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Full text of "Winter and spring on the shores of the Mediterranean: or, The Genoese rivieras, Italy, Spain, Corfu, Greece, the archipelago, Constantinople, Corsica, Sicily, Sardinia, Malta, Algeria, Tunis, Smyrna, Asia Minor, with Biarritz and Arcachon, as winter climates"

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Mr.   &  Mrs.    E.L.   DelBeccaro 


STANFORD  UNIVBRSITT  LtRIARIlS 


.    1 
1 


'  I 


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i 

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MAT 


B  A  r 


r*M  Ian  M»m«<^ 


WINTER  AND  SPRING 


on  TBI 


SHOEES  OF  THE  MEDITEfiEANEAN : 

The  Genoese  Rivieras,  Italy,  Spain,  Corfu,  Greece, 

the  Archipelago,  Constantinople,  Corsica,  Sicily, 

Sardinia,  Malta,  Algeria,  Tunia,  Smyrna, 

Asia  Minor,  with  Biarritz  and  Arcachon, 

AS  WINTER  OLIHATi:S 


By    JAMES    HENKY^BENNET,    M.D. 

yiiiniii  (IF  THm  hotal  collioi  nr  mTfieiAifB,  LniiiKiH, 

LATH      DBBlVtAfO     FHTllCllH      10     THA     HOTA  L     FPU      B^lBPlTtL,    LOSJJOU, 

D&CdItO*    Ot    ABTES    mCHti-Ult   v7    I'llVhlC^.L    BCllffCIB. 

A^lr    m-CTUK    Ur   MlJflClVk  OV   Tdl    BUimilUlIt,    AHb   up   mK    VFITUBITV.    PAtla, 

flTC.    HTC^ 


'IIVB    HBDElKNjLTB    GAUDKT. 


Kii^n  EniTiox. 


LONDON  NEW   YOJiK 

J.   &    A,   CHUUCIIILL  a  Al'PLETON  &   CO. 

'    l«7i>  J 


'•q'j 


I'- 


h 


Sir  i\t  Ittmors 

JOSEPH    LANQSTAFF,    Esq., 
FBiiQw  or  tsB  loiAL  coLLBei  OF  susoBONB  SHOLUiD ; 

PRCSmKT  OP  m  KBOICU.  BOASD,  CAJ.CU1TA; 
WHO    PASBKD    KBTI    TXAH8    Of    BIB    LtPB    tlT    INfiU, 

Tais  Wobj: 

»  DEDICATED  fit   Ilia  BINCEKELI  ATTACHED  S0N-1!i-LAW, 

THE  AUTHOB. 


HIS  motto: 

'  lENS  BEDlENSqUE  OaVDET.' 


PREFACE. 


The  present  work  embodies  the  experience  of  fifteen  winters 
and  spring  passed  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean, 
frooi  October,  1859,  to  June,  1871,  under  tbe  followiug 
circnmGtancee : — 

Five-and- twenty  years  devoted  to  a  laborious  profeasion 
and  the  harassing  cares  which  pursue  a  bard-worktid 
London  physician,  broke  down  vital  powers.  In  1859  I 
)>ecame  consumptive,  and  Etrove  in  vnin  to  arrest  the  pro- 
gress of  disease.  At  last,  resigning  all  professional  duties,  I 
wrapped  ray  robes  around  me  and  departed  southwards,  in 
the  autumn  of  the  yt'ar  18jy,  to  die  in  a  quiet  corner  as 
I  and  my  friends  thought,  like  a  wounded  denizen  of  thi; 
forest.  It  was  not,  however,  to  be  so.  Tlie  reminiscences  of 
former  travel  took  me  to  Mentoue,  on  the  Genoese  Riviurii, 
and  under  its  genial  sky,  tVced  from  tlie  labours  uiid 
anxieties  of  former  lile,  to  my  very  great  surprise,  I  soon 
began  to  rally. 

The  second  winter  1  wished  to  (iud  a  locality  even  raoi-e 
favoured,  one  more  in  the  stream  of  life,  present  or  pust, 
and  sought  for  it  in  Italy.  Tlie  search,  however,  was 
vain,  and  tiie  unhygienic  state  of  tlie  large  towns  of  thut 
classical  land  partly  undid  the  good  previously  obtained. 
I  retraced  my  steps,  therefore,  and  again  took  refuge  in 
quiet,  healthy  Mentone,  The  second  trial  proved  even 
more  satisliictory  than  the  first.  I  gradually  attained  a 
very  tolerable  degree  of  convalescence,  and  once  more  my 
thoughts  instinctively  reverted  to  professional  studies  and 
to  professional  pursuits. 

To  return  altogether  to  the  nreiia  of  London  practice 
would  have  been  folly  for  one  just  recovering  from  so  fatal 
a  disease.  I  therefore  determined  to  adopt  Mentone  as  a 
permanent  winter  professional  residence,  merely  resuming 


VIII 


PREFACE. 


London  consitltiiig  prnctioiy  (luringr  the  vummer  months. 
Since  then  1  liave  adhered  to  this  plan,  and  have  spent  the 
wintctv  at.  Mvntone,  nnd  the  eiimmoiB  in  and  n(.<»r  London. 
Bi-twevn  tht!  close  of  the  Rivit^ra  winter  KCiuon,  and  the 
resumption  of  nrofeasiouttl  duties  in  London,  I  take  a 
holiday,  in  April  and  May,  and  have  every  year  employed 
thu  k-i»uro  in  the  inveEtigation  of  the  cHmati;  and  vc^-tntJon 
r>f  other  coantnes  on  the  ehorcs  of  the  Mcditi^rraneau. 
These  spring  jotirnoys  have  been  conscientiously  undertaken 
with  the  view  t^  discover  a  better  winter  climat«  than  that 
of  the  Genoese  Riviera,  ir  such  exists  in  thu  Mediterranean, 
1>oth  for  my  own  advantage  and  for  that  of  others.  They 
have  extended  over  a  period  of  more  than  eighteen  roontlis. 

Hitherto  I  have  not  succeeded  in  finding  a  butter  winter 
dimatvin  ihuMeclit^-rrunvan  ihnn  thai  ofthe  more  sheltered 
regions  of  the  western  Kiviera,  and  the  re&ullsi  of  niy 
reeearehes  may  be  embodied  in  a  i'ew  woids.  On  the  shores 
and  islands  of  the  Meditcrraue&a  there  are  two  kind^  ot* 
winter  elimatcs  : — let.  The  mild  and  dry  :  vi^.,  tlic  north 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean  in  gvneml,  and  more  especially 
the  western  Genoese  Itiviera,  and  the  east  coast  of  Spain. 
2nd.  The  mild  and  moist :  viz.,  the  lonLin  Inlands,  the 
Grecian  Archipolafjo,  Corsica,  Sicily,  Stirdiiiia,  Ktulta,  and 
also  the  south  coast  of  the  Medit<*rrujiean,  Algeria,  Tunisia, 
*he  delta  of  Lower  Egypt,  Paletitine,  and  jVsLn  Minor;  all 
in  vnrinbtc  degree.  I  must  refer  to  tlie  book  itself  for  the 
data  on  which  tliis  statement  is  founded. 

Thu  work  first  appeared  ae  a  mere  essav  on  tl)*  winter 
climate  and  vegetation  of  the  Mentone  am  phi  theatre,  and  was 
published  in  l!>61.  It  has  ci(i>atw]cd,in  sueccseivc editions, 
until  it  has  become  a  i;uTeful  nieli:uroUigii:iit  and  hotanictU 
study  of  the  vegetation  and  of  the  winter  and  iipring  olimat«6 
of  tiie  shores  nnd  isl.ii>ds  of  the  Mediterranean  basin,  with 
the  exeejition  of  Kgj-pt  and  Pulestiiio.  Not  liaving  u«  yvt 
visited  these  counttie*,  I  have  said  but  littk  aliout  them, 
my  rule  being  only  to  describe  localities  personally  explored. 
The  purely  scicntiliu  character  has  been,  >>  some  measure, 
Uiid  aside,  and  the  thoughts,  fancies,  and  travelling  iinpnw 
sions  of  a  long  |>enud  of  invalidism  have  been  recorded. 

Id  studying  the  climate  of  these  rarioua  regions  of  tl 


t 


PREFACE. 


.IX 


X«d!IS9Biki|fMa  I  have  taken  tut  my  guides  Bolan/ 
and  tlorlioultare,  bvcaase  they  are  the  tunet,  the  Imiit 
uipablo  of  daoeivioff.  Obwrvncioos  founded  oo  the  ther- 
mometer and  on  toe  TOgiatratton  of  wiridM  arc  very  un- 
certain, and  are  opea  to  many  sourocs  of  error.  Tlic  reaolu 
obtained  by  their  meann  may  lie  invalidated  by  bias  on  the 
part  of  thv  observer  or  by  hi*  ignorance  of  meteorology,  by 
imperfect  iDstrnrnvntfl  or  by  a  hadly-seleclcd  locality  for 
.observation. 

With  the  vegetable  world  it  ia  far  different,  for  it  eaonot 
deceive,  and  erroDeoas  conduaioiu  are  eatily  avoided  by  one 
who  knoWK  it*  tawa.  To  its  oamponent  members,  tompera- 
tare  is  simplv  a  nutter  of  life  and  death,  iind  the  prn^^'nou 
or  absence  of  a  plant  in  a  locality  mys  more  than  would 
pngM  of  thermomrtrical  observations.  Plants,  moreover, 
reveal  much  mure  thnn  mere  tcmperutura,  for  they  are  iu- 
llucnce'l  in  life,  health,  und  liixunancc  by  moisture  or  dry- 
,  Mas,  hy  wind  or  by  oalm,  and  by  the  nature  of  tho  soil  in 
which  they  grow. 

At  tbe  onme  time  I  have  avoided  entering  into  minute 

.botanical  detailjt,  or   giving  long  ligt*  of  planle,  for  my 

^bjoct  was  not  botanical  research  and  exactness ;   I  have 

wished   merely  to  study  climutc  through   vegetation.     I 

have  willed  to  flwcertain  by  the  obaervatioo  of   common 

trees,  sbnibs  and  flowers,  and  of  their  epoch  of  producing 

foliage  und    flowere,   the  difFerenoe   that  exiat«   between 

[ihe  winter  and  spring  chmato  of  difTcrent  regions  of  the 

Medilermiiean  an  oomnared  u-ilh  the  nurtb  of  Kurope. 

A  more  minute  stiiuy  of  the  Mediterranean  Flora  would, 

,  certainly,   havo   rendered   this   work   more   valuable  in  a 

[•oicntiGo  point  of  view.     I  am,  however,  on  the  one  hand, 

rjcaroely  prepred  for  such  a  study  by  previous  luboura  in 

the  direction  of  purely  scientilic  botany,  and  on  the  other 

I  might  have  repelled  mere  medical  and  general  readers,  to 

whom  I  tnoTC  eH]kcnnlly  iiddfCHS  myself,  and  who,  as  a  rule, 

U«  unacquainted  with  the  minutiie  of  botanical  scicnoc. 

As,  how*vcr,  my  descriptions  of  natural  piienoincTia  were 
written  on  the  spot,  and  may  W  troniiidered  earefu!  mental 
photograplia  of  what  nctnally  ex'uia  in  the  regions  dt^scribed, 
Uiey  may  prove  useful  even  to  scientihc  readers.     Frofeesed 


PREPACK. 


botanitts,  met«aro1ogitt«  abd  gcologiist*,  may  nee  more  m 
my  dcaeriptioDi  than  I  myself  see,  with  »  moTo  limited 
knowledge  of  tbeee  edeDoee. 

In  CV017  region  of  tlie  Meditvrmuean  examined,  both 
on  the  uortb  and  routb  >honw  and  on  the  islands, 
the  ground  in  any  given  point  is  occupied,  according  to  soil, 
by  pretty  nearly  tlie  same  plnnte  in  a  gi'mTut  Ktni'V.  la 
Other  wordt),  iilthotigli  in  any  rc^on  a  l>otani«[t  might  find 
in  a  equuro  tniln  iievi^rtil  hundred  s)>ecieB,  yet  tbe  ground  is 
•oUially  occupied  by  a  limited  Dumber  of  species  ;  they  aru 
tb*  real  inbabitants  of  the  country,  and  shoutder  the  ran-r 
Bpcci<9i  out  of  Iho  wiiy  into  bolu  and  corners  aa  it  were. 
Probably  this  is  the  caa«  everywhere,  and  makes  the  Fludy 
of  vrgetal4on,  in  a  supirficiid  sense,  a  much  v»m-r  iiiattor 
than  it  i(  genemlly  supiwecd  to  be.  Moreover,  the  Morn  of 
the  entire  Mediterranean  baain  is  everywhere  very  similar, 
ind4M(l  all  but  identical  in  its  main  features,  for  the  same 
toils  and  under  the  eamc  conditions  of  pratcctiun  and 
t^^rupcraturc.  This  will  be  perceived  by  my  dcfloriptious  of 
vegetation,  and  muat  be  the  explanation  and  excuee  for 
their  sameness. 

Although  mon^r  of  the  rcgioun  deceribwl  were  viBil«d 
several  time*  in  the  course  of  my  liiVeen  years'  rambles,  1 
have  adhered  throughout  to  the  narrative  elyle,  preserving 
tlie  finit  written  dexeriptiunH.  Fiivt  imprcK'-'iiinx  hiive,  or 
ought  to  have,  a  fie^hneaa  about  them  which  (^mntitute* 
the  cltnrm  of  a  book  of  travels,  if  cfaaim  it  bos ;  these  first 
impmHioiis  ore  essentially  fugitive,  tUey  cim  never  be  re- 
called. "We  never  again  see  even  the  loveliext  scene  in 
nature  nith  the  feelings  that  were  lirst  roused  in  our 
mindii.  I  have,  however,  modified  and  su|iplemented 
"  Hret  impressions"  whenever  neecsmry,  so  ae  to  secure 
correct  ucE«. 


I 


Tint  Vtanv,  WiraRiccr,  Scbiikt,  1 
ftnoarmua  Sinut,  Laxnott,         j 


Sutnmor. 
M  1x10:1^  roANCS  (nioMf). 


," ,'  '  '■    1  ■.  :-i 


CONTENTS. 


'  rtat 

labodnetofynnuib— 11ieUeditamii«a>iLbaDiiuiditieliiiiata      1 

PAET  I. 


THE  ITOBTH  SH0BE8  OF  THE  MfiDITEBBANEAK. 

THE  WESTEBN  BIVTEEA  Alf D  HBNTOHE. 

CHAPTEB  I. 

Mentone — Situation — Climate  as  showB  bj  v^^tation     .  8 

CHAPTER  n. 

G«ol0g7 — The  ontaceoos  or  secondary  period — The  nnminiilitio 
or  tropical  period — The  conf^lomerate  and  glacial  period — 
The  Bone  caverns — Fre-historic  man  .        .  .39 

CHAFTBB  III. 

Physical  geography  and  meteorology   of   the  Biviera   and 

of  Uentone <3^ 

CHAPTEB  IV. 
Flowen  and  hortioaltare  on  the  Biviera C<> 

CHAPTBE  V. 

The  Uedherranean — History— Navigation— Tides— Depth- 
Sonnding — Storms — Temperature— Fish — A  natoralist'H 
preMrre— Bine  oolmu— The  8t  Louis  rocks      .  -122 


XU  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTEE  VI, 

rial 
The  olimate  of  the  OeaoMe  Biviera  and  of  Mentone  considered 
medicallj 152 

CHAPTEE  VII, 

Uentoue  in  its  social  aspect — Amnsemente — Drivea— Bides — 
Pedestriui  ezcnraions  —  Uountaiu  vUlogeB  —  Casino — 
ChnrclieB— aociftl  life 173 

CHAPTEE  VIII. 

Western  Italy— The  two  Rivieras— Eastern  Italy — Bologna — 
Ancona— Taranto— Brindiei 207 

CHAPTEB  IX. 

Spain— Oarthaffena — Mq  roia— Elche — Alicante — Valencia — 

Cordova— SBTille— Malaga— Granada — Madrid— Vallado- 
lid— Bnrgos 245 

CHAPTEB  X. 

Corfu  and  the  Ionian  Islands— Greece  and  the  Archipelago— 
Conatantinopla— The  Danabe 292 


PART  n. 

THE  LABGE  ISLAITDS  OP  THB  MEDITEEEAKEAN, 

CHAPTEE  XI. 

Corsica — Its  physical,  geological,  botanical,  and  social  charac- 
teristics— Its  history — Its  climate — Ajacoio  and  Bastia  as 
winter  cliinat«a — Orezza  and  Gnagno  as  sunmer  stations 
— Sarhme — Bonifacio  and  the  eaatem  coast       .        •        .  331 


•  ■* 


oomKNTi. '  zm 


OHAPTBB  XH. 


fthnoo— Mwim*— Oitiiii*    Momit   BtM    Oyrwuie 
llMMtiim 406 

OEAPTBEXin. 

Sudimft— Tli«  ToyiRe— 1«  Xaddelena— llw  Stntiti  of  Bom* 
Cuio — FbTBMl  gMgn{>lir — Porto  Torrw—  BMwri— 
Oiilin    Oriituno    TglwiM — The  bdo  ud  iMd  minni 
ThaOMiipidmiii— dgliari -   .  iSB' 

QEATTnt  ZTV, 

MiH*-nw  TtTigs  finn  Tonu— Il^riaal  gnognpb j^-TaJatte 
— YageUtioiir-^nia  mteriop— Onttmlaoa— Tha  St  AntoDio 
gatdBU»— Windi — Tt*!"*^!! 4U 


PART  III. 

THE  SOTTTH  BH0BE9  OP  THE  MEDrTEBBAlTSAN. 

CHAPIXB  XV. 

Algiers  and  Algeiia^-The  tea  TOTage— Algierg— The  experi- 
mental garden— The  Trappiet  monoeteiy — Kabylia — Fort 
Napoleon— Blidah— The  Chifik  Gorge— MilianHh—Teniet- 
el-E&d- The  Cedu  foreat—The  Deeert^The  TtUle;  of  the 
Cheliff—Orteanaville—Oran— Climate  and  medical  oondn- 
mona 492 

CHUTEB  XVI. 

Toaia  and  Taniaiar— ArriTal- Bailroad— The  cil7— The  Berdo 
-T^^etataon—Oardena— Climate— The  roina  of  Oartliage  66ft 

OHAFTBB  XVIL 

Smjraa  and  Ana  Hiiun— /The  Golf  of  Bmjmar— The  citf^ 
Vegetation— Climate— A  flra— The  misa  of  Bpheana        .  574 


XIV  CONTENTS. 


PART  IV. 

THE  ITALIAN  LAKES— BIABEITZ- ARC ACHON-THER. 
MOMETBICAL  TABLES  AND  EBMARKS  —  THE 
JOtJBNET  TO  THE  MEDITBBBANEAN  AND  THE 
BETUBN. 

CHAPTER  XVnL 

riei 

The  Italian  lates — Lake  Iseo— Como — Lngano — Uaggiore— 

Orto — The    Scotch   Lochs — Loch   Awe — Loch   Uaree — 

Iselle— The  Simplon  Pus &8I 

CHAFTEB  SIX. 

Bi&rritE —' BiBTTitz  as  an  antamn  and  winter  reiidence  — 
Situation— Cliiaat« — Seabathing — The  lat«  Imperial  resi- 
dence—Arcachon        .        ■ 604 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Thermometrical  Tables  and  Bemarks 617 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
The  jonmej  from  England  to  Uie  liediterranesn— The  Return  630 


LIST  OF  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTRATIOXS. 


Tilt  Engravingt  and  Jlapt  to  h*  hovnd  opporite  thepofo. 

nOKTTSFUCK.     PAHOIUf A  OT  TBS  MUfTtWI  AMrOITHMAnB. 
VUIOEUIA  MAP  OI    THI  SVLV  OT  SKTOA  AMD  OT  IBM  WUM- 

BODSDIHS  NODHTAm 1 

tWALLUT  OOTWABD  SOUXD 7 

Tllir  OT  TBI  KASTIXX  tlDX  OW  THI  MSKTOKl  AMVBITHXATU  IS 

TBB  LBVOM  OIBL -.■...'..•  19 

THE  OLD  OLITtTKII 20 

OKOLOOICAI.  CHAKT 40 

rOHIL   VrVKDLITSB .,,.■.  42 

THE    BONK  CIVBBKS eO 

riB-ADAVlTS   TLINT    ISBTXUMBKTS 63 

THI  POHIL  KAK 55 

MT  ITALIAN  aAXDSir  (bntbahcb) 06 

MT  ITALIAN  QABDSN   (LSISrSB  HOUBB) 102 

THE    LIEYII.  FISH 136 

TH(     BT.    I.OUIB  BOCKS    ANS  BKIDOB 148 

FANOBAKA   HAP  OX   HBNTONB 174 

TBB  ItONKBT  WOKAIf 166 

TBB   DOSEBT    BOT ]  86 

TBB  OLD   TOWN  or   B BNTONB 194 

THB   SOBDIQBE&A  FALM    OBOTB 230 

7ANOBABA    MAP   OF   IPAIH 245 

TICEIT  OFFICB  FOB  TBB  BULL-FiaBT 250 

THE   ILHAMBBA — COUBT    OF     LIONB 284 

TBB   ALHAKBBA 29] 

PANOEABA  HAP   OP  COBSICA 331 


XVI  UBT  OF  MAPS  AND  ELLUSTBATIONS. 

Ttam 

C0K8ICAR  HOmiTAIKB  IT  iniTKIBI 332 

rASO^AMi  HAP  OF  SICILT 406 

PAKOXUtJl  MAP  or  BUIDIItIA 459 

rAKOBAlfA  >IAP  0>  ALOBXU 493 

Tinr  or  alsibu , 497 

TXILXD  AKAB  TOIUK 409 

ABAS  KXHDICAltl 600 

OLD  XZOXO  KUSICIAKS 601 

ASAB  aiBL       602 

RBBBT  AC  ALOIXBB 604 

JBW  corrsB  bxllbb 606 

DAXCIBS  SIBL 507 

TBZ  TBAPPIBT  ZOVkVX h20 

KABTU   TILLAGX   AND   WOHBN           584 

THB  ABAB  TBIIT 558 

BurriB 681 

THB  PWAIXOW  BOUXWAKS  BODBD 646 

PABOBAltA  HAP  or  THB  KXDITBBIAirBAK  BABIH  (at  KND  OV 

max) 656 


The  Mapa  contained  in  this  work  are  cbromolitLograplied  bj 
M.  Erhard,  of  Fane. 

The  Frontispiece  ia  chromoUUiogTaphed  &om  a  water-colour  of 
Mr.  £.  Binjon,  hj  MesBTS.  Brooks.  The  woodcata  are  bj-  Uesara. 
Bntt«rwortii  and  Heath,  from  aketcheB  and  ironi  photographB  bj 
U.  Davenne  and  bj  Mr.  W.  Roach.  The  Algerine  wood  engrav* 
ingB  are  priudpallf  from  photographB  hj  MesBrs,  Oeiser,  of 
Algiers. 


WINTER  AND  SPRING 


OS    THE 


SHORES  OP  THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 

THE  IIEDITBBRA.MEAN    BASIN    AND   ITS    CLIMATE. 

The  fifteen  winters  that  I  have  ^pent  oil  the  Genoese 
Riviera  is  etudy  and  meditation,  the  yeur  iiiid  a  halt' 
devoted,  in  April  and  May,  to  the  exploration  of  ihi;  Mi'di- 
lerrjncon  shores  and  ii-lands,  iiavc  produwd  their  I'niits. 
I  have  attained  a  muL'h  more  comprclicni^ivt.'  kixmlud^o  ol 
the  climate  of  the  MediteiTiuu-an  gcntirally,  as  iilsu  of  ilt 
vegetation,  than  I  po^csEed  wlien  the  Hrst  tditioun  of  ihis 
Work  were  puhliHlied.  By  df^'^rei-s,  as  my  iKiisoiiai  vx- 
pericnce  of  the  diliertiiit  ri.'^i<>iiij  of  tho  <rri;at  iiiiiind  i-vu  \itiy 
extended,  an  my  Unowledyu  of  its  vi'tii.'tiilioii  Ujis  iuc'ri^i'^cd, 
the  laws  wiiieh  ri'^ulalu  aiid  di'cidi;  tlie  )k>dili'i'i'atie:iii 
elimateij  liave  beenmu  deuiTi-,  nioie  iiret-ir-u.  It  is  my  wish 
and  intention  intlies^c  iutroduefory  lemiirlis  tostiilc,  liuiilly 
and  eoncist'ly,  what  these  law*!  are.  Tlivy  will  cdii-litulr 
the  key  to  tlie  <.ntii-e  work,  and  will  tind  llair  fxplitnation 
and  elucidation  in  each  ^ncecssivL'  (:ha]it('i'. 

Climate  may  he  e-aid  to  be  the  result  i>]'  ■rcoMi-ii]>hii-al 
oonditions  and  of  jiroximily  to  hind  or  wati:r.  Wiallii-r 
depends  on  seasunw  and  on  "wliieli  wav  the  wind 
l)l..ws." 

Except  in  the  Tr0]iics,  winds  I'rtun  the  north  arc  euld  in 
winter,  eool  in  summer;  whiUt  winds  licnn  the  umlii  nre 
niild  in  winter,  hul  in  siinnnor.  Attain,  both  in  u'lnter  and 
tiummer,  winds   north  or  toutli  are  dry  if  they  ociiie   ovrr 

B 


2  THE  MEDITERRANEAN   BASIN. 

ciintinenU  and   moiintainti,  inout  if  th«y  enme  over  waterj 
ocfiao,  sea,  or  lake. 

TIk<s(?  data  unr  rascepUMo  of  so  ;;cneral  an  applicalion^ 
timt  tt  ])cr«o»  posEU»«)  of  »  moderAW  kti()wio>Ip.'or  mctt«i>-J 
olo^y  and  of  (ilivsii'nl  gwjrrKjiliy  iniirlit  nlinosl  dett^ritiii>« 
the  dim»t«  of  any  reijioii  fif  the  e;iitli  without  leaving  his 
study, 

Tim  McditcrruncAi),  the  flortli's  "  ffrent  inland  ««,' 
comprinL-d  liriwotin  latitude  45* mid  -Id'  i^orlli,  and  liL'tvreeu 
lonatiimle  5*  W.  and  W  E.     lu  width  from  the  Straits  . 
Gibroltar  to  Syria  in  S^UU  miles.     Its  bri-iidth  at  the  iiai 
rowiiit,  part,  Iwtwwn  Sicily  und  Afriai,  is  'rt  miU-« ;  at  tli( 
liruadi-Ht  part,  fn>m   the   liend   of  tlie   Adriatic  to  Alriciiy^ 
liOa  inilea.     IFiile  Map  at  end.) 

The  North  shotee  of  tho  Mcditorrnncan,  from  Gibraltar 
to  Constant! nt' pip,  «rc  frinfjcd  hy  niuiinUiiiis,  grncrnlly 
abiitlii)<;  on  the  ahnrtui,  which  coiiittitutc  the  southern 
estrcinity  of  the  continent  of  Europe.  The  South  shores 
of  the  Mediterranean  are  partly  ocou|)ied  by  a  narrow  nin^ 
of  niouiiliiinB  and  inoiinlain  land  (Atlas)  and  piirlly  hy  tliu 
de*ort  of  Sahara,  whii-h  averf  a  {irkint  portion  of  the  con- 
tinent of  AfricJt.  The  gn-at  desert  bcj^iia  behind  the  Atlaa 
ranse,  not  moie  than  a  hundred  miles  from  the  soa,  and 
reaches  its  shon-s  between  Tripoli  aqd  Syria,  The  desert 
of  Sahnni  is  Micved  to  Iw  the  hottest  re^rion  in  the  world. 
The  inlands  of  the  Mcdilerranean  are  all  mountainous. 
They  may  he  oaid  to  be  the  summits  of  submarine  moun* 
tains  and  of  mountain  ranges. 

Thns  the  Mi'diU^rraiiwm  it  n  suUtropical  n-gion  by  lati- 
tude. DiyHii'uUy  it  is  u  deep  depre^Aion  or  bn«ii),  com- 
municatin^;  witli  tho  ooean.  frinKcd  continuously  t\'ith  hitili 
mountains  on  ils  north  shore,  hounded  by  lower  moiinlnins 
nnd  by  tlio  i^nntlest  and  hotl»t  desert  of  the  globe  on  it« 
southent  «hore. 

I'rom  its  i<ul>tro)iical  position  the  sun  is  very  powerful, 
winter  and  summer,  all  over  the  Mcditcrmncan,  when  not 
olmcurwl  by  clouds,  l'"roni  its  geographical  position,  sur- 
ronnde'l  by  Innd  and  hy  coiitjnonl*,  eluiidy  nv-^itluT  in  not 
veiy  (rk-queni,  nor  in  rain  very  abundant,  so  that  liie  clinmte 
i^  excvptionally  snnny,  winter  as  well  as  summer.    Ad  the 


atmospbero  tiaon  geaenily  dry,  the  sky  is  eeaeraUy  elur 
mA  blae,  wad  the  rays  of  tka  sua  ba<ra  ootoal^  mora  pow^r 
tiuu  in  the  tropin. 

Id  wintw,  when  the  oontiuent  of  Earope  is  bound  up  iii 
frostaod  corered  with  snow,  when  th«  maiintiiiuj  of  Nur- 
wajrind  Sweden,  the  Baltie  sod  Polar  r«i^ions,  artj  aneiniias 
o!  ice,  a  north  wind,  crossing  the  Mi^turniiieati  in  a  tew 
honrs,  brin^  cold  weather  to  the  entire  inliiitd  si:.i,  to  its 
isUnds,  and  to  its sOBthem  shores.  Thus  in  winWr  itisolk-n 
oold,and  oocostonally  freezes  at  Algiers,  Tuiii^,  Aliiduiilriu, 
Beymt.  Hoarfrost  may  be  seen  day  ai'ter  djy  at  siitiriee 
IB  the  defl»t  of  Sa&aru,  south  of  the  Atlus  (Tiistiun). 

Inspria^, in  AprilaodeveninMay, acoldiiuith  wiQ<i  may 
bring  oool,  even  chilly,  weather  to  these  sonlhei-n  regions. 
I  have  been  quite  ootd,  with  a  norl^-west  wind,  ui  Alliens 
on  the  12th  of  April.  This  very  year  (187 1),  dnring  the  ' 
first  week  in  May,  at  Tunis,  the  nights  were  coul,  Mow 
60°  Pah,,  and  the  day  not  above  68°  or  70°  in  a  west  room. 

Id  winter,  on  the  other  band,  a  south-west  equatorial 
wind,  or  a  south-east  Sahara  wind  (scirocco),  lasting  several 
days,  will  bring  mild  weather,  not  only  all  over  the  Medi- 
terranean, but  all  over  Europe,  up  to  St.  Petersburg. 

Id  spring,  in  April  and  May,  the  same  winds,  especially 
the  south-east  or  Sahara  wind,  may  bring  intense  heat  to 
alt  parts  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  what  is  usually,  but 
irrationally,  termed  "unseiisonable  heat"  to  all  parts  of  the 
continent  of  Kurope,  as  far  north  as  St.  Petersburg.  Such 
heat  and  such  wind^i,  however,  in  epiiug  never  last  more 
than  a  lew  days  either  in  the  Mediterranean  or  in  conti- 
nental Europe,  the  north  winds  resuming  their  sway.  In- 
deed Europe  may  be  said  to  lie  between  an  ice  house,  the 
polar  regions,  and  a  furnace,  the  desert  of  Sahara. 

Thus,  in  no  part  of  the  Mediterranean  basin,  shores,  nnd 
islands,  is  there  an  immunity  frtim  cold  and  frost  in  winter 
from  mere  latitude;  neither  ia  ther«  anywhere — glorious 
as  is  the  spring — perfect  immunity  from  chilly  winds  or 
weather  iu  spring  from  mere  latitude. 

Immunity  from  cold  wind  in  winter  and  from  chilly  wind 
in  spring  can  only  be  secured,  even  in  the  Mediterninean, 
by  the  protection  of  high  mountiiina  running  e:i'>t  and  west. 

b3 


THE  MEmTERKASE.\S    BA8IN. 


i 


Moi]i>t»in   ridi^ea  and  nnasees  wliicit  run  from  fuet  to  wc 
intDTccpt  norih  windti,  whether  these  winds  are  iiortb-i-i 
w  iiurUi-wi'st,  ^  Muuiitiiin   ndsM  niniiinsi  from  norUi  to' 
Houtli,  nil  lilt'  ApdiiiintDi,  int(.-ri.'cpl  c>np  of  thrtv  wiiidf  only, 
llie   norlti-mvt  or  the  north-west,  uL-coniing  Ut  tht;  wiile  on 
whk'h  thf  olnserver  is  jilui^td,     Thi-y  do  not  iutereejit  liolb, 
Ko  Hint  th«  protection  thi'v  give  fiuin  north  n-iods  a  only  I 
imttiiil. 

Tlie    dc){rcc   of  prutection  gireii   hy  moiintuin  Hdge«, 
whether  runniii^ir  ^^^^  "i^d  tvcst  or  noi-thand  south,  depends 
on  iwvvral  iToixlitioiis — th«  hcinlit  of  the  moiintniits,  Ihrir 
Mope,  iii<  tlu*  inoru  ptTpL^idicnliir  thi-y  iirc  t)ii;  [;r<;>it4>r  tlitti 
pi-olei-tion  ;  the  di^jilh  and  extent  of  the  moiitituin  n-^ton ;  > 
ItiD  |)roximity  of  iIil-  observer  tu  Hie  base  oftlie  mountain, > 
fill  thf  nmrcr  lie  is  Die  griitti-r  the  protection.     This  hitter 
fact  in  ilhiftrntvd  by  fmit  Irck-v  in  nn  orehard  ;   tlioec  naikd 
to  the  .iheltvring  muII  arc  more  protected  from  a  north 
nind  lilouini;  over  it  than  those  that  are  planted  at  i>ome 
distance  from  its  base. 

Ulie  maps  appended  to  thid  vrt>rk  have  heen  specially' 
rnjjravi-d  iieKinHn^  to  my  directionti,  (w  t\»  to  fjivc  the' 
ictiitive  clcvaiiou  and  power  of  the  m»nnLuin»  of  KuuthiTtt 
Ktiropeand  of  the  Klediterranenn  luibin.  They  are  intended 
III  allord  u  panoramic  viciv  of  the  Mediterruiiean  rej^ons  »n 
teen  from  nhove,  ami  l"  ilhwtnite  ihc  givut  and  important 
ijiii'Klioii  iif  proli-irtion  from  north  wind-t. 

Not«i(hi'tfliidiiig  all  my  travels  in  the  Mediterranean, 
all  my  researches  and  investigations  into  the  climate  of  il« 
viin«n8  rcffione,  1  have  hitherto  liiih-d  t"  iliwiover  a  ioeiililjr 
more  »hellrred  from  eold  windu,  I'rmt,  and  lain,  thnn  tlia{ 
(■<'nu««t:  Western  Itiviera,  especially  the  region  extendinij 
Ifom  \illo  Fianehe  to  St.  Itemo.  Indeed  I  have  not  foui 
B8  yet  a  Figion  where  the  vt-jji-tution  i«as  southern,  or  j^ircs 
fvidcneu ot  as  much  uliellcr.  with  the  exception  ul' thclm«oof 
Hie  mountiiinf  in  tiie  victnily  ol  Mitl:ifi;i(  or  the  base  of  the 
J)nlmaHan  monnlnitjs,  in  front  and  north  ofCorla. 

Thim  the  prepostessions  of  the  meiv  tourist  nliich  led 
tne  to  settle  as  an  invalid  at  Mcntonc,  on  the  Uiviira,  in 
\i)hV,  have  Ihtii  jiihlitiid  by  ^iihsetpieiit  rcKi-iinh  and  cx- 
pvrirncf.     Thnl  it  iilioiild  W  eo  will  be  at  onic  ajipurent  to  J 


IXTRODUCTORV  REMARKS. 


m 


any  who  cost  thnr  eye  orcr  the  naap  of  tli«  (iiilf  of  OeiKw  it 
the  Winnnio^  of  tliu  next  chapter.  It  will  be  aeen  at  otu-t 
tfaot  riiit  only  is  there  in  this  region  m«rked  )>n}t«ction  I'roin 
the  north,  hut  also  from  the  nnrth  pjhI  mul  nDrth-wwt. 
Hiffli,  dwt>  mmmtiiiriH  r«rni  ■  Mmicinzlo  r<iiiii<l  Ihu  (inH'  ui' 
Genoa,  giich  as  't»  not  to  he  toimd  iu  any  other  part  of  Iho 
Mi'ilitrrraniMn. 

The  iKwuliariy  mild  dimato  of  tli^  oiwt-linc  of  the  (juif 
of  (>en<M.  known  under  the  iuii»e»r  Hivittrn  di  [jirvuntoAnd 
Riviera  di  l'uti«nte,  or  Kaateni  and  WcHtern  Kiviora,  is 
indeed  much  more  relerable  to  the  protection  afforded  I'v 
lootitnin  mii!^«  than  to  latitude.  Thv  Alps  and  A|ie:ii)iiR>s 
nn  an  inimeikne  M^rei.')!  to  the  iiorlh-e««t.  The  Sitiss  A1|hi, 
which  l«riuii)ate  rather  abniplly  in  the  plains  of  Piudimnit 
by  the  tfrood  Alpine  hei^ht^  of  Mont  Ceni)!,  Mont  St. 
Bernard,  Mont  Simplon,  ar«  continued  in  Savoy  and  Dnu- 
phiny  down  to  the  Meditorranean  at  Toulon,  Ilyt-ix'S, 
Cftnues,  and  Nice.  From  Nim  the  monnlam  nin^o,  whidi 
Llhen  lake*  the  nnnie  of  Miiritimc  Al]iit,  Kliirt-s  the  nhurv  of 
'Mm  Uiiir  or  (iftioa  in  a  north-ea:<tt-rly  dir<.taioti  ita  I'nr  iw 
that  city,  and  in  a  0ODtii-«ast«rly  dir-'ction  as  Tar  a4  Lucca. 
At  Uenou  it  nnit««  with  the  Apcnniiico,  or  ratlu-r  hveomM 
tb«  Apennines.  At  I/h-ca,  Wving  the  ooaot,  iho  Apeiitiinm 
i^tiuy  Cvnlral  Italy,  Ibrining  a  kind  of  hauklioii«,  m  far 
gntL  as  Uejif^io. 
O'viht;  tu  thia  latter  g^otfi-aphicul  Inct  Ibdy  is  less 
ahi-lt'i-ri-d  than  the  vowt  of  tliu  Uulf  of  Genoa,  and  Ihe 
l)«altli  cltninlw  of  lt«ly  are  liniit<-d  to  ibi  ivfuu-rn  rhrirea. 
'The  A(ienui'i«s  separate  Italy  into  two  loii|;'tud)iial  sectioiis, 
fr<Kn  (jenoa  to  the  straits  uf^Mesbina,  and  aslheaonionnUiins 
ri»e  ff"m  fonr  to  ninv  thoitNind  feet  in  lK-i>;hl,  they  conotitulv 
A  tittrrit-r  whieh  prolecU  the  «itire  wettlern  eua«t>line  from 
the  north-<!ni>t  winiU  of  eentral  and  oortheni  Kiirope,  Thence 
a  totally  dilferLDt  winter  climate  tliron-^liotit  the  luhiin 
pi:niii>ula,  on  tUe  ea^l  and  west  of  the  Apeniiim*  riil;j;<-.  On 
tile  ciuilcrn,  or  Adriatic  side,  in  th«  plaiiiH  of  fii-dtnont, 
I'mhria,  and  lliu  .Maivlns,  on'inj;  to  the  pre^li>miniinc«  of 
the  uuld  windii  front  the  centre  and  east  of  Ktirope,  the 
wintof  and  aprin^  are  very  cold,  inneli  colder  than  on  thu 
wcntern  or   Mediterranean  stdv,  the  one  on  whieli  we  Hiid 


6 


THE   MEDITEHBANKAN   DABIN. 


the  Itjilian  plensmre  citifs,  Piea,  I'lorence,  Home,  Xa pies. 
Tlie  wmttrn  (Must  uf  Italy  ie  nut  tmly  piotcclcd  IVom  tlie 
noi'tli-ciiet  (vindc,  nliii-li  iiro  ibc  coltk-st  in  winter  in  Etiiogio, 
bull  it  is  n]H.Mi  to  tliv  wiirm  N'lutli-weit  wiii(lj<,  uliic-ti  very 
olicii  blon-  lirim  IIil*  Mrditt^rruiieaii  during  autiiniti  and 
epi'iufT)  and  lirin:?  wiih  tliem  warm  et-a-currenfc.  At  th« 
Miin»  time,  it  is  entirely  ojicn  to  the  tiaith-woet  winds,  which 
in  winter  iiivolti-ii  VLTV  lii.'t-n.  Tlie  Wi-sH'in  Hivirrn.on  tlie 
uontniry,  i*  uUu  ehdlt'rt-d  IVinn  ihtwc  li'ji'th>wc»l  wiiiiJM. 

Frot«i;tioti  from  tlie  luirlli-winds,  and  espooLire  to  the 
euntli-wimis,  however,  <;ives  to  thvviitiro  rei^ion  fromTouloo 
lu  Pieii,  a  mildness  of  winter  climotv  whivh  Intitudu  alonu 
wonid  iii't  iin|>iii-t,  dilli-rin^  in  degti-e  airi:titiliii{;  In  locidity. 
TliUH  Meiiliini!  and  Monarn,  two  of  llio  muHt  xhidten.^  and 
wurtnent  sputt*  on  the  iiiulli  toast  of  the  Metiitorranean,  lire 
situated  only  in  lalitode  4^°  45',  between  tliirty  and  Ibrty 
niil'K  more  to  the  north  than  Toulon  (43°  i'}  or  Mniseillrs 
(18''  17')!  bnt  thi)  lalter  are,  the  one  Icm  pvoteeted,  the 
otlier  un|iri>t(Nrted,  niirt hwardft,  by  inoiintMiii  ruii<^-N,  und 
consequently  at  Manrt^ille^  very  sbuip  lio^ts  take  pluce every 
winter.  Nor  in  this  sinpTisin);  when  we  consider  tbnt  in 
the  north  mid  centre  of  Europe  llu-  ground  is  ofltn  covered 
with  mow  lor  many  inoiithii  dnriiij;  winter,  and  that  a  high 
wind  truvolti  at  the  rate  of  from  thirty  to  forty  mileit  an 
hour.  The  distance,  any  from  the  highest  Swi^s  inounlaiu, 
Ds  rt'presented  by  Mont  Diane,  lo  the  MediterratieaD  is  not 
more  than  a  hundred  and  sixty  miles.  Astrun;;  north  wiuil 
will  not  only  naeli  the  cuuitt-line  in  a  few  Imnii^,  wbcru 
iiiiiirpedt'd  l>y  mounlninif,  brin^in;;  with  it  cold  weulht-r  to 
all  iinproleLled  regions,  but  it  will  crdsa  the  Meiliu-rrun<:an 
iind  bring  cold  i-ains,  and  even  Irost,  to  Algeria,  and  to  tlie 
imrth  of  Alrini, 

During  (lit-  winter  the  most  protected  and  watmcst  luirt 
uf  this  Bonlh-euxtein  eoa*t  of  Frunee  and  wc>letn  eoarl  ol' 
It:ily,  the  uiidtreliir  «f  eentnil  KuTope,  is  unquestionably 
the  Hiviera  di  I'onente,  or  Western  Kiviera,  <'\Ieiidiii|^  from 
N ire  to  (lenoa.  The  excciilionally  mild  winter  climate  of 
this  region  in  principally  to  be  ottribnt'd  lo  the  fjrcat  height 
of  the  monntiiin  range  skirling  iherhore,  and  Id  its  cxln-nio 
proximity  to  the  sta.    Ai>  one  o)  il»  iiamiti  implies,  Curnieei 


IXTHODl'tTOltY    KKHAKKH. 


■bou' 


the  Hiviom  is  a  mCK  Lfd'je  or  coaet-line  at  tlit?  fuot  of  tb« 
moll  II  In  inn,  which  pn>U.-Cl  it  iiorth-ncst  niiil  north -inut. 

My  kii4)n-le<)^'  ol'  Ihi;  winter  cliniiito  iind  of  tlie  vc^tiuj 
tion  itf  tho  Mediu-rraueiiii  id  |iriii(.'i[ialK'  Uerived  i'nim  nij 
Hi'pti  wliiti'r*'  rtrsidencii"  at  ,M«utone,  on  tho  Western 
ivicra ;  hitt  my  Fpriiifj  tmvL-ls  hnvc  shown  mi.-  Unit  iho 
inil  phyiit-nl,  gwildgliMl,  met^orohi^ical ,  and  hwtunii-iil 
iitinnft  of  the  Me<)itcTraiii:iin  «b«r«t  uiiil  ii>liini]s  are  so 
far  i(leuti<!al  thai  the  fads  olwerved  in  un«  r«gion  a)>(>ly  to 
All,  with  eurh  mod iht-ut ions  ns  the  j^rciitcr  or  less  umount 
ofshclttrand  tin;  nature  of  the  soil  imply. 

I  piitiKMe,  tht'ri'futr,  in  Ihu  fn^l  piirt  of  ihiif  work  U> 
diitizrilie  the  north  .4)1  ore  of  thv  ML-dileiTiiiieun,  l;iUiii^  aa 
an  i1!u6triitifln  its  moat  sheltered  rtjjioii,  the  XVtilern 
Uivitfrii.  Wilh  Ihfs  iiitcntioit  1  shall  nmre  especially  study 
iho  L'limntc,  yivolngy,  and  vc^Htion  of  the  Mrntoiiu 
amphithmtn.',  adding  a  griii;rul  :i(-(.-oi4nt  of  the  MrditL-r> 
ntneuu  Son.  In  the  second  [larl  1  yliul)  i)<«:ril>c  tliu  lar^e 
ilaDds  of  the  Mediterranean ;  and  in  the  thiixl  purl  itti 
th  shore. 

The  opening  of  the  r.iilwiiy  froiii  I'aris  to  Nice  and 
Genoa  has  rendered  the  lovely  lUvii-ni  vi-ry  etii^y  of  nvuctnt, 
wen  to  roritlrnii-d  invalids,  aud  1  believe  that  the  t^me  is 
t'a>t  iippToMi'liinij;  when  tenit  of  Ihotiaonds  from  the  lioilb  of 
Kur<ij>e  w  ill  udopt  the  habita  'if  tlit^  stvalluw,  and  traiistbnn 
etery  town  and  village  on  ita  ciiaat  into  sunny  winter 
Ktn-nts.  1  tnny  remark  that  it  is  the  fin-t  (mint  of  the 
Mrditermuean  shore  wliere  hinls  ofpoMsge  Irum  tho  north 
make  a  bait  fur  the  winter. 


imlHAhii  UvlM 


PART  I. 

THE  NORTH  SHORE  OF  THE  MEDITERRANBAS. 


THE  WESTERN  RIVIERA  AND  MENTONE. 
CHAPTER   I. 

ilESTONE — SITUATION CMMaTK  AS  SHOWS  BY  VEGETATION. 

"  lodi  i  monti  Lignstici  e  Riviera 

Clie  cor  aroDci  e  aempTe  verdi  mirti, 
Qaasi  avendo  perpetua  primaTera 
Spurge  per  I'ana,  bene  olonti  spirti." 

Ariosto,  Canto  prime,  Iiiii. 

There  are  few  old  Italiaa  travellers  to  whose  mind  the 
word  "  Hiviera"  does  not  recall  the  recollection  of  happ/ 
days  of  leisurely  vetturino  progress,  along  a  sunny,  pie- 
tureaque  shore,  overshadowed  by '  bold  mountains,  and 
inhabited  by  Rshermen  who,  on  a  fine  autumnal  evening, 
often  seem  to  realize  the  sc^ne  of  the  market  chorus  in 
"  Masaniello."  When,  overtaken  by  ill  health,  I  was 
obliged  to  abandon  the  hard  work  of  active  life,  it  was  a 
consolation  to  me  to  know  that  I  could  migrate  to  this  sun- 
favoured  cOast,  and  conscientiously  spend  the  dreary  winter, 
in  legitimate  idleness,  on  a  shore  which  memory  painted  in 
(flowing  colours.  In  this  instance  the  memories  of  the  past 
viere  fully  verified  by  the  realitits  of  acttial  experience;  and 
now  that  rest  and  mild  southern  winters  have  restored  me, 
in  a  meiiaure,  to  health,  I  am  desirous  to  make  known  the 
Riviera  and  Mentone  to  the  tribe  of  sufferers  obli>^ed  to  fly 
in  winter  from  the  British  Isles;  for  our  beloved  country  is 
"merrie,"  in  winter,  only  for  the  hale  and  strong,  who  can 
defy  and  enjoy  the  cutting  winds,  the  rain,  the  snow,  and 
the  frost  of  a  northern  land. 

Along  the  entire  Riviera  there  is  no  more  picturesque  spot 
th.iii  the  one  in  wliioh  Mentone  lies,  encircled  by  its  amphi- 


SITUATION. 


9 


mountains;  my  selec4ion  of  a  wiator  home  vru 
tl)ii9  a  rortunate  one. 

McnutDu  16  M  smiill  Italtnn  town  oF  five  tlioiiKand  inhabi*:! 
t«tit«i,  !(ilunt«tl  in  latiiude  -t-'l"  lit',  ninotcen  miles  inu't 
Nice,  at  tite  fwit  of  the  Maritime  Alps.     It  is  the  fir 
nLiitiun  oat  of  Niw,  on  the  Cornioe  road  to  Genoa,  and  wa 
tlM  Ur>f«iit  lowD  of  the  priocipality  of  Moiiuco  hcforo  it 
SDDexaliun  to  Fnmoi-,  nlun>;  with  H'vx. 

TbeUulfof  Ucitnii  ih  forntwl  betweeu  Nicse  and  Lucca, 
l>y  tJie  Miiriliiiie  \\\»  and  the  Apenuines,  tl>e  iintnense 
naasaa  of  wtiich  dcaoead  to  the  sea  so  abruptly  in  eunie 
places  as  to  Usirft  no  shore, their  beetlin;^  cr^i:^  tormimitin<» 
dirx-cUy  in  the  mm.    TIiim  ia  the  uukv  imtiii-diiitily  Wiiiiid 
uml  to  the  eastwurd  of  Nice.     Owinj;  ti>  tlitn  (Urt->jm>lanutf, 
lliofe  was  formeily  no  continuous  curriau^  niad  from  Nice 
to  (tcn<Ni.     The  tun<l  coinmiiuicatiDn  bulweL-n  these  citiesj 
WB«  carried  on  by   muaiu  of  ii  very  pict unique,  but  very! 
unaafe  mule  track,  along  ilui  rooky  coii^t.     Thu  carriagof 
t^oad  Uiat  now  vx-'wUt  was  commenced  by  Napolixin  al  tho 
lietnunin;;  of  the   century,   as  a   military   roiul,   all   hut 
in<ti>|>cu»4lili'  whi-n  Itidy  was  annexed  to  the  French  Ke- 
puiilii;.      lie  Ivit  it  in  un  unlinished  («tate,  btit  it  hus  since 
thon  U-ni  c^mpk-u-d  by  sncocssiva  Oovernniitnls.     Until  j 
within   Uiu   lost    few  yixn    tliis   road    was  very   tinmfe 
■ftpr  heavy  rains,  owinf;^  to  the  abeenoa  of  bridj^es  over 
•uine   »f  tliv   torrent   nvers,   and    to   frcipicnt   landslips. 
AfU'r  Ibo  tropii'ii)  rams  to  which  the  Itivicrn  t*:  exposed  and 
whii-h  <l<nin-n<l  f  rum  the  nvountains  that  frione  itH  >>)i<>rvK,th«sie  j 
rirvrs  riiUimnicnno  masses  ofvratertotliest^a,  uud  thin  either 
U^rome  imiMssiible  for  a  time,  or  are  crossed  with  difHcnlty, 
and  uvirn  ilanK«r.     In  days  still  <)uilo  recent,  every  winter, 
varria^^  wvni  overturned   and   curried   towanls  tho   sea, 
and  aometimen  tmvellers  drttwnud,  but  such  attastroptuM) 
have     now    ceased    U>    olvui',    most   of  the    rivero    beinjf  J 
I'nwHvd  by  (rood  briiltjes. 

The  road  has  Ih-i.-ii  Lurried  in  many  places  over  and 
iii)r  hi(Fh  mountains  and  prccipituuK  etiirM.  When;  the 
bore  cKuta,  it  is  generally  a  mere  rocky,  ftUingly,  or 
sandy  letli;e  or  beaeli,  from  which  the  motintaius  rise  directly. 
lu  soma  points,  however,  wher«  nvers  mi^^h  tho  sea,  thvitf 


10 


THE  RIVI£RA   AND  UENTONB. 


■re  ■mall  plains  at  tl*a   foot  of  tli«    mouDtaiiu,  lu  at 
Altdoru. 

On  Invintr  Nice  Tor  Genoa,  the  road  nt  mice  begins  to 
iMcen<l  tlio  Turbin,  n  tliouldi-r  of  tlie  Am^l.  This  moun- 
tain in  iiWut  30()U  r<-vt  l>if;t>,  niui  is  vnc  of  tho  ^mn 
tliat  tun  directly  inlu  tlie  wva.  Tlvo  fuir  <:it}-  of  Nice  li« 
at  iU  ueft^ni  base,  llie  ascent  nccni^iiw  two  hoiiiVt 
t))«  roitd  iviidiin^  an  «levalion  of  iUli)  fet-t,  two  miles 
Iwroru  arnvio-;  nl  Ihv  villi^e  of  Tiirliia.  Tliv  <Ii>6c«nt 
urcnpii-K  nii  lionr  and  a  liiiir,  and  at  its  t<^^n)i tuition  is 
nitiiutfd  Mentiim-.  A>  thv  timvvlW  a^n-ndu  tl»e  Turbia 
fmm  Nice,  tje  obtains  a  vi.-ry  benntifnt  p;in'irumic  view 
ol  the  town,  and  of  the  inouwljin-<:in--Ied  plain  in 
whidt  it  ii«s.  Till-  vy«  rv^i*  with  interoNl  and  pkMQI* 
on  till-  t'tnincnoe  that  oinimnndx  Niif,  erowniil  in  rormcr 
davi  liy  the  old  furlrvks,  near  llii^  onlkt  to  the  viill^y  of 
the  Paillon  river  which  piLTOfti  the  ba«k}i:n>und  of  kit)ce 
motinlains  to  the  noTth-eai^l,  and  on  the  bcantiful  coast> 
line,  aa  far  as  the  distant  KutL-rel  ranov.  It  is  a  very 
lovely  vitw,  e*pvciiilly  in  tho  anrrnoon,  when  tho  am, 
|Nuwing  to  the  Ki<iith-\vn>t,  <;ii»t>  its  radianoo  over  the 
ccenc.  ImUW,  1  »h«idd  advi^'  travellers  Mcntone  bound, 
twit  presM'd  for  time,  or  over-hurdened  with  travelling 
"  impedimenta,"  to  abandon  the  railway  at  Nice,  and 
drive  to  Mcnlniie,  hiiio';  a  private  carriii;^  for  IIm?  pnrpci 
ll»-re  ia  not  a  more  1ii-iiiilt<Ml  drive  in  Europe,  and  by  rai 
it  r>  entirely  \i^H.  The  atiirt  fnini  Nice  alvould  W  ma< 
alHKil  twelve  o'lWk,  so  n^  to  have  tho  eotith-woiU'm  sun 
to  illumine  the  roiid  all  tlie  way.  First  impre>«ii'nt<  are  of 
i;reiit  iin)>orlancr,  and  the  drive  from  Nicr  to  Menluno  ja 
tu)  pic-turtivquc  that  it  Kliontd  idways  be  tukon  by  Itnltlt 
tMirikts,  and  esp^ciiiHy  by  futtiru  itojotirnert  at  Menione, 
pr>>vided  the  weather  be  fine.  ^^ 

'Itie  railway,  now  open  from  Nice  to  Mentone,  on  tl*^^ 
Iljdian  lroi>liiT,  miub  (acilitiitee  thie  stiinf;  oltlie  jmimey,      ' 
to  tliiwe  who  niiih    to  tnivi-l  nipidly,     Moiffivcr,  Fkirlin}; 
the  i<u-l   of  tli«    mountain*,    {uiicin);   ucimk*    lovely    bays, 
tbiotitfli  many  ftliort  tunncU,  it  ^ivw  f^limpnca  of  mii 
piclurc«i|ue  coaet  BoeiKTV.     Still,  the  traveller  who  ado|i 
it  bxwM    many    beiiutirnf  mountain  views,    of  a  diurarterl 


tin^ 
il  t«_ 

laikfl 


SlTtlATION. 


n 


U'tully  ilitrircnl  rram  what  u  Men  in  motintaio  redone  in 
till.'  tiorrh  tif  Eoroiio, 

Wben  the  vilUt^  of  Turljia  lini'  Ixxa  rciicliod,  i>n<1  Hie 
ij^urtit  beglriH,  a  [luuonimii  I'Vi-n  more  ^luriuua  iirusuiils 
ilselt  lo  tliu  eye.  Al  our  Teet  lios  Moiutco,  crownint;  » 
promonktry  lliitt  advHiK-cs  into  tliu  fifii  uii<l  liirme  u  MniiU 
port.  Ah  the  niii<l  dt-KL-i'mU,  wiixliii';  a\u»g  thv  mountuiii 
ffUlu,  a  lirown  aim-huTtil.  vill.ige  is  apGii^Koot-abruaa, 
clinKttii;  ti)  lh«  rouks.  Then  a  corner  ia  turn<?d,  «nd 
br-li'ili!  B  ma>;tiiKc«nt  mountain  BmphithcatTe  npjieiirf!,  that 
of  Munlunv.  The  hi;;hrr  moiinUiiiK,  rueuding  round  a 
Wauliriil  hay  ojieniii^  tu  11>u  (u>iilh-<-iixt,  form  tbis  amphi' 
theatre,  the  oeiilre  of  which  'u  uhout  two  miles  (rom  tlie 
scB-shoru. 

The  voiiKt  oullinc,  which  is  almtit  four  iniK«  in  cimuH,  id 
diviOeil  into  twu  uncijiml  i>*y*,  th<:  eiut  and  llie  w^l,  by  a 
hilly  apur  or  huttruut  {;rniliuilly  »lopin-c  IViiKt  one  of  the 
hi|;ner  moitnlaiiia  to  the  sea,  and  on  the  eide^  of  which 
L-hnil>  the  houseH  that  constitute  the  old  town  of  Menti>ne< 
The  •^luivv  Lei»<.-«D  the  t>eii  nnd  the  tnotintuins  roin)in<;  thei 
ani|ibittii-iitrt',  moiintains  U-tux^^n  -lUOU  and  VDOO  li-ct  hi^li, 
Ik  o(-i.-(ipiit)  iiy  a  ftii-K  i>\'  hilU  wliieh  ivnt  on  tlie  tl.itiliH  of 
the  higher  rauy;e.     Th'-y  nlope  gently  to  the  sliore,  and  are  i 
rent   liy   numerous   ravines  and    toricnlial   vullujii.     Thai 
higher  muunltiin*,  ofa  greyish-white  oolitic  limrsUme,  im] 
lly  prrcipiiouK  nnd  hurt-,  with  the  exct'pliun  of  «  lewr 
of  niuriiiniir   lirx.      jMi>-.l  ol    the  louir  lull-,  nliich 
nso  to  u  iM'iyhl  ol  IVom   Mil)  to   ITiOO  IVet,  arv  dtnst-ly 
eoveriHl    with    ulive-trcus,    and    preei^nt  at  a  diBliiiiM;  the 
M[irct  of  tree-covered,  roundiil  ridges,  (gently  dvecciifling 
to  tho  »ea. 

Till)  i-.nlire  twy  and  the  tonn  of  Mentonc,  with  tlie  huck- 
(pruund  of  swellinf^  olive-etiid  hitts,  uloHed  in  l>y  the  umphi- 
UNalre  of  inouutiiin§,  are  tlius  tburouffhiy  piutt^L-ted  Irum 
the  niiilh-wtf^l,  iioitli,  nnd  noitli-eaxt  uinds.  The  ptisilioa 
ol  ihf  town,  w'illi  relrnrnt'i'  to  llm  hajs,  will  he  he»t  uiider- 
ktuorl  hy  re'errin^  to  the  fronliHpicce,  whieli  in  taken  Ironi 
eome  projecting  rockit  at  the  euktevu  exticinity  of  the 
r.ifttarn  Uiy. 

To  thorotighly  undentand  and  appreciate  the  dittrtvt. 


13 


TOE  lilVJEUA   AND  MENTONE. 


and  itM  vingnliirly  prolcc-ted  chamoLer,  a  IxMit  shotilil  Iw 
t«kc»  and  tlm  jmnoriimii  viowcil  a  mil«  or  two  from  Uie 
shore.  The  extreme  bL-auty  of  thi^  rouxl  will  iim|>ly  repay 
tho  1roul>le,-  Tlina  seen,  nil  the  details  uri>  blended  into  on« 
hiirmonioiis  whole;  the  two  hayr  becomiiii;  on?,  and  tbu 
littU'  town  Fairci-ly  dividing  tlienn.  Tlie  (^tideur  of  tlifi 
semiuirviilur  ruiigo  of  moimtaiiw,  goiieniUy  Kt^eped  in 
gloiious  Huiishitie,  also  cornea  out  in  broud  outline.  These 
mountxiiiH  positively  a[>p«ir  to  ]>artly  encircle  the  Men- 
touiau  am  phi  til  (.'litre  in  their  arms,  lo  separate  it  mid  it« 
inliubiUuiU  fmn]  thit  world  at  tur<^e,  and  to  pri-»i.-nt  ttivm  to 
the  Ittue  Mvditeininvan  wave*,  and  to  the  wann  toutliera 
eunsliine. 

Behind  the  mnuiittiius  tvliicli  form  the  hncki^oiind  of 
the  Montonian  rid|;(.-s  nnd  valleys,  nru  i-till  lii^fUer  niotin- 
biinH  riNing  in  KiiCovKKive  r»n§^  to  mi  Hltitude  of  front 
6000  to  DUIIU  ft-el.  The  hi^fhcr  rangea  conxtitute  the  ntaia 
chain  of  the  Maritime  Alps.  They  extend  from  east  to 
norlli-we^t  far  inland,  until  they  mingle  with  the  h'^h 
Alps  d(  Savoy  and  Dauphiny.  Tlii;  pretenuo  ol  tliis  M-nmd 
und  hi^hiT  imiuntiiin  rungi-  jfrr-atly  iiii-ri'tiKi-s  th«  protection 
slFonled  to  the  ctiiut-line  hy  lh«  lower  (iin-,  and  jiartiy  i-x- 
plttinH  it«  fsceptionnl  immunity  from  th«  winter  cold  of 
continental  Ktirojie. 

Thus,  the  Kieiitono  amphitheatre,  lN.-in<>  only  open  to  th« 
south  Miuth-eaiil  and  wMith-wvKt,  the  mietral,  a*  a  north* 
wc«t  iviud,  is  not  at  all  fell,  and  but  tilijrhlly  an  u  d«fl«cted 
eouth-we^t  wind.  All  the  northerly  winda  pass  over  the 
l>i>;lii.<r  mountains  und  fidl  into  the  sea  at  some  disCanoe — 
Keveral  tniks  fmm  thit  shoro.  Wlicn  they  n-i;:n,  there  is  a 
culm  not  only  iu  the  buy  at  Mcntone,  hut  lor  Home  diHtanee 
from  tbu  »hvre;  whilst  at  a  few  miles  diatunoe  the  sea 
may  be  crested,  while  and  furious.  This  is  uonstnntly  ob- 
served oa  asi-etidin-f  hi^li  |*routid.  Owin^  to  tiie  M«ttitu- 
nijiil  buy  opi-nin);;  lo  the  south-t-ast,  the  imutli-iMHt  (tJie 
leirvcw),  the  direct  »outh  and  the  ffjiilh-we»l  winds,  blow 
dirwtly  inlo  the  bay,  and  when  9>ti>ong  ciceoj^iun  a  heavy, 
ruUiu);  swell.  These  southerly  wiutU,  to  wiiich  alone 
Meutone  is  dii«clty  exposed,  are  never  cold.  When,  tiow- 
Qvvr,   hurricBnes   rvi^i   in   tontini-ntid    Kuropo    fiom    tl 


CLWATE  AND  TBOBTATIOK.  13 

north-west  or  nortli-ewt,  the  wind  Mmetimes  tnriM  roand 
tbe  protecting  nonntMns  weat  icd  eut,  and  ii  reallf  felt  on 
the  shore  line,  much  to  the  sDrprise  of  those  who  hare  been 
told  that  north  winds  cannot  by  any  ponibilitjr  retch  this 
Avonred  r^^n, 

Clikatb  as  showk  bt  VconjiTioN. 

Oiring  to  the  eomplete  protection  the  monntains  afford 
to  Mentotie  from  the  west,  north-west,  north,  and  north- 
eaat  winds,  owing  to  its  southern  exposure,  and  to  the  re- 
flection of  the  son's  nya  from  the  sides  of  the  naked 
limestone  monntains  which  form  the  amphitheatrei  its 
winter  climate  is  warmer  than  that  of  Ktce,  its  neighbsnr ; 
indeed,  it  is  wanner  than  that  of  any  part  of  the  northern 
or  central  regions  of  Italy.  That  such  is  the  ease  is  shown 
by  the  vegetation.  The  latitude  of  Palermo,  five  d^rees 
further  south,  mast  be  reached,  to  find  the  same  vegetation 
as  at  Mentonc — groves  of  lemon-trees  growiog  in  the  open 
air,  like  apple-treea  in  an  Engli^th  orchard.  Even  at 
Palermo,  which  looks, to  the  north,  the  lemon  orchards  are 
protected  by  walls,  or  the  trees  are  planted  in  ravines,  as  I 
have  found  to  l>e  the  cose  in  the  warmest  regions  of  the 
Mediterranean,  wherever  the  lemon  grows  and  thrives. 

The  peculiar  mildness  of  the  winter  may  also  be  partly 
at-counted  for  on  geothermal  {earth  heat)  grounds.  It  is 
well  known  that  even  in  England  the  warmth  imparted  to 
the  surface  of  the  ground  by  summer  heat  is  not  exhaosted 
by  radiation  until  the  winter  be  far  advanced.  Thus,  at 
three  feet  from  the  surface  it  is  only  at  the  end  of  January 
thnt  the  soil  has  cooled  to  its  lowest  point;  that  is,  bos 
exhausted  by  radiation  the  heat  accumulated  during 
summer.  How  much  jfreater  must  be  the  winter  radiation 
of  summer- accumulated  heat  in  a  locality  like  Mentone, 
surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  limestone  rocks,  which 
become  heated  to  an  extreme  extent  during  the  long 
summer  days,  under  the  rays  of  an  al!  but  tropical  buq, 
and  in  a  cloudless  sky  !  The  importance  of  this  element, 
in  the  consideralion  of  climate,  will  be  better  appreciated 
when  we'  know  that  it  takes  several  months  for  a  thermo- 
meter to  cool  down  after  the  glau  tube  has  been  closed  by 


u 


TH8   KIVIRHA    AND   MKSTVJSK. 


monn'ntnry  exiKisurc  lo  the  Dame  or  Uie  blowpipe.*  Il  i 
only  nlt^r  tliat  lapse  of  iim<!  thiit  the  glitM  liii^  n-(;ninc(l  n 
normal  statu,  iiiiil  that  it  cuii  be  ^(diintvct,  wIh'Ii  HciiMiiitie 
nrc-trinioii  U  in  view.  So  ri>t«utive  uf  hrat  ni-e  nidHt  suliil 
iKHlii'^,  ai)(l  HO  ]ong  A  period  of  time  doea  it  talcc  Tor  them  ' 
loa-i  \ty  radiation  ht.-iit  oncu  ii<.v]iiii'C(l. 

Thccxcfptioiiiil  wttrrnlli  of  ilu-  winter  climnV  of  Mei*^ 
t»ti(!,  uvuii  f»r  ih<^  Itiviurit,  ia  proVL-d,  in-yoiid  ull  ([ill's  I  ion  or 
diiiibt,  1>v  tho  pre^trtico  of  jcrovee  of  lar;*o,  htraltliv  Lcmnii- 
tre^B,  which  ripen  Uieir  IVuit  i-vci-y  yi-.ir  in  the  (iill^wl 
pfrreclidii,  ill  nvnily  "II  Iho  ruvincw  mid  on  the  wiirtnvr 
hill-«idii',  wlii'tx-vi-r  water  enu  be  obtained.  Constimt 
trrigiitioii,  friiniiiier  snd  winter,  is  neceesarj^  for  their  tulti- 
vation,  BM  well  a»  -^reiit  eumtncr  lieAt  and  n  mild  winter 
temperature.  Tin-  Ijcnion-trei-si  are,  indeed,  muoh  inor* 
numerous  thun  the  Urunge.treea,  althoui;h  many  fine 
plantations  of  the  latter  are  fmiiid  throii^liuut  the  district. 
The  presence,  however,  of  Oranjfu  and  Lemon-trwM  *p^w- 
iiiR  in  healthy  luxuiianee,  as  Ibrest  tree§,  in  tlio  open  air, 
doen  not  prove  that  wc  Iihvo  rmclicd  a  tropical  vliiiiatc, 
where  ocild  iii  unknown.  When  the  wemher  in  dry,  and  tJie 
sky  is  covered  with  clondg,  whieh  iinvHi.  terr^trial  mJia- 
tion,  the  fruit  of  the  Oraii^>-lr«o  will  bear  7°  Fah,  belnw 
the  freezing;  point,  without  injury,  and  Oranpu-truwt  tlicm> 
selvt-x  KTv  ojily  killed  by  i  I  di-^reeH  of  front.  Th<i  Ijcrnoti 
Iruit,  uniler  similar  circumBlanevs,  c»xi  only  bear  !>*  withuut 
injiinr,  and  the  trcea  are  killed  by  8°  or  9".  Bnt  if  the  rold 
wcatlier  Ei-ts  in  alter  a  thaw,  or  alter  ruin,  if  the  BtiQO«pl>vra 
is  loaded  with  moiiftiiiv,  or  if  tbv  fky  is  cbuidlcw,  and  the 
rucliation  fnim  the  curlh  is  thuH  rapid  iit  ni^ht,  eilher  the 
fruit  or  the  ti-ecs  may  perish  at  a  niueh  lLi;ilii=r  teiiipcmttire. 
The  iidiahitaniK  uf  KoutliL-rn  di^triets  eeem  to  think  thut  a 
li»it  amount  of  Iroct  U  futiil  1»  Leinon  anil  OrBn;»«-trec»; 
but  my  own  fxperieni-e  dnrin^  many  winters  corroborattM 
the  above  dat;i,  l^ikeu  frum  lUiubaudi's  work  ou  Nic 
very  ncicntilic  boi.k. 

Oil  tuie  iii'lir  iif  the  wisleni  liiy,  near  the  IVnt  St.  Ijoui»7 
the  waniteitt  and  moot  iiheUitrcd  region  of  Mentonu,  tliv 


•  DnVa  Practical  Hetmrology.  p.  H. 


CUMATE    AND    VEQETATION. 


15 


side  ofth')  moiintBin  is  partially  covered  with  Lenioti-trciM, 
nliicll  iwirPtMl  oil  tfmici's  to  u  conKidcnil'lu  lieiglit  nbove  tItaJ 
Mna.    1*)ii'y  are  in  lluwt^r,  iiiul  |tprfiiniv  iIk*  air  ut  ull  tcasoat. 
In  titrso  "  warm   terraces,"  pr>t«cted   from  ■!)  wimli  but 
thii  Mouth,  vx|)i><c(l  to  Uiu  sun   from  m'Wninff  to  ai;$lit, 
winti.-r  iiuiy  Iw  witl  out  to  oxivl.     T)iroii;;hoiit  iu  viitii-e 
duralinn  iti»cct  life  is  utmiiilHiil.     The  lively  Mziti^  lU'wr 
hylwrnat««,  biit  daily  bask^  imd  epi>rt«  iu  the  min,  and  tlie 
brilliant   drrt'^'in  Ity   may  l>u  sL-i>n  ilsrtin-;  Hboiit  in  mid- . 
wlntvr.     Tli<!  >|)id<:r  i>)>iiiii  liiit  W4'b,  finding  ■bunitnnl  fo-xl, ' 
iiinl    lh«  swallows  or  nitlier  Hie    inartiru  iiovcr  irii^i-ate; 
liwy  u<e  cDtMUntly  swii  iiirelm:;  aiuon;;  the  rock^.     The 
HaroLcll,  Ilia  n.'d  Viilrrliiii,  Vitilcts,  and  oiir  own  pritly 
Vi-ronicii,  flower  in  Owumlicr  and  January  in  thtu  fuvoitrail 
ipftt  luiii;  Wfore  titoy  ii|>|>oar  elitewhero. 

Tim  tcnxms  prodiuwd  nt  Moulonc  iire  known  throuj>hout 
Mortbirrii  Kiini|w  and  Amnrira,  im<l  ft't4:h  ii  hi|;h  priix-. 
The  Li'mnn-triv  Unworn  lioru  hII  tin-  yc;ir  tliniii^jh,  nvver 
n»liii(j — II  fjit  ivUicU  im|)tini  vniLitant  mid  n^jlivc  vcgctn- 
tinn,  williiiut  any  period  of  rvpcwe.  Thu  crop  id  f^pithered 
at  four  dilft-Tcnt  cjmchs,  the  treea  bearing  at  the  uime  time 
llowcra  and  fniit*  iil'  all  sizm.  The  existcnoe  of  liir[^ 
Li-i»i>n-1r>N)ii  in  graru*,  fnini  twi^nty  \a  thirty,  or  morv, 
vi'ant  iiK),  williuiit  artitlriiil  pMtvction,  and  tht-ir  prDriliihlu 
riilliviilitiii  tlirrmyhoiit  the  yenr,  prove  that  witere  they 
(•row  Liki-ro  iiuiHt  hiivc  liLi'n  frci-dom  from  severe  frost  lor 
many  van',  t  wax  inli-rmi-d,  howovcr,  lliut  about  Ihirty 
ycur*  ii^o  nuarty  idl  the  Li-mon-tn.fa  in  tlie  country  were 
(l<a>t rt>yr<l  in  one  night,  wbidi  may  aocuunl  for  no  very  old 
tnw  )wtni;  seen. 

Ditriiit;  tlic  liftm'n  winton  that  T  Iinvo  paewd  nt  Montonc 

have  found  ii  |;fvitt  dilffrvncoin  tho  d<-gr<-ein)d  tl it- >>» verity 
al  thii  w>ld  from  year  l«  year.  In  tint  more  buvi-tc  wintiTs, 
with  a  nortliei'ly  »iiid,  I  haw  n.>|>L-at«illy  known  the  llicr- 
momcUT  lo  drM^i-nd  kloW  xi.*ru Kcver<il  ni;;htF  conMUiitivt-ly, 
nciir  the  »ru-*hi>re,  and  ut  ihu  onlh-t  of  the  torrent  bealti, 
«)ieriBlly  in  tlio  western  buy.  Sli:rht  HIms  of  ire  then  fiinn 
iiuehMllow  |Miiititon(hu  iNml  mid  iiuurlhe  torrents, i.>pi.-<:iully 

,  llie  «i^)«'ni  Imy,  whicih  in  more  i'xp(i»<'d  to  iloivn-dnmgbit" 
tbv  ni»nntHin*i  and  the  higher  muuntnin  rangi>  may 


u 


THE    RIVIERA    AND  MBNTONE. 


Iw  cove  red  with  simw  to  the  level  of  the  olive  givivet.  T\w 
iiiitowurit  Hlato  of  tiling  i^nerally  oceaBioiis  ;fTvat  dismay 
in  the  niiiida  of  the  inlialiitnnU,  whoM  princtiM)  riL-liue  an 
the  lemon  Rrovcfi.  1  liavo  known  mnny  Mt  up  Ibr  ncvonil 
DlglitH,  in  tlie  ^viiU'kl  <'[in!ili>niiitiiin,  vtnU.'liin|f  the  tlicr- 
mometi-r.  Iniki'd,  t)ii-re  iei  in  ihcxe  (n»m  quile  a  paoic  with 
reference  to  the  lamentable  condition  of  the  weather.  Such 
fcelini^  and  fears  plainly  indioutc  that  frost  and  »now  nro 
uiiuvuaI  und  unwelcome  vinitorw.  Snow  olWn,  however,  lies 
for  t>i!V(-ral  diiy*  on  the  higher  nioiinlaiits,  iliereby  giviilg 
tliem  a  niiiHt  {>ii'tiire?que,  Swi»s>!ike  appearand. 

On  vtry  e.vwptionnl  occat'ion^  biiow  may  «v*ii  fall  on  the 
aI>ore  levtt,  incUinfi  w  it  full*.  In  Januiirj-,  KSOV,  thora 
wna  R  front  of  unuHual  iiit«iisity  thmu^hout  the  south  of 
Europe,  in  Italy  and  Spain  especially.  At  Mcntone  it  froze 
on  tho  eca-level  ecvenil  nights  consecutively,  both  in  the 
awt<>rii  un<l  vrt-ctcrn  huy«,  and  nnow  fvll  on  thu  shorc-li^vrl. 
For  several  days  it  lay  in  northern  and  ehaded  eitnalioiw, 
althou;;h  a  hn^it  sun  was  shining.  Many  IjenioD  treea 
were  killed,  and  much  fntit  dentroycd  ;  but  the  trees  tJiat 
were  killed  were  all  at  the  outlet  of  vnlteyc  inniiin;;  np  to 
tic  mountKinv,  when-  they  bad  been  planted,  I  vm  told,  in 
opposition  to  previouR  experience,  tvery  twenty  or  tliirty 
years  an  exceptionally  intenee  froft  ocatra,  and  kilU  the 
lieraon  1ree»  in  all  but  really  warm  and  sbeltcreil  positions. 
The  eiiltiiii!  of  the  Icnion  hcin'>:  veiy  remuni-ralive,  the 
aj^iculturiHt  i*  npt  to  deopise  thc^e  warnin^H,  and  to 
endeavour  to  extend  lis  rant^e.  All  ^oos  well  lor  a  lime, 
and  then  tlie  exceptional  frost  year  oeeun',  dcKtruya  the 
trce»  imprudently  planted,  and  miirk»  Uie  limit  ol  catt" 
ration . 

It  if  tho  KiniB  in  Enifland.  Kvery  now  and  then  a  vet 
wrorc  winter  nccuro,  and  kills  many  of  tho  shrnlis  and  tre«(" 
iinported  from  all  paitu  of  the  world,  und  apparently  well 
eslahliHlied  in  our  country.  It  ri-t|nire«  hall  a  century  to 
prove  the  tbuToufj^h  adaplnbility  of  a  foreign  fihrub  or  tree 
>•>  a  new  climate.  With  us  xiieh  trees  as  the  Oak,  the  KItn, 
the  l]awthorn,  the  Chestnut,  arc  either  native  or  really 
acclimatized  trt'ca.  They  do  not  »o  readily  admit  of  an 
addition  to  their  number  as  mi{j;ht  at  lirst  be  imoj^ined. 


CLIMATE  AND  VEGETATION. 


17 


TtiUM  tho  »ovcri>  vrinter  of  I8C0-1  \vilnc!<se<l  the  destruc- 
tioii  gf  niBDV  upjMjreuily  established  favoiiriUs. 

Oh  IK)  other  ]>nrt  of  Uie  Cornico  tdiuI  do  LenvoD-1ret« 
prow  us  fiwlv  :m  iH  Mi-iiUmc,  At  Canno*  lUcv  ore  all  but 
anliniTtl  of,  ntiil  ni  Nioe  Uiev  oniy  grow  in  ebellcred  und 
nrolvutcd  sit«a,  and  Dot  Itmuniintly.  As  I  have  stated,  th« 
latitude  or  ISiuty,  five  dc^rrCH  fiirthcT  R>iith,  must  be  rmchi'd 
to  lind  tlHini  growiii<*  with  erjiml  luxuriuiiiio,  iiiii)  wen  there 
th«y  »ro  iretnTHlly  inxitecti-d  by  walls,  and  refuse  to  prow 
wUrrever  tliere  is  a  dowa-4lraught  from  Deijjbbourintf 
tiiountains. 

l^ie  Oniiict>-tr«o  f\ovrtr»  1>ut  once  in  ihu  yojtr,  nnd  Ittan 
ooa  crop  "^  ^'^i^  only.  It  is  a  more  iiwnly  tree,  m  tliin 
liotiiiical  fact  implies,  and  can  bear  without  injury,  aa  we 
have  mwn.  sevenil  dcj^rfeH  of  ffist.  Still,  as  the  fruit 
RUituDi'  in  aiitiinin  and  uiiitcT,  il  docK  not  attain  oxccllfnoc 
in  rcfjiom  whom  the  winter  is  cold.  There  are  niftny  line 
proves  uf  Oran^e-tnvs  at  M>?titon«,  eejHcially  the  on«  at 
the  base  of  tho  Ca[i  Miirlin.  Tliey  ate,  however,  always  in 
sitiiatioiiK  slK-lt«red  from  wind,  whidi  they,  sppnrantty, 
uitmot  h«tir  n«  well  ax  Lcmon-treex.  Although  tlic  Irn* 
arv  large,  und  the  fniit  ripens  well,  the  oraou«8  are  scarcely 
equal  to  these  we  get  from  the  Azorct:,  from  the  Balearic 
lelce,  or  from  Mulu.  Thi*  defieiency,  however,  uppciii-f  to 
br  owin'T  more  to  th«  seledion  of  interior  vari«tiut>  than  to 
defective  i-limulo.  Some  trees  in  private  gardens,  and  others 
umwinu  near  Monaco,  only  a  few  milc«  dist:mt,  and  in  a 
locality  prvMoting  the  name  climate  condition,  are  aa  ^ooiL 
an  any  in  Europe  if  allowed  to  remain  on  tlic  tree  until 
r«a)iy  rt]M>. 

I'o  lirin;;  oat.  the  real  sweetnent  of  the  orange  it  shnnhl 
be  iillowed  to  n-muiii  on  the  tre.r  all  ■nmmer.  It  i»  insipid 
during  th<i  hot  months,  but  after  iheuutiitun  ruins  fillii  uith 
bikciou-i  juic«.  This  is  seldom  or  never  donct  liowcver, 
where  oranges  are  eidtivak-d  for  (irotit. 

Thurt'  are  many  varietivw  of  the  Oran|>;e,  Mmc  of  which 
Are  much  sweotf-r  and  ritien  earlier  than  othera,  as,  lot 
instance,  the  Maltese  and  Majorca  or»ni;e,  but  then  they 
an-   mu«llv  thin-»kinni-d,  und  do 


keep 


thiuk-iikiiincd  or   rortu-jul  variety.     Ttiu  latter  are,  tbeic- 


18  THK  RIVIKKA  AND   HKNTUNE. 

fore,  prefcrr<td  gs  th«  Ixwt  for  cxportdlioit.  Ornn;*o«  il 
tondeii  for  expnrtnlion  nre  (fatht-rwl  in  JiMiuaiy  uinl  Foil 
nary,  beroru  tiiey  am  ripe,  as  otli<!rwi!>i>  tbi-y  ^could  not 
bear  the  patkiii^  and  traimport.  They  do  nol  really  become 
ripe  and  swoet  on  the  troo  before  April,  or  even  Afay—Iong 
ulti-r  lhi;y  rctldcli.  Those  ex pomil  for  nile  at  Mi-iilon*  «Pe 
a  tMirt  of  the  oranges  pielted  under  tht^e  coDdilions.  The 
only  way,  therefore,  to  have  really  good  oranges  i«  to  pur- 
uliAsc  tliv  crop  of  one  or  more  tree«,  to  leave  the  omnt^'s  on 
the  Irw-  until  tiiey  iire  quite  sweet  and  ripe,  whieh  ia  not 
uutil  April,  or  even  May,  an<l  to  pick  then)  as  wanted. 

The  erop  of  un  ora'ia:e  ;;rcive  or  orchard  is  fjenerally  nold 
on  tliu  tree,  to  fpceuUtors  from  TariE,  fora  given  num.  The 
latter  iimlurtabn  tim  picking  and  packing,  iiiid  iu  January 
and  February  tlie  town  and  eouiitry  are  quite  alive  with 
thoir  operations.  Troops  of  triik  and  women  may  be  hmii 
duily  coming  down  from  the  mountains  with  large  luiakets 
of  omng4»  or  lemons  poised  on  their  hi-itdx.  The}'  «;arry  m 
miieh  IIS  a  hundred- weight,  or  more,  nt  a  time,  with  :ip|iarent 
ease.  They  are  [{enernlly  barefooted,  to  enable  them  to  j^tet 
a  better  |ira«p  of  the  rocky  paths, aud  look  very  pieturcMiue. 
Only  tlie  slrongant  and  heallhiefil  girl*  can  imdcrtalcu  thia 
work,  and  that  hut  lor  a  few  ycurx.  They  go  to  anil  from 
the  mountains,  a  distance  of  from  two  to  four  miles,  eeveral 
linie«  a  day,  and  rain  about  fifteen  pence. 

Throughout  the  winter  llie  orange  grove*,  eorcrwl  with 
tbeir  golden  fruit,  form  a  ehaiming  feature  in  the  landscape, 
rcmiodiog  the  looker-on  of  the  garden  of  the  livsperidea  of 
olilen  time*.  From  the  regularity  of  its  giowlh,  the  abuii- 
duueeand  golden  hoc  ofitti  fruit,  the  orange-tree  ia  ■  innch 
moru  piotuieaqne  ohjent  than  the  lemon-tree.  The  fruil  of 
the  latter  is  always  either  green  or  a  pale  yellow,  and  the 
Itabit  of  the  tn-*-,  ynung  or  old,  ii  r;ither  straggling.  Both 
lemon  and  orange-tn^ex,  wlicncver  tliey  emerge  IVuni  the 
va3leyB,  on  the  hill-side,  contrnat  vividly,  by  tlieir  bright 
green  tinge,  with  the  sombre  hue  of  the  olivotreet*. 

The  Olive-tree  i«  the  real  lord  of  >the  Mentonian  amphi- 
theatre, coTerina  the  lower  hills  and  the  \vtat  of  the  high* 
ones  to  a  height  of  about  two  lliuusand   feci  ab 
level  of  th«  sea.     lu  the  south  of  France  the  olive>t 


he  higbt^^ 
iliovti  tk^H 
>live>trs^H 


CLIMATE  AMD  VHnCfATtON. 


10 


however  Tortile,  U  a  mtiuTiible  object.  It  is  i^nerally 
ln-:iU-il  Mf  II  piilUivl,  is  einall  uml  ilwarlUh,  and  l<x)ks  mucb 
liL)-  a  iiiiitil:iti.-il  iliiiil-covcT<.-ii  willow.  A*  m>»ii,  liotvcver,  lis  ' 
the  Kstere)  mouiit-iini  an  yiof^tiiX,  uml  ('utinea  in  reaoheil, 
we  eot«r  on  a  ditTi-reiit  cliiuatv,  iiiiire  iiroteutwl  in  wiuter, 
mil]  mora  tuitv^l  to  lis  growth.  It  is  ulliwoil  to  grot*  m  a  | 
Torait  tree,  and  ut  oncv  &s<^iitnea  a  di^nily  and  grnndeiir 
which  (jnite  &urpri»M  thoM  who  have  only  seen  the  stunted 


Sf    3lMfe 


TIIK  UutON  mil;. 

spccinHMi*  nf  "la  IwIIi;  Provwnoo."  Tlio  Olive-tree  i«  .inly 
d««trayed  by  n  frost  of  tlllfoii  or  nxlei-n  decrees  Fall.,  n> 
that  it  ie  not  iiijiin-)!  or  killed  un  the  Kiviorii  by  uxcwptional 
widlvrM,  UH  »rc  ibe  di-licuto  LL-niuii- Ireex.  Hiit  tliv  )'<Hin<;  ' 
ahiMla  and  the  I'ruit  arv  fro/.on  and  irreutediably  injured 
when  the  Miermuinetcr  {«\U  >ix  ur  ituvun  dc^rue-t  Mow  tli<- 
frcrxintc  (Miint.  No  flruot,  however,  to  which  this  ri'<;ioM  U 
expoiKtl,  i-vcn  once  in  a  ountury,  can  injuixt  the  trci;,  ki  thai 
il  goe«  on  {jroiting  ifltlclinilely,  and  uttatiu   its   natural 

Ci 


20 


THK  BIVIEHA    ASD   MEXTOXR 


period  of  1an^vit}r,  nf  do  with  tm  tin-  trcL's  that  ure  natii 
of  «ur  couiitrv,  the  Birdi,  tl'e  Beecit,  the  Scotch  Fir,  and 
the  0»\(.     Like  them,  it  rceiste  the  tcrrihie  cold  of  cxoepj 
tioDa!  yearn,  sucli  as  the  yeani  ISCfl-fil,  and  r«ip|>cnn'  i»_ 
■prill)?;,  ha1u>  nnil  vij^roiiu,  whoi)  nliole  unnin  of  a|)pareDt)y 
iiatunih'^ed  fonHgiicR  hove  suociiiiit'ed. 

The  lon-j;evity  of  the  Olive-tree,  in  n  con-ieniiil  eltmnt 
like  thnt  of  Menlone,  mny  indeed  he  Htd  tn  l)«:  iiideUiiit 
There  lire  Oli^-e-trecK  «lill  alive  al  Monaco,  nt  th« 
IMsrtin,  am!  elsCTvhere,  which  are  Bupposed  to  he  oocTflF 
with  the  Koinan  empire.  It  is  a  slon-.^irowiii^  tree,  and 
forimt  ctttllmiils  of  hard  rofitc,  whieh  till  and  cover  tt 
ground  nhi-ri'  it  Ktniidi^  When,  alter  Hevoral  hiiiidre 
years,  the  tnink  decay*,  the  bark  remains  alive.  As  tt 
decay  pro]B>res»eB,  the  tree  splits,  lu  it  were,  int«»  tw<i,  Ihr 
or  more  Bcctioiif!.  Tlie  bark  twtblfl  and  curl*  roiiitd  ona 
of  thenc  dcenyed  wection^,  and  nnites  <>n  the  other  Bidj 
Then,  inftead  of  the  old  tree,  we  have,  in  iU  plac«, 
three,  or  more,  appaiently  separate,  altliou^li  in  reality  at 
growing  from  the  same  root,  When  these  in  tiii-n  die^^ 
new  chootn  uprin;;  up  from  the  "hi  rooti',  and  thim  tlij 
life  of  the  tree  in  iiidofiiiitelv  priilonyyd.  The  old  Oli* 
grove.H  are,  from  this  cause,  indescrihnhly  sin^-ular  and  il 
ttrcsting,  prceenlin^;  on  every  *ide  evidence*  of  hoaij  o\i 
age.  All  the  ntnjje*  of  (•rowth  above  de»erihed  may  be 
witneewd  vrithin  the  sjiaee  of  u  few  vards;  and  ihe  |muv 
tinlly  decayed,  pnrtinlly  split,  (rnarlod,  twisted,  cnrved^ 
tntiilcr  are  [>ieliirt-«[ne  in  llie  t-xtreme.  ~ 

The  healthy  fnll-fp^jwn  Olive-tree  is  really  very  heaatif 

It  is  often  as  lar^^e  as  a  tine  old  oak,  but  with  fewer 
limlw  and  a  more  spane  foliage.  In  the  variety  of  tl 
Olive-tree  gcncrallv  cultivated  nn  the  Rivicm  the  tertnifl 
extremity  of  the  hrauchpK  han^  down,  so  a*  t<>  give 
the  eh  a  rad  eristic  appearance  of  a  weeping  ash  or  willot 
The  "  wci'pin-i"  character  of  the  tree  is,  honever,  miicir 
luKK  niaiked  than  in  those  jii^t  mentioned,  owini;  t<>  the 
more  scanty  folia^,  and  to  the  extremities  of  llie  Hmnller 
hivnches  only  droopinj-.  To  some  who  are  md,  to  mouniera, 
tlie  dcn«e  masses  of  these  iiombre  erey-colonrvd  trecA,  with 
banging  foltiige,  giw  m  vorrowfuT,  moumfnl  character 


CLIMATE  AND  VEGETATION.  21 

the  landscape.  But  it  is  only  those  who  have  sadoess 
in  their  hearts,  a  eadness  which  reflects  on  nature,  who 
view  the  Olive-tree  ia  this  light.  To  others,  the  play  of 
the  wind  on  the  ever-moving  pendulous  masses  of  foliage, 
and  that  of  the  suu  and  light  ou  the  dark  green  leaves, 
especially  when  seeo  in  massds  from  a  heigbt  above,  is 
both  beautiful  and  soothing. 

I  never  fully  appreciated  the  beauty  of  the  Olive-tree, 
nlthough  I  had  seen  it  in  its  glory  in  southern  Italy,  until 
I  had  passed  a  winter  under  the  shadow  of  an  Olivti-clad 
mountain  at  Mentone.  The  fact  is  that  the  Olive-tree, 
like  our  own  evergreen  Spruce  and  Scotch  Fir,  is  much 
more  lieautiful  in  autumn  and  winter  than  in  summer. 
At  the  latter  period  of  the  year  most  of  the  leaves  are  old, 
and  have  become  browned  by  the  summer  heat  and  by 
at  least  a  year's  existence,  so  that  the  entire  tree  often 
assumes  a  faded,  dingy  hue.  In  early  summer,  too,  the 
yellow  hue  of  the  pollen  of  the  male  flowers  of  Conifers 
gives  a  yuUowish  tingt  to  the  entire  tree,  owing  to  their 
extreme  abundance.  In  spring  the  new  leaves  of  tlic  ever- 
green tree  form,  in  summer  aud  autumn  the  old  ones  are  in 
a  great  measure  cast  oH',  and  when  winter  comes,  it  is  in 
all  its  glory.  It  liaa  thrown  off  its  worn-out  damaged 
giirments,  and  is  again  clothed  iu  the  grace  and  beuuty  of 
early  youlii. 

Thus,  instead  of  the  brown,  dust-coloured  foliage  which 
the  pk'usure  traveller  sees  in  his  autumn  journey,  the 
winter  invalid  sees  leaves,  sombre  it  is  true,  but  fresh  and 
beautiful  to  look  .it,  either  from  near  or  from  alar.  Tiie 
jicantiness  of  the  Olive-tree  foliage  iu  winter,  also,  is  an 
advantage.  It  lets  the  sun  liltcr  pleasantly  through, 
breaking  its  power  without  concealing  it,  and  rendering  a 
walk  or  a  lounge  in  "the  Olivc-grovcs,"  even  in  the 
hot  midday  sun,  most  enjoyable.  Many  and  many  an 
afternoon  have  I  spent  at  Mentone,  in  December  and 
January,  sitting  with  a  book  under  the  sliade  of  an  old 
Olive-tree. 

The  predominance  of  these  Olive-growers  gives  u  very 
peculiar  character  to  the  Mentunian  amphitheatre  and  to 
the  Kiviera  in  general — a  Scriptural  character,  if  I  may  so 


22 


TUE  RIVIEItA   AND  HKKTONE. 


term  it.  Ilic  Olive-trc^,  which  is  a  nntivc  of  Aria  Minor, 
or  of  Palntiiie,  is  rli«  tiTc  of  thr  Ilolj-  I^m),  am)  is  con. 
Htaiitly  ineiilionec)  in  Scripture.  Thus  its  prvseiiw,  ns  the 
pnDci]>a]  feature  of  the  BUrroundin);  ve^tation,  impnrt^  iin 
KuKti'rii  cliomi  1o  tlic  ptncc,  taking;  the  iniiiil  1u  the  Mount 
i^f  OlivoM,  to  Joriinii]<-in,  iiii'd  to  the  «wr<^  Hci'iii-a  of  Holy 
Writ.  We  foel  tliat  it  wus  in  Biich  a  Iniid  tlist  the  events 
no  hnve  read  of  from  our  cbtldhnod  upwania  nith  revcr«»cc 
nnd  iiiterM.  look  pl«ce.  We  feci  thiit  we  nro  nearer  to 
these  itoencit  than  in  onr  ovm  nortliern  iiJand,  and  we  really 
Hiiderfitand  what  it  la  "to  tiit  under  the  Fig-tre«,"  and  to 
widic  "in  the  Olive-jriove." 

Tlie  firHnchi'B  of  tin-  OHve-troo  are  not  nnmcroa*.     They 
apritig  from  the  tnink,  lu'or  the  groiiml ;   or  rather,  the 
trunk  (jenerally  dividi^  inln  two  or  three  brnnohes.     The 
Utter  extend,  nt  an  acute  angle,  a  lonj;  difllance  froRi  the 
iree.     Their  folia^^e  bi'irig   I^Tininal,  and    the  wood  non- 
elastic,  tliey  ore  not  iidapti-d  to  hear  a  heavy  burden,  for  t' 
nets  as  a  u-ei(r|it  at  tlie  extremity  of  a  long  lever.     Thua^l 
wlien  enow  tell  tliicUty  in  the  rigorous  ninter  of  1^4—5, 
wit  liout  Ricltiiii* — an  tinheard  of  event — large  olive  brunch 
broke  iiir  by  huudrcils,  and  great  loi*  wn*  thereby  entailed 
on  the  coiintrv. 

In  northern  regions  the  Knes,  the  l-'^rs,  indeed  Conifvra 
in  gene  I'D  I  r  hnve  their  branches  arranged  in  fiuee<eeeive 
statues,  or  whorl*^  which  extend  only  a  short  dit^tanw  from 
ttio  trunk  of  the  tree.  Tliesc  branohea,  also,  oither  dro<^ 
downnanU  by  natural  eoDlbmintion,  so  as  to  throw  off  the 
snow  which  fnlU  on  them,  or  bend  downwards,  so  aa  (o 
shake  it  ofT.  The  nt-in  whieh  fills  ihc  wood  of  tb«  tne 
(•ivea  the  neeewary  elasticity,  nnd  enables  it  thus  to  bend 
and  throw  off  the  enow,  wheu  the  poor  Olive-tree  reeiata  the 
unnalural  lond  and  breaks.  ^J 

The  Olivc-lfve  flower*  in  April,  and  beans  every  y«ar.^| 
But  a  year  of  abuminnce  is  generally  foll»w«l  by  one,  or  " 
even  two,  of  comparative  MerlHty.  It  has  to  W  well 
manured  every  neomd  or  third  year,  in  order  to  seeur«  ita 
rniitfulnees,  For  thin  pur^ioite  ihc  liivourite  inannre  is  old 
woollen  and  linen  raj^,  which  are  imported  from  Ituly  in 
boat*loiid*;  and  such  rags!  I  verily  believe  tiiat  eveu  our 


CLIMATE  ANB  VtWiETATION. 


23 


poper  manufacturers  would  Morn  tb«nt.  A  trench  if  <Ia^ 
rouDil  thti  trunic  of  iho  Iroe,  at  M>ine  little  clislanctf— aliaut 
two  ki:l  lUir.p,  and  thrvu  tu^Tt  wido.  In  this  tmnch  tltc 
nig«  arc  plm-eil ;  tltcf  an  then  Konlced  with  )ii)iii<)  munun*, 
and  «>vcn.>d  ii|>  with  the  ettrtlt — a  jimcesa  whivb  no  duuht 
(Ictroy^  a  vimt  arnnnnt  of  lilb.  Althott^h  done  hy  mere 
nHitinf,  Ihin  Kytit'^tn  of  "uriMiriculUin-"  i*  <ih<!mk'My  jiiiii- 
viau^.  Wiiiil  ointuin*  nitru^n  like  all  oilier  iiniiiiiil  mii!)- 
stancm,  so  that  woollen  ra^  must  be  and  are  valimblo  as  < 
nianun-. 

Tlti>  oUTtf-Wrry  riprns  in  tltc  auUimn ;  il  bcoomvM  blnck, 
and  bejpiu  to  fall  olT  th«  trM  in  l)cccml)l^^  iind  J»niiury. 
Somo  of  the  treus  are  at  onoe  clrAred  by  bcatinj;  the 
bmnrlit-'t  uith  loii;>  cimee.  In  Ihiil  case  the  oil  is  not 
•0  a)>iiiid:int,  but  i«  "f  bi'tlw  qunlily.  In  other  ctwm  the 
bi!m(f9  Me  leli  >iit  thi^  Irw^i  for  two  ur  three  mouths  luu^r ; 
until  indeed  they  uvarly  all  full  olf.  The  oil  made  from 
tbl■M^  l<crnc«  i*  moru  aliimdnnt,  but  not  eo  f^oui.  The 
olivni  arc  «miilliT  than  tliuM  which  wo  eat  pieklvd  ;  the 
latter  hvtlon);  to  another  ii)»ccie«  of  the  Olive-tree,  tvhioh  it  I 
priti«ii>»lly  L-iiltirnted  in  S|>ain. 

Pii-kiu);  ihi!  olivo  berries  from  the  i^ound  iindiTiicnth 
the  trv^w  it-  <[>tiUs  an  o<wa]>ation  with  old  or  infirm  tvomun, 
nnd  with  young  giri>-  They  nnrn  about  twenty  nous  {Uhl.] 
a  day,  and  their  labour  eontraata  strtlcin^^ly  with  that 
of  the  siron;;  ruddy  orange  and  lomnii  i^irlfi.  Mittiy,  no 
dnubt,  rotnmenoe  a»  the  latter,  strong  in  youth  iiud  health, 
tn  end  by  ulive-piokin^  «n<:e  the  heyday  of  life  if  over. 
Thr  jMwr  olive-pickon.,  clod  only  in  thin  cotton  dreseeei' 
niv  a|)t  to  become  rhenmutic,  from  eroiichin<r  ko  long  over 
the  ground,  at  timns  diiin|>  I'mni  the  winter  niimr.  Such, 
tJHi  ol'tuu,  ix  ll>c  ooiitnixt  lH:twi-en  ymith  and  age  in  the 
working  eUssee  in  all  conntrini. 

TIte  olives,  onou  gathered,  are  taken  to  the  olive-mills, 
where  tJiej-  are  cru»faed,  and  the  oil  in  extracted.  Tbew 
tnilla  nr^  picturaaujiie  buildingx,  luluat^d  in  the  ravines  inl 
nrder  to  mmmund  wnlrr.  In  some  vi.itiT  is  used  alone,  in 
others  combined  with  horse>)>owcr.  The  olivca  are  cnisbed 
by  stum*  tullen; ;  the  pul|)  ia  ]>nt  in  «to<it  cylin<lriojd  buKkctii, 
wittiruled  witli  hot  wat«r,  ami  lubjeulvd  to  great  (ireeaure. 


24 


THE    RIVIKRA    AX»  MKXTOSE. 


Tbe  water  thus  squeezed  out  eairies  the  <>il  wiUi  it  to  va 
vfhtra  it  lloate  on  tbe  top  mid  is  skimmed  olT.     Tliis  wat 
whni  it  h»»  thiif  done  iti;  duty,  U  t>r  »  diirk  hron-n  oolwrf 
Hnd  ia  cDtmlmilly  Mcen  eoiniiig  donii  tlio  raviitea,  euItKinn| 
llie    tvater'VUUTBCs.      ^'o    st«am>]iuwcr    inilU  are  as  jrcC 
kitoiin. 

'I'lu-  (dive  oil  i*  ofi«n  stored  in  Inr^'e  i-lesnwlly-Jtliuirod 
jiiiv,  ijiiiie  lui'(;e  enough  to  coiititiii  n  uiun  hiddeu.  Un 
looking  intoii  wareliouse  and  M«ing  these  lur^  j»re  ranged 
in  rowealoii);  tl>c  ivall  I  aiu  alwaVB  reminded  of  the  E^tKtvrB 
IhI«  oI"  "  llndji  BaUa.  and  the  Forty  Thitrw."  niews  vivr 
I'videiitly  tht:  idviitind  jui'!<  in  which  the  thieves  ei>tioealeJ 
I heti)>r'lveti  duritif;  the  night,  and  wi-re  oxttnoiiuuted  60 
iruniiin'iily  by  Morttiaua. 

Tlio  hard  tuotsand  wood  nf  the  OHvo-tre«  conKtitut«  ll 
oidj  Tuel  urcd  at  Mcntone,  the  cooking;  liviug  tiiiiicipallj 
e:irried  u»  by  tneniin  ol'ehareoul,  tm  in  Frunec.  I'he  tialiva' 
|)opiilot)uii,  however,  seldom  muke  tires,  except  for  cuUnaiy 
purposes.  Tliey  trust  entirely  to  wai'iu  woollen  Karmi'iibaj 
even  on  the  few  really  cliilly  days,  w  htn  the  »iiiiutnil>  ol  tlw 
f^nrronmiing  liei^litK  lire  whiti;  with  mkiw,  and  )jli>t«n  in 
tbe  nun  like  tbe  Miow-eupiied  uiuuutaiiiK  of  Switzeilaud  or 
tho  Tyrol. 

Even  strati|*ers  from  tlio  Dorlh,  secuetomed  to  large  coal^ 
lin«  or  Ifl  xlovo'uanned  rooms  for  u  grrat  piirt  of  the  yeurJ 
seldom  think  of  liithtingu  liix-  in  uMitith  xnn-ux|K)*i'd  rouiiK 
until  evening,  and  iben  often  more  for  eoiii|ianionihip  th»u 
(rum  abKohitu  nccit^ity.  On  the  exceptional  eloudy  aud 
iTold  dii'iji,  however,  lUe  "  biiskets"  of  oUve-roots  and 
linitiebes  di^uppeiir  rapidly.  Tbey  do  their  duty,  too,  iin 
warm  us ;  whereas  in  uiir  own  cliuiato  sueb  I1r-s  would 
of  no  Rvnil,  a  mere  delusion. 

Tbiiii,  in  di-Meendini;  lix>m  the   north,  we  have  at  laa 
reached  a  region  Mifliciently  »lu-ltered  and  vnllioiently 
to  the  sno  for  its  mys  to  pi-uduee  nannth  eouu^h  lo  »u[ 
)>ort  human  life  with  no  other  nrlilicial  assistance  than  tbuti 
oCdothes.    Wo  no  lotiyt-r  rctjiiire  the  dente  furcsls  of  more 
itortheru   and   inoi«  Urtile    regions.     W'c  are   no   lon^^er 
dependent  on  tbe  vast  coaMields  whioh  the  ««rtti  eonbitus 
witiiin  ilo  bosom,  the  rvmains  of  the  active  vet;t;tatton  ofj 


I 


CLIMATe  AND   VEGETATIOS. 


25 


brtner  periods  of  the  wotM'ii  hixtory,  the  fossil  iKud  xun- 
ams,  08  it  were,  orag^  far,  I'ar  di>timt. 
AnotUrr  ovUli-iiou  of  tlio  exce|>tioi)al  (vsnntli  oT  the 
wintiT  L-liiiiatc  ix  the  jtreKi-nci)  of  Inr^  EuphorUiit  l>iishv« 
■iifl  c>r  lar^u  CuroulM-tri'iw.  Some  tpoeios  of  tli«  Kiipliur bin, 
of  nliicli   there  are  maoy,  become  shruba  in  tliis  itv^ion, 

L.vitli  liir;;i;  liirneoiie  sti^ms.     In  muny  of  tho  mfirc  prulvutej 

ftt-yHinN  liioy  grow  ilk  lur-jf  iitc  Uliuiluilvndroii  Imshi-s.  At 
tiUw  I  only  fuunil  titcin  us  liixuriur.l  iii  onu  sjiut,  the  tfoulh- 

mBteideof  the  castle  hill.  In  ItJy  the  lutiliiilcor  SutiUmrn 
Sicily  mu«t  Iw  rmchc^l  to  liud  tliciii  c-quitlly  Honrtsiiinif. 

"They  nre  »iiiggliir  [iliml*,  aiii]  gn>w  in  the  mnxt  mid  xjtobr, 
on  lK'«|ie  or  BtuiifS  an  Win  »vii-«hore,  in  thu  crevioL'«  of  roclcs, 
y«t  with  u  vi;*our  aiid  lii\uriiiiice  wliioh  is  |>LTleclly  sorpria. 
in(>.  I'hrir  gnmlli  iK't-ins  uith  the  autumn  rutins,  when  thuy 
throw  out  u  inuua  of  lij;ht  i^rc-un  tcrmiiml  li-uvt-i'.  They  th«ii 
prodnce  niiniiMuua  suiidl yellow iitli-gixt-ii  llowvrs  thriiu;;hoiit 
ihe  winter,  i-arly  or  late,  accortlin;f  to  8[>ec-ies.  IW  secret 
of  the  iuxnruiiit  verdure,  under  a  bnrnin;;  sua,  in  the  i»o9t 
arid  i>|iotfi,of  MK-hn  iniisii  uf  di-lioite  folin;;e,  is  thu  cxistvnve 
of  a  kind  ofcaoutohu  in  thvtr  whitv  airid  .iui(-i.-M.   Tiii.«  gnni 

ItrweuUi  the  eraiwrjlion  thni  nunld  tnku  i>lace  from  the 
inives,  uiid  whioh  would  si>oii  dry  ii^  the  loliii^  of  a  pisiit 
growing  under  such  ci run mvUin el's,  without  »omo  pwuliur 
protcctiun.  The  white  milliy  nap  of  the  Ku[thorbiu  is 
rpiiiitoiiouH  to  man.  I  r<*colli-ct  ivading  ahout  casus  of 
roisunini;  at  Multa,  atlTihut^-d  to  drinking  the  milk  of 
ihitt  lud  (od  iipui)  it. 
The  vlfginit  white  vilver-lviived  Cineraria  mntitim»  is 
nnd  alnniduntly  in  the  samo  tixuilitiiii.  It  grows  from 
l^erevicet)  in  shtlti-reJ  rucks,  p^uerally  in  the  immediute 
vicinity  of  the  Bfu,  and  olV'nattuinH  theeiKeolH  lari^e  hosh. 
This  pretty  ohrah  hiu  heen  intnxlucud  into  our  oomHirvntorics 
lud  into  otir  summer  ^■i"l<'i3  as  an  edging  plant  for  the 
■ke  of  it«  foliage,  «inoe  the  taste  for  fuhagc  pUntii  hiiK 
icuine  so  ({vnvrul,  and  it  is  pleasant  to  lind  it  in  its  native 
clime. 

Tha  Carouba,  of  loeust-lree,  i*  really  one  of  the  glories 
of  tliu  ai>d  of  other  kirrcn  but  warm  regions  in  the  Moutli 
of  Eoropo.   It  18  u  benutittil  evergreen  tree,  v>};orous,  frei»h. 


26  THE  RIVIEHA    AND  MENTD.NE. 

■nd  pnioefnl,  with  nn  nbuiiHant  lieht-gTMo  folbgv. 
f>rnws  in  the  moft  rtony.  Arid,  nii<l  Lurnt-up  |>laoec,  on  rocli 
miul  o»  niouiiLitM  sitl«ui  where  there  t»  scarcely  a  p«rtic)e  of 
Boil,  and  where  its  vm*  existence  is  n  mnrv-el,  a  pmhlcm,  a 
source  of  positive  ^iiriinFO  nnd  fsiillatton  to  the  Miulder^ 
I»dr«<),  tbo  Cnroiik^  may  he  ermvideietl  nn  emblem  of  ever 
CTecn  ve^tation,  ami  a  pert'eL-t  botmiiirj)  demons  t  ration  J 
Siicb  a  iree  can  only  live  very  purtiiilly  from  its  roots, 
timy  often  only  bind  it  to  the  rock  on  whiJi  it  grows 
erwping  into  cr«viee«  and  laying  hold  «f  every  invuualil] 
of  (j^round.  It  mubt  live  in  a  great  nM-usnre  by  its  {eavM[ 
OB  moat  everffreeiw  <lo,  to  a  very  considerable  extent.  The 
Carouba- tree  bears  bfiin)i  in  pod*,  very  uKcfiil  for  the  feedinff 
ofc«ttl«.  Kach  trti'insiiid  to  prodiiMO,  one  year  with  another, 
twenty  franca'  worth  of  fruit.  Thew  beans  tiave  1>eeQ  intro- 
duoed  of  late  into  Enfrland  for  this  purjione.  In  Ilie  almost 
rainlcH  r^ijion  on  the  contb-cast  const  of  Spain,  between 
Valencia  II  nd  Malaga,  the  Caro»ba4re«  taorni  of  the  principal 
featurex  of  the  auaitty  vegetation.  In  many  nuii-bumt, 
Boorched  dUtrict«,  this  tree,  with  the  Uliveand  the  Opunlia 
or  prickly  ]>ei:r,  are  all  hut  the  only  products  of  the  soil. 
The  ximiliinty  of  vegritatton  indicate*  similnrity  of  climate : 
drrncaa,  anmmer  beat,  and  winter  inildni-«it, 

rhe  exutenee  of  the  Carouba  explains  why  vegetation  is 

ftrincipally  evergreen  in  arid  rocky  spots,  where  there  is 
ittk-  or  no  »oil,  and  where  that  little  is  in  a  great  measure 
fonned  by  the  pulvcrii^ation  of  riK-ks,  or  contain*  but  slight 
nutritive  eleinenls,  as  sand  for  instance.  The  acnuty  or 
poor  toil  will  not  (vei  plants  that  only  bear  ]«uvea  (bra 
few  nionlhs  in  tlie  ynir,  uhi^renith  to  extract  nourishment 
from  the  air,  so  nature  Mupplieit  their  place  by  dvergreem, 
which  have  all  the  year  mund  millions  of  lungK,  in  the 
bIuim!  of  leaves,  pumping  noarishment,  in  the  form  of 
carbon,  from  the  air.  In  northern  climat«s,  in  hi^h  lati- 
tudes, in  arid  Siinily  Roils,  it  in  the  eveigrc«n  Conit'ere  i>r 
Fir  trilx;,  the  Heaths  and  the  llolliiti,  that  thitK  upply  to 
the  air  lor  Ihu  itotiriKhmont  rehisu-d  to  them  by  the  soil. 
In  southern  lutitiid'^,  >ui'h  as  Mentone,  it  ia  the  Orange, 
tl»e  I^'mon,  the  Olive,  and  higher  up,  in  cold  monntain 
.regions,  Cunilt-rs  again,  ns  in  ihe  north,  that  perform  tlte 


CUMATE  AND  VBOETATION. 


27 


MUM!  (Mrt.  Thns  n  explained  Uic  fact  of  lh«  T«!*vtiition  of 
the  Mviiloiiiuti  amiitiitbeaLre,  u  cnciv  riicky  mrinntniit-Kidc, 
beiflfi;  lieariy  all  of  uii  evergreen  cl)ar:i«tvr.  No  oltit-r  kind 
of  wirutiition  i-milil  Ufv  iiDtl  Ihrivo  tlivre.  The  tifVf  ilec'l- 
diUMU  trrffl,  Hoeli  lut  O.iko,  rtniivtf,  nml  Willowx,  tliut  ure 
foDnd,  unt  |trii)d|Mlly  tnt>t  with  uloiit;  IW  mkr^in  of  tliu 
torrenUi  as  they  Bjiproach  tlie  sea,  wbere  ulIiivUl  soil  has 
beon  dt'ivv^iu-d  into  whk-h  ntoi§ture  percolnUw  IVviii  Uie 
lii^jhvr  luouiituiii  r<!^oni>. 

AUtiu;  witli  tiie  Cai-ouUi  may  I>e  mentJoiked  FUtacin 
Lentbciis  and  TerebinthiniH  Chio  as  pectdiaily  indicativa 
of  ■  dry,  Hiinshiay,  fioiitheni  climnte,  and  of  ii  rocky,  arid 
ngion.  I'.  LcnlitictM  in  un  cvt-rgrcen  slirul>,  ufincli  grown 
frfHy  ill  the  namu  regions  as  tiie  Curouba,  lIoweriiiK  during 
live  wiutiT,  ami  is  very  abundant  between  Nit-e  and  VcnU- 
mi^lia-,  indood,  all  alon^  iho  ICivicra.  1  ItHind  it  even 
m>nv  cmiQiun  in  Conicu,  wbere  it  contribiite*  t"  form  llic 
muqiiin  or  liTu»hn'ood,  as  alHO  in  Sardinia,  and  in  Africa  on 
tito  ra uii tics t ion*  of  &Iuunt  Atlas.  It  form*,  I  believe,  ono 
(if  llic  efitef  botanical  fuuturoa  of  Palestine  and  Syria. 

Tcrvbititbiuus  Chio  t*  frequently  mot  with  on  tb«  nio«t 
nhflicrinl,  onnnicsil,  vameat,  and  mmt  arid  miHintain  aide*. 
]l  in  a  iiij;iiflous  shrub  or  small  tree,  and  is  remarkable  as 
beiii^  tb<r  Ust  tree  or  ehrub  met  with  in  the  I><»«rt  of 
Saliaro,  on  di;Ki;ending  frtfin  tho  Mtith  slopes  of  ttiu  Atlas. 

AImjvi'  tin;  Olive-tcco  eluvutjun,  that  i*,  al>ov«  2HO0  feet 
or  tiiormlMUt«,  ('onifera  only  are  met  with  naturally,  al- 
Lbon^li  fruil-lrees,  Apples,  tears,  Cberriea,  and  Vines  are 
eultivaU'd;  as  for  iiistunee  around  St'.  A^ncs,  a  mountaia 
vilb)^.  Tlie  CoiiifoK  oecupy  the  lower  ventral  bilU  when 
U)«  noil  is  sandy  or  gravelly  from  the  xhoi-e  InviO,  uiid  olimb 
up  Uieir  siilea.  Whert-  not  too  precipilous,  they  also 
Doeapy  the  ^itlfs  of  the  hii^hvst  or  back  limestone  mouHUiin 
noge.  Behind  the  M«ntone  nmpbttheatru  the  Conifen 
only  ooeuiiy  northern  slo|>ea  until  we  reaeh  the  Col  dc 
Tend*,  troin  tlic  shore  level  the  higher  trees  appear  mere 
shrubs,  owing  to  the  great  elevation,  but  once  thoy  aiv 
i«*ched,  tliey  prove  to  bo  regpeetnbly-Bix«tl  tnn-c.  Still 
tliUM  fonwta  ovftninly  contain  no  timber  "  lit  for  huildinj; 
men -of' war,"  as  a   member  of  the   Douse  of  Conimoiia 


OIU 

i 


28  THE  niVIERA  ASD  MENTONK. 

slated  during  tite  Oeltttte  on  Uie  ceesiDii  of  Mi^ntono  and 
Kmcaltnina  to  Frniioe.  Tbcy  coDtnbutc  but  little  to  the 
vr«alth  o>'  thu  country. 

The  Conifi:ni  wliivli  oover  t)ie  sandy  hills,  and  cliinb  up 
the  limeetuue  mountaius,  arc  principally  tliu  Piuiis  ina- 
titima,  with  llie  Juniper  and  the  Pinus  Ilalqiviii'iN  or 
Ak-jipo  Pint-,  tltv  comntonoit  on  Um  cuiuL  un<l  islauiiti  uf  the 
ModitvrranMin.  Tlier  do  not  attain  any  vt-ry  ^rirat  height, 
but  are  hvaltliy  aod  nourUhiii^.  'llio  Mntittmo  I'ino  is  the 
most  abtmdant  and  hardy  pine  on  the  norlh  ehoru  of 
the  Iklcdilrrmncan,  und  thrivM  on  calcarvou*  fortnationt 
l^ucarly  hn  wi-ll  an  on  Hclitttic  and  «audy  soils.     Althon 

~  •wooded,  and  not  very  valuable  as  timber,  it  is  still 
BDsiveljr  used  for  biitlilin>;  and  other  pur[>os>.-F,  for  want 
woodg.  In  spring-time  the  Pine  fortiil*  olWn  iU!' 
fton  the  BtliickH  of  th«  caU-rptllur  of  the  Uoinlnx  pr«ce** 
aionis  tnoth.  'llicse  cat«rpillan>  come  U>  lile  in  lartfv 
woolly  nests  suspended  in  the  trees  liku  bog*.  AVheo  tiilly 
developed  they  leave  the  uest,  previous  to  piueing  into  tlui 
chrysalis  stji};v,  nod  fonn  Icnt^thvia'd  proomiouH,  wliidi 
iro  often  met  witii  in  the  fbreat  paths,  and  ni-t'  very 
enriotui.  The  caterpillars  mart-h  one  alter  the  other  in 
sinjfl^!  file,  elimbing  over  everytliiii>;.  Tlicy  »hould  not  be 
handled,  as  initation  of  the  i>kin  follows. 

In  one  spot,  in  the  (grounds  uf  the  Madonna  Villa,  in  the 
western  bay,  are  some  very  line  specimens  of  the  Plnua 
Pine«,  the  stone  or  umbreiUi  Pine,  the  oiaKsU-al  Piuo  of 
Italy.  One,  morw  wjH-cinlly,  n  very  iM-aulilul  tree,  throwi 
up  a  hir^  ftein  viii-niouutvd  by  nn  immense  nmbrvlla- 
likv  muss  of  LHUianl  deep-;;rei.-n  foliage.  Tlicre  is  some- 
tliiug  peculiarly  Italian  in  the  ap|>varunce  of  thi»  nohio 
tree,  willt  its  canopy  of  rich  green  leavca  extending  table- 
like. In  ludy  it  is  no  vlU'n  a  prominent  feature  in  th« 
lan<lacBpe,  that  it  becomen  as»ueiat«d  in  the  traveller's 
iniod  with  llie  monuments  and  niiiis  indelibly  stamjied  on 
his  recolki^lion.  Indeed,  whtn  »iltiii|;;  under  tho  shade  of 
theiie  treee,  the  de«p  blue  nen  ut  our  feet,  the  clear  i=ky 
above,  and  the  sbnrp  clear  outline  of  the  adjoininj^  muun- 
tninc  aronnd,  it  it  iinpo^^iblo  not  to  fivl  that  wa  really  ate 
iu  Italjr — notwithKluridin;;  diplcmittic  uouexulioM.     bo* 


CLIMATE  AND  VBGETATIOX. 


29 


luted  spvcifnons  only  of  this  Pine  are  seen  at  Mcotone.  At 
(!uniH-«,  nt  itic  foot  of  the  E$U-ri'l  moiintuin,  thirrc  ii<  <)uil»| 
■  fiirrHt.  i>r  1bt>ni.  I  pnictimc  ii  iiniMl^'  roil  in  nil  but  oiii^iiltiil 
to  llieir  wcll-bciiiKi  iw  it  t*  for  inoft  Conifers.  Ttie  Pinus 
tnaritima  thrivint;  as  stal«d  on  OJtlcarvouB  soils,  encceeds 
pcrfrctly  at  M«nt<i»L-  ami  coven:  the  Cap  Iklartin,  n  limc- 
ttnnt-  rock  tin  th<!  mil  Ivri-I,  m  well  m  Uie  Hanks  of  ihe 
hi)flier  ooHtio  TnuiiiitJiiufl. 

Th«  Cork  tree  ((Juercns  Suhor)  is  oocnsiouiilly  met  with 
nn  thu  Riviera,  l>ut  is  not  nlKiiidant  n>  on  tlie  fatidy 
■chiKtin  lununtiiinK  of  tlm  Kvlttivl,  where  it  grown  v«ryi 
froclr,  and  is  ctillivated  for  prolil.  llie  acorns  are  ^ven 
III  piKB,  the  hark  is  used  for  tanning,  and  tliu  cork  is 
vxm>rlc<l. 

Till?  raritv  of  docidnoiis  trcpa  giv«a  a  pecniiarly  iiniilini>, 
diierfiil,   stimmi'r  n^[ir<;t   to  the  entire  district,  with  its 
bills,  rid^ir^,  and  valleys,  even  in  mid-winter.     In  no  pnrt 
of  Italy  or  Sjmin  that  1  havo  vj^iltii  have  I  olwervcd  tin* 
univcrmil   winti-r  vcrdviro  here  witiK-Bucd.     liven  lJ»c  far- 
(itmnl  Ijny  of  Xophv,  m  teen  (Vom  the  )soa  on  entering, 
nfliera  t«  the  traveller   nearly   aa   winterly   an   aiipcot   in 
Uewtnher  as   EhkIuikI  or   FiviMie.     The  hi;*!!  grannd  of 
Ni'hia,  und  of  the  continent,  pro^ciilK  nkimcroua  nuked  Fig-, 
Inv*  and  Vincv,  th^  uvikkI  of  wliieh  i»  very  ditfuivnt  to  i 
IhnL  of  the  atctn  trees  that  cover  the  Meatonian  amphi*] 
theatre,     Wo  meet  with  winter  venlure  in  our  own  for««ts 
of  Scnteh  or  Spniw  Firs,  but  tlien  the  wi»l«r  itVy  i«  gcno- 
rally  somlii'v.  tilled  with  mawes  of  lMul-i-o)»ured  chruils,  anil 
the  SHU  is  oliscured.     At  Mentone,  on  the  eontrary,  the 
•un  moRtly  shines,  and  ijoneraHy  throws  a  greater  glow  ottJ 
the  iiimlKcnpc  in  Jiiniiary  th^tii  it  dow  on  our  evcrf^recnl 
fuTcst^  in  .Inly.   The  verdure  at  lin<t  uppeattt  ratlier  vombre, 
as  it  is  prini-t|iii1ly  formed  bv  the  Ulive  woodx,  the  Orun(;« 
and  iMMion-trees  ceneralty  hiding  in  the  valleys,  but  the 
eye  f;^dtinlly  gels  arxiustomed  to  the  hue.     In  the  eRstcrn 
bay,  however,  aa  wo  have  ittta,  thoro  are  many  groves  o( 
liubt-griren    Lemon- Ireea,  ocoii()ying  th«   open   mountain , 
*ide  for  the  first  IdOU  feet  in  oUitude. 

'Dio  dfcidiKitu  Irei-s  arw  princi]>ally  Planes,  WiHowe,  and 
Kig-Lioua,     llitf  Willows  line  the  margin  of  some  of  ihv 


30 


TIIU    HIVIHKA    AND   MKNTON'IL 


larger  torn-iiU  nn  tlicy  a|>proach  the  sua.  The  PlanaT 
are  |ilai)lu<l  in  iivuimi'si,  I'lir  thn  miltu  of  the  deiise  aud 
gratdul  shade  they  give  in  Humnier.  One  avenue  is  the 
mnin  rond  from  Nice,  and  ia  ooDtinueJ  into  the  town  ;  the 
other  i«  along  the  bniil.s  of  the  tonvnt  nliiirh  desveiidi 
from  {he  nionntain  by  the  nide  of  the  Turin  ni»(),  in  th« 
vtilley  "du  Cnrei."  This  latter  is  the  piiiit-ipal  summer 
]>romcti»(li;  ol'  the  inhabitants.  There  are  a  (v\v  d«<;iduous 
Uaks  and  Ch<-)>tniit«  scattered  about  the  hill*  aiid  thit 
^-alleys. 

The  oriental  I'lane  has  been  cidtivated  from  time  im-^^ 
in«morini  in  Asia  .Minor  and  in  Greece,  and  Trum  th«  ttia4^| 
of  the  Itfimanti  in  Italy,  but  for  its  shiule  only,  tho  woocP^ 
not  being  vuluable.  In  former  dayit  it  watt  treated  with 
fi^eat  reverence  and  resiieot.  No  tree  in  these  c)imat«s  can 
bti  compared  to  ii  for  beauty  and  density  of  foliugv  in 
siimmtir.  In  the  xoutli  uf  Hiirogic,  and  in  the  flast,  it  it 
hardy  ami  vigiirouK,  uttjiinin<;  very  i^r'^'At  size,  and  ihiurish- 
in^  in  the  midst  of  town«.  Thi^  latter  power  it  owes  in 
part  to  the  habit  of  shedding  yearly  a  portion  of  it«  Uirk  ; 
It  thus,  as  it  were,  gets  rid  of  its  eoilcd  outer  garniciilK, 
coutatninaleil  by  the  town  nlmnitphere.  The  rcxintano*  of 
the  Fbue  tree  to  city  inlIuenci-»  is  well  exemplified  at 
Toulon.  The  dense  and  healthy  grove  that  casta  bo  im- 
pMHjtraUe  a  shade  on  tho  "  PUi-c"  in  the  very  centre  of 
tile  town,  ia  componud  entirely  of  Plane*.  Owing  to  thin 
tree  bearintr  the  pruning  knife  as  well  as  an  Kngliah  holly, 
in  towns  the  top  branches  are  geuerally  clipped  back  rutb* 
IcMly  wheu  spring  arrives,  so  that  they  may  forni,  by  the' 
new  aliDots,  a  regulur  canopy  of  verdure.  Many  of 
readers  have  no  dunbt  been  awakened  at  early  dawn  by  the 
chorus  of  inuumcRible  birds  that  fretjuent  the  venlunt 
grove  of  the  market-place  at  Timlon.  A  similar  ehor 
may  be  hi-aid  each  eveninj;  in  the  tre»  growing  in  tt 
market-place  near  the  euslern  bay  at  Mentone  in 
aulnmn  and  early  part  of  the  winter;  indeed,  nntil 
]i«ve«  have  all  lullen. 

TheHe  XiKKit  d<j  nut  lose  their  leaves  until  the  ni^bta 
become  cold,  so  that  they  are  often  preserved  until  the  cad 
of  DeeoDiber.     The  ball-like  capsules  which   contain   tho 


CUMATK  AND  VHiKTATION. 


31 


Hwjs  rvmiiii  hansiog  rrom  th«  terminal  lifanobes  aU 
wint«r.  Tlit'v  nn-  liir;{i'f  thuii  in  the  Amerioaii  Plane  tree, 
whioli  vro  cnlttvuic  witli  xii<.vi.iiii  in  Kii^laiid,  siid  wbioh, 
liki!  t)i<i  orit^tital,  Uran  well  \he  iitiiio«]>l>oro  uf  Uiwna,  M 
may  lie  swn  in  Uerktley  Sjuan.'.  Tlio  priiniuji  takes  pliice 
early  in  Murch ;  iiinl  tliv  ncn-  Mowers  nii^  loavctg  nppc;ir  in 
April,  tlw  ronnor  pn!i-«ding  tlii.'  bttcr.  Tin;  onuiitiil  i'tanc 
tre«,  alUiMU|{)i  ({iiiU'  at  homo,  xloc*  not  upitear,  however,  to 
nacli  ite  full  size  in  the  Huutli  of  France  anil  luly.  Th«r9 
u  a  Plane  in  the  Galf  of  Li-panto  in  Uraece,  Uie  trunk  of 
wliioh  IN  furty-nix  fttet  in  (.-iremnrcrenee;  aiitl  i>n«  on  t)i« 
U<)i9[>liufu<»,  thti  Lnink  of  whic^h  U  unu  liimilivJ  and  fortr- 
an«  re«t  in  circumference  at  llie  base.  l)e  Cundolle  Uiitiks 
it  RtufiL  Ifc  two  thuusaiid  yvin  old,  and  that  it  is  one  of  llie 
UrgMt  UvtM  in  Uio  world. 

Fiff-tn«8  thrive,  an  ererywliere  elsi;  in  Italy.  Fortu- 
nately, hnwever,  for  tltc  loveni  of  the  picturCKlue,  they  are 
not  very  nuimirouR  at  Montonc.  Thoy  lo«a  thvtr  leaves 
early,  l>y  cLa  oitd  of  NowmWr,  and  do  not  rfgnin  tliein 
uuul  April,  ami  thoircliiin.-:y,  (;mcelcsi:,  weird-like  liraricliea, 
are  ait>lht«g  but  ornumcntul  during  the  winter,  Tite  fruit 
ia  uf  liraUi'atc  qttalily. 

Owut);  t»  Uie  niMunoe  of  froet  in  nil  l>iit  very  osponxt 
Eituationw,  many  of  our  Knylinh  i^arduii  (lowew,  which  are 
cut  down  by  Lhe  lintl  frosty  ni;;bt,  continue  lo  Dnurish 
and  blooni  all  the  winter  tbruu^j^h.  'Itiis  is  the  esse,  iov 
iaalanoe,  with  lImi  CicMninm,  the  lleliotriipit,  the  Vcrttonit^^ 
the  Nasturtium,  the  Salvia,  ond  M-unc  kinJii  of  llosM, 
tncludint;  tlie  China  lVa-ro»e,  whioh  continue  to  Hower 
Uin>u;;h(>nt  U»e  winter  in  sheltered  t;ar<lcns  The  NaHtur- 
tium,  an  nnnuid  with  us,  licGonit-s  u  [Kri-enniul  llmicoiu  shrub, 
at  in  IVu,  itit  liativo  country.  So  dura  the  C'oUieii  scandens, 
»'hii-h  luu*  a  ligneous  stem,  and  lluwers  continiicinwiy  in 
winter,  'tliere  are  aleu  many  flowers  |H-cii1br  In  miielt 
moru  southern  ulimulei,  wlitvh  bUM>n)  tliri>u^li(iHl  the  winli^r. 
Itiit  aa  I  purpose  dovulin^  ii  xpci-iid  uhiipler  to  eidtivalet) 
tluwers  and  hortieulturu,  I  stiall  now  conliuo  myoulf  to  wiUl 
nature. 

Wild,  sweet- )>mdlin|*  Viuleta  npi^ear  almat  the  middle  of 
Uec-euiber  in  the  warmott  si>ot4.     The  Nurciostu  nivens. 


b 


32 


THE   HIVIKRA    ANU  HESTONB. 


un<l  other  flowers  of  llie  same  g«nu«  arc  found  cqtuilly  enriy. 
By  llic  tml  of  Janunry  viol«ts  liavi-  liccoim;  n  w««d,  flowc'riiiij 


m 


from  titc  fU'vioiU)  ol  every  mill,  along  every  patli,  nn<l  i, 
ereij'  torr«iit>1>ed  that  Uie  ami  reaches.  Tlie  delk-ate  Ly 
podiam  of  otir  hot-haus(«  iind  Goneen'ntoriiit  rcpluues 
nocompanies  Uie  moi^'e  of  thv  north,  gr<i»  lag  fmAy  in  all 
dump  pIncM  throughout  the  winter.  Wild  Aneinoiiee  of 
dilTerent  oiwcies,  eoine  of  which  are  very  beaiitilul,  Iwtriii  to 
MorHom  in  DcM-mbcr  or  Jitncury.  TWy  are  rapidly  iiua- 
Cevded  l>y  Daffodilx,  Narcissus,  lijactntliK,  Tuiipx,  Gladiole 
HfputicuM,  and  Primroses.  All  these  flowera  are  fount!  wil^ 
but  onir  ID  certain  regions  known  to  the  "  initiiitcd"  and  i  . 
Bome  of  the  donkey  women.  The  white  AlvKtiuni,  which  wi> 
liM!  forgnrilcn  eil(;in[^,  iei  ver^'  CDinmoii,nii(l  flowera  throug 
out  ihe  witiU-r,  as  iJ<ies  a  lari;e  species  of  daisy. 

Mignonette  <:rowii  wild  in  ^omc  lomlitics,  on  thu  terrac 
of  the  eastern  bay  for  instance,  l>nt  it  hae  but  very  litL 
odour,  unlike  Uie  swvot-tcentcd  api-cieit  yHttttla  oiivrala)  of 
our  gardens,  which  in  n  native  of  the  o|ipn)iit«,  or  African 
shore  of  Ihe  Mediterranean.  The  Caper  pbnt,  a  tropica] 
shnih,  thrives  and  |n-nduceB  fruit  almiidanlly,  a  fact  in  il«clf 
evidence  of  a  wanii  i-liinatc.  It  i*  of  dwidtiotw  hahtt,  and 
toMiiir  it«  leavMi  eaily  in  the  autumn  merely  to  refrain  them 
lat«  in  the  eniing,  docs  not  at  all  contribate  to  nintt^r 
decoration.  The  Peppcr-lree  (KinuK  Mcilli)  a  cultivated 
ill  gardenn,  on  acooiiiit  of  it«  foliage.  It  rcmaini*  in  Iraf 
during  the  winter,  and  ie  a  handsome  tree  with  pendulotia 
leaves  and  pretty  red  berries  in  cliistci-s.  Th«  Anetralian 
Eucjilyptiiii,  or  Gum-trec,  prow*  ami  thrive*  wherever  then; 
is  ■  certain  depth  of  Hoil,  with  it«  ukuuI  Tn|iidity  nod 
luxuriance. 

Succulent  plants  thrive  wherever  planted",  and  in  eoma 
rc(;ione  have  become  tiuite  wild.  The  lar^u  Mc«omhryan- 
themtim  ih  peculiarly  Iiixuriiint  in  it*  growth,  and  brilliant 
in  its  bloom.  The  absence  of  winter  frost,  the  heat  and 
drjrneDS  of  summer,  and  the  he^vy  rains  of  antnmu  and 
spring,  nvrm  ijuile  to  o»i)iimiIntc  the  climate  to  that  of  iu 
native  country,  the  hilln  uiid  plain.'<  ol  the  Ca))e  of  Good 
Hope.     It  is  in  full  flower  by  the  middle  of  April. 

Tne  Prickly-pear  {Oj/uiitia  vutgarit),  the  commonest 


CLIMATE  AND  VROETATION. 


33 


tUo  Cwtsoeie  in  tiw  Moditetraaean,  flouHsUn  in  llits  clitaato 
a»  well  a»  in  ihe  rooky  mountains  of  Mexico,  ita  unlive 
country,  as  mil}-  be  bccd  by  lhi>  llmvint;  Fpecimens  in  various 
pitru  or  ttiv  town,  nnd  in  my  Orimnldi  i^Jink'n. 

llto  Alo«  is  eqnnlly  ut  Iioiiw  in  tlie  divtrict,  indeed 
all  over  the  Meditctranean  luasin.  lint  at  Meiitone 
it  ilm-x  not  firum  to  bo  a[»preciat«d  as  nt  Nice,  whcru  mnny 
ma^iiiliaint  niMMimen*  ar«  to  be  itecii.  lnd«vd,  the  Mon- 
toauns  do  not  a[i[)«jir  to  value  land«osiw  giudeniit^  or 
g»rd«nin([  of  any  kiod.  Very  few  flowers  are  cnltivated, 
cieopt  for  preparing  perfumes  or  in  ttiv  gardeoa  Mttochvd 
to  toe  ItouNCH  let  to  ktmnj^era.  They  seem  to  tliink  it  a 
toM  of  time  to  bestow  labour  or  trouble  on  auythin^  that 
ia  btpt  dratincd  to  bo  eonaiimod  as  fixnl.  Tins  oomplot« 
abamoeof  llic  IntenMloveof  llowerHantl  tirnnmcntJil  [fitrdun- 
injf  whiob  (n-rvades  all  classes  of  society  in  more  riiiiorous 
dimatfs  eliiimcUtriivs  Sontbem  Europo^It«ly,  Pianoe, 
ond  S]iun.  .Wbere  do  wo  kcv  tbe  Rom*,  the  Ck-matiit,  the 
jHauiinv.olimbiiigorertkGiiMHiat'soottage  «»  in  Kni>land? 
One  njanon  is  ttie  ditlioulty  of  kei'ping  plants  ahve  and 
Bourishin;*  without  watering,  duriii);  the  long  summer 
droaglitjt,  and  the  dilliuully  und  ox|>viinu  of  tindini;  water. 
Itul  ihia  dui-s  not  afiply  tu  the  Aloe  or  the  CactacoiD^ 
which  d<.-hi-hl  and  thrive  in  the  drieet  re<^ons.  And  what - 
con  be  niurv  |:;rnndio«e  than  llie  inmieiwo  AIo«b  Men  in 
the  vicinity  ol  Hht,  vegtttuble  gtantu,  on«  of  which  ia 
oRen  as  biTjre  as  a  small  houra  !  Is  tltere  not  also  great 
intoreel  in  wnlvhing  tlw  large  ltowur<epike  which,  alter 
the  Aloe  has  lived  a  long  life  of  digniltetl  re|Ki!<e,  iihoota ' 
op  in  u  lew  weeks,  on  a  &t«m  like  a  Mmall  Fir-tree,  Iroiii 
ItKwn  to  twenty  l<;ut  hi^ih,  utterly  di'ntioying,  by  itt-  rapid, 
mhauatine  gruwUi,  the  parent  pinnt?  Kv<-ry  winter  mnny 
of  iheac  uevtmetive  children  may  be  t«tMt  rjsinji  I'rum  their 
unfoTttinate  parents,  doomed  to  die  with  their  olfxprincr, 
among  the  Aloes  nt  the  Chatcaa  of  Is'ioe.  Aloua  in  llower 
may  nlwaya  bo  obaerved  also  at  Monaco,  where  there  i»  n 
gfove  of  young  Aloc«  on  tlie  terraces  of  the  old  t<>wn,  but 
smaller,  and  of  more  rtvent  {jrowth  than  those  of  Xice. 

The  Lily  tribe,  to  whieh  the  itpiny  Alue  Iwlongs — unlikely 
aa  it  may  seem  to  the  nun-liottinical  obderve^— has  anotbir 

o 


84 


THE  RIVIKRA    ASD   MESTON'K. 


representative  at  Menlone  whiuh  conn  the  tcmoei  ii 
Pflbitixry  with  while  cliistera  of  lovely  ilowera,  aod  witii 
w«  OAU  aW  cl.-iim,  n  vpuctva  of  R-irlie,  tlie  Allium  Nonpol 
ttinum.  Tu  tl)L<  tiatnc  nutnral  onli:r  LhO'hij^  tint  Axuirii^ui 
a  Bpecies  of  vrhicli  grows  wild  in  tliia  <li*triot,  aud  w  uearf 
alliM  Uf  ihv  wild  A>ipnni;;us  fouDd  in  Bn-^land. 

Tim  (>l«itn()oT,  <ir  imm  I^mrifl,  as  the  Frotnih  nil  it,  wi 
UM  »  stove  plant,  grows  in  tlio  opi'ii  air  to  the  sizi;  of  u  sin 
tree.  It  tnny  Iw  seen  both  along  the  wcsteni  and  thi 
outtcrn  bays,  alon^  thu  «cjt-shi)rc,  and  is  also  found  \ni\ 
wild  ill  some  of  i1>h  valli^Tx  to  the  cast.  Pi-i>ni  the  lirillinnt 
red  hue  of  its  IIowi-m  wht-n  in  full  blossom  it  haa  ^iven  tlie 
namo  of  Campa  Itomo  to  a  emnll  town  in  the  va)W  of 
Dtilec  A<i<|ua  l»-yond  Vi-ntiniifilin.  It  frioK**  *''"■'  margin  of 
the  rivers  in  Mmuit  Atb.i,  thtLi  funnitti^  a  iHiUincul  link 
between  Huroi>e  and  Africa.  The  oUandtr  flowers  in  tlie 
eumnicr  and  autumn,  ami  as  neitlier  its  habit  nor  it«  ever 
green  folia-^  w  rcmarkiible,  it  doefi  tiot  ultniet  mud 
attention.  'Htn  Tamariiik,  with  us  a  well-known  Mv-Midia 
shrub,  aUa  bt'C^mea  a  small  tree  with  a  gooii-aixvil  trunk. 
Ah  with  IIS,  it  lories  its  fulisgi>  in  winter,  but  n'jr.tins  it 
curly  in  April.  There  ut  n  row  of  thwc  Tnmiiritk-ircps 
Mkir(in>;  the  U-aeli  in  the  wislern  bay.  Tliey  fjruw  in  the 
ahiii^Ie  that  forms  the  beach,  a  few  feet  from  the  sea, 
thus  illustrating,  a«  in  the  north,  thiHr  peculiar  marine 
■ympathieti.  Some  plantst,  like  some  men,  thrive  anywhrrv, 
an  CMmopolite,  whilst  others  lIouriKh  only  in  their  native 
soil,  under  special  conditions  of  climate,  and  without  th< 
pine  and  eventually  die. 

Ah  ilhulriitive  of  the  e'mmo|)oIili!  plmit  may  h«  ni 
(ioneil  the  friend  of  our  childhood,  tht-  common  Blaekberr 
wllieh  wo  are  ^^ad  to  wetooinv  evuu  at  Mvntoiie,  In  the 
warmest,  wildest,  and  roekiest  regiunii  it  f;rowK  ax  vigo- 
ronoly,  a«  joyouxly,  as  in  any  r,uiet  lane  in  England  or  Scot- 
land,  only  in  such  situations  it  becomes  an  evenireen — in> 
thit  svnM!  that  it  doe^  not  I'wt!  one  xet  of  k-avp«  until  it 
ha*  got  another.  It  is,  in  (ruth,  u  siiij.>ul;>rly  h;irdy  plii'il, 
with  a  uiosl  peculiar  power  of  mhiptin^  itself  to  circum< 
ataoce".     All  climates  seem  to  agree  ecjually  well  with  i 


r-LLMATB  AND  TeoCTATION*. 


35 


hot  or  cold,  rainy  or  dry,  marilime  or  iiilani],  plain  or 
inoiinUin.  I  luvv  DOt'or  been  ton  spol  in  Kuro|>i>ur  Alrim 
vrhuri!  I  liuvo  not  fmiod  it,  I'mnt  Siilliurbndsiiiru  to  the 
BDutli  'if  S.irOiiiiii,  »idto  tlie  mui^iti  or  tlic  Sutiarn  dciwrt. 
I  ni'Ht:  (Miiri.->«  t<>  u  fwrtiiii  i)e;;reci  of  surprlso  whuii  I  ituw 
tlii*  fiivourilM  ofour  lihj'ly  Rti^ilish  Uik-m  t-mwiiif^  at  Mun- 
lono  with  wild  and  <lt!U>rmiii()il  laxnriiiiiuo,  lillii)>^  up  the 
Iim)  of  ilry  tiirrenU,  climijini;  up  trvcs  to  a  lieix'i'  "f  tivenly 
or  thirty  fwt, mil  chokiiii*  p.«»sii;fcs  l)i-tiv«eii  Icmnn  tarrjLvs : 
oil  tliL'  nioDiiuiii  sidi!,  and  lliat  in  re^ii»iii  wlturv  it  ufVi;n 
dow  not  r'in  iii  situini«r  tor  six  or  eight  months  togolhvr, 
and  uniliT  tlie  glura  or  lliu  li<»r(.-e  Mudit«rraiie.-in  sun. 
Orluinly  it  iiiukI  Iiuvv  a  nii>(<ioi)  u>  \'n\f\i,  anil  pi>iliii[M  tlint 
iniMi'in  it  to  mip}ily  a  ^ralvlul  IVutt  Ut  llit*  children  of  tJic 
vurv  poor,     'ritu  tiiiys  whoti  tliey  (;o  Llackbernin'^  arc  tnily 

tivtf  dnvK  to  tin-Ill,  and  Imt  fi-w  an-  tht;  iiuits  thi-y  tail 
ill  in  our  ultiiuitt-s.  Its  Hi)^hl  in  always  u-cIkhhi;,  iis 
ts  all  that  reiniiiilB  the  sojourner  in  foreij^n  lands  of  his 
nattvv  <.-oiintry,  and  of  llii-  hauulsaud pleasures  of  iii^  diild- 
hiwxl  and  of  hi«  lurly  yviuv. 

In  cprini;  n  vory  familiar  plant  >liow*  tU  iar:^',  vvlwty 
tnealv  li^^vi.'a,  in  many  placir«,  on  the  roud  sides,  and  at 
the  bottom  of  wulU — tin-  Verluiiicnm.  At  the  mmi:  time 
•ppeiini  ill  i^n-iit  almudantx-  and  liixuriancit,  in  lliu  eame 
vt^utnn,  a  tar>:e,  eI<-Kaatly>varii!f^jt«d  while  and  ewea 
Tlmtle.  Tlicy  both  are  in  flower  early  in  AfPil,  as  also  ii 
the  Aotirrliinuin,  or  Snapdrai><'ii,  <>vhi<;h  u  found  wild  on 
tlin  wjrin  tvrraiiirs.  It  tH-l<in^  to  the  Kiimn  natural  order 
as  lUo  VLTbasi-um,  that  of  tlio  Sci-i>pliuU>iace».  This  i« 
nUo  thf  tinii-  wlii-n  the  i.ik-t;iint  tittk-  ^npi-  llyat^'inth,  (lie 
Htar  (if  U.'thliihi'tn,   ihe  CUhw  or  roi^k    row,  tin;   priokly 

Droom,  ihe  I'yli'us,  Ihui'iir IIj,  and  muny  othtT  Waiititul 

(lowers  am  in  full  hloom,  and  tranfloim  the  ravines  and 
t«rruiws  into  r<^ilir  gardens.  1  muKt  not  i-itlier  furiji't  to 
niontion  tiic  (ground  orctiida,  of  whii-li  many  difTeriiit  kind* 
um  lonnd — ilie  tly  Orchis,  the  spider  Orcliis,  the  Orchia ; 
It4-u,  the  Ih^  Orchin.tho  Ion;;- Ira  clod. 

'l'l><>  vegetation  of  oooi-mi  \av'n<*  avoonling  to  the  nature 
of  the  a»il.   Sotue  of  the  lower  hilU  are  of  sandstone,  whiuh 


86  THE  RIVIEUA  ASD  MKSTONE. 

impreBsef)  od  the  flora  its  ]HM;u)tar  clinrnotcr.  Tti«  trctv  n 
Pines;  till!  ehruW,  th<;  ArLinlitt;,  tliv  Myrtiv,  tbe  Jiitii|>ttr, 
prickly  Brooiii>muunt»iii  Liav«D<)cr,  and  Heath.  AlChmt- 
inaa  our  coidmoo  Itii;;;  Hcatli  U  iu  full  flower.  Another 
very  Iwautiful  IleAth — the  Mcditcrrnnran  or  arbom^ 
llon-LTs  in  Foliniury  iiiitt  Miiix'li.  It  liux  an  erect  sUim, 
riviiiv  to  tbe  height  ul  five  or  ntx  Awt,  and  its  spikes  of 
numerous  white  tlowere  arc  moet  lovely. 

The  most  remarkable  of  tlienc  sautbtonc  liitU  k  the  ond 
liotwecn  the  Cabroie  and  Gorbio  valleyt,  cullod  the  St'. 
Lucta  and  the  Arbutus  riil;i;e.  Tbe  Teg^tution  I  have 
emimerated  is  quite  that  of  the  Corncnn  and  Sudiniao 
giunitic  aiiil  m  mitt  I  one  innunlaiiiB:  it  iit  sIko  tlutt  of  the 
same  I'oi  millions  on  ^Inunl  Atlns,  iu  Africa.  Thus  a  coiijile  ' 
nf  boura  Hi)ent  on  these  bills  give  a  ni06t  graphio  and  liu^^ 
idea  ol  the  vegetation  that  covets  some  of  the  mo«t  lovo^j^H 
and  roniunttc  regions  of  Uic  mountains  of  Corsica,  SiinlintO^^ 
and  of  North  Africa.  It  is  a  little  comer  of  .Africa  encased 
in  the  Mcntonian  amphitlteatre,  and  this  ideutity  of 
%'egetation  seems  to  prove  that  the  day  has  been  when 
the  Miirilime  Alj*,  the  ApeDiiincs,  and  Mount  Atlas  wct« 
one  syKtein  of  mountains. 

A  species  of  evergreen  creeping  Smilax,  or  Sareanaritb, 
with  variog»tc<l  trinngutitr  lejivt«  and  groups  of  red  berritt, 
i«  very  common.  Our  old  friend  the  Ivy  is  eonsilantly  net 
with  in  the  vallevs  nnd  watercourses,  wherever  the  soil 
roQtatne  lime.  Feme  are  very  numerous  throughout  tite 
dit'triet,  nnd  their  growlb  is  favoured  by  the  peculiar  stinc- 
tiire  of  the  terraces.  The  walls  bv  which  these  terraces  are 
bounded  are  formed  by  the  simple  superstructure  of  large 
stones,  dnd  the  earth  gradually  filtrntmg  into  their  inter- 
stjces,  toTins  a  cool,  damp  bed,  utlmimbly  a{hipte<l  to  their 
growth.  All  the  old  terraces  are  clothed  with  the  Ceteraeh 
lern,  the  Asplenium  trichomancs,  and  the  A>^plenium  adi* 
nntum  nigrum,  which,  with  the  Capilluii  vcnvnK,  or  maiden- 
liair  Pern,  are  the  must  common.  The  lattiTiua  merewi'dl, 
and  waves  its  U-autitul  IVuiidfi  near  every  tank,  every  brook, 
every  sroali  irrigation  caniil,  indeed,  wherever  there  is  either 
running  or  stagnant  water.  The  Ptvris  aquilina,  or  brake 
Fen>,  is  common,  but  it  is  a  summer  Fern,  us  with  us,  i 


CLIMATE  AND  VEGETATION. 


37 


Tnmd»  only  appearing"  in  April,  wIkd  tlie  invalids  are  priN 
paring  to  migrate  Qvrtliivnnis.  Tb«  Scolopuudrium,  the 
FolypoOium  vul^re,  th«  RuU  mnniHit,  AKpl«ni»in  Putriir- 
oluu,  ukI  ruiitainim,  the  Grjnimitiii  Lepl/>|)liylla,  and  ihn 
CbAiliiutlio»  (idurun,  ure  k-M  uitivoDiuUy  dt'^tributed,  altliough 
liy  no  means  uneominon.  On  llic  wliolo,  I  found  ttrvlvo 
diffcreut  sjwoitt  of  fenis,  wtUiin  a  fuw  iiundrod  fvc-L  uf  llm 
BM,  most  of  whkb  aru  also  root  with  in  Ku^Und.  In  lUa 
hi^h  mount^iinti  thura  ara  other  fl[M)citw  to  be  gathen^l.  I 
wuM  nthor  aurprixcd  iu  the  Rummer  that  I'ollowvd  my  lirtt 
int«r  nt  Montone  to  find  the  Aapleuiiiin  trivliomiim^n 
ivin;'  Willi  eqnal  luxuriance,  not  only  on  a  wall  in  the 
cmulltM  gardens,  but  also  on  the  ruins  of  an  old  chapel 
ia  a  tiolitMry  isli^t  at  the  northern  extremity  of  wild  and'^ 
beautiful  Loofa  Awe,  in  the  far  north,  on  the  west  coast  of 
Sootland. 

For  a  full  ucotmt  of  the  vogctation  of  the  Genoe»« 
Rivii^ru  I  would  rofor  to  M.  Ardoino'*  "  Horc  de*  Alpea 
Maiitimes,"  and  to  Mr,  Traht-riie  Moggridjfe's  very  beauti- 
ful book,  "Contributions  to  the  Mora  (if  Mi-iitone  and  to  a 
winter  Flora  of  the  Itiviera  from  .Marscill<;B  to  Genoa."  Mr.'i 
T.  Mot;grid[;v  has  aUo  pulilishod  a  itidiit  intcrovtin^  liook 
on  "  Horvwliug  Ant»  and  Trup-door  Spiden.  Nutiut  and 
OlMervations  on  their  Habits  and  Dwellings."  It  is  a  model 
ofeloBe  observation,  and  a  dinrmin^  illustration  of  the  way 
in  whioh  th«  lelmrv  of  invalidism  tn^iy  be  made  a  source  of 
delist  and  joy  hy  muruly  turning  to  niiture. 

Nearly  all  the   cuitivuLed   vegetation  of  the   Meatonu 
amphitheatre — Liomoii,   Olive,  and   Orang«-trees— est-cpt  I 
what  ia  found  on  the  narrow  seaboard,  grown  on  tumiwif, 
bailt,orexi»vutcd  on  till- ntdffof  the  mountain.  Thex- turmcc* 
have  be«n  produovd  by  the  lalH>ur  of  inany  ages.   The  moun* 
tains  and  billa  rtwi  too  rapidly  from  the  se«  level  for  even 
Olive-trcca  to  gnjw  without  this  preliminary  etep  heiag . 
adopted  to  iiupp»i't  untl  fumi  the  soil.     A  terrace  Is  a  Itdgtt' 
cut  in  thii  hUl  Nido.     Itie  clone  taken  out  of  the  hill  furtn* 
Um  wall,  the  earth  from  the  crevices,  the  broken  stones,  and 
a  little  oartli   brought   from  other  regions,  form  the  soil, 
'ilieM  tamwcs  arv  uxpousivu  to  make,  a»  tntieh  no,  I  have 
old,  oa  hnu»a ;  whereas  Uie  product  ia  prospective 


38  THE   RIVIKRA   ASU   MPINTONC, 

only.  T)i«  man  who  buildH  them  einke  li'm  capital  mnra  Tc 
hU  nliildren's  Wnefit  Dian  Tnr  liis  own.  If  he  plaDle  Ltrroon 
or  Ornn-fu-lrors  lie  itintit  alxo  tli)>  n  1itr{*i:  limk,  aiii)  tiu  atlc 
to  ffH  wulor  Id  fill  the  tuiili,  in  oidcr  to  irn|;iili'  tlitm  lU 
the  niiiili-ea  Htimiiier.  ll'  he  plants  Olive-trct-H  they  grow 
so  slowly  that  in  twenty  years  the  produce  k  6till  ine!^ 
i)ilicnnt.  The  nloncs,  oven,  hnve  to  erumUe  into  toil,  under 
the  itifliionce  of  inointiii-i-,  wind,  und  weather,  uixl  maim 
has  to  he  added,  hefure  the  tt-rruce  van  produce  the  greet 
crops  wliich  are  generully  planted  ou  those  occupied 
yoiinj;  Uwn. 

And  yt:t  th«  nioiinttiin  Hidm  nrexeiirred  with  fhi-Ke  ler- 
racce,  which  .iW  in  i^ui'eeseive  tiers,  and  are  the  (inuidiitiim 
of  the  a^icultiirsl  riches  of  Ihi!  country.  Tliey  are  the 
evidence,  in  stone,  of  the  thrift  and  induHtry  ol  poft  nenftr, 
rutioiiH — a  Kih-nt  hut  doiitii-nt  iKoniimcnt  of  the  ilonienti 
virtues  of  the  forelathers  of  the  preeent  race.  Many  nc 
terraces  have  been  budt  during  the  last  few  years,  nwin 
to  the  iucri'asing  prosperity  of  the  inhabitants. 

Many  new  tanUf  have  aUo  lieeii  eonstructcil.  Tliiir  foi 
mution  is  nllended  with  a  heavy  ex|M.'nditiirc, nit  I  know  to 
my  cost.  The  avails  have  to  he  maile  very  thieli  to  »u]>[iort 
tlip  preieurc  of  the  water  inside,  and  the  entire  lahn<.'  has  to  be 
cemt-ntcd  ecvoral  liiniv,  intenially,  with  hydiaiilie  cement, 
to  pievent  the  cNOipc  nf  the  water.  There  taukii  can  ln> 
tilled  at  tlic  end  ol  m  inter,  before  the  vprinK*  are  dividetl 
lielwcen  the  proprietors,  a  proceetlin>;  which  usuully  taken 
])]a(-e  in  May.  The  water  i>f  a  spring  is  as  valuuhlv-  as  the 
];ind,  and  in  owned,  s'>  many  houm  each  niek,  hy  the 
landed  prnprieturs.  Without  t^uch  a  li^ht  to  water  l,ii)d  IB 
all  hnt  in  mountain  localities  like  Urnnaldi.  This  village 
I  and  the  vcf^ciation  around  it,  <'w-e  Iheir  exUtenee  to  a  »prii»g 

I  thutt    appriipriated.     In  winter,  liy    immemorial  right,  the 

I  water  of  the  frpring  belongs  to  two  olive  millH  noikt-d 

I  water  power. 


'^ 


CHAPTEBII. 

OBOLOGY. 

MX  cMmtumom  at  raocamAST  rmoD— tbi  ninnruTic  at  mMf 
-    CAb  rtMioD-rtaa  ocaauaaajsw  uo  ina  eutsAi  nuucM^ 

nu  BCUIl  CATM^S— rU-HmoBIO  KAIt. 

AQKtCOL'tlJRAL  GX0I.OQT.  .  i 

■       i 
"  There  roDs  the  deep  where  grew  the  tree, 
0  earth,  what  cbangea  thon  bait  Men  1 
Thf^re  where  the  long  street  roars,  hnth  Wen 
The  stillneBB  of  the  central  sea. 
"  The  biUa  are  thadowa,  and  they  flow 

From  form  to  form,  and  nothing  utaedB ; 
They  melt  like  mist,  the  solid  lands, 
Like  cioiidB  they  shape  ihemaelvpfl,  and  go," 

TiNSYSON,  In  Memoriam,  ciiii. 

Tbr  geological  features  of  the  country  are  very  i  n  teres  tin  ff, 
and  much  may  be  observed  in  a  small  coinjiass.  The  hi<;h 
range  of  mountaiDH  which  form  the  amphitheatre  helongn 
to  the  loner  cretaceous  rocks,  nnd  is  composed  of  very  fine- 
grained limestone  full  of  minute  globular  animal  organisms. 
At  both  the  eastern  and  western  extremities  of  the  Men- 
tone  bay  this  formation  juts  out  into  the  sea.  At  the 
eastern  extremity,  the  road  to  Genou  is  cut  out  of  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  and  asceods  to  a  great  elevation,  croasiujf 
a  deep  ravine  in  this  limestone  by  a  bold  bridge,  the  Pont 
St.  Louis. 

A  short  distance  on  each  side  of  this  point  are  observed 
some  of  the  middle  and  upper  cretaceous  strata  which 
replace  the  upper  greeu  sund,  gault,  chalk,  marls,  and 
white  chalk  of  England.  According  to  my  learned  and 
deeply  regretted  triend,  the  late  Froi'easor  li.  D.  Bogers,  of 


4U 


THE   IUV1ER.\    AXD  MGN'TON'E. 


'34 


Glasgow  UDJvomty,  <vlii>  ivaa  nn  omament  to  liis  native 
OOunlV/r  the  Uiiiled  8tat«e  of  America,  tliey  form  the  tul- 
lowiiitf  strata: — a  friwip,  cotiHistiu;;  1st,  of  )>luc  fihxico, 
with  iiilvrcaUttKl  tliin  \nyvn  of  inicnivoiis  hkuIkIdik^  M>ine- 
limes  aboiimlint;  in  thu  nO'CiilloJ  gni-ii  Huiid,  cmioeDtly 
charaotcristio  of  the  middli*  cretiu:i.'i>tia  strata;  £nd,  ofa 
ooDrae,  uauiilly  very  thick  bciUlcd  BaiKhtoiie,  ollon  noiit^lo- 
iDL-ntic,  inti-rviilatcd,  in  tt«  u^tpir  part,  with  Itvii*  of  shule^ 
like  ihove  of  tin;  group  that  imderlicM  it. 

Ahove  these  upper  secmdarics  eommcue«  the  tertiar;, 
eyeteni  l>y  n  U'ell>(luvclo|ied  eocene  iiummiililie  tiniostone,  full 
of  iiummnliti'»,  M'hidi   in  evrtaiii  locnlitit^'f  is  ovoriuid  hy 
iir^iIWi-i>ii:<  Ktnttu  iitid  these  by  a  reinarkiibly  uontM  con-     . 
k'glamei'ate,  both  of  the  pieiooene  sffe.  ^fl 

The«c  eti-aln  nrc  observed  on  both  sides  of  the  toot  St.^ 
Louis,  ill  tlic  Mime  onlvr,  euslwurd  towards  the  town  of 
Ventiini{/;ha,  and  westward  towurda  Roecabruna,  at  the 
huso  of  tlie  Turbia  ascent.  At  both  theae  jtoitita  api>i;iir 
the  ()loioceiie  clays  and  con  (glomerate.  Thua  the  lower 
hill'',  which  occupy  the  f^ouud-plau,  as  it  were,  of  the 
Mentone  aniphitheatic,  represent  from  onst  l«  west,  dit- 
feretit  Htrata  hctweeu  thi-  lower  vrelnceoua  limi-Htoiiu  iiimI 
the  pleiocene  con  glome rute.  Thene  strata  are  alM>  repro- 
duct'il  in  the  same  ordur,  between  the  St,  Louis  roclca  and 
Yentimigliu,  near  which  the  tertiary  days  and  ooD^lome- 
Tttte  ar«  found  efiuully  well  ilcvelupci). 

The  age  and  (|:eutogicul  position  of  tlioac  pleioocnc  stnila 
are  indicated  by  the  fossils  they  contain.  My  friend, 
)lr.  Mug{p-id(;e,  who  has  devoted  much  time  and  thought 
10  the  geology  of  Una  district  of  the  Maritime  Alps,  hu 
found,  near  \'entimigliii,  many  focKils  in  the  oltiys  which 
underlie    the    eouglomerate,    chnracteriatie    of   the   Iat«r 

Silciocene  period      The  accompanying  chart,  which   Pro- 
MSor  ll'igori''  kindly  drew  np  for  this  work,  will  show  at  a 
gUnoe  the  above  details. 

The  conglomerate  is  roagniBcently  developed  Iwlh  at  the 
entruni^-e  to  the  Mentonian  amphitheatre,  on  the  Nioe  road, 
near  the  villajre  of  Koecubnina,  and  seven  miles  further  oa, 
at  YentJmiglia.  It  u,  indeed,  onii  of  the  most  interekting 
loaturcs  in  the  geology  ol  the  di«tricl.     The  deposit  is 


A 


O     BOItDIGHEKA. 


-  <»»  '"'   i3awBm«m  i*t  Bum  uoiuna  wz  ram 


Pl^lOCBVtf,' 


■  'TTtnrrcHir 


Ljionaf  C-rnLFb^  KTisntiitl  bmnt*  torpid. 


XoM 


rU 


'almarawlUBlul  mill  ute 


■h»  tb* 


__■  — Iwt  IbwIiHgwi*  Hm  i^mi  t^m,  IB  ii»  aulftwirtii  or  to- 

_    ...Ic^lMsl  It  >4>llH4cpcall  (fa  «j  lonyMulqaltl  t(rl*d-    BllBK 

""  "~       -  •     ^"   ihii™l>ii»  rtnia,  u   il*  uvt"  «oo»»  wi4  nwlor«n«  ••• 

irt^irrrmof  "f  tcmir  vidx  tnttfl  of  Ihi  dMrtdf  bowat^  Ih* 

T-.fn]  -,iiLjf   iTi  ^hich  Ihr  M*>  trfd  ahwrtikJ  In  ■ntmal  Hfe. 

I".,;    ,1,  iM>  »iii    'li.    i'';la<*l»  HbVllIMB  Wm   IMW  dFJ 


K-'flM*^    * 


Vrv" 


fft'SSTrf  B«^>Vhy  ««i'  -bifc  Mbi*^ 


CMkMari* 


m  of  itie  CilaoKiIe  iiUi  ■" 


1  hilhcrb)  4iM*n»d  «nut>nnita|| 

UMt  c*  nc  wDV V  «< 
iMemiplMa  ts  Ih*  b^ 

n  of  (h*  VoaiDlc 


iIt  *)lnMI  friiiiOm 


I 


t  ««n»t» 


Irtwn 


rri^'  '■ilnrmn.ilrfuHHMIIimlllMil^ 


>    H«ll    HI 


nlf   ■" 


[E«iii'*>M 


_       ._  .waMnr. 

•I  lbs  loKaoartdrif  Ml  4iirtif  « 


Wl4  i.i'.'- 


(JEOUXIY — URBTACEOUS  PKBIOD. 


41 


oompoecd  of  Urge  sitm»,  roaoded  by  wutvr  a»(3  fndioti, 
imbeddod  ilk  calcaroous  (gravel,  l'on^tittltill9  what  lia*  boon', 
turmnl  p«KldiD^-«tone,  and  is  very  itxti'iihive;  it  indicalea  a 
(Xinod  of  gient  uouvuUioii,  ii  pi-rJ<Hl  wlicn  tUv  wntore  of  thu 
MvdU«rraD«aii  were  prolmWy  tlirown  «iih  Mmtu;  viulcncw 
ott  thu  moiiDtiiiD  muifscs  ivhicli  Torm  the  Maritime  AlpH  iii 
tlio  fur  btV  liiK:kgn>iiQ<l.  Por)>hyry,  und  p^anit«  etoDee  of 
Urge  volume,  am  common  in  tliiii  i-oii^lomenitui,  nnd  thcso 
lurinntioiiH  «re  only  met  witb  at  a  coniii(Jenil>le  dixtAiico 
from  thf  ^I<Hlib>rTnneian  coa^t. 

TIk!  vilht,"!'  of  ntK-iMlitiiim  is  Imilt  on  lh«  conftlomcmtc, 
w)iii-li  uhm.-iii1s  mticli  hi^hur  on  tlie  Mt^  of  X\tv  iiiouiitiiiii 
■l'<n^  llie  Nice  road.  'IVadilion  sayx,  tliut  K^n-viibrutia  tva» 
in  formi-r  <luye  Minv  hvoluindred  feet  hitchor  uji  the  moun* 
tftin,  Ijut  tbat  n  ^^ntio  tiind-slip  oucurml.  niitl  tliiit  the 
bed  of  boulders  na  tvbloh  it  wiua  built  dirvc^ndcd  bodily  to 
its  pr«flent  poi-itioD.  I  much  doubt,  buwewr,  tUe  veracity 
of  Ihis  tbtt  popnkr  vi«w  as  to  the  orijjioal  habitat  of  the 
"  brown  roor'  vilbiKe- 

Tlio  various  i;volu';i<;al  fommtionfi  observed  in  the  limited 
MentvQinD  «mpUitheatri!  hiiiif;  homo  to  uk,  "  iu  wonl«  of 
stuiie,"  some  of  the  muet  int«r«ati»g  pbasee  through  which 
the  world  bos  \>asacd  during  recent  geological)  p>>noda.  The 
word  ruc^nt,  however,  muet  be  uiiduretoud  to  apply  to 
periods  M{)arut«<]  from  tu  by  countless  ago,  and  only 
recent  aa  comjiared  with  the  tin  fathomable  jwriudx  of  timd 
during  which  the  pninury  and  ^teoondary  strata  were  formed. 

The  lower  cr^-taceon«  litnestonc  rocks,  which  foi-m  the 
bnus  of  thv  Mentonian  uniphiUieutrc,  and  the  strata 
tbervtn  found  tliat  correHiKiml  (o  our  ohaik  or  upper  cre- 
taceous era,  repreuent  the  highest  or  most  tecoiit  t'orma- 
tioiia  of  the  secoutbiry  period  of  geology.  The  nummulitio 
liincstuno  whi(.-h  crowns  the  Ht.  Lonis  rocl>s,  and  wliieti  in 
being  quarried  for  building  purpoMN  where  Die  fui't  de^ 
■ovuding  eastern  bend  ocouDt,  belongs  lo  the  eocene  oi 
tertiary  formation. 

Tbe  nnmmulilic  formation  is  not  the  carlioBt  of  thu 
«ooeiui  i<rriod,  but  ocuupi4>«  a  middle  position.  At  Mcntone 
the  lower  eooene  formation  i*  not  rvprcNciited,  it  ia  a  hlunk ; 
oor  ore  tbe  upper  strata  of  tlie  euucnu  Byateni,  nor  any  of 


42 


THE  BIV1RIL\    AND   MRNTOXR 


Uie  miocrnc  They  ntx-  nil  w:iniint;  up  In  tlie  plMowne 
cUj'fl  whirh  underlie  the  «m[.'l'imiTato.  Al  Iwst  eticli  » 
Profi-sMor  Koyi'iH'  vic>v  of  tlie  Kt;"l*>gy  of  lliiit  dulricl,  the 
rwitlt  of  careful  aiiulv-«is  snij  of  many  exoursions  of  inquiry 
in  wliii'h  1  had  tiie  iilwuiiin;  of  his  relined  nnd  intell<ecliul 
oom|>anion>'liip,  and  ihe  opinion  of  so  nMc  b  t^-oloKiiit  mutt 
liavu  tiTViit  vii-ishl.  lie  considers,  a*  we  biivc  wen,  th« 
•halns  and  »imdKton<.i>,  ntiich  lie  east  mh)  vreiit  of  the 
St.  I^min  limeHtime,  to  Iw  memlx'rs  of  tlm  upper  or«tiioeo<iB 
family,  niii]  not  t«i'ti;iries,  a»  >•  giriMirully  EitppoBud. 


imiiiicLrraa. 
1,  2,  KnmiiinUtei  liDvigatu ;  3,  Section  of  do^  aliowuig  it*  celli. 

'tliere  ia  a  fentnre  of  frreat  inlen-»t  eonntcled  with  the 
tiummolitic  limmtone.  It  lx.>)ont;><,  most  iiiduliit^tilr,  to 
the  mid<ll<!  eoocne,  it  was  iiiKj^iettionnbly  formed  un(Ii.*r  rait 
water — for  the  niinimtditra  or  «oin-hke  slielis  which  it 
contains  are  the  chi-llt!  of^tilt  water  teMiio'se— and  yet  this 
loimntion  i*  found  liit;li!j'  dwdojiod  oii  tlie  Iii^h-.-Bt  and 
most  cenind  tH>Ttiona  of  the  AI|>m,  the  CiirjMithiims.  Ihe 
Pyrenees,  and  the  H  i  ma  lays  ft,  'Hiis  fact  alone  wmdd 
fltifflce  to  prove  that  thv»'e  Ftii{R'ndous  mountain  chains  ure 
of  comparatively  ri-ooiit  formnlion.  They  ootild  not  liare 
exist4-d  ut  thv  time  the  nummidittc  limv«1one  wan  forniinf; 
tinder  the  »ea,  at  a  time  when  Knjiland  was  alri-ady  jtvoplell 
W  various  quadrupeds,  and  miiftt  have  been  raised  uliove  the 
SMI  U'vvl  HuW<.-qiii.-nlly  Id  ihiit  i>oriod,  l>y  some  mighty  coD- 
Vidvion  of  naturi,'. 

Durini;  the  |>eriod  of  the  enilh's  liistory  whvn  tlic 
mimmulitic  limestone  wan  formed,  and  dnring  the  friih- 
N^tuent  or  miocene  [leriod,  the  c:limatv  of  Europe  wus  warm 


OEOLOOr — SOMMl'IJTIC   PERIOD. 


4.1 


'Or  mbtmpiml.  Hie  vegvtatioii  wn*  nil  t»tit  that  or  the 
tropics  or  Uie  |>re»«ot  day,  as  teelitieiJ  try  the  beds  of  lit;r)itfl 
or  wood  coal  b«^longtng  to  this  pL-riud.  which  nru  round  in 
llio»e  Mtnta.  Hit!  iinimalH  of  ihu  trrtiiiry  pi-iiud  wt-rc  the 
\^rg6  and  curious  [trecumon  uf  the  prAMinl  ruovs.  An  idea 
or  thMo  animals  may  he  gained  tiy  the  speciiavoa  thnt  have 
bwn  «o  cunoiinly  ruprodnci-d  in  the  Riirdcns  or  thu  Cryittul 
Polaoi  'I'hi-y  wctw  rvmiirkiilili'  for  Iheir  rhu  nnd  devi'lop- 
ment,  wliitih  indii^^tttd  luvMiivilile  cotiditiona  ol'  niaUirisI 
lil'e,  abundanco  of  fitod,  and  a  i^enial  ilimotij. 

"niOMMaiid  rivcra  woru  iileo  pt-opM  hy   cxnborunt  nnd 

(rraiitlioK  lift',  indii:ative  of  tropicul  warmth — Urjrn  Sharka, 

and  Iluy»,  Turtlitt,  Uulphiiio,  and  tiucb  like.     The  nnra- 

malitM,  or  coin-like  flhelU,  found  io  the  St.  Louis  quarry, 

'  were'  living   in  Uxindlcsij  ptofiieion  in  (ho  wurm  new.     So 

'  ulnindaiit    wrn>    thoy    in    Ihi;   ocuino    of   llu'W   <)iiyii   that 

'  ibotmnds  of  niilt^s  of  niinmiiilili(Hin>i'stitni>  »uvi'rul  litindred 

!  fovt  in  ili-plh,  all  hut  colirely  coni)>06(.-d  of  their  remains,  are 

tfamd  in  irome  n'gions  of  the  Old  World. 

^I^hcti,  nftvr  the  pk-iot-ene  period  a  dark  cloud  <.'jmc  over 

fln  eurth.     From  name  nnknuwn   cnut-o   itM    ti-mpt-rnturio 

lowered,  »n<l  the  ghKiiid  period  not  in.     IWl  of  Kurupe  ai)d 

A^ia    «ii1>?idi.-d   tiiiJiT  the  «m  aH  the  oliniale  buciimc  cold. 

GUciem  i.tIiiIiIkIu-iI  tlicmtn-lvi-s  on  \he  mcmiitainif  of  a  con- 

■ideraltlr  portion  uf  tvhut  icmuincil  ol  Ihe  Euriipe  of  to-day, 

and  on  other  legiom  non-  »u!inter)ri-d,  duivn  to  the  ^tlth 

puntllL-l  nf  latitude  (A},>aw^iK^.     The  tropical  ve^^tation  K*ve 

May  to  a  northern  flora.     The  tropical  animals  died  out  or 

rmi);rut«d  to  ttion:  iiotitheni  n-frioni!,  and  wirre  MipciiwduJ 

jAMvew  forms  of  lire  nion-  miiipted  to  a  bureul  itimati*. 

m^hc  multriiU  noild  went  on  as  before,  under  the  iiitluenoo 

'  or  llie  winic  lurts.     '1  he  rain,  the  IVoiit,  the  uir  (iiNintc^'ratctl 

the  rockx,  Ihi'  ilctriltut  ol  which  wa«  rirriird  by  riviileltf  and 

riven*  to  the  nea.     Theve  fm<pnent«,  large  and  small,  were 

rounded  and  polished  both  by  the  aclioii  of  the  uaters  that 

brought   tliem    from   tbe   beti^bts,  and    by   Ibe  action  of 

the  *tit»  to  which  Ihey  were  cutricd  ;  a«  u  the  gum:  with  tho 

•liingle  on  modern  nhonv.      Iliiiie  ]iortionM  of  the  tflacirrK, 

that  reachid  the  ^a  in  iniiny  phici-s,  were  broken  oll'durin)^ 

tUku  ebort  tnminer.     Covered   Milh  i-oeks,  stonee,  and  eaniij 


44 


THE  RIVIKRA  AND   MENTONE. 


wliioli  \hvy  liroiight  from  tlie  moiinlainjt,  io  the  ravines 
which  they  vn-TK  furmetl,  tUvy  Hiiiletl  out  to  sea.  Tens  of 
tbousauds  of  iuel-er^  now  sail  every  eummer  in  th«  sitma 
way,  into  tiic  Atlnutio  from  the  polar  rc;;ionH.  On  melting, 
tliuir  ear-jo  of  f;r«vel — for  of  such  is  frnvel — of  Iwnldcr*, 
B»d  of  liirjn!  roi.iki!,  u  now  dvpoititod,  nn  foinieriy,  »l  ll: 
bottom  of  u\e  ocean. 


M 


After  an  inL«lciilable  period  of  time  a  chiin^  a^uin  ea' 
over  our  )^Io1k>.  The  warmth  of  the  Hun  agtiin  renctied  iw, 
anil  t)K!  NiibinergH]  portionji  of  Kiir»|><!,  Atita,  and  Nurih 
America,  ajtiiin  ho^n  to  rise ;  oa  aW,  no  doubt,  did  re^'ions 
which  for  the  fint  time  appeared  abuv«  tbo  waters,  Tbi« 
rixe  apju-ars  to  have  bt-cn  f^aduol,  us  wdl  ii*  the  imprurc- 
meut  iu  climate  which  accompiiniod  it.  Thus,  by  stow 
degrees,  the  pi>ecent  state  of  the  e:.irth  was  nttainud.  ^ 

The  oonglomerato  formation  observed  at  Rucciibruna  *ilfl| 
Ventimigiia  extends  over  an  immenKO  area  between  tli<^' 
£<terel  luid  San  Ittimo,  nnd  on  the  itouth  eid«  of  the 
Maritime  AI|m.  In  name  regions,  also,  it  att^iiuM  extreme 
development.  Thus,  it  is  found  on  the  course  of  the  V»r 
and  of  the  VL'subie,  as  also  on  a  grent  part  of  llie  ri-;lit  ftde 
of  the  Roya  valley.  On  the  left  Kidi- it  principally  forms  the 
noun  lain  II UH  elevation  which  separates  the  Uoya  from  the 
valley  of  Iho  Nervia.  Above  Bordistheia,  al  the  Teeln  de 
Aipe,  aceordini:  to  Dr.  Nicpoe  of  Nice,  it  attainv  an  eleva- 
tion of  nl>ovG  uUOU  feet. 

Dr.  Niiipcc  bnK  rc-ccnUy  pnbtifhed  in  the  Ile«tie  de  Jiiet 
{\%1V)  a  series  of  interoslin^  articles  on  the  tertiary  lorma- 
tioUB,  and  on  the  oongloraeratea  of  the  dejHtrtnient  of  the 
jVlpi-s  Maritimea.  The  results  at  which  he  has  arrived 
corroborate  the  views  of  Profceaor  llneere,  as  (civeii  in  his 
chart,  and  *c^'m  «o  coniittent  with  our  geolojfical  know- 
ledi^,  and  with  reason,  that  I  think  I  cannot  do  be' 
than  reprodtiee  them. 

Tho  con^lomornti?s,  or  pudiliiig  stone,  were  formed  under 
the  tea  and  on  the  Hlion-  l)y  the  crushing  of  rocks  and  the 
diisliing  I'f  targe  maRMt^ii  of  water  ui^inst  the  rocky  shore, 
which  must  have  cliararteriied  the  frequent  and  terri" ' 
coovulsions  that  oocurred  during  the  lalur  tertiary  ^wTiod 

]n  tliis  region,  the  Apcnuine  Ny«t«m  and  the  Aljw  systei 


OEOUXjy— CONOLOM»aiATE  PEKIOP. 


•15 


of  moantain*  meet,  a»  it  n-ene,  tind  during  tlio  varlbqiinketi, 
rolcaaic  eruptions,  and  up)i«avtn^,  wlitoli  ntuxT^cd  cacli 
otW  lit  tiiut  period  pf  tlio  tfartli's  history,  tbis  vonlliut 
btftwwn  water  nod  nxk,  the  i^riuding  und  cniehinir  tluit 
took  plac«,  rnual  )iiiv«  ramltt-d  i»  ttii^  furuuilion  of  immi-nse 
SMMM  of  shini;le,  such  na  wo  now  see  at  Uritflil'iu,  Duvor, 
■nd  Dii'|>|>«.  Form<:<)  thus  under  wat«r,  Wl'ore  the  glooial 
period,  un  u]>heaval  at  the  end  i>f  the  pl«»oa'»c  i>])Och  raiseJ 
the  cani;Ioineral«B  to  their  ]>r«f«cnt  site,  where  they  biwajDM 
c«m«nt«d  hy  ulcarccfls  infiltrfttions. 

Some  g<-rili>)^ii>l<i  have  niAiataincil  Unit  thi'«e  coni^tome* 
ntt»  are  delUa  of  local  rivers  existing  or  "  dufuiicl."  But 
thtH  Dr.  Niepw  denies  on  convincing  grounds.  The  Siagii«, 
tJut  Viir,  the  K<>y>i,  the  Nurvtn,  must  havo  comi;  into  exis- 
tvocv  MiWe<)ueutly  to  tlio  formation  nnd  upht^iival  of  thu 
oongtofneriile.  Kiiisunn  were  rvnt  in  the  latter  during  tnili- 
BM]u«nt  e«rtliqaaL-c«,  volt^anic  eruptions,  nnd  upheavals,  nnd 
tltuA  wviu  fornietl  Uiv  prt^xenl  iii4»  of  th«(rc  rivers.  tVncca 
of  violent  volcanic  action  arc  round  all  over  Uiu  country, 
mich  «•  the  preaeiioe  of  volcanic  rocka  at  Ueaulicu,  Anlibe^, 
OuiDea,  U^«rel,  independently  of  the  upheavaU,  twiatings, 
and  oonvuleioni:,  (rverywhure  to  he  seen. 

I  nm  pl«a*rd  lo  find  that  Or.  Ni^pce  supports,  hy  hia 
rwearuhea  and  experience,  tho  opinion  1  expressed  in  former 
editions  as  to  tlic  presence  of  truces  of  glacial  action  in  the 
AI]>o«  MarilimM.  Thus  he  states  that  on  the  sides,  lioth  of 
the  Koya  and  of  the  Var,  e»iHraially  at  Colomas  in  the  Var 
vaiW,  he  has  found  well  marK«d  ioe  erosiona  nnd  polishings 
on  the  conglomeralo  itself.  This  fact  in  one  of  the  ur^u- 
motlto  on  whit-h  he  founds  the  opinion  that  the  furniatioD  of 
tlwoonghiuifrate,  nnd  of  the  i«ntA  in  it  wltiih  constitute  tho 
river  hedH,  were  ant«cedunt  to  the  glacial  period. 

Admitting  tlint  suvli  waa  the  Gikw,  tliu  hedn  of  theae 
rivt>n>,  es|N.-cially  that  of  the  Koyu,  alford  u  good  illustrolioD 
rif  the  way  ill  which  glacial  action  scooped  out  a  river 
vnlliry,  and  transformed  a  mere  titsnrv  or  rvnt  into  a  wide 
open  eatuary. 

I'ha  valley  of  the  Roya  has  all  the  cbaract eristics  of  a 
gWi«r-«x<uivate<t  viilh-y,  scconling  to  tin-  most  rccvnt 
writonau  Uiutuhject  (Hooker,  LycJI>  Au*tiid>.     It  la  very 


46 


THK    RIVIERA   ANI>   MKXTONE. 


w!J«  anil  very  di-e|>.  IL  apjiinm  much  more  proW'le  that 
it  vian  excavated  \>y  the  notioD  of  n  glncu-r,  Ibimi-d  by- 
millions  of  tuns  of  icu,  pliiwly  dvcuixliiit;  to  th«  Mtii,  uritid- 
iiijf  it«  way  tliruu;;]]  rocltK  «»d  motintiiins  thnii  Ity  the- 
wvariiiif  power  uf  tlie  small  river  that  now  o«!ii[>iea  it« 
centre.  UlaL-)<>rs  mifit  hnvc  eKtcndtH]  not  only  as  fur  m 
this  CAOJ't  ill  the  Mwliti;n«ii''iin  {4-'i*),  1>ul  ma>^i  m^rns  to 
the  south.  I  found  nmii  uiidi>ul>led  erideuoe  of  slaoiiil 
iictton,  mortiines  and  boulder  drilV,  in  the  bouth  of  Conioa, 
bt-lwcvn  SiirU'iic  niid  ItitniOtcio. 

It  in  niirlliy  of  nutior  tlmt  t)i(!  iiidK-iivnU  of  itiu  moun- 
tains, liilk,  nrnl  ridges  along  this  cunst  hav«  alt  tjkeu  place 
by  movements  iii  a  direction  from  south-ciist  t'>  norlli-wcst, 
and  rife  wrui — that  in,  alon^  a  line  fruin  th»  voluinio 
Gentr««  of  Ktna,  Strombnli,  and  Vesuvius,  to  the  estiitot 
volcanoes  of  Auvor^e,  in  Franco.  The  rocky  summits, 
th«  cn-«t«  of  the  atuny  wiivvs,  all  lii.-  at  rif^Ul  un^irx  to  t 
direction, 

AIUinu);h  there  are  no  igneous  roclcH  in  the  Menlonc 
aniphitU-tatre,  tliey  arc  ioimd  very  near,  as  wl>  hare  eiiid,  at 
liuiiuliLti,  Villcfnini;he,  AntilK',  and  in  the  iippur  port  of  Ihu 
vallry  of  the  Koya,  iind  tho  vvi<lunco  of  i^ni-outi  actioti  i« 
everywhere  seen.  In  some  iiistanees  the  strntiticutiou  uf 
the  lim<'«toiic  has  been  dcstroyod  hy  its  inlliicnce — in  mniiy 
th«  lim<%tone  him  been  vrystalli/A'd  in  piilohcs,  tninsibrmitl 
into  niurhle.  In  soini'  n-ciuns,  as  iil  ihe  (^p  Moulin,  it 
has  been  honeycombed,  fi«ttird  into  Iioles  and  cavities,  evi- 
dently by  till!  aelion  oOU'dm.  All  these  fiu-ts  are  evidence* 
of  the  teri'ible  cunvuUiohK  to  which  thin  rct>ion  of  l£uropM_ 
wae  snbjecteil  in  former  periods  of  the  earth's  history,  aiU^| 
especially  dnrini;  the  tertiary  era.  ^* 

Thns,  ill  thiii  little  Meiliti^^nitncan  bay,  do  vrc  find 
vanoiiH  important  phases  of  the  earth's  marvetloos  history 
stamped  in  indelible  tharaulers.  On  the  east  of  the 
amphitheatre  are  rucks,  the  nnniniulilie,  whinh  [loiiit  to 
guiniy  skies,  warm  sviia,  and  rxubeninl  life,  cxisltn[;  pre- 
vious even  tu  the  raising  of  the  muiii  chain  of  the  Muri- 
time  Al|Mt,  fur  conntless  ages.  On  the  weet  arc  con|;lo- 
merate  formations  which  |>r«eeded  a  jiwioil  of  polar  cold,  i>f 
gloom  and  barreuiicss,  that  also  existed  during  count 


UEOLOGV— GLACIAI-  PEIWOO. 


47 


_«.     Around  w  tlio  evidence  of  anotlier  era,  tUe  present; 
itM-iri]<!»ti[iv«l  tini|ii«stioiinb)y  to  ultimate  clinn;^. 

TliL-  |j;lju;iui  ]H'rioi)  winch  i  in  mediately  prevedvil  our  em 
a(ipctii-8  to  hiive  been  (feneml,  that  is,  to  Uav*  exl«ndi!d  lo 
loth  liotni^pheri'g.  iho  tropica  alone  eecnpin;;  its  di^Bstroiia 
intliiriii-i'.  Tin-  ;;r«vetH  and  gtiwicr-driUvd  boiilderit  utii 
n)ol(g  (vliiuh  tenlily  to  its  csistunoe,  Hre  fmtix)  in  Australia 
aiiij  fSuiith  America,  m  well  as  in  Asia,  Kiirojw,  and  Nortli 
Amin-icti.  Mwl  of  lite  np-olugielB  who  h^ta  studied  th« 
i;liidal  M-tiod  durin);  the  la»t  few  yrnn<  hiivo  Kimply  r<^- 
00i;nise<l  and  deHcHlied  it,  witlioul  uttt!m|it)0(t  lo  ei;ilaiTi 
it*  oiiiiKt-c.  ViiMoiis  attempts,  hoivever,  havti  l>een  niade  to 
tinntvol  lliio  {ji-iiluyica!  !iiy*t.;ry.  Thiis,  M .  Baltitiet,  «!'  tin; 
I'rriiirli  I  itxtiliitt-,  liitH  iidviino'd  an  iiHlroiioMiiual  vx  plan  tit  ion 
vlnrii  hnds  Tavuur  willi  many  lliiukera. 

Fixvd  dtiirc,  it  is  well  known,  are  buns,  com|inraUe  in 
■1)  tvapM^tji  to  tbc  i>un  wbicli  forms  tho  centre  of  onr 
plani'tary  system.  Now  «i)me  »tiirs  have  proved  "variulde" 
within  uiir  a^tiiinttmieiil  nini^n  of  time;  Hint  l>,  tliey  have 
>b<inu  witli  variuble  brilliancy  at  iivtervalii  ol' longer  and  < 
>l)art<T  diiralioii.  or  tliey  have  even  disappeiircnl  totnlly  f<jr 
a  linn*.  Some  well-knuwn  itam  in  nnoiont  euLilo'^uen  have 
di>u|)j>rared  entirely,  and  have  Dwver  returned  j  they  are 
U>^t  eUit*.  Lastly,  some  elars'  have  appe«ve<l  and  sliono 
wilEi  gnmi  bnlliattey  fur  u  short  timci  and  bav«  tliei)  <Ii»- 
appcjired  for  ever.  Such  wu  tho  Pilgrim  »\nt,  which 
up[ii-nred  in  157^,  shone  as  brilliautly  as  the  planet  Venus, 
lUid  uHer  a  your  dteapjieiired,  It  is  ^uppoMcd  that  the 
vurinble  ntar»i  aru  dimintvliod  in  (picndunr  or  tveii  (>W-iir»:d 
nt  timt-H  by  Ihe  vontiiet  of  matter  existing  iu  fjuK-e,  to 
wliieli  tho  nam«  of  "  cosmiu  elotids"  ha«  been  ^ven,  and 
which  in  neither  eomut  nor  planet.  If  our  «uii  i«  a  variable 
vtiir,  rxpoocil  to  the  (xriiKlicid  contact  of  such  cosmic 
cluiids,  which  would  intcrce)>t  \\\^i\.  and  h«al,  the  ({l^cial 
iwriod  is  eKplaiiivd,  and  its  ret«irn  at  somu  lime  or  other 
ui.-conieH  poktibic.  if  not  pmluilile. 

It  ha*  bi-^n  *\f^'4vii,\fi\  by  Colonel  Jamrn,  of  tile  Ordnance  ; 
Sonroy,  that  the  rlian^^es  of  the  earth's  oliuiale  in  geo*  ' 
lo^iml  ix-riods  may  Iw  duo  to  chnuties  in  tho  iiielinution  of 
the  t-urlir*  iixi#,  brought  about  by  allvralion*  in  the  crtut 


48 


THE  RIVIERA   AN1>  MENTONE. 


of  th«  onrtli  i^nidHiilly  ufft-rtius  tli«  ocntrc  of  gi*' 
C'^totiel  l>rnyK»n,  in  n  meniuir  read  befnra  th«  Avtroiiumical 
8oci«ty  in  IS7lt,  attrihutea  the  gUcUl  period  nnd  other 
chanf><.-8  ol' climate  on  the  rorth's  stirfacG  (;colo>riciilljr  evi- 
denced 1o  the  prec«**i«n  "f  tliu  cquino»«.  He  Ktmes,  ait  a 
r«stiU  of  hiH  n-*earcheti,  that  the  [lole  of  the  earth  traces  a 
curve  in  th«  heavetis  which  is  a  circle  round  a  point  8 
(]ot;ree»  From  the  pole  ol'  Ihi-  eiltpiic,  ami  thiit  thiN  nme 
curve  civeM  >n  ohlitjuity  of  upwai'd)'  of  3')  det;r>-i.-ai  f4>r  the 
date  ]U,0()0  B.C.  I'hiiit  the  date  of  the  hi^t  cbcial  period 
would  be  6xed,  and  it  must  have  extinded  over  the  whole 
of  th«  Xorlhcrn  hum  in ph ere,  down  to  the  5Uh  d(-{^rei,>  or 
latitude,  Ac<v>rdin|!  to  thiR  view.  Hie  pole  of  the  heavena 
traces  a  circle  in  the  heaveu§  in  3I,UU0  yeAra,  the  centre  of 
tills  circle  bein^r  a  point  6  dcgrecH  from  the  pole  of  tlie 
ecliptic. 

Prufi-wior  Rogets  tliinkn  that  at  the  end  of  the  picioeene 
period  the  land  which  separates  the  hend-water  of  the 
Baltic  from  the  Arctic  Ocean  was  probably  below  the  Iev«l 
of  tliu  Baltic.  Kvcn  now  it  n  only  a  IVw  hnndritl  (iect 
high,  nnd  uilhin  hi*tori<t  pi'rio(U  there  Ijiih  be^r^  a  con- 
tinuous) although  slight,  upheaval,  ll'such  was  the  case, 
the  passage  of  a  cold  aretic  current,  with  iceboi)^,  down 
tbo  Baltic,  iniiy  have  modified  the  eliniot«  of  Europe,  so  a* 
to  accomit  for  the  (^Inciul  iM-riixl,  which  the  Professor  con- 
siders to  h.ive  been  much  exa^^raU'd  by  recvnt  writ«r8. 
Similar  vicw«  have  been  fiiippnrt«-d  with  gn-et  talent  iu  a 
recent  work,  "  Fro»t  and  Kire,"  l>y  Mr.  John  Cnniphell. 

Thcae  explanations  are  men^ly  theoretical,  and  may  or 
Diay  not  be  correct.  The  fuel  Tcmnitis,  thai  the  canh  hns 
tinocrgone,  within  the  limit  of  g<.-<>logicul  investigatkins, 
various  tm)ioriant  chiingen  of  cliiiiule,  llial  have  reacted  on 
life,  such  as  are  exemptitied  in  the  Mcntonian  amphitheatre, 
and  that  these  chnn"CE  have  not  been  limited  to  the  uarm 
tertiary  and  ould  glacial  jwriodM.  Mr.  I'agc,  in  his  most 
interesting  work  on  "The  Past  and  Present  Life  of  the 
Globe,"  p.  lt<8,  states  hi«  belief  ihut  similar  warm  and 
cold  oycIcK  must  have  existed  duriu)*  the  earlier  periods  of 
the  earth's  existence.  If  he  im  right,  he  has  discovered  the 
Bxistcnce  of  a  law  which  must  have  repeatedly  changed  tlid 


CEOlXWV — THE  DOSE  CAVERNS. 


49 


I      obt 


eartli  and  ils  inliatiitant«,  and  whioh  it  may  be  prconmiid 
16  ili^«liD«*l  u^^iii  k»  clungo  it,  in  tJie  ordinurf  course  of 
nuluiv. 

IHio  water  whioh  fi*U§  on  the  Mentutie  mountttinx,  in 
Gniliti;;  itfl  way  to  Iho  tv*,  has  cxcai-at«d  de^-p  ravincti, 
utiirh  ■•x{kfM  Uiv  utructure  of  Uk-  tiTtinry  mi'Iik.  It  hnii 
lliiis  rortiKil  uiiii)erou»  narrow  vnltey^,  by  nliii^h  noM-sii  in 
obtiiiDed  lo  the  hi<;fh<.'r  tuotintniiis,  and  to  three  or  four 
ill!  pii'lurwqup  villain's  thvri-iii  Vuiilt.  Thi-ei-  ravines 
iiKtitnlr,  lui  no  nhull  sm,  an  iinpnrliiiit  fviiluiv  in  thi^ 
Mtiiitary  history  ol*  Mcnlone.  Owinjjf  to  the  biuskbone  of 
Itii*  district,  iw  it  wvnr,  being  limestone,  thu  water  is  evcry- 
wh<-n'  verjr  Uuni,  and  tJie  spring  eoiuidered  llio  pureKl  uxv 
l(»adcd  with  liuve.  TroaUil  with  oxulio  neid,  the  vAtor 
l>ives  o  inntit  ubunJatit  pTe4.'i]>itnt«,  eveit  wheu  taken  frrim 
spriniin  ii>  thi''  hiiikUUuii'  riKk",  1  hove  had  to  meet  this 
dillii-idly  by  pviiit;  dintillt^i  u  liter,  or  ruin  wiilxr,  or  niitd 
mineral  watvre,  tutnTahds.  liisoine  instanceB  the  hardness 
ol'  ibo  water  is  evidently  beneliiial,  an,  for  inalancCj  in 
(3ISI-8  of  eliruilie  diiurlKiin, 

In  tbr<  un»tnitilie<d  liineitonc  rocks  at  the  Pont  St.  Iiow'if 
lire  many  orevices  «nd  cavenis,  similar  to  those  which  so 
fi  V  ocriir  in  the  hanlvr  limentnne  nKkf  in  (jirm-nd. 

'1  '  irvti  and  eavenm  owe  tJictr  exitit«iiuw  to  varioiiH 

unui,  l-'onned  under  water,  and  during  tbrir  upheaval 
id  dryini;  eiibjctrted  to  pressure  and  heal,  the  limestone 
rmtis  liuvq  a  tvtidetiey  to  split  an<l  to  contract,  iin<l  thiM  tn 
ttmn  erevioes  und  cavities,  lite  presence  of  these  fii*siires 
■ml  caverns  is  utten  tlio  evidunt  result  of  tbo  dissolving; 
iclioii  ol  uater  iin  the  sohiblv  liinrjttoiie  rock,  and  of  thu 
iiifiltrutiims  of  subterrnuean  spriii)^  or  of  rivers  in  d^tye 
lie  by,  IV'  format  ion  of  the*"'  ciivcnis  on  a  lar^^c  sciile  is 
luitruled  in  the  HniCHtooo  MlnilA  of  l><;rhy»hiri',  of  ('■'inn> 
thia,  and  of  Kentucky.  Tlie  Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentuoky, 
tins  caverns  of  Adelsber^f,  in  Cariiithia,  and  the  Devil's 
Cavt!,  in  l>4irt)y«liire,  are  cited  ainon^ot  ihu  wondcis  of  the 
world. 

Un  the  shore,  at  thv  easteni  extremity  of  the  inniT  hay, 
h)  th«  "  ivd  rockn,"  ns  tiwy  are  called,  nro  acveral  gwid- 
ixed  oavca,  which   contain   in   gtval  abundance  r>rganto 


50 


TUE  RIVIERA   ANl»  WKNTON£. 


If  mains — tbe  lionrs  ol'  liir^e  and  smaU  mainmirers — imJ 
IxHlilei)  in  hanl  miiiil  nti<l  calcjiri'oiie  nwitur.  Tliit  organifi 
rcniiiinH  l\\\»  iiiilit'ilik'ii  v'ovi;)'  llic  tlnor  to  u  <l<!)itli  (>r  nianj 
I'lri.  iiiiil  arc  mls^J  »'it)i  tliv  Hint  wuiipuiis  nD<l  uloii^ils  utiil 
knives,  which  liavo  bXcitoil  »a  inucli  atU'iitioii  iliirin;;  li 
litsl  I'l-w  >'<»irsi  Inlirvlii^  lis  ihcy  do  to  tbv  cxi^Uiiivi- 
I'ui-cK  ut'mL-n  ill  fur  \iiic\i  |iiv-hUi<»n<.'  titnv». 

Thu  exist«ni;e  uf  flint  wo.ipbiis  mnont;  tbe  l>ones  fuiind  il 
the  Montonu  oiivcriis  wMii  first  Dotk'L-d,  1  Uvlicra,  lu  IHM 
W  M.  Korvl,  II  SwiMi  g«(>1iigiiil.  He  |>ubli*hv<t,  in  ISBO,  n 
uu'inoir,*  ill  which  hu  g\vv»  \h«  iMiilt  of  his  rescurchvH. 
M.  I'orL'rs  iiive«tij{ntionB  were  prindiMlly  mudv  in  the  third 
«n-l  fujirlh  cuvvf,  coiiiiling  frutn  Akutiini.*.  l\v  fciiml  ii 
^lYiiL  ijuniitity  of  brukitti  buiii'tt,  whclls,  leiiiaiiiii  of  <!ruHtiiC«W, 
Hi>d  ineL-es  of  chartoal.  A1od;{  with  th*»e  lie  disoovure*! 
miiny  rrutrnu-'tils  mid  spHtitui>i  nt'  llint.  Mid  hIso  many  iirrow 
mid  InncL*  bt,WK,  itiK'nr  |iuiiit^,  und  tnaDguUr  pivce*  of  tUut, 
uvidviitly  inti-iided  for  knives.  Tlie  bones belonned  tostaga, 
iiht^ei),  liuiiiB,  lioKes,  tvolvch,  dogs,  cats,  nil'hits.  a  Iar;;B 
carnivorous  aniinid,  iind  onolo  the  Boe  primi^uniiis,  a  lar>^ 
liiitl  which  hcl<}n;>)i  to  the  gliiciiil  )>i^ri[>tl. 

During  ihu  winter  of  IS4i2  Mr.  .Mb)^rid}fe  <wntini: 
these  researches,  wilU  greflt  can-,  in  tlie  wcouu  cavern,  und 
unions  gu-ut  iiuiFticti  o\'  hunvH  oIko  found  the  Hint  iiinlru- 
tnetil*  above  cimmerttt^d,  Rome  uf  them  in  a  ixfrfcot  statu. 
Pieces  of  charcoal  were  likewise  found  mixed  with  them. 

1'hv  existence  of  tlic«c  bone  caves  at  Mentone,  aloDf^ 
nitb  the  geolcgicuil  fcaliirM  of  thi-  diHtvi>.'t,  draws  attention' 
to  one  of  the  most  iiiterwting  and  dilliLiilt  g^olopciil  qiie^- 
tiow*  of  the  day.  Th»wq  flint  innininiciiid  wcnj  evidently 
niiidc  by  men,  an<i  l>y  men  to  whom  the  liret  duwn  of  himiuti 
eivilixAlion  was  unknown,  who  were  living  iis  savages  now 
live  in  Aii&lmliu.  They  knew  bow  to  make  firrM,  as  tli« 
pieivB  of  chiireoiil  nhow.  They  lived  evidently  in  the  cuvt 
and  (levLruyed  the  aiiinuds,  the  hones  of  u  hicb  form  the  Hod, 
by  means  of  the  flint  weapons^  feeding;  on  iheir  llesb.  Tbc 
qiH'ation  is,  wlion  did  they  live? 


*  "  KMice  Rur  le*  InxtrBniMilJi  rn  Silvx  <1  In  Oiivninntit  troiiv^a 
dani  Im  Cavrmcn  h  Ucnton."    Alin'ci.    IbOtk 


GEOLOGY — THE  BONE   CAVEBN8.  51 

These  bone  caves  have  l>een  found  all  over  the  world, 
aud,  latterly,  in  nriRny,  us  at  Mentone,  the  bones  of  animals 
have  been  found  mixed  with  flint  instruments.  That  the 
latter  have  been  mude  by  the  hand  of  man  appears  ratiou- 
ally  undeniable,  and  the  first  conclusion  was  that  these 
Ravage  men  must  have  lived  in  the  early  historic  periods ; 
for  the  Celts  and  early  Gauls  used  flint  and  stone  weapons 
and  utensils. 

A  minute  inveeti^tion  of  the  facts,  however,  soon  proved 
that  such  could  not  he  the  case.  Firstly,  these  cave  flint 
utensils  are  quite  different  to  those  used  by  the  Celts  and 
the  early  tribes  of  the  Old  and  New  World.  Secondly,  they 
have  been  found  in  some  of  the  caves  mixed  up  with  the 
bones  of  animals  existing  long  before  the  present  era,  in 
geological  epochs  before,  during,  and  after  the  glacial 
period. 

Thus,  in  a  cavern  at  Kirkdale,  in  Yorkshire,  have  )}een 
found  the  teeth  of  two  or  three  hundred  hyenof.  In  this, 
and  in  that  of  Brixham,  in  Devonshire,  and  in  other  similar 
caverns,  have  been  also  found  in  abuudancc  the  remaini^  of 
otlitT  races  either  totally  extinct  or  extinct  in  these  climates, 
such  as  the  Tiger,  the  Bear,  the  Mammolh,  the  Tichorrliine 
flliinoceros,  the  Hippopotamus,  and  the  Irish  Elk.  These 
are  races  that  existed  in  tiie  warm  pleiocene  epoch,  when 
the  climate  of  Europe  was  subtropical,  beibrc  the  subsidence 
ol'  tonlinciits  and  tlic  formation  of  the  glaciers  that  gave 
rise  to  the  boulder  and  gravel  drift  above  described. 

These  races  appear  to  have  been  gradually  or  snddenly 
destroyed,  or  driven  simtli  by  the  glacial  change.  I  say 
suddenly,  for  in  some  ]iarts  of  the  world  the  chimge  seems 
to  have  been  very  abrupt  A  Miimmoth,  in  the  tjesli,  was 
dug  out  of  the  Irozeii  shores  of  the  Li'na,  in  the  north  of 
Af^ia,  some  few  years  ago.  Its  actual  flesh  was  eaten  by 
dogs,  alter  having  been  ihus  preserved  probably  for  tens  ot 
thou.'sands  of  years,  and  tlie  skeleton  and  hair  adorn  the 
iluseum  of  St.  Petersburg.  The  skeletons  of  Irish  Elks 
have  i>een  found  iti  the  same  regions,  buried  in  the  frozen 
soil,  erect,  with  their  head  tiirown  back,  as  il  they  had 
been  suddenly  overpowered,  sulfoeated  by  a  snow  storm, 
aud  over»'bclmed    with  mud  and  drift.     The  skeletons  of 


52 


THE  mvitKA   ANI>  MESTOSB, 


M»tnniiilliK  nre  foiintl  in  such  quiiiititiev,  preserved  m  tlti 
riozun  toil  of  llie  iioilli  ol'  Asia,  liint  ("or  CoDluriw  llicri>  !i 
Wcu  n  Wifk  trade  in  tbe  ivury  of  whivti  llieir  tiii>)iM  u 
formtd. 

ir  ilie  ►ilfx  weapons  and  utensils  had  only  bc«n  foimil 
n1on;{  with  the  bonee  ot*  i-stiiict  niiimals  lu  uivi-e,  doiihts 
tuiKtit  Iinvv  liivR  rniM-d  lis  to  llirir  xhouing  tho  triK't)  ol 
vany  ravi-*  <>!'  nu-n  uliu  lived  wlii-n  lliustt  uuiinitis  lived; 
chasHil  und  dwiti-oved  tlieiu.  Tliey  might  have  liti-n  Itft  i 
tlioi^e  cjivi-s  by  men  wlio  inlialiitod  tViom  lit  a  Utirr  iionui 
But  Un-rt-  i*  ollior  t-viiiciiw. 

They  hjive  heun  f'uuiid  togetUi-r  in  the  open,  in   Kids  of 
gmwl  and  drilt,  llif  ;>eoli>jrical  imtitjuilir  nixi  diitu  of  u  hicli 
lire  tlrtiifd  l>y  in>  (;«ti^!otpHt.     Indvcij,  il  ih  in  unoh  a  hi'd  al 
Aniioni'thiiltlieljuiit3>urcxlinctaniiiial>iaii(l  Biiit  nexpoui 
the  li«ce  of  DiaD — were  Bret  disgovored,  liy  M.  Boucher  de 
PcrMiM,  in  iho  ycnr  IciO.     Hi»  first  Kttitcmcntti  wtv  mut 
witi)  iiidUri'Trme,  il'  not  dJklx'ltfr;  but  tbv  ini^^t  thiiroti-^b 
nnd  (.■ongticntidiiit  exMininiilioii  uY  the  I'Mcts  hi*  imnuunocst, 
on  lUi;  piirt  ol*  nil  thu  teiiditi;;  ^eulo^ti&tfi  of  the  <\»y,  \iot\i 
Engtifh  tind  (.-oiitincnlii),  luw  liitlerly  led  ti>  their  Bcccplanoa^H 
and  fimrirnnitiuu.  V 

If  men  il)  H  HiiVH^  stnte  existed  before  and  duriiig;  ihe 
glaciiil  period,  alun^  with  riices  of  unimids  long  extiMol, 
and  it'  Uiesu  wi-rc  tli«  itt<-n  wlio  miidt;  the  varione  tlinl 
wcagions  and  ntcneila  liitind  in  the  Mentuno  eaves,  tlic  pre- 
Eiiniplion  il*  that  lln^  tfiK-cs  of  liabiiatioii  which  th«e  eavM 

E resent  belong  to  this  fur  diMant  period  of  the  i-nrth's 
istory.  The  St.  Louis  limestone  rucks,  in  nhivh  thceavcM 
exii^t,  long  covered  hy  the  tat,  were  probably  raised  fntin 
itK  lw#oin  in  tinie  t<i  witness  all  the  ennngeE  thst  preceded 
and  followed  the  glacial  period,  and  the  caves  thi-insclvex 
may  have  been  inhabited  btjii:ire  the  conglumeiate  of  Uueca* 
]irnnn  wn*  fonni-d. 

In  Older  lu  clear  up  the  geologiea]  history  of  the  Men- 
tone  cave  deposits,  a  mus^eum  has  been  formed  in  the  lown 
li;,Il  ol  Mi--iit()iii",  wbcrc  llii-  bcnii-K  and  Hint  utensils  found 
ill  tli*m  by  geologists  ure  to  be  coUeeled  for  investigation, 
along  with  nil  other  specimens  pertuiniiig  to  the  natural 
hi-ttwry  ol  Ibe  district.     Future  intiuirvntj  iu  their  resca 


OFKH/XIY — PKK-HI.STOIIK.-  MAN. 


53 


Tor  flint  vreiipnita  and  utetiiiilii,  will  fJntl   tlie  accomninyint; 
LwoodoiU  viiI>iiiIiIl-.    It  is  r«pnKluoeil  from  Mr,  Pngv's  work, 


rKB-iiiaTOHJc  run  ismHotiKXTt. 

l.S.  from  Valbjr  orSomnw;  S.  4,  5,  Rnglitnili  6.7.6.  Canada; 
9,  I'},  SeauAiaaria. 

Ilaviii'*  wiiil  HO  mncli  on  Ihe  preaiimiid  pre-liistoric  race 
lit  RU-ii,  I  iiiuKt  l>"t  lenv«  tlic  Bubj«cl.  Ul'W,  pcrliaps,  lu 
mnnjr,  vritlumt  n>in»rkiii);,  lliat  these  inv-fBtiifiitions  have 
Inmi  MUcei'tLiI  t>y  auny  of  tliv  mty»i  emitK-iit  (jtylo^cal 
lL(ltvi5n.  Il  IB  iiilt,  huml)!}',  llial  what  is  true  viaritiol  lie 
C'liilnrv  i'l  8vri|>1iir(i,  nltliuiit'l)  we  mny  not  l>o  ah\o  nnie  to 
n-n  Itit;  tinli,  llii-  i!'in<Mril«ni'i',  iimi  lliat  jjcolo;;}-  may  L-onliiiii« 
ita  n.'Niiiicliii(  iiiti)  ihi;  [iitut  Iii<it<iry  ot  (liu  •.nrlli.  iind  uv«n 
ol"  th«i  Iiiutiuii  raci*,  without  Uiir  nr  *i;riiiilr.  The  foiigor- 
(Liit<.-e  tvill  moft  assurifdly  come,  i  wmil'l  iiIho  a<l(l  I  lull  up 
tu  tho  fnweiiL  tiinu  tiivrc  lias  bucn  nu  tlini-oviTV  of  liuiniiii 
boDw  under  ttuch  drciiinntimtivs  ss  to  pruvont  dmiU  or 
cavil,  >lt)ioii);h  several  iirvHumvd  diwivorie^  Iiavi^  Wen 
liri»i|;ht  rotwunl.  Tliia  is,  al  presi-iit,  one  of  tlie  difKcuU.ii'M 
til'  ihi-  (|iK.-iti<iu.  .Si-iciitiiic  men,  however,  iiru  on  llic  louk- 
uul,  iinil  iiKpi-til   from  day  to  day  to  diMH>vur  tlivin.     Wo 


54 


THE  RIVIKRA   AND   IIKNTOKE. 


may,  tlierefore,  join  in  the  search  at  >Ientoni>,  and  perliai 
Hiiu  this  solution  to  thU  inyiit«r}',  bo  nnxiomly  tletired. 

Tilt!  itbovi-  ]>!triiL;rA{ili  u|>[H.Mri.Hl  in  th<t  xoooiid  eUilion  of 
thin  work  in  I'^tli.  It  vtaa  h  Uiud  uf  |)n'[>Iieuy.  In  Marcli, 
Ihlif  .M.  Kivi^re,  a  dialin;jiiiBhed  French  (^ilo^ist,  Jis- 
covL-n-(l  a  woll-preeei'vci]  skvlirton,  U-lonj^iii};,  it  is  gonvrally 
uinniik-rtid,  to  pre-lii»tvric  times.  | 

M.  Ilivif^ru  luul  liucn  ivorkitig  Tor  aeveral  wtnt«r8  at  tlie 
Mirntone  caves  under  tlie  anBpices  of  the  Frenoh  Govem- 
invnl,  and  had  I'unnd  liuncs  iinil  instriinK-ntMof  iMnc  and 
sili-x,  l>nt  no  hnmnn  rcmitin*.  Hi  fvould  never,  in  all  ]>ru* 
bttbilit)',  huvi?  finnid  the  losail  man  had  it  not  kiieu  for  an: 
accidentul  uircumnt^nc;. 

In  pnssin;;  alon^  the  coast  the  railway  tu  GunvM 
through  a  (k-q>  cultini;  iil  tho  Immi:  of  thd  red  nteks,  i. 
t'ruiit  ut'  the  bone  <uivt»ni9.  Thia  uutlin;;  b  about  twenty^ 
one  fiwt  de<!tt,  in  Tront  ui'  thu  fourth  CAV«rn.  M.  Hivi^re 
iiiid,  us  he  tlioU|^ht,  exhausted  thJe  vnvvni  in  his  prvviuiu 
arduous  researvhes,  and  had  t^ivcn  up  nil  itU-n  of  |iiireuiii^ 
them.  The  cutlinij,  hnwovcr,  rev<Mk-i|  dvqier  trvii»ura, 
so  he  »et  t.'  work  with  renewed  vi)j;itur.  lU-  hud  been  ex- 
cavating threu  miintha,  pjiNiing  the  soil  raised  thron}|;h  a 
hiuve,  and  had  reaL-hed  a  dirpth  uf  about  ninelvuii  feet  belu>V 
the  (Urfiiw,  when  he  came  upon  the  akeh'tnii. 

I  I'urefully  examined    it  the  itVl\i  of  March,  throo  doyH 
aftor  the  tii>>t  di^cuvi-ry,  when  it  was  still  two-tliirds  em- 
bcildud  in  the  cnmpuct  soil  of  tlic  <-ave,  iilong  with  I'rolbRsor 
Hn^hcii  lli-iinett,  uf  Kiliiibiirgli,   and    thi!  latu    Pr.  John 
Martin,  lit'  I'oriKniuuth,  an  eminent  dcntiitt.     M.   Kivi^ii}^^ 
was  oblig«d  to  scrape  and  separate  the  soil  from  the  skeleaj^^ 
Ion  with  the  utmost  care.      This  labour  took    him  abovu  a     ^ 
week.  »-o  iinxions  was  he  to  do  no  injury  to  the  hones.    The 
i<kelr(on,  that  of  n  niiin  uliove  *ix  fet^t   in  h  'ight,  wax  in  a 
recuuib<^nt,  Mem i-eur veil  nt.ite,  as  in  sleep  or  repose.     Death 
must  have  coine  suddenly  durin^f  sleep,  or  "juietty  during 
rvpos>;.     There  had  evidt-nUy  been  a  rude  kinil  of  inhuma- 
tion, for  Iheix;  wure  Hume  hir-^v  *loneK  hohind  and  round  the 
liewad,  and  on  and  around  tliv  nkdetoa  was  ftfunil  a  metallio 
j)owdiT,  appufeiitly   iron.     The  i-aleareous  earth  of  iJieM 


OIHIIjOUV — THE  POKIL  MAS. 


55 


rockt  cADtAinti  o  iv>n«i(lcnbK>  amotmt  of  iron,  so  much  so 
ttint  a  Tracture  mmid  reddffo*  t>y  oxi(!»ti<>ii  of  On-  it^ii.  The 
iron  Imd  «videollv  helped  to  (irraerw  and  foHsilixo  tint  nVcliv 
ton.  Still  the  ixxiy  cirurty  Iny  n-here  it  had  died,  and  in 
tlie  attitude  in  which  death  hiu)  overtaken  it,  under  the 
shelter  of  the  cavern,  the  feet  towur^U  it»  rcciw«w,  the  hrad 
to  the  untnnee. 


ranit  t  rNortwaArii  or  laK  mtotL  »i.st  Liriau  **  nvsa  in  tue 

KKMVKI!  (4VE. 

lite  skeleton  is  that  or  a  tall  man,  all  titit  peilei:!,  baviii|if 
1)11  nwrml'luncf  whiitover  lu  that  of  the  oran(7>onUa^  or  of 
ativ  moMkuy.  Tli«  nkiill  in  elongated,  rery  eonvitx  Rupcriorly, 
ihiliii'jiliatH- ;  lei-th  all  preitent  in  the  uppi:r  maxillary,  which 
wja  eiitiri^ly  awn.  Tlie  lower  inaxilUry  was  only  half 
cxpottnl,  hut  the  teeth  in  that  half  WL-re  all  perfect.  The 
RiuUra  were  nvrii  Hat,  an  if,  laid  Dr.  Martin,  by  the  triiurj- 
tiun  of  hard  foful.  The  urbitiil  euvttieti  ^vcrv  very  iweiiiiir, 
iliiri-tent  in  their  length  and  diameter  froni  tlioite  iti  any 
kmnvn  roue  of  men,  and  rather  oimilar  U>  those  of  the  skrJI 


5<! 


TIU:   RIVIERA    AM)   MKNTONK. 


Nx.    I    fuiiiiO  III  ('ro-Mngiiui),  ill  IViigiird,  in    186H.     Mi 
Itivitsiv  tUi»ka  this    )H-ciiluirity  al»iii,>  may  int|>ly  a  pre- 
liiMnric  Wt  t}'|io  of  m:iu.     'i'bc  oiilj'  cnpons  by  which  w«  ' 
(-JIM  |iiiKKilily  (k-ti-rmiiiu  llii;  period  ut  wliicli  thiti  fi«^il  nianJ 
vsiHti'il,  U  Ihc  ><tu<ly  of  t1i«'  luiHilK  iiiitl  iii^triimfiils   fontid'l 
;il)'ive,  aruiitiil,  iiud  Iti-low  tlii>  ski'Ietoit.     In  M.   Ilivicre'g" 
]'iiMi*lipil  inemi>ir  (Uaillicre,  Paris,  ls74)  he  givvg(ii'[iarjU'lv 
iIr-  list  <if  tlif  tiiiiim  foiinil   in  Ihu  twi-iity-om;  feel  of  full. 
uljnvL'  the  bikoleton,  alid  thu  !itil  of  tlif  likutia  Coniii]  irnmc 
itidluly  in  contact  with  tho  skfletuD,  around,  nnd  immv* 
(ImU'ly  Wlow,     The  two  lii-ls  ore  as  foilnw-A  : — 

PAt'KA  or  TIIK  CATS  8UtL  AUUVR  TIIK  l-OKSII.  HAM. 

Carnii'ora. — UrsHs  siit'litiis,  Ursiis  nrutofi,  Ilywna  spvt 
Vc\\»  Kjii'IaM,  O-niK  lii|>iii',  KriniieiniK  KtirupiL-ii!:. 

pai-hffiiriiMs.- — Uli iiiixM'niii.  Kcjuiim  cuiui)]u«,  Sua  Miiors. 

I<ii<ienf\a, — Lopus  cuii  11.-1)1119. 

UnmiuiHlia. —  IJoH  priiiiii^tiius,  CVi'viifi  bIccb,  C.  eleplius, 
C,  tanndciisis,  (.",  i-oi>ioiiniis  (?),  C,  capreohis,  Cai'ia  primi> 
gt-niii,  AutfK']ii;  nipicuiird. 

Mallit*ra. — Tilt  shwlU  ol'  tni.lUifccii  weri;  vi-ry  niinieroua,; 
unil  llie  tn')lhi»(Ui  that  iuh^itiited  them  no  doubt  served  M' 
food  tbr  the  men  who  hvi'd  m  thi'  t-nvc.  Sumu  of  there 
fln*II»  were  t'ntiiX",  pcmi-  were  broken.  Some  were  pcrfo- 
riitt'il,  and  wi^re  pr»)mbK  umhI  lur  pcrstonul  uruunient.  The 
inolbisca  wen?  both  marine  and  terrfelrinl. 


fk\lV^   ViiV>,0   lUUKUMTKLV    AIIOVK,   AltOnKP,   AND   llklAW] 
TIIK    SKt.lJn'DK. 

Ilvienii  R[>elien,  Felis  speliea,  V.  anlitpin,  K.  lynx,  V.  cattU'J 
Urxns  s|ielwtis,  U,  tircloc,  Caiiis  hipns,  C,  vulpen,  Uliinocx-T 
tii'horhiniiH,  ICqiius  ciibnllus,  S;ie  eun^b,    Lt'piiM   cnnicLihiA 
Uiis  primi-fi-iiiiiK,  (Vtvuh  uIci.'«,  C.  cU-jihiw,   (^ipra  primi* 
jfi'tiiii. 

The  inBlriimenla  found  by  M.  Riviirc  in  this  cavern  wer 
ill  biiiH-,  in  detT-hnru,  or  in  stone,  or  in  eilex  hf<va  the  ohall 
t'»riuiilion  wiiieh  exi»l<i  in  ihu  iiei^hbunrhood.     Thoeu 
hone  ami  hnru  were  arrows,  painted  inKtruniunt",  needle 
.aitd  iuetruiiiente  uppnrenlly  destined  lu  \\.\\wi\  ihe  threiic 


OEouKiY — rni:  FOMHir.  man. 


at 


nl'mwu  skins.     Amfin-f  tht^m  was  oiiu  lluil  iipjioant  U>  havn 

llNjvn  B  camniati<IiT'8  hiiton  or  etair.    Tiie  oUtue  niul  silex 

Finxl mmoiiU  ivcre  (iiuitJ  I>y  tliu  tlviiu.in<l,  i(  IVii^jment-i  omj 

[•ciiti'*  itrc  Ig    be  t-i'>iiiitv(l.      Movt  v/ere  well  [HVKri'VOil,  iiti<l 

Lniuiiy  i-tilin-.     The  roinmuiK-:«l  lurm*  wifiv  Mi-apL-io.     Tliuy 

w<*r<!  niiide  nf  sik-s  frxm  the  chalk,  or  of  h-j.iU'.     They  were 

i\'>i^lily  u-»rk<.-<l,  itnd  appciir  tu  hflmi-;  t»  thL>  iiliJirFil-Knowii 

ntnii«  piTtwl,  iht  OIK  ill  n-liivli  ttixlriitncnU  in  buuc  are  rurc 

uid  th<>«c  ill  iilvnn  iniK'h  man  mimortius. 

TIk'  nkiill  of  the  Bkeloton  wiib  (iniaRit-ntui)  liy  Mediterni- 

ti«iiii  EhirlU,  the  Naftiii  or  Cycl<»iii»«u  iifiiloii.     Tik-it  weru 

,  mIwi  (in  it  Iwi-iity-twu  caiiino  t«i'tli  of  thi*  CorvuH.     AL  t.liv 

'  siilu  III'  the  )ti-a<)  was  a  |iotiianl,  or  juvehii,  (iiatlu  out  ol'  lliv 

ruiltiis  iit  «  dcLT,     ttehiiid  the  head  werv  two  triangular 

IjIai]l-«  in  Eiliic. 

M.  Rivicrv  hiu  shown  great  rvierve  in  hin  tnenioir  as  to 
hJH  opinion  rxvpL-ctiii,;  tJie  gfiolojicul  iturioi]  in  which  hia 
^JowiJ  rami  lived.  At  p.  HH,  however,  he  aays :  "  Ainoii^ 
the  variiius  aninutti  th«l  1  bave  enxntenited,  four  more 
i.-«Iieri.illy,  n'lii<:)i  I  hnii  iilrMuly  foiiiKl  at  h  hi;;1iei-  elevation 
in  tb«  '■ami!  ciivern,  \>y  their  iirewnee  iiloite,  near  tin-  >kele- 
ton — ihi'  grejl  t'eii*.  or  f^e/ia  upela,  tlie  Vf»i»  iiielnita,  the 
tlififHi*  ti*c(rt'i,  the  Riimitrrut — prove  the  ^freiit  antiigiiity 
of  the  )]auiis<«  Mnwfi  Mm.  I  therefore  think  Lhnt  1  am 
wun-aiil«l  ill  oiiu<iilering  him  u  4!ont«ni|Kirary  of  the  vx- 
tiu<-t  ■ttiiiial  ii)iinriii(,  an  Wloi);;iii^  to  ttio  paleolilkio 
rpocli." 

M.  Riviere  luiri  recently  ili^covered  nnothtrr  linmiii)  iitliilb 
«lirlctoi),  hel'W  the  tir»t,  Init  iiol  in  meh  goo.l  llr^■H■^va- 
lion  I  aa  hImi  that  of  a  chihl.  Itkit))  ptuenl  the  lutuc  cha- 
ravteriat  icH  at  to  akiill  and  ^eiieial  eon  formation  us  the  lirst, 
and  vvi^lently  beloo;;  to  the  Hume  r.ice. 

Ill  Sir  Cliiirleo  livell'H  vrork.  "  Ttie  Geologicnt  Kvi(Ience« 
nfthe  Anti<]iiity  of  Man,"  4ili  edition,  IS7:t,  ttio  dideoi-ery 
of  Uiiii  Hkeletun  U  deacrilx-il,  )>.  i\\-t\.  Sir  Cliarles  ooii- 
cliide!)  ill  the  fullowitig  word*  :— "  .  .  .  from  the  manner 
in  ivliicli  hi*  remitin*  were  atta-tciatei)  with  niipoliKh'-il 
im|>liiini*utii  und  tlt«  li-inrn  of  extinet  unimiilK,  it  *w.<\w  not. 
itti|ii*ot»ble  lliiit  M.  Kivirre  him  Immght  to  li;fhl  a  com* 
plute  liuman  skeleton  of  Rile»Ut)iia  age."      lu  the  Pruliuw, 


58 


THE   niVIERA    AND   MENTONE. 


pii^  vii.,  ho  *iiyit  ..."  I  linvc  aUu  given  a  t]e«oriptioii  ot 
a  skcli^luLi  fimmi  bv  M.  Riviere  in  a  cave  at  Mcntone, 
which,  from  the  unpolished  implemenU  and  exttitct  aitimala 
iiKfiociatcil  Willi  it,  i  am  im-lincd  to  (.■oiwidur  at  of  I'liUiw 
liLhic  u;^.  Since  th<!  KhMrts  went  printtnl,  ii  second  skelelAD 
has  been  bnmght  lo  hght  by  M.  Uivitre  in  a  nci^jhbouring 
oaveru  under  eimiUr  condilion^.  lie  informs  ine  in  a 
lotUr  (April  IT,  1S7-^)  that  hv  loiind  with  this  aeoond 
human  loBisil  a  Iliiil  lau<x  mid  Hint  hntvhi:!,  hutb  polished. 
.  ,  .  Gxlinct  animals  were  Tuiind  abo  at  a  hi<'her  level 
thim  thigReixini)  likclcton,  but  I  infer  from  k-tton  ruccivvd 
fium  Mr.  Chnrlwi  Mooru,  now  iil  Mentono,  Unit  the  tima  f 
of  inhumation  of  thene  reniuitu  of  elenhautt),  rliinocerw, 
and  care  bears,  in  Buboei'ial  Iji^ooias  at  different  altitudes  ill 
the  eiiffs  will  have  to  be  criliciilly  iisecrUuned  ln'kire  their 
•reuld^it^al  U^nriu^  on  the  a^  of  the  human  ^kl•let<n)A  can ' 
be  fiiwUv  settled."  ' 

It  wiit  be  seen   by  tiie  above  that  Mr.  Charles  Moortfj 
duabts   the   Paleolithic   (or  nupuliphed  stone)  age  of  thi 
Kkdi'tonK,  and  tbinlis  they  miiy  belong  only  t"  the  neo- 
lithic »r  ]>i>linhed    xtune  perioil,  wherna  Sir  Charles  Lyell 
ap{)eara  to  luun  to  their  l^aWlithic  character. 

AOBlCVLTt'B.M.   OKOIXtOY, 

As  we  iiavo  seen,  several  of  the  lower  or  secondary 
hills  cncloued  in  the  nni]ihitlifatrw  uru  formed  of  ■  I 
Runiiyloiie.  With  this  exeeptiou  tim  Koil  may  !)<■  said  to 
be  priuoipnily  of  limestone  formiitiun,  with  here  and  tliure 
uluminoiH  clays.  The  a>ifricul(nral  };eolo|^v  of  the  diftriet 
is,  consi-ipit'iitly,  rxn-e«lin^ly  interesting,  olll-ring  much  to 
ubaerve  in  a  very  Uinitol  an-a. 

The  clay  »triita,  in  their  iiulnral  unworked  ^Utte,  appear, 
as  elsewhere  in  Italy,  very  sterile.  Tho  sides  of  the  deep 
ravines  woni  in  them  by  mountain  torronta  present  little 
niituoii  vi-gt-tation ;  »«  nniv  be  M-en  in  tlit;  upper  part  of 
the  Gurl'io  vulh-v,  and  tu  the  eaxt  of  the  mountain  village 
of  Ca&tellare,  Where,  however,  the  fall  is  not  precipitous, 
and  I'Speciully  where  terraeis  h;ive  lioen  formed,  and  ihv 
soil  lia»  bi-cii  work(-d  and  miiininil,  the  clay  tlr»ta  uppi-ar 
to  become  very  pioductivu.     This  is  easily  explniiMd 


AOKUCLTtTtAL  liP»lJXJY. 


6J> 


elajra  contain  tli«  poUxh,  lime,  and  oth«r  snibi  ni.«ei>eary  Tor 
ve;iv{atii>n,  nn<)  <>v>:'rvwbi'^t]  tneroly  require  cultivation  und 
irri;^tiuti  lo  lN<<y>nH>  f>?rtil«. 

TIm  saivdstunti  hilla  are  luotv  itulurally  Tmlilii  titan  tliu 
daiY,  to  t^Hjir  o«-n  [xwuliar  v«;{eU»tioi» — Conilvm,  lli»th!i, 
'  inJ  Broonw^but  <!<>  i>ot  ofRtr  tlte  snme  reoourutts  tu  ctilti- 
vatton.  Tlie  w>il  IxHn^  prin«ip.illy  inticioitf,  niid  uonUi»in|; 
in  wry  sinull  proportion  tti«  ealla  und  mineral  oonatiluontei 
n>>|iiin^)  for  oorvnU  wid  the  veji^tion  of  fc^  \aaA,  it 
il-A-s  ii»L  appear  U>  ItCoomo  »a  oii»ily  tWrtilo  iinilur  culti^i)- 
lion.  Slill,  with  ttiu  li«tp  or  t^irriwHw,  irrii^niion,  and 
nmniiriii!;,  il  etieaa  to  respond  to  tliu  wants  of  the  ever- 
j^mn  Olirf,  LiMiioii,  and  ()ra»;riNtm»,  i!s]>t>i.-ially  wbore  tliu 
md  join*  thv  tinKwUme,  nitd  tlicrv  ix  u  lnixlun^  of  l><>tl). 
Tlte  itnen  »iiitd,  u'li<>i\'  il  apitmirs  •^\v^!*  as  n.itinl  a  muttt 
proJiioiivL*  6oil,  us  liir  ii»tanc<e  hiijl)  ap  in  the  Cubrole 
vull«y,  (i.wUi  i>r  St*.  Anncw. 

'IV'    twnl    »tnitiri<xT   limwtMM;   wliioli   ouii'tituH^    ilic 

MoilUtntiin  Uikin,  arul  ol'  wliioU  the  lii^hi-r  nng\'  of  hiltx 

is  mainly,  il'  txd  untiroiy,  uomtKWMl,  l>y  itN  (k-o-imiiositiou 

furms  n  very  fi-rtile  soil,     IndiMd,  lite  ^niduitl  ili^mtd;{rA- 

tion  ol'  this   ban)   n>arbl«-like   mck  lulmiralily  illi«itriiti^« 

tb«  f-Tnution  of  M>iU  in  tho  cnriy  i>i'ri<>()  of  llto  t-urtb'* 

LTL-jtinu.     Like  lintratoue*   in  ^iterul   it  contains,  louked 

I  up  >n  it«  all  b«it  aduiuaiiline  Ktructuiv,  mo^t  of  th«  miDeral 

Mffiiiciitii   iivtweRify  fur   ve;;vtiition,  invludioi;   iron.      Ttiv 

pnwtfuce  uf  ifoti  in  at  onou  appan'nt  from  lite  rvd  hue  of 

tha  mono  |)er|M7adi<;nlar  rouk*.     \Vhen  a  fruotitre  oucutv, 

lib*  fnHiture  is  at  lirsi  w)iit«,  ImiI  from  e.ipoaiire  to  tti«  air 

jUiu  intit  puwvn  to  lh«  Btata  of  tliu  n-d  pcruxtde,  iu  which 

[ataltf  it  il  uell  kituvvn,  if  not  Ux)  abiKulmiL,  to  irroatly  in- 

rroiittc  tliL-  fcrtitity  of  toil*.     Iletivu  tliif  tvO  bu>*  of  the  rooks 

I  ivliuili  IhiuimI  llie  inner  bay  ifur  thu  i'ual  'St.  Louis,  am)  of 

'Uio  aoii  t;<'rii>r.i)ly,  formed  by  tlie  delnlii«  itt'  tiniv  tmkUv. 

At  the  foctt  and  on  th«  sides  of  tb««<:  linKwt'iDu  rovkti  aro 
vast  ntimitm  of  ittontv  and  d*^tritu)i  that  Imve  lallen  IVoni 
tb«  L-hib  adjoiniiij;,  broken  olF  l>v  tbe  (.■onibiiied  action  of 
Inoiaturv,  6iin,  and  uriud,  Tiicse  gradtuilly  onimbtv  wbeiu 
tbey  lir,}i'rUlini;up  their  miner.d  uun^lit^MmU,  and  forntiii;; 
a  kuitaMe   uiiIiim   liir   iMudf   M>Lvn   eitliur   by  the   Itaud  of 


CO 


Till;  KIVLEILV    ASD   MENTONE. 


Knliire   or   hy  Hint  of  miin.     If  llie   Irmon   or  olive   ifl 
planted   iit   such   soil,  il   k'"^^"   o^   '^^^   vigorously  and 
ti<.-till1iily.     If  vp-jetnl'loe  and  <.-i?i'piilg  aiu  i^oirn,  th«y  nppoar 
tit  U-  njDiilly  at  lionic.     Tlio  nimioi'wud  tt-rriu'w  ri-cviiily 
ci'dHtruotitl  on  th«  side  ol'  the  muiiiitiiii),  iiikI  iit  the  l<ioLJ 
of  ilie  clilts  near  tJie  St.  Ixiuis  ruvine,  and  the  seir-sowitl 
jthiiit^  [;ro\riiit;    nntilially    in    the    sum?    re;noi>,    illut>tr»t«1 
Ihiwr  IhcUt.     Tltiix,  no  dmibt,  wn»  the  ^oil  of  the  hiibiluhlv] 
ttlolie  Ibrmts]  whi-n  ita  niunntuin^t  lint  Kiin-tl  thftr  heads  | 
ahot'e  the  uave^. 

iM-oni  what  precedes,  it  will  hi!  nt  once  understood  that 
the  vc^trtiitioii  of  the  Mfiitniiian  ainphitlR-iitri-,  cxwpt  that ' 
It  r  I  ho  ^utid  liilli>,  ill  wliiil  may  he  lorin<'d  a  htite  veL>ot:il  ion. 
In  other  words,  the  plants  thut  thrive  the  heft  urv  prin- 
cipnlly  thoee  that  lluurish  in  a  eaicai'euus  soil,  in  difitriut»J 
in  nliiidi  lime  i»  ii  eom|N>iK'nt  pni  t  ol'  the  rod. 

TliUK  ivy  guiiv."  Iteely  in  the  r.ivines,  and  un  th«  walU,| 
nhcre  there  it*  nmiMnre.    Fellilory,  es!>enliii11y  a  lime  plants ' 
ffixinfi  out  ol  eveiy  wall  and  teri'aee.    Widlll-wi-r,  Viri;ini«n 
Stock,  and    Pink    aiid    Ci.irnntton   ^roiv    and    bloom   most 
hixiirinntly  in   the  gardcnn,  with  little  or  no  cultivalioiti] 
Thvy  form  lar^c  huKhiit  in  the  wintir,  and  ore  one  huge ' 
iiui»8  ol'  hixiinant  hlomoni  very  early  in  vjirin^.     There  is  a 
email  wild  Piuh,  a  native,  which  grows  out  or  creviex-s  in 
the  dni«l  and  m<^>Et  i;iinhornl  rocks.   Tho  Odouelur  ntbrum, 
or  rid  Valerian,  ^rona  vrild  everywhere,  ihrnwing  out  thick 
auci'ulent  MeniH  and  laige  tipiktv  id'  llower  livin  tu<-re  erevice* 
in  the  dry  sunbumt  roch. 

Tu  \\i*w  may  Ikj  added,  ae  «iQinpl«ii  of  Hme-plants,  th« 
Arnm  Ariraium,  theKumitorj*,  theCnoorum  tncvecnm,  and 
the  Crat^iiliitH'u.'  or  Stnni-en>i«.  'Flic  Fuiniliiry  if  the  eom* 
nmnest  wild  plant.  It  ukius  and  llcweis  everywluve  on 
the  leiiiices  throughout  the  « inter.  The  Arum  Ari^ariim  ia 
cquiilly  pixiltfie  and  niiiverFol.  Its  dull  purple  Howcr  eovers 
llie  olive  lerriices,  and  HltnielB  ininiedialv  ntU-nliim  alter 
the  autumn  raiua.  I  am  told  that  the  iwt  Ik  [food  loud  for 
pigs,  but  it  i»  deep  below  the  surlaee,  eomtetjiieutly  ol  nitber 
ditlicnlt  i-xtraetton,  and  appeai-s  not  tu  be  tboU);lit  worth 
cl'iSffing  op.      Muicover,  pi^s   do  not  Ecem   to  be   mitch 


AfillK.lTI,Tl7KAr,  GKOIXHJV. 


01 


ik),  or  their  Kwtety  cultivatwl  in  th«  Mcntoniaa 
distriut. 

Till?  Cnwruin  tricnocum  is  a  rntlier  et^;ant,  amulUnii'A'U 
liaiihy  pUril,  ivitli  miiJill  <liirk';;n?on  le:tvi,«,  smnll  yellow 
llvxveni,  and  ti-ilubLil  n^oA,  which  i*  only  fimml  in  Um 
uiUlvst,  ruckiMt,  unJ  driest  rc^ous;  in  such  liimilitii'ji, 
fnr  iii>i1ikni.v,  UN  I)h-  rocks  iitiove  the  Si.  Lonix  l{ri<l;fe, 
when?  it  ^rowa  fr>-»ly,  II  iH'ton^j*  in  tli«  IVretiintlinrwB, 
rhii-lly  a  Iropk-jl  oidir.  anJ  in  in  lIowiT  iiH  winUtr;  itllhoii:.')i 
luxiiili)*  t!irf<'  (ii'l.iUu-l  nod  t)ii««  g«;dt^,  it  ia  occ-usioiuUy 
lour  {>rUilW  nn<l  foiir  soodci).  Alon^  with  it,  buvniise 
Iviiud  ill  thti  sjtiio  luculiliiH,  intut  iw  named  ii  v«ry  lovWy 
ihrubhy  ni4lviio«»iu8  jibiit,  tht)  Laval«ni,  with  delicate 
pinky-white  "  miillow"  flowt-t*.  It  MoKsoms  vpry  frotly 
nil  winter  in  thu  ubotre  loralitieM,  uiid  uln';iy)i  attriioU  the 
«t'l«ut»0D  of  the  Ptmnj^i-  who  leaves  the  shore  and  the 
terracvK  to  ctimh  ihe  rvcky  lioi'^hto. 

Ttie  Sl4>iiwro|M  are  very  at^undiuil  on  thu  w«I1m,  in  the 
warinAl  iind  driest  re>{iouii,  j^enernlly  growinj^  out  of  their 
inlpffitiooe.     Tliey  flower  in  April. 

Nor  mniit  1  furgct  Ut  muntion,  an  ni!ornin£f  tlioo  rocky 
rvj^iona,  Kne,  Itiiaennary,  anil  wild  Thyme.  The  two  ktter 
({TOW  friwly  ninl  nhundantly,  flowering  nil  winti;r,  \Vi>  can 
thiMi,  t)ir<>ili;hi>iit  the  winter,  in  Doueniher  and  January, 
iBurtanr  tvitv  vtnx,~~ 

"I  know  a  roek  wliurmu  Ui«  wild  thyme  grown." 

Another  nmniiitir  liiliiiit«,  futind  nlxmdantly,  ix  Mint;  hut 
ili  huliitiil  JM  dill'erent.  It  ntiist  be  iook«d  lor  in  laueM  and 
ilanifi  ravines,  in  mobt  lootditic*. 

The  8oil  Kiiilt'  the  Vine,  which  flonri«hi?«  in  a)l  t>uch 
inouiitJiin  recoils  with  a  tNMilhern  expusinro,  on  thu  Afedi* 
tcrmnejn  shores.  It  is  principalty  cultivutcd  on  ternti.vs, 
at  frnni  iiUU  to  2O0U  f<.-i:t  alwve  ttiu  nc-n  level,  and  l'or> 
tnerlv  very  gcKHl  win«  waa  made  in  the  district,  some  ot 
whidi  may  Mill  be  hod.  Vur  many  yc.trti,  however,  Uie 
oidiiin)  Tci^ined  with  the  Kanie  xiivn^  inti-nHity  as  at 
Madeira,  and  no  nine  whatever  wax  produced.  No  doubt 
the  evil  mi^ht  have   been  remedied   by-  proeuitn^  sound 


oa 


Tlie  RniEBA    AND  HKSTOSR. 


cultlnj^  from  the  nei);hl>oiirl)ood  of  A<x,  wh«re  tlte  diseai 
bii*  nrvcr  jiitpr-jire^i,  ami  l>v  eiilphiinni;  aFMiluoiiFly,  Bi 
t)ie  Mi-iitoiiiati  u|;nL'«ilturiiiti>  liud  imt  snlliciciit  oupff^ 
or  onttT|irise  to  atlupt  tttis  cour>«.  Tliev  succumbed  to 
what  Ihpv  ihoiiifhl  tbc  will  of  God,  cnitsidi-rtn};  it,  I  am 
tuld,  iinpioiM  to  vlrive  atn>i<>i>t  lite  diKvoMC.  Ti>  me  their 
itiMtion  waa  more  likely  lite  result  of  tJial  apathy  and  dit- 
lucliiiulioD  to  adopt  i>cw-fant;l«d  ways  tiiut  elioractcrixM 
the  o^nailtuml  mind,  in  nil  dountrri'*^  Laltorly  Vines  have 
Ih-oi)  ptiii)t<.-<l,  and  lieture  loiig  vru  may  Iwtpe  to  i>ee  (piod 
M'iii«a;:Hin  produced  at  Mcntoue.  live  presence  of  atranKem 
ba«  ercaird  a  rcmly  market,  and  no  doubt  in  cITort  wil(  be 
iD»de  to  supply  their  wuiila. 

During  the  winter  the  Vin«e  are  without  teares,  and, 
being  like  old  ropes  when  trailed,  Italian  Tu^Ji ton,  from  tre^ 
to  tree,  add  nothing  to  th''  In-outy  of  I  lie  mene.  The  Pwid 
and  Almoud-ti«es  are  e>|ually  devoid  of  foliage,  and  tltcre-J 
fore  stiinc  by  their  abwocc.  Tliey  blo«6i>m,  however,  in' 
i'Vbrnary,  and  tl:i-n  Iwoomc  ornamental ;  they  arc  more 
iiumcTouK  in  the  rii-inity  of  the  higher  inouBtiiiii  vilhij^ot 
than  nirar  the  ahore. 

Fruit-trees  of  all  kinds  SMm  to  find  the  sea-level  t 
warm,  and  are  principally  cultirated  at  a  much  gnat 
elevation,  Hich  an  the  vicinity  of  the  Turbia,  or  of  St'. 
A(inc«e,  nt'iive  HWi  feet  lii^h.  Here  Vines,  Apple,  Pear, 
Cherry,  Peach,  and  Almond- 1a^<«  abotind,  coveriiit;  the  ter> 
raeex,  and  taking  the  place  of  the  Olire-tn-e.  The  Mintrr 
fntfcta  arc  wviTt;  at  thi»  elevation,  for  1  have  r<-peatedly 
M«D  ice  an  inch  thick.  Thio  degree  of  winter  cclii  seeoia, 
inde^sJ,  lo  auit  their  constitution  better  than  the  tnild  winl 
rtimitle  of  the  »riish»re  re|*ion. 


CHAPTER  in. 


MCAt  n&WRAPUY  ANU  MKTK'iROLOOT  OK  THE  EIVIEBjl 
ASD  OF  UBXTONF. 

Tlw  i:hum«t«Ti«ltcii  of  tlic  M(-Btoiie*r[ut«rflUmate  w«,  "  Abaeacc  of 
frrnt,  piwvKlvBm  of  Borllinrly  wimls,  modunte  drfn«M  of  tbe 

MUlMMfpbiqv.  «>m|i1iTlv  nlnuooo  or  fog,  IMiKit^r  of  nJBjr  &}■•, 
diMnuMM  lUfi  liliirimii  o(  aky.  gcnuraj  lient  aiid  lirilliuiej  of 
ran.  oool  iki)ifat  t«ui|n)r«tur»,  n  lirturinj;  axdoMB  of  lb«  aiiDO- 
■lihurv  tti'niirullj'.  anil  a  iDcan  •liflirivnoo  o(  M'  f(.  Falir.  oii)jr 
Mtwrvu  thuitu^r  niKiimniu  and  tli«  iiigbt  nunimatn."— (p.  tfl.) 

('.MtrrL^[.»biH.>rvation,  duriiii;  lirtt>t<ii  wintvrs, of  tlie  meteor* 
ul«(jirul  nuDclitioiui  whiirh  ivi-fn  «n  ihc  Gpnocjir  Rivii-ra, 
nntl  at  Motitont',  hw  grailuully  M  me  to  fumi  a  denr  i<lvu 
(if  ihoir  iiuturu  and  nt  tl)«>ir  infliicncn  over  the  climate. 

Ai  w«  Ii»v4!  ■«<•»,  ttiv  Mt>nU»iiiiD  iltKlrii-t,  whieh  bnti  hcnu 
tlia  (iriDcipol  seat  of.iiiy  ol«ervaU')ii  and  atiulv,  is  a  small 
Binjijiitlirittrf,  tiiti4.it4.-il  on  tiiv  coaet-Um*  or  tinuerclilTof  llie 
niimiilBiri*  uf  noullH-rti  Ktir<>|ii',  di^  thrj'  rciu:)!  t)i>'  Mt-'diUrr- 
raiivuii.  To  tlie  norll)-i.-a!il,  norlli,  niid  mirlli-wi-Jit,  art'  the 
lii^tliiiit  iiiiiiiiilain  cliaiiis  of  F.urujiv,  cxlenilinf*  htindrtnls  ol' 
mili-ii  (•IT  Miipn,  Golf  of  (ivnnii  und  nt  Mc<litcmine«n]. 
t'ltrtUxr  ttill  to  llie  norlli-uast  lies  lliu  tuble-liiiid  of  Kiimjie, 
wittdi  rewhi-s  tu  the  arctic  rrf^ioite.  As  a  ove^tsary  K'fiiilt 
of  litis  gvogruptiical  punition,  tlii;  nurtheni  wicKl*,  exM'iriallj' 
the  north  and  imrlli-cjisl ,  irniBt  \ie  very  dry  wintU.  rirally, 
tlii-jr  have  \mcn  dried  hy  tfiivullins  over  a  jjreot  coiilitH'iit, 
i^rx'oudly,  lliuy  Imvtt  hud  ix-urly  uU  the  rtmiiiniii^  inuihttiiv 
M  TOii(t  irtit  of  them  hy  the  extreme  cold  of  the  Iiiffh  reuioii» 
whioh  ihiry  have  Lo  |k>m  over  when  crcie!>iii(;  theAlpiae 
ehniDs,  bcl'on;  they  fiM:h  the  McilitL-minean. 

Tito  nhyuool  evideoces  of  the  extreme  dryness  of  the 
atn]D«pn«n>,   when    northerly   winds   reign,  nre  manifokl. 


u 


THE  UIVILUA   ANi>  MKNTOSe. 


Firally,  witli  a  nortli  mid  notth-L'ititt  wind,  Ihtw  is  gen«-' 
riilly  H  ilifrorMioe  n\'  from  iiiiii!  t<i  tni'lve  cle;^ri?t»  Vnhr.  be- 
tween llie  wel  and  dry-bulb  tliemiometers.  Willi  lh« 
north-Hivt,  wliieli  crorsi-e  lawvr  inuuiitaiii  c-liain*,  nnd  inny 
come  frpm  tlii^  Nurtli  AtlitDlit-,  llii:  dillLTc-nc-e  iH  (^iierallf' 
fi-Hin  iivi-  U'  I'iylit  or  nine  derives.  Svcaudlv,  tbe  atmo-' 
n|ihere  is  u^tmlly  clear,  the  eky  blue,  tliv  fnn  eIhiips  tviirmly, 
the  nii;lit8  iirc  C()i)i|iiiralivi-ly  ciild,  Biid  llic  KiimmiU  uC 
niotinliiiuK,  above  I'uiir  thousuiid  feet  litf^li,  ure  free  from 
clouds. 

These  phcnonicim  are  eiisily  ex]>1itiiied  on  invti'orolct;;iciiL 
grouiul)!.     Tbi;  |ir<fcncc  of  tnoiKturc  in   Hk-  iiir,  uillit-r  iM, 
ini|icrcT|>t)blc  vii]iour  or  ns  cloud,  uivea  n  whiit-  a]i|)taraii< 
to  the  el>y,  and  veils  the  eurtb  from  tbe  eiin's  rays.     I 
thus    liocoin<w   u    IciimI    of  itliii-ld,    a   prottotion    from    tin 
wiirmth  of  Uic  siin.     When  moisture  fcarui-ly  exists,  um 
llie  flit  is  dry,  lis  in  Iho  ilt'djterrnnean  lishin  with  a  north' 
wind,  ill  K^ypt,  in  tti<^  dencrl  of  Siilmrii  with  Koiillt  wiimIs, 
indeed  in  nil  dry  rt-giotiK,  the  ^Icy  is  idnuy*  blue,  tlio  kuu 
xhiiic*  with  ^I'ful  power,  and  at  niglil,  uwin^;  to  riipiit 
radiation  of  the  oarlh's  heat  into  »pace,  tU«  nir  becom' 
enm|iiir»ti%'i'ly,  cold.      Sticb  w  th«   elinintc  of  tbo  rioitlii 
Meditvrrniit-an  cou>L  uitb  iiurilicrly   nindv.     'lliu  >ky  i 
clear  ntid  blue,  tlio  eun  thint^s  like  a  ^lubc  uf  fin*,  wlitvh  l 
rertlly  in,  nnd  iln    ijyn   r*'acli    llm  Piirili   willi  ;;rciit  powi 
Tb«  uii^'bli'  aie  llion  ck-ur,  the  )itn»  nliinc  with  a  biiglitnns 
tiiil<riowii  in  Uie  north,  oud  tlio  temiieratiire  of  tbe  air  is 
cold,  oonipari'd  ivitb  wbat  it  is  in  thf  d.iytime. 

Tbe  Kn^liiih  climate  is  pnrtly  vxplniiu-d  by  th«  abo 
fncU.  The  utmospbcrc  above  tin?  British  Isli-s  in  always 
loiidcd  with  aipu'OUK  vap»iu',  which  gives  to  tbe  sky  its 
usual  i^hitisli  eiiluur.  The  ai|uc>>us  vapour  of  the  ntmu- 
spbcru  shields  the  enilh  from  the  action  of  the  huh'k  rays 
during  duy,  and  prevents  radiation  during;;  ni^ht.  lience 
the  coolness  of  uur  summer,  us  c-onipared  with  tbat  of  tli« 
sumo  Continental  liilitudrs,  where  ihis  aquciiiKi  shield  is 
wautin|{.  In  winter,  when  ihc  sun  is  low  on  the  horixuu 
and  ils  rays  are  feeble,  the  cluud  utnio«|dien-,  by  prevontiti); 
nidialion,  ktyjis  in  the  heat  previously  atquin-d,  mid  ooii 
Iributev,  with  ibv  Uull  xtroiini,  to  render  Uie  lirititib  wint 


POTSICAL  OBOORAPHT  AND  METEOROJ-OOV.      65 


milder  tlian  that  of  the  (lri«r  Continental  regions  id  the 
same  pwaltel  of  latitude. 

The  influence  of  the«o  m«tcoro1o(»ical  conditions  on 
climnlr  liiw  burn  well  ex|itiiinciJ,  of  liit<r,  Ity  frofci 
Tvndiill  ill  liiit  Iraturcs  on  liiiut,  It  i»  nl^ui  licaulifully ' 
il]u9tnite<l  by  the  meUoroloifical  obaerva lions  of  Mr. 
GUiGlier,  during  his  aeronaulic  nscensions.  Once  above 
Uie  aqiicoiw  vapotir  and  tliv  clotitls,  which  vxtend  »itvi.Tul 
thoutHiiid  foet  lii^^h  in  our  climate,  a  dry  atinoapherio 
ivKi"i>  i»  reached,  where  the  skv  appears  intcusely  blue, 
llie  buu'b  raya  here  have  so  much  power  that  lliey  scorch 
nd  htitfter  the  fare  and  hands,  »llhou;;h  thu  thertnoineler 
Ay  lie  much  Im-Ii>w  thu  freezing  point. 
The  Miiliterraiiuaii  climate,  when  the  itorlh  winds  blow, 
13  like  this  upper  region  of  our  own  »tmoephere,  Tlie  uir, 
rontnininj;  hut  liUlc  mo>«tare  if  Uichu  north  windH  rvit^n, 
Bit  ttitv  do  during  the  gn-atci  part  of  the  niiitvr,  the  nky  is 
blue,  and  the  oun  shineH  through  it  fiercely,  even  in  mid* 
winter.  It  thus  warmn  directiv  all  the  gbjectti  with  which 
it  enmea  in  conlaot,  and  by  retlectioa  everythinj^,  for  some 
difttanee  from  the  ctitTs  or  motintaina. 

The  north-wu»t  wind,  c»llwi  the  mi*trol  in  this  part  of 
tho  M^vlitvmitieiin,  blovm  from  the  centre  and  south  of 
I'Viince  M  a  cold,  dry,  cuttintc  wind,  whicli  is  mueh  druaded. 
Tlwre  are  many  explanations  and  theories  oa  to  itc  origin, 
but  1  think  that  there  is  no  d<>nbt  at  to  it<>  being  a  wind 
ori};inatiiig  in  the  monnlainouH  region  of  Fi-niu-e  that 
•striMU  I'roni  Switzerland  to  the  western  Pyrenees,  include 
in;;  llio  Daiiphiny  Alpa,  th«  Puy  de  Dome,  and  the 
CVvi-niies.  Cold  air  nisiics  down  lii)ni  IIk»c  ngions  to  the 
^Ii-diltirrantan  bnain  to  lake  the  place  of  the  rarcfio)  wurni 
air  that  aooends.  One  of  the  ^reat  climate  adv«nta^et>  of 
Mentnne  ia  its  complete  protection  from  this  wind  by  the 
Turhia  mountain,  which  aeparalcK  it  from  Nice.  When  the 
mistral  blow*,  the  vky  remaiii*  blut^,  and  ihc  »im  #hiniM 
warmly.  So  me  times,  however,  the  norlh-weiit  wind  hlovrx 
UQ  Ioniser  as  a  local  wind,  ori>>inalini;  in  the  »oi)tli  of 
Frani-v,  hut  as  B  grand  north-wcHi  l^uropean  wind,  corointf 
from  the  Xotth  acas  and  North-went  Athintic,  Then  it 
bi-inipi  block  cIoihU  toudvd  with  rain,  which  may  fiill  in 


66 


THE  BIVieRA    AND   MENTONB. 


the  (li^tricl.or  out  iit  ««»,  an<]  tlie  ililTcrGncc  Wtwctfiitl 
VL'L-t  iiikI  1\h-  ilrv  litill)  thi'rmoinvtt'rK  tlimtiiifiliw. 

Iliiw  wb«ii  r.iin  doeit  fall,  witb  a  iiortli-wcst  wind,  thj 
cause  is  ij^iierallv  n  grnnd  oc^uoic  aod  Kurojwan  iiortll' 
weetorly  (itorm  ;  but  twh  rain  b  rare.  It  »  ^lil)  more  oo 
willi  tli«  Mriody  cnnliiipntul  wniils,  tlie  iiij|-(h-«a«t,  nn^ 
vnM.  IiiiIcmI,  wbeii  rain  fulU  at  Mcittone  with  an] 
«in;Ii  wimis,  it  is  gcneially  at  the  end  ol"  »  EuMpean  jpile 
from  tbcse  reginOE,  coviTiiiR  iiU  Kiimjic  with  eiioiv  atid  iw, 
of  wliii'li  tli«  iH'wsiiiipcre  biinp;  ii»  the  di-Hiil»  a  frw  d:iy« 
Inter.  Siu-li  rain  licconivs  enow  cii  the  bigh«r  eluviitiDiis  of^ 
t)i4.>  niodittaii)!!  that  surround  and  enclose  ^leDtone. 

£veu  with  a  direct  eoutb-enfit  wind,  snow-  may  fall,  ei 
oeptionalty,  inside  tbc  Moiitonv  xnipbitliciitrv,   owiii<>  li 
its  Iciii^  o]>un  to  the  toutli-ciot  in  ii  Iiul'  with  Ut»  high 
moiitilaiiw  ul'  Corsica,  whtcb  lie  directly  sutitb-oa^l,  and  ate  ^ 
then  owveri-d    with    snow.      Snow,    with    a    Hoiitli-eaBterl| 
wind,  generally  lalU  in  the  latter  part  of  the  winter,  in^ 
Muri'b  for  inetnnoi-,  when  immonso  macBcs  of  snow  linve 
nw:timii1itU;d  Oil  the  C'oreican  inounliiin*.     Bi-rom  ihis  iie- 
rii mill. il ion  him  tiiken  plnee,  in  early  winter,  the  Mnitb-i'iLHt 
wind  in  n  tvtinn  wind,  the  SL-iroceo. 

Thus,  during;  winter  there  is  very  little  rain  from  the 
northt'i-n  ■iiuirti.^rv;  nnd  iw,  diirini;  the  winter  montli*',  from 
Noveoiher  to  -May,  the  wind  in  generally  from  these 
qunrtem.  Die  dr^%  clear,  euniiy,  but  cool  winter  cliniiile  of 
>l«Dtflne  is  explained.  The  exceptional  winter  warmth, 
for  the  latitude,  depend)'  on  tnotintuin  protect  inn,  and  on 
other  r.^ti«-.v,  whieb  will  he  proently  «\umii>vd  and  a 
plained,  not  mi  hiiittide. 

When  rain  falls,  with  the  wind  steadily  in  these  norl hem 
quarters,  it  is  {jentk',  iiKulrnitc  in  quantity,  never  pivsen tin jj^ 
Uiv  tropical  ehariictiT  uf  tiirioti*  downpour. 

AVhen  ibv  tiorlherly  winds  brin^r  cloud*  nnd  send  ov 
the  rmmntains,  and  the  atnioHphere  in  the  Meitti'mnn 
amphitheatre  and  out  nt  sea  io  warm,  these  clouds  oIt>*n 
Diell  RTadually,  and  disappear.  It  U  n  very  iiilcn'Ktini; 
e'phl  o  "rn  thick  banks  of  cluud*  tints  rtKin-;;  over  the 
Hiimmib  of  the  bigher  mountains  in  the  lack  ground,  );ei)e* 

^■v  from  the  nortb-westj  expanding  on  the  sky  tihuvej  tind 


d 


rmrsicu.  qeoqrapht  and  hetbobolooy.    67 


then  melting  away  aa    tlicy    advance    wiitbnrards,    into 
wanner  atunwplieric  str.ita.     AlW  a  lime,  however,  if  tlic 
Lwiitd  whwli  iiDpeln  tlii-ni  is  jHiu-irrfiil,   llicy   cool  tbo  air, 
raoiniiniiUu-,  and  the  vntire  fky  lxM.-<>m>'ii  civirrciuit. 

Witti  »outJi-WL-)il<.'ily  and  Mintli-i-ustctly  windd,  tbe  fall  of 

tain  at  MentAiie,  and  on  the  Itiviera  in  •^I'nerul,  is  oftvii 

very  {fTv^t  in  a  lintititt  tftMx  of  time— Jiid Mil,  i\tiiUi  Iropi- 

^cal.     'Him  i»  alio  mimrtitne*  the  cai>c  when  northerly  wiD<l9 

QMt   southerly   vurretitti  on  or  near  tlie  coat't  line,  and 

[•citndense  their  moisture.     The  rainHill  in^iy  in  eitiier  uieo 

'  kniount  to  five  ur  eis  inehen  in  the  tivcnty-foitr  hunna. 

Whi-m-ver  thin  ikithm,  llic  waUTDtmnicii  nro  tillt.-\i,  from 
hjnic  tn  ImiiiIc,  with  cnorniouw  volumi-K  ul'  water,  wliicli 
carry  down  great  mas^eo  of  etoiH!  like  straws  from  th« 
mountainfl,  and  exeavate  wide  beds  oa  they  npproiieh  the 
•hore  line.  Then.-  w*iil«rvour«c»  arc,  at  other  tiniea,  an  iii 
Ciiitml  and  *utilh<Tn  Italy,  mere  rivrn  of  xtom-tf,  with  a 
'tliiii  i<trejiRt  of  Wilier  tnrkliug  throu<;li  the  middle.  On 
cue  ni^lil,  Dec.  l^TiO,  four  and  a  half  inches  fell  in  ten 
hours.  Tlio  ^rcateBt  nmonut  of  rain  tliat  wiis  known  to 
have  falk-n  in  twenty-four  hours  at  Oreetiwiob,  iu  five 
yvan,  waa  2'tt^l  imhea  (Drew), 

TIio  atnalle^l  rills  lieiuome  imgwtuoua  torrents  when  the 
rain  falls  with  this  tro|>ical  viuletice.  As  they  nish  madly 
111  tha  MM,  their  vellow  wiilen-,  like  thoeu  of  thu  "  lUviti 
TihiV  iif  the  old  I.<utin  )>uetK,  carry  down  vast  qiuuitities 
(if  •tonev  iHid  earth,  washed  from  the  mountain  nit  lea,  and 
diitoidotir  the  waves  fur  aontu  diitanee  from  the  shore.  The 
dmvnt  of  thritc  earth  and  btono-hidcn  waters  into  the  scfl 
tllu>LnitD«,  on  a  untall  K-ale,  tliu  way  in  whii;h  the  dcltiut  at 
the  mririth  of  hirfpt  rivera,  aiich  as  the  Nile,  the  Ganges, 
thu  Minsissijipi,  iutve  Uvn  and  are  being  created.  Il  iilso 
illii>^lrtiU-e  the  mode  of  foriiiatiou  in  past  geoloctca)  eras  of 
the  Nejilunian  or  M-dinu-ntiiry  strata.  The  i-itrtn  eontained 
in  roUitton  and  thrown  into  the  M-a,  gruduulty  BiilR<ides  and 
ainka  to  the  holtoin,  there  fonuiug  liuriicuntal  layera,  Uifl 
compoaitioii  and  nature  of  which  depend  on  the  kind  of  toil 
oarnrd  away  rr«)ni  the  land  by  the  river  or  torrent.  A* 
M  deposita  take  [ilace,  numerous  aninintvd  beitigs,  vs- 
|i«ciaUy  tlwae  that  cuntivl  get  nwuy  very  faiit  Ihtni  tba 


68 


THE  RTVIERA    AND  MESTONE. 


tntii) -shower,  such  as  crustacete,  become  entombed,  V 
etitiit«  tbe  fowils  of  future  ages. 

Thtw  heavy  rains,  as  we  nave  twcn,  are  all  bat  oon(in«d 
tn  the  ■outhrrly  ninJx,  or  (o  th«ir  collision  with  north^rly 
winds,  on  tb<r  tthort  mourttain*,  or  near  tbe  shore.  Cofnin!; 
from  Uie  warm  w>iith,  the  southerly  nimls  are  warm,  and, 
in  piissin^  nver  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mcdit«rranean,  alt^orb 
large  qitnntitieB  of  moisture.  On  arriving  nt  tlte  mounluin- 
([irt  must  of  the  Ktviprta,  Ihi-y  iire  arreHted  by  oold  currctiu 
irom  the  north,  or  have  to  amend  the  Hides  of  the  mountain 
ranges.  In  either  case,  in  winter,  ihcy  cnme  in  contact 
with  cooler  atmospheric  strata,  and  arc  obtt|;e<l  to  part 
with  their  moisture,  wliirJi  forms  deiuw  clouds  ana  is 
rapidly  precipitated  in  the  shape  of  heavy  rain. 

Tlie  total  rainfalt  diirint>  my  first  ninter's  repidcnee  at 
Mcntone,  l8aU-6(l,  was  23-6H  in.,  from  OcloUi  ftth  to 
April  21*1;  via:.,  October,  S  02  in.;   November,  2-21  io.;^f 
iM-emlier,  6-93  in. :  January,  3*21  in.;  February, '18  iii.j™ 
March,  l-SMJ  in.;  April,  l-Sl  in.     These  data  were  (civen 
me  by  a  friend  who  Kept  an  aecurate  re;^s1cr.     Aeeoixliiif* 
lo   my   own   obsemtions,   it   rained    in    that   winter,   in 
November  five  days,  in  Deeember  five,  in  January  four,  in 
February  one,  in  March  six,  and  iu  April,  up  to  tbe  2:)rd, 
ei;;ht  days;  in  all,  twenty-nine  days,  from  Noveoiber  9rd 
until  April  23rd.     In  Oetobcr  it  rained  tiearly  every  day. 
llic  heaviest  and   moat  continuous  rain  always  oceu 
with  a  south -westerly  e<iuatorial    wind.    Coming  f>om  th 
Atlantie,  and   havtnj;   traversed    a  great  extent  of   tha 
Meilit'-minean,  from  Gibraltar  to  the  Ouif  of  GvnoA,  thia 
snulh-wcsti^Hy  wind  impinges  on  the  shore  in  8ueci.>mive 
UsfW  hiden  with  mnistui-e,  which    i»   precipitated  in   ira> 
mente  quantities  as  in  the  tropicn.     It  is  also  with  these 
galea  that  are  sccu  the  heavie«l  M;as. 

It  very  oAen  rains  on  the  mountain!',  or  a  few  miles  out 
at  «<-a,  when  it  iii  quite  dear  and  fme  on  and  mar  the  sea- 
shore. In  the  former  ea-e,  the  wind  is  pi-neraUy  a  soutJtem 
wind,  anil,  as  it  aKrend<'  the  mountain,  tt  evidently  miMlta 
witli  colder  slralit  of  air,  nhii:h  preeipitale  itn  nioisluie, 
f  r.»iii  cIpiikIs,  I  have  repeatedly  sat  on  the  niiMin- 
«  and  watcliod  a  eurrent  of  warm  air  rise  from  tJie 


PHYSICAL  OEOGRAPnV  AND  METEOROLOGV.      69 


BOB,  «t  a  disUnce,  forni  at  fir»t  a  vapour  on  the  shore,  and 
ttii'D  n  whitf  ctotid,  t^Jnsily  :iscendin|;  the  mountain.  It 
.  ix  Kingulur  to  mx  thi;  emiill  cloiiil  thiie  epriii^,  as  it  were, 
rrom  tJw  wave*  near  iho  coiist-lin«,  gTiuliully  vxpHnding 
anil  eiilar^iiu  m  it  creeps  up  tJie  mountain -side.  I  waa, 
■tideed,  lorcibly  r«miiided  of  iJie  tisherman  in  the  Arabian 
tale,  wbu  opeita  a  caekul  on  the  sM-etiorv,  from  wliich  tho 
tfuut  iaauca  io  the  fonn  of  a  thin  vapour,  which  rupidly 
MGomes  a  oloud,  nowrin^  the  horixoii. 

A  more  reverent  sud  more  striking  illuiilrAtion  at  this 
nluMionenon  k  to  Im  found  in  the  history  of  the  prophet 
Klyab,  in  MUvred  writ  (1  Kin){i<,  ehiip.  xviii.),  "Au<l  he  mid 
tobisservBut,  GoupDow,  loolicliiwnitU  tiieMa  ....  and  it 
came  to  pass  at  the  seventh  time,  that  he  said,  Bc-hoM, 
then-  oriRvtU  n  little  cloud  out  of  the  sea,  lik«a  man's  hnnd. 
Aad  be  aaid,  (Ju  up,  e:iy  unto  Ahab,  Prepara  thy  ehuriot, 
md  get  tbee  down,  thnt  the  ruin  )iti>p  theo  not  And  it 
vixme  to  piass  in  the  iiitMiitvliili',  that  the  heAven  U'as  black 
with  clouds  and  wind,  and  there  was  a  great  niin." 

The  rain,  in  tlieee  instanees,  is  often  oontined  to  the 
upper  niuuntaiuD,  and  incrpiisea  the  volume  of  toircnUi  and 
rivulets,  nltJiunijh  it  may  remain  ijuito  tine  at  and  srouud 
Meutunc,  as  uliw  on  thit  nva  horizon. 

When,  on  the  contrary,  it  rains  a  few  miles  out  at  sea, 
wl)il»t  there  is  fine  dry  weather  at  Mentoue,  the  wind 
Ifcnvrtdly  eomot  from  the  contniry  direction,  from  the 
nurlh.  The  cold  north  wind,  pasttinK  overhead,  impinges 
ujHin  thta  sea  somu  diHtuncv  from  the  tiliore,  mw>ting  warmer 
utuiiwphetic  strata.  Dark  banks  of  clouds  thus  lonn  on 
Iht'  horixon  and  rain  falls  ^•verul  milea  from  the  coa«t. 
In  cither  caw  tJM  coacl  led^  tn»y,  and  ollon  does,  enjoy 
a  happy  iuimunity. 

Tile  uvera<^'  fall  of  rain  at  Ntee  U  25  inches.  1  pre- 
Munie  Uial  the  unnuul  full  at  Meutone  tt  greater,  from  its 
being  lurruundvd  by  niuuntsins  on  all  sidea  but  the  south, 
the  southnjiut,  and  «outh-weet.  Aceordiug  to  Iloulnudi, 
the  author  of  a  vuluahlc  work  on  the  clinute  of  Nice,  the 
Hver4;^  Qumber  uf  niiny  days  at  Nioe  is  sixty.  M.  du 
Brvu,  a  native  and  resident  of  Mentone,  and  a  gentloniun 
or  hi^h  «L-i«:ulitic  atlMnments,  has  published  a  mvtCOTolo- 


70 


THE  BIVIERA   ASD  MBNTOSK. 


■ 


ginl  tftkle,  TouiMlnt  on  ten  ^nn'  Dl>»«mlton,  rrom  ISSl 
to  1^1.  According  to  h»  ex|>erien«e,  lh«  avenge  numl>er 
of  days  or  nighte  (luring  which  it  rained  littl«  or  niiK-li  «t 
Mcntone  is  8(1,  or  20  moTC  than  at  Nice.  We  may  )>r<- 
»inio,  tlicrorore,  that  thv  full  o(  rain  in  grrat^,  although 
tlic  conavquencn  u  not  neerstnTy.  At  (Inieiiwich,  the 
av«ra^  rainbll  is  only  2^  iuoht-s,  yet  th«  niin)l>er  of| 
raiiiy  <Iaye  is  155.  At  Tortjuay,  the  averap?  number  of ' 
miiiy  days  w  ahu  155.  At  nm,  th«  avcra;^-  rainfall  i*  43 
inclie»;  ruiny  dayf,  110.  At  Maliign,  Die  numlx-r  oi'  rain^ 
days  la  only  4U  (Francta).  At  Madeira,  tlie  rainfall  ta 
variable ;  the  average  about  30  inehcs,  the  rainy  daya  SS 
(Dr.  White). 

llic  principnl    rninfnil    taVrs  place  at  tlio  aiituinn  and 
apring  viiiiinKXcy.    In  iiiituinn  the  mm  i*  descending  towards 
the  etjuator,  and  drags  the  south- westerly  winds  with  him. 
Ttio  north  wiud  takes  advantage  of  the  opportunity  of  tlia 
weakening  of  ila  adverwir>-'s  foroee,  and  gives  battle.   From 
the  oi4li«ii>n  follow  tears  in  the  shape  of  rain,  tliundcr,  uid 
lighlnitig,  nntur\;'it  artillery.      The  result   U  then  nliraya 
the  nine,  the  north  n-itid   in  vietoriou*,  drivi^  the  nouth 
wind  towards  the  tropies  on  the  trace  of  ita  geiiersl,  tlia 
ma,  and  winter  is  ev^tahliahed.     At  the  spring  eipiiuox  all 
is  reversed.     It  is  the  north  wind  that  i«  in  possession,  and 
the  BOdth  wind  that,  advancing  with  its  geiieml,  the  stinyJ 
from  tiie  er|uatoT  towards  the  north,  gtvea  battle.     OneoJ 
more  lorrenls  of  rain  fjll,  once  more  thunder  and  li;;htnin)(  i 
announce  the  Reroo  oontAsl  of  the  elemcntn.     This   time,. 
however,  it  is  tJi«  constantly  reinf»rue<l  lallaliun*  from  t3>i) 
■oulh  that  are  viclnrioiiii,  the  north  wind  la  driven  back, 
and  summer  »  once  nmre  eetubli^hed. 

Thin  explanation,  although  more  paelical  than  8cien- 
tilie,  of  the  equinoxes  anil  of  Die  cau^o  of  the  hravj'  rains 
that  then  Jtill,  is  ftriclly  correct.  Thwe  raitm  art;  the 
rmtit  of  a  eontest  hutw«eu  the  north  and  south  winds,  in 
OOntMxion  with  the  sun's  path,  dceuending  to  and  ascend* 
iiig  frttm  ihe  equator. 

The  amount  of  ruin  that  falls  does  not  so  mueJi  charao*] 
ttrini  the  cliuiatc  of  u  locality  as  the  niannvr  in  which  il 


niVSICAL  OEOORAPUY  ASD  MBTEOROI.OGV.      71 


falls.      At   Mentone,  is  at   Nite,  aiul   alon;;  the   entire 

Uvwra,   Uioroug))l>-  cloudy  tlayo,  and   <liiy8  or  iitwt^Dt 

ptiin,  am   nn.     Tticy  do.   Iiuwcvlt,  occur  uccjiKKirinlly  in 

tb«  wiiilvr,  iiririciikilly  iit  tin'  aiitiiniit  iiixl  ii|iriiigfi|n:ni>xt'ti, 

and  ^Piit^riUlv  n'itli  curitiiiut^d  Mititlierly  vritidK.     Tlie  xky  in 

tlieo  i|uilL'  iibeijiiri:d,  hu  Lliut  llic  sun  is  not  seen,  ns  in  iho 

norlli,  aiw]  ruin  miiy  fall  for  ei.'V4:nil  diiya  nnd  iii<;ht«.     But 

|tl)M  tUi<m  nut  iwiially  lake  |i1ik:u  inori.'  tli'Hi  two  or  thrau 

ttiniuH  iti  tli«  oountu  of  t)a>  winlcr.     Many  iucUv*  »(  rain 

|£ill  ui)  lli«so  oooftgiun^,  lltorongtdy  woxkin^  the  ground. 

AHi'f  Iw't)  or  thrvc  days,  llii.*  eluudi)  dHiierse,  ttie  sun  shines 

l'|>i>rlli,  and  u;;aiu  catY-vnr  throii<;h  a  cUar  hluo  sky,  tiki-  ii 

[yaxiti;;  lirv.      tn  »  (ew  huuni  tlic  ;;ruitnd  )H-coriitv  dry,  and 

Lmuty    dnva   uT    un)iit4:rni|)tvd    Hiiiiahinu    )j>'ni-riilly    Ibllow, 

[iluritig  vvhioh  ooUdiior  life  goes  on  as  durin);  a  fine  rainless 

slunber  with  ns. 

Then)  an,  thiin,  two  rainy  smsons  on  tli«  Rivioru:  tljo 
[aiituiunal  citiinox,  at  .the  Inttor  end  of  Si-|)tvmU-r,  and 
liluriii;;  OctiiUir,  and  tli«  vi-nial  iM]iiinox,  in  .Miiruh, 
lviidin)|r  with  the  tinit  wwk  of  A|iril.  'Iliu  nut  mm  ml  miny 
Mrason  ia  rather  trro^jular  in  itii  ]>frio>livity.  it  usually 
occurs  uodur  Uio  inlUii'noe  of  s(iuth>wcat(.-rly  (jfalum,  and 
i-xtwnds,  mora  or  l»e,  into  MovemWr.  'ilic  r;iiiii>  <lo  not 
ImC,  in  iniol  Miiil«r«,  more  th.ui  tlii'w  or  four  wct-Ln,  iin<l 
that  not  cxniiniioitKly.  TliC  ri-itt  of  thu  tvintcr,  iiiilil  the 
•prinjfi  is  ueni^ndly  dry  iiimJ  line,  under  the  iutlueni'i'  of 
the  northerly  winds,  with  the  cxL-c|iti»D  of  a  few  ooi-^isiuiiid 
tlayfi  uf  ruin,  when  the  wind  turns  lo  eoutticrn  quiii-t^.-ra. 
Ilwvy  rain  a^iiiu  falls  in  th«  lattvr  halt*  of  Miireli,  with 
(uitith-w'Mtvrly  or  si>utl)-«u»terty  g:i\e»  and  »toriiiM,  as  in 
niiitht-rii  Kuro|>V.  TlH-se  raiid  Kitunitu  the  earth  and 
r>!ucw  thu  spring;  under  thuir  fosterint;  inlhicnuo,  and 
with  the  hi'lir  u(  the  ard«ut  sun,  which  dhim.'e  through  the 
I'U'ur  dry  attnuojthcrt),  vt^tativn  tlMiU  advoiwcs  with  nur- 
giriaiiii;  nij>i<tity. 

As  in  iiluj{l.uid,  nnd  in  mutfl  other  rc;;i»n8,  the  E«.i.v>n8, 
and  more  o«in;ci4lly  the  winter,  vary  in  did'erent  years, 
K'l  that  it  is  (lillicuU  to  (nrin  a  ourr^^ot  i>iiiuion  IVou)  the 
■x|K'ruine«  of  any  o»o  yuur.      Thont  ure  winters  during 


TIIK   nn'IEEA  AND  MENTONE. 


which   south -westerly   winds   prevail,   often   clonJiii<; 
Fky  iintl  brin[rinGf  rain,  at  inlervnis,  throui^hont  the  wintCT. 
Surh  wt-rtt  thi)  wirittrs  of  186-1-05  and  of  ISi«8-69. 

During  tlic  summer  but  tittle  or  no  ruin  faWit.  In  noinsj 
y^ars  the  druiiglit  laulK,  without  ce^tation,  for  six  or  seven 
months,  from  April  or  May  to  October  or  November. 
Thence  the  nbsolute  necessity  of  tanks  for  the  irriftntton  of 
the  Icrnfiii  iind  orange- trceic,  whicli.ius  we  hiive  »talwl,  eannot 
Uirivennil  hour  fruit  without  irriipitiun  <lurin|r  the  dry  seaaon. 

The  enceptionol  ilryneoa  of  the  aummer  uloni;  tJie  Iliviom, 
in  the  eouth  of  France,  in  Spain,  and  in  the  Slciliterrniifcaii 
generally,  ts  explained  by  the  I'act  that  this  [;reat  iiiUnd  , 
Mra  lien  on  the  norllieru  limit  of  ihnt  part  of  the  earth's  J 
surface  to  which,  in  physical  t?(nt;niphy,  is  given  the  namaj 
of  "  the  rainlenn  tract."      Tiie  highest  expre^ioii  of  thic 
rcfpon  is  the  desert  of  Sahara,  which  continues  t)t»M.'  of 
Arabia  and  Central  Asia.     The  )>rinci)iul  cause  of  their  ex)»- 
Icnce  in,  no  doiiltt,  tljc  passni-e  of  noi-th-eaitterly  winds  orerj 
AniN  and  southern  Kuropu  during  the  entire  yisir,  either  as 
upper  or  surf^ice  eurrmli^     Thi-^c  wind:',  passing  over  coa- 
lineiitd  and  ^reat  chains  of  mountains,  frraduully  Ineo  their 
moisture,  until  they  have  but  little  to  Wstow  on  the  re<nons 
they   reach  in  the  more  advanced  stage  of  their  pnigrcsv, 
ami  ibc  lutter  eonsi^qu«nl)y  become  dry  regions  or  descr 
for  want  of  nin. 

The  winds  that  course  over  the  earth's  surface  may  be 
divided  into  two  principal  currents.  The  one,  from  Iho 
poIcK  to  the  r<{Uator  ;  the  other,  a  leliirn  current  from  the 
I'tpiutor  to  the  pules.  Owing  to  the  earth's  diurnal  motion 
of  rolutiiin,  the  wind  from  tlie  jiokw  to  the  equutdr  t.ikes  a 
slantiuji;  easterly  direction;  that  from  the  cijuutor  to  the 
[lolef,  a  westerly  one.  TIiun,  in  the  northern  hemisphere 
the  wind  from  the  pole  to  the  equator  is  a  north  east  wind;: 
that  IVum  the  equatur  to  the  pole  a  south-ivesterly 
From  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  or  from  iibuut  latitude  30*,  W 
the  eijiiatorial  region,  the  norlh-cunt  wind  is  always 
finrfiicc  wiml,  and  cuuistitulcM  the  nortli.east  trade,  irotn 
the  pule  to  the  tropic  the  systemic  north-east  wind  ts  cither 
iin  upper  current  or  a  surliice  one,  according  to  soafions  »t  ~ 
other  inlluences. 


Pm-SICAL  OBOOKAPHY  AND   METKOROLOOV.      73 


The  titVM>tint>  of  liigh  moantiiia  citiiiiis  in  the  «<)iiUi  or 
Euriipe,  iiikI  ilje  rnrelWtion  of  llii!  atm(i»]il)i;iv  I>y  Nun-heat 
in  till-  |>(eat  Mi-(lit«rraiionn  basil),  bolK  uoutribute  to  bring 
the  upftrr  tiorili-i.'ast«rly  eystcmic  wind  to  the  lower  sttiuo- 
apbcric  rf;;ions  uixl  to  miiku  il  a  t^iirract;  wind  diiriii-;  n  grc-at 
jH>rtion  dI'  ll>e  yitir  in  tlm  MudiUtrruiimii  rejpcni.  Tlic  xuulh- 
vreat«Hy,  or  nnssagv  return  windn,  wliicli  are  nil  but  coH- 
stant  in  the  North  Atlantic  Ouenn,  conwquenlly  redch  the 
vborrs  nl*  Enn>]»o,  to  the  north  of  tin'  Mt.-([iti>ri-nni-)iii  li-v«l, 
tliiriiit;  lilt  f^valcr  part  of  th«  year.  Tlii-y  brinjj  inoi*tiire 
and  mill  »ith  tbrm,  und  thoifi.^  tliv  vitry  ntiny  cliiiiaU;  of 
ilritUaiiy,  NiTmaiidy,  and  of  the  aoiitb  anil  wl-hI  ctmist  of 
Knglund.  In  winter  the  trade  winda,  folluwinif  the  deelen- 
eion  of  ttic  euti  towards  th«  ty|tiat4ir,  desccud  south  ;  thi-ee 
iMUth-wmt  wiridtt  re]>laoc  them,  ittid  thueidi.«ce[id  tutliu  must 
southern  lalitudcn  of  Kuro|iL>.  Thv  proKvtice  of  tJivac  aouth- 
weflterly  wind^  iit  luwcr  laliludes  oi  n  iiil«r  approaches  seems 
t^i  \k-  the  principal  oauBe  of  the  autuiniiat  raiii§  in  the  south 
of  I'runoe,  Spain,  and  in  the  Mediterranean  basin  generally. 
Mniiry,  in  his  interesting  work  on  tlie  "  Physiail  Geo- 

Eraphy  of  thv  S«nf,''  attriwitrs  tJie  vxiBt>.^nov  of  tin:  "  rain- 
w  tract"  in  A»iii  and  Etiropu  to  tlio  inl1ucn(>e  of  the  Andes 
or  CordilleniH  of  South  Aiiieri<u. 

According  to  tliia  view,  the  south-east  trade  winds  of  the 
southern  heini^pliere,  alXer  sweepm;;  thv  wide  Eurliico  of  t)io 
Athinlic;,  and  bccomint'  perfectly  finlurak-d  wtth    moislnre, 
rvaoh  the  continent  of  South   Aiuvriuit   below  the  eiptalor  ; 
they  ciuNN  it,  and   meet  the  huge  inutiiilain  burner  uf  the 
Andes,  ascending  its  ct»teni  aides  to  an  eiiuruous  elevation, 
■varying  from  fourteeu  to  twenty  tboneand   fiet.     The  ex- 
[iramA  ooldncH  of  the  upper  r«t;ionti  of  ttie  Andii-  WiIk  to 
rth*  prsctpitalion  of  tho  moisture  which  the  wiii<l<  contain  — 
^K|DiWBe«  it  out  of  tht-m.    Thence  the  origin  of  the  iniineiiHv 
rivera  which  doK'vnd  from  the  eastern  shiiwiiof  these  moun- 
tains, such  as  tlie  Atnaxou  and  tho  Oiinoco,  two  of  the 
i  largost  rivers  In  the  world. 

Tbcso  nx'iel  soitth-eaiiter^y  Atlaotiu  trades,  nflvT  thns 
prrcipilating  tJieir  moisture,  become  dry  wind».  In  tho 
r<|uaU)rial  ealms  they  cross  the  nortli-ea»l  tradiw,  ascend  l^i 
the  ti^|M:r  rejjious  of  the  atiuo^pherej  aud  then  dix«el  liieir 


74 


THE   RIVIERA    AND   MESTONE. 


entin't'  to  the  narth-eiwt,  ax  na  njii'cr  soutb<w«st  current.  ■ 
Kn'roKxiDi;  tliu  Suiith  Ainerkun  eantinent,  tlicy  Tvach  Clio 
AtUntio,  sDi)  croM  it,  still  as  an  ajt/jer  sodlh-wwl  curriyni^ 
for  llie  noilli-i-ai^terly  trudes  occ-ii|))-  thw  *urfaeo  ol'  the  i 
AtlRDtic  liL-tu\'cii  ilnf  30th  dcfra-c  i>i'  Intitixle  and  the  «|Iib. 
toi'uil  i-almx.  Alinvi.'  the  iiurtlivin  limit  of  the  trades  Ihuy 
ajniin  htviitne  imifnee  v,-iiid»,  and  ci>uetitiit«  tlir  cuutl^ 
weelerly  or  [issan^^  (viuds  of  North  Afrit-ii  iind  ol  Kunnia, 
Bvticliiii;;  the  nurlh>western  coci«<t  of  ATnai,  utill  as  diy 
winds — (or.  as  wv  hnvc  kccu,  they  liiivi;  piuwod  the  Atlnntio 
lis  u  dry  upper  current  to  the  norlli-rtt*lt'rn  trades — they 
have  HO  ntnii^tdru  tr>  \^\\i:  to  ii  Ivvel  wuriiice,  .ind  them-c, 
nccording  lo  ihia  tliwirj',  the  dentrt  of  Saliani,  mid,  in 
summer,  the  dryiie^  orsoiilhein  Kurope. 

The  liiet  of  the  MciliterniDi-aii  Boulh-wentrrfy  wind   in 
KiiRitiier  hi-iti|;  a  dvy  South  Amenatii  Kmilhwust  wind  which 
hua  jias^iod  uvtr  the  Atlantic  uii  iiii  upper  current  to  tlia 
north-east  trades,  is  proved,  nccordiug  to  Maury,  hy  &  very 
siilguliir  nuturul  lact.    OceasioikiUy,  hem  tinio  imnicmorinl,! 
a  kmi]  of  red  dtirt  settli-s  on  the  ilcfkH  biitl  tai\*-  ol'  vi-<»rU 
ill  thi.-  Mvdit4.Trunviin  inul  mi  its  isbiiilK  mid  Khoi\-9>.     Suh- 
mitt<-d  recenlly  to  mit^r«hi-opie  t-siiuiinatiun,  it  has  heen 
diseovi>rv<t  that  thin  dunt,  whieh  wuji  sup|i<iBed  to  ooiiie  from 
tlw  Afrienii  deceits,  is  uoinpoavd  of  the  microocopic  shell* 
of  ilifuFoiia  which   inhahit  the   itruKils,  the  dried  ituutince| 
hedn  i>r  tlie  irihut^irif*  i)f  t,li«  Amnzoii  imd  Oriiioi-o.     The 
furious  Mxith- westerly  dry  wiihI  of  thcKC  iv;>ioiis  evidenUjri 
raises   Uiem   up  un   iuipulpiihk-   diut,    \\nii*   thetn  acroi«l 
the  Atlantic  as  an  uppL'r  oiLTCiit  to  the  uoith-eiu>l  triuhvj 
and  iiiiiilly  dc)>i>r-it6  llii-ni   in  summer  on  the  C'npu  Vcrda< 
Iklaitdit  and  ^lediterrancan   Sea,  on  Sicily,  on  Malta,  and 
OD  the  (ircoiuu  Arrhip'-la^.     Maury  kiokit  upon  this  fitcb 
ax  conclusive  evidence  of  the  crossinjf  ol'  iho  M>uth-eaalerly 
and  noil h- easterly  trades  in  iheunlm  n.-'jionaof  the  equator, 
and  of  their  return  to  the  north  and  imjiiih  poles  as  eoulli-rJ 
uoKierly  and    iinrth-wt-stcrly   winds.     In    winter,   lis   th« 
northuiii   limit  of   the  trudc-wi ^iils   is  lower,  llieKc  iip|>vr 
current!)  dtvccnd  at  a  lutver  lulitude  in  the  Alhinliv,  iiu< 
I'Ciieh  the  ileditcrranean,  »ui  a*  dry  wimlx,  huX  ua  muisb 
wnler-ludeD  south -westeilv  winds. 


t 


pnYSlCAL  GEOORAPUY  AND  METtXlBOLOGV.      75 


t 


During  the  ^tieea  wiDtera  that  I  kave  jae^ed  at  Men- 
t^no,  livint;  in  the  «aateni  hay,  I  have  never  scon  n  fo^, 
rithiT  Hi  tfcH  or  liind,  diiy  or  nii;lit,  morning  or  l^vvllil)^, 
i-'Xi  o]iL  00  one  wicaKioa  early  in  May.  TiuK  t'lict  in  the  more 
reinurkable,  as  ou  my  lintt  vi^il  U>  C»raica,  in  the  mouth 
of  April,  ISSi,  lor  several  days  there  was  n  &eH-f'oi»  all 
rouuU  the  islanJ.  It  ro$«  to  alwut  thirty  Tout  abovo  the 
•M  iir  nh'jn.',  tlif  wuathcr  l>«in<;  heuutil'ul  anil  sunny,  itnd  I 
Vtaa  told  by  |MMC»i;frH  on  IxMin)  the  uteamer  Imm  Mar* 
willcs  to  Ajacoio  that  it  eslimduil  from  one  port  to  the 
iitturr.  The  followinj;  explanation  given  mo  by  my  lattf 
trirTiil  l'rolV«sor  Itngvie  I  boliove  to  lie  tli«  Iriiu  one: — 

WltonrvvT  till!  air  ooniu*  I'rom  tti«  htod  il  in  fritui  tlia 
nortb,  and  in  tliiH  re^i>>ii  it  i«  ko  very  dry  that  it  nlworba 
ftll  lite  molstitro  it  can  pnusihly  obt:uD  from  the  sea,  how- 
ovrr  low  its  femptratuiv,  without  forming  vnpour  or  fn-^, 
Wlioni;v«r,  on  tho  contrary,  the  uir  conuw  from  ibe  eoiith 
cii-  -ciitrnnltt,  both  it  tiiitl  tho  litntt  it  ri^tcbe*  aro  ho  warm 
tbul  it-<  cap-kcity  for  the  iib*or[it40ti  of  vapour  it)  iiulli>rierit 
b)  (liable  it  to  oaittinuc  to  ntlain  it  until  it  hm  rejiched  a 
CO  iiKi  lie  ruble  olevalion.  It  does  not,  therefore,  part  with 
inuitttire,  in  tJiu  form  of  fog  nr  cloud,  until  it  ha«  aKcviidcd 
th«  monntuin*  to  a  oonsidsrable  height. 

Wlii'it  tbi-  IxwoMt  cloudi  AK  Kvoral  thoosand  fuet  higher 
tlinti  thftr  summit,  the  atmoDpheriL-  dryness  tuurt  bo  very 
^TiMt.  Ill  the  iipiH^r  regions  of  tlie  sky,  above  the  m>>nn> 
tuiiiK,  am  often  Been  eligbt  fleec-y  masses  of  cirrus,  torn  and 
twitiecl  by  aerial  eurrrute,  which  rcflL-cl  in  the  muit  Wautilul 
manner  iJie  l>nght  ligtit  of  the  soiilhern  day.  Still  more 
bnaiitit'til  are  the  dcii^  muiweit  of  ciimuKiB  cloud  which  ara 
fiinpii-nl  ly  He«n  hanu>ing  over  the  high  motiutains  of  Coraics, 
ou  th't  •^oiith •easier II  bori&>n,  anehorod,  as  it  wort-,  to  lb<.^ir 
»iiinnii(H.  Tuvvjinls  «nnHL-t  lliey  aro  olU-n  ting-'il  wiiU 
glorioiu  line*  rvlluiUsl  from  tJie  we»U  The  brilli.iney  "f 
thc?>e  doiid*,  lloattn^  in  the  npper  n'giona  of  a  serene,  clear 
attnimplivre,  oflen  several  miles  above  the  earth,  ie  jmrtl/ 
owing  t«  titeir  being  oumposed  of  snow.  OncO  the  re^jion 
of  ct4-rnal  xnow  is  n-nched, — in  this  latiluile  about  ^'il;ht 
lliiiiiMind  fiNil  high, — llit^  cIoh'Ih  lhem>eUe»  li(i';oiii<!  cun- 
{{calMl,  and  lloat  in  tho  air  a*  niiitaek  of  dowuy  suow. 


76 


THE  RIVIERA   AND  ME.STONB. 


Generally  speaking  the  iiky  ie  clear,  and  llie  nun  thint 
ill  the  hi'avens  like  a  globe  of  fire.     Even  on  cloudy  (l»y 
the  nun  is  ofton  seen,  and  its  power  felt.     So  ponerftil  are' 
its  rayw  nlivn  the  sky  a  clviir  titnt  vreii  in  l>vcvii)lx.'r  ur 
Jnnuqry  it  U dtfii^rrceahli!  tii  nolk  without  the  linvd  pMnwol, 
•o  generally  carried  in  the  Euat.    The  use  of  these  parasols 
w  not  confiDed  to  ladies,  few  t^ntlcmeo  braving  the  ran 
without  them.     They  nre  a  |)o«ilivt  want,  and  tho«v  vilta^ 
objeut  la  their  use  itt  firet  gvt  hcadaebr,  and  arc  sure 
adopt  them  before  long.     Those  who  have  lived  in  tnkptnit 
climates  ollen  a^suroe  the  peculiar  headgear  uiied  in  India 
M  a  prottfction  against  the  Biin. 

Snnshiiie  w  quite  Oi)rin*iit   in  the  t^outh  of  Enrope  to 
what  it  i«  in  Kuglund  und  the  uorth-wcst  of  Kurope.     In 
our  climate  the  air,  even  in  eummer,  is  lilted  with  watery^^ 
vapour,  whid),  tm  we  have  seen,  gives  a  whitish  hue  to  tbl^H 
»ky  in  July  or  Auj^uet.and  mitigates  the  power  of  the  ftiin's      i 
nys.   In  the  Medilcrnincun  rt^^iou  it  is  olherwise.    Tn  tine      | 
weather,  winter  or  tiummcr,  the  »ky  i«  of  a  banl  Uu--,  nnd 
ohjectji  ut  II  iIikUiikv  of  many  miles  are  »een  elearlv  and 
distinctly,  without  any  of  that  base  which  forms  so  peculiar 
fl  feature  in  an  English  landl^cape.     Imm«dialely  hehiiMl 
IIk-  house  where  I  reside  rtsei)  a  mounUiin,  the  Bcrcean, 
the  higher  jwak  of  which  in  »>>oO  feet  high.     It  is  mdc- 
mlly,  throughout  the  \t  inter,  peifectty  free  fnint  filoud*, 
und  seems  so  near  that  niithing  hut  al.sohite  ha ro metrical 
mciisurvmont  convinced  me  of  it<i  real  ht^ight;  tlie  i^ummit 
doe*  not  apwair  to  the  eye  to  W  more  than  £500  feet  above 
the  aea  level  at  tlie  very  utmoot.    Indeed,  tliL«  moitntain,  an 
welt  oa  ita  neighboars  and  oominnious,  may  be  considered 
firrt-rate  hygromet^ra.   llie  position  of  the  clouds  above  ita 
peaks,  or  on  its  llnnks,  indicates  in  the  most  unmistakeablu 
manner  the  defp-ee  of  dryncNi  of  the  atmoxpherc.     If  wc 
nUoulate  1°  of  dilferencc  between  the  wet  and  dry   bulb 
tliermometcr  for  each  300  feet  of  elevation   from  the  sea 
lere),  free  from  etoud,  there  must  bo  above  1 S'  of  drj  ness  jg^j 
the  apper  atmospheric  stnta  for  this  mountain  to  be  viitii'elflH 
free  from  clouds  and  ini«t.  *'' 

The  great  dryntMof  thcatmoitphereis  proved  by  another 
intvreetiDg  meteorologicul  phenomenon.     Even   when  the 


A 


rnVStCAI-  CKOORAPHY  ASD  METEOHOLOOY.      77 


wind  ia  i»  tb»  eontli,  and  rain  ia  fitUin^  in  lorrontf,  thvni 
U  often  ■  conBiderable  diHWrcnce  belweun  tin;  wi-t  «nd  ilry 
bulb  ihyrmomctiT  (iVom  tlirec  to  fonr  or  five  decrees).  Tin, 
min  a|»pi'»n>  tu  be  liirmed  in  tliv  uppvr  ntnioBplionc  ro^omS 
»ml  to  foil  t1irntifi;li  Ute  air  willinul  satii rutin);  it.,  its  <H:cun^ 
in  nnrtliem  oliinntes.  When  siicli  ia  the  casu  Ihure  ia 
mit  ttiut  re«lin|^  of  dumpni-Ks  usnnlly  experii'nced  when  mill 
rdlx  in  thf  nnrtb,  iiiiil  i-lii-Ht  invulidn  arc  tiot  oppressed  as  in 
inoiitfr  ctimnte*. 

There  are  ttiiia  many  inHuencea  that  0»mbin«  to  render 
th«  ntni<wph«rv  dry  in  winter  :  llie  prvvnloncc  of  northerly 
(fintU,  tbv  gKnl  |Kiwvr  of  thv  mm,  the  l'rc-«?dum  from  fo;;, 
thi>  KnutI]  number  of  rainy  daya,  and  the  drv,  rnuky  chu- 
r»ct<;r  of  llie  Boil.    This  drynesa  of  the  air  is  tlluntrutod  l»yj 
the  fiK-t  that  wH  linvn  dritf,  out  of  thu  ann,  in  a  ithort  timffff 
at  any  i)^riwl  of  the  wint*^.^!"'!)!  when  it  ruins  or  theeky 
in  iilmnirol,   Throii;{li(>ut  tin;  winter  it  ia  puaxible  to  sit.  out 
(if  diiorH   Tor  many  hours  al  a  time,  anj  for  many  d:iy« 
lottethiT,  in  annny  abeltered  apota.    This  1  am  in  the  liabit 
of  lining  inyMlf,  eviTy  wint«r.  in  Iviaiiro  houra     I  merely 
a  ajiot  aheltcr^d  from  tho  wind,  at  the  foot  of  a  wall^ 
,  or  Olive-tree,  nnd  cx|>o<Aed  to  the  aun,  front  which  it] 
ta,  however,  j^nemlly'  uecewary  to  hv    pri>t«cted  \>y  a  lin^J 
paraaol.     U'ltliout  Ihi*  precaution  the  position  would  ofteol 
l>e  (|iiite  untenable.     A  therm omeb^r  in  mich  n  aitiintion, 
in  the    ahade,   ttenerally  marks  from  GU°  to  Ql".      At  the 
luiin^r'a  fei't,  and  around,  are  nlwaya  insects,  uttracled  in 
rocky  |>!acv»  by  ihv  miutMv  of  wild  Ihyniu,  and   by  other 
Bowera. 

There  i»  a  (treat  ebarm  in  thua  readin;;  and  musing  for 
houfB,  rfpucially  with  agrefahlc  companions,  sciitccl  on  the 
IfTound  in  aome  lovely,  «unny,  pii-lnmNiuc  nook,  anch,  for 
inHlnnoe,  ua  llic  western  coiwt  of  the  Ciip  Martin,  or  the 
warm  tetracea  of  the  eaatcrn  bay,  Nothint;  la  more  itivi);<)< 
ratioff  or  refrcahing  to  the  invulid.  Indwd,  this  laxiirone 
enjiiym«nt  in  midwintt^r  of  aun'thine,  air,  and  Hi>.>ncry  ia 

ueii  more  benvfieial  for  invalida  and  uj^ed   penoua  than 

ntt  tiring  walks. 

V\  hiUt  N|>Ciikini7  of  inKocte  I  mnst  mention  that  one  of 
tlm  cliarma  of  the  elimiite  in  that,  not>t'ithataudi»<r  Ihu 


01   unii 


78 


TSK  mtrtEHA   AJTD  mSTTONX 


w  worth 


mitect« 
first  c>IJ 

l^ve  aTti6«aUjr  mil  iruitcr  1>t  iKe  rooBu  I^O^  ni4iiitnilti-(l 
at  k  bt(*fa  temprtrntnre.     If  tbey  are  fed  >t  at;:ht.  ami  tliua 
kept  warm  ia  the  ilav,  Xhtj  nrnj  live  OD  iiHlefiiiiUly.    Tills 
imimmity  ■  owtofr  to  tbc  ircMni  ecoh—  of  ibc  ni^it 
fanmvnlni*.   Pnvlaa*  to  tbc  first  eeld  nights  to  NunrmWr 
flr   Dccrnbcr,  in   tbe  ■BtDnm,  tlie  maMjaitiNsi  an-   vi-ry 
tiottllwpine,  owing  to  the  U^b  \mag  ceneraily  fcirnished 
with  ctirlatui  whkh  are  do  protection  wlmtever.     Tti«-y  ar« 
BMially  open,  ati<]  of  too  dosr  ■  matcriml  fur  it  not  to  IMw 
ioaoffmibl;  rl>w«  when  ther  «rv  broof^ht  t(^eth«r.     It  i^H 
qaite  worth  in  tnvaltd's  while  to  bsve  refpilw  net  moeouitd^ 
cnrtaittf,  eueb  m  are  meii  in  India,  taaAo  on  arrinJ.    Onoe 

ktboy  ban  diuppesred,   the  taoM}ailoc«  <lo  not   nappcar 

Sliltil  Miminflr. 

Acconiiti;;  to  M.  (Ic  'Rita'*  ^UXul'vai,  omiltiiiEF  tho  friic- 
tiona,  the  aunuul  number  of  lin«  ilays  in  which  the  i<iin 
shines  without  ciouda  is  214;  the  nnmber  ofdajre  in  whief 
thv  sun  tihinn  with  clouds  is  45  ;  and  the  uumber  of  daw 
in  wliii'h  thr  kuo  i>  not  neen,  the  oky  l)^in^  coiiijili-ti-iy 
tifu-'itrfd,  without  uin,  is  24.     To  which   we  may  add 

'dnye  of  rain,  ttU,  mnny  in  part  stmshiuv. 

TliL-nsiny  diija  principnlly  occur, as  wchnvcscen, Ix-tW' 
the  montlis  of  October  ainl  May ;  whilst  iu  snmmer,  thviv  ■ 
eomeliintv  not  a  dm]>  of  rain  for  montlis  together.     11: 
winds  can  then  blow  from  the  sonth  without  their  vapoi 
being  oondrnscd  into  clouds  and   ruin  on   the   niounlai 
anmmtts  which  f>kirt  the  i.-ou>t.     Thi>  mnuiitiiiiiH  uro  ihifin* 
si'lvea  hi'nt«Ml  wilh  the  powerful  niysof  the  summer  sun,  mid 
the  wami  m-hurtiu  winds  mevt  cunroiite  slill  warmer  llinn 
thenutflvcs.     V.wn  \n  winter  a  very  Kcnllc  south  wind  from 
the  m.-ii   may    not   bring  cloud   and  rain.     All  its  super> 
abuiiilitnL   muiatura   may  Ira  at  oure  taken  up,  owing  to 
the  givnt  drj'iii'ss  of  tliu  eoliicr  motinlain  atmosphere. 

NottvilhHtiniding  the  niilOncKs  niid  sunny  bri^litncss  of 
'Vrnlht-r,  ycl  it  is  still  deotdvdly  winter  ul   Mi'lttunu 
'voviubvf  to  April, 


Pm'SICAL  OROOKAPIIY   AND  MeTROROLOGT.      "9 


Tlie  Di(;lilBBre  cUilly  duritifj;  foor  mnnOut— rrom  DtTcmWr 
to  April — tlic  tiieriuo meter  p?iierjlly  rullin^;  to  li«lvr<!i.'ii  10* 
nntl  51',  HJtli  stititli  winds,  and  witti  north  winiis  lu  lietwecit 
40*  ntKl  -16°,  KoPictimn  Uelow  40'.  lu  the  diijtitnu  it  w 
l^nrrally  oool  in  the  slindv,  ntid  out  of  the  tthwlc  wh^ii  tii« 
6UII  \f  ol'Bcuivd  \<y  clouds.  The  ordiuary  "  ehadu  maximuii)" 
vitrii-H  from  .il>'  lo  bG'  whvti  the  sun  ehinrs,  aod  (8  lower 
rlill  uriirti  it  doi-M  nut.  Ttir  tt-rn|>cnilUT«  nlwnys  fulls  as  soon 
n«  thv  Kiiti  diKipiiPim  or  itct*,  and  olWii  at  uooo  rviiohvK  tlitf 
miiiitniini  of  the  tivciity-four  hours,  owiii^,  no  doubt,  to  n 
«M>1  <lown  dran^^t  from  the  nKiuntains.  The  he4t  is 
evidrnlly  |>rodit>rr<l  by  the  dirvct  inlluuitce  of  the  sun.  In 
a  ualh  niom,  ivhc^ovvvr  Iho  xtiii  ia  on  tliu  room,  the  wiiiddiv 
aa  bv  h-ft  wide  open,  and,  without  it  fire,  the  tlieriminieifr 
will  p.-iii:ially  rommn  at  nbotit  GV;  hut  when  the  eiiii  dis- 
upju-nrslhi-  wiiiilowliau  to  U-  jmrlly  shut,  nnd  ehilly  |>fr»oiis 
rv<juiri'  u  ivihmI  tire.  In  iniddiiy  tht.'  iirrth  riwiiut  vu  tliti 
same  floor  are,  even  when  the  aim  nhinea,  four,  aix,  or  ei(;ht 
Acgjrvn  eiildrr  ihiiu  the  analh.  Even  hefurc  aunset,  an  soon 
o^  thf  Him  dtFtM|>]>ciirB  behind  the  mountains,  there  is  a 
,  dilfepcijcf  of  sis  or  i-ij-hl  deKr^rs  in  iho  teiiiprralHre  of  the 
MtmrHiiherf  if  northerly  win<iti  jirevail.  When  the  Biin  it> 
Ipennanrntly  olnwurf)!  hy  cl•>lnI^  the  air  ulWn  feels  chilly, 
even  with  a  Bouth  wind,  and  the  com]>laints  against  the 
weather  are  loud  nnd  numtrous. 

Tti<-so-c'iin|ihiiiit«  Mcm  jHirlly  to  1iav«  their  origin  in  (hu 

extreme  drprvmion  which  a|)|ieant  to  nltAvIc  the  entire  com- 

iminity,  Imt  inure  especially  the  invalids,  when  it  in  tlnu 

tstiKldy  nnd  wet,  and  wlien  the  sun   is  oincuied.     I  have 

lltoth  observL-d  lliiii  depr'-xsion  and  piiinfutly  ex]M-nenoed  it 

Iflivwrlf.      Ill  fUvU    wi-ather    most    of    im    an-   indiwerihiihly 

|.ii-retrhe<l  und   mini-table,     llien,  indwd,   we  lee)  vividly 

that  wo  are  ]M>ur  invalids,  exiles  from  home,  stranded  on 

the  sliorM  of  the  *trv«m  of  life.     But  with  the  return  of 

bn;*hl  kunahiny  wcathvr,  »l)  th«ae  gloomy  thoughts  dis- 

Lappi.-ar.      Oni»  more  wo  are  «>¥  ^nd  cheerful,  inclined, 

[indeed,    to    look  on  our  ilUheJuth   as  in  some  respects  a 

{Kisilivo  udvanliigo.     Is  it  not  the  nnne  of  our  beinj;  able 

iw  avuiJ    ih«   dreary    winl«r   of  our  norlheru   eluud-yirt 

ulimd '(      la  it   not   to  our  ill-health   that   we  owe  the 


oa  the 
i^  the  HwuiylnL.  al»tf»cu 
beat,  Md  c«gJ>  IW  nicr  wvAe.  Ib  a  diy  atmwplMV*  Kk* 
tJMt  uf  iW  Rmna,  humam  liMg  sn  no*  "  pNuos  jkn,'' 
um)  w«  ooaM  don,  bb  tfcc  water  tht  laUv  cMtaiii,  bi 
rapid  w^MMMioA.  Tbk  fact,  sad  tU  pbjvial  m! 
Mooool  for  tbe  ilwhili  •aecndj  of  vtiy  vann  dnlbi: 
■nd  for  tbe  apHUiBoe  of  tbe  iWiiirtiB  puiw  wbiefa  o(l 
follow  tbe  Bc^ikct  of  tbia  pcwaatioa. 

Tbe  McDtone  vi^cUtioo  dtowv  tbe  tofiBciuw  of  a  powrr 
ful  Mtn  vanDiDg  a  chiUv  ataioa|ibere.  Dccidooas  tivcs  lose 
titt-ir  IttiVM  in  December,  as  moo  as  the  Dtghls.  bnjome 
col'l,  unci  <t'i  not  rei;ain  tlirtn  BDtil  April,  vtbrn  tlwy  are 
Iwojiitiiig  wurnicT.  The  grem,  for«ct-likc  appettmnce  of 
the  l>illf  am)  vitlleya,  in  midwinter,  is  nwiug  etitirelv  to  the 
everyr"  I'll  Olivr,  OraDse.  Lemon,  and  Pine-trees,  The  few 
dcctdiiuu*  irttm  are  mere  dry  utick*  until  Ajiril.  Od  tlic 
other  hniid,  in  aheltered  siltuitionx  GxjKwcd  to  the  aouth, 
the  hcnt  of  Iho  sun  durintf  tlw  day  eo  warms  the  soil,  tbat 
it  liM  not  lime  to  con!  ut  night.  These  HtuntionB  tfaaa 
U'i'riiiir  re^fiiinr  forcinj^  huilH,  pnxlucin^,  iw  I  hiive  Mated, 
Viul»*t"  iti  I )c<'emlK*r,  Anemones  in  Januury,  and  all  our 
iitirt>ii<  tluwvm  eiirly  in  Fi?l)tunry.  Id  shady  sitiialiona, 
D  sun  dom  not  [lenotrattf,  the  ground- vc»vtiitioR 
oi'|ii(J,  liku  the  deciduous  tract,  till  March, 
Uto  MunuxpuM-d  looalitiea  luv  very  numerous 


PnVSICAL  OBOOBAPBY   AND  MKTBOROLOCy.      81 


tlie  it1)dt«red  lower  hills,  and   in  protected  vallvye,  nn-ay 
from  the  s«a^  the  grotiniUv^^tatioii  is  nil  the  wiDt«r  very ' 
liisuriaot  Bad  aboDdant,  oBerin}^  »iM)t  retiuurces  to  the 
botADul   and  Soriet.      Iud«et\  in  the  nurmer  valleys  tho 
only  wiot«r  u  on  the  tlwroutrlily  rniny  duve. 

From  what  precmlea,  it  will  W  iicrccivod  that  tlio  clta- 
ractemticfl  of  the  climate  of  Muntoni;  aud  of  the  Riviera, 
M  eviiU-tK'vd  during  the  fifteen  winters  I  have  spent  there, 
■n :  nh»cuc«  of  fioet,  protrulxnuo  of  Qottherly  winds,  ntodu- 
nte  dryness  of  the  atiiwtphvrv,  cumpk-to  iihueiive  of  to;;, 

iMiucily  of  rainy  dnys,  cluanie^  and  Uueuos*  uf  aky,  pinuntl 
ii.-at  and  bTtlluuicy  of  Eun,  a  coul  night  temperature,  a 
hravint;  coolniaia  of  the  atmotiiptiere,  and  a  mean  di&V-ronce 
of  12'^  tj'  Falir.  only  lietween  iho  <Jay  maxinium  and  l)ic 
Aii^t  minimum.  Kv«n  when  th«  Hun  is  ohseurvd  hikI 
laiu  falls,  as  the  wind  is  then  {(oner.'iUy  fix>m  the  floiilli> 
WMt  or  ihe  fiouth-nut,  it  is  not  cold,  at  any  period  of 
tho  winter.  On  tliu  nrc  tXH-usitms,  however,  wlien  it 
rains,  with  the  wind  from  a  northern  ijutirter,  there  may 
bo  a»  Hiijterahle  and  chilly  a  tilatc  of  thinjpi  ns  in  a  drixxlin;; 
Novecnlier  day  in  En^'^i"!-  ^^  i*"'"  '"'ly  falls  on  ■ 
vmall  number  of  days  in  winter,  and  then  otU-n  not  during 
Uiv  wliuUi  ilay,  and  a*  the  other  days  are  all  bat  uniformly 
bright,  dear,  aui]  aunny,  for  tivu  days  out  of  six, 
exereiM:  in  tlie  o]>cn  air  can  be  prudently  taken,  frorm 
uine  until  three,  four,  or  five,  aegctdiii;;  to  the  svuson,  n-Jtlt' 
both  pleasure  and  benefit. 

Nutwitbalandiiig  the  complete  protection  from  the  north, 
Dorth-east,  and  north^weat,  the  wind  is  oilen  rntiier  hinU 
ear  the  eboni.    £vcn  when  really  in  thr  norlhorn  qiiarlviiJ 
,   may    aeem   to   come    from    sunth-voat  or  iwuUi-westj'^ 
the  oyea  region,  no  doubt  owin^  U>  the  land-locked  chti* 
net«r  of  tho  district.     Still,  however  elron^  tho  northern 
wiHils  may  bo,  llie  niounluin  vullL-ye  and  tlie  more  intemntj 
hiUj  are  quite  stielteted  and  pmteeteil.     The  smaller  or' 
ewtcni  bay  is  decidedly  belter  pruteeted  from  tho  north 
winds,  anu  is  several  (le^^mn  warmer  than  the  western, 
owint;  t^  a  iipor  from  the  lleremu  roountjiin  ri*ing  iinine* 
Jiately   behind    the   houses   which  lina  the  whonr.     'I'herfl 
urUtiuly  is  no  atmoapberic  sta^jnutiun  at  Mentun^  tut  soois 

V 


82 


THE   Rn'lRRA   AND  MENTONB. 


writ«rfi  liBvc  very  erroneoufljr  a«Mirt«<l.     On  llie  ly 
tlii'ns  ix  ooiiKtiint  ntmospherio  motion  between  mu,  lund,  and 
mountain. 

According  to  Admiral  Smyth,  in  Iiw  very  intcrprtlng 
wort  on  "Tbe  Mi.'dit<Trnn«iii'**  (p.  233),  tJii'  nmst  pre- 
valuitt  winds  in  that  Ku  are  tliose  that  blow  from  wottt 
round  uortliwiirdK  to  north-east,  during  two-thirds  of  th« 
year,  from  Muy  to  February.  Dnriiip  ttw  coonths  of  Peb- 
nijiry,  March,  and  April,  on  the  contrary,  the  soiith-ensC 
and  BoiUh-ncst  wiiid»  wonlil  prevnil.  My  cxpcrienee  of  the 
Mi-ittoiiiiin  vhoTv  diirini;  \vint<-r  only  partbtly  iiij^rtex  with 
this  statement.  In  October  and  the  early  part  of  No- 
vember, after  the  aiiliiinnal  equinox,  soutb>west  viada 
hiivf  appeared  to  mo  to  prevail,  brinf^n;;  the  Iieft' 
atittimniil  rainK.  Then  the  north  wintlii  gain  the  up[ 
hand,  and  nsually,  but  with  oeeasional  tcmjioraiy  excc[ 
tions,  reieii  until  ihe  sprins  months,  March  and  April.  At 
this  ffpoeh,  the  noulh-wi-steily  and  easterly  winds  agaiD 
eevm  to  biivc  the  uvoi'mhiney,  giving;  rise  to  the  ^lee  and-j 
rnin«  of  Mureh.  The  prevulencu  of  northerly  winds  during 
the  winter  mtinths,  in  moet  years,  ta  the  real  key  to  the 
climate,  as  I  have  already  Htated.  Duriii<r  the  four  cold 
winter  months,  November,  Di-oemlwr,  January,  nnd  Feb. 
rnary,  the  hi<!;h  mountain  harrier  proteelv  the  ampliiibeatro 
from  these  noithi'rly  winds.  During  the  early  sjiriiiij;,  in 
Mitri-h  anil  April,  the  previilent  foutherly  wiuds,  to  which 
it  IK  ijiiile  open  nnd  exposed,  bring  genial  warmth  and. 
fostcrintc  showers, 

Tliu  southerly  winds,  to  which  Meolone  ia  fnlly  opo: 
whether  they  hring  rain  or  not,  are  ^nerally  mild,  if  n 
warm,  "llie  soulb-cast,  or  deirocco,  tW  pl.^gne  of  eouthern 
Italy,  all  but  loses  its  languor-creaUn|r,  pernicione  eha- 
ractvr,  in  ,iutumn  and  »prin;r>  by  the  time  il  sirikea  the 
head  of  the  (iulf  of  Genoa.  Ori;;inatin^  in  the  Africao 
deserts,  it  leaven  the  Aftiir^an  nhurcK  a>  a  hot,  dry,  ecorchins 
wind,  imbibing  shimdaut  muUture  as  it  eroKsex  the  Medi- 
terrrnean,     XVhvn-ver  it   reaches   the  shores  of  soutbeni 


I 


tThti  MediliiiTiiiienn  1   a  Memoir,  PhTsical.    ii»i 
kL"    By  Uear-AOiuiral  W.  U.  timytlL    rarkor. 


lliiitorical,  and. 
1B&4. 


1&4.     iH 


PHVBICAL  OKOORAPHY   AND  METEOROLOGY.      83 


Italy  it  is  impnnsed  with  tliis  (l<Mililt>  cliflra«ter,  h«at  atiil 
muiKttin.-.  Mid  is  mncli  divailvd.  When  it  urrivce  at 
ML-ntoii4',  however,  il  hus  iiaweed  over  thv  Apunoiiiw  iind 
th«  lii^i  granitio  range  of  Corsica,  some  of  the  oiiiiiiiiita 
wliiidi  arc  clotlivd  wilh  eternal  snow.  It  has  thns 
mnch  ctKiliT  thiin  in  the  twuth  or  centre  of  Kaly. 
[tttlecd,  in  the  montlm  of  l-Vbruar)'  and  March,  the  Miiroct-o 
ao  cooled  by  the  );reat  maso  of  enow  on  the  Cursituu 
nantainK  t^t  it  may  renich  MeDton«,  as  already  slut«d, 
Utt  a  «old  wind,  hriu^ing  oohl  rain,  and  eomettines  snow 
inUi  the  amphitheatre.  The  only  oceawioiiii  on  which  I 
^linre  known  snow  rail  inside  the  amphitheatre,  down  to 
ito  ara  level,  have  boen  under  its  intlucnoe. 

There  i»  gvoloifi'uil  rvideiice  that  in  times  jwst  th«  doaert 

cif  Sahara  wna  (.iivered  with  water,  whiuh  wax  [irohLihly  one 

Bf  the  reneous  why  the  Alpine  glaciers  descended  into  the 

plains  ol'  Lomlmrdy,  for  then  tJita  Routh-eii«t  wind  or  scirocco 

roiild  not  pn>«M.'itt  iti>  present  chiiraetcristico.     When  this 

'^Inhind  ova  dried  up,  and  the  prvmnt  desert  of  Sahara  was 

lurnK-d,  lh«  hot  Huimcoo  wind  miwt  have  appwirc-*!. and  havo 

■Duob  contributed  U>  the  melting  of  the  glaciers  of  North 

Italjr.     M.  Ijasaep6,  the  hero  of  the  Isthmus  of  Suez  canal, 

bat  rCMDtly  proposed  to  H^ain  turn  the  desert,  or  part  of  it, 

ioto  a  tea,  uy  makin;^  a  xhc^rt  (.Miial  from  the  Gulf  of  Ciilx-s 

or  little  Syrtiei,  below  Timis.    It  is  oertaiu  that  south  of  the 

Atliu  mountain«  a  large  extent  of  the  desert  is  below  the 

level  of  the  Aledit«rronean,aiid  that  the  ptiin  is  reasible)  bat 

Im  malts  might  Ix-  moitt  dijutrous  to  the  climate  of  Bnropo. 

On  reading  AditiirnI  Smyth's  work  I  hare  been  Ktruck 

»ith  the  remarkable  agreement  between  my  observjlioiw 

on   the  winds,  and   on   their  iiitliienoc  over  weather  and 

slimute  in  the  western  IkU-dilerranran,  and  the  resulta  of 

'tb«  oliMTrntions  of  the  ancient  Greeks,  made  at  Athens 

more  than  two  thousand  jears  ago.     There  is  still  extant 

LKt  Athena  a  kind  of  observatory  tower,  erected  by  the 

r  istronomical  arvhit^t  Andronieus  CyrrhexllK-x,  which  has 

aurvivtH]  the  wi-ur  and  tear,  the  storms  and  calastropbea  of 

twenty   centuries,   for   it   was  probably   built  about  one 

hundred  and  fiily  years  n.C.     This  towcr  is  octangular  in 

IWiu,  uuJ  give*  the  eight  (wiuls  of  the  compasa  then  re- 

S  o 


84 


THE  nrVIERA    AND   MENTONE. 


OOfTDlsod,  witli  tho  re|>ut«(l  quality  of  the  winds  in  llic 
ntrridian  of  AtticH,  by  svtnbolic  etntuco.  I  saw  it  a  {k^v 
ynim  ngw  jiwt  a»  tit'  (iuHcrilic*  il. 

In  addition  to  the  polur,  e<iiiatonal,  and  local  winds,  vei 
often,  when  it  is  fine,  and  wfien  the  snn  shines  with  fo 
on  the  Mentonian  amphithealrp,  there  is  a  very  docidi-d 
sro-brMM  (Inriiic;  the  niidill«  of  the  diiy,  119  in  tropienl 
countries.  The  air,  iteootnin;:  heated  and  niretled  in  the 
mountain  baiin,  rises,  and  e<ioler  air  from  the  sea  rashes 
in  tu  supply  ils  place.  But  for  n  decided  tics-bree»i  thus 
to  rise  in  winter,  Uiero  mnut  be  a  ^troni^  wind  blowing 
from  louic  of  the  northern  quarters.  When  thin  is  th^ 
cane,  in  the  earlv  pnrt  of  the  day,  until  about  eleven  o'clock, 
the  north  nind  only  renc-hing  the  sea  at  some  distanec 
from  the  beach,  owing  to  the  moiinUiu  protcetion,  leaves 
the  waters  ini^hore  calm  or  n<-arly  no.  The  sen  air  that 
later  rushes  in  to  supply  the  ]>)acp  of  the  rareGed  land  nir, 
puxhine  angry  billows  before  it,  is  merely  the  north  wind, 
which  having  pnsscd  overhead  and  gone  out  to  sea,  ia  pulled 
back  by  the  niiilday  heat.  When  the  air  is  perfectly  calm 
in  the  nppcr  ami  lower  ntmosiiheric  r<'gioui'.  1  he  calm  of  the 
early  inurnin;;  oontitiiti-s  all  day,  because  therti  in  then  no 
strong  wind  and  angry  sea  to  be  drawn  inland  by  the 
eflects  of  land  heat.  The  liitt<T  iit  winter  is  not  suffic-iently 
ereat  to  create  lhi»  little  ni<iiisiH>n  when  thu  utinospherc  is 
in  a  state  of  complete  repose,  It  was  long  before  thcaboTO 
facts  became  elcnr  to  me,  before  1  nnderslood  why,  on  two 
days  apparently  identical  as  regarxlit  sun^ihiue,  the  ntimiini* 
calm  on  one  occasion  continuea  all  day,  and  on  another 
gives  place,  about  eleven  o'clock,  to  a  strong  scta-breezo  and 
to  a  rough  sen. 

lu  winter,  the  sca.lirwTte  retgna  from  about  eleven  to 
tlire-e.  In  summer  it  begins  much  earlier— before  eight. 
Tluis,  the  seashore  of  Klentoue  is  decidedly  windy,  even  in 
fine  summer  weather,  and  this  sea-brecz«  is  oft'^n  cold  in 
winter,  for  it  is  tlie  north  wind,  wliich  ha.-i  poMwd  over- 
head, drawn  buck.  Thi.->  is  a  fact  that  invalids  ought  to 
reinember.  Tbcy  should  Iwar  in  mind  that  the  genth) 
breeze  that  fans  them  when  sitting  on  the  sMubcAol)  on  a 
line  sunny  day,  may  be  merely  a  cruel,  treacherous  north 


I  us 

*7^ 


J 


THYSICAL  GiXKJRAPUV  AND   METEOROMWY.      85 


wind  pulled  bitvk  by  the  boat,  nnd  to  Ihj  carefully  avoided. 
Thin  n-tuni  in'a-l>ro«M  can,  moreover,  Ijc  complmcly  nvoidiid 
kr  lesviiij^  the  sbore  and  ^■)itiin>;  thu  iiiitiieroiia  valleyii. 
We  nusL  rvooUcct,  at  the  same  time,  tliat  wind  Is  a  health* 

S'Wu^  J>;^nl>  0  imriRer  of  the  earth,  that  a  place  whcro 
are  u  iiu  wind  would  eoon  become  ii  mere  cirbciii-hiailed 
woU,  putfe«tly  pestilentud,  )Mp«<;ially  iit  a  tuiutliera  dimnte. 
It  ia  only  ttetnmeulal  to  conGrni«d  invalidii,  and  they  can 
tily  avoid,  it   nt  Mentone,   without  remaiuin);  iDuoors, 
Inleu  on  the  rare  ociMtsions  when  a  hurrieanc  is  blowing. 
The  sea-br«eze,  which  daily  poura  into  the  ^Tcntoniaa 
aphitheatre  when  th«  dry  north  windu  blow,  Imvin;^  im- 
_  IiiIkm]  moieture   IVori   ite  cuntuct  with   the  »ea,  modihes, 
'  diininiHheM  tlio  «xlron>e  dryness  of  these  northerly  wind«, 
au  inipuitant  rael  fur  the  invalid  population.     Thn»,  unleim 
when  llieru  ia  a  ponilivu  hurrioano  fruni  the  north,  the  dry- 
at»s  ie  acvvT  extreme.     The  wet-bulh  tliormonieter  shoivs 
kthiii  inlluenei-.     On  these  days  the  dr)'ne8s  generally  di* 
'iniiiuihes  a  eouple  of  de;;i-eeE  by  midday,  Bhowtn{^  that  tlm 
alini)«phcrv  liao  bevomc  so  much  the  moister. 

At  ui^Iit  tliure  u  a  land-brcexe,  which  detociids  from 
tlic  moiintaina  to  the  iihore  and  sea.  Uctween  t^e  suh< 
aiding  of  the  iii;;ht  Und-breoKe  and  the  ri^in);  of  the  day 
aaa-brwrae,  and  n^n  between  the  Hub>iidin|r  of  the  duy- 
jLrewMS  and  the  rinirijj  of  the  itit;hl  land-bweKv — -in  rine, 
'briifht  ftiiiuthiiiy  weather — there  in  a  iierioii  of  repose,  n 
lull,  durin);  which  the  air  ia  c:ilin.  The  preaent  Italian 
inarinur«  eall  this  period  of  ealm  ionacvia,  as  hcinj;  unac- 
tximpHnied  by  dan;;er ;  their  mor«  sturdy  Roman  pred«- 
cwKire  ^lesitpuitcd  it  mi/rKrcia,  fruni  ilti  being  a  cauae  of 
dilatrreeabli-  det«-ntion.  Hit*  jwrtod  lasta,  in  winter,  from 
fli;^iit  to  eleven  i.«.,  and  from  three  to  six  or  seven,  V.M., 
iveewrdin>;  to  the  luii^^h  of  the  day  and  tho  amount,  of  aiin- 
ahinu.  The  moniiii};  lull  in  the  time  for  confirmed  invalids 
to  walk  on  thu  abore.  'I'lidse  who  are  woU — the  atronff,  the 
hculthy^-oan  rmsiive  no  linnn  whate^'er  from  s  good  blow, 
if  wpII  doUied,  and  not  heated  by  violent  exercise. 

The  land-bre«]!u  from  the  mountains,  at  night,  ix  utnally 
vcrjf  gvntli',  isijKviiiUy  in  winter.  OecMiionally,  however, 
owiU);  to  auddcn  uhange  of  t^impuruture  Iwlweeti  liuid  and 


86 


THE  RIVIERA   AND  MENTOXE. 


tea,   the  land   ninds   descend   suddt-tily  uid   with   j^t 
iin|wtuo«it)',  w  io  all  ports  of  tlie  Mi-ditcmnvnii  okir 
wiUi  higli  mountaiiu.     Tb«noe  the  goaiM«l  u»e  of  "  Uto«n  ' 
or  Iruin^lar  suib,  attat^Kl  to  yarda  thxt  oati  inetantly  be 
let  down  l>y  the  na,  for  the  "xeb^s,  IVhiccan,  and  other 
omft  which  con^t  th«  ehom  within  their  inflncnw." 

It  I*  oaly  nt  oight  that  the  liind-hreex«  dcsci-ttds  from 
the  high  mouDtain  nng«s.  It  i*  (]uitc  jwrceptible,  ev«n 
ID  winter,  as  soon  as  the  etin  has  set,  eeiwvtally  in  the 
western  l)ay.  The  g^vater  n-armth  of  tlie  ensteni  hay  at 
Mcntone  in  cridently  dae  to  thv  protection  of  the  »M!oiKiiry 
nage  of  hillo,  whii-h,  rtaing  inimcdijttfly  from  tho  sen,  cuts 
off,  aa  il  were,  this  cold  air  current.  In  the  western  bay 
the  lower  valley  of  Gorbio  is  similarly  protected  by  the 
iandftone  htll  of  St*.  Lucia.  Consequently  the  temperature 
of  this  Tolley  is  aUo  exoeptionally  warm,  as  vvidcn^wd  by 
its  early  and  lusuriaitt  vegvtjition.  Wherever  tltere  is  a 
gully,  ravine,  or  torrent  b^,  the  temperature  is  generally 
two  or  three  degrees  lower  in  it  at  night  than  elsewhere  in 
cither  boy,  owing  to  their  forming  funnels  down  which  the 
cohJer  mount^iin  currents  derccnd  to  the  »ca. 

In  >iiniin«r  the  oold  mountain  currents  ut  night  power* 
fnlly  G(>ntribute  to  diminish  heat,  and,  combined  with  the 
day  sea-breeze,  produce  a  much  cooler  and  mom  equable 
tvaiperatura  tliiin  in  found  inhind  in  the  Fame  littitudcf^ 

Thus  the  temperature  is  very  twldom  uUivc  ^U''  Fah.  at 
any  time  in  the  summer,  whereas  both  in  Haris  and  in 
London  a  higher  temperature  is  reached  every  enrnmer. 
On  the  other  hnml,  during  icvcnl  months,  June,  July, 
August,  and  Hejitcmber.  tliero  is  but  one  or  two  degrvea 
dilferenc«  between  the  day  maximum  and  tlic  night  mini- 
mum, which  constitutes  the  real  drawback  to  the  summer 
climate,  etipecially  for  invatids, 

The  dillii.'ulty  of  recogniHing  from  which  direction  the 
wind  blow*  ii>  very  great  ul  Menloiie  when  tlierv  in  u  calm 
in  the  lower  atmosphere,  or  when  norlhcni  eurrenlif  from 
thii  north-east  or  north-west  are  diverted  lu  tlio  south-east 
oraouth-wcMt  by  tlie  motinlnins  which  Ibnn  the  bay.  When 
this  ill  the  ease,  nnd  aloo  undfr  Xim  influence  of  the  wn 
breeze,  all  the  weathercocks  will  point  to  the  south,  when, 


rirV8!CAI>  OBOGR-U'ITY  ASD  METKOBOLOGV.      87 


in  reality,  th«  weather  and  olimato-iufluciicing  wind  oome^ 
fram  llio  north,  All  my  early  ol».'rvalioiis  ncrc  invnli- 
d«t>^]  \>y  th«  noii-riKo^nitbii  of  tliwo  riu-tx,  ani]  1  think 
liM»t  of  thiiHo  tliuL  hiive  Iwen  |>tililii<heil  have  b«en  iiivali* 
dat«()  bv  the  &iime  cause.  Very  often  it  is  only  by  consult- 
ing tho  \rvt  ani]  An  l>utb  thci'inoiuotem  tliiit  doubtx  Kin  he 
■olveO  lu  to  lite  real  dirL-ctioi)  of  thu  u-iiid,  Thoy  are  of 
great  axMittuuoe,  for  iiorllt  winds  are  alwayii  dry,  mid  south 
vimU  moist. 

The  apjuireDt  twUting  and  turning  of  a  north-enst  wind 
to  the  voutli-i-aBt  as  it  enters  the  hay,  ofa  nortli-we^t  to  tliir 
auulh-»<'iit,  iind  the  rntincul  bwi-1hvc«,  aWit  to  the  wind 
till-  a]i|)vai'ano<!  of  iteiirly  always  Ciiming  from  tho  south. 
Tbia  error,  a  most  |jal|>ahle  otie,  has,  1  believe,  been  itiadi. 
\>y  most  observers.  There  are,  in  reality,  many  eddies  and 
local  eiirrentx  in  the  Meutonian  amphilhoatre  winch  are 
iiiai<p)iti(-aiit  iw  re^ardit  weatlii-r  timl  i^'liuiatv.  It  i.i  the 
upner  currents  atone  that  rule  the  wi.-:ithi-r  and  the  clinuite, 
aa<l  they  can  only  l>e  aseerlained  by  a  uarel'iil  exainination 

Euai  study  of  the  |lo^ilion  and  |ii-i>^ra^  of  the  clouds  in 
eoon^xion  with  the  highest  mountain  summits.  Tlie  local 
wmtlicrcoukM  are  all  but  usirlfs»  fur  thif  purjioM*. 
A  rcmarkahk  fact  which  rcnilen'  it  all  the  more  ditHaulb 
to  deciile  which  way  the  ivind  hlnws  in,  that  constantly  two 
winds  areubeorved  blowint^  at  the  same  time  from  ditrercnt 
(liurtrn  of  tha  horizon,  fri>ni  the  north  and  from  the  si>iith, 
and  that  even  in  ruic  weather,  Indivd.  the  (ienoi-Ke  Hivicni 
is  a  ni^ular  battleliotd,  where  the  ni>rlhand  tlic»outh  utiidH 
t'ousLantly  meet  ia  mortal  comhat,  the  weather  depending 
uu  which  has  tho  victory. 
The  climate  of  the  Mentono  amphitheatre  and  of  tho 
Aiviarn  in  gvoeral  is  a  favountble  upociimt-n  of  what  hutau- 
kts  uall  the  warmer  turnperate  xone.  Flatita  live  nearly 
pvcrywhero  which  front  kills, many  annuals  in  a  colder  region 
heiMinv  ptrrenuialH,  and  many  fornis  of  vegetation  new  to 
the  more  northern  llora  make  their  nppearancw.  It  is  the 
Mediterranean  climate,  but  that  of  the  more  favoured 
Medilerraneun  rejpoti«.  In  Italy,  for  iiintaiiee,  tho  nio»t 
|>rott'cted  tKititheni  rrifionn  must  be  ruuched  to  find  the  B.imu 
immiiuity  frvm  froKt.   Uu  the  aonthei-n  shores  of  thi:  Mudi- 


68 


THE   ltl%-liai,\.  AND  HENTONB. 


tiTi'utifiiD,  in  Al^^rm,  iiiiJ  iit  Tunin,  then  is  th«  tame 
immunity  from  froot,  tint,  owing  to  thu  prcvcnott  of  tlio 
AtluH  mi>iuit»ii)D,  cool  mixM  )>r«iIuiiiiDate  througliout  the 
winter,  with  the  north  M'imb,  which  usually  lule  at  that 
lime  of  the  year.  Mentone  also  is  warmer,  more  pro- 
t<.-cteil  frDDi  Tiorihvrn  winds  than  it«  neighbour  Nto.%  more 
Ki>  than  Camicw,  iittlioiifjli  llie  gcnvral  l('atiirv9<  of  the  cli- 
mate are  tliu  Kame,  fur  all  three  are  only  a  oliort  dialanoo 
apart.  It  is  the  oiieetioD  o{  fruit  nails  in  orchards  in  th« 
eaine  distriot,  one  lii};her  and  ;;iviai;  mon>  protection  than 
the  nthen*,  but  all  turned  towards  the  K>nth.  At  Nice  there 
are  aheltercKl  Httuiitionx,  Hiieh  lut  Uio  Cimiez,  the  Cnrabocel, 
mid  VilWrranohe,  in  which  the  )iroteetion  ia  tfreater  than 
in  tha  tonn  itscltj  nnd  which  thus  assimilate  to  Mcntone, 
without,  liowi-viT,  vijiiallin;;  it. 

It  iK  well  to  reuolkct  that  in  Hueh  a  climate,  in  the 
warmer  temperate  xone,  winter  i.i  by  no  mt-an:*  avoided. 
Tlte  deMriptioiw  of  the  winter  climate  of  Nice,  Cannea, 
Hyerce,  and  of  Italy  in  general,  contained  in  most  books  of 
Ir.ivcl,  works  on  climate,  and  (fuidc-books,  are  mere  poetical 
<IWu«ions.  The  (wrpeluul  cpriii;^,  tho  elernai  eummfr,  ilio 
warm  »outh«r»  Imlmy  atnioftplicre,  detcribed  to  the  rea<ler 
in  Boeh  glowing  termi*,  only  exist  in  the  imagination  of  the 
writers.  Allliou(i;h  there  i'^  so  much  sunshine,  so  much  fine 
woiither,  aueh  immunity  from  fo^  and  driKKtin^  rain,  vro 
are  alill  on  the  ountinenl  of  Europe,  with  iee  nnd  snow 
behind  iia,  for  more  than  two  thousand  miles,  up  to  the  north 
pole.  It  is  still  winter;  wind,  rain,  a  chilly  atmosphere, 
and  oeoasional  cold  weather,  with  snow  on  the  mountains 
and  flakes  of  ioe  in  vxiio^cd  Eitiiulii.>n^  liavc  lo  be  ciioonn- 
tered.  It  ia  as  well,  therefore,  that  the  invalid  traveller 
should  be  prepared  to  encounter  them,  otherwise,  antici- 
jwtiu;*  an  Jildorado,  balmy  Zfphyrs,  perpetual  sunshine, 
and  an  cver-i^milint;  nutui'o.  ho  is  disappointed.  1  believe 
'  that  coutinuouM  warm  weather  in  winter,  and  the  (complete 
abmnoe  of  cold  days  or  ni^htx,  are  not  to  be  met  with  in 
ttio  temperate  Kune!*,  only  in  trupieal  regions;  and  these 
n*yions  present  many  diawba^^ks  both  lo  health  and  comfort. 
If  they  are  considL-rL-d  rctjuitiitc,  boworer,  the  tropics,  or  at 
least  Madeira,  slioiild  be  seJcctvdj  not  the  Mediterranean  ; 


J 


PHYSICAL  GKOQItAPUV   AND  MHTKOROLOOY.      89 


or  bcttxT  ctJlltthv  invnlid  longing  for  KiitDmcr,  for  c<>i»tiint 
6ne  warm  weather,  aIkuiIiI  at  once  jru  to  Uic  ADtipoiies,  to 
Austrnlia,  or  to  the  Cu|)e. 

Thf  t!xist«Doe  of  Oran-;e  and  Lemon-trees,  of  Gc-ranimns, 

nutintropoa,  Verbcniu,  aud   Uoscs,  flowering   thniiii;li(>ut 

the  winter,  do««  not  ocvLift'nrily  iiiii>ly  thv  nbicnce  of  cold 

weaUi«rr  merely   the  aUaeiive  of  absolute  froet.    lliis   ie 

I  well  known  to  all  who  are  familiitr  with  the  manii:;cmciit 

•of  coniii.Tvutoric«  and  of  winter  tIowcr<gnrdcDti  in  Kiigtaud. 

lOnn'  llic  tiowon",  gatlicrcd   from  ovory  clime,  which  maU« 

[an  EtiKliili  conaorvutory  micli  ii  mx-ne  of  g\»ty  in  winter, 

are  fully  in  bloasoin,  aad  havo  b<;eu  brouj^ht  in  from  the 

forcii)g-housc8,  all  ^rdenere  know  that  a  rathvr  low  t«in- 

|)en1tir«  i«  bonirlicuil,  and  prolong  the  hloom  and  Ijcauty 

of    tlicif   llonil   fiivanrite*.     Tho    Cliintvi!    I'rimulaa,   the 

IXcatha,    the    K[ia<rride«,    tho    ('atm^lli^,  the    Aznleaa,  the 

Corrcus,  tlie  Chorozcmas,  tlie   bulboiia  plantj^,  contiiuie  to 

,«xruu)d  and  thtivu  at  a  ni^ht  tvinpuratiiru  of  from  38"  to 

4V.     ll  i«  tJiv  IroEt  thoy  four. 

A  few  mile*  from  Mentone,  nt  Bordighcnt.  groves  of 
Palm-Lre«9  grow  in  ^reat  luxuriance,  and  are  looked  upon 
by  all  tnnrellers  aa  evidences  of  an  all  Imt  tropical  tlimutc, 
■s  are  those  that  Rrow  on  tho  "  Place"  nt  HycreM,  aiitl  in 
tlin  gardens  at  Nioc.  Such,  however,  U  not  the  case.  l*iilm!i 
twill  grow  a«  outdoor  tree^  in  uny  nrgion  of  the  Ittviera, 
and  would  be  generally  cultivated,  were  it  not  that  t.liL-ir 
cultivslioti  is  unprofitablo  every w lit.- re,  e\(.-ept  »t  llordighcru, 
which  has  the  monopoly  of  supplying  llomo  with  piilmn  on 
Pulm  Sunday.  On  the  Uiviera  itiey  cither  do  not  prnduco 
fruit,  or  their  fniil  ia  not  fit  to  ltuI  ;  toripen  the  fniit  of  tJio 
dato  Falni  the  sultry  Hummer  heat  of  the  sotith-eastcointtor 
Spain,  uf  E^ypt.orof  thedMort  ot'Siihjraii^re'piircd.  Kven 
in  Kgj'jit  the  Arabs  place  the  dati<K  in  jur*,  whi<.:h  they  bury 
in  ibe  Mod  to  oompletv  tlic  procim  of  ripening.  This  ti-ce 
may  Ixi  oompared,  wlieo  growing  in  southern  Europe,  to 
the  CtieHttiut>tree  in  tJie  north  of  Knjfland.  As  a  tttv  tho 
latter  i^wa  there  in  j^rcat  hixunutiei>,  but  it*  fruit  w  all 
]l>ut  Wortblew.  Tho  centre  and  ihi'  kouUi  of  Kurope  alone 
I'linvo  •uUioJcnt  Kuranier  warmth  to  idUiw  the  fruit  to  n^iiuh 
Iferfeotioii.     The  i>T«aonoe  of  luagnilioeot  Chestuut-ti^-u»  in 


90 


THE  RIVIERA   AND  MENTONE. 


our  clinale  Ooes  not,  UiL-refure,  iitiHuite  that  it  Is  a  warnn 
one.      I  have,  indeed,  6(xn  Cbestout-trees  in  the  llii;h- 
iHnds  of  Scolbad,  as,  for  instance,  nt  Artochar,  on  Loul 
Long,  growin);  with  the  greatest  luxuriiiucc. 

The  proximity  of  the  ttca  exercise*  a  coiiKiiloruble  in 
fluetice  over  the  climate  of  Mentone,  as  the  temporaturs 
of  the  Medtt«riaDean  is  never  very  low.  When  the 
weather  is  cold,  and  especially  when  the  eun  ts  obecuml, 
tlM  Bvn  is  a  rn^crvoir  of  htut,  and  pi.Toc])lihly  wiiriiiM  lUe 
air;  for  it  in  then  wui-mur  on  the  Hea-Uivrl  than  on  the 
hilU.  When,  on  the  contrary,  an  is  uaually  the  case,  the 
Bun  f^liiiics,  the  evnporatiun  wliich  constantly  takes  place 
cools  the  air  at  the  sca-levcl,  and  it  becomes  puruL-ptibl 
wanner  u«-thc  hilU  are  aitcended.  There  are  thvltei 
eunoy  Doi}kB  in  the  vicinity  of  Ca^tcllare,  a  inoantai' 
village  1200  feet  above  the  sea-level,  where,  owing, 
doubt,  to  the  conceiitiation  and  revcrbcmtion  of  Ihcsuii'ti 
roytt,  thu  climate  is  exceptionally  mild,  and  n'heni  violL-ti 
and  unvmoiK-s  apjii^ar  iit  Iciut  ten  days  before  they  are 
found  ut  much  lower  clevaltoas,  or  even  in  sheltered  upoU 
at  the  sea-level. 

The  summer  cUmate  of  ]Slen1one  is  cool  compared  to' 
thiit  of  suuthcri)  France  and  of  conlineittal  Itjity,  otv)ii»,  im 
we  have  wen,  to  the  6ea-bivcz«  whiuli  seU  in  rcgwlnrly  ia 
the  uiorniufc,  and  blowM  tin-  •|n!itU-r  part  of  the  duy,  aud  to 
the  Litid-breezt!  which  descends  at  niyht  frum  the  higher 
mounUiiiK.  Jtut  then,  on  the  other  hand,  it  remains, 
night  and  ilny,  at  a  high  temperature  for  scvtrul  montlnt. 
In  the  tropicH,  on  the  seacouHt,  there  in  alwo  this  sea-hreese 
daily,  which  makes  the  warm  weather  bearable,  even  agree- 
able 1o  some;  hut  it  does  not  prevent  the  high  temjK-rattiixi 
producing  its  u§ual  physiological  ctllvts  vn  the  htimnn 
frame.  W'armth,  when  the  air  is  wtngnant  ami  loiided  willi 
moiature,  Ih  very  diHiuull  to  endure,  because  the  in^eruihle 
perspiration  culleetv  on  the  skin,  and  'at  not  carried  off. 
'JI11S  renders  warm  weather  so  unpleasant  in  KngUud, 
where  the  air  is  generally  more  or  le^  uiturated  with 
m»i»tiire.  When,  on  Ihe  contrary,  there  is  0  light  brecM 
fanning  the  bmly,  and  the  air  is  dry,  as  on  the  Mentoue 
Conetj  the  peratpiralioii  i»  uoustontly  cartic<l  away,  und  tJie 


ace 


PHYSICAL  OEOORAPHT  AND  itKTEOJiOlAXiV.      91 


body  «oo1«d  by  it«  vaporisatioii.  I  hare  been  for  S6T«nil 
days  OD  the  outskitte  of  the  doeorl  of  Sahara,  in  Al;;i>ria, 
with  tUe  tbormomctvr  at  ]>0%  wJUiout  fecltn;^  any  distruss, 
olthougli  strvaming  with  i)cn]>iriit4on.  It  wm  merely  be- 
cause the  Bciroocu  was  blowing  on  me  t'fofu  the  deacrt  and 
flvapoMting  the  moisture  from  the  okiii,  VVhilat  oDce,  on  a 
Uunilbo  stniimvr,  in  the  ^nme  tcmponiturej  thu  heat  wiM  ull 
but  unbonrublu  iml<>M  I  plniv<l  myvelf  on  the  |irow  of  the 
vessel  and  encouDten-d  the  draft  created  by  ito  movement. 
The  trying  feature  of  the  summer  climate  in  the  Itiviern  is  un- 
douhlodly  tlichighDi<;ht  temperatura,  which  has  to  be  borne 
constantly,  during  Uie  <uinmi-r,  from  )[ay  until  Octolwr. 

Thuti  Siciiniporc,  uii<ler  the  equator,  huH  u  temperature  ot 
abont  m"  all  t]ie  year  through,  variation  beiug  limited  to 
two  or  thre«  dotfrce*.  This  heat  in  nut  c\treme;  it  tH 
mueb  loH  ihnn  that  of  India  in  summer,  but  its  iMntinu- 
anoe  rendcra  Sincapore  anything  but  a  healthy  rusideiic«. 
It  suffices  to  develop  the  diseases  of  hot  climates. 

Saoh  being  the  caw, — althoug'h  persons  in  health  may 
find  it  an  agrc«able  residence, — I  do  not  advise  invalids  to 
rvtnain  at  Montonv  during  the  summer  scnson.  If  they 
do  not  w-iih  to  return  to  Ku'^laud,  tlie  buMt;  mimmcr  climate 
ill  Eurojw  fur  health,  they  hud  better  seek  a  refuge  fram 
the  hciit  in  some  of  the  high  mouutain  tiamtarla  to  which 
tliu  iiii-diciil  inon  of  Xioe,  Geneva,  and  Swiljcerland  send 
their  paticuti*.  1  may  montion,  a»  easily  aocessible,  St. 
Untmas,  on  the  Maritime  Aljw,  about  six  hours'  distance 
Iroin  .Mentane;  the  Orand  Chartreuse,  near  Coni,  m  Pied* 
niooti  fui-lher  away,  the  Grand  Courmaycur,  a  wetU 
shelterod  and  picturvst)uv  nwuHtuin  valley,  with  sulphur 
spritigu,  near  Auttla,  on  the  aouth  side  of  the  Mi>unt  St. 
Itemiird,  and  Monte  Generoao,  above  lakes  Ma;;giora 
and  Lugano.  1  have  sought  for  such  a  refuge  in  Corsica, 
which  tlie  weekly  steamers  from  Nice  now  rentier  very 
ncueMibU),  but  hitherto  without  any  succesn.  The  cool 
Bumniur  climate  exixU  there,  but  without  the  aeeommoda- 
tiou  which  would  make  it  useful  or  available,  as  will  be 
expLiiied  herealW. 

Many  of  the  roouiitains  that  surroiuid  the  Mentonian 
amphiihmtni  are  above  4t)0t>  tcct  high,  th«  Atguillc  uod 


92  THE  ntVIERA  AXD  MENTOSK. 

(iran    Moudo   Tvr   instunco,   and   prenc-nt   lovcl)'  jtlaleaiix 
and    Piue    IbresU,    and    would   oll^r  a  charmiiifi:  isuminer 
letmit,  nerc  Tension  Hotels  built  upon  them.     ^ly  IVioiid, 
l>i'.  Farinu,  of  Mcnti>n«,  is  now  i;tigiiKC'l  in  an  ulloinpt  to 
eetablisb  such  a  mouutjiiii  etatiixi  ubovc  Dolce  Aqu*  in  the  { 
valley  of  tbe  Nervi»,  only  a  few  hours'  disloot.     It  will 
l>e  a  i;i-«at  Loon  when  thu  winter  invalids   bave   only    lo ' 
a->CL!nd  tlic  mountaind  that  haw  protected  thorn  fiotn  tlioj 
north   M'indti   in  ninU^r  to  find  Khultur  from  thv  aumnter^ 
beat  of  the  south.     Now  Uiese  cool  mountain  heights  are 
left  to  the  ehepberda. 

In  Switzerland  there  arc  many  retreats  of  this  kind,  at 
dilfereut  gtBd<«  of  elevation.  Aim>n^t  tlic  pUaKuntexb  j 
and  best,  aoooixlinf;  to  the  late  Ur.  B<,-ziincanet,  of  AiglSj,] 
are  the  bntJis  of  Morgjins,  in  the  V'alais,  above  400O  leet 
high,  »  rharmin<;  mountain  valley,  well  known  for  ita 
strong  cbrilylH-nte  spring.  I  have  not  mynelf  been  there, 
but  have  l>ecn  told  ihut  it  U  a  deligUtfid  retreat  from  the 
heat  of  a  ciintin«nlul  iiunimcr,  and  that  the  air  ijt  bracing, 
without  being:  ohilly.  The  valley  is  wide,  and  tbe  sky] 
Bunevidly  Wiyht  and  clear,  A  respectable  hoUil  has  been  j 
htiilt,  which  nffbrds  travellers  and  invalids  the  pmlec-tion 
and  comforts  they  require.  I  niny  alwo  invrition  Se|>ev  or 
Uniiouds,  aWiul  seven  lenguea  from  Vevay,  3;JU0  feet  high; 
anil  La  Ko^iui&re,  a  pretty  miiuntaxn  village,  with  a  guod 
hotel.  Aiglc,  Bex,  and  L'larene  can  be  recommended  fur 
early  immnier.  The  three  latter  arc  on  the  level  of  the 
Luke  of  (>en«vn,  itself  1200  feet  al>ove  the  sea-level,  so 
that  the  elevation  is  still  oonniderable.  In  eartv  summeT 
and  in  the  autumn  they  are  better  calculated  for  th« 
invalid  than  tbe  higher  elevations,  which  are  only  suitetl 
lor  invalids  during  the  i^reftt  summer  heat» — from  the 
middle  of  July  to  the  end  of  Aug'ust  and  the  middle  of 
ESeptember.  At  all  these  places  there  are  comrortahltf 
hotels  at  reasonable  rates. 

In  cases  of  phthisis,  more  especially,  extreme  heat  shoul 
\ie  avoided  durini;  the  summer,  as  calculated  to  acoelerat 
the  progri'BM  of  the  disc»M).  The  patient  shouhl,  indi'ed,  be 
kept  iu  a  tmipi^rature  hcUxH  TO"  Fah.  Thiii,  in  Contineutul 
Europe,  can  only  be  done  by   leaving  the  plaios  for  tUa 


rUYSlCAL  QEOQRAPHY  AND   MBTEOROLOtiY.      93 


I 


■DOUnUins,  and  attaining  ihcroon  a  coosiderablo  elcval>i>n 
— At  leant  four  thoiMind  fcot. 

Th«re  t!i,  however,  some  littlo  mk  to  be  encountered  by 
those  who  tbus  fly  to  the  mountains  to  escape  tho  heat  of 
tUt  plains,  ir  tho  mtmmer  is  dry  and  fine,  ull  is  vtvW ;  the 
iDoiintuin  air  i»  found  pure  and  bnidng,  the  scenery  is 
iitichantingi  and  lienlth  oft«n  imitrove^  rapidly.  Bat  if 
vnl  weather  sels  iii,  the  mountain  retreats  are  at  once 
enveloped  in  cloud  or  fo^,  and  may  remain  en  for  workH,  to 
t]iD  great  detriment  of  the  coiuiumptive  intient.  Again, 
tbo  latter  t*  Hurroiinded  by  healthy,  eutliusiaatio  toiiri.tts, 
eajjer  to  explore  the  majeotic  beauties  of  the  Alpine 
sccnerr,  wbich  tUuy  have  come  to  sl^o  and  examine.  Tliuir 
oxainpio  in  C(inta«io(i<,  and  it  im  very  diffioiiil  for  thu  iniwt 
Tvasonabli;  not  t»  be  Ird  utruy,  and  not  to  be  induced  tu  exert 
theniHlveB  more  than  is  desirable  or  pruJont. 

1  have  known  many  break  down  from  one  or  both  of 
thuM  caiiseM,  and  under  tho  inllucnee  of  aceiduntd  disease, 
to  loM  complutuly  in  a  frw  wettks  ull  the  benciit  gained  by 
«  winter'*  rMidence  on  the  Kiviera.  it  is  the  n^i^ol lection 
iifsoch  cases  that  makes  mo  now  always  recommend  the 
invalids  witom  I  have  ciirrii-d  nafely  through  the  winter  to 
leave  touring  to  better  times,  and  to  return  if  poKHilile,  for 
the  Humtncr,  to  cool,  green,  heullhy  England.  If  not 
jHissible  or  desirable,  the  summer  may  f-cncmlly  bo  aneiit 
more  safely  on  Iliv  coast  of  the  North  Sva  or  of  the  British 
CUniiRel,  ut  any  of  the  jwrU  between  Ustend  and  Tiouvillo, 
than  in  Switzerland. 

One  of  the  beet  sammer  stations  in  Switzerland  is,  un- 
questionably, St.  Afiirit}!,  in  th<-  np|ii-r  part  of  tlie  Engadiii 
vallev,  on  the  river  Inn,  at  an  eleruliun  of  .'')300  feet.  St. 
Morilx  has  become  a  favourite  summer  re^rt  of  lale  yenni, 
and  there  is  now  plenty  of  hotel  accommodation.  The  air 
ia  cool  and  pleowtnt  Ibroughotit  the  summer.  At  thia 
liai)fht,  iu  ease  of  rainy  weatJier,  the  clouda  olVta  lie  at  a 
lower  elevation,  and  tlie  bad  weather  may  be  partially 
avoided.  For  thoroughly  oonvalesocnt  patients  n  resideiiec 
in  theve  Alpine  regionn  in  Uie  montlm  of  July  and  Augmt 
may  Iw  advanta^nia  ae  well  as  agreeuible.  Hut  it  is  not 
jamciouB  or  safe  lor  then  who  uu  suiTering  from  Mriooe 


94 


THE  lUVIERA  AND  HENTUNEL 


cliest  disease  to  niD  the  risk  of  possible  cold,  stormy  wentlier, ' 
nbioti  at  no  ^rcnt  nti  elevation  iu  tbc  Swies  Al]>e  iwnietiiaes ^ 
occiiiKfvtn  in  midsummer. 

It  tins  bceu  proi>uecd  lately  to  send  constrniptive  patients 
to  the  Engadin  lor  the  wmter.  I  only  look  upon  tJiis 
propofa]  us  iin  evidenco  of  the  rciuiioQ  taking  pine*'  in  the 
modinal  mind  ngsiiuit  llic  trcntroeiil  of  plitbiniH  by  tropicul 
wannth  and  moisture.  Tlie  same  reaction  has  oeeurred 
in  the  United  States,  where  some  pbysieinns  are  ^endiu;]' 
patiiMitji  to  St.  Paul,  in  Mi»n«ota  iu  winter,  for  tbenkeofa 
dry  cold  Ihnt  freezes  the  rirera  many  feet  deep  I  ThuM  tlia 
human  mind,  like  the  pendulum,  has  always  a  teodeney  to 
fto  to  extremes,  although  truth  and  prudence  say :  safety 
lica  in  the  middle  coumc,  "  In  mcilio  fwlitt'mim  ihU."  Tins 
iH  tbe  motto  1  have  taken  fur  mv  tv»rk  un  the  t.r<-ntini-nt  of 
pulmunarv  consumption,  in  which  theee  cliuuLe  <jueiitiona 
ure  fully  discussed. 


CnAPTER  IV. 
noTERs  ASD  nowncwnmz  on  hie  rivieba. 

"  0  fortunntoii  nintitun,  na  «i  bona  nArint 
Agriooba  T'  .  .  . 

YiseiL.— Owr]r<M. 

"  Si  j'nvai*  nn  niTwnt  <l<'  tci.  mont.  xtH,  nn  pUiiM^ 
Aroc  nn  liti-t  il'i^au.  U.rrenl,  nature,  on  TniKMuiii, 
J'y  tilntitvraiit  un  atliTV,  otiricr,  Mtulu,  nu  eUut; 
3'y  (ibtinus  no  Wit,  chaiimo,  tiiUo,  o»  nwcftu." 

"  Henrmuc  qui  <]i»i<;«iiii»it  laiua  oonlor  n  •m, 
8uu  clxirclicr  leu  homumn^  ma  exeitsr  I'rarltf, 
Dftni  Im  puluii  d«g)  gmncla,  |ioii  jnlntu  d'Atra  admin, 
Kt  panni  mi  ^gaos  tmtt  cboi«ir  avu  auia." 

AcTiioH  CxKsovni. 

How  many  tfaorc  iint  among  tlio  bnxy  workcn  uf  social 
lifu  «hain«l  to  town  dtitJc»,  €an»,  and  occupntionN,  livitifi; 
In  Mil  atmovnliere  of  brioks  and  mortar,  who  have  n  Kccrut 
psasion  for  flowers  and  bortu:ultiiro !  Such  was  my  ncc 
lor  many  n  year.  TIim  pinwion  bttret  forth  in  rarly  yotitli 
in  an  enthiiNioiitio  devotion  to  botuny,  which  h:i<l  to  be 
Burmoutit^d  and  surrendered  with  a  eigh  for  tc"*  fiisct- 
nating  hot  more  important  eluilics.  If,  later  in  life,  in- 
viilidixm  haH  brought  witli  it  any  iwlaoc,  any  comptriisation 
for  a  forced  withdrawal  from  the  active  dutlcH  of  an  "  ex- 
oelaior"  career,  I  hare  found  it  princinally  in  "flower*," 
and  in  their  cultivation.  To  a  meiliciil  man  the  study  of 
flowers  and  plant*,  of  horii culture,  has  nu  exceptional  and 
poculiur  charm.  It  is  merely  continuilkg  in  the  vc^'table 
trreatiou  the  profeseional  study  of  life,  of  its  fuuetioun  and 
diMMae.  The  fu-Kl  is  a  frcxh  one,  but  the  main  facts 
ollMmd  and  itudtvd  arc  the  Mnie.     Indeed,  I  may  safely 


96 


THE  RIVIFRA    AND  MENTOKE. 


ray  tlist  tlie  analy^in  uf  ttio  jilii 


jf  life  in  llie  veg»* 


tubl«  wurld  has  niucli  agitruudiKud  utiil  4le«pcii<Hl  my  know- 
ledge uf  tliu  (amo  pbeoomena  ia  the  humBQ  boing.  .Man^ 
are  tlie  eirnrs  commiltml  by  Iraninl  (ihysictiuiit,  which'  if 
commU(«i]  liy  a  gan]«n«r  in  hi*  cliiKHhousee  would  co«t 
him  his  phux  in  three  moiithe.  lli«  jilant  clienU  wuuM 
fade  iimi  dif,  and  he  would  l>o  turned  oQ'  as  "  iiKxinii'i'tent." 
Au   old   viritiiT  on   widening,  whote   iinmc   wcapes   me, 

3naintly  rcnaarka,  that  a  tlowimng  nluiit  isi  litte  awry 
ulicately  organized  human  being.  If  irentcd  with  (<wter. 
in^  mrv  and  nltuntiou  it  returns  the  Inljoiir  und  iiflVction  a 
hundr«iiru1d,  and  beoonivit  a  thing  of  beauty,  producing 
lovely  flowers  to  rejoiei'  the  heart  of  the  friendly  owner, 
But  if  negleetcd  and  ulMnduncd,  or  treated  with  eaprtciuuf 
teudcriiess,  it  fades,  droofw,  and  dies. 

1  have  long  had  a  j^nlen  in  henthor'clad,  6r-coverad 
Surrey,  where  Hammer  (lowers  smile  on  roe  when  I  rctuni 
from  the  South,  but  it  is  only  a  tew  years  ago  that  tb 
thuLi^Ut  came  to  eeljibliiih  n  ^nlcn  on  the  Hinny  shorw  a 
the   Kivit-ni.     At   fir»t  I  was  ntistied  with  the  luxuriant 
wild  rejiKlalion  of  winter  in  this  nijiiiii,  with  the  sun-^hine, 
and  wiih  the  natunjl  beauties  of  the  district.     Aa  I  bccAuie 
more  and  more  familiarized  with  my  winUr  home,  I  began 
to  grieve  thnt  the  |ir(.-ciouii  yiiiuhine,  light,  and  lioat,  that 
surrounded  tne  should  be  turned  to  so  little  horticultural 
account.     Nature  in  the«e  soiilliem  regions  is  luft  pretty 
mnch  to  henvlf  as  ivgnrda  Howem,  and  il  i«  tiurprtsiiigwhat 
lluricuUural  wonders  she  does  produce  unassisted.     Tb«ii 
the  desire  came  to  see  what  I  myrdf  could  do  with  tb 
gardening   lore  previously   aciiuired    in    Kuf^land.      So 
purchased  a  few  terraces,  some    naked   rocks,  and  ao  oil 
mined  tower,  on  the  mountain  side,  near  Montone,  aoni< 
three  hundred   feet  above  the  sea,  with  a  wmth-wt^^tcri 
awpect,  and   sheltered    from   all   northerly   windu.      Hen; 
linuginj^  as  it  wera  on  tltc  fbink  of  the  muiinlaiii,  1  M 
to  work,  nwioti^l  hy  an  inli^tligent  peasant  from  the  Dei^ 
bonring  viibffi!  of  Urimalili,  whom    I   have  ruiiK'd    to  tin 
dignity  of  iiejd-gardeuer,  and  in  whom  1   hav«  suci 
in  instilling  nuile  a  passion  for  horticulture.     We  think 
luiw  done  wonders  m  the  course  of  a  few  years  only. 


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J 

FLOWEES  AND   nORTICULTVRE. 


97 


w  the  iveulU  oUaioKl  throw  a  oonsidernlite  1tf>ht  on  the 
winlvr  cliiiMit«  of  this  part  of  the  wurld,  I  slniH  brk-Hy 
narrate  tbcin.  I  cm  encouraged  to  <1<>  noalvo  hv  the  rvlk-c. 
tioD  that  sliQutil  this  work  lull  into  t\\e  liancls  of  others 
Uyiog,  like  luyself,  to  eeUblieh  a  winter  ^alcn  in  tliu 
•outk  or  Europe,  my  espcrteiice,  Flight  ns  it  yd  i*,  toity  Iw 
ofvomc  kviiil. 

I  would  firstly  re^wat  that  I  think  I  hnre  found  oat 
why  iiortictilture  is  so  utterly  ne^lvcti-d  in  the  lioulh  of 
EiirojH',  and  in  warm  coiinlrien  gvnvndly.  Mon;  ordinary 
garUvnin^; — tliv  ciiltivtition  of  eominon  ({urden  flowers — is 
attended  with  cunxideraMe  expense,  owinj;  to  the  neoeseity 
of  Slimmer  nnd  wen  winter  irrifTstion,  if  any  de-^rce  of 
cxcdlenoc,  or  if  certain  nisullii,  are  to  bo  ubtuiiii.-(l.  In 
dimate*  where,  ua  on  the  Kivtera,  it  does  not  rain  from 
April  until  Oct«l>er,  where  the  rain  faltti  tropically,  in  ea- 
tuTsels,  at  the  autiimnsl  and  vemul  fqtiinoxes,  and  where 
lifti-n  ill  midwinU-r  there  an  iU"nf;hts  nf  «ix  weeks'  duru- 
ti»u  iiiuler  an  unlt'nt  burnii)>;  kiih,  frequent  wnt4!riti^  lic- 
Gomw  itidinpenMalilc  fur  mo«t  garden  [i1atit<>.  Thu^'  udili> 
tional  hibour  is  retjuired,  nud  a  htravy  expense  entitiled, 
in  addition  to  that  of  the  ordinary  work  of  the  {prdeii. 

On  thtt  other  hond,  Koolheriiers  of  the  higher  and  middle 
dacses  are  thrifty  and  economical  in  tht^  extreme,  have  few 
ontkta  for  activity,  and  are  at  the  same  time  indolent. 
Thowu  who  have  projK-rty  iiHunlly  live  on  one-liilli  of  llieir 
iuoomv,  and  {Hit  by  the  rcHt.  They  thusi  provide  t'i>r  th<;ir 
ehililrvn,  and  yet  ean  remain  quiescent,  taking  life  easily, 
and  npi'ndin;;  their  days  in  an  agreeable  statA  of  "dolce  far 
uiftnle."  By  vueh  jK^riKonii  horlicuHuni)  expenKee  are  con- 
ei<lvnKl  an  exUuviigance,  and  those  who  indulge  in  them 
ore  thoii-;ht  to  bo  alt  but  demented.  Should  misfortune 
OTortflke  ihem,  and  their  Gitancial  cireuniKtaneiti  bei-ome 
cniburrassud,  it  ).■>  all  atlrilmted  to  the  gardening;.  'Hicy 
understand  paying  labour  for  jilanting  and  irrigating 
Orange-trcee,  Cabb.iges,  Peas,  or  Wheat,  because  theru  is  a 
return— a  nrofil  on  the  tnninaetioii ;  but  to  Mpend  gnotl 
montjjr  on  lU«ea  and  Ja*mtneB,  unless  to  make  ]icrfumi'ji  for 
iiri'hension.   Thus  mv  Men 


pas 


comp! 


iieigh- 


\/uun  long  thought,  und  |UTha[M  Ktill  think,  that  I  anL 


II 


. 


98  TUB  RIVIERA  AND  MESTONE. 

prcpirinf*  for  the  erection  of  a  largo  bouse,  and  nearly  sll 
tliu  miieuns  in  thv  country  have  ii|>jili<;d  to  me  for  my 
jiiiln>i)ii^>.  Tlifv  cannot  under»tjitKl  »ny  one  miiking  a 
rnvTv  tlower  fi;aru«n  for  |>l6asure  on  tlie  mountain  nide,  ft 
mile  or  twa  from  tlie  town,  so  I  am  aski-d  l>uilding  priMs 
fur  llie  :ill  but  uorllilvw  rm-ks  iimiind  me,  and  Diid  it  diffi- 
cult to  vxU'nd  my  tiorlioiOltirul  domain  ai  I  xtioiilil  wi«h. 

Till!  »i)il  or  the  garden  is  tlie  uHiial  lime  xoil  of  tlio 
country,  farmed  by  tbe  lireulc  up  of  the  oolitie  limestone 
rocks  Mtiich  form  the-  ski-k-ton  of  llie  divtnct.  Itieli  in  the 
miiienil  fli-iiifnts  reijiiired  fuf  vegetation,  it  in  poor  in  ifmug, 
in  the  or^iiio  constituents,  fo  that  it  requirfs  manure 
to  Lriug  out  its  poirers,  wlii';l>,  with  the  addition  of  tbe 
lutle;,  are  cousideruMe.  Tlie  clim.ilc  nf  Mentone  is,  aa  n-e 
buvc  seen,  n  wry  pcouliar  one,  and,  aUhoiigh  th«  preceding 
chapter  contains  a  full  account  of  ita  mete'iroloi;ieul  oha- 
rui-ter,  it  may  be  as  well  to  briefly  recall  tbe  cbief  "  borti- ' 
cultural"  fealuncs. 

From  the  iR-Rinniiiji  of  April  until  the  end  of  September, 
or  the  U'Kinning  of  OctoWr,  tliere  w  m>  tain  at  all,  exi^ept 
6n  ocoa^iimid  thunder  storm.  When  these  Ktiumtt  occur, 
either  in  n  inter  or  summer,  nothint;  can  be  grander,  more 
aublime,  than  the  socnc  ns  witnesced  from  my  f>urden,  or 
from  any  mountain  height,  'lliey  are  quite  tropical;  the 
Hashes  of  lightning  iltuminate  tbe  heavens,  revealing  every 
one  of  the  mountain  rcccnec,  partly  covered  witli  dark 
clouds,  and  tbe  thunder  [wela  and  reTcrbernlcs  from  crag 
to  « rag,  as  iftbc^kies  werealwut  to  fall; — Die  sky  is  clear, 
the  sun  ardent,  the  liyht  intense,  the  heat  varieii  from  T** 
to  Hi",  and  is  nearly  the  same  by  day  and  by  night.  Be- 
tween September  and  April  about  twenty-live  inches  of 
ruin  full,  the  greater  part  about  tbe  autumnal  and  vernal 
ecjuinoxes.  Prom  tlic  middle  of  December  to  the  middle  of 
February  the  night  minimum  i»  about  H"  Fab.,  the  day 
miniintini  about  54",  in  the  shade.  Two  ur  three  times  in 
thu  winter  tbe  thermometer  (foi-s  down  for  a  night  or  two 
to  as",  30',  34%or  even  to  30'  in  exposed  situatioiis,  at  tie 
moiiib  of  tavinea  and  torrents,  on  the  dca  nhorc,  but  it  never 
fn-exw  in  lens  exposed  loealitics.  These  temperiitun-s  of 
mid-winter  and  mid-summer  arc  reached  by  a  gradual  fall 


I 


t 


FLOWERS  AND  HOBTICULTHRE. 


99 


nT  the  thermometer  in  autumn  as  tlte  dayo  sUorton,  and  1>y 
•  i^dunl  liae  in  spring;  .is  thtry  increase  in  length.  The 
•ntjre  rcgiun  w  prnU-clvil  Ity  im  iutiphitli<!utro  or  ncmicirolu 
of  nii>iintjit».H,  •lumc  LOOU  ft-el  1ii&;ii,  from  nurlh,  north -wr-nt, 
and  nortli-east  winds.  Tims  the  inbabitants,  animal  and 
VL-^ctalde,  arc  like  plnt«s  in  a  pliito-wanncr  before  a  kitehcn 
fir* — riilriietl,  tlii!  "iiii ;  or  like  fniil  treen  «n  it  nouth  wall. 
$nch  lire  the  data  on  whtoh  the  veg^etution  of  the  distriet 
is  linked;  longdrouxbtawithnbigh  temjitrature  in  summer, 
ftll  Ifiit  LropicAl  ruiR''  from  the  couth -ww^t  or  sotith-eaHt  in 
Biittiinn  und  ngirint;,  dry  miiiiiv  \rt.Mthcr  in  winlor,  with,  fur 
tiro  muritbs,  a  night  iniuiniutu  tt-inpcraturc  of  about  44", 
A»d  no  Troets. 

Such  climatic  conditions  nra  peculiarly  nnitcd,  aa  alrendy 
Htotvtl,  to  the  Olive,  the  Lemun,  and  the  Oraiigu  tree,  which 
caver  the  hill  sides,  and  constitute  all  but  the  boIc  a^ri- 
cultural  produov.  In  the  <^rdcnE,  sia-li  as  thoy  are,  mo<illy, 
if  Dot  cutituly  phiutcd  iii*  ii<ijiin<-t)'  t'l  the  villas  boilt  fur 
fftruigent, many  flowerti  and  jiliinlti  will  thrive  and  blu^oni, 
more  or  lean,  all  winter,  with  x-iirL-ely  any  eare.  Tliim  the 
fnlloM'inj'  grow  iuxiiriantty,  and  most  ivjh  stand  the  summer 
dniiisht  without  inigaliiin  : — Aloe,  Cflctacew  in  •roneral, 
Menembryunthemum,  Irin,  Maritime  Stjuiil,  ('inururiu 
manliiiia,  Alysoura,  lloaeroary,  Thyme,  WullHotver^,  Stoeliti, 
Carnntton",  .Marguerite,  Geriioium,  I'dar'^'onium,  Miiri^old, 
AnibiK,  Siiene  [xmilulu,  IViiiuda  (<i)mmon  and  Chim-se), 
VinK-td,  Paimies,  Nemopliila;  llepatioji,  Kksi-h,  t'hry^^inlhe- 
miim,  Salvias  of  nisiny  kiii'ls.  Lavender,  .MIuii:iU(-lle, 
Fubriiiiiu  imbrioata,  Jii«Lida  alhu,  ToImioco,  red  Vuleiian, 
Ujplnie,  Spirca,  Aeliiik-a,  Vcronion,  Erica  Meditcrranen, 
Niialurtinm,  Habrothamnus  elegana,  Lantana,  Abuttlon, 
D«tur»  Stramonium,  Liniim  lni;yniim,  Spannannia  Afri- 
oniutj  Petunia,  Cyelanien,  ('am<'lliiis,  Axiikim,  Ciilla  /Ethio- 
picB,  Itichnnlia  .Elbiopiej,  Wiifandta  Caniiiwaiia,  IJif^ 
UonidB,  ]{e^oni«e,  C'inerar i-t,  Verbena,  Cytisu^,  Cistiis,  many 
apeciM  of  P.UKion  llon*ei»,  Cboruxflmn,  and  most  Aiu-liulian 
winter  Hutveriii^  Mimocie  and  Aeaeiu;  iiprin<;  bullw — 
CroouH,  Unotvdrop,  Hyacinth,  Raimuoulua,  Narvi»u)>,  Txiu, 
Sparuxtd.  Ax  i>tatc<l,  mo«t  of  tbrso  plants  can  rest  in  thu 
warm  dry  aummer  without  being  injured   thereby.     They 

u  2 


100  THE  RIVIERA  AND  MESTOSB. 

nro  lill,  or  ncnrly  all,  porpnnini  in  this  climate.  TItey  : 
iuto  life  wiili  the  niittmin  mine,  (Inwcrinn  more  or  lew  wirW 
in  the  wiDler  nr  itpring,  and  moKt  of  ttiem  otintinue  in  full 
bloom  from  Christmas  to  April,  a  innnth  which,  hofti- 
ciiUnrnll}-,  con«fipon<ls  to  Juno  in  Enjflani]. 

Most  w,-inti*r»,  in  Eng'liiml,  ]mrn|!rrii]>bii  appear  in  Uic 
nt^n-Bpapers,  from  reHidentu  in  the  more  favouroil  roj^inns  of 
our  inlnnd,  eivinp  lists  of  Iho  flnwers  still  blooming  in  their 
gurrlen*.  Il  miiy  V-  remarkcil,  however,  Hint  tTirsc  lists 
never  appear  utter  ('hrif.tniiii',  i)r  the  end  of  Dweinlier  nt 
the  latest.  The  fact  in  that  in  Knitland  Novembi-r  and 
Deet'mber  are  generally  rainy,  and  not  very  cold  months. 
Altb()iij;h  the  wenthor  is  very  often  damp,  fo"gy,  cool,  iia- 
favourable  to  hnman  brallh,  it  Kcldom  Hetiially  (nvXA'»  bo 
ss  to  destroy  vej^table  life,  The  bard  frosts  of  winter 
(•encrally  commence  about  Christmas  or  the  week  sn«r, 
and  then  the  autumn  fluwere  nrc  all  dotroyed  to  the 
ground,  and  no  fwh  llorieultuTal  pnans  arc  poMibk. 

On  the  Genoiiie  HiriiMra,  on  the  contrary,  afler  Christ- 
mas, if  there  h.-is  been  sufBuenl  rain,  TCf^etation  takes  ft 
start  and  rapidly  trains  ground,  under  the  infliteitec,  not 
w)  mtwh  of  a  bigb  ni^ht  tempemlnre  (for  we  feci  the 
Jantury  cold  of  efntincnt^il  JCurtipi-) ,  but  of  the  inerMaini; 
Icni-th  of  the  day,  and  of  the  ardent  light  and  suiisbinc  of  | 
an  imdoiidfd  sky. 

The  imireawd  leni^li  of  the  day  ia  scarcely  sulBcientlj^ 
estimated  in  caleuUtinj;  the  effect  of  temperature  on  ve-iB. 
tation.  I  was  much  etriick  by  its  action  in  Entfhmd  in  iho 
your  ]S(!T.  The dayn  wrre  more  ibiin  usuallyoold  and  rainy 
until  August,  and  the  thennometer  at  ninlit  often  went 
d"wn  ni'iirly  to  the  freezing  point,  and  yel  vet^tatinn  pro- 
(jressed  miiell  as  nsual,  eaeh  plant  and  flower  coining  to 
mulnrity  at  about  llie  UHual  (leriud.  Kvidfollv  the  iuci-eas* 
injr  length  of  ihe  day,  and  the  decre.iein^f  Icngib  of  the 
night,  n-er«  favouring  and  advancing  vogclation.  Thuit  on 
I  thr  north  shorvof  the  Mediterranean,  although  in  Uecember 

I  an<l  January  the  days  are  generally  days  of  warm  anient 

I  sunshine,  they  are  so  short,  »ay  nine  or  ten  boure  otily, 

I  com|>ared   (»  the  odd   nigbt«  of  fourteen  or  lifteon  hour*, 

I  tJint   vegetation    receives   a    great   cbeck.     Uuring   tlieae 


FLOWERS  ASD   HORTICULTURE. 


101 


: 


montho  tiu!  guii«rHlity  of  flowcnnt;  plants,  altbousli  theve 
ii  nn  froMt  uni]  no  cutting  north  wiikIh,  n'mtitti  rattier 
Btatiotijiry,  witb  some  brilliant  exceptions,  only  well  formed 
bada  opeoin;;  out. 

Moet  ol'  tlic  ub<>vo- mentioned  pliint«  hnrc  been  long  tried 
in  tho  gHrdenit  of  tliiK  purt  of  the  world,  and  have  bceu 
f'liuud  adapted  to  the  soil  and  climate.  They  eurvivo  the 
eummer  beat  and  drou;;fat,  and  require'  merely  common 
csf«,  with  nrtillciat  irrigation  iu  autumn,  tf  the  autumn 
ruins  fail,  as  they  oceuvioniilly  do,  in  order  to  thrive  utid 
doner  in  tlw  open  air. 

I  commenoed  my  gardening  with  tbe  already  well-knon-n 
plants,  and  soon  eccorod  flonvrs  for  every  winter  mo[)th  in 
sulli(ji<-nt  nitundaiiee  to  deceive  tbe  eye  and  to  innlce  winter 
liiok  like  Kutnuivr,  both  iu  the  open  garden  and  in  the 
drawing-room.  Now  I  am  trying  to  cultivate  §om«  of  the 
flowers  belonging  to  tbe  lower  UtiluJcs  of  tho  southern 
hi'miKpliero  ul  Australia  and  South  America,  wliicb  bloom 
lutwrally  in  winter,  and  whicb  we  cultivntv  iu  winter  eon* 
Mtrvii lories,  iiud  buve  found  that  the  winter  heat  in  sulliuicnt 
to  llower  many  of  tlivm  in  tbe  open  air.  Thus  I  bare 
pLintetl  in  tbe  open  air,  in  an  artiHeial  prepared  Bi>il,  Cho- 
rozemas  and  Kennodyas,  Isiae  and  Si>araxi;',  whtulk  Imvu 
pBMvd  through  tbe  winter  in  good  bcialln,aud  have  ll>jwered 
fri>oly.  1  bwvc  repeatedly  tried  Ep:ioriMa  and  Cagie  lieatlis, 
tbinking  that  tbey  would  thrive  in  such  a  climate,  wbieh 
must  be  very  simiur  to  that  of  Australia  and  of  tho  Cape 
of  Good  Hope.  They  g*;t  thro'igb  tho  winter  very  well, 
but  wither  and  die  iu  summer,  more,  I  ri'nlly  believe,  from 
vtatil  of  proper  shading  and  watering  than  becaose  the 
climate  is  uosuit^ible.  This  §eeim,  however,  to  be  the  general 
expitrienra  of  horticulturists  in  the  south,  for  tbey  arc  not 
found  in  the  eatalogmrK  of  the  leading  houseN  at  Marxeillea 
and  Nice,  bii-aiim',  I  wiin  titld,  they  did  not  an^wi-r.  Thus 
I  hud  to  aeud  for  tbe  plants  1  have  tried  fmm  Kngland. 

On  arriving  at  my  Iliviera  garden  the  last  week  nfOclolwr 
T  am  able  to  form  a  pretty  eorrecl  idea  of  tho  manoor  in 
whieh  Uie  plants  haw  stood  the  iuflucncKi  of  the  scorching 
hrat  of  mimmer.  Six  months  of  bhuting  snnsliim-,  whieli 
ao  heats  the  ground  that  if  the  peaiiuttci  touch  it  barefoot 


102 


THE  RIVIERA    AND  MRKTON'B. 


tlio  mIm  of  their  feet  ore  Imnit,  without  clouda  or  rain, 
Lnrrini;  a  very  exoi-ptional  almtvcir  »!'  huir-iin- hour's  dura- 
tion, are  calculated  to  teat  the  idiosyncraBy,  the  peculiar 
constitution,  oi'  any  plants.  The  tlieltored  sitnndon  of  tlitt 
gnrdt-n  nMidcra  it  pofnliarly  tryiTi;»  in  numinor,  for  it  i»  in 
ao  an^lu  of  Uiu  limwlcnie  nnilt,  Moutli-i-utt  and  west,  and 
expoded  to  tlifi  full  powur  of  the  sun  atl  day  long.  M^' 
pnrdeaer  rather  quittntly  tvlls  me  that  in  midsuinmcr  it  is  . 
a  IVirnocc — "  C'etl  atrarne  Caiftr,  t/UMtimr." 

The  plants  tliat  xtand  thix  xun  hi-ut  and  ilroiighl  the  best 
without  any  irrigation  are  the  plants  whiirU  are  natives  of  _ 
the  country,  and  which  in  it  find  their  natural  habitat,  tho 
C')nditioni>   most   favotirablu    to   their   vxiiil«nce,   nc\i    M , 
Thyme,    Rosemary,   Cioemnu   inariiiniB,  tiwcct   Alyssum, , 
Ijavatera,  Iris,  Scilla  maritima.  Juniper;  also  the  Cactacea» 
ill  ^encial,  the  Aloe,  the  Meaetnhryanthemiim.    They  still, 
alter  all  this  roostinff,  look  porfeully  well  and  lloiirithint;,. 
All  thi'Si^  phiiiU  have  very  lonjf  iihruiin  rnoU,  which  in- 
xintiuCu  thcmHclvcs   into  llie  cri'vicwK  of  tin-  melt*  in  thai 
aeauih  i<ir  nioiiitiire,  and  prolialily  find  it.     In  thin  re>j>eot,j 
however,  the  Geranium  and  the    Pelargonium  apjwar  to! 
rival  them.     It  is  positively  mnrvcllous  how  well  thvy  kuiirj 
thtt  iMiut  and  tlrou^^ht ;  they  thrive  in  the  roeIii<-«t,  wanntMt, ! 
drievt  part  of  ihe  )^ard<!n,  and   at  tlio  end  of  the  Hummtr, 
when  even  Ahies  are  droopiiijj;  for  want  of  moisture,  they 
ore  all  rif*ht ;  lliey  have  mcri-ly  lost  the  greater  part  of  their 
lviivi->-,  nnd  UK  rc.idy  to  start  into  fidl  luxurinneo  iin  soon  ns 
they  nre  watotvd.     ^[y   ^irdcner  trit-d  an  ex|>Rrimcnt  one 
summer.     He  had  several  lar^  Aloes,  wet!  E«tuhlished,  a'ld 
planted  in  the  warmest  regions,  in  a  IViot  or  two  of  soil  only, 
III  curiiors  of  the  rocks.     Hu  U-lt  them  entirely  without 
wut«T  all  summer,  an  aho  GirranitimH  iiml  tVliir±>(iniiiuii  in 
the  same  locality.    When  autumn  arrived  the  .Moi-s  ajipeand 
to  have  nearly  sucvumlN.'d,  fur  their  thick  leaves  fell  llaccid, 
am)  appeared  partly  withered,  whilst  the  iieranitims  an<l 
i*>-l,ir>^niums,  also  lefl  to  themselves,  were  all  ri^hl  nnd 
thmrishiut;,  hoatinff  their  companions  l>y  a  long   way.     I 
muHt  add  that  when  the  Aloes  were  watered  they  soon  fitted 
their  leaves,  pricked  up  their  hcad^,  and  in  a  couple  of 
weeks  were  as  healthy  and  as  good  looking  as  any  io  tlia 


rUOWBBB  AKD  HOBTIOnLTDKIS.  103 

garden.  No  doubt  this  is  the  way  they  meet  sacli  trial* 
Mid  tDisfortuneB  id  their  own  conntiy.-  The  Geraninm 
fljDwera  all  winter  sparsely,  and  prornBeljr  by  March.  The 
ciwicest  Petargoniums  become  large  bushes,  and  nower 
sparsely  in  March.and  profusely  inApril,iu  the  open  ground, 
in  iunny,  sheltered  spots.  From  this  may  be  drawn  the 
moral,  that  in  our  own  country  they  may  be  planted  in  the 
driest  places  and  safely  left  to  nature. 

The  Aloe,  Squill,  and  Iris  may  be  pnt  in  the  same 
category.  They  seem  to  care  nothing  at  all  for  sun  roast- 
ing and  Bcorchin^r.  The  large  bulb  of  the  Sqnill,  the  root 
of  the  Iris,  may  be  pulled  up  and  left  in  the  blazing  son 
for  weeks,  and  yet  once  planted  and  watered  they  will  8(arG 
and  grow  as  if  nothing  had  happened.  Another  feature 
connected  with  them  is  that  they  are  what  my  gardener 
calls  "  det  man/ft  tout,"  that  is,  they  take  complete  posses- 
sion of  the  soil  around,  and  starve  out  everything  else.  If 
planted  in  little,  or  indeed  in  all  but  no  eoil,  they  thrive 
und  do  well,  but  attain  no  great  size.  If,  however,  they 
are  planted  in  a  boixler  with  a  good  d^pth  ff  the  lime  siil 
uf  the  country,  they  start  into  vigorous,  deturmiuti'd  growth, 
throw  out  strong  roote  in  all  directions,  and  smother  all 
other  vegctatiuii.  The  Aloe  especially  seems  determined  to 
have  the  border  oil  to  himself.  He  sends  out  roots  ten, 
tifteen,  or  more  feet  lonir,  and  at  the  end  of  these  roots 
ap[)ear  new  plants,  wiiiuh  if  left  to  themselves  would  soon 
vie  with  their  parent  in  hungry  desperation.  We  have 
been  obliged  to  take  up  the  Aloes,  the  Irises,  and  the 
Squills,  whieh  we  had  placed  as  edgings,  untl  put  them  on 
the  top  of  a  wide  wall.  Many  of  the  Aloes  we  have  put 
"in  prison,"  as  Anloiue,  the  gardener  says — that  is,  we 
have  built  small  nooks  and  corner  terraces  for  them  against 
the  rock,  and  have  put  them  there  by  themselves,  us  in  a 
penitentiary,  where  they  can  do  no  harm  to  anything  else. 
1  have  left  one  large  fellow  in  ten  feet  of  soil  to  do  as  he 
likes,  and  it  is  a  pleasure  to  see  the  vigorous  manner  in 
whicii  he  is  growing.  Within  a  few  years  he  has  become 
a  giant  in  size. 

I  have  no  doubt  but  that  tlie  Aloe  might  he  cultivated 
protitably   on  the   arid   ttanks   of  the   mountains  of  tho 


104 


TOE  mVIERA  AND  MEXTONH. 


Rivi«ra.  Its  leaves  contain  abuodunce  of  stron;;  I'tiutie 
fibrM,  which  nre  easily  eitracteii  by  u  procwvofiiULvratin^ 
iind  clcnitiiijr  in  ]kIi'xico,  iu  nntivc  couuir)'.  Tbvy  are 
impoTlvd  to  a  ooiisidi-rubli:  extent  int»  Bn|2la»()  for  bni«b- 
maliin;;.  In  Mexica  tbey  tm  also  used  for  making  ntpi'*, 
nvU,  aud  mats.  Another  specivs  is  ciiltivatt<(l  in  Mi-xico 
for  the  nko  of  th«  jiiic«  of  the  IcavoK,  with  wlitcli  an 
alcoholic  driiitc  called  "  pulque"  ix  made. 

The  enduranee  of  hvat  «hown.  by  the  Sqtiill  (ScilU 
mnritima)  ie  not  surpmin^,  for  1  found  it  iu  the  dritsfc 
piirt^  of  Al-;«rtn,  and  was  ttild  that  it  pcDi-triit^'O  into  the 
di'«t>rt  of  8iihai»,  and  wait  nil  lint  the  Ia«t  pknt  to  Kive  in. 

llie  itnmo  rcnmrk,  but  in  a  minor  derive,  may  be  miide 
with  regard  to  all  the  other  plants  that  are  natives  of  ilia 
country.  The  Cineraria  marilima,  planted  in  a  boi'der 
M  itli  plenty  of  soil,  inntoad  of  Win^,  as  usual  bore,  a  small 
Fhriib  gToning  out  of  the  creviciw  of  the  rocks,  becomes  In 
a  year  or  two  a  hnne  bush,  a«  does  the  I^avatera,  the  very 
ptL'tly  mountain  Miillow.  We  ^t  )(00(l  plants  of  Cineraria 
marilima  by  pnllingj;  tlicm  out  of  the  orevicce  of  the  limr- 
&U>ne  rocks  RfW  heavy  rains,  which  have  rt^uchcd  tb«  root* 
and  luofcnvxl  tliem.  I  dare  not  Kiiy  where,  aooording  to 
Antoine,  tlivsi*  rool«  go  tu,  but  they  certainly  go  a  lon^ 
way,  I'ur  they  sometimes  como  out  several  feet  in  length, 
TIu-Tliymi- and  Itosemary  also  grow  with  wihl  hixununca 
when  platiti-il  a»  an  cdt;i»^  to  the  buniere,  hu  as  even  to 
Dstoiiieli  tlie  natives  ol'  the  ooiintry.  The  Thyme,  as  a 
dwarf  dense  shrub,  so  cuveivd  with  tlower  in  early  ^^prin^, 
tliiit  tbe  leave*  can  scarcely  be  scon,  is  reidly  bcautiliil.  As 
I  sit  writing  these  lines  in  a  Fern  (grotto  or  KumnRT-honw 
ovcrlnoking  the  sea  aud  the  Meiitonc  amphitheatre,  llie 
Thyme  bitvhcs  scent  the  air,  and  are  covered  with  real  wild 
"  ]>i);iirbn  bec¥." 

Ditfen'nt  speeies  of  Mi-Kcmbrjanthcmuni  also  ifrow 
without  care  or  irii^tion  iu  the  warmi-nt  n^gions,  Iiaii^iii;; 
down  theKunbdrnt  walls,  and  on  theshipin;;  baiik!>  and  rocka 
in  hnge  veidant  festoons,  liko  rivers  of  verdure.  W'hetl 
planted  so  an  to  banjj  dtjwn  jH-rjicnUiciiUr  walls  there  conies 
a  t'ine  when  the  mere  weight  nf  tiic  mass  uf  llcrhy  hnves 
ttningtm  the  plant  and  it  dies.     I'hey  require  a  good  supply 


I 


k. 


FLOWERS  AND  HORTICCLTUUE. 


105 


K 


of  mrth  for  th«ir  ruiiU.  They  begin  to  flower  in  Mjrcli, 
iiikI  iiro  ill  full  llower  by  the  bi.-;;ii)iiiiis  or  iiikMIl-  of  April. 
Tilt-  K-jirk't  varicly  is  tnoru  eepc^iiully  •jrnml  wlini  cuverod 
witb  ttiouNindK  of  Howciv,  which  mukv  the  wiill,  or  rock, 
or  bank,  one  ^li>wiu<;  maun  of  Noarlet.  There  is  a  flower 
Kl  tbfl  sxil  ofvvery  lleehy  leaf. 

AllfurtflofCackic^ietluurish  in  thesamo  vi'*oroiiKnintiiier; 
they  •ei'in  lo  beublcli*  iive,  like  the  Aloe,  oil  un  iiiriiiitesiinal 
iiipply  ufnirtb,  mid  they  ni>|i<*iir  only  to  waiitsoin«tbiti<;  lo 

id  oil  by.  t  {irciume  tliul  a  lurge  prqioitiun  of  the 
••{■ccies  of  tliis  family  would  survive  here  in  the  open  air, 
K>  out  of  a  collcctioD  of  tlirue  btindreil  difiitretit  fpeuiea 
leceivtsl  from  n  wvll  known  PHrisiiin  rtowct,  M.  I'feredorff, 
and  (iluntml  otit,  more  than  ttvcthiriU  Itiive  iiurviveil.  Tlio 
Opuotia,  or  Prickly-i>ear,  soon  lieLMmcK  a  ;;roteBt)u«  kind  of 
tn-v  on  the  Riviera,  de  in  CoKica,  Surdinin,  !^icily,  iiikI 
Africa;    but    it  is  not  much   rullivatod    on   the   I^igmiuu 

«t,  ivhert!  il»  fruit  ut  not  ii<.-ld  in  much  i-Ktei-tn. 

Kuxcjt — Hylridv,  Ti-.iit,  livn^l*,  Multiilorts,  BankMoa, 
Ceiitilolias— be^in  their  npriiig  flowenn*;  in  M^rch,  and 
flower  oa  freely  in  April  and  May  as  they  do  with  us  in 
Jiiiio  and  July.  If  not  allowed  to  cshimt^t  themnrlnii,  kept 
nt  r«l  diitinK  the  hot  monttiK,  mid  wul«fed  from  September, 
the  IlybriJit  and  Teou,  eiipeciiilly  the  (Jloire  de  I^ijon 
lod  Sofraiio,  make  a  now  growth,  Uowrr  freely  a»nin  in 
antuniii,  October,  Xorember,  and  DeceinbiT,  and  ^jmrvely 
tliruu£;hout  the  winter  in  warm  shi-lti-rud  situation*.  In 
audi  loculilivn  the  Uougala  and  monthlien  flower  I'redy  all 
winter,  ao  tbut  there  are  alwayn  Koflex  for  bouijueta  even 

midwinter,  grown  in  the  open  uir. 

Chrj-snnthemuins  1  find  in  full  f^lory  on  my  arrival  in 

tobiT.  lliey  CDiiiinue  tlowerinjj  uniil  C'liri-lmiii'.  Th'-re 
ia  one  birge  wliite  i<|te<.-ii.<«,  of  u  Irailini;  liiibit,  which  m  oer- 
fecitly  lieauliful:  it  eovere  the  ground  wiUi  lovely  wliitv 
Sowvn',  and  looks  like  a  bridal  bouquet.  Very  eoon  ap|>ear8 
the  Linum  Irigynum,  which  thrivi^B  and  flowent  like  u 
tQooeeberry  biixh.     The  noil  and  eliniate  must  he  jiiit  what 

requinw,  for  tt  t;rotvs  readily  from  euLlJii^>  without  eare, 
tonnn  ingurous  plants  without  manure,  and  beur^  myriiids 
of  huudsume  yellow  tlowore,  which  continue  until  Alarch, 


146 


THE  RIVIBHA   AND  MENTON-R. 


I 


by  wlikli  time  every  brnndt   i*   cnvettd  with   Mi-d-pod 
GszoiiiiiA  lire  <iuitv  bnrdy,  lloweriDg  in  Miircli. 

One  of  the  w  inter -floweriiiff  shrutw  wliicli  does  the 
and  Suwere  the  mo&t  freely,  is  the  Ilahiuthatnims  vli'gMM^ 
It  throws  n«  a  hiii^h  some  ten  or  fift<i-ii  feet  hi^h,  im  in 
fluwvT  by  initnniii,  atii)  U-am  myriiKlx  of  llotvcra  mil  wiiiter. 
The  A(rfrati)malK»  Dowers  all  winter  freely,  in  the  driest  and 
rocbii'alparUorthe  garden.  It  grows toa  pood-sized  hush, 
tind  is  one  maae  of  bloom.  The  eamo  may  be  Hiid  of 
the  compPfiitc;  O- teoi'])rrntiim  liiid  of  ihe  Puttim  Stra^ 
moiiium. 

The  Da^ylirium  thrives  thoroughly  in  tho  open  proiind; 
Sonic  pluiita  reei-ivei)    from    Algiere  u  few  yeiire  o-jpi,  anil' 
phintcd   in    rocknork,   have  become   larj^c   and  buuiitirul 
spocim(-n»!. 

The  HeHotmpe  lii^eii  the  lime  foil  and   the  sunny  di 
weather,  for  it  grown  and  thrives  like  »  Ijlat-kheiry  biisli, ' 
flowering  profiiscly  all   through   llio  winter  in  slRltircd 
sunny  situations.     As  it  does  not  die  dotvn,  but  bi-eomca  it| 
larft"-'  lis'tfci's  shnih,  and   heare   itn   swert-Mrcntrd   evcp*' 
renewed  tlowern  on  every  twig,  it  ia  an  irn  purl  mil  feature 
ui  the  winter  garden  at  Mentoue.     Its  hi-nlthy  luxuriance 
iit  January  and  Fehniary  ia  also  a  good  test  of  the  mildness 
of  tho  totality,  and  of  its  tnimunity  from  froet.  In  th»  shiule 
nnd  in  cx|K)i>«d  Bitimtion*  ii  doi-s  nut  die,  but  vegetaliw  and 
thiwera  sparm-Iy  only  during  the  winter. 

Luntanns  also  (lower  very  freely  diirinv  the  autumn  ani] 
winti.T,h(comiiiglnr(*clisiK'oUK«hriilis^ne;irly  trees,  indeed 
They  M,'eni  to  retiuire  little  or  no  carr,  and  jfrow  well  in  dryJj 
rocky,  suDhurnt  Kituatious,  bearing  the  Eumnicr  heat  and 
aridity  uninjuivd. 

Bougainvilica  epectabilis  is  generally  considered,  I  b»(| 
lieve,  to  nquire  rallii-r  a  hi^h  temperature.  I  have  had^l 
howt'ViT,  ^t-vi-ra!  plimU'  tfrowinjj  in  iho  open  air  for  »om( 
year*,  nhieh  are  peil'eetly  heulthy,  and  are  (lowering  fre«'ly. 
1  was  led  to  plant  them  out  owing  to  the  lullowing 
circnm!^tnnc«s ; — Id  tho  garden  of  M.  Thuret,  the  uelU 
known  hotimist  at  Anlibes,  whieh  is  moro  esposed  and 
colder  than  Mentotie,  1  I'ouitd  on  April  ii,  the  nontli. 
easlern  la^-ade  of  the  house  completely  .eovHvd  with  a 
nagniliccut  Boutin villea  spoctabUis  in   full   Hower.      U 


FLOWEKa  AND  HORTICULTURE. 


107 


iraly  a  s|>k-n(lt()  ii;;l>1,  for  the  entire  front  of  the  house 
vra»  otio  lit.i7.i-  witli  tlii;  llon't^n  und  rose-uolourecl  tirnotii  of 
this  lovely  cHmbyr.  Oil  my  n-liirn  to  my  country  reaU 
ilirnvc  at  Weybridjfc  I  was  sur|>ri8ed  to  tiotl  »  Bous»ii)viliea 
four  yvixn  old  in  lull  dower  far  the  first  time,  hair  tilling  ii 
bothouae.  In  this  house,  which  hiid  alwiiye  Ixii-n  he»lC(I 
antil  that  very  winter,  t!i<!  l)i>u^.iinvillL-a,  planted  in  peat 
und  leuf-moulii  iu  a  Iwrder  fontied  hy  biitrking  up  an 
lin{{Ip,  had  tliriven  but  never  (lowered.  Owing  to  altcru- 
tionii  it  Ijiiil  W-n  kept  eool,  the  frowt  mori'ly  hiivirifj  bci^n 
kept  out  of  tlie  homo.  My  nirdonur,  whn  liiid  lived  fori 
muiiy  years  in  a  leiding  hortienltural  cstalitisliineiit,  t'jIdJ 
mv  that  he  had  always  kuotvn  the  IIoii};uinvillea  treat4.>d.] 
hy  hut,  nnd  was  siirprist-cl  to  sec  it  Hower  so  wry  freely 
under  oool  tmtment.  Thift  reiuilt,  liowovor,  euincidud 
wilh  wliiit  I  had  witne^e'l  at  .M.  Ttnirot'ii  at  AntiU'i*.  I 
nijy  ud.l,  that  I  hove  also  ainoe  seen  it  Hi>weriiig  profusely 
in"i'lv  und  ontside  a  siiinll  trln^^liouse  at  Alphunse  Kerr's 
l^iirdon  at  Nice,— at  the  Jardin  d'Kssai  Algiers,  at  Malta,  and 
in  Siirily  on  noulli  wulls.  In  the  nme  house  iit  Wcylirid^ 
Wtf  have  lI(iweT«<)  for  yeiirn  in  MtioccKHion,  in  niodernl«  heat, 
oilier  plants,  [tignotiia  j;i4minoid«R,  and  Khynohospermum  I 
juiimiiioides,  nsiinlly  treati'd  with  beat. 

The  Mwcet  Alyssum,  so  much  usci)  with  us  as  au  edging, 
ia  A  native  uf  tlitM  country,  and  ^^ws  luxuriantly  in  the 
orevices  of  the  lime  rock*  on  th«  wido  of  the  roads  every> 
where,  indeed  flowering  freely  ail  winter.  Like  thv  other) 
iiiilives,  if  furnished  with  plenty  of  soil  it  becomes  quite 
hu-h^,  and  i«  then  nne  muss  of  Howers.  Chinese  I'timnUis 
HnUI'Uh  M  iM^n'uniilii. 

A  remarktilile  feutiirc  In  Itivicra  gardening  in  that  many 
n<iM'erR  which  with  us  are  annuuU  and  die  down  in  tlis 
autumn,  lire  here  perennials  and  attain  a  ooiisidemble  size. 
Thuii  Fetuniimiinrvive  the  winter,  and  speedily  become  largo 
biishet*,  whieh  ate  covered  wilh  Howom  cairly  in  Februarv  ;  by 
lliv  end  of  that  month  they  arc  quite  g«r.;eoiw.  Cxnia- 
lionx  uUo  ilo  not  sutler  from  the  winter,  and  beeoine  larg« 
bimheit  if  taken  care  of;  they  (lower  sparsely  during  wint«r 
in  the  sun,  but  not  in  the  slin<le.  Pinks  bloom,  but  noti 
until  A[nri|;  Ten-week  StockH  and  Wnllflawem  becoiitu 
br^e   permanent  husliea,  and  arc  vpleiidtd  in  Jklarch,  Uio 


108 


THE  ItrVIERA  AKD  MENTOSE. 


8u>oks  ea[>eciiiUy  an;  duzalina  witli  tlie  profusion  of  tlie!^ 
flowers.    The  singular  Coecoloba  platycladou  llourUhcs  b»  a 
huffis  bitsh. 

Tliu  Nucissufl  and  Tulip  seom  to  like  tfic  lime  aoil,  and 
grow  will]  in  [iroAirion  oil  Homu  of  the  cuUivaUd  t^rrnoes, 
80  mucib  »»  iii  I'l  1)6  a  uuiiiiinL-v  to  tiie  a^ricuUiiri^U.  Tliu 
Natx.-igf'Ufi  begins  t«  (lower  in  January,  the  Tulip  not  uiilil 
(111-  tiiidilli*  ot  February.  Hyacintluinro  founil  wild,  but  not 
iiliiiKbinlly ;  ihcy  llirive  well  in  th«  *o\\  of"  tlie  country, 
Tbt'i'e  which  I  liuvii  Inviti^lil  from  Knglntid,  Ituwered  in 
]iot«,  and,  flobse<iuenllv  ('bnlod  out,  have  since  bloomed  in 
tbe  open  tjiirdi-u  as  bnlli.-iiitly  as  tho  tiist  year.  I  pruoiimu 
ibe  climalu  is  very  mucli  like  tb»l  of  Ou-ir  nntiv<(  counlry. 
liideod  tliey  do  WtU-r  in  thu  ltin«  t>uil  o(  this  region, 
eli^htly  manured,  than  when  planted  in  Clieetnut  mould. 
]n  the  Ifflttt-r  they  jfrow  too  ranlily,  as  if  the  soil  were  too 
ricli  for  ttiom. 

Primrysfji  and  Hi'paticutr  nrc  found  wild  nbund&ntly  on 
thtf  »liiii[y  nidc  of  a  dcs-p  wutiTcoiimr  llii'iiu;xli  a  dundet'ini) 
valley,  culled  the  i'rirnr>i»e  valk-y.  I  havu  placed  tliem  in  a 
light  arlitii^ial  soil,  where  they  lioufish,  as  do  Cyclamen 
pL'reictim,  Crocnsi'S,  and  Snotvdrops,  the  Inlter  brought 
fi-om  England.  Snuwilraps,  however,  singularly  uiiough,  do 
not  fliiwer  before  Juniiary  or  1-Vbruury,  as  in  the  north. 
They  retain  their  natural  habit,  an  does  the  Peach  and  Apri- 
cot will*  ns,  and  die  out  aHer  a  year  or  tno.  as  iiorlhernera 
unKuib.-<l  Ifi  the eliniiite of  the noulh.  Ktinnnculi  dn  very  wi'll 
even  in  the  lime  itoil,  but  belter  still  in  a  lightartifiuiul  mould. 
They  Hower  by  the  eud  of  February,  and  are  very  lovely. 

Camellias  and  Azaleas,  and,  in  general,  all  plants  with 
wry  imiiH,  delicate  roots,  do  not  eiiccecd  in  the  lime  «oil, 
whieh  Ncemx  loo  Ftitf  and  hot  for  them.  In  the  abnenoe 
of  peat,  which  ii  ditTK-ult  to  obtain  in  the  dry  stinbunit 
regione  of  the  south  of  Eurii[K'i  it  is  UKiial  to  plant  them  in 
Chestnut  earth,  mould  formed  by  the  decay  of  the  Cheninut 
leaves  in  Chestnut  tree  forests.  But  at  Menlone  even  this 
4-urlli  i»  diHiciilt  to  obtain,  and  expensive,  for  it  has  to  be 
fetched  by  tnule*  from  Mniv  tvn  miles  or  more  in  tlie  moun- 
tains. Ilowever,  I  scouiied  out  all  the  earth  Irom  a  sninll 
slightly -shaded  terrace  dotvn  to  the  rock,  and  lilted  it  with 


FLOWEim   AND   HORTICl'LTtrRIl 


109 


an  artificial  aoil,  fonned  of  ttvo-thirde  Chcslout  e«rtti,  one- 
third  siknd,  iiti<l  K  liUlo  powdered  ch4iri»iil.  In  this  border - 
I  pluntvil  Catnc-Diai  and  Azll]^aH  «ovcrnl  ycara  affn. 
Tbry  liiive  done  very  well,  without  any  protection  wiiit«r 
or  Mimater,  and  the  CamolliaB  have  fluwered  freifly  each 
winter  Trom  ChrivtmnN  to  April ;  the  Azahas  do  not  bloom 
until  April.  Ijotu-ily  my  gardener  hn»  discovered  iu  ilns 
liigb«r  moiintaiiia  a  rettion  cuven-d  with  Calluna  Tulgarix, 
oar  ling  h^atiier.  The  eoil,  to  the  depth  of  several  inches, 
is  formed  hy  tliu  deciiy  of  tlnf  hentlirr  leaves.  1  have  hiul  a 
t|iiHntity  or  thix  tioil  brou^^ht  down  here,  filled  two  ti.-Tr4cc« 
hewn  out  nf  the  rock,  away  from  olive  ruots,  and  have 
planted  them  wilh  Camvllian  from  hago  Mn^xiore  wbivb 
are  doint;  very  well.  I  therefore  eonnider  the  question 
•oIvihI  itx  to  the  adaptability  of  the  climate  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  Camellias  in  the  open,  provided  n  proper  soil  be 
eiipplicd,   Aeyvt  they  have  not  Wm  ^r»wn  in  this  district. 

The  CajM!  JuKmine  or  (iardenia,  plaiiti,'d  ont  in  Uicku 
artificial  m\\»,  {^>ws  bixuriuutly,  and  ia  covered  with  W4:tl- 
fonned  buda,  which  bloiwom  at  the  end  of  May  and 
heuinninif  of  Jane.  The  (gardener  telli  me  that  tlie 
IIowcn>i  aro  very  l>cii<itirul,  but  that  their  odour  is  very 
bad,  actually  poisiuiin;;  the  (jarden.  This  view  of  the  cii»u 
ii  a  gi>od  illu«tra(ii>n  of  the  inditrcreocc,  nAV,  po>iliv«  dislike, 
of  many  nitiithirntm  tii  the  iKenta  which  wi.-  ptixe  the  movt, 
whiUt  thfiy  Mt-m  to  poaiiivcty  rejoice  in  the  most  viDanoit* 
and  Biiiiit  unwholesome  odoiire. 

X  mittt  aot  (ortjct  to  siy  u  lew  wonN  nlwut  the  Salvias, 
many  tpveica  of  which  llnwcr  and  floiiriiih  throughout  the 
iviiitjir.  The  most  valiial;le,  however,  are ;  the  ijalvia 
cardinnlip,  or  imperinliu  a»  it  is  uilled  bore,  the  Salvia  ^ 
KC«  lie  nit' Horn,  and  the-  S.  ^ph-iidenx,  The  former  [imwK 
juxuriiinlly  as  a  large  li^iieotis  bush,  from  live  to  eij^ht  tei-t 
hi;;h,  and  ia  oovered  with  a  profusion  "f  terminal  crimson 
flowcrv.  It  begins  bo  Auwer  early  in  Dcci-mher,  and  cun- 
llnnca  to  pmwnt  a  fforgvoue  dabm  i>f  bloom  for  a  couple  of 
months.  The  two  tatter  grow  and  flower  with  the  same 
liixitriance,  be<^inni»;;  to  blowom  about  Christmas,  and 
c><i>tiiiiiiug  U>  form  daxzUng  mamea  of  Bcarlet  flowcm  uUj 
winter.      Tbvy   really    ore    perfectly  splendid,  and   bol 


110 


TUK  AlVIEUA  AKD  USaiTONE. 


dcepTve  Ihc  cpitlict  "  »pl*ii(lmF/'  pppcciuHy  when  in  eld 
proximitv  to  n  liirfru  biihli  ni'  llii'  Miir^ii-rilo,  or  Clirvviii 


tt 


fruti 


Ut^e 


icoaura.  Thici  latter  sliiiib  UMiiiiies 
piw,  snd  W  the  middle  o)'  Febniaiy,  in  the  sun,  is  covered 
utth  thousands  of  Duisy-like  tlowvrs,  n-hich  look  like  a 
fherl  t>f  M'liile.  The»e  plant*,  with  tb«  NuKliirtium,  otxnipjr 
a  iirnmiiient  plate  in  our  winter  ^nlenirir  fiom  the 
liijtiirianct'  ff  their  bloom.  The  Nuntiirtium  flowers  freely 
111!  winter,  but  in  the  ewn  only,  becoming  u  ligin-ous 
pcri'iuiicl  elimbt^r,  ^J 

Tlio^oil  of  my  ^nnlcn  nnd  rocks  bein;;  entirely  calcareous  i^^l 
not  fnvourablctollio  gem-rul  run  of  CoMilVrs.  Tlicrc  lire  some. 
liowi^tT,  wbiL'ti  iwcni  im'iiHiirly  iiuiti-d  to  niicb  ahiIk,  :uid       , 
thrive   on   catcareoua   rocks   all    over   the   Mediterrnn<fln 
basin,  such  as  Pious  mnrilimn  iiml  Pinuv  hulcpuntiiii,and  most      ' 
Cyprcwi^,  wpiciiilly  CiiprwHus  pymniididia,  C  ni«i.-rooiir|>a, 
C.  Liiiiiln-itiatiii,     The  very  liinuliful  Norfolk  Inland  I'tni^^^ 
Araucariu  cxccUia,  seenm  to  yrow  vi^rwisly  in  ihis  »ii]3PV 
There  are  t>everat  very  lieaiititiil  f^pcciniL-ti8  at  the  Moiiuco 
(jardcns  which  have  gronn  to  n  hfiyht  of  IS  fi-cl  in  lct« 
thon  four  yeHR<.     I  found  them  llourivbini;  t)l#o  in  Ihi'  lima 
voil  of  Multa.     There  are  several  speciefl  of  Juniper  uild  oa 
my  rocke,  and  thiiving  luxuriuntly. 

Uanauiiit  crow,  lioun«b,  and  Hpcn  their  fniil  in  jiJiellored 
wuim  localitica,  sa,  lor  instance,  in  the  ^ai'den  of  Cienenil 
^Ivuton,  on  the  biai'li,  belon'  the  Ituc^'iihrnna  stHlion.  I 
imported  from  Alpora  w-vcrul  Abyi'i'initin  Mumii^,  the  Mu^a 
ICoiivIe,  which  hiive  (irown  vi^rouxly  in  my  t:urden  and 
have  become  very  bcunlifiil  "  trees,"  in  tbe  course  of  lem. 
than  three  year*. 

Inipre«fed  with  the  idea  that  in  A  elimatc  where  thi 
Date  Palm  flouriehea  so  well  other  hardy  Palms  migh' 
•uoceed,  1  seot  to  Algiers  and  Marseilles  for  iboHC 
marked  half  hardy  in  thi;  eatulogui?,  plunted  them  out, 
nnd  HuocoMled  in  (cettm^  many  through  the  winter.  The 
Cliamnrope  humilis  proves  to  be  perfectly  hartiy,  which 
was  euro  to  be  the  cflKc,  ii*  it  vuceeedH  where  tlie  winter 
climate  in  much  more  severe  than  on  ihia  coaat.  Titus  it 
grows  freely  and  abundantly  in  Mindy,  uncultivated  loca- 
lities in  tbe  soutU  of  Spuiit — in  Andalusia  evpcciaUy — w 


.id 

1 


FLOWERS  AND  HOBTICULTUKE. 


Ill 


frwly  ii)<lee<l  asGorse  on  our  commons ;  and  it  used,  it  is  mi, 
to  ^row  wild  ill  Pruvcnoc  and  on  tlic  Rivii-rii.  The 
(')iaiui?ro|<«  Putmvttu  iiad  exoel^a  «Iho  liavi!  MurvivMl  tJte 
wtnlen  in  perfuot  health,  as  likewiiie  Uttuiiia  ilorlmnicii, 
UoOM  ol«rucou,  Phoinix  rttnnoiM,  Siilinl  Adniiwiiii,  Chamai- 
lvi|M  etaurncitntliit,  Oreo:loxii  S>iiniX)nH,  and  Rhuiiitt  lliiliolti- 
t'ormitf.  Uthcnt  die<l,  but  I  Iwlieve  that  1  did  not  )i;ive 
th«m  B  fair  trial.  They  camo  to  mu  from  a  li«:ited 
Palm-huusc,  and  veto  at  once  pluntinl  out  in  Novcmhur. 
PerhapA  tliL-y  noiitil  liavf  Hurviv«d  had  the  tcaniiitioii  Uon 
We*  Hitddvn.  Whiit  mukva  me  think  ao  ia  that  aotae  |>]iiatit 
of  liiuiim  trigyniim  which  as  I  have  Btaled  is  perltctl/ 
hard)'  hcii;,  flowurin^  profuMcly  nearly  nil  winter,  received 
from  MurMcilteM  nt  tW  Mine  lime,  no  douht  Trdra  ii  plant- 
hoaiie,  hin^i»hed  and  perished.  Mureuver,  the  I'lilniM  were 
planted  ill  the  lime  soil  of  ihy  country,  and  more  extended 
rxpcrienctt  of  the  Pttlin  trihc  in  Africa  and  .Spain  h.is  led 
ma  to  coiieludv  that  to  gire  tliem  a  fair  chancu  the  soil  la 
which  they  ur*.*  pljuited  :<liriuld  hn  oilher  mainly  ur  pnilly 
fliliceoii*.      Certainly,    n-henever   I   have  Mti-n   th<-    IMni 

.crowing;  lEixuriantly  in   moMos,  thv  soil  has  heen  of  this 

'Miancter. 

For  many  n-jntcra  I  hav-o  lieen  in  the  habit  of  putting 
Palou.  principally  Lalania  jlorbouicii  and  Corypha  auxtrali*, 
in  [>ots  and  XaJarHiniifei,  and  keeping  th«ia  in  south  draw- 
iD|;-raoin»,  in  n  day  tempviaturo  of  from  dt'  to  Vi^',  and 
niu;ht  tcmpcMture  of  Ai  to  60*.  They  remain  |)erl'cctty 
healthy  all  winter,  and  on  refrnttinj;  them  in  the  !>nriii|j:  I 
generally  lint)  their  root*  quite  frch  and  sound.  Palms  are 
much  UM-d  in  thiii  way  in  I'ariti,  ev«n  in  winU-r,  for  house 
diHioration.  They  are  very  ornamental  in  ruiniia,  and  very 
Ijiurdy,  bt^arint;  the  drync«i<  of  the  atmiNiphorc  ot  inhahitetl 
koiuce  with  ap]>itn;nt  immunity.  Indeed,  it  ii  Knt]i>;ii.-nt  to 
visit  the  Falm-houMS  on  the  Continent  in  apriuf;  to  bu 
(nnviuced  of  their  hanliltood.  I  may  mention,  as  an  illua- 
trutioD,  the  I'alm-hoii«c  of  the  Dutanio  Oanlon  lit  Mont- 
pulivr,  whivh  I  vUited  one  year  at  the  end  of  April.  1 
found  it  perfectly  crammed  with  Pdlma  of  all  SDrtit,  riinall 
and  lar^,  which  had  iicurc^ly  ntoiidin^  room,  and  yet  (hey 
ill  ap{ieflre<l  to  bu  healthy  and  doiii(f  well  nller  a  loaj* 


113  -niF.  RIVIERA  AND  MBNTONB. 

vrintrr'it  con  ii  DC  men  I  in  n  liiilf-iigUted  lean-to  1>uili]iTi)>,  I 
wttB  twid  that  in  aummer  tlie^  nere  nearly  ull  ptit  out  in 
the  Ksnkn. 

Wiebint;  to  luiCCTtein.  hy  pononal  obwrrntion,  what 
light  horticulture  throws  on  thu  cliraatu  of  other  protectml 
regions  of  the  north  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  more  to 
tiie  v/eet,  in  the  npring  of  1H<I6  I  made  «  hoTticiilliiral 
exciirnon  from  Mt-ntonc  to  Mancillcs,  Bturling  Apr 
th«  loth. 

At  Nice  I  cKaminn)  the  j^riteDa  of  Count  ^fa^^aria» 
M.  Gastaux,  and  Biiron  Vi^ricr.  Id  all  I  TonDd,  ns  in  mj 
own,  the  onliiuirv  oprin^  lh>wcn',  Siilvian,  Iln-ris  Kcmprr- 
virviiii,  Silene,  llyacintli,  Narciasus,  lianuaculus,  Vir-sj 
giiiisn  Stock,  Roinf?  off.  Rosqb  oomin|r  on. 

Coiint  Mur};ariit's  f^nlc-n  ts  more  mpccially  remarliahte 
for  hilt  ctdlivution  of  tin*  Camellia  in  the  0|>cii  air.  Hi-  hiia 
scores  of  lai^  Camellia  trees,  from  ten  lo  litleen  rr  Ivvciity 
feet  high,  suvh  as  are  seen  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Como,  all 
lookin;{  perfectly  hoalthy,  and  coven-d  with  thonsantls  of 
flowers.  Tlie  CVvitnt  told  me  that  hu  hnji  liMtn  cultivntiDf 
Cumellin*  for  many  years  at  Nice,  and  had  ohlaihe<l  mcaE 
of  his  trees  from  Conto.  They  had  f;ivoii  him  {•rest  trouble. 
He  hfld  tried  varioiiK  artifwial  noiU,  tho  cidairoouM  soil  of 
Nice,  a*  stiitM),  not  HuitJn^  Camellias  or  fiue-roo1i-d  pliintg 
in  general,  lie  hod  planted  them  in  eoiU  com|>06ed  of  ' 
charcoal,  decomposed  manure,  and  vanil,  and  in  chestnut 
leai'-mould,  the  tiaual  M>il  !«lect«i)  in  the  !^>uth  of  Knropc,. 
hut  had  never  been  saliahed  with  the  results  oUained  nntil  ] 
he  imported  soil  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Lake  Como, 
whieli  ho  ha<l  done  nt  a  great  cxpenite.  Thiit  mil  la  a  rich 
loamy  i>eat,  more  compact  than  the  peat  of  the  north  of 
£nKipe,  appateiitiy  containing;  a  cofiEidernhlc  amount  uf 
onlin.iry  icar-mniild.  It  in  more  Ktiitcd  to  the  dr)*  iiir  and 
scorching  nun  of  the  Biviera  and  Nice  climate  than  ordi- 
nary [leat.  It  is  the  soil  in  nhich  the  Camellia  ^rowH  to  be 
a  tree  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  nnd  shows  such  surprising. , 
luxuriance,  on  the  shoiva  of  Ladcea  Como  and  Maegiorc.       / 

At  lirat  the  Count,  oonforming  to  tlie  ueonlideiis  on 
this  «uiijcct,  planted  his  Camellias  in  the  shade,  hut 
rvcuUecliug    that   the   Como    trees   arc   planted    in    the 


FWWERS  ASO   noRTirrLTTTRE, 


113 


Opes  air,  in  s  loculily  nearly  as  warm  as  Nic»,  he  boldly 
tnrrw  nsi<lD  nil  ntU-mpts  nt  ehiiJin};,  removed  or  cut  down 
ail  protection,  leaving  tbi'm  in  the  full  blaite  of  the 
sua,  and  tliat  wiUi  decidH  advantajre.  I  tnyadf  recollect 
^bcing  surprisi>d  to  see  the  large  tree  Cametlina  at  the  llaliaa 
Ite  in  full  Ktinrhinc,  for  wlieR-vw  I  have  lieon,  before  or 
nnce,  1  have  always  found  hidfHhade  inculcated  m  n  precept 
ID  their  cultivation.  Still  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
air  in  not  so  dry,  nor  the  mm  so  ardent  aittl  Hcorcliini;,  at 
the  Itttliwi  lake*  as  it  i«  on  ttie  north  ithorc  of  the  Mrditcr- 
nneui.  I  would  remark  that  these  lar^  tree  Camulliu^, 
eoYerMl  with  thousands  of  ftowere,  bcaiitifid  as  they  are, 
havtf  one  ereat  diiadvuDtngc  when  coni{inred  with  smnller 
tplautH.  Aft  t]>e  bloMotns  oome  into  Rower  in  Kucceesion, 
[iBot  all  si  once,  many  muBt  bo  Tadiof;.  These  faded  llowera 
'  not  fall  olT  for  vomc  time,  and  Fpnil  the  look  of  the  tree 
mleas  taken  ofTwith  the  hand  Thin  the  ganJener  does  in 
a  conservatory,  but  it  becomes  impossible  when  the  trcA  is 
oovered  with  myriads  of  flowers.  I'hus,  although  it  BW>tin<ls 
vety  grand  to  hear  of  Camellias  covered  with  thoiiFands  of 
bloMomx,  viii'h  Irece  in  reality  do  not  louk  an  wirll  when  in 
flower,  as  amalU'r,  more  manasenble  plants.  The  prineijunl 
sorts  cultivated  were  the  IriiW,  allm  plena,  varicifatii  plena, 
Ancmnna-floni,  incarnnia,  ulthii'ithira  plena,  llowonntf  tn 
K"Vinib.-r  and  Deeenibfr  ;  Henri  J-labre,  Uival  rorige,  pul- 
cherrima,  Printempe,  tIowerin<;  in  Jannary ;  and  Grand 
Monar<)ne  rwige,  flowering  in  February. 

In  addition  to  the  plants  which  I  have  de*eril>cd  as 
flourishing  throughout  the  winter  in  my  sarden  in  the  open 
ur,  without  protection,  I  found  at  Count  Mar-Aria's  per- 
fectly hcidlhy  apccimens  of  the  fnllowing  planiv: — Diwyli- 
riuiu  rolMiihim,  jutK-ifuliiim,  longifolium,  ttracile,  chniciim, 
etrictum,  Alsophila  exeelea,  Fiium  re|)enii,  Beauoami.'a  recnr- 
[vubi,  Ajniostu*  sinuat^ia,  (jrevillea  a)|>c<trii>,  Chiinttemps 
'  escelaa.  I)ambi)t>a  l-'ortniiei,  ituniia  villosa,  horrida,  Phor- 
mium  lenax,  Bignoom  llccvcsiunaj  Philodendion  jxirtusum, 
Bi^nonia  jastniiiilolia. 

The  ganlon  of  Uaron  Vigier,  which  riHes  by  a  t;cntle  slope 
from  the  sea,  looks  I'lttl  B()nth-we%t,  and  is  th<'ri>ii'^hly  hIicI- 
luied  frvni  the  north-east  by  the  mountain  of  Vdlefranohe. 

1 


114 


THE  RITIERA   AND  UENTONS. 


It  contains  inany  remarkuble  specuneos  of  Mine  of  th«  d 
BiVDlioiKil  planUt,  growing  luxuriantly  in  the  open  air,  m 
aim  muny  olhera,  amongst  wliii:li  I  wotild  nmnu  Yuoca 
|)eiidii]a,  qtiadricolor,  dnwonis;  UTiuieiia  Dnico,  guaU- 
malensis;  Greigb  sphaceluta;  Ficus  Cbauren,  I'orteuna; 
BrnliL'a  dulcis;  Dion  «!Oiil«,  Chainwrope  GliiLitbrc'^htii, 
tomenkin;  Anilia  daolvlir»lia,  Araucartu  cxm-Ikii,  gtimm 
robusta;  Melaleuca  erkifolb.  ^^ 

'rh«  ganlan  cruaUid  by  M.  Gu«Uitix,  notr  tho  property  o^H 
M.  Onmbatt,  oonlains  Duuy  uf  the  above  plattu,  but  is 
mure  eepednllv  remarkable  for  the  magnificent  specinuiita 
of  Uie  Miiea  EiiKutv  and  of  tlic  Araiicnnn  which  it  contains. 
Th«v  grow  atone  or  iit  ^roup*  on  the  lawn,  mid  urv  nl)  iwble 
plunla.  Two  Aunicaria  excelea  have  rapidly  urown  in 
liie  course  of  a  few  ywrs  to  an  elevation  o(  thirty-five 
or  forty  loct,  and  are  ]>erfevtly  *|)li;iidtd  trv*.« ;  their  foliage 
i«  giw*y  and  bright,  and  ea«n  whorl  of  braiichva  snoooods 
the  other  with  niatliematical  precision.  The  soil  and  dimat* 
ninst  tiuit  theui  tliorou^hly ;  the  former  is  a  red  cali-ureotia 
eurtb,  mixed  with  loam,  lliu  Muwi  £n«ct«  migiit  also  be 
in  its  native  AbyMioia;  in  three  or  four  years  Itiv  plants 
have  ri«en  to  a  lieight  of  above  twenty  feet,  and  coiMtitute 
one  maas  of  wide  graceful  leavn,  not  drooping  as  in  tlio 
common  wlihlc  Bitnaiiu,  or  torn  by  the  wind,  as  itre  nlwuys 
itiv  IfitvuN  of  the  latter  when  planled  in  Ibe  optn  air,  but 
intact  and  erect,  folding  i^ntovfullv  one  over  the  oilier.  Aa 
alieady  slated,  1  have  myself  received  <evend  from  Algiers^ 
whiuh  are  faal  becoaiinu  very  beautiful  plants. 

ThisKarduniaoDu  of  the  curiosities  of  Nice.     Itoocnp* 
a  larjfe  area  u  lillbr  ulwvc  the  rca  level,  nnd  biw  \Kvn  brougl 
into    tbortxitrb    I'ollivattnn.     Variuim   ovciiufK    have    beei 
foimt^d  of  Kuculyjilu^  globulus,   Schiniis  mulli,  MAi:nuln 

Sindiflora,  and  tlieyarenll  growing  with  amazing  vigour; 
e  two  foimci   bare  become  liir^c  IrocM  in  the  CuorH  of  a 
few  ycare.     The  Kucalyptus  is  being  planted  extensively 
ovirihis  iiartof  tlie  Mediterranean  shore,  us  also  in  Corsi< 
and   Algeria.     The  summvr  warmth,  the  mildm-as  of 
wtntcni,  and  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  appear  to  repro 
duce  ite  native  Auetridian  climate,  to  that  it  grows  with 
all  its  natural  vigour.     As  the  woud  is  liard  and  good— fit 


of  a  I 

pro-^^ 


A 


PLOWEns  AND  HORTICITLTUHB. 


115 


./or  l>uUdiug  and  ship  purpows,  iiotnitlistandiDg:  lis  very 
Bpid  growth,  it  is  likdy  to  prove  a  very  vtHuMv  Api|tiifiiliu» 
tbc  itrboriiniUtirtt  of  the  toulh  of  Eiin>pu.     TIil*  liirge 
•  nivutcii  n«nr  th«  railway  station  al  Nice,  the  g;rowUi 

'of  half  a  dozen  yoan,  well  illustralo  its  capabititius  a»  a 
tBpid  grower.  Monrnvcr,  it  iip)M.>ant  to  potauo  tin:  virl.iio 
arremivriiii;  malanouit  ivt;i»i)s  heiilth}',  pruhably  by  draiiiiiiij* 
lie  soil.  It  has  been  tried  in  inareh«,  but  does  not  thrive 
in  nctuidly  wet  land,  or  in  very  hot  rlimuto;. 

Oh  leavii));  Nice,  I  went  over  to  UuH'  Jiiitn,  a  few  miles 
am   CaniicB,   to  sue  the  gardens  of  M.  N'arhonnard,  a 

^irell-knowD  borticuUiirist  in  that  re^fioo,  who  supplies 
mo«t  of  the  Cmidm  gmdeni.  1  fotind  him  fully  uHvu  Ui  tin; 
oapuhihticH  of  the  itoi),  !,un,  and  chmute  of  lliin  puit  uf  the 
north  ^horo  of  the  MediU-rranmti.  lie  told  me  that  the 
ftilur«>  of  nuMt  minaltiin  to  laisc-  Pulma,  Dntcnuus,  Dii^y- 
Urinm,  Yuccat,  which  would  ri'^tly  grow  Mid  flourish  in  thiH 
region  in  the  open  air,  were  owini;,  aa  1  presumed,  to  the 
•pticimeiis  ptaatod  bein^  received  direct  from  hothouses.  In 
hie  estabhshmcnt  the  plaitU  rnis4^d  from  seeds  in  he-nt,  and 
kvpl  under  cover  for  a  year  or   two,  arc    put  ont-of-tluors 

'gradually,  kept  entirely  witJiout  protection  f»r  &  couple  of 
jeai-H,  and  then  only  ^ivcn  to  his  enstotnere.  Ity  such  treat- 
ment ho  ooldd  rely  on  their  «t«iidin(;  out  of  doors  the  eli^lit 

k-cold  oftoutlierH  winters.  He  showed  me  a  lurgo  eollect.ion 
of  planl«  usually  considered  too  delicate  for  outiluor  culliva- 
tioD,  evi-n  in  the  w>iith  of  Europe,  which  he  could  warrant 
to  Rt«nd  llie  winter ciihl  between  Toulon  and  Pifa.  In  nearly 
■11  this  region  the  ihermoincter  gooidowu  to  iliefrei-xingr 
point  or  to  a  dc^rcu  or  two  above  or  below,  sever.il  times  in 
the  winter.  Auion^  theM  w«ro — Phaxiii  puinila,  leoneiieix, 
nvliniitrtj  CoMM  eitn))>est ris,  Jlexiiosn,  auntriili"!  ;  Jiibuui 
Bpectabilis,  SeaforUiia  ele^aua,  Coryplia  uuilralis,  Dion 
Mol*,  Sbmin  horri<hi,  Cycu  revoluta,  Channeiop  elesans, 
Smoeoa  ourdyliDB,  Yucca  atoifolia,  glorious  i  Costiarina 
tenakrinu.  Btriota.  He  had  a  eollection  of  healthy  Araii- 
caria  exct-lsa,  from  two  to  three  feet  hi|j;h. 

The  next  day  (April  12}  1  man  nt  C'«iUies,and  went  care- 
fully over  the  garden  of  the  Duke  of  VidombroM.  whiuh  is 
very  sheltered  Irom  the  north  on  a  slopti  all  but  due  houIIi. 

Id 


II 6  THE  niVIKBA   AKD  MENTONE. 

1  finind  vps^atinn  qiiilo  ns  ntlvanood  ns  nt  Mentone,  Nityf, 
ftnil  (idirjuiin.  The  Mewrmbrjiinllicmum  Dovred  don-ii  the 
bank  siiieH  like  a  river  of  purple  and  libc.  Th«  Bunkeun 
ami  miiUiflLira  Koeos  were  in  bloom,  other  Ro«««  were 
bi^t^inning  to  opt-ii,  »*  idKO  Spiraea,  Cvtiens,  Fabinoa  im- 
bricatu,  iind  KHcx  arI)on»i.  There  were  in  the  open,  io  a 
vtate  of  perfect  health,  larjjo  specimena  of  Cvcasi  rcvoliiUi, 
Dion  ediilf.  Ch«n>tcr<>i»  ntcliiiiHii,  Phoenix  Iponensiu,  Arau- 
coria  Bidwillii,  Arnha  Sieboldi,  ^Iumi  Enrntv,  1>asyiiriuin 
loogiemmum,  Vucca  tnoolor,  Alaophita  austridis,  Khopala 
CoTOovadonsis,  Dranena  indtvi^a.  Indeed^  the  impreMton 
produced  upon  me  by  the  earvful  examination  of  thia 
oeaotiful  and  well-kept  Rardeo  is,  that  Mlthungh  vome 
regtoDs  of  the  Oenoeeo  Hh-iem  or  ^[editerranenn  uDder- 
difl*,  i^iioh  a«  Monaco,  Mentone,  and  St.  Kcmo,  may  he 
much  more  itkeltered  frooi  disagreeable  windit  than  Caimes,  j 
UmI  much  lefis  expoBod  to  ni;;ht  froete,  the  amount  of  nuq^sbM 
heat  reeeit'cd  there,  in  favoured  epote,  maet  be  ({utte  as^V 
grent  as  in  any  other  of  these  rcgioiiH.  I  may  asy  the  same 
of  Hybroa,  which  I  visited  on  another  occaaion  a  little  later 
(on  tJie  tiud  of  April).  I  found  vegetAtion  nearly,  if  not 
quite  as  odTan<vd  as  at  Nice  or  Cannes.  Although  mor« 
trotihled  with  the  mitlrat,  or  north-went  wind,  which  is  the 
peclilcni-e  of  the  South  of  l-Vance  or  Provonee,  it  luicrt  Hhsro 
in  the  general  eun^hont  and  protot^tion  which  pertains  to  tliu 
cowt  region*  nhfltered  by  the  Mariliine  Aljw  and  by  the 
Apennint-H,  aa  proved  by  it«  vegetation. 

From  Cannes  I  proceeded  to  Marsrillos,  and,  bettidea 
visilini;  the  ptiblio  ganienn,  wentover,  carefully,  the  beautiful 
griHiiidx  and  hothwiHes  of  M.  Scaramooeya,  an  eminent  | 
Greek  meivhani,  who«e  gardening  pslitblishinent,  1  mom  told^rf 
by  hortieiilturisU,  »one  of  the  bi'ol  ami  m(#t  complete  io^^ 
the  vicinity  of  Mar*.-ill«i.  1  was  intn-h  struck  (Aj-ril  13)  ' 
with  the  extreme  diftVreuoo  between  the  vegetation  of  tUia 
garden  and  that  of  the  protected  voaNt  linewbich  I  had  Ji»t 
lelt.  Tlic  recent  prewince,  and  the  habitnal  pn-ircnce  of 
winter,  wa«  evident  everywhere.  Allhongh  in  the  nme 
latitude,  the  want  of  prelection  fr4>ni  the  north  showed 
iteell  in  the  wmplete  alfenee  of  nearly  all  ooutheni  veyc- 
tation  »ucli  aa  1   have  described.     No  Lemon  or  Ornn^> 


A 


FIjOWRR-S  asd  horticulturb. 


117 


■ 


trees,  no  Palms,  no  Dniicamw,  no  Duvlirlum,  only  the 
most  hardy  Vuocod.  Even  the  aprin^  nowere  were  back- 
ward, itniJ  GuraniiimE  pluiit<>d  nut  recently  in  sliclUirod, 
Kunny  Hitiutiun*,  liiid  their  Ichvim  t>in<;i.-d  hy  fnMt.  Ddqi- 
(liioud  trves  sc^irculy  ithowed  iiiiy  evidence  of  lifi;,  and  ibere 
were  many  other  evidentea  of  recent  severe  weather.  The 
l^aidviiiT,  ■  viT)'  int«llif^Ql  man,  was  fully  aworu  of  th« 
lUUMC  of  thiit  >tutc  of  tliinf'i'.  Mari<i,*i]I^M  hiw  no  ri-al  pro- 
tection from  the  uoith  wind^,  \yhin  as  it  does  at  the  bottom 
of  the  funnul  down  which  the  llhone  dareccnds  to  tliu  sink. 
ThuN,  in  wiDter,  thi-  tlicrmometcir  oiU-n  goes  down  from 
lU''  to  !&"  below  the  fn^cxiiig  jxiiiit,  irhil»t  in  summer, 
owinK  to  its  southern  altitude,  it  is  burnt  up  by  the  scorch* 
in);  hont  nllvcUil  from  the  limestone  mountains  that  ttur- 
rouud  it.  Even  iDsiimmtrr  1  wuh  (old  that  the  thi;tni(iint-ti-r 
oooasionally  deactfnd*  buKiw  the  freuKing  point  at  night. 
Oa  ibo  other  band,  the  woutii-weet  wind  olten  blown  fri>ni 
iSlV  tarn  to  strongly  m  to  bend  and  brt-ak  trees  and  (rhriil^j, 
or  to  diispoil  tbeot  of  nearly  uU  their  foliage.  The  m<iMlh 
of  March  thitycarlmd  huen  nnuxually  Kuvereiind  ljoi»tcrciii«, 
and  many  sbruUi  that  bud  sLuod  tlieir  unround  for  years  had 
been  killed.  In  the  conservatories  and  hothouses,  however, 
1  found  ull  the  wotithcrn  plants  cultivated  in  the  opi^n  uir  in 
my  ((urden  at  Mcntune,  anil  at  ('uiinits,  Nice,  and  Hy^rei', 
Tne»e  plants  wei'e  niunt  luxuriant,  snd  olearly  required 
1k«s  nltcntion  and  beiit  than  in  similar  houses  in  tlie 
uorth. 


The  horticultural  knowledge  aciinired  on  the  lUviera  bas 
in  its  liiru  he«n  of  une  to  me  in  England,  and  some  of  my 
reudum,  gardening  im  Itob  sandy  aoil,  may  Ix;  iutcrcitvd  to 
know  hi>w  thin  knowledge  ho*  been  applied. 

My  suhurlKin  retreat  at  Weyhriilgc,  in  Surrey,  is  sitnatcd 
on  the  margin  of  a  (ir'covered,  lieutber-clad  f<.>rest.  Thu 
flower  gunlen  is  small, only  extending  over  nhonta  couple  of 
ucref>  of  itilie«ouH  oand.  The  »it«-  wai9cho)>en  lu  favournhlu  Ut 
the  health  of  man,  for  it  is  a  well  known  fact  thai  the  worse 
a  locality  is  for  the  cnltivation  of  plants,  the  drier,  the 
Windier  it  ts,  the  better  it  is  adapted  for  human  health  and 


118 


THE  RmERA  AND   MESTOSE. 


hdtnan  longevity.  Th«  coDveree  »  eqaalljr  true.  A  deep, 
taoist,  rich  soil,  calculatoj  to  f^upport  r»nk  fertility,  such  aa 
K  fotiiiil  in  V(itk7«,  on  the  hank*  of  rivers,  is  twt  one  ihnt 
tlic  leanicd  iu  medicine  would  choose  Tor  »  eonvAlcMent 
boepitd,  Bueh  »a  the  admirable  inetitution  on  Waltoa : 
ComnwD,  n  milo  or  two  rrom  mc. 

I  l>c<Min«  tlic  owiwr  of  Uits  wiDdv  el^'xitiin  many  yvnr*  , 
ago.  I  had  previously  been  absolutely  a  townsman,  my  liro 
having;  been  entirely  paired  in  two  great  cttiee,  Paris  and 
London.  What  I  kn«w  of  butany  imd  tiorticnlturA  was 
merely  what  tontianien  ^'t  out  of  botanioal  gardens, 
berharia,  and  oocaeional  holiday  glim]ie>es  of  the  conntry, 
their  "Arcadia."  I  entrnetvd  tlic  luyin);  out  of  nty  bit  of 
common  to  a  "nkilTul"  ktiiltw:ii)iu  gardrner,  re«ommrndud 
by  n  friend,  and  nu'delf  remuiued  passive,  mindful  of  lb« 
proverb  "jV«  tii/or."  , 

The  future  garden,  formed  of  eiliccoas  ennd,  containing 
n  very  »«inty  idlowanoc  of  vegetuble  noil,  nwlinl  on  un  iron 
pun  u  few  iiichex  from  the  surllaoe,  Nomc  three  int-hcs  thick, 
and  iw  Itard  as  the  foot  pavement  in  Fall  Mall.  It  waa 
Bi>ai'i<t--ly  covered  with  Heather,  Gorse,  and  Broom.  All 
this  was  removed,  and  the  ground  "  pii:tiire)'i)iiely"  hiid 
out  by  cartti)-;  thucoil  from  Llie  centre,  and  r»rmii)g  irre- 
{TiiUr  nlopini;  bedii  all  round,  in  front  of  the  dniwinji-room 
window^!,  and  at  the  angles.  I  paid  for  deep  treuchin;;  of 
the  entire  siirfuec,  and  IW  the  dowtruction  of  the  iron  pan, 
but  I  wax  not  there  to  suixirinlcnd  the  worki;,  and  it  was 
only  purtitdly  done,  ae  I  leanit  to  my  sorrow  many  ycara 
alterward».  Then  on  these  beds  of  sand,  raised  on  tJie 
unbroken  iron  pan,  wore  planted  above  7U/.  worth  of 
Ojiiilcrs,  cvergreena,  and  itliruhf,  the  garden,  it  must  boi 
re<;ul]<M;ted,  not  bein^  more  than  a  couple  of  aores.  | 

The  battle  for  life,  initiated  under  such  oonditJona,  waB-i 
attended  with  the  result  that  mi^lit  have  been  anliciiiAted 
ill  a  sunny,  hot,  dry  Kituuliun,  and  in  it  candy  Hoil.  At  th« 
end  of  two  yeant  but  few  of  thu  ran:r  iihrula  were  left, 
Bhododendrona,  fortu)^  Laurels,  Uemlo<^  Spruces,  Spruoe 
Firs,  Taiodium  semperviivos.  Hollies,  a  few  Deodars,  and 
Abies  l>»iigla»ii,  with  Lnbunium,  Ai^h,  and  Birch,  wen 
pretty  nearly  nil  that  ivmained,  and  they  were  anythinff 


FWWEHS  AND  HOETICOI.TUBE. 


119 


but  vii^rons  in  growth  and  size,     Then  followec]  years  of 
uapcrli,'>vt  Rnnlcn  dcvt-KipmiiDt, 

My  gLiritiMiiii;;  cxiktHl-iiw  han  tlios  beon  gained  on  twn 
rdifiercnt  soils,  the  one  calcareous,  tlie  otiier  siliceous,  both 
'yrtMnn'tng  very  little  rentable  soil.  It  has  lud  me,  in  ulL 
numihty,  to  quuntion  a  (loctrinu  recently  broiuihcd  by  oni 
of  our  gnat  botuuicjil  authoritieK — viz.,  ttie  adaptabiUty 
of  all  plants  to  all  soils.  In  the  battle  orlife  those  having 
nnluriii  uflinitics  to  partictdar  soils  seem  to  me  to  gain  tbo 
day.  or  courei^  in  rich  alluvial  M»iU,  more  leaf-mould,  all 
plants  thrive.  But  a  lar^  jwrtion  ol'the  earth's  siirfuce  is 
Dovurud  with  lime  or  sand,  and  not  with  deep  alluvial  soil. 

During  thMB  ycare,  had  it  not  bcirii  Tor  what  was  donv 

Bnder  |{bi««,  I  nbould  havu  durivi.il  but  little  plnirure  from 

Ithv  garden.     However,  thanks  to  tho  kuowled^  recently 

[■oquired    in  th<i  south,  which  thoroughly  applies  to  a  dry, 

[nnburiit   Eitgitsh   garden,   an  era  of    improvcniuiit    bos 

begun. 

On  diffging  down  to  the  roots  of  the  trees  and  of  the 
shrubs,  Co  see  why  tiii>y  did  not  thrive  as  they  ought  to 
have  duito,  I  found  everywhere  at  dill'i'TOnt  dL-plbs  lUi  iron 
[pan  J  fondly  imn^ned  totally  destroyed.  This  vtu  bi-uteii 
up,  removed  wlM!n.*vvr  it  could  be  |^t  nt,  and  replacL-d  by 
tb«  beet  soil  obtainable  in  the  nei|;h  hour  hood.  I  also 
lavoHod  moet  of  tlis  nised  beds.  In  rcjility,  it  is  purfoctly 
fKliouloni  to  nuilcc  raised  nlopin^  bciU  in  n  dry  wmdy,  sun- 
burnt Miil.  Nearly  all  the  rain  falk  otF  in  sumuivr  un  lirom 
a  gbiZL-d  siirlai-t-,  or  from  the  roof  of  a  house.  It  ia  still 
woiee  to  rai^e  such  sand  beds  when  they  lie  on  an  unlirokoii 
[iron  |uin.  The  only  plants  that  had  penetrated  thiw  iron 
,  pan  were  young  oiik»,  and  thiif  fact  IK  n  good  illuntralion  of 
the  imnieoae  tlriinglh  and  power  of  the  tap-root  thrown 
out  by  tJ»e  ooom.  Where  the  beils  were  not  levelled  *plit 
]engtliM  of  Firs  nlwnt  a  foot  in  iliamvtor  w«ro  imbedded 
'  soniv  lour  iitches  ut  the  margin  of  the  mbed  beds,  and  Bllod 
in  with  good  loam,  thim  arresting  the  rain,  and  preventing 
it  nmiiing  off  the  l>'>rder.  Plants  thrive  woudcrl'ully  bi-hitii 
Ilirnie  Kptit  Firs,  which  give  «  pictnresquo  fininli  to  the  be<b<, 
with  tlowenng  pl4iiC«,  such  ait  i'eluniai,  Verbeniu,  trailing 


120 


TUB  KIVUBKA,  AKI)  aiBNTOXf. 


A  him^riy,  mugre  soil,  Boch  os  I  d««criLe,  whieb  onas* 
BiBtetl  pTovn  unuDik  only  h  Cew  iiiclice  liit;li,  being  really: 
ini&pable  alone  of  doing  juBtioe  to  gatdeniiig  vSorts,  a  [^at 
quantity  of  {^oil  loam  and  sisnurc  was  mixed  willi  iL 
TkcD,  iniiU-iHl  or dqKiidiD^  cbieHy  on  nniiiiuls,  wbicli  in  drj 
Miuoiii  in  irudi  lujila  arc  tiuoii  burnt  up  uttd  pcristi,  n  large 
etook  of  the  plants  that  1  Gnd  do  the  best  in  tliu  drj. 
<:ltm&t4]  of  tlie  Aivicni  ig  prepared  and  plnnUnl  every 
where:  Snect  Alyssum,  Pcliir|roniiims,  I'eluniait,  and  Mu 
^uerit<-.i.  They  are  planted  out  and  never  watereil  after 
the  lirst  week  or  two,  even  during  long  periods  of  droii»lit; 

{'vt,  as  anticipated,  tliey  do  not  tla»  in  the  K-aiit,  and  ituun 
lecame  one  bluiie  of  bloom.  Ontiturea  candidiwinia  and 
gymnocarpa  sloo  do  very  well  witli  little  or  no  natoriug. 
A  margin  of  Alyssum  or  Centaurea,  with  a  thickly -planted 
I'order  of  PetuniiiK  or  Geraniums,  and  later  in  the  Hi:a9M>n  a 
luckgfDund  of  DaliliiiH,  look  reiiuirkubly  w«ll.  (jcraniums 
ilo  not  ^row  niiii^h  in  size  in  sudi  dry  soils,  but  they  flower 
fri-ely  in  the  hottest  und  driest  weather.  Amongst  foliage 
plunta  1  find  Irv«ine  IlerbBtii  a  failure  during  drou;*lit 
uitliout  water,  but  il  puKliex  up  with  tlic  autumn  rainii, 
nnd  look*  very  handvonio.  On  the  other  hand,  Amaranthus 
r'iber  does  very  well  during  lou^  continued  drought,  as 
does  the  I*;-nlla.  Well  manured,  tlie  soil  suits  admirably 
G  hid  lull. 

I  find  aliio  that,  imitating  the  doulh,  mnnh  more  orna> 
mental  use  may  I  e  niade  of  .\liie»,  ('uctaet'iu,  »ueh  an  Kehe- 
vonas,  and  of  hardy  Palms,  botii  for  garden  and  house  decora- 
tion, than  i»  u«uul.  They  reajuiro  but  little  beat  protection 
in  wintirr,  and  tlo  nell  in  Kuinmer  anywhere — indoor*  or 
out.  Palms  require  a  deal  of  water  whou  growing  in  warm 
weather,  but  Aloes  and  Cnctaoeie  demand  so  little  that  they 
really  give  no  trouble  ot  nil.  The  Aloes  too  reprodaM 
theiu^elves  very  freely  by  olT^hoolM. 

Subtropical  P^Ima  in  reality  are  very  hardy  plunts.  I 
bav<3  some  healthy,  vigorous  Pulinti,  Lut.tnia  Dorboniea  and 
Curypha  Australie,  received  lour  years  ago  from  Algiers, 
fh  inehcK  high  with  four  leiivee  Ibrmed.  They  are  now 
three  I'eut  liii;h  with  twelve  leave".  They  are  plunged  in 
the  gardeu  every  year  from  June  tUtJt  to  September  lOlh 


I 


FLOWERS   AND   HORTICULTUBH.  121 

without  any  protection.  Tbe  remainder  of  the  year,  nine 
months,  ihey  live  io  a  disUBeil  couch-house  through  which 
I  have  passed  the  flue  of  a  stove,  and  iu  the  doors  of  which 
I  have  put  ^lass.  This  is  also  the  winter  residence  of  the 
Aloes  and  Eeheverias,  of  the  Orange  and  Lemon  trees. 

I  am  unfortunate  in  my  gardens  aa  regards  Koses,  b' 
the   queen    of  Howers  ;    lor  neither  sandy  nor  caliniret 
soils  are  suited  to  their  conEtitution.     I  would  except  I 
Bank^ia,   which   flourishes  in  the  Mentono    lime    soiL 
have,  thereiort:,  io  Loth  gardens  to  rely  on  soils  artifii 
prepared  with  loam  and  manure. 

In  conclusion,  I  may  say,  that  the  horticultural  facta 
contained  in  this  chapter  corrobociite  the  researches  made 
on  the  shores  and  islands  of  the  Mediterraneitn,  and  prove 
conclusively  that  protection  from  north  winds  has  an 
e&trerae  influence  on  climate  and  ve>;etatiou,  an  influence 
which  it  requires  many  degrees  of  latitude  to  compensate. 

This  taet  apjilies  to  England  as  well  as  to  llie  suntii  of 
Europe.  In  building  our  houses  and  making  our  gardens, 
we  do  not  think  enough  of  protection  from  the  north. 
With  iu  assistance  our  climate  may  be  rendered  much  less 
trying  both  to  tbe  human  and  to  the  vegetable  consti- 
tution, as  is  proved  by  Hastings,  Ventnor,  and  Torquay, 
this  chief  merit  of  which  is  protection  from  the  north. 


CHArXEU  V. 

TUB    MEDITKHBAKEAK. 


DISTOBY — S&V10XTI0X — TinKS—nEPTII  —  SOPffnlSK  — STORMS— TltM7»- 

BLinrBi: — risa— a  xatuiuluit'»  fiuskuvk— iiLim  colovk—tiu  aft] 

It^  i'a)(iotr  {fif)  irofta  ffira  noXvifiXoioSoio  SaXdamit. 

Uomuk's  Iliad. 

"  Than)  tilirinka  no  e1>1>  in  that  tideleaa  Mtti 
Which  chnneoloM  rolla  i^tenintlj|; 
So  that  wiIdo«t  of  wuvr*.  in  their  oogriiut  mood, 
Hoarce  bretib  on  the  boondi  of  iho  Intid  for  a  roo<l ; 
And  tho  pow«rle*ii  mooa  b«kolda  tli«m  Anw, 
H«edl«n  ir  sho  come  or  go> 
Coim  on  hij^h,  in  main  or  h»y. 
On  titiiir  Gniir«o  iihp  hnth  no  xwny. 
The  roclc  unirom  ito  bunir  doth  biire. 
And  I00I18  o'er  the  mirf,  but  it  comox  not  there; 
And  the  frinM  of  the  fuatn  inajr  be  weo  below, 
On  thn  line  that  it  left  lon^i  age*  Offo; 
A  amootli  short  npuoA  of  jcUow  itiUM 
DctwM-ii  it  and  the  graener  land." 

Briton'*  Sfeje  (/OtwftUI^ 

TtiK  onliiinrj-  notion  of  the  SfwlittTrnncan  is  that  of  a 
blu«  an<l  l['aii<iMJl  ocean  lalfi^.  At  Mcnton<-,  during  tha 
winter,  this  noetical  view  of  the  great  inland  sea  id  ollva 
Btiiiiipi'ly  rnUifiud.  Suiiietim»i,  tor  weeks  toyelhor,  it  is 
constniitly  »n<;r}',  qiiit«  milir.tiig  the  iMC{Hrri«iice  of  "pious 
AitiCM"  II)  (Jaj-K  gone  hy.  l-'or  it  then  in  imIri'J  "trouliU-d 
and  nerfidious,"  ever  hreakiiig  in  ttugry  hiUnwit  on  the  > 
phi ugly  beach. 

To  those  who  are  familinrized  with   the   ever  vaiymfp 
mooiU  (if  (Hir  old  ocwin,  ever  iidvuiioiii^,  ovifr  n-trraliiii;,  this  1 
eeethiii)^,  all  but  tidelvsa  (tea,  which  day  and  night  heata 
tlio  shore  with  impotent  ragej  oever  advanoing,  never  re-  j 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


128 


tivating,  M  at  ftrat  t«dtoiu  In  the  oxtremb  Grndually, 
however,  the  eye,  the  «ar,  the  mind,  beocMne  aoMistomed  to 
it<  monotonous  anther,  and  open  to  its  real  lnl^^iliccncp, 
Then  at  Uist  wc  Tcvl  tliut  it  it  ii  glorious  privtlc;;c  Id  livo, 
as  we  do  ut  M«ntoiie,  in  front  of  the  apiuu-ently  boundless 
liquid  Mediterranean  plain — at  one  time  heaving  restlcBely,' 
at  Btiothor,  in  a  calmer  mood,  covin'ed  with  mynadii  of 
faeeta  on  whkh  the  spiirkling  aunMhinc  dunces  nnd  glittei-H, 
The  dailjr  rioing  of  the  sun,  also,  in  the  eiut,  out  of  the 
wat«n,  colouring  the  skies  and  the  waves  with  hues  which 
aurpon  tboee  ol  the  ninbow,  is  a  magnificent  tight,  that 
never  pa  I  In. 

To  a  reflective  mind,  the  Meditcrranoan  ia  the  most  In- 
tcrcalini;  of  all  aeas,  of  all  waters.  Its  shores  are  hullowed 
l>y  uxsuciation  with  the  entire  history  of  human  dvilinitioii. 
It  muy  he  wiid  to  luivc  liccn  th«  ctudlc  of  tin;  huniiiit  race 
and  intellect.  When  the  rc«t  of  the  world  was  a  blank,  a. 
mystery,  eveiy  region  of  its  circumference  waa  known  and 
inhabited  by  (he  nations  whom  we  may  consider  the  fathers 
of  history.  The  Jetv-s,  the  Phtenicians,  the  EtJ^yptiunK,  tlic 
Greeke,  the  Carthaginians,  tho  Romann,  nil  lived  on  ita 
efaotee,  oA-iwited  its  wiitcm,  ami  (U'velo|>ed  their  life  »s 
nations  withm  ^ight  of  it.  In  early,  half-fabulotis  diiys,  it 
carried  the  fnir  Helen  from  her  Grecian  home  to  Troy,  nnd 
then  brought  hvr  ill  ui«cil  hii<hiind,  and  the  kings  and 
chicltains  of  (jreece,  to  tho  wulU  of  her  doomed  anyhim. 
]julcr,  it  witnessed  the  rise  and  nro^rees  of  Chris tiunity, 
was  the  scene  of  the  voyajies,  the  shipwrecks,  and  the  trials 
of  tl»e  a|Kuitlcs,  It  carried  the  nrusadera  on  ita  liosom  to 
fight  for  the  Crotw,  and  boro  hock  the  remnant  of  their 
miirvellous  armamenta  to  their  northern  homes.  In  modern 
times,  1(10,  the  Mediterranean  has  Iwen  the  road  to  the 
£aat,  thi*  butlle-rietd  of  the  world,  the  councoting  link 
between  Kuro]>e,  Asia,  and  Africa, 

Wo  have  aulhentio  records  of  the  climate  and  inetcnr- 
olojry  of  the  Mediterranean  in  the  writin;^  of  the  anoient 
Greeks  and  Romano,  such  a»  Fausnnias  und  Vitmrius,  ex- 
tending to  ahove  two  thouKand  yi-ani.  Hoth  climate  and 
m«li-<i[olot;y  appear  to  have  been  then  what  they  arc  now, 
and  the  Meditcmnoan  was  navigated,  by  those  who  in- 


124 


7BE  MEDITERBANUAN. 


habit4!d  it*  coaai*,  pretty  niueli  u  it  is  nnvi^'atcd  in  oi: 
own  days,  in  a  cautious  land  and  sholter-loving  roanner.. 
Then,  as  now,  the  winter  was  a  stormy  time,  and  th« 
(laii<;vr  of  niivij^uting  with  eaili  a  ka  in  winch  there  in  eO 
much  uneertiiitity  as  to  the  direction  of  thu  wind,  and  such 
frequent  collisions  between  north  and  aouth,  was  eo  im- 
pressed oil  thu  minds  of  mariners,  that  all  loiiir  voyagM 
were  ubanduncii.  Murchiint  vcbkcIs  wtrc  pulled  on  »hore, 
and  remained  "  in  port,"  free  fr»m  the  d.ingers  of  the  deep, 
from  the  beninnint;  of  October  until  llie  beg^ioningof  April. 
Mnriuc  insur;iiices  were  known  at  Athens  even  in  those 
times;  but  niivi^atiun  in  the  «ix  forbidden  months  wim 
CotiKidorcd  so  dan^rous  that  no  iuiturjincea  were  taken,  and 
the  interval  was  specially  set  ap^rt  lor  deciding  liti^iation 
in  maritime  casc«,  as  a  time  when  all  the  parties  concerned 
Were  Kurc  to  be  at  home. 

MiiriiieiH  in   thoite  ditya  hu>:gcd  the  shore,  and  at  the 
slijj^htest  unfavourable  change  r»n  iuto  the  nearest  port,  or 
touk  shelter  uuilcr  the  nearest  heutdland;  and  this,  nob- 
wilbstaodin;;  all  the  modern  improvements  in  navigatioOf 
thfiy  do  even  now,     With  a  »li|;ht  bruexe,  the  sea,  near  t.hVj 
land,  lit  studded   with  veiseb,  their  white  liiteen  snilit  tx.' 
tended,   like  swallows  skimming  over  the  waters  of  t 
deep;  but  if  a  stitF  wind  and  a  heavy  sea  nee,  they  in< 
Vtantly  seek  shelter,  and   dUu|>|H-Hr.     Then,   for  dnys  to-t 
4jcttnr,  not  a  sail  u  necn,  merely  u  stray  vteamvr  neariD; 
the   laud  for  shelter  in  north  winds,   until  line  weathi 
returpio^,  a^nin  lures  thorn  out  of  their  retreats. 

The   vc^els   now   employed  in  the  coasting  trade  are 

Erobubly  much  the  yame,  in  size  and  form,  ns  thoite  usi.-<l 
y  the  old  (jreeks.  They  are,  ^neruUy  speaking,  from 
aWut  twenty  to  lil\y  tons  burden,  seldom  larger.  This  is 
no  doubt  owing  to  the  cirennutanue  that  mo»t  of  thu 
cmidler  ports  arv  inelFcctually  protected  from  the  wiiiil  and 
the  Hea,  so  that  Uiey  have  to  be  pulled  up  on  the  beach  tor 
safety.  This  is  done  by  means  of  windhisses,  and  with  thtt^J 
flseistanco  of  tlic  cntirv  maritime  population.  They  araflH 
thus  unloiided  and  loaded  on  dry  lan^I,  when  they  are  again  n 
dnt^l^ed  atwl  pushed  down  the  beach  iuto  Uie  sea,  by  main 
ibrce. 


KA  no  AWON— TIDES. 


)25 


I 


Tn  Ih*  small  portu  nil  iilonf;  the  Rivierfl  acoiw  of  tho*e 
Ainull  vessels  may  be  »eeiii  liigh  and  dry  on  tlie  beac-lt, 
waitinjf  for  carpo  or  fair  weather-  There  is  n  jelty  now 
Imililiu);  at  Mctilone  n'h!cli  alrauly  giv<j*  iionR'  vlioHrr, 
but  up  to  quite  recently  all  the  vcwels  that  came  and 
departed  n-ei«  thu«  hauled  ashore.  So  it  was  that  tlic 
Orci-kn  pulhtl  up  tbolr  vtBMrl*  on  thi>  shore*  of  Troy,  nfler 
landin);,  and  it  was  when  ihuH  drawn  up  that  they  were 
fired  Bnd  destroyed  by  their  leader, 

Allhough  poflically  callcfi  tid<'lewt.  the  eK)inn>iC  of  waivt 
that  forma  thi-  Mi-dilermtii-an  obcyx  the  Hamt'  lawn  a^  thfi 
fl^nt  ocean.  Like  the  ocean,  it  tVcIs  the  vicinity  of  our 
cold  fatellitc  thn  tnuon,  and  rtKCs  and  fulls,  at  statvd  hoiire, 
under  iU  iiitluence.  The  body  of  water,  ho»-eviT,  is  no 
much  smaller  thao  that  of  the  ocean,  notwithatandiog  the 
^reat  depth  of  tlie  Meditcrranonn,  that  the  moon's  attrjc- 
tioti  prmlurca  a  comparatively  tntling  ufTi^ct. 

The  height  of  the  tidal  wave  varies  considerably  in  dif- 
ferent re;'ioii8  of  this  great  inland  sea,  ran^H)^  from  a  few 
lines  to  a  foot  or  more.  On  one  occni"ion,  when  at  NnpW, 
at  uii  hotel  near  the  shore,  an  invalid,  I  UMcd  In  aintiKc 
myscif  by  Matching  the  sea,  as  it  broke  against  the  sea- 
wall  hcneatJ)  the  windows.  Duriiii;  a  cidm,  which  lasted 
mfire  than  a  week,  I  olwerved  that  a  rock  omtvucd  with 
aen-weed,  immediately  in  front,  waa  daily  covered  and  un- 
covered by  an  evident  tide. 

WheiMSvcr  the  wind  blows  on  or  off  the  phore,  it  isisoe 
or  lowent  the  sea-Ievi-t,  all  over  the  }k tedi terra neun,  several 
feet.  This  makes  it  nil  the  mnre  ditfieult  to  recognise  (he 
cxiKti-nee  of  the  tiilal  wavil.  At  Mentonc,  when  the  wind 
hi(H  born  blowing  st-vrral  daya  from  the  south-eaKt  or  south- 
west,  the  aea  readies  nearly  to  the  road  in  the  eastern  buy. 
When,  WD  Uie  contrary,  it  has  been  Wowin-;  sovcral  days 
from  nhorc,  not  only  the  sliiuglc,  hut  a  line  of  sandy  beach 
it  often  uncovered. 

The  style  of  navigation  adopted  by  the  Mediterranean 
saihiTN,  may  and  dtMw  r<ndi'r  llirm  expert  houlmcn,  but  it 
i«  »aid,  also,  to  make  them  less  Bt  for  lenKthcned  tiaviga- 
tioti  than  their  more  odventuroaa  northern  brethren.  Tlio 
Dtivigation  of  an  inland  «ea  cannot,  certainly,  rear  such  a 


125  TUB  MEDn-EItRAKi:A.K. 

race  of  hardy  s&ilora  sm  is  producod  l>y  the  navic^ntion 
tho  wide  Atliiiitic  uiid  Pacifli;  Occaun,  »tid  by  the  )iui'Huit  of 
th«  {rraut  tishoricA,  amidst  the  storma  and  ioebergjis  of  th« 
Northeni  seas.  No  wonder  tho  nilore  of  Columbtis,  iu> 
customed  to  Dover  loM  sight  of  Innd  for  more  thuii  a  fwr 
diiVM,  dhoidd  Imve  trembled  ivhea  they  had  been  week*  out 
at  sea,  xnd  should  hsvo  fenrvd  tbry  vivtk  suilin^  intoaal 
un  fathom  able  nbytfn,  fr»m  vfhich  tben-  wan  no  njturn. 

When  thest-a  id  hreakinjj  furiously  on  thebeach.asitofttti 
doea  in  winter,  there  is  hut  Itttlo  marine  life  visible.  The  i 
Bea-lsvcl  bcin^;  ever  tho  Hume,  owing  to  the  abHeiit'e  of  per* 
eoplible  lidoo,  there  are  no  explorins  walks  on  tlte  eanda  at  | 
low  tide,  as  on  our  cou«t«,  no  ECarcbtng  alter  soophytcs  and 
fuci.  On  culm  dnyii,  however,  a  walk  to  the  extrc-me  end 
of  the  Cup  Martin  introduces  the  amateur  natnralist  to 

I  loots  lyinif  between  ,iagRt.-d  rocUi",  where  there  n  mueb  to 
ic  (lUcrvcd.  There  are  i)«o  otlwr  points  alonf;  th<^  rnftera 
eoa»l  where  Kimilur  pooli  may  be  found,  containing  varioni 
kinds  of  sea-wecU,  sea  anemones,  hennit  crabs,  inliabitin){ 
pretty  shells  wbich  they  have  dragged  from  deeper  watoFi 
and  other  murino  trojisiiros  i  only  to  be  didcuvercd,  how- 
ever, on  days  of  perfect  culm. 

The  Mediterranean  is  a  deep  sea,  and  its  depth  is  very 
great  on  this  court  nvur  the  shore.  According  to  Lyelt, 
Sjiii!<«nre  found  u  dejitb  of  ttvo  tlioUKan<l  fc<:t<  a  few  yards 
from  the  land  at  Nice,  and  from  Toulon  to  Genoa  llie  sea 
is  everywhere  very  doep  near  the  uliortt.  This  is  always 
tlie  cane  in  the  Mediterranean,  and  eUewhere,  whenever 
mountAins  terminate  abruptly  in  or  near  the  sea,  as  along 
the  Itivicrn.  The  abysMK  of  Uie  wa  arc  probably  at  least 
ut  (loop  as  the  mountains  in  their  vicinity  ure  bit^h  j  and  a» 
ut  Mentone  the  biglier  mountain  range  reacheH  the  aoi 
line,  there  are  no  doubt  al{>inc  valley»  many  ihoiiHinil  feet 
deep  wttbin  n  very  nhoK  duitaitce  of  tiie  shore—a  grand 
idea! 

I'bua  is  explained  the  absence  of  deltas  at  the  mouths  of 
the  lurgc  torrents  which  dcaoond  from  the  mountains,  and 
fidl  into  tlw  sea  in  the  Mentonian  amphitlu'fltre.  For 
countless  ages  these  torrents  have  been  rolling;;,  during  the 
winter  rains,  maisw  ol  soil  and  boulders  i»tv  tb«  sea,  and  yefeg 


DEPTH— ^OUSDINO. 


too  impression  hex  been  produced  on  th«  outliiM  of  tint 
hays,  whi<:h  remain  porfwi.  No  doubt  these  boulders, 
whieli  Torni  the  sbiiiglv  beach,  aoon  full  into  thcsu  al)  bat 
tin  fathomable  dc|>tbs,  just  as  stones  rolled  down  u  hoasc-top 
would  fall  into  the  Fpnoc  bolow.  Tho  came  remark  appllcH, 
in  pnrt>  to  tiiv  l*iiilion  at  Nice.  Tlius,  at  tbo  bottom  of 
tUe»«  murine  valleys  are  now  furmin;;,  no  doubt,  beds  of 
olay  and  sand,  and  perhaps  of  eoii^loineratt-v  similsf  in 
charnt-tCT  to  the  on«  on  whieb  the  villagu  of  RoccabruDa  is 
perch«d. 

The  Mediterranean  may  truly  be  considered  a  deep  fcn, 
for,  in  »  };n-iit  portion  of  iti  extent,  it«  depth  varies  from 
five  to  ten  thoimnd  Teet,  or  between  one  and  two  miles — a 
fact  which  has  been  ascertained  in  Inying  the  t^le^niph 
eahleu,  which  uross  it  in  vnrioiie  diri-etionii.  Vet,  even  thi« 
depth  in  tritline;,  conijiHred  with  that  of  the  Atlantic,  be- 
tween Europe  and  Africa,  and  America.  A  depth  of  31 50 
fatbonu,  or  18,900  fevt,  bus  bn>n  reached  (CAaiitHger, 
1873),  and  it  in  presumed  that  the  depth  may  extend  to 
thirty  thousand  feet,  neurly  six  miles. 

Korinorlv  deep  sea  sonnding  was  effected  by  ineanN  of  a 
lead  or  weight  fastened  to  a  line,  and  tJirown  out  fiom  the 
ship.  By  llii»  plan,  however,  it  was  found  dilTicuIt,  if  not 
impoMiilile,  to  reach  a  depth  much  above  nix  hundred 
fulhoms,  or  between  three  and  four  thouNiiid  feet.  If  tho 
lead  was  h*iivy,  it  could  not  be  haulod  back,  and  the  line . 
broke ;  if  it  was  lit;l>t>  it  was  floated  awny  by  currents. 
The  impossibilily  ofhantiiit;  in  a  heavy  weight,  once  it  bos 
reaobed  deep  water,  will  he  easily  understood,  when  it  is 
known  that  at  a  depth  of  fourteen  tliousuud  four  hundred 
feet  tlie  pressure  of  the  wntcr  is  as  three  tons  on  every 
•qoare  tncii  of  euifaoe.  To  this  niuot  be  added  the  weight 
ol'  the  whole  liiw  used  for  deep-sea  M>un<lii)g)i,  which  woold 
itself,  at  that  deplb,  amount  to  one  ton.  The  dilTienlly 
has,  hoivcver,  been  ovcreonic  by  the  application  of  steam 
power, which  ia  now  used  iu  soundiniu;  aud  dred^iig  at  (rreat 
dcptlu.  Weights  are  used,  so  contrived,  that  on  tiiticbiiig 
thu  bottom,  tJiey  separate  from  the  line,  which  can  tJicn  be 
hauled  up.  Thanks  to  thi»  contrivance,  and  to  the  use  of 
■taUD«  the  grater  (lart  of  tJie  lledit«rraneaH  and  of  the 


128 


TUB    MEDITERRANBAy. 


Atlnnlic  lias  been  tiirvcycd.     The  Atliintio  tian  bepii  fonnrl 
to    bi«   II    (lL-e|i  vmliey,   Ijing  tetween   Kurope,  Africa,  uiid 
Amoricn,  and  dipping  deeper  Wlow  the  eca-lcvcl  than  tb«. 
hiplK'st  mouiitHia  rises  above  the  siirfnt*  vf  the  gWio. 

It  w:i.iNtii>poiifd  by  the  pioneer  of  doep-sea  dre(ii*iu^>  the 
late  Kdwaru  Forbes,  that  at  about  6U0  fathoms'  depth  all 
life  ci-nscd,  that  below  this  It-vel  all  ivas  gluom  and  darkneex, 
and  Mint  lifi;  exiiiU'd'not.  The  proyireas  nia«le  vlnce  hia 
death  in  deep-sea  dred^inf;  has  dispelled  all  such  views, 
irovin;;  lliem    to  be  nlto};«lher  errtineons.     Life  is  fouixl 

iTvwhcre,  in  the  uttcnnont  depths  of  the  ooenn,  u*  on  thu 
hi;;Ue^t  moiint.iitia.  Sir  John  ftoss,  in  181S,  dredging  in 
Bufliii's  Bay,  brought  up  sen  worms  from  lOUt)  tinthonu, 
&iid  from  SOO  fatbomv,  a  Me<]usa,  The  latter  wo*  than 
thought  to  have  beeu  entangled  in  the  line,  but  is  now 
rueo};niM<d  to  be  a  spcctcs  inhninting  ihoso  deep  waters. 

In  IMll,  Prtifetaor  l-'lcining  Jenkin,  sent  tn  rrpiiir  n 
ruptured  telei^raph  cable  betweeu  Sardinia  atid  Bona, 
brought  up  u  rr.i^-nient  of  cable  from  1£00  fathoma,  with  a 
true  coral,  a  (.'a  ry  op  hill  in,  iittach«d  to  iL  Lat«r,  Dr. 
William  Caqn-nter  and  Dr.  Wj-ville  ThomMon,  in  the  Bur- 
veying  atiipa,  LighlMng,  186S;  J'oreupine,  18(19 — 70; 
and  V&aUfngcr,  1873 — 4,  have  found  life  in  the  Atlantic 
ul,  all  but  the  deepest  deptbH  reached,  2Sau  fathoms  or 
17, DUO  feet.  At  the«e  imnifuso  deptha  it  \»  dotibtrul  if 
liglit  penetrates,  and  the  source  from  which  the  living  orga< 
nixniM  lint)  the  cl«nieiitK  of  nutritiuD  they  rei]tiire  is  still 
a  nij'Btery,  a  debated  point. 

Although  theMedilcrmncnn  is  only  separated  from  tlie 
Atlaiitie  by  the  peninsiilit  of  Spain,  the  elevated  and 
motiutninoua  cfaoraeter  of  that  eountry,  and  the  other 
conditions  I  have  elaewhere  enumerated,  prevent  a  large 
proportion  of  the  storms  that  oeeiir  in  Uie  western  Atlantic 
reaching  it.  ThuM  M.  Matti-uei  hs.t  recently  publiihcd  a 
paper  in  which  he  shovrs  that  out  of  118  storms  coming 
from  the  Atlantic  and  striking  Kngland  und  Ireland,  A,y 
only  reach i-d  Italy.  In  Octolier,  November,  and  l>eceinber 
the  progress  of  these  storms  to  Italy  is  much  more 
fri'iincnt  ihiin  »t  other  periods;  while  in  winter,  and  still 
more  in  Biimmcr,  a  grejtt  dimiuiitiou  ocoun.     Id  thu  tLrc* 


STORMS— 1 EMPERATUIIE. 


129 


months  aamed,  out  of  29  storras  S3  ranched  Ituly ;  in  April, 
M«r,  June,  July,  und  AujriiFt,  oul<  of  41  only  3  nrrivwl  nt 
Itaiy.  Hiette  fuctit  Huli^luntiatc  my  own  otworvation*  u*  to 
the  fre(|ueucy  of  aoulh- westerly  Ftorm*  in  autumti,  and 
explain  the  luiiai  fine  weather  in  this  iuland  sea  in  summer. 

Tho  Modit«rr4nv;in  inti  witrm  son.  At  nil  times  ofthc 
yeiir  it  in  fiv«  or  nix  dejFrvuK  wiirmcr  tliiui  ihv  Athinlic 
Ocean  under  tlie  ramc  Utitudd ;  und  iu  winter  it  i*  never 
ixioled  dourn  to  the  same  extent  us  the  latter  in  northern 
and  vmn  tcni|>i-rat4)  ro-;ions.  In  the  open  oceans  thure  »n, 
deep  bolowr  tli«  nurrdee,  cold  currvnt^t  I'rom  tho  north  nnd 
south  |h>1e,  which  have  been  revealed  i)y  the  d^ep-MA 
■oundin^  ol'  Lieut,  Maury  and  others.  Thus,  in  the 
Atluotte  Oc<.-un, — ;it  the  bottom  of  tho  Gulf  Stream,  a  tem- 
jieriiture  of  only  UJ"  Fab.  has  beiin  found,  whilgt  the  mirfnou 
IS  above  8f.  'rh«  Mediterranean,  a  lHn<l 'enclosed  aca, 
is  not  accessible  to  these  polar  eiirrenta,  which  la  one  of  the 
oauus  itudoubt  uf  its  exceptional  warmth.  Even  in  winter, 
I  have  never  foiiml  it  lower  than  54"  on  the  Mentone  ooost 
six  or  ten  feet  U-low  the  surface. 

Dr.  Car])e»ter  Mlalcii  that  if  wcga  deep  enough  in  the 
oeoan  we  sliall  always  find  the  temperatara  as  low  as  H"; 
tut  in  enclosed  »ea^,  such  as  the  Meditorrjncian,  Die  dci-per 
and  <^lder  water,  circiilatintr  from  the  poWn,  ennnot  eot4.r; 
llieivforc  tlie  lowcat  bottom  temperature  i*  determined  by 
the  luweet  winter  temperature  of  the  Kurfaco.  Scarcity  oF 
life  in  the  Mediterranean  he  considers  to  be  owing  to  a 
ileticieiiey  of  oxyfjvn  in  the  ivator,  duo  toit«Coml>inintf  with 
a  laryi;  (quantity  of  organic  nnitter  brought  down  l>y  the 
rivers  and  emptying  into  it.  ThuM,  wbilu  in  the  Atlantic 
we  usually  tind  iU  per  cent,  of  oxygen  and  Hi  per  cent,  of 
carhonio  acid,  in  the  bottom  waters  of  the  ?k[e<litcrnin«n 
there  is  often  only  !i  per  cent,  of  oxygen  and  over  i(.1  per 
cent,  of  carbonic  acid.  He  consilient  the  Itcd  Sea  and  its 
neitthbourhood  the  hottest  region  on  the  earth,  the  tem- 
iwraUire  of  Uio  surfiice  water  rifint;  to  80°  or  90°,  and  ibe 
bottont  tempctnturv  b(-ing  about  71°,  corn-rponding  to  the 
^rcNteot  winter  cold.  Untxide  of  this  sea,  however,  in  the 
Arabian  Otilf,  the  bottom  temperature  ia  DH'.  As  the  lowest 
Itottom  temperAtora  of  the  Ited  Sea  is  as  high  as  7 1°.  Iivin;|> 


XRO 


TOE  HEOITEnRANRAN. 


oornle  stioiild  oociir  there  at  greater  deptlis  tUn  anywher 
dsi'  in  till!  world. 

Tlivic  Kiiemii  to  have  liccii  Ulll«  iranrcliBiipr  in  tin-  U-m- 
jiernture  of  llie  Medi terra iiean  and  ol'  its  slKin.'S  witliiti  the 
memory  orm.in.  Tlic^ame  ve^i.'tati<>ii  exists  and  llourit^hce 
around  it  that  existed  undllouriFliL-d  when  tlicoarlicetrvL-nrdK 
were  j>cimod,  tlioec  of  Sncrcd  Writ  and  of  Hvincr.  Thf 
^nlogical  fcatutcs  do  not  either  nii)iear  to  have  rhiingcd 
within  that  jjenod,  except  as  regards  slight  elcvniiotis 
and  dO])r«i4iioiis  of  Komc  coiKte.  Tlmi'.  the  elimnte  has  pro- 
\mh\y  hi'fii  till!  Biiine  during  the  hi«ti)rie  jHTind.  Itha^hcen 
characterized  iii  fnriuer  historic  days,  as  now,  by  duiiahim.*, 
hy  little  ruin,  and  by  no  almospbere  which  does  not  contain 
ooe-halfofthe  moisture  of  the  Eiistii^h  at  RiospherG.  Indeed, 
it«  elima'.c  hat:  no  doubt  heon  what  it  i^  now  over  xiiiec  th« 
continents  of  Aoiu,  Africa,  and  Europe  have  asHumed  their 
present  tthape,  ever  since  the  existence  of  the  rainless  tract 
of  which  the  deserti  of  Sahara,  of  Arabia,  and  of  Cohi  are 
the  expression. 

Otvinp  to  the  paucity  of  rain  and  to  the  ftmall  number 
of  lar^  river*  ihut  empty  into  the  Mediterranean,  the 
tiipply  of  fr<-jil)  >valcr  In  that  sea  is  much  below  the  amount 
taken  up  by  evaporation.  To  meet  this  deliciency  a  wide 
stream  or  curi-enl  of  scii^water,  many  hundred  lect  deep, 
nets  in  throii<{h  the  Strait*  of  (libraltar  from  (he  Atlaiitie, 
at  a  rat«  of  from  three  to  six  miles  an  hixtr.  Tlii^  inwanl 
current  was  formerly  sii|ipoeed  to  be  owing  to  a  dilVi^renoe 
of  level ;  the  MHiferraticJin,  in  this  hypothesis,  bein-j  lower 
than  the  Atlantic.  The  rvscarches  id  Admiral  Smyth,  un<l 
of  other  observers,  have  nrvved  this  view  to  Im  lallncioue. 
The  Atlantic,  the  Mediterranean,  the  Ithick  Sea,  thsj 
Adriatic,  and  even  the  Red  Sen,  have  all  the  same  level. 

Admiral   Smyth   and  Sir  Charles  Lycll  donU  the  es-.| 
istenee  of  a  dee|>  counter-current  from  the  Metlitcrrancnt 
to  the  Atlantic  throu(:h  the  Straits  of  (iihraltar.     Lieut. 
Maury,  on  the  contrary,  considers  it«  existence  jimved  by 
reaxoiiiri^  as  well  as  by  observation.    Were  t-uch  a  countii  ~ 
current  not  to  exivt,  be  says,  the  waters  of  the  Mcditer-*^ 
ranean  would  not  only  be  sli-ilitly  valter  tbnn  those  of  the 
Atlantic,  as  they  actually  an-,  but  n  ould  become  very  much 


10. 


A 


CUBHEN-ni — FISH. 


131 


like  tliOBu  of  the  DeMi  Sua,  wliicli  haa  no  outlet,  and 
would  (lu|)u«iil  Hilt  at  the  l>i»tt.itn  from  uvfr>(utiirHliu[i,  Tliw 
19  i)Qt  till)  K«»',  whicU  (iravi^,  be  tliiuki,  tlial  ihure  wm#/  bu 
a  dwp  oouiitof  and  ouLer  currvnt  ol'  water,  ol'  a  deiiairr 
gruvity — fruin  incfLM^d  satiirntion  witli  s;ilt — thitn  liit- 
uiijH-r  and  iitward  Atlantic  riirrviit.  Sir  CltarW  Lydl 
ftdtnits  tli«  prrKL'iiL-e  ut'  »n  muler  uurri-iiL  at  limiat  in  the 
Straits,  but  thinks  that  more  rucunt  ubiorvatioDS  ebour  it 
to  he  inoruly  tid^l. 

TIm;  vswjtliunal  wiiniith  nf  ihe  M<<ditvrriineiin  rucreiwm, 
«a  we  liHVt}  K«vH,  all  inllui-iii'e  ou  tbu  cHinutt',  which  it 
nodillea  liivotinit)!^.  ll  nUo  exercWe  a  ivinurkublu  iu< 
fliwnco  oil  the  finny  trilioi  that  inlinbit  it 

As  I^eut.  Miiury  >t:it<.-c,  thv  culd  <>c-oiiti«  and  »tiu  nre 
tboae  in  whidi  tinh,  uimtuvi-r  the  ciitise,  eopv-uiully  ;;i>od 
edible  fiidi,  thrive  the  tnu^t,  and  nie  the  a)o«t  |ii-idilii:.  'I'ho 
Oixl,  ihr  mai-kirn-l.  thu  hi-rriti;;,  thi-  ii»l<-,  thi-  tialnioii,  nil 
bclvHg  ta  rHirUiurn  htitudi-K.  FiNli  nre  abundiint  unJ  ^md 
on  the  north  ww"t  of  Amrriai,  wmt  and  wiwl,  ami  im  the 
oortli  count  of  Kiiru)ii>.  'V\w  xhouU  of  hi-nini;^,  uiacki.-1'i.d, 
pilcliardK,  cud,  that  vioit  our  ee;Ǥ  (.'vltv  year,  all  coiim.'  from 
tli«  nonh,  and  rt^turo  to  it.  Ik-twwii  tliu  (inK  SMxam,  an 
it  ajtcviKlf  the  Athnliv  fnitn  tliu  (julf  ul'  Flxridii,  uu<l  the 
count  of  the  l.'iiilL'd  St^t4.'a,  t-liere  in  a  hand  or  Wbdi;^  of 
water,  desctfndin;;  from  thu  north,  whieh  is  many  di-',;rees 
cttldur  than  thu  asccitdin}'  fitters  ol  thir  Gtdf  Sli-tuim  itMrlC. 
Thin  band  o)  cold  «»t>-r  i*  lull  of  good  itlihle  lish,  whcrvuK 
the  w»rrn<T  vvatem  of  ihu  (iulf  Stream  cunlnin  cimiiiiira- 
lively  lew  Gnh,  and  those  not  good.  In  the  Itupica,  and  in 
wanner  bum  also,  thu  lixh  uri.-  utrilin'r  so  ^od  not  ^o  mime- 
roiii>j  allhoiiffh  niori-  brilliant  und  fuulavUe  in  colour  and 
ehajw.  'Hi«  Mvditi'iTuiiean  i»  »o  exeejitiou  to  thia  ruk-,  as 
1  can  testify  from  considerable  expeiiencc.  The  fisli  it 
Goiit^ns  are,  iu  ){encial,  iiL-ithor  (fuuil  nor  abiindaiit,  uhiuh 
occountH  (or  the  Homan  Cnlhi>!ic  inhabit. mt^  i-f  its  ubii-e* 
cuDDUniin^  fo  Wj^eji  iju:tntily  uf  tho  {■[udiii.-l  of  thu  hirrilij;: 
and  cifd  hsheries  of  Northern  Kuroiie. 

At  Mentoiie  Iho  griiat  depth  ol  the  hm  at  a  uliort  dis- 
tiance  from  tlie  dhorv  is  no  doubt  nn  additional  drutvback, 
as  vei'v  dei-p  waters  are  neither  lavourabie  to  the  breeding;  of 


132 


THE  UEltlTBKHANEAN. 


Bull,  nnr  arc  they  ro™!  fi-hinir-sjrotimis.  Otir  ImwI  fieliin^- 
groiiiidii  UK  nil  mIukiI  Mini)l<aiiks,  itx,  lor  inaUiiioe,  tliu  Uuggt'r 
Hank,  ami  that  of  NewIuiiudUDd. 

Ou  »  Bne  day,  when  th«  wa  is  calm,  the  Mentone  fieher- 
Biro  *n  on  tlw  iklert  betimor,  anil  ikv  bay  is  Rtnddcd  willi 
ImmIs.  a  very  olooc-ntevlMHl  bag  nvt  u  Ihrovrn  uut  nod 
baoyod,  and  ihta  dni^^<xl  in  sfiore  by  loni;  ropes,  with 
grvat  excitement  on  the  piirt  of  those  eii;^i;;i'd.  Ther«  are 
odcii  ten  or  twelve  tnon,  women,  mid  children  to  (yioh  tii-l. 
^Vhvn  nt  laft,  however,  it  i*  drawu  in,  iiud  ils  vontciiti*  ure 
scattered  oti  tli«  beiu;)i,  these  etfurta  remiU  the  Table  of  the 
inminlaiii  in  labour,  llicre  is  seldom  anylhin);  in  the  bo; 
btit  H  lew  pounds'  wvi^ht  of  a  innidl  tr»nw]Min.*nt  whitobtiit 
kind  offixh,  u  few  giirdimw  and  iiniall  red  inulK'tH,  Nuinr  dimi- 
nutive sword -I'lKh,  luid  two  or  three  crabs  the  size  of  a  five- 
Btiillin<;  piece,  that  have  not  bevn  able  to  i^l  out  of  the  way. 

^Yh(■^  the  Qi'ts  arc  drnwn,  and  tbi-ir  livi»<;  coiiteiits  are 
strewn  on  the  shore,  the  joniif^,  and  I  n)»y  nty  not  dd- 
f^iwntly  tin;  old,  are  nvixed  with  an  ardent  dexiie  lo  f»V« 
some  of  the  stmn'^Iing  inmates  of  the  deep,  or  in  other 
words,  to  estab1ii<h  an  aijuarium.  Basins,  tubs,  all  kinds  of 
ntunnls  arc  i-nlistcd  in  their  bvhidf,  b:it  I  am  sorry  to  ndd 
with  but  very  Utile  mioc>.-9U!.  The  xmall  Hat  UkIi,  winitnes, 
Bword-lish,  the  shrinim,  after  darting  about  furiously  for 
some  hours,  vainly  cndeavotirinj;  to  escape  from  their  prison, 
turn  on  their  tide  and  die.  They  ri-ally  appear  lo  die  from 
nervous  exhaustion,  for  it  cannot  b<;  for  want  of  iieratvd 
water,  as  the  same  result  is  obscived  when  either  a  lar|^  or 
small  ve«svl  is  nsed.  I  find  that  Mr.  Philip  Go«^sc,  tlie 
ohanniiig  naturaliiit,  aUo  talcM  this  view  of  the  early  dealh 
of  marine  animals  thus  auddenly  conlim-d.  He  xtrikingly 
rentiii'kB,  "  It  is  as  if  a  ninu,  shut  up  )>eiieath  the  duuie  of 
St.  I'aulV,  khoitld  W  found  dead  by  dayliglit  for  want  of 
air  to  bi-eiithe.  Are  the  gilU  of  an  onneluid  or  a  niolUisu 
more  exacting  than  the  lungs  of  a  man?" 

The  umall-meehed  nets  must  be  ver)-  destructive  to  you 
£tii,  and  ub  they  am  everywhere  used  on  the  Medilerrane 
""wt,  thi>y  must  tend  to  render   its  wat«r«  even   more  un-' 
etive  than  Nature  intended.     The  tishrriiivn  on  tliir>c 
■  maintain,  lu  did  our  own  fishermen  with  refereiico 


FISB^  W  lUTEBA  IT. 


133- 


to  whit«bait,  that  the  umall  tnin«pBR-Qt  fiith  llie^  raitcli  in 
eticli  niimWrH  arv  ■  tMiparate  *pccit«  that  n<!ver  (;i'ow  any 
luFj^r,  niid  which  it  ia,  oonaequently,  legitim»te  to  destroy 
for  food.  To  settle  tliis  qutntion,  I  brought  some  homu, 
premrrvcd  in  epirJU  of  winu,  *nd  cubinitlcd  thcin  to  the 
woll-known  ii;iilhyii!i)|riHt,  Ur.  A.  Giinther,  of  the  Itritieh 
MtHHium.  Alter  cartl'ul  examination.  Dr.  Gualher  wroto 
Bie  as  follows: — "There  cun  ho  no  doubt  thiit  tiio  xpet^imL'ntt 

J'on  hava  submitted  to  me  for  cxuminiilion  are  the  young 
ry  of  some  specie))  of  Ciupra,  nud  ttom  the  position  of  the 
vert«bnil  tins,  and  the  number  of  vertchrve,  1  believe  tliem 
to  be  the  young  of  Cinpea  Sprattun,  or  a  epociufi  closely  ullied 
to  it."  Dr.  OUnthur  hat  ratisfiictorily  esUibli^ihed  that  our 
whit«lwit  iirv  the  youny;  fry  of  the  herring,  tto  that  botli  on 
our  shoreH  and  un  the  Alediterranean  the  wholesale  destrnu- 
tion  of  tiiese  sinitll  lish  is  ccjually  unju^^liliablu. 

The  French  Uoveniment,  which  hiu  puid  great  attention, 
during  the  lust  few  yenni,  to  piseionlture,  to  the  reptenish- 
meot  both  of  iU  salt  and  freih  vrjler«  with  li.ih,  has  become 
alive  lo  this  lact.  A  eommiMiou  has  reoently  been  ii|»* 
pointvd  to  inquirv  into  the  condition  of  the  ti»heri<a  on  the 
northern  shon-  of  the  Alediturrancan,  tvil.h  a  view  to  their 
improvomunt ;  and  the  probable  reiiult  of  its  Ubotirs  will  be 
a  pruliibilton  of  the  use  of  thvse  sm.ill-mi^lied  nct«— ^  verj 
oescMary  8t«p.  Tluiy  nnquestionably  tend  to  dolroy  thu 
fishetiM  wlierevcr  us«d,  by  uuuihiUling  the  small  fry  on 
the  shallows.  Unlew  some  such  nveiuure  is  adopted,  lish 
must  all  but  disappear  from  tiiis  part  of  th«  Mcditurruneun 
6hon«,  stimulatud  us  their  destruttiou  ix  by  the  pTvnnce  of 
wealthy  fit h-tta ling  nlr.ingeri^  A  few  ymra  ii;;o  the  email 
fry,  like  ivhit4:batl,  were)  M>ld  at  Mentotie  for  four  town 
(twoiwncv)  a  pound ;  the  larger  for  eight  sous.  Now  the 
small  l<it<.')i  twenty,  and  the  larger  thirty. 

Wherever  1  have  l>oi!n,  in  Comiua,  in  Italy,  in  Sicily,  I 
have  always  found  the  loiial  fuhennen,  and  many  better 
inronn«d  [ki!r»4>ni4,  pertinai: loudly  maintain  that  the>U  xuialt 
Hsh  are  not  the  s[iawn  of  larger  fi^l).  but  a  peculiar  speeie* 
that  always  remains  small,  and  ihit  were  thexe  nets  not 
allowed  a  volutliln  kind  of  fooil  would  be  lust  to  all  da^sw 
vt  aociuty.     Wti  have  aeen  that  suoh  ia  not  thu  caei;,  and  it 


134 


TIIK    MEDITKKItANKAN. 


m  I'l  lie  hopL-tl  that  tli«ir  diittruoLiciii  will  Im^  l^uJiy  pnt-j 
vuntt^d. 

Tlic  gentle  att  is  etiltivated  at  Muntone  by  many  zealoasl 
native  pi)icatorL-iR§,  who  miiy  be  econ  dny  alWr  tiny  fubinff'! 
frmn  llic  piiiaiu-L  of  the  c[iiay  lit  iho  cnlmncc  (if  ihc  lourn, 
iVnni  riH'lcM  lyiti^;  in  ihv  kca,  or  Ifuiii  tlii>  »hciru.  Some  of 
the  vinitoro  nlso,  iT1^pirell  by  Ihi'lr  example,  (locasioiially 
enter  the  lista.  Theii-  patience  and  skill,  however,  meet 
with  but  SI  poor  reward,  as  mit;bt  be  anticiput<-d  rram  what 
has  bi't-n  ctnlod.  Tlieir  piinrijial  recompense  appear*  (o  bo 
tlie  luxy  enjoyment  of  the  hnrmonioH  ol  nutiiru  co  dear  to 
all  wlio  love  "the  eonteinplalivo  man's  recreation."  Thai^ 
melody  of  the-  waved  brejkin^  at  our  IV-ct,  the  siir^inf;  of] 
tltc  blue  waters  over  llie  nc^aviucd  covering  lite  Hulxiiurinc 
rocke,  the  vuiiud  buea  that  llie  fuci  n»»uuie,  as  tbey  an 
alt«rnatfly  ex|>uiidc(l,  biioyed  up  by  the  coming  wave,  and 
then  lell  bigb  and  dry  »»  it  reliejte,  the  eifecle  of  the  crer- 
varj  inff  cloml,  ehndow,  and  Ktiiiii^ht  on  the  sra,  tliu  roelca, 
the  inoiintiiinH,  and  thi;  hori/.nn,  arc.  uover  Ix-tter  olHicrvcd, 
or  more  lh'>r<>ii<;lily  tipjirc-eialed,  Ihun  by  llie  lUiHtieccittiful 
angler.  Very  liUle  piaestorinl  encccea  sutifefica  the  true 
lover  of  nature,  and  eiich  nearly  nil  enlhiititii^tic  pisca- 
torians  lire.  This  love  of  niitiirc  ib,  I  .believe,  the  koy  to 
their  od-ubtiM-d  pojtliine.  In  the  educated  it  is  fell  am) 
analysed,  in  the  uneducated  it  exists  as  an  instinct,  a 
F^ensution,  but  is  nr>t  analysed, 

t'uUlc-fiKli  arc  abundant  in  thftfC  wateni,  and  arc  «atvn 
by  the  iiihal.itantM  dm  a  dt-liuacy.  They  are  ocvusinnally 
founil  of  eiiornioiis  sixe.  1  bavo  »een  a  monster,  at  least 
BIX  feet  in  k'n;*th,  with  villniiousdookin^  IcDtaeula  several 
feet  lonar-  Such  anlagouisl"  would  lii;  very  loriiiidablo 
even  to  u  Ktrong  Kwimmer,  if  lliey  attacked  bim.  Tbey 
could  e:i!>ily  Burrunml  him  with  their  suclctrs,  and  perhaps 
]iiill  him  under  wulc)';  but  I  have  not  hcjiixl  ol  any  biicIi 
iicf.'idcnt.  MunetroUM  cuttlc-li>b,  wilb  iibrllit  twelve  feet 
in  circumferance,  churacterizcd  the  warm  bean  »f  the  chalk 
period  and  i>(  the  epoch  in  which  the  nummulilcs  of  the 
St.  Loui4  rocks  uicisled.  Kveu  now,  in  tropical  sens,  there 
nre  cuttlr-  lish  of  viiormctw  nixo.  Well  authenticnled  talca 
of  Icniacula  an  thick  a»  a  inaii'*  arm,  thrown  by 


CUTTLE- PI3U — DEVIL  FISH. 


135 


cutUi'-risU  like  those  of  yore  av«r  (He  aides  of  a  boat  in  thMu 
rogioiui,  iuhI  (Irnj^in;;  seamen  ovcrlMBri],  or  upeettini;  liirf^ 
bonb.  TIk'hc  "slrnntfc  lisli"  Imve  ltm|»  iv^o  die"!  out  in 
llie  Meilitei-ranraii,  liiit  {irulubly  tliow!  I  have  Been  an 
(h«ii'  lineal  biit  ile^etiernW  ile^oendant^.  The  Einall  anil 
twiulifiil  nniililiis  is  still  alivi-,  altboii^h  it,  loo,  ltvi.>d  in 
tlii."e  n-miitt;  days  uloni;  wiOi  iu  nwCiil  i'0>n|Kini<>n. 

The  fiHliiii^  fur  cuttle-Hsh  in  one  «i'  the  lealurcs  ol'  these 
bhores.  The  bout  is  ruwed  gently  aloti;;  the  shallow  parta 
ul'  the  buy,  H-h«re  tin?  rocUs  aie  cnvered  with  seaweed.  In 
the  prow  sits  the  lishennan,  holdiiii;  ti  lon^  tilick,  to  whioli 
a  lio<l  a  piece  «f  mvul  ilc  luit,  [nrltidly  covt.-retl  tvith  a  few 
i;reeo  twi^a,  ThU  perch  U  poked  iiniong  the  seaweed, 
tinder  the  rueke  and  stoDes,  in  likely  places.  If  the  ciiltle- 
ti>h  t«  tlii-ru  hv  inMlic*  a  e)i)lc-h  at  the  hint,  nnd  uliii^  to  it 
with  aueh  vxtreniv  tvnaeity  llint  he  Lt  eiisily  hiiuled  into  the 
Ijoat.  At  niu;ht  tibhin^f  is  olten  carried  uii  by  means  of  a 
lira  lighted  in  a  kind  of  metal  basket  suspended  over  the 
prow  of  the  boat.  The  tishermao  wsea  a  two  or  threo 
pronged  luocc.  Ho  leans  over  tliu  Me  of  the  l)oat  and  ex- 
plon-H  the  bottom  of  the  *cn,  t>y  the  glare  of  the  tire,  as  the 
iioat  ^Itdfs  gently  alon^.  If  a  fish  b  seen  many  feet 
under  the  water  the  trident  ia  thrown  with  nil  but  unerring 
uccuntey,  and  the  fish  is  hrotii^ht  tip  wriggling  un  iU  teclh. 
This  night-lubing  has  a  picturesque  ftflect  iu>  seen  Trout  the 
shore.     It  U  ulsu  praetised  on  tbe  Elalian  bkes. 

There  is  an  interesting  fact  connected  with  the  Modi' 
tArraneun  that  is  but  little  known,  even  by  the  scienliite 
world.  Thix  sea  n  the  favoiiriUi  hiibitalioti,  tho  ligme,  of 
one  of  the  bruent  and  most  sin^ubr  fi»h  that  inhabit  the 
wilderness  of  waters,  the  devil.6hh.  The  deviUlish  is  a 
■■[icciva  of  mut»^lroits  hideous  my  or  Hoiitider,  Hat,  brood,  of 
I'tiormdUK  di  men  stout:,  and  of  extraordinary  niuneiilar  power, 
with  a  h»g«  mouth  anil  slomaoh,  all  one,  in  the  front  of  its 
mitsbawii  head.  It  inhabits  the  tropica)  seas,  the  broad 
Allanlic,  IIS  well  as  the  ^Icditurrnne.tn,  and  is  everywhere 
an  object  of  euriosity  and  awe,  when  *cen  or  nii'tght, 
which  it  very  rarely  is.  The  .A.frican  traveller,  Le  Vailtant, 
caught  one  twenty-live  feet  long  in  the  body,  and  thirty- 
feet  wide   in  the  tins,  on  one  of  hie  journeys  to  Africsa, 


136 


THE   WEDITKBKANBAX. 


Oilier  travellers  Iiuri;  hvkr  tticin  tloim(k-rtn|^  on  tbe  surfuce  ' 
or  the  sen,  apiiaroiitly  m  br^e  aa  tlio  veusel  they  w«ro  in, 
Tui'o  wer«  caufjlit  at  Villelninthc,  nciir  Niw,  in  1H07,  in 
one  of  tW  tunny  acXt,  aiiJ  liavc  been  minwU-ly  dt^iwriljei] 
by  Rimto,  the  l(.'«nied  Nioe  iiatiinilu>t,  under  Iho  name  of 
"  CephahipKra  Massen*."  The  one  first  vad;;!)!,  a  female, 
W«i){he(l  iiiS  patiodij ;  it  monned  pitcoii§ly.  The  malo  nrtu 
t«-n  for  two  dsys  to  hover  mnnd  the  nets  whvre  nhe  wan 
taken,  Miarcliiii)*  fur  it«  mate,  ■iid  then  was  l:iken  in  tiio 
Bame  net !  The  |Kior  loving  deriUfiah  were  thus  united  iit 
death.     The  male  was  smaller,  weighing  bSj  pounds  only. 


TiiK  RKni^riau. 


Th«  ^lediterrnncnn  li^hormen  are  ac(|Hiiint«d  with  the 
deril-Rsh  tradilionolly,  ciilhuff  it  raixti.  Tlicy  lH-liev«  that 
ilit  anpearunuc  in  an  uinvn,  and  purteudx  disuxter.  A  xniuU 
apecieti  i*  not  unoommou  in  the  West  Indifs,  and  U  aiim«- 
timee  pursued,  hut  rarely  taken,  in  Kinjrstou  harhour, 
Jamnivu,  iiccurdint;  to  the  lion.  It.  Hill,  who  hiw  publishud 
a  very  int«r^tin^  account  of  this  eiirioiui  fitih  {ltile{Uehal 
Oifterrer,  Octohcr,  IStiJ),  The  drawing  given  is  copied 
IVoni  thi«  article.  \Vhcn  ouu  of  these  lisli  is  obscrvttl 
lluatiug  on  the  water,  the  modv  af  attack  is  to  haipooD  it. 
The  monster  immediately  strikes  out  fur  the  ncti,  with 
amazing  VL-Im-ity  and  power,  towing  its  enemy  alon^  with 
It.  Other  hoa'K  attach  thcmsolvro  to  the  first,  and  they 
are  itll  toived  out,  generally  fur  several  nul<«,  het'ore  it  again 
rises  Indeed,  tliey  are  ffeqnently  ohligcd  to  abandon  tlte 
chnsfl  altogether. 

OHcn,  uhi'n,  «tee]>ed  in  the  soiithcrn  winter  sunshine, 
I  lie  in  my  favonnte  leii^iirv  hiiuntH,  among  the  St.  Louia 
"  eks,  i;ar.ing  at  the   Medilvrruncan,  in  one  of  it*  culm, 


^ 


Tire  TUNNY. 


187 


pincid  inon>ont8, 1  tbiiik  of  these  monstotv  nnil  repeat  to 
u^i^i'lf  tlie  luinitoniuiw  v«:i«m  of  Mn.  ilcniituK  : 

"  WlMt  ludml  tlioii  in  thy  in^gim-cavm  and  oclln. 
"niou  cvar-«Qundiag  itnd  mTmtcriou*  mhl" 

Perhaps  at  Hint  very  moment  somo  of  tliwe  monstroos 
■ntcdilitvinn  tUti  un;  dUportiDi;  tlittmiu^lvcH  in  the  duepi 
wattfK  ut  my  feet ;  fur  it  i«  not  id  th«  very  <le<'piMt  n-gion« 
tbat  ev«n  tt>«  Ur^eftt  linh  um  and  da  live,  lu  thi!  greiit 
dt-'pthe  of  tlio  Bca,  bo  marvellously  reiiieiied  of  liite,  there 
16  lilllv  if  ttny  li^lit,  mid  only  tbfi  mo«t  rudimuniMry  kind 
»f  lit'o.  'Vlw  wound  ol\en  brin^  up  loicroctvopio  xhelU  un- 
diiiini^t^cd  in  their  d«lioaite  atrueture  by  friction.  Ttiey  Imve 
fnllon  Iberc  ihruu^h  the  water,  nnd  there  tbey  remiiia 
mat4onlcM.  The  de^d  Kiilor,  who  w  thioivn  over  the  «ido 
of  UlC  VCMtil,  will)  a  {uinnon-itbol  altuolicd  tii  bin  fivt, 
deaoenda  to  these  deptlis,  thtiri->  proluhly  to  remain,  stiinilin^ 
eroot,  preoorvvd  by  the  pressure  of  the  water,  until  the  Day 
of  Judgment. 

A*  Njirini;  udvitnovs  wmc  of  the  fwih,  nhtch  tbvu  descend 
in  Huch  enormoui  nboab  front  the  XnrtHirni  n^i*  into  tl)« 
Atlantic,  liiid  tbt^ir  way  inlu  the  MedilerniniMn,  thrim^h 
thit  8truit«  ol'  OitM-ultar,  and  iire  very  welcome,  'l^ius, 
rory  tar);e  maekervl  uad  wbitinj;  ktv  caught  in  great 
nnrnWrM,  a»d  a  large  and  much  valued  lixh,  the  tunny, 
makiRt  its  ap|)ear«i»;i*. 

"  The  tunny  or  lAyaniu  is  a  fish  which  kelmifpi  to  llio 
geniiK  Riavkrml,  tcomUr,  which  it  ra»eniblcs  in  form.  It 
groiVM  to  more  than  aeven  lut-t  in  lcn>;th,  nnd  often  wutgha 
as  much  as  four  hundred  weigtit." 

At\er  pusung  the  i^traits  in  dense  masses,  the  tnnity 
skirts  IIm9  coaoia  of  Spain,  France,  and  Italy,  to  spitwii  in 
the  liliu-k  8cu.  It  visits  the  Mnallent  Uiys  unu  vovox, 
which  rvnders  its  capture  fessible^indeid,  easy.  Large 
and  ftron;;  nets  are  fastened  by  cables  and  anchors,  ut 
the  eiitrauov  of  the  buy  where  they  ara  cxpec-ted,  and  a 
sentinel  io  [iniited  (rn  some  emini'm-c  to  watch  Jor  their 
uilvenU  When  ih'-y  are  seen  appruneiiing  along  the  omHt, 
the  [iabvrmeu   get  ready,  and  as  eooo  as  the  ftsh    have 


1.18 


TilR    MGDITEItrLVNEAX. 


eiiterwl,  Uiey  cKme  the  nrl«  nroiimi  or  iK^hind  iJiPin.     Tlie 
pcMir  (i*li  are  lli^n  Mlatii^liU-nsI  nitli  laiit-c  anil  Unil'p,  llto 
twa  ln'iiiii  rtiltlpned  witli  tlicir  blood.     As  "c  Imvc  otntcO, 
lliL-ir  (loll,  tiltlioii^l)  nut  very  tlcliciite,  u  etill  inui:li  iijiprc-  . 
ciuted  Uy  nouttu-riu-rF. 

The  inniiy  roiu-li  Afeiilone  in  eaHy  a[)riiig,  and  abonbJ 
llic  tniiliDi?  ol'  April  imiy  bo  seen  in  tbi>  eastern  bay,  otfA 
('ii]>  Miirliii,  (he  prrpiral inns  Iji-tiiij  nind«  lor  their  iidv«nC( 
Tliese  pre)iuriitiiiiiK  am  on  riiUicr  u  umitll  scitle,  nnd  cnnsisft 
merely  of  tliree  «r  four  b<tats,  u  loinj  net  in  ibe  wati-r,  and 
t)ie  locik-ont,  peMied  on  u  liind  of  plittlurm  mised  Mom* 
thirty  feel  hiftU  on  ttie  sliore. 

In  some  )>artii  of  tho  coiint  of  Ilttly,  Sardinia,  and  Sioil) 
Inr^^e  ncis,  called  madiii^uea,  half  a  niil«  or  a  mile  lon-.f,  i 
used  in  lisbint;  for  the  tnnny,    Tliesc  nets,  which  are  iltvide<tl 
into  obnnibi-rfl  by  cross  nd^,  iirc  sunk  in  det'ii  water,  i»1il 
some  distance  fn>ni  the  phore.     The  tunnies,  which  follow 
thooout  in  a  Nhonl,  pa«i  bctw<-on  it  and  the  mt,  and  on 
roaehin^  the  extremity  of  tlie  lutter  are  arrested  iu  their 
prognciw  by  a  cr<>s§  net.     They  then  tnrn,  anil  am  driveo 
into  the  eliamlwm  of  tlie  large  m-t  by  the  linhennen,  where 
Ihey  are  ilenlmyeil,  ait  described,  by  htindreds,  in  favonmbls  , 
years.     The  sport  is  stated  to  he  very  exciting ;  but.  un- 
forlunately,  it  t.ilces  phiee  in  tin;  month  of  May  or  vT\y  lit 
Jtini-',  tvheii  lii-altli  ti>urixt^  have  alreatly  taken  tUghi  to  th«  < 
north. 

Tlic  tnnny  is  not  only  allied  to  the  mackerel,  but  aUo  to' 
the  Iiiinito.  a  henutil'ul  Intpienl  tUh  of  a  lovely  blue  colour. 
The. bunilo,  allhou;;li  a  tropical  lUh,  is  represttnled  in  th« 
Medilcrrancan  by  a  distinct  and  e(|(ially  bcautiftd  species, 
the   p/i-itaff*  Sitrtiii,  the  len<;th  of  which  is  from  twenty  lo'j 
thirty  ineheit. 

Whab-s  not  uii frequently  puHit  into  the  Medilermneaa] 
through  the  Strait-^  of  Uibrallur,  for  a  stati-ly  promenade 
or  "swim."  On  one  of  my  excursions  to  Corsica  wo  met 
one  when  out  of  night  of  land.  The  iet«omer  pnMcd  very 
near  him,  and  he  indiil)^d  \t*  with  a  apkndid  spout.  The 
French  sailors  chilled  the  whaln  "  uu  euufHeur"  [a  blower},|j 
nud  be  well  deserved  tlio  term. 

I'vriKiiscs  nrv  numeroim,  and  as  amu«injr  iu  their  {gambols. 


A   NATURALISTS   fRKHEKVK. 


i;j£» 


. 


1cii)M(,  ami  (inwitlily  irjr.ition«,  ns  in  the  n^irttiern  sets. 
'ilify  cMjnslanlly  come  in  ftliore.  On  une  «i.'i'4"i<>n  we  met 
with  n  xlioal  out  at  Ha,  oridcnlly  on  frolic  iiiU-iit ;  tlu'y 
wcr<'  a|>|iiir(!iilly  |iuniuin({  nivli  ntlifr,  liki;  ImyK  iit  l«>ii|i-i(Oi^. 
IU';;ardl>«!t  of  our  pnwence,  tlioy  ki-pt  springiin;  out  of  the 
H'litcr,  «'ith  n  kind  of  llyiii|{  lenp.  Soniclitiifs  linlf-a-duzitn 
woqIJ  bo  in  the  nir  nt  n  tim<-,  all  in  «  lino.  Thi-y  pushed 
our  \irtw»,  iiiid  thi-n  wvre  foon  out  of  )ii[;lit,  lU  our  countea 
divri^^l. 

If,  on  B  calm  fine  day,  a  liei^jht  of  Bome  hiitifired  feet  or 
more  is  att;itni-d  iibove  ihf  elimc,  and  the  siirluc-e  of  tlie  >'l-:i 
is  carvfiilly  rsnrtiinisl,  it  will  bi;  hkvix  to  piesont  riblioni',  an 
it  wcTi',  iif  water  of  ditfeient  uoloiiin,  liylilcr  ;ind  darker. 
Tbi-se  ribbons  describe  all  kinds  of  irre:;alar  liiiuid  imtlia 
nnj  simuieitici  in  the  buy,  and  for  n  mile  or  tn-o  from  ihu 
•hotv.  They  are  vtirytnt;  murine  riirn-iil*,  tb<t  cfliixc  of 
wbiob  it  is  difliciilt  t/>  determine.  Inoiiimlilii-a  of  Mxrfaec 
at  the  bottom,  dif)ereucc-i>  of  temperature,  winds,  all,  no 
donLit,  <v)ntribi]t«  to  prodtice  tliein.  Tbey  illustrate  on  the 
Kdrriicv  cf  II  cslm  •w*  tbu  deeper  anJ  more  pmverrul  corn^nls 
wliiuli  play  »»  irnj><>rtnut  u  p.irl  in  th«  biitory  of  the  ^rcat 
ot-oiins, 

TliMe  currents  are  tlio  preserve,  the  delight  of  the  marinu 
naturali't,  a  fni^  but  little  known.  I  wax  introduce^]  tu 
tbein  by  Profeaaor  l';i;rt!riBl«elier,  of  Heidelberg,  a  well- 
known  and  entbii^iitHlic  naturalist,  who  eame  to  Meutone 
two  sprints  pur|>'w^^ly  to  isittily  iu  murine  zoology.  It 
■fwint  ibut  the  eurrentj)  draw  into  tlieir  eoiirfc  all  tbe 
vv;^table  or  animal  detritna  tl<>atiiif{:  al  the  Hurfacu  of  Ihe 
Mi'a  where  they  pass.  The  pres«n<«  of  ihese  "elements  of 
mitt-ition"  attracts  nnimalvubo  iiml  the  smaller  inhabitanttt 
of  the  direj).  Tboy,  in  turn,  attract  the  lar^rr  molhiMtw,  and 
thus  these  current!!  become  a  kind  of  uaiuialialii'  cover, 
ivhcre  the  inhabitants  of  marine  depths  in.icensible  to 
dred^in^  are  funuil  in  abiiniLince. 

The  bcttt  lime  for  this  kind  uf  fiitliin^  is  early  in  the 
mornin|>;,  ut  sunrise.  The  bunt  should  start  from  the  shoiv 
ju»t  ns  tho  sun  uppears  on  the  ea»t«rn  horizon,  so  that  the 
current  or  liifhini;  ground,  previously  delvrmineil  un,  is 
gained  m  the  sun's  raya  illuminate  the  Ueplhs  of  tho  sut — 


140 


THE  MEUITERRANEAN. 


"  Ami  now  th«  jinrplc  clouds 
RiM  }ikt  a  noDuUin ;  now  thv  nan  look*  tint, 
PiUin^,  o'erllowiiiu  with  bis  Klorioui  ti^lit 
Tlio  noble  &mphit£eatr«  of  IiuIh." — lUratRS. 

All  aoiinated  nntuio  becomes  cntlacd  with  trvsh  life,  ■: 
nnivm'nl  iWire  f'vr  fuvJ  i*  fvlt,  antl  the  briny  pathjt  ttn 
soon  orowdL-d  with  voracious  cuKtumera. 

llie  t'lHliiiig  is  carrit^  on  hy  means  of  two  nrts,  liko 
bkitlerfly  avis,  only  ]uri;(>r,  fastened  to  ettiut  ftii-ke.  One  is 
of  g«od  lizo  «nd  rtoiil  t«xturi>,  tiic  uthcr  Kmallvr,  iind  of 
more  delicate  material.  Tliey  arc  held  out,  four-fillhs 
immersed  in  the  water,  from  the  side  of  the  bout,  the 
concavity  turned  in  the  direction  the  boat  is  f^in;*,  and  of 
■.'oumv  cutch  i-vorylhili^  ill  their  way.  There  ■hoiihl  aW  be 
suverul  juni  ol'Dea-water  in  the  boat,  ready  for  uhc.  Every 
now  Bud  then  the  smaller  and  more  delicate  net  should  bs' 
takin  in,  the  wtilcr  nllowcd  to  eecapo  from  the  ba(;  end, 
and  then  tlu- hn^;  it«cll  turned  in^ideout  intooneof  tlivglun 
jiiri  of  niKi-water.  AlthungJi  the  eye  may  detect  »othi»g 
on  Inokiiig  at  the  water  from  above,  if  the  jnr  ia  lil^d  ap 
and  the  ohsencr  looks  "tbrouBh"  it,  he  will  Roner^lly 
ece,  liy  triuiBinilted  ti^ht,  many  very  Kingulnr  tunn«  of 
marine  life,  whieh  tlie  net  has  eau[;ht  di9r|)i)rtin^  on  the 
surfaee  of  the  sea,  1ml  whieh  ore  quite  iiivwihle  to  the  eye 
from  aljove.  The  snme  plan  may  be  followed  with  the 
larger  net,  but  it  is  more  eKpeeiully  inteiidisl  to  e-jteh  tit* 
larger  molluscs  and  ziio]>liyte»,  whieh  the  eye  dixliiivtly 
peroeives  swimmintf  or  floating  in  the  etirrent,  1  thuf 
became  arijuainU'd,  lliankti  to  the  Professor,  with  many 
very  ninf^iliir  and  U'litititiil  fomiif  of  life,  and  was  highly 
delighted  with  this  new  mode  of  fi*luii{f.  To  him  1  ewe  the 
following  notes  of  what  we  fonnd  : — 
I  Id  these  cunvnts  will  be  found  a  great  number  of  email 

l^_  cruotnecnnfi  called  Co|)vpode«,  of  a  white,  onuige,  or  rod 
^B  colour,  whieh  seem  to  rent  on  tlieir  antennie;  tSai>hirine«, 
1^^  which,  rising  and  fulliuj,;,  look  like  a  precious  etoiie  or  n 
I  drop  ot  dew,  and  fpnrkle  llkcatlower;  marvellous  larvie, 

^K  Asteria*  and  IJntins,  whieh,  tvilh  the  fri«kiness  of  youth, 
^H  are  taking  an  excursion  in  deeii  watent,  whiUt  the  father 
^H        and  mother  are  oonoealed  amongst  the  rvuUa  in  quim  bays 


4 


A    NATVRALISTS  PBESERVE. 


141 


Bodtularin,  tt«latinous  balU  Ulc«  chains  of  froj^a  '^SIP', 
piiiictuntwl  witti  bliu)  uml  yullow,  and  proMmtii);;  micro- 
Mi-opio -jiili^  uf  iiil<:x  ul' mwit  «l(eunt  flhape*;  >iiuill  Pti'rn- 
[xxltw,  wliioli,  prutt^L-U'd  l>y  a  oalcaraotw  box,  and  supplied 
u-ith  twu  u-iii^,  en-im  ubout  in  tho  wurm  wator;  like  lliw 
und  ItiitU'rIlivit  in  liti-  nir.  Thu  t^lam  j^ir  into  w-liidi  the  nut 
IN  UirDod  >ti(t  wittliGd  tH  «iii)»  lillinl  nilh  tlione  members  of 
tlic  micromopio  world,  and  U>  a  naturalist  tbe^  give  day* 
or  study,  picMisiira,  and  inlbrmAtian. 

Wlivn  t(i«  iiirftci'  not  is  iwcd  a  sharp  eye  mimt  1)0  caj«t  on 
tliv  wiiU-n  urar  tlii;  bout,  it*  it  i»  only  intended  to  catch 
tJie  .Mul1ii»(<6  and  Xoophy  tefi,  which  are  perceived  Bwiniminir 
or  Hoatinrr  in  the  current.  The  obE«rver  Will  pmhtihly  sdod 
disouvur  cUuiiiM  of  Siilpa,  i-ilhcr  the  gi^intic  form,  SJilpa 
ArHeaiui  Dinximn,  with  it^  niidcuti  of  a  Sienna  brown 
o&lour,  or  the  mure  dLdicat«  Bjieciea  unmcd  "  deniooratioa 
tnaximH,"  n'loored  in  ultramanDe.  Sometimes  muro  than  a 
hundred  individtials  uv  united  in  a  chain  Hcveml  feet  liiDf;. 
Thi*  t«  a  Kiii<;i]liir  i;«nne.  in  which  tlie  nwlh<'r  tlivex  hirth 
to  oni.'  daiight^-r  very  difl«rcnl  fmm  lierKcir.  Thii^  d4U;^h(cr, 
in  h«r  luni,  produce*  hundredn  of  children  united  lik«  tJie 
8iaine«i  twins,  but  each  like  the  grandmother.  At  6n»t 
tfa«y  an  all  unitifd,  and  form  chiiino  and  rin^  o»  the  aur- 
taet  of  tlio  wa,  Ixit  one  after  the  ulher,  as  their  turn  to 
reproduce  tlic  race  urrivea,  separate  from  the  rest,  and  ^ive 
Qp  the  dnnoes  and  pastimes  of  youtji  for  tho  more  Mrions 
dotJM  of  life. 

Anionj;  ihi;  tre;i.s  lire  Trove  "ill  bo  jelly  fiihes,  bL-lont;in{f 
to  the  fiimity  of  <i<ir;;i>iiideit,  which  even  in  the  jar  try  lo 
eatch  some  small  fry,  as  likewise  Ct«nophotcs,  e«p>K:iully 
tho  livrou  ovats,  a  real  crystal  cncumbor,  the  Eucharis 
tDultieuniia,  which,  r>Me  or  yellow  tinged,  tweins  aa  it  pussoa 
under  the  hark  Ui  be  merely  a  rellection  of  Uie  full  moon, 
and  is  not  much  more  solid;  the  girdle  of  Vcuuk.  ^vhieh, 
^lidine  Mer|>ent-like  in  the  tvavcs,  is  nearly  invisibU,  uhJiuUjih 
thre«  foet  in  len'^th.  When  »cen,  iU  edge*  present  all  the 
colours  of  the  rainbow,  owing  to  tlie  vibration  of  ciliary 
hair». 

If  tlw  (lay  ia  n  favourable  one,  thu  "  fishurman"  will 
probably  mciitv  a   Sipliunopliora,  »  iiwimniin^  polytiior- 


142 


THE   MEDITKHRANBAS, 


pliouE  colony,  dt-ncrnlly  ti|>hi-l(1  liy  ii  smiill  Miidiler  lull  of 
iiir,  |<roviilc<l  ivitli  ii  L'cilunin  of  billii  nliori-Milli  lo  Hnim^ 
anil  ciirrjing  below  a  crowd  ol"  polyps  armed  with  urticani 
filaments,  opeiiiti-;  their  moutlis  on  all  sides  like  it  poly* 
wptiiil  Hydra;  liic  I'nga  cymbilorinis;  Uio  Ilip]>opi>(Iiti>j 
ItiU'it.i;  tlu-  Abylu  pi^iitiiguiia;  tlie  Dtphyes  aaiminiits j 
t li*' tArkuUa  cyfitviiiiu,  but  lor  tUe  biter  will  Ih;  rc-cjuiied 
the  lai<^»l  jar,  wliieli  one  cclony  will  lill  to  the  briin  ;  till 
I'liroiiiimit  »('(li'titiirin,  ii  erii>liK'riin  uliii.-h  pri-M-rven  iff 
cliildren  ciirelully  in  a  cradL-  «!'  uryt>lul  tiki-D  from  tlie 
very  snbstiiiiee  ol'  some  Kelnliiioua  aniinni  ;  the  luryB 
Firolvs,  c-ulk'd  by  tlie  Mi-diu-rriiuodH  RDhermen  "oliliiii 
di  mare;"  IiikLIv,  tliv  Cymbuliii  lVro«i»i,  which  cou<:cali 
itf  fot't  body  in  a  clipper  of  ocyntul,  u  Hli]i|H-r  that  reeall 
the  one  Cindercllu  wore.  It  is  one  of  the  niost  elej^not 
obji<eU  ima>finiiblv,  iind  for  its  eake  alone  the  itHtt  *t 
home  who  are  iiiixioii»ly  wuitiii;;  iho  lelni'ii  of  the  '<  fnulish 
fiKh«rn)en,"  will  purdon  the  diiLurbuiict;  eix-alid  by  tlie 
departure  before  break  of  day, 

I'rofeMor  I'u^ensteeber  was  very  Bucces^fid,  ho  told  mpj 
diirtn<;  th't  lew  wcekx  he  Kpent  with  lie,  niiil  rrtiiniud  tn 
Heidelberf;  hiden  with  tiiiin<;ruu«  Hcicnlitiu  trousur&i,  and 
very  happy  mini. 

1  may  riniiirk  thnt  I  have  never  knowu  an  tinhappy, 
iniKunthropit.'iil  niittindii't.  As  a  clues,  I  think  they  are 
truly  the  happiest  ami  moat  eontcnlctl  of  men.  ('oikiLanl 
communion  with  nature  drawK  their  thoughts  from  the 
cureo,  the  nnxietiet;,  the  heaiiicbeft,  the  passions  ol  life,  sn<] 
thereby  j)iinti>.ii  and  elevates  their  minds ;  whilwt  every 
advance  in  knowledge,  every  diKeoviry  iii:ide,  incieiistt  the 
admiintioii,  the  reverence  fell  for  thu  Divine  Author  of  al' 
thin^H,  who  hiiB  eo  tuurvellouslv  organized  everything  foi 
the  best. 

All  who  sail  on  or  live  near  the  Mediterranean  iioLi< 
the  peculiar  bluene^s  of  ilo  waten.  Thii*  tiii;;e  would  seei 
ti>  im]>ly  that  they  euntain  more  ault  than  the  waters  of  thtt 
ocean.  The  more  tuU  held  in  solution  by  wiiler,  the  bluer 
it  ii;  the  le^  salt,  the  greener  it  in.  Ilcnoe  the  lt){ht 
Rrceii  hue  of  the  I'olur  seaa,  whieh  contain  much  more 
Iresh  Waiter  than  lhi«e  ol  the  tropics.     Tho  litter  are 


gcnc-^ 


ITS  BLUE   COLOUB. 


143 


mllj',  rrom  tliiit  etoft,  of  a  docp  indi^,  like  tliv  ^tcJitt-r- 
rmiMii.  1*110  eva|>or4ition  fniin  lltu  fcurtitco  of  the  Mtilt- 
terranenn  al^tracU  a  much  gn-atiT  ijuaiitily  of  waler  lb4» 
it«  nvcn  I'lipply.  ]lcii<;u  tiio  «lron^  LUrruiit  that  sets  in 
from  till'  Di-mii  at  <iibn>ltnr,  and  nUo,  no  <loubt,  tliu  bluo 
linjce  of  iU  saline  w^tvtA. 

The  c<orreclncttB  of  the  sbovo  views  baa  hc«n  quoetioDed. 
I  wuutJ,  howfVLT,  rufiT  thut-i.>  who  doiibl  to  Iho  tirsl  throo 
|Mnigni)>hit  »r  Livulrnurit  Munry'i'  very  vuliuihl«  work  mi 
"TIm!  I*h_vsicjil  (i«^j|phy  of  ihc  S«a,"  It  ia  to  ihi.i  really 
r*si-iiuit>ii;,'  hook  thut  1  am  ii)d(.'litetl  fur  llic  explaiiatiou  1 

iVo  gtvaa  ol  tJio  |icciili:ii-  ti»Ii-{o  blue  colour  o<  the  Mcdi- 
in«iin.  It  tpay  he  oon»idt;n-(l  pruvvil,  lii-  *t4itn!,  by  fvclti 
derived  fruin  other  le^ioiia  of  the  wurlil'n  wstuTa,  uid  by 
KtunI  experiments. 

The  Guir  StrL-am,  whioh  oamrs  from  tlie  tropitf,  from 
tJie  Gulf  of  .Mfxico,  where  llie  heut  ik  pxln'mi;  and  evnpo- 
ntioD  very  great,  is  of  »  deep  blue  eoWr,  like  Iht-  Mcdi- 
terntnean.  This  colour  ix  co  dillVrent  t'rxim  thitl  of  ihc 
Rurruiindin(t  occun  Umt  the  hue  ol  <li-niar(r:ition  U  olwttrved 
with  eiiK%  and  in  cidm  weather  half  of  the  ship  mav  he 
¥ivn  in  the  (Julf  Streiiin  itnd  half  out.  AnulysL'd  by  Dr. 
ThuTnawy,  by  ineuns  of  a.  delicate  in«triiment,  tlie  aalt  hn« 
Lmh  found  lo  be  -t  per  cent,  in  the  blue  UuU  Stream, 
oppoeite  C'hatli-ston  ;  4i'ii  per  cent,  in  the  blue  tRH)e>wiiid 
resell;  whetw*  it  via*  only  3j  per  cent,  in  the  (-rei-iier 
wutcra  of  the  l^y  of  llinejiy.  A^iiin,  in  the  valt-work^  ou 
the  Bboren  ol'  IIk-  Adriatic  und  of  Frunce,  the  valit  or  |'o«Im 
into  which  the  eea-water  is  rvceived  lor  evuporation 
irxeniplify  the  roct.  After  rtandin-^  suniu  time  in  one  pool, 
for  the  purjiooe  uf  ev-nponilion,  the  Co»cci)triited  (teii-wiitcr 
i«  Tinssvd  luto  another,  and  bo  on.  As  it  becoini-x  more 
and  mvrc  loaded  with  oalt  the  colour  tj;radually  chun»a 
from  liphl  t»  de<  p  Moo,  lo  indif^o,  and  tinally  to  a  reddish 
tint  witiii  rryitalliiMtion  i«  about  to  comtnenoe.  "Tb« 
iiall-inaki?r«  jitd-te  of  the  rlchuna  of  the  sea-water  in  full 
by  iu  colour;  Ihc  ({neuer  the  hue  the  Ire^her  the  water." 

'Hie  cobiur  of  the  waters  of  glaciair  Klmuna,  of  the  Swiss 
Idkes,  or  of  the  Uhine  at  B&tc,  i»  quite  «  dilTcrenl  hue  lo 
lltat  of  ttie  Mediterriineiin.     It  ii  a  kind  of  light  blui^ih 


I -I  I 


TUB  MBOITERKANEAX. 


KTvea,  and   ia  «vidonUy  owiti^   to  some  other  plijvieaf 
cause. 

In  'lescribiii);  tliv  nntunil  fcaturM  of  tlto  Mentonian 
■fflphitlivatro,  I  rou>t  not  omil  to  Dienlton,  thnt  its  olivo 
niKJ  pin«  woods  are  alive  wilb  featlieiiMl  8ong»t«n.  Tiie 
notes  of  come  are  very  musical,  and  tliose  of  others  re- 
produM  »>un<l8  familiarly  Iirard  in  tiiv  t^iimmor  in  our  own 
pine  foniftK  in  FiiglxnJ.  The  wme  cannot  hi-  Mtid  of  the 
Htnall  ffrtvri  Iree^fro^  that  scramble  about  on  the  brfin<;hefl 
of  the  Olive-lrees,  or  of  lli«r  larger  brothers  that  live  in  or 
nmr  thu  binkt^.  In  winlor  they  arc,  fortunately,  silent ; 
but  wt  Kprin^  urrivM,  they  comnxmoc  every  cvvnins  an 
endlt^na  choriiH,  which  lastd  until  after  dayliglit,  mucli  to 
the  dismay  and  distress  of  thoeo  who  live  in  their  neigh- 
boarhood.  Thoy  certainly  more  than  compcnsnte  for  the 
DJghtingali:,  which  arrive*,  tm  with  uh,  <-jtrly  in  May,  and 
warble»  all  iitgbt  long  in  every  tree.  Many  of  the  birds 
«ra  winter  emigrants  from  the  north,  like  ourselves  in 
search  of  a  southern  sun.  Others  in  spring  make  a  more 
or  less  extended  Dojourn  on  the  North  Mcditerrnncnn  coast 
on  their  ruliirn  from  rooi-c  mluthuni  re^^ions.  Thu  olives 
and  pine  conea  allord  them  ubtiiidant  food. 

On  the  sea,  near  the  shore,  aro  constantly  seen  troops  of 
eefi-(^lls,  attracted  by  the  household  refuse  which  the 
inhubiUtntH  lire  rather  too  prone  to  «tfl  over  tbi;  Hi-a-wall 
into  the  mU  water.  ^Vhen  wind  and  storm  ore  looming 
on  tJie  horiiton  they  are  more  especially  numerous,  some- 
times congTi't^tin^  in  tloclcR  of  eovcrul  hundred.  'I'hey 
cvnomtly  nwini  abuut  on  the  wavcn  near  the  shore,  and 
took  very  picturei«iue  when  present  in  such  numbers.  Sea- 
gulls are  iiiterestinj;  birds  in  more  ways  than  one.  When 
ridinu  on  llie  waters  Ihi-y  buvc  more  than  the  usual  (^ce 
and  elt'-;.itR-«  of  utjuatic  btrdx,  and  whoii  s'imiiiii;  aloli,  all 
but  motionlvM'.  or  de*cribing  eddying  circk-H,  the  ntrengtb 
and  BtoouthncM  of  their  f)i)fbt,  and  their  perfect  seU'-pos- 
Bession,  are  pleasant  to  behold.  $i-n-<;ullK  appear  to  soon 
become  familiur  with  man  in  the  piiniuit  of  food,  anil  a 
truly  reniaiUahIc  ftalure  iu  their  history  in  the  perlinaeHy 
with  which  tht-y  fallow  vessels,  et'pecially  stenmeis,  for  the 
I  of  the  ollu!  thrown  overboard,     lu  the  Meditormnuan 


SEA-QV  I.IJ*—  B  W  A  LIjOWS. 


145 


ihty  lie  In  wait  off  the  \mrU,  nud  a  choccn  baD<i  itarts 
wiLli  ncjirly  every  Bt«uiiier,  and  follows  it,  fair  weather  or 
foul,  to  it«  dcetinntion.  They  have  thus  Qccom|>3nied  me 
on  moet  of  my  loti[^r  MidiUirrnnMii  excumon^,  euch  as 
from  Corsica  to  Marsetllw,  from  Mewtiiia  to  MnnMiillex. 
On  the  Utter  voya^^  a  troop  of  ei^ht  joined  iia  aa  we  left 
the  )>ort  of  Mi-!>«ma,  and  were  'lying  about  us  for  three 
i)ie;htji  and  two  days,  sppurcnlly  ever  on  the  wiiiff. 
Wliciiever  I  was  on  di-clc  Uipy  were  there,  not  merely  fnU 
htwin({  the  veescl,  hut  leisurely  flyiiifj  iu  ciicles  half  a  mile 
in  advance  of  u*:,  or  a  mile  or  two  heliind.  Bits  of  lii-ead 
thrown  into  ihi:  »c»  hmut^lit  them  all  to  ok  in  a  fi-tv 
■nconds.  'riieir  wondcTfutly  acute  ei^ht  at  once  detrctMl 
the  prise,  when  they  wonld  descend  from  a  great  hei){lil, 
liki)  RQ  arrow,  and  pounco  on  the  finnllest  moreel  lloating 
in  the  foaming  furrow  traced  hy  the  vessel.  'Hie  cnptniii 
ajtid  that  thi-y  knew  the  tra«k  of  the  Mediterranean 
«t«au>erN  aa  well  as  the  oldest  pilots.  I  have  heen  told 
tliat  thi-y  follow  in  the  same  way  the  8t«amorB  trom  New 
York  to  Europe  for  tvn  days  and  more.  They  proUthly 
rest  and  sltrep  oceaHionally  on  the  hoaom  nf  the  aea,  and 
afterwards  overtake  the  ship  by  their  rapid  lii^:ht, 

Thu  martins  or  swnllowH,  im  I  have  slated,  never  aban- 
don Um  sbeltttred  ntviiieN  ami  kiin-heatcd  rooky  m<mii|jiinti  of 
the  Pont  St.  Louiii  throughout  the  winter,  findint;  ^ufKoient 
ini^i^'t  life  to  maintain  them.  All.houii^h  in  an  e.vi'cptioually 
warm  and  r-hcllerad  nook  like  theM*  rocks  they  may  thus 
rc^niain, the  general  awallow  population  migrate*  from  the 
Jtiviera  as  it  does  from  more  northern  countries,  eroMJng 
the  Mixliterrancan  to  AfricA.  It  is  not  really  known  where 
(hey  llniilly  go  in  mid-winter.  I'rolinbly  ihi-y  kwp  movini; 
south  a^i  wtnt4-r  advaiiu-s.  In  Algeria  they  aiv  nut  more 
statiounry  than  in  southeni  Europe,  goiug  Bouth,  into  the 
desirri  when  winter,  cold,  niiil  rain  sets  in;  nnlofe  il  ho  iu 
Hiimo  ■■xcptiiiiinlly  sheltered  nook,  sndt  lu  tbt-  Uorgo  of 
C'liilfu.  There  1  wm  told  that  they  retnairwd  all  winter, 
M  at  the  St.  Louis  rooka  at  Mentone,  keeping  comjNiiiy 
with  the  monkeys,  of  which,  however,  we  cannot  boaat. 
Some  travvUcTM  »prak  ofiieeiiig  them  in  Senegal  in  mid* 
wiiiliT,  und  Herodotus,  twenty-three  ceatnriot  ago,  states 

L 


ua 


THE  MEDITEHRANEAN. 


that  Bwalloivsare  TouikI  tliroui^liout  tbe  yi-nr  iit  tlio  eotirccs 
of  the  Nile.  As  he  cuitninly  had  not  vii^itiNl  the  NiU  lic;i<), 
n  e\nTy  rcMrved  to  our  oouDtrymen  in  recent  daya,  b«  tni»t 
have  had  the  uimc  hazy  nolioii  urwhat  becomes  ofstrBllovra 
in  winter  that  we  have-. 

The  pTvsvnue  of  the  martins  .itlmc1«  hiiwkti  and  occumion- 
nlly  the  inajebtie  eng1«  IVuin  the  adjoininj;  Alpine  r«-s;ions. 
I  have  often  luin,  in  mid-;vint4.-r,  fur  hours  nmon;^  the  rocVs 
at  St.  Loiiif!,  high  ahovo  thu  hluv  vi>sHi,-l-dollt.-d  *ea,  wilh 
tlic  wild  Thyme,  tlie  Hoacinary,  and  the  Cneoruin  in  ftill 
llower  .iround  me,  watuliing  their  movcmenta.  As  they 
Ifstn  conlitJenco  Uiuy  n-i'iimi;  ihvir  rapid  tli^ht  in  nod  out  of 
the  rockf,  chiwinsj;  the  InHcct*  iu<  nn  a  fiuv  Kiii^h^h  »nmini'r 
irv«niii^.  Suddenly  a  nohle  hatvk,  occasinnully  a  niujeetio 
Atjjiiie  ea;;lc,  appctire,  fu.irincf  aloft  with  «'ide-ftrot<'hed 
|iinion».  The  poor  niailin*,  Klridii'n  with  IWr,  JnKluntly 
Mck  u  tehi^v,  and  iu  a  iew  ^eoundH  di:<ii{i[iiriir  fruni  the  ^xe 
of  thrir  rulliU'K!'  iinmuer.  Sweepinir  from  ontt  rock  to  tha 
other,  he  cceuis  to  enjoy  the  oonlufion  and  solitude  he  has 
<:reated,  iind  remains  "the  monarch  of  nil  hu  surveys." 

My  irieiid  Mv.  Truherne  Mogjjridge,  iiuthor  of  the  wtrrk 
I  havu  menliuned,  "The  t'lura  of  ikii-ntone,"  who  haa 
made  thv  ornithology  of  the  Riviera  a  study,  tells  mo 
that  the  rock  Martin  kwhIIow  dops  not  vi^it  Kn<;lnnd 
in  the  summor,  allhuut;h  il  awcndii  qiiitu  ii*  far  north,  in 
an  easterly  direction.  Like  many  other  summer  mixrunia 
from  the  t>oulh,  il  tnkcx  n  north-ctisterly  course.  The  rock 
Martin  i«  the  «oIe  memhi-r  of  tim  swidlow  gciiux  that 
winters  iu  KiiMjie,  and  that  oiilv  in  a  few  warm  shcitered 
localities,  such  iis  Oihroltar,  Mentone,  and  Ibc  coast  of 
Gix-cce.  Mr.  T.  Mo^gridire  says  that  he  has  noticed  other 
Urdu  iif  [mssiige  during  the  winter  al  Mentone,  such  ns  tita 
Idaek  Uedstart  and  the  Willow  Wren.  In  oampany  with 
Uiesu  I'irdH,  altlKiii^h  of  very  different  habits,  he  has  ob. 
■crrad  lh«  heiiiililnl  Book  Cncper  {TirioJrumii  gorti/iiia),  a 
live  of  the  Tree  Creqicr  of  our  woadv.  Like  thii)  latter 
it  is  nintlj  sei-n  on  ihi-  win;f,  but  ui-eejis  npstit'p  and 
-mtty  impracticaljie  surlnocs  of  rock,  with  a  jerking 
II  and  slight  spue  mod  iu  ex[)an«iou  oftheuing,  dipping 
■ng  I'tll  into  the  enevices  of  the  rock  ait  it  ascends. 


BIRDS— HUMMING    BIRD   MOTH. 


147 


Tlic  Txxljr  i«  of  a  inoucc  ?rcy,  but  tho  upper  pari  "f  tlii." 
iii?;irly  Muck  wing  is  of  a  line  crimson  cakitir,  imd  tlier«  is 
a  row  of  white  spots  on  the  qtiill  foiithLTs.  Tha  Pont  St. 
IjouU  rocVs  wri-  u  fiivoiirit<i  r<*ort  of  tlii*  very  iiiU-rL-»t!n-; 
hint,  hut  iici  ihmht  it  niiiy  l>e  siien  on  ollii-r  t>otntA  uf  ih<: 
coast.  Itius  it  hiLs  been  notic«i)  npartlio  miln'ay  tunnels 
through  the  rocks  on  thv  romi  hi-twm-ti  Fiiifilo  atitl  Genoii; 
it  in  woll  known  in  Itnly  inui  Sjmin. 

Oats  of  the  oritantentjt  of  tho  llower  ^nlen  in  autumn, 
ami  a  constant  visitor  to  onr  rooms  in  winter,  is  the  hum- 

injf  bin!  hiiwk   moth   {Afurro^l'MM  »/ft/<ilarnm).     It  in  li 

rgc  hnt.wn  moth,  with  a  nuxi^e-likn  haAy  iind  hvntl,  bril- 
liant ey«,  small  ivinsfs,  and  a  ti)nmie  un  inch  or  two  in 

nclh,  UHitatly  Qurlcd  ap  probo^ms  sfinpe.  It  ha^  llie  power 
to  uurt  thin  ton<pj«,  witli  invuintjini'imx  r.iptOity,  Into  tho 
CofolU  of  f\ttvn>n,  to  hlle  them  of  tho  iiuL'tar  on  which  it 
feeda.  When  liorering  over  llowera  I  am  toM  that  it 
thoroushly  resembles  the  hiiromini;  bird  oC  tropical 
eoiinlrii-s,  whence  its  name.  Thcst-  moihs  nro  nc<!asior>a)1y 
neon  in  warm  ifnmmi^r  wiuthiT  in  Knt^Utxl.  Tlicy  arc  tut 
doubt  driv4-n  into  the  houseit  by  the  incrensin^  cold  of  the 
ni^l«.  lliey  arc  really  pri-tty  (.-iviitiircs,  nnd  I  liitvo  oDcq 
hud  Mveral  in  the  drHwinjr-nioTn  fonhiy"  t«g\-lhi'r,  hovt-rin-j 
over  eiit  lh>woni,  daKin;;  their  tongue  in  an<l  out  of  tho 
corollas,  nnd  fecdia;;  ou  their  sweats. 

The  St.  Louis  rooks  nuu  all  but  perpend  icalnrly  from  the 
fciii,  on  Uie  Oiwlcrn  wide  of  the  <rai>ti;rn  buy,  the  Oeiioii  r^iail 
'bciug  bliiotml  fnim  their  flanba.  They  proH'ut,  ni^r  the 
bliore,  u  flw-p,  irrcjiular,  and  picttire^ue  clell  .ir  ruviiK-, 
ciecupiod  by  ii  w:it<T<:i)nr*o  which  I'iills  :is  u  casende  from  a 
eonaidi-rstlilu  hi<ii;ht.  The  road  urovHOK  this  ravine  by  ii  hold 
nnd  ele|>iint  brid;^  of  one  arch,  which  U  now  the  frontier 
between  France  and  Itidy.  .Mii&ttrs  of  rock,  i^re^nlar{y 
divided  and  worn  by  tlm  convulxioHH  of  nature,  wid  by  tho 
arlion  of  wat«r  nnd  weather,  form  the  tioiiudBrii.-H  of  the 
ravine.  'I'hi^y  are  |Mrlly  naked,  jiarlly  cicithcd  with  moun- 
tain plant*,  LuntiMuo  buHh<-«,  Thyme,  the  Cneorum, 
VaWian,  Oyti»ii»,  (JorouiUn,  and  Bliii,-I)>'ll.  TlirBi-  rocks  are 
viiiiHuuoua  with  the  r>d:;e  thai  nt^eendn  t»  llio  Kerv«:ni,  one 
of  the   high    mount£ii»8  of  tho   Mentoiiian  umphitbeutre 

L,  i 


148 


THE  MKDITERRANEAS. 


(3850  feet).  A  few  hundred  fwl  atravu  ttic  s^a  lin« 
tbo  fconv  Iwcoincs  very  wild  and  ^ruod.  'Jlu-  moiititaiii 
awuniat  Ihe  form  ol'  a  fanUutio  vans*  nf  hu^  rucks  ami 
NtODW.  In  one  re{jion  tbey  form  a  epeciee  ol' stony  tor«nt, 
urmted  in  its  npid  dicn-nt  i  in  snotlicr  thi-y  niv  pili-d  'im? 
I'YcT  the  other  in  tivery  onuoivahle  whupi',  It  in  thv  wild* 
ntv*  and  naked  stony  confueion  of  a  mountain  summit, 
n-ithin  a  few  hiindrml  k-vt  of  the  wa-level. 

On  th«  NKtvm  ride  of  the  St.  Louis  ravine,  lying  on  the 
itid«  of  the  mountain,  neven  hundred  feet  above  the  tva,  is 
«  very  picturesque,  grpy-lookins  villa<Te,  Urimaldi  by  name. 
It  La  nwn  from  the  town  aud  llio  eastern  bay,  unarming 
ilielf  iu  tlic  >uu,  aud  iw  generally  rendered  consi>ietii>u*  by 
patches  of  while  which  surround  it;  this  ia  the  linen  of 
the  infaaljitants,  lyiu);  on  the  mountaio  to  dry.  On  the  Iei\ 
eidc  of  till-  (ienoa  rvmd,  wbivh  winds  above  the  shore  lliuttcd 
oat  of  t]ie  solid  limeMtone  ri>eli«,  below  the  village,  i<  an  old 
mined  mcdiuval  ca«t«llati'd  tower,  which  formrrly  belonged 
to  the  Counts  of  Grimaldi.  It  was  built  either  (o  protect 
the  coaet  and  tiio  town  from  the  attacks  of  the  roving 
MiHirx  and  Saracens  a  thouMiud  yoary  ago,  or  by  the  liitt«r 
when  they  were  maetem  of  the  countn'.  It  is  known  by 
iUk  name  of  the  Grimnldi  or  Saraien  tower,  and  it  is  from  a 
small  watch  turret  near  it  llial  >e  taken  the  very  trulliful 
view  of  the  Mentone  ampbitheatru  reproduced  in  the  frontis- 
ptuec.  This  is  one  ol  the  most  sheltered  Hjiots  that  can  be 
fonod  in  the  entire  did  net,  and  t)ie  view  from  it  is  certainly 
line  of  the  tnuot  coni|>k-tc  and  nioift  lovely.  It  tw  lu-n;  that 
I  have  eatahlished  my  winter  garden.  ^Viih  a  view  to  the 
eidtivation  of  llowcr^  and  to  the  tranquil  enjoyment  of 
"invalid  Warunv  life"  in  honre  of  leisure,  1  have  become, 
as  already  ttalcd,  the  biippy  pro])riotor  of  the  old  tower,  of 
the  cmiling  sunny  terrnoes  that  adjoin  it,  and  of  a  eomiider- 
able  extent  of  the  rocky  mountain  side. 

At  the  Wtom  of  Ihc  |itctiiiVKquc  ravine,  which  is  eroescd 
by  the  1k>M  Si.  IaiuIi  bridge,  tbi-re  lo  a  wiitei'coum',  that  ia 
made  to  irn^ateaud  fertilize  all  I  lie  terraccB  to  wliiob  it  can 
he  diverted.  litdei-d,  the  s''°v^  of  Lemon  trees  which 
-«ver  the  mountain  side  before  we  rrai.h  the  St.  Iiuuis 
•w  uwe  tbeir  exbtencetoits  waters.    In  the  lower  |>art  of 


I 


A- 


TH8  ST.    LOFIS  R0CK8. 


149 


,  t(i«  mvine  th«re  ik  an  aqueduct  on  aruliea,  whioh  tniJilioii 
Bays  was  Imilt  in  the  tinio  oi  the  Itomans.  Scvoril  liunJiol 
fiH-l  liijjlii'r  there  is  n  smiill  water  can»l,  ncoojwil  out  of  lli« 
rock,  nhkh  d«Meii(lj  iVotn  the  up|>er  part  of  th<!  rjvine.  An 
it  id  a  eliort  cat  from  the  villa^  of  Urimaldi  to  Alcntont!, 
the  vilUgors  constantly  mnko  u«0  of  it,  iiltlion^U  them  in 
ccnr«ily  foot-room  for  oiio  ]>i;r*on,  and  tin;  pr^cipicu  it 
imiuedtutely  ul  the  niili*.  In  one  part  the  aqiie{l*iot  tii  su 
iDUcli  iit  a  DoUow  of  tho  rock  that  there  is  scarcely  room  t>i 
pau  upri<;ht.  A  tiile  i*;  t'lM  o(  n  yuitti^^  •;trl  who  all  hor 
life  hu  Itlitlioly  mid  fe^rUiwly  (nivi^rmHl  this  {xilh.  Shu  i^tt 
married,  had  a  baby,  and  carried  the  cradle  on  her  head,  ai 
is  the  cuAtiiin  of  thu  pi?asant6  va  this  couutry.  One  day  shu 
took  the  likmiliar  road,  with  the  cndle  in  the  lutu]  position, 
forgot  the  roek  above,  sLniotc  against  it,  and  was  ilajilied 
over  the  precipice  with  her  child. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  St.  Louis  ravine  are  thu 
"  warm  lermiMui,"  u  I  have  lumod  tl)i>m,  the  warmml 
ru^rion  of  Mmitoiie.  Ou  the  rocky  mi>uiitain  tflope  the 
owuvra  have  aeooped  out  and  built  a  aerii^s  of  terraces,  whieh 
have  been  entirely  planted  with  Lomon<treee.  Thwe 
trtx-8  owe  thiiir  esistenci?  entirely  to  the  streamlet  which 
bn*  been  diverted  from  the  ravine  watereonrae,  and  which 
ii'iiiraU'*  the  terraces,  HUiiii;  lar^^e  tanks  for  summer  usu. 
Shvltvred  on  every  ^idc  except  the  south  and  south-west, 
saturulei)  with  annihlne  ri-<.>m  early  morning  to  evenin:;, 
the  roi'k  and  »<>il  n>-vcr  cmoI,  and  cotd  and  fr>j«t  arc  iinknoivn, 
well  oil  oxeeptioiial  cold  daya.  Thiu  they  conatitute  a 
iialui'al  hotbed,  whui-e  ve-,^tution  is  always  in  advanei-, 
where  winU'r  in  unknown,  aud  where  invalids  may  eufi-ly 
while  away  the  dity  in  the  coldcs't  we-atliur. 

The  strau^T  wanderinij;  amon^  the  rocka  above  these 
temUKS  may  accidentally  come  across  a  small  bl^ck  metal 
crow.  This  ero<4  c<)mmcmi>rateit  a  painftil  catiwtrophe  thnb 
ocourred  aome  years  n;;o.  A  »prii;litly  F2uglL<h  girl  of  ten, 
whoso  parenta  occupied  the  villa  below,  esoaped  with  a 
youniter  sister  from  their  eaverDOds,  and,  in  li;fht-henrt«il 
play,  verambled  up  the  rocko.  Having  reached  this  wild 
rcjtifip,  Uh)  elder  one  climlwd  upan  a  p.Mk  to  mive  her 
haiidkeruhief  in  r<.*c»gnition  to  a  friend  beloiV.     Uafortii- 


150  THK   MKblTI^RKANGAN. 

nattily  the  Wtlu'r  fnoting,  Ml  Iicml-runNno*!,  ninl  wtt»  killeJ 
Oil  the  spot.  'Micre  was  uuivur^iil  mourning;  f'»i'  the  auiI  futv 
of  the  lair  Eii^li^ii  child  on  llic  |>urt  of  tlie  kiiid-henrtLtl 
Ml' Utopia  IIS,  mill  tvcii  now  llm  fcavfiil  accidiMil  is  ncviT 
iiicnliuiiviJ  without  (le(.-)i  nymiiutliy  for  llio  Uumvcil  puniiitf. 

'riie  b.acli  uiiiWrneatii  ana  beyonJ  the  SL  Louis  raviue 
is  singularly  hcautiriil.  Thu  red  liiDPstonc  nicke,  ttic  red 
t'ovk«,ii)f  l\ivy  lire  gun  orally  (■iilK'il,iiscrii>I  iH-rpCiiilitnlnrly  to  u 
gteal  hei);hc,  and  tliti  nUom  u  moivly  lannvd  of  d^liriaand  of 
udvanuiii;;  butlrcsecti  of  iho  eamu  formatioD,  unrked  liy  the 
waves  into  llii-  moi^t  jii(;<^:d,  irn-f^liir,  and  innlu^tii^  sliajn-s. 
^Vbetl  tlitfi'o  i*  It  nlrtitig  fouIh-wcKtcily  f^iilf  lilowiiig  the 
Uii\eaare  tlirowii  uu  Ilieee  ruuke  willi  extremt;  I'uive,  and 
aie  broken  ioto  fonm  and  Fpray  that  rise,  with  a  noise  liko 
Ihundoi,  to  a  i^reul  lH'i};ht.  On  one  ]>oint  thci%  is  a  «nb- 
terraiR-un  jiuMSiiire  or  tuiiniO,  ihio  whiuli  the  vcu  ix  enguirvd, 
to  wfcape  further  on  in  the  shape  of  a  ma^nilk-ent  "jet 
d'l'jm."  The  eigiit,  in  stoimy  weather,  is  vtry  grand. 
TliL-  Bunc  caves  ar«  at  tho  bow  of  these  red  TocJiti,  ahovv  tfav 
coast  line. 

Along  uud  on  tliu  tihori;  rocks  used  to  pass  the  road  to 
(Knoa,  a  meiv  mule  track,  an  belorost^ti-d.  llemains  of  it 
slil)  exist,  mid  it  constitutes  onu  of  tho  must  pieturesi|UO 
and  |)leiiMknL  promcuudiv.  Thu  view  uf  Meutone  mid  of 
il»  uniphitheutie  is  veiy  ilne  from  this  potrit.  Ahuut  half 
H  mile  Iwyoiiil  the  torrent  that  deeceiids  from  the  St.  Iiouia 
ravine,  tho  path  pusse»  iilong  the  shore  over  a  t^ully,  by  » 
bridge  of  one  areli,  no  thin  and  light  that  it  i«  croMtid  for 
the  first  time  with  some  apprehension.  It  iii  »uid  to  be  of 
Ilomun  construction,  and,  sjnall  as  it  is,  eeenia  worthy  of 
mich  iin  ori;;iti. 

Sonio  biild  rocks  which  here  rife  out  of  the  nca  near  ilie 
iHliore,  and  give  llie  command  of  deep  water,  are  the  favourite 
liiiuut  of  an}:lers.  1  have  tried  my  fuitnne,  in  a  piscatory 
Kense,  but  uilh  very  little  success.  ^Vnuld  not  mm« 
T)lat)  of  gruund-buiting  be  likely  to  attract  the  (inny  tribe? 
The  refiixe  whieh  the  tuwnapeople  throw  into  the  »ea,  over 
the  <juay,  at  the  entrance  of  tho  town,  seems  to  huvo  that 
I'Hect:  a  fact  which  accounts  for  the  biibiluHl  pu-vence  of 
tuitivv  migten.     I  leave  thi»  4ueHtioti,  however,  to  tbote 


I 


OnUM  SINE  OIGKITATB. 


151 


more  learned  than  myself  in  the  art.  On  tliMo  roctis  w 
found  till-'  "sanijihirf,"  whiirli  Ik  not  coniinctl  to  lli>!  tiiray 
bei^hts  of  Dover.  The  ret^ion  is  nU'j  a  labourite  habitat 
of  th«  CiDcm  maritima,  and  oi'the  ele^nt  I^vatora. 

A  etron<;  sea  wall,  Dn<l  a  brcuxl  foot  C4u<eway  linvc  been 
built  al<)n<r  th«  dioro  of  the  eiurt<!rn  hay,  from  tliu  town 
to  th«  St.  Lotii«  rookd.  Tims  an  atltnirable  promenade, 
fihelt«rcd  from  the  north-east,  hiu;  been  formed,  nioxt 
vidiuibli;  to  the  inTalids  who  inhabit  Ih^  eastern  bay. 

1  would,  huwevrr,  warn  all  real  invahda  iiuver  to  loniiife 
or  sit  on  the  aca-bcai'h  unless  thero  be  a  dead  onlm. 
Gonrrally  spt'iiliinfj.  whi-n  there  is  a  perccptiUc  swi-lin-PiC, 
with  rollin;*  wnvc-c,  it  i*  ilangvrouK.  A*  previou.-dy  ox- 
plaineKl,  alllioii^h  this  hree2«  apparently  oonies  from  the 
eoutb,  it  is  olten  in  reality  a  north  wind  dellected  UtniU 
H-ar<)e.  As  suoh  it  may  produce  a  ehill,  and  |;iv<^  rinc  to 
ooldn  or  sore-lhroaU,  or  to  even  more  serious  mincliief.  I 
ut^en  lev)  inclined  to  stop  my  carriage,  and  pUi)tinlhropi> 
rally  to  warn  inv.ilid  strangers,  whom  I  see  sittiiij;  or 
lyins  on  the  bcauh  in  January  or  rebruury,  as  if  they  wvrv 
enjoying  "otiam  t'mf  /itynit'ilt"  on  our  own  nhorcH  lu  July 
or  An^isi.  This  luads  mi!  to  reinnrk  that  iu  our  active, 
fevertHh  modern  civllixation  the  old  chiMio  snyin;;  which 
I  have  quoted  (awry)  ha«  oeawd  to  bo  true.  "  Kum-  or 
letfiirc  and  dignity"  no  longer  go  together.  Now,  it  must 
be  ease  without  dignity,  or  dij^nily  wiUiout  eas«.  Tim  two 
caD  no  lunger  be  combined. 


CHAPTER  Vr. 


TMK  (.'LIUATF.  OFTHF.  (>KNr)l«K  RIVMP.RA  AXD  OF  UENTONE 
CONSIUKKBD  MEDICALLY, 

"  Wboom  wishM  to  inveatij^tA  mKlioine  proprrlT.  alKiald 
procood  tliim :  in  Um  first  place  to  coasidor  tko  Kiuoiii  oi  the  ,v«ttr, 
and  wbiit  cSoeta  cacb  of  tluem  pniilaiio* :  for  thej  iu«  not  all  itlike> 
but  differ  much  frotd  tlieiiiaelveti  id  ngurd  tu  tbeir  chaogoe." 

BiFrocnATKs  lOn  Atra.  Waters,  Ukd  PIacon). 

To  appreciate  t1ip  meilirnl  vbarnct«ri«tics  or  tlio  climiite  of 
the  Genoese  Riviera  mid  of  MiMitone  in  r^ncral,  it  is  only 
neocwnry  to  weigh  the  motoorolo^ricul  fncUi  eiiunciatvd  in 
n  preceding  chapter. 

A  cool  but  sunny  atmosphere,  so  dry  that  a  fog  is  nev«t 
seen  at  any  period  of  the  «-int«r,  either  on  sen  or  lnn<l, 
muse  be  bracinff,  invigoraliiift,  i^tiiniilaling.  Such  are  tha 
lending  feature*  of  thiv  region — the  undercliff  of  central 
Km  rope. 

Uehind  the  monntainx  which  nkirt  the  Riviera  and  Uio 
Mentoniaii  amphitheatre,  tu  midwinter,  tut  wc  have  mttm, 
flroirt  and  unow  may  and  -^tten  do  extend  up  to  the  north 
{Kile,  more  than  two  thousand  five  hundred  mileE,  On  the 
other  hand,  the  wind  hlow«  from  the  northern  <|i)ttrt<jrs 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  Hinti:r  neainin.  The  air 
miMt,  t]ietefore,  he  eool,  and  wouhl  Iw  eohl,  were  il  not 
M'arnied  by  an  ardent  Bun,  darting  it«  rays  thrau;:h  a  cloud- 
\we  elcy  and  »  dry  atmufphcre-^wcre  it  not,  aUo,  for  the 
summer  heat  stored  up  in  the  rooka,  and  t;iveii  out  by  them. 
These  eanses  keep  Menione  free  from  frost  when  it  reigns 
all  around,  but  cannot  make  it  a  tropical  climate.  There  i» 
no  Bui'h  ehmata  on  the  ihore*  and  in  the  ii^linidit  of  the 
Mctliterrnnean ;  there  b  no  region  in  the  Mediterranean 
basin  free  from  tJie  inHitence  of  the  cold  poUir  winds. 


TUR   RIVIKRA.   MEmCAU.V   CON'SIUEaED.       153 


Sucli  n  wiittcT  climate,  hovrevor,  in  perfedion  for  nil  who 
want  bracinj.',  renovation — for  llie  very  youii;',  thf  invalid 
miilille-a;^!,  »iid  the  VL'ry  old,  in  wliom  vitiility,  defoutive 
or  tl:i;,"B'"(Ji  tW|iiiiX'x  roiiHiiig  «nil  »timnliling.  It  unitox, 
indeiHJ,  all  the  (tondiliotiH  uak-uljted  to  ext-fciiw  n  btinelidul 
iullueooe  in  any  state  ot'  lowerod  vitnl  power. 

Ttu)  cool,  but  plu;isant  tern  pv rut u re,  thv  PliFniilatio;*  in- 
flt)«nev  of  the  siinHhine,  the  usual  alMfiKM'  of  rain  or  of 
continuwl  rain,  the  m<Kk'mte  dryness  of  the  air,  render 
daily  eitercise  out  of  door§  both  po^-iblo  and  a^reeablu. 
Ii)drH-d,  in  BHi-'Ii  n  region  lifu  mny  U*  spent  out  "f  doors 
thro»|i;liout  idl  Imt  the  rnlin;  uintvr.  Sm'li  un  oxiatuTici?, 
in  such  cxindilaons,  bud  a  direct  tendency  to  create  ami  to 
•u«tnin  tli«  appetito,  anil  to  improve  the  digestive  and 
Dutritivu  ftiiiotionK. 

lt»e  pureH  of  the  akin,  ako,  are  kopt  permnticiitly  opon, 
sod  thus  the  liinjts  are  relieved  of  the  estra  burden  which 
is  bIwdj-r  thrown  upon  them  in  northern  cliiniitcs,  when  the 
eold  itainp  of  wintL-r  superveocs.  It  is,  indeed,  bvcaiisu  the 
fanctionu  of  the  skin,  u  an  excretory  or^in  and  u«  n  piirtllcr 
of  the  blood,  arc  all  but  arnwted  by  the  odd  t»  our  eUmat*-, 
that  so  re*  throat,  intiuenza,  bronchitis,  «nd  kidney  diseases 
in  t^utieral  are  oo  prevalent  in  winter,  or  vsititing, bcuumo  ho 
iigt^nkvate<l.  TIm;  work  of  Itlnod-piiri  lien t  ion,  accompliKliml 
in  w;inn  wither  by  the  «kin,  is  thrown  in  winter  on  the 
Rineoiu  nicmbnines  of  the  lunio<  aud  air  pnssajfee,  And  uQ 
the  kidtieyN.  Thirco  or^in)!  arc  oon^^-Htcl,  diokod,  as  it 
iw«r»,  ami  auecinitb  to  tJie  extra  »v.>rk,  the  blood  ileelf 
beooming  poisoned  by  ita  delicient  purilicatioii  of  worn  out 
nuteriala  Hence  the  cotda  or  mucons  membruie  inHam- 
mattonii,  aitd  Uic  fwcr  that  aceoinpaniet  them,  in  tin; 
winter  season  of  the  norlb,  as  liken-tso  varioua  other  tornis 
of  chest  and  kidney  di»easo.  llenue  also  the  comparative 
immunity  Ifoin  tlietie  allections  on  the  Riviera. 

I  Mcloutcd  Mcntone  i«  my  winter  rcxideneo  many  yc9n> 
a^,  Ixx-atiMi  1  wiL<  nuffenn)F  from  advanced  pulmonary 
consumption.  Many  of  tlie  invalids  who  liave  foliowml 
my  example  have  lial)ourG<l  under  the  same  dire  disease. 
That  ihu  clioioii  wax  n  rational  one,  will,  I  think,  be 
^(■ernlljr  admitted,  on  counidonitiou  of  the  facts  above  stated. 


154 


TlIK  RIVIEBA    ASD  SrENTONE 


Wtiun  I  Gnit  arrived,  there  were  scaroely  any  Rtrang 
))Ul  sinuo  1  have  <lr»»-n  tlie  attention  of  mj  fdlow  )>nie> 
titiuncRt  to  thr  viiIih;  of  Ilik  climate  nf  n  health  resort 
iu  clieat  aflectiooN,  ttio  f»i\-i<;ii  jioptilitioii  lias  ycurly  in- 
«re««;d,  ami  numWred  last  winter  (1873-74)  above  xixteen 
iiuiidred.     It  oontiiins  teprcsentativcs  of  irMNtt   Kuroiwan 
nation*;  the  Eii^lUh  and  French,  liowcver,  have  hitlierto 
been   tlie  tami   ainnvinito.     Since   the  translation  of  thift, 
uork  into  (iermau  (in  18(i3)  mnny  Gormnni?  Iinve  made  it 
tlieir  winter  aWIe,     Our  American  cmwinn  are  also  fimlinf;  • 
tlieir  niiy  to  Mentoiie  in  yeiiily  inercjutini;  nwinUn*,  wimMj 
the  fouitli  edition  wu  nulilistiea  in  New  York  (1870).  i 

I'hlliiiiis  is  eMentially  a  disease  of  debility.  It  prin»| 
<'i|ially  attnckf  those  wiw  have  reecived  «rfj«ii«ation«  6«>»[ 
lieient  in  vitality  ftom  their  parents,  or  who  have  injured 
the  vitality  of  an  originally  good  conslilution  by  exeewe* 
of  any  kind,  or  in  whom  siK-h  a  ciinstitution  has  been 
)Ri|>.iirei]  by  over  work,  or  by  hardsliipw  and  privation* 
iiiileptndent  of  their  own  will.  In  mucIi  a  difcase — OiM 
depi-ndent  on  defcetive  vitality — a  bracinf;,  EtimnUtinff 
elimatv,  such  as  1  have  deecrilicd,  must  Iw  Ixnieficial,  and 
has  been  most  deetdt<dly  so,  both  in  my  own  case  and  ID^ 
tlioHc  of  tha  man^-  wliunt  I  have  attetidwl. 

With  Uie  awistance  of  sunahiiic,  a  dry,  bracing  atino>^ 
epherc,  R  mild  temperatui-e,  and  rational  ethenie  treatment 
tiygieuie,  dietolie,  ami  me<Iicin»l,  I  have  tumid  piilraonar}' 
coneiimptiou  in  thin  favoured  ri't;iiin,e!(|)eeiully  in  it?  earlier 
eUtifif,  by  no  means  the  intractaMi^  diHensc  tlial  1  formerly 
Jound  it  in  London  and  Paris.  After  liflceu  winters  passed 
at  Meiit'>nG,  I  am  aurroundcd  by  a  phalanx  of  cured  or 
Hireett.'d  coustimptioa  eaaea.  Thin  eurative  result  haa  only 
In-eii  attnint^^,  in  evi-ry  instance,  by  rousing  and  improving 
the  orgiinic  powew,  and  jirineipally  thiJW  of  niitritiun.  If 
a  eunsiainjitive  patient  can  bi;  iii>ptviv<,-<l  in  health,  and  thus 
bruutiht  to  eat  and  sleep  well,  ihrtroiit^hly  di;ie*lin!{  and 
asxtniilating  Ibod,  the  battle  is  half  won  ;  and  the  principal 
bcnt'lil  of  tW  winter  climatv  of  the  Riviera  ia  the  assistanc* 
it  givea  the  phy«ioian  iu  attaining  thi»  end. 

Amoii|f^t  the  consumptive  patients  I  have  attended,  llio*e 
who  wvrv  in  the  4'arly  or  even  secondary  stages  of  thfi 


MEDlfALLV    CONSIDRRED. 


155 


drttiifc,  and  fiad  vitnlity  and  const itutioniil  aUmiiia  left, 
huvB  iii<r»tly  (iom-  well.  I  Imvo  st-cii,  in  muny  yoiinp  persons, 
w-t-lU  Ml  .irked  crutle  tut>eiX'uW  dugiiiKitx  dUuppiiir,  gradimlly 
abt>orl)t.-d.  In  various  oasts  of  Bvcid«tiUil  t>litliuU  in  iiiidilli^ 
u^^il,  oi'or-wurki'd  mun,  tlie  amvlioratioD  tiaa  been  still  more 
uiiiun-iit.  1  haw  siuoii  wi-ll-murkud  mvilios  bccoini.-  piirlly 
or  entirely  cii.-atrize(I,  and  ibe  cdnxtilutiuiiul  Hyiniitnuis 
erudtuUy  snUide ;  tbe  g^ner^l  heallb  and  etrengtii  steaddy 
improvinfr.  For  moru  extondeil  inTorniation  rcsiicvtiii;;  tliv 
iunuetioea  of  ttif^  olitniit^!  of  thu  KivKTa  in  piilmonury  von- 
Bumptiou  I  must  refer  lo  mysiHfeiol  work  on  llie  Biibjeot.* 
I  must,  bowcvcr,  \tc  allowed  tnstat«  bere  that  llic  tilWn 
yi'aiV  t-xiH-riiiiw  1  bnvc  Imd  <jf  pidmonary  consumption  in 
tbe  aoutit  of  Eumiii:  hiis  led  me  lo  ttie  conviclign  tbul 
tliere  is  a  greater  pntbubility  of  ibo  diseaae  being  arrested, 
uf  lifb  beiiifT  prolong^],  and  ovon  of  a  cure  bein^  eventually 
ctfeuted  if  tlie  palient  odd  winter  in  llie  south  tliKii  if  lie 
reiiiuins  all  tvint«r  in  tlie  north  of  Europe.  I  certainly 
have  infinitely  more  conlidenee  in  and  reliance  on  the  value 
ol  n  «int«r  residence  iii  the  south  than  I  bad  6it«cn  yc-irs 
ii;;o,  when  1  fint  lell  Enj^Und  for  the  winter,  n  eonrirnied 
invalid.  As  m  |iriicti>iti^  phyMciini  in  Ijondon,  1  hail  not 
seen  the  ^lood  results  from  winteiiii);  abroad  thai  I  have 
eincc  cxpcrioueed  and  u-itncsscd  at  Mentono.  The  c\(i1an»- 
lion,  however,  to  me  in  obvious.  Fuur  out  ol'  five  of  my 
fririner  putientti  and  friendii  evidently  committed  all  kinds 
of  mistakes,  against  wbiih,  from  ivant  of  eitpenencf,  I 
omid  not  guard  them  as  1  can  now.  Tbuy  travelled  about 
lor  pU'iiMuru,  Mhen  lliev  oii^ht  to  have  cuiisiilervd  thetn- 
Mjlvet  Gunftrmed  invalids  on  the  brink  of  the  Ktave,  and 
have  rotnaiuetl  stationary-.  Tliey  often  took  up  their  iibod« 
iu  lar^e,  dirty,  fevcr-|>oisoiied  Fotithern  Utwnt,  more  occu- 
pied in  giij{i)t-MTing  than  in  hi-alth-^eekin;;,  and  constantly 
expii^  to  roaur  peinli-iuUH  inliiienees.  U  it  extiaordinury 
that  thoy  sboofd  generally  have  come  Ukek  as  bad  as,  or 
uvun  worse,  Uiud  when  they  sturbed  ? 


*  "  Od  Ili«  Truktiasnt  of  Putinonar^  Consuaivtioa  l>v  Hy^ene, 
(.'hiiinte,  anil  Mcdidoo,  in  it«  ccmaoxion  vritli  Modera  DoclniM*." 
B^  JoiiiM  lInHr7  Ucoinel,    ^o<l  edition,  1H71.    London;  CbarcbiU. 


156 


THK  BTVIRRA    AND   MRNTONE 


Tho  mpst  aati^rnctorjr  cases  that  I  have  witneeBed  ha 
been  tlioee  id  which  climate  has  not  been  alouo  relied  od,  ii 
whicli  the  patient  has  Ueon  iimlur  constant  and  juilidomj 
medical  muna^mont,  in  which  the  rxtutinu  of  daily  lift 
has  ht-en  guiiled  by  medical  exiMvicnue,  and  in  wliiclt  the 
vurioog  thfriipeutical    resniircue    that  our  improvcil  know- 
ledge of  phthisis  gives  the  profc-Ksion  hivo  been  aleadtlyl 
I II- nil v<! red   in.      I'ulienlx   left   to  thetn«tlves,  or   to   niletJ 
laid  down  for  thuir  ^uidnnce  at  homL*.  commit  all  kinds  of] 
errora.     They  coiistimlly  omit  to  do  whut  they  ought  to 
do,  nnd  curried  away  by  llic  exam]>le  of  others,  or  by  the 
lirst  dawn  of  improvement,  ilo  much  that  tliey  oaght  not! 
to  do. 

In  some  imttancn,  even  of  tulrnnced  phthisis,  in  whichJ 
tlitrt!  in,  from  the  fimt,  but  liltio  rhum.-)^  of  rwiovery,  thej 
invalids,  Borrounded  by  dear  friends,  are  so  charmed  with  J 
thf  sunshine,  with  the  foreign  scenery,  and  with  tho  vcgo-J 
tntioii.  that  it  more  thnu  compensates  for  all  their  liitigutiS.J 
Indeed,  I  have  known  them  r^yoicc  U}  I«  under  the  brii^ht] 
sky  of  (he  south,  even  in  the  midiit  of  ^reut  physical  triiils.j 
To  Eueh   siill^rera,  admirers  o{  the   picturesque,   mcnljillyl 
alive  to  the  benutifs  of  nalurc,  to  the  ti^ory  of  Ihc  unit  duilyl 
cnrveiing  in  a  bi.ixi:  ^>i  li<^ht  thr»ii-^h  the  beaventt,  to  Iha^ 
beauty  of  the  "evcr-chiiiii^in^"  ftesi,  to  the  shadows  on  the 
mountains,   the  quiet  repose  out  of  doora  nil   hut  daily 
enjoyed  mukcsampleamendii  forthcsacrificcsofcxilc.   Tltey 
descend  the  valley  of  the  shiidinv  of  dt^ath  rejoicing,  nor  can 
tiny  one,  in  their  case,  regret  Ihe  fatigue  encnuiiterod  in  the 
journey  from  Kn<;l;)ud. 

Persons  sulfeMii^  from  pulmonary  consumption  nhould 
oIbo  be  onutioned  a(;aiiist  trustinfi  to  the  lidli«  and  delu- 
sions of  homdvpiithy  and  of  othiT  niodi-ni  fuUacies.  They 
■hould  ever  rcinemher  that  they  are  liibourin'j  under  n 
diniease,  curable  in  xomu  nufv»,  but  ut^iially  faLnl;  from  a 
di«ra»e  that  is  still,  with  all  our  imprvivements  in  medicine, 
a  verdiol  of  dvaUi  to  n  large  pvopurttun  of  tliose  whom  it 
attacks.  U  it  not,  therel'onj,  tempting  Providence,  throw- 
ing life  away,  abandi'nin<r  the  lai't  clinuee  of  i-eeuvcry,  to 
di»<uird  tho  experience  of  ages,  and  to  entrust  life  to  tlie_ 

Vtiown  profeeson  of  doctrines  which  every  mastcr^mii;  "' 


UBDICALLY   CONSIDEBED. 


157 


irope,  en|{sg«d  in  the  etmly  and  practice  of  tlic  mcdk-al 
proforion,  prouoonces  itiisaiH-  ilulii-->iiiii«,  tn  my  tht!  U-asl '( 

Muiiy  |ieNOM  who  have  ulwayg  Hitirered  riinn  lironchttis 
ill  England  are  qnite  free  from  it  at  MenLonc,  owin;;  pro- 
bitbly  to  tlte  dryness  of  tb«  ntmooplicTc.  I  luiv«  an  old 
frientl  at  ]N'ic«,  »  Ijoiidon  pliytiicuu,  now  abovo  eJxiy,  who 
Dlwndoiied  ^london  fimiiy  years  agu,  owin>;  to  ri?peat«d 
sttacke  of  winter  brunchilM,  which  lit  lii»t  \v.i\  to  very 
eerioiw  oomplicutioitx.  llo  itixdc  u  wint«r  KutilL-inent  nl 
'Hkh,  Hiid,  ever  since,  tins  there  passed  the  cold  eeason, 
perfectly  fre«  from  aU  brouchiul  miecltiei',  and  in  flourisliing 
'  tieollh.  In  ei^vitnil  in»tnntie«  of  thin  deMtiptlon  with  which 
1  am  aninainted,  Uie  attempt  to  once  more  spend  the  winter 
ill  Kii;;land  has  been  attended  with  a  return  of  tiie  bronchial 
afli-etioD  with  its  luual  Mvcrity. 

In  one  avc,  utlendcd  during  my  fir*t  winter")!  iiojourii 
in  tlto  south,  which  1  quote  a»  illustrative  of  what  climate 
■lid  persoverai]c«  may  aivomplieh,  a  tfentleman  a;^d  forty- 
three,  with  softened  tubercles,  who  b«<l  tuH'cred  fmm  chionic 
1aryn(rit(i>  and  bruiichilU  for  nearly  ihri'c  ye4in>  iu  En^bitid, 
]u«t  all  coui;b  and  Uiyngeal  irritation  al\er  two  winters' 
renidonoe  at  Alcntonc,  and  bos  had  no  sorious  return  of 
disease.  In  his  cnw  pbthif^ix  (oIIowmI  jxintuviTin^i;  attempt* 
to  gi;t  rid  of  giHil  in  the  chronic  form,  supervening  on  a 
firt>t  aciitv  attack.  Kxercise,  and  a  rather  low  diet,  were 
evidently  cnrri«d  too  far,  and  continued  too  long,  coQ- 
Hiilcrini;  tlvu  urduouit  nalure  of  profuuMtonul  itunuitd.  This 
jiutirnt,  who  got  rid  of  gout  merely  to  fall  into  tubercular 
oachexia,  ia  now  quite  well,  and  shows  no  external  evidence 
of  thii  past  diEcJiiic. 

It  i»  viixy  tit  uiidenitnnd  that  a  dry,  braciiii^,  cool,  invigO' 
rating;  elininte  audi  an  1  have  de»cribed,  should  Itave  s 
hi-neliciiil  iiitUieiioe  on  the  rcspinitorv  mucous  membraDe  of 
inrwiiis  who  hiiVB  still  some  of  the  vit*l  pinvcr  of  youth,  or 
Hiine  conslitiitionalstiiiniiia  left.  When  we  add  to  this,  all 
but  daily  i-xerci^  in  Uio  open  air  throu^iout  the  winter,  in 
the  midst  of  magniliceiit  eoenery,  removal  from  thu  carvs, 
auxii-ties,  and  dutios  of  ordinary  life,  pleaMint  KOvial  int«r- 
oiune  with  rillow-^nHVivrN  and  their  families,  all  tnitcd  to 
ihw  sain«  uni«on  of  cbeerful  and   hopeful  R-si^iatioD,  we 


158 


T1IB  RIVICRA   AKD  HEKTONB 


ovrlninly  Imvc,  united,  tlie  liygicuiv  mllu<*noft«  tiiOeulaled  tol 
reiiuvule  the  ^i^nvral  health,  and  thus  to  nrrest  tlio  d«velo|)- 
tnent  of  tuliereular  dieouep,  Indeed.  I  iiin  linnly  oonvinwd 
that  n  wBrmcr  und  niildi-r  winter  irlimnti-,  only  to  h«  fmmA 
in  u  Inipii^al  or  iii.-mi-lT(i[>k'ul  region,  U  li-tts  ravoiirahti-  to 
tlio  recorery  of  heullh  in  chtooio  dieet  disease ; — providi^J, 
however,  rigid  nttviitiitn  be  paid  to  tht-  precjiiitionK  ncKvrfary 
ill  n  r«gion  where  tho  tetnptruture  vuriiw  so  ooDKtiinlly  im 
it  dacM  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterrnnean.  Heat  and 
innisture  debilitate  and  relnx  the  economy:  m ode rnt«  cold 
and  a  dry  atmosphere  invigorate  and  Hlrcnglhcn  it. 
In  tht!  tjealment  of  phlhiiiis,  the  renovaiion  o(  tho  con- 
i>titiitio»al  lowers,  of  the  general  health,  is  of  primary 
imports  Hue. 

Chronic   bronchitin   doe»  well,  m  we  have  wen,  tinduf 
jiidiciuUH   mfdical   inanaj;:enient.      (ieiicrally   sneaking,   it 
gradually  dies  awny,  provided,  also,  the  patient  do  prucieDt, 
'ey  hytjifliiio  and  medical  rides,  and  do  not  make  a  stovo 

hulhuuse  of  the  room  wht-re  he  or  nhe  liv«s,  day  or  night, 
'y    fulling   into   this  1att«r  t-rror,  lis  nearly  all  from  tlra 
north-east  of  Kurope  do,  it   is  c|uit«  pocsilde  to  make  ft. 
northern  elimntc  of  Mi-iitnnc,  and  to  fall  tVom  one  cold 
into  iinothor  thruughont  Uiu  entire  winter. 

The   form  of  asthma  which  is  connected  with  chronia 
br'>nchiti)<,   llio  emphysematous  form,  also  does  well.     As 
its   gravity   dopend"   on    the   hn)nchiti«,  if  the   lattur  is 
improved  sn  in  the  asthma.     I  bi-licve,  indeed,  lliut  many  of  ' 
the  pitiahle  snfferere  who  pri>*nt  this  on m plication,  ami 
who  every  winter  get  worse,  with    the  vista  before  them  at 
home  of  inevitable  aggravtition   of  their  tltHcase,   might 
attain   all    but  entire   freedom   from   ehiuit   siilTcring    bj  < 
passing  eeveral   successive   winters   on   the    Uivieia.     Toi 
them,  in   reality,  the  henlth  tjinstion  is  as  important  as  ill 
in  to  the  eoiiMimptive.     Thi»  form  of  nsthma  gradually 
leads  to  death  iu  those  who  are  advancing  in  life,  and  that ' 
through  u  eliige  of  great  suffering.     The  heart,  the  liver, 
tho    kidneys,    ollen     become    secondarily   congested  and 
ikJ  demth  is  the  result  of  the  combined  inflnenoa 
rions  secondary  maladies.     In  corrolioration  of 
tut,  1  mny  mentii^m  that  1  have  kiiuwn  si^veral 


JIKDICA1.I,Y  oos'smFmBa 


159 


ini'timcca   of  puti«tiU   iirriving  iit  Munlonc  iii  al]   l>ut 
(lyiii);  state  fmm  chruuio  bronchitis  and  netbma,  who  h«v 
)t;rii(ItiaUy  rallied,  aiitl  eveutiully  attainmi  n  very  brambla^ 
(.-ooditton. 

I  uinitot  say  Uiu  same  o!  the  opnBinodic  form  of  nuttima, 
t\i«  furui  thai  OL-cura  ill  diildliood,  in  middl«  ajjis,  at  any 
p^rioil  of  lilV,  appnroiitly  fi-om  iktvohs  causes.  I  hav« 
Uiiinvii  Hudi  cauva  do  wi-U,  Wt  the  inttjority  i)n  not.  I 
iii^uume,  that  the  climuU;  is  tiio  dry,  loo  st  iron  la  tin;;,  and 
]  km  indinml  to  think  that  n  tnoU'or  climatv,  siK-h  am  th:it 
of  Pail,  Ajuvdo,  Palumio,  Alf^ii^ra,  ar  .Mad<-ii'a,  woiM  bo 
muK  Vikviy  to  aiiic,  I  do  nut  say  tliat  persona  nufTifri'ii; 
IVoiii  ncrvtMM  asthma  Kliould  nut  try  Afetilonc,  li>r,  a^  1  bax'a 
sUtol,  1  have  known  th»e  ca*m  do  wdt;  hiil  I  think  iti 
wiHil<l  Im!  iinimideiit  for  sucli  ii*iti«nts  to  make  a  rt-guliir  fix 
mocitbs'  winUr  ^ultlumcnt  buroiv  tryiite  whothi^r  it  siiita 
llit-m  or  not.  This  remark  N{i|>li(«  e^iually  to  othiT  and 
dilTL-ronl  dimutuH.  Kvrvoii«  anUima  is  so  i-apriciouB  a 
A'meiuui,  no  much  under  the  iiiDiiuneu  in  itit  manirt^Lntion 
(jf  hidden,  obscure,  nvrvous,  and  met^orolni^ii-al  cnnditinns, 
thut  it  is  iniponiblu  to  toll  buf'irchand  ivh<rtbi'i-  a  locality 
nill  igroe  or  not.  Th«  W-ft  plun,  tlwrvlorc,  m  Ui  go  Snt  lo 
an  hotd,  and  t*>  tie  ^uidL-d  l>y  ro^nlu. 

I  would  mcntiiin,  ttiat  to  some  asthmatic  persons  t)je'| 
Run-  tWl  ol'  living;  nvar  tliv  «^a,  or »  few  btiiiilird  yarda 
Ihim  it,  may  maki'Mll  tliu  diircrencu  bi^twtion  Hivcre  enflV-nnjj 
or  jicrfect  immunity,  and  conversely.  At  M«nlone,  Uiere- 
fiire,  Ixitli  situationii  shonld  bu  tried  in  case  of  need,  I  have 
Mh(>ervfd  thiil  nruriy  all  )i<:niotiM  who  in  England  are  ill 
when  living;  ■<■  iminediiit«  pioximilv  to  llie  »r.i,  at'["^'=*<'  ■>''"> 
to  suiter  at  Mentune.  1  should  therefore  advine  no  mich 
pereoi)'-  lo  Hcttle  then;  tin!i.-)«  tbcy  c:iu  otitiiti  one  ol'  tl>a 
huiineit  built  awny  fiviin  the  xuu.  'to  live  at  Mentono,  in  a 
lar|j;u  proportion  of  the  houses,  in  rtiullv  like  living  on  (thin- 
buard  ;  for  most  of  tttoec  tiral  built,  and  nearly  all  the  holeU, 
lUTv  Mt■lall^d  on  or  nwir  the  biMeh.  Within  (he  lnKt  fciv 
yiairn,  hoWi-v«r,  a  nnmbcr  of  vilhw  have  been  eri-elml  al 
■omo  dislan<v  from  the  sea-shore,  within  the  omphithoal r«r 
iw  also  two  hotels,  the  Motel  du  l^iiivre,  and  the  Hotel 
Boati  Si^onr.     To  dteet  cai^s  in  general,   Uiu  pruxinuly  of 


IGO 


THi:   RIVIKBA    AXD  rtENTONB 


theim  i«,  I  tliiiilc,  dccidmlly  Wnelicial.  Sea  voyifccB 
iiiiiverully  reoanimendcd  iit  eiicb  disease*,  *ni!  neiirly  «!! 
Uio  saniUm  for  the  consumptive,  stich  osTorquuy,  liourae 
mouth,  Ventnor,  Miilii;^u,  iind  Fiiiieliid,  in  Kliidi-ira,  a(u  on 
the  aea-coiist.  Indeed,  salt  is  UtidL-d  by  some  luodrrn  |>liy- 
eiciane  ns  a  panaccii  [or  plithisis.  ^Mii-n  the  sea  beats  on 
the  short;  at  MvritontT,  \\iv  xpinv  it  thrown  inlnnd  in  Uie 
)ihu|>e  of  a  tin«  dunt-like  vapour,  wliich  extends  fifty  <>r 
urei)  »  hundred  feet  fi'ooD  the  beach,  and  must  be  inhaled 
by  those  who  liv«  in  the  house*  ttint  hue  the  shore.  The 
air  coming  from  the  >ca  in  undoubtedly  the  pureitt  and  most 
wholesome  w«  ean  possibly  bmthe. 

There  is  another  clasis  of  patients  who  do  not  appear  to 
bcnclit ,  .1$  n  ride,  by  the  cUuiulc ul.  Mentone— lhoi«!  sulTeriDi; 
fi'om  the  more  s>:^vere  Ibrma  of  apasmiidio  and  iiUermitteDt 
neuralgia.  I  presume  that  the  dry,  keen,  cool  air  of  the 
north  Med i terra neiin  coust  in  giencral  ia  too  stimnlatini*  for 
such  cjiBcs.  In  on«,  ihnt  of  a  lady,  a  former  patient  of  my 
own,  nlioni  I  had  Hent  from  Kn^luiid  un  account  uf  age 
nidng  lie,  which  tii«ual1y  lasted  all  winter,  and  who  bad 
been  free  the  fir^t  year  at  PuUrmo  and  Niipli-s,  the  tic 
rdiirned  with  itn  uwual  violence  ut  Moiitone,  iitid  liut«d 
MvvernI  month»,  aa  it  would  have  douo  in  Kn^limd.  During 
mibecquent  winters,  passed  at  Naples  and  Malts,  this  patient 
bus  again  purtially  csospod.  In  ottiut'  Uvs  Kl'ven^  canes  I 
have  known  the  ncurnlgio  attack,  a]>|>areutJy  roused  by  the 
cold  dAys,  long  to  resist  medical  treatment. 

I  mu«t  odd,  huwever,  that  in  some  instonces  patients 
liablfl  to  neuralgia  huve  cvnipliti-ly,  or  all  but  completely 
fsca]>ed  from  their  ubuoI  enemy  during  the  entire  winter. 
It  appears  to  ni"  that  these  favourable  cases  occur  mostly 
iu  I  ervouN  mert^lv  liable  to  oenrul(;iv  pains  in  eonniJxion  with 
derailed  digestive  and  eonHtitulivtiid  ittjitpiE,  the  unfuvour- 
iiblc  ones  in  persons  suflVrinf  from  neuralKi^  in  ite  mora 
nilgrravaled  form,  n  vvry  didicnlt  malady  to  dcid  with 
any  locality  in  any  diinute. 

To  those  who,  without  having  any  {lartienlar  ailment^ 

k,  ailing,  dyi^pcptic,  lieluw  par  indeed,  and  who  want 

iiig  and  bracing,  I  liuvc  lound  the  climate  very 

IS  n  winter  residence. 


I 


MEDICALLY  OOSSIDEURb. 


161 


: 


I 


To  weak,  sickly  cliililreo,  ihe  duily  ituiMhine  und  out- 
door life  are  ineelimable.  KacU  winter  I  see  many  delicate 
children  rally  in  n  moet  marvellous  nnd  trnitiryin<;  mnnner, 
lustvttd  of  nufiV'ring  from  cuUrrlml  iifreclions  >»•  i"  "o  ofWn 
Vae  case  at  home,  lliey  seem  to  enjoy  a  happy  immunity 
ttoio  the^e  silments.  Constantly  out  of  doore,  in  tlie  sun- 
'•faiD«,  tti«y  Hoon  broomo  mrenoug  for  footl,  eU-cp  well,  and 
gi-t  fat  iHid  rijHy.  It  i»  the  very  c]im«tu  for  •trumnii.i 
children  uhn  generally  lont  ground  durinf;  our  Ion;; 
northt-m  wiiitcra.  Climate  nlone,  however,  must  not  be 
tnuted;  ffuod  food,  plenty  of  air  day  and  nigbt,  and 
judifiiouN  medioni  tnuilmeiit  if  required,  are  meotiiil. 

The  very  f-j;pd,  like  the  very  young,  aeem  to  thrive  in 
the  mild  winter  i-limate  of  Mentone.  They  can  get  out 
conntiiiitly,  either  on  fnut,  tn  Itath  or  donkey -cbairii,  or  in 
earriujiiii,  iniit«ud  of  hi-in^  cunlSiied  to  thi;  houxo  for  months, 

is  olten  the  ease  in  Ktigland.  Moreover,  they  are  never 
exposed  to  extn>me  cold,  so  fatal  to  old  age.  In  Kngland 
a  ehiirn  frost  kills  the  aged  «a  it  kills  Hies  in  autumn  ;  the 
blotid  lit  driven  internally,  and  fntal  eongcfltions  of  the  lungx, 
])nin,  and  heart  occur,  or  Ftill  more  fatal  inflummutury 
siTeeliiins.  All  these  danf^'m  are  escaped.  Instead  of  the 
Cold  eaet  winds  of  the  sprintf,  which  yearly  fill  the  obitu.trie«, 
tbkra  is  n  truly  genial,  balmy  spring,  tlio  spring  of  the 
poeta. 

The  Riviera  clima(e,in  ita  more  sheltered  regions.is  equally 
propitiiitiB  to  those  suSerini;  from  disease  of  the  kidney  : 
congii'tion,  ulhuniiiiuriit,  gravel.  The  dryness  and  niilduese 
of  the  almosplieTv,  by  promotiii<j;  cutiineous  trunitpiration, 
relieve  the  kidneys  as  well  as  the  lun^j^e — for  in  our  climate, 
Ba  w«  have  sren,  the  kidneys  have  aUo  extra  work  to  do  in 
winter.  Moreover,  the  power  of  living  in  the  oiten  air,  and 
the  tmprorement  which  follows  in  the  general  Health,  \s  of 
u  great  importance  in  these  diseases  as  in  chest  nfTcoliuns. 
I  have  met  with  many  very  rcmarkahlv  ease*  of  improve- 
Bient  and  even  of  cure. 

One  important  rearon  whv  the  climate  of  Montonc  and 
the  Itiviera  is  beneficial  in  all  these  rorms  of  dlMilK  ia,  that 
it  isMildom  or  never,  at  theanmc  t\mt,coltl  and  mt.  When 
the  weather  iu  cold  it  ia  witli  nvrlli  winds,  and  Uic  air  i^ 


162  THB  RIVIERA    AVD  MENToyE 

dry.  When  the  air  is  inoi«t  touth  wiatls  prevail,  *aA  the 
tomp^ratare  w  mild. 

I  hare  U>tt|{  remarkn]  id  Enslam]  that  coMn  in  tbe  ImmI, 
•ace-throats,  altaclcf  ot  Lroncliiti^  and  inflyenu,  onlr  biroine 
pgnrralcnt  wki-ii  Dm  wMlti«r  id  ImiIi  cold  bikI  wet.  ('<iM  dry 
wcfltlxT  nloiie  ilries  not  proiiucu  thi-m  rg.idrmicftlly,  nor  d»«« 
mild  damp  wcathor,  IIou-«virr  wH  itnd  ibmp  it  may  b«  in 
Kngland,  or  in  tUt  ntidvt  of  tlie  rain  and  mi*i9t  orth«  ireat 
cowl  of  ScotUnd,  «»  i'>u^  aa  a  eunimer  t«mperatun9  Uitta, 
and  tb«  therawmeter  w  at  or  above  BU*.  v<rrv  fvw  cold«  are 
BMit  with.  IiL-t  it,  however,  (all  to  40*,  45',  or  even  nu°, 
■ml  lb«n  damp  or  wvt  wi-nther  is  imntedlatelir  follovritl  hjr 
thf  devfh'pmcnt  of  i-al^rrhid  disiease  on  a  l.ir^«  scale 

Ind«vd,  rainy  wtriither,  u-bi.-i)  Uie  tJii-nnoinetcr  is  not 
below  55''  Of  atiove  65",  nijjlit  or  day,  i*  not  injuriotis  to 
health.  Tlic  cool,  ruinv  Hnmm<M^d  wbicli  we  somctiniiti  have 
in  England,  and  which  cliaraeterixe  th«  west  coast  of  Scot- 
bad,  are  healthier  than  dry,  warm,  line  Bnmmvrs. 

Thus,  Ihi-  summttr  of  1 86U,  one  of  the-  miwt  miny  known 
for  many  ycat»,  wuk  alMi  one  of  th«  hi'dlttiit-xt.  In  I  Sf,]  it 
rained  all  hut  tnc<-!imintly  on  the  west  coast  of  Svullisnd, 
from  the  middle  of  June  until  the  middle  of  8ept«nil>cr. 
Dnrini;  the  summer  qiiartt-r  the  ruults  of  observation  at 
lilVy-live  stati«n»«f  tho  ^iHcorohfgical  Society  showwl  that 
the  niinl'aH  vaa  15'G4!  inches,  imitcad  of  8'NO,  the  average 
of  ihn  pTrviou*  yoiire,  and  yet  thu  srason  was  unusually 
bmlthy.  Thti*  the  mui-tidily  nine  1J5  dfnths  in  every 
10,VU(}  porsuns  livinit,  whiltit  iti  Kii[;luiiit  it  n-u»  [99. 
Tltero  wuB  tliu  u«nal  dilTcrcnce  between  the  town  tiiortalitr 
and  that  of  the  eonnti'y  : — in  the  luwus  it  was,  in  ScotlauJ, 
Ht\  in  every  lO.OOO  ]>ers<>ni>,  in  Knj;huid  HO;  in  the 
eountry.in  i^cothind,  142, in  Kngland  lis.  Thme  data  are 
IjiIccii  from  the  qnaitcrly  report  of  the  Registrar-Ueneral. 

I  wuH  rcaidin);  or  travelling  on  the  we«t  coast  of  Seotland 
durinir  (ha  ^rrat^r  part  of  iliia  cjuarter,  oa  »n  invalid,  and 
'"""■•■I  ti»it  llie  tenipi-ralitre  kept  between  ri5°  and  CJ°.  1 
'  I'viT  hiiind  it  either  ahgve  or  below.  1  observed 
inv,  nl*o,  BB  on  nievious  visite,  all  hut.  univenal 
ty  from  vulHrTha)  atTcclions,  colds,  or  coughs.  I 
B|>ent  the  day  fishing,  ot^n  nndcr  an  umbrella, 


J 


MEDICALLY  CONSIDEKED. 

in  II  bmt  on  the  IouIim,  iukI  nvver  oiwc  cantrht  the 
«lii{l)ti»l  coll),  ultlioiigh  very  liubte  lu  do  so  in  ii  lower 
t«ia|)t;niture  it'  there  is  the  Iwist  dLiraji.  In  KuKlaixt 
the  siimmvr  vriiE  much  drier  miii  wuriiifr  thiit  ycttr.  Ilcxvy 
tain  DO  <luulit  neU  Ijcnvtiutiilly  iii  dourin^  ibt;  ulina)i)>lii;r«.-, 
the  earth,  unJ  tlic  dMitis,  ol'  putnrawQt  matter  nnti  ut' 
miasmaWi  espocifllly  when  rain  lulU  in  grc^t  <iuaiititi«8  in 
B  short  timi.*,  iw  in  Wiiriii  cliniiitvu. 

Un  thtf  otIiiT  liaml,  cuiitiiiiivJ  raiu  ami  (lump,  with  n 
teniiwratura  at  or  abi>re  TO",  Uyynntiimihtm  the  livvr 
nutl  Bkin,  prediiipoeiug:  to  liver  aud  inUixtioal  afieuljoua,  to 
diurrhtna,  hihI  dyscutiiry,  and  tu  cutaneous  dtc«acu8. 

At  Meotune  Uiit  winter  tvinpurature  in  the  vlmdc  is  gone- 
rally  below  CU",  but  the  air  U  usually  dry,  and  thin  i»  no 
doubt  the  reason  caUtnhul  allcctious  are  rare.  \\'henever 
the  weather  is  both  cold  aud  ilamp,  cold«  are  ci)ii};ht  at 
Alifittone  an  eUewhcru,  but  th«y  getu-rally  die  away  us  soon 
a»  the  dry  viin«hinc  returns,  even  il'  the  iliermotncter 
lemaiiu  low.  TIium  who  enjoy  tlie  greatt^st  immunity  are 
ilioee  who  keep  their  rooms  coot  and  well  ventilated  day 
limd  iii{>ht.  TlioM  who  miiku  lar>;c  tires,  whu  eto<e  their 
winilutvH  hermuttisitly,  and  avoid  every  bruath  ot'  air,  luu 
preijiscly  thoae  who  sulFer  the  moat  in  this  respect.  1  may 
itistuDc-e  the  Ucrmans  and  Swi>>if,  wlxo,  acvu»tumed  at  home 
ty  nhiil  every  cn.-viee,  and  to  trtail  the  external  air  us  an 
enemy,  gem^rally  lijllow  the  same  plan  at  ^lentone,  and 
aufltic  accord  iu(;)y. 

Otio  of  iho  most  convincing  proola  of  the  healthiness  of 
Mentone  is  the  "Coeral  alraenett  of  itevcrc  aeeidenlal  diiieuse. 
Ouriu)^  my  htleen  wiuter^  rcHidence  [  have  »een  but  very 
litUo  of  tile  diiivaaea  usually  met  with  m  the  suuih  of 
KurO|M)-~ lever,  malaria,  dysentery,  or  of  any  sei  iou^  iniilady 
attribulitbte  to  exU'rual  e^ini<eit.  IndoiKl,  1  have  been  jiriii- 
cipally  cuuttulted  tir  the  diseases  und  ailments  that  the 
iuvaltds  brongfat  with  them.  This  is  thv  more  remarlcabk 
when  we  oonsiiii-r  that  m  many  lar-^e  ooiiiiueotal  health 
towns,  anch  aa  Naples,  Itome,  Malaga,  a  ooDsidorahle  pru- 
[tortion  uf  the  foreign  phyMciune'  duties  oonsista  in  iiltiTndin^ 
tlicir  cuuntjynien  lur  maladies  of  the  aboTtt-aicntionud  eha- 
raelvr, 

H  i 


1G4 


TUB  ni\TRRA   AND  UEifTOXB 


To  derive  tliat  licitiefit,  however,  fioin  the  climate  of 
Mentone,  and  o{  the  south  ol'  Europe  Rpneraily,  which  it 
i»  eapableof  atTordinjDr  in  diseaBf,  nnd  (^Mjiueially  in  pulmo- 
imrj-  eonnimptioii,  the  moot  ri|ri(t  adherence  ahuuld  W  juiid 
to  the  liygieuic  i\i\t*  necvsfory  in  thei^e  regions  during  th« 
winter  eenson.  It  ^muld  never  he  forsotteo  that  in  wiuter 
till*  hpnt  i§  BUD-heat,  and  that  the  nir,  Imrrin^  its  inlhieitct-, 
iif  iisiiiilli,'  ccild.  ^VllrlQ  clothtat  and  wooIU'h  outer  ^ntnu'lits 
should  be  UKi'd.  In  dreBtiD^  for  out  of  duotn,  a  Ihcrmij- 
meter,  jilaced  ouUiite  a  north  room,  should  he  daily  con- 
sulted. 

ThoKc  who  vieit  the  Nouth  Tor  the  Bni  time  oPtL'n  think 
that  6umn)<-r  dothing  only  ia  necetisary,  and  thiit  warm 
clothes  and  great-coats  may  he  discatiled.  1  huve  even 
known  phyt^ii-inns  at  home,  who  should  havu  been  better 
infurnii-d,  Udl  Ihtir  pntienl*  no,  Nnver  waK  there  a  ■;r<;iit4T 
miHake;  summer  clothes  are  iiteleRit  from  IVivmbrr  to 
May.  Those  re(|iured  are  the  light  hut  warm  wuullcn 
elotncB  we  wear  during  our  cold  spri'.ig  and  autumn,  with 
light  over  f>unneiit«.  The  hitter  can  ecldom  he  ulcly  dis- 
pensed wilh,  even  on  the  ninniett  and  warmext  winter  dnyti, 
on  account  oi'  tlie  greut  di0erence  between  the  ninBhiiH!  and 
the  shade.  We  may  take  a  Icscon  from  the  native  {Ecntle- 
mvn,  who,  whenever  it  in  not  ahtinliilcly  warm,  cover  them- 
mIvch  lip  to  the  chin  with  heavy  clouks. 

If  these  roles  are  not  observed,  if  warm  woollen  clothes 
arc  not  constantly  worn,  and  even  watm  flannel  or  merino 
vvtU  next  the  skin,  rbeuinBtic  pains  oltt-n  nllack  thir  ^tron^ 
II*  well  as  the  weak,  and  more  es|>edally  those  nhu  ara 
advancing  in  lil'c.  Indeed,  I  question  whether,  in  the 
aouth  of  Europe,  in  winter,  it  is  not  as  difficult  to  keep 
Tree  from  rhcumalio  puiim  us  it  ia  in  the  north.  The  heal 
of  the  sun  in  th«  day  makes  northfrnerB  thoughtless  iihoub 
outer  garments,  whilst  the  least  expo^iirv  to  the  cool  dry  air 
which  leigns  for  months  may  ho  Ibllowed  with  this  penally, 
Attcndiincu  at  church  is  a  Iruitfu)  cause  of  thcunialiKm  and 
OoldM.  If  the  church  ts  warm,  ]>eople  catch  cold  on  going 
out.  If  it  is  cool,  they  ncurly  all  eonio  inneh  loo  li<-htl/ 
i)  for  sitting  still  a  couple  of  hours  "  in  their  Sunday 

si,"  and  oiUn  ntiirn  home  with  eliarji  pains,  which 


i 


MRDICALLY   CONSIDERED. 


165 


try  to  wccfliint  fur  by  imsgitwry  drna^lits.  I  my««lf  wcur, 
in  all  weullicrH,  a  thick  woullen  Invi-niceei  c.i|ii?,  hucIi  as 
1  should  wtrar  in  Seotlnnd,  and  tbut  throughout  thu  winter; 
it  it;  nn  itilmirxhlti  pirmoiit  for  Mich  ii  climittc. 

ThiM  U-iidi*iicy  to  Hictiiniitiv  piiiiix  i*  tiol  {leuuliar  to  the 
itivii-m.  It  t?xiat«,  in  wttit^^r,  all  uver  the  south  and  the 
e«st,  in  luly,  in  Spain,  in  K^ypt,  in  Algeii;i,  uiid  cvou 
in  till!  TX-tiLTt  of  Sahara.  Thu  JkdouJn  Aralw,  iit  wiiiU'T, 
with  Uic  th«rmomct«r  at  SO'  or  W  in  the  iluytinnf,  nwitlie 
ttit^mix-lvi:^  np  in  woollen  garinctiUi  and  woollen  cloaks, 
fur  rlu'uitiatidin  ia  their  enemy  us  well  as  ouni. 

AltJtouE^h  rhtMimatic  pain?  are  common,  itiouinAtic  fever 
i«  rare.  1  have  Kuen,  it  in  true,  sevcnl  mneit,  hiit  it  h^s 
ulwaya  boen  i^arly  in  the  winter,  in  pentonsi  who  evidently  : 
brou^^bt  the  blood  prediaposition  wiUi  tliem.  The  free 
action  of  the  skin,  in  this  cliuiale,  probably  tends  to  purify 
the  blood  and  to  render  rheiimatio  lever  uncummon.  It  is 
not  by  any  meant  u  fro()ueiU  di^iwc  ainun;;  the  mitivefi, 
althuiii^h  iiiiiiteuliir  rheuin^ilimn,  on  the  contrary,  is  very 
common,  imiii);,  no  doubt,  to  expuiitire  and  to  iiHulKcient 
clotliio^. 

As  tnijrlit  b«  anticipated,  such  n  climate  is  favourable 
to  ^»ut,  and  I  have  known  ninny  ^uty  pcraona  ei\jay  a 
happy  immunity  from  habitual  sulFeriua.  Sharp  ntlacks 
of  gout,  howi^ver,  may  occur  hero  as  eXsewhere,  in  tlioBO 
who  are  liable  l^i  tliem,  espuciatly  soon  after  arrival  fruin 
tiie  North.  The  free  and  constant  action  of  the  Kkin  ii 
favouniUe  to  the  gonty  as  well  a^  to  the  rheumatic. 

The  hours  for  out-or>door  exercii>e  should  be  between  nine 
and  three  or  four,  and  iJie  return  should  I>c  so  arranfTMl 
Q«  tu  iweiire  the  arrival  at  home  before  «iinset.  Italiiin 
physieiiina  ap|>ear  lo  attach  a  myRtcnuna  and  noxious  in- 
tliiL'nce  t<j  the  hour  of  sunset.  In  suuh  a  climate  a§  that  of 
Mctiloiii;  and  Niue,  1  am  persuaded  that  the  dan<fer  is 
in  the  rapid  lowerini;  of  the  temperature  at  that  time, 
whii:h  exposes  to  sudden  chillii,  tlit;  puroa  ot  the  skin  bciti^ 
odvu  open  at  the  time  through  pre>iouB  t-xereise.  Iliie 
Midden  ehill  in  southern  climates  is  no  doubt  alone  Kuliicicnt 
to  produce  lever  of  the  iiitcrmilteiit  type,  without  any 
iiialiirioiut  agency,     it  i*  because  the  same  dan^jer  exisU 


IGG 


Till:  ItlViEKA  AND   HKNTUNK 


uveii  in  mifliW,  i»  possitifi  iicci'lciitnlly  from  tlic  win 
thu  Ntiiidvj  lliul  it  U  iilwiiys  iJt.vi.'eBui'y  t»  bu  ilrL-esud  fur  thti 
latter. 

The  invnitd  should  inhabit  a  eouth  room,  and  not  nnnain' 
Imij^  in  n  novtli  worn  \iu\v»*  th«  wCJitliiT  W  wurni,  nr  uiilout 
it  be  u'urnutl  by  ii  liro.     The  one  ia  summer,  tlie  othvr 
winter.     Wbcii  the  w«at1icr  is  bud,  be  or  ^be  shoiild  maku 
a  gdod  Rre,  iintl  6criipulouHly  stay  at  home  in  ivcll-VfiUilulcd , 
roomg  luitil  it  chan^t-e.     SiinKKJne  and  tvaruitb  aiv  Rirsj 
KQon  to  rcn|>i>(.-jir,  and  tliiii<  to  brin^  tbe  cotilineineiit  to  Wf 
i-lose.     AIUt  »(-(-i<r4]  ilayH  af  oliilly  ruin,  as  alii-ndy  Btated^l 
•lore  Ibroata,  colds  in  tin-  head,  ooiijfbs,  and  TbcuBialiu  pains  J 
bi'gin  ae  inEn-^innd;  but  Uu-n  Ibc  titin  ii^^'aiii  Kbimx,  iind' 
tbcy  MKiinlly  nt  uiicc  die  imay.     All  (linhur  and   uvtrninjj 
purlii's  sbiKild    be  blriL-ily    luibidduii   to   iiivulid)?.     Tliejr 
should  be  in  beluru  eunset,  and  not  Icnve  iiunie  again  uutiLj 
the  fulli-tving  morDtn!;,  thion^^hoiil  the  winter. 

Lin=lly,  exuicifC  and  oul-duor  lil'c  nitiKt  n«1.  hv  carri^  so' 
Tar  u  to  pioduci-  [icrmiiiK^nt  liifsitiiOv.     Mnny  'jf  the  moft 
i-onfirmi-d   invjlidn  Dili   inlu  thin   eiror — oiiu   e^oily  cum- 
niittc'l — owinf;  to  the  yfcat  attractions  of  oul-door  lile,  tc 
the  all   but  constant  fine  weat1i<.-r,  and  to  the  tnjuuvlioa] 
(jcnrndly  niiidi-  to  tiiltc  daily  fXcKi«',  if  p»Ei»iblc. 

This  la»t  ronmrk  iipjiliiv  moru  L'Hpecially  to  fimiiURiptivi 
patieiitH.     Physiial  di-l>ility  ir  a  more  ordinary  accompaui- 
tntnt  of  plitbisifi  thnn  is  (jeiierally  eiippo&ud,  and  when  it' 
oxiclK  much  cxLinov  is  decidedly  pcniidoii'.   lu  Mine  t-aiwiiiJ 
iiidei-d,  warc-vly  any  uuicIm  van  tHtlakun  without  itnpatntie.1 
the  difji'Btion  of  food,  and  thus  producing  »Uepleifiue«s  auil  | 
ixtri'ino  laesilude,  a  lact  not   yciieraily  known,  even  by.J 
]>hyf-ictiini>,  and   diarly  a  result   of  the  organic  caclivxiu 
i'Liiinc<.'t<.'d  \villi  tlie  diKciiKC. 

Uurint:  the  tiltt-en  viintcre  I   have  punned  at  Mi-ntone, 
ctinEtantly  eunounded   by  coneuinptive  palii-nts  labourins 
under  every  etii*;e  of  the  diseiide,  I  huve  bicomi;  iniirc  aiic 
inort  convinced  of  tla-  truth  and  iinpcirtanci:  of  thia  fact^l 
Those  who  do  the  best  are  those  who  aoccpt  their  poeitioi 
cliccrfiilly,  who  tjccedv  entirely  fniin  the  valid  ]>ait  of  th^l 
jHipuhition,  I'lom   their  ainuei-ntciiti:  and  oouiip.itione,  nndj 
are  content  to  lead  a  quiel,  cuutejiiplulivc  exiKtenue.   Uappjf!  I 


MBDICALLY  00NS11>ERED. 


!67 


I  th«y  if  tlioy  can  lind  ploosuro  iu  boolis,  music,  sholching, 
and  tlie  atiidy  of  nature;  if  ihity  cnn  b«  NitiKTiitl  to  Kuend 
ihtir  tiaya  in  Uil'  \-icinity  of  the  house  in  which  tliey  live, 
•111]  to  sit  or  lie  for  houm  bii§kiD^  in  the  sun,  liku  an 
"invjiliduil  liuinl  on  the  wnll,"  followiti;'  i[]i|>hcilly  tlifl 
roedicjl  rulex  laid  don-ii  fur  tJieir  iruiduiieo.  Nourly  nil  th« 
iMet  cases  1  have  met  wivli  hnve  been  ninoiig  such.  Those 
«hi>  huv«  no  metitjl  iveources  in  tbemsulvue,  wh'i  urc  inise- 
rahl«  imloKi  i^ngu^cd  in  iictivc  pureuits,  Ynrt  \ho  wuri't,  huth 
it)  body  mid  mind.  Tlicy  do  not  roii^nedly  nuoept  the 
furred  inaction  tbeir  disease  etitaiU  upon  them,  are  dis- 
coiitcntit]  and  ry8tk-?9,  conat.-inlly  comtnil  impriidencce  for 
the  K^ko  of  uiniiKemcnt,  and  oter-tiix  their  etrrnj^th  by 
eiiiK-itvoiirini;  to  piirtiuipitc  in  the  pleiwuros  and  puniuiU 
of  the  healthy  mid  Htron^. 

A  Ko<id  plan  for  th«  inralid  ia  to  walk,  ride,  or  drive  to 
ODD  of  the  tn»ny  romntitic  rci>rions  ia  the  nei<;hbotirhood-^ 
to  Uocviibruiia,  thti  CuUolo  ridley,  tho  Cup  Martin,  the 
Pont  St.  Lduik,  the  Niw,  or  (lenoii  Ruud,  or,  on  calm  days, 
to  the  )iit:ture4(]ue  roeky  beach — to  take  tho  oushiuiis  out 
of  tbc  cariia-j^e,  if  drivini;,  with  ft  cloak  or  two,  iiud  to 
rutniiin  «itlin;;  i>r  tying  in  the  siitifhine,  in  noin*  »i>«t 
Hhelterv<l  from  wind,  fur  two  or  three  houre.  The  rnuii;e  of 
observation  i»  tliua  ioc-reaaed  without  fatigue,  the  (glorious 
Nenery  of  the  district  is  seen  and  enjoyed  in  iUt  ever- 
vnryinK  ph«e*,  nnl  the  mind  i*  rorrp»ht;i)  by  change, 

On  line  days,  when  the  kca  is  culm,  buulai  aluo  can  be 
h.id  fur  a  suit  or  a  row,  and  air  and  exercise  oUiiined  with- 
out fatijfitc.  Thn^c  who  are  c<|<iil1  ti)  a  sad  and  a  drive  the 
MRH)  day  can,  according  to  tlic  wind,  Mtil  caKt  or  went  idon^ 
til*  oowt  BH  lar  u*  Ventimif^lia  or  Monaco,  distant,  the  one 
seven,  the  other  live  tniW  They  can  tlien  land  and  return 
by  tncmnsof  n  carnage  oent  on  from  Mcntone  to  me«t  thuin. 
Tho  view  uf  the  inuiinljiinif  thun  obtained  from  tbe  sea  ia 
truly  inagnifx.rnl.  Ind<?etl,  it  is  only  from  the  sea,  as  I 
have  iit«te<l,  th;it  the  t;rundeur  of  the  muuntnin  and  ooMt 
scenery  can  be  truly  appreciated. 

With  tho  above  precautious,  tlie  olimBte  of  Mcntone, 
and  of  the  south  of  Burope  tcet)s>^llyi  >b  safe  and  beneticial ; 
witiiout  tliom  it  isunnleand  treachcroua.   Tiiia  is  evidenced 


1G8 


TUB  RIVIBRA   AND  HENTOKE 


l)jr  the  great  winter  moHalitv  of  the  natJvesof  the  Nioe  and 
)lL-nlotK-  <listi-icU,  and  of  ItJily  nntl  Spiiiu  •fononilly,  by 
pnciiinniiiu  iind  pkiiriBV,  two  uf  llic  commoncut  muUdiM. 
Ddiii^  hadly  clothed,  iiuver  making  fitvt*,  and  i^norantly 
hraviiij;  tlie  atniosphflrii;  diaiigee,  the  lower  orders  are 
L-onetnitlly  exposed  to  chdls,  niid  Hucciimh  iu  numhors  to 
tlicsic  discoMV,  treated,  an  they  are  in  Italy,  hy  hlcvding 
every  few  hour*.  I'lsrsiona  in  t)ie  lutter  atjtgea  of  phthiKii 
mom  especially  sufTur  from  the  slighteBt  dereliction  of  tha 
a\io\e  rulee,  wbiuh  they  are  not  always  the  moet  careful  to 
follow.  Indeed,  I  have  no  hi^ilation  in  atiwrting  that  tha 
improvement  of  tiie  plitlii.iiail  intulid  ili^pend.i  a«  mudi  on 
close  altuntioo  to  tliese  iujiinctiotis  us  oa  the  medicid  fkill 
of  his  attendant,  and  that  it  is  the  more  decided  the  mora 
fitithluUy  ihcy  arc  observed. 

One  (^at  advaiitjige  of  the  dryntu^s  of  the  atmcwphere, 
and  of  the  atisenoc  of  suvere  cold  in  the  »i;;ht,  is  that  bed* 
loom  windows  may  he  lelt  open,  more  or  Icbb,  without  risk 
of  anv  kind,  tbroii^hout  the  winter,  and  thus  perfect  night 
ventilation  of  the  bed-room  cim  be  ntlaitied.  This  it.  a  most 
im|>ortuiit  point  both  for  the  sonnd  and  the  uiKound,  hut 
mor**  especially  for  invulidit  and  fur  those  who  are  sulleiing 
from  pulmouary  consumplion. 

Invalids  should  invariably  sleep  in  a  south  room,  w  they 
thereby  innurc  a  mild  and  opiaMe  night  tcm|icraturo 
ihrouij;hi>iit  the  greater  part  of  the  winter,  even  with  tha 
window  open.  The  same  rule,  however,  does  not  npply  to 
tbo«e  who  are  sutmd,  or  to  those  who  have  in  a  great 
measure  rei^overed  heulth. 

In  south  rooms,  satnraled  all  day  by  warm  sunshine,  the 
temperature  seldom  falls  at  niglit  below  from  50°  to  ftU* 
Fall.,  owing,  no  doubt,  in  part  to  the  nidtnlian  of  heat  from 
the  walls,  In  north  rooms,  on  the  cuittrary,  the  tempera- 
ture approximates  much  more  to  that  of  the  external 
atmospiiere,  unless  raised  by  fin.>.  With  the  window 
slightly  open,  it  will  generally  range  from  oO"  Xu  56*, 
according  to  the  eoIdnL-sii  of  the  ni^ht.  This  in  a  much 
more  wholesome  Btate  of  things  for  the  healthy,  as  a 
moderate  degree  of  rold  at  ntght  braees  and  invigorates  tha 
syat^ni.     ']1ic  warm  bed-room  i»  a  debilitating  hothouse  to 


MEDICALLY  CONSIDERKD. 


169 


pvrvoiH  ill  liolth.  Indeed,  a  lower  tomper^ture  Uy  ulgliL 
itiait  by  day  ia  imlicJitcd  l>y  nntiiri.'.  It  im  tWml  iiuccMury 
for  the  wrelt-bflinx  of  plant*  in  all  stoves,  bothousue,  and 
eomwrvittorivs,  nod  was  evideutly  iatiimltxl  by  nii  nll-wiHc 
Pn>vi<lciici!,  w)iicb  only  turned  the  earth  tiiwiird  tbc  huu 
lor  a  |iurtiiiii  •>!'  tbe  twunly-ruiir  li»un. 

In  cuucliidinff  the^e  reinarku  t>»  the  medical  charoc- 
teristicy  of  Uio  Uivieru  climate,  there  is  one  iinpoitsnt  favC 
to  which  I  would  mora  particularly  druw  iittmilitpn.  Cun- 
tinued  and  eurefiil  observation  during  a  loujr  aertus  of  ye>r8 
has  lod  me  to  the  concluoion  that  thi;  beueBt  to  be  deriviNl 
from  a  winter  residence  in  this  faToured  \>xTt  of  Knri>|iL-,  or 
in  any  olhur  Itvklthy  locality,  is  not  always  ol^tainud  at 
(Mice;  sonoetimiu  not  even  thu  llrNt  wint4.'r. 

Confirmwl  invalids  bnn<F  tbcu-  cunatitutioa  with  tliom. 
Ah  the  L:itin  poci  nye — 

"  Omtaih.  noo  aiunuuii,  niutatit  <|iti  trana  tuuro  curruiit.'' 

The  illni^tf  timlei-  which  they  snlFi^r  lim  probably  been  the 
re*ull  of  jtcrnieioui;  inlliu-itce«,  const i t ul ion nl,  liouial,  di- 
nuital,  which  have  Im-imi  ia  iipi'r.ilioii  I'ui'  m;iny  yiMv-H.  Tlie 
ealiro  organization  i»  nnfuvuurably,  inurbiilly  modilied. 
KvOD  if  tint  locality  and  climat«  chosen  are  llio  very  W-st 
that  vould  pouibly  be  found,  it  is  unre:Monal)le  to  wxpcot 
an  imiuediato  or  »udd<.'n  clian^.  Yet  it  is  what  moat 
invalttlH  do  expect;  and,  owing  to  their  ignorance  of  this 
tiuit,  they  olU-ii  foul  disappointed,  and  eipn-ss  thuineelvcs 
w»,  wImiii  time  pomes  and  bul  little  appiircnt  bunelib  is 
experienced. 

In  r\.uility,  in  conlii-ined  progreaui^  diseftK,  not  to  get 
WOrM!,  merely  to  remain  statioiwry,  may  be  eridcnca  of  itiit 
■nooeas  of  tho  meitnK  uKud,  tlie  evidence  of  real  impvovctmeul. 
If  a  lr.iin  is  rusliin^r  furiously  into  some  danger,  and  the 
guard  and  engine-driver  put  down  Uie  breaks  and  reverse; 
tlic  en^iia-,  the  tmin  does  not  litnp  all  at  onen.  U  continuum 
its  proifru-m  for  n  lime,  notwilhiiliindin;^  tbtt  most  judioiuun 
maa  eminent  steps  to  arrest  it.  When  it  ytuhls  to  eooirul 
■t  finb  it  nmaiDs  stutionary,  and  later,  oitly,  bugiiiv  to 
retrace  ilc  stepit. 

So  it  in  in  difiL-iutc ;  ita  onward  progress  Iios  first  to  be 


170 


■niK   BlVlIiBA  AND  SIENTONK 


chvi-lieJ.  Cliange  of  climute,  ihe  removal  of  all  dblnrbiiijf, 
|ifrniciflti6  inllut-DCi^s,  niity  not  apparently  tell  nt  the  iHil>i<.-t, 
ultlKui^lt  tlicy  may  lip  Hli-utly,  <]iii«(ly  exeri-ifing  the  ile- 
biTvd  anil  atiiicipiilfd  inituk'nce.  Tlion  i.vini«K  the  Hltttii'iiury 
period,  aui)  only  later  ntill — in  pulmonsry  vonsuruption  often 
nut  until  the  second  or  third  winter — the  ronlj  unduubtddj 
iinurovi'm4.>nt. 

I  have  wntohcd  nuiiiy  jiiiiTcn're  for  sni-m-sEive  winlpro,  and ' 
hive  thne  bad  the  opiHirtiiiiily  of  juditiiiij  comparatively, 
l.  ii(]iit'Htlonulily  thu  mor-t  palihl'aoloi'y  cases  of  arretted 
imd  of  cured  phlhii^iM  lliiit  I  have  «i-eii,  hnve  Ixeti  umoiig 
thotie  wlio  huve  Imd  llif  imnt^r  and  the  will  to  lettini  ot^uin 
And  a;;ain  ;  who  have  adopled  one  of  my  mottoes,  i-lfeiu/am 
iJif,  "to  be  or  not  to  be,"  and  hav«  clieerfully  mitde  every 
pOMiibli;  yucrifioc  of  lainily  lies  and  of  eociid  posiliuu  and 
duties,  in  order  to  give  ihi^mx-lvt'o  a  fair  ohiince  of  life. 

Thw  health  of  the  native  popuiution  i»  exceptionally  (^od. 
Acooriliiig  to  the  late  Dr.  It.ittirii,  in  lii^  work  enlitled 
"  Meitton  ct  son  Ciimiit,"  this  much  regretted  phyeioian, 
U'lio  had  pnietiscd  more  than  n  quarter  of  a  century  in  th« 
diittriet,  Kay*  that  the  average  duration  of  life  ix  rorlv-llve 
years,  an  avu-rage  liir  above  that  of  the  town  population  of 
tlie  eouih  of  Kiirope  in  jt^ncial.  Ho  also  stutcs  tnat  a  iarjce 
proportion  of  the  older  inhahitanU  of  the  diKtrit-t.  aitiiin  to 
above  xcvenly  ytMit  of  age.  Tliiii  i*  the  mon?  n'markniili;, 
as  the  housrH  of  the  olil  town  are  croudcd,  one  above  ihe 
other,  in  a  most  unhyyienio  manner,  Uiit  then  they  are 
built  on  A  wry  »tcep  acclivity,  bo  Ihat  nearly  all  enjoy  light, 
tiir,  and  £iin»him',  ucitn-ilhslnndin-;  their  citremu  proximity 
to  each  other.  Moreover,  the  Ati-ect«,  althou;:b  narrow,  ant 
■.'iciin,  owin^  t«  everything;  that  can  be  turned  into  manure  | 
I'cin^  earefnlly  pRScrved,  and  carried  off  lo  (ha  mountain 
ti'tracw. 

The  di.4eai>ca  under  which  they  sutler  present  nolbin|{ 
peculiar  beyond  a  tendency  to  scrofula  and  chtorosi*  in  the 
yt'uii;;,  whicii  may  be  alirihuted  to  a  low  vci^etaMe  diet, 
(lout  iH  all  but  unknown,  rheumatic  fever  ran-,  a«  already  J 
atjiled  i  indeed,  it  ia  M-hloni  M-en  except  in  persons  rcoently 
arrived,  alihou;;h*  rouseoliir  rheumatism  is  cummon.  As  a 
^ncrnl   rule,  iDlermitti-nt  and  remitleut  r<Dver»,^tbat  is, 


MEDICALLY  t^OSSIBEREn. 


171 


tnaliimue  fovcre,  nre  all  l)ut  tioknnwn.  A  few  yoavs 
ujja,  liiiwcviT,  fi>r  tw.'n  Kuininors  tlnTc  wcro  miiny  aine*. 
This  iti  a  very  sint^ulur  tiuit,  ilitUuult  Ut  ncoutit  for  on  tliu 
mtinh  tlieory,  as  there  nre  »o  uiui-bIim  i»r  |>lains  whatever  in 
tile  tltt^li'iirt.  Homv  of  the  uses  occurred  In  mountitin 
viib^iM  nui-b  lu  Oriinatili,  perched  ou  the  Toek  viiltt  TOO  luet 
above  the  sea.  Tlio  maniCeitliiliuii  of  iiit«rmitteiit  fever  in 
Euch  a  ioculity  seems  tu  me  n  {irui>)' tliat  in  eert»iii  uloctrieal 
iinti  thvrmDmclriui)  coiiditioiu  of  the  atmoeplieru  thenc 
fevvra  am  he  i^rtieriiletl  witliunt  miiivh  iniiiKnialii,  by  mere 
ohilis,  when  the  etionoiny  U  ]ire<ii>|><>wc(l  l>y  {irevioiif  intense 
lietit.  In  Coi^ioA  and  Al^^eria  I  touitd  intermittent  and  re- 
mittent I'fvor  to  exist  evcryn-lietv,  <>n  hi^ih  mountains  ns 
well  a«  on  plaini<,  ultliough  tindunMidly  iniioh  lecx  frtnidviib 
and  severe  ou  the  former.  It  i*  cerlniidy  Hin>rular  that 
mnlaTioiis  fevers  shoiili)  be  little  observed  on  tlio  Itiviern 
when  they  nre  eo  rifu  and  de.kdly  on  the  oppoeito  cuust  of 
Contica.  The  pruliahle  (.-jiusl*  is  the  equability  of  the  day 
and  nii^hl  t('m[ieniluivs,  but  1  chilli  discnss  thin  quentiun  at 
lenijth  in  anutliL-r  cliiipt<-r,  that  on  ('uniicu. 

The  sick  poor  are  attended  by  jihysidans  and  surneons 
Mppointvd  and  paid  by  the  town  or  dtsLnct,  These  gentle- 
men are  liie  mvdiad  and  surgical  attendants  of  an  liotipitjd, 
erected  in  the  aniiie  ol  the  euHtern  bay  a  few  years  nffo, 

i^dmo^arv  conituuipliun  is  a  rare  mulady  amont;  the 
native  popnlatiou,  llie  deaths  from  this  cjiiset  buiii^  only 
fnie  in  lilly-livu  io'ti-ad  of  one  in  live,  ivf  in  Ijondon  and 
I'aris,  and  one  in  mix  at  (iencvu.  Tluiitc  whom  it  attacka 
are  alt  but  invattahly  people  uho  follow  sedi-ntAry  pur> 
Biiit*.  The  disease  is  nearly  unknown  among  thoBo  who 
work  in  the  open  air.  It  is  a  well  eetablishcd  tlicl,  that 
alUiuu^h  Inbt-n-nlor  diei-niw  is  mure  eommon  in  ('<>ld,  damp 
elimatcs,  like  that  of  En^^land,  Holland,  and  the  noitli  of 
Kraiio-,  it  <-an  be  and  is  <levi.'lo|ii.-d  nnywheie,  by  dek-ctive 
ventilation,  tin;  want  of  light,  bad  food,  nnd  ovenvoik  of 
body  or  mind.  AH  ihefe  cautm  are  uniled  in  many  ol  the 
unhealthy  t«twps  of  the  oouth  of  Knrope,  nnd  in  all  sneh 
eunviimption  ia  more  or  lees  rile.  To  prevent  or  arrest  it, 
nut  only  do  we  re^iuire  u  iitvouniblc  climate,  hut  ul»o  every 
bygieaifl  condition  and  piccaulioii.    Thu»,  in  Naples,  a  very 


172 


THE   RniEEA  AND  MENTONR 


iinliypiei'ic  poiilhcm  town,  tlie  (IcathK  from  phthwifi  arc  ( 
iti  oif^lit;  lit  Mmi«krillc»,  wlieru  llm  liy^jit-nit;  i-ttTulilionii  iiri;, 
or  uaei)  to  be,  utill  woreif,  the  morCaUly  Iroro  tliU  muse  is, 
or  riither  woa,  as  great  as  oug  in  four.  This  fact  will  sur- 
pr!Kt>  no  oiii>  n-1io  bus  rondo  ■  journey  of  discovery  in  thu 
old  ijuurtom,  bcfon;  tlie  Tucent  iin[irov<Mncnls.  The  loww  of 
Marscillfit,  however,  is  being  regenerated. 

Notwithstanding  the  heat  of  the  stimmor,  Hver  aflectionB 
arc  run;,  at--  iiUo  is  <i)s.-nU'iio  cliseaiic.  The  cool  wuttbcr 
of  uiitiimti  iirrivi^  sutrieii-ntly  «arly  in  November  to  check 
the  tendency  to  abdominal  and  intestinal  disease  produced 
by  the  warmth  of  tho  snmincr  and  autumn.  Asiatic  choWra 
Iia«  never  uppcnn-d  nt  Mentone,  n  rather  Kingulur  fuct,  m  it 
has  exereiaeil  considerable  ravages  ou  niovt  other  partR  of 
the  Kiviera. 

Thi*i  all  but  total  absence  of  octuul  dysentery  at  Mentone 
I  a  strong  vvidcnco  of  tlio  bvalthini*«H  of  the  diMtciirt,  for 
lie  suminei'  iind  autumn  hciit  arc  certainly  ijuiu.-  midicicut 
topKdiipoMto  it  were  otbe^  conditions  favoumble  to  its 
development.  Tliere  is,  however,  a  most  remarkable  con- 
nexion between  dynenlcry  and  the  intL-rmitlcnl  and  re- 
mittent  fevcn>  known  ni"  innUiiiniiK.  Thry  are  met  with  ia 
the  same  reg;iona,  and  und>r  tlii;  »aiue  i-cmditiotis,  and 
tppcar  otlen  to  take  the  place  one  of  the  other.  Tlius,  tlio 
general  immunity  of  the  Mentoiiu  dislrict  (mm  mnlnriouH 
fever*  may  be  aaid  to  ex]>lain  it*  gi-neral  imniuuity  from 
djrscntery.  Bilious  diarrhcca,  borderinfj  on  dysentery,  ia 
oot  iiDcommon  in  the  autumn,  especially  wilh  iiivahds  who 
arrive  too  mrly.  The  tn«L  ten  <lays  of  Oi.-lobi.-r  is  i)iiit« 
early  enou^li  for  arrival,  and  the  firiit  wovk  of  M»y  'u  quite 
early  enough  for  departure. 


CHAPTEU  VIT. 

JIBNTOSE  IS  rra  SOCIAL  ASPECT. 

AIII7ftKMX!CT»  -DBIVM— BtOM— rBlir,«Tlll*S  MCDMIOXd— MOVJfTAlJI 

vii.um:>— CksiKO— ciii-KCiiH— socui.  ur*. 

"  All !  what  ft  lifo  wp re  lhi»,  how  swMt.  liow  Ufniy  I 
Uirm  n'lt  thu  liawtbnm  bii*li  a  director  shodo 
To  HlipphrrJn  Wkiiiu  on  liicit  irilly  *hcc)>, 
Thnii  iloUi  a  rk-li  (niibrulJ«rwl  cuDupj 
To  kin^R,  ibnl  fcor  tli«ir  •iil>jecu'  treachwrf 
O  JO*. it  dotK ;  ■  thon*aml-rold  it  doUi.'*— SUAlKnuiz. 

SiNCK  tlic  fir^t  edition  of  this  n-ork  vraa  ptibli^lied,  in  1661, 
MciiloiK-  liaK  ijtiilv  cliiiii^sl  iu  ctintiR-tor.  It  n-ns  then  n 
qiiift  liltld  IlaliaD  town  on  t)i«  aiiniiy  ahure  of  tli«  Kiviera, 
iviti)  two  or  thr«o  small  hott^ls,  principally  used  by  pafsiDj; 
travel) I' fit,  und  bulf  »  ioKit  rvccnlly  eTv«tL-d  vilW.  Now 
it  hait  bi-'cona*  a  well-known  und  ri«(|iii>iitt:d  winter  rcjiort, 
with  tbirty  botela,  foui-  tiin&i  that  number  of  villas,  and  a 
mixed  I'on-i^n  nintor  jiopiilation  of  above  Mxtneii  hundred. 
Many  of  tU&c.  winter  viKitiirs  iiro  invalids  in  search  of 
biiulth,  but  a  turc:6  pn>|)'>rlion  aro  mere  Kun~wor>'bipper', 
who  have  lelt  the  norib  to  bosk  in  the  southern  aunabine, 
or  Imwllcrs  to  or  from  It«ly,  i>lad  to  rpst  for  a  tiina  und«r 
tho  I^moD  and  Olive-clad  bills  of  lowly  Afuntone.  Its  re- 
eotirc«B  for  visitors,  liowever,  are  still  principally  in  pic- 
turesqm)  outdoor  life.  The  ^.-cncTy  is  most  t;rantl  und 
impomig  in  the  mountain  bucU^round,  inont  picturesque! 
And  romantic  in  the  nearer  billii  and  const  outline.  Every 
ravine,  every  valley  is  a  path  of  frrcAt  lovdineeti.  u^cuiiding 
gently  towards  the  bigbvr  ninge  'llie  Uora  in  very  abundant, 
and,  ai  wc  have  aeon,  moat  of  our  garden  spring  (lowers 
(trow  wild  in  great  luxuriance.  I'he  geological  aspects  of 
the  country  arv  also  very  iii»trw;tivp,  and  aflbrd  constoDl 


174 


MKXTOKE  IN    ITS  80CIAI.  ASPECT. 


: 


oocnpAtion  and  ninueemcnt   to  those   intfrcetod   in   eu< 
pursuits. 

Tliv  proat  ini-nluU,  if  i>rii(li:iit,  inoM.ljr  keep  to  the  driv 
and  walka  alun^i;  tlie  seashure.  Tliose  who  are  stronger, 
mounted  on  tiirf-)boti-d  donkeys,  ii»;Liid  the  nDoiiiitiiiii  piithit 
n*  tinr  iii'  tin  ir  Ktrt-iiglli  pi-rniil* ;  whiUl  tho  iutiti>l  iiml  valid 
mfiiibcR'  <if  Ibc  comnniiiity  try  their  pedeslriau  poweis 
l)v  asceuiiiiig  the  hi^ther  mouiit:iine  in  varioue  directions. 
M  iK-ncvt-r  Ihc  eiin  nhines  there  ara  prot«vte(l  v»l leys  and 
*u(iny  nmuiitain  naokl^  wht-rc  at  all  ticiiCK,  ii)  Dtvinihcr 
Juiiuary,  u»  well  as  earlier  and  later,  warmth,  a  <)tii 
alRio^jiherc,  and  Doners  are  eiire  to  be  found.  What  wi 
ilicKL'  o(vii]>utioii*,  l>oci]i«  and  pnpers  and  the  hurTnoiiioi 
itilervoiirite  uf  eoiiotvyit^cii  iinilcil  by  thu  bond  of  cominoi 
ori;;iii,  the  winter  |>;i!wi-s  ph-itsantly  ;  merely  aadileurd,  oci 
eiun;illy,  t>y  the  finnl  dejKtrtiire  ofsume  hopeleea  euft'erer. 

Allhout^li  the-  Menlonitin  ainphitht-utre  if.  limited,  as 
dcKoribed,  it  Ik  sulTicientlv  extensive  to  ollor  all  but  i-ndl«fi8 
cxciimions  to  viKitorf,  ill  or  well,  and  more  w^iccially  U) 
pedeBtrians.  The  protected  valleys  and  bills  are  very  iium«- 
rotis,  !tnd  nitbm  the  reach  even  ot  the  invalid  population. 
Once,  aUo,  tbv  higher  barrier  of  mounttiinii  liiv  bi-en  pooM'd, 
n  perfeet  Switzerland  »peni«  ont  U>  the  adveuturoun  and 
to  the  vtilid  tourist. 

Within  th«  immeiliato  niea  of  the  Mentone  district' 
tJiere  are  other  |M)intic  of  int<-reKt  iicsiJeit  thv  valloye  and 
bilLi.  The  driven  are  very  pietiiretiiuc  and  lovely  in  tlieir 
entire  ext<.'nt,  ami  arenllnithin  the  peculiar  nheltcr  of  tin 
beiditv.  Jbtsy  are  :  ihe  be»titiliil  wtsUrn  or  Nn-e  roiid  to 
Itoccabrnua  and  thoTinbia;  the  eipmlly  boinlirul  t-ai-lerD 
or  GL'iiua  roud  to  Wiitimigliii  and  UonliKben;  Ibe  eharming 
road  along  tho  shore  to  Moniico ;  the  road  to  Uie  Cap 
Martin,  to  its  bold,  broken,  ri'uky  point,  to  the  niina  of  llio 
old  convent  in  the  centre,  and  to  the  telegraph  tower;  ilia 
mountain  pucx  road  np  the  Caret  valley,  which  winds  ov 
tlie  mountains  l.i  SiwpWto  and  T»ii  in ;  and  lastly,  the  rou 
that  letida  alon^  the  C«hiole  valley  to  the  foot  of  the  St' 
Lueia  and  St*.  A|fDcse  mountains. 

The  liist-nieniiuncd  drive,  tbut  to  lloccabrnntt,  TutLIAj 
and   Nice,  boa  already  beeu  deacribed.     It  is  the  road  the 


'I 
d 

J 

1 


BLip. 


DRIVES— TURB!  A — VRNTIHIOLIA. 


173 


be 


Btr£iR:;er  pitesea  alon^  ou  bis  amval  ul  Tklcntnne  from  Nico, 
mill  is  Ko  Dxtiiii'^Itt.-ly  bi-aiitiftil  that  it  {^cneraUy  remaioa  iha 
fiivftiiriUcxc'iirHJiiii,  ovo)  cliiriii^n  r<-j=ii!<.*iici;ormniiy  montlis. 
Two  limm  ure  rviiuirL-il  tu  u^iilly  asuL-iiil  tliu  mourituiii  m<Il> 
IVoin  Mtiritone  to  Turbia,  at  the  summit  of  the  pa's.  Durin;sr 
thu  entire  nscent  thv  mod  U  tlii^roii^hly  shvllvrnd  from  tho 
noi'lh,  iitid  iilcfpotl  ii)  iiiuishiiiL' until  ihi;  sun  iltsiuuntlit  buhiiid 
the  moiiiil.iinB  on  the  wi'Hteri)  lionzun.  Tho  return  onl^ 
takes  one  lionr,  or  one  and  a  half,  nccording  to  paoe.  Thfl 
vitb'^  of  Turhia,  whiuh  crowns  ihc  puss,  is  it  Inndmurl;  iu 
hi^t^iry.  Il  wuh  the  fronlii^r  butwovn  Oiiiil  and  l.i^tiria  In 
tliH  time  of  the  Uoiuun^,  and  ihere  ia  sliil  to  bu  Men  ueiir 
the  road  the  very  inlere^tii)^  rtiios  of  a  tow  er  Ituilt  by  the 
Romuri  i-inpuior  Ati^islus,  nearly  two  thousand  yearx  a<;o. 
These  ruin*  show  well  in  what  n  inniwivi;  Ktyic  aiilitiiry 
woricM  were  constructed  by  tlit:  Itomaiu,  and  ureqiiitt:  worth 
a  special  visit. 

Thv  Gonoa  roiul,  which  skirts  the  coast,  is,  fts  I  Itave 
stat^^'d,  i-(|iiidly  Ix-autil'iil.  It  begins  to  ascend  at  oiira  on 
leaving  the  WJiterii  Ixay,  pUMJn^  iiviT  the  pictiiri-siiuv  bridge 
and  ravine  of  St.  Ijouti^.  Abiiv«  lhi:i  il  is  positively  blat>led 
out  of  the  side  of  the  limestone  rock. 

In  oold  weiithrr,  the  invalid  i^hoiild  not  go  beyond  tlia 
turn  or  hi>;br^t  point  of  this  road,  as  there  i»  a  cold  gurgu 
beyond.     Hut  on  a  tine  warm  clay  the  drive  may  be  j>r»- 

Dgol  alon-;  Ihe  coa^t  to  Vcntimi;:liii,  n  quaint  old  fuitiliud 

wn,  with  a  fiiir-Ki/.t'dMnow-formcd  river,  tlie  Royii,  wliiuh 
i'dcKeendx  alonx  a  {>ietui't-i«<|i>e  and  wide  valh^y  Irum  the  foot 
«f  the  Coi  de  Ti'ude.  Vi-ntim!};!!!)  i*  seven  niilea  from, 
Sluiltooe;  and  Bonli-ihera,  where  the  Palm  trees  are  tot 
with  in  all  tlieir  ^lury,  ia  four  miles  further,  Un  the  rvtum,' 
if  "  imprudently"  made  to^vards  sunset,  a  most  fcluriiiiia 
view  in  obtained  when  the  highest  purl  of  the  roiid  ii 
reached  near  Mentoiie.  The  entire  aniphithuitre  is  beuuti 
fully  seen,  and  ike  settinj;  sun  behind  the  Esterel  mountain! 
reveals  their  sharp  outline",  the  isle  Si,  Mors'icrile 
Cannes,  and  the  ligiitboune  at  AntllieH,  an  dt^tiuclly  us  if 
only  a  few  miles  distant,  instead  of  liRy.  Tbey  are  chithed 
•Im),  in  tbe  most  luagniltoent  ooJoon,  pur|de,  eriinion, 
and  red. 


178  MENTONE  IS   ITS  SOCIAL  ASPBCT. 

"  Ilut  1(1 !  thn  ann  ia  itcttuig;  earth  and  alcj 
OiM  Uuie  of  glory  : 

lie  liii^ro  jtt  i  and  letwiiiDg  to  a  point, 
Kliinva  lil»  thB«]rr  of  hcnvon— -then  withdraw!  j 
Anrl  Inmx  tlin  xt-nitli  to  tlic  ntnKwt  •kirUi 
AU  iH  ooledtiul  rtiil."— BooKH*. 

'Hie  Jrive  to  Monaco,  al>oiit  five  miles  aloni;  the  coast,  nt 
th«  Toot  of  tliG  mountaini:,  is  cprtainly  oni-  of  Ibo  ino&t 
Iwniitiriil  ill  Europe.  It  wimln  uions  tfic  rhorv  ri>llowin(f 
tlio  iiuli'tilationB  of  the  coasi ;  at  one  moment  ull  but  \tvvl 
witJi  the  lieach,  at  another  rlsio};  more  than  a  hundred  feet 
ahovfi  it. 

On  the  land  wde  arc  mumitains,  Hsci-nding  rapidly  mnny 
hundred  foct  uhove  the  itca,  liuur  »ith  iiue,  ront  and  lorn  in 
every  coiit-civahle  fhape.  Sonielinies  huge  i-wlts  ihat  have 
been  riven  iVom  the  parent  mountain  by  iialuri-'e  a;;encieB, 
haii^  Above  the  road  os  if  nbout  1»  fa))  i>n  ihr!  tiuvclhr;  or 
th*^j  have  actually  failun,  leapt  over  it,  and  lie  in  wild  con- 
fn»iu»  umlerncuLh.  In  one  apot,  u-here  an  avalni>ch«  of 
this  kind  has  dpsccndcd  from  on  bij^h,  there  is  a  mclc 
IIS  Isr^v  NS  a  small  houtti-,  arrested  in  it«  downwai'd  prof^ress 
\>y  the  trunk  of  aii  uld  olive  Int.  The  veteran  nppeHiit  to 
be  hruv«ly  endeavouring  to  ntem  tbe  descent  of  itf  enemy, 
und  BO  far  has  succeeded. 

On  thu  Mcditcrrunoan  Kide  are  quiet  coves  nnd  bays, 
where  Iho  v.-Mva  ripple  gently  on  sundy  iH-uehef,  at  the  foot 
of  jaRRed,  capriciously  shaped  ruclis,  eiiveitd  with  pines 
»aa  brushwood.  They  apiK-nr  indescribably  lovely  from  the 
nwd,  and  innpire  the  wayliircr  with  an  all  hut  imitixtiblv 
deeire  to  st<ip  his  progreaa,  in  order  to  hatlie,  or  to  tit 
hienrely  on  Uio  sliorc  watching  the  pby  of  tbe  briny 
ua<CD>. 

Doth  Koiue  to  Monaco  and  returning,  from  early  morn 
to  evening,  this  lovely  road  is  steeped  in  the  jjliwing  sun- 
fhiiie  of  tliv  south.  Being  thus  sheltered  and  in  the  sun 
all  the  nay,  it  e»n  be  rexorted  to  whenever  ihc  tvind  duex 
not  blow  Iroin  ihu  sea.  Monaco,  a  little  town  perched  on 
a  rooky  peninMiln  nil  but  surrounded  by  the  si-a,  is  ilKclf 
very  inleiesting.  IL  is  a  ealm  and  lovely  spot  on  n  (ina 
sunny  day,  with  its  pretty  btlle  poit,  &U   hut   rock-sur- 


k 


d 


DRIVB8 — ^MONAttX 


177 


rounileJ,  olfiur  aii<l  blue,  ciiIivoDcii  only  by  a  fuw  fiahiDg- 
inmU. 

Tlio  r.iilnay  from  Xice  to  Gcoon  has  now  beou  npeii  fur 
si>ntc  tint*-,  t>n<l  »  NtniiU  8t4-»niLT  tliat  iiMtl  In  jity  lietwt^cn 
tiuM  nnd  Aloit.ico  has  ceased  to  run.  Few  n-iti  truft  to  the 
faitlitest),  capricious  deep  who  dtii  ovoid  it,  und  yet  uu  a  finti 
day  it  is  n  most  cnjoynbli:  mode  of  ivocliintc  Nice.  Tb« 
niilwjiy  IVon»  Nico  to  -Mi-iilonc  wn»  a  most  <liffic-ult  nitd  cx- 
])«ii«)vc  tindt-rUikiri^,  and  occupied  sfvi.-ral  yuiini.  It  paMCi ' 
throii(;h  nine  tunnels,  and  sbiits  ilecp  bays  and  indentations 
of  llic  coiml  OD  eoa  walU  and  i.>aii8ewaye,  at  the  foot  q[ 
wliicli  tbu  Nca  brualu  oonwtantly.  Tbc  ovast  is  vcfy  lordy, 
and,  ill  n:y  eye?,  tlie  ntilway,  coiivenioiit  attbongb  it  be, 
ratlier  mars  its  beauty.  Kstuiv  wcms  to  have  been 
wotindvd,  scarrud,  iiibcrl'crcd  with  tii  rviMy  i^cnso.  Sho  will 
tKion,  lionever,  obliterate  ttie  acan  hIki  bun  roUi'ivfd  with 
wild  [iluiitti  and  with  soulberu  verdure,  and  then  we  shall 
pttrhapa  learn  to  look  ujwu  Ibe  line  merely  aa  a  mesBenger 
of  protfivse  and  civilisation.  At  the  time  of  tbe  anm*xii- 
tioii  tile  Frcticli  (iovemniciit  )>rc>nii«e<l  to  eonctruct  a  port 
at  Mvntunt!,  aiHl  is  now  redeeming  its  promise ;  a  pier  ia 
bein^  thrown  out  beyond  the  old  Ul-uocmc  cmtle.  The  latter 
ia  Uiill  on  a  rock  in  the  »eH  at  the  point  of  the  promontory 
on  which  the  town  i(tund:<.  This  pier,  al thou f'h  only  half 
finished,  already  protects  and  improves  the  port  und 
SBchoragv,  and  facditiitm  the  loading  and  unloading  of 
the  vewela  that  oonx;  to  Menlone. 

Mcolone  and  the  village  of  Itoocabnina  formed  n  part  of 
the  prinvi|i«lily  of  Monaco  from  the  i-arly  Middle  Ages. 
Tlio  Princes  of  Monaco  liejd  their  snudi  principidity  ua 
fradiiloriea  cf  Pitslinoiit,  and  idlboii^U  Kwept  away  by  the 
French  Kevolution,  were  recognised  in  their  former  riffjita- 
at  llie  Treaty  of  Vienna.  Their  authority,  however,  wh« 
hnrHlily  cxorciK-d,  and  in  181'^  Mt-ntune  uml  Huccabrtioa 
made  a  umall  revuhiltou  in  imitation  of  France,  drove  Uie 
Prince  away,  and  declared  tlicmMilvcx  indeiwndeut.  The 
happy  independence  thus  gained,  witJi  Arendian  immunity 
from  tiixcK  iir  oontK:Tiplion,  they  enjoyed  untd  ISCtO,  when 
the  Prin<«  of  Monaco  ceded  hit  rights  over  his  revolted 

Ca  to  the  Emperor  of  Prance  for  the  sum  of  1211,(10(1/. 


178 


MESTOXE  IS  ITS  SOCIAL  ABPKCT. 


^lonn<^n,  his  rnitlirul  city  of  eix  Imndred  inhnliitanto, 
rvUiiied  us  tlio  uijnul  or  tlic  diminisht-ii  priuci|NJ 
under  ihv  juriKlictioii  of  Kriinc«. 

Tiiv  old  city  or  Monaco  is  built  on  nn  derated  promon-^ 
bory,  unti   from  iU  advaudn;-  cone: dumbly  into   the   sea, 
heyoQil  ttiu  coiiKt  line,  it  is  rntlK-i'  Lou  inucli  rxpo<^i-<l  to  Iha. 
riitslrni   or    ni>rth-vr<>->t   wind   to    be   nn   agTomblo  wintcH 
residence.      It   wsia  well    linown    to   the  llomiiflH,  is   olU-oJ 
mentioned  by  dus«i<-jil  n-ritcra,  And  liii«  litid  n  link'  histur 
of  ilH  own  throughout   Llio  dark  »nd  Middle  A^ei>.     It 
nrinn-9  have  Iteea  »ma)l  kiuKH  on  their  eea-uirt  roi^k,  iind 
tinve  oilen  vn^cd  war,  iindt-r  the  wiii<;  fitvt  of  one  [towerfut 
(imtrolor,  ttn-n  of  another.     Thp   Sunliniiin«,   the  French. 
■  he  (•vtiix-in>,  hiive  ull    in   tnrn    been   nlHea   or  fot«,  until 
at  laHt  a  ival  nnnexalion   to  France  h&s  taken  place.'     By  a 
treaty  made  nitli  tlint  L-ouiilry,  lliv  uuoToms  and  criminal 
jnri'J|)r<idi>nte  hnve  bi-en  jriirrenderod,  iih  wt-ll  u*  ^fcntonL'. 

'l\e  late  Krvnuh  limperor,  however,  allnwed  the  Friiico  ■ 
Monaco  to  retain  bia  (raining  establish  men  t,  althouj^h  um 
wore    permitted    in  Pmncc,  aiwl  tliiit    when    the  German^ 
(lttk(«    worv    about  to  abandon    thi«    tiourej.-   of    revvDue. 
But  tlie  oriinifOfi,  th«  lemnns,  oiid  the  oil,  arc  nenrlv  gone 
vriih  Monlononnd  Koccabnina,  and  lh«  Piinoes  of  i^IonaGO_ 
do  not  ftiel  dinpoxed,  it  nmy  lio  p^tvtimcd,  to  ubandon  tti 
niuttt)  imputed  to  them  of  old : 

"  Snn  Ikloiinco  soiira  ini  sco^lio 
Noa  Mmino  «  non  mrcs^lio, 
B  pur  uangiare  tokUo." 

The  temptation  uiroided   hy  Uio  liirK*-'  inooinc  derive 
fVom  this  source  waa  too  great  to  bo  withstood,  and  nol 
that  all  lh«  Gerinun  cni^'UK-liouses  iire  aitpprvKxtid,  MonacOT 
ni*:!!!*  tiu|iri'nin  ue  nearly  the  only  gambliQ;;  eslalilinhment 
in  Kurope,  iiud  oerluinly  the  only  unc  uirricd  on  in  ttw, 
princely  «tylu  of  IIombuTK  and  liaden  in  former  days. 
Leblanc,  thi!  priiscnt  l(«scv,  hus  spent  nn  immense  sum 
money  in  bitildini;  a  beautiful  euxino  on  the  niudel  of  the 
one    at    Hi'ntburj;,   several    first-class    hotels,   and    man] 
cleftant    villas,  in   iius  moct    protected   situations.     The 
buildings  hure  all  been  creotcd  in  a  picturesque  spot,  on  tb 


DRIVES — MONACO. 


179 


nETtiid.'  oF  till!  port,  about  haif  a  milo  finm  tlie  town. 
Tiiiid  llic-  ]>niiii(mto]y  on  which  tlie  town  of  Honaea  ii 
Parched  shelieni  the  now  Bumlititig  colony,  in  a  gnwl 
rneiis*ir«,  from  the  noitli-went  witnl,  to  which  the  town 
ibelf  ia  cx(>o*cd.  AL  Lel>Unc  U  spending  I'fpiHy  a  por- 
tion of  his  income  in  iinprovcmctitii  of  every  kind^ 
r'>iul«,  briiljfea,  terravi'^ — and  in  shrnvin"  much  mori?  taste 
in  Un  crfutionB,  and  in  the  aiTaii;;uiHoiit,  of  the  lovely 
IfTUuriilii  urouiii]  tin?  ciii^iiii',  than  the  Alentuiiiaiis  havu 
as  yet  exhihitwi.  Hut  then  hin  mi.'iin''  are  very  fireat, 
for  he  leviea  trihule  oti  u  hr^e  oommiinity,  (liu  gamblin^t 
))o))uhttion  of  Etirope,  Tlic  garden  ia  beDnitifulIy  phinlcd 
iind  laid  out,  ami  ihc  U-i'raci-s  fucin;;  the  »cu  are  covcrvil 
M'itli  KhiiitM  and  tlowt-rii  that  (li>iiriiFh  and  bloom  in  winter. 
Certainly,  under  his  aiii]iit»?H,  Momico  hiut  become  a  fairy- 
land,  and  it  is  lamentable  to  think  that  eo  mtK-h  luvGtiiic»!< 
ithoiild  ori^uiilu  in  nucli  a  gotiroc. 

'i'hc  band  piny*  twicit  &  day,  from  half-pnet  two  to  four, 
and  from  half-pn»t  ei^ht  to  tvn.  It  ia  composed  of  cvvi'nty- 
four  thortiufrhly  gtwil  nuuiciann,  selcoted  from  Qennauy 
and  lUly,  and  discoiiraes  really  "  Bncct  music'' iti  a  noble 
nuii'ioliiill  iir  bMl-rooin.  It  if  a  great  treat  tM  lixtt^n  to  to 
admirably  li'd  and  tto  well-trained  an  orchestra,  iu  this  out 
of  the  nay  {iLiee,  and  it  is  a  pleasure  n-c  Mentoniaua  can 
vnjoy  when  we  like.  The  drive  tukcs  about  an  hour  at  an 
easy  pace,  b'lt  by  rail  it  i«  only  ti-n  minuter. 

On  a  line  Hunuy  winler'a  day  it  is  a  mo&t  cliarmin^ 
excursion  to  drive  over  to  I^Ionnco,  to  luneh  at  the  Inxu- 
rioua  Udtel  de  Pari«,  or  ti{/re*co  in  pic-nie  wtyle  on  the  rojid ; 
toiMnter  over  the  gardens,  to  listen  for  an  hour  to  the 
Aiiry-likc  musie,  and  then  to  rettiro  leisnrely  home,  bufurv 
ninset  chills  the  air.  The  drawback  i«  the  i<lea  that  always 
haunt*  oa«,  th^t  the  vice  of  ([ambling  should  be  the  means 
of  plaoing  tlie«e  <)niet,  health-tfiviiis  p1va)ture«  at  onr  dia- 
poeal.  I  try,  when  1  go  there,  vrhioh  I  often  do  for  the 
ra\co  of  the  Jlowent  ami  the  musio,  to  for[;el  all  abont  it,  and 
with  that  Tiew  seldom  or  ot-vcr  ciiler  the  gnmin;;  Haloon«. 
I  never  recommend  any  one  to  aetlle  at  Monaco,  for  1  can- 
not but  tliink  that  the  immediate  pioximity  of  a  iramiDdf 
table,  iu  tlw  absenoe  of  alt  active  occupation,  is  dangcroua 

N  2 


180 


MENTONK  IN  1T8  SOCIAL  AKPECT, 


to  mntiy  who  would  uevcr  ira^itivel)'  seek  its  excitement 
an<!  risks.  Moreover,  the  comjinnv,  mule  and  fi'miilc,  it 
very  Iwd  in  tlio  evening.  Tlie  lour  o'elocrk  nlli-niooii  tnun 
from  Nice  briii)^  daily  n  crowd  of  Iuom:  eliaracU-rs. 

The  Clip  MartiD,  a  semitircular  i>euin§ulu,  covered  wi 
UD  Olive  grove  in  (ho  centre,  and  a  protecting  Pita-  fori 
on  the  const  tnKrgin,  id  aiiolhcr  cluirming  driv*.  It  lortoi 
one  itidv  of  thu  weftti-m  hny,  and  ia  a  moitt  picturesque  and 
nttractii'e  tipot.  The  road  lirancheB  oil'  Trom  tho  Nice  road 
near  the  town,  |iii>«<ut  through  an  Olive  grove  of  Rue, 
ctiri»ii«  old  trcoit,  and  then  divides  into  two.  The  onej^^J 
after  psuKiiig  by  Boine  pretty  orange  orchards,  ekirte  thj^H 
phore,  fnii<;ed  with  irregular,  wiiU"r-worn  rocks,  htanehcd  " 
Ly  thf  v.avet  Athtdi  tho  Houth-wcnl  wind  drivvit  oii  them 
with  extreme  fury.  When  there  is  a  storm  from  the  eouth- 
weet  or  eonlh-caet,  it  \e  n  niagnideeiit  spectacle  to  watch 
the  soil  da*hiiig  viotenUy  on  llie  sharp,  jagg^-d  inaasea  of 
lime«toDc,  und  breaking   into  dense  magscH  of  foam  and 

At  the  extremity  of  the  cnpe,  ju^t  tus  the  ecashora  road 
begins  to  turn  and  to  anccnd,  there  is  u  little  shorp  track, 
that  wiiulfi  round  the  prouioutury,  shove  th«  eta,  at  tho 
(out  of  tlio  tteep  myrtle-covered  dillk ;  and  amidst  the  cod- 
fnscd,  irTcgulor  ntawi  ofrockis  which  line  the  shore  thiTware 
viirioua  little  warm  and  lovely  coves,  'iliii)  ]tiith  ix,  wiUiout 
any  doubt,  one  of  the  most  dclighttil  spots  in  the  district 
for  the  qniet  contemplation  of  nature's  sterner  beauties. 
The  time  to  spend  an  hour  or  two  here  iit  in  tlie  afternoon, 
wlitn  the  sun,  pas^ini;  to  the  west,  pours  its  warm  rays  OQ 
thi*,  tliv  wei'tcri]  Hide  of  the  enpc.  An  intelli'^ent  survey 
of  the  wildi-tneits  of  rocks  will  reveal  n  handred  Doof 
worthy  of  nn  emptror's  siesta. 

The  other  branch  of  the  Cup  road  ascinds  to  the  higher 
ground  of  the  promontory,  a»d  leadn,  through  lovely  wvoda 
of  Olive  and  I'lnc,  with  n  brushwuDd  of  Myrtle,  Leutisous, 
pnckly  Broom,  and  Thyme,  to  some  old  ruinu,  said  by 
some  to  be  Uvman.  and  by  others  to  be  the  renuiins  of  a 
convent.  Near  them  is  a  telegraph  tower,  which 
«l«ctriu  wire  ban  reniicred  iinelvs*. 

fiolk  theoo  roade  ail'onl  at  every  step  magnilicenti 


DRIV.IS — TUB  OAREI  VAU.BY. 


18J 


of  the  ^fonluniai)  amphitheatre,  of  the  Krandlau  laoiin- 
taiii9  Diut  form  it,  and  of  tlio  bold  anil  irre;;ular  coast  line 
tta  far  as  Bonlii^hcm,  "omo  twelve  miles  ofl",  Bordi^liera, 
built  on  B  proinoitturj'  vrliich  ii(lviin<.-(-!i  otit  to  nim  in  a 
•outh •MIA tern  diroclion,  is  a  very  ))n)miuetit  object  IVom 
every  pari  of  the  voaet  as  far  as  Antibee,  It  |{ivL>s  at  a 
distance  lUo  promise  of  {■rcaUsr  bi^aiity  than  it  ri»liz<id  on 
a  cloNor  iiiapccliui). 

The  Turiu  rood  (see  local  map)  asceods  the  deepest  and 
toDgeat  valley  in  the  atnphithcatra— that  of  Carai,  at  tlie 
entmnca  of  the  town.  The  miCetit  begins  iiWut  a  mile 
from  tliii  »bore.  It  ia  for  some  (li;<LiTic«  very  gentle, 
until  a  mile  beyond  the  vilLi^  of  .Monti,  when  it  begins 
to  climb  the  eido  of  ihu  mountain  by  a  terraced,  en;^- 
HMirvd  causeway,  like  one  of  tlio  gresit  Swiss  [iomos  inta 
I  Ituly.  Tlii»  road,  only  recently  completed,  reachm  the 
^^Kummil  of  the  pass,  abotil  three  milea  from  the  shore,  at 
^Kin  elevation  of  240U  feel,  It  then  pai^scs  through  a  short 
^B^inu^lf  descends  and  joins  the  road  Irom  Nice  to  Turin  by 
^Vtho  Co)  de  'IVnde  at  SoKjitftlo,  the  Meond  stage  from  Xitie. 
Tlic  Mentoniati  amphitheatre  ia  thu«  now  in  free  commu* 
niealion  with  the  highland  reijions  that  surround  it,  and 
from  which  it  had  hiUivrto  been  cut  olF  by  iu  monnlain 
barrier.  Siipplikts  of  forage,  and  of  luountuui  produce 
generally,  now  uasily  get  to  Mentone  by  rood  carriage, 
whereas  formerly  they  could  only  reaoh  by  mules,  or  round 
by  Nice. 

Moreover,  n  be^iulirul  and  interesting  highland  district 

IU  Iweoine  acce^^ible  throughout  the  winter,  not  only  to 

bardv  pe^Iestrians,  as  heretotore,  but  to  all  stnmgers  and 

vuids  capable  ot  ]>rudcut]y  leaving  the  protected  regions 

■nd  of  sjiending  a  lew  hixira  in  n  carriage.     This  part  of 

the  Maritime  Alp^t  mmUinH  m.iny  places  of  interest,  many 

picturesque  loeilities,  which  can  be  viiiited  by  all  but  the 

anore  conlirratHl  iuvali<U  during  a  great  part  of  the  wint«r. 

'Even  the  invalid  vi*it'>r  in  now  able  to  (leDetnite  beyond 

the  mountain  burner  in  tlic  autumn,  before  severe  weather 

laa  M!t  ill,  and  in   the  early  spring,  in   April  and  May, 

hen  the  reign  of  winter   baa   ceased   iu  tlieeo  southern 

mountains. 


182 


UKNTOKE  IK   ITS  SOCIAL  XRfKn. 


Th«  liidl  tiiitnei)  drive  U  along  ihe  Hoirie  or  Ca 
vallej'.  'I'hia  rond,  a  icm:trkably  i^ood  ttaH  nt-urly  tevt-l  one, 
is  al>out  a  mile  aod  a  hall  in  extent.  It  Hkirlf  a  mounlaiii 
torrviit,  wliicli  oectipit:*  ttiu  verjr  octitre  of  tbu  iMeiitone 
uni)i)iitheatrf,  mid  which  carries  to  the  rcd  the  wiitt^rBh< 
of  a  considcrnble  cxtvtit  of  t1i«  Btirmuodini*  mountiiiu: 
When  1  Rtst  knew  Mviitolie  tliero  was  no  brld^  ova 
tlii>>  ti>m-iil,  uh<-i-t!  it  timiwv  iudf  into  tlic  sen,  near  t)i« 
etitniiice  of  the  town,  .iiul  alter  htaity  rains  it  was  somo- 
times  eo  ewollcn  as  to  intercept  sll  cumininiicatiun  for 
many  hoiin.  A  new  )'ri>]|^-  hiw  heen  Imilt,  hii  tliat  h«r^. 
at  l«iuil,  trnvcHent  will  no  lungi-r  have  to  watt  "  until  thi 
river  runs  dry,"  foT  we  could  ntsver  say  with  Uoriiui^ 

"!Rni(ticUB«XBp«t«tdi)in  dHliiatnniiUi  at  ilU 
IdlHtnr,  et  ubetur  in  omne  volabilia  torum, 

Tlic  view  of  the  mountiiinft  from  thin  valley  is  niiif-nificent, 
for  we  nrc  nt  their  bn»e,  in  the  very  heart  of  Ilic  amphi- 
lti<-atr<>.  'So  wimU  over  jionetrute,  not  even  llie  wa  bit)ezi>, 
the  viilley  de«eriliing  an  anju;le  whi<.'h  efleetivelv  slitits  it  out. 
The  railroad  station  has  been  erected  at  il»  entrance  in  tlie 
midfit  «r  lovely  mountnin  f^enciy.  At  the  (crniinntton  of 
the Ciirriagc  road  there  i^n  pidnn-Hrineolivemill,  iind  liiyond 
B  romantir  pulUwuy,  uhich  extundu  lor  an<itbcr  mil--,  nionn- 
dciing  ainou^  Olive  and  I'ine  groves,  nntil  it  ifaihis  tb 
(mall  vilhi^o  otCabrole,  tit  the  head  of  the  valley. 

About  the  centre  ot  thut  jmrtion  of  the  valley  ivhirh 
occupied  hy  the  carrisfte  road  the  torrent  reeeives  a  tri 
lary  from  the  went,  lirini;ins  the  waters  of  one  of 
iireltivKt  Mind»lone  niviiK-*  of  the  dietnet.  It  is  called  the 
ViintKine  and  ilqiatica  vatliy,  oaing  lo  the  l^r^■^e^«■  of 
these  fluwcrn  in  [irofii^iun  in  curly  spring.  Huth  tlic  Cahroli.* 
and  the  Primrose  valleys  are  invaltmble  to  the  invalids  of 
the  western  buy,  oRi;nng  a  Hife  retreat  I'loni  cveiy  wind, 
Mintihine,  and  the  moht  wild,  beaiitifiit  fcenery.  Ueinp* 
nith^n  half  a  mile  of  the  entiance  of  the  town,  they  arc  an 
uccesftihlc  to  pcdtstriant  as  to  those  who  ride  or  drive. 

Stiaiigcrt  have  to  learn  how  to  enjoy  these  drives.  The 
|>lan  that  I  n-commeiid  in  not  ineri-ly  to  drive  (o  ii  point 
and  then  Lack  again,  but,  once  the  general  fcutuie*  of  the 


n» 

M 


itn-      I 

1 

th^ 


DniVES — THE  CADROLR  VALLliV. 


1S.1 


■ 


eountrjr  have  become  rumiliur,  to  iiiuld.'  tisu  of  the  i-ArTui)j;« 
«r  llutli-L-lintrar  ilutiliey  inertly  tojiMvli  the  moat  nln-'llt-rcl 
■  lid  {tii;liiiv<H(iic  |»rl  ul  llic  rr:^uii  ticlei:ti.-<J.  Tlit'lt  il.  fliwiltl 
lit  alHtridi-iVRtl,  ill  ul-(li.*r  loiMnri-lv  to  t-x]jKiri'  on  r»ol  tlio 
romantic  monutuiii  iMttis  mid  the  diuruiiii^  woodlmiii  iiuoks 
tluit  ctii  only  thus  uv  reuclicd.  ll  tiue(|ual  to  kikIi  mi  vxer- 
Lion,  Uh.'  invalid  c:m  rvuline  io  snmc  diOH'U  s)m>I,  Uuiiixhio 
tjistiioi),  on  tlie  t^roiuhl,  iu  tin-  i^unittiine.  Willi  tin:  liul[i  of 
ni;^  and  clusikc,  ur  ol  llie  C4m;iuru  cuEiltiotis,  a  comtortabli! 
tnampaiciit  mtiy  bi;  inadi.-.  in  winch  iin  ham'  or  more  lu^isvo 
wry  Mwillly  in  Uiv  vnjoyniunt  ol'  ttiu  I'ulicity  h>  •.'l<M|iu-ntly 
di-scrii^d  by  ±ibjl(ii|iuun;  iu  ttiu  vurMiM  ut  ttiv  liuud  ol'  litis 
ter. 

Iiould  even  this  be  too  gr«it  an  csei-lion,  the  tarrin;^ 
Iw  slopped  ill  somo  exo^tionaDy  lowly  E|iot,  t^iriivd  m 
aa  lor  (tie  houd  to  iitWil   )>rolivtioii  iroin  tbv  mid  or  Hind, 
the  inv^ihd  mudi!  coiiilijitiiitlv,  uiiU  thvn  tbe  vidid  tneuiWra 
ol'  ibi-  |iiii'ty  can  de]>iirt  fur  n  rUM. 

No  one  DCtid  be  iilVaid  of  tliu»  Ki-liiiing  oil  the  ground, 
■s  tlioru  is  un  vntirv  abijoucc  at  Mentoite  of  all  aiituiutvd 
cnMittin-«  of  H  veaomoiiH  iinttirv,  with  liiu  cxtvption .  of 
moM|itiiaiii.  'I'lieiv  iirv,  it  i«  tme,  little  bWk  Buurpions, 
but  they  s«um  to  byberniit«  in  winter,  and  arv  unly  I'oiiiid 
by  tliosc  wlii>  look  lor  them  under  ilie  burti  tit  d<rviiyi.-d 
oliv«  Irciis.  Ill  A|inl,  iii>t  bclijic.  Kcr()fiil-«  ii|i|iiMr  on  very 
wttfin  9>uiiny  ruehH  iind  kiu-k,  but  ihvy  U-Idii^  to  the  hann* 
low  8|ivi:ini  iil  tliu  "  culbibr.i,"  an  iu  KnL;Unil.  No  utlief 
Bpci-ie:*,  uot  evcii  vi|K-fa,  are  kiiowu  to  exist.  Uliun?  u  ii 
Muall  ilut-lieiideil  ii({ly  lizard  wlii<!li  the  puu^nts  euunidvr 
V4)nviiii>iu,  Uiiii  destroy  whuii  they  Ittid  it.  I  it;tw  one  of  thin 
idetitiral  njiecin  Vi  AlVicii  U[nuii<;  the  niin>i  iit  C^irt lu^tV' 
mid  was  told  by  iiiy  dra^otuan  tbat  il  was  dr-.-idi-tlly 
veiiumouf,  Tiie  Nice  natuivli?tJ>,  houi-vt.-t',  duiiy  tiiiit  it  ik 
Mj,  utid  ray  tliiit  tliu  pojiular  idt-a  is  u  luUiiuy,  li>uiide<l  on 
iu  really  ivpulMVo  ii|i]>uiiranc«. 

The  (KiMitjility  of  Ua'mg  tUu]>  ublo  to  lie,  liaekiuf;  iu  the 
mn,  ou  llie  ki*"""'!  or  on  the  rocks,  in  shvUored  «unnf 
nooke,  mo«t  days  tlirou^hont  t)iL-  winter,  if,  1  vouKtder,  mio 
ill'  ihv  ^rrviUfst  advunliii^es  to  hexUli  thntthe  Uivieiuolt'etb; 
uot  but  tliut  it  is  alutiya  jtrudcni  tu  bave  a  cloub,  a  rug,  or 


184 


MENTONE  IN  n»  SOCIAL  ASPECT. 


cushioa  aDd«rn«ntl),  and  to  uei;  »  good  sumliado  or  pnnuoT 
M  »  protection  from  gbiv  nnd  wtn<l.  Ry  thiit  niMiis  many 
hi)ur)<  may  Ih*  ijusUwi)  out  of  doore  oh  nioet  ilay.i  without] 
iiiti)j;uc.  It  is  an  itnmscmeiit  and  a  pleasure  to  look  about 
for  these  sunny  nooks,  to  fiud  oHvo  tret-s  slnntin;;  in 
required  dirvction,  *o  iw  to  form  n  oomfortsMc  support  to^ 
ihc  buck,  Onwf  fouiul  itiioh  «|>oU  hi-oonm  Tavouritw,  nnd 
are  mmii  em  bored. 

AIUt  some  houre  of  such  repose  we  rise  refreshed,  r«n< 
vnt«l  by  cnnlitnt  with  thf  wrth,  «it  better  nnd  slw 
Bounder.  W«  aru  like  th«  Titniin  in  IWrniir  diiyx,  the  mim' 
of  the  nartl).  When  fi^htin^  with  Jupiter  they  wens 
repeatedly  hurled  to  the  curth,  their  mother,  hut  eaeh  time 
they  totiohed  ht-r  tlu-y  wore  eiiduwed  with  fresh  pnw-tr  for 
tlie  fight ;  n^rlaluly  tho  idlog:»ry  conccidw  ii  triitli.  Or,  a 
more  modern  and  "  soii-ntilie"  tlieory  nuiy  he  adopted ;  we 
may  Assume  that  we  imbibe  directly  some  of  the  esirtti'a 
electricity,  her  vital  llitid,  and  are  thus  diivctly  vitalised. 

Quiet  communion  with  nature  is  infinitely  preferable  to 
h>ng  futiffiiiiig  drivAi,  aud  contribute*  mu4:li  more  to  the 
improvement  of  health.  A  carriage  otwd  in  this  way  givea 
an  invalid  the  command  of  all  tJie  most  beautiful  scenery 
of  the  district,  and  I  stron|>ly  advise  all  who  can  allbrd  it 
to  engage  one  for  the  sc-juunij  the  more  >o  as  curnH^roa  an'\ 
both  dillkiilt  to  obtain  and  dear  if  taken  for  a  day  or  k.i 
drive,  just  as  in  smsll  country  towns  in  England.  Ent^aged 
by  the  month  or  season  tlivy  are  not  more  expensive  tluin  in 
INiris  or  London.  A  oomlortable  open  carriage,  with  two 
lior»es,  can  be  bad,  from  cither  Meutonu  or  Niect,  fur  iiliont 
thirty  pounds  or  guineas  a  month,  includini;  the  driver, 
and  alt  expenses.  There  are  now  very  tolerable  hack  cabs, 
open  and  stint,  stAndin;;  for  hire,  at  a  fixed  turilT,  op|H)<ito 
thv  Caoino  or  Club  in  the  town,  hut  their  rntiit  are  high, 
and  the  drivers  are  dilQeult  to  control,  as  they  wiih  to  bo 
employed  for  the  day.  An  omnibus  runs  from  one  end  of 
the  town  to  the  other,  at  Ntatcd  hours. 

llorK'K  are  but  little  adapted  to  the  inoitntHinotu  cha- 
racter of  tlie  country,  and  are  so  little   ]>alnii>iiu.-d   that 
they  are  not  easily   attainable.     They  may,  houever,  bo' 
obtained  from  Kic«  by  vc|uustrians  who  are  stationary  long 


nORSER — DOKKEva. 


enoiir>h,  and  an;  strong  enough,  to  make  it  worth  their 
while. 

Puiikoyit  nro  tlic  imiuil  means  of  ancent  ti>  Um  iiicttireiqas 
mouiiuiit  vnllcvii  aixl  nAgt»;  miilus  hk  Wt  Utile  uaed. 
llie  al)te  i^ede^triun  caminatidfl  tlie  entire  MentonUn 
amphitheatre ;  hut  it  ia  not  so  mtli  the  iuvolid,  with  Uiliea, 
children,  iind  the  weak  Bcncrnllv.  TtiB  iixocnu  are  ofleti 
winding  and  ^tvep,  the  rowU  »«io  broken  tracks,  and  were 


niK  DoxKRir  mtxAX. 


it  not  for  tlio  donbeye,  much  of  the  most  wild  and  |>i<!tii- 
rveqiw  scenery  would  be  all  hut  innccesaible  to  the  invalid 
population.  'J'hvnc  iinimnlM  nru  niiinerous,  ati  every  pooMiot, 
tliv  owner  ol'  a  Tew  mountain  terraces,  kecm  oiiu  a»  a  'bciu>t 
of  burdvQ.  Donkeys  are  ah  peculiarly  auit«d  to  a  riu^d 
tnountain  cli«Lrict  as  th«  uimvl  in  to  the  desert.  At  Meo- 
tono  they  are  mi»lty  fine,  liunilsoin<:  animiiU.and  more  than 
usually  docile  and  i;iiud-lt'ni[>en'd,  pi'oliahly  l»cu:tiMe  thvy 
are  well  tended  and  treated  with  aH'ection  and  kiuduew. 


186 


MBNTOKE  IN  ITS  SOCIAL  ASPEKT. 


instrad  of  with  contempt  and  bnila'ity.  The  pcannnt? 
nlu'nys  giiido  them  l>j-  llio  v<>ii-c,  not  l-y  I'bwK.  It  u  inti-- 
riNlin^  In  »cu  tbc  iii-tt'-]iDs»i,-niirin  niiil  Mt-iirily  of  ftiot  u ilh 
which  llicy  <iew:eud  the  mont  nrmpitoiia  ]>uthf,  at  one  time 
eliding,  as  it  were,  on  their  batinclies,  in  »toc-[>  pliiui')),  tit' 
Another  ckipjiin'*  like  kidt,  nlthoiif^li  heavily  Indian.  Thu 
donkey  numuii  uri;  unly  ihe  owiR'ni  <>\'  tlie  tuiddles,  hiriu;; 
the  donki-ys  I'roin  the  iieitMHit".     Hence  the  nvweeity    "' 


IKE  DOS  KEY  HOT. 

hes|>eakinK  tbo  donkeys  over  night,  othiTwHee  they  urc  aft] 
to  th«  niouniuiiiR  Iiy  ciirty  mom. 

The  viewa  ute  cvcrywhtic  iwrfectly  mngntflcent.  TheJ 
most  iKmitintl  und  Ihotn;  Ihnl  [-ive  tiie  beat  idea  of  thi 
district  are  those  fruin  the  Cup  Miirlin,  and  from  mj 
f^rdt-n  and  rocks  at  Urimuldi.  Alttionpih  in  my  truvels 
have  iii»v  oil  !?iit  encirckd  the  >[editvrran<'Hn,  I  hove ' 
noivhcrw  iiuiiid  any  Bwiioiy  that  ci.n  be  comjiured  to  them, 
with  the  »in^le  exceplt>m  of  the  Diitmntian  coast,  ae  viewed 
ficim  (jort'ii  on  n  line  sunny  djiy.  But  beaiilil'iil  a*  it  is, 
there  is  not  the  great  viirit-ly  of  mountain  hei;^hl»  presented 


HOtTNTAUt'    VILI.AOt»-  ST'.    AONIME. 


187 


(jy  th(!  ^fcntntii- nmpliitlmtrc.  I  Iiiivn  Wii  lolJ  Uiat  tin; 
'tceiirry  at  Mfiit'tiie  is  very  like  thai  of  Mndi-ira,  only  «t 
Muntoue  then-  nre  si-voml  miles  of  k'vcl  coast  T>>n<)  nloti^ 
tliu  ficu-Fhori*,  H'iia-h  iit  Muildnt  arc  wanliii(>.  To  p.*t  ii 
tlioroii(;lily  giio'l  ulitn  of  tlit'  diulrict  the  alrangvr  alioiiM 
take  llif  drtvex  whicli  I  liave  describeJ,  nntl  then  inulie  an 
excursion  mi  foot,  or  on  a  tlonkoy,  to  the  inoitntniti  vil)at;i-)i 
of  R4)C(-itljniiiii  (unv  lumr),  CcMtellurc  (oiif  hour  and  n  hnlf), 
Qurbin  {two  h<>im  uiiU  ii  half),  and  St*.  Aj^iimu  (three 
hours).  'I'Ui  lii'st  v;in  l>e  rcaulicd  in  a  cBrria;;e,  the  otliere 
ouir  on  foot  or  on  donlcBye.  Si'.  A^aeae,  tho  most  rtimoti', 
if  Bitti»ti.-«l  at  ihv  )!uininit  of  tho  fii^l  h)icl(  Mgv. 

Koccikbruna.  C>tHtc1]ui-e,  nu<l  St*.  Ajiuesu  nre  mountain 
villH(;i-8,  f»un(li.'(l  hy  Ihi-ir  inhabitunts,  ag^e  a^fo,  on  account 
of  the  liicitilii-^  they  ulfiTilcd  for  i)<3rvi)i.-o.  ll»u<-ubruna  is 
xbuiil  800  fov-t  above  thv  Ka ;  OHvtelluro  1^00,  mtd  St". 
Ajnmt  2400. 

Until  a  recent  perind,  the  ndjaeont  itlioreii,  nnd  indcod 
those  of  the  entiiv  Hiviera,  n'ei«  expired  tu  the  eoustant 
attnoks  of  the  Mahommcdnn  pirates  of  the  south  AIodit«r> 
miii-an.  For  inmiy  ixnttiric-s  it  wiu  lU«  SarJicetiF,  later  tliu 
OSirkf  and  Til'Min  <if  TuuIj^  and  Aly;ti'n(,  who  puriodtrally 
nviiged  thexe  coaxlc.  'I'heir  forays  were  nut  for  wealth, 
n'htvh  thL>  poor  liBh«riDeD  and  labourers  did  not  pai?sc«s, 
but  for  olavt-fi ;  f»r  the  women  were  liaiuU'jmc,  >iid  tJie  men 
6lroni;.  To  wilhitaud  thme  atlui'.lcx,  the  inhaliituntiiof  the 
towns  choi>c4li'reu>ibleBituutiunN,  auith  bh  the  Hteep  proniou- 
toriei  and  eminetices  on  which  Monaco,  K»a,  Metitone, 
Veiitiniiiflia,  and  San  Iteino.  arc  situated;  fortilyiu;'  th^'tn- 
eolves  al<^>  with  Etr^)ni;  (vuIIk.  Tho  u-^riRulturistf  soii^liC 
Kufi^ty  by  pi-ri-liiii^  their  villtig«a  od  all  but  inacui-snible 
hci|j;hla,  uheiR-e  tbey  could  see  their  enemiea  ni)pi'u.icliiii);, 
and  where  thi'v  could  easier  tie It/nd  iheinselvee  if  allntkcd. 

There  are  still  men  alivu  at  Mentone,  who,  i»  the  early 
part  of  tliii'  cenlury  were  r*-ixvA  on  the  court  by  the  MourH, 
and  Aub«c<inently  lived  foryeara  us  slaves  at  Alj^iers  and 
Tunis.  That  such  should  be  the  case  is  not  nurprisiu'/, 
when  wo  retii-L-t  that  piracy  rci;;ned  supreme  in  the  Mt-di- 
ti^rraiiean  uuttl  tlw  year  IStlJ,  when  L>ird  Lxinoiith 
bombnrded  Algiers,  and  that  it  wan  Dot  finally  extiugui^ied 


188 


HRNTONE  IN   ITS  SOCIAL  ASPECT. 


until  t lie  French  took  pof»»i9iou  of  A1f;i«n  in  1830.  At' 
till'  time  of  Lord  ExmoitUi'e  boin)iurdR)«ot  Uiere  were 
thou!<an(I>i  ■>('  Kiirupmn  Klavci<  in  the  Aliroriiie  fcaWeya. 
Theao  slaves  were  mostly  natives  of  the  northern  Medtter- 
ran can  shores,  taken  ntciea  Prom  the  lishing  boats  and  miUn-; 
vowels,  or  rrom  thu  const  villiti^cs  and  tawna  by  sudden 
forays. 

At  St'.  Aijnese  and  K^jceabruna  then?  are  (lie  ruins  oT 
ancii;iit  castles.  Tliat  of  St".  Asnose  must  h-ivu  bwii  a 
plfict-  (if  wninidoi'uljlc  stronfjth.  LoKil  triitiition*  say  that  it 
wa«  built  by  the  Suruoena,  in  order  to  keep  in  aubjeotion 
the  smiling  distriolA  which  constitute  the  MentoniMi  am- 
nbit)R>atre,  Probably,  than  »;  now  it  wai;  a  ganliMi,  rich 
in  (ilivos  in  oran;^^s  and  lemons,  iind  was  oonsidered  A 
denii-iible  eonciuoKt  by  the  sniithi-ni  inv.idera. 

The  castle  of  lloecabruua  is  evidently  of  much  more 
reoODt  date,  allhou;>h  it  goes  hack  to  tlic  Midilic  Ai^tis. 
It  recalls  to  mind  the  stronj^boKb  of "  The  Kbine  Itaruns," 
and  ib>  possoMiors  no  doubt  levicil  bliiuk-mail  on  those  who 
trav<-1luil  aluiii;  the  4>oaiit-ri>nd  from  Nice  to  Genoa. 
AltlK'U.rb  n  mere  mule  track,  thin  road  must  have  been 
much  Irequented  in  winter  in  the  days  when  tbcru  was  not 
a  single  cuTrini^e  rond  ncroEK  the  Alps,  and  ivlicn  winter 
rcnilvrcd  tlieir  snow-ubul  sumniitat  an  all  but  impassable 
barrier. 

All  alon;;  tbe  coast  to  Genon  may  be  seen  at  inl«rval9 
the  ruins  nf  watuh-towen,  «rect4.'d  in  Tirmer  lima  in  posi- 
tions iavouRihle  to  defence,  or  suitabli;  fur  looking  oat. 
They  evidently  farmed  a  part  of  the  (tener.d  system  of 
protei'li'iii  everywbura  necessary  against  the  pinitvs.  Those 
towers,  thi-  old  lnwiis,  prcMiud  into  the  smallest  possible 
o.jHioe,  and  iiurruuudi'd  with  wnlls,  thv  villages  perched  on 
heichts  up  to  which  the  inhabituuls  hud  to  toil  wearily 
after  the  day's  Ubaur,  all  vividly  point  to  times  far  different  i 
I'l  till''  pri^L-iit.  Thoy  tell  of  life  passed  in  coastdut  alarm, 
of  ey«a  constantly  hirn«d  witli  anxiety  to  the  sen,  lixini 
whence  the  human  hawkn  were  ever  ready  to  pounce  on  tha 
young,  thd  handsomi.', and  the  ^itrun^ — of  ht-art^  toni  by  thai 
<li:<tant  gronns  of  retittivcs  in  ciiains  u)  a  disL.int  land.  Sucli 
tliuiights  have  oftvu  passed  through  my  mind  whet)  gining 


■ 


MOUNTAIN  VILLAGES — THS  CAUUDEL        180 

iron  8o«ie  muuntain  height  on  tlie  now  pamcM  sonw 
Iwlow.  Truly  no,  or  tUu  present  day,  haT»aiwdt  tv-to 
thankrul  for;  our  lol  Iium  Uwn  cn^t  in  mncli  h»ppk-r  Hmex. 
The  good  old  tiaies  do  not  bear  oxumiiiutiitii ;  tlicy  nvm, 
everywhere,  duye  of  opp rest) ion,  rnpine,  violence,  and  di>ie«8fe 

A  wiiWrl'id)  oulk-d  the  CiiscntliF,  in  ihv  Carri  valley,  ifl 
worth  vivittnf;.  After  niin  thrro  ion  goml  full  of  wtttvr, 
above  a  huiidrcrd  fiMt  hi$;li.  ttiiiibliiig;  over  vast  mowee  of 
broken  tiatur-woni  rocks,  and  formin»  vharminf;  pools. 
Thi!  prettin't  miul  is  through  Ciwt«llariMnid  I'Uirtiiig;  the 
lower  part  of  the  back  range,  over  wliieb  tin-  wattr  de- 
BCendfi,  The  return  can  be  uinde  down  the  Ctirei  valley, 
by  tho  Turin  or  Soepcllo  rond.  It  is  n  favourite  place  for 
fornK,  ntid  ut»o  for  pii-nicH,  The  road  from  ('ust^llure,  a 
donkey-track,  taking  the  visitor  to  the  oenlre  of  the  baclt- 
f;roundof  the  Mentoninn  amphitheatre,  affords  many  lovely 
views.  Tlie  entiro  distance,  there  and  back,  is  about  nine 
or  ten  milen. 

In  the  immediate  vieiuity  of  the  cajicade  there  ia  a 
hi-nnil's  cave  hi)>h  up  in  the  rock.  Its  very  euHtence  was 
a  tradition  until  iin  Enjjlii'b  FUilor  climbi^  up  a  few  ycar« 
M^o,  and  found  Mmi^  buutw,  ut<;n>ili>,  a  half- obliterated 
inscription,  and  a  date,  11>9S.  Since  then  it  bos  beeu 
r^)eiat«dly  reached  by  Scottish  dr«r- stalkers  and  hardy 
mounlainccrit,  but  not  without  considt'rablv  ri&k.  Indeed, 
I  do  not  advise  anv  one  to  attempt  it. 

'f  he  view  from  tne  castle  of  Itoccabruna  is  very  beautiful, 
na  ulm  ara  IIkxw  from  Coet^lUrc,  Gorbio,  and  St'.  Agneso. 
Tbey  aro  all  four  mere  mountain  village*,  iuhabit^rd  by  the 
peaeantry  ulio  till  the  ut))>er  terraces,  a  simple,  burd>work- 
inf^  rnee,  who  kiww  but  little  of  iha  world  and  of  its  doings. 
In  tiieaii  villii<^  the  cur^-,  or  priest,  is  the  fattier  of  tlie 
tlock,  and  the  great  man. 

From  Oorbio  to  KoceabniQa  there  is  a  donk«y-tmek  over 
tJlO  hilla  that  luaiis  through  a  very  boautirul  niuuutuin 
district,  with  magniilcciit  views  od  every  side.  From  thL^ 
rood  is  veil  seen,  skirtini^  the  mountain  side,  an  acjueduct, 
wliicli  bringH  water  to  Itoccabruna  from  a  ^reat  distance. 
It  was  completed  about  twenty  yean  ago.  itefore  that  the 
inhabitants  of  Itoccabruna  were  very  badly  off  for  water, 


190 


MENTONB  IS    ITS  SOCIAL  ASPEtT. 


ntid  (lopcD(lcil  all  Irtit  fiitirdy  on  tlicir    rain  lank*.     Ni>W 
i\u^y  have  u  good   nupply  from  ii   ^priii^   tliat   is   nnvcc  i 
exhausted. 

Tho6i*vrho  nrestron"  nnd  wi-U  cun  )>oout  in  nil  woathora 
unlet*  tliu  ruin  full  in  uiiUinu-U,  )>iit  ihc  invuliil  viiuuUI 
keep  at  liniiii!  wlit-ii  the  wind  hluwrs  luinl,  uvi-u  from  the 
Ki>itlli,  niul  nlieu  lliG  ireather  is  broken.  Tho  dutcntion 
xddoni  Innts  mor«  tliiin  t\to  or  lliroc  diijn,  iind  it  is  n  jjtjod 
(Kdiisiun  ti>  write  k'ttuni,  ulwnys  in  iirrc^r  Uvm  tiie  Icmjx 
tation  llio  oonstjnt  line  wpatlit-r  atl'ords  to  out-door  lil'e. 
Indvud,  invidido  eliviild  livo  in  wcittlii-r-prool  liouec^s,  liko 
heea  in  tlicir  liivu.  If  it  I'OcomrN  cloudy  und  niins  in 
gummer  bcea  will  be  wen  tmajving  linme  in  great  iiumben. 
Kvi-ry  now  nnd  then  one  oomes  to  tbe  door  to  eee  how  the 
weather  i».  Il  hu  i%|mi-t«  i-ttiii  over  nnd  eiinshinc  Uicy  onoo 
more  nlly  forth  to  rillu  the  lliiw<-r«  uf  tlicir  Kwcelx.  So 
should  wv  do  wh«D  ill  and  no  longer  lit  to  battle  witb  the 
dome  II  ts. 

Moxt  of  tile  plactt-  bostEuit«d  for  esccursioos  arc  indicuU-d 
on  Uic  tnni)  of  Mcnti>n«,  wliicli  hos  been  drawn  ui»  witb 
ureal  care  from  tlic  Italian  ordnance  survey.  I^et  no  on«, 
however,  imagine,  eays  my  friend  Mr.  Mofcgrtdge,  "  that 
when  tifl  have  htvtx  vit^iti-d  Iio  bos  exbkosted  the  ko&utics 
of  llic  imme<liate  ncTfjhtonrhood  of  Mcnlonv ;  on  the  con- 
trary, there  ia  fre<iuently  an  entii-cly  new  vieiv  to  be  had 
within  iUfi  or  3UU  }-«rds  ri[;bt  or  lelt  o?  main  paths,  while 
eadi  hill,  little  knoll,  or  gorge  nlTords  u  vuHrty  in  the 
pcenery,  either  peculiar  to  itnelf,  or  in  combination  witb 
thu  (Hslitnt  countr}-.  I'o^ing  beyond  tbo  limit"  uf  Ibc  map, 
the  countiy  become*  wildvr  and  more  gntnd,  but  many  uf 
the  moiiotain  vallevn  are  rich  beyuud  comparison  in  ii^ri- 
Giilluml  prQdocte.  If  ever  there  niw  a  valley  that  did  '  liingb 
and  I'ing'  it  is  that  of  CuiruMi,  »  tribiitjuy  «!'  the  lluya. 
Here  in  June  the  rich  rdluvial  noil  is  covci'ed  with  abuDdaot 
crops  sboulderinK  one  anotbcr.  Aeceuding  Irom  thenuo 
thron^b  a  line  lorrpl  of  ChostnntSj  Pintut  tiylvvctm,  Ahie» 
excetru,  A.  pcclinaln,  Pinun  ecmbra,  and  the  Larch,  a  fine 
extent  of  p;riisB  Und  la  reached,  varying;  in  heif^ht  from 
50U0  to  DODO  feet.  This  is  the  niHWni  arrets:  of  Aut^n, 
and  belure  it  hua  becD  vivited  by  the  mower  the  blaze  < 


MOON    AND  STAR  LIGHT. 


191 


wild  (lowcn;— rrrnny  of  tliom  Wjmtiful  nnd  rnro— U  iilnioat 
too  mudi  for  tlitt  <lii/;£lu(l  »i)i;lit.  There  is  uiii!  gorga  in  wliich 
1  would  direct  attention,  becausa  it  is  witliin  rvaxii  of  Men- 
tone — the  (^>rgi:  of  Pinon,  one  Imiir't  ividk  trom  Sospello 
(M(lU;l  Curvnco)  on  ihu  roa  I  to  MoUiDutto.  Twa  vnry  prutty 
wnterlulU  (jfivet  you  at  the  entrance:  a  little  further  the 
eavn^  rocka,  the  brokeit  fortstfi,  and  the  tossinir,  tumbling 
river  (■'*■«  u  i»iieoei«io«  of  views  ijver  oburaiin:*,  ever  iiuw, 
tliiit  ure  exoelled  only  by  the  ifreut  gorgas  of  the  Hoya, 
Mniiy  rure  wild  flowers  muy  bo  gullier«d  here  even  iu  the 
Muntoiie  H,'ii5(>ii." 

The  moon  mid  Htata  are  muolt  more  brillunt  on  tlic  north 
ehorcA  of  tiie  Meditcrruuean  tkuu  in  our  lulitudea,  owin^ 
no  doubt  (o  the  i^uat  dryinms  of  tlio  ulinosplicre,  to  the 
pnucity  of  wntcry  viipour.  It  i*  the  Nime  meteorological 
condition  that  niukaii  tlie  sunshine  eo  brilliant  and  ll)<>  sky 
so  blue  in  the  daytime.  Thnii  the  ni);hte,  t^ner^illy,  are  iu- 
dc«enbaldy  bviiutilul  ;  the  kUii-n  eliint]  out  with  Binj{ulsv 
vividHeM,  an<l  the  iilanetit  and  larger  ttam  make  trvi.'ks  of 
lil{ht  in  tkfr  nea  tike  the  moon  with  us.  When,  however, 
the  moon  is  fall,  or  even  partly  so,  their  brilliancy  poles 
iMifbre  her  vivi<l  rnye.  One  of  the  favounlu  exeiireioris, 
with  UieMroti);,  b  to  go  ut  ni^ht,  vrhen  tlie  muon  it  full, 
al'in^  the  shore  to  the  St.  Louis  ravine.na  her  rny^  then  illumi- 
nnte  the  dwpent  reeesses  of  tUu  ravine.  1  ott«n  myself  sit 
at  my  window  and  wateh  tlio  moon  ri»ini;  over  the  cusbtrn 
moiinlKins.  Lon^  before  she  appears  ut  the  imminit  of  the 
rid(je,  the  lijciit  thrown  on  the  sky  is  all  hut  that  of  diiy, 
and  when  fhv  doe*  »how  herself,  each  tree  and  shrub  on  the 
mountain  brow  becomes  vLiible.  The  "tr:iok  of  light"  on 
the  sea  is  not  a  mere  path,  as  with  us,  but  a  "  river  or  Hood" 
of  light.  On  one  occasion  I  was  sent  for  to  Finale  by 
tvlegmph,  before  the  dayit  of  the  railroad,  and  had  tu  port 
alnn({  tne  ooasl  on  a  beautiful  ni^ht,  willi  the  moon  ut  its 
full.  For  hours  she  ^bcd  her  river  of  li;;ht  on  the  sua, 
brilliantly  illuminnling  it  portion  of  iloi  Hurfuce,  I  was  en- 
tranced, ouuld  not  kvep  tiiy  (•jua  from  the  stream  iif  Hitvor 
wav«8  danoins  in  the  moonbeams,  and  I  fully  comprehended 
and  aocept«4)  a  wild  Cauiidiun  legend  onoe  read.  A  young 
man  disappeared  on  his  marriage  night,  and  was  tracked  to 


192  MEKTOXE   IS    rre  SOCIAL  ASPECT. 

the  margin  vfLlu'KTcat  Ontario  liik«,  then  rroiii^ii  nndcnvori 
with  Biiow.     A  ball  was  Uikii)^  ]>laoe,  and  he  tiud  sudden 
loft  liu  bridv,  his  family,  nod  his  fmnO^,   in  the   midst 
of  the  fi-jilivitim.      He  hud  Ulcon  hix  rkntCK  with  him,! 
fflitened  tlieiti  1o  Ills  f<^et  on  the  margiD  of  the  lake,  and 
seized  DO  doubt  vrilli  sudden  insanity,  bail  started  off  in 
tlti:  moontrack,  for  it  was  full  moon.      Hi*  frirnda  folh>wi.fi 
hia  tracts  for  many  mileK,  but  wvve  obliged  at  lust  to  return 
to  uve  their  owu  lives.     Sledges  were  then  procured  nn 
8(*nt  oir,  but  too  late  to  save  him.     He  was  found  dead  am 
i'ruxvi)  tome  twenty  inilev  from  ihc  Khore! 

'I'lie  language  spoken  by  the  pi'asautry  is  a  "patois," 
semi-Italian,  semi- I'Veneh,  but  incliinnp:  to  Itnlinn.     The 

tirojiriel'im  and  tradeKinon  all  f\icu\i  both  Jliiliati  and  French, 
lul  u'itli  them  French  now  {iredominales,  although  it  was 
not  BO  when  1  first  knew  Mentone.  The  shop-sii^s,  for- 
merly Italian,  aru  now  Frviioh.  In  roelin<;,  tin-  Mento- 
tiians  occupy  ahuiit  the  same  midway  pot^ition.  although 
their  Itiilian  aympathicM  predominate.  At  the  time  of  the 
annexation  they  petitioned  unanimously  to  be  "  left  alone," 
but  their  pttiliun  wits  not  allowed  to  sec  the  lii^ht.  They 
are  rallicr  a  haiidvotae  race,  uilh  Italian  feature*,  hliiek 
liair,  and  dark  eyes.  Many  very  handsome  young  women 
are  seen.  ^fl 

Ab  already  stated,  M«ntono  has  made  n.  great  iitc]>  >n^4 
advance  since  1  tir»t  drew  attention  to  it  as  a  winter  sanita- 
rium. There  are  now  some  Inxtitiotis  and  ninny  commo- 
dious villoA  to  Itrt  furniiihed,  and  nion?  arc  building.  I'hcre 
■n  alao  many  good  tirrt-^lat«  hotels  and  xevcrul  loarding- 
bouMB,  and  Fecond-clnsa  hoteln.  The  rent  of  the  villus 
varies  from  two  lo  twelve  thousand  francs  for  (be  winter 
scftfon.  Mi:i:<^t  vf  the  hotels  take  inmali's  "en  pension," 
that  ix,  boarders,  and  thv  temia  for  bonid  and  lodging  vary 
Jrom  eight  to  twelve  or  Blteen  Iranca  a  day,  according  to 
the  character  of  the  honsc. 

The  proximity  of  Nice  is  n  groat  advantage  and  mmirce 
not  otdy  Ui  those  who  are  well  and  strong,  but  even  to  in- 
valids. By  mesne  of  the  railway  Nice  may  easily  he 
vinited  between  hroJikfast  and  dinner,  and  that  withotil 
any  real  fatigue.     Formerly,  when  tbo  Turbia  had 


1 


NICK— THB  NEW  CWB. 


19S 


• 


croEged,  Nice  was  all  but  imtcccseiblc  to  the  iniriilid  popu- 

Nice  ia  a  ■mull  southern  capital,  wiUi  it«  Italtiin  opvm 
and  Frciioli  theatre,  it«  daily  fashionnble  proin«Ra(le  and 
drive,  it»  mililnry  band.  And  tts  nivtirm  o(  giiily-d reeled 
pi'ojilc.  Mont  xf  lliu  TiortherriL-n  who  coivd  thi^tv  in  thtt 
wiiit4.T  iirt!  not  invalids  at  all ;  they  are  the  otired  invalids 
of  former  days,  of  all  nations,  to  ivhoiu  the  southern 
winter  sun  hiis  bi-comc  a  nwewily.  Th«y  arc  also  ppi-ci- 
nicnaufthc  more  ivullcsn  of  our  iioumrymcn  and  women, 
Anglo-Saxons,  who,  al\er  wjnderini^  all  over  Europe  for 
yeara,  settle  down  at  Wt  for  the  wioter  at  Niw,  on 
iiocoiint  of  its  Eocitd  uttniclioTis,  hoca<isc  tt  i*  neiir  home, 
and  U-cnuttc  IctttfK  reach  in  thirly<£ix  liuurs.  Our  Ainmcuu 
cutisins  have  altio  adonted  Nice  an  a  winter  residence  ol 
late  years,  in  great  antl  yearly  incrcn«iiug  ntinibers. 

Until  latterly  but  few  of  tliu  tribe  nt  liealth  loungers 
cboac  Montoue  a*  a  rwidence.  The  Mentoniitnw  were  at 
tint  all  real  invalids,  glad  to  escape  from  the  gnietivM  of 
Nice,  aa  well  aa  fMra  its  du^t  and  ocea&ionalW  cold  winds. 
Many,  however,  ar«  bocominc  attached  to  tins  pietureaqiie 
Mediterranean  nook.  It  is  t\ui<^  U-t^itmintr  to  attnict  meru 
sunwoTHhipjiers,  and  a  forei;;ii  {Kipublion  i»  griulually 
fjrowinj^  up,  of  tlie  same  deseriptii)i)  an  that  of  Nice  and 
Cannes. 

The  inhabitauta  of  Mvutone  are  ozooedin;;ly  gracious 
and  cordial  to  stran^^erH,  and  are  doing  their  utmofit  to 
render  the  place  agreeable  to  them.  An  elegant  Cercle  or 
ttlub  baa  been  built  in  Ihe  centre  of  the  town,  wliich  is  well 
Bupplted  with  newspiipem.  It  iic  open  to  visitors  by  suh- 
ecriptiou,  and  oontiiiiis  billiard,  »ird,  and  convermtioii 
nirims,  and  a  good- siy-^d  theatre  ami  lialt-moin.  Ou  the 
Mhurc,  in  the  town,  there  te  an  coptuniide,  or  sea-terrace, 
constructed  in  1861,  and  to  which  the  name  of  "  Promenade 
till  Midi"  has  been  given.  It  is  intended  to  cmtinue  tliiti 
terraoi-  OJi  far  as  the  Cap  Martin  ;  wliun  linishud  it  will  make 
a  delightful  Kea-«idu  proiaenade  and  drive. 

Kaeh  winter  a  series  of  elegant  xiihiicription  balls  uiw 
uivpn  by  the  memb?ni  of  the  "  Cercle,"  tu  which  lln: 
vieitiin  are  invited.   They  are  well  attended  by  the  l-'rendi, 

o 


194 


IIKSTUNE   IN    ITO  SOCIAL  ASI'KCT. 


uni]  (i1»u  by  many  ta«m\»v*   of  the  En>;lish  oommunityi 
mud)  to  tbe   ijralitiuition   of  llie   Meiitonuns.     Vorwii 
(fthor  yhaa  for  the  iinprovomenl  of  tite  town  mh]  iIr  vicinity 
are  on  Hid  ta])is. 

In  tIiu  town  tottm  of  tho  beet  lioi)i>cv  of  ttic  principul  or 
iiK'dttrn  Hlrcut  an-  Ivt  in  npnrtint'ntti,  or  flaiM,  liirniKlnti  or 
iiTiriinuBlieO.     Tliew  ajnulmenls  are  not  so  (icBiralile  fur  a 
reBHlcncc  us  the  Ftilmrljiiu  villne,  but  they  itrc  mucli  Dio: 
rvst-otiiil>!u  in  price. 

During  Ibu  Itut  few  yeare,  1  inn  happy  to  »ny  thit  a 
(.■unBitlvrnble  amount  of  attpittion  haa  been  devoted  by  tb« 
prc^H  at  homo  to  tbv  by-;ivnic  state  of  eotilhem  hcialtli- 
r(«tirt>i.      Ak   1    mm  nit]  CI   niviidf  in  n  gnai  mmenra  the 
ori;^innt»r  of  IhiH  t'celiii);,  bcinu  the  tirnt  author  on  olinint« 
who  h:i=>  made  liyj-itiiic  (.-uDililiaRs  the  chief  baatH  of  bin  ^^ 
reMrnrL'bo);,  I  iim  [;rntiliod  to  tind   that    public  opinion  iv^H 
bu<;inni»t;  to  awakt-n  to  thcM  vitul  qiiMitiunK.     Ono  or  tno^^ 
wiiti-nt,  however,  have  described   Mentone  iia  tveo  moro 
dirivi<!ut    in    thif    re6|)eot   than    other    sunitnria   on   thu 
ooual ;  a  nioitt  unfounded  and  unfair  mielaUe.     So  far  from 
this  bein<;    the   ciisc,   I   do  not   hwilatu  to  eay  that  tho 
li)  •^ii-nic  KttiU-  of  Mvinto»«  i*  miidt  1>ott«r  than  that  of  any 
olliL-r  nnitjirium  between  Marseilles  and  Genoa,  not  fro 
any  peculiar  for«thuU|tbt  on  the  part  of  ite  inhabitants,  but 
becaofc  ite  population,  native  and  fuit'ign,  in  emnller. 

Th(!  diuitiage  of  Urge  towna  involves  one  of  tlio  mov 
diflicidt  prubleins  of  Diudeni  civilization,  one  of  aa   much 
importiMicv  lo  as  In  our  northern  i«k-  tu  to  the  inhabitants 
of  Kijuthern    Kunipu.     In  the  «nnill    priir.itiv«  iigricnlt ural 
towns  of  the  Ligurian  coast,  and  of  the  south  of  Kurnpi 
aeiierally,  tbo  want  of  main   diaing  is  not  lelt.     All   tin 
'iDhnbiUnt^uruusuallylaiidvxl  proprietors.  Olive  and  Lcnio 
Int-a,  wen  iit  the  sunny  south,  vrill  not  bi.-«r  <:rop«  ol  IViiik' 
williout  manure,  and  where  is  it  to  come  from  in  countries 
when-  there  ia  little  or  no  pnHuro  unlera  it  be  from  th< 
hunu-K  of  the  proprii-tom?     tienec,  at  Mrnlone  and  cl 
'  nbvre,  before  thu  udvent  of  stranften',  the  household  dniin- 
aj(e  WHS  everywhere  stiuputoiitly  preserved,  placed  in  small 
oueks  hvrnK'ticjilly  closed,  and  tJiken  up  to  the  tiTnii-cs  on 
Uie  inounlaiti  side  every  few  daya  by  the  donkey  w 


•DBAINAOE  IN  THE  SOUTH.  195 

most  possess.  There  •  trend)  was  made  mund  the  baee  of 
a  tree,  the  contents  of  the  tub  mixed  with  the  roil,  and  the 
trench  closed.  Such  ii  the  primitive  system  followed  also 
throughout  Corsica  and  Sardinia  outside  of  the  two  or  three 
large  towns.  I  have  repeatedly  been  in  what  may  be  called 
feudal  residences  in  the  moantaioa  of  those  lovely  islands 
where  no  other  system  is  known,  and  who  can  say  that  it 
is  alto<rether  bad  ?  Is  it  not  deodorisation  by  earth,  the 
return  to  the  earth  of  all  excreta,  the  solution  in  coimtrr 
places  of  the  health  question,  "  What  is  to  be  done  with  it  r' 

When,  however,  hundreds,  nay  thousands,  of  strangers 
pour  into  these  little  country  towns,  as  they  have  poured 
into  Hy&res,  Cannes,  Mentone,  aud  San  Remo,  where  large 
hotels  are  built,  each  aontaining  more  than  a  hundred  people, 
and  numerous  villas  occupied  by  large  families,  tbp  state  of 
things  alters  at  once.  Main  drains,  with  collaterals,  were 
not  constructed  before  because  they  were  not  wanted.  Now 
that  thi-y  are  wanted,  are  they  the  right  thing?  If  made, 
the  only  possible  outlet  is  the  sea-sliore,  and  a  very  small 
amount  ot'driiinage  thrown  into  little  sheltered  bays  in  an 
all  but  tidelesa  SL'a  like  the  Mediterranean  would  soon 
reproduce  the  polluted  shores  of  Naples. 

After  mature  deliberation  I  hnve  come  to  the  conclu^ioD 
that  lor  villas  and  hotels,  in  gardens  of  their  own,  a  good- 
sizt'd  CL'sspooI,  isolated  from  the  house,  with  a  sound  venti- 
lating :iir-sh:il't  run  up  alongside  the  chimneys  to  the  top 
of  till!  house,  and  a  good  manure  pump  attached  to  it,  is 
the  ix^t  plan  to  deal  with  the  difticuUy.  This  is  what  is 
attempted,  but  olten  imperfectly  carried  out,  in  these 
southern  villas.  Often  there  is  no  ventilating  sbaft  at  all, 
i.r  the  latter  is  not  air-tight,  and  thus  foul  air  p.iGses  into 
the  house  by  the  closets  or  through  the  walls.  Then  such 
a  thing  as  a  manure-pump  is  generally  unknown.  On  some 
line  moonlight  night  the  cesspool  is  opened,  a  little  tub  tied 
to  a  long  polo  is  put  down,  and  the  contents  are  laboriously 
ladled  into  small  casks.  In  the  house  in  which  1  reside  I 
made  the  landlord  a  present  of  a  manure-pump  from  Lon- 
don, and  now  they  do  in  one  hour  what  used  to  take  them 
tu'o  nights,  and  with  oue-twenlieth  part  of  the  annoyance 
to  the  surrounding  community. 

o2 


196 


jrENTOJOi  tS   ITS  SOCIAL  ABPSCT. 


This  diiriculty  aliaut  drainapie  followt  tnnn  cveryivlie 
and  iioaafnues  m  much  importaooe  in  Eni^Und  as  on  t 
CoDhnent.  Xtoiidon  p1iyi>iciun«  aro  coBsUutly  sent  for  inta 
the  cooiitry  lu  soc  fimin  of  iiiu)i<^utnt  di»«iii',  fi-ver,  ciinr- 
rhna,  which  we  know  an-  the  rL-nult  of  bad  dniinuj^*?,  niid 
that  ID  elegant  coantry  residences  l>o)oa|tii>S  ^  ^''^  f^nlry 
and  nobility.  It  is  n  <]tio>tion  whether  the  water  oiit-of- 
eight-out-of-mind  Kyi!t«ni,  which  hu  mado  us  hu  fiuUdioiis 
on  tliiBseare,  liaa  not  done  more  harm  than  good.  In  ne&rly 
nil  modem  country  houscx  the  closets  are  connected  with 
what  are  called  "  percolating  cvespooU."  The  fluid  content* 
sinli  int'>  the  earth,  and  tho  volid  alone  rcmuia,  merely 
rc'iuiriiig  to  be  cleared  away  every  year  or  two.  By  degreea 
the  soil  that  separatt-s th<^ cwpoot  fVoip  the  water  levelloee* 
its  deodorising  power,  and  tlie  Buid  drainage  contaminntM 
t  lie  water  of  tlic  adjoining  wcliti.  Then  como  fcvere,  putria  , 
noi-e^throut,  diiditheria,  dysentery,  wliiuli  aurpriHe  every 
one  in  "  so  healthy  a  Bituation."  I  believe  rayeelf  that  the 
only  perfectly  safe  drainage  system  for  a  country  residence 
in  England  or  eW-whcre  i*  either  the  old-fashioned  garden 
I'UiK.rt  of  our  farming  jiDpulation,  regnlarly  d«odoruw(l  by 
L-arth  aeiv>T\ling  lo  Mr.  Aloule's  plan — a  decided  improve- 
ment, on  the  pael- — or  a  Roman  cemented  cesspool  with  B| 
nianiire<pumpfltBdiKtnneofroni  the  house.  From  this  every 
day  or  two  an  amount  of  drainage  eipnil  to  what  entera 
should  he  rv^Urly  pumped  and  applied  to  the  garden  lawn^ 
or  hind. 

The  only  way,  however,  to  prevent  towns,  in  such  si(iia-j 
lions  as  the  Genoese  llivieni,  becoming  unhealthy  Irom  theJ 
druinage  of  a  redundant   populntion  is  for  them  to  reraaiDl 
small.    It  isthi-reloreto  he  hoped  that  the  winter  emigraDts] 
from  the   north  will   diKpuree  themselves  over  the  entirol 
Riviera,  finding  out  and  olonizing  new  sites.    One  coo-l 
valeseent  hoci|)ilal,  with  UOC  inmates,  on  a  hejdlliy  eummoafl 
puch  as  that  of  M'alton-ou-Thamea,  may  remain,  with  car^ 
tiuluhrioUH  and  health-giving.     Put  four,  with  a  thousand 
iiinialea  each,  on  the  vanie  locality,  and  it  bctumes  a  quca- 
tion  whether  it  would  be  worth  while  for  them  to  leave 
London,      llie   excreta  of   man    are   poisonous,  and    all 
agglomt-rutioiiB  of  men  tend  to  breed  disease,     'tbo  fallen 


AXOLICAN  CHUKCHES — CKMETF.RY. 


107 


Jiliers  or  civilization,  the  sivk  and  ill  from  towns,  bIioiiIJ 
ok  the  ootintry,  trew,  naked  ixii^ks,  i)]>areely-iDbubitcil 
divtrtctii.  As  im  invalid  myi"^!!',  I  would  riitlior  ]>us»  lUc 
winti-r  ill  tiic  \<nre  uir  ul'  Dnrimoor  lliuu  in  the  coiitamu 
nutt'dfitmoenbereoDar^,  til  thy  soulliern  towns  like  Nftplea, 
Komi-,  and  Mulu[^,  where  the  uvcra;;i!  dur»tioti  of  life  in 
low,  where  the  ItMilthy  and  vif^ruiis  cannot  n-JU'h  tliv 
onlinury  mcdiurn  diir;tli<iii  of  miio'i  vxiHtunot!.  Ity  thuii 
c>'Ioni&in|;  a  lai-ije  ari?a,  likewise,  the  clement  of  competition 
nitl  be  brought  to  bcur, mid  it  is  the  only  mi^na  oi'  |)Uttiu>> 
an  end  to  exorbitant  demands  from  whomsoever  they  may 
sma. 
Mentone.aa  an  English  colony,  may  be  satd  to  hare  1)een 
founded  by  the  late  llcv.  Sir.  Mor^n,  an  English  olergy- 
miiii,  who  settW  tlicre  with  his  family  at  Mcutone  in  1?^57. 
The  timt  Ellgliiih  cbiireh,  the  one  in  lli«  eamern  bay,  wii* 
Uiilt  by  aub6cri|ition,  under  the  t<u|>ennteiulenee  of  Mr. 
Morgan  and  of  myself,  and  opt^ned  for  divine  wursbip  in 
H883.  THe  Uev.  Morant  Brock,  of  Uath,  la  the  present 
incninl>ent. 

The  faet  of  tliid  churoli  having  been  built  at  an  iiioon> 
veniunt  distAUce  from  those  wlio  reside  ou  the  westi-m 
iide,  bae  led  to  the  erection  of  anotbiT  and  more  olaboriito 
and  «x|M!Dsive  eliurch  in  the  western  b^y,  under  tim  din^e 
tion  of  the  Jlev.  W.  Barber,  Ute  of  Lvioenter.  The  ohitroh 
ia  in  the  early  style  of  the  Hth  eentiiiy,  and  waa  built  by 
tlie  incumbent's  son — Mr.  W.  Bailjcr. 

Ilic  town  of  McQtone  hiu  pmcntcd  to  the  Protmlant 
communily  a  plot  of  ground  for  a  cemetery  adjoining 
their  own.  It  ia  situated  on  the  vminenee  that  crowns 
the  old  town,  wheru  a  fortified  ensile  reared  its  head  iu 
funner  timet,  the  niiuH  of  which  may  still  be  seen.  It  ia 
a  peaceful,  pietiireiupte  spot,  and  is  ulrea>ty  the  hst  home 
ol  many  whoee  memory  is  dear  to  Mentuniims^  It  has  been 
KurrOUDded  by  a  wall  at  the  exjii-nsu  of  thu  Prott-slant  COD- 
greRationx,  and  a  umitll  mortuary  vhnpul  ha*  been  built,  to 
which  the  mortal  remains  of  those  ivhu  have  died  in  hotels 
ean  be  removed  and  kept  aa  long  us  the  relalivea  wish. 
There  is  no  law,  as  usiuilty  supposed,  that  renders  prompt 
.burial    ini[>eraliva  in    Franou.     The   law  only  rules   that 


198 


UENTONC:  IN    ITS  SOCIAL  A^TBLX 


no  pcnon  shall  be  kui'i«d  in  irM  than  twenly-fvur  boiiT 
tfter  dmtli  vi-rtifiitl  by  u  modKiil  mitn.  But  in  liotvis 
it  is  clifficuH  to  rwiat  tlm  "  cuntom"  of  the  ooiintr)',  wlitult 
is  in  I'uvour  of  prompt  liurial. 

A  (vvt  ymn  njpy  Mei)t«ne  was  merdy  a  small  Itiilian 
town,  liki*  lliv  ollu-r  towiiM  oit  ll)»  Illvivra,  with  but  littla 
puvror  to  Hopply  the  wauto  of  funii^ntnn,  and  t-i>|MM!tully  of 
the  Kniflisli,  who,  wliererer  they  are,  expect  to  be  made 
oomfurtahlei  Ik'in;;  aucnstoiued  In  faro  well  at  homv, 
many  of  our  couiitrynifti  Wfhcn  abrxnd,  i?*p«inlly  the  un-. 
Iruwlled,  IhU  into  a  »l»tv  uf  extmme  (Inipiiiult-rKsy  if  vallvd 
upon  to  hear  wilh  coaree  moat,  own-  bread,  anil  liad  butler. 
Every  winter,  however,  has  improved  the  markvU,  and  now 
^)od  brciul,  meat,  poultry,  f>;>-s  and  I'uttur,  aio  to  he  hiul,] 
alllioMgh  MoiDrliniox  only  nil h  u  little  trouble  and  contri- 
vance. Kaeh  winter  the  itiippliii!>  huvn  improved  in  quantity 
and  quality,  e^peeiaily  eince  thu  railway  has  been  opcnwL 
Many  of  the  Urge  hotels  gel  their  meat,  poulf  ry,  and  i; aam 
rcfjtiUily  from  Lvone,  two  or  thrte  timcj  «  wwh. 

The    MenU>uiuti    am])hitl.i'atrt^    ilKL-h'    pmiluoes     tittle ' 
if  auytiiingj  beyond  olive  oil,  lemons,  ofanKea,  and  a  few 
ri-getahles.      The    only    good    butter   comes    livim    Mihui. 
Buttcf  ix    inutle  in  the   mountjins,  but   piobaldy  not  witU 
the  eare  and  twrupiilonn  elvaiitini.-»:i   that   are   )nd)&]>eiiaal>U) j 
to   insure   ita  quality.     Tbut   ])riidiiei-d   in    the    cslensive 
poBtunij^rs  whieh  f<iirroiin(I  MiLn,  ie  well  known  nil  over 
the  north  of  Italy,  and  ix  really  very  jjoud.     Iteunirsiby 
Hlt-amer  fruni  Genoa  to  Nice  twiee  a  week,  and  is  supplietl 
to  MeDtone  from  thenee.     Poultry  reaches  from  all  part*, 
—from   tlic    mountain   icgrions   aionnd,   from    the  ooanti 
totMiH,  and  even  from  Turin.     Many  fowl*,  turkev*,  dneka, 
■re  liniii(*ht  hy  the  diligiinee  which   travels  d;iily  beueea 
Tuiin   and  Niee,  |ia-8in(f  over  the  Col  de  Tendo.     Gamv 
is  to  be  had,  hut  is  cxpen-^ive,  with  the  exciqition  uf  harec, 
Mhich  are  Tiai(>onid>lc  in  price. 

t'ltih  naa  ncarov  and  dear  before  the  railway  was  opened 
to  iNice.  Now  it  cornea  Id  (treat  ahundamw,  by  rail,  rroin 
the  Atlantic  to  Nice,  and  reaches  Menlone  in  a  t^owi  iftntu 
of  prooeivatiun,  once  the  eoul  weather  has  Mt  iti.  Thus 
»ole«,  lurlwt,  oyaters,  are  then  all  tut  doily  obtainable. 


pBOvisioxa 


19!> 


The  mutton  is  rurnisliecl  hy  tita  eurrouixling  mmttitaiii 
ni^iaaSi  rnitl  w  ivaWy  gooA.     I  have  iiucn  ti>l<l  \>y  Scoti^li 

I  gcntlecnm,  guod  Judges  in  Htich  a  oase,  tJiat  it  is  v<;iiiil  in 
the  bliKik-fiioed  mutton  of  the  Ilif»tihinds.  The  liunb  ia 
killm)  too  young,  but  is  still  wry  tuntlcr,  iiikI  good  food  for 
ioralidt.     Th«  veul  iitiiiKo  killed  yonni;,  and  itt  good.     Tho 

riieeT  is  BOmetimea  ({ood,  at  others  indiirerent,  aa  it  is  likely 
to  be  in  II  country  where  thcra  are  no  paetiirii};4.->i,  iiiiil  where 
it  iiiuit  ouiBC  from  a  |^r<;nt  dixtaimc,  ]iriiici|>ully  lVt>m  the 
|>lainA  of  Piwlmont.  An  the  poor  Mttl«  hnve  to  walk  all 
th«  way,  alon^  the  coast  or  over  the  mountains,  they  an>, 
of  course,  lean  oa  their  arrival,  however  good  the  t>reed, 
and  it  would  nob  [lay  to  fatten  them,  lu  formur  days  tlie 
ialittbiLanta  of  thuse  rugtouit  scein  to  have  been  4iiit«  satisKed 
with  the  Desk  of  old  cuwa  and  oxen. 

The  L'xpeuse  of  living  at  Meutonc  has  quite  donbled  oinL-e 
K  have  known  it,  that  u,  williin  a  period  of  filleen  yeara, 
and  is  DOW  quite  uh  liti>h  as  iit  Nice  and  C-annes.  This  is, 
however,  easily  explained  by  the  mora  luxurious  styk*  of 
livinff,  and  I  cannot  say  that  the  inhabitants  of  Munlune 
are  to  blame. 

lIouHO  rentd  have  ri^cn  very  considerahty,  owing  to  titi* 
demuud  havin|f  been  very  much  greater  thiin  tho  »u|'|dy, 
which  miees  prievi;  all  the  wort'l  over.  Mniiy  hi>ilKi?9>  aru 
ni>w  building,  or  in  conteiiiiiliition,  which  will  no  doubt 
tvnJ  to  diminish  rent»,  or  ul  teoHt  to  prevent  further  rat. 
MiiFL-over,  the  neighbouring  town  of  Sua  Itemo,  also  n  good 
winter  st«tivu,  if  be^innini;  to  bo  alivu  tj>  tlif  money  value 
of  foreign  reiidento,  and  in  ntaki»;r  greut  etforl^  to  please 
and  sfcure  them,  opening  ht>t«U  and  building  villas,  which 
will  create  a  Sidutary  diversion. 

The  uost  of  living  has  tJiuM  inurc4>cd,  hut  then  the 
niarkeU  are  inlinit«ly  better  HUpplied,  wliiuh  ut-counts  fi»r 
thu  change.  An  I  have  been  told  hv  Mi-ntoniiin  hotvl 
kevjwrs,  the  diuneni  wc  positively  roijuire  and  eiuiul  every 
day  at  Lite  hold*  and  "|fen«io»!i"  are  to  thum  fejttive 
dinners,  which  ihey  never  dream  of  unle-u  to  wetcotne 
friuads  lor  a  raarriitge  or  ii  baptism.  To  provide  this  hi-rh 
oUuilard  of  lood  t^  in. my  hundred  ntniii'^jirrs,  Uio  eo'iniry 
liiu  U>  bj  lUJMekud  for  a  himdred  and  liiiy  luiltw  around  i 


200 


MENTONE  IK   ITS  SOCIAL  AHPKCT. 


(Iciioa,  Turin,  Milan,  Nice,  are  all  iiut  under  contribution. 
In  otiier  words,  onr  standard  of  livinj;.  and  Uiat  of  our 
Americwi  ooueips,  is  very  iniic-))  higher  than  that  of  con- 
tin«ntiil  peojile  in  p;i)i?Tul,  and  i-K|>i'diiliy  of  Oiv  inWIiitiints 
orooiiUu'rn  Kurope.  Wo  ni«  »<>  ready,  liki-wlsi*,  as  a  nation, 
to  go  to  uny  fi-asib)«  expense  to  obtain  what  we  want,  thai 
we  iuevitably  donblu  lol^al  piiccs  wherever  we  Httln  in  anyj 
number,  and  tltitt  all  the  world  ovvr. 

As  yuur  by  year  Uic  niimlN-r  of  winter  visitors  and  resi- 
deiita  increasee,  llieir  wants  and  rt^uiremenls  become  better 
supplied;  thf  invulid  pupubtiun  itbilf  partly  providing  for 
tbi-m.  Thus  eviriy  winlur  bringn  invalid  profr««ont  iiml 
nrti^ts,  willing  and  able  to  muke  tbenuielvei  uNeful.  There 
li  also  a  l''i'tni-li  communal  college,  tlie  prorpscora  of  whicb 
ure  oil  woll  i-ducnled,  iDtcUigeut  men,  who  fetch  French,. 
Ilniiiin,  and  elasvieit. 

Fur  Boiiie  years  there  Itua  keen  a  Book  Club  id  connexion 
with  Mudie'a,  whii:ti  works  very  well.  New  books  are 
received  in  November  iiud  January,  and  at  the  end  of  the  ' 
»-aeun  the  siirphi*  I'lind*;  iiru  employed  in  the  purehiue  of  | 
•ume  of  the  more  permunttntly  vulimblo  workK.  There  is , 
already  a  very  fair  eolleotion  of  modern  books  in  hand,  m  ; 
the  nucleus  of  a  library. 

Thi»ru  are  Huvcrnl  bankers  at  KIcntone,  and  English 
chc[[uc»  ate  reccivMl  and  eaiihr^  al  tinve  with  a  proper 
introduction.  'Ihe  hotel -ketpei^,  landlords,  and  princi)<a) 
IrudcHpcopIc  also  iicerpt  cheques  from  welbknown  tenants 
und  cuKtomcnt  witJiout  uny  dilTicidty,  as  they  eauily  get 
them  uushed  at  the  banks.  Indci'd,  at  limt,  thin  implicit 
reliance  ou  English  honour  was  carried  too  far.  Cata- 
strophes connecte<l  with  the  proximity  of  Monaco  hara 
latterly  made  all  parlieK  more  cnrcful  m  lo  solvability. 

Mentone  uflers  great  attraction  to  invalided  arlixls,  for 
they  can  both  attend  to  their  lieultb  and  study  their  art 
in  tnidninter  in  the  open  nir.  The  Fcenerj'  is  ^(lorious,  and 
the  play  ut  the  HunKhinc  and  of  li)i,ht  and  »hudow  on  the , 
mountains,  on  the  clu\ids,  and  on  the  sea,  prodnevs  vver- 
viirj'ing  elTect«,  whicli  t'otrance  the  artist's  eye.  Sometimee 
their  profetuonal  KCrvicCf  eun  be  enlixled,  and  landscape^ 
drawing,  and  jiaiuting  cIusbcs  are  formed. 


THE  RESIDENTS — TSB   VISITOIW. 


201 


A  u-inter  ]>uie^  at  Mentone  in  u  dmma,  a  lillle  epitome 
of  life.  The  [iluoe  in  »o  small,  so  aepoiratcd  by  its  iDoiiiitain 
barrwrs  Trum  tlic  rc«t  of  tho  world,  and  the  numU-r  of 
KCtdent  Ktrangvnt  i*  to  limited,  that  n  kind  of  common  tiu 
binds  tJiein  togetlier.  This  fueling  may  iint  extend  to  the 
entire  torei^^  oommiiDily,  but  it  is  very  strong  iimon>r  tho 
mcmlwra  of  tliu  eimui  nutioti.  It  w  tlie  ssuiw  ftuliii);  of 
union,  of  n  oommtm  oii^in  iind  olijt-i't,  Unit  fxixtx  among 
the  inesengera  of  a  stii|i  on  a  loii^  m-ti  vuvBt^e.  It  Joes  not, 
of  course,  include  |)as?in}>  strnu^rc,  tbe  visitors  from  Nice, 
and  iboeo  who  only  remain  a  fi'W  days  or  necks  tn  autumn 
and  spring,  on  thoir  u-ny  to  or  from  Italy;  they  atv  looked 
upon  aa  itian^n.  Tim  Mentuuian  family  is  composed  of 
the  winter  reeideut?,  of  those  who  Iiave  made  up  their 
minds  to  niwnd  six  month«  in  the  happy,  smiling;,  Mcntonian 
amphillii-atre. 

In  October  the  tjuestion  u — who  is  coming?  In  No. 
verober  neuriy  all  the  winter  residentv  have  arrived,  and 
liavu  located  themselves.  Friends  Iind  eachothtr;  uuforc' 
Hccn  pointt  of  eoiituct  "  at  homv"  arc  brought  out,  and 
little  erunpii  are  formed  of  intimdtcx,  of  tlxfw  who  have  tlie 
same  ideas  and  sym]iiitliies.  A  kind  of  general  notion  also 
Itepns  to  g«t  abr->ii(I  im  In  who  is  (he  invalid  in  each  family, 
and  of  the  d-jfu^c  of  illiic**. 

Owing  to  my  rccommendAtions  having  been  followed  by 
my  medical  brethren  in  Kngland,  very  few  extreme  hopeless 
casts  of  illn«M,  in  the  very  fiuit  stage  of  disease,  are  now  sent 
outt  and  there  are  few  or  no  canualtics  among  the  Englivh 
during  the  lir«t  rouiith  or  two.  But  it  ia  very  ditF<;nut 
with  the  French. 

By  ntuvt  of  our  countrymen  and  women  the  order  to 
winter  in  the  touih  is  considered  a  boon,  an  opportunity  of 
indultfing  the  darling  wish  of  seeing  the  world,  and  a  real 
coRsoUtJon  in  illness.  To  the  French,  on  the  cuntrar)',  it 
is  the  last  drop  of  bittemces  in  the  cup  of  sorrow.  Tho 
French  cling  <ti>>ipcral«ly  to  home,  to  family  tii-s,  and  to 
their  own  country,  in  illneM  a*  in  health,  and  can  with 
((Teat  difficulty  be  persuaded  to  leave,  however  severe  their 
malady.  Perhaps,  aUo,  their  medical  men  have  not  tho 
•Btne  faith  in  eltangc  of  climate  that  wc  have.     Hener, 


202 


HBNTOSi:   IN    ITS  SOC^IAL    AKPBCT. 


ciicli  winter,  I  wc  French  piitivnU  arnve  in  the  Inst  iitikee' 
of  plilliwij^— «u  ill,  indeed,  tliat  tlieir  bearini;  tlie  jouniev  is  < 
&  autiject  of  Burpriae.     A  very  few  wpcke  alter  thoir  iirriviil , 
thv  last  sratrk  of  vitnl  power  •fivtw  wuv,  nni]  tliuy  rail,  liko 
uuttimn  IcHvcM  liofore  th«  fii>l  blmt  of  winter.     Tlicy  are 
ttathered  to  tlieir   lutht'iv,  nud   the   Hrst  wnil  of  lament 
nriscB  on  the  southern  ^hore,  wixtrL'  they  h;ivo  arrivod  oiiljr 
^>  di«. 

Among  Lhir  peculiar  xightA  and  ceremoniea  that  meet  the 
eye  of  a  Atrah^LT  un  hin  lirst  arrival  in  an  Italian  town 
and  Mmitone  really  is  Italian — none  U  inoi«  striltin-*  thaa ' 
Umi  funeriiU  of  the  dead.     The  rank'  eummunity  w  nil  hub  , 
divided  in  tivu  fraternitii*,  tlial  of  the  "  WiuLtntfl  Noirs,"' 
and  that  of  the  "  FiJiiitcnt*  U!««i»."     The  formci-  dress  io 
«  black   ?owi),  the  latter  in  a   white  one,  TOiichitf^'  to  U10  [ 
feci,  and  with  a  (^inllv  round  the  waist.     Tli<-y  uUo  wear  n.] 
eowl  of  the  Mtnie  colour  drawn  over  ibe  head  and  face, 
leaving  only  the  eyca  to  appear.     They  follow  the  priesta 
and  ehori^ters,  the  former  in  full  canonit^uls,  two  by  Iwo,  to 
tb«  number  of  fiiVy  or  a  huiiiln.d,  with  u  taper  in  their 
haDdN,  chanting  the  jwulmi^  tW  ihv  dead.     Kvury  one  tliey 
meet,  jitnniU  Htill  and  takes  his   Intt  olf.     The  appenmave 
of  the  whole  proeee^ion  is  very  noird  and  iTr>p<j«ing,  not  to 
fiiy  KhiMtly ;  it  i«  a  homage  [wid  hy  the  living;  Vu  the  dfjid! 

Then  comes  the  eloae  of  tiie  year,  (^hrintiuaa,  with  its 
home  assoeiatirus,  and  the   new  and  wondrnua  6i;H>t  of 
Slimmer  sunshine  and  Lemon  blossoms,  of  Ur^c  drui^n- 
tliei',  and  of  otlur  tnMvtti,  pursuing  e.aeh  other  in  the  hud,  ' 
^Btead  of  th(>  bleet  and  »now  and  nlooin  wbieh  ue  romember,. j 

.<]  of  which  wo  rvjid,  in  the  fatherland,    •^omclimi-s,  bow-^ 
ever,  snow  tips   even  our   muuntains,  and    i-iniindx  ii«  of') 
home.     But  Uie  contnul   in   then   all   the  more  Hrikiiigr' 
between  the  snow-crowued  mountains  which  ffirt  as,  and 
the  Slimmer  Knnshine  and  summer  vittetation  hy  whidi  wo- 
arc  Kiirriinmli.-d.      Ijater,  com^  the  new  year,  wcleonied  at 
Alentonu  ui  in  Krance,  and  the  fextivilivii  of  tlie  Itomish 
Chiirt.'b.     lysut,  the  Holy  Weielt,  the  ('arnival,  are  all  oele- 
bnited  according  to  the  traditions  of  the  Middle  Ages,  in  A', 
vi'ry  pictu rest) tic  manner,  by  the  native  population,  iw  iaij 
the  large  towns  of  Italy. 


WILD   KLOWKRS. 


203 


A1)out  the  moQlh  or  Fvl>ruiiry  tl)o  Eui^lish  oommiinilj* 
ill  ila  turn  hv/nt  t»  xiitlur.  Sdiik;  ut'  tli<:  iiiviiHdK  liiivv 
)ttni;;L;lt.tl  in  vain  for  henltli  anil  lilW.  Clmii;:«  of  ditimtv, 
mL'Jiiail  ttealmmit,  tlie  devoted  siHt-ction  itiiil  litndor  care  of 
frienils,  liave  in  vsiu  b»ltle>l  with  thv  uiv^l  of  iK-ulb.  HiM 
nppitMcluw  itlthoii^lt  kIow  Iiavc  IriMtn  nun:,  utiii  lliin  lifu  hu 
tu  W  ttbunUuned  lor  a  better.  The«  iIuuiIih  oa^t  a  gloom 
mi  all  tU«  cominunily.  TIik  dyparttsl  hav«  i-nJcared  liiom- 
selvL-B  la  the  eurvivurs ;  they  havti  Uvt-il  iimon^«(  them,  Ihcy 
Imvc  »hiiivtl  lhi;ir  joys,  tliuir  mirrowN,  lln-ir  oxtlc  fwling*. 
The  lu9H  in  felt  U>  be  a  oonimon  loss ;  it  igi  Ihut  iif  thi;  )ia»* 
Hi'iiger  who  has  lived  fur  moolhs  in  the  Mme  ship,  sut  at 
the  sani«  tulile,  wulkcil  the  kioic  duek. 

At  UiKt  Almroh  and  April  arrive,  the  glorioiu  southern 
Rpriii-;,  thv  real  Hprinir  uf  the  old  xuuthirrn  poeLi,  of  Hoinur 
and  Anaureon,  ol  Horace,  Viryil,  and  Lucretius.  Our  own 
norttieni  pouts,  iiiicoitsciutisly  iiniut  n;;  thi-ir  Ora^rk  and 
Kuiiiiui  preduueHsura,  describe  spring;  ats  it  in  Been  in  Ureew 
iinil  Italy,  nnl  iia  it  iiecnnt  in  unr  boreal  vlimuti).  liciictt 
Uic  feeling  oi  irritation  vte  all  *fX]>erienue  when  every  year 
with  ve  Bprin);  amvos,  and  instwid  of  balmy  zephyrs  and 
auQshiniv  with  a  prufiisioii  uf  Flora's  ooiiijuutonn,  it  only 
brin*pt  void,  bitiit);  MoTlh-<:aiit  windii,  oflen  witii  iiletft 
and  nnuw  and  a  I'rost-buund  aotl.  At  Metitone,  with  the 
meeptiou  of  u  few  dayii  of  fonth  wind  and  min  in  March, 
the  iHielicul  Kpriii;;  hint  urrivvd.  Ti.e  Olivo  and  Orail<^ 
turraoc"  an;  enamelled  hy  nature  wjtli  rcnl  uanlvn  Howcr*, 
and  day  afti^r  day  truopti  of  viniLoi^,  pfiiiei|)ally  Knglisfa, 
may  be  TCoa  rcturnin<'  from  mountain  excursiona,  llower 
laden. 

1  would,  in  paM^ing,  earm-Htly  reipivnt  vl^iitoni  not  to 
pay  the  ditldren  and  ilie  donkey-women  lor  seeking  and 
brm^int;  them  fluwerx.  Some  uf  our  moni  wtralthy  rv*id«nt« 
do  ao  oouasioiially,  without  rull^-etint;  tiiiit  by  lliiM  acting 
they  are  giving  a  inarkcl  value  to  wild  lluwer.i.  Tlie  reHuit 
has  been  felt  idreaily.  Feaiunta,  who  fornii-rly  dcliifhtod 
to  allow  cliildrcn  and  alrangere  to  ^alher  th«  violets  and 
lUtwerH  i>f  III)  value  whatever  to  tXivinwelviw,  begin  to  guard 
clieui  Juiloiwly,  and  to  drive  otf  all  who  altvmpt  to  piolc 
tbeni.     Wore  thia  to  beixKutt  ge»enil,  half  the  viiarui  uf 


204 


MENTOXE  IS  ITS  SOCIAL  ASPECT. 


till'  moiiDtain  unlks  would  lie  di-Mroypd.  I  woitlil 
urj:*!  on  nil  not  to  [lull  ti|t  flowcrt  Ity  tin-  root*,  or  to  allour 
children  and  aerraiita  to  do  mi;  and  not  to  wantonly 
di'Blro)-  and  deface  flowering  shrube,  or  to  pull  up  rnro 
FeniH  1)1)1  wniitud  fur  prp*ervation,  OtlievwiBn  ttic  moiin- 
tain  valluya  :ind  tttrnton  will  unon  lH-(,>ome,  in  nil  iLi-ueKniblo 
rP);ioii»,  a  wilderness,  and  f^row  iiol)iii)g  but  the  vegetables 
Mown  in  them. 

Olio  of  Uiu  i^reat  eharms  of  a  residrnce  in  the  nior« 
&)ielt«i'ed  n^^ion  of  the  Itivitrra  i«  thut  wild  llnwer^,  aa  we 
have  seen,  may  W  found  throiiglioul  llie  winter.  At  the' 
samv  timo,  until  Matili  has  arrived,  they  do  not  prow 
wild  Kixrli  iirotnsion  as  to  take  away  from  the  pteHFiirc  of 
t«un-hin^  and  liiiding.  It  is  tnn<{ular  that  Uiv  love  of 
flowers  abotild  churuoterini;  thv  two  oxtreniest  of  life,  early 
uhildhood  and  odvancintf  years.  Between  tlie  two  thvro 
IK  a  Mtage  of  fvvei'i^h  interest  in  the  world  and  il«  doin>rs, 
tJiat  ^•ncrully  tjkes  the  mind  away  from  the  oln<«rvatioa 
of  nature  and  hi-r  workH.  TlH^  oliild  fan-N  not  for  kings  or 
emniree,  for  ambition  or  i1^  toys,  so  it  pours  unl  its  lova 
and  cnthiifaiasni  on  "  wild"  (towers.  The  old,  who  hav*: 
gone  ihrou^li  all  (ht-  pleasiiree  and  cxcili-meiit*  the  world 
can  ^ive,  oili-n  ruttirn  to  the  jova  of  their  cliildliood,  to 
rature's  pru.luctionH,  and  cnltiviite  with  love  "garden 
tlowen>,"  ir.  the  eompaiiy  of  whii-h  they  6nd  a  partial  solaM 
for  all  they  huvc  loKt  or  failed  to  i^ain. 

It  has  been  said,  truly,  tliui  a  love  of  fluwer«  and  of  tbvir 
cultivation  is  "the  last  inlirniity  of  sober  minds."  Fortu- 
nate it  i»  that  Kiicli  sliuiild  be  thu  ca^c,  llnit  iix  w<-  udvanc* 
in  life  evfn  jiluin  mutter  of  (act  pvuple  nhould  lind  acHiie 
earthly  joys  that  do  not  ]iall,  for  age  la  olteu  "weary  to 
bear."  \\v  hare  to  abandon,  one  by  one,  those  who 
fo^tvu-d  an<l  cherished  onr  early  atepe,  who  shared  our 
hopes  and  fi'mix,  who  eympathiu'd  will)  iia  in  our  auccess, 
Were  pained  liy  our  failure.  It  is  the  penally  we  musl  pa 
for  living,  to  lose  those  with  whom  lite  has  been  wnip;^ 
up,  to  find  ourselves  abaudoned  in  our  earthly  pdgrimuf^ 
ill  wid  Mucit-ssion  by  th<M=e  without  whoec  companions! 
life  itself  often  becomes  hard  to  It^ar. 

Aa  we  advance  in  life  we  ate  like  a  regiment  of  soldi 


our 
es8,^ 

^^ 
pea     ~ 


THE   END  OF  THE  SE.VSOS. 


205 


stonniDg  B  well-ilerondKd  fortress  on  a  bill.  Our  cocDradeH 
fnll  at  our  siiJ<-E,  aiiJ  «bovo  the  din  of  Intttlo  sound* 
tbe  voice  ol'  the  uffiucr,  calling,  "  PM  in,  Si'rre:  let  rang*." 
So  Wtt  do  fall  in,  until  it'  lee  yr^x,  neur  tliv  wuminil,  but 
very  few  ofthosu  who  wi-re  Milh  ua  at  tbo  start  remain  nt 
our  i:idL«. 

The  Horruwin;^  rriun<1i<  o!  Ibi-  d<-piirtt!d  are  gi>no.  Th« 
■unrivora,  impraved  both  in  health  and  spiriu,  are  more 
keenly  nlive  thmt  ever  to  the  hnrmouii's  and  lKautii.'«  of 
thv  not,  llw  «lcy,  the  mminluinH,  and  the  i-urth.  Plum  for 
the  future,  which  earlii-r  in  thti  winter  ap)>eared  too 
uncertain  to  be  contemjilited,  are  once  more  taken  inlo 
consider 4tipn,  and  the  journey  homcwiirde  is  thought  of. 
Moreover,  NicK  then  wnA*  to  Mentona  troops  of  hwiltliy, 
pleasurc-^^eekini^  people,  utroii;;,  gay,  and  happy.  They 
are  merely  anxious  for  novelty  and  mountain  excursions, 
and  di-Hirotu  to  iMunpc  the  Murch  wiudii,  mor«  trying  with 
Utoin  than  with  us. 

Then  ootnea  the  comparing  of  rouUw  fi»r  the  return 
hume,  of  i^ans  for  the  eumuit-r,  and  Tinully  the  Icave-takinj; 
and  departure.  Aloat  are  tony,  at  bst,  to  leave  the  little 
•uuny  Mi-dileri-!ine.in  nook  when-  they  huve  Hpent  many 
happy  )ii>ur<,  and  it  in  to  be  hopeil  recovered  health,  or  at 
IvoKt  arreted  the  progress  of  oerious  disease.  In  many 
oasea  more  friendahips  have  been  fortned  tlian  would  kave 
Leen  formed  in  year*  at  home,  atnl  Uie  new  atnl  valued 
friundN  hare  t4)  be  ahundoned  us  well  as  itmiling  Mentone. 
In  many  iuatanvee,  however,  the  separation,  both  from 
friends  and  Mentone,  is  only  a  temporary  one;  there  is  the 
l)opu  of  again  meeting. 

To  the  phyaioiati,  however,  who  proetises  in  auch  a 
locality,  among  eueh  a  community,  th^re  is  a  bright  side 
to  de|url4iie.  It  closes  an  cw  of  pain,  of  sorrow,  of  suffer- 
iug  witnwRied,  alleviated  it  is  l*>  Iw  liopinl  by  his  efliirta, 
and  certainly  shared  through  fiympalhy.  Away  from 
C'liintry,  family,  and  friends,  the  tie  between  the  iinysi<;ijti 
and  bis  MtienCs  beeomes  very  close,  very  sln>ng,  muuli 
more  so  tliun  at  homo.  Their  soetnl  a»  well  att  their  phy- 
sical  suireriugs  and  trials  thus  find  in  him  a  sympathetie 
echo,  and  Ins  part  becomes  doubly  trying.     Iriu  actively 


20G 


MENTJNE   IS    ITS  SOCIAL   ASPtaT. 


ongnfr".'*!  phy*imn  is  truly  a  cturmy  pctwK  Whew  th#re^ 
in  lii-iillh  uiid  lin|i|iitics3,  inirtb  and  joy,  he  does  not  appL>»r ; 
he  hns  not  the  time,  he  is  not  nanted.  Ilis  minixtry  begins 
wliun  ill-heiillh  uihI  Borrow  show  tlieiiiM-lvii>  As  in  Uii>  old' 
lulih)  hi'  in  nin'ii}')!  roHing  !<tom-.H  U)t  the  hJII ;  onm,  hnueverj 
the  st«ne  has  reoc-hed  the  sumtuit,  it  dues  not  neceeearil 
rotl  dawn  Bcain  1  IT  he  has  to  tlixt-ml,  it  is  to  fetch  tt  nv 
»toiie,  not  the  rmmv ;  kw  thut,  tttXcr  all,  he  i«  Ix-tltT  olT  tha 
)iui>r  Sinytduis;  1  Am  profoundly  ci>n»cioiifi  thiil  one  { 
mv  |>riii(-'i]>al  motives  for  penimhnlnlin^  the  Mediterrntien' 
in  April  ihh\  May,  lik«  lTly»«.*  of  old,  diirin;,'  ihc  luff 
lii^4-<-n  yonm,  hnit  been  to  recover,  by  communion  with 
nattite,  Irom  the  depre«flion  of  feelinif  produced  by  fix 
monthft'  concent  ration  of  thought  on  Mid  t'urms  of  htiinnn 
Biitfcrinft.  Tlic  rwrnudy  »iiccecd».  Kvt-ry  y(!ur  I  rvtiirn  to 
my  Engliiih  home  "  n-joicitig,"  ready  ii^iiin  to  encounter 
the  luitllo  of  pro  fees  iun  a  I  hfe. 

Such  iH  MenloDL-,  physically  and  materially.     I  was  to 
pleaved  uith   my  6r«t  it-siilence  there  that  1  should  hav«i 
at  once  decided  on    retuniine  the  foUowiiiu  winter,  had  i 
not  b«Mru   for  tho  love  of  change,  which  imp>-i1e«l  me  to 
march  tor  ■  still  better  climate.     Thin  dentre  for  chango 
a  leatnre  in  the  invalid  population  met  with  in  theeonth 
Europe,     Change  ofwcne  in  income  respects hcnefioial  in  it 
o|K>ratioti,  by  giving  ilie  mind  fresh  objeitu  of  interest,  b;^ 
takiii);  llii<  tnoiighte  from  eelf,  and  from  the  ntanv  t'acrilicea 
whioh  hcnilh  exih*  from  humf,  and  thcirrompniiion?,  have 
to  niakf.     The  (liffervnoe  between  thr  umiling  Kunvhine  of 
a  Men  tone- winter,   a   mere    long   Kngli*b    autumn,   and 
oar  sis  months'   dismnl   8en*>on   is   very   grf*'.  and   yefcl 
thuiv  .iro  few  of  the  vhovrlul  Mcntotiian  exiles  who  wonl< 
not   gladly  return   to  our  olou<l-»luwiirrd  islani)    nt  a»: 
time,  were  it  prudent  and  pt-ssibte. 

The  wari'h  after  an  unimpeachable  climate,  however, 
in  «omv  nvpcctr,  like  that  for  Ihc  philowpherV  nloiie,  lor 
the  elixir  of  life,  or  tor  thu  (]iiadrature  of  the  eti-cl« — a 
fruitless  ore.  This  will  he  exemplified  bv  my  travels  in  tlie 
Mfditeimnetin  and  its  inlands,  as  detailed  in  tho  sultsequent 
chapters. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

"WKfTEBS  ITALY— THE  TWO  KIVIKRA3 — EASTEBS  ITALV.  ' 

"O  linly.  l">w  l^tintifuMtfiu  iirt! 
Yot  I  c<nild  ww(>— I'or  Ihoa  ivrt  ijiBg,  aU*, 
Low  in  tbu  du4t;     .... 

—But  why  iU9i|iftirf    Tiriot  hut  thoii  lived  alrwd^i 
I'wki.'  iiboiii-  iim<>n(f  thi-  luitioa*  oTthn  tcorld. 
At  \\i«  Dun  nliiiii^H  uni'jutj  Ititf  IctiteT  ILflita 
Of  h<aTi?i(  ;  tNP  KiiaT.T  jir.MX.     'the  buur  tiluill  c««ii« 
Whan  tlu-y  wlio  Ibink  to  bind  tli«  iHlirionl  ipiiit 
Wlio.  lil«  Uw  iiiBk  oowcriiiK  oVr  hia  ptoj. 
Wnlcli  with  ijtiii.'k  '.■_vi.-.  ii'i>l  strike  utiil  rtnkv  again 
If  but  u  iiiicvr  ribrutv.  Hliali  uonfvu 
Tbeir  wtwlotn  ron;."    .... 

BiMi Kits'  Holy. 

A1.T110C011  plMii>«<l  with  my  fin>t  winter  at  MontODf,  I  won 
unsiouii,  the  tiillowiti;;  »ittiiinn  (I80U),  to  lind  a  still  hellet 
climultt,  and,  lik«  omihi  invnlids,  1  tlionplit  I  might  as  well 
MM)  tliL-  world,  and  thiiE  combine  pluueuri.'  and  protit.  Like 
most  invuiiiU,  hI«»,  I  wjivvii-d  Ix-lwivn  many  {diuiiw. 

As  lon){  aa  jiulruutiiii y  vonaumption  was  coiiMJdered  a 
»l>fcios  of  inttanimutory  disease  of  tti«  lunifs,  a  w^rm  anil 
rntlivr  moiht  wintrr  climate  wiu  niiii;>di.T<-d  n^lit  lor 
consuinptivu  atitreruni.  Itui  now  tho  motv  unl it'll kiietl 
incmWrB  of  tlie  n>e4liMl  pnttetiBiun  know  thai  tiibereulnr 
divi-iuw  of  the  liin^rfi  ie  in  reality  a  malady  ot  tJiu  blood  and 
of  tlio  dilative  syntcm,  a  diauHM  of  lowoivd  gcneml  vitality, 
and  that  deatit  can  mily  Ijo  nv<Hded  by  the  reaovatton  of 
tb(t  general  keattli.  What  I  had  to  look  for,  Ihifreforc, 
wan  a  dry,  sunny,  mild  winter  flimutfl,  in  or  near  Hurope, 
prexvnliii;:  nilviiiita)^i-9inK  gmit,  if  not  greater,  than  recently 
ilitK-overi.'d  Mfiitoui;. 

I  thi-nfure  dctfrmitied  thii^  timi;  to  timi  my  iteiw  townrdu 
Italy,  and  to  criticnlly  vxnmiuu  the  Ijiwtvrn  Riviera,  I'iaa, 


208 


THE  EASTERN    RIVIERA. 


Rome,  Naples,  and  the  more  southern  const  of  Italy. 
Guided  bv  n  previously  acquircil  pcreoniil  knowk-di^  of  tlie 
country,  by  tin;  iuformntioii  nbtiinn-d  during  tht"  (trgceding 
winter,  and  by  the  n-jtorla  of  oilier  obsi-rvere  and  writerfl, 
]  felt  eant>uin<.'  as  to  Hndin;;  in  Italy  an  "Eldorado"  COti 
Lining  all  the  advantages  of  whith  I  wax  in  Ki'iirtth, 

In  fornu^r  dayn,  in  the  daya  of  health  and  utrcnn^tli, 
Itidy  fixm-Ued  over  me,  as  over  all  those  whiise  minds  are 
imbued  with  the  history  of  the  post,  nn  indi'^criliabtc  fnsiM- 
nation.     Hovcral  timw  I  cwuped  from   thi-  biwy  secnn  of 

fr»re!tiiii>nAl  lifi%  and  ru«1ied  to  vinit  its  cities  and  plains. 
Is  chissii-ul,  historical,  and  artistic  souvenirs  and  attrac- 
tions tlirew  over  it  a  charm  that  never  pullod.  I  then 
Eur|>oi^t-ly  threw  ii«idi-  the  phyKlciuii,  in  order  to  Kue  nothing 
tit  riiiii»,  liattle  liebU,  paintings,  and  statues.  Sickness 
and  human  decay  appeared  a  profanation,  and  I  strove  to 
forgtrt  tlicm,  so  as  to  hriay:  back  none  but  pi (.-ueii ruble  r«* 
miiiiecenwu. 

NupU-K  wan  the  nouthern  city,  lying  on  the  lovely  bay 
wliera  rises  fire-crowned  Vesuvius,  where  the  revealed  citieo 
of  llercidnneum  nod  Pompeii,  Bniro,  the  Islands  of  Capri 
and  Isc'hia  rcciill  n  thxiisiind  roeolk-elion;.  Hiimo  wait  the 
fimiier  imocn  of  the  worKI,  the  cradle  of  Chriiiti unity,  still 
studded  with  innumerable  vestiges  of  its  ancient  ^andoiir. 
Florem-e  was  "  La  Bella  Firenzc"  of  Dnnte,  the  homo  of 
the  Mcdiri,  the  ubiide  of  ooimtlt'iui  urtiMic  IrooKurcx.  Pisa 
was  the  birthplace  of  Galileo,  where  the  lamp  thai  first 
rvveided  to  him,  when  a  youth,  the  laws  of  the  pendulum  is 
yet  to  l)c  »ee»  owjillating  in  the  glorious  viilhodrid.  Whilrt 
Genoa  was  the  proud  coinmerciul  eity  of  former  dayx,  «till 
(;randly  overhanging  the  sea  it  once  ruled,  still  full  of 
monuments  and  puhu-es. 

This  time  the  &cene  had  ehiingrd.  I  returned  to  Italy 
an  invalid  in  search  of  health,  and  the  arta  »ank  into 
insif^niGcancc,  whilst  hyttiene,  climate,  and  health  quea- 
lionn  nded  the  diiy.  With  views  thus  altered,  dif- 
ferent impressions  were  produced,  and  iiD|H>r'.ant  medical 
facts  became  evident,  which,  as  a  touriat,  I  had  not 
iwrwivtrd. 

I  entirred  lloly  by  Mouut  Cenis,  and  although  it  woa 


GENOA. 


209 


Obly  tW  2OII1  Octolter,  IIimb  wn«  a  (jreaf  deal  of  siiftw  on 
the  mmtntiiinx,  «nil  it  Wiw  very  cold  in  the  liiijlicr  ipffions. 
~jiile«d,  the  weather  was  muoh  too  i^old  for  ohttit  iiivuliil*, 

rho,  if  they  otoas  the  Alps  should  do  so  earlier. 

Oeomi  U  not  so  much  a  tncdiuni  Httilion  tw  a  re«tin<^plaoe 
for  truvcllrn  uiii]  iiiTnlitlH  entering  or  leaving  Italy.  Its 
Btluiition  IB  admirable,  st  the  ani;)e  of  the  gulf  formed  by 
the  outteni  and  western  Rivii-nifi,  protectm}  by  inountains, 
and  expoitod  tu  llm  Miith-wcxU.-rii  aim.  Heiioo  it  in  vcr  ' 
warm  iii  stuniiniT,  but  in  winter  the  proUwtion  atrurded  by 
the  Apennines  is  incomplete,  owing  to  a  "defect  in  its 
armour."  Drhind  Genoa  the  A|H-i)tiin»i  present  vnllcye, 
throuf^U  wliicb  llie  milroad  fnim  Turin  has  tnrinu^cd  to 
Gtid  its  way,  and  tlirougb  which  also  the  north-east  wind 
reiu;hee  the  town  when  winter  has  fairly  set  in  on  the 
plains  of  Limiliiirdy.  Still  the  protection  is  suHicient  to 
make  the  climate  perfectly  different  to  that  of  lliese  plains 
in  autumn  and  spring.  On  the  i2nd  of  October  there  was 
kboMTycoM  fo<;'when  1  lefl  Turin,  which  continued  until 
W«  raachctl  the  rofiantain  [hubi!*,  tumpleli-ly  obxcurin^  the 
borjxon  ;  winter  was  everywhere,  Ihu  trees  leafless,  and] 
the  soil  denudwJ.  The  fof;  had  lefl  us  when  we  emGi^»od  ' 
from  the  fint  tunnel,  and  t)ie  air  had  hoeoine  olear,  dry, 
md   bniicin);.     On   escaping   from   the   last   tanncl,  near 

^enoa,  we  had    (foae  back   to   midsummer;    the  sky  was 
hie,  the  sun  bn;;hl,  the  air  warm,  the  windows  and  doors 

rere  wido  o|i<'n,  and  the  outiloor  life  of  Italy  vrua  in  ftill 
operation.  It  was  indeed  difficult  to  believe  that  half  an 
hour — the  \taff^'ffe  by  a  tunnel  through  a  mountain— 
could  be  attended  with  auch  a  cluinge  in  the  n^pi'Ct  of 
nature. 

Oenoa  jtnemts  two  fftt^t  di<iadvanla^e ;  it  i«  a  dcnwly 
bpopululei)  Hty,  and,  like  nil  Italian  tuwim,  badly  drained, 
■nd  unhvpenicnlly  built.  In  alt  tar^e  towns  in  Italy, 
Turin  excepted,  the  streets  are  very  narrow,  generally  only 
a  few  feel  wide.  The  object  was  110  iloubt  twofold  :  lintly, 
to  provide  for  the  exigencies  of  fortiljesl ion,  and  aeoondly, 
to  exehide  the  sun,  the  summer  enemy.  Tbe  towns  and 
villugeit  now  found  in  the  Koiith  are  all  htatorieal ;  tbera 
arf  no  nties  iiVe  Ihe  buay  Uirivitis:  tiauesshire  marts,  thv 

I' 


210 


the:    EASTl^RN   RIVIERA. 


ptuiliicl  of  maniifitcti]Tx;r«'  »ctivily  in  trmilcrn  times.  TIi« 
towns  and  viIIiii^l-h  are  ttnwe  of  t)i<;  >[i<litl<;  Agee,  anil  uh 
such  circumsorilted  within  wnlU  and  foitiiiculioiis,  .iiul 
perchi'd  upon  licifrlit«  for  prf-tfclioii.  juBt  ns  tlicy  wcru 
liundrvdH  lit'  vMirK  ii|^.  Such  ii  atylc  of  urfliitivliiri- 
proverbially  unb«altliy,  ettpeciullr  in  tlie  soutli,  amoiitt«t 
popiilntion  tn  whom  the  cIuaiilincM  nnd  the  exnntions  of 
modi-rn  civilixiituin  an  a*  yi't  hut  Utile  Icnnwn.  To  vtuivn 
the  nhtile,  the  principal  \Kilv\it  nt  (>enoa  nru  on  the  pi)rt, 
thv  rcocptacle  ol'  nhiit  drains  there  are,  and  tidelos,  aK'iir 
all  pcirls  in  the  M<;<liU-rriini.-iiii. 

Uwlnj;  lo  the  ahove  rauses,  iilthr.ii^ti  to  tlit"  travfllur  ono 
of  thi'  moel  piclureiiijiie  and  intercHtini;  towns  of  the 
Mviliterruncan,  tbv  native  city  of  CcihimhuH  is  not  a 
healthy  abod«.  11m  invalid,  therefore,  had  better  nti 
prolong  hi*  Btny,  unle&e  he  have  the  command  of  a  earden 
euiTOundcd  villu  in  thu  siihiirl«.  In  tho  holds  it.  io  Ix'tli-r 
to  cboDM!  the  higher  dtorie!",  as  llic  higher  the  ronnis 
ocoupif-d  tlie  |)uror  lliv  nir,  and  the  Iiha  liltcly  is  the 
occupant  to  sullt-r  from  atmoBpheiic  impurity. 

I  must  remark,  that  throughout  the  Continent  the 
travolk-r,  ill  or  well,  kIiuhM  Icavu  tho  window  mora  or  \e»a 
open  at  ni^ht,  the  air  of  the  staircasei'  and  pHsssifeB  being 
all  but  invariiibly  very  impure,  even  iti  the  W-9i  hotclii.  If 
lh«  window  is  not  upuned  at  night,  tlio  hedcharal>cr  la 
supplied  from  Ihiii  vitiated  source,  foul  air  is  breathed,  and 
typhus  lever  olton  generated.  1  believe  that  the  numerous 
truvellent  who  every  year  niournlully  die  all  oviir  thi>  Con- 
tinent of  "  gastric  fever,"  as  it  is  amiably  called,  away 
from  home  and  relations,  are  mostly  poisoned  in  this  way. 
If  the  window  in  even  slightly  oin-ned,  pure  air  in  admitted, 
insteud  of  the  foul  air  of  the  paasages,  and  this  dunju;er  is 
avoided,  or  at  least  diminished.  Pur>»  air  can  do  no  Imrm, 
niifhl  or  day ;  ni^-ht  air  is  only  iiijuriouis  to  th<x<e  who 
KxpuMe  thcmiielvi-*  to  it  out  of  dtiun,  without  sulHeieut 
olotliinK,  or  in  bad  or  delieate  health. 

Descending  the  east*Tn  Riviera,  the  fintt  town  or  village 

of  any  importuneu  i»  Xervi,  a  station   much  uMtvomed  hy 

y  the    phyHieians  of   the   north   of  Italy   for  consumptive 


NKRVI — CUIAVARI — SPEZZIA. 


211 


patk-iiU.  Nurvi  U  better  protected  than  Genoa  by  the 
ni»iinlairi»,  which  «ppn»ob  nenrer  the  coast,  nn)  Uem-^ 
•mall,  |>rini-i(>ally  cumpuMd  of  one  luti:>  ittivirt  ahuwj;  the 
titore,  it  is  (tix  from  the  hygitiniv  ohjeuti'>i)a  t»  whuOi 
Gviioii  in  «\|Ki!ieiL  NiTvi  does  not,  however,  ai>pcar  to  tr\<- 
to  present  any  pecuhur  re<:oiDinendatii>ii  to  Ktnin^-ni.  Tli« 
v«KutAtion  w  thiit  of  the  cdIuu  Riviera  couH,  and  doi^ 
not  iit'licate  an  exceptional  elimate.     The  position  is  not 

|>eculiurly  pictiires<iiie,  iind  I  believe  the  iiccoTnmOiIiition  to 
10  found  ifl  fflMtntiully  Tulimi,  whieh  docx  ni^t  in  iiny 
rvNiiect  HatiKfy  the  Kn^tixh.  There  U,  however,  a  bonrdin^ 
mid  l<id>pii^-hoiiM,  nndsT  the  direction  o1'  au  I'^i^li^h 
phytictun  of  Gi-iioti,  piincipnlly  supported  by  the  Ki)^li<h. 
Tlie  proximity  of  Nervi  to  Genoa  and  Turin  appears  to  he 
ltd  urincipul  recoaimeodation. 

Cliiiivari,  the  iioxl  town,  in  gitiiatcd  along  the  soa-shore, 
in  pretty  much  the  tatne  amdititinii  a»  Nervi,  and  prcMAntit 
no  feature  calculated  to  arri:iil  attention. 

8«98tri,  further  on,  ia  an  cxceediiiijly  piciiiresquo  town, 
on  the  mnr^in  of  a  tfmall  buy,  und  iit  the  loot  ol'n  bi;;h 
i>pur  of  the  mountain  chain,  wluL-h  TJina  into  the  »0».  Uitt 
11  faces  Uie  north-east,  and  is  ecreened  from  the  south  by 
the  e|)ur  in  question,  so  that  it  Iomuh  all  cliiim  to  be  con- 
vidensj  a  winter  Hanitury  tiUtlion. 

Th«  r»ad,  wliich  ((radually  becomes  very  ln>ld  and  pio 
t>ircMiue,  then  cnMsea  the  mountiiin,  and  di-soeitds  on 
^pezsiu.  I  had  retniDed  from  funner  truvi-l  a  very  hi;rli 
ioeu  of  the  beauty  of  La  SriezzJa,  and  wa»  ipiilt?  j<ti-|iHrf<l 
tv  make  it  my  winter  residence  hud  1  found  the  ehinate 
Iwar  Mcriitiiiy ;  auult,  liowovor,  was  not  the  case.  Ti>e 
town  ia  utuaU'd  at  the  foot  nf  u  mii<piific<.-nt  j^df  seven 
miles  in  depth,  bordered  on  eaeh  aide  by  inountiiiiis  of  ciiif 
oidorable  hiii<;ht.  The  mounlains  also  ext^'nd  f:ir  inbn<) 
liL-hind,  but  lliey  are  not  unflitjiently  hiyh  l*>  iht<'r<f'pl  the 
oorlh-eaiit  wiikIh.  A.h  a  neoviisary  result  nf  tUt!i  ni->unl:iin- 
mirrouudiMl  sitmitioii,  at  the  ba><c  uf  a  deu|),  nari'uw  ijulf, 
there  it  a  grviit  dc^d  uf  rain  tHrout(hout  the  winter,  niid  Ihe 
wciiUtcr  IB  oltvii  latlter  cold,  ta  iihown  by  the  vr;;etulii>u. 
MoriMver,  tliere  are  marshes  of  oonsiderahle  extent  at  thv 

I-  i 


212 


TUE  EASTERK  RIVIRRA. 


foot  of  thv  hills  which  BiiiTouDd  the  (own,   and   in 
autumn  mKliirU  i«  nlu. 

The  uulf  iUielf  is  verr  lovely,  and  contains  on  both  ita 
vhorw  several  pretty  villa^,  much  more  tiheltcred  and 
picturMquQ  than  the  tutvn.  Thtis  Lerici,  about  Rve  miles 
irona  S{>exzui,  on  thi;  «oiitli«frn  nhoie,  Uom  cosilv  in  a  HEnnll 
luiy,  at  the  foot  of  a  blofiiuj;  bill  nix  hundred  fv^t  h'mh.  At 
the  Hunt livrn  extremity  ol'  the  buy,  on  a  hi^h  promontory, 
uri!  tilt*  WL-tl-pmcrvL-d  n-miiiiiM  "!'  »  utron^  lorlrw*,  the 
Cattle  ol"  Leiici,  oelebraled  in  moditeval  hiHtory.  It  ba- 
loii)^-d  to  tlio  family  of  T&iicn-di  the  crusader,  and  Frands 
the  Fir«l  ol'  France  wu*  eunlinud  thenf:,  after  \mng  madflfj 
prisoner  at  the  battle  of  favia.  There  is  xtiil  a  lineal 
dt-M'cndunt  of  tho  f^rmt  Tnnerrdi  living  in  the  village,  but 
lie  is  mfrdy  a  small  peitMtut  proprietor,  no  bin'^-r  the 
owuur  of  even  tliu  ruins  of  the  proud  cavtlc  built  by  bis 
ancestors ! 

On  the  other  8id«  of  tlie  promontory  which  forms  thai 
north  cide  of  the  buy  ic  it  factory  for  smeltin;;  lead,  princi 
puUy  suppli<>d  from  tb«  li-ud   nuinot  of  Sanlinia.     It  wafl 
formerly  mann^:ed  by  au  ituliaii  compuiiy,  and  proved  a 
Inciiig  concern.      It   ihen    paired    into    the    hands    of  an 
I-'iiglUh  gfiitk-man,  a  friiniil  ol  minv,  and  under  his  ener- 
^vtie  direction  it  huH  become  a  moat  valuable  property, 
[lassed  several  days  with   him  and    bis   family  at  his  hoa- 
piliiblu  villa  on  the  brnw  nf  the  ticrici  bill,  overloulciug  tlis 
pri  tty  buy,  the  gulf,  the  inliiuda  at  its  entrance,  and  tb 
opposite    coast.       Under    the    f>uidaucc    of  his   nmiiiblf'j 
dan  ■•hi  ITS,    who    brought    up    partly    in    Italy    piirtly    i 
Kii^liiud   unilc  the  most  pleasing  characteristics  of  botli< 
nations,  1  boated,  ronmi^d  about  on  the  olive  Icrrncce  and  in 
the  Ivy  and  Lycopt'diuni    clolbiMl   tunes,  hiy  dii'cuun'ing, 
mnsingon   the  Leucii,  or  pic-iiicnl  among  the  ruins  of  the 
custle,  until  I  thoruuglily   understood  the  love  of  Shelhipr 
lor  this  smiling  spot.     The  bouse  that  Shelley  occupied  is 
on   the  shore  cIokv  to  the  sen,  near  the  village.  .  It  i 
wpiare  old-fashioned  Italian  villa,  which,  with  it«  surround' 
ings,  must  have  thomuKhly  suited  Shelley's  poetical  mcdi 
taUvv  temperament..    The  local  triKlition  is  that  bis  deal' 


I 

I 


MASSA  CARBAKA — PISA. 


213 


was  not  lb«  result  of  ao  aooident,  bat  tbat  liie  yncht  wa* 
purpoMly  run  down  by  some  pirnlical  tiKb«ria«D  tor  the 
lake  <>r  whiiC,  booty  thuv  ooiild  ^tt. 

During  tliesic  lew  tiars  1  tliiis  bad  an  opportiintty  of 
narrowly  niirvfyinff  tin.-  vegetation  of  the  locuUly,  one  of 
till!  most  I'lidU'fxid  f]n)t«  of  the  i-jwitorn  Riviera.  I  IbiinJ 
it  tbe  MRie  as  that  of  the  watleru  Kiviern,  but  iviih 
diiCemioes  tliat  indicated  a  lower  temperature  Jo  winter — 
mora  frost.  There  wen  no  Lemon«,  the  Oruiis^-tn-'.'si  wuru 
Ainal!,  iind  only  in  the  mcxtt  i>li<'l1ereil  (-ornt-rs ;  and  Hi;lio- 
trupea,  fantiy  Febr^onium^,  Uelioite  CacUcew,  were  nut 
living  and  fiouritihine  out  of  doors.  Still  it  i»  a  very  lovdy 
apot,  and  I  letV  it  u-itli  iVE>rot.  No  doubt  the  vomfurt  nnd 
eharm  of  Uio  AD|;lo-Ilultan  m-nt  into  which  my  good 
fortune  had  led  me  conlribut«d  to  this  leulinf^. 

Between  Spezsia  and  ti^a  there  is  only  one  spot  worth 
mentioning,  iind  that  i«  ^lastiii  CitrrariL  The  town  in 
email  and  ctcan,  open  to  the  «oiitU-wi»t  and  prot«ctcd  Iruin 
the  uurlh-t-uKt  liy  thu  lii^h  inoiiiitjiiMs  in  wbiuli  the  m^irbte 
is  worked.  The  Oran^c^-trueii  appear^]  liir};er  and  licilthicr 
than  on  any  part  ol  this  coast.  It  must  \k  an  exfcpli'miilly 
gWKl  wititvr  station  for  tho  eitnturn  Riviora,  and  there  i>  ii 
uood,  clean,  Mtmlortahlo  huti;!.  Uiit  it  h  a  dull  bttlu  ptaee, 
haviuit:  no  vi«w  of  the  aua,  although  near  it.  Neither  here 
nur  anywhere  elati  along  this  coast  did  I  see  the  Inxiirinnt 
iieinoii' (^ves  of  Mcntone.  Indeed,  the  proliK.-tii>i)  alTunlMl 
by  the  inouotainjt  whii:h  form  the  biicltr^oiind  of  ih>-  Men- 
tone  reifioD  ia  intiuitely  Huperior  tu  anything  met  with 
along  the  eastern  Uivicra  between  Genoa  and  I'isa.  The 
vegeLition  if,  conacqiiently,  mors  sonthem,  and  indicates  u 
much  higher  dc^nre  of  winter  tonipemture,  at  and  n^ar 
Uuntone; 

This  time  I  examined  Pisa  attentively  undi^r  tbe  climate 
and  liy^unie  ]H>int  of  view  only,  and  k^l'l  it  with  a  inowt 
unravourablo  impn-Hsion,  thoroii;^lily  (.'uiilircned  by  snbse* 
ijuenl  visit*  and  expi^rienoe.  Fisa  is  aitoatud  in  an  open 
plain,  some  miles  Irotn  the  mountains  which  pi'olccl  ii. 
This  plain  duos  not  show  the  alijfhtest  ev-iilenuu  of  lumthvrn 
vc^tmoo :  it  due«  not  even  contain   the  Olive-trew  so 


2U 


WE8TEKN    ITALY. 


common  ilonu  llid  ciui8tfln<l  on  Uie  ailjoinioj;  liills.     N<i 
Ibiiig  JK  itfCH  Imt  tlw!  «lry  in(>p-lirn<l<.-<l  ik-viiliioutt  .Mulberrji 
with  ViiK-K,  liki!  uld  tnpvn,  (miliii;;  I'rom  Litem.     Tta-  tonii 
k  surrounded  l>y  a   very  high  wall,   wliicli  must  im[ 
veoUlUlon  ;  tU<r  tttrects  are  niirrow,  etmlms,  damp,  unil  c-old. 

The  iBrfiimctl  Anio,  which  pitf»v)>  through  Dip  city, 
formiti}!;  ni)  nrc,  i*  n  mere  ditch  or  itii<at,  hke  the  moat  of 
nn  <i)d  ibrtincM)  town  in  the  north  of  Ftaoce,  with  Htoneit 
ineteiid  of  tfT&m,  and  a  elii>ft>i>th  «lirty  t-tnram  muindenn);  Bt 
the  bottom  ;  it  is  in  reiilily  n  men."  Kpi'cit-K  of  o(n-n  mnin- 
drain.  Tli«  ([uurtcr  of  llie  invalids  is  a  quay  oil  the  limd 
of  Ihis  niout  river,  ahout  a  mile  lonp,  and  bordered  by 
f;l<iiiiiiy  third-rnt«  hoi>Hr«.  Ht^rc  thi-y  lire  ooiidemned 
lo  ivultc  up  and  down,  looking  ut  the  Mount  and  dirty 
water  l>eh>w  them,  occa«ional1y  stvollen  itilo  a  yellow  tor- 
rent l>y  the  raihH.  The  sanli'sa  streets  are  »)  chilly  that 
eh>^  {Mtie»t>!  arc  seldom  allowed  lo  go  into  them  ;  the 
eounlry  aruund  in  a  mere  dull,  denuded  pluin,  whiih  even  » 
soiilliern  s-un  auinaot  enliven.  Morwiver,  it  in  olVn  very 
colli  nl  Pi«u,  mort-  so  than  at  Itome,  there  are  often  foga 
on  llie  Aroo,  and  it  rains  consUtiitly  iu  winter. 

To  crovru  all,  Pisa  is  an  tmhealthy  tow  ii  to  itK  inliahitants. 
like  Genoa,  tlorvnee,  Home,  I4n))leii  and  all  llii-se  ill-built, 
ilUilraiued,  dirty,  wall-cminped  auulhern  ciliew.  The  averagDj 
duruiiuii  of  life  is  twenty-nine  years  at  I'i^ji  and  Kl.'rem«,r 
and  tw'enty-cit;ht  only  at  R<inu-aiid  Xu])K«;  whilst  iit  I'atit 
it  iM  thirty- nine,  nnd  in  I.niidun  fortv-roiir.  Fur  eorrol 
riilive  evident*  on  these  poinis  1  would  reler  to  ihe  eha)>tcr 
devoted  to  I'isa  in  I>r.  Cjirikre's  hiyhly  eetcemed  work, 
eulilled  "  Lo  Climut  do  I'lUilie." 

All  experienced  phyNieiiinB  utlucli  extreme  importanec 
llie  influenee  of  the  inind  over  the  body.    A  cheerful,  happyl 
Imme  of  mind   favours  the  digestive  proe^-siea,  tends  to 
]>iomuU^  sleep,  and  thus  connlervels  tlie  inlliienoe  of  disease. 
The  dreary,  elieerlees  monotony  of  »loiii-«  and   mortar  at 
PiHa,  with  iu  ditch  river,  mnm  exeioiee  a  moiit  nnfavourabit; 
iiilluence  on  invalids  exposed  to  it  lor  month  aUer  month. J 
OiK-o   the   magnilioeul   rathednil,   the   liir-fanied   leaningj 
lower,   nnd    the  Cmnpo   Suuio,  or   cenieterj-.   have 
rxplured,  there  b  literally  nutliiug  for  the  imalid  to  doa] 


FIjORENCE. 


21 A 


Tlieri;  »,  it  is  tnt«,  tbe  niiiversitv,  where  many  Irarned  nnij 
cy)i-)>nitMl  prul'i-i^ors  hold  forth,  but  ite  soientitic  collectioii 
atid  iU  U-'CUirvn  are  only  inU'rciiliii:;  to  utiidonts,  or  to  moil 
or  ocieiitific  and  literary  tu>t<-a.  Kvi:n  m  thttrn  1  qui'sttioii 
whfther  the  iiiiiviTsity  would  not  be  a  snure  inateiid  of  a' 
boon.  Indoor  work  of  any  kind,  mviilAl  or  bodily,  and 
oloso  ilI-vi-iitil;iU'i!  Icctiirv- momf ,  tliry  should  avtiid. 
Lounging  ))utanic;d  or  (HL-ologici)  rambles,  or  tiucli  rcadiiiK 
as  can  t^  carried  on  silting;  out  id  tJie  open  air,  sliould 
ulone  he  ullowud. 

Wlii'ii  thi'  prevent  png^R  wi^re  firxt  written  (ISilO)  a  rail- 
road aloHft  the  eastern  Umera  was  uot  even  thought  oC 
Now  (1S74)  it  is  iiu  ncoampliehed  fact,  from  Oenoa  t<>  I'iea, 
witli  the  ox>:<-|>tioi)  of  the  mtfiinlaiiuMu  rvg'on  beturecn  Sentri 
and  Spc7Jiii>,  ivhirre  there  u  «  brcftk,  soon  to  be  Gllvd.  'I'hooe 
who  are  tr*velliii)y  for  pleasure  should,  however,  reject  Um 
nlliiK'im-nts  of  the  rapid  railway  journey,  take  a  comlurt' 
able  velturino  ciirriiigi!,  and  uli-i-p  one  or  two  ni^liU  on  the 
way,  r»y  at  Swtri  otid  MaKsii  Ciirrara.  The  nea-ciuit, 
mouiitiiinK,  and  rogids  aru  very  lovely ;  indeed,  the  itceiiery 
b%'  r<uid  is  only  a  deyrree  inlerior  to  that  of  the  western 
Kiviera.  On  thu  nulrood  the  i-x<]uiHtte  bi-iiuty  of  nutiire  i# 
all  htit entir>.-ly  Inst;  forttic  line  in  oonstAntly  either  piaaning 
tlinxigh  a  tunnel  or  ovlt  high  viaducts.  Homo  of  these 
viaduotfl  will  hear  comparison  with  the  high  level  bridge  at 
Newcwtle-on-Tyne,  and  urc  nut  nitieli  more  tii«c;i[iHliiig. 
No  one  who  liao  mc^rt-ly  travillid  iilong  thin  coaitt  hy  rjtil 
Clin  have  the  I'utnlest  idea  oi'  it^  rtal  beauty.  At  SeHlri  I 
liud  to  takf  u  I'uniiiije  to  cross  a  spar  of  the  mountain, 
whiuh  hfTL-  runs  down  tn  the  sira,  and  the  chitngu  wa»  an 
iiiexprenxibli;  reliiif.  Once  more  1  experienced  lor  u  few 
bonra  all  the  delight  of  old  days'  travelling,  an  we  ascended 
picturesque  hills,  winding  along  their  sides,  and  rapidly  du- 
ccL-niird  by  zigug  ro:id«  into  precipitonx  ravines.  I  waM  iiorry 
nheii  we  rcache<]  Spi-xxiii,  ulicrt!  1  lie  rail  had  to  be  n-sumed. 
From  S|>rKxia  the  roud  to  I*iBa  leaves  the  coast,  and  crosses  the 
pLtiiu  oriu-cany  ;  it  ih  not,  thcrerorG,of  soinuch  importance 
what  etyle  of  travellio^  w  ailupted. 

Florcnov  i«  not  n  ninter  residence  lor  invalids;  it  is  a 
HMnintain  town,  and  much  too  oold.     From  Fuca  you  pats 


216 


WESTERN    ITALY. 


through  thirty  miles  of  vaIIpvb  »ad  motinliiiDs  U>  ix-nch  ^ 
und  (itivu  thuro,  yo»  Arc  siirroundi^il  bj'  in<iuiitjiiiis  on  uvory 
»i(le,  miiny  of  wliidi  I  liuvi- htvii  covered  ititli  enow  early 
in  NovoedIim.  'I'he  north  vt'tnd,  or  traTttontana,  is  nleo  vny 
tiyiii};  to  iovaliOs  uheu  it  Howe,  which  u  often  lliu  cuM. 
Ill  187:!-^  tkBtiug  wna  continued  for  u  fortnight  «u  the 
froZ'tM  Ariio. 

Home  is  a  winter  residence  for  healthy  totiriste,  not  Ta 
invatidHj  oialnriii  ret;;n6  lher«,  more  or  Iceir,  nil  the  year,' 
Kvcry  winter  it  niiiktui  victimn,  even  uinoiig  the  healthy,_ 
and  the  m«dieul  praL'titinnen  nlio  lmv«  been  settled  tl 
lor  yeura  mv  that  nuUaria  lever  cumpliait^B,  more  or  1« 
nearly  every  form  of  disease,  slijjht  or  severe,  thnt  occttr 
even  durin;^  the  winUir  mouths.     Whfii  the  north  wiud- 
tLe  era  moil  tana— blown,  hIiil-U  is  not  ontre(|uently  the 
for  HeviTfll  diiys  togither,  it  is  very  cold.    Moreover,  invalids  ' 
should  KiTii[iulou»)y  avoid   churuhrs,  gallorisw,  vaullx.  e-4tii- 
oombft,  t'l-iilivitiitt,  iiud  [lartieN — and  what  i.s  llouie  without 
tbeee,  the  lile  of  tiie  Ktcmal  City  ? — merely  a  tem[ilution 
and  a  enare.     I  may  add  that  all  that  lias  been  eaid  about 
the  defective  druio3<^<,  and  t;i-ncrul  inthitalthineHi  of  Uenoa 
and  i'ina  «(]ual!y  applies  to  Floi^-iice  iiiul  Itomc. 

Thus  1  had  to  continue  my  ]iili!iimu;-e,  and  Htni-t>»l  froi 
Civita  Vecchia  for  Naples.  1  did  not  intend  to  remaiv^ 
thei-e,  but  to  go  on  to  Salonio,  the  celebraled  medical  M;hool 
of  former  days,  wliioh  in  near  und  adniirably  cilimted,  I 
u\*o  wi*licd  to  cBrelully  exuniitie  the  l>ay  of  (iaeln,  of  tlit 
smiling  and  all  htii  tropieul  luxuriance  of  which  1  had* 
ralaiiHid  a  very  pleasing  reuullevlion.  These  plans,  however, 
were  not  to  bo  carried  out.  I  onee  mor«  saw  the  buy  o( 
Gaeta,  it  in  inie,  but  nndor  ciroumstances  which  made  unj 
explorution  an  iiDpott'>ihitiiy. 

3lany  yean  previously,  uflvr  makinj;  a  plcucnre  toor  in 
Italy,  and  vii^itini;  Naples  for  the  lirat  time,  witli  uncloudod 
delight,  I  started  for  Ijegbom  in  SQ  old  steam.r  called  tha, 
Firffiiii',     It  was  a  bc«ntifnl  ituttimnal  alWrnuoii,  nrid  ll»aj 
nta|;niti(«nt  bay  of  Naples  wiw  perfectly  culm,  like  a  mirror.  ^ 
A»  We  stvamcd  yenily  pust  old  Vesnvitis,  the  cla'vical  coost^ 
of  Raia?,  and  the  beautitnl  Inland  of  leehin,  tve  all  n-mained 
oiidovk,  eiitranwd  «iLh  the  ^Wiuus  scene.   Ua  passiiij;  out 


A   STORM— CAETA. 


217 


'  thL>  hay  the  bdl  ran(^  tor  dinner ;  iin  one  drttimt  oF  bcin^ 
ill,  ami  we  all  tuit  tlowii,  s  iiivrry  Kti;'li»U  piiHy,  for  Deuriy 
all  were  Ht);(lUh  tourists  reluriiiiiic  U>  rutlierlanO . 

Bnl  ulas  I  unconscioiifl  victims  to  Nepliino,  ire  knew  not 
tliHt  thf  Scplenilwr  wjuitiogtiul  t^aki;  worv-  duv,  lli^kt  the 
iMircitnot«r  had  Jallcn  liall'  a»  inch  tliiit  iil1l<;rnix>n,  thai  the 
cnptain  and  twauieu  were  anxioua,  and  that  we  were  dostinedj 
lo  dire  torments.  When  wo  reached  the  deek  ftgiiin  the 
aevne  vnu*  Already  chnn^iii^.  Tliv>'va  and  wind  were  ri»in);^, 
and  before  ni^htrull  we  were  in  one  ol'  the  woi-st  Htonni 
that  hitd  been  ktioiva  for  years.  Our  xt^amer  was  old  and 
flow,  not  Mv  to  netioniplish  mori*  thjin  six  knot*  iin  hour 
in  fuir  ive&thur.  With  the  kvind  all  but  diiad  a^uiniit  us 
and  a  raging  sett,  her  |>erfannaneeii  wore  anythin-,;  bat| 
MtiaDictory.  In  twenty-fotir  houre  we  only  inailo  about  a 
hundred  inilo,  and  the  vtoim  continutn<;  witJ)  unabated 
fury,  and  our  fut^I  bein^  all  but  exhuiMted,  wo  had  to  turn 
about,  to  retr^Ke  our  steps,  driving  belore  the  wind,  and  to 
nuke  for  the  jwrt  of  Oaeta  us  a  ret'u;te. 

Qaet«  wi*  eventually  nuivhud,  to  our  inexpramble  xntis- 
foction,  abiut  xeven  •■'olnok  in  the  evening  <if'  the  ibilowiri;; 
day,  and  fondly  hupcd  that  wu  were  at  the  end  of  our 
trmibltM.  But  in  this  we  were  very  much  mi^tuken.  Thu 
port  is  a  niihUiry  port,  aud  uvoordin<r  to  the  rule*  uf  tho*it 
dayH,  at  0  P  u.  all  uoininunication  with  the  ahipping  ce^ued. 
So  ntriclly  was  thiti  rule  entureed,  that  ulthoutfb  thiix  (InVHO. , 
in  by  stress  of  weikther,  with  womun  and  inv^ilid^  on  board-' 
very  ill,  >vo  wert-  not  nltuwed  to  land  Provisions  and  c<»Is 
wetw  oven  denied  uii  until  the  opuninp  of  the  port  the  nest 
morning,  and  until  ordem  from  the  U»vk:rninent  at  Nuple^, 
twenty  miles  distant,  had  been  received.  We  were  thus 
obli)riKl  to  apend  the  night  riding  with  one  anchor  in  it 
periUus,  expotteii  amrltora-jv,  willi  fire*  out  for  want  of  fuel, 
and  in  i^reat  danger  of  bein;;  blown  out  to  sea  and  ditslu-d 
ugainst  the  rocks.  As  to  provisions,  if  received,  but  few 
could  have  done  honour  to  them. 

liy  ten  o'eloek  nest  morning  order*  iiad  been  rweived 
frotu  head-quarters  to  allow  tlie  "  very  dau^ferous  crew"'  of 
the  Vifgiiio  to  Land,  so  boats  were  sent  to  tJte  «hip,  and  a 
tile  of  »otdivr«  were  dniM'ii  up  on  the  buaeh.    We  were  then 


'il8 


WESTf:RN    ITALY. 


lutnU'il  between  two  ixiws  of  the  eoKlierp,  and  nmrchwl 
<>u   font,  lilfi-  HI  niiiiiy  (''»>vielK.  to  tin'  tnwn   liiill  tt>  lini 
wir  passjiorls  oveihiuiKd.     Tin-  Mnrin   uiis  uver,  the  anil: 
t'hiuing   glorious!^',  and   by  this   time,  nl^or   a  fi'ily-lourj 
hoiivK'  fiisl,  w«   hud    liceomc  ravcnoiiP,  iinJ   implort-J  out 
inililnry  visecirt   Tinit  to    luku   uk   to  n  caff,  fur  lircukfiint.^ 
Our  entreaties  «n<l  olJiir^Hliims  were,  hiwever,  all  in  vain. 
We    were,  1    pixsiinie,  considered   dnneeroiiB    people,  vila, 
liberals,  revobilionistc,  not  to  be  nlluwed  lo  eonn'  in  enntiiet'l 
nitti   the  ]oy»\  inhabilnntit  of  Uaete.     We  were  tberefoK 
dra^rged  ruthleesly  before  the  "authoritieft,"  tbence  lakcl 
in   tlie  tmnie   niihtary,  or  conviet,  §t)'le  to  the  t;»tes  of  thi 
loun,  bundled  into  c-Jirrtuges,  and,  witli  n  >H>Ulier  oa  eaely 
box,  driven  to  Mola  di  Oaela, «  villtt^e  at  the  luillnm 
th«  bay.    Hefe  we  arriv<ed  at  midday,  and,  free  at  laet  froii 
our  exrort.  vrt-rv  alloned  to  repair  the  wants  of  nature.    Tbi*! 
repuvt  wna,  I  think,  even  more  mirtbfid  nod  pUsi^nnt  tbun 
tbe  one  we  liad  |inrliiken  nT  tmmis  foi'ty-ei^bt  hwtn  before 
in  Ibe  bay  of  Naples.     We  were  all  sitk  tif  tbe  sea,  and 
separated  to  Riid  our  way  bomeivarde  as  bert  ne  could. 

I  and  two  of  my  companions  determined,  iw  n  eompcnua 
tion  for  paat  hardahipii  and  diingcn,  to  make  a  comfurtabli 
and  leisurely  nrogTCw.  We  gut  a  carria^je  from  Xaple 
and  potted  all  tbronch  Itjily,  merely  travellint;  botweeol 
l>ruik1'i».t  and  a  lute  liinner.  'line  moKl  enjoyabk  joumc 
Irtmi  (iaeta  to  ChamlK'iy  haf  rcnniini'd  in  niy  memory, 
markeil  with  a  white  &lone.  llie  weather  wac  lovely,  the 
cuuntiy  gloriuux,  tny  eumpaniune  cbeeifnl,  witty,  and 
pleiirant,  and  every  row  nnd  then  (be  Ki|;lit  of  oitr  lat«^^ 
fnmiy  the  t.<-a  added  a  very  deli<;btrul  »enfe  of  iti«iirity  toflf 
cur  enjoyment  of  tbe  seene.  I  may  udd,  Ihal.  frum  ihat  " 
niument  I  l>ecani«  a  moet  irreconcilable  enemy  to  Kinf;^ 
Bumii:!  of  Niijiltj:,  of  tthnse  hucpitiiliiy  lo  Khipwn-eked  I 
tinvulleis  1  hud  had  Hiieb  a  ohai'mln^'  illiii>tTiitii>n.  | 

Since   this   memotshle  exjiediltou    I   Imve  olten   made 
CODBling  voyages  in  the  MtditerrAne.iii,  but    1   bavu  n«v«tj 
again  bceii  eanght  in  an  actual  isli-rni,     l-'ir*tly,  1  avoid 
]>i<)xiniily  of  thv  ei|uiuoetial  galea;  and  xtiondly,  I  carry 
a»  aneixiid  bummeter  with  me,  and  couxiilt  it  lor  two  or 
tliree  daye  belurH  1  emburk,  with  the  aMistnuw  of  Aduiirol 


laue 
arrv     n 


A 


GAETA— THE  ^IKOE. 


219 


* 


Sniytli's  »n<!  Ailininil  Filzroj-'*  irislriR-ttonM.  Tf  the  stnto 
of  tbititi^  ill  at  iill  suK[)triuti!i — that  is,  il*  llii*  barometer  is 
fiillin^  ifradually — however  line,  L  Tomain  on  sliore.  T  liiivc^ 
t)iu8  Fvveral  times  avoidod  euvcrc  iit»rnit!  wlii>jh  1  iihgiilil 
otiierwwe  hare  eiiuQuntored, 

On  the  (iivaeDt  ooeuaion  we  had  left  Civita  Veccliia 
ovcnii^ht,  on  one  of  the  French  Bt«a[nera,  for  Nit[)lti>.  At 
fl»«  o'cloi'lt  in  tlic  morninji  we  were  uwiikvnci]  in  nur  hertiis 
l>y  the  stL'wnr<l,  wlin  toti]  u»  iliiit  tlio  »t<-aiii(!r  hud  run  into 
G^teta  with  deBjiatohes  for  the  Krciioh  tleet,  and  that  it  wan 
Worth  while  going  on  <leek.  Wo  all  dressed  ra|iiilty,  and 
when  wo  n;«ch«d  the  drek  a  8t<fht  met  our  vyen  wlii<.-h  can 
iievi>r  he  Tor^ttep.  We  wcrv  in  the  well-rcmemberifd  hay, 
the  haven  of  former  dayit,  and  I  eouUl  have  fancied  that  I 
tra^i  etill  in  the  Virf/il-io,  at  anchor,  before  the  small  |>ro- 
montflry-crow  nwt  town.  The  nii^ht  was  olear  and  i*larli:;ht, 
and  »a  illuminated  by  a  moon  nearly  lull,  that  every  fealuro 
ot  the  mouiitainons  coast  eame  out  eirarly,  as  it  had  done 
during  the  di«ary  Dii:bt*watob  in  limes  yone  by.  lint  tli« 
siX'ne  was  very  difTi-rent,  for  one  of  the  ni-uat  events  nf 
modcra  Italiun  hislorj*  was  being  ennded  before  ue.  My 
former  iubos]>itabIe  host,  l-Vrdinatid  the  First,  «f  iti^lorionn 
memory,  ivas  dead,  after  suflL-rin);  in  his  latter  days,  ibrimgh 
dire  diM-aee,  some  of  the  «b%"'''^  ^^  '""'  'n'l'i-ted  ot!  hu  many 
innocvnt  jxilitieal  victinm.  Hi>:»on  and  suices-^or,  Ferdimiud 
the  Seroiid,  »*  a  retribution  for  \m  fatlierV  misdcciN,  was 
t<>»|X!d  lip  with  the  last  remnant  of  his  army  in  ihi'  lorlivsa 
of  (iaeta,  then  before  me. 

Gnclii  crowns  a  took  scvcnd  hundred  fwt  bijrh,  which 
lerminatim  a  uromonlory,  the  northern  limit  of  the  bay 
and  port  of  tiiat  name.  The  walls,  tbo  forts,  the  housM 
and  the  ehurcKrfl,  built  of  while  otone,  whone  in  the  ealni 
nn>oiiht;ht.  There  wvre  in-anvly  any  lights  to  be  seen, 
niid  th«  town  a|'[H-are<l  i-alm  and  aslii'p,  as  il  were.  Uut 
we  knew  tlut  few  of  its  inhabitanta  were  aHleen  lliat  ni^hl, 
li-r  Rrvat  events  were  lukin);  litnoe.  Thousands  were  lyinjf 
stek  with  lever  and  dysentery  Within  Its  walls,  and  it  also 
ci>iit;iined  a  kiii^  at  bay,  surrounded  by  a  tcrror^Htrickeii 
I'onrt — a  kinj^  uhuse  crown  was  csi'apint;  from  his  feeble 
bands. 


220 


truT. 


AtihtfoU  of  Owta,  M  tbe 
IW  ton  with  llN  iwiwhaJ 
Tlay  tMlMsUd  iIm  towp— at  at  momm  tHanmair  ofroyil 
traofi^  fbr  wImmr  Umk  wm  db  rao«  in  tb*  tovn,  aad  vkoM 
pyiMM  KTTad  to  protect  tU  71km  a  mUe  of  ilirfciw, 
•■d  beyond,  Dcarer  tli«  carr«  of  tha  bttjr,  fjlarad  in  the  irnik 
m  toon  tttmitd  oolkction  of  LiTOoac  fin*,  oorrnn^  ibt 
Aon  mk)  faiOiNiU:  t/j  ■  ooanitaMa  eKlent,  uii  iodieatiag 
tlw  pfiMM  of  a  mach  l«r|^  faodr  «f  tmopc  Tbse  eoa- 
rtitatad  th*  SanliRwn  jumf  bniegiog  Oaeta. 

Ill  tim  Wj,  >  frvt  LiiDdred  j'sru*  FrDdi  us,  Ujr  s  Dumbtr 
of  French  ram-of-wnr,  tiriliuntly  ilium imtcd.  All  tbetr 
pnrtboloi  wm  open,  and  fiom  each  portbolc  pit>oc«led  m 
bbu  of  liifliti  ibe  gaiu  were  ihotttf).  and  the  gnnnen 
wrv  l*F)ii<le  Dioin  ready  to  fire.  A  mile  or  m>  beyond  the 
Fri'iifli  fivi'l,  lliua  [irejiared  for  Wttle,  we  ooulO  peroeiv« 
nrxillKT  'lark  niawi,  I'ornwd  of  litri^c  ships,  with  but  teWf 
]itj-lit<:  tliiK  woa  the  Sanlitiian  tici-t.  We  were  ga»ti_ 
will)  ii»l(iiiii|im<!i)t  iind  itit<;rvst  al  thiH  dramatie  foene,] 
whoi)  a  Ixiit,  mniined  by  Nix  aturdy  raameD,  lefi  the  Preocli  - 
udiiiinil'*  Nttip,  and  n^idly  approiiched  tie.  Several  yttr- 
■oni  raine  uii  lionrd  our  tiU-umer,  and  we  •ooii  learnt  tbt 
miMillDtr  of  what  wiw  |iiiiMii)g. 

TliL*  previirtui  duy  tlie  SaTdinian  army  had  left  Molii  di 
Onsta,  uiid  iiiiulo  a  vi^rurixis  altatk  on  tht?  Neapolitan 
iiriiiy  in  front  of  ()iii.-lu.  The  Siirdinian  Awl  hml  entered 
thtt  Iniy,  lulvaticixl  alatig  Ibo  oonut,  und  «it]iporled  the  land 
Irooim  vory  ilIluiiMitly  by  itit  fire.  The  army  of  Kin^i 
I'uniiimtid,  anil  the  fortroBB  of  Oaeta  itself,  wei'e  pluc-cil  in' 
uttint  jcopanly  by  the  combined  uttack  of  the  Sardiniaa 
land  und  iinval  IbrcscH,  whon  the  Krvnch  admirul  intimated 
ti>  l\m  SiirdinUu  admirul  lliu  order  to  stup,  threatening  to 
(iro  Btiil  NJnk  bii  vmiiela  if  ho  advanced.  It  was  to  support 
thi*  Ihri'iit  that  the  prepamlionc  we  tuiw  were  made;  tho 
IfunneiH  liail  litN-ti  at  tlii<ir  ^una  uU  nit^ht,  n-jidy  to  lire  had 
thu  iSiinUnian  tieut  tulvtmcvd.  Thia  extrsordinary  and 
iinciiUv<I-f(ir  Ntup  on  the  part  of  the  French  coiieed  tho 
prnnt^'Kl  aiiMniilimenl  thronghoiit  Europe  ;  it  ar routed  Dm 
«  of  th<- Karilinviins,  and  wits  thu  muiina  ofdelayiny.j 
>f  Kvnlinund  ILfommntl  munlhs.     We carrii-d  Ihl 


NAPLES— THE   CHTAJA. 


221 


n«n>)i  to  Napien,  wh«rc  it  n]>pcnreil  to  «xcit«  an  nil  but 
univemal  li'clinj;  of  uUnii  atiU  iiidij^iuliflii. 

Naiili.-*  trxhibits  thu  en  men  trillion  of  all  tlic  uiihyi>iviiic 
coiiilitions  prvviouiily  ailudud  to.  Mure  than  tillU.OOU 
&i>uttierner§  ar«  livitiu  in  an  extreaidy  coiiltiii-il  s|)nv<.',  in 
hi)*h  hoiiMfi,  ill  damp  sunless  streets,  nnd  tltc  ilniin*  ii)l 
mil  into  U)i;  lidvlomm-u.  In  the  Riiwt  fnahionablo  part  of 
the  tou'D,  ill  IVont  of  tlie  kousea  an<l  liotcl^i  ocuugritHl  by  the 
nobility  notl  by  stnin^ftfrB,  is  a  narrow  public  gurdoit,  tlio 
fuAhioiuiUv  prDmi'tiiuli.-,  "the  Villa  IWle,"  rtinninj^  for  a 
mile  al(>ii>c  tin;  aliurL'.  On  this  vliore  ci<;lit  publiv  dMiiis 
empty  tUcmsclvi.'«  into  the  ecn;  the  lar;>i'si  of  these  drain* 
IS  oppimite  0114!  of  tli4!  vhief  hotvlx,  and  is  nfteu  so  ofiiinaive 
that  Uwae  who  are  alive  to  tlvwe  quntiuiM  reel  inclined  to 
take  B  ran  in  passinf^. 

On  tlie  Inml  Hide  of  the  Villa  Itolc  is  thu  main  drivu,  or 
fltreet,  "  the  Chi^a,"  and  on  each  Htdu  of  ihu  pavcnu-nt,  as 
in  most  other  strrets.  there  are  lar^e  slits  in  the  ruiid  every 
few  feet,  a  foot  long  and  about  nn  inch  bmid,  U>  allow  the 
nin-nrat«r  to  OMajte  into  the  dniinn,  which  thus  fmily 
dommnnicatc  with  the  cxti^riur.  It  is  between  thene  tkor* 
drains  on  the  one  side,  nnd  the  drain-ventilated  street  oa 
the  other,  that  faahiouuble  Naples  daily  prom<!ntidc*,  and  it 
is  by  tlie  side  of  this  ehoioe  n-fpon  that  nearly  all  our 
countrynten  live,  and  not  unfreijui.-ntly  die. 

The  pieltinuquuneitgi  of  Nuplen  life,  chucly  aiudywd,  is  in 
a  very  jfrenl  measure  tliu*.  of  tilth  and  rjiffs.  1'he  pic- 
tiiri-i^(|ii>;  listiermen  pase  their  lives  fishint;  at  the  mouth  of 
thtsu  Hi'wera.  The  jtietuiwpie  lower  orders  eat,  drink,  nnd 
sleep,  an  it  were,  in  public,  windows  and  diKim  opr.n,  if 
they  have  any.  Many  are  clothed  in  raj^s,  which  ihey 
appear  seldom  to  take  off  until  they  fall  from  them,  and 
they  are  infested  with  vermin,  wldeh  tliey  scratch  olfeach 
other  Ht  tlie  stroet'CornerE^  The  town,  moreover,  is  sur- 
rounded by  |>estil>rntial  manhcH,  and  is  built  on  a  tufa  rock, 
or  kind  of  punuce-stone,  so  porous  that  it  lets  the  rain 
iMink  in  tw<.^nty  feot,  to  (pve  it  out  in  dry  weittlier  by 
le^reci.  ThuH,  in  ivinter,  moss  gfuws  wherever  the  sun 
does  not  reach. 

A  fciv  d.iys  ufVer  my  arrival  in  NovcmlMlT,  tlic  autatnn 


222 


VBSrERN   ITALV. 


^ 


rainit  ooinnienc«d  n-itli  ■  wnrm  opjirCEsivc  eciroocA,  nr  sionth- 
UHBt  wiud.  Ttie  torrents  orniiii  tliiil  M\  iu  the  firet  twelve 
lioiii^  U'nxhvi]  the  Mroets  and  draiiin  of  their  accumiilatml 
aliciniiiialiiiiiK  iiiU>  tliv  fm.  Tho  ufivvS  nnd  the  mirt,  «i) 
tlie  otlii-'r  liuml,  drovi!  tliem  buck  ii^ain  and  agitm  on  the 
shore-,  whilst  the  wind,  rushing  up  the  drains,  NCiipud 
tlirough  the  ruin  n{iciitn<*«  in  tlie  «trcct«,  und  through  lh« 
open  cluaets  iu  the  liouitca,  Thn  nmell  thront^hotit  the 
tintir*  lower  purt  of  the  city  vaa  awful,  imd  a  conMOvraUk 
portion  of  the  p()|>it]iition  wufi  nl  onuc  utroctcxl  witli 
nhdominni  pninit,  iliHrrliiui,  and  oven  dyiientery.  I  whs 
one  «f  th«  first  victims,  and  after  ue*rly  ihi'oo  wwIib' 
sulTering  Iroiii  llic  lutler  diseBsi*,  I  aliunduninl  nil  ideii  of 
pxploriii^  Salerno  nnd  the  South  of  Itiily.  I  had  only  one 
idea,  thut  of  returning  aa  quickly  »8  posiiihlc  to  put*, 
bealtliy  Mentone.  1  thervffire  embarked  on  a  Genua 
sU-unier  ii«  koou  nx  I  \viu<  cfunl  to  thv  voyage,  nhd  as  soon 
m*  till-  barometer  nhowed  nie  thiit  it  was  prudent  so  todo— 
thnnifih  il«  friendly  aid  esoaping  a  violent  storm— and 
n'achol  Mentone  eufcly.  There  I  reniuinud  during  tbd 
rest  of  th«  witiUrr. 

To  eoiu'lude,  howeror,  about  Naples  and  ita  bay.  Thuy 
arc  most  foHcinatinu  to  mere  healthy  touii&tK,  for  they  are 
hallowed  by  a^socintiunit  and  U-autif*  of  the  moat  vane«l 
character;  but  to  the  invalid,  Naples  should  W  abeolutt'ly 
forbiddtn.  Even  hardy,  heahhy  tourisU  may  besilatti 
about  a  pTulougi'd  revidi-nci'.  Tliny  »lioul<],  aim,  ratlier 
choose  the  more  elevaltnl  rejjious  of  the  city  than  tli4 
riiKhionable  Chiiya.  The  defective  sjititaiy  arrau;^em«nta 
are  not  the  only  draivbiK^kK.  When  llie  wind  is  in  U»e 
nortli>eait,  the  Apeunine*  in  that  direutiuu  are  so  low  that 
it  panes  over  them,  tbey  become  covered  with  enow,  and 
the  cobi  ia  intciiM.  ^^'bcn  it  veers  lo  tlii!  noutb-oaHt^-jhe 
sutrocoo— on  the  contrary,  the  heat  become*  intense,  and 
tiie  air,  heinj;  loaded  with  moisture  from  the  soa,  is  very 
oppreiimve.      Tlicsc  extremes,    following    ciich   other   very 

rapidly,  are  uw»t  trying  and  nuluultliy.  The  nurtb-we«l, 
or  mistral,  oiw>  Irefjueiitly  blows   into  the  bay  with  ^reIlt 

""rileiR'O,   and   is   a   tryin-r,   iliingeraiuE    wind   to    invalids 
hiiut  the  Me>lilerruije;iD.    C^ntelbmare  and  Suireiil" 


n 


I 


I 

I 

I 


N'APi.i«  ASn  ITS  DANneita. 


224 


bbiii^  liii-iied  to  Ui«  nDrlli-wrmt,  receive  thia  bitter  win<l  ir 
full.  Tlii-y  have  been  mucli  recommended  of  lata  ycuni 
ufv  w'tiitvr  rvsiilynofs,  but  tho  rcc/tmmriMlalion  w  «n  error, 
IquikIin)  od  octnixioiuil  unil  cxMriitioiial  line  weather.  Tliosi! 
bwalitivB  are  tlie  summer  re»ideiicM  of  tUe  NfiiiHilitunif, 
bucauoo  tlwy  urv  lurnet)  to  the  north. 

It  wiM  ii'it,  hitwovoT,  wiUiiiut  re^Tot  thit  I  nbantloned 

Na)>l«8.      Notwithstamlintf  illnrafi   and   suRl-rin);,    I    was 

b(>i;iniiin(;    to    foci    the  iiithiunco  of  its   uetial   liiw.'i nation. 

Ttiirint;  ilh)eni',  ala>,  I  biitl   rrpiinmHl    AnJerM.-n'!<  siiii-im- 

preaecd  history  of  "  th"  ImproviButori!,"  anti  Lamaitine'a 

tfttcul  tsitt  of  "GrazicUii,  the  Maid  of  I«nbitt."     Tin- 

inh    bo<i«in«   Ktron^    ugaiii   to  Tt«it   Poin|ioii.   n^^iit   to 

|X|>lore  the  Oran^  cbd  bilU  of  Castellamare  anil  Sorrento, 

to  sail   over  the  lovely   blue  bay   to  Capri,  to  tho  axiiiu 

|rrvttu,  and  lo  Iwhia.     Imh-ed,  it  rvquiitd  a  clron:;  iiiiriit«l 

^ort  lo  drjif;  nn,-  (Wnn  the  (Jiroean  allon-iiieiit«  ii(  Naples 

back  to  ({uiet   Mfiitonn,  where  no  gn-nt  deeds  have  beta 

iidunv,    where    wro    inusl   be    tatii^liL-d    with    tde   charms  of 

I  nature,  aixl  where  Ute  monumenU  are  merely  thoae  of  thv 

henriii'i  early  career,  in  pni-bidorical  agva. 

At  that  time  altio  the  );rvat  and  g;lorious  politieal  events 
that  vlianictcrirA-d  the  foiimlation  of  United  Itnljr  vrcre 
.lieinf;  ico»mplinh>-d,  ami  Najileit  waa  a  centre  of  int«n8e 
iJitiloreBt.  The  Ifin;^,  Victor  Hmmanuel,  made  hiB  cnlmiKi: 
Bto  Ntpin  Kf  I  <va«  becomiitg  convalnwviit,  and  daily 
undor  my  windowm  (Nov.  tSSl) ;  the  entire  ]x>pula> 
tioii  were  wild  with  joy  at  their  detiveraoce  from  the 
Koutbuiie,  and  lit  Ihe  r<-[>eiiurdtion  of  their  native  country. 
I  saw,  Uki!wiiw>,  the  llaliuii  hero,  Uaritialdi,  and  that  under 
ciicumBtuncm  bo  creditable  to  him,  that  I  cannot  refrain 
from  mentioning  them. 

Alter  coMi|t«rrin;;  Sieily  with  hi*  one  ihouHund  folJfiwens. 
and  alter  Iiid  Irinniphant  prui^refs  through  tlie  ^foiitlt  •>!' 
Italy  from  liv^fpo  to  NapUiB,  he  hud  com«  over  to  that  oily 
to  aeu  hia  friend,  the  king,  and  insiHled  on  reniaiiiiu<; 
inco^CtiiU).  Ilu  lelt  tiiat  Die  )>o«itivfl  adoration  the  Ncapo^ 
lilana  eutertjiined  fur  iheir  deliverer  would  have  led  U> 
drmonatrat  iona  of  aiteh  an  cnthuainxtie  chanifiter  had  ho 
ahowu   himiiell',  Uuit  the  kin^   would  tiave  beoome  (|uito 


224 


WESTERS   ITALT. 


a  secondary  personage.  lie  tlicreforc  wtnt  to  nil  hotti, 
like  n  ]>riviitv  tnilivitluul,  ami  rt:t\i»i^  during'  liU  Iwi-iitjr- 
ftmr  liDure'  slay  lo  receive  any  dtrpiita lions,  or  iiiiieed  to 
allow  hif  presence  in  Naples  to  be  made  known.  Naples, 
liowcvrr,  iieari)  of  Iw  n<lvent,  and  th«  entire  wily  wiwt  wild 
to  «ce  him  and  kIiuw  him  Iioiiour.  I  impjiened  to  ri»iiL  tfant 
very  afternoon  the  En}>lieh  rending- room,  wliioh  whs  kept  by 
twoEnsliNh  Inilifx.  [  foimd  tlit-m  in  tht-anle-toont,  H'anditi^ 
and  <-onvtT»iiig  with  two  gentlemen,  one  of  ubom  was  (lari- 
baldi — a  mild,  amiaMe-lookin);  man,  of  middle  lii-it;ht,  with 
nothing  of  the  firi'-cat^-r  iiboul  Uiin.  In  u  few  minutn  Imi 
took  liiti  l«ave,  and  the  Udica  then  totd  me  that  they  had 
known  him  intimately  for  many  years,  and  that  that 
mornin;^  he  h>d  sunt  word  that  lie  would  t^me  and  lunch 
wilti  them  in  jirivate.  True  to  hix  ivnrd,  hi!  came  at  the 
time  appointed,  and  remained  two  hours  in  their  little 
homely  pnrloiir,  cnling  fruit,  conversint;,  and  singing  aongs. 
This  little  trait  chows  the  nmiuUc  simplicity  and  warm- 
hearted  faithfulne«s  of  the  hero.  When  all  Naples  wiM 
anxious  lo  full  at  his  feet,  and  the  kin^  of  his  making  was 
waitinp  nnxioncty  lo  loud  him  with  honourK,  lie  prt-ferrfd 
devoting  Iiis  nflernoon  to  the  agciety  of  two  humhle  I'riendfl 
of  former  d:iys. 

If  the  fasL-iiintion  oxcreised  l>y  the  l>ay  '>f  Naples  la  so 
great  that  itie  invalid  tourixt  eunnot  pussiliiy  tear  himself 
away,  1  should  recommend  htm  to  muke  the  inland  of 
Capri  his  lieBd-<inurters,  The  island  is  of  limeictone— • 
heulthivr  tfi^ologicid  lortnation  than  the  suk  tufa  rock  of 
Naples.  Tlie  popujnttou  ia  amall,  the  seenery  iiiterestiny, 
and  llicre  are  several  hotels  wli^re  ti'lernbly  (.■omfortabTe 
qnarten  may  he  obtained.  Itien  there  aru  no  maraltes, 
and  the  air  ia  const.iutlv  purififd  by  the  sea-breeije.  Thfl 
Niiplis  physicians  sre  m  the  halitt  of  sending  conva 
li-vcenta  (iieie,  and  with  the  lj|>-t  rvsultn.  In  liut;  wea' 
tliore  is  daily  comioHnication  with  the  mainland  by  boat 
and  Mteamer;  bnt  in  winter,  in  bad  weather,  the  commu- 
nication iii  Mimetimes  interrupted  for  week*.  Tlie  iaolation 
is  then  nearly  as  great  as  that  of  Garibaldi  at  bis  islaoi 
homo  of  Csprvra. 

The  iidanti  of  Capri  is  a  pi4-tiire»>iiM:  man  of  rock*,  ni 


I 


CAPRI — XIBEBIUa 


225 


milts  in  circumferoncp,  and  tn-o  ami  a  half  in  wiilUi, 
riluaU-il  at  tUu  otitstdo  or  the  buy  of  Nui>U!k,  tweuty  tnilca 
from  tliiit  city,  t«-u  miicM  from  tlie  uuHtern  cape  o)'  the 
bay,  U'n  mili-»  from  the  western  cape,  or  Cape  Misi-uo,  and 
forma  a  epccics  ol'  amphitheatre  fucini;  Nnpl's  on  tint  Durth. 
It  in  a  very  lovely  little  i^lniid,  j"srg<''i  ^""1  >rrej[ular  in 
outline,  n  perfeH  cliaoft  of  roolu,  und  a  charming  residemv 
for  a  month  or  two  iu  e.irly  autumn  or  in  Eprin-;,  but  not 
for  midwinter.  The  northern  exjioFiire  of  tliii  isluixl  and] 
its  ditttaucc  from  thi-  prutcctinf'  Apeiininrn,  leave  it  ivithont 
defvtiw  againft  the  n»rtliern  vvinda.  Friends  and  patients 
I  who  have  wintered  there  nil  agree  tJiat  they  had  a  great 
1  of  rough  weather  to  eneountcr,  much  more  than  on 
Biviein,  owin^T'to  the  (.-omplcle  ubNenec  of  pruteetiou 
9ID  thenorthcni  qnarters.  Ita  eauthern  shore  is  a  precipi- 
tous rock  many  handrcd  feet  high. 
Cuprt  is  full  of  rccolleclion«  of  TibertuK  th«  Roman 
■JT,  who  ]MU>sed  the  IuhI  ten  yean  of  his  life  there, 
bulging  in  ever)'  ttpet-ieii  of  debauchery  and  crime.  Up 
bis  elevation  to  the  empire,  at  the  mature  nge  of  Rfiy^ 
ire,  Tiberius  had  been  known  only  a*  it  great  warrior  and 
(Lesmun,  us  u  \«i»e,  virtuous  L-iliKen,  iw  a  ^ood  huitWnd, 
and  father.  Then,  singularly,  at  an  dua  when  even  viciuii 
men  ollen  abdicate  their  vices,  Tiberius,  uiidor  tho  in-J 
flu«n«o  ofa  kind  of  momt  insanity,  threw  himself  liuadlongJ 
into  every  spcciis  of  vruelty  and  sensual  indulgence, 
and  that  in  such  a  shatneleta  manner  as  to  raise  tha 
indtgDsUon  of  even  this  depraved  age  (a.d.  14).  '  Cupri, 
wboro  hfl  retired,  apparently  the  Iteltt-r  to  give  untram- 
imelled  M-ope  to  his  cruelty  and  passionci,  retains  to  this 
'day  the  impress  of  iiis  presence.  The  ruins  of  liis  palace, 
of  his  prisons,  and  of  bis  batlis  arc  still  shown.  Above  all, 
the  memur}'  of  his  nearly  unpandlcied  vices  remains  ns  a 
kind  of  pallover  the  beauUruI  isUod.  It  still  lives  vividly, 
after  nearly  two  thousand  years,  in  the  memory  of  tti« 
ptasaut  inhabitants. 

Dr.  BiKhuji — then  the  leading  Knples  physician,  now 
practising  in  Paris — told  me  the  history  of  a  countryman, 
which  is  not  only  interesting,  but  poinla  out  a  danger — a 
bidden  rock  ou  the  path   of  the   couvalcvncnt  x>btUistcul 


226 


WESTERN   ITAI-y. 


patient,  and   tliereforo  dwerv«   to   be    re«;a^   from  o' 
livion.     This  jtcntlcmiin  ciim«  to  Niiplcs  m  a  i^oiilirmml 
plitliiiiicitl    inviiliil.     A!thoU|fI)    iii    iin    ntlvuiicotl    «tii^e   of 
di^tase  lio   rulli<.-d,    and   apiiaivDlly    regained  Win   hculth. 
UnforttiDiiti'ly  he  b^nmi!  diwperately  attached   to  a  verjr 
hiimli^>m<i  yoiiii^   Itnlinn  giil,  Wlow  him  in  itocini  rank> 
Uidilcfi   the   hvui  of  Lnniartiiie's   ln^iilHul    talu  of  (in 
zii'llft,  lie  married  the  object  of  his  atf'i-ctions,  aud  reti 
with  her   to    live  nt   CHpn.     This    iimvi^e  step,  howevei^ 
inv"lv<^d   hitn    in  many   piiiiitid  and   Irving  ordeid?.     Thi 
Ntnrtit  of    litiman    pii»!-ii>iia    Inid    uW    liei'n    rouiFed   in    « 
unRoiind  cons-titiition.     It  was  the  leaky  ship  goinjj;  to  ne*, 
and  exposed  to  the  tempest  and  to  the  hurncane.     DisoaN 
relumed,  and   made  a  rapid  progrerf,  and   as  this  time 
nothing  could  arrest  it,  his  exiatenee  soon  t«rininat«Hl.        ^^ 

Leaky  veM(.-ls  should  remain  in  port,  where,  like  Nelson^^H 
old  ship,  tlic  f'ic/ory,  tiny  may  long  riile  with  dignity  on      ' 
the  vmocith   watoot  that  mirmiind   tlK-m.     The  buttle  of 
life— its  storms  aud  temi^st^t— mostt  bo  icll  to  the  yoniig 
and   to  the  stronif.     The  convale'eent  phthisical  patient 
ahould  ever  recollect  tliut  be  benrs  within  him  the  aeede 
of  death,  thnt  his  diwiise  may   retuni  any  day,  that  hi 
live^  oil    Kiitfernnoe,    and    should     act   awoidingly. 
aeliial   truth  should   l<e  known,  courageously  recognl 
and  thoroughly  accepted. 

As  I  havi-  prfvioiii'ly  st.ited,  1hi>  iinprefston  mailc  npon 
my  niind  by  the  sanitury  survey  of  the  prineipiil  health 
towns  of  llaly  was  unsatisfiictory  in  the  exlreme.  The 
authors  wboKc  works  I  have  rend  on  winter  climates  have, 
it  Hjipeam  tu  me,  mode  nn  extraordinary,  but  all- important 
omisMon.  They  have  studied  winds,  sunshine,  eloitd, 
t«mperatiire,  protection,  and  all  tliu  various  elements 
whith  constitute  climate,  forgctiintr  hggifHf. 

And  yet,  are  not  the  laws  of  hygit^ue  of  more  importanoo 
to  the  invalid  than  all  the  rest  put  together?  Of  win 
avail  is  it  to  place  a  patient  tJulTering  from  a  constitution! 
disease,  sucli  as  phthisis,  in  the  most  favourable  cliinat« 
condition,  if  every  law  of  hygiene  is  violated— if"  ho  ia 
made  to  live  in  the  very  midKt  of  biidly-d rained,  badljr- 
venlitatcd  towns,  Miieh  as  Florence,  Rum«,  Naples,  Vukocia, 


M      I 

ia 

r 


80UTBEBN  TOWNS  UXHYGIKNIC. 


227 


or  M«Iao:a?  lu  these  tinhealthjf  centres  of  southern  pojflt- 
lation,  where  the  ntort«Hty  i»  iiilbituiilly  very  Iit^h  iitii<iti;;Ht 
the  ho^llhy  nntivi-ii,  mueh  highiT,  as  we  have  iteeti,  than 
in  0(ir  moHt  unwhulesome  iiiAuufiicturins  localities,  whitt 
right  have  we  to  expect  the  t^cnerul  henllh  of  otir  piitientH 

'  to  rally  ?  Id  nulity,  it  wouhl  he  \a  reuMonalilv  to  Keiid 
ooDHumptiTe  {Mtienttt  in  the  summer  months  ta  live  in  the 
worst  parts  of  Wbitechapel,  Liverpool,  or  Glapgow,  as  it 
is  to  Ecml  them  in  wiiitt-r  to  live  in  the  ccntT«  of  these 
uiihi'iilthy  southern  towns. 

I»  I'onuer  days,  when  the  laws  of  hytfiene  were  isnoreJ 
by  the  me<dical  profi-stiiun  as  well  as  by  the  nonini-dioiil 
puliiic,  when  fcvt-nt  and  pliignw  wens  merely  studied  and 
treated  an  instirutiihle  dtHpensationa  of  Divine  wrath,  it 
was,  i>erbApfl,  escasahle  lor  writers  on  climate  to  devole 
their  nndividod  attention  to  meleurnlo^ricnlqiKslioTis.    But 

|£ow  that  the  nii»t  and  darktie-tM  have  bi-en  diHj'i'llcil,  that 
typhoid  fever,  dysentery,  and  other  town  disnasis  liii^c  lieon 

l^lraeed  to  their  causes — tiltli, defective  ventilation  aiul  limin- 

lage, — vre  know  thnt  atk-ntiou  to  hygiene  is  even  more 
Bry  for  Uic  recovery  of  health  Itian  for  ifs  n'tention. 
In  choosing  a  winter  residence,  therefore,  hygienic  con- 
ditions should  be  first  considered,  even  before  warmth  and 

[  sunshine. 

If  1V0  are  to  1>e  f^ttdctl  by  such  considerations,  however, 
I  muKt  candidly  e^mftsa  that  1  have  not  yet  MMiii  ■  Uirgt 
town  in  the  S'Hith  of  Kiirope  (the  health  quarters  of  Nice 
and  Pan  excepted),  the  hyj^ienie  stale  of  which  is  em-h  as 
to  render  it  a  safe  winter  rvaidenee  for  an  tnviilid.  1  n  most 
of  these  towns,  moreover,— towns  such  as  thu!<c  I  have  just 
named,— the  positions  selected  for  and  devoted  to  iiivulida 
are  central,  and  owe  their  proleetion  in  a  great  mvasiire  to 
building*,  whieh  (teeiirt-  Xo  them  the  town  utmuHphere 
undiliite<].  'ilius  are  explained  the  frequent  deaths  from 
"  fever"  amongst  our  eonntfymen,  ill  or  well,  residing  in 
them,  which  we  every  year  see  chronicled.  On  the  spot 
you  are  told  that  they  haro  died  from  the  fever  of  "the 
country."  But  this  fever  of  the  country,  as  far  as  I  can 
gather  from  minute  inquiry,  is  no  other  than  our  own  eld 
enemy,  typhoid,  under  a  continental  garb.     Its  charaelcrietic 

<i2 


228 


THE  WESTERN  UIVIERA. 


fttUircs  ni»y  Ic  modifipd  by  some  malurious  or  calarri 
^miL-nt,  Iml  Die  t)'|W  w  tlic  Mtnc.  The  caiioc,  too,  is 
idi^titicil  \a  tint  Italian  mirble  tialiicc  unci  iti  tliL'  St.  Giles** 
liovel — foul  air  innde and  outride  tlie  house— etorjwlieTe. 

Iliivinp  failed  to  discover  any  more  Bhplt«n>d  spot  than 
th«  MciDlom*  amphitlii'atn-,  in  tlio  raiterii  Kivii-nk,  and  in 
Wtstern  Italy,  1  determined,  on  leaving  (Jenoa,  to  minutely 
exnmine  the  weftcrn  Itiviera,  along  whic-h  there  nru  ninny 
]io|iiiloiic  tov>nii  iiml  vtllDgi-«.  Each  «ic<;e*HVC  (.liition— 
Bavunu,  Fin;i1<-,  Oneglia,  San  Keino,  Ventimiglia— uoh  «?x- 
Binincd.anil  nbiindoncd  as  inferior,  unlil  1  onee  more  lonn* 
myfeirin  tin;  well-rememljered  cite  «f  my  previons  winter' 
experience.  The  oonviclion  wliinh  thixjourDfy  [irodiii-cd,  thi 
the  Men  tone  amphitheatre  aUbrdssuiierior  protection  loan;^ 
to  lie  (bnnd  hetwcvn  it  and  Pic^n,  on  either  Riviera,  is  at  one*' 
explained  liy  reference  to  the  mii|>*  in  ihii;  work. 

On  no  piirt  of  the  coaAt  do  the  inounluitiB  in  the  imme> 
diate  vicinity  riflc  in  a  ehuin  to  the  same  height — mimely, 
from  3600  to  4000  feet.  Nowhere  do  they  rewfde  in  tiie 
same  manner  from  the  ehoro  in  the  form  of  an  unlinikcn 
umpliithvatn-,  t>o  aa  to  completely  ahelter  from  the  nnrth, 
mmt,  and  west  a  hilly  district  Nuch  as  the  one  which  vonsti- 
ttite«  the  oentie  of  the  Mentone  region.  Nowhere  hIko  is 
tliei*  snch  a  iMickfrround  of  >til]  higlxir  niounLains  lying  due 
north,  so  »*i  to  protect  in  itii  turn  the  semioircuiar  shore 
chain.  Thib  backt^round  of  mountain-land  extends  lifly  miles 
to  the  uiTth  into  Savoy,  and  i«  limited  only  in  that  direc* 
tion  bv  theTenda,  a  chuin  which  rises  irora  70UU  to  !)000 
feet,  'rhese  hi<;hcr  monutaiDS  extend  towards  the  shore  in  a 
BODth-cni'terly  direction,  iini)  reaeh  it  nt  Finale,  more  than 
half-way  Ueiween  Ni(«  and  (ienoa.  lletween  <ien'ia  and 
Finale  the  mountaius  which  ekirt  thoshore  are  neither  very 
deep  nor  vi-ry  liigli ;  hctweon  Kiimle  and  Nice  ihi'  depth  and 
height  of  ttiv  northern  mountain-land  constantly  incn-aHe. 
Consequently,  the  amount  of  protection  offered  from  llie 
north  incrca««  in  tbu  same  ratio,  until  at  Mentone  the 
|;n-atvst  amount  of  protection  and  shelter  and  undoubtedly 
tlie  warmeet'  climate  of  the  entire  Hitiera  are  reached. 

The  various  towns  which  skirt  tho  coilfI  arc  f^nerally 
plM«d  at  the  mouth*  of  tli«  rivers  which  form  tlieir  jiorte, 


I 


8A.N  BEMO. 


229 


and  tlie  riv«N  of  conrso  empty  tliomsDlves  from  valleyB 

wliich    break   Uie    tnouiitaiii-line.      Tliuoe    valleys   lioinjf 

[Dearly  always  directed   oorth  and  south,  or  tWrcaboutii, 

rmoft  of  the   towne  arc   placed  in   the  coldest    situutiona 

on    the   ooawt,  at  t)ie  entrance  of  brojikt;  in  the  mountam- 

ohain,  down  wkici)  the  cold  u-indx  IjIuw.     A  glimceutthe 

I  VCifeUition   shoivs  this  :    Orauge- trees  retreat,    and  Oliven 

Will  Pinnt  take  liieir  pIiKt'.     Ilure   iind  there,  aa  the  road 

winds  alonji;  the  const,  iihellered  nook*  and  nitnantic  littlo 

bays  are  seen  at  one's  feet,   where  the  Orun^   and  tbo 

iljumon,  Um)  Caciits  and  the  Carouba<tree,  seem  to  thrive 

[luxuriantly,  finding  the  same  warmth  and  ihelter  as  at 

TMentoue.     But  in  these  exoeptional  ennturs  there  is  gena- 

I  roily   no   population — scarcely  a  house;  the  traveller  can 

'only  admire   iind   piiKK  oh.     A^iiin,  in   the   Itivteru  towns 

the  itdiuhitants  are  thoroughly  Italian;  th«y   still   live  nii 

Doeciironi,  olive-oil,  soup,  and  bread,  racely  indulging;  in 

at,  aix]  i<rnDre  entirely  the  multitudinous   wanis   and 

rRquiremtiiita    of    our    "dilTieult-to-pleaao"     cuuntryraen. 

■These   towns   will   have   to   be  raised   to  a  much  hitflief 

[civilization  level    bclbre  they  can   be   iidoptvl   iw  winter 

rreiiiiluniv*  by  iuvulitlf.     I  am  persuaded,    however,  that  in 

Ihe  oiiurw  uftimu  their  day  will  come. 

An  exception  may  even  now  be  maile  in  Tavour  o\'  San 
^£emn,  which  participates  in  the  H[jecial  prot«-etion  met 
'with  alMontoue.  San  Kerauis  uttiwnorsume  importance, 
■t>out  liltecu  miles  east  of  Mentouo.  It  has  .11,001) 
inlitiliiliMits,  and  many  hoiutON  on  the  uut«kii't!>  of  the  town 
that  nii^ht  bo  mode  a^i-twable  to  straufittn.  Moreover,  it 
is  iu  Italy  IhorouKhly  lulinn,  and  the  Italian  langua;je 
is  ttpokcn,  altliou);h  n»t  with  >;reitl  purity. 

The  example  of  Mentoiie,  the  faiit  that  laud  iu  the 
Mentonian  amphitheatre  has  decupled  in  value  within  th« 
last  ton  years,  has  awnkeued  the  proprietors  of  San  Uento 
^  tbe  gtt»i  money  value  of  the  northern  invalids.  Several 
and  eoralortable  hot«U  have  been  built,  and  a  number 
'  villas  have  also  been  erected  for  str4ii}«ers.  Althuti^rh 
picturesi|UJ  than  Mentone,  and  tiiliWH  milM  furlher 
from  Nice,  a  great  druwbiwk,  San  Kemo  dtiserveis  the 
patrunaj{«  of  winter  emigrants.     The  cllmite  is  the  sama 


Mlhal  «ftlw  mttUn  bar  St  UtUbam,  ud  aado«bt  all 
wbo  do  well  at  tb«  one  wotdd  do  w«U  at  t^  atkcr.  I  had 
1»opcd  Uiat  H  wmtU  ba  loa  expnorrv,  b«t  I  dn  aet  Sod 
tut  tbm  ii  Doch  dlfcuaw.  No*-  do  I  xhmk  thme  wilt  be 
St  aDjeftbe  BiTiefakowBa,oaeelfa(j'hanbccB  ^ 
■p  to  the  atandud  nqaind  ■■  ■  ■iai—i  by  i 
iW  expesM  of  baafeiR  af  fcnMfciag,  aad  mT  abfciiwiag 
ponsaoos  bom  a  datmcf,  aoM  be  fwlty  neailjr  the  nne 
errtT-wbeie. 

Otnpetitioa,  bowrfer,  is  wboleaome,  aad  Uiovr  wtw  b«4 
with  BO  aceoauDodatioo  to  tbctr  tarte  at  Ni»  aoii)  Mi^laoe, 
who  wiah  tolirdljr  to  annd  the  pleaaaRS,  MawJwktDcata 
aod  aaaranf  Uoaaco,  or  wbo  anMaaaat  to  be  aetuaUjr 
oa  ItaHaa  aoQ,  aiaj  waSdj  fma  eo,  aad  117  San  Bobou 
As  lb«  Engluh  eoMar  jttLfiaif  the  aeocMguwdatiaa  will 
Mudy  imjiruv^,  as  it  has  improred  at  Mentooe,  and  ac  it 
JMpnTai  ia  all  cnDliaratal  to<rtM  which  are  patroaiaad  b^ 
oar  eoQiloft-lonng  oonntryinen. 

Bofdii^hCTa,  tota  OiiW  froai  Saa  Reois,  and  dem 
from  Meutone,  t«  a  toane  of  ii)l«r«t  to  all  tnvcflers,  aa 
the  Mene  of  the  advcnlnrrs  of  Dr.  Anloaio.  The  [>ru- 
atoBtciy,  on  the  tommil  of  which  it  rtancls,  jata  out  iaUt 
the  MM,  »o  ae  to  fonn  a  vety  ooiMfnctKwie  aoa  ptetana^ 
tH^feti  all  along  the  watera  eoart,  as  far  ai  Meoaoo  aad 
evea  Atilibcii.  It  appean  Icm  pMrturaqiic,  howerer,  oa  • 
tMir  apim'sch,  and  tuTns  out  to  be  merely  ooe  of  the  •mall 
cirnm|W-tii>  Italiao  town*,  of  which  there  are  a  acuro  akMi{> 
the  coast,  all  very  much  alike.  Theeuliuflii  pnsent  nolhiDg 
Virr)'  iiilefestinj;,  with  the  excqilion  of  the  lar-ramed  I'ulm 
giovra.  In  tbcac  ip«vi«,  ivhii:h  earrouDd  the  town  on  all 
•uIm,  ihonaandfl  of  I^ilnM  arc  snvcittg  ntlh  truiv  Orieatal 
:VitC>"r  und  lusiimnce,  atid  ^ive  a  very  Kuslei a  diameter 
to  tlie  Iindwape.  They  are  of  all  sizies,  from  a  few  feet 
■liove  a  huiidn.t],  and  of  all  a-:e«,  Ironi  a  low  yeara  to . 
tboound  or  niofr.  In  the  {^anli-n  of  the  Freneh 
Blora  eapeeially,  ure  to  he  found  nohle  and  majestic  e|i 
oanw  Ml  thit  liniutifDl  tfee ;  mauy  of  them  he  Utld  me  w< 
more  tJuin  a  tbouMUMj  years  old.  The  spot  on  which  thoy  are 
■ituati'i]  wua  the  garden  of  a  ■nonaktfry  of  DominioanH,  in 
eery  byjfoiw  dity>,  more  thao  a  thouaand  years  aga     It 


^^^ 

M 

^^^^^^^^^'.  ■^^^^^^H^B  R^aHnKW*  iv  'Mffrvi 

I 

^^^Bf   iJKg^                  ^^^^1 

^^^^^^^^^^^B^i  "^^^^^H 

ili ' 

.^>^;       "    ;j^_,           .  V,-, 

nnn 

Rfflf 

•^^ 

1 

i«  ■':/  ^  .^^*f":  .  ■    " 

ISI^H^H^E'    ^'' 

H  ^w  nB^^^^^^^^S^Xw." 

^B                                      THE   FU.I1   OBOVK  At   KKOIOaitBA. 

BOKDIOKEBA — THE  PALM  GROOVES. 


231;^ 


was  tUcse  monks  who  introduced  itnd  planted  llio  Palm-tree 
in  the  district.  Muny  of  thoee  existing  were  actually 
pluuted  ill  tliiF,  thv  olden  timo,  by  tho  monkf,  uf  wlioia , 
not  atraoe,  iiuta  veKli-;er>>miiiiii«,  with  thv  vxcc^tioii  ofthcso  ' 
thoir  fAvoiirite  treea.  The  acooinpanviii^  u-imd  engraving 
will  enulilfl  tlio  rand«r  to  form  some  lUtle  idea  of  tlia. 
Oriental  cbanicUir  of  the  ec«n«,  wliich  is  well  worth 
iwsaintf  viail.  Tlie  fioriliglicni  I'iiIi»k,  bitwtivcr,  ure  not" 
«o  beatitjful  as  those  ol'  Elabe  in  Spain,  or  of  the  Africaa 
det«rt,  owin^  perhaps  to- their  leaves  bein;;  ceneniUy 
tied  up.  Itgnli^her.t  supplies  Romv  witb  Palms  for  Pulia 
Sunday,  and  ax  the  Ikihicm  in  for  tbetn  to  ha  white, 
the  le.ivee  are  thu^  artilioijlly  Mandtel.  It  is  this  liict> 
tlw  monopoly  of  the  supply  to  llome,  that  «spUiiie  the 
existence  of  the  P.ilm  grove* ;  they  citn  bo  cultivuted 
protitubly  at  Uordif^hera  and  nowhere  elae.  They  would 
grow  on  any  part  of  lbs  more  sitelt^rod  regions  of  ihe 
lliviera,  fnira  Nice  to  Finale,  but  then  their  eultivatiou 
would  i>e  olt't^i^ther  pniiitlexs,  m  they  do  not  ripec  tlieir 
fruit  on  the  north  shore  ul'  the  Mediterranean. 

It  is  possible  that  the  siliceous  sand  that  comes  down  tb«  i 
vullcy  of  the  Hoyu  from  the  Teiida  moiinUin,  and  formil 
tilt-  alluvial  sandy  flat  bi-tween  Ventimi;:tia  and  Botd;;;herii 
conlribiUes  to  the  health  and  well-being  of  the  Palms. 
Alihiiiigh  they  certainly  will  ^^row  in  calcareous  soil*,  I 
have  always  found  *awi,  both  in  Kiiro|)C  and  in  Africa,  in 
the  soil  of  the  ri'giuus  where  they  thrive  and  are  the  most 
luxiuiiint. 

Tlie  Itordighera  Pulm  grove*  botng  only  cloven  miloa 
dislant  are  a  favourite  picnic  resort  of  the  Mentunian^,  and 
most  of  us  have  pleasant  recollections  connected  with  tlicii 
atately  shade.  There  arc  two  hotels  at  llordighcra ;  aud 
sevent  villus  as  alxo  an  Kn;4lUb  church  have  keen  builU 
llie  lallur  is  the  Ki^V  of  a  resident,  Mrs.  FimshHWU, 

Four  miles  rurtber  we  come  to  Vcatimigli^,  at  the  moat 
of  ihc  Hnyn  valley.     It  la  a  town  of  seven  thousand  inbi 
bittnts,  furmerly  fortitleJ,  »nd  is  interesting  us  a  spwcimtfM 
of  Riviera  towns  unmoiilied  by  strangers.     Situated  at  th« . 
moulh  of  a  wide  valW  ojMtning  north,  Ytntiintglu  is  not, 
and  probjbly  never  will  be,  a  health  station.    It  is,  bow- 


232 


THH  WESTERN    Rn'IRRA. 


erer,  ono  of  the  farourit«  drives  from  Mentone,  and  bctwMfl 
the  two  etatioQB  there  are  many  lovi-ly  Ehcltcrcd  nook»  ami 
cornpr^,  on  the  couet  Mae  and  on  th'«  hilU  abore.  tbtj 
will  i-vi-ntuAJIv  be  oiiloiitxed  by  tliow  who,  makm^  » 
southern  iteltlement,  want  space,  a  few  ncrcs  of  ]ar<],  with- 
out pAyJng  the  fabulous  price  now  ticked  in  the  M«nU>ne^^ 
tmphitlicatrc.  ^H 

Tims  we  gradually  get  back  to  little  Mentone  in  tt^^^ 
smiling  amphitheatre  of  hills,  the  view  of  which  is  nBarlf 
OS  Wautiful  when  wo  demand  to  it  from  the  tut  ns  when 
we  dencend  to  it  from  the  went. 

Mentone  was  built,  like  all  other  Italian  town?,  for  Uie 
piirpot'c  of  defence,  and  is  no  esception,  therefore,  to  tlio 
Kivii.>ni  mil-.  Moid  of  it»  (lUler  utrt'i-ts  uro  ixiiileitM  lane«,  s 
few  feet  wide,  but  the  visitors  hare  notliintc  to  do  with 
them,  and  never  need  enter  them  itnle«e  it  be  to  -tratify 
curioMly.  !t  is,  however,  cleaner  ihan  the  prent  Italian 
towns,  i>wing  to  the  greut  value  of  Uie  refuse.  Th«  people 
— an  iiidtistrioua  race — have  to  eullivate  the  rocky  terraees, 
and  have  no  posturajfe,  no  cattle  hut  donkeys  and  mules. 
They  huFhand  their  mauitre,  tliercf"re,  with  jciilouw  care, 
and  let  none  e«cii]i(!  into  the  ma  or  elH-where.  Tbi^  remar]( 
applies  also  to  all  the  villages  and  towns  on  the  lliviera. 

Thus,  neither  the  land  nor  the  «on  are  poisoned  an  in 
larger  towns  of  tlic  Meditc>rruni-an  eouat,  un<)uisilionablr 
one  of  the  (jreat  health  advantages  of  small  localities,     ft 
in  worth  all   the  ruins  ami  art  Irctuurcs  of  Italy  to  th< 
real    iiivulit),    with    whom    the    main    point   ik  to  Mtve 
pioloH);  life,  not  tctupomry  artistic  or  Kuciul  pleasure  and' 
»mn>«mcnt. 

The  Cienoese  Riviera  censcfi,  gcoffraphicnily,  at  Nice,  th' 
Brijfhton  of  the  Medilerruni-nn.  llut  Antibex,  Golf  Juan, 
and  Cannes  may  ha  said  to  Iwlong  to  it  roeteoroloirically 
anil  holaniciilly.  They  are  sheltered  from  the  north-west 
wind  or  tniKlral  by  the  I-^tcrel,  from  the  north  by  tlie 
nKitinlains  behind  Cintide,  from  the  noith-cjis'l  by  the 
hiifher  ridges  of  the  maritime  Alps.  The  vegetation  ii 
the  Kumc  as  in  tho  Riviera,  bat  with  a  diSerenee  aa  to 
degree,  llie  protection  buing  inoonipleto,  tho  winds  are 
stronger,  ant)  in  celd  exceptional  weather  the  thcrnioiUttt«r 


CANNBe — HYRRE8. 


238 


taWa  ]ovrer.  Cannes  is  now  an  e^ituMished  favourite,  one  of 
the  mrMt  Sourishinpf  ED}>li8l)  wiiiUir  colouin  on  the  McJU 
ti'rnuiiMui. 

Cros-iimt  the  K^iterel  vn  come  to  Hy&res,  near  Toulon, 
lon^  the  favourite  winter  station  for  invalids  on  this  coast. 
HycrcH  is  half  a  de^c,  thirty  miles,  mora  south  thim 
Cannon  or  Menli>nc.  Tho  mm  in  iw  |iowei'fiil,  the  Jiumm -r 
heat  as  ^reat,  but  Ihtin  tho  moont^iiu  sUelt«r  ia  Ie«s  even 
thttn  nt  Cannes,  so  the  mistral  or  iioi'th-west  wind  often 
blowa  with  violence  in  aiitiimii  and  t-prin^.  Henc^-  thit 
tide  of  iiivulidiHrn  and  fn^hion  now  wi"  eautwanl.  It  ih 
still,  however,  much  patrtini/<.nl  hy  the  Kreiifh,  and  hy 
eonto  of  onr  older  physicians,  true  tu  thepnrtialilies  of  their 
younger  i)ay«.  In  some  cokcs  Hyi'.r«e  bun  un  iiilvni)ta<rc 
over  all  the  coo^t  loivnit  we  have  named  on  the  Itiviera. 
It  is  thive  miles  from  the  sea,  so  that  persons  to  ^rhom  tho 
|>rDxiiitity  to  tho  sen  is  disa^rM-ahlu  or  p^^^lil■i<^ull  may 
h«re  take  refu^',  and  still  enjoy  iu  winl«r  the  advanUi^i-s 
of  the  Biiinxhitie  and  utmoitph«rie  drynefs  of  the  north 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  as  facilities  for  travdlin); 
have  iuereaiwd,  the  winter  miration  of  invalidism  has 
descended  more  to  the  south  and  to  the  east,  Whuii 
oommunicalion  with  and  on  the  continent  was  dlttiuult, 
our  own  mnilaria  and  Mad<:ira,  no  uoc«^ible  by  sua, 
answered  Ibe  purpose.  As  travellin)!^  facilities  increii^od, 
Mdiitjwlier,  Pnii,  llyeres,  Nice,  Cannes,  successively  ln-cuino 
faviiiiritei,  Owin)*  to  the  impolKu  ^iven  bv  thi^  work 
and  my  teaching,  the  (}eniieti<:  Riviera  ha«  been  invoilei), 
and  colonized  by  tile  tribe  of  invalids.  But  the  move- 
ment will  not  stop  there ;  when  thu  InJinn  mail  cruote* 
fruni  Snlonica  in  Thenuly  to  Alexandria  in  forty-eiifht 
houn",  and  there  are  Hteamboata  and  comtortable  hotfis 
on  till-  Upper  Nile,  a  propoition  of  tho  wull-to-do  invalids 
will  no  doubt  every  yuur  got  up  nearly  a«  far  ikt  the  upper 
wutcTB  of  that  DO  longer  mysterious  nver. 


EjISTBRS    ITALY. 


I  As  I   have  already  stated,  the  great  political,  pleatiuro, 

I     and  health  cities  of  Italy,  Uenoa,  Fisa,   l^'loi-ence.   Home, 


2S4 


EJLSTEEK   ITALY. 


Nnplee,  Salerno,  am  all  on  the  vteat  eidc  of  tho  Apcnni' 
and  tlius  Kli(.-It«rvd  from  the  nortli-wnt  wimiw. 
Genoese  Kivicru  licloii^  to  tliii  tlitt  wfatern  or  prelected 
half  of  Italy.  Bologna  belongs  Xo  the  rich  piniiis  of 
I'ii'i) mont  and  is  on  the  high  road  from  Ihonvo  to  Florence. 
South  of  Bulo[>nn  there  arc  no  towns  of  any  iin[)orIuii<.-6 
in  a  )iolitieal,  nrtintiv,  or  hialth  t^eime,  for  Anoonn,  Bari, 
Voffun,  Urindisi,  'I'aranto,  cannot  be  considered  such. 

1  had  long  wished  to  explore  the  curtern  division 
Italy,  bnt  hiid  alvrays  i^ne  with  the  crowd  south  and 
west,  until  the  spring  of  li^72.  SUiiin^  for  an  enetent 
tour,  and  having  to  embark  at  Urindisi,  I  resolved  to 
mak«  a  leitfurely  progress  through  thu  Adriiitic  proviuci 
of  Italy  on  my  way  soutli. 

I  was  anxiuns  to  learn  by  ocular  demonstration  ho 
thCMO  provincoii  fared  in  spring  without  the  protection  which 
tlie  Apenniiii'H  itffiird  to  the  weHti.-rn  coaat.  1  may  safely 
sseert  that  all,  or  neiirly  all,  that  has  been  written  about 
the  climate  and  veKClalion  of  Italy  iii'plies  only  to  its 
WCBtern  or  protected  shores.  The  i-astcm  or  unprolevtvd 
Adriiitic  provinei-s,  are  wldom  viKiHii  by  toiiriKU.  and 
G«ldom  even  alluded  to  by  the  authors  of  travels  in  Italy 
So  it  has  been  for  ages.  Italy  has  lived  id  history, 
acieticc,  and  in  art,  on  her  western  whores. 

1  It'll  Mi-ntone  April  the  lOth.  The  vog«tation  on 
sbeltered  and  sun-warmed  shotea  of  the  (Ji-noese  Itivicra, 
at  CunncK,  at  Niee,  at  Mentone,  at  Sun  Kcmo,  was  that  of 
the  Kimlh  of  Knt^liind  at  the  end  of  the  fiM  or  teeond 
week  in  June.  Sjiriiig  tliiwers  were  over;  the  BankBian 
and  Bengal  Roses  had  been  some  tim«  in  full  hlonm,  a* 
also  ihu  IjcnioD  tncs.  Hybrid  Ito»es  and  the  Orange 
trcfs  were  nigndiy  curaing  into  llower;  deciduous  trees. 
Planes,  Oil ks,  Figs,  were  rapidly  coming  into  leaf;  Willo 
had  long  been  iu  full  leaf,  Viuos  were  about  to  llower. 
nun  i]uil«  1-ummer. 

At  (ienoa  vegetation  was  nearly    as   far   advanced 
with  ns,   but  ou  jwnaing  out  of  the  Apcnnini'S  into   t 
flat    plains    of    Piedmont,    which    are    exposcJ    1o    t' 
tioiihrrn  bUNia  rushing  down  from  the  Alp»,  loo  diatant 
tu  (iroteot  them,   a  cliunge  caiii«  over   the  spirit  of  if 


era.         I 


BOLOONA. 


235 


dream— we    wrat    baolc   six    »vei'kit.     There   was   not   an 
Orange,  a  Lemon,  a  Pulm,  or  even  a  Fig  tree  to  be  seen, 

iitns  to 


The  Poplars,  Willow^*,  and   V; 


judt  III 


lovrf,  and   vines  were 

were   iiakecl, 

the  Cherry  and  Hawthnni  in  flDwer;  cereals  were  two 
inchi.-e  from  the  ground,  and  rather  yellow,  »»  if  they 
had  reci'iilly  hcen  exposed  to  severe  cold.  Moreover, 
there  wan  a  eold  north-cnst  wind  blowing,  ituoh  aa  I  had 
not  once  Telt  durini;  the  winter  at  Mentone.  It  was 
evident  that  in  these  Piedmontese  plains  the  actual  froMtfl 
of  winter  must  l>e  severe,  and  tbat,  owiii^  to  Um  alienee 
of  protect  ion,  winter  u  prolonged  far  intoBprin;;. 

This    cold   nortb-east    wind    and   tlie  dust    it   raised 

funucd  tui  to  I)(ilo);i)n,  where  I  was  gUid  to  take  refuge, 
[ere  I  heard  tliat  the  prdvionii  winter  ther«  had  b-ien 
Bcveral  feet  of  snow  in  the  streets,  which  remained  for 
wevka,  and  that  the  ieo  on  a  c^inal  with  a  rapid  stream, 
whieh  ninii  thnuii^h  the  town,  wak  more  than  u  foot  tbiek. 
Kor  is  this  surprising  when  we  look  at  the  map.  and  see 
that  Bolof^ia  ia  in  thu  plains  uf  Lombardy,  ntthe  foot  of 
the  MHtcm  slope  of  th«  Apennines,  with  nothing  whnttiver 
to  protect  it  from  the  north-eaKt  biu^ta  tbat  bluw  from  the 
cnow-ix) rered  mountains  of  Styria.  So  Bolo;rn-i  is  in- 
tensely bot  in  Slimmer,  from  a  latitude  similar  lo  tbiitof 
Mvnt'ine  with  it*  Orange  aiiil  Ix-mnn  treeii,  am)  i*  intenM^ly 
«old  in  winter  from  expiisure.  Although  7"  further  suutn 
than  Knghmd,  it  appeared  to  mc  to  have  abc^ut  the  pame 
vci^tation  ;  wc  mii»t,  however,  except  the  Vine  and  Maize, 
which  the  extreme  beat  of  the  Routlii.^i  Kummcr  ri]H'iia. 
Tlie  Vine  and  the  Maize  do  nut  get  with  us  the  fuur 
months'  min-hrat  Uiey  rctiuire  to  ripen  their  fruit ;  our  Sup- 
tember  in  too  culd, 

Bolow  Bido^na  {April  19),  aa  griin^  south  wo  receded 
fnim  tbi*  high  moimtiiiDs  which  limit  Italy  to  the  north, 
the  oiild  norlh-oant  wind  seemeil  to  lie  b)wing  ilo  power,  and 
ve;;eIution  was  roure  advunecrd.  Tlie  Poplura  were  in  leaf, 
the  Mulberry  and  Acacia  trees  showed  small  leaves,  as  did 
the  Hlnin ;  the  Vine  shoots  worn  two  inoh««  long,  ccr«»l8 
three  iiit^lies  a1>ove  the  ground,  and  iiealtliier  looking;  ehno 
|JMme«l  ]>riooipiilly  cultivat>;d  to  support  the  Viiie«.     They 


236 


EASTERlf   ITALY. 


are  alluu-ed  to  grow  tome  nix  or  Hght  feet,  anJ  th«a  madsl 
to  divide  into  two,  tliree,  tour,  or  five  braocbee  or  furks,  oaf 
wtiicli  ns  many  shoote  of  m  Vino  aro  trainod.      The  Vinel 
plaiitud  111  the  foot  ic  not  train t-il  round  the  trw — |m>WU/« 
that  it  niiij' not,  latvr,  alniiiglt;  it — but ciimud  straight  up 
onu  ftlde  to  the  point  whtre  the  branchee  divide,  whi-n  oito 
shoot  is  tied  to  ench  branch  of  tliB  tree.     Olten  iihooU 
are  carried  in  festoon*  from  one  tree  to  another,  ■h<1  an  tli« 
treeH  are  planted  in  rawa,  about  forty  feot  apart,  tlie  eSect 
in  BUmmcr,  when  they  *Ta  covered  n-ith  fmit  and  h«v««, 
inufl  be  very   pic-tureiKitie.     Mi-;ht   v,e  iii>t  mnke  tun  of 
Vine*   trained  on  tren*  merely  fur  thtir  («liiig«?     Their 
power  ol  nil  but  indefinite  elon^lion,  would  thiia  havo  fair 

Iilay,  and  un  Oulc  or  Kim  covered  in  numnier  with  Vin« 
eaven  up  to  the  aummit   wuuld    look    very  well.       Then, 
were  neither  Kg,  Olive,  Oran;^  nor  Lemon  trees.      W« 

fiflfKi-d  throuj;))  a  tial,  well •irri tinted,  cnrefnlly   cultivated^ 
>ut  numt   nnpiclnrt-K()ue  <rountry,   buuiidtsj  eu  the  weHtem 
lioi'ixon  by  low  hilla,  the  dyi»<^Mb>|iea  of  the  Apuiiitinea. 

lliili>i:na  in  about  forty  luiles  from  the  Adriatic,  and  tlw 
rnilrond  litrikee  the  6ca  eome  sixty  miles  to  the  south.     Hi 
then   KkirU  the  tihore  uulil  Aneona  ia  readied.     Aivcona, 
altliotij^h  a  town   of  considerable  cominereial  importauoef 
beid:!  the  emporium  of  Italian  tnido  in  the  Adriatic,  Is  onfei 
of  ihe  tniek  of  toiiiiatx,  and  cvt-n  of  trnvelleni  fur  the  en*tt| 
'Hie   lutier   all   but   iuvariubly    pursue    their  journey   by! 
ni;;ht   h-jin  to  Itnndisi.     It  remiiinn  therefore  in  the  dead-1 
nlive  Mute  of  inont  purely  Itjilijin  towni".     Ilie  etrcv'ta  art 
narrow,  the  ahogia  |Joor,  tlio  hotel  aecominodudon  very  bud, 
fillli-rate,  althuUKh   there  are  fine  ducks  anti  warehouaefl ; 
so  I  wati  glud  to  be  olT  early  the  next  day. 

The  nil  front  Ancouu  tu  Brintlini  akirla  the  ahore  all  thi 
way,  exeejit  when  croasinff  the  base  of  a  iirom'tntory  after^ 
reaejiin;;  the  town  of  \^to.  Proximity  lo  the  6ea  docs 
not,  lioivover,  eoem  to  promote  a  milder  cJimato,  lu  on  tbe 
weKliTii  cout.  Prolaibly  the  Adriatic  ia  colder  than  tJM 
^htitilenanean,  from  the  coldness  of  the  norlherii  rivers 
t)>al  run  into  it.  Moreover  from  it«  niirrowness  the  cold 
nurtb-eatit  wind^  have  not  time  lo  get  warmed  by  contact 
in  crowing,  ao  the  shores  are  bleak  and  deaolnle,  much  more 


ANOOXA  TO  BBIKDEBL 


237 


to  tlinn  tlie  country  iminfidiatcly  Iwlow  DoUigiia.  No 
doiilil  away  from  the  sea,  in  fliclt«i'i:d  vnll^ys,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Aponniiiiw,  aro  Dooka  in  wliicli  v<'g(.'triti«n  in  more 
»outlit-rlyi  liut  all  alon^  the  fhore,  iu  the  va^t  ]ituii)a  we 
traversed,  houtidiid  on  the  fsr-oH'  western  hoinz'>n  by  low 
hills,  all  was  itlill  bleak  and  winterly  until  we  rvaclied 
Vwto,  on  a  purnllel  line  n-ith  Hora<v  Previoiialy  wo  had 
Men  a  few  small  FSr  trees,  stiu^y^lin};  for  exifitence  in  back 
yards,  or  in  ^nrJucis  surrtiundetl  by  hi^h  waits,  as  we  hoc 
them  in  our  own  country*,  «ay  at  Kyde,  Iiile  »r  Wight; 
but  they  never  seemed  able  to  boldly  take  to  the  o|ieii 
country.  These  immense  plains  were  principally  covered 
with  cerrrals,  or  lyin>;  fitlluw,  not  a  hcjid  of  cattle  was  to 
l)C  nvn,  and  no  farmhouite«.  The  native  pciputaliou  evi- 
dently stagnated  in  aiiarse  viUu}>«9  and  towns,  with  little 
evidenc«  of  civiliEuliou  around  tlicm  excejtt  huD<Lsom« 
churches.  It  ix  clear  that  iu  Southern  Kiir(i|H',  iu  the 
Middk  Ages,  all  the  savings,  all  the  superlluuiiH  wejlth  of 
the  country,  must  have  been  devoted  to  building  and  embeU 
lishin^  ehurchcf^  On  no  other  i^ound  can  we  explain 
their  number  uud  magnificence  iu  countrios  which  must 
have  lieen  then  even  more  wretchedly  poor  than  they 
atipear  to  he  to-day.  That  may  he  one  reason  why  capital 
did  not  accumulate!  in  thcute  days,  nnd  take  Other  (lireetionc,- 
M  it  does  now.  1  anked  tTavellingoompaniona  how  thctic 
immense  corn  plains  were  manured,  and  the  answer  was 
that  they  were  not  manured  at  all,  but  allowed  to  remain 
Tallow,  ami  to  recover  themselves  by  "  natural  processed." 

Tticsc  companions  wore  principally  local  gentlemen,  few 
and  far  between,  who  ^t  into  the  carriagu  to  travel  from 
one  town  to  another.  I  contrived,  by  diligent  crosM-qucs- 
tioning,  to  get  a  dt-al  of  information  from  them  on  the 
tuhjeut  of  their  luitive  districts.  It  became  ck-iir  t»  me 
that  the  passage  of  the  railway  throuKh  these  littJe- 
frequentcd  regions,  ami  the  amalgnmotion  of  all  Italy  into 
one  kingdom,  "  Ituliu  UniUi,"  hw  given  a  great  impulse  to 
civilization.  It  has  inei-eiased  the  value  of  land  and  of  its 
products;  it  hns  raised  the  wages  of  labour,  aad  ia 
powerfully  stimulating  the  intellect  and  resources  of  all 
cloawa  iu  this  part  cf  Italy.     My  Italian  fellow-travellens 


288 


EASTEllN    ITALY. 


w«ro  fnll  of  Bchemn  for  the  udvimccinenl  nntl  roj^hcntion 
of  tbeir  native  provinco.  A  few  yvan  wilt,  nio«t  luwuredly, 
inoculute  the  entire  puptiblion  with  iOeos  of  progrera,  awl 
woHi  woud«rs  in  tlio  ncifure  of  these  eaBt«rn  reitiona 
hitherto  iK>  u)iittlii^lic,  liithi^rto  lull  behind  in  the  prof^reM 
of  Italian  oiviliiutioD. 

Such  vras  the  opioion  aUo  ofnn  En;;lish  |*«ntlcnian  who, 
like  myMlf,  was  going  down  to  ]lrin(li«i,  and  wiu  my 
priiK!i|wl  wmpanion  duHnf;  a  loni;  day's  juurD<-y.  He  wu 
an  etif^ineer,  residing  at  Sydney,  in  Auntralia,  bad  been 
awiiy  two  munlhs  Ironi  homo  to  do  a  little  iKisincsa  in 
£rigUiid,  had  uccomplivht'd  tt,  and  wait  on  hifi  wny  back. 
The  httle  husiucM  mat  uierely  thiit.  He  wuh  vuunectvd 
with  a  railway  in  Aiu^tralia,  for  which  capital  and  labour 
wera  r«qnir(id.  So  ho  hod  lefl  Sydney  three  montba 
before,  had  ctomd  thn  l^ciltc,  landing  at  San  Franci»co,  th« 
Amorii-an  continent  by  nii),  and  then  the  Atlantic.  lu 
Imndon  he  had  niist-d  the  money  he  required,  engaged 
600  navvieN,  shipped  them  off  in  two  vwkcU,  and  wan  on 
Ilia  way  honiu,  where  he  expected  to  he  within  xix  wtniks. 
He  vhowed  me  pbotogrnphs  of  hie  wife  and  children,  living, 
Buy  Adelaide  Ternwe,  Sydney,  and  tidkcd  of  this  joumev — 
in  which,  like  Ariel,  ho  hikd  put  a  girdle  rotind  the  enrtfi^ 
oa  calmly  as  if  it  had  been  a  mere  excursion  frum  London 
to  Dublin.  I  could  t>ol  help  thinking  that  a  dozen  of  mwi 
like  him  in  eleepy  Ancona  would  foon  rcvolutioniza  th^^J 
place,  an<l  make  a  very  dilfen^nt  city  of  it.  ^H 

Below  Vasto,  on  creeping  the  base  of  the  promontory,  we 
cane  upon  mme  modern tv-tiixcd  Olive  treco.  Uerv  nnd  there 
W(*  pnsviM  through  putclit?  of  uiicullivated  ground,  Kandy, 
silick-ous,  which  was  covi-red  with  the  same  vc^tation  as 
Uu:  maqui*  or  brushwood  in  Corsica — Cistus  jimt  beginning 
to  llower.  Juniper,  Lenti««uK,  Ferula,  Asphodel,  Ilex,  Corlc^ 
Oak,  but  no  Mediterranean  Heath. 

At  Biiri,  whieli  in  parallel  with  Naples,  a  branch  Unegoet 
to  Tarunto.  I  hud  long  wished  to  viiiit  this  dLy,  it  looks 
90  very  tempting  on  the  map;  sixty  niilee  (one  di'grec) 
nouth  of  Kaples,  turned  to  the  Eoutli-wi'ct,  und  sheltered 
from  the  north>e«at  by  a  Miinicirciilar  mountain  range, 
quite  exjiocted   to  SihI  an  unknown  southern  KIdonido, 


TABiLKTO— BRiyDISt 


239 


t  was  (li«appoihle<].  The  moiintnin  mn:^  only  riseB 
lOOO  fH;t— tiol  enough  to  give  complete  juiitrplirm  from 
th«  north-east  winds,  «veD  in  this  southern  latiludu,  anil 
the  lull  exposure  to  tlie  »oiilh-w«<tvrl}'  winds  if  cWarly  a 
dieailviintag«.  Still,  some  striking  unci  interevtiD^r  Tncts 
rm  tlcveloped  in  this  Blifiht  ascent  and  eliort  journey. 

On  leaving  Bari,  nt  tlie  hiim  of  the  low  r»nL'«,  ue  crossed 
(frovc  of  very  r<w[iC<;lal)li'  ()liv«  tr«esc,  hot  iit  IJIKI  r.;et  they 
lelt  iiK,  to  be  replaced  by  a  forest  ot  stunted  deeiiluoitx  oiiIck. 
In  their  turn  they  dieitpppiircd  at  ahont  TiMI  I'eet,  und  rri>Ri 
this  to  the  Biininiil,  which  I  found  lOllO  feet.  The  north- 
east wind  had  it  clearly  nil  its  own  way  on  thin  the  north 
ttitie  of  the  range.  At  this  low  altitude  there  waa  Knirc^ely 
n  tree  to  bo  seen,  but  immense  trAot*  of  fresh  green  scanty 
puturii(^>,  juKt  US  on  a  WeUh  mountain.  On  dexcondiog 
the  Roulheni  side  there  were  no  Uuks,  the  Olivea  beginninf* 
to  ajipt-ar  at  700  feet.  At  firrt  poor  and  small,  they 
gradnally  became  lari^T,  and  ut  ttiv  southern  base  we 
saw  line  old  troex,  although  not  lo  lurge  u*  Umno  of  the 
(iriioiM^-  Kiviera.  Taruuto  ia  an  old  waU-eaclused  Itjdian 
oity,  eTntn|>ed  and  confined,  aa  all  such  towns  are  in  Italy, 
situated  at  the  hufc  of  a  penin*ulii.  In  a  market  garden, 
Etirroun<le<l  by  high  u-kIIk,  1  found  large  Fig  tnie*,  I>omo- 
granatin.  Apricots,  no  Oranges  nor  Lemons.  There  were 
plenty  in  the  market,  hut,  what  with  the  north-east  wind 
at  the  liaek,  and  the  hliutt  of  euuth-wentcrly  gide*  in  front, 
thoy  oouhi  not  grow  on  the  coa^t,  I  was  told,  altltungh  they 
grew  freely  in  the  interior.  Tnranto  it«clf  ia  a  wretched 
but  pie1tirc«c|uc  Italian  town  of  COUO  inhabitant*),  with  no 
rcgnlar  >nu  or  hotel — merely  a  cal'^  with  some  aleeping- 
rooms  above  it. 

1  rclurn<s)  to  Bari,  and  purawed  my  journey  to  Brindisi. 
Here  1  found  the  eaine  conditions  tliat  had  marked  tho 
entire  journey  from  Ituli^^a  downwards— -a  sotitheni  lati- 
tude and  powerlul  sun  in  vain  contending  with  expufure  to 
northH'a>t  wiudK.  Brindiai  is  on  a  promontory  turned  to 
the  north,  and  gets  its  aun  laterally,  as  it  were.  Wben:ver 
the  north-eaj>t  wind  reaches,  the  land  is  litondly  naked, 
ndiicc«l  til  vines  and  cereals;  where  there  ia  exposure  to 
tlio  »un,  and  proleotjon  from  the  north  by  wolU  or  other- 


240 


EASTERN   ITALY. 


wtiH>,  it  (TTOWB  a\\  the  Routlicrn  prcducts,  ji»t  liko  Napla 
or  t>ulfrti<(.  Thiis,  tbcrc  are  fimiW  gardeni  in  \iw  totro 
in  wli»c}i  »t^  fine  Onmp-  mid  Li-mon  trees,  coreiwl  uith 
bvaulirul  fniil  of  exci-llciit  quality ;  but  they  ate  id 
C4>urU,  or  iurrouiided  by  •Katta  tn-eiity  feet  bigb.  Vou  do 
Bol  tvi'ii  uw  th«  lojM  of  the  Ireiw  iti  pa^aing  alow^  tli« 
vtjvvU  at  Ihc  bnM>  of  th«  giirden  walld.  On  the  othi-r  sid«* 
of  lUo  harbotir,  in  a  valley  or  fold  of  bind  wttli  a  tiuutb- 
wtMitt'rii  fxiici*iirr,  mid  prolet-tcd  from  the  north  by  n  belt 
of  Fit  trrvn,  I  MW  (April  iT})  in  floiv«r  many  of  the  plant* 
1  bod  led  ill  Itoner  in  loy  Itivicra  pardcn  cjfrht  day« 
Ix'furo.  Swcvt  I'voB,  Kotics — Baiikmn,  Bi-ngnl,  miiliillon, 
TcR,  hybrid  ;  amoDg  otbvrn,  Chromatclla,  (jluire  <\v  Dijon, 
Iiiiniar<|iii>,  Malmaition,  limpeivui'  de  Maroc;  Jaemiuum 
rovolulum,  Liniim  nibrnin,  Verbciin,  Zinnia,  Pt-t«inia, 
Ijunlaita,  Cincrariii,  IMiirfruiiiiim,  double  (iei'aniiim,  Straw- 
bnrrifs  nearly  ripi>.  Most  of  these  plants,  however,  tlie 
lIoKCB  escfpted,  were  not  luxuriant  and  fresb,  as  with  me  at 
Meiitone.  Tbcy  memed  stinted,  f^-ncridly  unhappy,  as  if 
they  Imd  niffured  from  cold  in  tbe  winter.  In  tin*  garden 
were  largo  Alotw  and  Oiiuntias,  unknown  all  alon;;  the  eooat. 
In  the  very  centre,  ami  in  the  most  sheltered  site  in  tli« 
^rdvn,  Ihono  was  a  Lvmuu  tree,  «nmc  ten  foet  high,  cuvcted 
with  fiuit.  From  th«  way  i»  which  Ofanij^ett  and  LfinoDS 
thrive  in  Italy  and  in  Spain,  in  the  closest  possible  ^iiiarten 
— in  courtyiiriU  in  the  centre  of  towiin,  MirrotiinK-d  with 
high  wall*,  in  IiuHowb  and  valleys  without  down  dttiu):bl«— 
I  ibiuk  it  oleor  th«y  would  thrive  und  I'ruit  with  ub  abun- 
duiilly  under  glawi,  and  might,  m  Mr.  Rivera  anys,  be 
cultivated  wilh  proHt,  as  Grapes  and  Feachea  are;  pi-rhuua, 
even,  we  might  improve  on  qiialiiy.  An  old  quarry,  witli 
a  )H>utbern  expo«iirc,  would  be  tlie  very  plu'.'c  for  an  Oiange 
oirbard.  \Vhut  tliey  appvur  not  to  be  able  to  bear  in  froul 
or  wind;  otherwise  ihey  ai-e  easily  pleased.  Some  of  the 
finest  Orauge  trees  I  have  ever  sieii  were  in  the  cloeo  COUtt* 

till-  Sevillu  Cathedral,  in  8pain. 
found,  once  more,  that  complete  protection  froni 
via,  Buch  as  is  obtained  on  the  (ienoese  Kiviera, 
>  for  many  de^^recs  of  latitude ;  wlicicas  (-x|KM'Uru 

iDouiitain  windu,  «ucb  aa  impinge  on   the  euttrv 


I 
I 


TARANTO — BA8TERN  TRAVEIXEBS. 


241 


firn  onft"t  nf  Italy,  titkes  away  the  f^nod  efTi-ct  oF  many 
di.f{re««  gf  btittnU*.  The  v*K^tatioii  of  the  Ocnoi-w  Hiviora 
id  th»t  of  Ihe  <.he1t:«ri>(l  rejfifiua  of  Sicily,  6'  fuftlier  Bnutli  i 
wherea§  titc  ve';«t.ition  o(  Dolo^iia  and  Aiicona  is  tliat  of 
the  Miitnil  r«^OM  of  Frmicf,  6°  more  iiortli.  Tlit:  fui-t 
illuMtruted  ia  tli«  adrautatre  of  pratcclioii  frnm  tlie  north  in 
all  r^<^nBi  Ai^d  °f  f")'  expoBore  to  tbo  sonth.  Every  etvp 
of  my  Meditiirmneiin  cxplonition*  and  jountcj'ingit  hiis 
confirmed  th«  truth  i>r  thin  ittuteroent. 

The  excuTHtoii  to  Tarunto  mudo  mo  too  late  for  thu 
■tvumur  on  which  I  itilcmU-d  lo  oinliark  for  lh«  Kort,  m  I 
bad  to  wait  acvcral  dayH  fur  the  next.  Tliix  interval  I 
mmt  very  comforlably  at  the  "  Untnd  IIot«l,"  exploring 
.  Urn  prcifiiit  town,  ruminating  on  the  past,  and  epccnliitiu;; 
on  ttie  future.  The  K^reiiter  pari,  of  the  time  I  wu»  quite 
■lone — tlie  only  (jueat  in  this  hotel,  built  by  the  Fenineular 
Compuny  for  tla-ir  piiF>>engi.TR  to  nnd  from  Ak-xundriii.  It 
ia  a  moit  comfDrlAbic,  hixuriouK  i^irtiviini>iii),  iind  pre»ent(* 
the  corioiia  ftatare  of  fillini;  and  emplyiii^  by  u  kind  of 
tido  on  tho  advent  of  the  Alexandria  sU-nmerx.  On  the 
arrival  or  departure  of  one  of  thwc  mngnifit-cnl  vrwcU  the 
h<it4.-l  auakett  as  from  a  deep  clumber.  All  b  bif^tie 
aitd  orderly  afrttation,  moat  of  the  liO  rooma  are  occnpicd, 
and  movement  prevaiU  in  the  ertjibli-ihmi-nt  for  twenty-four 
or  fiiTty-eight  hours,  by  which  lime  all  have  dejiurted,  and 
silenc«  and  rspose  are  oiuw  more  the  order  of  ihe  day. 

One  ■teantr  arrived  fVom  Aloxandria,  with  the  Indian 
mail  and  paaMit^rs,  and  one  ilep;irt«il,  doritiK  my  Kojourn. 
Both  were  moat  dramatic  event*  to  the  looker  ou,  and  each 
explained  aitd  complvte<l  the  other. 

The  depaiiure  represented  youth — the  commencement  of 
life,  am)  of  an  Oriental  career  ;  the  arrivid  was  the  rcvoru 
of  the  pielure.  Tho  arrivid  from  the  Kaat  ffavc,  iw  it  w-n-, 
a  tal'ieJU  of  the  retnrn  of  (he  nm«  joyous,  boisleruus, 
youtldiil  j»iBsen<^ra,  ten,  twenty,  thirty  yeare  hence. 
They  retnnit-d  mm  Nober,  middlc-a^ed  men,  with  pale 
wives,  will)  thin  sinkly-louLin;;  cliiidren,  with  Oriental- 
viMiuud  wrvants,  ayahs,  and  bearers ;  or  na  oged  men  at 
the  end  of  their  euotern  eai-eer,  aharp-eycd  nnd  life-woni, 
men  who  had  clearly  been  ucciutomcd  to  commaod  and  to 


^ 


242 


EASTPJIK   ITALY. 


ho  iilicycd,  nnil   nho  were  returning  to  «nd  their  Jayi 
tlit!ir  MitivL'  (■■Miiiiry. 

'I'lie  liiftt — the  (i«i)iirtiiiir  iiasteii^era — were  roostly  youasf, 
Ftroriif,  healthy,  (vell'ilresfed,  in  boisterous  spirit*.     0«iitl< 
tiit-ii  und  ladies,  eecmpd  like  n  troop  of  youii;  pco[ilo  aV 
lU'f^ent'K  Pnrlc  nowrr-iihow  on  u  line  MUinmer  dxy;  ev< 
their  lugKrage  was  quite  new  and  handsome.     Tbe  arriving 
piwscnjjers — men,    women,    and    children— hnd   evidently 

fiasiaed  through  the  lr)'int;  "rdeulii  ol'  lift;.  They  hnd  do 
on^r  rosea  on  their  cheeks,  and  ninny  loobeii  til  and 
anxions.  Their  Barn.onts  were  trnv«l-worn  and  utinnod, 
tlieir  luggage  wim  old  and  batlored.  Tliuy  liud  evidently 
been  battliitg  with  life,  sti'U|{KliiiK  with  work,  etinutle,  a 
oiirps  for  years,  nnd  many  had  clearly  sulfered  in  the  slrugg! 

Itrindisi,  in  the  duys  of  the  Komsu  cmjienir*,  wiu  a  great 
and  important  city,  the  termination  of  the  A)>pian  way 
from  Rome.  It  was  the  military  nnd  coinmereinl  port  of 
emliarltation  for  the  East,  fur  Ora-ce,  t^^ypt,  t':ik'slinL>,  and 
Ai>in  Minor.  On  the  tulwidi-ncv  ol'  the  Koniun  empire,  it 
fell  into  decay,  became  and  remained  an  insi^nilican 
provincial  town,  without  commcrceor  even  local  importau< 
And  that  until  ijuitu  recently. 

i)uring  the  Franco-Oermnn  war  tlie  Indian  mail  wi 
diverted  from  Marseilles  lo  Brindisi,  a  chane^  rendered 
fcnKihlo  by  the  completion  of  the  luilian  railway  down  the 
Adriatic  coaitt.  With  tbe  stream  of  paeaen^em  finm  Eiu-o[ie 
to  tbe  East,  a  new  life  lias  been  infused  into  the  dormant 
city.  The  government  ha*  dredged  the  ma^niti<'<'nt  old 
port,  which  had  been  allowed  to  till  up.  and  haa  h'ltit 
great  jetty  or  pier,  cmnoclint;  an  island  outside  with  t. 
main  land,  tbu>  f»rinin<;  un  ostcniiive  onior  port.  Doi 
And  wareboaseii  are  also  beiui;  built,  partly  by  private  ooi 
paniea,  and  land  has  (|andrupled  in  value.  On  every  si 
Are  cvideoct^d  of  improvement,  of  activity. 

'riiia  revival  of  energy,  however,  ia,  I  wax  told,  taking 
place  from  without,  not  from  within.  It  is  Italians  from 
the  noiih,  from  Genoa  and  Milan,  and  foreigners,  who  ar« 
the  loading  promotei-s  of  all  this  commercial  and  social 
pri>gn<s8.  A  little  incident  in  tlic  social  state  of  Urindisi 
gives  the  key  to  tbe  tiumnolence  of  itu  native  inhahi> 
t«iil«.     J  wanted  some  books  to  read,  and  in  this  town  of 


scARcmr  OF  books — national  revival.  243 


16,000  inhabitants  tlierc  were  none  to  be  either  borrowed 
or  bou;>lit;  thvru  wns  neither  cirvuliitin;;  lilirury  nor 
bookwllur.  Alter  aiaay  inquiries,  I  wili  <l)rcDted  to  it  kind 
of  baznar;  the  proprietor  opened  a  cupboard,  and  abon-ed 
in«  eomo  fiflf  volumes  of  nchoolbooUt!  and  missDU,  or 
di  arch -Iter  vtev*,  with  a  few  rcligiouii  work*.  IL  uux  all  he 
had,  nor  waa  there  a  newsriaper  on  Mile  in  the  town.  It  is 
difficult  for  us  to  oonceiva  such  a  <tat«  of  intellectual 
Bomuiiluiicu  in  the  nineteenth  eentiiry. 

Not  finding  any  books  in  the  town,  1  inquired  if  there 
WM  anjr  pubhc  library,  and  was  told  that  thcro  tvas  one  at 
tlie  epiacopal  [Mbiee,  »o  I  Ktnricd  to  fiixi  it.  At  the  palncu 
1  inquired  for  the  librarian,  and  after  being;  handed  about 
from  one  servant  to  another  was  shown  into  the  presence  of 
a  dignified  old  gcntlemim,  who  proved  to  be  the  archbishop 
himself  I  I  made  an  apology  and  explained  my  mission, 
on  which  he  made  mc  «it  down,  and  conversed  a  lon^ 
whilt  uitli  me,  lukiiif;  all  kinds  of  qiiesliitns  about  my 
Jonrner'and  itit  object,  Kugland  and  our  fvatem  of  popular 
education.  He  then  deputed  one  of  his  conplains  Co  show 
me  the  library.  With  Uiis  ruverond  gentleman,  a  most 
oourleouH  and  learned  man,  I  tipent  a  \atig  moniing  ex- 
aminiu);  early  and  curious  editions  of  the  classics  and  of 
theolo)^ical  works,  of  which  the  library  lit  mainly  composed. 
Tlie  arch  bishop  and  hi:*  cliapluitis  were  men  of  refinement 
and  cultivation,  ^^'hcn  the  heads  of  the  educational  de- 
partment in  a  conntry  an-  thus  enlightened,  and  the  rest  of 
the  commnnity  luv  left  in  thorouf^h  intellectual  iltirkness, 
the  dilTerenoe  between  the  two  mu«l  be  intentional,  the 
result  of  a  systein. 

I  luivc  recently  (May,  1S7-1)  traversed  Italy  from  Xaplea 
to  Turin,  and  have  found  everywhere  Ibc  mo«t  und'.-iitabte 
evidence  of  a  national  revival.  Since  the  entire  country 
luu  been  nnit«d  under  a  single  national  government,  A 
complete  intellectual  regeneration  has  uppurently  com- 
menced, and  is  rapidly  progressing.  Italy  is  now  totally 
diflerent  from  the  country  that  I  Knew  twcnty-Rve  ^vcura 
ago.  Public  and  private  improvements  are  going  on  every- 
where. In  Catania,  Messina,  Naples,  Rome,  Florence,  anil 
in  nearly  evety  ottier  town  there  is  rvtdcnoc  of  pr'^grcaa  UD 
every  side.     New  uawalls  and  jeltiett,  docks  and  wan- 


S44 


RA.BTERN  ITALY. 


linu^cs  ill  mnrittmc  townii,  draining  and  rebuilding  in  the 
ooDtinenUl  towns,  are  in  pro;rrcc«  ever>'wb«rc.  The  Tail- 
ways,  thfl  Bi™mi.-T«,  nml  tile  eondCriptioD,  bv  mixing 
pi-dvincnt  Dud  riires,  ure  amal^mntin^  the  w1i»l«  nation. 
Picturi-snue  costumeB  are  disappenring.  and  at  IU>me  and 
Naples  Uicy  nro  now  scarcely  fwn.  But  tlu-n  with  thvni 
are  uli^o  diMipprnrin^  iS\e  hegpan,  the.  luzznrone,  fvnt 
into  almphotiees;  in  a  word,  the  pictureBqueoeM  of  dirt  and 
ol  rnRs  is  ili-jiarl  inji  from  Italy, 

In  the  Goiinlry  lift!  is  Irn'oming  more  a^rure,  the  pi^aaaota 
hilhert«  huddled  in  llieir  towns  and  viltaK«B,  lor  the  nice 
ut'  muliial  Riccour  unci  mpport  nf^ninRt  brif;anda  and  evil- 
doeni,  ure  heninninp  to  isBiu'  forth.  Bi-forc  long  there  will 
)>e  isolatod  inrmhouses  and  fini.ill  lianilett>,  ss  with  iis,  as  in 
Pii-dniont  and  Ixinilmrtly.  1  found  the  fertile  wmntry 
from  Nupl<-H  t<i  Koriie,  I'rom  Kcim«  to  Moreiiei;,  eiilliMit«r<l 
like  a  iraiden — not  s  need  to  he  seen,  and  thai  iis  it  wer« 
hjt  invihille  hands,  by  pcavanTs  who  in  these  regions  live 
still  in  villiip;-K  and  smull  towiiK,  and  have  to  Idao  hours 
daily  ill  walking  1o  and  Trom  their  work. 

And  thus  is  U-iii^  lullillod  the  prophecy  in  "  Itoi 
Italy/'  placed  at  the  bewl  of  this  chapter — 

,  .  .  ,  "Twii-eliart  thou  lived  already; 
Twien  sbone  among  the  oatioiia  of  tlio  wnrlil, 
A*  Ih*  ma  •hinn  among  th«  lentcr  lighu 
Of  hoaveu ;  «xd  bd^Lt  aqais."  .... 

Notwithttandini;  the  d«-arth  of  Imnlta  at  Biindin,  I 
inanii;;ed  to  aci  over  mv  five  days'  detention  Vi-ry  Kutia- 
fuctorily.  liVhat  with  ^attinfj*  in  th«  innvr  putt,  lionling 
and  hathiu);  in  the  outer  one,  explorintt  the  loun  and  iia 
BUtiiiuitii'v,  as  iileo  the  (pirdeuF  and  phintaticmH  in  the 
vietnity,  whiil  with  watehiii^  and  moralixin^  over  tho  pas- 
setitcerB  deput'tintt  for  and  arriving;  from  India,  u hut  with 
interviewing;  the  arrhbishop  and  his  vhupUinu,  cornpleling 
arrviim  of  L-orn-ypondence,  and  wi'itinj;  u  i-(hi|iIu  of  oenyE  on 
tnedii-al  and  horticultural  si)bj(i.-te,  time  did  not  hniii;  wry 
hoiivy  on  my  baiKls.  Stilt  when  the  Corfu  steamer  airiv 
from  TriiAitv,  I  was  ijuite  ready  to  depart. 


AI.N) 


zus- 


CHAPTER  IX. 

SPAIN. 

GlSTnAOBNA — UUKCIA — ELCHE — ALICASTE  —  T4L1KC1A  —  COHDOVA  — 
SEriLLR—  H  ALAO  A — GKAN  All  A — U  ASB  lO — V  ALLADOLII)  — BD  EOOS. 

.    .    .    .    "  And  be  there  joined 
Patience  and  temperance  nitn  this  high  reserve, 
Honour  that  knows  the  path  and  will  not  awervo, 
Affections  which,  if  put  to  proof,  are  kind. 
And  pietj  towards  God.     Such  men  of  old 
Were  England's  native  growth,  and  throughout  Spain, 
Thanks  to  high  God,  fokests  op  such  ksuaih. 
Then,  for  that  country,  let  our  hopes  be  bold, 
For  matched  with  these  shall  Policy  prove  vain. 
Her  arts,  ber  strength,  her  iron,  and  her  gold," 

WoKDSWORTU,  Sontust  xxviiL 

CARTRAOENA. 

1  HAW  been  visiting  Algeria  with  some  friends,  and  we  had 
brought  our  Alj^L-rian  explorations  to  a  close  at  Oran.  We 
left  Oran  <ni  the  SOtli  of  April,  1S159,  at  0  p.m.,  and  reached 
Curthj.>^ena  the  followiiij^  morning,  in  fifteen  hoiirs.  Tiie 
passage  was  rough,  owini^  to  the  strong  west  or  nortli-weat 
wind  from  the  Atlantic,  which  was  liurrying  south  to  fill 
the  vacuum  caused  by  hi-at  over  the  Desert  of  Sahara, 
sucked  in  by  tliat  j^reat  natural  furnace.  This  wijid  was 
carrying  with  it  dark  ruin-loaded  clouds  to  water  and  lerti- 
lize  Algeria.  The  captain  told  us  that  the  wind  svuuJd 
lull,  and  the  sea  become  calm,  when  we  got  within  fifty 
miles  of  the  coust  of  Spain,  owing  to  the  shelter  of  Cape  de 
Gala.  Wlielher  we  really  did  get  under  tlie  shelter  of  tliis 
cape,  or  whether  it  was,  as  I  suspect,  that  the  African 
Desert  pulled  tlie  wind  down  south,  out  of  our  wny,  I 
cannot  say,  but  the  captain's  words  proved  true.  We  had 
some  hours  of  calm  aad  comfort  before  we  reached  the  coast, 


243  SPAIN. 

ami  were  nble  to  Bcnn  its  rocky  shores  from  ikTar.   Tliere  vettr* 
nil  bat  u  culm  wlioii  we  entered  the  magniGoeut  port  of 
Ciirthat^ena,  tlie  Plymootli  of  Spain. 

On  Inok'intr  ri>un(l  at  t)ic  nigh  limcetono  roclts  nnd^ 
inoiiiitiiiiis  whicb  form  th«  cnvft  liiii,',  «nd  »iiiTOUtid  the 
port,  I  niblteJ  my  eyi»  nilh  astouUhnieut.  Nut  a  shrub, 
not  »  blade  of  gnus,  not  a  vestigi;  of  vegetable  life  uf  on/ 
kind  or  denniptioii  was  tberu  to  be  seen  on  tlie  eVttEt,  or 
on  the  shore  inbiid.  St-orchetl,  browned  by  the  sun,  the 
rooky  coast  mi^hl  have  »>me  that  very  day  out  of  Pluto'a 
laboratory.  1  wns  subsequently  tuM  by  the  French  Consnl 
that  it  t'oldoin  mined  at  Ciir'bagena,  and  that  they  had 
then  bei-n  vi^lit  montln*  witlmut  luiy  min  at  all,  Ihat  a, 
diirin-f  one  of  the  ruinietit  winters  on  record  tn  Europe 
•^'tii-ndly,  as  well  as  in  the  north  of  Africa.  I  took  a  wulk 
on  the  rampHrt^,  and  in  the  vk-inity  of  the  town,  but  Tound 
no  more  vegi-tnt ion  thnn  on  a  brick  kiln,  with  one  excep- 
tion,  a  smnll  herbiici-oua  jdant,  from  six  to  twelve  inc^Mfl 
in  liei^hi,  with  jirfcn  ilestiy  leaves,  whicb  f^KW  sparsely 
bi-n-  anil  there,  and  of  which  no  one  knew  the  nanii'.  I 
Kuw  nolhini'  in  this  sunburnt,  dirty,  niinenible  town  to 
deacrve  atti^nlion,  e»<;ej)ling  the  port,  llw  fortillcations,  and 
a  g^rand  old  lower  built  by  the  Cartba;;iniait9  more  tlinn 
two  tlionsand  years  a^o.  The  Spanish  Goverriment, 
Vandal  like,  i;  at  present  levi'llin^  to  the  ground  this 
curioun  remiiHiit  of  antiijiiity,  to  make  way  for  some  im- 
provements. Ovvin^  to  tbe  existence  of  a  deep  and  aaf« 
port,  onv  of  tbe  very  lwt>t  in  the  Mcditorrnnraii,  Cartha- 
geni)  bim  altvays  been  an  important  military  station,  and 
wua  ibe  prinri]>iil  military  and  eummerciul  i>ort  in  tbe 
Hoiirisbinij^  daja  of  Spanitih  colunieutiun.  Tne  priuei{Ml 
riches  of  litis  distriet,  now-a-days,  are  valuable  leod  and 
sivcr  mine*,  worked  by  Iho  Citilhiif^^nians  in  former  ttmcf). 
H.iving  Hwn  'jiiiU'  enough  of  Ciirtb  ij^i-na  in  (be  oixirM;  of_ 
tbe  day,  wn  started  that  evening  for  Miirein,  described  ii 
bi''>ks  of  travel  as  an  Kden  of  rtrlitity  and  beauty. 

'I'hv  railioad  at  once  enteretl  upon  n  pkin  cradually 
riain^  to  tbe  north,  the  a»jH>et  of  wbidi  was  peculiar.  It 
waa  e4rel'uUy  ploughed  and  furrowed,  but  not  the  vesttfue 
of  a  crop  was  tliera  to  be  seen — nothing  but  ibe  naluid 


la 


CABTUAOENA  8U:ifiUItXT  AND  ARID. 


247 


^^rth.     On  inquiry,  I  lennit  that  the  land  bad  Wu  fully 

!)rv)Miv<I  mid  that  Bt-cd  l>ii^  been  sown,  but  that  m  no  rtiiii 
lad  fullen  yiiice  Iiul  SepteiiiU-r,  tlic  KOi-d  »uwii  had  uuver 
come  u|).  Such  a  swni;  must  be  witnessed  to  be  belii;ved— 
thirty  miles  of  ploughed  bind  without  u  hladu  ofgriini  on  it, 
fur  wutit  of  rooiittiire.  Thi«  I  whs  told  wiiii  thu  ousu  two 
years  out  of  tlitee;  ull  ho|ie  of  hiirveat  I'ur  iliia  year  was 
lodt.  Kvon  if  raio  came  it  woald  uow  be  too  late,  tho  sua 
had  Wonto  too  powerful,  and  would  burn  up  tlie  t;rain 
wer«  it  Ut  i^rmiiMtc.  A*  it  wji*  nearly  ripi,'  iii  other  rei;ioii8, 
tiiiB  can  be  «aitily  undenitoad.  I'liere  uih  nut,  however,  un 
euliri;  abwocc  of  vojfetuble  lite,  ua  ut  und  near  C'arthu<;i'na, 
for  tlie  i>tiiia  was  Ppareuly  dotted  with  Fi-^,  Olive,  Curunba, 
Almoad,  Mulberry,  and  Pouu-^iuiiutc  trui-x,  tho  latter  in 
flower.  They  wave  uU  sm^il),  and  miberuiile  in  their  leaf 
d«rvlopm«ut,  owing  to  the  drouj^ht  and  to  tho  poverty  of 
tb«  fuil^-u  mvn  culcarvotu  rubble,  vnriud  by  »]>ptirently 
Miff  oUya, 

111  thi»  arid  dc«ert,  the  like  of  whieh  I  never  witnuased 
in  Ai^o^ria,  1  repi-atedly  >aw  lulbt  of  the  Chamserops  humilis, 
wliii-b  thu-  estiiblislietl  iu  ri^ht  of  domicile  in  eouth-oastern 
Knrope.  I  hUo  mt-t  wilb  it  btcr,  between  Mnrda  luid 
Altuunt«,  and  iu  dvnse  maMeit  in  tho  Andulusiiun  valleys. 
Xear  lite  rare  houses  or  farmii  were  i^lumps  of  Opuntia  or 
Burbary  I'ig  in  Huwer.  The  speeiL-s  ;;ro\vn  ts  the  ODO 
without  Mpim-s,  or  with  Roft  8pine«,  whieli  the  cattle  can  eitt. 
Uttierwise,  there  was  no  Korub  nor  "  inuijiiii^,"  no  brufib- 
wood,  no  K'^-'^xes,  nothiofp  for  mile  after  mile  but  plains 
eai-i.-liilly  pion;jhed  and  sown  by  the  lubuur  of  man ;  ull  to 
no  iivail.  On  eiigb  side  of  the  widu  pbiin  ro«C  limeKtono 
inouutains,  |>re«enlinf{  buwiltic  Hawk  livre  and  there,  and 
dftninuhin^;  in  heit;ht  aa  the  niilroad  (gradually  ascended. 
At  ulwut  (SOU  feet  above  the  sea,  (tome  thirty  mile*  from 
the  chore,  whvrv  tlie  desolation  had  Weonie,  if  pua^ible, 
fiercer — for  even  the  Curouba  and  Olive  Ireea  had  ({iven  io 
— the  line  turned  to  tJie  west,  and  passed  thruiii^h  a  kind  of 
gor^e,  to  descend  into  the  plain  of  Murcia. 

The  plain  of  Murvia  in  nlluviul,  iu  the  form  of  ft  delta, 
between  tivo  ranges  of  limedtotke  inountiiins,  some  20UO  or 
3000  feet  high,  aad  is  raudcred  fertile  by  the  presence  of  a 


248 


SPAIN. 


small  river,  and  hy  a  evstcm  of  itrlii^tion  which  dntm 
tliv  time  ol'tho  Moors,  siiU  trniiFrDrmtf  a  barren  wililem 
into  II  pi^i'fudi  (;iinlL-ii.  Tlii;  inounluin  fuiw  coiitiniied  to 
present  exnotly  tlie  name  I'eatui'es  of  Wrrcti  draoUtioii  as 
near  CarthaiJiena,  until  a  level  ivas  attained  which  i^nabled 
the  water  to  lie  iisrd,  and  tlii.-n  thv  tranii formation  waa 
magical.  By  the  nicimii  of  niiiutK  of  derivation  taken  at  a 
liij^Tiur  level  in  the  valley,  a  very  considerable  ei^teat  of  th« 
sliiping  ground  even  is  bruu^fht  iiiidf r  the  bcnelioial  iiitlacQce 
ol"  water,  and  at  once  iiniile*  with  fertility.  From  the 
harnmi'ti'r,  1  should  Kay  lluit  the  irri;;ation  hrginK  about 
lOUti  feel aluive  the  sea-levei.  Inatantly,  the  nuked,  barren, 
furrowed  fields  rivc  place  to  Wheat  orops,  whidi  increa. 
ill  Itixurianve  im  w«  dcboi-nd.  As  the  nod  forru^noua  U 
toil  bi-ooineii  deeper,  and  rieher  ia  huniun  prodiivui)  )>y  cei 
turieii  of  previous  cultivation  and  vei^etation,  the  Carou' 
tbe  Olives,  the  Fij;  trees  liecome  larger — more  flonrishinfjj 
the  Vines,  up  to  then,  mere  dry  );uarled  rootd,  iiMiiit;  one 
foot  from  tlie  ground,  hIuiw  k-aves  ;  Mnlherrj-  tri-w  make 
their  appvuranee,  thi^n  I'omi-^ranntv^  in  Hower,  bI*0  Dat« 
Piibna  in  uonsiUerable  numbers,  in  i;roupa  of  two,  three,  or 
more,  principally  near  the  farms. 

When  till-  level  phiin  tvan  reached,  a  roaplu  of  milea 
from  the  town  of  Miir>-i;i,  tUi;  luxuriance  of  vi-j«lati<>ii  was 
extieine.  Curoub;ii>,  OpuiitiuH,  and  Olivua  all  but  disap- 
peared, the  land  had  became  too  valuable  for  them.  Tlie 
amall  Fin  trei's  had  (^hnn>ri-d  into  lar^  forest  tnx-e,  many 
fot  in  diameter;  the  Mulbktrry  waa  planted  tbic-lcly  ahmff 
the  side  of  the  roati  and  antaml  the  tields,  whilst  the  ground 
Vtaa  piiaeipally  occUj>ied  by  dense  luxuriant  erops  of  Wheat, 
thnau  feet  hi^h,  jntt  tnrnin;;  colour,  with  here  and  thenj 
p«toliea  of  Flax,  Bi;an>.,  iVai>,  and  more  Pidmn  from  twenty 
to  w^venty  or  eighty  lect  bit;h.  This  huuriiint  vegetation 
owed  its  existence  entirvly  to  ini^ation,  i«r  her*,  aa  at 
Carthagena,  I  was  told  that  it  bad  not  rained  for  aix  or 
ci^ht  montlia;  but  an  entire  river  had  been  divert^-d  from 
itii  uoumu  and  uiied  up.  Kvery  plot  of  cultivated  |;rouii<i 
waa  Burrounded  by  an  irri;-at)ou  ditch,  every  field  by  a 
rairad  Mrth  hank,  some  ten  inches  hi}>h,  ami  by  this  means 
thvre  wa>  tlie  power  of  Uirowiu;'  water  over  every  foot  of 


ItURCIA — HOLIDAY  OOSTUUES.  249 

tluF  arUficuilly  fcrtili,*  rpfl^ion.  The  riviT  ituclf  minfj  in 
Die  mouiiUuns  of  tlit*  interior  wb^ru  plt-nty  of  luJii  full*, 
the  supply  of  water  is  uever  wnntin-*,  bowevcr  great  atid 
continitoiis  muy  Ihi  Uio  \ocn]  drought,  cvcu  if  it  laets  for 
yvar». 

Ttms,  the  fertile  pliiin  of  Muroiu  Jtt  iodopendeut  of  raiii* 
&1I.  With  a  newr-failiuf^  supply  of  sumhine,  bpati  and 
WBtvf,  il  had  buen,  from  the  time  of  the  Moor»,  who  tint 
ebt«)»liiihcd  the  »ytU:m  of  irrij^ittion,  ii  mc-rc  innrkct  i;urdcn,i 
like  those  at  Battvisi-a,  and  baa  be«n  oultivatvd  in  the 
ume  way,  one  ciMp  rapidly  auoceedin^  anotlier.  As 
a  rmiilt  of  this  prol'iiHU  prodiielion  of  the  ncucEsarios  of 
life  in  a  *oiithern  diiiiato— oil,  wine,  brvitd,  dutcif,  vvge- 
table!*,  fruita — a  large  town  bas  jirown  up  in  the  midat  of 
it,  th(t  totvn  of  Miircia  with  its  45,00(1  inhubitants,  liviQij 
unii  fiittumn;;  on  Kiiliiry'K  boimly.  From  lh«  cathi-dr 
towvr  U  ncen  vWrly  llii;  immcDou  dvltjt,  with  iu  Imhc  oii 
the  J>ea,  vncli»ed  betiveen  two  liiiieftttine  mountain  ruiiges, 
eutin-ly  coveiw)  with  th«  ve^etalion  I  have  describoii,  nod 
di>tt(.tl  with  groups  of  tiill  i'alme,  which  givu  a  very  Oricntul 
apiwnrunoc  to  the  avL'nery. 

MURcr^. 

On  rising  tlie  morninj;  after  our  arrival  at  Murcia,  and 
leaving;  the  huti.-l,  to  look  nliout  ns,  wc  found  out  thut  we 
rwilly  were  in  Spain,  in  the  country  of  the  IJiirher  of 
Sevilio,  of  Count  Atmaviva,  of  Uun  Ba.iiliii;  evurvthin^ 
was  ijpanish.  The  women  hud  nmntdlai  and  fans,  and  the 
men  rvidly  viotv  the  dr^.ml  ftintiutical  costunKM  wu  tUM 
reprpMinU^  on  the  situije  and  in  hook*.  The  Ktreeta  were 
narn>w,  tbejiotmed  low,  the  wimlous  ]>roii-cU-d  with  iron 
ecreeno,  Udgini^  out  Irom  thx  window-sill.  Tliu  l>u;;',;iini 
were  ptirt4ires({<m  and  importunate.  The  churobe*  wvru 
niimei^tuN  and  ini|)oiitnif,  towering  over  the  t^iwn  and 
dwarfinc  all  other  buililin|!;8,  jtlst  as  the  Churth  of  the 
lutpiiiiilion,  for  centuries,  toweled  over  and  dwarfed  irve 
judi^etit  and  social  lil'v  in  S]MiH. 

It  wiw  Sunday,  iind  the  entire  population  was  out  oCj 
door*  in  holiday  costume,  wbieh  gave  ns  a  ;;uod  opportunitji 
of  Btwlyin;;  costume  and  race.     Tbo  lower  ordvm,  and  tin 


L 


250 


SPAIN. 


lowvr  mi(I(l1«  cIamco,  lind  clearly  a  d««1  or  Arab  or  Mooris 
blood  in  tliL'ir  veins.  Th«r  Bomplexions  ivere  Bwarth; 
oliv«  oolouied,  and  their  eyes  and  hair  ({vncraUy  cootl  bUtck. 
TIte  women  <lid  nut  titrikv  »iv  lu  piirtivularly  lovely,  but 
thoy  had  u  lin;,  an  aiiiniiiluni  about  their  sneeob  anil  move- 
ments that  we  seldom  see  in  northern  climea.  Many  of 
the  hif|>l>er  oUas  women  sMmcd  to  belong;  to  a  diircreat 
moo,  for  they  wer«  tairskiiincd,  and  liud  brown,  even  lit;ht 
halt.  I'hiH  diilerenoi)  of  race  cliaracteri alios  was  fitill  more 
marlced  further  north,  at  V';ilencia  nnd  Madrid.  No  doubt 
these  li<;hl-coin|)loxioiR-d  8piiniurd>^  arc  the  liiiuti  deMccn- 
danta  of  thu  norUu-rn  rlle>^s  ihiit  Inn;;  held  S]iain  iu  aubjee* 
tton,  of  the  Goths  and  N'uudala  of  earlv  hi&tory. 

M'hilst  at  Murcia  there  was  a  "  Aull-fiffht,"  so,  us  in 
duty  bound,  wc  w«nt  to  witix-ss  the  purformanco.  It  wm 
the  first  exhihittoii  of  lh«  kind  that  I  bad  seen,  and  will  ba 
the  last  that  1  shall  ever  ivitnees.  I  wj^  not  so  uiuch  struek 
with  the  cruelty  of  the  entire  procwedin;;,  although  tliul  ia 
very  great,  as  with  the  Irwcliery  nnd  barhanty  shown 
the  bnivB  bull.  Tliu  one  that  1  «iiw  fought  like  ii  IVujud 
of  old,  K|ili;iidiilly,  magnilieeDtly,  ref'u»in[;  no  enemy,  no 
eoeounter.  Ue  turned  over  the  I'icadors  like  men  of  straw, 
ripped  tip  Uie  horses,  and  drove  all  before  him  like  chaff. 
Tlu-n,  III  laitt,  out  of  hreath,  tired  with  hia  vain  cfri>rtii  to 
f(et  at  hit>  enemies,  he  went  to  the  gate  by  whieh  he  lia<l 
Mitered.and  bellowed  to  be  let  out.  He  seemed  to  say,'  ~ 
have  liiul  onougl)  of  this  conlumpliblc  fully,  let  m*  oat*^ 
lie  was  allowed  lo  depart  for  ii  few  minut««,  whitat  tli6 
dead  horses  were  drawn  awuy,  and  the  aniphitbMitre  wiia 
put  ID  order.  Tbon  the  portal  was  opened,  and  the  same 
bull  bounded  into  the  arenii  perfectly  furioifs,  W-llowing 
and  tossing  the  sand  at  bis  feet>  He  Rocmed  to  have 
thought  better  of  it,  and  to  be  determined  that  thia  time 
lie  really  would  make  niinocmeut  ot  his  eneunics  ;  he  was 
clearly  miieh  mora  dan|rert>ue.  Within  five  miiiuU-H  lie  oil 
but  pinned  one  of  hia  tornumtors  to  the  wooden  huluBlmde, 
making  the  building  resound  with  the  sliuck,  and  tearing 
otTone  of  his  honm.  The  man  was  clearly  hurt,  for  a)- 
tliou}>h  be  eonlrived  to  jump  over  the  bubietrade,  and  to 
quietly  walk  aivay,  puttiii)^  a  good  fac«  on  it,  be  aoou  dis* 


THE  BULL-PIOHT.  251 

appeared,  and  was  seen  no  more.  By  this  time  my  sym- 
pathies were  thoroughty  enlisted  on  the  bull's  side.  I 
mentally  applauded  him,  saying  with  the  Spanish  audience 
"  Bravo  Toro,"  and  applying  to  the  injured  Toreador  the 
Yorkshire  jury's  verdict,  "Served  him  right."  Then  to 
my  indignation,  ds  if  in  revenge  for  his  uoble  defence,  a 
dozen  large  bulldogs  were  let  loose  ou  the  brave  animal. 
They  instantly  fastened  on  hiin,  one  on  each  ear,  one  on 
the  tail,  two  on  the  neck,  and  one  on  his  muzzle.  The 
poor  brute  had  a  perfect  chaplet  of  these  bloodthirsty  dog! 
hanging  on  him  like  leechts.  He  was  quite  powerless  to 
get  rid  of  them,  and  kept  careering  madly  round  the 
am  uh  it  heat  re,  bellowing  piteouGly  all  the  while.  This  waa 
DO  longer  fair  lighting,  but  a  brutal  persecution  of  a  noble 
beast.  When  he  was  all  but  exhaugted,  he  elood  still, 
quivering  in  the  arena,  and  the  master  of  the  dogs  came 
forward  and  pulled  them  away. 

Freed  from  his  tormenlors,  his  lips  torn  to  shreds,  the 
place  of  his  lust  horn  murkeil  by  a  ^<'ry  ga>^h,  blood  stream- 
ing from  bis  laucrated  cars,  neck,  sides,  and  tail,  he  was 
still  game,  bellowed  deliuuce  lustily,  and  turned  round 
once  more  on  his  enemies,  I  thought  of  Byron's  Hnes^ 
for  even  then,  after  so  brave  a  fight,  there  was  to  be  no 
mercy  for  him,  he  had  not  gained  his  life  by  so  viiHuutly 
defending  it. 

"  Foil'd,  bleeding,  farioiis  to  the  last. 
Full  in  the  centre  standu  the  hull  at  hay, 
'Mill  woiindH.  a,nii  clinging  darts  and  luncea  brast. 
And  foei  Jisablecl  in  the  brutal  fray. 
And  now  the  niataiiores  aronnJ  him  play. 
Miiako  the  red  clouk  and  poise  the  reudy  hrand. 
Once  more  through  all  he  bursta  his  thundering  way. 
Viiiii  rajre  !  the  maiitlu  (juita  the  conynKO  hand, 
Wrajis  his  fierce  eye — "tia  past — he  Binks  upon  the  sand !" 

BvBON.     Childt  Iluroid. 

And  BO  sank  my  fierce,  brave  bull.  I  mourned  over  him^ 
and  left,  although  the  clarion  announced  oth^r  fiithts.  But 
I  was  myself  becoming  blondtliirsty,  and  felt,  that  had  tho 
hull  pinned  one  of  his  tormentors  to  the  earth,  as  he  pinned 
the  horses,  the  sufferer  would  have  haJ  but  scant  commieera- 


352 


SPAIN. 


tioR  from  me  ;  bo  I  ttioiight  it  bo«t  to  depart.  It  M  trul 
■  Itiirbiirous  dcone.  It  noiild  liiive  a  mlflftRiin?  finttiK  if 
the  IniU  could  Kuvi.'  hiM  life  hy  liU  bruvi-rr,  hiit  do,  he 
ifl  always  butdicred,  howpvrr  lirillianlly  he  mny  fislit.  llo 
may  nlways  siiy,  ns  did  the  Komnii  Glodiittur  of  old, 
wben  dcfittii);  Iclorc  the  Hvnian  emperor,  "  Morilurua  te 
■alutat,  impcnitor."  "  A  ninu  ubout  to  die  salut«e  Uiee, 
O  eni|K'ror." 

Whilst  at  Miireia  I  went  to  eco  the  i)uinmi.T  rwidenoe  of 
tUe  tale  Jjiml  Hi)wdvn,  formerly  our  ainbaMador  at  Madrid. 
Some  twelve  ye;ii'8  previously  he  houfiht  a  plot  of  this  rich 
land,  nlioiit  a  mile  from  the  town,  built  a  hou'c,  and  m:ti)e 
a  giirdun.  Tho  latter  is  very  iiitLTMtiii;;  as  uk  vvidtfiice  of 
the  rapidity  of  (rroHtU  in  tiuch  a  climatR,  with  rich  earth 
and  vater  atl  liiitum.  If  what  his  bailifT  lold  mo  be 
Correct,  the  Date  I'alm  planted  under  fuch  coiiditionx  t«  hf 
no  lucan*  a  kIow  fjrowin-f  tree,  as  u<iin!ly  niiiiponed.  Palnu 
only  jiix  yeiioi  old  from  the  seed  «i-ie  live  feel  in  the  stem, 
whiUt  olhi'i'M,  twelve  yi-nnt  old,  wciw  nvelve  or  fifti-en  feet ; 
quite  yoiHit;  trees.  They  are  planted  in  profusion,  l>ut 
nearly  idways  in  beds  or  ditches,  sunk  two  feet  below  the 
level,  so  as  to  admit  of  water  betnff  turned  in,  and  of  llieir 
beini;  thus  liternlly  drenched.  This,  1  wad  told,  was 
repeatedly  done  diirin^c  the  nummer  or  frrowin;;  time.  In 
the  garden  [May  l»t)  tbi-re  was  a  profusion  of  monthly 
Roses,  multilliira,  Uenjjal,  Biiuht'ia,  and  Centifulia,  very  tew 
hjhrids;  also  Hullyhuek,  Dilphtnium,  Poppy,  white  Lily, 
Jasminiini  ivvolutum,  Petunia,  Carnation,  Pink,  Stock, 
wilh  Iti^nonia  jusminoides  and  Paetion  Flowers, «>  <:liin 
all  in  flower. 

In  the  pnbtie  garden  at  Murcla  I  found  the  Mme  flowei 
that  i>i,  with  the  exception  of  the  last  two  nametl,  our  earlf 
eumnier  flowers.  I  tvas  rather  surprised  to  si-o  in  a  lurgo 
conservatory  at  Lord  Houdeii's.  plunla  in  ]ioto  which  I 
should  have  thought  would  have  done  well  out  of  doors— 
Felar|(oniums,  Lnntanas.  Ijalonia  Borbonica,  Ahutilous, 
Ileliotriipes — a  fuet  which  seemed  to  imply  cold  nights  and 
MRie  fr»ct  in  winter.  With  all  its  lusnrinnce  this  valley 
niiut  then  have  a  very  winterly  look,  when  the  Mulberry, 
¥ig,  Pomegranate,  Almond,  and  Vine  atv   all  devoid  of 


EOCK, 

»erg^ 


MURCIA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


253 


L 


IciivcM.  Tlie  Oranfte  trees  an  numemiis  in  tlic  diMn'ct, 
lm(.  they  are  RoinTally  iibiiitecl  id  orcbnitls  aixl  uot  an  orna- 
im'titn)  livi's.  Mori'DTifr,  they  niv  Irentecl  in  a  manner 
wliicli  much  <liiniiiit<tiee  their  Wuuly.  Wlu-n  yomi;;  tho 
otirtii  IB  cut  near  the  (around,  and  the  iiuraemuH  xhooti 
wtiii-h  spring  n|>  ure  pnservi-il,  r)  that  the  trei>  t;row§  up  as 
a  hiiKh  iinil  rviUAins  eo.  It  is  );racvfiil  cnnu^lt  m  nn  vver* 
ert'eii  li\isit,  ten  or  ttftt-en  feet  lii^h,  but  lutn  all  tlte 
oiunity  and  hcauly  of  the  Ornnye  tree  whon  fully  deve- 
loiu'd,  a*  on  the  (iimoeee  Kivtera,  ut  Biidiih  in  Alg«rria,  or 
at  ShlU  ill  S^trdiniii. 

I  ha<i  Icfi  Cnithiijiina  with  n  eliudd^r  at  the  very  idea  of 
twint;  (■utidi'iniied  to  remain  th^ri-,  not  the  winter,  hiil  rvpo 
a  vreck  "r  tuo,  allhoii^h,  I  have  iio  dnuht,  tluil  tiiL-  climat* 
IB  eSii'ittionnUy  mild,  dry,  iind  healthy  in  nintcr.  But 
who  vuuld  rt-main  lor  moutha  in  a  filthy,  diriy,  diiitty, 
Hinlfurut  S|inimh  eeiiport,  a  kind  of  eouthern  \Vii|)[)ii)K? 
Then  there  i«  no  accominodiilion,  and  prolml'ly  nn  food  fit 
to  fut,  Tiie  inn  we  sti'pjicd  iit  was  wretched,  in  a  luirrow 
olo«a  utreet,  without  comforia  or  any  onl^  redet-miii'^  |i<iint. 
Thus  Ciirlhii;;ena  ta  altQ(;uthur  out  of  the  queetion  ae  a 
health  texiii. 

With  .Muivia  I  was  more  aareenWy  impressed.  The 
Ilote),  althoni;)!  very  xvcond  rate,  wua  Itirge  iind  more  cam- 
modiuni',  and  the  fare  was  belter.  1  have  no  duuht  that 
lifo  miKlit  111'  artniidwl  with  tolerablo  cutufurt;  but  Ihca 
this  Ui>te1,  Ihe  piitiiij'ul  one,  is  eitutiti^  in  the  eentre  ol  the 
Spanioli  l<mn,  in  a  imrrovr  Rtrvel,  fron)  which  ellliviae, 
ftnythin^fUut  aromatie,  constantly  aecendtid  to  my  wimiuwit. 
1  have  no  doulit,  from  wliut  I  saw,  thnt  the  winter  ojinnte 
is  )ilriiNtnt  and  healthy,  dry,  vunny,  iiud  mild,  hut  t 
prCMurne  not  sunnier,  or  milder  than  in  the  OeiiouBe  Uiviera, 
perhafM^  Hot  ni  much  ko.  If  nioh  ih  the  ca^c,  why  dewettd 
to  the  moot  southern  extremity  of  Kurojie,  iu  the  most 
•oulli-enBl  corner  uf  Spain,  mcrvly  to  find  what  e.in  be 
found  within  a  Iwcnty-fDur  hnunt'  journey  of  i'lirin?  In 
definitive,  my  mtiilal  eoneliision  wns,  that  if  I*rd  Waldeo 
were  to  kindly  olfer  nic,  and  my  friend*,  hi*  pretty,  wetU 
built,  uhi-vrfid,  airy  vilb,  on  the  nutnliirts  of  tho  town,  I 
mi-;hl  he  temptt-u  to  try  Muruia,  were  1  still  in  mnirvb 


254  SPAIN. 

or  winter  qtmrtprs ;  not  othcrwisp.  Evpn  then  I  sboul j 
have  a  (jiialm ;  I  elioiiUi  nsk  m)w;If  w)ii;tli«r  tfw  very 
extensive  anil  pcrfvct  irrif^tion  of  hU  flower  ^rd«n  and 
Palm  trew,  and  of  the  markot  -^nrdi-ns  snil  Palm  tfeee 
of  hia  neighhoure,  may  not  ftmilticv  ngue,  (ever,  miiUria,  u 
it  <Io«s  in  tile  ontti  of  the  Deeert  of  Sahara,  autl  tJiat  ev«n , 
in  raid-winter. 

PIlTalCAL  OKDOBAPUT   AND   OEOIAOY   OF   SPAU« — UtIRCIA 
KLCItB   AKD   AUC4XTB. 

In  order  to  understand  the  climntcs  and  the  very  vnri< 
vegetation  of  Spain,  tho  exam  in  at  ion  of  whi«h  ivos  th« 
viHU^-ial  ohjei't  of  my  visit,  we  aiu»t  bear  in  mind  tlie  prin- 
oi[>al  geo}{raphical  and  Roolotfical  fMlnros  of  tlio  oountr}'. 
I  will  thvri.-fore  biictly  n^^pitulat^  tliem  before  wc  proceed 
on  our  jo  11  ri ivy  to  Alicante. 

'Hie  pi-iun&ula  of  Sjiain  is  a  mountain  pbin  or  tahk-- 
taiid,  raided  from  two  to  tlirc^*  tliooRund  fie«t  above  its  own 
COBita  and  aliovi;  the  mw.  Thix  tuli]ol«niI  i*  it-'=cir  divided 
into  parallel  Bections,  from  cast  to  west,  Ity  a  eeritw  of^^ 
hi^  mountain  rnngea,  all  hut  parallel  to  the  Pyr«neee,  th^^H 
prineipul  of  which  are  the  Sierra  (iuadarrama,  thv  Sierra^^ 
Tutedo,  the  Sierra  Morena,  the  Sierra  Nevada.  tiel«-KO 
these  mountain  oliaiaN  urn  tin;  i^rvat  central  raised  plains  of 
S|>ain,  more  than  two  lliotisand  feet  aliove  the  aea-k-vol,  and 
formei'ty  the  hottomft  or  beds  of  seas  and  estuariea,  or  of 
frenhwuU-r  lakes.  In  these  pluinit  run  all  the  lur(^  rivera, 
all  of  whicli  empty  themselves  into  llie  Atlantic  with  the 
exot'ption  of  the  Kbro.  Their  course  is  parallel  to  the 
mountain  chains.  Below  this  tableland  u  the  coast)  aoine> 
tiroes  a  mere  ledffe  or  underoliff,  but  oftener  preMiiting 
■mall  alluvial  plains  of  grratvr  or  Iptw  width,  watered  br 
the  rivers  tbnt  descend  from  the  hi];her  rrgion*.  It  will 
be  at  once  understood  that  such  a  country  must  prvstint  two 
totally  <liflV-rcnt  climate*  ;  the  climate  of  the  coa^t  or  aea- 
levul.  that  of  the  latitude  in  whieli  vJpain  is  rituat^d,  and 
the  climate  of  the  eciitr>d  raised  pl.iins  and  mountains. 
Tlic  latter  muKl  Iw,  and  is,  from  its  gvctil  uUitude,  a  much 
colder  climate  than  that  of  the  coast. 


PinrsiCAL   GEOORAPHV— OEOLOaV. 


255 


The  irmin  featUTM  of  the  ffeology  of  Sjiain  *re  Twy 
Btmpio  nntl  ciLiily  relaiiicil.  Tliv  iDDiinlalTi  dmin^  cnuoic- 
nit*'(i  are  primary,  and  form  Ihc  biwiit  of  tin.-  j^"»lof;v  of 
Spain.  Tliejr  ctncrgpd  before  tlio  secondary  jioriud,  lit?fi>re 
the  sccwmii»rj"  ri>rni«lii>n(i  wliicb  BUiroiind  them.  Th« 
(iuadariunia  chain  is  formed  of  granite,  ^riuivH  and  (■ryxtiil- 
line  echtsts ;  the  Toledo  chain  of  }(Tauit« ;  tlie  MoreDa 
clintn  of  xlntcD,  pMinmilva,  i{uartzit«s,  nai  sandstone  ;  the 
Ketrada  chain,  3.E.  of  tirauada,  of  tnuatet  of  ervKtallinc 
Mhista  with  nnmcrooa  g)irnL-t«t. 

Thfl  •econdary  roolia  are  represtvntcd  hy  the  Trias  triple, 
wliich  extends  from  the  Pyrenees  to  Uie  i>r<ivint'eil  of 
i  Adturias  and  SiintandiT,  and  also  by  the  Jui-asitic  and 
la  formationti,  n-hich  occupy  n  rutt  arm  in  th« 
and  mutliern  re);ion8  of  S|>ain,  funning  to  tliv 
monntiiine  many  thousand  foot  hiifh,  whicb  ooustttuta 
titn  iH?iiitriitiwn  between  the  ctutcrn  iind  western  watershed, 
ond  |>enetTat«  into  the  heart  of  the  cvuiitry  along  the 
Uuadarrama. 

Th«  twrtinty  formations  arc  represented  by  nammtilitic 
[xocka  or  older  tvrtiarivs,  always  contorled,  as  at  SiinUuidcr 
■ad  at  MalaRS,  and  by  mioceoe  or  yonnger  tertiary  bedii  or 
depoifite,  bnth  marine  and  freshwater.  Thc^c  youni^r 
tortiiirim  ocetipy  very  extensive  arew,  iirincipally  the  uluina 
and  valleya  of  the  great  rivers,  the  Kbto,  Uonro,  Tagus, 
titiiKliaiiA,  and  Ouoduiquivir,  which,  a«  already  stated,  w«re 
fomii-rly  aeas,  eatuaries,  or  freshwater  lalEca,  In  some 
re);ione  the  mioccne  and  pliocene  de|K>8)t!i  Tvach  an  eh-va- 
tion  of  26UO  feel,  which  sliow*  how  greatly  the  peninanlA 
of  !S|>niii  must  have  t>een  raised  in  eumpuru lively  rLTi.'iit 
geolocieal  times.  Many,  both  of  the  freshwater  and 
tnitrinc  foKnil  sliellH,  belon<>  to  K]>ccie»  still  living. 

For  the  above  ^jeological  details,  which  entirely  corroborat* 
and  give  form  to  my  own  ol«ennit>oni<,  I  am  indebted  to 
Ford's  valuable  "  Hundbouk  for  Spain."  I  did  nut  bring 
the  work  with  me,  expecting  to  find  it  at  the  livKt  Spanifili 
port,  but  could  not  obtuin  a  copy  until  1  n-adicd  Madrid; 
a  hint  to  other  travellers.  I  would  remark  also,  as  a  proof 
of  the  scientific  apathy  of  the  Spaniards,  that  1  failed  to 
obtain,  either  at  VutvnciJi,  the  seat  of  nn  impurlnnt  univer- 


2S6 


SPAIN. 


mty,  or  nl  Miiclri<1,  tlio  capilttl,  a  ^eolofHctl  in*p  of  Sinio 
or  any  work  on  itn  );eotoJf^^  1  was  told  by  all  the  book- 
Kcllcrs  to  whom  I  applii-d,  thiit  no  iiih-h  ma])  or  work 
evUUtl,  unli-Hit  in  n  Frfiivh  or  Kn;;li!ili  fonn,  iini)  tliiit , 
then*  was  no  demand  what«ver  lor  such  maps  or  worli 
thvY  did  not  kcc|>  thera.  The  booUsc-lk-rs'  nhop*  throu<^ 
nut  Spain  are  lew  nml  fur  Wtu-ccn,  iiiNi  inUerubly  niipplio 
Tliey  Bpp«r  to  contuiti  little  eUe  but  eli'm«Htary  educi? 
tiotial  woi'Ue,  tran^tatioDa  ol'  French  uovcU,  aiid  rcli^ioos 
biiiikii. 

\Vi§hin[c  to  see  the  Piilm  (rroves  of  Etcbe,  and 
country  bi-lwitin  Mmda  nntl  Aticuntc,  wocbnrlered  a  kind 
of  lijkfht  oiunibu»,  driitTH  by  four  multa,  and  atarlt^l 
ei^ht  oVInck  in  the  mormTig.  We  were  to  remain  tv 
hours  nt  BIche,  and  ti>  reach  Alicanti-  bv  six  o'clock,  tb 
•tutu  of  tho  road  |H.Tmilliiig.  The  mad  to  Aliviintc,  a 
senpiirt  alwut  forty  mitea  distant,  ]M)>Hefl  in  a  iior(b-e;iMerly 
diri-cUon  over  a  tpur  of  llic  Hccondnry  linu'slonc  mniiiitain 
that  b'linxU  and  r>>rn)fi  to  the  ncirth  ihtt  valt- of  M  nrcia  j 
it  agaia  I'alls  into  the  latter  ut  Oribiiein,  almut  twelve 
miles  from  Murcia.  As  soon  as  we  bad  ascended  :iut  of 
the  rvadi  of  irri;;utinn,  dcucilution  reappeiired ;  thousands 
of  acres  of  ploughed  land,  without  a  blade  of  ^niiii  or 
grflKS,  witliDUt  a  weed,  and  vef^talion  reduced  to  small 
«tu(it*-d  Olive,  Fiff,  and  Carouba  trees,  espivially  the 
lnttt-T.  At  tlie  same  time,  tjroves,  tliieketa  of  Opuntiu 
thowrd  thirinKvlvi'R,  all  in  Howlt.  Men  eat  the  insipid 
fruit,  oallle  the  leaves,  w>  some  good  i»  ^nt  oittoflhom, 
■nd  they  seem  all  but  able  to  crow  out  of  a  burning  rtickj^ , 
thi-y  clivrly  like  tbe  lime  soil.  On  dcecendin};  at;nin  int 
the  vnle  nl'  Murcia  at  Orihtiela,  as  Kuon  ax  water  is  rau;h«d^ 
tlie  »aine  niB;;ii-al  ohan^e  as  before  is  witnessed. 

Tlie  KrNt  well  is  indicated  by  a  house,  some  vecetatit 
around,  and  two,  thrive,  or  more  Palm  trees ;  for,  iu>  in  lhd_ 
Alrican  Desert,  the  I'alm  tree  means  water,  in  the  »oi! 
bcli'w  lln-  HiiH'iiei!,  n  well  or  u  nmnin<;  slrvam,  more  surely 
than  doi^s  the  lioinlfunly  I'oplar  in  Contim-nlal  Hnrope. 
M'bon  steady  irn;;alion  comnicnt'es  the  same  extdicmnt 
fertility  iippearcul  as  near  Murcia,  and  tbc  Wheut  was  alao 
turniug  yellow ;  Uierd  were  Ueuns,  Peas,  FUx,  largo  MuL 


ORIHUELA— PALM   GBOVBS. 


357 


twc*,  Olive,  Coroiihn,  Almnnd,  Apncot  (rt-w,  with 
Viiieo  and  Foinegniiiutoii.  I  nvri;r  li^t'ore  mw  sucli  Apricot 
trees,  [os  lar^e  as  fifty  year  old  Ouks,  and  8[>r«ndin^  likti 
tlieiD.  Tliu  IVuit  was  W^nnin};  to  ripi-ii,  but  it-  iiik-rior,  hh 
is  till!  fniil  of  mont  trfi'K  {^rown  in  tlic  o]>i;ii  tlt-ldft  mi  the 
Cuntiiii'iit.  But  the  peculbr  Twiture  of  OriliueU  ia  tbe 
P«liD8 ;  they  appeared  !o  oruhards,  in  ^rov«H,  in  tUJckots 
of  ft'Vy'r  u  hiindrvd,  or  more  acri-e,  from  ton  to  n  hiindicd 
f^  hiyti,  csnctiy  Win:  tlie  I'uliiu  in  India,  as  one  ut*  my 
compsnious,  an  Indian  officer,  bUited. 

Tliu  vx|>lanation  of  their  preeenoe,  in  suoli  muUitudOK,  Jn 
this  dirtrict  i:a  that  from  Ctirthngi'uii  to  Atioaiitv,  owii)|;  U> 
Uie  intense  heat  of  tii«  summer,  and  to  the  dryness  of  the 
winter  climate,  they  ripen  their  fruity  whiuh  con»eqiieDtly 
become*  an  important  ohject  of  trade.  The  Dalvs  are  the 
brcv,  iBriuueeuim  «pvci«i>,  not  llie  »i>t\  Mwoet  kind  vncmstvd 
witli  eujtar.  Orihuela  ia  »  dvn»e  hive  of  human  beiu^s, 
I'J.UUO  Btroiig,  all  Huli^isting  oti  tlie  bounty  of  Nature  thua 
liel|K-d  by  man,  and  in  a  great  meuaure  on  the  produce  of 
the  I'alm  dates.  I  lemarked  throughout  thiit  rir<;ioii 
basaltic  rooks  vroppin^  out  of  Ute  liniuHtono  mountains, 
tad  it  is  probable  that  their  pre»cnee  gives  another  element 
to  the  tinictstone  soil,  and  one  that  suits  tiie  constitution  of 
ihe  Date  Palm,  a*  1  have  prevtoutily  stated,  llatber  scveia 
earthquakes  are  oecaxiimally  felt. 

On  ri»iu»  out  of  this  huppy  valley,  in  our  track  across 
the  rainlcM  oountiy,  tve  once  more  entered  o.iliAreous 
plains,  sunburnt,  and  all  hut  devoid  of  vet;otablc  lifo. 
They  would  have  been  entirely  »<i  had  it  not  been  for  the 
Caroaba,  Olive,  and  Fig,  whi«h  here  a-;^n,  although 
■tuntcd,  DUUMgo  to  live  through  all  tb««  diHieidties. 
Hmm  treee  poneM  routs  that  have  the  power  of  tniveliing 
rariy  any  distance,  or  dippinj;  down  nearly  any  depth  in 
Hareh  of  food  and  water.  'Hiey  are,  as  my  Mentone 
gardener  calU  thum, "  robbers,"  and  I  have  had  to  cxtirpiit« 
the  Fi({  entirely  in  my  Kivtem  ^irden,  lor  wherever  I 
mad*  a  rich  border,  there  I  found  hiu  roots  at  the  etui  of  u 
yvar  or  two.  lliis  explains  tlieir  power  of  reaialauc«  to 
draught,  oonpied  with  a  constitution  suited  to  intense  b«rt 
and  to  toog-continuud  vegetative  rests  or  sleeps  during  hot 


S68 


SPAIN. 


drjr  wcathfr.  But  althnnifh  tttey  am  (hns  I 
ymt  or  morp,  ull  biit  vritboat  wiitt-r,  mcnily  muiBton«l  hy 
tlto  ilcw  of  h«arnt,  they  do  not  produce  frtiit,  or  at  li-Mt 
MlaUe  fruit,  under  such  ndveree  drcaniBtances.  It  m*d« 
me  qait«  ead  to  see  so  roiich  litbour  and  eeed  wasted,  an 
ffntirc  country  clcantd,  p1ou^h<-d,  and  t>nwii,  and  not  eTen  « 
crop  of  woudR  to  di|r  in  for  the  n«xt  season.  On  on«  occa- 
sion I  leFt  the  carrlBge  and  walked  over  twenty  or  thirty 
acres  of  tho  ploughed  land,  and  only  found  half-a-doMD 
hcrliiicooiiN  Kiiiiliorhiiiit,  some  three  or  four  indiCK  hi^h ;  two 
or  ttir«o  Nmnll  TiiiBl1e<i,  and  a  amall  Conrolvulus  flower,  nt  the 
bottomof  a  ditc'h.  The  calearcoiia  mountnin  rid^ra  to  the 
north-west,  which  wc  Fkirtvd,  were  mori;  bare  than  the  whit« 
cliff*  ef  Dover  in  their  most  precinitous  part.  Truly  did 
tliey  seem  the  bore  Iwrns  of  the  eartli  piercinif  its  skin. 

After  n  procrosB  of  some  twenty  miles  through  this 
ciiltivateil  wildemeiw,  we  came  to  iinothcr  vallvy,  antt  (hm 
buntton  our  n«toniahcd  eyes  an  onsis  of  the  Afriean  d«Mrt, 
eui'h  nN  we  had  winhed  to  see  in  Africa,  but  had  not  scon 
— a  forest  of  tropical  Date  Palme,  extending  over  a  vast 
re(pon,  many  miles  in  cirrumferenee,  and  mirrotindinj;  tbe 
fnnied  viltn|;<!  or  town  of  Klche.  The  river  bed  wu  croaseil 
by  a  f;ond  brid^f,  but  in  it  there  was  no  river.  It  bad 
liccn  tuken  up  Ixidily  by  th(>  inhnliitnnt!,  and  distributed 
in  cannU  to  their  friemis  and  brvad-jjivfru  tlie  t'alnw.  I 
rctniiined  here  several  boun,  and  walked  miles  in  the  Palm 
forest,  tbe  like  of  which  my  Indian  companion  had  never 
Men  In  Ibc  tropin.  Th'rre  n-era  canal*  full  of  water 
Hflwiiit;  rapidly  in  every  direction,  and  the  ground  was 
evenywlieie  prepared  for  constant  irrigation,  in  trenohes, 
in  tipiares,  in  paralleloffroms,  banked  up  W  earth  walls 
one  or  t>v«  fert  biuh.  Wiiter  was  constantly  let  into  these 
t/emlies  ond  »^iiiireH,  nnd  allowed  xlowly  to  soak  in  m>  as 
to  moisten  the  soil  thoniutrhly,  wherever  there  were 
roots.  Thus,  a(tuin,  whs  I  reminded  of  the  Arab  sayintt, 
that  lb«  I'idm  "must  have  his  roots  in  the  water,  and  liis 
brad  in  the  Are."  Tliere  were  Palms  of  all  sixes,  from 
twenty  to  ciphty  feet  of  every  shape  and  direction. 
Soma  erect,  like  the  Tnijan  column  of  Homo,  others 
fully   twisted    or    incliuvd.      Sometime*   they    wen 


APBICOT  TREES — A  SPANISH  INN. 


259 


growinf*  oapricioosly,  somcttmee  id  rovre,  or  in  M|iiare8, 
mcthoilicjiUy  pUnh-d.  The  D«te  Turest  wm  irnitt  i(x-idi'ntly 
n  vuhialile  ]>ro|>crty,  aad  the  boaiidary  of  each  ])riipricti>r'ii 
grounda  waa  protected  by  walls,  with  doors  here  ami  there, 
admtttini;  oi  easy  ing^rCM  and  vgrfxt.  The  dates  were 
being  gathered  from  Nome  of  the  tree*,  n-hiiNt  other  trcvf, 
•ometJmea  tlie  same  one,  were  in  full  floirer.  Iti  some 
regions  of  the  Ibrtets,  where  the  Palms  were  not  so  close 
toi^'thcr,  then:  were  rcm-tnbh-s,  l\-tu.  Beans,  prowin^ 
undi-itieath  tfaeiDi  but  UiU  waH  the  exceptiDH.  Evidently 
the  dat^K  were  too  valuable  a  crop,  like  lemons  at  Men- 
tone,  for  ererythingelBO  not  to  pire  way  to  tbem,  wherever 
they  oould  be  cultivated,  n/iW  irrigati^d.  Th<-  lund  nppeare'l 
to  b«  a  calearoouH  loam,  but  on  examining  the  t^mply  river 
bed,  I  found  it  a  mass  of  siliceous  sand,  so  tliat,  no  doubt, 
the  soil  in  the  district  i«  improtrnated  with  siles.  The 
dattw  are  gatJiered  by  boyi',  who  Nwiirm  up  tlic  trees,  an 
opentiou  tJiat  wu  cocily  ]>errormed  hy  a  »iniil]  hoy  for  uur 
ediSoation.  LikethuHe  ut  Mureia  and  Orihucla,  thiy  nn;  of 
the  solid  farinaceous  variety.  The  soft  saccharine  Sahunan 
dates,  which  ore  principally  im))ort«d  into  northern  Europe, 
I  did  not  MX  in  8pnin.  In  the  Algerinc  Dc-ieii  and  in 
Egypt  tbisi  variety  of  the  date  is  roure  rained  and  more 
expensive,  because  it  is  the  one  cliown  for  exportation,  but  ; 
the  9olid  rariiiiKMiniiH  variety  is  prefernr*!  for  fond,  ns  in 
ftpain.  In  this  eouiitry  the  duteit  ripened  on  the  south- 
eastern coaat  are  exteimvely  u^ed  us  an  urtiele  of  fond.  I 
saw  large  (|uantitieB  of  thorn  in  all  the  mnrbetii  I  visited. 

Near  Elche  I  also  saw  many  of  the  fine  Apricot  trees 
before  deteribcd,  growing  like  (laks,  in  the  opun  fields,  and 
covered  with  fruit,  neorlv  ri|>e.  The  Aprieut  eh-arly  like* 
dry  warm  soils  of  a  siheo-calcnreons  nature.  This  fact, 
parbapK,  explains  my  greitt  «ucx:>ws  with  Apricot  trecH  on 
walb  (the  Moor  Park),  in  niy  hot  watidy  giirdeii  in  Surrey* 
I  each  year  raise  on  a  south  wall,  with  the  assistAnce  of 
sprin^f  protection,  the  most  luscious  and  the  lnrK<''>t  Aprirota 
1  liiive  ever  ween,  t  liave  totally  faik-d  to  obtain  ii  crop  I 
with  llieiae  same  tre««  in  the  rich  artificial  loom  of  a  largi; 

.       glnse  orchard  house. 

I         At  Elche,  we  dined  at  a  Posada,  or  Inn,  which  exem. 


260 


fipAiy. 


Clifti-d  in  It*  roimtmrtion  SpauMli  nnyti  iw  npplu>(]  U> a  tvtnii 
itttiitii;  <-ltmnt«>.  Tho  crntre  of  tli«  hou3«  was  likr  an 
initnphfG  linrn,  t^ith  a  vcn'  lieftvjr  roof,  and  in  one  ciirn«r 
wiLk  n  i]r<'|)  well  of  pun!  cool  water.  As  iit  tlic  D«8crt  of 
Sah>rB,  ill  lUi-Ho  tniimimt  regions,  n«ar  mminUitia,  tbpra  ia 
ollon  wntiT  ill  liikii,  rivt-n,  and  Mirin|fi«,  Wlow  tlie  aurfaee, 
flltUou^li  Ihv  Iiillcr  is  |wrclie<l  and  siinbamt.  If  the  wntcr 
Clin  !>«■  prsiclx-*),  man  ei-tllM  round  the  precious  well,  and 
liiK  InlKiiir  irrtjjntt'"  tlie  coiintr/  around,  producing  luxuriant 
vrtfctutifn  wherever  llie  water  can  be  applied.  Hut  the 
liiliuiir  in  nrrnt,  ii  fact  which  limits  its  fL-rtilhcini;  powers  to 
a  •mail  am.  No  doiilit  many  of  tliese  diiitncta  might 
he  rcrlilizrd  !>;  Ar1n>tnn  welU.  In  this  Inni-like  disem- 
bowellttl  houHi"  or  cavern  were  several  aarriaKcs  and  carts 
drawn  Dp  in  n  i-orner,  many  imptcDiL-nts  of  hiisliandrv,  and 
«]|  kinds  ol'  odds  hdiI  endx.  It  vrus  evidently  thi'  kiluhcB, 
IMrlonr,  innl  hall,  an  well  a-i  wiiih)Kiu»e,  store,  and  Uinibcr 
niom :  and  a  very  pleinant  ciivem  house  it  Mwnnd  iu  Uie 
Ileal  ffvcn  of  curly  May.  Iteliind  was  a  yard,  and  l>ehind 
»thnt  a  roomy  stulde,  with  staodint;  for  a  hundn-d  hnivM, 
>r  mlher  tnules,  the  animal  generally  uied  in  Spuin  uii 
Br<'i>iinl  of  il«  huidilxMid  and  suliviety. 

Itetween  KIche  and  Alicante  I  found  the  same  t-uUivated 
hnrrenni-M,  th>>  snme  hrovrn  nuked  fields,  dotted  with  u  few 
KtiiiiUd  Cii  rail  has,  Olivr*^  and  Fiu*;  even  on  arriving  at 
Alicante  thii  dcvolaliun  of  thirst  did  not  cease. 


aucaktk. 


Aliennto  ha»  a  ([mid  port.,  in  a  good  bnr.  which  hringi 
conimeree.  htit  it  hue  no  valley,  no  river,  only  one  ^ooll 
H]>ring,  which  never  driix  ii|i,  and  dix-s  nut  even  mudl 
diniiniBh  in  ye«n  of  drixi^jhl.  This  spring,  sitnaled  aliovt 
a  mile  from  tho  town,  is,  I  was  told,  rcuUy  a  fountain  of 
Mil  for  Alimnte,  inasmuch  na  it  snpplirw  the  ihtnt  nod 
"oeeanioual"  ablutions  of  n  town  ol  3I,!>(I0  iiihal>itAnt«; 
with  the  assistance,  however,  of  large  rain-water  tAuW 
ued   for   retaining   min   when    it  dues    fall.     The   town 

olf  uJt«r  this  wuitvr'a  drought  was  likv  Cartbag«iug  a 


AUCAKTE. 


mere  enter  to  a  voloano,  without  regetation,  with  tho  ex- 
ception of  a  fvw  stunted  Acuciae,  C^ruubiut,  itiid  otUur  I  rcsa 
with  spurBC  foliage,  [>lunl«<l  along  llic  «idcH  of  Uie  mitin 
road,  moh  in  a  dvep  circular  bi-iuked  liule  tionie  luur  levt  in 
diameter,  for  irri^liun.  There  naa  au  uttempt  iil  ii  garden 
in  a  s'^iure  on  one  side  ol'  the  towi),  whcro  Mt>iit)ily  anil 
Ben:^il  l{u««g,  Puppii-K,  Anlirrhiiiiims,  I)i!i|iliiniiitiix,  uml 
Ilmris,  with  Vtrgiuitiii  SLuck,  roniiud  tlie  llower-liL-d!!, 
without  a  trdiee  of  winter  (ra-rilaniag.  From  the  odalla  rocb 
wt:  6UW  one  ^reeu  spot  in  the  tuwn,  the  gurdeti  ol'  tho 
unvvrnor,  who  evidently  gi^t«  the  lion'it  ^haie  of  the  water. 
Tlie  coiiat  tK  rocky,  and  the  hca  and  hay  utv  |>iL.'tiii'iM<jLit!. 

T)ie  town  itaeli*  is  open,  not  surrounded  by  wails,  and 
the  principal  streets  near  the  poit  aiv  wide  and  cliriin.  It 
Itee  at  tlie  koiiI h-e-.Mitern  l>;jsi-  of  a  rouk  4I)U  lei-l  high, 
00  which  IN  perched  the  eu«lltt,  wlilcli  tltii»  eomjilelely 
coiDmandA  the  eity.  There  ia  a  hvge  hotel,  the  "  I'linda 
d«l  Vajwr,"  with  un  ohliyinj^  host,  at  which  we  were  made 
quit«  couirortable.  Tiits  hotel  oecupiei^  un  extensive  hiiitd- 
ing,  fortnorly  ■  caslom  house.  It  is  oppueito  tiie  port,  au 
olyvction,  a*  the  ways  of  Lhe  IxhourerK  of  a  Houtliuru  aca- 
pott  are  not  alwaya  pleamnt  to  witncNi. 

The  town  is  ao  diuty,  so  surihurnt,  so  arid,  so  dried  up, 
no  devoid  ol*  vegetation,  and  consequently  so  di'«olair,  tlitit 
a  retidoneo  here  tor  mouths  would  hu  a  wad  punanee, 
Otherwise  Aliuaud;  uppmrs  to  nic  decidedly  the  nmul 
(avourahle  health  ^Utiou  llmL  1  have  .-ieen  on  the  routh- 
eaptcni  cojst  of  iipain.  The  climate  roust  bo  mild,  sunny, 
and  dry,  aud  there  uk  no  rice  grounds  to  produce  malaria 
as  at  .Murciu  or  Valencia.  Thi  re  in  a  Unert^i,  or  irrigated 
valley,  it  is  true,  connucted  with  Alicjintc,  but  it  is  Kituatud 
lit  some  di»taaoe  north  ol'  the  town.  I  had  no  lime  to 
viitit  it,  hut  was  told  that  in  ihiis  vallcv,  »«  in  those  of 
Murciu  and  Viilvnciii,  owing  !■>  the  prcucuee  of  water, 
vegetation  never  fl->^H,  and  tite  cropa  follow  each  other  iu 
rapid  anceeasion  nil  the  year  round. 

Indeed,  the  entire  province  of  .Muieia,  fri'iu  Oarthagcna 
to  Alicante,  mu«t  he  exuepttonally  tuvoured  in  winter— > 
dry,  sunny,  cool,  and  hracing.  It^  vi-gulatinn  iiidieutoa 
th«  same  dimate  chanwteriitius  aa  tlioae  that  whlviii  od  the 


26S 


SPAIN. 


GenoeAe  undei%li(r,  ^reat  heat  in  tummer,  except? 
ilryaees  and  mildness  in  winter.  Thus  we  have  in  both 
regions,  growiof;  Uuiiriantly,  Date  PuIdis,  Lemon,  Oran^, 
Carouba  trees,  Opuntiiu<,  AWs.  The  drynetw  ul'  Miircii 
mml,  however,  be  greater  than  that  of  the  Rivie 
inosmueh  iis  the  fertility  of  the  ene  is  entirely  owing 
irrigation,  whereas  in  the  other  it  results  in  a  great  measure 
from  nntnral  ritinfnll.  The  dryness  of  Miircta  ts  so  cxtr<.-mc 
that  the  entire  province  rescmbh-a  the  Desert  of  Sahara, 
where  nothing  grows  epontaneounly,  except  in  the  hodsi  of 
torrents,  and  on  the  margin  of  springs,  or  of  lakes,  w  hich  are 
dry  pjirt  of  the  year.  I  was  ^^eatty  stnick  with  the  euddi-n 
change  from  Algeria  to  Muruia :  I  luft  Algeria  ■  very 
gurdt'ti  of  verdure,  of  fertility,  aod  found  Sfnin  "  tlie 
ilebcrt"  Alj^eria  is  so  erroneously  presumed  to  be. 

I  believe  that  nil  forms  of  disease  requiring  F^uch  a  clima 
nil  that  1  have  enumerated  in  the  medical  trhiiptvr  on  the 
Rivicru  ns  likely  tu  benefit  by  mild,  dry,  hnicing  winter 
weather,  would  do  well  in  any  part  of  Mnrcio.  I  do  not 
•my  "niuallv"  welt,  because  it  remains  to  be  proved  by 
aotunl  experience  whether  extreme  dryness,  on  atmosphere 
where  it  oltcn  docs  not  rain  twice  in  the  winter,  may  not  litt 
too  flimuliiling;  periods  of  long  drought  in  winter  at  Men- 
tone  buvu  olU-u  appeared  to  me  to  be  so.  But  tu  lest  this 
QUeslion,  and  lor  Murcia  to  be  a  safe  winter  relu^^e  for 
^eat  invalidK,  there  Is  ftlll  mni'h  wanted.  An  Kii'^livh  or 
foreign  company  with  a  large  capitui,  flmuld  build 
hotel  in  the  suburbs  of  Carthagena,  Mureia,  Orihu' 
Elche,  or  Alicante,  for  tbey  must  be  all  good  stati 
regards  winter  eltmatc.  A  choice  situntion  should  bo 
sejeeted,  an  abundant  KU]ip)y  ot  waler  (>l>li<in«tl  hy  ineiint 
of  nn  Artesian  well,  a  nice  flower  and  shrub  g^^rden  there* 
with  created,  and  the  decencies  and  eomtoris  of  northern 
i-iviJization  secured.  \Vero  there  such  an  hotel,  1  should 
be  quite  willing  to  spend  a  winter  there  myself.  No  doubt 
there  nrv  in  many  regions  of  Mnrcia  subterranean  water* 
courses,  and  springs  capable  of  being  tapped  and  brought 
to  the  snrruce  if  pmpcr  means  were  employed,  and  thus  tha 
area  of  its  fertility  might  lie  {jrcnlly  extviidrtl. 
The  TL-ry  ouatume  ol'  the  inhabitant*  of  the  province  of 


'^ilKfl  or 

>rihueljfl 
tions  t^^ 


ALICANTE  TO  VALENCIA. 


2Ga 


AUCASTl!  TO   VALKSCU. 


Inrcia  iiKltcatcv  a  dry  mild  winter  olimnttf,  as  thai  of  Uio 
inbnbiUnU  of  Al;;ierji  indiwitc*  s  m%i'i»t  coci)  one.  Th« 
taller  vroar  oue,  two,  or  three  thick  wmjllcif  bournous  with 
faooda,  which  envelop  them  from  ihe  head  to  the  fict. 
The  rorinor  tnerel}'  wei>r  linen  drnwere,  ending  n  lilllu  holuw 
the  knee,  and  a  linen  tunio,  which  i«  i'uHtcndd  by  a  girdls 
at  t)ie  waist,  and  desoetidH  ni-arly  to  th«  knees.  It  is  a 
kind  of  tirexk  coetunie.  Thu  head  is  covered  with  a  species 
of  turban  cap,  and  tbc  aoUw  of  the  feet  arv  clipped  in  r»pa 
MtndaU,  which  Leave  the  feet  naked,  and  would  in  no  way 
defend  tliem  from  wet  or  mud.  On  holidays,  and  no  doubt 
generally  in  winter,  they  wear  on  tboir  shooIderB  a  many- 
coloured  Hcarf,  or  mania,  us  it  ii>  called,  us  tbu  tliglilaudcr 
weara  hia  plaid. 

^K  Tlie  railroad  by  which  we  left  Alicante  for  Valencia  ^  ^ 
^^H  but  due  west  for  about  Bflecu  miles,  over  culcareout 
mountain  slopes,  exactly  of  the  same  character  as  those  by 
wbieh  we  entered  Aticanlc.  The  country  bore  precisely 
the  Kime  »taiiip  of  drymrsn — oi  vain  attemplx  to  raiitc  by 
careful  and  laborious  liuabun<li-y  a  grain  crop.  Tbc  Jidda, 
were  all  limited  by  the  itanie  litile  banks  of  earth  sonio 
eight  or  ten  in<rhe«  bii^b,  to  keep  in  rain  that  bud  never 
come.  It  wan  painful  to  think  of  the  Ions,  and  probably  ruiil, 
entailed  on  the  cultivators  of  tbc  soil  by  a  Kuccesiiion  of 
BeaKone  sncli  as  the  present,  for  the  stunted  Carouba,  Olive, 
and  Fi<;  Ireea  »biiwed  that  the  drought,  although  greater 
thiayear  than  uiual,  wan  not  nn  exceptional  event.  Indved 
wliat  I  have  seen  in  thin  n-j^ion,  in  .-Vfrica,  and  elsewhere  in 
the  south  of  Kurope,  baa  led  me  to  tbc  conviction  that  with 
all  tbc  uncertainty  of  our  climate,  our  agriculturicts  ara 
better  olT  titua  those  in  many  rc^ons  uauully  conMidered 
more  favoured.  Wherever  a  deep  well  oan  reach  water, 
there  we  found  one,  with  a  homestead,  a  few  trees,  and  % 
sparse  cullivation.  We  constantly  saw,  bci-e  and  elicwhure,. 
the  entire  family,  father,  mother,  children,  ul  work,  drawtnj*^' 
water,  by  meanit,  not  of  bucket  and  rope,  but  of  a  l<ing 
dI«  worked  as  a  lever.     At  an  elevation  of  lUUO  feel,  we 


2G4  srAm. 

rcacli«(l  n  TKU«y  throiigli  winch  flows  tlie  little  river  tn? 
n«iirer  Uio  wn,  fcrlilizi-a  the  Pulm  I'oreete  of  KIcbv.  WiUi 
uontrol  over  wiTUr,  at  odl-c  ooinini.'iioi.sl  detvrininvd  eirurU 
nt  cultivation.  Fig,  Olive,  AlinomI,  and  Caroulu  trees, 
iiD(l  |iatcheB  of  cereals,  occupied  llie  valley,  wliilst  Vines 
extended  ovrr  the  hill-sides.  Gradunlly,  hs  the  dcratiou 
becuiDC  creator,  the  viilloy  wiw  too  xteeji,  and  the  cotitse  of 
the  Bniall  river  too  turrcntiul  to  admit  of  irrigation  on  an 
extensive  Ewale ;  the  Fik,  Ohve,  and  Cnrouba  tre«s  wore 
Rcaiiiticr  and  smaller,  iind  Vines,  all  but  alone,  Dceupicd  tlic 
aouthem  alopcs  of  the  hiiU. 

The  soil  became  very  otnny  and  jKinr,  ho  that,  s1thou(i;b 
the  Wheat  crop,  here  and  there,  had  coine  out  of  tJis 
{^lund,  it  was  only  three  or  four  inches  hi);h,  Ricngrt 
and  thin.  About  thirty  miles  from  the  fhorc,  at  aa 
clvvation  of  some  2200  ftNil,  we  reached  the  tabteIaD<l 
of  central  Spuin.  Tlie  soil  emitinued  to  be  of  the  same 
character,  a  thin  vejietable  loam  lying  on  calcareous  rocks, 
itntil  we  came  to  the  jnnctioii  of  the  Madrid  Rnilway,  at 
Almnztir,  2200  feet  above  the  seatevcl.  We  were  tlieo 
in  the  high  [ilains  of  ecntiul  Spain  which  form  Old  and 
Jt'e"'  Caistile.  Not  a  tree  was  to  W  seen  in  any  direction, 
nothing  but  naked  plains,  mounttiins  bounding  the  horizon, 
and  fields  in  vain  tilled  with  (he  plough  for  Wheal, 
niiire  wrrtched-looUini;  district,  agricultoniily,  1  nev 
saw.  The  Wiltshire  downs  are  fertility  in  comparison 
the  Curouba,  Olive,  and  Fig  trees  had  abandoned  us,  tiii 
were  replaced  by  nothing,  neither  tree  nor  htish. 

Our  progrew  was  so  slitw  that  wo  liml  plenty  of  leisni 
fop  obsori'atioD.  The  Spanish  railways  are  only  made  with 
one  lino  of  rails,  and  the  mils  themselves  are  n)Ui-h  lighter 
than  in  Knyland  or  Fr*iiRV.  Consttjuently,  frequent  stojv 
jiuyV^  tiik<-  place,  mid  the  npi^ed  i»  not  greater  tlian  aUmt 
iil'iei-n  miles  an  hour.  Although  the  railways,  which  now 
connect  nearly  all  the  principal  townn  with  Madrid,  hav« 
rendered  travelling  in  ^pain  infinitely  maro  commodious 
than  formerly,  it  is  still  very  tcdioux.  The  carriages  are  oa 
good  ait  our  own. 

At  Alicante  we  left  (May  6)  a  temperature  of  7^°  by  < 
and  70"  by  ni^bt,  and  a  midsummer  vegetation.    When 


ALICAKTE  TO  VALENCIA— CENTRAL  SPAIN.     265 


arrircti  on  tln!  ocittrul  pining  wc  liitj  fionc  luick  to  April. 
IIk!  tliurmomet«r  wna  OU",  thtt  win<l  oolO,  t)ii'  cercul*  ou\f 
jnat  npjiearing  above  the  ^iniuii],  oiid  llw  few  trees  w« 
saw  at  tiie  dtalionE,  principally  Acncin  and  Melin  Azeda- 
nck,  JitMt  comiii';  into  haW  The  InlU-r  is  vtrry  coinmrjiily 
growa  Tor  orriaiii^tit  id  Spitin.  anil  is  i»lled  Biraisa  ill 
Andalufiia.  It  has  a  pretty  llower,  very  much  like  the 
Xiilnc,  but  ite  foliatrc  is  th<n,  §o  that  it  really  doi-o  not  ilu- 
Tve  ihc  wtfem  in  wliwh  it  in  held ;  probubly  from  its 
iodiflurence  tn  dtou^^ht  iind  drvni-KH.  ADcir  eiintini;iiig  our 
rutiti-  tor  some  lioura  iu  a  norlli-iveaterly  direction  thi'Oii;fh 
lia  bloak,  trei-le^,  calcareotis  plain,  without  farini;  or 
lOtiaea,  occasionally  slo]i|>in<;  at  villii-^s  or  rnnall  towns, 
formed  by  an  agglomeration  ornDiihurnt  dwellings  huddled 
on  Ihe  (op  or  side  of  a  hill,  we  turned  eastward,  and  begUQ 
ito  dmcvnil  towatda  ValvoHa. 

A-H  ftoon  u»  the  brow  o)'  the  mountain  wns  pn>wc>1,  and 
a  Bonth-eii»tem  espovua'  wii«  ohl^iinud,  even  at  an  tjlevutiou 
;Of  £000  feet,  an  indicated  by  un  aneroid  barometer,  stunted 
live  aDd  Vig  trera,  with  Vines,  made  their  appB.iranc0. 
Tlie  hill-nidc  presented  also  in  every  direction  dt-ep  water- 
Worn  ravineo,  the  bed»of  lormer  river*  and  turrenU.  I  aajr 
"  former"  l>coaiise  it  ii  cluar  that  now  no  considei-abte  bod/ 
of  water  ever  flows  thrau^h  them,  intismueh  as  in  the  very^ 
buds  of  thctic  ravines  are  planted  Fig  and  Olive  trees,  whiob 
•ay  cunvideniMe  muh  ot  waii-r  during  the  previous  twenty' 
or  forty  years  wouhl  elcurly  have  uiirrii'd  away.  Theee  dry 
tne  planted  watercourses  clearly  imply  a  ehan|re  of  elimatir, 
probubty  the  reeidt  of  the  forest  deniidalioD  of  the  plaltu  I 
had  ermiM.-<]  in  the  marntn;;. 
^^r  In  liinner  liiNlJiric  dayn  tlicwe  plains  were  covered  wilb 
^Hfurvet  trees,  whioh  the  inliabilaTita  have  riithles«ly  destroyed, 
^^  partly  for  fuel  and  buildin-,;,  and  partly  in  complianne  with 
L  an  iiiKniie  but  universal  prejudice.  The  Spanixh  peasantry 
L  think  that  treeK  Imrhnur  binli',  and  that  as  l>irdB  destroy  th4 
cere^ils,  tlic  only  way  to  jfct  rid  of  the  birds  is  to  cut  down 
the  trees.  Thus  have  they,  in  the  long  run,  ehanged  the 
climate  of  Central  t^pain,  moditied  the  natural  rainfall,  and 
made  Die  centml  plains  only  a  du^oe  leaa  dry  than  the 
raiiileHs  oiwtcrn  ooust. 


266 


SPAIN. 


As  the  line  <Ic«o«n<U,  the  Olive  and  Fii;  tnt» 
larger,  uiid  Curonbu  trees  appear,  until  at  ubuut  1200 
elevation  tlii;  scene  clionges  into  one  of  t-xuberant  ferlility. 
Water — n'at«r  iu  abundnnco,  a  real  river — iios  been  reachea ; 
^8t«inatic  scicntilio  irrt<;Btinn,  a  Kift  of  the  Moors  in  timita 
gone  by,  curries  llie  water  everywhere ;  unii  tlic  rieli  vege- 
tation of  the  irrigated  valleys  of  Murcia  and  Orihuela  ia 
ugnin  rcproduci^d,  oven  iik  a  more  g^randioee  style.  The  rail 
reaches  at  this  vlcviiti»n  the  southern  lioundnry  of  a  trian- 
gular plain,  or  9l()])iti};  valluy,  with  ite  buse  to  the  Ken  eunU 
wards,  through  which  three  small  rivers  run  from  the 
eontnil  mountainouK  tuhlcland  to  the  Rest.  Wherever  thinr 
waters  ean  be  carried  by  irrigation,  the  sunshine  and  heat, 
combined  with  protection  from  northern  nindK  and  viealous 
traditional  cultivation,  produce  the  roost  wonderiul  fertility. 
This  fertility  incrxaecs  as  we  descend  to  the  sea,  as  the 
ooTiditicin.s  of  ht;iil  ami  protection  inoreaso,  as  the  ulluvta 
soil  l)i>i<oi])»i  doL'pcr,  and  as  eumplutc  and  repeated  irri>;uti(] 
become*  easier. 

The  veitetatiun  b  exactly  the  same  as  in  the  valley 
Mur«in.  Lar^^  Olive,  Fi;;,  and  Carouba  trees,  tbe  latt«l 
always  in  the  driest  aitiuilions,  the  liMvt  accessible  to 
jtatiuii,  often  magnificent  treea  like  OalcH;  Apriool  trees  < 
the  same  aize,  really  beautiful  to  look  at,  but  covered  witli 
Bceond-rate  fniit;  Vinf8  on  the  bill-eide;  Cereals,  Beans, 
Peas,  on  the  irrigalrd  levels,  the  former  three  feet  high, 
thick,  luxuriant  iu  the  ear.  As  we  approMcli  Vutoncia  there 
are  orchards  of  Pumej^nate  aad  Orange  trees,  the  latter 
ispuill,  M  at  Murcia,  by  beiiit?  grown  in  bushes,  cut  down 
close  to  the  ground  and  ulluwed  to  grow  up  with  a  doun 
sten)s,  tike  large  Portugal  Lauvels.  I  hud  hirard  so  niueli 
abifut  the  Orange  jjrovcs  of  Valencia  that  1  was  greatly 
disappointed  ;  these  hush  trees  are  not  to  be  compared  for 
beauty  to  the  largo  Oraiijie  trees  of  other  sheltered  region* 
of  the  Mediterranew).  I  pret>ume  they  are  cultivated  in 
this  way  as  a  protection  Irom  the  wind,  which  Orange  trees 
cannot  stand,  esjK'eially  if  it  comes  from  the  north,  nortlw 
east,  or  north-west. 

As  the  lower  levels  are  reached  a  new  feature  appears — 
cxtvusivo  Uice  Bclds.    These  fields,  ou  the  river  side,  aro 


VALENCIA.  267: 

sDrTonnd«jl  witli  motin<Iit  of  csrth  some  cightom  inchoe 
hi|rh.  The  mi)  is  ploii)rhed,  water  ia  let  in  to  xoiilc  it 
tfaorot^bly,  then  tli«  Rice  is  sown,  watvr  is  a^io  )et  in  to 
the  depth  of  xix  ttK-tiCf ,  nnd  the  ercd  pluiigh<.-d  in  a  second 
lime  umlcr  the  vruter.  the  men  tind  inul<-N  norkinfj;  with  the 
slough  kntH>  deep,  'lite  water  is  allowed  to  remain  od  thfl 
land,  reuewed  as  it  mobs  in,  and  the  Rice  comes  up  as  a 
water  ptimt.  Prom  th«  oiitbcdnil  tower  of  Viik'noiJt  the 
entire  expiinw  of  thi«  fruill'iil  region  in  »c«n,  oxU'iiding 
down  to  the  sea.  Valencia  is  three  miles  from  the  coaitt, 
and  the  entire  district  is  doited  with  these  Uice  grounds. 
Tlwy  are  u  serious  dranbui-lt  to  the  pnblic  health,  giving 
ri»e,  it  in  ititi<l,  to  much  iiitermittt^iil  ivvar  in  tliu  autumn. 

Spuiieh  writers,  and  travellers  in  general,  go  into  rap- 
torea  about  the  wondrous  heauty  of  these  fertile  valleys, 
but  I  mui;t  eoiift<e»  tlint  1  cunnol  join  witli  them.  Uice, 
com,  bcauA,  noiitli-rcd  oil-producin<;  Olive  tn-c*,  »ilk- 
prodocing  jioltard  Mulherry  trees,  I*omc^rnnBtL'ti,  Vinea, 
Orange  bushes  in  rows  like  soldiers,  are  all  very  well  in 
their  way  as  evidoDces  of  cultivation  and  '>f  a  fertile  soil, 
but  Diiqno^lioniihly  they  no  more  conduce  to  hcnutifitl 
Kenrry  than  doi^  the  eultivuliou  of  the  market  gnrdciK 
round  London  or  Puris,  Indited,  these  far-famed  valleys 
are  market  gurdcns,  nothin^^  more,  iin<l  bounded  as  they  are 
t>y  hiirrcn,  naked,  cnlenriMUK  hiiU,  they  are  inferior  in  natural 
bv-Jiuty  to  any  of  the  apura  of  the  .\i\aM  ntngt^  in  Algeria, 
clothed  with  Ilex,  Thuja,  Muuntuiu  Ash,  Cytisitii,  Lenliseua, 
or  to  any  mountain  vale  in  Knj;land  in  summer  time.  In 
winter,  too,  ■«  many  ol  the  tree*— the  Fig,  tho  Mullierry, 
tlie  Apricot,  the  i'ome>;[nnatL',  the  Vine — are  deciduous, 
they  must  look  nearly  as  naked  and  desolate  as  vulleya  in 
old  Kn->b&d,  mure  so  tbun  our  conifer  clothed  dielricts. 

VALENCIA. 

Valencia  is  one  of  the  largest  cities  of  Spain,  with  a 
population  of  IU^,l)<i().  It  eo vers  a  large  area  of  ground, 
and  is  the  cenlrv  of  Spnish  civilization  on  the  eastera 
Diipst.  It  has  all  the  resounHii  of  a  great  city,  iuoluding 
Very  tolerable  hotels.     Although  the  winter  climate  ia  no 


L 


268 


SPAIN. 


doiit't  «xceptiDnallj  good,  it  oaiinnt,  hoirever,  be  cotM 
a  health  city.  TIte  Btri-eto  are  very  tuirruw,  mere  laiiee,  and 
the  hotels  are  all  situated,  for  oonveniencw,  in  the  wrr 
centre  of  the  town,  or  iit  the  mnall  ocnlrjil  s(|uuru)i.  They 
nre  hiiilt  and  miinaged  for  tlie  reception  of  couinenHal 
travellers,  and  of  tlio  tr.ivelliii^  piiblie  iu  geoeral,  not  Cur 
that  of  health  tourists,  who  ari>  not  wanted,  expected,  or 
pret>nred  fur,  Tlio  larpe  com  mr  rein  I  uilii.-*  of  thn  Cuntineut, 
Riieli  us  !{:irr(!]oi]u,  ViihriiL'iii,  Miilii>j;«,  MurMillefl,  Naples, 
may  be  compared  to  Dristo),  Liverpool,  Cilas)cow  in  Eng- 
land. They  are  not  health  cities,  but  racial  .ind  eoraiiiercial 
oentn-«,  iit  whieh  invalids  and  siuk  |ieO|)le  am  not  ihoiifcht 
of.  Health  towns,  audi  »»  Chi-lteiiltaRi,  Tiinhrid;;^  Wells, 
Toiqiiay,  Pan,  Nice,  and  Meiitone  do  nut  exi^l  iu  Sp.-(iit. 
Thus  allho(i>;h  ihu  ntntcr  climate  is  excellent  in  tonic  of 
tliexe  citie*,  r<-al  invaltdi(  ciinnnt  comlorlubly  »t  prudently 
remain  because  tWro  id  no  provbaion  for  them.  Then  tbis 
Rioe  ground*  round  Valencia  are  on  much  againnt  a  reaidcuoe 
in  tile  suburbs  aa  the  confined,  close,  atutl'y  streets  arc  at^atnst 
II  n^idcnee  in  the  interior  of  the  town.  Lod':in(^  Hii(;bt 
l>e  hud,  I  was  toltl,  on  the  FiomeondR,  the  Alaainda,  but 
IiDw  far  the  double  iuUuenc«  would  be  avoided,  and  how  far 
SpaniaU  lodgings  could  t>e  made  eomlortable,  1  tarinot  say. 

I  would  add,  that  as  xvfffud*  climate,  although  I  l>vlievtt 
lliat  the  winU-r  climate  of  Valencia  is  dry,  Hunity,  anil 
mild,  1  much  ijiieBtion  whether  it  preaenta  any  odvuuta)^ 
over  the  mnoh  more  aecessible  Uenoose  Hivier*.  liidoed, 
from  the  exain illation  of  the  vc-relation,  I  found  rvason  to 
oondiKle  that  the  winter  protection  from  north  wiiida  is 
Icn,  end  the  wintt^r  cold  (greater  ul  Valencia,  us  at  Muroia. 

Whilst  at  Viilencia  1  went  over  the  itolaiiiu  Garden 
oarefntly.  It  ajipcars  to  be  more  viewed  and  dinx-ted  as  a 
pkoaiirc  ganlen  than  iik  a  sciiiutitie  c>itnblii>hiiicnt,  hut  even 
aa  auob  wiu  intereitling.  The  plants  in  tlower  (.Muy  6} 
were  the  common  flowers  of  our  Knn^lish  cardens  fur  Jnne ' 
and  July;  Monthly  and  llL'ngal  Roses,  with  a  few  hybri<l 
and  Tea  Rocct,  Delphinium,  Antirrhinum,  IWris,  Iria, 
Stocks,  Silene,  Jaxminum  rovolntum,  RumtmHiluii,  ICsch- 
•el)olt»a,  Swc«t  William,  Poppies,  Verbenn,  Spira.M,  iiab- 
ruthomuuK,  I^uonics,  Nasturtium,  Piaka,  Aquilo|{ia,  Petunia, 


TAIXKCTA— THE  BOTANIC  OARDBN'8. 


269 


Csrniitioiw,  Collimia,  Vtlnirniim,  Convolviilug  minor,  Tri- 
ttiniit  cnx'nitt,  Oak*lcflvie(l  l'i'];ir^>iiium,  Vir(;iiiiiiii  Stixilf, 
Aiil>rietia,  lljilran(jt'a,  TliiTu  was  a  ^lawlioii^-,  much 
neKlectv^l,  in  wtiiuh  I  foiiiKJ  Bou>;ainvilleas,  Liintaiiaa, 
ViiK'HK,  Hvlivlnipc^,  Pelaraoniiimtt,  Cinomriiw,  Colcuo,  na 
Al  MtiixiU.  In  ttiia  glass-liouse  were  alt  the  Pnlmn,  and 
CvciMhiRw,  n-hicli  nra  f^wn  in  th«  open  air  on  the 
Gcnw»v  Itivit-m,  with  lli«  exception  of  numo  rbomirn>iw 
hiimilix  iiiid  Lutiiniu  Horhanica,  plunted  out  i'l  ii  wry 
tbelUrcd  spot.  Thos  it  conlnineil  Conrpha  Auftralis, 
Oaryota,  Dion  ciluir,  Thrinnx,  Cycug  revolutai  Cord)lin«ii, 
Dracwiiiif,  Yuci^us,  Kii-ua  repena,  iVrftikiii,  Ar.iliii,  Pbilo- 
dendron,  KuBwlia  juncca,  Cypcrus  altcrnif'i>liu.i.  Banana. 
There  wen  Abulilonx  and  Oleanders  in  the  ({ardun,  Imt 
not  in  flower.  It  ia  frata  the  above  facts  thai  I  feel 
uutliorixed  to  conclude,  that  the  wintiir  oold  is  t^n-ater 
at  Valencia  than  on  lh«  Itinera.  If  it  were  not  Bfi,  why 
should  plants  that  wc  can  cullivato  with  ease  iirthe  open 
air  be  placed  in  (;liui!(<li»ii>u-H,  uud  why  »Uo  i^hould  the  open 
gardens  Oonlaiu  Utile  eUe  hut  what  id  fvtind  in  the  gnrdena 
of  more  northern  European  ren^ons?  This  can  b«  easily 
uiideratood.  1'he  uni't  coast  of  Spain,  favoured  as  it  b  ta 
climate,  u  bounded,  nortli  and  wcat,  hy  bigli  mountaiiia, 
and  the  t^wns  of  Murcia,  Alicante,  Vali>noiu,  arc  at  soiae 
ditftatice  from  the  foot  of  tbeee  muuntuins — that  ix,  from 
Uieir  protection— M(o  th.it  the  cold  winds  fall  down  iipoa 
thcin.  The  Uenocse  Kivtcra,  on  the  contrary,  in  at  the 
very  foot  of  the  mountain  wall  that  protcctJt  it ;  and  the 
oold  winds,  passing  over,  leave  it  baakins;  in  the  south  sun. 
At  Valencia  and  in  this  n-gion  generally,  the  Lemon  tree 
ia  only  grown  exci^jitionally,  in  very  sheltered  and  warm 
■ittiatious,  althouf^h  in  such  localities  it  laoceedii  thoroughly. 
Ifowhere  did  I  Hud  it  grown  in  Urife  orchards  facing  the 
Bcs,  as  on  the  Hivicra,  between  Nicv  and  San  Itemo. 
Hiero  were  aome  large  timber  trees  in  tlic  gardt^n,  which 
^^  ore  often  met  with  on  the  promenades  in  these  regionit  of 
^B  Spain:  Puulownia  impcriulis,  with  elegant  blue  terminal 
^^  Bowers;  Oltts  auatralin,  a  large  beautiful  tree;  Diuspyrvs 
r  LutiiN,    Cratiegiis    meUnucarpu,    OWilKtbia    triueuutliof, 

I  Sophora  Japooii.«j  Sohinus  Mulli,  Melia  Aicedari^. 


1W  ^t  aw  dw,  Wl  «^  ■  tke  MM? 

I?     It  en  mmkw  W 

fl^  Asdd   >rT«^    tW  MMlB 

■aaOi  wwC  AtiMtie  wiadB,  brt  i^  4o  Mi  iW  Mrtb- 
.  «Weh  «n  n^uBf  wiada  »  wtaicr  a  tlw 
fWaA  »htAtrogluiiMlicf  minWAJgwii, 
ab»Ma||iMatotbcf«taacnrtar8«bi}  ItUakajF 
mtnamtomtmf  U  AlgerH  gnv  the  ker  to  :1m  ofBlv 
tat  b  tAjrflial  timfu^y. 

1  txrlicvc  that  time  aarth-^mAtdf  wiadl  nc  Mml^ 
wekaJ  io  W  tlw  tirat  Dnert  of  Sakan  beTnfe  tiKf  laek 
thi  Ipanyi  Aon.  Tttt  racvam  formad  b^  the  r^iajt  into 
tbi  appar  ntpom  of  moe  of  the  air  beatnl  bj  Um  aaa^ 
awAMof  tlw  (treat  Docrt  b  attctHled  nritb  ■  raah  of  atr 
frsM  tlw  MMlttcmwaan,  aocked  in  to  All  iu  place.  From 
whctowr  laarlm  tlia  wind  roiii«8,  when  it  mrhve  ttw 
•Mitlicni  fffxiittM  of  the  Mi-rlit«rrunran  it  feeb  tlw  ioflntaM 
of  til"  Afm-an  l)ami,  aud  nislM»  tmith,  briBgitig>  moiator 
to  Alicvria,  to  ibe  Atlas  moiintaini  and  vallevo,  and  leannl 
tl)«  aMUirti  ooaat  of  Spain  in  dry  calmnon.  Tbis  is  pro? 
imUy  Ihx  real  i>x|ilination  of  tfa«  calm  we  net  vrben  forty 
■hUm  from  lh«  ooait,  on  cromiiK  from  Orao,  and  not  tb« 
protaotiMi  of  Cft|M  dfl  Uata.  Tho  wind  tiiat  opposed  our 
|fO|fr«M  OH  l«aving  Uran  waa  riubing  down  to  Llio  D»crt, 


THE  CENTEAL  TABLELAND. 


271 


0  l«ll  it  behind  lu.  Thus  is  trxpUinod  o  ujririff  at 
Alicante  that  t)io  buy  \»  «o  hubiluiilly  c-ubn  tliut  it  is  • 
"woman's  an<l  cliild'a  eeu,"  a»  alio  the  f net  of  the  Mnr- 
Beilles  and  Alliens  steaniere  alwnya  evoking  ahclUir  on  the 
Spanislt  coiut  in  vtortos. 


W 


c 

k 


XALBVCU  to  COBDOTA  ontB  TUB  TAOI.BUND  OP  SPAlX. 


The  journey  from  Vnlvncin  to  Cordovi  by  rail  taken  th« 
traveller  inU>  tbn  mntra  of  S])Ain,  nnd  of  tlie  high  table- 
land (New  CAstile)  in  a  tretit^rly  dire<!t)on,  th«D  d^wccnds 
due  south,  oro«Me  tli«  Sierra  Morons,  and  follows  the  vativy 
of  the  Oaadalqutrir.  Kor  miiny  botire,  for  buodreds  of 
mile*,  the  line  crosses  the  monotonous  cdrareous  plains 
already  described,  treclcM  and  houselns,  with  no  cjittte  to 
enlit'eo  the  sc«nv.  Tlic  entire  region  seemed  eultivnted, 
but  half  or  two-lbinU  wan  biire  of  nil  crops,  tyin^f  fallow. 
Tliiii  is,  it  appears,  the  tjitaniah  nyatem  of  cullivntion,  as 
n-it)i  as  agea  ago.  The  land,  natumlly  pior,  with  ii  thin 
soil  lyinj;  on  acalcnrcous  base,  very  bke  the  chalk  downs 
and  fields  of  Wiltshire,  seldom  or  never  mniiured,  is  allowed 
to  lie  fallow  one  or  two  years  out  nf  throe,  nnd  thus  to 
recover  itself  by  the  unaided  elTorts  of  Natnre.  The  owner 
enpplioB  the  reed,  and  he  anil  the  tenant  divide  the  crop. 
So  in  the  years  of  drought  or  inaetivily,  is  there  is  do  rent 
paid  »r  receivoii,  tenant  and  landlord  both  gvl  on,  if  they 
can  only  keep  body  attil  t.nul  together.  Moreover,  they  both 
acem  to  l>e  quite-  Huti.illcd  if  this  can  be  accomplished,  and 
with  tlieir  abstemious  habits  very  little  autHciw. 

The  fact,  too,  of  the  entire  population  beinjj  Oj^^^gsted 
In  towns,  as  in  tJie  Middle  A^s,  when  men  had  to  unite 
for  mutual  protection,  at  a  diKtiinee  from  the  sent  of  their 
lalwurs,  is  a  very  (;reat  drawback,  a  national  one.  TIm 
nMQ,  with  their  xniithi^ni  fi-iir  nf  motsturc,  stay  from  work 
if  it  rains,  or  appcam  liki-ly  U>  rain,  for  f<iitivitie»,  for  aiijr  , 
vxeupe ;  the  women  gotimp  nil  day,  the  children  play  about 
in  the  streeU.  ThiiF  the  peasant  squanders  his  own  time, 
and  docs  not  ^ct  that  usHisUnce  from  his  family  which  ho 
doe*  when  they  all  live  in  the  centre  of  the  tivld  of  labour. 

No  cattle  are  seen,  and  very  few  are  kept  on  those  plains , 


272 


&PA1N. 


anil  t  was  I'M  tliat  the  vnliic  or  mannre  u  to  little  IcnAtrn 
Hint  the  peaHiintry  rt^nitv  |>a)-in^  lo  lake  it  auay  t'n>i»  the 
towns.  As  iDBv  he  supp(Mi?(I,  with  gtich  a  soil  anil  such 
vitwK  of  cultivHtion,  thv  risinf;  cropo  of  Mn-uls,  only  fmiti 
Iwo  to  Tour  ii)chi-a  hit^h,  vmm  very  ihin,  poor,  ■nil  miKC* 
Table,  oft'erinK  hut  little  |irDmi§e  for  the  future.  Uren  at 
Ihie  lii^h  clvvnttuii,  fvom  liUOU  to  2500,  or  SUOO  feet,  th«re 
hiid  IxTii  hut  Ittlltt  rain,  iind  ftirthvr  rain,  before  t]>u 
»UD)tn«r  licut  neta  in,  wa^  anxiously  expected.  As  ilrvady 
explained,  the  rainfall  from  the  vVllantie  winds  is  arrwtcd 
by  iht;  hi-;h  mount^iinB  on  thi;  wcMcrn  euiu^t  of  Spain  and 
of  Porttigsil,  nhitirl  the  easterly  windii  seem  sciiivcly  to 
reach  thia  region  of  Spain,  or  to  hrioe  no  min  with  tbero. 
The  dcfttniution  ot  the  limber  adds  no  douhl  U*  the  drou|*ht, 
U  trOM  arc  well  known  to  attTui:t  ruin,  in  ptainN  nn  wvU  ni 
OD  mountJiinB.  Att  to  temperature,  we  had  gone  bavk  to 
early  vVprit  in  Kn^fland,  and  the  cold  was  poEitivcly  bitter, 
very  trying  after  a  month  in  Algeria  and  south-oastetQ 
Spain,  There  was  not  the  veKtigc  of  u  iwutbera  climaU 
ill  the  aspect  of  Nature. 

Afl  Die  railway  descending  due  sontb  approaches  the 
Sierra  Morcna  mountains,  the  direction  of  which  is 
cast  and  u-i'Et,  l]ie  gralo^icnl  nature  of  the  »uil  change*. 
The  calrflTcouH  noil  and  melcs  are  replaced  by  a  xiliccoaa 
Boil,  hy  gvliittlii:  and  sandstone  rocks.  With  this  change 
of  Eoil  at  once  iii'pciirs  n  change  in  vegctatioa  The 
change  is  obwerved  both  norlli  und  aouth  of  the  Morenft 
mountains,  which  are  crossed  at  first  throu{(h  pieturciiqiM 
iforges,  and  then  liy  a  tunnel  nt  an  elevation  of  2tfU0  feet. 
The  familiar  FhrnlNi  of  tlic  Conicun  und  Atlas  granitie 
tandetonc  and  wvhittio  rangca  reappear.  The  Ci>tiui  or 
Rock  Rowe,  the  Broom — the  common  European  ibim  with* 
out  spin«>,  not  the  prickly  Broom  of  the  nboro  rvgions; 
Thuja  and  Juniper  Bushes,  the  Mnntimii  and  Alepfi 
Pines,  Myrtle,  LentiseoM,  Mountain  Lavender,  and 
tha  south  side  great  numbcrH  of  the  ChaDin.'rop8  huroiltl 
Palm.  The  T«mariBk  fringes  the  river  xidcs,  and  tl 
Oleander  is  often  Been  along  with  it.  Thus  in  Anttalusia 
ths  Tegetalion  of  Northern  Africa,  of  the  Atlas  rangw 
and  riveiB,  is  reproduced,  eopecially  along  the  course  of  the 


VAtXEY  OF  THK  GUADALQUIVUl. 


273 


Oiiiulalqiiivir,  and  mora  decidedk  tlmn  in  Coreicn,  where, 
M  tUtcd,  I  never  euw  tliv  Tumnnsk,  OkMtiitcr,  nor  Clinmif 
mps.  It  IB  tiiti-*iiliir  tliitt  thv  Chaiiiu.-ra[is  Palm  nlionld  lie 
deecriWil  sut  poi;uliiir  to  Algeria,  fur  in  tliis  [larl  uf  AiiiIn- 
liisiii  it  ill  att  common  as  Uor^  on  Eii^jlish  licitllis.  I  i4»\r 
tlii>n«uiidft  of  ocras  coii-reil  willi  Iliiw  tlwiirt'  P.ilm.  [•I'owi'iit 
luxiiri.iiitly  in  tufti*.  Ituliied  it.  i-vidinitly  iimim;;!!!!'*  ils-H' 
^[•oiiUiieoui'ly  wherever  the  soil  in  the  (iuadiil<juivir  vulle/ 
i«  too  poor  to  t«ropt  cultivutiim.  As  1  had  seen  it  likewise 
in  the  ba^^Uiu  euils  near  Curtliagcnu  and  Miirciii,  I  have  no 
i)oul>t  that  il  i^  to  lie  found  all  over  Southern  Spnin  iti 
silitiooiw  dintricty,  jmt  aa  in  AljTeria,  tvhcrii  it  disiip|ii>;ir« 
tbc  moment  the  »oil  Iwcomes  cak-areous.  Tliis  is  uuutht-r 
evidence  of  the  geological  anion  of  Africa  snd  Europe  in 
former  days. 

AlWr  passing  the  Sierra  Mitrena  the  line  dciicundii 
rapidl.Vi  and  soon  reaches  an  elevation  of  000  or  7UU  l'oi:t 
onlj*.  I'hvn  with  u  eouthem  exposnrc,  protection  from 
north  winds,  more  rain  than  on  the  eiwtrrn  coiut,  ai>d  a 
KU>dy  Mill,  vei^^^talioti  bi'conii'K  niii<-li  more  In&uriHiit  thiin 
on  Uio  etevatt^d  CL-iitnil  pluiri  thnt  we  had  just  k-ft.  i^lill  [ 
MW  Uothin^  to  warraut  iho  raptures  of  puets  and  triivflk-rs 
»b«0  describing  the  far  lamed  GuHOakjuivir  valley.  It 
sMnis  to  roe  that  thi-'C  rapture*  arc  ralher  thu  n-tinlt  of 
oomiwrison  with  burnmtidiiifr  nakedness  and  sterility  than 
of  any  actual  exubei-ant  fertility  of  the  valley  ilsell'. 
AllhoU(>h  tht-ru  is  a  gnod  f\<u:d  river  rulliti;;  iu  precious 
wat«-rK  in  the  midat  of  a  wide  and  level  plain,  there  is  no 
irritation.  This  at  Bret  pnezled  me,  for  the  eiilirc  region 
was  muny  Cfnturiee  in  the  hands  of  llic  Moor^,  who  urv 
the  peiiplu  who  made  and  esUhlisheil  the  irrii;ntion  works 
of  the  really  luxuriant  vulkya  of  Murcia,  Vaknein,  and 
Granada.  Indeed  Cordova,  uhieh,i&  built  on  the  river 
Ijiink,  was  the  centra,  the  capital  of  their  dominion.  Then 
it  on-urretl  to  me  that  it  may  be  of  but  little  uiie  to  irrigate 
a  )M>or  sandy  noil,  an  tliti  water  ronsl  alt  sink  llirtin^^h  it, 
and  do  no  good  commensnnite  with  the  expense  ineufrad. 
The  valleys  named  above,  where  such  extensive  inijj[atioii 
works  have  exivted  for  centnries,  and  when)  they  sWMre 
exubcnnt  fertility,  all  principally  rantaii)  lime  FoiU, 

T 


274 


SPAIN. 


Whcro  the  sandy  or  gnvelly  soil  Uiroitgti  whic-h  we 
pOMed  WM  cuttirnted,  the  eropa  wore  thiii  and  poor — iii' 
dtwd  u-rctchifl,  iind  thnt  tvitliout  tlio  excuse  of  altitiidv. 
Side  I>y  %\Ae  witii  thcue  cultiv»u>il  region*  iriTc  wide  moor- 
lands  covered  with  bush  Il«x,  Mounb^Jn  LavviidKr,  Hrooi 
ami  the  Chamscropg  Palm,  which  no  doubt  in  former  da_ 
•xt«»dcil  over  t\\«  i-ntiri-  ntgion,  and  yet  retnaiDO,  m  wo 
have  sei!U,  on  the  jioon'r  iincuUtvutcd  KoiU,  just  s»  Heatli 
and  Oorse  reinnin  with  un.  Still  the  country  had  a  vi-rdim 
pniiling  look.  In  the  vicinity  of  vilUi'^cs  and  towns,  j^vuo- 
rully  built  nciir  th«  livcr,  in  i'C};ion)>  wh«fv  the  alKivi 
eoil  is  deeper,  arc  urovc*  of  Oiivox,  Vifft,  P'-miffianat 
and  us  we  ncured  Cordova  nccnaionul  Fuliiu — the  Mucnir 
diictylircra — were  seen.  Tlie  hill-eides  in  llio  diatanw 
were  no  long4.-r  nuked,  hh  iti  tiiu  lime  re';ioni>,  but  clothed 
more  or  lesoi  with  Ill^x,  Cork  Unkc,  l*intu<.  tiid4».-<l,  poor, 
pandy,  gravelly  eoiis,  when  covered  with  very  littlo  vegC' 
table  sail,  are  everywhere,  even  in  dry,  warm  ciimatei, 
more  verdant,  more  luxuriant  with  their  peculiar  vegeta- 
tion than  lime  rockt.  hillx,  or  eoilii  under  the  mine  eundi- 
tioDH.  'rb«  vc^et^ttoii  tliut  dotho  iheite  HoiU  beurv  dnni^ht 
better,  also,  than  that  which  lives  in  rivh  alluvial  soils, 
cspi'dnlly  tvhen  they  rcet  on  clay.  The  reJieon  is  no  dotibl 
that  in  Bandy,  gravelly  eoilK  the  root:^  of  ihi-  plants,  •hrtibs, 
and  trecK  can  go  down  all  but  any  di^laoee  in  scaroh  of 
motsturi!  and  find  it,  whereas  on  lime  soils  and  rocks, or  oi 
clnys,  when  they  raioh  the  suImmiI  tlii-y  (top  fhort,  am 
have  to  depend  pnly  for  nouriKhmont  and  moisture  on  what 
they  find  above. 

Thus  1  remember,  in  the  very  dry  summer  of  1808, 
beiii}?  very  tnnoh  struck  by  the  dilfercnci'  belwcen  the  staf" 
of  the  vefj<-latio»  of  Surrey  and  Middii->4-x.     In  Sum 
where  my  ccmntry  residence  i»  Hiltiiiled,  and  where  much  of 
the  toil  is  sand  or  gravel,  the  Weymouth  l*ioeti.  Spn 
Firs,  Scotch  Mrs,  Bireb,  lleecli,  ()iik».  CluTtri'ita,  Ili-ii'lici 
vrero  ptrtcclly  heiilthy  and  grvt-n  in  Auguvt,  after  th 
ironth*'  drciii'tiit.     There  was  no  pereepttWo  differenci*  as 
eoinpurcd  with  otWr  years.     Jtnl  uhcn  1  cr<,>i-e<l  tiiu  ri 
into  Middk«i-x,  on  the  rich  alhivtal  i^ntbt  1/inj;  on  uUy, 
found  n  tvlnlly  dillvrent  ttiitc  of  things.    Tlie  ground 


ic-      ' 

■ialj 


COKIMVA   AND  SKVILLE. 


275 


pAroliM] — till  hat  n-iliiwJ  to  hay,  nnd 

^_ B^larill|t  tlieir  lutivca  b.4  in  Kovcinbur.     Anothf 

reason  may  posBililjr  be  adduced,  as  my  ^deii«r  au^gesttidn 
Otir  Siirruy  plaiiU  ara  liku  poor  poopl«',  auciistoinod  to  poaf^ 
fiire,  so  when  a  rauiine  Gomes  they  l>G;ir  jirivalion  hi-ttttr 
tb^in   th^ir   richer   Middlesex   Dci^^hbuurii,   aouustomed  t<t 
A  ridii;r  mid  l>utlLT  di<:Uiiy. 


^ 


CORDOVl   AMD   BEVILLK. 

At  Cordova  nad  at  Svviile,  both  on  tlic  Giiadnlquivir 
river,  littitudo  37%  the  flume  elim^te  ntid  vufjiautivc  woii- 
dttioiM  appear  to  prevail  as  on  the  soutlt-eaut  coast.  Thu 
D<te  Palm  is  e<en  hero  and  thcro,  grown  for  ornament, 
not  for  fruit,  which  do  doubt  dnes  not  ripen.  Omn^ 
treeti  grciw  xiilendidly  in  courtyards  tind  gardens,  prcilectcd 
by  hiuh  watls  Tram  the  north  wiiulii,  a»  in  the  court- 
ard  m  the  catbedral  and  in  the  ^anlen^  of  the  Alcazar  at 

viDo;  but  they  »tv  nnt  R-en,  as   i:  >      m    o|K<n,  unpro. 

cted  tpaccs,  ejipuaed  to  the  north,  in  mi.  ^'iililic  garik-n«, 
vriiich  ure  numeroiu,  I  found  (Muy  II),  tlie  i;umi»on 
garden  tlowers  eo  often  enumerated,  about  six  weelis  earlier 
than  in  the  north  of  Europe  j  but  tliurt:  wns  vt-ry  lilllc,  if 
any,  evidence  of  immunity  from  vM  tiiglits  iiivd  uold  windit 
in  winter.  There  were  Uenpid,  munlhiy,  and  common 
while  Itti«ee,  but  (cw  hybtidK  or  Tcn«,  Dulpliiniums,  Ilidiy- 
liocks,  Verbena*,  I'hlux,  Fuliu-^^niumv,  Ar|uilcj;ia,  Ijilies, 
CamalJona,  Thluipi,  t^wctl  Willtiiii),  but  »o  LiUilanns, 
Abutiloiks,  Daturas,  \Vi^aiidia<^,  and  winter  Salviaii.  Tlit^^e 
ffordens,  liowever,  iinul  be  nmrly  as  nabod  to  winter  us  our 
own,  or  more  xo,  us  the  troM  gnven  aic  nearly  ull 
di-i-iduouH,  meant  for  summer  sluule.  Clearly,  the  inhabit 
tantd  of  tbero  rcgioDs  accept  the  winter  as  winter,  and 
have  no  idea  of  deceiving  Uie  eye,  no  wish  to  c«ca|>u  from 
iu  inlluenve  un  Ihelundnenpo  by  pliiutini^  evi^r^^reens.  The 
very  summer-like  look  even  of  the  Uenoeee  Uivien  w 
nwin^  (o  the  fact  that  UiB  eomplctu  protevlion  from 
northerly  n-inda  a<lmitK  of  at  couthent  evergreen  ve^>tiition 
—Olive,  liomon,  Urauge  trees — whieb  exiula  all  but  atone. 

Thftre  was  much  to  eee,  mneb  to  enjoy  in  these  tivc 
t2 


276 


8PAIK. 


yieat  cities,  Init  T   m<i*t   leave   the  description   of 
chorme  to   |ili-iuiir<;   touriKti°.      Aly   IniBiness   n-as   merely 
III  linil  i^iit  by   iiolual   ciliw'^rrHtiai),  by   tliv  niiiilyi;i«  of  tT 
vcuelutiou,  liow  far  they  are  fit  to  be  RcliNrted  a*  u  win 
I'eattleDoe   liy  contirmml  invalids.      Viewed  in  tliia  li^i 
tlie  venlicl,  with<Hit  iiny  liexttntjon,  is  nuravnuraUe.     For 
l>i;r>oii)(  xli^litly  out  ot  health,  who  ninh  to  muiio  Away  m 
winti-r  ill  a  southiTti  land,  in  tlie  mid^t  ol'  the  menioriea  of 
fiirmer  dny*,  and  who  arc  (lUposcil  to  select  «f  the  ohjeot  oT 
tlivir  ftiidipa   and    ineditnliuna   the   Alooni   nml   Saracons 
o(  OKI  Spain,  their  tnonumenbi,  their  habits  »nd  ciuloma, 
which  furvivo  to  tJiis  dny,  Cordova  or  Seville  will  do  Vi 
well,  and  will  rcivard  the  fiitigticit  of  the  jounioy.     Then 
immunity   fioni  actual  cold  wciither,  much  sunshine,  aoil 
the  novelty  of  Spanish  life  aud  ways,  in  addition  to 
i;lamoiir  of  the  pnnt. 

I'he  real  invalid,  however,  iiitunt  on  finding  the 
winter  climate  he  win,  in  onier  to  cucape  from  seven  Btrf? 
tci'in^r,  or  to  save  tile,  can  d»  much  Ix^ttcr.  All  the  dis- 
advantages enumerated  aa  pertaining  to  Valencia  and 
Muioia,  are  equally  nfc  at  Seville.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
the  hoti-ls  an;  ail  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  the  weather 
niuKl  be  oHen  cool,  not  to  aay  cold,  and  n  conMdenible 
iiniount  ol'  rain  falls  in  the  course  of  the  winter,  owing 
Lo  proximity  to  the  AlUntie.  lloth  Cordova  and  Seville 
are  in  tlu!  plainlike  valley  of  the  Guadal(|iiiv>r,  which 
throws  itself  into  Uie  stormy  AtLintio  Ooeao  a  little  to,,^ 
the  {«uth-we«t.  J^| 

None  of  the  txiwna  of  the  south  or  Moorisli  region  of^ 
Spain  present  any  grandeur,  nMythiii|r  worthy  of  notice  in 
an  aTCliitcetural  (loint  of  view,  with  the  exception  of  their 
ciilhcdialK.  That  of  Cordova  is  a  magnificent  Aloori»h 
inoccjiie,  Htill  prcsiMilini;  eleven  hundn'd  Saracenic  column^ 
although  two  hundtt-d  weie  detitroyed,  with  very  bad  taste, 
tinder  Charles  V.,  to  make  way  for  a  Uothic  addition,  a  nave, 
wry  grand  iu  its  proportionn,  bnt  sadly  out  of  barmoni| 
with  the  moatiue  to  which  it  wan  dovctaiU-d.  The  Sevilfl 
eiithcdral  is  one  of  the  ni<'st  magnificent  monumeo'ii 
of  (Jothic  architecture  that  1  hiivo  ever  seen,  IVom  th<; 
immeni^  height  of  the  eulunins  and  of  tlie  roof  which  the* 


THE  CORDOVA  AND  SEVU.LK  CATUEDEALS.      277 


I 


support.     The   Alcaxar,  or   the  remains  of  the   Moorioh 
Poluec,  U  worthy  Drall  prniM  »n(l  admirntion. 

The  luwiiii  tliem.4i<lvi;!i,  on  tim  contrary,  nre  mean  in  IUl- 
extreme.  They  are  camiwsed  of  small,  whilewaslieJ,  two- 
storied  hoiisos,  enclo>«e<l  in  tortuous  streets  from  ten  U> 
litlocit  foot  wide.  Mtwl  of  thcM  slrvet*  nrv  quite  inaeocMible 
to  a  carriage,  aod  Id  tlioae  that  are  so  u»ed,  two  oarriftgee 
ean  only  pass  each  other  at  foot's-pace. 

Owing  to  the  diminutive  size  of  the  dwelHng-hoiHes, 
ftnd  to  the  narrowneiw  and  iii>'i';iiili<Mitir.(*  nl'  llio  Klrivts,  the 
grandeur  and  at^itelinen  of  the  Seville  citlhedrul,  produced, 
Bs  did  thnt  of  Murcia,  a  peculiar  impression  on  my  mind. 
It  would  soem  as  if  the  town,  with  its  human  inhiibttauis, 
hiid  been  nothinj^,  whilst  religion  und  thv  churvli  hiul  been 
everything,  towerintr  as  the  lalier  doee  immeasurably  above 
Immunity.  No  doubt  this  was  the  impression  meant  to  be 
eoineyed,  and  who  would  4I0  otherwise  tbua  tckuowlMlge, 
with  humility  and  rcvercnev,  the  eorrcctnew  of  the  anti- 
thesis, bad  the  religion  of  those  who  created  these  magniii* 
cent  temples  cast  a  truly  Christian  mantle  over  tho  country. 
Uufortiuintely,  it  wao  not  so  at  Seville.  Whilxl  guxing 
on  the  (jrand  Ciitiiedrut  it  i*  impossible  not  to  recollect  the 
gloomy  raiiulicism  tliat  i^-iyotd  in  it«  walls  for  centurii-H, 
unUi-r  the  cloak  of  rL'li}>ion.  The  borriiite  tyr.inny  of  the 
Inipiihilioii,  Uie  terrible  human  KncritivuK  thai  btooilthiKty 
inslittitioi)  puriodioally  demnndeil,  with  iVf  freiiuent  "aut«- 
da-(c,"  and  its  dungeons  tilled  witJiviulims  during  centuries 
of  opprewion,  all  rose  bodily  before  me.  In  no  part  of  Spain 
were  greater  horrom  pi;r|H;tmted  under  tho  maoK  of  religion. 
This  gloomy  religious  tyninny  dwarfed  the  intellect  of  the 
Sjiantsh  nation,  uciitroyed  its  national  jirosperity,  and  made 
it  what  it  iK  at  pnsent',  a  mere  shadow  of  the  paid.  Now 
that  ihese  ahat-klc*  have  boeD  cust  olf  Utr  ever,  now  that 
mental  as  well  as  politiunl  freedom  has  been  attaiued,  we 
may  hope  that  a  glorious  future  is  opening  out  fur  Spain  as 
well  lui  for  Italj'.  As  Wordsworth  iruly  says  in  the  vent* 
4uutcd  at  the  head  of  this  chapter,  there  are  FonUTS  of 
men,  g«od  and  true,  yet  to  be  found  in  Spain.  The  nntiuu 
is  sound  at  the  core,  and,  onoe  Irced  from  the  trammels  of 
«up<ir»titioii,  ignonnoe,  and  bad  government,  will  uo  doiitit 


■278 


Sl'AlS. 


rise  in  the  eosl^  of  humaiiily,  and  again  aseuin«  its 
iimon^  niiit(ini=,  liut  tiinu  if  rnjuircil. 

The  SjiHiiiiirds  htc  a  ruct-  ni  nniiiitLaiiicers,  liartly,  sober, 
iiliatemiotisi,  enduring  ol'  futigue,  kind,  and  cUeerlul.  Thejr 
have  only  been  too  true  to  their  eel^eh,  ranaticnl  rulers, 
who  have  coiistnnlly  led  them  to deuth  in  a  had  ghukc, liHVtt" 
i'oniit4intly  triidedon  their  xinijile-mindod  devotion  wid  atPec^J 
tion  to  rtli^iun  aiul  to  tlie  kini;.  By  supiKirtiii:;  a  corrupt 
t^ourt  for  many  ycnra,  the  cler;;y  have  tost  their  hold  on  the 
iTK|iec[  of  tlif  niitimi,  and  h«v«  liillun  with  the  court,  and 
that  intixt.  defervedlv. 

Nearly  all  the  best  houses  are  built  on  the  Mooriiih 
model,  »g  at  Algiers.  They  have  «  ociiti-ul  court  or 
:^idvn,  wlii<d)  IK  often  adL>rned  by  A  roiinlnin  us  well 
us  hv  Jlow«i-s.  The  life  of  tlio  family  is  centred  in  and 
around  this  court,  or  interior  K'"'t^'^n'  I"  summer,  an 
unnin^  i«  drawn  ov«r  from  ulnive,  ond  it  beoontes  l4w 
ganrrAl  citlini^-rortm  during  the  hut  tvoather. 

We  received  the  ^rL'ateiit  kindnetu  and  civility  from  Mi 
r1u8^e«  of  SpaiiiArda,  hoth  in  tJio  towns  and  on  the  roadfl.f 
All  we  met  Bcemed  to  viv  with  raeh  other  to  httip  us  on.' 
\^'e  wore  more  especially  dtntelc  with  lhi»  cctTxIia)  civiUtji 
ill  S(-viIte.     0»in^  to  the  tortuous  nondesGript  chanctcr  of 
the  eli'eets,  yt'  generally  lost  our  way  nhcn  we  went  oat' 
without  an  interpreter,  and  all  but  invariably  iho  tir«t  porson 
of  \vliom  we  iiiiked   the  rond  volunt<x'red  to  take  il<<  home. 
On  one  aftenioon,  I  and  my  Irieiids,  thive  in  tjumber,  all 
went  oul  Repiiral'.'ly  ;  we  all  four  lost  Otir  way,  and  we  wer« 
all  jour  brought  Imck  to  the  hotel  by  fourdiBcrc-nt  persons, 
the  first  to  wliom  tv«  appealed. 

UALAOA. 

From  Seville  I  took  the  railway  to  Malaga.  The  line 
paesw  in  a  south -cii>-t<'rly  direction  aeron  aome  hilly  fertile 
plains,  then  ascending  thr(>ui>h  a  mount^iinous  dialricl, 
piercca  the  Sierra  Nevada  by  a  series  of  deep  cuttin^fa  and 
tuuncU.  On  emerging,  it  descends  rapidly  into  a  eultlvau-d 
phiin,  at  the  edge  of  nhieh,  nn  tlio  tnuthern  coa»t  of  Spain, 
IS  Malaga. 

I  was  much  disappointed  with  much  vaunted  ^lataga. 


HALAUA.  27i> 

It  ii:  a  clove,  confined  Spanifli  nommorml  senport,  mtli 
110,1)00  itilialiitanU  packed  iiitn  u  very  ^lunW  uri-ii,  lUvi 
slreeU  being  from  liv«  to  ttn  fuel  widu  utiK.  Tin,'  Jiorl  i* 
dirty,  the  felion.-  t'ontiiminat4.'<l  with  all  kinds  of  filtli,  U>tlt 
insiilo  llto  t«n»  and  (iir  B'>iih'  diKtinicc  from  il.  The  hotels 
una  ••l<H»my  anddin^',  and  xiliiatcd  on  n  niiM>ral>lt'  prumuniKk' 
— Iliw  only  one  in  tli«  town.  This,  the  AUm«dn,  in  merely 
SOU  yards  long  by  forty  liroad,  jilaiited  with  double  rows 
of  cliabhy  (liH-idnouK  (rci-<t,  Kim,  Acacia,  SopliorH  Ja|>onic«, 
Mcliu  Aiu-darach  ami  itmall  i'lancv,  mo  that  ill  n-intcr  it  mtist 
\m  c|i]lti-  nJiked.  Tliere  are  some  noanlcM  bnnta,  and  niiy 
■autnlior  of  mcndicanle  and  ^utt«r  children.  Tliia  la  the 
rt,  iIk- Kiib<-c,  of  tbe  jwor  invalids  oondvmtivd  for  tlieir 
cini'  to  wint-^r  bure. 
I  Tlio  only  real  oanJeo  wiUiin  three  milea  of  the  ton-n  i*  tbv 

I  EngUtih  ccnMttcry,  on  n  buriit-up  hilUside,  where  even  lite 
^H.l*cUr<^i<niunH  bad  scHrevly  any  folin-^,  o>vin^  1o  the  lon^; 
^Hdntught,  incrvly  a  few  terminal  Icavcit  and  Hunci-i;.  Hcve 
^■Ht  luxt  there  really  wa»  the  evidence  of  n  very  mild  fiuiithcru 
^■winter,  eiiob  as  n-e  have  at  Meutone,  in  the  in'o-xinui:  of 
r  Lantana,  ltoii<;uiiiviltca,  Carouba,  ScbinusMulli,  ileliotrojx;, 
I  Aloti.  But  till-  cvidenci'  of  cxi.-C|it4on)d  MintcrmildncnwuH 
I  atill  Hioro  marked  in  a  garden  belonging  to  au  Aniirrican 
Inerchnnl,  about  lliree  miles  from  tUe  town,  at  tbo  buso  wJ' 
the  monnlaiiiit  wbii-b,  rising  due  ni^rtb  behind  Malaga  to 
a  bei^bl  of  itOOO  fcet,  [iroicet  it  thoroughly  from  northerly 
winds.  Here  I  fouud,  in  full  flower.  Euphorbia  jiwqiiiDi- 
tlMia.  Itutwliajiiiicfs,  Lanlanae,  Abutdona,  llol'rotlianiliiiN, 
Salvjji  )lorniiniim,  giwnenrfloR),  13ouvai-diu  tlava,  Erytbriim 
rmla  gulli  (Coral  tree),  (iaillardiu,  PittoF]iern)uni ;  indeed, 
the  Bftine  winter  flowera  and  vegetation  a»  at  Iklentonc.  I 
may  add  tluit  Malaga  is  the  only  place  in  Algeria  or  Spain 
when  I  fi>und  the  nnmc  cvidcuLv  of  winter  mildneoe  or 
entire  immunity  fnim  front  u»  on  the  Ocnoi-Ki^  Hivicra  from 
Nice  to  8a n  Itcmo.  The  winter  climate  of  Malaga  must 
present  (be  «anii- exceptional  mildness,  but  the  Nociul  owl 
sanilarj  cumdilioiix  ore  vili',  ro  liad  as  entirely  to  neulndixe 
the  clinialtf  advantages;  unlexs  vue  could  have  the  ootinlry 
house  I  saw,  or  a  Nimilar  one,  milea  from  the  town,  at  the 
base  of  the  ravine  or  gorge  by  wliicb  Malaga  is  rrailiecl  by 


280 


SPAIN, 


rail.     Tn  defeeBilinj;  thntu^fh  this  valtej-,  I  saw  reiy  Riil 
Orange  trew. 

Such  Icing^  tho  ca^e,  tlic  climato  of  Malni^  Ih-ui^, 
|)n>vc'i3  by  ila  wjj«t«tioii,  exueptioiiully  mild  uml  tin-,  witli-^ 
'•111  losing  the  braotng  character  th^t  oertmiif  to  nil  "dry" 
liun^peiiit  cliraalea  in  winter,  it  would  eeem  that  the  ea- 
coniiLim^  confcrrud   iiprjn  it    liy  miiny  wrttore  are  jnstili«d.l 
And   eo  llK'y  wnnlil  U-   if  MiiU'ia  wurc  ii   hc.ilthy  cily,  or^ 
were  thure  Iie-iltliy  mibiirbau  reftidi'iicwi  or  hott'l:!,  in 
eitiialiona,  in  which  invalida  coidd  reside. 

Unfortntiatcly,  however,  none  of  theeo  conditions 
renlincd.     Th«  city  18  nitimtt-d  on  a  sutndy  pUin  tin  ii  deu 
level,  its  Rtreets  are  even  niirrciw«r  and  dosor  than  thmi-  »f' 
Seville  or  Valencia,  and  it«  eanitai?  condili'm  is  dt-eidi^dly 
worse.     It  mny  Iw  thought  tliut  «  mere  Hying  vi*iil  does 
not  entitle  mi  la  njniik  ho  aiilhiintii lively  on  the  utilijeet,  »0 
I  will  quole  other  data. 

'I'lienc  have  Wn  five  irpidemies  of  cholera  at  Mala^^sinc 
1S3£,  when  U  firal  appLiived  in  Europe,  nnd  aone  of  the 
<luti8e«t  and  mont  nnhealtliy  eenlre*  of  Enrvpeiin  popiitntion 
linvv  been  more  al11ict«d.  It  is  a  well-known  fm-t  thati 
'■Itnlera  haa  constanlly  chosen  the  most  populated  and  most 
unhealthy  cities  in  which  to  cxercieo  ile  rnvii<;cn,  and  the 
Tact  of  five  epidcniiot  of  cholera  havintf  oeuurred  in  any 
Ido.ility  during  the  thirty-iteven  yearn  that  have  clajs 
since  it  first  appeared  lo  Europe  must  be  fatal  to  a  iwpu 
Idtion  for  RnluWity. 

I  would,  aluo,  refer  my  readera  to  the  inoxt  recent  writcr 
"n  the  climate  of  .Mahi^ra,  Dr.  -More  Madden,  in  hia  p«m« 
phlet  entitled  "  The  Climate  of  Malaga  in  the  Treatment 
of  Chrvmiu  Pulmonary  Piscasu.  Onhlin,  lH65."  At 
page  IS  Dr.  Madden  aay»  very  {^phieally  and  ea 
plicitly : — 

'*  Toe  hygienic  condition  of  Malnt>*  is  as  dcfoclivo  as  it 
ciin  well  be.  In  a  great  many  of  the  houtie«  there  ia  nc 
prnvinion  for  xewage  of  any  kind;  and  even  in  the  moro 
civiltxed  )>urt  of  the  city,  in  the  hoteb  on  the  AUmeda,  the 
drainagfe  is  very  bad  indeed.  The  main  wwers,  wliieh 
run  under  the  princijuil  ittrcetfi,  are  choked  up  by  th«  do- 
compMing  aecumnlation  of  yeunt,  and  bi;ing  provided  with  I 


TUK   UNUEALTHIKE8S  OF  MALAGA. 


281 


irnmonM  sqtuiro  opciiiniTS,  throif^h  which  tho  <]irt  ntid 
riibbUh  uru  thrown  inlo  ihcm,  in  tliii  cvtittru  o(  the  Htreeta, 
the  mopbitio  ft»»ea  evolved  be\>i\v  freely  eaca[>e  into  the 
atmosphere  of  the  narrow  lanes  of  the  city.  The  bol  of  the 
(>iiiuliilini.-<lmii  ix  really  tho  mnin  softer  of  MaW^n ;  and  i)»- 
r»r  nearly  ten  inontlu  annually  it  bi  libtk*  mure  than  a  wide 
dry  bed  of  gravel,  buin^  de[ii!'iident  on  the  torrents  ia  winter 
for  its  purifiGntion,  the  odour  it  exhales  in  warm  w<»itltcr 
renilvrs  a  residvnco  ncjir  it  as  di»i^rDcablc  m  it  U  mi- 
licalthy. 

"  The  oannexion  between  epitlemie  di.teiue  and  bad  sewage 
is,  I  think,  very  well  illustrated  in  Mala^^n,  n-liich  has  at  all ; 
limes  been  remarkable  fur  ilia  prevalence  of  zymotic  tliMiiuu. 
I    have  oollcoled   from  the  older  S|>iinti>li  writeni  notiee^  of 
no  less  than  tweuty-two  epidemio  ]>cHttlenee!i,  some  of  which 
utmost  <lepopiiIat«d  the  city,  between  l-Wi  and  1804^.    The 
ntrlier  of  tlieMe  iieem  to  havi;  been  t-pidomics  of  u;<^tiiitne 
Orieiitid  plague,  xnd  the  latter  jr«>ticrully  asMumed  the  form 
of  yellow  fever.   Of  bte  years,  ainee  H31,  these  pe8tileaoe»| 
have  not  ap|H>an-d,  but  Mioii'  pluee  has  been  taken  l>y  Asiatic  ' 
oholrra,  whti-li  ha«  several  tiinwi  ravaged  the  town," 

'rim  dlxive  uoHt  inviting  deacription  uf  Mnlaj^a  Ln  written 
by  the  author  of  a  recent  work  ou  climate,  who,  alter  tra* 
veiling  all  over  Kiirope  to  find  the  best  winter  »nit(irium 
for  the  coniiumptive,  hiu  li\ed  on  thiir  mo»t  niilnbrirHM  lon-ii 
as  the  sought<for  Eldorado.  So  that  thin  ehusen  Kuiopeiiu 
A'liifat,  in  fui'tuer  and  present  times,  ol  tho  pla;;iie,  yellow 
fever  and  ehuler.t,  in  to  be  Hi-luvlcd  to  restore  tlip  health  i>f 
our  poor  oiiuiitrymen  und  women,  already  dvbiliuicd  by 
diwuM,  Oiinslilutionally  broken  down,  and  a  prey  to  un 
organic  mulady. 

Surely,  as  I  hav«  repeatedly  ulatud,  it  is  mer«  wanton 
triSini;  with  hnman  life  to  »end  aiieh  nuiri-n-ra,  with  a  view 
to  the  recovery  of  their  health,  to  wiiitur  in  liirge,  ouliealthy 
ibinth'-rn  Iowmd  like  Itome,  Niipk-o,  and  MaJa^tt,  fooi  of 
malari.i  and  of  epidemie  and  /.ymolio  dbteuNM.  Xheti  not 
the  simplest  common  sensu  tell  us  that  invalids,  with  lli« 
seeds  uf  death  in  them,  should  not  be  located  for  months 
in  the  contrv  of  towns  whertt  even  the  healthy  oaiinot  live, 
and  die   annually  at   the   lAto  of  thirty  or  more  in   the 


282 


BPAJK. 


thousand?  Siiicnlui'l)'  enoiipli,  1  lielii>\'c  I  am  the 
utid  as  yi^  tiir  onlv  wriler  on  i^limiiti.',  w)io  liiiii  ri'(^<>2<ii"(!< 
tind  fori-ibly  iitiiii^leil  <iii  tlie  alKimporUtnt  itnil  9e1l-(^vi<li'iit 
("net  that  oonaumptive  palietiU  fliould  reside,  wiiitiT  imt 
Slimmer,  in  Kntrland  or  ul>rua<l,  wlicrc  tlu'y  cnn  lire^tix 
puie  iiir  ni;;ht  iind  lUv^Uiiit  in,  in  the  wMinlry,  in  hwilthj 
villagpK,  ill  tho  lioitlthy  oiilekirln  of  lowns.  Tli«ir  hreattiio^ 
pure  ail'  is  of  inlinitely  more  importauce  than  a  lew  de^^rees 
orteniperuture  more  or  lc«s,  or  a  liltlo  more  or  Ufft  prot«e* 
lion  li'iim  tliit-  or  ihut  wliiil.  A  faei  ko  coiiitnnant  willt 
niixlorii  jihyxioIoL')'  i^ud  putholo^  ha*  only  to  be  brought 
forward  to  he  universally  acknowledpred,  and  the  time  if 
near  whL-n  tnvdionl  men  nill  wondirr  liovr  tlit-y  could  cvei 
lliiiik  of  i!oo)iiii>^  lip  tht'ir  puticDtM  in  unhMillliy  bouUiiyi 
towns  fur  the  sake  of  warmth,  which  they  do  not  get 
llutter  fur  that  they  should  slay  nt  home  than  purchns 
t*xt-mp1tiin  fmrn  tin-  cold  of  our  (.•limati-s  hy  l-xp<i»iirti  to 
liysk'iiii'  conditioncwIiKh  produci.',  os  a  mntt«r  of  cottrw,  in^ 
auccM*iv«  (rencraUotui,  phigue,  yellow  fever,  and  eholurw. 

Guided  by  what  1  saw  myself,  and  by  what  Dr.  Mop 
Mnddtrn  and  others  tell  us,  ns  uhove,  1  eonsider  I  am  yvf 
fi-i'tly  wHiiiint^l  in  mlviiinsj  the  midteal  j>ro!W»ioi»  lo  utrik*" 
iMuhiicm  out  of  the  list  of  wintt^r  renorU'  for  invulids  I'ur  thu 
present,  DotwithslandinE>!  its  rtiitty   ^nml   elimate.      Whciii 
hoteln  niid   villus,  comMning  ihe  i-e'pnremrnts  of  Kngli«l 
invulidx,  hiive  brt-u  bnllt  sointt  iniU-t)  out  ul  lb*!  town,  at  Um 
base  of  the  hills,  whei-e  tbewctillhy  Mub^a  inerebanlal 
<«t»hlisli4.-d  tbeir  country  rceidenees,  and  when  the  stat*  of 
tlie  country  renders  it  tuifv  to  inliiibit  tbrm,  thfii,  and  th«nj 
only,  will  it  he  prudent  lor  invalids  to  wioler  at  Malugn, 


■AiaoA  TO  ghanada. 

Wc  started  for  Gmniida  at  rix  o'clock  in  the  moniinf 
in  a   kind  of  onv-Lodicd  omuibuM  r\nffi  drawn   by  ei|jtlij 
mulee,  and  at  uncc  struck   the  mountain  to  the  north-ens 
«l  iHc  foot  of  which  Mala(;a  is  situated.     Ilie  rond  wound' 
up  the  south  eidiw  of  the  mountain  for  ibicv  h«um,  giving 
us  a   splendid   view  of  the  city,  which   seemed   to  liav  ' 


MALAGA  TO  URANADA. 


283 


Oi]  itself  nraund  the  largo  oatlicdral,  oa  one  side  oft 
iangillar  pluia,  iKiuntled  by  mminUint  nn<l  llic  wn. 
ThetK  Diimntaina  are  ecnialic  in  Ibniuition,  frialilo,  and. 
water-worn  into  innumerable  etij^dr-Ioaf  cones,  tlie  t^iiles  at 
WtSivh  nrc  criTywlitTc  plantud  with  Vjik'=.     I'hf  Viiiw  are 
cut  down  to  tite  Ktn[np»  annually,  and  ut  tlici  tiiiiL-  of  my 
viait  {.May  11)  werejml  sprouting,  ao  tbiit  the  bill-sides,  at 
a  difttanoe,  seemed  uovercd  with  Grass.    Tbe  Vinu-cliid  hilla  ^ 
Bpokc  of  a  ripli  wine  country.     The  l«»t  iviMnx  iiIm  comai 
fnini  Miilng-j,  and  are  )>re[iitri-d  from  aniiHealtrl  grap<»  wbiclt 
ii*  (fruwn  on  thwe  innniitAin  slopes.     Luiidon  alonu  receives 
H,OllO    tons    yt-Mrly.      As    wo   ascended,    the    Chamairops 
linmili",  the  GvniKia,  ('vliMia,  and    Minintain   Liiv<.-n(lcr, 
ahowed   themselves  as   uaual.      We  led  the  tbermoroet«r] 
If  lit  niKlit,  7S'  in  t)iu  dny,  at  Mida^a,  lo  find  it  three 
hours  later,  at  un  devatioii  of  .^0(10  feet,  only  o^'  at  nine 
o'L-lo4:k,  with  a  cold  wind.     Ilex,  Cork  Oak,  oereaU,  and. 
Vines  occupied  the  bill-aides,  until  wo  descended  to  lime> ' 
stone  rocks  and  soil,  where  the  Olive,  Fig,  Caroubti,  AIiiU 
terry,  reappeared,  with  hixurinnt  yrwund  crops,  and  h>riir 
wat*r   Lomburdy   Poplun,   Wbit«   Poplars,  and   Willnwa. 
Thifl   ia  tbe  eliaraeter  of  the   luxuriant  irrii^ted  valley 
HDund  tiranadu,  llie  renowned  "  Vetpi,"  which  repi-at«  at 
an  cli-vuti'in  iif  nhont  200U  t'cel  the  fi-rlility  ol'  thu  Miireiun 
and  Vxlenetan  lime  valleys.    There  is  more  yenerid  verdure, 
however,  lor  it  reuUy  d<>i>K  rain  in  tlie  province  ol'  Grauuda, 
i«i  that  oultivution  doiai  miL  depend  entirely  on  irri)^ation. 
Tlie  entire  country,  from  the  nionii-nt  the  mountainit  wliieh  | 
overlap  and  jirotcct  Malaga  hud   been  crossed,  liore  (haJ 
evidvitue  of  winter  niio.     Altitude  and  proximity  to  the<; 
Atlantic  clearly  controlled  other  inlhieneei'. 

7'he  mode  of  truvellinj;  greally  inlene^led  u«.  We  had 
a  postillion  on  one  of  the  first  mules,  a  coachman  with  lonj; 
reina  on  a  hi^h  box,  and  u  siipplementAry  driver,  called  the 
mayoral,  aittin;;  at  hia  feet  at  timea,  but  olteuer  ruuntai; 
by  the  side  of  the  mules,  whippinj;  and  urging  ihem  on. 
The  eiiduiancc  of  the  young  postillion  and  of  this  mayoral 
[Kwitively  amuzml  ut.  'llie  former  rode  nil  the  journey, 
eighty  milea;  be  was  twelve  houn  in  the  saddle.  The 
latter  ran,  a  great  part  of  tbe  day,  by  the  side  of  the 


u 


384 


SPAIN. 


malm,  lulling  them,  sltoiitii))?  nl  tWm  at  the  t<>p 
faiaToice,  and  often  tbrowing  utones  u-itb  wliiuli  he  ml«d 
hU  pockets.  This  wa?,  no  doulit,  th«  wny  id  wbich 
travelling  wns  carried  on  all  ovrr  Spiiin  tHtroru  tliv  ilnvH  of 
railways.  Vfe  thus  imsse'l  through  u  diiU  of  pretty  tnouii- 
tain  Hcencrv,  Vine<cla(l  hilts,  fertile  Olive  and  Mulberry- 
covirrcd  valWvs. 


THi:     kLlllMUHt. 


lUE  COUHT  or  UOK-V 


OnnudA,  nben  I  saw  it  in  the  middle  of  Mav,  wsa  v«ry 
lovely  with  spring  verdure.  Owiug  to  ite  altitiidc,  2500 
Ceet,  iti  the  inidsl  of  n  tnoiintain  region,  there  it  no  Inok  at 
moulure;  indeed,  il  rninvd  heiivily  while  1  wu  tliere.  In 
nintev,  I  vtaa  told,  tt  is  often  very  cold,  now  falls  and 


SPANUn  TRAVEIXtNO. 


%65 


it  freexes ;  whilst  io  tho  heitfht  of  annimer  it  u  rery  hot^ 
Hii    arc    atl    similiir   elevations    ia    Spain.     Thus   OraowlB 
iit  only  Iitt4xl  lor  ii  spring  or  autumn  nMidtncv.     In  winlor 
it  is  too  cold,  it)  snnimer  too  nrarm.     The  g^reai  atlrnctinn 
ia  the  Alhambra,  the  palaci:  of  the  Moorish  c.iliphs  in  the 
days  of  vid,  MtiU  in  wondcTfit)  inx^trfrvitliun.     This  "  iirchi- 
tcotural  dreiim"  (leKcrvea  a  n-oelc'tt  atirutiTiy  und  Kludy.     It 
is  an  earthly  realization  of  the   Mahominedan'fl   idea  of; 
paradiM.     Surronnded  by  flowers  and    houris  the  sonsuiilj 
Mahommudau  c^otild  hore  Kitut  out  thi-  wmld  iind  funojrj 
that  h«  had  really  crossed  the  bridu;e  at  xhurp  um  a  ruxor,! 
lapported  by  n  guardian  antfel,  and  had   arrived  at  thoj 
ffKiradisc  promised  to  all  ^od  Musstdniuns  by  Mahommed. 
Tima  wa*  preoioint,  »o  I  wan  oblij^cd  to  tear  rayeeir  awjiy 
from  the  fn^innliono  of  Uranada  and  lh«  Alhambra,  and  to 
lniTBue  n>y  pdj^rirnajfe  "  hometvarda." 


GHAXADA   TO   UADBID. 

Wo  left  Ornnada  in  xplendid  stylo,  in  a  i^rand  dilifrenn 

Ijjtut  like  the  oh)  Fretmh  three-bodii'd  dili;>enceM  of  furnier 

dnyS)  drawn  by  a  string  of  twelve  handifoni<>  mules.     We 

itad  the  thrcu  att«ndant«,  the  postillion,  the  coachman,  and 

Lilie  mayoral, or  xu]>erniimerary  mule-whippcr.  Tho  postilHoii 

'  rode  all  day,  iVtiin  four  o'dvck  in  the  morning  untd  Bve 

in  the  afl^^rnoon,  when  we  reached  the  railway  at  Andnjar. 

A  Spnoish  travelling  companion  told  me  that  before  th« 

railroad  was  opened  to  Andiij^ir  tJiv  Nime  poHtillion  used  to 

ride  from  Uranada  to  Madrid,  two  duya  and  a  nit'ht,  and 

Kometimos  died  at  the  end  of  the  journey.     The  dnver  had 

clearly  the  Ix^t  of  it,  for  he  snt  still,  merely  hohlin<;  the 

ruiRH  and  oucasionally  using  hia  long  whip.     The  mayoral, 

Jike  tive  po«tillion,  had  a  hard  time,  for  he  was  up  and 

down  every  five  minutes,  and  was  as  ofien  runnin-f  by  Ihu 

Bide  of  the  mulo,  shouting  at  the  top  of  hia  voiee,  liwhing 

oat  with  a  lony^  whip,  or  throwiu|i  «tone»  at  them,  oa 

sitting  in  liia  seat  at  the  feet  of  toe  driver.     These  men 

ailorded  a  goud  i)lu«lration  of  tlio  power  and  endnmnce  of 

l.liainaii   muscle  and  vitality  in  youth  under  clfieicnt  and 

constant  training. 


286 


SPAIN. 


Until  we  struck   the  Guadalquivir  valley,  a  few  mil« 
liefore  reat-'hin^  tlie  rui),  we  wi-ru  all  diiy  in  ii  mountuin^ 
(liHtriot,  betwL'cn  IJOO  itnd  2500  fevt  above  the  vca.     H«l 
il  cli^iirly  rainK  in  wint«r,  aod  the  scenery  was  very  fit 
turesqiie  and  lovely.     The  rocka  w«ro  ^vnerully  swcondi 
cretaceous,  with  here  and  there  Hcliisili*;  de|iixit«  from  tlie' 
bigher  primary  m»initikiiiM.     In  the  luwer  valleys  we  fotiiid 
the  Olive,  Miilherry,  Fo|>lar,  Willow,  in  the  hipher  schistic 
rv^ons,  the  Cork  Ouk,  the  Ilex,  eonii-tiin<-K  ^nind   tre<»j^ 
with  the  Broom  itnd  siritilar  «hriilM,     The  Hiiwthom  wi 
very  euinmon  on  the  loaJside,  uiid  being  in  lluwer  gai 
quite  an  Kngliitli  look  to  the  road. 

Wg  tuck  the  railway  at  eix  I'ur  I^diilrid,  but  I  was  d4 
terinined  not  to  upend  a  ni|>ht  on  the  road,  itueh  a  cour 
being  oltojMther  o|iposed  to  my  travellinj;  princijtles. 
was  told  Inat  there  was  no  licAnililu  place  wliere  I  could 
tind  oocommodulion  for  the  night  t»  break  the  Journey, 
bnt  I  di-termined  to  rnn  any  risk,  and  (topped  »l  1U.30,  n^ 
Viil  de  PcDux,  n  little  town,  the  cetitre  of  a  well  know  _ 
wine  dislriet.  I  and  a  friend,  who  was  willing  to  try  tbi 
adventure,  wera  deposited  at  the  Etation,  half  a  oiilo  from 
the  town.  I  manai;rd  to  make  (he  Ktaliori-oinfitvr  u»d< 
Bland  that  wc  wiinti^d  bi:d*,  and  lie  sent  a  porter  utF  wit 
tis.  In  a  few  minutes  we  reached  Vul  de  Henas,  an  assea 
l>Ugc  of  one  or  two-storeyed,  whitcwa»hi.-d  hotisuM,  in  wi<lc 
clean,  re^uhir  ntrci-'tii  at  right  an<;luii  to  each  <i1I)lt.  Wf 
knuckcd  at  a  sroull  but  respectable  dwelling' house,  tbs^ 
inmate*  of  whieli  hml  retired  to  rest,  and  after  some  demur 
Were  admitted,  and  >howu  into  a  "  Mootiith"  C|L)iidtangular 
courtyard,  with  sii  arcade  all  niund.  A  bustling,  good- 
iialured  woman  iiflhcrad  us  into  a  nice  cK-an  room,  opening 
on  tills  arcade,  wlicru  w«  found  two  decent  U-dH,  and  ifler 
the  haid  dii)'s  journey  from  (iraiiada,  we  wou  found 
oblivion  in  sltiml«r. 

\Vu  had  not  to  leave  Val  dc  Pcuas  until  ont>  o'clock,  so 
did  not  ri<«  very  enrly.  On  appearing  wc  found  oar  lively 
and  obliging  ho^tiss  biihily  cmplowd  coniliing  the  long 
black  ttTMo^  iit'  a  dark-eyed  grown-up  ijui><£litcr,  who  was 
sitting  nn  a  clair  in  the  courtyard.  Thi«  ]:errorn)uncu 
ouncliidcd,  with  sundry  amiable   tiods  and  smile*  frum 


A  NIQHt  AT  VAl.  I>E  I'KSAS. 


287 


mother  and  duuijlilor,  wu  contrivcO,  partly  by  eignt, 
to  Diakc  kiiiinn  our  wnuU  fur  UvuUlnst,  ivhicli  were 
utlondixl  to.  The  fe|i;iHL  was  a  vi'ry  plisiK.iiit  one,  auJ 
)Mrtuk«u  will)  a  certain  (le;{ri!u  of  stute  uiidi^i'  Uti-  urv-mlu,' 
fur  the  best  crix:ki:ry,  eviiloutly  tiv-ii«iti*uJ  corioiitieii,  vrtu 
brotisht  out  for  the*  i>u>.-n<iii(ii.  [ly  thin  litnu  \vv-  liaJ  found 
uot  that  wc  were  u«t  in  a  "  l'c)»adii,"  bui  ^iii.-xl!t  oI'Die 
bliiL-kainith  of  the  villa:{Q.  The  atatioa-nuisler  liad  rightly 
onDcludud  tiiut  we  ehould  liu  buttur  Ifvatcd  thuie  than  at 
thu  iniiK,  which  wv  Kub«-i|iiently  mitv,  iiitd  which  did  uut 
loolk  very  t«TU|>tiii){.  Whilst  wi^  wwu  brtuikfoittin;;  our 
boiL*  Kit  do^vu  nt>ar  us,  and  wh.it  with  ei^nst,  itiiiikis,  gn- 
tures,  and  tlio  k-w  wonis  of  S(>uiii)ih  vrn  c:mlJ  muiitur  wa 
anoagod  to  keep  up  nil  aniii)iit<:<l  i-iiiivfritatioii.  VVn  werai 
crideotly  even  moru  a  auhjuct  ut  vuriusity  to  tbetu  than 
thoy  were  to  U8. 

AlWr  breakfast  wc  made  a  perambulation  in  the  town, 
and  wcro  cvvrywhero  received  with   fjrwit  vi>rdiality  and 
civihty.     Tliv  population    boru  Nlflinpcd   uq  tlivtr   r»tliires 
tfot>i\    natuiv,   eohricty,   bard    wurk.   and   health.      They 
dearly  belong  to  the  simple-minded  ruce  to  which  1  have 
alluded,  to  tn«  ta«o  that  Iism)  toe  centuries  ehud  ite  blood 
liko  water  to  defuml  Ktipentitton,  naively  tbiiikint;  it  wan 
aiipporting  rali^ion,  niul  to  pr»lei.-t  a  eorrupt  racuufkinga 
and  iiiibles,  under  the  impre^ion  that  it  was  pei't'orming  aj 
Bacred    duty    to    its    native    euuntry.      Such  a  race,  ouce ' 
ciliieiitvd,  emancijuited  fiom  the  traijiniebt  of  Kuperstition 
Hud  uf  fealty  to  corrupt  lulers,  who  have  forft-ited  evtiyj 
claim  to  respect  and  euppoit,  is  sure,  aa  I  have  Miid,  aj^aia 
to  niiiic  the  name  of  Spain  to  a  high  rank  in  the  family  of 
iiutitiiu). 

Anion^t  other  Itouseit  that  we  vuited  was  a  lurj^  wine 
exporttfr's  premises,  The  business  was  uuried  ou  in  a 
Fpiiciituv  qiuulranfrular  courtyard  uf  the  unuikl  character  sur- 
iiniuiled  by  buildingN.  In  addition  to  vats  containing^ 
wine,  there  were  an  imnien&ti  number  of  pigakina,  son 
lilled  with  wine  nnd  doin;;  duty  for  eaiks,  others  in  thfl  i 
various  AtMges  of  preparation  fur  lliat  piirpoMc.  The  »kiiui 
arc  very  artistienlly  pulled  olf  the  uoinial,  ao  ua  only  tij 
leave  two  good  uized  holes,  one  at  the  oeek  the  other  at  the 


288 


BPAIN. 


tjul,  am)  four  email  onm  at  the  feet,  "nw  br<^r  IioIm  are 
pieo«d  nilh  jiiece*  of  iilcin  ;  tb«  smaller  are  sewn  1i;;litly,  §o 
that  no  esuofie  of  the  wine  is  possible,  l^rev-iuiisly  lo  i)ii« 
heiuf;  done  the  bristles  are  ecrapnl  oiF  tiin<l  llie  ekitis  edIu 
niitled  to  some  eofl«ning  firoccM ;  vre  mw  hundrcils  thus 
prvpariiig  for  uav.  At  one  o'clock  we  re^inttl  the  iTatn, 
mi;'htilF  pleaded  nith  this  lillle  iusij^htinto  •SpatiiBli  village 
life,  atid  i^ralcful  for  the  cordiality  of  oar  rucepUun  by  :  " 
nith  uliuna  we  hod  oopw  in  contAcl. 


MlDKID. 

Madrid  iR  not  like  any  olher  city  that  I  saw  tn  Sfnit 
In  its  modern  part,  at  leaft.  it  reseiiibles  a  portion  of  I>aria 
or  of  Doideaux.  Ttie  houses  are  tall,  many- windowed 
French  houMV,  and  tliR  vtrrets  are  tolcnihly  with-  rartsiat) 
Btra-ts.  llie  m(>st  peculiar  feattire  alMiiit  Jkliidrid  ia  its 
siituation  in  a  plain  i!700  feet  above  the  sea,  ten  milM  front 
the  southern  base  of  the  Guadarrama  chain  of  mountains 
'fbe  mere  altitude  makes  it  cold  «vcn  in  the  latitude  of  40* 
in  winter,  and  iW  *iluatia»  at  aome  diNtanov  from  the 
»f  higli  mounlaina  covered  with  snow  from  autumn 
epring,  eutposes  it  to  dry,  picrcin;;  down  diatighta  an« 
winds  from  the  north.  Ttieite  Dtcteoroh>gical  eoiulilic 
rekder  the  inhabitants  liable  lo  acute  iunummatory  ■lli>< 
tiona  of  the  chest,  which  are  very  common,  sevei'e,  and 
fatal.  In  the  eiinimer  lite  obivatioo  docs  not  preeerri 
Madrid  in  thin  latitude  from  extienut  hoat.  It  ia  tiien 
fiercely  dry  and  hot  as  it  in  dry  imd  cold  in  winter.  Whe 
1  waa  there.  May  iO,  llie  teinperaluro  was  oitol  and  asrei 
able,  and  the  weather  very  pletuunt.  Tliis  I  vat  told  18 
f^nerally  the  cnve  in  apiiuj^  and  untumn. 

There  ia  much  to  see  at  and  near  Ihlndrid,  bnt  .-is  I  had 
only  a  few  days  to  dtFpose  of,  after  examiniti)'  the  ni]i{;uifi> 
(lent  piaturc  Ralli-rit»,  I  turned  my  attention  to  my  iisua) 
Ntudy,  ve|^-t4tti(it)  fl«  illiwlratinv  climate. 

It  ia  moHt  intercstint;  to  observe  at  Madrid,  on  an  ex< 
tensive  scale,  how  elevation  nciitruliM-s  Intitiule.     JiKJ^JDfc' 
fV'jm  the  ve)fet4ition,  the  winter  and  oi'Hiig  muot  be  imrtjr 
a«  co]<[  an  they  are  in  KngUnd,  although  the  eummots  an 


TBGBTATION  AT  UA1>BID. 


289 


Bntieh  liotter.  When  I  was  titcrc,  May  IS,  tliorc  witc  hut 
§te«  sprintc  tlowcre  in  the  piililir  ^nnlvcix,  iiiid  tlii'  iiliiiiting 
out  ot'  (jL-rnnuini!',  H«Uolrope*,  Verbenas,  had  but  juat  lieeii 
comiilvtcd.  There  were  Stocks,  PaiiBiw,  Delphinium,  Swwt 
^Villiam,  Aquile^ia,  Eecbecholtzia,  Siltiiic,  Antiirhinimi 
^Antbts,  in  Howw  or  cuniiiig  into  llowi'r.  The  deciduous 
BtJiK«  )iiid  juKt  made  tbeir  new  leaves ;  there  were  bul  Tuw 
Keonirers  or  everi^rNtis.  1  Tound  tlic  names  of  ecvcnil  oniit- 
KiDeilta)  trees  n*hu-h  1  hsd  vi'Cn  in  othur  piirt«  of  i^piiii)  with- 
kot  being  «1>I«  toubloiii  their  di-ni^'tiaiioii.  Tlie  tiillowiii;; 
hrere  irrowinK  w  larije  trees : — Ccrcia  Biliquastrum,  Ailantw 
gtitiidulosa,  Celtifl  ntittralic,  Piniif  marilima,  1'.  I Intopensie, 
Rubiuiu  pBCudo-Acouiu,  very  commonly-  uiuid  jII  tiv«r  Spain 
M  a  tuwn  tree,  no  doubt  Ironi  its  doinf;  well  with  littJe 
water.  The  same  may  be  said  of  Uie  SopJiorn  Japonica  mid 
I  of  the  Melia  Axedanteb,  Ctillin  oc«iiteiHjiliit,  Tiliii  intor- 
^^Biedia,  Glt-ditnohia  Iriacanthos,  Neff^umlo  fraxiiiifoliuin, 
^Hjlroussonetia  pH|iyrifera,  Acer  pseudo-Plantanus,  Aeaeia 
^^P f amesiana,  I'rotopis  eiliqua^trum,  riiitanue  occidentalis, 
^HDuvatui  dfpcucIi-iiK,  CiymiiveJudiw  CaiiactuMxin,  llubinia 
^^ftttmbmculifcra,  Cedrus  Libani,  I'opulus  caiineeni,  Aeer 
^HvatDpestre,  Ciiprcesns  horizontalis.  The  soil  at  Madrid  is 
^^t|iartl)'  silinxitiK,  the  grmt  mt)imtiiin!«  which  riiie  to  tho 
north  t«  u  hi-i^lit  ot'ftUOU  or  COOO  feet  buin^  ttriinitit;. 
TItc  railway  from  Madiid  to  the  Dorthcrn  front li-rasct'ixiH 

Cto  a  hfiifht  nf  nearly  6000  feet,  into  an  Alpine  country 
thickly  woodwl  with  Coiiifeni  and  Oiiki;.  The  liittcr  wiTe 
th«n  beginnini;;  ((lie  SOth  of  Itlay)  to  vend  rortli  their  It-uvea. 
It  ia  the  north  winds  from  these  snow-oovered  motinUiitla 
titat  contribute  so  much  to  cmbilt«r  the  elimale  of  Madrid. 
On  their  norlliem  alopea  the  mountains  itre,  for  a  (preat  dift- 
iutee,  iMTTen  and  treeless. 

True  to  the  principle  not  to  travel  at  nisbt,  I  stopped  at 
Valladolid  and  at  Btirgo*  to  bn-iik  the  journey,  and  toum) 
both  these  cities  wcrtJi  vii>iting.  They  are  much  Km 
Spanisli  tJian  the  towns  south  ol  tho  (iuadarrama  chain. 
Ttio  utrveta  are  tolerably  wule,  whilst  tho  faonsca  rea<:h 
three  storeys,  and  are  not  all  whilvwa»h(.>d.  Alto;;ither 
there  is  a  norlhero  character  about  them,  explainvd  liy  ttw 

I  elevation,  which  is  considerable,  and  by  tbo  ooitsctjuvut 
: . 


290 


8PAIX. 


coldness  of  tlic  nnntcr  tcmpcmtiiro.  In  Viilladolid  I  snw 
thehoiiM  in  wliifli  CbnKto)>iiL'r('i)liim))us  died,  ii  fm^morablf! 
raonum«»t;  nud  also  the  House  and  room  in  whicli  Mii-bael 
Cervantes  wrotfi  Don  (^uixoU.  I  eat  for  some  minutes 
the  very  window  froiii  which  he  must  liiivc  <l»ily  look 
wliiii  cnmi'tHiini;  hiit  renowned  work.  At  Dui^b  the  jk^ri^al 
sight  ift  the  mtlicdral,  a  truly  inajriiificent  structure,  tjiiite 
worthy  of  twonty>four  hours'  dcUy  on.llic  part  of  the 
p:w»iiig  travfllcr. 

Aller  leaving  Btira;o9  we  rapidly  approached  the  Pyrenees 
and  their  spurs,  pnsftiiif;  throui^li  the  UiKque  proviDce.    il 
wc  lost  sight  of  the  |x:cidiar  features  of  central  and  eaot 
Spain  aK  a  ruinlcNt,  treeleits  country  \t'A\i  warm  shi^rea  uui 
cold  hi^h  centRtl  plaius.   Trees,  forests,  pasturen  made  their 
sppearancc,  n«  iilso  the  outward    evidence  of  thoiiglilful, 
ckilfut  ciiUivattiiii.     It  wo*  clear  thnt  n-e  were  iipprciaohii: 
th«  shores  of  the  Atlantic,  and  the  moist  ctimale  of  t 
n-ealern  coast  of  Europe.     St.  Sebaslian  was  reached,  tl 
the  French  frontier,  and  a  few  minutes  lat«r  BiMrrilz. 


4 


ajUATP,   AND    UKDICAL  COSCL0$IO!l!t 

The  me<lical  concKsions  at  which  I  have  arrived,  respec 
inp  the  climnto  of  Spnin,  have  hcoii   recorded  a«i  1   liiivc 
piof;reps<'d   in   the  narration  of  my  tour,  to  I   have  not 
merely  lo  recti  ]iituUte. 

The  health  regions  of  Spnin  are  confined  to  the  east 
and  fwitth-eatitcrn  coastiE,  at  the  foot  of  the  oentral  t«bl«- 
lund.  Owin^  to  the  south  and  north -westerly  winds  having 
their  moisture  precipitated  by  the  mountaiDsof  the  western 
and  central  re>pon»  ol'  Spain,  and  owins  to  the  north  ^a«terly 
winds  being  pulled  down  to  Al^M'ia  by  the  Desert  of  Saliar 
the  enitem  ooast  of  Spain  is  probably  the  driest  region  i 
Eurom,  drier  even  than  the  Genoese  Uivicni, 

Thifl  eastern  coast  of  Spain  ia  ut«o  one  of  the  mildert 
winter  regions  of  I'^umpe,  although  witli  the  exception  of 
Malaga,  and  its  vicinity,  probably  not  ({uite  s'>  mild,  not 
quite  so  free  from  slight  winter  frosts,  as  tbo  morv  pro« 
toctcd  regions  of  the  Geoocw  nodcrolilT, 


CLIMATE  AM)    MEDICAL  CONCLUSIOXa       291 

Stirli  tioii)^  th«ca*«,  (til  tbnl  I  linvostatfid  in  llio  medicil 
cliajitcr  on  the  Hivten  ftjimlly  :iii[itie9  lo  tiit'§L'  ivj^ioiii 
of  Spain,  lis  (.'Hmato  mii^t  ho  cqiully  bi-ncliL-iii]  in  .-ill  ■.iikuk 
rv^l'iiring  ilry,  inilU,  Unicinjf,  sunny,  Ktiinubliii';  wintt'i' 
wcnther. 


YKl  ALBUIUA. 


D   i 


CHAPTER  X 

COBJO— TIIB  lOSUK    ISLANDS— OKEECK— TUB  ABCBl' 
rRUOO— COKSTANTINOMJE— THE  DANCBE. 

"Till  Ortvcc,  but  living  CrfMO  DontflK! 
Su  ooldly  >w»et,  so  d«ad)jr  fair. 
Wo  stftrt,  (or  Mat  ia  wauttnif  Ibere. 
•  •  '        •  c  « 

Voir  elinc,  wW*  every  mmod  umlea 
Ik-Bignwit  o'#r  theee  1>l«^m«d  mIm, 
IVrc  DiQdly  diicpling,  Occlui'*  ohoek 
B<'Hn,*t«  tho  tinti  ofRinny  k  ponk 
Cauftht  by  tiie  Iniigbinjt  tidcti  tlikt  litve 

TbuM  I£d«u«  of  Mto  outwn  waTe."  

Bnoit— TAif  Oiaoar. 

Oyr.  of  the  mnet  enjoynblu  moiJcs  of  returning  liome  after  a 
winter  spent,  in  Itul)-  in  by  tlio  r(>utv  dLtioriUid  nt  the  head 
of  lltiti  dhHjiter.  I  bad  lonif  wiBbed  to  taku  ttib  jounusy, 
not  only  for  pleasure,  but  >tso  to  study  tbe  Bprin;;  vegeta- 
tion itnd  tb(!  climate  of  the  north  shore  of  the  MnliU-mnean 
eAst  of  Italy.  At  but  the  loug-coulGtnplatK)  plan  becamt 
feosibic,  and  in  the  ovenitig  of  April  iiTtb,  187~,  1  si 
frtiin  llrindiiH  on  an  Aiutrian  Lloyd  steamer  for  Corfu. 
The  weather  was  Rnc,  tlie  sea  calm,  and  th«  veiumi 
and  commodious.  As  soon  as  the  lights  of  BriDdisi  beg^n 
to  pale  on  the  horiion  1  retired,  passed  n  very  comrortable 
nifflit,  and  nvxt  mornins  by  six  was  on  deck,  anxious  to 
Hsoeriain  tlie  state  of  tGingii.  We  bad  crosi^od  the  moutli 
of  tJie  Adriatic  in  the  ni^jlit,  ami  were  running  ■  south- 
viudcrly  coun«,  a  few  miles  only  from  the  shore  of  Albania, 
at  the  foot  of  precipitous  limestone  mountaiDs,  ap- 
parenUy  from  4000  to  6000  feet  high.  At  th«  higher 
elvTations  there  were  still  patches  of  snow  glistening  in 


vcamt 


TIIB  VOYAOK  TO  OORFO. 


sdi 


nin,  and  creatini:;  riviiteU  that  triukUxl  down  Uic  mountain, 
to  loKo  thiimfidviTs  in  ths  sctt. 

The  aim  wuii  chining  brij^htly  on  tlie  bald  irregular 
precipitous  nioiintjiiiis,  bringing  into  clear  relief  tlii-ir  pro- ' 

{'ections  and  reccscE.  To  the  cyo  thwc  appi-sirwl  naked, 
mton  L'xaminutiflu  with  a  gliiss  it  ljL-cum«  evident  lli:it 
thej-  were  covered  with  hruubwood,  probably  Uoncmary, 
Thyme,  Lentioous,  Juniper,  and  Myrtle,  When  tli«  niotiii- 
tMM  became  Icxs  pracipitous,  the  Mih,  drpvcssion'!,  i-uvines, 
were  oorercd  with  puloticw  of  Cunilers,  princtpully  the  Pinus 
Uatepensis  ur  Aleppo  Pine,  I  waa  subHi-queiitly  inlbrmcd. 

Curiosity  aa  to  our  vrhtreaboute  thus  gratilicd,  my  cy«8 
tumM  instinctively  to  my  fellow  piiswn^^fm,  who,  tike 
tnyaidr,  had  iibundoned  their  berth.i  and  were  liianinij  over 
tlie  side  of  the  vessel,  loukina  landwards,  entranced  by  the 
beauty  of  the  eccui'ry,  by  tbo  <;lorious  hnrmuni'.'S  of  the 
•on,  the  mounttiini>,  and  the  Ay,  Ul  up  by  Kuulhi^rn  xun- 
ahine.  They  vtcTo  only  seven,  a  Greek  gontlemun  on  bis 
way  to  Athens,  whone  adiiiainlance  I  had  miide  at  Hrindist, 
and  an  English  ^ntleman  snd  family  bound  for  Con- 
sUntinople,  via  Corfu,  Athcnx,  and  Smyrna. 

My  Greek  friend  hiul  piiwed  n  dtiy  with  me  at  the  com* 
oiodious  Briiidi^i  lintel.  He  was  partner  in  a  lar;;a 
London  house,  and  h.id  spent  nearly  twenty  yciirs  tii  tho 
Host  without  Tcvisitin};  Europe.  He  had  not  seen  hii 
native  country  for  a  much  lon^rer  period,  and  was  in  a 
levcrisli  stat«  of  pulriulic  imptilience  to  revisit  once  more 
Athens,  where  he  was  born,  and  the  haunts  of  his  youth, 
H<!  hud  mitde  a  handmumc  I'liittinc  in  the  EdkI,  be  tiild  me, 
and  meant  to  buy  huid.  In  invent  capital,  niid  tu  btdp  to 
ro;^onerale  tireece.  hidi-ed,  he  was  full  ol  day-Jreums  lor 
the  prosperity  and  glory  of  his  beloved  country.  He  had 
with  him  his  "eon,"  n  dear  little  lioy  of  live,  whom  he 
wi*hcd  (o  introduce  to  the  land  of  his  foreliithers.  He  had 
taken  the  child  from  lu<  mnmuia'a  lap,  piomieins  that  h« 
and  a  trusty  man-servant  would  do  all  reipiired.  ThedutJei 
most  au-laetously  uudertaken  by  the  father  and  his  valet 
were  mint  fcrupuIouKly  pi^rlurmed,  but  the  f^hild  was  mure 
tlian  a  match  for  tlie  two,  and  wms  often  the  cause  ot'adc>;'rea 
of  perplexity  and  of  betvildermeut,  aniUGiii<r  tu  witue»s. 


294  COBFU  AN'D  THE  lONIAK  IBLAN1>& 

Th«  EtiKliah  [rentlcman  m-oh  a  gvcnl  illustration  of  tliff 
ediiciilpi)  i'tit;li^h  putcrfaTijilins.  He  was  a  Uuiversity  man, 
a  •io(n\  diiRfical  Mclioliir,  an  en-M.P.,  «i>d  hwl  travcllvd  a 
ik-:il  in  Ilia  yoiitli.  Itciii^  ili'Mrotis  Ut  rIiow  liiti  family  a 
little  of  tlie  world,  he  lolii  nic  hu  had  xwt  started  nitli  his 
wife,  eon,  daii^^hter,  und  nic-ce,  an  amjile  supply  of  Murniya' 
attd  intruiiiivtione  to  our  Miuieters  anil  ConRuU,  for  a  two 
inontlis'  Kustvi'ii  tiiur.  We  trnvi-Ued  side  bjr  >idc  uutil  I 
h\\  Ccnstuntinbpli',  and  the  i;om|ianioiuhi))  of  this  family 
proved  meet  ii^rrecahle,  tuktti<;  ;iwiiy  all  feolini;  of  lunolincu* 

Aa  we  pi'dgn-sscd  the  AlUnniim   moiintninf)  l>ecainc  IcM 

fircoipit'itte,  Hmidt  plains  iippe^roil  noni'  thoir  base,  id  which 
urge  Olive  tree*  were  growini;,  and  their  presence  waa 
Boon  followed  by  the  a|'pearanc«  of  a  villorie  of  towo— 
Buuntro.  In  all  civilized  p:irts  of  the  world  the  hahili 
tion»  of  mun  mukc  Uioir  nppciiranee  itimnltaiHWusly  wit 
the  evidences  nf  fertility ;  witli  the  appearaooe  of  land  that 
will  pn>duL-o  what  he  lives  upon,  animul  or  veg^'tiible.  llto 
civilization,  however,  of  the«ie  Albanian  villa^^,  tost  in  tlt< 
fi.lda  of  tliuir  wild  motinlaine,  would  nppoiir  to  be  «l  rathe 
a  luw  obli,  if,  ut  least,  ibo  uipTuin  of  our  sti.-snier  is  to  " 
rt'lied  on.  In  reply  to  a  qnontion  as  to  tlie  people  who  lOJ 
hiibited  them,  he  exuhiimed,  "  K  una  razza  ni»li-d«ttu,^ 
adding  that  it  would  he  an  evil  hour  for  ns  were  our  v( 
wrecked  on  that  coast  [  Pi.-rl'a|  s  tho  Albanian  villagen 
WL-re  belied,  and  were  better  than  their  reputation. 

When  opposite  Jlueiiitro  on  lurninij  round,  wo  saw 
riMiif;  out  of  the  sea,  t«  the  south-west,  ii  rocky  barren 
inland  about  »ix  milcii  in  etrcumferonoe,  inhabiled  by  a  few 
tiehermen  only,  the  inhnd  of  Kano.  It  is  litly  mik-s  from 
th«  nearvst  point  of  the  Italian  coast.  Otraoto,  and  twelve 
from  the  iuland  of  Corfu.  The  latter  also  appeared  on  tho 
m>uth  horizon,  apparently  u  continuation  of  and  a  pro- 
jection from  the  Albanian  mountain  land.  Our  steanMir 
directed  iUi  course  to  the  angle  of  junction,  and  wo  soon 
discovered  and  entered  a  channel  only  two  niilex  wide, 
which  si-panites  tho  northern  extremity  of  Corfu  from  tlie 
Albanian  voatrt.  The  channel  vdou  widens  and  forms 
lake-like  expanse,  exr|uisitely  lovely,  and  ei};ht  miles  ii 
width,  upjwsita  the  town  of  Corfu.     Tlu£  lakc-liku  ex|Kiu> 


THE  TOWN  OF  CORFU. 


299 


eion  of  the  channel  between  the  islun<l  And  Uic  mainland 
may  \xs  compiuvd  to  IJfty  Loch  Loinondu,  HUTrouiitltH)  by 
fifty  Ili'ii  Lomonda.  Wc  breakOtst^d  aa  comfortably  as 
on  the  Soobih  loch  Bteamor,  u-hilet  passing  rapidly  avoi- 
tli«  blue  wnt«rs,  Und-loukud  and  9iirrouiid<.*d  by  bL-auUful 
mauntiiiny,  iirrlviii!^  iiL  ckvL'ii  in  lliu  hiirbour  of  ('url'u. 

Corfu  is  a  crescent -shaped  isUiid,  of  limestone  furmatioii, 
Utitudo  A'J'  ;iO',  lyin;;  all  but  north  and  south,  mid  Kt-piir.itod 
from  th«  miiiiiliind  by  a  chunnol  of  variable  width,  two 
mileii  at  iUt  northern  outlet,  twelve  in  the  centre,  six  at 
the  southern  outlet.  Ihe  width  of  the  island,  whivh  b 
mountainous,  varies  from  tHciiLy  milos  in  the  north  ta 
throe  or  four  in  the  nouth.  The  town  of  Corfu  is  « iLimti^d 
on  tlie  euatern  Nhare,  at  about  iU  centre,  faoinj^  tlia 
All«niaa  coast  and  niountnins.  It  is  composed  of  tlie 
oitadul,  tho  town,  and  the  suburbs.  The  citndcl  ocxitipics 
the  summit  of  a  smull  plain, about  two  hundred  f<wt  iibove 
the  aea.  It  coinpriMUi  the  priiii-ipal  fortilleations,  including 
two  owttov,  tlie  fortner  Engliiili  guverunr's  paluce,  and  a 
wide  wplanade,  now  a  public  g^anlen.  The  citadel  over- 
looks the  harbttur  and  the  louro,  the  uarrow  streetn  of  tho 
latter  oceupyiiif;  the  >ilo|iing  hill-sid«-K  bctwoeu  itand  the  sea. 

The  town  •>(  Corfu  is  singularly  ititercotinj;  to  the 
northern  traveller,  more  so  than  any  other  town  I  saw  in 
Orwce,  not  exoepting  Athens.  'Hie  pi«luri'S(pie,  brinht- 
coloured  Grecian  and  Albanian  costuintw  nre  very  numerous 
— ^ill  but  univertnl — meeting  you  at  every  turn;  and  every 
traosaotjon  of  life  is  iMrri(.-d  on  in  the  (ireek  language. 
Tho  names  of  the  streets,  the  nuraea  and  the  occupations 
of  the  chopkeepoi*s,  the  Uovcrnniont  judicial,  and  trudinu 
anntiunucinenU  and  ■dvertiKemcnle  are  all  ill  Gr«ek.  The 
veuni  passed  at  school  and  college  revert  to  the  mind,  with 
Thui;ydides  and  Sophocles,  and  all  the  memories  of  that 
vrry  liard-working  period  of  Ufe :  I  was  enchanted,  and 
rumbled  ol>»ut  hour  aft^-r  hour.  1  kept  to  my  Greek  friend 
and  his  lioy,  ftilluwini»  tliem  to  a  very  good  hotel  over- 
looking the  esplanade  and  the  citadel,  where  we  were  per- 
AwtJy  Gomfortahte.  I  found  hitn  au  agreeable  com  pan  ioOf 
and  we  drove  nbotit  Ibu  island  together,  he  with  a  view  to 
iiivttttiiient«,  1  intent  vit  tlie  study  of  vcgcUilioii. 


i96 


OORPtr  AND  THE  IONIAN   ISLANOe. 


Corfu,  at  the  time  I  raw  if,  tlie  cud  of  April,  la  oerbibll 
ouu  of  tlio  lovelieit  spots  on  the  fucc  of  Itie  eartli.  Al 
cliori-i]  out  nt  Hca,  from  sis  to  tiri'lve  miles  di!^tant  from  the 
mniiilaml,  it  hw  ever  Wforc  it  llic  miiRniliocnt  nin^u  of 
limestone  motiiitiiiiiK  timt  okirU  the  Alliaiiiun  conct,  W4)odvd 
to  the  eea  at  tlieir  liaae,  bold,  naked,  jagj^,  preci]ntoits  in 
their  npper  elevution.  The  UUnd  is  merely  the  summit  of 
n  Hubmarinv  momit^nn  rjn^v,  ri8iii<;  nnd  fa)Iin<;,  furrowed 
hy  valleys,  ruvine*,  d(!pri'!K«i«»K,  iiarrowiti)^  itiul  widening, 

Ereseiitinfj  everj-  [..lenible  ine()ualiiy  of  eurtiice   from   i' 
ighe^t  poflk  (190U  I  >ut)  to  the  seft  which  EUiTounds  it. 

Owiii);  to  the  kn^  ocouputioit  of  tho  loniiin  idandi  hy 
tti«  ICnjilisli,  and  to  Corfu  huvini;  boi^n  tliu  centra 
Oaverntnent,  it  baa  been  noliMied,  oivilised,  up  to 
Btimdanl,  liko  Mntla.  The  iiiI1uod<^v  of  former  duy«  is  stilt 
felt,  nlthongh  onr  protitctomt«  has  oome  to  iin  uiid.  uud  it 
has  now  lieeumc  a  pint  of  the  kinf;dom  of  Greece.  The 
pniicijial  iiotvU  ur«  cUmi  and  coralortjible,  the  roada  all 
over  the  islnud  are  as  ^ooi  as  in  Kutrland,  and  (;ood 
CDTTiagCfl  with  eivil  drivers  are  to  lie  had  without  trouble. 
I  ftilt  it  quite  a  luxury  to  drive  nboiit  on  f^od  r')ndii,  in  a 
oomfortable  carriage,  in  the  midnt  of  the  familiar  Mvditer> 
Miteao  vefcetation,  growing  with  exuberant  fertility,  inuined 
by  the  southeru  bud,  and  t^nerullr  in  view  of  the  blue  aea 
wave*  ;  fur  the  nai  in  fvUloin  lust  8i;;ht  of  fur  long  togvthcrj 
Owiri(;  t»  the  tinmitvneiis  of  the  IsIbikI. 

It  ia  only,  however,  in  the  numerous  depressions,  vail 
ravines  that  this  exuberant  fertility  shows  itself. 
bci|*bts  and  ok-vations  aoceseible  to  northern  winds 
the  eontineiit  are  either  niif.-<:d  or  clothed  with  I'ines,  tJte 
Ikliiritimc  and  Alenpo  Pin«-«  prim-ijiully.  'I'hiti  fact  givea 
the  key  to  the  clinuite  of  (urtu.  On  the  same  line  of 
latitiiik  Ids')  as  the  south  of  Itjdy,  tlie  eeiilrv  uf  Sardinia, 
Miijorcn,  Valencia,  itx  vepclali'in  is  wjually  Houtherit— 
equally  or  even  more  luxuriant — wherever  there  is  prolectioQ 
from  the  ooiitinentul  or  north  winds.  Th<>»c  winds  lull 
npon  Corfu  owing  to  its  being  eight  or  ten  ruileat  out 
«va,  thus  distant  from  the  protection  which  the  Albuni: 
mounlains  give  to  the  regionv  at  their  liaae. 

In  all  »uch  sheltered  regions  I  found  (April  liSth)  in  l1 


tber, 
froi^ 


VBQETATION  OF  COttFU. 


297 


irdens  and  elKcwhcre  Ihc  rugetaWcs,  flowers,  nn<l  fruits 

rbiub  appear  at  the  etui  of  June  in  Knglaiid — Petu,  BriMuI 

ios,  Strnwlwrries,   Uoaes  of  all   sorts,  in   full   flower, 

inluia,   Bengal,  Tea,   hybi-iJ ;    Dulpbiniiim,    Collinoin, 

kntirriiinum,  Canuition,   Pink.     The   Acacln  und    Horu 

hestDiit   treea  were  i(oint(   ont  of  bloaw>m,  a^  were  all 

spring  llon-cis.     The  Mulberry  and  dcM;iduoiis  Odks  were 

in  full  l«af.     The  AiluntuK  |>landiilv<>,  whivh  is  fxtiiiuiwijr 

grown,  bad  only  jmt  bo^uti  to  form  its  terminal  branehea 

and  Iciivefi.     The  Orange  trees  were  iu  blossom,  and  some 

hiwl  Htill   on  tlicni  lur^c,  well-formed   fruit.     They  w«ro 

healthy  and  birge,  but  only  found  in  the  duepent  vallt!y!(,  in 

the  tnoet  sheltered  localities;  I  ^nw  but  few  Lemon  trees. 

0(M  djiy  I  drove  over   to  a  v)llag<!  called  Bonitzu,  scvca 

milea  from  Corfu,  through  a  mot^t  srailin;;  and  piuturcxtiuo 

oountry,  through  villu^ua   full  of  ^aily-drecsed,  apparently 

well-tO'do  pcae:itit«.     It  was  Sunday,  and  they  were  all  in 

the  Ktreete  in  thi-ir  holiday  costuniu — a  very  protty  »ii;ht. 

Iu  thcM  aoiilhcm  villages  on  f^tu  days  the  people  spend 

the  day  together  out  of  doom,  at  the  cntrunce  of  their 

houses,  iu  the  miiiarci,  in  the  streets,  round  the  fountainii. 

The  tjirU  shyly   assemble  and  herd  in   bevivs  or  Hocks, 

whilvt  tliu  yonnif  men  on  their  side  do  th«  samv,   botb 

eyeing  eaeh  other  at  a  dixtiince. 

Uenitxa  contaiutt,  I  was  tolil,  the  largest  Orange  grova 
in  tlttt  ifbind.  The  villj^e  and  the  Orange  orchard,  which 
latter  only  occupies  n  few  acres,  arc  Mtuated  in  a  smilin;* 
valley,  sheltered  on  every  side  except  on  the  soutli-cnsti  i 
where  it  reaches  the  sea.  Even  here  a  thick  Hi;ree»  of' 
CyprOM  treea  bad  becu  planted,  in  ordor  to  fonn  a  protec- 
tion Hf^ttinst  the  BOiitb-east  wind.  Notwithstanding  thu 
shelter  they  adorded,  the  Orange  trees  nearest  to  the  sen 
not  healthy,  tnuny  of  their  terminal  brandies  buinj; 
iflCM  aixl  dead. 

Thus  the  vi-^etation  of  Corfu  indicatea  a  climate  an 
n        soil  similar  in  tlieir  main  feiitureH  1<>  that  of  the  ooaat  lina- 
I       of  the  wcsteru  Kiviera  in  its  more  sheltered  retpons.     But 
L      thi»  similarity  only  exists  in  thu  protected  depressions  arul 
P       vnlli-ys  whvre  there  is  clearly  immunity  from  severe  wint«e 
I       ffosu,  with    int«iks«  aut!    continued    summer   hrBt>   and 


auelte 
^■Jnrtt: 

HMflei 

~      Th; 


298 


CORFU  AKD  THE  IONIAN  ISL4XD8. 


enough  rain  to  seouro  fertility.  Th»  u)  in3icai«d  by  the*' 
gttat  size  and  heaUliiness  of  the  Olive  and  Oraii^  trees, 
and  by  the  existence  of  some  ffood>sizcd  hcAllliy  Lcmoa 
tree*  in  the  opun  iiir.  Th"  Imter,  howovt-r,  arc  no  few  ia 
numbi-r,  niid  »a  limited  to  t!idroii|rhly  ■licltei-vd  Incut itit-n, 
that  it  is  evident  tlie  winter  frost*  are  more  severe  generally 
than  on  the  Itivicra  beltvcon  ^  ice  and  San  Kemo,  where, 
tm  we  have  iiL<cti,  tlioy  are  found  in  grove*  or  ordiard*, 
eoverins  tl)e  luwer  sidea  of  the  nii>untain«  facjan  the  mu, 
iind  lully  exposed  to  eea  south  n-inde.  Ou  the  othir  hand, 
llie  hijjlier  regioiiK  of  Corfu,  exposed  to  the  eontinentul 
wliid^,  are  loa  fur  rrom  the  >ih(Uter  of  the  Albanian  nioun> 
tains  to  be  ihoroitghly  protected  thereby,  and  ooDsequentl/ 
pro^ent  the  vegetation  I'ound  about  iWO  feet  nhoye  the 
HIM  level  oil  the  Genoese  Kiviurn,  nnmvJy,  the  Maritime 
tind  Aleppo  Pine,  and  tlie  umia)  Medilcrmneaii  brushwood 
of  lime  rejjiuns,  Rosemary,  Thyme,  Myrtle,  Lealiwna, 
Cystus,  Jiinijier,  Olubuliiria,  Euphorbia. 

C-rfu  litivini;  been  «o  long  under  the  protectorate  of  the 
Kn^lioti,  ilM  eliiiiale,  iind  ^Epi-eiully  it«  winlvr  elimate,  has 
IjL-en  the  subject  of  much  Mltidy.     l>r.  Scorwby  JaclfKon,  ifl 
his  medical  climatology,  from  an  analysis  of  the  various' 
anthorilies,  pves  65°  *»  the  annual  mean  tempcraturf,  that 
of  Meiitonc  bcini'  fid*  80',  and  the  wint<.-r  m«-an,  Corfu,  u 
5S',  Mmt^me  beinji;  41'°.   TiieKC  means,  however,  aw  clciirly 
too  hi|;h,  bein;;  founded  on  observations  made  in  rooms  and 
verandahs,  itud  show  how  little  reliiince  can  be  placed  oa_ 
mere  thcrmomctrioiil  data,  looecljr  token,  apart  from  tlu 
obserralion  of  nature. 

Snou'  appears  on  the  Albanian  mountains  opposite  Corfirf 
by  the  end  of  November,  and  remains  until  tlie  betfinitiiiff 
of  May.  Oeciwionidly  the  ^ummite  of  St,  Salviidor,  io 
C'orfu  (11)00  feet),  ave  thinly  covered  n-ith  Know  for  several 
days  at  a  time.  North  eontinental  winds  comiof;  from  the 
onow'covered  mountains  of  Albania  in  winter  are  dry  and 
coll),  whikt  in  eitrnmur  thoy  arc  dry  and  tiot,  the  moiintaini 
beinfr  then  beitted,  baked  by  the  hud.  Winds  fixiin  the 
south  coming  from  the  sea  are  nUviiyti  moist;  moist 
mild  in  winter,  moist  and  but  in  summer. 

It  it  stated  by  Dr.  Davy  that  the  moTe  frt-qocnt  w 


THE  CLIMATE  OF  CORFU. 


299 


I 


At  CVrrii  in  wint«r  are  those  from  the  E.,  K.S.E.,  aii<l  S.G., 
whilst  the  MimmiT  winds  are  N.,  N.N.Ii.,  N,E.,and  E.N.R 
This  statvmvut  rL'qtiirGD  cxplaiiitttnii.  In  winter,  the  syste- 
mic winds  uii  the  nortli  nluin:  of  the  ML-dilffriiiioiiii  ure 
the  north  wiada.  It  is  tliey  ihat  produce  winWr;  with 
south  syU-mic  wiDds  blowint;  day  and  ii<t;ht  thoru  would 
be  no  winter,  not  even  in  IJccemlier,  Janniiry,  and  FVhniary. 
It' BCiuthwinda  are  observed  t4>predoininuto  at  that  e|t(K!h,auy> 
where  o«  tlie  north  shore  of  the  Mediterranean ,  tlicre  must 
le  tome  deception,  some  error  of  observation,  and  that  vrror  I 
disoovea-d  at  ^tonlone.  The  rva  breexi!  or  »li^ht  inonitoon 
produced  diirin;;  the  day  in  brilliant  sunny  weather,  by  the 
ikoatin^  of  the  const  line,  is  mistaken  for  a  south  wind.  So 
it  iniwt  liavc  bwn  at  Corfu.  The  air,  ntratied  by  the 
heating  of  tlie  lower  rc^ionit  of  the  limeitone  inoiitituins 
that  line  the  Albanian  coa&t,  rises  into  the  upper  atmospheric 
rei^ionK,  mid  the  son  air  rushes  in  to  Hll  the  pluce.  Thi» 
tvind  from  thu  xe.-i  in  often  nothing  rlKe  hut  a  northerly 
U'iiid  that  luui  gone  out  to  sea  ovi'rhciid,  from  th<i  t(>p  of 
tlie  hi^h  mouDtaina,  and  is  then  pulled  buck,  apparently  as 
n  soutli-ouet  or  sauth-we^t  wind. 

The  cxtrtcnve  of  northerly  winds  in  summer  is  ca«ily 
explained.  Cooler,  hmivier  nir  from  the  iroiintai:u(  of  the 
continent,  ruslieti  into  the  Mediterranean  busiii  at  the  const 
line,  and  near  it,  to  fill  the  vacutim  csused  by  the  heatin;; 
Mrejaction,  and  naxag  into  space  of  its  atmwphcrc.  Corfu 
lyinfc  some  mileii  out  at  sea  ix  within  the  inllucnoe  of  both 
plienomena.  It  feela  the  sea  breexn  makinj^  for  land  iu 
winter  as  a  local  south  wind,  and  it  nlno  Ms  in  summer 
the  winds  whieli  havceomo  from  the  summit  of  the  north 
mountains  aonie  ten  milen  distant. 

Acoonling  to  Dr.  Davy,  the  rainfall  ii  both  more 
Abaiidaiit  and  more  continuous  at  Corfu  than  on  the 
western  Riviera,  »  fact  which  is  nt  once  explained  by  its 
insular  position  and  by  its  diotunec  from  the  coant.  From 
■  table  uonslmeted  by  Dr.  Davy,  on  an  average  of  three 
yeurs  (|Hi3-!io),  the  nunihcr  of  rainy  days  in  the  year  ore 
103;  the  averaj^  in  eaeh  month  us  follows: — January, 
Jl-tl;  February,  11-3;  Mnreli,  13;  April,  l.tl);  May.  1 ; 
June,  6;  July,8-3;  AuguMl,U(J;  September, ()-6;  OoUtber, 


soo 


CORPTT  AND  THE  IONIAN   ISLAXDiL 


10'3;  NovomW,  106;  December,  13-St  IoIbI,  103-a. 
the  remarkable  feature  in  thiii  table  is  not  the  amount  of 
rain  at  the  autumiial  and  vernal  c-^uinoice,  btit  it«  pox- 
BJittcnce  throughout  the  wintftr  months,  Di-ocmlicr,  January, 
t^nd  February.  The  explanation  iippoara  t<i  nio,  that  Corfu, 
beinfT  some  miles  out  nt  sea,  is  mure  in  the  battle-fieUl  of 
thu  north  and  eoutb  winds  than  the  Uiviorn  coiict  line,  and 
pn>bably  thim  thu  Albanian  cnnMt  line.  Very  oHen  in 
winter  ut  Mentone,  a*  I  have  elsewhere  stated,  uark  donds 
lank  up  on  the  horizon  about  t«n  miles  Ironi  land,  and  it 
rail):*,  evidently  in  torrents,  although  «u  at  the  foot  of  the 
moiiiitiiiiiK  are  in  xun?^hin<;.  The  cau*c  la  a  oiillii^ion  between 
cold  northerly  wind*  from  the  land  mountains,  and  urnrin 
rmoiiit  air  out  at  sea.  It  has  often  oecurrcd  to  me  that  an 
'tflland  t«u  mile*;  out  nt  hui  on  the  Kiviera  Goa*t  would  have 
many  more  rniny  duyn  in  winter  than  we  have,  and  CoHu 
appears  to  realize  this  fact.  Although  so  near  the  norUi 
shore  of  thu  MediterniDenn,  the  fact  of  it«  bein^f  out  at 
■M  no  doubt  modifies  tho  climate.  When  looking  at  tlie 
beautiful  Allaniitn  mountninu  from  Corfu,  it  struck 
in«  that  the  n-al  sheltered  health  climate  would  be  on 
tinit  cottet.  On  in'^uiry,  I  found  Ih.-it  I  was  right  iu 
my  tfunjecturw,  and  titnt  Ornnge  and  liunion  tree*  grow 
much  more  luxiiriantlyat  the  loot  af  the  Albanian  mountain^^ 
Ihan  in  any  of  the  Ionian  isUnds,  f^M 

What  with  the  cold  tnow  winds  frnm  Iho  Albanian 
mountains,  with  the  moisture  of  the  nouthern  winds,  and 
with  IIk-  frequent  rainfall  from  collisions  between  the  two, 
it  HeetnM  that  Corfu,  lovely  us  it  is,  is  not  n  dcMrahU-  winter 
residence  for  consumptive  and  bronuliiol  invatida.  Such,  at 
least,  seems  to  be  the  opinion  of  those  who  have  atadied 
and  described  tho  climate  from  actual  eiperiencc.  to  tboM, 
however,  who  without  being  absotntcly  ill,  merely  want  to 
avoid  the  northern  cold,  and  to  find  relaxation,  in  ya4>litirm>, 
ptjng,  lishing, shooting,  driving,  riding,  walkiui;,  b.itfaing, 
glorious  ecen«ry  and  in  a  mild  climate,  with  Englivh 
comforts,  a  winter  ut  Corfu  would  no  doubt  lie  very  agrw- 
oble.  To  thu  spring  tourist,  more  espeeiully,  Corfu  and  the 
Ionian  islands  opirn  out  a  clorioua  source  of  ([Wet  enjoy- 
(Dent  in  April  and  May.     Formerly  it  was  very 


dilTieult  t^ 


T0TA08  PROM  CORFU  TO  ATHENS. 


301 


get  to  Corfu,  utd  th«  traveller  had  to  pnsa  Bereral  days  and 
nj^kta  at  sea.  Nnw  a  day'a  eaay  journey  from  Rome  by 
rail,  or  two  from  Turin  or  Mibn,  brin^  liim  to  Brindiai, 
•nd  one  <]tii«t  night  in  a  ^tad  steamer  completes  tlie 
jourtit-y  to  Corfu.  I  shall  beat  convey  my  approciiitioii  of 
tbe  beauty  of  Corfu,  by  addinf^  ibnt  it  is  ODC  of  llie  few 
(pots  on  the  McdiU-nvtitiim  lo  wbioh  I  should  be  f;lad  to 
return  any  April  and  May,  merely  for  the  enjoyment  of 
"  physival  oxi«tence."  AtWr  May  tliv  weather  becontes 
too  hot  to  be  Bprcciible.  >tor«ov«r,  matariuus  fevers  appear, 
U  in  nil  Uie  islands  of  the  Medttvrraneao. 


TUl:  VOYaOB   from  COBfU  -TO  ATBRN». 

On  the  evening  of  tho  SOth  of  April  wc  left  Corfu  for 
Athens  by  a  email  Greek  steamer,  which  [>crtormH  the  voyage 
ooce  ft  wt^vk  in  forty-eight  boiini,  touehiii;;  at  several  islands 
on  th«  way,  I'axo,  Ci'pludoniu,  and  Zantv,  and  nli^ilin(; 
nt  Patrus  and  Corinth.  Thiv  is  the  only  steamer  thai  takes 
tliifl  route,  establUhing  a  weekly  comraunioation  between 
iiie  ifllnndii,  and  Icccpinf;:  near  the  coast,  and  in  partial 
ilii'lter  all  the  way.  It  entails  tmnsshipincnt  at  the  iKthniOK 
of  Coriiilb,  and  to  avoid  this  all  other  steamers  go  round  the 
Morea  ur  Peloiionnexus,  to  aceompU»ih  which  they  have  to 
jljiMi  ont  to  sea.  As  in  our  eyes  the  traniehipnient  was  u 
^positive  ndvantAge,  for  it  ^^avc  as  seven  mites  of  ffrrn  firma 
"tntTclling,  wc  did  not  hexitatc  to  confide  oureelves  to  the 
Greeks.  On  taking  our  place^i  wo  wcr«  mtieli  pleased  to 
r«oeive  a  qnarto  printed  page  of  instructions  in  mudcrn 
'<Jr«elt,  so  very  like  the  old  that  it  was  quite  easy  to  make 
it  out  with  a  little  assi&ljince  fh)m  local  IVI('nd«. 

Ttie  vvening  was  calm  and  beautiful,  and  we  once  more 
etnoyed  gliding  nnoolhly  along  under  the  Ice  of  the  ftrand 
Albanian  mountains,  for  steaming  in  the  MciHieN 
nuioan  in  culm  weather  is  altoi^cthcr  et\joyab1e.  Night 
gradually  came  on,  the  lights  of  itundry  lighthouses 
a]>pcar<;(),  and  wc  soon  passed  the  most  southeni  point  of 
Corfn,  At  ten  wc  reached  Pflxo,  an  island  almut  fifteen 
milei  distant,  and  hero  we  stopped  to  tuke  in  paseeugcrii 


p 


302  COSrO  AND  THB  IONIAN  ffilANIW. 

nnrl  to  land  cnrgo,  wilh  ^rcnt  commotioiif  Babel  of  tonfjne/ 
and  apparmt  coiif'iiNioit ;  nil  verj'  pioLiii-CHmie  and  iiita-J 
rMlinij.     Once  more  otl',  we  retired  for  the  niRlit. 

Wv  lind  n  stretch  oY  open  twa  of  abont  a  hundred  mile 
lo  ToaUe  Wfiirc  mictiing  thn  chniinel  that  separates  Ce»ha- 
lonia  Trom  Znnti;,  the  most  trying  |>nrt  of  the  vovape.  'llut 
pnxsed.n  kind  ofinti'mnl  sea  is  reached,  shdtvrvd  by  these 
tn-o  ixliiiiilii,  by  the  Mun'ii  and  bv  the  maiulaiid.  Dumig 
the  niJ;h^  a  stioii^  wind  from  tbo  north-vrest  rose,  and  we 

f;i)t  a  pood  tuFsiiij;,  but  theGroeIc  VMscl,  althangh  not  voryi 
atso  uiid  not  vary  duan,  proved  a  good  sea  hoat,  and  iv«[ 
rouehod  the  romparatively  quiet  water*  of  the  em  of  >^Dt«| 
by  tiaoa,  th«  folbiwing  day,  ntoppin];  an  liour  at  Ccpbalonia^ 
and  the  same  at  Xnle.     Thvoe  Ktoppa^ea  were  welcome^ 
for,  although    in  an  all  but   land-lucked  eea,  there  was  a' 
dcut  inort-  motion  than  n-<M  pU'iiimnt.     Indued,  vro  luarnt 
aAerwardii  at  Athenn,  that  a  perleet  hurricane  waa  lilowiog 
0iit8i<le  that  Bame  day,  miicli   lo  the  misery  of  the  paa- 
eengei-s  of  a  large  Austrian  Lloyd  steamer  that  left  at  thai 
same  time  that  we  did.  ' 

All  this  day  wc  were  skirting  the  islands  of  Cephalonia 
and  Ziintc,  generally  near  onoumh  to  the  land  to  be  able  to 
Bcrutinizo  it  with  or  witbmit  a  -^laM.  Tliu  geiieni]  ftratum 
of  the  island*  appeared  everywhere  the  same,  uali'areona 
roakB  and  mountainous  elevations,  apparently  naked,  but 
in  reality  covered  with  scanty  brushwuod,  with  here  and 
there  patches  of  Conifers,  or  }^rc«  of  Olive  trees,  acoording 
to  elevation,  protection  from  the  north,  and  nature  of 
surface.  At  each  inland  at  which  wo  slopped  bouts  camo 
out  to  tlie  xtcamcr  ivith  basUelM  of  oranges  and  or  tlower* : 
Aosc»,  Banksias,  Teas,  hybrid ;  Carnationa,  Stocks,  Iris, 
Delphinium,  bespeaking  summer  and  fertility  in  hidden 
valleys,  ruviiicn,  nookti,  corm-rs  »hellercd  from  the  wind; 
for  nothing  of  the  kind  was  to  be  seen  from  the  sea,  only 
the  occasional  patches  of  Conifers  and  Olive  trees  in  ttia 
plains,  with  naked  rocks  and  mountuins  cverywhcTv.  It 
nppriircd  an  it',  wherever  the  north  winds  touch,  they 
act  ually  peel  the  rocks  of  nil  tree  vegetation.  Thcwi  islands 
ap|H.'arcd  to  reproduce  Corfu,  but  with  l(«s  fertility  and 
more  rocky  burrcnuess.   OpuutiaK  aud  Alocd  were  seen  ueari 


PATItAS— I6THMC8  OV  OORISTH. 


308 


. 


every  ritb^  or  Iowa.  AeeanVing  to  M.  OrplinniJrs  of 
Alliens,  tlie  Aloe  vuljfare  is  found  wild  iu  Griicoi;,  and  is 
tm-Dttbiifd  tjy  Diof^coriiU'si. 

Tliut  cvoniii;;  w<-  liiiiili-il  nt  Pntnis,  at  the  cntmnoc  orthc 
(}u)rofLepanto,whi«h  presents  a  background  ofmagnifioent 
snow-covervd  moanUins,  nud  rcmninod  i\\QTe  two  hours, 
iDUv))  to  our  cntitriiction.  It  w  »  miscrubic  little  town  of 
■mall  houses  ami  shops  alone  the  shore,  and  on  each  side 
of  a  lonj;  street  at  ri^ht  an^lee  to  the  latter.  Considering 
that  Putrns  i»  the  c«ntro  of  Uio  lucnitivo  "  currant"  trndo, 
I  waa  surprised  to  find  no  g^reat^r  evidencew  of  prosperity. 
The  Di;;ht  was  passed  in  sleep  stesminj;  quietly  up  th« 
OulforLejuinto,  tranquil  nx  «  river,  although  tho  wtud  wan 
bon-lin^  in  the  moiinlatns  tbat  skirt  the  giilt'.  At  i]iiy- 
liltht  we  arrived  at  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth.  Tlie  (own  of 
CorintJi  is  no\v  merely  rcproscnttd  by  n  fi-w  wrdclied 
hwww,  but  n-«  wtre  »huwn  the  site  of  the  eeluliriiti-il  city 
of  Grecian  history,  lli-re  the  poasengcrH  left  tlie  IVioiiilly 
ship  and  crossed  the  i^tlimu^  in  less  tliun  an  hour,  seven 
miles.  Thcr«  is  scarot^'ly  iiny  ri^t^,  and  n  xhip  oaniit  could 
be  easily  mude,  and  I  Hhoiitd  say  without  ^real  cipensc. 
The  soil  is  schistic  and  covered  with  a  brushwood  of 
Lentiscufl,  Junipor,  ilwarf  Ilex,  Asphodel,  and  Ferula.  The 
country  was  clearly  in  the  possession  of  bri^nd^,  for  we 
had  an  escort  of  mounted  soldiers  before  and  behind  the 
carriafTCB,  and  there  were  guardhouwe  and  picquets  ut 
every  mtic  alou^;  the  rou*!,  with  afouts  between.  It 
^avc  ut  quite  an  elevated  idea  of  our  ovta  importance,  to 
be  tliiu  escorted  and  protected,  and  we  appreciated  the  fact 
that  wo  really  had  arrived  in  the  country  so  plea«nnt1y  and 
amufingly  duaeribed  by  M.  About  in  his  /tot  de»  Montagnet. 
The  inthmus  crossed,  we  erobArked  on  a  smaller  stefimer, 
and  by  midday,  after  ptissiRg  Sulamis,  arrived  at  the 
PinviM. 

It  It  worthy  of  remark  that  during  the  last  twenty-four 
faours  of  our  vorage.  a  bitter  c<>ld  north-w€«t  wind — a 
rei^ilar  mistral  a»  we  Khould  call  it  on  the  Kivicni— had 
bern  blowing,  which  obliged  ua  to  use  all  our  wraps.  This 
cold  wind  revealed  the  weak  point  of  tho  climate  of  tliese 
islattds,  and,  ss  I  afterwards  learnt  of  Athcnt  and  of  Oreeoe 


I 


804 


GREECE  AND  THE  ARCHIPELAOa 


generally :  vist.,  cold  winds  from  the  nortbent  totohs  <1urinj 
the  lint  four  iiiontli«  dt'  the  year,  tliut  is,  from  Clitistmas  t4 
May.  At  I'atnis  ihcre  were  6till  Urge  pntchvs  of  mov  on 
•the  mountiiinK  imni<;iliati-ly  hvliind  lliu  towns  with  n  uorth- 
west  ttii]ii.-ct,  flj)])iirenUy  at  an  elevation  of  about  4000  feet. 


ATIIKNS. 

The  Pineus,  where  we  lauded,  the  part  of  ancient  and 
modem  Athon«,  in  a  «iro  hartxtur,  protected  hy  the  inliind 
of  Sitlnmin,  the  Morea,  and  by  the  configuration  of  the 
cfl^Rt.  }^^ch  ports  attract  mariners  nnd  commerce  in  all 
afifcs.  Infitvud  of  tlti-  great  commcK'iol  iind  niivul  emporium 
of  former  days,  there  is  now  merely  a  suhurb  of  small  one 
and  tno  storied  bouses:  wine  eho|w,  murine  storua,  atMl 
1odgin};-hoii<v«.  It  is  connected  with  Athens,  five  miles 
distant,  by  a  ruilvray  with  a  sinjjcle  line. 

Athens,  lat.3S*4S',  was  rorlyyearsagoamereTnrkish^built 
villaKe  or  small  town,  of  lou,-  one-storied  hoHsca  in  narrow 
street*,  the  remains  of  which  euit  he  still  i'l-eti  iicjir  the 
rnilway  »latit)n.  In  ISiii  it  wan  prncbimt-d  the  capitnl  of 
tlio  modern  kin|^om  of  Greece,  and  a  new  town  has  been 
built  north  of  tlie  old  one,  between  it  nnd  the  btise  of  the 
AcropoUa  rocif,  on  which  is  situated  the  Parthenon.  This 
new  town  may  be  compared  to  a  small  English  or  Freodt 
country  town,  n-iUi  small  two-etoricd  modem  houses  a 
u  high  street  in  the  centre,  ascending  a  hill,  at  t 
Bommtt  of  which  is  a  f;ood*«tzvd  sciuare.  The  basement 
occupied  by  the  king'K  pnliiec,  a  factory-looking  parall 
locraraio  building  surrouniied  by  gardens.  Ou  the  sides  of 
this  square  several  streets  abut,  at  tiie  angles  of  which  are 
tome  good  boux^s.  Several  of  them  are  occupied  by  very 
comfortable  hotels.  In  the  side  streets  nf  modern  Atlteos 
there  are  some  good  buildings,  amongst  oUiers  the  Univer- 
sity and  the  Post  OfHcc.  On  tho  whole,  there  is  an 
appearance  of  life  and  of  niodcru  provincial  prosperity  about 
Atliens,  but  httle  or  nothing  to  remind  the  traveller  of 
the  celebrated  Greek  city  of  former  days,  except  the  ruins. 
These  ruins,  situated  ut  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  are  not 
numerous.     The  Pjirthenon,  or  Temple  of  the  \'irgiu  God< 


I 


ATHENS — RtnNB — VEfiETATION. 


305 


I  Minerra.  the  Erectheam,  bnilt  or  the  hard  whit«  marlde 
of  PeutelicuB,  the  Propylau,  tat  on  the  AcropolU  rock, 
the  eit«  of  till.-  oil)  Cecropian  fortress,  which  ovurlooks  kikI 
OrowDH  the  city.  They  are  proliably  the  most  oliiwte  ■■«] 
beautiful  ruins  extant,  an<l  wull  wurthy  ol  »  special  visit 
all  the  TCuy  to  Athvim,  There  is  also  the  templu  of  Thweus 
in  wondi'rfutly  good  repair,  ronei<li:nng  thni  it  wiu  Imilt 
470  ux.  Thcro  aru  «till  a  fuiv  grand  ooliimns  remaining 
of  tho  Tcmphi  of  Jupiter,  the  portico  of  Hadrinn,  nnd 
but  little  else  worth;  of  notice  excci>t  from  unti<iiiariaii 
associations. 

The  plain  in  whicli  Atlieiui  in  nituated  i*  nix  miW  wide, 
ftnd  ia  formed  by  two  parallel  mountain-ridges  about  iQlHl 
feet  high,  which  descend  east  and  west  to  the  sea  of 
SslamU.  The  towit  lieit  at  thv  foot  of  the  Acropolis  nxib, 
itxi'lf  a  dpiir  at  the  l)aae  of  the  eaMtvrn  ridij;e.  In  the 
centre  of  the  valley  ia  a  grove  or  wood  of  Olive  trees,  with 
vine*  planted  between  tiiem,  irri^tcd  by  small  strcamf. 
Small  as  are  these  Athenian  titii.»me,  they  beu  very  cule- 
bnited  numc«,  for  they  are  no  other  Ihun  the  IlisBii*  on 
the  east  side  of  the  (own,  nnd  the  Cephtsus  on  the  west. 
It  WBB  in  the  shade  of  these  very  olive  groves  that  Pluto, 
Aristotle,  Socnte*,  and  the  other  sagos  ami  uratnm  of 
ancient  Oreeoe  walked  and  taught  tlieir  pupils;  so  it  is 
very  soered  ground.  The  rest  of  the  Attica  plaiu,  lieyond 
the  olive  erovcs,  is  ctdtiviited  with  grain  of  diHcronl-  Uiiide, 
or  left  fiaUow.  The  soil  •ecma  very  poor  anil  (xliiiiislcd 
from  want  of  manure  and  proper  treatment. 

After  dcvoti.ig  tlie  first  morning;  to  the  world -renowned 
niina,  I  directed  my  i>ti'{i!i  in  tiiu  alHernoon  to  tlii.-  IJotanical 
Gurdea,  in  the  pinin.  Here  I  made  the  aL'<|iieintaucc  of 
the  director,  M.  Orphanidcs.  Professor  of  Uottny  in  the 
university,  one  of  thu  moKt  kiinied  hotanistit  in  Europe, 
who  kindly  showed  me  liin  eetablisliroeut.  A  part  only  is 
devotitl  to  botiinicnl  piirpoRCB,  nnd  appears  merely  intended 
U>  illuNtmte  the  nnturnl  fumilies  for  the  instruction  of  the 
IMBpilB  of  the  university.  The  grcit^r  part  of  the  garden  is 
a  nuTMry  for  the  propagation  (it  I'niit  nnd  other  trees,  such 
(M  Mulberry  trees,  calculated,  hy  their  disseminiition 
throughout  the  country,  to  favour  its  social  and  conimereiul 


30G 


GREECE  AND  THE  AKiCntPKLABO. 


lirocpcritv;  llipy  are  sold  at  lO  centime!*  (a  iiciiny) 
tj)  ii)I  m)i()  apply,  Tlu-  (;urtlpQ  was  the  scene  of  luxuriuii 
veg:otal toil,  but  then  llio  Hnil  was  |;ood  nnd  dmp,  that  of 
the  centre  of  the  pUin,  there  was  plenty  of  wati;r,  un<l 
liietly,  and  principally,  it  was  surrnundetl  by  a  wull  iO  (ett 
high  to  the  niJi-th,  10  ft-et  on  the  other  (ridi*.  The  Orsn^ec 
and  Ijcmoii  trecA  w«r«  rxrarly  atl  plaiil«d  ou  the  aonth  huIq 
of  the  north  wall,  protected  by  which,  they  grevi  aitd 
flniiri<ih('il,  hut  not  hy  miy  m*an*  as  nt  Corfu.  There  were 
Reifcn"  iif  trees  niid  of  ever|;r«eii)i  aUo,  in  many  pUcvs,  to 
break  the  wind.  Tlie  pyramidal  Cypress  ia  much  u»ed  all 
over  Sotithem  Ftirope  lor  this  pnr]ioee.  The  other  plants 
priiicirntHy  employed  an  Nctvetia  were  SchinuH  Mnlli,  Aleppo 
Piue,  buotiymiis  japonica,  Carouha,  Ilex,  Ailnntnx  glandu- 
Idb».  Roci'S  n-crc  in  full  Honcr,  Chromntclhi  shining  nbora 
all  olherw  ax  a  vHnib(T.  Thin  it  dnM  all  over  thv  Sotith  of 
Europe;  in  Alfteria  I  have  Been  one  plant  fdl  a  tree.  Out 
nurserymen  do  not  seem  to  know  it  as  one  of  the  most 
Inxuriatit  Teu  climbpr^,  beatiii**  wen  the  Gloirc  dv  Dijon. 
All  the  hybrid  lUmiv  weiv  in  full  flower,  ex  also  IX-lphinium, 
Poppv,  Linum  ndirutn,  much  ^(Tonrn  in  the  South,  Collinnia, 
Aquilqtioi  Sweet  Pea,  I'ittosprjnim,  quite  a  tree,  OleandeTfj 
the  same,  not  yet  in  flower,  Campaniilu. 

Bchin>l  the  King's  judacc  there  id  a  i^arden  of  many  ncreaJ 
bI  the  o- re  urn  fere  nee  of  whiob  is  a  deep  thicket  of  everjfreen 
trees,  as  a  screen  or  protection,  with  the  tlowers  and 
Atinintite  all  ^^uned  in  the  centre.  The  trees  ami  flowers 
went  the  aame  as  tnose  in  the  fiot^inic  Gardens.  Jasmiitnm 
rerolatuni  was  in  i;reat  hixurianoc,  forming  ]nTffv  busliea. 
Ftowcna  in  thif  region  KC«.*m  to  be  treated  like  vej^tablcK  in 
a  good  Scotch  kileheu  irarden  in  the  bleak  North,  which 
is  f^nerally  siirroinided  by  a  hi<;h  wall.  Oivrn  such  pro- 
tection, they  tlirive  everywhere  in  this  liitilmie,  and  appear 
front  fix  to  eight  weeUti  sooner  than  they  would  in  our. 
own  toulliem  or  midland  counties. 

The  roads  about   Athens  ore   planted    with  avenues 
Si-hinus   Midii,  I'opuhiii  alba,  Ailantus  ^landulosa,  Aoaoiflf! 
Ih-x,  nnd  Caroiiba.    The  latter  does  not  si-cm  to  thrive  ns  a  ' 
mild  tree,  as  I  found  uWo  thtj  enseal  Algicra,  but  tliefonnflr 
flourish  and   liceomu  large  trees   in  the  driest  and    taott 


ATHENS— VEGETATION — CLIMATE. 


307 


exposed  eituKtioiiK.     ThU  rcinnrk  appliei  specially  to  the 
^Dpulu*  nlliii  and   to  the  Ailantiis,  which   glury  in   the 
iliinate,  with  iu  dry  fiumm«r.     The  AiluntiM  i*  Lw^inningf, 
I  was  told,  to  1)C  uxlvnvivcly  cultiviilwl  t'ur  its  woud. 

The  Orange  trees  were  bewlthy,  but  rather  email,  when- 
ever seen,  ana  their  hei};ht  was  etrictly  limited  hy  that  uf 
the  prot«s:tin(;  widl  or  tix-e  bclt«.  In  IVoiil  of  the  kiD^f's 
pnlno)  they  were  luoetly  plinted  iu  a  deep  depression  or 

Sit,  dearly  to    shelter  them  from  the  wind.      Pmrev^nr 
iTpfaanides   Ehowwl    me   in    hiii   privat«   gardi-n   u   tiiost 
intiTcKtiii);  collection  of  more  than  two  hundred  diirercnt 
i»necii»ofAuTaoti»,  all  small,  but  well-^otvn,  in  full  lift* and 
vigour.     He  told  mc  there  wltc  thrvc  hundred  re>xi^niscd 
ius  in  exiKteiiec     T  must  add  ihut  I  do  not  remember 
inguPalm;  Aloes  are  commrjii. 

The    above    hotanii-al  facte  prove   that  Athens  and  its 
yioinity,  althongh  iiitiulcd  nearly  five  degrees  more  to  the 
South    than  tlie  Western  Kiviera,  do  not  enjoy  tlic  wtme 
■mount  of  protection  from  north   winda  nnd  am  ooldi-r  in 
winter,  althoui^i  the  general  character  of  the  winter  climate 
the  earoo.     That  it  ahoidd  he  so  is  <-A»ily  linderstood  on 
kins  at  the  mup.     Behind,  direct  north,  AttJcu  ik  pro* 
teeted  by  Mount  I'anies  and  Mount  Cilhieron,  and  also  by 
the  niountitina  of  Koumelia ;    hut   to  the  north-eaet  the 
SDOUntaiuoutt  peninsula,  formed  by  Alhunia,  Koumelia,  and 
[^e  MoTM,  is  exposed  to  cold  north-east   wind*  from  tlia 
~  idt  8m,  and  to  the  wowt  to  cold  north-west  winda  frora 
boAdriatJo.     Moreover  Athena  ia  situated  at  some  dis- 
tant from  the  more  immediately  protecting  mountains  at 
itabMk. 

TheM  facta  roco{;niKed  and  acknowled^,  we  finil  in  tho 
dimata  of  Attica  all  tlie  climate  charueteristics  of  the  north 
•bora  of  tlie  Mediterranean:  cold  north  wiiidii,  pollened 
however  by  the  Black  nnd  .E^cnn  seas,  by  the  Adriatic  and 
Ionian  seas,  a  pur<^  blue  fky  and  ardent  aunshina  in  winter, 
and  intense  heal  in  summer.     Such  a  climatii,  althoii"h  n 

C Wealthy  and  braeiii;;  one,  iMnnot  bo  reooamencted  to 
invalids,  and  eapeeialty  to  ohtwt  invnli<U,  as  a  winter  resi- 
dence. It  eaniiut  be  eonsidered  a  fuvounible  apeeiineii  of 
the  bracine,  invigoraling  chmates  of  the  more  shultL-i«d 
I : 


308  ORBSCB  AND  THE  ARCHIPELAOO. 

TO);ioDs  of  thf.  Meditcnnneao,  iiItlioa<>h  p^rtiiininf;  to  Ibc 
sonio  clusK.     The  prot«cti«n  ftttm  the  north  it  in^uSicient, 

1  intcniK'it  to  ]i«ve  visited  the  many  scetie-H  of  iiiton^t  in 
All  tea  wKhiii  4'iuy  rwK'h  of  Atlicnii,  but  the  ctioturhed  Ktate 
of  the  ivxiritrjr  prevented  my  to  doing.  The  bn[;an<)s  were 
considered  to  be  dangerons,  even  within  u  mile  or  two  of 
the  town,  nnd  «  Oovvrnment  notice,  which  hno^r  u|>  in  the 
hsll  of  Die  Hotel,  wbh  not  cnlculitted  to  tn^ipire  confidetx^e. 
Herein  it  was  stated  that  all  straniiers  wtuhing  to  vifiit  the 
vicinity  of  Athens  were  beaffed  to  opply  to  the  proper 
»nthoritie«  for  an  c*cort,  and  on  iin  accuunt  to  venture 
alone.  HaviiifC  no  ^teat  conliden<rt!  in  the  vidonr  of  tJio 
ewxirt.  and  not  wishing  to  share  the  fate  of  our  nnfur> 
tnniite  countrymon  murdered  at  Msrntkon,  I  prelerred 
stayin;;  within  the  runeie  of  tmrctv.  One  mornin-^  thers 
was  A  great  commotion  at  the  kind's  palace,  and  on 
intpiiring  the  m»tive  thorenf  wc  were  told  that  the  king, 
qni-eh,  iind  children  liutl  "inm't  imprudently,"  without 
siiying  n  word  to  iinyon*!,  driven  off  alone  to  picnic  in 
H'lmi^  xliady  place  in  the  vicinity,  and  that  fearti  were  ent4>r- 
taiiieil  ri'sipecting  them  1  A  company  of  mounted  soldieni 
were  sent  oif  in  IrHntii:  hnste  niter  them,  and  the  king  and 
hix  family  were  brought  back  in  safety  and  in  triumph. 
Hod  the  l)ri([«ndB  gni  hold  of  them  it  would  certainly  have 
l>een  a  ^aod  haul.  Such  a  otatv  of  things,  Itowcvor,  is  very 
din^mccful. 

My  traTcllin!;  friend,  the  Grcel;  gentleman,  who  hn<l 
Dceoinpanied  me  from  Rnndi^i,  wan  at  the  FNmo  hotel, 
and  I  Kiw  liim  dally.  But  hr  had  iiwt  all  hix  hiioyancr  of 
s|)irita;    day   by   day  his  countenance  Wame   more  de< 

i)r(>ssed,  and  before  we  purlml  he  confided  to  me  that  hia 
ong-cherishcd  plans  and  drcama  had  vanialied.  He  fouiHl 
hia  beloved  country  too  diti^organized  for  it  to  be  puMibta 
fur  him  to  return  to  it,  and  to  malte  the  settlement  Iw 
wished  to  make.  What  was  the  nw;  of  buying  nail  property, 
of  invcfrliiig  liard-uarnod  gains  in  land,  when  it  was 
dnngeronx  even  to  viait  one's  estates,  whi-n  tbe  entirg 
country  was,  as  tl  were,  in  Uio  hands  of  the  brit^iids.  His 
father  had  been  murdered  wlwn  he  was  a  child,  forty  years 
ago,  ill  a  boUMC  wkivh  ho  showed  me,  inside  the  town,  in 


: 


ATHENS — OOVERNttENT — BEIOANDS. 


309 


the  d«ad  of  the  ni);ht.  He  did  not  wtsb  to  cxpoec  hicnwlf 
nd  hw  family  to  the  satne  (ate ;  forty  yenrs  had  clupucd, 
and  tht!  brigand*  vren  Ktill  thvro. 

I  had  repealled  eoiivereutioiiti  with  other  woll-inrormed 
Allicniiiii  i^atloinen  on  the  diuturbt-d  political  slnlc  of  ihrir 
«ouutrv,  niid  lb>:ir  i-X[>binuliou  of  its  citiuiM  itppeured  lu  me 
reasonable  and  KsitMructury. 

The  alh*d  Uovi-rntiicnti,  in  founding  the  modern  king* 
dom  of  Or(!i.-c«,  mudo  a  most  egntgions  and  talol  inintalce. 
They  gsk\t:  to  the  Grauks  a  cotictiLiitioiiul  moiiiircliy,  with 
a  Chamber  elected  by  univenal  sulfrage,  the  roembcra  of 
which  had  no  property  qualitii^ttion,  anil  were  piiid.  Tliui 
to  be  a  member  ot  Ihi'  CiuimluT  beunme  a  busiunii,  a  carucr, 
and  the  ambition  of  brielloM  ymin^  iMrriMtere  and  of 
tgrtun<;lr>ri  men  ol*  g^oui  fsmily.  'I'hetc  candidates  for  thu 
Chamber,  having  nolhin;;  whitLever  to  do,  could  go  into 
the  provinoea  and  devote  monthn  to  gaining  the  ^oodivill 
oi'  till]  eloolord.  Ouee  eleut«d,  their  priiiuipal  object  (v»a 
not  ao  mtich  tiie  good  of  tbeir  country  m  to  make  a 
permanetlt  pooition,  a  lmn)j>  for  themavlvox.  Thenoe  a 
L^neral  acrumblc  for  places,  a  conKtant  fartnation  of  eoalt- 
jtions  to  upaet  thoM  in  office,  and  u  chanjte  of  Ministry  and 
'  of  all  tlupcndunt^  every  two  or  three  month",  or  evtrn 
ofteuer.  'I'h^re  wiu  no  remi^ly,  my  inforinanto  told  nie, 
but  an  alteration  of  the  constitution »  wliiub  was  ditBcult 
t«  (oeure,  for  it  would  have  to  be  effected  by  the  vxiKtiug 
[Chamber  ilxvlf.  Tliat  is,  its  memben  would  lmr«  to  m^^q 
their  own  death-worrnnis,  untl  hiiitory,  ancient  and  reitent, 
telU  UR  that  it  u  very  hard  to  induce  effete  Parlinmeiita 
anil  Cliambi-rs  to  diwulve  or  refurm  tbcmB<;lv<«. 

A^aiu,  instead  of  putting  lis  king,  ut  the  head  of  u  lur- 
boJcDt  oommunily,  on  whivh  «uch  a  dun>ceroua  experiment 
■•  oonatitutional  monareliy  with  universal  siitlnce  was 
alxMil  to  be  tried,  a  atern  middle-aged  cxperiettced  man, 
two  amiable  but  oolourlen  youth*  have  been  cliosun  in  sue* 
eeaiiion.  The  mudern  Greeks  rei{uire  a  kinj;  stern  enough 
to  ahoot  down  the  brit^nda  like  vermin,  witli  a  drumhead 
oonrt  martial,  out  amiable  young  men  ho  tlion>u:;b)y  am- 
atitational  a«  to  lenTC  the  country  to  take  care  of  it«eif',  and 
to  accept  a  new  Miuialry  every  aix  or  ten  weuka. 


810 


QRRROS  AND  THE  ARCHIPIvLAOO. 


Daring;  mj  Ktny  at  Atlicnn  Itivro  wm  a  gmnd 
nl  tli«  nodern  Cathedral,  n  very  ImndAome  wlifice,  at 
till'  king,  tlic  queen,  and,  I  presume,  most  of  th«  di)ftiit«riea 
oF  the  State  wen.*  pr«ont.  1  wns  pcifeetly  iiduizmI  und 
daxzled  by  the  number  uf  jrenerul  ofDceni,  cofpneU,  cuptnina 
and  fidmii-als,  and  other  dipnitariea,  who  were  preeent  i& 
goi-gecim  iiTiit'orms.  It  ivally  mij{lit  hnvp  been  W<«t> 
minater  Abl»-y  or  Notre  ]>iim«.  On  linking  a  (•reck  fttcnd 
where  was  tlie  anny,!  where  was  the  tieet  for  all  these 
hiitidreds  of  oflGcere  of  hi;;h  rank,  he  confewed  to  me  that 
they  did  not  vxiot,  but  he  atlded  that  thei*  higti  gT»d«*  in 
the  army  and  navy  eoiiEitituted  the  only  means  oi' reward- 
ing men  who  had  deserved  well  of  their  couotry  in  tha 
war  of  iiidcpciutcni.'e,  nnd  even  in  lnt«r  ycum. 

Siiuh  iH,  apparently,  the  key  to  the  preaent  nikaetUed 
state  of  Gieeee,  A  coitstilutional  mouarchy  with  advaiwed 
ri'publk-ai)  insli  tut  lone,  for  which  the  country  ia  utteriy 
ncipn'purcil  and  unlit;  nn  amtablvand  gentle, but  wcalcand 
irresolute,  king,  who  ha»  not  Klreufrlh  enough  of  will  or  of 
chiiracl<>r  to  even  endeavour  to  utera  the  torrent  around 
him  ;  a  host  of  civil,  milititry,  and  nav.il  pliici-meti,  p«nr  U 
Job,  and  Mi:ruml>Hn<>  fur  the  Iitll«  revenue  i>f  the  country, 
all  inti-'tit  ufMiii  getting  into  olliee  themitelvee  and  keeping 
ollicrH  out.  The  state  of  Greece  will  probably  contintw  as 
MnBi'ltlod  IIS  il.  now  i«  until  thiw  system  of  eovernment  is 
ohau^d,  until  theMe  error*  am  rt-medied;  but  who  is  to 
ehnn>;e  the  entire  political  and  social  or^nization  of  the 
kingdom?  In  the  mcjinwhili.-  brigands  oeeupy  the  cxmotfy 
up  to  the  gat«s  of  the  capital.  Agriculture  and  commerce 
arc  nccetisnrily  at  a  standstill,  and  the  most  patriotic 
ciipitiili^tK  avoid  the  country. 

I  iiimK-  oeveral  pliniaant  ac<juaintanues,  and  pimed  tlio 
greater  part  of  a  week  very  iigreeiibly.  There  is  a  halo  of 
antiquity  about  Athens  which  throws  an  iDdescribable 
inteivft  over  ttat  all  times.  The  Athenians  pro)>erdrMi 
prirt.ty  much  like  the  inhitbitimlM  of  Wcftem  Kumpe,  but 
in  the  streets  are  onHtantly  to  be  seen  Greeks  from  th« 
islands  or  the  mountains  in  their  picturesque  national  a 
coatumew,  familiar  to  ua  from  the  piuturua  and  viijj 
of  the  war  of  indcpeiidenoe. 


: 


iigravinga^J 


THE  ARCHIPELAGO — TILE  CYCLAUGS.         311 


TUK  GRBCUX   ABOni^KI.AGO. 


On  tlie  7th  of  August,  1872,  I  left,  the  Pirnnw  on  an 
Austrian  Ll<>yil  stVAinvr  l\ir  Curnfttmlinufilu,  i>iJ  Smyrna. 
Tbis  iviitv  rnnblcs  llic  Lravdlkr  to  i^t  a  glimpse  ofaevcral 
of  the  niuMt  iTU[iortant  isLiutLs  of  the  Grcciun  Archipelago, 
as  well  XH  of  Asia  Minor.  Tli«  viw«i;1h  of  llm  Austrian  lAoyil 
Been  to  be  the  ackn»wk'<l^.*<l  utid  acc-cplcxl  iiieilia  lA'  com* 
miiDioatJou  in  the  Kasti^ni  Mt?diterrane:in.  Thoy  are  g«ne- 
rally  ffpoA,  WL'II  kejb^  and  n-ell-oiH^^croJ  boats.  The  nnrth- 
;wat  wind  which  fia-J  rvi^ncd  ihiriiig  our  stay  at  Athcuit, 
tMnponii<;  ugrvcjihiy  th(!  ardour  of  the  sun'o  ruys,  had 
^bu ted,  and  weoncn  more  found  oiiraalves  j^lidiu;;  pltra^.iiitly 
pver  ftcalm  pcu.  Wc  hud  fmh^n'kvd  lulc  in  thu  uvoniii';, 
CDJuyed  a  good  iii^ht'«  ruat,  und  next  morning  found  our- 
■elvos  ill  tlie  oiidat  of  ttui  islamU  which  form  the  Urecian 
Arohipclago, 

The  term  Aruhtpclaf^o  hds  liuen  more  of^peuiully  Erivon, 
irom  liniu  inim<-mi>riul,  to  the  iiiliiotlri  whluh  utTiipy  the 
eontfirn  iieaiun  of  the  Mediterrintian,  iK'tween  Houniclia  in 
the  north  and  Ciiudia  in  the  south,  butwi.'ou  (iree<.'o  in  tho 
w>*t  and  Asia  Minor  in  ihir  I'lwl.  In  f<jrini!r  day*,  ux  miw, 
they  vem  divided  iuto  two  grouiid  :  tlie  Cyaladeit  auiir 
Europe,  and  the  i>porade§  near  Asia  Minor.  Tlie^c  tshnds 
an!  very  iiumeroue  ;  eume  uru  of  -^ud  sixi-,  but  the  •{real 
majority  are  Very  small.  The  nmaUiT  islandit  are  f{l^nerally 
mere  rocks  rUint;  out  of  the  ^ea,  U|i|iareully  harrttn,  hut  in 
reality  covered  with  Med i terra u on n  bnuih\vood.  Some  are 
of  vuK-unii;  <i[i;;iu,  hut  the  gicaU-r  immWr  are  cido  irroux, 
and  are  oftvn  oumixisud  of  a  beautiful  nhilo  marhk-,  v,  for 
intitanoo,  Paroa,  whence  tho  Parian  marble  wan  iiiid  is 
ohtitined.  The  lar;;<.-r  ishLtidtt.  in  whieh  there  is  proU-clion 
from  wind,  are  tolorably  fertile.  They  are  nearly  all  thinly 
inhabited,  pnnci|ially  by  aailora  aod  lishermen,  nwin^,  no 
doubt,  to  their  rocky  diarauter  and  to  the  auiall  uniotmt 
of  eulliviiblc  soil  they  vontnin  in  tbe  valli^ya.  They  look 
H  very  pictureniiue  from  the  Mtii,  riKiug  out  of  iu  depth*  as 
I  huge  rooks,  or  aa  j-i^^ed  irre^iihir  mountainous  isl.)iid«, 
I         with  bold  coalite,  doep  inlets,  and  precipitous  )>romuutoriuii. 


m 


THE  ARcnrPEI-ACO — THE  CYCLASES. 


^^. 


titc  olevatioD  var^-ing  from  1000  or  1500  to  £U00  feet  or] 
nmro. 

Wlii'n  I  ranched  tbo  deck  we  wera  nmninf*  along  the 
coast  ol"  Thiirroiii,  which  fully  rcalixcd  tlic  sIjovc  gviivntl 
(le§(.'ri])tion,  for  it  seemed  a  roL'lcy,  inounUiooiut  iidMKi, 
iil)p«ri'nUy  barren.  We  then  parsed  between  Tberroia  and 
Zlm,  Koulh  nf  a  thin)  isliind  wvU  named  Jurn,  for  il  aonn, 
Juia-like,  alwve  the  sn-a,  and  cuiiie  to  at  midday  in  Um) 
harbour  of  Sym.     Heiv  we  remained  until  vix  e.u,,  nvhichj 

ve  iiG  time  to  land  and  louk  uboub  us,  a  great  exoit«iDeDtJ 

d  joy  to  the  lunowngcni. 

Syra  i»  a  small  inland,  crcseent  uliaped,  ahout  four  milMl 
WJdfl  and  two  in  dofilh.     It  is  a  mei-e  rock,  some  600  feet 
high  at  the  hi);lie»t  point.    The  opening  of  the  cresecnt 
is  turned  nortli-weHt,  but  it  is  Khi-ltcrcd  in  that  dirtietion 
from  win<i  and  wave  by  the  islands  of  Tliennia,  Zea,  and 
Jiirn,  pri-viuiisly  pa'scd.     It  hns  been  eliosen  as  the  c«nlrs 
of  the  Ktuini  nnvi-^ttion  of  the  EjiMtcm  Medittfrrauean,  and  | 
a  ^>od-»izi:d  town  hn«  conKe<)uently  (jruwn  up.     It  iii  at' 
Syrallint  the  different  lines  of  bteament  meet  and  exchange 
pas^cnf^rs   lor    Greets.',   Turkey,   Asia   Minor,   Palestine, 
Canditi,  and  other  localitit^  in  thin  region.     In  this  MnM 
Syra  inuy  he  ooinpurt-d  to  St.  Thonios  in  tlie  West  Indies. 

I  ut  once  took  a  boat,  and  tindin);  no  bolaidcal  com- 
panion amon^t .  mv  fcllow-tmvellen  landed  alone,  and 
spent  ttin  day  rumiiling  on  the  hills  «nd  small  vallcya 
round  the  town.  These  hills  were  very  bare,  the  ipvund 
Vf;;ptation  fvcn  being  scanty,  t>ut  in  tJiu  most  Imttvu  Hun- 
bunii  >|itil.-'  1  I'dund  gmwing  freely  a  nmnll  Silene,  1  helieve 
the  Silene  cretica,  and  its  presence  in  such  spots  illustrates  j 
and  explains  the  fnitdom  of  its  growth  in  the  nioKt  huii- 
burnt  and  arid  gardens  nt  Mentone.  lu  that  putt  cf  the 
Itivieru  genernlly,  the  Silene  is  becoming  one  of  the  oom- 
moncut  spring  flowers,  and  is  indeed  escaping  from  thft 
gardens  (o  lite  open  country,  wherv  it  will  soon,  no  doubt, 
natur.dizct  itself.  With  inc  nt  Menlone  it  covers  tlw 
borders  where  sown,  and  resows  itself  spuntancously.  The 
most  prominent  other  Umvei-s  were  the  varirgjted  TiilslIe 
</f  thv  Mediterranean,  a  small  Taraxueum,  mid  a  Ccmvul- 
vulu«.     There  were  very  few  trees  to  be  seen,  and  those 


BY  R  A— TKQ  ET  ATION. 


313 


bnt  exctarively  in  folJg  of  tlie  hill-«ide,  at  a  low  «leration, 
where  there  wait  shelter  from  the  wind,  and  a  little  vrgo> 
tnblv  soil.  I  ducovered  a  market  mid  fruit  ganloii  in  otA 
of  tliKiH!  folds,  about  a  mile  east  of  the  town,  whicb  I 
esnmined  with  gn-al  intvnwt,  illustrating  as  it  did  th« 
(lifliiriilt)'  of  enntcmlinK  with  north-oiist  ur  norlb<wciit 
wiiidx,  even  in  latitude  AT  18',  in  the  middle  of  the  Grecian 
Archi[>ebi;;o,  under  n  burning;  sun.  Sj-ra  is  more  than  half 
a  degree  ftiriher  touth  than  Atheim,  and  at  tiiii*  date  (May  S) 
the  sun-heat  was  intense,  although  tlie  air  was  cool  and 
pleasant.  The  garxlen,  which  extended  over  nn  area  of 
about  ei^ht  aerea,  occupied  thv  bottom  of  a  wave  or  folil  of 
ibe  bill,  near  the  sea,  and  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  tea 
feet  bigb.  Moreover,  on  the  Ride  towards  the  wa,  there 
wa»  a  row  of  Cyprew  trw*,  and  lurtlier  on  a  (|tiii(lrui>li-  row 
of  Cuntia»,  about  tifteen  feet  hi)^h.  Behind  this  i^lielter 
vc^felabtea  were  gfowin<f  luxuriantly — Ariiehokcs,  Melons, 
TomaUMF— the  bitter  frtwbly  planted  out  apparently.  Broad 
Deana  and  IViU  were  being  (gathered.  Thttre  were  aiaa  Piff 
trees  and  Fonie);rn nates  iti  tlo\rer,  and  in  the  most  eh>'ilered 
cornel'  Oninf;e  buslnjn,  sonic  eitfht  or  ten  feet  high,  healthy, 
and  hearing  iMth  ri|te  fruit  and  flowers. 

I  lind  that  where  wind  is  feared,  in  Greece  and  in  thft 
Grecian  A  rt^'hipelii^^o,  two  pbiiiH  arc  adopted  to  keepOronge 
trees  low— as  low  as  the  walln  that  protect  them  :  either 
tb«y  arc  planted  very  oloseiy  toij^ether— so  much  so  a« 
vvidonlly  to  impede  liixurtnnt  growth— or  they  are  culti- 
vated as  buHheit,  with  many  stems  intit<-iid  of  one.  In 
Spnin  ue  bare  seen  tbut  Ibiti  latter  plan  in  all  but  inva- 
riably followed — so  that  the  Oran^  tree  prem-ntii  a 
difiifrent  cbsnicter  to  tlutt  under  whieb  it  is  obt-erved  on 
the  Genoese  Riviera  and  in  Southern  Italy.  Thero  W«ro  a 
lew  of  the  usual  early  summer  llowere  dotted  Itere  and 
tbero— Bvngnl  Rofet),  Antirrliiniim",  Delphiniums.  Same 
Pear  treui  had  fruit  the  sixit  of  a  Filbert. 

In  the  town  of  Syra  ilsdf  ihore  were  some  plants,  trcex, 
and  flouers  !h  the  courtyards  of  the  houses,  wherever  they 
were  oompletoly  Bcrei-ned  from  the  wind,  hcnltby,  hut  not 
larj;e — priibiibly  from  want  of  soil — Almond,  Ailantus, 
Olive,  \  inc,  Pumegiauate,  Acaeia,  a  Dnlc  I'alin  or  two,  k 


3t4        Tire   ABCHIPBLAOO — THE  CYCLADEa 


Virgi»iun  Cn-cper,  Cnnintionii,  and  Pvlarg^oiitnmB  in  pots; ' 
All  over  the  south  ol"  Kiiropu  I  have  fuuod  a  mieirraUfl, 
]>«lc'liiu-(t  IMaiffo Ilium  cultivated   ia  polx  with  arvskl  cara 
sud  ufTcc^liori  a*  9<oiniilhiii»  nirv  uiiil  prociuiis.    Our  gluriwu 
varielieM  have  not  reached  the  ^outh  as  yet. 

The  siuii^liinc  and  euinmer  heat  at  Syra  arc  cvtdAntly 
jiowi-rfril  <.'ii<>ugli  to  produce  mny  v«gi-tjil»tc  furm  licloiigititf 
to  eubtru]>iciil  rcgionti,  but  prulodioti  from  iiurthern  winds 
is  clearly  neceesary,  even  in  latitude  37'  ih',  many  degrees 
couth  of  the  GvnovsQ  Riviera. 

Syra  or  Syma  (^^m  or  Tiiipot)  wus  well  known  to  tlie 
andc-ule,  and  is  desenljed  by  Horner  and  oilier  Greuk  poetfl 
BK  liuviii^  two  towiiF,  and  as  beint;  rich  in  pastnrvif,  wine, 
fruit,  uiid  oorn.  Many  vAhiNhli.r  nVux  of  atiliciitily  have 
been  discovered  in  modern  times.  Its  central  poailiun  and  ita 
goixl  [Hirt  mi  doubt  made  it  an  important  place  then  as  now. 

The  [iioderii  town  erwps  up  the  nde  of  the  bill  Trom  thfi 
harhuur.     The  latter,  sale  and  deep,  contained  many  larg« 
feleumors,  Freneli  Jfessagerien,   Atmtrian    Lloyd,    Turkish, 
^<iii<;  to  and    froni  iMaitieilles,  Trieste,  Athene,  Smyrna, 
Coni-latitin'iplc,   Cimdia,  inid    many  ischooncni    and    small 
veMiiel.H,  hiiUii  with  oTau^es,  leuionit,  wino,  and  oil,  moored 
ck'-se  in  shore.     The  houses  alon^  tbe  port  were  priiici|)ally 
wino  shops,  eating  hou«es,  mnriuu  stom,  un<l  taf&t,  Cillea^J 
nitli    a  piclurwqutt  population   of  eunburtit   sailors  si]<||^H 
blander^.     Most  of  them  were  dressed  in  their  national^™ 
ooftinme — short  jackets   and  waistcoats,  with  a  red    mutli 
roinid  the  waiiit,  ami  breeches  or  trousers  very  full,  and 
de«cendin(f  below  the  knee,  tlie  leg  being  hnre,  aud  ihu  feet 
enetist-d  in  sandals.     On  their  heads  they  wear  a  rml  otp, 
and  the  hair  is  allowed   to   grow  lont;  and  made  to  tie 
on  the  biu-k ;   tJiey  wear  inixutachJos,  but  no  beard,     Tht 
drees  of  the  women  ia  less  peculiar,  contistin^  in  a  lonj 
jacket  trimmed  with  braid  or  I'ur,  pettiooate,  ami  a  red  car 
The  men,  bronzed  by  the  Eucitern  nun   wherever  the  skin 
Was  exposed — neck,  fat^-,  leg^^ — were  mu»cular,  hardy,  and^ 
good-looking;  wliiUit  the  women  were  decidedly  hunu«(>tit% 
ncallint;  to  mind  tlie  old  Grecian  stutiiury  type.     This 
d(*crip<i"n  applies  to   tliv  inhubilants  of  all  the   istantj 
oompopin;;  the  Ar('hii>elago, 


SYBA^ANDIA. 


3L5 


I 


I  wnin!(Mx«l  almut  the  port  with  groat  intorcst,  gating 
into  tlie  Jeep,  tninttpurent  blue  watei-M,  wliieh  Beeoicii  to 
support  the  keeU  of  the  boats  and  vessols  irithoiit  clFort, 
an  if  they  wtro  Bwiniiiuttg  in  air  InKU-nil  of  in  water, 
watching  the  Iiuy  loiuliiig  ami  uuloailiiii*  of  the  mutols, 
BccorditiK  to  Eustern  ways,  in  the  midat  of  a  Bulwl  of 
Voicefi.  I  looked  into  tliu  cales  niiJ  vtoriM,  atid  sUiod 
loiiginffly  before  the  eooW  ahop*,  wliLfc  Rjth  was  l>eiii';  frie>l, 
hesitation  whether  I  xhould  or  not  have  a  Syrote  dinner 
of  friitl  fish,  white  hreai],  nnd  "rio  tlu  payti"  with  the 
Greek  Mailon).     Thi»  at  hi«t  1  did,  imJ  nnjovt^d  the  repast. 

By  BIS  all  the  puA^utirrera  had  returned  on  boiird,  the 
anchor  woa  wei;;ho(l,  and  we  n^in  started  on  our  pil- 
grima;^e.  Within  fifty  yardj  of  us  wiw  a  lanre  Candia 
steamer,  also  on  the  eve  of  departLire,  and  an  exchange  of 
amicable  ntlutations  took  place  between  tht'  piimenuera  of 
-the  two  shipK.  I  wiut  told  that  it  would  leaeh  Cuiidia  the 
next  morning,  and  much  regretted  1  had  not  time  to  make 
B  divcRiiuii  in  that  direction.  It  wits  provoking  to  he  so 
near,  merely  Kepurated  by  a  ni<;hl'e  cruiKv,  and  yrt  to  have 
to  pass  on.  Candia  ia  a  ma^i^cent  island,  with  motintains 
six   or    ecvcn  thousand  feet   hif^h,  in  which  n  Cbiintinn 

iiO|>iiliition  dclicd,  until  quite  rttceiitly,  all  the  power  of  the 
I'urke.  Within  the  last  few  yeim,  after  a  heroic  rebellion 
Mid  rwista nee, prolan;]^  with  despuration  and  without  nny 
aacistauce  beyond  what  their  Greek  count r)' men  of  the 
uainland  could  give,  they  *u<!ciimbMl.  ChriBtian  Eumpe 
looked  on  with  apathy — with  apparent  indiHerence — and 
WW  the  Chritftian  C'nndiotcs  sla>i;,'hlcred  without  lifting  up 
htr  hand  to  alay  lim  moKKacre  and  di'vastatiun  ;  and  now 
they  renlly  are  subdued  and  euiilaved  by  Ibe  MusBultnaa. 
How  ditTereot  from  the  days  of  tlie  CruBadcrs ! — -how  luke* 
warm  Christian  Kumpc  hiw  Ixwontc  ! 

The  weather  was  xo  beaulil'ul,  the  sea  eo  calm,  that  we 
oould  surrender  ouraelvea  without  resi-rvo  to  the  enjoyment 
of  the  Mcone.  Our  duetinaiion  wa«  the  I^ilund  of  Si-io,  on 
tlie  coast  of  Asia  Minor,  but  a^l  that  evening  we  were  atill 
in  the  /Egi-an  Sea,  among  the  Cyclades,  skirling  their  pre- 
cipitixig  shores,  gazing  on  their  rocky  heights,  drvamiiig  of 
Ut«  lovely  Oroii]^,  Lemon,  Pomegninato  and  Olivi*  groves 


S16 


THE  AltCUIPELAOO — THE  CTCIADES. 


concealed  in  their  recesses.     These  scenes  of  fertility  an 
beautv  cxistwl,   but   hidden   from  our  gaze,  whivh   oii\y 
reeted    on   wind    txnd    Hturm-lieuten    shons,    rocks, 
moitnUiiiis. 

An  nc  turned  tho  northprn  pronwntori'  of  Sym,  wr« 
ill  full  view  tho  mouiiUiiiiuux  iKlniidK  of  Andros,  Tino,  ar 
Myi.'oni,  all  oelebraled  in  former  dMya  for  wine,  fruit,  oi 
and  lovely  vromcn.  These  islands  run  from  norlb-wf»t 
Roiith-ea«t,  arc  long  and  narrow,  procipttotis,  barren,  nud 
even  forbidding  mi  ihi-ir  n«rth-WMt  eoasta,  tulerably  fertile 
on  the  north-cnst,  and  fairly  peO|>le(l.  Myconi,  ihv  must 
eouthern  of  tin;  Ibrw-,  to  hIbo  llio  motrt  rocky  and  banvn, 
wlionco  in  classii^ul  tiiiie«  the  Mving,  "  a  Myconian  g««t." 
The  inimliitiints  ol  Myconi  were  reported  so  poor  that  tliey 
were  apt  to  apjicar  in  thu  liglit  of  i>aru*ilcs,  and  lo  cuuii 
to  their  friend  or  iititron'it  table  uninriled, 

"Wc  wiTo  passing  between  Tino  and  Myconi  aa 
shadows  uf  evening  were  closing  ov«r  \k,  and  I  do  n 
reoolleet  ever  having  witnessed  n  more  lovi'ly  M^ine. 
wrew  Bt«amer,  like  a  thing  of  life,  wua  ghding  swiftly  uvi 
tho  blue  waters  of  the  Mediterranean,  leaving  n  pbos- 
phoreaovnt  furrow  bohind  it  in  the  "  bar viart less  aea" 
(Homer).  The  sotting  sun  in  the  wi«t  still  illumined  the 
hdrtson,  costing  streak)^  of  rosy  light  on  the  waters,  and 
buminbing  tlic  rocks  and  moiintiiins  arouml  us,  endowing 
them  with  soulbern  Iwuuty.  1  wiw  vividly  reminded  of  a 
nmihir  evening  spent  at  sea  on  the  west  euasl  of  8ootlnnd, 
amongst  the  Wculern  Isles,  between  OI«in  iiiid  Skye.  The 
past  and  the  prcM^-nt  scene  vtvrn  all  but  etjiiallv  lovely, 
and  yet  how  <liH'erent  the  Ossiaiiie  beauty  of  the  given 
walena  and  h«wther-clad  hills  and  mountains  of  tJie  We«i 
Isles  and  tlie  blue  waten  and  Minbumt  rocks  of 
(irecinn  Archipelugo!     • 

ThfKic  wvru  ihu  last  of  the  Cyclades  we  »w.     Bet 
tliem  and  ihe  Sporattee  on   the  eficisl  of  Asia  Minor,  there' 
is  an  opt-ii  »e-A.     1  rumained  »a  deck  until  they  were  out  of 
si^ht,  and  then  retired  with  regret,  rejieating  the  word*— 


"  Mom,  ala;",  will  not  rpriore  lis, 
Yendvr  dim  and  distant  isle." 


THE  8P0BADES — CHIOS. 


817 


I  had  become  enamoureJ  with  tlieir  wild  aanlHimt  booty, 
Biiil  ri'firotted  I  had  not  some  weeka  to  devote  to  lliem.  It 
would  be  a  chnrminf;  vxc-union  in  Rpriu^f  and  enrly  summer, 
with  a  good  xtL-um  yuclit,  and  plviifont,  int«)!t'cti>iil  oom- 
ponioriB,  to  wBiider  Trom  one  island  to  the  other,  neBliinjc  in 
pretty  coves  and  bnye  like  that  of  Syra,  Dxplorin<;  tli« 
fertile  oruri|^G-ulnd   vulleys  and   reeaeea,  batbinf;   in  Die 

ElUiuid,  traiinpnrent  se»,  (isliin^,  doting,  and  dn-ainiDi;. 
^^     ow  seldom  it  a,  however,  in  iifo  tbut  wo  can  indulg;e  in 
^Vftjcb  doy-dreHmal     It  ia  nearly  always  tlic  same;  wc  are 
f       ohli^d  inoxornbly  to  continue  our  pilgrimage. 
I  Another  peaceful    nli^bt  brought   ua   to   the  shonn  of 

I  another  lovely  IhUikI,  ChioH,  or  Scio,  as  the  Italians  eitll  it. 
^H  ^V«  were  awakened  by  the  enuineB  stopping,  and  on 
^f  MMching  the  deck  Tound  wc  were  opposite  a  good-xized 
town,  that  of  ChioH,  at  the  foot  of  a  (gentle  sIoptii!>:  moun- 
tain, Pi.dina.iia  by  name,  on  the  western  coast  of  the  island. 
Here  we  reuinincd  lor  two  hours,  tinloadiog  and  taking  in 
cari;o  and  poseenf^ers. 

The  ialaod  of  ChiiM  is  thirty  miles  long  by  ten  wide, 
and  liea  due  north  and  south.  A  liilge  of  mounUins 
apparently  about  IJOUO  fcethiffh,  mns  from  N.B.  to  S.W'., 

EAnd  at  iheir  Um)  aru  lower  hill*  abutting  on  tbem.  The 
Kspect  therefore  is  S.K.,  the  eame  as  that  of  Menlone,  and  I 
saw  reproduced  before  tnc  tho  familiar  A-atiircB  of  my  winter 
aliodo  on  the  (junoeem  Kiviera.  Culcarooua  mountain!, 
atipurenlly  while  and  niikcl  in  iheir  upper  two-thirde,, 
Bllhon|;h  in  reality  MparNcly  clothed  with  aromatic  plants — 
ij<inl\iif.Mii,  Tliymu,  ItoKi^mary,  Myrtle,  Fennel — whilst  the 
lower  third  and  the  more  level  firound  near  the  Nh»rc  in 
oooupied  by  forwU  of  Olito  tree*,  with,  no  doubt,  grovee  of 
Omngw  and  Ijcmon  irera  in  th<-  more  Mhcllerod  noolcti  and 
folds.  'J'heir  prcsenoe  was  rendered  clear  by  tlie  abundant 
supply  of  Onmt;cs  and  Li^mnns  bmught  by  the  native 
boatincn  who  aurronndiK)  the  steumer.  Thoiie  biiiitmen 
alao  brought  quantities  of  a  substance  itttctl  in  medieine 
from  time  immemorial,  and,  mixed  with  honey  or  sugar, 
08  a  Mwcetmcat— the  gum  called  Terebinthinua  Chio.  ll  is 
tlie  piudii<.-t  of  the  Pistacia  Terebintlius,  and  indiculea 
extreme   summer   heat  and    dryness.     la  the  desert   of 


318 


THE  ABCHIPEI^aO — THE  BPOBjU)E& 


lion 
iin»      I 


Sahant  it    ia    tho    last  plant   to   give  in,    acoording 
Trifitntm,  sUindiug  nn  nmonnt  of  heat  and  dryness  which 
no  otlK^r  trtw  or  Khnili  cun  bear.     It  grows  freely  on  my 
rocks  at  Mentnne,  produeini;  iho  same  gam  m  that  otFered 
to  mc  at    CbioH.     Eviik'iitly   thorough  Fhcllcr  from    the 
north    prodiiCCN   iit    Chiim    the   name   climate    uonditionK ; 
and    1    Imve    no  doubt  that    a    more  minute   eiarainalion 
would    have     shown   ihnt  th«    veg»>tntion  of    this    lovol^^ 
S'tuthern   ivhmd,   iinil   thiit   of  tlie   more  shcItLTed  r«gi<i^^| 
of  the  Genoese  Riviera,  are  identical,  notwilbstandin);  tJ^^l 
diRcrcncc    of    IntitiiOti.      The    more    complete  protvcUon 
of  the  hitter  inukeii  up  for  the  more  soutliem  l«litad«  of 
the  former. 

The   Cydadcs   all   belong  to  the   modem   kinj^dotn  of 
Orewe,  whiUt  the  Spormio*  arc  utill  under  the  dominion 
of  the  Turks,  who  have  been  their  masters  from  the  timt 
of  Solyman  the  Great,  who.took  Chios  in  156(1.    It  was  loi 
an  a]>pHnftt>:«  of  the  Sultana  mother,  who  iiacd  to  aciid  oRtvoi 
yearly  to  lullect  taxc«,  iind  the  maHttc  giim  was  much  u:<ts] 
the  ndies  of  the  Scru^^lio  for  chewing.    l*rot«ct«d  hy  tlie  iu- 
fliicniv  of  eacccwive  suHannH  Chios  became  very  praeperoas, 
rich,  and  populouN.     In   18S2,  however,  the   inhabitiints 
joined  Greece  and  rose  in  insurrection.   The  Turks  defutad 
them,  again  took  po68e«>)>ion  of  iho  island,  hmnt  tlto  city  of 
ChioK,   muKsacrod   thousiindit   of   the    inhuhilantit,   totally 
ruiuiu);  the  island.     It  im  only  now  beginning  to  recovi^^J 
,from  this  cruel  blow.  ^^M 

My  destination  was  Smyrna,  which  we  reached  that  iuy^i 
but  as  Smyrna  is  on  the  mainland,  on  the  south  shore  of 
the  Mcilitorrancun,  1  nliidl  U-avc  what  1  have  to  say  re- 
Bpeding  it  for  the  thin!  section  of  this  work.  1  will  only 
add  sow  that  n-c  embarked  at  Smyrna  a  lew  days  lat«r,  ua 
board  a  large  Austrian  Lloyd  Mtoamer,  on  it«  vny  to  Coo- 
atantiiiople  from  A)exandn»  and  Ueirout.  1  found  on 
board  this  line  steamer  a  most  delightful  state  of  thiugs, 
nearly  liOii  Mecca  pilgrims  1  Fortunately,  tlic  weather 
was  beautiful  and  the  seit  eulm,  mi  ihey  did  not  come  to 
grief;  hiit  had  i^e  enconntered  a  forly-ei;tht  hours'  Ktom, 
such  aw  1  hnru  known  even  in  Rpring  in  the  Mediterranean, 
with  batclie*  down,  and  wave*  rolTiug  over  the  veu^ 


TonKisn  FtLORnia  on  boaed. 


319 


■ 


ITBaltj-  think  UuDdreds  must  liave  perisfied.  Tliey  ftlk'il  the 
vessel,  upper  lUvk',  nnci  l<iwci-  iltxks,  like  »hpcji  in  a  pen  on 
nurkut  iayf;  iinO  pmoiitud  m  niuxL  Miijiiilitr  and  iiitereatiug 
Ufwut.  I  vfaa  aa  hitsy  as  a  bee  nil  tlio  time  I  was  ■>□  boara 
•tttdying,  oWrvin>r>  ■luilyxini;;  it  was  RiigtIaJ,  l>diniL»eiii!, 
Iipahnn,  broiiglit  homu.  Every  Ku^tern  raue,  everv  npucies 
i>f  Kaittern  costume,  every  nffe,  was  r<?preeoDte(l.  They  had 
kll  with  them  n  »mall  *iiiiittros<  or  car|)ct,  on  whitli  -th«y 
lay,  iiixt  ill  wliit'h  t.lxiy  r<j)leJ  up  tlicir  oooUini;  utennilsi,  lor 
th^y  )iad  no  oIIilt  luj-guge,  only  the  elotheaoii  their  backs. 
Amongst  them  were  alxo  nomv  Rtis^inn  pil<^ms  returning 
from  M  pilgrima^  to  JeniMiloni.  All,  both  MugsuIriur, 
Turkit,  und  OhriNtian  Kuseiaua,  who  escaped  the  dani^ra 
of  their  pil;^m«;>e,  und  rcitchcd  home  eaiicly,  Tor  the  mat 
of  their  livi-!i  would  bo  C(>nKid<-ri.tl  Kuintly  mta,  nnil  woidd 
be  treiit«d  witli  g^reut  reverence  and  raspect  hy  their  0'>untry- 
men.  They  n-iilly  dexervc  Komo  such  reward  on  this  earth 
fur  their  cotiru^^e  and  MTlf'idjneEation,  for  tliey  nin  f^reitt 
rixka  from  jiestilence,  from  famiue,  and  from  the  dnngurs 
of  the  deep.  I  hcorxl  from  the  captaio  of  an  Alexau* 
dria  boat  on  wUicli  I  wiis  travelling  Utely,  tliut  »  short 
time  beforo  120  pilgrims  had  been  waahi-d  olf  the 
deck  of  nn  AiiBtriiin  fitc;tmcr  and  droivned,  near  Alexan- 
dria, "without  ita  hein^  any  oiic'x  tiiult,"  II  giKid  illiistrr* 
tion  of  llie  duDKer  of  deck- loading-  to  all  jiurtii-n.  Thin  I 
quite  l>elieve,  when  I  think  of  my  own  experience ;  liud  a 
lar(^  ware  waahod  our  dvekn  it  must  have  carried  hundreda 
overboard.  We  hud  cei-tainly  above  600  on  the  upper  deck 
alone. 

It  was  imposElblc  not  to  watch  witli  intense  delight  tli9 
inner  and  outer  life  of  thi«  crowd  of  Orivnlala,  maased 
together  in  BO  small  a  compass.  The  ship  gave  no  |)rori- 
aioDS,  merely  water,  but  thry  uU  had  a  little  store  in  hanil, 
principnitj'  rice,  duteH,  bi-ead  and  volToe.  On  every  side  the 
cooking  was  goiof;  on  with  spirit- lamps,  tJirce  or  four 
oombioing  fortho  purpose,  and  sittiiitr  vTom-Ueged  roun 
the  ftre  watching  the  preparation  of  their  moilest  repaat. 
1  could  not  help  tliMikint;  what  tons  and  Ions  of  food 
would  be  re'piirud  by  l^OO  Ent^lisliinf^n  like  myself 
eiiiiibi'ly  siluuted.     iVJl  kiuda  of  odd  scenes  wore  taking 


820        TQS   AUCmPELAOO— TIIE  fiKlIUSGS. 

fiutx  in  a  quiet  impantble  wny.  One  )iltle  ]nci<lintt 
rouseil  the  npntliy  itveit  of  our  HaaUtn  rolLiw^pniwugtrm. 
A  niiddlc-ntceil  <li)j;iiiik-il  Turk  bad  bought  in  Ejfypt,  u»  u 
Elavp,  R  negro  boy  of  fourteen,  and  for  some  oinU»ion  or 
other  I>ont  him  tinmereifiilt}-.  A  nailnr  mw  the  elinntiu- 
tnent  ^iven  und  told  the  AtintrUn  captain.  The  latter  at 
ODce  went  to  the  Turk  and  took  the  boy  sway,  myini;  that 
he  wnit  free  from  the  mnmt^nl  hln  foot  hiicl  touohml  an 
Austrian  »htp.  At  tlrel  the  I'urk  oould  not  he  made  to 
undefBtand  n-hiit  had  happened,  it  eeemcd  so  ftrnnKe  to 
htm  that  he  Khr^iild  not  ho  able  to  do  whut  he  ttki-d  vtilli 
hia  own  property — a  not  un-Knelish  eeiitiment.  At  laat 
hiR  iofif  wa§  made  clear,  nticn  )ie  hurst  into  n  ocries  of  loud 
lanu'iitiilioiiit  that  were  hciird  all  over  the  venKel,  tore  hia 
beard,  bia  liaii  and  bis  clotliee,  and  in  the  Eastern  way 
threw  what  ashes  or  dirt  he  could  Bnd  on  his  head.  lie 
met  with  no  «ympnt)iy  or  rommiMtmlioii  from  the  Euro- 
peans. All  ti>e  sailors  and  passeng^m  were  positively 
aelight«d  at  what  bad  occurred ;  and  the  poor  Turk  waa 
told  to  ceaa«  hia  outcry  or  to  carry  it  on  »of(o  roce,  or  the 
eonwtjuenoea  to  himnclf  might  he  muni  unpliMsimt.  So  ha 
oollapaed,  curled  himself  np,  and  remained  for  the  rast  of 
the  journey  a  prey  to  grief— a  niinod  nuui>  as  he  bad 
exclaimed  many  timeii.  We  landed  ftome  of  our  Eaatora 
paaaengerii  at  each  of  the  iHlaiids  and  porta  we  pussed,  at 
Myti-kne  (Lesbos),  Tencdi-x,  Lemnoa.  This  was  alwaya 
a  niont  intervrting  cereuiony  with  the  bare-lee^^d,  tur- 
baned,  fulUhrceched  boatmen  and  the  awkward  Oriental 
prnwen !(('»>,  but  the  grent^-r  pari  of  them  wcTxr  destined  for^ 
the  MMiuland,  for  Turkey  propiT, 

This  latter  part  of  our  cruise  wns  as  enjoyable  aa  tlie^ 
first  The  various  islands  we  puKsed  and  stopjicd  at  were 
at  lovely  aa  those  deai:ribed,  and  presented  the  sumo  cha- 
racteristics. As  all  the  Sporadco,  however,  are  under  tbe 
domitiioii  of  tlie  Turk,  and  ]»irlly  itdiiihited  by  Tnrks, 
there  wits  the  additional  eliarm  of  Turkish  Oriental ian, 
ooalunie  and  raanuers,  about  them  nnd  around  us.  Thus 
at  SmyniH  we  took  up  the  hiirem  of  a  Turkish  pii«ha  and 
governor,  and  carried  the  ladies  with  us  to  a  town  on  the 
Dardanellee.     A  tent  wiis  mndc  on  the  deck,  and  they  were  \ 


COSSTA  .NTINOPLB. 


321 


then  locAt'ed  wilb  their  nttcnilnnts  nn<I  cliildrun.  llie 
I)!!*:}!!!  ap))C'iir4>i]  occi)itii>i)iill)',  wulkiiig  about  in  a  itliudliiiu' 
di^ili<rd  manner  un<l  castinjf  a  muster's  «,ve  ovei  Ins 
Wlon^inc^.  We  ^ot  occasional  (;timpsce  of  tliv  latlii-c,  bub 
recognised  no  frrcut  bviiuty  umun^itt  tlium.  'They  ull 
rwmnvd  very  dicerlul  and  hBp|>y,  and  inten&ely  iiiteiesttd 
in  what  was  i^iii|j;  on  around  ilium,  constnntly  li>i>kiii§^ 
out  slyly  between  th«  folds  of  tli«ir  tt-nt  «t  th«  miVL-l 
aoono.  'I'he  Htiropoim  Indiett  on  bourd  u[i])enr(-d  to  look 
npciii  tlieui  with  great  pity,  I  mnytAv  even  »itli  supicniu 
contempt,  Tb«  landinf;  of  Ihcw  Udi«s  wm  a  ifrcnt  bitsi- 
ncsM,  un<l  wM  uccQinplidKid  wilh  ijixuit  ceremony.  Niimi;- 
roiiH  boats  came  out;  they  wer«  wrapgied  up  until  thtty 
looked  like  bundles,  or  coiled  np  mattrebses,  and  wilh  their 
Hlippere  half  olT  they  were  aetiially  "  hundh'd*'  ovi-rboard. 

Surrounded  by  all  this^traugu  Hie,  inimer(i(.-<]  in  pratliea! 
Orientalism,  Mecca  pilgrims  of  twenty  raees,  tiarems, 
Tin-ks,  Jews,  Armenians,  Xci^roee,  soldiers  in  outlandish 
unirgriDs,  civilians  in  <[Uoer  cu^lumeiir,  wo  passed  along  tl>« 
ooutof  l*roy,  were  tthown  the  oxuct  Mite  of  the  old  city, 
and  the  previse  point  on  the  coast  where  the  Scamander 
enters  the  sea.  Thi^n  we  enter^  the  far-famed  Dardn- 
licllrx,  eninswl  (he  Sea  of  Marmora  and  nncliorcd.  at  last,  iu 
the  (Joldeu  Horn  of  Constantinople,  May  10,  Ibli, 


COXSTANTINOPLB. 

Constantinople  is  Hitnal<.>d  at  theicmlhernentTanfio  of  the 
Strait^  which  separate  Kuro|)e  frou)  Asia,  and  extend  I'ruiii 
the  Sw  of  Marmora  lo  tiie  Bbck  St-ft.  The  Stivits,  about 
twenty  mil<«  lonj;,  are  of  vntiable  width,  but  i^noruUy  about 
that  of  Uie  Thumes  at  Greenwich,  The  old  city  is  built 
on  a  narrow  promontory  which  rises  gradually  toa  hei^litof 
20(1  feet.  Itssouthvrnslopcisinthe^eaof Mamiorji,  undlho 
northern  forms  one  side  of  the  Uolden  Horn,  an  inlet  of  the 
si-a  which  leads  up  to  the  niuuth  of«  little  river,  lliiee  or  four 
milcM  diKliint — th«  Sweet  Waters,  a  pretty  name.  Here  tiie 
Sultan  how  a  sumcner  pnliice,  and  n  garden  or  shrubbery. 

On  thuo{i|>oeiteBide<}f  the(i<)lden  H^ni  inlet  tlioHhorealvu 
rises  hy  a  gentle  elope  bo  an  elevation  of  about  2i>u  feet,  and 

t 


322 


OOSOTAyriNOPLIL 


her^  mo^rn  Con«taiilina|>1«  has  itprmd  without  lini 
The  hi};be»t  point  is  occupied  by  th«  Pera  or  Eoio' 
(jiuirttfr,  ix>mpo««d  of  one  Innirrtrect  al>out  thirty  f«ft  witic, 
ami  of  maity  KntnlW  one*  lojiiling  iota  it,  mme  fitteeii  ftrot 
wido.  Ttie  houses  are  like  tJioae  of  a  >tnall  Fr«n«h  [>rovineial 
tonn.  An  extensire  area,  at  least  lialfa  miW  sqnan^,  w)i«n 
I  wit«  tlivre  (is;^)  iviw  one  maw  or  chaTrml  niitw,  the  traee 
of  a  great  fire  vrhicrh  had  occurred  the  previous  year;  only 
a  ffw  of  tlie  houses  then  destroyed  hnd  been  rv)>nilt.  TIm-M 
Mibtirbs  are  comicct<^  wilh  the  old  Turkish  towrn  by  the 
eelvbratiKl  and  piet(in'«<|iii;  bHiI^^c  uf  hiiats,  about  twice  oa 
long^  aa  London  Uridj^,  On  the  other  or  Aeiatiu  side 
tlte  Strait*,  ■  mile  distant,  Itrx  the  town  of  ScutAri,  whti 
nlso  nkceiHl*  a  hill  rising  gently  from  the  water's  edge. 

Constantinople  us  seen  froni  the  water  is  certainly 
piettireKqiie  as  it  is  reputed  to  be;  Dor  wan  tho  cffifOt 
marrex)  in  my  cyt-j»,  when  I  hindeil.  The  mriety  of  race,  tlie 
qnainlne^  of  cx)c>tiinKi<,  the  inleniiely  Oriental  character  of 
the  online  MXMie,  nnide  more  than  amends  for  the  smalioeas 
and  uieanneos  of  the  wooden  liouees,  and  for  the  abaenoo  of 
monttmonlal  buildings  such  at  are  net  witli  in  other 
Kurofienn  eapitid*. 

On  till!  rery  day  of  my  arrival  I  took  a  caique,  a 
narrotv  li^bt  boat  or  canoe,  without  rudder,  point^-d  nt  boi 
oii'li',  prL-iiHiit  to  ConKtiinliiioiile,  and  ivcnt  up  the  (iotdei 
H..rn  to  "  tlie  Sweet  Waters.  For  the  first  few  milrt  it 
is  like  Ihe  Thames  nt  Wnppinp,  both  nhores  being  covered 
with  tiridit-r  and  Khi)i-yiim>!,  ironwoi'lcn  and  marine  stores, 
l>nl  BH  we  reee<!e  from  the  town,  and  the  inlet  narro 
Ix'hvii'ii  Iw'o  low  sloping  grafS'COvered  hills,  tho  landsea 
beoonies  more  rural.  Tre<9>  appear  on  the  roiwl  on  each  iiido^ 
and  n  hen  we  reach  the  Sultau'tt  pulsee,  about  five  miles 
ilisl»nt,  the  scene  assumea  the  aspect  of  Itichmnnd  or 
Hiiinplon  Court— a  narrow  river  iH-twecn  low  hillN,  with 
trees  dotted  at  the  haM!,  mid  tbt^  juihuTe  and  pirdens  in  Ihe 
kadcHTound.  It  wok  a  huliduy,  and  undernentli  those  irt'cs 
^vero  many  festive  yroups  from  tho  city  in  evi-ry  variety 
(iwtuini*.  eon Hpicii oils  among  which  were  Turkish  la^li 
wilh  their  little  children,  M-veral  eunuchs,  end  ntffTO  sei 
Is.     Tho  lower  pait  of  the  face  was  carefully  oovei 


I 


I 


with  a  miwlin  band,  bo  ns  Mily  toallow  the  eyes  to  1)g  seen  ; 
aotwithstaodiDir  this  prucimtioii  I  thought  I  oiiur  ovviu-ol 
prettv  young  pliyiM<ign»mtuM. 

The  trees  wntv,  principally,  Ailantus  glandulnaa,  CvUis 
occidentulis,  Melia  Axedarucli,  Acacia  in  full  Hower,  Popiiliis 
alba,  Aih,  Piano,  Kim,  Robinia  Paeud^Acacia,  Arbittna, 
Uors«  Chest^iut,  goin^  out  of  Hower.  The  Sultan,  like  bis 
subjects,  had  oome  to  have  a  picnic  dinner  at  his  country 
house,  BO  1  could  not  cxiimtnt;  the  garden.  The  trctM  iind 
shrubs  that  Kiirixiiindrd  it  ap^H^rod  the  same  as  those  outeide. 
I  Kiiw  the  diiiuQr  landed  lixiin  a  gorgeotia  caique,  all  (told 
and  ornanwDt.  Each  dish,  lar^  nnd  round,  wrapped  in  n 
velvet  lug,  wan  ovrcmonioii«ly  bikcn  tiut  of  the  boat  and 
placed  on  the  head  of  a  atvarlliy  Turkish  attembint,  ivlio 
IvrthwiUi  marched  off  to  the  iwlaw  with  his  burden,  in 
truly  Oriental  style. 

I  Mtbttcquvtitly  went  over  the  grouiidit  of  the  Seraglio 
Palace  in  the  old  town  (May  tti),  and  there  eaw  all  the  treetj 
nientioaed  llounshio^  and  in  perlVct  health;  also  lari^ 
PUiie  and  Linden  trees,  Suinbnca,  Laburnum,  some  Oiiks, 
both  deciduous  and  evergreen,  the  former  not  rpiite  in  full 
loaf;  Kuoiiyinus  japonica,  sim|>]e  and  variegated;  Judas 
going  out  of  tlower;  small  IVodaraK,  Pinus  ^ncii,  largu 
Cupr«8BU8  Ijttinbertiaiia,  Toumelbrtii,  Alep^M  I'ine.  Tlie 
flow«rs  were  those  usually  seen  in  the  South  of  Kurope  in 
May— Antirrhinum,  Delphinium,  Stix-ks,  Numopbitii  insig- 
nis,  Marigold,  garden  Uaisie*,  Uniigal  Itowcs,  ])iutk>tiiis, 
CiiK'rariu,  Verbena,  Hollyhoclu  (not  in  Uower),  Ai|uilegiii. 

The  Antitrbtnum  grows  wild  in  many  lucnlitim  iif  the 
Medit<:rriinesan  in  two  varieties,  a  light  yellow  aud  n  li;;ht 
mirplc.  1  found  the  ruins  of  Kphnux  covered  with  thu 
latter,  as  also  witJi  a  Ui^  Campanula,  just  like  our  gnnlen 
Canterbury  Bull.  This  I  have  nut  seen  clwwhcre,  but  a 
travelling  companion,  juKt  retunted  from  Syria  and  Paliis- 
tine,  told  me  that  he  saw  it  also  Rowing  wild,  although 
not  Urge,  in  many  parts  of  those  ooutitrit^s.  He  likewise 
found,  in  the  same  luealities,  grotvini;  wild  in  grc:it  abun- 
dance, tbe  UuUyhock,  generally  dwariish  in  develupmuut, 
DO  doubt  owing  to  the  seantmesa  and  dryness  of  the  soil ; 
ill  BOiMu  very  dry  places  he  saw  it  in  lull  (lower  when  not 

i2 


.T24" 


ty>NffTANTINOPLH. 


more  thnn  sis  inulies  luj;h.  1  i>t)tiHot|iii'iitIj-  «aw  Ijnrlc«]int«' 
(rrowiiii;  in  grpiil  lusnrinni-e  aiiiJ  aUiudntiee,  wild,  in< 
Hulgiiriu,  l>ctw<-cii  Vnrnn  nnd  the  DaniilHr. 

Ttiii»  it  would  seotn  that  many  of  atir  cnromon  pirden 
flowere  have  orij;inste<l  around  the  Meditcrranmn,  imd  liniv, 
probably,  bi-eii  the  $;iird'-ii  tloivi.>rB  of  our  horticiilturiil  pn-- 
<iecrt*or»  for  tliouKiiml*  of  ytar*.  Who  can  tell  whether  the 
Antiirlittium  and  Campanula  1  mv  at  K]>btf»iBi  may  nut  ho 
the  lineal  descend  a  nia  of  ibose  that  K^uddened  thu  eyes  of 
the  P^plicsiant  two  llioiignnd  ywim  apfo? 

Aruuiit)  llii:  ba*c  of  Die  prumonlory  on  which  vlamU 
Stainbuul,  or  old  Comlantinople,  are  atill  extaut,  in  very 
toU*nib]e  preservation,  allhoii;;h  in  ruins  in  many  plaeea, 
the  widl*  tlint  formerly  drt'emlrt)  the  city,iw  nlno  the  towers 
tliat  sireiitjihened  them  every  tllly  yards.  TIk-m  walk 
extend  four  miles,  from  the  sea  of  Marmora  to  llie  GoWen 
Horn,  anil  are  triplu,  with  mnat«i,  or  diUihoe,  Iwtweun  wicli, 
Boin(>  turned  to  lite  soutli-ucst  and  protevtod  from  the  north 
by  the  city,  they  constitute  by  far  t)i«  moat  f>lK:1ti-rcd  region 
of  Constantinople  or  its  vicinity.  The  ditches  or  moats  jito 
now  cultivated  as  kitchen  gardens  and  ordmrds,  whiUt  the 
walls  in  ruins  are  elolhwl  with  phnitH  and  Ireen,  iniwi)  by 
thv  wiuil  iiml  l<y  the  birds.  I  rode  slowly  ahng  the  uiilirc 
circuit,  carefully  examining  the  vof-etation. 

'Hie  vegetubleA  ^rown  were  Pfiia  and  DroiKl  Ileaiis  (ripo), 
Artichokoa,  liirgc  Tomatoes,  small  plants ;  vi^jorous  ^felons 
and  0(iur<l8,  small  plants.  There  were  many  P'g  trees, 
Kvari-e  or  absent  elsewhere ;  lai^,  ma^ificcnt  Wulnut  trees 
in  great  nnmbers,  Uttle  seen  eWwhere;  Mulberry  tive»  in 
great  mimbem;  Cherry  trees,  fruit  not  ripe,  only  bet;itining 
to  colour;  I'ears  small;  Klderberiy  in  flower,  (juite  trees, 
and  nuuierous;  Loqiiats,  fruiting  :  Pome^rnniitc«  in  tlower, 
Almond,  lai^  trcea;  I'oaeh,  Apricot,  fruit  large;  Vin<w, 
flower  buds  jiwt  appearing.  The  ruins  themselves  were 
covered  in  places  with  Ivy  and  Lentiacne,  and  with  many 
or  the  trees  above  name*),  self-si>wn,  growing  out  of  the 
erevioes.  Here  and  there  I  saw  the  iloneysuokle  and  wild 
Ro«i_'  in  llowtT  uninng  the  briishnood.  There  were  no 
PnlmH,  Opniitias,  Aloes,  Orange  or  Leuxin  trM«,  even  in 
the  must  slielterud  spot*,  nor  did  1  Rnd  them  anywhero  u( 


VEGETATION  — t'LlM  ATE. 


325 


I 


or  iiwir  CoHAlantinople.  Tiie  only  fruit  eeon  in  tfie  eliops 
were  Oranj^js,  Str^nborncs,  and  CliurrieN,  the  liill<rr  not 
ripu.  The  Orati^t*  witru  very  largo,  lemon.8lia|it'd,  from 
.  iatU  iinil  Tyre,  auil  Jutii'. 

Tti«  titrufl  moat  reinarUalU  trees  at  and  near  Coiislanti- 
noplu  ar«  t!ie  Pbtinus  oriontiilK,  tliu  Culti)i  ouui<l<:ntiiliii, 
«ni  the  Cuprt.'K9iu»  pymmulalin.  Thity  all  tlieru  boconiu 
timber  tKe»,  and  atUiin  ft  size  wliicti  I  have  8ei>ii  equalled 
DOKhero  else  in  the  Meilitorrnriflau.  The  l*t:itic  Iruti 
«()>«•;  ill  I  ly  arc  pvoili;;ioiifi  in  sizi-  and  mo»t  veucruUle  in  a^. 
Tlierc  iM  one  in  the  yard  of  the  Sorjglio,  well  knuwn  to 
Uitaniats,  which  in  iiiippu:>i^d  to  he  abuvu  two  tlioiuvtid 
yeara  old.  Its  oirciiml'eieiice  ia  eoormoiis,  and  in  a  lurjie 
c:)vity  of  iU  trunk  livt-d  tor  a  century  or  ni»ru  ihe  untor 
jnriilor  or  jioliwiuiin  of  the  Seraglio.  It  i.t,  however,  »lill  a 
tine  liandsoine  healthy  tree,  covered  »vith  foliani'.  Another 
1'Une  tree,  of  nearly  equal  dimeiisiuns,  at  Biy ukdei'e,  ou 
the  Botphi^niK,  wks  nn  old  am]  votioriitcil  tree  at  the  time 
of  the  Cni^iders,  and  is  cillud  the  I'lunc  of  Uotlelroy  do 
Suiiillon.  The  Celbi«  oeeideiitalis  is  seen  everywhere  as  ■ 
timber  tree,  as  larj^re  »!i  or  larger  than  -a  hundroJ-ycai-old 
Oak.  It  u  met  with,  eijually  well  (ii'velo|K-d,  in  Spain ; 
there  arc  some  very  lino  trees  on  the  puhlie  sipiani  at  tira-we, 
near  'Su-xt.  TIte  pyramidal  Cyprves  uver>hudi>ivs  ('on- 
stantinople,  for  it  is  pliiulud  in  the  Turkirth  cemeteries, 
which  occupy  a  consiileraUe  part  oC  the  city,  inside  and 
out.  These  eemoterics  are  not  endused  hy  walls,  and  art 
travcned  by  pth*  and  ro;i(U  in  every  direction  ;  they  are 
tne  naort  ul  all  on  whoso  track  they  lie.  The  Tinks  «how 
their  ri-fipcct  for  the  dead  by  not  lUsturbin;;  them,  other- 
widie  they  live  with  thorn  fiimiliarly,  attViicU-d,  perhaps,  in 
pirt  by  the  nhadow  uf  the  Cypn-KH  lree«,  wliieli  attain  uu 
altitude  and  a  trunk  development  unknown  elsewhere. 

At  the  summit  of  the  bill,  ou  which  standi  the  I'vra,  or 
■Frank  qii.irtcr,  there  is  a  garden  of  noinc  three  or  funr  ucrai 
in  extent,  rcuently  niadu  uni)  planted,  and  intended  aa  a 
kind  of  V'aiixhall  or  T'^vuli  cutiee  and  mii'^ic  ifanleu.  1 
uiamined  it  oarofully,  thinking;  that  it  muut  ilhi^lrute  the 
ve^^'liititfn  of  the  lieiiUty,  iie  the  din-eloi*  would  he  only 
likely  lu  jilont  wliat  tliey   kutiw  w<)u|d  vugxcvd.     1  only 


326 


CONBTASTINOPLE. 


found  tlic  )i1nnt«  And  flowen  nsmed  oborcj  and  nmoti!*  them 
scnrcL-ly  on«  that  would  not  grow  in  England.  Tiiere  is 
nutbing  eouthem  or  Oneutal  to  hi  observed. 

'r\m  ruinurk  applu-x  to  tlic  ontiro  vcf;«t«tion  of  Con- 
ataiitincijiL*  and  ul'  its'  viuinitv.  Kvidently  ttie  vrin(«r9>  uro  | 
oold :  the  «)r  must  be,  nnd  is,  so  cooled  by  the  |iroxiiniCy 
of  tl]«  cold  Ulnck  Se»,  and  of  tbe  ice<l>ound  countnes 
around  it,  tbut  notliing  iibeolutety  southern  caa  thrive. 
At  tbe  Name  time,  nil  pliiutx  tbul  van  Ktaud  moderate 
winter  frost,  and  yet  rejoice  in  intense  dry  heat  in  summer, 
live  imd  Hourisli.  Constantinople  ia  in  latitude  IL" ;  th« 
muutli*  of  the  Danube  nre  in  latitude  45°,  a  dilTcrence  of 
four  dcfrntOH,  or  i  10  miUat  only,  without  inl«rvenin{f  muun* 
tains.  The  Diiiiubc  if  frozen  every  winter  to  its  aeu  outlet,  < 
for  four  months,  from  November  to  March,  and  froxvn  to 
eui-h  a  ditplh  that  cart8  often  crosf  it  wln-n:  it  ix  two 
miles  wide,  a^  o[ipo«ite  Ruvtchiik, in  lutitudi!  I-I"  30',  merely 
15IJ  milw  from  Contitinitinoplc.  Tbft  wonder  is  that 
tbe  latter  city  in  not  colder,  a  fact  ttiat  can  only  be  explained 
by  tbe  proximity  of  the  sun-warmed  Mediterranean,  Thus, 
tlio  nbftcnce  of  mountain  protection  from  the  north  exirr- 
ciMH  a  very  marked  and  most  nnfavournble  inlluenoo  on  tlte 
winter  climate  of  Constiintiiiople.  I 

Conslantino[>le  is  certainly  a  very  fosctnal  in;;  place  for 
tbe  European  traveller.  The  population  ik  •11'0,(I00,  but  of 
these  about  one-bidf  arc  ArmeninnK,  Oreeks,  and  Jew». 
The  I'urkish  women  alwayii  nppeiir  in  the  streets  veiled, 
only  showing  their  eyes,  wbiUt  ihe  Christians  leave  their 
fucps  uTifoverod,  The  Armenian  women  often  dnws  in 
On'entul  futthion,  and  lieinj-  Imjuently  very  f^ood-looking, i 
contribute  to  tbe  accnc  tbe  element  of  Oriental  feminine 
giaee.  Tbe  veiled  TurktMh  women  soon  cease  to  attract 
attention,  for  they  are  mere  wnddlinji  bundles  of  clothes, 
much  to  bo  pitied  ivhen  really  pretty,  for  all  their  good 
looks  nrc  entitvly  lost  on  the  public;  on  all  hut  their 
falbem  and  bunbande — n  sad  slute  of  things  ! 

1  must,  however,  leave  the  description  of  Constant  inople^i 
of  its  mosques  and  baxanrs,  of  its  Dcrvisrs  and  cemeterica, 
ofitf!  curious  euKlomit  and  wnys,  to  others.     In  six  days  I 
raumged  to  kcc  all  that  was  mont  interesting,  by  oonliding 


THE  RETURN — STRAITS — BLACK   SEA. 


3:i7 


mj-aelf  entire)}'  to  an  experienceil  dngutnan,  by  far  ttio  beat 
|pnain«n  unkoowu  localitjr  when  preaaed  tor  time.  \iy 
bit  udviot,  when  tliintj'  or  esiiaust«d  bctweuti  msiiU,  I 
merely  took  n  TurkUh  cuprul  of  coffne,  which  cotiluiim 
about  a  tliinl  of  uti  Kiit;lish  t«iu;ui>,  with  >ii  iiivarialily 
good  mult.  It  is  the  Oriental  mode  of  mcetin;;  raii;;tie, 
thintt,  and  cxhnti^tiun,  and  is  an  iiifinilcly  boltiT  luiil  »aii:t 
one  than  oiirx  i>t'  tiiltiiig  wine,  heur,  ie-at,  ie<;ii  wutiir,  ur 
Bolid  food  under  aueh  uiit:umiit«noi;M.  Tlio  dsiired  restora- 
tive elTect  is  produced,  and  uo  ill  elfocU  follow,  uo  iu- 
digiMtion,  nu  hiMrtburD.  When  we  do  take  uoQVij  in  the 
daytime  wc  cWrly  tnke  tlireu  timiM  too  mueh. 

Once  at  Constantinople,  the  nutiirul  wuy  home  for  ue 
western  Europeans  is  by  tlie  Danube.  1  took  this  route 
myHulf,  iind  ehull  m<tke  a  few  reniurks  on  it,  partly  to  giiidi^ 
Othvn,  and  partly  becauM  tliiK  journey,  whicU  (wirid  the 
traveller  from  Mut  to  west  behind  llie  mountains  that 
fhcltcr  the  nofth-east  frliore  of  the  Mediterranean,  com- 
pkliw  the  study  of  that  shore. 

The  uinal  ounrso  luloplcd,  iind  the  one  I  followed,  U  to 
tuke  Ktvaaier  from  ConKtunlinoplu  to  Varna,  the  rjilivay 
from  Varua  to  Ru.ili^hiik  on  the  Danube,  and  then  to 
embark  on  the  river  steamers  for  Pesth  and  Vienna.  Wo 
started  at  four  P.M.  from  the  Golden  Horn,  and  ailer 
Bltnnitng  through  the  Straito,  reacWl  the  Bhiclc  Si^u.  The 
Straits  nf  Constantinople,  the  Thraoian  Doapliorus  of  former 
dayit,  fonn  the  votnmunication  between  the  Sea  of  Marmora 
uud  the  lllack  Sea.  They  arc  never  more  than  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  wide,  and  are  limited  on  both  sidwi  by  K>-ntly  rising, 
trer-ouvered  hills,  dotted  with  villager  and  with  country 
villas,  bvlont^n};  to  the  wealthy  eUaves  of  Constantinople. 

Once  in  the  Black  Sea,  we  soon  lost  8i);ht  of  land,  and 
reached  Varna  the  next  morning  at  nine.  We  kuw  the 
WitU-surronnded  town  iiituatcd  on  an  eminence  to  our  rii{lil, 
but  did  not  vnttfr  it.  We  were  taken  straifj;ht  from  tUu 
ship  to  the  railway  etntion,  a  few  hundivd  yard*  from  Uie 
eltore,  started  at  ten  in  very  iMmfurtalile  carnugi^ii,  and 
arrived  at  llustchuk  at  four,  arier  nassing  tbruugti  a  level 
country  but  little  inhabited  or  cultivated,  priaeipally  'jrA%» 
land.     Biutvhutt  ii  a  hundred  miles  from  the  moutli  uf  thu 


828 


THE  VOYAGE  W  TIIH  DANiniR. 


Daiiul>e,  anJ  the  point  where  the  Danube  steamers  take  u; 
and  leave  tbeir  passengers.     Derore  lon^nr  there  will  be 
miln-fly  direct  from  Conntuntinopk  1o  Riiet«huk,  which  wil 
anvir  ihv  Hliiok  Svn  vovage.     Tlie  line  w  already  opou  to 
Atlrianople  (|1S74). 

The  Unnuhe  steamers  are  Urge  commodious  vessels,  and 
ln.'iiif'  fitted  np  with  every  wmvenienee  and  comrort,  a 
jounicy  by  tlictn  liooomeM  a  positive  pleii«»re.  I  greatly 
i^DJoyed  tbd  oombination  of  comfort- and  eaue  with  tliesetise 
of  rapid  motion,  lliere  were  many  olever,  inlelk-ctiinl 
prnionf)  on  l)oard,  ffcnllemen  and  Udie«,  RoiimimB,  (ier- 
inatis,  Hii.-'i'iiinx,  nnd  nil  Hp»kc  tVnch  iwrfix-tly,  »t<  it  vtaa 
tiie  jceneral  inediiiin  of  eonvenation.  We  became  very^ 
fncndly  and  eommunicAiive,  sittiojir  on  the  deck  in  ea 
chnirif,  ■ippiii'*  voffec  three  or  four  times  a  djiy,  antl  wal<;tH' 
iii^  the  willow-clad  hIioiv  Hit-ting  rapidly  by.  Various 
Bubjeotsof  oonveraation,  aocinl,  othieul,  literary,  and  politi- 
c*],  w«re  bfoached  and  discussed  with  a  tire,  an  energy,  an 
eloquence  very  f'oreijjn  to  our  Northern  ways.  These  al 
frttfit  con  versa  tiiinis  and  wordy  toiirnomfnt*  (javc  an  addi- 
tionul  charm  to  our  progrew,  and  beguiled  the  timv  ver;^^^ 
pieuKautly.  ^ 

AVc  should  have  appreciated  still  more  the  pleasurable 
features  ol'  our  Uanubc  voyn;^  liad  it  not  been  for  the 
intoiii.0  htnt.  On  Muy  the  lyth  wc  lind  fl4*  Fah.  all  flay 
in  the  saloon  caliin,  und  nil  dci^k,  under  the  awnin*;,  we  hud 
»U",  and  on  the  aisf  8S".  The  iitghts  were  co-d.nbout  W, 
but  we  wcri!  told  I  hat  in  a  few  weeks,  by  the  middla  of 
June,  they  would  be  iis  hot  as  the  day.  Whilst  I  was  1l^_ 
C< 'list  ant  inopk*  the  thennfimeter  wn«  never  more  than  ^(^^| 
in  the  day  and  71)°  at  night.  The  greater  heat  of  th^" 
I>antihe  region, considerably  to  tite  north  ofCon-'tanlinopIc, 
at  ihe  same  period  of  the  year,  was  no  douVt  owing  to  iiii 
di»lanec  from  the  rea.  It  w  n  well  known  I'liet  in  phynicul 
gei^^phy  that  all  continental  regions  are  warmer  in 
vuminer  and  colder  in  winter,  than  tlie  aea  shore  ;  the  sen 
watvr  warms  the  atmosphere  in  winter,  eools  it  in  stnnmor. 
Thin  intence  heat  Uxted  all  the  way  to  I*e«th  in  Hungary, 
except  duHn:;  the  few  hnun  that  ire  were  iianKing  lhixHi){b 
D  niouiilatnoiM  region,  vailed  "  Tlie  Gates  of  Iron." 


THE  BALKAN  MOUSTArXiJ. 


82d 


Wo  were  two  niRtiU  snJ  three  daya  st«aminf«  up  tli€ 
Danube  from  Rustcliiik  to  Pe»Ui,  Some  of  our  purty  \<tf 
the  Kt^inmtr  at  Ba«ii(iii.>lt  to  take  the  rail  for  Pnilh,  tlierebr^ 
B»viiiir  twetity-l'our  hour*  river  travutling  at  the  cspetwo  of 
twelve  boui's  on  the  railway — a  lia<l  lurgain  ucconling  to 
my  view  of  thu  ciwu.  ])iirii)<r  all  this  lon^  voyage  wc  were 
panting  inoemautly — at  the  Iroii  (latea  excepted — through^ 
a  low  alluvial  plain,  with  banks  fi-um  onn  to  1hn.>u  firet 
hii-h.  linwi  with  Willuwn  and  PojiUnt,  Pophtr*  and  Willun-a 
Ciniduolly  the  convietioD  forcL's  itself  on  the  mind  that^ 
there  may  be  800  epeciee  of  Salicinie,  aa  described  by  a 
recent  author  in  n  monograph  on  the  Willow  family  I 
TUny  are  vortaiiily  found  every wht-rc,  from  Capo  North  to 
the  "  Waters  of  Babylon,"  wherever  water  cxi^la.  'I'hei-o 
were  other  trees  iu  the  hackyround,  Imt  it  was  difficult,  if 
not  impuMiklc,  lo  recognise  them,  as  the  Kteamer  poaved 
»iviftly  by  «t  norno  diiilancc  from  the  shore ;  they  wero 
clearly  all  nortiiern  types  of  vegi'tation.  The  eoutli  waa 
hidden  frum  our  view  l>y  the  inounlaintt  which  friuge  and 
protect  the  norlh-L-a«tcrn  shore  of  the  Mediterranean.  We 
Were  travelling  due  ciuit  and  west,  on  the  mirth  aide  of 
thcHu  mountuinn,  which  neret:n  the  ciutern  Mediterraneaa 
and  itii  islands  from  noithcru  blasts. 

The  liret  <lay  our  course  was  doe  west,  along  the  northern 
frontivr  of  Bulguna.  On  the  Bouthern  horizon  we  naw,  nU 
day,  ihe  Balkan  chain  of  mountains,  running  east  and  west, 
•nd  covered  with  snow.  At  this  time  of  the  year,  tho 
presence  of  snow  on  a  mountain  in  Intittide  ii"   imptie* 

ktliiit  it  is  at  least  OOOU  fi-vt  high.  ThiM  high  chain  it  is 
that  |ir<iTtvt<  the  ^'l^gean  Sea  and  the  Grecian  Archipelago, 
The  itiilkun  uhnin  ift  continuous  with  other  high  muuntaiii« 
thut  L'untiime  the  protection  westwards;  but  the  principal, 
most  complete,  and  deepest  protection  to  the  north  shoiv« 
of  the  Mediterranean  is  evidently  that  allorded  l>y  tho 
Alps  of  Tyrol  and  Switzerland,  which  form  a  tr^-mendouti 
hairier  to  tho  north  winds.  Tiience  it  Ik  that  on  the 
Oenoese  Riviera  we  huvcOrnngu  and  Lemon  groves,  Palms 
and  tropivul  plants,  and  a  cuniiilcle  absence  of  Irost  in 
eihelti^red  places;  whilst  at  Kust<>huk,  in  nearly  I Im  »amo 
latitude  (io"  dO*),  tho  Danube  is  frozen  down  to  the  sea 


I 


330  THE  EASTERN    UEUITERRAKE&K. 

for  four  montho  every  y«ar.  No  Lnown  fact  in  pfayswal 
^eoieraphy  could  Wtlcr  illiutrate  ihe  iuflueooe  of  protectioa 
se  iV!;ar(l>'  climate  and  vetfCtation. 

Tliii;  journey  in  the  Ka»lein  Mfdilerranutin,  nnd  thtt 
retiini  by  the  l>jiinil)i>,  proved  intoiiwly  ititere«tiD|r 
to  me,  and  eU-ared  away  much  obscurity  from  my  mental 
vUion  reepectiujc  the  olimatu  of  these  iv;;ions  of  tlit 
Mcdittmitican,  which  I  hud  not  previously  viiiitcd.  I 
eonl'eiM  to  having;  rxp£«t<.-d  io  tiud  UvtiocHC  Rivicniii  all  along 
the  ooaet.  I  tliousbt,  guided  by  clueetcul  reminieccncv^ 
that  ll)c  Gi«cian  islunds  were  covered  with  bowrn;  of  llotm 
nnd  gruvcM  of  Oningi-  Uw.  I  tUou>;bt  Smyrun  waa  in  a 
'Palm  foretit  surrounded  «-ith  on'linTiU  of  Lemon  tret's,  snd, 
that  Conetantinople  was  in  vegetation  a  truly  soutlMrm  cityj 
Instvnd  of  this,  I  found  the  Grecian  contl  all  but  devoid  at 
siibtropivul  vcgt-t^tion,  the  Urecinn  iwlands  mere  sunlnirnt, 
wiud-scarred  rockti,  exwpt  in  ■hellrred  folds  or  Dooka; 
Smyrna  c">^^'>"?  IIelii'lro)>i>s  and  Pclai'^Eiiums  in  puts, 
Ornnire  ttcts  only  as  buehee  behind  hijfb  walIf^  with  an 
addltioniil  nliclter  of  trees,  and  Constantinopte  with  an  all 
but  iiorlliern  rcgetntion,  that  of  Mudrid  with  ita  cold 
winter  and  hot  sumtner.  Yet  by  an  nttentive  wrutiny  of 
'the  map,  these  facts  mi^ht  have  been  feretold,  for  tliey  rto 
in  strict  aceorduDce  with  ibe  data  given  by  pkyticat 
geography. 


3U 

PART  II. 

THE  lARGE  ISLANDS  OP  THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

COKSICA. 

ITS  PHraiCAL,  GEOLOGICAL,  BOTANlCAi,  iSD  SOCIAL  CHABACTBWSTICB— 
ITS  HiaiOUY — ITS  CLIUATE — AJACCIO  AND  BASTIA  AS  WINTBB 
STATIONS— ORE ZI A  AND  GDAONO  AS  SUUUEK  8IATIOKS — SAItTKSB, 
BOMFACIO,  AND    THE   EASTEOH    COAST. 

"  Mj  dream  ia  of  an  ialand-place 
Which  distant  seas  keep  lonelr. 
•  •  •  • 

An  islaud  full  of  bills  and  dells 

All  rumpled  and  uneven, 

With  green  recesses,  suddeo  swells, 

And  odorous  valleys  driveD, 

So  deep  and  straight  that  alwHys  there 

The  wmd  is  cradled  to  soft  air." 

r/w  Island.— "E.  B.  Bhowniso. 

Those  who  pasB  the  winter  at  Cannes,  Nice,  and  Men- 
tone  hiive,  generally  speaking,  only  the  wide  expanse  of 
the  Mediterranean  betbre  them.  Occasionally,  hotvever, 
when  the  sea  is  calm  and  the  air  is  peculiarly  clear,  a  bold 
motintiiin  land,  formed  by  a  series  of  irregular  peaks,  is 
distinctly  seen  rising  out  of  the  sea,  "on  the  far  south- 
eastern horizon. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  impression  this  sight  first  pro- 
duced on  me.  I  had  been  some  weeks  at  Mentone,  and 
hail  sat  day  after  day  for  hours  looking  at  the  open  sea, 
which  I  supposed  to  be  a  liquid  desert  for  many  bundrecl 
miles,  us  far  as  the  sundy  coast  of  Africo.  One  morning, 
rising  a  little  after  the  glorious  Mediterranean  stin  had 
emerged  from   the  eastern  ecu,  I  oi>ened  the  window  and 


832 


COBfilOA, 


looked  out.  To  my  amimemenl  I  lelieli)  licfora  nc  a 
lange  of  mountaiu  euminiu,  like  the  Alps  aevn  rroiD  tlie 
plains  of  LomWrdy.  It  appcnrcd  quit«  a  ^limpw  of 
llniryUnd.  A*  tlic  sun  nioc  higlicr  nnti  higher  tliv  dUUnt 
niountaiiiH  l>eeanie  itidictincl,  and  liiially  vanislieil.  Tliia 
wa?  Corsica.  Tl»e  irregular  peaks  were  Ihe  summits  of 
the  Monte  Cinto,  the  Munte  Rolundo,  anil  the  Montu 
d'Oro,  inonnliiinM  from  wii  I«  nine  tlioutuind  fw;t  liigh.  I 
have  often  neaa  tliem  since,  but  aeldum  with  the  Kiiue  vivid . 
distinctness. 

Tlie  p<M-iod  of  the  day  when  tho  Corsiean  notintaina 
are  most  fre^jnently  und  mo<t  vividly  neeu  n  jiwt  before 
BiiiiriM?,  the  sun  during  moat  of  the  Mtntcr  risiin^  lust 
behind  Uium;  as  it  ascands  in  the  heaveni,  they  npidly 


fade  and    diwippear.     Somctimu»,    however,    but    rarely, 

-they  remain  apparent  throughout  th«  day.  Miisvm  vf 
while  cloiido  anchored  on  the  higher  moniilain*  are  onen 
observed.  TlMtt  they  niu  rceltii';  on  tlie  CorHcan  moun- 
tainais  evident  from  their  wmpKle  immobihiy.  Tlie  dis- 
tanee  from  shore  to  i^hure  bi-ing  uliout  nim-tv  miUv,  and  ftt 
least  one  hundixtd  and  thirty  t*j  some  of  tlw  iiighiT  peaks — 
thutdf  Moiitc  d'Oro,  (or  instance— the  first  or  lower  two 

.  i>r  three  ihoUNind  feet  of  CorKiva  omnot  be  seen  at  all, 
under  anv  ooiidiliuii  of  atmoophere,  flwiog  totliv  sphericity 

,  of  the  globft  When  thiui  visible  from  Mcnlonc,  the  view 
of  tluwv  mountains  becomes  mtiuh  more  com)iIct«,  much 
grander,  if  the  higher  levels  are  reached.  From  the  top 
vf  the  Iteroeau  tlie  entire  range  of  the  Corsiii^iu  highlands 

.  is  IMU. 


AB  8BEN  FROM    HEifTONS. 


333 


J 


Tliesc  oucnmnal  g1iinp»u»  t>S  a  rur-dutiint  lurid  impart  to' 
Cunica  u  kind  of  myetcriuuD  cliarin.  We  liiive  our  heJi» 
placed  in  view  of  thu  i-aat  winduwe,  thitt  vte  mny  nwHk<;  hy, 
timi-'H  in  tliv  morniH<*,  muiI  Loth  luKurii>uyt)'  enjoy  tlio  riiii;;. 
nirioeiit  lities  uf  tbo  riain^  sun  rejected  on  cloud  and  uutcr, 
aud  also  etAii  the  liorixon  for  the  "fair  ifiluod."  Wiica 
seen  in  the  duy,  all  coinmunioute  to  oiiu  Jtiiothttr  tlw  im- 
portant bvt ;  tlie  mure  intcreetiiiK  from  it^  portviidini;, 
according  to  the  local  neather-wiMi,  a  brvak-tip  in  the 
weather — rain,  or  otorui^u  eUitumunt  whii^h  ray  uwu  «x- 
ptriencc  li-iidH  nie  U>  duubt,  Great  dpurncsii  of  tJic  atmo- 
■|)here  means  drynewi  and  northerly  wiuda,  which  io  wiiiler 
in  this  region  imply  tho  pruhablo  continiiunco  of  tinu 
W«atlier. 

I  may  Mifuly  asttert  that  nearly  the  entire  Kn^li^li  j>opu. 
lation  of  M^ntono,  nodur  the  influence  of  thi'sx  fceliiiKii, 
ia  unci)  winter  puwesw-'d  with  u  ntronv  dniru  to  vitiit 
CoreicH,  Not  only  was  this  desire  all  but  irreHiatiblu 
with  mu,  bat  [  had  other  rcaiiona  for  wishing  to  explore  its 
Bliom  and  mountain  land, 

I  bad  become  deeply  impressed  with  the  unhygienic, 
unhealthy  state  of  the  liir>;e  Iomiis  of  tho  south,  mii-nuiiKil 
bealtJi-town!'.  I  had  become  evnviuevd  that,  owing  to  thv 
■twenoe  of  hygienic  precantions,  all  the  large  eeutrea  of 
population  in  tho  soutJi  of  Kiiropo,  pernicious  to  tho  stron;; 
and  sound  who  inhabit  titcm,  are  totally  unlit  for  tho 
dioejiKed,  health -seeking  community.  Aa  a  nceiWMiry 
sc<|uenee,  the  only  safe  residences  for  auoh  invalids  iire 
snuill,  viKtrM-ly-popnlalcd  places,  such  as  Hyi-res,  Cannes, 
Mi^ntonc,  San  U^-mu,  <>r  the  suburha  of  townn  vuch  as  i'uu 
and  Nioe,  in  which  extra-urban  villas  have  been  built  ex- 
pressly fur  invalids^  These  really  lieullhy  winter  staliuna, 
however,  lire  not  niimerou*,  and  I  wim  unxiouH  to  incrcasu 
their  number,  and  believed  that  I  miiihl  find  in  Cvr«ica 
i^od  winter  rci^idences.  I  also  hoped  to  dUcovur  in  its 
higliliinilH  u  cool  mountain  locality  fit  for  a  summer  station, 
^H  ft  want  much  lelt  by  those  who  winter  in  the  south,  and  do 
^H  not  wish  to  return  to  En;;liind  in  the  summer. 
^H  On  iiKjiiirv  OK  to  the  means  of  reaching  Corsica,  I  cmdd 
^Bgain  but  little  information  at  Mealono,     None  of  the  ia- 


8d4 


CORSICA. 


habitants  Imd  ever  been  llifin*,  and  tliey  Mmnptl  to 
upon  it  ns  »  very  inaccei^ible  place,  in  a  state  bonleriiiL^ 
on  biirUirism.  I  therefore  wrote  to  "  the  principal"  book- 
seller at  IJiistia,  the  chief  toirn,  for  a  Ria]>  and  u  luc«l 
^nide,  and  lo  Marseillea  and  Genoa  for  infotnuitioa  about 
BteamcTV.  In  dtic  course  I  received  the  infomiatjon  applied 
for,  and  fifund,  as  iiiiiinl,  that  ovcry  difticidty  viiniiihed, 
1  uW  met  with  two  vciy  anrreeoble  travelling  compimiottH, 
on  Kngliiih  elerf^ymsn  ana  his  lady,  with  nhou)  I  left 
M<'ntoiie  for  OuKiu  April  the  I'lth,  ISfii,  by  the  bcaiiliful 
Kiviera  road.  Two  Kugliah  kdie*  subaetjucntly  joined  ua^J 
at  Ajaccio.  ^H 

Wc  entered  Genoa  on  a  lovely  Eummcr  afternoon,  and^ 
found  the  entire  uopiiliition  oiit-ol'>doora  iii  holiday  o-xtnme. 
Genoa  looked  as  nenutiful  and  intereeting  ua  it  always  doca 
in  fine  wcatlu-r.  The  nest  morning  1  went  to  looV  after 
Uic  Hteamcr,  which  «tart«  ^^'^|/  Baturday  at  9  r.M.  for 
Baatia,  touching  at  Ijegliorn.  To  my  diamny  1  found  tliut 
H  WUB  my  old  friend,  or  enemy,  the  t'irgilio.  I  imngini'd 
it  had,  mnny  yeani  ago,  been  broken  up,  either  by  th« 
vrinds  nn<l  wavea,  or  by  the  Imnd  of  man.  lliere  was, 
however,  no  help  for  it,  no  other  boat  went  to  Coraioa,  and 
to  tlic  Virgilio   we  hail  to  entruitl  oiirM-lves. 

The  weather  was  heautiiid,  the  aky  clear,  the  sea  calm, 
the  Ijaronieter  at  »et  fair,  nud  this  time  the  old  boat  dowly 
but   surely   performed   her   allotted    task.      We  steanun 
(]iiietly  along  the  cuovt,  silting  on  deek,  and  enjoying  th« 
bcauiiru)  Boenery  until  dark.     Then   we   went  down  and 
elept  until  we  reached  Leghorn  early  the  next  morning, 
but  eevi-ral  hours  later  than  we  should  have  done  by  oiio 
of  the  ordinary  Leiihorn  steamers.     AlW  unlouding  cat^ 
at  Legliom,  and  taking  in  puoeungere  and  eoods,  wu  agni 
started  nt  nine,  and  arrived  salely  at  ll«#tia  at  five  in  Uia 
afternoon,   the  u»ual   pussage    by  a    good  steamer    fron 
Leghorn  being  five  or  six  hours. 

The  engineer  was  u  short,  stout,  good-hnmourod  coun-' 
trj-man  of  oun,  and  an  interesting  at>ecimvn  of  the  philo- 
eophical  roving  Englishman,  lie  was  burn  and  bretl,  he 
told  me,  at  Liverpool,  auil  hud  come  to  the  Mcditeminctin 
some  twelve  yean  previous;  he  luid  served  in  every  ]Mrt  of 


^ 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  CORSICA. 


335 


that  mn,  and  hsd  never  once  been  bntne.  He  hud  married 
in  Itiilian  woman,  w-lio  lived  wilh  his  children  at  Genoa. 
Hie  pitjr  ws«  good,  mid,  an  lie  wan  qiiiU^  (romfurtithle  im<l 
hnppy,  b«  had  no  wiith  whatever  to  return  to  Kngtand, 
The  rirffilio  was  a  ^od  eea  boat,  and  her  «ni;ine«  alM 
wore  good,  but  b«tli  were  very  old— he  i)rc'i»umnl  at  leant 
thirty  years.  She  was,  he  said,  alow  hut  sure,  and  aafe  i» 
N  Btorin,  »9,  indeed,  I  hud  found  her  many  years  ago. 

On  a  fine  warm  Biimmer'n  day,  such  m  we  wero  fortu- 
nate «notiKh  to  enjoy  on  the  ISth  of  April,  with  an  ull 
hut  cnlm  sea,  the  pas»njje  from  Ije^fhorn  to  Ilastta  ia  very 
enjuyable.  Ah  tlie  vovkcI  rpcedtw  I'rom  the  m^nlmd,  llic 
fine  marble  mixintainH  nf  Mnxiia  Carrsro  are  th«  [ir(.tnii- 
nent  I'l-ature.  Then  as  they  become  tndintinct,  the  iatand  of 
Klba  and  the  mountditis  of  Coretca  come  into  view.  Klba, 
frtim  l)u?  nea,  npp«nT«  merely  n  innM  of  rook*  and  mountAiiiM, 
with  but  little  evidence  of  vegetation.  Still  it  will  ever  be 
int<- res  ting  to  thu  traveller  im  the  first  [>ri80Q  home  of 
Uap'leon  the  Uicat. 

How  ein^iUr  his  fat*.  Bom  and  brought  up  in  Condcn, 
be  linally  tcH  it  ut  the  a^  of  twenty-three.  With  the 
exception  of  a  few  lioura  pavih.-d  at  Ajaceio  on  his  return 
from  the  eampaifrn  of  E^rypt  ( 1 79'.*),  he  never  naw  C'ltMioa 
again  antil,  hurled  from  the  hei|fht  of  human  power,  lie 
wax  chiiincd  to  thia  roclty  i«l«t,  within  view  of  bM  native 
land.  Between  these  two  e|iodia  of  bin  life,  events  all  bat 
any>»ralMud  in  ht«torv  had  taken  place.  He,  tlie  humble 
Ciii'iiuiui  lUildier,  had  U'en  a  t^rL-at  emperor,  a  kin:;- maker 
anil  a  kiiiu-desl rover,  aiid  bad  wielded  tJM  lives  of  men  as 
if  ihey  lind  been  mere  Band  on  the  aea-^hore,  KlUi  in  the 
first  land  th.it  vividly  reculls  to  mind  the  great  Cornican 
hero.     From  that  moment  hiw  memory  wn*  acureely  ever 

Iibaent  Irom  my  thoiiirhts.  It  pervades  hia  entire  irntive 
coiinlry,  and  n  indeKtriiirtihly  mixed  up  with  its  past  and 
present  history.  Indeed,  it  throws  a  kind  of  halo,  if  [  may 
use  the  term,  over  the  entire  island. 
Two  other  isUndtt  are  aUo  iiinHcd,  Capnija  und  .\toiite 
Cristo.  They  are  both  mei-e  l>iirr«n  m'.iuntuinonH  nick»,  but 
healthy,  and  catiahle  of  bein^  rendered  very  fertile  by  human 
lubuur  under  the  lifv-giviiiir  sotilhera  sun.     Cupraja  m  ecle- 


836 


CORSICA. 


Iratx'd  in  the  piniit  liiatory  of  Corsica  from  havirtpr  been  for 
vi'titiirk-M  a  tu-lJ  ut'  buitltt  buttvecii  Uiu  Gviiouki;  «itd  ihe 
Conteans. 

Monte  Crifto,  which  Km  i<^ven  its  nnme  to  Diimns'  cell 
brntod  nnv«l,  \»  a  xinull,  iininhubitvd  ixlct,  that  aUr4ict 
attention  name  lew  years  ago  througli  the  adveiitunM  uiit! 
niihfortuncs  of  it«  owner — ono  of  our  countrymen.  This 
tfentlemim  ptirchneed  th«  vntire  tsltind,  »n>l  xatlard  upnn  it 
in  Uiv  regiilnr  Itobintioti  Crusoe  style,  muDnreh  of  iill 
surveyed.  He  ^^radulllly  brought  a  con§i(leratr1e  area  uud« 
cultivation,  etarleil  a  uteainor  of  his  own,  and  suecoedeil  i^ 
esilablixhing  a  tloiirisUin^  littl«  colony.  MiHfortgne,  bov 
ever,  overtook  him  in  the  shape  of  tlio  Italian  revolation.-^ 
Some  Oiiribuhlians,  on  their  nny  to  Sicily,  landed  in  the 
island,  and  {lilk^ed  it.  Our  country inati'a  nyuiputhiM  were 
with  the  Uubo  of  'i'uHcany,  those  of  (he  sis  soldiers  and  of 
tliei  Brrsicimt,  their  eommandoT,  who  formed  the  istunji 
gniird.  were  with  the  revohiljonaty  Bide.  TItvy  qiiiirrellvd^ 
lie  WMtt  inxulted,  and  Wft  the  island,  and  the  oumjiletc'  niin 
of  the  oolony  rapidly  followed.  Uedress  was  sought  in  tliOj 
Italian  courts,  but  without  KUecees.  The  Goveramoat 
fti«ed  to  reco^iiine  the  acta  of  tlie  Uivleis  (iuribuMiurm  in 
this  the  early  stat>e  of  their  career,  and  the  Elba  inag^iBtrutcH, 
8idin(r  with  llm  irergeiint  and  his  men,  Rm-d  our  unfortu- 
nate cDuntivman  lor  rebellion  agaiimt  the  "  Ofn^titutcd 
BU til  unties. 

The  Kn;;li*h  Parliament  wna  called  upon  to  take  Ul^ 
part  of  the  Kiiglisli  proprietor,  but,  afU-r  u  long  delint«, 
the  minister  refiutH]  to  intc^rfera  between  the  juirlies. 
TliiiH  <'nded  an  En[>lisli man's  dream  of  «  little  tnonaruhy  in 
t\n-  Itidiaii  MUX.  We  have  all  of  ut>,  in  our  voulbl'ul  duyi 
Iflnt;ed  tor  the  poeses^tun  of  jn^t  such  an  inland  as  Mont 
Cristo.  and  cannot  hnt  feel  doop  commiseration  fur  th< 
miafurtiincs  of  one  who  had  ihut:  bravely  n-alizcd  the  boy'l 
|Kint'It!ie.  llut  ia  not  the  dowufHll  of  the  little  empir 
explained  by  the  evident  want  of  sympathy  of  the  king 
Monte  Cristo  for  the  popular  Italian  cause?  Ifso,  he  bn 
laUitn  with  ihe  ]>olitical  jMirty  he  e.'>p»ui'i-d,  with  hia  friend' 
the  Duke  of  Tuscany.  It  is  a  pottlicul,  an  hiAtoricnl  full, 
and  not  a  Hueiitl  one. 


THE  ISLAND  OP  MOSTE  CRISTO. 


337 


f 


Ar  Coratca  is  apjiroached  iU  JiSpioe  ohanicter  1>eeoni«8 
evident ;  it  riti««  tVoin  tlio  aea  as  a  chain  of  mountiniis 
extondiiif*  from  iiurlli  U>  Koiith.  At  tliu  biuoment  liule 
lismlotJ<  are  seen,  Bve  hundred  »r  a  llioiitiaiid  fuet  aliovc  the 
■eo-Ievel,  clin|i;in^  to  the  nood -clothed  mountain  sideei. 
The  town  of  Biictia  is  not  di<cov«>rcd  until  wo  arv  but  » 
few  miln  from  the  coiut ;  it  then  appears  iw  a  clu>t«r  of 
white  houses  rising  gently  above  the  shore. 

We  landed  in  a  small  and  secure  harbour,  but  so  niir* 
rowed  hy  the  jetty  that  in  bod  w-uather  tlic  untr^tnci!  is 
very  ditTicult.  Some  years  ago  the  mail  steamer  was  lost 
through  ittrikiDS  njtaiust  tliis  jettv  in  a  stormy  ni;;lit,  and 
forty  Houls  perished,  aUhoa;;h  \vithin  a  lew  led  of  the 
shore.  As  wc  roxved  '(uictly  in,  for  our  uti-amer  wa*  g^ing 
on  to  Porto  l^orrcs  in  Sardinia  anil  hud  sti>p|)ei)  out- 
side, the  precise  spot  where  ibe  vessel  bad  struck  wits 
pointed  out  to  uw.  It  wait  all  but  within  the  little  harbour 
and  so  near  land  that  it  was  difficult  to  undenttund  the 
catastrophe.  With  the  calm,  smooth  sea  we  then  had,  the 
entire  crew  mip;ht  have  jumped  ashore. 

Another  and  larger  port  is  now  being  con.itnictod,  to  Ihe 
north-cnst,  by  means  of  litr;^-  blocks  of  arlilieial  stone. 
Thesi'  hlo'.'kH  are  made  on  the  spot,  of  Immense  size,  and 
of  any  requiri^  furni,  and  much  facilitate  the  comttniction 
of  piers  and  sea-walls.  The  new  port  of  La  Juliette,  at 
Marseille*,  has  been  made  in  this  way.  The  onstructioD 
of  this  harbour  will  be  a  great  advantage  to  Baittia,  the 
smull  port  of  which  ia  now  inconveniently  crowded  with 
shipping. 

The  channel  bclweon  Italy  and  Corsica  is  considered  a 
smooth  Bca,  for  Corsica  act*  ju  u  brwkwater  lo  the  sDuth- 
west  and  north-west;  but  still  there  is  occasionally  a  very 
heavy  0ca  in  it,  as  1  )iad  exjicricnccd  to  my  sorroiv.  This 
is  more  cspvcially  the  case  when  •uuth-west  or  north-easl 
winds  reign. 

Many  years  ago,  in  1839,  when  resident  medical  officer 
in  till!  I'aris  hospitals,  I  had  a  friend,  a  youiiir  Comican 
physician,  M.  I'iccioni,  a  clever,  energetic  man,  whose  pro. 
iexniuiial  projects  were  even  then  considered  very  good. 
Our  fiienusbip  shared  the  fate  of  many  eucb  fgatbiul  tics ; 


388 


CORSICA. 


wc  parted,  ]ie  for  liU  nntivo  countnr,  1  for  mine,  and  niero 
heard  of  each  othvr  iipiiii.  Ai<  fuun  ns  wc  were  conifort>' 
ably  §eLtW  in  the  Hotel  de  I'Kiirojw,  an  inn  vi-ry  eimilar 
to  nhat  we  should  find  ill  a  email  French  contiii«tital  town 
out  oC  the  track  of  tourists,  I  inquired  Icr  the  fneiid  of 
former  diiyH.  To  mv  delight  and  surprise  1  found  that  ha 
was  alive,  a  llouriBhin^,  universally  efteemed  mnn,  and 
Bcturdly  tivin;;  nt  Bastia.  I  had  also  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tiun  to  J>r.  Manl'mdi,  hviul  Mir-^'on  to  the  Ila«ti»  ho^pitalj 
and  th(-  leading  operating  tturgeoii  of  the  island.  We  were 
inoHt  cordially  welcoined,  1  aud  iny  coropunions,  both  by 
the  old  and  now  friend,  and,  thanks  to  them,  ever  after 
felt  (juite  at  htime  in  the  iitlnnd.  Tliey  tinii^rerred  ua  to 
other  friends  and  relatives  at  each  sucicuiive  stage  of  our 
prii(>T««^,  and  as  vte  were  everywhere  received  with  great 
conliidily,  wc  pmnpered  wherever  our  dU-ps  were  directed. 

W'l  rctDninvil  »cim<.>  diiytt  at  Haatia,  i-xplorin;^  the  towa 
and  itR  neiglibourhood,  awl  then  went  to  Sun  Fioronzo, 
From  thence  we  pursued  our  journey  to  C'alvi,  to  Ooi 
and  linally  to  Ajiic-cio,  whunce  we  eml>ur)ie<l  for  MiirwilL 
having  pB«Jii-d  ihroc  week»  very  enjoyably  in  the  inland. 
The  w>-ftther  wi»  splendid  from  first  to  last,  the  mountains 
u  ere  ever  pure  in  i>utlin<r  and  free  from  clouile,  the  sky  was 
blue,  the  eun  shone  hri'^htly,  no  rain  ftili,  and  the  counUy 
wn)!  in  the  glory  of  eurly  auinmcr,  of  poelieal  npring, 

1  ehuU  uow  endeavour  to  convey  to  my  readers,  as  hriefl^ 
a»  poi^siblo,  the  resiille  of  the  experienev  gainvd  during  Uita 
oscurMon,  ax  aW  during  two  subsequent  tours  made  in  tlw 
inlunil  in  the  spring  of  1805  and  in  that  of  l86(!>. 

('i>i«ica  is  the  third  largOKt  inland  in  the  McKJiterranoan, 
j-Sicily  and  Sardinia  lieing  both  of  greater  siie.  It  is 
'sittiuted  between  41'  and  -WT  of  north  latitude,  and 
betivecn  0"  and  7*  of  cast  longitude.  The  diiitanev^  from 
the  coast  of  Italy  iw  M  miles,  from  that  of  France  tlOj  ita 
length  in  IIT)  miles,  its  greatest  breadth  about  M  mllea. 
Corsica  is  a  mere  mass  of  alpine  ridge«  rising  nut  of  theses 
like  a  veasel ;  the  mountains  attaining  the  highest  elevatioD 
in  the  eentr*-. 

Two  mountain  ranges  form  the  isluud^  moDing 


THE  CALCAREOUS  AND  GRANITE  MOUNTAINa    339 

tudinally  tlirougfa  it  fVom  nortlt  to  Bouth.  Tho  «ulftra 
range  commiftiues  nt  Ciipo  Corso,  ■  iiiirrow  lonptadinat 
tnoiintiin,  some  .^unii  feet  lii^h,  and  mare  Itiuo  20  miles 
loii^,  tlie  base  of  wbich  is  bnthed  by  the  sea  both  cnst  mid 
west.  This  rang«  is  ocwondiiry,  caleareotia,  ond  denwiida  to 
the  ecnith  ut  »  modurnte  eleviition.  The  aecond  rauge  is 
primitive,  granitic ;  it  commences  near  the  weat  ooaet  at 
Isolu  Ko£sa,  rises  rapidW  to  a  height  of  HOUO  and  9000  Tect, 
nod  rune  through  thu  i»liind  down  to  its  Moutbern  vxtremily, 
to  wiUijn  a  short  distaiioe  of  JloiiilUcio. 

The  dilTerent  geological  nature  of  these  two  mountain 
ranf^es  has,  in  the  course  of  countlem  ogM,  modified  tho 
cliorautur  of  tlic  coHern  und  weKtvrn  «horet>. 

Tlie  eastern  range,  composed,  aa  stated,  of  secondary 
oalcanoiM  rocks,  is  more  easily  dieint«>;ratod  anil  wnshcu 
ftwuy  by  tlie  action  of  the  dvmunlA  Owing  to  lhi>i  cniisd 
the  rivers  which  descend  from  its  sides,  and  from  the  cetitml 
regions  of  the  ialatid,  through  clcl^s  which  these  calcareous 
mountains  present,  have  <li![)oiiitvd  at  their  base  nllnvi^il 
plains  of  consiilerablc  extent.  Through  these  rieh  olluviul 
plains  Hcvcrat  Inrgt:  titreiinis  meander  to  rosolt  the  sea. 
This  tlicy  :icconii>ltith  wilii  difficulty,  owing  to  the  lowneaa 
of  tho  shore,  and  to  the  prevalence  of  the  scirooco  or  Kouth- 
eaet  wind,  whioh  constanlly  throws  up  largo  msaBea  of  Mild 
at  tliuir  inoullM.  Hence  the  formation  along  the  eoatern 
shore  of  large  ealt-water  ponds  and  marshes,  into  which 
aomc  of  the  rivers  empty  themselves. 

Under  thv  tiuming  glare  of  u  Mediterranean  sun  Ihese 
terrestrial  conditions^largo  jiouds  of  brackish  water, 
martbn,  and  rich  alluvial  plains,  liable  to  periodical  over- 
flow— embody  all  the  elements  calculated  to  produce 
muUrious  fevers  of  the  most  deadly  olinmdor,  und  hy  such 

Ifevcm  in  this  i*^on  rendered  all  but  uninhabitable  for  ioiir 
months,  from  June  to  October. 
Tho  western,  primary,  granitic  range  of  mountnins  is  iho, 
real  backbone  of  the  island.  It  must  have  been  thrown  up 
long  before  the  wioonilary  nutteni  range,  is  very  much 
higher,  and  is  covered  in  some  regions  with  eternal  snow, 
Thiit  range  is  jagged  and  irregular  m  iuoutline.   It  throws 


840  ooneioA. 

out  bifth  fjrimilie  spiire  towards  the  wegt^m  *ea,  wm 
extern)  into  tlic  fun,  uni)  funn  (le«p  bays  or  gulfs,  aa  u  us 
willi  primary  rtn-ks, 

Thoee  spurs  divitlo  the  western  eide  of  tlie  i»tftn<l  into 
Hc<!]i,  niiJc,  picturi^squv  valli-ys.  At  the  bottom  of  eaoh 
valit^y  riina  a  Imin-liiii^  utruam,  wUidi  CMrrirx  to  the  nea  the 
wattrrslied  of  the  bi^h  anotr^lo*!  mountains,  cttd  fonnn  an 
ulliivial  plain,  of  ([rentor  or  less  ext«iit,as  it  neara  the  e.>a»t. 

DUintogration,  however,  durio;;  the  (;oologicat  period 
has  been  alow,  owing  to  the  frrauilio  obaraotvr  of  t)i« 
mountains,  and  the  rivers  have  earned  less  soil  to  the  am 
tlinii  thiiSL-  of  the  eaitflrn  or  calcareous  tide  of  the  island. 
The  ulliiviul  plain*  are,  conitetiuontljr,  all  hut  ronlJiied  to 
tho  mountain  ralleja,  and  the  sea  is  very  deep  near  the 
shore.  On  this  side  of  the  island  are  all  the  natnral  por(«, 
with  lh«  exception  of  that  of  Porto  Veocbio  on  the  rctitb- 
enst  coant.  Thus  there  are  no  ponds,  the  niarehea  are 
small  in  extent,  limited  to  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
outlet  of  tlie  rivers,  and  intermittent  and  remittent  fevers 
in  comparison  are  by  no  means  so  common. 

The  npun  which  limit  the  w«Ktorn  valleys  being  verj 
rugged  and  of  greut  height,  the  peasants  who  inhabited 
them  were  all  bm  cut  olf  in  former  days  from  commtmica- 
tion  uilh  mankind,  on  every  siile  Imt  that  of  the  seu,  A 
CottMt  roiid  which  aKcetiilK  and  descends  the  granitic  ridges, 
l)a«  been  recently  completed  from  Bonifacio  to  j\juocio« 
Porto,  Ciilvi,  IhoU  RoHNa,  and  Bustift.  As  there  is  also  a 
giicd  roa4l  from  Uastia  to  Bonifaeio  on  the  eastcru  ooa8t> 
Corsica  is  now  completely  encircled  by  a  carriage  rood 
connt^Iing  every  region  of  the  coast. 

Hetweeii  the  eastern  and  the  western  rnngn  of  moun- 
tains there  is  a  highland  counlry,  an  otevated  mediterranean 
area  of  mounlaim?  and  vallcj's,  which  forms  about  one-fifth 
of  the  entire  HLipcrficies  of  the  island. 

The  botanical  productions  of  Corsica  aarimilate,  as  might 
be  prettuuied,  to  those  of  the  countries  that  surround  it. 
The  north,  by  il«  vogclation,  approximates  to  the  Kiviera, 
the  «wt  to  the  Italian  coast,  the  w«l  to  Provence  and 
Sjxain,  whilst  the  south,  and  I  may  amy  the  entire  island, 
showa  decided  African  affinities.     Indeed,  in  a  subsoqacnt 


TBK  CHESTNUT  AXD  OLTVE  TREES. 


341: 


urvey  of  Al^i'riii  rikI  Mount  Wian,  I  was  rather  surprised 
to  fiuid  the  v«g:cUtioii  of  the  granitic  itml  Kuliixlio  regions 
ofXiw  AtlaH  mountains  alt  but  itluiiticail  with  the  vegetution 
of  tliMK  Mme  formxtions  in  Corsiua.  1 

In  the  plains  on  the  coat^t,  vemals  aikI  Indian  corn  are 
)*rown  in  coiisideiablo  abuiit]an<v,  aitil  Mioc-vud  adaiiraUy. 
Tli«  Wullicrrv  Irt-e,  alw,  it  cuUi»'Hled  in  great  ptrlVclion, 
and  su-  the  diinalu  i»  «ui(ed  Ijoth  to  its  groutii  and  tu  the 
rL-ai-iD:>of  the  b  ilk  worm,  there  is  a  grcuit  i>|)<.'iiin|{  in  this 
dirwlion  for  the  Coreicans.  On  the  lower  crclaeoout 
bilk  and  valliiyti  the  Olive  tree  ahoiiuda  and  llourixluw. 
The  Vine  ia  alito  eiiltivated  with  great  eucivM,  mid  admi< 
ralilo  wine  is  m»de,  of  rather  a  fiilUbodiod  chnrueter, 
etipiriatly  oti  Capo  Corao  aiid  alwil  Surtcue.  Ilighor  up, 
Uic  <;1R-Htijut  tree  gromi  to  a  inagnirii:eiit  aize,  and  piodticvn 
fruit  of  the  very  beet  (jiiality.  Kntiro  dietriutu,  ei>|ii'i-i»lly 
on  the  eastern  aide  nC  tli<?  tiLaiid,  arc  oovcrn)  with  9plL-iidiil 
('he*liiiit  fon*ls.  One  of  the  eustem  dintrictii,  indei'd, 
having  Uie  litUo  town  of  PiediMOcc  for  ita  centre,  is  mIIcJ 
the  Caslagniccia,  or  Chewtnut  coantry.  It  haa  ever  bean 
IkmouB  in  history  for  the  unconquerable  intrepidity  nnd 
love  of  freedom  of  its  inhiibttimts.  Throughout  ovntunva 
of  tyranny  and  oppromiou  in  Corsiea  tliey  were  never 
entiiely  ttubdtied,  Ni>d  thut  nritieipally  owing  to  their 
Clioliitit  trees.  Fornierlv.  and  even  now,  their  main  food 
is  the  ChuMtnut,  with  ntiFislun<.«  from  the  oil  of  the  Olivtf 
trees,  the  wine  of  Uie  Viaiw,  and  the  llcah  aud  milk  of 
tlH-ir  iche«p. 

The  Chestnut  tree  wants  no  cultivation  whatever,  no 
watching.  Like  the  Bre«)>fruit  ti'eu  of  tho  tropics,  it 
producer  fruit  thtit  only  tetiuiri-a  i^nlheiin^  when  Hpe,  und 
tn  thia  ciiniitte  it  never  fails  to  produce  a  crop.  Tims  tho 
inhabitants  of  the  Caotiigiiiet'ia  could  light  all  the  year 
ronnd  and  yet  live.  They  nii^ht  bo  hemmed  in  on  all  nide* 
in  their  moimtuin  fastnesses,  nil  iugiesa  might  be  »top|>ed 
for  years,  and  yd  they  Sotiri^hcd.  Ttie«o  times  havt*  parsed 
away,  and  «inoe  the  end  of  the  lust  eAnltiry  thvru  haa  t>«uii 
l>eace  in  Cornea ;  still  tho  inhnhiUuta  of  the  CiwI«k- 
ni<v;iii  mtain  thi-ir  diwullory  hahitti.  They  live,  I  am  told, 
4U  auhcr   idleitees,   (Jay   at  cardSf   talk   i>ulitt<s  all   day, 


342  COBSICA. 

snd  work  as  little  m  Uicy  can  poesibljr  help.  Their 
nrtifici»l  modern  wants,  even,  an  csunW  tiiippliral  l>jr  llie 
lule  of  tlic  KurpIiiE  chestnut  crop,  now  rendered  easy  by 
the  increased  fucilily  of  commnnication  with  iho  CoiitiiHinC. 

The  cultivation  of  tliv  OHvv  tree  on  n  large  imlc  would 
oppcflt  to  engender  the  same  apathy  and  disineli nation  to 
work  on  the  part  of  the  peasantry.  There  is  a  region 
called  the  Hatagna,  est«itding  from  San  Fiorenxo  to  Calvi, 
compriiiinK  smiling  limetttonc  hillii  and  lovely  fertile 
vnllcye,  which  is  a  very  cArden  of  Olive  trees.  It  is 
renowned  throughout  the  island  for  its  richncM  and  for 
its  luxuriant  fertility.  A  IcMling  proprietor  inrunned  me 
that  th«  peasantry,  all  proprietors,  led  the  same  "/ar 
iile«l«"  life  of  easy  enjoyment  as  their  ooantrymvn  in  tlio 
Chestnut  distrieta.  The  Olive  tmi  requires  u  Ultic  more 
trouble,  it  is  true,  than  tlie  Chestnut ;  it  haa  to  be  pruned 
and  manured  ovcrj*  year  or  two,  the  fniit  has  to  be  crusliod, 
tind  the  oil  »old.  Still  all  thi»,  like  the  labour  of  the  Irish 
eotticr  on  his  potato-ground,  tak<Hi  but  little  time.  Kvery 
year  or  two  an  abundant,  easily-earned  harvest  of  oil  pays 
off  debts  and  leaves  a  surplus  to  live  on  until  the  next  W 
ready.  AVhy  should  he  work,  sayR  the  peaiiaiit.  whoa  liia 
future  18  thus  Mcure?  People  cannot  live,  however,  upon 
oil  alone.  It  roust  be  sold  to  maintain  the  grower,  and 
owing  to  this  rcnson,  no  dotibt,  the  Bulngnn  huM  from  time 
immemoriul  iK-t-n  Mincjucred  and  held  by  those  who  were  in 
iwsseasion  of  the  adjawot  coast. 

There  is  a  good  carriag*  rond  from  Cnlvi  to  Code,  whicb 
InWeK  the  traveller  through  purt  of  the  fertile  smiling 
Biilugna,  and  also,  at  a  later  stage  of  the  journey,  tbrougu 
interesting  mountain  scenery.  A  day  diligvnco  travda 
along  this  roiul  every  otlier  day,  and  I  have  twice  per- 
formi-d  the  journey,  with  even  more  pleasuio  the  second 
time  than  the  lii-st.  Sheltered  l>y  billy  motintains  from  th« 
south-west  soa  winds,  pruLeclvd  from  the  north  an<l  eaat, 
the  tIaU<{na  appcnrvd  to  me  truly  the  abode  of  penoq  and  of 
plenty,  with  it«  Olivo  and  fruit  trees,  its  Vioos  and  CereaU, 
«nd  ito  pros|>erous-louking  villages,  each  with  their  <)iuiint 
Jittle  eburcli.  The  summer  beat  must  be  intense,  as  ait 
evidence  of  which  fact  I  measured  an  old  Cacouba  treo  A 


I 


niSTOIilCAL  STRUOCLEa. 


S43 


little  beyond  Ponf«  Veg;li»  twenty-eight  feet  three  indicK  m 
eircumfctwncc,  three  feet  from  the  proond  *  On  this 
joamoy  I  for  the  first  time  met  with  villagee,  all  the 
oabiiiAor  whioh  had  Hat  roufit.  Sudi  a  conatmctiaii  implies 
iiiteneely  warm  summer  iiighte,  and  an  npproxitnatiun  to 
the  Eiist  iind  to  the  customs  of  il»f  inhitlitunlit. 

Ahiive  the  range  of  the  tJliestnut  tree  we  meet  with  the 
Finu§  Muritimo,  And  ahovo  that,  alonj;  with  it  in  come 
rcgioDii,  the  Piniw  Lurix  or  Larch.  Tins  tree  'i»  a  native 
of  Corsica,  and  in  no  part  of  Europe  doei«  it  gruw  to  (greater 
luxiirianoe  and  periection.  In  Mome  of  the  priinitive  loreste, 
noble  tri'ce,  more  thita  ISO  feet  in  height,  are  found. 
Above  the  Pinw  comes  the  Beech,  then  the  JJJreli,  and 
then  the  eternal  snows. 

The)»  details  of  physical  ntructurc  explain  the  history 
orwica.  A«  in  most  moiinliiin  regions  of  a  simiUr  cha- 
tter, for  niiml)erlesi(  centuries,  from  days  anterior  to 
thoMt  of  the  Romans,  it«  iiihubitaDtit  were  at  war  with 
their  ueinhhours,  all  of  whom  in  aucceMion  tried  to  conquer 
them.  Tlie  shores  and  shore-toWDfl  were  auecrraively  in 
the  possession  of  the  Greeks,  tlie  Romaim,  the  Samcuns, 
the  Spaniards,  the  TuMcans,  the  Genoese,  and  linally,  of 
the  French.  Itut  the  mountaineers  were  never  contpiered. 
Altornatvly  defeated  or  vicloriuuN,  they  ever  niaiiituined 
their  independenee.  Conqueror*,  ther  drove  the  invadeiH 
from  their  native  Boil.  Conquered,  they  retreated  to  their 
mountain  fastneeaw,  to  the  primitive  forceta  which  still 
cover  a  concidcmbls  porliou  of  the  iKl»n<l,  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  eternal  anow.  I'liere,  who  durst  follow 
them  ?  The  attempt  only  brought  destruction  upon  their 
purBucrg.  Such  was  ever  the  history  of  this  Hmall  com- 
munity, then  not  ntimhering  much  ahove  a  huudred  thou- 
sand souU  i  aa  noble  a  race  of  fi-ee  men  as  ever  trod  the 
eiurth. 

llm  history  of  Corsica  w  full  of  heroes,  of  heroic  deedK, 
of  romantic  achievements.  Rich  succi'Snive  century  bore 
patriots  over  ready  to  «tcrifico  iheir  fortunM  and  their  lives 
for  their  country,  ua  in  the  heroii!  days  of  early  Rome.  Nor 
were  the  opportunities  fur  doing  so  wantinj^;  no  sooner 
wu*  one  enemy  disced  of  tluu  another  appeari^l.     Peace 


844 


CORSICA. 


t 


never  Iflsted  more  timtt  a  r<^-  }-c*n>,  eoldotn  u  toD»;  ai 
eadi  succotisive  generation  KikI  thus  to  renew  the  atrii&;gks1 
wWicU  lm<]  tested  the  coura^,  tbe  patriotism,  and  titej 
etitluruiiw  or  He  preciireor. 

Js  it  surprising  that  tlie  nnnifH  of  thefc  Conticnn  heroea 
sliould  be  boasekold  words?  tlint  Qiudice  della  Itocca, 
Uinmpolo,  Sampiero,  pAolt,  and  many  ottiere,  should  live 
in  the  nllectiona  of  the  Corsiciins  «ven  nulo  ihe  prevent 
iluj  ?  Is  it  eiir]>rie>iiig  that  the  Corsimii  women  should 
hnvo  iml>i)<cd  and  shown,  in  times  now  ^oc  by,  the  et«ra 
pa)ri<)ti.4in  of  I  ho  women  of  Sparla?  or  that  tlicir  "vo(*ro«," 
or  cbaiils  and  national  »ongti, should,  op  to  thin  diiy,  )>reatlte 
a  spirit  of  defianoe  and  a  love  of  venfteance  unknown  to  the 
inliiihitjuitii  of  more  pvuceful  r^ions  ? 

A  population  which  hiw  for  so  many  centuries — inJe 
nntil  quite  recently — lived  in  a  «t«1e  of  constant  warfar 
agnini<t  forvji^n  tyranny  and  oppression  cannot  uU  at  onoA* 
calm  down  to  tlic  socijd  condition  of  countries  that  have 
tor  wnturie*  eeaacd  to  fight  fur  thi-ir  existcnco.     Tinw  i« 
eiiplaint^d  the  exceptional  social  cundition  that  until  very 
recently  reigned  in  Corsica. 

The  Ocnoc«c  were,  durin>>  the  Middle  Ai^^  and  nitt 
the  Uitter  part  of  the  last  century,  tfa(>  most  persistent  andj 
crnol   per«eoutors  of  Corsica.     They  estublishcd  tlicmsolveBl 
in  Corsica  towai'dn  (he  end   of  the  tliirtevnth  i-eiitiirv,  and'' 
^m<hi;il[y  piined  possession  of  the  coaKt  towns  auo  of  a 
con^ideiahlo  portion  of  the  island.     War  may  be  said  never 
ti*  liiiv*-  ivjiiii-(l  from  tlmi  time  until  the  Cor^iainn  imrrendeiwd 
thcmsi-lvcM  lo  France  in  June,  1 7(19,  two  months  only  bi^fore 
the  birth  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte. 

In  17'17  the  Genocw,  finding  thcmsclvcn  bard  priwsed, 
applied  lo  France  for  Jimiiitanee.  Cardinal  I'leury  gladly 
availed  himnelf  of  the  pretext  to  eslablish  a  footing  in 
Corsica,  and  sent  five  regiments  to  their  assistamv.  Krom 
that  time  the  Corsican*  had  aUo  to  )i(;hl  a>[:iinst  France. 
They  defended  iht^mselves  Jesjierateiy  for  thirty  years,  bnt^ 
at  last  their  crreat  ^nei-al,  Pdoli,  was  d«f(^l«d,  and  the) 
had  to  saccumb. 

The  father  of  Napoleon   I.  was  a  prominent  memt>er  of 
the  patriotic  or  auli-Freneh  party,     tie  was  private  socro- 


FAOUt  TUB  FATaiOT. 


345 


itey  to  the  i»Ietirnt*(l  cliiof  VtuAi  at  thft  lime  t!i«  eapitiilation 
*iH»  KigHoJ,  ami  Coffiica  anoexeil  to  l-'faoce.  A  few  inonUw 
later  liis  wife  gave  birllito  tin*  -jroal  vvarrior  itnd  Klali-nmao 
who  was  to  wield  with  fucli  tiTritic  t'lmrgy  Ibe  liesfiiues  of 
th«  Freiicli,  whom  hU  oounlrymen  tbeu  looked  upon  m 
fvreitriiere  and  ooiiqiierors. 

The  grval  and  patriotic  Pnoli,  who  for  a  qiiarler  of  a 
oentiirjr  liiii)  govcrcMd  the  Contioana  with  the  wisdom  of  n 
Solon  aud  tlie  coura^  of  nil  E|iaininondas,  ahamloitiil  liil 
native  ooantry  when  it  beutme  n  mei%  proviticc  of  tVance, 
and  took  refage  in  Ijondon.  Tlierv  hu  livvd  for  thirty  vears, 
ill  llulborii,  a  ploriouH  exile  from  Uis  sex-^Tt  island  iiome, 
Wlicn  I  t^zed  on  the  m»}tnil<c«i'''  mountains,  the  hitautiful 
dear  nkj-  of  Conica,  and  the  ^loriouM  iwiirc  oea  that  sar- 
ronnda  it,  I  often  thought  of  1hi«  xud  exile  of  former  days. 
Mow  iiis  heart  must  have  yenrued  for  his  own  nt)tiv«  bind 
in  the  fog  and  [{loom  of  a  London  winli-r.  He  could  have 
returned  had  he  *ultmitt«d  to  the  rule  of  France,  hut  thi» 
his  patriotic  soul  would  not  t>toop  to.  lie  preferred  to 
livti  li-n^rth  of  years  an  exile  in  a  northern  land,  and  there 
to  die,  away  from  the  home  of  hi*  falhera ! 

Paoli  onee  relurned,  hut  only  for  a  lew  years.  When  the 
French  became  republicans  they  were  ashameil  nt  having 
extiiiguinhed  Corsicnn  freedom,  piihliclyapologixi'd,  recjlleu 
him  in  1790,  and  placed  him  at  the  bead  of  his  t^untrymei). 
The  latter  soon  tired,  however,  of  republican  tyranny, 
uppeaUil  to  England,  expelled  the  French,  and  positively 
annexed  ('ontica  to  England  (l7Vt).  P^oli  and  his  English 
Iriunds  soon  hecamc  obnoxious  in  their  turn.  The  Coiviciins 
rose  af^inet  them,  retaminv  to  French  al1i'<;ian(!e,  am)  the 
French  dominion  waa  again  definitely  vatablixhed  Ibrou^mut 
Corsica  in  1 700. 

The  (generation  of  Paoli  has  lonfT  passed  away.  Mighty 
events — events  thnt  liiive  «h,ik«-ii  Kuropi?  to  it*  very  founda- 
linnr,  and  totally  chan);ed  the  Ibrtuties  and  future  ■l<«tiny 
of  the  mttion  that  annexed  his  native  coiiotrr — have  taken 
place.  'Jtiive  ohancea  may  be  traced  in  a  grmt  measure  tothe 
genius  and  to  the  Cofsicnn  tenauity  of  purpose  of  tlui  son  of 
one  ofl'aoli's  companions  nifd  friends.  The  Coraienn  elui> 
raoter,  liowever,  rcntuins  the  tame.    The  love  of  freedom, 


d46 


OOBSICA. 


ilic  Rrm  r^ftolve  not  to  yielil  to  authority  ai^amst  the  dicfai 
of  ouii>«ii!ik!f,  BtJil  choriicUTiii' tlnreone  of  Ojmica.    Cnr-^if 
mtilef  within  Uie  Ui»t  ft-w  yi^ani  linw  reproduced  the  [teitriolaa 
telMenial  of  I'aoli. 

It  K  n  qn«8tion  whether  the  Coreioiw,  with  their  indomi- 
table pride  und  individuality,  would  havu  mbniiLlcd  to 
completely  to  Kr.ince,  had  it  not  been  for  the  niarveltnus 
rise  or  XapoieoD  Bonapiirt«,  their  count nman.  As  1  have 
stated,  Napoleon  wm  bom  a  f(>w  months  only  al^r  the 
aDDexatiuii,  und  by  the  njcu  of  tweiity-iiine  he  waa  general 
of  th«  flriDy  of  Italy,  al  thirty  he  was  6ret  ooaeair  and  at 
tliirly-four  omporor.  The  nntionul  fueling  ia  etiU  very 
strong  with  Um  Comicans,  and  I  have  often  heard  it  tmid, 
half  seriotwiy,  "  It  is  Corsica  in  reality  that  baa  annexed 
Prance,  not  fVanoe  Corsica."  Every  man,  woman,  and 
oliild  ill  the  inland  is  proud  of  the  fint  einjK.-ror,  und  ue- 
quuinted  »vith  every  detail  of  his  life.  The  advent  of  the 
lul«  t-ii)p(<ror  to  the  throne  of  France  was  hailed  with 
K  shout  of  ddlight  and  patriotic  pride  from  one  end  of 
Coraieu  to  the  other,  and  nowhere  has  his  dynasty  more 
devoted  adhereuta.  Vet  to  the  traveller,  the  counti^  ia 
more  Ilaltan  than  French.  Kscept  in  the  iar^e  towns, 
Ituiiun,  or  an  Itjilian  dialect,  is  the  principal  Unj^uau^',  and 
the  feature*  and  muunera  of  the  inhahilaiitd,  like  thv  regS^J 
tstion,  are  abo  decidedly  Italian.  ^| 

'file  Corsicano  compluin  rather  bitterly  thai  ihoy  oro 
neglected  by  France  and  that  the  very  great  natural  re- 
sources of  the  island  are  not  developed  as  they  mig-ht  be. 
This  reproach  to  nte  apiKuirs  scnrocly  just.  I'hv  lirst 
Napoleon,  it  ia  true,  did  but  little  for  hia  native  country,  a 
very  tincular  fact.  As  we  h^ve  seen,  slthou|{h  burn  and 
brought  up  ill  the  island,  which  he  constantly  rvviHitotl 
during  the  first  yeaw  of  hi*  military  career,  he  iieri-r  eame 
to  it  again  after  his  return  from  K)rypt.  ferliaps  he  was 
eo  totally  atiBorbod  by  the  Herculean  duties  that  tillt-d 
hia  career,  as  to  have  hut  littie  leisure  to  think  of  the 
ntatcrial  welfare  of  hia  native  country.  Perhaps  he  was 
disinclined  to  draw,  in  too  marked  a  manner,  the  attention 
of  1  lie  France'  hegovenied  tcrhis  Comiean  oritjin.  On  one 
.ocoaaiou   a  deerve  was   signed   lot  tome  important  public 


THE  VKSDETTA. 


347 


works  at  Ajacdo,  but  th^  were  Dot  carried  oat.  This  h« 
only  Icarot  yean  nricrwanltt.  W'hmi  »t  St.  Heluiiii,  hu 
thoujriils,  liowi>ver,  revertvti  coiittanlly  to  the  mountain 
island  Unit  gave  Kim  biitli.  Ho  often  spoke  of  it,  unJ  of 
ivlidt  b«  intended  to  luive  accompliKliod  far  iu  welfare 
and  protperity  h>d  he  remnincd  iu  power. 

Subsequent  govemmwitB  appear  to  have  done  for  Corsieit 
what  they  have  done  for  other  dcpnrtnicnltt  of  France, 
perhaps  «vgr  more.  The  Krenoli  centralized  system  of  la<v, 
education,  Jinil  road-making,  ha§  been  generally  intro- 
duced, and  every  facility  ^ven  to  the  inhnliitiiuttt  to 
mentullv  improve  thamsolvM,  and  thereby  u>  lay  down  the 
foundation  of  pablio  [WMpority.  The  ro-uls  thut  now  con- 
nect thfi  priDOipal  oowt  towns,  and  encircle  the  inland,  arc 
excellent,  as  good  as  our  high  roade  in  Enffbnd,  t-ven  in 
the  moMt  wild  and  uninhabited  rcftionn.  Therw  also  is  a 
very  good  road  intencoling  the  island  from  Bastia  to 
Ajaocio.  It  posses  over  the  two  moiintiiin  chiiinx,  and 
through  Coric,  the  ancient  patnotic  oapitAl  of  Corsioo, 
Variogs  forest  rooda  Iwvo  been  lately  made,  leading 
into  the  heart  of  the  countrv,  into  the  primeval  Ibreits 
which  occupy  the  high  eentral  regions. 

The  great  impediment  to  the  niat«t-i>l  progreu  of  Corsica, 
ui)  to  a  very  recent  period,  has  no  lioubt  been  the  very 
abii'trmiil  Hoeiul  condition  of  the  island.  Sojieculiar  and 
strange  was  thi*  condition,  xo  fnrcign  to  all  modern  notions, 
that  it  may  lie  questioned  whether  the  whole  world  could 
ofti-r  a  pnrnlhil.  The  rfn^eUa  which  characterizes  it  must 
Bap  at  the  root  of  all  public  enterprise  and  proupcrity. 

The  vendetta  is  a  nyHtem  of  veDgeaiwe  to  the  death 
which  has  existed  for  hundreds  of  yetire  to  Corst<»,  and 
which  was,  until  recently,  recognised  and  approved  by 
nearly  the  entire  community,  including  even  the  leal 
enlightened  ministers  of  religion.  Its  origin  is  obscura, 
but  may  ho  trace<l  to  the  feuds  and  warfiirc  lluit  exi«tcd  in 
the  island,  dividing  the  members  of  faniilic!!  and  of  oom- 
niiinitics,  ever  arming  one  agaiiwt  the  other,  to  the  weakiiCM 
of  uiithority,  and  to  the  diflicnlty  of  obtaining  ju«ttce. 

All  Ornicans  carried  fireanns.  If  one  man  eonsidered 
.himself  insulted  by  another  in  any  way,  however  trivial 


S49 


CORSICA. 


the  grounils,  be  shot  him,  l-'rom  that  moment  thr  fiimity 
of  the  miin  Icilli-il  wiis  hotiiid  in  honour  to  miraiic  ihc 
murderer,  or  in  hin  <lefatill,  nome  mLinber  of  bis  family, 
an<l  to  r«tjiliat«  blood  tor  blood.  This  ohligition  Ao- 
BoendeO  from  ont'  mcmlicr  o[  the  lamiljr  to  tinother, 
niitil  it  olUn  i-nilvd  in  the  nil  but  entire  dcstruotion  of 
both  Eumilieit.  Villager,  entire  OMnmuuitiee,  would  tiiko 
up  the  quarrel  of  their  meinbcTS  sgainst  othvr  villu^t*, 
other  communities,  and  thus,  in  the  abiionco  of  u  iiuhlio 
foe,  they  mawacml  each  other. 

1  waa  told  by  a  very  intelligent  Roman  ^tbolic  prievt, 
curiS  if  a  remote  oonulry  villaf^,  that  the  greater  [lart  of 
three  feudii  orifrinatn)  in  jraloutiy.  The  general  feeling 
was  thnt  any  iiieiilt  otfered  to  u  woman  ought  to  i>t 
vra»lied  in  the  blood  of  the  oflender,  by  her  male  rolativn, 
huHhaiid,  father,  brullier.  TliU  sentiment,  he  ttaid,  was  »o 
fitroii^  and  general,  that  were  the  Utrs  relaxed,  there 
would  be  just  at)  many  aRsnRaiiiations  us  in  former  timets 
■nd,  i-on»c<(ueDtly,  as  many  vtitlaws  in  the  monntainii. 
Indeed,  if  there  was  no  male  relative  to  avenge  them, 
Cursiean  women  often  revengetl  thenitu'lvee, 

TliiK  Utter  Biat«ment  was  fully  home  out  by  what 
heard  at  Corte  durin*;  one  of  my  visits  to  Contca.  In 
April,  Jt>fl5,  lher«  were  ihrev  women  in  piison  for  killing 
their  lovers.  One,  a  finw  youufi  woman  of  nventy,  of  it 
){ood  |)eajiunt  family,  shot  h>>r  lover  dead  in  the  market- 
place  of  Corle,  leu  diiyo  h-Tore  I  arrivod.  He  bad  de- 
wtCud  hiT  ufter  promuiiig  to  marry  her.  positively  re- 
fusing to  ratity  his  en^gement.  She  wan  in  prison,  but 
my  informant,  one  of  the  K-ading  inhahitanls  of  Corle, 
ftated  tliiit  her  imprisonment  waa  a  mere  form,  and  that 
she  would  tw  either  uoquitted  or  condemned  to  prison  fur  u 
few  wetks  unly.  The  cntirt-  community,  him&elf  indudwl, 
thought  hiT  a  very  noble  girl,  who  hiMl  served  her  hsae 
lover  i)uitc  right.  I  subsequently  heart)  that,  as  antici- 
pated,  she  had  only  been  condemned  to  throe  month*' 
confioement,  as  ^)lty  of  what  we  should  call  "  juiitiKable 
homicide." 

'I'his  girl,  in  Wndicitting  her  lionour,  only  followed  the 
traditions  of  her  country.     Some  yeara  ago  a  young  girt 


■  IIS. 


A,  YOCERO.  849 

of  Ota,  whose  rather  poetical  name  was  Fior  di  Spina,  or 
HaffthoTD- flower,  killed  ber  lover  for  the  same  cause- — hia 
refusal  to  marry  her.  One  of  her  compagnons  improvitied  a 
"  vocero "  or  oallad,  which  I  give  below,  both  as  illas- 
tiatiDg  the  feelings  of  the  Corsican  women  on  such  occa- 
sions, and  as  a  good  specimea  of  the  langnage  spoken  to 
this  day.  It  will  be  perceived  that  it  ia  thoroughly 
Italian.  This  vocero  is  published  by  M.  Jean  de  la  Bocca, 
in  an  interesting  work  entitled  "  La  Corse  et  son  Avenir." 
1857. 

Vocaao. 

"  Stamane,  ia  piazza  d'Ota, 
Tbaann  meseu  la  cooroiia 
Tissata  in  oro  ed  in  argento, 
B«coDdu  la  to  persouDO, 
Sapn  sta  colpu  di  pistola 
Cbe  in  Corsica  riaoua. 

"  Arrivata  da  n  an  baba, 
Bi  veati  da  grand'  ^neniera, 
Carca  di  ferru  et  di  piombu, 
CoUa  carcbera  e  ta  tareetta, 
Ln  stilettu  e  la  pistolo, 
Diceudo :  Oggi  e  a  me  sicretn. 

"  Qaeat'  avia  an  cnore  d'un  Uone, 
D'una  tigra  allatata. 
Ha  BtesQ  lu  braccia  colla  pistola, 
Ed  in  capu  la  sbarata, 
Dicendo ;  Aoinin  iofidele. 
La  t<i  morte  i  preparata. 

"  Deh  I  portatemi  a  Tallavo, 
Dots  io  i  banditi  pib  fieri, 
Giocomo  e  Sunta  Lucia, 
Queati  cuori  bravi  e  gnemeri, 
E  con  elli  in  compagiua, 
Ginro  boBchi  a  sentieri." 

LiTEBAL  TbaNSLATIOS. 

"  This  morning,  in  the  place  of  Ota, 
the;  placed  on  you  the  crown, 
woven  in  Rold  and  in  silver, 
according  to  (worthy  of)  your  pereon, 
afUr  this  piBtol-shot 
nhivb  in  Corsica  reaoands. 


3$d 


CORSICA. 


"  ArnTi-ii  nt  Iw-r  Fkth«r'a 
•li»  ilroi»nl  liLTwir  Its  a  ffraat  waiHoTt 
liiuiled  willi  iron  and  Imo, 
*  iiti  titu  curkiiiehu-box  tind  th«  ta»ctt«^ 
tlx-  iityl(<t  and  tli^  putol. 
auytog :  To-day  it  a  my  icavb 

"  She  lind  the  heui  of  a  lion, 
of  A  tiat^oii  ■nrkling. 
She  oitciiJii!  thi-  nrm  wHli  tlwi  piitol, 
And  uii  liin  linkil  (lisfhargud  it, 
HiyiiiK :  Soul  nnlkitlifDt, 
your  dcuth  ia  pnrpued. 

"Now!  taVe  m*  to  TftUnro, 
nben:  are  the  baoditti  the  proud**^ 
Gia«6mo  and  Saute  Lucin, 
tboM  hrarta  braro  u>A  warlike, 
■ntl  with  thdm  in  eoiDIHUiionship, 
1  will  rova  in  the  wouds  and  patha." 

AeeordiDff  to  «  French  prefect  quoted  ljy  Oregiorovi! 
vboae  Travels  in  Cornea  I  cnn  recotnincii<)  ns  ■  motl 
laFHniitinK  liook,  -klflO  oMasrinitiona  occurred  in  Conks 
between  the  years  IbSl  nod  18S2,  in  a  population  of  iwo 
hundred  und  Rlljr  tJioutuind.  In  thu  last  two  year*  of 
this  period  tlie  number  was  three  hundred  and  nineteen. 
The  peasant  scarcely  cultivated  his  field,  for  fear  of  1>eing 
shot  whilat  at  Uie  plough,  nud  Im  life  wae  often  passed  in 
tmrkiug  or  avoiding  a  foe.  The  women,  bred  up  in  a 
Mvage  Mi»e  of  honour,  urgvd  their  husbanOB  and  »on8  to 
tbate  deeds  of  bloodlbiraiy  revenge,  fang  wild  mnge  of 
triiiinph  (rvcfn»)  over  them  if  victorious,  and  equally  wild 
son^  of  lamenlntioD  if  they  were  killed. 

>Iany  Comicans  in  those  days  apent  year*  of  their  lifv 
barricaded  in  tbt^ir  hour's,  which  they  durst  not  leave 
for  feur  of  their  puniuent.  The  xtory  is  told  of  one  man 
who  remained  filleen  years  thus  harricA>1<.'d  in  hi*  dwellinjf 
without  leaving  it.  One  day  he  heard  liiat  bis  antagonist 
was  away,  and  venttirMl  to  go  out  and  crom  the  road, 
only  to  (all  dead  on  the  other  side,  sliot  through  the  hod; 
by  an  enemy  who   had  waited  Gfleen  years  for  him 


THE  VEKUETTA. 


S5I 


Mywir  made  the  ncqiuiintance  nt  Tsola  Roma  of  a  gentle- 
man, one  of  till!  leading  proprietnra  of  the  island,  who,  a 
lung  wliile  ago,  actually  lived  for  two  years  barricaded  la' 
the  u|ii>er  lint  of  a  house  tn  Uiat  town  lu  avoid  lli«  "  Vfto* 
dettA."  An  iron  door  nn  the  staircase,  through  which  he 
uoiild  Hli<iot  any  one  approaching,  prot«ctcd  and  separated 
litm  from  liis  relentless  foot. 

How  eould  a  country  prosper  untler  Huoh  drcumfttancm  ? 
The  l-Vench  Government  never  would  take  the  chivalrous 
view  of  the  Confican  vendetta,  but  dcchircd  front  the  flrat 
thut  a  man  ii!iot  under  the!<e  circuinslanceH  vras  ^impl/ 
assasatnated.  If  cau;>ht,  he  was  tried,  and  either  executed 
or  sent  to  the  f^lle)'«  fur  Itfo.  This  unplcafanl  mode  of 
viewing  the  national  point  of  honour  in  no  way  restrained 
the  Coraicaa  tnind.  Tbej  shot  their  enemies  as  bofore, 
and  then  retired  to  tlie  mountains,  vrherv  they  ouuM  wt 
the  law  at  ddiauce,  becoming  iianditti.  At  the  commenoe' 
went  of  the  present  oentttry  there  were  IUt>0  men  in  the 
mountains  (^  ta  m/riidiff/tf).  The  commandant  of  the  gen* 
dtrnierie  ut  AJacoio  told  mc  that  in  Ifihb  Ihcn  were  ctiU 
throe  hundred. 

Theee  men  were  not  brigands,  such  as  we  used  to  meet, 
and  still  moct>  in  Italy,  in  Calabria,  and  elsewhere.  They 
were  "  honourable  men,"  who  liad  vindicate<l  their  sense 
of  honour,  in  accordance  with  the  immemorial  ciiiitom  of 
their  race,  and  with  the  approbation  of  the  lar<;e  majority 
of  their  c-ountrymen.  Once  in  the  mountains,  uut  of 
reach  of  the  authorities,  in  the  primitive  forest^  of  the 
Monte  d'Oro,  the  Wonte  Rotomio,  tlte  Monte  itonoi§o,  or 
thi;  Monte  Inohudine,  they  merely  wishcHl  to  live.  Thvy 
killed  game,  their  friends  and  relations  sent  them  supplies, 
the  pcii«i)nt«  and  Khephcrds  g«ve  them  food,  am)  hvlped 
thorn  to  avoid  their  enemies,  the  soldiers  and  the  veil* 
darmes.  Thus  they  led  a  kind  of  wild,  Itobin  Hood  life/ 
seldom,  if  ever,  altouking  travetleni,  or  doing  harm  to  those 
who  tell  them  atone.  1  have  been  told  thatatnivuUer,  not 
an  enemy,  might  have  gone  among  most  of  them  with  his 
pock^^U  full  of  gold  without  fear.  They  would  only  have 
politely  taked  him  for  a  small  pecuniary  contribution,  if 


* 


352  CORSICA. 

tJiojr  vfkntcd  it.    Some  twr,  however,  vnte  Ims  konotinliU,*) 
]em  eaeiljr  MtisGed,  even  Id  thotte  days,  aud  could  iii^t  tiavv 
been  thus  trusted. 

It  «M  ill  vain  thnt  the  Prcitch  Gorcmment  kept  »  KgU 
mcnt  or  two  of  Mtldien  in  tJte  islund,  and  «  lurgv  body  of 
"  moreoUe  geodarmvi-it-,"  Hccustomed  to  the  roouittaine, 
and  tfl  mountain  wmfarv.  1'hi!  vendetia  w&s  too  dwply 
root«d  in  tlie  minds  of  the  Condcunii,  Tha  mountains 
were  too  inacoemible,  iind  the  population  too  favonnUo 
to  ihcfo  "Itonourablc  lMiiidil«,'  for  thvm  to  be  exter- 
miiuit«d  from  the  land.  In  tJte  ywar  18.'>-t,  tlMtrtCore,  very 
extreme  roeasurea  were  adopted ;  measun's  which  Miem  i 
very  ftraiig«  in  our  tim«w  lui  npplicd  to  a  department] 
of  Fninoc,  to  tJie  birtbplnce  <rf  the  late  imjwml  I'wnily. 

Two  lawrs  were  parsed  by  the  French  ('hamh«m.     Byl 
the  one,  tho  entire  populntion  wiw  disarmed,  anil  it  wat  r 
made  penal  to  oarry  firearmR,  or  arm*  or  any  doscrtption,  I 
for  noy  reason  whatever,  even   including  the  piintujt  of' 
game ;  «o  that  for  mam-  years  there  was  no  ni^tiUr  xporlint; 
IB  Corsica,     A  landtti  proprietor  could  not  take  oiiL  a  gtm 
and  nhool  n  bird  or  n  hare  on  bia  own  pro)>erty,  without  thti 
permission  of  the  prefect.  When  this  permixtion  vrm  luked, , 
nnd  {^nt«d,  it  was  ipven  for  oncv  two,  or  more  dayx,  for  a| 
special  diBtrict,  under  the  name  of  u  haUKe,  aaa  polioe- 
ageots  or  gendarmes  were  rmiuired  to  be  prment.     All  bheJ 
hi-fher  and  well-informed  memlxTs  of  the  community  cliaer- 
fully  ar(|uii-seiHl  in  the  law,  and  auncndvrvd  their  pleasure 
for  the  flood  of  the  community,     This  Uw  wna  partially 
repealed  in  IS09. 

By  tha  other  taw,  the  foi  dti  reeel,  or  law  of  concealment, 
all  persona  harbouring  or  amistin^  outlaws  berama  liubla  to 
impriaonment,  Tliis  Ian-  ha*  been  stretched  in  practioc  in 
&  very  singular  and  Draconian  but  very  cfTectwil  ivay.  If 
a  muu  kills  an  enemy,  and  flies  to  the  niountjiin,  the  uutho* 
rities  instantly  iwixa  aod  impriiton  hia  relatives,  and  keep 
them  in  jirinon  until  he  be  raught  or  have  surrendered.  A 
ver)'  reinurkable  application  ol"  it  ooouned  during  my  first 
visit  at  jVjaccio,  A  liandit  who  had  killed  twenty-scvea 
people  in  his  life,  principally  gendarmes,  and  had  been  out 
m  the  mountains  above  thirty  years,  bad  for  some  time 


THE  BANDITTI. 


353 


L 


been  lost  sight  of,  And  was  GUppoe»l  to  have  gone  to  Sardinia. 
He  bad  rcwBtly  ruuf^Jired,  wid  hud  been  seen  in  the  vici- 
nity of  SurU-ne,  in  th«  ttouttiern  part  of  tJie  island.  A« 
many  as  sixty  of  his  relations  and  divvcudniiU  wcro  imtne- 
diutely  wviuA  and  impriifonwl,  uvi  were  <i«ly  rt-leased  when 
it  bccaini!  qtiiU)  evident  tiiat  the  old  oH'eader  bod  attain 
withdrawn  from  the  istaiid. 

Inhuman  rr  thi«  «tc{i  may  Mitem,  it  hu  been  attended 
with  the  mcMtt  beneilcial  rcaultd.  These  men  of  broni^, 
who  killed  an  enemy  as  they  would  a  noxious  inMcc-t,  whom 
uo  humun  or  divine  fettling  could  rt-Jttrain  from  vhedding 
blood,  are  fund  futben,  itonii,  and  brotber:^^  They  cannot 
bear  to  see  their  children,  their  fiithers  and  mother*, 
brothers  nnd  cisters,  permanently  in  prison,  on  their  account. 
They  eitlier  do  not  aa«a«iiiruito  any  longer,  or  thoy  give 
themselves  up  to  the  authorities,  and  meet  their  punish- 
mcnt.  There  are  now  not  more  than  two  or  tbri'e  outlaws 
"  i  la  montrifite."  Were  «uoh  a  law  |>aased  and  riyidly 
carried  out  in  Italy,  the  country  would  soon  be  etuarcd  of 
tilt-  bitnditti  by  which  it  in  infiwted. 

The  rigid  application  of  the  toi  i/u  recel  cuta  at  the  root 
of  one  of  the  chief  causes  that  tended  to  keep  up  bauditism. 
So  far  from  a  ]>va«unt  family  being  disgraced  by  one  of 
their  mernlwr^  being  "out  in  the  mountain,"  it  wan,  in 
some  sense,  an  advanta^  to  them.  From  that  moment 
the  family  had  allies  who  protected  and  assisted  tliem  in 
their  feud*  and  c|narrela.  nicy  l'uriii»he<l  provijfioiij',  powder, 
information,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  Uiev  received  ui»i»- 
tanoo  and  protection  from  their  bandit  relative  and  his  com- 
panions. The  impritionmunt  of  biw  relations  deprived  the 
bandit  of  the  all  but  indispensable  aiwitttaneu  be  wa*  re- 
eviving,  and  transformed  the  members  of  his  own  family 
into  very  lukewarm  Kympathixera,  if  not  atwolutA  aiita* 
gonitta,  i 

A  aingiilar  feature  in  tlie  history  of  thcM  outlaws  is  their 
attachment  to  their  native  land.  They  could  easily  gi;l  ta 
Sardinia,  wliich  is  only  se)mrated  by  a  strait  a  lew  milva 
ttcron:,  or  they  could  take  refujite  in  Italy.  Hut  the  love 
of  their  native  country  is  too  strong.  Ihey  prefer  to  lie 
out  for  years  iu  the  forests  and  loouutainsj  to  be  tracked 

A  a 


354 


CORSICA. 


-daily  like  wild  lieasia,  without  hope  of  pnrcIoD  orof  ereDfod 
eanpi?,  to  lakinK  rcfuce  in  another  cunntry. 

A  com  mu  ml  lint,  of  "  trcndiirmexic,"  whose  a<^naint3nce 
I  mudc  nt  Ajuceio  in  18412 — n  l>rav«,  opcn-liciirtcd  militarv 
man — had  heen  ten  years  in  the  island,  and  they  hud  hfea 
years  of  incwmnt  warfare  Uj^inst  the  banditti.  I  heard 
many  intcrcMtinf;  dvtailit  (Vom  him  of  the  inonntiiin  warfare 
lie  hnd  iinceasioply  wsc:cd — for  audi  it  is.  He  hul  n^ventl 
hundred  tnen  under  nim — nil  yoiiDFTi  of  great  physical 
pyivor*,  and  inured  to  linrdMliipt:  of  evwry  description.  His 
nttiickfi  were  prineipully  made  tiy  ni^hl  tnarche*  of  twenty, 
thirty,  or  evun  forty  miles,  which  cnahled  him  to  8uq)ri>e 
liin  wary  enemy. 

]  vxpresttiil   my  astnnislim«nt  that  he  wu8  Ktill  alive, 
that  he  bad  not  been  n»siu«inated,  Coraican  fashion,  after 
BO  oden  Icadini;  Ins  men  in  such  desperate  work — for  ha 
Kiiid  lie  had  M-nt  sotuxii  lo  the  C"lh'yiB  and  to  Uie  ifuiltotincj 
He  iv])lied  that  the  explanation  was  in  the  fact  that  he) 
had  always  treated  the  handitti  as  fair  antagonists.     He 
had  wa^d  honourable  war  a^in«t  ihcm,  and  fmi^ht  them 
ojvniy,  a«  lu"  would   have  <i'ine  a   inilitnr}-  enemy.      HttJ 
bad  i!Ur])ri]«ed  (hem, and  exterminated  thero  when  he  could,] 
hut  never  with  the  aaeistance  of  trcncrhery,  which  he  de- 
spised and  repudiated-     So  thoroughly  convinr-rd,  he  nddedt<j 
were  the  luindit^i  of  hii  honour,  that  were  he  Ibat  eveningf 
to    write    and     make    an    appointment     with    the     moat' 
noturioiis  of  the  few  n-mnininu,  they  would  not  for  ono 
inomcnl  hcMtiitc  to  U-Jive  their  retreat,  and  to  come  and 
inei't  him  in  Ajacoio  ilaelf. 

Out-  ineident  of  the  a^lvcnturous  life  of  the  worthy  eom- 
tuandant  deserve*  narration.     He  had  heoii  long  pursuing 
n  very  dcKperate  Imndit,  who  had  killed  scveml  persoos, 
and  had   been   in   (he  mntintain  for  many  ycar»,  vhidin'^' 
all  rcMttrch.     At  Ian)  he  heard  that  he  wiw  Kleepin^r  every] 
nifrht  in  a  cavern,  filuated  in  a  very  wild  and  Bochidedl 
distiiet,  high  tip  in  the  mountains.     By  a  night  mi>reh  lioj 
tmrruunded  the  cavern  with  a  hundred  and  filty  men,  and,  i 
certain  of  the  oiitlaw'M  preMi-nee,  summoned  him  to  sur-^ 
rendt-r.     Tan  only    reply   was  a   couple   of  shot^,  whieli 
killed  oni!  of  hie  men.     He  then  determined  to  i<moke  hitai 


THE  BANDITTI. 


355 


i 


L 


cut,  and  eomin«nceiI  pilinij  a  heap  of  bnifhwooi!  licfoie 
the  ciivcni;  but  befoie  this  coiilil  li«  hiilf  iii;i'iim|>liihe<i, 
two  more  ol'  his  men  liiv  iIimJ  on  Ihi;  i-rimnJjBhot  tliroiifjii 
tho  body  by  hi*  iinliiponiMt,  Anxioua  not  to  Bacrilipu  jiny 
mori;  lim,  the  cooiinsndant  deter mincil  to  frtarve  out  thu 
bandit,  bi-int;  aware  tliM  hi*  Ktoctc  at  |iroviiiioD9  and  n( 
wiitcr  wan  limited.  He  therefore  drew  round  the  cavern, 
whi<-h  hull  only  on«  iseae,  a  douhlo  cordon  of  men  in  tb,; 
bruebtvood,  and  waited. 

For  two  dnyx  anil  two  niehtH  wilh  this  tiij;er>wiitcti  con- 
tinued. On  the  third  nisrlit,  townrda  tnorninir,  h'in[ter 
and  desperation  {iroVAili^d,  and  the  biiiuUt  tn^uKt  n  Kiii|i|<-ii 
ruslt  out  of  the  cavfrn.  Twenty  ttunsi  wer«  tintanliy 
levelled  »t  bim  and  tir«d,  and  he  full  u«aJ ;  but  not  before 
he  had  hiul  tiro«  to  sinj'lo  out  and  deal  n  death-eliot  to 
one  more  of  his  cnomiw,  Thu*  the  destruction  of  thin 
man  cost  four  vabmble  4ives.  This  draoiatia  inuidout 
occurred  only  a  few  years  Bffo, 

It  was  euy  to  leo  that  the  worthy  oommandunt  oritci'cd 
thoroughly  into  the  viiirit  of  his  arduous  om-er;  rmlued 
that  he  enjoyed  it.  His  eyes  ejuirklod  whilst  he  told  me  of 
the  Urns  nigltt  murcbc»,  of  tht:  umbuncftdcs,  of  the  f  urpiiseSj 
and  of  the  mao(eu?ring,  which  fonn  the  main  featuri^  of 
this  moimtain  warfare.  No  doubt  the  exeiti'inenl  and  tin- 
ocrtuinly  of  this  kind  of  eitmpai)^niu(;  has  ■;rc;it  cliarma 
for  men  fond  of  udveiiture. 

The  ditlioulty  of  seizinj;  an  outlaw  who  isi  Rn])|)i>rtc<1  by 
tint  n-nrm  sympathy  of  the  entire  population,  and  i* 
^Minted  by  tliem  in  every  way,  boa  been  well  illustrated 
recently  in  Ireland.  In  a  <]uict,  civilised  wuntry,  where 
there  are  no  primeval  forests,  no  mountains  covered  tvitli 
eternal  kuow,  an  elderly  atwaMiu  oludvd  the  put-suit  of  tiie 
entire  jiolice  force  for  two  years,  and  at  last  died  of  discasu. 
Ki«  whervjtbouls  was  constantly  discovered,  but  owing  to 
the  cuiiuivanceand  imisbiaoo  of  the  peasantry  he  aa  eon- 
stautty  eluded  his  pursuers. 

Tlie  uljori!  faete  appear  to  me  snfBciently  to  account  for 
tbe  Welcward  stat«  of  Cumtca  us  rt'<;iirds  its  miiterial  de- 
velopment. It  is  the  hUtuiy  of  the  Ht{;hliinds  of  Scot- 
land 200  years  ago— a  people  coiiMtaiitly  fighting  oithe? 


35C 


CORSICA. 


iiKaidst  Btrangera  or  ainonj^t  thcmselvw,  and  Wniin^  to 
look  upon  actual  labour  ok  ilerd^ulnry.  SucH  ii  social  otate 
w  all  llio  moro  caMy  aceouuted  lor  whi-ii  Uit;  miit^'riiil 
wiiiitit  of  life  arc  few,  the  |>o|Hil.ition  sparse,  the  i-limat« 
mill),  and  tlie  wil  »o  iiiituriilly  fertile  us  to  produce,  nil  but 
will)' tit  trouble,  the  aotual  neceeniries  of  lile. 

Al  Inct,  bowcTcr,  the  very  vigorous  m«isurea  adopted 
by  Guvoinmoiit  ore  ljrgiDnin<;  to  tell  thorou<>hly  on  the 
social  condition  of  the  entire  community,  and  Micurity 
reisn«  where  diOidence  and  alarm  f"rmerly  existed.  There 
ciiii  Ik-  ro  dnuUt,  therefore,  tluit  the  natural  resoiirc^a  of 
('omii-u  will  -Kfieedily  bo  developed.  The  fort-Htii  of  Corsica 
contain  timltcr  db  valuable  as  that  which  if  imported  into 
KiiroiH'  from  countries  thuii«nndB  of  mili-s  awsy,  its  wines 
ate  \ivi'i\,  ftbniiddnt,  and  cheap  ;  itx  niinrral  woidth  in  »aid 
to  he  (treat — lead,  copper,  and  iron  being  found,  I  wa« 
told,  in  abundiince,  and  vrith  little  labour.  The  inland  ia 
now  qnitc  cniirdt'd  and  pt-nctrated  by  good  oarriofjc  rnnd«, 
and  rcijuinr  and  fn-iiiicnt  st«in  0<>mmunicJttion  exists 
between  itsi  ]>tice!piil  ports — ItaNtia,  Calvi,  Ajaccio,  and 
the  French  and  llnlinn  inntnlnud.  Capital  and  enter* 
prise  are  alone  wunteil,  and  thuy  are  lurc  to  make  tbeir 
Hppcaranoc. 

WVre  Corsica  an  English  pomosioit,  a  dozen  eompanie*'' 
would    bo  at  work  in  a  few  month):,  but  commercial  enter- 
prise is  slower  i»   Kraiieo.     The  Fr«ueh  «tilt  lo<ik   upon 
Cursii;!!   us   a  semi-harbarotiB  country;    the  officials    who 
hold  appointments  there  consider  IhomselTes  banivhiti),  und  < 
ever  aspire  after  the  liinv  whi'n  thuy  an  return  to  i''raiice, 
to  Paris.     Scarcely  any  travellerB,  either  Fren<ih  or  olhera, 
ever  viHited  the  island,  except  on  busintav,  until  my  notice 
of  it  in  the  second  edition  of  this  work,  in  lSft2,drewntlen- 
tion  to  its  ffceat  natural  bcautica.     So  rnucb  was  this  the 
ea<4',  ihiit  the  advent  oi  myself  and  companions  was  a  matter  1 
of  *un'riie   and   cnriosity.      What    ooold   {Mssibly   have 
led   us   there,  was  the  ipiestion.     Indeed,  to  explain  my 
presi-nce,  I  was  invested   by  the  public  witJi  "  a  missioa 
to  examine  the  climate  and  prodiKtions  of  Corsica." 

This  isolation   i*,   however,  eeasing,  and  1  am  fireatljr . 
(^ratified  to  think  that  I  have  been  tlie  means  of  sending] 


VERY  ACCESSIBLE  TO  TOURISTS. 


357 


hundreds  of  my  ctwintrvmen  to  thiB  very  beautiful  ulAnil. 
In  fact,  in  no  pari  of  Europu  cnn  a  few  wuekii  be  spent 
tnoru  pl(suuintly  ia  Kpi-in^  ur  autumn  l>y  ibe  htaltby  tourist 
Uiun  in  Coreiot.  In  early  autumn  mnlariu  ia  Ftill  too 
prevalent  for  pleasant  and  sure  Iravoliin^;  but  by  tbi<  end 
of  October  it  bucomuM  quite  aofc.  It  may,  with  tho 
grentenl  ease,  be  visited  on  the  way  to  Itnly,  or  on  tho 
return  from  the  nortb  of  lUiy.  Tlicro  is  a  i^tcjmvr  every 
n'L-vk  lietwceu  Niue  iind  BjiKtiu,  ermMn-;  in  twelve  hours. 
Two  or  throe  «t«nineni  rim  wockly  butwwn  B^tia  and 
Lej^hoTii,  in  sixor  ei;;ht  hours,  a  short  and  g«n«!ru)ly  a  oalm 
passa^.  A  steamer  runs  weekly  from  MaiseilW,  to  c-iich 
of  the  lurger  pirtt) — Bat>tiu,  C;dvi,  and  Ajuucio,  returning 
Corty-eight  liour*  ulUr  arrival. 

The  ntearoer,  which  leaves  Nice  every  Wednesday  evening 
for  UaHtia,  rctvimin);  on  the  Saturday  evoninf;  ful)(iwiRp,i 
rvuderii  lliu  journey  to  Cur>ica  a  very  eu«y  onw  to  all  wh^.^ 
wint«r  on  the  Kiviera.     To  the  Italian  tourist  who  wiabeaj 
Xa  deviate  from  the  beaten  route  it  offers  an  opportunity 
of  soein;;  the  glorious  scenery  of  Corsica  without  lost)  of 
time. 

Every  Wednesday  afternoon  a  large  and  oommodious 
tti-umer  for  Tunis  leaves  Mar»ille«,  rcaohint;  Ajaccio  io 
twenty  huur«.  From  Ajuecio  to  Uastia  there  i»  n  <lili)^>nL-o 
daily,  and  a  very  i^iod  road,  which  passes  over  tJio  mouii' 
tain  chains,  and  through  most  bcautiTul  Alpine  and  forest 
scenery.  At  Bastia  the  steamer  lor  t^e^horu  UiUes  ihe  tnivel- 
K-r  on  to  Genoa.  Another  dili^nce  aUo  leaves  Ajacoio  every 
morning  for  llouif'ucio.  Whrti  the  Sitnlinian  railroad,  now 
under  L-onslruction,  is  completed,  and  th«rc  is  re^^ular  sea  oom- 
muiuL-ation  betivcun  Bonifavio  and  the  Sunliniau  coast,  the 
tnivt'ller  lor  Rome  and  Naples  may  diminish  the  sea  journey 
by  moi-e  than  half,  besides  Mwing  some  of  the  ntoxl  iMr^auliful, 
soenory  in  Europe.  Cafrtiari,  in  the  south  of  Sardinia,  where^ 
the  milroad  terminates,  is  only  a  lev  hours  by  sea  from 
Civit*  Veodiia,  from  Naples,  and  from  Palermo,  in  Sicily. 

To  some  classes  of  invalids,  also,  Corsica  oU'ers   wiiilef  j 
rcsoutocs  unknown  before  the  j>ubliciition  of  my  Corsicun' 
resfiircliw!.     1  was  the  first  to  jioint  out,  in  ItiOJ,  that  the 
ciceptioually  sheltered  liluation  of  Ajnccio,  on  tlie  wvstera 


S58 


COKHICA. 


(>otist,  ruiiilcra  it  a  suitable  residence  for  invalids  rvqnirinj 
u  moifller  diii)at«  tliaa  tliat  of  the  Geuov«e  Riviera. 

jVjnocio  (population   H,OI)U]  is  unqueslion^tbly  one  of  tlia 
tnoiil  iitvfl)-  "pot*  in  Europe.    It  i«  one  of  the  most  emilin^ 
liitle    Krciioli  towus    I  have  seen   nnvwliero;   not   bL-inff 
i-iiinipeil  iu  by  walla,  it  has  spread  itnelf  out  on  the  north* 
westsidi'ofa  noble  and  picturesque  bay,  directed  due  south. 
At  a  diiiliince  of  about  tnvnty  milvs  from  tlio  chorea  of  tliis 
bay  w  Renn  a  hemieirclc  of  the  nuiji.'Ktic  granite  moantainjii 
from  aix  to  nine  tbouMiud  fi'et  high,  Aiime  of  whici),  as  we 
have  wen,  are  rapjjcd  with  snow  even  in  summer.   The  bay 
itftelf  i^  ai-  blue  and  iis  beautiful  ss  that  of  Naples,  allbougb 
on  a  sniuller  Nuule ;  and  the  tuvrn  in  protvclcd  from  the  north- 
wcBt  by  n  spur  desoemlinK  to  the  sea  from  the  tiriucipal  ranee. 
The  vegetation  of  Ajaccio  aud  the  nei;;hbourhood  indi- 
eal(«ncliniHtu  at  least  as  warm  as  that  of  CnnneK  and  Nice, 
perhnpbi  I'VL-n  a  ahade  warmer;  Ibo  Ulive,  the  <)raiiu;e,  the 
piiekly  Pear,  thrive  with  great  luxuriance,   lu  the  principal 
Ktix-et  there  is  a  double  row  of  goodVtzed  Oranjie-tn-n 
iilunted  out  in  the  soil,  the  effect  of  which  is  charming. 
Tiiey  wore  hcultby  and  full  of  Hower  on  my  firet  visit  at 
the  laitcr  end  of  April,  ami  embalmed  the  air.     I   fear, 
however,  that  they  are  in  a  lair  way  to  be  destroyed  by  an 
asphalt    pavement,  which  has  been  foolishly  plaeed    over 
tlieir  toobi,  for  they  were  not  llouri»>liing  when  1   la»t  t>aw 
tliem.     The  Lemon  tree  growR  «1ko,  and  be«ra  fruit  out  oi 
<Un>r!i,  but  only,  as  at  Nice,  iu   very  sheltered  and  very 
pniteLteJ  spots.     It  is  evident  that  there  are  no  prevailing 
winds,  sudi  us  are  felt  on  other  pait«  of  tlio  coast,  for  the 
truL-«  on  the  xhonw  of  the  buy,  cast,  wct>t,  and  north,  and  in 
the  neigh  bourhiiod  of  the  town,  grow  perfectly  atrtight. 
In  other  coast  regions,  at  Isola  Ro^,  for  iustAnce,  the  trees 
near  the  shore  are  turned  north-eaet,  indicating  Uie  pr^ 
valence  of  south- westerly  winds.      I    have   been  told  by 
nautical  men  tlial  one  ol  the-features  of  the  bay  of  Ajaooio 
iM  the  absence  of  the  strong  winds  that  reifin  in  the  Mcdi* 
ti-rranean  durin^j  the  winter,  but  the  testimony  of  thosa 
who  have  spent  the  winter  thi-re  proves  that  violent  and 
]uu(r   coiitinned   winds  ol'teu   blow  from   tlie   soutli-weat^' 
especijiily  iu  March. 


I 


AJACCIO  AS  A  WIXTBE  CLIMATE. 


35» 


There  is  at  Ajacclo  a  daily  land  and  Ben-brcu/*,  wliioh 
appears  wilh  ibo  rc^ulunty  or  the  tides  in  tiii)  Atlantic, 
and  muvh  iuviliUtvii  tlic  iiuvignti'jn  i>(  llie  bay.  All  tlw 
couDtry  boalttifulitccaSiaiitl  ^iido las  from  the  nci(;litiounii^ 
districU  go  out  to  sea  at  ni;;hL  nith  tlic  ni(;hl  bruiMic  nliidi 
dcac4-iids  fruai  iHe  mouutAiiu;,  and  txnac  in  in  Uie  morning 
with  llko  iM^a-bttMaie. 

Tlie  princi|iul  medical  practitioner  of  Ajaccio,  Dr.  YorAiiil 
— a  n cll-infonned  old  |>'^ntlcmun  of  scvrnty-five,  now 
dead — and  bin  tun,  who  haw  Huct-eodud  ti>  lii«  iirsctice, 
assured  roe  tbal  the  climate  was  a  boaltky  one.  Tb«  only 
I'lndomic  disease  Itiey  suHered  from  whs  malarious  fuvvr  in 
thi!  Ijitler  piirt  of  tlio  Nimmcr  and  I'tirly  untuniD,  and  lliat 
not  in  a  Mvvre  form.  lU  att«ck»  occurred  priiiaipally 
when  tlie  wiod  blew  from  Ui«  mouth  of  two  livers  that 
empty  tfacmsdves  into  the  liay  on  its  eustein  ^liorc.  Thvy 
told  nie  that  acvero  coUl  urns  unkitown  in  Ihc  winter,  and 
that  the  weatlier  wan  generally  fine  and  »unny.  Tlteii' 
Htnlcment  was  conlirmc^d  by  (Jeneral  Sebaatiuni,  brother  of 
the  inuKhul,  onv  of  the  few  surviving  companions  of  Na- 
noleou,  and  a  Corvicau  like  him.  The  {^cncnd  hud  a  rcai. 
denoe  at  AJaccio,  and  ha<I  ajient  the  winter  there  for  many 
ycunt.  He  slated  that  he  had  tried  nearly  every  famed 
winter  clitmiUi  in  £uropo,  but  had  found  none  superior  ti) 
that  of  Ajacoio,  and  luid  conwiuenlly  ailopted  it  at  i 
winter  residence.  I  found  him  fnll  of  life  and  vigwir,  oot- 
wiUxtundint;  his  advanced  a<re,  and  a  very  agreeable  cnro- 
panion.  tie  showed  me  over  a  Inrf^  well  laid-out  KBrdi.*n, 
which  dirnb*  the  hillKidu  behind  his  residence,  in  the 
middle  of  the  principal  ttreet.  The  i^neral  haa  bad  Uie 
good  Munse  to  plaot  it  principally  with  the  shrubs  and 
plants  of  tlw  country,  which  makts  it  exceedingly  interr^t- 
ing.  ^Vith  tlie  oarv  given  to  them  they  aruall  thriving 
luxuriunlly,  and  a  atratigor  in  Utcreby  enabled  lo  compare 
eultirut«d  with  wild  oikturc. 

'i'hroufrli  the  kindness  of  my  friend  Dr.  Piccioni  1  wm 
intruduoed  to  several  familitw  ut  AjiUM»n,  anil  their  warm 
und  "ordial  reception  of  me  and  of  my  coinpauionx,  rendered 
itur  stay  there  additionally  agreeable.  I  found  everyone 
aware  of  the   mild   character   of  the   winter  cliiuato  of 


360 


CORSICA. 


^^^^^naV' 


Corncn,   and  anxious  that   tt  should   become   known   td 
Binugtrt. 

Tbvw  U  0  ttentitirul  drive  oii  eadi  side  or  the  imy,  cx< 
teudin^;  for  somo  tnilo*,  which  iti  being  improvvd  und  ex- 
tended.  Several  Be|)arate  villas  have  been  built  and 
furnifilR-d  iihovv  tJie  coDimeDcemeDt  of  this  roiid  for  th« 
iicctiininodiitiou  of  stmngers,  T!ic»c  villu«  arc  large,  well 
distriliutetl,  and  coinfurtuble ;  tliey  are  furnished  aa  well 
as  tliey  would  be  in  Parifl  or  in  Nice,  and  are  ((uite  adnptvd 
to  tile  n!c|Hirt'ment8  of  a  good-eixed  fnmily.  'i'\w  roDts  ars 
■l-OiiO  or  5000  friincw,  160/.  or  iOOi.  for  llio  winter  sesBon, 
according  to  the  size.  'Hiere  is  one,  a  perfect  little  palaca, 
built  by  a  lato  "  rooeiver-(^ncral"  for  his  own  use,  which 
wuK  lu  k't  when  I  wdh  tliurv. 

With  the  exeeption  of  the  recently  erected  viltaa 
striiiigi-re  will  fiDd  as  yet  but  little  accommodntion  iit  the 
town.  There  arc  several  holds,  neither  vei'y  elcan  nor 
very  good,  but  whore  IravcUeni  may  manage  to  get  on  for 
a  »liort  time.  Better  liotfl*,  however,  arc  promised,  llie 
lIAtel  de  France  is  the  pleuNuiteat,  from  its  looking  out  on 
a  line  Btjuare,  or  place,  near  the  sea. 

llvtwFeii  my  lin^t  and  hiFit  vii^itti  to  Ajaccio,  n  period  of' 
aix  yeiiM,  I  luuiid  that  t-viileiit  impiovemcnt  hiid  taken 
place  in  many  iwpeets,  and  1  do  not  question  but  that 
eventually  the  wunta  and  re<in> rente nts  of  northern  in- 
valids wdl  he  Ko  provided  lor  tm  to  render  Ajaceio  a  safe 
and  pluattant  winter  residence  for  Ihuae  who  require  a 
nxtister  atmosphere  than  that  of  the  north  shore  ofth« 
M edi terra m-»n.     All  islands  must  be,  and  art!,  miiixter  than 

le  miiiiiland,  and  Corvint  in  no  exception  to  the  rule,  for 
_  eiy  wind  that  hl'iw»  comes  over  the  aca.  It  in  thU 
feature,  however,  mild  moisture,  that  constitute*  tlie  pecu- 
luirily  of  the  Corsicun  climate,  the  peculiarity  which  renders 
it  suitable  to  some  forms  of  (Ui-uac.  In  Ajaceio,  1  believe, 
we  find,  to  u  oert^tin  extent,  the  mildness  and  moisture  of 
Al^ivr*  without  having  to  cron  the  aiittre  width  of  thft 
Mediterranean  to  reach  it. 

'Ilie  year  before  the  war.  ISflS-B,  there  were  a  connidfr 
ahle  number  of  Eii;^li»h  and  Uerm-ms  at  Ajan-io,  and 
accounts  I  received  were  vviv  variable,  and  dilRoull  to 


tiid^r-^H 
il   thft-H 


AJACOIO  AS  A   WIKTER  CUMATE, 


8C1 


oiliate.  It  stiikM  in«,  liowuvvr,  tlmt  thera  via  the  general 
fui'liiig  of  dissuturaclitfii  M-ith  the  ac«oni  modal  ion  and  sui>- 
plies,  whioti  !g  usual  in  a  younf;  colony,  nnd  whk'li  tjmo 
will  modify,  as  tlic  rc-BOuri-M  of  th«  place  Bie  iiH|>roved. 
It  waH  so  lit  Menlone  during  the  early  veare  of  luy  loei- 
(li-nce  there;  complointa  a1»ut  food  and  accommo'diition 
wero  loud  and  numerous.  I  nm  aleo  uf  <>j>iiiion  tli»t  some 
of  tliv  diiMAtijtfied  meinberH  of  tliu  cominuiiily  ought  Dcver 
to  have  goae  there  at  all.  They  went,  on  their  own  re- 
Bponeibility,  to  a  mild,  rather  moist  and  reliixinf;  dimate, 
when  they  slioold  h.ivc  gone  to  u  mild,  dry,  hraclBg 
c'liiuute,  Mioh  an  that  uf  the  Kivieni  or  of  the  east  coast  of 
bpaiu.  Several  mcdioa]  friends  have  passed  Ute  winter 
lio.  One,  a  fcv  winters  at;o,  was  ijuite  MitisHed, 
ikc  in  warm  priu»c  of  thi;  elimate.  Another  at 
first  tltuugbt  and  stated  (hat  he  had  found  tlio  pciirl  of 
pearls,  the  real  KIdorado,  hut  lie  lins  »inoo  then  repudiated 
Lis  prerionsly  puhlishivl  opinion*.  Dr.  I^vtra  Suiita,  one  of 
tJie  piivale  pliv«icbna  of  thu  lat«  I'Vi-iK-li  Jimperor,  was  Mtit 
to  Ajatxioio  January,  18(13,  suhseqiiciitlytoth^  piiIiliriitioD 
of  my  work,  to  inv<-sti<^te  Hciuutiliciilly  iti«  (-limiite,  and 
hu  written  an  account,  I'oiinded  on  u  four  months'  resi- 
dence, altogether  favourable. 

Dr.  Bierman,  an  intelligent  German  phyeiciun,  now 
practiaing  at  San  Kemo,  who  Imd  settled  at  Ajiiwiu  before 
the  war,  and  who  mini>ti!red  »ever!il  winteni  to  the  health 
of  his  oouutrymeu,  states  that  he  whs  (juite  satisDod  willi 
bin  wintiir  sxperiraoe,  that  Ihe  dimato  more  than  answered 
bia  exjXiCtatKMia,  and  that  h'u  roiintn-nien  did  very  well. 
Germans, a*  •  rule,  are  muchmoreeiixilyi'atiiilied  u^  re^^iuds 
the  comfofte  and  deicancies  of  life  than  the  Knjrlitih.  Thus, 
thi-y  probably  oontrivod  to  be  eomfortablo  and  Hajipy, 
although  the  Knglish  wliindiird  of  comfort,  and  the  expen* 
diture  it  entaiU,  hud  iu>i  W-u  reached.  When  the  new 
hotel  now  in  contemplation  has  been  erected,  which  I  nm 
told  will  soon  be  the  ca^e,  »tid  the  expehM-a  of  liviiitr  huvo 
increased  in  proportion  tu  the  udvantngeti  guiiKil,  as  they 
ulwaysdo,  our  coitntrymen  will  probably  be  more  contented. 

The  war  between  Francv  and  Qi-rmany  arretted  tli« 
advent  of  Gcrmau  invalidit,  who  wero  bofpnning  to  adopt 


8C2 


CORSICA. 


Ajacc!o  tu  a  winter  TiKKlonc'e  in  vcarly  increosiuf;  num 
and  tliey  hiiv«  not  r«tiinn;(l,  ImJcod  tliB  war  proved  ft 
q^rvnt  chuck  ti)  tliv  l>u(IUiii|r  pmsperity  of  Ajaocio — a  check, 
howtvcr,  from  whith  it  is  rapidly  recovering.  Many  im- 
pTavcmuiits  have  Wen  made  within  tbe  last  two  or  ibree 
years.  New  hi]»M;ti  havo  been  btiilt,  good  wat«r  bas  been 
liruii<;bt  to  ibe  town,  and  a  haudcioine  boulevard  has  boon 
mudnilonff  the  sea  shore.  Several  nicmbi:rB  of  the  Hngliali 
cominitiiity  hjive  boiiglit  Ijuid  in  the  vii-ttiity  of  th«  town, 
and,  on  the  wbole,  un  era  of  ptogrt^  and  proiipenty  appear* 
to  bnve  commcnoed. 

In  coneliuion,  I  would  advise  uo  invalid  who  peruses 
these  pages  to  fix  hi*  winU-r  abode  ut  Ajaocio  without 
placint;  tlie  above  fiivt*  before  some  truKtwurtby  phyxieian. 
I  would  ai«o  advise  no  one  to  winter  there  as  yet  until 
better  hot«Is  have  been  eMtiihlishcd,  and  better  fare  be 
uUninable,  who  in  really  very  ill,  who  re<iuireB  ^rcat 
comliirls  and  very  dioice  food,  or  who  hoM  never  tmvullcd 
on  thu  Continent,  and  ia  totally  tinaeouetomed  to  conli- 
ncbUil  habits  and  diet.  Those  who  do  go  must  etill  look 
upon  theiiuolvce  at  pioneers  of  pro);reB8,  helping  to  open 
out  and  clear  up  a  piirtijilly -known  country  for  ttie  Wnufit 
of  those  who  follow  as  wtll  a»  for  their  own,  j\JI  siieU 
pioneers  run  a  little  ri^k,  and  in  tbat  voiy  ri«k,  gencmlly 
■peaking,  lii:*  the  chief  diiirm. 

At  Ajuccio  there  i«  a  iiuctcue  of  very  good  society,  both 
Corsican  and  Freneh.  Tlieie  are  the  pn^fet,  the  judges 
■»d  magistrates,  the  officers  of  tbe  t^arrison,  the  Icwlintf 
en;;iueiery,  and  the  reitident  native  familicH.  All  appeared 
to  be  niort  amicably  and  cordially  di»ipot«d  to  strangers. 
To  crown  the  whole,  there  is  a  very  tolerable  Italian  opera 
company  throughout  the  winter  season,  and  the  sulRrcrip- 
tlon  for  one  of  tJic  best  boxes,  holding  eix,  i«  only  ahoub 
ten  jioiind*. 

A    great    and    mysterious    charm     about     this    litt 
southern  town  is  its  having  been  the  birthplace  of  Napi 
Icon.      It    was    here   that    he    spent    hia    childhood    and 
hiK  cutIv  youth,  until,  at  the  age  of  firt^en,  he   entcrei 
the  Military    School  of  itrieune.     As  I  have  Htati-d,   h 
returned  yearly  to  Ajaccio  to  pass  the  vacations  in  tlMJ 


napoleon's   bIBTHPLACX  AT  AJACCIO.      863 


Ixivom  of  his  ftimily,  ntid  wut  muctl  up  with  nil  theif 
JeudH  and  Corsicati  Ivelings  unlil  fairly  launched  ia  hU 
grofit  military  career.  Then  Icieuie  cneod  lor  tlii-  great 
mail.  III*  mind  wan  ever  full  «>!'  iiitibitiunK  und  ^ruiidimo 
plana,  bin  lime  and  thoughts  «ver  engroased  liy  lh«ir 
fulfilment.  His  quiet  little  native  towo  and  his  Coniean 
niilioiiiilily  parsed  into  th«  background,  only  t<>  bo  fully 
ri.'iii«nibfri-d  when  ehuincd  to  another  island — the  ocean 
roul;  of  St.  Helena.  Hi^  family  followed  his  wonderful 
fortunes — liis  brothers  to  l)ccoiti«  kings,  his  eiifteiv  to 
marry  princes. 

Our  lirst  vieit  the  day  after  we  arrived  at  Ajaccio  was 
tothohou»e  of  the  Napoleon  family,  in  whii^h  the  hero 
wa^born.  It  is  a  good-sizt-d,  comlnvtiiblc  huiisi.%  vitiiuled 
io  the  very  cputre  of  the  tuwn,  lo»kiti^  out  on  a  small 
court  or  gardeu,  and  so  fturrutmded  by  taller  houses  that 
there  is  no  view  of  the  sea  or  mountains  from  the  windowM. 
ItA  siie  aud  position  show  whut  we  know  to  be  the  caae^ 
that  Napoleon's  {lureuis  muni  have-  bclong<^  to  one  of 
the  letitling  families  of  Ajuceiu.  The  house  has  been 
renovated  by  the  liite  emperor,  the  old  family  furnituru 
has  been  aouuiht  out  and  brouglit  biiok,  and  everytl)in>^  has 
bv«n  replnecd  as  much  aa  )!u»ible  in  the.  same  position 
ai>  nhen  ihc  rooms  were  occupinil  by  the  Bonapartes  in 
former  duyx.  Tliiw  evcrj' article  of  furniture  and  deeora- 
tion  is  a  souvenir.  Tho  bed  in  which  Nupoleon  was  bora 
in  iwon  in  a  room  on  the  {p'ound<lluor,  as  also  the  room 
and  bed  he  occupied  durin^jf  vacation  vi^itti  to  Ins  homo 
when  grown  up.  Tbo  house  was  shown  to  ok  by  an  old 
femiilv  servant  of  the  liimiiy,  who  knvw  and  attended 
Madame  Letitia,  Napoleun'u  motlivr,  up  to  the  time  of  her 
death. 

Tliere  iaun  old  and  rather  handsome  church,  ealled  tli« 
ratbedral,  very  near  the  fiimily  niannton,  which  no  doubt 
is  exuetly  in  the  same  stale  um  when  he  was  daily  taken 
to  il  as  a  child  by  Jtlndame  Lclitiii.  1  wim  at  Ajacciti  on 
tlio  5th  of  May,  the  nnnivcnary  of  Napoleon's  death,  and 
attended  a  mass  given  to  his  memory,  at  whieli  all  tha 
Dotaliilitii-ii  of  the  place  were  present.  As  I  sut  listening 
to  the  solemn  tlniua  of  th«  organ,  I  could  not  help  luuoy* 


364 


CORSICA. 


ing  T  mw  tlie  future  emperor  iw  a  child,  knee1in<;  at  bis 
1110 til or'H  j-iiii;,  in  tlic  wry  |iliicc  wben;  he,  no  doubt,  hiul 
really  knrlt  hundn-iU  of  limes.  All  wait  diitnged,  ill 
were  jrijiie  ivho  then  lived,  but  the  old  uliurcb  nmained  *a 
in  rorin«r  days. 

Ajnlfio  id  full  of  llic  memory  of  NapoleoD.  Whilo 
eauntei'tn)>  through  it«  quiet,  sunny  stroets,  ivilli  tb«  beau- 
til'ii]  luiy  and  mountains  g«nen]ly  in  view,  I  cuuM  not  help 
tliiriking  thul  for  ream  his  ate\n  had  trodden  the  tuiina 
gronud,  ss  a  wild,  impulsive  child,  nnd  us  a  rMlleu, 
umbitioiis  youth,  The  contemplntion  of  the  (jrrand  natural 
Leauties  that  surrounded  him,  and  the  constant  hrooditi'; 
over  the  liiatory  ond  minfortuneH  ef  hi*  native  couiitrr,  no 
doubt  contributed  to  build  up  the  nigged,  indomitabUI 
chiiractirr  that  be  afterwards  showed. 

The    lat«   emperor,  and   wpecblty    his   cousin    Loui*  1 
Napoleon,  had   titrong    Conican  aympathiea.     The  latter 
has  an  pfitste  near  Calvi,  wfaieb   he  Iri^queutly  viiiita  for 
shouting.     Under  their  nuepicee,  the  town  of  Ajaecio   iai 
be^inniii)*  to  i>how  titat  it  rvolly  is  the  birthplace  of  the 
pn»e»t  imperial  dynasty.      A   very  chaste  and  beautiful] 
marble  ehapel  has  l>een  built  aa  the  maueoteum  of  several 
member;  of  the  imperial  family.     A  museum  nnd  picture 
gallery  has  idxe   lici-n  erected,  and   if  ii  (inc  monumciilul, 
DuildiDg.     In  it  I  naw,  ntrt-ftilly  arrunir«d,  a  larj^  gallery  of  j 
painting>^  left  to  Ajaot-'io  by  Cardinal  Ti'sch,  which  b:id  lon^  [ 
been  Mowed  away  in  lumber  rooms.     Some  Tew  are  good,J 
but  the  greater  number  are  very  veeond  late. 

Tlie  names  of  the  utrcetd   and   aquaies  are  essentially] 
Kapulconic,  being  mostly  derived  from  some  member  ofl 
the  impet-ial  fumily.     In  the  murkct-ploce,  behind  a  hand-  [ 
eome  stone  fountain,  iK  nii  allegorical  alatue,  said  to  be] 
meant  for  Napuk-on.     One  hide  oftliifl  market-ptnee,  which 
looks  on  iho  bay  or  gulf,  is  bounded  by  a  solid  granite 
quay,  that  vnsbl^  small  vessels  to  moor  clow  to  land.   This 
market-plaee  is  flanked  by  tall,  well-buiU  bouses  on  one 
fide,  and  by  the  town-haU  on  the  other — a  very  rroix-el^ 
able  stniclure.     On  each  bide   is  a  double  n>w  of  ba»d*j 
some  plane  tren.      The  view  of  the    blue   buy,  with 
bemicirelv   of  grand   mountains   io   the  distanoe,   '» 


AJACCIO   AS  A   WINTER  RESIDENCEl 


365 


dcBCribaMy  beautiful  from  ttiU  point.  Thin  inagTiifJcont 
bay  »  protected  from  all  winds  but  the  south-weet,  and  in 
itii  wonti'm  or  uppvr  rugion  there  w  a  molo  or  ji'Uy  tvbioh 
fcivea  the  requisite  pri>t«ction  even  a^ninut  this  wind. 
Mors  impnrtnnt  works  are  in  vontcmpLtioD,  and  Ajacoio 
in  t<)  W  ninile,  «rc  lon^,  ono  of  ttii;  rini.-iit  niul  muft,  Mhvltcred 
ports  in  Ihe  Mediterranean.  A  jetty  in  about  to  be  thrown 
out  from  n  rocky  point  projecting  into  the  \>ny,  that  will 
protect  th«  anchorage,  now  exjKiiwd  to  a  hciivy  mwcII  from 
the  soiith-weet. 

In  llie  Grande  Place,  facint;  the  sea,  has  been  placed  a 
line  equestrian  statue  of  tliu  tirtt  Einpemr  Napoleon,  8ur> 
rounded  by  those  of  the  "four  kiii|f»,"  his  brolhera.  Thu»o 
Ktutuve  nere  er«ct«(l  by  a  national  Eubecriplion,  and  were 
inuii^iirutL'd  by  Prince  Nupuk'on  a  few  day i  after  otic  of  my 
Tisits  to  Ajoooto  (1SC5).  1  muob  rej;rett«d  not  buing  ublo 
to  remain  for  the  vcnrmony. 

Ajaeoio  is  the  only  town  of  Comica  that  appeared  to  me 
thoroughly  elij^ble  aa  a  wint«r  reeiidcnec.  Perha^w  t  init>ht 
Cx<!Cpt  Buxtiu,  but  I  do  not  think  Uaetia  is  without  objec- 
tions. The  oliuut«  u)  «videnlly  i-xovptionally  warm,  for 
the  valleys  of  Capo  Coreo  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
town  contain  Orun^'  and  L<-mon  trees,  the  hill  sides  aru 
covered  with  lar^  Ulive  trees,  and  Lycs) Imodium  grows  in 
all  moist  sitnutioos.  But  Vastia  must  be  exposed,  from  ila 
Kitiiation,  both  to  :touth-ca«t  and  north-enst  winda.  liven 
the  80uth*west  wind  blowa  witlt  great  fury  at  timm  during 
the  winter,  pnssinir  over  the  mountain  ridge  that  neparut^s 
JJuKtia  from  the  tiulfof  San  Fiorenxo,  I5(l»  feet  high,  and 
falling  OQ  tli«  eastern  side  with  such  rtolvnco  a«  to  cut  olT 
the  beads  or  cereals,  to  carry  off  the  roofa  of  houses,  and  to 
confine  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  to  their  hounw.  Then 
tliere  is  a  small,  liddewi  port,  which  is  ao  elom-<l  in  that  thu 
water  becomes  nesrlv  putrid,  and  no  part  of  the  town  in  its 
vicinity  would  be  eh-'ible. 

There  is,  however,  a  row  of  new,  liandwmc  houiie*  on 
the  principal  "Place,"  facing  the  eea,  which  would  con- 
stitute a  very  eligible  residituce  if  aooommodation  in  them 
could  be  obtained,  which  I  doubt,  aa  they  are  all  oouupiixl  by 
tlu)  Icadinjj  Bustia  families.   The  view  of  the  aea  from  these 


S60 


CM>IUtlCA, 


hoiu(>9  18  very  bcantiful,  n-itli  the  throe  mountain  tsUndsi 
riqinija,  VAUa,  iiml   Moiitw  Cri»to  rinitiij  out  of  the  wntcnj 
at  n  (liKtnnef .     Othor  hoimcn,  however,  are  bdii?  built  in 
the  ttauie  Inoulit}-.     There  is  a  emnll  Ijiit  clesii  ana  tolerahly 
eomrortHble  hot«l — tho  Ildto-I  <]u  I'Riiropo — on  tlic  Onndo 
Place,  which  i*  witlioiit  (|iii-Rtion  the  best  in  ilustia. 

Bastia  if  the  roost  thriving;,  populous,  and  oommeroial 
town  in  Coreicii.  A  conriOvinble  amount  of  whippins  yearly 
eutera  and  leaves  ita  port,  and  tliere  ta  more  enterprise  and 
activity  slinirn  by  itfl  inhabitants  than  bv  those  of  any  other 

fart  of  the  island.  Ilii"  i*  explained  l>y  it*  proximity  to 
ta)y,  with  which  Corsica  has  always  been  intimately  oon> 
nccti-d,  and  also  by  the  fact  that  nastin  is  the  port  lor  an 
^teiiMve  ran^  of  fertile  country,  and  for  the  greater  pait 
of  the  eoBtem  division  of  the  island.  Ajaccio  has  scarcely 
any  eommerco,  and  is  only  the  natural  oiitl<ri  of  one  or  two 
of  tile  valley*  comiirised  liettveen  the  sipiirs  or  western 
buttresses  of  the  central  <^ranite  ran^.  Ua«tia  must,  therc- 
Con,  ever  be  the  prinoipal  commercial  port  of  Corsie^,  and 
Ajaccio,  although  the  (^uvernmenl  capital  anil  capable  of 
being  made  a  mofrniBocnt  harbour,  will  always  occupy, 
commercially,  agecond-rate  position. 

The  drive  along  the  road  at  the  foot  of  the  Capo  Corso 
mountain,  which  cxtonda  from  Bastia  nuite  round  the  cape, 
is  very  lovely.  On  one  side  the  blue  Al>:dit«rrancan,  on  the 
otlwr  the  moaiitain,  tlto  genlle  idopes  of  whicjt  arv  covered 
vrith  Olive  trees.  Kvery  few  miles  a  ravine  opens  out,  and 
in  till-  upper  part  of  this  ravine,  luxuriantly  forlilo,  is  alwara 
ten  a  villui^',  enlivening  the  stdn  of  tlie  mountain  with  ita 
lurch  and  its  white  houitea  grouped  in  piclnresque  diaord*T. 
ch  of  these  villi^cs  has  its  marina,  or  liltio  port,  on  the 
shore.  About  sis  milcii  from  Bastia,  on  this  road,  ia  one  of 
the  mmt  interesting  linie»>tone  stalai^ite  caverns  in  exia- 
t«oc^— that  of  Brondo.  It  may  \ms  nicommcndcd  to  visitors 
M  an  agreeable  exourvion. 

I'he  mountain  of  Cane  Corso  and  its  ravines  have  a  (^rcat 
local  Trputation  for  tlR-ir  vrinot.  My  friends  at  jSistia 
repviitedly  excited  my  envy  by  the  choioo  KpeciTDcns  of 
theav  Hubnovvn  wines  that  they  ollercd  me.  Of  !at«  yearn 
but  little  has  been  toode,  owing  to  the  ravages  of  the 


BASTIA — CAPE  ODBflO  BOJLDv 


367 


oTdinm,  whicli  the  Corsicana  nrere  Ion;;  unable  to  conqner. 
But  new  Vtiiw)  nrc  now  bcinjj  extennivoly  n!aiit«0  tvcry- 
wtierc  thrriugli'iut  Coreioa,  t^i  ivjilaoe  tho»e  (bat  bare  been 
destroyed  by  discnse,  do  that  in  n  few  years  large  qnantitlM 
of  good  wini!  will  be  again  Dtudu,  botli  in  the  Cape  Corso 
region  and  in  otbers. 

in  the  southern  regions  of  Corsica  th«  oidium  is  still 
unlcnown,  and  perhapx  the  b««t  wine  of  ConicA  in  Hill  pro- 
duced there  in  considerable  quantity,  the  Vin  de  'I'allano. 
This  winv  is  tnudc  in  the  vicinity  of  Sartenet  the  best  by 
M.  Qiacomoni,  nt  St*.  Ijueia  di  Tsllaiio,  and  ii«  rvally 
BooJ.  It  rewmhli's  a  full-bodied  Burs^Hndy,  although  it 
has  a  peculiar  rich  flavour  of  it>i  own,  has  a  (;rcat  reputation 
in  Conticn,  and  was  much  drunk  by  the  fintt  Napoleon  and 
by  hi^  family. 

On  th«  north-enstern  extremity  of  Cope  Corso  a  valley 
openn  out,  rather  wider  and  more  fi-rtilc  than  those  pre- 
viously passed.  Throuj^li  this  valley  a  road  baa  recently 
been  carried  over  the  mountains,  at  an  elevation  of  itUDU  feet, 
whioh,  doKccndini^  on  the  wextern  «idc  of  the  Cape,  fioon 
reachea  the  viliiige  of  I'ino,  the  native  place  of  my  friend 
M.  Piceioni.  Wc  stiirt4-d  from  Bastia  one  forenoon,  aud  by 
dinnui'-ttme  reaclx^d  his  unceslnl  domain,  an  old  tquarv 
fortilii-d  castle.  In  this  cattle  hia  progenitors  have  lived 
for  ubove  100  y4!nrs.  Tiie  next  day  wnii  devoted  to  wiinder- 
in[;  about  the  ]iictiirii»|ue  old  villui^  perched  a  tlinusand 
feet  above  the  sea,  which  lay  smiling  at  our  feet  in  one  of 
its  placid  mooda,  merely  friiiKina;  the  rocks,  the  pi-c.-ipitous 
covv»,  inlet*  and  Ijays  with  a  thin  marj^in  of  while  Uwm. 
Wherever  we  went  1  saw  evidence  of  an  enliK^hlened 
tmpiilw,  jfivcn  by  n  master  mind — evidence  that  the 
enthuKiaftic  and  patriotic  feelingH  of  my  friend  were  n 
reality,  that  an  olt-rrpeated  iiuotation  of  his  from 
Metastasio— 

"  Ad  ognt  eaoTt  bea  nalo  quanto  la  palria  h  (sra," 

was  with  him  n  true  hi-artfelt  Montimmt,  Roads  had  been 
made,  houwes  er^-eied,  the  mountain  side  covered  with  new 
plantations;  in  n  won),  there  was  pro;;re«s  on  every  side. 
One  of  the  visit*  I   madic  with  my  friend  una  ouc  Uial  1 


868  ooBSiCA. 

eWI  aM  ou*ily  for}^!.   It  wns  to  the  Romfln  Catholic  prr 
who,  Haiil  M.   Piccioni,  tviw  ii  tnii;  Chriittiuit,  a  gmtt  frieoi 
and  ally  ol  faia  id  alt  good  works,  and  in  all  att^mpt^ 
improve   th«   int«ll«ctuttl,  tnorfti,  and  eociul  eUitc  of  t 
eurrotinding  villagen. 

We  found  tbe  prieal  a  tall,  int«IHt{«nt,  frwh-lookino^ 
Rimtkmanly  mnn  of  aboat  forty,  wJUi  a  kindt  KOo<^'»Bturaa, 
Kimpti-  cxprvMion  of  coiintoiiitnoc,  Hv  wuh  in  the  gardvn 
of  A  little  sipiare  otoue  houite  that  had  been  recently  ercoted 
for  him  in  u  most  picturesque  sittiatioD.  I  never  anw  n  tnon 
more  pk-uM-d  with  a  now  residence.  He  allowed  iih  lii« 
vef^tiiltlcH  and  his  tlow«rB,  and  all  the  eimple,  naked  rooms 
of  his  prcabytvry,  which  h«  clearly  thought*  palace.  We 
bad  to  Mit  down  oppooitc  vooli  window  to  admire  the  view, 
tkeefTecta  ofrock,  mountain,  »ea,aud  clouds,  toall  ofwhict 
he  very  particulurly  drew  our  attention.  Then  wo  were 
invit«d  topartakv  ofsomi-  r<.'fn3>hmi;nt,  uiidhad  to  drink  wine 
hebadmadefronihisown  vintage  and  to  eat  bread  Riadefrom 
corn  crown  on  tbe  iDonntuin  aide.  Wo  talked  firstly  abonti 
the  soIiooIk,  and  tha  sick  poor,  rCKpecting  whom  my  friend 
inquired.  By  deffrcestlie conversation  glided  on  to  Seueoa't; 
Tower,  which  is  |uet  above  the  vilUge  of  I'ino,  and  from  that 
into  old  claimoal  timv«.  I  aoon  fonnd  th^t  hv  wii»  ii  Kound 
clii^aie,  had  read  and  re-read  all  tbe  Latin  poet«  and  hiicto- 
mns,  and  was  indeed  much  more  familiar  with  claesioal 
literature  tbsn  we  wvrc!.  He  had  been  cduontcd  in  a  i^emi- 
narv  in  the  island,  had  never  beea  out  »f  it,  and  would 
probably  live  and  die  it  poor  rillaj^e  prioHt,  in  an  out-of-tb«- 
vmy  Itainlet  at  the  extri.-niity  of  Cape  Conto,  far  from  the 
world  and  its  vanities.  But  be  waa  liappy,  quite  happy,  he 
Mid,  with  his  modcct  dutiui,  bi«  library,  bis  old  classical 
frienda,  hb  musinjia  on  human  nature,  the  Kamu  from  agt 
to  a^,  and  his  little  giurden  and  glebe.  I  was  sorry  to  leave 
biinat  last.*  M.  Pioeioni  told  me  that  there  were  very  many 
such  as  he  tbn>u|;hout  tbe  length  and  breadth  of  Corxiei 
ffood  and  Inic  men,  intellectual  as  well  as  pious,  living 
thuit  in  the  pTv«cnt  and  the  piut,  and  humbly  doing  their 
duty.  I  myself  have  met  othera  in  Corsica,  iu  very  wut-of- 
tlic-u-ay  places,  of  the  same  type,  truly  good  men — men  to 
be  re^iNXitvd— for  when  (aithl'ul  and  true,  do  not  such  men 


1 


BASTIA^EN"BCA  8  TOWER. 


369 


L 


Teallj'  Bacriflco  all  curtlily  niToctioM  und  ambitions  to  tlidr 
miniKlry  ? 

Tlic  solitnry  tower  to  wliicli  tradition  Rives  thu  iinmo  of 
Seneca's  'I'oH-er  is  tirnrly  at  llic  Kiinimit  of  Hit'  iiioitntnin 
kIkivo  Pino.  Tliix  Roman  |)hiloHi>]iliL'r,  miliHcqnotitly  tlie 
niii^U-r  of  the  inlbmous  Nero,  wns  exilei]  to  Corstcji  by 
CtiiM^iiiB,  «ih1  passed  ci<>)it  yenra  in  tho  i«1iind.  S«nccB, 
»ltlioii;;li  a  «1/>iu,  did  not  War  liU  |iiinii>))m(.<i)t  with  TurtU 
tiid'>.  H<!  bua  lell  records  of  his  §oj(Jiiru  in  Corsica  in  the 
Blia{)e  oranuthem.ts  !ij>-aitigt  the  "  ivild  uTid  biirhnroiis  Iiind" 
t<>  wliiL-h  )iii  was  cxik-d,  nnd  of  fuwiitni;  ifii|>(>hiriitioriH  to  hix 
imjiciial  miiNtvr  to  rratorL'  liim  to  fiivour.  Hi<  Mvmx  to 
hiive  had  little  power  of  appreeiating  the  siilen-lid  soenery 
and  the  heantifiil  climiite  in  which  he  pusped  thoM.>  yeani  of 
exile.  lliH  thou)fht«  were  ever  on  ttx-  lilitn<ii«hiiien(K  of 
impi'riitl  Home,  to  which  he  eventually  returned,  to  )>ecome 
tho  master  of  Nero.  There  the  etoio  hecanw  a  coitit 
favourite,  and  ainiii(H.-d  n  Inr^L-  I'urtnnu  in  a  few  yL*nrs, 
Then  he  hiid  not  only  to  Hiinvndcr  tiix  ni'ivly-iifijiiirtrd 
riches,  hat  life,  to  his  ti;,'er  ptipil.  Hu  had  lft.t<?r  hiive 
reninini-d  an  exile  even  in  the  [on«ly  Pino  towur,  in  ahhorrul 
Corxicii. 

Thrre  in  nt  BnRtio — an  important  fuct  for  trnvclletu— o 
thoi-uughly  well-informed  nnd  esperienoed  iiie<liuil  priic- 
titiKiii'r,  Vt.  Minilmli,  the  6ur<'eon  of  the  civil  hospital. 
H»  in  11  RkilAd  operator,  nnd  oeeiipie«  a  Ii-adiii;;  povitiou  its 
such  in  ('orsioa.  The  ull  tnit  iinil'onii  ^nieuei'M  Lhiit,  iieeord- 
ing;  to  my  Burgical  iulurmuntd,  uttendH  siirfpiw)  pnictieu  nt 
BHKtiii  und  clxewhorc,  tf|)cuk8  greatly  for  the  ^enerul  healthi* 
Dim  of  lh«  climiit«,  as  well  atf  for  their  atiill. 

Dr.  Munfredi  was  educated  in  Parif,  and  han  now  lH>en 
practising  as  an  operatinjf  eurf^o  in  Corsica  lor  mere 
Ihiiri  thirty  yeiirs.  The  ditfereiiee  hel.ween  snr^jery  in  PuriB 
and  Mirirery  in  Conica  wim,  he  told  nie,  pirfixitly  niiirr.]- 
lous.  Nearly  all  aur^ieul  wounds  heal  iit  onoe  by  lir»t 
intention,  and  pui-'ilent  al>«>q>tiun  is  all  bitt  unknown. 
He  luLi  Imd  many  euxie*  of  iitlmtomy,  nnd  bus  l>een  bik'lv«s- 
ful  in  all.  Indeed,  ho  said  he  hud  mich  nelianeu  on  our^ea) 
cases  doin^  wull,  that  there  vae  no  operation  in  ourgvr/ 
that  hv  )>iioiilil  hueitale  to  attt-nipl.     On  heiiriog  thin  fctat<>* 

a  11 


370 


coasioA. 


ment,  T  ooncltitlctl  tliat  it  ia  nil  but  wortli  while  to  j;o : 
Corsica  eX|>reMly  In  be  npcruU'd  on, 


of  <tirc  nwd. 


cniw 

Ai»iit  thirty  mike  south  or  Hualia,  in  the  miditt  or  the 
Caiitii;Ci>i('<:i<>>  or  Clicwtiiut  country,  in  tlio  centre  ol'a  hif{b> 
land  r(>t>i«ii  roriii(!<l  l>j-  Kpurx  of  tlio  linicctmia  chnin  of 
mountniiis,  is  a  niiiieral  sjiriitt;  called  Orez/ii,  the  vratcrx  of 
which  nrn  rvnowiied  all  over  Europe.  It  is  »  etron^ 
chnlvbiMtv,  loiidcil  with  cnrl>0Dic  ncid.  This  sprin;;  is  of 
iiieslimahle  riilue  in  a  country  like  Corsic-jt,  in  whiclitbo 
principal  <lisi>af<e  the  iiihabitaota  have  to  contend  willi  is 
"niiilnviii  fever,"  or  inicimitt*nt  fever,  in  its  mor«  npsra- 
vatcil  funiiw.  The  ii]>riwy  ib  huLicd  to  the  Viehy  ('oinpitny, 
who  have  lecontly  btiilt  an  hotel  and  a  rejftiliir  bulb  eeta- 
bliichment.  A  lew  hundred  fbct  above  the  principii!  liprin^ 
in  another,  wliicU  ooinbincK  iron  and  ttulphur,  iind  ta  VW 
vahmlile  in  chronic  cutaneous  dineaBeft. 

Dr.  Mnnfrodi  kindly  took  mc  with  him  to  visit  thi 
sprinffs  and  this  part  of  the  inland,  uttd  our  cM'ursioa 
provcfl  most  inl<r<'Ktinn.  The  villafie  of  Omxxa,  or  the 
grmtL-r  part  of  it,  t»  Uil-  liuctor'x  natrimoniul  ealate,  and  he 
posvessce  there  a  manorial  forlifiea  house,  which  t  inhabited 
during  our  slay,  and  which  I  examined  with  much  int«r«st. 
Tlif  outvr  walls  are  uf  great  ihicknnw,  wmpoMd  of  maMivfl 
HlurKH  simjdy  superposed,  and  th«y  bear  the  trace  of  the 
strife  of  jiast  days,  bullet  msrks  and  smoke.  Purine  the 
liundrols  of  yujir*  that  it  ha«  iMvn  inhabited  by  the 
fttioi-stora  of  Dr.  Manfrtfii,  it  liaa  many  times  been  attacked 
and  besicirod.  and  repeated  bnt  v.iin  atti?mpte  have  been 
nuidi-  to  licKlroy  it  by  fira  The  villujre  ii*  filuiitcd  iOUO  feet 
ttlHive  the  sea,  and  .5110  above  the  mineral  tipring.  From 
the  t«rraoe  Iwlore  Vi.  Manfredi's  bouse,  I  counted  twenty 
vilU^s  poruhfd  on  the  summit  of  iw  many  hills,  all  in 
eituations  «iipable  of  being  defended, 

OrexKB  is  one  of  the  regions  that  was  never  oonqucred 
by  CorHiiVs  foraign  foes.  Surrounded  by  mountains  ia 
evL-ry  direction,  tlic  sides  of  which  arc  covcn-d  with  roag- 
nifiovnt  and  very  productive  Cheatnut  treen,  it  hu  always 
mnint«tne<l  »  nuineroua  warlike,  patriotic,  freedom -lovin}^, 
and  very  idle  population,  deli^jhtin);  in  the  noblo  art  of 
war.     lb  is  a  part  ul'  the  Terra  del  OumuDc  uf  the  Conican 


OBEZZA — ENOUGH  6YMPATH1B5. 


371 


^ 


hiHtflriane.  It  was  bv  ttie  sons  of  this  dintrict,  principally-. 
Hint  tltu  lust  liiittku)  fur  tVeedorn  were  fuitglit  xgaiiitit  tlie 
GrniiLW*,  iimi  latterly,  a^^aiiiet  their  atlicf,  the  French. 

The  priest,  or  cure,  iim)  llic  mmyor  of  llic  vill«}jc  dined 
with  Ufi.  1  wiM  cliiirmod  by  their  Kimitlo  cordiul  manner, 
nod  HiirpriKi'd  by  iheir  knoivledge  of  tne  political  hiclory 
of  Eurctjie,  and  by  tlio  great  intcrLift  tliey  took  in  every- 
thin(c  Lhut  wns  English.  Thi«,  I  iound  from  my  host,  wu 
cx]>Iaiiiv(l  by  tbu  iiKiidi-nta  that  occuir^d  at  the  olow  of  the 
lant  wiitury.  As  I  Imve  already  fitnted,  during  ttie  last 
stmit^le  of  the  Conicui'*,  undtrr  their  glmioue  cbic^l^ain 
Paoli,  from  17M  to  1706,  tliey  had  the  warm  nytnpiitliy 
ind  piirtial  utistaiiGe  uf  Jin^laod.  Hence,  in  thiit  region, 
the  last  to  euccumb  to  French  rule,  then  considered  a 
fareiifO  tymnny,  there  xlill  lingi^rw  a  (^teful  remcmhranne 
of  Kngbind,  and  of  the  Nupiiort  she  ^ve  them  in  their 
extremily,  althou<;h  that  support  was  Ecanty  and  in- 
effietent.  Kni^bnd  had  then  uwny  focfl  to  contend  with, 
and  other  dutieH ;  ko  tliut,  althuuc;h  the  nation  onthusias- 
tically  ri-npondcd  lu  the  call  of  the  beroto  Comicunp,  but 
Httle  active  aid  could  bo  j^ivcn.  Several  memborti  of  my 
lioct's  family  long  remained  in  the  Kiigli»b  Eerviee,  in  the 
Cwreican  Rnn^ra,  after  the  annexation  of  their  country  to 
France  had  taken  place. 

The  mineral  Rpriu';  iksuos  in  ^reat  abundance  from  a 
oiroular  well  in  the  ix-ntm  of  an  open  building  on  a  smalt 
mountain  terrace,  plunti-d  with  Itccm  Ut  a  promenade.  It 
smrklcM  like  champagne  on  reaching  tlie  sarlaoc,  and  is 
uieasant  to  the  ttwto.  A  number  of  men  and  wonun  were 
bottling  it,  and  pueking  the  Iwttleti  in  cases  for  exportation 
to  the  Continent,  where  there  in  a  large  mIc.  This  chaly- 
beate, Ur.  Manfredi  told  me,  combined  with  thc^  pure 
moiinlain  air,  is  a  piTl'cct  pnuacen  for  the  aniemic  eoridi- 
tion  which  necompani^!'  and  follow*  neverw  attJicks  nl  in- 
termitlenl  fever.  Tbu»,  m^id  he,  Frovidenue  Iiiim  pl.iecd 
the  antidote  near  the  disease.  It  is  also  most  valuable  in 
caf-es  of  chlorosis,  or  debility  from  whatever  cnuse. 

Many  of  the  upper  claitMOi  from  RuHtiit  and  the  north- 
east of  Coroioa  pass  the  hot  summer  months  herxt;  partly 
to  tiike  the  waters  of  Oresza  on  health  grounds,  and  pnrtly 


CORSICA. 

tft  pocnpc  tlio  "Tcot  fiOJit  of  the  Bhore  nsjiion.  They  le 
tUeni)telv«s,  in  a  pnnii'.Jve  fimhiuii,  at  the  liomcK  of  tlie 
wciihl.ifr  peosants  in  tlie  mimerona  mouiilnin  villajr^s.  At 
iiti  vli'Viition  oCiimO  fti.-t  ibu  ni^lite  ate  Rliraye  cool,  and 
Ihf  tiiij'*,  iilllionijli  wiirm,  tiri;  «iil  t>i  piw*  fiU'a»nntljf  iiniltr 
the  rool  nhadi!  ot"  Hip  (^he^timt  trei'.-i.  T<>  tln'St'  pf  our. 
conn trv men  who  \vi§h  to  8pond  the  summer  in  Itnly, 
think  tlio  moiinUiu  rvlri-nl  orOrozxn  mi^fhl  oiriTT  it  vaIu> 
■Kk-  ry«i)iit«ir,  ulthoiigh  I  conitiilci-  the  ttnmraer  h«ut  vlill 
grwit  for  oonsiimpltve  or  detiilitatoil  {Kttietite. 

In  ihwe  inuimtaiii  vil)ti;;ve  thi.*y  noiilil  find  simple  but 
eonifni Uil>lc  iiL'i-ominixiiilion.  1  rnvM-lf  viiii(<!<l  m^vcrnl  af 
the  hiiiisifl  wlierc  "  locl;;iiiitB"  are  let  in  tlie  emnnx-r, 
niid  v.st»  Eiirprieetl  tv  llnl  how  nuit  :intl  clean  nnd  comr' 
furtiibic  llii-y  wcro.  Tin-  monlhn  of  Mny  luiil  Jinii^  >iii)*l)t, 
ut  U'luit,  be  profitably  spent  at  tb«  Onxxn  ttprin^ii  bjL 
those  who  wUti  to  combine  mounlain  sir  with  »  course  of 
nil uly Ill-ate  wntt'n  boforv  ruturnin^  to  tin-  mirth.  St.-veral 
ol'  my  frienilH  »n<l  pntieiito  hiivc  il»ne  no,  nnd  havo  been 
dc!i^lit4ril  witl]  llii-Ir  "niotilh  in  tlin  ni(>iintain!>,"  t'/itli  (lie 
heatity  of  the  siTnerv,  witli  the  coidial  siiiiplidly  of  tliQ 
mi<iiniuiiieere,  and  witb  the  rcsulu  gl'  the  mineral  (rater. 
tr«utnient. 

Awaking  early  tliu  morning  nflor  my  arrival  at  DrJ 
Miinrredi')'  hoKpiluMo  mountain  liome,  and  loukin^  oiitj  ] 
Mawr  a  erowd  ol*  peasant  men  and  tromen,  dre»f«d  in  tUeif 
Sunday  best,  pi'iiimbnhil inj*  l]w  Ivrnw  btinrath  the  m  indow. 
On  impiiriii);  of  a  nieinbfi'  of  my  lust's  funiily  the  mi-aniiif* 
oftliu  aBwmhliKv-,  I  wa«  told  that  they  were  peaaanU  who 
had  heard  of  tlie  doi-tor'!"  iirrivu),  anil  were  come  t*>  eonsultr  J 
him  t  When  he  eame  in  for  breakfast,  I  found  that  Im 
hud  I^H-n  hiisy  from  »ix  o'clock  ministering  to  their  wuntv; 
"  :i  few  words  ol  advice  or  eonwilatimi,"  he  said,  "  vcm  all 
th<'y  n-qiiired.  Although  anxioiiH  und  deli^iititi'd  to  be  of 
use,  the  extreme  cnlidi-nce  ol"  lii^  lelliiw  Limntrymei)  wiie," 
hi-  i-iiid,  "a  Had  hardniiip.  As  enon  »»  hie  arrival  at  Orezxa 
hivaniv  knotrn,  thry  always  llocki-d  in  from  the  sur- 
r<'Utidiii|;  villa;;<-K  in  kucIi  uiimheri'  ok  ponitivt-ly  to  bv»io^ 
tltv  hotiBo,  nnd  Ui  drive  him  btck  to  Itoftla  in  d«!t{inir.'"' 
'Xh«  key,  however,  to  this  JViendly  ]>crseculiun,  was  evi- 


L 


THB  RETORN— rKOADSIDE  PATIENTS. 


373' 


d«Dt1j'  the  k'md  tOiitanthropio  opirit  and  tlie  great  locjj 
nptitation  ol'Ur.  Slunfrcdi. 

As  we  returned  Immo  wc  wcw  n^peatedly  stopped  by 
" |MtK-iits"  wiiiliii'^  IW  (H  on  the  raadaide,«n«nellcd  with 
ptirplu  Cvelanit'ii  and  white  AspliodtO.  They  h«d  hfiii'd 
tliat  the  docUr  lind  Uwn  seiit  on  his  nny  to  Or<-Kvi:i,  iiiid 
were  waiting  lii»  rvtuni.  One  cum;  I  w«ll  recoilmrt.  A 
pour,  tliiu,  pule-fai'ei)  young  man  was  ailtint;  on  a  vhair, 
at  tho  roadside,  with  several  n^lativDs  nrouiid  him  ;  KifjiitS' 
wore  inadv  to  lie  to  stop,  and  thv  ca<c  wiw  fortliwilh  JDVtnt- 
tigalcd.  Th«  patJRiit  held  up  u>  »iir  nutinc  a  knue  sutolleu 
to  three  or  lour  times  its  natural  sise,  and  bc:iriii|>  Ihi: 
evidence  of  woful  duor^aniution  in  tlw  joint.  Dr.  Aliin- 
fmli  sliouk  his  hiMd,  and  said  to  him,  "  My  poor  IVivinl, 
all  trviitinvnt  would  W  iinuvitilin<;;  Ut  #nvc  your  liCe  the 
limb  must  come  otF.  ('nme  to  my  >ioi>|>iUil,  and  yoii  fihall 
have  a  bed."  Tlie  poor  lullim's  uhitv  lipti  ifHivt-rcd,  :iild 
he  merely  iioawvrcd,  "  I  will  wme."  Wc  tliuii  uxcmdi'd 
our  tight  i-nrriji^c,  and  WFl  him  fillini;  on  htx  chutr  in 
iho  road,  and  surrounded  by  hU  &vm[Mtl)izi))t;  nflalivea. 
I  h<-iinl  liititr  that  hu  did  untor  the  hoi>|>il»l,  had  hie  h-jf 
amputuU'd,  niid  in  now  a  hi-althy  young  man,  althim^h  n 
orippk'.  Throuj^iout  thin  journey  I  fell  thut  my  Irivtid'M 
poeilion  and  mission  in  remote  Corsica  wub  a  vt^ry  <;lorioiiii 
one— ono  that  bore  with  it  it«  own  reward,  and  mudir  up  fur 
many  «^tJl•^  unxiutiiTK  and  hvartaeltiM  that  are  insepiarablt) 
from  our  anluoti^  vart-er. 

We  stopped  to  breakfaiit  at  a  roadHidtt  iun,  where  we 
w«r«  very  cordially  rcwivvd,  more  as  fnende  tliati  an  p«y- 
iug  gucdt*.  HiTc  wc  had  more  pati«nt«  to  sue,  Iwth  birlore 
and  after  our  retiust.  Ah  \tc  wure  fitting  down,  a  thin,' 
wild-looking,  darK-comptexioned  man,  of  ubout  thirty-live, 
came  in,  and  was  introduced  to  mo  us  a  brother  |>raoti- 
tioncr.  I  ulWwiirda  learnt  that  hv  whh  a  nifmber  of  mime 
Itidian  medical  ooUnse,  and  that  he  pracli^-d  in  the  nei;rh> 
b(mriii['  vdlaji^.  lli^  ooat  waa  old  and  tbreadbjri*,  his 
nhirt  had  not  been  etian^^  fur  many  daVK,  and  his  hands 
spoke  not  of  daily  abhitioun ;  and  yi-i  Ibure  wan  nomeUtiriff 
in  him  that  bcepoke  a  redued,  cultivated,  intcUecliinl 
Datura. 


374 


CORSICA. 


Whilst  Dr.  Manfredi  was  aeeine  his  patienU,  my  now 
■equaiDtance  itnd  I  mt  down  on  a  log  on  thi;  rotulvide,  and 
disuouned  of  many  things.  I  fiiuni]  hi*  mrdicul  ideas 
often  wild  and  visionary  in  theory,  l>ut  practiciill^  be 
appeared  to  huve  gaint^d  considerablu  expeneiico  of  dtM-aor. 
Tlion  ho  rvvcalwl  hiniicflf  to  me  att  a  piict,  fnitili^rall^ 
fond  or  Cunic'ii,  hi*  native  country,  and  Tull  of  ratriotio 
and  poetio  fancies  about  \i»  mountains,  its  valloys,  its 
climate,  and  the  hi^jh  land  ere,  his  countrymen.  Jlulf  au 
hour  piui»ed  rapidly,  and  1  mis  sorry  to  take  IcAVe  of  thd 
wild,  poetio,  Conicun  villii^  doctor. 

1  have  often  thought  of  him  eiuce,  so  full  of  mental. 
TciinL-m<;nt,  of  chifsical  and  poetical  L'oiici.'iU>,  uud  y«t 
K|i(-iidiu^  hill  duyn  and  nights  for  a  bare  miiintenanec  \a 
miiiisti^riiig  to  the  pour  ignorant  peawints  around  him. 
I  have  seen  some  charminir  Uttle  ptjems  written  by  him, 
fall  of  et-ntitncnt  and  puthos.  IVrhiips,  bowcTer,  he  i« 
happier  (urroundrd  by  Inv  inaj«»tiv  ««euery  of  his  native 
country,  u  hii'h  lie  can  eo  well  app^c^>ia<4^,  and  in  pogseeeioo 
of  the  iilK-ction  and  cotiBdcnt-e  ot  hi»  simple  pal)cnl«,  than 
many  a  jj^reat  city  duelur  in  other  countneB. 

On  our  mule  to  and  fr<ini  Daetin,  wi;  paascd  along  th' 
salt-water  pond  of  Itigiiglia,  thmtigli  one  of  the  mosi 
malariouii  region*.  At  Ihjlliniv,  thu  latter  end  of  April 
there  was  uo  malaria  whatever.  The  countrj'  was  covema 
with  i^raES  and  green  eropF;  it  looked,  indei^d,  ao  emiliitK 
and  pretty,  m>  much  like  flat  healthy  meadow  land  in 
En^jland,  that  it  waa  really  dilllouH  to  lelivve  that  this 
verv  ri>gion  conld  bo  one  of  the  ptwtilontiiil  »p»ts  from 
whidi  every  one  llii'K  in  iintiimn.  .\ud  yet  aueh  is  th 
caif,  even  a  [lasiin^  traveller  might  all  but  haw  gnv 
that  the  country  nas  insalubrious,  from  the  couplei 
absence  of  furms  and  vilhif^'Xv 

On  the  mountiiii  »i«le,  however,  to  the  west,  away  fro; 
tJie  vliure,  were  uunioroiia  vilhiges,  all  at  an  eh-vati 
of  one  thoiitand  or  fiil«t.-n  hundred  fei-t  abovi:  t!ie  sea- 
leveL  Thev  were  thus  invariably  built,  1  waa  told, 
R-cure  the  inhabitauU  (tvm  mnlnrta.  The  owners  of  tin 
alluvial  shoie-plniua  who  retiide  in  them,  descend  in  Un 
mornin^f  to  cultivate  the  soil,  and  then  return  at  night. 


a 
J 


tioorl 


m 


CORTE — MALARLA, 


375 


The  principal  a<;riciilt,iiral  oporutions  on  the  ciut«m 
coast,  from  It.istin  to  BoiiitiiDio,  an  carried  (in  by  an  umi* 
gnitiun  wf  Liicchese  I'rom  the  Continent.  They  arrive  io 
November,  till  the  itoil  during  tho  winLur  month*,  whvn 
mshiria  is  ilormunt,  nnil  rulurii  t')  thirtr  own  muuntiiin*  in 
April.  Tiwy  TCiiuh  tlittir  nutive  villay;ei  with  a  i'ew  pounds 
in  their  pocket,  the  reault  of  the  winter's  InUoiir,  but  iiUo 
olU'n  with  the  seeds  of  fHUd  di)«i.-aei'.  The  crops  iirv  r4>Ji{ii;(l 
in  June,  and  thun  tho  maUrioux  pluiiiti  are  deiic:rl«d,  lult  la 
nature,  until  tlie  oolij  weather  of  autumn  hus  rendered 
them  suf'L-,  or  at  least  partly  so.  Tiic  CorsiiMU  siimmvr 
aun  in  to  fntive,  that  whurrver  water  *t«^naUf,  even  when 
deep  in  theauit  and  not  peroeptihle  to  the  eye,  it  appeura 
to  produce  malaria.  The  cbap)^  from  intense  heat  m  tho 
day  to  dump  coolness  in  the  nigfhtin  these  (li« trie [«  is  t^tn* 
■taiitly  aUendcd  with  the  generation  «f  fever. 

More  to  the  south  ttiere  are  plains  uueh  as  those  of 
Aleria,  a  Konian  colony  and  tuwn  in  Ibrmur  days,  witich 
are  even  mure  deadly  than  Unit  of  Bi!;ii|:;liu. 

Allbou)i;li  CurU:  ia  io  the  middle  uf  tho  mountMin«, 
fifteen  liiiiidred  k-et  aliove  the  level  of  the  sea,  und  merely 
traverKcd  by  a  hrawlm^  mounbun  tornnl,  1  I'uund  that 
in;iluria  fever  wan  rife  there.  Dr.  Teile''tilii,  the  h'-adin^ 
medical  proutitioner  at  Curte,  told  nie  lliitt  he  th(m);ht  the 
fever  wtis  cuuelnotly  developed  at  Corte  and  in  Con>ie4 
^nernlly,  in  xummur  and  autumn,  by  a  mere  dull,  i]nitft 
independently  of  any  malariuu*  inlhwuee.  Bvery  year  hu 
was  called  to  attend  very  nevere  ctueu,  l>niu}(bt  <mi  by 
«liilU Gsjiorieneed  from  merely  sitting  out  iu  the  cventnjf 
under  the  shade  of  a  ruiv  of  )>tan«  tTUuo,  in  the  centre  of 
the  town  or  elsewhere,  awn;'  iVoiii  all  water.  1  found  the 
Hnmu  opinion  prevalent  amont;  the  medical  men  both  of 
Uastin  and  Ajaecio. 

The  expL-ricnee  of  the  Conican  ni»dicul  practitioners 
thus  appeant  to  ecirroh'ifato  tb<:  viewn  entertained  by  a  much 
valued  friend,  the  late  Dr.  Itobert  Dundaa,  und  brou<{  lit  before 
the  proftiMtion  in  hie  intvrestio;;  work,  entitled  "  SkeUlies 
of  lirazil"(1852).  Dr.  Duudiu  provot  to  deinonntrdlion, 
by  numerous  fuctA  derived  fi'oin  his  lengthened  e!C|wrie»c« 
of  intermittent  fever  in  the  Bi-aziU  and  in  other  tropical 


376  cossicA. 

cliinat(>3,  that  tbe  purut  nnd  most  n-Iio1c«oinc  ecn-bKexa 
will  ulU'ii  give  rise  to  sevure   iiitrrmitU'nt   fcwri^,   wltcn  I 
tlio>;u  exposed  tn  it  are  dtbilitateil  by  lieal,  by  jutvioaa 
illtictf,  vr  liy  liodily  and  meiitnl   exIiniiHtioii,  or  are  in  ■ 
iiUit«  of  nciTiiirulioH  I'ruui  Ki-vi-rc  exGi'ti'>n.     At  Biihia  tki 
most  mmriotu  hotiHcii  urn  not  tliuiic  Unit  ore  cs]>Mtfd    tO~ 
wiuils  c(imiii|{  from  the  neiirhbouriitf;  inar9li«»,  but  *.hoM« 
tlint  arothcbesteituutedaccurdiniito  Knt^lish  id^jiB,  lltut«ra, 
(■^(p'mel,  H'illiout  proti.-cliiiti,  to  n  pure,  but  iinii*t  «<-ii-brL-ux«,. ' 
{^hill  uould  ))(>  tliv  vaufii  of  fuver  uoconlitij;  t''>  tliU  view. 

Anain,  Dr.  it«iinie,  in  an  interesting  work,  t>ntiileii  "'l'h« 
Briti>U  Arms  in  K^iitli  China  and  Jiipan,"  says  "that 
^oldicrK  raiding  in  tnnliirimi*  locidit ii.-K  and  in  low  situs- 
lioii!>,  fldcii  did  not  appear  to  HiilR-r,  but  wbttn  removed  to 
tbo  la-ifrhts,  and  freely  exposed  to  the  breeze,  they  were 
ntntek  down  with  li-voro."  Thi'sc  nnd  similxr  caMs 
oc-i'iirrin^  npiin  and  iij^iin,  lv«l  Dr.  Kcnnie  U)  oinL-lude 
that  the  low  Mtualionn  pruduccd  a  dfbililalini;  (tlh^ct  and  A 
predi^poKitioH  to  fuver  wliicih  attacked  the  wt-ukened  uifiii 
dit*ctly  tliey  were  exposed  to  cnrrenls  of  air.  Thus  n-hat 
wonid  hare  boen  found  invi;^ratiD^  to  ptreou"  in  hv.alth 
i'oidd  not  bu  endured  by  ttieiie  men  owiii|;  to  Uieir  ucakened 
'it«<o,  from  the  intenKu  heat  of  Miimuier. 

Most  of  the  nialariotis  rc}[iona  in   CoFHica  arc  on   or 
near    the    sca-shoro,   and  as  there  is    in    eumnier  a   very 
du'iiled  fM-brecu    during    the  day,  itH    uliillin^  inlhioii 
niny  bo  au  important  cuiihc  of  fever ;  the  predi§poiin^  cMno' 
bein'^  previoui^  exposure  to  intense  heat. 

The  Comiisn  mediud  pnictitioiient,  ulthou<;h  thu*  od- 
mittinpr  thai  a  ehill  will  produce  aguo  in  their  eliiiuit«, 
apart  from  the  inlluernoo  of  marsh  air,  give  the  Intler  fall 
wei;;lit  «6  a  caiue  of  fever.  It  would  be  dillteult  to  do 
oth(-rivi»t  in  a  ci'Unlry  like  Cortiica,  for  the  fever  ia  the 
mo(<t  severe  and  the  most  deadly  where  the  marshes  are  the 
mont  oxti-mive,  as  on  tlie  ca^^lern  e^a^t ;  whereas  il  alt  bnt 
dtsiipiiears  wherever  lull  and  etiioient  tlniinagc  in  carried 
ont.  Several  rvponi  wmv  {luintcd  out  lu  me,  hiic:1i  as  Saa 
FiorcHKO  anil  Calvi,  formerly  decimated  by  ferer,  and  now 
eomparalively  healthy,  through  the  drainage  of  ueighbuiir' 
ing  marshes. 


iryfl 


COBTE — ABAB  PRUtONEBS. 


377 


In  OUT  conntri'  a  chill  in  Buinm«r  doet  not  produce 
aiETue,  but  bruiiuliitis,  pli-urisy,  r  lieu  mat  ism,  or  diarrlia'a, 
liiit.  tlien  tiic  liiimuii  (xuiiomy  hnK  not  bvrn  pn-viuiisly 
ex)»<ini;d  to  iiitvuMo  tropical  huat.  Still,  otir  iniirNliy,  uii- 
druiued  districts,  euch  as  tli«!  feiia  of  Liuooliishiro,  are 
mnlarious,  lil>o  the  mnrelics  of  CokIcji,  iniermittfut  IV-vor 
appvttrin<;  in  iiittiiinu,  Bp|iiii%titly  without  previoiu  tropivul 
huitt  or  cxiHWurc  t^  rcvo^isable  dtillH. 

Corlo  is  historically  uiterwtinj;  lor,  not  Iwing  exposed 
ti)  uttiurU,  lik«  tlif  Khorv  towns  in  olduii  time*,  it  bruiLme 
the  putTiotic  capilal  of  ('umiiiu;  it  iijipcaird  to  me,  huw- 
ovcr,  one  of  the  least  piftures(|ue  towne  tliat  I  saw.  Tlia 
prinvipul  si);hl  is  an  old  hi»itoncnl  v&g%\«  n-orth  vivitiTi};, 
Oh  uiic  of  my  vlfiU  to  thix  uiullo  it  wa*  tcnutit^-d  by 
ibur  litindred  Arab  priaoriers,  tJiWeii  in  war  in  Algeriii, 
by  the  tVench,  sod  tlicrein  conliocil.  It  was  ead  to  see 
tlii»c  i-hildrvn  of  the  d«M;it  with  ihfiv  liuroc-  black  r\im 
and  swarthy  coniplvxionK,  urapjiL'd  u|j  in  their  bournoiidi 
or  mantles,  walkinj;  or  Ijiiitf  liatltssly  about  tliu  uourt- 
yardo,  drwiming  no  doiilit  of  liU'rty,  of  thv  KiinUirnt  tnud 
•4'  ihuir  futhi-n.  Many  wcro  tvaiiiiii;  over  tho  ]'anij>iirtii, 
looking  st«adraHtly  at  the;  distant  mouiitaiiiB,  proWbly  in 
iina^iniition  scidin^i;  their  faAtncBwe  iu  frL-cdom.  Some 
fwlloH-fd  our  movenieiiis  wistfully  with  the  «y«,  whcn'Vcr 
we  went,  no  doubt  envying  our  i><>wer  of  ifgnnn.  U  mude 
my  heart  acho  t^  look  at  tbeni,  and  1  waa  ;,'lud  to  leave  the 
cactJo.  IViHiULTs  in  wild  Ova  Corsieu  ei'L-nnud  un  ana> 
chniniiim,  it  «tid  blot  ><n  the  hnd.  The  pcnr  Arjl»  had  to 
remain  eooped  up  in  thiH  mounUtin  vnittle  one  long  dreiu-y 
your  iniiii!,  and  (hen  thvv  were  liberated,  on  the  occasioD  of 
thi!  Krencli  Km|>eror'e  vn^it  to  Al;;criu. 

In  tho  nt'ii^bbourhood  of  Corl«,  at  Poitto  Lccoia,  are 
some  u>|iper  mines.  The  projirieloni  told  me  t)>ut  the 
mines  wore  getting  into  ;>ood  workint;  ordt-r,  and  wuuld 
certainly  prove  a  vahinbKt  Kp<:'<-nlat ion.  ludi^'d,  Comicii 
ollei'n  a  wide  liuld  near  homo  tu  the  spevulutivo;  its  mints, 
its  marble  quarries,  its  foreittB,  and  its  vinevftrds  are,  no 
diiitbt,  capnblv  of  bein^;  worked  with  advantii^fe. 

Iwtla  Itonita,  or  Ilu  ituuKse,  is  a  small  modern  town, 
founded  by  Paoli  in  the  laltvr  purl  of  last  century,  wilb  a 


378 


CORSICA. 


pocid  port,  null  wwkly  fixmm  commnnicnlion  wUli  >far- 
seitles.  Ttio  couHt  itm)  noiiiitry  are  |iiolur«t>({ti«,  but  tlioru 
is  no  QccooirooilAtion  for  sininjrera,  except  the  litllu  inn.: 
Moi^fvor,  the  soiilh-wwiterly  witKis  must  be  trying,  if  wo^ 
inay  ju<lgo  by  thv  iiiclinrd  tninlcK  of  the  trtj(!ii  on  the  shore. 
The  I>ean8  and  rye  were  rijie  on  tiio  25tli  of  April,  nnd  tlio 
planiM)  were  in  lull  leaf.  There  is  on«  himdsuiiie  modem 
lioiue,  likt*  n  qi>ii(Iruii(;ul»r  cii*tlc  of  tlio  olilmi  time,  btflonj^- 
in}"  to  M.  PiiTioiii,  the  brother  of  my  fiieod  at  liuHliii, 
from  whom,  too,  1  received  ifreat  att«ntion> 

Cttlvi  is  nn  old  Buit|>oi't,  further  bouth,  for  centurieti  ooflO-1 
pied  by  th«  {ienovM^  to  whom  it  over  remained  faithful; 
ite  motto,  "SeD^per  I'SdeliB,"  may  be  still  seen  on  th«  gwttf. 
It  o(x'iipic»  a  hi);h  promontory,  which  fomi>  one  Mtdei  of 
very  line  and  tciU-mbly  vafv  bay.     The  upper  part  of  Unl 
town  is  a  niius  of  niins,  ami  Iws  been  so  ever  since  it  ««•>' 
boinbiirdcd  in   llOi  by  Neleuti,  who  there  )o»t  an  eye.     It 
in  quil«  ein;;ulnr  to  walk  ttirout^h  the  strMs  among  tha, 
fullinf^  walls  of  hoiiM-e,  sotne  merely  shattered,  nonie  partlrt 
burnt,  aa  if  by  n  bomUinlment  of  yent^trday  only.     Buloir' 
tliese  sbell-and-cunhoii  devualjited   houses  are  lho«e  OC«u< 
pied  by  th«  modem  town. 

Aerotw  the  iimull  b;iy  is  a  scfnieireiilar  plain,  a  fevr  miL 
only  in  depth,  and  bounded  by  u  semicircle  of  ^lorio 
Bnow-caplH-d  ^rsnit«  mountains.  The  viciv  Irom  the  ram-' 
parta  of  Cidvi  is  |>crffeLly  mii^nifiottut>.  Fr<im  the  aides  of 
tfaeM  mountaiiiM  run  vevitral  lurrents  or  rivers,  which  have, 
us  luual,  converted  the  alluvial  plain  inlo  a  fever-bn-cdingi 
district;  ticiieu  the  extreme  niihrnlthinox  of  Calvi  ia 
Uie  past.  The  dmimijrc  and  eulliv;ili»n  of  aorne  of  tlicao 
iTtnishea  have  niiieh  improved  its  sanitury  c^mdition.  Tho 
pluin  is  ix>vered  with  the  ever*present  maqiii*,  Myrtle, 
Cystus,  llenth,  Arbutus,  and  LcntiseuM,  and  looks  oa  iun 
cent  as  p»«ibtv.  1\)  render  it  ix-jdly  **>,  the  torrents  would 
have  to  bo  vmbanke<l,  and  the  itoil  drained  and  vtdtivat 
Wlwrover  (his  i»  done  uiaUria  all  but  dtsap)iettn>,  even  il 
Coniew.  M.  Piccioui,  of  leola  Itosm,  lius  purchuMid  a  oon- 
liidi-nililc  triiet  of  IhiH  land,  and  in  elrarini;,  diiiinin^,  una 
VollivatinK  'tiaB  a  h'lwiin  tohia  fellow-oiintrynii-iiiiK-'aU 
The  huid  thus  brou^lil  into  cullivutioii  is  turuiii|j  out  in 


A  COOL  SUH31ER  RETKEAT. 


87a 


I 


proiliictir?,  nnd  UiU  phiUnthropic  lesson  will  eventually 
prove  11  profititlilL*  in  vest  men  t. 

One  of  the  objects  oF  my  visit  to  CorsicA,  as  eleewlivro 
Btate<l,  was  to  find  ii  perlectly  v>iol  summer  station  for  thu 
Kii^HkIi  c»nMiai]ilivc  inviiliilii  \vli»  wisth  to  pnss  the  suintner 
aUriiiid.  1  t'outiil  Htatioiis  mich  aa  Urezui,  aud  the  batlis  of 
Gua(i;iio,  near  Aj^K'cio,  wbicli  would  do  very  wul)  fur 
healthy  persons,  unxious  to  tvciipf  Irom  the  cxlremL'  beat 
of  soiilhiirn  Kuropc  during;  the  ttiiminer  mouths.  But 
these  localities  are  not  siiflieiently  hi;*b  and  cool  to  Itc 
G^MSen  as  summer  retre^its  l>y  invalids.  The  Ulti-r,  ua 
proviotmly  exphiined,  otighl,  if  po^'iblu,  to  kwp  in  a  dry, 
oool  tempenittii-e,  between  OtJ"  iin<l  70'  Fah.  The  Corsicans 
do  not  leel  the  want  of  sueh  a  summer  temperatorc,  and 
liBve  ooneequeiitly  made  no  etibrt  to  find  it. 

On  cronsing  tlie  granite  chain  on  the  way  from  Corte  to 
Ajaccio,  we  cime  to  a  B))ot  between  Vivario  and  Bocognano, 
caliuA  Foci,  the  moat  elevated  tliat  is  passed,  wliieh  woitlil 
no  doubt  do  admirably  for  such  n  summer  siinitjiriiiin. 
We  won;  ([iiite  lour  llmni'und  feet  high,  ami  hiiil  K-lt  the 
maritime  Piiies  anil  the  ('hestnuts  far  below  ;  the  trees  had 
become  Kn^liub  trees — lleceh.  Birch,  and  Larch.  The  air 
was  eool  und  pleasiint,  the  sky  clear,  thu  mountains  very 
beuutirul;  but  there  wa*  uuly  a  small,  dirty,  roadside  inn. 
No  dmibt  the  .\jaeeiana  would  shudder  at  the  idea  of 
Hpeiiiiiii^  their  summer  in  such  a  lucidity,  und  vvt  it  i» 
a<lii>i[iibly  oituiiteil  fur  n  euol  niuuiituin  hoUil,  or  winiturium, 
suuh  ail  abound  in  SwiijurLind. 

Nulhiti);  would  be  more  enjoyable  than  to  pMn  two  or  three 
moiitiis  in  midsummer,  in  the  pure  mountinn  atmuoiiheni 
of  MUeh  «  Mfiot,  in  the  very  midst  of  the  primeval  fiire»t. 
The  Lnrche*  line  ibv  miv*  of  the  all  but  perpeiidiinilnr 
muuDtiiins  around,  climbing  in  serried  ranks  towardx  the 
sky,  until  they  reach  thu  simw  line.  The  Uuei^heu  in  tbe 
vulleya  and  ravines  are  growing;  aa  luxuriantly  us  in  our 
own  country,  and  form  a  ifloriuns  shade  from  the  still 
ardent  sun,  Tbe  moss-i-over>.-»l  ground  is  enamelled  with 
wild  lloweni,  und  tlie  entire  scene  It  eiiUvened  by  brawling 
torrents  and  streamlets  of  pure  crystal  water,  dashing 
over  tlie  roctis  in  their  impetuuua  doscent  to  Lb«  pbiuis. 


380 


CORSICA. 


I   have   twiM   crossed   tliia  ffloriotis  mountAin    jtx^,  « 
voch  lime  tlie  irrdtional  impulse  bsB  Wt-ii  ftrong  upou  im 
to  lei  th«  C4iinae:c  i>o  on  iiloiir,  mwi  to  taku  my  ulianoe  in 
Uh)  wiMii  «r  thMH!  &>n>iciin  mountains. 

The  inhabttaDta  of  the  mora  eouthem  regions  of  con 
Dcnla)   Eiiropo  do  not  ecom  to  posMCXM,  in  Uie  alifi;htei 
degree,  th«  rovin;;,  advoiiliirouii  spirit  of  our  ooUDtf^mi-i). 
They  do  not  iindeKtiind  oar  love  fur  the  piel«««<(in',  <iwr 
reMdiiiees  to  uiidor;^  niiy  amount  of  priviitioii  und  luti^ne 
in  tite  eiidwivotir  to  find  it.     I  well  Krnemtier  one  of  tlio 
most  oceoraplUhed,  cultivated,  and  retiuud  Italian  iiiilde- 
ifitH  I  have  met  with  »yini;  to  mo  "that  he  eould  not 
onm]>r<!ht;nd  Die  Engtinh  i^in^  up  n  mountain  merely  to 
eoroo  down  a^aiii.     It  Appeared  to  hiui  all  hut  an  act  of 
iiiMitiity.     IIo  was  resdy  to  undergo  ar.y  nmount  of  liitigue 
<ir  exoJtion  for  n  s*olojjie»l  or  botanical  purpose,  but  as  to 
^\liaualiiig  liiniM'tf  a»  wc  did,  merely  to  look  round  hitd^H 
from   tlin   top   of  a  mountain  at  naked   roeks  and  uruH 
titoncfi,  he  4!ould  not  do  it,  and  did  not   utitlenttand  ila 
betn;f  done." 

llenov  the  higher  cIomos  in  thcM  oouutriet  are  rarely 
fonnd  away  from  home,  except  iu  vitica  or  m  waU'rini; 
places,  where  they  congre^t«  fur  a  tangible  pur}H»i', 
health  and  society.  As  a  nc-ece^ary  r««ult,  in  the  wil>li.-«t, 
most  rrtircd.  and  at  tin:  same  lime  the  tnost  beaiitiiol 
reirio'ts,  there  i^  otlen  no  kind  of  aeeommodation;  for  noDO 
hut  pcaaanls  or  rovintf  KnKlishmen  visit  ihcm. 

It  in  worlliy  of  remark  that  a  love  of,  and  an  eiilhiuiaBtio 
ftp|)T«ciation  of  the  pieturxsigiie  in   nature  is   a  result  <  ~ 
ratication  andof  retinemcnt ;  imiicht  add,  of  modern  refini 
mrnl.     It  ic  very  seldom  met  with  in  the  nncdnented,  who 
grnenilly  >°eeni  to  live  in  the  niidHl  of  the  most  beautiful 
scenery  williuul   it«   making   the   least   iniprasioa   upon 
ihem ;  tho>-  ;;aze  on  it  like  sheep,  stolidly.     1  have  beei 
Htruck,  uhd,  in  reading;  poetti  and  writura  even  of  the  ): 
century,  by  the  very  ditlurvnt  manner  in  which  theysp[ 
to  appreciate  scenery  as  comiiarcd  with  the  appreciationH  of 
inoilrrn  wnlcra.     lu  ihcir  eyes  a  heather  ooverud  common 
iM  wild,  hhTfik,  melanchuly  ;  a  ja^f^d  preoipitoua  mouniaiu 
is  sombre,  detolale,  thixuilouing.     Now-a-daya    th«  i'-^ 


VICO — AN   KQUfiSTKIA.V   EXCCIISION. 


381 


rnieed  in  the  mind  of  nti  iidmircr  of  nature  1>j  Ute  Bame 
wptif?  wiiuld  lie  exactly  the  roveree. 

Tlie  roftea  j'oretfi^-rft,  or  fonwt  rooiU,  whiult  have  bft'n 
and  aTi>  being  €0ii»tniclinl,  in  orjcr  In  n\wn  oiit  the 
liit)ii-rti^  iiinccesiiblt]  prifneral  forcat«  in  the  liiK'ter  moun- 
Uiu  reifians,  nii^ht  be  roudo  tlie  mcane  of  «  rvty  cnjoyat>1o 
t4>ur.  A  ligbt  wirriap-,  char-it-liAnv  or  wufji?>n,  coiild  be 
cl)iirt«re(l  nt  Un^tb,  and  eqiii)>|>cd  willt  su]i|>liea,  an  for  a 
journey  in  South  Airti;a,  with  hnmtitockH  and  other  (ftpciy 
equiginiunU,  Thii*  umutd  ihe  wiM«rD««t  iiii-jbt  he  cii- 
ooaiitorod,  and  what  nilh  local  rcsouroeii,  anil  thv  ukvIa- 
binM  of  the  vilb};e  cans  or  prie«t«,  the  Core i fan  hi:;hlaii(ls 
could  lie  explored  in  every  dirvvtion.  Hiiil  I  lei^ui-c  I 
would  certainly  carry  out  tbisi  plan  :  tlic  mitimta  nhouM  be 
April  anil  May. 

A  lon<;  way  <lown,  on  th«  woetcrn  slope,  we  found  A 
favourite  hoL-wfuthcr  n.-trc«t,  ttucv^^tiano.  It  in  n  Ch«sl- 
nut  coniitty  village,  like  (>rfx/.a,  and  iuunn^illy  a  very  hot 
place,  i'nr  wc  were  iialf  ro^-ixted  in  April,  during  the  time 
we  remained  f.r  hreakrii^l.  It  is  true  the  Cbtstuut  trees 
were  not  yut  in  fidl  hraf,  ntu\  gave  no  sliade. 

'Hie  baths  of  (ruaj^no,  ahimt  twenty  mitist  north-mrt  of 
Ajnecio,  are  (jreatly  renowned  in  Cursica.  'I'be  wntera  are 
sulphiirons,  an<l  ninch  rn-i|iicnlcil  in  summer.  It  ie  to 
(he  fii"hi<iniibli*  wi'rid  uf  Ajuidi  what  Oixixzii  in  tu  tluit  of 
Haitia.  fltutgno  it)  prettily  situated,  alxiiit  titttn*  mites 
fmm  Vioo,  in  a  "  fold  '  of"  the  mountain,  amijHt  a  forest  of 
Cho«tniit  tree*,  and  i*  in  tliu  immediate  vicinity  of  one 
of  the  largest  and  gran<li>nl  of  the  primeval  fore"!*!  of 
Comics,  tJtal  of  Aitoite.  Evisa,  about  fifteen  miles  JMyoiid 
Vi<Hi,  in  (lie  nfAreat  [loint  lijr  the  forest. 

At  Vioo,  the  Win  of  onr  parly  were  nio«t  Iiojipitably 
received  hy  a  Corsican  gentleman  and  bin  family.  A  pieiiiu 
excursion  to  the  forest  was  proposed  and  accepted,  and 
one  of  our  vompanioni,  a  young  Lidy  from  Yoiltehitv, 
aceiistotiieU  to  fuliow  the  hounJa  and  n  jMirfix:!  <^|iic<triuii, 
^>at1y  8urpri«>d  tiic  escort,  compofwd  of  wime  eeoro  or 
two  of  ('or*ican  gentlemen.  MnunUiI  on  a  xlpin^  mnuu- 
tain  pony,  dre«sed  in  a  scarlet  (iariltatdi  and  »ii  impi^iviMd 
habit,  t>b^  valiantly  took  tbe  lead,  and  kept  it  tbruttgliuut 


883 


COBSICA. 


n  ri<lc  of  more  tliait  thirty  mile*,  there  and  bncV,  over  }iit 
and  tlale,  up  and  down  precipitous  roads  fri^htrnl  to  looli 
nt.  Our  l)ruvo  miil  nmcli  admirtNl  yotiiig  conn  try  wonuol 
rutiinied,  I  am  liappy  to  say,  in  triumph,  iiafe  siiil  tuxind. 
'n>is  is  more  than  can  be  snid  of  all  her  fbllowers, 
for  eomo  awkwnril  tuniblve  took  jiIbog  otnong  Ihem; 
but,  furtu»at«ly,  tliey  v,-«rc  unattended  with  uii)'  nerioua 
oonseqiK-'nces. 

The  road  from  Ajiioclo  to  Vioo  ia  |*r>ndly  bcantirul. 
On  K-iivin^  Ajuc-»i<i  it  ditnlia  un  tlK*  fiili-x  of  oiio  of  tha 
lateral  granite  spui-s,  to  a  hei<j:ht  ol  S20U  feet,  and  llien 
dewends  into  a  mo^t  bvi-ly  and  pict<iri>g(|U(>  valley,  Lia> 
mono  bv  name.  It  is  shut  in  bj'  the  hi^U  for^t-covvrcd 
moHutaina  to  the  east,  by  the  blue  sea  to  the  west,  and 
north  and  south  hy  the  granite  buttresses,  one  of  which 
wc  were  then  i-roiwiiiff.  'flu.'  first  i^limpic  of  this  wide 
Mnihiie  valley  waa  a  revelation  of  tliu  mdal  condition  of 
it«  iiihuhitants,  and  of  this  part  of  the  island  in  genenil. 
Before  the  rond  ou  which  wl>  were  travelling;  was  made, 
those  who  dwelt  in  it  ntui't  have  been  tpiite  shut  out  from 
the  world,  even  from  the  little  Corsican  world.  The  trtf 
dilionit,  cuatoina,  and  ideas  of  their  anceBtors  must  havoj 
hcen  transmitted  from  one  generation  to  another,  wit 
link-  or  no  chnnp',  and  century-  afler  ecutiiry  would  thi 
piLH  without  modifyintf  the  national  charsoleriatica. 

In  one  corner  of  this  smilin;;  valley,  on  a  promontory  that 
juta  into  tho  sea  from  iU  north-western  extremity,  tlwra 
in  It  little  vilUfte  called  Car^se,  which  iitriin}i;ly  illimtntt 
Hieee  lacta.     In  the  fourteenth  century  eevcral   hundr 
Greeks,  Hying  from   Turkish   tj'ruiiny,  weni   allowed   by^J 
the  Conicana  to  land  in  this  remote  spot,  and  to  found  a) 
colony.     Such  as  it  was  then,  it  is  to  Itiia  day,  a  Greek! 
colony.     The  drsccndanta  of  the  fimt  settlera  have  retained 
their  rcli(>rioii,  tJieir  lauguutre,  ihi'ir  drei>!i,  their  custome, 
without  mixiutt  with  the  sunounding  population,     It  is 
villaic^  of  Attica,  loot  in  u  corner  of  Corsica. 

At  ttie  mountain  vill^o  of  Vieo,  for  it  i«  a  mere  village, 
aUhnti-;h  dignified  hy  the  name  of  town,  wc  were  hoe* 
pitnbty  received  at  a  small  and  unpretending  inn,  Th« 
servant  maid,  who  served  us  at  supper,  n  pretty  girl 


A  DILIGENCE   ADVENTTTRE. 


3S3 


SBvcntoon,  had  tliorou^hljr  Qrcnlan  fuatures,  and  on  my 
aHkiiiur  lier  whence  ehe  cuiai,  slic  anawereil  Irom  Curj^ese. 
On  inquiriii);  as  to  whctlier  ehc  meant  to  tnarrj'  nt  Vico, 
elio  eni<i  no,  xhv  muxt  go  hoint!  for  that. 

Tlur  ri>u<l  beyond  F:>nu>  )>aBBea  through  the  wildest,  mo«t 
mounliiinoiiB,  and  most  iiiaocvMiblc  part  of  the  etilirtf 
ooBst,  'r\n'  priinerid  IdivsI  here  desceiidii  ull  hut  Ut  the 
Bco-hne  on  the  weat,  whilst  il  elimhs  up  the  nii>uat«in 
peaks  and  biittrcMcs  on  the  caxl,  and  conimunii'ati.-8  wilh 
ncnrly  id)  Uie  grandest  and  most  inaceMMible  foreatu  of 
tho  ixinuii.  in  the  nearest  forest,  that  of  Ailone,  are  in- 
numerable larches  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  hiffh, 
with  II  diameter  of  nine  I'eut  at  their  banc.  They  )>ii«ti 
thuir  vii^TOua  roots  in  the  crevieea  of  the  hnrdcxt  roctcii, 
on  the  most  precipitous  ret;ions  of  the  mountain,  and  then 
rise  etrait;l)t  aa  an  arrow,  pointintf  to  the  elouds.  The 
hardy  pedestrian  would  tinil  in  thete  f'orewt-uhid  inotin- 
tains  innucuerahle  sites  comhiniog  "  the  wild  and  s-'ivage 
Wanty  of  Swiss  scenery  with  the  it>n1ation,  the  silence,  of 
the  primeval  forcHta  of  America."     (Matnnocplii.) 

On  our  excursion  to  Vico  we  bud  an  adventure,  which 
may  be  worth  rulatinc  as  an  illustration  of  Comicsa 
trav<rl.  .\t  the  stage  which  commences  at  the  summit  of 
the  niountnin  ascended  on  lettvin);^  Ajuccio,  vrv  took  up,  as 
driver,  a  wild,  half-iotosicated  young  Cnrsican,  whose  looks 
none  of  na  likvd.  When  on  tli«  box  he  found  that  he  luid  loxt 
his  whip,  butrvgardlessof  thutvtty  important  fact,  he  ?larti-d 
in  I'rand  style.  We  were  de^cendinr  by  a  road  several 
miUii  in  leniflh,  from  the  summit  to  the  base  of  tbe  moun- 
tain. Gntiliiully  the  speed  of  the  horees  iDcreit«eil,  but 
instead  of  restraining  them  he  uryed  thorn  on  by  wild 
shouts  and  gesticulations,  until  the  lieavy  dilig«noe  flew 
down  the  steep  deocent.  In  vain  we  tried  to  make  him 
moderate  bis  speed:  both  he  and  his  horses  seemed  too 
excited  to  listen  to  reason,  atid  we  continued  to  plunge 
madly  downwards,  turning  shurp  corners  in  stich  a  manner 
OS  to  threaten  inxtant  deitniulion.  Wc  saw  that  be  could 
no  longer  stop  tbe  horses  if  he  wished  it,  »o  concluded  to 
leave  him  alone,  and  to  take  our  cliance. 

The  bor^eit  were  three  in  number,  driven  abrosst ;   the 


S84 


CORSICA. 


contri>  one  n  powerfiil  Hlnllion.  A»  we  n<>nrci]  tlio  valley, 
mai)<li-tieil  \>y  tin-  9|iei<i  and  liy  tlie  m<»  of  lit*  wilil  «lrivcr, 
he  &ud<lLMily  jumped  ou  o»e  of  the  horee*  by  his  side,  like  a 
wolf  1^11  a  licKT,  {m\kx\i^\  hi«  ttetl)  uilo  i-ucli  Milu  pf  the  back, 
nnd  bil  him  M  NBViigvly  Unit  th«  lilond  y|>iirt4!d  on  the  roiul 
on  both  aidce,  Thv  pnor  harai',  tbtis  attacked,  ntircd  iitid 
pluiif;<--(l,  writhii)^  and  haokin;;.  The  dilii^nce,  .during 
the  Mtmgylc,  nan  pwnyed  in  vvtiy  direction,  and  finally 
bnckud  to  the  >iUi>,  ubt^ni  there  wm  a  precipitous  di-»ix!iit. 
Wu  should  DO  doubt  linve  been  tliroivn  down  it  had  Dot 
the  conductor,  a  bnivo  old  mnn,  iniinujprd  l«  jump  down, 
and  with  uur  ai«tia1iinee  to  ^-t  hfild  i>f  tho  liurfwx'  hewle. 
llie  driver,  having  no  whip,  was  «juit«  jtowcrluM.  The 
«idv  hum*  wera  sn  tcrriGcd  to  he  near  thoir  eiivnge  com- 
junioit  tJntt  wc  had  grwat  dililcuHy  in  reaeking  tlie  viid  of 
tlie  stn^. 

On  the  return  jotirney  we  found  the  wild  driver  vruitinff 
for  iiii,  but  I  hud  heard  in  liie  me-jnvliile,  nt  Vic<i  and 
etscHbero,  tliat  ho  wns  a  hrutui,  drunken,  j>ood-fi}r-iJuthin(; 
j-oulh,  the  t^-rror  of  the  road,  that  he  diiily  tin|)i.'ntlcd 
the  eafeiy  of  the  diligence,  L^it  that  he  was  known  to  be  of 
po  violent  a  character  that  no  one  duntt  comptiiin  ol  hinij 
fur  fear  of  the  conKifiuenevs.  I  and  my  frivntU  at  onoe 
refused  to  let  him  Itei-p  his  Hcnt  on  the  box,  and  insiitted 
ou  thoprvvious  driver  tnkini;  ug  through  to  Ajnccio.  With 
threat  oifGciilty  wc  made  him  dixmount,  and  got  to  our 
journey 'fl  end  safely. 

On  arrival  1  immediately  lod<;ed  a  complaint  a^inst 
thi»  mun,  and  to  make  «ure,  aUo  tval  it  to  heail-quMrters 
at  Uastid.  1  mutt  cuitfesH,  hoivever,  that  1  nnd  nty  friend* 
were  not  sorry  we  were  leaving  Ajaecio  ihc  next  day, 
linviiig  a  vngtic  idea,  uilU  Corsicnn  vendetta  Hlniin^  us  m 
the  faoo,  lluit  we  had  miule  the  place  ruUier  "loo  hot"  for 
UB.  i  must  add,  however,  that  this  is  the  only  instance  in 
whteh  I  hiid  reason  to  complain  of  the  drivers  diirini;  my 
three  viitiu  to  CorMtea.  1  bi-liere  that  it  wii«  i\i\\le  an 
accidental  circumstunce,  for  in  every  <ither  in^tanoo  I 
have  fpimd  them  courteous,  and  although  rutlier  daring, 
prudent  iind  careful. 
a  9'be  suuthcni  teigions  of  Coruca,  both  on  tlie  west  and 


GBANrTB  SPURS  ON  SOUTH-WEST  COAST.     365 


eiist  Kide  of  tlio  contra!  mountain  ran<r«9i  are  mui;1i  mom 
wi!il,  more  unuuttivuU-d,  ami  more  sparsoly  mlmliiti-J,  tliitii 
the  nortliem.  On  my  third  visit.  1q  Cori^io*,  in  tb«  Bprin^r 
of  lt)(18,  1  (levoU-iI  liie  t;riiitLT  part  of  the  few  weeks  1  hail 
to  Bpsiru  t*>  II  tour  in  these  tbe  southern  rp>;ions,  which  I 
had  not  bdore  visited,  thus  completing  the  survey  of  the 
Ulnnil.  I  tnivtllcd  from  Ajitcuio  to  Sartene,  made  an 
cxcunion  into  the  iiiounlaina  at  S".  Lucia  di  Tallano,  siiil 
then  pursued  the  joumey  from  Sartene  In  itoiiiruvio,Aiid  I'rom 
tlu'tioc  to  Porttf  Vecchio  aiid  to  lljiHtiu  hy  the  eiioteru  toast. 

Kvery  mile  of  the  road  from  jVJ'**=^'<^  to  Sartene  ia 
beautiful  in  the  ext^vme.  Tlio  Buniliteio  dili-^ncc,  lFtiviii<; 
AjiKX-io  e^vly  in  tho  muroin^,  reiuiheit  Surtiine  t»  tho 
eretiiDf^,  where  un  inn  is  found  ut  wliieti  tlie  night  may  he 
passed  witit  tt>lerahle  oomrort. 

Oranit«  biittreGses  continue  to  strike  oat  from  the 
central  chain  to  the  vreKtvrn  «ea,  cnclo!(in<;  lov«ly  vidleyx; 
thiia  the  coadt  roud  is  a  ]ierpQtual  ai^cent  and  dencent. 
AVIieii  it  has  luhoiiously  uaeendi-d  one  of  these  granite 
q>ur«,  it  immcdiati'ly  diitiundN,  a  hmwhn;;  alpine  river  is 
croMcd  at  the  liutlum  uf  thi>  valley,  and  then  it  a|j:aiH 
uoends  the  next  buttret<3.  The  road  has  been  made  within 
tho  last  few  yuara,  at  iinmeuee  expense  and  troubti.-,  by 
l)lii*ti»g  and  euttin^  a  kind  of  »bcir  or  ti-rntue  in  tlie  sido 
of  tbe  wouiitaiii,  uKernately  tbrouirh  solid  granite,  cuui- 
pnct  (^anitic  sandrluiie,  and  loose  (granitic  gravel. 

Ouing  to  the  avvnt  depth  tif  the  GuCtin<^  ibiw  made  on 
the  inner  or  mountain  tiide  of  the  road,  the  uliaroeler  of 
tbe  root  voffetation  is  very  elearly  revealed  at  every  titvp, 
and  Hi.'me  instructive  fai-la  nro  brought  to  liirht.  'ihuet  tlie 
vtsnroiis  growtii  ol  the  ohruW  on  thv  Hanks  of  mounLiins, 
baked  by  a  suuthum  sun  during  a  loii|;  vumnier,  with  little 
or  no  summer  rain,  is  explained  by  the  ien-;tb  and  stn^u^rth 
of  their  long  fibrous  root*.  They  descend  right  Ihrougti 
coiapDct  gravel  or  mind,  through  crevioM  and  faults  in  the 
sandstone  or  j^ianite  rouks,  imperceptible  to  tbe  eye,  lo  it 
depth  of  two,  lour,  six,  or  more  Kt-t.  In  many  instauoes 
they  appear  to  pierce  tbe  very  ruck  ilwlf,  and  thus  it  is,  no 
doubt,  that  they  find  tbe  rouinture  ueces&try  to  their 
existence. 

0  0 


386 


CORSICA. 


liVe  Bee  Die  mme  fealnre  in  root  derelnpmenlii  in  nnrl^ 
(tixtricts  nt  home,  whtn  recently  opened  out  bv  n  miltvay 
euttinjr.  Till'  rod*  of  the  common  Hrak--  Kern,  thr  Ptrns 
tqiiilina,  nnil  of  (he  (Enrsr  iiml  llmthcr,  (Wiviiil  to  u  Kir-at 
(1<-|ith  below  the  surfaee.  ily  ynrtlen  in  Surrey  is  of  this 
ohurncU-r,  im  nricl  saml,  ami  1  Rnd  few  or  no  plsntii  Rouriiih 
in  it,  unl4>M  Ihoy  hiiw  hiii}>  IthroiK  or  "  tD]v"  looti*  («tich  ii» 
I^schscholtzia),  whieh  ran  go  down  all  but  any  dejilh  for 
irotetuiv  una  nourishment.  The  liesvy  nutumnul  and 
fpnti);  I'liinii,  pcni'tratini;  divply  into  the  iioil  ami  into  th<> 
erovices  and  craekH  of  the  ('omiiim  rocks,  provide  inoiNtnre 
to  plnnts  eTcn  during  the  protracted  aroii<fhlp  of  tho 
sonthiM'n  oiimmcr.  Where  no  rain  falU  nt  any  tinvo  of  th« 
Tear,  tm  in  somt*  pari*  of  thr  eoiiit  of  Pent,  there  IE  suii)  to 
lie  no  opontaneons  vegetation  whatever.  The  ul«oluta 
neiviiMity  of  heavy  winter  min«,  even  in  a  <lry  climate  »uch 
as  Unit  of  the  Homh  of  Kiii-opc,  to  cnnbli-  crops  to  be  raised 
and  fniit  trewi  to  prodnc*  fniit,  i*  jlhistrated  by  delicjcnt 
hnrveslit  after  winter  drought.  If  the  winter  r:iin"  are 
miieh  hi'low  the  averajje,  the  min  does  not  prnrtriilo  much 
bilow  thy  Knrfaoe,  to  that  the  rool»  of  the  Olive  and 
Orange  trem,  whivti  dtwccnd  rather  deep,  are  not  tnoist^ned. 
When  this  occtin)  tho  treea  live,  but  do  fruit  crop  is  pi»- 
dnced  the  foUowin;;  autumn. 

I  fimml  gTftit  iinxioty  exprcKted  in  Contea  on  this  ocou 
sion  about  rain,  the  winter  having  been  a  very  dry  one. 
It  was  (jonernlly  »lated  that  if  the  rain  diil  not  coftic 
within  n  rortni;;ht,  and  ruin  oannot  lie  depcndi-d  upon  at 
this  Ma»ou  of  the  year,  the  cro]>s  wouhl  he  aerionslv  oom- 
promtoed.  Althongh  one-eif^ith  of  tlie  island  u  Ktill 
cijveTvd  with  primeval  formt^,  the  qoeiiti'in  is  cvorywhere 
diiu-tiitHL*(l  a*  to  whether  the  mountain  sides  in  oecoHsihle 
plaees  have  not  been  too  frwly  olcarcd  of  their  timber. 
I'he  clwiranw  of  forest  Und  in  France  is  (jt-iuTally  acknow. 
leil{;i-d,  by  all  cuntpetent  anthorittos,  to  be  the  prineipal 
cnuMe  of  t)ie  difns'ronu  drought*  in  the  southern  provinces, 
as  well  as  of  the  constant  inundations  of  all  the  largo 
riT<-ni.  The  t'rench  Government  is  therefore  taking  active 
Bivaiuree  to  have  the  mountaiii  sidea  replanted.    At  Ajaccio 


THE  CTCLASfEN — A  COBSICAN  BIVER.       387 


T  Iieai^  tliat  hundreds  of  saeka  of  the  eeeda  of  tlic  noble 
Corsican  I'liuis  Lanx  an;  aiinuully  oKported  to  tlio  Conti- 
nent for  that  purpiac. 

Ill  April  ill  Ciimicji  th*  roadside  in  tlie  valleys,  especially 
iin<ler  Chestnut  trees,  ns  1  have  etated,  ia  euanicllcd  with 
,  the  piirplu  CydameD.  It«  lovely  lloweiv  are  «<.-un  in  uh 
pgreat  profiiaioii  m»  Dnieivs  with  us  in  the  re^ioiia  whei'e 
the  Hoil  ii  consenial.  On  trying  to  aet  up  Home  htill« 
with  n  [>OL-ket- knife,  I  found  tlist  they  ux-re  i^'ticmlly 
eo  deeply  emla-ddo<l  na  to  be  noiirly  nnattiiintilile,  a 
foot  or  Hiore  deL-|>.  Willi  iia  the  Cyebmen  is  ii8ii;illy 
plaoted  at  the  top  of  the  pot,  but  this  mode  of  uitltivahun 
IS  evidently  not  neceasary,  at  Nature  doc«  not  fvlluiv  il. 
In  the  wild  state  the  bulb  '*»  covered  t>y  Kum-eMive  liiyera 
of  dead  Icavest,  and  thuH  becomes  deejily  buried.  I  believe 
that  planted  in  rich,  litrbt  Boil,  a  foot  Irom  the  enrface,  in 
our  ijiird«n«,  it  wyiihi  eveupc  winter  frxMt,  prove  hardy,  and 
be  u  threat  ornaniitnt  in  early  summer. 

Thv  next  morning  my  future  host,  M.  Giacomnni,  Mayor 
of  S".  Liieia  di  Tulhno,  with  whom  1  had  promi-^iKl  Id 
spend  a  fe<v  daya  in  his  mountwn  home,  iirriveJ  before 
1  viA<  up.  A'ter  partakin};  of  a  capital  hreakfaft,  we 
atftrted  in  a  kind  of  light  spring  cart,  drawn  by  two  wild 
(  ifrElcitn  ponic*.  Tht^y  rattled  down  the  hill  on  which 
Sarten>>  in  placcl  in  line  Ktyle,  and  we  »oun  rvuehed  thu 
lower  part  of  a  valley,  crossed  the  night  before  in  thu  dili- 
fcenoe^  we  had  to  ascend  this  valley  to  r«acli  our  d<'8ttnu< 
tion.  In  the  centre  nf  the  valley  wna  a  lovely  little  river, 
about  flirty  feet  broad,  and  on  ench  side  sinilin;;  t^rnss 
meadows,  and,  oecasionally,  cullivati^l  lielibi,  with  Willows 
and  other  trw«  on  the  marifin.  It  looked  like  ^  pretty 
bit  of  river  KCrnery  in  England,  and  I  could  scarcely 
believe  my  eoin|ianion  when  he  told  in<>  LlinL  the  <li«trict 
was  so  deadly  in  mininter,  that  no  one  could  live  or  work 
tlii^re  alW  June  on  account  of  malaria,  without  risking 
Hfe.  Some  yean  ago  some  Kreiteh  ngrienltiirisle  from 
the  Cuntincnt  aaw  thia  sindin;;  vallev,  and,  uppreajtiiij; 
tlie  depth  and  gnodneM  of  the  »oil,  ami  its  email  jwcmiiary 
vbIucj  bought  an  estate.    Then,  laughing  nt  the  fe-in)  uf 

c  v2 


388 


OOltetCA. 


tlic  Corsican  peasantry,  lliev  Imill  a  liniiRc  nnfl  liotran  ttllinj? 
uml  |)]Hiitii>t;  an  iit  the  uorlh.  'nieynll  jjot  lever,  iitiw ever, 
and  th«y  all  ilit-d  iti  Icm  tlmti  Iwo  years! 

Whi'ii  no  niuolicd  an  Huvution  of  300  reel  by  the  liaro* 
meter,  M.  (jiacunmni  liirnini;  round,  hIiowpcI  me  a  tnill- 
lioncc,  and  »iiii],  "  Now  we  are  ont  oT  tlie  malaria  region, 
])Oi)|i)i>  i-ari  ami  ila  Uv«  nil  tlic  your  ii)  tliat  houne." 

lleretve  huil  nn<illii-r  travt-1Un|r  incident  wurlh  narrating 
as  illustrative  of  the  Cunicaii  chanitter.  Some  6ii:;lit  altera- 
tion wsM  nqiiired  to  the  l)iirne¥!|,  nml  we  Itotli  ^t  out. 
'I'liking  uilvaiiUigic!  nt'  a  iiioinoiit'^  liln-rty,  thv  poiiic-K  Ixill^d, 
and  were  soon  out  of  si^lit,  Ivuvitiij;  iia  Mauding  in  the  mad, 
much  to  the  cha!>rin  of  my  ho&t.  There  was  notliintf  for  it 
but  to  walk  on  in  tliv  hliixinif  fun,  with  tliC  )>roKjii-et  of 
havtiiif  ta  Hiiitih  our  jnuriR'y,  xomo  t«n  niilen,  on  foot.  We 
had  Hot,  howi-ver,  ^one  very  fur  when  we  met,  coming 
towiirdi'  Its.  two  CorwiMin  -iK-phcrds,  mounlcd  on  (.hnjiey 
littk-  puiiii'K.  My  fiicnd,  who  did  nut  si-em  to  t-njoy  the 
walk  091  miieh  im  1  did,  nuked  lho>c  men  to  lend  u*  tltvir 
HtecdH,  which  ttiey  clievrlidly.did,  no  we  mounted  ttiumph- 
antly,  whilst  they  trudged  quietly  by  our  side,  tidUing  in 

fiutois  to  M.  Giac-omoni.  Two  <ir  three  mitrs  lurtUrr  on  we 
lud  the  Kiiti^factton  of  Ki'eiti<f  tlm  mniii|re  unit  putii«i  uD- 
tiiimiiifcil  in  the  hniid^  of  a  peamiit.  They  had  continued 
lit  full  gallop  until  tiiey  reached  ■  sleep  acchvily.  Then 
tht'V  p^luvkeniil  tliiir  speed,  and  tlie  pcnmtnl  ein-int;  thom 
witli'mi  diiver,  blop|>ed  them,  Un  ^ttin<r  olFour  poniw  I 
thunked  the  owners,  and  oirered  one  of  them  a  ^ratnity. 
With  ]i  smiie  he  push<?d  my  hand  iwide,  saying,  "  No,  eir ; 
a  CorHteun  doi-x  not  receive  n  graltiity  for  a  «mall  si-rvico 
rendered.  If  you  were  to  olTer  me  fifty  thousand  fi-anes 
vou  mJuht  tempt  me,  but  1  do  not  want  live;  1  hud  riitlier 
have  your  thanks."  To  ciieli  reuKuniu};  ihoie  wim  nothing 
to  be  answered. 

Orudnally  the  road  became  more  moantainons,  and  (fae 
little  river  asanmed  more  and  more  the  chanielcr  of  au 
nipine  Iruut  sirenm.  Still  cultivation  and  fertility  followed 
our  track.  .\t  ladt,  afler  a  four  huum'  drive,  we  reui'lied 
our  dcKtinatiou.  I  waf  most  cordially  received  hy  three 
v«rj  cliainjiot;  ladies,  the  wile  and  daughtois  of  my  host. 


m 


B'*.    LCCIA  DI  TALLANO — 8ARTENE. 


389 


Witl)  them  I  rcmuined  serenl  days,  (freatly  etyoyiof;  their 
genUe  rvtlned  oontpunionship,  listeiuu;;  to  tlio  nnnats  of  rhis 
mtio  vitlj;fe  loat  in  the  moiintMinsor  Ci>i>iat.  To  my  young 
liidy  friouds  SiirU-tn;  wiw  ilic  great  town,  where  Uiey  hiia 
heoii  tci  school,  where  Ihe  shops  were.  None  of  the  family 
had  been  out  of  ilie  iaiand,  ana  llici  Indii-s  hnil  not  even  bwn 
to  Ajiiccio  or  Biiiitia;  thoy  were  too  fur  oft'i  Tliun  the 
mayor  imd  I  used  to  luljuurn  to  the  villu>;e  ami  talk  public 
iiiatt«ra  with  some  of  the  wise  men,  with  old  wiirrion, 
pensiouera  of  the  French  urmy,  (»)mc  to  end  their  dxys  in 
Llmir  native  village,  on  the  saiM  piltanai  allowed  them. 
The  Coi'HiennH  are  wry  ]iartial  to  the  army.  Ic  is  snid  that 
there  are  now  more  than  a  thousand  CorHican  oHlueri  in 
iho  French  army,  and  tb«  Unvn*  and  villiigcji  of  Oorsic-ii  itre 
full  of  old  M)Idicm  come  buck  tu  dit^  in  tlicir  native  moun- 
tains. My  visit  wa<  ijuile  a  pnbliu  event.  No  Kn>;litthman, 
I  wne  told,  had  been  at  Tdliano  for  a  hundred  yrani — Hinoe 
4  the  dnyauf  Paoli,  beforo  tbi;  French  nnni-xatioii — so  curiouM 
bnt  fneriilly  (jlancc!"  followed  rae  evi-rywhore. 

At  this  lime  ol  the  yeur  S".  Lucia  di  TaJluno  wati »  tittle 
earthly  p.irudiAu.  It  is  situutid  at  the  liMd  of  a  smiling 
viilky,  UIDO  fuel  aljovc  the  Irvul  ot  th«  «rB,  in  a  re^^on 
wbirfc  the  uiiliitm,  tin*  Potaito  (liHi-iise,  the  itilkworni  ditioaw, 
eboU-iQ,  and  thu  summur  fuverK  "f  the  lower  regions,  idl  aru 
(■(pialiy  unknown.  It  looka  directly  to  the  south  towards 
the  Kilt,  which  is  conoealcd  froni  thu  iiii>ht  by  m  ouast  rAnge 
of  hi^d)  mountain*,  and  ii>  pndeeleil  Irom  the  north  by  a 
scniicircle  of  muuntaiiin.  Tbv  Vimi,  uerealx  of  all  «ort«, 
Grasses,  natural  and  artiliciul,  and  every  kind  of  fiuit  Irvu, 
ItonriKh  in  abundance  in  the  riulisoil  formed  by  t  lie  breaking 
np  »f  the  grnnite  rucks.  Thu  cxlrvme  luxuriance  of  fruit 
1ree«,  and  ii(|ieoia)ly  of  Almond,  i*eauh,  and  Apricot  tneus 
on  the  Oenoetic  Iliviem,  proves  to  demonatralion  tliaC  clmlk 
and  lime  suit  their  constitution,  inasmuch  as  that  soil  is  a 
mere  bn-ak-uj)  of  tim<«tono  roekK:  but  their  equal  hixuriiince 
on  tliis  sod — a  granilio  mioaoeoua  suhist.  mixed  with  voife- 
tiible  matter — iilso  shows  thiit  they  tind  in  it  all  the  clc- 
I  nienljt  of  nutrition,     On  «ach  sidv  of  the  valley,  tm   the 

I         higher  mouiitaiu  sidi»,  the  Ilex,  or  evergreen  Oak,  cliniliM 
I  towards  the  sky  iu  serried  ranks.     This  Irxto  is  one  of  the 


990 


OOBSICA. 


principal  v%t;tttiil>Ie  proJticU  of  llic  iftlntid,  and  almiv  coi 
stitiiUr  miiiiy  (ifUie  ttmallrr  foreeta.  When  growing  in  tli 
IvniT  rr(;iiiii  of  viilli-ye,  in  deep  soi),  it  nssiinii'S  a  liirg«  six 
Hiid  iiiiit  mtich  ol'  tlic  (lignifiod  eliiLrtKiUT  of  our  comma 
Oak,  only  llie  f'uiiuge  U  monj  jiombn;  and  dcii!*er.  The 
wood  is  not  much  esteemed,  iotlin({  enrly,  so  that  it  is 
principally  iu4>d  for  miikiii;r  vhaicoal. 

A  gr«iit  deal  of  tliv  lund  nrouiid   iit  (>lant«d  with  vinMfj 
and   under  the  intcHigeut  mana}{cmeut  of  M.  Oiavomoniil 
the  lar^»t  propriclor  i>f  the  district,  these  vinra  ore  made' 
to   prodiiie  iin  exeelK-nt  wint.- — Uic  Vin  de  l^dUiiio.      W-ry 
likeamiufurlifiud  puvt,  it  improves  yeur  hy  yi-ur  hy  keeping, 
and  U'ith  ii-^u  bt'conti's  a  superior  wiiie.     At  the  outlet  of 
this  fiTlilu  valley,  cumprUt^d   hi-twevii  tivo  eptirt  of  the 
mRiititaiii,  there  im  a  Utile  port  CiilK-d   I'rupuino,  fflteuoe  it* 
products  resich  AJHeoio  mid  the  mainland. 

Oh  returniut;  to  Snrtene  I  took  up  my  quirtere  at  tlia 
inn,  hind  a  species  of  ^iif  to  Inke  me  tho  next  day  to  BonU 
fuei'i,  lilty-six  inile«,  iind  then  iwl  oLit  to  explore-  tliv  pla*:*! 
lliiit  wtiK  soon  Hvciimplii'luHl.  Sartentt  in  a  iiniiill  iiiUlit 
town  like  Carle,  iit  the  ui-xt  l>a»e  of  the  southern  ceoti 
mountains,  and  ia  separated  from  the  wenteru  »c»  by  wiolbc 
ridffe.  Id  olden  timt-s  it  n-ae  K<-'t)ernlly  in  thi;  hanils  of  the 
national  pnrty.  nnd  is  still  inhabiU-d  by  some  of  the  olde 
('onticuin  lamiliei.  Like  C'ort«,  it  ia  un  unpreposseMii: 
pliiutf,  a  kind  of  overgrown  villn;^,  with  some  evidence  < 
recent  prosperity  and  pro(;rcs»  in  llie  ahopo  of  new  l;ili  l)v< 
Bl^fHed  French  house*,  very  unsuitable  for  »  hot  xunitiier 
climate.  The  iV.,>neh  do  nut  «eein  to  know  lielter  tluin  tv. 
build  lall  Parisian  six-storit-d  houses,  all  nindoits,  whervvi 
tbvy  go.  Thus  I  found  at  Algiers  nnd  at  Omn  aII  Hit 
modern  Iioum-m  built  in  thin  alylv.  Such  houitoi  roust  be 
»imply  nnbi-arubU-  in  xiiUry  weather. 

The  ueulher  «a«  heavenly,  the  road  cncliantinj;;,  and  til 
country  one  mas*  ol  tbn  sprin;^  llowvro  of  saudi>toni-  fitrmn- 
tions  The  road,  a  wry  i;ood  one,  winds  in  and  out,  up  hill 
nnd  down  dale,  nl\Mi  voinin);  near  the  sea,  then  leceding 
from  it,  with  rucks  or  billH  intcrvenint;,  with  the  i;rauit 
moiintaina  to  t)i«  «itst.  As  wc  approached  the  m>uther 
extremity  of  the  tsLuid  I  waa  mom  and  uioni  struvk  by  Lb 


BONIFACIO— ITS   MARINE  CAVEa 


391 


concUiaive  eviilenoe  on  all  sides  of  ;>laciul  tut  well  im  of  mite* 
ccdviit  vuluiDiu  uutioii.  The  ^^nlic  rucksi  vteiu  lorn,  iwistud, 
unil  bixiki'ii  iiiUi  every  unm-nivable  alia[i»,  but  iirominL'iit 
abovi!  all  wvk  ;;fiitiite  bouMern  of  all  biki^s,  iinmunKC  bloi-I<H 
as  well  as  siiiaill  ones,  lyin^,  in  vvi-ry  diivclioit,  otiu  on  tlie 
other,  in  imlvxiiribiible  coiifiiKimi.  Kvuhiiitly  tlicy  liad  been 
Jni]i|<ed  by  tfliiuietsal  tlii«t)ieexlreinily  ul' tlio  };Teut(M)iitr;il 
gmnite  chain  ol'Comcn.  At  last  th«r<;  was  iitftbiu>>;  lull  of 
tliv  vmitriil  laoutitAina  but  uofil'uNoi  f^rouju  uF  ihvie  boulders, 
some  of  wbiob  agipeared  tu  have  I'ueii  purpoeoly  Hroppud 
"by  band"  on  otJK-ts  bi^r  in  faize;  likv  a  [uiviD{;-stoiiu 
griitly  di'lwsiti'd  on  a  table. 

^^'c  stopped  to  rust  at  midday  for  a  cou))l«  of  liotin  ut  a 
sliud  OH  lliL*  tt>udi<idii  wbtTO  huruw  arc  kvpl  fur  lliedili^^viiiu. 
It  u'ub  in  tlie  very  mitbit  ul  this  boulder  drill,  aud  a  cjrff'nl 
CxiiDi illation  of  a  considi-rablo  ureu  cviiviiiui.'d  nut  Unit  :iU 
otbt-r  physical  fuut  but  glacial  aotii>u  eould  ucQimiit  lor  what 
I  savir.  jio  doubt,  ill  llio  ^bciul  jK-noJ,  ^bciere  vst^ndctl 
all  down  Corsica,  aiid  this  would  he  Ihe  ration  wh«rc  tbcy 
would  i-nd  aixl  iotm  a  "  morjiiiif." 

A  liltJe  bdlorfi  ivovhin^  Itoiiiluciu  tbe  frraiiito  roninitioti 
oeaces,  and  the  roi'kn  bm^uiuu  turtiary, ci-etdoeoue.  Bunirnoiv 
ia  a  rortiBed  town  ocoupyiut;  a  prutnoiitory,  the  sidv«  of] 
wbiob  towards  the  sua  urv  precipitous  and  stit^hlly  I'xcu- 
vuted  by  the  waves,  so  thai  it  all  but  ovvrlian}p>  the  St/uits 
at  an  elovatioa  ol'  one  hundred  aud  tiHy  I'eet.  It  is  a  mere 
lui't^  fortified  villaj.^e,  with  uarrow  ptiet-'ts,  lar^^o  btirruoUM, 
and  II  villanuuK  iuii.  1  was  vory  ooidiiilly  rt-coivi-d  by  )t. 
Munti:pu<fuiii),  the  iiuiyor,  a  weil-iulunn'^l  i>by*iciuu,  and 
by  .M.  PiruB,  the  jud^,  frieuds  of  A1.  l:^oul(l^i  of  Uastia. 
TliiTsu  j>eiitlvniuD  pbced  themselves  st  my  disjiosul,  and 
took  me  tu  a  boat  to  see  some  splendid  vavcrnN  in  tlie 
oulcan-ouw  rocks,  like  cliurvhf«.  Here  tbe  iloiiitaciuiia, 
during;  the  heat  of  summer,  tiab,  pteniu,  and  buthe,  ullcO 
iiptrmling  the  fiiUrc  day  enjuvin^  the  coolness  and  IreshneM 
ol  ibcuc  tiiarind  nlrcut#.  1  hey  iiUo  look  me  to  a  pretty 
convent  or  heruiit^^e  in  the  ruck«  two  miles  I'rom  the  town, 
ubcre  a  Itcuedictine  monk  lives  in  a  glorious  solitude,  the 
picturetquc  h«auty  of  which  I  do  not  think  lie  fully  appro- 
ciateH,  from  hia  respoiuw  to  some  ntnarksuf  mineauoul  th« 


I 

I 


092 


COBSICA. 


naginificent  view  nntl  tliu  piotiirosque  rocks  whiclt  eutront 
him.  He,  luaentin-;,  (rsjiluincil  that  th«y  M  KticUered  hi 
fptrden  that  be  could  frraw  cabbn^eR  all  mmin«r.  M.  I^nw, 
my  bmit,  wbo  bad  roopnlly  purchased  a  large  extent  of  tlie 
"  miMjiiin,"  tliroufih  whidi  we  |tas«C()  on  our  way  to  the 
bi-miiUi^i-,  ivuM  fill]  of  pliinu  for  ils  rcdiinptioDi  The  great 
(liHii-iilty  be  said  wa.^  tlii;  labour  question. 

i'bc  Uonifacian^,  however  ])oar,  have  preeerved  the  habit 
of  their  anorHlora  when  th«  town  wiis  a  rnrtified  city,  oAeo 
hcvie^'d.  Tb(^y  live  inKid«,  keLi>  donkey*,  and  ride  ont  in 
work  in  the  oounlry,  everv  niornin(f.  Thts  destroys  all 
ilil(!r<>>!t  in  tlicir  labours,  malcps  them  idle  and  ever  ready  to 
shirk  work,  to  remiiiii  in  ttie  tow^l  t.luit  tliey  may  driiik_ 
and  tifMsip  with  their  wives.  The  Isilter  (imi  l\u-  fliiUlrvn/ 
on  tliig  ByBtcm,  brin^  notbinff  to  tbe  comraon  fund,  auiT 
acquire  habit*  of  idleness  difficult  to  vradicnte. 

1  was  anxiouN  to  py  Gnribuldi  n  visit  nt  Cnprem, 
tbe  other  side  of  the  Struils,  and  my  new  allies  pli 
Ibe  government  cutter  nt  my  disposul  for  tbe  oniiae.  I7n« 
rortunately  there  wns  a  desn!  calm,  and  after  waiting 
twonty-l'our  hours  for  wind,  1  wne  rcbictuntly  obliged  to 
give  up  nil  idea  of  tbe  intended  cxairaion,  to  take  leiive  of_ 
iny  ho«pitnblo  friend»,  and  to  embark  in  Ibe  diliffenct' 
Uastia  by  the  eastern  ootist.  This  journey  taken  twentyi? 
four  hours,  n  ni^bt  and  dtiy,  but  1  divided  it.  I  had  an 
introdndiou  to  Dr.  Tiiveru,  the  head  physician  to  the 
penitentiary  of  Cnsniiiundu,  a  little  more  than  half-way, 
who  cave  mc  a  bed  and  n  IV:iternal  reception,  Bud  I  was 
thus  ounhlcsl  to  iMi!H|ie  tbe  ni^lit  travelling. 

Tbe  road  to  ]la»tia  from  liouifucio  is  a  «hora  road  that 
skirts  the  entire  oustem  owiat  of  Corsica,  from  south 
norlh,  and  seldom  lows  sii;ht  of  the  sea.  For  the  fir 
few  miltf!  out  of  Itoitifneio  the  ohalky  ttoi\  eonlinnes,  then 
ihe  gi-uuite,  sundHlone.  and  i;ravel  mukc  their  uppniranMf^ 
nnil  Mitb  tliem  the  brusliwood,  or  maquis,  C:«tua,  Cvti»us, 
Lentifctia,  Dwnrl'  Ilex.  I  wns  on  the  impriiil  or  top  of 
tbtf  dilij^-nee  lor  the  vieiw,  sittin^r  iu>xt  to  the  conductor, 
who  bud  n  ^nn  at  his  side.  It  wax,  ho  said,  in  order 
take  a  shot  nt  aiiv  ([umo  that  mi|;hl  chance  to  orosa  It 
road.     In  winter  he  often  bng);ed  tuin«,  birds,  and  soma 


PORTO  ^TJOCHIO— CASABIANDA, 


893 


Uncs  wild  lioar*.  Two  of  the  IaU«r  aetiinlly  croMwd  tha 
rood,  Iiut  at  tao  great  a  diatanco  to  allow  ol'  his  showitiff 
hifl  ebill.  On  tin?  rond  from  Snrtene  to  Itoniriicio,  w«  hild  i 
timvellcd  all  day  without  inui-ttnt;  a  singlv  cnrriugu  or  cart> 
and  uot  n  doKi-n  pedentrinnx.  It  wiut  pretty  inucli  tha 
same  on  the  eastero  road.  The  oouotry  was  lovely,  smiling 
with  natiira's  gifts,  l>ut  as  to  inhabitants,  they  were  tew 
and  far  between. 

Purto  Vecohio  wna  reached  in  a  few  hours.  It  is  at  the 
kottom  of  a  Rne  bay,  and  in  olden,  dasaicnl  timoi*,  wiis  a 
seaport  of  some  iinporlaiicu.  Now  it  io  a  mcru  villain,  the 
oeiitre,  howeviT,  of  an  extensive  didriet.  On  th«  land 
side  it  is  surnninded  by  roarsWti,  which  make  it  so  un- 
hvulthy,  that  iti  summer  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  go  up 
Ui  tlie  mountains.  Thusc  who  remain  to  keep  houi^',  all 
but  invariably  get  fever ;  it  i»  the  penalty  llioy  pay  for 
takin<>  care  of  the  town. 

Siion  ufVr  leavin>;  Porto  Vocehio,  we  entered  upon  tlic 
fiTlili',  prudtictive,  oalcitreous  pliiins  which  lie  at  tlie  foot  of 
the  eaMtera  oretocooiis  niountainH.  The  vejiretation  waa 
that  of  rich  alluvial  meadow-land  in  Kn:;Und,  and  it  was ' 
diflieiilt  to  believe  tluit  we  were  passing  throuj^h  a  distnet 
BO  maUrioua,  as  to  be  all  hut  uniiiliabiliible  during  the 
sutntner  montUs.  llut  the  jutueity  of  villai^Mi  and  of  ia- 
habited  bouses  alon;;  ibe  road  wun  very  si^oiliealive,  as  was,  I 
on  iIk'  oilier  band,  the  presence  of  numerous  villagtv  OB 
thr  Olive-eUd  mountain  to  the  west. 

I  arrived  ut  the  penitentiary  of  Casabianda  lalo  in  tlie 
evenini;,  and  was  not  sorry  to  see  the  diligence  move  on, 
whilst  I  was  to  enjoy  tlio  hospitality  and  companionship  of 
one  whom  I  knew  to  be  an  intellectual  Cor-'ioiin  pbysidim. 
Dr.  Tavera  is  one  of  those  pioneers  of  nouial  pr»i;iv-s9  and 
civilization  of  whose  devot«d  and  enthusiaBtie  Idv^uiv  the 
worbl  knows  little.  At  the  be.id  of  the  pniit^-nliary,  in 
whieh  are  conliiKnl  a  thtitiMtnd  eriminaU  of  the  UKist  daii'i 
l^riJuH  t'lass,  his  diflii-utt  but  praisewurlhy  taiik  is  to  rcclaica 
tlieni,  and  to  aocomplish  Ibis  arduous  undert^kin-;,  by 
comiuennif  potilenee  and  disiiise,  aixl  by  takiiii*  tliexlinf^ 
out  of  fair  nature  run  riot.  I  bad  ii  long  oonverKition  witli 
the  doctor  that  night  and  the  next  day  about  his  labours 


coasicA. 

ati<l  uWiit  miilarui  and  Twer  in  Conia,  and  bia  cx|»cric»c 
cuiiUrmod  my  |ir«vi()ii»  uonvivUont. 

As  I  liiive  «ln-aily  nt^twl  {\t»fpe  375),  »u  tbe  authority  of 
my  rrioud  Dr.  Uoudas,  aud  otbers,  it  is  an  uiidcniiible 
fiict,  thitt  in  vrnrm  vlitniitcs  inU-nnittint  itnd  TvinilU-iil 
feViTH  niiiy  occur  wlivro  tlu-re  iirc  iiv  manili«!t,  u  a  uwre 
result  i>t' a  chill  in  an  «r|niii>aliou  weakeiMd  by  inteon 
und  protracted  beat.  It  is  pussiblb  that  sovh  cbills  may 
\k'  lliv  priucijial  ur  sole  tmasQ  of  tJnee  fuven,  c«vn  in  low, 
du>n|>,  rqiiilc'd  iiinlnriouH  rei^ioiiM.  Such,  itideuJ,  ia  tii« 
oiiilLioD  ol  II  very  i-uli^lilontKl  l-'runvb  aulbor,  Dr.  Annund, 
wlm  WHS  niuny  jears  with  tlw  Proncb  army  in  AlE;vrui 
snd  liHM  wTitlvri  a  ind«t  valiwblo  work  on  th«  cUuiiiu-  und 
dtseuMS  vl'  tbAt  (.-ouiitry,  to  wtiicb  I  nhall  have  ocvaaiou  to 
rvfiT  when  draoribin);  inv  own  Alffvriaa  eX)>eni>iHHW.  Tbi* 
oiiinion  biu  b«ea  very  ably  §up))orted  by  Mr.  Oldhain 
the  Iiidiiin  army  in  ii  vrork  |>ubli«b«l  in  lISTl,  enr.itl 
'■  Wbiit  in  .Malaria  ?"  He  prove*,  moat  convim-intfly,! 
thut  in  India,  an  we  have  neon  to  be  the  case  iti  tbe  Br!t£il 
in  Al;^riii,  in  Coraii-a,  and  eUewhere,  walaiious  levers 
bv  ^eiii'iatid  without  tbe  eultVrer  beinjf  exposed  10  mar 
n)iu«niula,  by  mere  chill  alter  inlvntio  hcut. 

Still  the  liict  remains  that  lour-lyinji;,  damp,  ewampjr 
ro|pons  in  Iropica),  aemi-trupicsl,  aud  even  norlhem 
countriw,  are  »o  decimates!  by  tbeaa  fevers  tluit  the  exist- 
rnce  ot  It  nmbria  |M>i«un  bus  been  univcTHully  admitted 
Ij  the  oiedioul  profenaion.  In  tbe  pmtent  state  ofttcienL-e, 
lbiT>,-rure,  Iho  safest  plan  ia  to  aciept  both  causes  in  Utl 
piudw-tioii  of  maUrioiis  fevers,  manh  p(>iKoD,  anil 
Jollowinfc  intenw  beat,  louj;  endured. 

In  this,   my  Inst  visit  to  Coraica,  my  attention 
mainly   directt^l   to  tbi*  <|uait)on  of   malaria  and   fc 
Having    Ifi-en,    I   think    I    may    «ay,  a    Itauling  agODt 
upc>nitj|f  out  Ci)r>icr:i  to  tbe  invalid  uj>d  tourist  wori^  I  ' 
it  a  duty  lo  clnr  up  Ibu  (picntion  as  liir  us  was  poseil: 
The  mults  at  wbicb  I  have  arrivitl  may  be  embodied  in  i 
lew  u'urdi. 

Wbercvi-r  in  C'uraien   a  river  or  torrent  desnenda 
tlto  uoontuin*  i*r  valltiyN,  and  emptieH  itself  into  the 
tbere  ia  tnaUria,  or   iutcruiitteul  fever,  io    suaimur  an 


MALARIA  FEVER. 


395 


L 


ftiitiimn,  in  the  plains  which  it  wuwrs.  from  the  9«i-lovcl 
to  an  allitiide  V!M')ii);r  Ik'lwi.'en  SOU  uiul  .jOU  Cect.  Tliis  I 
ascertained  witli  the  barometer.  On  asci-niliiit*  tliwo 
viillifjrs,  whtn  the  barometer  indicuteil  iin  cK'viitioii  of  Troiii 
SOlHo  500  foci,  I  w(w  all  but  inviiHulily  lojd,  '-Now  we 
are  mfe ;  ])eo{ili!  cun  live  here  all  the  yeur  round."  In  Uio 
more  malarious  re^^ions  of  these  pUins  I  Ritneratly  found 
that  we  wvcK  only  ii  few  feet  ulxivu  the  seii-luvcl,  and  that 
the  euiintry  wus  iimirly  lliit.  In  Al^erb  thesume  immunity 
does  not  appear  to  be  iociired  by  euth  an  elevation. 
Indeed,  in  AI};oriu  I  found  fever  to  cxift  all  but  cverv- 
wliere  during  the  hejitK  of  eumtner,  which  i>  no  doubt 
much  more  «'illry  than  that  of  Coniea.  lu  Coraici  the 
fever  seta  in  towards  (he  latter  end  of  June,  increusw  in 
inteniEity  until  October,  and  disappears  toward*  the  end 
of  October,  u»  the  days  and  ni<;ht«  bi>erime  colder.  It  is 
often  very  severe,  and  aH-tumes  nccabionuliy  the  poniiciouK 
form.  It  complicates  nearly  all  othei'  discatics  that  occur 
whiUt  il  n-iyii*.  On  Iha  easlern  const,  wiicrc,  an  we  have 
seen,  there  ai«  a  i>erie«  of  m»nh<-M  mid  ponda  through 
vrhich  the  rivers  empty  themselves  into  the  sea,  the  nialuria 
fever  is  more  severe  and  more  fatal  than  elsewhere. 

Ttie  few  vilh-fco  nnii  inoUted  hoiiseit  in  tbene  malarious 
plaina  are  only  inhabited  durin;;  the  cunl  months  of  tho 
year.  By  the  be;-tnnin;{  or  middle  of  July  the  harvest  is 
over,  and  thitn  the  entire  population  aUmdon  their  homes 
and  go  to  the  mounUiius  bi-liind,  there  to  oeuiipy  other 
habitations  at  an  altitude  of  several  thousand  feet,  during 
the  hot  months.  WvlUto-do  people  leave  at  tlie  be^innini; 
(if  June,  ti>  ix'lurn  at  the  end  of  October.  Tho  working 
olasa  leave  when  the  harvest  i*  over  in  July,  and  retura 
early  to  Outober  to  tilt  the  (ground. 

Malarious  fevers  exist  not  only  in  Corsica,  but  in 
Sardinia,  in  Sidly,  and  tn  all  the  Mmliterraoean  inland*,  and 
on  the  mainland,  under  the  same  conditions,  wherever  u 
river  mns  into  the  sea.  It  would  seem  t hut  the  estrv^mu 
prevalenoti  of  intermittoot  on  thvMdliterranrnii  shorei',  at 
the  outteU  of  rivem,  in  a  tvmiwmtv  elimate,  i*  in  a  [freat 
measure  owiu^r  to  the  sea  hoing  all  but  lideU-M.  When 
storms  come,  the  sand  and  shinjjle  are  thrown  up  in  great 


896 


CORSICA. 


masFes  at  tlie  mouths  of  the  Hvcn.  Thera  is  m*  tidal  scon 
US  in  tlie  Atlnnlic,  so  thai  the  waters  ol'  Ihe  river  are  peut 
up,  ihw  batk,  and  givamp  all  the  lowlands,  ealtirntin^  tlicm 
with  moint lire.  Dead  anil  il wjiy in g  vegetable  nialU'r  not 
kdn);  imritii-d  by  tlie  netioii  of  winter  frosto,  U  in  northern 
eoiiiitni-tn,  the  advent  of  the  powerful  summer  eun  produces 
that  Ktnti;  of  Boil  which  gives  nKC  to  a<;iiitih  fevera.  It 
requii'i-K  1U1  u-ar«h  or  pond  to  prodtiei;  malaria;  Home  of  tbe 
ifloet  pestilential  plains  I  saw — pUina  where  human  l»einf{8 
cannot  live  in  siinimer — were  as  healthy,  as  innooeut-hxik' 
iiiji  ill  April  and  Muy  as  the  banks  of  the  Trent  or  of  ibe 
Thatneri.  It  really  uppean  <|uitti  suflieient  to  produce 
a^uiKli  fever  in  a  tropical  country  that  the  land  should 
have  beun  KiMiirateil  with  water,  either  from  rain  or  over- 
flow, in  winter,  that  then.'  slioitid  nut  be  a  good  fall  for 
draina;;e,  and  that  the  July  boat  should  be  reached.  The 
iintives  of  tlietie  eoiintries  kiiutv  this,  and  act  aecor<liii;i;ly ; 
tut  Dorthorners  do  not,  ar.d  ai-o  often  diHicult  to  convince, 
to  ibeir  own  destruction.  They  cannot  believe  that  a 
smiling  t^ornfu-ld  by  thi^  side  <tl'  a  pure  running  atmam, 
euch  an  tbi-y  have  iislied  in  and  balJied  in  day  aHer  day  io 
tlu-ir  youth,  during  millry  August  weather  at  home,  can 
pon°ibly  Iw  tn  these  oounlriea  pestilential— a  jilaoe  to  fly 
from  UK  ftonn  a*  ^ring  'v>  ovim-.  Thoy  luiigb  at  sueh  re|>orts. 
They  think  tbe  naliviw  faint-bearled,  lany  cravens,  and  gu 
aUiut  their  work  ai>  at  liouie,  to  sicken  and  die  in  ii  year  or 
two.  I  have  already  nKnlioneil  one  hislory  of  this  kiiid^ 
but  I  hat  of  Ihv  (JaMibianda  penitentiary  ia  still  mo 
rvmarU&hle. 

(?uxab!anda  i*  an  agriciiltnnd  colony  of  convicts,  founil 
by  the  Fi'eneh  Uoverninent  in  ISGt,  in  order  to  diai» 
rpclaim  some  of  the  ponds   and   swamps   of  the 
coast.     Unfortunately  the  Government  gave  the  iirst 
pointmcnt  of  direi-tor  t"  a  cK-ver  <'nerg>;tic  olTleer,  liub  ' 
noiliieniev,  who  knew  nothing  of  Corsica  or  of  il^  fv 
He  tiiuiight  »11  he  heard  nonsense ;  that  the  fever  was  tl 
result  of  the  men  working  in  the  heal  of  tbc  day  und  being 
ludly  fed.     So  be  hud  the  convicts  up  before  daylight,  tii 
made  tbcm  work   nt   the   drainage   in  **  Iho  eool  of  tl 
morning."     Then  be  had  them  home  iti  the  beat  of  tl 


k 


THE   PEtflTESTURY  OP  CA8ABIANDA.        397 


tlftf  Tor  diiiTivr  nnil  *  aieita,  and  sent  tliem  ont  to  work 
again  in  the  "cool  of  the  evenin<;."  The  loc&l  mtxlicjal 
men  nnd  the  Coreiwini>  itround  him  xtood  nghaat  at  a  plan 
80  coiitrury  to  all  tlitir  ex|)erience.  For  they  wait  until 
thv  nun  liiis  dispersed  early  watery  vapours,  lUid  ri^tiini 
home  befora  Bunwt.  But  lie  wa»  not  to  Ija  persuaded,  re* 
poi-trd  the  meiHcal  men  under  bini  fur  "iusulwrdination," 
and  had  his  own  way.  The  rmuU  may  \k  eneily  fori'told. 
He  loBt  during  two  yi-am  65  per  cent,  of  the  umivii;!?,  or 
8fl6  out  of  the  1000  eiwrh  year.  The  Governmeitt  was 
h»rr<ir-it truck,  and  Vlie  colony  would  have  bedn  ubamloncd 
had  not  the  Htublturn  din-ctor,  nif»t  fortonatfly,  liininelf 
died  of  the  fever,  A  more  rational  man  was  tlii?n  ap- 
pointed, who  allowed  the  mediciit  elatf  free  scope,  and 
overythinjf  was  reversed.  The  men  were  nent  ttf  wovk  ail 
lionr  allcr  Munriao,  and  brought  home  an  hour  before  itutt- 
let.  In  the  fluminer  they  weru  ull  transferred  to  the 
mountains,  and  various  other  preuiu  lions  werv  taken,  with 
Buob  ifood  results  thut  now  the  morUility,  in  the  »me 
conditions  and  locality,  ia  only  34  )H-r  cent.,  or  Sh  ]>ot 
lUOO.  These  details  1  had  fiom  Dr.  Ta vera,  the  preteab  | 
medical  superintendent  of  the  peiiitenti;:ry,  to  whose  ener* 
gfticetfurU  much  of  the  improvement  is  due.  Great  works 
have  been  accomplished  ;  one  or  two  Inrpj  braekish  jionds 
and  swamp«  have  Ik-oo  alrvjidy  drained,  nnd  u  vast  amount 
of  land  reclnimed. 

It  KreniH  incredible  thai  such  {>ervcr«e  stuh born n ess  on 
the  piirt  of  ottieialn  in  authority  should  exist,  and  that 
masses  of  human  bi-iugx  should  be  shoiildei'ed  into  eternity 
throtijrh  thejr  blind  opposition  to  prolnuiotial  knowledge. 
Hut  similar  eircumstanceB  are  cmnstantly  oicurring.  ThtiSf 
at  the  tM>mmeoocment  of  the  Crinieun  war  our  troops  wvn  i 
located  in  auturon,  by  the  ofHeer  in  entnmuiid,  iit  the  side 
of  a  maUrious  fresh-water  lake,  near  Varnu,  in  direct 
opposition  to  the  medical  stiilT;  imd  noon  itfU-r  the  e^iitip 
wiw  ilrctmated  by  fever.  In  the  year  ISfill  u  rvfjimout 
was  transtuiTod  from  the  Care  to  Mauritius  by  ita  oolonel, 
durint;  a  iHivrre  epidemic  ol  lever  itt  the  latter  loeuhty,  in 
direct  uppoxition  to  the  medical  utatr,  merely  lor  the  men  to 
■ickcn  and  die  by  the  haadred. 


SOS 


oonsicA. 


Th«  practical  deductions  I  drntr  from  these  mearelie 
■ro,  liifll  liny  part  of  CuiMi'a  ik  mTc  lis  a  rcsitltrnei',  cilhiT 
for  invalids  or  touitKta,  Iruin  ili«  en<l  of  October  U^  the  end 
of  tlie  Fcvond  wi-ek  in  Mav  i  but  I  do  nol  advice  either  the 
one  or  tlm  other  to  go  to  t'nrsiwi,  or  to  rcmnin  there  during 
the  vunimor  monthn,  uiiliits  thc-y  l«iive  tliu  iduiiiM  niid  tJia 
outlets  of  rivers,  and  settle  on  some  mouDlnin  heiuht.     / 
the  TDOiiDtaini:  risR  to  ii  height  of  nine  thousand  feet,  the 
tm  inuiiy  ^l'>ri'>iiH  re^jion*  when.',  throughoiit  the  linatu  of 
eumm«r,  a  bracinir  henltliy  climate,  and  imiimiiity  IVitm  the 
intciisi-FiiiiimcrhcRt  oflheMeditcrrnDeannouid  hcsi-curvd; 
hilt  ut  pn-iient  ihiii  advicv  cannot  he  foltowei),  Itccstnw  no 
iDoiintain   accomroodatioD   exUts.     The   estuhlishineui  of. 
seme  such  cool  monntain  retreat  for  summer  would  be 
grt^il.  boon  to  tli«  i»habilnnt«  of  the  Kivicm,  a*  well 
to  Corsicaii   viailora.      I  am  cotivioced  thnt  the  Hivier 
is  no  nu-m  Miro  as  a  residence  for  northerneis  anerthesecondl 
nr  ihini  uceU  in  May  than  Cormcn.     Althuu(;li  tliiMV  tn* 
no  niiirshfi",  every  year  Hierc  are  ciisM  of  fever  ut  ^lentoiitt 
amunf;  the  jiatitiits  irlio  ri-main  s;^iiini<t  my  advice. 

A  litrj-e  portion  of  the  surtiwe  of  Corsica — 1  may  say  all 
that  is  not  a  |>TiiDcva)  forect  or  under  cnltivation — is  covered 
with  what  they  call  "maijniii."     I  do  not  like  to  n»v  Uio 
word  brushwood  or  scrub,  for  eueh  are  very  common  termsg 
to   apply  to   Rroves  of   uiidi-rwood  c«niposcd  of  Myrt)e_ 
Arl>iitii»,   Cistutt,    roek-Kosci',    and    Medilerrunean    IlnthJ 
anil  yet  of  such  is  the  inteiminnblo  "moqii's"  oouipoaod. ' 
Tli<se  choice  shrubs  ate  the  weeds  of  Cvi-sicii,   pTOwinc 
wherever  naliiri;  is    left   to  Iiitm-K,  wlierevt-r    the   Boil    la, 
not  Rovered  with  timber.     Indeed  tbey  won   afi^iii  ttiro 
etdtivutcd  lands  intu  brushwood  if  left  uncultivated  for 
few  years. 

'ftic  cxiKtcnce  of  thi«  ma(|ua,  or  bnishwood,  on  all  open- 
proun;!,  roii»titwtes  a  feature  in  the  social  hbtoiy  of^ 
CorMcu.  It  cnnlribiiti'd  much  to  the  neciirily  of  the  out- 
laws or  banditti.  Urowini:  geiiiTuUy  from  six  to  leu  feet 
bi;>li,  and  wlieie  the  soil  i»  oood  to  lilteen  or  twenty,  it 
oftiTH  un  all  but  impenetralile  rofuge.  On  the  other 
hand,  its  invofion  of  all  nncnltivuted  Koil  in  denac  musaesi 
rcndcni  it  difltcult  and  exp^Dsive  to  redcijm  bind,  and  tqj 


^ 


THE  MAQUIS — BOVINO  CATTLE. 


399 


brinf^  it  into  oultivation,  onot  it  has  fullon  into  th«  wild 

8tlll«. 

Unlil  witliin  the  last  few  yeais  all  cattle,  to  whomsoever 
Wlon^ini^,  bad  a  ri.;ht  to  pasture  in  tlic  miiquin.  The 
ri'^ult  WUH  the  osist^'iiw  of  mvinfj  flnuku  of  nhpep  or  ii*«it«, 
enlrxislod  to  shepherds  or  bi'lon^injr  to  tliem,  tliat  passed 
fiy)m  one  part  of  the  country  to  tho  other  accoi-dini;  to 
the  itcason.  Thcie  flock*  cnmniitted  groat  dcprediitionx, 
citp«ctall)r  the  f^uls,  and  renderi'd  hiialiandry  d:nicult  and 
precarious  in  the  distiicts  which  they  vi«it«d.  Gonts  are 
M  nimlili)  Wid  lisjhl  fonU-d  Ihut  no  ordinnry  feiioe  will 
ki-<!i>  thent  out  of  a  field,  nothing  »hort  of  a  teii-feet  wnll ; 
eo  I  found  them  everywhere  in  very  bod  odour.  It  in  in 
reality  the  condition  of  an  nnsctUed  country  ;  many  part* 
of  Spain  are  to  thi«  dny  a  desert  from  tlita  t-anse. 

A  law  hu,  how<tver,  been  passed,  prohihitinf;  what  is 
callod  the  "libra  pareoiir«,"  or  free  paKtiira^c.  No  cattle 
are  ii'iw  allowed  la  pasture  in  |:;miind±i  that  do  nut  Iwlonj; 
to  their  owner,  or  that  are  not  let  to  bin)  ;  nor  are  they 
allowed  to  roam  iinlcridvl.  This  nccfisftary  law  baa  been 
of  grant  Kt'rvin«  to  ajrrienllure,  but,  lilo!  all  pr»:;rci«!,  it  has 
it«  puinfiil  side,  for  I  was  told  by  peasants  that  they  t-oiild 
now  t;et  no  meat.  It  i*  like  the  enelmnrc  of  our  commons. 
The  jwawintry  who  did  not  own  land  bud  llockie  which 
they  drove  into  tbe  maqais,  and  on  the  product*  of  whieh 
tbey  partly  subsisted.  Now.llioy  are  reduced  in  a  gnat 
measure  to  tbe  products  of  their  own  lalmnr. 

Eni^lnud  itMlf  was  very  muoh  like  Corvica  iwn  hundred 
yearn  uiio,  aocordin-j  to  contemporary  writers ;  it  wim  balf 
covered  with  moorM,  fens,  miirshea,  nti<l  forest.  Sheep  and 
goats  were  cotuidered  miMiliic^vons  animal*  and  much 
abused,  Mid  the  poor  helped  litis  with  common  rigblH.  8inco 
the  ncceftiion  of  George  II.  four  thousand  Acts  have  been 
jwsed  for  the  encloxurc  of  commnn*,  and  mowt  of  tho  fena 
and  mun^hi-s  have  h.-en  drained.  France  is  not:io  advarKwd  ; 
many  of  her  di'iwrtnienls  arc  still  covered  with  jknud*  and 
miirnh-is,  which  render  the  nRighWitrin-^  mmnlrv  bo  uii- 
healthy  tbut  it  it>  dectmjt«d  with  roidariotiM  fcvcrH,  Thus 
in  J/1  Brettte,  a  triangle  situated  lietweeM  the  Smuic,  tbe 
Ain    and   the    Rhone,   full   of  ponds    and   manhui',   the 


400 


OOMICA, 


average  dunlion  nf  lift;  »  only  twenty-four  ycart,  ii 
parishes  only  «ight«eii,  in^ilead  of  tinrtyllve,  tlie  f 
nvcrnge  for  France,  TheBc  ponds  are  pitrtly  artiRciul,  and 
were  mcully  crvnted  in  Ihc  With  and  17th  century,  lo  [iro- 
pn^nte  ftKti,  fur  which  there  wna  a  great  demand,  owing  to 
the  ti;4(}roiis  obaervauoe  of  the  faat  days  of  the  Itoman 
Churcii.  Tho  ponda  lira  drHinfd  off  uAer  two  yeant,  tb« 
fish  sold,  anil  the  bottom  cultivated  with  cerealn  for  two 
yenri^,  whtn  tliev  are  tiKain  laid  under  wat«r  and  eloekctl 
witli  fiiili.  The  French  iiathoritir*  ure  doing  their  beet  to 
do  awuy  witli  these  eeiitroK  of  mulariii,  but  meet  with  ^n-ix 
reBiBtiniv  I'roin  the  proprietors  and  iuhabitants,  who,  an  is 
to  oOfU  the  cni^e,  eiintr  to  the  caiiRi^s  <>f  th«ir  ill-Ui-ulth  Biid 
premature  death,  Trom  intereicled  motivi-a.  M 

The  milk  ol'  the  alieep,  as  well  as  that  of  the  ([oats,  ifl 
liirf^ly  eonKiimed  oe  an  article  of  diet,  both  in  ihc  ehnpm 
uf  milk  iind  in   lliitl  ol'  elieeiie.      It  iti,  1  Uiis  told,  n  HioaH 
ininoiliuit  rtwource,  eMpemlly  in  the  mouiitaiu  dit>trietV| 
uud  I  roiiiiil  it  very  pidatable  and  };ood.     Would  not  our 
own  IliKli'anders  hnd  in  the  milk  of  tlieir  phcef)  a  vnliuible 
article  of  diet?     It  i^,  and  box  li(«n,  consumed  from  liin« 
immemorial  all  over  Ania  in   muuntain   dialriets,  and  (a, 
everywhere  greatly  eHteemcd.     The  larp;  fluckM  of  NortU 
Britain  wouUI  oUcr  a  bonntirnl    supply  ol'  this  valiiablu 
BTtieli-  of  luoil,  and  the  famines  vbieh  decimate  the  lliglufl 
lands  mi)cht  thus  be  rendered  Ion  HcriouH.     It  if>  true  thufc 
the  number  of  lambii  reared  would  Ite  greatly  dimini«li«lj 
and,  eonm-qiK-ntly,  rents  would  siiflerl  J 

The  Cor^icuim  mix  the  milk  with,  chcfltniit- flour.  Thn 
clic:^tntit«  ar»  dried  in  an  oven  when  they  fall,  in  thfl 
uuttmui,  and  when  wanted  ground  into  Bour.  With  thifl 
Hour  cukes  me  made  and  biid  on  chestnut  Ivavee,  whn^il 
wheU  baked,  eonetittitc  (heir  piincipiil  fund.  To  Mtraniteru 
tb>ae  cakca  tiialc  aweet  and  iniiipid,  but  tbe  uativcuarv  vuryl 
fon<l  of  them.  1 

In  the  great  primeval  fore«ta  arc  to  be  found  wild  board 
and  small  game  in  abiindanoe.  In  the  higher  inounlaiuM 
tho  native  raee  of  wild  sheep,  ualled  monllona,  are  mcfl 
with.  Their  presence  in  Hie  mountains  is  a  strong  attraofl 
tion  10  eothu«iasti«  aportatneu.     Id  the  alluvial  plains  od 


OAMB — SPORTISO. 


401 


oou 


I 


th«  eastern  coast  same  abounds,  and  in  the  aiilitmii  «nd 
winter  alt  kinds  ut  wut4)r-fowl  are  nii't  with  in  prufuriiuu. 
In  thv  cully  autumn  HcaHOU,  huwover,  lht»e  districte  aie 
•o  very  uiiheallliy  that  the   pursuit  of  the  };«mc  would 
probably  be   lollowcd   by  sevwre   li:vi;r.     Ounn-,  lar'^t;  anit, 
small,  is  more  abundant  in  the  southern  aiid  eaaterii  paita ' 
of  ('ursiva,  because  they  are  the  wildest  and  most  thinly 
inhabited.     The  long  probibiliun  of  llivjirnix,  and  of  legiti- 
mate Kport,  hiw  not  U-ndnd  tn  incrcaw  the  ttuck  of  j^inaj 
in   the   neit^ibourliood   of  lite   towns   and   in   the   more 
poimloue  partd  of  the  island,  but  rather  the  reverse.     Not 
bein^  able  to  shoot  g»me  as  hi-nsloforc*.  the  entire  ngri- 
«oUura1  pupulution  huve  devut«d  their  eueri;ieti  to  tnipjiiug:, 
and,  accordinjc  to  report,  with  &uc]i  Buoceea  as  to  have 
sensibly  diminished  its  numbers. 

Such  I  found  Conica.  To  ine  on  meb  of  my  tlin'G 
visits  it  ban  proved  a  most  enjoyable  and  fiiscinatiiig 
country.     Tho  ton  or  twrlvv  werks  that  I  have  tJins  B|ienti 

veiling;  in  this  lovely  inland  huve  Iil-om  amonc  tlw 
'pleaaautent  uf  niy  lii'e,  and  I  trunt  that  the  deac'ription 
given  will  lead  many  to  visit  its  hospitable  shores. 

What  I  have  said  will  Mhflw  there  is  in  Conica  much  to 
stuily  and  intenst,  as  well  as  miieh  to  admire.  It  is  new 
untroddi'n  ground,  a  country  in  a  slate  of  transition,  emer^- 
iu);  from  the  barbariitm  of  the  Middle  Ages  in  this  the  nine- 
teenth eentury,  as  the  Hit^hlandHof  Scotland  did  in  tbcj 
eighluenth.  The  firm  establishment  of  law  and  public 
security  will  surely  rct^-uerak':  the  country  here  as  elseivhcre. 
There  arc  not  now  three  oullaun  in  the  entire  isbiud  ;  lit'u 
and  property.  ar«  oe  safe  as  in  any  dejiaitinent  of  Fmnce,  or 
■ny  county  of  England,  and  onee  the  fact  is  known  capital 
will  In'^in  to  flow  into  CoriMca,  and  will  fertiliKv  it  us  tbi 
Nile  Jertilizee  Esyp^-  '^^^  climate  is  ({ood,  the  mil 
fertile,  the  natural  resources  gnmt;  but,  althuui*h  situated 
Bt  the  very  door  of  Europe,  all  ore  still  durotant  for  the  want 
«f  capita], 

The  French  Oovcrnmont  has  done  a  deal  already  for  tbts 
island  ;  indeed,  it  bus  cost  Fraiiee  several  millions  in  publiu 
works  since  its  6rst  oocnpation,  a  lumdred  yearH  o^o  (JutMV^ 
1769).    The  mon«y,  however,  is  well  invested,  and  it  is  to 


4dS 


CORSICA. 


"be  hoped  tbftt  tho  .lutlioritira  «-itl  not  hesitate  to  oompF 
what  hsR  beoii  C()itinK-iii.-r(l.  Oiiw  the  ronde  in  course  of 
TOnstmctinn  and  c«iiitew|4u1ed  are  finUhed,  no  doubt  aitKiNt- 
Ctnco  will  b«  given  to  the  proprietors  to  bring  Uil-  vallvvN 
into  cultivution  by  tlraitiii^,  und  to  Kcoiirci  a  proper  outlet 
fur  ibe  riven.  To  keeu  tbe  rivew  oiioq  mid  to  pri-Kcrve- 
tli«  plains  from  inundation  in  beyond  tne  resource  or  knowJ~ 
K'd;^  of  It  peamiit  propnetary.  It  iibould  and  must  be  dot 
by  the  (jovemment  cn^ineem,  as  in  tlm  Koman  uiu)  Grr«iai 
Slates  in  tormi-r  days.  A  channel  for  tbe  river  should  ba 
formed  and  cafrieii  into  ik-ep  water,  nnd  its  eutiauee  neen- 
f-iouiilly  ilredifeil.  Worlm  of  tbiti  Icim!  bavc  bifn  success  I  iilly 
curried  out  at  the  month  of  the  rivirr  Liamon«,  near  Ajiwcii 
with  ({rcat  benefit  to  the  adjoiniii);  coiinliy. 

M.  1«  Conite  do  Grandchamps,  iin  eminent  French  enS 
{Hneor,  lias  entered  at  li'n);th  into  this  (|Ui-iitihn,  and  into 
all  others  oon nee ((mI  wilh  t]i<3  matprinl  prosperity  of  (.'onioa, 
ill  a  very  valuable  work,  which  I  can  cordially  recommenct 
to  IboBC  who  fvel  interested  in  the  *iibjcc1.  His  book  tt 
entitled  "  Lu  C»r«e ;  ku  coin  nidation  et  son  rule  dwu 
Mediterrande.     Seeonde  Edition.     1869." 

Scveial  of  the  most  enlif;bti-ncd  and  encr^io  Cornean^ 
proprietorK  whom  I  met  with  told  me  that  however  anxious 
they  mi^ht  be  to  utilize  the  Qatiiral  resources  and  rorlilily 
of  their  country,  they  could  not  do  it  for  want  of  eapilul, 
for  ibere  wait  none  in  the  country.     They  had  land,  f^ooT" 
land,  and  plt^nly  of  it,  but  no  moncj' ;  so  the  laud  reniatiK'4 
eovcn-d  with  nia<piis,  and  merely  gave  them  a  bare  piiysiei' 
mjiinlenance.      What    was    wanted    was   for   eunUitcat 
capitalists  to  bring  money  into  the  island. 

I  Mrtaiidy  raw  in  tbe  ncighboiirhnod  of  Boidia,  p^rbaf 
the  only  town   in  Corsica  where  there  is  any  capital,  nuii 
vi-llous  results  from  its  employment.     Land  purchased 
Buv  four  or  five  pounds  mi   acre,  cleared  and  pluiitcd,  v 
f>aid  to  have  b»!otiie  worth  five  timtis  the  raoitey  t>|>cnt  < 
it,  in  tlic  course  of  half  a  dozen  year*. 

I  would  recommend  all  who  feel  diirpi>*ed  to  make  a  tour 
in  Coi-sica  to  read  carefully  Oregorovius'  "  Wundcniigt 
in  Coiviea,  its  Ilintory  and  it«  Heroes."     As  I  have  stated. 


it  is  a  most  charm*       Mok,  cvcj> 


<TTy-at-home  tra-j 


VORK^  ON   OOltSICA. 


4oa 


^llcrv.  AnolUor  ii*uriil  work  Tor  intending  tonrist*,  w  ft 
Utile  book  eothloil  "  Notes  on  tlie  Island  of  Corwoi,"  l^-J 
Misa  T.  CanipMl,  wliicb  contoinit  a  tli-al  «f  useful  infor- 
mation. MiKi  Cumpbell  hax  been  now  a  winter  r^iilonl  at 
AJMcio  for  many  ycara,  antl  has  dcvotvd  nil  lior  tiino  and 
all  her  energiee  to  furthering  llic  mlvunocm^nl  of  Ajneeio, 
and  iU  coloniuition  by  the  British.  I  must  also  mentinn 
Mr.  Tliomaa  J-'oreater's  "  Rambles  in  the  lelaniis  of  Corsioii 
und  Sardinia,"  and  Mr.  KdHard  Leir^s  "Journal  of  •■ 
Lntiilscjpc  l*»intcr  in  CowUMi."  Both  th*jie  works  are  very 
int<-ri>»tiiig,  and  oi^ntain  much  raluable  inlcrmation.  The 
6nit  edition  of  Mr.  Foi-t«tpr'g  book  appciired  in  IS.iS;  n 
accond  edition  has  rincc  been  piibliMlii'd.  Mr.  Ij>-ui''k  work 
vonUina  iiumcrouii  wood  en|;raving>t  of  Coraioan  soennry, 
whieh  well  sustain  his  reputation  as  an  eminent  artixt. 
Murray  ha«,  also,  published  one  of  biM  valuable  (iiiidt!^  »n 
Coraiua.  For  the  tlays  and  hours  of  deiurturc  of  steanters 
"  Bradahaw's  Contineubi)  Guide"  for  the  month  Hiould  l>o 
cimfiiiltid,  an  they  vary  from  year  to  yciir.  Thiw  prepared,, 
the  traveller  will  be  sure  to  train  both  pleiuture  and  inlomta- 
tion  from  so  excursion  in  this  most  picturesque  i!<land. 

Those  who  are  afraid  of  the  sea  can  both  go  und  lutiira 
by  Le;;lKirn  and  Dastia.  O^raioa  and  Sardinia  aet  m  a 
weateri)  breakwater  to  the  coast  of  Italy,  so  that  the 
channel  between  the  islands  and  Italy  is  a  much  calmer 
sea  than  tlie  mgro  open  «|iaoe  between  Ajut-eio  und  .Mar- 
•villes.     In  the  spring  monthii  of  April,  Muy,  and  Jtiiic,  this 

rrt  of  the  Mediterraneiin  is  ollen  calm  fur  weeka  lo^ether. 
should  a(;»in  iidvise  no  one  to  ([0  to  Corsica  in  ettrly 
autumn,  e»  account  of  the  malaria  which  still  prevails  in 
many  ports  of  tb«  coast  that  the  traveller  wouhl  winh  to 
visit. 

A  railroad  from  Bastia  to  Bonifado,  ulonff  the  eastern 
coatt,  liua  long  been  diseiiNsed,  nod  will,  it  in  xaid,  Iw  very 
Khortly  constructed.  Such  a  line  would  not  l>e  a  very  ex]>eii< 
sive  one  to  make,  as  the  country  in  Hat  nearly  all  the  way,  a 
plain  at  the  foot  of  the  nuiuuliiina.  When  completed  it 
will  contribute  proatly  to  the  prosperity  of  the  island,  eon- 
iiectini;  the  north  with  the  south.  At  present  there  it  but 
itUc  ipturcourse;    most  of  my  Hastia  friends  lud  never 


404 


CORSICA. 


been  to  Boni^ino/and  tnew  notliiDi:  newonnllv  of  th« 
Kiiiincft  of  the  t^oiithem  part  of  the  ialond.  Mok>«vct, 
tlie  Sli'iiiU  of  BoiiitUcio  itrc  not  wi<lc,  and  the  Sardiniui 
railwny  n-ill  hood  Iw  open  fniin  Porto  Torre*  to  Cag^liarh 
Coreicn  may  hope  to  see  northeni  to<irUUi  cliooiio  thi*  rout 
on  Uivir  way  to  tixe  southern  regions  of  the  MeilitemineaE 

The  best  time,  no  doubt,  to  \mt  Corsicu  is  in  the  spring, 
as  I  have  done,  aay  from  the  1st  of  April  tu  the  l&tli  oj' 
May.  In  my  three  visits,  esteiitliii^  over  nearly  thrv*! 
monlliN,  I  never  hml  om^  *in(;!e  bii<I  diiy,  not  one  dny  of 
wind,  eloud,  or  rain.  Mr.  Murray  in  hiw  Guide  »ay*  lliat  I 
am  too  enthiiMastic,  and  ^ve  rather  too  fsvotn-able  an 
Bueoimt  of  ConicA.  I  can  only  add  that  I  have  described 
it  moHt  triithfully  an  I  found  it  in  April  and  <-arly  May. 
I  mast,  however,  repeat,  that  I  advise  no  real  invalidj, 
wlioso  life  in  nctnully  at  Ktako,  to  venture  in  either  tliia  i 
aiiv  othf^r  iictv  eouiitry  out  oftbc  btuitvii  tmck,  not 
iiilo  ><tillii*rtaiiiliihire  or  the  IlebriilcK,  uulesMOii  a  visit 
a  lot'ul  iiia;;i)ute. 

It  ib  worthy  of  remark  that  all  southeni  localiliea  an 
towns  are  more  healthy,  and  conseqiionlly  itufer  to  vi«it  in 
•prinii  than  in  antinnn.  In  "pring  Vlicy  have  (jnno  lbrou}H> 
the  wiuti'r  mina  anil  frrmLx,  whidi  have  clfaiined  and  puri- 
fied them.  Thus,  Kome  and  Naples  may  be  rixited  niiieh 
more  safely  bv  pkaeure  tourist*  in  Febniari',  March,  and 
April,  timn  in  Noveitibi-r,  DeccmlHT,  and  Janiiarj\  Anotk 
important  point  is,  that  the  sea  is  often  calm  at  this  time 
tho  year  in  the  north  rej^one  of  the  Meditcrranenn,  attboufj 
notiii  the  south, qmI  know  toinycoft.  lliOKonthof  Kiirop 
also,  is  cverv>vliere  much  more  beautiful  in  6j>ring  than 
autumn.  In  April  and  May,  nil  that  has  Wen  writtirn  _ 
tbu  poets  is  inilfi-d  rcalix"^  and  found  to  be  tlioron^hly  trui 
Wc  nuiy,  Iht-n,  nitbont  reserve,  surrender  our  mitiiU  to  tl 
enjoyment  of  Ibe  poetic  beauties  of  early  sprinp,  which 
can  80  scldoin  do  in  our  own  northern  and  treiK-liorot 
elimato. 


t.[„\w  f-u  tApri,^  rfrq^\  \**Mm  1 


(Slfll.Vi 


I 


GHAPTER  XIL 


^ 


SICILY. 

"  Hbs  loOk  n  ({BiHidkiit  vt  vukU  muvoIm  nunft 
(Titntiini antloagiaqm  ralut  matAr«  retnataa) 
DtMptibsa  foniDt  •■  c;im  ]>Totiiiti8  ulraqti*  teUos 
DulbnTti  v«nit  nic'liii  vi  pnntiiH.  H  tindii 
Hntpttriiim  Sicnln  latiiimbiciilil;  itrnuiaH  et  nrbea 
Littore  dMuctna  anguitu  uiturlait  uwtii. 
Dexlrutn  Sajrtta  Utiui,lwvuiu  imi>lBoita  Chiujbd» 
ObsitUU"  Vmu.  Jin.  m. 

DKriiiTrtie— t'LiMAnt  u  momc  ir    tuit*tii»i— falbuii^- 
kehiiiia— CATtmA— xoljit  miA— naiousi-^BB  KSTcax. 

]s  ttii!  courev  of  tlic  winter  of  1862-63  tlie  ilcsiiv  to  viitit 
Sicily  UiaV  piiMfv^ion  of  me.  1  liuil  lji.i;n  titUMidini^  nwme 
KuHsian  Indies  who  bad  pa«8i^  tliu  jirtiviuiis  wiuli-r  at 
CaUiniii,  iiitd  nlso  eomo  of  my  countrymeii  \x\\o  li»d  spont 
Kuuio  in'jiilUit  at  Pidvrmu.  All  Vivre  loud  in  (iniUc  of  ttiiri:t! 
oitiee,  and  insisted  tbat  tht!  cliinatu  of  Sirily  vrts  tniicli 
Biipori»r  la  tbnt  of  the  lliviera.  Thus  tbe  uiK^utufuitublQ 
iilcii  ueviirrt'd  to  mc  that  ulW  all  I  might  nul  biiVL'  iJih- 
covcred  in  .Mentoiie  tbe  btwt  loculity  iii  which  ti>  »\n-w{  \\\e 
winter,  so  1  dou-rmined  \a  pass  a  few  weckx  in  Sicily  at  tbe 
I'luM!  uf  our  t>(-iiHciti,  and  to  jud^  for  myself. 

Aa  tl]«  time  for  deiiarture  ajiproscbinl  I  Lvgan  to  luok 
around  for  one  or  two  cuiniiiinioim.  Many  volunlvem 
otferLiI,  but  oixj  by  one  they  all  drtw  bntlc,  from  eoniw  taiitw 
or  utbur,  with  tlic  vxcc-ption  ot  eomt-  oiitlintiiiiKliu  yutiiif; 
ladies,  whom  1  uoiild  not  ponatbly  tuke,  niitil  iit  lost  I  b.id 
to  Kturt  alone,  I  cannot  eay,  however,  ibut  I  was  quito 
abandoned,  for  on  Ibe  iii<tiiiin>;  of  my  dt'|airliir«  for  Gi-noi* 
a  demr  little  ^irl  of  »ix,  Llie  diild  uf  itome  valued  friondH, 
camu  to  nie  with  a  small  l>undle.  I  had  asked  tier  re|>eatedly 
to  acootupnny  uie-,  but  kIii;  had  always  rvftiscd,  snytn^  that 
slia  oould   not   pueeibly  leave   bcr  uiuiiuua.     "  Dviir   Dr 


406 


SICILY, 


Bcniiet>"  fhc  bcgnn,  "  1  mnnot  licnr  to  lee  yoii  gi>in^ 
Sicily  ull  alone,  witlt  nu  one  In  take  care  uf  you,  so  I  bava 
miKM  up  my  mibd  to  leave  mnmma,  and  to  t^  wiUi  you, 
linTC  piickcd  up  my  lliiii)^,  nnd  I  Am  quite  ready."     It 
t>ini>i)Iitr  at  how  «iirly  an  age  childrcu   show  the  cbarao^ 
t«naiics  that  will  stamp  them  throit;;hout  lifi-.   It  is  mnrr'^l- 
loUH,  also,  wlint  power  a  tiny  dnld  ha«  to  pUniM  aiid  attAch 
ita  i^cniorx,  or  tu  rend  them. 

Although  I  at  lact  departed  alone,  it  was  not  witliot 
hnvio;;  many  friends  to  see  ma  off,  and  to  wisli  mo 
pro»i>i'r»>u«  journuy.  I  am,  indw-d,  stru<'k  I'vcvy  yettt  by  lb* 
^lat  coutraat  lliat  exidtd  bvtwevii  Hie  arriral  aud  tba, 
.  di>j>Hrture  of  the  wiuter  visitors.  This  is  more  l»lptM^inllJ 
tiw  iiiuiii  at  the  houKL'  that  1  inhabit,  whore  tbt^rc  aru  iienrii 
a  huiiilcei]  rcinidi-iiti,  iiiont  of  whom  aiv  invalids  and  tbei 
■  fTiunila  settled  down  for  the  wiuter.  When  the  "poor 
«xili-«"  arrive  all  is  new  and  striingu,  and,  •^■nvtally  opeuk- 
in^,  itii'iv  ix  no  one  its  receive  ihem  hut  one  o\'  the  waiters. 
Iltit  the  ntiite  of  tiling  iii  very  different  ou  deixarlure  io 
sprinfi;, ader  a  six  months' eojnum.  The  isotation  liu^ceas 
for  tfie  houM  liofi  become  full  of  friends,  with  whom  it  ia  i 
kind  of  <,-on)>cicntious  duty  to  km;  the  traveller  off.  The 
comi-n  ftiieh  a  Hbakiiig  of  !iands,  such  a  wavinj;  of  faaiij- 
kerohief's,  as  makes  the  departure  a  complete  uvulion.  Niw 
ie  Ihis  "well  wishing"  eunlititHl  to  friends  iivw  and  old^ 
Thv  host  and  hoiileM  and  dependents  seem  to  eonsider  it . 
duty  to  take  n  fiart  in  the  eeivinony,  and  express  their  (^>ci 
wiiiheK  with  a  eurdiulity  uod  familiarity  strange  tu  our  uoltl 
northern  ways.  . 

Six  months'  confinemcut  wilhin  the  limits  of  even  pio> 
tuniKpie  AleiitAnc  is  an  admir.ibic  pre|uiriiti()n  fur  nuoh  n 
journey  a.->  the  one  I  wiui  undertaking.  Starling  on  a 
liL-jutiful  April  morning— and  April  weather  is  always 
heautiful  in  this  part  of  the  world — onee  the  re;n^t  of 
leaving  friends  has  siibsiilod,  an  exhilarating  s«nM  of  free- 
dom, of  liberty,  ii^teals  over  the  mind.  To  the  invalid  who 
(lejiarts  from  his  winter  retrvat  with  reelored  or  improved 
heiilthj  intense  thankfulness  it  mingled  with  thi»  leuling. 
\niity  nlwiiyK  llic  air  js  wurm  and  h:ilmy,  yet  fre»h  and 
pleaMiul,  the  sun  ehioes  brightly  iu  the  olear  blue  »ky,  and 


DEPARTURE — ROAD  TO  GENOA. 


407. 


tb«  vegetation  ia  that  of  July  with  u».  \Vheo  the  Uiviera 
IOm)  ia  cbo6eD,  as  tlio  carriage  proKresBCe,  tlio  eyv  glaucM, 
iuvoIuDtiirily  from  the  wliJts  ulouile  <in  tliti  fur  oir  Itorixon, 
hao^iig  on  tlic  mouiituinii  of  Cunii>;a  a  liuiidrttil  mJlea  atvay, 
to  tlie  spurkliii^  sea,  to  tlie  now  funiiliar  I'anas  of  vege- 
tstion  on  the  roadtiidv,  and  to  tiio  olive-covUfL'd  inoutiUiiis 
whii^h  ImvL-r  hi'^li  above  the  xliori.*. 

Tiie  Riviera  tuad  wiatU  iti  aud  out  along  the  beach,  at 
timet  a>cauding  many  hundred  feet,  at  timee  descending 
to  tho  Mn-lerv).  Ridges  of  rock,  through  wiiioh  it  piw«i»!, 
jut  out  into  tho  wavLii,  IiUl'  mountniti  backboiiea  .or  Init- 
tresses,  showing  at -a  glance  tb«  geulogioal  etratificatioHg. 

I  taolaini  rocks,  Bomv  large  Bome  HmiUl,  vims  out  bodily  frotn 
the  aeo,  g«ncrully  at  the  b»uii<lnry  or  etitntnce  of  pretty 
bays,  sometimes  m  their  L-entre.  Wlioii  the  road  ascends  a 
hundred  (vnt  aljovt;  tho  ehor«  level,  tlie  outline  and  §h;;[>o 
of  tilt-  (i^'libluK  aud  i>o«dcIi-r«  at  the  bottom  of  the  »vu,  nuur 
tho  b«ach,  ore  eeen  with  singular  plainness.  The  eye,  at 
that  height,  pierces  the  water  arid  sees  the  stoaes  al  the 
bottom  of  the  sea,  as  in  one  of  Cru«wick'a  piutur««  of  a 
trout  or   salmon  ittfv«ni.     Pielurei>i|ue  grey  villager  and 

ttowUK  are  froqueotly  passed,  gener-illy  cunsisting  of  one 
large  narrow  utrwl  along  the  shore.  They  are  composed 
of  old,  primitive,  tall,    qiiiiint-lo»l(ing    Iiouxm,  and    llu-ir 

linhahiinuts  Ibnu  very  artislie  grouiis  under  the  porches. 
A  Houroc  of  surpris*  to  us  meat-loving  nurthcrnere  U  tho 
aliMiice  of  hutvhers'  shopt),  fur  I  only  counted  two  be- 
tween Mentoiie  and  Genoa.  Nothing  is  neeu  cipo»e<l  for 
Kuk-  in  the  eatable  line,  hut  bread,  niaccaroiii,  dried  beans, 
chentDutH,  wia«  and  oil,  eviduntly  the  staple*  of  tliu 
oonntry. 

Genoa,  the  Superb,  is  s«on  many  hours  liel'ore  it  is 
reoolicd,  featc'd,  ampbitbeatre  wise,  at  the  base  of  a  moun- 

[.tain  in  the  oenlrcof  itswideeea-likehay.  A«  the  tniveller 
approaches,  life  become*  mnro  active,  the  villages  and  towns 
are  mor«  numerous,  as  arc  the  peoiilv  who  inhabit  them. 
Great  ships  ar«  bnitding  on  the  beach,  on  the  very  road,  as 
it  were,  and  inspire  the  piu't^itig  traveller  will)  wtindcr  n»  to 

■  bow  they   are  to   be    got    into    the    sia.     t'umule  figure'* 

Pibeaorae  more  and  more  numerous,  looking  very  picturefi^ue 


408 


BICILT. 


from  their  1ie»d  dreN.    Th«  OenoeM  women  of  the  middl 
daM  wcnr  od  their  heada  a  thin  goeeamer  white  or  bl 
■carl*.     It  iit  riist«n«d  to  the  hair  and   oomb,  aitd  bungs 
graei-ruHy  down  on  botb  nides.     Tbe  women  of  the  lower 
clues  wear,  in  the  same  style,  (raudy,  many -coloured  oottoo 
■C4iirE.      Indood,  the  love  of  vivid  c<.>louni  KvnmM  to  increase 
IS  we  decvoiid  Kouth.     Rvd  iu>stimis  n  prominent  festare  in 
the  dreae  of  the  women,  and  tbe  large  umbrellaa  are  f;vnB^ 
mlty  of  the  eame  viviti  hue     The  otitsidea  of  the  hoi 
alKO,  arc  ornamented  with  rrvecocs,  which  reproduce  nil  tli 
colours  or  the  rainbow,  iind  ^ive  great  animation  to  tlio 
sc«D«.     Vividness   in  colour   probably  -  become*;  an    itctti: 
want  to  xoiith^-rncrs,  acciietomei)  Ut  intcnuo  light,  to  tli 
Itllare  of   a  southern  miii  ;   whil.it  Qorthernem,  acoustome< 
to  sombre  skies  and  (o  eubdiied  light,  are  satisfied  with 
in"re  niibtliicd  colutire — to  Rrccn,  Rrey,  and  binclc.     Soon 
wc  reach  the  bti»y  titiburW  of  a  civut  city,  an<l  in  a  few 
minutes  more  we  are  in  the  middle  of  one  of  the  grcatnt 
commercial  marls  of  the  Meilitcininean. 

By  far  Has  best  way  of  rejcliin;;  Palermo  ii  from  Mar- 
seilKii  by  one  ul'  the  Me>wii>^-rici>  Mnrilimes  Alexandria 
boat<i,  wliiuh  Unichen  ul  Palermo  every  turtni;;ht.  From 
Genoa  the  route  is  by  Naples,  between  which  and  Sicily 
theru  it>  freqaviit  communication,  so  I  was  obli>;Ml  to  go  b^ 
way  of  Nujilen.  TluH,  however,  I  di<l  not  re(;rel,  for  tt 
gave  mc  the  opportunity  of  paying  another  visit  to 
Pompeii,  which  in  aluaya  seen  with  renewed  pIcMtire. 
Only  one-third  of  Ibe  town  of  former  days  lias  bivn 
rcvcult-d,  and  as  excavations  are  constantly  goiiie  on, 
every  year  there  oi<;  frwh  nbjects  of  interest  to  bo  sci-n. 
On  tins  occasion  1  waa  xlKitvn  a  oiiignlar  group  of  Kevtral 
li-;urcfi  jtist  discovered,  a  woman,  a  man,  and  a  {r>H,  in  the 
wry  act  of  llyinj;  from  the  ebuwer  of  ashes,  when  the^^^J 
wrre  overt^tken  and  Hinotben-d.  The  moulds  were  fotmd  i|^H 
a  Ht.it«  of  complete  pTcttrval  ion,  iind  owing  to  tliiK  eironra^^^ 
■tanco  the  curatois  were  ennbled  to  make  a  pluster  cast, 
which  vividly  brings  to  mind  the  actual  event.  Every 
muni^uhir  cinturlitm,  I'very  detail  of  nhapr,  is  distinctly 
bruiigbl  out  in  thin  vivid  and  ghantly  irroiiji,  n<iw  pre- 
iiervvd  in  the  Museum  nt  Pompeii.     1  also  satv  a  recent! 


^ 


ITALIAN  PASSGNUEltS — A  FABTINO  mHSE.    409 


uncovered  ■ul>t«rni»i)aii  water  dinnncl,  Rome  Tour  fe«t  wide, 
and  two  deep,  in  which  a  CDnsiderablo  body  ol'  ouol  peilutiiil 
wat«r  i§  seen  rtinnin);  rapidly  to  the  een.  A  few  fi-et  only 
&r  the  rout'  hud  been  tiiken  ulT,  nnd  I  toukcd  down  witii  iii- 
terciit  oil  this  Htrvatn  of  |>iir<!  water,  oollcctinl  t'runi  the  ad- 
joiniufT  niouDtainy  more  than  eiKliteeu  ci-'iiturK's  ajio,  tor 
tlii;  iii'c  of  the  town,  and  which  diiriiiij  all  tlint  puriod  baS  j 
been  runiiing  iiii.iM-n,  hidik'n  in  tltc  bosom  of  the  earth, ' 
buried  with  the  city  it  waa  intended  to  i(U|>|ily. 

Thi^n;  is  a  etcam«r  every  other  day  IVom  K»pki<  to 
I^ilerma,  aiid  the  iiea  binii|;  culm,  and  the  buroniet«r  all 
rij^ht,  1  went  on  boni'd,  the  ]r)th  of  April,  at  U  p.m.  I 
vrua  the  only  Kn>;1iehman  on  det-k,  so  liaviu;;  nothiug  cIm 
to  do  I  a»iu»ed  myself  by  walehiti};  my  oompatiion*. 

There  were  many  Iliiliaim  among  the  panMin^ieiv,  and 
lanny  partin)^  were  takiiii;  plauc.     1  wud  iDt«reatt'd  and 

E'  M»od  to  wee  how  Mtroii>;  the  atfoctJon  tio  evidently  wua 
tween  tliose  departiiiii;  and  thoiie  left  behind,  and  Itow 
utterly  rv^rdleea  all  appeared  to  be  of  llie  rules  which 
restrain  the  public  matiircstatioii  of  fi<t.-lin${  in  Kn^luirl. 
Grawu-up  people  cried  and  kiMcd  eael)  other  again  and 
u^iiin,  without  the  emAll»t  elTort  at  ooiieenlment. 

One   group  more  <s|>vciBlly  ultraL-ti-d    my  attention;  n 

f'oung  Ne.ipulitan  bride,  with  her  husband  ami  yoiiiigvr 
irother,  as  1  sfteruavdii  learnt,  were  taking  leave  of  the 
family  ol  the  lormer,  on  their  departure  for  Wlenno,  whero 
the  bridet^rooni  resided.  Thrre  was  a  boat-load  of  the 
yonn^  lady'it  family,  father  and  mother,  and  three  or  four 
sisU'Df.  biich  «'L>bbm>;  and  cryiut;  t  never  saw  before.  The 
poor  mother  and  aistDHt  v/vrti  absolutdy  cunvutiied  Willi 
(•rief,  and  could  acaroety  artieulntti  for  their  Ktbo.  1'liu 
vnpttiin  was  positively  obliged  to  have  them  removed  from 
the  vi-Mul  when  we  Htiittcd,  for  they  could  not  bu  per- 
suaded to  leave,  and  even  then  they  kqil  wavini;  their 
hantikerchiefa  from  the  boat,  and  brvakinit;  out  into  lK«h 
pnrAxysmt!  of  |^of  as  lon^  aa  ire  <x>uld  sec  them.  Tho 
lather  waaaa  weak  as  the  hfly  membi-rv  of  hl«  (iMnily,  I 
fuund  him,  aecidentally,  in  tlie  ntewurd's  cabin,  takinj; 
leave  of  his  youu^jcr  son,  a  Ui^  buy  of  fourteen,  with  boIm'i 
and  team  aud  puHignute  emhrucw.    Ko   utw   on   boftrdi 


410 


SICILY. 


flecmcd  to  think  it  at  all  atrati]^ ;  on  tbe  contrnry,  I 
on   nil  t»i<]t«   kind    Italinn   €X]>r(^8>ions  of  xynipathy  Ad 
interest,   Tiie  lirid«  criud  lu  tianl  n*  the  re^taltJie  p«rLir_ 
but  sbe  soon  wiped  lier  ey«e  and  smiled  throiiRb  bar  t«ars 
when  her  roUtivee  were  out  of  si|;bt>  seutntiig  to  find  luniilta^ 
(wmpciimitioit  in  the  loving  looks  mii  kind  vpeeoltM  of  «ii^| 
youu)(  husband.     So  it  i»  in  ranat  departures,  tboM  wlu^^ 
are  leffc  behind  ate  the  most  to  be  pitica.     The  new  eoeiice 
and  iiitiiTiwtn  thHt  surround  I'lioec  wiio  dupwt,  tend,  if  not 
to  con»olc  tbem,  at  leael  to  draw  Uioir  thoag)its  into  other 
cbunnels.  I 

Thv  next  tnoriiini;  I  wne  up  early,  and  on  deck  soon  aO#r     ' 
six.     Our  counie  bad  beon  pni^peruuit,  and  I  was  iuforinrd 
bat  wv  diould  be  at  our  destination  by  ten.     Already 
fthe  mountains  of  Sicily  wore  fiiintly  rieiblu  nn  Che  horiuKi. 
The  ntorainffwaa  lovely,  Uie  uirpure  and  elear,aud  scoroeJ/ 
.  wave  on  tne  sea,  except  those  we  made  ourselvea,  as  m 

ndily  pimued  »iir  way,  dixpUcin^  the  rhiiiint;  bravii 
vatvre.      Tlicre  werv  only  eaitora  uq  deck,  with  ibe 

ftpeption  of  a  I'at,  burly,  florid-faoed  man  in  a  dirty  whi' 

~Ve«4,  eittinv,  with  a  look  of  Rroat  compoeure  and   ml 
nttisfuvtioii,  by  tli<.-  "iile  »r  tUe  engiiivs.     In  his  Iinmls  wi 
Jiuir  H  loaf  uf  breW  und  a  bu^  piece  of  meat,  and  with 

I'^laop-kDiro  he  kept  cutting  o If  slice  after  slice,  isvidcotl^ 
inch  to  bis  own  (;rulifie»tion.  1  at  Oiiirc,  by  hiH  a|>]>i-ar- 
moc  and  ncciipulion,  recoijnteed  a  oouutrj'man,  and  IgHt  do 
time  in  makiDi;  his  aciiiiaiiitance. 

I  found  him  v»ry  itlT-ihtc,  and  soon  learnt  his  histo 

!>ike  ray  friend  of  the  Vir^Uia,  he  was  the  en^iteer  of  the 

gtenmor,  an<l  also   a   fair  specimen   of  the   philosophical 

roving  Kii<;liiihmitn.     HIk  idea  of  \>\»  dLity  to  himself  was 

l<to  obtain  iia  good  pay  with  as  iimy  a  berth  aa  he  enuld,  und 
nn  order  to  accompliab  this  he  wds  prepared  to  ^o  to  any 

tpart  of  the  babitnbla  globe.  Indeed,  there  were  luw  regions 
of  the  world,  be  said,  to  which  he  h»d  not  been,  and  to 
wliicb  ho  was  not  (terfectly  leady  to  go,  if  he  found  it  to 
hie  advantatro,  A  few  months  previous,  on  returning  from 
China,  be  had  been  offered  this  vessel,  and  at  the  s.)mc  time 
a  new  nii'atiier  goin){  out  to  run  on  the  Spiinioh  uowt. 
The  pay  was  tlie  eanu  in   both  cases,   bat  be  prefixed 


"3^ 


I 

pi 


ANOTUKK  ENtiUSB   ENGINJSEB. 


41  !> 


tlio  proecnt  vessel,  an  old  onv,  bocanse  old  engioMj  v\mm 
gvHii),  work  uasiljr,  nnd  give  no  troabU^,  «rli«rvu  new 
euipneii,  fur  lltu  PiRit  year  or  two,  give  a  (freat  deal  oS 
trouble.  If  thty  bad  oHered  bim  mora  yay  bo  ivoaUL 
biivi- liikeii  the  m'M- ebip ;  but  lii;  nw  too  obi  u  hiind  to 
bolhirr  himself  witb  now  engines  wh«n  he  miibl  get  tba 
tianiD  inoiioy  for  ntti>iiJiiig  to  old  onre,  tbnt  would  work  of  i 
tlR-inKdvcH  wttbout  any  trouble.  In  uttvrint;  thin  Henti> 
mcui  bo  aliiit  one  eyit,  and  guve  mo  a  kiiowiog  wink,  as  if 
moiUllj'  ap|riauding  bis  own  jud^jnient. 

1  «x|ir(»Md  approval  of  lits  dM-isioii,  and  inqiiirt-d  if  lift 
Waa  comforliible  on  boanl,  and  was  i>ati»IJt'd  wilb  bi«  aitua* 
tioB.  "  Pi-rfectl}',"  be  anmvered  ;  "  ibe  vtssel  and  engines 
werr  i^ooil,  ultbougb  nothin<;  to  look  at;  and  »ltbiiii<>ii 
b<!  did  not  know  Miueb  of  tlicir  'bngn,'  be  niaiiii^iil  to 
make  bis  slokcrd  (Italians)  understand  bim.  Hut  then," 
he  addi'd,  "  1  don'l  lot  tbe  raptain  intt^rfere  witb  roe,  my 
on^ne-room,  or  my  tn«n'.  He  tried  it  on  at  lirst,  but  1 
Kooii  allowed  bint  tliat  it  would  not  do.  One  of  my  men 
ivon  luxy,  na,  on  arriving  at  Naples,  I  mudo  him  puck  tip 
hi^  tbingH,  culled  u  boat,  nhovird  bim  overboard,  and  tola 
him  to  come  back  at  bis  peril.  1  had  to  go  ashore  that 
raorning,  and  on  my  ntnrn  to  tbe  vessel  I  luund  that  tba 
captain  bud  engiigcd  another  man  lu  stokvr.  Tbi»  1  eould 
not  stand,  for  1  consider  that  the  captain  baa  aotbin);  what- 
ever to  do  with  the  cngino-room,  where  1  am  master,  and  I 
alwaya  vngage  my  nien  uiyxclf.  So  I  ehovcd  tbix  man  otT, 
like  tbe  other,  and  m  eul  myself  to  tbe  owners  of  the  shin  to 
tell  them  what  1  had  done.  1  found  the  eaptain  at  the  omce, 
and  he  Hew  into  a  towefiiig  rage  tvhvn  he  be^ril  that  I  liiui 
tnnted  bis  mail  out  of  tbe  ohip.  My  rvply  wao  that  I  wan 
m.vlvr  in  the  etigine-raom,  aud  meant  tu  rcntain  so;  that 
1  viati  rvuponMbli-  for  tbe  men's  work,  and  that  I  was  ooif 
aequently  tbe  proper  one  Lo  vbooMt  thent ;  that  I  would 
liavo  no  interference,  and  that  if  tbe  power  lo  choose  and 
diiimiM>  the  stokers  waa  not  left  with  me,  1  would  not  put 
my  foot  in  tbo  vckh-I  again.  Tbey  rrctlvd  mid  fumed,  but 
had  to  ;^ve  way,  for  I  was  Herious,  and  meant  what  I  said ; 
and  ever  sinoe  I  have  been  master,  and  tlie  ouptoin  iloec 
Hot  try  to  int«rfere.     You  see,  sir,  1  was  right,  oitd  they 


413 


sicaLY. 


all  bnew  it.  I  nm  not  ^ing  to  liare  a  set  of  lazv  ItalUn 
loiite  alxtul  me ;  thev  must  do  tbeir  work  propcrljr,  or  go 
nbout  thdr  business.  ' 

1  Ituve  roproJiiood  this  Itttli:  incident  becauHo  it  illn*- 
tralcR,  an  <i"es  tbe  hinlury  'il'  the  engineer  of  the  yiiyitio, 
mentioned  in  a  former  cliapter,  Bome  of  th«  vharacleristia 
featiirr*  of  tbo  An^^lo-Suxon  raco.  Ftoid  the  peer  to  Uie 
peasaul  we  are  ul)  ulikc,  all  ready  to  go  to  any  part  of  tbo 
liabitublo  tf'*^^^  to  Wtter  our  social  pueition,  ai^d  wo  all 
pliow  iIk'  minx  tendency  to  prefer  tin-  ti>ii<{ibl*t»  titv  idcod. 
In  oilier  wordii,  usa  ra(^',(ve  hIiow it Mn^uliir  co in bi nation — 
a  love  for  adventure  and  romanoe,  and  a  keen  opprcciutiou 
of  iiiiiteniil  udvanta^  wherever  it  ia  to  bti  found.  More- 
over, wbi-rever  we  un  we  mukc  ournelvn*  buppy  and  ara 
Contunlcd,  eopported  by  au  intense  conviction  of  our 
aujMriority  over  all  around  us,  and  liy  a  pliiloeupbicol  belief 
that  it  is  our  buundett  duty  to  make  ounelvee  as  comfort- 
able »s  is  possible  under  the  circumstances  in  whicli  wu  are 
placi'd. 

My  new  friend,  Itaving  completed  bin  brvakfimt,  tmid 
must  Ko  and  l^mk  alW  bin  engines,  and,  desccuUtii',;  tl 
enjfinp-i'ooni  ladder,  lell  roe  once    more  aloDP.       Ity  tb^ 
time    my   fellow  |iitK»engera    bad    nearly    all   made    tlia. 
appearance,  and  were  ualkiiix  up  and  dotvn  the  deck,  uj 
twos  and  tbrera,  etijoyin;;  liio   pK-u'^aiit    fraiiranoe  of  tfa 
early  morn  at  m-u.      1  wiu  dctermiiiL'd  to  bring  my  M>lit«r} 
oondition  to  a  close,  so  commenced  loukin);  around  lor  "  a 
future  acquaintance." 

Cbildren  and  du;^  are  first-rata  pbysiogtiomiNta.  Ifie 
former  instinctively,  as  it  weiv,  lind  out  who  really  like 
tbeni,  and  do  not  liexitute  t4>  make  ibe  Gn>l  advauuw.  A 
lu»t  dog  will  sciiii  tlie  features  of  those  wbo  jiass  biin  in 
the  strvet,  and  having  doti'rmiued,  in  bis  in.ier  mind,  that 
lie  hiis  found  u  benevoU-ntly  iuclim-d  hnmnn  being,  will 
jolluw  him  pertinacioocly  to  bin  home— an  iittciilion  which 
1  have  alnuyn  considered  to  be  a  ^irv^nt  cuiiipliment,  if  )Mtd 
to  myself,  \\  hen  1  am  travelling  alone  1  iniilate  Loth 
the  children  and  tbo  dog«.  1  wuin  the  phyi-iognonties  of 
my  fellow  travvlleiw,  and  when  I  buvo  found  oae  that  ii 


TRA^'ELLINO  COMPANIONS. 


413 


"  symiffltlietic"  I  mako  an  ndviiDoe,  which  I  T«ry  scldooa 
find  repi'llotl. 

On  tlie  voyage  from  Genoa  to  N«i)le8,  I  Ihus  mnde  a 
vvry  n:;ret.'able  HcqiiamUiice,  timt  of  nil  intcllvctuitl  mid 
refined  t^ntli'tnan,  ii  coffee  plunter  from  Cvylon.     Ilia  his- 
tory c|uit<;  corroltorates  what  I  have  said  of  the  no-ahead 
ciMirgy  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  rac«  when  Kpcnlsini*  of  my  two 
en};inecr  friends.     Whilat  at  Oxford,  a  relation  lelt  him 
KCvunil  coffee  pUtitationt  in  Ceylon.     lie  put  aside  hi« 
das§ice,  Homer  mid  Honivi',  and  went  olTto  Ceylon  to  titk« 
poiccwion  of  till!  newly  a«|nirt.-d  properly.     Onctf  tlicre  lie 
threw  all  his  energies  into  the  fresh  career,  so  little  conso- 
nant (vilh  former  studies  and  occ'iipatioDs,  and  had,  coniic- 
((ucotly,  lieun  vtrj  ancoeMful.     H»  luid  piiesed  mnny  yean* 
in  hiN  now  home,  and  merely  left  six  motith«  prvvtuus,  to 
speod  a  winter  in  Kn^land,  on  health  Krounda.     lo  a  few 
yearn  more  he  cspucted  to  have  aeipiirvd  a  sufficient  fortune- 
to  return  for  ^uod  to  Kugland,  hut  in  the  meanwhile  CeyloaJ 
wan  hiii  home,  his  field  of  battle,  and  to  Cevloii  he  wwj 
returning.     Moirt  Frenchmen  would  have  sol^  the  entalMj 
for  whiit  they  would  have  fetotied,  and  would  hiivt!  ^me  on 
with  tbeir  home  career,  in  "  L\i  belle  France"  hut  such  la^ 
not  the  Anf;!i>-Siixon  impnluc. 

We  hvojiiiie  (j^reiit  frieniltt,  and  iMfHcd  a  few  day*  together 
very  agreeably  at  Naples.  1  shall  not  easily  forg^et  the 
pleasure  with  which  he  luokM  at  a  youni;  oak  in  leaf  afcj 
Capri.  Ill-  hiiil  nut,  ho  raid,  rtovn  an  oak  leaf  for  manjn 
yciiTK,  for  the  oaks  had  lust  their  foliagie  when  he  reaclieU 
Kngland  in  the  autumn.  Ho  loit  it  to  me  to  decide  whether 
he  shimld  accompany  mc  to  Sicily,  or  (•o  on  to  Itome. 
Having  only  ten  days  to  spare,  he  coidd  not  do  hotli,  and 
I  take  ^rvat  credit  to  myself  lor  havin)f  pacriGced  my  own 
wislie*  to  wluil  I  eonxideml  hiM  advantjii^^,  in  advising  him 
to  prefer  the  "eternal  city."  Thus  it  waa  that  I  wae 
"  alone"  on  the  voyage  to  Palermo. 

On  thi*  occaxion  four  Uermant,  evidently  travelling 
together,  found  favour  in  my  eyes,  and  I  at  once  broke 
the  ice  by  a  few  trivial  remurlcK  on  the  weather,  and  on 
our  favourable   |iro(;ress.      I   found   them   very  pluanBiitt 


4U 


BIOILT. 


■mi'able  people,  and  we  eoon  became  qnite  friendly.  Ofif" 
wiij!  prufcHiar  of  history  in  a  Gcrmnn  iiiiivcrsity,  nai\  a  few 
worJx  ibout  the  Grecian  iintiqiutioH  of  Sicily,  bImhiI  tlm 
Flicenicians,  the  predeoessora  oi'  the  Greeks,  aiid  their  auu- 
ocmors  the  Romans,  Siiraceos,  nnd  N'ormans,  were  to  his 
ean*  like  tlic  btiwt  of  n  trum[)ct  to  a  wiir-horsv,  rcKieitij;  nil 
hia  histdrictit  tiympatliica.  ^Vaa  he  not  going  to  8ieity 
with  two  of  hts  fitment  friends  on  purpose  tn  study  them 
vary  imt)i|uilics  1  The  fourth  wim  n  youn;;  Orrmini  llnron, 
very  hi^li  and  mighty,  with  a  Inr^  eariM't-bng  tjoita 
covered  with  crowns  aiid  recoiiditc  armorial  bearinKE.  His 
fathi-r  tTiiH  a  ^reat  ninu  in  Germany,  tb«  owix-r  of  a  dnxen 
eetatee,  with  iunumerabb  qu:irt«rings  of  nobility,  nnd  tin) 
son  was  treated  with  much  respect  by  his  companions, 
^e  focial  slatv  of  Sicily,  nnd  that  of  itc  landed  arititocracyj 
still  rich  and  locjdiy  pciwitrful,  Imd  im  great  .i  i-barm  fflfl 
him  as  had  hialory  and  antiiuity  for  the  learned  professof| 
Companions  and  friends  thus  secured,  fur  tiie  present 
kiL*l,  I  \\a9  able  to  f^vc  my  undivided  attention  to  tb« 
island  we  were  now  fii»t  uppri>uchi»g. 

At  a  difllancc  Sicily  appeared  to  rise  From  the  sea  as  a 
oLain  of  low  mauntains,  extcndint;  from  wost  to  en«t,  bvt 
on  a  nearer  approach  the  mnunttiin  chain  gained  in  ap- 
parent ftevation,  and  a  wide  bay,  that  of  Palermo,  opened 
out  aa  we  approat.'hed  the  Und  from  the  norlh-ciiet.  In  th« 
boeliground  of  the  luiy  a  mn^^ntlii'tut  mountain  nmpbi*' 
thciitn!  rittcii  maj<ittically.  lliis  urnpliithi^utre  has  a  circuil 
of  twenty-niue  miles,  and  is  limited  by  a  bold  range  of  linw- 
stone  mountain"  which  encircle  it  ilown  to  the  *<■»,  fonniu)! 
by  their  loat  spurs  or  projections,  Mount  Pellegrino  on 
west,  and  Mount  Catalfuno  on  the  cast ;  they  conslitut 
the  arniN  or  limits  of  the  Iiay  itself. 

The  lifHt  mountain  barrier  that  forms  the  amphitheatre 
is  about  thit-o  thousand   feel  high,  but  »uec<i«ive  rid;^_ 
rise  aliove  eueh  other  towards  the  south,  until  a  height ' 
sis  thousand  feet  is  attained.     It  is  to  the  fertile  plain,* 
enciroled  by  this  noble  nmphithcAtre  of  mountain*,  that 
has  been  given,  from  time  immemorial,  the  name  Df  Comm 
i'vn,  or  the  Golden  Shell.     The  width  of  the  bay  its«irt 


ARRIVAL  AT  PALVBMO. 


41 S 


from  Mount  Pell^rino  to  Mouut  Catairano,  is  eight  mile*  t 
followiiiK  the  coiinto  ')f  the  Itny  it  if  twelve  milM. 

The  town  of  Paiemw,  lat,  5S'  6',  populiitum  210,000,  is 
i^ntiAttfcl  on  the  shore  ol'  the  bay,  at  the  jtmction  of  tlie 
vrcatein  third  with  the  eastern  two-thinls.  It  is  built  on 
each  ndv  of  a  lon^  unil  fine  titn^&t,  the  Via  Toledo,  which, 
beginning  at  the  tnarin*  or  beach,  ae(M>iids  ^ntty  inland 
towards  the  iDountuinN,  so  that  the  city  r»rms  n  piiral- 
lclo!;ntin,  and  is  Ions  *^  nsirmw  aa  vontjiared  wilJi  its 
width.  The  port,  whfch  iiwd  to  be  mnch  larger  and  deeper 
ID  rormi.>T  days,  rum;  qnitv  into  the  town.  A"  it  is  too 
shallow  n'lvr  lor  lar;2;e  voiml'Is,  the  latter  anchor  inside  a 

o)«  or  jetty,  bnilt  ouUide  the  old  port. 

The  view  of  F^lenno  as  nre  approached,  on  a  clear,  fresh 
minny  spn'ng  moniinj",  was  rwilly  very  beautiful.  Th« 
grand  range  of  mouiiLaiTia  in  the  background,  reaching  the 
Ri-a  on  each  side  of  the  bay,  an<l  all  but  encircling  the  vast 
and  fertile  plain,  Ihe  lar^-  white  city,  with  its  numeroos 
uithedrala  and  ehurohe*,  shining  in  the  southern  unn,  tb» 
wide  tree-plantn)  esplanade  or  marina,  the  deep  liltu;  water 
of  the  eca,  all  combine  to  creat«  a  scene  of  lovelinees  and 
grandeur  whieli  remaina  ever  ulW  engraved  on  the  HH^mory, 

Nor  was  the  favourable  impression  destroyed  or  weakeiiM 
on  landing.     The  »hore,  which  is  laid  out  as  a  promenade, 
and  drive,  and  planted  with  fine  trees,  juKt  coming  into  leaf  ' 
n-hei)  we  arrived,  is  bordered  bv  handsome  hoiiaea,  among 
which  is  the  fanie>|  Trinaeria  Hole),  one  of  the  beat  iit- 
Ituly.     Ragiit>a,  the   laniiloril,  lived   long,  in  early  days, 
with  Kiiglish  noblemen,  and  knows  the  waniK  and  nNjuirr- 
ments  of  our  eount'ymcn,  which  ho  does  his  best  to  meet 
and  Hupply.     The  rooms  arc  clean  and  well  fiirnishvtl,  and 
the  front  ones  have  a  fine  view  of  the  sea  and  bay,  the  one 
drawback  being  that  they  look  direct  norlh. 

Once  oomfortaldy  installed,  my  fimt  thought  wb«  for 
the  state  of  the  vegetation.  The  princijial  motive  of  my 
vii^it  to  Sicily  being  to  study  the  winter  vUmatv  as  demon* 
Htriitcd  by  the  vegetable  world,  I  was  anxious  not  to  low, 
a  day  in  commencing  the  survey,  1  therefore  drove  at 
once  to  the  UotanicJil  Uardeii.    After  examining  it  careiully 


416 


8icn.Y. 


I  dovotci]  ttie  rMt  of  tli?  dny,  as  also  part  of  ncih  dajr  tbi 
I  rpmaiiH'il,  to  the  utmly  of  tli«  njotconiloijicnl  poeitJOD, 
of  tl1<^  vi'gv'luMu  productioiM  of  the  plitii)  that  HtirruuDtU 
Piit«rmo. 

My  intention  hcinjr  lo  compare  the  vegetation  of 
Rivivni  with  ttiat  of  Sicily  nt  tlit!  wtne  opocli  of  tho  your, 
hnil  curcrully  snalyaed  it  at  Mi-ntone  anclalonE;  the  Kirie 
when  1  left  the  one  and  passed  through  the  oUicr.  on  th^ 
Ilth  of  April.     I    had  ulm  travclk'd  rapidly  in  order  that 
only  n   few  days  mi^ht  olapt^L- Ix-tween  Ibodute  of  my  dv- 
parliire  and  thiit  of  my  arrival  in   Sicily,   where  I  laD(l 
on  the  17th. 

Tli«  t{i^ol(^?i<^l  ohnriioter  of  the  soil  is  tlie  flame, 
carenus  in  both  regions.  The  great  dilference  ia  that  the 
Rivicrt  is  pn>tcelod  from  the  north  hy  moimtains,  ov 
whioh  cnme  dry,  mid  ivinda,  and  it  open  to  the  xoiithe 
Bnn,  «iid  to  the  south  winds  after  they  have  cronsei]  t!ti 
Mediterranean— whereas  Palermo  is  exposed,  without  inji 
protection  whatever,  to  the  north,  north-east,  and  nortb- 
weot  winds,  which  must  pan!*  over  the  Modittrntncan  to 
reach  it,  the  aniphitheatre  formed  hy  the  barrier  of  tooan- 
taina  openinic  out  towards  the  north. 

'Hie    result    of  this  inventipntion    wiw    the    convic 
that    th«    mon-   oouthi-nt  latitude    of   Palermo,    witlioa 
tnountain  protection  frr-m  the  north,  gives  to  it  as  wann 
winter  climate  iiis  the  Kiviirra  rnjoy«  with  protection  froi 
the  north,  Imt  not  a  wurnier  one.     The  two  regions 
to  be  singularly  identical,  consideiing  the    distance  thai 
eepanilM  thcin,  an  rvirnrdM  the  clmmctet of  tJieit  veg 
tion   and    its  development,   hut  their  olimata  are 
dilferent  in  other  rorpoet*.     The  situation  of  Palermo,  mi 
the  southern  part  of  the  Mcditerratiean  and  on  the  nortlbl 
shore  of  Sicily,  gives  it  neecssarity  a  moist  winter  elimAtvl 
instead  of  a  dry  one  like  that  of  the  Kiviera.     1  wdt  du«| 
explain   the    data    on    which    theae   views   are    foundc 
FwoTino  being  one  of  tJie  most  renowned  health  dimi 
in   tlte  south  of  Europe  every  fcatiirt  connected  with  it 
offera  great  int«rect. 

In  the  open  plain  south  of  the  town,  with  a  tborongliljr 
Borthem  exposoro,  but  sheltered  to  a  certain  extent  b/. 


^-EOETATION  AT   PAI^ERMO; 


417 


the  city  itflclf,  1  found  (April  litli)  the  same  everjfreen 
Ireo  vpjfeliitiwn  w  in  the  more  Bheitered  regions  of  the 
Riviera — lari;e  Lemon,  Orange,  and  CnrouW  tm-s,  growinjf 
freely  aud  liixiiiianMy  nn  timhur  ino*.  ll  was  qu'iU:  evi- 
dent Ihat  in  dcwa-ndini;  south  I  hud  veached  a  reiiion 
whcrtr  lutitudo  alone  g^ve  the  immunity  from  frost  tliiit 
on  tlio  Riviera  is  si-curcd  meri'ly  by  siin  expnuin'e  and 
fxceptionjil  filidtcr  from  the  north,  an  immutiity  necessary 
to  the  well-being  of  thise  trees.  Still,  even  here,  tlie 
Lemon  and  Onin;^  groves  wen  at  Mine  disUnov  l'ri>m  tlie 
eeft,  ond  occupied  the  niur«  nun-exposed  and  tilieltered  point* 
of  tliu  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  moiintAins  ;  they  were,  more- 
orer,  all  btit  invariably  surronnded  by  high  wallH.  These 
walls  were  deElincd,  rvidcnlly,  not  only  t<i  proU-cL  lliu  fruit 
ond  trees  from  spcHiitiun,  but  also  to  shield  tliem  from  the 
north  or  fca  wind*. 

The  deciduous  trees  were  Ktill  Iwhindhand,  indeed 
Ecin-cvly  an  far  advanoi'd  a»  I  had  letl  tliein  on  the  lUvicia 
BIX  davM  previous.  The  Hawthorn  bad  not  liloimomed,  and 
the  Fitf,  Mnlberry,  and  Plane  trees  were  only  jiisl  l>c^in- 
ning  to  show  tlieir  Icuvec,  Many  dedduouH  trues  pccultar 
to  ihe  i^oulh  were  totally  devoid  of  leaver, 

The  itotanieal  Garden  is  only  a  hundred  yanU  from  the 
shore,  on  Ihc  cast  tiiile  of  the  eity,  and  allhi>u;;li  it  has  no 
other  protevtion  from  tlie  nortli  and  from  the  «ca  brecxe, 
than  tliat  ufTorded  by  a  (tve-fcet  wall,  the  Mpriii^  Dower 
vegetation  was  in  exactly  the  same  slate  of  advmiCL-inent 
that  I  had  left  it  in  the  moat  ohelterod  nooks  of  the 
Kiviera,  ouvh  as  Monaco,  Mentone,  Sun  Uemo,  and  Alaesio. 
At  the  same  time  these  flowers  were  certainly  ticitiicr 
more  advanced  nor  more  numcroti«. 

ThuN,  I  found  in  it,  an  alio  in  the  fin«  (garden  of  the 
Princess  Butera,  and  in  sereral  otJicrs  which  1  vi«it«d,  the 
foUoninj;  tlowcrs  in  full  bloom:  Salvia,  Iris,  Knse,  Bengnl 
and  IbnUaia,  Wallflower,  Anemone,  Petunia,  Verbena, 
Mignonette,  Suoflower,  Gladiolus,  Spines,  Navtiirtium, 
Poppy,  Mariifold,  Geranium,  Candytnit,  Hollyhock  (thivc 
feet  iiigh,  but  not  in  blossom).  Stock,  Carnation,  Tuiip, 
Peony,  Auricula,  Cyclamen,  KschschoUzia,  Jiidae  tit^-, 
CbestQut  tree,  KIdci  tree,  HatvtJiora  (alwut  to  bloesoni), 

>  K 


418 


SICILY, 


Alysttiini,  »tim1)1)r  Enphorbinn,  Janmiiium  revoliitum, 
Xetllw,  anil  iVsjdiodel.  All  tliwu  flow«rti,  diniliH,  niid 
trcM  I  hnd  left  equally  advxiioed  atiJ  floumliing  nix  days 
pnvioiisl}- on  the  Riviera. 

Pcacliut  vtete  ^vt  a*  large  M  iimnll  wii1nnte,Sttswb«rTia 
were  eert-e<l  in  iirufimon  at  «!vi-iy  mxiil  itt  the  hotel. 
Orsni^eB  woiv  niimprous  aiid  Grst-rati-,  swcvt  aiiil  juicy. 
I  miiy  hvxc  mrntiou  that  throughout  Sicily  it  la 
cuslOTii  to  rnit  Httnwberritiii  ulong  with  *u<;nr  nnJ  thcjiiH 
of  an  oniii)E«  or  two.  Tht>  etrawbeiriea,  wliut  we  whoal 
cn11  wild  nr  monntjiiti  strnwberriea,  oomo  to  table  witlion 
tlii'ir  HtidltH,  art!  I'rushod  with  whito  poundod  sugar, 
the  juice  of  an  oranaft"  ia  »|Ui.>fxoil  ov<!r  tlHin.  The  n 
is  n  moflt  fi'iiifrant  und  a<nvejble  compound,  much  sii|K!rior> 
in  my  opiiiJDn,  to  Btriiwl>ernra  and  cream.  Indeed, 
think  i)  i*  all  hot  worth  while  to  maki.'  h  joiirn«y  Co  Siif\ 
ta  be  initialed  into  this  oioilo  of  eatinj;  utrawltcrriw. 

The  flowers  nbove  nam«d  are  those  that  bloom  in  our 
climate  between  April  und  tlio  early  part  of  July.  SnniL*, 
tho  early  Uinii",  mifrh  a*  Anemone*,  were  ^int;  off;  otiien;, 
and  princijiully  our  June  tloiveni,  were  in  foil  ItiviiriAnc 
Tills  advanced  condition  of  spring  nnd  early  summ-'r  t\a<m 
Yceetation,  and  the  rather  late  and  retarded  etAte  of  the 
doeiduoiiK  tree  vvgetution,  inilicnte  llic  warm  tlayu  an 
rather  oold  nightd,  withoutali^oUile  froat, tbatohanict^rb 
in  winter,  the  protected  re^ons  of  the  sonth  of  Eurof 
Tho  sun  is  ardent,  and  warmo  the  Rurfaoc  of  the  aoil,  but 
ihe  ni^htH  are  coo),  not  to  «ay  cold,  and  the  snn-beat  doea 
nut  ]>enetrnte  deep  cnoug'h  into  the  earth  bo  reueh  the 
roots  of  the  tree*  until  the  apring  be  far  advunciKl. 

The  Botanical  Garden  iteell',  at  Palermo,  altlioiigh  in- 
teresting, was  iu  rather  a  neglected  state,  and  showed  the 
want  of  eneri^otic  modern  direction.  Tho  plaiit«  were  sttl) 
cbsnified  according  to  the  Linnnan  system,  aa  at  the  be- 
f^inning  of  thiai  century.  All  the  trees,  shruU,  and  pUutta 
in  the  ^ound  n-ere  unhtbelled,  and  [larl  oidy  of  thon  in 
fota  were  bo  Imnonred,  Many  of  the  lahelit  themtielvi'R 
wei«  iilet^bk)  from  niHt  and  time.  Indeed,  tho  garden  struck 
mc  as  bring'  in  a  fireat  meatiiirp  left  to  common  {;ardunets, 
and  wanting  the  direction  of  a  icicntiGc  modern  botaiiiat. 


RAns'FALL  AT  PALERMO. 


410 


Oh  iturveying  nurowly  the  eliore  and  tlio  eides  of  the 
mountains,  1  waa  §truclc  by  th«  ubwitcc  of  ttiu  »unrr(-il, 
wator-vrorn  ntvtncs  which  are  Keen  nt  every  mile  alonji;  tho 
KivivTS,  or  ulon^  the  eidea  mid  uL  the  foot  of  tho  Apen- 
ninea,  aud  wliioli  are  theevidoqce,  io  sConv^,  nf  Uie  Cropicul 
niaa  of  these  rc^^ons.     M(>revv«r,  the  ftidcH  uf  llio  weatLTti ' 
•UD-espOscd    moiintuinii   vreru  eloUieil  nitli    verdure  f/om 
^^tlieir  bJiBe  to  tlieir  eummit,  more  like  th«  basiiltic  hilU  of 
^■tiit?   west  coast  of  ScotL-md   than   llic    sunburnt,  nuked 
^Buoimit*  of  Iho  Riviera  DiouiitainM,  the  geological  ioruia> 
^^Baon  being  in  both  enaes  th«  name,  calcareous. 
^B    To  mjr  now  rather  experienced  eyo  tho  verdure  of  thv 
^fltionntttin  sides,  and  the  abiiciicc  of   wiiler-worn  ravinv-K, 
indicate  a  moiitcr  olinnitu  than  that  of   tho  lliviera,  and  ' 
buti>lien  rain  falling  oltener  and  leas  abruptly.     On  iurjuirjr! 
from  Dr.  Moecuzza,  a  leading  physician  of  Palermn,  and  »| 
very  eolightenvd,  experiuiiui-d   man,    and  on    uontulttni; 
Froressor  Sutna's  valiiiible  work  on  the  meteorolog)'  iin<l 
climate  of  Palermo  ("  La  Topo;frafia  di  Palermo  e  de'  suoi 
Contomi,  ISlt^")  which  Dr.  MoeciiKxn   ^favc  m^   I  found  I 
that  KUol)  in  rcutly  the  ca«c,  that  thv  winter  clininle  of] 
Palermo  is  mild,  but  damp  and  raoisl. 

At  Palermo,  according  to  Profi-esor  Scina,  there  ar«- 
131  da)8  io  which  miu  falU,  and  thcHt  rainy  dnye  are' 
principally  iit  tlte  winter.  At  Malaga  there  are  only  40, 
at  Nic«  60,  at  Mentone  60,  and  even  in  London  only  145, 
Yet  only  i!l  inches  of  rain  fall  at  Palermo,  which  is  about 
the  uveropi  of  Ijimdun;  that  of  Nice  being  Ha,  that  of 
Algiers  30.  These  facta  prove  that  the  rain  must  be  moro 
continued,  more  miutlin^,  more  like  that  of  the  northern 
regions  of  Europe,  than  u  the  cuae  uti  the  north  shore  of 
the  Mediterranean. 

Tho  greater    rainfall    at   Palermo,  as    compared   with 

'       tfaat  of  the  northern  »hore  of  the  Medi terra neati,  and  the 

moiat  cbaraeter  of  it«  winter  climate,  are  explained  by  its 

I       geographical    position.     The    twrth-east    and   north-wc»t 

I       winds,  which  principally  reign  in  winter,  have  hod  tlieir 

moiiiture  precipitated  before  they  reach  Ibe  Mediterriineau 

by  the  snow-covered  mountains  of  the  south  of  Lnnipe — 

of  Italy,  of  CowoB)  Sardinia,  and  Upsua.    The  uioialuro 


k. 


■ 


420  filOFLr. 

which  they  contain  when  thoy  rctoh  Sicily  k  merely  wi 
thcj'  have  picked  up  on  their  siibieqiirat  pBRHace  nver 
portion  of  tliu  Med i term u can.  A^iiin,  the  first  ridjte 
of  ih«  moitnLniriit  which  form  the  Pnh'rino  amphU 
theatre  not  heinjir  very  high,  nor  their  tempi^ratiirv  iroiy 
li)w,  owin^  (o  the  latitude,  u  part  only  of  this  moUture 
is  tlii-rc  cnniiensoil  and  ;;cnt1y  prccipiljitcd.  As  the 
northi^rii  windf,  which  bring  Utene  mild  rniiitt,  hiivn  crossed 
it)  winter,  M  we  hav«  seen,  the  snovr-oUd  summibi  of  the 
Apennines,  Alps,  itnd  Pyrenees,  ami  of  thu  moiiiitain  ridjjes 
of  Spiiiii,  of  Corsica,  »nii  of  Sardiniil,  they  wmilil  b.i  mticb 
«>)ih-r  were  tliey  not  warmed  by  passing  over  a  track  of 
warm  sea. 

The  nliove  facts  clearly  point  out  the  charnctcr  of  the 
winter  climate  of  Piilermo.  It  cannot  he  very  cold — 
imlecd,  it  oan  scarcely  ever  (ncte,  as  the  Lemon-tree  thriven, 
hofoming  a  Urjfe  tree,  in  the  open  sir,  and  a  few  decreet 
of  frost  kill  it.  The  nights,  however,  beinj  cool  from 
Dccemlicr  (n  April,  aud  the  Kiin-hcul  hdng  conoid crahie, 
the  daily  tnmiiitiou  of  tempi-ratiire  must  he  markLKl,  ax  on 
the  Riviera.  But  instead  of  beinj;  dry  and  bracing,  as  ii 
the  climate  of  the  north  Mediterranean  conxt,  the  climata' 
of  Pularmo  mti^t  he  rather  miiist  and  rcl:ixi»<r.  Oh  refer- 
ritiyr  t<)  Professor  Scina's  work,  I  find  thew  deductions 
thoroughly  c-irried  out  by  the  data  he  udviinL-ci>i, 

The  mean  winter  tem]>orati:re  of  Palermo,  like  that  of 
Napii'S,  if  higher  by  sonjc  degrees  than  that  of  Ihf  Hiviera. 
1  presume  that  in  both  localiticfl  this  fact  is  owin;;  to  the 
greater  heat  of  the  day,  and  to  the  lc#tcr  cold  of  the  night. 
Aloist  nights  nre  always  warmer  than  dry  clear  nights 
with  north  winds;  it  is  partly  due,  uho,  to  the  occasional 
prevalence  of  the  scirocco,  or  south-«a»t  wind  from  the 
A fiican  desert.  Tiiis  wind  always  greatly  raises  the  tem- 
perature cverywheit-  while  it  lusts,  and  is  ■  source  of  much 
diocomroii  and  dietii'ss  to  the  etitiro  community,  to  the 
sound  as  well  as  to  the  niisound.  Indeed,  the  increasing 
heat  and  the  mure  iwrnietous  character  of  this  African 
wiikI,  tw  we  go  south,  in  the  wortern  regions  of  the 
Mediterranean,  to  a  certain  extent  counterbnlduce  the 
advantages  which  may  be  gained  in  other  respects. 


n 


WINTEB  CLIMATE  OF  PAL£fUIO. 


4il 


I 


Su«li  a  w!nl«f  climate — t«mpernt«,  sunny,  and  rnthof 
ncnst — may  he  Itcni-iioiiil  to  n  oertaiii  cliuw  of  piit.iciiU,  to 
liiglily  ticrvmiK,  oxuiUible,  i in presuo liable  constituliane,  tou 
inucli  braoed  auii  &Umiilat«d  bjr  the  dry  tonic  almomiln-To 
of  the  itivieni,  and  with  wliom  the  liradii^,  iitiinululiii^ 
cltmitttt  of  Otiinm,  Nice,  &lLMitniic,  or  of  the  east  coast 
of  SjMtn,  does  not  s^iee.  But  I  do  not  think  it  )}o»ifibly 
oun  Ic  Ju)  boncticia)  to  those  who  rojiiiro  invigorating  and 
vitalizing,  to  those  who  an:  nulfLTiug,  like  thu  phthisical, 
I'lXiR]  defuctive  nutrition  and  lowered  vitality.  In  tbeenrlicr 
and  cunible  stages  of  pbtbisia  ]  am  persuaded  that  the  dr^ 
invi^rutin^  cliniat«  of  tJ)e  Riviera,  or  of  fatturn  Simin,  u 
fur  pniiurublu  in  the  great  majority  vf  canet. 

I  should,  however,  be  inclined  to  advirie  a  trial  of  the 
vtimate  of  Palermo,  in  preference  to  the  north  or  east  coast 
of  the  Mudit«rmnean,  in  suvcro  casks  u(  H)>tumodio  iuler- 
niittent  neuralgia,  in  apai^modic  idicipathic  aathina,  and  in 
owitv  of  pbtliisiti  aocoiii)Kiaied  by  muuh  nervous  irritability,, 
or  by  a  constant  tendency  to  htDmorrha^c.     These  uru  tb« 
forma  of  disease  that  do  not  ajipcur  l»  do  wtill  with  ut  on 
the  Uiviera;  and  if  ihe  cause  is  the  dry,  and  to  them  tbc 
exciting,  chaniuter  of  the  cltmatv,  it  ittunds  to  reison  tbatj 
an  ec|uiilly  mild  and  a  oiuro  moi«t  utino-pliero  may  be  wlmb^ 
they  require.     The  winter  climate  of  Palermo  appean  to 
hold  a  medium  position  bctwooii  that  of  Pan  and  tliut  of 
AIa<kira.      It  in  much  wiirnicr  than   I'aii,  and  much  colder 
than  Madeira — at  Wit,  the  nights  tire  inuuli  colder. 

From  what  precedes  it  is  evident  tliat  the  climate  ati 
Palvrmo  eanaot  take  the  place  of  thut  of  the  Ueiioeso 
Uiviera,  and  that  it  i»  not  on  KuitUil  to  the  common  ran  of 
consumptive  cases.  At  the  nme  Itine  it  is  eqmilly  dear 
lliat  tlit^re  are  fiome  forms  of  disease  in  whii-h  it  is  sjiecially.i 
indicat«d,  and  in  which  it  may  be  of  grcnt  tuc,  aiid  thut 
more  espedally  when  the  Kiviera  (aiU  to  alfurd  relief. 

I'ltlermo  is  by  far  the  largest  and  the  most  interesting 
(tity  in  Sicily.  The  hr-Jiiily  of  the  nmphitheatru  in  which  it 
is  situated,  and  the  shelter  atfurded  by  kt«  port,  luigcr  and 
better  in  olden  times  than  now,  have  nlwayu  made  it  an 
ini[>ortant  and  fiLvuurit«  city.  When  the  (jreeks,  the  Car- 
tbu^iuiuns,*and  the  Homaiut  tueccnively  occupied  Sicily, 


SICILY. 

Palermo,  howerer,  did  not  enjoy  tlie  «iinc  amount  oT  pro*- 
ppiity  tbat  it  subeequently  uttaincd  duriug  the  reiffii  of  lite 
SuniccnM  «iid  of  tlia  Norman  kings,  and,  lattrr  Btill,  under 
the  Sjmtii^h  iind  Neapolitan  king«  iiiid  viccro)-*.  It  wiw 
the  capital  of  Sicily  during  the  sway  of  tliL-ae  i>ucc«s«tve 
ilyna^tu'^,  niid  is  replete  witn  the  vestiges  of  their  dominion, 
Thu  older  clinrcln'*  iind  pnliUH-s — inilecd,  neiirly  all  ihu  re- 
maiisii  of  iihti<)utty— ^bto  fmrn  Sarnocniu  anil  Nurinan 
periods.  Many  of"  them  are  very  interesting  e|>ecimeii8  of  ^^ 
tliti  Normiin  architecture  of  that  dav,  modified  by  conluci^^f 
with  Ua*  Siirncciiic,  Byzantine,  nnii  Gredt  vlykiii,  wtiicli  ^^ 
were  in  the  a-cendant  when  the  Norinatis  cotiquercd  Sicily. 
Thu  III ugiii lice nt  cathedral  of  Monreale  is  the  finest  example 
«xtunt  of  tills  blended,  or  Sicnlo-Norinan  rtylo  of  arvui> 
teeture,  as  it  haa  beea  called. 

Sicily,  the  larseet  and  most  fertile  island  in  the  Medi- 
tcrrunciui,  hns,  like  Corsica,  been  the  prey,  the  hiilth- field, 
»f  the  various  powers  thnt  have  reigned  in  the  Mediler- 
ranean  during  hiMorio  time«.  Hut  nnlike  Conica,  althniieh 
mountai  nulls,  it  him  no  jirioieva)  forests,  no  iiiaceessilHe 
«nou-clad  moiinlaius,  in  vhich  its  population  conid  take 
refuge  when  norely  ]>rcwicd,  and  perhajx  not  kucIi  u  war- 
like ]HipuIiilion,  ito  tliiit  it  was  alwaj's  eventiiHlly  contpiured. 
The  Greeks  culunixed  it  ^eren  ocntiiries  before  Christ,  attd 
built  many  splendid  towns  on  its  i^oiitliem  and  oMtem 
ahom,  thotie  nearcut  to  Gn-ec«.  It  is  on  thrac  MhnreM,  at 
Syracuse,  Agrinfentum,  Selinns,  Segesta,  and  elsewhere, 
that  are  to  bo  fwn  to  this  day  rcmninit  of  Grecian  tvmpica 
ac  numerous  and  ahnoHt  an  K|ilendid  as  thuR<  to  be  found  in 
Oreeoe  proper.  These  prosperous  commuuities  exciled  th« 
envy  and  cupidity  of  the  CArtha^inianic,  the  site  of  wl)o«o^^l 
empire,  on  the  oppD>ite  African  coattt,  w;ui  too  near  for  their  ^^| 
iiafcty.  They  were  attacked  and  con<|uered,  but  their 
conquerors  Boon  fell  before  the  Romans  in  the  Pume  wars, 
and  fficily  remained  loDf;  a  part  of  the  Roman  empire. 
After  the  fall  of  Rome  Sicily  became  subject,  •ucoetiaively, 
to  the  VaiKlaU,  to  the  Byuntines,  and  to  the  Saracienaj 
nUvjj's  falliti};  into  the  hands  of  the  strongest,  The  Nwr- 
oians  at  the  time  of  the  Ctustulvf  drove  the  Sarac«n)>  out  of 


HISTORICAL  ANXBCBDBKTS. 


423 


Dit'JBlitnd  Mnd  eatal>1iahe(]  tb«  Norman  dynasty.  Thea 
OMBM  un  interminable  army  ol'  kJn^s  and  viceroys  Wong* 
inj;  to  th«  impcriiil  Iiouki!  of  CiuniMiiy,  to  the  Iioiihm  of 
Anjou,  of  Anipon,  of  Savoy,  of  Austria,  ol"  Spain,  of  NupUr*. 
eDdin){  in  Italia  Unila,  under  the  "Itc  •>;iilnntiioini>," 
Viclor  Emmantisl,  with  n  more  gloriotu  pnupitot  i'or  the 
future  than  fivcr. 

Poor  Sicily  1  The  list  of  its  con()uerors  and  f^vcrnont  is 
purfuolly  oppressive  to  tlia  im»<;iniitiun.  It  inuKt  iiiile>ed  be 
u  liL-:iutitul  and  fertile  cuiintrj-  to  liuve  beeu  wortb  so  niuoli 
contention  in  past  times.  lu  tbe  days  of  imperial  Itomv  it 
Wfui  often  called  the  (i^ranary  of  the  umpire,  iiml  i^  titill  ona 
of  lh<!  most  furtiJe  nnil  most  favoured  spots  in  tlii;  Alvditer- 
ruiii;iin.  Under  good  ^rcrnmcnt  it  will,  no  doubt,  in  the  j 
coui-se  of  tiinu,  arrive  ut  a&tate  of  uro^pcfity  of  which  il« 
pruscnl  inhabitants  bav«  no  cONOepiion.  It  hastvithin  itoelf 
a\\  tbu  ulemciitK  of  fertilitv  which  miidc  it  rich  and  populous 
in  the  days  of  Greece  and  Koine — a  itiild,  bcuutiful  clinuta, ' 
a  fertile  soil,  a  splendid  posiliun. 

'J'lie  town  of  Palermo  in  very  regularly  built ;  the  «tTMtt 
ore  wider,  liundoomer,  and  cleaner  than  thiwt-  of  u»y  town 
tliitt  1  have  visited  in  the  soutb  of  Kurope.  In  aildilion  to 
tite  Via  Toledo,  which  piutsve  through  the  centre  from  north 
t»  Boutb,  dividing  the  cily  into  two  ^tniit,  there  i»  another 
atreet,  equally  fine,  the  "  Siradu-uuova,"  wbidi  pu»sea 
ibruii^h  )t  at  ri<;ht  anjifles  to  the  former,  from  west  to  cast. 
Tlicse  two  lar^ru  jitreet*  adil  greutly  to  th«  beauty  of  I'lilfrmo, 
and  make  it  easy  to  tJntl  one's  way  anywhere,  'llu-ie  U  a 
Movrixh  character  about  the  architecture  even  of  the  |irtval« 
bouit««  lliut  given  a  great  charm  to  Uie  place,  and  many  of 
the  shops  are  verj'  good. 

Tlie  Via  Toledo  is  ooutinued  hy  a  road  whioli,  emerging 
from  the  Noulhcni  cxticmity  of  the  ton'U,  gcntiy  aacenda 
the  fduin  for  four  mih-s,  witen  it  reiichtx  the  iiuhurban  town 
of  Moureale,  celebrated  for  its  bc^nlifut  Sieitlo-NormiiQ 
eatholral,  and  often  the  ^uliurluin  residonce  of  the  Norman 
kin;;8,  and  of  the  Spanish  viceroyn.  Monreale  being  nearly 
two  thousand  foct  above  tlic  level  of  the  Hea,  ia  cooler  than 
Palermo  in  uunimcr.     Tlie  views  too,  on  all  sides,  are  vei-jr 


424 


SICILY. 


cautiriil.     Thi«  rood,  nnJ  ihoait  !iloti»  tlie  sliore  tnvrni 
^[oiiltf  l*«lle;;riiio  and  Mi>nti!  (^lUlliinu,  uni  thu  luvuunUi 
(Irtvrs  i>l  tlitt  I'll lei'mi tuns. 

TIk^  roii<l  to  Afunrcntc  »  ]><.-c»luirly  pieturwqu«,  owiti);  Utt 
the   iTva;u^iifiD<-iit  ■Cfiiery  of  tltv   incMint«in  nni)>litthutilrv, 
whicb  lic-comes  more  anu  more  beuutiful  as  wt?  mcvile  froin 
tliu  evil,  und  owii)<;  to  tlie  extreme  luxiiiiance  of  the  ^vnlly 
tilting  plain  on  ntcli  «id«.     It  is  tltcxniiM  v«;;otnlioi)  that 
we  mu  at  Mentone,  and  in  the  more  iihelt«r(;d  piirt4  ul'tb 
Hivit-i-H,  htit  Fpraul  out  io  a  wide  t>'>i'<^n  jiUin,  iuatead 
o«!U|>)'iii^  II  Hvauidc  ledgv  under  hi^h  moiinUuas.     Oro' 
of  I.ei)ion  and  Orantre  treca,  iiitenpi-rwd  ivith  Urge  attit*! 
Caroulxis  niid  old  OUve  trec8>  and  thiL-kutd  oi'  Alo«a 
Prick  1y<|Kta TV,  are  trnvfincd.    Tbc  ground,  too,  when  1  Bai 
it,  WJin  one  c«r|iet  of  wild  llowcn>. 

The  town  of  Mooroale  ia  of  contidiiniUo  size  (popitta 
lion  lo.UDO].  It  liu«  f^uped  itself  round  the  n\ 
ciitlii^lnil,  bditt  by  one  of  the  eurly  Norman  kinijs  in  t 
yvAT  IIH£.  Till!  NoriiuitiM  found  8ai'tivoi)i>.',  Komim,  and 
Ureck  workmen  and  sroiiitM;tii  in  Sicily,  and  the  churclwi- 
and  ])alac«rs  they  built  esemplity  a  sin-fular  but  my  beai 
tiful  mixturo  of  nil  thvw  styles  of  iircltiteclun!.  Tbot; 
bonuu'cd  a  |icculiui'  rorni  of  |K>intvd  arch,  with  proH 
omiiitiL-tit  itiuu,  fi-oin  tlio  Samoeu  nnd  Muum,  a|MeH  tram 
tliL'  K<>tnuu:»,  mouldin^e  with  oraamentetl  citiiitnl^  from  th« 
GiM-ks,  nud  tno»uicK  from  the  DysuitioM.  Ami  yet  it  i:i 
from  thin  mixture  of  m>  nuiny  form*  uf  architectnrc  lliul 
iiutted  the  very  bcautiliil  ^tylc,  §o  gicoiliarly  their  own,  Io 
which  the  term  Sivulo-Nurniiin  ia  j^ivi-ii.  The  inoMaiwarc 
[-fr^ilinrly  riuh  in  the  ^fonreaU!  eallicdrul ;  they  uovur  uutn 
than  80,U0I)  fqunre  feet. 

Tlivre.  IK  u  lleiiedictine  monastery  adjoining  the  cathfr- 
Oral,  fuitndt'd  at  the  Game  e|>ocli,  whieh  eoiitjiinii  Nome 
raluitble  and  interesting;  pictures,  and  n  moeuic  oniameuted 
c'lui:>ter,  well  worth  visiting.  Connvetttl  with  it  is  ii  semi- 
nary for  the  education  of  youn^  priatU.  The  great  Sici- 
lian families  still,  as  iu  former  days,  semi  their  youn^^r 
«o»s  and  their  daughters  to  convents,  in  order  to  uceumu* 
late  Uiv  projierty  iu  the  hands  of  the  Lewi  of  the  houxo  t 
it  U  tJiv  vaxicat  and  ehcajtetit  mode  of  providing  for  tJiem. 


4 


k 


HON*RBAI.E— TRAVELIONQ  IN  THE  INTEBIOB.    425 


In  i)i^  (;nr(liMt  of  tti«  monnitUiry  I  raw  mimy  liMC-looking 
boy^,  from  leii  to  xixttieii,  in  tli«  prifHl'a  guwii,  1'huy 
iverc  priests  in  embryo,  Dot  throuj;)!  their  own  will,  or 
Irum  ri?li}{ioati  vocaUoti,  but  by  ibeir  parents'  duurcu.  I 
(.■oulil  not  help  pityiiig;  t)i«  poor  boyfl,  thus  ooiidenitied  in  ' 
childliiiod  to  a  life  wliidi  later  ini^ht  possibly  prove  a 
biiU-r  penuncv.  Tliuri-  uvc  also  many  convents  fur  women 
both  at  I'ulermn  and  Munruilv,  cngM  for  poor  ttntU'tiii^r 
huiDiiu  birdy.  If  a  sincere  religious  vocation  drives  a  luau 
or  a  woman  in  the  maturity  of  their  loti^ileot  to  a  cloititor, 
it  may  be  rcfpccted;  but  it  is  very  odious  to  lliu«  imprison 
and  bind  for  lilfi  mere  children. 

Although  there  are  roads  in  tbe  interior  of  the  ietand, 
tlii-re  am  bo  lew  travelers  (hat  it  Is  not  thought  worth 
while  to  |»rv|utre  for  them,  so  the  inn.*  are  mcie  wine- 
Bboi>a  for  the  muleteers,  very  mtwruUle  und  dirty,  uithont 
rcMouree*.  The  plan,  thiTeloro,  tor  triivcllcra  nWo  wish  to 
visit  tlie  anU<iiit[iL-n,  and  llie  intvrior  and  wmUieru  coosC 
of  the  island,  is  to  charter  a  vetturiiio  carriage,  and  to 
stock  it  with  eatables,  as  a  yncbt  would  bo  stocked  lor  a 
crutM.  B«ing  Dio>t  d«*iroiis  to  acv  all  tbere  wa*  to  bu 
seen  in  Sicily,  I  and  my  Uerman  friends,  who  proved  very 
nifrecable  companions,  a^^rced  to  travel  toj^flhcr,  and  with 
the  uK3>i«tancu  of  our  host  made  all  the  iicccuKary  prcjiatu* 
tinus.  \i>  a  preliminary  preoiuitioi),  I  called  on  tin.'  Eoi^- 
lisli  consul,  ivlio  is  also  the  banker,  to  oxchan-^  ^Id  for 
a  letter  of  credit,  hut  from  liitn  1  reucivvil  the  ur^'nt 
ndviue  nut  to  venture  into  the  interior.  lie  tald  me  that  a 
luvr  weeks  before  a  numerous  band  of  convicts  lisd  escaped 
from  tbe  p'lntoons  at  Girgenti,  and  taken  n:fu^  in  thw 
Very  mountninii  that  were  on  our  path.  If  we  utartwl,  wo 
ran  a  very  fair  chance  of  being  taken  posscssiou  uf  and 
detained  for  a  ransom. 

Ah  I  have  arrived  at  nn  age  when,  generally  speuking, 
"discretion  tempers  valuur,"  much  to  my  regret  1  gavo 
up  the  intended  excursion,  as  did  tliu  Gurman  Uarun. 
The  professor  and  his  pupils,  however,  were  muoU  loo 
eDthiisi;ij<tic  to  he  arrested  by  such  triUeit,  and  sturlci) 
alone.  As  fur  lu,  with  the  mental  resolve  to  return  at 
tStmn  mon;  peuovablo  tiiiM,  we  took  our  places  on  board 


42G  BICILY. 

tlie  Franob  Alexandria  eteamer  for  ITeeairuL  She  mme  in 
tliut  willing  <lir<;ct  from  Marsoilloe  and  proved  ■  epit&did 
boaL  We  slept  tvell  on  iKmnl,  and  tlie  next  nmniing, 
wh<>n  we  awote  and  i^t  on  deck,  found  oonelres  steamin); 
into  l)»e  [tort  of  MiM«ina. 

Tlif  y'uvir  of  McjR'iiin,  of  the  Straits,  nnd  of  Hie  mljoin- 
ing  mountnina,  on  i-nt^-ring  from  iim  Tjrrrtivnian  sea,  is 
lirrlecllv  eiicliantioj^,  and  so  dilleient  from  anythiti);  seen 
bcforti  tlint  it  rivvU  nil  the  fucullics.  On  a  ciilm,  Rnv 
morning,  tiuoh  a»  we  wen  favoured  with,  the  Strait*,  bctn^ 
only  a  lew  miles  acrose,  look  like  an  inland  lake.  On  the 
right  m  a  |]ir<^-^  liundsornfl  town,  oociipyiiii;  a  eumicirc'Iv  at 
tlie  loot  of  hitjh  and  troc-clad  hillc ;  on  the  lei),  or  eiut, 
riso  aUniptly  frum  the  sea  a  series  of  tnag;nillcent  moun* 
tain  rid^-9<,  whkli  rapidly  attain  an  elevation  of  F«^*en 
tlwusand  ftet.  Their  mckj  flunk*,  which  pnyent  lillls 
purooptible  ve^tntion,  all  but  {j^isten  in  the  Urilliant  snn- 
shine,  nhilst  their  summits  are  covered  with  sheets  of 
Hiow  (April  25).  Here  and  there,  ulin<>inf;  ae  it  wore  to 
tJie  side  of  the  monnlnin,  are  iiumeroun  vi1la<;<'^  iinil  townn, 
with  their  tall  churches  aud  citinpaDili,  telling  of  hidden 
tertili'  vallejii,  and  of  terra<H)  cultivation,  impeiveptihle  at 
ft  di)itiinic  To  the  Nouth,  iibove  all,  lowent  tin-  «iow- 
coVL*red  summit  of  Mount  Ktnu,  although  (Ifty  miles 
distant. 

The  port  of  M«v«inn,  probnbly  the  boirt  in  the  MediWr- 
nnean,  it  one  of  the  wonders  of  that  tea.  It  ts  a  va.->t  abyss 
or  dinsm,  produced  1>y  an  earthquake,  or  volcano,  four 
bondred  an<l  twenty  leel  deep  at  the  entnuic«,  lilUtl  by 
the  sea,  and  nil  hut  i-tosed  towurds  the  Stnita  by  a  nnrrow 
aickle-like  promontory.  Indeed  the  ]>ort  is  so  sheltered 
that  most  of  the  nnnierouK  VL-secle  it  conlainii  lie  quietly, 
merely  moored  to  the  <iuays,  without  anehurint;,  which 
they  eould  scarcely  do  in  such  deep  waters.  So  thoroughly 
does  the  promontory  which  nil  but  encircles  ihu  port  to- 
wards the  sea  imiliite  the  form  of  the  reaper'*  lionk, 
one  of  tlie  ol<U>«t  a^ritrultural  itnplenients,  that  the  ancient 
uumi>  of  Mewioa  »as  Zancle,  which  means  siekle  >n  the 
primitive  Sicilian  laiit^uii;^'. 

tiesNina  was  Doe  of  tlie  earliest  of  the  ooloiiics  founded 


MESSniA— EABTHQUAKES. 


427 


GrcfVe  in  Sicily,  and  in  mieeessive  ages  followed 
brtiin«!i  of  the  ixtimd  in  nil  tlicir  viirieil  pUiiw-ii.  Tliw 
imporUnce  of  tbe  situation  of  Messina  nt  th«  entrance  of 
thu  Straits  whicb,  in  all  historic  times,  have  biwn  the  liigli 
mod  beturcon  the  caitt  and  the  wc«t  of  the  M^diterr.tii»an, 
and  the  great  aecurity  oiror«d  by  its  port,  have  been  pt^i-- 
manont  sources  of  disaster  aa  well  ae  of  pTO«penty.  It  ha» 
Hi'ai'ly  alwAj-s  bt«n  tlit-  first  town  altai.<keil  ittui  l)c»ief:i>d, 
and  oft«Q  the  last  ri;tain«d  by  th«  diflerent  natiuna  that 
Iwivtf  c-on(|ueTed  Sicily. 

In  addition  to  sii-gua  without  number,  Meeeina  lius  also 
bad  to  vritlmtand  tlie  a««ault«  of  niitHrv'n  niyKtcriou* 
a^DcicB ;  lor  it  has  been  repeatedly  all  but  destitiyed  by 
nirth(|uiikc's.  Lyiajf  on  tho  line  between  Vesuvius  nud 
Ktnu,  it  liiu;  evur  been,  and  must  remain,  liuble  to  thcxi; 
tvrrestrial  convulsions.  The  turo  voleanDest  ttre  no  doubt 
connected  tmbturraneoiiely,  and  arc  the  result  of  the  same 
a^ucictt,  u  fiM!t  long  recognised  by  geologist*.  Tho 
activity  of  the  one  Uds  genonilly  eoiucid*-d  ivitii  the  <)uie!(- 
ovnco  of  the  other,  and  ri«r  veratf.  Far  more  than  a 
thousand  yeant  alW  the  doetruction  ofFomptni,  Vmuvins 
remained  <iui«t,a»d  during  that  time  Etna  was  active;  now 
whL'U  Vesuvius  is  active,  Etna  generally  remains  •))  but 
({uicMCCnt,  and  riee  t-crfd.  When  both  arc  i]iiic8i.-G0t  tlicro 
ia  danger,  and  tbon  woe  betide  the  lownn  that,  lilco  Meiuina 
an<l  Catania,  are  living;  on  or  near  the  volcano.  The  lost 
•crious  earthquake  that  occurred  was  in  17^3 ;  it  destroyed 
tlie  gTMter  part  of  the  town,  and  many  tliouMinds  ol  its 
inhaQtants. 

'file  combined  influence  of  these  two  causes  of  devssta* 
tion,  war  and  raithquabes,  has  made  Messina  a  modern 
oity.  It  has  tiet-n  no  olt«n  all  but  destroyed,  nil  but 
riUi^l  to  tJie  earcb  by  the  one  or  the  other,  that  it  has 
very  I'cvt  auti(juiti<« ;  most  of  Uie  building*  arc  moilrrn, 
or  comparatively  niDdcm.  Facing  the  sea,  on  the  wexteru 
fnde  of  the  port,  there  is  a  row  of  good  stone-built  houses, 
a  mill,-  and  a  half  in  length,  fonning  a  wide  crt-voenl, 
which  adds  greatly  to  tlie  beauty  of  Mewina.  Thaw 
houses,  at  a  distance,  look  like  one  long  and  handsome 
palueo.     Eightocu  Htreets  pa«s  through  wide  arcadta  in  the 


428 


SICTLY. 


tli«    , 


IwMiiinnt  of  tho  houMs  on  to  Utc  inariim  or  port,  vrithont* 
braaliin)^  iut  svmmetry,  or,  rutb«r  its  uuironnity. 

To  the  nortU  of  the  town  a  low  neck  of  land,  a  Mnd  of 
uindy  promootory,  advHiicc»  itito  the  sea  towardf  Uxo  iiiuin- 
kud,  until  it  Kovhe*  wUliiii  two  milex  of  tho  liitior,  and 
tjtus  foriQB  tha  nortb-eastern  or  Sicilian  entrance  to  tKfl 
Slraitfl.  This  is  tlie  WLOI-known  Cape  Pelonis  of  the 
nmrittnt*.  At  its  point  is  a  villiific  named  Fnro,  from  tl 
(ireek  Pharcw,  li){htliouse,  and  a  tower,  the  Torre  di  Fa 
Tliis  tower  long  served  botli  as  a  fort  and  as  a  li^hUiousC, 
Lut  nuw  X*  only  used  in  tlm  lattvr  cajMcity.  The  iii)eii-uU 
believed  that  Sicily  was  formerly  a  part  of  Italy,  aud  was 
torn  from  it  by  a  conxnilsion  of  nature,  tis  shown  by  tha 
verww  from  Virt;il's  "--Eneid,"  at  tho  licud  of  ihiit  chapter, 
ilodern  geologists  do  not  aocept  tlnti  view. 

The  road  from  Meseina  to  F^ro  akirta  the  shore,  atul  is 
vi-ry  fiTtileauil  pretty,  pngsiii^  us  it  does  through  gxotat 
of  Olive  anii  ()i'an<;e  trees,  with  frvqncnt  {jlimiwes  of  the 
blue  sea,  and  of  the  grand  Calabriau  moiintitius.  Tha 
i1ist.ii)e«  from  Messina  ia  abont  eight  mites,  and  tbis 
drive  ia  not  only  the  pleosantust,  but  the  roost  fashionuble. 

The  diittaooo  i'rum  th«  Faro  tower  t4>  tlie  maiidaud  i*  »a 
short  that  on  a  calm  night  the  crowing  of  thecocks  and  the 
bar!cin<;  of  the  dogs  on  the  Cnlabriun  coast  is  distinctly 
heard.  It  is  atati'd  in  biiilory  that  it  was  the  Mcssiiituns 
who  first  Bummoued  Count  Koger  de  llautevitle,  the 
Normiui  Bnrun,  to  defend  them  a<;Hiniil  the  Samouns,  and 
that  be  and  bis  followers  vrossed  the  Stmiisin  boat*  (1072), 
BwimminB  their  horses  by  their  side.  In  recent  iimeSi 
(jnriUtldi  crossed  from  Sicily  to  Uiu  mainland  with  tlvi 
remains  of  his  "one  tJiousand"  in  boats,  and  it  WM  on  the 
mountain  of  Aspromoute  opposite  that  be  was  wounded 
and  taken  by  the  royid  troops. 

It  is  in  tlic«c  Straits  that  aresiuintud  (he  famod  whirl* 

EDols  of  Charybdis,  so  dreaded  by  the  ancients,  and  the 
orrible  rook  of  Scylla,  with  iU  summit  in  the  cloiula,  aruid 
eternal  ti.-mpcsl«,  inaocvesiblo  to  man,  imd  its  base  deep  in 
the  sea  among  ravenous  sea  monsten.  Admiral  Smyth, 
who  surveyed  this  region,  finds  very  little  fouudnlJun  for 
those  poetical  fancies  of  Homer,  and  of  suhscixucnt  chtseioal 


CHARYDDI8  AND  SCl'LTA. 


429 


wrilew.    They  certainly  were  not  the  creatett  dangers 
poPi-  UlvBseB  had  lo  encounter  iti  his  wiimiurin'^. 

Tho  rock  of  Scyllii,  nayn  thu  Adniiro),  m  merely  a  water- 
worn  ro<;k,  like  any  other,  on  the  Cnlabrian  coast,  opposite 
Faro,  mirDionntcd  liy  an  old  castle.  The  whiHpuoI  of 
Chnrylxlis,  liy  the  Sicilinna  cfttled  '^garofalo,"  exiRta  near 
the  entrance  o(  the  Me&Biiia  harhour,  but  in  such  a  form  as 
to  be  only  dangerous  to  small  craft  in  the  hands  of  inexpe* 
rienci'd  mariners  To  the  nndecked  vcmcU  of  the  Rhcgianw, 
Zancliunt>,  and  Gicekn,  it  may  have  heen  foriniditlile,  for 
Admiral  Smyth  has  oeen  a  man-of-war  whirled  round  on 
its  Hurface.  It  is,  apparently,  the  result  of  a  conflict 
between  a  harbour  current  willi  the  main  or  tidal  currentx 
whioh  net  tip  anil  down  the  Straits, 

What  arc  much  more  dait^roua  to  the  small  vessels 
that  navigate  theM'  regions,  are  the  sudden  gtists  of  wind 
that  often  come  down  the  ^unriro,  or  dry  torrent  licdM  of 
the  ndjoinin^  monntains,  with  all  but  irreaietible  im- 
pctnonity,  and  cap*ir.e  ve^fcls  unprepared  for  tliem. 
Admird  Smyth  sayH,  that  he  hiiw  thus  overtaken  and 
capsized  a  6n«  barge,  wi(h  ei):liteen  lirst-rale  «atlonj  and 
sh  experienced  ofticer,  who  all  perished.  The  barge, 
which  bad  been  on  duty  with  the  Sicilian  llotilln  far 
yeara,  bad  been  taking  a  Oetman  Princess  on  board  a 
venel  bound  to  Palermo,  On  its  return  it  was  seized  by 
•0  snddeo  a  tqiiall  Ihut  Ihey  enuld  not  lower  the  inainuil, 
and  8h«  ioBtantly  cnpi^ized.  Tlie  bodies  were  picked  up  tito 
next  day,  thirty  miles  to  the  south,  nc.-ir  Taormina.  In 
MuKHina,  there  bus  l>een  found  a  (ireek  inseriptioit  lo  the 
memory  of  tbirty-seven  yontlis  of  ('yprua,  who  lost  their 
liiree  near  the  Faro  by  a  similar  difaster.  The  insoriptino 
says,  that  at  many  statues,  sculptured  by  Calion,  were 
creeled  to  their  memoiy.  lliua  wrre  the  fino  arts 
honoured  and  supported  by  the  ancient  Greeks,  and  made 
subx^rvient  to  the  eiructions ;  but  in  our  day,  wo  perhaps 
do  better.  We  do  jjot  raise  statues  to  the  memory  of 
youths  who  arc  neeidcnl4iUy  drowned,  but  we  not  un- 
fretpiently  think  of  and  luuk  after  their  mothers  and 
wives. 

Messina  is  the  great  central  rendezvous  of  the  steamon 


I  ;ueBt>i 


430  SICILY. 

tiiat  navigafo  the  eastern  vrat«rs  of  Uie  IkfcditcmiDMn? 
an<i  ■  very  floiirisliin);  city.  It  U  the  princi|isl  mm- 
nuircial  port  of  Sicily,  tin-  mitin  outliit  Ibr  the  Dorth- 
eaatern  |iart  of  the  island,  and  ex)iorUi  iinmoiiHC  <]uiintilte8 
of  oratiiik's  mid  luinoiit),  and  &  considerable  amouot  of  ooni, 
kilk,  «iil|iliiir,  Riid  winv.  Altliouf^Ii  a  very  beauUrally 
Eiiluated  camnieTcinl  eniporiitm,  it  did  not,  howvviir,  atrike 
me  as  ever  likely  to  become  a  winter  sanitariuni. 

Tiio  Cxlubrinn  mountains  rapidly  recede  to  the  eoutli- 
«Mt,  BO  llinl  buif-u-do/un  miles  belov  MMooa  the 
Straits  are  already  twelve  mtlen  ocrow.  Tbtic  McMKiaa 
noeive«  tlic  south-east  sun  in  full,  and  is  prot«ct«d  by 
nountaiii.t  from  the  norlli-WMt.  But  thon,  immmtiabely 
in  front,  to  the  ca-it  ntid  north-ctut,  there  are  thv  higli 
SDOtv-covcred  Caiabrian  mountains.  lu  winter  the  nnri 
nwi  wind*  mtntt  ba  very  cold,  and  there  must  consUii 
be  a  cold  down-draught  at  night. 

The  city  of  Meosina,  and  its  nortlieni  and  west 
fubnrbs,  show  this  iutluencei  tlifre  ia  iitl  but  a  eoinjilctc 
absence  of  the  southern  vctrctntion  of  Palermo.  I'ho  liiliii 
are  covured  with  Fir  und  Mmull  Olive  trocn,  and  the  Oran)^ 
and  Lciuon  trees  dieap)>ear,  or  are  only  obscrvol  in 
sheltered  corners.  The  Fig;  trees  were  only  bei^innine 
to  show  their  Icavvf,  the  Vinci  were  merely  sproutjntc,  and 
thcrc!  were  very  few  Howers  in  bloom  to  be  seen.  IndMil, 
the  pruiimity  of  the  rold  Calnbrian  mountains  appears)  tO 
have  liroiighl  tliu  northern  HuburW  inul  the  city  of  Messiut) 
which  ure  iu  the  same  latitude  as  Palermo,  nearly  to  tJte 
level  of  ManwUlos. 

The  motintains,  at  the  foot  of  which  M««sinn  i>>  situated 
ara  part  of  a  hu)rc  sedimentary  or  Neptunian  ohuin  tt: 
runs  riKht  through  ths  i»lun<l  from  enst  to  west,  along  t 
north  eoust.  These  mountains,  of  calcareous  formulioi? 
DzttRd  Kouth wards  along  the  cast  coast  fur  thirty  niilcd,  at 
tnr  as  Toorminn,  ju^t  as  the  Muritimo  AI|m  run  along 
the  Riviera  or  Geni)*  coast,  luiving  also  a  hIu'Iu-hkI  uudei^ 
clifT,  smiling  and  luxuriant.  Tbe  ooaut  itself  dip*  to  the 
soutb-west,  OS  will  be  seen  by  looking  at  the  map  of 
Sicily.     On  the  other  side  of  the  Straits  the  Calabriao 


igl. 


ed.     1 


THE  SICILIAN  IWDEECLIFP. 


431 


mountains  ra)HiIly  lose  tlieir  Rreat  altitude,  an<t  expire  at 
the  etid  uf  tiie  Italian  mninlnnd,  romc  Gllcvn  milvs  bulow 
iMtmsina. 

OwiiiK  to  tbe  above  physical  condition,  a  decided  under- 
cliff  or  Itivicra  comnumccK  nt  th«  eoutli  subitrliH  of  ^l(9«iin», 
protected   from   tlic  tiortJi  and  noitli-wwt   by   the   coast 
cltiiin,  and  gradually  Um  and  law  exposed  to  the  norlh-wist 
oa  it  descends  aouthwards.     Under  tlu-so  influenocs  of  pro- 
tectioD,  and  of  exposure  to  tbeBOutbeast  truii,  a  wonderful 
dianjtc  takes  plave.     Nature  buritt«  into  extreme  aautbern 
luxuriance  ;  not  so  much  on  tlteodvanoed  or  more  expo»ud 
headlands,  tvhicb  stdl  catch  Ihe  uorth-eost  wind,  oh  in  Uie 
intvrvvnin^  baya  or  sheltered  mvincx.     Here  vegetation 
at   once  a«»unics  a    very    advanced   southern   character, 
i^tatuly  Orange  trees,  aometimee  as  brife  as  moderate-«iz«cl 
Oaka,    and    Lemon   trcce  avorlop|iii)|;  twr>-iitoncd    honsM' 
bi-come  eominun.     I  saw  Oleamlui-  tivea  thirty  feet  high; 
the  white  Mulberry  and  tlie  Almond  trees  were   in  lull 
leaf,  and  the  latter  had  fruit  full  size,  evidently  Ktonin^; 
Fit;  trees  were  in  leaf,  and  the  fruit  lai^;  the  Vines  had 
made  aboots  four  or  five  feet  long.     What  ie  c*lled  the 
Daek  Mulberry  tree  was  KtiU  all  but  looflesa,  M  nt  lUerino, 
only  II   few  buds  and  teruiiual  leaveM  ap)>eanng.     Few  if 
any  oultivated  flowers  were  to  be  eeeii,  witii  the  exception 
of  Cainaliunsin  full  bloom  in  poteor  vases  on  the  biduiinics 
which  nKMl   hou:teii  of   any   pretention    poioewi.      Wild 
llnivera  were  numerous  in  orchards  and   fields,  and  pro- 
minent nmoiic  thcot  the  Gladiolus,  which  was  grou-iaj;  in 
great  piofuEiiou,     Barley  and  Oats    weru  ia  the  «ir,  ;ind 
Wheat  was  some  two  fei^t  high  ;  indeed,  spring  ve^'eiation 
wascertoiuly  more  advanced   than   I   had  seen  it  in  any 
.other  |)art  of  Sicily.     The  name  f^ivcn  to  a  vilUge  in  the 
more  souUicru  ]>ortioQ  of  this  region,   O'iitniiti   ^rdens), 
implies  tJie  recosnition  in  former  days,  as  woU  as  now,  of 
exceptional  t'ertinty.     Tbc  pliyMoal  eonditionii  are  the  Mim« 
as  IlKue  of  the  Genoa  Itiviera,  but  this  underclilf  is  livaj 
de$;reea  further  south,  nod  no  doubt  enjoys  a  still  warmer] 
summer  »utisbiue.     Were  Meraina  or  Catania  situated  ia  ' 
tilts  region  they  would  truly   be  exoaptionally  faTOurublo 


432 


SIOILV. 


winter  RtutioM,  but  unrortunatoly  titcy  on  not  slrtli 
from  the  north-east. 

In  ihe  midst  of  this  exuberant  fertility  tliere  ib  a 
niimi>rciiiA  pi>pnlnti<>ii,  which  nppcATcd  vtrj  poor,  H)uiili<), 
nnd  badly  f«l.  The  inhaliittiiiU  live  in  larp-,  dirty,  dvcajiid 
villa^,  in  which  it  would  be  all  but  impoeaiMe  t«i  make 
even  a  temporary  Koltlement;  8lt.hoi]<;h  cveryivhero  tiie 
fwnury  ia  glorious — rooks,  torr«nt«,  lunntiful  Ijuiyd  and 
promontoriea.  '  The  men  are  better  looking  than  tJi« 
\iomeii,  who  seem  to  have  even  the  beauty  of yonth  tn^nnd 
out  of  them  by  work,  in»ii(ltci«nl  food,  and  exponun?  to  the 
Bun.  They  wear  no  eoverinu  ou  tlieir  heiKJsi,  except 
occw>iotially  a  hnndkcrchicf  thron-n  oTer  tin*  hack  part. 
To  »crceii  the  ej-w  frum  the  ardent  min,  therefore,  tJwy 
oontract  a  habit  of  frowning,  which  ImpreaM'*  prematui 
wrinkk-fl  on  the  youDge«t  hrovf.  Thus  the  n'^  '>f  S 
apjieans  twenty,  the  woman  of  twenty,  thirty,  the  one 
thirty,  Kny.and  the  one  of  filly  a  hundred. 

About  thirty  inilea  from  Mi-tuina  th«  monnlnin  cliai 
leaves  tlie  coast  and  takes  an  inland  or  westerly  dire«tioi 
■tkirting  for  eomc  diktunec  the  northern  foot  of  (he  Etna. 
Althoui^h  the  undercUtf  coiuw*  with  the  town  of  Toormina 
and  the  village  of  Giardini,  its  protection,  and  that  of  thi' 
mnnntains  trandtn);  wt^t,  are  still  fdl,  and  a  rcfpon  of 
exul»-rnnt  fertility  meets  the  traveller  for  aoinu  miles 
further  on  to  the  south. 

The  .town  of  Taormina  contains  nnmvrous  antiquities 
which  arc  wt-11  deservinf;  of  I'xaminution.  The  moll 
interesting  is  tho  remains  of  a  Urcco-llomnD  theatre,  tito 
largest  in  Sicily,  and  <»w  of  the  best  prcvervwl  in  Europe. 
It  was  made  to  contain  forty  thousand  peranmi  in  the  da; 
when  Taormina  was  a  f^vat  city,  four  miles  in  ctreu: 
feretioc.  Thu  ancient  Taurominium  was  roiin<l«i  858  a.u., 
by  Ihe  acatt«rcd  descendants  of  the  inhuhitanta  of  ihe 
iiei^hbourinj^eity  of  Naxos,  rnKcd,  and  totally  destroyed 
by  Dionysius  of  Syracnse,  H'S  it.c.  The  Naxians  had 
incurred  the  animoaity  of  the  tyrant  of  Syrncune  by  allying 
themselves  to  Athens  in  her  wars  wiih  that  city,  and  hj 
l^vin(;  winter  qnartcrs  to  tho  Athenian  general  N 
Ikrevious  to  bin  ^iegeof  Syracuse  4I&-iU  n.c. 


w 


TAOBUINA — MOUNT  ETNA. 


43:) 


Naxos  w»«  the  firnt  colony  madt-  hy  the  Greeks  in  Sidly. 
735  BC,  nnd  wn*  ruumled  one  jeav  bolbre  Syr«i."its«.  It 
WW  liiiilt  oil  the  piomontory  c:illwl  Ciipo  Sgliiau,  a  few 
milee  beyond  Oinrilini,  on  uu  ancient  lava  etreaiD.  No 
ttacu  ol'  it  now  remuiufl. 

ItL'yond  Uianliiii  bcf^uti  th«  domiiin  of  the  kiDsc  of 
Europenn  volconon:.  Mount  Ktim.  No  better  view  of 
Mount  Etna  can  be  obtained  tlinn  from  thiK  pitrt  of  tito 
mad  Trom  McWna  to  Cutaiiiu-  I'\>r  tliirly  inili-n  itakirta 
the  i>a«t<-rti  or  Ma  buae,  the  eDlire  circuinl'eieiioe  of  the  haw 
«(  Mount  Etua  beinfc  120  miiee.  Thus  does  tlic  travi-Uer 
btcome  giadually  improssed  with  Uni  rcid  f;raiidi-iir  <(  this 
iQiiKnitiovrit  luoiintuin.  At  fimt  it  isdilGuult  to  beheve  tbjit 
it  i»  nearly  11,000  feet  bi^h.  The  rise  to  the  plain  ut  lliu 
auiiiiiiit,  lr»m  which  itsucs  tUi;  final  cone,  in  to  (;rii(Uial,  and 
the  liiimmit  plain  itdclf  extt^nds  over  mich  «ii  exteii.iive  urea — 
many  miU-a  from  north  to  south — that  tlie  i;reat  voleimu 
looks  murv  like  u  Know-oovvrcd  rid^  than  u  »iii<;le  moiiu- 
lain,  Tbc  miow  at  thitt  lime  of  the  year  covera  at  U-aat  the 
ujiiier  third  of  the  hii^fe  mounlain — a  vast  superticcs. 

The  moment  Giurdint  i*i  Idl  tho  wx-nc  cUan»i.-9f.  The  Koil 
is  merely  decompoited  lava,  u  mixture  of  lar^e  uuiaaetf,  like 
•wriie  or  alaj^  from  it  mauufaclory,  of  smaller  piecea  like 
dnders,  and  of  n  brownitih  l>)ack  ciirth  like  ii^Lgm.  Tlie  more 
indent  curretit*  of  Inva  teem  to  be  (^raduiiily  m'olved  into 
these  elements.  Whi'n  cultivation  t-ommences  tho  lar^je 
m8t#«fi  are  du);  tip  and  piled  fur  walls,  the  smalt  onen  aro 
uNed  to  Matatdainize  the  ruiulN,  and  the  nsh-like  du^t  eon-  ' 
Stitntes  the  soil ;  and  very  fertile  «oi]  it  appoarH  to  be,  morel/ 
Hiring  water  to  produce  anything  that  is  eovrn. 

The  southern  charauter  of  tile  vi-iTctation  rcMides  nnd«r 
the  coolinjc  iutluenco  of  the  vw»t  Miow-eovcrvd  plainti  of 
Mount  Etna.  The  Yig  trees  have  only  terminal  leavca, 
and  the  fruit  iit  very  sinull ;  tho  white  Mulberry  trees  and 
Vines  have  aUo  only  a  lew  leaves;  llie  bWk  .Mulberry  troi-s 
are  mere  sticks,  scarcely  having  their  budo  formed,  lieimm 
and  Orange  Irves  nIiU  appear,  but  only  in  shullvTed  valleys 
and  (ieprettoions,  and  are  otlca  proteeied  by  hi^h  walls; 
iieither  are  they  as  lur;>e,  as  vif^orous,  as  tree-like.  Tli«] 
Olive  tc«e,  boweverj  holda  Ins  own,  as  also  do  the  Optinliiu 

r  » 


sill 


4S4 


SICILY. 


•>r  Bsrlinn'  fifrs.  Tlie  ktt«r  aro  fxtpiwircly  ciil 
thniii->hoiit  Sii'ily  as  hedges,  and  for  the  wiko  of  llii-ir  Cntit. 
Tboy  {jiow  to  Ilio  height  of  some  twelve  or  lifti'on  ("eet,  in 
II  very  tiingiilitr  grote«qite  miiniiur,  iind  atftirt  tiii-ir  cliiim  to 
heing  dicotyledonous  phiiila  by  Lecuiiiing  ro^ulur  tnta, 
with  a  hrgc  round  trunk  and  bark.  Hiis  ImnsrormBtion 
(.!'  (he  Jlut,  t!<-sliy.  Icnf-nhiiiH'it  branches  in  (jnite  rcin«rk:ibK-. 

The  fteol'iaically  celfbnited  Val  dd  Bovt*,  with  it:"  dikes, 
is  ecen  iit  n  uiF^tiince,  a  wide  and  Ion;;  chasm  on  I  he  llankfl 
of  Xhv  mmintiiin;  bIko  the  OnU  (iiid  Clieittnut  rorects  below 
the  ein>w  line,  whit-h  ai>))ear  as  mere  black  patches.  A*  via 
nppronch  Cntania  the  very  peculiar  jfrim,  coul-mouth  cba- 
racUtr  of  the  rvgton  bccomcM  mort'  and  inoro  ap]>iin-iit.  Tlio 
walls  on  the  roadoide  and  in  the  Iti-lds,  and  the  oiit-houMMi 
Aiw  III!  made  of  clinkers,  the  road  ol  cinders,  the  soil  of 
A.>hc«.  Vinnvard^  arc  niimcroiiii;  the  Vint?* — imlwd,  limrly 
nil  plantii  in  Sicily— ^re  plant«d  in  the  6elds  hetuevn  ridet* 
or  nyramidH  of  the  loofie  blaeic  noil,  some  eighteen  incliw 
h'^h,  in  order  to  retain  inoisturc.  Even  wheat  is  planted 
in  this  way  in  lufls  at  the  bi>ltom  of  furrows,  and  between 
riJ(ri»i,     In  llower  gardens  the  same  system  is  rulluwe<l. 

This  soil,  formed  of  decomposed  lava,  appears  to  eoiitain 
nil  the  elements  of  luitritian  rciiuinjcl  fur  vegetation  ;  every- 
thing' Hocmin:^  t'l  lliiuriflli  and  thrive  in  it,  providei]  tbii 
lie  ivuter.  Tlie  ground  ve^tation  ^hoiva  less  dilli'tencelhl 
thiit  of  llic  tree*.  livnns  and  iViii'  are  ripe,  and  V.'tehi»  i^ 
full  blDCKom.  ljUiiiiiM,  ivtiiti-  and  blue,  aro  very  aliiindaii 
iind  are  extensively  cultivated  as  fodder  for  cattle.  Th 
Ili'llcborc  is  in  flower,  and  very  common;  Almond  tT 
arv  it)  full  leufj  and  the  fniit  ualiiral  atzu ;  wliiti!  and 
ConVolviiluiK  and  si\irlet  Poppies  are  abundant.  OceaHiiinally, 
near  nater,  are  Poplars  in  full  Icnf ;  in  the  sftmc  ^iluutituis, 
Cannax  h»v«  mw  nhoola,  three  or  four  feet  long.  Tliey 
|rrow  to  twenty  feet  or  more,  and  are  much  used  for  li»hi 
fenoin|9^,  as  supports  to  Vinos,  and  for  a  variety  of  simil^ 
pur|>o>%8.  fome^^nato  Uw»  arc  often  seen  from  ten 
twenty  feet  in  heijjht. 

Giartlini  l*  thirty-four  miles  from  Menina,  and  thirty- 
two  from  Catania.  The  road  for  there  thirty-two  miltn 
skirts  the   base  of  Mount    Etna,  and  is  everywhere  cc 


TDE  BASE  OF   MOUNT  ETNA. 


435 


I 


h  lava  in  diffciriit  Macr<n  of  <Iccay  ami  (lisiHti>grnti»ii, 
liiX(>r<lin<7  lo  llii;  time  ihat  haa  elapwd  gjuce  the  i-ruption 
ft  wliidi  it  owea  its  nrii>in.  lodectl,  the  soil  in  cntirvl}' 
volcanic.  (ieneiaHy  f^pruking  the  olJcr  Xht:  lava  tin"  grwiter 
the  <liKint*'!fi'ation,  hihI  tbe  easier  it  is  to  )inn»  it  into  culti- 
vntinn,  hut  tliis  rule  is  not  without  exception.  Some 
comparativf'ly  prcent  slreanw  *>f  luva  have  long  luseii  oiilti- 
vaktl,  whereat  others  that  have  heen  thrown  out  Ijelore  our 
era  are  nearly  as  sterilo  afi  at  fin>l.  Within  the  Wt  few 
miU-s  of  Cutnniii,  wheiv  tho  Hcpiinitioii  of  the  t'liiiketsy 
ciixlcni,  and  soil  lins  not  been  mnde,  rivers  ol'  lava  are 
criiMti),  lyin;;  in  manges,  in  mounJii,  in  Bticcts,  in  plains, 
and  prodncing  little  cUc  hut  Crwuluotw,  Thi-  li-rtilitj-  «!' 
the  lava  i»  evidently  the  rnkitlt  of  human  tnhoiir  eonilnuml 
with  arliticial  irri;^lion,  hrotitfht  to  bear  on  it  when  d«ca)*ed 
by  otmoephoric  inlluenow  and  by  time. 

This  fniire  eoast  powwaeti  a  kind  of  atranj^  fuMiimtion. 
On  till' one  »ide  iathe  blnveca  that  Eeparates  us  rrumltncce, 
on  ihc  iilher  the  immi-nw  miwiiorthi-  great  volcano,  tower- 
ing into  the  sky  between  two  and  three  mite*  abuve  tin;  »toa- 
level.  (irim  aa  tbv  lund«mpc  appears  with  ita  lava-dnst  aoil, 
only  here  and  tlicre  eonceahtl  by  a  itiKinw  vegetation,  it  Ja 
viewed  with  intense  interest.  On  every  aide  in  the  evideiioo 
of  innumerable eruptiono,  that  have  given  birth  loiiiniimer* 
ublc  fircRma  of  lavu,  both  in  hisloriv  and  pro-hialoric  times. 
In  some  locaUti<«  the«e  lava  rivi^ra  have  evidently  Howetl 
into  the  ec«,  tilled  up  iltt  depths,  and  pushed  bock  its  shonti 
lor  milea.  In  other*,  a«  nt  Aci  Renle,  the  lava  dilT,  six 
buntlred  feet  high,  has  clearly  beeti  partly  formnl  by  an 
uprising  of  the  coast  and  ol  Inva  streami)  previoualy  depocitAl 
ill  deep  water*.  Ln  th»e  ohll'x  aiv  to  Im  found  many  caves, 
into  some  of  which  the  seai  dunlies  witli  mysterious,  un> 
earthly  sounds  in  stormy  weather.  Uasaltic  oo'liimits  are  also 
to  ttc  tiven,  nearly  a«  curioiix  and  an  pericct  as  those  of  tne 
Giant's  Causeway  in  Ireland,  or  of  I'^ngal's  Cave  in 
Scotland. 

It  iM  in  tliis  region,  and  in  thai  of  Etna  in  general,  that 
the  ancienta  placed  the  earliest  evente  of  their  mythology. 
Sicily  itMilf  was  dodieatcd  to  Cerea,  tbe  goddi^-s  of  ugri- 
culiurc.    Jupiter  r«igned  on  Mount  Ktna,  and  it  was  under 

v  f  i 


43G 


sicnx 


Um  moM  thkt  lir  plicrt]  Uk*  revotte<t  Titnti  Unc>elu<lii3. 
oi>nvulsiv<!  iiiovemi-n(a  of  tli«>  <.tiih!ii'i1  Tilnn  n-orv  thv  cau 
of  it«  iTiiiilioas,  It  «aa  in  the  furtilt?  jituitia  of  Kiinn,  nt  the 
n'l^K1e^ll  liiuc  nf  Klnn,  thut  Proserpine  was  pluckin;:  Rowens 
wlii-ti  Flulo  <!umt^il  Iter  off.-  It  was  in  tliv  same  jilains  thai 
lived  Daplinis,  the  son  of  Mercurv,  who  iriv«nled  puatorul 
piictry  to  |>lciisc  Diaiin,  lUe  creat  iiiiiitrves. 

Tlve  Cyc1()|i  l>olyi)h<-miiK  liv<i)  iti  <in<'  ol  the  luvu  nowrni 
CD  tlie  c«ast,  fliid  thtre  piiisiii'cl  wilh  lii»  lovi-  tlic  nymph 
QMhitva,  who  pvi-fcrrt-ii  Ihn  nhcpheri]  Acie.  Polyphemus, 
in  his  tufce,  throw  u  vac.k  at  hii<  Dnforluiiiiti;  rtviil,  nnd 
thus  (Icslroyoil  him.  Acts  wa§  chiinK«il  bv  th«  pnls  into  a 
rivi-r,  1111(1  this  river  still  runs  through  thg  tuwn  oT 
iiained  alter  Uatuttu'N  lover. 

It  was  in  a  port  on  thi>  roast,  «liokc(l  hy  n  lava  stml 
in  the  Midillu  A^s,  lh>it  inysKuK  tonU  rufii<^,  and  fell  iDt 
lli«  hiinda  of  th(!  Oiime  Polji  phemui— 

"  Poilns  ah  nccMisa  vraitnriini  immotas,  «t  inKon* 
Ipm;  Hod  horrillcJi>  jiixtji  tuuut  vKtnu  nuuii."— jEx.  iit. 

In  tli«  sea  near  Aci,  arc  tvvni  lava  or  trap  iKk'ta,  remitrk- 
aide  fur  thv  nuiiit.-t'i)U»  liaiimltic  cdiiinns  thvy  tirun-nt. 
Tli«ae  tHieta  were  Lelievvd  by  the  nncii!nt«  ta  be  (he  very 

t)e«r  to  this  day  the  name  of  SfoffU  dti  Ciclojii,  rooks  <b 
the  Cyclops, 

Caliinia  is  a  larfre  and  rather  handsome  town  of  ei^fhty- 
fotir  tbotisand  inhahitante,  situatiHl  at  the  very  foot  of 
Mount  Etna,  wIktb  the  m-ii  appniuchca  the  nnrcat  to  the 
1mu«  of  lite  );reat  volcano.  It  is  all  but  eitcirvled  l>y  arms 
or  rivers  uf  lava.  At  llw  memorable  eniption  uf  illtIV  a 
vtreuni  of  luva,  a  miW  wide,  reiK-hetl  the  walls  of  the  town ; 
then  it  divided  and  owi-pt  into  the  sea  on  both  sides  of 
the  eity,  not  withotit  destroying  part  of  it.  Tin'  lava, 
where  it  reaehed  the  wit  just  two  cciittirio  ago,  >lill  looks 
as  il  it  luid  only  b«<!n  emitted  lu^l  year.  It  in  ]>iled  on  the 
ibnro  in  heaps,  like  tlioiiaanda  of  tons  of  ioid,  and  fpvus  a 
verv  grim,  coalpit-niotith  appearanue  to  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  ttic  town. 

Catauia  (ic«ir'  Acrvnci  under  Etna}  woe  one  of  th<!  va\ 


rocks  thrown  by  Polyphvinim  alter  lllyss^'s  and  hia 
□anions,   nitvr   \hvy  hud   otcapetl    from    his   cave. 


CATANIA. — EARTHQUAKES. 


487 


of  the  On^ek  colonioF,  hnvin;;  ki'cn  foun<lcd  probably  «l>o»t 
790  B.C.  IL  lutvii  Attained  (treat  wealth  itnd  pfospmiiv,  witii 
a  mimerDus  popiilalion,  owin^,  no  doubt,  to  iU  fvroximity 
to  tiroccp,  and  to  \l»  bsing  tb«  iiuluml  port  of  the  rich  and 
pop^iloii*  <liittru!t  of  lower  Ktna  and  of  tho  Mirro<iDtlin<c 
plains.  Atttiou'xb  maay  times  dcotroycil  by  tb«  Nwurd,  anil 
ffWD  oioru  rroqtiently  xtill  by  tbi!  cru{ilir)n«  of  it«  Trifid  and 
eiiemyt  Mount  Ktna,  and  by  the  ^irtlitjiukes  that  en  of^vii 
precede  and  Tolluw  tbem,  C'atani.i  hns  alwiiyo  I'crn  r<rl>iiilL, 
tA  r«(!aniinvnc<!  it*  otrei^r  of  proxporily.  In  ini>d>.Tn  times 
tile  most  ooinplete  diwlruction  wati  tliHt  comineneed  by  the 
eruption  of  16Q9,  which  overwhelmed  part  of  the  t>itvn. 
The  ruiu  wma  all  hut  t^mplcted  by  Uhj  «irtb<pinkc  of  I  OSS, 
wbieh  Maroely  ivft  uity  hixiMfl  ftAodiug,  and  buriod  tiUucn 
IbooMnd  perMim. 

Thia  tinw  the  town  was  rebuilt  with  oichitecturai  m<'4bod 
aim]  preoMion.  Mom  pcocernl  time  bnil  arrivL'd  ;  the  iteoCfl- 
sitjr  ofcrampin}^  the  city  betweeii  iiurruw  wnlis  had  oaased, 
and  Catania  woe  raboilt  with,  for  tJie  south,  wide,  handmine 
streelA.  Ilenou  the  moduni  appftirnnro  itiut  it  pruHent)'.  Il 
is  Huid  tliAt  ttiiB  open  style  of  arcbit«etun!,  ulibou:(h  pliumni; 
in  wintoi-,  and  at  all  times  healthier,  makea  it  insuft'eniblyi 
hot  in  snmmer,  tlin  more  ho  ns  tbu  strcetn  nmrly  all  run 
ruuuUrly  north  mid  auuth,  cnttt  and  wc«t.  From  iU  ixiiitli- 
•ittt  e)ipi>«ure  Culania  is  much  warmer  in  summer  tliiin 
Palonno,  which  liax  l\w  Iwnetil  of  tbc-  north  M-a  tvindf. 
The  maximum  h«il  at  Palermo  in  Mummeriivcra;riwK6°  Fah., 
whofe-J«  at  Catania  it  averi^iea  i^j".  At  Mentuiie  the  lo^xi- 
miim  only  reavhw  ttl*,  lesx  tlian  in  London  ur  I'arU. 

Catania  i»  tiie  n-«idi>nc«  of  many  of  the  Siriliun  iinato- 
cmcy,  some  of  whom  are  men  of  eatixi  dent  bin  wealth, 
Aven  aooonlint;  to  our  ideai*.  Aa  tliev  truvel,  and  ofl«| 
reaido  ■  part  ol  tiie  year  nbrcid,  they  attain  a  bi^i  de;trae1 
of  intellectual  eultivalion,  which  makes  thuir  Huetvty,  [ 
have  I>eL-ii  toU,  very  uvrrtwaUi!  fur  those  who  an*  admitted 
into  tho  inner  drcle.  Th«r«  is,  also,  an  •p|>eamnoe  of  life 
and  animation  about  tho  oity  wliioti  muot  oi>ntribut4  to 
make  it  un  ajcreeable  residenuu  even  to  ttlranot'ra. 

Ill  former  timr^,  in  the  days  ol'  the  (ireek^,  Svnica 
and   Uoraaiiii,  property  was  much  ilividc<l  in  ^tiuily.  wn 
■griculturu  ftourished  mora  tlian  in  any  [urt  of  Uurojio. 


438 


BICXLY. 


llivron  of  Syracuse  publnlied  an  a$;Rii-ian  co:lc,  wliic 
wiiB  coiiBidenil  m  putfeut  by  llic  ItomiinK  Hint  llwij 
iid<>]>UM]  it.  Dtirin^f  tlie  i)<tiniii)i>n  uf  the  Iiitler,  Stcilj 
was  «o  Tcrtilu,  antl  so  wry  prudiictiio  in  oervuU,  thnt  u 
becnnio  tlit'  ^riiiiury  o(  RumL-.  The  SaritvuiiB  etill  lurlbirr 
pruRiiited  aufteultiirni  [trcign.>ti9>  by  JnlnKluciiii;  au  iiitf>rovi! 
»>'Kti;m  of  irri|;ation  ana  various  new  epMies  of  cullur 
Ihe  con(|iii>Mt  of  Sicily  by  tliu  Xormane  tuul  ii  dinslnx 
result.  TliL-y  inlroduLieil  the  tcuJal  fyatvtn,  ull  but  t)ivulin_ 
1)u-  idliiiiil  bL-tvvi>ei)  puwerttil  buroiis  and  ecil^iaAticnl  oorpo> 
lulioiiK,  odvH  ii<:>ii-rv>i(li;iit:s.  A  lsr>;c  iimuiinl  ol  land  Ivll 
out  of  mlLivuliiin,  lUid  lu  imlis>-<|iJoul  gDVuminetitH  liiive, 
until  th«  n-ieiit  i'.i)l  ol*  the  Uuurbous,  encouivKml  thii 
•ocial  von<]irion,  a<>ricultui'e  han  n«vcr  btwn  ablv  Ui  rccovt 
itself,  or  al  liruKt.  to  iisf^utiK;  iu  Hirmtir  pwition.  Kvi-u  tutv 
many  oftlie  large  piMpmrtorA  k-t  their  estati-a  in  the  blw 
to  miildle-men,  who  let  and  suMet  until  the  hist  tvnunt ' 
gruund  to  the  enrlh. 

In  mvh  a  climnt«,  and  Hitli  i-nuli  a  fw\,  however,  pro* 
grew  is  Mure  to  follow  ^-nli^liti-timi.'nt,  iiiul  Llio  ti^nenilioa 
ut'  Italy  will  extend  by  decrees  to  Sieily.  Nu  doubt  tlia 
inci-vABcd  funlity  of  communiuition  which  pIv«i»  attotii^ 
nml  tin;  pro|)ii;;ation  of  the  ductiinui  »■'  IVtii-  tni>h>,  will 
grudnally  work  great  chunjiei  in  ihv  idea^^,  both  of  tfal 
turiitorial  nrii>tociuoy  and  ol'th«  nation  at  lar^i-.  * 

Mount  Ktnii,  eallL-d  MungiMlo,  or  niuuntuin  of  mmin- 
tuiuM,  by.  the  inodcni  StciliuiiH,  dm-K  not  overiibikdow  the 
town,  although  the  lutter  liea  at  it«  foot,  Tlte  fleeunt  ii 
EO  gentle,  oil  thia,  the  south  f'iile,  tliut  it  in  twrnty-nin4 
milvM  fnini  Catania  to  thu  »uniniit.  On  the  north  Mv, 
wb«ri;  tJie  itlofw  is  niiieh  mure  ubnipt,  there  are  poinU 
%th«re  the  ascent  is  ouly  twelve  uiiIm.  This  vloiM  i> 
divided  into  three  n>;;iuiitt:  the  ciillivaloil  region,  yirV  t/i 
moataaa,  or  <V'//<i,  whieh  exlenib  about  leu  miles,  and  is 
tlio  fertile  region ;  the  wouUv  re(fion,  rtgimK  tH!mi>ro*a,  or 
biMro.  which  vxtenda  wme  six  or  i-i^hl  uiileii  in  wiiltlij^ 
and  the  desert  region,  rtyloue  iltMrit,  which  eoinmeoctflj 
iiceording  to  Adtniral  Smyth,  at  a  little  ahuvu  nix  tlio«iMUia 
feet,  and  extends  to  iQflll,  the  height  of  the  centra  oune 
of  Ktoa,   oecoi'diDg   to    tlio   lueaautvmenia   of    Uie  aan 


Catania — vegetation. 


439 


•nthority.  In  wintci'  t!i<i  two  ujipur  regions  are  covureJ 
with  tttiow,  wliich  mimt  excrciau  k  iiiitrlccd  intluvotM;  nii  lli« 
cliiniite  of  Catauia,  nod  ot  tbe  plains  wliiuh  siirrauD<l  the 
base  of  the  moiintiiin. 

I  nnivi'd  ut  Catitnin  at  the  cdJ  of  April,  iiu<I  carefully 
esuiniiied  the  vc^eUtJun  with  reference  to  climale,  as 
I  hiid  done  at  rulcrmo.  1  found  two  gardens  worthy  of 
noticv,  OHO  on  the  port,  vliulU'nrd  tiiid  proteelcd  hy  ihe 
town,  with  a  tivulet  running  thniugh,  which  gives  an 
abuDihint  supply  of  water,  the  other  at  the  wnvent  of 
Bi.^nli<;tinw.  The  Itvnedtctjiie  monke  hiivo  ii  very  hand- 
some  ehureh  and  moniieitcry  on  the  iiurlh-wvKt4.>rii  limit 
of  the  city,  immediately  facing  Etna.  The  giviit  luvu 
ciirmit  of  166t*  submcr^^od  thi-  old  garden  and  stopped 
within  ten  twl  of  tlio  ehureh ;  a  miMule  the  nxnik* 
thought  due  to  their  pmyer'*.  The  pnwnt  gurdrn  is  Imilt 
oil  lliu  lava  wliieh  covers  the  former  one,  on  u  level  with 
the  first  irtorey  of  tlie  convent.  There  is  no  protection 
whatever  between  it  and  the  mouiituiii,  tind  nt  iit;;ht  a 
eold  dowD-drmi(;ht  must  set  in  IVuni  the  snow  n-;;iuii)i. 
As  u  result,  this  garden,  Potuitlislandinij  its  sunny  ex- 
|iosiire  and  low  latitude,  might  ulinosl  be  in  u  >lK-ll«i-ed  spot 
in  Kn|;hind.  The  Sowvn  wen-  only  the  euiliLtit  xpriug 
lloncrs,  «ueh  as  aDemoncs,  end  the  ;;«raiiiumB  were  ftil  in 
pot^  Indeed  it  waa  by  no  iuchuii  ns  advaiiocd  ui  a  garden 
it  Nice  would  be  at  the  same  ejwch  of  the  year. 
The  dillV-ronoe  between  this  gitrdeD  and  the  one  on  the 
*)iort,  protected  from  the  Ktnii  down-driiuglit  by  the  town, 
and  expiued  to  Ihe  soiith-eiwlei-n  »uu,  wh«  very  stiikin;; ; 
the  latter  was  one  mass  of  llowen,  all  jihitiU-il  out^ 
(ier.iniiim.  Verbena,  I Icliotrupe,  I'etiii>iu,  AiilIiThinum, 
Nunturtium,  red  Lioum  (called  In;;lc«c  by  the  Raideiier), 
Everything  was  }jro\ving  with  the  wildext  luxuiiunov  and 
beauty.  The  garden  was  a  regular  carpet  of  dowera,  and 
vegL'tutioii  wax  as  iiir  atlvnneud  as  it  would  bo  in  a  well- 
eultivat(.-d  garden  in  England  in  July. 

The  examiiuition  of  these  two  gaixlens  wan  eotietiiiiivu. 
From  il*  Kouthern  luliludc,  and  from  ita  full  exjxj^ure  to 
tbe  south-east,  Catania  would  have  necessarily  a  very  niild 
wiater  climat«,  were  it  not  for   the   immediate   viuitiiiy 


^ 


of  the  eitensiTe  tmow-clnd  plains  of  tho  upper  rKjions 
Miiint  Etna.  From  their  »)ntl<!  nlo^ieii  tticru  miixl  Ik>  4f 
nightly  <lown-(lraiipht,  or  laiid-lireese,  untnt«roe|kted 
any  vklsi-,  u-liit-lt  mii»l  mnkc  the  nights  oul<l  from 
ber  until  May.  When  I  wait  ihvrv  ul  tho  end  of  April,  in 
iDa;;nilicent  sunny  weather,  the  ni^htit  were  ooWer  than 
I  hill]  felt  thvm  Tor  a  month  before  anywhere  else  in  th« 
Medit«rrani,<9n  ;  I  hiul  to  got  up  in  the  ni(;ht  to  piirlinlly 
close  the  window,  and  to  put  n  eloiik  mi  Uie  bed.  A  careful 
pili^mn^c  ihroiis-h  the  cnltivat«d  region  of  Mount  £U)» 
to  NiiMlosi  tTotirirmrtl  this  vi«w. 

Nicolosi  i&  a  welUknoivn  vilhi^e,  twelve  miles  fVon 
Catiinin,  in  the  direction  taken  for  the  iuc«nt.  There  is 
N  good  row),  nnd  it  tn  tiFual  for  those  who  wish  to  asc«nd 
to  drive  in  n  onrriuge  thiM  far,  Hnil  then  to  take  inul< 
On  this  occasion  I  confined  myself  lo  the  driTO. 

I  found  evidence  cverywhefw  of  cold  winter  night«, 
on  the  Kiviera,  n»  At  Niiplcv  and  Pulermo,  »nd  iib>o  of  cold 
down-driiiii;hl.i  up  to  thul  titnt!  from  the  i<now><Jiid  pluinl 
of  Kinii,  The  decidtiotis  trt'i-n.  Mulberry,  Fij(,  or  .\hiiond, 
which  were  the  mont  numeroufi,  were  not  in  Icsif,  the  Vine 
viui  only  Fproiiting;  the  flowers  and  ground  vcgetatv 
reproduced  nt  every  step  iIh!  contm»t  between  the  t 
gurOpns  at  Catania  WlieTCTor  there  was  nny  little  valle;, 
any  depression,  with  »  nd-rv  to  tho  northwurds,  vcgrtalion 
wns  hixuriunt ;  it  wiis  ihut  of  Junv  aitd  July  with  un. 
Moreover,  in  these  cpnta  were  generally  growing  Orange 
and  Ivemon  trees.  Where  there  was  no  prottvtion,  awl 
on  i'spuec<l  ridges,  the  ground  TCgetatton  wa*  biK-kwnrdi 
and  there  wore  neither  Lemon  nor  Orange  tree«  to  be 
Men. 

This  drive  is  a  most  singular  nnd  interesting  ona.  Tim 
meet  exuberant  fertility  exist*;  but  in  the  miiUt  of  cindere, 
■coriiv,  and  lavn-i)ii>t.  It  in  p<tHWtly  evident  that  the 
df>'oinpi)i«ed  lava  containi^  the  eh-mentA  re<|uin;d  for  vcgi'- 
tiition,  nnd  that  once  it  i*  reduced  to  the  stale  of  soil  by 
time,  all  that  is  witnt<Ml  w  suniihinv  nnd  water.  The  Brst 
is  ever  preiicnt  in  tliia  favoured  elimate,  the  second  vno 
only  bo  obtained  with  great  dillleulty.  In  many  paflo  of 
Alouut  Etna  the  BhepbunJa  and  inhnbitunls  depend  cotirelj^j 


HOtJNT  ETNA — NICX>LOSI. 


441 


L 


for  water  during  tli@  Eiimmrr  on  collvctiutw  of  Know  pre- 
Mrved  in  the  liighi-r  rpfjiomt,  Inilwfl  CiiUiiiia  and  ]>art  of 
Sicily  is  KiipiiliL-d  witli  Btiovr  in  summer  from  Mount  Ktna. 
ThiB  fuvt  ftpeaka  for  it«i-lf  as  lo  the  pi>8Siliilily  of  liiiiJiiig  a 
cool  siimnuT  tcmpcraturu  nn  iu<  Riinkx. 

Tlio  ctillivatuil  refriuu  ol'  Mount  Ktna  tH  bo  fertile  ibat 
from  time  immemorial  it  hns  been  dotted  nith  tnivns  anti 
villug\-s  whidi  DOW  numtior  sixty-Kvu  und  oontuin  three 
bundred  thoiiaand  inkabitantii,  all  living  comfartubljr  on 
the  bounty  of  the  soil.  It  produces  abundantly  oil,  wine, 
lemonf,  oningve,  almonds,  cvreuls,  silk,  and  fruits  of  ovrry 
descriptioo. 

Nicolosi,  2264  Feet  above  the  sea,  in  oompo»od  of  low,  on«> 
('toriod,  solidly-built  cabins  or  houaes.  They  are  thus  built 
lut  a  precaution  a-;niii«t  (.'arlliqimkos,  to  whit-h  this  vi11iii>;« 
i*  even  won  expoKed  than  ('atuitia.  The  view  Imt.h  of  thu 
mountain  and  of  the  plains  below,  of  Catania,  and  of  th« 
Ha,  is  very  bMutit'ul.  lii  the  immcdiato  vicinity  aro  two 
volcanic  eones,  the  Monti-Kcimi,  which  anjof  rocvnt  tbrma- 
tion,  for  they  wcTo  thrown  upin  tlieeruptionof  1660.  One 
of  liio  peculiaritiw  of  Mount  Etna  is  thtil  its  eniplioiii 
have,  from  time  immemoriai,  n»  olWn,  or  oll«n«r,  Uken 
place  from  n«w  con<x  formed  on  the  dunks  uf  from  the 
prinvipal  one  at  tlic  apex.  Thi-ra  are  biindrdU  of  l\im« 
aeeontiary  cones  of  all  sixes  on  the  Midv*  of  Htnu,  fxt<fiidiug 
from  the  upper  or  deserted  retrion  t»  the  oiiltivntt^d  one. 
Many  of  tbo  cotw*  nro  of  ^real  «ize.  Thns  one  of  the  twin 
Monti-KoMJ,  M  Dainct)  fMiu  their  red  u'llour,  io  two  niil<« 
in  cireuniferenee  «t  its  Imhc,  and  in  by  no  means  one  of  the 
laTgvst.  These  cones  uru  t'lilv  by  side,  aud  |irotnide  from 
the  mountain  like  two  lialt-spheTes.  They  um  f|iiit« 
nakt'd,  tint  many  of  the  fccondiir^  ones  are  eluthed  with 
timber,  which  sometimos  extend*  down  to  the  bottom  of  the 
old  crater;  the  etrect  ix  then  very  pictureat|ue, 

Tuiimtfl  who  intend  to  asc<:tiii  to  the  summit  of  Ilia 
volcano,  here  take  guides  iind  mulea,  and  bc^in  the  more 
fatiguing  pari  of  the  wwcnt,  throujfh  the  woody  rei;ion  of 
the  U(xk».  The  apecies  of  tree*  vary  in  dilfcrenl  ref^iona 
of  tlio  monnUin,  out  on  the  sonth-niKt,  or  Catimiun  side, 
they  ore  as  we  »ec«ud  Cheanut,  Oak,  Cork,  Fir,  Uceek, 


442 


SIOTLT, 


Birch,  atid  Ilanthorn.  There  are  nutoywood-oarerv-di 
ill  tJuM  rv<;ii}ii,  tiiul  tlicj  art  aniil  to  ba  very  lovely,  tu 
tiie  wodiJh  in  i^cncml. 

I  was  told  liotb  at  Catania  and  at  Nicoloei  that  the  forest 
gladvs,  vepi-cially  iu  the  bit^her  wooded  reRiuni:,  arc  cc 
■ind  (Ocafant  in  the  nio»l  tcurching  heatK  of  th«  Mediterr 
tiean  summer.  ]t  ktruck  me  that  nature  has  provided  sit 
admimhle  Banitarium,  the  very  place  1  was  tcarchini;  for, 
y«l  <iiiiU'  ignored,  in  tliu  sylvnn  rctrciitfl  of  Mount  Klna. 

Iu  Snitiu^rlaiid  the  phy>iciaiu  of  the  hir^e  towns,  such  a^ 
Geneva,  Luii^anne,  and  Lucerne,  are  well  aware  that  the 
KTCfit  heat  <>r  even  the  Swiss  plains  is  very  injuiiotix  to  tli« 
eickj  to  the  weak,  and  to  all  convnU-MientM,  and  that 
mountain  air  is  life  in  such  ca«eit.  They  have,  therefore,! 
their  advice,  led  to  tlie  cetablisbment  all  ov«r  Switxerlan 
of  mountain  hotels  or  puiuions,  at  clevationa  of  from  two 
to  three  or  Bvu  thousand  k't^t.  1'i>  Ihi-He  hotels  they  send 
many  vonvalcscent  and  debilitated  pcreoDs  durine  tiicsiim- 
mer  months,  and  to  them  oIbo  resort  tnulutudeii  of  tbu 
sound  and  Mtron^^,  to  csmjie  from  the  extreme  heat  of  Jutf 
and  August. 

\Vhy  should  not  our  heat-oppresfcd  and  fever-Btridiea 
eoiintvymen  in  the  Sonth  Meditcriaiicaii,  at  Malta,  NapliM, 
and  eWwIiere,  extubliKh  nume  fiich  fanilarium  or  mountain 
jH:n»ian  on  the  cotil  ftloped  of  Mount  Kloa?  Would  it  not 
awn  hi!  worth  uhilo  for  otir  Uovernment,  if  fcasihle,  to  found 
such  an  uB(ubli>bnient  for  the  troops  at  Malta  t  Invwlidi 
have  now  either  to  lieitr  the  tropical  beat  of  Malu,  or  to 
l>e  aont  home,  a  Ion;*  uud  expensive  journey, 

\Vere  sneh  u  Kunitiirinm  established  there  would  bo  no 
real  difBculty  iu  obtuinini;  supplier,  in  the  immediato 
proximity  of  a  Urge  city  of  eifjhty-foiir  thouiaind  iuhsbi- 
tanta,  with  a  |*oocl  carriage  road  us  far  us  Nioolosi.  Thia 
villa^  bi;injf  twelve  mileH  from  Calauia,  there  would  only 
nmain   six  or  eight   to  ascend  on   niiilm,   to    rcaob  the 

Crubidjle  Kite.     Such  a  eanitarinm  would,  I  feel  convinced, 
e  a  t;reut  boon  to  southern  Europe,  and  I  hope  yet  to  aoe 
it  established. 

The  deserted  region,  very  aptly  w>  called,  compriaee  tlia 
htsl  four  thouvaud  live  hundred  feet  ot  the  volcuno. 


MOUNT  FTNA — A  aUJlMKR  8AN1TARIUJL      443 


wiDtvr  it  IS  entirely  covered  with  snnw,  whicli  Jeaoends  \QVt 
down  iiitij  ttiv  BoNCo;  in  Hummur,  it  U  only  partmlly  to 
vovereil.  It  L-ouluiaa  no  life,  vcjr^^lable  or  animiil — xcarcely 
a  hcheii  or  iin  inuL-ot,  und  ie  »  d<-Mtrt  of  osliea,  scoriw,  and 
fiiulcK.  Tlii;  fiuul  L-rinc,  >iow  eleven  buiidrt-d  Tvct  liit;li, 
rises  out  of  a  wide  and  lonj;  plain  nt  the  Muminit  ol'  tbo 
mountain  ;  i(«  height  vm'ux  Irom  one  eruption  to  another. 
SoiiiotiiiiiM  |Mirt  oi'  it  falln  into  ihe  wide  crater,  and  thim 
the  li«i;{ht  of  the  mountain  is  lessi-ned ;  eonietimeit  a  new 
iTU]>lion  of  Hsht-n  und  luva  rvlxiiMx  it  higher  than  ever. 
Moiiiil  Ktnu  in  Inilv  a  magtiificeiit  tiiid  intensely  Jntorcetin^ 
ei^ht ;  it  is  ctiftuttily  itie  muHt  wonderful  object  in  natiiro  it 
has  cTcr  Wen  my  yood  fortune  to  wi-,  und  iit  uloms  worth 
thi-  Iroiililc  of  Hi-vcr»l  jonrneyn  t<i  Siirily. 

The  Mhuve  ju^a  were  writt<.-»  on  the  uccasioD  of  my  first 
visit  to  Sietly  in  I&8S,  when  1  w«a  not  ncll  enough  t»  asoend 
twyund  Niooloiii.  I  have  rccciilly  (May,  187t)  paid  Sicily 
and  Catania  another  visit,  and  being  in  better  hmlth,  more 
eijiial  to  L-xurtion,  I  have  careftilty  ex|)lored  the  Iowlt  regiuna 
«t  Mount  Ktna,  with  a  view  to  the  diecovory  of  a  locality 
suited  far  the  euminor  nanilarium.  Alter  driving  to  Nicolosi, 
I  took  midce  und  ascended  ns  hijjh  an  the  bouse  eidh'xl  the 
"  Com  d<i  Botco,"  ut  an  vlevatiun  of  diAi  ftvt.  It  m  the 
house  wliere  ttiose  who  wish  to  uwend  tn  the  Hummit  of 
Mount  KtJia  usually  yaaa  the  night.  We  reached  this  point 
of  the  uacunt  without  any  fatigue,  a  dttitanee  of  eight  mile« 
IVom  Nicolovi,  in  twu  Uwtn  and  ii  half,  by  n  very  tolorabli 
but  rooky  track,  one  that  any  lady  or  child  coidd  easily 
take.  \Ye  were  told  that  the  snow  had  only  disappeared 
in  thin  district  for  uhoiit  a  week  ;  later,  howerur,  than 
UNual.  The  osoent  was  very  gentle,  over  alightly-Twiog 
plains  and  sUiping  hilU.  From  tl>e  "Casa"  the  asoent 
ueoomes  mora  preci|>ilo«i!,  but  I  went  no  further,  mtiiilicd 
tJtut  1  had  founil  a  apot  nhi-re  a  mountain  hutel,  or  summer 
aeylinn  against  heat  n)ii;ht  he  advanlageMisly  estsbltshed. 

Thp  I'lirrst  of  oUl  Chcxtnut  trees  deaeribed  by  former 
writerH  hau  been  eut  down  for  tinibt^r.  living  near  the 
path  ivcrc  eoveral  huge  trunks,  many  feet  iu  cireum  fere  nee, 
und  tile  ritmaina  of  treea  hundreds  of  yenn  uhl,  which  had 
Dot  yet  been  removed.     Their  place  was,  however,  supplied 


444 


SICILY. 


by  youti^  tror«,  CliwtnuU  and  Onk*,  frt)m  Un  to  Sfl 
yviiTA  old.  Thu  air  waa  fresh  anJ  pK-anuat,  tb«  now  ovec 
-'CtttADiii  Hnd  the  adjoinint;  Sinieto  plain  truly  splendid. 
The  ve^Uitinn  won  tiriin-ipnlly  ':otn|)oKcd  of  irniMW,  small 
Thistles,  Daisieii,  Silene,  Si)]Kitiaria  calsbrtca,  Tdrauutuoi, 
Atiifitanl,  Nettles,  wbite  Cluver,  tiUckbeiTies,  Ivy.  Tbers 
w«n>  wild  Plum  iind  Penr  trvos  in  flower,  uiik  lirualiurood, 
Mid  |)atdin>  of  cin't-iili',  bearded  Wlieitt  and  Uvrley,  and 
Lupins.  As  we  were  two  hours  and  a  bulf  rt'»eliinix  thii 
Fpot  from  \ico1osi,  and  ttvo  hours  di-iviiir;  fruni  (.'iiUiiia  to 
Tsicotoni,  tlie  entire  iiiEcettt  I'rom  CiiUiiiiii- tuulc  lour  houn 
and  a  half  in  all,  twenly  miles. 

Cotaaia,  uit  the  otiier  hand,  is  only  seven  Iioutm  dioUiit 
'  fWini  31  ulta,  so  timt  it  would  he  pwille  to  diue  nt  MiilU, 
sleep  0)1  board  the  steamer,  and  he  more  than  OUUO  feet 
high  on  Mount  Etna  by  breakfast  time  the  nvxt  mortiing', 
ill  M  region  eool  iind  plrnKant  during;  the  irr(!At«i>t  heat  of 
the  s«>rchin>r  Mcililirnuiciin  t>umm<-r.  Once  theiv  tiie 
(lays  ini^hl  be  v)ient  di-liy;ht fully  in  a«Geuls  to  hi^lier 
ivcione,  and  in  exploration  of  the  picturesiiue  flank*  of 
"  Motigibello,"  in  n  wilderncN  of  oonw  iind  entt^ra,  of  mckn, 
valleys,  );ludes,  and  womls.  Nothinjr  would  Im  oa«!er  also 
than  to  get  daily  supplies  of  every  kind  from  Catania. 

The  "  Ciiga  del  Bowo,"  and  the  surmundin^  n-gion  of 
Aloiint  Etna,  It-long  to  a  S]iuiii<h  nohhtinnn  who  would 
no  doubt  favour  the  plan,  not  only  for  the  iniblie  Kood,  but 
also  hi.-<:iiUHe  it  wtiuld  •^ve  value  to  a  properly  now  all  Ult 
valucU'as.  We  hud  a  heaulifu)  day,  theic  were  nu  elouda 
on  tlie  mountain,  only  a  long  streamer  of  white  smoke  from 
Uie  oone,  the  entire  elevation  of  which  we  mw  distinctly. 

Nieoloai  and  tliu  "Cusn  del  Bosco"  lie  on  the  soulh^eatt 
side  of  Etna.  In  order  to  s<>e  if  a  lietler  locality  could  be 
found  in  another  direction,  I  attempted  to  curry  out  a  long 
inu)  ardciitly  desired  project,  a  visit  to  the  Col  del  Itovo. 

The  Cul  del  llovs  »  an  iinm«n»e  vidivy  or  hollow,  soooped 
out  of  the  north. eastern  Hank  of  the  mountniu  hy  some 
mysterious  at^ncy,  lar^e  enough  to  ewnllow  up  Mount 
Vesuvius  and  ita  cone.  The  entrance  to  it  is  twenty  miles 
from  Catania,  so  1  took  ■  carriage  and  p^ir  and  started 
nt  six  A.M. 


UOCKT   ETXX— VAL  DEL  DOrE. 


Wv  pntt»d  tlirougli  many  •mftiDg  vilU]^,  apparently 
4h«  abode  of  peace  ami  plenty,  ttint^  ft  IfttM  liMrnlly 
floH-iii);  with  oil  iiDil  wiiji',  rich  in  fiji»,  friiiU,  anil  corn. 
']'ti<^  lii^rliciit  villii^'8  reachvil  were  not  moni  lliati  SOOO  feet 
kbovo  the  Ben,  und  they  wt-rc  mostly  betwwn  1U0»  «»d 
ISUU  f<.-«t.  Id  uII  thoro  wuiv  modoit  villnn,  Wlonginf;  U> 
the  Ciitatiiaiis  I  wsa  told,  who  there  spend  tlic  hot  daj^s  of 
nrnimcr. 

Ar(ive<l  at  tlie  end  of  our  drive,  at  the  vJllago  of  ZiilTa* 
ni>a,  we  hired  mules,  and  atailrt)  for  the  ast'iiit,  one  of  the 
noet  f;lori4>us  nnd  luKciniitini;  I  ever  ma<le.  l-'or  a  few 
hundrt-it  fwi  more,  nj>  lo  i600  fcrt,  therw  were  iilill  |MtobM<i 
of  cultiviitioii,  vines,  eereaU,  Hga,  and  then  we  reaehed  ft. 
billowy  «uu  of  Inva.  Wn  crossed  and  rec'ro>sed  rivers  nndj 
■tream*,  and  t(irrL-nt«  of  lava,  over  rucko,  liouhknt,  ciiiderfl 
of  lava,  under  and  over  oascadea  of  Java.  We  saw  where  it 
hud  nuhed  ov<>r  ridg««  and  mnuiitain  Mdw,  wheie  it  had 
poured  over  precipices,  Hlled  valleys,  and  croeaed  oldi^r  lava 
torrciiU.  Indin-t),  wc  wilneeeed  every  conceivable  and  in> 
i.ioiii?rivuli)L>  vni^irv  and  freak  that  riven  of  tnollvn  tnelAl, 
iaauiii;;  at  one  ))eriod  front  one  direolion  at  another  period 
from  a  dilf-retit  one,  can  pocaiMy  accumplixh  on  a  nit;t^ 
mountain  aide.  I  wroa  entranced,  and  (br|[ot  al)  Uta 
<liiu-(i  til  furl  of  beinif  on  a  mule  without  a  saddle,  aiuiog  ou 
a  sack  of  ulraw,  with  merely  lu<>|i«  of  rop«  for  atirrujie. 
But  man  never  ia  to  tw  truly  blfNt.  Jimt  tm  we  n-airhcd 
the  entmnce  of  Uie  grand  amphiUicatri;,  which  fonns  the 
Val  del  Bove,  a  mam  of  clouds,  which  had  for  iwmv  time 
Ijeen  hnvcrine  over  lu,  rapidly  dMoendcd,  (.iinccJilml  every- 
thing from  our  view,  and  hid  um  relnii^e  our  nlt^ps  U-at  we 
abould  be  ImI  in  tlK-ir  cold  embrace.  This  I  did  very  Midly, 
for  tliffre  vma  but  little  cluinc«  of  my  ewr  iif{«iu  bein^  able 
to  visit  this  aceno  of  }te>olo}{ical  enchantment. 

We  wore  at  an  elevation  of  fwir  lliinMind  leot.     All  ciilti- 

itton  had  lo»>;  trcaiii'd,  anJ  Liehena,  Af o»Mn,  Fems,  BixKima, 
ind  CraaMiUoe«e  were  abundant  in  the  crevicea  of  the  older 
Inna.  The  Fonts  wen*  Cetersch,  PotjiKidium  vulynrc,  Aa- 
pleniunt  trichomaneM,  Iteria  uguilina.  The  mowture  and 
coolneaa  of  this  regioD  were  evidently  favourable  to  the 
disintegration  of  tii«  lava,  for  that  of  165£  wm  already 


K 


•46  SICILY. 

coveivd  iTith  Iiichi?ne,  and  lower  ilotrn,  timt  ot  177 
cttlliraU-<t ;  wlicri-ii*  nc«r  Ciil«iiia  tlii>  lava  of  Diu  Intuir 
date  i*  xtill  iih«<ltitt-ly  tiiilccd,  ma  devt>i<l  of  vtgotetiau  oa 
tbe  day  it  vine  poured  nut  of  tlie  volcano. 

I  li«ard  from  my  gtiuk  many  iiitvmiini;  doUi'ls  respect- 
ing th«  eruption  ol'  IHhi,  the  grcHti.>st  mikm  lUUU.  TIm 
river  of  lava  only  stopped  a  few  hundred  yaids  «b(tve  the 
Tiling  of  y^ulT^tnna,  th«  onv  at  wliicb  wc  coinnti-npcd  oar 
aaottnt.  Tliv  villagers  liad  long  ^ven  np  all  b<))H-,  ami  lud 
remuviil  llieir  );do(!k  iind  chHtU.'lii.  As  nt  Cntnniii,  tlie  lava 
vtopjiud  JUKI  Wiind  u  clmrvh,  M'liicli  wax  and  in  <?i>n«idi-n)d 
B  iniriicle.  Although  the  eruption  lasted  inoulhti,  noil 
poured  ont  a  M-n  ol'  Invn,  o«:iu>ionini>  gn*t  dcvitatutioa, 
then;  wait  no  hnmnn  lives  lout  j  there  wiw  only  oni.'  wriuui 
aeoident,  and  one  animal  burnt.  Ayoun^Bnglifllimanjuinpud, 
Ifor  a  treak.  on  to  a  rock,  wliidi  wns  shown  mi>,  then  eo- 
rardvd  with  DM>IU-n  Iiivu.  He  nH»od  hi»  rootiiii;,  iind  Ml 
with  one  kg  iDlo  the  buniinu;  stream.  Tbe  le^  noji  eoti> 
■umed  to  the  knee,  ami  be  had  to  BUtlerampntation,  bnt 
Tived.  The  mule,  \vs»  fortunate,  jum|H-d  on  ttio  inol 
Uru  in  an  agonjr  of  tVisht  and  a  fit  of  diBobedieueu, 
KH*  burnt  to  death,  'fat  ona  was  not  more  reaso 
than  the  other,  mill  my  guide,  who  told  me  tbiit  tula;  botli 
dc^vrved  llieir  I'lite  ! 

Tlie  t(^»aU  of  the  oxoarsion  was  to  confirm  the  coitclii- 
■ion  previously  arrived  iit — Unit  the  vicinity  ol'  the  "  Cnsa 
del  boireo"  bt  the  locality  best  adapted  for  au  Ktiui  aani- 
Inrium.  In  tile  smiling;  villiii;es  tliroiigli  which  I  paasMt 
there  are  already,  however,  a«  nUiled,  taaay  villax,  no  doubt 
auily  obtninulile,  wbieli  would  be  a  great  iniprovenicut  on 
Malta  and  the  mainland  as  n  eummcr  rci>idcDc«,  but  thoy 
are  not  hif^U  i}iiou<;b  en  tliu  mouutuin  to  esciipe  entirely 
the  mminer  licata. 

In  cunclusion,  I  envr  do  reason  to  think  that  the  winter 
climate  of  Catania  wok  »u|wnor  or  even  ctiual  to  ttwt  of 
the  Uiviera,  and  to  ihut  of  Mentone  in  particular.  A*  wa 
have  se<:n,  it  is  exposed  to  cold  wind>  frnm  the  north  and 
north-west,  the  dirrclion  in  which  Ktna  li»;  that  inonn- 
lain  being  covered  with  extensive  plains  of  buow  all  winter, 
down -draughts    (rum    these   mow  plaina   mtul   reiicb   it 


II)   (Clt 

» eoii^i 


WINTEB  CLIMATE  OF  CATANIA. 


447 


L 


Moreover  it  ht  quite  nnproleoted  frnm  tlie  cold  north-ertst 
winds  whiuh  deMend  li-om  the  Cjltil>rinn  nnd  Dalmiitiua 
mountain*,  inow-oovenKl  during  the  wiiit<^r. 

Tbe  mean  winter  temperature  of  Catonia,  like  tbat  of 
Pulermo  and  of  Nnples,  is  liijjbcr  by  some  detrrvw  tliBii 
lliut  of  Menton«  nnd  at  tbe  Itiviera;  but  I  buli«ve  that 
in  Imth  localities  4be  fact  is  in  a  great  tneastire  owing  to 
lb«  occiwioHul  |ii-evAlvn<Ni  of  »M>ut?ierly  wiii(I»,  and  i-npocinlly 
of  the  Bcirocco,  or  aoiith-enal  wind.  Tbe  latter  comes  from 
the  AfricKn  dwicrtp,  the  botte§t  aammer  climate  in  th« 
world,  like  a  bUwt  fr'>m  n  I'lirnaoi?,  giitbtiini  u  gceul  onioiint 
of  moisture  from  the  sea  as  Hoon  ns  it  loucbea  it,  and 
reaches  Sicily  os  a  hot,  damp  n-ind,  most  enervating  and 
relaxing.  It  i»  ilrended  tbroiighout  tho  island,  as  at  KfaHii, 
even  more  by  the  native  than  by  strangeni,  and  U  de- 
cidedly a  weak  point  in  Sicilian  climate.  It  i^ncraily 
Iaiit4  three  or  four  diiyi*,  with  tlie  themmmflf^r  from  90°  to 
WS",  idthough  it  fecln  much  lii;;!ier,  producing  esoenivtt 
<l<-j<-(.-tiou  nnd  liL-Ritiidc.  While  it  conliuu<-8  it  is  a  sonrco 
of  the  greatest  di&t^oinfurt  U>  liw.  eutirr  community,  to  tlio 
■ound  as  well  as  to  tbe  unsound.  As  I  have  alrea^ly  stated, 
the  trying  natura-  of  tbe  mitrocco,  or  south-cast  wind,  as 
we  reuch  the  more  southern  re};ion«  of  tbe  WMt  M<:dit*r- 
ranean,  counterbalances  tu  a  great  extent  the  advantaga 
gained  by  inteiiscr  »un  licat.  The  scirocco  appears  to  M 
more  oppressive  at  Palermo,  nkhon^b  on  the  north  const, 
than  at  Calunia,  or  in  any  other  |uirt  of  the  xouth  of  Sicily 
generally.  This  is  xuppoeei)  to  bo  owing  to  ttie  rever- 
beration of  the  sun'*  niyn  from  the  rocks  in  the  moun- 
tain amphitheatre  behind  Palermo  incrcattng  its  lnMit. 
During  its  persistence  the  streets  are  deserted  and  silent, 
the  nutiven  shutting  tht-niMi-lvc«  up  in  the  huiun  with 
closed  wmdows  and  duors.  This  wind  woa  as  mudi 
detested  by  tfao  ancients  as  by  the  modems.  Admiral 
iSni}'th  ways  it  wiw,  without  doubt,  "  the  evil  vupimr  of 
Homer  (Iliad  r,),  into  which  Mars  retreated  when  wounded 
by  Minerva." 

NcvcrtheleM  I  think  a  residenoc  at  CaUnia  in  winter 
would  probably  suit  thoae  who,  without  being  seriously  ill, 
require  a  snuny,  tvmiieratc  olimaU,  ratlicr  drier  and  mom 


UB 


BICILY. 


bracinff  than  \hnt  of  Palermo,  not  so  dry  or  ut  stimulafiiti 
Be  tlio  north  sliorefl  of  thu  ModiU-rrAnean.  To  eornn  th« 
pnucimilv  or  tliu  iting  of  Kuri>iH-aii  voloanor*.  Die  vtningc 
aesB  of  lliis  volcanic  region,  tlie  liicility  with  whk-h  I'rwiu  it 
oUivr  ports  of  tho  Mixlitumiricnn  can  W  vJeitci]  in  i>|>ring 
or  BUtiimn,  may  u)>peur  u  {iiwitivc!  adviiiituj^,  anil  iitcllnu 
them  to  chooee  Cataiiin  ne  their  winter  abod«.  Tl)e  town 
Bpiwunt  li>  W  fxccptinnnlly  ciMin  aiiiJ  opvn  for  «  aouUn 
citv,  and  otk-rs  many  r^sourws. 

vVheii  I  fir^t  visited  CaliinJa  tliero  wu  no  comfortnbl 
hotel,  liiit  tliiii  dratvUiick  h»»  been  removed  by  the  erection 
of  the  larjje  and  coramo<lii>ii§  "  Grande  Albergo  di  Ciitaiiia." 
It  IK  under  Swik*  manik^-mcnt,  und  in  cs  (rood  m  the  K^-'Mnl 
run  of  lar;^  liotela  oii  the  mnitiland,  bnt  then  the  jiriccs  hav« 
lievonii.'  thi-  fame,  This  is  the  iiivariitble  result  of  imptove- 
inent  in  hutelit  on  Uie  Continent,  with  Kn^lii^h  i-oml'orlA,  of 
even  with  the  mere  attenipt  to  atl^iiu  them,  we  have  ever; 
where  ani]  aiiyM-here  to  accept  Eni;lish  or  Parisian  prices. 

The  Utvrn  of  C*t(intu  liw  much  improved  ninco  I  Bretw 
it  twelve  yeuK  a)!«,  and  isi  Htill  improvin;;.  New  hwiiu 
and  streets  have  been  built,  and  a  I'eally  lovely  public  gardeit 
liKM  biren  planted  and  opened  by  the  munieipnlity  in  n  veiy 
gt«n]  pufiition,  just  uliove  the  town,  undenieulh  ihc  Do* 
minicAn  ehnrch.  it  is  called  "Giardino  Uollini,"  in  houuur 
of  the  renowned  compiMcr.  The  hou«e  iu  whieh  was  boro 
the  author  of  "  Norma,"  "  Purituni,"  "  Sonnarabulii,''  abut* 
on  tho  (^rdeii.  Bellini  is  much  revered  by  his  countrymen, 
who  highly  appreciate  the  hunour  of  haviii);  ^iven  birth  to 
eueh  a  man,  a  very  fountain  and  t«mple  ol'  melody.     They 

. deeply  deplore  hi»  early  dentli,  as  do  all  musim)  mankind. 

'The  Botanical  Gardens  alno  doMrve  a  visit;  what  1  saw  in 
btrth  th«M  i^rdens  only  conlirmed  former  impreuJODi. 
ThfiT«  is  now  a  railroad  ojwn  trom  Messina  to  Catania  and 
Synwiue,  but,  as  on  the  (icnocste  Kiviem,  the  fpiin  is  a  loss. 
The  object  of  my  escursion  to  Sicily  was  more  ceneeiuLly 
to  study  the  poKition  and  climate  of  Palermo  and  Catania. 
Huvini;  brought  thiia  inve->li^utii>n  to  a  tutisfootory  ii«liv>,  I 
felt  five  to  depart,  Catania  is,  however,  too  near  to  Syra- 
o»*«,  and  SynuniMe  is  too  intinmtely  eonnected  with  the 
luatory  of  the  anuieut  Greeks  aud  Koiiuiux,  which  all  hu' 


k 


TIIE  VOYAGE  TO  SyRACUSE. 


44D 


i>li^rosae«  our  Youthful  tlioH<;hti)  during  t«r«Ive  or  rourtcen 
veurd  uf  early  lilV,  for  »  rtrong  ilrsire  to  vi»it  it  not  U>  arise. 
TIkiv  n-ns  jt  soiiill  Sicilian  nUamer,  staitint;  ihe  noxt  day, 
aud  as  it  proved  calm  and  fine  I  went  oii  board  at  10  a.u. 

TliiB  time  1  wim  ii^iiin  ([uito  nlone.  My  jouns;  (ieniiun 
Baron  had  jitDVed  a  very  Hureealde  companion  at  Mt^inii, 
iiotwilhKUndin;]^  liis  liurulilic  viirpvt-bii;;.  Oiil-c  «.*<!  tun]  k-ft 
his  couiitrymvn  nt  Pulcniin,  uiid  liu  found  himself  idoiie  witli 
me,  all  alilfrK-ia  and  Imiiteiir  di^Mpjieared.  He  seciti^  to 
lean  npon  and  to  conRde  in  me,  and  we  spi-nt  Hcverid  (liiys 
to;;ethi;r  very  hiirinoniuui'ly,  tlicD  Mifwriiting,  h»  (lir  X:n>li.-»j 
where  he  intended  rcjoinin);  hu  family,  I  for  Catania. 

'I'lie  moniiu^  was,  as  tisiud,  very  beautiful,  and  the  motion 
of  the  vessel  was  eo  en^y  aiul  sti-ady  tliat  th«r«  wan  no  exctira 
for  being  even  uiieomlorlnlite.  The  blue  wa  d.ineed  merrily 
at  llie  bi>wA  of  the  little  sleamer,  and  as  we  receded  from 
the  land,  whilst  crossin);  the  (iulf  of  Catania,  the  muunliiin 
of  mountuiiii  (Mongili-lh')  tomi  hij^hor  and  bibber  on  the 
north-wcatern  horizcm.  Indeed,  the  further  <ve  reii'ded  ihrt 
(^Tander  and  more  Imposing;  did  Monnt  Ktna  beeome,  ilia- 
toncc  merely  brin^in<;  out  in  fi^reater  relief  the  uulos8.1l 
jirojiort  ii>ni*  of  the  kinj;  of  volcanoes.  Calunin  mnu  iKii'umc 
a  mere  maas  of  white  houses  on  the  sea-slti>re,  whilnt  alwvc 
was  spread  ont,  as  in  a  piinornma,  the  different  re;>7oua  of 
Klnii — the  green  vultiviited  diKtriet,  d(>tt4-d  wilh  numerous 
white  vtllagea  and  towns — alwve,  a  wide  belt  vf  foresil  trees, . 
the  liosco,  of  a  more  nombru  hue— and  then  a  naked  re;;ion 
which  extended  hi);her  and  higher  to  th«  abode  of  eternal 
enow.  From  tl>e  sea,  at  the  distance  of  Rome  thirty  mik-s 
fii>m  Catania,  not  only  were  all  these  details  dislirietly 
vitiilile,  but  the  large  plain  al  tho  enrnmit,  and  tl>e  terminal 
cone  in  the  centre,  aUo  came  into  view.  Thi«  cone, 
although  rising  nearly  elifVen  hundred  feet  from  the  tcr- 
min.1l  plain,  appeaml  Ut  he  merely  a  email  mound. 

There  weie  no  f<)rei;ni<i<^  <'n  l>ounl  except  myaclfi  all 
wore  Sicilians,  S3  I  hnd  to  make  mjself  as  a^reettbki  as  I 
ooukt,  in  rather  Hccond-rut';  Italian,  to  the  ciipUtin  and  bis 
lieutenant.  The  steamer  was  a  Mnatt  eonsling  vcmmI  which 
once  a  fortnight  pcrlorms  the  journey  frem  Palermo  to 
UU)  Lipari  Iskuds,  Messina,  Catania,  and  Syracuse,  and 

0  a 


450 


SICILY. 


lack.  I  liad  Ijeen  cordiitlly  received  on  nrriviof^  on 
S8  KM  JngleM  (an  Ent{4iahn)an),  and  by  this  name,  or  by 
tliNtof  it  IngUw  (the  Kn^luhman],!  remained  bnuwa  botb 
durini;  tliiH  nml  the  retuni  voyafrr,  as  kIso  hI  Syracnw.  I 
now  I'ett  that  I  Imd  quitti  gnl  ont  of  the  bi-:>t'*i)  tiaok,  and 
that  my  own  identity  had  completely  mer;;td  into  tliat  of 
my  nJitiiiiwlitj-.  The  ofliwm  of  the  slitp,  nlUnmifh  eivil  and 
ohiigiii};,  ri-iidily  aimwmng  any  (iiiextions,  wen-  evidttntly 
not  cUsfical  Bohohirs,  or  even  liititoriMiiB  They  told  toe 
Uiey  c-uuld  not  well  nndersUnd  wliat  we  "  1n;;U-«i"  went  to 
Syniciibte  lor.  It  waa  not  a  )>retty  loxvn,  and  there  wen 
only  a  few  old  ruins,  "  delle  antichitft,"  of  ito  f^mat  intercat, 
lo  eve.  The  maf>ic  of  Uie  post  wa«  a  clofied  book  to  them;  ^ 
tliey  could  not  shut  their  v\-k»  and  itec  hef<>re  tlirm,  as  ^H 
thiii^  of  to-dny,  the  groat  <aty  of  furmttr  times,  mIiIi  il^^f 
eight  htiudred  thousand  iiituibitantR,  its  palaces  and  ti-mplw, 
its  wrahh,  ilH  numurouii  k-(^ions,  and  its  hundn-dK  of  triramei 
or  vi-si>elM  ol'  war. 

On  tlie  other  hiind,  Ihey  were  quite  olive  to  all  qnontioDi 
m-rt<itninii  to  pR-seiit  ttTneii,  were  eiilhiiniaslie  in  bi-liairoF 
Italia  i'riifa,  and  totd  me  that  all  the  youna;  nieii  in  lh« 
island  were  in  tiivonr  of  the  annexation  to  tluly,  of  llie 
expiiUioii  ol'lhe  Dotirlioni',  olTri^e  trade  with  other  nution*, 
and  of  i)!^)^^^^  in  general.  We  shall  never  at^iii,  Ihey 
said,  put  uur  neek  under  the  v«ke  of  the  rt'trn;p-8di-  party. 

While  eoastiuiT  the  low  sliore  of  this  purl  of  Sicily  a 
numWr  of  ({iiitiU  eame  hoverintr  round  tlie  veisct.  Just 
ari'ivi-d  rrom  the  continent  of  AiHcfl,  and  lived  with  their 
lony  j'lnriiry,  the  poor  Ijirdu  of  pawngc  wiinlid  to  rert  on 
our  uliiji,  ilic  first  "  land"  they  had  reaubed.  The  oSieer* 
armed  themselves  with  ffuns,  and  shot  at  the  uimry  bird* 
as  lliey  Hppi-ourhed,  an  act  of  eruelty  1  eould  liiiidly  forgive. 
TliC  birds  were  evidently  so  tired  that,  although  driven 
Bway  by  this  liarsb  reeeption,  they  soon  returned  to  the 
veH»el  t<>V  rist.  I''«rtuniitely  my  frieud»wcre  D<'t  gooi  ahota, 
and  di<l  but  little  e»v(ition.  Uuaibi  arrive  in  ^reat  ntimbem.. 
in  every  ]iart  of  Sicily  at  tbis  time  of  t^c  year,  but  ma 


espw; 


iullv  'in  the  south  eoast. 


Al'out  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  rounded  the  cape 
of  I'aiiajpa,  tame  iu  siyht  of  the  liar-famed  piumoatorjr ' 


6YBACVBB — TTS  BISTORT. 


451 


L 


Ortygis,  on  which  Iho  town  of  Sj-racu*e  »  8itiiaf«(1,  and 
w«TV  MKin  Nardy  moured  in  the  8|)iioi»uB  port.  Tliie  jwrl  is 
one  oi'  tlie  very  l)cf^t  in  the  Muditerraneun,  iir-i-nnling  to 
moderti  aiillioritii's,  ahlnttit;!)  it  wwt  formerly  Iti'lievi'ii  U>  hn 
too  yIiiiIIaw  to  sdinit  UrKe  veswU.  It  was  NeWn  who  Gret 
•honed  the  ralUoy  of  this  view  by  suling  in  with  a  liirgv 
fleet. 

Syi'iiciiso  ia,  iM-rhapi!,  thct  moKt  inlcivxting  K(ii>t  >n  Sicily, 
on  ai-couut  of  ita  ^ratidi-ur  and  prosperity  in  ancient  times, 
of  its  intimate  connexiou  witb  the  national  liislory  of 
Greece,  Carth»f;«,  and  Home,  und  of  thcr  nniiiun>ns  rrmaius 
of  antiquity  lliat  it  still  prtxenlN.  It  was  fuund^l  one  yi»f 
aftor  Nuxos  (73^1)  b.c.)  by  a  colony  of  Corintliiuns,  und 
rapidly  att»incd  a  det^ree  of  wealth  and  progi>ority  un- 
nvulk-d  hy  any  other  of  the  colonies  nf  (Ja^-w.  In  the 
year  'l-S.'i  a.c,  under  Ui-lon,  it  \va*  able  to  offer  thirty 
thousand  men  and  tliree  hundred  vuhsi-U  of  war  to  Greece 
whi^'n  attacked  Ity  Pei»iu,  and  a  Ivw  yeon  lati-r  drleuted  the 
(,^urih»^ini»Ti)  at  Hitneni,  and  rnmhcil  I  heir  p"  wit  in  Sicily. 
In  tlie  year  415  e.c.  bevan  the  deadly  ittru^)j;]e  with  tiie 
Athenians,  which  ended  by  the  defeat  and  capture  of  tJie 
Athenian  geiivrol  Ni(.-iai<  aiwi  of  bic  army,  atti-r  one  of  the 
moKt  cidi'braled  Biesea  in  ancient  hivtory — a  iiine  vividly 
de^^iiljed  by  Thucydidee.  It  is  uud  by  this  hisloriaii  tliat 
th«  power  of  Atheni  nc\er  rec*»vercd  from  the  dvlMt.  The 
naineH  of  the  Syracuxun  kitign  or  tynintu,  Hieron,  ThrnHy- 
bultis,  Uionysins,  'I'imoleon,  A^utbocles,  are  mixed  up 
inextricably  with  Grecian  history.  Under  them  the  ]>apu< 
latmn  ol  Syracuco  reuebed  ei);ht  hnodrvd  thouhiind,  and 
tlieir  dominion  extended  over  tlio  itrvater  part  ol  tbu  i>bnil. 
The  loun  itself  tvns  funrtcen  miles  in  circumference. 

In  the  year  211  ii.c.  SyriKwe wn»  be»i'-{ipd  by  Maivwlhis, 
the  Itdinan  i^-neial,  and  fell  bel'ure  bia  legions,  imtwith- 
elandtut;  tlio  hravcrj'  of  the  iiihabitantK  and  lb«  t'kill  of 
Ai('himed«(,  the  ^ri:at4-*t  miithcmalidaii  and  engineer  ofi 
UreL-i;in  times,  ulter  an  iiidejiendenC  existence  of  itii  jntn. 
Syracuse  then  became  merely  a  Iloman  provincial  town, 
and  one  hundred  and  tilty  yeani  later  Cicero  rv»ide<l  there 
as  piiplor.  lie  has  lei t,  in  his  oration  againat  Verivs,  a 
graphic  description  of  it«  k-uuly,  of  ita  moouuieuts  aiiij 

G  o  i 


452 


SICILT. 


of  its  wvaltli.  Stibseqiiofltly  it  followed  tb«  rurtnnM  of  tli« 
nut  of  Sicily,  {>Tii()iijilly  lb«iii^'  the  imporlaiice  it  bad  ncqnind 
ill  ancient  tinw'H. 

Even  now,  howerer,  after  tlio  Uip»«  of  mow  tlinn  two 
niKiisitnil  five  hundred  yean,  Syraciiw  is  a  rnther  liundnom* 
])r»vini'ial  t<'iivn  of  mnro  ihnn  itixtocn  thotmml  inhabitants, 
i'lie  modern  town  i»ti1tll  Mittiiitod  on  the  pcninMnlaor  isUnd 
called  Orty(;iit,  connected  nrtiticiatty  with  th«  miiitiUntl  in 
ancient  tim<«.  It  wns  on  this  penitt^ii.  about  two  niil«e 
in  ciroitntforener,  which  iwrtiidly  forntit  thv  greater  |>ort, 
that  the  toivn  of"  Syi'u(!iiae  was  first  fotimkd.  A«  il  ri«ie  in 
importance  and  proflperity  it  overHowed  on  to  the  ntaiiiland, 
until  five  utnv  towns,  there  Kitti:iti'd,  were  eompri^  wilhui 
its  vraJb'.  lly  dei^ret-s  Iheau  siibnrh!!  or  toivna  of  I'ormci  ilaVH 
have  decayed  and  erumbled  into  dust,  until  now  a  few  raina 
are  the  only  evidence  of  their  presence.  The  most  impor- 
tant and  int«rc«ting  arc  the  I^ntomiw  or  quarries,  the  ca' 
cvmlw,  the  remains  of  Die  OrecBt  thcntrc,  of  Uio  Ho 
amphitheatre,  of  the  wallH  that  diirrounded  the  city, 
fru'„'ment«  of  various  templee  and  buihlin^^.  All  these  nii 
arc  dcHcrvinj;  of  mrcfiil  gliidy  and  invcfttif^iitioii,  ma  is  the 
town  itself.  The  liilter  ooiilainii  much  to  int/rcol  the 
classical  traveller,  and  more  especially  a  temple  of  Minerva, 
sow  doing  duty  as  the  eatliednil,  and  the  fountain  of  Are- 
tliusa,  still  M  v\fuT  and  im  ahinxliint  as  when  in  olden  llniM 
the  Greeks  thou^^it  thev  ttaw  in  it  ttie  nymph  AnithuH 
hastening  to  t)ic  Kca,  and  mingling  her  waters  with  those 
of  Iter  lover  Ali'heuii,  the  river  god,  from  whom  ahe  bad 
tried  in  vain  to  tly. 

The  fountain  of  Arelhima  is  an  abnndant  sprint;  of 
frcvh  water,  nhich  bnntx  out  of  n  cave  on  tltc  seuFliore 
ol  the  island  of  Ortygia,  and  which  nas  and  in  atilt  iwpa- 
nted  from  the  sen  by  one  of  the  bastions  of  the  city 
wait,  so  as  to  form  u  seniioirctilnr  ]x>ol  or  Imsin.  It  was 
auppowed  to  be  part  of  a  neij^hbourin^  river,  the  Al|>li 
which  bad  paswd  under  the  sen  that  separates  tbe  ieU 
from  the  maiiihind  by  a  xnbtermneun  passage.  11ii 
Virgil  describe:!  it  in  tbc  "  .Jineid :" 


SYRACUSE — CLtMATR.  453 

"  Alplieum  fama  ««t  h\ii>,  Klitlia  amiMiBi 
nltu  ogiaw  nan  au1>t«r,  mare;  qui  iiiiiic 
On,  AtwtbtuB.  tuo  tjiotilui  oonfnnilitur  nndii," 

Carried  away  hy  cldssical  rocollectiotw,  I  for^t  at  Brat 
nctcorvlu^icul  and  Iwtwiioal  «'.iidit»,  but  «auu  my  thouijliU 
reUinidd  to  a  more  jiraotioal  chuiiiicl.  At  Syracuse,  aadl 
in  ttie  plains  that  eurrouDd  it,  I  fuuiid  Utat  llio  cooling 
inluvnoo  of)tnow-clud  Etna  w«a  «vid<:tiUy  Ivvs.  Tlie  Ijcniun 
Atid  OrauKe  trem  were  urM[iiii^  otil  of  vallc-y^  and  slieller, 
aod  wcro  Uffti^r.  Still  ev«Q  here,  in  the  extreme  euuth  of 
£i«ily,  Uic  vaJuv  of  protecttoD  is  fully  illuBtralcd.  llio 
twu  larg^iit  Orange  uml  Lemoii  trt-c*  that  I  Kaw  in  Sit'ily 
were  growing  in  one  ol  tlie  Lituii)i«i;  tlio  Lemua  tree  uua 
MS  lar<;o  ss  a  (fiwd'sised  oak.  Tbee«  l<aton)i»  are  eiior- 
iu«iiw  vxcavalionn  or  ijaarnes  in  llii.'  solid  rock,  made  in 
the  days  of  SyraciiMii  proiijH^rily,  to  funiisli  »lviie  fur  its 
U-mplus,  its  walk,  its  Iniildiu^.  In  one  of  these  wcro 
luu^  cunlintMl  Nicius  and  thu  seven  thousand  Athenians 
Lakeit  with  him  on  the  hunks  oftiie  river  /Vsinarus,  wheu 
thoy  IIikI,  defeated,  from  the  ualU  of  Syraeiiai:.  Another, 
u  vant  excavation  in  the  siiapo  ol'tlie  letter  S,  is  still  called 
Uionysius'  ear,  from  iU  heiiig  ■'utipoxed  tliat  it  wan  excu- 
vated  in  tLis  shape  in  order  lh4t  the  tyrant  Dionysiua 
ini;;hl  hear  the  t-oiiversatiou  of  hie  jirisoncrs,  from  u  private 
chamber  aeounlicDlly  contrived. 

These  qua rriea  or  eKvavatiunit,  from  fifty  to  one  hundred 
fvet  deep,  have  heen  for  centuries  converted  into  ^rdens, 
and  SIC  the  iL-enc  of  the  moi>t  luxuriant  Icrtility;  some  of 
the  i^emoit  and  Urani^e  tm-e  are  ri-(fiilar  forvKt  IrL-u.  At 
the  hoti«tm  uf  lliis  novel  kind  of  Sit^ili m  i^ou^ervatury  tliuy 
have  Bunshiue  and  warmth,  and  <|utte  escape  all  cold  uintls. 

The  view  from  Synieusu  and  from  the  hi'i-;ht»  U>  the 
noi'th-mtl  railed  Aer<idina,  where  the  piincipal  jiart  i>f 
old  Svracuw  was  huilt,  extends  over  a  mari^hy,  il!-cul- 
tivutul,  unlicallhy  plain,  lJiroU)rh  whieh  muundor*  the 
rivLT  Anapiia.  Tills  plain,  of  alluvial  Mtil,  contributed  to 
maintain  Uie  ei^jht  hundred  thousand  people  the  city  for* 
merly  oonUioed.  The  soil  and  suu  are  there,  still  the  rame, 
but  ihe  labour  of  former  days,  tlie  energetic  action  of  man, 
U  wautiujf. 


454 


SICILY. 


The  more  I  eoe  of  the  south  of  Europe  the  more  I  In- 
come cDnvinvcd  that  ilit  vauntvd  Tertility  is  a  mere  cnvUi, 
unlees  Uhour  and  capitu)  oun  be  brought  to  bear.  Southern 
rivers  left  to  themselvvB  carry  devastation  with  tbcm, 
denude  the  mouiilnin  rvstons,  overflow  the  plaiim,  uixl 
render  them  pi^tilciitin)  miir^hcH,  ne  we  have  seen  when 
spealcinj;  of  Coraica.  It  reijuinw  immenm;  l«l>oiir,  iiiul 
(frrot  capital,  to  koo[>  them  tvitlnii  butiiid^,  to  tnattv  thf*Ri 
fertilize  the  rei-ioTis  which  they  notild  uthcrwiso  destroy  or 
render  uitinbnbitahlv.  Withdraw  the  liibour,  leave  them 
to  Iheroselvefi,  and  you  very  soon  get  tnarxhc*'  liko  the 
Pontine,  the  Tuvcan,  the  Corsiwn,  now  all  but  iininliabi* 
table  (Vom  innlariii,  but  wliieli  formerly  ntmrishnl  hiindrede 
of  thousands  of  iuhiibituntii.  On  the  oUivr  hand  tJw 
mountain  lilies,  the  dry  plains  in  the  south,  led  alone,  UN* 
wat«rt-d,  nri-  piirtlietl,  burnt  up  by  the  sun.  They  too 
require  bihour  and  cupitul  (ut  tlieir  inherent  I'l-rtiUty  to  be 
developed. 

Svractise  was  the  moat  southern  re^on  of  Sictty  that  I 
rencned.  I  was  very  desirous,  as  prwioualy  statetl,  to 
hnvu  examined  the  central  iinil  «oiiih-wcetum  ro;^onB  ot  tliu 
ishiml,  and  emild  uiisily  hitvi-  dont*  >■')  by  ri-tiimini;  Ui 
I'iilermo  thmu^h  these  parts  of  the  iBland.  Ilio  ri-|>orts 
ul'dnn^r  to  tr;ivcllets,  however,  thai  reached  meat  Pulermu 
were  i;initirmed  iit  Synicuse,  no  I  thmi^ht  it  best  to  retraeu 
my  utefis,  and  return  by  Catunin,  and  Medina. 

Limited  as  it  thus  proved,  my  exploration  of  Sicily 
waa,  hawcTcr,  sufBciently  extensive  to  demonstrate  tlie  fael 
atredtdy  Hsaerted — vii:.,  that  luur  ur  live  ditgm:*  of  lutitude 
barely  com|)enHite  for  the  complete  proteotiuu  from  iiortli 
wiuitK  whieli  U  found  in  the  more  fnvoated  parts  of  thd 
ttiviera,  between  Nitw  and  (ienoit.  The  proof  of  this  eli- 
Dtate  fact  is  found  in  the  circumslanee,  that  not  only  arc  tli« 
ve)^table  productions  of  Sicily  and  of  the  Kiviera  all  but 
identical,  but  that  the  progreifK  of  i>pring  u  tiio  same  in  the 
two  region*.  We  may  allow  an  advunta*^  to  Sieily,  even 
on  the  north  and  ejut  coast,  where  there  is  ountplcte  shelter 
and  protection  from  the  north,  or  from  c>ild  mountain 
bla«t«.  No  doubt  on  the  south -wen  tern  count,  opposite 
Africa,  this  advauta^  is  still  greater,  but  I  do  not  thin 


FROM  MKSSIXA  TO  MARSEILLKS. 


455 


would  be  itQ^aible  for  iaialids  to  ]>a»t  the  winter  in  any  of 
the  small  towns  ol'  tlie  eouth-western  coast  with  any  Jcjrfiio 
of  comfort.  It  may  at  least  be  surmtced  tlint  Huch  in  the 
GUKt!,  fruni  tho  fnct  nloni;  thiit  tjMvdIera  have  lo  take  pro- 
visiune  witli  them,  lui  for  a  aea  voyage. 

On  returuini;  to  Messina  I  fearnt,  to  my  very  grivt 
NitiK faction,  that  the  Frondi  stcwmcr  uun  tspei-tvtl  from 
Alexandria  the  next  day,  und  would  sail  fur  Alarseilles 
ilirMt.  That  day  was  spent  rather  anxiously  w-iitinfj  foi' 
it)  theieneeof  LsoIatioD  bad  incrriucil  u|)ou  in t:,  und  now 
that  Diy  thmight«  were  turned  homewards,  I  wiu  atixiotu 
to  de|)art  even  from  sunny,  amilinj;  Sicily,  I  shall  not 
readily  for^^ct  the  pleasure  with  whicli  I  snw  the  Eurg- 
anlAe  eiitiir  the  port  towards  evenini;,  as  1  wax  siittiu^ 
alone  at  the  window  of  my  room.  She  in  a  n»ble  suretv 
Ktwimor  of  more  than  two  thousand  tons,  and  •;li<Uid 
silunlly  Olid  miijeslieiilly  into  the  port,  like  »  large  black 
Kivan,  like  a  tbinf;  of  life. 

We  slArted  that  eveain;^,  passed  tlie  ever-smolciuft,  ever- 
tl<unin(F  Slrvnibolt  volcano  a  lew  hours  later,  und  then  wur« 
soon  out  of  «i-;ht  of  land  in  the  old  TyrrlietiUii  Sm.  The 
sbeanior  was  a  splendid  ship,  with  acoominoilation  for  a 
hundred  imd  thiity  ciibin  pas8(.-n<^-is.  As  theie  were  not 
thirty  on  biMird,  I  had  a  lar-^  vubin  to  myii>-ir,  wh-.-ru  I  viept 
ncuirly  as  well  itN  I  ithould  have  dont)  in  my  own  buuHe.  We 
were  three  nights  and  two  days  on  lioard,  fruiD  Monday 
eveniit;;  to  Thursday  mornin;;,  when  w«  t^chcd  .Marveillei', 
and,  UK  the  weMlhur  oontlnui-d  tine,  I  ({uitv  eiijuyeil  the 
voya^,  iilthoii^li  ii  bad  Kuilor  in  bud  weathur. 

My  cumpo^tDon  this  time  was  a  middte-sued  merchant 
euplaiu,  who  had  been  bL-atiiij;  about  thu  world  Jur  more 
thiin  thirty  yeiin).  He  t-dd  mc  many  Htrunge  tales,  but 
none  mure  interimtini;  tluin  lilti  own.  Three  yiars  previous 
he  was  in  command  of  a  merchant  ship  bound  for  Dtienos 
Ayre<<.  When  muinn-;  the  American  coa^it  he  wiut  overljiken 
hy  a  terrible  i>t4>rm,  nud  alter  UittJin)f  with  the  elements  lor 
three  days  and  ni;;ht«,  the  ship  bec»me  water -lo^-^>-d,  titlvrly 
tiumniia^ublu,  and  was  vaatarhorc.  The  brcakerM  iind  snrf 
weri!  Icrrilic,  und,  ulune  of  all  tlie  crew,  he  reiii-Ued  the  lund, 
lie  scarcely  kitew  how.     On  recovering  from  the  hrst  stupor 


BICILY. 


he  tanaH  that  llie  coast  was  a  law  sandy  oa«,  wiili  no  evU 
il«ncu  of  hubitiilidi).  Hv  wnu  ovijTCOino  with  faligiiv  and 
drotvxiiiis'K,  never  having  slept  lor  thive  niglitK  an<l  daj'*, 
nnil  Uncling  two  emiil,v  (.-Jieks  on  Uil*  bmcb,  knocktd  the 
heads  oiil,  put  them  close  tn^fi'lbi-r.  and  cnpt  in  lor  slicllor, 
OS  lliiTL-  WMs  B  «)U1  wind  Mowing.  In  thin  im|)roniptu 
rcinut  hu  Mlcpt  twolve  >ir  fifteen  lionrs,  Init,  on  siviikin^, 
fuumi  tUut  lie  cuuld  not  move.  The  two  cstske  hud  (>li;-titly 
p«iti>d,  and  bi?t«-con  tliu  two  »  small  chink  or  xpocc  rL-iiiiiined, 
through  which  the  wind  hud  «truclc  hJaloio^,  prciduviti);  a 
hand  ol'  aeute  rlieumotio  puin.  He  waa  irescue^l  by  aoiue  of 
the  inhahitante  ol'ttie  c-guiitry,  attracted  (o  thv  vjiot  hy  tbe 
wreck,  l>iit  never  ri.'Ci>vercd  tb«  vflTeul*  of  the  night's  oxpo- 
sute,  and  hud  never  eince  tlu-n  l)een  ahle  to  fulluw  bJa  usual 
eearannt>  life.  He  had  ouuseiiuontiy  accej'tcd  the  O&vO  tit 
eurveyor  lo  Lloyds. 

The  duty  of  tlie  snrvcyon  to  thia  insnrance  eomimny  is 
to  truiiB|)orl  ihemselves,  when  ordered,  to  any  point  wliero 
a  wreuk  nceura,  to  examine  into  the  oiroamotflnoes  of  tho 
Coaa,  in  the  interest  of  the  ci>m|miiy,  and  to  make  oertuiii 
Unit  till'  ehiitn  made  for  innnruncw  ia  jieTfeiiUy  Irueund  real, 
llo  liiidjust  been  sent  in  this  muDner  to  the  vieitiily  of 
Uriudiiii,  in  the  Adriatie.  A  vessel  laden  with  itrrn  hul 
gone  a^pxiuiid  in  a  gah-,  and  the  cuptuin  had  re|Kirted  that 
it  wa.1  H  perfect  wreck,  and  that  »hii>  and  car^fo  were  lust. 
On  arriviu^  he  found  the  ship  stranded,  htil  not  hroken  up, 
and  by  It  judicious  expenditure  of  Rve  hundred  pounds,  ha 
got  it  oir,  thuH  Kavin^;  Ixilh  nhip  and  eari^o,  and  his  eniployera 
tnaiiy  thou^uni  pound*,  lie  told  me  that  he  lived  with  hi« 
wile  and  family  at  Itjtli,  and  that  ho  was  llina  hiilde  ut  an 
hour's  ngttM  lo  be  Kent  to  any  part  uf  tho  globe  on  similar 
n)iii!iii>n!i.  He  waa  puid  by  a  regular  salary,  with  tho  addi- 
tion of  travelliu^  expenses.  It  is  a  eiugufar  posiUon,  to  he 
quietly  at  home  with  one's  family  in  the  morning,  in  an 
ioiHod  town,  liable  labexeDt  at  an  hour's  iioliee  to  any  j^rt 
of  th«  habitable  world,  ^ay  to  China,  to  Australia,  to  South 
America. 

On  the  morning  of  the  wvond  day  we  paand  tlirougb 
th(!  i-truitA  between  Cursii-a  and  itdiiifneio,  These  straits 
arc  most  ptctarcsqtie>  and  the  iit«amer  glides  between  rook 


THE  STRAITS  OF  BONIFACIO— A  SHIPWBECE.    457 

and  isletfi,  very  similar  to  those  that  skirt  the  coast  on  the 
way  from  the  Crican  canal  to  Oban.  Caprera  is  pasaed  at 
the  eaetem  entrance  of  the  straits,  and  we  looked  with 
interest  at  Garibaldi's  little  house,  which  we  saw  distinctly. 
These  straitn  are  free  from  danger  in  fine  weather,  but  are 
very  perilous  in  stormy  times,  especially  to  sailing 
vessels,  which  are  constantly  lost  in  winter,  I  was  told 
of  a  singular  and  disastrous  wreck  that  occurred  at  the 
time  of  the  Crimean  war.  A  French  transport,  with  two 
regiments  on  board,  on  their  way  from  Toulon  to  the 
Crimea,  was  wrecked  near  Bonifacio,  but  the  men  saved. 
They  managed  to  land  on  the  Corsican  coast,  and  were 
taken  back  to  Toulon.  From  thence  they  made  a  fresh 
start  for  the  Crimea,  in  a  steam  frigate,  the  SfMillante. 
Again  at  the  Straits  of  Bonifacio  they  encountered  a  eevere 
storm,  and  this  time  the  vessel  ran  on  a  rook,  foundered, 
aud  out  of  2500  men,  not  a  soul  was  saved.  There  was  a 
fatality  over  these  poor  soldiers ;  they  were  not  to  escape  a 
watery  tomb.  Hundreds  of  bodies  wore  thrown  up  on  the 
adjoining  sliorex,  and  were  buried  in  the  cemettiry  of  one  of 
the  islunds.  The  body  of  the  uaptain  was  found  dressfd  in 
full  uniform,  with  all  his  decorations  on;  he  had  dressed 
to  die ! 

Our  progress  continued  easy  and  prosperous  in  the 
splendid  ship.  Several  times  the  sea  rose,  but  we  scarcely 
felt  it,  so  great  wiis  the  size  of  the  vessel,  aud  so  free  was 
it  I'rom  motion.  On  the  Thursday  morning  we  reached 
Marseilles,  fifty-six  hours  alter  leaving  Messina,  and  then 
all  ii^olalion  finished,  for  even  thus  early  I  fouud  myself  in 
the  midst  of  valued  friends. 


CHAPTER  Xni. 

aARDINIA. 
nil!  VDTAOC— Li  mDDKI,tt\A— THB  STItilTa  Or  I10«I»A CIO— rUTHMUt 

ur<)ciui>:iY— roHTtiTimHiu — sahmrI — cwuu — OHistiNo — MiLKoLU 

— TIICKINC  AXtl  1.UII  MINKH — CtCUitKt. 

Os  Un!  19th  of  April.  1S74,  I  left  Lo;th«ni  for  Vor 
Tortea,  in  the  ScruitH  ol  Itonifncio,  iiiitl  tht;  jmitcipiil  iiurlticni 
port  of  Snnliniii,  toiiclitii^  ul  Uo^Liii.  It  was  nu  lon;;cr  my 
old  fmiid  tlic  f'irffi/io  wliicb  performed  tbis  vuyii>;u,  Liiit  ii 
loofl  tmiTow  fii^l  KtvnmiT,  <\u\Ui  now.     Fortuiiutvl}'  for  th« 

CBseHj^ere  the  w<^atlier  wiu  ca\m,  as  ollii^rwiBe  we  abould 
ve  FUirvred  l^arfully,  sill  thesu  long  narroMr  swill  tsUwiners 
Wtni;  "  tvrriblv"  roUerx.  Oti  this  oucneioii  ttgniii  I  CM'iipod 
a  ttniblc  Klorm  liy  mi  iw  til  ling  the  hiironieter.  I  iiiU'iulL-d 
Martin;;  hy  h  pruvium*  ateainor  on  the  Ijib,  but  the 
huronu'tcr  colbfiticd  half  an  inuh,  so  1  went  to  Florciicc, 
vlnyvil  lh<.T>-  u  It-w  days,  and  od  the  lUth  hud  the  banofil  of 
the  lull  that  usually  follows  a  Htonii,  Tliua  once  mure  I 
h«d  R  oaIui  and  plensant  iiumq)^  to  Itustia,  remaininf;  on 
deck  uU  <l]iy,  w«(cliiii]f  nt  first  the  rocwlin;;  »i<'>nilniuf>  of 
till!  umiiiland,  uud  luivr  thoKc  n(  Coraien,  an  they  ioi>nii,-d 
Wi^r  ant)  Iflc^er  on  the  liorbuut. 

Ou  tliJH  ouviiiiiou  vre  piutsed  close  nndvr  th«  isliinJ  of 
Capntja,  which  Uvs  midwiiy  hclwi-cn  Ijc^lfrii  and  Contc*. 
It  IS  n  rocky  mouiittiitioua  ixlL-t,  whioli  rises  boldly  out  of 
the  sua  lo  a  voiiMdembli;  elevation,  and  is  only  a  lew  mile« 
in  vircunifcreut.-i<.  Its  precipitous  slopus  ore  enverx-d  with 
Y^eimion ;  and  on  the  Mutheni  shore  there  ia  a  villii}r«, 
with  its  smnll  church,  principally  inhabited  by  Bslieruien. 
Tbcro  is,  1  wns  tuld,  but  little  '.'omniunieatiou  with  the 
inainluiiil,  and  life  on  Huch  an  iKli't  imivt  ho  merely  an 
improved  editiun  of  living  iu  Kddystone  lighthouse.  And 
yel,  were  wo  at  C'apn^a,  we  alioulil  liiid  the  dmoia  of  lite, 
with  its  vieivsiCudes  and  passiuns,  );oingoiias  in  tho  lur^^-Ht 
cities.     llucoaD  life  ia  cvcrywhero  tbo  siime,  and  t»unli'~^ 


man  kind     I 


LA  MADDELEKA. 


459 


everywlior*  rdproiliiccn  its  diaraotwistics,  only  on  a  different 
stuj^'i--,  ttiul  ill  u  nxicu  or  liiut  (Iruiniiltc  fomi. 

In  the  alleiiioon  we  caine-to  outside  the  port  of  B:islia, 
Kilil  I  h»d  the  pleusui'O  of  wuloomiD^  a  boatlond  of  pre- 
viounly  npprijieil  Coreican  frivndx.  Their  wurm  grecliiif; 
made  me  r^givl  that  I  could  nut  remain  on  the  hospiiaMo 
shoreB  of  their  lovely  island.  As  soon,  however,  as  we  had 
4li!liv«-red  iind  recvived  our  letters  and  ptisi^cn^irs,  wr  ii^in 
elarted,  thii  time  for  Sardiniii.  The  KU-iiiiu-rs  run  aioHj; 
thtt  eustern  sliore  of  Corsica  all  the  way  to  tlie  Siraita,  so 
ihiit  r  «pciit  the  oveninf;,  until  ni^^litfuU,  gazing  on  the 
welUretnirmbci-ed  mouutiiins  and  coast  line. 

I'lie  moon  rose  early,  shedding  iu  rmliiince  over  the 
trciDuloua  sea,  and  reminding  me  of  Virgil's  chariuinjf 
lntnii*tich : 

**■  .  .  fplnndot  trvnitilii  euh  luriiini!  poiilos." 

The  niglit  w«8  p««ceiul,  and  tvlion  wc  rvautivd  the  deek 
the  next  morniRj;  at  kix  oVIoctc,  the  steamer  wai  lyings 
in  front  off  the  luwn  and  isbnd  of  La  Maddclenu. 
Itiu  roeky  island  of  Mnddelcnn  is  out  of  an  intricate 
Arc4iipelugo  of  small  iKlamha  whiuh  occupy  the  eaat«ira 
extremity  of  the  Straita  of  Itoniliwsio,  half  way  between 
Conieii  and  Sardinia.  It  has  a  ^od  port,  and  i«  so 
shelteriKl  hy  lint  otlK-r  iitUnd*  that  ww  uppcarod  to  he  in  m 
lake,  BUiToundud  l>y  ruek«  and  mgunUiiiiH.  This  position 
Ijivifi  a  most  picturvsque  appearance  to  the  littlo  town, 
which  in  huilt  on  h  i^-ntle  slopu  tiiiin^  fiom  the  sun.  The 
patch  of  small,  onu  or  twoiitoried  hiMiMw,  and  the  humhte 
church,  nesMinR  on  the  sea-shm-e,  with  a  buckj^ruund  of 
grey  rooky  muontains  in  cluse  prosimitv,  had  a  charniini; 
elfeel,  enhanced  hy  the  oiiniiliine  and  the  frimbniTm  of  an 
eurly  morn  in  a  southern  reijiun,  ^Ve  ntibnded  lots  of 
xtDivi  into  the  barlia  that  pot  off  from  the  shore,  iron 
iied-iteads,  iron  rniting)=,  I'lirnitnre,  (^rocerieii,  some  largfl 
mirrors,  ke^s  of  spiiiu,  and  many  other  evidcnoos  of 
modem  civihsalion.  Little  Muddi-lenn,  owinj;  to  it«  centrsi 
position,  is  a  kind  of  thrivinf;  commercial  emporium  for 
these  gmtts,  espiHrially  lor  Sniilinin.  Caprera  oocnpicd  the 
horizon,  and  G.irib;itdi's  white  house  was  c|uit«  vtvihle. 

Oii(<u  more  under  weigh  we  eooa  cnurgvd  fiviii  our 
marine  "lake  "  into  the  wider  aud  more  open  part  of  tke 


460  SAftDiiiiA. 

Straits,  paMing  •  little  rocky  islet  on  vrbieli  vnis  n  Itfgv 
iron  cioea  to  commemnrHle  the  Iom  of  th«  French  transport, 
tbe  SAaillanle,  in  16u6.  It  \<!»a  on  this  rm-Ji  lliiit  it 
struck  on  a  tiloriny  winUVv  night.  As  1  haw  clvcwhiTU 
stated  not  u  kouI  whs  snred  out  uf  thW  on  bo«rJ  t  Oar 
captain,  an  experienced  talkative  old  GenocM  nailor,  who 
had  bwn  forty  yeare  at  smi,  Mtid  the  vcseel  wM  losl  owing 
to  tlic  im-xpirrionue  of  tlio  wiptitin.  He  was  coniiidcrvd  V^M 
be  a  |>oiid  iitid  experienced  ulHeer,  liul  had  nevur  iiven  ^^H 
tJte  Straita  of  Bonifucio  before,  and  us  there  ate  no  pilots  ' 
he  had  to  navi(;ato  his  vciwel  by  chnrlc,  nnd  that  in  u 
Htorniy  dark  winter'*  tii^ht  ihrongli  iKlandk,  rooka,  and 
shoals,  calculated  to  try  tbe  most  ex|>«rieuced  seninao ! 
My  friend  thuti);ht  he  could  hare  carrinl  the  vuescl  safely 
throuirh  rvi-n  on  itiiuh  m  night,  but  then  he  had  boi-n  in  the 
Straits  a  1liou<>and  timea,  in  all  weathers,  in  all  ^eu>>una,  day 
and  ni}flit.  Thai  very  nit^ht  he  wad  at  scm  hotueen  Nniiles 
and  Cii^liuri  in  a  small  titi-amer,  and  uas  all  bnt  Wt 
»llhiin>;li  in  opi-n  water  ;  he  only  ^aved  hi«  vtwM-l  by  dint 
of  ocamuiuibip.  The  Fruiii;h  captain  unghl  never  to  have 
Tentnred  the  passajte  in  such  weather.  Titers  was  ehelter 
within  reach  on  the  Sardinian  shore,  but,  beini;  i>^iorant  of 
tbe  locality,  and  clearly  unaware  of  liui  fact,  he  coiitinucl 
bis  ouiirae,  and  ihua  saciiliced  bis  own  lile  aitd  tboee  of 
260U  men ! 

On  puBin^;  ont  of  tlic  straits  we  hnd  Corsica  to  tb« 
nortli,  the  open  aea  to  the  wviit,  and  the  Uulf  uf  Aslnara  to 
tbe  Gouth-wcst.  Our  conree  was  directed  to  the  »outb- 
wcatcrn  extremity  of  the  laller,  its  n>u«l  slieltered  region, 
and  at  one  o'clock  we  readied  I'orto  Torrea.  Our  entrance 
into  the  small  haibuur  vraa  fur  aunie  time  impeded  by  a 
bu^je  French  trani-port,  which  was  cmbnrkin;;  Sardinian 
ponica.  This  plauiing  <ic4rii|Mitiiin  was  continued  with  the 
utmoat  calmni-SH,  jtut  as  if  we  hntl  not  been  waiting,  and 
wc  hod  tbe  pleasure  of  seeing  many  young  poaics  daiiglintf 
in  the  uir,  in  a  state  of  great  terror  and  agony  of  ininu, 
sod  also  of  tvitucwtiig  an  attack  of  southcni  indignation 
with  which  our  really  amiable  captain  was  seised,  llis 
eycM  liu-ruUy  lUvhed  Gre,  his  hair  all  but  stood  on  end,  and 
lie  all  but  foamed  at  tjio  nioulb  with  indignation.     Nor 


PHYSICAL  OKOORAPQV  OF  SARDIXIA.         461 


. 


was  he  dilciit ;  on  tlie  contniry,  he  gave  vent  to  a  torrent  of 
olijiir^ttiou  and  vituperation,  which  prcivetl  to  n«  tt  firxt 
rate  lesaon  in  Itiilinn.  Al  hut  the  obstacle  to  our  sntrAnce 
was  overeniDC  ntiil  we  ciitoriid. 

Tliiu  ended  our  vaj's^  from  Leghorn  to  Sardinia  through 
the  much  drpadcd  Slruita  of  Bonitncio,  ivhJL'h,  ovin;;  to  the 
fini)  weather,  proved  a  mere  pleawurc  criiii'c.  1  have  now 
MI  three  dilli-Tenl  occnsions  pusncd  throiigti  them  iiiid 
always  in  calm  wcntlier,  n,  tliiit  it  rv'tiuircs  on  my  part  nii 
ell'urt  or  imagination  to  lliink  of  there  Straits  ns  ^lorm  urn) 
wivvc  towed,  liivhed  into  t'urv  hy  the  huiricnne,  uml  ax  the 
grave  of  many  noble  ships — of  many  Ihotisatidn  of  hardy 
mariners. 

PUYSICAL   CEODnAPEiy   or  UBDIXtA. 

Sat^inia  is  an  island  It?  miles  long,  betwe«n  latitude 
&%"  iind  ■il*,  and  7D  wide  in  ils  brondcst  jMirt.  It  is 
in  ninu-tenths  of  it*  extent  u  m<iiintatnou<:  region,  bnt  the 
mountains  do  not  ti*e  »»  high  aa  those  of  Cervicu.  Th« 
monntains  in  the  noiLliern  and  western  region  are  mostly 
grnnilic.  When  not  of  thin  formation  they  are  principally 
puluoZoic,  often  itcbiidic,  with  biuutt  ertipping  ont,  or  with 
caleureous  formation*  lying  on  the  schists.  It  is  prin- 
cipally at  this  point  of  contact  that  minerals,  load  and  xine, 
are  itiKe»vercd.  Between  Torlo  Torres  and  Samari  tber« 
is  a  lime  formation,  mixed  with  white  sand,  so  that  the 
vegetation  of  lime  soils  is  rife ;  but  in  a  oonsiilerable 
portion  of  the  island  the  soil  is  exclusively  granitic  or 
KhiKlie,  an<l  in  these  regions  the  vegetation  aiuumes  tlie 
characteristics  of  sucll  soils. 

The  monntaiDS  of  Sardinia  occupy  the  cactcrn  and 
wcatiTn  regions  of  the  island  ;  the  centre  is  ennnlitiilcd  by 
a  series  of  plains,  running  from  north  to  south,  eluvuled  in 
the  northern  half,  hiw  and  miirshy  in  the  lower  or  sonthem 
half.  They  are  called  camjiiitttui.  llirough  tlie  IuikI  of 
shaft  thus  formed  by  the  mountains,  running  north  and 
eolith  on  ench  side,  and  tlie  plains  in  the  middle,  thu  north- 
west and  the  north-i-ust  winds  rush  down  without  obvLacle 
of  any  kind,  and  oriive  at  C^ii-liari,  in  the  soutli,  »ti11  ax 
cold  winds  in  the  winter  months.     Thus  are   impressed 


463 


SABDIMA. 


npon  Oipsc  pliimc,  iind  even  npoi)Cagliiiri  itedr,  tlic  clmrac- 
t«ri>lics  »r  u  vriuU-r  cliinnti*  mnc-h  c»ltler  than  Uiut  of  tint 
western  Genoese  Kivivra,  m  evidenced  by  ve^tation. 
Sucli  i»  lUc  ivsult  of  tho  want  of  jimtoption  fmm  north 
winds  evMi  in  tli<?  noiiUi  of  tbt!  Moditcrranean,  three 
dearees  lurtlier  south  than  the  Riviera. 

The  mountiiinB  on  the  vii»i  and  nest  sppoarod  to  me,  as 
Taran  I  mw  them,  to  have  been  thinnii  up  in  grt-at  ood- 
lusion,  forming  elevated  valleys  and  mountain  suminitt 
riutnin)*  in  all  direction<«.  1  did  not  see  the  regular  hi^h 
riilfioti  or  npiiw  dcfwendiuff  rcguliirly  to  the  tea,  from  (■Mi  to 
west,  as  in  western  C'ontiea,  and  enc1u!>in^  protwtiM  valleys. 
Sorno  of  the  easlprn  mountains  attain  a  ooiieid'^rahlu  eleva- 
tion,    Thim  M.  Qunnargi'iitu  ts  Qiy^  fuel  nliove  the  seji. 

Tints  the  vG)jetatio»  uj  the  mi)untjiiii«  and  valli-yit  on  the 
flout h -eastern  side  of  the  island,  abntit  I^lfr>ia9,  where  I 
rxnmincd  ihcm,  prcGcnlfl  a  southern  Ttf<;etAlion,  it  is  true, 
but  not  a  vet^tation  indicatini;  exceptional  wintj.>r  warmth, 
W  on  the  western  Uvnoenu  Bivier* — rather  the  revvrac. 


ronrti  ToititKS — SASSAni. 


nty  of 


Pkirto  Torres  is  merely  composed  of  a  fonr  smnll  he 
u-ineshoT>8,  and  wnTtliou»«.  Oning  to  the  proximity 
soft  wilier  marHhes  unU  luke-i  formed  by  the  partial  (-lonnrv 
.  of  the  mouth  of  a  emnll  river,  Porto  Torres  is  a  prey  to 
maliiria,  and  ho  nnhcahliy  during  tbn  siinitner  and  aiitumD 
that  no  one  remains  who  can  pnstiibly  ^et  away.  Tbo 
Ureal  SunlinJan  lliiilwiiy,  whieh  will  »ooii  pass  thronfrli  tbe 
entire  len;,;th  of  the  iolund  down  to  Cii|;;liari,  Wuins  here, 
and  has  been  open  several  years.  Its  existenee  has  tendea 
Btill  more  to  depopiiliilc  IVirt-o  Torres,  a*  both  p«ssen|!(era 
and  n'xxU  are  now  easily  traitslerrvd  to  Snssari,  tUvvea 
MBiU'*  diBtunt. 

The  presenee  of  a  railway,  with  comfortablo  first-closa 
carria|^-s,  throws  sueli  a  halo  of  eivilixation  over  any  place 
t])ut  it  is  impossible,  to  think  one's  sidf  in  u  Iwrliarous  or 
even  out-of-the-way  country  wbeie  it  exists.  The  iinprea- 
sion  priiducvd  on  me  and  on  n>y  travelliii;^  cQm|>anioii — for 
this  time  I  bad  one,  a  nephew — was,  therefore,  lavourable; 


FOBTO  TORHES — SASSARt. 


463 


and  we  arrived  at  Sansui  id  a  very  jubilant,  oontcittcd 
rraine  of  mm<I. 

SaMKiiri,  the  capital  of  northern  Sardinia,  has  a  popnla- 
tioii  of  ^£,000.     It  ia  eituatod  at  an  flvvation  uf  tt50  fi^t 
a1>ove  tliL-  iK-Ji,   which   removes   it   from    the    penikious 
inlluenco   of   the   murehes   near   the   shore,  and   Is   huilt 
on  the  slope  of  a  vviy  stci-p  Kill.     This  lull,  indc'd,  it  fo 
stocp  that  It  I"  a  pt'ri'fct  toil  to  aitceiid  from  the  luwor  to 
tho  upper  part  of  the  town,  throiij(:h  the  princ!|>al  street. 
This  WG  did  on    leaving;  the   raiUvny-stalion,  and   found 
tolerable  accommodiition  nt  the  Alherfro  d'ltulia.     Most  of 
the  inns  in  iinfrec|uented  Italiun  towns  only  occnpy  one  or 
two  storeys  in  one  of  the  ordinary  houFies,  and  this  was  no 
exception  to  the  nile.     However,  we  did  not  starve  eilJicr 
here  or  nnyivhi-re  else  in  Sardinia.     \Vhut  with  gnod  wine, , 
jiood  bread,  iind  freah  epja  nrf  lilHiim — everywhere  to  bs  i 
found  in  sonthorn  Europe— and  with  suvh  lisli.  mi-at,  o[| 
^nie  as  the  traveller  ehances  to  get,  no  one  iiivd  sulTerJ 
^'oni  famine  in  the  moiit  onfrei^uentt'd  recent.     1-1om  at] 
'  jbt  ai%,  no  doubt,  a   trouble— a  j;rievoua  one,  and   if| 
vei   to   have  their  way,  would  sorely  mar  the  plea^  i 
^an  nnd  hcalth-bonelit  ol'  travel]in<>  with  all  whom  thej^J 
nttaelc ;  but  ii  lew  botiK-H  »f  Persian  jioitder,  or  Pi>iidre  Tn> 
seotivide,  alTurd  tbe  means  of  oHeriii);  battle,  and  what  iij 
more^  of  con<|iierin^, 

I  hud  a  U-ttvi'  of  introduction  to  Si<;n(ir  Crifpo,  the 
^^  leadiuj;  phyxiciun  at  Susitari,  and  a  retired  l*ri>f<.-wor  of  the 
^■University.  Under  his  guidance,  and  with  hi«  fnendly 
^HBtt!ii»lanee,  I  muw  nil  that  there  was  to  ho  seen  at  Snssari  iu 
^^k  couple  of  days — a  new  hospital,  with  tar)^e  niry  wards;  h 
"  new  prison,  on  the  solitary  I'ciitonvitte  plan,  wliieli  ha* 
cost  lO.tlljO/.,  and  appeared  to  me  siidly  unsuiled  to  the 
uneiiltivated  mindii  ol  the  half  wild  Surd*;  tht  Uidvi-rsity, 
with  it*  lecture- rooms,  library,  and  museum ;  the  Karraclta ; 
[the  Italian  Opera  House;  und  tile  public  garden. 

Tberi.'  arc  many  ^od  aho[M  at  Sutwuri,  und  it  is  evidently 

'1  centre  of  an  extensive  diatriot  and  of  a  bir^e  area  of 

anlulion,  the  wants  nf  which  it  supplies.     Its  own  popu- 

Hm  of  S2,0l)CI,  however,  is  compgRcil,  in  a  jfTcat  measure, 

of  agrieullutal  labourers,  who  number  ii,HO{},  a  fact  whiob 


464 


SARDINIA. 


i1)n»tTnbw  a  v^ry  nini^ulur  nociiil  conJition  in  Sardinia. 
Tliey  cultivutc  tlic  sniToiiniliii^  cotintrv  tor  tnnny  milr* 
distniit,  walking;  or  riilini;  little  wiry  Snra  horses,  aoeorxlinff 
to  thi'ir  mruiis.  Iluti  slnti-  of  thing*  is  n  fmtiire  throo 
out  Sardiiiiu.  Tlie  t-utiii!  poruliitioii  lire«  Ktill  in  thv 
lowDB  or  lor^e  vilhijres,  the  labourers  lofinj;  »  ^rcat  [wrt 
their  time  un<l  »trrngth,  tnorning  iiikI  evening;,  in  g<>iii^ 
Hml  from  tht-ir  work.  Thcrv  aru  tio  rsrm  homoitviKlK,  a 
scarcely  any  small  villages,  evon  in  the  more  fertile  u 
moip  populated  parts  of  the  country. 

Many  reiuionit  are  i;ivi'n  for  UnK  utalt-  of  thtngK  by  the 
Sards  themselves.  I'li-stly,  the  insecurity  o(  the  country, 
until  quite  recently,  owing  to  lirijj^iida^ie.  Seeondly,  tbo 
fear  (if  malaria,  the  towns  and  large  vitlii)^H  heini;  ifene- 
rally  ttuilt  in  reeions  con^tderi'd  free  from  malaria,  unti  living 
considered  healthier  «a  towns  than  the  country,  whidi 
is  (feiierally  fevtcd  as  malarious.  The  peiu«nt«  Hy  toihe 
t'iKos  at  ni:;hl,  under  the  imprcxxion  that  it  iv  uiiwbolc- 
Bomo  to  flecp  anywhere  in  the  country.  Thirdly,  llic 
vtronfily  felt  and  expres«ed  desire  nf  the  women  to  liv 
together,  with  their  relatives  and  friends,  with  whom  th 
can  ROMiip  and  talk  all  day.  Tl)''y  are  Kaid  to  rofui 
nofitivoly  to  live  isolated  in  the  country,  in  a  farmhguM  fgr 
iii'itaQce. 

The  consequemces  are  most  dienstroue  in  a  social  point  of 
view.  Although  wngc«  are  not  very  high  nominally,  abi>ut 
two  francs — 1#.  S/.  a  day — say  10»,  a  week,  what  with  the 
journey  to  and  from  wrorlc,  ami  o  two  hour«*  "  siesta"  in  the 
middle  of  the  day — the  eiiNtom  of  the  country — only  6vo 
or  six  hours'  lazy  work  is  u;ot  out  of  a  lahourer.  'iliin,  I 
was  told,  makes  all  a^ciilturat  operations  ruinously  ex> 
j>en»ivv. 

Then  the  children,  hronght  up  in  towns,  without  milk, 
if  the  dehililated  mother  cannot  give  it,  die  like  6ies  in 
oiilumn  ;  I  was  told  that  not  two  out  of  ten  are  reared. 
Two  years  ago  there  was  an  epidemic  of  diphlluiia  in 
Catiliiiri,  and  SOU  of  these  half-fed  or  hadly-fed  ehildreo 
dill]  of  the  dtaoaae  in  a  population  of  SO.OOD.  In  August 
l^ith,  tliere  was  cholera  in  SuNtari,  which  then  had  a  pupc 
latioD  of  £2,000,  and  one-third,  or  about  70O0,  died 


* 


8AS8ARI — OSILia 


46fi 


Stich  is  tlic  reniilt  of  cooping  up  an  agriciilttirnl  pojnila* 
tion  in  towiii*  untl  liir|re  viUugeH,  without  milk-praducinff 
auimftlit  for  tlie  diiliiren  lo  leed  on.  Duriii^  tfiL-  lirKt 
year  of  a  cliiUl's  lite  ite  very  uxictc^ncc  tle|iL-iids  on  iu 
obtuiiiiti}*  milk  from  «ome  Nourcc  or  other.  Thus  is  partly 
«xi>liiiiK-ii,  iiU»,  the  depressed  flt-jte  of  at^ciilture  Mid  the 
fallinjg>ofruf'  the  population  ofSttidiDiii,  vvory where  observed 
and  Inmrntcd. 

On  April  £i,  on  ii  tit^antifVil  cWr,  Bunnr,  hot  cool  day, 
I  maiie  nu  excuraion  iVoni  Sassari,  itself  elevated  lJ50 
feet  above  th«  ses,  to  O^ilio,  a  email  town  1200  tWt 
high,  uliotit  ten  milot  <liatant.  In  the  imrnediatc  vicinity 
of  the  town  we  pnsMd  tlirou^h  ii  wood  of  lurije  Olive 
trce«,  whicli  are  geiienlly  t'otmd  on  the  aidea  of  limcstono 
bills,  on  risinic  grround,  and  disappear  when  the  soil 
beeomi'K  {^ranitiG  or  bnsaltiu.  Aloni;  with  thom  wef*! 
AlmoiKl  nixl  IVach  tn-vn  in  full  ieuf,  fruit  lar^e,  ten  duys 
or  more  in  advance  of  I'list-any ;  Broad  Beans  ripening, 
Pciir  trves  in  fnll  Hotver  and  hraf,  uor»  throe  indie§  hi);h, 
Corn  Poi>pic«,  tiarlie,  Dandelion,  lunall  Euphurliius  in 
llower.  Max  in  flower,  Huu;losa,  Fellitory,  a  small  Marigold, 
a  small  red  Geranium  which  in  plaoee  covered  the  (>round, 
OroundMl,  I'laiitain,  Oxalii^,  Miuitnrd  in  (lower,  Mulluws, 
Ivy  (vigorous,  covcrint;  HulU),the  large  vnriepitod  vuiilhem 
ThiKtle,  CliryMintheninm  !<eg«tum  (very  abundant),  Itlutk- 
berry  (vigorous),  and  large  hedges  of  Opautia  or  the  Prickly 
Pear. 

As  we  progneeed  wo  got  out  of  the  lime  coil  into  biimlt, 
and  ttio  vegetation  chunt^i'd.  The  Ivy,  Olivctt,  and  frint 
trees  tliaappearei),  and  were  replaced  by  the  Stone  I'tne, 
the  Mnritime  Pine,  Asphodel,  Ferula,  Pleris  aqiiilinn, 
Oiiks  without  leaves:  Elms,  fSr^t  leaves  only  Blinwingi 
Gate  in  Dower  undrr  ciiltivutiou.  On  ttii'  wljole  without 
mountain  protection,  exposed  to  north  winds,  the  ground 
Yc^Mlion  appeared  to  m»  about  ten  days  in  advance  of 
Spvxzia,  owing  to  the  greater  power  of  Uie  ann  in  a  locality 
two  degrecM  more  Mouth. 

Every  year,  in  whatever  region  of  the  Mediterranean 
I  happen  to  he,  1  notice  the  rcmarkuhle  lad  that  the 
surface  vegetation  is  mnoh  in  ndvunou  aa  compared  with 

a  u 


46G 


aABDINU. 


I 


4 


the  tree  v^gciation — lliat  of  the  dwpcr  »oil.     TIiim  flow? 
u*  oIlAti  itix  w«'i-Uit,  or  fvcD  two  month*,  in  adrnni-o  of  out 
ovrti   oountn',  whilst  tre««   are  selilom  more   than   tbrc*' 
weeks,  and  l^at  qaite  in  ttie  Sooth  Medit«mDean  r^mw.j 
The  ex|)lanatioit   is  no   dotilit   that  id   tar\y  apnni;   tli«] 
powrr  or  the  (iin,  miwh  greater  in  tl»e  aoutli  than  in  thol 
oorth,  warmti  the  surface  of  the  wil  so  a*  tu  itiduce  nipiiLl 
BiirHi^  ve);etatioD,  long  beror«  the  J«i-]>i-r  soil,  where  the 
roots  of  Itcvs  lie,  can  bv  wnnncii  eiiou^i  U>  start  thcai  iulo 
life  and  {rrowtli, 

1'h«  tree  vegetation  showed  no  difTert-noe  as  compared 
with  the  tnainlaDd  one  or  two  de(tre««  more  north  ;  and  1  did 
not  "M  n  trace  of  Oran^  or  Lemon  trvc«.     Thi'  suntmer 
brat  at   Saaoari   is   olvnrly   more  than  enmigh   for  lh«ir 
wi-irare,  as  shown  bv  the  hixurianee  of  the  0]>unlta  ttr ' 
prickly  Pear  hodges,  but  owiii)*  to  tho  want  of  mountain 
protection  from  east  to  WL-st,  t')  cut  otF  th«  north  winds, 
tlie   winter  cold  prnvi.'*  too  much   for  thvm.     Them  la  a 
ahvltCTvd  valley  behind  the  town,  in  wbi>:h  the  Oliru  tnot 
ore  very  large,  and  in  which  Orsa^^  treiit  ^row  to  a  ref peet-  ^^ 
able  8iz«,  and  ripen  their  fniit.     In  tliis  latittide  they  will^f 
do  so  anjrwfaare,  if  protecte<l  from  the  north  wind.     Tho       j 
Sassari  people,  bnwttrcr,  did  not  a]>pi'ar  U>  n-ly  on  their  owo 
orungea:  all  on  vale  were  a(at»l  to  come  front  Milia,  near 
Oristano,  one  hundred  milw  south>wcst. 

The  jinblio  gnrdcn  at  Saesari  is  very  bndly  kept,  full  of 
wwd*.  I  went  over  it  carefully,  but  found  no  evidence  of 
exee]itioiial  winter  mildnees  of  temperature ;  rather  tbe 
reverse.  There  were  Elm  and  Rohinia  Pseud-Acaoia  just 
cotnint;  into  Wf,  I^unixtinns  still  in  Rower,  also  Jndns  trro 
and  Lilac  i  Jusminum  revohitiim  not  in  flouer,  hybrid 
BoMt  only  just  beginning  to  form  buds,  a  few  white  Uvngal 
Bomb  in  a  sheltered  spot.  Pinks  not  in  tlower;  Itroom  and 
ftnrdeD  Poppies  tJie  same.  The  only  flowers  were  ^ingle 
Stocks,  Iri«,  Medioago,  WalUfioweta.  In  my  garden  at 
Mentone  on  April  1 0  (twelve  days  before),  all  mentioned  in 
the  above  list  as  in  flower,  were  goini;  out  of  flower,  and  all 
mentioneil  as  not  in  flower,  werv  in  flower,  iind  yet  Saseari 
ia  ;iUU  miles  more  south.  Itut  then  my  g:inlen  is  protected 
in  winter  from  n<Hrth  winds  by  monntains  mnning  east  and 


SASSA'BI  TO  ORTfiTAXO. 


467 


^vo«t,  BTitl  StiKwiri  iH  not.     In  LiliN  pnMic  gxnlftn  th«rc  wer 
t«'u  iiiiiii-ralili!  Fulniii,  with  a  few  terminal  leaves  only, 
wliicb  my  cicerone,  a  nativo  trcntlcman,  poinUtl  with  piidfli 
they  were  miTcly  slnijjgliiig  i'nr  (.'xinti-noc.     On  tlie  othen 
hand  the  Alues  and  Yuccas  were  very  IWic — intlicatiit}^,  as 
did  th«  Opuntia  hedKcs,  intense  summer  lieat. 

From  i^aseari,  in  the  north  of  Sardinia,  to  Caglinri  in 
the  eouth,  a  ror}-  good  road  lias  bec^n  recently  madi;  hy  th* 
Qoverument^  at  an  expensu  of  1'j7,0OO/.  In  two  years  th< 
two  capitals  of  Sanlinia  will  be  connected  by  a  railroodi^ 
now  in  courac  of  conEtriiction.  At  pre^nt  tbo  lino  i«  onlj 
finished  and  Ojicacd  from  CH<rliiiri  to  Orintitno  in  the  soutli- 
wcutt,  and  firom  Cagliari  to  Iu;1eaiiis.  Fitly  milca  mitro,  due 
eouth  from  Sasenri,  are  to  be  opened  this  summer.  'I'tifl 
communication  is  at  present  kept  up  by  a  small  dili^-eDce, 
which  Ivuvvs  Siuumri  ut  6  r.M.,  and  n.-jiche«  OrifiUino  at  i  r.u. 
the  next  day — a  very  fiiti(»ning  journey.  I  adopted  it, 
bowovor,  instetid  of  takint;  a  carriage  and  •itopnin;;  on  tlie 
way,  much  to  my  rc^-^ret,  as  tlic  road  was  said  not  to  In, 
quite  Mfu.  In  proof  of  which  we  had  two  mounted  curabiJ 
nvvn  in  front  of  as  all  night,  riding  gravely  in  the  moon- 
lijfht.  The  sight  of  these  troopers  «vory  time  wc  Inoked 
out  of  tlio  cotip^  window  gave  us  a  delightful  sense 
inaceiirity,  bringing,  as  it  did  to  our  recollection,  nil  thi 
t>t»ri«s  of  brigands  ever  read.  At  Snssari  I  was  told  tha^ 
thL'ie  was  really  no  danger,  but  that  this  prccaiitioD 
wns  ttiken  merely  l>eea»M  some  montlm  before  a  fxun  of 
gold  sent  by  the  diligence  had  been  wuylaid  and  aeiu-d.  It 
ap]>ear8,  also,  that  the  Sardinian  brigands  have  not  as  yet 
attained  the  degree  of  rolincmvnt  and  mental  cnltivation 
which  lends  their  Italian  brethn^n  t<>  wagi;  war  on  souicly 
as  potentates,  making  pnsonent  and  asking  ransom !  I 
was  informed  that,  U  by  any  evil  chance,  anywhere  in 
Sardinia,  wc  did  fall  tipon  bri<^uiidK,  we  were  not  to  resist, 
but  to  meekly  submit  and  to  giv«  t^cm  what  we  had  on  us, 
with  which  they  would  be  compUtfily  satisfied. 

The  warlike,  fighting  traditions  of  tbo  past  appe^tr  to 
have  a  grvflter  hold  over  the  popular  mtnd  and  hubita 
in  the  north  of  Sardinia  than  in  toe  south.  In  the  north 
Dearly  all  the  gentlemen  and  peasants  we  met  out  of  Saesui 


4(t3  fiABDCOA. 

hvl  A  loAiItil  ^n  flnng  over  tbcir  sboitldtr,  or  In  tlicir 
bitBd*,  whether  riUing  or  WBlkitij;;  bk  if  every  mnn  still 
bmtmI  alxKit  with  his  life  in  bis  hands,  ready  to  dcfcml  it 
o^aimt  his  DciKlilftiur.  This  custom,  oooibiDM)  nitb  the 
vfT)-pMatuircoe^tum«or  the  pcoMiito,  Kiv«caiii.-xcii>tiona]ly 
d«&uil  wurliki;  IkkJc  to  thf  omntrj-.  In  the  mora  soittborn 
regtoDs,  Kt  OrotKtw)  and  Cftx'i*n>  DothiDgof  tb«  kind 


or 


to  Im  seen,  the  entire  popalatioa  n-as  ananned.     PerhApi^f 
the  eiietetKv  of  the  ratiraM  aod  the  firecdom  of  intercotmo' 
it  haf  <¥tahhfli«d  KCoounts  for  the  dilTervnoe. 

As  1  have  slated  the  costume  of  the  peasants  it  pociiliar, 
that  of  the  men  rntber  sumbre  bat    picturesque,   lliiit   nf 
the  womcit  hf«  to.     In  the  towns  the  men  dnss  as  on  the 
conlineat,  but  in  th<!  oountry  thcjr  preKrre  the  naliouiU 
costume.     It  varit^  io  ditrerent  lofulitiev,  but  luny  be  suid 
geDerally  to  consist  in  a  double-breasted  leather  or  cloth 
vnii^tcoiit  buttoned  up  to  the  throat,  a  kind   of  btnck  kilt 
dcsc('ndiii|;  to  the  knee  over  loose  linen  or  iroollt-n  drawers, 
aiiil  Iralhcr  h^i;in^;  ibe  hair  is  worn  toiij'  nn>l  loose,  or 
^uiht'red  up  in  a  net.     The  women  indulge  more  in  ooloi 
Ovfr  their  bead  on  gal.-i  days  they    wear  a  yellow    cloi 
with  red  border,  or  collect  tbcir  hair  in  a  net  like  the  inei 
Some  wear  scarlet  »tocki»gs  and  oniamFotrd   bodices 
cmbroitlcr^-d   jackrtd   thruwn   over   a    low   corset.      The 
petticoat  is  luaile  full  with  sm^U  plaits,  and   the  iilecvw 
are  divided  iu  the  Gr«-ek  fashion. 

The  coarse  bWk  cloth  witli  which  the  mcnV  clothes  are 
principally  made,  ia  woven  at  home  from  sheep'*  m<h>).     In 
the  vi1la;;es  the  houses  are  all  of  one  story,  even  tlnise   of 
the  lietlir  clossM,  and  tbey  are  gienerslly  built  or  atuDv,     I 
went  over  several  boosea  at  Osilio  with  my  friend  I'rvfessor 
Crispu,  a  native  of  the  district,  inb«bit«it  by  his   n-latiTi 
and  det<en(lent8,  and  noticed  the  evidence  ofa   |irimiti 
style  of  life.     Evidently  most  of  the  inhabitants  of  Osilii 
Mtcb   at  U-ust  as  wiTe  ownen   of   hind  and   »ittle,  Wi 
all  but  iiiduiiendeut  of  the  outer  world.     Inane  coirncr 
tlieir  lialiitation   was   an   old-fashioned   hand   Imim   n-iili 
which  ihey  wove   ihctr  cloth.     In   another  corner   was   a 
heap  of  corn  or  raaixe,  enclosed  in   immense  liHskvts,  or 
ereeiis  of4natte<l  cane,  the  year's  "  bread  supply."     What 


oor 

I 


31ACOMER— NVR-nAOS. 


469 


witb  win^  oil,  oorOj  Sgs  and  fruit  to  ent,  woollen  cloth  of 
thciron-n  inakin|{,and  multon  of  their  own  Imliiiu:,  llicy 
were  really  all  bnt  ind«[>ondent  ol  ihc  mitcr  world ;  and 
this  no  doiilit  is  the  aocial  state  of  the  niouiitiiiii  jtoasants 
throng  ho  lit  Snrdinia. 

Fur  the  first  acventy  miles  of  the  road  from  Saasari  to 
Oriatano  we  were  on  Int^h  schislic  ptnine,  eurrounded  by  ■ 
stunted  vc)*t-tiilion  consixtciit  with  siiinh  a  soil  und  vicvation, 
AH|)hnd<.d,  Pttrula,  Pt«rLa  aqiiiliiia  a  foot  high,  Cork  iind 
Ilex  treesi,  LeottHcua,  Cjtisus,  Cistiw  the  vtck  lii>i»,  not 
in  tlower,  prickly  Brontn,  Miin-thoni,  (u  in  En<;land  in  full 
flower,  lllnckliorry,  McdilormiicJin  Mratli,  Arlititiie.  All 
tbene  pUnts  constitutit  tlie  bi-uutiful  tHaqu'm  of  Coreicn,  hut 
they  were  growing  here  sparBi-ly,  never  i>re.icnting  tliu 
luxuriant  growth  of  that  istniid.  Here  and  thore  were 
luitohea  of  corn,  Oats,  Flux,  with  a  fow  t'niit  tn-cs — OUvl', 
Pair,  Pi>;< — neur  two  or  three  large  villii^  whiuh  we 
paeaedand  where  we  ohangod  hones. 

lite  road  then  ascends  (o  a  hei^rht  of  2H5  feet,  reachiiiji 
the  plain  of  CumpmliiH  which  fwiianilee  tliu  trittorHow  of 
llie  iKlund.  On  the  north  nido  of  thin  [iliiin  water  lluw:) 
iKjrt)),  to  the  Uulf  of  A^inara,  whiUt  on  tlw  ttitulh  Hide  it 
flows  south,  to  the  river  Tirse.  On  the  south  toar;;iD  of 
tbi«  plain  wo  find  the  villa^  of  Maconier,  tW\\i  iiihiibt- 
tiintK,  where  the  roud  l)eginK  to  dcKcend.  In  the  vicinily 
of  ^laciiiitiT  we  Huw,  near  the  road,  several  of  the aepntuhrul 
monuoienlA  called  nur-iagt,  for  whiuh  Sardinia  is  ocle* 
bruted.  They  are  supposed  to  be  sepiitehrnl  niontiiuents 
built  by  the  I'hicnicinnK,  and  although  they  are  coiintnntly 
being  tlcfttmyful  for  building  materialit  they  are  still  very 
numerous;  more  than  thivc  thousiind  Rtill  exiat.  'rbojt 
are  hnill  of  unwrou^hl  aloues  of  colossal  dimensia 
arniiii^d  hurizonlally,  present  chanibL-rs  internally,  a  smul 
low  opening  exlcrnaily,  and  arc  from  thirty  to  »iixty  feet 
biti;h,  and  from  thirty-Uve  to  a  hundred  feet  in  diameter 
at  the  ba«e.  They  are  assimilated  by  anticjuarieii  (o  tbe 
aucienl  towers  of  Orkney  and  Shetland,  nnd  to  the  round 
towero  of  Ireland,  und  arc  only  m>:i  with  in  Sardinia  and 
the  l)ah»irie  iMlandi*. 

Urailually  a  plain  ia  reached  nearly  on  the  level  of  Uio 


'470 


SARDrau. 


an,  at  Brat  diy,  thcti  matvliy,  and  aflor  I  'i  mileii  we  txmh 
to  Orbtano.  Fonnedy  a  town  of  considembk  imporUuc«, 
it  U  now  decayed— owing  principally  to  extrtme  un- 
liciiHIiincjw,  from  its  bt.-int>  Kurraundud  by  solt  water  vr 
by  li[iiL'l(i«h  pcmditnnd  niandiea. 

'the  soil  of  this  marshy  alluvial  plain  ta  pood,  and  a  con- 
siJcrnbie  porliou  of  it  is  ciiUivutud  nit^  corn,  Uvaiis, 
uiid  Flux,  or  pni-tiirt.-d.  I  was  told  lliut  tli«  icnttind  in 
Sardiiiiii  in  nuvcr  uiaiiiirt'd  iil  all,  but  tliat  in  thin  region 
ite  uiiturul  I'l-rtiUty  in  such  that  it  beara  every  year,  or  that 
one  yeur'§  fallow  every  three  is  Euffiuient  to  t-nnble  it  to 
bear  iiltiindnntly — one  ywir  corn,  tlic  next  llcutu,  Peas, 
Vetcbca,  or  V\ax.  The  most  interi-stin^  feature  in  tbi« 
plain   is  the   sin^tuUrly   luxuriant  hedges  of  Upuotia  or 

Sickly  Peiir,  which  rimitid  us  of  what  we  read  of  in 
exieo,  and  give  u  pL'ciiliarly  noullivro  chnrocter  to  Iho 
luodscape.  The  mails,  lanea,  and  properties  are  linm)  with 
b«dges  of  ihtK  Opuiitia,  from  ei^ht  to  liiteen  feet  liit;h,  and 
from  six  to  ten  feet  wide,  lliey  thus  present  an  impene- 
trable fence  to  cattle  and  man,  and  give  a  very  tiopicol 
look  to  the  eonntry.  hixide  the*e  groU-sijiie  prickly  Ivhcm 
grow  many  wild  plants,  eapecially  a  Clematis  und  our  old 
friend  the  HIacklwrry,  who,  flourishing  in  the  alluvial  (toil, 
more  than  holds  bis  own.  fie  entwine*  himnelf  betWF«n 
thi- prickly  brancheniti  every  dirt^tion,  and  at  times  socms 
to  ail  but  smother  bis  southern  friend. 

Otherwise  there  is  no  traee  near  Oristauo  of  subtropicul 
winter  ve<;etation,  and  (iprinjr  was  no  moi-e  advanced  on 
April  2(iih  than  at  SaMaii  on  the  2£nd.  Evidently  the 
cold  winds  runb  down  from  the  north  in  winter  over  Uie 
high  pliiins  and  lower  it«  temperature — like  that  of  Saanri 
•^below  that  of  tlic  Genoece  Itivicrn,  or  of  the  mountain- 
ehetlered  cost  const  of  Spain. 

The  town  of  Orixt^tno  hcginun  few  hundred  yurtU  beyond 
a  brid<;e  wbicb  crossi'9  a  good  sixed  river,  the  TirM.-,  the 
largest  I  raw  in  Surdinia,  and  the  origin  of  iho  lauoona 
aBamarsbcs,  which  render  Oristano  so  unhi-althy.  in  ila 
stni^K>  to  reach  the  aca,  to  jjet  over  or  rouml  the  bar 
which  the  winter  storms  form  at  itn  mouth,  it  ovettlowa 
tJie«atirecouutry,andfurn)6  ponds  and  lakes  nc^r  the  shorv. 


ORISTANCP — THK  KtLtS  ORANGE  GROVES.      471 


The  town  is  forme'l  by  a  number  of  streeU  g'^upe'I  round 
thcoldcathcOral — a  ri-ally  line  monuniL-ntiil  fdilii'o.  In  llio 
immetliMte  vicinity  uf  tlii'  t-Jitlifilnil  iiivn  un  somu  iji^iod 
houses  inbabiteJ  by  gioiiic  of  llid  utd  SunJiuiau  uobiltLy  uiid 
gentry  during  the  winter  and  sprint^.  In  summer  nai 
■utumn  all  who  can,  Hy  from  the  muUria  mid  spvud  ihcao 
waionK  in  tbc  higher  muuutuin  ri-t;toUB,  in  ii  wry  ixiuirb 
tnanner.  Oristano,  howeriu-,  appears  to  be  riHiu};  in  pros- 
perity, for  tlietv  were  eoveral  new  streets,  and  new  Iiuumm 
all  xiniill.  Th«  railroad,  no  doubt,  has  liad  a  deal  to  do 
with  itiit  cban'^c.  In  luriner  days  it  was  a  large,  papulous, 
wealthy,  and  important  city  ;  probably  the  aurruuiiiling 
country  was  thon  bett«r  drained,  aud  llie  exit  of  the  rivor 
into  the  sea  more  cared  for. 

Thffire  was  wine  (dte  when  nu  arrived,  and  tlie  only 
"Alber)fo"  wiH  already  lull.  But  wc  Imd,  Ibrlunately,  n 
letter  of  iiitruduc-tiun  t'l  the  Mayor  of  Ibe  town,  u  very 
amtjible  old  retired  Sardinian  Colonel.  lie  kindly  took 
UK  under  bis  win-",  and  Kreurod  lis  rooma  over  a  cot^ 
juat  o]<pOHite  the  Opera,  fur  the  Urii>4«nian«  Ituvv  just  built 
and  opened  a  very  pretty  little  opera-liuuse,  with  a  very 
tderwle  Company  !  They  wore  purformin^ all  '.lie  leading 
Opimis  of  (Jie  day,  very  renptcUilily  it  was  eaid.  At 
Sumri,  the  Prima  Donna,  whom  1  wont  to  h&ir.  was 
a  young  ICn^tiiil)  Udy,  with  a  really  good  and  fine  voiee, 
and  all  tlie  (Jity  was  most  entliusiaatio  about  her.  Thi-se 
remote  Italian  towns  must  be  very  ^od  eulio<>lsfor  aaenthu- 
ajastic  votary  of  ibu  art,  such  wtthis  young  huly  olenrly 
allowed  buTwIf.  In  the  «mnll<«t  she  is  certain  to  meet  with 
a  sympathctio,  muaioally-eulttrated  audience. 

AllUonijh  there  was  no  evidence  of  winter  warmth  at,  or 
immediulely  around,  Oristaim,  an  escnrston  to  tbc  Oninirc 
gr»veH  of  .Miliit  showed  me  llnit  all  that  wbh  wanting  wna 
proteutiun  lri>ni  the  north.  Milis  w  situated  ut  the  foot  of 
a  mountain  s|>ur,  running  east  and  west,  aWut  twelve  miles 
norlh-WL-«t  of  Oristauo,  and  looks  due  south. 

This  Ornnge  wood  or  orohatd,  two  mtlca  in  Ir-ngtli  by 
half  a  mile  iu  widlli,  has  been  volobratod  for  »^tt,  and 
•upplies  ail  Sardinia  with  OratiKes.  It  belong  priii«i|wlly 
to  tJie  Marquia  of  fioylo,  a  Sardinian  nobleman.     A  never- 


473 


SARDINIA. 


railing  rivTilot  of  mountain  water  rans  tlironsh,  and  < 
the  cultivators  to  put  tbv  entirv  orchitrd  under  water  every 
fortDi^ht  durinj?  tliu  eumnH-T,  If  nn  Orntt*^  trre  ts  lo 
proiluL-e  f*WHl  fruit  it  uiunl  lie  urut«rc<l  tliorougfaly  dtiriog 
Buninwr  nt  least  twice  a  month.  Thus  these  trew  oarc  1h« 
ulUimiKirtaiit  dicltcr  from  the  north  in  winter,  water  »id 
intense  heat  in  euinmer. 

1  spent  a  il«>-  in  Urn  Orange  grro»,  nod  fixjunined  i^M 
very  careful!]'.     'Hie  Uet»  »rv  plant«d  very  neur  to  <-iuM^^ 
other,  only  eight  or  ten  feet  from  Bl«in  to  stem  ;  they  ore 
noBtly  old  trees,  a  hundred  years  or  more,  jutlj^ng  fi 
the  dianH-ter  of  the  bole  low  down— one,  two,  and   evi 
three  feet.     Tliey  are  not  beautiful   trees   like   thoeu 
Milianah  in  Algeria,  for  they  are   generally  allowed   to 
divide  into  two  or  throe  branches,  two  or  ihreu  feet  fi 
th«  ground.   Tlit'c  lurge  branches  run  «[>  fiftt-f  n  to  twen 
feet,  and  form  n  canopy  uf  frtiit-hcaring  branctilet^),  wh» 
unilv  with  IhoM  of    the  anrrooDdinc:   treMt,  and  form 
complete  shade  on  the  ground  ;  indeed  mo66  was  growing 
on  it  in  many  plaoee. 

The  impression  on  the  beholder  is,  that  tJtc  treex  arc  too 
numcroiiii ;  but  I  wan  ttihl  Ihul  the  ex)icrience  of  eenturii 
biia  proved  that  this  ia  the  beist  plan  to  grow  them, 
order  to  keep  the  ground  coot  and  moist  during  the  lierev 
glare  of  the  summer's  sun.  No  mntiure  is  ever  given,  only 
water ;  the  aotl  is  a  deep  alluvial  one,  and  the  nituataun  is 
ten  miles  fitim  the  »ea.  'I'be  Itead  cultivator  told  me  that 
the  Orangu  trees  taised  from  seed  were  peculiarly  liable  to 
die.  jiiiit  UK  they  had  b.-Ciime  good  bailing  trees,  of  a 
diiiease  be  ealled  «^cw.  The  fmiill  branehi-«  at  firnt,  and 
then  the  larger  ones,  dry  u|i  and  wither,  and  in  a  few  years 
the  entire  tree  dies.  IJe  ehowcd  nie  among  Doom  of  trees 
intermingled  those  that  were  dying  without  the  trace  of 
gralting,  wliervas  thoxc  that  bore  the  trace  of  the  graft 
near  them  were  itouiid  and  heallliy.  Nov,  he  aaid,  lio 
never  planted  other  than  graHeil  trees.  I  ate  a  number  uf 
the  Oran;{C6  gathered  here,  and  found  them  very  good. 
The  Uronge  tree  i«  a  tropienl  tree,  and  tinds  here 
Summer  Uie  tropical  heat  Lhut  suits  its  coiistilntion,  wb 


ORISTAKO  TO  lOLEStAa 


478 


mountaina  behiDd  s1ic?1ter  it  from  the  north  n-ind*, 
wliicU  pri!vvnt  its  i^rowin^  in  mosl  region*  of  Swr> 
dinia.  In  tin-  vt-ry  miilitt  of  this  Orange  grove  I  found  a^ 
few  Lemon  trees  in  lull  bearing ;  they  were  the  only 
Lemon  trees  I  saw  Jn  Snrdioiu.  On  the  Riviurn,  from 
Nice  l«  St.  Rvmo,  they  are,  n»  wo  hove  seen,  the  priuci{ial 
a^cult'iral  p  rod  net. 

OhetaDo  exhausted,  we  took  the  rnilvray  to  Ii^lesiafi,  a 
town    in  the  eouth-weeterD   extremity  of  the  ifilimd,  the 

firincipii)  oeotre  of  tho  mining  int<.TOHtii.   Iglcitiiui  i«  ri.<!nohi>J 
ly  a  branch,  irhich  leaves  the  main  line  l-etwoen  Oriittauo 
and  Cagliari,  at  about  an  hour'^  distance  from  the  btter 
city.     Tlina  we  descended,  along  the  level  marshy  i>liiin, 
which  Rcpiiriilcs  the  tvo  cities,  to  within  twenty  mile*  of 
Cajfliari,  and  then  lenvini;  it,  n«ccn(Iuil  into  tho  mountain 
region.     The  muin  line  riinti  ni-urly  ut  a  dttad  level,  ap- 
pamitly  only  a  f«w  feel  ahuve  the  sea,  and  tho  watershed 
of  the  nioimtains  on  each  side  falliug  into  this  phiin,  with* 
ont   being   able   to   find  an  exit,  i^ivcsi  riite  to  extcnsivfl 
nanhcs.    Ko  doubt  within  compaTatively  recent  jieulogical 
times   this  plain   was  below  the  eea-lercl,  and   then  tho 
south- wc«tern  part  of  Snnlinia  must  haw  been  an  iitland. 
Notwithstanding  the  mamhy,  unbejdthy  chariM-tcr  of  the 
plain,  it  was  evidently  a  propi-rty  owm-d  by  iu>me  one,  an4i 
vigonnis  attempts  at  cultivation  were  Iwiotf  made  wherever ' 
the  sligbt«at  elovatjon  appeared  to  make  draioaife  feasible. 
There  were  aluo,  Ihtc  and  there,  <lrovei'  of  ponies  and  of 
other  cattle.    The  malarioini  neaxon   ha<!  not  yet  arrived! 
(April  25th],  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  spurae  villa^a  had] 
not  yet  relrciitwl  to  the  mountains.     Croxvds  of  picturvsquu  1 
peofile  got  in  and  out  at  every  station,  and  ap|M;ufcd  much 
to  eiijoy  the  i>1tll  novel  mode  of  loccinolion. 

Scion  after  leaving  the  main  line  a  gentle  rise  commenoee, 
pondx  and  manthes  cease  to  show  tbemaelvee  on  each  side, 
and  dry  land  apponrs.  Simultaneonaly  villaf^  are  seen,  and  J 
around  them  the  Southern  eridvncoa  of  fertility  in  the , 
»hiipu  of  Olive,  Alm»ml,  I'vaeh,  and  I'ear  trees,  of  Vinea 
mid  of  een<nl  cultivation.  The  natives  were  iiivnriiibly 
■llrensud  ill  alievjukin  vests,  with  the  national  black  woullva 


vr4 


SAttDKUL. 


petticoat,  or  skirt,  xsd  kggin^.    They  were   tnit 
cluthnl  fur  cold  uot  for  w^rm  weathiT,  and  in  woollen  ^r- 
mratfl  calcabtcd  to  protect  them  from  t^iils. 

The  gradaally  tocivuiog  eitent  of  cuUiration  showed 
that  we  w«re  approaching  a  OMitre  of  dviliKatioo  aiul 
ptoaperity,  a  fact  which  tKVame  evident  when  n-v  rva«tt«d 
Iglcmfl.  This  little  town,  ntuatrd  on  llii-  soath-vaNtcm 
dope  ofa  moantatn  spur  five  hundred  foct  abore  th«  sea- 
lew),  is  the  cn|Mtal  of  the  niining  works  of  this  part  of 
Sardinia.  The  district  is  rich  in  niiD«raU,  prinuipulT 
carbonate  of  ane  or  calamine,  and  lead  contaiuing  vtlre 
liV^icbin  Uic  Urt  ten  ycara  iwortte  of  rDiitca  have  btwn  opeoml 
by  Italian,  Frvorh,  and  Kagli«h  companies,  in  this  lh| 
•outh-westem  angle  of  Sardinia,  comprised  betwwn  ^^^ 
tano,  lgli-sia«,  Ca^liari  and  the  eca,  the  ridkcst  piiiK'raT 
n^ioti  «r  Uie  iclaitd,  whiUt  mnny  taan  have  been  c«a- 
ceded  and  »il]  auoD  tie  D|wn(?d.  Svveral  of  these  oompaiiiM 
employ  from  five  to  twelve  haudred  workmen,  and  an 
making  very  good  returns.  The  zine  and  lead  liv  ^vneraUy 
at  the  point  of  contact  of  a  calcnreous  rock  which  overlies 
the  uluriai)  xclmts  of  whit-h  tho  moiintaiiut  are  formed. 
That,  in  mont  instanoea,  the  mineral  is  easily  reached, 
merely  bv  driving  galleries  in  the  Hanks  of  the  iDountaiu. 
Tlie  ancient  Koinane  were  aware  of  the  mineral  richa*  of 
this  port  of  8]irJiiiiu,  iind  tiacoe  of  their  workings  aie  found 
in  muny  localititv  boUi  in  thin  and  in  other  {lArts  oflbt 
island.  The  zinc  and  lead  dq>o«its  are  not  confined  to  tlie 
Igltvias  rvi^ion,  thoy  are  found  in  nearly  all  the  mountains. 
'liiere  are  many  mines  now  at  work  in  the  aoitbera  and 
western  ranges. 

As  the  entire  mining  population  ceDtree  at Iglesias, from 
whrnov  all  their  wanto  are  supplied,  and  from  whence  the 
new  road*  made  and  makinj^  depnrt,  Urge  euinN  of  moni,-y 
are  |Kiured  into  it,  and  on  every  side  there  \*  the  evidence 
of  material  prosperity  and  well  doing,  numerous  shops  and 
new  houEva,  and  a  well  fed  and  healthy  jwpiilation.  I{<* 
aiai*  IK  all  but  out  of  roach  of  maluria,  and  moreover 
were  jnstat  the  end  of  winter,  uv-idenlJy  bracing  enough ; 
Dold  enough  to  bring  rcncs  tu  the  chceka  of  tiie  ehilJran 
and  of  the  women.    There  was  a  freedom  and  ease  about  I 


IGLESIA9— FBIENDS — THE  3UN1U. 


475 


ti 


whidt  argued  iMiutant  cotnmunioD  willi  the  world. 
In  the  uortl)«i-n  vi1Up;p«  and  tiniill  Uiuti*  th«f  whiik'ii  w>n- 
KtHiitly  ilruw  ihcir  vfiU  ovtt  tlie  lower  jiart  ol'  llicir  face, 
conofitlii)^  llidr  nioulh  as  in  the  East.  Here  notliii))!  of 
Ihe  kind  was  seen;  they  walkvd  alwut  wiUi  m  lillls 
ehynesii,  and  will)  a^  miK.-li  iieir-)ii>M<i:«iiion  aa  the  tnttn. 

Wu  Ifiuiicl  ti  U>leral>ly  di-ceiit  inn  uf  the  usual  luiliaa 
kind,  hut  I  had  hrought  a  letter  of  introductiun  Irom  a 
mutual  iVicnd  to  an  English  •■ciitk^man.  tliv  hi-iiil  of  Kcvvnil 
of  thf  ntiniv,  find  h<;  Itiiidty  insii.ilud  on  oni'  litkiit:;  n;>  our 
<luurt<-n  iviLh  him.  Oiwe  tn«tull«(l  in  his  hoBpitubiv  houi-e 
we  w«re  xa  oumlortable  as  we  shoulil  huve  heen  in  our  own 
home,  and  greatly  enjoyed  tJio  ciiansu.  My  new  friend 
had  beeu  apprised  of  our  ndvcnl,  and  hiul  organirod  an 
exprditian  into  the  moumains,  to  vinil  the  niinn  under  Itw. 
luanaf^emenl,  to  which  vro  utisented  with  joy.  Aa  there' 
are  no  road«,  only  horse  truck*,  and  a«  Ixit  ck-anty  «u)>p1ies 
lire  to  he  found  nl  the  end  of  vueh  iluy'H  mni'i:li,  dtie 
preparatiun  luid  to  be  made.  \VhiUt  my  kind  liu*t  whs 
thus  preparing  for  our  comfort  I  employed  the  inUirvul  in 
exploring  tho  town  and  iui  vicinity. 

IgWiuR  mtiKt  have  hec-n  a  place  of  oomc  little  importance 
in  former  days,  oommandin;;  the  plains  on  the  one  hand, 
and  the  mountain  region,  of  whieh  it  was  the  key,  on  the 
otlicr.  Thero  iirc  i>till  extant  the  luiitH  of  a  large  and 
powerful  forlrMK  huilt  on  the  most  elevated  |>oint,  which 
overlooked  the  triwii  and  it^  approaches,  formerly  liiere 
were  no  made  whatever  into  the  mountains,  merely  liorra 
track)-,  now  miiny  good  onc«  have  been  made,  or  are  being 
mmle  hy  the  eiim|uini<.it  that  are  working;  the  minen,  and  by 
olhi-r  eompauict  that  have  bought  forent",  and  all  radiate 
from  Ii;le?ias. 

Tlic  immediate  vicinity  is  very  fro^h,  green,  and  frililr, 

Iinwenling  many  orcharda  of  fruit  tiwi — Oliver,  Aliiioudi, 
'each.  Pear,  and  Vine*,  and  a  few  »mnll  Orangu  tree^i  in 
sheltered  iiooka.  There  are  many  pretty  o<>untry  walks  in 
the  viuintty.  rendered  very  .qiuiinl  and  foreign  hy  tlut 
hedge*  n(  Prickly  I'ear.  A  welk  thai  I  look,  on  m 
bettntiful  mild  evening,  aloni^  n  footpath  aix  t'wl  wide, 
winding  up  the  side  of  a  hill  on  a  gentle  slope,  preaented 


476 


8ARDIKU. 


iro, 
■son     I 


one  of  the  lovelieel  scenes  I  pTer  witnesss.!.  Ttie  OpnoKa 
hrdf^  w  from  six  to  cij;ht  feet  hi;;h,  and  ml>ove  i-ix  feet 
hnmd  at  its  Inm^  Growing;  with  wil4  Ittxamoce  amoDgst 
the  mni&atiuDB  of  the  IVickly  Pear,  twining  round  Ihcm 
in  ereiy  senser  6llin^  evety  vaosnt  HjMioe,  every  comer,  io 
Insariant  prorueion  of  growth  and  bloeeom,  WL<rc  the  wild 
crcvper*  and  flAwera  of  the  (l»lricl,  arnQncp't  n-hich  I 
niarki-d  tlin  following  ;— Viaca  major,  Ctematiii,  Sinilai,  a 
Jtrvony,  Houeysuckle,  Convolvulus,  coloured  Peas,  Asju- 
raj^iie,  Uora}^,  ITemlocI:,  l-'umitory,  Eupliorbia,  ^fuetard, 
triJd  Mignooettc,  Oat«  in  Ilower,  AlatigoUl,  a  Ololiulsi 
Poppiea,  yelloiT  Corn-Rower,  variegated  Thistle,  PvlUloi 
Woodruff,  and  Chick  weed.  There  was  not  a  epri^j  of  Ivy, 
soil  bciii^  entirely  echistic,  without  lime.  1'h«  comparison 
of  the  date,  April  26,  Ura  epoch  of  perfect  flouri'rin;;  of  tb<; 
ahove  plants  in  southern  Sardinia,  with  their  date  uf  flower- 
ing in  England  or  elsewhere,  trill  give  a  very  correct  idea  of 
the  difference  of  the  spring  climate  in  the  different  localitiea. 
The  Etart  for  the  mountains  was  nuulc  Aprd  the  27t!i, 
afWr  hmkrucl.  Wo  had  abuui  liftevn  roili-»  to  nde  on 
Sflrdinian  [Kinies  to  reiich  onr  destination,  the  lend  mine  of 
Aqua  Ueae.  'fbe  road,  a  mere  rough  stony  track,  carried 
na  over  the  last  elope*  of  tli<:  higher  mounUins,  throD)^ 
n  iliKtric-t  dvnii<k-d  i.f  trum,  l>ut  covered  with  tlio  uauil 
Mcilitt-rruDMn  hniahwoud  of  ^chi^tio  and  »i)ioeoiia  •(»)■. 
I  was  lotd  that  my  wiry  little  Sard  hone  was  as  miM 
na  a  Iamb,  provided  he  vas  not  nlloweil  to  approach  any 
other  hon^e.  In  the  Utier  ciwe  1  wo*  to  be  cnittioiie,  at 
he  nourished  a  deadly  hatred  to  his  tf|iecies,  wuaapt  to  rrar, 
to  fly  at  th<-m  like  a  bulldog,  to  fasteu  on  them  with  his 
teeth,  and  to  do  hix  victim  great  injury  I  As  1  had  se«a 
thi»  prnoess  ]>ertomie<l  on  a  tnemomble  oociuion  in  CornKSi 
I  won  not  iKirticulariy  anxious  that  my  pony  sltould  repoiC 
it  whiUt  1  was  on  hia  back,  so  1  kept  ut  tiret  at  a  moot 
FMpeotful  dirianoa  from  my  oompanions.  Finding  him, 
liowever,  thoroughly  triictnble  to  tlic  band,  I  gradually 
gained  courage,  and  became  filled  with  ndiniralinn  lor  bb 
gmiil  points.  Jle  leally  proved  with  me  sa  pontic  and 
tractable  as  a  lamb ;  ana,  moreover,  so  S'lre  fijuted,  id 
g  of  limb,  that  we  uGcondcd  prccipicw  like  the  stdis  of 


THE   MDt'fiS — AQUA  DESE. 


477 


a  house,  desicended  slopcH  all  but  perpend  iciilar,  aiwJ  cmwlecl 
up  iind  ilon'R  amon<;  stones  nml  rocks  many  t'eut  in  height; 
iiiiiccil,  lut  Miavi-d  like  n  cut  i>n  a  lioiwc  top,  with  mo 
oti  hi^  h'-ieV.  One  gota  accuHtomed  to  ovLTvlhii)^,  iind 
althoUKU  at  Krat  nitlier  nervous  and  abriued,  long  betnra 
Ilic  duy  wus  over  I  vrn  a»  self-pouceMid  ns  A  U^ht  rope 
dunoer. 

\V«    wore  received  at  the  miue  of   Afjua  Hese  hy  the 
director,  a  Gentian    en^neer.    nlio  epoke  En-;1ish  like  a 
uative.     He  muile  ti»  thorou|>'l)1y  comf'ortuble  and  at  hom*  . 
in  his  littlii  Itouite,  built  on  a  lerraee  on  the  monntain  itid«, 
near  the  works.    This  terrace  ovL-rlooks  a  pictureAiue  wind- 
ing rulley,  which  ends  on  the  sea  ohore  about  nine  mitea 
dilitAnU    The  owners  of  the  nriiiii'  hnvu  innde  n  ^od  ciirria<;9 
rood  through  tbia  valley  by  mrjiiiH  of  wliieh  the  niotal  la 
taken  to  the  western  sea  lor  shipment.     Attor  diiim-r  w« 
cxiiniiiK^d  the  mine,  which  in  vrry  inleiestint;.    Thi-sc  tninea 
are  generiilly  worked,  nn  iilri.nidy   »tiilt'd,  by  galmirs  ex- 
cavated   from    the    mountain    sides,   the  c»inniunicatioa 
hetwoen  dilTcrent  galcries  bein^;  sometimes  entabliiiitt-d  by 
eUalls.     1  found  our  ho«t  a  very  scicntilic  M-ell-iiirormea 
man,  full  of  mining  lore,  in(le*.-<l,  mtuiated  with  it.      He 
was  a  scienlilio  chemist  and  geolouiet,  but  nil  hisi  Uiiowledgv  J 
on  lhi'»«  subjects  nwrnod  to  t^Uv  instinctively  the  direction 
of  mining  and   metallurgy,      lie    hw.1   pnii-tiojlly  studied 
mining  in  many  parte  of  the  world,  on  the  continiriit,  in 
Asia,  in  fiatavia.     Study,  he  saiil,  was  the  gcxiial  noliicu  of 
his  Bolilury  life,  tor  he  was  all  but  alone  fur  eight  monUia  , 
of  the  year,  xurroimded  by  an  ignorant  and  lawless  mob 
of  workmen.     There  were  many  hundred  ini'n  under  his 
charge,  and  »  the  mining  pay  was  good,  it  attraelcd  not, 
only  Sards  but  tliouKan<U   fn'm    tliu  eontinont ;  some  of] 
tliem  were  honeat  and  true,  but  many  went  llieKcuni  of  tli« 
conttnentiil  cities,  which  they  hail  made  too  hot  for  tliera.  I 
Tlieonly  way  tosecurvdiMiplino  was  tooxact  implicit obed»-| 
enov,  and  t4i  diami^it  inatantly  tlione  who  reaisted.  Sometimes 
he  had  to  dismiu  twenty  or  more  at  an  hour's  notice,  regard- 
less  of  thi'ir  binek  looks  and  of  their  mutt«rcd  threats.     In 
hi»    room    our    lioiit    Ium)    tguitc   an  armoury   of  guns  and 
revolvers,  reudy  lor  ein«rg«nuieH,  he  Uughinj^ly  remarked. 


Slim 


lint 
lh« 

'M 


478  SARDINU:. 

In  working  tK'  mincn,  cinlracte  nro  entercMl  into 
stib-tneimt  »omiii;h  tho  milid  loutru,  tW  price  Jc|Knniin);  on 
th«  fadlity  or  didlnulty  of  cslrnctiim,  ami  un  liu:  qtinlity  of 
the  ore.   These  aub-men  eunage  Uie  workera  and  divide 
recuipte  with  them  socoi'diD^  to  ccrtiiin  rstae.     Duriii); 
niiilariii  months,  from  Juii<;  to  (XtIoIht,  the  mimi'  in  Sii^ 
diiii^  Are  all  )>ut  clo«L-d,  nnd  nearly  u]l  the  oftiubis  huvv  ft 
liolidny,  withdrawinif  to  the  mainland  lor  saiiity. 

Tho  next  moruiii^  \vv  a;;»iD  elsited  afWr  braukrnst  lor 
tnothiT  mine,  I'^ln  Ciutluni,  iilwut  cixU-on  niilcii  dtittAnt, 
in  the  midst  of  tlie  higher  moutitains.     Our  tnnk  at  lint 
again  took  iis  over  a  purely  schistic  formation,  and  lh« 
T^vtation  wtu  the  same  lu  the  ilay  provions.     Tlie  smna^ 
vm  very  like  tliat  of  the  hii^liliindti  of  Svolknd,  only  iiiElt 
of  Heather  we  had  the  Conieiiii  inaquis,  Ijentiscuti,  Cy  titm 
Asphodel,  Ferala,  Arbutus,   Mediterranean  Heath,  and    _ 
moii't  lociilitics  purpli-  Cydnmon.     Tlit-n  iipiKUin-d  Myrtle, 
ClemiitiK,  Sniilax,  and  Ivv,  also  uild  I'tar-trent  imwii  hy 
birdf,  idioning  that  lime  \va»  l)e);;inuing  to  mingle  with  the 
schistic  soil;  as  it  )»ecaiiie  more  and  more  a  oain|iouo4)^^ 
thew  planta  increased  in  luxuriance  of  development.         ^^| 

We  were  constantly  climkint;  ulon^ide  and  over  mouo^^ 
tains  lUOO  or  laflO  fi-cl  IhkIi,  or  descending  into  yalk-ye 
nearly  as  deep.     In  thi^  early  part  vl'  the  day  these  niomi- 
taiiia  were  all  but  denudtd  of" limWr,  which  had  beeu  nilh- 
lefisly  cut  down,  for  there  were  thoiisiinds  of  largo  stumps 
dolling  the  inonntaiii  vide.     It  itppfars  tluit  t«9n  yearn  a^ 
a  L^liorn  merchant  bonnht  many  square  milee  of  mount 
forest  from  the  Government  for   t4,0U0J^,  to  be  paid 
inNtalineuts.     lie  then  made  a  contract  for  chantoid  will 
i\w   Spaninh   (idVL-rnincnt,   and  with   tlie   money   thonco 
received  paid  his  instalments  as  they  fell  due,  gaining  a 
million  of  francs  (40,000/.)  on  tlm  transaction.    His  energy 
is  to  be  admired,  but  he  ought  never  to  have  been  <vll[>n*«d 
to  denude  t]ic  mountainti  entirely  of  timber  without  re- 
planting!. My  companifina  assured  me  that  the  Boil,  no  longer 
rctaint-d  iu  place  by  the  roots  of  the  trees,  and  protected  hj 
their  h-ikvcs,  will,  nil  hut  to  a  certainty  in  thi-  climate,  lio 
carried  uway  by  the  turretitial  rains  of  winttir.     In  tluit 
case  the  mouutuius  will  become  denuded  and  sterile  lor 


impa 
I  ag^J 

1  h^ 

with 


A.  SARDIMUK   VIBGEK  FOREST. 


479 


I,  M  is  the  cofie  w!th  ea  many  mountain  summit*  in 
MBtb,  formerly  covered  with  furuirU,  now  m«r«  baro 
melts. 

On  leiivJDg  tUc  territory  of  thia  Torest  Vandxl  ire  entered 
«  region  where  tlie  trt-es  had  not  as  yet  felt  the  axe,  and 
■uon  found  ouriclviu  in  tlio  niiditt  of  Uie  most  beautiful 
monnUin  iind  forat  socDcry  1  bavo  any  where  beheld.  Tli« 
prinuiiiul  trees  wure  the  Ilex,  or  evergreen  Oak,  and  they 
were  the  Hnest  1  have  Men  in  the  eoutli  of  Europe.  Many 
were  as  l*rgc  and  tu  fine,  if  not  lar}^>r  and  liner,  than 
any  Eiiiflinh  Oalin  I  ever  met  with  in  a  ndtilemnn'M  park. 
In  their  elforta  to  |^t  t^i  the  light,  from  the  mountain  sidef) 
and  valleys,  tliey  had  often  twistvd  themselves  into  the 
mort  fantastic  elinpea.  In  one  deep  and  mii^nificenl  ff>rs;e 
Uie  luxiirinnco  of  vegetation  wust  greater  than  anything  L 
hftd  wItno!«ii.-tl  before  in  any  Und,  and  recalled  to  my  uiind 
tho  descriptions  X  have  md  of  vir^n  trnpicid  forcxte.  Tho 
wild  Vinei',  Ivicx,  Clemntieew,  lloneyitucklcH,  Bliurkbctrie?, 
Sorsaparillad,  instead  of  being  iiim|>1y  crettperx,  had  beontno 
lianes — ^ropos ;  tliey  amended  into  treew  forty  or  fifty  feet 
)ii>;b  or  more,  twining  round  their  stems.  It  was  perfectly 
dvli<|btfiil  to  me  to  aee  our  Blackberry  quite  eijiial  to 
the  occasion,  and  olimbing  aa  eoer^tically,  mt  vigorously 
as  any,  the  wild  Vines  excepted,  for  1  could  not  Wt  look 
npon  him  mm  n  countryman,  even  in  a  virgin  forest  in 
Sardinia.  Ivy,  Myrtle,  Cyttfii*,  l->rn«,  Polypoilium  vnltfare, 
Filix-mas,  Asplenium  Adiantum-nitrrum,  erept  out  of  every 
crevice  of  the  limestone  rock,  and  waved  their  frond!!  in 
the  air,  whilst  the  benutifnl  pnrpic  blossom  of  the  Cyclumen 
covered  the  ground  aa  DaiNtea  do  in  the  north.  These 
vallevB  roust  lie  very  moist  for  many  monthH  of  the  yU'ir, 
for  the  trunks  and  tho  branches  of  many  of  the  trees  were 
covurv-d  wiili  moss,  and  in  this  mom  was  growing  abun- 
dantly I'olypodium  vulgare.  In  the  <M-iitn!  of  tiiis  wild 
lovely  valley  was  an  abundant  brawling  stream  of  pure 
mountain  water,  leaping  over  the  itonve,  as  in  Itora-shiret 
only  the  water  waa  not  peat  ntaineid,  for  peat  and  l)i-;itli«r 
were  entirely  absent.  In  all  parts  of  this  wild  valloy  I 
found  growing  freely  Axpleninm  Adiantuni-ni){nim,  I'leris 
at^uiliiui,  Asplenium  TricUoouinea,  as  aUo  a  Urge   whild- 


480 


BARDiyiA. 


AmM^HiH.     Tlie  Ivy  vaa  often  eo  laxuriant  io  it 
tliat  it  covi-rcd  the  titles  oi  liJgU  cltflK. 

PnU  GtiUtira,  where  wc  arrived  in  due  course  in  limD  Tor 
dinner,   reproduced    Aoiui    Ucse,  only    under   eliJI    more 
picture^iiie  and  rasdnatmg  conditions  ofmotiRtuin  eccner}'. 
The   gullcrice  latdin^r  to  tlio  ittitm — one  of  cnrlmnnte  o^h 
mine— iiri>  uisu)  in  the  llunka  oftlie  mountain,  aiid  the  direj^H 
tor's  houne  is  also  on  a  t«rrace  adjotnin};.     1  can  but  cocn> 

fare  it  to  u  shootinif  loil^e  in  ii  remote  corner  of  tl>e 
li|;hlimc)*  of  Scolliind.  Within  u  few  yard*  a  vnrj'  iit)im- 
diiul  >|)ring  of  puru  oool  water  ii&uvtt  from  the  moimUin, 
and  riislies  down  a  deep  ravine  which  it  has  furrowed,  in 
tliu  midst  of  n  thielcet  of  verdiiri}  which  it  liaa  created. 
This  >i>ring  ix  u  gri-iit  boon  t<i  the  loeuhty,  na  good  water  i* 
Yerj-  ecaroe  over  the  tt>'<-'ater  part  of  Sonlinia,  owing,  do 
doilht,  Iq  the  porous  eohietic  character  of  the  soil.  At  this 
mine  the  oulj-di rector  was  a  hiUKUomc  youn^  Italian,  eon 
of  It  VfUi'tian  nuhlemHn.  Imteiid  of  livin|>  in  idU-ness  lie  hiid 
put  hid  ehotihler  to  the  wheel, ii  good xign  lor" Italia  Unita." 
WhiUt  ut  Pub  (juttum  I  learnt  th^it  a  ^reat  part  of  tltu 
forest  we  had  crossed  in  the  day  had  recently  been  pur> 
chased  from  the  Govern  m en t  hy  the  proprietors  of  the 
mine,  in  order  to  make  eliitriHHil  tor  thuir  work*.  II10  eiim 
pnid,  aix  or  eight  ihmuund  jiotinds,  for  many  Ihounund 
serea  of  foreet- cove  red  mount.iin  land,  some  of  uliiuh, 
situated  in  the  valley,  is  arable,  smms  very  small  to  us.  it 
appeare  that  u  large  portion  of  Sardinia  belonged  to  t! 
"oommnnes"  or  i}ari»h<»,  and  that  receutly  the  UoV' 
nent,  for  the  public  good,  hoa  expropriated  them  and  tak 
possesion  of  tlie  lnnd«,  payin)!  "  nominal  indemnity, 
foiindi-d  on  preiteiit  value;  th(!iM;propertii-nareb«ing  gradn- 
ally  lin>ught  to  market.  There  are  «ak>s  every  b'lx  niontlia, 
and  immense  tracts  are  being  eold  at  mere  nominal  rateff. 
The  minerals,  however,  do  not  go  with  the  muI;  the 
Government  givcx  u  mining  licence  to  the  firkt  person  who 
ditiir'jven'  a  mine  and  appties  for  a  licence,  nitb  a  poner  to 
exprMpriate  the  owner  of  the  land  required  for  the  works 
on  piiymi-nt  of  an  indemnity. 

The  lolbwing  luoriiiug  we  returned  to  Igleaias  by  aunthvr 
-route,  through  11  mountain  and  forest  district  as  beautiful 


iakwP 


SPORT  IX  SABDiyiA,   C^OLIARI. 


481 


■»9  the  one  previously  travorscil.  A  v«ry  tMijoynblo  picnic 
atnotit^t  the  rocke  on  tlio  Mi-iivlmre  inurkL-d  the  next  dny  ("t 
ever  with  a  white  Mone,  and  then  we  departed  for  Cagliari, 
filler  tukin^  leave  of  qui'  worthy  host.  Thanks  to  Iiim  kind 
reception  of  uh  wc  had  nn  opportunity  of  aeeiujj;  the  wild 
virgin  forent  «ci;»ery  of  Sardinia,  which  could  scarcely  Iw 
reached  except  under  such  niu^picvt).  1  buw  no  viUiiKve,  no 
l)3l>it4>tiiin«  whcrovcr  w«  wuat,  and  no  population  except 
that  connecled  with  the  mines.  There  are  villages,  litiL  I 
am  lold  they  contain  no  aecnmmndiition  of  any  kind  for 
itrangvni— nothing  but  tlic  native  huts.  The  lovely  hi^^h- 
lands  of  Sardinia  may,  thus,  tie  considered  inuM'eflaible, 
except  under  some  soch  delij^htlul  auspice,  to  all  excqit 
eportsmen  nccuslom«d  and  ready  to  idit-p  in  Miuds,  barnt!, 
or  in  thu  ogtcn  air.  It  in  Miid  Uiat  th<ue  mountain  forv^ta 
are  full  of  wild  boars,  ofdi-er,  and  of  ^jaine  in  g«neml. 

I  heard  of  an  Ensli^h  nobUiinaii  wlm  (unit!  to  Sardinia 
in  a  large  >t«am  yacht,  anchon-d  in  the  little  porto,  hunted 
all  day,  and  always  came  bock  to  his  yiK'ht  to  dine  and  sleep, 
u  muit  comfortalili!  and  jtatinfaivlory  plan  for  Hi-cing  and 
cnjoyini;  the  wild  beauttea  and  the  eport  of  Sardinia. 

kCatl"*^  '"  rather  a  Bnu  city,  partly  aifuated  on  a  rock 
800  limit  above  the  nt'n,  not  u»  iinhcjilihy  Hi  Oristano, 
■llhuti^^h  MDrrxiunded  by  |>ond><  or  lakes,  but  t)>ey  are  Mill, 
and  appear  nut  to  praduo;  fever  to  any  extent.  Althou;fh 
l&O  miles  more  ponth  than  Sjiwiri,and  only  loU  mites 
from  AInca,  I  found  the  vegetation  no  more  tropical,  no 
iDOfe  advaiioud  than  at  Sassari.  A  aortli-weil  wind  wiia 
blowing  all  the  time  1  was  there,  and  it  waa  very  cool  and 
pleasant.  1  was  told  that  lite  wind)*  in  winter  and  sprini; 
^■nenilly  blow  from  that  direction,  that  iit,  down  the  central 
Sardinian  plaina  from  the  north,  and  make  t)ii»  cliin^ite  cool 
but  latlittr  dam;i.  Whilst  I  was  there,  ftxim  the  Ul  to  the 
Srd  of  May,  the  tvmpvrature  ut  night  waa  below  00"  Kahr., 
and  in  the  day,  in  the  shade,  it  did  not  rise  above  OS";  yet 
tlw  sun  WM  vory  hot,  all  but  inauEiportably  iki.  I  wan  told 
that  when  th«  wind  changed  to  the  aouth,  which  it  might 
do  any  day,  the  heat  would  be  terrific,  going  up  to  lOtr  or 
lot"  in  July  and  August. 

I  carvfulljr  examined  iho  public  garxlvn,  wbi<!li  ia  bolow 

1  1 


I 


482 


SARDINIA. 


t)i<>  ramparts,  in  a  v^ry  shelter^  spot,  as  at  Snrcari,  and 
foiinil  it  pniiL'ipnlly  pUnti-il  wild  )iiir<ly  or  hair  Kiircly  Bv«r- 
ftrecn  trcenand  Htirults,  I  lux,  CorkU.ik,  3£itonyniiuja]>onica, 
Jiialicia,  Box,  Ma<;noIia.  There  wer«  also  Soliinu«  Mtilli, 
AilniilbiiM,  I'opuliiii  nllifi,  Cytiniie,  Aencia,  Fi<;u«  (tliutticn. 
Tlu-K  wcrv  n  dnxen  small  Orntij^  ln.«!(,  tvro  or  ttiree  fuot 
high,  in  a  slieltered  oorner,  eurroimded  hy  u  heilKO  of 
Knonjmne,  and  hnlf  doad  ;  \)w  pxtrcmitios  of  tlii;  bniiivlic* 
u-eiv  qtiiU'  doud.  On  lonkiiit;  from  the  nim|wriB  on  the 
Ifiwn,  1  Haw  in  some  ciurtyardft  below  me,  eurronmlod  liy 
the  houses  and  by  wnlln  tilU-en  or  twenty  f<x-t  Ui;;li;  Kenan 
Ornn<;<!  irev*,  whi<;h  loolfM]  very  healllir  and  w«ll.  They 
evidently  required  protection  of  this  kind— to  be  in  » 
epccii's  of  well — to  rvFitit  the  north  vrin<U  tlint  eoumi 
through  Centi-ul  Siirdinia  in  winti^r,  evvti  here,  in  llic 
BouUietn  jiart  of  the  Ikledilerranean,  not  muok  mure  tlian 
a  hundred  nitlos  from  the  euast  of  ArHca.  ^H 

Caifliari  has  all  the  nspeet  of  a  smnll  capital.  Tlie  toml^ 
BKcnndx  from  thu  iihore  li>  tlie  upper  |iurt  of  u  hill  or  rook 
three  humlred  feet  high,  which  in  aurrcunded  by  etrons  wnlla 
Imilt  by  the  Pisang.  There  ia  lliiiH  an  Upper,  n  middle, 
iind  a  lower  l.tiwn.  In  the  upper  town  there  ftMi :  a  Gu« 
cuthedr.il,  a  cita<lel,  n  haTidKonie  universily  and  nitiM>um, 
Giiveroment,  archietiifcnpal,  and  private  paloee^,  nnd  Uf^^e, 
fine  himsiw.  Tlie  view  from  the  eitmkl  is  mn^nilioent;  to 
th<!  north  the  Cumpiduni,  or  phiias  of  Central  Sardinia, 
east  and  weet  Inri^  tmlt  water  lakes,  beyond  them  on  each 
aide  fine  moiintniu?,  to  the  south  the  open  sea.  Tli«  women 
are  good  loukini;,  and  SpaniKli  in  exprvNiion.  The  gala 
ooatamee  of  both  iiii^n  and  women  of  the  peasant  class  ara 
pieturesfpu- ;  thnsc  of  the  latter  arc  embroidered  witJi  satin 
and  •;ol<l,  mid  Imleektil  with  jewelii.  Finally,  Cii|;ti.irt  is 
li(;htL'd  with  ga»  and  stipplietl  with  pure  mountain  water 
by  an  Knghsh  company,  which  is  payinj;  a  fpjoi  interest  to 
its  rpiriied  projeclore.  For  morv  oircunietuntial  dtttaiU 
reapeetjni;  Sardinia  and  the  book]!  written  tliereou,  1  woi 
refer  to  Murray's  Guide, 

My  objxil  ui  makin;;  this  journey  to  Sardinia  was 
atiidy  its  diinnto,  a*  inierpvelvd  by  the  vccotation  in  spri 
and   I  gfiined  theivby  tlie  inlurmation  of  which  I  w:is  in 
ouect.     Sardinia  cnniiui  be  recommended  to  invalidx. 


•WINDS,  CUMATE,   VEGETATION. 


483 


to  any  one,  se  a  dheltorctl  winter  rp9iil«nce.  Tlio 
tnountninit  run  priticipnUy  (Voiii  north  to  mjuth,  n'>t  from 
ea»t  to  went,  una  are  not  wry  high,  so  thejr  give  but  little 
protection  from  north  wiuj«.  Indcod,  the  hi;;h  plains 
which  occupy  thu  ccntri-  of  Sjuxlinin  la  the  nortli,  iintl  the 
low  pbintt  which  occnjiy  the  centre  in  iJie  Huuth,  witli  the 
nionutain  ranires  on  each  sidv,  offer  a  kind  of  bed  to  the 
nortli-eii"t  nm)  north-wcrt  winilx  which  connw  ituwii 
the  i^lunil,  nith  viiilence,  mont  of  the  winter.  TIr-hl*  winila 
aro  Dot  only  cool  but  damp,  as  they  have  paAsod  over 
i>  tract  of  Rcs  guflicicntly  cxtcitHivc  to  moiHtvn  thvni  ivitlioiit 
warming  them.  Theru  may  be  nook*  and  cornera  in  thu 
i<tlan(l,  ut  the  south  hose  of  uioiuitaioa,  with  lateral  prot«c< 
tion,  east  and  west,  where  the  winter  paosofl  in  eunshina 
und  vhcltcr;  bitt  they  are  niiknown,  and  inaccouiblo  tivun 
if  they  exist.  To  UmrisU,  however,  wheu  the  eotd  wiiida 
of  winter  are  over,  and  licloro  the  heats  of  Eiimmer  have 
comnioiK'cd,  that  is,  in  the  months  of  April  an<l  M^iy,  Fiieh 
u  journey  in  Sardinia  ai>  I  took  if  very  cnjoyabli'.  They 
inuBt,  however,  be  able  to  put  up  with  very  inferior  hotel 
nccominodution,  and  ouf^ht  to  have  inlroducUons  1  hat  will 
t»kc  them  out  of  the  l>catcn  tnwk,  a*  wan  my  cumt.  lieforw 
Ion);,  when  the  railroad  is  ci>ini>l«ted  from  Forto  'I'orreii  to 
Cflglinri,  the  inns  will,  no  doubt,  improve,  stid  Sardinia 
luiiy  liccomv  a  high  rend  to  the  soiilhurn  Modiu-traneau. 
Cagluri  is  only  Hixleen  houra  by  vteamer  from  Tunis, 
twenty  from  Naples,  and  twcwty-four  from  Pialeroio, 

In  conclusion,  I  would  odd  that  a  fortnight's  careful  in- 
vuNtipition  of  the  vegulntioii  of  Sardinia  in  ^prin^;  con- 
firmed the  convietiona  formed  alter  the  examination  and 
study  of  the  other  lar^re  islands  of  the  MuiIiterrAiiiMn— 
Corsica  and  Sicily.  North-ensL  and  porth-w<-«t  windu  ia 
winter,  from  December  to  May,  reUin  their  full  |»>»ur  in 
unprotected  localities  in  the  M eji terra nean  basin,  even 
in  its  southern  islaodfi.  Wheu  mountain  prot-x-tion  and 
flheltcr  gite  the  una  fuir[day,  us  at  the  Oran^ce  proves  of 
Milid,  the  temperature  is  a.^  mild  as  on  the  nrulccted  norlli 
liivierai  shores,  not  milder,  but  the  atmosphere  is  inoUter 
from  inxnlnr  poxition. 

I  embarked  at  Cagliar!  on  Ihc  3rd  of  May  for  TiiiiiBj 
on  my  way  to  the  ii^laud  of  Midln. 

Hi 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


U.U-TA. 
ffin  roTAor  runt  Yir^n— Wai.t*— PiiYMCAi.  aeooaxrfiv — tiUfTT*- 

1KUKT4T10TI — THE    IMeRlOB— CCLTIVAtlOJi — Till  ST.   AKTlMilO  UAH- 
UKSM — VlKDi«— HllNCAlX. 

Aftkii  finiting  Tiinw,  CarthJiK*,  and  their  viciiiitr, 
wished  to  {>ro<teei)  to  M:i1tn  The  only  regular  ixiinmai 
cation  between  Tunis  and  MalU  U  by  a  little  act 
Btminer— llic  f.<m/yjtrl<i,  h  incr«  sronll  Btvam  j-uclit,  which 
rollx  Ti-arfullj^,  bat  i*  kwi^  und  aafn.  It  plii-w  Wivkly 
'1>ctweon  Moh  deetiimtion,  hut  on  this  oecatiton  ita  iisuul 
nrrival  at  and  departtiw  I'mm  Tunis  waa  delayed.  I  bi 
bcci)  iicurly  a  n-ock  tlicre.  had  miiiutoly  examined  tl 
town  and  thu  m-iglihnuHng  axintry,  and  the  hotel  nccom^ 
ntodHtiou  waa  very  Iwid.  Moreover,  there  was  otwutiitc^ 
nothing  to  do,  for  I  had  not  leisure  to  examine  the  interic 
I  beciinio  therefore  very  niixtoufi  to  get  away,  and  llirouj 
the  l<indnc8»  of  Uie  rice-oonsul,  ceeured  a  nasoue 
Malta  in  a  Iart;c  meichant  ship,  which  had  called  at  I'tiatt^ 
to  unload  cnigo  on  its  way  to  Ak-smidrin.  The  vcswl,  a 
tteamcT,  had  eighty  tons  of  {gunpowder  on  btnurtl  fur  tJie 
earrison  at  Malta,  hut  I  was  too  anxious  to  depart  to  be 
influenoed  by  «nch  a  minor  consideration  I  On  this  line 
riiip,  heavily  laden,  goiuf;  at  kIx  or  kovou  miles  an  hour 
only,  vrith  a  strong  north-w»t  or  west  wind,  we  hwl 
a  beanliful  paiiKagc.  '  Although  the  wind  was  howlinsi  the 
tiky  grey,  uiid  the  sea  rough,  wc  morvd  along,  wind  behind 
w,  ns  steadily  as  a  ehiireh,  eonid  eat  and  drini;  and  Iw 
merry,  and  arrived  at  Malta  May  tf  after  lliirty-lour  hours' 
nnvi^ttion.  t^n  IhiK  vojnge  I  wa«  again  much  struttk  by 
the  diUi-renoe  bc-twt^en  atoamin'j  in  n  large  nhip  and  in 
smull  one.  At  present  in  the  Mediterranean  everything  1 
eucrititred  to  sjtevd;  su  the  ordinary  paswnger  steamers, . 


^ 


VAUtTTA   AND  ITS  VBGBTATIO.V. 


485 


W 


N 
^ 


MTcn-s,  are  0i«lev«ry  lonR  and  very  narrow,  drawini*  very 
little  wstvr.  Tl)uy  »ro  like  ci>^r«,  aiid  roll  JV-uHully  if  thfl 
wa  is  in  thu  «ligbt««t  deip'ee  ai;itat«il,  when  u  Urgcr  and 
flteadter  vessel  would  scarcely  feel  it,  Tliis  mn^vn  aea(arif\g 
mom  trying  in  tlio  Mvilit«rmncan  than  it  used  to  be  in  tbt 
dayit  of  broad  piiddli'-whiyl  KU-niiiun. 

Malta  ii  a  oalcareous  rocky  lelanil,  which  ri§e!'  a  few 
hnndrcd  feet  only  above  the  e<?a,  aod  is  situated  in  latititdti 
35' !  it  in  filty-riffht  miles  from  the  ncarert  point  of  Sidly, 
one  hundred  ai)d  Kiiventy-niiie  from  tlie  nearest  coast-lins 
of  Africa,  foity-four  milee  iQoircumfer«iica,eevente«n  milcfl 
in  |>rviib(«t  Un)7>.h  north  to  south,  nine  ntilus  in  {•rentMt 
width  i!UMt  to  nojd.  A  flight  rocky  i>luvation  or  ridge, 
from  north  tu  Bouth,  st-pdniti.-!!  the  island  into  two  unequal 
portions,  the  eastern  beint;  the  mort'  ext^-neive  and  tho 
inotx-  {lupulQus.  Thft  anrfuce  i«  undHlntint*  and  uneven, 
although  the  general  character  of  the  island  is  that  of  a 
plain,  ttowhcre  rising  more  than  six  hnndred  feat  ahovo  Uie 
•ea. 

In  the  town  of  Valutta,  overlooking  tlio  inagnificant 
harbour,  there  ia  but  tittle  v<!:^!tation  ;  Htill  there  are  Mine 
aquares  planted,  and  a  »mall  slra^ling  garden  on  the 
mmpiirt^,  Moreover,  wild  plants  tpnvi  here  and  thrre  in 
nook»  and  euniers.  The  v<.",4i.-tation  nppettred  to  me  iden- 
tically the  same  an  in  other  [MirU  of  the  )I(?dilerr.itieaa 
— at  Athena  or  Sardinia,  at  Corfu,  Tunis,  or  Smyrna,  and 
tlie  stage  of  (growth  the  same  as  in  these  and  other  similar 
r»jriM[i«  at  thi*i  C|ioeh  of  the  sprin<;  (thv  i>ec<ind  wiiik  in 
May).     My  explorations  commenewl  on  the  10th. 

Ill  the  rampart  garden  I  found  AilatitliuAeomiiiGr  into 
leaf,  Schiniis  Alalli  in  Itower,  Uleander  in  bud,  Inrgu 
Mallow  in  Hower,  Edonymus  jnpnniut  in  (lower,  Pome* 
frranatc  tn  leal',  CuruulMi  tree*,  Sida  arl>orea,  Sparniauuiu 
Africana,  Buddleia  IkiadagMHcarieiittia  in  flower;  ItomM, 
hybrid,  Uaiikf'ia,  oiultiDora,  in  Howor;  Junlieia  urbonm, 
KaKturtinin,  Stoek,  Pel«nin,  Verbena,  Marigold,  feUrgO* 
ninni,  Lark»pur,  Virginian  Stouk,  in  tlowi.'r;  lloHylioek,  first 
flower  openim;  ;  Fig  in  lull  leaf,  fruit  swelling  ;  Ojmntia, 
and  AluL-.  Nearly  all  these  had  been  (lowering  in  my 
gurdun  ut  ^lentonu  ever  siueu  Fcbriwry  or  M^rch. 


486 


MALTA. 


In  llitt  (^rden  of  the  Governor's  town  palace,  sar- 
rouiHlttl  on  nil  sides  by  buililin;^,  a  mer«  planted  vdurl- 
yurd  ill  thi;  inti;nor  of  tim  lowii,  ivvrt:  miiny  of  tltn« 
pluiilx  uikI  {lowers.  In  addition  I  iDticed  a  magniliMiit 
Arauc-jria  e^celsa  at  leoit  (illy  feet  liiyli,  planted  iu  ISbH 
hy  I'riiiw  AH'ri-d,  and  tliuti  only  Mvcn  teet  in  height.     Tho 

I  wallM  were  ooirere<l  with  ti  Ituii^iiivilU-a  in  full  bloom,  a 
l}eautiful  tight.  The  viKOtii-  and  luxiimueu  of  thiit  plant 
ehoned  that  the  cak.-ireoue  eoil  and  the  olimate  of  Malta 
suit  it  thoroughly.  There  wiis  also  JaMmiiium  n-voluttim, 
Dignonia  Cn|H.'nNi8  in  flower,  Fuohfiu  not  in  Dnwcr,  OriingCH 
jti^t  ^t,  Loqnats  npeulQjr,  Caiuuriiia  Ituurisbin);,  Cereaa 
gTandillovii  the  «^ime. 

Tliu  fullowing  day  I  took  a  k-isiiivly  drive  to  Citta 
Vecchia,  tbe  former  capitid,  »ix  milen  from  Vnletta,  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  isUnd,  on  one  of  the  highwt  points  of 
thvcenlrsl  ridge.  On  a  subsoijaent  occasion  1  drove  ri)>ht 
through  the  iMiind  to  8t.  Paul's  &iy,  at  the  noutli- 
Ucitt4-rn  extremity,  caix'fnlly  cxumiiiin<r  the  asix-rt  of  tlio 
country  uud  the  vegetation  all  the  way.  Seen  from  a 
heiijht,  as  for  inatatiee  from  the  heights  of  Citta  Vec- 
chia,  the  ieland  of  Malla  looks  burreu,  and  thence,  no 
doubt,  it  hus  liccn  deecrihed  as  a  barren  ruek.  Tbe  nioet 
curitory  in)i|iecli<ii),  tiowevrr,  ithow*  that  thix  )*  a  grom 
emjr,  and  that  the  aceoiinl^  of  Koil  having  been  trans- 
ported from  the  oontinent  are  totally  ili>void  of  loundution. 
The  emir,  no  doubt,  oripoattn  in  ihe  fact  thtit  tlie  entire 
i^laI1d  )!<  diviiJL'd  inlo  hthls  of  a  few  acm  «neh,  as  in 
3^n»]an(l,  that  tla-se  fields  are  bounded  hy  itone  w^dls 
I'oor  or  live  feet  hi;>h,  and  that  scmroelv  any  treit*  higher 
thiHi  the  waits  are  lo  Iw  even.  IJi:>her  trees  exist,  but 
they  are  hidden  in  gardens  Fiirroiunlcd  hy  walU  f)tte«n, 
twenty,  or  twenty-live  feet  high.  Tlius  an  uhnerver  may 
pafs  through  the  inland,  and  under  the  very  walls  of  these 
gardens,  without  seeing  a  shrub  or  a  tree  thc^ri'in  iMutuine<). 
It  IK  the  winds  tlmt  course  over  the  low  »ea-giit  inland 
from  (^viTV  I'oinl  of  the  vonipa-is,  that  necessitate  this 
extraordioary  amount  of  shelter.     No  IreeB    exiepl    the 

(pyraniidul  Cypn-s^,  and  scarcely  that  wind-proof  Conifer, 
appear  able  to  nwt  their  inlluvnec,  and  to  grow  witlti 
tlie  pTuU-ctiou  ofwallii  or  of  »tirruuuding  huildintjjs. 


THE  INTEBIon  AND   ITS   VEGETATION, 


487 


► 


P 


I 


If,  an  we  ])SKti  Jiloiij  tlie  rou<I,  we  look  over  tlio  atoiio 
walln,  we  at  once  pcroeive  Uiat  every  enclosure  cootains  soil 
vuUivsU-d  willivxtramo  carv,  imil  proilucin};  i;ro[i8ubiin<lttiit 
althotiffli  tDL-Agre  and  low  in  liuliit.  I  uW'rviid  )>Hiici|uilly 
beardeuWli«it«nd  Uarley  curutng colour,  PotaU>o$,  Vetdits, 
Clover,  an<t  Beans.  Th?  valn«  of  manure  la  cluurly  nppre- 
cuilcd,  lor  many  liolds  liad  Ihx'II  ])loii<!;lied  uiid  w<:ru cuvorvcl 
witii  lieups  ol' manure abniit  to  he  dti;;  in.  I  was  tuldtliat  tlie 
■■«von(i  summer  crop  is  Cotton,  wliich  Uexleosively  planted. 
Ill  ull  llnste  til-Ida  there  was  not  a  wecjl  to  l>c  R«eit,  they 
wer«  as  clear  lua  a  (^entUmau'*  ^.irden  in  Ku^jlaud  Jiut  uller 
it  l)]iB  been  iriiUDiud. 

It  iit  Haiil  Unit  moro  tluii)  two-thirds  of  tlie  island  tn  under 
cultivation,  titt;  rent  being  rock,  wlivrv  Jt  riiti.'n  to  ll)e»iirf»c« 
in  ridt>6H  and  elevations,  but  tJiat  the  area  of  cullivation  is 
f^rnduully  being  extended.  I  noticed  in  several  jilaces  the 
|ir<>ci>:«  of  formation  of  imw  HeUU,  and  (ounti  ihat  it  is  very 
mncli  the  Name  aa  what  I  am  dmu;:  amun^*  my  (iriinuldi 
rocks  at  Mentonc.  Calearvoiu  rueke  are  always  full  of 
liKsures,  criircks,  and  crevices,  in  which,  in  the  Moditorruneaa 
climutc,  Tbymo,  llosemary,  and  ^riuwu«  ^row.  In  the 
ooiinM!  of  oentnricM  their  decay  forms  earth,  whieh  cullecta 
in  puater  or  less  i|iianlity  acoordin;;  to  th«  eixo  of  the  crack 
or  crvvico.  Whcu  thesu  rocks  are  brokvn  or  blanled  Uu) 
«arth  in  found,  and  forms  a  vary  good  soil.  The  broken 
ruelu  twrve  fur  xiipjioriing  or  buuudaty  vnills,  the  earth  is 
spnsd  on  the  ground  to  lorm  the  new  teriavo  or  lield,  witli 
whatever  nddition  can  be  found,  and  with  the  smallur 
iitonwi.  'Hie  bitter  disiute|^at«  i»  time,  roanuro  ta  addeil, 
aod  vci^ielation  be;^iuK. 

iiixide  villaij^s,  iniide  courtyards  >»  sjwta  two-thirds  or 
three- qua  iters  tiurrouiided  by  tiousrs  or  ontbtiildingn,  under 
the  brow  orroeks  or  ridi^es  rnnnin-^  from  eunl  to  watt,  at 
the  bottom  of  now  dry  riiviuoi  and  wiil«roourBa»^whervver, 
in  a  word,  there  WKt^lieker  from  wind,  and  wpecijilly  from 
nurtJi,  north-eiist,  or  noilb-we*-t  wind,  1  found  spurKc, 
annill,  «tuHtv<l  ciKvimflna  uf  the  familiar  ve^tatiun  of  tli« 
1  led it^rra Ilea H  :  Fiuua  maritima  and  llnlepeusis,  CiipreaatM 
jiyramidiilisand  miierK-urpu,  A)lanthus  ubiiidulosa,  Populua 
alba,    I'bytwiacutt  diuicai,  po{>ularly   called    Iklonibrosu  in 


}8 


UALTA. 


r^lttS 


IttAy,  tnoat  fVequently  amull  Pi^  tree«,  Schiniui  Itfttit), 
Lt-ntLscMs,  Caroutn,  Uiaisy,  a  amull  Euphorbia,  a  Mallow, 
Coniuni,  the  yellow  ChryMiitliemum  wg^ttiin,  a  varii-Katol 
Thisll«,  and  a  «peci<«  of  Sil*n«.  All,  bowivor,  vikk  •tuall, 
as  if  stunted  ii)  f[mu-th  fmm  n-ant  of  Itxtd,  and  alt  owmi 
to  be  luokiiif;  for  shelu-r  from  th^  wiud. 

Tlirough  thfl  kindn*^*  of  n  friend  of  fonnvr  days, 
Iniiee,  wboiii  I  found  at  the  hnid  of  tins  foruw  at  Mai 
I  wae  introduced  to  the  Qovenior,  Sir  Chsflea  Strauben 
Sir  Clinrim  ino»l  coiirt(y>ualy  aeked  me  to  eec  his  (fardi'ii: 
at  St.    Auloniu,    the   Governor's  Kutnmcr  |<aUiov,   uml   I 
examined  thvtu  tiiiiiuti-ly  with  very  dee»  iuterest. 

1  bull  pii««('d  tiirou^h  iho  vitlag^e  of  St.  Antonio  the  day 
belbre  without  even  vufpeuliu^  that  it  contuinift)  an  cx< 
tensive  (^ardeu  in  connexion  with  this  vumnier  {Mlacv. 
I1ic  only  exlenial  traoe  of  a  {^^rden  was  a  row  of  tall 
Iiyramidal  Cypnw  trws.  Onoe  inside  the  cause  was  re- 
vealed ;  where  not  boumlw)  by  (be  bnildin<^  of  tlie  palace 
it  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  at  k^ast  twetity-tiw  feet  bi>^. 
Inttido  it  leeined  us  if  a  inairictunV  uitnd  hud  tninMpnrtrsl 
kino  to  another  o^nuiry,  to  a  real  garden  of  Kden.  All  the 
rijowers  named  in  this  and  former  chaiitcrs  as  nourishing  i^^ 
winter  and  eprini*  in  the  Mediterrnnvnii  region  were  tJter^H 
^mwinj;  and  bloomin>;  with  exlrvme  luxuriance,  indvi?^' 
with  (greater  luxuriunte  thuu  X  hud  eeen  anynhere  bt^fore, 
nni  oven  exceptin<;  Jklala^,  I  he  sheltered  vullcyf  of  (Wl'u 
or  the  (ienocse  Kivit-ni,  miiioti^li  1  vim  lold  by  Sir  Ctiurlua 
that  the  Kotl  was  neither  pnxl  uor  dee^). 

There  was  a  large  tree  oi  Krythrina  coralloides,  larger 
than  thoFC  I  siiw  nt  Midnf^,  the  only  rvifion  of  the  Medi- 
Irrranean  where  I  have  Men  thetn  u«  liinlM-r  treex;  a  Picus 
elualica,  also  a  timber  tree,  minj;  at  least  fiOy  fi-et,  u«  hit^li 
'  BB  the  house.  Both  these  trees  Sir  Charles  told  ine  re* 
Faiinded  liim  of  Cliina  and  the  Eii«t,  as  ihey  were  as  lar^ru 
ns  those  utuully  met  with  there.  A  liou^^invilioti  voven.il 
onueid«  nf  thi:  hoiixc  Mitl)  xut  deep  sciirlet  bloom.  The 
inteDMly  of  the  li);l)t  and  nun  in  the  Medi terra nran  appoarti 
to  Kivo  the  flowers  IhiA  deep  searlot  hue,  I  at  first  thoti);h( 
it  wiw  u  difiurent  spci'iea,  until,  (lowering  one  in  a  fihiss- 
heuse  at  Mentunc,  1  lixitid  that  the  brM-ta  growinj^  mllier 


A 


TOE  governor's  gardes  AT  ST.   ANTOXIO.    489 

in  tbe  Bhadc  hud  the  hue  of  oar  Dooi^nvillea  Bpe«tabilis, 
whereas  the  bracU  of  the  Eame  plant  immedmtvly  andcr* 
DMth  th«  gLiKM  hiiil  thff  uKiial  <lim|>  iieurlut  hti« — as  di-cp  an 
that  of  tlie  lilhiiitoin  ol'  thi>  Wrbena  imp«rUlta.  Mar^L-hal 
Kiel  and  SalVnno  were  in  full  bloom,  as  were  many 
hybrid  K(mw«,  ttrn^al,  Buiikf^in,  and  multiflcru,  in  brgu 
bufhcit  and  Soweriiig  in  iuhkik^r;  Euphorbia  B|ilet)d<.-n!i  and 
HuBsellia  junoea  ooeiined  aa  bushes  covered  with  (lowor. 
Thfrv  vrera  uImo  several  larf^  plaota  of  CyeiiH  revoliila, 
Hi^tioniajaKiniiioiditi,  Caiwiwis,  Mpreolatn,  and  Fivun  Rtipn- 
lata  or  repens,  covering  larf^  walls.  SparmaDniu  Alriciinu, 
Justiciii  arljorea,  Ilabrothamnua  ele^pinR,  Abutilon  Mula- 
Itollj  Viiica  miijor,  Loniccra  Hexuflnii  japoniwi  in  tlmver,  Ivy 
very  luxuriant;  AalmjMia  Walltubii,  with  large  abowy 
flowers;  Ce)>liitlotaxuii  Fortuiiei,  lurft:«  healthy  pluut; 
Ce«tnim  uaulillorum  and  nocturrium,  also  g'luil ;  HibiKvu*, 
Althii-M,  MtiliaiitliiiN  major,  loehromu  Uibulusa  were  among 
the  plants  moat  eonBpi<:iiou8  here.  Among  trees  there  were 
Piatilownia  aud  Melu  Azedamch  in  Hower,  imineti««  and 
inoKt  tH'nulifiiL  One  ma[;uilicent  tiw  more  e»])i'cia]Iy 
«lni<;k  my  attention ;  it  wan  laln'Ucd  ProHiipis  lli-xuoaa. 
This  tree  was  at  first  ({'""■^■^  li't^  the  Carouba,  but  it  wu 
larger,  more  majestic,  ivilh  liner  leaves.  I  have  never  MM) 
it  K-foro,  unb-«e  it  Iw  tlie  aumu  a*  the  I'rosopixSili^HBStnim 
met  with  at  Madrid. 

Ill  a  separate  garden  or  orchard  were  hundreds  of  busliy 
Orau>;e  trece,  witii  boles  one  or  two  I'cct  in  diameter, 
about  firtui-n  feet  hi<!h,  and  Ivnded  witJi  tHiit.  Tlierv  wan 
a  giove  ot  IjiHiDiitx,  witli  tlio  Iruit  ripe  and  nwi-i'lt-r  and 
better  Itiun  I  had  over  tasted  Iwf'ore.  This  orcburd  was 
protL-oted  by  walls,  like  the  garden,  and  abundantly  sup- 
plied with  water — irrigated  every  ton  <lays,  1  wiut  told ,  all 
Hummer,  It  apifvnrs  that  there  iire  in  Malt.-t  many  ganleiis 
and  fircliardH  like  thnie  abut  U|)  within  high  «alU,und  that 
it  is  in  these  tbe  Orange  trees  are  grown.  PrevtouK  to  ibis 
information  I  bad  wondered  from  wlK'niti  the  ()r.iMg«4  I'lir 
wbieli  Mtiitu  is  hd  i-ulebratcd  eame.  1  bad  ]>er:imbidaled 
the  i«laiid  ill  every  direction,  and  the  only  Urange  trees  X 
had  aeeii  wan  a  group  of  fivkly  repreeentatives  of  tli4 
Bpeciee  in  a  square  near  the  Cathedral  at  Valetta. 


: 


490 


MALTA. 


Tlie  iiIjov"  fact*  giv*  ihc  Vey  to  the  eliinitle  wiJ  Vi 
tiiliuii  ut'  Miiltu.  In  wiiiler  ami  spring  it  is  ravaged 
north  n'inds,  wbicli  blow  over  it  Ironi  every  norlliiTii  point 
of  llio  coniptu«,  just  ns  thvy  Mow  over  tl;«  smiill  inlttniin  of 
Ititi  (irmiin  A rcliiixtlugo.  From  it«  lownoss,  and  ihtf 
absence  of  nnounuiin  ridges  riinniDic  east  and  WLiit,  and 
^vin(f  protection  &t  tlieir  southern  Imisa,  it  ofTerK  nu  »hdt«c' 
to  vef;ct«tion  but  tlint  which  miin  comitrticts.  Thus,!' 
tree  ve^-lation  cmn  no  nioro  bold  il^  own  than  in  one 
our  Doitbeni  Hebrides,  and  it  is,  consequently,  all  but 
abKOnt.  Tlirt^u  winds,  i;ool  und  motft  when  from  the  norlli, 
check  vi-^rljitinn  in  winter  in  all  exponitd  silnutions, 
althoiijfh  the  night  temperature  is  higher  than  on  thu 
northern  Khures  of  lh«  Mrditcrraneun.  Giving  to  tliU 
fact,  the  frunerul  uiiprcit«vted  lloru  ^ivi'si  no  evidence  of  s 
more  southern  climate ;  at  the  same  time,  the  eummor  lieut 
being  mucli  |>reater,  it'artilicial  protection  U-  g<v<'n,  M  ut 
the  M-  Antonio  gardens,  the  subtrupiciil  v<.'<;(; tuition  uf  tbo 
more  nhullcriMl  regions  of  the  Mctiiinnuiwin  llvari»be«  with 
extrinio  und  iiniijiual  luxiirianec.  IVrhu{i«  the  uiottiler 
island  almoajihere  of  Malta  aUo  lends  to  encourage  vi 
tiition  ill  sheltered  spote. 

Thi!  ruina  in  winter  are  fretpient  and  abundant, c«[)eciall 
in  December,  January,  and  l-Vbruary — a  fact  which  impi 
that  they  cunic  with  noitb-euct  and  north-west  winds 
thoKC  winds  predominatL'  in  mid-winti-r  in  tlie  Mudi- 
teimneiin,  and  ultliuugli  dry  on  the  continent  become 
moist  in  cruHsin};  the  aeu.  In  summer  it  scarcely  rains  at 
all,  fo  lliat,  lis  there  are  no  rivers,  and  not  many  springs, 
t)i«  rain  bu!(  to  be  utorud  in  tanks  for  tummor  u««.  Dow, 
however,  is  .^id  to  fall  heavily  in  cummer,  aud  to  supply 
thtf  place  of  the  rain,  whieh  means  that  the  air  is  V«ry 
Iiioist  i-von  in  the  greatest  beat  of  summer.  This  is  always 
the  caKv  in  i>-hindp,  as  the  wind  must  come  over  wat«r 
— ^ws  or  liikc^whiclicver  way  it  blown,  aud  has  thiu 
imbibed  niui»tur«.  Tlieru  iire  great  storajfc  works  foi 
water  all  over  Valelta,  and  indeed  all  over  the  island.  I 
the  vicinity  of  Valetta  I  taw  an  army  of  workmen  np|: 
rently  dttiembo welling  a  etrcel.  Tln-y  had  madu  an 
immcute   excavation,   occupying    its    entire    len|{tk    and 


>«  IVII 

isler 


CLIMATE,    WINDS,    RAIN,  491 

breadth,  and  I  was  told  that  it  was  merely  one  of  these 
tanks  in  process  of  formation. 

Accordiag  to  Dr.  Davey,  quoted  hy  Dr.  Scoreshy  Jackson, 
the  maximum  and  minimum  for  1S33  at  Valctta  were : — 


HlB. 

Hu. 

Mln. 

Hu. 

January 

.    507 

W'6 

Jnly     .    . 

.    74- 

76- 

Ftbruary     . 

.    52- 

67- 

Angnst     .     . 

.    76- 

77- 

March    .    . 

.    53- 

ft8- 

September   . 

.    71- 

73- 

April .     .     . 

.    56- 

61- 

October    .     . 

.    66- 

70- 

May  .    .    . 

.    62- 

68- 

November 

.    59- 

&(• 

June  .     .     . 

.    73- 

73- 

December     , 

.    55- 

60- 

The  principiil  fact  conveyed  by  these  figures  is  the  one 
already  noticed  -.  the  greater  warmth  of  the  nighta  in 
winter  as  compared  with  the  night  temperature  on  the 
north  shore  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  difference  in  winter 
at  Malta  appears  to  be  seldom  more  than  live  or  six  degrees, 
whereas  at  Mentone  it  is  nsiially  from  eight  to  ten, 
nnd  on  the  Upper  Nile,  in  latitude  ii"  to  25°,  acc"rding  to 
Dr.  Dulrjmjile,  it  is  from  twenty  to  thirty  I  This  latter 
tact  shows  the  great  difftrence  between  continental  and 
insular,  or  maritime  regions.  In  the  summer,  us  in  the 
Mediterranean  basin  generally,  the  difference  between  night 
minimum  and  diiy  maximum  is  only  one  or  two  degrees. 

I  was  about  a  wet-k  at  Malta,  and,  alter  a  minute  survey 
of  the  island,  and  of  its  vegetntioii,  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  presented  none  of  the  conditions  of  shelter  and 
protection  from  north  winds  that  I  am  in  the  habit  of 
eonsidering  essential  to  n  winter  sauitorium  in  the  Medi- 
terranean. Moreover  Valetta,  where  all  strangers  reside, 
is  a  lar;;e  town,  with  a  large  garrison,  and  presents  all  the 
usual  diseases,  zymotic  and  other  of  large  towns.  Fever 
of  a  low  tyjihoid  form  is  common.  Such  being  the  case, 
notwith-^taniling  the  great  social  advantages  it  presents, 
its  English  comforts  and  appliances  of  every  kind,  I  cannot 
place  Alalta  in  the  list  ot  resorts  for  real  and  serioua 
invalidism.  For  those  who  are  only  ailing,  without  In'ing 
riinlly  ill,  liku  Corfu,  it  may  prove  a  pleasant  change, 
benchcial  to  the  mind  and  to  tlie  yemral  health, 

I  have  dcscrilicd  Malta  without  alluding  to  the  Knightii 
of  St.  John.  To  do  so  is  all  but  sacrilege,  for  their  memory 
pervades  every  foot  of  ground  j  but  want  of  space  must  be 
my  excuse. 


PART  TIT. 

TB£  SOUTH  SHORES  OP  THE  MEDIIERRANBAN. 


CHAFTKIt   XV. 

AUIIERS  AND  ALOBRM. 
AtArxtH   \SD   nioEftii — Tint  »e\   viiTAue — alaiku — thb    ixpBHt- 

MRKTAI.  0*III1K>  TIIK    Tlllf?l»T    U0K±6THKT R ABVH*  —  «1IIT 

HAPuuui» — uuiuii — TiiK   I  iiirfA  oniior — uiuikah — tknikt'BI^ 
H«D— THE   cBD»a   roKKiiT— Tui  DKitmiT — Tii«  \allsi   or    tu 

Gill!  Urr— OltLE  AX*  VIIXE — OUB — DKfAUTUKJL 

"  From  Grwnbtnd'a  icy  mouiilaiuii, 

From  tiiiliu'a  onral  rtraiiil, 
Whorv  AI'rio'K  siitinj  fuuiitaiaa 

KoH  Anifti  Uinr  ^nldm  Mttct: 
Frum  ui»ay  uu  «n<!]eiit  rivtv, 

Froia  Diiinr  n  I'uliiiy  pWD, 
Tber  Citll  UH  tu  dvlir^r 

Tdoir  land  from  Ettot's  ohhin."    Bikiiop  Hr.auu 

Os  tlieaftenioon  of  April  tlie  lath,  lSfi9, 1  left  Marspillw, 

at  five  o'clock,  on  bonrd  a  lint'  bcr-w  lilcniniT  lji'loiij^in;r  W 

tliL-    M<'K*iif{cri««    lin|)t'riiilfK,    Imiincl    for    Al^irtH.     Tliti 

wcatlii-r  wn»  very  fiiu-,  Lliu  huh  »liiiiin^  int«n««ly  in  a  cleur 

bliio  sby,  n  li(;ht  « in<I  blowing  from  llic  land,  tl»  UiromuUf 

hijlh,  and  tli«  wii  calm.    Wo  (glided  fieDtly  oiit  of  Lii  Jnliotlie 

harlfOur,  Mid  [laxl  tlic  Oifctuini  d'Uf,  with  all  tUf  {Mm-ieuserfi 

on  dick,  as  if  intent  on  a   ptouiure  (rxeursiou.     Many  were 

^]ookin>;  liiidly  on  tho  land  (rradnnUy  n-cedin^,  thinking  of 

deur  oncH  hfl  lidniid,  wliiUt  nthera  eeraaod  to  Kcitu  tho 

horizon  jov«iiilyi  thc-ir  lliniiglitii  wen  evidently  occupied 

<  by  the  aiilK-ipation  of  huppy  mmttnga.    So  it  ia  in  life ;  wu 

lam  ever  parting,  ever  mtvtin;;,  eoirowfiil  or  joyotiK,  until 

|!it  laMt  wv  part  to  mcvt  no  moni  on  this  Hidu  of  the  urrave. 

The  «veiiinii  wun  n  |ilvyiiint  one  1o  nil,  or  nciirly  ult ;  lonff 

licfore  niKlitfall  we  ivere  oul  of  si[;)it  of  Urn),  und  we  watclreil 

tho  sun  go  down  into  bis  wat«ry  ouuch  on  the  wcvlvro 


A 


■» 


ii 


UAJORCA  AND  UINORCA— «EA-SICENESS.     493 

horizon  in  great  glory.  Then  we  retired  to  our  comrortable 
cabins,  and  moat  of  us  foundj  in  balmy  sleep,  oblivion  of 
tbe  capricious  sea  that  bore  ub  on  her  bosom.  The  next 
morning  there  was  very  perceptible  motion,  dressing  waa 
troublesome,  and  on  going  on  deck  I  found  that  the  sea 
had  become  ^ather  frolicsome,  the  ship  rather  lively,  and 
that  the  sky  was  covered  with  lead -co  Ion  red,  water-laden 
clouds  hurrying  up  in  serried  battalions  from  the  south- 
west to  fight  the  sunny  north-east  breeze  tliat  had  wafted 
us  so  far.  About  midday  we  reached  the  friendly  shelter  of 
Majorca,  and  paeecd  between  that  island  and  Minorca, 
Majorca  we  did  not  even  see,  but  we  skirted  the  shores  of 
Minorca  for  a  couple  of  hours,  near  enough  to  scan  the 
features  of  the  country,  and  to  examine,  from  afar,  several 
villages  and  towns.  The  shore  appeared  to  be  bounded 
by  high  cliffs,  precipitous  in  some  places,  and  the  land- 
scape was  all  but  entirely  denuded  of  trees,  as  is  the  case 
with  the  mother  country,  Spain.  When  we  advanced 
beyond  the  shelter  wliich  the  large  island  of  Majorca  affords 
from  tiie  south-west  we  got  into  a  regular  giile,  with  a  very 
heavy  sea.  Our  vessel  commenced  to  plunge  and  ndl  fear- 
fully, nt  one  and  the  sume  time,  and  I  succumbed,  as  did 
niueteen-twcntietbs  of  my  companions.  We  took  to  our 
beds  forthwith,  and  remained  in  the  usual  agonies  of  sea- 
sichnefis  until  our  arrival  at  Algiers  the  next  day.  I  subse- 
queutly  learnt  that  during  about  ei;;:ht  mouths  of  tbe  year — 
from  September  to  May — the  passage  between  Marseilles 
and  Algeria  <s  generally  of  this  character.  Even  when  line 
in  tlie  north  part  of  the  Mediterraneun,  there  is  generally  a 
giile  and  a  heavy  sea  in  the  south  ;  and  if  fine  on  the  African 
shores,  there  is  generally  a  gale  in  the  Gulf  of  Lyons. 

Whilst  enduring  all  the  misery  iif  scasiekneRs  I  tried  to 
analyse  my  own  sensations,  and  to  find  why  it  was  that  I 
was  suff>!i'ing.  The  most  approved  theory  Is  that  sea-sick- 
ness is  a  nervous  affection,  connected  with  the  brain,  and 
with  the  ever-changing  position  of  surrounding  objects, 
relatively  to  the  body  and  vision.  I  feel  convinced,  how- 
ever, that  such  is  not  the  sole  cause,  from  my  own  personal 
experience.  I  have  no  fear  whatever  of  tbe  sea.  Unless 
actually  ill,  I  delight  in  being  on  it,  however  rough,  ia  any 


ALGIintS   AND   ALOERIA. 


wuy — Bwimniing,  in  n  bi>iit,  n  ftvumor,  a  vacht,  nr  a  sailin? 
vi«sel.  If  Dol  very  ioii)|;h,  I  urn  quite  liapjiy  iiitil  wi-ll,  und 
cnn  oitt  ravenously.  Vet  sonielimm;,  whvii  the  motion  is 
Very  gri-nt,  wpcoially  when  it  i#  b  crcow  motiun,  iiucb  as  a 
combination  of  nlunE^ini;  und  deep  rolling,  a§  on  this  ikob> 
Kton,  I  bwome  dexpL-ntely  ill,  throwing  up  liu^^  i)ujintittL'S : 
of  111.'.  What  lius  Uic  ticTvouM  splem,  or  cliani^t-  ol  [losi- 
tion,  to  do  with  itm-h  niclcneta  in  one  who,  like  mysell*,  on 
luiid  fei'ld  no  inconvenieiii>e  whatever  Trum  any  kind  of 
nintion  or  gynilion  ?  Whilst  lyin(»  on  my  buck  in  thei 
cabin,  cruHstvayit  to  the  xhjp,  which  rolled  until  twenty 
timet)  ill  the  minute  the  port-hole  window  wns  muny  Ti-et 
Wni-iith  the  *vu,  I  wiitvhcd  the  water  in  the  dennlen  an<| 
bnsins.  Au  we  rolled  the  water  rolled  too,  Bw:u>biu)^  mientjy 
Ircim  side  to  side,  and  1  felt  thst  my  internal  economy  was 
doin^;  the  name.  At  one  moment  nil  the  niovuihie  contents 
of  the  body,  li(|tiicl  mid  Noliii,  wcvc  tlirown  one  wuy,  to- 
wavds  the  fi-ol,  as  it  were ;  ihu  next  they  were  thrown  with 
violence  upwards  ami  on  the  diajibraj;m,  on  the  liver,  lliia 
latti-r  ort;an  is  so  imprisoned  under  the  ribs,  do  bound  tlnit 
it  cannot  (;et  out  of  the  way.  TickU^J,  pounded  in  this 
manner,  it  i^ts  an^ry,  excited,  stimuUted,  \ioun  out  bile 
into  the  interlines  and  stoma(.-li,  wiiieb  ou(;ht  never  to 
receive  it,  escei^t  duriofr  tlu^  pi-ocitw  of  dij^iwtion,  and  this 
occasions  hiekm-Kii  anil  voinitini^.  Thi»  meehanieul  theory 
would  exi'lain  the  rvnt  etlicucy  of  pur;:ativee  tatcL'u  a  day  or 
two  before  stjirlinj;,  whieh  clear  the  liver  of  bile,  of  a  ban- 
da^,  whieh  )>rotect»  it  from  being  thus  pounded,  of  habit, 
of  opiates,  anil  of  nerve  stimulants,  such  as  lea,  colfee,  wine, 
«ptrit«,  wliidi  ileaden  its  siiseeptihility,  and  induce  tt  to  l>«ur 
insult  and  aetunl  blowsi  without  recentment.  The  distur- 
bance of  the  ciroiilation  muit  aUo  be  cuhsidered. 

I  believe  that  I  have  really  diseorered  the  means  of 
uvuiilint;  sea-i^iekneKS  entirely  tn  many  cntcf,  not  in  all,  in 
short  juissu^eH,  und  of  pretiunii§;  for  long  ]<ass<kg«!*.  lite 
stomach  should  bu  nbsultitely  empty  befuie  ^inj;  on  board, 
but  1o  avoid  exhaunlion  a  (;ood  meal  should  be  taken  three, 
four,  or  live  hoiira  before,  aceordin;;  to  the  niilure  of  tJie 
food,  ileal  requires  four,  in  some  live,  hours  fni'  oumplvte 
di);e«tion.  Tlien,  one  or  two  bouis  before  embarkinif,  sam« 
very  Klroug  colTee,  lea,  or  Kpiritii  and  water,  should  be  tnlcm. 


PREVBXTIOH  OF  SBA-SICRNESS^ALCTEim.    495 

vithout  mtlk  or  oilier  food.  Thn  is  to  toniry  tlie  iienrous 
pystcm,  an*!  y«t  to  sfciin-  <'m)>tincs»  of  Uic  Flomscl),  ftuu\« 
Leiti^  uitially  iilisorbeU  in  Ichk  thnn  tin  liour.  Oncc^  on 
board,  r^j)ose  •■hnold  be  enjoined,  the  recumbent  [lositioii 
isbcflt,  nnd  iiolhin^  whatever,  aol id  or  niii<l,»liniild  Ik- taken 
Jor  twi'lvf  hours  or  more,  even  then  very  litlis.  On  tliio 
8j-ntem  food  and  the  medicinal  stimolant  are  taken  6r/'ore  the 
etomHch  is  ouposed  lo  sympatlietic  irritatfni),  and  Die  <^neral 
economy  nnd  tlie  Dftrvom  tiyttem  are  thereby  invigorutcd. 
A^  there  is  nothinji  left  in  the  Btomnch,  or  pven  to  it  to 
Ot«iTt,  i(  remains  iiitiescciit  under  ditRcuUy.  The  reason 
thut  mvdirimii  (>tveii  in  nii^knew  do  do  ^od  in  thai  they 
are  not  absorbed.  Once  even  naiieca commences  the  »Uimndi 
refuses  to  alwiorb  liquids  or  to  di^twt  solids,  and  the  more 
there  U  in  it  the  wor*c  it  belmvoi.  Tlio  Ixsi.  stimulatit  in 
my  experienoe  ia  very  atrong  l>l*ok  ooffee.  Soorei  and 
ecore«  of  my  tVJcnds  and  patients  hare  escaped  sea-sickness 
in  iihort  (uiwuif^cs  by  obikcrving  thene  rule*,  nnd  havu 
dimini«h«d  suflkTini;  in  longer  onea, 

Altout  nine  o'clock  the  second  morninjj  the  martyrs 
dovrnntairs  were  apprised  that  Mount  Alln«  was  ia  view. 
The  temptation  uus  too  »trong  to  be  withstood,  ho  I  crawled 
up,  inure  dead  than  nlive,  to  |^  the  firet  look  of  "  Afrie'v 
sunny  muiintaini'."  Bnt  X  was  amply  rewarded  lor  tJiG 
elfiirt.  Fur  wfT  on  the  southern  horixim  a  noble  ninjn  of 
niount-titiii  loomed  on  the  aky,  half  clothed  in  dentw  clotub. 
]t  wiia  iMotml  Atlas,  the  Fattier  of  Geof^apby,  the  auo  of 
Jupiter  fllid  CIvmcne,  the  renowned  upholder  of  the  world 
of  the  aiicienlM.  There  wuh  notbiitff  HDUthrrti,  however, 
about  the  wvne.  Rain  was  genily  fullin};,  the  hcJiveii* 
were  covered  with  dense  black  clouds,  the  wind  wbiHtled 
umon<>  the  riinring,  and  the  steamer  mailly  eareeml  in  half 
B  doKen  wajrti  ut  onee.  We  mij^ht  have  l>eeii  outaidc  tJiu 
I^le  of  Skye,  in  view  of  the  Cuehullin  mountnins,  robed  in 
dense  black  cloud.  At  midday  «-e  enter«d  the  port  of 
Alters,  harine  Ktcained  four  hundre<l  mil«i  in  forty-lhreo 
hours,  which  is  considered  a  very  i;ood  paiuutve. 

The  jiort  of  Algicnt  U  c»niniodii)UH  and  |i"od,  forioed  by 
two  juttieit,  the  one  wc-eteni,  the  other  eastern,  liuth  oon- 
strui-'lcd  in  former  days  by  Christian  slarcs,  and  extendiNl 
and  pcrlcettid  by  the  French.     For  centuritw  thousand*  of 


4»6 


ALGIERS  AND  ALGERIA. 


X!uni|i««n9  hnvo  pined  awny  their  lives  auder  Africa's ' 
jnf;  611D  to  build  the  Horks  tlint  prutvct  thin  port,  Hov 
many  on  ncliing  hciirt  Imi'  uiitfri'd,  us  we  wvrfl  doing,  thoir 
evt'ii  rivtitM]  on  thin  southern  coosl,  deitiiied  mereljr  to  add 
a  few  stones  to  thtwe  pien,  and  thi^n  to  Fickcn  and  dio 
undiT  tho  tiuh  of  slavery,  far  uwuy  from  Ijimily,  from  homa^ 
from  country. 

1  wait  forlanate  enough  to  find  aeoomtnodation  nt  tho 
Hfito!  d'Oricnt^ — the  l«st,  indeml  I  K-liovf  the  nn]y  good 
hotel  »t  Atgiirrs — whvtc  I  inH  wiUi  all  the  coinrorls  nnd 
elt^Kances  of  Paris  or  Iioiidoii.  'l^me  Leiu;;  precious,  I  at 
once  cnitimencpd  my  Wnl  stndics  acourdiog  to  a  plan 
previously  arntiged.     This  plun  compriHed: — 

1.  The  litirvey  of  Ai({ii?rs  and  of  ils  vicinity. 

2.  A  journey  to  Port  Napoleon,  a  military  f-latinn 
in  Ihtt  centre  of  the  mountains  of  ruccnlly-aubdue)!  Kaliyli 
to  overawe  the  mounlainecn. 

S,  An  excursion  due  south,  by  Blidah  and  Miliannh, 
the  d»orl  of  Sahara,  and  to  tho  great  Ci-dar  forest 
Teni,'t-.-l-Hft<t. 

4.  A  journey   alonir   the   valloy    of    the    ChelifT,  fr 
Milianah  to  OrWansville  and  Oran. 

T1iii>  pinii  WHS  earned  out,  and  I  vhnll  follow  il 
detcriiiiug  my  Algerine  experiences. 


THE  cm  OP  aloixus  axd  m  viciNrrr. 

Mo«t  oi'  the  viewM  i>f  Algicm  that  I  have  noen  are  m< 
artifilic  sketches,  and  give  a  very  poetieal,  but  very  eironeo 
idea  "f  the  Mooriifh  eily.     The  photograph  here  rejtrodi 
is  otrictly  true  to  nature. 

Algiers,  situated  in  latitude  86'  8',  oocupieH  the  wpf>l«ra 
exti'i'inity,  or  horn,  of  »  fiue  hay  ten  miieti  in  circuit,  on 
the  Miuih  shore  of  the  Mediterranean,  the  northern  nhore 
of  the  continent  of  Africa,  and  looks  diroi^tly  norlliunrds. 
The  hay  is  formed  by  a  range  of  low  hdls,  the  Sidi*>), 
which  (lillow  the  wt«lvru  portion  of  ils  circuit,  expiiiug  at 
it«  eastern  estTeinity,  but  ooutinuing  their  cou»e  along 
the  eeoshore  for  many  miles  lo  the  west  of  Al;;iers,  beyond 
the  wenteru   extremity  of  tiiu  bay.     Seen   from   the  sea^ 


ALGIEB8  FROM  TIIB  SEA. 


497 


Al(;iuTR  lovka  like  it  while  lrianf{ular  elieet,  with  iIb 
OH  the  shore,  \U  vertex  oit  tbv  suniDiit  of  lh«  hill.  Tho 
cnilky  nliiteness  of  the  town  in  owing  to  the  liousca  havin); 
flat  roofs,  which  do  uot  appear,  and  to  their  H-a1ls  hein;; 
whitewuHhed. 

Id  the  centre  of  the  bay,  to  tlie  eawt  of  Ali^era,  the  vill^ 
of  ^IiiKtnpha  Stipenor  ami  Iiiforior,  the  health  and  plcasuraJ 
■uhiithn  i>t'  Al>pcr«,  ciimh  up  liiu  El<i)>oa  of  the  S:ihv),  whiliit,' 
at  the  eaateru  angle,  the  expirini;  mid  rceeiliii^j;  Siihel  allows 
the  fur  off  Bummits  of   the  Jurjura   mountains  to  appear 
oil  tlic  liorijEOn.    Thuso   mountjiiiifl,  which  constitute  the 


cni  or  *I*i:m-    ...  i:    .^i.   .   ;:. 

CMtcrn  extremity  of  the  first  chain  of  the  Atlaa,  rise  to 
a  height  of  Beveti  thousand  feet,  are  covered  with  rhow  ia  i 
njtiter,  and  although  sixty   mileH  dixtuiit,  are  gi'iiemlly  ia 
view    from  Algiera,   lending  euchaiitment  to  tlio  eastern 
horiton. 

On  tlie  \tmi  siile  of  the  port,  at  the  hn«e  of  the  town,  U 
a  line  <|nay,  bonnded  by  a  series  of  stone  arcades  which 
eoiiluin   warehouses  and    support  a  oohle  torraoe  or  boa- 
Icvard    (soo   woodcut),    on   which,   froiitini;   the  sea,   or 
built  the  Government  House,  tho  Usnk,  tho  J16U)1  d'Orient 

K   X 


408 


ALGIERS  AKD  ALOEBIA. 


B&d  other  public  and  private  bnilditifrs.  Tliis  qniy  and 
promcDade  tvrracc  wcic  built  by  Sir  8.  M.  Pi-lo.  Bvbind 
vpruiidn  thv  town,  rifini*  |rrii(ituil]y  to  tlie  Kn-tbuh  or  Dey'* 
palsoe,  wliicli  crowns  itie  whole.  The  lower  part,  that  in 
contact  with  the  ]iromi'iiii<!i.-,  the  |Kirt,  and  the  sea,  Is  orcii- 
picil  by  A  Parifiiiin-likc  k(|iiiiix',  (hu  Phux  titi  (iodvenK-mciit, 
pbntvd  in  iinrtx  with  Palms  and  ]tamboos  (see  wooden)), 
by  French  elreete  with  nrcadce,  like  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  hikI 
by  French  many-storied,  mnny-windowcdhouncf^  Uoomwai 
miidn  for  tht»e  modern  buililingit  by  the  destruction  of  a 
part  of  the  old  city.  Above  modem  Alters  is  the  remainder 
of  the  old  town,  still  one  mius  of  oriental  etrerts  and 
dwelling,  a  southern  human  hive,  still  exclusively  inlinbited 
by  true  Alyerinee. 

AlthonKh  wc  came  into  port  with  a  strong  Porth> 
westerly  breeze  and  a  ni^in>;  Kca  (April  )5th),  w«  found 
lovely  weather  on  land.  The  air  was  pleasantly  warm, 
the  sun  gloriouslv  bright,  its  ardour  tempered  by  a  slight 
white  haze  in  tlie  sky.  The  distant  Jurjura  mountains, 
enow  and  eloud-cajiped,  gliiitk^ncd  on  the  e:iEtern  horizon, 
and  the  ancient  pirate  city  lay  before  ns  in  all  its  strange- 
ness, formerly  a  whitened  sepniohre,  now  a  stronghold  of 
a  civilized  and  Christian  nation.  Al^cr  a  both,  a  little 
rcfn-^hment  in  the  eh-gnnt,  cool  dining-room  of  the  Hotel 
d'Oric-nl,  the  tirst  for  twu  days  and  nights,  and  the  enjoy- 
ment of  a  few  hours  of  land  ''c<]ijilibriuro,"  my  thougfata 
turned  to  tht-  eountry  I  had  come  to  we,  I  thcrefora 
«eeuic-d  the  services  of  Mahnioiid,  the  intelligent  Arab  il 
terpreter  of  the  hotel,  mid  sallied  forth. 

The  firvt  y:lnnco  at  the  motley  afseniblugo  that  crowcl 
the  Place  du  Oouvernemeot  revealed  a  southern  land.  Afrit 
On  all  aides  were  Arabs  and  Kabyle  mountaineers,  Negix)e« 
and  Jews  in  oriental  costume,  mingled  with  En 
■oldicrs  and  civilians.  ^ 

One  of  the  etranseet  costumes  was  that  of  the  Arab 
women.  The  face  hall-veiled  with  the  yosbmAk,  so  that  the 
eyes  only  apjieiired,  wiapjicd  in  while,  thvy  Deemed  walk- 
ing bundles  of  muslta  or  shrouded  ghosts.  All  the 
men,  except  the  Jew»,  wore  nooUeu  boumous,  or  clonlis. 
like  the  opera  cloaks  of  Kuropeau   ladies,  witli  the  hooa 


VETLED  ARAB  WOMAN. 


499 


generally  dmwn  over  the  head.  Some  had  on  two  or  even 
three  of  these  boiimotis,  one  over  tlio  other,  in  \-ariou)i 
degrees  of  vctuotj'  a  ml  dilapidatioii.  The  lower-clasB 
Arab*,  Kabvles,  nod  Ne^oes,  never  take  them  off,  day  or 
jht,  merely  ad<lini;  a  ecr-uiii]  or  third  when  the  finrt  or 
le  eei^nd  U  too  old  and  nigged  to  kei'p  out  the  rain  and 
e  cold.  Thus  they  become  in  time  mere  bnndles  of 
'filthy  ra^  of  the  most  grotesque  cbtiracter,  of  which  the 
vogTftving  only   given   a   fitint    idea.     Some   of    the  old 


TUIXD   ABAD    VOVAS. 


Ixiggore  nnd  nrti^aiiB  evidently  bear  on  their  bncke  the 
remains  of  the  wanlroho  of  Ihvir  I'ulhera,  aiid  of  their  own 
early  youth.  These  rugs  are  tied  and  sewn  together  in 
every  conceivnblc  manner ;  indeed,  it  w  only  n  wonder  that 
th»-  hold  together. 

Many  of  the  town  Arabs  wear  a  shirt  or  a  linen  tonie, 
fastened  at  the  waixt  by  a  ginlle,  under  the  bonrnoue,  hut 
country  Arabii,  the  Kabylv*,  and  Ivegroe*,  seem  geiienilly 

K  K  2 


k 


500 


ALOIBBS  AND   AUiKUIA. 


to  wi'ar  the  woolleu  bouruouB  only,  with  or  without  ■■ 
noolkii  tunic  insitle.  'Die  Arabs  nwittiy  liave small  t*irlwnB, 
but  u'itb  the  Kahylcs  ihe  hair  is  bound  by  »  tvpt;  lill«t 
wliich  encircles  tho  hcod.  UuUi  races  RfDcmlly  have  rojw 
enndnls  ou  tlic  feet. 


OLD  iKAD  KBXDICAVT. 


The  Negroes  are  Dtimerous,  and  very  cluirn(:t4:ri6ti<: 
an  African  land,  'llicy  arc  of  all  ages,  from  frisky,  m< 
little  cbildren  to  decrt-iiit  old  men,  whoee  skins  become 
powden,',  of  a  creyisb  wbite,  with  age,  Tiiey  arc  the 
labuuvers  of  the  town,  the  carriers  of  burdens,  tJie  working 
pariahs.  Mo»t  of  tlicm  oomc  from  far-otf  Timbuotoo, 
i'rmii  the  suulhcrn  regions  of  the  desert  of  Sahara.  They 
have  crOKsod  its  «indy  |iliiiiis  by  n  iliur  or  fiv«  months' 
journey,  in  order  to  reach  Al|;enii,  and  will  probably  neV' 


JEWS — AKAU8. 


901 


»o  their  native  countrj  AgAin.     Somo  liaro  Wn  l>oni  in 
the  country.  Mid  know  no  nlher,  tliey  are  true  Algcrinw. 

The  Jewii  are  also  numeroiiB  at  AIsutb.  They  are  mid 
to  be  principally  d^scGndnl  from  thu  Jews  of  Spain,  who 
when  €xpelM  in  the  itixtccnth  ocntury  took  rcfugi,!  in  the 
Mooriah  or  Bnrbcresque  utAtea  of  Northern  Africa.  Ouriit  g 
tin?  ijominion  of  the  Tarke,  ilthongh  they  were  constitntly 
perecciited  and  ill  used,  th«ir  industry  and  talent  fur  biiai- 


ou>  XESito  MLuaAirt. 


P  tUf  enRl)l«d  them  to  make  themselves  indispeiuibl* 
~  CiQ  ni^d  their  own.  Since  the  ouvupntion  of  th«  I^ench^ 
thank*  to  the  complete  equality  iind  freedom  which  the 
French  laws  accord,  they  hare  greatJy  incrcued  in  pro»> 
pcrity,  and  are  said  now  to  own  tiie  greater  part  of  tlie 
real  property  of  Aly:ier*,  and  of  the  Algcrioe  towns.  Th«y 
arc  tiio  tradu«iie«pU,  the  men  of  biutinc-w,  the  finoncien  of 


AIX^ISBS  AMD  ALOEKU. 


tlic  towns,  and  n-iUi  their  scmi-Turki«li  garb,  and  tbetr 
iitrongly>murki.Nl  Juwi»li  I'efttuKB,  luro)  a  Btriking  elemeaE 
in  the  population. 

The  Arabs  are  a  dnrk- skinned,  d&rk>haircd,  <Iarki!yed 
race.  Tiiey  arc  numeruus,  and  rcpro«ent  the  t«wn  de 
Bcendantt  oftliu  Arubian  conqiieiurs  q{  tonner  days,  Tbe 
Domadio  Arabs  who  inhabit  the  plains  and  some  of  tho 
mountains  of  Algeria,  and  tlii;  Aralj  tril>oM  of  the  dcaert  of 
SaLotu,  merely  conw  to  Algiers  lur  business  or  pleasure. 


jtaiB  liiKi.. 

Some  of  Uic  best  ntitiv«  lamiliea  in  tlie  city  aro  of 
descent.  The  Arab  aheilcs,  oliiefs  of  tribes,  are  often  very 
line  men  with  a  cominandio^  presence,  and  sumu  of  their 
wunu-u  are  «aid  to  be  very  beautiful.  The  Areb  ^irl, 
wlioee  portrait  is  reproduced,  may  be  considered  typical. 
She  oLmtIjt  Mungs  to  tlio  higher  elau  of  iVrab  society. 


KABYLES — TCRK8. 


503 


kPBAratia  Jress  in  the  bournous,  l>ut  tlie  bettor  olaMCs 
Dive  li;ind!ioinR  tonics  underaejith,  witti  Btookings  and 
onihmviitnl  HniidnlH  or  ehotm. 

The  KiibyIcK  ure  tho  inliut'ititntu  of  the  Jiirjiirn  moun* 
taina  or  Kusteru  Atlas,  seen  from  Aiyiera.  Tliey  are  hardy 
mountaineere,  Ibiid  of  G;;htiiitr,  and  had  miiintaiDod  their 
iiul«pend«ticc  throughout  thu  viiriou*  uci;u|Hitii>ii«  of  Al^-ria 
^^  by  suecesffive  mces.  Tliey  have  only  leceiitly  been  nuhdutid 
^H  by  the  French,  and  are  nier«ly  retained  in  eubjet-tion  by 
^V  force  of  arms.  They  aru  a  hard -working,  a«  vreli  as  a 
hard'tighting  race,  and  inaiiy  of  them  now  come  to  Algiers 
to  work  and  K^in  money  as  labourers,  or  in  any  capacity. 
.  SoniL-  arc  dnrk -skinned,  whilst  others  are  (jtiite  Tuir,  Tliey 
ere  cvideutly  a  mixed  riicc  descended  from  wavej<  of  human 
beings  driven  froni  the  plains  t»  the  mountains  by  each 
■ueoessive  invasion  of  the  northern  shores  of  Africa  by 
Bomau,  Vandals,  Arabo,  iind  Turks.  Tliuir  witlidrawal  to 
the  faetiieases  of  Mount  Atlas  reproduoei  in  Africa  the 
history  of  the  Celts  in  Europe,  that  of  the  Corsicans  in 
Consica.     Like  all  these  mountain  races  the  Knbyles  have 

tprcwrved  a  wpiritof  all  but  indumilitbic  independence,  and 
the/  misted  the  authority  of  ll>e  Krcncli  in  the  defence  uf 
tlieir  much-valued  liberty  tmtil  within  the  last  few  year«. 
Formerly,  wlieii  Algiers  ivas  a  iictit  of  pirut«x,  the  Turks 
formed  no  doubt  the  prominent  leature,  for  they  were  the 
dominaut  race.  But  tliey  huve  ail  departed,  and  their 
city  "knows  them  no  more."     They  oould  not  brook  the 

firOKCnce  of  the  abhorred  Oiaours  where  they  had  been 
urds  and  masters  j  so  they  abandoned  Algienf  and  sellled 
in  Tunis,  Syria,  and  ConAtantiuople,  fur  from  the  Mone  of 
their  own  and  their  fathers'  misdeeds. 

In  the  French  ]Kirt  of  Al;;iers  lhl^se  vonous  races  of 
mankind  are  minj^led  in  picturesque  oonfu>ion  witli 
llui'opeans^French,  Spaniards,  Maltusc.  But  once  Uio 
^B  modern  part  of  the  town  is  abandoned,  and  iho  steep 
^H  Burrow  streets  of  old  Algiers  are  entered,  the  native  race* 
^H  reign  supreme,  and  are  alone  met.  These  streets  are  very 
^P  siQ{;idar,  only  from  aix  to  ten  feet  wide ;  they  just  allow 
room  for  u  loaded  donkey  or  mnle  Ki  puaa  a  pedestrian,  and 
BO  noro.    The  houses  havt  uo  wiiidowsj  murely  »  blank 


AUiIER^  AND  ALOEBU. 


Willi  tu  Llie  street,  unlesf  tUer«  be  an  open  ehup,  wiUinot 
windowe,  si  tUo  Lafcmcnt.  Each  house  has  »  small  closed 
door,  which  WaiU  into  a  pn«ut(^  or  r<H>m  almllini^  on  a 
vqiuire  orntnil  c«urL^urd  or  garden.  A)l  tho  window*  in 
th«  tiouac  look  ou  this  cvnlral  court,  there  are  twM  in 
tlte  oat«r  walls,  so  that  the  txta  never  ifnpin;;«8  on  B 
window.     The(c  houxn  nrv  only  two  atoriw  hi{;h,  with  llat 


BiKLKr  AI  lUill  tJ^ 


Tooi*,  and  ill  Btimmer  an  awning  i»  spread  over  the  contral 
(.'ourt  from  lh«  rool':  ihuH  there  is  eliadc  and  freihnwa 
ever)'wberc.  This,  th«  orientjil  style  of  houE<>,  is  adopted 
all  over  southern  lipuin — at  Conlovn,  Vniviicia,  Sovillv,  and 
(a  much  mora  atUipt^'d  to  n  burning  Houthem  summi't  thun 
the  PariKiAn  houNua  of  many  iloiieH,  all  window,  o^en 
direolvd  full  south,  which  the  t'rencb  bk  buitdinj;  all  over 


I 


CAFli  MAURR — JKW  OOPFEK-RF.rJ.F.Et.  505 


eria.  There  are  ofti-n  lii-nmN  proji-eliiiK  nljove  h«i<l 
OHO  boate  to  lioiisp  in  Iliese  uarn-w  strt-ets,  and  woodea 
battrMBCs  from  one  Mtori-y  to  another,  or  Front  titc  street  to 
^the  Hide  of  the  honwn,  pn>p{>in[;  them  up,  owing,  no  ilgtiht, 
to  th«  w»lla  giving  way  From  old  affe.  Sometimee  the 
houses  communicatu  ovcrhvad,  and  the  etreot  pswiMw  under 
tUvm,  tind<-r  m  kind  of  arcndu  (sc«  wooik-nt). 

In  the  open  ahoia  on  fMit-li  sitie  sit  Arab,  Jewiflli,  or 
Ncgrci  tradesmen  or  men-tinnts,  cress* kgg«<),  smoking 
tlieir  pipes  iind'  waiting  For  customers.     In  thew  various 


■boM  is  sold  everjr  conoeivablc  kind  of  merclinniltte,  tli« 
higner  gmde  shops  being  kept  by  Xint  Arabs  and  Jewn,  th« 
lower,  F<ir  eatiiblee  eeptwially,  \>y  moKt  Fantafitiu  nej^roe*, 
men  and  women,  yonii);  or  old.  A  prominent  Feature  in 
there  old  Moorish  streets  or  lanes  is  thu  c<ilf<N!-ho»«c  orj 
"caf^  Maure,"  Mii^ulnnins  not  being  allotved  by  tbeii 
religion  to   take  spirituous   drinks,   Hem   to   salisFj-   llie 


u 


(M 


AIAIBIU   AND  AUIERU. 


eMvins  for  nerve  RtimnUnU  vrhicb  cliancterines  «t 
buBUBity  by  consiaiitly  iinbiljii)^  coflee.  Tliese 
sliopE  are  found  every  Tow  doori),  and  wldrcss  tliemnelvee  ' 
evciy  Turiol.y  of  ciniUimcr.  Tlin*  tlicre  lire  caHfet  for  ll 
Areita,  the  K»byli-f,  the  leva,  the  Negroes,  indeed  for 
every  nationality  and  for  every  B^ado  of  customers.  The 
cafe  is  a  mere  room,  entered  from  the  street  by  n  wido 
open  (luor  or  portiil.  Around  the  innidu  ix  a  tow  dirnn,  on 
which  the  eolffe  taktim  sit,  generally  erogs-les^ed,  drinking 
their  cotl'ee  and  gniolfin<;  either  toluiceo  or  the  "  hui»ch/'  a 
ComjionnJ  of  Indian  hemp  und  other  siilmlanccs,  whidh  U 
intended  to  gilunge  them  into  delioiou?  dreams.  At  the 
extremity  of  the  room  or  shop  is  tlu*  chatconl  funinoe  on 
whieh  the  coHVu  is  innde.  The  bttcr  is  goncruUy  served 
with  tiie  dreg*  in  tiny  cups,  holdiiii;  about  a  ninegtasafut, 
for  which  one  sou  is  charged.  I  aevcrsl  times  partook  of 
this  eolfee,  1)Ut  am  not  prepared  to  puss  any  grenl  encomium 
upon  it,  rather  the  roveniu. 

The  "  cafe  Muiire  "  iw  evidently  n  lonng*-,  a  eluh,  a  place 
of  reunion  for  the  natives.  In  the  evening  these  ooliee* 
houses  nrc  always  crammed,  nnd  I  fro<|uently  heard 
rnonotonoiiB  chanta  procecilin{r  from  them.  One  eveniii:; 
our  {{iiide,  Mnhmoiid,  a  moxt  ohlif>ii)^  m:ni,  look  us  to  n 
Knhylc  "eafi5"  rentiivnod  for  its  cultivation  of  tlie  muses, 
and  especially  of  Terpsichotc.  The  caf£  was  so  full  of 
Kubyleis  that  we  had  some  trouble  to  obtain  teutt,  and 
the  only  npuee  lell  was  a  {Huvnge  about  Ave  fe«t  wide 
hetweea  the  divans,  The  musieians  were  two  in  numlier, 
one  pliiyed  on  u  tamhourine,  tho  other  u  speetes  of 
Uageotet,  the  musie  being  a  monotonous  nnd  not  unhar- 
moniuuM  drimo.  The  daneers  were  volunteei's  from  the 
audience — tirstly,  a  yoiin<;  ni.in  of  twenty,  then  an  elderly 
man  of  tilly.  liolli  ituiiivil  in  the  same  vingtdar  way, 
not  *o  much  by  uiovin)>:  iheii-  k-et,  us  hy  attitudiui/.inj*, 
bending  the  body  first  one  way  tl»en  the  other,  and 
malting  all  kind*  of  contortions  tvilh  a  hand  kerchief  held 
in  both  hanib,  at  one  time  suopi-iidtid  over  their  heiidi>,  at 
another  brought  move  or  less  rapidly  ovit  their  shouiders, 
their  armi>,  their  huKt.  The  feel  ehulQed  ;;ently  at  tho 
same  time  ia  meaeuie  to  the  miuic,  but  eo  slowly  Uuit  i\ 


DANCINQ — KABYLES — DANCINO  OIBL. 


507 


tootc  ten  miiiiiUw  ta  get  over  ten  yanl»  of  *pacf.  Some* 
tiiiie§  tliey  aasamed  a  semUkueelin;;  position.  The  attempt 
to  ft«suine  tfracorul  attitudes  and  to  bond  the  body  intu  nil 
kitids  of  ulttii'Jiit  posturM  on  tlic  pnrt  of  liihiuireni  and 
draynieu  wan  nupremely  grotesque.  Yet  it  was  on  emblem 
of  coetern  life  nud  eastern  ways,  fur  euch  I  am  told  i« 
dancing  in  tii<!  ojist.  Tho  uicoaipAuyint;  woodcut  of  an 
Arab  dunuing  girl  in  evidently  the  mode)  my  Kjibyle 
dniicoi-a  had  in  view.  The  performance  over,  we  applauded 
vehemuiitly,  shook  hands  with  the  performers,  and  dntak 


R 


our  coffue.  After  fraternixing  for  an  hour  with  the  Kabylea, 
who  were  the  vwy  piuk  of  politeness,  wo  took  h-nvo  of 
tliem.  A  little  further  we  stopped  nt  an  Arab  ciil'u  where 
vocalization  was  thv  order  of  the  day.  Ilerv,  aUo,  the 
Anib«  w9Tt  sitting  oroiis-legg«d  un  a  low  divan,  round  a 
large  room  or  sliox)  opening  on  to  the  atreet>  smoking  and 


u 


508 


ALOIERa   AND  ALOERIA. 


drinking  eoGfee.  Botli  llio  miii>ii;  and  the  songs  cnndrirTp 
of  a  monotonout  chant,  in  which  the  voice  roae  and  Teli  a 
few  not«B  only.  The  souikIs  n«rc  not  devoid  of  mclodi 
and  it  is  ensy  to  coin]>rcUeiid  thnt  me\\  a  chant,  wiu 
words  that  int«rc»t  thu  liearere,  «unfl^  under  tlic  tent  if 
tUfi  desert  by  a  yuulhtul  and  fresh  voice,  would  oommi 
a  sympathetic  and  attentive  aitdienci>. 

The  Aral)  school  for  boy*  «triic)i  my  fancy  greatly. 
««nt  into  vevcra),  nnd  wua  greatly  pleased  to  §ee  the 
master,  ^nerully  an  old  man  with  a  white  beard,  sil  ting 
eroM-tc^ttd,  and  surrounded  by  a  Ewarm  of  pmtty  littlo 
bluclc-cyed  boyii  in  enittern  drtsii.  I'hcy  also  sat  crosa- 
legged,  with  elates  in  Ihcir  hands  covered  with  Aiabio 
characters,  repcntin;*  with  shrill  voices  tlio  verses  fram 
the  Koran  which  they  were  being  tiiutiht.  Wc  were  not 
admitted  into  the  girls'  soliools,  hut  I  saw  a  very  int«> 
resting  aseamljlage  of  Utile  Arab  girls  from  sii  to  twei»e 
yeiirs  of  ii^e  in  the  embroidery  workshop  of  Hadain 
Luei',  II  Frt'tifh  hidy,  Partly  from  philanthropic  mottvl 
she  tuuchca  young  Jewish  and  Arab  tprl*  the  art  of  cm 
broidery,  and  under  her  auspic(-!i  they  become  apt  scholars, 
as  was  evident  from  the  nuir.eroua  and  lovely  embroidered 
objects  of  Indies'  toilette  thiit  wore  shown  mt,  Many  of 
tlic  little  girl*  wvire  perfect  little  houriii. 

To  one  fresh  from  Europe,  who  has  never  seen 
eastern  eily,  there  is  a  ^reat  charm  in  trnuduring  through 
the  old  streets  of  Algiers,  We  fancy  wc  arc  in  the  Itagdu  ' 
or  the  Damascus  of  our  youth,  amidst  the  scones  of  tl 
Arabian  Nights  KntertaiDinenlti  which  afforded  ns,  ond 
npon  a  timu,  such  intense  enjoyment.  All  the  jmgoiint 
of  the  eastern  tales  rises  up  helbrv  us.  The  veiled  w-omcD 
are  tJie  sultan's  daughters,  the  old  men  in  Huwiug  robM 
am  viziers  or  mui^imann,  the  young  men  in  Arab  costume 
are  the  king's  sons  in  dingiiiM ! 

On  every  side  are  evidences  of  a  stra^g>^  soulltem  lat 
One  day  I  was  riveted  for  un  hour  by  the  tricks  of' 
Negro  conjuror,  oxhibiling  in  an  open  space,  and  sur 
rounilcd  tiy  a  crowd  of  laughing,  grinning,  opplaudin^ 
Arabs,  Kubylos,  Negroes,  the  tir^t  row  stjuulting  on  tJie 
ground,  the  second  stuniling.     He  was  a  eoal-bluck,  tall, 


r 


THE  XBGBO  CONJUROR— DERV 18 HE8. 


509 


liUie,  supple  young  fellow  of  three  or  four-aiid -twenty, 
DakctI  to  the  waiat,  witli  li^ht-tittin^  drawers  ouly  reaching 
halfway  down  th<;  lUiji^lii:.  lloiinil  liU  neck  he  wok  il  live 
snake  some  thrtM  fi^et  Umg  (ii  cululier],  with  wliieli  li6 
appeared  to  be  on  the  most  atleclionatc  terme  ;  il  was  his 
priiicipnl  plnytlnng.  He  coniitnQlly  hud  it  in  hi*  hnntU, 
Komolimes  twining  it  roitiul  liix  wui^t,  urmx,  or  tieck,  and 
wimelimes  holding  it  by  the  tail  and  extending  it  full 
lenirth  towards  tlto  crowd  as  ho  ambled  round  lii«  drcle, 
tlieri^tiy  incrvjuing  iUi  nreu,  u*  nil  drew  buck  in  dismny. 
He  tiilked  incetieuiitly,  laughing,  like  hi«  audience,  at  his 
own  conceits,  iind  was  ever  on  the  move.  His  n)Otioii» 
wore  so  rapid  and  so  gnicvftil  withsl,  that  he  seemed  more 
liko  a  wild  auimul  llian  a  man.  Hu  did  nmny  wonderful 
tbiuga  much  to  our  dclij^ht,  sudi  aa  breaking  hu^  flub 
stones,  proviou»ly  exuminvd  by  ns  aiid  found  without 
flaw,  by  bide  blowM  uf  the  hand.  Tliiit  feat  he  attributed 
clearly  not  to  strvujitli  or  knack,  but  to  a  series  of  moet 
grotesque  iucanutioiis  detivcrud  before  th»  blows  wttrt  < 
Btruek. 

One  evening  we  went  to  witness  tlie  rite-i  of  a  sect  of 
Arab   "derrishea,"  who  pretend  that  tbey  can,  as  holy- 
men,  cat  mid  drink  anything  however  noxious  to  human 
life  with  impunity.     Tliv  origin  uf  the  *cet  i»  Mid  to  be 
as  follows :— On  one  oooosion,  Maliomed,  pnrsued  by  his 
enumice,   wsh    reduced    to    the   last  extremity,  and   hi*. 
fiiUowura  complained  U>  him  that  they  had  nothing  to  eat.' 
On  this  he  reproached  them  for  their  want  of  luitlt,  and 
told  thorn  that  if  they  believed  they  would  rind  that  they 
oould   cut  anything,  stones,  glass,  scorpions,  and   deriv^J 
nourishment   therefrom.     They  tried  the  experiment  and 
found  the  prophet's  words  true,  so  they  founded  a  sect  to 
the  members  of  which  this   miruculotu  power  has  cv 
i>i lice  descended,  and  which  «till  flouriahe*. 

We  werv  shown  into  an  Arab  botise  in  one  of  the  bode 
sti'outs,  the  intnoal  coartyard  of  which  had  been  huilfc 
over  so  as  to  oon«titiite  a  Urge  room,  with  wide  arcades  < 
the  four  sides,  Iwth  on  the  ground  and  on  the 
Boor.  Tno  central  area  was  covered  with  carpet«,  and  on 
one  side  was  a  slightly  raised  divan,  on  which  four  Arab 


U 


510 


ALOIKBS  AND  AI/}KIUA. 


Dcn-i-ilie*  were  seated    «Tow*l«K^tI>     There  were   many 
otWr  Arabs,  some  forty  or  lilly,ia  other {wrte  of  Uie  room, 
moBtly  sittini;  croes-lrggcd.     At   *    given   lime   one   of 
tliotm  on  Die   <livnn,  who  seemed    the   diief,   took   up   a 
tamWut'ine,  which  hestiuck  gently.     The  other  three  did 
the  same,  nnd  then  they  ull  l>ot;on  n  monotonous  chnnt  iihB 
thrco  notes,  kicping  time  with  the  tAmbourines.     ^^^^341 
few  miiuiti'ii  the  tjunbourinea  were  given  to  on  attcndnnt  ^ 
to  warm  over  a  charcoal  fire.     GradiMlly  tbry  inrrrascd 
tbe  rapidity  of  the  vlinnt  and  mur^ic,  when  an  old   tniin 
Mlvaoeing  from  the  rtrowd,  and  kneeling  down  before  the 
divaui,  began  to  chant  in  nnison,  rockini-  backwards  and 
fonvnidiE.     One  by  one  several  othent  came  forward,  knelt 
down  and  Joined  in,  rocking  thenuelvea  to  and  fro  in  front 
of  the  divan,  and  chanting  bke  the  reat 

By  <)cgrees  they  bt-cnme  more  excited,  their  movemenfai 
■Kumcd  ft  more  rapid  eharac^ler,  and  tboir  featnrea  a 
wilderand  wilder  exijretwiou.  Tlien  began  the  perforraanee. 
A  red-hot  poker  was  brought,  and  the  old  roan  licked  it 
round  and  round,  over  and  over  again,  as  il'  it  hod  been 
flUgar-nmdy.  A  flnt  spade  of  iron  red-hot  was  now  pro- 
duced, and  he  repeatedly  stamped  upon  it  with  naked 
feet,  and  drew  it  over  the  palms  of  his  hnndx,  without 
apparent  eulfcriDg.  This  iniin  then  knelt  and  reBuned 
hi«  rapid  Iwekwiird  and  f(irH-ar<l  movement,  roaring  aloud 
to  tbe  monotonous  mu&io  until  he  fell  into  cpilcptiforin 
convulsions  and  was  c-nrricd  away.  Kin  neighbour  next 
preaeiited  himcelf,  and  thin  pointed  »>kewcrB  were  run 
through  both  checks  horizontally,  and  others  vertically, 
ao  iiM  to  ecw  up  his  mouth.  Blood  and  tsalivii  poured 
down  his  eheekn  wIuIkI  he  rvc^ommeneed  bis  Kwaying 
motions  in  front  of  the  divan,  the  rest  of  his  oom- 
panions,  ultcrin;;  siiort,  loud  grunts  or  groans  cueh  scoood 
or  two,  A  third  devotee  wan  given  hirgc  piecCH  of  glaM, 
which  ho  crushed  audibly  in  his  moutb  with  his  teeth, 
apparently  swallowing  the  ]>iecos.  Then  there  was  ■ 
generid  dtvtribution  of  the  thick  RcKhy  leave*  of  the 
Prickly- pear,  covered  with  hard  Kpines  half  an  inch  long. 
They  all  threw  tliomM'lvee  on  this  delicate  food  like  wila 
beaata,  biting  large  piuoot  olf  the  leaves,  tliorns  and  alt. 


DERVIStlBS  AKU  MOStjUBS. 


511 


tmi  criincliiTi|>  them  witti  npparont  dcli^lit.  We  were 
toll)  lh:it  till;  bftil  nf  llie  cxhiljilion  tiud  tn  coma,  Unit  they 
would  awtilloiv  live  ecorpions,  and  do  other  wonderful  fcata, 
Rhowioj:  that  tbcy  viere  not  like  othi-r  men,  mid  could  do 
witli  impunity  what  would  dwtroy  any  one  else.  Tlits 
our  Ami)  interpreter  Muhmoud  appeared  firmlv  to  believe. 
But  I  and  my  friends  were  tired  and  dis(;iiBted  with  these 
howling  manuic*,  and  departed.  Tliere  iniint  Ims  some  trick 
iu  tliia  perfurmnuce,  although  1  failed  to  dlnuover  iL 

There  are  many  objeets  of  int«re«t  to  the  stranger  at 
Algieri  whieli  1  have  not  apace  even  to  enumerate.  X 
vroiihl  malce  an  exception  in  fuvoiir  of  the  Mosques,  large 
naked  edifices  with  semieircutar  or  Saracenic  archm, 
the  floors  covered  with  Turkey  cnrpeta  or  mats,  for  tho 
barefooted  worshippen.  The  Miwicum  is  nl»o  well  worth 
a  careful  visit;  it<<<>ntaina  many  intere^iinji;  Cartliaginiaa 
Mud  Uoman  antiquities,  the  latter  showin;;  what  n  hi(;li 
decree  of  uivili/Ati»u  and  what  great  importance  the 
Botnan  eulunicu  and  towns  had  iiituiiicd  dtirin^  the  Koman 
OCcupution  of  Aljjeria.  lu  all  they  do  at  present,  both  in 
a  military  and  social  point  of  view,  the  French  seem  to  bu 
merely  following  in  the  iitei>s  of  their  Roman  predeceiutora. 
As  they  advance  south  they  are  occupying  the  same 
military  posts,  colonizinj;  tho  same  towns,  and  finding 
that  nhntever  th<-y  have  t^*  do  has  heeo  done  before  themf 
nenrly  two  tliou.iatul  years  ai;o,  by  the  oon<)Uerors  of  the 
ancient  world.  Whnt  this  wonderful  people  did  in  Gaul 
and  iu  Britain  they  were  doing  at  the  «amc  time  in  north* 
WMtcrn  Africa  and  in  a  score  of  other  regions. 

No  one  should  leave  the  Museum  without  coating  a  glance 
at  a  ghastly  vestige  of  the  cruelty  of  the  Algerine  pirates  id 
former  diivs.  There  was  n  trfl<lttion  connected  with  one 
of  the  .\lgcrinc  fortTMsei  that  above  two  hundred  years 
ago  a  Moorish  convert  to  Christiaalty,  who  would  not 
abjure  his  new  religion,  was  buried  and  built  up  ulirc  in 
one  of  the  walla  of  the  fortress.  The  French  had  to  de- 
molish this  fortress,  and  truly,  in  the  very  depth  of  one  of 
tbe  walls,  was  found  the  body  of  the  poor  victim.  A  cast 
was  taken,  and  now  more  than  two  cent urice  afterwards  it 
pR'senls  as  vivid  and  t«rrible  an  embodiment  of  his  torture 


k 


512 


AIjOIKHS  axd  at^eria. 


anil  (1i.-MtK  an  does  th«  cahL  at  Pomptiii  of  llie  death  of  t1i« 
family  uvertaLen  by  the  nslies  of  Vesuvius  fighU'i'ii 
conturiee  sgo.  lli^  hniitls  and  iVot  tvcrv  bnuil<l  witti  uordx, 
und  lie  wue  cvitleiilly  Uirowti  liurixontnlly  into  the  wet 
luortnr.  Hiw  iiKiutU  i»  pureed  u]>  la  prevent  its  onter- 
io};,  and  gives  tbe  impressiua  of  liorrur  mid  aKony* 

Algiers  and  ite  Btiniigv  life  aud  mixdc*  Hurvey«d  and 
anidysud,  my  Ihouglitu  turned  to  ttie  (inncipal  objet-t  of 
my  visit,  the  etudy  ordimatc,  revealed  by  veicetation. 
the  lie«t  way  orjud;;in}r  what  the  Algcrino  eJimnti:  rcall/l 
i«,  T  d«'v(it<-d  a  coujile  uf  d»yii  to  the  oxatninittion  of  tbd 
Jardin  d'E«sai  or  Kxperimental  Uardeii,  of  which  I  hud 
heard  mucb. 

This  gunlun  \vm  eommenocd  pomc  twenty  ycnre  ago  bjr 
OovemnieDt  as  a  Ixtttinical  and  experimental  garden.  iVj 
is  situated  about  two  miles  from  Al;;;ier9,  in  th«  centre  ol 
tbe  buy,  beyond  Miwiaiiha  Inferior.  It  ocoiipioB  tbo  lerel"* 
gmiiixl  at  tbe  fuot  of  the  i^ulu-l  bill,  extending  to  the' 
sea-shore,  and  ascending  the  Sabcl  itvi-lf  for  a  Mburt  dittanoe. 
Within  the  Inet  lew  years,  it  has  been  sold  to  a  oom- 
iniTiy  which  u  doing  much  for  Algcriii,  tho  Compoifnie 
Tbalabut.  All  the  plans  of  tbo  (iuveriiment  are  IwiiiK 
continued  ou  the  system  of  a  vast  nursery  or  borlioultunil 
establishment,  meiint  to  [lay  its  expenses  by  the  sale  of 
plantii  and  trei-ii.  IHie  soil  ht  a  mixture  of  calcareous  loain 
with  micaceous  and  siliceous  sand.  The  most  remarkable 
feature  in  the  gaiden  is  a  splendid  avenne  of  Chamerope 
huuiilis,  Latania  Hurboniea,  iind  Draewnii  Draco,  ultcr- 
natini;  on  each  side  for  a  distance  of  nearly  half  a  mile. 
The  ChnniiDro]w  are  at  least  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  tlio 
Lutanias  and  Oracatnaa  higher  still,  quite  trece.  The 
eflect  of  thia  wide  (ropioal  avenue  of  I'almc  is  perfectly 
mii;;iciil.  They  arc  in  splendid  health  and  beauty,  although 
liiiiny  of  tlm  Kavi-M  had  been  diima^e<l  by  the  severe  \veatber 
uf  Mareh.  It  would  ajipcar  that  the  weather  was  as  bad 
in  the  year  ISOK  during  March  in  Northern  Africa  aiF  in 
Southern  Kurope — constant  winds  from  the  north,  with 
h;iil,  and  a  low  temjicraturc  predominatini;.  The  Palms,  1 
wjiH  told,  hud  suUerod  tinuiiuully,  but  were  only  dimagod 
iu  foUagej  not  in  stru<Aui-e.     There  is  aUo  a  Hue  avonut 


THE   JAKDIN   d'essai.  51? 

mod  a  smalt  thicket  of  noble  specimens,  of  the  Fhcemx 
dactyl  ifera. 

One  large  border  devoted  to  hardy  Palme,  capable  of 
growing  with  pertect  health  in  the  climate  of  Algeria, 
filled  me  with  admiration.  There  I  saw  growing  freely, 
luxuriantly,  to  the  height  of  from  ten  to  twenty  or  thirty 
feet,  in  the  full  perl'ection  of  health,  many  Palms  that  I 
had  never  seen  before  out  of  Palm-houses,  always  excepting 
those  I  mentioned  in  a  former  chapter,  as  grown  in  the  open 
air  on  the  Riviera.  Thus  I  noted  the  PhoBnix  pumila,  re- 
clinata,  spinosa,  leonensis;  Sabal  Adansoni;  Chamferops 
humilis,  Martiana,  tomentosa,  palmetto,  excelsa,  elegans, 
hystrii,  Birrhus;  Copernicia  cerifera;  Corypha  austratis; 
Lutania  Borbonica  (immense)  ;  Brahea  conduplicata ; 
Thrinax  specioea,  radicata,  argentea;  Hhaphts  flabelli- 
formis;  Ceroxylum  niveura ;  Ciiamcedorea  speciosa,  lepi- 
dota,  scandens,  elegans;  Orcodoxa  regia;  Cocos  Datil, 
Bpeciosa,  botryophora,  lapiilea,  austrulis,  coronata;  Jubsea 
speetabilis ;  Attalea  Kpiicioea ;  Curyota  Cumingti,  furfu- 
racea,  urens ;  Arenga  saccharifera;  and  several  others,  the 
names  of  which  I  did  not  note. 

There  were  also  beautiful  beds  of  Cyc.ideaceffi,  Bona- 
parteffi  or  Basyliriie,  Dracaenas,  and  Yuccas,  Among 
others  plants  I  mitict'd  Dinn  edulc,  Encophulartos  horridus, 
Caffra  Lebmamii,  longit'olius ;  Cycas  KumphJi,  circinatis, 
revoluta — all  large  plants,  two  or  three  leet  high,  Zamia 
fuBca,  latifdliii;  JMiisa  Ensete,  Strelitzia  ovata;  Dracmna 
indivisa,  Draco,  umbruculil'i'ra ;  Cordyline  congesta,  Bra- 
silicniiis,  caiincerDlia;  Yucca  aloit'olia,  t;loriosa,  Draconis, 
filitt;ra,  anguslilulia,  Parmenticri,  canal icii lata.  All  these 
trees  and  plants  were  remarkable  for  the  perfection  of  their 
development,  making  due  allowance  for  the  winds  and 
cold  ol'  March,  which,  as  stateJ,  had  damaged  the  leaves 
in  some  cases.  The  Cocos  botryophora,  the  Cocos  speciosa, 
and  the  Oreoduxa  rcgia  were  above  thirty  feet  in  height, 
althouifb  young  trees — the  silieeous  soil  evidently  suiting 
them.  The  S:ibal  Adansoni  were  very  fine  plants,  one  mass 
of  leaves,  but  these  leaves  were  so  torn  by  the  wind  that 
they  had  lost  all  claim  to  beauty.  Even  the  Littania 
Borbonica,  magniticent  as  it  was  as  a  tree  fifteen  feet  high, 

L  L 


5U 


ALOmiU)   AN'D  AIXIBRtA. 


IH  not  so  handsome  or  wlion  kA\  grown  in  s  tU>v«, 
j)l«ity  of  room  to  develop  each  leaf. 

Tho  (iret  impre«Eton  produced  br  the  n'lghl  of  tliese 
beautiful  ['aliDK,  CvL-iideucnv,  Zamio!,  iii)d  BonApjirti!iB, 
wiii>  that  1  had  landed  in  a  truly  tropical  country,  and  1 
cast  my  eyes  arauDd  to  sco  if  it  wm  not  really  so.  To  my 
(Tiirju'ise  I  found  on  all  Kidw  th«  cvidt-nw)  of  a  "  real 
wiuler,"  of  a  winter  apparently  as  sevpre  iia  the  one  ivo 
experience  on  the  north  shoivs  of  the  Mediterranean,  in 
a  latitude  5'  more  north,  but  protftctcil  from  north  winds 
I>y  tho  Maritime  ,\\\«i.  The  deeitluoua  triH"*,  MuUn-rry, 
Vig,  Plane,  I'ome^rrannte,  Willow,  wrero  only  ja*t  Iieirjuning 
to  show  signs  of  life  (April  IS).  The  Vines  were  throwioij 
forth  their  Rni  leave*,  the  tlowent  were  not  yet  duvel<i[ied. 
Tlien>  were  hut  few  Kosea  out,  and  those  principiilly  the 
hardy  Bengal  Rose.  Spring  bnib?  were  fcoing  or  gone 
cut  of  flower,  hut  the  Rununctiliifi,  the  Sparasis,  and  Ixi* 
were  in  full  and  profuse  bloom.  [  hud  seen  orctianls  of 
the  edible  Banuna  on  my  wiiy  from  Alffien-,  evidently 
cultivated  for  tlic  fruit,  but  they  were  mere  Iuul1<.tiii  Htema 
one  or  two  years  old,  torn  and  battered  by  the  winter,  and 
jnst  showing  at  their  extrcmitic*  the  (iret  new  Wf.  On 
the  olhiT  hand,  there  were  scarcely  anv  Oran<ji;  tree*  or 
Lemon  treex,  either  tn  the  Jardin  d'E^sai  or  in  the  gardcua 
of  the  country  houses  at  ^(iivtiiphn  Superior,  ths  hilly 
health  pubiirb  of  Aljficr*  wh<-re  are  situated  most  of  the 
GXiiiniry  hoii*CJi  of  the  riuh  Al^rines,  and  the  favouri 
villas  for  invalids. 

In  a  wor>l,  there  war  conehiAJve  evidence  that  vejretatji 
sntTei-*  more  from  the  iitilm-noe  of  winter  at  Al^iors  thftO 
on  the  (ienoese  underdid',  and  that  sprint;  wan  not  (hen 
more  advanced.  The  only  dcdnetion  I  could  make  wax  that 
the  plants  enumerated  were  hiinty  enough  to  pa^  through 
lieiirly  tli«  Mmo  amonnl  of  winter  euhl  aa  experienced 
on  the  prottrctcd  Kivirra,  h*  more  north,  hut  that  the  greater 
heal  of  the  Hummer  in  Aliriers  secures  to  them  a  more 
luxuriant,  more  exuberant  life  and  f;rou-th.  This  i»  more 
esp'-t-ially  shown  by  the  Banana,  wht^h  grown  anywhere  on 
thu  iliviera,  but  only  gives  ripe  fruit  iu  very  excejiliunully 


I 


N0HTH-EA8T  EXI-OSOHE  OF  ALOIEBfl.         515 

warm  corncrpi,  fucIi  as  tlio  bays  liptwoen  Meotone  and 
Muiiaco;  nlieri-jm  it  ix  oviilciitly  culliviiUd  extensively  iu 
lli«  vicinity  of  Al(^iers  Tor  the  sale  of  its  fruit,  and  thul  in 
sitnatioDS  fully  cspoeed  to  the  north  winds. 

'niwc  fnctif  lire  i»N!ty  uniU-rKtood  wlifii  we  consider  the 
podilion  of  A));iers.  Jti-tng  ex|iuxeil  iluc  north  and  north- 
east on  the  south  shore  of  the  Met!  iter  ran^ni),  on  the 
slopes  of  I  crcsccntcd  hilt  from  »U0  to  (IDO  t«et  lirt.'li  (the 
Sahel),  the  north-weot  and  north-vii^t  windtt,  which  ivii;n 
di'iHiiK  *lie  winter,  arrive  cool  and  landed  with  tnoi^'turc. 
They  thus  bnn<;  moderate  cold  and  a  damp  atmoiiphere, 
the  mciiHture  of  which  oftrD  fjilU  lis  coul  rain,  couduiksed^ 
by  the  hills  and  mouiitainit  behind  Al}[iers.  The  town 
bein>;  north-east  and  north,  the  snu  in  winter,  when  low  ill 
(lie  horizon,  cannot  xhinc  nith  the  same  power  on  on  the 
iiurtl)  xhore  of  the  Medilcrruntian,  where  ita  rayei  iinpiuf^e 
directly,  all  day,  on  the  iiDdL-ri.'hff.  Ou  the  20lh  of  April, 
even  at  twelve  o'clock,  tho  fronts  of  Uie  bouses  at  M  ustiiplm 
Siijiorior  were  in  the  shade;  being  situated  on  the  north 
elope  of  a  hill  lookin);  towards  the  beautiful  bay,  tbey 
ai-c  naturally  built  to  face  the  sea.  Mortovcr,  aa  the  Dorto 
winds  are  iu'eciwarily  moixt  from  having  cTuxseil  over  the 
entire  width  of  tbe  Mudilerranciin,  ur  Irom  having  come 
from  the  Atlantic,  the  sky  is  whilinh  owinif  to  watery  i 
rupour  in  the  atmosphere;  it  is  not  dry  and  blue  as  on  tba 
north  Mediterruneau  xlinre— a  conditiOD  whiefa  still  more 
diminisbes  the  power  of  the  sun'»  rays. 

Alter  visiting  the  Jardin  d'Kwai,  on  one  occasion,  I 
(Iru^e  a  mile  or  two  fuitlier  on,  •lecended  a  favonritL-  ravine 
or  VHlley  called  the  "  Vallon  Fraix,"  puxKcd  along  the 
summit  of  the  Sahel,  hut  on  a  roiid  below  tlit  level,  and 
returned  by  Mueluphu  Superior.  AVherever  we  found  pro- 
tection from  the  north  xcn  winda,  in  hollows  and  valleys, 
ve^tielation  at  once  assumed  ^reat  luxuri.ioce.  Fif;;,  Ulive, 
and  Orungo  trees  appeared,  large  in  size  and  healthy  in 
devclopncDl,  but  diiuip])«in.-d  us  soon  lu  tlio  proteution 
ceased. 

It  is  certain  that  there  is  nothing  like  the  luxunnnoAj 
of  winter  veg«tiitioa  at  Algiers  thai  is  ubbervod  bulwcei 

1.L2 


516 


ALOU:i)S   AND  ALGERIA. 


Kico  tini  San  Kumo.  Thv  Orange;  nml  Ij«mon  trMi  cannot 
stand  nortb  sea  windn  even  Jn  Jatitude  36",  idtlii^iij^i  taoy 
cttn  liear  ooiith  sea  winds  in  Intiltide  49*;  »o  tbey  ua 
alx^nt,  fsoi>|>t  in  slit^ltcred  nooliF  »nd  cornt-n,  vrhvru  they 
Iftxiw  w«ll  enour;!).  Even  the  Olive  tm:  ilni>«  tiut  tu-nm  to 
flniirUh  when  fwely  exposed  to  these  north  winds  at 
Allien: ;  it  has  to  ftvk  xhultcrvd  viilk-yfl  nnd  noolcs  when 
t^ic  ivind  dof*  not  n-avh  it.  'flierc  ix  nothing;  \i\cv  the 
Ohve  (frovea  of  Mcutone  to  be  »een  at  or  nenr  Al(r<^rs. 
Nor  is  it  siirprtslnfr,  when  we  consider  that  these  suroe 
noTlli  wind*,  loaded  with  moUturv,  bring  cold  rain,  txxtr 
frost,  find  snow  to  the  mountjiin  rejcions  of  the  AIIuk,  t£Q 
miIi-»  rnrther  eotith,  and  even  to  the  oases  of  the  Great 
Di'nert  of  Sahiira,  a  hun«Iri'rl  tnilw  more  to  th«  south  tjiaa 
thi-  liiBit  Attai  ridgee,  (Sre  TAe  Great  I)«»tft.  Tri»lram.) 
In  Ihe  contest  between  "  Utilnde"  and  "]ir«tc<Ttion,"  it  ia 
clenr  that  thoron<;h  protection  from  the  north  oaii  bold  it« 
own  ai^inet  many  de;;r<-es  of  hitititde. 

1  do  not  for  one  noinvnl  prdtMxl  to  tftiy  that  tho  winter 
eliiniile  of  Altera  iit  a  cold  one — the  Ihi-rmoiiii'ti-r  tx  Iberc 
to  prove  that  it  ia  not;  hut  the  spriiift  ve^;l•tllt«)n  alwi 
proves  thnt  thcro  is  a  Rn-at  denl  tit'  cuol  winter  weather 
anil  <;ni'l  ruin,  owinij  tn  i-xpoBun'  to  the  north  without  iin 
protfi'lion  wliutever.  The?e  cool  winds  and  riiintt,  n 
withstanding  lower  latitnile  nnd  f^mter  stimmer  In 
evidently  unfit  Al^ieni  proper,  that  i*.  the  town 
vicinity  of  Algiers  and  the  coast  line,  for  the  free  caltiW 
tion  (il  delicate  plnnts,  (uch  m  the  Lemon,  which  re<iuii 
«un<'hin<-,  hntt,  and  immnnily  front  north  winds  winter  ant 
vutnincr;  whereas  tliese  snnie  |ihuU  ibrivn  pcrfivt'y  in  a 
more  northern  hut  nt  the  wime  lime  a  more  proteL'led  rft;i"n. 

'Hie  hiub  medium  ti-m|'eraliire  of  Algiers  durtfij-  the 
winter  nionlhn,  sh  tttven  by  ohserrers,  in  owin;;,  in  a 
gn'iit  m>-Hi>nrc,  to  the  nights  being  warmer  than  ibey 
are  on  rhe  8hc1ti'ivd  north  Mediterranean  r^horee,  stu-h  w 
the  (]i>tiKe>H<  Itiviirn,  where  the  air  at  ni|;ht  \»  coohM  by 
downdriiiii'hts  from  the  mountJiiDs  that  prolM:!  it  I'rom 
the  north,  the  Min-itinie  Al|w. 

Ilii'-in'i  thiiH  (.'xainined  the  eastern  Ridntrlni  of  Altera, 
1  was  desirous  to  evo  tlio  region  lying  due  west,  no  we  ar- 


8IOI  FEBBUCH— MONASTKRY  or  LA,  TRArPB.    517 


nngei]  an  oxcnrainn  tn  a  Trappitit  ino»aal«ry,  8itujit«<l  oit 
the  cottsl  aboiit  fifteou  miles  wtst  of  the  city. 

Lcnvici};  tltu  port  iind  ti^wii  IwhJml,  wo  parsed  tlirooj^h 
the  wMiL4:rii  »uliurb  of  Algi^n,  oalleii  Sto.  Ku^nic,  wliura 
there  are  Eiome  country  villaa,  situated  belwueu  tlie  liano 
of  the  Suhcl  and  tJio  sen.  They  are  detndedly  o)jjectiou< 
ablf,  heinft  at  the  extremity  of  the  western  promontory 
tliuL  uuittributes  to  form  the  buy  of  A1t;ieni,  and  vxp'xuod, 
consequently,  both  to  the  north-west  and  north-east  winds. 
Tiiu  road  slcirU  Cape  Pcscnlu,  which  tenoiDatM  the  pro- 
montory, anil  then  tiini^  in  a  tto u I h- westerly  dir^'vttoii, 
Btill  T'llluivintf  the  shore  at  the  foot  of  the  Sidiel.  A  listlo 
ru'thtT  on  tbi.'  Suhel  hill  leaves  the  coast,  or  rather  folluwa 
it  u  fun-  inil<w  inland.  It  sends,  hovrever,  buttresses, 
riha  as  it  wuie,  ioto  the  ava,  which  f^ivv  a  veryja^ud, 
iiTe}(iilar  churaGt«r  to  the  shore,  forinint;  shcltKred  eovva 
and  hays,  oelehrat«d  in  former  times  aa  the  retreat  of  the 
Al|^>rin«  pirate  vvsseU,  It  is  here  that  they  used  to  lie, 
ready  at  any  momvnl  to  avail  themselves  of  favotirabte 
winds  to  KO  to  aea,  and  pounw  on  ibcir  i<rvy.  Tlie  road 
all  but  iikirts  the  coutit,  puiuing  through  a  plain  oDly-i 
pai'tiiilly  eiillivalcd,  and  atdl  covered  in  a  sr^at  meaunra 
witli  the  Chania-ro|)s  Palm,  Ctstus,  and  wild  flowers  and 
gnuiMii.  Here  nn<l  there  we  oamc  upon  patches  of  eulti- 
vatiiin,  corn  farins.  Geranium  farms  fur  scent,  and  [KistnrLit, 
whieb,  hy  their  Iuxuri4nt  crops,  showed  the  aoil  to  be  a 
Tcry  litrtde  oni*. 

FilU-eti   miliit   from  Alq:ior*  wo   rcacho)   a  ea*tla  inr* 
fnountt-d  promontory.  Sidi  I'erniidi,  forminif  a  bay  ahel* 
t«rtd  from  the  south-west,  where  the  Freneh  anny  liindedj 
on  tbe  I4t)i  of  June,  1830.     On  tlie  l»tb  of  the  eam* 
month  was  (ou-^ht  the  Wtle  of  Slaoueli,  so  called  from  an 
elevated  iiluin  of  that  name,  four  miles  inland  from  the 
point  of  dir-eiul>arkation,  on  which  it  took  plac<;.     In  this 
iMttle  the  Turks  wuio  totally  rouletl,  and  their  dcftuit  ledi 
abortly  alWru-nrdii  Ut  the  unrronder  of  Alurien  hy  the  Doyi' 
Tliii't«en  yeurs  later,  in   IMiS,  this  plain,  extending;  over 
tiit'i  nctee  of  land,  was  given  over  hv  the  French  Govern- 
mp»t  to  (he  rootiaattc  order  of  the  Trappists,  who  at  omM 
oominencvd  the  foundation  of  their  preteut  cstabliiilimDut. 


518 


ALGIERS  AND   AIi3EIUA. 


After  twcnty-Beven  yean'  strugfjle  with  nature,  they  fiavo 
tinn>-r<>rmec)  tlio  wild  P^Im-covvrcd  pUin  of  SUou(.-li  into 
a  giinlvn  of  Eden. 

Lu(lic«  are  not  admitted  within  th«  monrurt^ry,  so  those 
who  accotn]ianii-d  iia  liud  to  reinaiu  in  the  Porter's  lodge, 
tnnch  to  their  chB>jrIn.  W'&  ]ias»ed  through  n  wide  [toital 
eurmouiitcd  by  tho  fullowin};  inscription  : — 

"  ir  life  b  ud  at  L&  Tnipt>«.  death  is  holy  and  awort." 

And  then  cntcn-d  u  largi^  courtyard,  in  Iho  wntris  of  whid 
^OWN  a  group  of  inugnillueiit  l>iti!  I'ulma,  the  truii 
of  which  are  so  dose  thut  they  appear  to  oomu  from 
the  sumo  root.  The  tcnls  of  the  Dey  of  A1;per«  nnd  uf 
the  Brv*  of  ConHlittitinc  mid  Ornii,  were  riii)tcil  iiiiil<-r  their 
shade  hefin'e  the  liatile  of  Stium&li.  llound  thi->  courtyard, 
and  Tbiiud  a  lurther  one,  ure  good  aubstanliul  btiil<ling«, 
in  whiih  live  the  monks,  IttO  in  number.  TIr'sc  l>iiilditi|{H 
are  only  remarkable  by  their  naked  simplicity;  with  tb 
TrnppisU,  ovcryThin>;,  olothes,  furniture,  Ibod,  is  m\a 
to  the  mmpliwt  fxpri-wition  compatible  with  life.  I 
much  Ktruck  by  the  dormilory,  a  large  room,  in 
oentre  of  which,  iu  a  double  row,  are  small  numbei 
cabins,  six  feet  long  and  five  wide,  quite  open  at  tliu  tw| 
half  upeii  lit  tlic  yUir,  with  little  iron  beds,  on«  thin  ma' 
tren,  and  u  bliinUit.  Ili-re  they  all  sleep,  are  ill  and  di 
Two  lied*teads  were  turned  up,  and  we  wore  told  thvi 
oocnpiints  had  died  the  day  before.  On  entering,  tl 
monks  loao  their  iiameM,  und  aasitmc  conventual  na 
Father  Tiiomaa,  Father  I'iiilippe.  When  a  monk  die«,  i 
in  merely  Father  Joseph  who  dies,  silence  is  tlie  rule 
lilt*  order,  ihe  only  one  who  is  allowt-d  to  speak  being 
one  who  is  tuld  out  for  the  day  to  take  strangers  over 
piemiscs. 

The  monks  are  divided  into  two  vectione,  the  spirit: 
fatlici-fi  and  the  working  fathew.  The  former,  drcitaed 
white,  m-vvr  work,  but  jierform  masses  in  the  chapel  daj 
and  night,  one  service  be(;inning  as  the  other  ends, 
order,  its  I  was  told,  "  thut  the  praisu  of  the  Lord  may 
sung  without  cmsing."  The  working  lutlierK  are  drestii 
in  browu  woollen  gowns,  with  a  rope  cord  at  the  wiual 


I 


JIONABTEBY  OF  LA  TOAPPB — CEMETERY.         519 

and  work  on  the  farm  from  morn  to  eve.  I  never  mw 
Diure  splendid  animnU,  cows,  oxen,  mules,  hofHes,  Roat«, 
BJiecp,  nitd  p*e»,  tliun  thoM  rwed  on  the  fiirm.  The  (ttrtn 
lMiil<liii<^  vtcre  pvrfeMt,  Utd  th«  fields  ii)  a  K|>lfn<iid  aUte  of 
cultivuiiDM,  ^rowiu^  V'ineB,  fruit,  .Mulberry  trees,  cervals, 
Bod  )>in6ee«,  in  abundaDoe.  ^^'e  were  told  llint  tho 
farmiiii;  pni(it«  were  very  conxiduniblc,  und  were  nil  con- 
sumed in  ehuTity,  nrineittally  in  givinj;  food  and  drink  to 
tliirise  who  applieil  at  tlie  Kate,  The  monka  tbemsetvos 
only  lived  on  bnutd  iind  vci^tuhlcs,  drinking;  nutvr.  ThiM 
they  Mtitrved  in  the  R)ti)i>t  oJ'  plenty.  The  fiilher  who  gave 
me  thiTKe  delaiU  ^id  thai  ail  [MBtulaiit^  who  presented 
tliemiiL'lvea  were  admitted  it'  there  was  a  vacancy,  which 
therp  )>eiierally  wue,  and  no  (|u«ltunH  wuio  twki-d.  If 
tlidr  eouragv  lulled  them  they  were  free  to  de{)urt  when 
tlicy  liked,  Htit  a  Hinull  iiropurtion  nf  those  wh»  entered 
yearly  remained,  for,  said  he,  they  wanted  faith,  and 
mi>luok  tempumry  feeling,  K^ricl,  dof^pair,  di»);utit  of  tbo 
world,  fur  a  real  r(:li>;iouic  vocation  founded  on  "  faith." 
So  they  Hoou  l(i«t  euurajte,  and  the  emotions  that  drove 
them  into  retreat  calmin^r  down,  they  elided  hack  into  the 
world.  Had  monastic  initlitutions  always  bucn  funnded 
and  direcl«d  on  thene  )»riiicipleM,  hud  tliey  merely  inciil- 
cnted  scll'ditniul  mid  uiedititiun,  enforced  labour  and  reli- 
gious duioipliitc,  and  k'll  those  who  jointed  them  free  to  go 
or  to  oome,  thoy  would  not  liavv  falkn  into  such  genera) 
diKiipprobatioD, 

Vie  were  vhown  the  cemetery,  a  mere  ordinary  hnryin*- 
plaee  with  mouniU  and  crosses  only,  to  show  where  the 
dead  lie.  The  'i'rappisia  do  not  spend  their  time  in 
dtt;;;in^  and  Rllin;;  up  their  own  grave*  a»  rq>  >rtei(L  When 
11  brutlier  dicM  hiit  tjrave  in  Aug  and  he  is  buried,  that  is 
hII.  The  organikutiun  of  tJiis  monastic  order  as  tItuH  ex- 
plained is  admirable  It  afTords  a  field  for  lliu  two  ditfertnt 
ty|>CB  of  the  human  mmd  which  arc  everywhere  to  Im 
louiid.  The  i^piriiuiilLilii,  the  followers  of  Plato,  would 
naturally  beeome  apirituul  fathers  and  pass  their  time  in 
ecstatic  contemplation  and  roeilitation  and  in  relit^ious 
olMervaiioof,  wlivrewi  the  poititivUt4,  the  followers  of] 
Aristotle,  would   as  uatunilly  take  to   Uio  farm.     As  U> 


dao 


ALQEEBS  AND  ALOEBU. 


inyspir,  were  I  to  Wcome  a  TrappUt,  I  ehonld  at  one* 
K[>[>]y  tor  tho  post  of"  pnrilonor,"  It  is  ratnxly  ncocuwiry  to 
0(1(1  Itiut  thv  portrait  given  in  the  vroodcut  w  Hint  of  » 
"apirilualidt"  father.  He  had  been  a  Zouave  Boldter, 
took  refii^D  from  the  world  at  Staoncli,  and  diod  th(Te. 

TliiB  viiiit  to  the  Tr.ippist  tnoniistcry  vividly  rwaltcd 
idcuH  which  hnd  iH^ctipi<.^d  my  thou^hta  ever  since  iHndinSt 
and  which  every  day's  residence  in  Ai(reria  hns  t4.*ndcd  to 
Btrcngthen,  The  aettletnent  of  the  French  in  Alj;^'ria, 
slthough  iindurtulion  and  continued  for  political  purpoaet 


TM  TJUpnsT  xoniTB. 

only,  has  in  reality  a  decided  missionary  chameter.  Ji^^ 
the  firvt  grand  inroad  made  on  the  hmd-quurlers 
Mahottedan  intiilelily  siiino  the  tinu^  ol'  the  Crii<:ade 
TJenrlyall  the  nortl)-M||||nnHt  ••(  .\itjtgiamn  lotheCirvnf 
I>e<-ert,  has  W-rn  '""^^^tby  the  ^^^^^Blion,  never 
bo  given  npn-i  11,  ^^^^»  with^^^^^^fcChristiiuiiti 


#1 


TUB   F.VHM  AT  LA   TRAPPE. 


521 


and  Ctiriatian  ideas  of  riglit  and  wrong  hare  eetaMUliej 
thonieclves  over  this,  the  most  fertile  region  of  North  Africa, 
the  f^mit  Btronghohl  of  MaJioim-iliiniBin  in  Ihe  Mtd(ll« 
Agesi.  It  was  from  thi»  part  of  Africa  thsl  the  Mahomedan 
Antba  pamed  over  to  Europe,  to  overrun  nearly  nil  its 
■otitJiern  rogione.  Chris liui  Europe,  eleven  centuries 
»go,  in  the  days  of  Clmrles  Marl*-!  (battle  of  Tivurs, 
7iM),  puHhed  hack  into  Afrioa  the  threaleninjj  wave  of 
Mnhonu-duniiini ,  and  now,  a^er  this  \oag  Ijipee  of  time, 
Chriiitiiin  Kurope  haa  penn:inently  occupied  the  ver, 
country  from  whence  Llie  fien'c  ^liihomedan  of  the  earljrl 
Middle  Ages  came.  Singular  it  is  that  it  should  have 
been  left  to  the  nineteenth  century  to  destroy  this  ncitt  of 
Mahomvdan  pinites,  that  idl  the  ^ent  kings  and  em[H>ron 
of  modern  hititory  should  have  allowed  them  to  reijjo  over  ■ 
and  mv^ie  the  Mediterranean  seas.  It  is  not  mnch  mor 
than  forty  years  since  Franco  took  upon  herself  the  gWiouf 
t.igk  of  chBRtitiiig  n»d  expelling  tho  iolidel  pirate*  from 
their  blood-stained  home. 

I  inquired  of  the  father  who  took  na  round  liow  it  wag , 
that  no  little  had  been  accomplished  in  the  eultivntion 
the  latid  Iwtwet-n  their  extalilixhrni-nt  and  Al^riern,  f<ir  ws' 
had  seen  nothing  like  the  luxurian{^e  of  the  Triip[>i»t  larm. 
His  answer  was  that  it  was  not  so  much  from  superior 
fertility  of  soil  as  from  the  constant  indefatig^ahlc  laUonr 
and  intelligent  mann^^ment  of  the  monk)!.  The  latti-r, 
however,  1  auhaeqiiently  learnt  were  at  first  consid<?rabl/ 
aMiKliid  by  convict  laI>onr  granted  by  the  authoritii's.  Thfti 
Fn-ncUOoveniment  haa  made  the  most  euerf^tic  and  liberal' 
efforts  to  coloniKe  the  fertilo  land*  of  Algeria,  giving  land, 
seed,  tools  without  ittint,  but  hitherto  with  verv  partial 
mcccKx.  The  culonisls  are  very  often  men  who  haw  not 
Bucceecled  in  tJteir  own  conntty  for  want  of  llie  ven-  (jtialitie 
necessary  to  make  them  iiucvNNrd  in  another;  Lbey  drinll 
or  nafflect  their  farma,  or  mismanage  ihcm.  If  a  year  of 
prosperity  comes  they  spend  the  money,  and  then  in  tlia 
year  of  had  cr<t\nt  arc  obliged  to  borrow  at  niinou»  interest, 
P't  involved,  and  have  to  sell  at  any  aaeriRw.  Moreover, 
they  ol\en  Iom  their  health,  even  if  in  a  healthy  <li<<tnet, 
from  bud  and  itisuflicivnt  food,  from  bad  water,  and  from 


522 


ALOIBRS  AND   AIXJERrX. 


Kving  in  the  |>«riwl  of  fint  KcUloniciit  months  in  tenta 
under  au  AlricAii  ana.  Alt«r  yc-ara  ut'  etriiiigle,  broken  ia 
constitution,  over-1>ur<lenod  will)  debt,  they  die  or  oiitktf 
nuy  for  men  witli  »  litllv  rspilal,  who  Ihij  lh«ni  oiil  nai 
finilit  by  ttii-ir  hilmuni,  iinproviJenoM,  >nd  iiiiMfortuuv 
The«eni(idj!;i-iiorulion  thus  begins  under  better  auspices,  has' 
frood  food,  whicli  the  soil  now  producer,  imd  livoK  in  wvlU 
biiilt  hiiiiK-s,  nhidi  Khettur  thvm  from  Uid  hent  in  Rummer 
and  li)e  ruin  in  uinU-r,  so  they  tbitrUh  and  thrive  whe 
their  prcdeosseors  sickened  and  died.  Such  is  the  tale 
hcord  everywhere  all  over  Alfjeriu. 

On  the  ifturii  j»urn«y  we  took  another  roud  lit  a  higher 
level,  on  the  Sahel,  passed  through  sevi-ral  flourialiin^ 
villoi^ci!  and  we11-nianii§;ed  rnrnii!!.  lutd  dcecendod  on  Al^^tera 
by  tiiu  liei^hls  of  Itoiixiirejih,  The  view  from  thesw  Itoi^hts 
is  Very  line,  and  the  valley  dotvn  which  the  rood  descends 
to  Al^iiers  is  very  fresb  and  ^recn.  There  is,  however, 
nolliing  in  its  beauty  to  warraut  the  poetical  rapt^iree  into 
n-hich  most  tourists  in  Algeria  break  forth  in  dcBcribin;* 
the  Itiiiiziirciih  hills  and  ravini-v,  uuIl-w  it  bo  the  numeroiis 
dwarf  I'lihtm,  Aloes,  and  Upunlias.  Vet  they  are  not  bo 
very  bi-aiitiful  when  seen  diist-eoveixd  on  the  roadsido,  an" 
they  are  met  everywhere  about  Al(;i<'iv.  On  an  unuccuiitonte 
eye,  however,  tliey  muy,  and  probubly  do  produuc  a  de«f 
imprMMon. 

Al^^ieis  and  ita  vicinity  analysed,  and  time  pressing, 
and  my  trnvolling  eompunionn,  n  distinguished  and  bri^ 
liiiotly  inUtlluctua)  Amerinan  gentleman,  member  of  Coi 
gress  for  New  York,  and  his  aceomplihhed  1-idy,  commene 
pntpiirntions  for  the  wcond  atage  of  our  travels :  the  ex[ 
dition  to  Fort  Ni>po1ei)n,  in  the  "Grande  Kabyliv,"  iit  ihl 
foot  of  tlie  Jurjuta  Mountains.   There  are  dili^'eni-cs  all  ov( 
Algeria,  but  not  wishing  to  travel  at  night,  and  being  tk 
by  time,  I  applied  to  the  head  of  the  udininiittration  of  tl; 
niaiU  and  dilii^vneex  for  a  good  carnage,  witli  relays  i 
horses  at  pro[)rr  (daces.     The  plitii  of  our  journey  waa  lai^ 
before  the  authorities,  and   the  ncce«>ary  ineusura*  were  a 
jadieioiixly  liikcn  from   hi-ad-iju-irteni  Unit  tlie  entire  ront 
yiwt  ^vrfoimed  easily,  comlortubly,  without  the  nU^^hUil 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY.  523 

hitch  or  trouble.     The  cost  was,  we  considered,  reasonable, 
although  above  ordioary  posting  ratea. 

FHSSICAL    HEOGBAPHY    AMD    GEOLOGY   OF   ALGBHIA — "Li 
ORaNDK   KABYLIe" — FOftT  NAPOLEON. 

Before  beginning  the  narration  of  my  travels  in  the 
interior  of  Algeria  I  must  say  a  few  words  on  the  topo- 
graphy, history,  ethnology,  and  geology  of  the  country  and 
of  its  inhabitants,  in  order  to  facilitate  the  comprehension 
of  what  I  eaw.     But  I  shall  be  very  brief. 

Algeria  is  a  mere  African  Switzerland,  as  will  be  per- 
ceived OD  referring  to  the  map  at  the  commencement  of 
this  chapter.  I  have  drawn  it  up  mure  especially  to  show 
the  physical  geography  of  the  country,  the  mountjiiQa,  the 
valleys,  the  rivers,  and  the  Desert.  It  is  founded  on  a  very 
good  skeleton  map  in  Dr.  Armand's  work,  entitled  "  Mede- 
cine  et  Hygiene  des  Pays  Chauds,"  Algeria  is  constituted 
by  a  niasd  of  mountains  on  the  north  coast  of  the  African 
continent,  extending  from  Morocco  westward  to  the  Fuchulic 
of  Tunis  eastward,  that  is,  from  longitude  8  West  to 
10  East,  or  18  degrees,  equivalent  to  1200  miles  from  cast 
to  west.  The  Atlas  are  lost  to  the  east  in  lower  hills  scarcely 
deserving  tlie  name  of  mountains,  which  form  the  back- 
ground  of  the  Piichalic  of  Tripoli  between  the  sea  and  the 
Desert  Algeria  is  comprised  between  the  3Tth  and  the 
33rd  degrees  of  latitude,  and  extends  aliout  200  miles  from 
the  Mediterranean  to  the  onsi'S  of  the  Desert,  wliere  moun- 
tains and  raised  plains  disappear,  and  where  the  level  is 
ollen  only  a  few  feet  above  the  ocean.  Mount  Atlas,  which 
constitutes  this  Alpine  country,  instead  of  being  formed  by 
one  range,  as  is  generally  supposed,  is  formed  hy  three 
ranges,  rather  blended  in  the  province  of  Constantine,  but 
quite  distinct  in  those  of  Algiers  and  Oran,  witb  inter- 
vening valleys.     These  ranges  are  : — 

1st.  The  Little  Atlas,  which,  beginning  with  the  Jurjiira 
Mountains,  seen  from  Algiers  on  the  eastern  horizon  about 
sixty  miles  distant,  runs  paraJInl  to  the  coast,  at  a  distance 
inland  of  from  one  to  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  nearly  as  far  aa 
Mostagancm.     Between  this  range  and  the  Suhel  hills,  on 


tilt'  north  side  of  whioh  the  rity  of  Algiers  ia  Uiilt, 
wi'll-kiiown  plain  of  the  Mitidjiih. 

^ncl.  'I  he  Mi(l<llu  Atlas,  which  commenvts  at  Bongii?, 
I2U  milt'*  enitl  of  Al-^ii-r*,  and  vxtomU  wettwant  iitt 
Morooco;  it  aUo  lien  purnllel  to  the  umwt,  at  a  distance 
Irom  fort^  (o  sixty  miles  IVom  the  sea.  ])elw-e«n  these  tv 
tuigee  h«K  a  rcrlilo  alliiviul  valley,  from  ti'ti  to  thirty  tnilus 
faruad,  ealli*)!  llii^  vullcy  iil'  tlii'  ('hflill',  from  the  river  of  th»t 
oaiDe,  which  runs  tliiunKh  it.  This,  the  lai^ont  river  in 
Korth  Africa,  alter  thn  Nile,  tnkeB  its  riiie  on  the  uorlh 
ilopp*  of  the  "Orcat  Alliu,"  the  third  and  rno^t  svuthvru 
rati^,  crosxc*  the  elevated  phiins  whiuh  lie  hetween  tb« 
two  inner  rangfs,  aho  the  Middle  Atlas,  and  ruus  intn  tbo 
Rca  lit  Aloslst^iii'in.  The  nlliiviiil  eoil  in  the  Cfaelilf  valley, 
in  the  Kj)Mcv  t:»mpi'itii-<l  lM-twt'<-ii  liir  Littlvatid  the  Middle 
Atlas  (■hsiiiit,ul(ini!  willi  the  .Mitidjah  nluiti,  ccnuitiluto  more 
cepeciatly  the  odtivahle  {tart  of  Aijieria.  It  ia  olten  called 
"  the  Tell,"  fn.m  the  Latin  word  "Tfllua,*'  earth. 

Srd.  The  Great  Atlus  is  a  monnliiin  nnge  which  extends 
fn-m  Tun'rgin  to  Moroeeo,  from  forty  to  *ixty  milw  south 
of  tho  Aliildle  AiUf.  The  rejtion  coiitainvd  hetween  th« 
two  lulter  c'h'iius  i^  called  the  Al^'erine  Desert,  the  IK-sert 
of  Aiif;tid,  or  the  r<-<{li>n  of  llie  Hi;;h  Pbiiis  (iliiuts  I'la- 
tvunx).  The  Inttcr  B]ip<-lliilion  in  di-rived  from  Uie  fuel  that 
the  {{loater  pitrt,  e>iH^'i»lly  t-a  the  east,  is  occupii'd  by  pluins 
seversi  ihoMbutid  leit  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  streama 
or  torrents  which  cjirry  tlie  wiitvrvhed  fmin  the  southern 
alope*  of  the  Middle  Atlu«  and  from  the  iKirtheni  tt1o)H.-«  of 
the  (ireat  Atlas,  run  into  these  plains,  and  vteiieially  findinjf 
no  exit,  form  liir)):e  "nail  water"  liil(i-«  and  marehcs  in  tlie 
cvniro  called  eholt;  as  rivers  always  do  when  tht-y  run  into 
lakes  without  exiL  The  kr^^t  of  the«ie  wiiter-iNiiin'i.v, 
the  Clielilf,  as  already  »lotcd,  Gndii  itn  nay  to  the  sea.  It 
tuktw  its  riiic  on  the  northern  slopes  of  the  (irvat  Atlas, 
crovNcK  thv  Ui;;h  Fluins,  or  the  Al<;enne  Dnert,  and  linda 
a  detl  ill  the  Middle  Atbs  by  which  it  ratehe* 
t)ie  alluvial  valley  that  btuni  iu  nain«, 

Simth  of  thtx,  the  third  mountain  chain  of  the  Oreal 
Athis,  the  Aljinn  i-c^ion  oascfi,  and  the  great  Desert  of 
Saluini,  with  its  oeeun  of  roiidiiud  its  oasea,  rvully  begtna. 


PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY — RACE  TYPES.        525 

Biskraj  one  of  the  first  oases  met  with,  is  only  one  handred 
end  sisty  Teet  above  the  sea-level.  The  appellation  Little 
and  Great  Atlas  does  not  apply  to  altitude  but  rather  to 
extent  from  east  to  west.  Thus  the  Jurjura  mountaiDs, 
which  attain  an  elevation  of  seven  thousand  feet,  are  the 
highest  of  all,  and  yet  they  are  Id  the  Little  Atlas  chain. 
I  stood  in  the  Cedar  Forest  above  Teniet-el-Hftd,  on  a 
summit  of  the  Middle  Atlas  5600  feet  high  by  the  baro- 
meter, au  altitude  which  I  believe  the  Great  Atlas  further 
•outh  does  not  attain. 

Theue  three  mountain  ranges  are  not  mathematically 
uniform,  hut  describe  sinuosities  north  and  south,  throw 
out  spurs  and  buttresses  in  every  direction,  divide  into 
subordinate  ranges,  especially  in  Oran,  and  altc^ther  make, 
as  I  have  said,  a  very  Switzerland  of  Algeria,  subordinate 
however  to  the  nntural  divisions  which  I  have  given,  and 
which  1  have  plainly  delineated  in  the  map.  A  knowledge 
of  tiiis,  the  phyoicai  geography  of  Algeria,  throws  a  great 
light  on  its  past  history,  on  that  of  its  inhabitants,  and 
on  its  climate. 

In  describing  Algiers  I  have  given  an  idea  of  the  principal 
race  types  that  inhabit  Algeria.  I  will  now  reciipitiilate 
them,  making  a  few  additional  observations  on  their  urigia 
and  history. 

The  northern  part  of  Africa  from  the  shores  of  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Red  Sea,  and  beyond,  appears  to  have 
l)een  inhabited,  from  the  dawn  of  historical  times,  by  two 
distmct  families  of  the  Arameeaa  branch  of  the  white  race, 
the  Berbers  (Kubyles  and  Touaregs]  and  the  Arabs;  and 
the  two  families  still  exist  in  these  countries.  The  Berbers 
have  ever  been  mountaineers,  agriculturists  attached  to  the 
soil  they  cultivate,  living  in  stone-built  cabins,  owning 
flocks  but  not  horses,  for  which  they  do  not  care,  as  not 
adapted  to  their  mountain  residence.  The  Arabs  have  ever 
been  nomadic,  living  in  tents,  owning  Hocks  which  they 
drive  trom  one  region  to  another,  from  the  plains  to  the 
lower  mountains,  and  vice  verad.  They  attach  greet  im- 
portunce  to  the  possession  of  horses,  and  despise  towns, 
whioh  they  destroy  and  do  not  rebuild. 

The  Carthaginians,  the  Komans,  the   Vandals,  succes- 


52C 


ALGIi:RS  AND  AIX3ERTA. 


siv«ly  occupied  the  elinrcii  oi  At^Tia  and  the  fertile  plaiij 
of  tJie  Tdl,  driviiip  lliu  (iri^innl  An\m  into  the  Gn-j 
Insert,  and  the  Ik-rWra  or  Kaliyli-a  into  the  liigUer  mouo- 
tninR,  where  bntli  retnincd  their  indcpeiidenoe.  Whoa  tiie 
rdifpoti*  nn'l  militaiy  niii;nititin  of  the  Aral>iun  Arabs  took 
pl:ice,  «<t«r  the  deuth  of  AIuhotn«(I,  in  the  M:v(-nlh  tx'ntury, 
the  Arabs  of  the  pluins,  reinfureed  hy  their  eastt^rii  eotmtrv- 
men,  Ofciipied  the  cnlivc  poimtry  with  the  cxc(pti<>i»  of  tne 
liigliiT  inoiintiiinii,  <>f  which  the  Jiirjtiru  are  the  ventrv, 
where  the  llerburs  or  Kul)yles  succeesfuUy  defended  tl»eiD> 
siflvee.  They,  the  Arabs,  reigned  supreme  on  the  shore,  in 
tlie  plaini',  iind  on  the  lower  moiintiiin  rjingen,  mnd  were 
the  conquering  ra<«  until  the  Turks  took  po«»eHfiiou  of 
Algiers  (l&Ut),  of  Tunis,  nnd  of  Oral),  and  tnitilo  their 
niilhorily  fell  und  iiccepted  hy  the  fornKrly  victoriotw  Arabs 
SH  fureoiithiiB  the  Great  Denert.  Their  power  woadcttroycd 
in  1*W0  by  the  downfall  of  the  Dey  of  Alters,  and  their 
dominion  in  the  three  provinces  of  Al^ria  has  fallou  into 
the  linnds  of  the  French.  The  liitt«r,  alter  more  than  forty 
years'  oeenpiition  of  the  country,  have  Mitablivlicd  tlwit 
authority  more  firmly  than  any  power  since  the  days  of  Uit 
Itonians.  'I'lianks  to  thirty  years'  all  but  incessant  fi>;hlin^, 
tliey  have  subdued  the  hitherto  iuilcpenJcnt  Ili-iber  or 
Kahylu  inoiintJiincvrn,  n«  wril  aa  the  Amhs  of  the  Tell  ntid 
of  the  Desert,  and  they  hold  the  cotiro  region  conipria 
in  the  map,  including  the  first  oases  uf  the  Great  Lkserl 
iliskra,  Ln^ouat,  Tn^){urt. 

The  Tell  Arabs,  owing  probably  to  their  nomadf 
paalflrtd  habitji  and  to  their  Hying  before  invasion,  bai 
retained  pretty  nenrl^-  the  type  of  their  original  ructt, 
resemble  tlu-ir  Arnhiun  or  Sahara  countrymen.  Uut  H 
town  Arabx  nnd  Kiihylea  have  in  n  great  measure  lost 
dintiuctirc  features  from  causes  that  are  ejutily  understood. 
Koeh  Buccedsivo  invasion  of  Algeiia  by  strangi-ra  drova 
many  of  tlie  previous  iohabitJintii  up  into  the  mountaina, 
where  they  amalgamated  with  the  Kabyles,  intcrnuirryiii| 
with  then).  Thus  the  Berber  race  has  been  niodilied  h] 
iiitermixlnre  with  Cnrthu^inians,  Itoniaiix,  Vandalir,  Arabi 
and  even  Negroea;  for  lu  all  times  Negroes  Irtini  t' 
Boutheru  regions  of  Saliara,  from    the  Soudan  nud  Ti 


RACE  TYPES — OBOLOOT. 


527 


Iiiictno,  have  foiind  llicir  wiiy  to  llic  north  Afriem  cowrt: 
III  the  villui^M  of  Kalivlia  many  kinilsi  of  rnco  type  araj 
<)i>ii8i.-(]UeRtlj'  seen,  frum  the  swarthy,  olive.visa;;?!!,  I'Uok-  ■ 
ey«il  Anih,  to  llic  l'^iir-»ki lined,  li)^lit-haired  descendant  of 
tliu  Vaiidals.     Thu  race  purity  of*  tbe  Atgicr*  Ardl»  baa 
boon  modified  in  the  §nme  way. 

Prcvii>uif  to  utrtrtintj  on  the  exoiraion  to  Kahylia  and 
the  Jurjura  mouiitaiua  I  was  onxious  to  malcc  my*i-lf  no- 
qiuiiiiti'd  nitli  the  Kcolony  of  Algeria,  hut  Bia;cularljp< 
eiioiigih  ponld  find  no  work  on  the  Bubjoct  at  Algiers. 
The  varioiiN  Kn-noli  (JuiduhookM  do  not  even  altmlo  tothu 
peology  of  tbe  country,  nor  do  they  h'ivq  any  account  of 
the  nature  of  tlie  rocke  and  soils  in  the  dilTerent  regions 
which  tliey  describe.  I  wam  t»Ul  that  the  only  worl:  on 
the  ft ubj cut  it  a  report,  of  a  (>overnm«nt  commisKioTi,  pul>- 
lithed  in  cjiiarlo,  with  a  map  issued  by  the  School  of  Minei 
many  years  »((i>,  but  I  could  nut  »H  a  copy.  In  the  c«td- 
logiics  of  booka  on  Alt^eria,  pnblinh^d  by  the  boglotcllors  inj 
.  Algiflnt  and  Parit,  there  was  no  mention  of  even  a^ 
pamphlet  oo  Algerine  geoloftiy,  a  very  remarkable  fact 
wbeu  wc  cont>i<ler  tlie  bearin*;  i^-ological  furnmlions  hav« 
on  agriculturt^,  and  on  the  botanical  aspectd  of  a  eutintry, 
It  would  BOcm  as  if  the  study  of,  and  the  interest  in, 
geology  in  Fruncir,  even  in  ita  applieation  tn  ngricAlture. 
were  conlincd  to  the  Hciuntiiic  men  |irof<.-aitionally  eijnnert«d 
vritb  it.  Neither  could  I  lind  any  information  in  any  ofJ 
the  Kngiisb  works  of  travel  in  Algeria  that  I  could  obtain. 
1  wii»  tbiis  reduced  to  my  own  obserrationa.  On  my 
retuni  throui;b  Paris  I  diacoven^,  not  without  trouUe,  ft 
book  written  by  M.  L.  Ville,  an  engineer,  enlitlod] 
"  Kechcrches  sur  tea  Roub«a,  Im  Khux,  et  kv  Uitvs  mineraux 
ditt  I'mvinees  d'Oran  et  d'AIger,"  1852,  nnartt^.  By 
means  of  this  interesting  work  1  have  been  able  to  teat  my 
peraoiial  experience,  and  I  bsve  Ixvn  gnideU  by  it  in 
drawing  up  the  following  geological  statement. 

'Die  mountAina   and  plains  of  Algeria  are  formed   by 
igneous  roe,ks,  and   by  primaryj  Mooiidary,  and  t«rtmrj|  ~ 
el  rata. 

Tbe  igncouH  rocks  are  not  gmiUy  developed,  and  are 
only  found  aa  oircumacribed  iftluods  in  tbe   midst  of  the 


52ft 


ALOIBBS  AND  AIjGERU. 


BtraU  they  bave  rai>«<).     Bauuilt,  porpliyry,  and  qnartx 
Hxm  Touna  here  and  there  in  tlie  pruviucea  of  Constttiitis 
Ornii,  aiid  Alj^on. 

Primary  HtmU  or  utraU  of  trnnniUmi,  Mcbteto-inicaa 
and  Bcliiato- granitic,  an^  alao  found,  but  do  not  occum-  any 
grant  L-ittont  of  the  country.  The  bill  of  Bouziin^b,  licbind 
Algivrt,  Lcloiitrt  to  this  vulcijory,  a*  do  sitnilur  formatiuus 
n«ar  Itoiie  in  tlie  Provinoe  of  ConiiUiMtiDa. 

The  secondary  strata  com^titntu  the  great  tasfia  of  tt 
AUm,  and  of  the  minor  chains  and  ridcvti.  They  are 
principally  composed  of  M:hii<tic  clays,  of  bard  <|U(irtz 
sandstoned,  and  of  j^rey  liin^tones  of  cotnpaot  cryetul- 
UiMi  tvktiira.  Hie  Mumniits  of  the  monntains  arc  t;rnernlly 
foraied  uf  quarts  aandiitoiie,  or  of  limc»tun«,  wbiUL  th« 
olara  occupy  tbetr  flanks.     Tbcy  are  fertile  and  beatlby. 

ThcKC  various  strata  have  Uot-n  violently  disturbed. 
Thttir  iiiflinalion  viirii;!<  from  -ia"  In  00".  Tlivir  dirvciion  is 
1°  K.,  Is'  S.;  the  direction  lluit  eh»raul«riu«  the  up. 
heaving  of  the  Pyreufca,  which  touk  place  betM'«H>n  the. 
depoait  of  tbo  crctaoDous  and  tbe  loner  tertiary  fuTniations : 
1^*  £.,  61'  X. ;  tlie  direction  that  chantctvniH.'*  th«  iip- 
huavinir  of  tbe  w»tern  Alps,  which  touk  plaev  hetwn>n  the 
dfipooit  of  th«  middle  and  the  upper  tertiary  iK-ricdii: 
&*£.,*I6°  N. ;  the  direction  tliiilcbiiractvrijci's  thcupnraving 
oftbc  principal  chain  of  the  Alpit,  n-hieb  took  placo  ult«r_ 
tbe  di.-pii»it  of  tbe  upper  terliarics, 

TbiH  last  is  the  must  prcvaknt  direction  in   Alc«ri3, 
faas  {•ivcn  to  iU  Murfaec  the  character  reiircKeuivtl   in 
map,  that  of  Ioor  oiiains  of  mountains,  directed  rn)in 
1«'  N.,  to  W.IC  S.,  leavins  between  them  (fwat  lonj 
tndiiial  vulleye,  parallet  to  the  dirvctiou   of  tbese  cltuii 
and  'generally  filleil  by  tertiary  formatjonst  _ 

Tiie  viirioiiH  xecondiiry  formations  of  theee  pmvinoea  ar« 
BO  i<i<'iiti(ial  in  tbtir  aspect  and  minvmlot^cul  coinp»>itioD 
that  it  is  natural  to  conclude  tliiit  they  bi-lung  lo  the  luii 
geolugiical  i-ni,     FomilH,  iit  the  same  time,  are  to  rare,  th 
It  is  ireiier.dly  only  by  analogy  unil  by  miner.dotjical  com^ 
po«iti<in    that  their  af^  can  be  determined.      M.    Kcdou 
member  ol  tbe  "Scicnlilic   Coromi«sion,"  believes   then 
all  to  lelonij  to  Uie  oretacuoun  period. 


UBOLOOY  OP  At/IRRIA: 


529 


Tli(!  ti^riiary  Htruta  krc  numerous,  and  f^nerally  oociip/ 
the  great  loiii^itudinal  valleys  wliicli  exist  l)etn-e«n  Hie 
mountjiii  chniiie  cututitiiud  hy  scomtnry  foriniiti'>n«. 
Thmw  tertiury  «tnita,  xays  M.  Villc,  Imvu  ollen  bei-n  oarrieil 
to  a  (treat  heij^ht  l>y  (lie  geological  convulnion  wliith 
upraised  them,  as  also  the  soc.ondiirv  strntji  ivliieli  gcncrully 
BupiK'i't  them.  Th(-ir  charu«teriiitic  lealuie  is  sTwrays  to 
present  great  horizontal  t'ormations,  vrhivh  enables  the 
observer  to  recosnife  ihcni  even  i»t  n  dixUnev.  Tltis 
lidrixiiiital  ehariieter  standi  out  in  Ktrong  relivT,  with  the 
abrupt  precipitous  elevations  of  the  secondaries. 

Tbt«o  tertiary  formations  conKtitnle  the  Salie),  the 
plainit  of  the  Miltdjuh,  of  tho  ChelilF,  t«  wilbiii  twelvo 
miles  W.  of  Miliaiiuli,  the  ht|;h  table  hud  between  the 
Middle  and  Great  Atlax,  and  also  the  sands  and  rocka  of 
the  (iri^it  DvM'Tt  of  Saliiiru. 

Tliey  are  formed  of  limestones,  sands,  sandstones,  and 
clays.  The  tertiary  rocks  nil  contain  these  elements,  but 
in  dilferent  proportions;  so  that  the  physical  character 
of  the  rock  is  determided  by  the  proportion  iii  whioh  the 
elements  are  contained  in  it.  The  limeitODCa  suldum 
prevent  ijTcul  hardncmc  or  compactness,  and  idivnyo  rontnia 
more  or  Icm  quartz  sand,  which  when  it  preilomiiuleH  tninx. 
forms  them  into  a  quartz  sandstone,  oomhined  by  meaoa 
of  limv.  When  this  lime  disap)K-ar8,  dtasolved  by  th« 
action  of  rain,  the  sandiitoDea  tiecume  sands.  This  decom- 
positiuD  may  be  observed  gMUg  on  ia  our  own  timi!  ia 
many  places. 

'rht^re  are  also  to  l>e  found,  as  aronnd  Mottaganem,  great , 
depuuita  of  Hand  which  have  nev«r  been  agglutinated  into 
sandstone,  and  which  the  wiud  blows  about,  forming  bills 
und  ridt;iw.  The  sands  of  the  Great  Dewert  of  Sahara,  no 
doubt  tertiary  according  to  M.  Ville,  hjive  this  double  origin. 
They  are  formed  of  non- agglutinated  original  sands,  and 
by  sands  let  loose  by  the  deaky  of  lime«t-jn«  rocks  con- 
taining them.  The  rooks  which  form  the  mountaiiiK  and 
ridges  that  limit  the  Great  Desert  to  the  north,  and  oon- 
Bt.itiitu  the  most  southeni  elevations  of  the  Groat  Atlas,  are 
8cC<)ndary,  and  t'ornied  o!'  qiuirta  iian<Ul<nie,  of  sohiiilic  elafS) 
lutd  of  secondary  (cretaceous)  litnwtone. 

M  H 


930 


ALGEBU. 


Alluviiil  iI«po«iU  are  found  in  the  valley*  Al'>ng  Uiu 
coune  of  tb«  votkiub  rivi-m,  Tim  lar^r  valtDyo,  .lucli  so 
thoae  of  the  Cbvliir  and  of  the  Cliifla,  present  tlicee  alluvial 
ilepoei'^  in  coii8iiloral>l«  dvptU  iinil  extent.  Thun  the 
CbeliQ'w»rk#  iU  coiirKi:  at  the  bcitlom  of  ii  be<]  tin-  tiid^a 
of  vrbich  are  oit«a  Ihirtjr  feet  in  depth,  entirely  alluvial. 

On  leaving  Alt^iors,  April  iO,  for  Furl  Nnpoleon,  we 
poweil  due  east  tlirougli  an  urea  of  partly  nx'lnimed  and 
oultiraled  land  for  eumi-  milM.  The  benrdrJ  Wheat  cropa 
weio  vi;;ortiiiB  and  lieiilthy,  above  two  f«i't  lti{(}i,  nnj  tne 
ear  fully  formed  ;  the  artitidal  Gnmee  vreie  equally  luxu- 
riant and  limlthy.  ThcD  we  hei^n  to  riiw,  and  cjuii> 
region  whi're  i'ldlivalion  wait  only  piutial,  the  ground  liei: 
covered  wtlli  natural  (irassea  and  plants,  mingled  wttJ 
Dwarf  Palms,  ChiiaiaTup^  humilis,  and  with  piiU:lic!ie  of 
grain  hire  and  tbi-rc,  pUtilcil  hy  the  Arulw  of  (h«  Mitidjah. 
Wherever  the  land  woit  not  tinder  ciiltivatii)ii,  the  prin- 
eipal  plantji  were  the  Pahu  und  the  Scilla  maritima.  Tba 
Cbamwrops  had  ap))t.-arcd  by  the  roadside  nnd  helweea 
fields  over  since  v>e  left  Algieni,  litit  here  it  oi'L-ujiiitl  tit* 
ground  ill  ilenne  niatiseai,  iduiii;  with  ita  friend,  the  innri- 
time  Si(uill,  called  by  the  inhabitants  the  wild  0;'non. 
Left  to  ileilf  the  Chamwn'px  I'ulm  gi-ow«  in  UiUti,  throw- 
ing out  kidv  ehoot«,  and  Hpreading  in  every  direction.  If 
these  aitle  kIiooLu  are  cut  ollj  the  main  etem  rioc?  lo  a 
height  of  from  six  to  eight  feet,  but  this  it  never  doot  ia 
a  state  of  nature,  alwuy«  throning  out  side  ahoots  instead 
This  I'alm  euvere  the  pliun  of  the  Milidjiih  in  most  places, 
and  extends  high  up  into  the  nionntuins.  Formerly  it 
existed  in  the  Ko'ith  of  I'V.ince,  und  it  is  still  found  wdd  iu 
detisie  ni:iK<ei<,  iu  the  south-east  •>!'  Spuin,  It  ia  the  principal 
oltatacle  to  the  eultivKtiun  of  the  Alitidjah,  as  it  can  only 
be  cxtt)puti-d  at  an  cxpcuec  of  8A  an  acre,  m>  deep  and 
malted  are  its  niots.  Although  an  obBtacle  to  agriculture, 
it  ia  a  great  ornament  to  the  hmdscnpo.  The  bulb  of  tba 
maritime  Sijuill,  the  Squill  ul  dniggistit,  varies  from  th« 
stxe  ol'  the  iUt  lo  that  of  a  child's  lieud,  and  it  is  perhans 
the  commonest  plant  in  Algeria.  It  extend*  all  ovir  the 
country,  up  Uie  highwt  mountains,  in  the  drti-vt,  saudml, 


KABTLIA — ;nB  VEOETATION. 


S3l 


)ifttte«>t  regWM,  Bti<l  passing  over  the  Atlas  descends  into 
tlie  Ueoert  itmir^  wliera  it  is  ncurly  the  laxt  ptuiit  iteeu. 
This  Iftct  currusjtoniU  with  my  fixi>i'ri(.*nc«  of  it  at  Mentoiii>, 
wh«re  it  grows  vigorously  on  the  hottest,  driest  rocliB,  U 
seems  equally  at  home  in  sandy  mica-nehiKtiu  ur  cAlcnn'^oits 
soil.  It  is  not  uwd,  being  uouMidiirttd  poiHoiioua  by  the 
inhabitants. 

Kisins  irradunlly  out  of  the  plain  we  come  to  poor  sandf  i 
tioiU,  whi-iv  I  wns  rcmintU'd  of  i))c  "ina<\ai$"  of  Cursicai 
Here  wero  the  OiKtiitt  or  Uuck  Kose,  the  prickly  Broom 
and  the  CytiiiiM,  both  in  tho  full  beauty  of  Ihvir  yi-llow 
btooin;  the  LoRliscnii,  also  iii  flower,  the  Cork  Onic,  the 
Ilex  or  erertrrccii  Oak,  but  not  the  Me'literraue^n  ileath, 
and  rarely  the  Myrtle.    Wherever  sanil,  sandstone,  or  niicji- 
ichist  np[>eRTe(l  near  the  surface  throughout  my  tntvoU,  tbitj 
peculiar  vegetation  also  appi-arcd  in  lull  luxuriance,  trans^' 
forminif  the  hill-sides,  as  in  Corsica  and  Sardinin,  into  a  very 
giinlun  of  yellow,  whito,  and  rose  blossoms.     This  same 
"  inw)ui>,"  n  wc  have  kccu,  coven  the  K«trelle  Mountains, 
near  Canoes  (mica-schist),  and  a  small  sandstone  tertiary 
rui-^o  in  the  Mentone  amphitheatre  (St*.  Lucia),  as  well  i 
Corsica  and  finrdinia,  and  vvidcntly  connceta  in  ft  moait  re- 
markable way  the  vegetation  of  the  South  of  Europe,  and 
of  the  entire  Mediterranean  biisin,  with  that  of  iJio  North 
of  Africa.     It  ij*  tJie  peeiilinr  vegelatiuii  of  the  entire  Attua 
nrnge  wherever  the  soil   is  formed   by  the  break-up  at 
primary  rock  ;  disappearing  on  calcareous  formations.     Ito 
presence  in  wild  liixuiiance,  and  its  >;encrjil  difappearanet] 
as  aoon   ds  the   nature   of  the  Koil   beoomes  cuicareoit*,] 
althout'h  dimate  oonditions  are  the  tame,  a  a  remarkalfl*! 
ilIii*lr:it)on  of  the  naliiTAl  adaptability  of  plants  to  ..-ertaia 
well -lie  II  nod  Huilii.     Aton^  with  tliono  plantH  al«o  appeared 
in  enat  prolusion  our  ^a"''^"  llower,  the  Phetaaatit't  Ey« 
(Adonis)  juat  comintf  into  bloom.     This  plant  is  evidently 
a  native,  and,  like  the  Silene  iieudula,  then  in  full  flower, 
is  found  tverywliere  in  Alperia, 

The  "  maqiiis,"  OrauntaiUn  th«  Frewcli  cidl  it,  gradually 
gave  way  to  vultivation  as  wo  rOM  above  t)iu  aca,  pi'iic- 
trating  into  the  lower  laountain  ranges.  The  fCabyli'S  who 
inhabit  tbeec  Riountains,  arc  numerous,  and  are  a  labviiona 


k 


«  H  2 


582 


ALOKRIA, 


nftriculliiral  race,  tilling  the  ground  with  grcni  jtVill  ai 
i II liO licence.  They  have  ouly  ret-eittly  been  sul>juifflt«tl 
tlio  Frvnch,  nnd  aiipcitr  to  have  cultivated  Uivit  <ii>uittry  : 
thio  nay  rrum  tinio  iminvmuriul.  The  inminUMii  >lof 
and  valleys,  which  cunstittito  the  Kahyha,  are  oovcnd 
tvilh  much  ^^od  und  fertile  soil;  they  aro  dotted  with 
deniwly  inKiibited  vi]lii;;i's,  luul  uiv  ii  iicunv  of  iiinvcr»id 
luxuriance.  Coru  ci»veW  the  slojiea  whercvec  the  land 
odmita  of  its  bein<;  (^rowti,  and  the  Fi;;  and  Olive  treo  are 
■eon  everywhere.  Sheltered  rn)m  tJic  north  wa-hrern 
1>y  the  shore  motiiitainfl  or  hilU,  both  the  Fig  aod  Olive 
tree  attain  an  cnormmia  fizo,  nnd  are  much  finer  than  at 
Al(>icni.  Hut  the  Oiive  igi  uUvnyit  mien  on  the  ■ic.>uth  aide 
iif  the  hills,  seldom  or  never  on  the  north.  The  fruit  of  the 
Fig  is  one  of  the  principal  elements  of  food  in  the  south, 
anil,  iit  u  late  himinc,  cnuxvd  hy  a  yearM  droutfht,  and  l>v  a 
Kprin^  inviuinn  of  louustci  fnim  the  Desert,  it  ooulrihiitcil 
to  nave  the  Kahvles.  Tlic  fint  cri>p  was  deeiroyed  by 
locusts,  hut  a  second  crop  Ibrmed  and  was  saved.  Mi 
Mountain  Axhitu  are  aUo  aeon,  both  in  the  Kabylia  moul 
liiiiiN  and  nil  over  Aliieria.  This  tree  ia  evidently  culttvnt 
for  ila  shade  and  its  timber,  but  <;rows  wilJ  in  Ihe  lliicke 
It  seems  very  hanly,  fjrowing  with  as  great  Itixuriiiiiuo 
the  phiins  na  at  5000  feet  hi^h  on  the  aides  of  the  Atla 
and  does  not  appear  particular  as  to  soil.  The  Kabyt 
lieiiii;  tiood  M»>»nlnians  and  not  driokinif  wine,  bava 
planted  the  Vine.  Itaueeeedti,  however,  very  well  in  Al^r 
Olid  is  pliinted  wherever  they  go  by  the  wine-drinkii 
French,  The  Kiihyle  villa^^eit  are  (rcncrully  surrunndl 
with  groves  of  the  Upuiitia,  or  llarbury  Fig,  urhioh 
found,  except  on  the  hii;her  mountains,  thruu^hout  Al^ 
The  HtrcJims  and  rivi-m  are  friniied  on  both  sides 
the  Oleander,  or  Itusc  Luiire),  and  by  the  Tamaritk. 
Oleander  furms  dense  huBbes,  which  are  very  loi 
*vhen  in  Sower.  It  lioM,  in  mortt  or  leca  abundance  nt 
of  the  mountain  water^oun>oa  in  the  Alia*,  bcoomill 
more  and  more  luxuriant  as  we  ndvanee  inland, 
^marialc  is  ita  laithfid  coiupiinion,  for  they  (jeneralji 
appmr  to^tlier  i  on  thi^  mora  inland  HtreauiH  the  Tac 
mk  hecomea  ijuite  a  tieo.     Thus*  two  planta  are  evident 


KABYLIA — TI2I-0UZ0U, 


533 


indigenous  to  the  country,  as  is  our  old  and  irrqiTesaibla 
friend  the  Blackberry,  which  here  iw  elst-whei-a  ^L-li}fht«i 
in  all  KoiU,  in  nil  iiHitudc*,  luxuriaUit  in  the  plains  »t  th« 
foot  of  Mount  AlIsM,  in  Lhu  viiiieyit  on  his  siilo,  afloends 
to  hU  summit,  and  probably  deaoenda  into  the  desert.  I 
often  anw  it  climbiut;  over  the  LcntUciut  nnd  other  biinhos, 
and  even  vntwinini;  itc  bnuiclieM  nmong  the  pridkltw  of  tlw 
Barbary  Pi^,  whidi  no  other  plant  or  climber  seemed 
aiiiliivinus  enou};h  to  do.  This  vr»a  more  Mpocially  the 
CMC  at  Tiii-onzou,  where  we  utopjivd  to  dine  and  uteep  t'l*, 
6rst  day.  There  wim  a  perfect  foreit  of  Opuntiiis  ruunif 
the  Kabyle  part  of  the  village  or  town.  The  Smilax,  Uie 
Cletnatto,  the  Wild  Vine,  are  common,  afl  on  tho  Riviera.^ 
and  in  the  MeilitL-mnean  ieli>ndi>  ^ni.^r>lly.  I  rvpc.iUtdly 
found  the  Hawtliorn  in  wild  mouiitnin  regions,  when:  it 
could  not  have  been  planted,  exoept  bv  birds,  in  full 
bloom ;  birds  scatter  over  large  areas  lite  eoeit  of  llio 
plants  they  feed  on. 

The  asoi-nt  t'ri>m  ihe  plaiim  wliii^h  oooipy  tlie  eastern 
sliore  of  the  Hay  of  Aljiiers  is  very  fllt){ht  until  the  pusa 
of  tlic  Di'ni-Ai<-lia  is  reached,  tliirlr-lwo  miles  fron 
Alf^ers.  Here  Kabylia  Iw^inti,  and  the  im|w«ing  ma«s  of* 
the  Jurjura  mountains  meets  the  eye.  lioth  the  Romans 
and  the  Turks  had  a  fortress  in  this  position,  as  a  defeiiee 
Hgninfit  thu  inroads  of  the  raoiinlainoers.  IVo  river',  the 
Iwer  and  the  Djemn,  are  crosxed,  an  nlfo  the  fert  il<;  but 
little  cultivated  plxins  throui;h  whioli  lliey  run,  and  the 
roiid  ifradoally  ascending  readies  'INzi-ouzou,  au  imiiortatit 
military  station,  sixty  milee  from  Algiers.  We  arrived  at 
six  u'clock  in  the  afternoon,  having  elarted  ut  eight  fmm 
Algiers,  and  liavinf*  »toji|>ud  un  hour  to  lunvh  and  to  olian:;!} 
horses  at  the  IK-ni-Aieha  pass.  We  found  a  tidy  little 
tioli'l  with  clean  beds,  and  whilst  dinner  was  geUitig  rcuidy 
sallied  forth  to  make  otir  olicervntioiis. 

Tizi-ouzou,  like  Rotii>.\ichii,  wua  a  military  |>04t  in 
the  days  both  of  the  Komans  and  of  the  Turks  It  was' 
thi-ir  advunced  pust  in  Kabylia,  and  the  Turkish  fort, 
that  occiipiea  tlw  brow  of  the  bill  on  which  the  villaga 
stands,  was  built  on  Kontan  luina.  The  Kreneh  army 
took  possvesiuu  of  it  in  li^a,  greatly  strengthened  it,  ana 


534 


ALGERIA. 


founiled  s  military  vi1Uft«  in  1S5H.    The  fort  has  now  <■ 
the  baildingfl  required  for  a  garrison  of  a  tboasaiid  iiic 
and  addilionnl  outworkit  pmU-ct  lb«  villagu  totw  io  mgui 
it  from  a  surprise.     The  uori-miliUirv  poputatiuit  ooittpriB 
about   two   huDdred   Kuropean   innkeepers,   tradeeiieopli 
and  (-uloiiinU.     Ill   tho  iramtdiiiU;  viuitiily  of  Uie  Fri'm 
RetUi-'inunt  thcro  it  ttill  a  poimlou"  Kiibjie  viUayi*,  wbit 
we  examined  wilb  interest. 

M'e  wore  ebown  over  it  by  a  youiif;  Kabyle  mho  voIud- 
Ipoiih!  liiK  eurriei-e,  and  fuund  cvrry  one  very  civil  and  coij 
dial,  even  liie  women  Kbowing  but  bulv  Hbjiiefld.  'i'hvy 
tint  made  a  preleiioe  of  covering  tbeir  facea  vrilb  a  oorti< 
of  their  wide  ^evve«,  but  soon  gave  it  up  laaffhin(;ly, 
liapA  bevuujto  w«  hnd  ladi^^s  with  its.  Some  of  ibc  yu(m«, 
women  were  really  pretty,  and  loukvd  quite  praceli' 
BtniidiD^,  reoliuiog,  or  equntlini;  at  the  entrance  of  titi  _ 
DaUne.  These  calling  arc  built  of  ^tono  and  morl.ir,  tbe 
better  class  ruoPL-d  with  tik'«,  ihc  otliuru  thut;h<.tl  wttb  vnnv^ 
Wk  went  into  several,  am)  I'ound  ihcm  nil  erected  on  tll| 
aame  piinciple,  the  Kuntcrn  une,  a  courtyard  inside,  ui 
covered,  into  wbiob  opens  tlie  dwelling,  and  ronnd  whk 
arc  outhouses  and  sheds,  with  no  externnl  windows 
o|«'ninjfS  for  vuiitilnti'in .  Tbc  inleriur  wiis  coiiKtq'icittly 
very  Btufry  and  clogie;  alth"u::b  clean,  Uiey  were  too 
vcniibted  to  be  bctaltby  dwelltnj^s. 

The  next  day  we  started  early,  and  in  less  than   foil 
hours   reached    ibc    Fxrt    Napoleon,    pimiilg    tbrou^li 
rolling  hilly  district,  the  luxuriant  ve^fetation  of  tvbielt . 
have  alreadv  described,  and  within  sight  of  many  Kabjrl 
viliuf^i?'*.     Tbo   Kaliylfs   beiii;*  sedeniary  and  tied  to  ill 
ground  by  own«r*bi)>,  L*vcry  ini-h  ix  eullivateil,  and  scar 
a  weed  ia  to  be  seen.     This   tai^t  explains  the  de«per*)j 
ener^^y  with  wbicb  they  defended  themselves  in  past  «nj 
present  times.     They  wcri!  ligbting  pro  aru  el  /orit, 
their  land,  tbeir  home*,  tiK-ir  wives,  and  tbeir  ehilditii] 
driven  away,  thev  bad   no  resources.     Tbey  had   neitlie 
horses,  n6r  camels,  nor  tents,  nor  had  tJiey  the  habita  i 
nomiidii;  tribes.     They  could  not  take  down  ibcir  dwullinf!, 
iiml   ily   before  the  enemy  ii»  th«!  Arnlw  could ;  so  tliej 
Ibu^bt  to  conquer  or  die.     These  tnounlaiueers  gave  llt^ 


FORT  KAPOLBON— rne 


"BUREAU  ARABS." 


535 


French  more  trouble  thiin  nil  the  ruat  of  Algei 
together,  and  it  b  only  within  tho  toat  t«n  years  t)i 
have  been  subjiifiateu,  and  that  they  have  ocknowlu 
the  French  mli-  imd  authuritj. 

Fort  N:i])«Ieo»,  «i'Vi>nty-five  mile*  from  Algiew,  wnsWiIt 
in  IW»7  by  MArahal  lUiidon,  altera  Bucce^siul  campai^o  io_ 
Kahylim.  It  oeciipics  the  brow  of  a  mountiiiii  at  int  v\vv» 
tiaii  of  270(1  feet,  und  ronsi«tji  of  a  wall  with  iK!V(>ntceft1 
bnttiona  surrounding  an  area  of  liTtOO  srjiure  foel.  Within 
titiii  itn-n  ura  nil  the  buildin)>«  and  appliances  neceesury  for 
a  gurri»on  ef  Mcveral  thousand  men  in  cute  of  need.  It  i* 
Id  the  centre  of  the  riohewt  and  mo^tt  pi>piili>ii§  part  of 
Kabyha,  and  w>  effectually  awed  the  nKiiiiiiEiiniers  into 
•ubnii^ion  Ihnt  there  were  no  rebellions  after  it«  ovitstruo- 
tiun,  until  the  year  of  the  German  wur. 

Theiie  rirei'ntly  nuhdued  mitlying  n-gionit  of  Algeria 
^verned  by  what  is  culled  the  Uureaux  Arabee.  OfHei^ra,^ 
miwt'Tt  of  the  Arab  lan<^iii^e,  are  entruitud  with  the 
maniigem<.-nt  of  eeriain  diHtnt-t«  with  whtcH  they  ure  cx- 
peole<l  to  make  thennelve*  thnronahly  ao(|tiiunttr<I.  They 
see  to  the  levying;  of  the  tai  ortribiit-.  priuL'ipally  boHeJ^ 
on  the  payment  by  the  owner  of  a  certain  lixetl  iiinimnt  fai 
€ii«li  head  of  uitle.  They  aim  fiit  iw  jiiilg-'*  in  all  eivtl  and 
uriminul  com*,  UMoiiiU'd  by  tlie  hea<I»  of  vilUgva,  who  act 
84  a  kind  of  jury,  eooti  in  turn.  We  made  tlie  aei]<uiin(a»ce 
of  the  iRtelliKent  olfieer  who  was  then  acting;  iiti  the  heai] 
of  tin-  Itiin-aii  Arabe  at  Fort  Xapidcon,  and  oblained  mueh 
interesting  inl'<>nn:ili>m  frum  him.  Tiie  ihinitiuii  i*  clearly 
oneof  ^reat  Iruatand  power,  rei|uirini;discrcli<iii,jiiili;ineut, 
activity,  and  firmnOM.  HewoficonsUintly,  lietai'l,(>bli;^>It<> 
Jiintp  into  tlie  naddle,  und  lu  ride  fifteen  or  Iweiily  milw  or 
more,  to  iiu)>i-rintcnd  in  |>cniDn  the  arrentofsoiMeenminal,  or 
to  Iin<l  oat  fraud  and  deception.  The  Arab§  and  K;ibylM,  al- 
tht>u^h  mo«t  fuwnint;anil  flnttcriu)*  in  their  ii|>cech  to  their 
conqueror):,  arc  full  of  ■(■cr>^t  aniinoiity,  have  iii>  re-rard 
whatever  for  truth,  and  think  it  n  positive  merit  t<>  deceive, 
in  any  wav,  both  ea<;h  other  Mud  Ihcir  French  niiifitcrs.  Ktich 
K.iIm1c  tiIU<^  is  gy>vernod  by  a  ovunet)  electitl  by  uiiiventul 
piutfrage  ymrly,  and  the  oonnni  ittelf  i»  pre*i<U>d  by  the 
(Ijumuta,  or  mayor,  who  i»  cliowu  by  it»  memUnt.    All 


536 


ALGERIA. 


ininnr  qHCtitions,  xni]  all  sul>j«ct«  oonncclcd  witli  govcrtimetit 
and  >IiHd|)liii(>,  on^  Omded  liy  this  viUiigc  inrliaincnt,  wilhaut 
refcrencv  u>  the  Itureuu  Amhe.  Hut  all  ecrious  nistl^rs  nrv 
sulHuittcd  to  the  latt«r,  aiiJ  any  Kabylo  who  wUhos  is 
nlluwctl  to  n^ft-r  a  ;>ri«VDiice. 

I  n-rnn  1(>1il  by  my  inrdrmAtit  that  it  is  the  policy  af  tlie 
Government  to  leave  to  the  Kubylei*  the  uMnaj^ineut  of 
their  own  affiiirs,  Imt  to  puii»h  crime  and  viok-iioc  whcrwer 
it  iilinwti  itself  in  their  jiiriMliction,  havini;  u  due  regard 
Tor  the  fi'elings  and  cvvn  the  )krejudic«8  of  tliof«  who  Mir- 
round  tliera.  Thuit,  a  younj;  Kabyle  wife,  hrulalibxl  by 
her  husband,  liiid  recently  niii  nwiiy  with  a  •oldicr,  iitid  t 
hnab&iid  had  iippHed  to  Fort  Xaixileon  for  aaaiclaiice 
oatoh  the  fiii^tives.  This  was  k'v^"i  '^^^  ^'i^y  '"■''  *'hi 
nifrlit  I'rt^'vi'XHi  been  found  and  brought  biiek  to  Ihe  For' 
The  wil'v  had  Wen  restored  that  morning;  to  lier  hiislMU 
lutd  tlio  fdldicr  put  in  {>ri«u»  to  be  judfted  aud  piiniMli' 
The  wife  would  tiui|ueHtionaMy,  I  waa  informed,  be  shot  ui 
the  tray  home  by  lier  Kabyle  husband,  in  acoordanee  wt' 
their  eustoms,  but  the  French  authorities  could  »ot  proti 
hiT  witboiit  interfering;  witli  the  duniwtio  righto  of  the 
con'jtiered  jxtiiile.  The  l)u>liund  had  u  ri^rht  to  hin  ninuwa^^^i 
wife,  so  she  was  ^fiveri  ui)  to  him,  retjardless  of  const-riutinoou^H 
If  a  crime  was  committed,  it  would  be  pnnished  lat«l^4 
It  would  npi>e»r  that  most  of  the  aESiisniuutioun  uud  Crimea 
a^ainitt  the  jierAcin,  in  thi»  country,  have  their  ori^jin  in 
jealousy  and  oxarreU  about  women,  as  in  Coreiea  and  Sar> 
dinia  The  Kabyles  are  a  more  monil,  ne  well  its  u  mure 
doTHftttc,  race  than  the  Arulw,  and  neldum  liave  more  tJiuu 
one  wife.  If  »  wife  telU  her  husband  that  any  un«  has 
insulted  her,  be  takes  his  ^un  and  shoots  the  enn|)osod 
olFender  wilhout  furtlier  inquiry.  This  custom  pvea  a 
terrible  power  to  the  wouieu,  a  jwwer  no  doubt  often 
misused.  The  Kubyles  buy  their  wive«  tor  so  many  hca<l  of 
cuilli-,  or  HO  much  money.  Many  of  the  youn^  men  ex]ni- 
trinte  thrmselvea,  g:t>in^  to  Algieraur  the  oilier  plain  tuwnit 
to  tvurk  as  lalmnrers  until  they  have  nuqnireil  tin:  ni-cM«ary 
sum.  Tlien  they  return  to  their  villB([u,  buy  a  wife,  au' 
Kettle  down  furlife,  juxtao  mountaiiHwrs,  Swiw,  Auver^iat 
aud    others    act  in   KurojH',   cxceptinj;   the    nile-buyinj 


THE  JUBJURA  MOUNTAINS — AN  ARAB   FAIR  537 

We  were  shown  by  the  officer  of  the  Biirean  Arabe  a  large 
GoveromeDt  workshop  where  all  kinds  of  mechanical  trades 
are  taught  to  Kaliyle  apprentices,  carpenteriD<r,  foiling, 
cabinet  work,  blauksmith's  and  locksmith's  work.  The 
intention  is  to  propagate  a  knowledge  of  these  various 
handicrafts  amongst  the  mountaineere,  who  have  a  natural 
ability  for  all  kinds  of  mechanical  labour  ;  in  every  village 
there  are  many  who  follow  the  various  mechanical  trades. 
The  Kabyles  arc  all  Mussulmans,  and  like  the  Arnbn,  have 
amongst  them  many  Marabouts,  or  holy  men.  The  quality 
of  Marabout  is  a  family  distinction  which  descends  from 
father  to  son,  and  even  the  female  members  of  these  sacred 
families  are  treated  with  marked  deference.  These  Marabout 
Jamilies  have,  probably,  ail  originated  with  some  sanctitied 
individual  wlio  did  not  consider  celibacy  to  be  a  necessary 
feature  of  his  holiness. 

After  restinsT  a  couple  of  hours  at  Fort  Napoleon,  wo 
returned  merrily  to  Tizi-ouzou,  in  little  more  than  half 
the  time  we  had  taken  to  ascend.  There  is  nothing  pre- 
cipitoHP  or  dinitult  to  surmount  in  this  part  of  the  Jurjura 
mountains.  The  elevatfd  peaks,  stilt  covered  with  snow 
(April  20),  the  precipitous  heights,  the  dark  glens,  are 
constantly  in  view,  giving  grandeur  to  the  siiene,  but 
they  are  further  on,  beyond  the  fort,  which  seems  to 
be  at  tlitii  base,  although  nearly  ihree  thousand  teet  high. 

We  again  slept  comfortably  at  Tizi-ouzou,  and  the  next 
morning  started  betimes  for  the  return  to  Algiers.  At 
the  junction  of  the  road  to  Dellya,  a  town  on  the  coast, 
we  found  an  Arab  fair,  which  gave  us  a  good  opportunity 
of  studying  the  Arab  type  and  Arab  ways.  These  faira 
are  encouraged  by  the  French  authorities,  and  frequently 
take  place  at  the  principal  stations;  we  repeatedly  came 
across  them  in  our  travels.  Hundreds  of  Arabs  come 
from  all  quarters,  an'l  tents,  large  anil  small,  are  raised  for 
cotfee  drinking,  and  for  the  sale  of  all  kinds  of  eatables 
or  of  articles  of  daily  use.  Cattle,  horses,  mutes,  and 
osen  change  hands,  sheep  are  slaughtered  and  sold,  and 
a  vast  amount  of  quiet  talking  seemed  to  be  going  on.  It 
is  a  singular  sight,  hundreds  of  swarthy,  olive-laced, 
black-eyed  Arabs,  wrapped  in  tiieir  bournous,  with  turban 


588 


ALGBRfA. 


and  undals,  ernveW  walking  abonl,  in  Oicir  own  conni 
it  H  Inn-,  liui  subJucd,  conquered,  civiliutil  by  tlio  bat 
pill  IX  ir. 

A  little  furtlwr  on  we  canw  upon  a  caravan  of  At 
and  camds,  etoppini;  to  reffCBh  nt  a  rundsido  inn,  We  ha 
rv|)t)ulMlly  met  ilruvcK  of  t'mm  two  t<>  a  doz4!n  camvlx  in  tlii 
|>lwM  near  Alj^itrm,  m-mt?  bcuvily  laden,  otlierfi  awinc^ng 
nloii^  at  a  ftliarp  trot,  witU  the  Arab  driver  perched  liigh 
lip  on  their  Imcke.  tior  did  snythtnt;  thnt  wc  euw,  not 
vxi;vptii)>;  tin-  riilmK  nl'  tin;  Alsjiitw  Jurdiii  d'K«sa),  giv»  • 
inorv  Uupii-ii]  and  uri>>ntal  hue  to  Die  country  we  were  in. 
On  this  occAsion  we  tfot  out  o(  the  carriai;e,  mounted  the 
cwmd*.  ttif  Utter  kni^f  ling  for  uur  nmiuut  and  di-»<X'nt.  o 
tried  iJirii  walk  an<l  trot.  We  were,  however,  very  glad 
ft^l  down  a^aiii  ;  the  licight  from  the  i;round  i»  too  m 
to  he  plc^iKiiiit,  and  tliuniolion  is  anythiiiK  hut  a<>reeable, 

'I'liit  evening;  wc  wore  Hf^iin  iit  our  eomfortiibli^  <|iib 
111    AI[ii<-r>i,   having    neoomplishcil    the   journey   In   Foi 
Niipoli'on  and   limk,  H5  kilonietr^v  eiuih  way  (150  miles 
iu  all),  easily  and  iileasaiitly  in  thteu  days. 

Th«  next  nioniin^f  I  devoted  to  a  hu't  ramble  in  tli« 
old  vtreels  of  AIgiL-r»,  and  saw  the  Kadhah  or  Joey's  [wlaoe, 
a  wrelchvd  burn-like  place.  We  were  khown  a  litlU 
wooden  room  al  llie  top  of  the  hcuite,  loukttijj;  on  the 
inner  couil,  where  the  IX'y  gave  to  the  t'leneh  oouvut 
the  fatal  tap  nith  ii  fun  which  led  to  hie  doinil'idl,  to  tl 
debt  motion  of  the  power  of  the  Turkx  in  Algeria,  and 
the  eBtahlishment  of  the  sway  of  a  European  and  ChriHi 
Uation  over  »  gr«.>Ht  piirt  of  the  noitu  const  of  Afriei 
Thas  it  is  thnt  grvat  thing*  have  0lU>n  Mmnll  bet-innings. 

We  «Urted  that  afWninon  for  the  excursion  toTinie' 
Il&d  and  the  Cedar  forettt,  on  the  frontiers  of  the  Algtifji 
Dewtrt,  leaving  Algiers  with  rugrtt. 


AhOlKW  TO   BLIDAII,   HtLlAXAII,    TKylKT-Kl-HASO,     AXO 

CKDAit  roitEar. 

The  railroad  from  Algierw  to  Ulidali  turnt  round 
raMern  extremity  of  the  S.itiel  hills,  a  few  milM  firtiia 
towu,  vkirtK  iheir  eouthcru  Ir.ue  for  about  fllluun  miles,  i 


THE  MITIDJAH — BLIDAH.  589 

then  crogses  the  Mitiiljah.  The  Mitidjah  is  the  low  plain 
compFised  between  tlie  Sabel  or  coast  bills,  and  the  foot 
of  the  Little  Atlas  ran^.  It  was  the  Beat  of  exuberant 
fertility  in  the  days  of  the  Romans,  but  sulisequent 
possessors  allowed  it  to  fall  into  a  state  of  nature.  The 
rainfall  of  the  mountains  which  limit  it  to  the  south,  pre- 
vented by  the  Sahel  hills  from  passing  directly  to  the  sea, 
formerly  saturated  its  entire  extent,  and  made  it  an  un- 
healthy marsh.  But  since  the  French  took  possession  of 
Algiers  they  have  been  steadily  drainiuv  and  reclaiming 
this  really  fertile  pl%in,  at  great  expenditure  of  money  and 
life,  and  have  succeeded  in  rendering  a  considerable  portion 
of  it,  especially  the  higher  ground  near  Blidah,  both  fertile 
and  healthy. 

As  soon  as  the  railroad  has  placed  the  Sahel  hills 
between  it  and  the  north,  the  advantage  of  protection  is 
at  once  apparent.  The  Olive  trees  are  more  numerous 
and  finer,  Orange  and  Lemon  trees  appear,  and  it  becomes 
ctt;ar  thut,  with  cultivation,  a  much  more  luxuriant  and 
southern  ve<;etation  can  be  obtained  on  this,  ttie  southeru 
elope  of  the  Sahel,  than  is  seen  on  the  northern  or  Alge- 
rine.  The  plain,  part  scrub  (Chamffirops,  Lentiacus, 
Cistiis,  Sijuill),  part  cultivated,  is  crossed  by  a  gentle  rise 
towards  the  biise  of  tiie  Atlas,  until  Ulidah  is  reached  at 
an  eleviition  of  about  500  feet.  Protected  from  the  wind 
of  the  Desert,  or  scirocco,  by  the  Atlas,  from  alt  northern 
winds  by  the  Sahel,  on  rising  ground  which  pi-eventa 
stagnation  of  moisture,  with  good  deep  soil,  and  abundance 
of  welter  for  irfigation,  Blidah  (lat.  30°),  and  that  part  of 
the  Mitidj.ih  which  surrounds  it,  present  every  necessary 
element  of  fertility,  and  have  become,  since  the  French 
occupation,  a  very  garden  or  orchard  of  agricultural  pro- 
ducts— cereals,  grasses,  Vines,  fruit  trees.  It  is  here 
for  the  first  time  that  the  Orange  tree  appears  in  real 
luxuriance.  There  are  groves,  thickets  of  Orange  trees, 
some  several  hundred  years  old,  covering  nearly  SnO  acres 
of  ground,  and  producing  excellent  fruit.  But  even  here 
these  orchards  are  protected  from  north  winds  by  walls  of 
tall  pyramidal  Cypresses  a  foot  apart.  The  Oranges  are 
renowned  all   over  Algeria   and   France,  and  their  very 


640 


ALOERU. 


vuperior  qunlity  slioww  thai  th«  Orange  ttft  i»  capalile  of 
being  chIUvbIsi]  mij-wlii-rn  in  (lie  lower  plains  of  Ali;eru 
with  sHCcen,  alwave  provided  it  be  proUictoil  from  north 
winds,  or  indeed  any  wind,  and  that  lliare  be  preiteut  good 
eoil  itnd  wntcr.  This  is  tlie  only  jioint  of  Algeria  where  I 
found  any  Oraiigt*  trvcH  to  be  rorapared  in  point  of  s\xa  9^m 
beauty  with  tlioae  of  the  sun-warmed  and  Elielli'rfd  OvnMl^H 
Hiviera.  Elsewhere  they  are  only  nn,-t  wiOi  lu  i»ola1ea 
cpcciinitiis,  and  llir*c  seldom  in  a  Hutirisbini;  s1at«.  At 
Airier*,  if  of  any  wan,  Iht-y  are  hidden  behind  houen, 
and  planted  in  well-like  declivities;  cviik'ntly  the  winter 
north  winds  «r«  too  miif^h  for  them.  The  Lemon  treea 
are  also  numeroua  and  licnlthy  at  Dlidah,  but  neither  m 
large  nor  as  luxuriant  as  on  (he  north  shore  of  the  Riviera, 
■bout  Monaco,  Mentone,  and  San  Itemo.  At  Hlidiih  I 
raw,  an  at  Al>j:ieni,  many  healthy  Aloe*  planted  along  llie 
roadnide,  but  they  arc  not  oHco  met  with  away  fyom 
Altricre. 

From  Dlidah  I  made  an  enoiirsinn  to  the  vadley  of  the 
ChifTa,  a  most  picturesque  delt  or  deep  ravine  in  the  tint 
Atlas  ranf-ir.  through  which  pass  the  ChifTa  river  and 
ttie  military  road  to  Atc'deah.  Thix  deep  and  narrow 
Valley,  with  its  small  river  brawling  at  the  bottom.  Mm* 
fifty  leet  below  the  road,  with  ndes  l&OO  feet  hif^i,  is  i»o«t 
pifturesipic,  and  resombU-K  the  description  given  of  the 
Abyxsiniai)  vHlleyft  traversed  by  our  troopit  in  the  late  war. 
The  road  was  made  by  suldien,  like  most  others  in 
Algeria,  and  was  a  very  difficult  undertaking.  Abont  tlirM 
miles  from  the  eiitranci;  i«  a  tributary  uln-am,  roaring 
down  a  side  valley,  whivh  1  viHitcd  with  intense  interest. 
The  sides  of  the  main  valley  are  clothed  more  or  lees 
densely,  iiecording  to  the  debtee  of  avelivilv,  with  the 
Chamierop*  Palm,  Lentinciw,  Uroom,  Cyliiius  Wild  Olive, 
Curonha,  ('ork  Ouk,  Ilex,  Aleppo  I'ini:;  whilst  the  l>ed  of 
the  stream  is  fringed  witJi  Oleander,  Tamarisk,  and  Willow 
then  in  full  leaf.  The  vegetation  of  the  tributary  gorge, 
called  tlic  Monkey  Torrent  from  the  number  of  monkeye 
that  inhaliil  il,  ts  nlill  more  hisuriant.  In  addition 
to  the  Irees  and  shrubs  named  I  found  the  Weepin-j 
Willow,  Thi^a  articuhila,  Laurtis  Apollo,  Celli«  australia, 


TAU.EY  OF  CHCTPA— VEOETATION— MONKEVa.  541 


Viburnum  Ion fp folium,  Ericn  arlmren,  oil  freely  watered 
hy  iin  uUiimUiit  slrvam  of  iTv^tjtl  u-aWr  riuhii)||;  over  tlie 
roL'kti,  and  bound  in  one  inestric4ible  mass  by  a  bost  of 
climbing  piRiitF,  Wild  Vin«.  Clctniitif,  Smilux,  Blnvkberry, 
and  bixL  in  order,  nlthoii^b  first  in  beauty,  i»  power,  and 
in  nt'iid  luxurUnoe,  the  Inrjie-leaved  African  Ivy. 

Tliis  ivy  hnd  ^rown  with  8uch  vigour  in  thme  favoarabl* 
eonOitiona  of  beat,  moitturv,  and  nbade,  that  hi>i  trunk 
was  often  AS  Urge  as  that  of  the  tree  tbat  hi-  cmbmced. 
In  onc-h  cnncs  be  nppcared  to  tnku  compluto  poiisi-siiii >n  of 
the  true  wbtch  gain  him  mippnrt,  t»  clothe  «very  bruucli 
with  thiok  niABaes  of  dark  (clistening  verdure,  hanKi^S  <>* 
f^reeu  loops  and  in  inawes  of  f'ulingo,  from  limb  to  limb, 
until  the  identity  of  tbc  supporting  tree  wa.*  sbM>lut«ly 
lost  in  tiie  luxuriant  garb  of  bis  clinging  friend,  liiJeea, 
one  could  not  but  reHect  tbnt  titi-ie  m  »ueli  a  tbing  us 
\mnn  actually  ovt-rpowerod,  (■mot  be  red,  by  the  nffeetiunalfl 
flinirtng  of  H  friend.  Kext  in  luxiirianoe,  without  any 
doubt,  VIM  the  BUckWrry,  which  aoeiiKd  i-qtudly  to  revel 
in  thia  lovely  goi^,  eroating  buc-Ii  masses  of  braucbea  and 
foliage  that  they  fwmetiines  choked  the  ravine. 

Tlie  African  Ivy  is  a  vahiablc  variety,  for  altbough 
thus  de1i)*bting  in  nioioture  and  shade,  it  can  etiiud  th« 
;:lai'e  of  a  Getoe  eotitliern  sun  and  feel  oomfortablf.  It  is 
being  extoniivdy  ndnptvd  in  the  ganlenn  of  the  Kiviera 
on  that  account.  Under  the  shade  of  these  sbrnbo  nnd 
trees,  and  under  tbat  of  the  classical  Acanthus,  1  found 
for  the  firet  time  in  Algeria  banka  of  Lycopodium.  and 
quite  a  eolleciion  of  fern* ;  among  others  Scolojicndriuin, 
Aspleniuro  Adiantum-nigmm,  A.  Triobomanes,  A.  fon> 
tanum,  and  Gramitis.  In  the  ctintrc  of  this  bappy  vallejr. 
there  vtitu  a  Hmall  experimental  Tea  plantation,  twiabliohnl 
two  years  ago  by  Government.  The  pUnts  were  alive, 
but  did  not  look  very  nourishing.  Tbc  gardener  in  charge, 
however,  wiu  MuCiHiied  with  bin  success,  and  was  alwut  to 

Cut  out  a  large  number  of  additional  plants  wbiub  had 
ava  raised  in  frames  during  the  winter  at  Blidab.  As  an 
invliince  of  the  exuberant  growth  of  plants  in  this  warm, 
sheltered,  and  moist  valley  hu  showed  me  a  Huuulyplua 
globulus  tbat  had  grown  thirty  feet  in  two  yeurs. 


543 


AT/IERtA. 


1  niij  my  companioTis,  tvlio  had  arompnntei]  mo  from 
Btidah,  alt^r  visiting*  the  ravine,  liod  a  very  eiijoynUe 
repast  at  (he  littlo  itin  iit  thi>  enlrnniw,  al/i-etco,  in  n  pretljr 
urtMiir.  Vt'«  dined  tu  tho  mtirmiir  of  the  torrent  una 
aruid&l  the  chattflrin^  of  tlio  moiiki-yn,  who  did  not  sUnw 
themselvt-e,  howovur.  hiivin<^  n-linvi  for  tlio  nii;ht.  Th«7 
nrc  the  oitmu  kind  uf  moiiktiva  tliiit  inhabit  tUu  UibralUr 
rockii,  and  are  not  common  even  in  Alj^eiia. 

'I1i<3  next  stafire  wnii  a  ilrivv  of  ubmit  t<>rly  milvs  direct 
wc»t,  tliriiu^h  the  Mitidjuh  at  firet,  and  thi-ii  over  two  or 
tdree  low  Bjnim  and  ridges  of  the  Atlas  to  Milianah,  a 
rntlier  pietty  little  town,  Kittiatc-tl  2700  IVi't  uborc  tho  wn, 
on  an  esjdunnde  on  the  southern  slope  of  a  moiintiiin  at 
loMt  8»  many  feet  hij^tier.  Here  was  a<;nin  uviduncvd 
the  tdv^tiitiip.'^  of  |irot(-i;tii)n  from  tlie  norlh,  nnd  of  ex)to* 
rare  to  the  houih,  rrW  oonsideruble  nltitrntc.  At  >liiiniiiih, 
at  an  (rlevuliou  which,  even  in  this  latittide,  allows  snow  to 
lie  and  ioe  to  form  in  winter,  vegi-tatiou  was  mor^  advanced, 
owiiiir  to  the  eouthcrn  expoaurr,  than  at  Al;;teni.  In  the 
publie  i^rdcn  all  kinds  of  It/jaeo,  the  perpetiial  or  hylmd, 
as  well  us  Hank^in,  innltiflorn,  monthly,  nnd  Ik-nt;.il,  n'«ro 
in  full  nnd  liixiiriuiit  Idomn,  whidi  w;ih  by  no  m<-iins  th« 
cnw  at  Alffit-w.  A  (Iliromatello  lUwo  vnta  oov«ri-d  with 
hundieds  of  lai^e  blof«oms,  and  h:ut  elimbed  nil  over  a 
tree  to  a  height  of  thirty  fct^t;  1  kiiiv  nothioi;  like  it  in 
any  Tinrt  of  Algeria.  V'uriuus  other  y;arden  tlDwen  worg 
equally  in  advance.  From  the  terrace  of  this  garden, 
looking  full  nauih,  wc  saw  on  the  horiKon,  on  the  other 
Kide  ol  a  I'latn  til\«en  miles  aeroM,  and  1U(H)  feet  below  us, 
the  middle  ian}^c  of  the  Atlas  mountains,  risin;;  in  three 
miccesstvu  tii^r*.  Beyond  them  won  the  ffcvat  Al^rine 
Duert,  which  I  intended  ut  least  to  look  at  from  the 
•umniit  of  one  of  these  monntains,  as  I  had  not  time  to 
explore  it.  Here,  too,  wv  iound  tolerable  quarters  aittlj 
corlial  reception. 

Kurly  on  the  morning  of  the  25th,  de&cendine  inOO  fa 
we  crusBi'd  the  rich  valley  of  the  Chehlf,  which  takes  H 
name  from  the  river  eo  called.     Am  Htalt^d,  this  river  isf 
tiiigutur  feature  in  the  geography  of  Algeria.     It  nitvs 
the  la&b  vhain  of  the  Atlas,  on  the  north  bordere  of 


MUXiNAH — THE  OHELIPP  PLAIN.  543 

Algerine  Desert,  thus  showing  how  elevated  the  "  Hautfl 
Plateaux"  are,  passes  through  a  clePt  or  gorge  in  the 
Middle  Atlas,  rune  through  the  wide  valley  which  takes  its 
name,  and  finally  throws  itself  into  the  Mediterranean  east 
of  Onin,  after  a  course  of  160  miles.  It  thus  offers  a 
circuitous  funnel,  or  passage,  by  which  the  wind  of  the 
Desert,  the  south-east  or  scirocc-o,  can  and  does  pass  right 
through  the  mountains  until  it  reaches  the  fertile  plains  of 
the  provinces  of  Algiers  and  Oran.  Here  its  scorehing 
breath  in  May  or  June  occasionally  destroys  in  one  day  or 
night  the  most  magnilicent  crops. 

As  we  descended  from  Milianah  on  its  south  side  we 
found  most  luxuriant  cultivation — rich  orchards  of  Almond, 
Pear,  Cherry,  Mulberry  trees,  as  well  as  the  usual  Fig,  and 
abundance  of  pure  water.  At  first  I  thought  Milianah 
would  make  a  good  tvinter  sanitarium;  for  the  totva  is 
clean,  with  wide  glreets,  and  the  view,  both  noith  and 
south,  enchanting;  but  then  there  is  tlie  chance  of  a 
scirocco  lit  any  time  from  the  south,  even  in  winter,  and  of 
rain  and  t^nnw  from  the  north.  The  plain  is  evidently  a 
mine  of  agricultural  wealth,  as  evinced  by  the  depth  of  the 
alluvial  soil,  shown  in  the  furrows  made  by  the  water- 
courses. The  cultivated  patches  of  cereals,  numerous  near 
Milianah,  scanty  as  we  leceded,  were  very  vigorous  and 
healthy,  in  lull  ear.  There  were  no  trees  but  those  recently 
planted  along  the  road — Acacia  and  Carouba,  which  were 
doing  well.  After  crossing  the  Cheliff  plain,  about  fifteen 
miles  in  width,  we  began  to  ascend  the  ranges  of  the 
Middle  Atlas,  the  road  winding  through  deep  valleys  and 
over  easy  ridges.  In  one  of  these  valleys  we  stopped  at  a 
camvausail  called  Anseur-el-Louza,  to  lunch  and  change 
horses.  These  caravansails  are  fortified  stations,  or  farms, 
which  are  built  at  intervals  along  ail  the  roads  that  lead 
southwards.  They  are  military  posts,  as  well  as  farms  and 
inns  for  travellers,  and  in  the  days  of  war,  now  happily 
past,  were  strongly  garrisoned.  The  builjinga  occupy 
one,  two,  or  three  sides  of  a  large  square,  wliiijh  is  com* 
pleted  by  a  high  loopboled  wall.  There  are  no  windows, 
the  only  entrance  being  by  a  wide  portal  in  the  centre. 
Thus  shelter  can  be  givea  to  flocks  of  cattle  as  well  as  to 


5U 


ATXlFatlA. 


nil-     ' 

3^ 


men,    fiven  novr,  althnui^l)  pemce  reigna,  there  is  a  gnirS 
kept  in  eacli  ciirav.insiiil. 

In  t\ns  immodiaU  vteiiiity  were  a  number  of  militarjr 
tciit^  Iwlorig^iux  ta  a  ccira|Miny  of  soldier:),  working;  us  cm- 
vicU  an  tlie  rvad  and  1>ridt>e  tnakin<;.  Mjny,  evidently, 
from  thvir  Tiiir  Kkiii  nnd  linir,  were  nslives  of  the  n<irt)iui 
|iri>vitici-!t  of  FruhM.  Insubordinate  am)  troulileao 
soMicra  in  Fmnoe  ore  esili'd  to  At^^eria,  «nd  thew,  if  sti 
(innily,  are  thux  xent  in  (^n-^  t»  work  on  tlte  roiulii  in  ibu 
interior.  I  could  not  but  )>ily  tUem,  nllhougli  most  of 
them  looked  like  ra];^d  hyienaa.  Tbey  were,  probably,  the 
«cni>egnicvit  of  their  familie*,  who  not  W-ing  ublc  to  bosr 
sooial  realrainte  at  home,  had  taken  refit^  iu  the  army, 
there  to  find,  nut  indul;;cu«),  kindness  and  coneeesion,  u 
huretofore,  but  an  iron  di^'.-ifiline  to  which  they  mnot  bend 
or  be  ihemselveB  broken.  Uue  of  thete  men  helped  me  to 
patlier  some  branches  to  put  over  the  cairiai^e  to  ahiide  it 
from  tlio  sun.  I  ogkod  him  what  be  had  done  to  be 
He  nnxwercd,  "I  have  done  uathiiig  to  i>[H»ik  of, 
tliey  are  ferocious  out  there" — "  iU  aoni  j'^roee*  W  4i»#,' 
pointing  to  Alt^icTH,  I  f^ave  him  good  advic«,  wfftsi  him 
to  eiibinit,  [loiiitiiig  out  bin  utter  helplciu>nen!(  b.?fur«'  the 
law  and  his  military  auperiora.  This  poor  convict  HohiiL-r 
|;ave  utterance  to  a  feeling  whieh  I  have  oAon  thoiij;ht 
must  oppress  thoeo  who  Uavu  m-riiinjily  inrringed  th«  hiwa 
of  the  land  iu  wliieh  tliey  live.  Once  found  out,  there  u 
no  eecape  but  by  Hi^ht,  for  the  law  ia  truly  inexorable. 
And  then  the  lli;;ht  I  how  terrible,  when  every  munV  hand 
H  i^^nat  the  uul[)rit,  when  danger  is  everywhere.  It  is 
not  aurpri^iiiir  Ihiit  many  should,  after  a  time,  surrender 
thcniMelvex  of  iheir  own  acuiinl. 

\Ve  stopped  more  than  an  hour  at  the  cnravansail,  and 
lunched    under  the  shadow    of  a    vild  Olive   tive.     T 
shiidc  wiu  very  agreeable,  fur  the  sun  was  ardent,  and 
wind  had  niien   from  tlie  xouth  nnce  we   Icll  Milian 
blowing  direct  from  the  Desert,  now  very  near.     To 
■urjtrise    we    found    the    thermometer    marking    OV, 
although  veiy  hot,  owing  to  the  dryncM  of  the  uir,  t1 
heat  was  not  so  oppressive  as  it  ia  in  E-iglaud  wheu 
thi-rummeter  marks  Hi',     liut  it  manifested  its  iuUae: 


TAIXEY   OP  THE  flCORPIONS-^EKIEr.        545 


on  the  economy  Ity  profuse  in^nEpirntinn  on  the  »li»hte9t 
tflbrt,  iir  evitti  wilixmt.  Thct  luoulily  waa  very  |)ii:ttirei<que, 
a  •moll  alluviiil  {ilu!n,  ^rowiai;  luxuriant  urops  of  cluvvr  and  ' 
barley,  with  a  etrL-nm  of  cry§tal  water,  eotnc  t«n  feet  wide, 
roennilcnng  ut  the  hutloiu  of  tlic  valU-y  in  :i  thU^kct  of 
TamarUlc  and  Oleander.  On  tacli  .tide  were  the  sln)ies  of 
tlie  mountain  ridges,  sandstone  ond  g:ravel,  covered  with 
rock  ]ln«es  in  flower,  Maritimi)  Pines,  and  Ttinjii.  In 
the  middle,  Die  Riiuuru  fortitivd  atntion,  loopholed  for 
muakctrv,  with  th«  white  bell  t«ats  of  the  convict  eoldiere, 
and  of  thou-  guard. 

IIiTv  we  eat  for  some  time  rwHning  on  the  f^KB,  lut  if 
ive  had  becu  in  I'Jnghind,  for  ihvTu  wun  grun  on  tliv  ahudy 
Bide  of  the  tree,  and  feeling  intcnMly  the  atraiigvnesH  of 
our  situation,  in  the  bosom  of  the  Atbs  Mouiitfiiiif,  nithin 
B  fow  miles  of  the  great  and  niyst«riou§  Desert.  I  doubt, 
however,  whether  wc  were  prudent  in  thu»  lying  iiniong 
the  brushwood  in  northern  faiiiiioii,  for  utler  a  time,  my 
American  friend  espied  immethiug  moving  under  some 
twig»,  and  on  u  neurer  isurvey,  wo  found  that  it  was  a  UrgQ 
iKor[iion.  He  at  once  seized  a  stone,  and  ineontinintly 
smashed  him,  whereou  the  Ladies  declared  that  it  nm  time 
to  depart.  We  carried  enemies  awny  with  us,  however, 
very  veaomou*  unt«  I  believe,  fur  I  and  anotlicr  of  the 
party  were  so  severely  bitten  that  it  Uiuk  weeU^  u>  eflnco 
the  sligmales.  We  were  told  by  our  driver  that  tins  valley 
was  so  renowned  for  the  slse  und  tiuinlwr  of  tliu  6cor|)ion8 
that  inhabit  il>  that  it  is  culled  "  the  valloy  of  the 
KorjtioDs  [" 

The  rood  oontiniied  to  ascend  and  descend  mountain 
ridges  and  spuni  for  «oine  hours  more,  until  we  reachc 
our  dextinutiou  at  the  head  of  the  puss  in  thv  lut  rant 
Teuiet-el-II&d.  llie  rocks  and  soil  fnjni  the  Chelif 
plain  to  this  station  are  everywhere  sandstone,  gravel,  and 
miua-nuhixt,  and  the  vegetation  i»  all  but  identical  with 
that  of  the  ^ame  soils  in  Corsicit — Lentiscus,  Arbutus, 
Ilex,  Cork,  Oak,  very  large  wild  Olive*,  Aleppo  Fine, 
Juniper,  (ienista,  CyLisus,  Mountain  Iiavcnder,  Cistuu, 
white  and  rose,  Willow,  Smihix,  Mountain  Ash,  Asphodel, 
FerulJ,   Scilla   maritima;    Chamoirops,   Tbuja  arliculuta; 

K   N 


un 


ALGERIA. 


Olnnder  and  TamariBl:,  fringing  tlie  rivers  or  torrcufF. 
\V«  trr^Atly  ciijojrd  oiir  IciBiirfly  profirew  tlimtif;))  t)ii« 
lovi'Iy  nioiintiiin  wcncry,  dcKpHo  tli«  glow  of  a  wtutliprn 
mil),  mil]  tbe  moat  o)>iire8Bive  h^at  uf  ttie  soiruoco.  Our 
Dtteiition  wras  re])eate«ly  attracted  l>y  latfje  gniBHlio|)])pr- 
like  locuste,  wbicR  ll«w  aeroea  our  path,  niiil  uvea  into 
carrini^. 

Tcniel-el-Hft[l  is  a  fortified  military  outjiost  ami  station," 
OCoU|ti«)  by  a  garrison  of  3U0U  men — lUOII  catairy,  MiM 
infantry — vy  Uie  Fctllrre  wbo  mioii'tcr  to  tlivir  uiinte,  and 
I>y  a  lew  farmcrH  or  ralonista,  ax  ibe  l-Veiiili  ciiil  ihom. 
i?etiniutt^  it  to  be  4<I00  feet  liigli  by  tlits  burontftrr.     It  | 
eituati'd  un  a  neck  or  jxiss  of  the  Middle  Atlsi,  fnim  whie 
the  road  descends  into  the  A1<;oiine  Sniinra,  or  the  DcMrt 
of  An^'iid.     Tlie  Atla*  ijciiltn  in  tbe  vicinity  awend  ncaiij 
2(1*10    Ivel    lii<;ber.     Tbe   village    itwif    ]>n-«'nta    tiotliiir 
lemarkable,  merely  c^maistinK  of  barrjiekb,  stores,  a  f« 
oti4)'«toieycd  houses,  oceujiied  by  the  tradesmen,  and  a  vc  _ 
inferior  inn.     The  oivnor  is  ii  proFporons  colonist,  who  has 
a  laff^  corn   farm  five  miW  ftirtber  fiottth  towards   tbe 
Dcfwrt,  the  last  a^rteultund  settlement  luloiiffing  to  an 
European.     Teniet  is  the  centre  of  tbe  French   mtlitarj' 
power  in  this  T«f;i(in,  and  the  supi>ort  of  the  ;;atTi3i)nB  in 
the  oases,  and  of  tin-  Hying  unlumnit  in    Hie  Desert  due 
south.     There    are   similar  stations  all   along   the   more 
•nuthetn  ridges  of  the   Alias,  each  as  Uislcra,  Doghiir, 
I'iaret,  Saida. 

A  couple  of  mile*  to  the  vrcel  of  Teniet  there  ritwe  a  »oU« 
mountain  peak,  at  least  H'lOO  feet  higher,  Ibe  ltank>of  whtcti 
are  covered  by  a  tnagnilicent  Cedar  forest,  mneli  larger  an<t 
finer,  1  am  lold,  tbnii  that  wliidi  clothes  Mount  Lebanon. 
Wc  determined  to  devote  a  day  to  the  foivst,  and  after 
iin  early  breakfast  started  in  our  earriagi*,  uitb  some  nifl^l 
giving,  as  we  were  told  that  the  road,  a  mere  oart  road  fo^' 
timber,  wa<  »cnreely  praeticablc  to  a  carriage.  However, 
wc  managed  in  alwut  three  boura  to  aeoomplich  twelve 
miles,  which  brought  tlie  road  to  a  termiivation  in  the  verj' 
lieart  of  this  truly  mighty  forest.  The  road  ended  in  a 
woodland  amphitheatre,  surrounded  by  magnificent  Cedar 
treen,  carpet«d   by  a  velvet  turf  worthy  of  Erin,  with 


TUE  CEDAR  FOREST. 


547 


ftmall  pelluciil  Isko  in  the  centre.     Tlere  vre  round  n  pnrtyii 
of  FiCDcli  oflict-re  from  TeiiJot,  ciijovinff  n  picnic  brvnicfimt 
Mad  wore  nio&t  hoavititl))/  received  by  lliein. 

UetweeD  us  and  the  summit,  however,  between  us  and 
^ibe  view  of  ibe  Deeert,  there  was  still  a  mountnin  peak, 
[jiOO  feitt  nbove  where  we  wi-rc.  None  of  tho  ofilcerti,  or 
^Of  Ibe  workmen  auil  Uinbcr-eult«ra  had  been  up  it,  there 
DO  road,  and  the  eides  of  the  inoanlaiD  were  very 
But  we  were  determined  not  to  go  back  without 
[teeing  the  Derert  fiom  the  tup  of  Moiitil  Atlai*,  and 
liTareiv  commeiieed  the  anccnnion.  Kvciv  I  managed  to 
ecrauiMe  up,  in  due  course,  by  holding  the  barometer  in 
one  hand  and  rcBling;  five  minutes  every  hundred  feet  of 
■iOent.  Although  the  mountain  eidce  were  clothed  with 
•ucceMKive  tta^tt  of  grand  Cedurt),  wc  found  the  accent 
very  dillicult.  Ouce  at  the  Miminil,  we  were  amply  re> 
warded  lor  our  trouble  and  fati;^ie,  as  a  most  glorious  fight 
tras  unfolded  to  oar  view.  To  the  north  wem  the  grand 
old  Cedar*  covering  the  mountain  thmkii,  the  two  lower 
rid^s  wo  had  crossed  tlic  day  belore,  tlie  plain  of  the 
Cbeliff,  and  the  high  mountain  on  the  soiitii  side  of  which 
Milianuh  iH  i^itiiiitcd  ;  to  the  south  the  Desert. 

Tho  Cedar  tre«»  iit  our  fwt,  to  the  north,  were  most 

venerable  and  uiajealic,  and  roiie  iu   sucoeasive  layers  or 

stoget  orer  an  inimeobe  extent  of  the  mountain  side,  as  for 

I  as  the  eye  could  reach  east  and  west ;  for  they  cover  an 

I  area  of  QOOO  aere*.     As  tbcy  grow  old  they  tjirca^  out  their 

npper  branohea  ao  as  to  prcaent  a  re^lar  table  of  verdur* 

when  seen  fi-om  almve,     Many  of  these  green  table-like 

,  aumniils,  formed  hy  fiugle   trees,  nppeiir«d   large  enough 

JFto  admit  of  a  company  of  soldier*  hivouacking  on  tliem. 

Some,  cut  and  lyiut;  on   the  ground,  we  measured,  and 

found  that  they  were  from  twenty-four  feet  to  thirty  foet 

in  circumference,  or  from  eight  to  ten  feet  in  diameter. 

Tb«  fottst  belongs  to  Ouverument,  and  many  treeaare  bcin^ 

eut  dowu  to  make  sleepera  for  t)ie  railway,  a  ratber  sacri- 

tcgious  use  for  massive  lieams  of  Cedar  wood. 

The  ground  underneiilh  was  enamelled  with  flowera : 
llyauintlis,  Narcinsu*,  ItulU'rcnpti,  Rosea,  Daisies,  Pauaies ; 
whilst   the   Honeysuckle   and    Urarable  grew  vigorously, 

V  X  i 


548 


ALGERIA. 


often  from  MTitiw  in  oli]  Cccbre.  Pcrhnps  th«  mecT^of 
tlieM  plante,  bhe  Hawthorn  tvr  iiutance,  mnjr  liavo  \twt 
bTOught  \>y  some  bird  of  paasmge  front  the  Tar  iiortli 
for  I  rocognitwJ  the  note  of  birds  thjtt  regnlsrljr  visit  t^ 
Pino  woods  nf  Surrey  ilunng  th«  Hummer.  Snow  still 
filM  the  rikvinfis,  £00  or  HQQ  feet  from  the  «iiminit,  whilst 
the  therraometer,  oven  at  Teniet,  waa  SG"  when  we  lulV. 
^Vo  heard  the  cuckoo  sini>,  nnd  saw  many  jay^  and  ruvetix. 
There  were  many  deciduous  Oiiks  of  comiderable  siz^t, 
juKl  beginning  to  put  forth  their  new  K'uvea.  In  a  word, 
whtlnt  sitting  under  the  »liade  of  the  Cedara,  aiid  looking 
into  the  Great  Desert  of  Sahara,  wa  were  surrounded  by 
the  vegetation  of  nn  Kni^lish  wood  in  May,  and  at  the 
Hummit  enjoyeti  the  delightful  cnolncNR  of  iin  Enctish 
Dpring.  The  soil  was  a  deep  riuh  leaf-mould,  the  rc«ult  of 
vegetable  decay  for  thousands  of  years.  On  fuaing  it 
through  my  hand  [  most  ardently  wished  I  hnd  an  unlimited 
supply  of  it  in  my  rocky  garden  at  Meotone.  What 
Cnmcl1iu«,  AmleaN,  and  Rhododendrons  I  could  tJien  raise  I 

When  turning  from  the  north  we  gaud  ttouUi,  wotuwafej 
OUT  feet  a  pintle  mountain  slope,  of  about  a  thouwiud  Rn 
covered  with  scrubby  Dwarfed  Ilex,  then  gently  unduta tin 
plains  green  wiUi  griu^s  and  eerculH,  then  a  green  plail 
perfcetly  (tut,  and  then,  about  ten  niilw  beyond  uk,  iho  real 
Algerine  Sahsini,  or  the  Desert  of  the  High  Plains  (Haut« 
Plateaux),  a  level  yellow  swi  of  sand.  On  the  far  off 
■outhern  boriscon,  about  IiHv  or  sixty  mi Uit  distant,  was  »  , 
low  ridge  of  mountdinit,  tlie  Great  Atlaa,  the  last  mountRtHT 
chain,  nnd  the  northern  limit  of  the  Great  Desert,  which 
extends  to  Soudan,  to  Timbuctoo,  to  Senegal,  to  the  Niger  I 
Tiic  al'undimt  winter  and  upring  rtiini>,  precipitated  by  old 
AtliiK,  bud  clothed  even  the  high  phiins  whieh  form  the 
margin  of  tlic  Desert  with  verdure,  but  all  tree  vegetation 
coiued  a.  tliousiind  feet  below  where  we  wera  standiiii 
except  in  the  btxlx  of  turrentit  or  river«,  or  in  the  oomm. 

The  rain  which  falls  abundantly  in  winter  on  the  ridg^ 
of  Mount  Atlas,  and  even  on  the  limestone  hills  soiit))  of 
the  Atlas,  in  the  northern  regions  of  the  Great  Desert 
(>ee  map),  giviit  rise  to  turreiitii  and  riven*  iu  winter, 
whieh  How  down  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  and  biJU^ 


THK  DE8KRT— THE  DATE  PALM. 


549 


noHli  am]  eoutli,  to  lose  themselves  in  Uio  saiid«,  or  iu 
>liull»n-  hU  hVvm.  Ofl«n  th«>te  torrctiU,  nltUotigli  \o*t  Ut 
tilt-  eye  in  the  kuikIh,  aii;  ruQiiin^  tlieir  ooimu  al  nome 
tlUtanoe  iinder^^iinO,  and  reappear  as  springe,  or  terminate 
in  till;  UkM  or  Schotts  above  monti^noi.  An  <»i<if!  k  a 
B{)Ot  wliicli  a  torrent  or  river  irri-^tec,  or  wlicro  thejie 
apriiit{8  or  imdcr^nund  rivem  appear  at  the  surface,  or  can 
he  reached  hy  wells.  Nearly  all  eurface  waters,  torrents, 
rtvcTv,  epriu^,  even  the  ehidlow  lakes,  apparently  disiippiiir 
duriitg  the  Hummer.  I  ray  apparently,  becuUM  vrulcr  i* 
^nerally  ta  be  Tound  uuderttrouml,  more  or  leu  near  tlie 
Burfacs,  in  these  northern  revolts  of  the  Great  Desert,  due, 
no  douht,  to  tbo  watershed  oi'  the  Alias.  Wherever  it  can 
he  ruKihcd,  even  by  deep  ivulU  uU  the  year  round,  re^eU- 
tian  becomes  poasible  and  trees  Uoiiriah,  especially  the  D^ite 
I'alm,  as  also  vmrious  t'rult  treai,  su/:h  as  tho  Apricot,  the 
PcJteh,  tb«  PoiD<i|rranati',  and  nil  kinibi  of  vo^retahla*. 

Tlie  tree  thai  constititie:!  the  riclieji  of  the  Desert,  that 
thrives  the  best,  and  that  mora  especially  character! 2<:a  its 
sandy  pinias  beyond  the  Great  Atlas,  tor  it  does  not  grow 
ii)  the  Han(«  Plateaux,  is  the  Date  I\iln).  It  llonrixhvt:  and 
ripi^iia  itx  fruit  iu  the  n)0«t  sterile  siindit — in  sandH  bU  hut 
devoid  of  alluvial  soil — if  it  can  get  water.  Nor  is  it 
particular  as  lo  the  kind  of  water ;  saline  wat«r,  that  even 
the  Arabs  cannot  drink,  u^rvein^;  with  it  porfei-tly.  In 
Algeru  proper,  once  tho  city  of  Algi<.-rH  ha^i  b«en  left,  the 
^Im  is  scarcely  ever  seen.  It  is  not  a  feature  of  the  land- 
iicapc,  as  is  (fenurally  suppoeed  and  stited.  No  djuht  it 
would  grow  very  well  in  any  of  the  lower  plain*  of  Algeria, 
but  I  believe  it  doe*  not  ripeti  its  [ruit  out  of  the  Desert, 
the  climate  being  too  moist  and  cold  in  winter,  so  that 
then-  was  and  is  but  little  indugemont  to  the  inhabitants 
to  plant  it.  In  partly  civilized  or  colonized  regions  very 
little  is  done  fur  the  ornamental,  and  the  trees  and  sliruui 
that  have  not  a  direct  practical  purpose  to  serve  are  seldom 
Moti,  except  in  a  wild  Htutc.  Ah  previously  Ktatoil,  tlio  Date 
Palm  is  infimtely  more  common  in  the  south-east  of  Spain 
as  a  relic  of  the  Moorish  civilization  of  former  days  than  in 
Al};vria,  north  of  the  Atlas.  Tlieio  innst  be  a  ^rcat  dif- 
ference in  the  winter  climate  of  the  oasot  of  the  Dotert  autl 


660 


AIAERIA. 


in  lliiit  even  of  the  valley  of  tbc  Chclilt,  t)iu  warnint 
in  AlKi-riu,  for  oorCAls  nra  ripe  atitl  ^artivnnl  in   March  il 
tUo  OAHC),  whereas   1  lc)iin<l  tliem  only  just  turniof^  colour 
at  lite  Qud  of  A]>ril  in  the  ClielilT  plain,  oeur  Orlmnerille 
th«  holtcat  part  of  thu  viilley. 

'Hie  sand*  of  the  Desert  ore  silieonus,  hut  oontain,  na 
luivu  MOD,  •  good  deal  of  lime,  whiiJi  Mema  to  be  the 


TO  PBlBKt— A  TUX  OA£l«. 

of  Koil  that  Rtiits  th«  I)nte  Palm  the  hcst.     Thus,  the  i 
of  the  Jsrdin  d'Kesai  at  Algiers  is  com|iot>cd  of  loam  mixed 
witli  sand,  formed  by  the  l>reuk-up  of  granite  and  call 
mim-Rclii«t,  nhence,  no  doubt,  one  reason  why  it  eucoe 
m>  woll  with  the  Palm  tribe,  which  certainly  B««ms  to  prefii 
such  soik.     On  the  Ucnomc  Ulvieni  ut  liordighcra,  wher 
Iho  Date  Palm  is  more  luxuriant  iu  growth  and  uumbeTS 


THE  VEGETATION  OP  THE  DESERT.  551 

than  in  any  region  of  Algeria  that  1  have  seen  on  the  north 
Bide  of  the  Atlas — the  Algiers  Jardin  d'Essai  excepted— 
the  Boil  is  a  mixture  of  siliceous  sand  and  of  calcareous  loam, 
the  coast  rooks  being  calcareous.  The  Hoya  Uiver,  which 
comes  down  the  valley  of  that  name  from  the  Col  de  Tende, 
where  the  mountains  are  granitic,  has  brought,  in  the  course 
of  ages,  enough  saiid  to  Ibrm  at  its  outlet  several  miles  of 
sandy  delta,  or  alluvium,  which  extends  to  the  Bordighera 
Palm  groves.  Not  that  Palms  will  not  succeed  well  in  other 
soils,  for  they  thrive  in  the  purely  calcareous  soils  of  Nice 
and  Mentone,  but  they  certainly  appear  to  grow  most 
luxuriantly  where  sand  is  combined  with  lime.  Such  is 
also  the  case,  as  «;e  have  seen,  on  the  east  coast  of  Spain, 
at  Elche  especially  which  must  be  the  counterpart  of  a 
Palm  oasis  in  the  Desert. 

Beyond  the  mountain  chain  of  the  Middle  Atlas  on  which 
we  Blood  there  are  even  but  few  shrubs  out  of  these  areas 
of  natural  irrigation.  The  last  to  disappear  are  the 
Pistacia  Terebinth  in  us,  the  Lentiscus,  and  the  Jujube  or 
Zizyphus  Spina  Christi.  This  latter  plant  shows  itself 
everywhere  In  Algeria;  in  winter  it  is  a  mass  uf  slender, 
naked,  thorny  branches,  twined  in  and  in,  and  iyini^  on  the 
ground,  like  dead  brambles.  When  spring  arrives  it  throws 
out  a  profusion  of  pale  green  luaves,  which  conceal  its  thorns. 
We  found  it  in  the  Mitidjah,  it  followed  us  to  Mount  Atlas, 
and  we  were  told  that,  with  the  Squill,  it  was  almost  the 
last  to  disappear  in  the  Desert.  It  is  clearly  the  thorn  of 
Solomon:  "as  the  crackling  of  thorns  under  a  pot,  so  in 
the  laughter  of  fools." 

The  descent  of  Mount  Atlas  occupied  us  very  much  less 
time  than  the  ascent.  We  were  sorry  to  leave  the  grand 
Cedar  forest,  even  to  return  to  the  "  Corsican  maquis 
vegetation"  on  the  gravel  ridges  around  Teaiet,  beautiful 
as  it  is  at  this  time  of  the  year,  with  its  myriads  of  tlowers, 
among  which  predominate  the  profuse  yellow  spikes  of  the 
Broom  and  Cytisus.  We  were  told  on  our  return  that  we 
had  been  imprudent  to  wander  so  far  from  the  haunts  of 
man,  as  lions,  panthers,  and  wild  boars  still  haunt  these 
mountain  forests, although  in  rapidly  diminishing  numbers. 
We  had  been  in  happy  ignorance  of  all  possible  danger,  so 


552 


ALGERIA. 


mordy  laughed  at  the  risks  run,  wlncli  tj^avc  additional 
to  our  vivw  uf  tko  Desert.  Wc  were  all  of  ae,  thv  Iiulii 
i'!i]>eciiilly,  inoitl  anxioux  to  piiniue  our  jourD^y  into  thn 
rvixi  S;il)ani  D&ierL,  but  we  had  not  lime.  Moreover,  vrilb 
the  thoriDometer  at  Sfi",  40U0  Teet  abote  the  sea,  I  thouglit 
il  impriiilvnl  to  Tenturo  further  south,  bo  w«  rvludantly 
ilvcii)c<l  to  retrnoo  out  irteps. 

'J'hc  uext  morning,  April  26th,  I  wat  awakened  nt  five 
ill  the  morning  hjr  the  beating  of  druma,  the  blon-iii;;  of 
l»i|fW,  and  nil  the  Rounds  of  witr.  As  Teniet  ix  ui)  oiitiHiit 
of  the  French  army  on  the  borders  of  the  Dewrl,  1  thought 
it  «ra«  Home  review  or  military  ceremony.  On  rteinif,  how- 
ever, I  heard  that  uevn  had  arrived  in  the  night  that  an 
army  of  luciie(«  were  marching  on,  »lun<;  the  road,  from 
tlic  Ocaerl,  toward--*  tiu'  yasf,  nnd  thai  a  thoti!>and  soldiers 
had  started  as  soon  as  it  wan  daylight  to  meet  the  enemy ! 
It  appi-ars  that  the  locust?,  wbeu  they  iiivailo  Al^irria 
from  the  Desert,  make  fi>r  the  pasws  throngh  the  Atlav, 
niid  if  thorv  is  a  road  follow  it,cainpin<;  f«g:u|jirly  at  night. 
The  locustx  vrc  hsd  met  on  our  journey,  two  days  before, 
were  no  doubt  tlie  pioneers,  the  advanced  guard  of  lh« 
main  army,  doiv  in  full  mnrcb.  The  trocijw  were  to 
endeavour  to  forte  them  back  in  thu  day  by  naae  and 
with  branehey  of  treeii,  and  at  night  to  make  deep  holi-H 
iu  thu  ground,  swee))  them  in,  and  bury  them.  I  lell^^ 
the  Mime  (lay,  and  heard  no  more  on  the  Kuhj^Tt.  I^**^^! 
later,  whiUt  in  Sjmin,  I  loarut  tliat  the  locusta  wieceedeJ" 
in  CTOKing  the  Atla>,  and  spread  over  tlie  fertile  valleyit  of 
the  Chelia',  doing  much  dama;;e,  and  destroytn.>>  mnny  of 
the  niiiguificent  crops  which  had  everywhere  im-t  my  gaxe; 
as  they  bud  done  three  yvnn  before,  l^hus  the  Freack 
eoldieis,  whom  I  saw  going  out  to  fight  this  apparently 
(.■ontcmptible  enemy,  must  have  failed  in  their  etfurit,  and 
liuvc  Iwcn  signally  ddionted.  Thoy  could  coii<iuer  tlie 
KabjIcM,  the  Anibti,  the  wild  dcnizunii  of  the  Desert,  but 
thoy  were  conquered  iu  their  turn  by  an  army  of  grasB- 
hoppere ;  a  singular  history. 

The  return  journey  to  ililianah  wan  HtH^wsfnlly  per- 
Ibrmed  in  a  day.  Tlic  ceirocoo  had  gone,  tlie  temperature 
had  fuUen  to  70°,  and  both  I  and  my  American  frt 


MILIANAH  AS  A  SAKITARITJM.  553 

greatlj  enjoyed  the  drive.  An  intellectual  and  well- 
informed  inquiring  friend,  like  the  one  whose  compaaion- 
Bhip  I  had,  is  a  most  valuable  adjanct  to  the  kind 
of  journey  we  were  making.  Constant  questions  and 
debatable  opinions  thrown  out,  on  both  sides,  sharpen  the 
wits  and  enlarge  the  field  of  ol>servation.  Such  com- 
munion tends  to  strengthen  and  give  a  form  to  ideas  that 
might  otherwise  have  remained  dormant,  or  have  been 
only  half  formed  in  the  mind's  recesses.  We  again 
lunched  at  the  caravansail,  but  this  time  OU'  the  hard 
ground,  far  away  from  scorpions  and  venomous  ants.  As 
we  approached  Milianah  it  appeared  a  most  fascinating 
Bojoiini,  perebed  up  on  a  ledge  of  the  mountuin,  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  plain,  with  a  protecting  screen  from  the 
north  nearly  two  thousand  feet  high  behind  it.  I  cannot 
but  think  that  notwithstanding  the  occasional  breath  of 
the  Uesert  from  the  south,  and  an  occasional  fall  of  snow 
from  the  north,  it  must  be  a  delightful  winter  residence. 
Then  it  could  he  made  a  centre  for  excursions  io  the 
Desert  and  to  the  oases  that  we  only  saw  at  a  distance.  I 
do  not  ttdviBB  any  very  great  invalid  to  try  it,  but  a 
person  merely  weary  of  town  civilization,  and  slightly 
failing  in  general  heulth,  might  certainly  test  its  climate  in 
perfect  safety.  At  Milianah,  also,  there  are  all  the  resources 
of  a  French  town— good  French  society,  and  plenty  to 
eat  and  drink;  we  had  comfortable  rooms,  and  fared 
very  well  whilst  there.  We  had  left  one  member  of  our 
party  behiud,  a  gentleman  who  did  not  feel  well  enough 
to  venture  on  "the  unknown"  when  we  started.  I  pro- 
posed to  him  to  winter  there  next  season,  but  having  been 
condemned  to  silence  lor  three  days  from  ignorance  of 
the  French  language,  he  said  he  had  bad  quite  enough  of 
Milianah,  pretty  as  it  is,  for  the  rest  of  his  life,  and  that  I 
must  look  out  for  some  other  victim. 

MILIANAH  TO  ORAN, 

Tlie  last  part  of  Algeria  that  I  examtned  was  the  valley 
of  the  Cheliif,  from  Milianah  to  Oran,  about  150  miles 
from  east  to  west.     The  first  day  we  drove  to  Orleansville ; 


554  ALGERIA. 

tho  seooni]  to  R«lix!ann,  llic  poiiii  then  mkoht-d  1)V  the 
railivaj'  (mm  Onin  to  Allien;  Uie  third  duy  we  took  tbe 
Inilw'iiy  to  Ona. 

On  leavin)*  Milixnnh  we  ugaio  descei)<1«d  into  tho  vallqr 
of  tht>  CMifT  by  tliv  ruiul  n*c  h:iil  Inice  tTUTenvd,  lint  oo 
nmviii2  at  the  tiver,  turiuMl  to  Uiv  wot  iitst«itd  of  oxMmng 
tliL-  vnlloy  as  before.  Here  we  ffxinit  Uie  nilwaj  works 
npidly  adTiincint;.  From  Bliilah,  where  nre  hnd  lod  it, 
the  rail  |Mi«)te«  the  Little  Attiu  by  n  hrunk  or  (ie^-|>  vullvy, 
emergfiB  ou  the  vall«y  of  the  Chelid*  n«ir  Miliimah,  aud 
follows  its  couree  for  more  than  lwo4hirda  of  the  dietaoca 
to  Oran.  Thv  hi^h  road  also  followe  the  river  and  Ui* 
wide  oitd  fertile  valley  throui^i  which  it  ruii», 

•SouD  after  our  departure  from  Miliuii;il)  Ibe  geological 
character  of  the  mountains  ehanged,  iliey  became  ctUo»- 
rroiif,  rinini;  on  both  sid««  of  tho  vullcy  in  gentta  Kwecf* 
1000  or  20O0  feet  high,  with  highvr  riilgea  of  the  winie 
character  behind,  both  iiorthwardM  to  tJie  tica,  and  soutb- 
warda  touanlei  the  l>esert.  Tli«  valley  itself  contJiiu«d  a 
bed  of  vei;etublo  soil,  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  lect  deep, 
restitii;  on  limcstonv  or  (>ravel.  GrHdiiiitly,  a*  Hid  t,t-'ulo[;icM 
fonnution  ciiimp.'d,  xo  did  tht?  vogolublc.  Ne«ni'  all  the 
|ilatits  HO  coniiixii)  on  the  sandstone,  grave),  ana  echtstic 
soils,  from  the  ChamaToiis  to  the  Cistus.  heoiaiu  l«*s  fnv 
qnent,  then  sparse,  and  olliiniitcly  dimppearcd.  The 
Jnjiibc  7'honi  alone  remained,  and  here  in  a  lower  lati- 
tude, and  liitiT  iu  the  season,  it  had  become  covered  with 
fresh  green  leaves,  and  was  qnito  sn  ekgnnt  ehnib,  in«tcikd 
of  a  mnra  of  oppnrentty  dead  llioriw.  Tim  liill-aide*  oeOMlt 
to  gmw  Iri-CK,  with  the  exi^eplion  of  n  few  small  Ilex  or 
wilU  Olive,  ^paraely  scattered.  Tho  rich  alluvi.il  plain 
was  a  mere  lulling  prairie  or  steppe  covered  with  rank 
heritage  utid  with  wild  flowers  wheie  not  cultivated  j  there 
was  not  a  tree  to  bo  seen  for  miles.  Alon);  the  road  and 
near  the  viI1a<;r8  were  nomc  farm*,  and  here  and  there 
llie  Arnb«  hud  tilled  and  eultivated  patches  of  coro. 
Vln^rever  the  labour  of  man  hud  broken  the  ground  roost 
exuberant  fertility  hod  followed,  and  the  trem  he  had 
planted  near  farms  and  stn*)l  villngvs — Mulberry,  Carouba, 


I.UXUBIANCE  OP  TBS  CDELIPF  VALLEY.      555 


AiOBcia,  Plane,  Orange,  Aprieot^  Peaoli — all  aeemed  to 
thrive  an<I  llouriBh. 

Tbc  puKzItt  to  me  was,  ind  U,  ^h^  doc^s  not  Nature  da 
her  own  [ilanting  in  thv»o  rich  aliitviul  ]ilitin#,  as  cNuwherc, 
le  on  Uiu  sandy  adiislic  rockH  ?  Tliu  {^nsiMM  were  two  or 
throe  f'eot  deen,  and  mingled  with  myrinds  of  Howerii, 
C»rn-tlowtire  orvarioa*  kinds,  Ox -eyed  Daisica,  Dandcliimt), 
Biitteri.-u[>»,  Phenmnt'ii  Eye,  Mitrii^ldit,  Vutcho;,  Wihl 
Peas,  Mustard,  Convolviiliia  (mujor  and  minor),  Thistles, 
Mallows  of  variouB  Species.  Theso  Sowers  were  not  disse- 
minated here  and  therv,  but  f^rowiii);  in  masMn,  knoe-dcep, 
as  if  artificially  plmilfii,  until  their  bloom  coloured  the 
);round  for  miles.  The  lielda  of  Wheat,  the  bearded  variety, 
were  turning  colour,  and  were  rendered  sou-let  by  mssses 
of  Corn  Poppy.  Here,  on  every  side,  was  evideno;  of  ubuR- 
<Ltnt  winter  and  Kprini*  rain*,  which  hud  brought  to  lifo 
and  fostered  bo  much  luxuriance,  and  which  would  do  the 
tiauR-  were  cereals  or  ffrasBes  planted  by  man.  But  I 
waA  tolii,  that  in  pix  weeks  there  would  not  be  a  btitdc  of 
gnss  lelt,  that  all  would  be  burnt  up  by  tho  Riimmer  sun 
and  hpiit,  and  that  there  was  no  remedy,  as  there  was  no 
available  water  in  the  country.  That  of  tiie  river  is  not 
good,  and  in  not  eiinily  atlinRnble,  for  it  runs  in  a  canal  or 
furrow  ofti?u  thirty  feet  deep,  worti  in  the  alluvial  soil. 
The  uelte,  althousfa  from  fiily  to  eighty  feet  deep,  do  not 
ulwiiys  reach  good  water.  So,  for  want  of  irrigation,  the 
land  ha«  to  he  lull  to  itself  until  winter  rains  ri-turn  in 
November;  the  (>overnni<-ut  \m*  plans  for  artilicial  irriga- 
tion on  a  largo  scale  under  contiideratton. 

It  i»  eauy  to  understand  why  the  sides  of  a  lim«stone 
hill  should  not  be  clothed  witli  timber,  for  Uio  rootx  ot  mi>«l 
trees  and  shrubs  cannot  and  will  not  pierce  limestone, 
as  tlioy  can  and  will  pierce  sand,  gravel,  sandstone,  or 
scbiHtic  uliules.  But  it  is  difficult  to  understand  why  the 
seeds  of  trees  droroed  by  bird*,  or  carried  by  the  wind, 
into  the  orovioea  of  good  deep  soil,  cracked  by  eu-nroer 
h«it,  and  well  watered  for  months  in  winter,  should  nob 
germtnato  and  grow,  as  they  do  when  planted  by  nan. 
Vet,  aa  ID  the  American  prairies,  iu  Algeria  we  eee  this 


556 


ALGERIA. 


)>lBin  of  the  Clieliff,  200  mili^s  long  and  fivm  t«n  to  tliirly 
wiik-,  ^vitli  its  (li^cp  ricli  loum  itroluscly  u-iil«:rvd  for  six 
monlliK  or  th«  yviir,  nil  but  rnlirely  duvuiil  of  ipoutesMiuIy 
grxiwn  treoji  or  sbrubii. 

During  tliese  days  of  pleasant  travel  I  ofl«n  sat  IHU 
tho  driven,  and  obtained  a  great  deal  of  valuable  ioforma- 
tivu  from  them.  Tlie  Meesiig«ri«  "  nuthoritiiw"  at  Algiers 
trentt>d  uh  Uiroughwit  witJi  great  considvmtion.  Not  only 
did  llicy  iirovide  ua  witb  a  oomfortJd>l«  carriage,  ana 
Ircfiiivnt  relays  of  horees,  but  they  told  ofl'  their  inspeoton 
to  drive  us.  Thu  first  called  me  "Miloid,"  and  on  my 
t«lliiig  Uim  that  1  had  no  claim  to  »uoh  a  dignilied  aii)>ellH- 
tioii,  lie  8ai<l  that  he  thought  we  muHt  he  at  least "  Milords," 
M  h«  and  his  oollmgties  were  never  called  upon  to  driva  any 
bat  tlu!  Govfirnin-.  We  profit<d,  however,  by  tin)  error,  for 
we  {fi'tiL-rally  hud  the  ver)'  bf^t  horviv  the  otablea  coutd 
aHbi-d,  and  Ik-w  along  Hu:  roiulH,  iieurly  always  t^oud,  each 
day  arriving  at  our  destinalion  an  liotir  or  two  bvloiv  tl»f 
time  hsed. 

The  hors«-s  driven  were  always  of  pure  Arab  breed,  aad 
showed  a  iipt.'od  and  endomiicc  that  quito  Borprieed  us; 
ihey  seemed  to  think  nothing  of  twenty  or  thirty  miles  si 
the  fidl  trot.  I  was  told  that  with  a  light  carringc  they 
vould  cnsjly  do  sixty  or  seventy  miles  u  day.  One  of  Uie 
inspectors  said  he  bad  rejiealeiily  driven  one  of  the  borsa 
then  in  the  carriage  a  htin<ln-d  and  Ibrty  miles  in  two  day* 
in  a  light  gig,  &rery  kind  of  European  horse  baa  b«tn 
tried  on  the  roads  in  Algeria,  but  none  can  staud  ibe 
climate  and  the  work,  the  heat  of  summer,  tho  moisture, 
coolness,  and  night  fog»  of  winter.  All  hrejik  down  ex- 
cept the  uiitivo  Arab,  which  they  drive  exelunively.  Ho 
doiibl  the  eoni^tittition  of  the  equine  race  has  becoow 
modified  in  the  course  of  ccntiiriert,  like  that  of  tho  oatiit 
humuii  tribeM,  so  a«  to  thrive  and  Hotirish  uuder  conditiooi 
inimical  to  more  northern  races.  The  country  docs  not 
produce  eiiongb  of  these  Arab  horses  for  its  own  requiie- 
tticnt<,  vu  their  exportation  is  not  eiioournged. 

The  towns  of  Orleanitvilte  and  KeliKiuno  are  mere 
military  and  government  stations,  like  lilidah  and  Miliu' 
iinh.    They  contain  well  built  barracks,  stoie  wareboutes, 


FARMS  AND  COLONISTS. 


557 


.i^^f*  halls,  with  accomnKHlation  for  tt>o 

'gOTCnf ^DSBfr  VhEb  and  latv  courU,  small  inns,  with  eome 
one  Of  two-storcvfd  hoiwi'i^  for  lrii<lvsmcn,  »nd  ii  t'vw  larm 
houses  anil  niltivutvtl  TunnH  w-tlhin  a  mile  or  two  of  the 
town.  The  tatter  are  occii[tie<l  by  cotonist^  eHtnblieihed  on 
imrpcMe  to  euppljr  th«  wante  of  the  adjoining  popiilBtion. 
JJcyonil  thorc  i»>  little  cIbc  hut  th«  wild  •>»»  an<I  How* r- 
covoroil  iiruiri«,  varifj,  every  now  and  then,  hy  an  Arab 
encampment.  The  iuiis  were  humble,  but  we  everywhere 
found  very  tolonihic  liirc,  iw  1  always  have  done  in  Pri>nch 
ti-rritory,  without  having  to  fall  back  on  the  national  Arab 
diih,  tiie  konskiiuitou.  The  kouHkoiwou  it  coinpo«o<l  of 
wheat  or  barley  tlour,  moistened  witit  water  or  milk,  and 
nibbed  into  pellets  by  the  hand.  It  is  eteamed  two  boure, 
flavoured  with  rait  or  sngar,  and  eaten  with  dates  and 
raioiTiii,  or  with  a  fowl  or  a  piece  of  mutton. 

What  1  had  heard  at  the  Tr»ppe  mouuiitery  was  every- 
where confirmed.  Most  of  the  culonista  who  accept  {>;rants 
of  Un<i  from  the  Government  die  off  to  a  few  years,  from 
fever  and  dysentery  and  their  conseqnencos.  Their  small 
means  are  exhausted  in  clearing  the  hind ;  tlicy  have  oiU-n, 
at  Grat,  to  camp  out  under  t«nt«,  or  in  badly  built  hutjt, 
pxpoited  to  the  intense  heat  of  the  day  and  to  (he  moist 
chillii  of  the  nitfht — according  to  Dr.  Annand,  thrj  real 
cause  of  fever,  not  marsh  emanations.  Tliey  are  liatily  fcil, 
frequently  drink,  and  oflcn  know  nothinff  of  farmind*. 
Being  mottly  peopio  who  have  failed  in  life  in  J£urope, 
they  have  the  mental  defects  of  those  who  do  so  faif— 
want  of  judgment,  want  of  furethoug^ht,  want  of  power  to 
combine.  Thus  in  a  few  yean  tbey  dtsappeur,  and  ara 
Huceeeded  by  a  hitrlier  claas  of  farmunt,  men  who  bulonfr  to 
a  hi|j;her  social  and  mental  ^nide,  who  have  a  litth:  eapittd, 
and  know  how  to  um;  it.  A»  I  have  already  stated,  they 
xucceed  and  keep  their  health,  where  their  prudoeesson ' 
failed  and  died.  I  believo  this  is  also  the  ciute  in  our  own 
oolooics.  To  succeed,  forethought,  self-control,  sobriety, 
potereranec,  intelliKence,  are  required.  Those  who  do  not 
ptiRseas  these  qualities  fail  everywhere. 

There  is  au  oxmption,  however,  to  this  aad  eolontEiiif 
picture.     It  i«  when   men  of  capital  and  of  fair  moiital  | 


558 


AUiEStA. 


nlibre,  men  who  would  ilo  well  at  tiomc,  buy  Inn*!,  cither 
liret  or  wcniil  liimd,  have  tlin  incaii*  to  wait  unlil  rrt^irn* 
come,  and  also  the  means  to  tide  over  years  of  drouKbt  or  of 
(liM'truetion  l>y  locoste.  As  th«y  hav«  tliu  knowlml^  and  th« 
prudiinou  tVQtiircd  for  vucccn  iinywhcrv  tbty  do  ■ui'otwil, 
and  eventtiully  make  twenty  or  thirty  per  eent.  »!'  iius 
ctipital  invested.  Thua  I  was  told  of  an  EnKli>*h  fl^■l>t)t;• 
man,  with  three  sislcm,  who  bought  an  estate  iilrcudy  ia 
cultiirotiou,  with  ^iiliKUntiul  bmlthy  r<»idMiliiil  iinil  liirin 
huildintrii,  near  Ithdah,  for  three  or  f«ur  thousand  pound*,  a 
iew  years  ago,  and  was  reapioff  a  fcolden  harvest. 

'no  come  acroGs  eeverul  Arab  cnm{>8  in  our  drive  through 
the  CheUfr  valley,  enit  as  n-e  »topped  and  visited  thetn,  we 
ubtjiined  a  very  good  idea  of  what  Arab  hfe  in  thi-  tent 
n^ally  is.  The  en^rnviiis  is  an  admirable  rcpn<^«ntalit<ii  nf 
the  real  Arab  tent,  and  of  its  inmatv,  on  a  line  duy.  u-bcn 
the  xideit  are  iniKcd.  Multiply  thi>:  ivnt  by  many,  and  ihe 
camp  in  lonned.  It  was  in  kiict)  tents,  made  of  ea 
skins  or  ouniel  hairololh,  supported  by  poles,  that 
patriarchs  of  Scripture,  Abt«ham  and  mac,  lived 
died. 

The  two  sketehw — that  of  the  Kabyle  village-  an! 
of  tliv  Arab  lent — givt-  the  key  to  tlii.-  native  p>>]U) 
of  At[^-na,  and  to  their  history  pctst  and  preeent. 
Al^nne  Arabs  are  nomads,  of  the  Eame  i»n,  and  having 
the  same  hubite  as  the  Arab*  nf  Arubia,  and  of  the  ^urib 
African  deserts.  In  winter  they  camp  on  the  plains  of 
Algeria,  within  certain  limits  for  ench  tribe.  In  summ<^r, 
thoy  ascvixl  to  the'lower  AtW  moiintuins;  alpK>  within 
pre»oribcd  limit*  for  each  tribe.  The  Kabylw  or  Ih-rtiere, 
on  the  contrary,  us  we  Imve  seen,  are  stationary  agrioul- 
turisls.  The  nomad  Arubs  fought  but  tied  belore  lh« 
enemy,  can'vintf  on  n  guerilla  wnrliare.  To  cubdua  thein 
Fiance  has  iiud  to  KUceeMively  conquer  and  tjike  ]>o««e»iiou 
of  the  Little,  Middle,  and  Great  Atlas  ranges,  of  th«  in. 
t«rvening  valleys,  and  even  of  ihu  oasw  of  the  Gtvut 
Desert,  that  tlu-y  might  have  no  ii»yhim  to  fly  to.  Tho 
Kubyle  inountaineera,  tied  to  the  soil  by  their  poax-^ 
and  uabita,  had  no  refuge  open  to  them,  even  of  a  tci-. 
riuy  nature,  lor  Uioy  are  of  a  different  raco  to  the  Anibs, 


iiie 

3 


'Iha 


h 


THE  CONQUEST  OP  ALOERtA — WARS.         553 


and  there  is  animosity  l>otween   them.     So   they  foti^ht 
with  the  cnei-jry  of  despair  until  finally  subdued 

It  u  now  moi-i:  tbnn  forty  years  eime  l''nno«-  first  put  Iiit 
foot  in  Altfi-riti.  I  wan  then  a  youth  in  ['dfiit,  iiiid  I  »i'll 
recollect  tlif  enlhtisIaBm  with  which  the  news  of  the  ooou* 
pation  tif  AltfivfK  was  fL-ceived.  just  befurv  the  famous  dnytt 
of  July,  which  I  iiUci  witnoMcd.  Littlo  did  Fmnw  then 
know  what  a  Herculean  ta«k  a\ie  had  uiidcrlilmu — what 
Ircusure  and  blood  it  would  cost  to  eetabliali  her  sway  over 
the  wild  tribes  of  North  AfrioA.  But  tlie  ^rvut  deed  iim  it 
last  heen  aeconiplixlu'd,  and  the  long  years  of  constant  war 
have  at  last  tiided  in  the  euiMiuent  and  paciticaliou  of  the 
entire  country,  from  Moroeco  t<>  Tunis,  from  the  Meili- 
temtnuin  to  the  InNt  oaecB  of  the  northeru  rc^^one  of  the 
Deoert.  Ucl'orc  thix  was  nttainud,  however,  each  ebaiii  of 
the  Allan  had  to  he  disputed  with  the  Arahgc,  mile  bv  mile, 
cnch  village  of  Kahylia  had  to  he  fought  for  with  the 
Kahylee;  ciid  hundnslo  of  thousands  ol  French  xoldicra 
have  jH-ridhcti  hy  the  nword  or  liy  dii^enKC.  Now  that  ull 
Aliieriit  i»  under  the  dominion  of  the  French  nation,  onler 
and  security  io  life  and  property  reicn  everywhere,  lu  the 
towns  achiidly  settled,  the  centres  ol*  the  loi^'iil  ■;ov«rnmi>Tit, 
tlw  FiTnch  vode  is  t'tiforeed.  In  the  ontlying  stjttietiH  Uw 
authority  of  the  Bureaux  Arabes  brings  Eurofwan  views  of 
justice  to  bear  in  a  more  Bummary,  hot  most  Huhilary  wjiy. 
Nor  must  wc  forget  that  it  is  »  Christiiin  iwopU'  who  have 
done  and  are  doiiiK  in  Algeria  what  we  huve  done  and  nra 
doing  in  other  Mabommedan  oounlries,  iu  our  Aaiatio 
poseresions.  The  i>aiii  is  the  gain  of  Christianity  and  of 
cirilixation,  and  all  the  Christian  nations  of  Kiiropu  ou;;ht 
to  feel  that  they  ewe  a  debt  of  gratitude  to  Fninve  for  what- 
she  has  B<xomplii<hed,  and  willingly  to  help  her  in  her  great 
and  noble  enterprise. 

I'lie  prosperity  of  Algiem  as  a  colouy,  however,  is  much 
marred  hy  the  narrotv- minded  coinmereia]  policy  of  thu 
French  naliou.  Their  wish  is  to  colonize  Algeria,  to  make 
it  Fiipport  itxelf,  instead  of  costing  the  uiolher  country  a 
million  sterling  yearly,  as  it  now  does.  To  effoet  this 
Fniiico  ought  to  opeu  the  Algerine  porta  to  all  fldgs, 
making  them  all   free  porta,  lcvyin<>  dutie*  only   for  lite 


5G0 


AUJEKIA. 


piirpoM  at  revenue.  IiiKUntl  of  that,  itU  tho  cumbroiu 
(Ititt<»  ami  (trtihiUtiouH  of  the  French  ciu>U>in-)iouiM»  am  in 
Corci',  and  beavy  ditlercntial  port  duties  are  leviwi  o«  rurcigu 
iihi]>|iiiip.  French  colontst^,  us  oxjiojtvn,  are  thus  plaoid 
at  a  sTMil  i]imul\aut»go  wh<'ii  compiircd  with  those  who 
oultivalc-  Ihe  soil  in  tlie  moth<.if  couiilry,  the  itiitural  mjirkct 
for  tlieir  productions.  Thcj-  pay  more  for  everythiiijjr  tht-r 
uso  Hiid  coiiBumQ,  nut  produced  in  Al^ria,  and  have  to  aeil 
ata  I  mi  oh  I  we  profit  when  they  export, on  acvoiintt>f  fivi-^ht, 
poK  diitH,  and  commbision  exp(;ii»ai.  HundiMU  of  foreign 
vessels  ai<e  said  to  pass  the  AI^:enno  ports,  in  ballast  or  in 
distraw,  without  entcnn^r,  on  iiocotint  of  the  port  du«B.  If 
allowvd  to  enter  in'ivily  free,  *uch  vowel*  wouhl  tniike  a 
point  of  paying  Algiers  and  Orana  vttit  to  tee  if  they  could 
gtt  Gnrt;o,  or  to  i-elit ;  ns  it  ia  tlioy  )^>ass  on.  Aa  loiij;  as 
Algeria  it  thtis  governed  it  will  remain  what  it  now  i»— « 
military  colony.  It  ia  to  Ic  hoped,  however,  for  the  saka 
of  humanity,  that  more  enlightened  counaels  tvill  ev«nliuUljr 
prevail. 

Tbroughoiit  this  journey  I  never  lost  eight  of  the  otiject 
for  which  I  hnd  come  to  At<;ena,  vis.,  to  stittly  it«  clitnat« 
as  a  winter  suuilarium.  Kvery  ohiwr^ation  madg  with 
rcfereiieo  to  holxiiy,  horticulture,  geology,  raoos,  local 
bahita,  waa  mentally  scrutinized  with  reference  to  thia 
point,  and  it  now  only  rumuins  for  mc  to  atate  the  oodcIu- 
■iona  at  which  I  have  arrived.     Previotix,  liowover,  to  rec«> 

fitulating  the  data  on  which  these  concluaiona  are  foundad, 
would  i-eniark  that  they  arc  so  consonant  with  the  lavra 
of  physical  gcogriiiiliy,  ns  elucidate  hy  the  liitMurs 
CnptJiin  Maury,  Keith  Johniiton,  and  others,  that, 
the  data,  Uiey  could  be  arrived  at  witliout  leaving  ' 
or  Paris. 

As  \vc  have  fcen,  Algeria  U  n  mere  Switzerlnotl,  boi 
twt'lvo  hiiudred  niilea  from  cuKt  to  went,  some  two  bundrud 
from  north  to  south,  formed  bya  aeries  of  mountain  ran^ 
th«AtlaK,audhy  intervening  valleys.  Aa  the  highest  raii{|, 
the  Jtirjuru,  do  not  liae  above  7U(lO  feet,  there  are  no  large 
glaciers  as  in  the  Alps,  the  Himalaya,  or  the  Andce,  to  fori 
the  sourocs  of  large  rivers,  f 

To  the  nortli  wo  have  the  great  inland  aco,  the  Meditd 


e» 


ALOEBIA.  A  HOIST  CLIUATE.  561 

ranean,  about  'five  degrees  of  latitude  or  300  miles  across ; 
to  the  north-east  the  basin  of  the  Mediterranean  ia  its 
entire  breadth  ;  to  the  north-west  the  Atlantic  Ocean  ;  to 
the  south  the  great  burning  Desert  of  Sahara,  which 
extends  over  a  considerable  part  of  the  African  coutinent. 

The  atmosphere  which  lies  on  this  immense  rainless  tract, 
or  desert,  hecoming  heated  both  iu  winter  and  in  summer, 
rises  icito  the  higher  atmospheric  regions,  and  thus  forms  a 
vacuum  which  the  cooler  and  heavier  air  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean and  of  the  Atlantic  rushes  down  to  till.  The  latter 
is  thus  positively  "sucked  in"  over  the  summits  of  the 
mountain  regions  of  the  northern  shore  and  of  the  Atlas 
ranges;  consequently  in  Algeria  the  regular  winds  must  be 
either  north-west  or  south-west,  or  north-east;  and  south  or 
south-east  winds  can  and  do  only  reign  exceptionally.  These 
direct  winds  coming  from  the  ocean  or  the  sea  are  moist 
winds,  and,  being  brought  in  contact  with  the  Atlus  moun- 
tains on  the  very  shore,  are,  in  winter,  bo  cooled  down 
that  they  deposit  their  moisture  in  copious  and  frequent 
rain  or  snow  over  the  entire  Algerine  and  Atlas  region,  and 
into  the  Desert  of  Sahara,  for  250  miles  or  more  from 
the  sea.  This  rainfall  occurs  from  October  or  November 
to  April  or  May.  In  summer  the  very  mountains  themselves 
become  so  heated  with  a  nearly  tropical  sun  and  with  the 
breath  of  the  Desert,  that  the  moisture  of  the  northerly  sea 
winds,  when  they  blow,  is  no  longer  precipitited,  but  passes 
over  them  and  into  space.  As,  however,  the  air  is  moist 
the  night  dews  are  very  heavy  throughout  the  hot  summer 
season,  unless  the  scirocco  blow  from  the  Desert  as  a  dry 
hot  wind. 

Thus  is  explained  the  climate  of  Algeria.  It  is  a  tract  of 
mountains,  valleys,  and  contained  plains,  abundantly  watered 
by  cool  northern  rain  clouds  on  the  plains  and  lower  moun- 
tains, and  by  rainfall  and  snow  on  the  higher  elevations, 
during  nearly  six  months  of  the  year,  which  makes  it  a 
garden  of  fertility.  Mr.  Tristram,  in  his  most  interesting 
work  entitled  "  Wanderings  in  the  Desert,"  says  that  he 
often  saw  hoar  frost  in  the  oases  a  hundred  miles  south  of 
the  Great  Atlas.  Thus,  although  burnt  up  by  tropical  heat 
during  the  summer,  owing  to  its  latitude  and  to  its  prox- 

o  o 


5C2 


AJCERIA.. 


imity  to  the  Great  Desert  of  Sahara,  the  province  of  AlRtrai 
does  nut  apponr,  \>y  its  vffgvtntioti,  to  po^SL-m  a  wnrmcr 
n-iiiter  cliinatc  ihiin  llie  protected  reirions  o(  th«  north  nhora 
or  tlie  Mct1it«rranean,  rucIi  m  the  underdiflT  from  Cannes  to 
LtPirhom ;  at  least  duririjBr  the  daytime.  But  there  is  mor« 
ruin,  morpattnoeplierie  moisture,  nnd  the  ni>^it«are  wurroor. 
Tliif*  lattvr  fiit-l  is  •■splatiifd  by  ihc  h«at  licinff  mon?  th«  rmalt 
of  liHitiidc  thuii  it  in,  My  iit  Nice  and  M«.-iitone,  where  it  is 
priiK-ipaily  i>ro<li»ceJ  by  the  direct  rayaof  thesan  impin^ne 
on  the  laiiii  from  iho  south,  with  shelter  from  the  north 
behind.  On  the  other  himit,  iheinlcniiie  heat  of  thcifunimcr, 
grvutiT  than  on  any  part  of  the  wnitinent  of  Eun»pe,  ex- 
plains the  i^rcater  lusnriaiieo  of  some  fonnai  of  vi^getable  life. 

I  cnn  ccrlflinly  ttato,  without  any  rcfiTve,  that  the  entire 
coiuilry  viniti'd  Wltveen  the  luth  and  SOth  of  April,  from 
Ihc  IrontitTS  of  llie  province  of  Constuntine  to  thotte  of 
MoTiii'co,  from  the  Mi'diifininean  aeanhore  to  the  Desert, 
which  lay  at  my  feet  when  on  one  of  the  highest  sum 
of  Mount  AtlsH,  was  clothed  with  the  meet  luxun 
vrsotation.  The  mountain  sides,  the  valleys,  the  plniin, 
Vfcre  all  eovered  with  '.rew,  shrulm,  fli>weni,  or  grumes. 
The  entire  country  mut>t  have  bi^cn  irrigulod,  well  watered, 
by  Nature,  every  fsw  days  fur  munthai  no  other  atino- 
sphtiie  condition  cuuld  explain  such  widcspreud,  such 
universal  Iiuurianec  of  vcf^lablc  life. 

Algeria  is  certainly  not  a  dry  climate  either  in  winter  or 
mimmer,  except  when  the  seiroceo  blows.  The  average 
rainfall  at  Algiers  is  36-lS  inches,  diH^eminatcd  ov«r 
the  Hiitumn,  winter,  ond  spring  months,  in»t«d  of  22 
inchcsi  iiK  ill  Kn(;lnnil.  The  night  dews  are  very  heavy, 
whirl)  in  owing  to  the  atmospbere  l>eiii|r  cotiatantly  loaded 
with  moisture,  and  to  its  being  precipitated  «hi-n  the 
tbcrmumi'ter  tails,  even  slightly,  at  night,     Thii  fall  takes 

iilaeo  •«  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  Mcditvrraueau,  b 
ly  no  means  to  the  same  extent. 

The  uit)  of  Algiers  in  more  fiivourahly  placed  than  a 
other  part  of  Aliferia,  from  iis  having  the  additional  pro* 
teetien  of  the  Snhel  hill,     Owing  to  the  Atlas  mountaiu* 
being  coveted  with  Know  in  niidivinter,  even  Bouth  winds 
may  be  eool  or  eold.     When  tlie  Atlu  snovrs  are  melted 


i 


teS 

TO*      I 


ALGERIA  A  MOIST  CLIMATE. 


563 


these  same  south  winde  become  very  objectionable,  as  they 
then  blow  directly  from  tbe  Desert,  and  are  intensely  hot. 

I  have  so  far  spoken  of  tbe  climate  of  Algeria  entirely 
from  my  own  observatioDS  during  this  spring  visit,  and 
from  deductions  thereon  founded.  On  consulting  the 
most  valunble  and  interesting  work  by  Dr.  Armand,*  which 
I  have  already  quoted,  I  find  these  deductions  entirely 
confirmed  by  his  actual  experience,  which  extended  over 
many  years'  military  service  in  Algiers  and  Algeria. 

Dr.  Armand  states  that  the  seasons  cannot  be  divided 
into  four,  as  on  the  continent  of  Europe.  There  are  in 
reality  only  two  :  the  winter  season,  or  cool  lainy  season, 
beginning  with  November,  ending  with  April;  and  the 
summer,  or  hot  and  dry  season,  beginning  with  May  and 
ending  with  October  The  mean  rainfall  from  IS39  to 
1S45  at  Algiers  was  36  inches,  31  of  which,  or  six-sevenths, 
fell  in  winter,  and  only  5,  or  one-seventh,  in  summer.  It 
was  thug  distributed : — 

iDebM. 
May 

Jane 

July 0 

August Oi 

September I 

October 2J 


lachea. 

November 5 

December 8 

January 6 

Febrimry 5 

Jlarch 3 

April 4 

31 


u 


In  1S43  rain  fell  on  90  days,  as  follows  : — 


November 
December 
Jae  nary  . 
February 
March  . 
April   ,     , 


Dora.    MigbU. 
10  ...  10 


5 

10 
9 
9 
I 

44 


2 
7 
7 
6 
2 

34 


78 


May    .    ,  . 

June  .    .  . 

July    .     .  . 

Au^at    .  , 

September  . 

Ortober  .  . 


IMt*.    Nlglili 


3 
2 
0 
0 
2 
3 

10 


1 

0 
0 
0 
0 

1 


12 


*  Mddecine  et  Hyt^^ne  deg  Pays  chands  et  spjcialement  do 
I'Alg^rie  et  dei  Colomea.  Far  le  Doctettr  Adolphe  Anaand.  Paris, 
1853.    (ChallameL) 

D02 


504 


ALOESXA. 


1 


X>r.  Ann*nd  gtrc*  Ci"  m  tlie  mttat  anminl  tompemlure 
of  Algiers: — fii'vt  (junrler,  &:>*;  oecond,  66";  tliinl,  77'; 
Iburlli,  GV";  =04^  Hut  tlieee  IrimeeU-ia)  meuns  ant  vary 
dcvi'plivo.     Ottolier  and  Mnrcli  are  wnvm,  JamiAry  m  vnAd. 

Thu  utnioHpbvrt',  livatotl  \>y  th«  Ixiroing  l>i-futli  of  the 
scirocco,  or  wind  from  lli«  IXtwrl,  tlom  not  iixtmlly  cool 
down  Diitil  tb«  end  of  Uctob<;r.  At  that  eptn-U  or  varlj' 
in  Morember,  the  air  cools  with  n  wc^Wrly  «-tiid,  cloud) 
form  oil  tlie  eky,  iiixl  kiicU  tovrciittid  rain  fnlN,  that  only 
lioutiOK  very  well-built  can  resist  tbem,  and  the  smallest 
toir^nt  liecnmea  an  imnetanus  river,  inundatini;  the  plains. 
WiiiUt  the  pIftinB  nnd  valleys  are  Uiiis  inundated  by  the 
rDinfiiU,  f^naw  hlU  on  the  niountain  zi>»f,  siul  remaiiitt  in 
mid-wintiT  doxvn  to  a  level  of  abuut  1000  f'nvt  idmve  Ihe 
eea.  Tbi!  Iii)jber  suminita  continue  while  <.iitb  »nnvt  from 
November  to  .March,  and  some  of  the  hij^hoal  njoimlai 
cuelt  OS  the  Juijiirn  (7000  fi-el],  are  snow-eoverfd  for 
nKiiithi:  of  the  yenr.  We  oiirst-lvcH  found  masses  of  sn 
abovi'lV-TiIct'el-Hiid,  overlooking  the  Deitort  at  an  ebrvuliun 
oi'&fiOQ  feet,  on  the  2olh  of  Aiiril.  Snow  ceUlom  liillg  on 
the  shore,  but  when  it  docs,  it  mclls  at  once,  a^  on  the 
Genoese  Kiviern.  Snovr  thus  fell  nt  Algit-m  in  1^45,  nnd 
there  WL-rc  both  enow  nnd  ice  in  1812.  In  tbc  Al-forin^ 
Sahuni,  beyond  Teniet,  in  the  hijcli  plains  of  tbe  Cliotts^^H 
salt-wati-r  lakes,  the  cold  in  winter  is  often  ve^  svvcnP 
On  the  loth  of  April,  18'1'7,  there  were  two  te«t  of  snow  on 
tliwc  i>hiin<i,  and  uitvoncinf;  troopH  have  freijiieHtly  been 
driven  back  by  tbe  inolemency  of  Hie  wentber, 

In  the  retreat  from  Constantine  the  Frencb  were  obliged 
to  nuKc  thi;  nipgc  and  to  retire,  not  «o  mud)  from  th« 
ri^JK^ance  of  tbe  Araba,  as  iVuni  the  inclemency  o(  the 
eenson.  In  January,  1616,  the  disasters  of  the  campaign 
of  Ilussia  were  reproduced  on  a  email  sciile;  tbe  Siiit 
column,  ex pcwed  to  snovr-stormii  in  tbe  mountain*  of  Bou 
Tuleb,  was  oblli;;ed  to  return  to  S^tif  with  bSO  cases  of 
frozen  exlremitiea,  leaving  on  tbe  road  iO&  dead  soldiers 
(January  3). 

The  tnuct  frequent  wimls  in  winter  are  the  west  atiil 
iiortli-wtsL  from  the  Atlantic,  and  llie  norlb-eaat  from  lite 
Mediterraiieoii ;  the  loaal  frciiucDt  !•  tlio  south,  or  bcIixkco, 


BAINPALL — ATMOSPHERIC  MOISTURE — DEW.    565 

itself  a  cold  wind  when  the  mountains  are  covered  with 
anow.  When  the  wind  blows  from  the  norlh-west,  or 
south-west,  and  a  feeling  of  coolness  is  experienced,  rain 
may  be  predicted  without  consulting  the  thermometer. 
This  sea-wind  ie  so  loaded  with  moisture  that  contact  with 
the  cool  mountdns  is  sufficient  to  discharge  it  in  rain. 
During  these  rains  the  air  is  so  moist  that  the  wet  and  dry 
thermometers  all  but  mark  saturation. 

As  in  England,  and  in  every  other  country,  there  are 
occasionally  esceptional  winters,  winters  of  unusual  drought 
at  Algiers  and  in  the  lower  plains.  It  was  so  a  few  winters 
ago,  and  a  famine  was  the  result. 

In  April  the  rains  become  less  frequent,  the  sky  is  less 
covered  with  clouds,  the  weather  is  warmer.  May  is  the 
finest  month  of  the  year,  although  the  acirocco  sometimes 
blows  towards  the  latter  part,  and  gives  rise  to  extreme 
heut. 

During  the  six  summer  montha  the  aky  is  of  a  pure 
blue,  the  light  intense,  and  the  heat  very  great,  especially 
if  the  wind  blows  from  the  Desert,  which  it  does  for  about 
twenty-five  or  thirty  days,  on  an  average,  at  different 
periods.  The  inJiabitants  of  the  coast  are  then  better  off 
than  those  of  the  interior,  as  the  air  is  refreshed  by  the 
sea-breeze.  The  thermometer  is  olten  at  98,  blood  heat, 
and  sometimes  much  higher.  The  falling  of  the  ther- 
mometer at  sunset  is  sulficient  to  produce  so  abundant 
a  deposit  of  dew  that  it  saturates  everything  whenever 
the  wind  is  in  a  northern  quarter.  When  it  blows  from 
the  Desert,  the  air  is,  on  tlie  contrary,  very  dry.  These 
climate  conditions  produce  fevers,  dysentery,  ophthalmia, 
and  other  tropical  diseases. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  April  we  were  in  the 
railway  car  at  Reliziuno,  the  temporary  terminus  of  the 
railway,  now  completed  to  Oran.  At  twelve  we  arrived 
at  Oran,  a  clean  seaport  presenting  a  thoroughly  French 
aspect;  and  here  my  exploration  of  Algt^ria  ceased  for 
want  of  time  to  continue  it,  but  my  object  had  been 
fultilled. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

TUNIS    AKD    TCKI8I^ 

tOTAOR    raOH    ClOLim— fllTCATlOX— TRB     nTT—VMn'ATKM^'^ 

oaudo— 'GUUMUiit — Ti'Ni.stt — tiik  cukaik. 

Os-  Sunda;,  May  9td,  IS7-t,  I  embarked  Tor  Tnnis  at 
Ca(;liari,  in  Sardinia,  at  ei\  t.v.,  \t>  a  very  tolerable  Italian 
nk^umi-r,  built  at  GIm;;ow,  ttei  arc  moet  of  the  ItiUiin  sl«amen. 
Th<!  north-west  wind,  whicb  tittd  been  «ouniiii<;  down  tbe 
plains  of  Sardinia  all  tbe  time  I  watt  tbere,  burrviti);  ta 
Cfiitnil  Africii,  belpcd  ub  across,  altboa->h  Kiving*  nae  to  a 
very  heavy  hod.  I  was,  however,  prepared  to  encnnnter 
rough  weather  in  thi»  part  of  tbe  Meditemin«ai).  no  did  not 
feel  a{;grieved.  On  the  nouUi  vliores  of  the  Mediterranran 
in  the  winter,  tbe  wind  ia  generally  north-west  or  norlh- 
east,  no  doubt  owinji  to  the  attraction  eierciscd  by  tbv 
Deeert  of  Sahara.  Thus  even  wbon  the  baronielcr  is  high, 
and  tbe  wratber  its  line,  there  in  mo«lly  in  wintvr,  pcrhiipa 
bIko  in  Niinimer,  an  ugitiiled  «ca  near  the  eoasl,  iiistcjid  of 
the  calm  which  often  rvi)j;ns  <in  tbe  north  coa»t  of  the  llrdi- 
terraneau.  Such,  at  leiut,  I  have  found  it  in  epring,  and 
the  remark  has  been  eonlirmed  by  nuuticul  men.  Tiie 
exiatenoe  of  all  but  eonelant  north  winils  during  winter  ui 
•prJDg  on  tbf  tioiith  Mborrjt  of  the  Mtivliterran«aii,  owing '  _ 
the  attruction  of  the  Sahara,  is  an  important  fact  with  ro< 
gard  to  clintiitc  und  vegetation,  aa  explained  in  the  preced- 
ing ohapttT. 

Tunis  is  situated  at  tlin  baao  of  •  wide  gnlf  or  bay,  oil' 
■trip  of  rising  ground  between  and  on  tbe  margiD  of  two 
large  Malt-wati^r  lakcn,  and  is  ten  mites  from  the  wa  and 
frem  ibc  landing  port  of  Galvtta.  It  is  connevteil  with 
tbe  btter  by  a  railway,  built  with  Knglinh  capital  and 
managed  by  Knglish  allidals.  It  is  in  latitude  Ro"  9W  N., 
and  longitude  lil°  1«'  K. ;  Am  miles  east  of  Algiere,  X7a 
aortb-west  of  Tripoli,  IQ')  south  of  Sanlinin,  and  seven 
dognoBf  or  -i-iO  milmt  south  of  Iliu  Oenouae  Riviera.     TIm 


TUXia   VERT  EA8TEBN— BAZAARS. 


5C7 


population  is  ISO.flOO — n  mixture  of  Moors,  Turku,  Anls, 
Jews,  «iid  CIimtiaiiR. 

TuDiK  \a  llioruujtlily  eastern  in  it«  character  ;  the  etroi-ts 
nrc  mere  lanes  or  alleys  a  few  feet  only  in  width,  thriiii>;li 
which  no  GurriA?i's  can  or  (1»  pn«c.  lititu  anil  thure  are 
narrow  aLrcct«  of  lliu  naine  type,  Imt  cuviired  over,  winch 
are  called  baiuars.  Oa  each  ftide  of  ttii'so  narrow  structA 
are  the  shops,  which  consist  of  recesiies  from  six  to  twelve 
feet  wide,  and  the  same  in  depth  ;  they  ocwupy  the  eiittrs 
front,  which  is  tliiu  cuinplvtvly  open.  On  a  counter  on  one 
side  are  the  ^o<lti,  and  behind,  or  on  a  counter  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  sita,  cioss-le^ed,  the  merclLant,  Turk,  Aral*,  or 
Jew.  Each  covered  area  of  alleys  which  constitute*  » 
bajuwr  is  j^n«ratly  devoted  to  one  trade,  the  )'liopkeci)eni  all 
selling  the  nme  ffootU.  Thiut  tiicre  U  a  bazaar  for  jewellers, 
others  for  drui^-niiTohantj^,  woollen-merohaTits,  Rrain-mor- 
chanf,  and  so  on.  Tiiesu  baxaars  are  rcguliited  by  certuiti 
laws  and  custonu,  like  tJie  gnild*  of  tha  north  in  the  Middla 
Ages,  which  they  reproduce  in  a  <|uuiut  Oriental  form.  Kvei-y 
now  and  then  camels,  laden  with  merchandize,  or  with 
ponnicni  foil  of  city  reTujie,  or  a  donkey  curryiii[»  a  veilud 
Turkish  lady  like  a  bundle  of  wonUun  or  linen  clothes, 
paw  by,  and  oblige  the  fnot  {Kinscuf^ei's  to  stand  aside.  On 
the  whole,  Tunio  aii|)eai-cd  to  me  tlie  must  strictly  Oriental 
city  I  have  seen,  mot^  so  even  th:in  AI;;i(;rK,  Smyrna,  or 
Con^  tan  lino  pie.  Pcrhnjw  this  ic  lurainse  the  foreign  or 
Fr.iuk  clement  in  not  prupoiiiouully  so  numerous  oa  in 
any  of  Uic  Kantern  cities  named. 

The  City  of  Tunis  is  live  miles  in  drcumfi-renco,  and  it 
mrrouitiled  by  lolly  walls.  There  nrc  6re  gates,  and  thirty* 
live  movigtiM,  which  1  did  not  itee,  as  "infidelii"  ore  not 
allowed  to  enter.  When  I  was  there,  the  weather  (vas  nod 
had  loD^  been  tine,  so  the  town  was  clean ;  but  not  bvint; 
paved,  it  is  said  to  bi<  ankle-deep  in  mud  in  niiay  weiithcr 
in  wiut<-r.  Alto^-tlii-r,  it  i*  so  tli'iroughly  Maliommedan 
and  Kiutvru  in  iU  aupcct,  that  this  fact  alone  makes  it  worth 
viaitinif.  es|>eciuily  for  travellers  un.'vcqtiaintcd  with  Oriental 
Itle  and  ways. 

There  is  no  regular  harbour  for  vcwels,  which  have  lo 
auohor  in  the  roads,  that  is  in  a  rather  exposed  bay,  a  mile 


;8 


nms  AKD  TUSKIA. 


from  tHittn.  Th?  cli»ml«r):ation  hiu  ftlmfi  to  take  pl»M 
in  boats,  aiid  R>mL-Umc>  it  i»  dilficult  or  danucnxM,  aiwl 
pwsenjen  have  to  Kmairi  on  board  nntil  Ut*  weatlMr 
moderates.  We  tvcr«  fortiinpt«,  and  liftd  ro  difEcalty  id 
liindiiif;  on  nrrivnl  at  ihv  p>:>rt  mnd  Tillage  of  (inlotta,  wlirre 
wc  took  the  Kii^Uvh  niiUTiiy  to  Tunin.  We  were  plea*Ml  to 
find,  aa  vfc.  had  fotincl  I>efurL>  in  other  ouloMlie-wAy  iwrtA 
of  the  Mei)it«mnean,  that  the  Ettain-ensine  and  nulwajr 
earna^  were  made  in  England.  On  thv  laltvr  were  IM 
familiar  wonle,  firet,  evcond,  uDd  lliird  «)a«K,  and  inside  mtn 
announoemontK  in  KnglUh,  vide  hj  »tde  with  the  Bam«  in 
Arabic — a  lingular  juxtU|)r'!<ition.  At  Tunis  there  i§  now- 
only  one  foreign  hotel,  the  Ildtel  de  Paris,  kept  hy  a  very 
nmiuhio  old  French  ex-en gint-kT.  Finding  his  own  huoimiM 
at  Tunis  a  very  poor  one,  he  drvoled  some  Bpare  cspitdl  to 
buildinc  a  new  hot«1.  It  will  be  quite  »  hindeome  odilio* 
when  bnished,  which  U  now  far  rmm  being  ili*  cam. 
Wonderfiil  to  say,  this  ex-engineer  does  not  yet  know  bow 
to  charge;  no  doubt,  however,  he  will  >oon  learu  this  part 
of  lib  hurinen. 

The  norninff  after  my  arrival,  Xfay  5,  I  calliod  forth  to 
nomine  the  vrgetatiim.  Thm-  i^  no  fnil'lie  gunlcn  and  no 
Vt>gi!ta(ion  inoiiU^  ihe  walla,  with  the  rxcvpliou  of  a  few 
AiUntUs  trees  at  the  entrance  gate,  and  some  courtyard 
gardens  of  n  few  feet  in  diametvr  in  tho  less  crowdiMl  part 
of  the  town,  n<uir  the  «alt-ivatc-r  lake.  In  one  of  the#c, 
opposite  the  hotel,  thete  u-oe  Ki;;  trees  in  fruit  und  leaf, 
Acacia  and  Ailnntns,  with  merely  terminal  leaves;  Almond 
trees  in  leaf  und  fruit,  a  few  white  Bengal  Uose^,  some 
Petunias  and  Stocks,  Ititnanas,  naked,  raj^fod;  n  Pear  In-u 
•ml  II  tJheny  tree,  the  former  in  flower,  tJte  latter  just 
forming  the  fruit :  and  aome  amall  Orange  trees,  from  aeve 
to  t«n  feet  high.  I  only  saw  one  I'aTm  in  the  town,  i 
Plxcnix  diielylilVra,  twenty  fi-et  high,  at  iJio  eiitri 
This  little  garden  must  have  been  all  but  Iea6<«a  all  wint«r 
— indeed  until  far  into  A))ril,  tho  tree*  named  l-einj;  all 
diriduous,  exei-)>l  the  Orange  trues.  It  wim  very  ehi-ltLTed. 
inside  the  African  eity,  and  yet  in  any  jiart  of  ibu  mo 
proUoted  north  Mvditcrraneau  sltore,  from  Cannes  to  1^ 


THB  BAUDO — ^VEGETATION. 


£69 


or'  in  the  ttbeltwed  nllqra  of  Corfu,  vegetation '!<  quite  as 
Gir  advanced  at  the  Hme  date. 

The  two  Balt-walijr  lakes,  witti  the  ton-D  bctn-ccn  tlicm, 
occtiny  tli«  ocntre  of  n  wide  pluiu.  limited  wiiit,  wi-st,  and 
si>uUi  Iiy  low  mountain  rid^^i'*.  About  ii  milt;  I'Tuni  the 
nrclnvaj'  loading  out  of  the  tioulh  wall,  tbeie  ia  a  palaco  of 
tbti  Bey's,  "the  Bardo,"  which  lie  usually  inlialiita  in  winter. 
A  mile  further  on  are  eome  ^^rdvtis  Mon^intf  to  one  »f  the 
Miniftt«rs  of  State;  and  two  miloit  further,  ut  Mandn,  are 
the  gardens  beloni^inj^  to  the  Jley  biiiiiielf.  1  devoted  ao 
i-ntire  day  to  their  examination  {May  0). 

Thu  Ray'e  ooutitry  palace  presented,  ns  is  usual  in  the 
Eust,  a  central  t^irdeit  entirely  eutiuuiided  by  tbc  liiiildin);s, 
and  nil  bnt  i\w/actiniH«  of  the  one  mentinnud  in  the  town. 
It  eontamed  Ailantua,  Almond,  Acacia,  Pijr,  Olive,  Pin 
andamallOmnf^u  trees.    Tbcro  was  one  hnnddomi;  Araucarii 
exoebii,  twuiily  lent  bi'dlt,  and    a  good    I'itltu — no  (lower 
whatever.     In  winter  it  must  be  as  naked  as  an  EutjIisU'^ 
ore)i:ird  without  evertti-oenti. 

The   rmul    from   I'linis   to   the   Bardo   was   flanked   hf 
avenues  of  Acacia,  Melia  Azedarach  in  llower,  Ailantus,  and 
Mulberry,  fruit  inj;.     The  lU-id*  were  growing  bearded  Corn, 
Barley,  and  Teazles,  whilst  in  the  ditches  and  in  the  fallow 
fieldii  were  NeltW,  Plantain,  varie^-atcil  'niistleit  in  greal, 
numU-TS,   Dock*,  MuntJinl,  Corn    Po]>|)ieH,  red   and   whitM 
Clover,   Convolvulus,    Daiaiea,  Hi>i-a[^-,    Mallow,   Vetchti^f 
yellow  CornHower,  or  Chrysdnthetnum  sc^etum,  so  abundant 
in  Sardinia,  with  brdgea  of  Opuntia,  but  not  growing  as 
luxuriantly  aa  in  Saidinia. 

Outaide  the  palace  tliero  vraa  a  rethvr  large  plantation  of 
Walnut  trees  without  a  leaf,  merely  bud*  dwelling ;  here  and, 
tbi^rc  were  Elder  tree*  in  flower.  The  KIder  grows  luxu- 
riantly in  Uio  vicinity  of  Tunis,  eometimex  ««  u  Inwh, 
sometimes  aa  a  large  tree.  The  Vine*  were  in  bud,  but  titu 
flowers  were  not  expanded. 

Tliu  (mIuco  of  the  Bey  was  interesting  in  ila  way,  prinet- 
pally  uH  illiialmting  the  prognm  of  European  idciw  and 
babils  in  a  tlniroiigMy  I'lu!>teru  ecntrv.  The  arohiteelure 
presented  nothing;  special   beyond  the  fact  that    ail   the 


570 


TVJnB  ASH  T15ULA. 


kalted  «at  oti  Ae  oeotnl 
■■mJ,  »  ■  — dly  the  t 

a^rfe— cwptte  mthiiiMiitiJ  Uii,Mt 
Soor,  FkmIi  niaU  ia  omMw  giUed 
HMD  is  weami-ule  &ira»bed  boLekaU 
nem  «m  thw  onsacaiad  vttk  the  ad 
J)MiJaM,oM«ftb«lMtnl9Mta  lifaaoy 
te  find  in  «  M— lawn  Bey's  palMc.    Hmm 
MM*  Lad  pietinei  and  poTtnita»  and  aa  iaaeMe  ammih^J 
MoatOB   cbcap   iplt   rreocb  doekm  aad  ■»!»*■ ;    aJl   tW 
di<da  bad  ati^pttl,  nut  od«  wa*  goinip.     Somc  of  ^*  fa»> 
Utrta  MCDied  duvto  luUve  tal«Dt,fartlkek««  oTjinMctm 
wcra  c|uit«  igtwrad,  aod  the  ravotirtto  sul^rct  waa  ua  »- 
piimnwnl  o(  ftiaoumn.     Tbb  u  ao  awfal  sobgacl,  vluok 
waa  awrullj'  treated,  and  1  mlly  lliinlc  no  EnmpeaB  ailMi 
of  BKxIcni  limn  cmil<l  be  pitlty  of  pwniine  mm*  pictam. 
TIm  )H>i>r  lifj  liail  widvtiUjr  bcco  vicUiiuzad  hy  kia  FkVMfc 
■oriiu  or  upboburon;  do  donlft  b«  bad  pud  for  ev^iy* 
Ibiiitf  I  «w  ita  wct^it  in  gold. 

Til*  (ford'^i'*  b«LMi|tin|r  to  thfl  Bef  and  to  bia  nunisteta,  a 
faw  milM  furtlifr  oti,  wirre  all  liut  comjilft^ly  ulrraaiKlfO  bjr 
Waib  Glltwn  or  iwruiy  fwl  bit;)),  VDlirciy  m  on  tlttt  oorth 
aidfl.  Thoy  MCD!  pnnci|>all}-  Oran^ire  urcbards,  eontainiag 
Uuadrfin  iif  Itmltliy,  bnithj-  OraRi(«  trm^s,  with  Gt«m8  0B«or 
two  Iwt  in  diaoiclvr,  but  not  ritinif  above  the  Wvrl  of  Iba 
ifall.  'I'liey  w«ra  plaiiUid  thickly,  but  iwt  to  thickly  aa  at 
Milia  in  SartltnU ;  aach  tree  waa  allowed  to  develope  iiftelf. 
Tbay  want  all  covcml  with  blot>som,  aa  is  the  case  on  ibd  ! 
aluiltond  iwrtli  •h«r«  of  the  Ihli-dilvrrancan  ut  tbts  vpodi, 
lltu  firat  wetk  in    May.     TItpru  were  otlu-r   fruit  tree*  ^Hl 

fruit  jiial  Nrt,  Cticrrti-H  llio  a4in«,  Kigx,  .Mulberrioi,  a  few 
LiOinoti  Lroun;  mcIi  troo  had  a  dcop  sniiccr  round  it  for 
lrri|pitio»,  and  tlittre  wan  a  plentiful  mipply  of  water.  Tlie 
Howara  were  not  mimurouH,  and  of  iJie  UHua)  kind*,  Bengal 
Boaaa,  Iiybridit  tilliiiif  out  Iwdii,  IV-tunia,  Verliena,  Abutilon,  I 
StiMik.  Tlii'  CViitil'ciHii  ItoM*  was  in  bud,  not  in  flou-«ri 
huildluia  AliidiiuiwoarmiMii  giting  out  of  llower,  Olmider  la 
budf  tiot  in  lluwor,  Canitua  two  fvot  out  of  ground. 


THE   BITINS  OF  CABTHAGE.  571 

my  return  to  Tunis  I  went  into  the  vegetable  market  and 
found  Broad  Beans,  Feae,  Cauliflowers,  Artichokes,  Radishes 
in  abundance ;  the  only  fruit  were  Oranges,  Ijemons,  and 
half-ripe  lioquata  (Eriobotrya) . 

The  following:  day  J  wont  to  visit  the  site  of  Carthage, 
about  eight  miles  north-east  of  Tunis,  on  an  eminence  over- 
looking the  sea.  We  passed  through  a  plain  which  might 
have  been  in  England.  There  was  nothin£;  Oriental  aboat 
it,  not  a  Palm  tree  within  sight ;  merely  fields,  fallow  and 
covered  with  the  plants  already  named,  or  planted  with 
cereals.  Teazles,  and  Beans — but  by  far  the  greater  part 
was  fallow.  The  soil  seemed  thin  and  meagre,  aud 
thoroughly  exhausted  by  centuries  of  cultivation  without 
manure.  We  met  the  Bey  going  to  a  country  house  he 
has  near  the  sea,  and  which  he  inhabits  during  the  summer 
heats ;  he  was  in  a  European  brougham,  and  would  have 
passed  all  but  unobserved  had  it  not  been  for  his  Oriental 
military  escort. 

The  far-famed  ruins  of  Carthage  consist  simply  of  six- 
teen cifiterns  for  water,  placed  in  juxtaposition  to  each 
other,  sixty  feet  long,  twenty-live  feet  wide,  twenty  deep, 
arched  over,  and  balt'-rull  of  rain-water.  They  have  been 
uncovered  by  excavntion,  and  are  still,  generally  speaking, 
in  good  repair,  on  the  rising  ground.  They  are  presumed 
to  belong  to  the  Romnn  period,  not  to  the  early  Cartha- 
ginian. No  doubt  the  ruins  of  old  Carthagi3  still 
remain  buried  in  the  half  mile  or  mile  that  separates 
them  from  the  sea.  We  had  taken  provisions  with  us,  aud 
we  made  an  "  ever  to  be  remembered"  al  fresco  picnio 
dinner  under  the  very  shadow  of  the  ruins.  We  thought 
and  talked  of  the  past,  of  Marius  sitting  on  the  same  spot 
and  musing  over  the  ruins  of  Carthage,  and  of  poor  Dido, 
whose  plaintive  speech  tu  ^neas,  destined  to  deceive  her  so 
cruelly  and  perfidiously,  1  have  lor  many  years  repeated 
to  myself — 

"  Non  ignara  mali,  miseris  suocnrrere  disco." 

The  Bey  of  Tunis,  a  tributary  of  the  Sublime  Porte, 
governs  a  country  extending  over  20O  miles  from  north  to 
south,   from   the  Mediterranean  io   the  Desert,  and   120 


872 


TCKn  AM>  TUXISU. 


nilM  Troa  wwt  to  «Mt,  (rota  Algeria  to  the  ^fcditt 
■Dil  Tripoli.  The  weMlcro  parts  umI  the  ccutrv  of 
fcffioti  «n  QiountiiDona,  or  rather  hilljr.  Ute  Atb* 
taioi  gndu»i\f  npiriofc,  aa  it  wnt,  id  this  regioo. 
•ca-4%uL  b  low  and  marked  Itjr  ridj^  or  wsvo  of 
A  fair  omouat  of  rain  fatia  ia  Minter  in  oust  jeara,  bat 
not  altrajTB;  niaBta^  <l<iwa  th«  iDouataiD  n<tes,  it  pru 
rue  to  poiuk,  lakes,  tod  nunbn.  Tbqr  praaaiit  tb* 
peonliaritjr  of  bein^  mH,  probably  owing  to  the  exialvoac 
ofatll  in  th«  noil.  The  two  larjt«  lakes  north  aad  aouth  at 
Tuuia  ar«  iut«na«ly  salt,  and  enlivened  in  winter  by  flodu 
of  red  flnmineo*,  antl  bjr  hoala  of  watcr-rowl.  T1i«  Car-' 
tbaite  weter-KMrl  in  oon«idcrcd  a  ^rent  deliaer,  and  wn 
foond  it  M.  Thew  laliea  and  ponds,  as  they  parti^ly  dry  ia 
lummpr  from  vva|M>ration,  leave  Bslina  incriMlaUotis  on 
llx-ir  marfptia.  It  \»  no  dotibt  owing  to  tbeiraaltiuw  that 
Iticy  do  not  produce  malaria  dtlii-r  ou  ihu  low  or  the 
tii(r"i>r  crounda  of  Tnninia.  The  snnie  favt  is  n>itioed  io 
Saitliniii,  a«  also  in  Algeria,  wbere  salt  lakes  or  ^^AoiU  are 
niinii^ruiu  on  llic  sou tb -eastern  bsM:  of  the  Atlas.  Tlins^ 
Oristuiio,  ■unxiiinded  by  frc«b-wat«r  marshes  nnd  Ukn^  ia 
deoiuiBted  by  fuver,  05  wc  have  ei!«n,  whiUt  (.'ti)tliari, 
Mjunlly,  if  not  nwre,  hrmnied  in  by  inU-ntwIy  ult  lukus  asd 
■nsrslii!*,  i*  (MmiNinitiVL-ly  trc«  fniin  ntalariotu  fevers. 

Tbie  urntml   muuntnin  or   billy  re\g\oaa  of  IViniaia  art 
(Wvuicil  with  Olive  ttvtn,  und    Olive  oil  is  tbe  priiin|inl 
pro<lut.'t.     With  ibv  t-iueptioi)  of  the  Olive  tlivre  i«  lilt 
ullivr  Ireo  vr^vlation  lo  IwfiMind;  only  beie  aad  tliem 
few   PoinvKninntnH,  Carouiuui,  OjMinUati,  wilb  eome  scant 
]Milobi.«  of   B4rli>y   imd    Wbeul.      It   appi-iire    tbat  withl 
tlio  UhI  livo  yr*r»  3(I0,0I|IJ/,  worth  of  oil  lius  !«■«  rxporleJ' 
frain  Tunis,  ont'-lilih  diu-ct  to  Urt-ul  Britain,  Utu  re«l  to 
Italy  and  tVantc. 

From  the  iibove  datii  it  is  evident  tlm^  the  north  winds  ij 
winler  n>aeh  the  Tunit>  einut,  and  ii-nder  it*  tinprotwted 
litis liirllc red  slii>ri>s  iw  cold  ns,  if  not  coldur  ttiun,  tlic  pru- 
taoled  norllt  omsL  of  the  Itivicia.  Moreo<rer  these  winds, 
croaaing  the  MrditiTraiicun  on  tlicir  way,  ar«  damp  sa  well 
■a  cool,  and  a  <li>al  of  niin  falls.  Must  ol'  the  flowers  [  have 
named  liitd  U-eo  iu  full  yiory  in  uiy  Muutone  gardvii  einco 


CLIMATE.  573 

Fehrnary,  and  many  were  quite  out  of  flower  when  I  left 
(April  11).  Orange  trees  exist  in  Tunisia,  but  they  are 
miles  away  in  the  interior,  hidden  behind  sheltering  walU 
and  hedges,  only  to  be  seen  even  by  getting  inside.  The 
Palm  trees  in  and  around  the  city  are  su  few  that  they 
can  be  counted  on  the  fingers.  All  the  trees  I  saw  being 
deciduous  and  without  their  leaves  until  April  or  May,  the 
winter  aspect  of  the  country  must  be  as  bleak  as  that  of 
the  north  of  Europe  in  regions  where  evergreens  are 
nnlcnown. 

Such  is  Tunis,  both  as  regards  its  physical  aspect,  its 
vegetation,  and  its  climate.  Once  the  Orientalism  of  the 
city  has  been  investigated  and  has  liecome  familiar  it  is  a 
most  uninviting  abode— dull  in  fine  weather,  dirty  in  bad, 
t«n  miles  away  from  the  sea,  in  a  dreary  plain,  without 
walks,  gardens,  or  promenades,  either  inside  or  outside  the 
walls.  In  winter  cool  moist  north  winds  reign,  as  in 
Algeria,  totally  devoid  of  the  bracing,  tonifying  character 
of  the  dry  north  winds  which  prevail  in  the  sheltered  regions 
of  the  north  shore  of  the  Mediterranean ;  consequently  it 
is  only  suited  to  exceptional  forms  of  disease. 

If  a  mild,  moist  climate  is  really  required  for  exceptional 
cases  I  can  see  no  reason  whatever  why  Tunis  should  be 
preferred  to  Algiers.  The  latter,  with  its  numerous  social 
resources  and  all  the  advantages  of  advanced  European 
civilization,  is  infinitely  prelerable  as  a  winter  residence. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

ASIA  MIKOR— S3JTENA— EPHESUS— AIDIN— TBOETATION— 
CUHATE. 

Thk  only  part  of  Asia  Minor  that  I  have  pereonally  ex- 
plored  is  Smyrna  and  the  country  that  extends  between 
that  city  and  Epheaus.  My  visit  to  these  regions  was  paid 
in  May,  18T3,  on  the  way  from  Athens  to  Constantinople. 

The  steamer  passes  between  the  island  of  Scio  and  the 
mainland,  round  a  promontory  directed  due  north,  and  then 
enters  the  wide,  deep,  and  beautiful  Gulf  of  Smyrna,  taking 
a  south-eastern  course.  The  approach  to  Smyrna  is  ex- 
quisitely lovely  on  a  fine  summer  day,  such  as  wc  enjoyed. 
The  tiulf  is  hounded  on  each  side  by  low  mountains,  about 
1000  or  1500  feet  high,  which  lise  gently  from  the  shores, 
and  thus  limit  it  on  all  sides,  except  towards  the  open  sea, 
to  the  north.  Smyrna  is  situated  at  the  south-eastern  angle 
of  the  bay  which  the  gulf  forms,  at  the  foot  of  a  plain, 
which  joins  the  hills  or  mountains  in  the  background,  also 
by  a  gentle  rise.  I  and  my  fellow  passengers,  marvelling 
at  the  extreme  beauty  of  the  site,  were  anxious  to  land, 
connecting  the  name  of  Smyrna  and  its  population  of 
150,000  with  visions  of  Eastern  magnificence,  of  southern 
fertility,  and  of  all  but  tropica)  vegetation. 

Smyrna  is  the  most  important  and  populous  town  in  Asia 
Minor,  in  long.  38°  2h'  N.,  lat.  27°  7'  E.  The  great 
security  of  its  harbour,  sheltered  from  all  winds,  and  entered 
by  the  splendid  Gulf,  has  made  it  a  favourite  commercial 
mart  from  the  earliest  times.  It  has  been  a  great  com- 
mercial centre  from  the  early  days  of  Greek  history,  and 
although  repeatedly  destroyed,  or  all  but  destroyed,  by  war, 
earthquakes,  fire,  or  pestilence,  it  has  always  risen  again  from 
its  ashes  with  renewed  prosperity.  The  city  ascends  from 
the  shore  of  the  bay  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  and 


SMYRNA   FROM   THE  SEA^nE  REAUTY.     575 


looks  qttitfi  impoains  na  it  U  appronclied  from  tho  OiilT.  I 
was  [irepared  by  what  I  had  nwl  for  wiilc  kI  rwt«,  fiiii;  houitdt, 
Gplendicj  qti>)'8,  nnci  Orioi)t»l  magnificenoi-,  but  I  was  iniHe- 
rably  dunppoiiited  on  landinjt.  I  found  the  town  a  mere 
roKss  of  narrow  Innes  and  of  small  wnodoii  houses,  hiiddted 
to ij:«tlier— without  a  monument,  public  building,  or  open 
space  to  r<.>d('<.-m  it.  On  the  aliore,  inetead  of  hand!iom« 
<}tm)B  na  dotcribed,  1  found  merely  booths,  coffee  shwU, 
Iinrns,  wkrebouses,  on  pilra  advaiicinf*  into  the  w-iit«r.  A 
sea-wall  waB  bpinj;  built  nboiil  thirty  feet  in  advance  of 
these  pile-«Hpp(»rt>.'d  Ktiniiiioi,  Imt  for  the  time  it  only  miule 
mattt'nt  wone,  leaving  a  pool  of  festering  wwemge  between 
itself  and  tbe  raniBbaolcle  shore  houses.  There  were,  how- 
ever,  raanr  vessels  quite  nenr  the  shore,  aneborcd  in  deep 
wat4-r,  and  the  fhew  and  bttzuar*  wtrre  untiuealionably  full 
of  giiiidH.  The  hotels  are  very  bad — worse  than  in  the  moat 
unfrequented  Continciitjil  towns. 

One  niffbt  I  wdk  itmtkencd  beforo  dayliifbt  by  ft  cry  of 
"Firet"  Tlic  inlmhitanto  of  the  hotel  were  evidently  in 
grcut  alarm,  »o  I  drea»ed  and  followed  tliom  to  tbe  top  of 
the  house,  where  there  was  a  Hat  roof.  There  was,  truly, 
a  i;reat  lire  about  n  quarter  of  a  mile  from  us,  an<I  a  very 
ffmnd  sight  it  was.  I  soon,  iiovrevcr,  {»ot  tired,  and  went 
ti)  bed  again.  The  next  rooming  at  Weaklaiit  I  learnt  that 
the  tire  was  put  oat,  but  that  it  had  been  v<<ry  alartning, 
and  at  one  time  it  was  feared  that  tbv  entire  town  would 
bo  burnt.  1  wa*  the  only  one  who,  in  ignorance,  slept 
through  it;  all  the  other  inmates  had  packed  up  tlieir 
^oods  and  diattole,  and  kept  ready  to  depart.  Had  there 
boon  a  wind  the  entire  totvn,  or  a  great  part  of  it,  mi;fbt 
have  fallen  a  suerifiec  to  the  llames,  on  in  ISil,  when  nioro 
than  half  the  town  was  burnt.  The  houses  beini;  of  woud, 
and  the  streets  so  narrow  in  tlieve  Eu«tern  eitJex,  tbero  ia 
only  one  way  to  stop  a  fire,  that  ia  to  pull  down  the  adjoin- 
ing houM^,  which  they  did  suocessfuliy  in  this  caae ;  but 
with  a  atrang  wind  this  plan  often  fails. 

The  vegetation  in  and  around  Smyrna  I  soon  found  waflj 
all   but  that   of  the  north  of  Kurojie.     I    nskcd   for  the ' 
Botanie  (iiirden,  or  lor  the  public  ^tdens,  but  thone  whom 
1  addressed  did  not  even  Know  what  1  meant.     Nutbiiig 


I       ladd 


676 


ASIA   MIXOR. 


of  the  kinil  exists.  I  wu,  however,  afaown  ■  t«a-« 
of  iltoat  ten  sem,  and  w>tnc  market  fanleoB  in  the  nci 
of  tb*;  eitjr.  The  t«a-gsnlea  naa  evidently  an  old  On 
orcbaril,  Iwhiod  tlio  town,  which  sheltvnHl  il,  and 
proltoted  by  an  i-«rth-wall  about  ciglitceu  ftwt  bi){ii  to  tho 
north,  ftml  by  true*  plmit^'d  kII  round.  Tbe  OraO}^  lr«et 
wore  bealliiy,  in  bud  but  not  tn  flower,  mootly  about 
flftwB  or  twenty  yean  old,  not  reachin;;  above  tJi«  pro- 
teoting  wall.  Tbero  wfrc  Olcandera  in  bud,  bnt  not  in 
flowi^r;  in  Alf^ria  1  fotiml  the  Oleander  lilUog  watercourNi 
on  Miiiint  AlU«,  in  full  lluiver,  on  April  20.  Tbitre  were 
■l»o  Mi-liu  Axedaracb,  Pomc^^natc,  in  »\Mne  flnwt^r; 
Itobinis  I'seado  AciMia,  Tiiuuirink,  Mullierry,  Kuonymiu 
juponion — inudi  grown  eviTywhereaaabuBb,  for  protection, 
when  protection  U  only  rcfpiircU  for  sis  or  ten  fwt  from 
the  ground,  or  to  compltto  tho  prot-.-clion  given  by  tri-vs. 
Tbe  Klderl*rry  troo,  or  Sumbumx  r.ic<-iiiosA,  was  (;ro»iiMg 
in  great  luxurinnoo.  I  was  ntthcr  »iirpri>«d  to  Rnd  it  );riiw- 
inj*  all  over  Grcocc,  and  in  Aii^  Minor,  upparently  i^uit^F  nt 
home  wilb  an  inteiuely  hot  aumnier  climate,  for  it  is  so 
comnionlv  met  with  even  in  tho  nortli  of  EiiglaDd,  gruwing 
Bud  fruitintf  without  cnrc  or  protection,  that  it  wcinM  <iiiit« 
one  of  our  own  Irev*.  'llicre  were  only  a  few  lieiigHl  Il^ms, 
U«raiiiuinK,  and  Antirrhinums  in  this  oo-culk-d  giudeu, 
whieh  was  one  mass  of  weeds  two  fcut  high,  and  in  an 
undeecribable  atate  of  devolution  and  iii-iflect.  There  wiui 
ieif/f  in  the  middle,  otieu  on  Sundays  I  was  told.  The 
otlier  gardens  I  saw,  belonging  to  Smyrna  n)erchant«,  wore 
of  the  same  chaninter, — enclosed  with  wallx  and  planted 
with  vegetables,  principally  Deans,  Peas,  Tomatoes,  M«loi)a^ 
Articliokes,  between  the  rows  or  squarm  of  fruit  trocs  ;  a]ao 
with  Orange,  Pear,  Pomi-granalv  I  pic*,  cultivated  for 
rale;  C'berrii.'x  htill  gn^-n,  Pe.im  not  brger  than  Filbert*. 
I  aaw  Hcvvrnl  large  Palme  in  good  health,  and  no  doubt 
more  could  be  grown  were  they  wantod. 

There  were  small  Fig  trees  in  tliesc  orchard*,  but  I  looked 
in  vain  for  txeea  giving  tlie  promise  of  such  t^gs  as  we  gel 
under  the  name  of  Smyrna  Figs,  nor  did  1  see  any  on  sale 
in  the  town,  although  there  were  bnDkelfuU  everywhere  of 
UiQ  kind  of  fig*  which  are  found  all   over  tho  WKith  of 


CLIMATE — mrrsa  of  ephebtts. 


577 


Eiirop*',  dry,  linril,  half  wiittff  fiipi,  wlik-h  we  English  <le- 
p|>ute  stud  reject.  I  was  toM  tliut  tlio  so-culti'ti  Smyrnii 
Fiya  were  produced  fifty  IIlil^^8  more  suntli,  io  tbe  vicinity 
of  the  town  of  Aidiii,  IwyondEpliMus— a  iniioli  warmer  and 
tnori!  »ti>-lti>rod  locality. 

It  appears  from  wlint  I  K-nrnt  r>n  tlic  spat  that  tbo 
winter  colil  ii^  nflcn  very  hcvi'ic  iit  Smyrnn,  wltioU  cx)>latiis 
the  ulieeiice  of  simtlierii  vegetutiim.  A  fyw  ytars  ago  the 
thermometer  fell  many  dejiTore  Mow  the  frcu7.ing  point, 
and  Ifilletl  all  tliu  Olivu  tr«.^i.  A'^liuiw  nt  thRniii[>t.*X|>)uiti!t 
tlii«  fiiut;  tlii;ii;  arc  no  aiiBiciiiitly  hi;.'h  mountains  to  the 
north,  between  Smyrna  and  the  mouths  of  the  Dnnntie, 
distant  only  five  degrees  of  laliluili-,  or  oOO  miles,  to  com- 
pletely shelter  it  from  north  wind*  ilwit-tHlitiij  Irom  this 
rejlion,  and  the  Danube  a  frozen  down  to  the  sea  every 
winter.  There  is  protection,  hut  it  is  not  sullicient  tu 
tecun:  immunity  from  cold  in  winter,  and  a  koutlierii 
vegetation. 

The  {Treat  object  of  curiosity  and  interest  to  all  IravcllerH 
who  vi*it  Smynia  id  the  rnins  of  Ephcsnn,  tho  grciil  city  of 
former  ditytt,  celebrat«d  bi>lh  as  n  lt<iiin.-<hing  Greek  colony 
and  as  the  abode  of  the  Apostle  Paul,  in  the  early  dnys  of 
Chrislinoity.  They  arc  situated  forty-ei^ht  miles  dtie  south, 
on  a  new  miWuil  opened  to  Aidln,  ii  Turktiih  town,  a* 
stated,  the  ctnire  of  the  Vig  trade.  I  and  my  travelling 
friends  formed  a  party  and  hired  a  special  train  tor  th« 
purjKMC.  We  Ktarted  at  t«n  and  reaelied  by  twelve,  mo»t 
oomlbrtably,  the  Epheeus  station  near  the  ruin-t.  On  leaving 
Smyrna,  wo  gradually  ascended,  paseing  throu;;h  a  (ilaiii 
bounded  on  each  aide  by  monnluins  leveral  thoi»anil  liiut 
biRih,  uutil  wa  rcaobed  an  altilndc  of  500  feet  by  Uiu 
baromcu-r.  Wo  then  descended  a  nmre  rapid  slope  until 
we  came  to  KphcHUM,  nearly  on  the  bcji  level.  At  a  few 
miles  distance  Iruu  Smyriui  there  were  some  xmall  itraitteted 
Olive  and  Fij»  trees,  the  remains,  no  doubt,  of  Ui«  former 
plantationii,  witli  vineyanl*  and  c^-r«aU,  but  theso  oeaoed  us 
we  receded  frum  the  sea  and  reached  tiit:  allilnde  of  400' 
Icet.  We  then  found  ourselves  on  a  barren  plain,  with 
men^ly  here  and  tWte  patches  of  ground  cultivated  willi 
cereals,  in  tbe  viduity  of  amall  village).     Arouad  tbcM't 


u 


r  X 


578 


ASIA   MINOB. 


viUnscB,  in  nrcfegrdg  n«B*nil!y  prot«ctc4  !)>•  walls,  wa 
»miill  Fig,  Almond,  and  MullMim-  tr««,  ami  V'inw  ;  ot4« 
niiio  tiie  vast  plain  was  abaixloned  and  tlesoUtr,  mure  i 
than  the  plnin  rullpyo  of  Algoria,  which  it  rc«i- milled.  JiU 
before  wc  i'eachi:d  K|)ht.-9:ui',  at  t)ic  «i>iitl)  busv  of  tlie  liitl  \te 
had  cros»cd,  which  »lielt«red  Ihi!  spot,  we  came  on  n  nr«\v 
of  infiffiiilicont  Fis  trecn,  ae  Inrt^  ns  ocvt-iity-year  0;lk'^ 
which  wc  wen;  told  wi-rc  the  hi-triiiniiij;  of  Uie  ;»rent  Fij 
(ii-diaiil.i.  The  adilitioiiul  proteoliun  f'lom  the  north  atl'ord^ 
by  tlie  low  liill  had  entirely  chnngod  tiio  cliraato  cnn- 
ditioDS,  and  had  enabled  tUvni  to  reuuh  thw  it|>lendic]  df- 
velopmcnt. 

At  the  Htfltion  we  found  a  enfficient  nnmlier  of  horf««, 
ordered  befiirvhand,  lo  mount  our  party,  and  sl.irted  for  thi- 
mini'  nndt*r  the  direction  of  a  guide.     'Hie  very  intcn.'stifig 
riiUiit  of  Kpheaus  are  aituftted  on  elevittions  wliicli  overic 
II  wide  pinin,  watered  by  a  e-mail  river  that  runs  into 
Hea  a  few  raiJeB  further  on.     The  j^iind  t*  in  eomv  pig 
miirehy,  niid  the  vegetation  moitt  rank  uml  hiKuriarit.     H 
Diowitl  through  i;rov«a  of  the  varieKat«d  Tliiatle,  at  Iwi&t 
feet  lii^h,  with  Icafli'M  stems  ferried  liW-  Pine  tre««. 
Lalonf^idr  l)iH:1it:  (Riimos  obtii.iifiihuji),  uImi  tcii  or  twcll 
ricet  hi^h,  like  hiisbeH,  with  iminent'e  broad  leavea.     It  wi 
in  the  midst  of  this  rich  but  wild  vegelLtion  that  we  roiind 
the  romainB  of  tlie  f^rcat  city,  dotu-d  over  no  nrea  morv 
tlian  four  miles  in  circumference,  the  spare  circumsvritinl 
in  former  days  by  the  town  walls.     The  riiinB  are  tbo§e  of 
tl)cntrcs,  n  vircu*,  a  niiit;nifieent  )fymiia;Biimt,  and  of  many 
oibi-r  piihtio  tdiliccs.     The  oite  of  the  temple  of  Diutia  hi^ 
been    determined,  nnd    is    beinf;    actively  cleared    by    &l^| 
^Vond  actiTi';  aa  the  rtipruitenlative  of  the  l)rili»'h  M uocuiifl 
Thi-Ke  ruimi  lOikve  the  impreraion  of  a  very  tnagnilicent  cil^| 
uftircat  wealth  and  of  a  larf^  population.  ^M 

The  plain  in  whieh  the  ruin*  uri;  situatetl  is  only  a  finP 
miU's  from  the  Mia,  and  in  ila  centre  flowo  a  xmall  river,  iho 
Cuyoter.  It  in  very  lovely  as  seen  from  a  hill  on  whi^H 
aomv  of  the  niins  are  found,  and  lool<«  as  Mniling  and  ^| 
iniiiHTiit  IK  any  Hiiu'I'^h  valley,  with  it«  river  wandoriifl 
through  tjraes  lieldB  in  siimi"-*- •*t<i.  Andyetitiit  i-nttrvM 
dwcrtodj  aiM*  >n  *  I  the  foot  of  man  htM 


THE  PLAIN  OF  SMYRNA — MALARIA.         57? 

never  touched  the  soil,  although  in  former  daya,  do  doubt, 
it  helped  to  Donrish  the  hundreds  of  thousands  who  in- 
habited Ephesus. 

The  cause  of  this  dssertion  is  the  deadly  malaria  that 
reigns  in  this  region.  All  tiie  way  from  Smyrna,  a  rich 
flourishing;  town  of  150,000  inhabitants,  we  had  passed 
through  tens  of  thousands  of  acres  of  fertile  land,  capable, 
with  labour  and  irrigation,  of  producing  anything — and 
yet  a  desert.  The  principal  cause,  I  was  told,  here  too  is 
the  malaria  fever,  which  strikes  down  nearly  all  who  culti- 
vate the  soil.  Dr.  McCraith,  the  well  known  English  phy- 
sician at  Smyrna,  told  me  that  no  one  ever  slept  at  Epbeeus 
without  getting  fever,  and  that  two  years  ago  50,000  of 
the  native  inhabitants  of  Aidin  and  of  the  Fig  districts 
were  lying  ill,  incapable  of  work,  at  the  time  of  the  Fig 
harvest  in  antumn.  The  crop  could  not  be  gathered  for 
wont  of  hands,  and  they  had  to  send  for  help  to  Smyrna, 
and  to  offer  half  the  crop  to  those  who  would  come  and 
assist  them  to  gather  it.  The  probable  cause  of  the  exces- 
sive unhenlthiness  of  the  Ephesus  plain  is  the  difficulty  its 
river,  the  Cayster,  finds  in  discharging  its  waters  into  the 
Mediterranean,  and  their  consequent  overflow  of  the  entire 
countrynear  theiroutlet.  The  pestilenceof  malaria  extends 
to  all  the  low  valleys  of  this  region.  I  met  at  Smyrna  an 
English  merchant,  or  landowner,  who  has  been  for  many 
years  the  proprietur  of  a  proiiperous  liquorice  factory  in  a 
valley  a  few  miles  from  Aidin.  The  liquorice  plant  grows 
wild  in  these  mountain  and  valleys,  and  can  be  had  for  the 
gathering.  The  extract  from  tlic  root  is  extensively  in 
demand,  especially  in  Spain,  for  the  manufacture  and  flavour- 
ing of  tobacco.  Malaria  fever  had  been  bis  great  enemy, 
often  dibabling  half  his  workpeople  at  a  time;  with  all 
his  precautions,  he  had  repeatedly  been  ill  himself,  and 
obliged  to  take  refuge  in  England.  He  invited  me  to  pay 
him  a  visit,  and  I  much  regretted  I  had  not  time  to  do  so. 
Here,  a'^ain,  was  an  illusti'ation  of  the  adventurous  spirit 
of  our  countrymen,  who  penetrate  and  have  penetrated 
everywhere,  except  in  Sardinia,  where  I  did  not  find  one. 

After  spending  four  hours  in  the  saddle,  scanning  this 
interesting  spot,  we  returned  to  the  station,  where  a  very 

p  p  2 


580  ASIA  HINOK. 

good  dinner  had  been  prepared  Tor  as.  We  partook  thereof 
witli  great  pleasure  in  the  open  air,  and  then  ae^in  entered 
our  train  at  four,  arriving  at  Smyrna  bysix.  The  nextday 
I  departed  to  continue  my  journey  to  Constantinople,  witji 
the  conviction  that  I  had  nol  discuvered  another  sanitarium 
for  winter — that  Smyrna  ia  all  very  well  for  business,  but 
is  not  calculated  to  afford  invalids  a  winter  retreat  and 
asylum.  This  verdict  may  probably  be  applied  to  the  whole 
ooaEt  of  Asia  Minor. 

Ab  far  as  cun  be  prejudged  from  the  data  afforded  by 
physical  geography,  the  Gulf  and  Bay  of  Smyrna  munt  he 
fair  epecimens — indeed,  rather  favourable  specimenB— of  the 
climate  of  Asia  Minor  in  gieneral.  Asia  Minor  is  a  moun- 
tainous country,  exposed  to  very  cold  winds  from  all 
northern  regions — from  the  Caucasian  mountains  to  the 
north-eust;  from  the  cold  Black  Sea,  into  which  so  many 
frozen  rivers  pour  their  waters,  to  the  north;  from  the 
Balkan  mountains  and  the  snow  and  frost-clad  plains  of 
Bulgaria  and  Wallachia  to  the  north-west.  No  doubt,  in 
this  latitude,  at  the  ha^  of  sheltering  mountains  running 
east  and  west,  especially  near  the  sea,  there  are  nooks, 
valleys,  undercliffs  warmed  by  the  sun;  but  they  must  be 
exceptions  to  the  general  tenour  of  winter  temperatures. 

Even  in  Palestine,  which  lies  much  more  to  the  south, 
between  latitude  31°  and  35°,  the  weather  is  often  very  cold 
and  severe  in  winter,  although  Palestine  is  sheltered  from 
the  norlh  by  the  entire  mass  of  Asia  Minor  and  of  its 
mruntains.  Not  only  is  there  every  year  frost  and  snow  in 
Jauuiiiy  in  the  mountain  regions  of  Lebanon,  blocking  up 
the  roads  and  interrupting  communications,  but  even  in  the 
plains  and  on  the  shore  north  polar  winds  bring  cold  and  rain. 
The  journey  from  Beyrout  to  Jerusalem  and  to  Damascus 
is  by  no  means  always  a  pleasant  journey  in  January  and 
in  February,  owing  to  the  presence  of  cold  and  wet  brought 
by  the  north  wiuds. 


PART    IV. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THE    ITALIAN     LAKES. 

JAKES   ISBO COMO — LUOiHO MIGOIOHK — THE  BIMPLOS  PASS 

lUZ  SCOTCH  LOCHiB— LOCH  iWK LOCH  HASEB. 

"  I  love  to  Bail  nlong  the  Larian  tale 
Under  the  abore— tho'  not,  where'er  he  dwelt, 
To  viait  Pliny  ....  So  I  sit  still. 
And  let  the  boatman  shift  bis  little  sail, 
His  sail  so  forked  and  swallow  like. 
Well  pleased  with  all  that  cornea.     The  morning  air 
FlavB  on  iny  cheek  how  gentlj,  flinging  round 
A  silvery  gleam " — Boobbs'  Italy. 

Every  year,  aa  spring  approaches,  the  Mentone  com- 
nmaity  begins  to  f'urin  plans  for  the  return  home,  and  I 
am  always  implored  by  friends  and  patients  to  sanction 
their  travelling  hy  way  of  the  Italian  lakes  and  Switzer- 
land. The  desire  is  very  natural ;  there  is  such  a  poetical 
halo  about  these  lakes,  such  sublime  grandeur  in  the  great 
Alpine  passes,  that  it  is  quite  distressing  to  be  so  near  and 
not  ta  see  them,  especially  when  ihey  can  be  brought,  with 
ease,  into  the  home  journey. 

My  objections  to  this  route  were  frequently  met  by  the 
inquiry  whether  I  had  myself  parsed  the  Swiss  rnountaioa 
in  spring,  and  as  I  was  obliged  to  confess  I  had  not,  1  was 
oi'ten  thought  to  cxagiierate  the  danger.  I  therefore 
determined,  in  April,  1S64,  being  qutie  conviilescent,  to 
adopt  this  route  on  the  return  journey  to  England,  and  to 
judge  lot  myself.  I  secured  some  ^reeable  companions, 
and  was  thus  independent  of  "  travelling  acquaintances." 

On  the  Sth  of  April,  when  we  lett  Mentone,  summer 
had  thoroughly  commenced  on  the  Biviem.     The  spring 


582 


TB£  ttAUAS   LAKES. 


flowen  ven  paasing  »w»y,  ftnd  those  of  oar  Jnit*  badi 

their  npp^nnince;  the  dsya  were  warm  and  cloodlf 

tbo  nights  eool  simI  pl«a8ftDt,  the  thcnnometer  never  ile- 

tcendin^  Wlovr  r»0°.     Tb«    morintain    nidu*    were  dtitlinl 

with  venture,  and  perfumwl  with  wild  Thytae, 

nnd  MuuiitaiD  Lavender,  the  Willows  and  PoplAra  wcrt ; 

full  (lAia^^. 

Ou  IcHviDg  Genoa  and  pnwing  the  protection  of 
Apennine  cltain,  April  1  Ith,  a  |^at  change  was  oIimm 
Altboa^  t))D  Bun  wsa  bri'^ht  and  the  weather  Gue,  wiot 

•till  reigned   in  the  plnins  of  Lomhardv,  the  1m»   vrt 

leaflcn,  thd  hedge*  utid  ^mund  bare.  Indfod,  tijv  apriog 
woa  not  more  advanced  tlian  it  usually  is  lu  EugUud  i 
the  Mmc  perioil,  owing,  evidently,  to  want  of  prutecti< 
from  the  north  winds.  The  high  Swin  ciountai 
aithoutfh  ninninj;  due  east  and  weet,  only  protect  the 
rctfiona  immediately  at  their  base;  the  north  wiuds  pu 
over  these  favoured  opoU  to  descend  iu  full  force  oa  ih 
pIiiiiiK  beyond. 

Nfithiiifj  e»ii  be  more  dri-nry  and  more  monotonous  than 
the  li-rtile  plains  Wtween  tienoa  and  Turin,  onoe  tl>e  rail- 
rood  enKT^es  from  Uie  Apennines,  nt  this  time  of  tlie  ye 
nor  was  the  region  between  Turin  mid  Milan  more  favouf 
llienc  pliiins  nrtt  perfrelly  Hut,  nnd  are  merely  divided 
setfuicfiitH  by  dilclii'ii  or  small  ini;jation  eaoab,  bordered 
with  pollnrd  Willows  or  Pojilare,  still  quite  devoid  Drfuliu 
Alniii,'    llio    riiilivuy,     fiom    Turin     to     Mtlun     they 

IiriiK^jwIlv  oultiviited  with  Kice,  and  Uie  a^^oultai 
abdura  ol  eprinit  were  in  lull  operation,  part  of  the  ootwt 
beiu^  Isiil  uixlei'  wutf-r  by  iirtiRcial  Jrn<^tion.     The  pr 

CONS  appears  to  l>e,  in  March  or  April,  Kntly  to  plough  tl 

fallow  land,  and  then  lo  divide  it  into  fields  of  from  ten  to 
twenty  acres  by  banks  of  mould  or  elay  one  foot  hi|>t 
Water  i»  afterwards  lot  in,  *0  as  to  tliorMiijhly  Hilur 
ilie  KTOund ;  it  is  then  drawn  otr,  the  rioe  sown, 
llie  lielU  ajjain  covered  wiMi  water  to  the  depth  of  t« 
or  ibnw  iiiebeH.  This  wator  is  constantly  renewed,  m>  as 
to  keep  it  at  the  above  Itet^t,  until  Die  grain  is  formiKl. 
It  ia  then  allowed  to  {{rsdually  sink  into  the  ground  and 
the  crop  ripens  willioul  further    irngatiou.     The   water 


MILAN  BNSLAVXD  AND  FREE.  583 

mast  be  raiaed  by  artificial  meana,  for  the  irrigation  canals 
are,  iu  most  inst^QceB,  cooBiderably  below  tbe  level  of  tho 
fie  Ida 

The  country  itself  appeared  very  prosperous;  there  was 
building  going  on  in  every  village  or  town  we  pasaed 
throngb,  and  throngs  of  well-dressed,  well-fed  people,  of 
alt  rank?,  got  in  and  out  of  the  trains  wherever  we  titopped. 
A  little  before  we  reached  Milan  we  came  to  the  station  of 
Magenta,  a  name  henceforth  sacred  in  Italian  history.  It 
was  here  that  was  fought,  between  the  French  and  Italians 
and  the  Austriaus,  the  great  battle,  the  gain  of  which  may 
be  said  lo  have  established  Italiio  independence.  It  was 
difficult  to  believe  that  tliis  calm  and  tranquil  little  village, 
hud  been,  only  a  few  years  before,  the  scene  of  one  of  the 
greatest  battles  of  the  century, — tliat  the  very  station  we 
were  in,  situated  in  the  thick  of  the  light,  was  taken  and 
reUiken  half  a  dozen  times,  and  that  tens  of  thousands 
stained  with  their  blood  the  verdant  fields  arouml.  Near 
the  stution  is  seen  a  monumental  pyramid,  erected  by  the 
Italian  government  to  the  memory  of  the  brave  men  who 
lell  in  the  battle. 

I  experienced  great  pleasure  in  again  seeing  Milan  in  its 
new  position — as  one  ol'  the  chief  cities  of  a  free  and  inde- 
pendent state,  of  "Italia  Unit^."  I  had  several  times  visited 
this  city  in  the  epoch  of  Austrian  rule,  and  always  mourned 
over  its  dejected,  enslaved  appearance.  In  those  days  large 
bodies  of  liiir-haired  Austrians,  in  their  white  uniforms, 
neenied  to  occupy  it  as  a  foreign  army  would  occupy  a  city 
alter  a  siege.  They  were  everywhere — at  the  gates,  iu  the 
streets,  in  the  public  squares,  m  the  cafes,  iu  the  magnifi- 
cent cathedral,  in  the  pit  of  the  theatre;  they  seemed  to 
l>e  lords  and  masters,  and  tv>  know  it,  whilst  the  poor 
Italians  ap|)eared  humbled  and  dispirited.  Often  I  could 
observe  a  scowl  of  hatred  Hash  over  their  fiicu  as  their 
northern  conquerors  swagjrered  past,  their  sworda  clanking 
on  the  pavement.  I  cunnot  understand  any  one  being 
twenty-lour  hours  at  Milan  or  at  Venice,  in  those  days, 
without  feeling  an  ardent  sympathy  for  the  oppressed 
Italians, — an  ardent  desire  to  see  their  northern  masters 
obliged  to  recrosa  tbe  Alps. 


&84 


THE  n  ALIAS  LAKCU. 


Now  tb«  iitat«  of  IhiDgs  M  iiltogctberdifiWrat;  tbcnsn 
DO  more  forvign  aoldwn  to  lie  mcr,  anil  the  warrinn 
who  uv  viutiltf  wear  Xhe  iiationul  uaifonn.  The  streeU  mtt 
\iitouKnl  witli  Impfiy,  oonteiitM]  Taces,  and  thL-  cvideocM 
of  iniliviiluul  i>nn|>orily,  and  of  active  be^ltby  mutiii-ipsl  lib. 
are  nM.-t  » itii  ijii  i-vitry  nitlv.  Tlw  tiity  w  Iwiiig  (]uit«  trao^ 
forme  I ;  new  alreela  of  fine  ho«ua  aw  beioK  butll  in  Um 
■ulitiriM,  piililtc  b«il(Iin^  we  heinfr  reDovatod,  and  |ilans  an 
bving  Riatural,  which,  if  «fi«cluiil]y  cnrricd  out,  a»  iin  doubl 
tUry  will  \>K,  inuot  make  MiUii  n  truly  »]>lcmlid  oitjr. 
Ainuiii;  tiinMiiitiiie  for  cUrariuft  tlie  vicinity  of  the  ffTvid 
cutiinlnil  ijfa  hoot  of  inrerinr  dwelliii(^.  and  lor  tncUnam 
niiiiv  ijf  finit-i:liLut  niiinKiDii",  in  iinitoii  with  thin  tHiUt 
■trnctufc,  uiiu  uf  lU<<  liui-nt  ■|H.'ciini-iu  of  Uothic  ardiitc^ttm 
ill  lite  wufld.  Thv  cathedral  i»  indeed  worlhy  of  evetpr 
trlfott  Iwin^  madv  W  hrin;;  it«  proportion*  into  vi«w ;  it  u 
■nvxiiroMiliiy  nuijnlic,  both  intvruuily  nud  txteriud)}', 
wortnv  of  11  great  aiKl  free  lulii^ii,  and  deeervin)^  of  a 
8|ieviiil  visit  to  It«ly. 

On  liM>kii)|;  roiiiiil  and  witnessing  three  cvidonoH  of 
roiiL'wtsI  tiutiuniU  iil'i-,  I  could  not  but  rt-grct  that  the  poet, 
8aiiiiM-l  KuijurH,  dill  uuL  live  to  aee  the  fitllilinent  uf  his 
•iu;:ular  prupiieoy  containod  in  the  oohio  tinve,  n-ptudueed 
ut  Uiu  houd  of  ttiu  «i;|{htti  cha|tt«r,  |Mgc  iOT,  lli»  hi:art 
would  indeed  liuvc  wurmi;'!  to  tee  the  oountry  which 
he  loved  with  such  dei-i)  and  Hnc-cre  alTvitioD  rise  from 
"  llie  diikl,"  aliJiIco  oir  ilfl  diiiin,  drive  aivuy  the  euf^e 
"coweiin^  ovt<r  hid  jirey,"  ui>d,  for  "ihe  tliinl  timr,"  rtt< 
iiMuiiic  it*  nirili  iiiiiuni;  natiuns.  Moat  truly  and  piophe 
rally  (lid  lie  Day,  "  AKU  aiiAi.T  aoms." 

'Ihe  weiillior  ivon  beautiful  while  we  weru  at.  Mdnn, 
we  wvn  told  thiiL  the  liivourable  chun;;e  had  been  qiiile 
reuunt,  iind  lluil  ii  few  tliiyti  buluiu  there  hml  Wen  u  fall  of 
«aow,  Alt^r  devuling  n  day  tii  Uio  city,  its  tsUa-drul  und 
the  iinpnivcnietile,  wif  ngu\i\  tiioU  tlie  rail,  the  line  from 
Jtliliin  t/i  Venice,  hound  for  Jjikc  I§co.  At  PalaZKolo,  the 
■eeond  Hlatioii  hoyond  IIorj;.iHui,  wv  :ill^hU(].  took  a  local 
oonvvyiinet',  and  Wrrv  hood  at  the  "  AUx^r^^o  del  Lk.-onv,'* 
Imm,  Uio  diiilunc'O  hein^  aUml.  cUvi-ii  inilvii. 

The  Italian  lakuM — Uurdu,  Ucu,  Coino,  Lugano,  Mag- 


1 


r 


THE  OEOUXIV  OP  THE  ITALIAN   LAKES.     385 


fpore,  and  Ort*— occupy  4lcep  baalns  or  depreBsiona  at 
the  soutliern  base  of  t1i«  Alps,  as  tlio  8ivi««  liiko 
ocvnpy  eimilur  tleprcssione  at  Ihc  Tool  of  tli«  AI[>d  to  the 
nurtb.  Th«  priiiui])!)!  dilTcrcncu  U  tliul  the  eoutb  side 
ol'  the  AI|)N  in  niuc-h  mnrc  prcoipitnus  thno  Ibv  O'lrlb, 
80  that  tbe  Italian  lakea  lie  oil  a  lino,  inimL-ilink'ly  at  thtiir  ' 
base,  wheme  the  Swiss  lakes  arc  at  th<-  extremity  ot 
valleya,  which  extend  some  distuncc  from  ibe  grtal  moun- 
tains. In  bulh  cu-'ieit  Vut#e  Inlti-a  are  lormed  by  riwra 
that  descend  south  and  north  from  thv  t now  iind  glaci«r- 
voverod  mountuins,  and  I'rotn  nil  of  tlivin  );reat  riven 
depart,  earryiiig  away  tliL'ir  ovcrllow.  Acoordin^  to  the 
moit  recent  ifenlogioal  views,  these  lakes,  ev«n  where  on« 
or  two  thousand  feet  deep,  have  been  suwpiHl  out,  in 
furnier  gt'oloi^iciil  epochs,  by  gUdcre  descend  in^r  uloiijf  the 
ruUeya  at  the  termirialiou  of  whieh  they  lie. 

Tlio  longitudinal  valleys,  lyiu^  due  north  and  south, 
in  which  tbc  Italian  lakes  urc  situnted,  are  not  only  pni- 
t«Gted  I'rnm  titt:  iiorlb  by  the  bi-;hor  .4tps,  but  also  from 
the  nortli-cnst  by  deacending  spur*  that  occupy  their 
catitern  •horex,  aiid  from  the  north-west  by  the  Alps  of 
Suvoy,  which  tjike  a  xoulh -westerly  eouiw;. 

This  peculiar  pratecliun  from  all  north  wind*  gives 
them  B  totally  dilTerent  elimutc  to  that  oi'  the  plains  of 
Piedmont  and  Lombardy,  which  we  had  just  lell.  lb 
seemed  aa  il'wc  had  repiic^cd  the  Apcnniiien,  and  bad  once 
more  reached  the  Kiviera  and  summer.  For  aome  milee 
before  we  Arrived  at  ls<)o  the  vegetation  waa  aj^ain  that 
of  June,  and  tliu  i^rdene  were  full  of  early  summer  tlowcis; 
the  Hazel,  the  Willow,  the  FopWr  were  in  full  luliii>^e,  ihe 
Fi^  trees  were  in  leaf,  and  thv  Vines  ba^l  uiude  sbuoU 
Heveral  feet  lon){.  . 

Lake  Isuo  is  a  small,  picturesque  lake,  I'ut  little  frc- 
iiucntcd  m  compared  with  its  larger  ncigbbonn,  Umrdji, 
Como,  and  Muggiore.  U  is  about  fourteen  miles  lon^, 
and  Imni  two  to  three  broad,  and  lica  immediately  at  Uiu 
toot  of  the  Alps,  to  the  north-east  of  the  town  of  IJergauw^^ 
and  to  the  weal  of  Gtirda,  the  largest  of  the  Italian  bikvo. 

The  town  of  Iseo  is  a  mero  large  Italian  vilk;^  on  the 
borden  of  tliu  bke,  and  the  "  .\lbi.'r>^  del  L:!oqo"  m  a  very 


&8« 


THE  ITALIAN  LAER8. 


onpretendinic  estaUisbm«iit.  Th«  mome,  however,  which 
iro  tol«nibly  vtean  and  comrortahlv,  irnnu'illatvly  uv<.Tlook 
tlio  liiko,  thp  »ccn«rjr  of  whioli,  un  viewi-d  from  llio  inn,  or, 
indeed,  from  any  point,  in  extiuisilely  bcautil'ul.  f'Vnti 
tlie  shores  rise,  motv  or  le'^  aumptly,  monntaiiio  Hvvtet 
t]iou»aii<l  fcvt  l)>(c'^i  whici),  ut  tlic  norUHini  cxtrL-n)it]^ 
npidly  merge  into  tl)«  «now-^-liul  iiumniits  of  the  lii^li 
Al|)B.  Ttiia  lake,  indtiinl,  Htr(i<-k  me  ss  peculiarly  lovely, 
qmte  as  mueli  so  as  ito  heller-knotrn  cotopaiiioiie ;  it  is 
pcrfwlly  emlioMnncd  in  miHintain»,  which  in  one  re;ria~ 
riixr  ul]  l>iit  iilirtiptly  rmtn  tbt*  dw]>  waters,  wliibt  in  aiiolbl 
they  slope  moi-e  gnAuaWy,  presentiiig  on  their  tiiles  liixu* 
riant  proves,  nmiling  vineyards,  verdant  jia»tanigv,  «e 
DiimerouR  vi)liig«ii. 

ThtM  viUu;;eB — white,  clean,  nnd  pioture«()BO  at 
dutaiHW,  n-lialever  tJiey  may  W  when  setn  eliwi'ly^-dot 
the  bill-aide  at  every  mile  or  lialf-mili',  wbrn-vi-r  tlm  Hlop« 
is  not  tuu  BiYat  to  prevent  cultivntioii.  Kvideiitly  th« 
■oiithcrn  Mtin  enabled  their  inbabitanla  to  extmut  the 
element*  o(  Wfe — corn,  wine,  nitd  oil — from  the  very 
iUoir.  Tlius,  the  mountains,  n-liicU  in  mir  climata  won 
onlv  Kiipport  a  few  vheep  and  eutlle,  in  this  favouivcl  re^i 
maintuin  a  teeming  (lopulation.  It  is  the  same  at  all 
Ibe  Italian  UUi'h;  wlierever  the  moniitiiin  i#  not 
p«n<li«nlar,  there  are  villa;*e«  on  the  nnuiii  lain -side, 
tlu'ir  whili'-liirr«tvii  i"hiirtln.>»«,  every  hnti'-niile.  There  thi 
lie,  biiekin;;  in  the  uun  tis  it  were,  nearly  all  the  ye 
round,  little  knowiiii;  the  privation*  and  harilithi[)«t  tt 
are  endured  by  their  t'llluur-mnuntaineera,  livin;;  on  HA 
north  side  of  the  motintaius  that  limit  the  horizon,  only  m 
few  milen  distant. 

The  charm  of  Liikc  Ihw,  in  my  eye»,  co»ai«ta  in  its  not 
liein^  Biieh  a  »vm  of  watem  as  the  lari^r  lakes,  <fnnla  and 
Mn(f);ii>re.  It  rccembles  one  end  of  Lake  Como,  and  liiuii  tho 
(oinit  kind  of  l>eauty,  that  of  a  line  exiMiiKe  of  U'uliir,  the 
(>ppo«iu>  fbiina  of  wbioh  aiv  easily  diiteeniih)^,  although 
reaehiii^  mirth  and  sontb  as  far  as  the  eye  can  {lenvtrale. 
Tbcii  there  it>  a  peeiiliar  fat'cinHti<in  alfout  theeu  eontlierii 
but  yet  Alpine  waten  ;  Uie  «ky  iw  pure  and  blue  in  liiui 
wvBtber,  such  aa  we  had  all  but  invariably,  and  Ibe  nir  m 


LAKE  IflEO — AN  ISLAND.  587 

freeli  and  clear,  much  more  bo  than  it  is  with  as  on  out 
finest  summer  days.  Thus  all  ohjecta  in  nature  stand  oat 
distinctly  on  the  horizon,  and  the  most  distant  mauntains 
are  seen  with  the  naked  eye  almost  as  well  as  with  a 
telescope. 

The  scene  was  truly  enchanting  as  we  sat  on  a  small 
terrace  in  front  of  our  inn,  against  which  the  tiny  wavelets 
broke  with  a  gentle  rippling  soand.  Before  us  was  the 
clear  lake,  etndded  with  little  fishing-hoats  and  with  large 
market  and  ferry-boats  crossing  from  Pretore,  on  tlie  oppo- 
site side.  Beyond  the  lake  was  the  mountain,  its  Hanks 
dotted  with  white  villages,  whilst  between,  at  a  distance 
of  some  two  miles,  a  large  island  rose  boldly  a  couple  of 
hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  waters. 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  a  boat,  and  were  gently  rowed 
to  this  island.  On  landing  at  a  little  pier  we  found  our- 
selves in  the  midst  of  a  fishing  village,  one  of  the  prettiest 
and  most  picturesque  I  ever  saw ;  it  was  ihe  most  charm- 
ini;  combination  possible  of  the  Alpine,  fishing,  and  Italian 
village.  Ouaint  gabled  cottages,  picturesque  costumes, 
nets  hanging  to  dry  from  every  house,  black-eyed,  black- 
haired  maidens,  chubby,  rosy,  half-naked  children,  old 
wrinkled  women  with  their  distaffs,  like  the  Fates  of  the 
heathen  mythology,  and  fine  old  men  with  flowing  white 
locks,  the  Nestois  of  the  vitl^e.  We  were  evidently  a 
source  of  gi-eat  curiosity  to  them,  for  they  all  came  out  of 
their  bouses,  and  stood  in  a  line  looking  at  us;  the  village 
had  only  one  row  of  houses  along  the  shore  of  the  lake. 
Young  maidens  smiled  and  laughed  and  smiled  again,  the 
ciders  looked  demure  but  inquisitive,  whilst  the  i:hildren, 
as  usual,  followed  in  a  group.  They  were  clearly  desirous 
to  get  a  good  view  of  the  strangers,  whose  advent  produced 
quite  a  sensation. 

At  the  end  of  the  village  we  found  rich  undulating 
meadows  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  the  northern  end  of 
the  island.  The  grass  was  knee  deep,  and  enamelled  with 
inimmcrable  flowers — Primroses,  Violets,  Heputicas,  But- 
tercup!!, and  a  hundred  others.  The  Mulberry  trees  were 
in  leaf,  aud  the  Vines  trailing  from  tree  to  tree  were 
begmning  to  he  covered  with  ibiiage,  and  to  assume  a 


5BB 


THE  ITALIAN  I.AKK& 


grace  whidi  they  bave  not  when  h-ailvm.  We  were  90TT7 
lu  (io]>uH,  hot  the  afteTtiuuii  wim  011  ihe  wime,  and  wo 
wer«  ubIigL-d  to  leave  the  "  lonely  isle"  in  the  midal  of 
Lake  law. 

We  §ijon  got  into  the  way  of  loun<;in^  on  thu  unlfiv, 
thnn  which  nothing  can  Ixi  more  di'lightrtil,  uxfwciall^ 
whi^n  Kurraitmlvd  by  ^nind  and  heaDtil'm  scenery.  iL  is 
wrlniwly  tlic  height  of  idle  enjoyment  to  sit  or  lie  oom- 
rortabty  iu  «  boat,  fiteotly  impclli-d  over  the  water  in  iJiil 
midst  of  n  mngiuiicent  InndwuiK'  ilhiminated  by 
glory  of  ihe  coutlieni  kuh.  Nor  cjui  anything  bo  devlid 
mare  conducive  to  ht-ullh  for  an  invalid ;  it  is  exora 
witbout  riili'^io,and  enjoyment  willioul  exertion,  ooinI>in< 
with  i>ure  air  and  ituiiHliine.  Time  glides  away  imper- 
cuptibly,  i?ti]>ecially  if  tbe  excoreion  is  shared  with  two 
or  three  u;tTecab{e  oonipaniono,  home  a  readied  with  » 
good  n]i|ii'lite,  and  a  sound  nisht'c  rwt  jj'^neraUy  follows. 

Having  ex])lor(id  the  purl  of  the  lake  nejr  Iwjo,  we 
determined  to  miike  an  escurMou  to  Lavere,  a  town  at  the 
heat)  of  the  lake,  uinie  ten  mileo  distant,  and  started  after 
Weakfant  in  a  large  boat  rowed  l>y  two  men.  Uur  coutm 
was  pro»ncrou*,  imd  vm  were  cnti-anoed  witlt  the  in- 
L-rvasin^  lieauty  of  tlie  iihorus  of  the  lukc  and  of  tho 
mouiitiiinx  by  whieli  they  are  limited,  a*  we  approaeh 
ti>e  iip|KT  extivnuty.  On  niwndinii;  u  promontory,  _ 
/(■iind  ourselves  in  n  kind  of  aecundary  circular  Uke, 
uljotit  vigbt  milos  In  circuml'erer.ro,  at  the  liottora  of 
which  IK  lAtvere.  This  little  town  i«  known  in  English 
literature  as  having  bei^n  long  the  residence  of  Lady  -Miiry 
.M(inta<;u,  who  gives  a  very  glowinj*  description  of  it  in 
her  eiiriv-spondence ;  it  in  prettily  situated  and  clean,  but 
not  utberwise  remurkable.  We  were  fhown  to  ati  inn, 
ihe  "Ciinone  d'Oro,"  evidently  tlio  oountry  paluou  of 
some  .MiliinoM  nobleman  in  i'ornicr  days.  There  wajt  a 
large  interior  courtyard,  with  peristyle  and  arcades,  and 
grand  fmcoes  on  the  wall*  rep reticn ting  all  sorU  uf  t>i-o|ilo 
and  IhinK".  The  rooms  were  vast  iu  siae,  oruaniented 
with  liiill-eirueed  carvingH  and  gilding,  and  the  beds  won 
"wieli  bi-dsl"  what  they  oall  iu  northern  Italy  "  Ictli 
uwtrimoauili."      'VVe   miyht  cidl   tb«m   liiuiily    beds,   (q^ 


FtRHIKG    IN  LAKE  18R0. 


589 


^ 


they  nro  st  l«att  twclvo  (ckI  wide,  and  uro  oortnitilf  l*rgo 
enough  for  aa  entire  laniily,  lather,  mother,  and  children. 
They  arc  only  met  with  now  iu  very  old  inns,  in  out^oiV 
thd-wity  p1aov«  mucU  tw  Lovitre. 

In  my  youth  I  waa  an  enthusiastic  Inherman,  and  a 
little  of  the  old  feeling  still  remains,  eo  in  Icavin;;  for  the 
Italian  Takes  1  bad  put  a  couple  of  mhi  iu  my  port- 
niaut>-(iu,  int«nding  to  depopulate  their  waters.  I  hud 
MpeatcdJy  tried  ray  hand  sinoe  our  arrival  at  Iseo,  hut  all 
my  Scotch  lore  appeared  lost  on  it«  tinny  inhabitunts ;  I 
could  not  Rvt  u  ri»e  or  ■  bite.  U  will,  thcruforc,  bo  eiuily 
imagined  that  I  <.vu^<  much  ^i-atifi<-i)  to  liuO  that  there  wat 
lit  our  hostel  an  Knglish  gentleman  who  had  been  reeidiii|f' 
there  for  nearly  two  years,  solely  for  liahin;;  and  sliootin)*, 
]  at  onco  sunt  in  my  card,  iwkiug  lor  uu  interview  ;  this 
was  (grunted,  and  an  invitation  Ui  go  out  tinhin^  thv  next 
ni(>rnin<;  at  six  w;is  eii^rly  accepted.  1  was  punctual  to 
l\n!  appnintmenl,  and  we  apeDt  M^verul  huurn  toi^trlher. 

My  new  ac  jtinintanee  waa  liahing  for  u  wry  lurgv  kind 
of  litill  trontj  IVoin  t«n  to  twenty  pounds  iu  weiKht.  which 
inhabits  the  deep  wiit«r»  of  the  Itidian  lakes,  and  ffttve  m»- 
mtieh  int«nMting  information  revpooting  it  uod  liskiug  in 
general  in  this  part  of  tlte  world. 

These  monster  trout  have  been  knon'n  to  exist  fr^m 
time  immetnorial  by  the  local  fuliermet),  but  were  con- 
sidered to  be  all  but  tnattackable  until,  a  few  yearn  a;;(i, 
an  Knijli^h  genticmaii  tau>fht  the  fishermen  of  Lake  (Jarda 
how  to  catch  tfaem.  In  itummcr,  wlicn  they  are  npnwninjj, 
they  are  oocaalonally  seen  iu  vhullow  water«,  but  they 
then  rcfue«  to  take  any  kind  of  bait,  and  in  winter,  when 
tliey  are  disposed  to  feed,  they  live  in  the  deepest  waters 
of  these  laki^s,  which  arc  fnini  one  to  two  tliouHund  fcvl, 
deep.  The  depth  of  Lake  Iseo  is  nine  hundred,  tliat  of'' 
Oardu  one  thousand  nine  hundred  feet. 

yiy  Lovere  companion  wa.H  ttthini;  in  the  following, 
maimer: — The  Ijoat,  a  flat- butt oined  one,  was  rowed  by 
two  men  ;  the  line,  of  stout  whipconl,  was  about  three 
hundred  yardi  in  length.  Four  hundred  feet  were  loaded 
nt  e%'et7  ten  feet,  the  terminal  lead  being  heavier  than  t)iu 
teat;  a  few  feet  from  the  bottom  was  a  aide  line,  about 


590 


Tint  ITALIAN   LAKES. 


twenty  Teel  loriif,  and  »imiW  ciilc  IJikmi  wtn  alinchei  it 
tlie  tint,  oecond,  and  tbird  hundred  fe«t.  Tluw; 
boiUtl  willi  n  tmall  fich  like  «  herrinSi  nbandant  in 
Lomban)  IhU-*,  iind  cuib-d  the  fnwh-wuter  hvrrii);;.  ' 
entire  liue  wna  cauttouttl}-  llirown  into  tiio  Inko,  nntil 
about  five  bundred  I'c^t  were  immerBed,  so  ttiat  tlic   fu 

l)uit  vntt  two  liuudrcd  fwt  bolow  the  snrfuoc,  iRe  hc      

three,  Lhc  tbird  Tour,  and  th«  foiirtb  five  liundret]   feet 
The   line   ttaell'  was   wutind   »n   a   lar^   wioch   or 
roetenod  to  a  small  frnmework,  about  two  feet  above 
fide  of  tlio  boat.     Once  the  linw  thrown  or«r,  the 
rowod  UM  gently  ubout. 

This  lime,  also,  our  efforts,  a1tlioup|h  dir«4t«(l  bj 
Kkilksl  liiind,  proved  indlcirtiia] ;  but  1  did  not  rr^^rct 
the  eurly  ri«in)t;,  for  Uic  iiioniing  air  vu»  jMiro  niid  Ireith, 
and  the  like  was  qnit^^  ea]m,  as  smooth  na  g\uti»,  uai 
inciEpremibly  lovely,  with  iu  frame  ofurand  Alpinv  mouo> 
tains.  There  were  other  Wats  out  on  the  some  ermn<l  a« 
our»olve«,  t^'ntly  fkiinmSng  the  mrfnoe  of  the  Inki'.  My 
companion  told  me  that  if  a  boat,  manned  like  ours,  cniig'  ' 
tvo,  tliTVre,  or  four  fi&h  in  a  wtrck'e  fisbini;.  it  was 
eiduro^I  vi-ry  >;ood  «port,  and  paid  the  fi«hvnn4-n. 
)iirt;i!  Iruut  are  mitcli  nought  alter  in  the  |;reat  citic 
Milan,  U«r|>anio,  Itrescia — Ibr  ceremonial  dinners,  and 
nl  the  rat«  of  tw«  or  three  francs  a  pound,  the  pric« 
to  the  Baherman  betn^  at  least  one  fruuo.  Thiis,  thrM 
fish,  an  an  avcrai>;«,  iu  the  week,  neit^hing  from  IbirLy 
forty  pouiidit,  wouhl  make  fiflei^n  or  twenty  francs  each 
the  two  Gaheimen,  moi-e  tbau  tlioy  could  get  in  niiit«r 
agricidlnral  lubonr.  My  coinpunion  bad  been  lishing 
winUT,  and  hud  marked  on  a  gnfT,  us  a  tally,  a  notch 
each  victim;  1  counted  fbrty-sevi-n.  When  he  did  nut  (it 
lie  L'mployed  bis  time  in  shooting;  wild  fowl  at  the  mout 
and  on  the  banks  of  the  nei-^hbouring  river.  He  was  tt 
only  En^linhniun  within  thirty  miles  round,  and  his  aol 
Uiry  Eporlin;^  existence  was  a  eoiiroe  of  }^Bt  surprise  ' 
the  Itabun  population;  he  wun  anutbvr  (ypo  of  the  rovif 
Enftlisbinau. 

In  winter  this  doop  ftishinif  can  be  caiTied  on  all 
but  in  th«  fine,  sunny  weatlier  of  early  spring  and  sumi 


FISHtNO  IN  SCOTCH  LOCHS.  591 

the  only  time  wben  there  is  a  chance  of  catching  fish  ia  the 
first  and  last  few  honre  of  daylight.  It  ia  tlie  same  with 
us,  there  is  nothing  whatever  to  be  done  in  the  tisliing  way 
on  a  fine,  warm,  sunny,  cloudless  uummer  day.  This  fact 
alone  renders  it  quite  useless  for  invalids  to  visit  the  Italian 
lakes  in  spring  or  summer  for  fishing  ;  to  have  any  chance 
whatever  of  success,  they  would  have  to  commence  opera" 
tions  by  four  or  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  to  stay 
out  until  dark  in  the  evening,  remaining  idle  all  day,  from 
a  A.u.  to  6  F.if.  Such  a  kind  of  life  is  only  fit  for  strong, 
healthy  men, 

Althouf^h  there  is  an  amazing  quantity  of  fish  in  these 
lakes,  the  fishermen  told  me  that  there  was  no  success  to 
be  expected  in  angling  in  April  and  May,  ns  the  fish  were 
spawning.  Later  in  the  season  fish  are  to  be  taken  with 
rod  and  line,  but  even  then  only  between  four  and  peven 
in  the  morning  and  six  and  eight  in  the  evening;  in 
winter  all  the  Ixrgo  fish  take  to  the  deep  waters. 

For  want  of  legitimate  sport,  when  on  Lake  Como,  we 
were  reduced  to  a  welt-known  poaching  manmuvre.  I 
attached  sixty  flies  to  a  line  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
long,  and  carried  it  along  the  surface  of  the  water  between 
two  boats.  In  this  way  we  managed  to  catch  a  certain 
number  of  fish,  averaging  from  half  a  pound  to  a  pound 
and  a  half  in  weight,  a  kind  of  chub.  They  rose  tolerably 
well,  and  I  was  told  that  a  month  later  they  would  take 
tlie  fly  still  more  eagerly.  Although  it  may  be  difficult  in 
summer  to  catch  fish  by  angling  in  the  Italian  lakes, 
owing  to  the  intensity  of  the  light  and  to  the  glare  of 
the  sun,  it  is  certain  that  they  must  be  teeming  with  the 
finny  tribe,  from  the  numerous  fishing  villages,  fishermen, 
fishing-boats,  and  fishing-nete  that  are  seen  on  the  shores. 

Lake  fishing  is  pursued  under  much  more  favourable 
conditions  in  Scotland.  The  cloudy  sky  and  occasional 
showers  which  are  the  rule  in  "ultima  Thule,"  even 
in  midsummer,  are  propitious  to  piscatorial  enterpriae. 
Moreover,  fishing  can  generally  be  undertaken  and  carried 
on  in  the  daytime,  between  breakfast  and  dinner,  without 
fear  of  the  fish  being  driven  to  the  bottom  of  the  lochs  by 
the  glare  of  the  sun.    The  plan  I  generally  adopt  in  Scot- 


592 


THE  ITAI-IAS  tAKES. 


land  U  to  breakOost  at  faalf.put  eigfat  and  to  start  ai  nine. 
1  hiro  a  p'OiI-Eixed  bout,  rowed  by  two  nipn,  wlia  [<f*pare 
tlic  tackle  whiUt  1  jim  ut  broaklin»t,  sn  tliut  1  can  be$^a 
fiahJns  without  Ii<m  of  time  on  otartin^.  Tbe  boat  ii 
mwM  };enlly,  at  the  rat«  of  about  two  milra  an  bour,  and 
nt  about  II  iiiiiirtor  of  a  mJlu's  distaDcc  frum  the  ehorv, 
Dsaallv  tlie  best  fishiny;  ground.  I  troll  wilh  tbnm  rod*, 
one  with  a  spoon  and  lio3\'V  tackle  at  lb«  slero  of  tlie  litiat 
in  <lcq>  water  for  lar;:\>  fit^h,  the  other  two  rods  at  right 
an^cs  to  th<!  biiat,  riirtil  and  left,  nn<r  with  flic*  on  tlw 
surface,  the  other  w-ith  a  fresh  or  artificial  l-ait  a  few  fpct 
Wlow  thennrfacc.  The  reels  ate  plami  £o  as  to  be  dear 
of  all  o1i»lTu<:tioa,  in  <)nlt*r  ibnt  thi;  lino  mnj  run  frvdr  at 
the  slightest  toDcb.  All  thus  prejKired,  I  and  my  com- 
panions arriingc  oureelvcs  comfortatjlv  on  cloaks  aud  ni<r» 
at  the  bottom  of  the  tiout,  and  wbiit  with  oonvcnation,  Ifte 
observation  of  nature,  and  books,  the  time  paawa  I'lo.^tqintly 
and  rapidly. 

If  a  fish  strikes  one  of  the  lines  the  reel  sivcs  a  **  whirr," 
and  by  the  ntjiidity  with  which  the  line  runs  out  the  aize 
of  the  fish  may  be  pretty  well  jndyed.  Inslantir  Ihc  Ixwl 
is  thrown  down,  the  rwl  is  snstebnl  op,  and  then  bEi^n* 
thp  tn(*  of  war,  often  ending  in  Ihu  uapturv  of  a  ml  and 
itilver  speckled  denizen  of  the  dee^t,  a  tine  looh  or  v* 
trout,  not  only  lovely  to  look  at,  Init  promtsinj''  an  ;i 
able  luldit ion  to  the  day's  dinner  or  to  the  next  mon  i 
bix-aklast.  In  a  eountrj'  where  mntton — Hnl-rate  moun- 
tain mutton  it  must  be  allowed — is  the  all  but  iuvariable 
fare,  for  Uicre  i*  little  eUc  to  he  obtained  in  out-ortbe-way 

f  laces  in  Scotland,  sneh  an  addition  is  most  accept-ible. 
n  some  of  the  larf;er  Scotch  lakes,  sucb  as  1jo«U  Awe, 
then-  is  a  large  trout,  calW  the  hall  trout,  or  SaJmo  ■"  ■ 
very  vimilar  to  the  larg;e  trout  uf  the  Ituliuu  bknit.     ^ 
Canght    by  the  spuon,  the  bait  it  lakes   mo^t  lendilv, 
afTonls  splendid  K)iort,  running  out  n  hundred  t-arxJ^  of  Itj 
at  the  first  utart,  and  taking  one  or  two  boars  tu  kill. 

At  one,  the  boat  is  stoppod  for  Inncb  at  »ome 
islet,  or  on  some  pictures<iuc  point  of  the  shore ;  t 
time  al>out  ei^bt  miles  ol    the  shore  bare  Uvn  le 
poMwl.     Half  an  hour  or  an  hour  are  »i>eiit,  lying  { 


FISHINa  IN  SCOTCH  LOCHS.  593 

Bwe<!t  heather,  eating  and  chatting,  or  exploring  the  rocks 
and  woodland.  These  wild  spots  on  the  Scotch  lochs,  far 
away  from  the  haunts  of  man,  are  most  fascinating  in  July 
and  August.  The  grass  is  enamelled  with  flowers.  Ferns 
grow  out  of  every  stony  crevice,  and  thick  green  velvety 
Moss  clothes  the  north  side  of  the  trunks  of  trees,  covers 
stones  near  the  beach,  at  the  fool  of  the  mountains,  and 
on  rocky  mountains'  sides,  wherever  water  is  trickling 
down.  At  the  margin  of  the  lake,  in  low  places,  are  hosta 
of  bog  plants,  and  amongst  them  the  pretty  Grass  of  Par- 
nassus, with  its  delicate  cream-coloured  flowers;  here  they 
can  be  gathered  and  examined  without  fear  of  "  malaria," 
The  boatmen  ait  a  little  apart,  eat  their  oatcakes  and  drink 
the  mountain  dew  dealt  out  to  them — a  never-tO'  be- 
omitted  ceremony  on  these  occasions.  Thus  refreshed 
and  renovated,  the  boat  is  regained,  and  if  the  loch  is  a 
narrow  one,  like  Louh  Awe,  it  is  crossed,  the  rods  and 
tackle  carefully  visited,  the  flies  or  bait  changed  if  neces- 
sary, and  the  progress  homewards  commenced  in  the  same 
way  as  in  the  morning. 

If  the  tish  "  rise,"  the  three  rods  give  plenty  of  occupa- 
tion, and  there  is  very  little  time  for  reading,  or  even  lor 
conversation,  beyond  the  expression  of  fear,  hope,  anxiety, 
pleasure,  delight  or  vexation,  according  as  the  tinny  prize 
is  secured  or  lost.  It'  not,  the  boat  glides  smoothly  on, 
BufBciently  near  the  shore  for  every  tree,  every  shrub, 
every  heron  standing  quietly  in  the  water  watching  for 
its  prey,  to  he  distinctly  seen.  The  outline  of  the  moun- 
tiiins,  purple  with  heather  in  full  blossom,  the  mists  that 
gatiier  along  their  sides,  the  clouds  that  form,  break,  and 
Tc-t'orm  in  the  sky — all  are  tlie  objects  of  attention,  often 
the  subject  of  remark.  Occasionally  a  "  Scotch  mist " 
descends  and  breaks  overhead  as  a  brisk  shower.  For 
this  we  are  quite  prepared,  and  huddle  together  under 
cloaks  and  umbrellas,  half-vexed,  half-pleased,  for  the  flsh 
rise  better  after  rain.  The  shower  over,  we  emerge  from 
under  cover,  like  birds  from  under  the  foliage  of  an  oak 
tree,  and  the  wraps  are  dried  in  the  sun,  which  geuemlly 
ebines  forth  after  the  rain.  If  a  good-sized  6sh  takes 
the  bait  whilst  it  is  raining  fust,  there  is  a  regular  oom- 


594 


THE  ITAUAM  LAKES. 


mntinn.     It  will  not  do  to  Inee  him,  and  yet  the  nrc 
0|ii!mti«»9  can  ptilj-  be  cmrietl  mi  l>j-  dojii^iui;  nil  sheit 
and  disturtiinir  llio  »nugn«ss  of  the  lM(l-wcnthi>r  arTsngv- 
menle,  at  which  th«  lames  ail-but  invariably  c<>nk)>li>in. 

Tliiri<p(  do  not  ain-ays  go  on  emootlily  ;  IJlUe  ucdtli'nts 
nnd  HdvcnturCM  nenir,  pcrhapx  rntlicr  ditia^revable  at  th« 
time,  bill  a  Knuref  of  mcrrinii-nl  afYorwanis.  A  ctomi  and 
adverse  wind  may  rise  when  the  boat  is  miles  from  home; 
th«  wiiv'cs  may  run  so  hi(>h.  and  the  wind  lie  su  Htriiii<;, 
«veii  on  thesu  lli^libind  louhtt,  that  the  vi^roiis  rowt-r* 
prove  all  but  punericM  tu  urj^e  on  the  boat.  Wu  buvu 
then  to  land,  rortunat<i  it  we  can  lind  a  road,  a  farmliotisF, 
tmi  n  cart  with  some  Ktratr  at  thu  bottom,  in  which  to 
make  our  way  h«m«.  SoinctimcM  there  io  no  n.-{>ular  roftd, 
no  house,  and  the  mar(;iri  oftiie  lake  han  to  hu  Hkirted  as 
bcvt  possible.  On  one  occasion,  on  landing;  for  tht!  mi-ldiiv 
rwt,  I  fell  risiht  iiiti>  the  loch  up  to  the  nwk,  but  (orln- 
naloly  there  wer«  some  chan'^oiil-bnriK^r*  near,  with  a  rode 
(cnt.  1  bud  to  cn«oance  myself  therein,  amidst  the  iuii^rhtvr 
of  my  companions,  whiixt  my  clothes  were  dried,  rucfiving 
no  commv>cnition  from  any  one.  Only  three  or  four  eiin 
manii<^  comforliibly  in  ono  bout,  but  two  or  thrau  boatit 
can  join,  nlurt  at  half  an  hour's  interval,  mmtin)^  nt  the 
same  fttaeo  for  the  midday  rest. 

After  a  day  thus  jjusscd  on  the  waters  it  w  rcry  sehlom 
that  a  ;>ood  appelitc  is  not  hroii);ht  biick,  unil  tliat  a  ^wd 
nicrhtV  re«t  in  uol  iiuIiHi-<|ne»tly  obtained.  There  has  l>oen 
no  fatiuue,  no  excitement,  and  yet  the  entire  day  has  boen 
]>a«sed  in  iho  open  air,  in  cominiinion  ivilh  an  ever-beaulifu) 
nature.  -My  taste  for  litihint;  ttrnt  Il-<1  ine  to  try  tUU  lifo 
when  1  eeriously  broke  donn  in  beatllt,  and  no  plan  that  I 
have  ever  since  adopted  for  the  imprx>vcnu-»t  of  health  bus 
becii  half  »o  heuelii-iiil.  To  my  Mirprlse,  m-itiier  I  nor  thoMc 
wilh  me  ever  catch  cold,  although  thus  living  un  the 
water  exposed  to  frequent  showers  of  rain.  It  wan  this 
circumstiiDou  that  tint  op<.-ned  my  eyts  to  the  fact  tlial 
eoiihi  arc  seldom  eaiight  when  the  thermometer  in  l)ctwe«a 
55"  uiid  tll>'  Fjh.,  whether  it  rains  or  not,  as  explained  in 
a  jin^viiius  chapter. 

Tlwiv  are  very  few  Scotch  loclui  where  a  aottietnent,  audi. 


LOCH  AWE  AND  LOCH  HAREE.  595 

as  T  have  described  ahove,  may  not  be  made,  for  there  are 
eomfortable  bttle  Highland  inns  on  iill  of  them.  My 
favourites,  however,  are  Loch  Awe  in  Argyleshire,  and 
Loch  Maree  iu  RoBs-shire.  Both  are  long  and  narrow, 
Avhich  renders  it  possible  to  fish  both  Bides  tlie  same  day, 
and  both  are  in  the  midst  of  the  most  wild  and  beautiful 
scenery.  In  his  way,  Ben  Cruachan,  on  the  north  shore  of 
Loch  Awe,  three  thousand  feet  high,  is  all  but  equal  to  any 
of  the  mountains  which  embosom  the  Italian  takes;  his 
beauty,  however,  is  of  a  different  kind — it  is  stern,  severe, 
Ossianic  Rising  as  he  does,  at  the  head  of  his  loch,  he  is 
ever  before  you,  sombre  and  majestic.  There  are  several 
little  shooting  and  fishing  inns  on  or  near  Ljoch  Awe — at 
Dalmally,  Cladich,  and  Port-Sonnchan. 

Loch  Maree  is  much  further  north  and  more  difficult  to 
reach,  but  it  is  better  stored  with  lish,  and  (.■sjiecially  with 
sea-trout.  Loch  Awe  is  by  no  means  as  well  supplied  with 
trout  as  it  was  some  years  ago,  owing  pai-tly  to  the  casuul 
and  unfortunate  introduction  of  pike  into  the  lake.  This 
tyrant  or  shark  of  fresh  waters  was  unknown  until  about 
twenty  years  ago,  when  several  were  thoughtlessly  placed 
into  a  small  pond  or  tarn  far  away  in  the  mountains,  the 
overflow  of  which  runs  into  Loch  Awe.  The  young  pike 
soon  found  their  way  down  the  tributary,  took  complete 
possession  of  the  loch,  and  have  greatly  damaged  the  trout 
and  salmon  fishery.  Moreover,  a  steamer  litis  recently  been 
introduced  on  the  loch.  It  is  a  boon  to  tourists,  but  steamers 
seem  to  exercise  an  unfavourable  intluence  in  lukes,  at  least 
as  far  as  the  fish  are  concerned.  I'ike  are  fortunately  still 
unknown  in  Loch  Maree.  There  is  a  little  inn  at  the  lower 
or  southern  extremity  of  this  loch,  called  Kinlocli  Ewe, 
which  is  comfortable,  but  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  heiid 
waters — rather  a  drawback.  The  scenery  is  even  sterner, 
wilder,  and  grander  than  at  Loch  Awe,  always  excepting 
my  ttivourite  Ben  Cruachan, 

At  the  head  of  Loch  Awe  there  are  a  number  of  very 
picturesque  islets,  celebrated  in  the  Highland  traditions. 
On  one  of  these  islands  called  Inishail,  or  the  Beautiful  lt>le, 
are  still  seen  the  ruins  of  a  nunnery  of  the  Cistercian  order. 
Even  in  these  wild  northern  regions  the  monks  and  nuna 

Q<i2 


596 


THE  ITAUAK    UiKBB. 


of  ol<l  ewtn  to  tiav«  sliown  tlicir  ustial  luve  nl  IIh*  lM>Aiitir>iI 
ill  imturi-.  1  knv«  uOvii  tho«ii,rlil.  whcD  lookinj;  uu  tliv  ivy. 
oind  ruin*  of  llicir  form^ir  nhodo*.  that  in  tlto  b4irl>arrni», 
Hirat^  (lays  on-r  wliivh  w«  »a  luve  tg  chA  n  kind  uf  TnttaH 
Fitmiiiice  or  ■^nmniir,  siM)«iitive,  [loetiml,  stiuiioii^  iialtirvs 
iDiifit  h*v  ollni  1x111  pimiliwly  dnven  to  the  clinati-r  tu 
ei>ca|)>t  (^iitturt  witli  tti«  riido  l>ving«  who  mirroiiixli'tl  ttiem. 
CvTtniiilv  the  nuiiilia  or  old  have  Kltown  ihut  clinroii^ 
i|>|)r«oi*tioii  of  the  beaiilin  of  nature  which  in  our  own 
UmM  iH  spvciidly  the  iitlrit>ut«  of  intellvctiul,  oiillivated 
niiidK^ 

AnoDicf  of  thcMP  lalandu  wai  tho  buriJiUpliior  of  on«  uf 
thu  noi^Ubourin?  lli:;ldund  clana.  An  Kiifflicb  urtist 
r<-rcnlly  liv<r<l  for  nearly  tn-o  y«ra  on  one  of  the  liirt^nt,  in 
n  kiln!  of  log  fnhin  or  movi-uhli.-  hooxe,  whiclt  he  l]n)(i]|;ht 
with  him.  lie  wished  tu  uliidy  iialuix'  in  hvn-  vuriouo  moiMlfi, 
tn^ry  and  stnilinjt*;  to  wialyw  wind,  ctouil,  and  nt(imi. 
stin&liiiiu  »tii1  zefibyr,  willt  ■  vi«w  to  im|krovenH>iil,  in  his 
art.  lie  huB  written  a  p]<.-asin<;  book  of  poi'niM  on  the  islet 
of  IjiM-h  Awe,  and  iiUo  a  very  inlrn-dtinij  wutk  dtv«-ripl)v« 
of  till-  lorli,  mill  of  hin  xtudii-H  thurciit,  entitled  "  A  I'liiiiU-r's 
Camp  in  the  lliiclilaiKU." 

Tlie  nienlioii  i>l'  my  favoutito  pastime  has  carried  me 
Awuy  l'r»m  eunny  Italy  and  from  it«  itmiling  hike*,  into 
^\ild  and  itoinhrv  ooiuitiy  of  0««iaii ;  I  maitt  n'liim 
beiiiitil'id  Ixuo.  After  breakfast  we  Btart«d  from  Lurertt 
home,  but  were  soon  deservedly  punished  ttir  dirfpi^inj; 
knoivlud;^.  Our  bontinen  told  us  the  ni^lit  l<cfi>rv  that  wrn 
Du^ht  tn  leave  at  veven  Vclix-k  in  the  mornini;  in  order  to 
meh  Iwo  before  thu  "  aiiru"  aroce.  Tbo  tt»'«,nr  sliubt 
brrvze,  tu  a  wind  that  ennimenvi-s  (Uiily  in  snmmiT  aUiut 
ten  or  eleven,  in  the  Buiilh  of  the  lake,  and  blows  ufiwurOa 
to  tlte  north,  that  u,  Iroin  the  phiins  towards  the  moun. 
tains;  it  if  the  rrpreveiitalive  of  the  (hiilv  eea-broue  on  ll 
CMRt.  Th«  tnouDluinK  Ix-iriu  wnrroetl  by  tlie  futi'a  ny 
heat  iIh'  air  in  eonlaol  with  them  ;  it  rifles  to  hitiher  atmc 
aplicrin  ri-i>i«Mii,n  vaeiinm  la  formed,  and  eoolerair  riisli* 
Ironi  I  lir  pliiinn  ot  liiiniluinly  to  (iipply  ila  jtbioii.  The  war 
the  winttlivr  1  he  MH'fe  lU-eideil  the  anr*  or  noulli  hreeie  j 
lii|[tit,  on  Ihfl  ranlraryi  thine  i*  a  down-draught  from 


i3 


LAKE  COMO — BELLAQOia  597 

mountaiDs.  These  winds  render  the  navigation  of  the  lakes 
eaef ;  the  boats  and  bar^jes  descend  from  north  to  soath  at 
night  with  the  north  land  or  moantain  breeze,  and  ascend 
in  the  daytime  with  the  aura  or  south  breeze. 

We  thought  that  by  takia^  an  eitra  rower  we  shoald 
meet  the  emergency  of  the  case,  lint  we  were  mistaken. 
We  proceeded  merrily,  the  lake  all  bat  calm,  for  tlie  first 
hour,  but  about  eleven  o'clock,  on  rounding  a  promontory, 
we  saw  a  mite  ahead  of  us  a  swell  rapidly  advancing;  it 
was  the  unra.  It  soon  reached  us,  progress  l)ocame  laboriouf>, 
and  Bome  of  our  party  begun  to  feel  uneiisy.  We  there- 
fore landed  at  a  populuus  village, — there  are  such  villages 
every  few  miles  uluftg  the  shore, — obtained  a  local  convey- 
ance,  and  left  the  boat  to  its  fate. 

A  week  passed  rapidly  at  our  pretty  lake-side  abode, 
most  of  the  day  being  spent  on  the  water,  ivith  benefit  to 
mind  and  body,  and  then  we  departed — not  without  regret — 
lor  liellaggio,  on  Lake  Como.  BcUaggio  is  Ciisily  reached, 
by  rail  to  Lecco  on  one  arm  of  the  lake,  and  by  steamer  or 
])rivate  carriage  from  thence.  This  pretty  village  thoroughly 
<l<^servea  its  Italian  name,  "  beaulil'ul  residence."  It  is 
situatt^d  on  a  promontory  that  juts  out  into  the  middle  of 
the  lake,  where  the  three  arms  or  divisions  meet,  commands 
them  all,  and  isoiieof  the  must  cnjovuble  positions  on  Lake 
Como.  There  are  several  good  hotels,  nnd  the  one  at  which 
we  stayed,  the  Grande  Brelagne,  is  a  most  comfortable  and 
agreeable  rt'sidence.  The  terraced  garden  in  front  descends 
down  to  the  lake,  and  the  views  are  truly  splendid  in  every 
direction,  mountain  and  sky  blending  everywhere  in  glorious 
harmony,  with  all  the  southern  characteristics  described 
when  s|>e8king  of  I&eo. 

Lite  at  Lake  Como  is  essentially  "  Lacustrine,"  if  I  may 
venture  on  so  Kcientific  a  term,  by  which  is  meant  that  it 
is  spent  on  the  water,  as  at  Venice.  All  eKcursions  are 
made,  all  the  palaces  and  ganlens  are  reached  by  water;  so 
that  the  gondola  or  bout  becomes,  as  it  were,  a  part  of  one's 
existence.  For  my  own  part,  nut  only  did  I  join  my  friends 
in  all  their  promenades  and  eicnrsions,  but  when  at  home, 
in  early  morn  and  until  late  at  eve,  I  made  it — the  lake — 
my  abode.  In  leisure  moments,  and  all  were  leisure  moments 


598 


THE   ITALIAN   I4AKES. 


ill  these  happy  daye,  instend  of  lying  on  a  cloalc  on  the  gnu 

luui-iiii;,  rcailin^,  or  luiiking  at  tlie  clouds,  as  at  Meotoae, 
ui^ed  to  tuku  a  little  skilf,  witli  a  pretty  (ringed,  red  and  bit 
Ktripeil  uwiiing,  nnil  wit.li  or  without  a  coin)>anion,  I  rowi 
into  the  lake,  a  luilu  or  two  from  the  shore.  Then  I  lai 
down  the  ourri,  aii<),  uiotie  in  the  little  world  of  waters,  lyin 
lit  tlic  l)ott'ini  of  the  hoiit,  surrounded  by  nil  that  is  nna 
lovely  in  niitui'e,  funned  hy  the  reul  zephyr  of  the  old  Unnu 
{lueti-,  I  nuihed  or  re:iil  until  iioei»l  obhgiitions  obli<rcd  11 
to  take  up  tlie  oars  and  to  return  to  tlie  real  but  "  tlowery 
Hie  at  the  holcl. 

There  are  various  palaees  to  see  on  the  shores  of  tb 
lake,  ivhieh  are  principally  of  value  ag  giving;  a  motive  (t 
exeinsiniis.  I'liny's  villa  would  be  very  interesting  if  i 
eotild  ije  shown,  but  although  he  had  several  on  the  shore 
of  the  Lariaii  lake,  "  Hiijus  in  littore  plures  villfB  niese, 
£pist.  ix.,  the  memory  even  of  their  site  has  not  survived. 

The  y iiidiiis  ol'  thur^e  ]);ilai'fK  are  miieli  more  iiitei'estin. 
than  llie  [lalaees,  lor  llirv  are  full  of  very  beautiful  lloweri 
wliii'h  i^lvc  pciwitive  evidence  of  a  ULihl  eliinate,  of  mil 
winters,  and  <>{'  i/^irlv  sjiriiiti's.  The  jirinuipal  feature  i 
them,  .\]>rd  ^Dth,  was  the  liixurianee  and  i^roat  size  of  th 
('anielliar-.  Azaleas,  and  .Magnolias.  The  Camellias  wer 
yiowiii^^  in  the  ii|ien  iirnund  as  bushes  or  small  trees,  fror 
tMi'olv  til  thirty  lei't  lii^li.  eoverrd  wilh  tens  ut' tlifusand 
'if  white  and  yellow  Iliiwiii'Si  the  iMaiinolias  were  ijuit 
liiivst  trees,  like  llliddK■■^ix,ed  oaks,  and  were  white  wit 
liiiiTf.  l,l(i>-oiijs.  All  our  early  siioiuier  lluwerpi  were  i 
bhium  and  u'lowiii^'-  liixiiriaiillv.  There  were  Ijemciii  tret 
))laiiled,  <'^|ialier  f';isliiiiti,  in  the  <>]>i'i),  but  then  tliev  av 
rnveri'd  ti|>  «illi  mats  all  winirr,  and  these  mats  hail  onl 
bei'ii  I'i'eeiitly  taken  nil',  r-n  thai,  they  loi'ked  very  ineuf^r 
and  sU-a;;:;liiiir- 

The  reeiillielinn  nl'  my  residenc:e  at.  ltella^-;iio,  altboii^ 
mi  enjiiyalile  in  every  Ji'sjicel,  is  saddrned  l)y  an  even 
whieli  |iainliilly  rrpro'liu'  d  fnnner  Najiles  ex]>erienee.  1 
the  same  Imlel  were  an  AnieiiiMii  ■;fiillc'riiari  and  thre 
Vining  <hiti;;l)1i'i's.  '1  hey  eanie  Innn  Coino  nn  the  »^iiin 
steamer  as  oiirsilves.  one  <lay  llial  we  had  bei'ii  liiere  i\\ 
tin  exeurt^ioii,  and  1  nulieed  un  board  that  one  ol  the  vouii; 


LAKES  COMO-^LUQANO — MAGOIORE.  59^ 

ladies  appeared  to  have  a  bad  headacbe,  and  to  be  too  ill  ia 
enjoy  tlie  scenery.  The  next  day.  I  was  consulted  by  her" 
father,  and  found  to  my  deep  regret  that  she  presented  all 
the  symptoms  of  severe  typhoid  fever  in  its  early  stage. 
The  family  had  spent  part  of  the  winter  ut  Naples,  and 
had  only  lefl  it  a.  tew  days  previously.  I  did  what  I  could 
foi'  my  young  patient,  a  charming  girl  of  ninebeen,  whilst 
I  remained,  and  placed  her  in  the  best  medical  hands  I 
could  hud  when  I  tuft.  She  was  very  ill,  but  I  thought 
her  youth,  medical  treatment,  and  the  pure  air  in  which 
she  was,  would  triumph  over  the  disease.  It  was  not  to 
he,  however,  her  young  days  were  numbered,  and  I  subse- 
quently heard  that  after  our  departure  she  got  rapidly 
worse,  and  died  in  a  few  days.  The  poor  girl  was  fatally 
poisoned  by  the  deadly  emanations  of  lair  Naples,  and  only 
left  it  to  droop  and  die.  Most  truly  might  it  be  said  ia 
her  case,  and  in  similar  ones,  "  vedere  Napoli,  e  poi 
mo  r  ire," 

From  Como  we  went  to  Lug.ino,  staying  there  a  couple 
of  days.  The  impressions  of  former  visits  were  revived, 
and  they  are  nut  i'uvourable  to  Lugano;  it  has  always 
iitnick  me  that  this  lake  and  its  town  have  a  cold,  sombre, 
Hortberu  look.  There  is  not  aliout  it  tlie  smiling  grace  or 
southern  suunincss  of  Como,  Maggiore,  Iseo.  From  thence 
wc  took  a  carriage  to  Lake  Como,  and  the  steamer  across 
to  llaveno,  where  we  again  settled  down.  Lake  Maggiore 
has  all  the  charm  of  Como,  but  it  is  on  a  larger,  vaster, 
wider  scale,  and  the  mountains  that  surround  its  southern 
shores  arc  lower,  le^js  Alpine.  The  Borromeo  islands, 
bituated  ubout  a  mile  from  the  beach,  near  our  abode,  are 
interesting  and  picturesijue,  but  do  not  certainly  deserve 
their  gritat  reputation.  The  palace  is  second-rate,  and  the 
gardens  are  sliH'  and  formal. 

Fi'om  Baveno  we  made  an  excursion  to  Lake  Orta,  a 
lovely  little  lake  embosomed  iu  the  mountains,  rather  like 
the  upper  extremity  of  Lake  Iseo,  with  a  pretty  town, 
opposite  a  picturesijue,  house  and  garden -covered,  islet,  at 
the  suutlieru  end  of  the  lake.  We  made  also  various 
excursions  in  the  vicinity,  with  great  joy  and  delight. 
Nature  was  everywhere  glowing  with  extreme  luxuriance. 


600 


TDS  1TALU.K   LAKES. 


tM  tlic  Irws  were  in  full  folU^rvi,  the  mwnlowB  were  op  - 
llu-    linvce  in  gntm,  nnd   th«  early  Fiinimcr    lUiwers 
fitn'wn  av«r  Uw  Belils  in  wild  pn>riiHi<>D.     ladsed,  ttio  mtUi 
wiM  vnimollcd  with  floweis,  and  tlw  rooka  were  frinG 
Willi  i'vtnt.    0 rovea  of  Ibe  0«iniind&  r«|;iilit>  were  ((rowi 
on   ttiu  rtH><Ui<l«.   nod   we   were   constAiitly   Mopiiiiif*   ll 
nrringfl  iii  elukiiKh  di?li;;lit,  to  climb  up  Uio   l>i;jli  liuiili 
■lul  M-cnrv  new  It^iiil  trviuunM. 

Itnt  nil  drli>;liu  muxt  luive  a  term,  and  the  day  at 
arttviMl  whan  we  liad  aUo  to  any  ndieu  lu  Lake  Mn;;utiir 
and  tu  prt-pare  for  tHo  pT««t  undcrtuLiug,  Uic  pmnj^  ov 
the  Aliie  )>y  the  Siiii|ilon. 

Wo  hod  nit^i!^«N)  u  ccmtotodious  rctturitm  carrintcv, 
f<Hir  lioneH,  and  started  on  one  morniu^',  the  4th  of  Mi 
fbr  ImJIv,  a  villiige  inn  four  hours  from  the  >iimn)it,  uo  ll 
wmth  or  Itiiliiiii  »ide.  The  weather  wait  heaulil'ul  when 
IvfL  Ilaveno,  and  (Witliiiued  fine  until  we  reaoheil  Ihcllf, 
wheic  we  foiiiid  a  good  dinniM-nnd  coRiforlahJe  IxKja.  The 
rowl  rmni  Huveiiu  ia  very  picturesque  aU  the  way,  and  IIm 
littk  inn  of  liielle  is  placed  in  a  moel  romiinlic  xilujitiuu, 
oil  one  side  of  an  Alpine  ck'ft  or  vullvy,  bvtw(>eu  »lu]h<n> 
i(lou«  inimnluinH,  wilh  a  hrawliiis  river  in  fiont,  on  Uie 
■other  riile  of  the  mini,  hnrryiiii;  its  Toamin^  waton  over 
kruB  rooks  and  liouldera,  and  Iranticnlly  junipiii^;  o%-ec 
cv«ry  obstacle  and  iropediinenl ;  we  went  lo  skt-p  tluil 
Di;;ht  to  iU  lullaby. 

'l'li«  next  rnornin!*  we  were  up  and  off  betimrs.  It  vtm 
rainiD);,  and  from  tho  moment  of  our  de|uirturc  the  weutim 
got  woTtie  and  worse  ;  in  an  hour  wv  r«-iiulit>d  the  MQowr, 
and  the  rain  L-linnKed  to  f'li-vU  I1irn  cAine  vloud  or  mist, 
drhtch  only  at  liuivK  ftlluwet)  tia  to  ouUih  a  eltni|iM!  of  th« 
tuiiji-stic  t>(H-neH  va  were  |Ma!>in|t  throujih,  of  (he  ix'iistvroui 
tunents,  the  riven  roels,  Iho  hleiik  snow-tovtwd  niunii> 
tainri,  the  fir  IrM-s,  aonie  laden  with  fim>w,  hatiidin);  uiulur 
Itivir  Uiitlei),  olhen*  tleiid,  iibowint;  merely  Wro  blaHtnl 
tninkn  a^lhvrttii;  to  the  inouiitiitn  kide.  Wlien  we  rciK-hed 
thv  eiinimit,  n<.'«r  Uw  h«*pil»t,  at  midday,  we  were  out  a( 
the  mill,  «in%  Hiiiivv  nnd  liiif,  mid  tin-  >tky  wbn  elciir  tiiid 
bhiv;  tmi  we  wt'rw  in  ^lU'iia.  iti  iitidwinter.  Thir  j-roiind 
Wan  hidden  in  a  windlntt-^hwl  itf  aituw,  and  the  road  liud 


THE  BIHFLON  PASS.  601 

be«n  cut  tbrongli  it  to  a  depth  of  many  feet ;  in  some 
places  the  wall  of  bdow  on  each  side  reached  much  above 
the  carriage.  On  descending,  on  the  north  side,  we  passed 
through  numerous  arcades  or  g;alleries,  built  to  protect 
travellers  from  avalanches.  Here  we  founil  sheets  of  ice 
underneath;  above,  on  every  side,  gigantic,  ridiculous 
icicles,  ten  or  Dfteen  feet  long,  and  as  thick  as  the  trunk 
of  a  good-sized  tree;  we  were  indeed  in  the  kin;rdom  of 
frost.  I  was  delighted  with  all  I  saw,  for  during  the 
winters  passed  in  sunny  Mentone,  I  had  all  but  for>;')tten 
the  look  of  snow  and  ice ;  but  it  was  bitterly  cold,  although 
we  were  iu  the  inside  of  a  couimodious  carriage,  uell 
wrapped  up  in  cloaks.  Two  or  three  hours'  descent,  how- 
ever, brought  us  out  of  winterly  weather,  and  we  then 
found  the  sun  shining  nearly  as  brightly,  and  the  weather 
nearly  as  fine  as  on  the  south  side  of  the  Alps.  By  six: 
o'clock  we  were  comfortably  settled  at  Brigg,  in  the  valley  of 
the  Rhone,  and  our  excursion  to  the  Italian  lakes  was  over. 

Tlie  three  weeks  bo  delightiully  passed  on  Lakes  Iseo, 
Como,  and  Maggiore  cleared  up  all  previous  d'>ubts  aa  to 
the  fipring  climate  of  thi^  part  of  Italy.  Unless  the 
weiitiier  whilst  I  was  there  was  altogether  exceptional, 
and  1  was  told  that  it  was  nut,  invalids  may  safely  make  it 
their  residence  from  the  end  of  April  until  the  end  of  May 
or  June,  pa.ssing  from  one  lake  to  the  other  as  we  did. 
Lake  Gardn,  tiie  Inrgest  of  all,  is  placed  in  the  same 
geographical  conditions,  and  is  equally  sheltered  and  sun- 
favoured,  e!i|)ccia!ly  the  upper  or  northern  extremity,  which 
is  more  immediately  protected  by  the  high  Alp^  ;  ila  shores 
arc  equally  lovely. 

During  our  three  weeks'  lour  we  had  rain  only  once,  at 
Iseo.  Then  it  was  heavy,  and  lasted  twenty-lour  hours, 
with  a  Foulherly  wind,  but  the  thermometer,  previously 
always  about  Gi"  indoors,  only  went  down  to  CO".  I  was 
told  that  very  often  there  is  a  great  deal  of  rain  in  April, 
but  that  it  is  never  cold  rain.  I  presume  it  usually  comes 
with  south  winds,  us  was  the  ease  when  we  were  there,  and 
if  so  it  Cun  do  no  harm,  even  to  those  suffering  from  chest 
affections.  It  is  well,  however,  that  travellers  who  intend 
spending  a  few  weeks  on  these  hikes  in  the  spring  sliould 


6012 


THB  ITALIAN  t,AKG& 


previonrfy  know  that  in  some  yttit*  rain  thn«  Tu)U,  iit  Apri 
und  in  ihn  nnly  part  of  May,  freiineiilly  ;i»i)  L'oiitintiou.Hjy  ; 
th«v  must,  therefore,  mabe  up  thi>ir  minde  to  run  the  riek. 
If  It  clues  not  niin  at  this  timi.*  of  the  year,  tht.*  uoiilhrr  m 
nnlly  hcavonly ;  the  «ir  in  pure,  frwh,  cool,  clear,  soil,  aitd 
t.hi>  kIcv  in  blue,  with  Roecy  doud*  sailing  over  it.  or  Iviii;; 
in  tvliitu  tnaiiBea  on  the  hiKh  Alps.  The  sud  ehincs  hri|;litly 
but  not  too  fiercely,  whilst  the  bi(;her  mountains  iin-  still 
covered  with  enuur,  the  emblvni  of  dvfarlin^  wintt-r,  xnow 
HO  brilliantly  white  that  it  fiiti^c*  the  i.'y<.>  Ui  lixik  u|toii  it 
f>r  any  leiit;th  of  time.  In  such  uii  atinoaj>herti,  amoi: 
i«iic)i  beautiful  scenery,  mere  csistcoce  is  an  inteDoc  plLiaGti 

Th<r  piinwit^  over  tho  Simplon  at  th«  «nd  of  thu  li 
w«i'k  in  May,  in  an  excoplionally  favourable  aeamn,  ha&,  at 
the  mnie  lime,  entirelv  dtepelled  any  doubtn  I  may  have 
had  88  to  tho  adviEahility  of  chcet  eulfurci's  rvtiirnin^  to 
tliu  north  of  Europe  in  *prin<r  over  any  of  the  AljHite 
jtnssctf ;  it  is  eiioply  Iblty  i;ven  to  contoinplaW  it.  To  pM«N 
tliroui;li  Kuch  a  acaiic  of  winUry  desolatinu  as  1  hxve  faintly 
traced,  to  remain  from  six  to  eight  hours  in  cold  rain,  ^Iwt, 
fog,  mist,  snow,  and  ioo,  is  an  unpanlonaMc  imprudenov  for 
8«ich  piTKoiii';  it  '»  riikint;  all  tltu  bem-lit  tj:uin('i)  by  tlio 
saoritii'L-a  and  cure  of  the  previous  six  iii[)iitli!>.  Uroui-hitis, 
I^euriny,  pneumonia,  a  break  up  of  di8ea«e<l  lung  tissue.',  and 
a  renewfll  of  arrcetod  dieeasf,  may  h«  the  n-nult.  Che* 
invalids  who  vixit  the  Itdliiui  lakot  muMt  either  remai 
tlicro  until  the  middle  of  June,  until  the  summer  has  elea 
the  hifi^h  mountains  from  £iiow,  and  until  tina  elrar  Alpino 
weather  has  set  in,  or  they  mu«t  return  to  the  north 
Turin  and  the  Mount  ('eiits  tunnel,  now  compleled  a  _ 
open.  The  Mount  Cenis  tunnel  is  so  well  vciililatcd,  on'inf 
to  there  l>ein^  a  ditlcrenci-  of  levvl  of  neuily  tlirvc  hun 
feet  between  the  entrance  and  tbo  exit,  tliat  uo  fear  n 
he  cntirrttiincd  even  by  an  invalid.  Tbe  only  dTatvhnok 
that  foiei^ieni  iiifiist  on  closin))^  the  windows,  and  as  tl 
pasMse  take*  thirty  minutes,  suirocation  is  apt  to  oome  oij' 
for  want  of  respirable  air.  In  reality  they  may  be  open, 
two  or  three  iuehe*  on  imeh  oide,  without  any  rink  whatever, 
indeed  with  {lotittive  und  decided  advantage. 

Thu  next  day  we  lelt  ilrigg,  deMcuded  tbv  vulloy  of  tl 


BRIGG — THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  RHONE.         603 

Khone,  elcirted  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  and  reacbed  the  town 
of  that  name.  Geneva,  like  Paris  and  MareeiileB,  is  bein^ 
all  but  rebuilt,  traniitbrmed.  We  found  that  spring  had 
also  commenced  along  the  verdant  shores  of  the  lake,  but 
not  the  Bprin^  we  had  left  on  the  Italian  side  of  the  Alps. 
It  was  evidently  still  rather  too  early  a  period  of  the  year. 
May  Ctii,  to  be  quite  eafe  as  a  residence  for  chest  invalids 
who  have  spent  the  winter  in  the  south. 

Sometimes  tlie  Swiss  lake  valleys  are  verdant,  mild,  and 
spring-like  at  this  epoch,  early  in  May.  Fine,  mild  sjiring 
weather,  however,  can  no  more  be  depended  upon,  for  a 
continuance,  thus  early  in  Switzerland,  than  it  can  in  our 
own  more  northern  climate.  If  the  wind  turn«  to  the 
north  the  weather  may  become  cold  and  bleak  in  the 
second  or  third  week  of  May,  or  even  later,  as  I  have 
personally  experienced. 

The  Swiss  themselves  are  aware  of  this  meteorological 
fact,  and  the  Swiss  families  that  spend  the  winter  in  the 
South  never  think  of  returning  until  the  middle  of  May. 

It  is  a  pity  that  the  uncortain  character  of  the  Swiss 
climate  in  early  spring  is  not  more  generally  recognised. 
So  fur  from  such  being  the  case  it  seems  to  be  the  general 
impression  that  by  the  middle  of  April  summer  has  arrived 
at  Vevay,  Muntreiix,  and  other  similar  placid  on  the  Swiss 
lakes.  Hence  thousands  of  winter  emigrants,  especially  Ger- 
mnns.everyyear,  leave  the  siieltered  Riviera  in  April  to  settle 
on  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  and  often  pay  dearly  for  their  error. 

This  mistake  is  (bunded  ob  the  erroneous  idea,  very 
generally  entertained  in  the  north  of  Europe,  that  the 
Lake  of  Geneva  has  a  very  mild,  even  warm,  climate  in 
winter,  and  especially  Montreux,  on  the  north  shore. 
Compared  with  central  and  northern  Europe,  where  rivers 
are  deeply  frozen,  and  tvliere  snow  lies  on  the  ground  for 
many  months  every  year,  the  north  shores  of  the  liake 
Leman  are  certainly  sunny  and  mild.  But  this  mildness 
becomes  real  winter  if  compared  with  the  Mediterranean 
Riviera,  the  underclifl'of  Europe.  Nor  can  it  be  otherwise 
when  wc  think  that  this  lake  and  its  most  sheltered  and 
protected  nooks,  are  surrounded,  in  winter,  for  many 
months  with  ice  and  snow  os  every  side. 


CHAPTEB  XVX. 

BIABBITZ   AND   ABCAOHON. 

"  Loud  iwkred  the  dreodfiil  thanderi 
Tha  niii  &  d«lagB  nhmnn. 
The  oloadi  wai«  rent  aannder. 
By  lishtnins's  vivid  poirere. 
The  nignt  both  clreor  uid  dark. 
Dor  poor  deladed  b&rli^ 
Till  next  day,  there  the  lay. 
In  the  Baj  of  Biioaj." — OU  8e»g. 

BIIXRITE     AS    AN     AUTUVK      AXD    TiaTlB     UtSIDBVCB — SITUATION— 
CUHATB — SBA  BATBIKQ— THE  IHFJUIAL  BHIDEIICB— ABCACHCOT. 

I  Havr  repeatedly  vieited  Biarritz  as  a  tourist,  and  in  the 
year  1857  e])ent  a  very  pleusant  month  on  its  shores  (thnt 
of  September),  in  order  to  enjoy  the  excellent  sea-liatbing. 
From  that  time  forward  I  have  nltea  sent  patients  and 
friends  to  Biarritz,  that  they  mia;lit  henetit  in  autumn  by 
the  seabathint;,  and  in  winter  by  the  climate — a  decidedly 
mild  one  as  compared  with  our  own. 

Living  at  Biarritz  is  lees  expensive,  it  would  -appear,  in 
winter,  than  in  moat  of  the  southern  siinitaria,  a  fact  which 
makes  it  a  valuable  addition  to  our  health  "hnrboura  of 
refuge,"  It  is  this  fact  that  induced  uic  to  devote  a 
chu])tcr  to  Biarritz  in  the  second  edition  of  thia  work  in 
1K6;{,  drawing  the  attcntiou  of  the  prolession  to  its  capa- 
bilities and  value;  since  then  it  has  advanced  considerably. 
I  was  there  in  the  spring  of  the  year  1869,  and  found 
that  many  new  houses  and  villas  had  been  built,  as  aW  a 
very  good  and  large  hotel ;  the  Hotel  de  France,  an  English 
church,  a  fine  casino  or  club,  ;ind  convenient  sea-baths. 
Indeed,  the  resources  of  the  town  have  been  improved  in 
every  respect,  and  now  sevtral  hundred  £n<;li8h  winter 
there  every  year.  Most  of  the  patients  and  friends  I  have 
sent  have  been  satiwHeJ  with  their  winter's  experience. 

The  Utitude  of  Biarritz  is  the  same  ae  that  of  Pau,  43° ; 


THE  LANDE8— BIARRITZ.  605 

that  J8,  seven  degrees  more  Gciutli  tlinn  Torquay.  This 
situation  necessarily  iraplieB  a  warmer  winter  climate,  more 
sun  heat.  The  winter  temperature  of  Biarritz  is,  I  believe, 
pretty  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  Pmi,  with  perhaps  a 
slight  ditfereuce  in  its  tavour  owing  to  the  vicinity  ol'  the 
ocean. 

As  we  have  seen,  the  proximity  of  the  sea  always  renders 
the  temperature  of  a  locality  milder  and  more  equable. 
The  existence  atfo  of  an  extensive  tract  of  dry  sand,  such 
aa  constitutes  the  Landes,  extending  a  hundred  and  filiy 
miles,  from  Bordeaux  tn  Bayonne,  implies  paucity  of  rain, 
and  the  absence  of  that  continued  precipitation  of  moisture 
during  the  winter  that  characterizes  the  more  northern  sea- 
coast  of  Prance  and  England.  We  may  deduce  this  fact 
from  the  arid  dryness  of  the  sandy  plains  of  the  Landes  of 
France,  whether  it  be  that  this  part  of  Pi'ance  is  still  within 
the  range  nf  the  scanty  Mediterranean  rainfall,  or  that  the 
mountains  of  north-western  Spain  precipitate  part  of  the 
moisture  brought  by  the  south-westerly  Atlantic  winds. 

Biarritz  has  hitherto  only  been  noticed  by  writers  on 
climate  .is  a  favourite  summer  and  autumn  watering-place, 
Imt  I  believe,  from  tiie  above  facts,  from  the  testimony  of 
others,  and  from  my  own  investigations,  that  it  has  aW 
claims  to  be  accepted  among  the  eligible  winter  stations 
of  the  soutb.  As  stated  above,  there  are  social  reasons, 
also,  that  make  it  worthy  of  notice. 

Owing  principally  to  the  favour  of  the  late  Imperial 
family  Biarritz  has  become  one  of  the  most  frec|Liented  aud 
moat  fushionnble  seaside  watering-places  in  France;  hence 
.1  great  influx  of  sea-bathing  visitors  in  summer  and 
autumn.  To  provide  for  their  want^,  numerous  hotels  and 
houses  have  been  built,  and  an  a^-live  and  extensive  system 
of  commissariat  has  Ken  established. 

Once  the  summer  sea-bathing  visitors  are  gone,  the 
hotels  and  houses  are  nearly  empty,  and  the  supplies  find 
no  market.  The  result  is,  that  in  winter  Biarritz  is  as  cheap 
a  place  to  live  in  as  it  is  expensive  in  summer  and  autumn. 
This  state  of  things  will  probably  long  continue,  for  the 
summer  development  is  certain  to  greatly  outstrip  the 
winter  requirements,  even  were   it   to   become  a  ivinter 


608 


niARRlTZ. 


colony  like  P.i<i.  Nice,  and  Meatone.  To  persons  rcrjulrinj* 
a  Bouthorn  climnto  whose  means  are  limited,  and  wlio  ani 
thcFvfon;  okli^'d  to  conoiiler  overjr  exfwow,  th'iA  con- 
sidemtton  miiy  l>e  oiiu  <>t'  iirimncy  iinporUiitce. 

It  is  im[»(MiNilile  that  a  towii  aituafaad  on  the  boixtor 
"Ray  of  BUcny  can  be  vaiiai  in  point  of  c1imnt«  t^t  It, 
Riviera  iitxldrclilT,  or  to  flic  caxt  ooiwt  of  Spnin,  in  casM 
of  uTcre  dixense  in  M'iiii^h  lhi>  \it»l  climate  that  uin  Iw 
found  is  required.  Hut  xtill  there  mutit  W  many  oomsi  in 
vrhicli  the  sunshine,  und  milil  tempi-rature  of  the  aoulh* 
«fe«^^nl  const  of  rMtiw  iniiy  be  m)H<:i«nt.  Jkior«over,  tlie 
question  nf  expense  tx  often,  unrortunatvly,  a  iMinuntmut 
consideration. 

Itiarritx  itt  pictareiiquely  sitnaled  live  milea  aonth-weot 
of  ilayonuR,  «t  tlio  holtocn  of  lhn  Buy  of  Biscay,  a  short 
distance  only  fmm  the  Sjianiah  Ironliitr.  It  lin«  long 
Won  resorted  to  by  the  inhithitanta  of  llayonne  and  ^ 
tliB  I'y'i'iii'an  diBtTicl,  in  summer,  for  its  excellent  veo- 
iMlhii));.  It  wnii,  however,  iill  but  unknown  to  fnmv  until 
the  EcniireKM  Kugenic  brought  it  into  nutice  by  makin}'  it 
her  marine  autumnal  reeidenee.  NotwitliBtnndinij  imtK^rial 
patronage,  the  position  of  Biarritx  is  so  secluded,  And  the 
dUlJincv  from  liie  French  capital  i«  no  grumt^ — hid  miles — 
Uiat  both  it»  natural  and  modical  advantagtm  and  capn- 
tnlities  are  as  yet  only  partially  known  and  uppremted. 

Tito  climate  of  Uiarnlz  is  moiliiicd  by  its  ({coloi^ical  as 
wyll  us  by  it*  (;co<;raphiciil  ponition.  From  liunli-aiix  lo, 
ISflvonne,  a  diManoe  from  north  to  south  of  xome  1&^ 
miles,  and  penetrating  inland  to  a  considerable  dvpl~ 
extend  the  vwt  mndy  plain*  to  whicli  the  French  ji^ve  tl 
luimc  of  Landes.  This  diatrict,  which  has  an  area 
S7UU  square  miles,  is  often  called  a  de»ert,  but  in  realit__ 
it  is  merely  an  inuncni'c  moor,  nnd  is  novcred  n-itli  pretty 
nearly  the  same  ve^vtation  a*  our  own  niouilundu,  lieuther, 
ferns,  Korse,  and  pines.  The  climate,  liowever,  heinj;  very 
much  warmer  nnd  drier  than  our  own,  the  vegetation 
much  Ifva  luxuriant,  more  «lunt«d  and  more  thinly  Hc«tt 
The  sand  lyin((  on  day  in  uauy  parla  of  iU  extent  ther 
are  marshes  or  ponds. 

Indeed,  the  Landca  of  Franco  may  L«  said  to  ocuupjr  « 


CLIMATE  IN  STTMMER.  607 

medium  position  between  the  heather  and  fir-clad  sandy 
moora  of  Surrey,  for  instance,  and  the  arid  shores  of 
Eastern  Spain  or  the  deserts  of  Africa,  where  a  greater 
dei^ree  of  heat  and  dryness  all  but  entirely  destroys  even 
the  ve^table  tribes  that  are  peculiar  to  such  soils.  This 
sandy  tract  is  of  course  remarkable  for  the  warmth  of  its 
temperature,  which  in  summfrr  is  intense.  Although  it 
ceases  at  the  Adour,  a  river  which  passes  through  Bayonne, 
and  which  throws  itself  into  the  Rea  between  that  city 
and  Biarritz,  it  exercises  a  considerable  influence  over 
the  cHmate  of  the  strip  of  tolerable  land,  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  in  depth,  which  extends  from  the  Adour  to 
the  foot  of  the  Pyrenees.  Thus  Biarritz,  although  out  of 
the  district  of  the  I^ndes,  participates  to  a  certain  extent 
in  the  summer  heat  and  the  winttr  mildness  of  that  part  of 
the  Gascoiiy  of  former  days. 

The  heat  of  summer  is  tempered  at  Biarritz  by  a  sea- 
breeze  which  constantly  blows  inland  during  the  day,  and 
by  its  situation  on  a  different  geological  substratum — viz,, 
sandstone  rocks.  The  Biarritz  lighthouse  is  built  on  the 
first  sandstone  projection  which  appears  south  of  the 
Adour,  the  coast  of  the  Landes  being  formed  by  low 
ridges  of  sand.  The  village  of  Biarritz  is  situated  on 
two  small  bays,  which  occupy  the  centre  of  the  Bay  of 
Biscay,  formed  on  the  north-east  by  the  low  coast  of 
France,  and  on  the  south  by  the  base  of  the  Pyrenees  and 
by  the  province  of  Biscay  in  Spain,  into  which  the  Pyre- 
nees extend,  rising  tier  over  tier. 

As  the  coai't  at  Biarritz  attains  a  considerable  elevation, 
and  the  two  small  bays  are  strewn  with  large  rocks, 
honeycombed  by  the  ceaBeb-ss  action  of  the  powerful 
Atlantic  swell,  the  character  of  the  scenery  is  highly  pic- 
turesque. The  eoist  with  which  I  should  feel  the  most 
inclined  to  compare  it  is  that  of  Ilfracombe,  in  North 
Devon.  It  has  not,  it  is  true,  the  stern  grandeur  which 
the  geological  formation  there  imparts  to  that  beautiful 
spot,  but  in  some  respects  it  ts  even  more  irregular  and 
wild.  The  friable  nature  of  the  sandstone  rocks  offering 
less  resistance  to  the  action  of  the  Atlantic,  they  are  ex- 
cavated and  fretworked  into  eveiy  conceivable  ahjipe. 


eo8 


BIARRITZ. 


Durins  my  residence  nt  Riarritz.  the  weather,  uM»iI  ll 
end  of  SeptvmWr,  WII8  find  t  do  taui  MWn-^  except  diirini; 
tliv  nifriit,  on  two  or  tliru*  ocnutionv.  Tliv  Kl:y  wan  eleiir, 
{^nerally  cIoikDl'M,  Uitt  Mu  Uliio,  «iid  the  muu  [Hxvririil,  w 
mud)  Ml  09  to  rentier  »  flunstiade  all  but  ii)dtH)Ki)iuiblv 
W-twren  nine  a.u.  and  live  f.M.,  when  n-alkinf;  in  il>e  sun. 
Tlic  wind  varied  between  S.W.,  S,,  and  S.E.  When  in 
the  S.W.,  whieb  tvna  nio«itly  tbc  uhm!,  there  wa*  alKuyat 
heavy  een  rollinff  in  from  ttie  AllanLic  or  rather  (nnn 
Bay  of  BiEoiy.  When  in  tbo  S.K,  uhicb  nnly  oociitn-d 
a  i'uvt  d«y>>,  the  tn  «»«  much  cnhnvr.  On  onft  wi-iisi' 
for  fortyt-'ifihl  hotint  the  wind  was  due  »»ulh.  Durii! 
this  time  the  heat  was  very  oppreMive,  allhoutjh  the  tin 
momvtiT  only  row  one  or  two  dej^rci's,  from  )4'or  7B*i 
76*.  I  vtm»  told  thai  eucb  wsh  al\vnv>  the  cum  in  unmme 
when  the  i'etit  d' Etpa^nt,  or  south  wiixt,  rei;;ned,  and  that 
it  wiis  feared  like  the  sciruoco  on  the  MidibcrrnDMiii 
to  wliidi  it  was  comgnriid.  The  thunniinu-lcr  in  ii 
ttbaded  n)oni  varied  from  70°  at  m^hi  to  1i°,  74*,  or  7tl* 
the  daytime,  until  the  weather  broke  um  on  the  :£tit)i,  wbl 
it  descended  to  70*  early  in  the  irornmp,  and  to  6s'  tati, 
in  the  iluy,  at  4  r.u.  Tbc  tem]icraluri;  of  Iliv  eva-wate 
I  f'lund  generally  to  eoinvide  will)  that  of  Uio  aKirnii)^ 
at4noB])liere,  in  deep  water  at  some  little  distance  from  tk 
shor*. 

The  bcncb,  ns  is  umiolly  tlie  cMC  on  p\u-\\  conftx,  is 
firm,  amooth  xand,  pecoltarly  adapted  for  buthing.  Thd 
are  ihive  ilistinut  eiiea  for  llie  (nirpose :  the  Cote  do  Mou- 
lin, the  Cute  des  Basqni-M,  ntid  tho  PoK  Vienx.  The  two 
former  are  ratbor  ex|>oiied  oituati^na,  on  the  aide*  of  tb« 
small  bays,  and  at  both  there  is  generally  a  ooiisidenabk 
snell.  The  bcaob  shelvK  (gently,  and  Wta  lathinj;  i« 
esvelletit ;  but  wave*  nilliiij;  in  rapid  Kiu'C4'>^Kioi)  bttve  to 
W  enuouutt'ivd,  which  to  the  weak  and  delicate  i&  ratlier 
fati(;tiin',f,  especially  if  the  Ma  is  rou|fb. 

The  I'nrl  Vinix  ia  a  Kpovice  of  natural  amphittiontre  ia 
the  midiit  of  the  rocks,  upoDing  to  the  sen.  In  front  of 
thu  open  or  stajie  part,  at  leaii  than  a  qtiarler  of  a  mile 
distant,  there  are  nevcrul  hu^v  rocks,  whieb  fonn  a  natural 
breakwater.     One  uf  ibeui,  called  tbc  Unu>d  Uocbor,  is  bo 


CLIMATE  IS  AUTUMN— BATHINO. 


609 


I 


large  that  the  eea  only  lire&ks  completely  over  It  in  rerjr 
r()U);li  wu(tth«r.  Thunks  to  tlit;  protc<:tion  thuit  atrordetl, 
at  low  tide  the  sea  in  tho  Port  Vteiix  is  all  l>iit  oalm,  and 
at  high  tide  only  agitated,  in  ordinary  wt-ather.  The  Port 
Viuiix  is  tbo  favounti?  resort  Wtli  of  tbv  bathing  and  uon- 
bBtliin;;  vUiUire  ut  iliarriti:. 

Around  the  concavity  of  tbo  amphitheatre,  facini;  the 
Bi>a,  as  the  boscE  of  a  thvatrc  futx  the  utage,  are  a  Dumber 
of  small  cabitiM,  built  on  piles,  about  four  feet  Ax>m  the 
ground.  Those  on  one  side  ar«  devoted  to  the  ladies,  and 
thoae  on  the  other  ejd«  to  the  geiitlemeu.  The  baek 
entrances  of  the  cabins  abut  on  tlie  clillii,  whieb  riae 
abruptly  to  a  considerable  elevation.  On  the  beach, 
between  the  ciibins  and  tlic  Hen, — in  the  pit,  as  it  were, — 
are  plaoed  cbaint,  which  are  occupied  in  the  momiii);  by 
Qumry  maids  and  ohildren,  and  in  the  middle  and  latter 
jjart  of  the  day  by  the  more  fwdiionablc  viKJtor*,  who  con- 
gregate to  chat  io  the  continental  way,  and  to  loi>k  on  the 
aquatic  appvarnnce  and  performance  of  their  friends  and 
adjuniiitanciM,  and  of  thi!  public  generally, 

UoUi  ladies  and  gentlemen  wear  a  "lutthins  contnme." 
With  the  former  it  consists  of  loose  black  uoollen  drawers, 
which  descend  to  the  ankles,  and  of  a  black  blouse  or  tunic, 
deaccitding  below  the  knees,  and  fastened  at  the  wniitt  by 
a  lenthem  girdle.  On  leaving  their  cabins,  tJiey  put  on 
also  bruad- brimmed  straw  bati^,  and  a  wide  waterproof  cape 
which  they  keep  on  until  they  reach  the  water's  edge,  when 
it  is  taken  off  by  the  bathing  attendant.  This  costume, 
like  all  picluriwpie  co(rtumc§,  makes  the  young  and  the 
pretty  look  younger  and  prettier,  but  certainly  does  not  set 
off  to  the  same  degree  the  more  matronly  oi'  tlie  lady 
tathers.  All,  however,  young  and  old,  seem  totally  iii> 
diiroreot  on  the  subject,  and  ptus  smilingly  bctbru  their 
friends  and  the  spectators,  appearing  to  enjoy  every  stage 
of  the  performanoe.  Most  ladies  have  an  attendaut,  mule 
or  female,  and  many  an-,  or  tpeedily  become,  very  expert 
awimroera.  They  are  to  be  seen  daily  swimming,  with  or 
without  companions,  at  a  considerable  disUiuoe  from  tiie 
sliore.  Tl)e  beginners  nse  corkit  or  gourds  tied  under  their 
aims,  but  the  more  experienced  discurd  ^l  audi  aid. 


610 


BIARRITZ. 


"no  [^ntlemen's  (Inea  is  a  kiitd  of  nulor't  co«tiim«,  and 
«a  cuHtiim  fjivce  them  more  latitude  with  reei>ect  tti  culoar, 
mut«riiil,  and  msko,  great  varicUn  arc  olinervei).  Tb* 
vxqiiisites  i>f  th«  place  seem  to  take  m  priik-  in  showin); 
llii;inMln.-e  oir  thus  prepared  for  tlieir  maiiiie  gymniKtioti. 
1  liiiv«  oHvii  MCI)  Ilium,  i-u(>  in  hand,  fmt  and  anklee  iink(.iJ, 
tsthing  to  th«ir  liidy  frimds  sitting  around,  previoon  to 
takint;  tlieir  firet  pluugo.  Oooe  in  the  wat«r,  nil  Ibo 
Imthont,  mnlc  and  fcmalo,  miiif^lv  to-^-thcr ;  the  timid 
remuinini;  iii>ai  Mie.  bvooli,  and  the  hold  and  h-ariiMJ  iit 
the  art  of  swimming  Btrikin^  out  into  deep  wator.  TIia 
utmmt  dco'imm,  however,  prevails;  the  biMUiDil  as^iHts  lii* 
trife,  the  fatfu-r  his  youn:;  dau<rhti.'n,  hut  atnuigoni  kvcp  ut 
a  rc^iK-cliiil  itistaDce  in  the  water,  a§  they  would  on  dry  land. 

At  finit,  this  ii<|u»tic  min<;)in|>  of  the  bathvra  strikes  Lha 
Enjflish  hcholdur  tut  an  iufringcni«nt  of  the  laws  of  pro> 
pnety  and  deoomra,  but  a  more  close  scratiny  hrint^H  lha 
voHVictioD  that  bucIi  is  really  not  the  com, — indci^l,  tluib 
this  mode  of  hatliin^  is  infinitely  mori!  dcoorous  and 
deDii-nt  than  that  niiioli  ti  pimued  «n  our  own  shur 
Tlie  hathen  are,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  drrawKlj 
ami  lliere  is,  in  reality,  do  inoro  impropriety  in  their  wit 
tioseing  eouh  other's  marine  xports  than  there  is  in  llie 
member*  of  a  mn^nerade  miDKlin;;  in  the  streets  diirir 
the  Camivul  at  Home  or  Naples.  I  mny  add  that,  onoo  tl 
the  wnter,  a  1i<;hl  wiKillcn  or  ootlon  drvM  is  nut  felt,  and  in 
ti»  way  int^Tl'iTCS  with  liberty  of  mnvemetits  and  ivilli  tha 
pleasure  of  halhing.  Indeed,  when  Unthing  hus  to  '  ~ 
carried  on  in  so  puiilic  a  pluee,  a  Ii;^ht  eostumo  of  this  d| 
scription  is  a  {rrmt  udditiun  to  the  hather'a  comfort. 

The  natives  of  southern  cuuutries  remain  mueh  loni 
in  the  wat^ir  than  wc  do,  and  often  make  their  hathii 
consist  of  Various  »tii(j*»  of  |^>inj;  t»  and  ont,  nsiiM;» 
Iwceii-linies.     This  they  can  do  with  iinimnity,  ouing 
thf  Iiiiii{ifr3liirc  of  the  water.     When  hath  ihu  iiir  und  titr 
sea    nro  Tl"  or  7ll*    Kahr.,    as    was    the    case  during  tl 
greiitt'r  jiart  of  my  slay  at  ItiarntE,  luitliin^  is  un  iml< 
Bcril<ah)e   luzury,  and   the  indueemvitt   to  remain  in  fo 
mvru   than  u  plunge  eerluinly   i»  very  great.     I   heliuv 
that  tliere  is  no  danger  in  the  moderate  prolongation 


VEGETATION — CLTMATE.  611 

the  Bea-batb,  as  long  as  no  sensation  of  cold  or  chill  is 
experienced. 

The  vegetation  around  Biarritz  gives  evidence  of  a 
southern  climate,  without,  however,  being  as  characteris- 
tically southern  as  that  of  Nice.  Nice  is  pretty  nearly 
in  the  same  latitude,  but  is  sheltered  from  the  north  hy 
the  Maritime  Alps.  At  "  exposed  "  Biarritz  the  principal 
trees  are  Planes,  the  principal  product,  Indian  Com.  The 
Tamarix  grows  very  luxuriantly,  and  becomes  a  tree,  some 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  high ;  but  there  are  no  Orange  trees, 
gigantic  Aloes,  Opiintias,  Palms,  or  Caper  plants,  as  at 
Nice  and  along  the  Riviera.  Ferns  are  very  abundant  in 
the  lanes,  of  which  there  are  many  in  the  neighbourhood. 
They  are  paths,  or  cart-tracks,  sunk  a  few  feet  below  tho 
level  of  the  adjoining  fields,  and  their  banks  are  covered 
with  ferns,  mostly  of  the  same  species  as  those  found  in 
£n<;laud.     Heather  srows  freely  also  in  the  sandy  soil. 

On  the  whole,  Biarritz  is  a  very  enjoyable  seaside 
residence,  and  presents  some  peculiarities  and  advantages 
which  will  probably  render  it  useful  to  our  countrymen, 
now  it  can  be  easily  reached  by  the  railroad  from  Paris 
to  Bayonne,  both  as  an  autumn  and  winter  resort.  In 
summer  the  heat  is,  nn  doubt,  greater  than  is  agreeable 
to  the  natives  of  our  i^les,  but  in  .September  and  October 
the  temperature  is  moderate,  and  suitable  to  the  healthy. 
Those  wlio  uannut  resort  to  our  own  coasts  in  July  and 
August,  and  to  whom  a  mild  or  warm  temperature  is 
essential,  have  thus  the  opportunity  of  still  enjoying  at 
Biarritz  summer  sea-bathing,  at  a  time  when  with  us  both 
the  sea-water  and  the  external  atmosphere  are  becoming 
chilly. 

The  village  of  Biarritz,  like  all  French  seaside  villages 
and  towns,  is  built  away  from  the  sea,  behind  the  clilfB 
which  form  the  bay.  All  French  maritime  populations 
endeavour  to  shelter  their  homes  from  sea  winds,  which 
they  seem  to  look  upon  as  enemies  to  be  avoided  as 
much  as  possible.  It  is  a  straggling  village,  composed  of 
two  streets  parallel  to  the  cliHi',  and  contains  no  Marine 
Parades,  no  Marine  Crescents,  but  a  heterogeneous  collec- 
tion of  bouses  of  all  sizes  and  shapes,  with  booths  in  the 

K  K  £ 


612 


BIARRITZ. 


ntddle  of  the  BtrwU,  which  give  it  the  oqwet  of  s  fiib 

rbi*  ■pi>eannce  is  l«-pt  tip  by  Ihc  Mtrcitin  ol'  jM-cple,  loaa/ 

in  BuNrjtie  cottiinia,  who  |>aur  id  kII  liny  by  tfi*.-  umitibuwa 

fioni    Uayonne,    most  of  them    merely    rcnininiii|>    a   fev 

bonrs ;  in  other  nmoKU,  Biarritz  is  b  v«-ry  ()uivrt  pbu»). 

Tho  latv  im|)«ria]  rendence,  "lh«  Villa  £ni|^ni«,"  !•  a 

amal),  rather  luikml  French  ohateiiu — a   mtninttiro  of  the 

palaco  of  St.  Cloud.     It  pmcnl*  the  fortn  ol'  n  purallelo- 

gmm,  the  \>a*t  being  turned  towards  the  sea.  And  is  situuird 

oil  the  beach,  on  a    t«rra«e,  partly  artificial.      Pram    lite 

drawing- room  wind»w»  th«  vmv  m  Inily  niuriue:  oothiog 

U  wtrn  but  the  wide  ocean,  and  some  large  rockH  in  tht 

olhocr,  a^inet  and  orrr  n'hi<:h    tho  nur^c    is    constantly 

fbrmkiii);.     At  hitch  tide  Uie  sea  buthw  the  foot   of  tho 

lemice,  aod  in  ronj^  weather  the  n-aves  braalf  over  il,  and 

cover  the  front  of  the  houw  with  their  spray ;  so  much  bo, 

indeed,  tliat  conaidcrahle  damage  ia  occu«ioually  clouo,  and 

Ipratingshavebeeaplacedatthel^ttoraortlie  wiadowstotake 

ioff  tho  sro-n'nt4)r  which  dnshce  agntitst  them.     Ooe  adwi* 

rtagc  the  residents  ut  BiiirriU  ccrtiiinly  (•oseess  over  us  of 

the  Mediterraneuii,  tbey   have  ihc  rolling  surgea  of 

Atlantic,  the  daily  rise  and  fall  of  the  great  Ocvun  ewel 

and  tlie   tempestuous   waters  of  tliv   Buy  of   Bi«cuy 

con  template. 

The  lU-T.  Mr.  Crow,  the  Englinh  clergyman  in  188! 
infurmod  nic  that  in  the  month  of  January  of  that  year 
the  average  of  bis  daily  observations,  made  at  8  a.m.  oa 
a  north  trail,  d'ax  abont  tO'  Fahr.  'Hie  highest  totnfwni- 
turc  dnnug  that  montb  at  the  abore  hoar  n-as  U^",  the 
lowest  30*.  In  Fehnuiry  thi-ro  was  some  vory  oold  weather. 
l>uriugB«vcn  dnys  the  bi^b«it  temj^erature  u-u  3t*  (ut  8 
A.U.),  the  lowest  24*.  With  the  eiception  of  that  week, 
ttio  wmther  was  gloriotia,  the  theruiometcr  alUr  Jan 
varying  from  ■iif  to  Bi". 

These  data  nrw  just  what  inigttt   be  expected.     Bei 
Ntuated  in  the  sotitli  of  Prance,  on  the  margin  of  a   vi 
tnkctof  land  in  which,  whatever  the  cause,  lux*  rain    fa' 
than  further   north,  Biarritz   mast   Iw   mild,   sunny, 
compuratively  dry  in  winter.     Having,  however,  no  moi 
lain  protection  whatever  to   tlie    north,  it    mUHt  also 


RAINPALL — ^WINSS. 


618 


^^01 


liable,  like  Pao,  to  Bpella  of  eoH  wphUut  when   the  win 
Uoin  fVom  thnC  quarter.     It  liii«  not  Wliind  it  ttie  sereea^ 
of  the  ^fiiritimn  Alp>',  nor  liiix  it  the  night  radiation  of  the 
mii-ivnrm^d  Riviora  mounlnin^. 

Dr.  Chapman,  no  English  physiciiin,  who  \(>ag;  practised 
Bt  Biarritx,  sttles  that  tim  avcmt^  rainfall  durioff  three 
yeure  for  th«  xeven  winter  months,  from  the  beginning  at 
October  to  the  end  of  April,  was  25-81  inche*,  on  seventy- 
six  diiye.  The  rnin  i«  olWn  vuiy  heuvy,  indeed  torrential, 
several  inches  falling  in  the  twenty-four  honrs.  On  many 
of  the  rainy  d«ya,  however,  the  fnll  is  wry  xlight. 

The  wind,  when  it  blowv  from  the  sooth-west  or  north- 
west, iit  often  furioufL  On  my  last  Tisit  on  the  23itd  of 
Mny,  there  waa  a  gale  from  the  south-west,  and  tlie  wind 
was  so  strong  that  it  was  scarcely  po«tiblc  to  utand  against 
it.  Indeed,  in  cxjiotied  situations,  near  the  const,  ecurcvly 
any  trees  but  the  Tatniirix  and  a  few  ConifiTK  uitl  grow,  ainl 
they  aat  xtuntud.  The  late  Kmpcror's  plantations  on  th»i 
bills  bi.-himl  bis  house  have  not  thriven  from  thiseause.  In 
shelten-d  positions  trees  and  flowers  grow  liixurianlly.  I 
found  Elms,  Planescoming  into  U-af  May  iSnd,  also  Arbutna^  i 
Miigitulia,  Berberis.  I  found  Camellias  and  Oleanders 
growing  in  tlie  open  ground.  Uowb,  hybrid,  too,  and 
Dcngal,  were  opening  into  flower,  m  also  Hydrangea, 
IMpliinium,  Kili^ne,  Sfwk,  Fiwny,  Verlwoa,  Rhododendron, 
Geranium,  Petnnin.     Ueans  were  ii>  Itower,  Peas  in  pods. 

The  exception  id  periods  of  cold  weather  to  which ' 
Biarritz  if  vx|io«(!d  in  winter  explain  its  vegetation. 
Severe  night  frosts  with  a  temperature  of  Hf,  oiidB  lu 
half  a  century,  would  destroy  all  the  southern  vegetiilion 
of  the  Genoese  Riviera — the  Lemon,  the  Orange,  the 
Palm»,  the  Cacti,  and  the  liyciiiwlin. 

Although  1  do  not  think  Biarritz  altogether  suited  to 

nsuniptive  inviilidx,  who  require  a  dry,  bracing,  mild 
winter  climate,  ther<>  arc,  however,  many  forma  of  delinaoir 
and  of  actual  disease,  in  which  short  spelU  of  dear,  oold, 
bracing  weather,  lunl  the  moisture  of  the  Atlantic  atnio- 
splicre,  are  nut  objectionable.  Much  colder  weather  hiu  to 
M  eneotintered  in  onr  Kng)i«h  sanitaria  Ventnor,  Bourne- 
mouUi,  Torquay,  also  situated  ou  the  mout  shores  of  tha 


614 


ARCACHON. 


Atlnntic,  than  U  met  with  at  Biarritz  diirinfr  even 
(.■xi-<*|>ti')iial  n-it)UT,  Mtid  yet  tliolr  value  ie  un:|i)i.>«Lion»lili 
Frubably  lliarrilz  would  do  as  well,  if  not  better,  but  I 
repeat  a  drier  and  milder  climate  tliao  U  to  lie  fognd  on 
thv  AtliLDtJo  «l]or<w  i«  certainly  iiidie:iU)d  in  nioxt  fomu 
o(  pulmouary  cotmumptiua  whenever  it  cau  be  attained. 

AUCACHOX. 

Having  often  heard  ArcAclwD,  tin  iu  the  Bar  of  Bit 
laiidt^d  as  a  winter  resort  tot  consumnt^ve  invalide,  I  d«t 
niiwd,  in  tliesprin);  of  1H68,  to  visit  it  on  leaving  Mcnione- 
A  Idtnrely  journoy  aeron  tlie  Nouth  of  Prance  bniti^lit  mo 
there  by  tbe  22nd  of  April,  and  I  remained  until  tbe  end 
oFlliL*  montb  cxaniii)in[>  und  analysing  tlio  locality. 

On  tltiM  journey  I  bad  ini  iidinirabl<:0|iportuDity  of  study- 
ing tbe  diDisrenoe  between  the  dinuil^  and  vi^t^^Uitiou  of  the 
Mediterranean  basin  and  that  of  the  sliores  oi  the  Atlantic. 
I  took  ten  days  to  pa^rs  from  Mentoue  to  Arcaclion,  only 
trnveltint;  twenty  or  thirty  miles  a  diiy.  Tbe  lintiiuical  and 
liortieuhunil  evidence  ofa  companitively  dry  climate,  of  ooo 
in  which  vegetation  depended  on  wintvr  and  spring  ruin, 
and  in  which  the  summer  bent  was  intenee,  followed  niu  to 
Toulon,  >Ui')-i;illc»,  Monlpclier,  Cotto,  indeed  through 
Provence,  until  half  wu)'  between  Cette  and  Toulouse, 
Then  the  proximity,  or  rather  the  influence,  of  tlic  Atbmlic 
bocnmc  apparent.  The  water^conmott  were  more  numerous 
and  bctli-r  filled,  i^rawi  moudows  appeared,  Willows  and 
I'oplare  were  freijuenlly  seen,  and  the  eky  lost  the  dry  blue 
ling«  of  the  Mulitorraucan  to  arsuinv  tb«  whitii^li  hue  of 
Uw  Atlantic  atmoKplicre. 

Arcttclion   (lat.  M*)  is  now,  bke  lliorntK,  a  fashiouablfl 
vrntennji- place,  lliiity   milee  Bouth   of  Bordeaux,   in 
"Graii<li<s  Landcs,"  ou  the  margin  of  nn  immeuco 
wat«r    lake,   nxty-eij^bt    milcK    iu  circuntfrrenee,   which 
empties  it«elf  into,  or commuuieatea  with,  tbe  Bay  of  Bit 
by  a  narrow  channel,  only  one  mile  wide.     Formerly  Ai 
chon  was  a  mor**  iisbing  villiig<>,  loet  iu  tfao  i/wu'-'  or  mt 
hilb  of  the  conat.     These  annd  hills,  half  a  century  a^ 
wore  entirely  denuded  of  tree  vegetation,ai)  was  tlio  great 


PINE  FORESTS — BATHINO.  615 

part  of  the  department  of  the  Landee.  To  prevent  the 
violent  winds  from  the  AtlnDtic  carrying  the  moveable 
Bands  into  the  interior,  the  French  Governmontj  at  about 
that  period,  had  the  sandhills  on  the  shore,  and  the  sand/ 
plains  in  the  interior,  planted  with  the  Finns  Martttma. 
These  plantations  have  everywhere  soooeeded,  and  now  the 
shoree  of  the  Arcachoa  Iske,  and  those  of  the  sea  itse'.f,  are 
covered  with  fine  Pine  forests,  that  have  effectually  accom- 
pUahed  the  object  for  which  they  were  designed.  Thi^y 
have  rendered  the  loose  sandhille  immovable,  and  thua 
arrested  their  progress  inland. 

The  prraence  of  Pine  forests,  varied  as  we  recede  from  the 
sea  by  deciduoos  trees.  Heather,  (iorae.  Ferns,  by  wild 
plants  and  flowers,  has  changed,  as  by  a  magiuian's  wand, 
the  character  of  the  scenery.  Instead  of  a  naked  sunburnt 
melancholy  coast,  lined  by  soft  moveable  sandhills,  we  have 
one  presenting  all  the  charms  of  wild  forest  scenery.  In 
the  year  1851  some  Paris  capitalists,  with  M.  Pereire  at 
their  head,  saw  the  germ  of  a  proiituble  speculation,  bought 
up  a  large  tract  of  land,  and  founded  modern  Arcachon.  It 
LB  now  a  pretty  sea-side  town  on  the  borders  of  the  salt  lake, 
with  good  hotels,  picturesque  villas,  convenient  and  hand- 
some club-house  and  baths — indeed,  all  the  appurtenances 
of  advanced  civilization. 

The  summer  town  is  built  on  the  sandy  shore  of  the  great 
lake  or  sea,  which  aSbrds  excellent  bathing.  The  lake  itself, 
from  its  great  extent  and  from  its  being  land-locked  on 
every  side,  offers  every  possible  facility  Tor  safe  boating, 
yachting,  and  hsbing.  A  few  hundred  yards  from  the  shore 
rise  the  Pine-coveied  sandhills,  and  here,  in  the  midst  of 
the  forest,  are  the  villas  more  especially  built  for  winter 
habitations.  A  more  lovely  sea-side  spot  in  spring  and 
autumn,  or  even  in  summer,  if  not  too  hot,  one  more 
calculated  ta  secure  alt  the  enjoyments  of  a  sea-side  resi- 
dence— bathing,  boating,  fishing,  driving,  riding,  and 
walking — it  would  he  difficult  to  find.  I  do  not  l>elieve, 
however,  that  it  deserves  the  reputation  it  has  acquired  as 
a  winter  residence  for  the  consumptive. 

A  minute  analysts  of  all  the  physical  elements  of  the 
question,  and  a  careful  survey  of  the  vegetation,  lead  me  to 


616 


ABCACHOK. 


assimiliite  Arcadion  in  meet  rMpvctx  to  Biarritz,  situatod 
in  the  wmc  rcj^oii,  on  the  Bay  of  IJbcay.  Tiit-re  jh  Um 
•ame  rooiiit  Atlantic  atmosphere,  the  saoifi  eiposure  to 
wind  and  rain  with  the  prcvnlent  stnith-wtntcrly  an<l  nortli- 
wcfitcrt)-  ninilf,  tlio  nmo  Uiibilit/  to  occaaioiiaf  Mrere  cold 
in  wi»t«r  from  want  of  mouutain  shelter  when  the  wind  is 
in  the  north.  Arcachon  bae,  however,  in  winter,  the 
advaottigc  ovor  Biurnte  of  iU)  Pine  foreiKo,  «r  alxo  tiuit  of 
being  Krimc  little  diHtanoe  inland,  on  the  shore  of  (he  great 
salt'Water  lake.  The  south-west  and  north-west  winds 
are,  conenjuently,  1««  boisterous  then  at  Biarritz,  which  is 
aetnnliy  on  the  mui  kIiotv,  faoing  the  sea.  The  Pine  forests, 
covering  a  considerable  area,  eitendiiijr  for  miles  in  nearly 
every  direction,  alto  alTord  eonfiticraljln  Klu-ltvr  ngaiitxt 
wind  fur  walks  and  drives.  In  this  sense,  therelbre,  Arm- 
chon  IB  a  better  winter  residence  thsn  Bianita,  But  Pin« 
forests,  although  they  may  afford  a  certain  amount  of  pro- 
tection and  slidtcr,  do  not  prevent  boiitt«rofid  north- 
weaterly  or  south-westerly  winds  being  felt,  ss  does 
mountain  range  running  east  and  west,  nor  do 
modify  the  actual  wcatlicr  brought  by  wich  winda. 

If  a  mild,  dry,  bracing  utnioiiphere,  snch  aft  exista  in 
winter  on  the  Cieuoese  Riviera  and  on  the  cast  coast  of 
Spain  is  generally  indicated  in  pulmonary  conanmption, 
it  IK  not  («rtainty  in  mi:\\  a  olimnte  na  that  of  the  coast 
of  the  Atlantic,  in  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  that  we  can  expect 
to  find  it.  I  wonld  refer,  however,  to  what  I  have  naid 
respecting  the  health  fcatiiroit  of  BiarrilJC,  merely  adding 
that,  in  my  opinion,  neither  the  one  nor  the  other  offer  to 
the  greater  part  of  consumptive  invalids  the  climate  which 
thdr  diseaw  rc<]nirea. 

At  the  same  time  both  Riurritz  and  Arcachon  poeseat 
nnquestionabU',  a  more  genial  winter  climate  than  any 
•enport  in  the  British  Isles.  They  arc,  alxo,  iniineaNiirabl 
superior  to  any  British  or  continental  inland  town  i 
form  of  disease  requiring  a  rather  mild  and  c([Ua! 
ttmpemture,  as  a  winter  residenoe. 


irtb- 
tL^J 
!s  iff 


CHAPTER  XX. 

THESMOUETBICAL  TABLES  ASD  EEMAB^ — MENTONE — THE 
SILB — MALAGA — MADEIRA — ALOIEHS — aENERAL  TABLE 
—  CLIMATE  OF  BKGLAOT)  —  NO  ESCAPE  FHOM  WINTEE 
HOKTH  OF  THE  TE0PIC3. 

TABLE  I. 
Bt.  Henry  Bennetts  Media,  Mentonejvr  1 5  Winters,  \  859-74. 


■flN, 

VAX 

ft 

uinJhax 

n. 

nilN 

MitX 

D. 

Honoibtf. 

Dteember. 

Janurj, 

— ^^ 

„    laM 

H-« 

«1-« 

«     ISM 

„       IHBO 

41-B    Ges 

.,     1H8I1 

■M-ti 

AltA 

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m-h 

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44'3     UI2 

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tn-i 

A3' 4 

"      IBU 

i'n 

*t'S 

„     laal 

43>4  I  M-a 

„      1»A1 

Vft 

HI-? 

„      1681 

m-i 

Al-I 

iri 

.     ism 

42S    *4- 

fl- 

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IH'i 

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(1 

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t»B 

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its  .£)-; 

n-s 

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HI 

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AD'S 

mis 

»n 

..     i»w 

13  a  fit  3 

I'll 

.,      IWM 

■U-B 

ma 

»■« 

„     IMII  1  SO'     «i*3 

*(! 

„     iBao 

ifi7   «■! 

fi- 

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43 'B 

B4-I 

411 

»      1M7 

ti-B     ^-i 

rt-s 

„       ISBT 

410  |£6'J 

i'N 

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4'!';i 

S.^  E 

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..      IMS 

41;. 

n3'3 

B-l 

,    ismi 

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44 

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as    .M7 

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,.      1870 

407 

Mi 

I'd 

„       1970 

-US     684 

il-H 

„      liITU 

43-       Bii  '3-6 

„      IS71 

-H'» 

S|-A 

■»■ 

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»      Kt 

na 

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3y-7  1 6<'a 

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BBa 

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61-    •  00-S 

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48'       W7 

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tS'S 

6fl'3  ,  4-8 

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47-1  ,  iS-7 

7- 

„       1874 

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es'V 

«1 

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w-1 

J'l 

Uedii 

M-1  1  EG-l 
1 

e-4 

Medk 

-U'B 

n- 

s-s 

UlN.  MAX 

Tl 

MIN.  VAX 

n. 

UIN, 

HAI 

D. 

Febnuiry, 



Much. 

April. 

— 

„     IBM 

*n- 

M-B 

,    isea 

44'1l 

IIDB 

„      1880 

«I-I 

87-4 

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4K-t 

BS'B 

a     IHfll 

44  4 

M-» 

.,      1M1 

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HA'U 

.,    iwn 

4111 

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M-S 

Mfl 

„    isra 

IW 

H-1 

fl-B 

..      1M3 

4(1 '4 

MB    «'D 

..      1803 

mm 

«r 

t'd 

„      1SS4 

4111 

Wit 

«■ 

,.      IBHt 

41>'4 

M- 

Ii*ll 

.      ISM 

ni-H 

flfl' 

t'4 

„      19I1B 

iiH 

M- 

<fH 

„      IBAa 

411-|> 

MS 

H-4 

.,      IMIi 

An'i 

SB- 

41) 

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nri 

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44- 

no'fl 

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a- 

lUltl 

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lAt 

MH 

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11-4 

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a- 

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s-rt 

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ill. 

jul-7 

K-K 

„    ime 

48-11 

Mt'l 

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■      1870 

41-4 

wi-4 

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„      1870 

V4 

jVi-7 

B-fl 

.    lani 

Wl 

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»      1871 

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47  B 

fll- 

h'l 

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Kl-S 

87'* 

4S 

a       IttTt 

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4'1 

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47- n 

OOH  '  ft- 

-      1672 

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BUS 

4'8 

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M-H 

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81-9  .  4« 

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408 

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4U 

B       187* 

«il' 

M^ 

«! 

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40' 

fid-?  la-i 

.1      1874 

Bl'3 

itrB 

n 

*8't 

M-7 

*-l 

Mtdia 

tf-3 

1 

MadU 

Jn-i 

88'S 

ti 

Mean  Uin.  for  the  Six  'Wiii4«r  Uonthg  for  fiiUen  rears    .    .  454 

Mean  Mai.                    „               „                        fiM 

Combined  mean  for  the  Sir  Winter  Montha  for  fifteen  years  63* 
Mean  of  Dryness  for  the  Sir  Winter  Months  daring  TirelTe 

Winters,  aa  indicated  bj  the  difference  between  the  wetj-  6*1 
and  drj  bulb  tkemuoiieterB,  marked  D  in  the  Table    .    . 


618 


TnERMOMETRlCAL  TABLES. 


TABLE  II. 

il.  di  lirca'a  Moutkfy  anJ  Ainiual  Me^ia  for  Vfnl<me_, 
tm   rcari.  1850  /«   ISfiO.     Dr.  Henry  }iei>n«t'*   ilec 
/or  lie  Sit  tt'iMttr  Monti;  for  Pi/Inn  Imm,  ISJUto  1874. 
Comliined  tfiitUr  Media  for  25  ycjiM, 

v.  <dDc«.     ix.Bmitt.  *^TS*5I',JSj*' 

Jnnuary       ....  ■iSS  .  .  47-0  .  -  48" 

Kobr.i.irr      ....  485  .  .  4»-C  .  .  40" 

iUnib 62-  .  .  5if-3  .  .  62- 

AjwU 67-2  .  .  58-5  .  .  68- 

May M-  .  .  —  .  .  — 

June 70"  .  .  ^  .  .  — 

July 73'  .  .  —  .  .  — 

Au^u*t 75"  ■  ■  —  .  .  — 

SuptvinW  ....  CO-  .  .  —  .  .  — 

October G4'  .  .  —  .  .  — 

November  .    .    .     .  &4-  .  .  64-0  .  .  fj4  3 

Uoccmbcr  ....  19-  .  .  48-t(  .  .  493 

Annual «0'8   Wii.ter  52"  Winler  M-7 

U.  de  Bru'e  Media  were  obtained  hj  addiog  tlie  ol 
ntio'))*  miide  at  4(  a.m.,  t  p.u.,  and  lU  p.m.,  and  tti«^ 
dividing  l)y  ibree,  those  of  tlio  ton  ywirs  liy  tt-n.  The 
mnxinuim  was  8y°'0,  tlif  3rd  Aii^UHt,  l?i59.  Thu  iiiiniinnm 
82°,  the  'iiiA  Jniiiijiry,  XHiXth.  My  owu  Media  were  ubiained 
liy  lidding  the  maxinia  and  media  of  e»ch  month  during 
the  ton  yearg  of  dbflervation,  iind  divi<ling  each  by  t<'n. 

It  ix  renmrlcHble  how  very  Mimiliir  tli«  rciiulls  obtained 
by  M,  de  Hre«  for  the  ten  yen«  from  1850  to  18(50,  arc  to 
thwe  oblainod  by  mvsclf  from  tbo  aiialyeid  of  t«'nipvnit tires 
lictiveen  lS5fl  and  1S74,  Tbix  simililiidr  in  tUe  more  ns 
niurl^iibU-  UK  dilfarent  moden  uf  iiiiiving  nt  niedin  wero 
TeBorted  to.  KI.  de  Ilnn,  as  8tut«d,  took  his  oWrvations 
at  0  A.li.,  i  t.y..,  and  lU  p.m.,  dcdueing  the  taeditt  hore- 
frvm.  I  only  took  the  miiximtim  und  mininaum,  dividing 
the  sum  total  to  obUiin  the  media.  Such  residt«  show 
tliat  the  two  methods  are  e^nitlly  true — one  Hrit-s  of 
oW-rviitions  all  but  exactly  coiinterlMilnnciu^  tlic  other. 
Tliu  two  Kvrio  show  alsv  bow  tviy  uniform  tlic  eliinotou. 


NILK — ^MADBIEA — ^HALAGA— MKNTONK      619 

when  a  sufficiently  lai^  number  of  years  are  thus  compared. 
The  two  Tables  extend  over  twenty-five  years. 


TABLE  III. 
Mean  Maximum    Temperature  in  g&ade  on  the  Nile,  and  at 
Madeira,  Malaga,  and  Menione,  in  Januari/  and  February, 
1860. 

11*  IN 

Janoart.     Febkuark. 

Nile        1%       ...       T5 

Madeira 66       ...       67 

Malaga 58       ...       58 

Mentone 52-8    ...       659 

Frost  im  Alobhia  in  DECBHBtB,   1869. 

The  following  extract  from  the  Gardeners'  Chronicle  of 
February  5th,  1869,  will  show  what  influence  solur  north 
winds  can  exercise  over  the  south  shores  of  the  Medi- 
terranean : — 

An  extraordinary  frost  has  been  experienced  in  Algeria. 
It  appears,  from  a  letter  addressed  to  Dr.  Hooker  by  Colonel 
Flayfair,  the  British  Consul- General,  that  the  last  three 
daye  of  the  old  year,  1809,  were  very  severe  alt  over  the 
country,  but  that  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Algiers  a  hard 
frost  prevailed,  and  sheets  of  ice  were  formed  in  the  i^rden 
of  the  British  Consulate — "  a  thing,"  Colonel  Playfair  says, 
"not  known  since  the  French  occupation  of  Algeria.-"  The 
eifects  of  this  unusual  visitation,  in  a  country  where  many- 
tropical  plants  flourish  in  the  open  air,  has  been  to  kill  such 
introduced  plants  as  Bamboo,  ChenmoyerB,Ouavas,  Bananas, 
as  well  as  a  good  many  other  plants,  which  were  growing 
in  an  unheated  greenhouse,  such  ai  Marantas,  Stephanotis, 
AUamandas,  and  Faesifloras.  Colonel  Piayfair  says — "Truly 
this  is  a  delightful  climate  to  live  in,  but  a  most  perplexing 
one  for  a  horticulturist ;  the  heat  of  summer  and  the  cold 
of  winter,  want  of  rain,  siroccos,  locusts,  &c.,  are  evils  that 
no  care  can  entirety  guard  against.  The  Musa  Eosete  is 
very  much  injured,  bat  theJaidin  d'Essai  lies  so  tow  that  it 
is  doubtful  if  it  ever  actually  froze  there.  The  garden  of  the 
British  Consulate,  on  the  other  band,  is  high  aud  very  cfAH." 


620 


IBEBHOHEIBKUL  VABZSI 


TABLE  IV. 

NUt  and  Menttme  TemptnUnt  eomfored.    IStfO. 


MinunDni. 

Maiinmni. 

Jasdaiit. 

YlBaDlBT. 

Jakuaat.    FiennABV. 

NUb. 

Ment. 

Nile. 

Ment. 

Nile. 

Ment. 

Nile. 

MeuL. 

1 

38 

46 

44 

41 

1 

67 

63 

78 

56 

2 

39 

46 

43 

43 

3 

65 

57 

74 

56 

3 

42 

50 

47 

87 

3 

66 

67 

83 

60 

4 

45 

62 

49 

88 

4 

73 

58 

86 

50 

a 

44 

62 

44 

36 

5 

76 

60 

80 

50 

6 

39 

51    142 

38 

6 

75 

57 

85 

54 

7 

40 

47    1  60 

40 

7 

77 

63 

67 

56 

8 

89 

43 

48 

40 

8 

75 

51 

66 

56 

9 

43 

43 

50 

37 

9 

82 

49 

68 

56 

10 

45 

43 

40 

42 

10 

70 

52 

64 

57 

11 

44 

48 

38 

43 

11 

69 

53 

75 

66 

12 

41 

48 

43 

41 

12 

76 

52 

77 

55 

13 

43 

43 

44 

38 

13 

76 

50 

80 

53 

U 

43 

43 

43 

39 

14 

79 

51 

81 

56 

15 

44 

46 

42 

38 

J5 

66 

64 

84 

57 

16 

43 

43 

50 

39 

IG 

70 

51 

86 

57 

17 

51 

42 

50 

42 

17 

77 

53 

88 

55 

18 

-19 

45 

55 

39 

18 

73 

53 

90 

55 

19 

44 

45 

40 

39 

19 

67 

53 

66 

57 

20 

45 

47 

40 

38 

20 

73 

50 

70 

55 

21 

45 

45 

50 

37 

21 

73 

51 

74 

64 

22 

45 

45 

45 

42 

22 

76 

53 

77 

57 

23 

51 

44 

50 

40 

23 

75 

48 

74 

55 

24 

50 

40 

40 

40 

24 

75 

50 

79 

67 

25 

50 

43 

40 

42 

25 

78 

49 

80 

58 

2G 

51 

40 

49 

42 

26 

82 

50 

74 

57 

27 

4S 

40 

48 

42 

27 

75 

49 

66 

55 

2« 

46 

42 

40 

43 

2B 

71 

51 

65 

CI 

2D 

45 

41 

49 

44 

29 

76 

61 

G6 

62 

30 

51 

41 

— 

— 

SO 

75 

48 

— 



31 

42 

42 

— 

— 

31 

82 

62 

— 

— 

UnlU 

44-6 

44  ■« 

45-2 

400 

Usdu 

72-8 

52-8 

75-7 

66-9 

M 

ai 

u 


03. 


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5¥?a.^Sag  ^S^ggSpisSS 


¥R?S  SSH?  .S?3.?  =  =SS5£ 


35S 


*;  il  — i-iOrt 

4-h£^  t.i'V  9  4 


gsass 


SS3 


s_i_ 


622 


THEBHOHXTBKIAL  TABIiBB. 


TABLE  VI. 

TO  tLLaSTRATB  THK   OLIMATI  OF  ENSLAHD. 

T  Able  tkowing  ike  adopted  Mean  Tenmralure  ^  everj  dof  m  tit 
year,  at  determined  from  all  tie  Tiemametrieal  Obearvaiwne 
taken  at  the  Rqj/at  Obeervatorg,  OreenwicA,  in  tie  yeare  from 
1814  to  IStS./or^ine  years. 


ofthii 

-lui. 

TMi. 

Hvcll 

April. 

Bv 

Jdm. 

Jnir. 

4a». 

fiapl. 

Oct. 

»at. 

-^^ 

ttm. 

o 

D 

D 

9 

4 

b 

o 

o 

A 

a 

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37  ■! 

ur-9 

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44*0 

A»H 

B7-0 

ftl-9 

81-4 

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u-s 

M8 

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1 

37  n 

37-7 

•  ■'1 

41-8 

BD-3  '   S7-a 

81    1 

014 

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61-8 

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47 'B 

40-U  1   S7-8 

W 

333 

3e» 

as 

47-e 

CB'3 

81-7 

ei'9 

TO'S 

H'O 

478 

41-1       S7-* 

17 

X!l*4 

ads 

ua 

«-l 

l>8  4  1   0111 

HL!  1) 

K)'l 

84'4 

47'3 

4V1  I  37-3 

sa 

3«-i 

4U-I 

43 '2 

M-4 

Ml  1  SI -a 

81  2 

Jive 

ai-i 

470 

81 '3      371 

m 

3H'3 

430 

iS-8 

M'O  1    01  1 

8:iS 

id  7 

841 

40 'S 

i\  B 

17 'd 

'   30 

38-1 

41-0 

«8'3 

883 

Ol'l 

8£1 

8<l'l 

B4'U 

48'8 

41' B 

37-4 

81 

37-0 

44'4 

60  0 

88-4 

«8'2 

406 

37  8 

MpKLt 

300 

3B-7 

41-7  1    4ll'l 

ssa 

MI 

ftl-S 

01-2 

88  8 

601 

4'|-1 

■9-a 

HCUltiDC 

tKU  1    UU   1   M-U 

MO 

eao  1  TO'u  I  7i-(i 

78-0 

WU 

otu 

648  1    la-t 

The  moan  temperature  for  the  entire  year : — 

England 4fl-03 

Mentone 608 


THERMOUETRICAL  TABLES. 


623 


TABLE  VII. 

Diagram  ihowing  the  Mean  Temperal-ure  of  the  Air  for  every  day 
in  the  year,  from  Ohervatiom  made,  from  January  1, 1H14,  to  De- 
cember Z\,  1863,  o^  the  Observatory,  Greenwich,  forty-nine  yean. 


I 


Dm. 

ID  n  M 


ig  M  Ki  10  HI  n 


April.  I  Hv. 
lu  n  loiia  w  Ja 


Jons 
10  ■) » 


10  Ml  ioi*  Sr«|]i>«)a) 


II 


7 


^\ 


I 


10  ID  N  10  »  ■ 


ICI  to  tS,  10  »  M 


10  •>  10,10  naj 


ion  » 
JuDe. 


10  »  n  1*  JO  > 
Juur.     Kan. 


10  xtao 

!I«D1, 


itioao 
Oct. 


atom  10  to 
Nui.      Dn. 


I 


These  tables  are  eiceedinglj  intereBtincf,  affording  an  immense  amonot 
of  information  reitpecting  tne  EngliBh  climate.  Thus  they  illiutrato  its 
miUnesB  and  equability,  both  in  winter  and  in  eummer.  In  winter 
the  mean  is  never  below  36°,  or  three  degrees  above  freezing,  and  only 
reaeh  that  level  on  four  days,  thu  7th,  8th,  9th,  and  10th  of  January.  In 
summer  it  is  never  above  o2°,  and  only  reach  that  level  between  the  12tli 
of  July  end  the  12tb  of  Aagast.  A  glance  also  suffices  to  dispel  the 
common  illusionH  abont  spring.  The  Ist  of  May  medinm  is  49°  8,  which 
corresposda  to  that  of  the  I7th  of  October.  No  wonder  May-day  should 
be  cola  and  bleat ;  the  May-day  of  our  aoceston  was  twelve  days  later, 
owing  to  the  change  in  the  calendar. 


624 


TH£BM0A1ETB[CAL  TABLES. 


liKMAiiKS  ON  THE  TIIKRMOMHTRICAI  TABLES, 

TUB  BETCBSI  BOU. 

The  nnalysts  of  the  {treceilin^  Tables  will  subsUntUts  Uifl 
details  I  have  givon  in  tliu  lirst  part  of  this  work  rwpoct- 
ing  the  <;limat<^uDd  VAgoUiUon  of  the  Med i terra nuan  and  of 
th«  (ieooese  Uiviera,  as  illustrated  by  tlie  Meutvno  nmplit-j 
theatre. 

Afy  own  Tabic  giv«  (he  rwnult  of  thcrinoci«trical  ob- 
servations taken  during  th«  six  winter  months,  from  No- 
vember to  April,  inclusive,  for  fifboon  yuan,  from  1$5I>  to 
1S74<.  The.iu  oWrmtiona  were  taken  with  earc  by  the 
means  of  self  registering;  thcrmomiitcra  made  by  NegrotU 
for  scientifit;  obsorvation.  I  preferred  taking  nuixima  and 
minima  to  makina;  obeervations  at  6,  2,  and  10  r.M.,  at 
did  M.  de  Brca,  whose  r^sulte  for  the  t*n  preoediuff  yean 
I  (•ive  in  Tabic  II.  Ak  nlreudy  Ktaled,  it  is  Kmorkable  bow 
very  jieiirly  we  arrive  at  the  fame  flgtir«s  by  thcM  diffetent 
modes  of  observation  in  the  two  Buoocanvc  periods.  The 
Table  speaks  for  itself,  but  I  would  odd  n  few  remarks  iai 
eluuidjilioo  of  the  rcHuIti  obtainiKl. 

The  ilrst  winter  that  1  spent  at  Mentone,  18!i0-60,  tbo] 
loweiit  night  tcmperaturo  wns  35'  on  the  l7th  I>ecetnl>er. 
The  thtrmomctcr  never  <tc»eendeil  lower  than  37"  on  any 
other  occasion.  In  the  second  winter,  IStiO-Bl,  the  lowest 
point  nttLtincd  wa«  32° on  two  nights  in  December,  the  SZnd 
mill  23ixl.  On  no  other  nii^ht  did  tlie  thermometer  mark  j 
a  lower  temperature  than  S7°,  as  in  the  previous  winter. 

In  the  winter  of  IbOl-j,  the  first  night  that  the  tlicr- 1 
momvter  descended  below  -10°  Kahr.,  wait  on  the  24th  of ' 
December.     During  that  month,  and  the  four  following 
once,  the  thermometer  was  below  40'  on  thirty-two  oigbts : 
only,  vijt. : — 

Deeomber 4 

January B 

February 11 

March 10 

April ) 


THEBUOaiETBICAL  BEHABKS.  ' 


62S 


Thua  Trom  the  firet  night  that  the  thermometer  descended 
below  40°,  December  24th,  to  the  last,  April  Ist,  or  during' 
122  daye,  it  was  32  times  below  40°.  The  two  lowest 
temperatures  recorded  were  February  22nd,  33°  Fahr.;  and 
March  25lh,  also  33"  Fahr.  My  thermometers  never 
reached  the  freezing  point  32°,  although  it  sometimes 
froze  on  these  colder  nigbts  in  exposed  situations.  Gene- 
rally, however,  the  thermometer  on  the  cold  nighte  was' 
between  36°  and  40°,  and  then  it  did  not  freeze  anywhere. 

During  the  four  cold  months  of  this  winter,  1864-5,' 
December,  January,  February,  and  March,  the  wind  was 
principally  from  the  northerly  quarter.  It  blew  from  that 
direction  84  days  out  of  the  121 — leaving  37  for  southerly 
winds, 

December      .     ,     .     .     15  \ 

January 25    vr    ii.      ■    i 

February ^4  P'*'"^^  ""^'^^ 

March 20  j 


84 

These  days  were  all  but  invariably  days  of  brilliant  sun- 
shine, with  a  blue  sky.  They  are  the  ftne-weather  daye  of 
the  winter  climate  of  this  part  of  Europe.  On  the  days 
when  the  south  winds  blew,  there  was  nearly  always  cloud, 
and  often  rain. 

Thus,  during  the  121  days  of  the  four  winter  months, 
there  were  29  days  of  rain,  and  92  days  of  fine  fair 
weather.  Of  these  rainy  days,  20  occurred  with  south 
winds,  and  9  with  north  winds : — 


fiAINY 

DAYS. 

December 

.     .     10 

'  South     . 

.     8 

' 

North    .     . 

.     2 

January  . 

■     -       6 

South     . 

.     3 

North     . 

.     2 

February . 

.     .       2     South     . 

.     .     2 

March 

-1  o  f  South     . 
•     •     ^^t  North     . 

.     .     7 
.     .     5 

29 

29 

as 

626 


TBEBUOMETIUCAL  WWARKft. 


Tn  all  tTi«  wintcn  Uiat  I  faste  pwHtt  MtMenUn*  »  _ 
fall  in  teini>cratar«  baa  ooiDiHdea  with  polar  stomu  and 
with  estremu  nnd  iinusnil  ooM  in  the  north  of  Eurajw. 
In  1S59-60  the  froNt  wm  very  severe  and  proloiiffnl 
throughout  the  north,  when  thi:  tvmpenitUTt  was  Ion  with 
«»,  and  in  IbOU-dl  tlte  thcmioineter  dcwsended  40*  b«low 
ihe  Treczini^  point  in  England,  at  the  time  w«  had  oold 
wvttthcr.  The  colit  wiis  more  sevvre  this  wioter  than  had 
hiita  known  Tor  thirty  year*  throughout  Europe.  DuriniE^ 
the  winter  of  IS6-i<Q5  Oicre  were  uloo  spelw  of  oxcMd- 
iof^y  eold  weather  all  over  Europe.  Kivers  were  ftxtoen 
orer,  and  snow  lay  many  fcvt  deep  on  the  ^roand,  reaching 
the  mcwt  »oHth<^rn  |iurt«  of  Frnnci'.  On  one  occasion,  at 
the  end  of  December,  the  railrocid  Lctween  Nurbonne  and 
Toulouse  wm  buried  in  the  enow,  and  many  )>copl«  lovt 
tlicir  lives.     In  all  these  inelAncc*  polar  storms  prevailed. 

Indeed  I  have  always  remarked  at  Mentone  that  ex- 
Ceptionnlly  cold  .ind  !>lonny  weather  lius  coineidt'd  with 
polar  windii,  and  with  violent  atorma  and   inlenKc  frosts 
ill  the  north  and  centre  of  Western  Europe,    'llie  Medi- 
terranean  hnsiu   is  clonrly   not    out    of  the   intlueDce   of 
extromu    meteorologicul    disturbances    oenurring    in    Ul^m 
northern   rogiona  of  Europe.     At  those  times  we   li*^^| 
generally   a   north-westerly   or    north-easterly   wind,    ih^^ 
sun    is    obscured  by   clouds,   the  higher  mountains   may 
l)e  covered  with  snow  down   to  the  level   of  tlic   olive- 

f roves,  and  oold  rain  from  the  north  may  fall  on  shore. 
'he»c  are  our  worst  days,  but  fortunately  such  weatlter 
never  lasts  more  than  a  day  or  two.  When  on  these  occa- 
sions we  receive  newsnapera  and  letters  from  home  a  few 
days  later,  we  invariably  hear  of  fearfully  cold  weather  on 
land,  and  of  storms  at  eca.  Generally  when  rain  and  snow 
fall  with  a  north  wind  tlie  latter  is  from  the  norlh-wcsi. 

It  will  ho  i>crceivcd  that  altlKxigh  the  ni^ht  minimum 
seldom  descends  beluw  40"  during  Deoeiiilier,  January, 
I'ebroary,  and  March,  it  also  seldom  nsccnds  above  60°, 
and  is  generally  between  -10*  nnd  b(f.  The  day  maximum 
in  the  shade  varies  from  I>0°  to  fin*,  although  ocoaaiomilly 
below  &IJ°.  This  tatter  tempcrsUire  always  coincidea  with 
II  low  night   tcmiK-i-ature  and   an   ohacurod   8ky>  nearly 


THKBHOUSTBICAL  mait  kf^isn. 


627 


always  witb  snow  on  tlie  moantams  and  rain  on  the  shore, 
and  with  north-weat  or  north-eaat  winds, 

A  carefiil  Bcmtiny  of  the  tables  of  Mentone  temperature' 
briogs  out  a  peculiar  and  importaut  feature  every  year  ra- 
produoed-— viz.j  the  regularity  with  which  the  temperature 
descends  in  the  autumn,  aad  ascends  in  the  spring,  Oftien 
for  several  nights  and  days  together,  the  night  minimum 
ftnd  the  day  maximum  reach  exactly  the  same  figures; 
they  fall  and  rise  gradually  and  uniformly.  We  must  ex- 
cept the  spells  of  bad  weather  just  described,  coinciding 
with  extreme  cold  all  over  Europe,  the  result  of  north  or 
polar  hurricanes.  The  range  of  temperature,  the  daily 
difference  between  the  minimum  and  maximum,  is  not 
great,  seldom  reaching  more  than  10°,  an  important  point 
lor  invalids.  Such  s  state  of  things  constitutes  an  equable 
winter  climate,  although  not  so  equable  as  that  of  the 
islands  and  of  the  south  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  where 
the  diderence  is  osnally  only  from  two  to  six  degrees. 

The  climate  of  England  is  very  different.  Few  persons 
ftre  aware  how  very  uncertain  it  is,  and  how  olten,  even 
in  the  summer  months,  the  thermometer  goes  down  nearly 
to  the  freezing  point.  The  following  is  a  reliable  statement 
from  the  Gardener^  Chronicle,  of  Sept.  3rd,  1864. 

"  From  October  1st,  1 863,  to  June  6th,  1864,  at  Worksop, 
Nottinghamshire,  there  were  164  frosty  nights,  and  on 
46  more  the  register  was  under  40°.  Thus  for  eight 
months  and  six  days  the  register  was  only  above  40°  on 
86  nights.  The  frosty  nights  were ; — 
"October 1*1 

November  ....     15 

December   ....     24 

January 28 

Febraary     ....     26  Frosty  nights, 

March 28 

April 16 

May 9 

June 6' 


164 
"  In  Augost  cold  nights  i^;ain  set  in,  and  on  the  19tb, 
88  2 


828 


THERMOMETBICAL  REMARK&' 


4 


I 


th«  tliermomeler  fell  io  iV ;  ou  llie  20tli  to  »5° 
iUi  to  31"!  on  the  22nd  to  2ti°  ;  on  ihe  2;irtl  (o  ;W 

Ttiufi  i«  broii^lit  out  lh«  (auA  that  IImi  British  lelus  ore 
'reall)-  xituiitcd  in  u  northern  rc|;ion,  in  Uie  Mm«  Ulitudo  iia 
Lnhrador  on  the  North  American  continent,  t)i«  •eflportn 
of  wliicti  arc  closed  by  ic«  t'l'^Ut  months  of  tlw  year.  It  ia 
the  wiirm  Onir  Hrmm  that  pvoM  uh  our  i.-xc<<*|>lioii»lly  mild 
chniate  fi't  Ihc  lalitode.  It  is  worthy  oi'  remark  that 
April  and  Mnv  at  Mi-ntonp  tbo  wind  is  ol^n  in  a  Bouthi' 
quarter,  nnd  }>el  there  ie  no  rnin.  Tiu-  wind  in,  however, 
only  n  gi'nllc  "nurii,"  or  wjiliyr,  and  the  nioiuilains  uro 
alreatiy  ki>  kvurined  hy  the  nun  thai  they  are  vrarmer  tJiiin 
the  wind.  Under  such  conditions  the  eea  remains  oultn, 
and  t-licri-  in  no  prceipitnUon  of  rain. 

It  is  the  miTiiniuni  ami  muximum  tcmpenttiini  of  any 
^iven  region  that  {irinL'i pally  ieguliit«a  vegvtatioti,  anil  al^o 
to  n  great  extent  climate.  T  believe,  conBC(|uenlly,  that  hy 
Ihu  titudy  of  vegelHtion  only  can  we  l~i>rm  a  Itne  idea  of  the 
real  uhmale  of  any  locality.     If  a  ihermomcltfr  ts  ruirly 

1iUi(i-d  aivordiiif*  Tio  t1)L'  rule*  adopted  hy  KuicntJfio  nietuo. 
cigists,  an<l  the  iiintrnmentii  used  are  good,  we  may  av«»| 
dalii  i^iven  hy  this  mode  of  obeurvatiDD.     TbermocrKtlri 
ohtct  vatioits,  howi-vvr,  arc  liable  to  error  in  all  climates,  iinl> 
extri'iiif  prci.'aiili«ii  he  taken  to  avoid  undue  solar  influenix-s, 
reHtvt«-d  lii-jt,  nnd  exceptionally  protected  situalion:!.     The 
same  ivmark  applies  to  the  i«;;i»trtttion  of  wind. 

Media,  drawn  from  th«  addition  and  division  of  maxims 
and  iniiiimit  obtEorvationa  and  examineil  alone,  ur«  vary 
deecjitive.  Tlins  the  medium  temperature  of  SO"  as  t]ie 
day  maxiniitm,  and  of  ■iV  jin  Ihc  ni^^ht  miiiimnm  ie  60', 
which  would,  taken  alone,  ^ive  a  very  falee  idai  of  lb«  real 
chmste  M'  a  locality.  \^  hcu>  such  media  are  obeenred  tlio 
wint.t-r  medium  of  tSU*  itnplii-v  a  mild  climate,  wbcrcae  it  ia 
m^ulo  op  (il  ititence  hc»t  in  the  day,  and  of  chilly  cold  at  nJcbi 
with  a  daily  raiiice  of  30°  or. 40'  as  on  the  Upi>er  Nile. 

tt  in  impOE^ihlv  al»o  to  jnd^  nhatn  climate  really 
wliei>  " «-.>>i«ouii"  arc  only  spokien  .of,  and  waxon  media  a 
given.   Thus,  October,  November,  and  December  arc  cali 
the   autiimD  season,  and  a  hijgh  medium   tem|K-rature  il 
Teaciied  fur  the  autumn  quarter  by  its  including  iho  mohth 


.THEBHOMETBICAL  BEMAKKS. 


C39 


of  October,  which  ia  a  warm  month  in  moet  TiPf>ions  of  the 
MotliUirTiiiK'Ati.  The  8ninu  rcmiirk  iiiiiy  hu  mmlc  with 
M(«rcuce  to  thi;  winter  ({uurti-r,  whtdi  inchidca  March,  also 
U  comparatively  warm  month,  in  the  daytime  at  kwtt,  in 
tiioee  n^ons.  The  real  winter  on  the  shores  of  thu  Mci3i- 
tcrritncttn  is  limited  to  Doccnil>:r,  Janunry,  iind  P(.'bruury. 

Mniiy  ohsiM-votion!!  in  Uuiilth  loculitiex  lik«wiKC  are  made 
wilh  a  mental  bias  whicli  iiivuliilaluH  them.  TIiuei,  bad  I 
miide  my  oliaervatioua  ut  ten  o'clock,  i.u.,  seventy  feet 
from  the  gronnd,  and  within  the  inl1uenc«  of  reflected  hcaC 
from  the  bud,  I  mi^ht  have  ohUinvd  u  dny  temperature  of 
nearly  CO"  thi'ouf^hout  thu  n-intor. 

Dr.  Dalryrople,  in  h'a  interesting  work  on  tfafi  Climate 
of  G;;ypt,*  ;^ves  the  minima  sud  maxima  for  the  monlh« 
of  Juiiunry  and  FohruArr  accurately  ohicrvLHl  in  hiN  Nilo 
bout.  The  oi^rht  miuim'im  war  a  fraction  /oicfr  than  at 
Mmtone  duriRj;  the  mouth  of  Jannnrv,  ISdO  (from  liitiltwie 
27'  13'  to  ii"  10').  Dnrins  February  the  minimum 
mean  wan  b"  higher,  a»  will  bo  wen  by  the  coin))Hnittro 
Table  No.  IV.  (from  latitude  25"'  fi5'  to  31*  40^,  allowing 
the  more  rapid  advance  of  apriof;.  The  day  maximum, 
on  thu  contrary,  was  muL-h  iighrr  durin;;  hath  months, 
being  all  bnl  concluntly  Inrtwccn  Iff  und  SO",  and  tome- 
tioies  above  80'.  Thu  meun  of  January  wax  lu  high  na 
7it*'8,  that  of  February  Ih'-l.  Sooh  a  rantC^  mttst  Iw  very 
tryinf;,  •specially  to  chest  cases — from  40*  or  45^  at  i)i}>lit 
to  70*  or  80°  or  even  00°  in  thn  day.  At  Mcntonu  tliu 
inc4in  maximum  of  Janunry  in  Uie  *am«  year  wuti  52*  2  ( 
ihat  of  February  5^°'i),  the  uaual  medinm  fur  the  month. 

Althouffh  thu  climute  is  dry  at  Mentone,  whenever  in 
the  autumn  or  in  the  spring  the  ibcrmomcti-r  is  at  or 
alfove  70'  most  of  the  ehi-Kt  itivulidn  feci  »ppri.iwi-d,  al* 
though  Ices  go  than  in  Ku;{ljihd.  They  appear  to  g«t  < 
tH=(t  with  a  dry,  sinifhiny,  cool  atmosphere,  such  as  gene*' 
rally  prevailx,  with  the  thermometer  at  bV  ia  tb«  shude 
north,  and  from  C0°  to  64*  in  the  shade  aoulh. 

Moroovet,  a  low  night  temperature,  which  haa  clearly  to 


.  *  ■*  Met«orologieal  and  Ucdica]  Obiervationt  on  Um  Cli»at«  o( 
Egypt"    1881. 


630 


TBKRUOHEnUCAL  nBUARKS. 


be  enooiiiitorcd  on  the  Upper  Nil«  (latitude  Zi*),  an 
the  iinat  Uesert  of  Sahara,  as  well  as  on  tbe  n 
Meditorraneaa  coaft,  is  bett«r  met  by  an  invalid  la  n 
comforliiblo,  well-built  bouse  on  land,  tlian  in  an  Amb  t«oti 
or  ill  u  biiat  on  a  rivci-,  en-n  if  tliul  rivi-r  be  tli«  Nile. 

\^'ti(-n  tlic  Nile  journey  is  oont«niplsted,  we  must  abo 
take  into  consideration  tbe  dieconrorta  of  tbe  Umg  journey, 
tbo  proverbial  uuhealtbinoM  of  Alexandria  and  Cairo, 
nbero  tome  time  hut  to  be  K]H>nt  both  goittg  and  return* 
iii|r,  and  the  iK-tual  futi^ue  of  oonvtant  change  aod  motion. 

At  Malai^  and  Madeira  the  day  maximum  is  also  Itig'lier 
than  at  Menlone,  aceordin^;  to  Dr.  Edwin  Lee,*  Dr. 
Fnin(!i«,t  and  Mr.  Wbite.J  a«  tMScn  in  TaUe  III.  TTie 
ni);bt  minimum  of  Malaxa  is  not  i^iren  by  thew  authors. 
Mr.  White  says,  that  at  Madeira  the  lowest  point  attjiined 
in  IKll  »»»,  in  Jniiuory,  Ol";  in  Fi-bruary,  53°.  Tbe  mean 
minimum  was  o&°  for  botli  roontb« — much  higher,  as 
buvc  seen,  than  cither  the  Nile  or  Mvntonc  media. 

Table  III.  give*  the  mean  maximum  heat  of  the  Nil 
Madeira,  Malafta,  and  Mentone  in  January  and  February. 

In  Table  II.  1  have  given  M.  dc  Urea's  media  lor 
Muntono  tempcmtur«  for  each  month,  founded  on  tea 
ycftri>'  olMcrvatiooti,  as  compared  with  my  own.  Hia 
oiiiicrvutions  prove  thiit  the  summer  temperature  at  Men- 
tone  is  moderated  by  the  proximity  of  the  sea,  and  of  tbe 
mountains,  as  well  as  that  of  the  winter.  The  fummet 
maximtini  io  ten  yvun  wiu  89*;  in  Pari^,  London,  and  BerU 
tbe  ihifTmometer  in  summer  ollen  rises  above  90'. 

Tliu  I'aet,  that  in  norlheni  climates  tlie  summer-day  he 
m«y  be  very  ii)lL-nfle,a11  biit  tr<>pic-jil,  whiUt  the  winter  ool4^ 
may  be  very  severe,  <]uile  puinr,  and  that  for  several  weeks 
toi,'ether,  shows  the  ralluo}-  of  trusting  to  media  for  an  idem 
of  climate.     Thus  tbe  annual  media  of  Marseilles  (50*  &*) 


•an 

J 


>l^| 


"  Smua  and  iU  Cliroatcii,  wjtli  a  Specla)  Account  of  Malaga." 
Bj  Dr.  Edwin  Lee.    Pp.  Hi.     1855. 

t  "CI>aDf(u  ot  CliBiBte,  witlt  mi  Account  of  tbo  most  slifttbls 
Places  of  rcsidMics  for  invalirjs  in  Spain  anil  I'ortnKaL"    By  Dfij 
D.  a.  T.  Fnwcis.    ISTiS. 

1  "  Madelmi  its  ClimaU  and  Scenery."    By  Meeara,  White  i 
Joiin*oa>    IB^ 


w 


TlIEItMOUETRICAL  HBMARKS. 


631 


an  J  tliat  of  Meotone  (RO*  8)  are  all  but  the  eame;  yettb 
cliniftti^  urc  toUlly  ditfevont.   At  Monlone,  we  liavo  a  mor 
•outbeni  v«g«tation  ttiait  on  tin-  north  hIioivh  of  Afric* ;  at 
Maraeillea  the  vegetation  in  thul  of  tlic  uortli  of  France. 
^  These  th«rinometfical  tiililea  illuxtratd  a  very  iroportnat 

fact,  t^n«r«11y  i((noped,  Tliere  ie  no  escaping  winter  north, 
of  tliu  tropicK  (lat.  25*^ — or  oven  for  dome  du^rcos  south  of 

Ikt.  ib*.  Dr.  Dulrymplc  found  in  U|>pttr  H)^ypt,  on  tlie 
34U«,  that  the  th  ft  mo  meter  descended  to  %i'  on  the  Slat  of 
Jnntiary  in  latitude  ii"  lU'.  Cold  nij^hte,  cold  rain,  snonr 
Oh  kilt  nlightly  elevated  moutitnia  tups,  arc  met  with  in 
winter,  up  to  within  tnenly  dvt>:r«c»  of  lite  cqtutor,  that  ia 
unless  immunity  from  cold  i»  obtained  by  exertional  and 
special  protection  from  the  north,  aa  at  Mentone  (Ut. 
4^°  4&'),  or  l>y  insular  position,  ab  at  Madeira  (lat.  SV). 

To  entirely  enuipe  winter  inllueuuw,  Uiuivfore,  if  it  be 
dMimble,  tbe  invalid  or  traveller  must  vi:<it  the  tropien, 
or  pB««  the  etinator,  and  m^  summer  in  the  southern 
bemiaphere,  at  the  At)ti))odea,  the  Cape  of  Good  Ilope, 
South  America,  or  AuntroJia, 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

TUB  JOCBNKY  FKOU  K.VGLASO  TO  TUE  MEDITEEIB ASEAN— 

I  THE  UETCRN. 

MAKSF.ii.LEa  and  Nic«,  Genoa  and  tliD  G«qo«w  Riviera 
kri-  the  points  of  the  Meditcrnmcun,  to  whJdi  movt  invalids 
and  trav«lk-ni  first  dirrct  Uidr  ttcjm.      My  remarks  will, 

Iflierefore,  be  coofiued  to  tJic  Jottrnoy  to  and  iVom   these 
n-(*ioni<. 
Firvtiy,  T  WOUI4I  ftdTtsc  no  invalid  to  cndcaronr  to  rcuoh 
tJie  Mcdit4!rranean  ind  eafecially  the  Kirieni,  l>cr»re  Die 
last  ten  linys  o[  <>L-tolier.     S*-(>ti!rt)t«.r  and  the  earl^  part  of 

t  October  arc  still  warm,  indeed  ttometimL'S  oppreeaiveiy  hot 
and  moMt.  Moreover,  the  probability  m,  that  in  October 
will  occur  tho  two  or  three  weeks  of  oontiniii-d  min  which 
pi'iii<<ipiilly  cunstitiitv  tlie  rainy  scskoh.  The  iieat  and 
muiiituTe  are  not  only  un))tea!turit  hut  nnwbolMome,  and 
apt  both  to  weaken  the  eonstitalion  and  to  gtv«  rise  to 
live-.*  and  inttfitinal  congi^lion  and  irritation,  wkI  to  wvna 
diarrliu-Jt,  eoinel iineo  bordtring  011  dyentery. 

I  myiwir  never  try  to  reach  Mentoiie  before  the  laat  week 
in  October,  out  of  regard  for  my  own  iwrsonal  n-oirnro;  1 
would  ratlicr  remain  anywhere  on  the  road  than  do  fo,  Tho 
very  nondil  ionic  of  wliellcr  and  |>rcit4,'cli<jn  that  make  tho 
Kiviera  so  desirable  a  rciiideuoe  when  once  cold  weather 
has  cammeneed  in  t)ie  south  of  Knrope,  render  it  clow  and 
oppnaiive  in  the  antnniD. 

It  is  the  same  in  Kii^fbind  with  Torquay  and  (tie  I'lidor- 
clitTofthe  lale  of  Wight.  Tlie  won't  time  of  the  year  for 
tJieae  and  similarly  ait  uated  locatitied  is  the  montli  of  Aufptst 
und  the  early  |>art  of  September,  and  that  from  the  very 
cireumxtancc  of  their  boing  peculiarly  sheltered  and  pro* 
tected  in  wintt'r. 

Ever)'  year,  wlien  I  reach  Mentone,  I  find  theee  facta 
cxcmplmed,     Within  a  few  hours  of  iny  arrival  I  am  collod 


THE  JOOBKET   TO  THE  MEblTERRAN'BAN      633 

in  to  patients  and  fri«nds  siifTerlng  Tron)  severe  diarrhooa, 
ami  tlie  longer  th«y  b«ve  been  in  the  pla«e  tho  mons  Bcvcre 
ia  the  nttuck  nn<t  tWraonxlifGcuUit  is  to  eiibdtin.  If  from 
fortuitous  ctrvumstuncwi  tlii;  fciith  i*  i«ucl)ed  too  early,  it 
noiiUI  be  better  to  spend  a  week  or  two  at  Avij-non,  Toulon, 
or  Nice,  whiah  are  m'>re  open,  and  at  this  time  of  tbo  year, 
cooler  and  plenentitcr. 

Tlie  monlli  «f  St-ptemljcr  is  generally  fine,  pteaiiant,  and 
safe  in  England,  ewii  for  eonfirmMl  invalids,  iftbey  tnko 
care  to  avoid  the  rather  oliillv  evening  and  mominp  air. 
By  the  end  of  thu  first  n*ee^  in  October,  tlio  equinoctial 
gales  are  over,  and  it  in  timo  to  depart,  as  the  English 
elimat«  rapidly  di>t4Ttorat««  both  at  tiigbt  and  day.  A 
tibiidy  sky  and  deii^e  nioruiiig  fogs  may  then  become 
tlie  rule. 

The  invalid  xhonld  go  down  to  Folkcittoiie  or  Dover  in 
the  inornin<r  or  afternoon,  and  ^lecp  there;  the  next  day, 
if  tliu  weatlier  is  tolerably  fine,  he  can  cross.  If  the  sea 
b  very  roiiyh,  it  is  absolute  folly  to  do  so ;  the  depth  of  the 
Water  in  thia  part  of  the  British  Channel  i*  not  ^reat,  and 
the  sea  soon  rtHeH  and  ■ooii  faltH.  It  may  thus  be  tough 
in  thu  morning  and  smooth  in  the  ai^rnoon,  or  vice  rertd. 
Moreover,  the  hotel  accommodation  is  very  good ;— the 
Lord  \Varden  at  Dover,  and  th«  I^lviIioD  at  Folkeatone, 
are  both  coinfurtable  boU'lit. 

The  laat  ten  dava  of  September  and  the  firet  we«;k  of 
OctobLT,  the  sea,  in  the  straits  between  tlie  Fntneh  and 
Ent^lixb  coasts,  is  nearly  always  rough.  Then  generally 
comes  a  lull,  a  period  of  oalm,  m  I  l«imt  many  years  nijo. 
When  aetivfly  engaged  in  Ijondon  practice,  I  alwsys  t<mk 
•  holiday  in  September,  and  generally  spent  it  on  the 
Continent — returning  for  the  opening  of  the  Ijondon  mi'di- 
oal  sifssion,  on  the  Ixt  of  October.  1  UHually  bnd  frightful 
p<ie8ageB,  until  I  remembered  that  I  was  crossing  juMt  at 
the  middle  of  the  autumnal  equinoi,  I  then  remained  a 
week  longer  abroad,  and  beeiime  as  forlunate  in  the  sea 
ge  aa  I  had  previmwly  been  the  rcverae. 

If  the  passage  u  efTvutod  without  much  siilTering  and  in 
tho  morning,  even  an  invalid  mayoutinuu  tliv  joi'rney  to 
tari*  the  sumv  day  j  by  exprees  train  it  lak^  about  four 


6S4      TUB  JOURNBY  TO  THE  HEDITEfUlAN'EAjr. 

boon.  In  Paris  there  are  innumoniUe  k«o<]  hotels;  Um 
IiOiivr«,  Uto  Gnad  Hotvl,  tfa<.>  liiiirorO,  the  Lillo  and  Albtott, 
may  be  tnentiuiicl  a*  ftrat-claM  hohila. 

ir  l-Vance  hm  been  reaclimt  early  iu  October,  it  may  1m 
well  to  remain  in  the  nortli  for  a  week  or  ten  days  Man 
procoL-din^  Eoutl),  to  avoid  heat  and  rain.  Tho  more  open 
parU  of  t^ri«  conrtitut«  a  hcullliy  aulitinnnl  rvcidvnou  if 
tbe  weattier  i--<  fiti«,  and  Uiere  \a  always  m  chaim  about  it, 
even  for  invalids. 

Fontaiiicbleau,  whicl)  is  thii-ty  milee  eoulh  of  Paris,  on 
tlic  railroad  to  Lyons,  is  better  still.  Tliii  t«wn  is  small 
and  eiean,  tb«  liotvlH  airy  and  o»n)fort«bl«,  and  ibo  forwt 
eoenory  around  extenaive  and  very  beautiful.  Tbe  "  Cha- 
teau," alao,  it  full  of  inturesUng  liiHlorical  recollections. 
Indeed,  I  do  not  Ictiow  of  a  more  bculthy  or  more  pleasing 
rcsling-place  for  an  invalid,  eitli«rou  liia  way  from  tlte 
nortli  tu  the  sotitb  in  autumn,  or  on  bia  return  from  tlie 
Boutb  in  spring.  Fontaineblcau  has  certainly,  in  botb 
seasons,  a  tun  dHys'  advantage  over  Middlesex  or  Surrey ; 
the  aut^iniiiat  line  weather  continues  ten  days  longer,  and 
the  spring  begins  ten  days  sooner. 

Towards  the  15t]i  or  20th  of  October,  according  to  tlio 
KMun,  tlic  journey  should  be  continued  to  Lyons.  Tbe 
morning  oxi>reas  from  Paris  to  Lyons,  Marseilles,  and 
Kiee,  l«av««  Paris  at  11  a.m.,  reucbin^  Mont«rvwi  ut 
12.35,  where  jmsitenger*  from  Fontaineblexu  ore  taken  u]), 
Tltia  train  reaobca  Dijon  at  h.iV,  and  Lyons  Perravhe  al 
I('.15  r.M.  i  Marsuilles,  6.33  a.m.  tbe  next  moruinip, 
Nice  at  i.Sl  r.u.;  Monaco,  3.23,  and  Mcutone,  8.4&,  on 
tliut  day. 

If  the  journey  to  Dijon  is  felt  to  be  suOlcient,  gottA 
acfomoiodation  can  be  obtained  there  for  the  night,  but 
the  buunt  for  tbe  express  trains  tlie  next  day  wre  awkward. 
As  thirty-one  minutes  are  pven  for  a  very  oomfuTtiiblo 
taU*-d'l>6te  dinner,  most  Iravellers  prefer  to  an  on  and  to 
slcop  At  Lyons,  where  there  is  a  lirst>rate  hotel,  the  Grand 
llfitel  de  Lyon,  This  hotel  ia  oneof  thelar)^  and  oonifort- 
aUe  hotels  that  have  recently  been  built  in  Paris  nnd  in 
other  large  towns  of  France.  It  has,  howuvcr,  the  ^rt»i  dis- 
advantage of  being  al  least  two  miles  from  the  railroad,  ia 


THE  JOUBNEY  TO  THE  UEDITERIIANEAN.      6S5 


iho  centre  of  the  iown.     To  those  who  can  put  up  with 
IcKK   hixuriotis  accoiiiinoiUilioii    1   would   KoommctKl    tho 
rliStel  <lc  rUniveix,  wliich  u  witliin  ■  •tone's  throw  of  Uw 
atntion ;  it  is  clean  and  kept  by  very  oiril  peoplei 

Tho  "  dny"  express  from  LyooE  to  MareeilleB,  tho  8  r.M. 
from  Paris.  Icuvcs  ot  rather  too  early  un  hour  in  the 
tnontine  Titr  iiiviilitlK,  7.3U,  I  therefore  bOvuh;  tlu-m  to 
nuke  the  night  one  of  complete  nuit,  to  breakfiwt  (|uit.'tly, 
and  to  take  the  iO.lJti  a.u.  omuibus  train  to  Vutence,  whioh 
it  r«noliod  at  2.21,  or  ta  Avi(>iioii,  T.i.  The  ivcather  is] 
^Mteniliy  Gnu,  the  sounery  of  llie  Rhonu  vnlloy  i>!  ii)Ierc)'t> 
m^,  and  to  me  the  hIow  progress  of  the  train,  and  frecjueni 
Btoppa;;es  is  a  relief  alter  the  whirl  of  the  day  before  i 
it  gives  time  for  reodinsr  and  lor  conversation  with  the 
French  t^ntry  who  t^et  in  nnd  out  at  f.iio  local  stations. 

Tbe  iiiii  at  Vak-itce  (lli'itui  de  la  Puste)  ia  iwcond-rate, 
but  Etill  will  do  for  a  night.  Valence  is  n  pleiHsinf;  little 
place,  with  a  tree-planted  promenade,  looking  over  the 
broad  and  rapid  Rhone.  ]n  one  of  the  ctrwtx  it  «ltown  n 
very  un pretending;  house,  in  which  Napoleon  llitna|>arte 
lived  for  above  a  year,  when  lieutenant  iu  a  regiment 
quartered  in  the  town.  I  always  go  to  see  ttj  the  idea  itj 
Klrungv  of  the-  great  Kmperor  loun^riiij;  about  tlm  ItttL 
iiroviiiciul  town  on  lieutenant  in  a  mareliin^  rejrinient. 
What  were  hia  thoughts,  his  views  of  tbe  future,  tbe  liniitd, 
then,  of  his  ambition? 

Tlie  Marseilles  vxpro«s  start«  from  Vnlciiee  in  Uie  mominj; 
at  9.56  A.M.,  a  much  ht-ttcr  hotir,  and,  nifrntlied  by  two 
good  nightii'  sleep,  the  traveller  is  better  prepurud  for 
snotlier  long  journey.     It  reaohee  MaiMilles  at  S.+.l. 

The  arrival  at  Avi;;non  by  tbe  slow  train  is  rulher  too 
latu  (7.2).  Monleliiiior  [i.aH)  might  bl^  chosen,  but  the 
inn  is  even  inferior  Iu  that  at  Valence.  It  is  clean  and  I 
found  the  fare  and  beds  good,  but  it  b  thorou;,'hly  tVmch, 
mch  as  are  found  in  Moond-r^  French  towns  not  livqiMntea] 
by  foreigners,  but  by  fVi^neh  comnierciul  truvellem. 

The  day  MarM-illi-s  expr««)i  lesves  Montcliinur  ut  10.52  A.U., 
Avignon  at  1  ;  reaches  Marseilles  at  3.45  r.M. ;  and  Toulon, 
at  tt.l8.  Toulon  is  a  gowl  point  at  whivh  to  remain  a  few 
days,  either  U>  recruit  or  to  wait.    It  is  so  Jitr  south,  and  so 


b. 


S8G      THE  JOVRNEY  TO  TBE   MEDITRRRAKKAK; 


diL'ltvred,  tluit  nt  the  end  of  Octoli«r  it  in  «tilt  Niimmrr. 
Tlicrc  ii«)  the  doekyard*  and  port  to  visit,  and  tlio  fonvirl 
oetablishinotit,  a  tn-ribly  interalin^  sight.  Hveros,  abo, 
is  within  a  drive,  and  deeervea  a  vieit  aa  Uii}  first  MiMiiteT' 
ninrjin  winter  elation  tn^t  with. 

Miwt  trnvdicoi  who  tjike  the  diiy  «xpra»  Ihrongh  from 
Lyonn,  Viiliinw,  Monu-limar,  «r  AvJKDon,  eWp  at  Xfar- 
Beilles,  where  there  are  si^veral  §jiiendi(l  hotels — suuli  ub  tho 
Onuid  Hotel  de  Marseilleo,  the  Grand  Hulcl  du  I^mvrv, 
and  the  (irand  liai«l  do  Noailles.  Mur>«iih«  in  <|iiit«  a 
diflVrent  (own  to  what  it  was  twunty  yeni«  ago;  tlie  late 
French  Kmperor  tniDBrorined  it,  as  h«  tmoid'ormiMl  l'uri«. 
Formerly  it  waa  a  dirty,  cloee,  iinhenlthy  city,  to  U>  avoid*  * 
ratlmr  tliun  courtml.  Xow,  handeninv  r^trei'ta  itnd  hwA 
vards  have  been  opened  out  in  every  direction,  liffht  ancT 
oir  have  been  let  in,  and  a  magnilicent  port,  la  Jolli>.-tt«', 
h»K  \ievn  conslructed.  Marseille  has  thn«  iKHromti  a  linit- 
cloEs  and  elegant  city,  wlirre  a  few  du));  may  l>n  jittse 
Barely  and  iki^ix-iiihly.  The  i|iii<;k  night  exprws  which  lean 
Paris  at  7. To  I'.h.  ])uit!<«w  Aviunon  at  0,2  xM.,  reachc 
Mareeilles  at  11.40,  where  it  etop^  i5  minutvs  for  hincheon, 
readies  Nice  at  S.H,  niid  Mentmic  at  fi.Hii  *o  that 
tntvell'-r^  who  have  slept  nt  Avi<;non  mm  go  throujfh  tn 
Kivo  or  Mentone  in  a  day.  At  Nice  there  are  many  good 
hotels ;  among  the  host  may  be  named  11m)  Hotel  d<8 
An^laip,  on  the  public  garden. 

I  have  cautioned-  invidids  against  ^in;;  math  too  soon, 
and  1  niuiit  now  rjkutinti  them  ugiiinNt  gtoni;  loo  lale.  It 
JE  dMinihle  to  get  to  the  south  side  of  the  Maritime  Alf 
heyond  Toulon,  belliro  the  end  of  October— if  posfible 
the  end  of  the  third  wcvlc.  Oth<>rwii;e  there  is  a  risk  of 
having  to  ciioountvr  cold  wmthitr;  even  in  the  aoulb  of 
France  cold  rain,  with  north  winds,  may  fall  by  the  end  of 
that  month.  Those  who  delay  their  journey  until  the 
ginning  of  Novemln'r  nllen  siifTer  from  this  C«um  tlirougl] 
out  their  entire  progrew. 
.  I  am  |H'T»unded  tliat  for  ordinary  invalids,  tho  quiet^ 
cautious  mode  of  travelliuK  above  sketched  out  is  the  ' 
IF  good  ni;;hls  an  sccure<l,  and  a  quiut  breakfaxt  is  tuki 
at  the  usual  hour,.travdlin{;.dn'ui];  the  day  ia  very  vibti| 


THE  JOURNEY  TO  THE  MEDITERBANEAN.      63? 

borne,  and  the  invalid  aniVes  at  the  journey's  end  "withoub 
feeliDg  wearied.  There  is  no  lost  ground  caused  by  broken 
nights  and  extra  fatigue  to  make  up.  There  are,  however, 
cases  in  which  it  may  be  desirable  to  travel  more  rapidly. 
With  young  children,  who  can  lie  down,  and  who  eleep 
nearly  as  well  in  a  train  as  in  their  beds,  it  is  better  to 
push  on — to  go  direct  from  Paris  to  Nice,  or  Monaco,  by 
the  7.10  P.M.  fast  train.  Again,  with  invalids  who  feel 
every  change  from  the  train  as  a  dreadful  fatigue  and  trial, 
it  may  also  be  as  well  to  pack  up  comfortahly  in  an  invalid 
carriage,  and  Dot  to  loiter  on  the  way. 

On  the  French  lines  of  railway  they  have  carriages  which 
they  call  coupe  UU.  They  are  carriages  without  divisions, 
BO  that  an  invalid  can  lie  at  full  length  throughout  the 
journey.  There  are  three  eeats  in  these  carriages,  and  the 
charge  is  for  four;  they  are  to  be  had  by  application,  the 
day  before,  at  all  the  principal  stations.  It  the  party  is 
large,  and  there  is  an  invalid  in  the  number,  the  best  plan 
is  to  divide,  and  for  the  invalid  to  travel  separately  with 
some  experienced  person. 

When  the  journey  is  made  by  stages,  the  French  plan  is 
to  leave  the  luggage  at  the  station,  au  depot,  merely  taking 
a  carpet-bag  to  the  hotel  with  necessaries.  The  French 
railroad  company  will  not  allow  passengers  the  convenience 
of  through  tickets,  with  power  to  stop  on  the  way,  for  what 
motive  I  cannot  imagine.  Through  tickets  can  be  taken 
from  London  to  Marseilles,  but  then  the  traveller  is  only 
allowed  to  break  the  journey  at  Paris  and  Lyons.  This 
facility  has  been  given,  however,  to  Mr.  Cook,  the  holder 
of  the  tourist  tickets.  They  can  now  give  coupons  in 
London  or  in  Paris  which  enable  passengers  to  send  on 
their  luggage  from  Paris  to  the  end  of  the  journey,  and  to 
travel  without  it,  stopping  all  but  anywhere. 

The  Fare  from  Loudoo  to  Paris,  by  Folkestone  tidal 
steamer,  is :  iirst  class,  Zl,  \&s. ;  second  class,  ii.  2,a.  Froai 
Paris  to  Marseilles  by  express,  first  class  only,  108  frs. 
&0-C.  (4./.  5*.};  to  Mentflne,  3U  frs.  65  c.  {\l.4a.Qil.).  Tha 
steamer  from  Marseilles  to  Nice  is  S2  fre.  (1/.  hi.  %d.). 

If  the  traveller  going  to  the  Biviera  sleeps  at  Nice,  he 
can  either  pursue  his  journey  to  Monaco  or  Mentone  bjr 


638 


VmTUKINO  TRATELLTNO, 


nil,  or  be  driron  ov»r  th«  Tarbta  moantaia  in  * 
In  the  Utter  case  be  tthoulil  start  ut  twelve,  so  h  to 
before  four;  the  drive,  as  I  have  etated,  is  one   of 
li>vi-lio»t  in  Europe,     The  cost  of  a  carriai^  is  thirty>& 
or  forty  fmno,  witb  five  fmniw  to  th»*  drircr, 

Meutone  maybeeiieiiljrmiobwl  br  Lyons,  Maoon,  theMi 
Cenis  tunnel,  Turin,  Gmioa,  and  tne  Hiviern ;  but  I  do 
KCOiDtnciid  tJiU  route  to  invnlUU,  ns  it  is  attended  wi 
pIBOre  fiban^M  itnd  fatigtie  tliaii  Dint  by  Manu-iltiw,     There 
k  no  really  quick  train  like  the  7.\b  i>.m.  frcim  I'aria. 

Tliose,  however,  who  are  merely  wintering  in  the  soutli 
fbr  pkiiBur«,  or  who  merely  wish  to  recruit  from  ovenvork 
and  over'fatigue,  may  ejmiiy  inake  ii  very  enjoyable  prog' 
on  their  way  to  their  winter  quarters.  Tliey  can  ittart  earl 
in  Sqjtember,  paea  thn>n<>h  Switzerland,  and  over  the  Al 
by  ihe  paw  tJic  Iwist  known  to  them,  the  Sphiyvh,  St. 
Uuthard,  the  Simjdon,  or  Mont  (Viiin ;  and  once  out  of  t\ 
line  of  the  railroads,  tnke  n  cetJurino  mrriage,  avoid  t 
mil,  and  make  a  pleasure  tour.  For  in^luncie,  from 
Lilian  or  Padua  to  Bologna,  from  Bologna  to  Florence  nnd 
Pisa,  from  Pin  klonc  the  coitteni  Riviera  to  Ooooa,  and 
along  the  wcAtem  to  Mentoiw,  Nice,  or  Cannet, 

These  arc  very  delightful  excunions,  which  I  made 
years  gone  by,  and  which  1  never  think  of  without  pleofiu 

The  best  plan  is  to  engage  a  oomrortablc  vttluriHo  carri 

[  tharioteeTHi  by  nomo  g<)od-natured  man,  and  drun-n  by  ihrcv 
or  four  good  strong  horses.  A  carriage  may  be  churtered  for 
k  given  journey  at  a  (wrtain  pric«,or  for  an  indclinita  period 
at  BO  much  the  day,  in  any  part  of  SwilitcrlnncI  or  Italy. 

Thia  Bt>  le  of  travelling — veltarino — used  to  be  very  corn* 
mon  in  the  sontli  of  Europe,  and  is  the  meet  coinlbrtable, 
pleasant,  and  hygienic  of  any  for  touriols  not  much 
preaaed  for  time,  or  very  partiouhir  about  expense.  Oiioo 
tb«  travdier  baa  aeoured  a  roomy  and  easy  carriage,  with  an 
intelligent,  civil  driver,  both  of  whicli  are  to  bo  bad  if 
MOgbt  for,— 4nd  onoo  the  agreement  fixing  the  jMymtint, 
at  so  much  tlie  distance  or  so  much  a  day,  has  been  duly 
signed  and  delivered,  he  may  bid  adica  to  csre.  He  W- 
comes  master  of  his  movement*,  be  c*n  eat  when  he  likca^ 
walk  when  he  likes,  and  sleep  when  he  likes.    Tims 


and 

iurM 
iag4 


r 


TBrroWNO  TRAVELLING. 


639 


I 


CTcntcRi  dntwliaclcR  to  continued  travelling  are  raiooved 
from  Ills  nnlli. 

It  §hoiil(i  be  rcmcmlwrcd,  thmt  in  rellurina  travcllinf^,  tlic 
driver  for  Ihi^  time  living  ik  your  ttervant,  and  must  du  your 
biddinfr,  nnd  evori'tbing  should  be  arranged  in  confutmity 
with  pr«viotie  habita  and  Iho  laws  of  hy^np,  provided  the 
tt-ritton  agreement  be  not  infringed.  Tiiu*  tbe  journoy 
becomes  a  plciisiin*,  and  a  aouroe  of  health  instead  of  a  tital 
of  (itrctieUi,  tt!t  oflen  occurs, 

The  pliJin  which  I  generally  adopted  was  to  riie  at  six  or 
■cvon,  to  take  a  oiip  of  \ea  or  culfuc,  and  to  aturt  ut  Hewn 
or  eiglit>  the  carriage  being  clo««d  at  the  top  tia  a  jirotec- 
tioD  ngaiiMt  the  nun,  open  at  the  sides,  and  prepared  for 
the  dav't  campaign  by  a  comfortable  arraoKemeat  of 
nmbrelfas,  books,  mspi^  nnd  prnvivion*.  Tlii-  latter  tisunlly 
conHuitcd  of  •  baitket  of  bread,  meat,  biaouit«,  wine,  and 
fruit,  provided  before  starling,  with  Liebig^'fl  extract  of  meat, 
•  little  of  whii'h  mnkoe  bad  »oup  goodrBnda  bottle  of  Dunn's 
extract  of  colfoo  which  tranitforina  any  kind  of  milk,  cow's, 
sheep's,  goat's,  or  camel's,  into  good  coffee.  At  nmv  or  ten 
we  stopped  for  breakfast,  which  can  be  obtained  anywhere, 
if  the  tiavellcr  is  contented  with  milk,  bread,  butter,  eggs, 
and  honey.  Th<'re  i*  an  Exlrait  de  Cafe  Maka  to  Iw  found 
in  all  French  town*.  Then  the  journey  is  resumed,  and  at 
twelve  or  one  the  principal  stoppage  of  the  day  takes  place 
for  the  dinner  of  the  driver  and  of  nis  honN«. 

If  the  IravclIcT  winhes  to  make  a  solid  lunch  hu  can  do 
•o,  if  be  is  satinfied  with  his  own  frugal  supplies,  the  mid- 
day rest  becomes  a  period  of  liberty,  during  which  be  can 
nnroy  all  aronnd,  nnalyKC  the  habits  and  customs  of  the 
peasantry,  study  the  a n-bi lecture  of  t.tii-ir  Ihjukiii,  farms, 
oat>buildings,  their  agricultural  operations,  and  the  loenl 
IwtftBy*  FinJdly,  if  agroeable,  and  wenthcr  permits,  he 
can  take  a  good  hygienic  walk  iu  ulvance  of  three,  four, 
or  more  miles.  When  tired  he  has  only  to  sttdown  by 
the  roadside  in  some  picturnque  nook  until  the  carriage 
orcTl4)k(«  him.  If  the  driver,  m  is  usually  the  c»sc,  rests 
for  a  couple  of  hours,  and  fonr  or  five  miles  have  been  got 
over,  it  is  nearly  three  before  the  csiriage  is  again  resuoiMl. 
To  mc  these  midday  strolls  in  advanoe  were  the  plcasantcst 


e4a 


nCAB  AND  UOeQUITO£& 


.ent,     \ 

i 


[Murt  of  th«  day's  journey.     Aft«r  Hint,  proi^ntm  is  eUkiI! 
miulc  until  fix,  nltcu  tlic  finul  i>tQ|»|>ii^  ttikm  ]>Ui;r.     TIioi 
iiofnec  diuuor,  a  nullc,  or  a  vhat  with  your  coin|>atiii)ii* 
•omo  n«R  u<H)uuiiiliitu:i;,  a  cap  of  t«>,  snil  an  wrly  reli 
tnent  for  the  night. 

The  day's  progrommo  CAD  he  varltx)  acoording:  to  Ota 
wiahm  or  t)i«  tnivi'ller,  to  health  retjuirenieDla,  nnil  time. 
For  insUince,  the  tirsl  start  roft)-  only  bo  niad«  altvr  wt 
earlv'  breakfimt,  and  the  final  stoppago  may  Iw  matU 
earlier  or  lirtor.  A»  ulroudy  ittAtod  tho  Iruvelli-r  miiKt  r». 
AKinber  tliut  ihv  driver  ia  in  bis  pay,  and  l>ounil  to  eulnnit 
to  any  r<Ki»onab1e  dtitn»n<I  coDsUtL-Dt  with  liis  agrcentent, 
although  moet  ret/nrini  nill,  it'  alluwcd,  try  to  mako  tti 
will  and  cotiveiiienc«  tho  rntc. 

WliL-n  tlic  aontli  of  Europe  is  reached  in  the  aiitn 
two  great  plagues  bare  to  bo  cnooualcied — tlciw  and  mi 
quitoes.     For  the  foraiur  thvrv  in  un  Admirable  reine<ly 
rntnce  and  Italy  with  whicli  1  abould  advise  tmvi.'lkT»  to 

Jroviile  themEvlvc*  from  n  cbcinial^viis.,  "la  Pomln^ 
naeciicide,"  our  Persian  Powder.  A  dessert -spoonful,  mon 
or  let*,  according;  to  the  number  of  one's  foos,  sprinkled 
over  tlie  sheets,  if  the  powder  i*  frcwb  und  good,  lius  an 
■dmirable  eOect.  In  the  morning  tboy  are  found  lying  oa 
their  biiekf,  either  dead  or  faintly  etruggliug,  and  utterly 
I)ow«rlfKK  ;  »  very  pleasing  sight. 

Thiit  powder  is  c»nipc<«ed  of  the  flovret«  of  a  Pyre- 
tlirum,  extensively  eutlivuu-d  iu  Persia,  Armenia,  and  the 
Caucasus.  Stiveral  speciee  of  the  Pyrelhrum  are  taed, 
but  that  of  the  Cancasus  is  the  l>e«t;  it  was  tnlrodHoed 
into  France  about  the  year  1K5(>  by  M.  Willemot.  Stocft 
then  he  ban  procured  the  sc«d  from  the  Caucasus,  and  bos 
raivvil  the  plant,  which  proves  quite  hsrdy,  and  able  t» 
Ktond  our  winters.  The  xpceies  thus  luised  appearing  to 
dilfer  from  that  provtuusly  known,  it  bus  Ikvii  named. 
Pyrethrum  ^^'illemoti.  The  flowers,  uhieh  resemble  tboM 
of  the  ox-eye  daisy,  are  cut  otT,  powdered  in  a  mortar,  nod 
preserved  in  well-corked  bottles.  It  i>  said  to  be  efficacious 
against  all  kinds  of  insecta  offensive  to  tnan,  but  to  him  it 
is  perfectly  inuoongus. 

Moa^uitoos  arc  more  difficult  to  deal  wttb,  and  much 


VC^QUirO   cmtTAlNB.  641 

won  venomODS  antavoniats.  The  higher  we  are  the  less 
numerous  we  find  them,  so  wo  are  recompensed,  in  one 
seme,  for  climbing  up  to  a  third  or  fourth  storey.  It  is 
well  to  remember,  also,  that  light  attracts  them,  and  not 
to  opeu  the  window  at  dark  whilst  there  is  a  light  in  the 
room ;  not  until  the  latter  has  been  extinguished. 

Where  there  are  net  mosquito- curtains,  as  iu  India,  it  is 
easy  to  keep  mosquitoes  at  baj,  but  they  are  seldom  met 
with;  the  curtains  are  mostly  open,  or  so  heavy  tbat  if 
closed  the  inmate  is  hair-suSbcated.  Although  mosquitoes 
are  numerous  on  the  Riviera,  the  bed-cnrtaiDs  are  as  defec- 
tive there  as  elsewhere.  It  is  quite  worth  while  therefore 
for  those  who  suffer  from  them,  and  especially  for  invalids, 
to  have  at  once,  on  arriving,  bed-curtains  made  of  net, 
closed  all  round.  They  admit  of  the  free  passage  of  air, 
and  as  they  are  lilted  up  bodily  at  the  side,  they  can  be 
thoroughly  closed  again,  and  these  vile  pests  can  be  kept  at 
bay ;  then  their  war-song  on  the  outside  is  heard  with 
pleasure  instead  of  dread.  The  mssquito  belongs  to  the  same 
family  as  our  gnat  {Culicet).  The  sting  is  most  venomous 
to  newcomers  from  the  north.  Once  a  thorough  inoculation 
has  taken  place  the  bites  ceasing  to  be  so  venomous,  travel- 
lers suffer  much  less,  or  not  at  all,  the  second  year. 

Mosquitoes  continue  venomous  in  the  south  as  long  as 
the  nights  are  warm  ;  the  advent  of  cold  nights  in  No- 
vember seems  gradually  to  take  away  their  power  of  in- 
flicting injury.  I  have  observed  the  same  thing  in  England; 
for  insects  exactly  like  the  southern  mosquitoes  abound  in 
wooded  districts  in  the  south  of  England.  In  cool  summers, 
however  numerous,  tliey  seldom  or  never  bite,  but  in  hot 
summers  their  venom  is  elaborated,  and  they  become  nearly 
as  formidable  as  those  of  the  Medit-erranean  shores.  The 
warmer  the  autumn  is  in  the  south  the  longer  they  remain 
in  the  ascendant;  nothiug  but  really  cold  nights  chills 
their  ardour.  Those  who  keep  their  bedroom  warm  may 
have  them  as  companions  all  winter,  for  they  both  feed 
at  their  host's  expense,  and  are  protected  from  cold. 

Whether  the  invalid  is  leaving  the  north  of  Europe  for 
the  south  in  autumn,  or  the  south  of  Europe  for  the  north 
in  spring,  I  firmly  believe  that  it  is  essential  for  his  welfare^ 

I  T 


642      THE    RETURN    FROM  THE  MED (T ERR A^' EXIT. 

that  llio  journey  cboiiUI  not  bo  too  hnrriod,  tno  predp4t«te, 
T)»e  difTereuce  of  climate,  between  the  north  anil  Mnth  of 
Eurc'pc,  is  60  trrcat,  Ibiit  th^re  Is  absolute  danger  in  too 
eudik-ti  n  tniiiFitiun. 

I  aee  this  fact  exeniplifieil  every  year,  both  in  iitittimo 
and  ^in^.  Jlailurays  have  all  Uit  aDuihiUted  space,  and 
th«  racilitin  tltvy  aSbnt  to  ntpid  travelling  aro  so  threat 
thai  a  traveller  may  luavo  the  London  Uri<J^>  Hlalion  at 
7.40  on  &Ion<Uy  morDing,  by  mail  tnun  for  hiria,  and  be 
at  Nico  or  Mcntone  for  fiii|>{M;r  the  following  day,  Toea- 
dity.  UtifoTtuiuitely,  invnlidM  ntv  not  unfretiuently  tomptcd 
to  adont  this  "cannoD^ball  style  of  travelling,"  as  I  oall 
it,  and  often  pay  a  wvero  penalty  for  so  doinj;.  Thu  trao- 
fitiou  from  the  coo),  moint  elimutc  of  Kntiftand  or  Paris 
in  autumn,  to  the  dry,  eunny,  etimulatiug  atmoephere 
of  tlio  north  shorex  of  the  MeditcrrnDvan,  ia  loo  Buddvn, 
and  di^velopes  vurioits  forms  of  liver,  intestinal,  akin,  and 
head  di:>ease.  Tho  same  results  foltovr  in  spring,  on  the 
return  journey.  Every  sprint*  *he  Paris  pliysiciaits  tell  roe 
that  tlioy  haw  to  ntt«nd  miiny  {Kitiviitx,  who,  after  npf ndiiig 
the  winter  in  the  south,  breuk  down  with  bronchitis, 
pleurisy,  rheumatism,  after  a  rapid  return  journey  to  I'nris 
early  in  the  sprin;;,  and  from  the  Mme  cause,  a  too  sudden 
cliangc  of  el i mate. 

A  leisurely  progress,  both  in  descending  south  and 
BBoending  north,  in  tho  mo«t  prudent  course  to  follow,  Wth 
for  inviilids  and  for  the  tounil.  On  the  one  hand  they 
avoid  needless  fatigue,  on  the  other  they  uvoid  a  too  eudden 
transition  from  one  decided  climate  to  another.  The  journey 
should  be  considered  and  made  a  short  pleasure  tour, 

THR   RKTDKN    PBOU   TUK    U KOITBItRAMKUf. 

When  the  return  homewards  has  been  decided  upon, 
there  is  an  all  hut  universal  wisli  on  the  {uil  of  the  iovalida 
to  join  sound  friends,  and  to  make  a  tour  on  the  wtir. 
Many  years'  experience,  however,  has  convinced  mo  that  it 
is  impoFsihIe  cBVetmilly  to  pursue  health  and  plenauro  at 
thu  Nime  time.  I  am  persuade<l  tliat  no  greater  mistoka 
can  be  made  tlian  to  endeavour  to  combine  sightseeing 
eitlier  with  wintering  uhroad  for  hndtli^or  with  tJie  journej 


J 


» 


THE  RETCRN    PROM   TUB   MEDITERllAXEAN.      G43 

to  «ad  from  th«  eonth.  In  othor  wonU,  real  inrnlit'c 
shotiUI  never  ncfompaiij-  utroiig,  iicalthy,  sisrliUei-ing  I'lteDda 
or  n.-lutive»  in  their  pli^utire  tours ;  they  tlicmselvM  ehouM 
be  the  main  considenitiun.  They  should,  b«  iilready«tuleti, 
neither  atu-t  too  tnly  nor  too  lat»,  Rbuut  the  aecond  weeic 
in  October,  go  direct  to  their  destination  by  easy  stageft, 
reaching  aWut  llio  last  week  of  OotoWr,  ami  relnrn  honio 
qui«lly  when  thu  iine  weuthor  ii  ihorotiglily  esULlislicd, 
towards  the  middle  or  end  of  May.  And  yel  nearly  all  fall 
into  the  contrary  error,  cspcciiiiry  on  the  return  journey. 
A*  Koou  UK  Miiroh  coincK,  the  wildest  tmvellini;  \>\»ns  are 
fornieil — ollen  by  llie  sreatcst  sufferers.  The  ol)ject  is  tJlo 
restless  An};lo-S»xon  desiro  to  bi-o  the  world  on  the  way 
borne ;  the  rc«tilt  is  to  bring  the  inviiUd  into  every  kind  of 
daniter,  and  not  unfretiueiitly  to  undo  all  the  ^ood  gained 
in  the  winter. 

A  very  pleaaant  lounging  boroewnrd  jaun)ey  may  bu 
made  through  the  sontli  of  Franco,  with  little  or  no  riak 
ftft«r  the  middle  of  May,  when  the  mistral  biis  abnted,  but 
suck  a  journey  by  no  means  •atiaflea  the  majority  of  our 
invalid  ncll-n^ad  countrymen  and  countrywomen.  Natu- 
rally enough  it  is  Italy  they  sigh  for,  Italy  they  nrant  to 
see:  (tenoa,  Florence,  Kome,  Milan,  Venice,  the  glorious 
Italian  lakes,  and  the  grand  Swiss  mountains,  with  their 

Slaciers,  their  torrents,  and  their  pine  forests;  lieneo  tho 
anger.  The  unwholexome  towns  I  have  described,  tl)« 
snow-covered  parses  of  tho  Alps,  are  pregnant  witli  danger, 
fend  should  be  avoided  by  the  diseased,  nnlll  they  hiive  re- 
gained heiilth,  and  ean  once  more  defy  the  elementn. 

A  delightful  and  perfectly  safe  journey  may,  however, 

btt  made  in  April,  by  those  who  aro  sufficiently  Etrong  and 

well  to  eiiduro  the  futigue  of  tmvcllin^,  along  botli  Rivieras 

.  to  Genoa  and  Pisa;  from  Leghorn  direct  by  sea  to  Mnr- 

[•cillcH;  or  through  Corsica,  by  Biwtia  and  Ajaccio,  to  Mar> 

[Seilles,  or  byOenua,  Milan,  and  the  Mont  ('enia  Tunnel. 

I      Corsica  alone  may  be  easily  visited  by  way  of  Ni«  or 

Genoa,  and  Sicily  is  aUo  a^^i'Siiiblv  fr<mi  Marseilles  or  from 

(jcnoa.     For  the  delailn  of  the  iniirneya  to  Cor»ic«  and 

Sicily  I  must  refer  to  the  special  cfaapters  on  those  ooiintne* 

T  T  a 


644      TOE  RETXJKN  FBOH  THE  H£D^TERRA^'GA!f. 

wbioh  I  havo  vUiUsl  in  this  iovsltd  manner,  with 
givat  profit  and  <lL-light. 

The  eafiiest  and  safest  return  pleasure  journey  in  *priitg, 
bowovvr,  is  tJio  one  alon<;  the  Kiviera.  Kven  a  confirmed 
invalid  may  prudently,  tonnnlti  tlio  middiv  of  April  or  ttl« 
ket^iDntiiit  of  May,  travel  slowly  by  carriage  to  Genoa ;  re* 
tnraini;  the  eame  way,  or  taking  the  Mount  CenU  1\innel. 
1  have  travelled  many  timen  by  t\m  route  in  *p"'>n'  *i"^ 
have  always  ((Katly  enjoyed  its  exquisite  seenery,  atid  tliat 
without  the  least  futi$;nc. 

On  n  eiilm  day  in  iipring  the  «en  journey  from  Nioo  to 
Qeum  only  takes  a  few  houro,  aut)  is  very  enjoyalile,  Uie 
steamer  skirting  the  bn£e  of  msgniliceDt  mountains  all  th^i 
way.     Aa  ilu-re  are  now  bfnitei  every  other  day  each  way,  ^H 
is  alwiiys  feasible  to  wait  for  fine  weaUier.  ^H 

In  L'oncludin^r,  1  would  rqwat  the  advice  already  fjivett 
in  various  part«  of  this  work.  Real  invalids,  suriously  ill, 
should  malce  uo  experiments,  and  sho^dd  avoid  all  health 
residences  where  they  cannot  enjoy  every  ]>(t»ible  comfort 
which  the  state  of  their  health  may  render  necessary  ; 
they  are  not  the  iteople  who  oiii;lit  to  briuk  tjimv  ground. 
This  advice  may  be  extended  to  those  who,  att)i<iu)*h  eujoy- 
ini;  health,  loave  Knt^liind  for  the  fin>t  time,  and  are  not 
itceiwtomed  to  foreign  ways  and  manners,  and  who  are 
cu»se(|uently  very  wedded  to  English  habits. 

Doth  three  elusiws  of  winter  cmi^anls  are  beet  in  those 
partx  I'f  the  Continent  which  thu  Knglish  hare  long  fre- 
qui-nted,  and  which  have  thus  been  moulded  to  Knglish 
tast«8  and  requircmentit.  There  may  l>e  eome  little  advan> 
tage,  in  an  economical  point  of  view,  in  goin<;r  t"  hitherto 
nntroUden  regions,  but  it  must  be  lemeinliered  tliat 
economy  on  tlic  Continent  is  invariably  connected  nnth 
the  sbseDOo  of  the  comforts  and  deeencioi  of  life  to  which 
we,  as  a  nation,  are  occuatomed.  The  more  comfortable, 
the  olouier,  tlie  more  Knglish,  in  a  word,  a  place  beuomea, 
the  more  cxpcnuive  it  also  bccomcM.  >r<)rcover,  the  further 
we  go  from  home  the  greater  the  fatigue  and  expense  of 
the  journey,  and  the  more  diiGcult  it  is  to  |;et  back,  ones 
arrived  at  tlic  de«tinjtioii. 

i  have  reserved  for  ttie  end  of  this  book  an  extract  from 


8m  JAUES  CLARK  0}f   BRALTn   TRAVELLING.    645 

tta  tTMtiee  of  ray  Ut«  otrteemed  and  regretted  friend.  Sir 
Janw  Clark,  on  "The  Sanative  Intluenre  of  Climate." 
Althoajc'i  it  Arst  appeared  many  years  nqn  it  still  relnins 

»ita  position  as  a  vnlunliU;  work  on  cliniiitv,  and  aiiv  advice 
it  «ontjiinN  deccrvua  to  be  weij^lied  and  pondered  by  all 
whom  it  may  concern  : — 

"  'I'oo  macb  is  (jonGrnlly  expected  from  tlie  simplu  chaiii^ 

of  elinuiW.     It  olU'n  Iia]ipeni<  iliat  from  the  moment  ttie 

invalid  lias  decided  upon  making  sudi  a  cliange,  hia  hopM 

^bH«  fixed  solely  upon  it;  while   other    drcutnstaiie>^,  not 

^Bbm  cnential  to  hin  recovery,  are  c(iiisi<lcrcd  of  H00i>n(iary 

^■Uaportanoft,  and  »ometiinee  totally  neglected      Tbis  is  an 

^" error   not  always  confined  to  Uie   patient;    hie   medical 

advieor  frequently  partictpnUss  in  it:  oor  ia  tbis  diflicull  to 

be  acconntvd   for.     Tlie  cavca  hitJiorto    Kent  abroad  have 

been,  i'or  the  most  part,  conaumptirc.  or  other  dificases  of 

long  Kt»ndin»,  in  which   the  ordinary  n»K>urcc«  o\'  our  art 

'bavc  tailed;  therefore,  when  change  of  climate  has  at  laitt 

been  det«riinut>d  upon,  the  |))tydtciati,  at)  vvoll  lu  the  jiatient, 

ia  disposed  to  look  upon  it  aa  the  sole  remedy. 

"But  aa  I  have  witncssi;d  on  a  pretty  extensive  scale 

■the  injury  uriaiiig  from  ttii»  over>oonBdeno«  in  the  unaided 
etfecU  ol*  climate,  and  the  conaequent  neglect  of  other| 
ttstter;  of  no  less  consequence,  I  particular^'  request  iJia 
attention  of  invalidii  to  llie  following  remurlcs. 

1"  In  the  IJrat  place,  1  would  strongly  advise  ev«ry  jx-rson 
^ho  poce  aliroad  for  the  recovery  of  his  benttb,  whatever 
^ay  be  hi«  dismsc  or  to  what  climate  soever  ho  may  go, 
to  oonaidcr  the  change  an  placing  bim  merely  in  a  more 
tavourahle  situation  for  the  removal  of  hi«  disuuKe ;  in  (iict, 
to  bear  constantly  in  mind,  that  the  bencficiul  inlluence  of 
t^avdliiig,  of  (Uiiling,  and  of  elimati.-,  ri'xguircrs  to  he  .tided 
by  such  a  dietetic  regimen  and  general  mode  uf  living,  snd 
by  Eucl)  remedial  measures,  as  would  have  hccu  reijiti^iie 
in  his  case  had  he  remained  in  his  own  cuimtry.  All  the 
circuraataaoeii  requiring  attention  Irom  the  invalid  at  home 
should  Ik  equally  attended  to  abroad.  If  in  some  thingti 
grmter  latitude  may  be  permitted,  others  will  demand  even 
a  more  rigid  attention.  It  ia,  in  truth,  only  by  a  due  re- 
gard  to  all  tltu«e  circumatanocs,  that  the  powcra  of  the 


'C46  SIR  JAMBS  CLAHK  ON   UBALTH  TRAVEIXINO. 

oonatitiilioi)  cnn  bo  enablud  to  tliron-  off,  or  crcn  mnti-riall; 
mitinto,  in  the  bwt  cliiDatc,  a  diiease  of  Ions  standing. 

"  II  may  appear  etranfre  that  1  eboald  think  it  requuit« 
to  iuflift  Eu  Btroii)*!}'  on  the  nFO»«ity  of  attvntjon  to  thcM 
directions ;  but  I  huvi!  witii«io«d  the  injurious  efieotM  of  a 
ne^lwt  of  thcni  too  ofUn,  not  to  de«in  eiich  ivmarka  called 
for  ill  this  ]>lac«.  It  viste,  indeed,  matter  of  nurprlM  to  mc, 
diiriiii;  my  reudcnoe  abfMid,  lo  nbitcTve  tbc  manner  in 
which  niiiny  invulidii  ieemed  U>  loae  sight  of  the  object  for 
which  th«v  left  tlieir  own  oounlry,— th*  recoveiy  of  thoir 
hvnlth.  'this  appeared  to  arwe  ebiefly  from  too  mo 
U'iiiir  (jxp<"uted  from  climate. 

"The  more  common  and  more  iojurioiH  derintious  fr< 
that  system  of  living  which  tin  inralid  ought  to  adopts 
oonsiKt  ill  crrui-a  of  diet;  (!X|K>eure  to  cold,  ov«r-fatigu 
and  oxcil«ment  iit  wliiit  is  culled  '  sight-seeing ;'  frequent^'* 
JDg  cnnvded  and  over- healed  rooms;  kcepinj;  late  nour«, 
&c.  Mi)ny  ouaee  (ell  under  my  obeert-ation,  in  vrhicb 
climate  promised  the  ;;ra>tv«t  Mrastaee,  but  where  ita 
K'nctkial  iiillituiicn  wnit  cciunteraet«d  by  the  inJurioBt^ 
cperutionof  these  oatisus." 


ugxKvrAiiD  uocsiti. 


INDEX. 


ADOUB,   lini,   aouik  of  FniMe, 
•07 
Adriitia  Mt,  tht,  2S8 
^dTsiiMre.  >  diJigeasa,  S88 
Agtd,   Ute,   thriv*  OB  llw  Bivisn, 

lei 
Agiiolltiut  u  Spais,  SflS 
„  in  Suilj,  437 

ID  AJgaria,  U4,  U7 
Aidin,  town  sKr  EphMii^  578 
AJMCio,  town  0^  SfiS 

,,      u  ■  winter  (Mtiaa,  US 
AlbanUu  monolnina,  2S1 
Akautarjaaetion,  Bpaia,  2fl4 
Algien,  citj  of,  4S3 
Alfterik,  geognphj,  g«lag7,  523 

„      otiiule  of,  580 
Alicuil«,  town  of,  2M 
Aloe,  33-103 
Alps,  erondDg  Ike,  600 
Aniuon  Tkllof,  nodi  from,  73-74 
Amieni,  flinl  wnpooi  at,  S8 
Anoonii,  eity  of,  280 
Apenaines,  partial  pralWlioD  of,  4 
Aquarium,  MeotODO,  132 
Aqna  Kaw  mine  in  t^anjinia,  477 
Arabia  in  the  rainlen  traot,  72 
Arab  oamp  and  tant,  Algeria,  fiSS 
Arata,  ooiuadio,  S02,  526-US 
Araaouia  siodaa,  110,  114,  48S 
Arbotiu,  the,  36 
ArcaeboD,  aitoation,  6)4 

„        piue  ronat*  and  olimate  at, 

615 
Arcbipelago,  Gredan,  311 
Arehitcotara,  Siealo-NorBan,  424 
Ardoino'a   "  Plore  dea  Alpca  Hari- 

timea,"  87 
ArgtliDBa,  fountain  of,  452 
Annand,  Dr.,  work  on  Algaria,  SM 
Amo,  the  riTar,  214 
Aniila,  inralid^  200 


Aata  Ulmt,  E74 
Aapleniam  adiantam  a.  (tern,  36 
„         Cetsractua,  36 
.,         TrichODianea,  36 
Aathtaa   at   Hautona  and    on    Uia 

BiTien,  1S9 
Athoni,  litoa^oB,  nioa,  804 

„       le^etatioD  and  climate,  305 
„       wind  taw«r,  88 
Atlaa  HOent  of,  547 

„     ranga^  523 
Auttnlia,  a  wiutor  refuge,  80 
Aovergaa,  aitiiKt  voleanoea,  46 
Awe  I«ci^  fialuag  in,  6DG 


BALAOHA,  fartila,  in  Conioa,  342 
Balkan  moDotaiiB,  tbe,  320 
Baltio,  opbeanl,  Frofeiaor  Bogen, 

43 
Banana,  Ucntona,  Algieia,  110 
Baron,  a  Qermau,  414 
Batting,  aea,  Biairiti,  008 

„  ,,     ArcaoLon,  61G 

Barometer,  foretelli  stormi,  213 
Baatia,  toWD  of,  337,  305 
Bavena,  l«ke  Harare,  5SS 
Bedrtwm,  TBntilalion  of,  108 
Bellafrgio,  la-ke  Coma,  507 
Beilioi  Oardeni  at  Calania,  448 
Benedictine*,  Sidly,  424 
Beoitia,  CorfB  Tillage,  207 
Berben,  or  Kabjlei,  50S--5BG,  530 
Bercean'i  Katare'a  HygroniBter,  76 
Berkeley  Sqnara,  the  planes  in.  31 
Biarriti,  aitoation,  climate  of,  604 
,,      aea  bathing^  60S 
„       Tegetation,  elimat^  611 
Birdi  on  tbe  Einiera,  144 

,,     on  Mount  Atla^  543 
Biieay,  Bay  o^  007 
Black  Be*,  the,  S27 


^1        648                                        XNBBX. 

^ft      BlMfcbmr.  H  «T» 

CkrfMiw  Qmk  etk>r.  Cmi^  Ml 

^H       Blidah.  in  Algeria.  939 

.  arnbal  at  HMHOoa,  MS 

^B        BouinfadfutMU,  l«T 

Ckraxiba  tm  at  Hwloiw,  U 

^H                „      in  luliu  Ukc*,  JS7,  EST 

„       alwcbin,  SOS,  >M 

^■^        .,      in  Stolch  Uke^  Ml 

Gtrtbaet,  twin*  ot,  ATI 

^^^^KSoiria,  orOkbrulo  tallqr.  ISt 

(knbagnt,  aitj  of,  310 

^^^^^oloffOk.  eit:r  «(.  333 

GaiT*!*,  Dr,  (Snato  of  Kaly.  314 

^^^^■Sninbjx  ptWcuiooU  DMt^  SS 

OuTticai  U  Mialaas.  ISI 

^^^^BK«i>i&aa,t«wnMidilnllai>r,lftl,  459 

GhMUaoda.  |itiii*wtia>7,  88S 

^^^^OM>k-«lab,  Uraloa^  100 

Owilao  at  HtoloDc,  IVt 

^^^■B«k^  Owdol,  Muont  Kim,  443 

„     al  Monaoe,  ITS 

OMiacDinii.  tb«.  Cwm^  374 

^^^^^■Boiphariu,  Uia  Thr»cl*n,  337 

OuMlton,  tSIio  (<  187 

^^^^^1  SotauliU.  rooant*  fur,  SI 

OhUI^  New.  ubU^aad  of,  271 

^^^■BoDoloTiltM,  106,  4S4 

OMaalii,  «ltj  in  Sidlj,  440 

^^^^nanUcr  drift  •*  M^nton^  41 

Oannt  in  Itawum  t«At,  ID 

^^^^rBrt***,  U..  nialMrvltifkid  UiiUt,  018 

„      lUUctiUk  Cwaloa.  300 

^           BmH*.  IadiI  KQil  Ma,  SS 

0*TMk  B«D%  Mininnt.  (B                 ^H 

^H            BriJf,  k  SioiUan,  4C9 

Oadar  fbnat.  Mwai  AiU«.  £40        ^H 

^H          Bripudi,  id  AtUra,  S09 

IMU*  ooidaaialti  me,  SlU             ^H 

^H                          ill  Cinica,  SSI 

Oilia,  flint  ww^ooa  dL  M              ^H 

^B         Btitand,  ■  OL>ruc«ii  itorj,  354 

0*u*l*>7,  llMMna,  107                   ^H 

^H          Brindltl,  («vn  of,  -JIO 

Craii.  Monnt,  paHlng,  £00              ^^M 

^K^^  BroDcbitlt,  OD  Rirltn,  IK 

tUDMl,  003                     ^H 

^^^KXroon,  tlM  rrrrklj,  SS 

Oefhalania,  lulaoii  of,  S03                        ' 

^^^^^■SuoiDtro.  Albkuiui  Tiling  291 

Ocr'auMi.  MlclMl,  b«iu«  «f,  tH 

^^^™  Bnlfiria,  Sse 

Oi*t»r«oli  forn,  36 

1                 Boll'figbtUUund^  SiO 

Cejlun.  1,  lilantn-,  4t3 

I                 Bureau,  Anbc,  the,  83^ 

Cliaiua-M,-,  [.Im.  110,  347,  BIS^  ■«       1 

Buritoa,  tily  of.  28B 

Chugs,  lliB  loTc  o(,  300                   ^H 

BuriiJ,  tarlj,  not  tlio  !>*,  1ft7 

Citanulcrialin  of  Iliricn,  31            ^H 

ClnMnoM,  til*  Oiaaidc  01               ^H 

Cbary bilia  and  Ssjrlla,  4U                 ^H 

flABROL^  cr  B«lri(;  T»U«r  «f.  183 
v;    CmUcw  «a  tbs  Rlflnm,  lOA 

Chdlinibu*  odorni  fera,  37     ^^^^H 

CkoJiff,  Tallcj,  riw,  B4S,  Mi^^^H 

CSiUui.  dlj  orSmllDU,  481 

CfaoMftOl  ln«a  in  Oon4«,  S41<^^^H 

CW)  Uinr*  >t  AlgKn.  BOS 

UhUiari,  Mvn  at  311                     ^H 

Ouqtu,  Ca(isl&nliDci{i)«  UmI,  32S 

Cbi&,  gorft  of,  AlgftM.  640    ^^^H 

(Wabrian  msutiuin*,  4MI 

Childrm,  on  BlTwra,  101          ^^^^H 

Chin,  ioa-n  of  Canjc*.  VTO 

Cbina,  (taev  ialand  «f,  SIT            ^^^^H 

Ounelliu  on  Ritiet*.  1Ut> 

Cborna  al  M>la^  J8U             ^^^H 

„          OD  L*ti*  Camo,  SM 

unknown  at  M«nWn«,  ITS  ^H 

CMiD«ii,  (Utiun  uf.  V3-i 

ClinnaaUsniam  un  Kin*r^  14(        ^H 

Chndii,  •bandontd  bjr  !■»)>«,  SIS 
CNpc  of  Sood  Hoiw  la  *loUr,  Si 

Chnnhcs  BaglUb,  Uoniono,  107      ^H 

Cintan,  ifa^  HSo*,  »S                      ^M 

Q^iiUui  T«n«ril  bm,  34 

dannrin  auritioa,  3S,  104              ^H 

(Vnl*,  tiliind  ftf,  33K  45S 

Omm,  ibe^  3&                               ^H 

Ckjirara,  QaribaUi  at.  457 

Clftin  TaoAla,  oitj,  Uatto,  4««       ^M 

Oapri,  Ittand  of,  334 

ClaA,  air  J.,  aduio*  lo  iiialiil^  tii^^t 

Chf  tain,  •  •bipBTwIicil,  ASi 

molMnJtpcal    labt«^H 

CWrabanl,  Ntc*.  ■helieml,  (4 

Oil                                                         } 

Chratm,  AnW  and  caiu*^  B38 

Olaarni^  atmnapborio,  M«nl«M,  74         I 

Omtaanil,  a,  is  Alcana  A48 

Clotbioff,  *aro,  in  aoMti,  SO            ^^M 
Uvflaa  plaoUr,  a,  C*)rl«e,  413         ^H 

Curi,  nlltj  at  thnum,  Ul 

INDEX. 


649 


aionirta  b  AlRtri*.  G21,  GG7 
Colnmbtii,  CbriatT.,  bonae  o^  290 
OoatoriM,   Bogliih,  expeuuTS,   198, 

448 
Como,  Uks,  olimate  of,  G97 
Conglaawnitci  kt  Heotone,  41 
CoDifan,  HsntoDe,  37 
„       Coraiea,  S4S 
Conjnrar,  fekU  of  ■  negro,  508 
Conaerr^torj  ptuiti  in  Engbutd,  89 
Corutuiimople,  dtj  of,  821 
CoDTicts,  coloDj  or,  Cuabiuidk,  398 
CoDiict  loldien  in  AI(;eri<,  &44 
Cork  tree,  thg,  29 
Oopper  mine*,  Caniea,  STT 
COTdilleru,  tha,  inflaeniM  of,  73 
Cordon,  io-wa  of,  ud  cathednj,  276 
Corfu,  town  ud  uUoil,  29G 
Cornioe,  Kivion  TOkd,  9 
Coronvik,  tbc,  SS 
Conia,  grognpbj,  geologr  of,  S31 
„       oomoiuDiution     with    eoa- 

tinent,  3G7 
Cono,  eiLpe,  road,  Corria,  8S0 
Carta,  town  of,  Corww,  S7T 
Coatnmes  in  Alglera,  498 

„        in  Spain, 
CoDrmnjeor,  gnind  rammer,  91 
CreticeoD*  rocki,  Meatune,  41 
Cmilacea  kt  Mgnlona,  140 
Cattls  Sab,  kj^  136 
Cjcladei,  the,  archipelago,  311 
Cjrclanien,  tha,  in  Corsio,  387 
Pfpi'SBa,  pjnimidftl,  CooatauUnople, 

32G 
Cf  liaui,  the,  3G 


DARCIira,  K&b;1e  girl,  S07 
Daaabs,   relura   bj  >t«uner, 
827 
Dujlirin,  Algisn,  113.  GIS 
Deprwaion  in  bad  weatber,  79 
Derriahea.  rilea  of,  Algeria,  G09 
Deaert,  Algeriae,  G24 

„       Sahara,  G47 
DoTil  Sih,  the,  13S 
Dej'a  palace,  Algien,  G38 
Diana,  lampla  of,  Bpheana,  G78. 
Diliganoea,  Spaniah,  2SS 

„        adTonturt^  Coniaa,  3SS 
Daga,  good  pbyaiogoomiMa,  412 
Dookeja,  doukej  women,  18G 
Di«inage  of  Medit«reaiieaa  towni,.  lU 


DrajaoD,  Col.,  on  gladal  pvrlod,  4S 
Drirea  at  Hentona,  174 
DiTDess,  aniiimeT,inMediteiniiean,78 
Dnndaa  on  malaria,  37S 
Djaantery  abaant  at  Uentone,  172 
„        &eqnsDt  at  Naples,  222 
Dfipepna  on  Bifiera,  1  SO 


EABtnQUAKBS  at  GaUnia,  437 
Barthquakoa  at  Ueaaina,  428 
Baae  aod  digoitji  iti<»mpBtib1a,  IGl 
Education  at  Mentoae,  200 

,,        in  Italr,  248 
Bgjpt,  temperatDTe,  Upper,  S29 
Elba,  laland  of,  Napoleon  at,  SSG 
Elefae,  town  and  palm  forat,  266 
Eldondo,  not  in  Uediterranean,  88 
Klijah  the  prophet,  69 
Kngadin,  the  rallej  of,  98 
Bngiuoers,  English,  410 
Eaitland,  olimate  of,  moiat,  64 

„        beat  European  anmmer  cli- 
mate, 01 
„       low  night-temperatun,  S27 
Eocaaa  formaU<iD,  Mentone,  41 

„      period  at  Mentone,  42 
Ephecoa,  raina  of,  377 
Equinoiea,  HHd/  aaaaon,  Kiriera,  70 
Erica  arboisa  on  Uediterranean,  Sfl 

„     eallaoa,  liog  beatber,  SS 
Eaa,  Tillage  of,  187 
Eatcrel  moontaina,  tba^  17G 
Etna,  Mount,  aacendon  of,  448 
„        „       haaeof,  438 
„        „       Caaa  del  Bowio,  448 
„        ,,      ValdelBoie,  444 
Bnealjptaa  global  na,  114 
Baphorbia,  ibnibbj  at  Mentone,  25 
EiconiDni  at  Mentone,  174 
Eierciae  in  icTilidiam,  ISO 


FAIRS,  Arab,  in  Kabjlia,  587 
Parm,  a  Trappiat,  Algeria,  G17 
Paro  ligbthonae,  Meuina,  428 
Perm  at  Meotone,  30 

„     in  Algeria,  G41 

„     in  Sardinia,  479 
Fertility  of  aonthtm  Bitrope,  454 
PeTor,  in  Aaia  Minor,  579 

„      in  Conica,  376.  894 

„     in  Sardinia,  470 

„    jnalarioni^  at  Hentone,  171    - 


H                                                       ^^^1 

^B       Pam,  tyitnii.  flO,  SflT 
^H       Vfawlo,  toni  of,  S18 

Qiaciai  rMfad.  Mm, II,  «a     '^^H 

OUAm.  anCddoiu  of,  «i                 ^^M 

^H       Vb«i^aita]M^m 

Ghildoii  Horn,  CoulaBliDupW,  Ml     ^^| 

^H        Fbw  aad  SkmciI,  IteRtMM,  14 

Ooif  Juan,  ne                          ^M 

U«rUo,  a  ndunlain  vlUan  )89  ^H 
OoDton  Klrirn.  16G                              ^^H 

^V         Fuhiuf  in  lUilUn  Ukw.  US 

^1              „      Bt  MeuloBa^  132 

Oniamilit  fprn,  37                                 ^^^| 

^H               „      iR  StMluid,  C9I 

Oruada,  civ  H  ithiaabfn,  SS4^^^^| 

^H          Flea  povder,  lb*  Pirniui,  CtS 

(ImUa  lecn|4M,  niti*  iiC,  SVI  ^^^^H 

^K        yiiiiU  la  IfefttoM  Bunt  (km.  SO 

Qrcek  wlon;  in  Omiea,  Ml      ^^^^1 

^H         Fltdct,  ihMp  aixl  KMU,  Ueniek,  30G 

tiiwnirlab,  ninfiil  at,  70                 ^^1 

^^P        FIdmdm^  lb«  dlj  of.  3IS 

Orcgo(v*ii'*  cm  C<iiMea,  SSO                  ^^H 

^^f         Floaei^  ■  mntulMiun  in  ill  liMlth,  6S 

Orinialdi,  (be  towtt  iif,  148  ^H 
OaaiialqiiiTir,  rallcT  sf  IIm^  S79        ^H 

^H                          C*n'«">  ■(  McutoDK  W 

^H                          wild,  M  HintMMk  tWS 

OauDO,  latbt  of.  Conica,  381  ^^t 
tiuir  atnani.  Ul^  84.  1».  131,  14S        1 

^H       Fog^  *b«iit  u  MnitoD^  TS 

^H        FMiDM  In  Sudinia,  478 

aiilla.«M,inU«liUmaMB,  I4fi      ^J 

^^H          M     ]iriiMnl,  too 

aonlbat.  Dr.,  on  WbiMl«i^  IM       ^H 

^^B                 t<»i*,  Canio,  SSI 

^^H 

^V       TMwUd(Mn>}«d,  iWiliiiU,  4TA 

^^H 

^H         Fort  N&pulKn,  KKl>}t<*.  SSfi 
^H         Frojit  tb«  grao  trt(\  144 

TT  ABKM,  a  Turtlib,  SM  ^H 
H    Uxnuii'*  1^19,  titt,  189            ^H 

^H         FraM,  bar,  in  Dncit  uf  Saban,  CSl 

U«nM,  Conioaa,  841                         ^^M 

^H         Frail  trai^  oa  Urisn,  91 

QooM,  Uw  Mom,  HO              ^^^H 

llona  at  Meotove,  184            ^^^^^H 

RiiTtloaltat*  at  Hcntoiw.  9S        ^^^i 

^B       rj  ABTA.  Ut  hm  «(  S17 
^H        \J     OamUiuB  Honnos  1TB 
^B        Gum  in  Oarain,  Mt,  HO 

lloirdn'a,  Lnd,  (aHtn,  Uaroa,  SSI 

Ujadntb,  tb«  gnp«<  3' 

^^1                    in  t<«nlinik,  481 

„        vlhl  and  enliinlH  108 

^B         Oardi,  Uiii  Uka,  401 

Hjdrta,  Hationuf,  183 

1                  Oard«iiia,  Ihr,  U'B 

IIjElAor,  lu  Uai  iRnoiwl,  914             ^M 

L                flKdon,  ct|ittlacDUl,  at  Alpen,  Ht 

Itfinimalcr*,  Iba  nomilJuiui.  T9        ^^M 

1                      „       mjr  Endith,  117 

^^H 

1                      ,.       mjr  luiiui,  110 

^H 

w^^          OnrdoiiDi;  at  MtntMW,  PS 

1  OB  al  AlE'vra  and  In  Algairia,  SM  <^l 
1    Im  at  Maiitunt^  lU,  81                ^M 

^H           tiktiUldi.  uncTiluM  uf,  323 

^H          Ueasroto,  Moatc.  for  ■umnisr,  tl 

iMJomHrtuf  Skhua,  G«l               ^H 

^H           Uraicn.  Itrwu  and  liile  tJ,  du3 

.,  in  FnleaUn*,  880                          ^M 

^H          UcD'A,  cilf  or,  lUP 

tebwRi  hi  IbB  AUuili«,  44               ^M 

^H                        tb*  golf  of.  i 

Iflcaiaa,  lawn  of,  Sardinia,  474          ^^1 

^H         OMgrmiihj,    ]ib]i*ltal,    UcatOM  and 

IgMDOi  nxba,  HraUM  4&                ^H 

^H          KiriBTs,  es 

Im|««*iMt<ii«,  tbc,  Aad«*Ma'«,  3t8  ^M 

^H        Oauloiy,  laTiruliunil.  ES 

Ind«p<sidDii«^  Oanian,  U8              ^^M 

Idd.  a  Siouisb,  180                               ^H 

^^H                      of  OraiMh  338 

Iniweu  at  Ucnlona,  IS.  77                ^H 

^H                      of  Miilt*,  iSS 

InqaUkian,  lb*,  in  Bmis,  ITT          J^H 

^^M                      III  MfnUne^  38 

Innlld*,  Sir  J.  Ctait'*  aa*in  to,  M^^ 

^^H                      sflianJiBiAa  141 

Iria,  Ilia,  at  UoatMH^  183 

^H                 «f  aisitr.  4S0 

Iron  nia,  tb«,  on  DaMb*,  8SB 

^M                      of  itpain,  -JM 

IrrtcailiHi  InBpain,  £48.  SM,  180, 188 

^H           Snothtnnal  lint  at  MeiitOM,  13 

IrtigaUsa  ta  tlt«  aoMb,  4U 

^H           Gviititit  (olliiv-Uniallcri,  4  Id 
^H          Uiaidui,  Tillap  of,  8i(il7,  433 

Ia«ll«,  anplin  mm,  tM          ^^^J 

IKDEX. 


65  r 


iKda  Bom,  Oonie^  ST7 
Italj,  CMtern,  333 
„  .  >Mtani,  207 
Italia  Uniu,  iS7,  MS,  UO 
iTj,  88 

„    Algviu.UI 

I,    Strdinuu,  479 


JAB8.ixiniBi,  hamaiibniiittUk^  SO 
JmIobij,  cbom  of  TflDdetta,  848 
Jem,  thft  in  Algeria,  SOI 
Jonrnef  lo  Msdiiemiuu,  333 

I,       tba  Tetan  to  north,  S13 
Jajnbe  Tborn,  Uw,  Algeria,  6S1 
Jnnipon,  wild,  cnltiTsted,  110 
Jaijont  moanbuoa,  ib%  623 


KABTLBS  and  Kabjlia,  603,  S30, 
est) 

Eidnejt,  diaaaaaa  of,  oa  Biriera,  181 


LAEB9,  Italian,  (81 
„  OwlogT  of.  68S 
lamutins'i  "  Grailella,"  221 
Landoa,  in  Kintb  of  Pnnea,  G05 
Lanten,  the,  1U4 
LemoD  (re*  at  Wmlaat,  17 
Leiinni  bonn,  HankmB,  77,  183 
Lepauto,auiraf,  SOS 
Lerisi,  Tillagt  of,  213 
LiqaoriM.  miuiafaotorj,  Aidin,  579 
LinDm  tri^num  on  Bmera,  lOG 
Liiard,  the  inT&lided,  167 
Llojd's,  Itaesarrojor  fron,  456 
Looh,  Scotch,  Gibing  in,  C01 
LocnMt,  fiSO  1  a  battle  with,  SE2 
Loi  dn  noel,  Coraiea,  S52 
Lorere,  town  of,  £88 
liugaoa,  Uke  of,  59> 


MACDRLIHA,  LA,  lahnd,  4S0 
Madden,  D.,  on  Ualaga,  280 
Hadein,  climate  of,  88,  169,  62S 

„        niafall  at,  70 
Madrid,  citj,  Tegetation,  28B 
Malta,  iilaaJ  of,  gaxlog;,  4S4 
Magenta,  battle  field  of,  688 
Maggiore,  the  lake,  GB9 
Malaga,  city,  878 ;  elimate,  370 
MalMia,  at  Heotoac^  171 


Malaria,  Im  Oonia*,  176,  ^4 
„      in  Sardiua,  470 
„      in  Ada  Minor,  B7> 
„      Dr.    Oldbam  on,   394  ;  Dr. 
Aimand  oa,  804 
Malta,  Tegetatiou  of,  484 
„    oliiaateof,484;  TegeUtion, 486 
„    eliniata  of,  400 
MaiBDiDthi,  ftman,  on  Lena,  51 
Han,  prehiitorie  or  foeail,  65 
Manfredi,  Dr.  BaaUa,  Orena,  888.  S79 
Maqaia,  or  bnuhwDod,  Cunica,  SSS 
Hanboata,  or  hoi;  mea,  637 
Uana,  Loeh,  fiahing  ie,  696 
Margaria'*,  Conil«,  garden,  113 
Maritime  Alpa,  the,  G 
Maneillsa,  gaidaoa  at,  118 
Martin,  0^  40 
Maaa  CuTua,  town  of,  213 
Haarj,  on  tbe  ma.  12B,  131 
Heteorologioal  taUee,  817 

„  „       of       Henton^ 

Media,  617 
„  „        of     Mentone, 

Nile,  Malaga. 
619,  820 
„  „         of  winter  oil- 

„  „       mate*.  Sir  J. 

Oark,  821 
MeleorolDgical  icmarki,  624 
Medical  feaiare*  of  Uie  RJTien,  162 
Heditemaean  bwin,  tbe,  1-123 
Mediterranean,  blnenc**  of,  1 43 
„  eurrenta,  181 

„  depth,  aoaiidiog,  127 

„  fiab,  ISI 

„  ealtneu,  143 

„  etornie  on,  129 

Udei,  125 
Mentone,  >itQation.  8 

„        climate  and  legetatioD,  13 
„        Bociallj  coaeidrred,  173 
Mentonlan*,  DatiTe,  tbeirdi  •*>*•■,  170 
Meaembrjanthemnm,  HentoDe,  82 
Metaina,  town  of,  Sieilj,  428 
HignoDette,  Menlone,  32 
M  ian,  citj,  free  at  lut,  683 
Miocene  period  at  Mentone,  42 
Milianab,  town  of  Algeria,  643 
Hilia,  orange  grore*,  ISardiaia,  47t 
Hilfc,  >lie«p  and  goat'a,  400 

„     neeenatj  for  childran,  46t 
Mineral*,  in  Curnoa,  SSO 
„        in  Baidinia,  474 


^^r^^^^^^Hj 

652                            mDEX.                           ^^H 

llInll«wl%bA]Mt{H,  »4 

Itigbh^  viaUr,  »«I  am  Blvim,  M, 

MiocKsie  |i«riMl,  ^iMU  of,  it 

00.  eao 

Htitrtl,  tha  wind,  io  Jl*«lilemnHii, 

„           ,.      MUi>KiU.«M.e» 

<e 

,,           ,,      iu  Daani  of  Sahaxa, 

MiadMippi,  tt>c  riT«r,  67 

6«1 

MiHnl,  Ui*.  ia.Sf.  117 

1,           ,,      ia    AlKtriiie   daani, 

MKMUkb  plijo,  Almia.  fiSS 

r>6i 

lEenttany  in  (ir  U  Ualanc,  6i 

HnmnitilitiD  ntki,  lltuUmc,  41        ^_ 

„        io  RattaiOd,  M 

^^M 

II«Ila«c*  «l  IbukuM,  140 

^^M 

Hontidg^  HD,,  m  BcDc  axes,  60 

rikSXS  uf  tba  SaWa,  tti.  UO           1 
\J    OUlam,  tlneilnaMa,  «1                  1 

„        an  ralltjr  of  tiainws  ISO 

Heuridfiv,  T..  iuu. ,  FluBaf  Mantaiw, 

OlautdBT,  84,  272.  SIS                             1 

17 

Oilra  int.  lb(^  un  Utknt,  IS                1 

„         hurnUof  uilii,  tnp-d«er 

OpoatU  or  phekl/  pntr,  it,  4M     ^^B 

fpidna,  87 

0(111,  acaporl  luau  U.  M>£                 ^^H 

Moii»e<^  ^riT*  U^  ITd 

Onnja  Uta,  MtuUma,  17                 SH 

1,      (kminif  ulilga,  179 

„    Eaiuni     Ilalf,    AtcIiE^^ 

„      nrdnuv  1T9 
„      buid,  17B 

)«:laj^      Suiily,     Sat-       1 
dlnia.  471                          1 

MoiiMle,  Uwo  ud  (ullMifasI,  tit 

„        „     MalM.4»»                          1 

MoDKWD,  liltla,  *t  M«iilua^  61 

„     Illi.iab,  Alftrift,  a|__| 

Upskcj  U)rt*ul.  Alarm,  StO 

sen       ^^^H 

M«U  Criaio,  uluid  uf.  336 

Otcbidaat  Maniune,  33           ^^^^H 

Hwnuliiue.  un  Ririoii.  lot,  4J9 

Ortns,  iron  *atmi.  370          ^^^^^| 

Monlnui,  U.  ol  Uenevk.  clinutM^  003 

Orilis«la>  palni  jcrorn  of,  tST         ^^H 

Moipo*.  baiha  el,  V'J 

Oriaotf^  tha  tivf*.  73                     ^™ 

M»M)a»Bt  Alpieii.  All 

OriateM^  Unni  of  SardioU,  47* 

HMqaiton  oa  lUiicia,  TS,  0(0 

Ori«an>nll»,  town,  Alcrria,  09* 

Moltii  kuiDUilDg  bin].  III 

Oraondi.  In,  ■niDioer  alat'on,  93 

UoDDUici*.  IP  aaiiinicr.  PS 

Orphantdw.  f^^,  Alfaou,  3M 

Munia,  cilv  ajiil  [laln  u^  21S 
Uuaic  at  Muuacu,  171> 

OrU.  laJH  «r.  it's                             ^ 

OillJo,  rlUae*  bf  Sanlinia,  449        ^H 

MuatapLa  auixiriur,  Altiar^  4B7 
Muaahnwla,  110,  114 

H 

Ujifa,  tbo.  80 

pAdB.  Mr,  on  lifcafglobt.  48   ^M 

ISO 
PaDbw,  the  ilrtr,  Kiot.  14 

MjUialugTofSiell;.  4SC 

\TARIIOKKARI>'S«HTbir.,  G.Juu, 

fak  Oallan,  in'oe  in  Sanlioia,  47S 

Paltnao.  nlj.  vcEcUtiiin,  4U         ^_ 

Naplta,  tiij,  'J2I 

Paloallur,  iriaUf  La.  teO                   ^^M 

Ka(Mla>n'a  liiiilitilM*  at  Ajudc^  303 

Paloiaal  Umhoh,  IM                   ^H 

NmiuniH,  uilil  aii'l  ciilllralnl,  103 

at  Bonlvhtn,  M                    ^H 

NiuIurLiutn,  a  limduLal.  tlO 

„      in  SpAim.  257.  SiS                 .^H 

KalunliHUi,  l>iip|>]>  |>m;i1«i  H2 

atA)«Mra.91S               ,^^H 

IfegrDo*  in  AlHrrla,  SOO 

„     In  AiDuiM,  U«            ^^H 

Kmi,  tnn  rf,  !1 1 

,.     BftU-dODn,lU           ^^^M 

Naonltia  un  Kiiirra,  lAO 

Paoli,  tho  Coniwa  (auriol,  S4S     ^H 

Kioa,  ■  •oallicrii  njiiral,  103 

FaraaoU  ncH— rj,  74                        ^^| 

Ki«Dla*i.  on  Mmiol  Klaa.  441 

Panbanwi,  tha,  AUien,  >M          ^H 

Hidaty  lb*  Albanian  gNiai:^  451 

PMtanle^  bet.                             ^^H 

Slapcab  Dr..  on  MnibniMBta.  16 

Cinlow  800          ^^^H 

Kigbt*  «mI  on  Xtviaia,  01,  79 

""^'"i 

INCIX 


653 


Tfttrtui.  l«<ni  of,  303 

Fmh,  climxte  of,  moist,  If>9 

,,    ninfkll  at,  70 
PkiM,  Qreciin  arcfaipeUgo,  801 
Fmch  tre«  on  ftiiiers,  63 
PeniteatB,  black  and  wbitc,  203 
PgninDDa.  or  board  in  g-faoiues,  192 
Pepper  trse,  fslw.  >t  Hentona,  SS 

„        „     elM»hers,306,  485 
F»n,     Christiuia,      Cunit&Btinapl^ 

822 
riiiloKipfaieal  eaginsen,  S3 J,  410 
FbthiaU  otare  of,  ]fi4 

,,      beoeflC    of    the    south    In 
winter,  1G7 
Phyiieal  geographf  of  MeditemDewi 

baain,  11 
Pieciont,  Dr.,  Major  of  Bartia,  3S7 
Piotareaqne,  tare  of  the,  380 
Filerims,  1200,  to  Heoem  SIB 
Pine  format*,  Mentone,  28 
Pino,  Seneca'a  tower,  Conica,  SST 
Pinal  maritiisa,  28 

„     pinea,  28 
Piraaa.  the.  30i 
Finlea.  on  Riviera.  187 
Piu,  litnation,  climate,  213 
Fiiliicia  lentisi^us,  27 

„        tcrebinthiaoB,  317 
Fiacatoiiana.  Meatoue, 
Flagnea  in  former  daja,  227 
Flaina  of  Cenlial  Spain,  204-271 
Plane,  Oriental,  at  Mentcne,  29 

,,     at  CiinsUnlltiople,  32S 
Fleioccne  rocka,  Mentone,  43 
Poet,  Tillaie  doctor  and,  373 
Poetical  climate  fallaciea,  88,  203 
Pollphemoa,  the  Cjclopa,  136 
Poljpadinm  Tulnare  (era,  37 
Pomprii,  a2:i,  408 
PoDioi,  Conicaa,  338 

„       Sardinian,  470 
Font  Ht.  Louia.  the,  147 
Porpoises  in  Meiliterruieu,  138 
Potto  Torrea,  f-arJinia,  481 
Forlo  Ve«ehlo,  Cntaica,  393 
Prahistoric  man,  the,  Bi 
Priaat,  the,  at  Pino,  Goruca,  388 
Primeial  foreata,  Conio,  400 
„  „        Sanlbia,  478 

primroaea,  Talie;,  108 
Pri»oner^  Ar»b,  Coriica,  871 
Profeaaon  at  Uentone,  200 
Ptorig  aqailana,  brake  i«ni,  30 


RAtLTAT,  Sioe  to  Genoa,  177 
„  Osnoa  to  Pisa,  21S 

,,  Spanish,  261 

„         in  Sardinia,  407 
„         in  Algeria,  639,  506 
„         in  Am*  Minor,  677 
E^nWl  at  Oreenwieh,  70 
„       at  Mentons,  flS 
„       at  Nice.  89 
„      at  Algiers,  Gd2 

in  BaiteiQ  Spun,  248,  247, 
200 
Rainless  tract,  Bahartt,  Arabia,  72 
Bapid  tisTclling  dairgeroae,  641 
Bennie,  Dr.,  malaria  in  China,  876 
Best,  way  to,  when  driving,  183 
Rheumatism  on  Eitiera,  163 
Bioe  fields  in  Spain,  206 

„        In  Lombardf,  GS2 
BiTierv,  Oenoese,  207 
,,       Sicilian,  43t 
Eiviilie,  H.,  discorer^  of  fosul  man, 

64 
Boccnbrana,  Tillage  of,  41 
Bocka,  the  red,  48,  160 
Rogers,  8.,  prophecy  on  Italj,  201 
Ri^ra,  Professor,  geology  of  Mentons, 

39 
Bonum  aqnednct,  147 
Bomana  In  Algeria,  fill 
Rome,  the  city  of,  210 
Eosemary,  the,  104 
Boses  in  Biviera,  106 
Boaainiire,  La,  Bnmmer  Station,  S3 
Roya,  valley  of  the,  4S 
Bowing,   sailing   in    MediterrMSAD, 

167 
Raitehuk,  town  on  Daoabs,  32S 
Bula  muraria  ttia,  37 


STA.  AQSESE,  Tillage  of,  187 
St  Anionio  gardens,  Malta,  48l 
8t^  Dalmaa,  for  summer,  91 
St,  Loois  rocks,  Mentone.  147 
Sta.  Lucia  di  Tall.ino,  387 
St,  Paul,  MinucKtih  phthieia,  94 
St.  MoriU,  a  summer  station,  93 
Bt,  Bemo,  alatiun  of,  229 
S^ara,  desert,  loflnenoe*  Maditen*- 

Dean  climate,  83 
Bahcl  hills,  at  Algiers,  499 
Salt  lakea,  Sardlaia,  481 
H         Tnnil,  GtO 


654 


mutx; 


SaWiai.  on  RJnem,  1 00 
SantlitODc  TrxetHllon.  M«nt«aft,  U 
Swiiluu,  (Uiiimer,  00 

„        UtntvDa  niounUlna,  Duln 

„         in  SaiUnlanit,  »I 
on  Mount  Blan.  Ui 
SuATOD*,  Lbo,  in  aUou  limis,  187 

Buwi«nlU    (MnOki    upcu}.    My 

B«rtctiB,  in  Cnnin.  387 
BwiBrl.  town  in  ganliDift,  104 
SkvaiUh  cilr  of.  3^ 
6ati«iii0Der>\     H.,    gtrdcn,    H*r- 

■oilln,  117 
ScblDDiMulli.  39,  tOSi,lU 
Schwl*.  An.K  608 
SoiniMo  ojnil.  tb«,  St.  4tT,  BU 
RwlopcuJrani  fern  >l  Uvntone,  9? 
SMTWon  nlltjr.  AltRru^  Stt 
Seolluiil.  (nniaiir  diuat*  of.  18S 
(lea  ilckoM*,  (.liiMrlei  nf.  *»& 
Sm  T«]t^  f«r  phUiiui,  140 
Simllbnuv  «7«tk  of,  ibi.  itO 
S<M<»'*  1!ii«r«r,  Cenica,  SM 
SwmIIo    OM^isM,    OtMtantinot)]*, 

S33 
8|Mri  ill  Iciantiy  tonn  of,  til 
8«T)lle.  ciif  uid  «ilie<ln>l,  S7E 
Shalle/*  houK,  Uria,  21i 
Slell;,  tour  in,  toi 

„      nol<i«7,  416 
SWnm  HonM^  tbtv  S|«hi,  373 

„  „        ■oanuia*,  ST3 

8l|ht4tdtig,  lad  lot  iatalidi^  041 
SIbsT  mlDCi,  Outbnstnn,  US 
Rlmjibii  ttm,  pir»n  of,  000 
SliHipare.  tsDpctalun  uf,  Vl 
BoiTn*,  «liinBi«,  IiTT 

„         liulf  and  pit;.  174 
,,  Tvgvtaiion.  S7S 

SmjrUi,  Aduiml.  on  MtdilarnoMD, 

Snow  it  McntoDB,  10 

„     in  Oinica,  OS 

,.     in  .llurria,  6H 
Soil,  dcpoiiled  bjr  Iircn^  Sf 
SoJk  ■Ttifidal,  lOP 
Soiptllo,  Aiit*  l«,  let 
Soondinc*.  (Im|i  m^  tST 
Spain,  oirninl,  811 

„     RWRTaptj^  and  (*olog]r,  3U 
8]*iiiaiiliv  cliatMtrr,  S87 


Spaniih  (illasr,  ni^t  in.  384 
tlpMiia,  olisiKM  oC  3 11 
l<pon>lBi,  Ihr,  arrlii|ieU^  tl7 
KpTJBg  in  tlie  tsalik,  108 
SqniU,  thf,  is  Alftria,  S80 

,,  at  Ucntant^  lOS 

Slaaa4li,  Ultlc  of.  617 
9lM*,fiJitd  asd  iKtiable,  47 
Sidra.  1,  Bl  Ka.  217 
StaUtlint  vmthrr.  li-nUaa^  SIT 
SunmrrcliiBalg  of  Mcntiaac,  M 

„        otimitn  (oi  inntidl^  91 
laniMiuD,  Bint  418 
Sun  hMt  in  MailltatnMM,  TA 
&unNilat  Mrnumiy  17(1 

„     obilliam  oF,  T»,  16S 
flanrfijpa  is  M«<i>l*mii«an,  74 
Sjn.  lb*  inland  >(,  MS 
SjnaoM,  lonii  uf,  (tiritjr.  4SI 
Swallow)  la  Mcditstiaiimn,  IIS 
Swim,  wlnMr  cioicnnl*,  tiit 


TAMABrsK.  lb^  81,  srs, «« 

I      Tank*  for  iitiiMiui.  98 
Twirmiria,  lows  orSidlj,  4tS 
Taranto,  town  of,  SS8 
T*ll.  lb*.  Alctii^  104 
Ttinpvralc  loDa.  BiTitiaa,  is,  87 
Till  irt' 1 1' II  id,  Earriann  ti,  148 
Ttrrana,  moantain,  llwUnot  S7 
Ttrtiir;  ^Dok^  UaDtoix,  10^  41 
Tbtmoinllriod  Obica,  017 

„  rtmatkft,  611 

Tba<«i(,  l«ni|>1a  ot,  Athtnt,  SOI! 
TbiMl^  (b«  TaritcW*^  3" 
Tbonrt,  IL,  prdao,  A»Ubc«,  108 
Tbjmc,  wild,  101 
Tiberiua.  Bapenr,  Oami,  SSI 
Tiii-oBiou,  Kah}l«  (Ui«ct^  MS 
Torqaajr,  rainfall  at,  70 
Taw*r,  tli«,  lirimaldi,  118 
Tnppiata,  cnltrof,  Alg«t<«,  Bt7 
Tro^r,  ait*  of,  131 
Tanny  Sabiof  at  MtotOM,  tSB 
Tnrbia,  rillaf*  of,  17i 
Turia  road,  lb%  181 
TvoM,  eitj,  attaatisn.  Mfl 
„      „    sardn^CAS 
„      ,,    nsBlatioo,  SOO 
„      „    c1iniat«,  iii 
Tanla'it,  vhara«ttr  i^.  AT) 
Tjndall,  Fnf.,  oa  but,  66 


k 


^ 


INDEX. 


655 


u 


NDEBCLIPF,  the,  of  Btuop«,  es 


TAL  DK  FBNAS,  2Sfl 
VbIchcu,  town  and  Tmllaj  of, 

267 
Tdctu.  cit;  of,  M&1U,  436 
Tftlladoliil,  citf  of,  2S9 
Tftlombrou,  duke  of,  gardeo,  IIG 
Tudftli,  Spiiiii,  260 

„        AlgorU,  S03,  S!fi 
Tapoar  in  Bngliih  atmotphere,  04 
Tuiu,  toirn  of,  S27 
Vcgetslion,  dimiita  ahawa  bj,  IS 
Vendrtis  in  Conic*,  347 
Ventilatioa  dmouit,  10S,  168,  171 
Ventiiiiiglia,  loirn  of.  17S,  231 
TenTiiu,  a  rolntiic  oentit,  4S 

„        and  MoBDt  BtnacoDnwtad, 
427 
VcHnrina  (metling.  038 
Tioo,  Tilings  in  GonicK,  381 
Tielor;,  the,  Nelson'i  ibip,  S26 
Tigier's,  B&ron,  gardeu,  113 
TiJIage,  n  Kabjie,  £33 
Tillaa  at  Miinioiie,  192 
Tillefrsncba,  nor  Nice,  88 
TiM,  tbs,  at  KsDtone,  61 

,,      „     in  Conica.  367,  390 
Vii^itio,  die  itMintblp,  216,  aSS 
ViTiriu,  pan  of,  Coraiea,  379 
Tooeroa,  Cotaicu  xwea,  349 


TyABH  tcmoei,  tbe,  »t  U«Dton^ 

Wan,  Preocb,  in  Algeria,  620,  U9 
Water,  hud,  on  lUvien,  49 

„     had  in  SordiDia,  4B0 
Waterfalls,  or  ouoadea.  HentoDS,  180 
Watera,  iweet,  Conetaatinaple,  321 
Werbridge,  mj  garden  at,  117 
Wluiln  in  Heditemnean,  IBS 
Whitebait  in  HeditemoMn,  133 
WindowB  to  be  open  at  uight,  210 
Winda,  syatemio,  72 

„      trade,  73 

„     land  and  nan  at  Itentona,  8S 

„      difficult  to  obaene,  87 
Wine  at  Heatooe,  61 

„     in  Coraica,  367,  390 
Winter  in  Heditemuieitn,  S 
Wivea,  Eabjie,  purchaaad,  688 
Woollen  dolbea  neccnarj,  161 

YOUTH  and  age,  jajre  of,  204 
Tnocaa  aonriah,  114,  116,  B18 

ZANTB.  Uland  of,  302 
Ziiiphai  Bpina  chtiati,  CSl 
Zootogj,  marine,  139 
Zoophytee  at  If eiitone,  140 
„        Tarietie*  of,  141 
Zone,  HeditarraneaD,  inanbtrepical,  3 


THE   END. 


.1 


MHMWt 

'  U?iLt,  kDiuiDi  im  CO.,  nmnu,  caimot  miM, 


.1 


I 


D 

.B«l7 
1875 


DATE  DUE 



STANFORD  UNIVERSTTY  UBRARIES 

STANFORD.  CAUFORNIA 

94505