.” This is
easily ascertained by turning the. pot down, striking the
rim gently against some object by a quick rap, holding the
ball of earth and the plant on the palm of the other hand.
The plant may thus be taken from the pot and examined,
returned again, settled by a smart stroke of the bottom of
the pot on the table, and will be none the worse for the
inspection. This is also a good way to detect-worms in
pots, they generally living near the outside of the ball. The
operation must, however, be quickly done, or the worm will
be too nimble and withdraw into the interior of the ball.
Stirring the surface of the soil is very beneficial, especially
for roses, if the roots are not thereby injured. Top dressing
is also productive of good effects, particularly with old
plants in heavy pots and tubs. It is simply removing the
top soil as far down as the upper roots, and refilling the

pot with fresh, light, rich soil.

MANURING
Is not generally needed in pot plants. A mixture of pow-
dered or small bits of charcoal in the soil adds a deeper lus-

tre to the green of the foliage and brilliancy to the color of

12 WINDOW GARDENING.

the flowers. Bone shavings produce the same effect on
hyacinths.

Liquid manure should be sparingly used, and then very
weak.

If guano, a tea-spoonful to a quart of water applied once
a week. |

Liquid stable manure in about the same proportion,

applied as scldom.

Sort.

In potting window plants rich soil should generally be
used. The different kinds of soil are, —

Peat, which is black earth or decomposed vegetable
fibre, usually taken from meadows or damp woods. If a
mixture of white sand is with it, it becomes more valuable. -

Loam, our common garden soil.’ It may be black or
light brown. The best is obtained by taking the turf of
old pastures and letting it lay till it all crumbles.

Sand, common, or “silver,” such as used by glass
makers. It should be free from salt. White beach sand
may be freshened by frequent washings.

Leaf mould, the decomposed leaves, being the top soil in

old woods.

WINDOW GARDENING. 13

Manure, the material of an old hot-bed, well rotted
and entirely decomposed; the older the better.

From these five earths all the soil for green-house opera-
tions is compounded.

In treating of each plant hereafter we will give its con-
genial soil.

As a general soil for potting plants, we would say two
parts leaf mould, one part manure, one half part loam, one

half part peat, one part sand.

INSECTs.

The only ones troubling house plants are, the green fly,
the mealy bug, the scale, and the red spider.

Green fly is to be killed by a smoking with tobacco. Put
the plant under a barrel with smoking tobacco; let it
remain, say fifteen minutes; then give it a syringing.

Mealy bug is to be searched for and destroyed. Fre-
quent spongings do much to keep down this pest.

Scale is to be treated in the same way. Warm soap-suds
are peculiarly distasteful to the creature.

Red spider, which is seldom found on house plants, is
nourished by a dry, warm atmosphere. Water is certain
death. Keep the foliage syringed and atmosphere moist,

and you will have no red spider.

14 WINDOW GARDENING.

PRUNING
Is but little required. Should a branch grow out of
place or dic, it should be neatly cut off; and a judicious
pinching does much to regulate the shape of a plant. Of
course all dead leaves and old blossoms should be cut off at

once.

MN |
y| ‘LL teach thee miracles! Walk on this heath,

And say to the neglected flower, ** Look up,
And be thou beautiful!” If thou hast faith,
It will obey thy word.

ah)

CHAPTER II.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THE CAMELLIA: History. — Culture. — Soil. — Temperature. — Potting.
— Pruning. — Selection of Varieties. ORANGE AND LEMON TREES -
Culture. — Growth. — Blooming. — Varieties. — Seedlings. — Budding.
THE DAPHNE: Pruning. — Potting.— Varieties. — Soil. THE AZALEA

(15)

16 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Description. — Potting. — Culture. — Pruning. — Varicties. THE HEATH:
History. — Soil. — Drainage. — Watering. — Hard and Soft Wooded.
— Temperature. — Summer Culture. — Re-potting. — Insects. — Rooting
Plants. — Varieties. THE CYCLAMEN: Potting. — Soil. — Growth. —
Seedlings. — Varicties.

(| N the selection of our plants, we must Le
much influenced: by the extent and loca-
tion of our accommodations. Some
plants thrive with less heat and light

than others. As a general rule, choose

only green-house plants, avoiding any

usually catalogued by nurserymen as stove

ee) plants. Discard ferns and lycopodia. With
&/ but few exceptions, these perish in the hot, dry,
dusty air of our rooms. The Wardian case is their proper
place. Remember it is better to grow one plant well than
two Harile Because you have roses, geraniums, and

daphnes, which do well, it is no reason you should also
grow verbenas, fuchsias, and azaleas; your space is suffi-
cient for the first three only; then be content, and do not
crowd your plants.

Now let us first give in detail, with their treatment, a
list of plants suitable for window gardening; then select

those for peculiar exposures.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 17

THE CAMELLIA

The camellia is a native of China or Japan, from whence
it was introduced to British gardens about the year 1739.
The name was given in honor of Father Kamel, a Mora-
vian priest, whose name, Latinized, became Camellus.

The plants first introduced were fairly killed by kind-
ness; an error not unfrequently repeated in our day with
newly-discovered plants. They were planted in a stove,
where the extreme heat soon dried the leaves and parched
the plant. We find no further mention of the plant till

1792, when the single red variety (Camellia Japonica) was
introduced, and flowered profusely in a common green-
house; during the next year many plants of this variety
were obtained from China; next we find mention of the
double red; soon after, the fringed double white, and many
varieties too numerous to mention. Strange to say, the
single white was not imported till about the year 1820, and
even now it is not common, though a showy and free-
blooming variety.

The camellia, in its native country, is a shrub or small
tree, though Mr. Fortune mentions specimens of the single

red as sometimes exceeding twenty feet in height, with
9

od

18 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

trunks of proportionate size. This variety is almost hardy,
and in the Middle States will often endure the winter;
we have known it to survive even our climate, when well
protected ; all other varieties are more tender, and few will
bear any severe frost without injury. Most of the kinds in
our green-houses are derived from Camellia Japonica, though

other varicties have, we believe, afforded fine seedlings.

CULTURE.

The plants should be grown in light loam, or sandy peat
and loam, say three parts loam, two parts leaf mould, one
part sandy peat; fill the pots one third full of potsherds,
to secure drainage, which is indispensable; if the roots of
the plant become sodden, particularly during the season of
rest, the health of the plant is gone, and years of care may
fail to restore its beauty, or remedy the evil caused by a
little carelessness in watering. When in a growing state,
you can hardly give too much water, and much good may
be derived from frequent sprinklings or syringings; this
operation, however, must never be performed in sunny
weather. One chief care in the culture of camellias is to
keep them perfectly clean; dust upon the foliage not only
injures the beauty of the plant, but affects its health. The

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 19

plants are injured by too much heat; some hold that no
artificial heat should be afforded, unless necessary to keep
off the frost; but as we wish our camellias to bloom at a
season when there is but little else to ornament the house,
it is advisable to force them moderately.

A. safe rule is, never to allow the temperature to fall
below forty degrees at night, or rise above sixty-five or
seventy degrees during the day. The plants will thus
expand the flowers more slowly and naturally, and there
will be no complaint of dropping buds, imperfect flowers,
and yellow, sickly foliage. One prime mistake in flori-
culture is the little attention paid to uniformity of tempera-
ture; a plant can no more preserve a healthy state when
exposed to an atmosphere varying from thirty to one hun-
dred degrees in a few hours, now dry and now surcharged
with moisture, than can an animal. The progress of dis-
ease may be more gradual, but it is sure to show itself,
and, sooner or later, the death of the plant is the result.
The plants, when in bloom, should be shaded, as thus the
flowers remain in perfection much longer. Give the plants
plenty of air at all times, but during the season of growth
protect them from chilling draughts, which would cause the

young leaves to curl and stunt the plant. During the

20 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

summer, the plants should be placed in a shady, airy
situation, out of doors; allow room enough between the
plants for free circulation of air; the practice of setting
the plants in a mass, under trees, is most objectionable;
in the first place, the drip from the branches overhead is
injurious, and again, the pots become filled with earth-
worms, which are often difficult to dislodge.

Another mistake in the culture of camellias is too fre-
quently re-potting; while the plant should not be allowed
~to become pot-bound, too much room should not be
afforded; a vigorous plant will not require re-potting
oftener than every three years; on this point there is,
however, some difference of opinion. It is a popular error
that the wood of a camellia should not be cut; on the
contrary, there is scarcely a hard-wooded plant that bears
the knife better; the plant is by nature symmetrical in
growth, and, by judicious pruning, perfect specimens may
easily be obtained. 3

Pruning should be done after blooming, just as the plants
begin their growth. Not more than one flower bud should
be allowed on each terminal shoot, if size and perfection
of flower are required; remove all others before the buds

begin to swell; if delayed longer, little advantage is gained.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. FH

The florists’ varieties of the camellia are too numerous
to mention; the principal colors are red, white, and rose,
with all the intermediate shades. The Chinese profess to
possess a yellow variety, but we believe it has never been
imported; we have seen a variety named “yellow,” the
flowers being semi-double, and of a dirty white color.

The following are all well-proved kinds, and may easily
be procured of any nurseryman. In buying plants, select
those of shrubby form, dark green foliage, without any
places where leaves have been dropped; look well to see
that the plant is free from scale, red spider, or mealy bug;
if possible, examine the roots, to ascertain if they are in
a healthy state.

White. Alba plena, Candidissima, Myrtifolia alba, Imbricata alba,
Fimbriata, and Oleifera.

Rose, Rosy Pink,or Carmine. Saccoi, Henri Favre, Imbricata rubra,
Marchioness of Exeter, Binneyii, Fultonii, Fordii, Floyii, Jeffersonii,
Landrethii, Myrtifolia, Prattii, Wilderii.

Blush. Uady Hume’s blush, Towne’s blush, Pomponia.

White, striped with Red or Rose. Feastii, Eclipse, Duchess of Or-
leans, Mrs. Abby Wilder.

Red, striped or marked with White. Carswelliana, Chandleri, Donck-
elaarii, Queen Victoria, Elegans, Elphingstonia.

Crimson. Bealii, Elata, Eximia, Lowii, Palmer’s perfection, Sarah
Frost, Wardii.

For Seedlings. Waratah, or Anemonefiora, Tricolor, Donckelaarii,
Simplex alba, Carnea.

22 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Could we have but one camellia, we would choose
Double white or Candidissima, for white; for blush, Lady
Hume’s blush; for crimson, Sarah Frost.

All these are peculiarly adapted for the window.

ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.

These are favorites for parlor culture, and easily grown.
Their treatment is almost identical with that required for
the camellia: the same soil, the same temperature, and the
same general treatment will produce success in the culture
of both.

But they are by no means so clean plants as the camellia,
being very subject to scale and mealy bug. The only
remedy is constant washing, both of the stem and leaves,
with a weak soap-suds warm, and applied with a soft cloth.
Grown in large tubs they do well in a parlor if kept suffi-
ciently cool, and in summer succeed well out of doors.

They are thirsty plants and require much water: good
drainage is essential. From December to March they will
make but little growth; then water moderately. About
‘ the first of March growth begins, succeeded by bloom; then
give more water. After the young growth becomes hard-

ened, they may be set out of doors if the weather is favor--

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 23

able. A violent wind disfigures the foliage. The young
fruit will set in April and May, and will continue green all
summer, coloring the next spring, and holding on the tree
a long time. At the first approach of frost, the plants
should be removed to their winter quarters. The lemon
does not bloom and fruit as early as the orange, and is of
taller growth and less fitted for the parlor: the blossoms are
smaller and purplish outside.

The little dwarf ‘“‘ Otahcite orange” is a very common
variety, and is always noticeable for its profusion of fruit.
The flowers are not as fine as the other kinds, though plen-
tifully produced. The fruit is sweet, but without flavor.

The Mandarin orange is one of the finest species (dwarf),
and producing an abundance of fruit of the most exquisite
flavor. Unfortunately it is not common.

There are many other larger growing species, all of which
produce a profusion of white flowers, exquisitely fragrant.

Among these, the myrtle leaved is conspicuous for its
shining foliage, and the large shaddock for its enormous
white flowers. The former is as symmetrical in its growth
as the latter is tall and ungainly.

Oranges and lemons raised from seed must attain a large

size before they will bloom. The better plan is to graft or

‘24 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

rather bud the seedling when about a year old. This
operation is simple, but is best performed in a green-house,
and it is therefore better to employ some neighboring florist
to doit. Any variety may he budded on a common seed-
ding stock.

Oranges and lemons will livé under neglect, but to grow
and flower them to perfection, attention to details, espe-

cially of cleanliness, is indispensable.

THE DAPHNE.

‘This plant, of which the species are numerous, never
receives the care and attention its beauty merits. Every
green-house contains plants of the well-known Daphne
odorata, sometimes called D. Indica and vulgarly known
as ‘* Daphne See It is to this plant we intend more
particularly to confine our attention.

It is a green-house evergreen shrub, attaining the height
of about four ‘feet, remarkable for its long, dark, glossy,
green leaves, and its terminal bunches of fragrant, white
flowers. It is one of the few old-fashioned plants which
the modern rage for novelties has not driven entirely out of
cultivation. It has only been thrust into the corners, and

left to make its merits known by its beauty and fragrance.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. . " Zo

It is one of our most popular flowers, and as a window
plant -is unsurpassed, flourishing and blooming in situations
where most plants would dwindle and die.

With gardeners it is no favorite, because, as they say,
it is too straggling, and does not form a neat plant. In
some respects this assertion is true, for it is impossible to
bring into good shape a plant of this variety when once
neglected; but by beginning with a young, healthy plant,
much may be done, and fine specimens formed. Let it be
remembered that the daphne ‘‘ breaks” easily. Prune the
plant to a bare stump, and in a few weeks buds will start
from all the younger wood; therefore prune severely ;
never allow a branch to remain where it is not wanted, let
it be as vigorous or luxuriant as it may, and never be afraid
of pruning for fear of losing the flowers.

The cultivation of the green-house varieties of this plant
is almost identical with that of the camellia; the same tem-
perature will do for both.

The plants should have plenty of pot room, and the pots
be well drained.

Potting should generally be done in the fall, about the
time the plants are housed, when as much of the old soil

should be removed as possible without disturbing the roots.

26 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

The principal varieties are :—

Daphne odorata, the most valuable variety from its sea-
son of flowering, which is from December to March, accord-
ing to the degree of heat given; leaves oblong, lanceolate,
smooth; flowers white or pinkish, in terminal heads, pro-
duced in great profusion. Introduced from China about
A.D.1770. Propagated by cuttings with great ease. It is
one of the best parlor plants we know of, and may be
obtained at any green-house at a very trifling expense.

D. odorata rubra is a superior, and by no means common
variety ; buds, red; flowers, rosy red, with a powerful spicy
fragrance. It is a somewhat stronger grower than the last.

There is also a variety with variegated foliage, which is
no less desirable, though rather scarce.

Daphne hybrida is a pretty evergreen shrub, hardy in
England, but too tender to endure our winters without
protection; flowers purple, produced in terminal heads and
in lateral bunches very freely, and pussessing an agreeable
fragrance. It blooms at all seasons of the year, but espe-
cially from January to April.

The soil should be four parts loam, two of leaf mould,

and one of sand.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. oY

THE AZALEA.

The Azalea Indica, or Chinese Azalea, is of Asiatic origin.
The varieties are innumerable; but the most common and
longest known variety is that from which others are but
hybrids, Azalea Indica.

It is a strong growing plant, with long, coarse, evergreen
leaves, producing in clusters of three or more, at the end of
the branches red flowers marked with dark spots. This
plant may be grown in great perfection, and, as well as all
the varieties, is admirably adapted for a window plant.
The habit is shrubby, and the flowers are produced in great
profusion. A. Indica alba has white flowers, and is a fine
old variety. A. Indica purpurea is a variety with blossoms
of a light purple color; a profuse bloomer, and of rapid
growth. There is also a double variety. A. Indica coccinea
is bright scarlet. From these all the fine varieties of the
green-houses have been produced.

To grow the plants in perfection good drainage is essen-
tial. Fill the pot one quarter full of broken potsherds,
then fill the soil to within half an inch of the top; soil, a
dark peat three parts, one part of loam, one half part of

silver sand.

28 P PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Frequent re-potting conduces to the health of the. plants.
As a general rule, re-pot when the roots run among the
crocks at the bottom of the pot. Do not sift the soil;
break it into small pieces.

l’requent syringing is beneficial, but over-watering must
be carefully avoided. Give full sunshine to the plant, but
lay a little moss over the pot if the sun is very hot, to pro-
tect the roots. |

Keep the plant about the temperature prescribed for
camellias. ‘

As soon as the flowers fall growth begins. Give plenty
of air and sun, for on this growth depends the bloom of the
next year. It should be short, close, and the flower buds
be set at the end of each branch.

Set the plants out of doors in the summer, as prescribed
for camellias.

Azaleas may be pruned into any shape. This operation
should be performed after the flowers have dropped, or after
the plant has made its season’s growth.

The Azalea is subject to rottenness of the roots, produced
by a sodden soil, the effect of over-watering. The remedy
is simple: re-pot the plant, and water moderately. Exces-
sive dryness, the other extreme, produces yellow leaves and

a general unhealthy appearance.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. ees

The following varieties are of proved excellence, and very
distinct. All will succeed in the house.

Azalea amena, a lovely variety; flowers double purple;
produced in great profusion in midwinter.

Indica lateritia, salmon; Danielsiana, bright red; Per-
reyana, eae. Murreyana, rose; Indica alba, white:
Purpurea, purple; Coccinea, red.

Iveryana, pink and white; Variegata, rose and white;
filedstanesti, white, striped with red.

This list. might be increased an hundred fold.

THE ERICA. HEATH.

All the plants belonging to this genus are of a low, shrub-
by habit, with fine acicular foliage. None are natives of
America. The fine varieties of our green-houses, with the
exception of the common Lrica Mediterranea, aré natives
of the Cape of Good Hope, whence the gardener’s term,
‘¢ Cape Heaths.”

The erica will not thrive unless the soil is adapted to its
peculiar niture; this is often very difficult to learn, and
experience must sometimes be the teacher. The soil to
obtain is one of a friable nature, full of vegetable fibre.

We find in an old magazine the best directions we remem«

30 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

ber to have met in regard to choice of soil. We give them
entire for the benefit of our readers : —

‘Heaths, like the azalea and rhododendron, make very
small, hair-like roots; and where these latter are growing
naturally, will be found a good locality to collect soil for
the artificial cultivation of the former. This soil will be
found full of decaying organic matter. Take up a handful
of it, and you will find a mass of thickly grown, fine fibre,
feeling like a bunch of moss. Examine it, and you will see
that it is chiefly composed of a black debris of leaves and
sticks, thickly interwoven with the roots of surrounding
vegetation. An inch or two only of the surface should
be taken: all below that is generally inferior, the organic
mattcr in it being too much decomposed.

“Where this deposit cannot be obtained, a good substitute
will be found in turves from old pasture, cut thin, collected
in dry weather, and piled in a heap two or three months
before using, so that the vegetation in it may be slightly
decomposed. Both in its chemical and mechanical prop-
erties such a soil is nearly all that can be wished. In pre-
paring it, however, it is better to chop it up rather fine,
securing a proper mechanical texture by the admixture of

coarse sand, broken charcoal, or even a few pebbles, or

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. ol

broken potsherds may be used to advantage for keeping the
soil open, to allow free admission for atmospheric gases ;
an essential point to be kept in view in the cultivation of
all plants, more particularly those in pots, for they are then
entirely’ dependent on the cultivator for those conditions
which they receive in their natural habitats.

“Such a soil as here recommended, kept sufficiently open
by any of the above mentioned ingredients, is easily pene-
trated by air, thereby increasing its temperature and facili-
tating the decomposition of organic matter, during which
process various healthful gases are supplied to plants.”

In either of the kinds of soil prepared as directed, heaths
will do well. The great point to obtain is a loose, porous
soil; for this reason the soil should always be broken,
never sifted.

Another requisite in heath culture, is good drainage;
this cannot be too strongly insisted upon; with the best of
soil, the plants will suffer if water stagnates around the
roots.

Fill the pot one fourth full of crocks, and be careful the
hole at the bottom is kept open. Never place the pot in a
saucer or vessel of any kind, for all water not absorbed

must be allowed to drain off. The pots should be clean

By PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

and free from mould or dirt; cleanliness is a point too much
neglected.

In some sections of our country, much difficulty is expe-
rienced in growing heaths; the water containing salts in
solution which are fatal to the plant, and we know nursery-
men who have altogether abandoned their culture. This
seems the case in limestone countries, and we have noticed
that heaths, of the tender varieties, when watered with
‘hard’ water, grew sickly and soon died. The best plan
is to use only rain water, and pursuing this course no diffi-
culty will be experienced. It isa eumaee fact, that in its
native countries, the heath is never found in a soil of which
the substratum is lime or chalk. In England, heaths are
always grown apart from other plants; with us they occupy
the coolest part of the green-house. As a general rule,
nothing short of frost is too cold for them, and some
varieties will bear several degrees of frost without injury.
In the wild state, they are distributed over a vast range of
country, which accounts for the different temperatures the
varieties require; the degree of cold adapted to each, must
be the lesson of experience. Among gardeners, heaths are
termed hard-wooded or soft-wooded; the former make only

a short growth each season, for example, H. Cavendishu ;

s

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, 33

‘the latter grow a foot or more, as E. Caffra and others.
The two kinds require somewhat different treatment; the
former being far more difficult to manage; they are, how-
ever, far more beautiful, some even dazzling from the bril-
liancy of their flowers. Heaths require plenty of air. If
crowded, they are subject to mildew; a disease much more
easily prevented than cured. Air should be given, if pos-
sible, every day; but cold draughts should be avoided dur-
ing the growing season.

Though heaths are often lost during the winter by grow-
ing them in too high a temperature, yet the greatest mor-
tality is caused by the heat of summer. With many it is
the custom to treat the plants as other hard-wooded plants ;
to turn them out doors during the summer, under the shade
of some tree. The consequence is, the pots are often
exposed to the hot sun, the tender fibrous roots become
parched, and the plant dies; or else the drip from the trees
rots the roots, producing the like result. Our experience
has shown the best plan to be a different treatment for the
plants according to their age. Early in June, all young
plants should be planted out in a bed with a northern
exposure; there they will grow luxuriantly during the sum-

mer. Before the September frosts, re-pot them with care,

5}

34 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

and winter as old plants. We have found a large bed pre=
pared for rhododendrons and azaleas the most favorable
place. It is sheltered from the south by a belt of white
pines. The soil of prepared peat is suited to the wants of
the plant, while the large foliage of the rhododendrons
keeps the soil moist by preventing rapid evaporation. For
the older plants, we choose a shaded spot, and prepare a
bed of coal ashes; slope the bottom to carry off superfluous
moisture ; plunge the pots in the bed of ashes, and if the bed
is exposed to the sun for any length of time, shade by an
awning. Be careful not to crowd the plants; a free circu-
lation of air is essential. By this mode, the pots are never
exposed to the rays of the sun; the plants receive plenty of
light without being burned, and by syringing at evening,
and sprinkling (not pouring) water upon the pots and bed,
a sufficiency of moisture is secured. Some varieties of the
soft-wooded class, such as Caffra rubra and alba, margari-
tacea, and others, do best planted out in the full sunshine.
The growth becomes short and stout, and the plants are
more hardy and less liable to injury. By this course, how-
ever, all beauty of foliage is lost, for the plants become of a
rusty brown color, which never disappears till the leaves fall.

Re-potting should be done whenever the roots become

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. BE

matted or collected at the bottom or sides of the pot;
examine to see if they are healthy; if so, give them a
larger pot; if not, prune off these which are dead, remove
the old soil, and pot in the same size, or smaller, as the
case may require. :

The custom with gardeners is to pot heaths in the spring,
but the grower must be guided by the state of the plant.

Insects give but little trouble, where proper regard is
paid to the plants.

Mealy-bug is sometimes found; the best course to pur-
sue, if the plant. a badly infested, is to throw it away, for
it is almost impossible to remove the insect; if but slightly
affected, pick them off, and wash the plant well with warm
soap-suds; whale oil soap is preferable. The same rules
apply when the plants are troubled with black or brown
scale. rica arborea is particularly subject to attacks of
the former, and from the fine, close nature of its foliage, it
is very difficult to clean.

We have never known our heaths to be troubled by red
spider or by aphis.

In growing ericas, some attention must be paid to prun-
ing, or rather to pinching; the plants should never be

allowed to grow tall and spindling; they should be grown

36 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

near the glass, and, by frequent turning, prevented from
becoming one-sided. Some varieties are of symmetrical
form by nature; others require much care to control the
too luxuriant branches.

Heaths strike freely from cuttings. Take the tops of the
-young shoots, about an inch in length; prepare a pot or
pan of heath soil; cover this with silver sand to the depth
of half an inch; insert the cuttings about half their length,
as thickly as you please; cover them with a glass, and
frequently wipe the moisture from the inner surface of the
glass; keep them slightly moist, and shelter from the direct
rays of the sun.

When rooted, pot off the cuttings into small pots filled
with heath soil, with the addition of a little more sand than
is used for the old plants; as soon as the season permits,
plant them out to make growth. In re-potting plants or
cuttings, care should be taken never to sink the crown of
the root lower than it was before; eee raise than
sink it. |

There is no plant which makes a greater show, or proves
more attractive as a specimen, than the erica. In England,
it is grown in the greatest perfection, some of the plants ©

being twelve feet high, and eight feet in thickness. Cana

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. oT

more superb object than such a plant be imagined, when in
full bloom?

From over five hundred varieties, we cannot be expected
to give all that are deserving of cultivation; as before
remarked, none are destitute of beauty. The periods of
bloom are from January to November; indeed, we may
have heaths in bloom every month in the year. The fol-

lowing list contains a select variety in colors: —

White or Light-Flowered. Arborea, Margaritacea, Grandinosa, Bow-
ieana, Jasminiflora, Conferta, Vestita alba, Odorata, Ventricosa, Pellu-
cida, Wilmoriana, Caffra alba.

Red Flowers. Gracilis, Ignescens, Mediterranea, Caffra rubra.

Scarlet or Crimson. Ardens, Cerinthoides, Hartnelli, Splendens,
Coccinea, Vestita fulgida, Tricolor.

Purple Flowers. Amona, Mammosa, Melanthera mutabilis, Pro-
pendens tubiflora.

Lilac. Baccans, Suavolens.

Yellow. Cavendishii, Depressa, Denticulata.

Green-Flowered. Gelida, Viridiflora, Viridis.

For window culture, the varieties succeeding best are
Caffra rubra and alba, Margaritacea, Arborea, and Medi-
terranea.

We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant,
because it is a general favorite, yet never seen in good

condition in the parlor.

38 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

The plant is very hardy, yet impatient of the least neg-
lect. A single day’s omission to water, or a drenching,
with poor drainage, will kill the plant; yet it will lan-
guish for months, and all your care will fail to restore it.
If the hair-like roots once become parched or sodden, the
plant will die.

We do not pegerimead it for a window plant, yet its
beauty is worth all the care required; and will not some

be fired by ambition to make the heath a window plant?

THE CYCLAMEN.

This pretty flower is too little known. It is a native of
Europe and Asia, some varieties being very abundant in
Switzerland and Italy, and is to be found in almost every
green-house. It is of the easiest culture. Pot about the
latter part of November, in a rich loam, with a dash of
silver sand; an addition of about a spoonful of the old soot
from a flue will increase the size and brilliancy of the
flowers. It must be well incorporated with the soil. Bits
of charcoal, broken fine, serve the same purpose. Place
the crown of the bulb just above the surface of the soil.
The size of the pot must be determined by the size of the

bulb ; as a general rule, cyclamen do not require large pots.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 39

Good drainage is indispensable. Keep the plants cool till
the leaves are well grown, always keeping them near the
glass. When the flower buds begin to rise on the foot
stalks, remove to a sunny shelf, where they will soon
show bloom. By shading, the duration of the flowers is
prolonged. When the bloom is past, gradually withhold
water; the leaves will turn yellow, and the plants should
be kept dry, in a state of rest, all summer. Do not allow
the plants to ripen seed (which they do freely) unless you
desire seedlings, to increase your stock. The seed germi-
nates easily, bona in rich loam, and seedlings bloom the
third year. Some find difficulty in preventing the shrivel-
ling of the bulbs during the summer. Our best cultivators,
to prevent this, bury the bulbs during the summer in the
open border ; take them up about the middle of September,
when they are found fresh, plump, and, in good condition
for a start. There is one risk, however, in this method:
mice are very fond of the bulbs, and sometimes commit
great havoc. There is shown in this plant a curious pro-
vision of Nature: no sooner has the flower faded, than the
stem begins to curl up, and buries the seed capsule in the
ground, at the root of the plant; this is designed to pro-

tect the seed from birds, and to sow it in a congenial soil.

40 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Good-sized, blooming bulbs may be obtained at any
ereen-house, for from fifty cents to one dollar each for the
more common varieties. This bulb is particularly adapted
for window culture, and will give more flowers, with less
trouble, and occupying less space, than any flower we are
acquainted with. The more common varieties are C. Per-
sicum, white, tipped with rich, rosy purple; C. Persicum
album, pure white; C. punctatum, resembling Persicum.
All these flower from January to March. C. Huropeum,
pinkish purple; C. Huropewm album, pure white; C.
hederafolium, very large, rosy purple, a splendid variety.

All these bloom from October to January.

ss ;

\ V7 %

Bright gems of earth, in which perchance we see

What Eden was, what Paradise may be.

CHAPTER. TTI.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THE GERANIUM. THE PELARGONIUM: History.— Culture. — Soil. — Pot-
ting. — Winter Treatment. — Varicties. THE VERBENA: History. —
Culture. — Cuttings. — Summer Culture.— Potting for Winter. — Wa-
tering. — Soil. — Seedlings. — Properties of a good Verbena. — Window
Culture. — Varieties. THE HELIOTROPE: History. — Culture. — Prun-
ing.— Varictics. THE SALVIA, OR MEXICAN SAGE: Summer Culture,

(41)

49 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

— Winter Culture.— Varieties. THE TROPHOLUM, OR NASTURTIUM:
Varieties. — Soil. — Culture. — Varieties of the small Nasturtium.— Win-
dow Culture.

THE GERANIUM.
Ayu7y) NDER this head, we propose to treat

of the plants usually known, in com-
mon parlance, as Geraniums, includ-
ing both those horticulturally and
botanically known as such, and Pelar-
goniums. Between these there are
many minute and fanciful distinc-
tions, which are only interesting to
botanists, and need not concern the
amateur. The true geraniums are
herbaceous. For window gardening, their treatment must
be the same.

For the pelargoniums, we are chiefly indebted to the
Cape of Good Hope; the geranium is found, in some of its
varieties, in Asia, Europe, and America; two of the family,
our ‘‘ wild geraniums,” being familiar to us all as among
the wild flowers of spring.

The scarlet, or horse-shoe geranium, so called from the
color of its flowers, and the dark marking of its leaves, is
a very common and popular window plant. The rose, oak,

8 *

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 43

and nutmeg geraniums are commonly grown for their fra-
grant leaves, and for their hardiness, as they can endure
more hard usage than most plants.

The general fault in geranium culture is, crowding. The
plants need light and air on all sides, and unless this is
afforded they soon become one-sided, long-drawn, and strag-
gling, with but few leaves, and these in a tuft at the end.
The blossoms are small and few, and the whole plant pre-
sents a picture of vegetation under difficulties.

The: fine varieties of pelargonium, called ‘‘ Fancies” by
florists, it is useless to attempt to grow to any perfection in
the house. They need constant care; and the rules for
growing them as specimens, laid down by English florists,
are sufficiently confusing and contradictory to involve the
amateur in a maze of difficulty.

Light, air, and cleanliness are the three primary rules for
growing geraniums. The horse-shoe and high-scented vari-
eties are not troubled by insects. The pelargoniums (large-
flowered geraniums), require constant attention to keep
them free from the green fly, which increases upon them
with wonderful rapidity. If the weather is warm, and the
plants at all affected by the fly, they should be aoalad once
in ten days, and frequently syringed. Surely the beauty of

44 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

the flowers will compensate for any trouble. To prevent
‘‘drawing,”’ that is, the growing of the plants towards the
light, all geraniums should be frequently turned, which will
give a well-proportioned plant. If the plants grow too tall,
pinch out the top; all the axillary buds will then break
into lateral branches. Again, if the side branches become
too close, prune them out fearlessly. ‘The geranium breaks
easily, and you need never be afraid of killing the plant,

even if you prune it down to a bare stump.

Soin.

Pelargoniums and geraniums require a strong soil; that
is, good sound loam, such as will grow melons. The top
of a pasture will answer well. Let it be carted home and
laid up in a long ridge, so as to expose as large a surface to
the air as possible. Keep it clear of weeds, and let it be
turned over every little while. To two parts of this loam,
add one part. of two-year-old cow dung, well turned over.
Old hot-bed dung will do nearly, but not quite as well.
Then add about one part of river sand’ and bits of charcoal,
mixed. Let all these ingredients be kept in separate heaps
till wanted for potting, then mix them in the above propor-

tions, and use them moderately dry. This compost should

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 45

be used to bloom and grow the plants in. For the winter
season, use a small quantity of leaf mould instead of dung.
Fresh soil is always to be preferred, for old soil is apt to

become cloddy and sour.

PorTina.

All being ready, put the drainage in a suitable sized pot.
Place first a suitable crock, or a large oyster shell over the
hole; then lay a few large crocks upon that, and smaller
upon those, so that the drainage may occupy about three
fourths of an inch. Place a thin layer of moss upon the
drainage, and upon that a sprinkling of soot or charcoal
dust; after that a thin layer of the rougher parts of the
compost, and finally a layer of soil. Then turn the plant
out of the old pot, pick out the old drainage, and loosen
part of the old roots, spreading them over the new soil as
much as possible. Then see that the collar of the roots is
just below the rim of the pot, and fill in around the ball
with the fresh soil, pressing it down gently as it is put in.
When the pot is full, give it a smart stroke or two upon the
bench to settle the soil; level it neatly, leaving it about
half an inch below the rim of the pot. This finishes the
potting. Then give .a good watering of tepid water.

46 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

For four or five weeks, while new roots are running into
the fresh soil, they will not need a large supply of water;
but when the roots reach the sides of the pots, and the
leaves and shoots are advancing in growth, then water will
be required in abundance.

They should never be allowed to flag.

After a hot, sunny day, let the plants, in addition to the
water at the roots, have a gentle syringing.- Exercise dis-
cretion, however, on this point.

The geranium is a spring and summer blooming plant.
It is very difficult to obtain a flower from December to
April; therefore, during the winter it should be kept cool,
and moderately dry.

About the first of February re-pot the plants, give more
heat, sun, and water, and your plants will bloom profusely
in May.

The varieties grown only for their leaves may have more

generous culture during the winter months.

VARIETIES.

Ivy-leaved geranium (P. lateripes), is a pretty trailing
species, with ivy-shaped leaves and purple flowers in the

summer. There is also a variety with white flowers. It is

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. — 47

a pretty window plant, and always does well. It needs
plenty of light, sun, and generous culture.

The varieties of horse-shoe geraniums (P. zonale hybrids),
are all good window flowers, and will often bloom in winter.

The following are the best old varieties : —

Scarlet. Dazzle, Tom Thumb, Defiance.

‘Cerise. Cerise unique.

Pink. Rosa mundi.

White. Boule de Neige, Lady Turner.

Variegated Leaved. Flower of the Day, Golden Chain, Alma, Bijou.

These latter varieties need a green-house to develop the
rich colors of the foliage, yet they do well as bedding plants
in the summer.

P. graveolens is the common rose geranium.

THE VERBENA.

There are few plants which lend more beauty to the
flower garden in summer, or enliven the green-house in
the winter and early spring months in a greater degree, than
the verbena. From the variety of colors, the rapidity of
propagation, the little care needed to bloom the plant in per-
fection, and the abundance of blossoms, it is, and always.

must remain, a universal favorite.

48 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

In addition to these advantages, the facility with which
new varieties are raised from seed, render it a favorite with
the amateur; and in no collection do we fail to find the
verbena, in some of its many varieties.

It is a difficult task to prescribe the culture of a plant so
well known, and which will grow and flourish under such a
variety of circumstances, and in such different situations.
As every one has grown verbenas, each has his own peculiar
mode of treatment, if, indeed, a flower req:iiring so little
care can be said to have peculiar treatment.

In writing of a plant, from which seedlings are produced
with such ease, and which sports into such an infinite
variety of colors and shades, we cannot be too careful in
expressing a decided opinion. Every year new seedlings
are ‘‘ brought out,” and latterly the varieties have so mul-
tiplied that it is very difficult to choose those really worthy
of cultivation: the favorite of this spring may, after a year’s
trial, be cast aside as worthless, for it may not be found
worthy of general cultivation, or better varieties may have
been originated.

Our verbena was introduced into England from Buenos
Ayres, where it is indigenous, by Mr. Hugh Cumming, an

ardent lover of nature, about the year 1825.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 49

The first, and for a long time the only variety cultivated,
was Verbena melindres, or chamedrifolia; but it now
appears lost among the new and superior kinds which have
been raised from seed. In form, it has been repeatcdly
excelled, but its creeping habit and abundance of bloom.
must always recommend it, though we doubt if at the
present (ime it can be obtained at any of our green-houses,
and probably few of our younger cultivators have ever seen
this once popular variety. The color is scarlet, and though
perhaps equalled, can never be excelled. Many other
earlier varieties might be mentioned, but, although interest-
ing, it would too much extend the limits of this article.

Verbena multifida, with lilac purple flowers, was intro-
duced from Peru; Verbena Wingate! with rose crimson
flowers, from Brazil; and from these, and a few other
varieties and seedlings, have sprung all the numerous
varieties, many hundred in number, which may be found in
extensive collections. The credit of introducing this plant
into the United States belongs to Robert Buist, of Phila-
delphia. About the year 1835, from seed received from
Buenos Ayres, he raised. the first white, pink, and crimson
verbenas. The plant soon became generally known, and

was every where a favorite; in the floral world it caused

0 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

quite an excitement, and the original kinds were soon sur-
passed, in every respect, by newer seminal varieties.

The culture of the verbena is very simple. ‘The plants
will bloom with very little care, but to grow them in perfec-
tion requires attention; of thousands of plants of any size,
‘scarcely one is a fine specimen. Let us, beginning in early
‘spring, trace the plant, as generally grown, and then see
‘chow much a little care might increase its beauty.

About the first of February, cuttings of the young shoots
are taken from old plants: in a sandy loany a few wecks,
and sometimes a few days, will suffice to root them; they
are then potted off into thumb pots, aie if placed near the
‘glass, will soon show a terminal flower. As soon as the
scason is sufficiently advanced, these young plants are bed-
ded out, and, in favorable seasons, soon form a conspicuous
feature in the flower garden, continuing to bloom till long
after the early frosts. About the first or middle of Septem-
ber, the gardener begins to re-pot his plants for winter, and
the common practice is to take a runner, which has rooted
well at a joint, and, aftcr suitable pruning, to pot it for
winter blooming and propagation.’ Others, again, take up
the old roots, while others, by sinking pots in their verbena

bed, about midsummer, allowed the runners to root directly

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 51

in the pots; the pots being taken up, and the connection
with the mother plant cut, the young plant receives no
injury or check. But this mode is very objectionable, for
two reasons: first, the loam in the pots is apt to become
sour and sodden; and again, earthworms often enter the
pots, and prove injurious during the aes The plants
are housed, and, for a long time, produce no flowers, and
are any thing but ornamental. Soon after the new year,
they begin to grow vigorously, but are allowed to trail care-
lessly over the staging, or droop from some hanging shelf.
No care or attention is bestowed upon them, except to give
the daily supply of water.

The days grow towards spring. Cuttings are again taken
off; the same process is repeated year after year ; and thus
one of our loveliest flowers, which, with a little care, might
be one of the greatest attractions and ornaments of our
green-houses, is never seen in perfection, except in the
garden.

That this is the fact, is to be deplored; yet the remedy
is simple. By beginning about midsummer, we may have
verbenas in bloom as well during the winter as the spring
months. About the first of August, or earlier, cuttings

should be taken from desirable’varicties. In a fortnight

52 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

they will be ready to transplant. Pot them in thumb pots,
and re-pot as soon as the roots touch the sides of the pot.
Keep them in vigorous growth by affording plenty of light
and air, being careful they never suffer from want of water.
Pinch off the leading shoots, to cause all axillary buds to
break, and in no case allow them to bloom. Train the
plant in any form desired, but be careful not to permit it to
grow too straggling. When other plants are housed,
remoye your verbenas to some warm shelf, where they may
have the morning sun, and on every favorable day give
plenty of air, and fumigate well to destroy green aphis.
Your plants will soon be in luxuriant bloom, long before
those potted in the common way have shown a bud, and
will continue to afford an abundance of flowers until late in
the spring. To grow verbenas well in the house in summer
is far easier, They may be bloomed in pots of any size,
and trained in almost any form, the only requisites being
plenty of light and air, careful pruning, and means to
destroy aphis and keep off mildew. 7

One great fault in growing verbenas is the-practice of
watering too copiously. The plant, as originally found,
grows on dry hills; and damp not only produces mildew,
but rots the roots, and thus destroys or produces disease in

the plant.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 53

The proper soil for verbenas, is two parts of loam, two of
leaf mould, with an admixture of sand, and in this we have
found them grow and bloom luxuriantly.

Many verbenas, which for green-house blooming are
unsurpassed, are worthless for bedding purposes; the petal
of the flower being too thin, or the color fading or changing.
Again, some bloom well in winter, others far better in sum-
mer ; some form large masses and flower well, others are of
rambling growth and poor bloomers; some of creeping,
others of more upright habit; while a few possess every
desirable quality ; and in making a selection, all these prop-
erties are to be considered.

We have said that seedlings were produced with great
ease. The verbena seeds well where the plants have not
been too long propagated by cuttings. A long-continued
propagation by cuttings seems to diminish the power of the
plants to produce seed, and, as a general rule, the further
removed a plant is from a seedling, the less the chance of
its perfecting good seed. The seeds may be sown in a hot-
bed or green-house, early in spring, and the plants, when
about an inch and a half high, pricked out in the border;
it is a good plan to pinch out the leading shoot, as thus the
piants branch and become stronger; the plants grow

rapidly, and soon show bloom.

54 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

But to raise a seedling is one thing, to raise a fine seed-
ling, a far different. Of many hundred raised in the course
of the last few years, by the writer, not more than half a
dozen have been worthy of preservation, and only one (and
that produced by chance) really a first-class flower.

In raising seed, much may be done to insure its quality
by planting fine varieties together, and allowing them to
intertwine, then gathering the seed from these plants. No
rule can be laid down to obtain any desired color, for the
seedlings sport infinitely. We can only approximate
towards definite results; thus, if we plant Annie (white)
and Robinson’s Defiance (red) together, the seedling will be
likely to be pink.

The flowers of the verbena are of every color and shade,
except light blue, which color has never been obtained. <A
good yellow verbena has not yet been produced. There is
a miserable variety, with a small truss of dirty yellow
flowers. The writer, some years since, by a curious process
of watering and fertilization with a white verbena, obtained
a seedling, which proved, on blooming, to be of a light straw
color; the plant was weak and sickly, and died before cut-
tings could be taken. Since that time he has tried the

experiment often, but never with any successful result.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 55

The qualities of a first-class verbena, as laid down by
florists, are: roundness of flower, without indenture, notch,
or serrature; petals thick, flat, bright and smooth; the
plant should be compact, with short, strong joints, either
distinctly of a shrubby habit, or a close, ground creeper OF
climber ; the trusses of bloom, compact, standing out from
the foliage, the flowers meeting, but not crowding each
other; the foliage should be short, broad, bright, and
enough to hide the stalk; in the eyed and striped varieties,
the colors should be well defined and lasting, never running
into each other, or changing in the sun.

As a window plant, there is nothing that will give more
bloom than a verbena. Let it be trained on a trellis, and
give it all the sun possible; the more sun, the more bloom.
Pinch the shoots, to prevent its becoming too rambling, and
give air enough, and your work is done.

The production of seedlings, as above directed, is a very
pretty amusement, and very simple. Seedlings will bloom
in three months, from the seed.

Verbenas may be grown to advantage in the garden,
either in masses, as single plants, or upon rock-work ; many

pretty effects may be produced by a careful arrangement of

56 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

colors; they are also well adapted for hanging pots and for
vases, in which they will bloom profusely.

There is no flower which, if properly grown, will better
repay the care required, and none which will show so well
with but little attention, and we trust that these few
remarks may iead to a more careful cultivation of this beau-

tiful plant.

THE HELIOTROPE.

This plant is always admired for its fragrance, and will
ever be a favorite for window culture.

It is a native of Peru, and has been in our gardens since
the year 1757.

The details of culture are similar to those prescribed for
the verbena; the soil should be strong’ loam, with a little
sand and manure.

The heliotrope is seldom grown as well as it should be.
It should have frequent re-pottings, and be allowed to grow
large. We have seen them in parlors, in large tubs on
wheels, and eight feet high. Such plants are in themselves
bouquets of beauty, being always covered with ficwers.
Train the main stems of the plant to a trellis, and let the

branches droop naturally, and as they will gracefully. The

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. OF

:
plant bears the knife well, and breaks freely, so it can be
, trained into any shape. 7
The common variety is H. corymbosuwm, then the oldest,
A. Peruvianum; H. Volterianum is a fine dark variety,
but not so strong growing.
Florists’ catalogues contain many varieties, but the above

are the best for general culture.

THE SALVIA.

This plant is only valuable as a window plant in summer
and early autumn. The chief variety cultivated is the Scarlet
Mexican Sage (8. splendens), introduced from Mexico about
forty years ago. It is a rank growing shrub, with long,
jointed stalks, crowned with rich, scarlet eee The best
way to grow it is to set the plant in rich soil in the garden
in spring. It will grow vigorously. About the last of |
September pot it (it transplants easily), shade it for a few
days, then remove it to a sunny window, where it will
delight you with its brilliant blossoms for two months.
Then keep it cool until spring, and repeat the operation
until the plant becomes so large as to be unmanageable ;

then spring cuttings must be taken off and rooted.

wy

58 ‘ PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

‘fhe proper soil is, three parts loam, one leaf mould,
one manure, with a sprinkling of sand.

Salvia patens is an exquisite blue flowered variety. It
blooms well in the garden in summer, and the fleshy roots
may be preserved like a dahlia through the winter.

There are many other fine varieties.

THE TROPAZOLUM.

This flower, from its earliest discovery and introduction,
has been a popular favorite. As year by year newer varieties
have been discovered, or finer seedlings raised from old
favorites, it has steadily advanced in favor, till now, the
rich man’s choicest ‘green-house and the poor man’s garden
alike boast some of the varieties of this beautiful plant. In
the limits of a short article, like the present, it will be
impossible, of course, to give a detailed description, or even
to mention all the varieties ; many are only desirable in a
collection, being of inferior beauty; while others are rare,
or of difficult culture, and therefore found only in the green-
houses of amateurs. |

The different varieties of tropzeolum divide themselves
into three distinct classes. First, those with bulbous, or

rather tuberous roots, such as Tropeolum azureum and

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 59

others. Second, those with large, round leaves, and large
showy, often coarse, flowers, as the various varicties of T’ro-
peolum majus. Third, those with small, delicate, regu-
larly-formed flowers, with smaller leaves, and more of climb.
ing rather than trailing habit, such as 7. Lobbianum.
We are aware that this division is imperfect; that some
varieties partake of the characteristics of more than one
class, and that others are with difficulty included in any of
the three ; and to any one acquainted with all the different
varieties, the difficulty of classification will be at once
apparent. We shall, therefore, only attempt this general
division ; leaving a particular description to be given when
we treat of each variety. The soil to be used in the culture
of the tropzeolum is, for the bulbous varieties, leaf-mould
and peat, with an admixture of fine sand; for the other
classes, an addition of more sand is to be advised, as care
must be taken not to enrich the soil too highly, for in a rich
soil, with plenty of room to develop the roots, the plants are
apt to run all to leaves. This may be prevented in two
ways, either by giving a poor soil, or by allowing the roots
to become ‘‘ pot-bound,” and nourishing the plant by slight
waterings of liquid manure; they generally fail to give

satisfaction if the soil is close, heavy, and binding. All

60 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

the varieties, we believe, are readily propagated by cuttings,
and many produce seed in abundance. Some succeed better

-if allowed to trail on the ground; others are so delicate as |
to need constant attention and careful training. Some are
hardy in England, though to our knowledge none have ever
been able to survive our severe winters in the open ground,
or protected in frames. All the varieties are of the most
rapid growth, and are mostly free flowerers; none are desti-
tute of some beauty, while the greater number are remark-
able for the combinations of aeraling colors which they
afford. The prevailing color is yellow in its different
shades; next, red; then dark; and lastly, a most extraor-
dinary fact, which puzzled the botanists, a beautiful blue.
It had been asserted and argued, with great show of reason,
that a flower, of which all the known varieties, or the gen-_
eral types, were of red, yellow, or cognate colors, could, by
no possibility, be found related to a plant with blue flowers,
or could there be a blue flowering plant in the same class.
The discovery of a blue tropzolum, in 1844, completely
refuted this theory. In the treatment of the tropzeolum, it
is essential for the good health of the plants that they
should enjoy plenty of light and air; without this, they can-

not fail to become sickly or unsightly from faded leaves and

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 61

small flowers. A supply of water should be given with the
syringe, overhead, occasionally, which will conduce to the
vigor of the plant, and destroy the red spider, which some-
times attacks the leaves. The plant, in all its varieties, is
remarkably free from disease or insects; we have occasion-
ally had the more delicate varieties troubled by green fly,
‘and by mealy bug, but very little care will prevent this.
. The chief danger seems to lie in the decaying of the roots
by over-watering when in growth, or by not withholding
water when they are in a state of rest. These remarks, of
course, apply only to the bulbous varieties. Sometimes we
have known the roots of the summer-blooming varieties to

be attacked by the root aphis, but this is unfrequent. The
foliage is of too fiery a taste to be subject to the attacks of
insects.

With these few remarks we will proceed to the descrip-
tion of the different varieties, noting any peculiarity in the
habits of each, or any peculiar mode of culture which may
be best adapted to its nature.

The oldest and best known variety is TRoPZOLUM MAJUS,
the common nasturtium of our gardens —a native of Peru,
but very early introduced. This occurs in a variety of

colors, and under a variety of names. The colors are

62 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

chiefly red, yellow, very dark, and all the intermediate
shades; or, again, red upon yellow in spots, shadings,
stripes, or bands, or yellow upon red or dark ground.
Scarce two flowers, unless self-colored, will be found al'ke,
and there is no prettier sight than a flower bed filled with
this variety, the various colored flowers contrasting finely
with the large round leaves. At any seed store, varieties
may be obtained ;. and by a little care in planting the seeds,
a beautiful effect may be produced. This species is of the
easiest culture, and will grow almost without care; it is
well adapted for covering rock-work, or any unsightly spot,
producing from the latter part of June until killed by the
frost, a constant succession of brilliant flowers and orna-
mental foliage. All the varieties of this species are annual,
and are propagated either by seeds, which are freely pro-
duced, or by cuttings of half-ripened wood, which root freely
in sand. |

TROPHOLUM MAJUS ATROSANGUINEUM is only a very fine
variety, as its name implies, of the above. ‘It was intro-
duced into England as early as the year 1684. The
required soil is light and rich; it flowers freely ; increased
by seeds and cuttings.

It would be useless to attempt a description of the

a prey

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 63

varieties of Tropceolum majus; so constantly do they
change, that each year, as newer seedlings are produced,
the older are forgotten and lost. All are well worthy of
cultivation, and some of the varieties should be in every
garden. We have seen a double variety, but it was evi-
dently a mere sport, which was only propagated and pre-
served as a curiosity in a collection’; the colors were con-
fused, and the blossom destitute of beauty.

We pass now to the varieties of Tropeolum minus, being
those comprised in our last class, and seemingly only
reduced specimens of Tropwolum majus. We have seen it
stated that this variety was introduced before Tropeolum
majus, but we believe the best authorities agree on the
latter being the oldest known variety. Be this as it may,
both were known in Europe at a very early period. The
plants of Tropeolum minus, and its varieties, may always
be distinguished from those of Tropceolwm majus, and its
varieties, by the leaves; in the former, the nerves of the
leaves always end in a point, which is never the case with
those of the latter.

TROPHOLUM LOBBIANUM, sometimes called 7. peltopho-
yum. One of the very finest ; first collected by Mr. Lobb,

in Columbia. A rampant grower, and free flowerer in the

64 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

green-house; color of flowers, orange scarlet. The tem-
perature of the house to bloom it well, should be kept
about fifty degrees; a slight watering of liquid manure should |
occasionally be given. It does not succeed well with us in
the open border; our summers are too short, and the plants
are apt to be nipped by the frost just as they are fully set
with flower buds; it strikes freely from cuttings, and pro-
duces seed sparingly. Most of our fine, new varieties are
probably hybrids between this and the following.

TROPHZOLUM PULCHERRIMUM. | Like the last, a rampant
grower ; color of flowers, bright yellow, with starry rays of
orange scarlet at the base of the petal; a free flowerer in
the green-house. Culture like the last.

Tropzotum Smiruiu. A brilliant red variety, a native
of the high mountains of Columbia; treat as 7. majus;
will bloom well in the open border. |

TropzoLtum Ranpi. <A very fine seedling of Mr.
Joseph Breck’s; a very vigorous grower; the writer has, in
one summer, had one side of a large green-house covered by
a small plant. This variety has the desirable property of
blooming equally well as a border plant in the summer and
in the green-house in winter. The color of the flower is

briliant yellow; the base of each petal marked with a

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 65

round black spot; the flowers are often veined with purplish
red, sometimes very deeply, and, from a large plant, often
dozens of blossoms, all of different shades, may be gathered;
this is particularly the case in the green-house; in the bor-
der, the colors are more constant. This is probably from
its abundant flowers and free habit, the most popular
variety of its color, among gardeners for bouquet purposes,
and, though of comparatiyely recent introduction, is very
widely disseminated. Propagated by cuttings; produces
seed sparingly.

TROPZOLUM PERIGRINUM, ADUNCUM, or CANARIENSE,
commonly known as Gee bnd flower. A very lovely and
popular variety ; grows about ten feet high, and blooms well
if the soil is not too rich. It is commonly cultivated as a
gammer border plant, but will bloom well in the green- |
house. To this end, plants should be struck during the
summer, and grown with plenty of light and air; let the
soil be loam, and well rotted manure, with a little sand;
do not give the roots too much pot room, and water occa-
sionally with liquid manure. Plants may also be raised
from seed, but they flower less freely than those struck from
cuttings. This lovely variety is too well known to need

description.

66 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant,
because it is the best climbing window plant we have.
Give it sun, and it will be a mass of bloom all winter. A
pretty way is to train it up the side and across the window
on strings. Do not, however, give it a very large pot, or it

will all run to leaves. It should also have a sandy soil.

i

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,

en. bright

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All

her holy offsprin

ith these,
As though some gentle ange

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e to bear,

, and left her footprints

commissioned lov

ty

er the greensward

1

,

there.

CHAPTER LV,

— Description. — Soil. — Pruning. — Wa-

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED.

History.

CHINA ROSE:

ROSES.

History. — Culture. — Varieties.

TEA ROSE
History. — Culture. — Varieties.

tering. — Varicties.

BOURBON

Indian

Pink. — Carnation.— Difference between Carnation and Picotee.— Classes.
— Soil. — Potting. — Care of Flowers.— Culture out of doors. — Prop-

PINKS

ROSES

(67)

68 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

agation. — Layers. — Pipings. — List of Carnations and Picotees. Fucn-
SIAS: History. — Growth. — How to direct it.-— Wintering. — Soil. —
Varicties.

SjN continuing our list of plants adapt-
ed for window gardening, we come
to the queen of flowers, .the Rose.

A book, rather than a portion of

a chapter, should be devoted to this
flower; but as our space is limited, we must
* with a word, dismiss the large divisions of
June, Hardy or Hybrid Perpetuals, Pro-
vence, Damask, Galic, Moss, Climbing, Austrian,
Noisette, and Banksian Roses, each of which would require
a separate treatise, and confine ourselves to the China,
Bourbon, and Tea families.

Many of the others are of great value for the green-
house, some being, in our climate, purely green-house
roses, and ethers being invaluable for forcing; but none
succeed with parlor culture, though many are well known
in the garden, and may claim more than a passing mention
when we come to the concluding portion of our book,
the Flower Garden and Shrubbery.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 69

CHINA ROSE.

And, first, the China rose. While treating of paren-
tage, we may also include the tea rose, which, with the
China, comes from the same ancestor, the Rosa Indica and
its varieties. From this stock come all the China and tea-
scented roses, which, by skilful hybridization, are now so
multiplied that already their name is legion. Prop-
erly speaking, the three roses which are the oldest, and
may be considered parents of the race, are Rosa Indica,
the common Chinese ‘tose, 2. semperflorens, the crimson or
sanguinea rose, and ff. odorata, the Chinese or sweet-
scented tea rose-

The China rose and its hybrids are usually stout growing,
and sometimes of a close, twiggy habit. With us they
will not endure the winter without protection, but south of
Baltimore, stand out uninjured.

They are the common rose of window gardening, and
are known as “ monthly roses.” The colors vary from
white to deep crimson or red, running through all the
shades of blush and pink.

They are often exposed for sale in early spring at the

corners of streets and in the market places, every little

70 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

shoot being crowned with a bud or flower. The foliage is
generally smooth, glossy, and fine cut, clothing every little
twig, and of a lively, fresh appearance.

It will survive almost any treatment, and will live if but
a ray of sunlight can reach it. It is the poor man’s friend,
and clings to him in every vicissitude; yet, while possess-
ing adaptability to circumstances in a remarkable degree,
no plant will better repay care and attention. Cleanliness,
washing, and syringing are essential to good health; give
plenty of light, and it will repay you by abundance of
bloom. Though as its common names (daily or monthly
rose) imply, it will not bloom every day, yet there will sel-
dom be a day when it will not have a flower or a bud
upon it. It will ask you, too, for an occasional smoking ;
for the green fly is very fond of the delicate juices of its
young shoots, and this indeed of all roses.

Do not give it too large a pot. Roses will.do well in
smaller pots, in proportion to their size, than almost any
other plant.

Sorn.

Yet the soil must be rich and well mixed. It should

consist of four parts of the richest black loam, or leaf

mould, two parts of well-rotted manure, with a slight ad-

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. vii

mixture of fine sand. This soil should not be sifted, but
lumpy, yet well mixed together.

In potting, as much of the old soil as can be taken off
without breaking the roots, should be removed, and the
plant set just up to the neck or collar, on the new soil;
settle the earth well around the plant, and give a gentle
i watering from the fine rose of a watering pet. Pruning
should be done as required; the eyes will break any where;
therefore, whenever a branch becomes too long or un-
sightly, cut it in; there need be no fear of injuring the
plant.

If they have been planted out in the garden during the
summer, on removal to the house in the autumn they will
need a severe pruning. Cut off the young wood to within
a few inches of the old wood, and give the plants a little
rest, by giving less water and little heat; when you wish
them to bloom, bring them into full sunlight, give more
heat, and, as soon as the young branches have begun to
push, give plenty of water. Every eye will produce a
shoot, crowned with one or more buds; after blooming,
shorten in the blooming branches about one half; new eyes
will push, and a second display of bloom be the result. In.

watering roses, care must be taken not to render the soil

12 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

cold and sodden; water should never stand round the
roots; frequent stirring of the surface of the soil is very
beneficial. A few bits of charcoal, broken fine and mixed
with the earth, will impart the richest brilliancy to the
flowers.

The following list of China roses will be found to include
‘tthe best old varieties. New hybrids are constantly pro-
duced, and all of this class make good window plants.

China roses are called also ‘‘ Bengal” roses.

List of China Roses.

1. Agrippina, or Cramoisi Superiew. Rich, velvety crimson, very
-double.

2. La Superbe. Purple crimson, very double, flowers always opening
well.

3. Eels Blush. <A proftise bloomer; flowers large and double, resem-
bling a tea rose. ;

4. Indica, or Common Daily. Dark blush or rose color; free grower
and profuse bloomer. This is the common “monthly rose.”

5. Indica Alba. A white variety of the last, of more slender growth,
but double and free flowering.

6. A dwarf form of R. Indica, called “ Fairy Rose,” Tom Thumb,
Lavwreneana, is a pretty little miniature rose, very double, and about as
large as a dime or half dime.

7. Mrs. Bousanquet. Creamy blush, very fine; by some classed as a }
Bourbon, which it seems to be. It is very distinct from other Chinas.

8. Semperflorens, or “ Sanguinca.”? Very double; cupped; rich
crimson. Every where grown and appreciated.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. ‘eS

9. Jacksonia. Bright red, very double.

10. Louis Philippe. Dark crimson; globular.

Il. Eugene Hardy. White, changing to blush.

12. Eugene Beauvharnais. Bright amaranth, very fine form, and
fragrant.

There are many others which may be found in florists’
catalogues.

Fr one rose for bloom, choose No. 8; for two, Nos. 8
and 8; for three, Nos. 8, 8, and 12; for four, add No. 4;

for five, add No. 2; for six, No. 9 or 1.

TEA ROSES.

The original rose (#. odorata) was only introduced about
1812, and from this have sprung our many fine varieties.
The treatment required is identical with that of the China
rose; yet a richer soil, and more heat and light, may be
afforded to advantage. ‘The former is easily done by in-
‘creasing the proportion of manure in potting.

They also need more care, and are not so patient under
neglect. For summer bedding in the garden, they are un-
surpassed. Usually their growth is more deélicate and
graceful than that of the China varieties.

The following list includes some of the best varieties,

which may be relied upon for window or garden growth.

74. _ PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

They will not bear our winters unprotected. This list

may be multiplied fourfold from catalogues : —

. Adam. Bright pink; large and cupped.

. Comte de Paris. Creamy rose; large and fine.

Caroline. Bright, rosy pink or flesh-colored; large and very fine.
4. Gloire de Dijon. Yellow, shaded with salmon and rose; an im-

mense flower; very full; not always opening well with window culture;

a

by some, considered a ‘‘ Bourbon.”

5. Clara Sylvain. Pure white; double; very fragrant.

6. Yellow Tea. Pale yellow; long, beautiful bud; very fine.

7. Elise Sauvage. Bright yellow, fading to white ; large and fine.

8. Madame Desprez. White; very fragrant.

9. Safrano. Fawn color or saffron; sometimes rosy; not very
double, but fine in the bud.

10. Triomphe de Luxembourg. Buff salmon, shading to rose.

11. Souvenir d’un Ami. Rose and salmon; fine.

12. Goubault Rose. Yellow centre; large and fine,

13. Le Pactole. Lemon yellow; very fine.

14. Bougére. Browzy, rosy lilac; a strong grower.

15. Odorata. Fine blush, well cupped.

16. Bon Silene. Rosy salmon.

For one rose of this class, for window culture, we should select
No. 15; then add No. 9, No. 12, No. 14, No. 5, No. 2, No. 1.

BOURBON ROSES.

The union of the Damask Perpetual with the China rose
has produced the new and distinct race known as Bour-
bons. They have a peculiar habit and foliage, are free,
vigorous growers, and much hardier than the China rose.

In the Middle States, they are perfectly hardy, and will

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. to

endure our winters with but slight protection. As bedders,
they are unsurpassed, and bloom during the whole summer.
They are usually wintered in frames, like the China and
tea roses. For window gardening, they are not as suitable
as those species, yet their beauty renders them worthy of a
permanent place, where space can be given, and for green-
house and conservatory blooming, they are magnificent.

Their treatment is identical with that of the species
above described.

The following are fine varieties: —

Bouquet de Flore. Light, rosy carmine.

Dr. Roque. Purplish crimson.

Gloire de Dijon. See tea roses.

Madame Desprez. See tea roses.

Dupetit Thouars. Bright crimson; very showy.

Leveson Gower. Deep rose; very large.

Souvenir dela Malmaison. Pale flesh color, very large and fine.

Queen of Bourbons. Fawn-colored blush; a free bloomer.

Sir Joseph Paxton. Deep rose; very fine.

Paul Joseph. Purplish violet.

Hermosa. Light blush or rose color; very fine form,

George Peabody. Dark, velvety crimson.
Mrs. Bosanquet. Pale flesh color; good form; very fine.

The most satisfactory method of growing roses is to
build a small pit for them. Plant them out in a rich soil,

and they will bloom summer and winter. Very little heat

76 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

is required to winter them safely, and the sashes being
entirely removed in summer, all the benefit of growth in
the open air is obtained. On the approach of frosty
nights, the sashes are put on, and the roses bloom all
winter.

THE } PINK.

Next to the rose, this is a favorite flower, and as a win-
dow .plant, does equally well in spring and summer.

We shall at once dismiss the garden, Indian, and florists’
or Paisley pinks, and confine ourselves to the carnation and
picotee, these being the varieties for window culture.

Yet a word for the double crimson Indian pink. It is a
pretty little flower, always in bloom, and only needs light
and a rich loam to make it a beautiful window plant.

The best way to procure it is to buy seed; sow it in the
spring, in the garden, and on the approach of frost, pot
the plants for winter blooming. It may then be easily
increased by slips or layering.

The carnation pink is a very old inhabitant of our gar-
dens. It is said to have been introduced into cultiya-
tion from Italy or Germany before 1510.

The question is often asked, What is the difference he-

tween a carnation and a picotee? None, botanically; it is

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. aah i

purely a florist’s distinction. The carnation has the marks
on its petals, from the centre to the edge, in flakes or
stripes of colors, on a white ground. The picotee has a
white or yellow ground, the edges of the petals being
fringed with various shades of red and purple.

Carnations are divided into five classes, namely:
1. Scarlet Bizarres; 2. Pink or Crimson Bizarres; 3. Scar-
let Flakes; 4. Rose Flakes; 5. Purple Flakes.

Bizarre is derived from the French, meaning odd or
irregular. ‘The flojvers in these classes have three colors,
which are irregularly placed on each petal. Scarlet Bizarres
have that color predominating over the purple or crimson ;
but the Pink or Crimson Bizarres have more of these colors
than the Scarlet. Scarlet Flakes are simple white grounds,
with distinct stripes or ribbons of scarlet. Rose and Pur-
ple Flakes have these two colors upon a white ground.

Picotees are divided into seven classes: .1. Red, heavy-
edged; 2. Red, light-edged; 38. Rose, heavy-edged ;
4. Rose, light-edged; 5. Purple, heavy-edged; 6. Purple,
light-edged; 7. Yellow ground, without any distinction as
to the breadth of the edge color.

Pinks, both picotees and carnations, are of little use as

house plants until well into the spring; if however, they

78 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

are grown, they should be kept cool, and rather dry; there
is nothing gained by trying to force them. The best
method of growing them is in the open border, preserving
them in a cold frame through the winter. If grown in
pots, they are much more difficult of management. In the
open border, they bloom in June, July, and later, and are
an indispensable ornament. We do not recommend the
pink as a window flower, but have been constrained to
include it in our list, as it is a favorite flower.

The rules we give are very full, and apply both to the
window, the cold frame, and the garden; they are com-
piled from English authorities, and possess little claim to

originality.

PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT.

Soil for Culture in Pots. Get the turf from an upland
pasture; take off about three inches thick, and keep it in
a heap for a year, to cause the grass roots to decay and
mellow the soil; chop it, and turn it over four or five times
during the year; it will be in finer condition for use.
During this, the worms and grubs, especially wire worms,
should be picked out, for it is frequently the case that the

soil best adapted to the carnation contains its greatest

PLANTS FOR WINDOW. GARDENING. 19

enemy. Before being used, the soil should be passed
through a coarse sieve or screen, and the fibre rubbed
through with the soil. The soil in which the plants are
bloomed, and that in which they are kept in small pots
through the winter, should be different, for in the latter they
are not required to make much progress, and the less they
are excited in autumn and winter the better, provided they
make steady progress and preserve their health. This can
only be secured by abstaining from the use of stable dung,
using pure loam, and such decayed vegetable matter as is
afforded by the grass naturally growing in loam when the
turves are cut. Neither should the loam be too adhesive,
but sufficiently porous to allow the water to percolate
freely; should it not be so aeiurally: a little sand may be
used to lighten it. In preparing the soil for blooming the
plants, take of this loam three parts, well decomposed leaf
mould one ‘part, thoroughly rotted cow dung one part (if
this cannot be obtained, hot-bed manure, well decomposed,
in fact, reduced to a fine, black mould, may be substituted),
and of sandy peat, one part. A small portion of old lime
rubbish, slightly sifted, will be of service to the plant,
mixed among the compost. | Being duly mixed, in sufficient
quantity, let it be brought under shelter to dry some time

before the potting season.

30 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

~ On receiving the plants from the nursery, if in the fall,
they should be potted, as above, in four-inch pots, giving
two inches of crocks at the bottom for drainage, and nearly
filling the pot with the earth, but highest in the middle,
and spreading the roots as much as possible all around
alike. The soil is only just to cover the roots, and to be
pressed gently to them, and in this state, after watering, to
settle the loam about their roots, they should be placed in a
common garden frame, upon a hard bottom, into which the
waste water, when refreshed, cannot soak, but with a very
gentle slope, that any water which runs through the pots
may run away. In the winter management, the chief
object is, to give all the air they can have in mild weather
by taking the lights off; to give them water very seldom,
and never till they absolutely want it. If to be grown in
pots, they should be re-potted early in twelve-inch pots,
two or three plants in a pot, using the soil above directed.
Let there be at least three inches drainage. In putting
them in those large pots, let the ball of earth be turned
out whole, rub off a little of the surface, and, after having
filled the large pot high enough with the compost, place the
ball so that the collar of the plant, which is just above the
surface of the old ball, be within half an inch of the edge

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 8]

of the pot; put the soil around it; press it down between
the ball and the side, and fill the whole up level with the
collar of the plant and the edge of the pot. Let them all
be placed in a sheltered spot, and refreshed with water
when they require it, which will be more or less frequently,
according as the season be dry or wet. Let each pot have
a stake in the centre, to which the plants may be closely
tied as they rise up for bloom. When they show their
buds, remove all but three, and the flowers will be the
finer, and not more than one blooming shoot may be left on
each plant. When the buds have swollen, and are about
to burst, tie a piece of bass matting round the middle, and
carefully open the calyx down to the tie, at all the divisions,
as the flower can then open all around alike; otherwise,
they frequently burst on one side, and it is then difficult to
form an even flower. As the petals develop themselves,
they should be shaded from the sun and rain, either of
which would damage the flowers. Culture in pots is sel-
dom resorted to in this country, unless it be for exhibition
purposes; and it is for the benefit of amateurs, who wish
to grow them for that purpose, that we have given such
minute directions. :

Culture in Beds and the Flower Border. This is the
6

$2 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

most common method in this country, culture in pots being
attended with more trouble, and occupying more time, than
can usually be given.

They succeed admirably in any good garden loam, pro-
vided it is well drained; wet or moisture, when over
abundant, is very injurious. The soil should be trenched |
to the depth of eighteen inches in the fall, enriching it at
- the same time with leaf mould and cow’s manure, thor-
oughly rotted; should the soil be heavy, an addition of
refuse charcoal, lime rubbish, or sand, will be beneficial,
leaving the surface rough, that the frost of winter may act
upon it. In the spring, the beds should be again thor-
oughly spaded to the depth of one foot, and raked smooth;
after which the plants should be turned out of the pots,
leaving ‘the ball entire, and planted two feet apart each
way. The after treatment may be the same as recom-
mended for pot culture.

Propagation. By layers and pipings, for increasing
approved sorts, and by seed for the production of new
varieties.

By Layers. The time for performing this operation is
when the plants are in full bloom, or a little past. The
shoots of the plant, around the bottom, should then be

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 83

brought down to the ground, and, when rooted, separated
from their parent. ‘The materials needed for layering are a
sharp, small knife, a quantity of notched pegs, and some
finely-sifted soil. Choose a dull, cloudy day on which to
perform this work; or, if the plants are in pots, they may
be layered in any weather. Begin by trimming off the
leaves from the bottom of a shoot, leaving the two upper-
most on, and entire. Trim off the lower leaves on every
shoot before layering one, because, when a layer is tongued,
it is easily broken off. When this is done, take hold of
the shoot, turn it up, and pass the knife blade through the
third joint upward, commencing the cut just below it; then
reach a hooked peg, thrust it into the soil, catching hold,
by its hook, of the layer as it descends, and press it gently
down to the soil. Do the next in the same manner, and
so on until every shoot is layered, then cover them all with
the sifted mould, about three quarters of an inch deep, and
the process is completed; then give a slight watering, and
the layers require no further care, but watering, until they
are rooted, which will be in about a month or six weeks.
When sufficiently rooted, pot them off into five-inch pots,
& pair in each; or, if your space is limited, and the layers

small, three may be put into each pot. After they are

84. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

potted, they should be placed under glass, in a cold frame
or pit, plenty of air given in mild weather, and shelter from
severe frost, when it occurs. Very little water is required
during the winter months, and the air in the frames should
be as dry as possible. Should damp prevail, the plants,
some fine day, should be taken out, and a coat of fine, dry
coal ashes spread over the surface. The plants should then
be replaced in the pit. |

By Pipimgs. Carnations may be propagated by this
mode, where there is the convenience of a gentle hot-bed.
It is, however, not so safe as layering; but when there are
more shoots than can be layered, and it is desirable to
propagate largely, the superfluous shoots may be piped.
Cut off the lower part of the shoot, up to the third joint,
trim off the lowest pair of leaves, and pass the knife just —
through the joint. Prepare a pot, by draining it, and filing
it with the compost up to within an inch of the top; fill
that inch with silver sand, water it gently to make it firm,
and then insert the piping all around it, close to the pot
sides; place them in a gentle hot-bed, shading from the
sun; watch them daily, and supply water when the sand
becomes dry. When they are rooted, which they will

show by sending up fresh leaves, pot them in pairs,

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 85

as directed for layers, and treat them in the same
manner.

By Seeds. The seeds may be sown, during the spring
months, in boxes or pans filled with the same description
of soil as before recommended. Let the surface of the soil
be made even, and the seed, evenly scattered over it, cover
them to the depth of a quarter of an inch with finely sifted
mould. If early in the season, the pans may be put in a
moderate hot-bed, just to cause the seeds to germinate, but
must not be long kept there for fear of weakening and
drawing the plants. Without artificial heat, the seeds may
be sown in May, placing the pans or boxes in an open, airy
part of the garden, but shaded from the sun, at least from
ten in the morning till four in the afternoon. Moderate
‘moisture will be indispensable, but if the soil be kept too
wet, the plants are liable to damp off, or to be otherwise
injured. When the plants have acquired six leaves, and
are about two inches high, they should be pricked out in
rows six inches apart, keeping them well watered until they
have taken fresh root. About the beginning of October,
they should be potted for the convenience of wintering.
Plant out in the spring, in a bed prepared as before

directed. As soon as the blossoms can be seen, all the

86 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

single sorts should be taken up and thrown away, to give
the double ones more room to grow. The finer blossoms
ought then to be selected for layering or piping.

The following list comprises a few of the varieties :—-

CARNATIONS. PICOTEES.
Admiral Curzon, Esther,
Coriolanus, Prince Albert,
General Simpson, Amy Robsart,
King of Carnations, Haidee,
Falconbridge, Ophelia,
Acca, Princess Royal,
Squire Trow, Lamia,
Valentine, Duke of Newcastle,
Benedict. Ganymede.

THE FUCHSIA.

If by a window plant we mean one which blooms in
winter, then the Fuchsia is not a window plant. A fow
solitary blooms may be produced during the spring, but the
summer is its season of glory.

As a pot plant, for summer blooming, it is unsurpassed,
being very floriferous, of brilliant foliage, and symmetrical
habit. All of our garden varieties te hybrids, from
ancestors introduced from South America and Mexico.

Strange to say, there is a New Zealand species also. The

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 87

first, I’. coccinea, was introduced from Chili, just before the
year 1800.

The plant is of the easiest culture; the growth is rapid,
and a young spring cutting will make a ldrge plant by
autumn. ‘The secret of growing the plant is, never to let
it stop growing until you have it of the desired blooming
size; keep re-potting, as soon as the roots touch the pot,
until you get it into a twelve-inch pot, which is large
enough for the window blooming of a fuchsia. Give plenty
of light and air; turn the plant frequently, lest it grow
one-sided, and fumigate when needed to kill green fly.
The best form to grow a young plant is the pyramidal.
Train up a leading shoot, and if the plant is supplied with
pot room and plenty of light, and has not heat enough to
draw it out weak, it will form side shoots in sufficient
abundance to produce a handsome outline, the branches
being allowed to take their own pendent form. The plant
may also be prettily grown on a flat trellis. The best place
for a fuchsia in winter is a dry cellar, free from frost,
where they should be kept nearly dry. About the first of
March prune back all the side shoots, and leave only the
upright stem; prune in the roots also, and re-pot them in

as small a pot as will hold the roots;. as the eyes break,

88 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

thin out those which are not needed, leaving enough to
give plenty of side branches. Re-pot, and treat as above
directed. Bok:

Sort. *

One part of peat, one of loam, and one of leaf mould
will grow them well; thcroughly mix the component parts,
and break it rather fine; be careful to secure good
drainage.

VARIETIES.

Every spring gives us a host of new varieties, most of
which are discarded in a few years. The white corollaed
varieties are generally of weak growth, and not adapted for
culture out of the green-house. Those with a double co-
rolla we do not admire; the multiplication of floral leaves’
detracts much from the simple beauty of the flower; they
are, however, valuable in a collection, and very showy.

Fuchsia coccinea is a pretty species, with purple and
white sepals and corolla. |

Fuchsia serratifolia, a species with scarlet tube, tipped
with green, blooming in winter.

There are some twenty other species, which are beautiful
in a green-house, but valueless for window growth.

The following hybrid varieties are all fine: —

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 89

Venus de Medicis, Tube white, sepals blush white, corolla deep blue;
fine habit. ‘

‘Etoile du Nord. Bright scarlet sepals and tube; corolla black violet.
with short, reflexed sepals.

Souvenir de Chiswick. Tube and sepals rosy, crimson, violet: co-
rolla fine.

Ajax. <A fine, dark variety.

Empress Eugenie. Crimson sepals, white corolla.

England's Glory. Fine white; scarlet corolla.

Globosa. Scarlet; purple corolla.

Glory. Crimson; violet corolla.

Lady of the Lake. Crimson blush; white corolla.

Mrs. Story. Scarlet sepals; white corolla.

Wonderful. Scarlet tube and sepals; violet corolla.

Queen Victoria, La Crinoline, Omar Pasha, Nil Desperandum, Duch«
ess of Lancaster, Climax, Guiding Star, Rose of Castile, Roi des Blanes,
Prince Frederic William, are all fine varieties.

IBMING AOWETS ether stevie hse ae
They speak of Hope to the fainting heart;

With a voice of promise they come and part.
They sleep in dust through the winter hours 3;

They break forth in glory! Bring flowers, bright flowers.

- wwii

(AUNVAIAN

EZ

CHAPTER OF,
PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED.

MyrTLE: History. — Soil.— Culture.— Varieties. ACHAENIA: Ease uf
growing.— Soil. ABUTILON: Culture.—Soil.— Varieties. THUNBER-
GIA: Sowing. — Training. — Insects. — Soil. — Varieties. ALOYSIA, OR
LEMON VERBENA: Culture.— Soil.— Watering. CALLA: Resting.—
Blooming.— Soil. CupHEA: Culture.— Potting.—Soil. Cactus: Di-
visions of the Family.— Cerews: Summer Treatment. — Pruning. — Wa-

(90)

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. )1-

tering. — Varicties of Cereus.— Epiphylium: Soil.— Varieties. TMyDRAN-
GEA: Culture.—Soil.— Effect of Iron. AGAPANTHUS: Soil.— Win-
tering. — Watering. — Varieties. OLEANDER: Flowering.— Soil.— Va-
rictics. PITTOSPORUM: Varieties.—Soil. JASMINE: Soil.—Culture
— Water.— Varicties. CALCEOLARIA: Sowing. — After Culture. — Soil.
MAHERNIA: Description.— Soil.— Varieties. PrimuLa: Sowing. —
Treatment. — Soil.— Description. SoOLANUM: A Parlor Ornament. —
Culture.— Soil. LAURESTINUS: Description. — Washing. Hoya:
Description. — Flowering. — Watering. CIIRYSANTHEMUMS: Culture.
— Watering. — Soil.— Varieties. LBEGONIA: Varietics, — Situation. —
Waterivg.— Soil.

THE MYRTLE.

he YRTLES are natives of Europe, New
je Holland, and China. They are hard-
wooded, evergreen shrubs, possessing
a peculiar, agreeable fragrance, and
have always been favorites for parlor
culture.
The soil should be three parts loam,
with one part of sand and one of leaf
= mould.
They do not require very large pots, and flourish well ia
almost any situation.
They require moderate washing, and watering, and plenty
of light and air during the growing season, which is in sum-

mer, when they should be put out of doors in a shady place,

92 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

yet not under the drip of trees. The flowers are usually
white, and produced in profusion in midsummer. J. com-
munis is the common plant of our parlors, of which there
are many varieties, with small and large leaves, variegated
foliage, and flowers single or double.

M. tenuifolia is a New Holland species ; a fine plant for
parlor culture.

MM. tomentosa is a fine Chinese species, with purple
flowers changing to white, so that flowers of many shades
are seen at once on the same plant. It should be more
generally grown, being equally hardy, except it is impatient

of exposure to the hot sun.

ACHJENIA.

A, malvaviscus is a beautiful parlor plant, symmetrical in
growth, and producing its brilliant, scarlet flowers in profu-
sion at the end of every branch. These flowers are suc-
ceeded by white berries, changing to bright red, which alone
would make the plant ornamental did it not always display
a profusion of bloom.

The best way to grow the plant is as a pyramid, as thus
the flowers and fruit show to great advantage. Give plenty

of sun and.light, turning the plant frequently. It is not

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 93

subject to the attacks of insects. Soil, two parts loam, two

leaf mould, with a slight admixture of sand.

ABUTILON. —

This is a race of shrubby, green-house plants, well
adapted for the parlor.

They are free growers, of upright habit, and unless judi-
ciously pruned, will soon outgrow their quarters. They
are natives of South America and New Holland.

The proper soil is, two parts loam, two of leaf mould,
and one of sand. If the soil is too rich, the growth will be
too rapid for the full development of the side branches.
Keep the plant moderately moist. The varieties for parlor
culture are, —

A. venosum, with large yellow flowers with red veins; A.
Bedfordianum, flowers much of the same character.

A. striatum, one of our prettiest window plants; always
in bloom, and beautiful from its profusion of pendulous,
veined, red and yellow blossoms all winter.

There are many other varieties, some with white, others
with red flowers, but they are not recommended for house
plants. The variegated-leaved kinds lose their colczing

under window culture.

94 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THUNBERGIA.

These pretty plants are usually grown as annuals with us,
for summer decoration in the flower garden, but they also
make fine window plants. For this purpose, sow the seed
in August in pots; as the plants grow, transplant one to
each pot, and train the slender shoots on a neat trellis.
Give plenty of sun, and syringe very often, for the plants are
very subject to attacks of red spider. They will show
bloom about the middle of January, and produce a profusion
during the winter and spring months. The plants will show
bud very early, but if they are allowed to bloom, orowth
will stop ; therefore it is best to pick off all the flower buds
until the plant is of the required size, when they may be
illewed to open.

Cuttings root very freely in sand, under a bell glass.
The soil should be, one part turfy loam, one part peat, one
part well-rotted manure. Water moderately.

The varieties are, —

T. alata, buff yellow, with a black centre; 7. alata
aurantia, deep orange, with black centre; 7. alata alba,
white, with black centre. |

There are also some superb hot-house species.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 7

ALOYSIA, OR LEMON VERBENA.

A half-hardy deciduous shrub, from Chili; the only species
is A. citriodora, commonly called Lemon Verbena. It is
valuable only for the fragrance of the leaves, the flowers
being small, whitish lilac, and of little beauty. As a winter
plant it is of no value, as it needs a season of rest, which
must be given it in a cellar free from frost.

The best treatment is, to plant it out in spring in the
flower border, where it will make vigorous growth. In the
fall, before the first frost, remove the plant with a ball of
earth to the cellar. In spring, trim the plant into a neat
shape, and re-plant it. If grown in pots, the proper soil is,
two parts of loam, two of leaf mould, and a slight mixture
of sand. While the plants are growing, give plenty of

water, but withhold it entirely during the winter.

CALLA.

The only plant of this genus, worthy of cultivation, is the
well-known Calla Lily (Richardia thiopica). It is too
familiar to our readers to need description. To bloom the
plants well, they should have a season of rest, which may be

regulated so as to have bloom at any season, if we have sev-

96 ° PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

;

eral plants. They naturally rest after the blooming season.
When they again begin to grow, re-pot them; if a plant
with a single stem is required, remove all suckers, other-
wise they will do no harm to remain; but the plant requir-
ing frequent re-pottings, will soon become so large as to be
unmanageable.

The foliage is peculiarly fine, and the plant is worth
growing for this alone.

‘If bloom is particularly desired, the best way is to plant
some six or eight roots in the half of an oil cask. Paint it
green, and put on two iron handles; you thus have a very
cheap, pretty, serviceable, and durable tub. Fill this with
the richest loam, and set the plants, the largest in the mid-
dle, the smaller around the sides, and set the tub on the
piazza or in a grass plat. The plants will bloom during the
es very freely, and may be wintered in a light cellar
without difficulty.

The proper soil is richest loam and peat well mixed.
When growing, you cannot give the plants too much water.
In the window, if the plants are set in a saucer kept con-
‘stantly filled with water, they-will be the better for it. In
summer, the plant will grow well, and flower profusely out

of doors in a tank,

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. oT

CUPHEA.

The only plant of this family, desirable for a window
plant, is the little Mexican C. ignea or platycentra. This
is a sparkling little gem of a plant, always in bloom. Plant
it in the flower border in summer, re-pot in autumn, and all
winter it will gladden you by a profusion of its bright scar-
let tubes tipped with a ring of black’and white. The plant
never grows above a foot in height, and is just suited for
the window. Soil, about three parts loam, one each of sand
and manure. Water freely, but do not allow the soil to

become sodden.

CACTUS.

There are seven families of Cacti, containing each a great |
number of species. Those chiefly grown as parlor plants
come under the families Cereus and Epiphyllum. The for-

mer family is a native of all dry, tropical regions of the
: western continent.

The soil most suitable is, two parts peat, one part broken
potsherds, broken coarse, one part loam or old mortar rub-
bish, and one part manure; mix these well together and
secure good drainage,

During the summer, the plants should stand out of doors

7

Cc)
(oS)

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

in a sheltered place, from the time they have done flowering
until September. Then remove them to the house, all parts
of shoots having no bloom buds (they are easily seen along
the leaves) being cut back to just beyond the buds. The
plants should be confined to six or eight strong stems ;
‘while these are in good health, the growth of shoots from
‘the roots is not to be encouraged. |
Give the plants no water from September until February ;
while in growth, water moderately. They bloom from May
ito August. —
Some of the varieties are, —
‘C. Speciosissimus. Crimson and purple flowers.
C. Flagelliformis. Rose flowers. This variety should be allowed to
‘droop, and not be pruned.
C. Grandiflorus is the night-blooming Cereus; flowers yellowish
white. This variety will not bloom until it is old.
C. Maynardi. Deep orange red flowers.
C. Triangularis. Cream color; immense flower.
All varieties will do well as window plants. The first

is the best for general culture.

We now come to the latter family, | Epiphyllum, all
natives of tropical America. This branch of the Cactus
family is distinguished by flat shoots, and leaves without
spines. The soil and treatment is identical with that of the

Cereus. The best yaricties are, — F

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 99

E. Akermanni. Fine scarlet flower.
E. Jenkunsoni. Fine scarlet flower.
E. Specissu. Rosy pink flower.

E. Alatum. White flower.

£. Truncatum, and its varieties, with scarlet, rosy, red, violet, and
_ white flowers.

All these latter varieties are drooping, and to show to
advantage, should be grafted on some of their tall-growing

Cereus relations. C. speciosissimus makes the best stock.

HYDRANGEA.

This ts only a summer plant, but an old favorite. One
requisite for its successful culture is shade; if grown in the
sun, the leaves become browned and the plant does poorly.
With us, it is not hardy out doors, so it must be grown in a
tub, and wintered in the cellar. The flowers are produced
on the shoots of the previous year. It requires to be well
grown to flower profusely, and the flowers from young plants
are larger than those on plants three or four years old.

While growing, the plants should have a good supply of
water.

Soil, one part loam, one part manure, one part peat.
The color of the flowers is pink, but if iron filings be mixed

with the earth they will become blue.

100 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Besides the well known pink variety (HZ. hortensis), there

are many others; of these, H. japonica, with blue and

white flowers, is desirable.

AGAPANTHUS,

Or African Lily. A showy plant for summer blooming,
and too well known to need description. Soil, two parts
loam, one part manure, one part leaf mould. Well grown |
it is a noble plant, but will bear much ill-usage. Treated
as recommended for the calla lily, and planted in a tub, it
forms a fine plant.

Winter in a dry, light cellar, and water occasionally.
Water freely while growing.

Ther: is a white variety, and one with variegated foliage ;

both desirable; a native of the Cape of Good Hope.

OLEANDER.

A very showy, but much neglected plant ; too well known
to need description. To bloom them in perfection, they
need a stove, and yet do well in the parlor and out of doors. —

Their season for blooming is July, yet that may be
_ changed, and bloom produced at any season. They flower

freely when scarcely a foot high, but will grow to the height

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 101

of ten or fifteen feet, forming splendid trees covered with
rose-colored, white, or variegated flowers.

Give them plenty of pot room in soil, two parts loam, two
parts peat, one part well-rotted manure. Being subject to
white scale, frequent washings are desirable.

They may be wintered in a light cellar, and then should
be but little watered; during the growing and blooming
seasons, water should be abundantly supplied.

The principal varieties are double rose (Ner¢wm oleander
splendens), striata pleno, with double striped flowers, pur-
purea, dark red, and as many as fifty named varieties,
all good.

PITTOSPORUM.

This is an old-fashioned plant, a favorite for its fragrant
flowers rather than for any beauty of foliage or blossom;
the former is dull green, the latter dirty white.

The common variety (P. Tobira) is a native of New
South Wales, and in England is a hardy wall plant; with us
it is a parlor plant, blooming from February to May. Soil,
three parts loam, with one each of leaf mould, sand, and
manure. »

Water freely while in bloom and growth. During the

102 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

summer, set the plant in a sheltered situation out of
doors, |

The leaves need frequent washings, to keep them free
from dust.

This plant will thrive with very little sun.

JASMINE.

A family of favorite climbing shrubs, and very pretty for
window culture, alike desirable for their neat foliage and
fragrant flowers. ‘The flowers are white or yellow, and pro-
duced from February to June, or later.

The soil should be equal parts of loam and peat, with a
slight admixture of sand. The only inscct attacking them
is scale, which a little care in washing will soon remove.
With common room culture, they grow to a large size and
make superb plants.

Water should be rather freely given. They should be
trained on neat trellises, and the branches allowed to droop.
The most desirable varieties are, —

J. Azoricum. White flowers in summer.

J. Odoratissimum. Yellow flowers in spring. :

J. Multiflorum. White flowers in spring.
J. Nuliflorum. Yellow flowers in spring.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 103

CALCEOLARIA.

The best way to grow this pretty plant is by raising seed-
lings. Sow seeds in August, in light, rich loam; trans-
plant the young plants to separate pots; pinch out the cen-
tre of the plant, and continue to do so until the plant is of
the required blooming size. As the roots of the plant touch
the pot, re-pot into a size larger. When the flower stems
push up, tic them neatly to sticks. Be careful in watering
not to give too much, or your plants will damp off. Give
all the sun and air possible, and keep the plants as close to
the glass as you can.

The proper soil is three parts light, rich loam, one of fine
peat, one of sand.

The shrubby varicties are seldom grown as window
plants, but are reserved for the flower garden. Under the

treatment given above, they grow and bloom well.

MAHERNIA.

This is a lovely flower and a general favorite, always
blooming, and always attractive with its fragrant yellow

bells.

Its tendency is to grow straggling, therefore it is best to

104 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

select a plant with a straight stem. Tie up the main stem
as it grows, and by continued pinching restrain the too
luxuriant growth

M. odorata is the variety chiefly grown. Jf. Hector and
Diana are pretty orange and pink varieties.

Soil, four parts loam, one of sand, one of manure. Keep
the plants moist, but not wet, and give as much sun as pos-

sible. In bloom from February to May.

CHINESE PRIMROSE.

Both the single and double varieties of this plant are
pretty for window gardening. Sow the seed in July, in a
fine soil, as directed for calceolarias, and treat the plant the
same, except the pinching. By January, nice little bloom-
ing plants will be formed; give them sun and air and do
not allow them to over-bloom, as they are apt to do.

After bloom is over, set them out of doors (about June),
and on no account allow them to bloom during the summer.
Grow them well until autumn, then re-pot in blooming
pots, and by Christmas they will begin to show flower, and
keep up a succession until spring.

Soil, one part turfy loam, one part well decomposed cow

dung, one part peat, and one part sand.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 105

Be sure the pots are well drained, and never keep the
plants very wet. ‘The colors are red, rosy, lilac, white,

striped, and mottled, with fringed and plain edges.

SOLANUM.

The only plant of this useful family, suitable for room
decoration on account of its flowers, is the Solanum jas-
minoides, a pretty climber, with dark green foliage, and
white potato-like flowers, in large clusters.

It is useful to climb around a window or to cover a trellis.
It is a rampant grower, subject to no disease or insect
attacks, and with sun and air, if potted in a soil of rich

loam, will take care of itself, and bloom all winter.

SOLANUM PSEUDOCAPSICUM.

This plant is the common Jerusalem Cherry. It was
introduced from Maderia about the year 1596. For a
showy plant, in the parlor or green-house, it has no equal,
being studded with bright, red berries, about the size of a
cherry, during the whole winter. A plant now before us,.
only two years old, is two feet high, three feet through, and
bending down beneath the weight of fruit. The flowers

are produced in June, and are inconspicuous. Sow the

106 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

seeds in a pot in April; as soon as the weather becomes
warm, transplant to a rich, sunny border; the plants will
grow rapidly, and probably be in fruit the next winter; pot
the plants before the frost, and winter in room.

There is a more dwarf-growing species (S. capiastricum),
with orange berries, which is also very ornamental.

A strong loam is the proper soil for all plants of this
family.

THE LAURESTINUS.

This plant, hardy in England, is with us a winter-
blooming parlor ornament. It is a free-growing, free-
blooming evergreen, and will bear much hard usage. If
cared for, however, it will repay the attention. The flowers
are small, white, and in large, flattened panicles, expanding
from February to May.

The proper soil is a mixture of four parts loam, with one
each of sand, leaf mould, and manure. The pots should be
large, and the plants be freely watered. Dust collecting on
the foliage injures the beauty and health of this plant,
therefore frequent washings are desirable. There are many
varieties, some of which, as the snow-ball (Viburnum op-

ulus), are hardy shrubs.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 107

HOYA, OR WAX PLANT.

A showy genus of stove climbers, of which one, Hoya
carnosa, succeeds well with parlor culture. It is a climbing
shrub, the leaves dark green and fleshy; the flowers are of
a peculiar waxy appearance, produced in umbels, whitish,
with rose-colored centre, in which hangs a drop of limpid
honey. .

Give the plant a large pot, and a compost of peat and
loam in equal parts, securing good drainage. Give as much
sunlight and heat as possible. The old bloom stalks
should not be removed, as they put out flowers year after
year. Much water is not needed, especially when the plant
is not growing. This beautiful plant is a native of tropical
Asia, and is one of the few stove plants that will adapt

themselves to parlor culture.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

These plants are favorites for autumn blooming, and
quite a treatise might be written on their cultivation, since
they have become florists’ flowers. A few hints must, how-
ever, suffice.

The best way to obtain a fine specimen is, to set out in

108 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

the garden in the early spring a small plant; give it con- _
stant attention during the summer, and pinch out the shoots
so as to make lateral branches. About the first of Septem-
ber let it set for bloom, and on the approach of frost, pot it
and ere it to the parlor. It will bloom for two months
or more. Then dry it off for the winter in the cellar, and
by the spring it will furnish you with plenty <f young
plants. Water should be liberally supplied. Tue small-
flowered, Pompon, varieties are very desirable; the larger
flowers are best seen in the garden.

The proper soil is loam and well-rotted manure, with a
little silver sand. Waterings of liquid manure are very
beneficial as the plants are showing bloom. The following

will be found to be fine kinds: —

Pompone.
Andromeda. Cream color. Riquigqut. Violet plum.
Nellie. Creamy pink. Lady Mayoress. White.
Miranda. Bright rose. Salamon. Rosy carmine.
Christiana. Canary yellow. Canary Bird. Yellow.
Mrs. Diz. Blush. - Miss Talford. White.
; Large-Flowered Varieties.
Alarm. Crimson. Prince Albert. Crimson red.
Little Harry. Golden amber. - King of Yellows. Yellow.
Cassy. Orange ard buff. Vesta. White.
Hermine. Silver white. Annie Salter. Canary yellow

Pearl. Pearly white. Queen of England. Blush.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 109

BEGONIA.

The only two species of this ornamental stove plant that
do well in the parlor, are B. incarnata, and fuchsiordes.
The former is an evergreen shrub, with thick, fleshy stems,
and large, drooping clusters of pink flowers in winter. It
shows to great advantage if well cared for, and is one of the
best window plants. The latter is often called ‘coral
drop,” and resembling the former somewhat in habit, pro-
duces at all seasons, but chiefly in summer, its pretty,
drooping, coral flowers.

Both species require the warmest possible situation, and
plenty of light and sun. They are impatient of much
water, but the plants should never be allowed to droop.
Good drainage is indispensable. The whole family thrive
in a compost of one half loam, one half leaf mould, with a

slight portion of sand.

*.

110 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

CHAPTER VI.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED.

SmiLax: History. —Soil.— Culture. GELSEMIUM: Culture. STEVIA:
Soil. — Culture. PETUNIA: History.— Soil.—Culture. FERNS IN THE
PARLOR. CHRYSANTHEMUMs: Varieties for window culture. AGAVE,
or CENTURY PLANT: Species.— Culture, GERANIUMS, or PELARGO-
NIUMS: New Variegated-leaved. — Double.— New Ivy-leaved. PALMS
FOR HOUSE CULTURE.

THE SMILAX.

true pie but a liliaceous plant from
the Cape of Good Hope, botanically

known as Myrsiphyllum, so called from

the ae of the foliage to that of a myrtle.
There are two species — JZ. asparagoides, which is the
kihd. so soins erown, and Jf. angustifolium. Both
species are delicate twining plants, with bright-green foli-
age (we speak in popular parlance, the parts of these

plants usually called leaves being only metamorphosed

\

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 111

branches), and pretty, nodding, fragrant, greenish-white
flowers, which are succeeded by bright-red berries.

This plant is easily grown in the parlor, and, twining
round the window, makes the prettiest frames imaginable. _
The root is a bunch of tubers united at the top, from
which crown the shoots proceed. Plants may be obtained:
of any florist in November, and need only a warm, sunny
exposure to produce an abundance of foliage. The shoots
should be trained on strings, which may be crossed into
any required form. ‘The soil should be sandy peat and
loam, with good drainage; the pots should be large enough
to allow full development of the roots; and, during
growth, plenty of water should be given.

About the first of May the plants will go to rest; water
should then be gradually withheld, and, when the leaves
turn yellow, the plant should be wholly dried off, and
remain so all summer, the earth being only just damp
enough to prevent the roots from shrivelling up. In
October give water, and re-pot the plant. Propagation
is effected by division of the root, or from seed, which
vegetates freely. The atmosphere of a room in which
smilax is grown should be kept rather moist by evapora-

tion of water on the stove or over the furnace, as, in a

9g 7 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

hot, dry air, the plants are liable to be attacked by red
spider, which, as syringing cannot be done in the parlor,

_ are difficult to get rid of.

THE GELSEMIUM.

This plant, botanically G. sempervirens or nitidum, is
commonly known as Carolina jasmine. It-is a native of
our Southern States, being generally found on the river
banks, and along the roads in moist places.

The foliage is dark, shining green; and the flowers,
which are freely produced, are bright yellow, and delight-
fully fragrant.

The soil should be rich sandy loam, and plenty of water
should be given when the plant is in growth. “Cuttings
root easily under a bell-glass. .

This is a charming window plant, and easily grown. It
is a half climber, and needs the support of a stake or
trellis. We have seen a single plant, which, grown in a
large tub, occupied the whole of a large bay-window, and
was a marked example of what success may be attained

in window gardening.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 118

THE STEVIA.

Some species of this large genus are useful as window
plants, blooming in early winter, at a time when flowers
are scarce.

The foliage is clear green, shining in some species; and
the flowers, which are very abundant, are in dense cor-
ymbs. ‘The color is usually white, but some are pink or
purple.

Cuttings are struck in the spring, grown out of doors
all summer, the plants being frequently pinched to keep
them in shape. Just before the frost, the plants are pot-
ted, shaded for a few days to establish them, and forced
into bloom in December. After blooming, the plants are
thrown away, except the few needed for cuttings. The
soil should be good loam, and water should be given
freely. The best species for window culture is S. salici-

folia.

THE PETUNIA.

This well-known plant blooms freely in the window, and
is very easily grown.

It is a native of South America; and from the white

8

114 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

variety (P. nyctiginiflora) and the small purple (P. vio-

lacea) all the beautiful varieties now found in gardens
2 -

have originated.

The plants only require common soil, and to-be ates
upon a trellis, and, while they give but little bloom in
winter, will, towards spring, give the greatest profusion.
The double varieties are showy, but are not favorites
of ours.

One of the best petunias is Countess of Ellesmere, a
charming variety; color rosy-red, with a pure white

throat.

FERNS IN THE PARLOR.

Although most ferns can only be grown in the parlor
with the protection of a Wardian case, there are some
which succeed well grown upon the centre-table, provided
the room is light and airy.

We have for years grown some species most success;

fully in this way, planting them in porcelain pots, or

boxes, without drainage from the bottom, in which they .

have developed finely. :
In the bottom of the pot put two layers of potsherds,

broken up rather fine, and upon this a few small lumps of

“—
-. 7

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 115

charcoal; upon this fill the soil, a compost of peat, loam,
and sand, broken fine, but not sifted, and set the plant;
give a good watering, and the work is dene.

Care must be taken not to over-water so as to rot the
roots, and not to keep the room very hot and close.

"The species we have found to succeed best in parlor
culture are, —
ADIANTUM.

This is a very beautiful and graceful family, of which
our native maiden-hair fern is a well-known species.

A. cuneatum. . A beautiful Brazilian species, with
graceful fronds, which are delicate pink in the young
state. It is propagated so readily from spores that young
plants often come up in any pots which may be near. If
carefully grown, it soon forms a large plant.

A.- affine. A delicate species from New Zealand, very
easily grown. ‘

, A. pedatum. Our native maiden-hair.

se capillus Veneris. The English maiden-hair.

_-” Both of very easy culture.

me?

DavILiia.
D. canariensis. A graceful and pretty fern. Does well

with parlor culture.

116 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

BLECHNUM.
B. braziliense is a large-growing, rather coarse, but
handsome fern, which makes a good specimen with room

culture.
PTERIs.

Of this large family three are easily grown in the parlor,
and probably experiment would show that many others
succeed equally well.

P. serrulata. This is the most common of exotic ferns.
A native of the East Indies, it comes up from spores so
readily, in fern and orchid houses, as to become a weed.
It grows rapidly, and soon makes a large plant.

P. tremula. <A large-growing species, from Australia.
It makes a fine plant for an ornamental porcelain pot, or
for a low-hanging basket.

P. cretica albo lineata. A pretty fern, and the only
one of the variegated kinds which will thrive with parlor
culture. The leaves are light green, with a clear-white

centre and midrib. It is now very common.

NEPHROLEPIS.
N. exaltata and pectinata are common kinds, easily

grown and very ornamental.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 117

PoLypPopIuM.

Those who cannot obtain exotic ferns may cultivate suc-
cessfully our pretty, wild polypodium (P. vulgare). It is
an evergreen species, very common on shaded, rocky

places; and grows well in the parlor.

LYGODIUM.

This is a beautiful genus of climbing ferns, of which one
species (L. palmatum) is not uncommon in New England.

The oldest known species is L. scandens, a native of
the East Indies, with large, bright-green foliage, and which,
grown upon the rafters of a greenhouse, makes a screen of
delicate beauty. Itdoes well in a Wardian case, but is
impatient of damp, unless in a high temperature.

LT. japonicum is a charming little climber, and will
thrive in a Wardian case, or even in the parlor, if the air
is not allowed to get very dry.

L. palmatum (our ‘‘climbing-fern ”’) is hardy and easily

cultivated. f
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

The recently introduced Japanese chrysanthemums are

valuable as prolonging the season of flowers far into the

118 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

winter, although the flowers are very ragged and loose.
The best way for the amateur is to buy from the nearest
green-house a few plants of chrysanthemums in the au-
tumn, bloom them in the window, and then throw them
away.

AGAVE, OR CENTURY PLANT.

The common Century plant, or American aloe (A. Ameri-
Honey and the striped-leaved variety, are too well known
to need description. They are very hardy plants, even
bearing several degrees of frost without injury. They are
stately plants, and will endure much ill-treatment. In the
parlor they form attractive ornaments for the centre-table
in winter, the only care required being not to over-water
them, and to dust the leaves.

There are many other species, all worth growing; but

the best are, —

A. Milleri. A variety of Americana, of free-growing habit, and with

long variegated leaves,

A.amedio picta. Rich golden-yellow leaves.

A. applanata. Rich glaucous foliage.

A. coccinia. A massive species; deep green leaves, armed with red
spines.

A. ferox. A very distinct species, with heavy dark-green leaves, armed
with large dark-brown spines.

A, filifera. Leaves dark green, clothed with white filaments. A very
handsome plant,

me

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 119

A. Ghiesbreghtii. A very distinct species. Leaves bright green, bor-
dered with red, and armed with red spines.

A. Schedigera. A handsome plant, resembling 4. filifera, but much
more beautiful. The edges of the leaves are white, and from these hang
long woolly filaments. i

A. univittata. Leaves dark green, with central stripe of greenish yellow.

A. Verschaffeltti. A showy species. Foliage milky green, with large
brown spines.

A. Xalapensis. A beautiful plant. Leaves dark clear green, the edges
thickly set with rich brown spines.

A. xylacantha. Leaves glaucous green, with broad white margin.

There are scores of other species and varieties, all hand-
some and well worth growing, all evergreen except A. vwir-

giniana, which is deciduous.

GERANIUMS, OR PELARGONIUMS.

The past few years have witnessed a rapid advance in
these plants. Great improvements have been made in
both foliage and flower —in the former, by more vivid and
better defined markings; in the latter, in size, shape, sub-
stance, and color. Some of the new varieties have foliage
which equals in color a brilliant flower, and in some the
permanency of the markings is most remarkable.

Of thousands of varieties we select the following as the
best for parlor culture, both as regards foliage and profu-

sion of bloom: —

120 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Duchess. Salmon scarlet.

‘General Grant. Scarlet.

‘Orbiculatum. me
Louis Veuillot. as
Warrior. ee
Cybister. a

Gloire de Corbenay. Salmon.

Large,
Dwarf.

Gertrude (Barker’s). Salmon pink.

Helen Lindsay. Pink.

Maid of Kent. Pink.

Madam Vaucher. White.

Crystal Palace Gem. Variegated.
Gold.

Mountain of Snow. Variegated.

Silver.
Mrs. Pollock. Variegated. Bronze.
Lady Cullum. “ “

DovusBLE GERANIUMS.

These varieties are not very free-blooming in the parlor,

and are better adapted for the green-house.

However,

after the turn of the year, they often produce good flowers,

and are then very showy, the blossoms remaining long in

perfection. They need arich soil and plenty of water, as

they are generally strong growers, although plants bloom

when very young.

The best are, —

Gloire de Nancy. Double. Cherry.
Scarlet.

William Pitt.
Madam Lemoine.
Marie Lemoine.

«cs
«cc

Pink.

6c

It is said a double white variety has been produced in

France; but if so, it is not yet for sale in this country.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 121

IvY-LEAVED GERANIUMS.

The old ivy-leaved geranium (P. peltatum) is a well-
known window plant, of easy culture. The leaf is orna-
mental, and the flower, though not very showy, is pretty.
This species has been wonderfully improved during the
past few years. |

A variety with leaves beautifully marked with silver has
been raised, which proves a capital window plant, and
requires no more care than the old kind. There is also a
variety with golden-edged leaves.

There has also been great improvement in the flower.
The first advance in this direction was P. peltatum elegans,
in which the flowers were bright pink, and of better form.
Next we had Princess Thyra, flowers deep flesh color,
marked with pink; and Grand Duchess Maria, violet pink,
with deep violet marks. But the latest and by far the
finest varieties are those with bright rosy-pink or scarlet
blossoms, which are so beautiful that, when they become
common, they must be favorite window plants. They are
hybrids between the zonale and ivy-leaved sections, but
retain the ivy leaf while gaining the brilliancy of flower

of the zonale varieties. Wallsi has deep scarlet blos-

122 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

soms; and in Willsw rosea they are delicate salmon rose.
Lady Edith and Gem of the Season are two of the newest
varieties, which are superior to all others in color and form

of flower.

PALMS FOR HOUSE CULTURE.

Many of the palms are very ornamental grown in the
parlor. Their stiff foliage is well adapted to endure the
impure air of apartments, and is not injured by gas. They
also thrive with very little sun, and are easily kept clean
by dusting or washing. It is, however, only the more
hardy species which can be so used, and the best of all is
fortunately the most common.

Invistona bourbonica, commonly known as Latania
bourbonica, is a showy plant, with broad fan-shaped leaves,
which grows freely, and is very useful for interior decora-
tion. All the species of Chamerops are very hardy, and
ene easily grown. The most common are C. humilis,
Fortunei, and Palmetto.

Corypha australis is a noble plant, and of easy culture.
All the Cycas are hardy enough to do well in the parlor.
But by far the most beautiful is Seaforthia elegans, a very

graceful plant.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 128

Where plants are needed for effect, and little attention
can be given, palms and agaves are eminently useful. All
winter they need little care, and, provided they are well
grown in summer, will only from November to April re-
‘quire an occasional watering; in fact, the care to give is,
to see they are not over-watered. Of course we cannot
give full descriptions of all; but,as a general rule, any
green-house palm will thrive in the parlor, and well repay

the little care it needs.

124 HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS.

CHAPTER «WEF.

HANGING BASKETS AND SUITABLE PLANTS, AND TREAT-
MENT OF IVY.

HAT a pretty amusement is the growth
of plants in hanging baskets or
pots! It is very popular, and
deservedly so. The beauty of
the baskets, now fashioned in so
many artistic designs, is almost
sufficient to inspire a love of hor-
ticulture, if only far Hoe gaee
of growing the plant in so
pretty a pot. Yet we cannot urge

the growth of plants in these bas-

kets; a porous pot is essential to

the health of a plant, and most of
these baskets are china, or glazed or painted.

Yet they may be used by setting the pot containing the

HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. 125

plant inside of them. Another objection is, that having
no outlet for the escape of the water, it collects in the
bottom, and, unless there is very ample drainage, which is
seldom the case, the roots are rotting in water while the
surface is dry. |

Potting in these vases is very simple. If the plant must
be in the vase or basket, fill half full of broken potsherds ;
on these place a thin layer of moss, and fill up with pre-
pared soil; shade the plant for a few days until well estab-
lished, then hang it in the window, and water slightly every
morning with a fine-rosed watering-pot; as the plant
grows, dispose the branches to fall gracefully over the pot.

The plants most suitable for baskets are, —

The Common PERIWINKLE (Vinca Major and Minor),
and the pretty variety with variegated leaves. This is an
evergreen, and produces its pretty blue flowers in spring
and early summer. There is also a white-flowered and a
double variety.

LystmacHIA MummunariA (Money Wort). <A pretty
little trailing plant, with dark, glossy leaves, and a pro-
fusion of dark yellow flowers in June. This plant should.
be in a shady window.

LinariA CympBatarta (Coliseum Ivy). A little gem

126 HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS.

of a plant, and thriving well in the parlor. Leaves small;
ivy-shaped flowers, like a little snap-dragon, purple and
white. Should be kept rather moist.

TRADESCANTIA ZEBRINA. <A rapid growing plant, with
greenish purple leaves, with lighter markings on the
upper side, and dark purple below; flowers small light
pink.

CEREUS FLAGELLIFORMIS.— A pretty species of cactus,
with pink flowers in summer, and long, pendulous leaves,
with close spines. rate

LoBELIA GRACILIS AND Erinus. These, and many
others of the family, are pretty, graceful plants, producing
blue or white flowers. Sow the seed in early spring, and
plants will bloom in June, and continue in blossom all
summer.

Nemoruita. <A class of pretty annuals, with blue, |
white, and spotted flowers. Treat as lobelia.

Tropmotum (Nasturtium). The various small-flowered
kinds do well, and are gay with flowers, if the pot is large
enough, and the soil not too rich.

SotanumM JasminorpEs. This pretty plant, previously
described, does well in a large basket.

SAXIFRAGA SARMENTOSA (Chinese Saxifrage). Very

HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. 127

pretty and common, producing long, hanging runners, with
new plants growing out every few inches. ‘he flower is
white, produced on a tall spike, from the centre of the old
plant. It is not showy, and the bud, when young, should be
cut off, as the plant dies after blooming. Give plenty of
water.

Convotvutus Mauriranicus. A beautiful, new Morn-
ing Glory, with pink and blue flowers, with a white star in
the centre.

PeLarconium Latertres (Ivy-leaved Geranium). Makes
an excellent plant for a basket, and will do well with little
care; the variegated-leaved variety is very fine.

DisanprA Prosrrata. A pretty, free-growing plant,
‘ with long, slender stems, clothed with roundish leaves, and
bearing small, yellow flowers, of no particular beauty;
cultivated more for its freedom of growth than for its
flowers. Grows in any light, loamy soil.

One of the most serviceable trailers is the plant com-
monly known as German Ivy (Senecio Scandens) ; it is
of most rapid growth, with light green leaves, studded
with pellucid dots, and never troubled by insects. As
a screen for a window, or covering for a wall, it ia

most valuable. It is easily propagated, every joint root-

128 TREATMENT OF IVY.

ing if placed in the earth. The flowers are straw-
colored, and often produced in greatest profusion. The
plant is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and has
been introduced many years. It is admirably adapted for

baskets.

IVY.

This plant, in some of its varieties, is probably the most
popular ornament of the parlor. ‘The ease of culture, its
beautiful foliage, its rapid growth, and evergreen character,
all combine to make it a favorite.

The soil should be a rich loam; the richer the soil
the more rapid will be the growth. Yet avoid stimu-
lating manures.

Slips root readily, taken off at any leaf joint, and placed
either in earth or water; in the latter they will soon
throw out roots, and may then be transferred to pots.

The only precaution to be taken in growing ivy is to
keep it from frost while in growth; and if frozen, to keep
the sun away from it, thawing it out with cold water.

In summer the plants may be set out of doors, and will
make vigorous growth.

There are many species, of which the most common is

TREATMENT OF IVY. 129

Hedera Helix, the common twining ivy, a native of Europe,
of which there are many varieties. ‘The leaves of these
varieties vary very much, and many distinctions have been
founded on these variations. There are two very beautiful
kinds, the silver and golden, the foliage being beautifully

variegated with white and gold. The following cuts will

show how these differ in foliage, all being taken from living
leaves, though some are necessarily reduced in size to
accommodate them to our pages.

The Tree or Aborescent Ivy is merely a form of the com-

9

130 TREATMENT OF IVY.

mon variety, which is shown by its returning to the primal
form not unfrequently. The leaves are entire, and the
plant often retains its arborescent form for years.

HI. Regneriana is a variety with large, heart-shaped

leaves, which is much esteemed.

Hi. h. digitata, the palmate or hand-shaped Ivy is a

pretty variety, of rapid growth; the leaves are small,
dark, and veined. ‘This is often called, erroneously, the
Irish Ivy. , |
H. Canariensis is the Irish, or Giant Ivy; the leaves are
five-lobed, and larger than those of the common ivy.
Almost all the varieties of nurserymens’ catalogues are

merely forms of these, with peculiar foliage.

TREATMENT OF IVY. 131

The Golden Ivy is a splendid plant; when the young
leaves come out it resembles a mass of yellow flowers.

Ivies are grown in hanging baskets, around windows,
made to trail around picture frames and looking glasses ;
indeed, they may be made decorative in the highest
degree.

Tue plants should always be well supplied with water,
though it should never be allowed to stand at the roots.
Large plants of the common varieties may be procured for
fifty cents. The ornamental foliaged varieties are some-
what dearer. j |

If you have ivy growing out of doors (and it will thrive
if you keep the winter’s sun away from it), a pretty effect
may be produced by cutting large branches, and keeping
them in vases of rain water. They will grow well all
winter, and planted in spring make nice plants for
autumn.

The plant commonly known as German Ivy is not an ivy ;
the botanical name is Senecio Scandens. It is deservedly
popular, ‘tom its rapid growth and its freedom from insects.
We ha‘, in a former paragraph, treated of it more fully.

The Coliseum Ivy is a species of Snap-dragon, as may be

seen *.m an examination of the flowers, and a very pretty

132 TREATMENT OF IVY.

plant it is; botanically it is Linaria Cymbalaria, and is
mentioned more fully in the early part of this chapter.
Five-leaved Ivy is the Virginia Creeper or Woodbine
(Ampelopsis Virginica), a native of our, woods.
The Poison Ivy is Rhus Radicans or Rhus Toxicoden-

dron, and not of the same family as any of the above.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW: GARDENING. 133

CHAPTER VIII.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED.

AsUTILON: New Varieties. Catta Lity: Growth in Cases in the Window. OXALIs:
Description. — Soil. — Species. CUPHEA HYSSOPIFOLIA. CHRYSANTHEMUM: New

Varieties. Lity oF THE VALLEY: Forcing in House Culture.
THE ABUTILON.

HE past few years have given us some new varieties of
Abutilon which are very valuable as window plants,

As we have before remarked, all the Abutilons are of very
easy culture, thrive well in the close, dry atmosphere of the
house, flower freely, and are not liable to the attacks of in-_
sects, and in all these good qualities the new varieties are in
no respect inferjor to the old.

Abutilon vexillarium is a charming, small-leaved species,
of which the variety with the foliage beautifully marked with
gold is most common in cultivation. The habit of the plant
is trailing, the shoots weak and drooping, which fits it for car-
pet bedding in the garden, or for window culture in hanging

baskets.

134 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Grafted on a tall stem of one of the tall-growing species
it forms a beautiful ead of pendulous sprays, and is a very
handsome plant. The flowers are bright yellow from a red
calyx, and with protruding black pistil, and from the peculiar
combination of rich colors, are very effective.

The plant is now common, and may be obtained at any
green-house.

Cuttings root freely on sandy loam.

Abutilon Verschaffeltii is a tall growing species with
woolly leaves and light-yellow flowers. It blooms freely

o, and is seldom out of flower. It is a

when very young,

rapid grower and a very attractive plant. In the summer
it makes a fine show in the garden. As in most of the
species, the flowers are. pendulous on long footstalks.
Abutilon Boule de Neige is a new seedling of French
origin. As a decorative free blooming plant it is unsur- |
passed, plants only a few inches high blooming freely. The
blossoms are large, pure, lustrous white, with bright yellow
pistil, the contrast of color adding greatly to the effect. A'-
though a new plant, it increases so readily that it is easily
obtainable; superior in every respect, it is one of the greatest

acquisitions of the last few years.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 135

CALLA LILY.

This plant can be very prettily grown in a window, in
hollow tables.

_ These should be made as long as the window, and about
two feet wide. The bulb tables now in general use do very
well if made a little deeper, for the Calla requires plenty of
root-room.

A zinc pan is set into the table; in this the pots are
placed, and all interstices are filled with moss; a covering
of green moss is then placed over all, and we have the lilies
springing from a bed of moss. Water very freely, even to
filling the pan half full, and give all the light and sun pos-
sible, occasionally turning the table, as the plants grow to
the window. The amount of bloom to be obtained from a
dozen good sized Callas treated in this oe is. surprising
ane November to May there will seldom be less than an
average of one flower to a plant.

In May, take the plants out of the pots and plant them in
rich, deep soil out of doors; the foliage will die down and
the root go to rest. About August it will begin to grow
again, and the plants will be SAS for potting by the middle
of September.

136 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Thus treated, Callas bloom far more vigorously than when
kept growing all the year.

There is a new dwarf Calla which is very pretty and de-
sirable where economy of room is an object, but it is not as
showy as the old kind.

The Spotted-leaved Calla (Richardia albo maculata) is
‘valuable for its spotted arrow-shaped foliage; the flower is:
green and not showy: the plant dies down after blooming,

-and musc¢t then be dried off.

OXALIS.

There are about a hundred species of these pretty bulbs,
some of which grow and bloom well in the window.

The foliage is generally petiolate, and much resembles
‘clover. The flowers are mostly yellow, pink, red, or white,
and the various shades of these colors, and are often fra-
grant.

They open in the sun, closing in dull weather and at
night.

Many are free bloomers, and all are remarkably clean
plants, seldom being infested with insects.

All are of low habit, and some are well adapted for hang-

in g baskets.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 137

The bulbs should be potted, half a dozen in an eight-inch
pot, — or better, a dozen in a twelve-inch pan, —in sandy
loam, with good drainage, about the first of October.

The foliage will soon appear, in some species with flow-
ers, but generally the foliage will grow for a month before
bloom begins.

After blooming, grow the foliage well, giving plenty of
water until it begins to turn yellow, then gradually reduce
the supply of water and put the pots on a closet shelf, let-
ting them remain without water until the next autumn.

Some of the best varieties are

O. Boweii, flowers bright rosy red, very large, from
October.

QO. cernua, a common species with a double variety ;
flowers bright yellow, very fragrant, all winter.

Q. versicolor, a charming plant with fine-cut foliage, the
flowers outside crimson red, inside creamy white. This
species grows best in a hanging basket.

O. luxula and the variety alba are beautiful plants, the
foliage is in tufts, the flowers on long footstalks standing
well above it. They are very large, rosy pink or white,
with yellow centre. |

A table of Oxalis every year fills for us a sunny window,

1388 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

and all through the long days of winter it is gay with bright
blossoms, and gives quite as much pleasure as the rare

exotics which are brought from the greenhouse.

CUPHEA.

A new Cuphea (C: hyssopifolia) has proved a very free
blooming plant, being never out of bloom. The foliage is
dark green, very fine; the flowers bright pink, completely
covering the plant. It roots freely from cuttings, grows
rapidly ; the plants bloom when only an inch high, and
whether in garden, greenhouse, or window, it devotes its
whole energies to flowering.

Soil, sandy loam, with good drainage.

CHRYSANTHEMUM.
LARGE FLOWERED.
Some of the best new varieties are—
George Peabody, pure white.
Gloria Mundi, golden yellow, incurved.
Princess of Teck, pure white, finely incurved.
Marchioness of Lorne, rich rosy lilac.
Bijou, bright rose purple, anemone flowered.
Jardin des Plants, golden yellow.

Margaret, large pure white, anemone flowered.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 139

PoOMPONE.

Andromeda rosea, fine rose.

Bob, rich deep crimson.

Carminata, crimson-red.

Fabeola, lilac, anemone-flowered.

Reine des Anemones, white, anemone-flowered.

Embleme, pure yellow.

Grilliant, orange-red.

Model of Perfection, rich lilac.

Madam Eugene Domage, pure white.

Rose d amour, clear rose.

The Japanese varieties with tasselled flowers are more
curious than beautiful. Some good kinds are Acquisition,

Beaumont, Elaine, Jane Salter, La Coquette, Garnet, L’ Or-

nament de la Nature.

LILY OF THE VALLEY.

Forcing this plant for winter bloom has latterly become
quite a business with florists ; but it is not generally known
that in a dwelling-house fine winter flowers can be had with
very little trouble.

The pips or clumps of roots can be obtained from any

140 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

dealer in bulbs in October. Put them at once in good
garden soil, placing them thick in the pot.

Water. moderately, and place the pots in a shed where
they will freeze. About the first of January bring the pots
into the kitchen, and place them on the shelf over the range, 7
or in any very warm place, giving plenty of water.

The leaves and flower-stalks will rapidly develop, but
will be without color. When they are sufficiently long,
bring them into full sunlight, where they will get color in a
very short time. Some of the best flowers we have ever
seen were grown in this way.

Surely the beauty and fragrance of this favorite flower
will repay any trouble. We should never weary of the
Lily of the Valley, could we gather it every day in the

year.

ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE, 141

CHAPTER byitX.

ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE.

LYCASTE. — ODONTOGLOSSUM. — CYPRIPEDIUM. — BLETIA. — PHAIUS. — GOODYERA.

HE word “ orchid” conveys to most minds an idea of a

plant which grows only in great heat, and requires a
peculiar mode of culture. To some, “orchid” is synony-
mous with air plant; yet a large portion of orchids are
not air plants (epiphytal), and many thrive in a moderate
temperature, and require no peculiar culture.

Some orchids grow at such elevation that hoar-frost is
found upon the leaves, while others are natives of the hot
jungles of the Indian Archipelago.

Formerly all orchids were grown in a hot, steamy atmos-
phere, that being the treatment which theory recommended.
The natural consequence was that many perished under
such uncongenial culture.

The past few years have shown that orchids from cool

regions require cool culture, a temperature somewhat re-

142 ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE.

sembling that of their native haunts. The only wonder is
that horticulturists were thirty years in opening their eyes
to this patent fact.

Experience has also shown that some few of the large .
class of cool orchids can be successfully grown and bloomed
in the parlor.

Many orchids are remarkable only for their showy flow-
ers, the foliage being sparse or deciduous. But those or-
chids adapted to parlor culture are all from genera having
evergreen leaves, and the foliage of some is ornamental.

The general rules for potting orchids are: Give plenty of
drainage — no orchids thrive in a close, sour soil, many re-
quire plenty of water, but none thrive in standing water ;
make the soil porous, lumpy, — broken, not sifted; give
pure air and light, and a decided season of rest; keep the
foliage clean and free from dust, and preserve the roots

from their numerous insect enemies.

LYCASTE.

A family of some thirty species of terrestrial orchids from
South America.
The leaves are large and plaited, the flowers borne

usually on single scapes, large and very showy.

ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE. 143

These plants should be potted in coarse peat and sphag-
num moss, with broken potsherds or bits of charcoal.

When growing they need plenty of water, and even when
at rest should never be allowed to become entirely dry.

L. Skinnert. This beautiful plant is a native of Guate-
mala. The flowers are large, from three to six inches in
diameter, sepals and petals white or rose, recurved, lip vary-
ing from pure white to deepest carmine. The growth is
made in summer, the flowers are produced in winter; they
last six weeks in beauty, and many are produced in succes-
sion. .

Although a close, moist atmosphere is best suited to this
plant when in growth, it may be grown in the parlor. Give
plenty of water and light without full sun, the object being
to grow the foliage as large as possible. When growth is
complete, generally by October, reduce the water and give
more sun. |
- Those who have a vinery can grow this plant in great
perfection ; put them in the vinery from May to October,
in the parlor from October to May. Figured in Bot. Mag.,
tab. 4445. Pax. Mag., 11, p. 1.

L. Harrisonie. A showy species which is easily grown

in the parlor. The leaf is large and solitary, the flowers

+

144 ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE.

three inches in diameter, one or two on a spike, white or
yellowish, waxy, lip rich rose, varying to lilac. This plant

blooms constantly at all seasons. Bot. Reg., tab. 897.

ODONTOGLOSSUM.

A large genus of generally cool orchids. Doubtless
many of these beautiful plants could be grown in the par-
lor; we have, however, had experience with only one.

O. grande. A noble species, with dark evergreen foliage.
Flowers on erect racemes, five inches across; glossy yellow,
beautifully barred with chocolate ; produced freely in au-
tumn and early winter. —

Pot in sphagnum moss, coarse peat, and charcoal.

Treated as prescribed for Lycaste Skinneri it blooms
freely. ¥
CYPRIPEDIUM.

A very large genus, inhabiting in some species both con-
tinents, both in the temperate and torrid zones. The plants
are commonly known as Lady’s Slipper. We have in our
woods beautiful species, and among exotics many no less
attractive.

Our native species, if potted late in the autumn, will

bloom in the window in early spring.

ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE. 145

The best species for parlor culture is —

C. insigne. A noble plant from Nepal ; foliage narrow,
dark green; flower solitary (rarely two), three inches
broad, greenish edged with white; wings long, purple and
yellow. The flowers are very freely produced from Novem-
ber to February, and last two months in perfection.

We have now (January, 1876) a plant in the parlor win-
dow, with thirty-six flowers, which has been in full beauty
for four weeks; the pot is two feet in diameter, and this
plant has been grown from a single small pot in two years.
This, however, was in the greenhouse ; but in the parlor
the growth, though slower, is no less satisfactory.

Soil, rich peaty loam. This plant should never be al-
lowed to get dry, and requires very little rest. Grow in
full sunshine. |

C. venustum. A pretty species, with beautiful, variegated
foliage ; flowers, rich brown, green, and chocolate, but not
very showy.

Requires the same soil and general treatment as the last.

BLETIA,

A family of terrestrial orchids of easy culture. The root-

stocks should be potted in autumn, grown with plenty of
10

146 ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE.

sun and water. ‘The flowers are produced in March on ter-
minal spikes, and though transient, are very pretty.
Soil, rich loam. After blooming, the foliage dies away
and the roots go to rest.
.B. hyacinthina. A delicate species, with purple flowers,
marked with white, somewhat resembling our wild Calo-

pogon. Easily grown.

PHAIUS.

These plants are tall growers, with large broad evergreen
foliage, and tall scapes of large handsome flowers.

They need a rich soil, plenty of water, and full light and
sun-heat.

P. grandifolius, a native of China, grows and flowers
well in the parlor. Although an orchid it will stand more
yard usage than most plants.. The flowers are white ex-
ternally, purplish brown inside, lip white and brown.
Blooms freely from January to March. A more showy
plant, both in growth and flower, it would be hard to find.
We have grown plants, with forty scapes carrying more

than five hundred flowers.

ORCHIDS FOR PARLOR CULTURE. 147

GOODYERA.

Pretty terrestrial orchids, of which two species, natives of
shady woods, are very pretty parlor plants.

G. pubescens and repens are not rare plants, but if potted
in rich leaf mould they are very showy in window culture.
The foliage is green, with silver tracery; the flowers white,
in erect spikes.

“Many rare exotics possess.less beauty than these simple

native plants.

148 HYACINTHS, SUCCULENTS, AND EVERGREENS.

CHAPTER X.

Roman HyacitntHs: forcing for Christmas. SuccuLeNts as Window Plants.—
Harpy AND Hatr Harpy EVERGREENS: Hall and Vestibule Decoration. Hoi-
LIES. — RETINOSPORA. — YucCAS. — TAxus. — THUJA. — CUPRESSUS. — THUJOPSIS. —

Propagation of Eyergreens by Window Culture.

HE Roman Hyacinth is a charming early blooming
species admirably adapted for forcing, and -easily
grown in the parlor. It is the earliest autumn-flowering
bulb we have, and by potting for succession may be had in
bloom from November to March.
Each bulb gives from one to four spikes of pure white
deliciously fragrant flowers. .
They are best grown in large flat pans, and the bulbs,
which are small, should be planted about an inch apart each
way.
The soil should be sandy loam, and the plants should be
well grown, freely watered, and occasionally with liquid
manure. This plant has been long in cultivation, having

been introduced in 1596.

4
y

HYACINTHS, SUCCULENTS, AND EVERGREENS, 149

To have this plant in bloom for Christmas, when it is par-
ticularly valuable on account of the scarcity of pure white
flowers at that season, we should pot the bulbs the latter
part of September; set the pots in a dark place, watering
moderately for about three weeks. The pots will then be
full of roots, and the plants may be set in the window; the
shoots will grow rapidly and soon show flowers.

Botanically this plant is Bellevalia operculata, sometimes
Hyacinthus romanus.

Bulbs cost about six dollars a hundred.

SUCCULENTS.

The plants known as Succulents comprise many genera
varying much in appearance, but all requiring the same
general culture. The soil should be porous, well drained, and |
sandy loam. The pots should generally be small, as a ma-
jority of these plants are low, flat growers. Great care should
be used in watering, lest an excess make the plant rot off.

With few exception, these plants are valuable only, for
their neat and attractive growth or for beautiful foliage ; some
however are very beautiful in flower.

At present these plants are very popular, and many fine

collections exist, numbering many hundreds of species.

150 HYACINTHS, SUCCULENTS, AND EVERGREENS,

A window full of neatly potted plants of Sempervivum,
Haworthia, Echeveria, Aloe, Rhipsalis, Crassula, or in fact
of any of the many genera, is very attractive. Our space
allows us to mention but very few.

All the Sempervivums, from the common House-leek ‘
(S. tectorum), are very interesting; the neat rosette plants
are beautiful and the flowers curious.

The Echiverias are showy in foliage, and one variety £.
lutea grandiflora,is a free blooming and very handsome
plant. #. rosacea or mexicana is a glaucous green and
forms a perfect rosette.

Crassula perfoliata is an admirable window plant. The
flowers are pure white, in loose spikes, and are freely pro-
duced about Christmas.

Pachyphytum bracteosum has thick fleshy leaves, covered
with silvery bloom.

It is a very beautiful plant.

Othonna crassifolia has light yellowish-green fleshy foli-
age and bright yellow flowers. For a hanging basket, it is
invaluable, and in the garden it forms the best carpet for
bedding.

All the Century Plants (Agave) and Aloes are suitable

for window culture, although they are generally of large

HYACINTHS, SUCCULENTS, AND EVERGREENS. 151

growth. ‘They are however easily grown, require little care,

and are exceedingly ornamental.

HARDY AND HALF-HARDY EVERGREENS.

Many of these are of low growth, and are suitable for
hall or vestibule decoration. ‘They only require to be lifted
from the garden late in the autumn, and to be potted in
common loam.

During the winter they will not grow, so they need but
little water, —in fact the soil should be kept moist, but never
wet; the only other care they will require is frequent dust-
ing of the foliage with a feather duster.

In spring the plants may be planted out in the garden for
summer growth.

Some of the best plants for this mode of decoration are—

HOo.Lttuigs.

These plants are not thoroughly hardy in New eee
but for summer decoration they are very fine.

Some of the best varieties are —

Common Green Holly (lex aquifolium), in its many
varieties, Z ferox, myrtifolia, laurifolia, scottica, serrati-

- folia, angustifolia, and others.

152 HYACINTHS, SUCCULENTS, AND EVERGREENS.

The Variegated Hollies: Golden Queen and Silver
Queen.

All these can be imported, trained as bushes, pyramids, or
trees; and whether in foliage or also covered with the bright
scarlet berries, are very ornamental.

The American Holly (Jlex opaca) is hardy.

RETINOSPORA.

These are among the most beautiful of evergreens ; neat
in growth, attractive in appearance, dwarf, compact, and
often delicate and graceful in foliage, they possess all good
qualities.

Some of the best are FR. ericotdes, glaucous green with
purple tinge; filfera, long slender branches; lycopodi-
oides, very delicate ; the variegated varieties of obtusa, and

pisifera, all beautiful, and the showy plumosa.

YUCCAS.

These showy plants are adapted for hall decoration.

The best are Y. recurvata, gloriosa, aloefolia, and the
variegated kinds.

These are half-hardy; the more tender species need

greenhouse culture. Cee Nig

HYACINTHS, SUCCULENTS, AND EVERGREENS. 153

Taxus.
The Golden Yew (7° baccatta aurea) is a very handsome
plant, bright in color, and very desirable.
T. elegantissima is far brighter and better.
T. fastigiata is the Irish yew; a very erect grower, suit-

able for tubs on each side of a vestibule.

THUSA:

Many of the tender Arbor Vites are very handsome,
grown as specimens.
The best are 7. aurea and 7. semper aurea, the latter of

which retains its golden foliage throughout the year.

CUPRESSUS.

The cypress is not hardy with us, but is valuable for the
garden in summer and the hall in winter. |

The best is C. Lawsoniana in its many forms; pendulous,
variegated gold and silver, dwarf, and the magnificent fasti-
gate variety, C. erecta viridis.

All are beautiful, and the number to be grown is only to
be limited by the winter accommodation and the length of }

our purses. |

154 HYACINTHS, SUCCULENTS, AND EVERGREENS,

THUJOPSIS.

T. vorialis is a showy plant, not thoroughly hardy in
New England, though often surviving uninjured by the
winter.

It is of a bright lively green, of elegant growth, and re-

sembles a cross between a cypress and an arbor vite. °

PROPAGATION BY WINDOW CULTURE.

A very easy way to get a stock of young evergreens, and
at the same time to have a pretty show in a window, is to
take off the tips of the shoots of such varieties as we wish
to increase, in November.

Fill some long boxes which fit the window with pure
fresh white sand, level the surface, give a good watering,
and then plant the tips in close lines till the boxes are
filled. |

If we have the variegated kinds, the effect is very pretty.

Keep the sand just wet, do not allow the plants to freeze,
but keep them cool; give plenty of light but no hot sun.

This little window-garden will be very attractive, and by
spring many of the cuttings will have good roots, when

they may be planted out.

Viiihre
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