29266
COLONEL T. K. LAWREJNVE, THJB MYSTERY MAN OF AKAJBiA
A STAR BOOK
WITH LAWRENCE
IN ARABIA
By
LOWELL THOMAS
Original Photographs
Taken by H. A. Chase r. R. G. s.
And by the Author
GARDEN CITY PUBLISHING CO., INC.
GARDEN CITY, NEW YORK
Copyright, 1024, by
THE CENTURY Co.
CL
PRINTKD IN XT, 8. JL.
FOREWORD
Surely no one ever offered a volume to the public
who was quite so deeply indebted to others, and I
have long looked forward to the opportunity of ex-
pressing my gratitude. To do this I must turn back
the pages of time to the days when, accompanied by
my photographic colleague, Mr. Harry A. Chase, and
two other assistants, I left America to gather infor-
mation and secure a pictorial record of the various
phases of the struggle that was then in progress all
the way from the North Sea to far-off Arabia.
We had set forth early in 1917 and were expected
to return at the end of a year or so to help in the work
of stimulating enthusiasm for the Allied cause. The
late Mr. Franklin K. Lane, secretary of the interior,
suggested that I resign from the faculty of Prince-
ton University in order to undertake this. To
Secretary Lane, Secretary Daniels of the Navy De-
partment, and Secretary Baker of the War Depart-
ment, who were responsible for our becoming at-
tached successively to the various Allied armies, I am
indebted for the opportunities which enabled me to
obtain the material for this volume. This was before
a special appropriation had been set aside for such
work; as a result of Secretary Lane's suggestion,
viii FOREWORD
eighteen distinguished private citizens supplied the
funds for the undertaking.
Mr. Chase and I have just concluded a three-year
tour of the world, during which I have shown the
pictorial record and narrated to several million people
the story which we brought back of Allenby's con-
quest of the Holy Land, and the hitherto unknown
story of Lawrence and the war in the Land of the
Arabian Nights. The generous praise and innumer-
able courtesies which have been extended to us dur-
ing this tour have been received by us on behalf of
these eighteen nameless gentlemen. For it is to
them that the credit is due. In Europe, Americans
are commonly regarded as mere worshipers of Mam-
mon; yet these financiers are typical American busi-
ness men, and if this book proves to be a contribution
of value because it happens to be the only written
fragmentary record of the most romantic campaign
in modern history, then the credit belongs to these
unselfish, anonymous gentlemen of Chicago. For
had it not been for them, the story of Colonel Law-
rence's achievements in Arabia might never have been
told, and might never have become widely known
even among his own countrymen.
To Colonel John Buchan, who in those days was
one of the mysterious high priests of the Ministry
of Information, I am indebted for the permit that
got me out to Palestine at the time when other mis-
sions were not allowed there, and at the time when
Allenby, Britain's modern Coeur de Lion, was leading
FOREWORD i*
his army in the most brilliant cavalry campaign of
all time. I also am deeply indebted to the great
commander-in-chief himself, and likewise to the chief
of his intelligence staff, Brigadier-General Sir Gil-
bert F. Clayton. It was they who were responsible
for our being the only observers attached to the
Shereefian forces in Holy Arabia.
During the time that Mr. Chase and I were in
Arabia, I found it impossible to extract much infor-
mation from Lawrence himself regarding his own
achievements. He insisted on giving the entire
credit to Emir Feisal and other Arab leaders, and to
his fellow-adventurers, Colonel Wilson, of the Sudan,
ISTewcombe, Joyce, Dawney, Bassett, Vickery, Corn-
wallis, Hogarth, Stirling, etc., all of whom did mag-
nificent work in Arabia. So to them I went for
much of my material, and T am indebted to various
members of this group of brilliant men whom Gen-
eral Clayton used in his Near Eastern Secret Corps.
Eager to tell me of the achievements of their quiet,
scholarly companion, they refused to say much about
themselves, although their own deeds rivaled those of
the heroes of "The Arabian Nights."
To the Right Hon. Lord Riddell, and to Mr.
Louis D. Froelick, editor of "Asia," I am grateful
for the encouragement which led me to believe that I
should attempt the delightful task of recording what
little I know of this romance of real life. I owe a
special debt to Miss Elsie Weil, former managing
editor of "Asia"; also to Captain Alan Bott, M.C.,
x FOREWORD
R.A.F. (Contact) ; to my colleague, Mr. Dale
Carnagey, the American novelist; and to my wife
for it was their invaluable cooperation that finally en-
abled me to prepare this volume.
There are others infinitely better qualified than I
to give the world a full account of the Arabian Revo-
lution. For instance, Commander D. G. Hogarth,
the famous Arabian authority who played a promi-
nent advisory part, could easily do this. It is to be
hoped that his archaeological work and duties as
curator of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford will
not prevent him from preparing a final official his-
tory. But it is to Lawrence himself that we must
look for the inside story of the war in the Land of
the Arabian Nights.
Unhappily, no matter how much unselfish work a
man does for his country, and no matter how modest
he is, there are always people hovering about on the
side-lines ready to tear his record to pieces. For
instance, there are those who say that Lawrence has
received altogether too much "publicity'' through me.
They piously declare that this is not in accordance
with military ethics. There may be something in
this, though I doubt it. But if there is, the blame
should all be mine.
There is no question that the praise I have given
him has embarrassed him exceedingly. Indeed, had
he realized when I was in Arabia that I one day
would be going up and down the world shouting his
praises, I have n't the slightest doubt that he would
FOREWORD xi
have planted one of his nitroglycerine tulips under
me, instead of under a Turkish train! However,
not only did Lawrence little dream that I might one
day be "booming him," as he describes it, but it had
never even occurred to me that I should be so doing.
The conspirators who were largely responsible for
my coming to England were Sir William Jury, for-
merly of the Ministry of Information, and Major
Evelyn Wrench, of the English Speaking Union,
and, more particularly, Mr. Percy Burton, the Lon-
don impresario formerly associated with Sir Henry
Irving, and Sir Johnston Forbes-Robertson. It
was Mr. Burton who came to me in New York and
inveigled me into agreeing to appear for a season at
Covent Garden Royal Opera-House, London, with
my production, "With Allenby in Palestine and
Lawrence in Arabia."
Another "bazaar rumor" that has been going the
rounds is to the effect that Colonel Lawrence has
renounced Christianity and turned Mohammedan.
This also is the offspring of some feverish imagina-
tion! From what I saw of Lawrence I rather be-
lieve that he is a better Christian than the most of us.
In his introduction to a new edition of Doughty's
classic "Arabia Deserta" he says of that great Ara-
bian traveler: "He was book-learned, but simple
in the arts of living, trustful of every man, very si-
lent. He was the first Englishman they had met.
He predisposed them to give a chance to other men
of his race, because they found him honourable and
xii FOREWORD
good. So he broke a road for his religion. They
say that he seemed proud only of being Christian,
and yet never crossed their faith/' The tribute he
pays to Doughty might be applied equally appropri-
ately to himself*
L, T.
CONTENTS
JUAPTEB PA<3B
I A MODERN ARABIAN KNIGHT 3
II IN SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION . . ... 11
III THE ARCHAEOLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER ... 33
IV THE CULT OF THE BLOOD OF MOHAMMED . . 47
V THE FALI/ OF JEDDAH AND MECCA .... 58
VI THE GATHERING OF THE DESERT TRIBES . . 77
VII THE BATTLE AT THE WELLS OF ABU EL LISSAL . 90
VIII THE CAPTURE OF KING SOLOMON'S ANCIENT
SEAPORT 99
IX ACROSS THE RED SEA TO JOIN LAWRENCE AND
FEISAL 109
X THE BATTLE OF SEIL EL HASA 129
XI LAWRENCE THE TRAIN- WRECKER 137
XII DRINKERS OF THE MILK OF WAR 149
XIII AUDA ABU TAYI, THE BEDOUIN ROBIN HOOD . .155
XIV KNIGHTS OF THE BLACK TENTS 164
XV MY LORD THE CAMEL 174
XVI ABDULLAH THE POCK-MARKED, AND THE STORY
OF FERRAJ AND DAOUD . . . . - - .181
XVII AN EYE FOR AN EYE AND A TOOTH FOR A TOOTH 188
XVIII A ROSE-RED CITY HALF AS OLD AS TIME . . .199
XIX A BEDOUIN BATTLE IN A CITY OF GHOSTS . 219
XX THE RELATIVE IN MY HOUSE ........ 230
xiii
xiv CONTENTS
CHAPTEB PAGB
XXI THROUGH THE TURKISH LINES IN DISGUISE . . 240
XXII THE GREATEST HOAX SINCE THE TROJAN HORSE 253
XXIII A CAVALRY NAVAL ENGAGEMENT AND LAW-
RENCE'S LAST GREAT RAID 261
XXIV THE DOWNFALL OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE . . 272
XXV LAWRENCE RULES IN DAMASCUS, AND THE
TREACHERY OF THE ALGERIAN EMIR . . . 288
XXVI TALES OF THE SECRET CORPS .... .301
XXVII JOYCE & Co., AND THE ARABIAN KNIGHTS OF THE
AIR 309
XXVIII FEISAL AND LAWRENCE AT THE BATTLE OF PARIS 321
XXIX LAWRENCE NARROWLY ESCAPES DEATH; ADVEN-
TURES OF FEISAL AND HUSSEIN 333
XXX LAWRENCE FLEES FROM LONDON, AND FEISAL BE-
COMES KING IN BAGDAD 345
XXXI THE SECRET OF LAWRENCE'S SUCCESS . . . 364
XXXII THE ART OF HANDLING ARABS 374
XXXIII LAWRENCE THE MAN ........ 390
WITH LAWRENCE IN
ARABIA
CHAPTER I
A MODERN ARABIAN KNIGHT
ONE day not long after Allenby had captured
Jerusalem, I happened to be in front of a
bazaar stall on Christian Street, remonstrat-
ing with a fat old Turkish shopkeeper who was at-
tempting to relieve me of twenty piasters for a hand-
ful of dates. My attention was suddenly drawn to a
group of Arabs walking in the direction of the Da-
mascus Gate. The fact that they were Arabs was
not what caused me to drop my tirade against the
high cost of dates, for Palestine, as all men know, is
inhabited by a far greater number of Arabs than
Jews. My curiosity was excited by a single Bedouin,
who stood out in sharp relief from all his companions.
He was wearing an agal, kuffieh, and aba such as are
worn only by Near Eastern potentates. In his belt
was fastened the short curved sword of a prince of
Mecca, insignia worn by descendants of the Prophet.
Christian Street is one of the most picturesque and
kaleidoscopic thoroughfares in the Near East.
4 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
sian Jews, with their corkscrew curls, Greek priests in
tall black hats and flowing robes, fierce desert nomads
in goatskin coats reminiscent of the days of Abraham,
Turks in balloon-like trousers, Arab merchants lend-
ing a brilliant note with their gay turbans and gowns
all rub elbows in that narrow lane of bazaars, shops,
and coffee-houses that leads to the Church of the
Holy Sepulcher. Jerusalem is not a melting-pot,
It is an uncompromising meeting-place of East and
West. Here are accentuated, as if sharply outlined
in black and white by the desert sun, the racial pe-
culiarities of Christian, Jewish, and Mohammedan
peoples. A stranger must, indeed, have something
extraordinary about him to attract attention in the
streets of the Holy City. But as this young Bedouin
passed by in his magnificent royal robes, the crowds in
front of the bazaars turned to look at him,
It was not merely his costume, nor yet the dignity
with which he carried his five feet three, marking him
every inch a king or perhaps a caliph in disguise who
had stepped out of the pages of "The Arabian
Nights." The striking fact was that this mysterious
prince of Mecca looked no more like a son of Ishmael
than an Abyssinian looks like one of Stefansson's
red-haired Eskimos. Bedouins, although of the Cau-
casian race, have had their skins scorched by the re-
lentless desert sun until their complexions are the
color of lava. But this young man was as blond as
a Scandinavian, in whose veins flow viking blood and
the cool traditions of fiords and sagas. The no-
A MODERN ARABIAN KNIGHT 5
\nadic sons of Ishmael all wear flowing bear.ds, as
their ancestors did in the time of Esau. This youth,
with the curved gold sword, was clean-shaven. He
walked rapidly with his hands folded, his blue eyes
oblivious to his surroundings, and he seemed wrapped
in some inner contemplation. My first thought as I
glanced at his face was that he might be one of the
younger apostles returned to life. His expression
was serene, almost saintly, in its selflessness and
repose.
"Who is he?" I turned eagerly to the Turk prof-
iteer, who could only manipulate a little tourist Eng-
lish. He merely shrugged his shoulders.
"Who could he be?" I was certain I could obtain
, ome information about him from General Storrs,.
governor of the Holy City, and so I strolled over in
the direction of his palace beyond the old wall, nea*
Solomon's Quarries. General Ronald Storrs, Brit-
ish successor to Pontius Pilate, had been Oriental
secretary to the high commissioner of Egypt before
the fall of Jerusalem and for years had kept in in-
timate touch with the peoples of Palestine. He
spoke Hebrew, Greek, Latin, and Arabic with the
same fluency with which he spoke English. I knew
he could tell me something about the mysterious
blond Bedouin.
"Who is this blue-eyed, fair-haired fellow wander-
ing about the bazaars wearing the curved sword of a
prince of "
The general did not even let me finish the question
8 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
but quietly opened the door of an adjoining room
There, seated at the same table where von Falken-
hayn had worked out his unsuccessful plan for defeat-
ing Allenby, was the Bedouin prince, deeply absorbed
in a ponderous tome on archaeology.
In introducing us the governor said, "I want you
to meet Colonel Lawrence, the Uncrowned King of
Arabia."
He shook hands shyly and with a certain air of
aloofness, as if his mind were on buried treasure and
not on the affairs of this immediate world of cam-
paigns and warfare. And that was how I first made
the acquaintance of one of the most picturesque per-
sonalities of modern times, a man who will be
blazoned on the romantic pages of history with
Raleigh, Drake, Clive, and Gordon,
During the period of the World War, years
crammed with epic events, among others two remark-
able figures appeared. The dashing adventures and
anecdotes of their careers will furnish golden themes
to the writers of the future, as the lives of Ulysses,
King Arthur, and Richard the Lion-Hearted did to
the poets, troubadours, and chroniclers of other days.
One is a massive, towering, square- jawed six-footer,
that smashing British cavalry leader, Field-Marshal
Viscount Allenby, commander of the twentieth-
century crusaders, who gained world fame because
of his exploits in driving the Turks from the Holy
Land and bringing to realization the dream of cen*'
turies. The other is the undersized, beardless youth
A MODERN ARABIAN KNIGHT 7
whom I first saw absorbed in a technical treatise on
the cuneiform inscriptions discovered on the bricks of
ancient Babylon, and whose chief interests in life
were poetry and archaeology.
The spectacular achievements of Thomas Edward
Lawrence, the young Oxford graduate, were un-
known to the public at the end of the World War.
Yet, quietly, without any theatrical head-lines or fan-
fare of trumpets, he brought the disunited nomadic
tribes of Holy and Forbidden Arabia into a unified
campaign against their Turkish oppressors, a diffi-
cult and splendid stroke of policy, which caliphs,
statesmen, and sultans had been unable to accomplish
in centuries of effort! Lawrence placed himself at
the head of the Bedouin army of the shereef of Mecca,
who was afterward proclaimed king of the Hedjaz.
He united the wandering tribes of the desert, restored
the sacred places of Islam to the descendants of the
Prophet, and drove the Turks from Arabia forever.
Allenby liberated Palestine, the Holy Land of the
Jews and Christians* Lawrence freed Arabia, the
Holy Land of millions of Mohammedans.
I had heard of this mystery man many times during
the months I was in Palestine with Allenby, The
first rumor about Lawrence reached me when I was
on the way from Italy to Egypt. An Australian
naval officer confided to me that an Englishman was
supposed to be in command of an army of wild
Bedouins somewhere in the trackless desert of the far-
off land of Omar and Abu-Bekr. When I landed in
8 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
Egypt I heard fantastic tales of his exploits. His
name was always mentioned in hushed tones, because
at that time the full facts regarding the war in
the Land of the Arabian Nights were being kept
secret.
Until the day I met him in the palace of the gover-
nor of Jerusalem I was unable to picture him as a
real person. He was to me merely a new Oriental
legend. Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, Bagdad in
fact, all the cities of the Near East are so full of
color and romance that the mere mention of them is
sufficient to stimulate the imagination of matter-of-
fact Westerners, who are suddenly spirited away on
the magic carpet of memory to childhood scenes fa-
miliar through the tales of "The Thousand and One
Nights." So I had come to the conclusion that Law-
rence was the product of Western imagination over-
heated by exuberant contact with the East. But the
myth turned out to be very much of a reality.
The five-foot-three Englishman standing before
me wore a kuffieh of white silk and gold embroidery
held in place over his hair by an agal, two black
woolen cords wrapped with silver and gold thread.
His heavy black camel's-hair robe or aba covered a
snow-white undergarment fastened at the waist by a
wide gold-brocaded belt in which he carried the
curved sword of a prince of Mecca. This youth had
virtually become the ruler of the Holy Land of the
Mohammedans and Commander-in-chief of many
thousands of Bedouins mounted on racing camels and
A MODERN ARABIAN KNIGHT 3
fleet Arabian horses. He was the terror of the
Turks.
Through his discovery that archaeology held & fas-
cination for me, we became better acquainted during
the following days in Jerusalem before he returned
to his Arabian army. We spent many hours to-
gether, although I did not suspect that it might pos-
sibly be my good fortune to join him later in the
desert. When we were in the company of officers
whom he had just met he usually sat in one corner,
listening intently to everything that was being said
but contributing little to the conversation. When
we were alone he would get up from his chair and
squat on the floor in Bedouin fashion. The first time
he did this he blushed in his peculiar way and excused
himself, saying that he had been in the desert so long
that he found it uncomfortable sitting in a chair.
I made many unsuccessful attempts to induce him
to tell me something of his life and adventures in the
desert, where few Europeans except Sir Richard
Burton and Charles Doughty ever dared venture be-
fore him. But he always adroitly changed the sub-
ject to archaeology, comparative religion, Greek lit-
erature, or Near Eastern politics. Even concerning
his connection with the Arabian army he would say
nothing, except to give the credit for everything that
happened in the desert campaign to the Arab leaders,
or to Newcombe, Joyce, Cornwallis, Dawney,
Marshall, Stirling, Hornby, and his other British
associates.
10 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
Surely Destiny never played a stranger prank
than when it selected^ as the man to play the major
role in the liberation of Arabia, this Oxford grad-
uate whose life-ambition was to dig in the ruins of
antiquity, and to uncover and study long-forgotten
cities.
CHAPTER II
EST SEAKCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION
WHENwe first met in Jerusalem, and later
on in the solitude of the desert, I was un-
able to draw Lawrence out about his
early life. So, after the termination of the war, on
xny way back to America, I visited England in the
hope of being able to learn something concerning his
career prior to 1914, which might throw a light on the
formative period when Destiny was preparing him
for his important role. The war had so scattered his
family and early associates that I found it difficult to
obtain aught but the most meager information about
his boyhood.
County Galway, on the west coast of Ireland, was
the original home of the Lawrences. This may
partly account for his unusual powers of physical en-
durance, for the inhabitants of Galway are among
the hardiest of a hardy race. But in his veins there
also flows Scotch, Welsh, English, and Spanish blood.
Among his celebrated ancestors was Sir Robert Law-
rence, who accompanied Richard the Lion-Hearted
to the Holy Land, seven hundred and thirty years
ago, and distinguished himself at the siege of Acre,
11
12 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
just as the youthful T. E. Lawrence accompanied
Allenby to the Holy Land and distinguished himself
in its final deliverance. The brothers, Sir Henry and
Sir John Lawrence of Mutiny fame, pioneers of
Britain's empire in India, were among his more re-
cent predecessors.
His father, Thomas Lawrence, was at one time the
owner of estates in Ireland and a great sportsman.
Losing most of his worldly possessions during the
Gladstone period, when the bottom fell out of land
values in Ireland, he brought his family across the
Irish Sea to Wales, and Thomas Edward Lawrence
was born in Carnarvon County, not far from the
early home of Mr. Lloyd George, who is to-day one
of his warmest friends and admirers, and who once
told me that he, too, regards Lawrence as one of the
most picturesque figures of modern times.
Five years of his boyhood were spent on the Chan-
nel Isle of Jersey. When he was ten years of age his
family migrated to the north of Scotland, remaining
there for three years. They next moved to France,
where young Lawrence attended a Jesuit College,
although all the members of the family belong to the
orthodox Church of England. From the Continent
they went to Oxford ; and that center of English cul-
ture, which has been their home ever since, has left
its indelible mark on Lawrence. There Xed, as his
boyhood companions called him, attended Oxford
High School and studied under a tutor preparatory
to entering the university. One of his school chums
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 13
relates that although not a star athlete he had a dar*
ing spirit and was filled with the love of adventure.
"Underneath Oxford," this companion tells us,
"runs a subterranean stream bricked over, the Trill
Mill Stream. Ned Lawrence and another boy, carry-
ing lights and often lying flat to scrape through the
narrow culverts, navigated the whole of that under-
ground water passage.
"Oxford is a great boating center. Every stream
that joins the Thames is explored as far up as any
slender craft will float. But the River Cherwell
above I slip is said by the guide-books to be 'nowhere
navigable.' To say that is to challenge boys like
Ned Lawrence to prove the statement untrue, and
that is what he and a companion did. They trained
their canoe to Banbury and came right down the part
of the stream that was 'nowhere navigable.' "
He was fond of climbing trees and scrambling over
the ~oofs of buildings where none dared to follow.
"It was on such an occasion," one of his brothers in-
formed me, "that he fell and broke a leg." His rela-
tives attribute his smallness of stature to that acci-
dent. He seems never to have grown since.
All his life he has been as irregular in his ways as
the wild tribesmen of the Arabian Desert. Al-
though he completed the required four years 1 work
for his bachelor's degree in three years, he never at-
tended a single lecture at Oxford, so far as I have
been able to discover. He occasionally worked with
tutors, but he spent most of his time wandering about
14 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
England on foot, or reading medieval literature. In
order to be alone he frequently slept by day and then
read all night. He was entirely opposed to any set
system of education. The aged professor who
angrily admonished Samuel Johnson when a student
at Oxford, "Young man, ply your book diligently
now, and acquire a stock of knowledge," would have
been equally displeased with young Lawrence. The
idea of obtaining a university education in order to
take up a conventional occupation did not please him
at all. His unconscious credo from earliest youth,
like Robert Louis Stevenson's, seems to have been
that "pleasures are more beneficial than duties, be-r
cause, like the quality of mercy, they are not strained*
and they are twice blest."
As a part of his early reading he made an ex-
haustive study of military writers, from the wars
of Sennacherib, Thotmes, and Rameses down to Na-
poleon, Wellington, Stonewall Jackson, and von
Moltke. But this he did voluntarily and not as a
part of any required work. Among his favorite
books was Marshal Foch's "Principes de Guerre" ;
but he remarked to me on one occasion in Arabia that
his study of Czesar and Xenophon had been of more
value to him in his desert campaign, because in the
irregular war which he conducted against the Turks
he found it necessary to adopt tactics directly op-
posed to those advocated by the great French
strategist.
As the subject for his Oxford thesis Lawrence
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 15
chose the military architecture of the Crusades, and
so absorbed did he become in this work that he urged
his parents to allow him to visit the Near East, so
that he might gain first-hand knowledge of the archi-
tectural efforts of the early knights of Christendom.
In this he was encouraged by the distinguished Ox-
ford scholar and authority on Arabia, Dr. David
George Hogarth, curator of the Ashmolean Mu-
seum, a man who has had an important influence
over his entire life down to the present day, and who
even came out to Egypt during the war and acted
as his intimate counselor during, the Arabian cam-
paign. Lawrence's mother was reluctant to have
him leave home but, after many weeks of pleading,
gave her consent to his visiting Syria as a Cook's
tourist and allowed him two hundred pounds for the
trip. His family was certain that he would return
home after a few weeks, satisfied to settle down for
the rest of his days and ready to forget the heat, the
smells, and the inconveniences of life in the Orient.
But on reaching the Near East he scorned tourists'
comforts and the beaten track. He entered Syria
at Beyrouth and, shortly after landing, adopted na-
tive costume and set out barefoot for the interior.
Instead of traveling as a tourist, he wandered off
alone, along the fringe of the Great Arabian Desert,
and amused himself studying the manners and cus-
toms of the mosaic of peoples who dwell in the ancient
corridor between Mesopotamia and the Nile Valley,
Two years later, when he finally returned to Oxf ore}
1 WITH LAWRENCE IIT ARABIA
to hand in his thesis and receive his degree, he still
had one hundred pounds left!
There were five boys in the Lawrence family, of
which Thomas Edward was the second youngest.
The eldest, Major Montague Lawrence, was a major
in the R. A. M. C.; the second, William, a school-
master at Delhi, in India; the third, Frank, who
finished Oxford and wandered off to the Near East
with Thomas ; and the youngest, Arnold, a star track
athlete at Oxford, who is also interested in archaeol-
ogy, and for a time took his brother's place in Meso-
potamia. Both William and Frank gave their lives
to their country on the battle-fields of France.
Since the war Major Montague Lawrence has
taken up work as a medical missionary in China far
up on the Tibetan frontier; their mother has also gone
to this remote corner of Central Asia, while her
youngest son is roaming around the museums of the
world on a traveling fellowship from Oxford, study-
ing the sculpture of the period of the decadence of
Grecian art.
Several years before the war an expedition from
Oxford, headed by Lawrence's friend Hogarth, the
great antiquarian and archaeologist, began excavating
in the Euphrates Valley, hoping to uncover traces of
that little-known ancient race, the Hittites. Be-
cause of his intimate knowledge of their language and
his sympathetic understanding of their customs, Law-
rence was placed in charge of the digging gangs of
unruly Kurds, Turkomans, Armenians, and Arabs*
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION IV
This expedition eventually succeeded in uncovering
Carchemish, the ancient capital of the Hittite Em-
pire, and there, amid the ruins of that long-forgotten
city, Lawrence amused himself studying inscriptions
on pottery and joining up the various stages of Hit-
tite civilization. He and his associate, C. Leonard
Woolley, director of the expedition, actually un-
covered ruins which proved to be the missing link be-
tween the civilizations of Nineveh and Babylon and
the beginnings of Greek culture in the islands of the
Mediterranean, which extend back for five thousand
years. The Ashmolean Museum at Oxford contains
many exhibits "presented by T. E. Lawrence" before
he was twenty years of age.
An American traveler and director of missions in
the Near East happened to visit the camp of these
lonely excavators. He gives us a vivid picture of his
visit and an indication of how Lawrence received the
training which enabled him to gain such an amazing
hold over the desert tribes when the Great War over-
took him.
"It was in 1913," says Mr. Luther R. Fowle.
"Easter vacation at the American College in Aintab
had given us the opportunity to make the three days'
trip by wagon to Cur fa, the ancient Edessa. After
Curfa, we had visited Haraun, a few miles to the
south, whither Abraham migrated from Ur of the
Chaldees.
"Our return trip to Aintab was by the road farther
to the south, which brought us to the Euphrates River
18 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
at Jerablus, over which the Germans were building
their great railway bridge, an essential link in the
Berlin-to-Bagdad dream. On the western bank, a
few hundred yards from the bridge, was the site of
Carchemish, and there we found the quiet British
scholar, who, under the stress of the war, was soon
to turn from his digging among the ancient ruins be-
side the Euphrates to become a shereef of Mecca and
leader of a vast Bedouin host in a successful war to
throw off the Ottoman yoke.
"Mr. Woolley, the archaeologist in charge of the
work of excavation of Carchemish, had just come
from the diggings, clad in his business dress of gray
flannel shirt and golf -trousers. Lawrence, his youth*
ful associate, also fresh from the works, was stepping
lightly across the mounds of earth clad in what we
Americans would call a running-suit and wearing at
his belt the ornate Arab girdle with its bunch of tas-
sels at the front, the mark of an unmarried man.
But he was out of sight in a moment; and when we
gathered for supper the freshly tubbed young man
in his Oxford tennis-suit of white flannel bordered
with red ribbon, but still wearing his Arab girdle,
launched into the fascinating story of the excava-
tions; of relations with the Kurds and Arabs about
them; of his trips alone among their villages in search
of rare rugs and antiquities, that gave opportunity
for cultivating that close touch and sympathy with
them that subsequently was the basis of his great
service in the time of his country's need. The mea]
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 19
was delicious and was served by a powerful, swarthy
Arab in elegant native dress, with enough daggers
and revolvers in his girdle to supply a museum.
Soon he entered with the coffee, delicious as only
Turkish coffee rightly made can be. And our British
friends, who were hardly able to find interest in the
Roman nut-dishes merely a couple of thousand years
old and part of the rubbish to be cleared away before
reaching the Hittite ruins, pointed out with pride
that our little brown earthenware coffee-cups were
unquestionably Hittite and probably not far from
four thousand years old.
"I should not say 'buildings/ or even 'building/ but
rather 'room' ; for we learned that the British Govern-
ment, because of an understanding with the Turkish
authorities, had given permission to build only one
room. Accordingly Woolley and Lawrence had built
a room of two parallel walls about ten feet apart, ex-
tending fifty feet south, then thirty-five feet westward,
and again fifty feet north. Closed at both ends, this
giant letter U was indeed a room; and, although some-
what astonished, the Turkish Government had to con-
cede the fact. Of course, the honorable inspector
could not object if little partitions were run across
to separate the sleeping portions from the dining-
room and office, and in due time convenience de-
manded that doors be opened from various parts of
the structure into the court. Thus it was that, when
we first saw it, on the right was a series of rooms for
the storage of antiquities and for photographic work;
20 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
on the left were the sleeping-rooms of the excavators
and their guests ; and in the center was the delightful
living-room with open fireplaces, built-in bookcases
filled with well-worn leather-bound volumes of the
classics with which a British scholar would naturally
surround himself, and a long table covered with the
current British papers as well as the archaeological
journals of all the world.
"Around the fireplace we learned much of the good
faith and friendship that existed between these two
lone Englishmen and the native people around them.
They insisted that they were safer on the banks of the
Euphrates than if they had been in Piccadilly. The
leaders of the two most feared bands of brigands in
the region, Kurdish and Arab, were faithful em-
ployees of the excavators, one as night-watchman, the
other in a similar position of trust. Of course there
was no stealing and no danger. Had not these men
eaten of the Englishman's salt? Moreover, the even-
handed justice of the two Englishmen was so well
known and respected that they had come to be the
judges of various issues of all sorts between rival vil-
lages, or in personal disagreement. Never abusing
their prerogatives, their decisions were never ques-
tioned. Lawrence had recently been out to a village
to settle the difficulties arising out of the kidnapping
of a young woman by the man who wished to marry
her and who had been unable to overcome her father's
objections. Could any training have been better for
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 23
the part he was to play in the great Arab awakening
than these experiences among the native people?
"In the living-room was an ancient wooden chest
which may once have held the dowry of a desert bride,
but which now served as money-box and safety-
deposit vault. Larger than a wardrobe-trunk, there
it stood, unlocked and unguarded. It was full of the
silver money with which to pay the two hundred mei;
working on the excavations. But such was the un-
written law of the community, such the love of the
workers for their leaders, and so sure and summary
the punishment which they themselves would mete
out to any of their number taking advantage of this
trust, that the cash could not have been safer in the
vaults of the Bank of England itself.
"All this contrasted sharply with the methods and
experiences of the German engineers half a mile
away, building the Bagdad railway-bridge across the
Euphrates. They and their workers seemed fated to
mutual distrust and hatred. The Teuton could not
see why the Arab should not and would not accept his
regime of discipline and punishment. The Germans
were always needing more laborers, while the
Englishmen, a few hundred yards away, were over-
whelmed with them. Once when the latter were
forced to cut down their staff they tried in vain to
dismiss fifty men. The Arabs and Kurds just smiled
and went on with their work. They were told they
would get no pay, but they smiled and worked on.
22 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
If not for pay, they would work for the love of it and
of their masters. And so they did. NOT was the
excavation without interest to those simple men.
They had caught the enthusiasms of their leaders*
who had taught them to share in the joy of the work;
their digging was not meaningless toil for foreign
money, hut was rather a sharing of the joy of
archaeology.
"We retired for the night, our minds filled with the
stories of the East, in which Christian and pagan,
Hittite, Greek, and Roman, the great past and the
sordid present of these regions were mingled with the
background of energetic German effort and the calm
achievement by two modest and capable representa-
tives of the British breed of men. We slept long and
well on the familiar folding cots in our clean, mud-
walled room ; nor were our slumbers troubled by our
bed-covers, Damascus yorgans of cloth of gold, upon
which a rare arabesque on its background of dull red
invited the eye to journeys without end. These
ancient covers were some of Lawrence's treasures,
brought back from his frequent trips to the Arab vil-
lages, when for weeks his whereabouts were unknown,.
It was during these journeys that he in native garb
joined in the conversation of the village elders on the
shady side of a tent, or came to understand and ad-
mire the Arab in quiet intercourse before an open
.fire, where, sitting cross-legged on the floor, when the
coffee had been made and silently drunk, one and
another spoke. While forty German engineers wert?
SEAKCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 23
building their bridge, which was to enable them to
coerce these people in case they would not obey, one
broad-minded kindly Englishman was unconsciously
preparing to become the man who in the great crisis
was to lead this people, not only to destroy the Teuton
dream of conquest, but to break the centuries-old
political servitude of the Turk.
"After breakfast we were examining the mosaic
floor of the dining-room, a Roman fragment that
these men had taken out whole rather than destroy it
in their search for the Hittite antiquities hidden be-
low. But just then word came of excitement at the
'works. 5 We hurried over to find the Arabs and
Kurds closely packed around a large excavation.
The Greek foreman was removing the age-old earth
about a dark stone several feet square ; and by the time
Mr. Woolley had reached his side, he had determined
which was the real face of the block. With practised
hand, Mr. Woolley began to remove the last crust of
soil which covered the treasure underneath. There
was no one to command those peasants to go back to
their work, for the spiritual fruits of discovery belong
to all, to the Englishman no more than to the water-
boy who left his donkey to find the Euphrates alone,
while he joined the breathless group whose eyes were
glued on Woolley 's jack-knife deftly doing its work.
A burst of applause greeted the first appearance of
something in relief on the hard rock. It was a hand !
no a corner of a building ! a lion ! a camel ! Guess
and conjecture flew about, to be greeted by approval
24 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
or derision, always followed by quick, tense silence*
while the jack-knife did its work. Soon Woolley's
trained eye revealed to him that it was a large animal
standing in a perfect state of preservation and that
he was uncovering its head. His feint to begin at
the other end of the figure was greeted by a babble
of protest from his workmen, not yet sure what the
figure was. Woolley's quick smile acknowledged the
reception of his little joke, and back he went to the
spot already uncovered. Soon head, chest, legs,
body, came to light, and exponents of various theories
cow, horse, sheep rwere still backing their claims
in musical gutturals when Woolley's hand returned
to the head of the animal and with a few quick mo-
tions lifted off the earth which covered the perfect
tracery of a magnificent pair of antlers; alive with
the undying art of forty centuries, there stood re-
vealed before us a superb stag. Such a discovery
was worth a celebration, and unwritten law had or-
dained the nature of it, For the excavator nodded
in response to the Greek's whispered query; and, as
he gave the awaited signal, two hundred boys from
fifteen to sixty-five emptied all the chambers of their
revolvers in the air. I wonder what the Germans
thought as they heard the volley from their bridge;
for, as I found out a few weeks later when I had
galloped over for another visit with the Englishman,
shots at the German place meant something far dif-
ferent. To-day, perspiring as much because of their
intense excitement over the discovery of the Hittita
DATE-PALMS ALONG THE CORAL SHORE OF ARA3JY
S Y R I A^k /IKAQ
TiriS ARAB REVOLT COMMENTED AT MECCA AXD
KXTENDKD AS FAR NORTH AS ALKPPO
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 25
stag as from their labors, the Arabs laughingly sat
down to smoke the cigarettes which ended these cele-
brations, while the water-boy started wildly in search
of his donkey, followed by the vigorous epithets of his
thirsty friends, who knew that the full flavor of a
cigarette comes only with a drink of cold water.
"Noon came all too soon ; and it was Thursday, the
pay-day. Friday was the Moslem Sabbath, and
these Englishmen were too Christian in their rela-
tions with their Moslem workers to make them labor
on their chosen day. Our drive to Aintab was short,
and so we delayed to see the men paid off, on Law-
rence's assurance that it would be interesting.
"A table was set in the open court of the 'room/
and Woolley handed out the piasters to the line of
workers. That was simple, but the men had learned
to bring their discoveries in on pay-days, and they
received cash rewards for everything turned in. Of
course, the result was exceeding care on their part to
lose or break no fragment in their work ; and in fact
rare discoveries were sent in from all the country-side
on these pay-days. The excavators would glance at
the article offered. One man would receive a ten-
piaster bonus for what he brought in, perhaps more to
encourage him than because it had any real worth;
another would have a fragment of pottery smilingly
returned to him by the judge, while his companions
laughed at him for trying to pass off on the alert
Woolley part of a modern water- jar. Never did the
Englishman say, 'I can pay you nothing for this, but
26 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
I will keep it just the same!' It was either paid foi
or returned to the owner. Occasionally a gold coin,
bright as the Arab's eyes, would reward some happy
man; but whether he got the gold or a laugh, never
was the decision of his master and friend questioned.
"As we tinkled across the plain to the rhythm of
the bells on the horses' necks, we had food for thought
in what we had seen. If Britain governs much of the
world, we wondered if it did not because of the merit,
capacity, and good sense of her sons in all lands.
Impressions of this chance visit to Carchemish were
deepened by residence in Constantinople throughout
the World War, where we watched the German play
for the big stake, of which the Euphrates Bridge was
but an incident. And the German lost because of
the way he went after it.
"Thomas Lawrence worked another way. His
extraordinary achievement was wonderful beyond
measure. But it was not a miracle. It was but the
outworking of intelligence, imagination, sympathy,
character."
Robert Louis Stevenson in "An Apology for
Idlers" deplores that "many who have 'plied their
book diligently' and know all about some branch or
other of accepted lore, come out of the study with an
ancient and owHike demeanor, and prove dry, stock-
ish and dyspeptic in the better and brighter parts of
life. " But in Lawrence Stevenson would have
found a kindred spirit. Though scholar and scientist,
he is neither bookish nor owlish. During the early
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 27
days of the Arabian Revolution, a Captain Lloyd,
now Sir George Lloyd, recent governor of Bombay,
was in the desert with him for a short while. He
once said to me: "It is difficult to describe the de-
light of intimate association with such a man. I
found him both poet and philosopher, but possessor
of an unfailing sense of humor."
Mr. Luther Fowle's description of that "U-shaped
room" at Carchernish is an illustration of this same
sense of humor which makes Lawrence so thoroughly
human, and which saved bis life on more than one
occasion. Major Young, of the Near Eastern Secret
Corps, who in pre-war days had known Lawrence in
Mesopotamia, relates another incident. Representa-
tives of England, Germany, France, Russia, and
Turkey met in 1912 and agreed to an arrangement
which gave the Germans control of the important
strategic harbor of Alexandretta, and also permis-
sion to continue the railway which they long had
wanted to extend through from Berlin to Bagdad in
order to open up a direct route to the treasure-vaults
of Hindustan and Far Cathay. Lawrence, with his
intimate knowledge of history, saw in this a bold Prus-
sian threat against British power in Asia. Upon
learning of the agreement he immediately hurried
down to Cairo, demanded an audience with Lord
Kitchener, and asked K. of K. why Germany had
been permitted to get control of Alexandretta, the
vital port to which Disraeli referred when he said that
the peace of the world would one day depend on the
28 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
control of that point on the coast of Asia Minor to-
ward which the finger of Cyprus pointed. Kitchener
replied:
"I have warned London repeatedly, but the
Foreign Office pays no attention. Within two years
there will be a World War. Unfortunately, young
man, you and I can't stop it, so run along and sell
your papers."
Although deeply chagrined because Britain,
wrapped in slumber, ha< allowed Germany to extend
Iier sphere of influence all the way from the Baltic to
the Persian Gulf, Lawrence decided to amuse him-
self by "pulling the leg" of the German engineers
who were working with feverish haste on the Berlin-
to-Bagdad Railway. Loading sections of drainage-
pipe on the backs of mules, he transported them from
Carchemish to the hills which looked down on the
new railroad right of way. There he carefully
mounted them on piles of sand. The German en-
gineers observed them through their field-glasses,
and, as Lawrence had hoped, they mistook these
harmless and innocent pipes for British cannons.
Frantically they wired to both Constantinople and
Berlin declaring that the British were fortifying all
the commanding positions. Meanwhile, Lawrence
and Woolley were laughing up their sleeves.
At Jerablus, northeast of Aleppo, the Germans
were at work on a great bridge over the Euphrates.
In their typically German way they painted numbers-
on the coats of their native workmen as a means of
SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 29
identifying them. They never even attempted to
learn their names. They even committed the folly
of allowing blood-enemies to dig together. Of
course, instead of digging holes for bridge-piles, they
dug holes in each other. This went on for a time, and
then the seven hundred Kurd workmen turned on
their German masters and attacked them. Three
hundred of the digging gang at Carchemish joined
their relatives and started a simultaneous attack from
the rear. Fortunately for the kaiser's myrmidons,
Lawrence and Woolley arrived on the scene in time
to prevent a massacre. As a result of their heroism
both archaeologists were awarded the Turkish order of
the Medjidieh by the sultan. That was early in 1914,
before the Great War found Lawrence.
One of his first expeditions in the Near East was
for the Palestine Exploration Fund. Lawrence and
Woolley attempted to follow the footsteps of the
Israelites through the Wilderness. Along with other
discoveries they found what is believed to be the
Kadesh Barnea of the Bible, the historic spot where
Moses brought water gushing from the rock. First
they located a place in the Sinai Peninsula which the
Bedouin called Ain Kadis, where there was one in-
significant well; and perhaps it was there that the
Israelites began complaining to Moses regarding the
shortage of water.
"If that really was the place," remarked Law-
rence, "one could hardly blame the Israelites for
grousing."
30 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
Some five miles distant the two archaeologists came
upon a number of fine springs in a little valley called
Gudurat, and they are of the opinion that this was
where Moses succeeded in regaining the confidence of
the children of Israel, by quenching their thirst with
the sparkling waters of these springs. Later on
Woolley and Lawrence wrote a small book concerning
this expedition entitled, "The Wilderness of Sin."
In it they tell of finding traces of a civilization dating
back to 2500 B. c., the oldest traces of human habita-
tion ever discovered on the Sinai Peninsula.
Woolley has written a delightful book published
by the Oxford University Press entitled, "Dead
Towns and Living Men," in which he describes the
archaeological experiences of Lawrence and himself
before the World War. One story throws consid-
erable light on the differences between the methods of
these two men in dealing with the natives and the
tactics of the Germans at work on the Berlin-Bagdad
line :
Our house-boy, Ahmed, was coming back one day from
shopping in the village, and passed a gang of natives work-
Ing on the railway whose foreman owed him money. Ahmed
demanded payment of the debt, the foreman refused, and a
wordy wrangle followed. A German engineer on his rounds
saw that work was being hindered by an outsider, but in-
stead of just ordering him off, he called up the two soldiers
of his bodyguard, seized the unfortunate Ahmed, and with-
out any inquiry as to the origin of rights of the dispute, had
SEAUCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION 31
him soundly flogged. Ahmed returned to the house full of
woe, and as I was away Lawrence went up to the German
camp to seek redress.
He found Contzen and told him that one of his engineers
had assaulted our house-servant and must accordingly
apologize. Contzen pooh-poohed the whole affair, When
Lawrence showed him that he was in earnest, however, he
consented to make inquiries and sent for the engineer in
question. After talking to him he turned angrily on Law-
rence: "I told you the whole thing was a lie," he said;
"Herr X never assaulted the man at all ; he merely had
him flogged!"
"Well, don't you call that an assault?" asked Lawrence.
"Certainly not," replied the German. "You can't use
these natives without flogging them. We have men thrashed
every day ; it 's the only method."
"We 've been here longer than you have," Lawrence re-
torted, "and have never heaten one of our men yet, and we
don't intend to let you start on them. That engineer of
yours must come down with me to the village and apologize
to Ahmed in public."
Contzen laughed. "Nonsense!" he said, and then, turn-
ing his back ; "the incident is closed."
"On the contrary % " replied Lawrence, "if you don't do as
I ask I shall take the matter into my own hands."
Contzen turned round again. "Which means " he
asked.
"That I shall take your engineer down to the village and
there flog him!"
"You could n't and you dare n't do such a thing !" cried
the scandalized German; but Lawrence pointed out that
32 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
there was good reason for assuming that he both dared and
could ; and in the end the engineer had to make his apology
coram publico, to the vast amusement of the villagers.
For seven years Lawrence wandered up and down
the desert, often accompanied by Woolley but more
frequently alone in native garb. At one time the
British Museum sent him on a short expedition to the
interior of the island of Sumatra, where he had es-
capes from head-hunters almost as thrilling as his ad-
ventures in Arabia. But of these we could never
persuade him to speak. Some day, perhaps, he may
tell us of them in his memoirs.
I had often wondered why he had chosen Arabia as
the field for his archaeological work, instead of Egypt,
which is the Mecca and Medina for most men who
love to dig among the ruins of antiquity. His reply
was typical of him. He said:
"Egypt has never appealed to me. Most of the
important work there has been done; and most
Egyptologists to-day spend too much of their time
trying to discover just when the third whisker was
painted on the scarab 1"
'; .;; - , :C'V v y
A MUJBZZIN CALLING THE FAITHFUL TO PRAYER
** ;
I
p
S
CHAPTER III
THE ARCELaEOLOGIST TXJItNED SOLDIER
LORD KITCHENER'S advice and his own
personal observations led Lawrence to be-
lieve that a crash was imminent. TVTien it
came he at once attempted to enlist as a private in the
ranks of "Kitchener's Mob." But members of the
Army Medical Board looked at the frail, five-foot-
three, tow-headed youth, winked at one another, and
told him to run home to his mother and wait until
the next war. Just four years after he had been
turned down as physically unfit for the ranks, this
young Oxford graduate, small of stature, shy and
scholarly as ever, entered Damascus at the head of
his victorious Arabian army. Imagine what the
members of the medical board would have said if
some one had suggested to them in 1914 that three or
four years later this same young man would decline
knighthood and the rank of general and would even
avoid the coveted Victoria Cross and various other
honors 1
After his rejection Lawrence returned to his
ancient ruins and toiled lovingly over inscriptions
that unlocked the secrets of civilizations that flour-
ished and crumbled to dust thousands of years ago.
33
34 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
(
But, with many other scientists, scholars, and a few
young men of exceptional ability, such as Mark
Sykes, Aubrey Herbert, Cornwallis, Newcombe, and
others, he was summoned to headquarters in Cairo by
Sir Gilbert F. Clayton. Though he was then only
twenty-six years old, he was already familiar with
Turkey, Syria, Palestine, Arabia, Mesopotamia, anc 3
Persia. He had lived with the wild tribesmen of the
interior, as well as with the inhabitants of the princi^
pal cities such as Aleppo, Mosul, Bagdad, Beyrouth,
Jerusalem, and Damascus; in fact, his knowledge of
some parts of the Near East was unique. He not
only spoke many of the languages, but he knew the
customs of all the different nationalities and their
historical development. To begin with, he was
placed in the map department, where generals spent
hours poring over inaccurate charts, discussing plans
for piercing vulnerable spots in the Turkish armor *
After working out a scheme they would turn, not in-
frequently, and ask the insignificant-looking subal-
tern if, in view of his personal knowledge of the
country, he had any suggestion to offer. Not infre-
quently his reply would be :
"While there are many excellent points in your
plan, it is not feasible except at the expense of
great loss of time in building roads for transport of
supplies and artillery, and at needless expense of
lives in maintaining lines of communication through
the territory of hostile native tribes."
, ns an alternative, he would point out a safer
ARCHAEOLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER 35
and shorter route, with which he happened to be
familiar because he had tramped every inch of it afoot
while hunting for lost traces of the invading armies of
Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, and Crusaders. The
most staid old army officers on the staff put their con-
fidence in this quiet- voiced junior lieutenant, and in
a short time he had established a reputation for him-
self at G. H. Q.
Later on in Arabia, Lawrence frequently outwitted
the Turks because of this same superior knowledge
of the topography of the country. He was better ac-
quainted with many distant parts of the Turkish
Empire than were the Turks themselves.
From the map department he was transferred to
another branch of the Intelligence Service, which
dealt mainly with affairs inside the enemy lines. It
was his duty, as one of the heads of the Secret Corps,
to keep the commander-in-chief informed of the
movements of various units of the Turkish army.
Sir Archibald Murray, then head of the British
Forces in the Near East, has told me how highly he
valued the knowledge of this youth under whom were
the native secret agents who passed back and forth
through the Turkish lines.
It was in the summer of 1915 that the Hedjaz
Arabs broke out in revolt against their Turkish mas-<
ters in that part of the Arabian peninsula which lies
mainly between the Forbidden City of Mecca and the
southern end of the Dead Sea, known as Holy
Arabia.
36 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
In order to understand the reasons for the out*
break of this revolution, and in order to appreciate
the delicate and complicated problems which Law-
rence was to face upon his arrival in Arabia after the
Arabs had won a few initial victories and were con-
fronted with the probability of their revolt collaps-
ing, let us digress for a moment and glance in retro-
spect through the pages of Arabian history and
refresh our memories regarding the romantic story
of this historic peninsula and its picturesque peoples.
Legend tells us that Arabia was the home of our
common ancestors, Adam and Eve, the land of the
queen of Sheba, home of the heroes of "The Arabian
Nights, " and a country peopled by a race that lived
and hoped and loved before even the prehistoric
mound-builders dwelt on the plains of North Amer-
ica, and before the druids in woad built their rock
temples in Britain. Tradition tells us that it is a
land whose peoples founded empires centuries before
Moses led the children of Israel out of Egypt, per-
haps even before Khufu built the Great Pyramid.
Archaeologists, who have risked their lives to solve
Arabia's mysteries, tell us that great cities flourished
and fell there long before the days of Tut-ankh-
Amen and that in one distant corner of the country
the great King Hammurabi formulated his code of
justice long before Buddha taught on the banks of
the Ganges and before Confucius enunciated the
principle of the Golden Rule.
Jazirat-ul-Arab, the Peninsula of the Arabs, is
ARCHAEOLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER 37
larger than England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Hol-
land, Belgium, France, and Spain all combined. The
Greeks and Romans traded, fought, and studied there
and divided it into three geographical parts : Arabia
Petrasa to the north, Arabia Deserta to the east, and
Arabia Felix (Arabia the blest) to the west.
Although some scholars believe it to have been the
birthplace of the human race, we have better maps
of the north pole; in fact, we have better maps of
Mars than we have of some parts of the interior of
Arabia from whence came many of the fighting men
of Lawrence's army.
The distance from the city of Aleppp, at the ex-
treme north, to the city of Mecca, half-way down the
western coast of Arabia, is as great as the distance
from London to Rome. Yet Lawrence and his men
trekked all the way from Mecca to Aleppo on the
backs of camels, over country as barren as the moun-
tains of the moon.
In order to keep from becoming confused by the
strange Arabic names it would be well for the reader
to keep in mind that the Arabian campaign opened at
Mecca and moved steadily north to Akaba, and then
on to Damascus and Aleppo in Syria. Each event
described in this account is a little farther north than
the last.
Although some authorities on the Near East esti-
mate that there is a total population of twenty million
people in the whole of Arabia, for centuries a large
portion of them have been held together only by loose
38 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
travel alliances, like those which existed between the
Red Indian tribes of America a hundred years ago.
The peoples of Arabia since time immemorial have
been divided into two distinct classes : those who dwell
in villages and cities, and those who wander from
place to place with all their worldly possessions in
their camel-bags. Both classes are called Arabs, but
the wandering nomads are referred to as Bedouins
whenever it is desired to differentiate between them
and their kinsmen of the cultivated areas. The true
Bedouin knows nothing about the cultivation of land,
and his only animals are his camels and horses. The
Bedouins are the more admirable of the two. They
are the Arabs who have preserved the love of freedom
and the ancient virtues of this virile race.
The foremost of all Arabian travelers was an Eng-
lishman, Charles M. Doughty, poet, philosopher, and
author -of that great classic, "Arabia Deserta," writ-
ten in quaint Elizabethan style. With the exception
of Colonel Lawrence, he was the only European who
ever spent any considerable length of time traveling
about the interior of Holy Arabia without disguising
himself as a Mohammedan. Doughty found, what
all who know them have discovered, that the Bedouins
are kind hosts if visited in their camps. But fre-
quently the stranger who falls into their hands in the
desert, under circumstances which according to their
unwritten law do not cause them to regard him as a
guest, finds them ruthless. In savage wantonness
the Shammar Arabs may even cut his throat. There
ARCH^OLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER 39
is a proverb in the desert that a man will slay the son
of his mother for old shoe-leather; but, despite this,
their hospitality is so sweeping that it has become
proverbial throughout the world. "The Bedouin
says: 'Be we not all guests of Allah?' " Then adds
Doughty, "After the guests eat 'the bread and salt'
there is a peace established between them for a time
(that is counted two nights and a day, in the mos"
whilst their food is in him) ."
The word "Arab" comes from "Araba," the name
of a small territory in an ancient province south of the
Hedjaz, which is said to have been named after
Yarab, the son of Kahtan, the son of Abeis, the son
of Shalah, the son of Arfakhshad, the son of Shem,
the son of Noah, who they say was the first to speak
Arabic, "the tongue of the angels." They are a
Semitic people, of the same race as the Jews.
The world owes much to the Arabs. Not only did
they invent many of our boyhood games, such as the
humming top set spinning by pulling a cord, but they
made great strides in medicine, and their materia
jnedica was but little different from the modern.
Their highly skilled surgeons were performing diffi-
cult major operations with the use of anesthetics in
the day when Europe depended entirely upon the
miraculous healing of the clergy. In chemistry we
have them to thank for the discovery of alcohol, po-
tassium, nitrate of silver, corrosive sublimate, sul-
phuric acid, and nitric acid. They even had
experimented in scientific farming and understood
40 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
irrigation, the use of fertilizers, and such things as
the grafting of fruit and flowers. They were world-
famous for their tanning of leather, their dyeing of
cloth, their manufacture of glass and pottery, of
textiles, and of paper, and for their unsurpassed
workmanship in gold, silver, copper, bronze, iron, and
steel.
The richest part of Arabia, excluding Mesopo-
tamia, always has been, and still is, the province of
Yemen in the extreme southwestern corner, a moun-
tainous region just north of Aden, famous these
thousands of years for its wealth, its delightful cli-
mate, the fertility of its valleys, and as the home of
Mocha coffee. Strabo, the Greek geographer, tells
us that Alexander the Great, shortly before his death,
planned to return from India and there establish his
imperial capital. Many scholars believe this rich
region to have been the original habitation of man
and the country whence the early Egyptians came.
Beginning earlier than 1000 B. c., highly organized
monarchies existed here such as the Minaean, the
Sabsean, and the Himyaritic. After the destruction
of Jerusalem by Titus, many Jews fled here, and their
quaint descendants still reside in Yemen. But when
the Ptolemies introduced the sea-route to India, the
Yemen became less important, and for centuries the
best-known part of Arabia has been the province of
Hedjaz on the Red Sea, north of Yemen, bounded on
the east by the Central Arabian region known as
Nejd, and on the northeast and north by Syria, the
ARCHAEOLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER 41
Dead Sea, Palestine, and the Sinai Peninsula. The
word "Hedjaz" or "Hijaz" means "barrier." The
fame of this particularly waterless country is due to
its two chief cities: Mecca, the birthplace of Mo-
hammed, in olden times called Macoraba; and Me-
dina, the ancient Yathrib, where the Prophet spent
the last ten years of his life and where he was interred.
It is the duty of all Moslems who can afford it to
make a pilgrimage to these sacred cities, just as it
was the duty of the people to journey here in idola-
trous pre-Islamic times.
About a thousand years before Columbus dis-
covered America, a boy was born in the city of Mecca.
This boy was destined to shape very materially the
history of the world. As a youth he herded goats
and sheep on the hills around Mecca, and then as a
young man he hired himself out as a camel-driver to
a rich widow in Mecca. He used to drive her camel
caravans up to Syria to trade with rich merchants
there. In Syria he became better acquainted with
the religions of the Jews and the Christians and be-
came convinced that his fellow- Arabs, who were wor-
shipers of idols, did not possess a true religion. So
this camel-driver appropriated some of the tenets of
Christianity, some of the principles of Judaism, a few
scraps of philosophy from the Persian fire-worshipers,
a sprinkling of Arabian tradition, then threw in a
number of his own ideas for good measure, and es-
tablished a new religion. He encouraged his fol-
lowers to regard Adam, Abraham, Moses, and Christ
42 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
as prophets of Islam. To-day, however, they are
looked upon as of infinitely less importance than Mo-
hammed himself, whose teachings are regarded as a
later and final revelation of the will of God. Nearly
every family in Arabia has at least one child named
after the Prophet. There are more men in the world
bearing the given name "Mohammed" than there are
with such names as "John" and "William."
Is it so strange, after all, that the desert should be
the old homestead of three of the world's greatest
religions Judaism, Christianity, and Mohammedan-
ism? The Arabs call the desert the Garden of Allah ;
they say there is no one in the desert but God. Out
in the deserts of Arabia, even more than in many
other parts of the world, "The heavens declare the
glory of God ; and the firmament sheweth His handy-
work. Day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto
night sheweth knowledge." There is no striving in
the desert to amass wealth for wealth's sake ; there is
no mad rush to get ahead of one's fellow-men. One
of the curses of our modern civilization is that we do
not have time to think or meditate. The desert is a
fitting place for one to ponder over man's destiny and
to meditate upon the things that moth and rust do not
corrupt and that thieves do not break through and
steal.
Mohammed, the camel-boy of Mecca, was the first
man to bind together in any sort of unity the peoples
of Arabia. He came at the opportune time when a
(Treat leader was needed to drive out foreign domina*
ARCHAEOLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER 43
tion. It was by his amazing evangelization that he
succeeded in uniting the Arabs. To an even greater
degree than most leaders of men this camel-boy of
Mecca had:
The Monarch mind, the mystery of commanding,
The birth-hour gift, the art Napoleon,
Of wielding, moulding, gathering, welding, bending.
The hearts of thousands till they moved as one.
Following the death of Mohammed came that great
wave of fanatical fury when the Arabian peoples,
filled with religious fervor, swept out of the desert,
overran a great part of the world, and built up that
huge Moslem Empire which was even greater than
the empire of the Romans. In those triumphant
days of Islam, the Arabs supplied the dominant re-
ligious, political, and military leaders for all the coun-
tries they conquered. They seemed irresistible.
"When the Arabs, who had fed on locusts and wild
honey, once tasted the delicacies of civilization in
Syria, and reveled in the luxurious palaces of the
Khosroes," writes El Tabari, the Moslem historian,
"they said, 'By Allah, even if we cared not to fight
for the cause of God, yet we could not but wish to con-
tend and enjoy these, leaving distress and hunger
henceforth to others.' " Within a century after the
death of Mohammed the Hedjaz Arabs had built up
an empire vaster than either that of Alexander or of
Rome; "Islam swept across the world like a whirl-
wind."
44 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
But the vast empire reached its zenith in the
seventh century of this era, and its decline dates from
the battle of Tours, A. D. 732, when the Arabs were
defeated in France by the Christians under Charles
Martel.
Many of the Arabs remained in the lands they had
conquered. As merchants and missionaries they
have carried the crisp, brief creed of Mohammed
from Arabia to Gibraltar, Central Africa, Central
China, and the islands of the South Seas. Unlike
followers of other faiths, they shout their creed from
the minarets and housetops of every land where they
are to be found: "La-ilahu ilia Allah! Allahu Ak-
bar!"
And even to-day we find thousands of Arabs oc-
cupying positions of affluence in far-off Hong-Kong,
Singapore, the East Indies, and Spain. The others
drifted back to their old life in the Arabian Desert.
Once more Arabia stood isolated from the world by
the barren mountain ranges which fringe its coasts
and by its trackless belts of shifting sand. In the
twelfth century the descendants of Saladin, who was
half Kurd, conquered the fringes of Arabia. Then
three centuries later a new tribe swept down from the
unknown plateaus of Central Asia. They were of
the tribe of Othman, forefathers of the modern
Turks, and they attempted to govern the Arabs as
though they were a people of an inferior race. The
Turks claimed possession of Arabia for four hundred
years, simply because they were able to maintain a
ARCHAEOLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER 45
few garrisons along the coast. A few of these gar-
risons were successful in holding out to the very end
of the Great War, but at last they surrendered, leav-
ing Arabia once again in the undisputed possession of
its freedom-loving inhabitants.
The Hedjaz tribes have never acknowledged the
sovereignty of any foreign ruler. They have pre-
served their liberty with but little interruption since
prehistoric times, and consequently they regard their
personal freedom above all else. Great armies have
been sent against them, but not even the Assyrians,
the Medes, the Persians, the Greeks, or the Romans
were able to conquer them.
Ever since the decline of the Arabian Empire,
more than a thousand years ago, generals, sultans,
and califs have attempted to unify the peoples of
Arabia, and particularly of the province of Hedjaz,
because it contains the two sacred Mohammedan
cities. None were successful, but where they failed,
Thomas Edward Lawrence, the unknown unbeliever,
succeeded. It remained for this youthful British
archaeologist to go into forbidden Arabia and lead the
Arabs through the spectacular and triumphant cam-
paign which helped Allenby break the backbone of
the Turkish Empire and destroy the
The way in which he
swept the Turks from Holy Arabia and temporarily
built this mosaic of peoples into a homogeneous na-
tion, now known as the Kingdom of the Hedjaz, is a
story that I should have failed to believe had I not
46 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
visited Arabia and come into personal contact with
Lawrence and his associates during their campaign.
Perhaps no factor played a greater part in simpli-
fying Lawrence's task in Arabia than the existence
of an ancient desert fraternity which has been called
"the cult of the Blood of Mohammed." We must
know something about this cult and its present-day
leaders in order to understand the diplomacy and
strategy of Colonel Lawrence which we are to follow
during the desert war.
CHAPTER IV
THE CULT OF THE BLOOD OF MOHAMMED
DURING the long centuries of uncertain
Turkish rule, there had persisted, in the
sacred cities of the Hedjaz, "the cult of the
Blood of Mohammed," with its membership limited
to descendants of the Prophet. These people were
called shereef s or nobles by the other Arabs, and they
had never lost their hatred for the Turks, whom they
regarded as intruders. So powerful was this cult
that the Ottoman Government could not destroy it.
However, when shereefs living within reach of the
string of fortified Turkish posts along the fringe of
the desert protested openly against Ottoman tyranny,
the sultan usually "invited" them to come and reside
near him in Constantinople. There they would
either remain as virtual prisoners or quietly be put
out of the way. Abdul Hamid, the last great sultan,
was an expert in following this private policy of his
predecessors, and among the prominent Arabs he
found it the better part of discretion to have near him
at the Sublime Porte was one Shereef Hussein of
Mecca. He was the oldest living descendant of Mo-
hammed and was therefore believed by many to be
the man really entitled to the calif ate, the spiritual
47
48 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
and temporal head of Islam. The title of calif had
originally been given only to the lineal descendants
of Mohammed but later had been usurped by the
Turks.
No people in the world take more pride in their
ancestry than the Arabs. The births of all the lead-
ing princely families are recorded in Mecca at the
mosque built around the black stone which millions'
of people regard as the most sacred spot in the world*
Here, on a scroll of parchment, is inscribed the name
of Hussein Ibn Ali, direct lineal descendant of Mo-
hammed through his daughter Fatima and her eldest
son Hassan.
When King Hussein was young, he had too much
spirit to live tamely with his family in Mecca. In-
stead, he roamed the desert with the Bedouins and
took part in all their raids and tribal wars. His
mother was a Circassian, and much of his vigor is in-
herited from her. Abdul Hamid, the Red Sultan,
received many disturbing reports regarding the wild
life led by this independent shereef . Abdul had two
ways of dealing with a man whom he feared or dis-
trusted. He would either tie him in a sack and throw
him into the Bosporus or keep him in Constantinople
under close personal observation. Although he was
afraid that Hussein might conspire against him, the
fact that Hussein was a direct descendant of Moham-
med made it difficult for old Abdul to chuck him into
the Bosporus. So he gave him a pension and a little
house on the Golden Horn, where the shereef and his
-
fc
o
SUNSET OVER THE FORT AT AKABA
CULT OF BLOOD OF MOHAMMED 49
family were compelled to live for eighteen years.
When the revolution of the Young Turks came in
1912 and Abdul was overthrown, all political pris-
oners were released from Constantinople, and Hus-
sein and other Arab Nationalist leaders thought they
saw the dawn of a new era of freedom and liberty.
In fact, they too had assisted the Young Turks in
overthrowing the old regime. But their hopes were
soon dispelled, for the new Committee of Unity and
Progress rashly set out to Ottomanize all the peoples
of that complex of races which made up the Turkish
Empire. They even went so far as to insist that the
Arabs should give up their beautiful language "the
tongue of the angels" and substitute the corrupt
Ottoman dialect. It was not long before Hussein
discovered that the Committee of Unity and Prog-
ress, headed by Enver, Talaat, and Djemal, was far
more tyrannical than old Abdul in his bloodiest mo-
ments. They now looked back on the villainous Ab-
dul as a harmless old gentleman in comparison with
his successors. The Young Turks even suggested
that in the Koran Turkish heroes should be sub-
stituted for the ancient patriarchs. Words of Ara-
bic origin were deleted from the Turkish vocabulary.
In Mecca the exaggerated story was told that the
Turks were reverting to the ancient heathenism of
Othman and that soldiers in Constantinople were re-
quired to pray to the White Wolf, a deity of the
barbaric days before the Ottoman horde left its early
home in the wilds of Central Asia.
50 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
Although the Arab leaders despaired of seeing a
happier day for their country, Shereef Hussein and
his sons concealed their hatred for the autocratic
triumvirate and the whole Young Turk party. Be-
cause of the help he had given the triumvirate before
he was disillusiond as to their real aims, they granted
him the title of Keeper of the Holy Places of Islam,
or the sixty-sixth Emir of Mecca of the Ottoman
period.
Miss Gertrude Bell, the only woman staff captain
in the British army and one of the foremost au-
thorities on Near Eastern affairs, in a letter to "The
Times" of London declared that the Arab Nationalist
movement was given vitality by the Young Turks,
who as soon as they came into power changed their
whole attitude.
"Liberty and equality are dangerous words to play
with in an empire composed of divergent national-
ities," wrote Miss Bell. "Of these the Arabs, adapt-
able and quick-witted, proudly alive to their tradi-
tions of past glory as founders of Islam, and
upholders for 700 years of the authority of the
Khilafat, were the first to claim the translation of
promise into performance, and in the radiant dawn of
the constitutional era the Arab intelligentsia eagerly
anticipated that their claim would be recognised. If
the Turks had responded with a genuine attempt to
allow Arab culture to develop along its own lines
nmder their aegis, the Ottoman Empire might have
taken on new life, but their inelastic mentality pre-
CULT OF BLOOD OF MOHAMMED 5}
eluded them from embracing the golden opportunity.
Moreover, Prussian militarism made to them a pe-
culiarly powerful, and, if the political configuration
of their Empire be considered, a peculiarly dangerous
appeal. The Committee of Union and Progress was
determined to hack its way through the sensibilities of
subject races, and, not content with this formidable
task, by neglecting the cautious diplomatic methods
of Abdul Hamid it found itself involved in a dis-
astrous and debilitating struggle with its neighbour
States in Europe.
"Before the war of 1914 broke out, not only were
the Arab provinces filled with hatred and desire for
vengeance . . ."
In the luxurious atmosphere of the Ottoman me-
tropolis Hussein's four sons quite naturally had
grown up more like young Turkish bloods than Arab
youths. They had spent most of their time rowing
on the Bosporus and attending court balls. For six
years, Prince Feisal had acted as private secretary to
Abdul Hamid. When the Grand Shereef returned
to Mecca he immediately summoned his four sons and
informed them that they were altogether too effete
and too accustomed to the soft ways of Stamboul to
suit him. " Constantinople and its accursed life of
luxury are now behind thee. Praise be to Allah!
Henceforth thou art to make thy home under the
canopy of heaven with thy brothers of the black tents
in order that the glory of our house may not be dis-
graced, Allahu Akbar!" So saying the aged emir
52 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
fitted the deed to the word and ordered them out to
patrol the pilgrim routes. These routes are mere
camel-tracks across the burning sands connecting the
Red Sea coast with Mecca, the Holy City, and the
summer capital of Taif, and between Medina and
Mecca. With each of his sons he sent a company of
his best fighting men. They were not even permitted
to use tents but were compelled to sleep in their
cloaks. They spent their days chasing robbers.
The worst robbers in the desert are the men of the
Harith clan, some one hundred outlaws, nearly all
of them banished members of Shereefian families.
These men of Harith had entrenched themselves in a
naturally fortified village fifty miles northeast of
Mecca. Expeditions against them and other bandits
developed Hussein's sons into self-reliant, capable
leaders. That Emir Feisal is such a prominent
figure in the Near East to-day is not entirely because
of his royal blood but partly because he excels in ways
which make for leadership in the Arabian Desert.
These are not a knowledge of bridge or Browning!
Ali, the eldest son, is a small, thin, well-groomed
prince. He has delightful manners, great personal
charm, and is an accomplished diplomat. He is
deeply religious, the essence of generosity, and a
martinet on all questions of morality. Like the
other members of his family he has far-reaching
views and aspirations for his country. But he has
no personal aspirations beyond the emirate of
Mecca, to which he will, in all probability, fall heir at
CULT OF BLOOD OF MOHAMMED 58
the death of his father. Abdullah, the second son, is
ambitious and vigorous but is not quite such an ideal-
ist. At the termination of the war he became the
ruler of Trans j or dania, with a famous English trav-
eler by the name of St. John Philby as his adviser.
The youngest member of the family, Prince Zeid, is
half Turk. There is not so much of the Oriental about
him, and when the revolt was at its height he still
lacked the seriousness of his older brothers. This
youth left such solid enthusiasms as Arab nationalism
to the rest of his family and devoted himself to fight-
ing and to the lighter joys of life, as one would expect
from a normal prince in his early twenties. He is
nevertheless rich in common sense. Zeid loves hunt-
ing, riding, and dancing. After the Arabs and An-
zacs took Damascus he jazzed all over the city until
Feisal convinced him that he should conduct himself
with greater dignity. He also is a man of consid-
erable charm and, if his ambition to attend Oxford is
realized, may yet prove himself the ablest of an illus-
trious family.
Feisal, third and best known of Hussein's four
sons, is an idealist. Although modest and reserved,
he is a man of great personality. Every Arab is a
born diplomat, and Feisal is well above the average.
Children of the desert have few games. They do
not know how to play as our Western children do.
Life is a serious and sober affair from the moment
the Arab baby opens his eyes on the woman's side of
the black tent. As soon as he is able to crawl, he
54 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
comes into the tribal council. His only school is the
coffee hearth; his only education consists in the hand-
ling of men and camels.
Emir Feisal began life as a dirty little shepherd
boy. His mother was an Arab girl of Mecca and a
cousin of his father. When Feisal was a little baby,
Shereef Hussein sent him into the desert to live with
a Bedouin tribe, because it is considered more benefi-
cial for a boy to grow up in the open desert country
than in a city or village. Later, in Constantinople,
Feisal contracted consumption, but since then the
desert has ured him. He is still very thin, however,
and measures only twenty-one inches around the
waist. He smokes cigarettes day and night and eats
sparingly. Among the tribes he is considered an un-
usually fine shot and good horseman and an excellent
camel-rider. Feisal is enlightened and thoroughly
modern in his views, and Colonel Lawrence, who
knows him better than any one else, declares that he
is as honest as daylight. His people follow him not
through fear but because they admire him and love
him. He is much too kind and liberal-minded to
rule as an Oriental despot of the old school. Given
the opportunity, he may be depended upon to do his
utmost to usher in an entirely new order of things
for his people.
Certain statesmen of world prominence choose de-
tective stories for their moments of relaxation ; Prince
Feisal, in the lull between campaigns, refreshed him-
self for renewed battle and the cares of state with
CULT OF BLOOD OF MOHAMMED 55
classical Arabic poetry. His favorite poet is Imr el
Kais, the most renowned of all Arab bards, who lived
just before Mohammed, and who wrote about camels,
the desert, and love. Among Feisal's other favorites
are Ibn Isham, Ibn el Ali, Zuhair, Zaraf a, Al Harith,
and Mutanabbi, great writers of the Middle Ages,
when Arabian learning and culture penetrated to the
most remote corners of Europe. Mutanabbi's coup-
let must have struck a responsive chord in Feisal's
heart :
Night and my steed and the desert know me
And the lance thrust and battle, and parchment and pen.
I also saw him frequently reading the works of An-
tara, the famous poet who wrote a huge epic of his
own life filled with tales of raids and love lyrics.
The recent war of liberation inspired many new poets
to arouse the people by means of patriotic songs.
Even the humblest camel-driver improvised songs
built around Lawrence, Feisal, and that celebrated
warrior, Auda Abu Tayi.
Poetry, song, and proverb all exalt the virtue 01
hospitality among the Arabs. An Arab, from Hus-
sein down to the humblest of his subjects, will risk
his own life rather than allow any harm to befall a
guest, even if the latter happens to be his worst
enemy. For many months prior to the outbreak of
the Arabian revolution, Shereef Hussein and his sons
were secretly preparing for it, while leading the
Turks to believe that they were mobilizing against
56 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
the Allies. Emir Feisal happened to be in Damascus
during this period as the guest of Djemal Pasha, the
Turkish viceroy of Syria and Palestine. His father
sent word to him that he had succeeded in gathering
together a number of tribes for an attack on the
Turkish garrison at Medina; so Feisal excused him-
self on some pretext and said he must return south.
Djemal urged him to delay his departure for a few
days, saying that he and Enver Pasha would like to
accompany him to Medina. When Feisal arrived
at Medina with Djemal and Enver, they attended a
review of over five thousand Arab tribesmen who
whirled by on camels and horses, firing their rifles
into the air. The two members of the Turkish
triumvirate were delighted with the warlike display
and told Feisal that his men would be of great assist-
ance to the sultan and his illustrious fellow-
Mohammedan ruler, Kaiser William Pasha, in their
war against the Unbeliever.
That night, during the usual banquet, Ali Ibn
Hussein, of the robber Harith clan, and a number of
other shereefs and sheiks stole up to Feisal and
whispered:
"We have the palace surrounded and are going to
kill these Turkish dogs."
Realizing that his followers were in dead earnest,
Feisal waved them aside for the moment and, turning
to Djemal and Enver, said:
"Now, gentlemen, according to our custom, after
CULT OF BLOOD OF MOHAMMED 57
a banquet of this kind, you must spend the night in
my house."
Feisal then established his guests in his own room
and slept outside the door all night. Without leav-
ing them for a single moment, he took them to the
' train the next morning and accompanied them on
their three-day journey to Damascus. This required
no little nerve, for if Djemal and Enver had sus-
pected that anything was wrong in Medina and that
the Arabs did not intend to cooperate with Turkey
and Germany in the war, they would either have
killed Feisal or held him as a hostage to guarantee
the good behavior of his father.
An Arabian banquet is an occasion to be remem-
bered. After the war King Hussein entertained at
the Belediyah, the town-hall of Jeddah, in honor of
Prince Georges Lotfallah of Egypt. Rows and
rows of small tables were placed end to end and then
piled high with food until they groaned under the
weight. Eighty guests were served at one sitting,
and the waiters walked up and down on top of the
tables, looking down at you. If your plate was not
full they would slice off a slab of sheep or goat and
then step over the cake and attend to your neighbor.
After the first eighty had dined, the next sitting was
served in like manner.
CHAPTER V
THE FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA
WHEN the World War pulled Turkey into
the maelstrom, with Great Britain,
France, Russia, and Italy pitted against
her, it was the hour of opportunity for Arabia.
Unable to obtain sufficient funds and ammunition,
Shereef Hussein was compelled to let many months
pass by without declaring himself. Then came
the news of the surrender of Kut el Amara by
General Townsend. This was a serious reverse for
the Allies and an important victory for the Turks.
Hussein could no longer hold his followers. He
sent word to the British Government that he could
not stand by and permit his people to remain sub-
ject to the Turks. He asked for assistance, but be-
fore receiving a reply, with all the pent-up fury and
hatred of five hundred years of oppression and dis-
honor, the Arabs of the Hedjaz leaped at the throats
of the Turks. From all parts of the desert came
the swarthy, lean, picturesque sons of Ishmael to
avenge and free themselves at last.
Hussein and his four sons had worked out all the
details of their plan for the revolution, but kept them
secret until a few weeks before they touched off the
58
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 59
fuse. They did not even dare to trust their close as-
sociates, because in Turkish territory plots were
usually discovered before they matured, and no man
knew whom he could trust. Not only were there
spies but innumerable spies on spies.
Early in 1916, when Lieutenant Lawrence was
making a reputation for himself with the Secret
Corps in Cairo, Grand Shereef Hussein sent word to
all the tribes of Holy Arabia to be ready at a mo-
ment's notice. Then, on June 9, he gave the signal.
At the same instant he himself publicly denounced
Enver, Talaat, Djemal, and their infamous Com-
mittee of Unity and Progress. Simultaneous at-
tacks were launched against Mecca, Jeddah, the sea-
port to the holy city, and Medina, three of the least
known and most interesting cities in the world. And
before we continue to the point in the Arab Revolt
where Lawrence made his entrance, let us stop and
see these centers of life in the Hedjaz whence came so
many of Lawrence's associates.
When you land at Jeddah you blink your eyes and
pinch yourself to see if you are awake. The Koran
forbids the use of intoxicating liquors, but either the
architects who designed this city were not faithful
Mussulmans or most of the buildings were con-
structed before Mohammed introduced prohibition
into Arabia. The streets of Jeddah are a bewil-
dering maze of narrow zigzag canons between tall
Ottering houses, which look as though they had been
SO WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
joggled about by incessant earthquakes. Many of
the houses are of five and six stories and are used only
for the accommodation of pilgrims who pass through
on their way to Mecca during Ramadan, a time when
the population of the city increases from twenty
thousand to perhaps one hundred thousand. The
most fitting way I can think of describing this weird
Arabian seaport is to say that it looks like any or-
dinary Oriental city might look to a man suffering
from delirium tremens. The Leaning Tower of Pisa
would be in an appropriate setting if it were trans-
ferred to Jeddah. Symmetry seems to be an un-
known quantity in this part of the Near East. It is
said that an Arab carpenter cannot draw a right
angle, and an Arab waiter never puts a table-cloth on
square. The sacred shrine of the Mohammedans in
Mecca, known as the Kaaba, meaning "cube," has
none of its sides or angles equal. Arab streets are
seldom parallel, and even "the street that is called
straight" in Damascus is not straight! Jeddah, with
its inebriated buildings, its crazy fragile balconies, its
leaning minarets, its lazy Arab merchants squatting
cross-legged on top of tables in front of chaotic shops,
its fantastic arcaded bazaars covered in with patch-
work roofs pieced together like the sails of a Chinese
junk, is the nearest approach to a futurist paradise of
any city in the world.
Arabia is indeed a topsyturvy land. Where we
measure most of our liquids and weigh most of our
solids, they weigh their liquids and measure their
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 61
solids. Where we use knives and forks and spoons,
they use their hands. Where we use tables and chairs
they recline on the floor. Where we mount from the
left, they mount their camels and horses from the
right. We read from left to right, while they read
from right to left. The desert-dweller keeps his
head covered in the summer and winter alike, and his
feet usually unprotected. Where we take off our
hats in entering a friend's house, they take off their
shoes.
In addition to its Arab population, Jeddah is in-
habited by the remnants of a thousand pilgrimages,
descendants of pilgrims who had sufficient money to
enable them to reach Mecca but not enough to enable
them to leave Arabia after fulfilling their religious
vows. Many of them are poverty-stricken and
barely able to eke out a living at the odd jobs which
they get during the short pilgrimage season each
year. Among them are Javanese, Filipinos, Malays,
representatives of a dozen different Indian races,
Kurds, Turks, Egyptians, Sudanese, Abyssinians,
Senegalese, tribesmen from the Sahara, Zanzibaris,
Yemenites, Somalis, and numerous others.
One afternoon, accompanied by Major Goldie, an
officer attached to the British mission which had its
headquarters there during the campaign, I rode out
through the Mecca gate to the Abyssinian quarter.
The dwellings of these primitive people are round
huts with conical thatched roofs, surrounded by high
kraal fences made of rusty petrol and preserved-meat
62 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
tins. We pulled up our ponies in front of a hut
where a negro woman was busy tanning a hide. The
moment she saw us she began screaming: "Oh, why
have you come to destroy my home? Oh, why are
you going to carry away my child? Oh ! Oh ! Oh !
What have I done that you should want to shoot me?"
Although Goldie did his best to reassure her, she con-
tinued this wail until we rode out of hearing.
On either side of Jeddah, a few miles distant, are
small ports which foreigners scrupulously avoid visit-
ing. Tourists have never been welcome because these
villages for many years have been slave-trading cen-
ters, Here negroes, smuggled across from the Af-
rican coast, were sold to wealthy Arabs. The Turk-
ish Government winked at this vicious commerce, but
King Hussein is vigorously endeavoring to stamp it
out. As a result of Hussein's stand on the slavery
question, the price of a well-built young negro has
advanced from the pre-war quotation of 50 to ,300
or even as high as 500. Although the trade may
continue surreptitiously for a short time, the king and
his sons are so bitterly opposed to it that it is only a
question of months until they will have driven it out.
Beyond the north gate of the Jeddah wall Major
Goldie took me to see what thousands of Moham-
medans believe to be the tomb of the common ancestor
of us all. There is a century-old tradition to the ef-
fect that it was here near Jeddah that the ark
grounded after the Great Flood. According to one
version of the story, on his six hundred and first birth*
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 63
day, not long after the waters had abated, Noah and
his three sons, Shem, Ham, and Japheth, were walk-
ing along the beach when they came to a depression
in the sand. This depression seemed to resemble a
human form. It was about three hundred feet long.
Ham asked his father what he thought it could be,
and the venerable patriarch replied, "Ham, my lad,
that is the last resting-place of Mother Eve." Of
course there are many educated Mohammedans who
laugh at this legend, but, nevertheless, a wall three
hundred feet long has been built around the supposed
depression, and within this inclosure is a white mosque
where thousands of women worship every year.
They believe Mother Eve was three hundred feet in
height. Just think how the rest of us must have de-
generated! But the city takes its name from thisr
tomb, for the word "Jeddah" means grandmother or
ancestress.
Since the time of Mohammed, no Jews, Christians,
followers of Zoroaster, or other \mbelievers, have been
welcome anywhere in the Hedjaz except along the
coast. None but the faithful are even allowed to
go beyond the Jeddah wall through the east gate,
which leads in the direction of Mecca. The British
officers who were stationed in Jeddah from the out-
break of the revolution until the end of the war
scrupulously observed this unwritten law. During
the campaign no Allied representatives ever visited
the forbidden capital of the king of the Hedjaz at
any rate not officially or for publication. King Hus-
64 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
sein even went so far as to request the British author
ities to instruct all officers piloting seaplanes attached
to war-ships cruising in the Red Sea under no cir-
cumstances to profane the air by flying over either
Mecca or Medina.
This very day millions of Moslems are turning
their faces five times toward Mecca and declaring
over and over again:
"La ilaha Allah wa Muhammad-ar-rasul Allah!
There is but one God, Allah, and Mohammed is His
Prophet."
Mecca and Medina, its sister metropolis of the
desert, are the two most mysterious cities in the world.
Any man in the vicinity of either who declared that
Christ was the son of God would be torn to pieces.
Since the time of Mohammed, Mecca and Medina
have been forbidden to all but Moslems. In fact,
the fanatical followers of the founder of Islam would
destroy any intruder whom they even suspected of
being an unbeliever. For this reason all conferences
between King Hussein and the representatives of the
British and French Governments were held in
Jeddah.
We have a record of only a dozen or so Christians
who have visited Mecca during the past one thousand
years and lived to tell the tale. The most cele-
brated of these, of course, was Sir Richard Burton.
Fewer still have visited Medina. At the end of the
eighteenth century a puritanical and fanatical sect
from Central Arabia called the Wahabis overran the
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 65
Hedjaz and captured Mecca. They were driven out
by an Egyptian army under Mohammed AH, and for
a time an adventurer and ex-sergeant in the Black
Watch had the unique honor of acting as governor
of Medina and guardian of the tomb of the Prophet.
Not only do all Mohammedans turn toward Mecca
to pray, because it was the birthplace of their
Prophet, but many of them build their houses, and
even their outhouses, facing Mecca; and when they
die they are buried facing Mecca.
Mohammed enjoined his followers to make pil-
grimages to Mecca. He advocated this in order to
satisfy the pagans of Arabia, who had been doing it
for centuries. The city has no economic importance,
but the pilgrims who go there each year during the
month of Zu el Hajz are a source of income to its
one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants.
Tens of thousands of pilgrims visit Mecca an*
nually, although for many who come from far-off
lands two years are required to make the trip.
The region about Mecca is all holy. Pilgrims are
not permitted to disturb the wild animals nor even to
cut the thorns or desert herbs. The holy city of
Islam is located in a narrow pocket between the hills
where two valleys join. Three forts frown down
upon Mecca from the heights and were occupied by
Turkish troops until King Hussein's followers drove
them out.
In the center of Mecca is the Great Mosque, which
was built as a place of pagan worship many centuries
66 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
before the birth of Mohammed. It is known as the
Mosque of the Kaaba or Mas j id Al Haram, which
means "the sacred temple." Within the courtyard
is a small cube-shaped building, the famous Kaaba.
It is covered over with a gorgeous holy carpet of
black silk with a wide border of gold lettering, texts
from the Koran. The roof is supported by pillars of
aloe wood. Around the edge is a spout of gold,
which carries off rain-water. Embedded in one of
the walls is the most sacred object in the world to
more than two hundred millions of people. It is the
black stone of meteoric origin which the Mohammed-
ans believe was tossed down from heaven by the
Angel Gabriel to Father Abraham. They say it was
once whiter than milk but that it has been turned
black by the sins of the people who have kissed it.
Others say that it derived its color from Adam's tears.
It has been broken in seven pieces, and its parts are
now held together by a background of cement sur-
rounded by a silver band studded with silver nails.
The followers of the Prophet believe that this cube-
shaped building rests directly underneath the throne
of God. They say it was lowered down from heaven
at the request of Adam and that it is an exact dupli-
cate of one that he had seen in paradise before his
expulsion, called Beit al Mamur, and frequented by
angels. Very few people ever enter the Kaaba, but
those who do keep their eyes down in an attitude of
reverence and humble submission to divine power,
If a pilgrim from Syria enters it, for the rest of his
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 67
life he never goes barefoot, because he believes that
his skin has touched holy ground and therefore must
never be placed on profane earth again.
The holy carpet which covers the Kaaba is replaced
each year by a new one. Formerly there were two
sent each year, one of which came down from Damas-
cus from the sultan of Turkey, while the other was
made in Cairo and presented to the mosque by the
sultan of Egypt. When a new one is put up, the old
one is cut into bits by the pilgrims, who take the
pieces home for souvenirs.
According to tradition, from the dawn of creation
to judgment day at least one pilgrim is always sup-
posed to be engaged in walking seven times around
the Kaaba. But about every twenty years great
floods come and fill all the streets of Mecca, including
the mosque, and when these floods occur men are
hired to swim around it day and night in order that
the ceremony may never be interrupted.
The pilgrims kiss the black stone, run around the
building seven times, take a drink from a holy well
called Zem Zem, and kiss the stone again. Sir
Richard Burton said that when he tried to kiss the
black stone he found himself in a milling throng of
religious devotees, each of whom was trying to force
his way through the crowd in order that he might
press his lips against the most sacred object in the
*rorld. He said that these religious enthusiasts were
all calling out their prayers in loud voices, and be-
tween sentences of their prayers they would stop and
68 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
curse the man who was elbowing them away from the
black stone.
The most important well in Mecca is this well of
Zem Zem in the courtyard of the mosque. The
' water in it is slightly brackish but is said to be delight-
ful when one becomes accustomed to using it. The
well is eight feet wide and quite deep. According
to Moslem tradition one of the direct routes to heaven
is through the bottom of this well. The pilgrims
from India, who take such superstitions literally, fre-
quently threw themselves into the well, making the
water undrinkable for days. In fact, so many people
tried the short cut to paradise that it became neces-
sary to stretch a net over the bottom to break their
faU.
There is an ancient tradition among Mohammed-
ans that the approach of the day of resurrection
will be indicated by the sun rising in the west and
by the appearance of a monster which will rise out of
the earth in the courtyard of the Mas j id Al Haram.
This beast is to be sixty cubits in height, just twice
as high as the Lord commanded Noah to make the
ark. It is to be a complex combination of eleven
different animals, having the head of a bull, the eyes
of a hog, the ears of an elephant, the horns of a stag,
the neck of a giraffe, the breast of a lion, the color
of a tiger, the back of a cat, the tail of a ram, the
legs of a camel, and the voice of an ass. She is to
bring with her the rod of Moses and the seal of Solo-
mon, So swift will be this monster that none will
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 69
escape. With the rod of Moses she will smite all
true believers on the cheek, branding them with a
mark which will indicate that they are of the faithful.
Unbelievers will be stamped with the seal of King
Solomon. It is also believed that this strange beast
will speak Arabic. After the appearance of this
mammoth creature all mortals who have inhabited the
earth since the dawn of creation will be required to
cross a valley on a hair, from which the iniquitous
will tumble off into the fires of hell, while the pure
in heart will cross safely into paradise. There are
many different versions of this tradition which were
believed in by the adherents of other religions long
before the time of Mohammed.
Among other signs believed by some to be indica-
tions of the approach of the day of resurrection are a
war with the Turks ; the advancement of the meanest
to positions of dignity and power; the coming of
Antichrist from Khorasan, mounted on an ass and
followed by seventy thousand Jews; the return of
Jesus, who certain Mohammedans believe will em-
brace the Mohammedan religion, marry a wife, slay
Antichrist, and rule the earth in peace and security;
and the bestowal of the power of speech on all ani-
mals, birds, fishes, reptiles, and inanimate things.
Until recently Mecca was, perhaps, the most evil
and licentious city in the world. "The holier the city,
the wickeder its people," runs the Arab proverb. A
block away from the Holy Kaaba stands the slave-
market, which was closed not long ago by Hussein.
70 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
There were in the city of Mecca until recently, and
perhaps still are, many women who are legally mar-
ried and divorced almost monthly, and sometimes
semi-monthly. A pilgrim arriving at Mecca, before
King Hussein's puritanical regime, could be legally
married during the time he was a resident and per-
forming his religious rites. He could then have his
marriage legally dissolved when he left the city.
The people of Mecca do not shar,e those fine primitive
virtues and simplicity of tastes which have made the
Bedouins famous. Since olden times those born
there have been distinguished from other Arabians by
three scars on the cheek a trade-mark of viciousness,
say visitors to Mecca. The language of the Meccans
is the most salacious to be found anywhere in the dis-
solute East. The city is filled with unspeakable dis-
eases and practices. Travelers have described scenes
occurring in the Great Mosque as licentious as any
reported to have occurred in the most dissolute days
of ancient times.
But to get back to our story of the capture of the
holy cities by the Arabs, the aged Grand Shereef
supervised the attack on Mecca, while Feisal and Ah*
were in command of the force directed against Me-
dina. The Grand Shereef was successful at Mecca,
The forts on the three hills overlooking that forbid-
den and sacred city were garrisoned by the sultan's
most faithful Circassian mercenaries and by picked
Turkish troops. On the day of the attack the Arabs
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 71
swept through the gates and captured the main ba-
zaar, the residential section, the administration build-
ings, and the sacred mosque of the Holy Kaaba.
For a fortnight the battle raged around the two
smaller forts, which were finally taken. During all
this fighting the aged shereef remained in his palace
directing operations in spite of scores of Turkish
three-inch shells that riddled his residence.
The Turks might have been able to hang on for
many months had it not been for their own folly.
The Ottoman seems to be a Mohammedan in theory
only, occasionally adhering to the ritual, and even
less frequently adhering to the spirit of the Koran.
Heedless of the deep-set religious feelings of their
enemies and coreligionists, they suddenly began to
bombard the mosque of the Kaaba, the most sacred
shrine of all Islam. One shell actually struck the
black stone, burning a hole in the holy carpet and
killing nine Arabs who were kneeling in prayer.
Hussein's followers were so enraged by this impious
act that they swarmed over the walls of the great fort
and captured it after desperate hand-to-hand fighting
with knives and daggers.
Both Mecca and the near-by seaport of Jeddah
were captured during the first month's fighting.
Jeddah was taken in five days as a result of the co-
operation of five small British merchantmen under
Captain Boyle, a daring red-headed Irishman, who
was second in command to Sir Rosslyn Wemyss,
then admiral of the Near Eastern Fleet.
72 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
More than a thousand Turkish and German pris-
oners were taken at Jeddah. The bombardment of
this port of entry to the holy city of Mecca nearly
started a revolution in India. The eighty million
Mohammedans living in India are the most fanatical
of all Islam in many respects. They erroneously
charged the British with having bombarded one of
their holy places. As a matter of fact, Jeddah, be-
ing merely the port to Mecca, has never been re-
garded as a holy city by the Arabs themselves and is
the one city in the Hedjaz to which unbelievers have
always been admitted.
At Medina the Bedouins, under Shereefs Feisal
and Ali, were less successful. The tribesmen in
northern Hedjaz, who had rallied round the She-
reefian flag, swept out of the desert mists early on
the same morning in June on which the attack was
launched against Mecca. Occupying all the palm-
groves which extend for miles around the outskirts,
they drove the Turkish outposts from the gardens of
the Medina palaces, fabled for their sparkling foun-
tains, apricot, banana, and pomegranate orchards.
The troops of the garrison withdrew inside the city
walls. There they knew they had the additional pro-
tection afforded by the Tomb of Mohammed, the
tomb which causes Medina to be regarded as the sec-
ond holiest city of Islam. Although Feisal and Ali
could have brought up cannon from Jeddah and per-
haps taken the city by storm after a bombardment,
Hussein refused to permit this for fear of causing the
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 73
destruction of the Prophet's tomb, a catastrophe
which would have incurred the anger of every one of
the two hundred and fifty million Mohammedans in
the world.
Medina is the city to which Mohammed made his
hegira or flight from Mecca in July, 622 A. D., to save
himself from the daggers of assassins hired by his re-
ligious enemies. All Mohammedans count time not
from the birth of Christ but from the date of that
flight, Mohammed was buried in Medina, and on
one side of him rests his favorite daughter, Fatima,
and on the other side the second of the great Arabian
rulers, Calif Omar. But between the graves of Mo-
hammed and Omar a space was left, so the Moslem's
say, that Christ upon His second coming and death
may be buried by the side of the Prophet. So Me-
dina, in addition to being a city of considerable com^
mercial importance, is a great pilgrimage center.
Shortly after the war, the Turks, in order to fa-
cilitate the movement of troops to quell possible up-
risings in Arabia, but ostensibly to make it easier for
pilgrims to reach Medina from the north, built a
single-track railway line all the way down from Da-
mascus. One of the first acts that the attacking
Bedouin hordes committed when they approached
Medina was to tear up several miles of rails with
their bare hands, in order to isolate the garrison. Af-
ter surrounding the town the Arabs sat down to
await its surrender; but the Turks, encouraged by
their inactivity, slipped out of the gates at dawn,
74 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
surprised some of the Arabs who were camping in the
suburb of Awali, and set fire to all the houses.
Large numbers of women and children were shot
down by machine-guns, and scores of others were
burned alive in their homes. This so enraged the
Bedouins and the thousands of Arab townsmen who
came out of Medina to join Feisal and Ali that they
immediately assaulted the great Turkish fort just
outside the walls of the city. But the Turks opened
fire with their heavy artillery and mowed great gaps
in the tightly packed whirling mass of frenzied
Arabians. Never having encountered artillery fire
before in their lives, the frenzy soon turned to panic,
and the mob fled to the shelter of a near-by hill. See-
ing this, the Turkish commander sent out a force of
picked men to cut them to pieces. Shereef Feisal
saw the plight of his men and dashed up on his horse,
utterly regardless of the bursting shrapnel and
machine-gun fire from the fort which raked the in-
tervening open ground. The Bedouins whom he had
brought up to help him rescue the broken and panic-
stricken forces that had made the original attack on
the fort held back, reluctant to face the enemy fire
that formed such a deadly barrage between them and
their comrades. But Feisal laughed and rode on
alone. To give his followers confidence he even made
his horse walk across the open space. Unwilling to
be put to shame by their fearless commander, the
relieving force gave a wild desert cry and charged,
the name of Allah on the lips of every warrior. The
FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA 75
two forces then combined and made a second attempt
to storm the fort. Their ammunition was nearly ex-
hausted. Night, which comes in Arabia with a sud-
denness suggestive of an electrician switching off the
sun's light, dropped down like a black curtain just in
time to save them from annihilation. On the mor-
row, Feisal and Ali called all the tribal chieftains to
a conference at their pavilion, and it was agreed that
for the present it was futile to continue the attack;
so they retired into the hills fifty miles to the south
and camped astride the pilgrim road to prevent any
Turkish forces from attempting to retake Mecca.
The Turks at once repaired the railway line connect-
ing them with Damascus, drove the thirty thousand
civilian Arabs living in Medina out into the desert,
brought down reinforcements from Syria, and fort-
ified the city to resist all future attacks. After the
war refugees from Medina were found all over the
Turkish Empire, in Jerusalem, Konia, Damascus,
Aleppo, and Constantinople.
The Arabs, however, were still in undisputed pos-
session of Mecca ; and with the possible exception of
the capture of Jerusalem and, later on, the combined
capture of Damascus, Beyrouth, and Aleppo by
Allenby's army and the Arabs, the fall of Mecca is
sure to rank in history as one of the greatest disasters
ever suffered by the descendants of Othman. To her
control of the holy city of Mecca Turkey largely
owed her leadership of the Mohammedan peoples of
the world.
76 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
Then came a long pause. The Arabs were unable
to go on with their revolution because they had ex-
pended all their ammunition. Shereef Hussein
again appealed to the Allies, and the British re-
sponded. At that critical moment young Lawrence
appeared on the Arabian stage.
CHAPTER VI
THE GATHERING OF THE DESEBT TRIBES
CHAFING under the red tape of army regula-
tions, certain slight differences had arisen be-
tween the chiefs at G.H.Q. and independent
young Lawrence. His aversion to saluting superiors,
for instance, and his general indifference to all tra-
ditional military formalities did not exactly increase
his popularity with some of the sterner warriors of the
old school. In the Arah uprising Lawrence saw an
avenue of escape from his Cairo strait- jacket.
Ronald Storrs, then Oriental secretary to the high
commissioner of Egypt, was ordered to make a trip
down the Red Sea to Jeddah, with messages to Emir
Hussein, instigator of the Mecca revolt. Although
he had played no part in starting the Hedjaz revolu-
tion, Lawrence had long realized the possibility of
the Arabs' helping prick the kaiser's imperialistic
bubble; so he asked permission to take a fortnight's
vacation, and he has been on that leave of absence ever
since 1
Some of his superiors at the Savoy Hotel in Cairo
were delighted at the prospect of getting rid of this
altogether too obstreperous upstart "shavetail" lieu-
tenant, and his request was granted with alacrity.
77
78 WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA
But Lawrence, contrary to the custom of war-worn
veterans on leave, did not go sailing down the Nile to
the races at Alexandria, or up-stream to Luxor to
while away his holiday at the Winter Palace. In-
stead, he accompanied Ronald Storrs down the Red
Sea. On arrival at Jeddah, Lawrence succeeded in
getting permission from Grand Shereef Hussein to
make a short camel journey inland to the camp of
Emir Feisal, third son of the Grand Shereef, who was
attempting to keep the fires of revolution alive. The
Arab cause looked hopeless. There were not enough
bullets left to keep the army in gazelle meat, and the
troops were reduced to John the Baptist's melancholy
desert fare of locusts and wild honey. After ex-
changing the usual Oriental compliments over many
sweetened cups of Arabian coffee, the first question
Lawrence asked Feisal was, "When will your army
reach Damascus?"
The question evidently nonplussed the emir, who
gazed gloomily through the tent-flap at the bedrag-
gled remnants of his father's army. "In sh' Allah,"
replied Feisal, stroking his beard. "There is neither
power nor might save in Allah, the high, the tremen-
dous ! May He look with favor upon our cause. But
I fear the gates of Damascus are farther beyond our
reach at present than the gates of Paradise. Allah
willing, our next step will be an attack on the Turk-
ish garrison at Medina, where we hope to deliver the
tomb of the Prophet from our enemies."
A few days with Emir Feisal convinced Lawrence
GATHERING OF DESERT TRIBES 79
that it might be possible to reorganize this rabble into
an irregular force which might be of assistance to the
British army in Egypt and Sinai. So absorbed did
he become in working out this idea that when his two
weeks' furlough came to an end he stayed on in
Arabia without even sending apologies to Cairo.
From then onward Lawrence was the moving spirit
in the Arabian revolution.
When Lieutenant Lawrence arrived the situation
was critical. The Turks had rushed an army corps
down from Syria to strengthen Medina, and they had
sent down mule and camel transport, armored cars,
aeroplanes, cavalry, and more artillery with which to
stamp out the revolution. An expeditionary force
from Medina was already on its way south, to recover
Mecca and hang the rebel leaders higher than Haman.
To be sure, this advancing army had two hundred and
fifty miles of desert to cross, but they would have
crossed it had not strange events occurred causing
them hurriedly to revise their plans. As the Arab
chroniclers recount: "The hosts of Othman, the
minions of the usurper califs, advanced defiantly.
But God was not with them! Praise be to Allah, the
protector of all those who trust in him !"
Lawrence had no definite plan but the thought
was in his mind to devise a way of harassing the Turk
and attract