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AUTHOR IN INTERIOR TRAVELLING COSTUME,
VENEZUELA.
Frontispiece.
With the Trade-Winds
A Jaunt in Venezuela and
the West Indies
Bv
IRR NELSON MORRIS
(Second Edition)
" The benefit of travel comes not from the distance
traversed, nor from the scenes reflected on the retina,
but from the intellectual stimulus thus awakened,
and the amount of thought and reading which re-
sults therefrom. . . . Expansion, growth, broader
experience and wider charity, these are the fruits of
that real travel which is of the mind."
J. L. STODDARD
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
New York and London
1597
COPYRIGHT, 1896
BY
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
Entered at Stationers' Hall, London
Ube •fcntcfcer&ocftet f>teset Hew Korfc
DEDICATED
TO MY BELOVED FAMILY
AND TO MY FRIEND AND TRAVELLING
COMPANION
THE MARQUIS OF MONTELO
2054654
PREFATORY
""THE desire to impart to my readers
* some elementary knowledge of a
South American region of which but
little has ever been written in the Eng-
lish tongue, has led to this small volume.
It gives a desultory account of what I
saw and heard, together with personal
experiences during a recent winter tour
among the West India Islands and in
Venezuela.
I wish to express my grateful thanks
to my kind friend, the Marquis Mon-
telo, whose companionship contributed
so much to fill the tour with profitable
knowledge as well as with interest and
pleasure.
IRA NELSON MORRIS.
CHICAGO, 1896.
CONTENTS
PAGE
I. — OUTWARD BOUND x
II. — ON SHIPBOARD .... 5
III. — STROLLS IN ST. THOMAS . . 9
IV. — A NIGHT OF ROMANCE IN THE
INDIES 15
V. — SANTA CRUZ, AN ISLAND OF
PLANTATIONS .... 20
VI. — A FIELD-DAY IN ST. KITT'S . 26
VII. — ENSEMBLE 33
VIII. — ANTIGUA — AN OUTING IN THE
MOUNTAINS .... 36
IX. — MARTINIQUE, A FRENCH MIN-
IATURE IN THE TROPICS . . 39
X. — ST. LUCIA, A FORMER GIBRAL-
TAR OF THE WEST INDIES . 45
XI. — BARBADOES, AN ENGLISH COL-
ONY UP TO DATE ... 52
XII. — A GLIMPSE OF GRENADA 61
Vlll CONTENTS
PAGE
XIII. — TRINIDAD — FIRST GLIMPSES . 65
XIV. — TRINIDAD— WANDERINGS ABOUT
PORT AU SPAIN ... 71
XV. — TRINIDAD, A MINIATURE OF
HINDUSTAN .... 78
XVI. — CURASAO, THE HOLLAND OF
THE SOUTHERN SEAS . . 85
XVII. — LA GUAYRA — FIRST SCENES IN
VENEZUELA .... 90
XVIII. — MACUTO, THE NEWPORT OF
VENEZUELA .... 97
XIX. — CARACAS, A CAPITAL IN THE
VENEZUELAN ANDES . . 103
XX. — CARACAS — REFLECTIONS ON THE
PAST AND PRESENT . . 113
XXI. — RAILROADING IN VENEZUELA . 123
XXII.— VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO
— FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO
THE SEA . . . .131
XXIII. — LAKE MARACAIBO TO THE ORI-
NOCO— ALONG THE SPANISH
MAIN 140
XXIV. — THE DISPUTED TERRITORY . 148
XXV. — DREAMS OF THE FUTURE . 154
ILLUSTRATIONS
AUTHOR IN INTERIOR TRAVELLING COS-
TUME, VENEZUELA . . Frontispiece
TO FACK
PACK
CHARLOTTE AMALIA, CAPITAL OF ST.
THOMAS 8
A PLANTATION HOUSE, SANTA CRUZ . 20
CAVALRY IN ST. KITT'S ... 30
IN THE MARKET-PLACE, ST. JOHN'S,
ANTIGUA . . . . . .36
A FRENCH CREOLE, MARTINIQUE . . 42
A BELLE OF ST. LUCIA .... 50
TRAFALGAR SQUARE, BARBADOES . . 54
PUBLIC SQUARE, PORT AU SPAIN, TRINI-
DAD . . ... . .66
COOLIE BARBERS, TRINIDAD ... 72
HINDU RELIGIOUS CEREMONY, TRINIDAD 82
ix
X ILLUSTRATIONS TO PACE
PAGE
A TROPICAL ISLAND SCENE ... 86
CARACAS, VENEZUELA — GENERAL VIEW . 106
PRESIDENT CRESPO, OF VENEZUELA . 112
RAILROADING IN VENEZUELA . . .124
CARIB INDIANS, ORINOCO DISTRICT, VEN-
EZUELA . . . .'• . . . . 144
A TROPICAL FOREST, VENEZUELA . . 146
AMONG THE BAMBOOS, VENEZUELA . 148
WITH THE TRADE-WINDS
I.
OUTWARD BOUND
ON a very cold day in December I
stood on the deck of the steamer
Madiana as she slowly pushed her way
through the ice toward the Narrows
below New York.
After leaving the luxurious Waldorf
to face the biting cold winds and ac-
commodate one's self to the surround-
ings which the steamer affords, I must
say I did not wonder at my friends
asking how I could choose to take such
an out-of-the-way sort of trip. Not
that the Madiana is an uncomfortable
boat, for that would be doing it an in-
justice, but I anticipated a second Ma-
jestic or Teutonic, and in this I was
disappointed.
2 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
At half-past five the familiar gong
one hears on shipboard announced din-
ner. My place was at the right of our
good captain, Mr. Fraser. Next to me
sat Mr. Maynard, of New York, while
opposite sat Count Bismarck, of Ger-
many, one of the younger generation
of that celebrated name. It was not
long before the captain and the gentle-
man whom hereafter I shall call our
friend Maynard began a conversation
which at once showed how well both
were acquainted with the places we
were leaving home comforts to visit,
and how much profit might be derived
from their companionship.
Our captain, a short, stout fellow, was
the typical sea-dog. His appearance
would answer to the description of the
hero in almost any sea-faring romance.
It was now Friday, and he informed
us it would be Tuesday evening of the
next week before we should reach St.
Thomas, our first stopping-place, and
OUTWARD BOUND 3
only one island of twelve that we were
going to visit on our way to Venezuela,
before the boat would again turn toward
the cold north.
At first some of the ladies looked a
little " home-sick," but as time ad-
vanced the salon assumed a cheerful
aspect, and we began to notice our
companions for the next few weeks.
Acquaintance is soon made at sea ; and
by the fourth day out, partly through
good jokes, but mainly through our
amiable captain, everybody knew every-
body, and the best of fellowship pre-
vailed. About the third day people
began discarding their winter garments,
and on the fourth I strolled about in
tennis flannels and a straw hat.
One evening after dinner, as I walked
the deck in a dreamy mood, thinking of
the far-away countries I was about to
visit, I observed a charming girl of about
twenty seated comfortably on a steamer
lounge ; this fair maiden, with the
4 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
moon's soft rays about her, added new
lustre to the surroundings. The smoke
from my pipe circled in graceful wreaths,
drawing me into a state of reminis-
cence, and soon my thoughts wan-
dered into strange lands, carrying with
them fanciful pictures of what a south-
ward trip might be in the company of
one so gracious, who should share my
travels and my experiences. Such were
my first dreams in the tropics ; and a
few nights later I was happy to find
them not evanescent, like the smoke
from my pipe, and blown away forever,
but reappearing in all their beauty in
actual life.
II.
ON SHIPBOARD
PHE Tropics breed romance. Some-
* thing in the air seems to stimulate
one to adventure and awaken that spirit
of sentiment which burns dimly in all
of us.
Imagine coasting the luxuriant islands
of the Indies with a mellow moon to
cast the shadows of another world
across your mind and to awaken the
fondest dreams of youth into reality
It was on such a night as this that we
sat on the aft deck telling stories of ad-
venture. All were listening to a bit of
the early life and struggles of the Indies,
which the captain related somewhat as
follows :
6 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
" From the time when Columbus first
landed on Salvador, and the wealth and
beauty of the islands were reported
abroad, it was not very long before
other adventurous Europeans discovered
many other islands in the neighborhood,
equally beautiful and even larger than
that which Columbus found. Some of
the expeditions sent over from Europe
were for military glory and the gain of
new territory ; some were parties ar-
rayed by rich and venturesome nobles
in England, France, and other countries.
It was by means of these expeditions
that the great groups of islands known
to us as the Indies fell into the hands
of European nations.
" Not to say," continued the captain,
" that you are to understand each expe-
dition coming over had only to plant a
flag and the island was theirs ; no, in-
deed ! They first had to fight and
conquer the native Indians or Caribs.
Then they were constantly fighting
ON SHIPBOARD 1
among themselves as to who first dis-
covered the place and whether it should
belong to France, Spain, England, or
some other country that was sending
out expeditions at the time.
" It was no easy matter to take away
the islands from the Indians. The
Caribs were a powerful people, supposed
to have crossed over from South Amer-
ica. The conquest of a people like this
on their own territory and knowing
every inch of the ground was no easy
task.
" Many are the cruel stories told of
fights and hardships endured by these
gentlemen, who left their native homes
in search of gold and glory.
" Well, as now I hear the coxswain
strike four bells, I must go and prepare
for an early rise, for by to-morrow even-
ing if all is smooth sailing, I mean to
drop anchor in St. Thomas, our first
stopping-place."
I did not care to follow the example
8 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
of the rest of the party by saying
good-night, but arm in arm with my
fair companion, whom I met in a
very romantic way, — as my dream itself
had indicated — we strolled the deck
until the night-watch was relieved, for
it was one of those beautiful nights on
the sea when the faint silvery bell struck
by the sailor on the bridge expresses
no idea as regards time. Surrounded
by such scenes and amid such circum-
stances time is measured only by one's
impulses and emotions.
III.
STROLLS IN ST. THOMAS
IT was growing dark. One by one
* the silver stars peeped out of the
blue firmament, and the great moon
silently cast her silver rays upon the
dark waters. In the quiet and peace of
this summer night there stretched be-
fore us the beautiful harbor of the small
Danish island of St. Thomas.
Off in the background, reaching half
way up the mountain side, like mill-
ions of fireflies, rested the capital and
only city, Charlotte Amalia.
On entering the bay we noticed a
German man-of-war at anchor, quietly
riding the waves. A little farther on
we saw two French cruisers and a Span-
9
IO VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
ish gunboat. These men-of-war, repre-
senting the great nations of the world,
seemed to add importance to the island,
and we were told that prior to the last
twenty years, before Barbadoes rose into
such popularity, this small island of
Denmark's was the chief coaling station
and outfitting place for those boats of
the world which found themselves in
need in Southern waters.
A few more turns of the screw and
we were anchored about a mile away
from a sort of pier running into the
water. Leaning over the rail of the
Madiana I beheld a scene of commotion
and excitement. About a hundred small
rough boats manned by strong negroes
of the island were crowding around the
hull of our great boat, looking as though
any moment they might be crushed like
egg-shells. This being a regular occur-
rence at each port we visited, and as it
was a striking feature of the trip, I
shall describe our experience with these
fellows.
STROLLS IN ST. THOMAS II
These negroes are wonderfully well
built ; it is a pity that they so shun
work. Labor, except what is an abso-
lute necessity, is, in their eyes, useless
and degrading. Many of them gain
their only living by owning a clumsy
boat similar to the many which I have
described around our steamer. With
these they carry passengers to and from
the shore when a steamer is in harbor,
and during the many other days they
are engaged in unloading and carrying
freight from sailing vessels and other
freight boats. Their cries and shouts
to passengers on the steamer, persuad-
ing the latter to take boat to shore, are
much worse than any with which I have
ever been besieged by the army of cab-
men at the Grand Central Station in
New York. The sight of these fellows
fighting and pushing one another about
in their boats, made one think what a
fine foot-ball team they would make to
oppose our Yale eleven.
Col. Maynard and I did not take din-
12 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
ner aboard ship, preferring a stroll on
land, and a visit to one of the hotels,
situated on high cliffs overlooking the
sea. On arriving ashore we seemed to
amuse the negroes in a high degree.
These simple-minded people are indeed
very easily amused, but let me remark
that there is this" difference between the
negro of the West Indies and his brother
of the States : the former has learned
that his position is not like that of the
educated white man, therefore he does
not presume to place himself on the
same footing.
It is needless to say how much we
enjoyed our first dinner in the Indies.
Not alone was the food delicious, but
it was a rare pleasure to sit on an open
verandah overlooking the sea, while be-
hind us rose the great volcanic moun-
tains.
After dinner we " did " the town. One
can usually gain an adequate idea of a
town in one of these islands by walking
STROLLS IN ST. THOMAS 13
down the main business street and ob-
serving the people, the shops, and the
houses. The negroes are always jolly
and laughing : this is the only side of
life they know : if they have sufficient
food for mere existence they are satis-
fied. In these hot climates clothing is
dispensable.
The houses and shops are for the
most part built in one story, and are
constructed chiefly of a soft native
stone. The poorest houses are framed
by poles and then covered over with
palm leaves stuck together with mud,
which quickly hardens in this hot cli-
mate.
The few foreign residents, who form
the representative and best element in
all the Islands, have their homes on the
outskirts of the town, or back among
the hills, where they enjoy the breeze
of the trade-winds and a cleanliness not
to be found in the towns themselves.
In the general market-place loud-
14 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
voiced negroes, both men and women,
offered their vegetables and wares for
sale. The fruits which grow so luxuri-
antly on the Islands are most tempt-
ing, even though handled by the dusky
maid of Africa.
Some of the large stores and ware-
houses in the town are kept by foreign-
ers who, anxious for the advantage of
trade, endure the hot climate of the
island. In the shops one can find most
articles of manufacture from both the
United States and Europe.
We spent two days in St. Thomas,
driving about the island, and seeing
many queer things.
Just as the twilight fell we were again
rowed to the Madiana. All was quiet
save for the plaintive voices of the ne-
groes singing on the shore, which the
wind wafted to us across the water.
With the melody echoing in the dis-
tance we drifted out to the open sea on
our way to Santa Cruz.
IV.
A NIGHT OF ROMANCE IN THE INDIES
" T T AVE you a guitar ? " whispered my
* * fair companion as we mounted
the steps from the salon.
Our boat was dreamily skirting the
shore of the beautiful island of Tortola.
The silver rays of the moon reflected
on the waters below a miniature of
mountains clothed in rich tropical ver-
dure.
There was nothing to mar the quiet
of the scene. The rippling waves played
a soft accompaniment to the sweet voice
of my friend. We were lazily reclining
on some rugs in the stern of the boat.
Lulled by the sweet voice of my com-
panion, and the faint murmuring of the
guitar, I felt that I must invent a story
15
l6 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
for the occasion — one full of romance
and adventure.
I related how during the last century,
while England and Spain were engaged
in bitter war, a sweet and noble girl of
Devonshire was kidnapped by some
Spanish brigands after a severe fight in
the village. She was taken aboard ship
with other captives to be borne to the
West Indies to serve as slaves or be
treated as heretics in some miserable
monastery. Among those engaged in
the affray and left seriously wounded
was the lover of this girl, — a hand-
some, manly fellow, about twenty-eight
years old. Though thinking himself
about to die, the hero made an oath
that if he should by any possibility sur-
vive, he would avenge himself on those
who had wrecked his happiness, and
spend the rest of his days in seeking her
who was dearest on earth to him, thus
proving that honor is the foundation of
an Englishman's code.
A ROMANTIC EVENING 17
Perched on the high cliffs whose rocks
are washed by the blue sea, rests the
Spanish monastery of Santa Juanita.
The silver bell pealed forth the hour of
midnight. Before the altar in prayer
knelt a woman whose thoughts were
bent on her home in Devonshire, far
across the sea.
Half a league from the island, quietly
riding the waves, rocked the ship of some
English buccaneers on whose deck, if
the moon were bright enough, could be
observed armed men preparing for a
land attack. Impatiently pacing the
deck, clad in a military cloak, with
sabre and pistols, was a young officer —
no other, indeed, than the hero of the
brigand fight in the small seaport town
of Devonshire.
The boat carried no lights : all was
quiet as death. The plan of action
which the party adopted was to gain
the shore, quickly surprise the Spanish
guards, take the town and capture the
l8 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
monastery, reported to contain fabulous
wealth, and — above all — some English
souls.
But things did not turn out so fortu-
nately. The Spanish soldiers, hidden
by thick underbrush on shore, quietly
awaited their victims, and the handful
of brave English fellows were soon
overpowered. Many were killed, and
in the quiet and peace of the night
the Spaniards dragged the wounded to
the cloister to be cared for by the
Sisters.
The woman who knelt at prayer earlier
in the evening was now stooping over a
dying man. The faint rays of a quaint
lamp burning before a shrine cast a dim
shadow on the stony floor. The melan-
choly tones of the old bell came like
rays of hope to the ears of an English
soldier dying for the love and honor of
his sweetheart.
Having brought my story to a close, I
awoke from my dreams. My friend was
A ROMANTIC EVENING 19
playing a soft plaintive air : from off in
the distance, like a far-away echo, came
the deep voice of the sailor on lookout,
" Twelve o'clock, and all 's well."
V.
SANTA CRUZ, AN ISLAND OF
PLANTATIONS
I REACHED deck the next morning
* just as the sun poised itself over
the distant hills. Santa Cruz, like St.
Thomas, belongs to Denmark. It is not,
however, so mountainous, and the peo-
ple find more opportunity here for agri-
culture than on the other island. The
town itself is small, and much the same
in general character as Charlotte Amalia.
I had accepted an invitation from Mr.
Maynard to visit a large sugar planta-
tion in which he is interested. After a
light breakfast, we were rowed ashore to
the company's office. There we met
Col. Blackwood, who is interested in the
20
AN ISLAND OF PLANTATIONS 21
estates on the island. We were soon
being driven by a swift team of West
Indian ponies over smooth hard roads
toward the plantation. The country
through which we passed was well-
cultivated.
After travelling some hours between
rows of stately palms and through a
rich country, we noticed in the distance
a mansion of the old colonial days built
imposingly on a great hill. Towards
this we made our way. Here was the
headquarters of the estate.
In better days when West Indian
sugar was a more profitable article and
before the sugar bounty on the conti-
nent was known, there existed many
other rich plantations similar to this,
both here and on the other islands. But
in recent times affairs are in a sad state
in all the Indies. This is due primarily
to the decrease in value of sugar, which
is the article of most importance in the
islands. Since the fall of the sugar in-
22 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
dustry, the people find it hard to obtain
a means of subsistence. Small wonder
that most of the old European families
of high birth have within the last century
drifted away from this region, and that
now there remain only the fast decaying
estates, with their mansions, to testify
of once glorious times. It is a touch-
ing sight.
We lunched at the estate, where I met
Mrs. Blackwood and her niece, both
from Boston. It is charming to experi-
ence the true hospitality which the peo-
ple of these lands always seem so happy
to extend to strangers on their shore.
Charles Kingsley spoke the truth when
he said that the West Indian hospitality
and politeness are traits which the peo-
ple of the continent might well imitate.
The luncheon itself was a typical one.
It consisted of fruit of all kinds, in-
cluding mangoes, plantains, bread-fruit,
guavas, and other varieties which I had
not seen since my journey a few years
AN ISLAND OF PLANTATIONS 23
before through Mexico, and also of
several delicious Indian foods of a light
and dainty character.
After luncheon we visited the sugar
factory. This great article of com-
merce appears to a stranger to be made
in a very simple and easy manner, while
only by one who understands the trade
and the principles of sugar, can the
truly intricate and difficult character of
the process be realized.
In a few words, the sugar-cane is
brought in great carts to the factory,
where it is crushed between gigantic
rollers. The juice thus obtained runs
into great vats, where it stands for clar-
ifying. It is then treated with steam to
a degree of ripeness, and afterwards
allowed slowly to crystallize. These
crystals form the brown sugar, which is
sent in great cakes to the market, usually
the United States, for refining. That
which does not crystallize becomes what
we know as crude molasses, and is
24 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
again put through the same process as
the juice from the sugar ; that which
still remains passes into stills for the
manufacture of rum.
Of rum, also a very important article
of trade in the Indies, it is needless to
say that in former times, when this
liquor was more popular, the West
Indian was known to be the best.
After a very interesting hour spent at
the factory we returned to the house,
where we spent the rest of the day on
the cool verandas. After dinner, which
our excellent hostess presided over in a
charming manner, we strolled about the
parks under the great trees. But it was
now growing late, and as the moon had
already risen some hours, we were
obliged to bid our kind friends fare-
well.
There is a peculiar pathos in the part-
ing from such brief acquaintances who
have been very kind to us and whom
perhaps we shall never see again. That
AN ISLAND OF PLANTATIONS 25
night, as we drove back to the coast,
threading our way through great forests,
the moon throwing dark shadows across
our path, I was unusually sensitive to
emotion.
VI.
A FIELD-DAY IN ST. KITT's
PHE next morning I was awakened
* from my slumbers by the roar of
a cannon, followed by other reports
whose echoes were driven back by the
great mountains rising from the water's
edge.
As everything so far had been quiet
and peaceful during our voyage, and as
in these dreamy lands I had no antici-
pations pertaining to war of any sort, I
was naturally somewhat startled.
Thrusting my head out the port-hole,
I noted a few leagues from us several
men-of-war at anchor. A little time
afterwards I went on deck, just as the
reveille was wafted within our hearing
26
A. FIELD-DAY IN ST. KITT'S 27
from an English man-of-war to our
starboard, and with my glass was able
to observe on the English boats the
sailors taking their muskets and prepar-
ing for early morning inspection and
drill.
Count Bismarck had asked me to go
aboard the warship Blake for breakfast,
having letters to the captain, whom he
expected to meet in these waters. As
we rowed alongside the ironclad, the
mouths of the great cannon looked
grimly towards us, in sharp contrast
with the very cordial reception we re-
ceived after boarding the English ves-
sel. Our cards were carried to the
officer of the deck, who at once directed
them to be sent to the captain.
It had always been one of my great
pleasures to make acquaintance with
the captains of vessels. Something
about their very sea-faring life breeds a
frank politeness giving them the quali-
ties of the true gentleman, although
28 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
often somewhat hidden under a cloak
of brusque sea manners.
We were fortunate enough to see the
marines drawn up in line for drill, and
interested at the manner in which they
did justice to their colors.
It is hard to realize that one of these
ships is almost a city in itself. Each
man has his own little home and his
daily duties. There is a market-place
where are stored foods of all kinds, and
adjacent to this the place where live-
stock is kept for consumption. Farther
down the gangway we found in the work-
shop men busily engaged in the manu-
facturing of new implements and the
repairing of the old.
We also saw the tailor-shop and linen
outfit, where clothes were in process of
making and old ones being mended.
Here also was the boot and shoe repair-
ing shop. A blue and white sign at-
tracted our attention to the barber-
shop. In coming back by another
A FIELD-DAY IN ST. KITT/'s 29
street we passed through the great
kitchen of the cruiser, where food is
cooked for the small city, and the hos-
pital where the sick are kept.
We spent a good part of the morning
aboard the Blake j nor could we make
a graceful retreat without accepting an
invitation from the captain for dinner,
to be followed by a military ball on
deck, given in honor of the governor.
Programmes were distributed about
the Madiana, telling us there were to be
athletic games given by the officers and
sailors of the British squadron on the
grounds in Basseterre, the principal
town of the island, off which we were
anchored.
During noon-time we wandered about
the streets visiting all the places of in-
terest to strangers. This was the first
English island we had yet touched on
our voyage, and it surprised us to find
how typically English everything was.
However tropical the surroundings
30 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
might be, yet we found everywhere the
well-equipped, neat English house, with
its tennis-court and cricket set on the
lawn.
In the afternoon we noticed happy
people at their five o'clock teas or en-
gaging in athletic games, just as at
Southampton and Brighton. To be sure,
only a very small per cent, of the inhabi-
tants are English, but wherever an Eng-
lishman wanders he brings with him his
own ideas, customs, and mannerisms.
To me the English nation appears not
only one of great enterprise, but ranks
first as a people that civilized the world.
Pleasant fountains shaded by grace-
ful palms or mangoes, marked the inter-
section of many of the streets, and
numerous little parks were scattered
here and there throughout the city.
The streets were well-paved and clean ;
and the houses, though small, have a
neat and sanitary appearance.
About four o'clock we turned our
A FIELD-DAY IN ST. KITT S 31
steps in the direction of the athletic
games.
While these games are not different
in themselves from the ordinary tourna-
ments of athletics that we have in Amer-
ica, there is here added to them the
romantic interest of being given by ma-
rines and officers of far-away England.
In the background loom up the great
mountains ; before us, beyond gently
sloping meadows and plains, the ocean
rolls in the distance.
The field was lined with carriages
and vehicles of all kinds, filled with
pretty girls arrayed in striking costumes
for this gala occasion of the week.
Here, through some English folk to
whom I had cards of introduction, I
made some very pleasant acquaint-
ances.
We sat in one of the carriages with a
bevy of fair English ladies, and amidst
the shouts and laughter and confusion
of the throng, thoroughly enjoyed our-
32 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
selves. Popcorn, peanuts, lemonade,
sandwiches, soda and the like were all
in good form, and to say that we spent
a pleasant afternoon would hardly do
justice to our appreciation.
VII.
ENSEMBLE
'T'HE Marine Band is playing a dreamy
* southern air. We are aboard the
English warship Blake. In the dis-
tance, glistening in the moon, the palms
sigh. Imagine the romance of a mili-
tary ball in the tropics !
We were anchored only a short dis-
tance from Her Majesty's island of St.
Kitt's. The mountains rise from the
bosom of the ocean clad in a mantle of
rich tropical vegetation.
" Ah ! Count," I say, as the moon
appearing from a cloud brings this
grand panorama to view, " if there is
any spark of true life in a man, this
would surely kindle it into nobility ! "
3 33
34 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
Thereupon my friend answers, " Why
ponder upon such serious thoughts
when your friend, yonder pretty Ameri-
can girl, awaits you for this waltz ? "
I am soon gliding away in the dance
with one of the sweetest girls. We are
on the British West India ship, whose
deck, garnished by pretty women and
handsome officers in full military dress,
presents a scene not likely to be for-
gotten. I am very proud, for well I
know my fair friend is the chief attrac-
tion of those brave English eyes.
What a night ! Shall I ever forget
it ? Threading our way among the danc-
ers we at last find ourselves in the bow
of this mighty ship, under two great
cannon (England's pride). Neither of
us speak. We thus sit musing some
time, till, faintly wafted by the gentle
breeze, the peal of the old cathedral
bell comes to us. In such times people
find in one another that which is most
pleasing on earth — feelings in com-
ENSEMBLE 35
mon ; and these, when based upon
character and the more noble qualities
of man, indeed bring one a little nearer
to true friendship.
VIII.
ANTIGUA — AN OUTING IN THE
MOUNTAINS
A FEW hours after returning from
**• the ball, we weighed anchor, and
the engines of our boat throbbed once
more as we headed again southward on
our way to new lands.
Needless to say, I slept the sleep of
the happy, and never waked in a more
contented mood than I did the next
morning. Our graceful ship is on her
way towards a dark shadow in the dis-
tance, which the captain tells us is
Antigua.
It was towards noon when we reached
the harbor and our boat once more came
to anchor. We were to spend the rest
of Saturday and Sunday in Antigua.
36
AN OUTING IN THE MOUNTAINS 37
Next morning Mr. Austin, a young
Englishman with whom I had become
quite intimate, and I, decided to take a
forty-five mile drive around the island.
The road passed through dense forests
and jungles, where there was hardly
enough light at mid-day to read a news-
paper ; then again climbed the moun-
tain side or lay along the smooth sandy
beach of the seashore. On the way we
saw the city reservoir built by the colo-
nial inhabitants. Here were great piles
of masonry in which much skill in civil
engineering was displayed. I noticed
on steel plates the names of English
constructionists and engineers. From
this point, which is situated some twelve
miles distant in the mountains, run a
system of pipes to the city, by which
cool refreshing water of the very best
kind, derived from the mountain springs
and streams, is always obtainable.
Towards evening, as we were still
some distance from the town, we saw a
38 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
neat white church situated at the side
of the mountain, from which came
strains of sweet music. We looked at
one another without saying a word, tied
our horses to a tree, entered and took
a seat in the midst of the little negro
congregation. I was particularly im-
pressed by the sincerity of devotion
with which these people worshipped ; I
learned there to respect the negro more
than I had ever before thought it possible
for me to do.
IX.
MARTINIQUE, A FRENCH MINIATURE IN
THE TROPICS
I F a great searchlight could be levelled
* at Martinique, it would unfold to
the observer a vivid picture like that of
gay Paris. Although the rays of life are
somewhat diminished in coming such a
distance as from France to the West
Indies, nevertheless their nature is the
same.
Strolling up from the quays whither
we had rowed in small boats, we were
at once amused and interested. A
smile appeared simultaneously on the
faces of all of us, the sign on a large
yellow placard struck our gaze, an-
nouncing that a grand ballet was to be
30
40 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
enacted by the famous X of Paris
that evening, followed by a French ball.
We had hardly anticipated such amuse-
ment in these romantic lands of the
South.
As we went about some of our party
attempted to exercise their knowledge
of the French tongue, although without
much success in understanding or in
being understood, for the reason that
these people have not a pure speech
but a mixture of French and negro
patois, similar to the " Gumbo " dialect
of New Orleans, which is quite incom-
prehensible to ordinary ears.
The striking feature of St. Pierre,
the largest and principal city of Mar-
tinique, is, as I have said, its distinc-
tively French associations. Were it
not for an occasional orange tree, or
some other tropical plant, we could
easily imagine ourselves in one of the
smaller towns of France. Here one
reads French names above the shops,
LITTLE FRANCE IN THE TROPICS 41
and finds at the intersections of the
streets an occasional statue erected to
the memory of some noted Frenchman.
The island of Martinique being very
mountainous, the city should have the
very best of sanitary equipments, yet
what we consider the necessary condi-
tions for health are quite unknown
there. The gutters, supplied with fresh
and cold water from the streams of the
mountains, rush down the sides of the
streets, and were it not for these the
death-rate at Martinique would be still
greater than it now is.
The architecture of the houses is
decidedly European, though tending
rather towards the light and dainty or-
der than the solid and substantial, repre-
senting, like many French people, beauty
while it lasts, but quick decay.
In St. Pierre are pretty parks with an
occasional murmuring fountain ; also
here and there a marble or bronze statue
hid by thick foliage. In the quiet of
42 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
the evenings hither come the beautiful
French Creoles ; and many a pretty lit-
tle romance takes place here, ushered
in by a guitar serenade.
One statue brings back reminiscences
of the older days of the French empire.
It represents the patient Josephine,
Empress of the French. Martinique
is her birthplace, and here the simple,
beautiful Creole lived her younger days
and received her first education.
But we could not linger too long
about these pleasant spots, for we had
engaged a voiture to drive us to the
botanical gardens and thence to a little
town situated some distance from St.
Pierre, high up in the mountains.
The botanical gardens of Martinique
are known all over the world. Aside
from those of Trinidad they are con-
sidered the finest in existence. Taking
into consideration the nature and adap-
tation of the surroundings, I consider
the gardens of Martinique even grander,
as a whole, than those of Trinidad.
A FRENCH CREOLE, MARTINIQUE.
LITTLE FRANCE IN THE TROPICS 43
To attempt to describe our walks
through the old parks would be a fail-
ure, for I could not do justice to the
sentiments which were aroused in me
on beholding growing in their natural
simplicity, side by side, the orange,
citron, fig, guava, and many other fruits,
in great luxuriance. Bamboo grows
here in profusion ; also wild and dainty
orchids of all kinds clinging to the
rocks and the bark of the trees.
Added to these wonders of growing
nature, were great cataracts leaping
from the near mountains. All this
beauty and grandeur was sufficient to
inspire the soul of any man.
After returning to our hotel and rest-
ing, we enjoyed an excellent dinner
prepared in good style by a French
chef. Even to the fact of wine ap-
pearing on the table free of charge,
everything showed the customs of the
French transplanted to the island.
Later on in the evening, we found
our way through gayly lighted streets,
44 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
which appeared like a diminished re-
flection of the Rue de Rivoli, to the
Opera House, where, as previously re-
marked, we had observed a notice to
the effect that a ballet and masked ball
would take place that night. The ballet
was good ; the French ballet is always
good, comparatively speaking. The
energy and spirit with which this people
enter into everything is too well known
to comment upon. The ball, I shall
leave to my readers' imagination ; suffice
it to say that it was similar to any mid-
winter masked ball given at the Madi-
son Square in New York City.
X.
ST. LUCIA, A FORMER GIBRALTAR OF
THE WEST INDIES
1VTO other small island in the West
* ^ Indies has been the scene of
more contention between European
powers than St. Lucia.
Speaking of the striking appearance
of this rough, volcanic island, and of
its convenient situation for military
purposes, a recent writer adds : " What
wonder that two mighty nations con-
tended for the possession of St. Lucia,
as the Greeks and Trojans waged war
for the guardianship of fair Helen of
old ? "
In 1605 the first attempt was made
at colonization, when the English ship
45
46 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
Olive Blossom landed some sixty col-
onists, who planted the flag of St.
George and occupied the island in
the name of England. From this time
until the capitulation of the French
at Fort Morne Fortune, in 1803, there
was an almost ceaseless strife for the
sovereignty of the island. The fol-
lowing extract, taken from a letter
written by Admiral Rodney in 1772
to the Earl of Sandwich, shows the
importance with which St. Lucia was
regarded : " I had lately the honor
to present to your Lordship a copy of
a letter I thought it my duty to send
to the King's Minister . . . pointing
out the great consequence of retaining
some of the conquered islands, partic-
ularly Martinique or St. Lucia ; and
though at that time I preferred the
retention of Martinique, I am now
fully convinced that St. Lucia is of more
consequence to Britain . . . Either
of these islands in the hands of Great
A FORMER GIBRALTAR OF THE INDIES 47
Britain must, while she remains a great
maritime power, make her sovereign of
the West Indies."
Such is a very brief outline of some
of the past events. To-day there re-
main but the fast crumbling forts and
barracks as a testimony to this once
important military strong-hold.
The old mountain barracks are far
more healthful than if along the coast ;
the matter of climate being one of the
most important things England has to
study in choosing her tropical loca-
tions. Thus at Aden on the Red Sea,
reported to be one of the hottest places
on the globe, it is necessary for the
Government to relieve the soldiers
every few months by sending fresh
recruits thither from other tropical
countries where they have been accus-
tomed to serve.
Great dredging machines, similar to
those used in Panama, were sent over
to deepen the waters of the harbor, so
48 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
that now steamers of the largest draught
can land immediately at the side of
the pier. This is something unknown
to almost all the Islands and harbors
of South America.
St. Lucia has also been made one of
the coaling stations of England. It was
with great interest that I watched a
large German merchant steamer being
coaled in this remote section of the
world. The manner in which they
coal these boats is unique. From 75
to 150 negroes, both men and women,
are supplied with rough baskets of one
or two bushels capacity, which they are
compelled to carry on their heads. It
is very hard work, and on inquiry I
ascertained that these poor wretches
are only paid at the rate of a few cents
an hour.
St. Lucia seemed to me one of the
loveliest of the West India islands.
While I was sitting here on deck one
evening, our boat being fastened along-
A FORMER GIBRALTAR OF THE INDIES 49
side the pier, familiar airs of religious
music were wafted thither by the
breeze. On inquiry I learned that
the Salvation Army had reached its
helping hand even to these poor lands.
Later, seated in the Salvation Army
Hall, amongst a hundred or so of the
meanest and poorest kind of people,
I faintly realized the real good a few
persons of sincere purpose may accom-
plish, though all odds are against them.
St. Lucia is a typical southern island.
Its mountains, clad with great tropical
forests and jungles, are the home of
many wild animals. Here the English
sportsman finds his joy and excitement
in hunting the fleet deer, while for still
more exciting game, he may hunt the
leopard and wild-cat up in the mount-
ains.
Castries, the principal city, off which
we were anchored, presented a very
pretty sight, the older part being nestled
at the base of the mountains, while the
50 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
newer life seemed to be entwining
itself about the sides of the great pre-
cipice.
Towards evening the great cables
which had been holding the Madiana
to the pier were loosened and we drifted
once again into the open harbor. We
had been given a farewell by the in-
habitants of the town who came down
to the wharf, the negroes, gaudily
dressed, looking like parrots in crim-
sons, blues, and greens.
A little later we were passing the
Pitons, two great volcanic mountains
rising perpendicularly from the water
to a height of about three thousand feet.
The sea about these cliffs is so deep that
a steamer could pass touching the very
sides of the precipice itself.
A story is told of four English sailors,
who, having heard that these mount-
ains were insurmountable, made oath
among themselves that they would try
to accomplish the feat. Their friends
A BELLE OF ST. LUCIA.
A FORMER GIBRALTAR OF THE INDIES $1
from a boat in the distance watched
them anxiously through glasses. When
half-way up one of them was seen to
drop, but the three others went on. A
few hundred feet higher a second
dropped, and afterwards a third. The
last one had almost reached the summit
when he also fell. No account of what
had befallen them ever reached the
ship. They are supposed to have been
bitten by the fer de lance, the deadliest
snake in St. Lucia and perhaps in the
world.
XI.
BARBADOES, AN ENGLISH COLONY UP
TO DATE
A LL was bustle and commotion on
** board the Madiana on the morn-
ing of January izth, for we were soon
to arrive at Barbadoes, which was her
last stopping-place before she turned
her bow again toward the North. Many
of the passengers intended returning to
New York again by the Madiana ;
others, like myself, decided to part
with the boat, and associations which
had become so endeared, and strike out
for new regions.
It was with much feeling that I bade
adieu to our good captain, Mr. Fraser,
and to the passengers who had been
with us thus far on the cruise.
52
AN ENGLISH COLONY UP TO DATE 53
Barbadoes is very much unlike the
other islands we have visited in being
not of the volcanic order but of a coral
formation, thus presenting a level ap-
pearance. It is about the size of the
Isle of Wight, and has a population of
about 180,000, by far the greater part
blacks.
On arriving at Barbadoes I was at
once driven to the Marine Hotel,
whither I had sent my luggage. The
Marine is a fine old hostelry built of
rough stone, a few miles from the town
facing the sea. Here one can always
find the cool breezes of the ocean and
the cleanliness of a well-kept inn. In
this vicinity are many of the better
houses of the capital and principal city
of Barbadoes, Bridgetown. Tramways
run from the business part of the town
to this locality, a distance of about
three miles. At the hotel I afterwards
met a few Americans as well as some
Britons. People seek this island for its
54 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
salubrious climate and its pleasant sur-
roundings.
Barbadoes having been occupied by
the British for some two hundred years,
has a distinctively modern English ap-
pearance ; there is considerable wealth
there, for the ancestors of many of its
old English families owned plantations
and slaves.
The parade grounds or Savannah of
the military quarters present a lively
scene in the morning and evening, and
thither I strolled about five o'clock in
the evening with a certain charming
passenger of the Madiana, who has been
closely associated with many of my
experiences in the islands. That she
should be popular everywhere is indeed
no wonder. She is a typical American
girl : bright, vivacious, experienced, and,
above all, sincere. It is this kind of
girl that has made the American wo-
man appear as the ideal woman in the
hearts not only of Americans, but also
AN ENGLISH COLONY UP TO DATE 55
of the stolid and easy-going Briton, the
gay and vivacious Frenchman, and the
more romantic and sentimental Span-
iard.
The soldiers performing their usual
evening dress drill, presented a fine
view on the field. The infantry per-
formed their evolutions, directed by
officers in gay costumes, while farther
off in the distance the cavalry bore
down upon an imaginary enemy, and
the artillery brought up the rear.
At our first dinner on the island,
among other things on the bill of fare
I noticed flying fish, and as these were
considered a great delicacy, I felt that
I certainly must try them. They taste
very much like the sole of England.
The fish itself is of the same genus as
the flying fish we meet in crossing the
northern Atlantic, but of a much smaller
species.
The next day I took a long drive with
the Count about this section. We drove
56 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
past the Government prison and the
labor-house, not caring to visit either,
as I had been through institutions of a
similar nature. Suffice it to say, that
the Government institutions are here
well cared for. The governor, appointed
by the Home Government, is an able
man and well qualified for those duties
of trust and importance placed upon
him by the Queen. There is an assem-
bly which makes the laws and which
somewhat corresponds to our Senate
and House of Representatives. A chief
justice presides over the judicial de-
partment, and there are other judges on
the bench. The police are well trained,
being under the supervision of a Chief
of Police, an important personage of
the island.
In driving we passed many planta-
tions and rich fields of sugar, rice, and
other tropical products. After seeing
as much of the country as we had leis-
ure for, we returned to Bridgetown and
AN ENGLISH COLONY UP TO DATE 57
did some shopping. The shops are very
much like those in England and on a
grand scale. They have a few large
department stores where one can find
anything from a hat-pin to an anchor.
We visited the famous Ice-house and
drank the local popular drink, the swiz-
zle. The Ice-house, so called because
the luxury of ice is there obtained, is
common to all the West Indian islands
and is a sort of hotel with cafe" and
restaurant attached. Here the better
elements of the people usually meet and
lead that indolent existence common to
the South. The swizzle, which is the
characteristic drink of the Islands, is a
sort of cocktail, which after being con-
cocted is made to ferment by the use of
a stick with prongs on the end called a
swizzle-stick. It is a mild and cooling
drink, in which both the ladies and
gentlemen of the South indulge.
That evening I was invited out to
dinner by some English friends to whom
58 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
I had letters. Their estate, situated a
little distance from town on an emi-
nence, affords a fine specimen of
colonial architecture, refinement, and
wealth. High stone walls encircle the
grounds ; fountains give an air of life,
while in the rear is a park of great trees.
The house is built of rough stone : the
rooms are commodious and comforta-
ble. A great entrance hall into which
open the rooms, is finished in hard wood,
and contains many relics of antiquity,
such as helmets, swords, fire-arms, etc.
All the rooms contain large fireplaces,
for even in this climate the evenings
are cool and damp.
After dinner our host, a good story-
teller and a man who has had many
adventures and experiences, related in
an interesting way phases of the life of
former days in the Indies and on the
Spanish Main.
I must not leave Barbadoes without
impressing upon my readers the impor-
AN ENGLISH COLONY UP TO DATE 59
tance and significance of this island
and especially of the city — Bridgetown.
This is the centre of trade for all the
Islands and the port of the Royal Mail
line between England and the Islands
and the mainland of South America, as
well as that of the Hamburg-American
steamers, of other European lines, the
Quebec Steamship Co., and the boats
plying between South America and
New York. It is in fact the New York
of the Indies. The city itself is com-
posed of substantial shops and ware-
houses. The streets are well paved and
illuminated by electricity. Here one
finds all the modern conveniences and
comforts of life. The docks always
present a busy scene where one may
gain an idea of the commercial impor-
tance of the place.
A few days later I boarded the Royal
Mail Steamship Solent, which was to
carry us over our route to Venezuela
by way of the islands of Grenada, Trin-
60 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
idad, and Curacoa; three countries
promising much of interest.
It is towards five o'clock in the even-
ing when the Solent slowly steams out
of the harbor of Barbadoes. I wave a
little silk flag with the stars and stripes
to our fair companion, who has added
so much to the pleasure and interest of
this trip and has also endeared herself
very greatly to our memory. She is to
remain here for some time and enjoy
with her father the delightful place, and
towards spring is to return once again
to her friends and home in the North.
XII.
A GLIMPSE OF GRENADA
PHE Solent is one of those sharp,
* well-fitted steel cruisers which are
so often seen flying the British flag in
foreign waters. She is scarcely of three
thousand tons, and is said to be the
ideal model of the Royal Mail Line.
The rooms, though not situated on the
upper deck as were those of the Madi-
ana, yet are large and comfortable and
the table is excellent.
In the evening the captain, the doc-
tor, the purser, and the other officers of
the boat appear in full dress. Their
example is also followed by the passen-
gers on the boat.
But although so superior to the Ma-
61
62 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
diana in respect of discipline and ser-
vice, I still bear the fondest recollections
of the pleasures of that good home-like
ship which brought us to Barbadoes.
We had a night of smooth sailing.
About four o'clock the next afternoon,
after coasting the shores of Grenada
for some hours, we turned a point of
land and entered the almost perfectly
land-locked harbor of the principal
city — St. George.
On approaching, the first thing we
noticed was a fort built of heavy stone,
overlooking the town and the harbor.
It seems to be an Englishman's joy
to tug and climb whenever an oppor-
tunity presents itself. I was soon
on my way ashore with four young
English fellows from London. The
first thing we did on landing was to
scale the heights from below and try to
gain access to the fort. After an hour's
hard work we reached the gate and were
accosted by a sleepy sentry. We sent
A GLIMPSE OF GRENADA 63
our cards to the commandant of the
fort, and in a few minutes one of the
lieutenants was showing us about the
place.
There is nothing remarkable about
the fort. It is a crumbling mass of
stone, and the few old rusty cannon lying
about could probably not be used even
in case of an emergency. The garrison
consists of a handful of old crippled
men, mostly negroes, and when later I
saw them on drill I thought I had never
known a poorer show of soldiers who
wore the British uniform.
Indeed, there was but little life any-
where to be seen on this island. The
citizens of the town lay about in a dole-
ful mood, as if they had forgotten all
about such a thing as energy. In former
years, before the negro gained so much
control over affairs, and when many
white people lived on the island, things
were prosperous ; the cane-fields were
well cultivated and brought in hand-
64 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
some incomes, and commerce and trade
were active.
The subject is too sad to linger upon.
The few white inhabitants are thor-
oughly disgusted, and seem to have lost
all ambition of bringing about other
results.
In contrast to all this, as we were leav-
ing the shores of Grenada, a sunset such
as I have never seen in any land before
was presented to us. My travelling com-
panion, who had circled the globe twice,
told me he had never witnessed its equal.
Softly drawn before our eyes as though
by some unseen hands, the spectrum of
the sun in hues of soft radiance and
beauty lingers a few moments before all
is dark.
XIII.
TRINIDAD — FIRST GLIMPSES
IT is the early dawn of a tropical morn-
ing. For some hours our boat, the
Solent, has been skirting the shores
of the beautiful island of Trinidad.
Then, as if in response to the morn's
welcome, we proudly steam into the
harbor. The peace of the island is
slowly awakened by the soft caressing
rays of the golden sun ; as though afraid
to disturb such tranquillity, its disk
lingers behind the three great peaks
which suggested to Columbus the Trin-
ity and gave to the island its name —
Trinidad.
We were soon being rowed to shore
by half a dozen strong negroes. It
s 65
66 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
must be remembered that in these im-
mediate waters, where the dredging
machine is still unknown, a ship dares
not approach too near the shore.
The streets of Port au Spain, the
capital and chief city of the island, are
well laid out, and we were surprised at
the commercial importance a city in
this far out of the way land can attain.
Large business houses, the results of
modern civilization, are on either side
of the street, and we were passing an
intelligent-looking people, with an air
of refinement, worldliness, and culture,
far different from what one generally
sees in these southern countries. Thanks
be to England, for she has planted in
this remote corner of the globe the
civilization and advantages of modern
Europe.
Yet in sharp contrast to all this, and
what appeared to me to be as incongru-
ous as would the slow lengthy treading
of a camel on Broadway, are the East
FIRST GLIMPSES 67
Indian coolies engaged in their daily
routine of work. Had we not been pre-
pared for such a scene it must have in-
deed startled us. The first question a
person asks is, How does the coolie find
himself on these shores ? England, re-
alizing the necessity of agricultural de-
velopment, and finding a scarcity of
good labor in Trinidad, took advantage
of the unique opportunity which pre-
sented itself in the transplanting of these
people from the far East to another
Southern home.
The contract which the planter who
imports these coolies through the Gov-
ernment must enter into, is made first
with the Government itself, and secondly
with the coolie. England in the case
of the coolie maintains herself rightful
protector against his master, in much
the same way as she extends protector-
ate over foreign colonies in Africa,
though on better grounds. The coolie
must be well cared for by the master, to
68 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
whom he is indentured for a term of
five years, after which he is free to
choose his own course. During the
time of his indenture he is paid about
thirteen cents for each working day,
six days in the week being stipulated
as the number the coolie must work.
After the expiration of his time he may
be transported back to India, if he so
choose, or, what is more frequently the
case, for a small sum he may buy con-
siderable ground from the Government
and enter into the farming business for
himself. In the allotment of the coolies
after their importation from India, great
care is taken not to break up families.
On the whole, this arrangement seems
a commendable one, doing well for
the coolie, who is overburdened and
poverty-stricken in his over-populated
home, and bringing him to a country of
vast resources and great wealth, which
is only waiting to be developed. There
are many thousands of coolies living in
FIRST GLIMPSES 69
Trinidad, besides a great many in Brit-
ish Guiana and other South American
countries.
We paid a visit to the Trinidad Club,
finding that club life in the West Indies
is an important factor in the better
class of society. Here one will some-
times encounter people such as one
finds at the Savoy in London, and the
Opera in Paris, and meets in the best
drawing-rooms both in Europe and
America. The clubs are very much the
same as those we are accustomed to,
with this great advantage over ours, in
being more hospitable and frank, and
in general truer to the tastes and desires
of gentlemen.
We refreshed ourselves with a light
breakfast, taken beneath the dark blue
sky on the open verandah. A pleasant
and most charming custom indeed !
Here, hid by the screenage of rich palms
and exotics, lingering over our cigars
and coffee, the first officer of the Solent
7O VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
and I decided to spend the day in an
outing among the mountains of this,
the most beautiful island of the Indian
seas.
XIV.
TRINIDAD WANDERINGS ABOUT PORT
AU SPAIN
ONE should not leave Trinidad
without spending some time in
the places of which Charles Kingsley
in his book on the Indies speaks so en-
chantingly, so our good friend the offi-
cer told our negro groom to proceed to
these points.
After leaving the club we drove tow-
ard the Trinidad market-place, pass-
ing through the principal business
streets. The tinkling of a bell on a
single mule pulling a worn-out looking
yellow street-car, reminded us that we
were in the land of time and leisure.
I have usually found that the shop
72 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
windows in a place show the tastes of its
people, and here, noting the many im-
ported wares on display, it was not hard
to realize that these people, though liv-
ing in the torrid zone, enjoy the com-
forts and luxuries of Europe.
After a while we saw a long wooden
building with a great glass roof, and
surrounded by a large yard. This is
the famous market-place. It was still
early in the morning, and hither we
found the coolies coming from the
country, many having walked many
miles to offer their vegetables and wares
for sale. Here were coolies sitting in
the same posture as we find the mer-
chant in Constantinople, and bargaining
in the most decided manner even over
the most trivial things.
They deal in cloth, jewelry, shoes,
hardware, in truth, one could purchase
from them almost anything from an In-
dian filigree ring to an English sewing
machine. The mass of the people at
S
COOLIE BARBERS, TRINIDAD.
WANDERINGS ABOUT PORT AU SPAIN 73
the market are coolies, though we
noticed a sprinkling of negroes among
them.
After purchasing a few odd articles
we went on to the museum. Here are
all sorts of specimens from the animal,
vegetable, and mineral kingdoms, repre-
senting both the present and past of the
islands. It is thrilling indeed, to hold
in one's hand an awful scorpion, the
very one perhaps whose bite has sent
many to the grave ; or to stroke the
boa constrictor, the terror of the peo-
ple. Many are the stories I heard told
during my sojourn in South America of
how this reptile, after fascinating its
prey, hurls itself upon it, only to result
in the sure death of its victim.
Here too were butterflies more beau-
tiful than I had ever imagined, and
fossils and shells representing the pre-
historic age of the island ; also there lay
scattered about the rooms tools and im-
plements belonging to the Stone Age,
74 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
and showing the customs and arts of the
Caribs during that period.
From the museum we drove to the
residence part of Port au Spain, skirt-
ing the great Savannah on the way.
This open space covers a considerable
area bordering on the fashionable
street leading to the Government House
and the Botanical Gardens. It is a
place of much importance to the gen-
eral populace of the city. Here are
held the open-air political meetings, the
championship tourneys, tennis games,
and horse-racing.
The best houses are on the Savannah ;
it is where the old English aristocracy
established itself.
But the old colonial institutions are
fast decaying, and the English popula-
tion now prefer England to Trinidad.
The Government House is the resi-
dence of the governor of the island,
and is a palace fit for the ruler of any
empire. It stands in the midst of a
WANDERINGS ABOUT PORT AU SPAIN 75
fine park with fountains, and grounds
for tennis and cricket. Charles Kings-
ley has made it the background for
many interesting incidents. I was so
fortunate as to attend a ball given by
the governor, in which, under the ban-
ner of England, were gathered men and
women from every clime. I met repre-
sentatives from South America, travel-
lers from the Far East, officers from the
continent of Europe, and other officers
well able to represent the dignity of our
own beloved country. What a scene
for a romance under the palms in the
park that beautiful moonlight night, as
the faint strains of sweet music fell on
the ear ! Well, perhaps there was one !
After leaving the Government House
we took a stroll through the Botanical
Gardens. So much has been written
and said of these that I dare say they
are not unfamiliar to my readers. The
Gardens are maintained by the English
Government at a considerable expense.
76 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
The chief purpose is to try experiments
in the cultivation of different trees,
plants, shrubs, and numbers of other
sub-divisions of the vegetable kingdom.
It is a most important branch of the
Department of Agriculture in London.
Trinidad has the honor to boast of the
grandest and most luxuriant Gardens
in the world ; although, as mentioned
once before in this book, those of Mar-
tinique are by their natural advantages
very much superior.
It was growing toward noon ; the
ball of fire above us was asserting itself
more and more strongly. The birds in
the trees stopped chirruping and be-
took themselves to rest. Here, in a
grove of mangoes overlooking the coffee
fields, we made a halt for luncheon.
Luncheon over, our cigars were
lighted. The officer began telling me
of his travels in the Indian Archipelago;
how, when lieutenant of Her Majesty's
good ship Lark, he was ordered by the
WANDERINGS ABOUT PORT AU SPAIN 77
captain to make a survey of one of the
remote islands. Toward night the party
became lost in the thick fogs and under-
brush. But I cannot finish the story.
I fell asleep at that point and dreamed
not of jealous nations ruling the earth
and fighting for the balance of power,
but of one great land where all is peace
and contentment.
XV.
TRINIDAD, A MINIATURE OF
HINDUSTAN
T AM awakened from my slumber by
•* my companion, who assures me
that it is time for us to start. It is
much later and the heat has abated.
The soft trade-winds are refreshing.
So off we drive through forests of
mango and mahogany, skirted by cit-
ron and bamboo, to Coolie-Town, and
thence to Blue Basin, our final stop-
ping-place. We are no "longer on the
level prairie, but climb the rough roads
among the mountains. The slopes,
covered with thick tropical vegetation,
are luxuriant. We make our way
through jungles so thick that it be-
78
A MINIATURE OF HINDUSTAN 79
comes quite dark, and again burst out
into the broad daylight. We pass plan-
tations of sugar and coffee. The offi-
cer tells me much about these people.
There is almost always a sad expres-
sion on their faces. I noticed this even
amongst the younger ones ; something
dreamy and far-away that I could never
understand. Could this have been
handed down from former generations ?
The coolies' lot in India has always
been a hard one, obliged as they were
to suffer from want of food and from
the tyrannical rule of a despotic govern-
ment. Perhaps their patient forbearance
has recorded itself in the facial lines of
this sad, transplanted people.
The East Indian is a graceful being,
soft-skinned, and with movements of
perfect ease. The women have long
black silky hair which ordinarily they
let fall down their backs. Their robe
is one of the utmost simplicity and
beauty, somewhat resembling the toga
8o VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
of ancient Rome. It is made up of
long rolls of white cotton cloth, dis-
posed in graceful folds. The arm is
left bare, as well as the upper bosom
and the lower half of the limbs. I
have seen many of these people wear
this simple costume far more gracefully
than their northern sisters carry their
Worth gowns.
Bracelets, curiously wrought of sil-
ver, ornament the arms and lower limbs.
One woman I saw wore as many as
three dozen. Odd-shaped rings in the
likeness of serpents and animals be-
deck the fingers and toes. The cos-
tume of the men is simple ; trousers of
white duck and a short coat, or, more
often, mere strips of white cotton about
the loins. The latter alone constitutes
the costume of a majority of the men.
We have now entered Coolie-Town,
so let us dismount and walk about so
as to observe the place more closely.
This is a miniature of life in India.
A MINIATURE OF HINDUSTAN 8l
The houses are built of bamboo with
open spaces for doors and windows.
Usually the house is divided into two
rooms, one for sleeping and the other
for cooking. The shops appear the
same as the residence houses. In front,
by the door, usually sit the merchants.
Among them are many silversmiths en-
gaged in turning silver into rings, brace-
lets, and other ornaments. In this we
discover the true cause of the women's
display of jewelry ; it represents the
assets of their husbands' business.
Before leaving the town I observed a
tall man with white robes and graceful,
dignified bearing, enter a large house
built more artistically than the others
and a little apart on a knoll. Heavy
portieres of rich red silk hung about
the large doors. Something about the
man impressed me very much. His
face was one of intelligence, learning,
and refinement — the very seat of seri-
ousness. I paused in front of the place
6
82 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
and would probably have entered had
not my friend come to me hurriedly and
explained that I was standing before the
holy temple, and that for one not of their
faith to enter is great sacrilege. But
through the curtains, left partially open,
I saw before the altar men and women
in prayer. A faint light is reflected
from an old colored bronze lamp, and
their gods rest on the table, flowers, —
representing life, — being strewed about
the room.
Is it not remarkable that these peo-
ple, after leaving home, friends, and
country, should still keep to their relig-
ion as closely as ever ? The coolie is
well built, agile, and graceful. The
negro, though powerful, is clumsy and
ignorant. No wonder these races do
not amalgamate. We hear of no inter-
marriages, there are no social relations
between the two.
In speaking of the coolie, I must not
fail to mention his cousins of the far
A MINIATURE OF HINDUSTAN 83
East, the Chinese coolies. These too
have found a home in Trinidad. Al-
though not so numerous as the East
Indians, they are increasing steadily.
They take to agriculture, and in dispo-
sition are quiet, sullen, or sad. Seldom
do we find a smile lighting their coun-
tenances.
Taking to our carriage again, we were
soon driving through rich tropical for-
ests on our way to Blue Basin. We had
not time to visit the famous pitch lake,
situated in another part of the island,
from which the asphalt used all over
the world is mined. The lake is com-
posed entirely of this pitch, and as soon
as any is taken away, fresh pitch from
underneath arises to take its place.
We pass, on the roadside, fair coolie
women, often carrying baskets on their
heads. It is a pretty sight to see the
look of interest enlivening their faces
as we approach, and their gracious nods
and smiles.
84 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
Thus we travelled On, working our
way into the mountains for some time,
till, at first faintly, then more clearly,
we heard the rush of a great fall of
water. Dismounting, we climbed up
the mountain side ; there, leaning from
a precipice, we saw dashing over a
ledge of rocks a stream of silver water
which finds peace and quiet in yonder
blue pool in the depths below.
But it was getting late and we knew
we must not delay. The thick forests
of the Indies are not the safest place
in the world at night. The soft light
of the evening was falling. By the
rays of the moon we threaded our way
along the road through the forest and
up and down the mountains.
Such a scene inspires the sense of
awe. As one of our great philosophers
said : " Man can best appreciate his
insignificance in comparison with the
grandeur of Nature."
XVI.
CURACAO, THE HOLLAND OF THE
SOUTHERN SEAS.
\17AFTED by the gentle breeze of
* * the trade-winds a germ of Hol-
land has sprung up in this remote
corner of the world ; and like a fresh
twig in spring Curacao has taken' root
and flourished in these southern waters.
No city I have ever seen so resembles
the cities of Holland as Willemstad, the
capital. Leading from a lagoon which
forms the harbor, canals extend through
the city in all directions, with quaint
bridges connecting the land on either
side. The typical Holland scull-boat
has its home in these waters. We see
flying in the harbor the flags of all
85
86 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
nations. Large iron-clad vessels lie
side by side with small sailing craft.
Cura9ao is the one place among these
Islands, outside of St. Lucia, where our
boat was able to draw up to the pier.
The houses, too, are an exact repro-
duction of those built in Holland, with
slanting red-tiled roofs, clean white-
washed sides, dark green shutters ; and
the people themselves dress the same as
their brothers across the water. The
girls and boys wear the heavy wooden
shoes ; the girls look very pretty indeed
with that peculiar white linen head-gear
of the Dutch, and with their short skirts
and white stockings. Many of the men
still wear knickerbockers, with silver
buttons and white hose.
Curagao is by far the cleanest and
most inviting country I visited on this
trip. The very air seems fresh and
stimulating in comparison with that
experienced elsewhere in these parts.
It was with pleasure I accepted the
HOLLAND OF THE SOUTHERN SEAS 87
invitation of Consul Smith to take a
little trip with him in his yacht about
the canals and around the shores of the
island. We visited cane fields, and
orange groves, where the peel of the
orange is converted into that famous
liqueur called Curacao.
The island, which is small and for the
most part barren, is composed largely
of phosphates. These are shipped in
large quantities to the different markets
of the world, the Government deriving
at least half a million dollars a year
therefrom.
There is not a spring nor a well there,
nor any fresh water, the inhabitants be-
ing entirely dependent upon rain-water
for existence ; and as it sometimes does
not rain for a year or two, the natural
supply is often exhausted, and the peo-
ple are obliged to resort to water brought
in barrels by schooners from the Vene-
zuelan coast, fully 90 miles away.
The streets are well-paved and as
88 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
clean as the boulevards of Paris. The
country roads are hard and well-built.
The entire place has about it an air of
success. Everybody seems happy and
well pleased with life ; how different in
this respect from their neighbors the
negroes of the Islands ! The greater
part of the population of Curapao is
also negro ; but, due partially perhaps
to its natural advantages, they seemed
to me to be of a more thrifty sort.
At the shops I purchased several bits
of jewelry wrought in the peculiar Dutch
style. A great many of the names above
the shops have a " Van " as a prefix.
There are many churches in Curacao,
and morality is said to have attained a
higher degree here than at the other
Islands we have visited. As regards the
general morality of the West Indies,
perhaps it will not be out of place for
me to say that the negro's sense of what
is right and what is wrong is dictated
by his feelings and not by his con-
HOLLAND OF THE SOUTHERN SEAS 89
science. His conscience is still in the
embryonic condition, and it will require
some years of experience to make it
strong enough for his actions to be
ruled by his mind. A friend of mine
who had lived for many years in the
Indies and had seen and studied the
negro, told me that he would almost as
soon leave his family near the dens of
wild animals as to leave them on his
estate, remote from the foreign settle-
ments, without the presence of himself
or his friends. Of course this is exagger-
ated, but it only tends to show the feel-
ings of the colonist toward the negro.
XVII.
LA GUAYRA FIRST SCENES IN
VENEZUELA
A PUFF of smoke, then a roar which
is echoed and re-echoed through
the valleys, announced our arrival in
Venezuela. Before us rose boldly the
mountains of the Northeastern Andes,
a Venezuela coast range, crowned by
the Silla de Caracas, a peak rising to
the height of 8600 feet. The city of
La Guayra, which is one of the three
principal seaports of Venezuela, lies
nestled at the foot of this great ridge of
mountains. From our boat in the har-
bor it looked like a Lilliputian village
in the land of the Giants.
There was much official ceremony
90
FIRST SCENES IN VENEZUELA 91
and display of military authority con-
nected with our landing, a part of the
routine which every one is obliged to
go through before he may land in
Venezuela.
First a little boat carrying a yellow
flag brings on board the quarantine
officer. He ascertains from which ports
we come, whether all these ports are
free from being quarantined, and if
there is any sickness aboard. If, after
his scrutiny, all is well, we are met by
the military officer and then again by
the master of the port.
On landing, all our goods must be
examined by the custom-house officers.
Then each one of us in person must go
through an examination, and papers
have to be signed. I was saved all
these annoyances by my friend the
Marquis Montelo, who is a Spaniard
by birth and knows well how to handle
such people.
The Marquis and I had already de-
92 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
cided on the kind of trip we wished to
take through Venezuela ; we had ar-
ranged, among other things, a visit to
the then U. S. Consul, General Thomas,
who has been since made minister, so
as to ascertain if the presence of yellow
fever would keep us away from any of
the places we might wish to visit.
On entering the harbor I noticed a
huge structure of masonry built for
the purpose of breaking the sea as it
rolls in towards Macuto, — since Nature
has not been kind enough to this sea-
port town to build it a harbor in which
ships can anchor without danger of
being injured or going ashore.
This great breakwater was built by
an English company, which for its ex-
pense and trouble is allowed a certain
per cent, of the revenue collected as its
share. I met the manager of the Com-
pany, who talked interestingly to me
and gave me much information regard-
ing the English, German, and other
FIRST SCENES IN VENEZUELA 93
foreign enterprises in Venezuela. He
told me that he regretted having ever
sunk any money in Venezuela him-
self, and that the breakwater was not
financially successful. He spoke also
of the railroad which runs from La
Guayra to Cardcas, a distance in a
straight line over the mountains of only
six miles, but from the necessity of
winding around the valley so as to gain
access above, the distance is lengthened
fourfold. This railroad, likewise, was
built by an English syndicate, and, as
I later learned in Cardcas from Sir
Vincent who represented the Company,
they were assured a certain per cent, of
interest on the money invested, which
up to that time, he told me, they had
not been able to obtain in full from the
Government. It may not be out of place
for me to remark here that one of the
greatest disadvantages the present Gov-
ernment has to contend with is the ex-
istence of contracts and agreements
94 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
entered into by the previous ruler,
President Blanco, with various cor-
porations and syndicates, which are
thoroughly impracticable.
After our baggage had been examined
it was shipped at once to Macuto, a
small town about six miles from La
Guayra. Macuto is the Newport of
Venezuela, and hither come all the rich
and fashionable from Caracas and other
cities of the country. As this happened
to be the seasonable time, and as the
Marquis is well acquainted among the
prominent South American families, I
agreed with him that it was best to stay
at Macuto for a few days before going
to Caracas.
On walking up from the quays at La
Guayra, I was at once impressed by
the typical South American streets,
narrow and roughly laid with cobble-
stones. The houses on both sides sel-
dom stood over two stories, and in
many cases the people could shake
FIRST SCENES IN VENEZUELA 95
hands from window to window across
the way. There is no regular plan laid
out for the streets, but they run in all
directions. The city being built at the
very base of the great mountains is hilly,
in many places even precipitous.
The houses are not well built, being
usually of rough stone plastered over
with a sort of cement. They are roofed
with dirty-looking red tiles, and lack
the neat shutters we observed in
Curapao. An iron balcony stands out
from the upper windows. This is typi-
cal of the South American houses.
The shops are not much to boast of.
Their articles are displayed in a miscel-
laneous manner in the windows and
lack neatness and system — a character-
istic of many of the people also.
La Guayra, being a seaport town, is
quite a lively place, and considerable
commerce is carried on in coffee, sugar,
cocoa, hides, and other products. There
are some very large warehouses stocked
g6 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
well with the country's products from
all sections.
Public buildings may be seen here and
there, but as a whole the city does not
present a very picturesque appearance.
We called on our American friend,
Mr. Thomas, the United States Consul,
and accepted an invitation from him for
dinner. His home is situated on the
outskirts of the town, on a high hill
overlooking the port. It is built in the
Spanish style with pretty patio or court,
having a splashing fountain surrounded
by palms and exotics. It is a delight-
fully cool and remarkably pleasant
place.
Before going to Macuto we went to
the harbor and bade farewell to our
pleasant companions on the Solent.
The boat grew smaller in the distance
until nothing remained but a pleasant
memory and a trail of smoke.
XVIII.
MACUTO, THE NEWPORT OF
VENEZUELA
PHE small dark cars which carried
us to Macuto corresponded with
the railroad itself, which had been
built some years ago, and was a tumble-
down, shaky affair.
Macuto lies only about six miles
from La Guayra, yet it took us nearly
an hour to reach our destination. The
engine broke four times on the way
thither, and each time all the passengers
took a hand in repairing. To call the
two rails that run side by side parallel
would be offering insult to geometry.
This was my first experience on a4
South American railway, but later the
97
98 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
railroads which run into the country
for long distances and over dangerous
passes astonished me. The great feats
of civil engineering and the expendi-
ture in making these roads are some-
thing for Venezuela to boast of.
Arriving at Macuto, we took quarters
at a hotel facing the sea, the principal
feature of the same being a wide veranda
running all the way around, giving it
the appearance of an Italian villa.
Although rather roughly built, yet the
delicate colors in which it is painted
and the artistic manner in which the
rooms open upon the verandas, together
with its situation at the base of the
great mountains, make it a charming
place indeed.
At dinner I noted a man of very
striking appearance, a tall and hand-
some young fellow of thirty. His face
showed that he had endured consider-
able hardships, and his chin had that
strength which suggested the idea of
THE NEWPORT OF VENEZUELA 99
his having come out successfully to his
own liking. I noticed that he wore a
college pin. This brought back to me
my own school days and at once put us
on terms of friendship. He had re-
turned a few days before from the gold
fields of the Orinoco, where he had
spent much of his time for the last ten
years. His health failing him at col-
lege, and his father's business at the
same time doing likewise, he was com-
pelled to fall back on his own resources.
Leaving the luxuries of the life he had
been accustomed to, he worked his way
in canoes with two Englishmen and
some Indians up the Orinoco pn their
way to the gold fields. The first year
was unsuccessful, and except for rein-
forcements the idea would have been
abandoned ; but gold having been
found all through that section of the
country, they still worked diligently in
the search. Twice was he taken down
with fever, and the entire party was in-
100 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
jured by sickness ; the country, morever,
was infested with reptiles and wild ani-
mals, and many of the roving Indians
in that territory were unfriendly to
strangers. Such is a brief outline of
the story he told me. He was now
quite satisfied with what he had accom-
plished, and, as vice-president of one
of the large mining companies, was
returning to New York. I learned
from him much that was of interest in
connection with the disputed territory
of this section, the accuracy of which
was afterwards confirmed by the Ameri-
can Minister.
There are many parks in Macuto,
whose natural beauty is enhanced by
art, in which the young people take
great pleasure. After the surf-bathing,
which takes place at about ten o'clock
in the morning, the ladies all array
themselves in light gowns with large
sun-bonnets and listen to the military
band playing in the Plaza. Hither
THE NEWPORT OF VENEZUELA IOI
also stroll the beaux of the place, and
there is an informal greeting and gen-
eral good time. About an hour later
the ladies disappear, and are not again
seen in public until, say, five o'clock,
when the band again plays in the Plaza
and the fair maids, arrayed this time
entirely in black, their heads adorned
with the Spanish mantilla, present a
more formal aspect.
Spanish is the language spoken, and
although I believed myself to have ac-
quired some knowledge of it while in
Mexico and other Spanish-speaking
countries, I was frequently at fault to
express my thoughts. Some of the
girls I met were able to speak a little
French or German. One of these, in
whose company I found myself fre-
quently, who had had the advantages
of a Paris education, helped me con-
siderably. There was one phrase in
my Spanish-American guide-book which
I always repeated shortly after an in-
102 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
troduction, with my best accent. The
phrase read " Vd(usted) es muyamable"
meaning " You are charming," rightly
opining that these Southern queens are
just as susceptible to kind phrases as
are their Northern sisters.
It was with the most pleasant recol-
lections and kindest feelings that we
bade adieu to our friends in Macuto,
a few days later, when we left for Cara-
cas, a gem in the Andes.
XIX.
CARACAS, A CAPITAL IN THE
VENEZUELAN ANDES.
\17ITH the tooting and screeching of
* * our English locomotives and the
ringing of gongs we departed Monday
afternoon from the railroad station at
La Guayra for Caracas.
The cars were typical English coaches
and the locomotives also were English
built. Telegraph and telephone lines
also are in operation in all the principal
cities of Venezuela. A few minutes'
ride brought us to the crest of the hill
overlooking the city, from whence we
obtained a bird's-eye view of the place
at which we had spent the last few days.
But it was not until some minutes after-
103
IO4 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
ward, in winding our way up the steep
precipices, thousands of feet above the
sea, that we appreciated the magnitude
of this railroad enterprise and its mar-
vels of engineering and construction.
The St. Gothard Pass in Switzerland is
nothing in comparison, neither is
Georgetown in Colorado, nor the Mexi-
can Railroad which thunders down the
mountains from the City of Mexico on
its way to Vera Cruz. Like flies on a
wall we scaled the dizzy precipice.
The mountains extended as far as the
eye can reach in either direction, while
back of us, thousands of feet below,
rolled the blue sea with here and there
a white speck signifying a ship bound
for a distant port.
When a little later our train climbed
over the crest, there lay before us the
beautiful valley of the Rio Guaire with
the fair city of Caracas in its midst.
We were soon lodged in our comfort-
able quarters at the Grand Hotel, where
A CAPITAL IN THE ANDES 105
I met an old travelling companion. We
three had a pleasant dinner, comparing
notes of travel and discussing the recent
topics of the day, both in Europe and
America.
The Marquis called me betimes the
following morning, as we had many
places to visit and much to do the next
few days before leaving Caracas. We
took a Venezuelan breakfast, which
consists only of chocolate or coffee,
rolls, and cheese. This is called the
early breakfast. Toward noon the sub-
stantial breakfast is served, which is
very much the same as their later din-
ner. I have noticed as many as eight or
sometimes ten courses being served at
ordinary hotels at these breakfasts and
dinners. As a rule the cooking in
Venezuela and the other South Ameri-
can countries is typically Spanish. They
seem to know no limit to the use of
peppers, garlic, onions and the like,
which are apt to spoil a foreigner's stom-
106 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
ach if he is not very careful. The chilli-
ness of the King of Tabasco might well
be relieved by the seasoning of South
American food.
A very pretty custom observed in
these countries is to serve the meals in
an open patio. At dinner this is espe-
cially pleasant, under the blue canopy of
heaven set with twinkling stars. Music
is usually near to lend its soft charm to
the hour.
After the light breakfast we started
out on our wanderings. My first im-
pressions of Caracas came in the form
of an agreeable surprise. I had always
heard of this as one of the most beauti-
ful cities in South America, yet I had
not conceived of the grandeur and taste
that could be displayed in building a
city in this remote corner of the globe.
At the intersections of the streets are
pretty plazas, the most important being
the Plaza Bolivar, which is quite near
to the four principal business streets of
A CAPITAL IN THE ANDES 107
the city. Richard Harding Davis well
called Caracas the Paris of South
America.
What a foreigner first notices is the
decidedly French air of the city. The
very names above the shops and the
signs naming the articles for sale are in
French. French bonnets, gowns, neck-
wear, etc., adorn the shop windows.
There are also a few German enterprises
in Caracas, but more especially among
the larger wholesale dealers.
American interests are steadily grow-
ing in Venezuela. One of the most
prominent names in commercial and
general importance in Caracas is that
of my pleasant acquaintance, Mr. Henry
Boulton, who, with his brothers, is a
large importer of grain, breadstuff's, and
other commodities, and in return exports
great quantities of coffee, cocoa, hides,
and other Venezuelan products. These
brothers now run a splendidly equipped
line of steamers between Venezuela and
IO8 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
New York, and it is due to their energy
and perseverance that a large share of
the trade relations between the United
States and Venezuela have been brought
about. The Boultons have been con-
ducting business between these two
countries for many years, dating back
to the thirties, when only small sailing
sloops were engaged for the purpose.
The city of Caracas I found clean
and well kept, from the public build-
ings to the streets themselves. The
fresh invigorating air, sweeping down
from the Coast Range breathes a life of
restlessness and independence into these
people. It is no wonder that they were
among the first to throw off the yoke of
tyranny and subjection.
The residence houses of Caracas are
principally one story high, built of
adobe walls sometimes two or three feet
thick, having windows with iron grat-
ings and broad sills where it is the cus-
tom late in the afternoon for the pretty
A CAPITAL IN THE ANDES 109
senoritas to sit, arrayed in becoming
toilets, observing the passers-by and
chatting with their friends.
The interior of the houses is always
in sharp contrast with their exterior.
The latter is modest and of rough ap-
pearance, but entering the short hall-
way into the patio, is like going into a
different world. The patio, which usu-
ally has a fountain, is surrounded by
palms, ferns, and other tropical plants.
Broad stone hallways lead from its space
to the different rooms through arches
graceful with ivy and other creeping
vines. I have been in some houses in
Caracas the interiors of which were
decorated in the most artistic and luxuri-
ous manner, Turkish rugs covering the
floors and tapestries bedecking the walls.
The water supply of the city is brought
from the mountains by means of aque-
ducts, constructed by the former presi-
dent, Guzman Blanco. Tramways tra-
verse some of the streets. Many shops
IIO VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
bear an air of foreign relationship, and
the cafes have adopted the French cus-
tom of setting small tables on the broad
sidewalks, where it is usual for persons
to sit and read during the long days,
sipping the different beverages of the
country.
On the outskirts of the town there is
a sort of park called El Puente Hierro,
which has been much improved of late
years. Here are many cafes, dance-
halls and other delights for frivolous
pleasure-seekers. On Sunday afternoon
it is the fashion to take a drive to this
park, when the ladies of the better class
sit in their carnages and listen to the
music, while the peons, swelling the
crowd and paying their few coppers
here and there, have a great holiday.
The people of Venezuela do not seem
to know what we would call a good
horse. A gentleman at whose home I
visited, showed me a horse which he had
imported from Peru which was consid-
A CAPITAL IN THE ANDES III
ered a grand specimen. He had paid
two thousand dollars for the animal,
but I much doubt if the same one would
have brought more than two hundred at
the New York Horse Exchange.
Many of the private carriages are
made in France, usually built in the
style of our victorias, and are certainly
good looking. The horses are small,
resembling our Western ponies. The
bicycle was then almost unknown here,
as in many other places in South Amer-
ica, although I saw one or two, which
were such curiosities that people stopped
their work to follow the machines, and
the urchins of the streets ran after them
shouting and yelling.
The president lives in an unpreten-
tious house not far from the business
part of the city. In sharp contrast to
the modest appearance of his home, and
the genuineness and unpretentiousness
of the man, is the ostentatious military
display with which he is surrounded. A
112 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
group of trusty cowboys, mounted on
horses and armed with carbines and
revolvers, form his especial body-guard
and follow him everywhere. The presi-
dent told me that some of these men
had been through many daring engage-
ments with him, and would willingly, at
any moment, sacrifice themselves for the
life of their ruler. He is now having
built, on a hill overlooking the city, a
beautiful house of white stone. Presi-
dent Crespo is a man of very moderate
tastes and is probably spending so much
money on his home less for his own
gratification than in order to have his
surroundings more in accordance with
his position. He has won the favor of
the people by living an unassuming life,
thus coming into closer connection with
the masses.
>•/ I
PRESIDENT CRESPO, OF VENEZUELA.
XX.
CARACAS — REFLECTIONS ON THE PAST
AND PRESENT.
THE day had been unusually close,
* the sun shining through a cloud-
less sky. Toward evening, the earth
groaned forth its sighs of agony. The
people rushed from their homes and
places of amusement only to be dashed
to the ground and crushed beneath the
ruins of their crumbling city. Such
was the sight on the 26th of March,
1812, when the great earthquake sur-
prised the city and destroyed twelve
thousand of its people.
Vainly did the Spanish rulers of the
province use their cunning and deceit
in trying to make the superstitious peo-
s 113
114 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
pie of Venezuela believe this an act of
God to show his vengeance on their up-
rising against their mother-country.
It was but a year previous, on the 5th
of July, that the great Miranda, then of
middle age, stood before a document
which he had drawn upland with other
patriotic men of his country signed a
declaration of independence for the
people of Venezuela. This was the
first formal proclamation of indepen-
dence, which was soon after to bring
many into battle and cause a great
loss of life and property.
Much might be said about Miranda,
whose life from beginning to end was
like an invention of romance. It was
he, who, coming over with Lafayette,
helped fight for the American colonies
against the British crown. His name
can be no more suitably commented
upon than by placing it side by side
with that of Bolivar, the great Liberator
of South America.
CARACAS, PAST AND PRESENT 115
It is needless to speak of Bolivar, who
spent his life in the cause of his country,
leading on the revolutionists to victory
after victory. He starved along with the
soldiers, and tramped through jungles
in the fierce tropical sun, sharing the
common lot of all ; and at last, through
his high aims and lofty character, ac-
complished for South America the lib-
eration and independence of five of its
great countries.
The Palacio Federal, which is at
present used as the Capitol building of
Venezuela, is a large picturesque struc-
ture, whose rooms are fitted in an ap-
propriate manner. Here are paintings
of the many presidents of Venezuela,
and of various generals and soldiers
who fought in the cause of their country.
One could spend weeks studying the
relics of the past in connection with
things of the present. I passed a few
hours in this building in company with
that eminent scholar and scientist, Dr.
Il6 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
Adolph Ernst, the greatest savant of
Venezuela, and a man of high reputation
in the scientific circles of both Europe
and America.
While in Caracas one should not fail
to visit the home of Guzman Blanco,
situated in the suburb of Antimino. It
is a palace fit for a czar or emperor. Sur-
rounded by parks of rare beauty, and in
itself a grand and stately home, it pre-
sents a unique appearance to the visitor.
The presidents have all had their hands
quite full in maintaining their hold of
office. Continuous warfare, due to
partisan jealousies and petty ambi-
tions, waged for the last seventy-five
years, has kept the country from pro-
gressing more rapidly.
As soon as a president is firmly seat-
ed a new man will spring up and claim
the power. Such has been the common
experience in past years. Guzman
Blanco alone ruled for nearly twenty
years of comparative quiet and peace.
CARACAS, PAST AND PRESENT 1 17
The population of Caracas now
numbers about eighty thousand, while
the country of Venezuela numbers some
two and a half millions. Of the eighty
thousand, six thousand are foreigners.
It is said that Venezuela has fewer in-
habitants than half a century ago, and
we can well see that when the fathers
and their sons who are old enough are
engaged in bitter war there is no chance
for the population to increase.
It was under President Jose Gregorio
Monagas, in March, 1854, that the slaves
were liberated, and thus the country did
away with one of the great barbarisms
of the age. Too much stress cannot be
laid upon this^important fact.
The color line, while at present still
noticed in Venezuela, is not nearly so
marked as in the countries of the North.
Here are often found inter- marriages,
and it is no breach of social propriety
for a white person to marry one having
a taint of colored blood.
Il8 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
Nearly twenty years after the emanci-
pation of the slaves and shortly after
Guzman Blanco was made president, he
expelled the monks and nuns from the
country. Some two or three years later,
that wise and far-seeing president, vexed
at certain actions of the Archbishop, and
seeing that the Church of Rome was
becoming a strong feature and a ruling
power of the State, expelled the Arch-
bishop and papal nuncio. Shortly after
this he issued that famous circular which
caused the world to look at him more
than ever. It set forth that religious
actions are free to everybody, and that
he as president could not allow to any
one religion advantage over another.
That there are many churches in
Caracas, the continual chiming of bells
both day and night is sufficient to attest.
The cathedral, a large building of no
especial beauty, dates back to the lyth
century.
A newspaper in a foreign land is al-
CARACAS, PAST AND PRESENT 119
ways of interest. There are seven news-
papers in the city of Caracas, and a few
of the dailies are especially good as re-
gards the domestic events of the day,
though I must say their foreign news is
rather scanty.
Caracas has some pretty suburbs,
among which might be named Antimino,
where President Blanco had his former
home ; also El Calvario, a fine park on
a hill overlooking the town.
Before leaving the streets of Caracas
I must not fail to mention a custom the
people have of naming their shops. On
the signs we read such names as " Isle
of Emerald," " The Fountain of Glad-
ness," and others still more odd. Some-
thing similar to this, is the custom of
naming the children after patron saints.
It is not uncommon to .hear a mother
call her boy across the street " Blessed
Peter," " Jesus," or other names taken
from the Bible. It is also customary on
the baptism of a child to choose a god-
I2O VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
father for it. He is supposed to care
for the child, and acts in very many
respects the same as the natural parent,
and it is quite true that there is almost
as much affection shown between god-
parent and god-son as between father
and son.
One evening the Marquis and myself
went to the Theatre Municipal. It has
a seating capacity of 2500 and is built
with much refinement of taste. As in
some foreign theatres, the lower galleries
are divided into boxes. In the rear, and
directly opposite to the stage, is the
president's private box, where I saw the
president in company with his wife and
suite enjoying the performance. The
parquet seems to be occupied only by
men, who ordinarily do not come in
evening dress, although the people in
the boxes are expected to be thus at-
tired.
That the Southern peoples are music-
lovers has been often noted. The
CARACAS, PAST AND PRESENT 121
smallest city of Mexico and South
America will have a military band,
quite the equal of our best bands.
There seems to be a musical sentiment
inborn in these people which has been
developed into genuine appreciation of
the art.
On Thursday evenings the Govern-
ment military band plays in the Plaza,
where, coquettishly wandering in the
shadows, the sefioritas respond to their
suitors. Before North American cus-
toms became introduced into Caracas,
love-making among the best classes
of Venezuelans was European in char-
acter. The suitor might not call on his
lady unless some member of the family
was present, even down to the very day
of the marriage, and a breach of this
custom was reason enough to lose the
respect of one's friends. But now more
natural manners in this respect have
superseded the old, and the cavalier
sends his card to the lady upon whom
122 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
he wishes to call, just as in the United
States.
While the band is playing the national
anthem, I walk with my friend to an-
other park. This plaza has no pretty-
colored tiles, but instead there is a car-
pet of velvet grass ; and instead of
fancy posts and lamps, the solemn
palm holds sway. On this night, as the
breeze carries to us the strains of the
patriotic hymn, we stop before a statue
of George Washington erected by Gen-
eral Blanco after his visit to the United
States some years ago. As we stand in
silence we cannot help feeling a strong
sympathy and affection for the people
of Venezuela, who have fought for inde-
pendence much in the same way as did
our ancestors.
XXI.
RAILROADING IN VENEZUELA
A FTER having spent a week in Cara-
**• cas, I decided to bid adieu to
my friend the Marquis and investigate
further regarding the country and its
people. There were rumors afloat of
yellow fever raging in the districts I
intended travelling through, and it was
with no little anxiety that the evening
before leaving, while calling at the
United States Minister's house, I in-
quired regarding the report. It was a
great relief to be informed that the
health of the country was normal and
that I need feel no special uneasiness.
There are of course nearly always
sporadic cases of yellow fever in the
123
124 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
tropics. I shall never forget one even-
ing when I entered Vera Cruz from the
City of Mexico. I had intended mak-
ing connection with the French Trans-
atlantic boat on the way to Cuba, but
through miscalculations was obliged
to remain for some time in this coast
town. It was during the epidemic of
yellow fever, and the papers reported
each day a long list of the new victims.
Such experiences are not very frequent,
but after one has passed through them
safely, it tends toward making him — I
would not say more reckless, but less
inclined to credit rumors, most of which
when tested prove to be untrue.
The railroad between Caracas and
Valencia is owned and operated by
German capitalists. It makes a day's
journey through one of the most inter-
esting countries I have ever visited.
Soon after leaving Caracas the road
winds about the mountains. The fierce
puffing and steaming of the locomotive
RAILROADING IN VENEZUELA 125
shows we are climbing a very steep
grade. Now the train crosses deep ra-
vines spanned by iron bridges which
look in comparison with the heights
like filigree-work. Another time it flanks
the side of some deep ravine whose
slopes are clothed with thick jungles
and forests that spread a shade of dark-
ness over all, or, again climbing the
summits of highest mountains, over
roads which show the marvellous in-
genuity of the civil engineer.
After the first few hours thus spent,
we entered a somewhat less hilly coun-
try. Green valleys and well-cultivated
coffee plantations spread before us like
a panorama.
Thanks to these and other railroads
which are soon to be constructed, the
vast resources and riches of the country
will be brought into closer touch with
those great winged messengers of our
civilized world, the ocean steamers.
It is curious to note how slow and ob-
126 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
stinate the peons are about adopting the
customs and conveniences of civiliza-
tion. Yet this trait is in accord with
the nature and habit of the general pop-
ulation of South America. Many of
these Venezuelans prefer to ride for
days on the back of a miserable little
burro, climbing dangerous paths, rather
than submit to modern civilization and
avail themselves of the conveniences of
the railroad. I have noticed many long
trains of burros, heavily laden with
coffee, cocoa, and other articles of the
country, slowly and with difficulty bear-
ing their produce to the market, al-
though it might just as well and more
cheaply have been sent over the rail.
Before passing from the mountain re-
gions I must not forget to make mention
of the great South American eagle which
we saw soaring high into the clouds
and then floating leisurely along. It is
among these mountains that the true
sportsman most revels. Before my visit
RAILROADING IN VENEZUELA 127
to Venezuela the fiercest game I had
ever hunted was the wildcat, or the
bear ; now I can better appreciate the
feelings with which an African or South
American traveller relates his tales of
adventure.
The distance of the stations apart de-
pends upon the country through which
the road passes. One often rides many
miles without coming to a stop. It
must be remembered that a great part
of Venezuela is still unexplored, and a
greater part is uninhabited. A coun-
try with an area of six hundred thou-
sand square miles and a population of
only about two and a half million is in-
deed sparingly peopled. The principal
export is coffee, which reaches the
value of many million dollars annually.
Other exports are cocoa, hides, skins,
feathers, rubber, and gold.
On leaving Caracas the cars were
rather well filled, but towards afternoon
there were comparatively few passen-
128 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
gers remaining, most of them having
reached their destination at some of
the smaller stations. It was late in
the afternoon before we skirted the
shores of Lake Valencia, one of the
largest bodies of water in Venezuela,
whose shores have been the scene of
several bloody engagements during
revolutions. There are a few small
villages beside it, a rough boat plying
between them, but, in correspondence
with the rest of the country, it is little
utilized.
A complete system of long-distance
telephones operates between cities and
towns along the line. One can tele-
phone from Valencia to Caracas, with
less difficulty than from New York to
Chicago. It is quite surprising to see
how quickly the people have taken to
the telephone ; a great many of the resi-
dences both in Caracas and Valencia
have their long-distance wires.
It was growing dusk ; the latter part
RAILROADING IN VENEZUELA 129
of the journey had been rather lone-
some, travelling over the great rolling
country. I knew comparatively little
of the places I was about to visit, and
with the vague rumors of yellow fever
still in my ears, I began' to wish that I
were back in Chicago or New York.
At the last station the passengers sit-
ting behind me vacated their seats.
While meditating in this way I did not
at first notice a new passenger. After
a little, the car coming to a stop with
an abrupt jerk, I turned around. I
could not see the man's face, as it was
covered by a newspaper he was reading,
but there appeared in large heavy print
on the side of the sheet facing me the
words : " The Chicago Sunday Trib-
une" Having met but few Americans
since my arrival in Venezuela, to be
confronted during this day-dream of
mine by a man who, ten chances to
one, was from the same city as myself,
was indeed a queer coincidence. In
130 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
true American style, I reached over and
presented my card, and soon was in
conversation with Mr. Russell, an
American from Chicago travelling in
Venezuela.
XXII.
VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO
FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA
F^ ARKNESS has covered the country
*^ and only after long intervals there
shines out a faint gleam from some
miserable hut. The train rushes on
through the wilderness for hours, until
far off in the distance below us appear
the many lights of the city of Valencia.
With the ringing of bells and the
noisy rumbling of the cars the train
rushes into the station. This is the
terminal of the German railroad be-
tween Caracas and Valencia.
The keeper of the hotel, a good-
natured, stout Spanish woman, gave me
the key to my apartments, and it was
131
132 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
so large and heavy that, while passing
through the dark, cold stone halls, I
could not help thinking what a useful
weapon of defence it would be in case
of necessity. The hotels are seldom
more than two stories high, and this one
was no exception. A military band
was playing a Spanish air in the plaza
opposite, while the inevitable senoritas,
robed in their attractive gowns, prome-
naded leisurely about. Bringing a large
easy chair out on the veranda outside
my apartments, I lighted my pipe and
enjoyed the unique surroundings of my
first night in Valencia.
Soon afterwards I was asleep on the
typical bed of South America. It had
a canopy at the top from which fine net-
ting hung down around the four sides.
When the sleeper is comfortably situated
for the night this is tucked in at the sides
of the bed, thus forming a protection
from the mosquitoes, gnats, and other
insects so disagreeable in the South.
VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO 133
In a book I had recently read on
Venezuela the writer said that Valencia
is the most beautiful city in South
America, or at least in Venezuela. I
dissent entirely. I think Caracas by
far the grander, owing chiefly to its
situation, although Valencia is by no
means to be despised. Surrounding the
entire city loom up the great crests of
the Cordillera Range, while in the farther
distance, reflecting the sun, are the
higher mountains.
One South American city is very
much like another. The market-places
are interesting features of all. So are
the churches, the pleasant parks, and
those oddities which have been men-
tioned in previous chapters. The better
residence section of Valencia is situated
in a suburban district about two miles
away. Connecting this with the main
city are small tramway cars drawn by
mules, which a peon causes to gallop
along in the hot sun, thus making good
134 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
speed between the two places. Here
there are very many pretty villas sur-
rounded by parks. Even the most
ordinary of these presents an attractive
appearance.
There are always some soldiers to be
seen in Valencia. The uniform of the
Venezuelan soldiers consists of bright
red trousers and a short blue coat.
Usually these warriors present anything
but an impressive appearance, for they
pay little attention to their attire or
the way they carry themselves. The
equipment of the president's guard dif-
fers to the extent of wearing white duck
suits and high black boots, with a short
sabre and carbine.
There are direct lines of communica-
tion connecting Valencia with the other
principal cities of Venezuela. The
Bank of Venezuela has a branch in
Valencia. The city has many large
mercantile houses and warehouses of
importance, for in the immediate neigh-
VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO 135
borhood is one of the most fertile sec-
tions of Venezuela.
To the westward and farther south
the country is still largely unknown.
Vast forests and jungles, the home of
the leopard and panther, occupy much
of the territory.
Valencia is the second city of the
Republic in size, and has about forty
thousand inhabitants.
After spending a few days in this
beautiful city, I left one afternoon on
the railroad for Puerto Cabello, the sea-
port town of this part of Venezuela.
From thence the boat sails to the wild
district of Maracaibo, from which place
connections are made with steamers
sailing eastward along the Spanish Main
and Trinidad to the Orinoco.
The railroad connecting Valencia
with the seaport town of Puerto Cabello
is owned and controlled by British capi-
talists. While the engineering and con-
struction are less daring than those of
136 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
the road between La Guayra and Cara^,
cas, still the region which it traverses
is one of grandeur.
On the verge of this mountainous
district, where the coffee plant covers
the slopes and the cocoa is cultivated
in the valleys to perfection, is the inter-
esting village of San Esteban. It has
been founded principally by the Ger-
man population of Puerto Cabello, and
here, within a short distance from the
city, the wealthy people of Puerto
Cabello have their homes, preferring the
delightfully cool climate found here to
the hot and unhealthy coast regions.
It was towards nine o'clock when the
train reached Puerto Cabello. The
most notable part of the journey is the
gradual rise of the thermometer until,
on reaching the city itself, the heat is
almost suffocating. Situated as it is in
an indentation of the coast, where the
winds cannot reach it, the heat is some-
thing terrific.
VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO 137
Puerto Cabello, the Spanish for the
queer title, The Port of a Hair, is so
called on the pretence that within its
safe harbors a ship might almost be tied
by so frail a tether as a hair. This is
one of the few places on the coast where
a boat can draw up alongside the pier.
It is a busy place, about fifteen million
pounds of coffee, to mention one thing,
being shipped annually. It is the second
port in commercial importance in Vene-
zuela. Of its inhabitants, about seven
thousand in number are mainly engaged
in the commerce of the exporters and
importers. Eight different steamship
lines ply regularly between this port and
England, France, Germany, Holland,
the United States, and the West Indes.
There are many Germans, as well as
other foreigners, among the residents.
Puerto Cabello has been made interest-
ing by the many thrilling incidents be-
fore and during the Revolution. It was
in this hot territory that Sir Francis
138 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
Drake, the great English buccaneer,
after exploring the coast, succumbed to
yellow fever.
At the entrance to the harbor, nearly
opposite the city, is the old fort where
Simon Bolivar, the Liberator of Vene-
zuela, was placed in command when
twenty-six years of age by General
Miranda, who was then leading the
country in its first struggle for liberty.
In the dark dungeons of the fort were
gathered the Spanish prisoners and
officials seized by the revolutionary
party. Bolivar had a sub-lieutenant in
whom he placed great confidence. It
was the treachery of this man that
caused Bolivar his first misfortune.
The lieutenant was bought over by the
other party, and one night let the pris-
oners free. Young Bolivar escaped in
the nick of time, and after swimming
several miles to shore, found refuge in
a hut farther down the coast, while all
the ammunition and arms captured by
VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO 139
the insurgents again fell into the hands
of the Spaniards. Part of the fort is
now used as a prison and hospital, and
another portion of it as a barrack, where
a handful of soldiers are stationed. It
is situated on a low island, on the
borders of which grow palms and under-
brush. To this place I saw consigned
every evening gangs of criminals whose
feet were chained and weighted by
great iron balls to prevent them from
escaping during the time they were at
work sweeping the streets, building,
dredging, or such other labors as might
be assigned to them.
With the quaint City of Puerto
Cabello to our left, and the fort to our
right, one evening the cables are silently
lifted from the pier and our boat glides
out to the open sea.
XXIII.
LAKE MARACAIBO TO THE ORINOCO
ALONG THE SPANISH MAIN
CROM Puerto Cabello the Red " D "
*• line sends a small steamer west-
ward, skirting the shores of the Gulf of
Venezuela for some miles until the
strait of Maracaibo is reached, entering
which, and turning southward, the boat
finds its way into the lake of Mara-
caibo,
This lake is a magnificent body of
fresh water with an area of two thou-
sand square miles. The basin is almost
anywhere navigable for small vessels.
The town of Maracaibo, situated on the
western side of the strait which forms
the entrance to the lake, is the emporium
140
ALONG THE SPANISH MAIN 141
of the whole region of the eastern Cor-
dilleras, including districts in Colombia.
At the close of the i5th century,
when the spirit of adventure and ro-
mance filled the heart of every grandee
of Spain and every Italian navigator —
in those grand old days, Americus Ves-
pucci sailed across the sea in search of
new lands. After coasting the shore he
entered this beautiful strait and found
there, built on piles and rafts, a strange
city, where the natives were paddling
about in canoes. It reminded the ex-
plorer so much of the city of Venice, in
his native Italy, that he called it Little
Venice, since altered to Venezuela.
Even now, situated a little distance
from Maracaibo, the city Vespucci de-
scribed, is another city called Santa
Rosa, where the natives still build their
houses on rafts, like those of the lake
regions around the City of Mexico.
There is nothing of special interest
about Maracaibo. It is a city of thirty
142 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
thousand inhabitants, and of consider-
able commercial importance. The riv-
ers of the United States of Colombia
flow into the lake, and these rivers and
good mule-roads make it a centre of
commerce. Among the notable build-
ings are the palace of the governor, the
federal college, custom-house, market-
place, theatre, and churches. The city
has about ten miles of street railway,
and in sharp contrast with its romantic
surroundings are abundant telephones
and electric lights.
Some distance inward, back of Mara-
caibo, is a town called Santa Marta,
behind which rises the Nevada peak,
said to be the highest on the coast.
This is the most easterly port of Colom-
bia, and is noteworthy from the fact
that Bolivar took refuge and died here
when driven into exile by Paez.
Leaving Maracaibo, the boat sails
eastward for several days along the
Spanish Main. Passing between the
ALONG THE SPANISH MAIN 143
island of Curasao and Venezuela, and
again- sailing by the towns of Puerto
Cabello and La Guayra, the steamer en-
tered the beautiful straits separating the
island of Margarita from the peninsula
of Paria. This island has been made
famous to the world for the numerous
beautiful pearls found along its coast.
Here the Indians in olden times, with
their crude diving apparatus, risked
their lives in waters infested by sharks
and other man-eating fish, to carry on
trade with the foreigners for articles
which they valued more than pearls.
Some hours after sailing by this beau-
tiful mountainous island of Margarita
the boat entered the capital of Trini-
dad, Port au Spain, which we had vis-
ited on our downward cruise. From
here a small side-wheel American boat,
such as are used on the Mississippi
and other Western rivers, left Port au
Spain, and steamed through the bay
into the mouth of the Orinoco, several
144 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
days later reaching Ciudad Bolivar. The
boats are owned by North Americans
and are manned by American crews.
It is only in the latter part of the
journey to Ciudad Bolivar that one be-
gins to realize the beauty of this ro-
mantic river, and not until many miles
farther up does it attain its highest
grandeur. On entering the mouth the
banks are low and marshy. Great forests
extend back on either side for many
miles. Once in a while one sees vil-
lages built upon piles in the marshes,
the sides of the houses composed of
thatched leaves, and roofed with bark,
where those simple people live who lead
a wild adventurous life in canoes on
the waters.
The time required to make the jour-
ney to Ciudad Bolivar depends upon the
season of the year. Between May and
October, when there is a rise in the river
of many feet, navigation is much easier
than at low water, and the time required
ALONG THE SPANISH MAIN 145
is three days. During the dry season
much more time is necessary.
Ciudad Bolivar is situated 240 miles
from the sea, where the river is four
and a half miles wide and navigable for
steamers. It is very like to the other
Venezuelan cities. The volume of busi-
ness is enormous compared with the
population of the country.
In the last few years the export of
gold has been valued high in the
millions. Cigar manufacturing is carried
on to a large extent. Great warehouses
containing stores from the interior give
evidence of its commercial importance.
Ciudad Bolivar is the only city prop-
erly speaking in a district covering half
the territory of Venezuela. The resi-
dents are Spanish, German, Italian, and
negroes from the Indies. All there is
of interest here can be seen in a few
days.
Flowing into the Orinoco at various
distances are many streams, some deep
146 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
and extending far into the mountains.
One, the Meta, flows within two days' dis-
tance of Bogota, the capital of Colom-
bia, and is so far navigable for small
boats. Another, the Cassiquiare, flows
towards the Amazon, and by a sort of
natural canal, actually connects the
Amazon with the Orinoco, so that a
small boat entering the Gulf of Paria,
which is the mouth of the Orinoco,
can work its way up the Orinoco and
come out through the mouth of the
Amazon.
Baron von Humboldt in 1808 made a
journey along the entire course of the
Orinoco. In 1848 Dr. Schomburgk
made a careful journey of investiga-
tion, and wrote a very extended and
valuable book on the country. This
book with its maps has come into ques-
tion frequently during the recent con-
troversy over the disputed territory.
Bordering the banks of the Orinoco
for many miles are the jungles and
A TROPICAL FOREST, VENEZUELA.
ALONG THE SPANISH MAIN 147
forests of South America, inhabited by
uncivilized and aboriginal Indians. Be-
yond the forests spread out the llanos
or grassy plains whereupon feed many
thousand cattle of South America, which
are herded by adventurous cow-boys.
To the south, midway between Boli-
var and the mouth of the river, are the
mining districts. The gold here dis-
covered has given rise to the contro-
versies between Great Britain and
Venezuela over the boundary question.
XXIV.
THE DISPUTED TERRITORY.
EVER since the time when South
America's wealth in gold was first
reported abroad by Columbus, Raleigh,
Vespucci, and others, more especially
since the story of Gonzales Ximenes de
Casada, the thirst for this precious
mineral has brought many seekers after
fortune into the wilds of South America.
Casada was an officer sent out by
the Viceroy of Peru, with other officers,
in charge of the expedition to search
for the El Dorado of the Orinoco. He
was a treacherous man of mean char-
acter. After engaging a few of the
party to mutiny with him, he stole away
from camp one night and with the
148
AMONG THE BAMBOOS, VENEZUELA.
THE DISPUTED TERRITORY 149
canoes and ammunition of the expedi-
tion floated down the Orinoco. Gain-
ing the coast after many months, he
made his way to Europe, where he re-
ported himself as having found the El
Dorado of which all the world was in
search. He reported that the city of
Manoah was literally built of gold,
which story caused a great fever of ex-
citement, not only among the general
population of Europe, but also in its
courts and among its noblemen.
Prior to the discovery of gold in Gui-
ana in 1880, all efforts to find it were
unsuccessful. In the i6th and i;th
centuries, when the wealth of the region
south of the Orinoco, in what is now
known to us as the Disputed Territory
was comparatively unknown and its
vast resources unexplored, there was
no occasion for any boundary disputes.
We hear of gold mining along the
Essequibo and its tributaries a hundred
years ago by the Dutch, but it amounted
150 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
to little. In 1856 a deposit was dis-
covered which caused several companies
to explore ; they also were unsuccessful
and the search was abandoned. Then
nothing of importance was done until
1880, when a party of French laborers
from French Guiana found rich de-
posits in the sands of the Puruni River,
a branch of the Essequibo. This caused
a rush from all parts of the world, and
people from California, Capetown, and
the continent of Europe swarmed into
the territory.
From that time until the present, new
discoveries have been constantly made,
and some of the resources of the coun-
try brought to view, so that the question
whether this territory belongs to Vene-
zuela or Great Britain is now of serious
moment. A country which can export,
as the duties show, from the city of
Bolivar alone, thirty-nine million dol-
lars' worth of gold in a few years is
truly of no little importance.
THE DISPUTED TERRITORY 151
There are many American and Eng-
lish people, as well as other foreigners,
living in the mining district, although
the negroes do most of the hard labor
in the mines, being best suited to en-
dure the fevers of the district and the
labor necessary in the severe work of
mining.
The colonial authorities of the Brit-
ish Government have quietly occupied
this territory and have been encour-
aged.
Great Britain usually has a gunboat
floating on the lower Orinoco. Whether
the river itself belongs to Great Britain
or Venezuela does not seem to have been
questioned, as it appears that Great
Britain rather acknowledged Venezuela
in this respect by requesting her, some
years ago, through the British minister
at Caracas, to build a lighthouse on one
of the islands.
The controversy grew out of condi-
tions that arose in 1691 when a treaty
152 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
was signed between Spain and Holland
stipulating that the Orinoco colonies
should belong to the Spanish and the
Essequibo colonies to the Dutch. This
territory was practically unknown at the
time. In 1814 Holland ceded to Eng-
land that part of Guiana now called
British Guiana.
The question hinges greatly upon
the settlement between these two nations
of what properly belonged in those early
times to Holland and what to Spain.
Venezuela now claims the sovereignty
over a territory of 36,000 square miles
which Great Britain considers as belong-
ing to her colony of Guiana.
Through the medium of the Monroe
Doctrine the controversy over the Dis-
puted Territory has been brought into
prominence throughout the United
States. It is a question of vital im-
portance, not only between the contend-
ing powers, Venezuela and Great Britain,
but between England and the great re-
THE DISPUTED TERRITORY 153
public of America. The United States,
like its emblem the eagle, which extends
its broad wings to protect its young from
harm or disturbance, has taken the posi-
tion of affording its protection to all the
younger countries of the American con-
tinent.
XXV.
DREAMS OF THE FUTURE.
A MID the charms of a moonlight
**• night, let us imagine ourselves
seated on deck, quietly floating down
the Orinoco. The rays of the moon
reflected on the waters turn them into
a stream of pure silver. The deep
forests on either side respond with
gentle sighs to the caressing of the even-
ing winds. Were it not for the splash-
ing of an alligator as he falls heavily
into the water, or the weird cry of a
strange bird in his upward flight, the
quiet of the scene would be undisturbed.
It must have been on such a night as
this, that Ursua and his generous love
Inez met their untimely and tragic death
DREAMS OF THE FUTURE 155
while floating amid love's caresses on
this same river. With our thoughts thus
given to the adventurous past, we yet
speculate on the destiny of this beautiful
land. As the smoke from my pipe curls
itself into wreaths, scenes from the past
and dreams of the future float before my
mind. I see armed men, covered with
steel, following a bold, handsome leader,
a Spanish knight. Perchance it might
be Ojeda, flourishing in the kind graces
of Queen Isabel.
Alas ! this expedition, like so many
others eager in the quest of the riches
of El Dorado, cared nought for the
prayers and offerings of the innocent
Indians, who greeted the strangers with
respect, thinking them gods from the
blue sky above. The minds of the
invaders being accustomed to the
cruelties of war, they return such treat-
ment on the part of the Indians with
butchery and crime.
The fever of adventure having taken
156 VENEZUELA AND WEST INDIES
possession of the Continent, many
knights and adventurers seek the south-
ern land. A century has not elapsed
before the banner bearing the arms of
Castile and Aragon proudly floats over
the land in many places.
I see enacted before me the settle-
ment of the country with circumstances
of direst cruelty, and as the scene be-
fore me alters it is but a transition from
crime to crime. After the fighting
against these innocent Indians rose the
bitter struggles and contest of the Span-
ish colonists against their unprincipled
and tyrannical rulers.
It would seem that the upheaving of
the mighty mountains was only to show
their sympathy for the colonists. The
very groaning of the great Andes is
echoed by the colonists under these op-
pressions, and, like the mountains them-
selves, tired of the tyrannical choking,
they show forth their nature by a series
of uprisings in the form of revolutions.
DREAMS OF THE FUTURE 157
Some years afterwards the cool air
of the Andes moderates the fever and
excitement ; but it is not until the germ
of a republic has been planted. I see
this germ growing into a mighty tree of
state, the roots of which have fastened
into a pure and honorable soil. This
tree of state will in time cast a shade of
protection and peace over its people.
This mighty tree, called Venezuela,
embedded in a soil of peace and pros-
perity, is one of a grove of similar
South American republics still being
nourished in their youth. In time the
roots of these trees will become grown
together and intertwined, giving forth
nourishment and strength to each other
and producing the rich fruits of peace,
happiness, civilization, and progress.
THE END.
3 1158 01132 4752
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