Full text of "A woman's winter in Africa, a 26,000 mile journey"

See other formats

▼

$4*

A WOMAN'S WINTER
IN AFRICA

WOMAN'S WINTER
IN AFRICA

A 26,000 MILE JOURNEY

CHARLOTTE CAMERON

AUTHOR OF
MARRAQUITTA OF MONTE CARLO," "a PASSION IN MOROCCO'

"a woman's winter in south America'
" a durbar bride"

LONDON

STANLEY PAUL 6- CO.

31 ESSEX STREET, STRAND, W.C.

First published in 1Q13

TO MY GERMAN FRIENDS

I THANK you for your kindness friends,
Your ready smiles — your gladdening hands
That cheered a travelling woman's way
Through spaces of your lonely lands.

Know this — although I meet again
And breathe an English summer's blue,
My English heart is shaking hands
With the dear German hearts of you. — C. C.

A FOREWORD

[" F in the pages of this book I have been tempted to praise
-*- foreign ships and methods more than is conducive to insular
complacency to English ideas, the feeling of justice — which is
inherent in the English race — and my conscientiousness in
endeavouring to place true facts before the public compel me to
give honour to whom honour is due. f wish to add that this
book is in no way historical, statistical, or political — simply the
impressions of a woman traveller.

CHARLOTTE CAMERON.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

I. Looping the Loop in Africa .

PAGE

II.

The "Start'' .

III.

Christmas Day in Lisbon

IV.

Tangier . • •

Marseilles . • •

VI.

Naples . • • •

VII.

Vignettes of Pompeii . .

VIII.

Port Said . . • •

IX.

Down the East Coast .

Tanga

Dar-es-Salaam

XII.

Zanzibar .

XIII.

Portuguese Nyasaland — Pemba Bay and Port

Amelie .

XIV.

Mozambique .

XV.

Beira . . . ■ •

XVI.

Beira— Train Journey to Victoria Falls

106

XVII.

Victoria Falls . • • •

117

XVIII.

Zambesi and Rain Forest

123

XIX.

Bulawayo ...

128

XX.

Salisbury ...

139

XXI.

Lourenco Marques

143

XXII.

Durban ...

147

XXIII.

East London .

162

XXIV.

Port Elizabeth . • ■

. 167

XXV.

Captain Fielder and the s s. "General"

• 173

XXVI.

Cape Town .

. 176

XXVII.

Motoring Around Table Mountain

. 182
I I

Content

CHAPTER

PAGK

XXVIII.

Robben Island

. 186

XXIX.

LUNCH ON THE " TABORA :' .

202

XXX.

Rhodes Memorial .

. 205

XXXI.

West Coast and Port Nolloth

210

XXXII.

LlJKDERlTZBUCHT

. 215

XXXIII.

Coi.MANSKor Diamond Fields

■ 223

XXXIV.

Arrival at Swakopmund

■ 231

XXXV.

Walfish Bay

• 233

XXXVI.

En Route to Windhuk

• 245

XXXVII.

Windhuk (The Mount of Wind),

SO CALLED

by the Natives .

2 C2

XXXVIII.

Swakopmund

. 267

XXXIX.

"Steiermark" : Life on a Cargo-f.o.

\T . . 272

XL.

The Captain and I Pay Visits

278

XLI.

Libreville, French Congo .

. 286

XLII.

The Cameroons

• 3°°

XLIII.

DUALA

• 3°6

XLIV.

Kribi

■ 323

XLV.

A Call on an English Ship

• 336

XLVI.

Lagos

. 342

XLVII.

Lagos

■ 356

XLVI 1 1.

Lome, Togoland

• 362

XLIX.

Accra

. . 367

Seccondee .

• 37o

LI.

Grand Bassam— Ivory Coast

• 375

LII.

Liberia

• • 378

LIII.

Freetown, Sierra Leone

• • 383

LIV.

Conakry, French Guinea

• • 389

LV.

The Island

• 395

LVI.

Homeward .

. 400

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Map of Africa

Mrs. Cameron's Ticket Around Africa

Southampton Docks .

S.S. Adolpli Woermann

A Famous Square, Lisbon

A Mango Tree

Tangier from the Hill

Native Woman Weaving- Cloth

S.S. Adolpli Woermann going across the

The Port, Naples

A Tropical Forest Scene

Favourite Horse of Sheikh Abdel el-Bas

The Garden of the "Sit," Fayum

A Princess of the Bedouins, Fayum

Some of the Sheikh's Houses, Fgypt

Pigeon Houses, Fayum

Distant View of Aden

A Country Scene

Ancient Portuguese Gateway, Mombasa

Lion Attacking Zebra

Snake at Home

Hospital, Tanga

Grand Hotel, Tanga .

A Tanga Beauty

General View of Dar-es-Salaam

Street in Dar-es-Salaam

Secretary of State's Visit to Dar-es-Sal

Mrs. Henry with " Darsallar" the Mon

Catholic Church, Dares-Salaam

Street Scene in Native Town

A Monster Silk Cotton Tree

Pemba Bay and Port Amelie

Ivory Dealers, Port Amelie

Main Street, Port Amelie

Native Life .

Springbok Resting

Native Homes

Fronti

Bar at L

sel, Fayu

i.i

am
ey

sbon in

Slorm

"piece

PAGE

21
23
24
26
29

31
32
34
39
42
43
44
46
48

5°
53
56
57
59
61
62
64

67
68

69
73

74
77
79
81

84
87
91
93
97

List of Illustrations

A Large Family at Beira

A Group of Natives .

S.S. Eleonore Woermann

View of Country Life

Victoria Falls Station

Victoria Falls

The " Boiling- Pot " .

View of Bridge and Valley

Victoria Falls Hotel .

Gardens, Victoria Falls Hotel .

Karmi Ruins, near Bulawayo .

Cecil Rhodes' Grave .

Rhodes' Grave

Maxim Monument

Native Life .

Rickshaw Boys

Rickshaw Boys at Durban

Gathering Cocoanuts

Durban Beach

Mariannhill. Trappist Monks .

Dining-room of the Trappists .

An Ostrich Farm

Residential Quarter .

In Memory of the Animals which Perish

West African Negroes Tilling a Field

Cape Town from the Distance .

Cape Town with Lion Mountain

Sea Point

A View from the Mount Nelson Hotel

Stoep of Groote Schuur

Inside Leper Chapel .

Robben Island Settlement

Main Street, Robben Island

Church for the Sufferers

Native Woman Carrying Twins

Swimming Bath, s.s. Tabora

H. E. Frau Schnee, Captain Doherr, and

Cecil Rhodes' Residence

Rhodes Memorial. Watts' Statue " Phj

Hereros, German SouthAVest Africa

Missionary Station, Liiederitzbucht

Liiederitzbucht

Liiederitzbucht Shops

Liiederitzbucht

The Cathedral, and Mr. Henning's Hon

Principal Street, Liiederitzbucht

ed in the

Boer Wa

Mrs. We

Ent

inligf

rgy

PAGE

99
103

io5
"3
116

119
120
122
124

125
126

129

131

i33

i34

'4'

145
148

LSI
153
LS6
159
165
167

'7i
175
176

178
180
183
•85
187
i9[

'93
195
'97
202
203
205
208
213

2I5
217

218

219

220

221

List of Illustrations

Our Carriage for Colmanskop .

At the Diamond Mines

The Mayor, Herr Kreplin ; and II. M. Consul, Mi

Diamond-washing Machines

Kaiserhof Hotel

Footprints on the "Sands of Time," Walfish Baj

The Resident's House with British Flag

Resident's House and Hottentot Church

An Aged Hottentot, .

The Church of the drunken Hottentots

Walfish Bay Landing Pier

Gambling Hottentots

Street Scene, Windhuk

Usakos

Karibib

Railway Station, Windhuk

Windhuk .

Ovambos

Windhuk

Memorial to the Herero War .

Windhuk

Travel in German South-West Africa

Travel in Ovamboland

Bushmen's Paintings on Mountain near Windhuk

Memorial for those who fell in the Hereto War

Swakopmund

Kaiserhof Hotel

Lighthouse, Swakopmund

Street Scene, Swakopmund

Principal Street, Swakopmund .

Shops, Swakopmund .

Sieiermark

Danish Cargo-boat

Mahogany Logs, Gaboon River

Gaboon River

Ovambo Woman and Children

A Typical West African Market

Market and Principal Street, Libreville

Washing Clothes at Lagos, Nigeria

Springbok Jumping .

Pontocks of the Hottentots

Scene at Duala, Cameroons

Natives Embarking at Duala .

Ju-jus in the Making, Cameroons

Villa at Victoria

Traders' Establishment, Duala

Mull

PAGE
2 2,3

224
227

22<)

23 >

233
235
237
239

240
242

243

246

248

249

252

253
255

257

25*
259
263

264
265
266
267
268
26S
269
270

271

272

2 73

275
278

28 [

285
289

295
297
299
3° 1
3°3

3°5

306

308

List of Illustrations

Landing Pier, Duala .

Cameroon River

Manga Bell's Palace, Duala .

Natives Assembled to Welcome Ex-King Bell on his I

Germany
Catholic Church, Duala
Point and Part of Residential Quarter, D

Surf and Lighthouse at Kribi

and Tennis Club

King' Bell's Triumphant Progress throng

panied by his favourite Ju-jus
Kribi from the Sea
Cannibal Rubber Carriers
Plantation

Process of Making a Ju-ju
Monument to Major Dominik, Kribi
Cemetery at Duala
Market, Duala
The Marina, Lagos .
Life on the Lagos River
Government House from the Race-track
Government Offices, Lagos
A Nigerian Chief with his retinue
A Part of the Native Town, Lagos
Flagstaff, Government House
A Ju-ju Market, Southern Nigeria
The Life-boat, Lagos
Lome, Togoland
Natives
Seccondee
Cape Coast Castle
A Native Chief
Freetown, Sierra Leone
Freetown

Main Street, Freetown
Conakry Beach and Lighthouse
Principal Thoroughfare, Conakry
Conakry

Ox-sleigh, Madeira
The Authoress and Flowers sent by Captain Schiitt
Mrs. Charlotte Cameron
Political Map of Africa

uala

h the Streets of D

uala accom

el urn

PAGE

3°9
3"
3^3

3'5
3,6

3'7
319

32 1
313
327
329
33 '
333
335
336
34 2
345
347
350
35'
353
356

359
361

369

371

J/ J

38i

383

385

387

39°

39 '

393

397

399
401

At end

A WOMAN'S WINTER
* * * IN AFRICA * * *

C 1 1 A P T E R I

Looping tJic Loop in Africa

WHERE are we going this winter? ' jauntily asks the
" Imp of Travel" as it perches itself on my shoulder,
peering over a writing-desk untidily heaped with MSS., cards of
invitation, implying social, literary, and political events, and in-
numerable unanswered letters which I am endeavouring to get
through.

" ' Imp,' we cannot go this year. I have not finished my
work. There's a novel only half completed, besides, my article
on the Eayum, and you know how I like to organize whatever I
set out to do," I answered wearily. But the suggestion by the
Spirit of Travel who was born with me, and has been my constant
companion ever since, reawakens old memories. The winter is
approaching, outside the gardener is planting hundreds of bulbs
in my Hampstead garden ; before long their lovely faces will be
kissed by soft spring breezes ; if I remain in London all the
winter my work will be finished and my friends delighted not to
lose my comradeship.

I whisper to this inspiring " Imp " : ' The weather has been
so fine it's not necessary for my health."

It is not content, and the gargoyle face (as 1 always picture
the sprite) falls into non-pleasing wrinkles.

" You attended the Durbar at Delhi last year, you passed the
remainder of the season on the Nile, and said you enjoyed your-
self. The winter before I took you on a 23,000-mile voyage,

B 17

A Woman's Winter in Africa

and the result was that you were the first woman to write a book
on the entire coast of South America, including the Transandean
Railway and the Panama Canal. You would not have accom-
plished fall this if you had wasted time on your social friends.

Litt. C. -J

r RETURI

"/W*^^4^^»«^^t^' «-^rt \\?i£

Sl*3&

4 $«b£

/•&v5 ersten Kfasse mit dem B. P. D.

fl^fost c/uss of Uia J. A/. S.

d vtejerfialb /2 litbnate nach Antritt dry Reis

d loitmn /*' months ufl^r stantft/j ouai from

4J . via .JjJILaC -£<r

it *-£&jtfsrJieii Ost-Afrika-fsinie,

of //tes£

I (V<^vSv>/2<<f//p Aifaftrt von

J;..". -**$■«# ij<J'' oj Oepartjtre from

'% *

<zn\

den. Z..M

yvwvi f-O**- ^^fr~+*^-C- t*T*nd~ \.o-u/vti-eJ,^

HrB.A.l.. ^..j,. o lt*1

KET.

">-

' /' 3W2^.

y^<

vruJ .*&— fur the pawaQO

<~B~

ffaupt-
mit einem Dmnpfer dw **{<?*'* LtntA

by a steams? of the Sftwmfoil- 4*m-

MRS. CAMERON S TICKET AROUND AFRICA.

Black centre lines denote where it was pasted together, as at the
end of the trip the ticket was quite worn out.

Besides, you would never have accumulated those emit is for
which your house is famous if I had not helped you."

' Imp " casts a sorrowful look and vanishes. 1 go on with my
writing. Time flics. I must close. The car is at the door, and

1 8

I ,ooping the Loop in Africa

my promise lias been given to appear at two receptions this after-
noon, besides dining out and going to a theatre. Lying back as I
speed along, visions of resl , calm or angry seas, strange poi ts, new
people, adventure appear like Wm'y clouds and presenl enticing
pictures.

I soliloquize. Londoners are always the same. To-day it
will be the same houses, the same sets, and practically the same
conversations. The " Imp " has returned, he is threatening now.

" Suppose your old lover bronchitis appears and sits upon
your chest , refusing to leave you, vampire that he is. You have
escaped him thus far, I realize, but he will probably be here just
as soon as the fogs set in, which will be any day now. Then you
will be forced to escape him, and maybe he would only allow you
to go to the Riviera, and you don't care much for that. You have
often been there.

" I'll tell you," confides " Imp." " You and I will take a long
sea voyage. We will loop the loop around Africa. You will be
in the sunshine all the time, and I'll be with you to point out
things. Perhaps you will write a book, and let the ' stay-at-
homes ' see the lovely places through your eyes ; or, better still,
you may do some good by letting other people know of delightful
voyages along pleasant shores."

Some two weeks pass ; ' Imp " has been victorious. My
passage has been taken for the entire coast of Africa from South-
ampton back to Southampton, via East Coast, West Coast, with
a peep at the Victoria Falls and a visit to many places in Rhodesia
I sail December 19th on the Adolph Woermann, Deutsche Ost
Atrika Linie.

My passage money, covering a six months' voyage on as many
ships as may be necessary, has amounted to /Too 5s , which, con-
sidering the thousands of miles over which they have guaranteed
to take me, cannot be considered excessive.

CH APTE R I I
The Start

A WEEK before the date of my proposed voyage I attended
a dinner-party. It was a cold, damp night, and when I
awoke next morning my detested and persistent lover held me in
a firm grip. Bronchitis, thinking he was to be cheated of his
annual prey, refused to be pushed aside, withstanding all my
clever doctor's efforts.

Then the good news came. The Adolpli Woermann had been
delayed in Hamburg and would not sail for two days. What a
relief ! Perhaps by that time my hated lover would relent and
permit me to go.

Even " Imp " was sympathetic, and said, " Poor you ! But
chser up. If you fight well, and we can once sail into the fresh
sea air, Bronkie can't follow, and you will be all right."

The actual day for departure arrived, and in a very weakened
state I left my room. ' Imp " took possession of me, and really
had " It " not encouraged and pushed me on, so to speak, I don't
know whether I should ever have arrived at Waterloo.

At last I found myself speeding towards Southampton. It
was wearisome to an invalid, but my one prevailing thought was :
' Be brave until you board the ship." I would not let myself dwell
upon how I felt ! ' Imp " whispers, " Quite right."

Arriving at Southampton, I was told that the ship was expected
about four, and we were to be ready by that time for the tender.
A handful of passengers assembled and sat in the small stuffy
saloon for four hours always hoping for news of our missing
Adolpli. Of course, there was much speculation as to what had
become of the ship. People got restive ; there was no tea.
Nothing available but patience. In my weak state I felt that I
was beginning to start on a longer journey — that from which no
traveller has ever yet returned. If one could only go to heaven'
and come back with a graphic and perfect description of that
unknown world, how publishers would crowd around one !

The Start

Everything ends in time, and shortly after 9 p.m. we were
floating down beautiful Southampton Water, which looked like a
road paved with silver horseshoes. The lights of t lie town dimmed
and blinked behind us, and each eye on deck was strained
Channelwards, trying to discern amongst the distant trembling
stars dancing mysteriously upon the water which was our belated
errant Adolf)!;. But he had not forsaken us — although late he
kept his appointment. A ship is usually spoken of in the feminine
gender, if seems a little awkward "She" and " Adolph ! '

SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS.

There must have bee a a mistake at his christening. However, at
last, when we actually crept into the heart of Adolph, we found a
beautifully clean, comfortable ship. It was brilliantly lighted,
everything cosy and warm. On deck the band was playing a
cheerful welcome. I gave a hurried glance round and quickly
sought my cabin, leaving " Imp " to investigate and obtain news
" It " returned, quite satisfied with the general arrangements, and
I closed my eyes exhausted.

The next morning at eight I awoke to the strains of soft music
playing a few bars of a German hymn. ' Imp" declared it* a
pretty idea, and I agreed. On Sunday morning the notes of

A Woman's Winter in Africa

' Nearer, my God, to Thee ' floated through the alleys. My
thoughts flew to the terrible catastrophe of the Titanic. Fortun-
ately for us, the situation was entirely different, and the hymn
breathed only peace and happiness. Already I feel much better,
having left the bronchitis friend behind. ' Imp " uses the old
familiar " I told you so." The sea is beautifully calm, and warm
sunshine floods the decks. The ship and cabins are all that anyone
could desire, the food abundant and excellent. I have met four
charming English people, and we have a small table together.
The Germans sit at the large centre table, presided over by genial
Captain Iversen, who is already beloved by us all. His never-
failing kindness and his anxiety for the comfort of his passengers
could not fail to be appreciated.

On Christmas Eve there was the ever-popular tree, glistening with
coloured candles and pretty things ; carols were sung, there was
a dinner of traditional menu ; and the band gave us a splendid
concert in the evening. As an example of how small the world is,
two of my new English friends, Mr. and Mrs. Wexelsen, knew
both coasts of Africa by heart. Several times they have gone over
the route which I have chosen to travel. They have very kindly
given me much valuable information. I feel quite terrified as they
paint the discomforts of the West Coast. They tell me that the
ships will be small, unclean, slow ; that in many places there
is no hotel accommodation whatever, and on several occasions
they have been obliged to sleep in trucks. Altogether their
description is disenchantingly graphic. This naturally is rather
appalling, and makes me apprehensive of my fate. ' Imp," how-
ever, who is always listening, declares with stubborn voice : " You're
not to borrow troubles. You haven't got there yet, and you had
better enjoy yourself now and leave the future to take care of itself."

Mr. and Mrs. Wexelsen left us at Tangier and afterwards made
an extended tour of the entire coasts of Africa. They were the
first to show cinematograph performances in the African continent,
and they brought the first electric light apparatus to Salisbury,
Beira, and Umtali.

The Woermann Line is unique" in the history of shipping, inas-
much as the ships are named after members of the Woermann
family. I believe it is the only line in the world which follows this
sensible and pretty custom.

Carl Woermann was its founder. He migrated from Bielefeld to

The Start

Hamburg, and in [847 slatted with sailing ships ; two years lab r
establishing a cargo trade on the Wes1 Coasl of Africa.

the greal pioneer

Miss Mary

Kingsley

women travellers,
t he far-away rivers

mentions several of the Woermann factories up

of that coast.

It was in 1887

that the lust

steamer was

added to the

Hue.

Carl , lli e
founder, died,
and was suc-
ceeded by lus
son Adolph,
whom Bis-
marck called
" A Pi ince of
Merchants." A
splendidly ex-
ecuted bronze
bust of Adolph
Woermann a-
dorns the
smoking-room
of this ship. It
might have
been said of
him that he
ruled wisely
and well ; un-
fortunately Ik-
died in May,
1 () 1 1 . His

wife, Gertrude Woermann, has given in memory of her husband
their town mansion at Hamburg as a Club for Captains' recreation,
and generously endowed it for future maintenance. The present
heads of the Firm are Mr. Edward Woermann, Mr. Ritter, and Mr.
Arnold Amsinck, an amalgamation having taken place of the
Woermann Line with the Deutsche Ost Afrika Linie.

S.S. ADOLI'H WOERMANN.

Mrs. Cameron, Capt. Iversen, and Mrs. Henry.

C H A P TER III

( liristmas Day in Lisbon

MY first view as I looked out of the port was of the forbidding
sides of three warships whose blatant red and green flags
with the ensign of the Republic recalled the ever-lamentable
tragedy of Black Horse Square, when King Carlos and the Crown

Prince gave up their
lives to an ungrateful
country- — a country
which even after the
great sacrifice still
throbs to the tune
of revolution.

Being a holiday all
business places were
closed, and it was
amusing to see flocks
of turkeys driven
along the streets,
guarded by peasants,
who wore knitted
pull-down caps from
which dangled huge
woollen tassels.

They were carrying
their wares and has-
tening to the market-
place. Obviously the
Portuguese keep
Christmas night for
their feasting. The turkeys, either from their long walk or con-
scious of their doom, looked thin and miserable.

Another curious street scene, and this in the celebrated and
most fashionable Avenida de Libertade, were two well-fed cows

fWEA

A FAMOUS SQUARE, LISBON.

Christmas I )av in I ,isbon

warmly wrapped up in blankets being milked standing before a
mansion. A short distance behind waited a sofMurred black and

white calf of a lew months old, over his nose being tied a deep
tin cup, in older to prevent his claiming his birthright, viz. the
mother's nourishment. The Avenida, the beauty street of Lisbon,
basked in sunshine, the atmosphere of our June days, and one
fell to wondering what the weather was like at home.

Imp " thought we should go to a Bull Fight, as the placards
announced an especially grand one ; but I immediately forbade
' Imp " even to think of it. 1 saw one once at Monte Video, and
never wish to witness another. There being nothing to be seen in
the Rua Aurea, famous for its shops, I took a taxi, which con-
veyances at Lisbon are exceptionally clean and up-to-date, and
went to admire once again the Cloisters of the Convents dos
Jeronimoz at Belim. The beautiful lacelike carvings, and impres-
sive example of baroque Gothic, are reminkesnt of the chapel
at Monreale. In this church is the magnificent tomb of Vasco da
Gama, the discoverer of the Indies.

Returning by the Palace and through the principal streets, I
drove to the Restaurant Tavares, where the food is excellent and
the prices reasonable. As the ship stayed only six hours it was
now time to seek the Quay. Sailing down the Tagus, Lisbon
stretched out in the sunshine on its low hills, with the dark granite
Cintra Mountains as a background, making a splendid picture.

Among our new passengers was a gentleman, a keen Royalist,
who held a prominent place in the political and social world
at Lisbon. He confided to me the following. An official of the
Government came to him about a month previously and said :
" Do von not find it very warm here ? ' My friend, astonished,
replied, " Warm ! Why ? ' The official remarked, ' Oh, 1
thought you might be taking a trip abroad ? ' My friend was
naturally perturbed, and a little nonplussed — worried also, for he
had a beloved wife and two small children. A friend of his had
been warned in much the same manner — and had defied the
official, announcing that he had no intention of leaving his country.
A few weeks after, as he was about to enter his house, he was
surrounded by five men and brutally shot. If yen are a Royalist
at the present time in Portugal you are liable to arrest, and with
slight proof you are condemned to six years' solitary confinement
at a prison in Lisbon. Should you survive this adamantine

A Woman's Winter in Africa

sentence you are transported to the penal settlement of Portuguese
East Africa, to undergo a further nine years of misery. My friend
informs me that one charming and charitable Countess had this
judgment passed upon her. A short time elapsed, and the same
official appeared again and interviewed my friend, with practically

the same suggestions.

,^v

A m \m;o tree.

He, bearing in mind the fate which had

been dealt out to the other man, arranged his affairs as best he
could and exiled himself from his native land. He hopes even-
tually to establish a cotton plantation in British East Africa,
send for his family, and reconstruct a home under the English
flat

l8-

He tells me that three-quarters of the Portuguese nation are
Royalists at heart, but dread fear suppresses their enthusiasm.

C 1 1 A P T E R 1 V
Tangier

THE gangway is affixed to its proper place, the turbulent
water laps the sides of the ship, and we in the agent's boat,
with its yellow flag, are rapidly lengthening the distance between
us and the ship.

Tangier has a cadmium-coloured sun, which is about to go to
rest behind her hills ; and as the last rays touch the congested
native town they light up the prismatically coloured houses and
windows, reminding one of a lire opal.

Politically speaking, this town, which was part of the dowry of
Catharine of Braganza to Charles the Second, leaves much to be
desired in the way of cleanliness, civilization, and safety.

That its true Orientalism is fascinating everyone knows, for
not even in Baghdad will one find a more heterogeneous mixture.
Boys in rags, old hags with vile wrinkled faces, handsome Moors
riding magnificent horses, donkeys heavily laden and covered
with sores which their drivers delight to probe and whack, men
with red turbans and white burnouses, and veiled women re-
sembling bundles of wool fill the streets, to the dismay of the
traveller, who feels he has been reincarnated into a strange world
of colour, dirt, and wonderment.

Overhead the sky is pure azure. No cloud mitigated the
clearness which lit up the vividly coloured buildings. Sometimes
one caught glimpses of shady courtyards and arabesque-carved
arches, through which the ripe oranges gleamed against dark
leaves, and tall palms threw restful shade, infinitely preferable
to the noisy main thoroughfare, where howling voices besought
one to buy beads, swords, burnouses, haiks, embroidery, leather
pockets, and so forth.

The horrible prison I visited. Even " Imp," who is ewer with
me, acknowledged the place was decidedly " smelly." Here
humanity reeks in tilth, and through holes in the wall the miserable
prisoners push their outstretched palms begging for money or food.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

The guide gave them some small coins, and we were glad to
turn towards something more pleasant. The Government of
Morocco do not feed their prisoners ; therefore, if they have no
friends to assist them, they starve. Another cruel scene which

Imp" and I witnessed was this: As we were walking down
to the Quay I noted a dark object suspended in the air, which I
took to be a dead cow. I paused to watch, and found that from a
boat below they were unloading live cattle. It was most appalling,
the maimer and useless intense cruelty with which it was done.
Ropes were slung around the horns of three of the cattle at a
time ; then a derrick or crane slowly lifted them, poising the
burden several minutes in the air, then letting them down with a
bump. The cattle were stupefied with the pain they endured,
and quite a long period elapsed before they regained a footing.
This practice of raising cattle used to be carried on in South
America, but now the authorities forbid it, as often the horns
were pulled out by their bleeding roots from the head, which
damaged the value of the beast. Now they are landed quite
comfortably by a thick, wide band which passes under the body.
It would seem that the Barbary States still live up to their
reputation.

}

iflStJ

CHAPTER V
Marseilles

WE arrive early in the morning of the 29th, and do not
leave until three o'clock in the afternoon.

' You're to have a holiday," jocundly announces " Imp." Its
little ugly face appears a bit more wrinkled as in imagination I
see its grin. ' Yes," it continues, " everybody who has left the
nursery knows Marseilles by heart."

' The Charing Cross for ships," I suggest. " Now don't say
that," implored the " Imp," ' it's been harped upon for ages.
Whatever else you do, be original. Pretty soon you will be going
into exuberances about the lovely Corniche Drive ; the Restaurant
de la Reserve ; Chateau d'lf, the Count of Monte Cristo ; bouilla-
baisse, the famous dish of the Midi ; Notre Dame de la Garde, with
its silver hearts and left off crutches. I should not wonder if you
started to write about Thomas Cook and Son next — nothing can
stop yon when you are in the descriptive mood. Now come on.
1 am going to take you to lunch at the Louvre de la Paix, and
afterward^ we shall go to an old church hidden away in a back
street. There I will show yon a gargoyle which resembles me. I
inhabited it before my reincarnation."

' Imp " is arrogant and jubilant. We get into a cab and go
bounding over cobble-stones and tram-lines to the city. I had a
card to Mr. William Carr, one of the most popular and well-known
personalities of Marseilles. Rarely a ship enters the port in the
course of commerce but Mr. Carr acts the role of host to receive
and welcome. Then he is the last man to leave and to wave his
adieux from the Quay. Mr. Carr migrated to Marseilles some
forty years ago from Yorkshire (our big and bonny county). Not
only does he represent several Shipping Companies, but in his day
has been one of the Syndic of Commerce. On my return to the
ship Mr. Carr not only presented himself, but introduced to me
two genial friends of his, Mr. Bruce from Scotland and Mr. Percy
Marsden from Condon. The latter for years has been a celebrity

Marseilles

on the Stock Exchange, is not< <1 also as ;i clever financier, also for
his truly remarkable likeness to our beloved laic King, Edward
lie Peacemaker.

Ii is marvellous the comradeship of travel. In a few moments

we were talking as gaily as if we had known each other for years.
Mr. Marsden knew many of my friends in the metropolis. News
of the flotsam and jetsam of life was demanded, names recalled
which had passed into the shadows, and the successful flamboyanl
lives of Others were discussed. It always strikes me anew, the
fact that on board ship, owing to the continual presence of
people, in one week you know more of their temperament and
environment than in a big city with an acquaintanceship of
five years.

Marseilles is left
behind ; the grey
walls of the Chateau
d'lf loom in pic-
t uresque grandeur
against the sky that
is a symphony of
greys. We have
twenty-five new-
passengers, so to
night at dinner ther:
is much more life
and gaiety. Stewards
instead of stand-
ing by and watching
sixteen people masti-
cate their food, fly
about entirely busy
with their own
duties. " Imp " de-
clares : "It is good
that more English
have arrived," and
confesses, "it would
have been lonely for

me with only two <£^S«£

German ladies who native womam weaving cloth.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

don't speak my language." Alas ! I fear most of these people
are leaving the ship at Port Said for Egypt ; their clothes and
appearance suggest fashionable Assouan, Luxor, and Cairo. It is
most interesting to meet the new travellers, and to ask where they
are going, and their views on life and experiences. A representative
young English couple are going home to Khartoum. They give
us a graphic description of their life there ; and the early morning
rides over the desert sound most delightful.

Several are bound for Cairo solely on a pleasure expedition,
and have never before seen the fascination of the Sphinx and
Egyptian glories. I envy them their first view and impressions of

S.S. " ADOLI'H WOERMAXN GOING ACROSS THE ISAR AT LISBON IN STORM.

this wonderful country, the Eldorado of history and luxury. To
my mind there is no Winter resort which caters for all tastes as does
Egypt. I have passed some five or six winters there, and the
spell is still upon me. At dinner Mr. Marsden, who has just
left Monte Carlo, told the following story : A gentleman rushed
into the Casino and put the maximum on No. 18. It won ! When
his friend asked him why he did it, he explained, his hands still
full of notes, " Well, I intended to back the number of my private
cabin in crossing from Dover to Calais, but I forgot it. Then I
tried to remember the number of my railway carriage — in this I
also failed. Nevertheless, I recollected that I was sick three
times, so I thought, three sicks — 18 — that was why I backed it."

CHAPTER VI
Naples

NAPLES was clothed in blue-grey tissue which veiled Vesu-
vius like a prospective bride as the Adolph Woermann
steamed to the quay in the early morning.

Our immediate neighbour is the s.s. Taormina, an Italian
troop-ship just returned from Tripoli. There are something
like 1500 soldiers on board, who have seen a year's service at the
seat of war. They are a fine, sturdy, bronzed lot. Their lusty
cheers — in which one catches the name of Allah! Allah! -their gay
laughter and snatches of song portrav their unmitigated joy at
being restored to their native land, and the happy reunion with
their families a nearly accomplished fact. The troop-ship appear^
very crowded, for not only is the deck a concrete mass of men,
but all along the several lines, each port frames a smiling soldier's
face. The bright sails of feluccas flit past us in a maddening
haste to reach their destination.

Through the kindness of Mr. Bruce, a well-known shipowner
from Glasgow, Mr. Marsden and myself are invited to the office
cf Signor de Luca, who is not only the most representative ship-
broker in Naples, but gallantly takes on the duties of Consul-
General for Belgium as well. Here, as good friends of Mr. Bruce,
we were received with true Neapolitan hospitality. A luxurious
motor-car was placed at our disposal, and a drive to Pompeii was
suggested. While we were waiting for the arrival of the car — I
know very little of shipbrokers' offices —it afforded me great
interest to watch the continual meetings and exodus of captains
and shipmen.

Signor de Luca, with his unfailing geniality, gave a hearty
handshake, farewell, and God bless you, to tall and stalwart,
thin and lithe, short and thick-set men who follow the sea.

Now around his desk assembles a sort of court martial.

A young Belgian sailor refuses to return to his ship, alleging

that the officers have been cruel to him. The Captain, chief

c -> ~>

A Woman's Winter in Africa

officer, the Belgian Consul, and several others listen attentively
to the lad's wrongs. He is a stupid, fanatical-looking boy of
perhaps twenty years of age. In live minutes or so all is
amicably settled, and the Captain has promised to look after the
lad himself. The Consul nods approvingly ; the boy grins and
says he will go back to the ship. Exit all parties satisfied. " Adhuc
sub judice lis est."

We are soon seated in the motor, and whirling along the sea

■^■Kgl

THE PORT, NAl'I.K^.

road leading to Pompeii. ' Imp " is quite excited — its curiosity
is being satisfied, and it remarks : ' We are in for a good day,"
and winds up with, " Are you not glad you came ? '

The streets of Naples always inspire me with the greatest
interest ; I gaze first on one side, then on the other, endeavouring
not to miss a single item of the crowded thoroughfare teeming
with bewildering humanity. With thirsty inquisitiveness I stare
up at balconies, where mangy cats doze lazily in the sun, and an
enormous selection of undergarments flutter happily in the drying
breeze. Madame, gowned in bright pink cotton, appears holding
a white-swaddled bundle — it is the baby being given its matudinal
airing. Parrots shriek at each other, golden canaries warble
thanksgiving praise to the Orb of Day — all is vitality and struggle
tiii- existence. Now we are in the midst of markets. Large baskets

Naples

of wriggling eels -horrid-looking specimens arc shoved under our

noses. The crowd here is so thick we arc obliged to go very slow.
Huge white cauliflowers, many of which are shipped from Naples
to London, look in the distance like stiff Early Victorian bouquets
of white roses. Golden oranges and tangerines, crowned with their
own lustrous leaves, make pyramids of blazing colour.

But colour ! That is everywhere dominant, blatant — queen
of the dirty streets. Painted wagons — with no uniformity as to
the mating of the beasts that draw them, three harnessed
together — -one strong horse, a smaller one, and a mule in the
middle — are observed. The high decorative silvered tin ornaments
on the surcingle flash in the sunlight. Some of the dark-haired,
sallow-faced squatters in the vehicle regard us with mild envious-
ness as we rush past.

We now enter the regions of the macaroni industrv, where
huge factories and small peasant houses vie with each other in
stringing out countless yards of the long yellowish pieces which
are one of the staple foods of Italy, and have long been popular
with other nations as well.

Vesuvius is behaving most satisfactorily, and has done so for
some time, my friend informs me. As we look up at its :;ooo feet
of forbidding height seven tiny spiral columns of vapour rise and
gracefully proceed heavenward.

The railway, like a white ribbon, lies on the breast of the
quiescent monster, the cruel one, who for no reason buried innocent
and guilty together at Pompeii and Herculaneum some two
thousand years ago.

CHAPTER VII
Vignettes of Pompeii

AS I passed through the iron gates leading to the ancient ruin a
l\ feeling of sadness and reverence possessed me. The same spirit
spoke when I paid my first visit to the Residency at Lucknow.

In both places the noble trees and flowering shrubs which line
the approach and veil a great tragedy give the air of peace, and
the soft winds are eternally sighing a requiem for the dear dead — ■
those who in the midst of rejoicing were relentlessly struck down
with no time for prayers, even if they had wished to say them.

This fact is obvious, as is shown in the Museum here, where the
petrified bodies are preserved in the same attitude as Death found
them. Men and women fell face downward, some held a hand
before their eyes ; others rested on an elbow ; an interesting study
was the carcase of a dog which evidently died in intense agony,
being twisted double. One turns one's eyes to iron gratings and
rims of chariot wheels marvellously unchanged, despite the flight
of thousands of years. There are rows of blue-green opalescent
glass vases, bottles, and much more, which the burning lava or ash
has painted a most beautiful colour. The scarcity of old Roman
glass is much regretted by connoisseur collectors, as every year
its value increases.

Through the Museum we go and then walk on past pepper and
oleander trees, until we enter the main street of historical Pompeii
itself. Over the lava stone-paved way I notice well-worn ruts on
each side. These have been made by thousands of chariot wheels.
Alas ! where are the drivers of the picturesque conveyances now ?
Then there are the large steppirg-stones, which were placed in
such a position and height as not to interfere w it li the speed of the
chariots. We discover a drinking fountain of white marble, and < re
sees the iron spout from which the flowing water appeased the
thirst of the now voiceless throats. On the font is carved a
cornucopia, the horn of plenty, discharging imaginary water.
Near by stands an almost perfect figure of a beautiful woman in

\ ignettes oi I ^mpeii

Grecian draperies of marble. Her name is Eumachial, Public

Priestess.

Here is a triumphal arch to Nero, and one to Gallicola, made of
tli" thin, narrow red bricks which the Romans always used. These
are faced with white marble. We st roll into the Basilica of Justice,
and find a narrow hall about 250 feet long by 70 wide.
It is rootless, with its standing walls some 12 or 14 feel high.
Twenty-four broken columns, many of which are crowned by
marble Corinthian capitals, stand like sentries to guard the silent
hall.

We go down a few steps and enter the prison. In those days
criminals were not allowed in court, but anxiously waited here.
Three large round holes in the roof must have kept their attention
riveted, because from these apertures their doom was shouted down
to them. Can one picture the weary waiting of the prisoners and
their gladness or sorrow as a court official screamed out their
names, and So-and-so was either liberated or sent to death ? The
view from the Basilica is superb, backed by its amphitheatre of
blue-purple mountains and frowned over by mighty Vesuvius.
Sunshine and shadow play hide-and-seek through the empty
halls, and a moss -green carpet of velvet fineness covers the
floors.

It was in i/b4 that a country workman (a contadini), in trying
to sink a well, disturbed the protracted sleep of Pompeii by
violating the ashes in the Temple of dTside (or Isis).

We see the Stabia Gate, with arches intact, through which
many of the inhabitants fled in their terror, the Street of Fortune,
also the Triangle Forum.

The Temple of Mercury, with a white marble font on which is
depicted a priestess sacrificing a bull to the gods, proved inter-
esting ; there we found several fluted columns of the original
Pompeiian red. In the centre is the stone rostrum for public
speaking. One can fancy the voices of senators long since silenced
pouring forth their flowers of speech to the admiring audience. A
bust of Nero as a child was found here. It is inconceivable to
imagine Nero a child, and one wishes he had chosen to remain
a Peter Pan and never grown up.

Now the Bourse opens its arms to us. Mr. Marsden begins
bidding for shares in the exuberance of his spirits, much to the
amusement of all. Ye Saints ! do the dead hear ?

A Woman's Winter in Africa

In the Temple of Diana, through her lovely figure an ugly
metal tube protrudes. The Priestess, after consulting the oracle,
would through this speaking appliance state the wishes of the
goddess. The Official Public Scales, consisting of five round
receptacles in stone, spoke of the probity of the citizens ; as did
the four foot-high millstones, wherein corn was ground by the
slaves, show their industry.

Having visited the city, we now proceeded to the residential
quarter of the then " Smart Set." The house of the Bear, with
the open court, which was a feature of each dwelling, contained
some beautiful mosaics. The Vet-ti house, the largest yet un-
earthed at Pompeii, was remarkable for its really fine dining-room,
wherein a frieze portraying fish, lobster, wine-growing, fruit, and
other eatables still retained its pristine colouring. One must not
forget a commodious kitchen, which would not be despised even
in these days of luxury.

In bidding adieu to this silent ruin, pregnant with appalling
catastrophe, we pause to look at the Theatre of Hercules. It was
here that the greater part of the population sat watching the
gladiators fighting when Vesuvius cast forth her ashes in anger.
The promenade at the back of the theatre is quite intact, also the
circle of stone seats, graduated as to price and tier, as in our
present-day theatres — the boxes for the nobles, and so on down
the social scale.

In the small enclosure at the back of the stage sixty-three
bodies were found, probably those of the artists who took part
in their last performance. A little farther on a larger enclosure
proclaims that here the battle of wild beasts was fought.

Reverently I pass out of the quiet grass-grown City of the Dead,
while Omar Khayyam lines come to me : ' To-morrow ! I myself
may be with yesterday's seven thousand years."

It was a quarter to two, and being frail humanity who have
to look to fleshpots for existence — our party began to clamour for
luncheon. This we found opposite, the entrance gate at the Hotel
Suisse'. The lunch was excellent — the famous macaroni cooked
in true Neapolitan style, fresh fish of the trout family, and
several other dishes. For beverage we sampled Lachrima Christi (or
Tears of Christ) — a name that repulses me, but nearly everyone
drinks the wine here. The vineyards grow on the slopes of
Vesuvius, with its rich lava soil, and the grapes are eternally sun-

3^,S*K3ttj

A Woman's Winter in Africa

kissed, which imparts a flavour which has found much apprecia-
tion.

Our ship sailed at five ; therefore there was not much time to
investigate Naples, and as I had seen the sights on several other
visits 1 devoted the day to Pompeii. But for the benefit of other
travellers not knowing Naples, may I suggest a visit to the Museum,
also to the Aquarium, the finest in the world ; a drive to St.
Elmo and Baia?, the latter much beloved by the Romans as a
summer resort ; and many more interesting excursions of which
Baedeker will tell you? Signor de Luca and his charming son
Alberto were kind enough to see us off. There was some delay.
Darkness descended, and when we finally listened to the music of
the working screws, Naples — la Bella — was wearing along her
corsage a large necklace of diamonds, and on her dark head St.
Elmo had placed a tiara of scintillating gems.

C 1 1 A P T E R VIII
Port Said

PORT SAID loomed a dull red streak on the horizon as we
approached, the blinking de Lesseps lighthouse shortly after
g p.m. It reminded one of a belated houri about to retire, for
there seemed to be a sleepiness over the whole town -so different
in appearance from last year, when I was proceeding to the Durbar
at Delhi. Then the place was wreathed in paper roses and green
palm trees, while flaring arches blazoned forth warm welcoming
messages to their Majesties the King-Emperor and Queen-Empress,
who were due to arrive the next day on the Medina.

It was with a sad heart 1 bide farewell to my good friends.
About twenty-five of the passengers left the ship, and as far as I
could ascertain only two German ladies were to remain on board
until the Adolph Woermann reached its destination at Dar-el-
Salaam, a name derived from its Arab associations. These ladies,
however, do not speak either English or French, and as my German
is practically non est, the social life between us consists of a bow-
morning and night and various smiles in reconnoitring during the
day. Naturally I longed for some English ladies to join the ship
at Port Said. Even " Imp " acknowledged it would be desirable,
as, however kind the men were, chatting with one's own sex is
preferable sometimes.

I was leaning over the rail, a trifle depressed, watching the
constant bobbing up and down of the small fleet which gathers
around a newly arrived steamer, when I heard a familiar Arab
voice shouting an order to his men. In a few seconds I recognized
Abdel Sattar el-Bassel, Sheikh of the Fayum, ascending the
gangway. Now I must go back about six years, to the time when
I first met the Sheikh and his charming wife Malaka in Cairo.
Th y had been married about a year at the time. I had wanted
to meet a high-class Egyptian woman at home, and through the
friendship of a Pacha I was introduced to the Sheikh, who in his
turn invited me to visit his wife. Upon arrival there with the

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Sheikh, who is cultured and refined, and has the principles of an
Englishman- -as he is very much against plurality in wives — I
was astonished to find a handsome woman of twenty, with large
vivacious brown eyes and dazzling teeth, her complexion of the

palest cafe- au-lait,
with clove carnation
colour subtly rubbed
into her cheeks.

The tea was served
in English style, and
my distinguished
hostess, who speaks
English, French,
Arabic, Turkish, and
Bedouin perfectly,
commenced a con-
versation which
touched upon all the
current news of the
day, literature and

r_ MEmt politics, and wound

up with a discussion
upon the philosophy
of Herbert Spencer.
I had to dig deep
into the wells of my
brain to resurrect
memories which had
long since slumbered.
Thus began a delight-
fid acquaintance, of
especial interest to
me, which has lasted,
and 1 hope may
continue.
I may mention that Madame el-Bassel is the only Egyptian
woman who has lectured to an audience of five hundred women in
Cairo, with the object of impressing upon the minds of the poor
the beneficial principle of hygienic methods in their homes,
and teaching them to bring up their children well, instilling in

FAVOURITE HORSE OF SHEIKH AliDEL
EL-BASSEL. FAYUM.

Port Said

them the love of cleanliness and work. I was so agreeably sut
prised with my rirsl insigh.1 into Egyptian family life, after all the
harem stories I had heard, thai I wrote an article on my impre
sions, which appeared in English, and was copied into the French
and Arabic journals in Cairo.

When the season was over and I returned to London our lett< i
were of mutual interest, and last year, when 1 passed through
Cairo after the Durbar ceremonies, 1 paid a visit of four and a
half days to my friends on their huge estate in the rich
oasis of the Fayum. The Sheikh has a light railway laid
over his domain for the use of himself and friends, and to carry
the harvests from the
different farms. Much
cotton is grown here, and
the family have also large
tracts of land in the
Soudan, and are experi-
menting there in cotton
growing.

Truly, I never experi-
enced a pleasanter visit,
where, from the Sheikh
and the " Sit," which
is his wife's official title,
down to the smallest ser-
vant, I was shown every
consideration and hospi-
tality. Therefore when I
recognized the Sheikh I
smilingly extended my
hand, which he kissed. I
had written to Madame

that I should D2 passing Port Said, and gave the name of my
ship; but the thought never occurred to me that they would take
all that trouble and travel here just to give me a handshake and
say " Bon voyage." The Sheikh said I must come ashore at once,
as his wife Malaka was at the hotel and most anxious to see me ;
furthermore, that they were waiting dinner for me. I hurried
ashore and walked along tie? wide main street accompanied by
the Sheikh, who wore a magnificent burnous of rich purple

THE GARDEN OF THE

SIT

FAYUM.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

stuff and a striped kaftan. On we went, past postcard shops,
splendid Japanese bazaars, and houses where nearly every
requisite of travel could be obtained ; but the street appeared
not so gay, nor the shopkeepers so importunate as on my previous

visits. However,
there were plenty
who rushed to their
doors and stared at a
blue-serged English-
woman walking with
an Arab Sheikh !
Upon reaching the
hotel, we found Ma-
laka in her private
sitting-room. She
wore wdiite velvet
and much jewellery,
and was delighted to

rsee me, which feeling
„; f ■ I reciprocated. How-

pleasant the change
was from the ship,
where 1 had felt so
lonely after my
friends departed, now
f ijy j to the welcome of

, %f a^^^^W warm friendship and

f hospitality ! It was

a great treat also for
Malaka. It is very
seldom the Sheikh
will allow his wife
in an hotel. She
always wears black with a white yashmac in public.

Once during my visit to the Fayum I remonstrated with her
upon wearing such magnificent raiment in the morning. Fre-
quently she would appear in satins or velvets, at ten a.m.,
with a fortune of jewels upon her. She sadly answered :
" Charlotte, if I don't wear them for you, whom should I put
them on to please ? You know my life here. Although I have

A PRINCESS OF THE BEDOUINS, FAYUM.

Port Said

everything, I am almost a prisoner, and seldom meel anyone."
I rcali/.cd, and said no more.

Dinner was served at once. I fell very guilty to have kept
them from theirs so late, and dubious about taking a lull share
of their liberal hospitality, as, not knowing of the unexpected
pleasure in store for me, 1 had already dined at seven on board
ship. There is nothing that irritates an Arab more than for a
guest to refuse a course. He at once reasons that either you don't
like his fare or you don't find it good enough ! I shall never forgel
my consternation on the occasion of my first dinner in the Fayum,
when a black slave brought half a fat sheep to mv side for me to
carve. I gave a despairing look at the huge carcase. I always find
it best when, if you don't know anything, simply to state the case
an 1 ask for advice. People are not supposed to know everything
in this world, although many dislike to acknowledge it. I begged
the Sheikh to do the proper thing regarding the mutton, whereupon
he carved me a noble portion of the fattest meat I had ever eaten !
Malaka explained that it was their custom. They always kept a
sheep fattened, and whenever a distinguished guest arrived it was
sacrificed.

Needless to say, that at the Port Said dinner this Gar-
gantuan piece de resistance did not make its appearance. The
courses were mostly European, with an occasional Arab dish.
There were many little stews with vegetables, and the chicken
was stuffed with rice, nuts, sultanas, currants, and spice of all
kinds, and was excellent. 1 have often given it to my friends at
home, where it has invariably found favour. For dessert they
had ordered a special sweet which I had last partaken of in the
Fayum. It was a large open tart lull of all kinds of fruit and very
strongly flavoured with orange flowers. Delicious coffee followed.
Of course, the Mohammedans do not drink spirits or wine. That
was a very good commandment which Mohammed gave to them
We sat chatting, enjoying ourselves, and all too quickly time
pointed to eleven-thirty. My ship left at twelve, so farewells
were said, with hopes of ren< wing our friendship next year.

I think Malaka imagines I am a little mad to undertake this
long trip by myself, and sometimes, when I look at the map of
Africa hanging in the companion way, and face the gigantic
voyage which I have set out to accomplish, I cannot help wondering
if I shall really achieve it and once again see my home and

A Woman's Winter in Africa

friends. ' Imp " hates me to have such thoughts, forbidding me
to become morbid.

At parting with my dear friends Malaka pushed a packet into
my hand. Woman-like, I must open it at once, and find a lovely
necklace of gold coins, also a bottle of oil of sandal-wood perfume.
How can I make her understand my gratitude for her never-
failing kindness ? Reluctantly I take my departure, the Sheikh
accompanying me to the ship.

The next morning my first question to the stewardess when

she brought me some
■ coffee was : " Did any
English ladies come
on board last night ? '
She replied : ' Yes,
Madame, one English
lady with her husband.
They are in the cabin
next to yours, and I
think they are going
to Dar - es - Salaam."
I am heartily glad,"

kl responded. " One
8 companion is better
^^^^^^^^^^■i^^^^^^^^^^^M than being absolutely

SOME OF THE SHEIKH's HOUSES, EGYPT. alone.

At present we have
three Germans and two English women. Down the Canal
there is nothing to chronicle. The weather is rather cool, and
there is a concert by a very good band in the morning and
again after dinner. The food continues all that could be
desired ; the lazy ship life is restful, and without incident we
d. Aft on day by day. I forgot to mention that a dance took place
the night before we reached Port Said. The deck ballroom was
prettily decorated with flags and Japanese lanterns, and the dance
was kept going for some hours notwithstanding the scarcity of
lady partners. How the tables are reversed from London parties,
where some of the greatest hostesses find a difficulty in securing
a suitable number of dancing men !

In meandering down the Suez Canal one's thoughts revert to
Count Ferdinand de Lesseps, and one cannot restrain pity and

Port Said

sympathy for the man with the greal brain who accomplished t his
marvellous waterway. That he unfortunately failed in thai
titanic scheme of his, the Panama (anal, was due, Let us say, to
disastrous fever as much as to faulty finance, and the wealthy
American Republic devoted two years solely to the task of
conquering the pestiferous climate before they set their men to
pierce the heart of the Isthmus. Within a short time the
gigantic Panama (anal will rank among the wonders of the
world.

We arrive at the Red Sea, and equip ourselves in white. Lemon
squashes with large chunks of ice take the place of other bevei ages ;
we prepare to keep cool. ^ Ysterday we encountered phenomenal
weather. Captain, passengers, and crew who pass through the
Red Sea periodically say they have never seen such a storm as
descended upon us. 'Idle heat was stifling. Every port was (irmly
secured, rain came down in sheets, decks were flooded, and there
was no place to sit or stand except in the saloon, which resembled
a Turkish bath. Thunder and lightning played around us.
Another exceptional thing was a thick white mist that covered us,
preventing our vision. We could only see a few yards away.
The fog-horn tooted its dismal notes. We were all very much
depressed. This inclement condition lasted the entire morning.
After lunch it cleared, and the sun came out and began drying up
the decks like an indignant housemaid who sees her work in
arrears and remedies it by making her pe( pi? comfortable and
happy once more.

Mokha, a small town clinging close to the seashore on the
Arabian side, nestled in drowsiness and sunshine. The latter
showed us square white houses, land destitute of verdure, and a
tall lighthouse. Mokha at one period gained the reputation of
producing the finest coffee in the world.

A short distance further along, lying near the opposite coast,
is the island of Perim. The following stoiv illustrates the means
by which it became a British possession. It was, in the' old days
when Aden had recently been acquired, overlooked by our people
when capturing the more important barrier to the East, so that
Perim had been neglected. Not so, however, with the French,
who foresaw its value in strategical importance in war times.
They made up an expedition to annex the island for France.
The French ship arrived at Aden, and the officers were invited

A Woman's Winter in Africa

to mess that evening with the Britishers. They fraternized
and the wine flowed, which loosened the tongue of one officer,
who confided that to-morrow morning they intended to take
Perim in the name of their country. This unexpected revelation
naturally opened the eyes of the English. A wink was given,
and a few English left the table unnoticed by the French. The
English officers who remained forced copious hospitality upon their
guests, until in drowsy bewilderment they forgot the island of
Perim. The next morning they sailed from Aden, and upon
arriving at their destination, to their horror and amazement they
beheld a British Mag waving, emblazoning the fact that the English
were already in possession !

Perim claims the attention of the passenger. This island
would have made a lovely water-colour with its heather-tinted,
rocky shores caressed by the sapphire sea. It fairly bristled with

cautionary lighthouses,
as if it were weary of
having unfortunate
wrecks tossed upon
its shores, thus giving
it an evil reputation.
, It was on the rocks

- jtl; '• . I of Perim that the

P. \ c>. China met In r
I doom.

Dim lights in the dis-

lb±

tance proclaim Aden.

It is about n p.m.

when we drop anchor

(lose by the Salselie.
pigeon houses, fayum. This ship seemtd

like an old friend.
When she made her maiden trip to the northern capitals I
enjoyed a very pleasant voyage on board. She was built
for swiftness, ami now acts as a sort ot ferry-boat to carry
mails and passengers from Aden to Bombay. A traveller is
constantly meeting with old friends of the shipping world. Discs
of glowing light announce the fact that most of the voyagers
have retired. Somali boatmen wearing turbans and a few
fluttering rags shout to each other, their gleaming teeth flash-

4«

Port Said

ing in the intense darkness. Hatches arc opened, merchandise
is already being lowered to the waiting boats below, and steam
derricks groan'and wheeze as if protesting againsl labour. Passing

to the other side of our ship are several huge barges loaded with
cotton, which we are to take on to the waiting populace in Africa.
At Aden a great deal of transhipment takes place. Many goods
coming from America change quarters here. There is more cargo
than was expected ; therefore the men will be obliged to work all
night. By the gangway is a flotilla of Indian traders with their
wares, but the Somali boatmen appear to have the monopoly
of leopard skins, horns, shell necklaces, and baskets. These
baskets are made by the natives, and are rather pretty both as
regards shape and colouring. It is too late to go on shore. The
town seems steeped in darkness, and one retires, but not to sleep—
the incessant noise forbids such refreshment.

Early next morning we sail, and even Aden, that arid volcanic
rock, dressed in pale blue cloudlike draperies, is beautiful, as
distance lending enchantment gathers it to its bosom. I was not
at all disappointed in being deprived of going ashore at Aden.
Previously I had visited the place some half a dozen times, but
for the benefit of travellers unfamiliar with Aden I think I can
safely say that from a tourist's point of view there is little of
interest. The mountains are certainly grand in their bleakness,
and the different invasions of the Arab tribes make interesting-
history. One of the most picturesque figures to pay homage to
their Majesties on Durbar Day at Delhi last year was the Sheikh of
Aden. He was a tall, magnificent specimen of stately manliness, and
he was almost the only ruler who appeared without jewels, wearing-
only his burnous of finest texture and a camel's-hair rope wound
many times around his head. This Sheikh was greatly interested
in the Kinemacolor photographs, and at the rehearsal of the
Rulers before the actual day of the Durbar Mr. Charles Urban
showed the Sheikh the particular workings of the Kinemacolor.
After he had paid his obeisance and backed out of their Majesties'
presence he passed very slowly before the machine in order that
the Kinemacolor might have an advantageous view of his regal
self.

People tell you to drive out to the Great Tanks, but from
personal experience I should add, Do not. In the first place, the
carriages are rather miserable contrivances with wretched, worn-

D 46

A Woman's Winter in Africa

out, slow-crawling ponies or horses. The distance is some eight
miles along a hot, dusty road. The horse I had dropped dead as I
arrived at the Tanks. Fortunately, while I was exploring these
huge receptacles my driver secured another specimen of horse-
flesh. The Great Tanks, or cisterns, are supposed to have been
built originally by the Persians about a.d. 600, when they invaded
that part of the country. Other authorities contest this idea, and
declare it was the Romans who were responsible. However, these
Tanks lay buried for centuries.

Towards 1830 merchants and navy men assembled in large
numbers at Aden, and it was regretted amongst the officers that

DISTANT VIEW OF ADEN.

the sailors generally preferred to leave the merchant ships and
join the Indian Navy, thereby causing much annoyance by placing
them short of hands after having brought the sailors on what
in those days was a long voyage. A new law declared that these
deserters should be put in prison for a short time as a punish-
ment, but at that period they were not obliged to work. Some
years after the Governor found it was useless for the Govern-
ment to house and feed these deserters, and he compelled them to
work for their bread, sending them to the Tanks to break stone
for road building ; and it was a prisoner who actually discovered
the Tanks. Then in 1856 British brain and activity overhauled,
cleaned, cemented, and re-established these huge, valuable

Port Said

reservoirs, which can retain 8,000,000 gallons <>l water truly a
" Godsend " to barren, parched Aden, where grass and flowers are
ever absent. A superfluous painted placard warned people " Nol 1 1 1
pick the flowers " —which the mos1 vigilant hunter would have
found an illusion and a snare.

Last year, when their Majesties landed at Aden from the
Medina on their way to India, the whole front of the landing-stage
had been transformed into a wealth of greenery. Palms, shrubs,
crotons, and flowers had been shipped from Bombay to beautify
and dress Aden, the gate of India.

There is an indifferent hotel, a line of straggling shops containing
a collection of Parsee goods ; ostrich feathers and fans are
cheaper here than in Port Said. Also they have a club and
brown golf links. The soldiers say the climate is healthy, and
they rather like the place because they save money here, as there
is really no expensive taste to cultivate. A few of the officers go
in for polo, but it is most difficult, and forage for the ponies is
expensive.

' Imp " suggests that we should establish a system of " Don'ts,"
warning people what to avoid at every stopping place ; and as It
wants occupation I shall delegate ' Imp " that part of the
chronicling.

DON'T

Lunch or dine at the hotel, ship preferable.

Drive to the Tanks. Not worth it, and you may miss ship.

CHAPTER IX
Dozvn tJic East Coast

A PERIOD of quiet ship life is entered upon, varied by concerts,
conversation, meals ; and sunsets are remarkably lovely
while the sea wears a robe of rich watered silk, shimmering towards
the horizon. Flying-fish, whales, and several sharks have not
omitted a certain amount of entertainment — one is so easily
amused when excitement is limited. The small Somaliland colony
who live in the well-deck, enjoy their housekeeping, and black
velvet forms, with wrappings of white or gaily coloured cotton,
rest tranquilly by day. Night sees them engaged in weird music.
Cape Guardafui shows us with picturesque clearness the sleeping
Lion crouching on its bold rocky promontory, ceaselessly guarding
the Hinterland of Italian Somaliland — that land of which we hear
little, but where one finds wild tribes, unknown customs, and
dangerous adventures ; not to mention the big game which prowls
practical! v unmolested. Most people do not realize the immense
breadth of Africa from Cape Guardafui to Cape Verde on the
West Coast — the continent being only 250 miles longer than it
is broad.

Yesterday we crossed the Equator. The weather was certainly
hot, but not disagreeably so. We have every convenience on
board in the way of electric fans, plenty of ice, and a well-chosen
menu. In the afternoon traditional Father Neptune, wearing his
rope, tow-wig, and beard, a high-pointed silvered tin crown, and
holding a trident, appeared, followed by his satellites — a dozen or
so, dressed in weirdly original costumes. He carried a large black
book, on the cover of which shone a silver cross. Herein were
inscribed the names of those unfortunate ones who acknowledged
they had never bumped the Line. These were captured and taken
to the lower deck, on which a large swimming tank had been pre-
pared for bathers during the hot weather. The miserables, after
listening to a lengthy sea harangue eloquently delivered by
Neptune, had their faces shaved with a white concoction and huge

H
o

>
Pi
—

D
O

A Woman's Winter in Africa

wooden razor. Some underwent the agony of having an enormous
wooden tooth extracted ; after the brave performance they were
ignominiously ducked in the tank, which must by its refreshing
qualities have repaid the uninitiated for their indignities. Much
snapshotting and laughter were indulged in.

About twenty of our passengers are leaving to-morrow at
Mombasa for Nairobi, many going on shooting expeditions.
They tell me that as the train passes through the country, the
game, not fearing it, is often seen grazing in a natural state. It
was decided that the Captain's farewell dinner should be cele-
brated to-night, and also an Equatorial Fancy Dress Ball should
take place afterwards. The dining saloon was decorated very
nicely with Japanese lanterns and garlands of paper roses. I
include the menu of an excellent dinner. Toasts were proposed
in German, English, and French.

MENU FOR " CAPTAIN'S DINNER "

Caviare in ice-block.

Green turtle soup.

Boiled salmon, Sauce Gourmand.

Saddle of veal a la Couvaroff.

Galantine of Capon, Sauce Cumberland.

Asparagus, Sauce Mousseline, •

Roast Pheasant a la Jockey Club

Salad.

Illuminated Furst Puckler-Bombe.

Pastry.

Butter and Cheese.

Fruit. Coffee.

The health of Captain Iversen and his family was drunk with
hearty appreciation. His courtesy to everyone richly deserves
our gratitude.

When the ices were served lights were switched oft while fairy
lights took their place, greatly adding to the beauty of the
scene.

Considering there were only five ladies on board, the costumes
at the dance were most varied and original, all being designed with
whatever material was procurable. Every man adorned himself

I )own the East Coast

in joyous garb. It wasagreal convenience to wear lighl costumes,
as the tropica] weather demanded flimsiness.

Alter the hall, ices, sandwiches, and lemon squash were served.
All the passengers were of one opinion that we had enjoyed a
very pleasant evening.

At noon next day a low-lying stretch of yellowish sand, backed
by groves of palms and mangrove swamps, proclaim the harbour
of Kilindine, said to be the finest natural shelter on the East (Oast
of Africa, with the exception of Pemba Bay. Above it float soft
summer clouds. It is the hot season. From the ancient Portuguese
Fort, also from Government House, a Union Jack is flying. A
whale bobs his dark head from the water, probably startled by
the arrival of two steamers, ours and the Admiral of the same
Company. It was on this ship that H.R.H. the Duke of Con-
naught and Colonel Roosevelt made their memorable voyages,
Captain Doherr being in command at the time. Buffaloes often are
found near this water, and lions up to a short time ago were shot on
the island of Mombasa. For the first time I see the baobab tree,
commonly called cream of tartar. The Dutch once used the pods
of this for the preparation of bread. One would imagine that it
was a dead thing, until one discerns springlike leaves at intervals
on the dead-appearing branches.

We pass the ruins of several old forts which date from 1500,
recalling slavery times, for Mombasa did a great trade in those
dark days. Arabs and Portuguese conquered and reconquered,
until it passed under a British Protectorate.

Although it is very warm it is not painfully so, considering we
are within four degrees of the Equator. Naturally people do not
exercise much in the middle of the day, preferring the early
morning or late afternoon. The evenings are cool. Small white-
sailed fishing boats drift past mango and cocoanut trees; on the
shore are peculiar-looking traps to catch the fish, made of dark red
reeds. Down rattles our anchor, immediately we are surrounded
by a swarm of eager black faces. Swahilis in dhows and small
craft shout, Habari ! What news ? Yambo'. Good morning.
A useful word to learn in this language is " Menda zako," " Go
away ! " A party of us were seated in one of the clean white-
cushioned boats, but we had difficulty in making our men push
off. They in their greed fancied that by waiting they would secure
all the passengers. It is only a short distance over to Kilindine,

A Woman's Winter in Africa

and there appears to be no fixed tariff, as the men demanded yd.
from some and 6d. from others, while sportsmen who landed with
much luggage were entirely at their mercy.

We landed at Kilindine, the terminus of the Uganda Railway,
only to find a large corrugated-iron shed, sectioned alphabetically,
regarding luggage, as at home. There are many police about,
dressed in khaki, with smart high-standing red turbans finished
with a sort of cockade in bright yellow. Many of them come from

India ; I was also surprised to
notice various officials were
Goanese and Hindu. The
examinations, especially in
the case of sportsmen, are
very strict. Every gun has
to be thoroughly examined,
unlocked, and all cartridges
declared. In fact one's entire
equipment is overlooked, even
necessities being dutiable. On
the station I remarked several
priests, gowned in white,
having long rosaries on their
necks. The fast train to
Nairobi leaves every other
day, the distance being some
322 miles. Nevertheless, the
Uganda State Railway takes
_' ; hours to run this distance.
I am told the journey is most
interesting, also including the
voyage round Lake Nyasa.
Nature has granted them
zebra, gun, gazelle, hartebeeste, impala, rhinoceros, giraffe, and
possibly lion. One lady, a resident, said that from the train she
had seen two lions eating a zebra. The exports coming down
from the interior of this valuable country consist of hides, ivory,
rubber, <»il seeds, coffee, gum, copal, and potatoes, which grow
very well on the uplands. All are shipped to Delagoa Bay and
Durban. Cotton also promises to be an important industry;
tobacco and the fibre of the mangrove tree add to a useful list,

ANCIENT PORTUGUESE GATEWAY, MOMBASA.

Entrance to the Fort.

I town the East ( Oast

Having at last passed the Customs and been importuned by
various Swahilis, who beg to guide us for whatever our generosity
will shower on them, we escape and enter a public ghari. A
species of open trolley-car, very primitive, holding only four
persons. This speeds oil to Mombasa, about two miles away.
Along the main road, which is called Rlacdonald Terrace, we
have nothing but praise for its beauty. On each side arc brilliant-
foliaged flamboya trees, a member of the acacia family, the

LION ATTACKING ZK1SRA.

branches of which are entirely covered with the most glorious red
blossoms, while green and brown pods of some six inches in length
hang from the already over-gaudy tree. British residents have
commodious bungalows, with charming gardens, in which banana
trees, cocoanut palms, and the delicious paw-paw supply a wealth
of fruit, not to mention the flowering shrubs and decorative
crotons, which thrive almost as at Panama. The climate matures
these to perfection. Houses are mostly two-storeyed, with wide
verandahs, the huts of the natives being thatch-roofed, with
white-washed walls of clay. The trolley stopped at the Hotel Metro-

A Woman's Winter in Africa

pole, which shares with the Grand, under the same management,
the reputation of being the best. The Metropole was very full, and
some of our people complained of their rooms. We were told that
we should dine better on our ship than here. The courtyard or
lounge, with its long chairs and sheet-iron tables, with a straw
dado around the walls, and an uncarpeted floor not too clean, did
not particularly appeal to me. " Imp " also protested. They
tell me the cost per day en pension at the Metropole ranges from
10 to 15 rupees ; the charges vary according to the situation of the
rooms. If on the balcony, the price is higher.

The news from Mombasa consists of a vague revolution idea
between the powerful tribes of Masai, Nandi, and Lumbria. The
first two have hated each other since prehistoric times, and the
present quarrel is. a dispute over their land possessions. There
has been bloodshed, and several native police have- been shot.
The Government are dealing with the matter quietly, but the Masai
have appealed to the High Court. We strolled through the main
streets, which were as narrow as in an Arab town, but fairly clean,
with tortuous alleys leading to the native quarters. Everyone
must be struck by the magnificent carved teak doors, relics of Arab
days. In the lower hall of the houses there is a place for rick-
shaws, which are largely used.

We went on to the Portuguese Fort, dating from 1593. The
drawbridge is grass-grown, a large paw-paw tree casts its shadow
over the inclined pathway. The walls are of dark red, and on one
side surrounded by the sea. Above the principal gateway is a
tablet informing us that in 1635 Don Francisco de Cabreira was
responsible for the rebuilding; it is at present used as a prison.
Above the inscription is a cross with I.H.S., and a Bleeding Heart
pierced by three daggers. The streets bear familiar names, such
as Thompson Fane, Hardinge Row, and so on. The Indian element
is much in evidence. Indian shops crowded with spoils from China
and Japan predominate. Many Indians are engaged in municipal
work. At about four in the afternoon people emerge for their
recreation. There are several clubs, tennis being very popular,
and a golf course recently laid out. A well-known hunter tells me
the following story, illustrating the swiftness and intelligence of
the telegraph department of Uganda : He was camping on the
Athi River and despatched a boy twenty miles to a Baboo station-
master to send a wire. The boy returned bringing a form, saying
58

I town the East ( Oast

he had orders thai the words must be written on thai form,
litis being done he started back, making sixty miles' travel.
Again he returned, bringing a stamp, and told the gentleman he
must affix it himself, thereby making a hundred milts' running in

order to send one wire !

*»,':

;'~-«*^f)"^''

* ■ ■ *

.: "*-,•■■■'-■ ?F

'4, > V.

SNAKE AT HOME.

DONT'S BY " IMP "

Don't stay at the hotel if you are invited to a friendly bungalow.

Don't give the natives whatever they demand, for they are
never satisfied.

Don't change German money into rupees — is. 4d. — there is a
discount on German money. English is best.

You will find Indian shops dear. Curios from Uganda may be
obtained in a shop at the beginning of Main Street, but there is
not a large selection.

CHAPTER X

Tanga

AT seven in the morning a green well-wooded country and a tall
J~\ watch-tower of ancient workmanship give me my first
glimpse of Tanga, in German East Africa. Several of our few re-
maining passengers disembark here. One family in particular
journey by train 250 miles into the country, then have another
sixty miles to do by mules and carriers. The gentleman is manager
of some large rubber plantations ; I fear his young wife will be
weary before she reaches her destination. People rarely stay out
here more than three years ; the climate is very enervating, and
for health's sake one must have a change. One catches a distant
view of mountains in the background, some of the peaks rising to
the height of 10,000 feet. The highest are quite eighteen miles
away.

The most prominent building on arrival is the German Hospital.
Europeans are accommodated in the large, airy, two-storeyed
red-roofed building, natives having an annexe to themselves.
Situated as it is on a promontory, it has the advantage of the cool
sea winds. The grounds are spacious and well kept. At Tanga the
buildings are more covered with foliage than at Mombasa ; from
the shore it looks less interesting, but do not be deceived by what
the wiseacres tell you ! I engage a clean boat, the Swahilis wear-
ing smart red fezzes on their ebony heads, and khaki clothes. For
one mark I was rowed to the landing-stage, where a native obtained
a rickshaw for me. This is the conveyance of Tanga, together with
narrow-gauge trolley-cars. I went jogging along the main street,
and I being alone Imp accompanied me, complaining it had not had
much privacy with me for exchange of thoughts, as I passed most
of my time with fellow-passengers. The drive was beautiful. On
each side for some distance blazed the scarlet flamboya tree,
oleander, and palms of every variety. The houses are mostly two-
storeyed, with deep closed-in verandahs, painted white with red
roofs. In the gardens cocoanuts, mangoes, and pineapples abound.
60

Tanga

On arriving at the market, a long, open structure, I descended
from my rickshaw and passed through.

Markets, in whatever place I am, always interest me, for there
one sees for oneself how the people live and what they live on.
It was about nine in the morning, which is considered late for
purchasing in the tropics. The meat certainly did not look
appetizing, heat making the stench most disagreeable ; l>nt the
fruit made a rather fine show. I bought some ripe mangoes, the
largest I have seen, pineapples, bananas, and limes. Curious red

HOSPITAL, TANGA.

and yellow peppers were in great demand. The blacks control all
the market trade. A quaint old Goanese was selling belts com-
posed of a dozen silver chains, fastened by a German five-mark piece.
Evidence of loyalty to the Kaiser was manifest in every direc-
tion ; his photographs and chromos in uniform decorated every
shop and hotel. On leaving the market I was much struck by the
cleanliness of a coffee restaurant for the native marketmen. There
they sat enjoying excellent-looking brown and white bread, and
I was in a way reminded of the stalls at Covent Garden. This
bread was every bit as good as that at home.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

The Government has excelled itself in laying out Tanga allow-
ing it wide, shady streets with countless blooming shrubs, arranging
squares and open recreation grounds. At Bismarcks Platz, for in-
stance, is a large, well-kept cafe ; also a bandstand in the gardens,
where red and yellow crotons stand ten and twelve feet high.
There are several of the lovely fan-spread palms. On a stone
pedestal a fine bronze bust of Prince Bismarck recalls the wisdom
of a great man. The monument is guarded by old cannon placed

GRAND HOTEL, TANGA.

at its base. I am told that Tanga is noted for its band ; here in
tlie cool of an afternoon the Europeans meet for social chat.

There are two hotels, which show a far better front than at
Mombasa. The Kaiserhof Hotel, a large white hostelry, with
green shutters and deep balconies, has a large open restaurant and
cafe, which in this climate is appreciated. The Grand Hotel is
spoken of as the best this year. Here I found clean rooms ; the
ladies' sitting-room was furnished with wicker chairs of artistic
design, straw matting covered the floor, and on the writing-desks
gleamed silver necessaries — quite luxurious ! A balcony runs
the length of the front, where meals are served if desired on blue-
62

not
in i
my
con

ul.

CHAPTER XI
Dar-es-Salaam

IT is a glorious Sunday afternoon, the Golden God reigns in a
tropical sky. Many healths and good-bye toasts have been
drunk, as we are now entering Dar-es-Salaam, an Arab name,
which translated means " Harbour of Peace." Truly it is well
named. All passengers line the rails watching for the approach
and first sight of their welcoming friends. The band is playing,
and one cannot restrain the spirit of jubilation that spreads from
prow to stern. We pass quite close to shore, which is crowded by
white-clad people waving handkerchiefs. Two sharp turns
through an extremely narrow neck of water and we enter the
fine land-locked harbour of Dar-es-Salaam, the largest port of
German East Africa. From here are shipped enormous quantities
of merchandise for the Congo and Central Africa.

Upon the dropping of our anchor we are met with all kinds of
craft — smart official boats, dhows, a number of small white-
winged sailing yachts, skimming as close as they dare, and boats
full of enthusiastic people. The mail's arrival means a great deal
to the 1500 Europeans isolated here and deeply merged in colonial
life. Fathers, mothers, and whole families, after a dreary sojourn,
are to be reunited and start their daily occupations together. Then
the interesting news, things they have seen and done, messages
and presents from far-away friends, are eagerly looked for. The
heat here is most trying. Frequently the residents are obliged to
leave — it is not considered extreme when the thermometer
registers 38 or 40 degrees C. in the shade.

Although Mombasa is nearer the Equator, Dar-es-Salaam is much
hotter. The picture which presents itself is that of a long row of
well-designed buildings, Government and private, the splendid
Catholic church, with high steeple, while further on a Protestant
church rears its tower. Throughout this long sea-front drive
the scarlet flamboya acacias blaze, and tall, swaying cocoanut
palms and crotons of all sizes and colours. It is with extreme

K 65

A Woman's Winter in Africa

sorrow that " Imp " and I realize the fact that we must leave the
dear, comfortable Adolph Woermann, which has meant home to
us for a month.

My thoughts drift back to the 2ist of December, at South-
ampton, when in great weakness, owing to bronchitis, I boarded
this ship. Now I am perfectly well and scarcely realize the
meaning of the word cough ! " Imp " whispers, " What did I
tell you ? " which I pretend not to hear. Imagine the difference —
England and its cold, wet climate — then one month's comfortable
sailing on a ship where you are waited on by attentive stewards.
No troubles with servants nor sticking on insurance stamps, no
feeding coals to a ravenous fire ! Here you have excellent meals
served without a thought of ordering, you listen to music, most of
your wants are anticipated, you have met pleasant companions,
broadened your views in the mutual exchange of thought, have
seen and visited marvellously interesting places, improving yourself
in every way.

Upon inquiring I find that about eight of our passengers who
are going farther south will live on board ship for two days before
we transfer to the Markgraff, which at present is discharging
cargo at Mombasa, I am pleased to say that amongst these are
my friends Mr. and Mrs. Henry of Johannesburg, on their way to
Durban. Mrs. Henry and I were the only English-speaking
women on board, having taken all our shore excursions together.
At the end of the voyage a ship's party becomes like one big family,
and as I speak French and understand a few German words we all
chatter like magpies. Most of the Germans are progressing in
English, the men especially, since commercial relations with
England demand it.

We are a very small party at dinner to-night, having our
coffee on deck. Mr. Ott and Mr. Bee'sley, who are responsible
for the management of the D.O.A. and Woermann Linie at
Dar-es-Salaam, inform us that being Sunday night they have
a grand concert at the Kaiserhof Hotel and suggest that we
should attend. We are rowed ashore, the fare being 4d. (surely
not extravagant), and wander along a white road planted with
trees. A two-quarter-old moon lends beauty to the scene. We pass
the prison, an old building of large dimensions which dates from
Portuguese and slavery days. Figure to yourself the miserable
times some poor creatures have known behind those thick-built
66

I )ar-es-Salaam

walls ! We sir th.' post office, an up-to-date modern building,
also the Palace, or rather house, of the banished Sultan Said Khaled,
exiled from Zanzibar, who lives in his retirement with a lew
faithful supporters. The tall walk of the Catholic church gleam
in the moonlight. We enter, to fitnd a plain but well-arranged
interior, with stained-glass windows, but very crude a s far as < olour-
ing goes, a fine altar, carved pulpit of ebony, comfortable cane
benches, and a lofty ceiling. The funds for this church have been
largely subscribed by natives, the Goanese having settled here

GENERAL VIEW OF DAR-ES-SAI.AAM.

in large numbers. In fact along this coast they are devout
Catholics and Royalists.

I mav state for the benefit of my readers who are not familiar
with this race that Goa is a province held by the Portuguese in
South-west India. In olden times the Portuguese colonials
married native Indian women, and from those alliances sprang
these people who prefer to drop their mother's ancestry, calling
themselves Portuguese.

We should

like to have gone into the Protestant church, which

A Woman's Winter in Africa

stands close by, half hidden by a grove of cocoanut palms ; but
since no service was being held at the time, doors were locked.
This fact has always impressed me in regard to Protestant churches
everywhere. One never finds a Catholic church closed to worship-
pers, it being possible to enter and pray or meditate whenever
you will ; but not so in those of my own faith. When service
is over the doors are invariably locked.

A large white hotel stands out from the mist of palms and

STREET IN DARES-SALAAM.

shrubs — it is the Kaiserhof. There is a wide terrace, brilliantly
lighted, on which quite a hundred people dressed in white sit
sipping beverage, three-quarters of them drinking beer. Some
of this beer is imported from the homeland, but most is a Weisse
Beer, served in enormous bowl-like glasses, a full pint in each.
This is made in Dar-es-Salaam. The beer has a slightly acid taste,
which is a good thirst-curer in the grilling country, where refresh-
ing liquid is in constant demand. Another glass which drew my
attention as peculiar was what they call a vase of beer ; it is a
tall glass twelve inches high, such as we use at home for flowers.

I )ar-es-Salaam

When filled with golden beer crowned by foam ii is rather difficult
to manage, but has an attractive look on the table. All these
people were sitting in the cool evening air listening to an excellent
band of about forty khaki-coloured natives, their conductor being
a German officer.

The Germans take very good care of their colonists, and arrange
for their entertain-
ment. The French
act very similarly
for their colonies,
for I remember
when at Saigon,
Cochin China, 1 at-
tended a splendid
performance of the
Opera. Upon ask-
ing how the people
could support an
Opera House, 1 was
told, " Oh, the
French Government
send out companies,
and maintain it at
the cost of many
thousand pounds a
year." We do not
do enough in that
respect for our
colonies. They say
that Englishmen
take their pleasures
sadly, but can you
imagine our Colonial
Office bothering its
head whether we
shall have opera or not in our colonies ? After the hot trying day
who could begrudge these people enjoying the cool evening and
listening to music, even if it were not inside a church ?

Here we met many of our voyage companions and their
friends passing a pleasant hour. Next day, we, like greenhorns,

SECRETARY OF STATE'S VIS11 l<
THEIR EXCELLENCES DR. SCHNEE

DAR-ES-SALAAM.
\M> FKAU SCHNEE.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

started from our ship to explore Dar-es-Salaam. There are only
four horses, and they belong to His Excellency Dr. Schnee,
Governor of German East Africa. The hot climate and the
deadly tsetse-fly kill them. For conveyance there are rickshaws
with black boys, and occasionally one sees a pair of small, well-worn
mules drawing a carriage. Our. party, however, decided to walk,
thinking the exercise would be beneficial after being restricted
to deck promenades for such a long time. Thus we valiantly
started dressed in thinnest white gowns, cork topees, naturally
wearing veils — at least, Mrs. Henry and I wore them. We had
not, however, realized the power of the sun, for the blistering
process started almost immediately. I was wearing what is called
a lingerie gown, composed of the finest lawn and lace. Old Sol
obviously did not like my costume, or perhaps he admired it too
much ; any way, he fastened his eyes on me and embroidered my
skin to match the pattern of the lace. He rather overdid his
caresses on my shoulders, causing horrid white blisters to rise, and
this painful affliction I still b ar the marks of.

We had not calculated upon the difference of this progressive
port between 10.30 p.m. and 10.50 a.m., therefore we made a
mistake. Of course, people who live here, like business men and
officials, rise at six, do their work in the early hours, go home to
breakfast, take a siesta, and venture out again at about four. So
with their womenkind : they wait until late afternoon before
venturing out. There are several hundred ladies at Dar-es-Salaam,
and a hundred European children. The men greatly outnumber
the women. There is a new golf course here with nine holes, by
the sea, laid out with the help of the English Consul, Mr. King;
and tennis courts. But I should think the heat would not induce
one to exercise much, even towards evening. I have visited all
the tropical ports, such as Singapore, Panama, Buenos Aires, and
Port Cabello, but I think for heat Dar-es-Salaam holds first place.
Yet one must also remember that this is their hottest season. In
June, July, and August the warmth is greatly abated, but up in
the interior of German East Africa one finds quite a cool climate.

The railway, a narrow gauge of a yard wide, with carriages of
a rather primitive character, has for some time been climbing to
Morogoro, some 200 miles. Now it is ambitiously ascending
straight to Lake Tanganyika, which naturally opens up the
country. This year 8000 bales of fine cotton have been exported
TO

I )ar-es-Salaam

from German Eas1 Africa, also large quantities of fibre, which
realizes £35 a ton ; and coming down from the Congo have been
enormous consignments of rubber. ( )ur ship has broughl oul 1250
tons of steel rails for this new railway. Soon, it is hoped, the
Makatta Plains will be open to sportsmen ; this may prove an
Eldorado for them, as big game of all kinds abounds. The place
will then be a serious rival to its neighbour Uganda, which they
say has been too well shot over in most places.

The sun being so fierce, we decided not to have our skins baked
after blistering, so we adjourned to the Kaiserhof to rest on its
broad, shady verandah. There is always a breeze on one side of
the hotel. Here we lunched, and found an appropriate meal, well
served. The cost of the luncheon was 2 rupees each, and for
pension 12 rupees. It is considered the Savoy of East Africa,
and is ably managed by Mr. Paul Heltmann, assisted by his sister.
The hotel consists of forty rooms, which are large and airy ; about
half of them have bathrooms attached. The black waiters in
spotless white, wearing embroidered muslin caps, stand in line,
and at a signal in the same manner as on the P. & O. steamers,
they serve the different courses. Much fruit is eaten, delicious
mangoes, pineapples, oranges, and bananas being most refreshing.

In the afternoon we took rickshaws and proceeded through
the various streets, which bore the names of Kaiserstrasse,
Bismarckstrasse, Wiessmannstrasse. Facing the sea is a bronze
bust in honour of Prince Bismarck, and farther back in the
town th memory of Major von Wiessmann, the great explorer,
is recalled by an elevated statue with a native standing on
guard. The population of the town is more than 20,000,
the Europeans numbering about 1500 ; but that number is
constantly increasing. We were conducted through broad streets
with rows of acacia and palm trees, casting a beautiful shade,
past the Brumer Hotel, and visited several Goanese shops, mostly
containing ordinary Indian curios, but in one place the Indian
dealer had some tine elephants, carved in ebony, and curious
mounted trophies, including a dried elephant's tail.

I was glad to s.ee this, as it showed one how the hair is obtained
for making elephant bracelets, which are in great vogue along the
coast. A large variety of Ceylon stones were also for sale. Eventu-
ally I succumbed to a fine plaited straw mat in bright colours, also
a shell head-dress and belt, which are worn by the natives on gala

A Woman's Winter in Africa

occasions. In some parts of the country where there is little metal
coin, these shells or cowries are used as currency, about one
thousand of them being the value of a rupee. We went on to the
Bazaar, where dirt, colour, cloth, beads, and a miscellaneous
collection spelt much fascination to native dames. European
ladies have either to bring out enough gowns to last the usual two
or three years or send home for them, as there are as yet no shops
where ready-made clothing can be bought. I consider this rather
a pity, as the Germans are most enterprising, and a ladies' em-
porium would surely prove a good investment.

The market next drew our attention, where the natives crouched
over smelly fried fish. The fresh meat was kept in wire cages infested
by flies, there being no ice in the market. All kinds of tropical
fruit and great mounds of cocoanuts furnished this rather unappetiz-
ing place. Our only excitement was a tiny pretty-faced monkey,
about six inches long, with greyish blue fur, wearing a wreath of
white whiskers. Mrs. Henry fell violently in love, and bought
him for zh rupees. We were all much interested in Mr. Monkey,
and after bathing and Keating-powdering our small friend we
christened him Darsallar, in memory of the place where he had
been found. Poor Darsallar has since died in Johannesburg. The
large area containing thousands of native huts we inspected ;
they were in good preservation, large and airy, for native houses,
many having four or more rooms. They are palm-thatched and
whitewashed. Groups of natives squatted outside, eating bananas
or mangoes. Fat piccaninnies toddled about, and were amused by
their chicken companions vainly in quest of food. The natives
looked clean, well-fed, and comfortably housed.

Upon returning to our beloved Adolpli Woermann to dine, we
found her still indulging in a terrific attack of mat dc mcr, and
incessantly vomiting cargo. The next day, through the kindness
of Mr. Ott, I enjoyed a very pleasant drive out to the point and
over some miles of cocoanut plantations. On this point is situated
Government House, the General's quarters and accommodation
for the officers. They were beginning to put out decorations for
the celebration of the Emperor's birthday. Farther along we
saw many soldiers practising at rifle targets. A large hospital,
Moorish in architecture, facing the cool sea breeze is passed.
People come here to be treated from all over the East Coast.

The next building of importance is the residence of the Governor-

I )ar-es-Salaam

General, \h\ Schnse. It is a splendid-looking mansion, standing
high and built in the colonial style of the U.S.A., surrounded by
a lovely garden. We saw groups of marabou standing stupidly

DARSALLAR THE MONKEY.

A. well-kept cemetery is situated near, and sadly
Climate takes a terrible toll of life in this zone.
Adjoining is the Mohammedan cemetery. Fearing our span of

on the shore.
full of graves

A Woman's Winter in Africa

worn mules would be tired and heated, we turned back, taking a
picturesque route through the plantation to our wharf. This is our
last dinner with Captain Iversen, which we all regret exceedingly,
for to-morrow morning by noon we tranship to the Markgraff.

We are all of the same opinion concerning the comfort and
kindness we have received on the Adolph Woermann and Captain

Rm ■

J3M

CATHOLIC CHURCH, DAR-ES-SALAAM.

Iversen's personal attention to his passengers ; it is no wonder
that he is one of the most bdoved captains of the line, and that
many people wait months for his ship to carry them homeward.
I also wish to thank Mr. Beesley and Mr. Ott for the hospitality I
received from them.

After lunch our small party of five was transferred to the Mark-
graff, which can in no way be compared with the Adolph Woermann.
She is more of a cargo than a passenger boat, only 3800 tons ; but

I )ar-es-Salaam

is the only steamer going south for two weeks, when the General
conn's along, and after staying three days at Dar-es- Salaam, and
thinking of the thousands of mi Its I have yet to traverse, " Imp
and I decide we ninst not lose time. The Markgraff, an inter-
mediate steamer, stops at many of the small interesting ports
which the grand mail steamers ignore. The captain and first
officer do what is possible to give us comfort ; there is plenty of
ice on board, they kill their own poultry, so we get on fairly
well. I miss my nice stewardess, Hermine Bunning, who was one of
the most obliging girls I have ever met in my many years of travel.
1 am glad to say that dear Mrs. Henry and her husband are still
fellow-voyagers, they going in this ship to Durban, while I get out
at Beira. Our stewards are Goanese, but we do not carry a
stewardess. We have a large number of natives on the well deck.
It is amusing to watch them ; they have a very particular stove to
cook over. Last night one family had a dinner-party. They laid
clean straw mats on the deck, and an enormous curry was served
with many chutneys resting in tiny bowls. The old grandfather
presided, and the bright and merry eyes of the youngsters regarded
the feast with jubilant glee. Our little monkey Darsalla comes
in for a great deal of attention, being most friendly, and will, 1
feel sure, soon suffer from indigestion, as first one will bring it a
mango, then another a banana, and another an orange. It has
polite Arab manners, and refuses nothing.

CHAPTER XII
Zanzibar

BLUE, softly-tinted skies, like those of Corfu, overhang a
beautiful garden — it is the island of Zanzibar. Along the
shores, and framed by cocoanut palms, whose fresh greenness waves
indolently in the summer zephyrs, are the ancient palaces of the
different Sultans. With each reign the man in possession of an
uncertain throne built his home here, endowing it with his own
individual taste. Some are in good repair, with palm-thatched
native huts clustered round them like parasites ; others form
picturesque ruins, encased lovingly with flowering vines. These
palaces are built of coral rock crushed into cement, and are there-
fore more durable than many of the residences in Africa. Small
islands dot the horizon. One is Bat Island, and here thousands
of bats, looking like old rags tied on a tree, sleep peacefully in the
hot sun, but nightly make a pilgrimage to the mainland.

Grave Island, a near neighbour, lying flat and clothed in verdure,
retains its name in consequence of the many sailors buried there.
On a nearer approach the white tombstones are seen standing like
pale sentinels and guarding the silent homes of death. Prison Island
is larger, quite some miles in length. The Government built a
mo lern prison and sent the native convicts to serve their time
here ; but they complained that it was too cold, they could not
endure it, so now it is used as a quarantine station. The terrible
scourge of cholera has frequently visited these shores.

Money in Zanzibar is counted in rupees and pice, as in India.
Thousands of Indians have settled here, and, commercially
speaking, trade is pretty much in their hands. For many years a
landmark in the harbour was a dilapidated wreck named the
Glasgow, which belonged to Said Khaled. This Sultan the English
wished to depose, but he threatened us and refused to leave his
ancestral throne, whereupon we bombarded his palace. He
defiantly returned our fire with his only ship, *he Glasgow. The
English were obliged to make him see the error of his ways, and

Zanzibar

with one shot disabled the ship. For fifteen years it has rocked
here, an object lesson to the natives ; but as the authorities now
consider it an obstacle to navigation it was decided to blow it
up. A vessel with explosives came down from Perim, a1 the cosl oi
£5000, and now the Glasgow has entirely disappeared.

Sultan Said Khaled was obliged to flee from his country, and
took refuge in German East Africa. The Government befriended
him, and granted a pension for his maintenance, which un-
fortunately they have to pay to this day, as he still lives at Dar-es-
Salaam. Another interesting celebrity of Zanzibar who has
recently passed away was Tippu-Tib, a name which translated
means rifle noise.
His hotel at Zanzibar
was a great resort
for big-game hunters.
Without his assist-
ance, rumour says,
Sir Henry Stanley
woukl never have
been able to find
Livingstone. Tippu-
Tib was a great scout ,
his passport working
wonders with the
different tribes. He
was at one time
Governor of the
Congo.

In the old days, before Mombasa assumed its present importance,
Zanzibar meant headquarters for the traveller who came to
organize his caravan for Africa, and the Sheikhs did an important
business in arranging transportation to the mainland. It still
remains the strongest quarter of Arabs in East Africa. It was also
the biggest slave-market in the East. Captured blacks from the
interior were brought in cargoes to Zanzibar, and here they were
distributed, this proving a lucrative business.

There are only about one hundred European residents, and
most of these represent their different countries, being engaged in
the Government. A pretty sight upon entering the harbour are
the flags flying from the various consulates. The British Consul

STREET SCENE IN NATIVE TOWN.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

has quite a palace, with a truly lovely garden, near the sea. The
inside is most artistic, containing a minstrel gallery and some very
fine old carving. Population consists of Swahilis, Arabs, Indians,
Goanese, and Greeks, numbering about 260,000. The climate is
delightful — slightly hot at midday ; the rains coming during March
and April. The palace of the Sultan is the most distinctive building
which meets the eye, large and four-storeyed, with verandahs,
and a tower from which a flag flutters. Now it is used as Govern-
ment offices. The Sultan spends most of his time in Europe
enjoying a pension from the British Crown.

Here the French Cathedral is fine and imposing, with two high
steeples piercing the pellucid sky. A large French Mission Hospital
faces the water front, and a short distance away is the white-
walled High Court with its red-roofed tower. Decision of law
amongst such mixed peoples, religions, and castes must be very
complicated. How easy, for the Mohammedan to divorce when
by simply saying " Talak " to his wife three times before a witness,
he is free to marry again ! The Police are all Swahilis. The Caram,
or feast, is indulged in upon momentous affairs, such as a birth,
marriage, or death. " All is not beer and skittles," as the old say-
ing goes, in travel, and as we have to get to Dar-es-Salaam by
six this evening the Adolph Woermann allowed me but one hour
on shore. The steamer only calls for mails and to disembark
passengers. It was a great disappointment to me, for all my life
I have had a desire to visit this wonderful island.

I intend to be entirely honest with my public, never describing
what I have not seen personally. I have to thank Judge Lindsay
Smith for his extreme kindness in giving me valuable in-
formation about Zanzibar. He has presided over the High
Court here for nearly ten years, so I could not have a better
informant. Courteously he piloted me to the harbour and acted
as my guide during that altogether too short hour. We visited the
main street, which was singularly interesting in its Arab beauty,
high buildings close together, and very narrow streets. When a
motor — and there are many here — turns the corner, one is bound
to lean against the walls in order to let it pass. I took several
photographs, and purchased a bracelet made of elephant's tail
mounted in gold. Zanzibar is famous for these ornaments. In the
shops wonderful African curios abound — carved ivory, ebony, and
jewellery. Alas ! that my time was so short ! It was twelve

Zanzibar

o'clock noon, and between the baking sun and my mad rush, to see
as much as possible' was distinctly trying. I lefl " Imp " on the
ship, as I did not choose to listen to its views, as I had enough oi
my own. Fortunately the Judge was most patient !

The Bazaars were gaudy, and varied little from those at Bombay.
However, they are quite worthy of a visit. I was sorry not to be
able to drive to the clove plantation, which I am told is most
beautiful. Ninety per cent of the world's supply of cloves comes

A MONSTER SILK Col ION TREE.

from Zanzibar. They are picked while pale green, and 1 can
picture these plantations, as I have passed some weeks at the
spice gardens of Candy, in Ceylon. If one has time a drive to
these aromatic groves should be taken. I visited the English
Club, a fine, large structure, with the wonderful carved Arab doors,
which are kept in perfect condition. They should be simply
polished. The black ebony, with its intricate, lacelike carving,
characteristic of Arab architecture, forms an effective relief to
the polished brass clamps and spikes with which these doors are
decorated.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

I should love to 'have stayed a week at the Afrika Hotel,
but as I had promised our good Captain Iversen not to
exceed my hour my conscience kept reminding me to hurry.
Regretfully I turn my back on this singularly lovely island, and
with grateful thanks to Judge Lindsay Smith I enter a smart
Government boat manned by eight jet-black khaki-and-red-clad
boatmen, and speed back to the Adolph Woermann. One of the
interesting features of Zanzibar is the wonderful skill of its divers.
These boys could, I verily believe, live in the water, they appear
so perfectly at home in a tiny dug-out, from which they leap and
go down yards below surface for pennies. For a shilling they dart
under the ship, bounding up on the other side with buoyant
fervour.

C II A P T E R XIII

Portuguese Nyasaland Pemba Bay and Port Amelie

L\ST night, at about twelve, we encountered a violent thunder-
_v storm. Lightning flashed through the cabins, giving a
gorgeous illumination, followed by crashing thunder. At
breakfast this morning a lady asserted that it seemed as if the
very heavens were angry with us ! Sheets of water came down,
washing our ship from stem to stern. Consequently when we

PEMBA BAY AND PORT AMELIE.

awakened, about six o'clock, the elements having composed
themselves, the air was cool and clean, for which I assure you one
is most grateful. A difference of two degrees in these tropical
regions relieves the insupportable heat to a great extent. Mr.
Massersmith, the first officer, tells me I must watch the approach
to the harbour, as it is very pretty. I follow his advice, camera
and glasses in hand. Across a beautiful bay with water like a
F 8 1

A Woman's Winter in Africa

mirror Port Amelie is reached, named after that charming Queen
who till recently ornamented the throne of Portugal.

This port could be made into one of the finest harbours in the
world by reason of its natural advantages. The large bay is sur-
rounded with wooded heights through which wander an abundance
of game of all kinds. Lions and leopards one hears the most of. In
the transparent water one sees many fish with long snouts, resem-
bling our pike ; they dart about , their fins, tail, and a long streak on
the under part flashing iridescent blue and silver. Ships drawing the
greatest amount of water have it their own way here, on account
of the depth. Our own vessel, the Markgraff, anchors within 150
feet of the shore. In time to come, when the railway is completed
to Nyasaland, through the rich hinterland, Port Amelie should
become one of the richest ports, with undoubtedly the finest
harbour on the entire East African coast.

Unfortunately, under the Portuguese Government, with all its
cross-purposing dissensions between Royalists and Republicans,
also the natural sloth of the people strengthened by the disad-
vantages of climate, the country is allowed to remain in its
primitive state. A great quantity of fine tobacco is grown in
the interior, and has to be carried down for shipment, on the
heads or backs of natives. Thus they lose three weeks or more
before reaching the port. It is hoped that before long the rich
Nyasaland Company will take matters into their own hands, build
the railway, and open up the country for immigration.

From the steamer a collection of one-storeyed, wide, squatty
houses, red topped and mostly with blue stuccoed walls, shows a
rather pretty village. Trees of mango and baobab give a restful
shelter from the intense blueness of sky and water. From the top
of the green-topped hill, which is rather a struggle to climb,
especially at 11.30 on one of their summer days, a fine view is
obtained. I walked up the one and only broad red road, the
perspiration dripping from my forehead and falling like tears on
my veil. I wore a cork helmet, and carried a pongee sunshade
lined with green, which is more than useful here. Eventually
arriving on the summit of the hill, one has a charming view of
sea on both sides.

I discovered the Governor's house, and it could not be
railed a palace, even with the greatest wish to please ! A sort
of dry garden, laid out in what should have been flowerbeds, was

Portuguese Nyasaland

terraced with upstanding timber. A building in stucco with a flag-
pole and pennant waving marked the official residence oi lid'.,
the Governor, Moto Deas. Alongside, the most imposing buildings

in the place were the two-storeyed offices, in vivid blue, ol the
Nyasaland Company. Nyasaland is the only country boast-
ing a giraffe on its postage stamps. Across the way. a small but
well-kept house was the headquarters for the Commandanl of the
Army. The soldiers are recruited from the natives, and the
Genera] is Goanese. His huge sentry-box, considering the small-
ness and primitiveness of this village in the making, struck me as
ostentatious. Next to his house is the hospital. It has very little
accommodation, but a splendid view. After conquering the
piece de resistance, the hill, 1 turned my attention to the
houses, shops, and offices, which straggle along the sand.

Under a baobab or cream of tartar tree about twenty or thirty jet-
black natives were having a discussion. As they stared at me 1
halted to give them the full benefit, and meanwhile I took mine.
Idle different fashions of doing their wool would have puzzled our
most noted hairdressers in Bond Street. Their ears, both top and
bottom, were threaded with bits of green wood, beads, and all
sorts of gewgaws. The native to whom 1 awarded the palm for
originality, besides having a band of tin in his hair, also wore a
long celluloid comb, quite eight inches in length, of vivid pink
colour, This protruding from each side of his head certainly
distinguished him for chic and taste.

He, ever alert for business, racked his brain how he could acquire
silver from the wandering Englishwoman, and at length lie
produced two large rhino tusks from under his rags, which I bought
for a shilling. With this he was more than content, following me
about producing various bits of rubbish. To keep change in these
constantly changing ports is a puzzle. What with the English,
German, Indian, and Portuguese money, one is almost distracted.

Through the courtesy of the agent of the D.O.A.L., Mr. Burggraf,
I went ashore in his boat. Six men rowed with great vigour,
wearing khaki and tam-o'-shanter caps. As they beach their
boats they wade out, two of them place you upon their shoulders
and carry you through the shallow water, thus saving you wet feet.
Not being accustomed to this mode of travel, I overbalanced
myself in some unaccountable way, and had to grip the necks of
my carriers to keep from falling. Coming back, however, I

«3

A Woman's Winter in Africa

managed quite gracefully. The men have a different manner of
disembarkation ; they straddle the boys' shoulders, sitting up-
right. These natives, instead of smoking cigarettes as we do, put the
lighted end in the mouth, seeming to enjoy it most in that fashion.
Likewise, if you beckon to a native he runs the other
way, and if you motion him to go quickly he at once abates his
pace ; in fact, he understands exactly the opposite to what one
intends. A lady from Mashonaland relates this stupidity of one
of her boys. A new one came, and she told him to fill the tea-
kettle. He had never seen one before, and, after some time had

IVORY DEALERS, TORT AMELIE.

expired, upon inquiry she found him trying to pour water into the
spout of it, not realizing that the lid came oh ! I passed the house
of a priest, a Portuguese, who had been excommunicated from
the Roman Church. He has established himself here, and is doing
good work in teaching poor children.

I enter the queerest shop I have ever seen to change money.
My English pound brought me 5000 reis. The woman, who kept a
weird collection of merchandise, was Luda Yilna, a Portuguese,
and widow of a captain. She had a pleasant dark face, and
possessed quite a good pug dog. She pointed to it and said,
" Ingleterra." We both smiled, and an acquaintance was begun,

Portuguese Nyasaland

I thinking oi my dear black pug so far away in London. I asked
for postcards, not expecting to find them, Imt a box was handed
down, and contained an assortment of beautiful painted ladies
showing white teeth, and having roses in their hair. A rare one
was a man's thumb and forefinger holding a glass, through which
a woman's face was reflected. As this style of art did not appeal
to me, I motioned to the sea. She nodded, and gesticulating to a
boy, placed a chair and fan at my disposal, then held up her hand.

I understood f was to wait, and while doing so naturally my eyes
took in various details. Along the back of this general-provider
store ran shelves filled with all kinds of spirits and eatables.
In the centre stood a dilapidated billiard-table, scarcely
able to stand alone, its sides having disappeared entirely ; but
still it spoke of former grandeur. One wonders how it drifted to
this out-of-the-way shop. On a shelf, high up near the ceiling, was
crockery — plates, cups, and saucers — also washbowls and jugs.
Under this was a marble table, very dirty, with some broken pens
and writing materials which did not invite correspondence. Then
Madame shows me her dining-room. It is an hotel of a pioneer.
The table is laid with the most crude and coarse furnishings, and
a faded patched punkah hangs above it. All this is most intensely
interesting to her, and sometimes when f murmur the word
' good " she understands, and appreciates my compliment.

The boy has returned with another box, and in it I find a lew
really good photographs of the place. 1 have to pay 8d. each for
the cards ; but considering the trouble and cost of production, I
do not think them expensive. This ended my unconventional call,
much to the regret of Madame, who rarely sees one of her own sex.
I am informed that there are only five white men at Port
Amelie. Mr. Beste, who is head of the immigration, and from
whose house a Union Jack is floating, has six men working
under him. They find natives for the Witwatersrand Native
Labour Association — -that is, boys who are sent to the Transvaal
to work in the mines. We have about a hundred on our ship. I
am told that the company get one pound a head, which seems to
me to have a close connection with the slavery days which pre-
viously flourished so successfully along these shores. Dr. Bostock,
Mr. Reed, and Mr. Begg complete the wdiite population, but the
European feminine sex is entirely absent.

A mine-manager from Johannesburg, to whom I told my

A Woman's Winter in Africa

opinion about the transportation of these boys, indignantly
denies the idea of slavery. He says : " Nothing of the kind, Mrs.
Cameron. Those boys are in no way slaves. They are well
housed and fed free, their wages varying from £2 5s. to £8 a
month." I agree that it in no way hurts the native to work.

Leopards frequently are seen close to the shore, many goats
being stolen. Lions also make their appearance, and a few months
ago an enormous man-eater came over the hills, attacked a native
woman and child, and ate them. The next building was a garage ;
the door being open and a large motor-car inside, my curiosity
compelled me to enter — for to find an up-to-date 40-h.p. Dietrich car
in. this place where there are practically no roads was a real surprise.

Before I had time to investigate this phenomenon a man
came upon the scene ; I was astounded when he addressed me in
English. He proved to be a Mr. Begg from Inverness. Both
bearing Scotch names we immediately claimed together. He said
he was delighted to speak English again, and described Port
Ann' lie as desolation itself. He was under contract with the
Governor to remain three years, and had brought the motor-car
out for the roadless country. They intended to undertake the
construction of a road from this port to Nyasa Lake, but after
being here a year only three miles of road had been completed.
There is really no enterprise in the country. He had his home in
the large garage, and showed me a Gatling gun stored there dating
from 1879 ; but the wheels of it had been almost destroyed by
white ants.

Tentatively he asked me if I would like to see his mode
of living, and as life in different phases interests me, I
willingly agreed. Back of the garage were two rooms. In
the eating-room a table standing in wet tins, to keep ants from
climbing up its legs, was covered with a Scotch rug of the McLean
tartan. On a shelf were a few magazines and books, which he
assured me had been read several times over. I promised to send
him some magazines from the ship, and did so on my return. In
describing his manner of living he told me that it was most
difficult to get food. Once a week a man brings a petition, and if
enough people sign it a goat is killed, if not they have to go without.
He confided to me that he had ordered two pounds of goat for
Sunday, though dubious if he should obtain it.

The bay is full of fish, but the boys are lazy ; consequently one

Portuguese Nyasaland

cannot depend upon them for supplies. Vegetables are nil. A good-
sized lowl may be obtained for 100 reis 5<1., a smaller for 2d.
Eggs they had in plenty, and they cosl a penny for two. I [e showed
me the frying-pan, in which reposed two fish looking like soles.
"This is my lunch," he laughed. "And will you see my kitchen ? "
1 fdl lowed him into his compound, and there in a corner, constructed
out of bamboo and thatched with palms, stood a chicken house,
attached to which was his bath — crude indeed. He had to catch
rain water to fill it. Next door was what no one would have
believed to be a kitchen, but it acted the part with impunity. The

MAIN STREET, TORT AMELIE

drinking water had to be brought every morning from the hills.
They have wells, but their contents are quite salt to the taste. He
complained that natives stole his chickens, and with great pride
showed me a small garden where he was trying to grow pumpkins.
Truly life under such circumstances is trying !

A Portuguese Major came on board, and when one of the
passengers unthinkingly said that the country would become
more prosperous under either German or English rule, the Major
became infuriated, exclaiming, " Never, never ! ' He banged his
fists upon the table, left his meal untasted, and went out on deck !

Close by lies the island of Ibo, another fort, star-shaped in this
case. It was built in 1791, which fact the inscription on the gate

A Woman's Winter in Africa

announces. This town was also a great rendezvous of the slave-
dealer, who waxed rich on his human harvests. Twenty years
ago slavery existed here ; now, although Portuguese, it is under
charter to the mighty Nyasa Company.

Through the information of Mr. Oldenburg, who has for twenty
years made his home here, I learn that in many houses slavery
still continues, although not publicly. The families keep the
children of their former slaves now by law liberated ; and, although
they receive no pay, they are carefully taken care of and given
clothes. Many of them have adopted European blouses, and wear
gay-coloured scarves around their heads. Ibo lies quite a distance
from our anchorage, and we have to pay iooo reis or 4s. for the boat-
man there and back. In almost every place one goes ashore in the
boat of the D.O.A. Line, which is preferable to any other, mainly be-
cause thei r boats are the best , quite safe , and generally charge nothing .

The Governor has a residence here, and is at present on the
island. The hopes of the people are centred upon rumours of a
projected railway between Pemba Bay and the great Nyasa Lake,
which, if ever accomplished, will benefit the country to an enormous
extent. There are many small coral reef islands dotted about,
of no special value, called Kereimba Islands. From Ibo "it is
roughly one hour to the mainland. The supply of fish is abundant ;
in fact, a great number are exported by Indian dealers to Bombay.
There is no hotel of any kind, but Mr. Oldenburg assures me that
any stranger arriving is given a hearty welcome and becomes a guest
of the different citizens, who do all that is possible in his honour.

There is a German, French, Spanish, and Belgian Consul at
Ibo, but no English, which seemed to me strange ; but as we have
a Consul at Port Amelie, a few hours distant, I presume this
gentleman acts for both places. One disagreeable thing about
the Portuguese law here is that both white and black have equal
rights. This is naturally much deplored by the white man, there
being 2500 natives and only fifty white.

The rainy season, January to April, is more efficient than in
some of the neighbouring places, and sufficient when it comes to
enable the inhabitants to produce a variety of fresh vegetables.
Cucumbers grow wild here, and I am told are better flavoured
than those at home. Ibo and Inhambane are considered the
healthiest spots on the Portuguese Coast. The method of travel-
ling here is in the picturesque machilla.

CHAPTER XIV

Mozambique

A SMALL island has a tall yellow lighthouse which signals
our approach to the ancient and official capital of the Portu-
guese. It recalls the adventurous discoveries of da Gama, for his
eyes first beheld the green-wooded shores of the East African
coast. Mozambique began life as simply a ring of coral reef, but
as time progressed through a development of nature earth filtered
in and made the island a mile and a half long and about a mile
wide. The climate is excessively hot, but it must be taken into con-
sideration that it was in the month of January that I landed — on
the 25th. This is one of their hottest periods ; it seemed well-nigh
unbearable, especially in going over the mediaeval fort. The
mainland is close by, rising in misty heights of blue. They had
a small revolution the day before I arrived, and I watched
an old slave dhow being filled with the mutineers. They
were to be conveyed to the hinterland and detained.
The prisoners wore chains, gang after gang being hooked
together.

Having commenced with prisoners and slaves I may as well go
on with them. Mozambique is the penal settlement of Portugal.
Here are sent not only the ne'er-do-wells of Portugal, but also from
far-off Macao in China, and Dongola, a Portuguese possession of
the West Coast — all transfer their convicts to this spot. At any
rate, they need never complain of the cold ! Very little rain falls.
Typhoons, however, frequently pay visits, with disastrous results.
If these convicts have friends or relatives who will pay a small
sum to the Government, they can be liberated and wander at will
over the island. This only occurs, naturally, if a prisoner is well-
behaved and law-abiding. Some of them have started little shops
—others do housework. A lady I knew had an excellent convict
cook who had killed two men. The butler of the Oriental Club,
the only one in Mozambique, was also a murderer. Upon going
over the prison 1 thought the faces of the convicts were most

A Woman's Winter in Africa

terrible — murder and villainy of every kind were stamped upon
their horrid countenances.

The Eastern Telegraph Company have a prominent office here ;
nearly all their errand boys are recruited from convicts, likewise
the postmen. They wear dark blue uniforms with their number
embroidered in red. I met several when driving in a rickshaw
along the clean and fairly well-paved streets. They also do the
menial labour of the hospital, which is a fine building for a small
place, facing the sea. Although Mozambique is said to be un-
healthy in regard to malarial fever, the residents assert that it is
quite as habitable as other towns on the coast. There is no sani-
tation whatever ; buckets take the place of sewers, and are
dumped into the sea at night. Electric light has not as yet made
its appearance, paraffin lamps illuminating the houses and streets.
Rickshaws are the only mode of conveyance, none being public.
Each family has its own, drawn by the blackest of negroes, whose
skins shine in the broiling sun as the water drips off them. Only
cocoanut palms, a sort of gum tree, and acacias grow in the
parched soil, for the rainfall is very slight and seldom. The rain
is carefully gathered on the cemented roofs, built specially for
the purpose, and conducted to underground cisterns ; every morn-
ing the boys pump enough water for the household to last the
day. As glass is very expensive in this far-away island, most of
the Indian houses have wooden shutters half-way up to cover the
windows, the top part being filled in with the beautiful shells for
which Mozambique is famous.

Religion is well observed in this restricted area, there being
no less than four Roman Catholic churches, and an Indian
Mohammedan house of worship. The mixed population amounts
to about 9000 people. Of the white men, about eight are
employed by the Eastern Telegraph Company. The various
Consuls and firms perhaps number twenty white men all included.
Of the feminine gender only three European women live at Mozam-
bique—my friend Mrs. Marcus, wife of the German Consul, and
two French ladies, wives of traders. These latter, my friend tells
me, rarely go out, therefore there are no gossipy teas on this
island.

Housekeeping is done by the boy cook, who goes to the
market and buys what he can. There is an abundance of fine
fish in the harbour, which is nearly always obtainable, but all other

<
2

A Woman's Winter in Africa

provisions have to be brought in by boats from the mainland. If
stormy the boats cannot cross ; then the cook returns with empty
baskets, and Madame is obliged to resort to her pantry for her
tinned stock, which every practical housekeeper learns to ap-
preciate. She always keeps a large reserve in consideration of the
changeable markets.

Mozambique exports ivory, ebony, oil seeds, amber, rubber,
and a few pearls. The pearls are beautiful in colour — pink,
brown, and yellow, but rarely white. They say these tints are
caused by the native fisher throwing the oyster into boiling water
in order to open the shell, thus causing the discoloration. Some
of these pearls I have seen mounted into very beautiful ornaments.
There are many tortoises in this part, whose shells are exported to
Germany. Mrs. Marcus kindly provided us with rickshaws, and
we went through the enormous native town to the Portuguese
cemetery, which was planned in 1879, and contains many hand-
some monuments. Sadly enough, many of these bear English
names.

A gum tree much resembling a banyan cast refreshing
shade, under which we rested looking down upon both arms of the
sea shimmering in the sunshine. Along the ocean side we watched
the dug-outs and fishers spearing for pearl oysters. Natives
carrying large trays of heaped-up cocoanuts on their heads passed
through the streets, and herds of goats rambled at will. It was so
hot that few people were about, preferring to lie low in their
thick-walled, two-roomed and palm-thatched huts.

Our next point of interest was the Fort of San Sebastian,
which dominates the harbour. It is over four hundred years old,
and in ancient days was impregnable. It was built entirely by
slaves. The whole of the stone was brought from Europe, by way
of the Cape. Can you picture those days ? I can, when I see these
old wooden dhows assemble around our ship for cargo, their huge
prows carved with figure-heads, and having one or two broad sails.
The hold, in which hundreds of slaves were battened down without
air, chained hand and foot for fear they would jump overboard !
What misery and torture they must have suffered ! Their burning
thirst would have been insupportable. With what hatred and
dread they regarded the dealer and his men when they appeared
in the native Tabora hinterland villages, and, surrounding them,
forced them by the power of steel to surrender and follow. One
92

Mozambique

meets many of these ancient dhows in every port along the coast.
What sad stories they could relate '

At the entrance ol the antiquated fort a stone tablet caugh.1
my eye, on which was inscribed : ' Vive la Republique. Oct.
5th, 1910." The touch of modernity contrasted strangely with
the historic pile erected here in 151 1 ! We entered, and came
upon an immense quadrangle painted yellow. The Portuguese
forbi 1 white paint on any of the buildings, thinkirg that white
intensifies the glare ; therefore blue, pink, red, and yellow houses

SPRINGBOK RESTING.

are seen everywhere. Our guide took us through the fort, but
there was nothing interesting or original. In the grilling heat we
humbly followed him to the top, where a dried-up garden struggled
to live on the high bastion walls.

A number of obsolete cannon and balls furnished a dreary
outlook, while the view was of no great importance. I do not
remember having ever felt the heat more than upon the shadowless
battlements of this most celebrated fortress in Portuguese history.
Descending we saw some of the convicts ; they wore heavy leg-
irons of primitive pattern. One I felt sorry for. He was a young
man with quite a nice face, and although shackled tried to read

A Woman's Winter in Africa

a paper. The rest looked more like baboons than men. One felt
they had arrived at their proper destination.

Having described the disagreeable features, I will now en-
deavour to show the pleasant side of life in Mozambique. Our
rickshaws stopped at the largest house — rest fully grey painted—
on the water front. It is the home of Mr. and Mrs.
Marcus. Mr. Marcus is the German Consul, and also one
of the heads of that well-known firm Wm. Philippi and Co.,
whose offices have been a familiar landmark from Mombasa
downward. Mrs. Marcus and her delightful baby were my fellow-
voyagers from Dar-es-Salaam. With her habitual kindness she
invited Captain Bremer, Mr. and Mrs. Henry, and myself to
luncheon, also most of the European men stationed here.

We were a merry party of fifteen at table. The luncheon was
served in charming style, with iced beverages, a large blue punkah,
pulled by a boy, giving a cool breeze. The party might be compared
with an Elysian feast after our sightseeing morning in a tempera-
ture verging on no degrees — that in the shade ! The house of Mr.
Marcus is several hundred years old, and was formerly a monastery ;
the walls are quite a yard in depth, keeping out the heat and glare.
The rooms were immense and very lofty. The staircase, with
curious carvings, was wide enough for the proverbial coach and
four. In the windows fine wire netting prevented mosquitoes from
penetrating — the insects are a great nuisance here. It was alto-
gether a very comfortable home— our host and hostess perfectly de-
lightful. For many years I shall carry that picture of Mozambique
hospitality in my heart. Everyone has been extremely kind
all along the coast. Sadly I regret that as a passer-by I can
in no way reciprocate unless some of these good friends come
to my own country.

Captain Bremer informed us that time was up, and he must
speed the Markgrofj across tropical blue. Reluctantly we said
adieu and left for the small boats. The embarkation is rather
curious. Water along the beach being shallow, two black boys
grab you, hoist you on their shoulders, and rush into the water,
carrying you dry-shod to your ship. If one is not accustomed to
this sort of riding one is liable to fall off. You must grip the negro
on the top of his head, rising and falling to his movement, as you
do when riding a horse ! On arriving we discovered some of the
passengers had bought lovely shells, lans in native work, starfish

Mozambique

of <lull drub striped with handsome red, and fine big fish look-
ing like salmon. A tinted sunset of pink and gold watch* s as out

of harbour as wo speed towards Reira.

The food on the Markgraff is all that could be desired, and the
attentions of Captain Bremer and his fust officer, Mr. Massersmith,
make us feel very welcome guests. I wish to add a note about the
delicious mango. How marvellous that Nature has perfected this
luscious fruit for the benefit of the ever-thirsty in such a warm
climate ! Our ship has 1200 mangoes on board ; we all enjoy them
iced, three times a day. I have never met anyone who failed to
appreciate this red-gold fruit, which you dig into with a spoon from
its dark emerald cup. Some say that a mango should be eaten in
a bath tub, but the usual way is to slice off two sides as near the
large stone as possible. Our first officer has taught us a better way.
Take a knife and cut the mango in a circular direction around the
middle as far as the stone. This done, twist the two halves like a
corkscrew, then the pieces are cleft and fall cleanly apart.

A special amusement on the Markgraff is at sundown to watch
the heterogeneous mixture of our three hundred deck passengers.
Every religion, colour, size, and condition can be seen, each living
its own life. For instance, two stoves with glowing embers light
up one side of the deck. These are for Hindoo and Mohammedan
to cook their food as religion and caste decide. A Chinaman
hurries along with a pail of water and a raw fish — this constituting
his repast. The Indians spread clean straw mats and sit about
cross-legged diving into pots of curry and rice with naked fingers.
Weak tea or water is their beverage. Some are clothed in a rag
or two, others wear rich raiment — all is life and bustle stimulated
by chatter and excitement. They laugh and sing, a few tunes are
struck upon peculiar stringed instruments — life is indeed very
merry. As the sun goes down every Mohammedan, gazing Mecca-
wards on bended knees, offers up his prayers to Mohammed the
Faithful.

DONT'S BY " IMP"

Don't waste time on this port.

Don't go ashore unless you have friends. There are no public
conveyances.

CHAPTER XV
Beira

I DEFY the most enthusiastic traveller to describe Beira as
beautiful, or even approaching beauty in any way. A first
impression is of a low-lying streak of sand upon which huddle
a lot of grey-looking buildings, protected by wide clinging
verandahs.

Beira is reached through the mouth of the rivers Pungwe and
Busi ; we have to engage the services of a pilot to guide us up to
this dreary-looking but important anchorage of Rhodesia. One
could imagine the late Right Hon. Cecil Rhodes, that truly colossal
organizer, after surveying the giant possibilities of Mashonaland and
Matabeleland, consulting his confreres and saying : ' The country
will not advance without a port. A couple of you go down to the
coast, look sharp, and see what you can do." And Beira, under
the charter of the Mozambique Company, was chosen to be the
outlet for the enormous exports of Southern Rhodesia and Manica-
land. It is said that soon it will act in like capacity for the rich
copper mines of the Congo.

I had been told I should encounter much anxiety and dis-
courtesy in passing my baggage at the Custom House ; that one
must pay duty on everything one brought ashore ; and especially
severe were the officers about cameras. I, having two rather good
ones, naturally felt apprehensive, but was agreeably surprised to
meet an official who was most polite, who passed my eight pieces,
and only asked me to open my dressing-case. If one believed all
that people tell one on board ship, one would indeed get into all
sorts of difficulties.

It was with real regret I said good-bye to Mr. and Mrs. Henry
when I left the Markgraff. We had been fellow-voyagers since
Port Said, and enjoyed the shore excursions together. They go
on to Durban, while " Imp " and I proceed a thousand miles inland.

The heat at Beira is cruel, intensified by the burning sand,
which oozes over and into your shoes as you plough your way

]

>eira

along, eventually arriving at the main street. There you find a
narrow elevated stone pavement, which you joyfully accept as a
blessing. I was told the Savoy Hotel was the best, and it being
quite a short distance I preferred to walk. A few stunted pine
trees cast fitful shade and, assisted by acacias and tall rank grass,
furnish the decorative verdure for these streets. On each side are
one- and sometimes two-storeyed shops built of corrugated iron ;
in fact, that unattractive material absolutely rules this place.

■iL^^'t

NATIVE HOMES.

You see it everywhere — buildings, fences, in new and dilapidated
conditions. One ponders on the fortunes which must have accrued
from this useful material.

I glance into the shops. General merchandise prevails. Yellow-
boots, shoe strings, tin trunks, fancy calico to suit Kaffir taste,
biscuits, and inferior whisky make up the contents of these small
emporiums. In all my travels, which include most places on the
globe, 1 have never remarked so many bars. At every two doors
one encounters signs proclaiming only pure drink is served, and

G 97

A Woman's Winter in Africa

the different names of the bars, Imperial, Carlton, and so on,
suggest that every one^possesses a famous cognomen.

Along the centre of the weird streets runs a narrow-gauge tram-
line, and in no other part of the world have I seen this method of
transit. A ghari, which resembles a half-cut wooden garden seat,
holding two instead of the usual four, and mounted on small
wheels, is lifted on to the track. To protect the head a rickshaw
hood is arranged ; two people seat themselves and two negroes
push it along quickly. A rickshaw-trolley would be a m re
appropriate name for these conveyances.

I arrive at the hotel, and find a large and lofty building with
verandahs around the entire house. The rooms are clean, com-
fortably furnished, and spacious. The halls and sitting-rooms are
cool ; in the latter, to my intense joy, I found a really good selection
of papers and pictorials which every traveller who has lost track
of home news welcomes with gratitude. Mr. and Mrs. Ellis are the
proprietors of this up-to-date house, and do all in their power to
increase the comfort of their guests. Many distinguished travellers
have made a sojourn here, among them the Duchesse d'Aosta,
that Princess who gained such popularity on account of her
philanthropic work as the Royal nurse during the Italian war with
Tripoli, and is also renowned as a traveller and big-game shot.
Other prominent visitors have been Earl Grey and Lord Milner.

The charges rt the Savoy vary from 15s. to 25s. per day, in
accordance with the situation of the rooms. The custom of this
hotel is to send up tea at 5 a.m. To Europeans it seems rather
early, but if you know your Beira you will soon be glad to
get up when it is yet cool and the mosquitoes are quiescent. At
eight there is served a breakfast, which I never took, because at
11.30 the lunch-breakfast is partaken of, after which, it being
unbearably hot, everyone has a siesta until awakened by a boy
bringing tea at three. More bathing and dressing, and about
five you order your private trolley to be affixed to the rails and cff
you go. There are no public trolleys. At the hotel they have six,
which one can hire, otherwise one would have to depend upon the
generous instincts of friends to lend theirs. There is a really fine
golf course, which attracts many, and one can rely upon a cool
breeze blowing late in the afternoon.

The trolleys conduct you two routes only. One is to the beach
of Ponto Je, where it is pleasant to sit on the fine sand and watch

W
O

p-1

A Woman's Winter in Africa

the sunset ; the other takes you four or five miles into the country.
The beauty of the glossy-leaved cocoanut palms en route is
dimmed by the malignant mangrove swamps through which you
must pass ; and as you look down into the dark mud and figure
to yourself how many trillions of anopheline mosquitoes are born
nightly, whose sole ambition is to plant malarial germs in human
flesh, you long for cooler climes.

They tell me that great improvements in sanitation have taken
place at Beira in recent times, but if the authorities would only
take a leaf from the book of hygienic precautions which the
Americans at Panama have so efficiently tested, by simply the
lavish use of crude oil, fever and mosquitoes would eventually be
wiped out here as effectually as in that giant waterway — another
wonder of the world about to be opened. Two years ago I
travelled extensively in South America, and through the kind
courtesy of Colonel Goethals, the chief of the executive of the
Canal Zone, I had the good fortune to motor along the entire
route ; and no traveller can resist giving vent to enthusiastic
praise when it is seen how the Americans have transformed
Panama from one of the most deadly unhealthy places the world
has ever known to a tropical resort which, from a health point of
view, leaves nothing to be desired.

Dinner is at 7.30. The large dining-room is cool ; one is waited
on by black boys in white linen, and the food is always good. In
1 1 lis. country, where one is ever thirsty, the scale of prices for
liquid refreshment is at first startling. No drink is less than one
shilling, even for the humble lemon squash. Frequently there are
neither lemons nor limes, and the supply of ice is also occasionally
exhausted. Then you order a soda with a dash of lime juice from
the bottle, but the cheque you sign is for the eternal shilling. A
glass of beer is the same price. For whisky and soda is. 6d. is
charged. In looking over the wine list I find that the Portuguese
wine Serradayres, in both red and white, can be obtained for 3s.
a bottle ; and it is excellent for an ordinary wine, proving quite
a blessing. Mrs. Ellis tells me that the wine of Portugal is admitU d
to this country free, while on spirits the duty is high. She also
confided that they pay £200 a month rent for the hotel, that all
food-stuff is very clear, and in many cases impossible to obtain ;
therefore they are obliged to import much in the way of tinned
food from Europe, which of course at this distance is most expensive.
100

Beira

A few years ago there was a greal land boom in Beira, and
speculators rushed in, buying plots with dreams of selling to
advantage. Hie boom passed, as the vacant land, overgrown with
rank salt grass, bears witness. Burns says, " The best-laid

schemes o' mice and men gang alt a-gley."

There is very little social gaiety at Beira. The Englishmen
meet at their club, and the Gremio dos Empregadoz de .Mozam-
bique, which has a prettily situated club house, is much patronized
by the Portuguese. The Governor has a rather tine house and
garden, where lie entertains frequently. At present, counting up
the houses that are exempt from the everlasting tin, there are only
about six buildings in all Beira built of the more substantial brick.

Obviously Carnival tills a prominent place here, as I saw si^ns
of fancy dress and masks exhibited as the foremost attractions in
the shop windows. From June till September the climate is ideal,
and Beira is quickly achieving a reputation as a pleasant place in
which to spend a holiday by the inhabitants of Rhodesia who
have neither time nor inclination to go further afield.

Now it is their hottest season, and very trying. What with the
heat and the mosquitoes, life becomes a misery. The Zambesi
Express to Salisbury and Victoria Falls leaves Beira three times
a week ; as I have just missed my connection I am obliged to
wait here four whole days, which 1 exceedingly regret — the time
might have been passed to greater advantage. Last night I found
an ideal spot on a ten ace built out to the sea from my hotel. There
was a moon which mercifully shielded the dilapidated tin abhor-
rences, and from my elevated position I looked int< i the back garden
of the hotel. The aridncss was covered, and in the light and
shadow it appeared quite lovely. I congratulated myself and
soliloquized : If I had to live at Beira I should sleep all through
the hot day and live in the garden by night. But being a tender-
foot my calculation fell instantly. I counted without my host,
so to speak, and forgot His Majesty Mosquito, who rules here—
I must use the old formula- ' not wisely, but too well." He was
furious, as he had not dined, and he and his relations, who wen'
innumerable, fastened themselves upon me.

Result : This morning, as I regard myself in the mirror, with
the vivid embroidery on arms and chest worked by Phcebus at Dar-
es-Salaam and the bumpy bites left by His Ruling Highness and
family at their last night's carnival, I am sure I should be at once

IOI

A Woman's Winter in Africa

exhibited if a Freak Museum existed in these parts. I told " Imp "
I wished I were a spirit like him instead of a mortal clothed in
eatable flesh. But " Imp " is never sympathetic. After luring
me out here he says : " Well, you're seeing things, and going to the
Great Falls ! ' " Not only seeing, ' Imp,' I protest, ' but
feeling things as well ! "

I have been introduced to a few British residents who are
connected with the banks and the Mozambique Company, and
they drop in after dinner for a chat. We exchange views on home
life, politics, literature, and the stage. I tell them all about the
Imperial Durbar at Delhi last year, which I had the opportunity to
attend as I represented several journals, and wrote a novel based
upon that historic occasion. They in their turn relate stories of
interesting adventures through which they have passed in this
wonderful vast land — the Eldorado of the future.

Mr. Duncan, of the Standard Bank, for a holiday elected to
camp with friends near the Golden Valley and on the banks of the
Sanyati River. He started off with a native servant and three dogs
to procure something cookable for the party. Unfortunately he
lost his way, wandering along the banks of the river quite three
miles away. He kept walking until midnight, when hungry and
exhausted he shot a guinea-fowl, cooked and ate it for his supper.
He fired the usual distress signal — two shots in quick succession
—but there was no response. Being tired, and not knowing his
whereabouts, he made his boy cut some grass, and, throwing
himself upon his crude bed, was soon fast asleep. His sleep,
however, was destined to be short, for he was awakened by his boy
violently shaking him and shouting breathlessly, " Vuka, Bass '
" Wake up, Sir,"- -" nanzi ingonna '; ' There is a lion ! "

It was a dark night, and when Mr. Duncan opened his eyes he
saw, not twenty yards off, three lions with six luminous eyes fixed
upon him. Meantime they were uttering low guttural grunts with
internal mutterings. The dogs, deceived by an opposite wind,
which swept away the scent, rushed out, but hastened back
instantly, pursued by a lion. The dogs were terrified, their hair
standing on end. Mr. Duncan, with quick forethought, set
alight his grass bed, springing behind the blaze, whereupon
the three lions, grumbling, retired a little farther back, still
keeping watch, though they dared not approach the fire. He
then discovered a tree, which he promptly climbed, and hauled

102

o
o

A Woman's Winter in Africa

his native up after him, the dogs whining at the foot of the
trunk. Meanwhile the lions reassembled, and kept an unweary-
ing watch upon the tree, never ceasing their weird hunting
grunt.

The gentleman having only five cartridges left dared not
waste any, fearing further emergencies. Thus man and beast
waited until dawn, when the three lions strode slowly away into
the forest. After waiting till he was assured the man-eaters had
really departed he found his way back to camp, and his friends
regaled him with their experience of the night. They had heard
a lion attack a baboon from across the river, which was only
a stone's throw from them. They were obliged to listen to the
baboon's barks of distress and afterwards to the crunching of the
bones, accompanied for a short time by its agonized cries, which
closely resembled those of the human voice. My friend once saw
about three hundred baboons assemble on Sable Hill. A short
time ago a lion crouching on the railway lines fifty miles from
Beira was run over, and a lion has been seen only five miles from
Beira. The whole country is full of game.

Unsuccessfully I have sought for curios in the different shops.
One would think that skins, tusks, and Kaffir work would find a
sale, but up to the present I have been disappointed.

The Queen's Hotel, which is only a few yards away, was for
many years the only hotel in Beira. Prices range from ios. 6d. per
day. Furthermore, at the Savoy, the quality is unquestionable.
The various bottles bear the well-reputed name of Fortum and
Mason, and one reasons that to have the best in the circumstances
is the better policy.

A peculiarity of Beira is the ever-present bugle call from the
barracks. One would think a big army was quartered near by,
and that war had been declared. The prestige of Europe is well
maintained, as there are iooo residents against 4000 natives,
which is a much higher average than in many of'the ports I have
visited. The rainfall at Beira is limited, and when a drought
arrives the question of water supply becomes a serious matter.
As in most of these towns, the water is collected from the roofs
and runs clown into huge tanks ; for instance, at the Savoy
Hotel, where they really do try to give one as much luxury as
possible, the baths are of salt water, and very salt it is ; and in a
climate like this, where one would like to bathe twice a clay, it is

104

Beira

a serious drawback. Bougainvillaea flourishes exceedingly well,
but has no rivals, as there is a dearth of flowers.

I must not forget to mention that on the way to the beach
one passes an ugly bull ring, constructed of the ubiquitous corru-
gated iron, and painted a suitable blood-red. The bull-fights here

S.S. 'ELEONORE UOERMANN.

are tame, they complain ; they follow the Portuguese rule, the
bulls being tortured but not killed.

1 was very much amused by a remark of Mrs. Ellis. She said :

I don't know why it is, but of all the writers who come to Beira

not one has a good word to say about it, while we think it's not at

all a bad place." Mrs. Ellis and her family have lived here for

sixteen years — and " there is no place like home."

DONTS BY " IMP"

Don't stay more than a few days at Beira ; what with the damp,
heat, and the mosquitoes, you will have had enough.

105

CHAPTER XVI

Beira — Train Journey to Victoria Falls

I ENTER the Mail Express of the Beira and Mashonaland and
Rhodesia Railway (that's the way they put it), and Mr. King,
the chief clerk, has kindly arranged every detail for my convenience
and comfort. I arrive at the station feeling rather forlorn, for,
after all, " Imp " is not much company, and to my surprise I am
received, so to speak, as a persona gvatx.

" Oh, we know of you, Mrs. Cameron ; your compartment is
reserved, and we trust you will have a very pleasant journey."

I feel rather like a child going through the joys of a surprise
party, because I really experience a sense of loneliness in invad-
ing Rhodesia and advancing nearly a thousand miles towards
the Victoria Falls, which are situated almost in the middle
of Africa.

The train starts at once. My ticket to the Falls includes my
stopping anywhere I will, and amounts to £11 18s. o,d. single, not
return ! The carriages are most comfortable, with upper and
lower berths. They are wainscoted in yellow oak, with a wash-
stand and latest improvements in nickel plate. A large mirror
hangs over this, and the top forms a most convenient table, on
which I am now writing. There is electric light, enabling you to
read without straining your eyes, and plenty of hooks are handy
on which to hang clothing. The Metropolitan Amalgamated
Railway Carriage and Waggon Co., Ltd. (a long enough name,
surely), has been responsible for the building of these coaches in
Manchester.

After leaving Beira the country is flat, and we pass many
cocoanut plantations of large dimensions. I regret that I was
unable to visit that titanic sugar plantation at Lusitana, some
twenty miles from Beira. It consists of 300,000 hectares, and
employs 30,000 natives. They told me that as Mr. Alfred Lawley,
the manager, was in Europe, they were not showing this estate,
which is considered to be perhaps the finest in Africa.

106

Beira

Leaving the station punctually to the moment, we pass through
natural pasture lands, well wooded. It being the dry season there
is a great deal of dust, as there would be at home travelling in the
summer. We enter a jungle, through which a red trailing shrub,
casting decorative festoons; makes a trellis-work from tree to tree
Round Kaffir kraals, with thatched palm-leaf roofs, are clustered
about with vines, and as it is late in the afternoon the Kaffirs have
lighted a lire under their black iron pots and sit cross-legged
watching the evening meal being cooked. There appears to be no
hurry on this railway line. We stop first at a jungle, which is
cither glorified or detracted by a tin building, and answers to
tie; appellation of Dondo. I do not know if this spot is supposed to
bs exhilarating or not, but we stop, presumably to give a drink
to our engine, and also to enable the natives to sell pineapples.
They bring them along, strung on a pole. I find them rather
small, and not having the delicious flavour of the West indies
fruit.

With a sudden jolt we pass through a jungle so dense with
shielding, secreting lianes that its mysteries are impenetrable.
Here the lion and big game generally will be wandering in search
of a piece de resistance in the shape of a nice young zebra or some
other toothsome morsel. The sunset flings out two huge weird
wings of cloud, and it looks as if they attached themselves to guard
an enormous sacrificial altar reminiscent of Egyptian times. These
wings devour the sun and separate, reappearing dressed in purple
and lined with gold. We cross a pretty river, and arrive at Ponte
do Pungue, whose importance, as far as one can see, consists of
four tin establishments, some goats, and very thin, evildooking
cats. Certainly " Nestle's Cream ' has played no part in the
existence of the latter. Now the Orb of Day bids good night and
sinks behind a golden blaze, crimson cloud curtains drape the
horizon, and the dining-car attendant announces ' Dinner is
served."

The dining-car, built in England, is much the same as our own.
Electric fans and lights add to our comfort ; the waiters are
exceedingly polite, attending to your every want. Pretty flowers
in silver vases give a homelike touch. Here is the menu, and
considering the difficulties of procuring and cooking food-stuffs,
it is excellent, while the price, 3s. 6d., cannot be called
extortionate.

107

A Woman's Winter in Africa

MENU.

Beira and Mashonaland and Rhodesia Railway Refreshment

Department.
Breakfast, 2s. 6d. Luncheon, 3s. Dinner, 3s. 6d

Soup.

Consomme Pate d'ltalienne.

Fish.

Baked Mullet — sauce Maitre d'Hotel.

Entrees.

Braised Ox Heart,

Green Peas.

Joints.

Roast Sirloin, horse-radish sauce.

Leg of Mutton, red currant jelly.

Roast chicken and sausage.

Boiled potatoes and cabbage.

Rice pudding. Biscuits and cheese. Coffee.

Lhe food is very fair, but my thoughts revert to the
wonderful cuisine of the Lrain d? Luxe going to the Riviera,
and to the restaurant at the Calais terminus, where the
roast chicken, cooked by French culinary artists, is tender and
succulent. Here the fowls are flavourless and their bones fleshless.
I do not for an instant complain, if one always had as good one
would be fortunate ; but as I am writing this book without any
interest or commission from anyone I shall endeavour to chronicle
absolutely things as I find them. It is a pity to spoil good food
in preparation. I am the only woman on the train, and at my
table were three Portuguese. Lheir few words of English were
polite, also their manners. I recall my grandmother's maxim, which,
having been impressed on my brain at a youthful stage, always
dwells in my memory. She was a great traveller for her times.
Her admonition was : " Remember, my child, whenever you
travel you are an unpaid ambassador to your country, so never
miss a chance to advance our prestige and honour." My Sprite
of Travel, ' Imp," impertinently answers that this was good
advice.

Now the night is terribly dark, and finds " Imp " and myself
speeding into the heart of Rhodesia. I complain to " Imp " :
" It's a long way from home, and the solitude is gloomy." But

108

Be-ira

Imp," as usual, chastises me by saying: " Are you not glad that
you have not a lot of people to dinner in London, to whom you
must display your best linen and silver, fuss about arranging
flowers, and so forth? You said you were tired of friends and
Society." " Yes, but, ' Imp,' 1 certify, " I had perhaps been
doing a little too much. This is solitude indeed." ' I know one
time you said to me," continues " Imp," ' you were weary of
listening to the complaints of dissatisfied married women. ( )ne had
a husband who she feared was not faithful, and she asked your
advice about having him followed by a private detective. Another
friend of yours was tortured by the jealousies of her Benedict :
some wanted charity, and they poured out their troubles to you.
You were bored — surely this is better, seeing God's country."
" One thing, my ' Imp of Travel,' 1 never am able to please you,
even though I risk my life for your sake," I mournfully add.
" You're rather weak, and I don't know what you would do
without me," lamented my phlegmatic emissary.

The egoism of " Imp " is detestable. I refuse to listen further,
and gaze out into the black night.

Through the murkiness a wonderful cinematograph rushes
past, which I intently stare at through the two-yard-square
window-pane of my compartment. The moon condescends to
appear, rudely pushing past stately silver clouds. Queer, uncanny
cries of animals and birds drift through my sleepy brain. Some
bird pours forth lovely roulades, interrupted by the croak of
countless frogs. One thinks of the wild animals — the hartebeest,
eland, buffalo, leopard, zebra, and lion -who may be wandering
out there in the thick jungle. At five the next morning we pass
through a beautiful forest with enormous quantities of flowers of
all colours ; but the most remarkable is tree after tree covered
with red and white lilies which resemble those of the Japanese
Arum family. I cannot quite distinguish if this is a vine of lilies
acting as a parasite to the tree or if the flower belongs to the tree
itself ; at any rate, the effect remains charming. As the mist
clears well-wooded mountains come into view, and the sun, from
a horizon of gold, ushers in another day.

About 5.30 we reach the small and pretty station of Macequece.
Here amongst gardens of roses I can see the lily I describe, and
find it grows on bushes and trees of its own, and refutes the idea
of being a parasite. At Macequece we enter the mountains of

109

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Manicaland. About here, rumour states, was the ancient site of
the Land of Ophir. Perhaps 3000 years ago Solomon, King of
Israel, drew the supplies of gold from this land with which he
dazzled the Queen of Sheba. Herodotus hands down descriptions
of the sacred images, some of them in solid gold, forty feet high,
and various sacred emblems which received universal admiration
during the reign of Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon. The
precious gold of those wealthy times was known to be found in
Africa.

Through the discoveries of Dr. Carl Peters, Phoenician tomb-
stones and ruins have been brought to light, proving that
Manicaland had been considerably inhabited centuries ago.
Macequece is the mining headquarters of the Mozambique
Company. A puff and a snort and we are in motion again. The
scene has changed. We are on a bridge looking down into a
tropical swamp. A summer shower is falling, although the sun
is still shining on the mountains. An old frog, who forgets that
the dawn has arrived, wheezes gloomily, and a pretty pink bird
raises silver wings and sails away.

In the early morning, fresh with the glittering dew, this forest
is enchantingly beautiful, with its mile after mile of lilies. I ask
the conductor what they are called. He shrugs his shoulders,
and shakes his head. " I don't know. Some folks call it white
weed." Of course he wouldn't know. They never notice lilies,
although they travel through this wonderful scenery every day.
To me, who love Nature with all my being, it is inconceivable not
to notice or appreciate its beauties.

The waiter has brought me a cup of hot liquid, and I cannot
make up my mind whether it is tea, coffee, or chocolate. It
tastes like neither, but the concoction is not bad, it has a lot of
milk in it, and, as I drain the cup to its dregs, I think it must
have been weak cocoa. More huge trees of lilies nod their heads
as we race by. The earth is very red and reminds me of Ceylon.
Umtali is reached at 7.45 a.m. It might be called the gate to
Rhodesia, and how different from Beira ! Truly this is a white
man's country. It is over 3000 feet above sea-level, and situated
amongst delightful mountains, whose wooded sides, with the sun
shining through the mist in iridescent shades, make a picture long
to be remembered.

Many English people are assembled at the station. They

1 10

Beira

are possessors of good complexions, brown and healthy. It
was pleasant again to meet them alter such a surfeit of Portuguese
and natives. Here the air is fresh, breathable and invigorating.
Two hotel porters in smart, clean clothes solicit patrons for
the Royal and Cecil Hotels. Our old friend Sunlight Soap is
present, in the garb of a Dutch girl, and hangs on the side of
the tin refreshment room in great prominence. Uintah is the
centre of some very rich gold mines, and is also one of the strong-
holds of the Chartered Company. One sees many churches, and
the huge shed upon leaving the station, belongs to the repairing
shops of the railway. Very fortunate is Umtali in its generous
water supply. The rainy season lasts from November till the end
of March, good drinking water being obtainable and laid on to all
the houses.

Leaving the town the scenery continues interesting. Queer-
shaped, conical mountain heights form fantastical shapes. Through
the far-seeing eyes of one of England's greatest sons, Cecil John
Rhodes, the man who " thought in empires," this vast wonder-
ful Rhodesia is ours ; and future generations will ble^s the
name of him who has given innumerable homes to overcrowded
Britain. It is such a relief, after the scaleling heat I have passed
through along the East Coast, to enjoy vitality, coolness blowing
off the mountains, and the generously flower-laden atmosphere.
Patches of mealies and a few thatched Kaffir kraals form the only
signs of habitation as the train proceeds on its way through miles
of fertile land, and my thoughts turn to those thousands of suffering
humanity, the flotsam and jetsam of suffering London, who in the
cold, damp winter eke out a miserable existence, crowded in close
unhealthy quarters, while this smiling vast Rhodesia woulel give
them life and happiness if only they coukl reaeh it.

Quite a nice breakfast has been served. We had tinned kippers,
which were not at all untasty, eggs, and a long list of things which
1 did not sample. How different is travel in these days, one
thinks, when one can go in comfort, compared with the old pioneer
times, not so far back, with meals picked up wherever they could
be obtained ! I guarantee that in those days it was not a epiestion
of choosing, it was simply one of "' Give me what you have."
Long coach rides of many hours' duration, jolting over rough
tracks, aggravate the appetite. A queer land of marvellously
placeel rocks comes into view. By some freak of Nature these

1 1 [

A Woman's Winter in Africa

rocks are mounted, in nondescript shapes, one over another,
forming weird effects. Some are poised at such an angle that one
would imagine the slightest push would send them over. Others
shape themselves to look like villages in the distance, and a
variegated floral carpet creeps up close to the rocks with loving
solicitude.

At nine o'clock punctually, the Mail Express arrived at Salis-
bury. The train waits two hours, and I thought it would be
interesting to dine at the Commercial Hotel. It is more central
than the Queen's, which I had heard well spoken of. It was very
dark, and I was surprised that in the capital of Rhodesia the
streets were not lighted. At the hotel they told me electric light
is about to be installed and also that water — which is of an excel-
lent quality- — will scon be laid on at the different houses. I
I was glad to see the familiar figures of horses. During my
long trip down the East Coast since I left Port Said, I had
never seen a horse, their great enemy the tsetse-fly making
existence impossible.

At Salisbury there are many motor-cars, rickshaws, with
native runners, and hotel omnibuses ; therefore there are plenty
of ways of getting about this sprawled-out town, which in a way
resembles an octopus with its tentacles spread in all directions.
The wide main street appeared to have attractive shops, but
darkness forbade even a conjecture as to what they contained. I
found myself at the Commercial Hotel, and at once went in to
dinner. I confess I was a little disappointed in the hotel. One
sees many of the South African millionaires in the best restaurants
and hotels of London, and one wonders how they can put up with
the accommodation given out here. They must occasionally
visit the properties from which their great wealth is obtained.

I entered a long narrow dining-room, whose walls were papered in
dark red, while a frieze about six inches in width depicted im-
possible mountains and crimson islands. There was no covering on
the board floors, but one strip of cocoanut-fibre matting wandered
down the centre. Several stuffy green portieres decorated the doors.
Plenty of pretty flowers were on the tables, and the waiters wore
white, with a broad red sash over their shoulders, which ended in a
huge impressive tassel at the side, and meretriciously reminded
one of the Grand Cordon de Legion d'Honneur of France. The
dinner was uninteresting : fish peculiar, grilled rump steak like

1 12

(i.

>
<&

D
O

u
o

!'3

A Woman's Winter in Africa

leather ; roast sirloin the same. The boiled parsnips I managed
to eat— they were at least tender. Stewed quince and custard I
declined and chose devilled sardines. These proved impossible.
The price of the dinner was 4s., with drinkables just as expensive
as in all these parts.

Afterwards I wandered into a very well-arranged reading-
room and looked over the papers. Everyone was courteous,
and I was shown upstairs, where there are two sitting-rooms,
and on the balcony a tea bungalow, as they called it, encircled
a portion of the building. Here were placed comfortable wicker
chairs and small tables. A lady was sitting by herself, and
as I experienced a feeling of loneliness we began talking.
She had recently come to the country from England, with her
husband ; they were both twenty-two, she confided. They had
bought their farm and were now live-stocking it. She naturally
hoped to succeed and build home and fortune in her adopted
country. " Speaking of making money in the farming line," she
said, " why, eggs are 4s. 6d. a dozen, and butter half a crown a
pound."

It appears that farmers at the end of the season, when the
revenues of toil come in, re-invest as much of the amount as
possible in buying additional land and stocking the farm — which
certainly shows the right spirit and their faith in the great future
of the land. Without a doubt Rhodesia has one of the finest
climates in the world. It is elevated, and can be compared with
Riviera conditions, without that deadly chill which lurks in
shadows in that part of Europe. If the day is warm there is an
ample breeze at night, and one awakes refreshed in the morning.
The people who live here are pictures of sturdy, bronzed health
and strength. The women wear cotton gowns or coats and skirts
of light material, with shady-brimmed hats. The men stand and
walk with the easy grace of strong manhood. They favour large felt
hats rather than cork helmets, and wear leather belts, as they
are often in shirt sleeves, though they always don coats to come
into the restaurant car.

There are as yet no postmen in Salisbury. All mail is sent to
the General Post Office, where people have their private boxes,
and either call or send for it. Most of the buildings I can discern
are erected with the ever-present corrugated iron, but they are
made more pleasing to the eye by a coat of paint. I fancy it

114

I Jeira

mus1 be one of the social functions of Rhodesia for the in-
habitants to gather at the station on the approach of a mail
train, for there is a large crowd, and the shaking hands and embrac-
ings lor intended departures are interesting to witness as one sits
in solitude.

Not being able to see anything of Salisbury in the murky night,
I came back to my compartment in the train early, and therefore
had plenty of opportunity for studying the people, and it was
very engaging to listen to the cheers and parting exclamations of a
family of English on their way home to that great-little island
when the train pulled out of the station. ' For he's a jolly good
fellow ! " roared and echoed for some time in the distance. It
made me think of Doncaster with its Yorkshire roar, and how it
used to please King Edward when with one mighty ringing voice
the mob on the racecourse yelled, " Teddy ! Teddy ! Good old
Teddy ! " And the " Peacemaker," whose courtesy was phenom-
enal, would stand, his hat in his hand, and a big cigar in his
mouth, bowing and smiling to his loyal folk.

When I entered the restaurant car to order one of those precious
lemon squashes that cost 2s., and are mostly made of cheap
Portuguese mineral water, the conductor asked me how I liked
my dinner at the hotel. I said, " We had better dinners on the
train." He was exceedingly gratified, and added, ' Kveryone
says the same thing, Madam." On my return from the Victoria
halls I intend staying in Salisbury, and in the sunshine I shall
be able to see things better.

As the train rushes through the country I glance at the tele-
graph wires which glisten in the light of the engine. There are
three, and one will be the cable. Pages of history, ruin, and
romance float through my brain as I think what that cable has
meant to many — how fortunes have been won and lost as this
tiny wire flashed mining tips across continents ; how many
thousands of pounds have changed hands by the message borne
on that slender thread of unimportant-looking copper.

The next morning I awoke at dawn, dressed, and sat by the
window watching the scudding scenery as it vanished in the
dist ance. There are many trees bright and fresh in colour, evidence
that we have left the dry lands behind, and thickly clothed hills
look down upon wide valleys. Suddenly 1 am conscious of a dull
distant roar of some mighty unseen force. The conductor is

A Woman's Winter in Africa

passing, and I say to him, " What is that noise ? " " It's the
Falls," he answers, smiling. " The Falls," I exclaim ; " but we
are yet a long way off, are we not ? ' " About twenty miles," he
agrees.

What must Dr. Livingstone's feelings have been when, after
those long weary marches across a continent, he heard this
constant roar of mighty waters thundering in the distance !
Upon a nearer approach he saw what anyone would think at first
sight was the smoke of some gigantic fire ascending thousands of
feet heavenwards, and the natives told the brave explorer, " It
was the Mosi-oa-Tunya," which translated means " thunder of
smoke." A splendid name it is for this giant of Nature's work !
I can now see the smoke or mist myself, and it gives me a feeling
of intense excitement. I long to see more — I am impatient, and
want the train to arrive. Then a great wave of gratitude comes
over me that I am to be privileged to behold this World's Wonder
-that I, out of the millions of people who will never in their
lives enjoy this pleasure, am favoured by God and circumstances.
In a short time the train stops in a sort of wood. A small tin
station stands close by — and a big white wooden signboard
spells : " victoria falls."

VICTORIA FALLS STA'l ION.

116

CHAPTER XVII
/ '/'c/or/'a Falls

FIVE minutes' walk under trees, and through pretty gardens,
which have large whitewashed stones round the flower-beds,
brought me to the Victoria Falls Hotel. After registering I passed
through the hall to the verandah. A beautiful view greets you as
you look down two great gorges covered with fresh trees and kept
ever verdant by the ceaseless spray. Victoria Bridge, 600 feet
high, with a cantilever span of 500 feet, is the loftiest bridge in the
world, and in the blue distance resembles filigree work. I take
a hasty breakfast, feeling I must lose no time before seeing the
Falls. I set off, camera, sunshade, and notebook in hand. The
managing clerk accompanies me to the end of the verandah.
" Don't you think I should have a guide ? " I inquire. ' Oh, no,
it's not necessary," he responds. ' The paths are well laid out, as
you will see by the signboards."

1 n all the hotel advertisements one reads that the Falls are only a
few minutes away. This is quite deceptive. After half an hour's
walk over a rather rough road you come to Victoria Bridge. All
along the approach the roar of the Falls increases its thunder ; but
even so you are totally unprepared for the scene that opens before
you ! Everywhere are wonderful trees, crystallized into eternal
freshness by the mist. They crown and decorate well-worn pinnacles
of rocks. Then you stand on \ 'ictoria Bridge. To the left and far
below is the dark brown water, churning in what is called the
Boiling Pot. The water rushes in, swirls, runs about in impotent
anger, having been hurled over a precipice, down 400 feet, and into
this maze from which there is no outlet. At last, however, it
rushes under the bridge, flows with loud protest, hissing over
rocks, and wends its. way through deep and narrow channels to
its natural bed.

The top view of the Zambesi looks as if snow were lying on the
grass, and wdiite cascades pour down from its great height, spraying
to some 3000 feet.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

From the other side the scenery is enchantingly lovely. Imagine
a chasm of bold forbidding rock, superfluously trimmed with green
teak forests and the gnarled trunks of monster trees. Over it come
tons of irresistible water falling uproariously into the profound
pit, hidden by magic spray. My prevailing sensation is that of
awed humility. I feel like crouching and sobbing how insignificant
an atom I am amid all this appalling grandeur. The Omnipotent
Being I gratefully thank for having permitted me to view this
eighth Wonder of the World. 1 would like to stay alone on this
spot all day, give myself to thought, and watch the fascination of
that vari-coloured magnitude of water.

But there is more to be seen, the sun is becoming fierce, so I go
around a bend in the road — and the great Zambesi itself lies
before me, a sapphire set in malachite. There are wooden
benches, and fortunately many are placed on the road in spots
where the prospect is particularly alluring. I take my notebook,
only to realize how inefficient my description will be. What poor
lifeless things words are ! No pen nor brush could ever express
the gloriousness of the Falls.

" Imp," my spirit of travel, for once is overawed and silent. I
recall that just a hundred years have passed since the great ex-
plorer was born, and wonder how Dr. Livingstone — the first white
man to view the scene — felt when his eyes beheld this vision of
Nature's grandeur in 1855. Were his emotions those of reverence,
exultation, or gratification ?

These ethereal Falls are difficult to photograph as they roll,
tumbling and boiling into a titanic cauldron. How far London
seems away, as I sit entranced in the heart of the Darkest Con-
tinent !

I walk on for some distance, in the glorious panorama ; then I
come to a signboard pointing to the Palm Grove. This path I was
told to follow by some of the hotel people. I understood that
near by is the boat for Livingstone Island. Down I go and am
astounded to find such a way, it is the gully of a one-time stream,
narrow, with loose sharp rocks. The stones rattle after me ; I
constantly cut my feet, and my ankles threaten to sprain at every
moment. It is a long way, and, like the road to ruin, difficult to
retraverse ! Besides, I tell myself and " Imp," the ever-present,
that this must be the right turning, for occasionally there are a
few worn-out seats placed under the trees.

118

'—

•_

t/3

I-

i_]

•j

feH

U-i

•J

c
z

A Woman's Winter in Africa

The way appears interminable as I go slipping downward, while
the idea occurs to me what an awful fix one would be in if one's
ankle got broken. Here one would have to lie all day, perhaps
all night, until the hotel people sent out search parties. There
is plenty of big game. Lions have come within a couple of miles
of the hotel. I think they should repair this miserable route to
the Palm Grove, or at least send a Kaffir with you, in case of
accident !

There are many palms. As a tropical grove it is very beautiful,
but I am too uncomfortable to appreciate its attractiveness, and

VICTORIA FALLS.

By kind permission of Mr. Percy Clark, F. R.G.s.

too busy trying to keep my feet. It is dreadfully hot, and myriads
of flies insist upon taking up quarters in my eyes. I see a scorpion
sitting on a rock sunning himself and only just avoid stepping on
him. There are innumerable centipedes, wormy creatures, moths,
and butterflies. After I should think a mile of steep downhill
struggling, the perspiration dripping from my nose and face, I espy
a .hamper under a tree. It is marked " V. F. H." — -signs of life, at
any rate, I think ; maybe the hotel has a boat below.

,1 am so thirsty ! If only that hamper had bottles of water 01
anything ! I open it — it is full of bottles. I take one up, deter-

120

Victoria Falls

mined to smash the neck against a tree in case I can't find a cork-
screw. Picture my disappointment ami dismay to find every
bottle empty ! Afterwards I heard that they were the remains of
a picnic a fortnight previously. A little farther on I found m\ -< II
at the very bottom of the cliff, overlooking the Boiling Pot, which is
horrible in its whirlpool fury, but more impressive from the bridge.
1 am just boo feet below the bridge, and as 1 look up it appears to
span all heaven. There is a high black rock ; 1 climb it to rest,
and a little lizard, yellow and black, possessing a pale blue tail,
comes to keep me company.

I see no way of being fetched by boat, as nothing could live in
these whirling rapids. There is no conveyance of any kind. I
philosophize that I must scramble up the narrow, broken path
again, or rest here all my life. I am tired, hot, thirsty, and not
knowing 1 was going for an adventure of this kind I am wearing
light shoes, so my feet are bruised, blistered, and aching. A
chattering begins over my head, and I look up. Horrors !

The trees are full of monkeys. There are all kinds, little and big.
One hideous ape fastens his long tail around a branch, leaps to-
wards me, grabbing at my veil, which hangs down from my cork
helmet. I scream, and he looks astonished, blinks, and springs
back to his tree. I have only my sunshade for defence. What
shall I do ? There must be a hundred of them leaping about.
Oh for an aeroplane to fly up to the bridge ! Shall I jump
into the cool waters of the Boiling Pot and end it all ?

I cannot reason with " Imp," but 1 know if I don't scramble up
the cliff I shall go mad. My only thought is to get out of the place.
Heat is unbearable. I begin to climb those same rocks I slid down,
but find it more easy, for I have now a firm foothold, dire monkeys
accompany me, chattering all the while. A little one has jumped
on my back. I beat him off, since I have no intention of carrying
monkeys as well as myself. I assure you it was dreadful getting
over those pointed rocks. My heart seemed to be in my throat.
It beat so violently that I often had to pause to recover my
breath. Heat, flies, and monkeys ! But I was not doomed to lose
my reason in the Palm Grove, or to rest with the latter. I plodded
higher and higher, and when I was nearing the top the monkeys
disappeared as quickly as they arrived.

I emerged from that place of torment gasping, and sat down
on the seat near the deceiving signboard. Once on top I real-

121

A Woman's Winter in Africa

ized that never before in my vast amount of experience all over
the world had I been quite so uncomfortable ! After a little rest
I begin again, and have more than two miles to walk back to
the hotel. It is nearly one o'clock, the temperature registers 115
degrees. On I plod amid the hot, sandy soil and over lava
stones, which grind the leather off my shoes. I again cross the
bridge — the toll being is., which they have forgotten. The low,
flat roof of the hotel looks a long way off, and I thought I would
never be able to reach it. I am a strong woman, but I wonder if

THE

BOILING POT.

the same^" circumstances happened to a semi-invalid or an elderly
lady what would be the result.

When I eventually arrived, feeling more dead than alive, I
found I had climbed and slid 1200 feet — no light task to accom-
plish at noon during the hot season in the heart of Africa ! The
hotel people were astonished to hear of my adventure. Men folk
agreed they would not even have attempted such an arduous task.
1 went to the clerk in the office and asked him what grudge he had
against me ; and also told him my opinion of the hotel con-
veniences and arrangements. Then lunch, which I felt I deserved.
I was terribly tired, and getting stiffer each moment, for I am a
novice at cliff climbing. By three o'clock I started again ; this
time, however, having a guide and a rickshaw.

122

CHAPTER XVIII

Zambesi and Rain Forest

MY next jaunt is in a pony rickshaw led by a black boy. A
guide accompanies me. Victoria Falls Hotel has an
inadequate supply of conveyances — only one guide, two rickshaws,
and several old carts. One can imagine with twenty-five guests,
each clamouring for attendants, the disadvantages of sight-seeing.
If only the hotel management, after enticing you by splendid ad-
vertisements to cross Africa, would deign to provide better com-
fort for their guests, all would be well. There is no more beautiful
scenery in the world. The property belongs to the Chartered
Company. This hotel is old-fashioned, and should be rebuilt.
However, it has the monopoly, and refuses to modernize, nor will
it allow its land to be sold.

An enterprising American desired to purchase real estate and
erect an enormous hotel costing a million dollars ; but his schemes
were foiled. Victoria Falls Hotel consists of a collection of primi-
tive corrugated - iron houses, bungalow style, walls inside being
of rough boards. There are a verandah and annexes which rest
on wooden piles, but the whole edifice shakes as you walk.
What they need is a fine three-storeyed building facing the falls,
where the view would prove magnificent. I presume the authori-
ties' philosophy is, "We have the eighth wonder of the world.
If you want to see it you must pay our prices and put up with
accommodation offered." I paid 2is. a day pension.

It was pleasant jolting along in the rickshaw, scenery becoming
so lovely that I nearly forgot the pain of my blistered feet. The
Zambesi resembled a turquoise chain. It is said to be extremely
dangerous for boatmen who are not familiar with its treacherous
currents. Several unfortunates have been ruthlessly swept over
its .great cascade. A charming canoe like one used in Canada
was waiting. I settled myself comfortably ; the afternoon was
gorgeous, while the beauty of my surroundings gave me a sensation
of unreality. Softly and quickly I was paddled across to Living-

123

A Woman's Winter in Africa

stone Island, and here I beheld the famous tree on whose trunk
that great and good man carved" 1). L." Some people discredit this.
But in Dr. Livingstone's book he states it was the only time in his
life he was guilty of vanity and cut his initials on a tree.

From here I went to Danger Point. One sits on a huge over-
hanging rock clinging to a friendly tree. The distance looking
down is appalling. Picture the eddying surface of the Zambesi
betrayed and falling 600 feet into innumerable cascades of

pearl, diamond, and topaz,
coloured by sunbeams, chas-
ing each other over the im-
petuous falls. Can you see
this enchanting fairy spectacle
of mist, rising three thousand
feet ? You look down the sides
of brown rocks trimmed with a
hundred rainbows. The iri-
descent sparkling shades with
their snowlike hurricanes quite
bewilder one — the titanic force
of the falls makes you feel
utterly insignificant.

Almost instantly dull, black
clouds cover the sky and Nature
indulges in a tempest. The
thunder of the skies and that
of the falls fight a royal
battle. Rain comes down in
sheets — and it certainly is a
watery place. In a few minutes
I am as wet as if I sat under a cataract. There is no shelter.
In a short time the sun came out victorious, but these tropical
showers give no warning. I stood up, and began wringing out
my heavily sodden skirt. Then I hastened to the canoe and
proceeded to the hotel for dry raiment.

Upon arrival I immediately looked to see if my letters of credit
had been wet through and my signature blurred — I invariably wear
an under-pocket containing money and these letters. For the
benefit of travellers may I suggest it would be an improvement
if these pockets were lined with rubber ?

[24

VIEW OF r.RIPGE AND VALLEY.

Zambesi and Rain Forest

Fortunately for me a roll of notes guarded the precious letters,
they were a pulp, but could be easily dried. My aching feel warned
me that I ha<l had sufficient adventure for one day, so I retired
early. It was very amusing next morning, since all the guests had

gone through the same experience as myself. Their clothes and
boots were taken by the Kaffirs to be dried. There are no women
servants at this hotel, while the niggers are the mosl stupid I
have met. They must have just left the bush, since they cannot
speak even a little pidgin-English. Between seven and eighl

VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL.

a dozen heads bobbed out of doors, crying, " Boy, I want my
clothes — my boots."

The bedroom 1 occupied could not be styled pretty or comfort-
able. The iron bedstead held a thin mattress which reminded
me of a sandwich. Every time one turned the wires groaned
dreadfully, and two of the hardest and smallest pillows com-
pleted the discomfort. A precocious green window-blind would
not go up or remain down, but chose its own level, while the
matchboard walls were a sickly green. An early Victorian mirror
with a side broken enabled you to dress, and in the corner a
wooden triangle, supporting a blue rag, served as a wardrobe.

The dining-room was commodious and food quite all right.

1 began sight-seeing early, and visited the famous Rain Forest.
Everyone tells you to wear thick boots and an old gown, because
this interesting place is so well named.

125

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Tropical foliage and charming views are everywhere. Gnarled
trunks of forest monarchs are draped with pink and white con-
volvuli, while giant lianes rope dead and living branches with
wonderful effect. The traditional rain appeared in a soft fine mist,
lenient in comparison with yesterday's hurricane. Yellow-green
moss like velvet clings to grey grim rocks, and tiny streams murmur
a continuous lullaby.

Imp " was much impressed with the dark solemn splendours
of the Rain Forest. I had a look at the beautiful Rainbow Falls
and the Devil's Cascade, whose waters formed a steaming cauldron.
This gloomy abyss, and the fearful majesty of the scenery, were

GARDENS, VICTORIA FALLS HOT L.

almost supernatural. The Zambesi River is about a mile and a half
wide above the Falls, its length 1200 miles, the greatest volume of
water pouring over the various gorges in April.

Comparing Niagara Falls with those of Victoria, I say there
is no comparison. Although belonging to the same family, each
is a perfect beauty.

Victoria Falls are much greater, because there are several
distinct cataracts descending into majestic gorges. On the other
hand, Niagara discloses her beauteousness at once. I shall never
forget my first view of this silver horseshoe, mere tumbling water
framed by prismatic rainbows, nor my wonder over its beaming in
the moonlight. Taking everything into consideration, Victoria
Falls are the most imposing in the world.

126

Zambesi and Rain Forest

An American tourist taken to see t hem, had on the previous even-
ing boasted considerably about Niagara ; standing for several
minutes dumbfounded, he exclaimed, " Sell Niagara ! " Imp fell
inclined to agree with him.

Mr. Percy Clark, f.r.g.s., who lives in "The Hut " close to the
hotel, can be relied upon for genuine native curios. I le is a splendid
photographer, as his numerous pictures testify. Mos1 kindly he
assisted me in developing my snapshots, also giving me permission
to use two of his best views of the Falls. Another interesting
personage living near by is a trapper of big game. One can buy
furs and lion-skin bags at his hut, which he tells me is the same
sort of shelter as Dr. Livingstone used.

127

CHAPTER XIX
Bulawayo

ON the whole Rhodesian railways are comfortable, service and
food both being commendable. The line extends to Broken
Hill in the north, where one can change at Sakania and connect
through to Elizabethville in the Belgian Congo. My return by train
to Bulawayo was not interesting. We stopped some time at the
Wankie coal mines, seventy miles- due south. It appeared a busy
place, many miners coming into the restaurant car for drinks. I
am told that on account of the drought throughout Rhodesia there
is some apprehension that the Wankie water supply may be
exhausted, then these mines would close. One regrets the vast
waste of water at the Falls. Oh, if it could only be harnessed by
engineers and irrigate the parched country.

In the morning I arrived at the Grand Hotel — Bulawayo, the
translation of this Zulu name meaning " killing kraal." Shortly
after breakfast I took a motor-car to the Khami Ruins, fourteen
miles distant. Leaving my car I have a long, rough way to
traverse. I cross a dry river bed, with sharp, projecting stones,
and continue to follow my instructions. The sun is intensely
hot, while paths to the Ruin laid out in iqio have not since been
cleared. Consequently weeds obliterate most of them. I could
discover only one well-worn signboard, but eventually arrived at
this much-overrated spot. There was an extensive high parapet of
thin, narrow bricks, and heaps of stones. The Ruin itself in
ancient days may have been a walled city, the sides being curved.
It occupies an immense site, with debris piled to such an elevation
that I felt no desire to climb its uninteresting ridge. Why on earth
had I taken all this trouble to come ?

Everyone has his own version as to who built and inhabited the
Khami Ruin, the list running as follows. Since I know nothing
about its accuracy, I leave you to take your choice : Asiatics
from the Persian Gulf, Phoenicians, Sabseans, Bantu or Bushmen.
The place is now in possession of the largest lizards I ever saw,

128

Bulawayo

resembling baby crocodiles. I imagine i1 is their markel day, since
they have assembled in hordes and are frantically busy. I sauntei
on trying to find Bushmen paintings, but only encounter more
bricks. Being almost noon, with a grilling sun beating down and
no shade, I decide to make for the car. After walking ten or
fifteen minutes I am suddenly aware that this is not the right
way, the signboard and a certain tree I remarked being missing.
What a nuisance, and in such a lonely place with heat absolutely
baking !

They have a queer way in Rhodesia of sending yon out with
a gay sentence, " Oh, it's just over there," and you walk for miles

KARMI RUINS, NKAR BULAWAYO.

to that phantom " over there. ' It is said that Cecil Rhodes would
never be left alone on the veldt, as he had a horror of being lost.
Odd he should choose his last resting-place in the very heart of
such grim and mighty loneliness. 1 am not at all frightened. 1
can easily retrace my way to the first Ruin, where I can sit on
bricks with the lizards until the chauffeur comes to find me, since
he dare not return to the hotel alone.

After a time a distant hallooing sounded, and responding to
it, I was found and safely conducted back to the car. Motoring
proved pleasant after walking in the sun, although the road is
exceedingly rough and must play havoc with tyres. At luncheon
I was introduced to an American who had seen most of the globe.

I 129

A Woman's Winter in Africa

He leaves for the great Zimbabwe Ruins, which I hear are marvel-
lous. The journey, however, is most trying by train, including
miles by coach afterwards. I yearn to behold these wonderful
relics of the ancients, but my thoughts travelling to the long route
before me, I realize time will not permit me to see everything of
importance in /Vfrica.

Distances here are enormous compared with those of my own
country. By the time I reach Beira, where I embark, nearly
2000 miles will have been covered.

" Imp " says : " Buy photographs of the Khami Ruin — it looks
much more impressive in shop windows." But my advice to pro-
spective travellers is, " Don't bother to see it."

The streets of Bulawayo are named after the men who originated
the Chartered Company — -Rhodes, Fife, Abercorn, Shelborne,
Grey, and others.

The first thing which impresses you in the Main Street is the
huge bronze statue of Cecil Rhodes. It is mounted on red granite,
brought from "World's Mew." This commemorative tribute
was executed by Mr. John Tweed. The pioneer of continents is
standing — his hands clasped behind his back — wearing a lounge
suit, and it is a well-known fact that he always clung to suits he
had grown to like, detesting what is called " smart attire."
Bareheaded, he is gazing forever down the principal street
of the town he created. The monument is placed opposite the
Bulawayo Club, at the junction of Main Street and Eighth
Avenue.

A short distance beyond rises another mark of gratitude from
the country. This is a granite pedestal, some thirty feet in height.
On the top is placed a Gatling gun captured from the Matabele,
who had treacherously smuggled it into the country. One side is
inscribed with the following : "To the memory of those 259
pioneers of civilization who lost their lives during the Matabele
Rebellion, A.D. 1896." Below, on white marble tablets, one reads of
those who fell for love of patriotism. Two opposite sides record
these facts in Dutch.

After luncheon at the most comfortable hotel I have stayed at
in Africa, namely, the Grand, I again take a motor for the Matoppo
Hills. Weather is perfect — the air exhilarating.

No one should miss seeing " World's View," and no one could
fail to appreciate the weird, silent grandeur of this mountain

130

w
u

A Woman's Winter in Africa

stronghold that treasures the remains of the renowned founder
of Rhodesia.

On Saturdays and Sundays one can reach the Matoppos by rail,
but somehow chance never allows me to participate in cheap
excursions, so I was obliged to motor out. The cost was £4 10s.,
which I in no way regretted. If I lived in these parts I should often
spend hours in this wonderful spot. The road is good, and we spin
along most enjoyably. When you arrive at your destination, an
enormous rock confronts you, and at its base you pause to read
this notice before beginning the ascent : ' The public are most
earnestly requested not to leave empty bottles, straw, envelopes,
tins, or paper on this estate, but either to burn or take them back
to town, so that visitors who pass here on their way to World's
View may carry away a favourable impression and feel that Mr.
Rhodes' wishes in this respect continue to be observed."

Kopje after kopje rises on every side, something like 300 feet
in height. Huge, queer-shaped stones, tons in weight, with fantastic
green shrubs, mark the way to the summit.

I climb up the massive hill opposite. A wild cat emerges
from its rocky shelter, and I welcome it as an omen of good luck.
Fascinated, I watch the sun shining on its black coat, the animal
silhouetted against a golden wall. The lonely desolation of the
scene is indescribable, deepest silence reigning for miles around.
One goes on steadily climbing for twenty minutes or more. View
after view entrances the eye. In solemn grandeur an amphi-
theatre of innumerable purple mountains circle the horizon, the
sunset tangles its rays into rock-set glories of splendid colouring.
The black cat still maintains its position. Has it come into this
solitude for mere admiration, or only in search of a supper ?

In front of the mountains are smaller and countless hills of rock
which remind me of the Roman Colosseum. Everyone says that
Cecil Rhodes' funeral was wonderful. The population of South
Africa attended in thousands, each one desiring to pay last
respects. All vehicles and modes of conveyance were called
into action. People who could not do better rode upon oxen.
The multitude followed the gun-carriage and its escort over
the marked path that I am now walking. Everywhere you look
granite confronts you, and his grave is sunk into a species of
plateau. Eight great boulders, each approximately seventy tons
in weight, stand — tireless sentinels — to guard the dead. A card

132

Bulawa) o

neatly framed in black reads: 'This is consecrated ground."
Suddenly you arrive upon a flal stage. Before v<>u a granite
slab, raised perhaps a fool from the rock, covered by a simple
bronze tablet , records plainly, without scroll or emblem :

" Here lie the remains of Cecil John Rhodes."

No date of birth or death, lake Dr. David Livingstone, he soughl
no title. He rests in a spot
chosen by himself, surrounded

by the rocks and mountains
he loved so well. Gone, passed
through the final door, sleep-
ing in God's eternal peace,
alone with the granite boulders
so like the strong firmness
of his character. " World's
View " is well named. 1 place
my hand in reverence on the
bronze tablet, offering a silent
prayer. The stillness, the
golden beams of the sun going
to rest, the lonely solitude of
this great pioneer, print a
picture utterly ineffaceable on
my memory.

A few minutes' walk to-
wards the south-east brings
you to a grey stone memorial
in Grecian style upon the base
of which is written :

RHODES' GRAVE.

" TO BRAVE MEN."

" To the enduring memory of Allan Wilson and his men whose
names are hereon inscribed and who fell in fight against the
Matabele on the Shangani River, Dec. 4th, 1S93. There was
no survivor."

On each side of the monument, depicted in bronze and splen-
didly executed, are scenes of battle and Major Allan Wilson's last
stand. This superb work was also achieved by Mr. John Tweed,
thirty workmen being sent out from Aberdeen to adjust the stone.

T •-> n

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Major Wilson and his men were at first buried at Victoria, but
afterwards brought here and interred with solemn ceremony.
Cecil Rhodes chose the site. An interesting painting, showing the
hero still armed and fighting in the centre of dying comrades and
horses, should be seen, it is in the Bulawayo Public Library.

This part of the country, covered as it is with rocks, made an
ideal battlefield for the Matabele. Curiously enough, at Intumbane,
fourteen miles away, the Chief of the Matabele, M'Zilekazi, is

buried in the fissure of a
boulder. He was a Bantu
ruler, causing much trouble
in the Transvaal and Bechuana-
land. He died in 1868.

On my return journey I motor
through the Rhodes estate,
comprising some eighteen thou-
sand acres. The man who
' thought in empires " clearly
loved this retreat. He estab-
lished wonderful Botanical and
Zoological Gardens. It is said
he experimented by planting
nearly every known tree, and
the estate is now reaping the
benefit of its founder's thought-
fulness.

Upon one of the kopjes
stones are heaped by natural
forces, forming a sort of throne
which the natives have chris-
One of the rocks bears a re-

MAXIM MONUMENT.

tened " Cecil Rhodes' Chair."
markable resemblance to his features.

The next place of interest on our return run is the Matoppos Dam
and Hotel, both built by Mr. Rhodes. The dam is capable of
holding nine hundred million gallons of water, and when full forms
a lake three-quarters of a mile in length. The Matoppos Dam
Hotel, in bungalow fashion with verandahs, affords a pleasant
stopping-place.

My " Imp " and I counsel all travellers not to miss " World's

lew.

Bulawayo

In the evening I dined a1 the hotel, and enjoyed the besl dinner
I had partaken of for some time.

The dining-room is spacious and Lofty, carpeted in dark green
felt, with a wainscoting of the same colouring, relieved l>\ < ream
shaded walls, all of which give an air of coolness. Electric lights
are covered with rose-pink shades, and long casemenl curtains
give a pleasing effect. The furnishings of the spacious lounge
outside are in the same tones, while comfortable wicker arm-
chairs and plenty of newspapers make it an enjoyable place in
which to loiter.

Rumour says this is the best hotel in Rhodesia, and I who have
sampled most of them certainly agree. The waiters remind me
of those at the Taj Mahal Hotel at Bombay, light-complexioned
Indians of good caste, serving an excellent dinner and doing it
well.

Here is the menu :

Creme d'Asperges.
Boiled Scotch Salmon. Sauce Mousseline.
Venison a la Chasseur.
Brains a lTtalienne.
Roast haunch of mutton. Red-currant jelly.
Pheasant and bread sauce.
Fried and boiled potatoes.
Green peas. Marrow.
Smoked sardines.
Fruit. Coffee.

All the items of this dinner were of the best quality.

Prices of everything in Bulawayo are exceptionally high.
Most food-stuff is imported from Europe, Cape Town and Durban
supplying the fruit and vegetables. Exorbitant wages are
demanded by Kaffir boj^s. For example — washing costs 4s. 6d. a
dozen, one shilling is charged for laundering a white shirt ; petrol
3s. 3d. a gallon ; whisky at the grocer's 7s. a bottle and at the
hotel 10s. Brandy runs to 15s. ; while a good brand of champagne
cannot be got for less than 25s. a bottle. An ordinary lemon
squash means a two shilling piece. At the Grand Hotel 15s. 6d.
to 25s. per day is the inclusive charge, Mr. T. McMurray being
the able lessee and manager of this up-to-date establishment. A

135

A Woman's Winter in Africa

new hotel is in course of construction ; it will be called " The
Carlton."

I had the pleasure of meeting the Bishop of Mashonaland, one of
the best loved men in Rhodesia. His diocese extends over
thousands of miles, and across it he is continually travelling to
deliver his message of peace and goodwill. He bears an extra-
ordinary resemblance to the Bishop of London. We began talking
of fever, I asking if it was prevalent here. The Bishop replied
with a wise shake of his head : "It is true we have some fever,
but the worst comes out from Scotland in bottles."

I came to the conclusion in driving about Bulawayo that the
system of hygiene was well organized. The streets are enormously
wide, averaging from ninety to one hundred and twenty feet, giving
the idea of broad, red ribbons laid across the town. I visited the
handsome Drill Hall, presented by that generous benefactor Cecil
Rhodes. Over its entrance was inscribed " South Rhodesian
Volunteers." The residential quarter contained many hne houses,
mostly in bungalow fashion. A few possess two storeys, and are
surrounded by gardens of shrubs and flowers. These homes are
very English in style, tennis courts and croquet lawns testifying
to our carrying sports with us all over the world. Especially
noticeable were the residences of Mr. Walter Currie, Judge Vincent,
Mr. Myburd, chief magistrate, and Mr. Ackerman, mining engineer
of the Chartered Company. The Race Track with its picturesque
stand looked well kept, a meeting taking place about every
two months. Adjoining it is the Polo Club, which has forty
members. The Public Library was opened by H.R.H. the Duke
of Connaught in 1910. It contains seven thousand volumes, and
was erected at a cost of £25,000. I thought it a plain, ugly
building. No one should fail to visit the Museum, for its small
collection proved to be exceedingly well arranged and most inter-
esting, the animal life of the country being magnificently
represented. It also possesses some fine minerals. In the
business quarter, handsome stone buildings equal ours in London.
It is pleasant to see the camaraderie that exists. Everybody
appears to know everybody else.

There are many excellent shops, and some of these would not
disgrace Bond Street. For example, Basch and Co., showing
jewellery, McCollough's women's clothing, Beesley's men's attire •
and there are several well-stocked pharmacies and good book shops_

136

I Ui law a\ o

Dust storms are a frequent nuisance. One can always meet
little whirlpools of sand circling skywards. There has been very little
rain in Rhodesia this year, and 1912 also lacked sufhcienl water.
The proprietor of the hotel told me that if this drought continued
it would mean the ruin of the entire country, the dearth of wat< 1
causing cattle and crops to perish ; mining interests would be at a
standstill, and capital exhausted. For the sake of the colonists,
let us hope the elements will be more merciful. So far only three
inches of rain have fallen, while the average should be something
like thirty-two. They tell me that within the last month 40,000
head of cattle have died. The farmers have no fodder, cannot
afford to buy it, and with the drought sickness has set in, greatly
depleting their live stock. Water is so scarce in Bulawayo that the
authorities turn it off during the afternoon. I ordered a bath at
night, but was told by a polite chambermaid it was impossible. In
the morning they allowed me one bucket and a half of water,
which was absolutely inadequate.

A very pretty drive is to Government House, two and three-
quarter miles from town. The fine avenue, 130 feet wide, is
bordered on each side by a splendid variety of trees, reminding
one of the Long Walk at Windsor. Government House, the former
residence of Cecil Rhodes, constitutes a delightful, rambling
white bungalow built in quaint Dutch style. This is at present
occupied by the Hon. Rochfort Maguire, who is Vice-President
of the British South African Company.

Sunday afternoon — and an At Home is in progress ! The arrival
of guests is distinctly interesting. All sorts of conveyances are
represented, from the primitive Dutch cart to the ultra-smart
motor, both men and women being fine . specimens of ideal
colonials. In a species of small garden at one side I was shown
the " indaba tree." Under this Lobengula used to assemble his
chiefs and hold important palavers. Here also his old kraal existed.
From this site one can see the mountain which witnessed his
vengeance, looking with its flat top like a sacrificial altar. I
should describe Lobengula as " a merry old soul, and a wicked
old soul was he." As I pass through his late capital, stories I
have been told of his wars and atrocities crowd my mind. There
are very many of these.

Lobengula was a younger son of that powerful Zulu chief
Dingaan, and certainly followed in the footsteps of his barbaric

137

A Woman's Winter in Africa

parent. He possessed hundreds of wives, and thought nothing
of invading lesser chiefs' domains in quest of attractive females.
Having selected the most desirable for himself, the others were
handed on to the big men of his tribe. However, he always
obtained substantial payment for these favours in cattle or gold.
Many people still think he buried great treasure in some near-by
spot, but up to now it remains undiscovered. Here are instances
of his appalling cruelty : To a mountain named Maxim Hill or
Thabar's Induna he sent those who incurred his displeasure, to be
brutally assegaied. Even his wives did not escape this fate. At
one time, having doubts as to their faithfulness, he promptly
despatched all the suspects to and on this mountain. They were
said to number three hundred, a rather large harem to keep under
one husband's eye. These things must sound strange to stay-
at-homes in England. Only those who have seen the place can
realize how such scenes mark with sanguinary milestones the past
history of the country.

• 38

CHAPTER XX
Salisbury

COMING from Bulawayo, one halts at Gatooma, surrounded
by huge fields of mealies and wooded hills of brilliant
verdure. It is the centre of some of the richest gold mines.
Although a baby in years, the town has good streets and shops
presenting a flourishing appearance. Everyone talks of the famous
Cam and Motor mine here, predicting a marvellous future for it.
Already they have something like one and a half million tons of
quartz in sight, which is estimated to be worth nearly £3,000,000
sterling.

It was wonderful passing through this Eldorado, which Nature
has doubly blessed, clothing it with fertile fields, and hiding
marvellous treasure underground.

On my return to this beautiful town I was met by friends who
were keenly anxious to show me the capital of Rhodesia, which
is certainly laid out with great taste. The 3500 English people
who have established charming homes here have the advantage
over the Matabele people, because in Mashonaland they are blessed
with a greater water supply. Consequently there was a freshness
about Salisbury which Bulawayo lacked. Government House
wore an attractive air, being one-storeyed, and well screened by
attractive gardens.

However, the most beautiful private house belongs to the Weil
family. It is a Dutch mansion. Many skins on the stoep bore
testimony to hunting prowess, and an old English flower-garden
sounded a perfumed echo from home, while specimens of old
Dutch furniture made one covetous. The climate appears de-
lightful, but fever stalks at will, people having to be very
cautious.

As yet Salisbury has no water laid on to the houses, but this
is being done ; pipes at present lie along the streets, while electric
light is also being installed. The land is very fertile, everything
planted producing good results. Many more farmers are greatly

139

A Woman's Winter in Africa

needed, but they must possess a certain amount of money. This
is not a country for the ordinary immigrant, as white men cannot
perform menial labour. To get a farm, put up buildings, and
stock it with cattle is expensive. Therefore a man coming to take
up land should have at least £1500.

I was talking to a prominent citizen who knows the country
well, and he explained the situation, adding that the right sort of
farmer could, with a small capital, in the course of five years
become a wealthy man. He suggested that it would be a good
thing if the Government gave assistance in the beginning to
encourage settlers. The country cannot progress unless more
farms are established. At present, with all the rich land, it does
not raise sufficient food for the population. Eggs, chickens, fruit,
butter, and many other commodities which should be home grown
have to be imported into a colony which should export.

The tobacco industry has made rapid strides in the past year.
It is estimated that the season's harvest of 1913 will equal a
million and a quarter pounds. The crops of Virginia and Turkish
leaf form excellent brands of cigarettes. I noticed many men
carrying small white bags, and was informed they held Rhodesian
tobacco, which they preferred to any other. Colonists, please note
that 100,000,000 acres yet await the hand of the pioneer. Wages
are generous — miners receive from £60 to £80 a month. Even
Kaffir boys who do housework receive as much as our high-class
servants in England.

Salisbury possesses many fine buildings, notably the Victoria
Memorial Library, costing £10,000 ; the Standard Bank of South
Africa, and the offices of the London and Rhodesia Mining and
Land Company. Also a large seated statue of Mr. Alfred Beit,
whose generosity to the town has been greatly appreciated.

Unlike many new capitals, there are several hotels to choose
from. The Queen's is supposed to be the best, the Avenue, well
spoken of, the Commercial, the Langham, and several smaller
hotels. A good room at any of these will cost 15s. and upwards
per day. Rhodesia is by no means a cheap country to travel in ;
one has patiently to put up with discomforts and pay the price.

Here again the tennis courts, said to be the best in South Africa,
form a prominent feature, and the race meetings are popular.

The Government give £5 to anyone bringing in a lion skin.
They wish to annihilate these ravenous beasts ; big game is

140

A Woman's Winter in Africa

plentiful all over the country. The Salisbury Club is most
charmingly situated, and conducted on the same lines as our best
clubs at home. The usual description fits it — white bungalow
formation with cool green awnings and a pretty garden. I was
fortunate enough to be the guest of honour at dinner in this
exclusive rendezvous ; as in most men's clubs, women are not
admitted except on special occasions. However, at this abode one
private room is set aside for entertaining lady friends. Here a
very jolly small party assembled, a splendid dinner being served.
Roses decorated the table, the flowers duplicating the white rose of
York and the red of Lancaster. The meal was perfect in service
and selection, from the commencement with delicious iced melon to
the finish with strawberries and cream — -an evening to be remem-
bered. I must not forget that every honour was showered upon
me ; even Tiger, the mascot, condescended to eat turkey from my
hand. Tiger is a beautifully marked tortoiseshell cat who has
ruled here for thirteen years. In saying good-bye to progressive
Salisbury, I part with truly lavish hospitality and genial-hearted
friends.

14:

CHAPTER XXI
Lo uren co i Marq ucs

THIS is the first port where we were alongside a wharf on the
whole East Coast. Having entered the Bay between Mahone
and Reuben Points one discovers ample accommodation for seven
large ships, the dock being 901 metres in length. A gigantic iron
shed is already engaged in swallowing a monstrous cargo oi iron
rails, machinery, huge rounds of cable, barbed wire, and hundn ds
of other requirements necessary to construct a railway in a new
country.

Atmosphere is steamingly hot. Motor-cars and rickshaws
stand side by side — ancient and modern. Parsees clothed in white
hold sunshades over their heads as they sort out their possessions.
The Union Castle and Deutsche Ost-Afrika Linie offices form
prominent landmarks, and far beyond, the residential quarters peep
out from amid green coverings. Across the Bay, about a mile
away, the land has also many signs of commercial activity.

Lourenco Marques is the natural port for the Transvaal, as
Beira is for Rhodesia. The former is not only the finest harbour
on the coast, but also one of the richest and most progressive
possessions of Portuguese East Africa. Millions of pounds' worth
of merchandise pass through here annually.

Both these ports should belong to Britain, as we have a gigantic
amount of capital invested in the interior. I believe we have the
first right of pre-emption since the McMahon award of 1875 to
purchase Delagoa Bay in case Portugal should wish to dispose of
it. In time to come, when the exchequer of Portugal requires
replenishing either for future revolutions or other enterprises, we
may be able to annex these two coveted toll-gates to our colonies
whose outflow of wealth is fast enriching the Portuguese.

I go ashore and take a rickshaw. There are plenty of ways of
getting about. In the Public Square twelve or fourteen motor-cars
ply for hire, the tariff being 1000 reis a course. Not expensive.
Well-turned-out carriages are easily obtainable, and clean electric

'43

A Woman's Winter in Africa

trams conduct you all over the town, spread out on spacious lines.
A pleasant run is to the local beauty spot, Reuben Point, the
fares amounting to 2s.

My rickshaw boy sped through a narrow street in which were
many bars, and where small shops eked out a miserable existence.
He dumped me down en face of a rather new-looking monument
of grey stone. A bearded bronze figure of a patriot faces the Bay,
and on the base one reads :

" A ANTONIO ENNES,
A PROVINCIA DE MOZAMBIQUE,
FOR SUBSCRIPICA PUBLICO.
8 DE SETEMBRO DE IQIO."

This testimonial to the benefactor was simple yet elegant in
design, but the garniture of the Plaza surrounding the memorial
looked dry and brown. A few shrubs had been planted, but these
wore an unhealthy look, and the general air of lassitude about the
place was in sharp contrast to the shrieking business of the docks
as they panted and groaned at the command of steam derricks,
modulated by the sing-song of native labourers. At Lourenro
Marques the Portuguese have imported the same decorative pave-
ments as at their capital. Mosaics of black and white stones in a
waving pattern, others in clover-leaf design, remind one of the
various squares of Lisbon, or Lisboa, as they spell it. I walk past
open cafes, invitingly clean, and find myself in the main street.
Shops, although small, show a practical selection of the necessities
of the country, while one — Robinson's, purveyor for ladies — rather
blatantly announces, itself "The centre of fashion." I made
a few purchases, finding the tradespeople most polite and speaking
fair English. Prices do not rule as high as in Rhodesia, but
counting up these millions of reis is a nuisance ; about seven
thousand being the equivalent to £i in English money. Streets,
while not being devoid of interest, were not unique. A tram
passed at the moment. I boarded it, not knowing in the least
its destination. 1 thought it did nut matter, as I should understand
better the position of the town.

This tram ran uphill through very poor quarters. Small
houses, built of tin, painted red, have windows and eloors wide

144

Lourcnco Marques

open, which show meagre furnishing inside, consisting mainly of
wooden tables and wicker chairs. After whirling around corners
the tram stopped abruptly at its terminus, the fronl of a larg<
cemetery. The officious conductor came, and with elaborate
gestures indicated I should descend. This 1 steadfastly refused to
do and clung to my seat, not wishing to pay calls in the early
morning even to people always " at home."

Having had an invitation to drive in the afternoon and be shown
the entire town by a Portuguese officer, 1 retraced my steps to
that comfortable marine hotel, s.s. General. At four 1 again
started, this time in
a smart victoria and
pair, with my host to
explain things. We
drove along the fam-
ous Avenue Francisco
Costa, past comfort-
able-looking houses,
flowering shrubs, and
trees. This promen-
ade on a height con-
veys one seven miles,
the prospect of which
lies like a switch-back
before one's eyes.

The European pop-
ulation comprises
about 5000, with double that number of natives. Some time
ago Lourenco Marques was considered one of the most fever-
stricken holes on the coast, but the draining and filling up of
swamps have changed this ; malarial fever is rapidly vanishing.
At Reuben Point a new hospital has been built, finished only
last year. The wards have a splendid outlook, being ever
cooled by the ocean breezes. They are equipped with every
modern improvement. Various quarters for Europeans and
natives will house 600 ; and there is accommodation for the rich
who desire a suite de luxe ; also for those who exist upon
charity.

At the Hotel Cardozo, on the Point, one finds every convenience,
also a charming garden with beautiful views and an excellent

K 145

W KOVS.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

cuisine from 12s. 6d. per day pension. Other hotels are the
Central, the Grand International, and Savoy.

One unique possession of this progressive place is that of a
Chinese Temple with a priest residing on the premises who con-
ducts its services. The public buildings, railway station, post and
telegraph offices, rank with the best in South Africa. Land is very
valuable, many speculators having acquired plots and holding out
for big prices. There is also a good supply of water. The town
has electric light.

We next drove to Polana Beach. During the season many
people from the Transvaal pass their holidays at this beautiful
place. The road is macadamized, but shows wide belts of bright
red earth, which colour is peculiar to Africa. The white-flecked
breakers form an unforgettable picture. Polana Beach is as spick-
and-span as our own seaside resorts. There is a large enclosure
for swimmers, absolutely shark-proof, well furnished with diving
boards, rafts, and all safeguards. Many of its patrons are now
enjoying the waves in the afternoon sunlight. There is a cafe,
while a large hotel will soon be built on the beach, and should
prove a paying venture at this beautiful retreat.

On the way back through the best residential quarter, one
remarks the large white house of the British Consul, and the
extensive premises of the headquarters of the Government of
Portuguese East Africa. Here the Governor dispenses generous
hospitality.

Of sport there is no limit. The tennis court, situated in the
Public Gardens, forms a popular rendezvous for afternoon tea
and chat.

Obviously Lourenco Marques has a great future before it.

DON'TS BY " IMP"

Don't miss the beach — but it's not at all necessary to visit the
cemetery.

146

CHAPTER XXII

Durban

A 1 seven in the morning I hear a rap at my cabin door. " Please
l\ appear before the immigration officer, " says the steward.
Being an old traveller, accustomed to urgent summonses by health
and port guardians, and remembering Panama, where at 5 a.m. one
is called, I have thought out a hasty costume to be donned on all
such trying occasions. A skirt, a long coat, and a motor scarf to
' wrap round one's head make quite a respectable combination.

At Durban the large official sheet, which you have previously filled
up, should leave no private secrets of your life undiscovered ; but
that is not sufficient, it is requisite to inspect one with official eyes,
so to speak. After being passed by the urbane officer I retire to
make a complete toilet, and when I appear at breakfast find all
ports are closed, the atmosphere decidedly stuffy, deck awnings
down, and everyone in a flutter to get ashore. We are veritably
surrounded by floating islands of coal ; and, considering the
coaling appliances have the capacity of loading 400 tons an hour
at this wharf, conditions can be imagined.

The first thing that struck me upon landing was the toggery of
the Zulu rickshaw boys, who stand expectantly waiting a fare.
Surely they have attended a fancy dress ball, I thought, and have
forgotten to change. Their costumes are grotesquely barbaric
beyond all description. There are perhaps a dozen of them
standing about, but to my unaccustomed eye their adornments
are beyond words. The boy I selected had bare feet, on which,
and up nearly to the knees, was painted in whitewash a lacelike
stocking with embroidery at the top, and boots. I am not sure
that this method of drawing imaginary stockings on bare legs is
not more practical than our own. It is certainly cooler, and saves
laundry bills, also the wear and tear of fine hosiery !

He wore short trousers fluttering with red ribbons, and bits of
embroidery harmoniously matched a betrimmed shirt. On his head
my warrior poised a pair of immense horns, painted bright red, and

A Woman's Winter in Africa

from them, an aureole, sprang a shower of stiff porcupine quills,
descending down his back — a cornucopia of plenty holding an
avalanche of coloured feathers. Across his shoulders was slung
a variety of fur tails. If only this costume had appeared at one of
the recent Albert Hall balls what a furore it would have created !
Never have I seen in any part of the world savages more wonder-
fully arrayed than
these Zulus, each one
dressed to suit his own
individual taste. The
bead necklaces and
plaited wire bracelets,
anklets, and fallals
which they put on,
notwithstanding the
heat and their fatigu-
ing labour in hauling
one about, strike the
traveller as extraor-
dinary, and one can
picture the droll effect
as several run in pro-
cession down the main
streets.

When I arrived at
the Marine Hotel the
porter said I was to
give the burly fineried
one sixpence. I gave
him ninepence, where-
upon he howled for
more, and had to be
shown into the street
with a threatened kick. I felt rather sorry for him, and pre-
sume he thought his elaborate get-up entitled him to an extra fare.
Out here the white woman must be stern and keep natives in their
place — there is trouble enough with the blacks all over Africa.
The thought occurred to me that the history of France would in
all probability have been changed had not the fierce Zulus attacked
and killed the Prince Imperial in this very land.

148

RICKSHAW BUY:

AT DC KUAN.

I )urban

The Murine Hotel, which they tell you is the besl oul of a
numerous list, has a splendid situation on the Esplanade, over-
looking the Bay,which ensures a breeze at all hours. It was buill
during the Boer War, ami has l.een the scene of many important

political discussions. It has housed the most celebrated personages
of recent times.

Among its distinguished visitors have been H.R.H. the Duke of
Connaught and family, the ill-fated Crown Prince of Portugal, the
Right Honourable Joseph Chamberlain, Lord Selborne, General
Botha, Christian de Wet, and others who have made history. The
hotel is most comfortable in every way — spacious rooms, many
of which are encircled by deep stone balconies, from which a
superb view of the bay is obtained. The attendance and food
are distinctly good, and altogether it forms an ideal place for a
long sojourn. Prices range from 15s. 6d. per day upward.

Durban has a large choice of hotels and boarding-houses,
which should suit the purse and taste of all. 'The Royal, which is
considered excellent, is in Smith Street, facing the Square, the
Town Hall, and Post Office. This hotel has a grill-room and
restaurant for non-residents. The Ocean View, situated high in
gardens on the Musgrave Road, has an air of quietness which
many people appreciate ; and the prices here are from 12s. 6d.
Then there are the Hotel Edward on the shore, Fern Villa, Beach
Hotel, and many others.

Durban itself is a model town, and needs no praise. To see it
is sufficient to content one. The following elaborate phrases have
been used to glorify its charms, and I think I cannot do better than
give them to you, and you can take your choice :

" Garden City of the South," " Delightful Durban," " Play-
ground of the Sub-continent," " Pearl of the Indian Ocean,"
' Queen of South African Resorts," and " The Brighton of South
Africa." One and all are of the opinion that Durban is certainly
beautiful, with its deep bay, upon which the sails of small yachts
like white birds flit in the sunshine ; and as a suitable background
its high surrounding Bluffs of emerald, interlaced with light and
shadow, form a setting of changing colour, a worthy frame to the
gem itself.

Across the way is Salisbury Island, upon which the Government
is endeavouring to establish a depot for the Naval Volunteers. A
memorial has been erected on the point in honour of that great

149

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, for it was his eyes that
discovered this whole coast in his search for the land of Prester
John and the King of Calicut. Upon his arrival here on Christ-
mas Day, 1497, he named the country Natal. For some miles along
the front the Municipality have laid out an esplanade ; and its
wide macadamized walk, bounded by greensward and planted
with palms, pepper trees, aloes, mimosa, and various other tropical
plants, gives one an ever-changing panorama of the beauties of
bay and landscape.

As I walked down West Street, I thought that had I been blind-
folded, then suddenly the fold removed, and asked, " Where are
you?" I should have answered, "In some town in England."
How good it seemed to hear your own language, and to feel that if
you lost your way or asked a question you would be answered in
some familiar phrase ! The shops are very attractive, and you
can obtain all that you may require, and at practically the same
price as in London. In the Portuguese towns the smallest neces-
sary article was not to be found ; and even in the well-organized
towns of Tanga and Dar-es-Salaam nothing that European women
desire can be purchased.

People who are obliged to reside in these parts must bring enough
to last the usual two or three years, or ask friends to shop for them
at home and send things out. It was therefore delightful to re-
stock a few necessities. To see good chemists, photographers,
book-shops, tea-rooms, and stores for men and women was an
appreciated luxury.

At last I have been able to find two good curio shops, where
genuine Zulu and. Kaffir work can be bought. They show many
wonderful and weird objects — native beadwork, shields, assegais,
carved goods, calabashes, ju jus, bangles, arrows, necklaces, and
other curios too numerous to mention, besides ostrich feathers,
goldstone ornaments and Cape rubies.

" Imp " warned me not to spend too much money, but I have
a weakness for barbaric curios, and the good native work here
is not at all cheap. The shop I particularly recommend is : The
African Curio Company, 394 West Street.

Durban has probably the finest public buildings in Africa.
The Town Hall is a splendid architectural work, reminding one
very much of the equivalent building in Buenos Ayres. It was
erected at a cost of £300,000 and opened in 1910. The Assembly

l5°

GATHERING COCOANUTS.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Hall will accommodate over 3000 people. It also contains a
Library, Museum, and Art Gallery. The Post and Telegraph Office,
which was formerly the Town Hall, has a clock tower 164 feet
high, and is a landmark for miles around Durban. The Public
Library, churches, railway station, Drill Hall, Masonic Hall,
and all public offices are built of solid stone, brick, or granite.
No artificiality or stucco appears in their formation, and they are
quite worthy of our great cities. Drainage, water, and electricity
are laid down as at home ; and this is the first English town I
have visited along Africa where postmen deliver the mail at your
door. I was surprised to find the absence of this at Salisbury and
Bulawayo.

The tramway service is excellent, and very cheap ; also easy to
find, as the post office in the middle of the town is the terminus.
If one takes the car marked Marriott Road and the Berea one
passes through the main streets, past the racecourse, golf links, polo
and recreation grounds, and ascends the Berea. The charming
villa homes lying in the midst of gardens are likened to pearls set
in emeralds, and to look down on the town from the sloping banks
by night one seems to see the scene of a great celebration ; for
everywhere illuminations blaze.

All the streets have English names, Musgrave Road being
exceedingly pretty. In Gordon Road and Newmarket Street
large trees of oleander and bushes of hibiscus, flowering acacias,
and eucalyptus trim the neat and carefully tended gardens.
Occasional glimpses of blue sea in the distance make this Berea
tram ride one of the pleasantest and cheapest I have ever known.
One silly and annoying rule they have is that instead of paying
the amount of your ride at once, the conductor comes around
every mile and a half and demands 2d. Just as you begin to
get interested in the scenery you must fish in your purse for two
more pennies !

The tram takes a circular route, and lands you back again at
your starting-point. I again mounted a tram and went to Ocean
Beach. I place Durban as the third prettiest beach I have seen.
I think that Biarritz should be first, the formation of rocks there
giving it an advantage. Newport, Rhode Island, comes second.
This beach has a fine esplanade, kept spotlessly clean, and
harmless pools for children to enjoy themselves in, pretty shelters
built in the style of Kaffir kraals, a large semicircular iron pier

LS2

I >iirl>;m

argesl swimming

IW^IWftll8^¥(^*i**WBiBI'

enclosure, shark-proof, for bathers, and th<
pool ill the world.

It was a Sunday, and a pei fed day. Thousands of men, women,
and children wore diving through breakers, sliding down the high
water shoot into the pool, burying themselves with sand, and all
enjoying to the utmost the delights of nature. Horseback rides
were also indulged in. Ranged at the back stand a long line of
hotels, and on the beach one remarks the large restauranl oi the
Model Dairy Company, who supply refreshments at moderate
prices. It is open on most sides, and would seat hundreds of
people.

What a glorious sight
it was ! Ths magnifi-
cent beach with the
great white breakers
of the Indian Ocean
hissing and kissing the
golden sands. Moun-
tains of pale green
water rise up like de-
vouring monsters to
attack the sands, are
vanquished, then rein-
carnated in soft foam,
white as curd. On
the left side the green-
clothed Bluff blocks
wage war, while on the top of this the lighthouse and wireless
telegraph station stand like a candlestick.

The Bluff belongs to the Government, and there is an idea of
fortifying it. Along its sides in the deep jungle of shrub and trees
monkeys and snakes abound. I am told it is dangerous. The
Municipality are considering the project of extending the esplanade
as far as Umgeni Point, a further distance of two and a half miles,
and it is hoped that this improvement will be accomplished during
the next five years. One part of the beach recalls Folkestone.
There is a green lawn with many chairs having umbrella awnings;
and people dressed in their Sunday best sit and chat during
church parade.

On the other side of the Bluff is a large whale industry, with a

DURBAN BEAC

A Woman's Winter in Africa

factory for refining oil. The company has a fleet of twelve boats
resembling our North Sea trawlers ; in the season each crew
expects to capture two or three whales a clay. Their method of
attack is with the harpoon gun and explosives. There are many
sharks in these waters, and they tell me that often when they
haul the whales in they And them terribly mutilated by the sharks
during their helpless progress through the water. Another big
industry on the opposite side which is familiar to home people is
Messrs. Lever Brothers' Sunlight Soap manufactory, which has
assumed enormous proportions, employing hundreds of workers.
Sir William Lever, tlr: purchaser of that historic pile Stafford
House, has recently paid a visit to his works.

With theatres and amusements Durban is well supplied, and
such artists as Martin Harvey, and most of our best theatrical
representatives, have paid visits here. That charming artiste Miss
Margaret Cooper was playing at the Royalty Theatre.

Recently a unique event took place, the starting of " Springbok
Scott " and " Jock Armstrong " from the Town Hall on their self-
imposed task to walk overland to London by way of Egypt and
Turkey. They expect to cross sea only from Calais to Dover.
Mr. Scott, the champion walker, completed a io,jOO-mile walk
around South Africa, and after a rest of three months this inde-
fatigable athlete started again on an adventure which he con-
templates will last over two years. He had a great send-off during
a thunderstorm, and was accompanied some distance along the
Umgeni road by the Geordie Cummings bagpipes.

Patriotism and memorials have not been neglected in this
go-ahead town. In the Public Gardens a graceful figure of Queen
Victoria, executed in white marble, informs you : ' Victoria,
Queen and Empress. This statue was erected by the citizens
of Durban to commemorate the sixtieth year of the glorious reign
of their beloved Sovereign : a.d. 1837-1807." Directly facing the
Town Hall is a memorial to Sir John Robinson, k.c.m.g., first
Prime Minister of Natal. At its base is a profusion of red, white,
and blue blossoms. Another revered name in this Valhalla of
memories is a statue to the Right Hon. Henry Escombe, r.c, q.c,

LL.D., M.L.A., 1838-1899.

A pathetic record of bravery is shown by a bronze and granite
group, recalling the brave who fell in the war of 1899-1902. The
inserted tablets on the sides give the names of the heroes who

L54

I )urban

were killed. Mitchell Park, in which the zoological collection is
situated, and the splendid Botanical Gardens should be visited.
The famous dry dock and Wool Exchange would be of interest to
many.

I visited the Coolie Market near the Mohammedan mosque.
Sometimes curios direct from the natives can be boughl al verj
low prices, and it is a medley of colour to watch the assemblage
of Indians, Chinese, Japanese, Zulus, Swazis, and Hottentol ,
Durban has rather more than its share of flowers and fruit. The
papau fruit, iced and with a sprinkle of lemon, which they serve
for breakfast in the hotel, is most refreshing; also the grenadilla,
placed with ice in a glass. The mangoes are smaller than at
Zanzibar. Other fruits are the orange, rose-apple, custard apple,
banana, guava, loquat, amatungulu, and avocada-pear.

One of the joys of travel is the finding of new things, giving the
eyes different views and the appetite diversified tastes. In what-
ever country f am I like to try the home products, whether it is a
certain " plat ' or a fruit. I remember being in Russia at a
dinner given at the restaurant of the Hermitage at Moscow,
which is considered the best and most expensive m Russia. The
maitre d'hotel had been interviewed, ami the result was a wonder-
ful meal of the favoured Russian dishes. We all enjoyed il im-
mensely except one English lady, who refused nearly everything,
and at last asked for a piece of cold beef. Now it is a cruelty and
a waste for people like that to travel — they simply martyrize
themselves and everyone else. It would be much better if they
remained at home, where ham and eggs and roast beef are always
available !

On my return to the General, after three days on shore, my
fellow-voyagers declared unanimously that Durban had more than
fulfilled their expectations. At night, with the band playing, the
full moon pushing away and lighting up obtrusive clouds, Durban
faded out, its multitudes of lights resembling in the distance
a well-spread-out Milky Way.

" Imp" wishes to stay longer; although I should love to, I say
it is impossible.

One of the most delightful pilgrimages, and one which no
traveller should miss, is a visit to the Trappist Monastery, or

155

A Woman's Winter in Africa

' Mariannhill Mission," at Mariannhill. It is situated amid lovely
rural surroundings about twenty miles from Durban. Captain
Fielder, whose kindness and courtesy have been appreciated by
hosts of voyagers on the General, invited Her Excellency Madame
Schnee and myself to motor to this interesting abode of the
monks.

In flying quickly over the country one realizes why Natal has
been called the " Garden Colony." The roads are good on the
whole. Wherever you look over the softly rolling downs banana,
papau, and palm trees wave in the sea breezes, and long lines of

MARIANNHILL. TRAPI'IST MONKS.

opulent farms stretch themselves over the landscape. We pass
Pine Town on the way, with several small hotels, and see wagons
drawn by eight pair of mules. Also a great many Indians, the
women in orange and magenta cotton, burdened with nose rings,
bracelets, and anklets. A sign-post shows the way to New German
Town, where there has recently been established a German
agricultural colony.

On arriving at the Monastery we pass through a substantial
portico and gateway of red brick trimmed with white. A large
tablet representing the Madonna and Child in white marble is

156

Durban

framed over the entrance. The Master Father greets us, his
contented countenance and quid smile speaking 01 the peace lie
has found in his life and benevolent work. Graciously welcoming
us, he says he will be delighted to show this extensive retreat, whose
followers have been doing good deeds in secret lor more than
thirty years.

We inquired if the brothers were allowed to speak, and our
genial Samaritan confided : ' Yes, our Order permits us to
converse now, but when I first became a disciple of the Faith
we remained silent. I never talked for twenty-five years."
[magine this ! The isolation of spirit, the continual prayers, the
long days from sunrise till sunset filled by hard work with never
any recreation. One asks oneself, "Does the God who we are
told is compassionate and full of love for His children demand
such iron handed sacrifice ? " I say no.

This estate covers some thousands of acres, and every industry
and art has its department, presided over by the Brother whose
tastes and ability qualify him to take charge. They have many
black boys under them, to whom they teach trades, making them
useful workmen. The principal Father, who conducts our party,
wears white with a wide black stole back and front. The Brothers
don a brown garment and black stole, and nearly all are bearded.
Our first halt was to watch the monks hewing granite. When
completed these huge blocks will form a monument to the founder,
Abbot France, whose portrait, depicting a calm, gentle face, we
afterwards saw in the museum.

A large blacksmithery stood with hospitable open doors.
Forges blazed and red-hot iron was being turned. A holy-faced
monk busied himself making keys by a window through which a
singularly beautiful valley of green revealed itself. The next
building was a carpenter's shop, showing practical furniture,
every piece hand-made ; and here they were also building heavy
ox-carts. In each department were the blacks who were being
taught the trades which would make them clever, useful men.
Zulus who came from the dense bush were by patient teaching of
the monks converted into clever craftsmen. The photographic
gallery should not be missed, as here one discovers hundreds of
interesting views, and intimate knowledge of the Kaffir home
life.

The artistic Brother who is responsible for this building is not

157

A Woman's Winter in Africa

content with camera effects, but is also a marvellous worker in
stained glass. The material itself comes out from Germany in
sheets, but is cut and put together in charmingly original designs.
The Brothers have constructed all the windows for their church,
besides those for several in Natal. This community is German, the
headquarters being in Bavaria, the Fathers and Brothers speaking
both German and English, also French ; and one cannot help
wondering how they retained their ; linguistic abilities after the
many years of enforced silence.

The miscellaneous collection accumulated in the museum defies
description. An enormous number of large frogs reposing in spirit
jars, dreadful snakes, including the deadly " Black Mamba," a
golden mole, small fox mice, dozens of scorpions — yellowy brown
and black, with their elongated tail and tiny tip from which they
exude their poison — all are there. Tovely birds are splendidly
mounted ; and Kaffir curios in very-well-done bead work. Some
pieces of rock with Bushmen painting I found most interesting, the
colours of the dark red men on brown stone striking me as unlike
anything I had ever seen before.

Another remarkable wriggly being in a bottle was brought out.
The monks were experimenting on this species, which proved to be
a newly discovered spider, which kills and eats frogs. The long
Latin name of it I could not catch. There were cases of bugs,
insects, and an assemblage of the most gloriously coloured butter-
flies, the green Queen moth being especially remarkable. Coins,
some of them old Hebrew, a whole family of watches, one dated
London, 1582, and a map of primitive Africa during the period of
1770 completed this original museum, which will live in memory's
page for years to come.

' But we have not yet finished," asserted our guide with his
sympathetic smile. And he led us to the bakery. The odour of
freshly baked loaves was delicious, and made me feel quite hungry.
The bread was white, and that made with mealies a shade darker ;
but the dimensions were colossal, each loaf measuring a yard long
and a foot high. Every assistant was scrupulously clean, and the
great ovens glowed as the loaves were shoved in and out. The
vegetable gardens of the monks have attained great renown, for
they supply an immense quantity to the householders of Durban.
We saw the tannery, with lizard, crocodile, and calf skins drying, and
watched the evolution from hide to fashionable, well-made boots
158

I >urban

and shoes. The saddlery department turned ou1 harness <»t every
description, strongly sewn and capable of durability.

The sun was very warm although a breeze was blowing. Oui
benign Father insisted that we should next visit their dining-
dormitory and partake oi refreshment. One hundred and twi nty
Fathers and Brothers dine there. A table had been laid for us.
Everything was very simple, but beautifully clean and appetizing.
Bread, several kinds of delicious cakes which the Sisters had sent
down, and excellent red wine made by the monks themselves were
served.

DINING-ROOM OF THE TRAPP1STS.

In the two schools on the estate the Mission are educating
five hundred children, halt of whom are boys in charge of the
Brothers, and the remainder of the opposite sex arc taken care of by
the Sisters, whose establishment is but a short distance away. After
inspecting the church, which is a new and modern structure of brick,
the holy pictures on the walls depicted in bright colours to please
th : native mind, we passed on to interview the Mother Superior.

When the Holy Father showed us the font he remarked :
" Although we wash them in white water, yet the black does not
come off." We took our motor, the Father accompanying us, and

159

A Woman's Winter in Africa

drove to the Convent. The Mother Superior was presented to us,
and she told me that she was born in New York State. She went
to London, then lived in Belgium, and for twenty years has done
her charitable work in Natal. She was charming, and the sweet
placidity of her features bespoke the purity of her heart.

Every moment of her day while the light lasts is occupied in the
great achievement she has set herself to accomplish — the teaching
to work and the enlightening of the black girls to become useful
and self-respecting women. Her uniform, which we considered
most becoming, was of the German colours — dark red dress, black
stole, and large white cap. The Mother sadly communicated to us
that by rule of the Order these colours, which had become en-
deared to them by many years' use, were about to be changed, and
grey substituted as the principal colour scheme. The achievement
of these Sisters, hidden away amongst the hills of Natal, deserves
to be recorded.

We were shown their workrooms. Picture a long corridor with
fifty sewing-machines in a double row each side. These machines
are run by motor power, and the moment the feet touch the pedal
sewing commences. By a pressure of the knee the needles release
the cloth. In an outer room we were shown the motor, which was
efficiently run by a sweet-faced nun. The Father jokingly called
her " the engine-driver."

Upstairs was a similar room, where upon long tables lay
stacks of rough khaki and jean cloth. The nuns have a
contract to supply clothing for the miners of the Transvaal,
consequently the garments must be of coarse and durable
material and make. On each table is a thickness of twelve
layers of cloth. Upon the face are chalk lines denoting shapes and
numbers. The raw Kaffir or Zulu girl takes a sharp knife, and, as
if she were paring cheese, cuts out the different portions of overalls
or suits — -each section being numbered and the joinings shown.
These are handed over to the machine-girl, and a suit is finished
in about half an hour — well done. The pockets and braces are
not only strongly sewn, but riveted as well by small brass clamps,
so that the material has to be torn out before a rip or rent can be
made.

Another industry is knitting. They have machines for this,
and the Sister informed me that a girl working the entire day
could knit one dozen pairs of stockings. They are also endeavouring

1 60

I )urban

to teach the girls the higher art of lace-making and embroidery. I
should like to have bought some lace as a souvenir of my visil , but

so popular has this industry become that all the lace available had
been privately ordered. They showed us some church banners
most marvellously embroidered, and copied from pictures of the
Saints.

I hope I have not bored my reader by too long an accounl of
the Mission ; but to see the place is to love it, and the genuinely
good work to which these kindly people devote their lives should be
recognized.

For the information of those who motor I may mention that the
price our chauffeur charged was £2 15s. for the car, with a tip of 5s.,
with which he was fully content.

l 161

CHAPTER XXIII
East London

THE s.s. General dropped anchor before East London about
three in the afternoon. Captain Fielder said we had better
not venture ashore until the morning, as often a squall drives up
the surf across the sand-bar leading to the entrance of the Buffalo
River, and over the long jetty, with such terrific force that it is
almost impossible to get back to the ship.

As it is the wool season we are taking on board enormous
quantities of soft bales, which th-?y tell me are ideal to handle as
cargo. We shall be obliged to wait here the greater part of two
days. From the steamer East London has a prepossessing
appearance. If you desire to keep your first opinion, my advice
is, Don't be disillusioned by going on shore !

The next morning Captain Fielder, Mr. and Mrs. Whitehouse,
world-wide American travellers, and myself entered the round
basket used in descending to the lurching, rollicking launch below,
which acted exactly like a drunken man. It is a very easy mode of
changing ship. Seven people occupy the large basket — standing.
They present a rather droll appearance as heads and hats protrude
above the rim of the unique carrier. Its door is firmly bolted, the
cargo officer waves his hand, a crane works, one is for the moment
suspended in mid-air by a cable cord, then very gently swung over
the side of the ship and dumped into the launch. The door
opens, and out you emerge, quite content that it has been no
worse.

1 had been through the same experience at Pernambuco, and
find it the most practical and safe manner of landing, especially
in water where sharks abound, and safer than the method adopted
in many waterways, where with the sea bounding ten feet or so
you grimly hold on to the rope, a quivering festoon. When the
word " Jump " comes you obey, not knowing whether you will
land into someone's friendly arms or at the bottom of a boat with a
sprained ankle. Possibly into that most roomy place — the sea !

162

East London

Our launch rolled its way to a jetty and breakwater, past a
dredging boat which was strenuously working to cat up sand,
and entered the Buffalo River. The channel is narrow, and
requires constant dredging. Big ships come up to dis< harge
cargo. There are two Castle Liners, and one of the Clan Line, hut
our ship requires deeper water.

As one enters the river the scenery becomes charming. I should
imagine that it increased in beauty farther up. Where there are
waterfalls it would be very picturesque. Just here,asthe local hooks
tell you, it in a measure looks like our Dartmouth, only not nearly
so artistic. We landed and took a carriage with two horses — 3s. 6d.
an hour was the cost. It is wise to order a conveyance beforehand,
otherwise you have to walk up a long dusty hill a considerable
distance from the town.

I am sorry I cannot say very much for the charms of East
London. After Durban, which was a model town in every way,
this place appeared crude, new, and ugly. My friend said
it was exactly like a primitive Australian town ; but as
I have never visited that vast country I cannot vouch for it.
We drove to the market square, where the most prominent
building was that of Messrs. Mosenthal and Co., Ltd. The square
had an air of desolation. Spans of eight and ten mules drew
wagon loads of merchandise which in Europe would require, I
think, two or three strong horses.

Although this is a very important place, and the frontier
port of Cape Colony, exporting and importing for the vast
lands of Transkei and native territories, the streets, houses,
and general population gave the impression that they knew
this was not home. They were obliged to remain here in
order to gain the wealth which they hoped would make them a
home in the Motherland. The gardens surrounding the painted
corrugated-iron dwellings were dry, and showed no taste or
enthusiasm of their owners. Very few really artistic or beautiful
houses were passed, although we went through countless streets.
Certainly a few hibiscus hedges and oleanders exhibited some
blooms, but even they looked drooping, as if demanding, " Why
should we bloom ? People do not appreciate us."

St. Peter's Road inaugurates the best residential quarter, then
Cemetery Road, Recreation Road, and Jubilation Road — this is
exactly as they run, and whether you are supposed to find recrea-

163

A Woman's Winter in Africa

tion and jubilation in or after the cemetery I leave you to judge
for yourselves. Of all the dreary ways since the nitrate ports of
South America, I have not encountered anything so bad.

We were a very amiable party, not prejudiced in any way, and
anxious to find something we could rhapsodize over. The one
remark which was universally reiterated was — " How different
from Durban ! ' I suppose it would not be well to have every
place beautiful. Certainly East London is a change. We passed
gigantic tin go-downs. The Texas Oil Co. throve.

The Belgrave Hotel was a dismal structure. Quite close were
two solidly built schools — one for girls, the other for boys. The
children whom we saw playing outside were splendid-looking
youngsters, and a credit to South Africa. Oxford Street was
inspected. This is their main street. The thoroughfare is wide,
with a very good tram service, which also leads down to the beach.
Some of the shops are good. Stephenson and Mitchell's is the best
drapery emporium. One curio shop I entered, but the price they
asked for ostrich feathers gave me the impulse to take a returning
ship to Paris, buy a stock, then come out here and re-sell them !

The Town Hall is quite a handsome building, with clock tower
in brick and white trimmings. In front of it a fine war memorial is
surmounted by a large bronze equestrian figure. I noticed two
small picture theatres. The Central Hotel, well recommended,
was gloomy, and needed a new coat of paint. Dyer and Dyer had
not a cheerful tone ! Palmerston House belittled its name, and
ugly small tin houses without a scrap of loveliness dominated all.
We drove to the market, which was entirely empty. I am fond of
markets, because there you see the fruits of the country. In the
shops I saw a few tiny pineapples, which they tell me are deliciously
flavoured, and many water-melons. I inspected the Queen's Park.
There everything was better — nice carriage drives, trees of every
description, flowers, oleanders, and hibiscus in hedges; glimpses
of lovely green hills, a garden where roses were dying from thirst,
and an ornamental brown water pond, with white swans apparently
quite contented. The Park must have been a great effort on the
part of the municipal bigwigs, and I willingly give them all praise.

Next we visited the beach, which by the generous aid of the
eternal tin has been evolved to thwart Nature's handiwork. A
dull woebegone building, which was labelled " Beach Hotel " in the
front and " Boarding House " on the back, gave you an idea of the

164

A Woman's Winter in Africa

accommodation. This seaside resort looked almost palatial from
our ship, but on closer inspection we found that the authorities
had done all in their power to spoil the symmetry of the beach.

They inform me that the grand season is about Christmas time, and
that thousands of people spend their holidays by the sea, bringing
their own tents for camping out. They certainly possessed a
Joy Wheel, and a something called a Mirror Hall. In the town
there were two picture theatres. Farmers journeying seawards
find this no end of a gay abode.

Amongst other crudities on the jaunty sands were a tin shelter
for natives, worded in black letters, " For Females Only," another
for "Males"; and a little farther, the splendid term "Ladies
Only." Who ever knew a black woman who did not call herself
a lady ? Consequently I should judge from what I know of their
natures that the latter shelter would be patronized to such an over-
crowded extent that suffocation would ensue. One could fancy the
language which one black lady would use to the other woman who
dared thrust her unwelcome presence upon the " elite of Society " !

The white population here registers 13,000. There are many
clubs and churches. Of water there is a large supply. Many
things favour East London, but as a tourist one wishes they would
cover their mean-looking tin residences with vines and green-
stuffs ; also expend a few more pennies in flower packets. It
would, I am sure, make them much happier : as they have plenty of
water there is no expense.

Instead of showing a town which resembles a bushmen's or
miners' camp, they could, with a small amount of trouble, cover
up their mean streets with profusions of flowers and change the
dreary aspect into a garden of beauty. I am sorry for East
London, but I must write the truth about the places I visit, and
have conscientiously done my best.

DON'TS BY " IMP "

Don't go ashore. Rather rest and read. It looks much more
attractive from your steamer chair.
Rest and laze.

166

CHAPTE R XXIV
Port Elizabeth

DOWN went the anchor, and up I hurried to see what Port
Elizabeth looked like from my ship. Whether I was still
sleepy or had dreamt of the East I do not know, but anyhow I
fancied from the distance it looked Oriental, though I found
afterwards that I was wrong. One sees lines upon lines of long
go-downs, most of them overflowing with wool, mohair, skins, and,
most beautiful of all, ostrich feathers ; for it is in this colony that
the haughty ostrich flourishes. Hundreds of farms in the interior
export these lovely millinery accessories to all the great centres of
the world. A bunch of white feathers plucked from the bird in his

RESIDENTIAL QUARTER.

natural environment may in two months' time be waving on the
hat of a Society lady driving in the Palermo at Buenos Ayres,
or be held as a fan to refresh the slumbers of some important

Maharani in India.

What stories of joy and tragedy these feathers could tell
were they possessed of human power as they journey on through
their career, and, like some fallen beauties, eventually, when thin,
begrimed, and old, end their despoiled days in slums! Harriet
loves her feathers and clings to them, no matter how straight or

167

A Woman's Winter in Africa

dishevelled they have become. Can anything be softer, whiter,
or more beautiful than masses of these magnificent adornments ?
I have seen pounds and pounds of them in the shops, feathers
averaging about a hundred to a pound, and varying in price from
£25 to £50 and £60.

Ostrich feathers have had Royal favour since our earliest
historical records. A feather was the emblem of sovereignty in
the days of the Pharaohs ; Rameses the Great showed them in his
cartouche ; the Queen of Sheba, we read, wore them on her visit
to King Solomon, while he in his turn showed her the marvels of
gold from his wonderful Land of Ophir.

From the Ptolemaic period Cleopatra has left us a picture
unforgettable as she reclined clothed in golden tissue, the purple
silk sails of her dahabeeyah swaying gently, and her slaves fan-
ning the beautiful Queen with Royal feather fans. So feathers
have figured down the centuries of chronicled time to the present
day, where they show prominently in the coat-of-arms of our
Prince of Wales.

I took a launch to the jetty, and at first glance discovered that
Port Elizabeth was in no way related to East London. Here
everything was gilded in up-to-dateness, clean, bright, vigilant.
Long warehouses spelt wealth ; the fine main street, a moment's
walk from the jetty, meant enterprise. In the Square a Lown
Hall costing £26,000, built in Renaissance style, with clock tower,
creditably upheld the prestige of progressive success. Facing it
an obelisk in reddish granite towers triumphantly, the base of
which is a commodious drinking fountain for animals.

Across the Market Square a splendid library, a Mecca for
readers, of some 45,000 volumes, charms the literary taste of the
public. In front of this stands a more than life-sized statue of
Queen Victoria in marble. In the Square, as already remarked,
stand eight span of oxen drawing a comparatively small load.
This I cannot understand, but probably the roads are bad in
the interior and the distances great.

It is quite comfortably cool to-day, and most refreshing to those
who have passed six weeks in the real tropics. I dislike that
sensation, when you are doing your hair in the morning and trying
to get it up, and the strands cling fast to your shoulders and stick,
refusing to move until nearly torn out ! I am sure a good deal
of it is outrooted.

168

Port Elizabeth

This morning at breakfast the Captain, officers, and steward
laid aside their white linens and came out in blue serge. It
was a relief to me once more to wear serge myself. The end
of February in this part of the world C equivalent to early
autumn at home. The fruit is certainly most inviting. I passed
several shops in which large ripe melons, peaches, grapes, and
pines spoke of a plentiful harvest. I was sorry to hear this
morning that the mangoes were giving out on board. They had
been brought out from Zanzibar and Dar-es-Salaam, and were in
perfect condition. Nothing is more refreshing in a hot climate than
an iced mango. It is a pity this fruit is not more easily obtainable
at home.

I next directed myself to the wool market, which on certain
days is also the feather market. It is a huge enclosed structure
with a gallery, from which, looking down, one saw thousands of
bales of this useful material, many of which are open for
inspection. An auction was going on in one corner, the workmen
who handled the bales wearing long blue cotton garments to prevent
the wool from adhering to their clothes.

On one side of the wool market an immense concert hall
opens out, containing a very hue organ. It was here that
Madame Clara Butt and Mr. Kennerley Rumford gave their
concert when recently they visited South Africa. There is a
large Opera House, and near it several theatres ; also an arcade,
artistically built, with a long night of steps and shops on either
side. Some of the streets running up to the residential quarter
are very steep.

The Standard Bank of South Africa is a fine building, and
there are many others. One of the first names you read upon
landing is Mosenthal and Co., wool merchants. Obviously
they reign here as well as at East London. Churches
exist of every denomination, and Port Elizabeth excels by
being the only town on the coast which owns a real Hindoo
temple. This small white place of worship is down in the valley
through which about four years ago the floods caused such havoc,
carrying houses away to the sea as the waters rushed along in their
maddened heedless career.

I took a carriage and drove along the main street, which was filled
with well-dressed, prosperousdooking people, who were splendid
representatives of their race. The shops were a credit to any large

169

A Woman's Winter in Africa

city, and it appeared that one could find almost anything one
desired. Old familiar names followed me, and gave a homelike
touch — Sunlight Soap, Mazawattee Tea, Zebra Polish, Reckitt's
Blue. I can't think what Sir Thomas Lipton is doing, for I
certainly saw no sign emblazoning Lipton 's Tea ! This fact should
receive immediate attention ! The main street, after being
respectable for some miles, eventually ends in a slum, and is
crowded with warehouses, while the breakers literally lick their
back doors.

" Imp " likes this place, and as I am alone to-day, the Spirit
of Travel is beside me. We now ascend " The Hill," and look
upon the residential region. The wide macadamized streets,
the trees shading the side-walks, hundreds of artistic houses with
clean, well-kept grounds, make this part homeland indeed. The
flowers are lovely. Large trees of pink and white oleander,
bougainvillaea, hedges of hibiscus, and roses decorate and beautify
these gardens and homes. It would appear from their cheerful
exteriors that each inhabitant had thought out to the best of his
ability how to please the eye of resident and traveller.

Rosebery Avenue, Dickens Street, Cape Road, Park Drive,
Warmer, and several other routes would be pleasant places to
reside in. At the end of Cape Road was the Golf Links, with eighteen
holes. It possesses a fine inland view. Nazareth House, with its
convent and schools surrounded by pepper trees and pines, looked
a peaceful retreat. In St. George's Park I much admired the
monument over the reservoir in terra-cotta to the memory of the
officers and men who died in the Transkei in 1877, and Basutoland
in 1880-1881.

At times the fountains play here, with rainbow effects which
are really lovely. A unique statue a short distance beyond
I considered well worth noticing: It was a large stone drinking-
fountain, and on its top a soldier in bronze was holding a
bucket of water to his jaded horse. Both figures were splendidly
designed, and underneath the natural rock was written : ' The
greatness of a nation consists not so much in the number of its
people or the extent of its territory as in the extent and justice
of its compassion " ; below this under the ever-running water
were these words : " Erected by public subscription in recognition
of the services of the gallant animals which perished in the Anglo-
Boer War 1899-1902." It struck me as a happy sentiment to

170

Port Elizabeth

remember the dumb beasts who did their pari as valiantly as
their masters. How many thousands of horses have Lef1 theii
bones to whiten on battle-fields with no memorial to mark their
sacrifice! I had never before seen any recognition of these
services.

I next went to Bunton's Grand Hotel, which is spoken of as the
best. It certainly was clean and comfortable-looking, with a nice
view of the sea. Across the road is Donkin Reserve, from which,

£*■

IN MEMORY OK THE ANIMALS WHICH
PERISHED IN THE BOXR WAR.

looking down on the sea, our ship and the Walmer Castle appeared
like children's launches. Here stands a tall white lighthouse, and
a pyramid-shaped monument in brown stone built to the memory
of Lady Donkin, which is inscribed : ' One of the most perfect
human beings, who has given her name to the town below."
The terms are certainly eulogistic. Lady Donkin was the wife of
Sir Rufane Donkin, the first Governor; it was he who at the
head of a small colony landed here in 1820 and established Port
Elizabeth, the Liverpool of South Africa.

171

A Woman's Winter in Africa

We shall be delayed two full days. In East London we took
on 2000 bales of wool, and now the cranes are vigorously gathering
seven and eight sacks at a bite and depositing them below. Verily,
the space of a ship's hold is limitless. Port Elizabeth is blessed
inasmuch as there is no fever, and it is considered distinctly
healthy. The proof of this may be read in the faces of rosy-cheeked
children whom one sees playing about, even in the primitive
quarters of the negroes.

They have taken the trouble to cultivate the homely but
decorative sunflower, which excels itself in these small gardens,
and various flowering creepers drape themselves around their tin
houses, lending a touch of primitive beauty. The Port Elizabeth
Club is a handsome structure, large, and with double verandah.
Opposite the Donkin Reserve are the newly-built King Edward
Mansions, commanding a splendid view. These are residential
flats, and catering is clone on the premises, altogether making a
charming abode.

Thus Port Elizabeth, with its splendid situation, clean health-
sheet, pleasant homes, unmistakable wealth and progress, makes
the English traveller proud of its 20,000 inhabitants. In their
turn they should venerate the memory of their ancestral pioneers
for choosing this fortunate site on which to establish one of the
finest towns of the sub-continent.

172

CHAPTER XXV

( 'aptain Fielder and the s.s. tl General"

THE General is the last addition to the Fleet of the Deutsche
Ost-Afrika Linie, with the exception of the Tabora. She
is 8000 tons, and is one of the most luxurious and up-to-date
steamers afloat — especially designed for the tropics. The General
has extraordinary advantages over other ships, for she is fitted
with the new process to prevent sea-sickness, the anti-rolling
tanks. These tanks have proved to be very successful in their
steadying capabilities, and one feels little motion, even in the
roughest seas. They are built into the ship three feet above the
false bottom, and 40 feet long, 17 feet deep, and 15 feet wide. The
space for 360 tons of cargo must be sacrificed to this new invention.
Water is pumped into these huge receptacles, 140 tons being
required to keep the equilibrium. As the ship sways the water
surging through its various compartments rights the vessel from
side to side, and preserves a nearly even balance.

This method las been tried on some of the great German liners
crossing to America, but to be entirely successful the tanks must
be constructed into the steamer when it is built. The cabins have
been thought out with great consideration for comfort. The one
I occupy is an ordinary first -class room. On the floor a dark red
carpet of a soft thick weave is spread. The berths are not built one
over the other, in the old-fashioned style, but one is placed alongside
and the other to the back following the wall. Over each, in a white
and gold china receptacle, electric light blazes, which is really ex-
cellent and placed conveniently < iver y< >ur 1 lead for reading purposes,
the switch not being, as is usual, at the other extremity of the cabin.

For bed, door, and port are curtains of white cotton with red,
white, and black borders — the German colours. Two racks, one
for books and one to hold light articles, hang on the wall. A small
picture — mine is a knight in armour riding over sand-dunes
gives a homelike aspect. In all the ships of this line each cabin
has its art representative. It affords amusement in visiting our
friends to see what they possess in the way of pictures. A shell

A Woman's Winter in Africa

table stands by your couch under the port. An electric fan and
plenty of hanging hooks one finds most useful.

There are two wardrobes ; in the door of each is a panel mirror,
where it is possible to see your waist. In many of the ships on
which I have made my temporary home it was impossible to
see how to adjust one's belt or the hang of a gown. The wash-
stands are very similar to those on other ships. We have an
innovation, however. Nickel-plated brackets hold white china
bowls for sponge and toothbrushes. These are particularly easy
to keep clean, permitting the air to dry and purify them. Alto-
gether these cabins are very comfortable.

The dining-saloon has small and large tables to accommodate
different parties. The walls are faced with greyish-coloured
marble, not only giving a cool effect in these hot climates, but also
hygienic, as it can be kept clean. An elegant frieze of black and
white storks, Japanese in design, is mosaicked into the marble.
Mirrors, an abundance of electric lights, and flower-laden tables
make a gay scene at dinner. The kitchens and serving-pantries
opposite are wide open, passengers convincing themselves that in
this department all is as it should be. Up a wide staircase,
panelled with marble and mirrors, one enters the Palm Lounge.
This is indeed a pleasant spot in which to linger. The skylight
has trails of ivy and from it hang pots of ferns and climbers.

Numerous palms, cro tons, and tropical plants decorate the marble
sides. Deep, comfortable cane chairs with cushions surround
small tables. Here coffee is served. Opening out of the Lounge
on one side is the ladies' drawing-room. This is furnished with
Chippendale chairs, a piano, and writing-tables. At the other
end are the cabins de luxe, in which are two bedsteads, marble
wash-basins, a table, sofa, chairs, and connecting a bathroom with
every modern convenience. In walking along the wide promenade
deck one comes to the smoking-room ; this also is finished in grey
marble. The table is excellent — the most fastidious traveller could
find little to grumble at on the General.

Nearing Cape Town, Cape Agulhas is passed. This name means
"Needles," and makes one think of a very different " Needles " on our
own coast. How long the voyage in rounding the Cape must have
seemed to that great Portuguese explorer Da Gama ! His tiny ships
would hardly dare to venture far in these days of bombs and
aeroplanes !

174

a
w

CHAPTER XXVI

Cape Town

TO those who love beautiful scenery I should like to recom-
mend their being on deck as the steamer threads her way
along this magnificent high mountainous coast. It was a moon-
light evening, with a strong wind blowing ; this latter is a frequent
visitor in this part of the world. The dark, turbulent waters, with
angry seething foam, gave the impression of a sea of molten iron
as some friends and myself clung to the rail, too fascinated by the
grandeur of the scene to go below, although it was very cold and
past midnight.

The dazzling beacons of lighthouses winked and flashed, showing

CAPE TOWN FROM THE DISTANCE.

the way, and passing us on to sister-lights. Moonlight shining
on the clouds made it look as though the mountains were covered
with snow. Point after point was left behind, and several bush
fires lighted up the mountains, giving a firework effect. Table
Mountain and the Lion's Head stand out in bold defiance against
a spangled sky. I wondered if it was on a night like this that Da
Gama sailed these waters ; and, if so, what were his emotions.

The scene would have made a splendid setting for the adventures
of Aladdin or the Count of Monte Cristo. Now, like a strand of

176

Cape Town

yellow jewels spread over the land, the lights of (ape Town are
visible. Then they become brighter and more individual. A large
object floats by, blotting out our view for an instant. It is the
s.s. Gertrude Woermann hastening homeward.

A harsh grating noise disturbs our silence and tells us thai the
anchor is being lowered. We are very cold from that south-eastei
playing about us, and seek our cabins to fall asleep, anticipating
the pleasure of exploring town to-morrow.

Sixteen happy days have expired, during which I have been
kept extremely busy seeing Cape Town ; and although I worked
conscientiously I fear it requires a much longer stay to realize all
its beauties, or to give an adequate idea of the capital of our
oldest colony in South Africa. However, I will endeavour to give
my impressions of what is considered the right thing to do and
see from a tourist's point of view.

I stayed at Mount Nelson Hotel, which is situated at the foot
of Table Mountain. It possesses nice grounds, in which they could
with advantage place a few more seats. Without doubt, this
hotel is the finest in Cape Town, also in the entire colony. Its
public rooms are fair, the dining-rcom very nice, the food and
service good. It has a laundry, which for a traveller is a blessing ;
but although well-managed and up-to-date, prices are heavy. The
guide-book quotes pension at 15s. ; but I presume these fine terms
refer to servants' rooms, or are above coal cellars or under eaves !
At any rate, they were undiscoverable, and 17s. 6d. and 18s'. 6d.
seemed to be the minimum price for a small, uncomfortable
bedroom .

This is the most fashionable hotel on the coast, and frequented
by Members of Parliament and their ladies. Many dinner parties
and sccial gatherings take place. The Company should, how-
ever, give more space to wardrobe accommodation. A woman gets
cross when she must continually gown herself smartly, and hang
six or seven dresses on one hook ! There is no private bathroom
in this hostelry even for African millionaires. Still, they desire
tourists to leave the Riviera and winter here.

The manager and his wife do all in their power to make guests
comfortable, but it is not their province to spend the capital of
the Company in redecorating rooms or buying wardrobes. One
very nice thing in connection with the restaurant was the lavish

M I

/ /

A Woman's Winter in Africa

supplv of fruit. It being the harvest season — March — this was
plentiful, and with every meal an excellent dish was served,
comprising delicious grapes, black and white, rigs, nectarines,
plums, and peaches. Also different kinds of melons, which every-
one seemed to appreciate. The dining-room was wainscoted with
oak, and had a high arched ceiling ; and the beautiful glimpses of
Table Mountain made splendid pictures.

It is extremely pleasant on these autumn days, which are as

CAPE TOWN WITH LION MOUNTAIN.

warm as summer, to walk through the hotel grounds, cross the
road, and enter Government Avenue. This shady, lovely 'way
was laid out with oak trees some two hundred years ago by
Governor van der Stel, and the present generation should bless
his name. For three-quarters of a mile stately oaks climb to a
great height, embracing the boughs opposite, forming a splendid
colonnade of refreshing green.

On one side is Government House, a long rambling structure
with hedges of the decorative plumbago, covered with a profusion

i78

( 'ape Town

of turquoise! flowers. I do not know if we have it in England,
but out here there are miles of its attractive beauty. ( rovernmenl
House at present looks deserted, Their Excellencies being away.
Through the trees the Parliament buildings show handsomi
frontages, claiming to be the finest and most important structures
in South Africa. They arc built of red brick, generously trimmed
with Pearl granite

As Parliament was sitting, and I had a pass, I entered and
listened for a short time to the speeches. The Bill under dis-
cussion related to the Union Castle S.S. Co., and their rights of
mail, freight, and time. It was exceedingly interesting to hear an
Englishman's discourse followed by a speech in Dutch. Finally
that able statesman Mr. Merriman, tall, thin, with a refined and
deeply-thinking face, arose. Every eye was turned to him, and
where but a moment before lethargy was most noticeable all were
alert, and keen animation depicted. Mr. Merriman in a humorous
mood slated them, cutting up with kindly ridicule the suggestions
of those who had spoken, until their utterances appeared mere
child's talk. After his efficient and skilful harangue the House
adjourned.

Having some time, I strolled into the Municipal Botanical
Gardens, which are fourteen acres in extent, and comprise over
eight thousand varieties of trees and plants, also orchids and
flowers from all over the earth.

Everything at Cape Town suffers from fierce south-easters.
Even the gardens do not escape. Bushels of ripe acorns were
scattered about, children arriving with baskets to gather them.
The eucalyptus is as at home here as in Australia ; and the Prince
of Wales' feathers, long grasses with huge silvery tassels, wave
gracefully in the breeze towards Table Mountain.

The Euphorbia Abyssinica is a cactus of weird aspect, with its
thick, twisted outshoots, ugly ridges hanging from it like trailing
snakes. Crotons made a brilliant display, while some of the glass
houses were emerald-green with maidenhair. Oleanders large as
trees, palms, aloes, papvrus, and water lilies typical of Africa
formed an interesting collection. But the chef d'eeuvre of the
gardens is the statue of Cecil Rhodes.

!?9

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Sea Point and Camps Bay

Cape Town can justly be proud of its electric tram service.
The cars leave the Standard Bank every few moments ; it is quite
easy to find one's way about, and to get an idea of the environs.
One pleasant ride is to Sea Point, three miles away along a pretty
road amidst villas and greenery. Each villa, vying with its next-
door neighbour, excels in the beauty of its garden. Queen's Hotel
is the favourite place, although there are innumerable smaller
hostels and boarding-houses.

It is the delight of children to spend the day at Sea Point,
and many school excursions are arranged. Sitting on the rocks

:-■

SEA POINT.

in the cove opposite Queen's Hotel, watching the eau-de-nil
breakers racing to greet the granite-bound shore, is enchanting.
As you gaze inland the hotel newly painted shines like a moon-
stone from its green hedges, backed by the frowning, barren
Lion's Head. Trams are certainly not expensive. To Sea Point
they charge only 3d.

Another enjoyable tram ride is to Camps Bay, quite near the
Lion's Head. Along the eleven-mile drive splendid panoramic
views disclose marvellous effects of mountain slopes and sea-girt
shores ; and one returns through Kloof, past homes of wealthy
residents and fine gardens, back to Adderley Street.

180

Cape Town

During my stay in (ape Town the yearly Agricultural Show
was held, bringing a great influx of farmers and their wives
from the interior. I have never seen such a display of ostrich
feathers. Nearly all the tanners' wives were literally laden

with plumes, from the long sweeping decorations on hats to
massively thick boas encircling their necks. Certainly feathers
were much in favour. One of the novelties of the Show as far
as I was concerned was the shearing of the sheep by electric n
which appeared a most expeditious method. They tell me that
in Australia for some years this procedure has been adopted.

181

CHAPTER XXVII

Motoring Around Tabic Mountain

TO be remembered among the most lovely drives in the world
is motoring around Table Mountain ! though the Corniche
Road, with its scenery, is much the same. The Avenida Beira
Mar at Rio de Janeiro, the Ocean Drive at Newport, Rhode Island,
and the Bay of Naples leave lasting impressions. I left Mount
Nelson Hotel with some friends about 10 a.m. The weather was
perfect, not one cloud showing in the clear sky. Our car was
open, swift, and silent.

We sped along the road to Sea Point direct to Camps Bay. The
Twelve Apostles rose before us in forbidding array. Their steep
crags, clearly outlined by the sunshine which lit up the rocks,
showed deep fissures, like wrinkles on an old woman's face. Here
the disintegrating waters left undeniable signs. Below us, far
down, a cove and bay are passed, each owning its individual
name, no favouritism being accorded to their size.

We thought each bay had a colour especially its < >wn. There were
pale turquoise, deep emerald, crude sapphire, all wearing white
fringes of foam with kelp trailing over its surface. On the slopes,
creeping and clinging to the base of the mountain, were enormous
quantities of the heather bells so dear to Scotland. We rush some
dangerous curves on the Victoria Road, a marvellously clever
result of engineering work, the manual labour of which was
carried out by convicts from Cannon Ball Bav, which shows the
origin of its name. The whole beach is strewn with a variety of
large and small stones, round, manv polished like a cannon ball.

The next turning gives us an entirely different aspect. This is a
pure white bay of moonstone sands and marbledike boulders. Always
the Lion's Head is visible, and from some points one can distinguish
the paw quite easily. Sometimes it does not in the least resemble
the most ferocious of beasts, but looks with its barren top like
a humble cottage loaf. As one approaches the coast from the sea
the Lion's shape shows more definitely.
182

Motoring Around Tabic Mountain

On we go, enjoying the beautiful landscape, and from the
heights Hmit Bay opens out, showing a lapis-lazuli lake, quite
like Switzerland. Here arc fertile valleys in which cattle graze
and peaceful farms are dotted in mosaicked greenery. A large
farmhouse, called Kronendal, the chauffeur told us was one ol
the oldest and most typical Boer residences in the colony. During
slavery days it played a prominent part in this useful bu1 dubious
trade. Oxer the front door is painted " 1800."

Villages are left behind. Now the sun shines hot and bright,

A VIEW FROM THE MOUNT NELSON HOTEL.

the next moment we are in a glen with long dark alleys oi forest
shade, having dappled effects of light and shadow. A large
hawk, angry at being disturbed, wings out searching for a quieter
retreat. There is music in the trees from feathered throats.

Out into the open again, and Table Mountain wearing a purple
veil reminds one of some of Sir Herbert Tree's scenic effects,
especially those in " The Tempest." One recalls the bleak moun-
tains of the Transandine Railway. Eagle's Nest, a picnicking
place, is reached. This is surrounded bv a forest ; we see carts full

183

A Woman's Winter in Africa

of smiling blacks, happy in the sunshine, who grin as we pass on.
Now a wide vista unfolds itself — Table Mountain is without a
cloud. The familiar white one (or cloth) has vanished, and the
rough tableland edges show sharply against the indigo sky. From
here it seems Nature has cut it out with some gigantic knife.

For miles thousands of pines stretch on one side, while on the
other Cape Town's favourite and world-famous silver-leaf trees
spread the mountain side. In the wind all the mountain side
seems silver-plated. It is a peculiar thing, but I am told that this
tree thrives in no other part of the world. As far as the eye can
reach are white sand-dunes, which in the distance one would think
were breakers surging ashore.

Constantia Valley is entered, and here is situated the Govern-
ment Wine Farm. Most of the rich farms in this district, where
the land is extremely fertile, are owned by Boers or the Dutch,
the best fruits and vegetables coming from here. On each side
are vineyards, while houses, churches, and schools testify to the
prosperity of the community. Mr. Bertram's splendid residence
and farm are much admired ; also Victoria Cottage Hospital,
with the Infantry Barracks close by ; the Paradise estate ; and
that of J. B. Robinson, Esq. Through oak-treed colonnades is
seen the grey barren rock of Table Mountain.

Our car passes through the entrance gates of the immense
Rhodes estate, racing along a beautifully-kept avenue, on each side
of which pine and oak trees vie with each other. The Zoological
Gardens, in which Cecil Rhodes took such a keen interest, are
kept up to the same standard of perfection. We saw emus, two lions,
a leopard, a llama grazing close to the fence, hartebeest, zebra,
springbok, monkeys, and all kinds of birds. Then we drove through
the fine park to Groote Schuur, the home designed by Cecil Rhodes,
whose hobby it was to produce a typical Dutch colonial structure,
comprising the best architectural features found in South Africa.
An ideal home is Groote Schuur, with its wide shady stoeps,
decorated with foliage in tubs, and peculiar early colonial window-
shutters in brown wood. The bottom parts of these are closed
and the top a sort of rough meshrebiya work, with a picturesque
roof and artistic spiral chimneys. Over the entrance a bronze
tablet is set in the wall. The workmanship is very fine, depicting
the landing of Van Riebeck, the great pioneer and founder of the
Colony, surrounded by his followers. In this beautiful retreat are
1 84

Motoring Around Tabic Mountain

specimens of every type of flora and fauna. I note an especial
preference is given to our old-fashioned blossoms. General Loui
Botha, the Premier, and his family now occupy the place. The
house is filled with a marvellous collection of antique furniture,
curios, and objets d'art. When the family are not in residence the
public are admitted to view these treasures.

Quite near is another handsome residence, " Westbrook," in
which Sir L. Starr Jameson lived in order to be beside his greal

,• . . -

i - ■ ■ r ?

n n

n r\

STOEP OF GROOTE SCHUUR.

friend Cecil Rhodes. This now forms the summer headquarters
of Their Excellencies Lord and Lady Gladstone.

Now our road lies through Wynberg, Kenilworth, Claremont,
and Rosebank, all beautiful residential quarters, also the toll-
gate. There are many of these relics of old times in the Colony,
and for a motor they charge 2d. or 3d. a wheel. When we finished
our drive, arriving at the Mount Nelson Hotel for luncheon, we
talked it over, and found that though we were all wide- world
rovers, we unanimously decided that this had been one of the most
delightful drives we had ever taken. The cost of our car was
only £2.

DON'TS BY " IMP"

Don't miss this drive whatever you do.

185

CHAPTER XXVIII

Rob ben Island

THE " Imp of Travel " has always whispered to me, " We
should visit Robben Island." I say, " But why go to a
place whose whole population consists of convicts, lunatics, and
lepers ? ' ' Imp " scornfully asks, " Are you so spoilt with the
luxury of your two weeks' stay at the Mount Nelson Hotel that
you have not a thought for suffering humanity- — -that you don't
want to see the painful side ? Come, be brave, life is not made
up of rose leaves. Besides, your public will like to read about
this isolation, which is seldom visited except under compulsion."
As usual, " Imp" has its way, and I seek for means to go over
the island. I am told that I must get a permit, and the authorities
do not encourage visitors. Having a letter of introduction to Sir
Frederick Smith, I asked his help to cross to the island. I may
mention that Sir Frederick was Cape Town's former Mayor, and
filled the office with such efficiency that the public would not
allow him to retire for years. Through his kind influence I ob-
tained my pass to visit Robben Island, and was informed that the
Commissioner would himself conduct me over it. My friends at
the hotel say they will have my table removed outside, also I shall
be quarantined. Mr. Whitehouse sends me the following receipt :

Famous Baths of Jordan.

COMPLIMENTARY TICKET

ISSUED TO

MRS. CAMERON

GOOD FOR THREE DIPS

A Sure Cure for Leprosy

Lazarus, Secretary. Naaman, Proprietor.

" Wash and be Clean."

1 86

koblxjii Island

However, I am not intimidated, and although a trifle appr
hensive of what I shall sec, make preparations. I arise a1 seven.
Lepers haunted my dreams all night. The selection "I a gown
results in a white cotton blouse and skirt, which can be boiled, .1
white helmet, a lace veil, in case there are mosquitoes, and
a huge white chiffon motor scarf. My idea was to cover mysell
completely in case of necessity! I ordered a taxi, taking some
sandwiches and a bottle of water, imagining I should probably eal
my luncheon under a rock or in the coiner of a leprosy hospital.

INSIDE LEPER CHAPEL.

At 10 a.m. I took the small steamer Pieter Faure, which crosses
several times a week. We take on cargo, including cases of beer
and a few carcases of beef. It is a cloudy morning, Table Mountain
wearing its heavy white drapery. There are about ten other
passengers. I wonder who they are, for most of them are
speaking Dutch. Already carcases of beef, sewn in canvas,
through which bones and legs protrude, are being covered by
flies, and exhaling an aroma far from pleasant. I don't know
where " Imp " will eventually lead me, but lie certainly suggests
extraordinary surroundings.

We glide from the jetty. The boat seems quite clean, although
all the lunatics, lepers, and convicts vovage in it. Guarded, of

,S;

A Woman's Winter in Africa

course. The splendid W aimer Castle, looking most inviting, is
passed. A friend sails home on her to-day — I feel most envious.
When shall I see home again ? It is February the fifth, and
H.M.S. New Zealand, after receiving unlimited hospitality and
creating sad havoc with young hearts at Cape Town, leaves for
Durban. A slight swell begins, and all the miscellaneous people
immediately begin to feel ill. To-day the sea is a calm grey,
but when winds blow over the seven miles of open water it must
be terrible.

An old woman with bleary eyes holds a handkerchief — resem-
bling a towel — tightly to her mouth. I watch her fascinated,
although I hate it. I cannot keep my eyes from her, wondering
what would happen if she relaxed her hold. During the forty
minutes of sea rioting I take a look at my fellow-voyagers.

The lady beside me has on a coarse blanket coat ; her straw
hat is trimmed with seedy chiffon, and a faded pink rose nestles
at the side. Loose straggling hair is confined by a comb, on which
glass " diamonds " and brass filigree spread disillusioned splendour.
She has a child with her of obviously mixed breed, which I fancy
shows the first outbreak of that dreaded disease leprosy. She is
a fond mother, and carefully covers the child with a corner of her
coat. Facing me was another little girl with fair hair, which,
reposing in tight braids all night, has now the desired crimpy
appearance passing for beauty. Triumphantly she wears a straw
hat, upon the band of which is marked a blatant " Victory."
Further, another girl holds her head and looks into the sea. She
wears a big, dirty hat, and long pins sticking out show several
inches of dangerous nakedness.

Lines of birds in single file fly over the water. The old woman
who gripped the handkerchief has succumbed — it is a real attack,
and I must turn and endeavour not to see her ! I face the piled-
up cases of beer on deck. My thoughts wander to people who
have traversed this water — convicts condemned to years of hard
labour, lepers stricken by Fate and isolated from their fellow-
creatures. The lunatics are perhaps the happiest, for they do
not realize the curse which is upon them. They imagine them-
selves the most wonderful people, reigning as kings and queens
quite contentedly.

Before long the island showed itself. I gazed with the greatest
curiosity, and mentally pictured a thousand terrible scenes.

1 88

Robben Island

The strainer stopped, people gathered their po ions, and I
took camera, handbag, sunshade, and umbrella. Also the Lasl

Daily Telegraph," and my lunch, dune up in a paper pan i I

It is always darkest just before dawn ; I felt particularly lonely.
Table Mountain appeared attractive in the distance; I thoughl
of my friends at the hotel who would be thinking of me. "An
you Mrs. Cameron? " asked a voice. ' Yes," I answered. 'The
Commissioner has sent a boat for you." Thereupon 1 blessed Sii
Frederick Smith. I felt it was beyond the dreams of possibility
to have someone cognizant of me over here. I went to the
deck, where the boat was rocking. Someone held the luncheon
parcel, two hands were extended. I jumped. Bravo ! I landed
inside.

With a few pulls of the oars we arrived at the jetty, where
one had only to get on to the step, mount, show one's pass, and
walk up a pier, at the end of which the Commissioner, Mr. Brande,
extended a welcoming hand and told me that his wife was waiting
to receive me at their home.

The first glimpse Robben Island presents is a sandy stretch
without much shade, a white lighthouse towering sentinel over all ;
but as you proceed you find quite a lot of shade. The manatoka
hedges do very well, and many trees abound. Mr. Brande showed
hundreds of these planted recently, and in time there will be
ample protection from the sun. The island is extremely healthy,
with a sea breeze continually fanning it. If not dedicated to the
afflicted it would probably have become a summer resort for Cape
Town.

Robben Island was first heard of in 1591 by a sea captain
named Raymond, who set sail from Plymouth on April 10th of
the same year. He was commander of three vessels, and upon
landing at the island found it uninhabited, with the exception of
numerous seals and penguins. The island is about two miles long
by one and a half wide ; it has also afforded hospitality to several
Kaffir chiefs. One of the most renowned was Linchwe, who, in
endeavouring to escape, was drowned, not being able to swim the
seven miles to the mainland. I asked Mr. Brande how many
people he had under his charge, and he answered, " We have 600
lepers, 500 lunatics, 120 convicts, and these with officials, clergy,
doctors, and attendants, amount to about 1700 in all."

I next had the pleasure of being introduced to Mrs. Brande,

180

A Woman's Winter in Africa

and was shown over their very nice residence. They were both
young, bronzed, and with amiability written on their faces; they
looked so healthy and cheerful I began to feel I had made some
mistake and got to the wrong island ! Surely this could not be
the dread abode of suffering humanity. Mrs. Brande said we
must hurry, because there was much to see and our carriage
was waiting. We passed from the garden and found a tine pair
of mules harnessed to a double-seated dogcart. Mrs. Brande
and I mounted the front seat, while the Commissioner took the
back. They told me that the harness and cart were both manu-
factured by convicts. A black man held the mules — he was a
harmless lunatic.

It was all indeed strange to me ! Off we started down Main
Street, which was sandy with white dust. On one side a trolley
track is laid, and the only means of getting about is in this
way, as at Beira, but here one is pushed by convicts. To the
left a fine substantial erection of stone, with a verandah, comes
into view, and I am informed this is the Club for officials
and residents — non-lepers, naturally. Inside are billiard, card,
reading, and sitting-rooms, quite up-to-date. The view of the
mainland is fine. Table Mountain and Lion's Head stand out
magnificently against clear blue sky- Streets are well laid out, and
we pass some small corrugated-iron houses with verandahs.

Mrs. Brande said, "Those houses are for the lepers' visitors."

Lepers' visitors ? " I exclaim. ' Do the authorities allow that ?
The Commissioner replied, a smile in his kindly eyes, " Oh, yes;
if they have behaved well and there are no bad marks against
them they can ask for one of these houses, and members of their
family can visit them for two weeks." Certainlv it is very
charitable of the Government ! There are many churches, and
three resident clergymen. These churches include a Roman Catholic,
a Dutch Reformed, and several English Protestant. One hand-
some edifice dates from 1841. Many men were working in the
fields — all lepers, but seemingly quite happy. They bow, smile,
and raise their hats as we drive by. Genial Mr. Brande had a
word tor each, and called them by their Christian names.

Along the beach several seats were placed, and on these leper
women were enjoying the air. They dressed cleanly and well
with cotton blouses and dark serge or mohair skirts. They have
a dressmaking establishment which is run by leper women. Two

190

Robben [sland

new dresses and a special one fen Sundays are allowed for the
year. This arrangement is for the women who are np1 very badly
afflicted. The Lepers arc of all shades of brown, and of mixed ra< e.
I wonder it the loathsome disease comes from this mingling of
blood ! It might be possible. There were only three European
women sufferers. Two of these were Dutch, and the other,
although white, an alien of some sort.

It seems strange that since the days of Lazarus scientific
research has made but little progress over this curse. The theorj

ROBBEN ISLAM) SETTLEMENT.

that leprosy comes from eating salted fish, which they said gave
Norway people the malady, has long since been proved wrong.
Leprosy is frequent with the Barotse natives, and they have
never eaten salt risk. I went into the Leper Church. It is a small,
clean sanctuary, with bright pictures on the walls, a nice altar,
and many benches. Near the entrance are two large scriptural
verses in Dutch..

Mr. Engleheart is the chaplain. I did not meet him, as he was
absent, but heard wonderful accounts of his gocd work. How
pathetic it must be to preach to such an assemblage ! I should
think patience and an all-inspiring faith would constitute the text

191

A Woman's Winter in Africa

of the sermons. Outside a trellis of morning glories was doing its
utmost to make the place cheerful.

' I think," said Mr. Brande, " if your nerves are strong you
had better see the worst cases first. Do you insist on seeing these
patients ? "

" Yes," I replied. ' I am quite prepared to see everything."

Our first stop was the negro hospital.

We entered the part assigned to the worst cases. It was
a long ward, with, I should say, twenty-four beds. The walls are
high and lathed ; large windows are open and the air quite fresh,
but naturally the odour of antiseptics is noticeable. Mr. Brande
and I paused at the first bedside, that of a negro, whom he called
by name and asked how his foot was. The wizened mouth worked,
then in gasps came the words, " Foot bad, sir." This poor man
had lost one leg, and now the doctors must again operate to take
out another section of decayed bone. The other foot of this poor
diseased wretch has lost all its toes, and both his hands are
fingerless.

The sight is not so appalling as one might imagine. I had ex-
pected to see -white sores. After the joints have been healed the
skin appears smooth and shiny, resembling a new potato. It is
incredible what these stricken folk can do without hands and
feet. It struck me that instead of inflicting more pain upon this
poor old creature to remove a few inches of rotting bone, it would
be more humane to give him a soothing potion and release his
agonized souk A lethal chamber would indeed be a blessing
to these accursed bodies ! And yet Mr. Brande tells me that they
do not want to die, resisting death with all their strength.

They are allowed almost everything to eat, and can ask for a chop
or beefsteak for their breakfast. Drinkables must have the doctor's
signature before being obtained. The worst cases lie on single,
iron bedsteads, with two or three ample pillows ; their sheets and
white counterpanes clean, floors and wooden chairs being all well
scrubbed. Lepers who can do work like washing and nursing
earn as much as £3 10s. a month, but in many cases they scrub
solely with their maimed stumps. There is a shop where they
spend money on anything they fancy.

We continue, pausing by the side of a man who has lost his
eyes and other portions of his body. He is quite helpless. One
of the terrors of leprosy is that it often brings blindness. I asked

192

Robben [sland

a sufferer how he felt the first symptom of his disease ; he told m<
he had a severe cold, (hen his lace bones began to enlargi -and
he was a leper. What a horrible discovery it must have been !
A cold shiver creeps over me. Instinctively I realize a horrible
presence is near. Thump, thump! 1 hear closer and closer. Turn-
ing round quickly, I see a poor leper bringing water to one more
afflicted than himself. The thump, thump is caused by the
stump of the bone as it beats along the wooden floor. Mercifully
these lepers have no feeling in afflicted parts. They say a lepei

MAIN STREET, ROBBEN ISLAND.

can stick his limb into tire and feel nothing. Many of these are
in the last stages of consumption. This often goes with leprosv.

After passing the ward of misery, where these people could not
have been cared for better, I next inspected the day-room, for
recreation, with puzzles and games, when they are able to use
them. A modern operating-room had everything in proper con-
dition. All the patients salute, and, wishing them a cheerful good
day, we pass from the carbolic-laden atmosphere.

The bandaging-room proved interesting, here being yards of
antiseptic cotton in constant demand. The white attendants are
of good class. I asked the Commissioner if it was not difficult
to procure them, but he said plenty had been found up to the

N 193

A Woman's Winter in Africa

present. They are paid good wages and have much time for
recreation.

In the operating-room the table is of thick plate glass, and
easily kept in hygienic condition.

One Boer leper stops Mr. Brande and talks — he is working with
the trees in the open ; except for curious pinkish rings on his
cheek-bones, one would not take him for a leper. A white man
named Nicholson we pass, and my conductor asks him how
he is, and is answered that he is quite cheerful now. This man
was lunatic besides being a leper. Formerly he occupied a
cell, but having mentally improved was allowed to do a little
farming.

The Government have experimental vegetable gardens on the
island, where the weak-minded lepers work ; raising quantities
of chickens, and selling many dozens of eggs. I should not fancy
these ! We look into the recreation hall, where a few months
ago an interesting exhibition was held, every article sold being
the work of male or female patients. Lord and Lady Glad-
stone honoured this exhibition with their presence, and were so
interested in the efficient way in which the community was con-
ducted they remained the entire day. One leper woman, a half-
caste, won the first prize for sewing. Considering she managed her
sewing-machine with a bandaged hand and only three fingers,
it may be considered quite wonderful. Her prize, she proudly
told me, was ios.

' Now," said the Commissioner, " you must see a really horrible
sight, and you are the first woman who has been allowed to do so.
You are not afraid ? "

' Oh, no, certainly not ; I have come to see everything."
I found a long stone structure built in a semicircle and tightly
enclosed by barbed wire. There is a small sandy space for sitting
about in, a few stunted bushes, and a short verandah. This
ward is for men who are both lunatics and lepers — as if they were
not enough cursed by one complaint ! Here it was indeed terrify-
ing, and one felt that some patient might spring upon one's back
like a tiger.

The mild inmates were sitting chattering, some sing-songing,
others mumbling like disturbed monkeys. It was awful to see
these outcasts sitting with a devil inhabiting every brain. Here
again I found the same cleanliness. The dormitory had a few
194

Robben Island

chromos hung high, close to the ceiling, in case the mad people
might eat (hem, or use them for attacking cadi other.

One dreadful creature had just had an epileptic lit, and lay Oil
the floor moaning and groaning. The epileptics haw theii
mattresses on the floor. One man has a cell without any fur-
niture, for he destroys everything breakable. All these cells for
desperates have a deep slit in the door, through which the
attendant can watch the inmate. Low in the door is an aperture
in which the night-watchman can"" place his lamp and illuminate
the cubicle.

CHURCH FOR THE SUFFERERS.

I was shown some padded cells, small narrow places, padded
to the depth of five inches. Certainly no one could do much
damage here. The Commissioner pointed out a passive-looking
man, saying he was a splendid barometer, for just before it is
going to rain he begins shouting in frenzy, and cannot be stopped
until the rain descends, when he again becomes quiescent.

In the dining-room everything was spotless; a red-and-white
tablecloth was on the table. Books made of linen, on which bright
pictures have been pasted, also a gramophone to take the attention
of the peculiar-minded from indulging in their own music, com-
pleted the ward.

195

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Quite close, but not staring them in the face, was the Leper
Cemetery ; but really no one could desire to prolong the lives of
a batch of lunatic lepers. Now we cross to the women's quarters,
encountering a gang of convicts who have been working in the
fields. They halt as they pass through the gate of their compound,
and a guard searches them for knives or tobacco. It seemed rather
pitiful to see them halt, throwing up their hands while they were
being examined. Many had terrible hang-dog faces, looking as
if they would enjoy any fiendish crime. Most of them have
committed murder. .

One queer creature obviously thought he was an aeroplane
by the manner in which he gesticulated, swinging his arms as
though he were attempting to fly. We next entered the dress-
making department ; this was in charge of a white woman, a
non-leper. She showed us patterns, saying there was nothing
she loved like fashion plates. There were sewing-machines, leper
women working them, and one girl, Rosie, laughed very much—
her hands ended in two stumps, but she turned out cotton blouses
as if Nature had not cursed her.

We inspect the dresses, which are of good quality, in mohair
and serge, while white flannel petticoats looked cosy. There are
large bales of all sorts of material on the shelves. Another terrible
thump — thump ! This time it is a woman whose legs have been
sawn off nearly to the knee. She pounds across the corridor.
She is most uncannv. Her nose is sunk into her face, which is dis-
torted from all semblance of humanity. I cannot look at her, she
is too sickening. I silently send up an appeal to God, asking,
' Why can't she die ? ' If the lepers work well and have no
marks against them they can live by themselves, or have a larger
room with perhaps only two occupants.

I forgot to mention that as we drove past one man appeared
to be kneeling, but this was not so. His legs had been taken off
almost to his trunk. He certainly was a terrible sight !

The general shop caught one's fancy ; one wondered what would
be their taste, and how these people who gained mcney in such
trying circumstances would spend it. Sweets, the nurse in charge
told me, were liked, and perfume was in great demand. Also
ribbons of gay colouring ; biscuits and tinned meat, although
they are allowed 13 ounces of meat for dinner and 4 ounces at
breakfast.

196

NATIVE WOMAN CARRYING TWINS.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

One leper told the Commissioner that he would like some
grapes, Mr. Brande promised them that da}'. Another request
by a woman who had only two fingers left was that they would
get her a piano. However, this desire was not granted ! But
there are several pianos, in different buildings. Nurse Stafford,
with a sweet face, and wearing an immaculate tan-and-white
uniform, took us in charge.

We visited the steam laundry, and the store-rooms. The bread,
I was glad to know, is made by bakers who are entirely healthy.
In one of the wash-rooms the leper women were rubbing their
clothes on stones and rinsing them, although they had no fingers.
Ward 5, which is a long corridor with about thirty-five beds, with
plenty of space between them, looked most comfortable. Each
was covered with a white, red-bordered spread.

Here there were some terrible specimens of women lepers. One
old crone wept in a corner. Mrs. Brande tried to talk to her,
but could not understand what she said. A black girl had an
enormous growth protruding from her mouth. Her eyes receded
into a horrible countenance. Noses, eyes, and mouths suffer
most in affected cases. Another had bones protruding through
her cheeks. This ward was for coloured women of every shade of
yellow, brown, and ebony. Three old ones sat on the floor
laughing, while one mumbled, " Old womans can't do nothing."

There are tables scattered about, large wicker chairs, and every-
thing as clean and comfortable as possible. Each patient has a
private bureau, a shelf wardrobe, and a miscellaneous collection
of things — little bits of something, a china cat, photographs of
their family, some of which hang over their beds, and all the
treasured idols of their former life. Nurse Stafford talked cheer-
fully to them all and the}' appeared happy.

We visited the tin house of Maggie. She is rather a celebrity
here, having a little money. She is a brown girl of about twenty.
A peculiarity about Maggie is that she is engaged. Her intended,
who was paying her a visit at the time, was also celebrated — ■
being a Jew leper, and brought from the London Hospital, where
he had been for seven years. He was very proud of the fact that
H.M. Queen Alexandra had paused by his bed on one of her
charitable visits. The man's name is Turog.

He did not show leprosy so terribly as others, only the rings
and swelling about the cheeks. He is under arrest at present as

198

Robberi Island

he ran away, and tried to board a steamer and escape. The
lepers have every attention that can be shown to them, but still
they grumble, their one desire seeming to be to get back to the
world, so circulating their foul disease. Of course, Maggie and
Turog will not be allowed to marry, but as long as they care to
remain in the engaged state, the authorities permit it.

The one great and difficult problem among the lepers is thai
of sex. One would suppose these unclean people would have
no desire to perpetuate their race, thus bringing more suffering
into the world, but this is not the case. There are very strict laws
dealing with people misbehaving themselves, their passes to
wTander about the island being cancelled for a year, while other
punishments are also meted out. The authorities are ever on the
alert to investigate and stop these wretched people from cohabita-
tion, but with all their vigilance sometimes a child is born ! When
this happens the child is sent away, and carefully watched for
the development of the dread illness.

There are several streets of " hokkies." These are small tin
shanties, each one being numbered. Many of the lepers prefer to
live here in these hot cubicles rather than in the long, cool
wards. They fancy they have more liberty in these "hokkies,"
and draw their own rations from the stores and cook their
meals.

Next I met Sister Cicely. She had a sweet face, and belongs
to the Sisters of the English Church. The Order has its head-
quarters near St. Albans— the All Saints' Community. These
Sisters do splendid work with child lepers. At present they have
twenty children under their care, teaching them to be useful as
far as their infirmities permit. Sister Cicely told me that it had
never been known for a child to be born a leper.

They had a case of four years, also one of six. One little sufferer
about ten was very anxious I should see her doll, which had been
a Christmas present. They have many donations sent them. Last
Christmas Lady Smith, who has been Mayoress for some years, wife
of Sir Frederick, generously sent two hundred and fifty presents.
These Mrs. Brande distributed to the lepers from a large Christmas
tree.

One little girl, Susie, had only slight marks of the leprosy.
How cruel it seems that as this child grows to womanhood the
horror will keep pace with her age. Why should this child be

199

A Woman's Winter in Africa

cursed ? We are told the Creator is merciful, and so I pray He
will soon release Susie.

I happened to have in my bag a card from H.M. Queen
Alexandra, written by the Honourable Charlotte Knollys, stating
that my novel, "A Durbar Bride," had been graciously accepted
by Her Majesty. I asked the children if they would like to see it.
Their eyes opened to an alarming extent as they unanimously
declared " Yes." I fished in my bag and produced the precious
document. All wanted to touch it. 'Oh, did Queen Alexandra
really write this ? ' I had to explain that Queen Alexandra had
not actually penned the lines, but commanded I should receive
her gracious acknowledgment. Susie asked if she might hold the
card, and she kissed the Royal signature, with its small black crown,
dated Sandringham. This passed through each child leper's hand
—many embracing it ; some, however, too awed, gazed in wonder
and reverence on the bit of Royal pasteboard.

One child was busy making paper screens, some of which were
quite pretty. This girl had quite a collection of toys, one of her
treasures being a photograph of our Princess Mary, cut from an
illustrated paper, and framed over her bed. When I told her
I had seen Princess Mary, and how pretty she was, she sighed
and looked enviously at me.

The Sister said she knew one leper woman of eighty. We
inspected all the wards, dining-rooms, and linen stores for boys
and girls. Everywhere I found the surroundings clean and com-
fortable. Cheering words were spoken to the afflicted by the
Commissioner, his wife, sisters, nurses, and attendants ; in the
majority of cases the patients appeared happy. If one must
have leprosy I am sure this retreat is the best place to seek the
seclusion which is imperative.

Mr. Brande said we were already late for luncheon, so we climbed
into the dogcart and drove to his charming home. After lunch
my hosts toured me all round the island. On one side the beach
is very pretty, with white breakers murmuring over brown rocks.
Here were several tents and shelters, also some lepers enjoying
the simple life by the sea. A beautiful view of Table Mountain
and Cape Town is obtained. I am told that in certain seasons
the island is a mass of arum lilies. Postcards illustrate this
fact.

I halted, and we all climbed to the top of Robben Island Light-

200

Robberi Island

house; a very useful light this is, for many wrecks have occurred
here. One can see its beacon for quite eighteen miles a1 sea. This
stands about sixty feet high. A wondrous view spreads out, bul
the only exit consists of a hole which a very fat person would not
be able to squeeze through.

At four o'clock I caught mv strainer, having spent a mosl
profitable day. I came in dread to Leper Island, but departed
feeling that under the organization of the present authorities
nothing further could be done for these unfortunate people.
Even " Imp " was satisfied with its experience. »

My grateful compliments to Commissioner and Mrs. Everard
Brande for their kind hospitality in allowing me to see everything
connected with their admirable administration.

20 1

CHAPTER XXIX

Lunch on the " Tabor a "

THROUGH the kindness of my friend H.E. Fran Schnee,
I was invited as Captain Doherr's guest to a luncheon party
on the Tabor a, which at present is the largest and finest ship of the
D. O.-A. Linie, although I was told another with more improve-

SWIMMING BATH, S.S. TABORA.

ments was being built. I can scarcely credit this ; but the fact
remains. The Tabora is sister ship to the General, and similar in
nearly every way. Her palm hall is a little larger, and she has a
gymnasium. You may ride an electric horse, or if that does not
sufficiently jolt you, there is the long, slow, hobbledehoy tread of the

202

Lunch on the " Tabora

camel to tour ones sluggish nerves,
lie down and have spinal massage.

song

Failing thai even, you may
( )nc is reminded oi the old
1 dreamt I dwell in marble halls " when our is a passenger
on these ships, but the dream is completely realized, Eor all the
walls arc marble lined.

I cannot imagine a more charming trip Eor anyone obliged to
winter in a warm climate than to take either of tins' floating
luxurious Savoys and have a trip around Africa. These ships call
only at large places like Dur-

ban, Beira, Dar-es-Salaam,
Zanzibar, Mombasa, and Tanga.
I took some of the smaller
ones, as I desired to see strange,
unfrequented parts. For an
invalid to take the route I have
described I am sure would be
most enjoyable ; also, it is not
at all expensive — far cheaper
than staying at home. Besides,
think of the variety of scenery
combined with the same life as
in an expensive hotel, and the
education of broadening one's
mind by the interchange of
thoughts and experiences with
people whom we do not con-
tinually meet in our own
narrow circle at home.

These ships, afterleaving Cape
Town, go home immediately,
only calling at Las Palmas. I wished to write a book of the entire
coast of Africa, as I had already done on South America ; and
knowing that few women journey up the West Coast, I decided
to brave discomfort if I had to, and investigate. I can honestly
say my voyage round the East Coast has been one of great enjoy-
ment everywhere — especially on the German steamers, where I
have been shown every kindness and courtesy.

Our luncheon party included Her Excellency Frau Schnee,
Mr. and Mrs. Weinlig, Dr. and Mrs. Peterson ; and a merry time
we had. The cuisine excelled itself. One thing I must admit.

203

H.E. FRAU SCHXEE, CAPTAIN DOHERR,
AND MRS. WEINLIG.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Travelling on the German ships spoils one, for they are the acme
of luxurious comfort.

After lunch we adjourned to the gymnasium to ride its camels
and horses. Captain Doherr, who is very popular, showed us his
sitting-room. The Duke and Duchess of Connaught have honoured
him with large signed photographs. A very lovely one of the
Duchesse d'Aosta is on his writing-desk. He also handed me a
photograph which has been reproduced all over the world—
that of himself and Theodore Roosevelt, with the American flag
for a background. Both Her Excellency and myself expressed the
wish that we were homeward bound on the Tabora. I especially.
If only my West Coast voyage were over, and I returning ! One
hears such dreadful tilings about hotels, climate, fevers, and other
dismal prospects.

On reaching Mount Nelson Hotel, fascinating Table Mountain
was concealed in a floating vapouresque mist, white and soft as an
angel's wing. This was ever dropping over the precipice of bleak
stone, giving the effect of Victoria Falls, only in this case it was a
cloud which was dashed to death.

204

CHAPTER XXX

Rhodes Memorial

MY friend and I took the train for Rondebosch. One can go
by tram as well, and I have also motored out, which is
more pleasant. I never saw a place where one really needed a
motor more than Cape Town, because the environs are so scatterc d,
rendering distances enormous. After passing through business
quarters and uninteresting suburbs one reaches Mobray and Rose-

*'*

.„..-.•;, . ■ . "

CECIL RHODES' RESIDENCE.

bank, with their well-kept streets and pretty homes. We took
a victoria, as H.E. Frau Schnee wished to leave cards atWestbrooke,
the present official residence of Lord and Lady Gladstone. We
traversed the lovely pine and oak avenues, casting a lingering look
at Groote Schuur, which has not only modern history attached
to it, but ancient as well, being mentioned in Van Riebeck's

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Journal. Afternoon sun blazed into the lovely garden as though
to wake the blooms from their siesta.

We had made arrangements with our coachman to drive us to
the memorial of Cecil Rhodes, which was unveiled about a year
ago. On we went, through beautiful forests. At one side are the
grounds set apart for the animals. Queer birds stalk under the
trees, and hundreds of squirrels bound across our path or sit en
their haunches, nibbling acorns, which fall in golden showers.
Across our road dart a family of zebras — father, mother, and
baby. On our return, however, the keeper obviously had missed
them, and their wanderings were curtailed by a barbed-wire fence.

The memorial is situated at the foot of the mountain, on
the spot Cecil Rhodes loved. Here he would sit, never tired of
watching that wonderful panorama of mountain, plain, lake, sea,
and towns spread in a gigantic semicircle. The design of the
memorial is most noble and dignified. It is Grecian, with Corin-
thian columns of white granite, recalling Egyptian temples of the
Phoenician period. Framed in a rocky background, wreathed in
oaks and pines, it will ever remain a fitting tribute to the memory
of a great man.

Wonderfully imposing ! Still, his simple grave on the Matcppo
Hills, fashioned by Nature, is to me far grander than this expensive
testimonial erected in his honour. One climbs about fifty steps,
which at intervals are surmounted by huge guarding lions of
bronze — four on either side. On approaching the centre of the
open temple, a gigantic bust of Cecil Rhodes gazes across the
landscape. His head rests upon his hand, his pose is one of deep
reflection ; but there is a stern, grim, determined expression on
his face which the one in the Botanical Gardens does not possess,
nor yet the statue in the main street of Bulawavo. As one descends
the steps one is struck with the magnificent view. At the foot of
the memorial stands the splendid world-renowned figure of
' Physical Energy," the work of G. P. Watts, representing the
colossal figure of a man, nude, with immense muscles and perfect
strength, on horseback. This noble piece of work Cecil Rhodes
much admired.

As my stay in Cape Town was limited to a little over two weeks,
I had no time to visit many of the places I should like to have done.
The walks over the mountains are superb. Mr. Haygood, the
kindly and genial American Vice-Consul, informed me that while

206

Rhodes Memorial

I was here he had just completed his hundredth climb over Table
Mountain. There is no hick of holds, pensions, and boarding-
houses. One might describe them as being as thick as black-
berries! Mount Nelson Hotel has no rival. The Grand Hotel,
near Adderley Street, is much frequented", and looked quite a
comfortable abode. I was there several times. The International
I did not care for ; it had a dusty, woebegone air. The I adarga
is a small private hotel; and Kingsfold was very well kept,
with nice grounds, and spotlessly clean. I considered it mo I
attractive.

At the foot of Government Avenue begins Cape Town's greal
shopping street, with handsome shops where every commodity
can be bought. Magnificent buildings — the Standard Bank, Post
Office, and many others — make Adderley Street a model. This
street has not a monopoly, however, for St. George's Street,
Darling Street, Queen Victoria Street, and Long Street are noted
business quarters. There are many curio shops, where ostrich
feathers can be bought ; also silver leaves from the celebrated
trees around Cape Town, on which one can write names. Thev
are woven into tablecloths, and make pleasing souvenirs. Kaffir
work abounds, mostly spears, weapons, and beadwork. I bar-
gained for and obtained an elephant's ear, dried and polished. I
anticipate having it mounted as a table for serving coffee. As my
house already contains many barbaric specimens, this enormous
ear will not be out of place.

I can conscientiously recommend L. Moss, of Plein Street, as an
honest, reliable dealer. His stock of oddities includes many fr< m
New Zealand and Australia. Cape Town is well supplied with
churches, from the Anglican Cathedral to the Dutch Reformed
Church — which is spoken of as the Westminster Abbey of South
Africa, inasmuch as beneath its flooring are buried the remains of
many of the old Dutch Governors. This church dates from the
seventeenth century. The Wesleyan Methodist is a handsome
edifice, costing £15 ,000, with seating ca paci t y f< >r a thousand people.
The Catholic Church, the Jewish Synagogue, the German Lutheran,
the Mohammedan Mosque — every creed is duly and respectfully
ministered to ; even the Malays, of whom there is a large com-
munity, have a mosque, whose minarets and cupola draw especial
attention.

I find it difficult to describe Cape Town — it is so like any large,

207

A Woman's Winter in Africa

up-to-date city. Everything obtainable in a big metropolis can
be obtained in this picturesquely situated capital.

All should visit the Museum — a long, stone building on the left
side of the Avenue, going down. Upon entering I was intensely
touched to see the old " Post Office " stones in the hall. These
recall the date 1600, when letters were indeed a rarity. One can
imagine the excitement when news arrived from beloved relatives
in far-off lands. It was the custom for the captains to place their
letters under these stones when outward bound. The homeward-
bound ship would find them and carry them to their destina-
tion. Some of the stones are inscribed in English, Dutch, Danish,

. Wk

RHODES MEMORIAL.

WATTS STATUE "PHYSICAL ENERGY.

and French ; the letters are nearly obliterated, but on one you
can read " 1614." Another ran as follows: "This will arrive
September 1st, from Surat, depart the ditto, 1628. Chris. Browne,
Commander."

In the Museum are specimens of men and women aborigines
of the Hottentot and Bushmen races ; also some reck paint-
ings. The figures were very well done in a reddish plaster ;
the women had in most cases tremendous hip development,
with very small eyes and woolly heads. I next passed on to a
group of Dutch furniture, and a chair in which a Governor died
in 1729. There was some good Delft china, and ancient Bohemian
glass, inscribed with the crest of the St. Helena Regiment. There
208

Rhodes Memorial

are innumerable heads of big game of every variety. In i thei

room is a mineral and geological assortment; in fact, one finds
almost everything that is of interest to the country.

Simonstown, Muizenburg, possess splendid bathing beaches — •
at the latter Cecil Rhodes breathed his hist. Kalk Bay and
St. James should also be visited by every traveller. An old
friend whom one sees too little of on the East Coast, Thomas
Cook and Son, is again encountered at Cape Town. One has a
feeling of confidence in whatever part of the world this useful
company has an office. We can not only command them to give
money if we travel with their notes, which is a sale way to do ;
but also find out things, and send extra baggage and curios home.
They are always ready and willing to help everyone in every way.

" Long live Thomas Cook and Son ! " says " Imp."

With sorrow I bid good-bye to the many good friends I leave
in Cape Town, and I wish to thank them heartily for their courtesy
and kindness on all occasions, especially Her Excellency Frau
Sclmee, Sir Frederick Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Weinlig, Dr. and Mrs.
Peterson, Mr. Haygood. American Vice-Consul, and Mr. and Mrs.
Whitehouse.

" Imp " suggests that the band should play " Auld Lang Syne."

O 209

CHAPTER XXXI

West Coast and Port NoLloth

IN the evening, about nine o'clock, I make the acquaintance of
Frieda Woermann, one of the babies of the mighty Wcermann
family. Her tonnage is only about 3000, and she certainly looks
small. She is to conduct me to Port Nolloth, Liiederitzbucht, and
Swakopmund. Frieda is very old-fashioned, but I have a roomy
cabin, and find Captain Wolf most genial. At daybreak we sailed,
and in the morning my belongings were flying about in a pre-
cipitate manner. I sprang from my berth to rescue toilet bottles,
for Frieda pranced up and down most recklessly ; then, being
fatigued, she wculd try to roll ever, and sometimes I really
thought she would accomplish it. For fifteen years I have never
been sea-sick, but this morning I was not at all sure how I should
be. ' I ha'e me doots," as the Scotch say ; nevertheless, I
appeared at breakfast, feeling rather lonely, as I knew no one.
Frieda, however, had not the satisfaction of making me ill, and
now she can jump about as she likes — it won't affect me !

Port Nolloth

The rollicking Frieda arrived here at 7 a.m. She makes a
terrible noise, and a sort of long shiver racks her as she drops
anchor. I go on deck and look two miles across the sea to a sandy
stretch of land backed by a line of mountains. The shore is
wrapped in mist, and there is evidently very little vegetation. 1
discern small black patches of scrub bush or salt grass, but no
trees. A tall flagpole with the Union Jack is visible. The captain
tells me we are fortunate, as twenty-one days out of a month they
have a dense sea-fog here. To-day the sun shines brightly, the air
is delicious, and as far as climate goes it is like May. My thoughts
turn to England, and imagination hears wind howling and sees
rain falling, as is usual with us in March, our most disagreeable
month.

Port Nolloth's reason for existence is that it is the port for the
210

West Coast and Port Nollotli

Cape Copper Company's outpouring. These copper mines at
O'okiep arc, or have been, among the richest in the world.

Frieda Woermann is really the worst roller it has evei been m\
lot to meet, having quite as much motion anchored as when
steaming. She loves a tumble, although arrived at the mature
age of twenty-eight.

We lay out here for some time in the trough of great blue
rollers. To the west the sea is boundless; the same Atlantic,
or Wild Sea, as the Indians called it, laps the shores of South
America. Beside us, a Danish sailing ship has brought out coal and
will return laden with copper. On the shore we can hear gigantic
breakers thundering, and the toll of a bell rings a cautioning refrain
as the waves beat its hammers. It makes me think of Filey Brig
and the bell-buoy there, which Kipling has made immortal.

The agent's tug comes in sight, followed by a lighter for cargo.
Now there is a discussion about the difficulties of going ashore.
They say that climbing over the boats will be dangerous in this
heaving sea, but as this will be my only time for seeing Port
Nolloth I intend to venture, although told there is nothing to see.
Another ladv volunteers to go, and five of us decide to explore
the white sandy land. We must wait until cargo has been dumped
upon the lighter.

If any of my readers attempt to travel on the West Coast,
let me give them a warning. Go in the small boats at the last
moment possible, because sitting a long time in the sun, and
being incessantly tossed up and down by the heaving swell, is
enough to make anyone ill. I was told by a captain who spent most
of his life in these waters that he himself had to use the strictest
care in this respect. Watching the cargo we brought, which
included many vegetables and boxes of fruit, it was amusing to see
a couple of them smashed ! Out rolled Cape plums and peaches,
much scrambling amongst the men who unloaded the cargo
following to secure these appetizing luxuries. Lucky for them
the boxes proved too fragile.

We have brought many water-melons, which prove a God-send
to this parched land, where rain falls only about twice a year.
Most of the drinking-water is brought in ships from Cape Town-
that is, for the people who are particular. Others have water
brought down in tanks by train firm five miles away, but it is
brackish to the taste. Some say if people sank wells here they

211

A Woman's Winter in Africa

would find the much-desired fluid, though others state it has been
often and unsuccessfully tried.

This port is one of the oldest in these parts, having remained
much the same for forty years; it has over a thousand inhabitants.
Our last piece of cargo to be landed was a huge case which con-
tained an electric motor for the mines. The pitching lighter and
bobbing sea made this a delicate piece of work. Several times the
cranes groaned as they lifted their heavy burden. Up would pitch
the lighter, while the sea went running by, and bang went the case
against our ship ! Many efforts were made to persuade the motor
to go down into the lighter's hold. However, patience won the
day. The skipper turned around and smiled. ' At last ! " he
said triumphantly. ' Now all to your basket," and he pointed to
the well deck.

We five, bending our heads, entered by the small aperture into
our basket, the door was bolted, and we held on to the ropes.
Whir ! whir ! grunted the crane, and we, a human cargo, hung
high in the air, swung riskily out over the sea, suspended by
cable, and were lowered none too softly on to the lighter. When
one gets used to these baskets one does not mind them in the
least. Only the first trip is rather terrifying. It is very rough
going over, but after a time we arrive at a small jetty, and here
climb up a sailors' ladder, which is somewhat awkward.

A band of black minstrels landed at the same time from the
third-class, and half the coloured brethren and sisters of the town
had gathered to meet them. There was a great variety of tans,
browns, and blacks. Women wore clean cotton gowns with hand-
kerchiefs tied over their heads ; but the men had donned any old
thing. We went along to Main Street, finding sand but little else.
This sand makes hard walking, and oozes into one's shoes. The
town consists of perhaps three hundred tin houses one storey
high, and most of them have cheap, narrow verandahs. No
trees lend their shade, but a fine invigorating sea-breeze makes
the climate pleasant and equable all the year round. I saw no
trams, carts, or conveyances except the railway bringing down
masses of copper and the necessary water.

Proceeding along the principal street, which fronts the sea, we
passed some large general stores filled with the practical require-
ments of the country; Royal Hotel, a small tin affair with red
blinds, and further on the Commercial Hotel, looking in the same

212

HEKEROS, GERMAN SOUTH-WEST AFRICA.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

forlorn condition as its rival. A bandstand looms up, and Mr. Dow,
the agent for our line, who has kindly consented to show us
round, tells me that every Wednesday an amateur orchestra tries
to cheer up the place. Three churches were seen — Catholic,
Church of Scotland, and Methodist — these taking charge of souls
obliged to exist here. The Officials' Club we were shown over, and
it has the best quarters, with a billiard-room and library of which
it is justly proud. This is provided by the Cape Copper Co.
Inhabitants have tried many kinds of trees, but nothing except
the manatoka bush will grow, as they have to use condensed or
distilled sea-water.

Whenever you see geraniums and flowers in tubs or a garden
here, you have an instant respect and liking for the people who
produce flowers under such trying circumstances. It has required
ceaseless care and patience. I remember Mr. Clare's house especi-
ally, and three others, with geraniums, petunias, and convolvulus,
which have really given the best of results. This part of the West
Coast is strikingly similar to the West Coast of South America ;
the nitrate ports suffering the same conditions of arid sand and
no vegetation. Heaped up on the jetty were hundreds of sacks
of copper, and loads of the raw ore stacked near the railway
tracks. By common consent we concluded we had gleaned all the
information possible < f Port Nolloth, and returned to our jaunty
Frieda.

214

C H A P T E R XXXII

Liiederitzbucht

JO 'RIEDA, as though remorseful for her past behaviour, has

made up her mind to show what a good child she can be if
she wishes. She dropped her anchor very quietly this morning,
and tried not to disturb the lightest sleeper. It's a lovely day,
with the sapphire sea utterly calm — even Frieda is steady. I had
always heard that Liiederitzbucht, which is the German South-
West port for the extensive diamond shores, was a terribly
ugly place, all sand and no vegetation. I go on deck and am
agreeably surprised. Certainly it is barren, for not a tree or

^n0WSMKl|^^^^^^ti&i

MISSIONARY STATION, I.UEDERITZBUCIIT.

greenery of any kind raises its head ; but the formation of brown-
grey rocks is picturesque, and hills and valleys surrounded by a
border of sea not at all unsightly. Many of the houses are well-
built, comfortable homes. As the ship swings round the nearest
buildings one sees are a good-sized church and the clergyman's
house. Missionaries certainly deserve every praise for the good
work they are achieving.

Dominating on a hill stands the large cathedral, and close by the
splendid offices of the Deutsche Diamanten Gesellschaft. A cool
breeze blows from the north, but I should think that during

A Woman's Winter in Africa

summer months — December, January, and February — the heat
would be terribly trying, as there is no shade of any kind. In the
spring of 1884 Herr Liiederitz, coming from Bremen, discovered
this shadeless shore and the port which now bears his name.

Another German ship, the Nautilus, was sent out the following
autumn, and the flag was hoisted on a promontory which they
christened Nautilus Hill. At that time no one thought of diamonds
in connection with Gross Nama Land, however; some years after-
wards they were to figure as the staple industry, export, and real
wealth of the place.

I have an invitation from a lady and her husband to visit them
this afternoon, and they will show me Luederitzbucht. To-
morrow at 7 a.m. Herr Kreplin, the Mayor, has most kindly
offered to take me over the diamond fields. The ship stays here
two days, so I have decided to remain on board this morning and
rest. It is very pleasant to have the quiet, and decks to oneself
to roam about at will, and watch strange cargoes unloaded. A
tug comes alongside, her tanks to be filled with water which we
have brought from Cape Town. There is no water at this port,
all has to be condensed or brought from the Cape.

About forty horses and mules have been sent up from Cape
Town for officers and police. They endured plenty of movement
along the coast, and must be relieved to vacate their narrow
stalls. I watched them being landed, and this process was
managed in a most sensible manner. Horses were led into open
boxes as high as their bodies, their heads tied, and swung over
and down on to a sort of heavy raft. They were intelligent enough
to realize that care was being taken of them, so there was no
plunging. At last they are all successfully disposed of, a tug takes
possession, and off the}7 go to terra firma.

Not so with a number of pigs ! They protested wrathfully
they would not enter the pens. Shrill shrieks rang out in the clear
atmosphere, and when the loaders assisted them by their hind
legs, their indignant anger knew no bounds. However, they had
to go and it was amusing to watch them. No cruelty was offered,
even to the swine, but I have witnessed the discharging of live
stock in South America where there was needless brutality.

We had brought many geese, ducks, and poultry for breeding
purposes for farms up-country and the ordinary market. A large
consignment of Ovamboland natives came with us in the fo'castle.

216

Ltiederitzbucht

They have a tug for themselves, and arc proceeding to the
diamond fields.

Another boat passes filled with black people who have been work-
ing there and made money. Now they arc homeward bound on
a holiday. They earn good wages, and no doubt feel rich. Their
garments could even outrival Joseph's coat of many colours.
Some are wearing the throw n-away caps of officers, and their tin
boxes are painted in bright red and green. They have banjos and
harmoniums on which they make music, grin, wave hands, and
pass on.

We have many visitors for breakfast this morning — the agent,
friends of the Captain, and passengers. Even on this small ship
the food is ample and most excellent, Captain Wolf being a

LUEDERITZBUCHT.

connoisseur. I have often heard people declare, " I can't endure
the food on German boats, it's too rich." That remark I cannot
understand, because on all the ships in which I have travelled
during this long voyage, including the Adolph Wocrnwnn, the
General (one of their finest and newest liners), the Markgraff, of the
Bombay service, and our Frieda Woermann, which only claims
to be a cargo cruiser, the food has been all that could be
desired. For those who like perfectly plain food there is always
a large variety.

In the morning — for I have not time to go through every meal
— you have fruit, porridge, English kippers, eggs cooked in any
way, plain ham and eggs or bacon, a chop or a beefsteak. This
choice could certainly not be classified as rich food. On the other
hand, if one does not relish the sausages favoured by the Germans,

217

A Woman's Winter in Africa

one is not pressed to eat them. On every menu you can always
choose plain fare if you wish. As regards drinkables, beer, which
is brought out from Germany, is noted for its purity and the
perfectly iced temperature in which it is kept. The waters and
wines are sensibly selected, but the ordinary red and white wines
of France, Germany, Portugal, and Cape Colony are inexpensive.
Finer vintages can be had if desired.

This afternoon I went ashore in the launch, and upon landing
found the most conspicuous building the Woermann Linie offices,
one of the first erected at Luederitzbucht. The German law
does not allow buildings of corrugated iron except as sheds or
working premises ; therefore these colonial towns present a more
spick-and-span appearance than the monstrosities in tin which

elsewhere are familiar
eyesores. I pick my
way across what I
presume is the main
thoroughfare of the
town. Sand is the
feature, and walking
unpleasant ; through
the principal streets—
and there are few of
them — trolley lines are
luederitzbucht shops. laid> though these are

only for the convey-
ance of merchandise — not, as at Beira, for personal use. I
think they could copy with advantage the private trolley-
cars of Beira. This is the business quarter, and it is 2 p.m.
The street is practically deserted, for most people are enjoying their
dinner, which is usually partaken of in the middle of the day,
followed by a siesta. On the doorsteps of general trading shops
darky girls sit guarding the treasures.

Hotel Europ Hof looks clean and habitable. I also pass the
Hotel Rosemann; but am told Kapp's Hotel is considered the best.
It has a peculiar entrance, giving one the idea that the original
house has had many additions, including a long line of rooms
at the back which form anything but an artistic prospect. The
streets, as in most of the towns here, arc named after German
celebrities. Houses are distinctly of a better style of archi-
218

Liiederitzbucht

Inline than is seen in most places so far aua\ from the
motherland.

The lew people who are in the streets are well dressed, and have a
prosperous air, children playing in the sand being red-cheeked and
healthy. Rumour has it that Liiederitzbucht is tree from fever,
and that there is very little illness of any kind. Bui the greal
drawbacks are lack of water and the absence of trees and gardens.
The people take infinite pains to produce something green,
bringing up the soil from Cape Town, but either the atmosphere
or the condensed sea-water fails to nourish them, and they soon
die.

Considering that this diamond town only woke from lethargic
sleep in 1908, when gems were discovered, it certainly has no

LUEDERITZBUCIIT.

reason to be ashamed. The handsome stone church perched on
the hill possesses fine stained-glass windows. One was given by the
Empress, and represents H.I.M. the Emperor ; besides this there
are two other churches and a couple of schools. One notices a
solidly built post office, from which a dark blue flag waves,
informing the inhabitants that a mail boat is about to depart.

When the post is in-coming a red flag floats, telling people
to come and open their letter boxes. As yet there are no letter
carriers. The Bank of Africa adds beauty to the scene, as do also
the offices of the Colmanskop Diamond Mining Co., Ltd., and the
Town Hall — all pleasing from an architectural point of view.

The Mayor, Herr Kreplin, whose position is an honorary one,
has contributed a great deal of benevolent work to this head-
quarters of diamond land. The tall spires of that marvellous

219

A Woman's Winter in Africa

achievement the wireless telegraph keep the people in close touch
with the news of the world. German South-west Africa has a
splendidly organized system of telephones, which make it possible
to talk with people in all parts of the country.

As far as residences may be catalogued, Mr. Henning's, Mr.
Muller's, the British Consul's, and Mayor Kreplin's are the best.
Mr. Henning's abode was certainly a revelation to me ; I had no
idea, from what I had previously heard of Luederitzbucht (" it

:Trf l

]MM i jp Li

THE CATHEDRAL, AND MR. HENNING S HOUSE.

was only a sandbank"), that such a home existed. When I
called I was shown into a spacious hall, with cosy corner, and
everything thought out for comfort, substantiality, and taste.
The rooms were equally good. Mrs. Henning appeared, and
genially showed me over her domain.

A telephone certainly did not look as if one lived in the wilds,
nor a spacious and luxurious bathroom with blue and white tiles,
including a porcelain tub and shower. But, alas ! my hostess
told me that the water for cooking purposes and bathing was

220

Ltiederitzbucht

condensed from the sea. It is held in reservoir tanks on the top of
Diamond Hill and laid <>n to the houses ; for one lank of a cubic
metre capacity r6s. is charged. One may well talk of the luxury
of a bath !

I am not going into the interior of German South-west Africa
from this port, but shall proceed to Windhnk, the capital, from
Swakopmund. I was much interested in looking at sonic photo-
graphs of farming in the hinterland. Certain farms at Gibeon had

PRINCIPAL STREET, LVEDERITZBUCHT.

wonderful tobacco plantations and vineyards. These farms range
from 10,000 to 15,000 hectares. The splendid place of Baron von
Wolf had multitudes of sheep grazing upon it, and some line views
of the Great Fish River were seen. Herr Carl Woermann's farm
is considered one of the best in the country.

The train goes about 300 miles from here to Keetmanshoop, and
continues its way to Windhuk. After tea Mrs. Henning and I
climbed up to Diamond Hill and obtained a fine view of the land.
Below a blue bay spreads, surrounded by a wreath of arid grey

221

A Woman's Winter in Africa

rocks, and marvellous swirls of sand-dunes created by the wind,
which is renowned here. The sand and rock resemble a sea, and
geologists think that centuries ago this land must have been the
bottom of a great ocean or river bed. Back of the town are the
Recreation Grounds and the race track of Boerenkamp.

Liiederitzbucht is not to be outdone by other towns, and has
its race meetings on holidays, but as yet there is no theatre. From
the hill the entire panorama -showed distinctly, including Shark
Island, on which is erected a large hospital. Returning to Frieda
I found her smaller sister had arrived, the Linda, another coaster.
The ship seems mine, as the Captain is dining out on the Linda
and I am at present the only passenger. The first officer and I
have dinner, after which, alone on deck with " Imp," I enjoy an
enchanting sunset, which throws pink and lilac cloaks over the
rocks and sands; then, as if not satisfied with its effects, covers
them with golden mantles and contentedly seeks an amber rest.

On the fo'castle negroes play the Merry Widow Waltz, and as
the music floats to me how many pictures it brings of enjoyable
dances ! I arrive at the conclusion that it is not at all bad to have
the first-class deck to oneself — one can at least think one's own
thoughts instead of listening wearily to uninteresting theories,
or enduring the terrible ennui which some people impose on good-
nature by insisting on reciting uninteresting adventures of their
entire family, whom you don't know and never want to.

222

CHAPTER XXXIII

Colmanskop Diamond Fields

AT seven o'clock precisely I was ready on the entrance jetty to
ii make my long-anticipated visit to the diamond fields. I never
mind how inconvenient the hour is if the result is worth it. This
experience certainly was. In a few moments six horses with a
light two-seated carriage dashed round the corner, accompanied
by three clogs. Seated inside were Mayor Kreplin and H.M. Consul
Mr. Miiller. It was an imposing sight. The six horses, with
their driver cracking
his whip, carried one's
thoughts back to coach -

ing and pioneering J ' ' ' ' - *s-

days. I climbed up
and took my place on
the back seat beside
Consul Miiller. It was
a heavenly day — not a
cloud in a pellucid
sky ; the cool morning
breeze off the sea,
miles of rock and sand-
dunes producing an
exhilarating effect. The driver sounded his lash again, the horses
plunged, and off we dashed.

Town is soon left behind, and we sweep over the sand and invade
a world of mountain, hill* and dale composed of disintegrated
pulverized rock. As far as the eye can reach this arid desert sweeps
away to the horizon, now looming high in distant frowning
mountains, and again subsiding into soft valleys filled with finest
sand. The idea came to me how terrible it would be to lose oneself
on this apparently limitless stretch, and I was told that years ago,
during the war, an officer and a private carrying valuable papers
and a bag of gold for the payment of the soldiers were lost, nothing

2 -> ->
o

OUR CARRIAGE FOR COLMANSKOP.

A Woman's Winter in. Africa

ever being heard of them. Naturally at the time everyone talked of
the disappearance — it was a nine days' wonder and then dropped.
Last year men digging in a sand-dune found the remains of these
two men, the money and letters lying in the bag by the officer's
bones. Previous to his death he had, like Captain Scott, written
of the manner in which death had claimed him — starvation,
thirst, and weariness !

Not a green thing lives on the granulated surface, but there are
many queer rock plants dry as cinders in various shades, similar
in colour to the soil. More than twenty varieties of these plants
abound, and how they live without a drop of water should prove
an interesting study for botanists. The cne I noticed principally

was called Bushman's
Candle. It constituted
a yellowish brown
substance, and tiny
pink flowers bloomed
on thick stem-like
branches. If you light
it the odour resembles
that of incense ; burn-
ing well for some time.
I ask about a high
ridge which we are
approaching as our
carriage jolts over
rocks and then descends suddenly into deep holes ; for the
road, if it can so be called, is most dangerous. Seldom a
woman comes here, and the men ride. The ridge was
named Colmanskop, and the rich Diamond Company have re-
tained it. Colman was a transporter in the old days; his wagon
broke down, obliging him to remain, so he lived on the ridge for
some time. Another local celebritv is a trader named Ratford,
who claims to be the oldest inhabitant of the coast. He took up his
abode in i860.

'' Do you know that now you are driving over diamonds ? '
smilingly asked Heir Kreplin ; and he went on to explain that we
had entered the confines of the Colmanskop Diamond property,
which comprises over 4000 hectares of soil. Looking across this
vast desert, which one would at once put down as waste land, no

224

AT THE DIAMOND MINES.

Colmanskop Diamond Fields

one could believe that under the surface there are conjecturally
some 800,000 carats of diamonds ! A black boy who had worked
al Kimberley told a Pole he believed those pebbles to be diamonds.
This man brought the stones to Mr. Staunch, who was the first
man who actually discovered the gems, and at once pronounced
them the real thing. Immediately he and Herr Kreplin began
planning out and organizing what to-day is a great industry,
employing 520 natives and a(> white people on this property
alone. There are several other companies equally prosperous.

I write of the Colmanskop as it is the only one I have seen.
Naturally, in 1908, when the outside world obtained an inkling
that diamonds were literally to be picked up off the gravel, there
followed a great rush to Liiederitzbucht, and a boom set in. In
those days they used to pay for their drinks with small diamonds.
We are told that in heaven the streets are paved with gold, but
certainly this part of the world is going one better — acres strewn
with diamonds are beyond the dreams of avarice !

I am indebted to Consul Midler for the following information
regarding the supposed genesis of the stones :

The origin of the German South-West African diamond is still
shrouded in mystery. There seems to be little doubt that they
originated in a " pipe " or " pipes," and that their present dis-
tribution is due to the action of wind and water. It has been found
that, spreading along the coastline as the fields are, from the 28th
degree to the 24th degree south, there are gaps in the chain, which
would point to diverse centres of distribution. Some geologists
hold that the diamonds were washed down the beds of rivers which,
though they no longer run, undoubtedly at one time carried large
volumes of water to the sea. Diamonds, according to this theory,
were deposited in the river silt and rubble which formed secondary
deposits, from which in course of time the diamond-bearing gravel
was concentrated and distributed by the mechanical action of wind
and weather.

Another theory is that the "pipes" from which the diamonds
come were on the site of the present distributing centres or in
the sea. The distribution was carried on by the agencv of the
current which flows up the coast. Secondary deposits were
formed below the sea-level which subsequently came to the surface,
whereupon the formations weathered and the gravel, concentrated
by the winds, was distributed still further. There is no doubt

p 225

A Woman's Winter in Africa

whatever that both wind and water have played a part in the dis-
tribution of diamonds. A trace of the Kimberley formation in the
Pomona territory, where the larger diamonds are found, would
point to the presence of a " pipe " there. It remains to be seen
whether such a " pipe " will be discovered, or whether it has been
emptied of its contents. Further inland there are a number of
blind " pipes," in which no diamonds have been found up to date.

The diamonds were discovered in 1908. In that year 39,375
carats, valued at 51,180 marks, were exported. In 1909 the
exports were 483,268 carats, valued at 15,435,522 marks. In 191 1
the output was approximately 753,300 carats, valued at 23,200,000
marks.

These sandbanks and rocks continue for eighty miles or more
inland, until agricultural life begins ; but we have no interest in
that just at present. A sudden extra lurch, the wheels right
themselves, the dogs bark, and we have arrived. Descending from
the carriage we wade th rough gravel and fine sand to a long, deep
ditch. Here about 150 boys are shovelling the soil and strata into
round sieve receivers three metres in length. At the other end of
the sieve two of them turn an iron handle, revolving the receiver.
The fine loose sand filters through, leaving pebbles and other
substances. This gravel is retained and placed in wooden trays,
which are carried up to the machines. There is also a hard stratum
running through the soil resembling dry cement ; this too is full
of diamonds, tiny rubies, and large garnets. These latter are not
used, as they are rather soft and too small to be profitable in
working, but they shine and look prettv amidst the other pebbles.

The hard stratum has to be first broken up by a ball mill, and
then goes through a classifying process. We walked up to the new
machines, which are situated on mounds of tailings, and are
enclosed by corrugated iron sheds. The gravel is now at the power
station, where 22 h.p. oil motors, three of them in this shed, pump
up the water. Water is rather expensive, as it is brought from
Elizabeth Bay to this property, and stored in tanks, whence it is
conducted through iron tubes to the washing sheds, 200 gallons
costing 4s. 6d. ; but it is used over and over again, as after running
through the gravel the sand filters and cleanses it.

Now , by the process of compressed air and water, the gravel passes
down funnels into pulsators, worked by air pressure in running
water, to large vats with sieve bottoms. Several times the gravel is

226

Colmanskop Diamond Fields

washed through and treated in this manner, then finally stacked to
await inspection. The different bins of washed gravel are classified
into first quality and second. There are two rows of the vats being
continually washed and strained. Ilerr Schiechel was the dis-
coverer of this process lor working gravel, and lien Kreplin has
perfected a patent which has been working a lew months with
great success.

America profits from the oil which is used by the motors, for
250 cases are required each
month, those costing at this
distance 8s. 6d. each. I
noticed lamps hanging in the
different departments, and
was told that the work pro-
ceeds day and night. The
sorting-rooms were to me the
most interesting. I stood on
one side of a long line of
tables, while the natives
brought in basins full of the
gravel and water. As the
solution slopped about it
reminded one of diamond soup
or gem pudding ! Now, strained
through a fine brass sieve,
it is brought to the sorting-
tables, and turned bottom side
up, leaving a sort of round cake.

An expert comes in ; he has
a small pair of pincers, and THE MAYOR' HERR kreplin ; and h.m.

* r ' CONSUL, MR. MULLER.

from the centre of the wet

gravel he proceeds to pick out the diamonds, which are
small and used mostly as settings for larger stones. These
are deposited in round brass boxes, which are padlocked.
There is an opening on the top of the box, through which the
diamond is placed ; a patent closer, and by no amount of shaking
will a stone escape from the box.

In the distance these vats of wet pebbles look very much like
Astrakhan caviare, but as you look closely into them they are
beautiful with iridescent colours. It seemed quite a pity that all

227

A Woman's Winter in Africa

the tiny garnets and rubies are thrown away in the tailings, being
too inconsiderable to work. The diamonds vary in size, but the
average is two or three carats, the largest diamond found here
weighing five carats. At Pomona, to the south of these mines, and
far richer, one stone has been found that tipped the scales at
seventeen carats. The stones are of a fine brilliant colour, and
glitter even in the rough, while those of Kimberley are much
more opaque. These vary in tint — black, pink, green, yellow,
and brown having been found. They are sent to Germany for
cutting, and although found in practical shapes fifteen per cent,
is lost in the cutting.

I next investigated the counting-house, where from the safe
they brought out a tin box. This receptacle was divided into
four compartments in which were thousands of diamonds glittering
like imprisoned rainbows. I put my hand in and let the stones
fall through my fingers. They were indeed beautiful ; and the
thought came to me, Who are destined to adorn themselves with
these bits of carbon that have lain for centuries in a river or river
bed ? Perhaps the fair white hand of a princess will carry them ;
they may encircle the throat of a beautiful actress ; or find their
way into a home where there had been constant saving to purchase
some long-coveted ring for its mistress. In the United States it is
the ambition of nearly every shop-girl to possess a diamond of some
sort, and they will deprive themselves of many necessities in order
to satisfy this cherished desire. It would be interesting if these
little stones could write their experiences as they pass on through
the different vicissitudes of their life !

This box contained the pickings of a week except to-day's,
Saturday's, findings, and the contents were valued at £3500.
Every Saturday the diamonds are taken to the Company's offices
at Luederitzbucht and guarded in their safes until exported to
Europe. The scales for weighing the diamonds were interesting,
the smallest weights being so minute that they were placed under
glass to keep the tiny gold-leaf bits from blowing away.

The Colmanskop Diamond Mining Company, Ltd., was organized
four vears ago with a capital of £125,000 in £1 shares. These
shares are now quoted at £2. Last year the shareholders received
thirty per cent, on their investment. During the short period in
which the Company has been established 152 per cent, in divi-
dends has been paid.

228

Colmanskop Diamond Fields

\\V (how to different points of the pfopei ty where other gangs
of workmen were engaged, and the process of extracting diamonds
was continued on the same lines. The terrible winds which
prevail in this part of the country shift the sands continually.
Mr. Miiller suggested that Boreas was the best worker the Company
possessed, as he was constantly changing the lie of the land, and
exposing rich alluvial soil which had been hidden for centuries.

Herr Kreplin wished me to see the men's quarters, and also the
natives'. These natives of Ovambo, a large territory which lies

£k.

'v-^.

DIAMOND-WASHING MACHINES.

to the north, are well paid and carefully looked after. Thev earn
from 20s. to 25s. a month, and are housed in clean tin buildings.
Every tiling is provided, and they have their own cooks and dining-
rooms. Half a pound of meat is allowed to each per day, and
as much other food-cereals and mealies as they wish ; Kaffir beer,
of which they are very fond, is also brewed for them. They enjoy
better rations here than in their own land. When they arrive
they are very thin, but are in much better condition on their
return.

A hospital is provided for the sick. I entered and found the
floors were of clean boards, along the sides being a row of small

229

A Woman's Winter in Africa

iron beds and benches. There were perhaps ten or fifteen invalids
stretched out and rolled up in a profusion of blankets. Most of
them were suffering with cold or stomach trouble, and two or three
had pneumonia . A man-nurse or doctor is resident on the premises,
and twice a week the " Great Doctor " comes out from town. The
natives work from nine to ten hours a day, and their contract with
the mines is for six months ; afterwards they return for a holiday
in their own country, their fare back and forth being paid by the
Company.

Herr Kreplin told me that at Pomona, when diamonds were
first discovered, in one day forty men picked up over a thousand
diamonds. There the stones are somewhat larger and more plenti-
ful. They had lain for ages on the surface of the soil, and had
been constantly trodden over, no one suspecting their value.

The white men on this mine receive £15 to £20 a month. I also
had a look at their quarters ; they have their kitchens and all is
provided for them.

Herr Kreplin is the soul of hospitality, and has some rooms set
apart for the Directors' use. Here we adjourned, and enjoyed
a well-cooked and nicely served meal ; after which the visitors'
book was shown us. It contained the signatures of Royalty and
many other distinguished names. The drive back was unique and
delightful. The six horses, having had a long rest, jostled us over
the rough way in quick time. The dogs had kept with us, and must
have been tired ; however, they raced back dauntlessly.

I called to say adieu to Frau Kreplin, and admired her charming
home ; also some fine water-colours of the desert where the
diamonds lie. There was a most interesting picture of Luederitz-
bucht in its infant days. These were all the work of Herr Ericsson,
whose art I have a distinct liking for, as he gets the sweep of the
country admirably. I next paid a visit to our Consul, Mr. Miiller,
and enjoyed a chat. It was a feeling of comfort to be once more
on English ground. He very kindly saw me off to the launch ;
and now Frieda is rolling again, this time towards Swakopmund.

230

CHAPTER XXXIV

Arrival at Swakopmund

UPON calling at the Woermann office at Swakopmund T was
disagreeably surprised to learn that the s.s. Edward Woer-
mann, which I was supposed to board, had sailed north, in con-
sequence of the copper cargo not being ready. To my mind
Edward has behaved very unkindly in leaving me behind on the
sands of Swakopmund. The members of the Woermann family
whom I know appear at least impulsive. For instance, Adolph
arrived two days late, though he was certainly perfect afterwards ;
Frieda proved to be

a frolicsome babv ; «i

and now Edward had
run away. The clerk
politely informs me
that there is no
steamer sailing along
the West Coast for
at least three weeks
or a month, though
there should be a ship
every fortnight. To
me the circumstance
is trying.

In the first place, it is spring in my own country, and I shall
not see the beautiful early flowers in my Hampstead garden,
where multitudes of bulbs were planted. After travelling many
months I wish to get home, and as there are yet many places
on the West Coast I must visit I regret to waste a moment of
valuable time. Oh, " Imp of Travel," why have you not arranged
better for your devoted follower ? Patience I must cultivate ;
there is nothing to do but wait, and Swakopmund boasts few
attractions. I can, however, travel to Windhuk and pass some
time seeing the interior.

KAISERHOF HOTEL,

231

A Woman's Winter in Africa

My next ship will be the Steiermark, 8000 tons, a brand-new
cargo-boat of the Hamburg-Amerika Linie, this being her first
trip. She has arrived in the roadstead, and is already discharging
cirgo, after which she calls at Liiederitzbucht, and returns, expect-
ing to sail somewhere about the first of April.

In the office I asked all sorts of questions regarding my next
floating home, because this ship has no accommodation for pas-
sengers, and they told me I should be the only voyager. This did
not appeal to me. How dull and unpleasant it will be, I picture
introspectively. A long voyage in the tropics with only the cap-
tain to speak to ; and he cannot devote much time personally, as
the management of the ship requires his attention.

It came to my mind to ask what kind of man this captain was,
for if he possessed a bearish temperament, and I had to sit at his
table for weeks, I should indeed be miserable. The man whom I had
been questioning was short and broadly built . He was perhaps fifty
years of age, with bronzed, pleasant face, and wearing a brown
beard. At the moment he was sorting some papers with his back
towards me ; he turned round, an odd whimsical twinkle in his
eyes. " The captain of the Steiermark9 Oh, yes ; he is a very
nice fellow indeed — I am he." For an instant I was spell-bound
with amazement ; then everyone in the office, myself included,
burst into laughter. The ice was, however, broken, and I made
the acquaintance of my next sailor-host.

232

CHAPTER XXXV

Waljish Bay

WHEN I said adieu to Frieda Woermann I concluded that
our acquaintance was at an end. If Frieda had stopped
at Walfish Bay — which she might just as well have done, as it is
only eighteen miles from Swakopmund, and we passed it coming up

sat "*►

FOOTPRINTS ON THE SANDS OF TIME, WALFISH BAY.

the coast — I should have saved £2 10s.; but Frieda has never been
considerate. I have always cherished a great desire to see Walfish
Bay — our territory, which is situated on the front doorstep, so to
speak, of Swakopmund. Politically speaking, this is a most im-
portant spot ; for a more trifling cause than this out-of-the-way

1 "? ^

A Woman's Winter in Africa

place, Walfish Bay, a bone of contention in past history, wars have
been declared. It is natural that Germany looks upon this pos-
session of ours with envious eyes, although, to speak truthfully,
it is the most depressing and uninviting site I have ever seen.

It has a great treasure though, a good harbour, consisting of a
huge open bay, with one long encircling arm of land leading to
Pelican Point, five miles distant. Consequently, the waters are
protected, and cargoes can be landed conveniently ; while Swakop-
mund is an open roadstead with dangerous surf, which rises
suddenly, and causes embarking and disembarking to be viewed
with some apprehension. Sometimes the sea runs so high that
ships must absolutely wait until the waves subside before they
can land either passengers or cargo.

The afternoon of a clear, brilliant day saw me once again on the
Frieda, where I was warmly welcomed by Captain Wolf and the
hound " Loup." Some German friends were with me ; I was not
nearly so lonely as when I first boarded the then to me unknown
steamer. It is best to visit Walfish Bay by sea. Otherwise you
must take a cart and drive for about four hours through the heat
and sand. It is a rainless coast, with frequent dense sea fogs as
wet as Scotch mists. The charge is £4 to conduct you there and
back.

By the way, Walfish Bay distinguishes itself in the frequent
tying of nuptial knots. To be married in Swakopmund by the
Church or State without every paper of yourself and bride, verified
since birth, is complicated. Many Germans who have settled in
the Colony cannot produce these necessary documents, therefore
they proceed to Walfish Bay, and are married without difficulty
for £5. But this law should be modified, or the marriages made
absolute. In several instances the man has tired of his spouse
and informed her that their union was illegal. Consequently, he
became a free man. I hear there is no redress recognized on
behalf of the wife.

It was extremely pleasant chatting on deck and watching
the long embankment of yellow sand which was being set on
fire by a vividly crimson sunset. Several dark red buildings
loom up from the shore — these are the whale fisheries. This
industry started only last year, with machinery for extracting
oil from the blubber. The bones are crushed and exported for
fertilizing purposes. Although working only part of the year,

234

Walfish Bay

£40,000 worth of oil, local value, was obtained from some 700
whales. The company employ over 220 people, many of whom
are Swedes and Norwegians. Rumour says thai on account of
their intemperate habits and rough manners they are decidedly
undesirable inhabitants.

The whole bay swarms with fish , and as we Lowered the anchor
last night a small boat came alongside with hundreds of sole, eels,
grey mullet, and white fish. A lot was purchased, some of which
we had for dinner ; the soles were quite as good as ours in home
waters. Looking through one's glass towards Pelican Point, the
long length of shore was white, as if the surf were beating its sands.
The Captain told us, " No, that's rows and rows of pelicans and
flamingoes — you find
them here in thou-
sands." It certainly
was a wonderful sight.

After dinner we sat
together admiring the
lovely night. The sky
possessed many attrac-
tions— a full moon,
silvery- tinted clouds.

Venus, which in this . .

latitude is resplendent, I

and that much-over-
rated constellation the

Southern Cross. Every- the resident's house with British flag.
one has read since

childhood's days of the luminous Southern Cross ; especially
are its glories depicted in sensational romance, but I fancy
that the writers have never themselves beheld that renowned galaxy
of stars , and in their imagination they paint it in too flattering terms.

" Of course, by rights we should own this bay," asserted a
German, removing his cap and settling his head comfortably back
on a steamer chair.

" It would be very easy to take it," announced another man.
"Send a cruiser down, and we should have no difficulty," he
continued blandly.

" Yes," said I, " but we should soon have one or two cruisers
up from Cape Town. What would happen then ? '

235

A Woman's Winter in Africa

' Oil ! we should take your cruisers also," bumptiously ex-
claimed the first speaker.

' I am not at all sure of that ; and you had better make abso-
lutely certain of the fact before you try," I ventured cautiously.

" Splendid place this bay would prove for a big naval battle-
Trafalgar would be nothing to it."

Then the first man assured me that the whole conversation was
a joke, to see what I would respond. I had taken the subject too
seriously.

He went on to say that the German Emperor above all things
desired peace. He pointed to the Hinterland. *

" Over there," he declared, " we have more territory than we
know what to do with, and it's the same in German East Africa.
What we want is peace, and time to develop the possessions we
already have. Our commerce is enlarging to a tremendous extent ;
from being poor we are becoming through our lengthy period of
peace wealthy — not as yet to the same extent as you English, but,
you see, you started first in Colonial expansion, and being a
strategist in the field have secured the plums."

' Don't be jealous of us," I warned him. ' You were too busy
with your Franco-German war, and had no time to pick up
colonies."

Whereupon we laughed and agreed to banish politics for the
present. As we looked across the bay to those eight " tin " and
wooden houses clustered upon the arid sand, minus a tree or shrub,
and with only one or two tiny lights, I thought it could not be
regarded as a bonne bouche for any nation.

Memory brought to me this incident. About five years ago, at
an English seaside resort, I met a lady whose chief bogey in life
was the dread of invasion by the Germans. She dreamed of it,
lived on it, breathed it. It had become the one subject upon
which her brain focussed. I recall how she confided to me that
she would not buy a new carpet for her dining-room, being positive
the Germans might arrive any day. I have often laughed thinking
of that lady and her haunting dread. Mentally I pictured the
state that ragged carpet must have arrived at if she still retains
the same views !

The next morning the sun shone in splendour, lighting up Wal-
fish Bay, bringing out the delicious pink of the flamingoes, who
had apparently not retired, but had kept their positions all night
236

Walfish Bay

■ — guardians of Point Pelican. Breakfast was no1 announced, and
I went forward, for the workings ol a ship and the cargo always
form an interesting diversion. Here I found a good sized trawler
lull of fish, the crew mostly Portuguese, a ruffianly-looking lot.
I saw a bottle of gin drained by two men who wore busily taking
enormous fish out of wooden bins and landing them into baskets.
These were being sorted and deposited in the hold of our ship.

RESIDENT'S HOUSE AND HOTTENTOT CHURCH.

I asked the captain, who was also overlooking the transference of
the fish, what would be their destination, and he replied:

' These fish, some of which are forty inches or so in length, are
salted, and find favour in Cape Town. Some are sent up-country,
but the greater part are shipped to Mauritius."

To me the idea of sending salted fish, which are called " snoek,"
to an island where there must be quantities of fresh fish seemed
absurd. They resemble large mackerel, with tough, shining skins.
There must be a great demand for them, because all day different

237

A Woman's Winter in Africa

boats arrived, and a heavy cargo was shifted to our steamer,
which in a couple of days sails for Cape Town.

We went ashore and walked along a wooden jetty. In front of
us was a stretch of sand yellowish in colour, sweeping on for miles,
forming a low flat margin. Behind arose the dunes, a tangled
background. The only bit of brightness on the dull, uninteresting
stretch was the dear old Union Jack, which, although it has
dominated many queer places, I doubt if it has ever done duty
over more dismal surroundings ! A row of ugly corrugated-iron
and wooden houses look as if the tides had washed them up as
derelicts. They were not sure of their power of standing. A drab
church of most primitive construction has a central position
amongst the shanties. It is presided over by the Rev. Mr.
Schaible, a German of the Lutheran faith, whose work amidst
the terrible Hottentots forms the saving grace among the native
population.

The white .inhabitants of this village, including the children,
number forty-five, the Hottentots about 650 ; and our possessions
here, the Walfish Bay Territory, comprise approximately 450
square miles. There is a Resident Magistrate, who does his best
for the settlement, and it must require great patience and tact to
keep these aborigines even to a semblance of order, for they are
abcut the most degraded of all our peoples. These Hottentots
have hideous faces, to my mind more repulsive than many of the
lepers at Robben Island. In stature they are short, their colour
is brown, their features distorted, and with their high cheek bones
and narrow, small, slanting eyes are very similar in looks to the
worst type of Chinaman.

Some writers declare that the Hottentots have always
been a weak race, driven hither and thither by the con-
queror ; but I have heard that these natives made a strong-
hold which caused the Germans much difficulty to vanquish during
the war of 1903. This war was started by the Herero tribes, and
cost the Government some twenty millions sterling before it was
ended. Their villages are about two miles inland among the sand
hills. The villagers live in tiny round huts, covered with rags,
sacks, or anything they can find. These are called " Pontocks.''
They are an extremely dirty race, given to all vices. Many of
them suffer from consumption ; they drink tremendously — gin,
rum, or anything that comes their way. I was told by an authority

238

AN AGED HOTTENTOT.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

that on a Sunday morning the church was full of drunken Hot-
tentots.

Can one picture the depraved assemblage with their hideous faces
in a building of worship dedicated to the Omnipotent Being ? The
restraining influence of the Rev.' Mr. Schaible and the Resident
lias reformed them to the extent that they are now mostly sober
when they attend church ! What with the drunken Hottentots
and the ruffianism of those engaged in the whaling industry the
gaols are frequently filled to overflowing. This is a well-known

fact to all who live
in the vicinity, even
the governing people
in authority acknow-
ledging this condition
of affairs.

Walfish Bay does
not make an English-
man proud of this
atom of British ter-
ritory. It could be
easily made respect-
able and decent if the
Government would
not allow the sale nor
landing of spirits. It
is a duty-free port,
and with the aboli-
tion of this, and
severe punishment
when drunkenness was encountered, this blot on a sunshiny
country might without much difficulty be relegated to ancient
history. As it exists now, these Hottentots ask and have
a permit granted them once every two weeks. If they have
money they get uproariously intoxicated. I asked, " Do they do
any damage ? ' The thought occurred to me that in moments
like that they might set the encampment on fire. I was answered,
:< Oh, no, they only fight amongst themselves." How magnani-
mous of them !

On the other hand, although I am grieved to see the con-
trast, at Swakopmund and Luederitzbucht there is no drunken-

240

THE CHURCH OF THE DRUNKEN HOTTENTOTS.

Walfish Bay

ness among the natives/ The Hereros, Ovambos, Bushmen, Bas-
tards, Hottentots, and Bechuanas do not — because, even if
they wished, they cannot obtain strong drink. If anyone is caught
selling intoxicants to- a native he is severely punished. If
there is a second occurrence he is exiled for life from the country.
Consequently, on account of these laws, the undesirable native
goes to Walfish Bay, where the English allow him to imbibe as
long as his money lasts. This certainly should be stopped.

In German South- West Africa every native who has worked must
produce a brass ticket, upon which is his number. When he is
re-employed his master has only to refer to an official book and
his record is known — which certainly is a sensible plan.

I forgot to state that the women follow their lords' example,
faithfully tippling with them ! The Hottentot is a lazy creature,
only about half of them deigning to work. The harvest of fish
from a prolific bay supplies them with practically half of the food
they require, and the remainder is made up of the narra plant.

The Narra Plant

Little has been written on this interesting plant, which could
be utilized by Europeans in many ways. Its botanical name is
Acanthoscyus horrida Weln, and it belongs to the family of
Cuourbitacca. Externally, however, there is a great difference
between this plant and others of the gourd species. The narra
has no leaves, and covers in thick hedges the sides and summits of
the sand-dunes in the arid territory of Walfish Bay. Its green
tendrils are thickly interlaced with sharp thorns at short intervals.
Arranged in pairs, they serve as an excellent protection against
browsing animals. The root of this plant is as thick as a man's
arm, often measuring fifteen metres long, going right down below
the dunes into the damp ground. It has a wonderfully quick
growth, and so withstands the wind, which can never for long
cover up a narra plant with sand. Ever once again the plant rises
victoriously on top of the dune.

The blossoms have five petals, and are remarkable for
their regularity, by which they stand apart from the other
Cuourbitacca. The narra blooms chiefly in October, and
some of the fruit ripens about Christmas time, lasting
until May. The fruit is bigger than a croquet ball, and

Q 24I

A Woman's Winter in Africa

weighs very often over three pounds. When it is ripe, the narra,
like the orange, can easily be divided into ten dvisions, which
contain a great many seeds. Lord Kitchener has sent here for the
seeds to experiment with in the desert of Egypt. The unripe
fruit is very bitter, but the cream-coloured ripe fruit, with its
sweet-sour taste, is so good that even carnivorous animals
such as the jackal like to devour it. The sweetness of the narra is
of great value on account of its high percentage of sugar. It is

WALFISII BAY LANDING PIER.

highly nutritious, and is therefore the chief article of food in the
diet of the natives.

The Hottentot only works when hunger compels him. As
the narra lasts the whole year his existence to his own
mind is fairly happy. The narra fields stretch east as far
as Hudand, 150,000 metres inland, most of which is in German
territory. The real narra time lasts about five months, and begins
about Christmas. Then the natives, young and old, with all their
goods and chattels, migrate to the fields; they carry long sticks,
242

Walfish Bay

with which they knock on each narra, and in this manner tell how
ripe the melon-like fruit lias become. When more uarras are ripe
than they can possibly cat, the remainder are boiled without the
outer peel. When the mash is brownish it is poured through a
small basket or a perforated paraffin tin on to the white sand ;
here it is left to dry in the hot sun. It forms a flat, leathery sub-
stance, which, rolled up, is stored away for the winter's use. The
taste, they tell me, is not bad, only one must get accustomed to ii .

Theseedsof the narra can be separately dried ; theyareabout the
size of a single monkey-
nut, and you crack the
shell and eat them.
They have a peculiar
flavour which I did not
care for. The Hotten-
tot women sit on the
sand munching these
nuts all day long.
These seeds, called
" Butterpits," are also
sold to the merchants
at the Cape. Often
they are pounded into
meal from which cakes
and sweets are made.
The native boy grinds
the seed between two
stones, shell and all,
then boils up the meal,
thus getting with water

a nutritious -soup. It also has another use. For two days
the fruit is laid out in the sun. When very ripe the juice is
pressed out ; then boiled into a syrup, and largely used
in the making of sugar beer. One more facility it has. The
root figures in all medicinal remedies for Hottentots. Therefore
this wonderful plant fulfils numerous missions. If it were better
known to the world at large it might become a priceless article.

Another plant grows on this strange shore. It is found in no
other part of the world ; many botanists journey here expressly to
become familiar with it. The name is Welwitschia — a plant

243

GAMBLING HOTTENTOTS.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

belonging to the order Gnetaceae. It has linear leaves, often
over six feet in length, with cymes of small scarlet cones, within
the scales of which solitary flowers ai_e contained.

We next walked to a bend in the beach where natives were
fishing. The contents of one net as it was pulled in included a
ground shark two and a half yards long, also sea-hare. This
fish has a mouth like its namesake, with large, protruding, hang-
ing-down lips. There were some thorn-fish, small specimens, with
a tiny saw-edged thorn sticking out from each side fin. Steen-
brass were numerous. Hundreds of pounds of fish are caught in
a few hours. About this bend the dead fish lying along the soft
sands formed a kind of silvery wreath to the lapping waves. At
certain periods of the year the catch of soles is so tremendously
heavy that they cannot pull the nets in. Natives cure many of
them for future use.

We returned to the ship for luncheon. In the launch the dis-
tance seems to be about three miles. Most appropriately the
captain had ordered several kinds of fish to be prepared, which we
thoroughly enjoyed.

Coming back late in the afternoon, we arrived off Swakopmund.
The sea went absolutely mad. In the distance the breakers were
churning heights of tangled spray dashing pearls upon the sands.
A lighter is alongside, rising with the tossing waves to great heights,
then subsiding into a valley of angry water. I got into the wooden
two-seated car or chair — either name would describe the con-
trivance. Flop! flop! flop! sounds the lighter as it beats against
the side of Frieda, while the sea water surges over me. I am
jerked up, poised for an instant, and flung into the pitching lighter
with an absolute crash. But one does not think of the bump as
long as one lias landed inside. I hear that rarely an accident
happens, although at times one's hair could justify tradition and
stand absolutely on end !

244

CHAPTER XXXVI

En Route to Wind Jink

ON Good Friday morning I was awakened at five to start my
journey to Windh.uk, the capital of German South-West
Africa, which lies some 390 kilometres direct inland from Swakop-
mund. The train leaves at 6.50, the fare being 48s. All
baggage must be paid for extra. They do not issue return tickets,
for what reason I know not. This is the express train, which runs
twice a week and lands you at Windhuk in thirteen hours. By
ordinary trains the journey extends to about thirty-six hours.

These trains are not at all pretentious, consisting only of the loco-
motive, a couple of baggage cars, and two carriages, the front car
partitioned off for first and second class passengers, the other for
third class. It is a narrow-gauge track, and the line belongs to
the Copper Company. The seats are upholstered in leather, there
being small racks for hand baggage ; as the excess charge is
rather high, one and all try to cram as many things as possible
into their carriages. They do not use sufficient of these for com-
fort ; accommodation is just the limited seat for a passenger, and
one does not look forward .vith pleasure to a long day packed like
sardines. Besides, it is a very hot and dusty journey. Certainly the
"train de luxe" must be unknown in this country. One advan-
tage, it is a beautiful day ; the sun looks down from an azure sky,
and soft cumulus clouds float about, assuming th ? shapes of fan-
tastic fairy islands and lagoons.

We proceed across flat, grey, barren desert, without even rocks
to add a picturesque touch to the monotonous sands. Once or
twice a tin shanty breaks the clear line of the horizon ; in these
the Government dynamite is kept — an appropriate place for it.
Along this entire track, for miles on each side of the line, there
is a steady trail of broken bottles. Anyone can realize this is a
thirsty country ! Occasionally a small collection of sun-bleached
bones is passed, where cattle have died of thirst. These on the
long march from up-country mark the spot.

245

A Woman's Winter in Africa

In the carriage with me some men were talking of an affair which
happened during the previous week. A farmer sent forty cattle down
to Swakopmund in charge of a couple of Kaffirs ; they mistook
the " pat " or way, and the unfortunate animals were kept on
the march several days longer than necessary. When they were
finally driven into Swakopmund they saw the sea and stampeded
for it. Being mad with thirst, they drank quantities of salt water,
and every one died.

If German South-West Africa had more rain it might become
a veritable Eldorado with its rich unfilled soil, its mines and
perfect climate. Unfortunately, like nearly the whole of Africa,

there is not sufficient
rain.

News comes from

the interior that this

year will be a bad one

for farmers. It is most

disheartening for them,

who after all are the

main support of the

country. Most curious

plants raise themselves

and struggle to live in

this arid waste. They

look like ghosts of

others, as if their former existence had been wicked and their

reincarnation took this form, and they were condemned to live

without moisture to parch their everlasting thirst ! Some resemble

old dead bushes ; others wear a faded grey colour, in keeping with

the sands ; yet Nature has not forgotten even the meanest of her

subjects, for these ugly ducklings of the plant family each have a

tiny bloom which glows on the parent stem.

Native villages reel past, and Ebony is reached, the station
consisting of one tiny house. Whoever lives here has tried to
produce a little greenery. Wild tobacco plants have been reared
in paraffin tins, and a few stunted aloe trees strive to repay by
fitful shade the precious water which is daily given to them.
Empty bottles inserted in the sand lay out in designs a tiny
garden. Close by about fifty " Pontocks " are grouped together.
This is a Herero settlement, and the huts, or " Pontocks," are

246

STREET SCENE, WINDHUK.

Eri Route to Windhuk

built of benl wood slicks. In construction they are rather like a
wicker bird-cage; clay is plastered on to retain the shape, after
which bits of tin, rags, and other odd pice, are tied and nailed
to the construction, forming the circular home.

I should fancy they would be very hot and stuffy in summer,
also cold in winter ; so it is not to be wondered at that many of the
people die of typhoid and consumption. Their cooking-pots
usually lean against the outside of the hut, while a common kitchen
is often shared by several families. You see some tin sheets placed
round an open hre, and the iron pots boiling.

Many of the Herero women gather to look at the train. They
are mostly tall, with good figures, and wear long cotton skirts fully
gathered around the waist, a short bodice, sleeveless, which reaches
just below the breast, leaving the body exposed. Their hair is
gathered on the top of the head, round which are wound cotton
handkerchiefs, forming a high-standing turban. They love bright
colours. On many I have noticed a canary cotton gown bordered
with orange or red. Their skin is of dull black — in texture re-
sembling velvet. The babies — all the women appeared with
several toddling beside them — were quite nude. One gentleman
in the train threw away a collar, and a mother put it around a
baby's neck ; he looked odd with nothing on his little black body
except this white battlement !

The Herero tribe, which cost the Germans the war of 1903, until
1906 had a " De Wet' amongst them, who led with clever
shrewdness. He was afterwards confined in Cape Colony, and
trying to escape was shot. The Hereros were the aristocrats of
the country ; they owned the land and were rich in cattle, the
Kaffirs being henchmen to them. These tribes, especially the
Hottentots, have always given trouble from the earliest days,
when the Portuguese explorers first arrived on their shores. In
i486 Bartholomew Dias, with his two small ships, landed on the
coast near Cape Agulhas — the first white man to see Hottentot
and Bushman tribes. He endeavoured to open an intercourse
with them, but they were frightened at the ships and white
visitors, and immediately disappeared into the Hinterland, driving
their herds of cattle before them.

It was Dias who christened the Cape of Good Hope the Cape
of Storms, since he had experienced such bad weather off the
coast. Thus it remained until King John II changed the name

247

A Woman's Winter in Africa

to the Cape of Good Hope. Ten years after Da Gama with his
tiny fleet made an entry. They tried to buy cattle from the
Hottentots, but were attacked ; Da Gama himself and three of
his men were severely wounded with the poisoned assegais. De
Saldanha, another Portuguese commander, following in 1503, was
the first man to climb the top of Table Mountain, to which he
gave the name, but was assaulted by the Hottentots, and several
of his small party beaten. So it continued through the entire
history of early Cape Colonists.

The Dutch and the English had many native wars. In 1903 there
was trouble with the Hottentots in the South. The acting Governor

.-.

USAKOS.

went amongst them to decide and readjust their grievances. The
Hereros of the North had long been awaiting an opportunity to
rebel, but feared the Governor. Later, rumour came from the
Hottentots that the Governor had been killed. This was the
chance for which the Hereros had been waiting. At nightfall they
commenced their slaughter, and with their " kirris " (a heavy-
headed stick) beat 124 farmers to death on January 13th, 1904.
They even spared no women.

Now the Kaffirs are allowed to own land as a reward for their
neutrality during the fierce war, but not the Hereros. The
Bastards, a mixture of Boer and Hottentots, helped the Germans.
The Hottentots have a reservation for themselves, and are policed
by their own race.
248

En Route to Windhuk

We now pass thousands of milk bushes scattered over the
desert. The plant grows more vigorously the farther we go, and
some of the bushes arc quite six feel in height, spreading their
thick spiky shoots over a large spaee. On tapping these shoots a
thick milky substance flows. At one time it was thought it could
be utilized in the production of artificial rubber, but up to now
this has not been a success. The natives cut down the prolific
plant, burning it for fuel.

The Roessing Mountains show lovely colourings, and on our
right the Khan, a double range, rises as blue as the far-famed
Alsatians ; the river which should flow at their base, sadly
enough, is waterless. The train pulls up at Usakos, and we have

KARIBIB.

a wait of forty-five minutes in which to take our luncheon. This
is quite a pretty town, with gardens, and the verandahs are veiled
by green creepers. The station is neatly built of brick ; several
mountains look down upon the place, and a fine church stands
out boldly. Here are situated the repairing shops for the railway,
which employ many Europeans. The Director lives close by,
and altogether the town has an up-to-date and flourishing
air.

We go across to the Hotel Rosemann, which possesses a nice
garden where oleanders and sunflowers are growing. It is a
pleasure again to encounter trees and flowers after the miles of
desert. Luncheon was fair, costing two and a half marks, and
they served ice-cold beer on draught. On we go through a part
of the country which is given over to thorn trees and scrub.

249

A Woman's Winter in Africa

The trees must be dangerous for cattle, as huge thorns project in
every direction, nevertheless I remarked a goat chewing some
with evident relish, as if they were not at all bad.

Occasionally an ostrich farm is seen, and although there are a
good many feather farmers in this region they have met with very
little success compared with their neighbours in Cape Colony. There
is such an amount of waste land that I fail to see, unless some rich
mines are discovered — they are perpetually prospecting — how the
country can be successful from an agriculturist's point of view.
I have talked with farmers and business men who have been here
some twenty years, and they say that a farmer should have at
least £5000 to buy and stock a really good farm. Then if
there is no rain, crops fail, what is he to feed his cattle on ?
Farming machinery wears out, it is expensive, and must be
replaced.

For two years now the harvest has failed, the farmers naturally
going through hard times. There is little real cash in the country,
and traders are reluctantly compelled to give long credit, which is
not profitable, many of the agriculturists mortgaging their farms to
keep them going. A Boer told me that in Africa, after suffering
two years of insufficient rainfall, the third year would usually
bring too much ; then in nine cases out of ten a locust storm
arrives to eat up everything !

I remember once, about ten years ago, I was in the train,
leaving Bloemfontein for Johannesburg, when a sudden cloud
appeared to cover the face of the sun. Instantly flocks of long
sticky locusts invaded our compartment. Naturally we had the
windows closed as soon as possible, but they lay in hundreds on
the floor. Looking out, the entire landscape was dark with them ;
they hung in clusters three or four deep on each blade of grass,
eating the entire green of the locality. This army of locusts was
so thick, and the engine had crushed them in such quantities, the
oil of their bodies made the wheels go round and round, so we were
obliged to wait quite a long time until the plague had passed. 1
shall never forget it — a horrible sight.

At Karibib one changes for the wide gauge of the Government
Railway, the carriages being decidedly more comfortable. Okasise
is situated amidst rich farm lands. It is well wooded, and gives
one an interesting view of Colonial life. Perhaps we arrived on
market day, for many people were about. I saw two nicedooking

250

En Route to Windhuk

young girls, real Amazons, of a splendid type. They were mounted
astride, and wore grey skirls, scarlet blouses, and wide grey fell
hats buttoned up on one side (d la militaire). By the way they
handled their horses it was obvious they spent much time in the
saddle. Many wagons piled with farm produce were drawn by
oxen, ten pairs the usual number for one eart. Sometimes 1 hex-
use as many as twenty-four oxen to one wagon.

At ten minutes past eight the train drew up at Windhuk, on
one of the loveliest moonlight nights imaginable.

251

CHAPTER XXXVII

Windhuk (The Mount of Wind), so railed by the
Natives

^T EVER shall I forget arriving at the Hotel Rheinischer Hof,
\ Windhuk, the capital of German South-West Africa. It
was made sublime by the moon, which I had been watching from
the train for an hour or so as it rose resplendent, peeped over the
frowning mountain, poised its globe of silvery light on the darkest

RAILWAY STATION, WINDHUK.

peaks, and afforded a magnificent spectacle of dignified mystery.
From Swakopmund I had wired to this hotel for rooms ; I heard
I should be rather at a loss here, because only some half a dozen
people spoke English. I felt keenly anxious that the hotel would
send someone to help me with my baggage.

The station was very dark, for there is no electric light as yet,
and a crowd of people had gathered. In all places where there is

252

Windhuk

nothing to do one of the entertainments is to be at the station
and watch the mail train come in. An aged man who sal next
to me in the compartment tried to speak a few words of French.
He had shared my very nice box of chocolates, which had been a
parting gift from Cape Town. I also had a bottle of good white
wine, which in this country one has to pay 8s. for. When I took
a glass, as the way was very hot and dusty, I ottered my fellow-
voyager one, thinking, poor man ! he had nothing with him
and must be thirsty. Just before pulling into the station this

WINDHUK.

travelling companion arose to pack his bag, and carefully deposited
his two bottles of wine inside ! It amused me very much, for he
had drunk most of mine, thereby saving his own for future use
when he had not a generous-hearted person next to him.

With a smile I thought of these words : ' There are none to
refuse your nectared wine, but alone you must drink life's gall."
My stingy friend did not wait to see if I was met by anyone-
having got all he could his selfish thought was to be off, so he
extended a dirty hand and disappeared.

After a long wait a man announced that he was from the
Rheinischer Hof. I tried to speak to and understand him, but he

253

A Woman's Winter in Africa

did not know as much English as I knew German. A few minutes
■passed, then he said : ' I been to Cape. You not think I speak
English? ' I fear I answered crossly, "No, you can't speak it
at all." He took it in good part, realizing his deficiency. A light
dogcart was waiting, with a pair of greys ; he motioned me to
climb in, and we drove a short distance down a wide road. It
was not at all necessary to have a carriage, except on account of
the dust, which is inches deep, for the hotel was diagonally opposite
the station. There are no cabs or public conveyances at YVindhuk.

Arriving at the hotel I was shown through a narrow hall, which
was nearly dark, and taken into an open space which might be
called a dismal court or a downtrodden garden. The room my
guide showed was terrible. I protested. My man of the station
remonstrated, saying : " Das ist ze bessest hotel here." Quick
as lightning I wondered what the " worstest ' would be ! I
steadfastly refused to accept the horrible room, and the man, who
I afterwards found out was the proprietor, disappeared into the
darkness, leaving me standing in the dim house, lit only by a
single candle. Various black boys eyed me with mild curiosity,
thinking, no doubt, I was a peculiar specimen.

Then Max, the waiter, came upon the scene. Thank the gods,
he spoke English, and, like many waiters, had been all over the
world. I confided to him my opinion of the hotel and accom-
modation offered ; he assured me it would be all right to-morrow,
they'd make me most comfortable. I doubt it, but am obliged to
retire into a miserable room. There is no lock to the door — ■
pardon, there is a lock, but the key is missing — also in building
this queer hostel they have forgotten to arrange for bells. Max
informs me there is a telephone on the next landing which con-
nects with the bar. I am glad there is some communicating link
with something, as I feel a lonely outcast.

Preposterously I ask for a bath — naturally this is not possible.
:< Morgen," they say. I must become an optimist until the magic
" Morgen " dawns, when, it would appear, all my wishes are to
be gratified. I splash about in a hand basin, and feel my way
to a hard, creaking bed. My baggage, five pieces in all, is left
where the blacks dumped it down, and forms a sort of dusty
island in my little room.

The " Imp of Travel " and I have a long mental discussion,
and I inflict upon the sprite my opinion of tempters — retribution,

^54

Windhuk

to die ; the opening up of the country by farmers and prospectors,
a greal nation assuming control and establishing law in a wild

country.

Afterwards the natives rebelled, and were unsuccessful and
merciless in their endeavours to drive the white men from their
land, using the most deplorable methods of revenge. They were
a well-armed foe, and extremely cunning in all the tactics of bush
warfare. They knew their country, and where the precious water
lay. During the war, as they were conquered and beaten back

step by step, their deadly project was to poison ever}/ spot at
which the German soldiers might drink. By this vile, pitiless
vengeance hundreds of soldiers laid down their arms and lives.

Here it was that " Wit Boy " took up the general leadership,
and was brutal. Now the relatives and remainder of Wit Boy's
tribe, Hottentots, are kept Government prisoners at Okanjanda,
where they are occupied in making and mending shoes for the
soldiers.

Missionary Vedder has performed much charitable work on
their behalf. He has made a special study of the Hottentot, and

R 257

A Woman's Winter in Africa

in his research work traces the tribe from China, down through
Egypt, to Africa. Previously they must have had intercourse
with the Semitic race, as many words of their language corre-
spond with the same ones in the Hebrew tongue. The hair on the
Hottentot's head grows in a most peculiar manner — short wiry tufts
like peppercorns, leaving spots and patches on the scalp quite
bare. They certainly are freaks of Nature.

Windhuk is beautifully situated on a high plateau, surrounded

by a circular chain of
mountains, whose dif-
ferent peaks and val-
leys gather the sun-
shine into cradles of
light and shadow,
.-- '<*' producing most

wBHy Bk charming effects. It

f^ is the seat of the

Government and the
military headquarters
therefore the home
of the leading officials.
There is much more
society in 'Windhuk
than in Swakopmund,
which is the port,
and mostly given
over to commercial
interests. The army
consists of 1900 regu-
lar soldiers, besides
2000 reserves, as
naturally every German has passed his Army qualifications and
is capable of taking up arms at a moment's notice.

In my opinion conscription is an excellent thing, and I wish
we had it in England. Every man should be taught discipline,
and know how to fight if need be for his country. There is not
much in this capital of interest to the globe-trotter, comparatively
speaking, as it is entirely new ; but in the short time it has developed
into a presentable and, on account of its natural advantages, a
beautiful town. It is the centre of large farming districts, hundreds

258

MEMORIAL TO THE HEKERO WAR

Windhuk

of cattle and sheep arc constantly moving along the wide unpaved
streets. In the many shops of the main thoroughfare, called
Kaiserstrabe, the dealers display every sort of goods adapted
to the country. Pretty things are absent from their premises,
but large open yards contain every kind of mowing, planting, and
other agricultural machines.

The horses are splendid. I have seen some fine specimens.
A milk-white Arab stallion was a beauty. Nearly everyone drives
a pair in a light yellow two-seated carriage. The roads are very
dusty. There are no private motor-cars, but the Government

WINDHUK.

have two — one a huge car of 60 h.p., which is often used by the
kind permission of the authorities to rush a doctor out to the
farms in case of sudden serious illness. Only a very heavy and
expensive car could last on these newly made and rocky roads.

The houses are modern, built in brick and stucco. No one has
a very large establishment, even Government House being com-
paratively small ; but it is placed in a pretty garden and commands
a magnificent view. The roofs of most of the houses are painted
a vivid scarlet, which shows up well against the hill landscape.
The new railway station is a most imposing edifice, and vies in
splendour with the church and post office. A new building, which

259

A Woman's Winter in Africa

will be by far the largest yet erected, is now in course of erection
on the hillside. It is to be the official headquarters, and an
officer laughingly told me it had already been named " The Ink
Palace."

Windhuk is] very well] provided with churches, hospitals,
and schools which many European towns would be proud of.
The Elizabeth Haus is an excellent hospital for ladies ; it was
given by a Bavarian Princess bearing that name, and has a salu-
brious position on the top of the Ridge looking down into the
town, while from the distant mountain-tops a splendid panoramic
view is obtained ; there are also hospitals for the officers, men,
and natives. The Catholic Mission does a great deal of good work
amongst the natives.

The climate is scorching at midday, but the mornings and
evenings are cool and delightful. It is very dry, and being high
above sea-level most exhilarating. In the winter, principally
June and July, the nights are so cold that water is often frozen
in the jugs, and one must melt it before washing. At 10 a.m. it
will moderate and become quite warm, but there is a terrible
drop in the temperature at night. Fortunately very little malarial
fever exists in these parts, but one must be careful of the water,
for typhoid claims many victims during the year.

Around Windhuk trees are mostly the ugly thorn, which affords
little shade, and stunted pines. Very many pepper trees attain a
good height and have long bunches of round scarlet berries
hanging in clusters, giving a pretty decorative air. Aloes are
plentiful, and have a high stiff red bloom standing on the tree-top.
The proprietor of the hotel told me that when he walked here
from Swakopmund, which he accomplished in fifteen days in
1905 — eighteen years ago — the entire town possessed only five
houses. Now the population consists of 2000 white people in
Windhuk, and 70,000 natives for the entire country.

I am beginning to get used to this hotel. I accept the Hottentots
as a blessing, for on the balcony outside my room they have placed
a table in order that I may sit there and write. This is the scene I
look upon : The open yard or compound is filled with pepper trees,
a huge round, unsightly water-tank of corrugated iron stands in the
centre, and from this, all day long, tall dark women and Hottentot
boys are filling buckets for washing and gardening purposes. The
railway station looms above the pepper trees, its cream-coloured

260

Windhuk

sides and red trimmings producing an effective impression. Then
rises the Ridge on a high promontory which encircles Windhuk
on one side. Breaking the line of the horizon on the Ridge there
are, I should say, more than a thousand Pontocks or native
huts there appears to be a whole colony of them.

One of the pleasantesl things to do is to drive along the Ridge
as the sun is setting — from here the view is beautiful. It was mosl
interesting to me to drive through this settlement of Pontocks
and watch the native life. These people are well clothed in cotton,
the children are naked, all appearing perfectly content and happy
in their free open-air existence. Their huts were a mixture of
rags and sheets of tin tacked on irregularly, in any odd fashion. At
sunset the open-air fires are roaring, the evening meal is being
prepared, a tinkle of some musical instrument rings out, and danc-
ing children stop for a moment to wave their hands smilingly as
I drive by.

The words of Miss Mary Kingsley, that first courageous pioneer
of women travellers, come to my mind. " Ah me ! if the aim
of life were only happiness and pleasure, Africa should send us
missionaries instead of our sending them to her."

Windhuk is justly renowned for its superb sunsets: never in
any part of the world have I seen more brilliant colourings and
finer fantastic effects in clouds. Anyone travelling in this part
should allow nothing to interfere with his watching the sun go
down .

In the Kaiserstrabe, the principal street, where most of the
business houses are, a trolley runs for the transport of mer-
chandise. Here one finds the banks, substantially built of brick,
and one or two shops for women's clothing. I tried to find a
curio shop, but was unsuccessful. I had heard that Windhuk
was a good place in which to buy skins, and had seen beautiful
specimens in the homes I had the privilege of visiting — the
springbok, in red, brown and white, which they use for rugs on
the floor ; white angora, with wild cat ; also handsome cushions
designed in patchwork of various skins. There is one very good
shop at Swakopmund, so I must wait until I return.

Several hotels occupy the main street, but some of them mas-
querade as bars. After the Rheinischerhof, the next best resi-
dential hotel would be the Stud Windhuk. My hotel charges
10 and 12 marks a day en pension, baths extra. They have a

261

A Woman's Winter in Africa

large brewery at Windhuk, also one at Little Windhuk ; the beer
is kept very cold, and most of the people drink it. One mark a
glass is charged, which is also the price of a bottle of mineral
water, the Sprudel Sauerbrunn being the favourite. In consider-
ing the price one must remember that this water is sent all the
way from Germany.

Wines are expensive. Ordinary claret and white wine, which
we pay 3s. for at home, out here costs 10s. ; even Cape wine,
which at the Mount Nelson Hotel was 3s., here has doubled its
price. A whiskey-and soda is quoted at is. 6d. King George is
not forgotten, for they have a whiskey bearing his name, which
is supposed to be bottled in Edinburgh. I had never heard of
the brand before, but that is nothing — I am not a connoisseur in
spirits ! They charge 12s. a bottle for whiskey.

The hotel has a front verandah, and really nice, comfortable
cane chairs. Some of the affluent and fashionable of Windhuk con-
gregate here to sip beer. The officers are frequent visitors. Last
night several of them arrived from the hinterland, and a large
dinner-party was arranged. I liked to see them appreciate their
food after the long sojourn of camp life. They were very much
bronzed, and what a contrast where the tanned skin met the
natural white that had been protected by a forage cap !

Yesterday we had another arrival which interested me. This
was a family who looked like Boers — man, wife, and two daughters
of, say, 20 and 22. They own a huge farm many miles out in
the country. They arrived at the side entrance of the compound ;
a dusty covered Cape cart drew up with ten span of oxen ; you
could tell that they had been long on the way, as several of the
oxen immediately lay down, notwithstanding they were yet
yoked. The man was a typical Boer, dressed in khaki, his face
burnt a dark red-brown, and he had a beard which certainly had
not of late had much attention ; his broad-brimmed felt hat was
buttoned up at one side.

His wife was plain, with hair drawn tightly back from an ugly
face. Her clothes looked as if they had been thrown on. The
young daughters were as hard and brown as parchment ; their
hands and arms being exposed, were almost the colour of bricks.
But this family deserve pity, for they are suffering, and are in
the midst of a terrible tragedy. They have left the farm,
coming all these weary miles to support their father, who

262

H
D
O

<!
IS
ai
H
O

A Woman's Winter in Africa

in two days has to stand before the Court and be tried for
murder.

Some few months ago the farmer had many of his cattle
poisoned by Kaffirs who had a grudge against him, and catching
one of the Kaffirs, shot him immediately. Then commenced
great trouble. Not a Kaffir would work or remain on his extensive
farm ; consequently, having no help except his own family, his
girls had to take care of the cattle and do men's work. They were
in the saddle from morn till night, and it is said that one of them
was obliged to ride all night in order to restrain the cattle from
breaking into the mealie fields.

Their advent has caused quite an excitement at quiet Windhuk.
Naturally there is a great deal of difference in public opinion

regarding this family ;
some saying they have
been cruel and flogged
the Kaffirs unmerci-
fully. An officer, one
P*L$8l& $"&r *• J&5 ••■* ^^ of the highest officials

of the Government,
explained to me :
' There is no doubt
that the family have
taken the law into
their own hands and
treated the natives
badly. Now, we can-
not allow that, but must make an example of them. We
want to rule the country with justice, and cannot have the blacks
say that the white man has no care nor consideration for the
rights of the native." Although sorry for these people, one
must admit the justice in this officer's view of the case. The
result of the trial was that the farmer was found guilty and
sentenced to four months' imprisonment, also being fined.

I drove to Little Windhuk, a mile or two distant, where many
small farms and gardens are planted. The view was extremely
beautiful, bounded by mountains ; also there are several vineyards,
from which a very good light wine is produced. It is here that
most of the vegetables are grown for Windhuk. I noticed many
large thorn trees, which bear a long, light green pod ; in the

264

TRAVEL IN OVAMBOLAND.

Windhuk

distance it looks as n the tree were abloom with a peculiar

flower.

Windhuk has a most interesting Museum, which is at presenl
still in the making. It contains a magnificent collection of twisted
horns, with some small stuffed leopards. These cats are frequent
unwelcome visitors to the camps outside. A specimen of the rare
Bastard Buck is there ; also some line Bushmen's paintings
found on the Krongo Mountain sides, and a case of gorgeously

BUSHMEN S PAINTINGS ON MOUNTAIN NEAR WINDHUK.

plumaged birds. For some reason the birds rarely sing in this
country.

An interesting reminder of the great diamond rush to Liiede-
ritzbucht was the stake planted in the sand, signifying the
claims of ' Aug. Staunch 663." He was the first man who
testified that the pebbles the native found were actual diamonds.
The dark oak chair and table of " Wit Boy," King of the Hot-
tentots, are shown. They are said to have been presented to him
by the Boers, their manufacture being undoubtedly Dutch. There
were any number of snakes coiled in bottles — the puff adder,
with its tiny sack of deadly poison, and the black mamba, whose
slightest touch means death. 1 noticed the skull of a lion with
perfect teeth which Nemesis had overtaken, for this beast had

265

A Woman's Winter in Africa

stolen a soldier from camp and consumed him. A whale's eye
certainly looked weird as it continually stared at you from a glass
jug ! Many native curios were next examined, including the
dancing chains of the Bastards, which make a kind of music
when in motion. The tout ensemble consists of a miscellaneous
mass which forms the basis of an important Museum for future
generations.

In driving to the official quarters of

Windhuk one passes
small botanical

garden, in which
experiments are be-
ing made as to the
growth of foreign
trees and plants in
this country. A fine
equestrian memorial
near the big church
shows the loyal ap-
preciation of the
citizens for their com-
rades who fell in the
war. Everyone rides,
and the principal
diversions are picnics
in some pretty select-
ed spot , visiting
friends on the large
farms, and hunting.
There are no theatres,
but even this hidden-

away town is not without its cinematograph show !

Windhuk is distinctly different from other capitals. I thoroughly

enjoyed my stay, and from a traveller's point of view I should

certainly advise a visit. The 390 kilometres en route through this

picturesque country well repay one.

I take this opportunity of again thanking those kind friends

who contributed so much to my delightful sojourn in their

very pleasant capital.

" Imp " declares Windhuk a nice place.

MEMORIAL

FOR THOSE WHO
HERERO WAR.

FELL

THE

2.66

CHAPTER XXXVIII

■ "'■,:

Swakopmund

ON my return from Windhuk the first object I looked for in
the morning from my bedroom window was to sec if the
Steiermark had yet departed for Liiederitzbucht. I knew she must
discharge cargo here, then sail to the diamond port, perform the
same office, return, and load again before proceeding along the
West Coast. To my utter disappointment, there she lay as before,
out in the roadstead still discharging miscellaneous wares. Surely
she must have brought half Europe ; or, as this is her maiden tour,
possibly she desires to take full advantage, coquetting with every
port as long as pos-
sible. Maybe she
dreads the North and
does not wish to re-
turn. I appeal to

Imp," but the sprite
seems to have vanished
through the window ;
this is a habit it has
when I get an attack
of nerves or wish to
complain.

Soon after breakfast
I again appear at the Woermann Linie office, but there
is no satisfaction to be obtained. Cargo is king — every-
thing subservient to it. They do not even know themselves
when the ship leaves. I ask if no steamer of any kind steams
North. ' Not one," is the answer ; ' nothing but the Stcicvmark
until the first of May." Even if I had millions they would avail
me nothing in the circumstances. I must wait.

What can I do at Swakopmund ? ' Imp " whispers, " Nothing,"
and it's true. Swakopmund was born on a low bank, and she has
never been able to cast off her relation — superfluous sand. The

267

SWAKOPMUND.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

KAISLRHOF HOTEL.

horizon is blocked by it, and the moment you step off the broad

wood pavement it encases your feet to the ankles. If you look

down the wide streets, everything ends in sand. Two things I

must admit to its
credit — it has a good
climate. The residents
say no, but I write of
my personal experi-
ence ; and there have
been clear, sunshiny
days during my long
stay. " Wait until you
see a fog," warningly
say some people.

Sometimes there is
a heavy, damp sea
mist in the morning,

but by nine o'clock it has been dried up by the mighty Phoebus,

who allows no rival along these shores. It seldom rains, practically

not at all, and one is sure of glorious sunshine- — which Londoners

will agree with me is

indeed a blessing.
Another object of

interest and beauty is

the surf. It rolls on

the gilded beach in

heavy jade rollers,

white-headed, which

dash themselves to

death on the hard

sands. Swakopmund

is the port for Wind-

lmk and the northern

part of the country.

Copper is its princi-
pal export ; some

marble conies down from the quarries at Karibib, while a

comparatively small quantity of ostrich feathers is exported ;

also skins and horns.

Imports, however, are enormous, as nearly everything has to be

268

LIGHTHOUSE. SWAKOPMUND.

Swakopmund

brought to this country. Greal expectations have been aroused
by finding the mines, but up to date disappointment lias been the
lot of mosl prospectors, although they find traces of minerals,
especially tin and coal, but not in payable quantities.

The residents, except the officials, are mostly traders from
Germany, who have branches all over the country and deal in
general merchandise and Kaffir goods. The shipping lines, banks,
and commercial houses have built artistic-looking buildings in
brick and stucco. About seven or eight squares in the centre of
the town have broad sidewalks. There are twelve kilometres of
trolley lines in the town ; but trucks are drawn by horses, and by
this means all trans-
port is carried on. For
conducting you to the
railway station a long,
flat, wooden car ap-
pears before your hotel;
numerous Kaffirs de-
posit your baggage on
the back of it ; a
chair is then placed,
and thus enthroned
among your posses-
sions you pass through
the dusty streets.

Yesterday I saw a
funeral conducted in a
manner I had never before witnessed, but it was arranged
as well as possible considering the accommodation of the place.
The bottom of a trolley was strewn with evergreen boughs — ■
flowers here being worth nearly their weight in gold — and on
the top was placed the coffin. Two black tassels decorously
decorated the horses' heads, while the family and mourners,
perhaps twenty-four or so, dressed in deepest mourning,
were sitting in chairs on the trolley, accompanying the
dead.

Swakopmund is healthy, the fresh, invigorating sea - breeze
cleansing the atmosphere continually. Many people from up-
country, where it is very hot, use the place as a seaside resort.
I have never seen bathing indulged in, although the beach looks

269

STREET SCENE, SWAKOPMUND.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

smooth enough. They say the water is terribly cold on account
of a current which flows along the coast.

In all the German colonial towns much attention has been given
to public buildings. There is a fine Lutheran church, built only
two years ago ; the Catholic community also having their abode
of reverence. The Antonius Hospital is a fine modern structure,
built by public subscription, for Europeans, and has paying wards.
Then there are the post office, courts of justice, Deutsch Afrika
Bank, and the splendid offices of Woermann, Brock, and Co., with
tall red and -white tower which can be seen for miles at sea. All
these would prove a credit to many provincial cities in England.

There are two schools,
one being maintained
by the Government
and the other pri-
vately. Population
in Swakopmund con-
sists of 616 men,
349 women, and 344
children, making a
total of 1309 white
inhabitants and 1400
natives.

A curious custom
of the better-class
natives, the Hereros, is that the men wear large felt hats turned
up abruptly at the side, in which are stuck several ostrich
feathers of inferior quality, giving quite a rakish air of
distinction. The well-figured black Herero women have the
appearance of complete happiness ; they continually laugh,
showing milk-white teeth, and wear turbans on their heads,
beads, and full-gathered skirts.

A lighthouse some sixty feet high breaks the monotony of the
level sands ; painted in the German colours and flashing con-
stantly. Like a sentinel it stands, and all night its beams play
peekaboo through my window. Water is obtained from the
Swakop, a mile or two distant. This is an underground river ;
rarely does it flow on the sur ace, only when there has been very
heavy rain in the mountains. It is pumped by electricity, stored
in tanks, and through iron pipes laid on to the houses. The

PRINCIPAL STREET, SWAKOPMUND.

270

Swakopmund

quality of the wafer is not good, but very brackish ; you taste h
especially in tea and coffee. For washing purposes it is most

unpleasant, and one has to soften it with borax or toilel vinegar.

Shipping in this open roadstead has many disadvantages on
account of the ever-restless surf. The old jetty, which extends
300 metres, is shortly to be replaced by a new one extending 650
metres into the sea, and when completed will have cost the Govei n
ment £200,000. Many trees — evergreen firs, pine — have been
planted in the streets, which will in time greatly beautify the place.
Vegetation appears to have a better chance of existence here than
at Liiederitzbucht.

A tiny strip of
sandy soil inhabited
by a few dusty trees
the Municipality calls
a park. Those trees
certainly are the only
things which in the
least justify the name.
It also contains a
rough granite monu- *vl-

^.w«l,1

ment erected as a

memorial to the brave shops, swakopmund.

sailors who lost their

lives in the late Herero war. The two bronze figures are very

well designed. One soldier still holds his rifle defending, while

his hapless comrade lies dead at his feet.

Of hotels, Swakopmund has several, of different classes; the
Kaiserhof and the Fiirst Bismarck being the best. I have stayed
at both, but prefer the latter, as it is quieter and the attendance
better. Some of the rooms are quite nice, and the food is as good
as one can get in this part of the country. The charges at the
Kaiserhof have been raised to twelve and fourteen marks a day.
At the Fiirst Bismarck one has pension for ten marks.

271

CHAPTER XXXIX

" Steiermark " : Life on a Cargo-boat

AFTER 'getting myself settled and
a few belongings unpacked, in the
] second officer's cabin, which has been

given up for my occupation, I inspect
the ship. Captain Schutt does all in his
power to make me feel at home, and I
1 begin to do so.

My cabin is of good size, with electric
: light and a readingdamp, which for me

.. „ is an absolute blessing. The berth is

'steiermark. f

rather high, but underneath are six
drawers, and all lady travellers will appreciate what that means.
A leather couch is on one side, and a large wardrobe fills the
corner on the other. The second officer has quite an art gallery
hanging on the walls — photographs of relatives — and a bracket
with a cover on which fond fingers have embroidered white silk
daisies. Some comrades on the Cincinnati are enjoying a glass
together in another photograph.

At meals in the small but comfortable salon there are the captain,
first officer, chief engineer, and myself. I must not forget my
fellow-passenger who enjoys bones on the floor. Her dog name
we don't know, but as she is going to join her master, an officer at
Lome, Togoland, we have christened her " Lome," and already
she answers to it.

' Lome " is a well-bred wolf boarhound. She wears a fine brown
brindle coat, possesses a long wavy tail, and has beautiful eyes and
pointed ears. Already she has attached herself to the captain,
sleeping outside his cabin. She is very amiable to me. We are a
small party, but everyone is pleasant and kind, and the food
excellent and plentiful. The officers work hard, there being much
cargo to look after. When the meal is over I go up to the captain's
deck, where I have a chair, and it is most interesting to see them
272

• I ...

" Steiermark '

stow cargo — the winches rattling, the ropes swinging, the greal
yawning hold, and the shouts of men guiding the steel cables
which deposit the cargo in its place.

There is plenty to see. Then the bit; chart is always spread out,
and you can pick up the ship's position studying the line of sea
and shore. At noon J watch the black boys gather round the cook-
house in the fo'castle. Their rags flap picturesquely about them
as they take up their positions with a good-sized white enamelled
basin and spoon. Most of them eat with the said spoon; some,
however, prefer to use their fingers. A large portion of rice (the
same amount for each) is served ; then, clutching their basins,
each picks out a fa-
vourite site upon which
to eat, standing or
squatting.

What laughter and
chatter follows, as con-
tentedly they sit in the
hot sunshine with no
fear of burning their
skins ! Rows of gleam-
ing teeth are displayed
as a good story is told.
I lean over the rail
looking at these na-
tives, and wisli heartily I could understand what they are saying.

I asked the captain if he knew. " Oh, it's money or woman
palaver," he replies—" that's all they talk about." Although the
deck is not large, two big surf-boats are lashed on top, but there
is plenty of room to sit about. The sea is like a globe of glass.
It is beginning to get warm, and sleep becomes difficult in my
cabin. Humid heat is so very trying. Tast night I endeavoured
to sleep on two chairs placed in a corner of the deck. It was a
glorious darkness, on one side a new moon shining in silvery
splendour, on the other continual unconventional fireworks pro-
vided free by Nature in the form of heat-lightning ; but by mid-
night I got so cramped I was obliged to seek the seclusion of my
cabin. Next day good Captain Schiitt discovered an electric fan
and had it arranged for me, and it proved a great comfort.

The quiet on board this ship is most restful. It is a happy, indolent

DANISH CARGO-BOAT.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

life — happy because there is no news from the outside world. It
is no use to worry about anything at home, for you cannot aid or
avoid circumstances, no matter what they are. There is plenty of
time for reading, philosophizing, and writing. What a wonderful
cure a voyage on a cargo-boat like this would prove to a worn and
jaded business-man — the air plentifully laden with pure ozone,
no telephones to rush to and answer, no letters to think out — just
peace and rest.

Proceeding towards the Equator it gradually becomes hotter.
This morning the temperature of the sea-water in the bath was
delightful — pleasantly warm but refreshingly cool.

Having passed along the shores of French Equatorial Africa, a
long stretch of verdure appears. We enter the large bay of Cape
Lopez (or Mandy). This lies between Cape Lopez and Fetish
Point, at the extremity of which is Fetish Village, but most of the
houses are falling to pieces, as the hamlet has been abandoned.
Very likely a ju-ju has been working ill luck here ! The shores are
low and covered with mangroves. The Kondo and Tombe waters
form the mouth of the great Ogowe River, Cape Lopez being the
southern limit of the huge Bight of Biafra, the shores of which
extend some 600 miles. The promontory was first sighted by the
Portuguese in 1469, and named after Lopez Gonzalves.

We are now forty miles south of the Equator, and the atmo-
sphere is sizzling even at early morning. All Nature sleeps under
its heavy mantle of almost insupportable heat. " Lome," our pet
passenger, lies sprawled anel panting, her big brown eyes seeming
to speak and declare how much she is suffering. They talk of a
tornado being almost due, and the air, charged with electricity,
forebodes some catastrophe as far as one can judge.

Beside us lie two cargo-boats, from which the LInion Jack
droops dejectedly — not a breath of air lifts its folds. As the eyes
scan the shores of Cape Lopez, multitudes of trees break the sky
line — beautiful green palms heavy with cocoanuts fringing the
beach and giving shade to many buildings. They are low-lying,
squat affairs, with deep roofs to shield them from the sun ; corru-
gated iron and palm thatch reign Queens of Architecture. A
dilapidated old stern-wheeler which plies for transport up the
Ogowe River, and several small craft, lie motionless on the placid,
oily breast of the Bay.

This is my first vision of the French Congo. The Steiermark
274

" Steiermark ';

shrieks in her steam throat. We lie some distance out, no1 daring
to anchor near shore, for the clouds assume a threatening aspect,
and what with shoals and shifting sand danger surrounds us. We
have come here lor mahogany logs. Toot ! toot ! again screams
the siren. ' Hurry up those logs," it means, literally translated.

Along the lower part of the shore we see the timber lying in
huge quantities — waterlogged.

The decks are cleared for action that is, the gigantic hatch is
uncovered, disclosing the side ribs of the ship and its gargantuan
month hungry for cargo. One must bear in mind that the Steier-
mark has 8000 tons' capacity, but up to now we are fairly light,
and the desire of every
captain is to take his
ship home as full as
possible.

I look over the rail
into the depths, which
are paved with blocks
of granite fromKaribib,
each stone representing &
a ton or more of weight .
From the bend where
the mahogany rears
itself a small launch
putfs and ploughs

through the water, trailing a raft of logs after her. ' There
are only fifty," says Captain Schiitt, spyglass in hand.
" There should be at least seventy-hve," he adds discon-
tentedly. These logs — or sticks, as the local people call them—
are some five metres in length, and sixty, eighty, and a hundred
inches in diameter ; they are mostly straight, and each one weighs
from one ton to four. They are hooked together by a wire cable,
and a tug or launch hauls them alongside, the rafts, spreading out,
resembling the tail of a comet.

Black boys walk over these floating, bobbing logs as if they were
on a steady bridge. The mighty iron winch unwinds its thread
of cable, at the end of which is fixed a big hook, and one of the
boys secures the hook and cable round one of the massive logs.
Tug, tug ! goes the winch, the log is lifted, swung into the air, and
poises for a moment leaning on the well- deck ; another boy has a

MAIIOCAW IOCS, CAHoo.N K1VKK.

275

A Woman's Winter in Africa

big pail of red paint, and with a brush slings a red splash on the
end of each piece of timber. This is to identify it, although pre-
viously it has been marked by a number and the initials of its
owner.

Another groan of the winches, and the huge sticks sink into the
hold. As one looks down, many brown hands stretch out steadying
the log to its final lodgment. Sometimes a log gets loose and
drifts, then a boy jumps on board the piece, sits astride righting
his impromptu ship, and occasionally goes over into the water ;
but he struggles, kicking his feet, and finally climbs back on his
elusive raft, perfectly indifferent to his ducking. Bang, bang !
sound the logs, and the roar of the crew boys reverberates through
the hollow expanse of the hold.

The costumes of these natives consist of any old thing they can
get — perhaps a shirt with more holes than material, but quite
appropriate for the climate. It forms wonderful unconventional
designs in lacework, disclosing glistening shoulders of ebony.
Trousers or drawers of flowered cotton, cast-off bits of white men's
garments, caps, broken helmets, thrown-away sou'-westers, all
come as " grist to the mill " as far as native clothing is concerned
There is no set fashion — individual taste is considered comme il
faut ! How happy they are, laughing, singing, making a row.

Life is one long holiday for these hard workers, and the}'
do not labour to excess — far from it. Naturally when there is
cargo to be handled they must work, but some days at sea they
have little to do, and are well fed and paid. These natives come
on board at Monrovia and make the voyage down the coast and
back, which usually occupies some seventy days. They return
home with many pounds, better in health, and vastly richer in
experience. The scale of wages is as follows : Headmen 2s. 6d.
a day — these headmen also receive 4s. as commission from each
boy — winchmen, gangway men, and boatmen have is. 6d. per day,
and the ordinary boys get is.

The private life of these people is interesting, but it is difficult
to get them to talk. We questioned one of the headmen about
his family. He told the captain that he had three wives — all
the world knows these natives are polygamists. We asked how
many children he had, and he said " two " ; then he went on to
inform us that for one of his wives, a young girl of twelve, he
had paid the head of her family £12 in gold, for the second he had

276

" Steiermark '

given presents of cloth and (7 in money, but the third he would
not speak much of. lie confided thai she had run away, and lie
was trying to gel her purchase-money back from her relatives.

A peculiar custom among these Wesl (oast natives is that the
intending bridegroom makes a great palaver with, the mother and
uncle of the bride, not with the father, and to them he pays the money
for his wife. The male head of the family is the elder brother or
uncle, for, they say, they are sure of the mother's parentage, but
there may be some speculation regarding the father. Contrary
to some countries — China, for instance — girl babies are preferred
to boys, because they fetch a good price in the marriage-market.
After preliminary arrangements have been completed a great
wedding- feast follows. The relatives forgather, and much drink-
ing of gin and beer is indulged in, " Dash " being generously dis-
tributed to the bride and her family. Fifteen pounds is asked for
a dusky beauty whose attractions are more than the ordinary,
but widows and divorcees maybe obtained at much lower rates.

In some parts this " Dash " —a friend of " Backsheesh " —is paid
in cattle or cloth ; but if the wife runs away or prefers another,
the family of the woman must give back the purchase price. This
usually is objected to, and serious palavers occur before parting
with the wedding remuneration. We endeavoured to obtain in-
formation from the headman about the ju-jus, but superstition
sealed his lips. He shook his head, saying, " 1 don't know."
They greatly fear the evil eye of the fetish which dominates their
lives.

One boy on the ship was always ill, he could not work, and
gradually got worse — the ju-ju had been bound upon his luckless
life. A comrade boy told the officer, " You do nothing, Ba'as, he
has sasswood ; he go die." The officer, although he tried various
means, could never find out who had administered the deadly
poison, which is a frequent means to the end along this coast.

The expected tornado fortunately passed over, but a thick
rain-storm blotted the shore from sight. Sheets of white water
surrounded us, and the hot, steamy atmosphere made life too
oppressive for words.

" Imp " has become most disagreeable.

277

CHAPTER XL

The Captain and I Pay Visits

WE start at four, the heat being a trifle abated.
There is no twilight in the tropics, and night falls
suddenly, as if one had pulled a black curtain across the
world.

4 Lome," my fellow-passenger, whines at the gangway, longing
for a run on shore, but the Captain commands her to remain on
board, as embarking a big dog on a small rolling surf-boat is not
facile, and, furthermore, the meeting of unfriendly canines on shore

may lead to battle.
Poor Lome's eyes sadly
follow us as the crew
boys shove off. One
entire side of the Stcicr-
mark has a floating
chain of huge ma-
hogany logs. It is a
unique sight to watch
this procession of forest
giants, captures of
the interior, disabled,
ready to lay down
their arms, so to speak,
and degenerate into furniture to be used in Germany, supplying
the wants of man.

The view upon nearing the beach is not so attractive as from
the steamer. True, the cocoanut palms with their brilliant,
glistening leaves, which rustle in the soft, tropical breeze, and are
torn up and cast aside like weeds by the tornadoes which are
frequent visitors, remain a beautiful picture. Logs are the staple
product. They wreathe the shore. Our boat lands beside them,
and they form a sort of wharf, which we clamber over to reach
the land. There is a path of white sand, but no road. Some chips

27*

i;.Uii m iN KIVKK.

The Captain and I Pay Visits

from mahogany trees have been strewn in places to make walking
a, little less unpleasant.

The length of the village rambles for perhaps two miles. A few
of the houses ami "factories' -that is what they arc termed;
in fact, any sort of business place is a factory out here — are of
corrugated iron, hut most of them are built on piles, a palm-
thatched verandah forming the largest part of the house. Dry
matchwood and a palm canopy roof complete the tout ensemble.
After a tornado many are roofless, and everything in the home
wet and ruined.

I cannot imagine any soul living in the French Congo from
choice, or for a protracted period. The heat, the trillions of
mosquitoes and other insects, to say nothing of fever, make
Cape Lopez, or " Mandy," as some call it, a spot to be avoided.
Sixty white men and two ladies try to make homes here, with
occasional visits to France. There is a whaling station which
last year exported one million francs' worth of whalebone and oil ;
this and timber form the only industries, in conjunction with traders
wjio supply the natives, and have many branches up the Ogowe
River. Cape Lopez boasts neither church, school, nor hotel. There
is an open shed which answers the purpose of a gaol, and here
native prisoners are shackled together with chains and iron rings
on their ankles. Most of the crimes are theft, for light fingers are
prolific.

The place is ruled by an Administrator and a Governor, who
live at Libreville. There is a tiny hospital, boasting one doctor,
but a friend whom 1 asked about the medical arrangements said,
' Oh, the hospital is all right, but they never have any medicines.
If one gets ill they send around to the different houses to ask for
this or to borrow that." Surely such conditions could easily be
remedied.

Everyone religiously takes his dose of quinine daily. The
inhabitants look sorely tried with the heat, poor food, and the
continual fight against fever. Their faces are pale and anaemic.
They have no recreations, no roads, nothing — only work, and
saving up for a fortune ; and the dominant thought of each one
is to get away as quickly as possible. It would seem a work of
charity if the French Government could at least have a road
built along the shore, where the colonists might enjoy the fresh
air in the evening after the fatiguing day.

279

A Woman's Winter in Africa

There is much big game — elephant, hippopotami, and buffalo ;
and some time ago the country was quite a Mecca for hunters.
Parrots and monkeys are plentiful, and nearly all the residents
have several. The natives are exceptionally black. Tall, well-
formed, and wearing large handkerchiefs or shawls draped about
them, they appear not to suffer from the climate, and are fat and
healthy-looking.

With the exception of what the ships bring there is very little
food for the inhabitants, but lemons, oranges, and alligator pears
are sent down from the interior. Chickens and ducks may be
had, but they are of inferior quality. A chicken costs one shilling,
so you can imagine how much flesh it possesses. All beef and
mutton must be imported if they obtain any, and one of the
most unpleasant things about Cape Lopez is the lack of ice.

The captain, who has been on this coast for twenty-six years,
and knows everyone, took me to call upon Monsieur and Madame
Boit. Their home was the best in the place, but that is not saying
much for what we would call an ideal home. Our visit was passed
on the palm-enclosed verandah, which supported wicker chairs
and tables as its only but appropriate furniture. Naturally, in a
country so close to the Equator, the best fashion is to have the
place empty and simple, both for hygienic reasons and also to
give less work to servants, who are drawn from the native quarter
and are anything but desirable.

Madame Boit had made her home quite comfortable. Shrugging
her shoulders with a deprecatory air she said, " What can one do
here ? With white ants, mould, and heat, everything is ruined.
We try to stand it all as well as possible ; and afterwards, when
we return to France, we will make a real home." I asked her
about the cost of living, and she exclaimed, " Oh, everything is
very dear. There are no shops, and if we require a reel of cotton
or any other trifle we cannot buy it, all must come from Europe.
We get our wines — and champagne — free of duty, and we take a
glass to eke out our food when it has become especially bad."

The servant boy brought in some tea, and Madame informed me,
: You see that boy and how awkward he is ? He is my cook,
and do you believe me, I have to pay him over £5 a month ; and
even so I must oversee all the ingredients for cooking, as I cannot
trust him or leave the food for a moment — it would be burnt.
That's the way we live here," she ended, with a sigh.

280

■UK

. *

A Woman's Winter in Africa

After finishing our call on Monsieur and Madame Boit we
next visited the home of the agent of the Line. His wife was very
slight and pale, and the effects of the climate were already show-
ing on her countenance, although she had been here only a
few months. She confessed with weary resignation, ' We
must remain here twenty-one months longer." She had a
couple of monkeys which were amusing, and she showed me the
way she did her housekeeping. A meat safe covered with wire-
netting stood in a cool angle of the verandah, its four legs resting
in pans of water with a small quantity of oil floating on the top.

Water for washing and drinking purposes is poured into porous
jars after it has been boiled. Madame stated in a tired voice,
" We cannot eat much, the heat is so trying. At midday we
have our principal meal, and for supper we take something very
light — rice, fruit, and a glass of wine are quite enough."

" You have plenty of time for reading, Madame," I suggest,
pointing to a quantity of " L' Illustration " lying on the table.

" Not so much as you would think," she answers. " You see we
are obliged to go to bed by 8 p.m., as the mosquitoes are so trouble-
some. We sleep with all windows open, thick muslin curtains
surrounding the bed ; but on account of the heat sleep evades
us, and many times we are exhausted before morning."

I felt sincerely grieved for her, imprisoned as she was in such
a distressing environment. Captain Schutt with his habitual
kindness has asked these two ladies, who form the nucleus of
society at Cape Lopez, one a blonde and the other a brunette, to
dine on board the Steiermark to-morrow night. Lhey accept the
invitation gratefully, also a present of a block of ice, and they in
turn give us limes and alligator pears.

After leaving this house we pass again down the sand path to
continue our social rounds. The sun is setting, and produces
beautiful effects. A long hedge of perfect hibiscus grows to a
height of about 14 feet. The blossoms are of flaming pink, scarlet,
and a lovely yellow, the colour of gold. I thought how much we
should love to see a hedge growing in the open like this in England,
but not for millions could we produce the same effect. The flower
of the hibiscus unfortunately dies a sudden death soon after
it is culled, reminding one of Burns's description of poppies —
" You seize the flower, the bloom is shed." Instinctively I feel
that mosquitoes are about in the dank sea grass growing beside

282

The Captain and I Pay Visits

tli' path, for a decided itching sensation makes me most uncom-
fortable.

Our next visit is to a Swiss gentleman who has courage-
ously borne this climate four years. His combined business is

in mahogany and general store- keeping. These people are very
pleased to see us, and all at their disposal is voluntarily brought
forth for hospitality's sake. They beg pardon for their crude
houses and their limited wardrobe, which in this man's case con-
sisted of trousers of khaki, shirt sleeves turned up, and a pith
helmet. They converse easily, telling you news of their part of
th" world and being most anxious to hear what has happened in
capitals far away. Once a month would be the average for the
French liner calling here.

Although this man appeared to be in perfect health he dreaded
the fever, and administered quinine to himself every day without
fail. I was glad to hear that in two months he would be amongst
his native mountains, re-establishing his vitality with a fresh
lease of life in the invigorating air of Switzerland. The Captain
wanted to know how long he intended remaining abroad.

"Just," he jocundly responded, "as long as the money lasts."
Such is life, and for a man who is obliged to find fortune in these
unhealthy climates, living by himself, without the kindly refining
influence of women — no wife, no home, no society — could one
censure him for taking deep draughts of what has a couleur-
de-rose appearance — forgetful of the dregs concealed ?

Oh, you suffragettes ! I wonder if your time would not be
better employed, if your hearts would not beat happier and truer,
were you fulfilling your woman's duty and perfecting the lonely
lives of these men ! Our grandmothers did not disdain going
to the Colonies. Cheerfully they established a home, happily
content to be enthroned in the hearts of their husband and children.
To these illustrious women is due, in no small measure, the great-
ness of our Empire.

It is the same cry all the colonies over — French, German,
Portuguese, and English — " We need women — without them we
are not content. We want wives and children. Whom have we to
work for ? No one cares for us ; consequently we work, and for
recreation, which we all must have, we spend our hard-gained
money in bars." From all Africa have I heard this lament ; and
when one thinks of the many women in England, where their

28.-,

A Woman's Winter in Africa

number is greater than that of the male sex, one cannot but wish
that they by some means might be reminded of the conditions.

A girl coming to Rhodesia, for example — and it is the same
in German South- West and in East Africa partout — not only
has at once a proposal, but in most cases a choice of several
claimants for her hand. Everyone must agree that marriage is
a more natural state than tramping through the streets with a
batch of unsexed women, smashing windows, burning houses,
and putting obnoxious mixtures into letter-boxes ! Ths serious-
ness of the present situation requires delicate handling, and one
must try to become optimistic about the future.

We stayed three days at Cape Lopez, varying the monotony of
ship life by going ashore. The ladies came to dine, and passed a
pleasant evening. The Arnold Amsinck, another cargo-boat of
the same line, arrives. The two captains exchange visits, and we
are asked to dine on board. We have taken over 800 logs in the
hold, thereby sinking several inches in the cargo line.

I feel I must warn intending travellers against the deadly
mosquitoes. Never in any part of the world have I encountered
such virulent, poisonous insects. They mercilessly attack feet and
ankles, leaving plague spots that inflame to sores as large as half-
crown pieces; and when you are, as 1 am, inoculated with as
many as ten bites on each foot the agony of the irritation may be
imagined ! Lime juice rubbed well into the inflamed parts is a
good cure.

No one should venture ashore without high boots specially
designed for the tropics. Unfortunately, I am without them, but
hope to be able to buy some at Libreville, my next port in Gaboon.
' Imp " says it's much better not to have any flesh and be a sprite
like itself — and I agree ! What with drenching showers and
mosquito bites, life is not all honey in the tropics.

" Imp " adds : ' Don't come to Cape Lopez. Swakopmund is
a Paradise in comparison."

284

—

CHAPTER XLI

Libreville, French Congo

ON April 21st, 19 13, in blazing sunshine, we crossed the
Equator, steaming from Cape Lopez to Libreville. We
keep about six miles out on account of shoals, and the shore
basking in the heat is well wooded with tropical foliage. Upon
nearing Gombe Point a lighthouse rises from the wood. We
perceive an English ship, her cargo line visibly exposed even at
this distance. It is only natural that each ship plying for trade
should take a deep interest in its rivals. This boat is leaving,
and as she sails out, dips the Union Jack in salute. We pass the
Fetish Wood, crowned by spindly trees, and enter the river. The
mouth of the Gaboon — (which the natives call N'Pongo) — re-
quires some skill in navigation, on account of its various sandbars.
One is obliged to take a ship straight past, and then circumvent
by a sharp turn ; even then careful attention must be given.

We eventually drop our anchor opposite Libreville, the capital
of the Gaboon territory. Beautiful verdure half conceals a row
of white houses and palm-thatched huts. It is so very hot here
that shade is an imperative necessity. A tiny mole pushes a
few feet into the sea, and there are two childlike lighthouses,
one with no lamp, its companion putting forth but a feeble flame
to light the port. Our ship stayed here for the night, but the
Steiermark, not being content with all the mahogany logs she had
consumed at Cape Lopez — some 850 — the Captain is obliged to
take her farther up the river, where she may again try to satisfy
her insatiable appetite for cargo. Lat. o° 23' N., long. 90 26' E.

We are now twelve miles north of the Equator, and the heat is
much worse than in the same latitude on the East Coast. There
appears to be no life in the oppressive atmosphere. Everyone
is gasping, and one wears the thinnest white garments ; but these
are wet in a few moments, and there is the feeling of sitting in a
tepid bath with one's clothes on. Sunsets are painted across the
sky in nouveau art style — great splashes of splendid colour,

286

Libreville

purple and scarlet intercepted by cadmium yellows and rose
madder, arc by Nature extensively used.

Lome," our dog, has given up taking an interest in any of
the workings of the ship ; she resignedly lies down, and her big
brown eyes look as though she were trying to express, "' Oh,
dear ! I wish 1 could take my coat oil." It is the season for
rain and tornadoes. When one arrives instantly a thick, white
mist covers the scene, and a solid wall of water descends. Every-
thing is drenched, after which the steaming heat is more insuffer-
able than ever. Evenings on the Equator are glorious, so much
so that the contrast between night and day makes the darkness
seem akin to heaven.

There is a full moon, whose refulgence is helped by heat-
lightning illuminating the entire sky. What electric battles are
being fought above me ! With the roar of the thunder even
' Imp " is awed. But through all the inclemency or inconvenience
of the weather the winches are rarely silent ; launches puff across
to the shore, and long rafts of perhaps a hundred huge mahogany
" sticks " are captured. These long rafts are trailed across to the
sides of the Steiernuivk, then she takes another gorge. The crew-
boys love noise, and " Heave up ! ' ' Let go ! is a never-
ceasing chorus.

We are thankful to have plenty of ice on board, and the food
is good, but unfortunately no one has an appetite. Libreville
represents one of the oldest settlements on the West Coast. For
many years Gaboon was the centre of the slave trade. This
human cargo was brought down from the interior by various
rivers and exported to America. They say now that between
alcoholic excess and disease, most of the original tribes are fast
dying out.

The M'Fans, or Pahuins, a well-known cannibal tribe who
inhabit the borders of the Ogowe River, have had for a long
time the reputation of being the most dangerous natives. A small
quantity of ivory, ebony, rubber, and dyewoods is collected in
the giant forests of the interior by them and disposed of through
middlemen and agents. Some of the carved ivory is quite unique,
but in these days is very difficult to find.

The principal exports of the country are mahogany, w ith a very
little coffee, vanilla, and rubber, which is of good quality but scarce.
The climate is hot, moist, and unhealthy ; fever abounds, and that

287

A Woman's Winter in Africa

much-dreaded disease the sleeping-sickness is prevalent. Several
natives succumbed to this dire plague,xas yet incurable, last
year, also two Europeans. It is pitiful the utter lassitude of the
first few months, the gradual strengthening of the microbes,
and eventually their complete mastery over the system. The
dry season, continuing from June to September, is far pleasanter
than the steamy, drenching weather which I experienced along
this coast.

The French Government have very strict laws regarding ships
approaching their colony. No man-of-war, unless French, can
approach within three miles without being especially invited,
and moorings must not be shifted without permission. There
are some open sheds stacked with coal blocks on the -plage, but
these are used to accommodate French vessels only.

Libreville is connected by cable with Europe, and with Brazza-
ville, the capital of French Equatorial Africa ; they have a tele-
phone system, but there is no railway, and in consequence the
opening up of the country is greatly retarded. Traders follow
the course of the rivers, but penetration into the interior is left
principally to natives.

Our ship being anchored some four miles up the river, it was
difficult to visit Libreville. There is no road along the shore,
and one has to ford a river in order to visit the town or village —
the latter name being more appropriate. A gentleman 1 know,
in swimming across the river, lost his hat, and in his endeavour to
rescue that, a bag of money which he had secured around his neck
also got adrift ; but he eventually succeeded in regaining all his
property.

These rivers are dangerous. It would seem you could walk
through them with water up to the waist, but suddenly, without
warning, you plunge into deep water, which, flowing with a rush,
is apt to carry you along or dash you against the rocks.

Whenever I visited Libreville I was rowed down by ten crew
boys. The heat was exhausting, rain threatened to descend, and
the boys struggled with the current for two hours before they
drew into the small pier. I gladly climbeel out, and the odour
d'Afrique became very pungent as the reeking perspiration of the
crew boys dripped from them. It is not pleasant, and with the
moist atmosphere made me feel a little ill. Even after giving the
boys some change to spend in the market, the odour d'Afrique

288

►J

S
Q

A Woman's Winter in Africa

seemed to permeate the town. Every native I passed seemed
steeped in it !

One long street, the Route de Glace, follows the shore-line.
This shore-line is very beautiful, planted with splendid coeoanut
palms, mango and cotton trees, their trunks being trimmed with
lovely parasites in the form of ferns and flowering lianes. The
whole place teems with vegetation. Earth is hot and moist, the
air steams, and the miasmatic exhalations rising from the ground
are extremely unhealthy. Mangrove swamps rich in fever, and
myriads of mosquitoes, lie on each side.

I chose the way to Government House, a wide, ill-kept drive,
leading to a quadrangle in which stands the official residence, a
large two-storeyed building in stucco with green shutters. It
would be imposing in its position, facing the sea, but it badly
needs coats of paint ; and a really nice green lawn would have
been much improved if someone had given a native an order to
cut the grass. Behind Government House are situated the barracks
and magazines. Two magnificently tall palms stand like sentinels
guarding the square, and brilliant-leaved mango trees give much-
needed shade.

The whole of the town, whose houses were built by soldiers and
sailors, was founded in 1843. It wears an ancient dilapidated
look. Nothing is evidently ever repaired. The French Govern-
ment started out with good intentions to build a rather credit-
able place, but of late disappointment or an evil ju-ju seems to
have taken up its abode, for there is no ambition nor vitality left in
this densely wooded lowland, based on its yellow line of sand.

But can one wonder at the weariness of the people who year
after year suffer this appalling heat ? On the north side of the
quadrangle is the Catholic Church, a large crude structure with
nothing distinctive or interesting about it. I entered and found
eight or ten nuns kneeling in prayer. Close by is the Catholic
Mission and Convent. The hospital, law courts, telegraph
station, La Mairie, and prison are also situated here, and all
have the same air of decay. They speak of past glory that has
long since faded away.

All these buildings are conspicuous from the offing, but dis-
appointing at closer range. I next entered the Botanical Garden,
where the trees and shrubs were splendid. An expensive iron
fence surrounded it, with impressive gates; but the paths were

290

Libreville

overgrown, and no care had been expended for years. They had

taken the trouble to hew down some large trees; but never the
consideration to remove the decaying trunks and roots.

Formerly Gaboon was rich territory, with quantities of good

rubber; but for years thsy have drained the resources of the
country without replenishing, so that now exports are small,
the mahogany and ebony ranking as principal. If twenty years
ago, when they were tapping the virgin rubber trees, they had
thought to plant others, there would have been different results,
for the soil is fertile, possessing plenty of moisture. One wishes
one could transport some of these superfluous clouds to the
parched lands of Rhodesia and German South- West Africa !

Below on the beach I passed tire treasured coal sheds, which
were open and protected only by a roof ; after winch 1 proceeded
to the market, this being under a tin canopy and kept by natives.
It was a little late, and I regretted the amount of time taken
by my black boatmen. The market is the core of life in any town
you may happen to touch. There you see the produce of the
country. A very fat " mammie " waddles past. She has a large
bunch of thick green plantains on her head ; two of these she
pulls aside, grins, and cheerfully says, " Bon jour, Madame." 1
return the salute, while she stares at me curiously.

The police are black and wear khaki uniforms. Frenchmen
look very pale and sallow from the trying climate. They dress
in white cotton, with helmets ; and the trousers are in Eastern
fashion, very baggy, and confined tightly round the ankles. Many
prisoners are sent here. A whole file of them pass me. They are
chained together, and in this heat I shudder to think of their
suffering ! Small children without a rag on them dance by.
Joy is theirs. Some are chewing bananas. This fruit is indeed
excellent.

A single file of natives stride past me. There are, maybe, a
dozen, and on the head of each is a thick grass mat, and, poised
above, a heavy stone. These stones are for building purposes,
but certainly this method is slower and more primitive than in
the days of the early Egyptians. Huge, pale golden butterflies
float lazily from flower to flower, but I, who received such greedy
hospitality from the insects of Cape Lopez, dread the approach
of anything that flies ! One black boy labours with an iron stew-
pot, in which boiling soup sends forth mists of odoriferous garlic.

291

A Woman's Winter in Africa

He plants the pot at one corner of the market, and immediately
it is surrounded by eight hungry people, who ply the spoon deep
into the pot, smiling content written upon their beaming counte-
nances. The principal eatables I see in the market are plantains and
long round sticks of manioc resembling a sausage. In some parts
this composition is called fou-fou. It is greatly in demand by the
natives, being made by their women.

The vegetable, something between a potato and a yam, is
dried, pulverized, soaked, beaten up with bananas, and pressed
into a sort of cheese, that keeps well. The natives slice it inch
by inch with great relish, and it is most convenient, rolled up
as it is in its tight casing of palm leaves, to carry on long expe-
ditions. Food supplies are difficult to obtain ; but fresh meat of
great toughness may be had twice a week. There are fish and
shrimps, but the native is too indolent to search for these, pre-
ferring the easily-got plantain.

Vegetables always seem very scarce. Recently, Chinese
prisoners from Saigon and Cochin China have been sent here, to
try to raise this greatly desired produce, but up to now without
much success. There are many monkeys about, some tiny and
droll, being purchased for just a few francs.

Fortunately, I can speak French, and am directed to the Hotel
.Michel, which also boasts of a cafe. It has the monopoly — no
other exists ! The host and hostess were very polite, and apologized
that dejeuner was over, but protested that they would do their
best to give me a meal. On one side of the cafe were some officers
drinking beer, and the tables looked as if they yearned to be
scrubbed. I was glad when the black-and-white barmaid covered
mine over with a cheap red-and-white cloth.

Forks were of pewter, and conscientiously I cleaned mine — I
hope it was grateful, for it sadly needed attention. But there
is always some sweet with the bitter of experience, and at this
hotel there was ice. It was a blessing, and the proprietress warn-
ingly told me— " C'est tres chere." It costs fifty centimes a
kilo, and in this Turkish-bath climate it evaporates with easy
swiftness.

I made my luncheon off an omelette and a small tin of patedefoie
gras — " C'est ne pas mal, c'est ne pas bonne." Afterwards they
served some really excellent coffee, grown at Gaboon. Sitting by
the window I watched several boats landing from Pongara Point,

292

Libreville

which were loaded to tit" edge with plantains. When they shoved
on to the sand, overboard jumped the natives into the warm sea,
pushing the boat ashore. Thsse plantains will figure in to morrow
morning's market.

A lady whirled by, being carried in a sort of hammock, with
one boy in front and one behind. I hear that there arc between
thirty and forty ladies, European, and about one hundred and
thirty men. Gaboon boasts some eight thousand natives.

The black-and-white barmaid who helped serve my table was
most amusing. She wore a gold chain, queer gold earrings, and
some silver rings and bracelets. The gold earrings and chain,
she assured me, were beaten out of real gold at Accra, which was
quite true — -I had seen the work before.

Loquaciously she went on : ' My father was a German " ; to
which remark, being astonished, I reiterated, " Your father was
a German ? But how was that? ' I noticed the complexion of
this unfortunate creature was neither European nor native ; being
of coffee colour, and she had a thin, bony figure. Her hair, strange
to say, had taken after her father's, as it was brown, silky, and
straight. To me it seems cruel and disgusting — this mixing of
black and white ; injustice to the offspring and the whole affair
abominable.

' Yes," continued the woman, " my father was Mr. H- — ;
he on the coast and Kamerun twenty-five years. Then afterward
he marry white woman ; they make big white wedding, and
I ran away with a policeman." Here was a novel in a nutshell !

" He been dead now long time," she sighed.

Afterwards, on my return to the ship, I repeated these facts,
and the captain answered: " It's quite true — I knew the man.
He was a stout, red-headed German." I felt sorry for this woman,
who resignedly informed me that she was a very good woman
now.

Paying my bill, about twelve francs, and departing, moral
philosophy filled my mind. I continued my way along the Route
de Glace to Glace Village, a mile and a half beyond. This is tie?
principal place where trade is conducted, and here are situated
the factories of John Holt and Co. and the great house of Woer-
mann. In ancient times this was an important slave depot.
Between Libreville and Owendo Point the houses of the Euro-
pean merchants are built, most of them being on piles, with deep

293

A Woman's Winter in Africa

verandahs, screened by bamboo and palm thatch. Hibiscus and
brilliant tropical flowers form hedges of decoration. If women
live in these houses they rarely go out ; certainly they are not
seen in the one long street.

I called at hospitable Woermann House and was presented
with some flowers. All along this coast Woermann is the great
power. No matter what you want, you go to Woermann, and
you get it ! It was nearly sundown when I met my boys, and
the row back to the ship was delightful. A breeze sprang up,
the clouds parted, disclosing a delicately tinted sunset, a sym-
phony in pale blues and pinks which that celebrated French
beauty, Madame La Pompadour, who favoured these colours,
would have adored.

I preferred to live on board the comfortable clean ship instead
of resting three days in the hotel at Libreville, where fever
and insects walk hand-in-hand. The Steiermark was still digest-
ing logs ; and " Lome," waiting by the gangway, greeted me
with a most reproachful look, which said: "You've been
ashore all day and didn't take me. Don't you think I'd have
loved a run ? ' I try to console " Lome " with a pat, but
indignantly she runs up the steps to the Captain's deck, proudly
defiant.

After three days' steady feast of logs, incessant rain, and a
temperature of 32 degrees Centigrade, good Captain Schutt
proceeds down the Gaboon River, stopping to pay a last visit
at Woermann House for clearing the ship's papers. While he was
absent, " Lome " and I watched a cask of rubber and a few bags
of palm kernels, which served the Steiermark, I suppose, as a
species of sauce ; at any rate, they were put on top of the logs.
When Captain Sch'itt returned he brought two passengers with
him, both of whom I knew ; they had been transferred from the
Arnold Amsinck. It was quite amusing.

I was sitting writing in the small steaming saloon, " Lome '
panting beside me, when — three gentlemen enter in single file,
each bearing large bouquets of palm leaves and hibiscus. With
solemn ceremony they bowed low and laid the flowers by my
side. I felt that all of a sudden I had become a prima donna or
queen of something. ' Lome " barked, but the manner of pre-
sentation had such a comic effect that we all burst out laughing.
Now we had no vases on the Steiermark, and were also short of
294

—

X
—
o
ll
u

'-
y

A Woman's Winter in Africa

drinking glasses ; but we did as well as we could with the flowers,
and gave them a drink of tepid water in a tumbler.

' I am glad to get out of this Gaboon River," remarked the
Captain, to which 1 felt like adding, " Amen."

But even at sea there is no freshness in the air. We sail over
a grey expanse meeting grey clouds on the horizon. We look at
each other sitting on deck mopping our faces continually with
eau-de-Cologne, but nothing seems to have any effect. It is a
marvel to me how one can perspire perpetually, and where all
the moisture comes from !

The nights too are breathless. I cannot sleep in my cabin, so I
have a corner of the deck portioned off for me, where I try to
rest in the captain's long deck chair, made sailor fashion of
canvas, having my own chair to put my feet on. All the officers
are as kind as possible, and the chief engineer has deprived him-
self of his electric fan to place in my cabin.

We cross the hot sea and take up our moorings in the open
roadstead off Lagos, ten miles from the town. I have to tranship
here on to the Eleonore Woermann. She has not yet made her
appearance, but is always expected. It is a Sunday, too, and I
particularly wanted to go ashore at Lagos to get some money on
my letter of credit. But in the first place I have no time, and
secondly, being the Sabbath, all banks are closed, so I must go
on to the Cameroons.

For travellers who go to these rather unfrequented places I
would advise Thomas Cook and Sons' circular notes, because
anyone — at hotel, steamer, indeed anywhere — will ca.sh them. I
had these, but used them at Windhuk and Swakopmund. Our
English banks do not appear to have agents in German or French
colonies.

My only impression of Lagos is fog, a strip of low-lying land, and
surf sobbing along the shore. On my return from the Cameroons
I shall have more time there. Th? Professor Woermann is close
by at her anchorage, bound for home — sailing at six. I beg
Captain Sch/itt to take us over and pay a visit, as the hospitality
of the German captains and the Line is a very fine thing.
There is a freemasonry among them, and splendid comradeship.
Wherever the port you are always heartily welcomed by the
captain of a ship.

The other two gentlemen accompany us, a lighter and tug are

296

I jl)iv\ ille

ordered^ so we sit in the double wooden seat, and are slung
overboard. A hoi rid sea is rolling, and the crew boys not holding
the ropes properly we bang against the side of our ship, then
swing out twice in an appalling maimer! It might break an
arm or finger. Captain Schitt's arm was actually hurt. They
tell you not to hold on, but if you don't you may fall out into the
sea, which would be worse

It is most difficult when rough to lower the mammy-chair

SPRINGBi »K JUMPING.

into its exact position. We crashed into the scat, which almost
chucked us overboard, and eventually came down with a bang.
I am generally afraid of nothing, but I must confess I dread being
swung over in this manner, and think I would rather go down
th? ship's ladder sailor fashion if it were not for my skirts getting
in the way — one could, at least, cling on to the ropes.

Arrived on board the Professor, we found cheerful kindness,
and went to Captain Ihrcke's sitting-room. He showed us all
over this fine ship of 6000 tons. The Professor and the Kenny

297

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Woermann are the newest and largest of passenger steamers on
the West Coast. It would be impossible to imagine any quarters
more comfortable. Everything is spotlessly clean, and gleaming
with fresh paint, polish, and attention. There are large cabins,
the ports downstairs full of plants, the smoking-room high-
ceilinged, and lined with marble, some of which is transparent,
giving a beautiful effect.

There is a gymnastic room for exercise, where you touch an
electric button, mount either horses or camels, and ride to your
heart's content. The dining-room is also in marble, with many
small tables — far preferable to sitting for a long voyage at the
old-fashioned ones which extend the length of the salon. Tittle
tables look so much more homelike.

The most splendid part, however, is the huge palm court, occupy-
ing the entire front of the ship ; this room is of white marble with
yellow panels. Can you see the picture ? Large glass windows
with decorative topwork, all open, and electric fans whirling like
silver bees. There is on one side a beautiful painting of spring,
with apple-blossoms and a flower-covered cottage reflected in
water. On the other side autumn trees in rich russets and browns
are depicted. Dotted about this salon white lilacs and crotons
are actually growing from high-standing, wooden pedestals, the
delicate, pale green leaves reminding one of spring at home — ■
the spring that I shall not see this year.

A feeling of intense homesickness comes over me — the worst I
have had. How lovely it would be to remain on this beautiful
ship and sail to Southampton Water ! — -so simple to transfer.
" Imp " and I, however, experience a silent mental tornado. It
is not to be thought of. I haven't finished the task I set myself
to do, and I must accomplish the book on my visits to various
West Coast ports. " Imp " and I retire to the next room and
begin to write letters to those at home we long to see.

Afterwards we had a charming luncheon party with three
captains at our table, for Captain Martens of the Max Brock joined
us. I like to see captains gather together. Each has his own
experiences — his worries as to ship and cargo, and various news
of friends recently encountered. We spent a d lightful day and
went back to our cargo-boat.

On arriving, an interesting event was taking place. All the
crew boys were drawn up on the well-deck, standing in rows of

298

Libreville

five aboul a hundred of them. There was an epitome of
costume and cap. White shirts, more like jackets, with large blue
turtles roaming over the surface, were; fashionable among the
sportsmen who had donned their best, and a multitude of variegated
designs showed everywhere. .Mr. Muller counts them most
carefully ; then, taking a roll of English sovereigns in his hand, deals
out one to each boy. The reason they give them a part of the wage
here is that at Lagos these crew boys, living at Monrovia, love to
buy things for their women. Cloth and beads have a special
value if they come from Lagos ; and batches of boys are daily
allowed to go ashore shopping.

We pass another night on board the Steiermark, and about
five in the morning the Eleonore Woermann, my next home, is
sighted. Two hours later I am again hoisted on board, after
bidding bon voyage to Captain Schiitt. Mr. Muller, first officer,
and Mr. Ramsay, the chief engineer, have done all it was possible
for them to do to make my voyage in a cargo boat agreeable.
Dear " Lome ! " I take her soft head in my hands and sadly look
into those steady, brown eyes. ' I hope, Lome, Togoland and
your master will be kind to you." I fear I shall never see or hear
from my fellow-voyager again, " Lome " indeed being one of the

ships that pass in the night."

PONTOCKS OF THE HOTTENTOTS.

299

CHAPTER X L I I
The Camcroons

MY first impression of the Cameroons is of a pitchy black
night, a red and green light, and perhaps half a dozen
stars twinkling along the shore. Those stars had no rival in those
few lesser lights below. Dark forbidding forms apparently forbid
further approach. They tell me those sombre shadows dimly
outlined against a murky sky are the Cameroon Mountains. All
day we had steamed through the Bight of Biafra amid trade
winds and an equatorial current, experiencing the weather which
sailors call " Doldrums."

During the anchoring at Victoria, the seaport of Buea, the
headquarters of the Government and the residence of His
Excellency the Governor — which is a few miles up the mountain
—some fellow- voyagers and myself were much amused watching
the dancing of the natives who had gathered on the deck below,
waiting for their work to begin.

They were surrounded by heights of merchandise — various
baggage, and certainly the space of their ballroom was restricted ;
but with what vigour they danced ! Idiey must work all night
and now watch for the lighters to come alongside. A bottle of
spirit has been given to them, which is the usual offering before
lengthy exertion begins.

Their dance consists of wriggles, advancing and retreating, and
contortions. One puts his leg high on the other's thigh and swings
round and round. Weird side shuffling steps are enthusiastically
applauded, and a touch of the dance de vent is attempted. The
natives were certainly gay, and it was difficult to think of a
gyration they had neglected. They had been dancing for their
own amusement, as they do on moonlight nights in their villages,
unmindful of their audience on the upper deck. Afterwards,
when sixpences and shillings were thrown, they became too eager
for the wherewithal and forgot their terpsichorean art.

We are taking a lot of the Togoland natives to work in the
.^oo

The Cameroons

Cameroon*. The}7 arc most reliable, ami hold responsible offices
with the traders and plantation people. They and their families
have collected all their belongings. We look down upon their
entire kitchen furniture, consisting of pots, basins, calabashes,
and tin trunks ; also their bedroom belongings, which are neatly
rolled up.

The women dress in clean calico, and some garments are even
trimmed with lace ; but I noticed in one case that the lace Was
sewn on upside down. Still, what matter ? The fashion in London
is not perhaps the mode of Togoland, and, after all, why should it
matter ? Many of the women are wearing Accra earrings of solid
gold, and their babies are tied to their backs. These people are
intelligent, and have
pleasant faces. In 1884
Prince Bismarck sent
out Gustav Nachtigall
in the man-o'-war
Mocwe, that landed
and raised the German
flag over Togoland.
Having successfully
accomplished its mis-
sion there it sailed for
the Cameroons and
hoisted the red, white,
and black colours of
Germany over this rich territory which adds more than 192,000
square miles to the Fatherland.

It is bounded on the north by Lake Chad, on which they
have over sixty miles of shore. The natives, however, objected
to the European occupation, and within a year declared war.
This was settled almost immediately by a naval brigade from H.I.M.
ships Olga and Bismarck. But it was a long time before there was
much intercourse between the great hinterland lying behind the
Cameroon and Blue (Rombi) Mountains.

At Victoria, as soon as a mail steamer lands, the male inhabitants
immediately board her, and a visit to the barber is the first
essential. Then the men sit together chatting and drinking copious
quantities of beer. This beverage, which is brought from Germany,
is kept at an even temperature, and in a thirsty country where

SCKNK AT IH'AI.A. CAMKROONS.

;oi

A Woman's Winter in Africa

there is very little ice one can imagine how much it is
appreciated.

The men yarn and drink till sometimes the next day has ushered
itself in. Last night there was a great reunion between two
brothers, both officials, who had not met for eight years. I was
told that among the six friends sixty-two glasses of beer were
consumed ! One captain informed me that for the round voyage he
brought out 400 casks of beer. Not having recovered a long-lost
brother, I retired early, prepared to explore Victoria the first thing
next morning.

At five I was on deck, and the enchanting panorama spreading
out before me was indeed a surprise. No one had told me that
Victoria was even considered pretty, and few tourists have visited
this port of the Cameroons. The sun was just showing his golden
radiance behind a lesser mountain, but the great bold peak of
Mongo-ma-Loba, or Mount Gotteborg, with its proud head rising
13,300 feet, forbidding, defiant, arrayed in the most brilliant green
of tropical verdure, stood like a giant ready to protect the land.

This mountain is volcanic, and showed its wrath by an
eruption in 1910. Although it conceals malevolence with its green
cloak, it is only at the peak itself that the crater can be seen.
Close by, but not so arrogant, stands " Little Cameroon," or
' Mongo-ma-Etindeh," mountain. In her humbleness she only
attains the height of 5720 feet. She also wears feathery green
absolutely to the summit. These peaks are not alone, for they
have other great companions inland, which can be seen sixty miles
away. Their rival, Mount Hewitt, shows itself for eighty miles,
and there are many of the smaller fry whose rugged masses reach
an elevation of 4000 or 6000 feet.

With these wonderful mountains rising abruptly out of the sea,
the splendid spectacle is unsurpassed. As far as natural beauty
is concerned, it is one of the most delightful harbours I have seen,
and can be classified as a rival of Cape Town, whose praises have
been chanted by generations. The harbour is deep and protected,
the landing being easy and well arranged. Here we go decorously
down the gangway and step into a proper launch. I feel so thank-
ful not to be slung overboard ! A short distance, and we land at
a jetty comfortably provided with steps.

Herr Riitz, who lives in the country, kindly volunteered to take
me ashore, and make a tour of the town with me. Five tiny rock

302

The Cameroons

islands, on which live fantastic-shaped trees, lie to the left of the
harbour, and surf beating againsl their base gives a pretty touch

to a pleasing picture.

Victoria is in latitude 40 o' N., long. 90 14' E. The white
population numbers about sixty. Water supply is good, and
comes from an artesian well on the old Ruea road, a mile and a
quarter from Victoria. Water is carried by an aqueduct some
3000 yards to the town. Supplies of good heel and mutton can be
obtained, but vegetables are as yet scarce, though yams are
successfully grown. Horses can exist, and the rainfall is very heavy.
Buea, the capital, is situated high up upon a mountain-side, and
has a railway to it
from Victoria. The
enormous cocoa plan-
tations are very rich.
One sees whole hills
completely covered
with cocoa trees. The
valuable exports con-
sist of palm oil, cocoa,
palm kernels, kola
nuts, ivory, ebony,
tobacco, and cotton — ■
all from this beautiful
Garden of Eden.

The serpent exists in the form of fever, and nearly everyone
relies upon an amount of quinine to become immune from the
dread illness. Blackwater fever, dysentery, sleeping-sickness, and
a great deal of leprosy are found amongst the natives. i\n island
in the bay is set aside for the sufferers from leprosy. It is called
Monkey Island, and there are chimpanzees living in its forest.
The Government have erected a large house or hospital for lepers.
The Elder Dempster steamers call at Victoria once a month, and
the Woermann Tinie every fortnight.

The experimental Botanical Garden of the Government is the
great sight, and we saw it on our way. This walk in the early
morning through a tropical garden was indeed beautiful. The
earth is a little reel, as in Rhodesia and Ceylon. We pass grape
fruit trees with the big golden globes ripening in the sun, and
hundreds lying under the branches on the ground. A mental

NATIVES EMBARKING AT DUALA.

303

A Woman's Winter in Africa

flash made me remember that I had paid as much as is. 6d. each
for these grape fruit at Solomon's in Piccadilly.

Crotons in all colours looked splendidly blatant. Hedges of
bougainvillaea, with passion flowers still wet with dew, seemed
not as yet to have awakened. Pink and scarlet acacia trees were
laden with blooms. All the palm family were flourishing, and
obviously liked the place. There I saw the Queen Palm and the
Traveller basking in the sun. There were countless throngs of
mango, or-ange, banana, cocoanut, rubber, calabash, and cotton
trees, and many other the names of which I do not know. We
climbed a hill sighting a lovely view. All along the little cove the
breakers were gently sobbing, and a pretty white church with a few
houses smothered in greenery appeared like a miniature toy village.

Victoria boasts two principal streets, one by the sea and one
at the back of the town. These are well laid out, with plentiful
shade, and kept very clean. We pass a small Catholic church, the
Post Office, and the Government buildings, a few houses and
trading places. There is much movement of natives in the streets.
The English and mixed words would make the proverbial cat laugh !

A young black girl, good-looking, laughing, filling her pail with
water, sings out to my companion, " Yousavezme? " to which he re-
plies, " You live." Obviously she did so very much ! " Me no dead,"
she affirms. We walked all over the town, which took about an hour.

I have given up trying to buy anything at these places, for not
even postcards can be found. On many occasions I have invaded
shops and met with the overpowering aroma of Africa, only to
be disappointed. There are no native curios to be had.

A walk on shore and we end up at Woermann House. Their
welcome and hospitality I gratefully acknowledge. It does not
matter which town it is, even if they have never seen you before,
they are ideal hosts, genial, kindly, and make one perfectly at home.
We arrive back at the Eleonore and steam out at once — I should
say regretfully, but I return here for two days on the way back.

' Imp " wishes me to tell tourists they must not miss Victoria.

Herr Max Hinz, the agent of the Woermann hinie, has kindly
permitted me to tell you this true experience of his among the
cannibals of the Maka people. He was travelling on his rounds
along the coast alone. A crowd of these bloodthirsty creatures cap-
tured him. He was obliged to carry the chief of the tribe on his shoul-
ders through their village, accompanied by the entire population.

304

The Cameroons

They, in prospect of a feast, joined the procession, laughing,
singing, and beating tom-toms. He was afterwards given twenty-
five lashes, put into a hut, and kept there. For food they gave him
his own tin of butter, which they had found in his "chop-box," ker-
nels and palm oil — their idea being to fatten him before killing.

Alas ! poor man, he was almost mad, and tried to cut his
veins ; but they removed everything that might assist him in the
attempt. After five days of agony indescribable, a black man who

JU-JUS IN THE MAKINC, CAMEROONS.

knew him appeared. Of course, the new-comer realized it would
never do to let the cannibals eat the agent of the Woermann
Linie. He tried hard to bring about his release.

After great and prolonged palaver he succeeded, but had to buy
three new wives for the chief in order to occupy his mind and
make him forget his disappointment over the forbidden feast. I
am pleased to say that Mr. Hinz looks none the worse for his
unhappy capture — in fact, I think if the cannibals had again the
same chance they would not wait for the fattening of this ex-
tremely good-looking and healthy specimen of manhood 1

u 305

CHAPTER X L 1 1 1
Duala

VICTORIA to Duala is something like a four-hours' steaming.
It rained, blotting out the scenery, and I conscientiously
felt I could take a siesta without depriving my readers of anything
interesting. After walking in the tropics you return soaking wet,
and it is advisable to bath and get into dry clothes immediately.
Sometimes I have been obliged to change three times a day.

In the afternoon we arrived oppositeDuala, having entered a deep
bay, the mouth of the Cameroon River. Here the outlook is very

different from Vic-
toria. Land is compar-
atively low, and thickly
wooded; plenty of rain
falls, and restful green
trees and shrubs form
a horseshoe of verdure.
We moor some dis-
tance from Duala,
and the ship stays
for thirty-six hours,
then returns to re-
main six or eight
days ; therefore it is
not necessary to hurry ashore. I prefer to wait till morning.
At dinner we are a small party, most of the passengers
having left, and I being a " tenderfoot ' -(I believe that's
American for never having been in a country before) — was intensely
interested in hearing stories told in native dialect by men who are
pioneers in the country. I give these to you as I hear them,
knowing that in cold black and white they do not strike one so
comically as when uttered from the lips of people who have the
proper accent.

Definition of a piano (native) :

.106

VILLA AT VICTORIA.

Duala

" It's a box : if you flack him he cry."

When inquiring after the health of a friend, you get as answer,
" He live for die." This means that he yet has that pleasure in
store for him.

If you have a sweetheart, according to West Coast vernacular,
' I love you bad " is an avowal of the most intense affection.
If a native is ill, and his master, wishing to cure him, asks his
symptoms, he dolorously answers, ' My skin no good to-day
—all place live for hot me." I have a new name — my friends
have re-christened me " Mrs. Cameron of the Cameroons," and
they say I must make it a title for my next novel.

Major Muhling, who has been resident in the country during
many of the native wars, relates that when he was with his men
fighting the Maka people, notorious cannibals, he had only
eighteen soldiers left out of his expedition. The chief had them
at his mercy. Major Muhling being a particularly big, tall, and
handsome man the natives told him openly, " You skin make
good cover for chief's drum." " Pleasant prospect, was it not ? "
he asked me.

" And I tell you," he continued, " I have been obliged to watch
those beasts cut up my dead soldiers — -take an arm off, and begin to
eat it ; then see the rest of the body sliced with cutlasses and taken
away to be smoked. After that the fiends would present different
pieces to other chiefs and relatives. It makes me shudder even
now to think what my eyes have seen ! We could do nothing-
being surrounded by cannibals who were thirsty and mad for
white men's blood."

' How horrible ! " I faltered. " You being of such ample pro-
portions I presume you particularly attracted them ? '

' Yes," he acknowledged. " They said, ' We chop you, take
skin first.' I assure you I had no desire to upholster their drums,"
he added grimly. " But at last relief came. I was then fighting
with Dominik — and what a good fellow he was ! "

Major Muhling also recounted other experiences of the cannibals,
and the long tracks he had made over rushing waters, through
bush, to Lake Chad ; in fact, completely exploring the Cameroons.

The next morning I went ashore in the launch. I like to say
launch because it sounds more dignified, and was such a contrast
to the many embarkations I have submitted to. In some cases
these were not at all conventional, especially when I have been

307

A Woman's Winter in Africa

dumped on to something that floated and eventually reached the
ship.

Duala is built on a promontory of perhaps 25 feet. It
is wreathed with tropical foliage. It is market day, and
crowds of natives have assembled on the beach. My friend
and I at once inspect the stores, which are spread out in
front of numerous women. Each woman has a dirty bit of
canvas or mat to keep shop on ; and the produce is placed in tiny
piles dotted over this covering. Nakalle, a greasy-looking yellow
cake, is in great demand ; also small red peppers, dried fish
looking very ancient — this an import from Norway which natives
love — red and yellow palm nuts, dried shrimps, papaw fruit,

oranges, mealies, pine-
apples, and fresh cocoa-
nuts are the principal
exhibits of to-day.

The market women
come mostly from To-
goland. They wear
clean clothes draped
from the waist down-
ward, the rest of the
body being naked.
Fortunate ones have
gold ear-rings and
wire bracelets. One
very remarkable-looking woman sported a high blue turban
and smoked a huge black pipe. They were a picturesque group,
but when I tried to snapshot them the lady with the pipe
objected, and they scattered. My friend remarked, ' They
think it's a gun."

There was a collection of dug-outs on the shore, from which,
standing knee-deep in the water, natives were selling immense
branches of plantains. We climbed up the bank, the rich
damp soil reeking with heat, so much so one could almost feel
the trees and shrubs expanding. Wild verbena and hibiscus
trimmed the roadway. On top is the Strand Hotel, two-
storeyed, painted grey, and with double verandahs. It is the
only hotel, and I should say was fairly good in a primitive
way. Prices : 12s. a day for room only. A gentleman has been

308

TRADERS ESTABLISHMENT, DUALA.

I )uala

kind enough to loan us a carriage, for one can hire nothing, sin< e
everything is private property. Duala is a town covering a lengthy
space, therefore walking is a fatiguing process. From the terrace
the Union Jack flies o'er the now familiar factory of John Holt
and Co., while in the distance, through a grey cloud veil, the lofty
peak of the Cameroons is seen. Lower down towards its base one
discerns Buea, the white buildings of the Government House, and
even the road stretching along the mountain-side.

Coming past the hotel natives are returning from market, their
hands full. We have heard much talk lately of big hats ! Our
people really cannot compete with the Togoland fashion regarding
headgear. These natives are wearing palm-woven round hats
fully the size of
centre tables, while
hanging down from
the brim is a fringe
of straw which forms
a sort of veil. Cer-
tainly the ladies of
Togoland do not risk
their complexions,
and are completely
up to date !

I am presented
with some coral-red
flowers, and as they
are not tied, my friend, a Camerooner, says to the boy waiter,
" Bring small rope for flowers," which in our language is
equivalent to a bit of string. Another boy rushes in breathless
and exclaims, " Carriage live," which translated means carriage
waits. The vehicle is a tiny one-seated affair on two slender
wheels, and the mounting is rather difficult ; but I manage and
stow myself into as small a compass as possible. Then my com-
panion enters — the little horse no bigger than a child's pony; but we
have an outrider, or boy who walks behind, and off we go !

I had already telephoned to Mr. Holder — H.M. Consul-General—
asking if I might call. He has been thirty-two years in this country,
so where, I asked myself, could I get better information ? Streets
are clean, well-kept, and wide, with a great deal of shade, and, as
in all the German colonies, sanitation and cleanliness receive first

0O9

LANDING PIER, DUALA.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

attention. At Duala they are now laying the water on to the
houses through pipes. They have a good telephone service, and
two railways, one to the north and one to the south.

We arrive at the " factory " of Messrs. R. W. King, Ltd., a
Bristol firm, who began trading along this coast in 1649. Mr.
Holder ably represents this firm, and received us with character-
istic geniality. These factories — erroneously so called, as they
do not manufacture, but trade — usually consist of a spacious
compound, at the back of which is a long line of tin houses
for the employed natives — possibly fifty or sixty; a large
general store, a wholesale department, shipping offices, and a
good house for the manager. All these firms have big interests in
the interior and along the coast.

We climb to Mr. Holder's house by a lor>g flight of stairs.
A mo t all the buildings are raised upon piles, with the usual wide
verandah, which is mo:t essential in this torrid zone. In Mr.
Holder's house there are several large and spacious apartments.
It is very interesting to visit these bachelor homes, where an
embroidered cushion or picture frame from a beloved sister's or
mother's hand is proudly shown. You soon discover photographs
of the family, household gods — we all have them — and in most
cases men are very clever in the arrangement of their homes.

I recall many male abodes in all the countries I have visited,
and generally the rooms are simple, practical, and comfortable.
Mr. Holder's is more luxurious than most. He has purchased
many souvenirs on his trips to the motherland ; but even he
has succumbed to the granuphone.

I presented my credentials to my compatriot, who, as he held
out his hand in welcome, said, " You're the only woman of your
trade I have met out here since Mary Kingsley."

' Miss Mary Kingsley ! ' I exclaim. ' Oh, but you mustn't
class me with her ; she was an explorer — I am only a traveller.
I have done nothing." A mental lightning-flash recalls Miss
Kingsley's wonderful adventures. She was a legitimate pioneer
and explorer — the first woman to climb that mighty Cameroon
Peak.

She was the premier feminine pilot to navigate the great
Ogowe River, which is full of deceptive whirlpools and falls. She
lived among the M'Fans — cannibals — and herself describes her
progress through mangrove swamps, and how when she emerged

310

I )uala

she released the necklace of leeches which attached themselves to
her throat during the imprisonment of her hands. Being com
pared with such a woman is indeed flattery.

About twenty years ago Miss Kingsley on two occasions
visited these parts, and her book of experiences could not fail to
leave an indelible mark upon memory's pages. She went out to
nurse the soldiers in the Boer War, and gallantly laid down her
life in the performance of honour, patriotism, and duty !

" Do, Mr. Holder, tell me some of your experiences. You know
the land so well, and have seen the development from primitive
savagery to the pre-
sent conditions of the
country — civilization
and good govern-
ment."

" Well," he began
thoughtfully, "when
I first came here
thirty-two years ago
things were indeed
different. In those
days we traders and
all whites lived on
the hulks of old dis-
mantled ships out there in the river." He pointed to the
water just below us a few feet from his sitting-room.

One could see the picture. " We had a tin roof to protect us
from the sun, and made a lot of holes through the sides of the
vessel in order that the breeze might circulate. I remember one
time I never even came ashore for eighteen months."

" But why was that ? ' I interrupt. ' I am interested and
want to know all."

" There was nothing to come ashore for," he resumed. ' The
two principal native tribes were at war, the Akuas and Dualas
of Bell Town. I have watched their battles, seen hundreds
chopped up with machetes or cutlasses, and there was neither
time nor inclination for burial, so they threw them into the river.
The water would be red with blood. These natives, the cannibals
of the Cameroons, are especially warlike, ferocious, and without
conscience,"

CAMEROON RIVER.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Mr. Holder then told me a story of how the Dualas used to treat
their medicine men. When they had become suspicious of them
— perhaps the destined poison had not worked, or they feared
confidences betrayed — they used to make them drink a bottle of
rum ; then they tied their hands behind their backs, forced their
mouths wide open with sticks, and threw them into the river.
This certainly was an effective way of getting rid of them, and
perhaps they chose a less dangerous profession in the afterworld.

An old steward who knew Miss Kingsley describes her as
follows : " Dem woman all same man, he put small gun for him
pillow." It is the custom in West Africa with the native to
describe all genders as " him."

Mr. Holder related the sad affair of Mr. Pontanius, at that time
agent of the Woermann Linie. It was during the war, and the Ger-
mans were shelling Bell Hill, where Duala is now situated. The Joss
people and their Chief were there. Mr. Pontanius came out upon
his verandah — an unfortunate circumstance, for immediately he
was sprung upon by the natives and taken to their huts. ' When
the Chief die, you die," they declared. Calabar Joss, the Chief,
was shot, and these natives killed Mr. Pontanius — -as they said,
" bone by bone."

The Bell Chiefs have ruled " Bell Town " or Duala for many
generations. Manga Bell was sent to England and educated at
Bristol. He built a palace at Duala, in which the present King
Bell lives. This Chief received his education in Germany. A long
row of buildings — his harem — is a short distance from the
theatrical-looking palace. There is a severe local discussion going
on regarding the transplanting of the natives who live at the
back of Duala to a sort of reserve for them at half-an-hour's walk
from the town. The authorities desire their removal from a
sanitary point of view, but the natives remain obdurate, saying
they will not leave, and the Chief has sent a petition to the
Government at Berlin.

Duala has a white population of 600, and 50 European ladies
reside here, also about 40 Englishmen. It is policed by native
soldiers armed, and they wear khaki uniforms, to which a bright
dash of colour is given by their red-and-blue caps. After a very
pleasant visit to Mr. Holder I mention that we must be going, as
the Eleonore Woermann is leaving at two for Kribi, a port further
down the coast.

312

Dual a

'' Going to Kribi, are you ? So is a friend of mine you must
meet him, and he will show you the place." Whereupon he called,
"Boy, fetch Mr. Sonncnbcrg." When this gentleman made his
appearance 1 could not tell if he was English or German, as he
spoke my tongue so well ; but he proved to be German, and had
represented Messrs. Hatton and Cookson for twenty-three years
on the coast.

People certainly are good to me, and have been all through
this long journey. When I look back upon the kindnesses I
have received I cannot be grateful enough. This gentleman is
courtesy itself, and offers to take care of me and make all arrange-
ments. I leave for the jetty, where I have not long to wait. The
Woermann launch
has not forgotten to
call for me, and I am
soon on my ship
again.

We are few at
dinner, in fact only
two other ladies be-
sides myself. One is
a girl who expects
to meet her sweet-
heart when we reach
Kribi at 10 o'clock
to-night. They are to
be married to-morrow morning. Although not pretty, as the world
would say, she has a beautiful complexion, and in one of her best
white gowns looks very nice. She has been in a rather nervous
and excited flutter all clay, and the menfolk joke her about the
wedding, to which remarks she answers with furious blushes.

The other lady is pretty, young, slight, and dresses charmingly.
She also is almost a bride, as she joins her husband, who is
engaged in the rubber trade, after a few weeks of honeymoon in
Germany. She is keenly impatient to be reunited to her husband.
We arrive at our destination at the correct time, and the few
passengers hang over the taffrail looking into the darkness.
Suddenly we see a boat with lights looming from the black dis-
tance. The excitement of both ladies increases. Halloos are
sounded across the water, and an answer comes back. ' It's

MANGA BELL S PALACE, DUALA.

3*3

A Woman's Winter in Africa

him — mine man ! " joyfully announces the young married German
lady.

" There is only one man in the boat," whispers a gentleman
beside me. I glance at the bride-girl in white; she is smiling,
for she has not heard.

At last the boat draws near, and out springs the married man,
heedless of danger, even before the boat is tied. He rushes up and
embraces his wife.

But the prospective bride stands sadly alone — her groom has
not come ! Oh, the irony of fate ! The joy and disappointment
— the difference between the two women !

I feel so sorry for the girl in white. I take her hand to say
good night, and murmur something about Morgen — I can't ex-
press myself in German — and I feel she would like to rush to her
cabin for a good cry.

There has been some mistake about a telegram, and the
bridegroom-elect, who is stationed in the interior, could not get
down in time. I hear the popping of champagne corks close by,
and merry laughter ; but my thoughts follow the girl in white
to her cabin. Alas ! " The best laid schemes o' mice and men
gang aft agley."

For the last eight days my address has been the Cameroon
River, and we are moored off Duala, the largest town of the
Cameroons. It was not possible to get rooms at the Strand Hotel,
which being small is quickly filled, and I prefer to live on board,
it being much cooler and healthier. I can always go ashore
whenever I wish.

It was the Portuguese who gave this river its name. At
the season when the explorers visited these waters they found
such a quantity of small lobsters or crayfish that they could
almost float on them, so they christened the river after the fish.
A dredger is constantly at work on the drifting sandbars, and
there is a large dry dock belonging to Woermann and Co.

On the right-hand side of Duala stands a large hospital,
constructed for coolness. This is often crowded, many cases of
blackwater, malarial fever, and sleeping-sickness, which is pre-
valent in the interior, being sent here. The Government buildings,
High Court, Post Office, churches, schools, and police head-
quarters are fine handsome buildings, and suited to the country,
as in all German colonial towns. Duala possesses a large rain-

3 '4

A Woman's Winter in Africa

fall, thereby ensuring beautiful vegetation, in the shape of
flowering bush, passion flowers, orchids, palms, breadfruit trees,
acacias crowned with blooms, and just outside the town immense
fields of maize, tobacco, and cocoanut. There are numerous fine
residences, mostly built upon piles, heavily shaded.

It was very interesting to go ashore early in the mornings and
walk before the sun became too fierce. Strolling clown the long
main street, which is kept very clean, watching native life, is
most interesting. A black woman coolly puffing an old briar pipe,
a baby perched on her hip, strides by you ; little girls bearing

trays of red and
yellow kola nuts smile
in passing. Natives
naked to the waist cut
grass with huge-bladed
machetes. Hausa men,
dignified Mohammed-
ans, wearing long toga-
like garments with
strange designs, saun-
ter along, some of them
having walked across

the desert from Mo-
catholic CHURCH, DUALA ^^ Imagine setting

out nonchalantly for a foot journey which will last a couple
of years or more ! What matter ? Kismet ! Everything is
preordained.

These Hausas are decidedly more intelligent than, and far superior
to, other native tribes. The Afrikanische Company have a fine
large depot here, and possess the concession for all medical stores.
I hear they have also established a big steam laundry and a
circulating library. A new hotel is in process of building, and
a half-erected theatre rests unfinished owing to the company
having been wrecked upon that dangerous rock called bankruptcy.

There is a very large Catholic mission, which has fine grounds,
and near by the imposing residence of the Bishop of the West
Coast. Opposite, the Catholic and Protestant cemeteries bring in a
touch of sadness. I wander through them and read the names on
simple white crosses. How many hopes are buried in this sacred
plot ! People who came here full of ambition, eager to make

316

Duala

fortunes, were felled by fever and interred in a few hours — ashes
to ashes ! Aloe trees, palms, hibiscus, frangipanni, japonica, and
coral plant decorate and shade this " God's acre."

The Basle Mission is also very prominent at Duala. I pass the
Palaver House, or native court, where in old days momentous
questions of peace or war were discussed. In the native shops
where liquor is sold, the proprietors having paid £20 for a licence,
the German coat-of-arms with the Imperial Eagle is outside, and
the natives who flock to these places make a rendezvous with their
friends— ' To dem pigeon " —meaning the eagle. I like very

"4&...

POINT AND PART OF RESIDENTAL QUARTER, DUALA.

much to watch the native women, some of whom are well dressed
in European clothes and wear a profusion of gold jewellery.

The woman question is a very serious one in Africa. Volumes
could be written about the spell of the black woman. I dislike to
touch upon this subject, and yet as I have promised to tell the
truth of what I see and hear I shall endeavour to be as brief and
clear as possible upon this delicate subject.

We all know that white men and native women in India, Aus-
tralia— in fact, in all our colonies — have met on familiar ground,
and that their relations are not always platonic. We have the
Eurasian as an example of this. One must blame someone or

317

A Woman's Winter in Africa

something, so we will say it's the fault of the climate — which at
any rate can't answer back !

I began to hear of these affairs when I first arrived in Africa,
and they pursued me through Rhodesia. At the Cape, our
oldest colony, one sees no end of proof in the mixed black-
and-white population one encounters everywhere. But in
Rhodesia, where white men have brought their white wives, the
Nemesis of wrongdoing sometimes follows in a way which we abhor.

The matters I am about to relate were told me by a charm-
ing English girl who shared my compartment from Salisbury
to Umtali. All the people who live in this part of the world will
remember and verify the case. The lady kept house for her
brother, a prominent business man. About four nights before I
met her she retired to rest as usual, a baby child of another brother
who had recently lost his wife lying in a small bed beside her.

About midnight she was awakened by a noise outside her bed-
room, the door of which opened on to a verandah. She started up,
calling out, " Who's there ? ' No response followed. Restless,
she could not sleep.

In half an hour or so she again heard the noise, and in a mirror
of the wardrobe plainly saw a native trying to get in. Instantly
she rushed to her brother's room, explaining what was the matter.
The brother snatched up his revolver and rushed to the verandah.
He saw the Kaffir running and fired at him, but he disappeared.

The next morning, towards dawn, the Kaffir died. The pre-
liminary examination took place before a magistrate on the day I
met her, and this young lady, being very much upset, nervous, and
unable to sleep, was going away for a change to visit friends at Um-
tali. She confided to me that manypeople had written to her brother
and herself commending them upon their action and bravery.

These attacks, I regret to say, are becoming of frequent
occurrence in the isolated places of Rhodesia — between natives
and white women. When the Colonies were first occupied the
men took what they should not — the Kaffir women. These women
were in no way protected. There was no law for them against
being commandeered by white men, and the Kaffir brother or
father, now that they have become more civilized, resent the
lasciviousness of their masters.

The one object and vow amongst Kaffirs is that in revenge they
will violate a white woman. When Englishmen are obliged to leave

3i8

Duala

their womenkind on isolated farms every one has her revolver, in
case it is required. Now the white man reaps the harvest which
other men have sown.

In German South-West Africa the Government are very strict
on this question, and if a man has a child by a native woman he
becomes a social outcast, and is liable to be expelled from the
country, whatever difficulty exists.

When I arrived at Gaboon I heard that these women were a
sort of prize in the grab-bag. A man said to me: "The Gaboon
women, they sew, they cook, they keep the house clean, and if
the man is a trader
they help him in his
business." At the
time I supposed he
meant that they
were more intelligent
and made better
servants, and the
thought that they
lived as wives with
white men never
occurred to me.

I afterwards heard

,, t SURF AND LIGHTHOUSE AT KRIBI.

that many men from

the Cameroons and all along the coast sent to Gaboon for a
woman. They have to pay the French Government £5 as export
duty on a native Gaboon girl, and she is, like other merchandise,
put on to a ship and sent to the man.

I have heard much discussion upon this sex subject, and
read articles for and against which have been printed in the
" Zukunft," which is read all over the German colonies. Dr.
Gowere has very cleverly expressed his opinion upon the situation.
The excuse is that few white women can bear the climate ; but
this will be remedied in time with the advance of civilization and
the gradual diminishing of fever.

The men argue that if they bring a white wife out, first there
is the danger to her health, and then, if a child comes, she must be
sent home ; also, if a man has a wife he must own a larger establish-
ment, as he cannot live in two rooms, which contented him in
bachelor days. Therefore, eliminating sentiment from the matter,

319

A Woman's Winter in Africa

the fact remains that the white woman is expensive. The black
woman, on the other hand, is a help, and costs him practically
nothing ; he is in no way tied, and if he goes home she returns
to her family. Should he die, his relatives receive all his belong-
ings, and although the native woman may have lived with him
and kept his house' for years he is under no obligation whatsoever.

It is useless to speak of morality in connection with the natives,
as they have no idea what it means. A missionary informed me
that they had the greatest difficulty in teaching them the scriptural
law against adultery. The man says, " It is not wicked to take
advantage of a young girl, for she got no husband "; while he
knows very well that if he is too familiar with a married woman,
and found out, he will be rolled over a log, and on his bare back
will receive twenty-five lashes vigorously dealt by the husband with
a pliable stick ; also that the further he stands away the greater
effect will the stick have. Thus does the husband avenge his honour.

Nor does the native see the commandment " Thou shalt not
steal " in quite our light. His maxim is, "It is not wicked to
steal from the white man, 'cause he got so much."

I began to remark that whenever I visited the menfolk along
this coast, invariably someone went into the house first while I
waited outside, saying, " Just a moment — I will see if dear so-and-
so is presentable." In this land of heat naturally a man often sits
in his shirt sleeves or pyjamas.

After a short period I would hear, " Right -o ! Come up."
I am here speaking of Englishmen. I entered the house to find
everything quite proper, the men very glad to see a white woman
and to talk home news. Subsequently someone enlightened me
by this remark : ' You know we always go in first so as to get
his black woman out before you appear."

This news gave me a sort of sickening sensation. To me
it seemed horrible — these nice men and this horrid depravity.
I turned to the man, saying, " I presume you have a black darling
as well as the others ? ' He laughed rather shamefacedly and
answered, " Not as yet." It is peculiar that a man will not tell
you about his woman, though he does not mind giving you all
the information regarding his friend's woman, and even shows
you a photograph of a creature with braided wool standing spike-
like from the head, making her resemble a porcupine, and with
great thick lips and a flat nose.

320

KING BELLS TRIUMPHANT PROGRESS THROUGH THE STREETS OF DUA1.A
ACCOMPANIED BY HIS FAVOURITE JU-JUS.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

I asked this man as I scrutinized the gorilla-looking woman,
"Do they kiss these women?' He replied, "You take too
serious a view of the thing," and assumed an attitude of bravado.
I shuddered with disgust, as I had wasted my sympathy.

This is all I shall say about this vital sex problem, which
stretches itself along the entire West Coast. It is not my affair,
for Africa is Africa, and like no other land.

I was told that in some places when a white man comes out
and tries to lead a clean life his not taking up with a black woman
causes him to be boycotted by the fraternity. In the case of a
trader his factory is given the go-by, the blacks bringing their
ivory, rubber, and other produce to the merchant whose house is
kept by one of their own kin. I hope that is not true. One could
fill pages, and volumes have been written of the lives of these people.

I will drop the subject.

Mr. Emerson, a missionary from Tawonde, relates the following
story of a Bula tribe Christian. He came to the mission and com-
plained that Ze, his neighbour, had been swearing at his wife,
had taken the name of the Lord in vain, and should be disciplined
by the Church — he being a Christian it was very wicked.

The minister called the offender before him to give him admoni-
tion. Ze solemnly explained that he had some palaver with his
wife about the children. "What swear words did you say to her? "
demanded Mr. Emerson. " I said to my wife, ' You had better wash
your face, it has not been clean for six weeks.' This remark was,
according to native code, considered the most terrible accusation.

The Bula tribes are not cannibals, but they have many
strange ideas. A boy of seventeen died, and Mr. Emerson went
to the house. Usually there is much yelling and moaning in
honour of the dead. These people were Christians, and everything
was very quiet. Mr. Emerson found a fragile little woman sitting
on the bed by her dead son. It is their custom to remain with the
body until it is buried. Mr. Emerson, standing to read a short
service at the grave, was surprised to see the brothers of the boy
bringing the corpse, which was wrapped in a straw mat, it being
always the women who bury the dead. He spoke to them en-
couragingly, telling them he was glad to see that they were
relieving women of the burden. They explained, " We bring him
because we are Christians, but in Bula custom — if a man touches the
dead he never get children." Such is the superstition amongst them.

322

M ■-■■

CHAPTER XLIV
Kribi

MR. SONNENBERG, true to his promise, sent a boat for
me early next morning. There were eight smartly-dressed
boys wearing cotton jackets, and the band around each cap read
' Hatton and Cookson." Miss Kingsley mentioned in her book
borrowing boats from this
firm, but when I read her
interesting adventures I never
dreamt that I also would
at some time be grateful for
one of their boats.

We have a long way to row
over rolling surf. About me
I remark what look like black
men sitting on the rollers ;
now they disappear into a
valley of green water, then
they bob up serenely. These
natives are in the Batanga
canoes. They are celebrated
throughout the coast, but it
is only here you find them.
These canoes are about the
length of a man, and weigh
only fifteen pounds. The
natives hollow them from
cotton wood or other trees,
and in many cases moons and various objects are painted on
them in red for decoration. There is a narrow curved piece of
wood upon which the native mounts. Then he rides his boat as
if on horseback, and manages his tiny craft with such skill that
no matter how buoyant the surf he only experiences a rocking-
horse effect !

323

KRIRI FROM THE SKA.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

The only difficulty he has not mastered is the sharks. He
swings his legs overboard most of the time, and with his paddle
battles with them ; but in spite of all his care they frequently
nibble his legs rather dangerously. It is only these natives who
can navigate Batanga canoes — others have tried with dismal
failure.

A small white picturesque lighthouse is prominent on the Point,
surrounded by palms and a few houses. We enter the Kribi
River, which at present is very much like a creek; opposite, on
rising ground, stands a nice-looking Catholic Church, with high
spire. Next to this is the residence of the Fathers, and beyond
a school, a branch of the Palatine Mission. The convent is some
distance from the church.

An iron bridge crosses the river, and the dark shadowy trees
make beautiful reflections. Mr. Sonnenberg and another gentle-
man are awaiting me ; the latter has motored down from the
interior, and has had a nasty accident, for the car overturned,
spraining his wrist and injuring the chauffeur. They proceed to
take me to Mr. Sonnenberg's house, and exhibit the factory, which
resembles the others very closely. The house was large, lofty, and
airy, with green shutters, and everything most comfortable. On
the table, as in all these bachelor homes, there are large round
glass jars tightly closed, where repose tobacco and cigarettes.
They are kept thus protected against dampness.

In the dining-rcom he has a very good collection of antlers.
I admired a fine sideboard made bv natives from the mahogany
grown close by.

We went to the big shed outside, but here the odour was any-
thing but pleasant ; at first I wondered what it could be, but
Africa has taught me never to be surprised at anything ! In this
shed twenty-five or thirty natives are preparing rubber for ship-
ment. Trees are tapped in the interior, and the thick, white,
milky substance taken from the pots or basins. Then it is put
into boiling water, where it coagulates into hard lumps, varying
from the size of a large potato to a pineapple. These pieces are
rolled into shape on the ground, afterwards being placed in
canvas sacks and sealed.

Now the carrier in the interior puts a kinja on his back. This is
a receptacle for holding wares, made of a twisted creeper called
bush-rope. The strands are arranged into a light, portable

324

Kribi

fixture, which fits upon the back and over the shoulders of the
native. Nearly all the carriers are cannibals, and have theii teeth
filed to points, denoting the fact. Next the carrier is loaded with
the sacks of rubber or whatever he is carrying, and the same method
is used for all merchandise. Sixty pounds are put on his back,
for it is against the law to load a man with more than sixty-four
pounds. Off he starts. Usually there are thirty or forty in single
file, and they easily cover twenty-five to thirty miles per day.
Thus the rubber comes down from the huge tropical forests of the
hinterland through many vicissitudes — and eventually rolls softly
through the streets of the world's countries and various capitals.

in this shed the natives are squatting. They take up the lumps
of pure rubber, which look like dirty potatoes, and with their
sharp cutlasses slice the rubber and cut it up into blocks from
two to three inches square. These are thrown into a canoe of
water, dried, and packed into casks.

My host insists I shall take a piece of it as souvenir of my visit.
1 already have a curious collection of historical and pleasant
reminders of my trip, consisting of some hippo and rhino hide,
lion skin, and a box of diamond gravel — though I believe the
diamonds have been picked out ! ' Imp " says I am a mere
magpie collecting and hiding ! One curio I was very glad to buy
here is a carved ivory tusk, worked entirely by native labour, and
depicting the trades, men and animals of the country.

Upon coming out of the shed we found the compound full of
carriers who had just arrived, bringing more sacks of rubber.
Every sack must be inspected to see that the seal has not been
tampered with ; then they are checked, and the boys lay down
their burdens. These boys had been exactly one month on the
trail. With the exception of their loin-cloth they were naked,
their brown, shining skins resembling bronze, while they appeared
in perfect condition — fat enough, despite their long walk.

We started to circle the town, which being small, was not a
great feat to accomplish, and the roads are of hard red soil. The
Government has built splendid ones, and into the interior as well.
The sun is strong, but somehow one gets used to it in the tropics.
You wear your cork helmet and are satisfied, for you fear no
sunstroke ; are clothed in cotton, which you throw to the wash-
boy on your return ; and the continual mopping of your face you
get used to.

325

A Woman's Winter in Africa

You have discarded your complexion a long time since, and don't
need powder, because everyone you meet is shiny and perspiring
like yourself ! Kribi has a hospital, the High Court, native court,
and the usual Government buildings. The native court is gener-
ally held in the Avenue of Mangoes, which also does duty for the
military shooting-range. This long, cool walk, shaded by stately
and beautiful trees, forms an ideal retreat on a hot day. I ask
Mr. Sonnenberg what is the general native grievance. He replies :
' It's usually a woman palaver — cherchez la femme " —upon
which we both laughed.

' Yes, the woman is perhaps married to an old man, and as
they have no moral code she runs away with another. Then the
position arises — the wife must come back or the bridal money be
returned."

" But if the woman returns ? " I venture to ask.
' Then she is beaten and maybe killed," is the reply. ' Some-
times they kill one another, especially in the bush.

" There is one gruesome custom I must tell you about, which I
have myself noticed in my man}- trips up-country. In the grave-
yards one sees planted a bush or a tree. I thought this was quite
a nice idea, but I remarked that the decorations were tied to
something in the ground, and they all bent in the same direction.
Having some time on hand I investigated these graves, and in-
quired of my boys how it was that these little trees were tied ;
and what do you think ? " He paused to wipe his forehead.

" I haven't the faintest idea," I answer.

He continued :

" A certain tribe — the Njems — have the custom for a woman
to wear a large brass ring soldered around her neck. If she dies,
this is buried with her. They only cover the body with a small
quantity of earth. Then they tie a cord around the brass ring on
the dead woman's neck, heap the earth over her, and plant the
bush, remembering to leave the ends of the cord out of the grave,
and they tie the bush to this cord.

" As the bush strengthens and grows it pulls the cord with it. In
the tropics decomposition sets in at once, and soon the body is
rotten. As the memorial bush grows the neck gives way, and
the bush pulls the ring with the rope out of the grave. The fond
husband, who calculates about how long this process will take,
now appears, carefully cuts the cord, sets the bush at liberty,

326

4wtw.'o, ;\:

■■ lit.

s^t.€" m : ^ %>r^ ^ ,v ;

iJgt?^^ '- '^^\jj|

A Woman's Winter in Africa

and recovers the neck ring of his former wife. His grief is in a
measure assuaged, and he's about to take a new spouse. Thus
he reclaims the ring for his betrothed."

Verily one can say, " Their ways are not our ways."

We pass several good houses, thoughtfully built in regard to
the climate, and come to Dr. Jacobs the Commissioner's fine
residence, built of stone high up on terraces, on which hundreds
of cacti have been planted ; the wide verandahs being shaded by
hedges of wild verbena, yellow and red hibiscus, convolvulus, and
the sweet, odorous, white-bloomed frangipanni. I ask mv friendly
courier about the big game of the interior, and lie tells me that
there are plenty of elephants about two hours from Kribi. Lions
are in the north ; many leopards, of which care must be taken
when in camp ; antelope and crocodiles.

' Did you ever taste elephant meat ? " inquired Mr. Sonnen-
berg.

' No, but I have eaten bear steak in Texas, and it is like beef-
steak, only coarser," I affirm.

" Up-country we often eat the trunk of elephant, but it is
rather tough, and is better when it is put through a mincing-
machine, though as far as taste goes it is much the same as beef."

We enter the site set aside for an eternal memorial to that
noble soldier who for fifteen years fought so gallantly against
the cannibals, and especially the ferocious Makas — Major Hans
Dominik. The plot is neatly arranged and planted with crotons.

The base of the monument is of grey granite, brought especially
from Germany. The inscriptions are : ' Major Hans Dominik.
Born May 17th, 1870. Died Dec, 1910. Not looking to the right,
not looking to the left. Forward, straight ahead, having faith in
God, and through," is the translation from the German. A more
than life-sized bronze figure of this beloved hero surmounts the
top. Dominik is wearing the Colonial uniform — with a large hat
buttoned sharply up at the side, his hands resting on his sword,
and his eyes gazing " straight ahead."

It is a very impressive memorial, and was erected in gratitude
by the leading firms of the country — six German and three
English companies. It was designed and executed by Herr
Moebins, a Berlin artist, at the cost of over £1000. Mr. Sonnen-
berg was one of the first to propose this tribute, helping to
choose the place and glorify the memory of the brave man.

328

Kribi

-*h.

The inhabitants of Kribi number some seventy while men and
five or six women. I called upon the young married lady who so
joyfully met her husband hist evening, and found she had a very
pretty little home. Her husband showed me how he had furnished
the house in two weeks, having done everything himself. I found
it quite wonderful. All the verandah windows had charming
white -flowered curtains with little tassels, and branches of palms
formed a welcoming arch over the door. He had made a cosy
corner, and decorated it with native curios. Flowers of a wild
tropical kind filled big bo wis ; he was so pleased and enchanted
with his home and pretty wife.

It is delightful and rare to see people happy, and I must con-
fess that I have seen
more contented mar-
riages on this trip
thanl have in London
or any of the big
cities I frequent.
Mv poor opinion is
that out in the wilds
the husband and wife
rely more one upon
the other — they be-
come more united.
There are not the dis-
tractions, each one go-
ing his or her ow n way and drifting apart, as is the case in big cities.

Tire Elconore Woermann only remains in the roadstead until
noon, then steams to Plantation, twelve miles further up the
coast. She is discharging cargo and looking for rubber. My
host has a splendid thought — he will drive me to Plantation and
his friends will give us lunch there; thus I shall be able to see a
beautiful road through the heart of a tropical forest.

I, who thirst for knowledge, gratefully accept. We return to
his "factory," and the carriage — " live quick " —is ordered. It is
not long before we are seated in the light, small affair behind
Katta Katta, a malignant name for such a good black horse.
Katta Katta means bad. Men are so called by the natives, and
this horse in the days of its youth was inclined to stand on his
hind legs and exhibit other playful traits of mischief !

329

PLANTATION.

A Woman's Winter in Africa

We have a chaperon in the form of a boy, who walks along the
side and sometimes ahead of the carriage. My friend has a
motor, which he regrets has a broken cylinder ; it has been laid
up for five months. By each steamer he expects a new one
from Berlin.

The road is very smooth, and most of the time we are under
the shade of giant trees. Would that I could give 3^011 a picture of
this forest scene ! Streams glide through dense flowered glades
where tangled sunshine casts light chequered with shadow. The
Government has built substantial concrete and iron bridges over
these ideal streams, that sometimes swell to rivers, at great outlay.
Many of these, I am told, cost as much as £1500, on account of the
soft soil, so easily washed away. On one hand are huge quantities
of the cassava, the root of which the native relishes immensely.
The fou-fou, or manioc, is made from this, and we obtain tapioca
from the same plant. Roots are as large as big carrots. Above
them waves the tall, graceful oil palm, the leaves of which are a
dark green and look a trifle greasy.

Enormous breadfruit trees, several standing together, seem to
block a bend in the road ; their broad, glossy leaves and the
melon-sized green fruit hanging high on the branches recall Bible
stories. Here is a native village, a compound of reeds, and two
long palm-plaited houses, divided into one room for each family.
They are holding some sort of a palaver, sitting in a circle in
the fierce sunlight. Their gardens are full of yams, tall maize, and
banana trees. All their needs are supplied by the generous hand
of Nature, which only requires a hectare of soil to produce a
plentiful harvest.

Down there in those dark pools, screened by tall grasses, my
thoughts turn to snakes, and I inquire if they are troubled with
these loathsome reptiles. The answer is that they have boa-
constrictors, who swallow a kid or lamb ; but these are not
numerous, and they are fortunate not to have the deadly poisonous
snakes of India. What create great bother, however, are the
green water variety, which, when you are paddling across a river,
try to crawl into your canoe; and when fording the streams
they bite you and also your horse. They are badly poisonous, but
not deadly.

Umbrella trees, huge and high, with five or six leaves in a cluster
drooping downward, vary the verdure, and road ferns help to

330

■-
<

A Woman's Winter in Africa

decorate it. Palms, not content to be just themselves, lodge para-
sites, which tumble from their resting-places in flowering cascades
of splendour. From the other side is wafted on the hot air the
pungent odour of white frangipanni, and birds pour out
their tiny hearts' gratitude in a song of love, joy, and
glorificatk n.

Nature is so prodigal of her gifts ; but even in this forest
her laws hold sway. Amongst the young splendour of shooting
greenery, strong with new-born vigour, is an optimist who finds
life good. There by its side — fallen — dead — lies the bleached
trunk of a one-time mighty giant of the forest. But the lianes,
a large family, rally around this stricken king, creep towards him,
stretch out tentative tendrils, caress, cajole, tighten with sym-
pathetic touch their hold upon his dead carcase ; and, as if
ashamed of his white nakedness, lend their green robes to cover
his rotting form.

They are ambitious. Not only do they beautify the fallen, but
unfortunately embrace the living — with a passion so strong that
their clinging hold crushes out the life of strength and towering
beauty. They cover and wreathe the road, creeping, spreading,
and clinging. Weaver birds have made homes on several trees,
and their long, drooping nests — a hundred or so on a tree — form
quite a colony.

Seated en a log are a M'Fan woman and man. Mr. Sonnenberg
says: " Ycu must see these people," and pulls the reins for Katta
Katta to stop. He calls the woman in native jargon, and she comes
forward. I immediately snapshot her, but in the shade of the forest
I fear the photograph will not do her justice. Her headdress is
the most extraordinary thing I have ever seen. The wool is braided
and smeared into decorations that render it solid, and cannot be
removed without great difficulty and cutting.

Of course this woman is a cannibal — all the M'Fans or Pahuins
are. She is slender, perhaps four feet in height, and wears a skirt
of cloth, the rest of the body being naked. From ear to ear, and
drawn through her nose, is a string of money beads, small and
round, of blue and white. Across her forehead is another line of
dark blue glass. On the centre of her head, raised by her wool
about two inches in height, is a broad piece of leather four inches
in width studded thickly with flattened, large-headed brass nails.
Each side of this supports a band of cowries, or shells, which are

332

Kribi

used for money. From these, sticking out on cadi side, are two
large tiger teeth.

My friend says they are imitation , made of porcelain. The natives
think them grand. They cost one penny, and are sold for sixpence.
Just over the ears arc three rows of little black and white shirt
buttons, sewn as closely together as possible. This woman is
also encumbered with a brass leg ring, two thumb rings, and an
iron bracelet. On her breasts strange tattooings denote emblems
of her tribe. This is done by
cutting the skin in pattern
and rubbing in some black
mixture. She submitted to
my scrutiny, standing motion-
less while I jotted down these
notes of her weird appearance.

" I wouldn't have missed
her for a great deal," I laugh-
ingly tell my companion. He
assures me that it is not often
a M'Fan woman of her stamp
is seen near the coast.

On we jog, and two points
washed by surf, which is very
strong to-dav, come into
view. Pineapple Point, or
New Hamburg, boasts of one
factory. New Bremen, its
rival, not to be outdone, has
a'so one. Mr. Sonnenberg
waves his hand and says,
' Here are a lot of Fans," and seated on the roadway, their
empty kinjas beside them, were twenty-five or more. Now we
are all alone, except our outrunner hoy, and I don't know
whether my friend is armed or not. I hope so, as I have recently
heard so many true stories of cannibals, and of these particular
Fans, that I am not at all pleased to make their acquaintance.

Mr. Sonnenberg addresses them, and they all get up to follow

MONUMENT TO MAJOR DOMINIK, KRIBI.

Oh ! I feel a creepy sensation down my back as the}'

, naked, with the same ugly

l5l
walk behind us, but all are smiliin

tattoo marks as their women. I am not in the least comfortable,

A Woman's Winter in Africa

I soliloquize ; one never knows. They say they do not dare to
molest white people, but there have been cases, and I don't wish
to figure in one. Suppose they surrounded us — what could we
do, twenty-five or thirty cannibals to two people ? How I wish
we could get to Plantation !

" You're not afraid ? " asks my companion.
' Afraid ? No ! " I falter, with all the time that dreadful cold
feeling running up and down my back. In imagination I almost
feel them pulling me out of the carriage. I give a quick side glance.
Yes, there they are ; they can easily touch us if they want to.
" Where are they going ? " I try to be brave.
" Plantation, where we go."

' Heavens ! " I say, " they will be with us all the way."
I don't enjoy the drive now, and am glad when we arrive at
Plantation.

It was half-past two, for the journey had taken longer than we
supposed. There was the Eleonore rocking a long distance out, but
the launch had gone. I was introduced to Mr. Sonnenberg's friends,
Mr. and Mrs. Albrecht, a gentleman and his wife who manage the
Hamburg- Af ri ka factory. There was no time for lunch or refreshment
but this gentleman was indeed good to get his big sail-boat ready.
' The ship may leave at any moment — better hurry in at once,"
said my friend.

The surf was extremely heavy. Oh, those ugly green
breakers ! The crew were ready ; I was seized — put in a blanket,
one native held my shoulders, another my feet, while they waded
through the boiling surf, and I was thrown into the boat like a sack
of potatoes. I bounded up from the bottom, none the worse except
a skinned knee, finally waving my hand to the friends on shore.
' If you lose the Eleonore take my boat and catch her at Longgi
— she puts in there for cargo."

I pray all the gods I have ever heard of not to let me miss the
Eleonore, but she appears to be miles out. I think, what should
I do ? I had taken little money on shore, and the piece of ivory
I tightly kept my hand on for fear it would roll overboard had
absorbed all my spare cash. I was penniless until on the ship,
for the captain had my money locked in his safe.

I looked at the crew — I was all alone with thirteen black men,
and most of them were the dreaded Fans. How I hated their
ugly, filed teeth ! They had raised the big canvas of the boat,

oo4

Kribi

arid^careering on the top of those bounding rollers was something
fearful. I had no time to be very nervous, for I had to hold on
with all my force. The angle that boat took under sail was extra-
ordinary !

On we bobbed, and I kept my eyes fixed on the Eleonore, hoping,
fearing, dreading. Then I would look along the coast. Far away
were the dimly lined white houses of Longgi — it would take hours
to get over there. Thoughts of every danger assailed my excited
brain, but being a fatalist I reasoned, If my end comes to-day-
well, it will be over ; there is no use fidgeting. What is the old
Arab saying ? " Every man's fate is bound around his neck."

This philosophizing made me feel more calm. We had passed
out of the worst rollers,
and were making head-
way. The Eleonore still
rocked. If the captain
or chief officer, Mr.
B rammer, saw me
coming he would cer-
tainly wait. My steers-
man produced a bottle
of gin. Instantly I hope
they are not going to get
drunk — that would be
too awful ! The man
puts the neck of the
bottlewell inside his black mouth lined with scarlet. "Good!" he eja-
culates after taking a long swig. Another hand reaches out for the
bottle ; he glues his thick lips, takes a draught, then squints inside.

I stare in fascinated horror. He passes it on to the man
beside him who is holding the sail rope ; he in tarn glues his
mouth to the bottle. Then the steersman takes it, and passes
it to me, saying, " Mummie have — it live for good," in pidgin-
English. I am glad I am born with a sense of humour. It drowned
my fear, and I laughed heartily. Fancy the nigger mouths ! The
gin (" mother's ruin ") I declined !

' Imp " says. " All's well that ends well," and I was thankful
when I grasped the hand of the chief officer, who was waiting for
me, climbed over two other boats, and gratefully scrambled up
the gangw-ay.

335

CEMETERY AT DUALA.

CHAPTER XLV

A Call on an English Ship

I HAD tea on the Thomas Holt, a cargo boat of 1600 tons.
Messrs. John Holt and Co. have been established on this coast
for thirty years, and the present owner and pioneer trader, John
Holt, Esq., revelling in the health and wealth of over seventy
years, lives at Liverpool, perspnally overseeing his huge interests.
From Cape Lopez coming homeward one sees his many factories
at every port of call, and also for miles up the interior. This
company is unique, inasmuch as it has its own ocean-going steam-
ships, which only carry
cargo for John Holt.
In addition it pos-
sesses a fleet of smaller
river steamers.

Captain Gladney and
his chief engineer, a
real Scotsman, called
for me in the launch.
It is windy, and it
takes some ingenuity
-**** to get alongside and

MARKET, DUALA. f°r ^ t0 h°P ^

After a little patience
the sea bobs the launch up to within a few feet of the gangway,
and I am landed safely. When we arrived I was very much
amused to hear the captain call over to the well -deck,
" Lhere's a woman on board — don't let your words be too
long ! ' It struck me as being funny, this equivalent to " Don't
swear."

I was shown over the ship, where everything was most comfort-
able, and nothing wanting. In the small saloon there were mirrors,
and I was much interested in a couple of bookcases in which Miss
Kingsley's volumes were proudly displaved. Although she has

336

A Call on an English Ship

been dead a Long time, and I think it is quite fifteen years since
she was onl there, she has no1 been forgotten.

There are three extra cabins, and Mr. Holt sometimes allows
orinvitesa passenger. We had a cosy tea, including an excellent
cake made on board. I inspected the private picture gallery of
the captain, and gazed upon the photographs of Mrs. Captain and
three very good-looking young daughters.

" Yes," said Captain Gladney, settling back into his arm-chair,
his grey-and-pink parrot perched upon his epauletted shoulder,
vainly trying to peck at his moustache, " it's quite different work-
ing for Mr. Holt, where everything is in accord, and there is mutual
sympathy and beneficial interest between the real head of the
firm and yourself. A big concern where you only form a part of
the general machinery, and never come in contact with the
principals, is miserable. Now take our ships. We never load on
Sundays, thus giving our men a rest. Other boats take cargo
all night — we never do."

' It's a wonderful firm," I acknowledged. ' One comes to
regard the name as that of an old friend in travelling along the
coast. I must thank John Holt and Co. for sending me the launch
to take me ashore this morning."

;< Oh, that's all right," and a genial smile passed over his features.
" How did you get on ? "

" All right ! Mr. Morris and a lot of other nice Englishmen
made me welcome, and showed me around. I called on Duala
Manga, and discovered that he does not live in his palace—
that's rented to Europeans. I had to go around the corner,
and at the end of the harem building I found one of his wives—
a yellow one, with three or four children sitting about. I asked
for the King, and they answered, ' King him gone for Bush.'

" You see queer things out here, but the Chief has no power or
influence now ; he is like any ordinary black man."

It occurred to me that it was a good opportunity to ask about
the trade interests between the English and the Germans, as this
English captain had spent many years out here and ought to
know the subject. 1 had noticed also that here at Duala, Germans
were the agents of the John Holt factory.

' How is it, Captain, that the Germans are so successful in
commerce ? " I asked.

" Englishmen of these times," stated the captain, " have not

V 'ill

* 00/

A Woman's Winter in Africa

the enterprise nor the perseverance of Germans. You see a young
German lad come out. He works hard for years, studying,
mastering the business, and afterwards, owing to sheer grit and
ability, becomes manager. Now take an Englishman. He wants
everything done for him ; he doesn't care to rough it. Take the
language question also. Every German speaks English, but you will
rarely find one of our countrymen out here who speaks German."

' True," I agree, sadly enough. " I have often felt very stupid
myself not being able to talk to these people, who most of them
speak English and French. My French has been of very little
service on this trip."

" Then the Germans are much more obliging," resumed the
captain. ' Take cargo, for instance. They will not grumble what
it consists of. English firms are more arrogant — everyone must
wait for them."

" One can't do that in these times of great competition. I
think we are far too conservative. What did for our ancestors
must do nowadays, which is an impossible state of affairs. We
lost the entire beer commerce of the Argentine because we in-
sisted they should drink the strong heavy ale of our forefathers.
Excellent, no doubt, but not at all adapted to a hot and thirsty
country ; consequently, the Germans sent their light Pilsen beer,
so millions of pounds drift annually into German pockets instead
of into our own. I was a reluctant witness of this fact when I
visited Buenos Ayres the winter before last."

' The Germans are clever, and. certainly rival us in trade,"
announced the captain.

' You must have seen at the different ports English cargo boats
showing largely the red line. The German ships will be laden
down above the cargo limit."

' That is dreadful for us — I don't like to see it," I protested.

:< But they have to thank themselves for it. Twenty years
ago we had practically all the trade ; now we haven't, and it's
the Englishman's own fault. We won't bother to go ashore and
hunt up cargo. The German captains send their officers for this.
A little conversation, a drink, and the business is done. English-
men are too grand, and consequently they have allowed them-
selves to backslide. You remember what King George said when
he returned from the colonies— ■' Wake up, England.' Well, that
was good advice."

338

A Call on an English Ship

' Another question , Captain why do all the people trave] home

on German ships? Why don't they patronize English lines? '

You ought to be able to answer that question better than I.
You tell me you have been on seven of the German ships."

" I must say 1 have found them splendid, both as regards
cabins, food, and attention ; but people who have taken other
ships and whom I have talked to, say there is no comparison
between them. Also that the food is quite different. At Libre-
ville 1 met the agent of the Elder Dempster Line, and he said :
' What are you doing on a German ship ? Why don't you patro-
nize your own ? ' to which I remarked, ' Why are your ships so
grand that you call only at the big ports ? I took my ticket all
round Africa by the German ships because for writing a book I
wanted to visit the smaller places which most people are not
familiar with ! "

' The Elder Dempster have recently built two ships which are
very fine, I hear," said Captain Gladney. ' Personally, I like the
Germans, and they certainly have done wonders out here."

I hope there will never be war between us," I venture to
suggest, to which he replies :

' Why should there be ? The trade jealousy is good for us—
makes each one keen, and keeps us up to the mark, so to speak.
We have no quarrel — no cause for war. It would be the most stupid
thing possible, and neither side would gain by it. The victor would
be ruined as well as the vanquished. It's halfpenny newspapers
that mostly talk about war. They have no idea — nobody has — of
what a war in the present time and conditions would mean.
What with torpedoes, submarines, Marconigrams, great-bore guns
that every time they are fired cost a couple of hundred pounds,
lyddite, Zeppelins, aeroplanes, and every killing machine which
the devil could invent let loose — Anglo-Saxon slaughtering Anglo-
Saxon — Ugh ! " he shrugged his shoulders.

' The very thought raises a picture too horrible to contemplate,"
I affirm.

' I have talked to a great many men, including officials of
Government and commerce, on my long route, of the possibilities,
advantages, and disadvantages, and they all say that instead of
burdening our people with further oppressive unpopular taxation
which in a few years, growing like an insatiable octopus, will
squeeze them into bankruptcy, the greatest benefit for the world

339

A Woman's Winter in Africa

would be for England and Germany to join hands in an alliance.
Restrict this continual thirst for building ships, and by an allied
agreement we could rule the Eastern Hemisphere, and have time
and money to develop those colonies which cry aloud for rail-
ways and waterways."

' Yes, we think nothing of spending one or two millions in
building a dreadnought which in a few years is outclassed by
something superior," thoughtfully admitted the captain. " How
much more benefit we should derive if those millions were spent
in building railways which would permanently open up a colony.
Such resources would pay the first outlay in a few years ! '

I think of Rhodesia.

' If one of those million pounds which we lavish so generously
on the Admiralty could by the agency of the waste waters of the
Victoria Falls make droughty Rhodesia by irrigation bloom like
a magic garden of roses ! " I continue. " But France and Russia
would, if possible, checkmate an understanding between England
and Germany. They are content to watch us run along the road
to ruin by way of armament. America would not favour it, but
she would be neutral, having her hands full with the Panama
Canal and the South American Republics."

The captain reminded me that in 1912 the Right Hon. Winston
Churchill offered the nations a truce to stop man-of-war building
for a year, but no nation decided to adopt the offer, or even to
compromise !

'Well, Captain, I think we have missed our vocations. We

should have been diplomatists, don't you think so ? " I laughed.

' Now we have become quite excited over our political ' palaver,'

and we are tiny atoms and can do nothing ! Words, only words !

But we at least have the welfare of our country at heart ! "

I glance at the clock. I have been an unconscionable time
—the conventional twenty minutes has lasted an hour and a
half ! I rise to go. The chief engineer is getting up fire in the
launch while I look down at the cargo. From the lighter alongside
great steel clamps embrace firmly the barrel tops of huge hogsheads.
These contain something like 150 gallons of palm oil. Big steel
chains tighten, a derrick which can hold thirty tons swings this
heavy, valuable cargo into the hold, and there it is neatly put into
place.

On the other side of the Thomas Holt hundreds of bags

-1

A ( all on an English Ship

of palm kernels are being packed for Liverpool, the cargo being
tidily arranged. I congratulate Captain Gladney on being sncli
a splendid housekeeper. lie laughs contentedly, and we grasp
the swinging ropes of the gangway leading to the dancing launch
below. More big waves, the steady churning of the screw, and in
a few moments the chief officer of the Eleonore grasps my hand,
one of my feet goes into the water, but with the other I manage
to land. I wave my handkerchief as the little launch puffs away.

Such is afternoon tea-drinking on the Cameroon River.

" Imp " declares it was most enjoyable.

.......

This morning a torrential storm broke upon us. Forked light-
ning glittered across the sky, and sheets of water fell over our ship.
It is high time to leave the Cameroons when the rainy season
begins, and day after day, what with the pouring rain and the
sultry heat, life is anything but agreeable. As soon as the heavy
shower was finished my interest centred on watching two enormous
mahogany logs trying to find a place in the hold. One weighed
twelve tons, the other ten. The captain said he had rarely seen
logs bigger.

It was a slow process, and had to be most carefully managed.
Looking down the deck one sees the niggers working, their
naked backs glittering as the perspiration drips off them. The
deck furniture, consisting of winches, derricks, boats, launches, rope
gear, and cable wires, also a few hogsheads of palm oil, still remain
to be stowed away. On the stern deck two Chinese washmen are
ironing, and from the further end droops a wet and lifeless flag.

Eventually the great logs are lowered, all the cargo has found
its niche, and the hatchway is covered while a general ship-cleaning
process begins. I am reminded of the old sailor's commandment :
" Six days shalt thou labour, and on the seventh, if thou art able,
thou shalt holy-stone the deck and scrape the cable."

Such scrubbing ! Sailors, niggers, and stewards like an army
appear with brushes, pails, waste rags for polishing brass, and
varnish pots for touching up ; and in a few hours the ship is
white, shining, and as clean as labour can make it. Everything
must be immaculate. This afternoon our passengers on the home-
ward voyage arrive, and we sail at dawn to-morrow morning.

' Imp " is gleeful — it says nothing is more interesting than
watching new arrivals,

34*

CHAPTER XLVI

Lagos

WHEN I arrived early in the morning on my second visit
to Lagos, some people told me that it would be a good
' bar day." I rather doubted this, because as one glanced at
the sea one could perceive gigantic pale green rollers jocundly

THE MARINA, LAGOS.

chasing each other in a hurried race to strike the yellow strip of
low-lying land. The coast appeared singularly unostentatious.
It retained a low level, as if trying to conceal itself, and not to
announce the fact that Nigeria is the richest colony of the West
Coast of Africa, and also one of our wealthiest possessions. I

342

Lagos

am ready to go ashore, and once more am thrusl overboard in the
detested " mammy chair," eventually finding myself on the l>; r

steamer.

The first things that impress one are the cistern and western
moles, which already extend a mile into the sea ; work is
progressing there as rapidly as possible. The Government intend
spending three million sterling on this waterway, and it is hoped
that, at the end of three or five years, by means of breakwaters
and constant dredging, vessels of large tonnage will be able to
cross the now dangerous bar. This would bring them directly
to the wharves, thereby affording great convenience as regards
landing passengers and cargo. At the present time the big ships
are obliged to anchor about five miles out in an open roadstead.

Many trains arrive every day from the north, bringing the neces-
sary stones for constructing the moles. At Lagos and on ship, every-
one looks forward with dread to passing the bar. In proceeding up
the rather narrow lagoon or Lagos River, one notices a fine brick
building in a splendid position facing the sea. This is the Govern-
ment Sanatorium. The lighthouse is very noticeable, and is much
valued along this coast, as a wrecked vessel with masts sticking
out of the water gives sad testimony. On the eastern mole, many
dwellings have been erected for the engineers and workmen
engaged in this gigantic work of giving Lagos a harbour.

The heaviest seas run from June to August, during the tornado
season, when the surf is extremely l'ough, the rollers sometimes curl-
ing in five fathoms and breaking in three to four. Trade winds
are responsible for great inconvenience to shipping all along the
West Coast. Some people avow that this part of the world is
simply a black man's country, and should be left to them, as the
white man is too much handicapped by the merciless heat, grim
disease, and death which lurk about each beautiful tropical spot.

In Nigeria there is great wealth, and in order to obtain this lives
are bound to be sacrificed. Yet one meets officials who have lived
in the country twenty-five years, and are still fine men. There
appears to be a sort of luck which governs lives. The old stagers
of the colony know how to live to enjoy good health ; while a
young official or trader — and the country is made up principally
of these — arrives at the Coast port, where, in spite of care exer-
cised, he is stricken with fever and dies. This although every
precaution is used in providing hospitals and Government doctors.

343

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Disease works so qiiickly here — that is the horror of the whole
thing. One plunges into eternity so suddenly ! You may meet
an official at eight in the morning ; he talks to you, is most interest-
ing, and describes his adventures up-country. You say good-bye,
apparently leaving him in the prime of life and excellent health.

At twelve the same day you meet a friend who mentions sadly :
' Did you not hear that dear So-and-so was taken to hospital
this morning ? They say he is in for a serious blackwater fever
attack." You go on your various engagements, and occasionally
the thought of dear So-and-so crops up in your mind. You offer
a quick and silent prayer for his recovery. At eight o'clock in the
evening, as you are sitting out having a cup of coffee and striking
at nasty mosquitoes, you see a simple funeral cortege passing along.

Your heart seems to stop beating for a moment, and you
touch a friendly arm, asking, " Oh, who is being buried ? " You
are told it is dear So-and-so with whom you had that charm-
ing interview this morning ! The shock is terrible, and yet
think of the thousands who have lived on this coast and up in
the interior, and are now retired and living comfortably on their
pensions in the Motherland.

I reiterate, " It is fate ! "

In life we are all close to death. Think of the accidents in the
very streets of the most hygienic and well-managed city in the
world — London.

As the bar steamer proceeds through the gigantic, incessant
waves which wage an eternal feud with the shores, and up the
Lagos River, the scenery begins to be charming with the brilliant
green trees. Lagos, the capital of Southern Nigeria, has a long
river frontage, and one approaches first the European quarter,
lying to the south. This is all reclaimed ground, the marshy,
unhealthy swamps having been filled in, and an English town
has sprung up.

If one had been blindfolded going up this river and the
bandages removed upon arriving at the outskirts of Lagos, one
would have at once said, " These are Englishmen's homes." They
have tried to make them as much as possible like our Thames-
side cottages. The deep verandahs are draped with bright purple
bougainvillaea, and flamboya trees with scarlet blossoms shade
the gardens. Poinsettias supply cheery mounds of colour, assisted
by brilliant masses of crotons.

344

o
<

•z
o

fcu

A Woman's Winter in Africa

In this quarter are situated Government House, with the race-
course and tennis CDurt at its back ; the Government buildings,
Lagos Club, golf links, polo grounds, and bungalows of officials.
Spreading along the entire river front is the Marina, a smooth,
hard-beaten drive of red soil, which is the fashionable promenade
in the late afternoon when the rays of the sun are going to rest.
On the waterside are craft of all kinds. Good-sized steamers lie
at the wharves, with innumerable dug-outs and canoes, for the
building of which the natives have gained a well-deserved repu-
tation. Fishing-boats, traps, and nets signify the ceaseless in-
dustry of river life.

I fear the beauty of the Marina will be sacrificed to commerce
when the harbour works have been completed, for then monstrous
ships with sirens shrieking will push up the river and anchor,
comparatively speaking, at one's front door !

Lagos Island is connected with the mainland by two bridges,
one with a span of 2000 feet between Lagos and Iddo Island ;
the other joining Iddo with Ebute Netta. The railway terminus
on Iddo Island imports twelve million tons of coal annually, of
which seven hundred are always kept in stock. It is hoped that
one of the future riches of Nigeria will be its coal mines. Every
place has its drawbacks, and one of the most trying things here
is the liarmattan, a strong wind, which blows a perfect gale and
sometimes lasts four or five days. It is prevalent from December
till March.

Eventually the bar steamer drew up at a wharf and I disem-
barked. Mr. Sclioope, agent of the Woermann Linie, whom I had
previously met on my first visit to the roadstead, was there to
meet me with his motor-car. He is one of those men who are
universally liked ; always doing kind actions, which can be
vouched for by many Lagos people.

For myself. I shall ever remember him with gratitude. In the
first place, I had not received a word from friends at home since
I left Swakopmund, and everyone who travels knows how athirst
one is for news. Mr. Sclioope informed me that about twenty
letters were awaiting me at his office five miles away up the river.
He had not brought them out, as he had no idea I should be on
the Steiermark , a cargo-boat. Knowing how anxious I was for this
mail, he actually sent them out to me by special boat — that was
one good deed.

346

agos

Then I had another bother. I had two letters of credit, both on
English banks. Now as these hanks had no exchange or agencies
with the German Colonies, I could not get money in the Cameroons,
and I had used up all my Cook's notes in German South-West.
I advise travellers to take a large supply of Thomas Cook and
Sons' circular notes, as every colony or bank cashes them without
question. On my fust visit to Lagos it was a Sunday and the
banks were closed. It is a dreadful feeling to have an abundance

GOVERNMENT HOUSE FROM THE RACE-TRACK AND TENNIS CLUB.

of money in your power and yet to have the fear you may go short,
as in travel like mine one never knows how much one may require.
Generous Captain Pankow, of the Eleonore Woermann, and Mr.
Schoope both volunteered to lend me the wherewithal ; but
fortunately my wealth just held out. On my second day at
Lagos I was glad to draw plenty and have the satisfaction of
feeling independent. I only mention this in order to show how
essentially vital it is for a traveller to be guarded in case of want.
Mr. Schoope also thoughtfully arranged for me to be a guest at

347

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Government House. I had a letter to friends who were at Govern-
ment House formerly, but they are now stationed at Zungeru,
Northern Nigeria. I also had a letter to the senior Commander
of the port. He, however, had sailed for home a fortnight before
I arrived. Therefore to Mr. Schcope, who acted as guide, philoso-
pher, and friend, I take this opportunity of rendering my most
grateful thanks.

We entered his motor and drove down the beautiful Marina,
shaded by evergreen and tropical trees, to Government House.
Here I received the most genial welcome from A. G. Boyle, Esq.,
cm.g., the Acting Governor, and his sister. His Excellency Sir
Frederick Lugard was in England. It was delightful to rest in
an English household once more.

Government House is a large building, with thick walls and
spacious, well-shaded rooms. The suites are palatial in size. Mine
had an enclosed roomy verandah. In the bedroom was an enor-
mous bedstead draped with mosquito curtains. The furnishings
were in chintz. It was most comfortable, and resembled our
country houses. Best of all, however, was a very nice bath,
with fresh water. After being so long at sea, and bathing in
condensed salt water, this proved a luxury indeed. The water at
Lagos must never be drunk — it is most dangerous.

There is much space around Government House. In the front
are lawns and gardens, on which it was nice to look out in the
morning ; and I could see the dear old Union Jack floating from
the flagstaff near my windows. At the back is the picturesque
race-track, where at certain seasons, especially in December, most
interesting gatherings take place. The Tennis Club is very popular
for tea and afternoon meetings, consisting of a pretty thatched
building with white window-sashes. It is kept in a most up-to-
date manner. I do not remember to have ever appreciated an
English home so much as during my short stay at Government
House.

The end of dinner was an impressive moment, when Mr. Boyle,
with solemn, sedate dignity, rose, a glass of port in his hand,
and toasted " The King."

By Mr. Boyle's permission, his sister, Captain Lawrence, Mr.
Watt, and I had the big motor whenever we wished. The roads
around Lagos are splendid, and it was wonderful speeding through
tropical forests, across bridges, now looking down into still, blue

348

Lagos

lagoons, then again ou1 by the mole watching the turbulenl sea.
Rushing through the congested native quarter, on each side one
sees a hundred things of intense interest.

Lagos is the great market for palm oil, and the excellence of
its quality is acknowledged by everyone. The oil is brought
down the lagoons and from the Ognn River to the railway.
This great industry will constantly increase as the line i- opened
up further into the hinterland in our Colonies, and also in the
German, especially in the Cameroons and Togoland. Nigeria is
blessed in the number of its waterways for tire transport of palm
oil and kernels. The mighty Niger River is also a great aid.

Up in the unbeaten tracks of the interior the native is obliged
to roll casks of this precious oil through forests reeking with every
poisonous growth, where fever and the deadly tsetse-fly threaten
his existence on all sides ; thence to a waterway, where it con-
tinues its course to the port.

When society uses expensive soaps which exhale the aroma of
the Orient, few realize the hundreds of miles of primeval bush
from whence the oil is produced ! Therefore I, who am not
only an observer, but a rate- and tax-payer, regret that a small
portion of the revenue could not be granted to a Colon}' like this
to open up the country by miles of railway.

In some of the inland districts the natives consult their ju-ju.
They are nearly all pagans — and the ju-ju imparts to them
whether the fruit or kernels are ripe, and if the tree is in a fit
condition. Natives invariably leave one of the best bunches of
palm nuts on the tree as an offering. A bunch averages some-
thing like thirty-one pounds in weight, five per cent, of which
will be pure oil. The native regards the King Palm as a fetish,
and is profoundly superstitious, often making sacrifices and prayers
to a fine tree.

The oil which obtains the best price fetches about £30 a ton at
Liverpool. Glycerine in the oil is the most valuable consideration ;
its price is very high at present, and in great demand for the
manufacture of high explosives, vast quantities having been used
in engineering works, especially on the Panama Canal. Crude
glycerine fetches £50 a ton, and the pure as much as £100 a ton.

The oil palm tree (Eloesis Guineenses) serves many purposes.
It is said that the Egyptians first used this oil for embalming
their dead. Palm wine is much liked by the natives, and when first

349

A Woman's Winter in Africa

tapped from the tree is sweet and nun-intoxicating. After fermen-
tation takes place it becomes sour, and quickly overpowers the
brain of the unsophisticated black. The priests who worship the
god If a offer certain kinds of kernels when making sacrifices to the
oracle.

Yeast for raising bread is obtained from the fermentated palm
wine. The tree is prolific in its services; from the fibre
sponges are made. Its shells burn splendidly, and are sometimes

GOVERNMENT OFFICES, LAGOS.

used for surface paving. From the stalks of the palm, whisks,
brooms, and even walking-sticks are manufactured, so it can
honestly be christened a Samaritan of the tree family.

The reason we captured Lagos was to suppress the slave-trade,
which raged in 1851 at this particular spot. King Kosoko liked
to barter blacks, and refused his assistance in suppressing this
evil, whereupon the British expelled him and put his cousin,
Akitoye, to rule. He also did not prove satisfactory, not being
strict enough in putting down the nefarious trade. Then came

350

Lagos

King Docemo, and in 1861 he ceded Lagos to the British, they
allowing him a pension of £1000 a year, which he enjoyed till his
death in 1885.

A descendant of these so-called black kings lives in the Lagos
native town at presenl . receiving a small pension from the ( rovern-
ment.

Lagos is extremely modern, enjoying all the advantages of an
up-to-date town. In 1898 electric light was introduced. There

A NIGERIAN CHIEF WITH HIS RETINUE.

had previously been a great deal of crime in the dark streets, and
the authorities installed electricity as a preventive. Now scarcely
a house is without it, the rate of iod. per unit being charged. The
telegraph has some 4000 miles of wire, and cabling to Great Britain
costs 5s. a word. There are many telephones, but the charges
are heavier than at home ; £15 is demanded per annum.

The European population consists of some 572 males and 36
females, while the natives number from 70,000 to 80,000. As the
town is situated only five degrees north of the Equator, the heat

351

A Woman's Winter in Africa

may be imagined. Climatically it is very moist, with much fever,
and English ladies as a rule do not remain more than six months or
a year. The Government have a cold-storage department, which
is very necessary, while fresh meat, game, and vegetables are
brought out by the Elder Dempster Line steamers. The ice-
making plant can turn out five tons of ice daily, no less
than £1500 being expended on this necessity last year. It
is a great luxury in these stifling countries to have a plentiful
supply of ice.

My thoughts turn to Cape Lopez and other places in the French
Congo, where the heat registers 118 degrees in the shade, and ice
is only obtainable in small quantities — and even then only owing
to the kindness of captains when ships arrive ! The town of Lagos
covers over two square miles, and there are innumerable streets,
especially in the crowded native town. Never shall I forget visiting
the bazaars and walking through the salmagundi of races ! I
have seen these assemblages in most parts of the world, but Lagos,
with 8000 natives — there are quite that number in the streets,
all bent on shopping, pushing and crowding through the narrow
ways— I may say bears the palm among them all. Medleys of
colour greet the eye on every side. Old and young, rich and poor,
are struggling for existence. Beads and cottons cover shining
black skins — a colony of tribes, speaking a multitude of languages
and dialects.

Most of the buildings are in corrugated iron, but some of
bamboo, with palm-thatched roofs, while reed curtains and
matting exclude the inquisitive sun and prevent it damaging
the wares. Yams find constant purchasers, and calabashes are
popular. Bananas, oranges, mangoes, avocado pears, cocoanuts,
sweet potatoes, cassavas, and plantains disappear like magic
as the native housewife and Kroo-boys gather in the stores.

A young black woman strides by, handsome in her style, a scarlet
cloth tied about her head, and evidently she is marvellously proud
of a pair of twin boys a few months old. One of these dear little
piccaninnies is strapped to her breast, and the other sleeps
peacefully at her back, both supported by many yards of green
cotton cloth swathed around the woman, who by adopting this
method of conveying her offspring retains the freedom of her
hands to carry home eatables. Pagan and Mohammedan rub
shoulders ; Hausas, in dark blue, have perhaps travelled from

352

<
1-1

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Timbuctoo and Kano, bringing ivory, silks, and woollen stuff
which they will barter for such European produce as brass, beads,
cotton, and cooking utensils.

From a dirty restaurant the fumes of palm chop, a much-
appreciated native dish, pungently greet the nostrils. All is
pandemonium, and after a time one longs to get out of the
prodigious crowd. I turned up a side street and became fascin-
ated in watching a man building a ju-ju. The figure was of
wood, and in a sitting position. The native had whitewashed this
god, and held a live rooster in his hand, from which he plucked
feather after feather to decorate the head of his pagan god. The
poor rooster protested in plaintive tones, but its feet were tied,
and, since the native held both wings, sacrifice appeared to be
its fate.

The next booth I paused at contained all sorts of ju-ju charms,
dried snake skins, scorpions, small skulls of rats and tiny animals,
sasswood, that deadly poison which the natives frequently use,
also some magic love-philtres. One sees peculiar money exchanged,
where cowries — small shells — 300 to a penny, are slowly counted
out. Sometimes five small brass rods are the equivalent of a two-
shilling piece.

Natives do not like to take coins bearing the head of the late
Queen Victoria and King Edward ; they say that it is bad luck
to portray the features of the dead, and against the wishes of Djin
and ju-ju. An unscrupulous non-believer, knowing to what extent
this superstition is ingrained in the native, realized quite a fortune
by Inning up currency bearing the likeness of the Queen and
King Edward for less than half its value.

Through the labyrinthine windings I strolled, "Imp" pointing
out new curiosities at each step. From a tortuous lane I arrived
amongst a Mohammedan crowd, where my friends were waiting,
and way was made for us to enter the new mosque, which has cost
£8000. We were conducted into the huge house of worship, the
decorations of which were blatantly new in white and gold — so
unlike the refined mellow colourings of famous mosques in Cairo and
that of St. Sophia at Constantinople. Hundreds of men were sitting
and kneeling, forming a circle of devoted reverence, while in the
centre a tall patriarch wearing a green turban and long white
beard was chanting the Koran.

We passed around these worshippers as quietly as possible to

Lagos

view the niche in the wall signifying the direction <>! Mecca. I
think really i1 is a great shame for travellers to invade any place
of religious veneration, whatever the faith of its worshippers.
One mosque, 1 remember, that of Brussa, the ancient capital of
Turkey, has blue-green tiles dating from Persian greatness, and
they arc most lovely in colour. Here, however, the flooring was
composed of ugly, crude green tiles.

On the way out we looked into a Mohammedan school for
boys — girls not being considered worthy of education. I am told
that these young adherents of the Prophet are taught the Koran
chiefly, without much attention to elementary principles. In the
street a man is begging — he is suffering from that horribly dis-
figuring disease elephantiasis, and already his cheek bones have
spread to an alarming extent. He is accompanied by a chim-
panzee, roped to his arm.

We feel that we have viewed this kaleidoscope of colour and
races sufficiently for one morning, and take our places in the
motor-car, which has had a long wait. On arrival at Government
House luncheon is served. In the cool and shady dining-room,
with the punkah's soft and silent breeze and our English comforts,
we feel the contrast with the mobs of seething, noisy humanity
we have just left behind.

155

CHAPTER XLVI I

Lagos

IT AVING tea in the garden, feasting one's eyes on masses of
1 golden trumpet flowers, scarlet acacias for a sunshade,
and crotons of all varieties standing like sentinels, was really
delightful. Comparatively few people in England know that a

marvellously interesting Dur-
bar took place last year at
Kano, in Northern Nigeria,
when all the great Emirs,
chiefs, and rulers assembled
to pay homage to the King
and his representatives. These
chieftains, with their retinues,
travelled from Central Africa,
through unfrequented desert
oases, and towns dating back
to Biblical times.

I was shown a series of
intensely interesting photo-
graphs portraying the mighty
Emirs in flowing robes, their
heads covered with huge tur-
bans, and their faces entirely
veiled. They were mounted
on magnificent horses, capa-
risoned with much pomp and
splendour. The officials agreed
that this extraordinary Dur-
bar scene would never be forgotten, and regretted that their
Majesties could not have witnessed it in person.

Climate in Southern Nigeria being hot and damp, the
clothing one wears is always wet. Silk rots in a short time.
I was told that owing to this disadvantage, the Freemasons,

356

FLAGSTAFF, GOVERNMENT HOUSE.

Lagos

instead of having silk aprons, as is usual, are obliged to resort
to lealh T !

Lagos is not without its suffragettes, Eor a short time ago, five
thousand black women gathered at a mass meeting before the
Government Offices to protest against the order that goats should
be banished from the houses and streets. The Governmeni
proved magnanimous, femininity dispersed contentedly, and Billy
Goat now saunters dauntlessly wherever fancy leads him !

Justice is administered by the Supreme Court, High Court, and
Native Court. The natives demand that a thief who steals yams
should have his hand cut off. This law, however, has not as yet
been enforced ; nevertheless, it must be exceedingly irritating
when a man has thoughtfully laid in his yam store for the winter,
to have another nigger come along and steal his treasure.

Cannibalism exists in Southern Nigeria, but not to the extent it
did some years ago. An officer friend tells me of an old native man
who absolutely swears to the fact that fifty years ago human black
flesh could be bought in the market. He had actually partaken of it !

Lagos is at present quite destitute of hotels. There are several
small inns where blacks find a camp, but no hostelry where
Europeans can put up. In a town so large and important it is
surprising that a defect like this has never been remedied. The
authorities assert that in the immediate future an hotel will be
constructed, for the harbour works are nearing completion. Even
now people passing through the country need accommodation,
and one cannot expect to turn Government House into an hotel.

I visited the cemetery, which covers a large site, and is sadly
full of graves. Pathetically it speaks of the unhealthy climate.
On the other hand, in the part where the natives are buried, as you
read the inscriptions recording ages, you wonder if all you have
heard about the insalubriousness of the place is true. Ninety-nine
seems to have been a favourite age, as many tombstones testify,
while one native actually survived until he was 125 years old — at
least, if accurate knowledge may be obtained from a stone !

Possibly these dead folk found the time of existence too short,
and added on to their age, instead of deducting, as my sex have a
partiality for doing ! These graves are mostly decorated — small
china pigs signifying good luck ; strings of brilliant beads and even
live birds in cages are left there, singing to the dead, reminding
them they are not forgotten.

357

A Woman's Winter in Africa

The native woman dearly loves the heaviest brass jewellery, and
we left the car to bargain for some of these weird affairs. The
cabledike anklets were rather nicely carved, and each weighed
half a pound or so ! The same taste was shown in ponderous rings,
which must be most uncomfortable to wear. There were also spiky
head ornaments for woolly hair. The cloth woven by the women
is very durable, their taste in cottons often producing a fantasti-
cally beautiful effect. They also fashion clay vases, working it
only with their hands into innumerable shapes and sizes. Often
these are used for sacrificial offerings. The making of terrifying
masks, to be worn by dancers during pagan orgies, is another
sphere of woman's work ; and they are marvellously clever in
carving intricate patterns on calabashes.

One peculiarity of Lagos lies in its enormous number of lizards.
They invade every place, running up and down the walls of
Government House as if specially invited. Some are most un-
canny-looking, entirely white, like a resurrected ghost, and
bloated from their feast of insects. Others of the same family
are eighteen inches long, with red heads, blue-striped bodies, and
scarlet tails. Until you become accustomed to their harmless ways
they are not pleasing to encounter. They run over your feet,
darting everywhere in a most startling manner.

The Lagos Hospital is completely up-to-date in every detail,
but, alas ! sometimes sadly overcrowded.

Every religious denomination is represented, from St. Paul's,
the Roman Catholic Cathedral, Holy Rood, and a Colonial Church,
in course of construction, to the Church Missionary Society,
Wesley an, and Baptist, most of which have schools attached, in
which a splendid work is carried on.

Fifty to sixty officers have charge of the troops. The soldiers
turn out smartly uniformed in khaki, with broad red belts and
red or blue caps. They are the Southern Nigeria Regiment and
West African Frontier Force, under Commandant Lieutenant-
Colonel F. H. G. Cunliffe.

One of the sights of Lagos is the church parade every Sunday.
In no place in the world will you see black ladies wear such
wonderful raiment ! They affect laces, bows, silks, big hats with
flower gardens for trimming, long trains, and white glov. s. Nor
are the coloured gentlemen to be outrivalled. They appear in
tall white hats, gay waistcoats, buttonholes, and elaborate foot-

358

Pi
o

a
=

b
o

Pi
t

A Woman's Winter in Africa

g^ar. It must be remembered that many of the dark population
are very wealthy. Lagos is rich, and land most valuable. Many
of these people own property and have big rent-rolls.

The Club is a hne building, and Lagos cocktails a refreshment to
linger over ! There are forty motor-cars in this southern capital ; also
four sailing yachts ; therefore, with most of the sports that English-
men love, men find it not at all a bad place to be quartered in.

For some reason the British Government do not encourage
men to bring their wives out to the West Coast, and the
fact that the man has no proper home makes him constantly
long for leave, in order to see his family. The Germans
adopt an entirely different system, encouraging officials and
colonists to marry and bring thQir wives. In some instances a
bride is given her passage free. Sh? is supposed to remain in the
Colony three years, and there is a certain reduction on her fare
when she returns. If a child is born the Government grant
between two and three pounds a year during its infancy for what
is called " milk money." Germans certainly receive more en-
couragement to colonize.

An English official said to me : ' If only our Government
would give a small pension to our children, enough to educate
them, in case of a man's death, what a relief it would be !
He confided that the cost of living had very much increased during
the last few years at Lagos, and in this climate one must have
certain comforts to enable one to resist fever and the various
illnesses. Having to keep up an establishment at home for wife
and children, a man cannot save anything from his salary. I was
sorrowfully told that every man, unless he had private means, felt
apprehensiveness in case of anything happening to him. 'What will
become of the wife and children ? is an ever-present thought.

The products of Southern Nigeria consist of palm oil, palm kernels,
maize, beans, cocoa, coffee, guinea-corn, indigo dyes, hides, cotton.

' Imp " suggests I have given a very inadequate idea of Lagos,
and humbly I agree with " It." When one knows the vast, in-
numerable interests of the place, and realizes how very little one
can achieve in a few days' visit, no matter how tirelessly one
works, one feels utterly helpless. How can you put in a nutshell
what scientists and men of letters have taken volumes to describe ?

When I left Lagos it was what they call a " good bar " day.
Gratefully I thanked Mr. Boyle, Miss Hodgson, and Captain

360

Lagos

Lawrence for their kindness. Mr. Watt, a guest at Government
House, was travelling to England on the same steamer as myself,
so we embarked on the Government life-boat, Captain Wilson in
charge. Mrs. Wilson does not fear the bar, and came out with us
to sec the big German ship. Commander Cross was also of tin-
party, on his way home.

Although considered fine, the life-boat had to fight valiantly
to conquer those green water-mountains. Occasionally a great

■

I III. Mil. l:< >A I , I. \COS.

wave, more adventurous than the others, would leap over the
prow, then, as if ashamed, gracefully slide off again. So we con-
tinued our way through this buoyant water avenue until the
Eleonore Woermann was reached. In happy contemplation I went
over the wondrous things I had seen and heard at Lagos, one of the
finest gems in our Colonial Crown !

DON'TS BY " IMP"

Don't miss it ; and, whatever you do, devote plenty of time
to the native town. You will never see another like it.

361

CHAPTER XLVI I I
Lome, Togoland

10ME presents a beautiful appearance from the deck of a
.^/ ship, and maintains this impression upon landing, which
is fraught with some difficulties. Unlike many ports, the ship
lies only a short distance from the town. We arrived at about
six in the morning, and I was keen to go ashore, as I knew my
time would be limited to only a few hours. I hurriedly dressed
and went below to ask Mr. Brammer, the chief officer, if I could
land. He answered with his never-failing courtesy, " Oh, yes,"
then shouted to the boys, " Bring that mammy chair." This
arrangement is an open wooden car with two seats that will hold
four people. I don't consider it as safe as the baskets which
I have landed in at Pernambuco and East London, because in
these four or six people stand up, the door is locked, and you are
swung over. It is impossible for you to fall out, whereas in a
' mammy chair " —a name the natives have given it — when you
are raised to a giddy height you might become dizzy and fall.

They tell you not to hold on, for if you do, when the
contrivance bumps and swings round a couple of times your
fingers knock against the iron ship. However, I have never seen
nor heard of this happening. I seated myself, was lowered into
the native boat, and the boys began to paddle.

The first view of Lome gives you a long stretch of shore de-
corated with palms. An uproarious surf is beating on yellow
sands. Screened, and looking like a pearl set in emeralds, lies
the white palace of the Governor of Togoland, about half a mile
from the town. The Grand Duke of Mecklenburg, whom I had
the pleasure of meeting and whose popular praises I have heard
all along the Coast, is at present the able representative of the
Government. Public buildings line the water front, standing out
conspicuously, and church spires rise above the flat, wooded
land.

It was in 1884 that Gustav Nachtigall landed here, and took
362

Lome, Toofoland

peacefu] possession of Togoland in the name of the German
Empire. Natives on this Slave Coasl raised no objections, and
thus 33,659 square miles were added to the Fatherland. Now
the native population comprises some ten millions, and about 400
Germans in residence. A long jetty of iron and concrete runs
out through the huge breakers, making the landing easier than it
was in former times. It is a great pity that along this particular
part of the Coast there are no harbours, for the strong surf is a
natural enemy.

In May, 1911, during a great storm, the first jetty was washed
away, and the present one constructed at an outlay of some
£50,000. It is very high, and has an appearance of solidity. A
tram-road extends its whole length for the transportation of
merchandise. From the surf-boat great waves like green moun-
tains rise before you, and gallantly the little craft meets and
mounts them, only to be confronted by another. The way these
boys, with their paddles, shaped like ducks' feet, manage the
boats is truly marvellous. The iron hook is fixed, and I, in the
"mammy chair," am hauled by a crane to a great height, and
after swinging round several times dumped on to the pier. A
revenue charge of six shillings is asked to go and come.

In walking along to the town one cannot but be struck by the
beauty of the situation. On each side gigantic rollers, rising to
twenty feet high, show pale translucent green ; then the curling
white foam tumbles into whirlpools as it meets its fate on the
shore. To the left is the Custom House and a long line of official
quarters ; on the right the Woermann Linie's extensive factory
and the various trading houses. I walk through the principal
streets, of which there are only two. The roads are of hard-beaten
reddish soil in excellent condition, but there are pavements, and
shady trees continue all the way. Everything is spotlessly clean-
in fact, a model town. An inspector calls at the house frequently,
and if dirty water or filth of any kind is found the culprit is fined
twenty marks.

Another law, which might well be copied, is this: People
landing here without proper credentials must produce £25 in
cash, and also leave enough money with the official for a return
ticket. In time, if the man has proved himself trustworthy
and a desirable citizen, the money is returned to him. Thus aliens
who do not advance the prestige of the country find no foothold at

^f\ ^

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Lome. Would it not be better if we had the same restriction in
England ? It has already been adopted on the Gold Coast.

The tall grey brick tower of the large Presbyterian Church
is a landmark, and I make my way there. Round the church are
pretty grounds full of cacti and aloes. A hammock with awning
is borne past me ; in it lies one of the Fathers of the Catholic
Church, who is being carried down to take the ship, looking very
pale and ill. Alas ! he was not destined to reach his native land,
but was buried at sea. There is much blackwater fever, sleeping-
sickness, and leprosy in this land, as there is all along the Coast.

The Kaiserhof Hotel, whose American bar is renowned, seemed
a pleasant enough hostel to stay in. I proceeded to the market,
a large open square, beautifully shaded. Cinder the trees Togo
women are squatting, their small piles of produce in front of
them. It is the usual sale of beads, cotton cloth, palm nuts, seeds,
guavas, onions, chillies, cereals, cowries (shell money), dried
locusts, small monkeys, dates, cassava, manioc, ancient fish,
and unhealthy-looking tomatoes. The women are mostly fat,
and wear bright turbans of calico or silk handkerchiefs. Gold
beads and bangles are plentiful, and they have blue cotton in a
variety of shades and patterns wrapped around them ; they also
wear heavy anklets of brass. The children run about nude, with
perhaps only a necklace to identify them.

A Catholic Church and Mission occupy a large area. There
are two church spires, and a clock of antiquated appearance.
Further on I paused to admire a dark granite monument erected
to the memory of Prince Bismarck, this being encircled by crotons
and flowering shrubs. The Bank of German West Africa, erected
in 1911, is a fine, imposing building — in fact, all the houses, com-
mercial and private, struck me as being most artistic, and thought-
fully constructed for the climate and suitable for the beauty of
this place.

In the Kohler Platz a small park has been attempted, and
through all the streets palms and flowering acacias were profusely
shading walks and houses. The Germans are very particular
on the health question, and the Queen Charlotte Hospital is the
perfection of hygienic construction. One tried to contrast Lome
with Lagos, but there is no comparison. Lagos is so much larger.
At Lome the traders, about fourteen firms, are all Germans with
the exception of two or three, and they have immense warehouses.

064

Lome, Togoland

As you glance in at their shops everything is neatly arranged and
most spacious.

I asked some Englishman why Lagos was so huddled, and
he explained that property was of much more value there than
in Togo. He also quoted the fact that recently one small
house in a good trading locality was sold for £1800, and that
quite an ordinary native place. Lagos being the biggest com-
mercial centre of the West Coast, land is expensive.

There are two lines of railways at Lome1, one of which goes

'I 5

LOME, TOGOLAND.

some 120 miles into the interior, where one finds a hilly
country, and it is proposed to proceed with it as far north as
Basari. Togoland has comparatively little sea-coast (I believe
only thirty-five miles). It is rather sandwiched in between
Dahomey and the Gold Coast. Exports are palm oil, kernels,
rubber, maize, raw cotton, ivory, cocoa, and copra.

Every man above sixteen years of age must pay a tax of six
shillings a year or work twelve days for the Government, and their
labour is generally utilized in making roads. Consequently, in the

365

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Cameroons and Togoland good roads may be found all over the
country, thus making it very much easier for carriers to bring the
produce to the Coast.

At Basari large plantations have been raised, the growth of the
oil palm being rapid. In the near future rich results may be
expected, as a tree will begin bearing fruit in its fifth year.
There are plantations of cocoa palm and sasswood, the latter
largely used in the construction of bridges ; also plantations of
teak, evergreens, and mahogany — the Department of Forestry
being considered especially commendable.

In walking along the streets of Lome the natives salute you,
and every white man gracefully raises his helmet. When you are
alone in a strange country this politeness is much appreciated.

Mohammedans form the best class of natives, and the pagans
lead their own life, steeped in fetishism. One of their legends is
that in the beginning of the world all men were born black ;
then a great ju-ju appeared, and commanded the men to follow
him across a wide, rushing river. Many jumped into the water
and followed him. When they arrived on the other side the
obedient and faithful were white, and were ever after warriors of
the great ju-ju. The cowards who remained behind retained their
black skins, and have never been given another chance to change
them. My only regret was that I could not see more of Tcgoland,
since I was so favourably impressed with Lome.

The whole land is flat, treed, and uninteresting along the coast,
with the eternal beating of the breakers on its shore. Even from
Lome you see a white-roofed building, and on the other side
begins the Gold Coast, which continues the same scenery as one
proceeds.

" Imp " says to travellers, " Go ashore and see Lome, even
if it be only for an hour."

366

CHAPTER X L I X
Accra

WE pause for an hour or so at Ouitta, again at Addah, and
early next morning touch at Accra, the capital of the
Gold Coast and residence of the Governor. This Coast has ex-
perienced many vicissitudes in its history, beginning in 1482
with the Portuguese. In 1637 arrived the Dutch, who made war
and drove the Portuguese out. In the seventeenth century the
Swedes came and built forts, then the Danes for a time held
possession. The Brandenburgers established a footing, but in
1720 they made up their minds that the place was not worth
keeping, and it fell back into the hands of the Dutch once more.
Englishmen thought they would like a settlement here, to which
the Dutch objected and drove us out. We, not relishing such
treatment, returned for revenge, and Captain Holmes headed an
expedition which captured Cape Coast and all the other forts.
Again there was a shuffling of political cards, when De Ruytei
fought and obtained possession of every fort with the exception
of Cape Coast; after much strife for a card which at that time
seemed to be of small value, Great Britain eventually took com-
plete possession in 1872.

At Accra the surf was more boisterous than ever, and getting
ashore very difficult. The ship is anchored quite two miles out,
and hills of green billows rise and fall, while on the shore the
foam lies in a seething mass.

There has been a serious outbreak of yellow fever here,
and Lady Clifford, wife of the Governor, was invalided home ;
several others at Government House have also had bad
attacks.

Out come the boats, rearing and plunging and banging as they
swing against our ship's side. Now they lose an oar overboard ;
out jumps a native instantly, being as much at home in the water
as out of it. They sit six or eight on the edge of the boat, paddling
with their queer-shaped duck-leg oars, singing, shouting, howling

367

A Woman's Winter in Africa

for passengers and cargo. The "mammy chair" is particularly
dangerous to-day !

Accra has a long coast line with rising hills, and a big place
with a large native settlement at one end — the Governor's house
at the other extreme. A hundred Europeans and twenty ladies
make their home here. There is no electric light at present,
though waterworks are being built, and in a short time it is in-
tended to lay pipes conducting it to the houses. A technical
institute belonging to the Government is doing very good work,
teaching native boys engineering, blacksmithing, and all kinds of
trades. Accra supplies the marine carpenters for Lagos. They
bring their wives, and their contract is for three years. If they
return, for encouragement they receive one-third of their salary
during absence. Their wives, gorgeous, dusky women, wear high
turbans, coloured skirts, and a good deal of gold jewellery.
The Accra native jewellers have long been noted for the excellent
and artistic work which they beat out of golden sovereigns.

Many of the carpenters' wives were adorned with really handsome
chains. I wished to buy some, but had no time for a jeweller to
make me anything. The roads are fair, and one also sees a few
motor-cars and motor-trolleys for transport of produce. The
architecture is never attractive, Accra not being a pretty place
by any means. Our own coast towns, which resemble each other
so closely, we have not endeavoured to lay with the same care for
beauty as the Germans. Our idea has been simply trade and
commerce. In the official part there are some well-designed
bungalows, but these are some distance out at Victoriaburg.

The Accra races are a great social event ; they take place
about Christmas-time, and many visitors attend from our nearest
colonies, besides people who come from up-country. They have
capital polo-ponies, and polo is much indulged in ; also cricket,
and they have a nine-hole golf course. Trust an Englishman
to bring his sports with him ! There is no hotel, only a very
poor place frecmented by natives.

The harbour works are extending the iron and concrete jetty,
which up to now has not been as successful a protection as one
would wish. The heavy surf piles up sand-bars, and constant
dredging is necessary. The railway runs some fifty miles up to
Nangonese Goosi, and is successfully tapping the country for
thousands of tons of cocoa a year.

7,68

Accra

From Addah great quantities of cocoa arc being exported ; and
in the open grass country near by, on the rich virgin soil, exten-
sive cocoa plantations are being established, which will eventually
yield gigantic harvests. Horses can live at Accra, as the tsetse-fly

NATIVES.

is seldom met with ; therefore riding and driving make pleasant
pastimes. Accra and Seccondee are great rivals at present. Sec-
condee leads commercially, as its railway brings the gold down
from the interior ; but with the increasing of the cocoa export
Seccondee may well be jealous of Accra.

2 A

569

CHAPTER L
Seccondee

A DEEP bend in a thickly wooded coast of rising hills, and
Seccondee comes into view. Here, in addition to its being
late in the afternoon, breakers are very bad indeed. The morning
is far the best time to land, and on the distant rocks spray creates
geysers of some thirty feet — they would be lovely if one were not
obliged to go through them with the certainty of getting wet !

Seccondee has been a renowned place for wrecks, and near the
lighthouse, two miles distant, the masts of a big collier are a sad
reminder of the treachery of submerged rocks. In the open
roadstead lie three Elder Dempster steamers, swaying with th :
heavy swell, and a relic of old times in the shape of a sailing ship. The
Kroo boys come racing out, and several passengers sitting on wicker
chairs in the big surf-boats are looking eagerly to the ship.

After the terrible ordeal of getting ashore one wanders about, but
there is really little to see. Messrs. Elder Dempster and Co. have
an hotel here, which is at present closed ; but Allen's Hotel, kept by
Mr. and Mrs. Allen, is quite a comfortable abode. " Akabo ! " the
natives greet you, meaning welcome. There is a hospital for
Europeans and also one for natives. The bungalows, with deep
overhanging roofs, are closely grouped, and on a rather high
hill the Government headquarters, and the official and railway
people's houses. The shore boasts a huge native settlement.

Seccondee is the terminus of the railway, and so all the gold from
the famous mines is shipped home from here ; also rubber and
palm oil. It is the largest port on the Gold Coast, and the heat is
stifling ; one must be wary of fever. The population comprises
perhaps 150 men and a dozen ladies, besides 1000 or more natives.
All the country about is hilly and well wooded, and mahogany of
fine quality abounds. At Axim, a neighbouring town, last year
they shipped 30,000 logs, which would be the equivalent of 10,000
trees — three logs usually run to one tree. The very best mahogany,
however, comes down the Tano River, shipped from Half Assine,

3/0

Scccondee

the most westerly port of the Gold Coast. It is finely figured and
in great demand for veneering purposes — a beautiful wood indeed.
To give one an idea of the value of this particular mahogany,
one tree, consisting of three logs, was sold last yearal the auction
sales of Liverpool for £2500. The bottom log, measuring 4 feel
square and 36 inches in length, of splendid marking, fetched
£1250. In the Cameroons 1 have heard of one tree which was
sold for £1000. it was also heavily insured. This seems an

if m

SECCONDEE.

enormous price, but it must be remembered these monarehs of
the forest have taken over two hundred years to mature to this
condition of perfection.

The colour of this decorative wood is a light reddish golden-
brown in its natural state, while the markings resemble watered
silk. Seccondee has an English club, where the menfolk for-
gather. What a good idea it is to establish clubs, as we do in
most of our possessions, where a man, weary with the tiresomeness

37i

A Woman's Winter in Africa

of hundreds of miles of bush travel, can stretch his legs in comfort-
able chairs and order his favourite W. & S. !

In Seccondee the native and European quarters are separate.
This is as it should be, because between the native idea of hygiene
and ours a great gulf stretches, and an epidemic of yellow fever
or other pestilent disease could be isolated, thus checking it in
its early stages.

The working factories of the Seccondee-Coomassie Railway
are the principal sight. Every traveller should pay a visit to this
model and practical establishment. The train for Coomassie
leaves at 8 a.m. and arrives at 6 p.m. In the old days it took
ten to twelve days of hard travelling to reach the coast.

With the rich goldfields of the interior and their continual success-
ful development there is little doubt they will prove an Eldorado
in the future. I cannot, however, write of these mines, not having
seen them. We at home realize little of their working except
through the financial columns of the newspapers. I am told that
at the Prestea Mine some 180 white men, mostly Australian and
South African, are employed, and over 2000 blacks. TheTaquah,
Abosso, and Abontiakoon are the best mines on the banket.

After leaving Seccondee and covering a few miles, one encounters
dense jungle. In the northern territory, near Wa and Lorha,
it is said that a considerable quantity of gold may be found ;
but owing to the non-existence of railways, herds of elephants,
hippopotami, lions, leopards, and antelopes still claim the land
as their own.

Plenty of quartz has been discovered in the north, but with
such drawbacks as lack of water, the desert, and expensive
transport, little headway is possible in opening up the resources
of the country. I may add that in this north-west portion of
the hinterland the climate is comparatively healthy ; in fact,
quite a white man's country. From an officer who has served a
long time here, I gather that the natives breed fine Arab ponies,
which are noted for their beauty and speed. There is plenty of
beef, a whole carcase costing only £3, while threepence a pound
is charged for mutton. A large chicken or guinea-fowl may also
be purchased for threepence. This is in the centre of a fine
grazing country.

The native poisons his arrows by sticking them into the rotten
carcases of sheep or birds, and when the arrow drops out from

372

o
u

Id
—

A Woman's Winter in Africa

the decayed flesh they consider enough venom has adhered to
ensure blood-poisoning. This officer also showed me a most
interesting card of introduction, or passport, from a powerful
Hausa chief at Wa. It was written in a sort of Arabic character,
with strange and weird designs of moons and stars in crude
colours. This vouched for the officer's kindness to the people of
Islam, and begged them to aid him in all his undertakings.

These Ashanti people have not been especially kind to us,
for we have already had three wars with their pagan tribes.
Now all is peace, and the fierce Ashanti has at last sheathed his
sword. It will be remembered that it was in the Ashanti war of
1885-6 that H.S.H. Prince Henry of Battenberg lost his life, to
the deep regret of our nation. These savages have been merci-
less in war. The first trouble was in 1874, the second in 1885-6,
and the last in 1900, when we had ten months of fighting and lost
many precious lives.

Pages have been written about the besiegement of Gover-
nor Sir F. and Lady Hodgson and a small company of brave
English at Coomassie. The chiefs drove them into the fort
with the distinct understanding that, unless the Governor gave
them their way, they would be held captives until, by per-
sistent thirst and hunger, they died or were obliged to give
in. These pagans possessed modern guns, and one wonders how
they had obtained them. After six weeks of confinement, with
scarcely anything to maintain life except stale water and a few
dry biscuits, those of that small, dauntless army who were able
to stand managed to escape at night, and arduously worked their
way through mangrove swamps, dense forests, and waterways.
After a fortnight's march these gallant souls eventually reached
the protection of Cape Coast Castle. Now peace and plenty
reign in Ashantiland.

This afternoon, when the ship paused before Cape Coast Castle
to pick up passengers, I did not go ashore, as I was tired of the
surf and " mammy chair." I leaned upon the taffrail, regretting
I could not land. The blazing sunshine lit up the remnants of the
old fort, which is picturesquely perched on a hill. Mental pic-
tures of past and present flitted across memory's pages ; and
as if in pageant I seemed to see the conquests and defeats since
the fourteenth century re-enacted once more in the ancient Fort of
Cape Coast Castle.

374

CHAPTER LI

Grand Bassam Ivory Coast

THIS port falsities its name, for there is nothing "grand'
about it ! On the contrary, groups of inferior-looking build-
ings extend along a yellow line of sand for perhaps a mile, facing
the frolicsome ebullitions of the surf. The beach itself faces some
unattractive go-downs and factories. This picture is backed by
tall trees and deep woodland, with still lagoons and mangrove
swamps, where, daily, mosquitoes breed in millions as the stars
in the firmament ! Grand Bassam is notorious for being the first
place on the West Coast to develop that dreaded illness yellow
fever, doubtless brought from South America in the exchange of
slaves. It still maintains its evil reputation, and is regarded as
one of the most unhealthy places.

Fortunes acquired here are indeed won under the greatest
difficulties. Looking at the brilliant green forests of the tropics,
which appear ideal in loveliness, one cannot imagine that there
is deadlv poison in the very air one breathes. The miasma rises
from the damp earth, and gradually one is laid low by fever,
sleeping-sickness, dysentery, and various other serious ailments.
Mr. B. is not well to-day. In many cases the victim's bones are
committed to earth after one day's illness.

All along this coast, and at every stopping-place, our ship halts
—the steam siren calls, and across the breakers come rolling the
surf-boats. We on deck take our glasses to look for new arrivals,
and invariably some of them are very ill. Even those apparently
all right look thin, pallid, and weary. I have seen so many of
these sufferers that I feel like hating the Gold and Ivory Coasts,
for these two, as far as I have been able to judge, hold the record
for destroying the health of brave men.

One gentleman was brought on at Addah, suffering from
heart trouble. Obviously he was getting away just in time,
for his complexion was like that of an already dead man, and
his weakness really pitiful. It is just the same at Accra,

375

A Woman's Winter in Africa

where at this moment yellow fever is raging. At picturesque
Cape Coast Castle, Seccondee, and Axim, the one thought
of the people is to have served their time on this unhealthy
coast. Their great joy and contentment come when they
finally board a clean ship, settle down in deck chairs, and are
fanned by the health-giving, invigorating sea breeze. Their food
—or " chop " — is then carefully thought out for them ; within
reach is an electric bell, which they have only to press and de-
licious lemon squashes, whiskey-and-sodas, or whatever beverage
they affect is immediatelv forthcoming. A small iceberg gives
refreshment to the heated palate.

Only those who have suffered that unquenchable thirst of the
tropics can appreciate, after some weary march through dust and
heat without the absolutely necessary liquid, the delight of glueing
one's lips to a glass and draining every drop. The God of Chance
also plays a big part in life here. Continually from German South-
West Africa, where the climate on the whole is healthy, Gaboon,
French Congo, and the Cameroons, you meet men who have lived
thirty years in these colonies and are yet perfectly strong. They
have had a little fever, perhaps, at first, but do not suffer now.
Then, on the other hand, you hear of someone who has only
arrived a month or so from home, stricken, and in a few days dead.

I to a certain extent believe in luck; but the whole country gives
me a creepy feeling of uncertainty. From morn till eve one never
knows what may attack one. A friend of mine was long in the
unfrequented bush of the Camercons. For twenty-five years he was
quite fit and strong. He visited his family in Germany every
three years. A few months ago he travelled up to the new territory
just given up by the French to the Germans for the concession
in Morocco. He felt a sting on his ear — but thought nothing more
about it. Fortunately he had finished his undertaking, and was
on his march back to the coast. Alas ! that small sharp sting
was from the deadly tsetse-fly ! He began to feel feverish and
tired. Upon arriving at Kribi he thought it was weak of him to
consult a doctor, but fortunately did so. The tsetse-fly had done
its demon work only too well, his blood being impregnated with
the fatal germs. Anti-toxin was freely administered, and he was
invalided home at once. Taking the cure immediately as he did
he may have the good fortune to recover — but I scarcely dare to
hope.

376

Grand Bassam- -Ivory Coast

Grand Bassam exports mahogany, ebony, ivory, and skins.
The French have been very prolific with the railways over their
vast possessions in Africa. When you look on the map and see
the Great Desert, Senegal, French Guinea, Ivory Coast, Dahomey,
and right up to Lake Chad, yon realize its immensity. They have
a most ambitions scheme for linking the entire territory by means
of railwav and river service to Timbuctoo, also across the Sahara
to North Africa. The rivers Senegal and Niger, helped by rail-
ways, already conduct the traveller to Timbuctoo.

At Grand Bassam the clusters of deeply-roofed houses look a?
if they dare not raise their heads in the merciless sun. A few white
Government buildings are dotted about, and at one end of the
town are the palm-thatched dwellings of the natives. Three
steamers lie off the jetty. Although I like to see and verify for
myself, I have no great desire to go on shore. There are the
same palms, natives, and general arrangements that one meets
all along the coast ; and at this port they have not even raised
the tricolour on their flagstaff !

The native population seems to be constantly travelling, and
it was amusing to watch the " black ladies " in all their finery
seating themselves in the " mammy chair," their " collaterals "
around them. These women were naked to the waist, and their
skirts consisted of bright cotton draped around them. In most
cases a dear little naked black baby was tied fast to their backs.
These children never cry. They wear a necklace around their
necks, and they stare at you with beautiful soft dark eyes. I am
always anxious lest the chair should swing around and dasli the
baby to bits on its mother's back ; but up to now I have never
witnessed an accident. These women all have a fowl, which they
treat as though already dead, while their belongings are mostly
packed in large brass bowls. A turban, quite half a yard above
their heads, adds a striking touch to the general effect.

The French, unlike the Germans and English, do not favour
free trade, and keep their colonies, comparatively, to themselves.

At Assinie, a little to the east, much mahogany and many
tusks from the north are shipped. There is not so great a supply
of ivory as in former days ; however, in the huge expanse from
the Ivory Coast to French Guinea herds of elephants still roam,
and sport for the hunter is said to be superb.

377

CHAPTER LII

Liberia

EARLY on the morning of May 18th we anchor close to Mon-
rovia, capital of the Republic of Liberia. From the sea,
several green hills and the clustered town of Monrovia present
a more pleasant aspect than upon landing. A few years ago there
was no cable, Liberia being left isolated by the world ; now,
however, they have one, and two wireless spires which break
the line of the horizon up the hillside. In the harbour you view
the fleet, consisting of one gunboat rather dirty and badly needing
a renewal of white paint. It is obvious that this craft began
life as a smart yacht, hut has degenerated with the passing years.
It will evidently spend the remainder of its existence rocking off
the coast of this Negro Republic !

The surf here is not nearly so dangerous as on the Gold and
Ivory Coasts. High, green-clad hills give a kind of shelter,
although to land you must go round for some distance, across
the bar. and enter by the mouth of the St. Paul River, which is
navigable for some thirty miles, until stopped by falls.

Little is known of the interior, which is held by wild bushmen
natives. The district on the coast occupied by these American
negroes only extends a few kilometres ; there are few roads, and
the dense forests are almost impregnable, carriers bringing down
rubber and coffee for export. Very little prospecting has been
done. A few months ago some prospectors wished to go through
the country, but the natives would not permit them, and there
was much trouble over the question. A gunboat entered the
waters as a reminder that Liberia did not rule the world.

The President has little power, and the whole town is ram-
shackle, dirty, and dilapidated. The American Consul, Mr. Cram,
must be the most important man in the country. I had a letter of
introduction to him, kindly given me by genial Mr. Haygood,
American Vice-Consul at Cape Town. It might have been my
fate to remain at Monrovia for two weeks if I had not been fortu-

378

Liberia

nate enough to get the Steiermark from Swakopmund. It is

difficult to find ships which conned between Swakopmund and the
Cameroons, but once you gel in touch with the main Cameroon
Line you are all right. At one time the agents told me my easiest
way would be to get a cargo-boat from German South-West
Africa direct to Monrovia and then work back along the coast
eastward. When I see the town and accommodation available
I am grateful that I was not obliged to stay in the negro capital.

For the benefit of travellers who may follow in my footprints,
let me advise them to start the West Coast first, then continue
to the East. It is advisable to take the Woermann Linie or the
Elder Dempster steamers on the way out, as they bring imports
which must be landed ; consequently they often stay in a port two
and three days, during which one has ample time to go ashore
and see the towns. Again, live on your excellent ship, which
is preferable to staying in these most primitive hotels — many
places boasting of none.

Up to now the West Coast has not allured tourists, and although
people are most hospitable one does not like to encroach too
much on their limited resources. Liberia is indeed the country
for the enterprising lady writer, who can sow her seeds of literary
genius on virgin soil. Negroes, wild bush cannibals, the heat of
the tropics, and jungle woodland need a truly indomitable spirit
to find out their vast and hidden secrets.

Upon landing one penetrates through a city of thatched mud
huts to Water Street, the principal thoroughfare. There is nothing
interesting to see. The houses are unpretentious, with the usual
verandah. As the negro likes religion, Monrovia is blessed with
numerous churches. Houses, built in brick with white trimmings
and green shutters, have reed curtains to keep out the heat.
There are very few psople in the streets, which in some places
are overgrown with grass. A few Americans live here, and some
German traders form the European population. We have a
Consul — I think it is Major Baldwin — and there is also the German
representative.

About 10,000 negroes inhabit the coast-line, the tribes of
Liberia numbering not far short of two million. Most people
know why this dark republic was founded. When the American
Government abolished slavery they were in a quandary what
to do with such vast numbers of homeless black people. It

379

A Woman's Winter in Africa

was a serious problem. A way out of the difficult position was
suggested by removing them to Africa, the land they had come
from. Consequently, in 1821 the Americans founded this republic
for them, and have to a certain extent protected their interests.
They govern themselves in a crude way, often breaking out into
local political disputes during Presidential elections.

Assassinations and revolutions are frequent occurrences. The
Executive Mansion is a most modest structure of brick, with double
verandahs, the flag, however, being a huge affair. Their coat-of-
arms represents a sunset ; a dark sailing-ship silhouetted against
its radiance ; and a palm tree, all of which welcome one on shore.
Their motto is "The love of liberty brought us here." Wealthy
Liberians wear European clothes — frock coats and tall hats. The
women one meets in the streets have a wonderful variety of
bright handkerchiefs, which they arrange on their heads in most
fantastic knots and bows, producing weird upstanding effects ;
but some of them are quite pretty.

I am told that a white man engaged in trade at Monrovia
must live with a black woman if he wishes to be successful in
business. This fact I cannot vouch for. Also that the blacks
run into you in the streets, jostling you and resenting your nation-
ality— but this I did not find to be the case. There is always the
horrible fear that the ship will sail away and leave you, especially
when you hear her siren summons. It makes one too nervous to
do much sightseeing !

A large market was not particularly interesting ; only com-
pounded of the usual things. The bananas looked nice ; while
some nauseating fish and rice balls, called foo-fco, were in great
demand, but presented a decidedly unattractive appearance
to me.

Upon returning to the ship I found it surrounded by native
log dug-outs, in which were seated women attired in most gorgeous
colours, wearing beads and butterfly-shaped handkerchief head-
dresses. They were clapping their hands, laughing, and shouting,
making a din absolutely deafening.

As our crew boys recognized wives and sweethearts roars of
lusty voices welcomed them. Quite a smart Customs steam launch
was waiting. The same crew boys have been paid and discharged
until the next voyage, so they scramble down the sides on ropes
and ladders to reach the waiting boat below. Some jump over-

380

A NATIVE CHIEF,

A Woman's Winter in Africa

board, and the}7 are almost crazy with delight at being reunited
with their friends, especially as they all have money to spend.

Now the boats are quite full, and they paddle away, with
deafening shouts of Hip ! Hip ! Hooray ! Hoch ! Hoch ! Hurrah !
the ship glides on, the noise abating as the distance increases.
We passengers, now the excitement is over, go down to breakfast.
Many have bought stamps ; these form a considerable revenue
for the republic, as they are constantly changing them. Although
of no particular value, they are bright in colour and make interest-
ing souvenirs for friends at home.

" Imp's " advice : Beware of Monrovia.

382

CHAPTER L 1 1 1

Freetown, Sierra Leone

THE stewardess brings me coffee at 5 a.m. It is almost dark,
but as I look out of the port I am confronted with high
sombre mountains. This is the coast of Sierra Leone, which is
known as the " White Man's Grave." It is bordered by French

FREETOWN, SIERRA LEONE.

Guinea and Liberia. As a rule I do not like this rising at dawn,
but if a traveller is enthusiastic about seeing things, and only
three hours at the most are vouchsafed for exploring Freetown,
one has to do one's best.

Freetown from the sea gives a charming effect. The long line

383

A Woman's Winter in Africa

of mountains make an imposing show. The highest peak, Lion
Mountain, rising from a bed of mist, overlooks the town. Trees
everywhere add to its attractiveness, and one doubts the evil
reputation the country has gained from a health standpoint.

The town itself is large, and from each lower ridge and moun-
tain flank rise villages, forts, barracks, hospitals, and defence
establishments of all kinds. This port being a gateway to West
Africa, it fairly bristles with masked batteries, 12-inch guns, huge
coal sheds — more important than all during war — searchlights,
and the entire paraphernalia of protection for this our oldest
colony in West Africa, dating from 1788.

The Protectorate comprises 27,000 square miles. Freetown
alone possesses more than 35,000 inhabitants, of which about 500
are Europeans. The large bay and harbour are excellent spots for
landing. It is such a relief to get away from the appalling surf
farther down on the coast. Our ship moors only a quarter of a
mile from the town, and there are plenty of small boats alongside,
each eager for passengers to go ashore. The fare is one shilling a
head.

(Don't pay your boy until he lands you back on the steamer.
He naturally expects a small tip for waiting.)

I being out on deck so early many of the menfolk had not
dressed, and pyjamas and dressing-gowns were the reigning
fashion. I might have made a good fashion article by describing
some of them. Everyone who has lived in the tropics knows to
what condition a wardrobe arrives. The heat and dampness rot
and destroy every material. Silk linings become strings. Many
of us compare rents, and wonder if our costumes will last until
we reach England !

An officer shows a ragged lining to his silk dinner jacket ;
another has lost one black bow off his pumps ; each one is
in some predicament or other. We christen them our honour-
able rags, as they are really legitimately worn out by honest
sweat and toil. One terrible thought has occurred to us as
we near England. The days become longer, and the twilight
is merciless as regards worn-out clothes ! Someone suggested we
should obviate showing our shabbiness by asking that the dinner-
hour be put back from seven, our usual time, to eight ; but
although a ragged lot we keep up prestige and dress for dinner !

Along the front, and built into the sea, are the go-downs, Govern-

384

Freetown, Sierra Leone

ment supplies, and coal. Freetown is most important as a coal-
ing station, and large supplies are guarded. 1 go ashore with a
friend, after negotiating with the Customs people. It is Sunday
morning, and most of the inhabitants are not yet up. We walk
along the wide red road, a little grass growing on each side. It
has rained all night, and the way is muddy, with great pools of
water lying about.

From St. George's Cathedral ring out beautifully attuned

FREETOWN.

chimes. This is the most interesting church ; its large grey
brick square tower and clock have an ancient and picturesque
appearance. I should judge it has been destroyed and added on
to at various periods, as there is no uniformity in its architec-
ture. It is shaded by a splendid mango tree.

In all parts of the town are beautiful flowering trees and shrubs,
but it is not pretty, or well-kept, being full of ramshackle, dilapi-
dated houses, built of wood and porous ironstone, of which there is
plenty. Many of these houses were so rickety they looked as if a

2 B 385

A Woman's Winter in Africa

push would send them over. Corrugated iron is in strong force.
Some sheets appear to be thrown on to the houses, and only
remain there by the clemency of one nail. Verandahs appear
terribly feeble. The houses are of all colours, and the negro taste
has not been restricted in Howe Street. I remarked one scarlet
house with brilliant ultramarine decorations.

The ladies who were about to attend church were gowned as
only black people can be — white dresses with lace ; cotton frocks
in which green and orange, cleverly combined with stripes of crude
blue, were in symphonies of rainbow hues. The rich black ladies
sometimes send to Paris and London for their gowns. They were
conscious of looking well ; most were Creoles and walked proudly.
Many wore what the Americans call peekaboo blouses, and their dark
skins made a good background to show up the distinctive patterns.

' Good morning, missus," they saluted. ' You go church — St.
George's ? "

We had a native boy to take us around, and when we passed
a large school in the construction stage of ferruginous sandstone
he explained, " Him house broke," meaning that the school was
not yet finished. On board ship there were four or five missionaries,
and they were waiting for a boat. Our boy, pointing to them,
designated the group as " Dem Jesus Christ crew."

I was disappointed not to visit the market, but of course this
was closed. I am told it is very interesting, and consists of a long
stone building. We passed it, and remarked stacks of enormous
thick calabashes, which had come down from Dakkar and were to
be sold to-morrow. The Custom House building is rather fine, in
native stone with a bright red roof, and run on the same lines as
that in London.

I think I have never seen so many native police — they are all
over the place. They wear khaki uniforms. One thing I did not
like to see, although I appreciate their usefulness, is the vultures.
Freetown has hundreds of them. They sit high on the cocoanut
palms, roost on the roofs of houses, and gangs of them calmly
walk through the streets tame and unmolested.

The Royal Hospital had a most antiquated air, especially the
outside gate, upon which a carving in stone tells you something
about being rescued from slavery by British philanthropy, and a
date which I could not quite make out. There are several other
hospitals and sanatoria situated on the higher ridges, surrounded by

386

Freetown, Sierra Leone

foliage. Bananas, breadfruit trees, avocado pears, scarlel a< acias,
and mangoes with reddish fruit are in abundance ; also wild cherry
trees in blossom- all help to cover the hobbledehoy architecture.
We came across a truly magnificent cotton tree I have never
seen a finer. Minutely we examined the enormous buttresses
of its roots. Freetown may well be proud of this tree, which is
close to the new official offices now in the course of construction.
A light narrow-gauge railway rims through the town, and this
conducts one to Wilberforce, two and a half miles away, prettily

MAIN S I REET, FREE TOWN,

laid out upon a wooded ridge, where reside most of the officials
and Europeans. The dark red roofs are just visible in the distance.
I walked to Government House, which is of wood and stone,
painted grey — not at all a pretentious abode. At the back are
beautiful gardens full of gay crotons and tropical flowers and bright
red lilies ; there were hundreds of these, which 1 admired very
much. Behind are the Public Gardens, with beautiful specimens
of both trees and flowers — bougainvillaea, a red frangipanni,
yellow hibiscus, and the whole family of blossoms rejoicing in the

387

A Woman's Winter in Africa

heat. Freetown is very well garrisoned. A battalion of the West
African Regiment, one of the West Indian, two Army Service
Corps, and a detachment of Royal Engineers are mostly quartered
along the ridge and on the mountain side. The shore farther
down the Bay boasts a whole hamlet of mushroom-shaped houses,
and gives a curious effect. These are for the black gunners, each
having his separate hut. They are said to be of indomitable
courage. Altogether Freetown recalls Barbados, only it is not
so beautiful. The only conveyance is the hammock, with an
awning overhead, which is carried by either two or four men.
I met several officers, one from Government House, being carried
about in this manner. The uniform of the carriers was khaki with
broad scarlet epaulettes. I noticed a black man being conducted
through the streets in a sort of hammock chair, and was informed
he was a sanitary inspector going his rounds, and should he dis-
cover unsatisfactory conditions the people are fined.

There is one hotel here, the Royal, but I did not see it. The
Bank of British West Africa was quite the finest building,
erected in 1909. There is the Wilberforce Memorial Hall, near St.
George's Cathedral, for public entertainments, and several schools
and many churches. The French Occidental Company's offices
were presentable and large ; they had decorated their balcony
with palms and flowers. Familiar signs for Sunlight Soap pro-
minently announce that it " makes linen like snow."

One would like to have time to take the train far into the interior
and get a glimpse of the cannibal Timini tribe, to see the vivid green
mountains and the savannahs spread out before one. Alas ! time is
short. I pass the prison on 1113/ way back to the ship ; there is a fine tree
in its yard, and they say that many people have been hanged from it.

Altogether I was disappointed with Freetown, which in the
early days had been acquired as a home for the freed negroes. If
you see a decent-looking house, the next one to it will be left
in its natural state of rock and mud, and in many cases stray
bits of rubbish will be harboured within, giving the town a slack
and unkempt appearance — which seems unnecessary. I for one
like to see our ports a credit, not an eyesore. When we steamed
out we passed many half-concealed guns, also picturesque Tight-
house Bay, where the white tower shone in the dazzling sun-
shine. Fishing is very good off this point, tarpon, shark, and
fighting fish being the most plentiful.

388

CHAPTER L I V
Conakry, French Guinea

FOR days I had talked Conakry to good Captain Pankow.
There was some doubt if we should be allowed to go on
shore, it being a question of rubber. If a rubber cargo were wait-
ing we should have several hours in which to discover what the
much-talked-of French colonial capital was like. Many of the
English and German passengers were as keenly anxious to land
as I was. It was a perfect Sunday afternoon when the Eleonore
Woermann reduced speed and the steam whistle rudely broke in
upon the calm Sabbath of French Guinea.

The town shone lustrously in the golden sunshine, its white
villas, veiled by palm trees, reflected in the still blue water, the
soft summer clouds gathered into snow-like banks adding an
ethereal effect to the lovely scene.

I was deputed to find out if we could go ashore, by what sort
of conveyance, and how long a time we were entitled to stay.
Captain Pankow was, as always, kind and obliging. We could go
ashore in the steam launch for two and a half hours, which would
be the limit of our time for sightseeing. We were delighted with
this concession, as there had been much conjecture on the
question.

In something like five minutes a very smart Government launch
and a Woermann launch raced out to us. These are filled with
French gentlemen and one or two ladies. They look very nice in
their spotless white. It being Sunday, most of them have come on
board for a little recreation and change — -especially liking the cold
beer on our ship. We quickly exchange places with them, and a
merry party proceeds through the sparkling waves to the long
protruding stone and concrete mole, where big steamers can come
alongside and land one comfortably and dignifiedly by proper
stone steps. Such a relief from that terrifying " mammy chair ! '

The mountains of surf here are well behaved. Polite waves sob
along this coast — not the howling of mad breakers. The launch

389

A Woman's Winter in Africa

is clean and up-to-date. I ask the French officer about the return-
ing arrangements. It is a blessing to be able to speak their lan-
guage, and he answers most politely, " Every twenty minutes the
launch goes to the ship." What a convenience !

But I must not waste one moment out of the short time given
in which to see Conakry. I at once secure a rickshaw. It is
modern and comfortable — two-seated, with khaki covers, which
I ask to have turned back, not wishing anything to restrict my

vision ! It is rubber-tyred.
One boy runs in front and two
push at the back. Softly and
silently we speed along the
beautiful wide, smooth, clean
boulevards — and boulevard is
the proper name for these
magnificent thoroughfares. On
each side there is a wide pave-
ment, well kept ; the middle
_„.. of the road is of hard-beaten

- "~~" ■ ' . reddish earth, and two narrow

trolley lines run parallel.

Our wayis beautifully shaded
by tall graceful palms and
enormous silk cotton trees.
Especially remarkable is the
Boulevard Circulaire et le
Grand Fromager. There are
high, brilliant green mango
trees, with a plentiful harvest
of hanging dark fruit, some
changing to reds and yellows
in the hot, ripening sunshine ; while large brown and green
cocoanuts occasionally drop from the high branches. There is
also the big-leaved breadfruit, with its offerings of dark shining
globes.

I regretfully acknowledge the difference there is between
Conakry, Lome, and Freetown — even rich Lagos cannot be de-
scribed as beautiful. Why do we, the wealthiest nation (for we
make our colonies pay) tolerate our West African ports being the
very ugliest amongst the nations ? We can do better. For

390

CONAKRY BEACH AND LIGHTHOUSE.

Conakry, French Guinea

example, there could not be a more model town than Durban.
Everything there is in perfect taste and immaculate cleanliness.
Port Elizabeth is also a credit. Everyone knows what a Lovely
place Cape Town is, both as regards its scenery, its environment,
and all places connected with it. Freetown possesses natural
beauty, surrounded by splendid mountain fastnesses. If only the
authorities would pull down some of the hideous native houses,
and oversee the building of proper accommodation ; have the

PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARE, CONAKRY.

streets cleansed, and pick up the disused sardine tins, it would
be a fine place. When one sees Conakry one wonders why our
ports are not laid out and kept in the same commendable manner.
Proceeding in the rickshaw, wherever my eyes wander a sur-
prising delight awaits me. Here is a garden, most artistic, full of
flower-beds, purple and white petunias flourishing, their sweetness
wafted to me. The whole air is perfumed by pink and white
frangipanni. Now we turn a corner and I am in the Place de la
Gouvernement. All is spacious and well thought out. In the

39i

A Woman's Winter in Africa

first place, there is the grateful shade of innumerable tropical trees,
then walks and flower-beds.

I pause before a handsome memorial to Governor-General
Ballay, a pioneer benefactor to the nation. It is raised on a base
of white stone, above which a more than life-sized figure of
General Ballay in bronze stands upon a pedestal. In one hand
he protectingly grasps the flag, the other arm encircles a naked
negro. At the side a child is presenting a palm leaf. Reposing
at the foot is a bronze group of natives who have brought as
offerings the fruits of their country. The whole is charmingly
executed.

The trickling of falling water is always pleasant music in the
tropics, and when I again mount the rickshaw I hear a fountain
encircled by hedges of red and golden crotons. Government House
stands facing these gardens. It is a long, large, comfortable-look-
ing residence, painted grey, with deep verandahs enclosed by
shutters, by opening which you can get as much air as possible,
or by closing shut out the sun's rays entirely. Serving as screens
were many feathery bamboo trees. The borders of the flower
gardens, planted with lemon grasses, exude a refreshing aroma.

The next building of importance is the Palais de Justice, in colonial
style, with fine white columns protecting its wide verandahs.
Here also the verdure is remarkable. One thing I particularly
noticed was that in the large cavities of the cotton and mango
trees holes have been filled with concrete — for this reason : In the
rainy season water is held in these receptacles, where the mos-
quitoes swarm and breed. It recalls to me Panama, and the mar-
vellous change that has taken place in that notoriously unhealthy
isthmus of Central America, where by ingenuity and millions,
and the American lavish use of concrete and oil, Panama is
the last word in hygiene. The home of the Mayor, facing the sea,
was another good example of sensible and appropriate architec-
ture.

By the sea runs a long clean boulevard, and on the point, built
upon brown rocks, stands the lighthouse, its white sides and big
lamp gleaming in the dying sun. This is where people take their
afternoon excursion, either by motor or rickshaw. The principal
streets run parallel, with side streets branching off. Here live the
natives ; their small thatched houses or huts are well-built and
clean. They were a good-looking lot as natives run, with the

392

Conakry, French Guinea

usual love for bright raiment. They include many Mohammedans
and Hausas. I was very content to find a shop where they sold
some Hausa leather-work, swords, baskets, and pure gold rings
with clever filigree-work done by the natives of Senegal. It is
seldom one obtains native curios on the West Coast.

In all the streets the houses were commodious, modern, and quite
habitable as regards the interior. Some had the verandahs filled
with flowers and palms, greatly enhancing the effect. Conakry is
well lighted by electricity ; there is a good hotel, the Grand, and an
excellent cafe, where I stopped while the landlady gave me interest-
ing information. There are about five hundred Europeans in the
Colony, and some ten millions of natives. Conakry is backed by
pale blue mountains. The railway goes some 300 kilometres into
the country, connecting with
the Niger River at Kurussa.
It is in Sierra Leone that the
Niger River finds its birth.

The French have built a
splendid railway, millions of
francs being spent on bridges
and clearances. I am told

that scenery in the interior is
beautiful, which I can well
believe. I have been shown
some fine photographs of the Conakry.

land through which the rail-
way runs. Few people realize the extent of French territory
in Africa. For thousands of miles it spreads across the Dark
Continent, and when their great ambition has been achieved,
to connect their entire possessions with North Africa, crossing
the famous Sahara, they will have accomplished something
praiseworthy.

I have been through all the main streets and some of the side
ones. I jump out to photograph a gorgeous bunch of natives
who are buying silvery fish. There's a glance at my watch — ■
time is up. How I regret that I cannot remain longer and learn
more of this beautiful place ! I remount the little carriage.
" Vite ! Vite ! " I shout to the boys. I hear the call of the
Eleonore from her distant anchorage, and hope I shall not miss
the ship. In a few minutes I arrive rather breathless on the jetty ;

393

A Woman's Winter in Africa

the launch is waiting — I am the last. Several friendly hands are
held out to assist me — I grab two, take a jump, and am on
board !

That night at dinner I asked the Englishmen at my table why
there was such a great contrast between Freetown and Conakry,
in regard to well-kept streets and an ideally laid out town. After
a long argument the gist of their remarks was : ' We are only out
here a year, and we hope never to see the country again. We are
nearly always sent to different stations, so why make a garden at
great inconvenience as regards water supply for someone else to
reap the benefit ?

It appeared to me a short-sighted policy. I remembered when
I was at the Durbar in Delhi how many lovely gardens I saw,
and the great pride and joy those Englishmen had taken. One
in particular, the chief of a small wayside station, had shown me
with enormous pride some sweet English violets, which he had
cultivated in boxes. This delightful plot was some three yards
square, and had involved infinite care and patience ; but its
owner had gained his reward. I have heard in this new country,
which the French have evacuated to the Germans as a result of
the Moroccan treaty, the French have pulled up all their vines
and vegetables. Some of the officers who have been on expedi-
tions to the country return with this report.

' Imp " says : " Always prevail upon a captain to let you see
Conakry. It's worth it."

39 +

CHAPTER LV

The Islands

FIVE days of monotony, during which Africa appeared to have
decided our ship must not proceed, for she sent blustering
trade winds and an angry, choppy sea to retard our progress.
After all these months in the tropics, where one was never really
dry, this sudden cold at the end of May was astonishing, and
everyone grumbled. Heavy coats which had been packed away
for months were eagerly sought. I felt sorry for a few people who
had to wear white, not having anything else on board.

Our ship is nearly full. The Englishmen have commenced
sweepstakes ; a chess tournament is in progress, and we are
allowed to bet on our favourite players. About 4 p.m. to-day
from out of a stormy sea we emerged for mails and passengers at
Las Palmas. Grand Canary had religiously hidden behind im-
penetrable veils of mist, and refused to "cast a clout," as the
Scotch say. In looking towards the town one could pick out
the landmarks if one knew the place. I had already spent a
winter among these islands, therefore knew them well.

One caught a glimpse of the white buildings perched
1500 feet high at Monte, and the Hotel Santa Brigida, which
makes a charming excursion if one has the time. The drive
through the town, past hundreds of washerwomen cleansing
their household effects in the stream, brings you finally to an
excellent hotel, where from the pretty gardens a magnificent
view is obtained. It is pleasant to lunch here and drive back late
in the afternoon. Alas ! there was no time to land, and we were
obliged to content ourselves by leaning over the taffrail watching
the small fleet of merchants who soon surrounded our ship.

When the signal was given that they could come on board, how
they scrambled and fought for precedence up the gangway ! Some
more adventurous and impatient than the others climbed up by
ropes. These men were mostly Hindus, selling Ceylon jewellery.
All shades and variations of complexion were noticed among the

395

A Woman's Winter in Africa

Goanese and half-caste Spanish. In a jiffy goods are laid out, and
the passengers begin their " palaver." You may have your choice of
Zodiac rings, Ceylon stone bracelets and rings, moonstones in
profusion, and brooches. Then here are the Teneriffe embroidered
gowns, which some fond husband purchases for his wife, and which
she finds it difficult for her modiste to make up.

There are blouses, and, most practical of all, teacloths, table-
cloths, and bed-spreads, of drawn-thread work, which are always
acceptable presents in any household. Below are boats full of
golden fruit — oranges, big brown figs, lemons, cherries, bananas.
Each fruit has a clientele. Wildly the bargaining goes on, and
nearly everyone has bundles of something under his or her arm.
An ebony elephant looks out, almost smothered by embroidered
cloths ; Maltese lace, trails upon the deck ; and Coptic veils glisten
like tiny eyes as their silver threads catch the light.

In a short time the whistle gives its three signals, and the
merchants are bustled off, their bales much lighter and their
pockets heavier. I should say they are' richer by quite £100.
Nearly everyone has .bought something for some cherished one at
home, and many have expended £15 cr more.

It seems to me that Las' Palmas is much larger than when I was
here a few years "ago. One recognizes the Cathedral, the Hotel
Metropole, and the Santa Catalina Hotel ; a very great improve-
ment is the open tramcars which run from the wharf to the
town. Every traveller will remember the miserable road of
former times, and the " tartanas " with their reckless drivers
which one was obliged to take. In a few minutes Grand Canary
was left in her misty seclusion. An Englishman said it
reminded him of a November day at home, and he was
right.

At 10 p.m. we drew up at'Teneriffe. The town looked beautiful
under its dark shroud. The sky, however, was black and threaten-
ing. A few tired-looking people climbed over the gangway, and
there was a concert in the salon, so I presume we must have
appeared a merry crowd. The sea still grumbles, and evidently
intends doing so, for even now she has retarded us to such an
extent that we shall be one day late in arriving at Southampton.
To me, who have been thousands of miles in all climes and
countries, it seems unbelievable that I am to be at home in less
than a week ; but " Imp " says it is true.

396

I— »

a
Q
<

o
a

A Woman's Winter in Africa

A day of sailing, again through angry waters, and early in the
morning Madeira is reached. How lovely it looks with its fresh
green foliage reaching right up to the summits of the mountains !
This is by far the most beautiful island possession of Portugal.
The Azores, Teneriffe, and Las Palmas are pretty, but Madeira is
the gem of them all.

I went ashore. The weather was perfect, and landing and
all arrangements most comfortable — quite luxurious compared
with some of my disembarkations ! I at once secured an
ox-sledge, and alone proceeded to enjoy all that I could see. My
man spoke some English, and we went first to the fruit and flower
market. What a display ! How appetizing the fresh peas, aspara-
gus, guavas, strawberries, loquats, grenadillas, passion fruit,
oranges, bananas — such an abundance of the earth's harvest !

But one must be careful in buying, as they will endeavour to
charge exorbitant prices if you are careless about the sum. I
purchased a very nice steamer chair for ios., and across the way I
could have had the same thing for 8s. It is not the question of 2s.,
but no one likes to be cheated, especially if one has travelled
extensively. The flowers were such a treat after the flamboyant
blossoms to which one had been accustomed in the tropics. Violets,
roses, begonias, heliotrope, mimosa, all sent forth their sweet
breath on the already scented air.

The fish market should be visited, for here you see the big
tunny fish, and all varieties of the smaller tribe. I arrived early
in the morning, and great bargains were being driven. Careful
housewives filled their baskets ; men in huge sombreros shouted,
and the miscellaneous wants of family life were being dealt with
as rapidly as possible. Women would adjust huge baskets of
eatables on their heads and triumphantly stride homewards over
the cobble-stoned street.

A couple of men from the Eleonore pause to have a word.
Each has a tiny cask of the famous Madeira wine under his arm.
I am told that last year more than 10,000 pipes of this wine were
exported. It is said to have existed on the island since the days
of Prince Henry of Portugal, dating back to 142 1, and finds favour
all over the world. The elements have been kind to Madeira.
Owing to its moderate climate it appears to produce nearly every-
thing. Sugar is a great industry ; early vegetables find their
way to Co vent Garden ; some coffee is raised, and fruit of the

398

The Islands

sub-tropics. Madeira embroideries arc noted the world round, as
is also the wickerwork. No place could be more delightful to spend
a winter in.

There are good hotels, fine roads, and now one can motor for
miles over the island. Riding is most enjoyable, fine panoramic
views existing in all parts of the mountain roads. The mountain
peaks are wooded with laurel and ferns to the height of 5000 feet
and over. The whole scene is beautiful, for there are deep ravines,
covered with vineyards, the rich red volcanic soil throwing
splashes of colour upon the green landscape.

Rocks are statuesque, bold, and impressive in their elevation ;
milk-white streams rush swiftly down mountain slopes, past red-
roofed and white-painted houses, through gardens where golden
mimosa and oranges to
match are ripening in
the glorious sunshine.
Everyone acknow-
ledges that Madeira is
unique in its beauty
and climate. I wished
my three hours could
extend to three weeks ;
but unfortunately that
was not possible, so I
continued my progress
in the two-seated ox-
sledgeinto many streets
and by-ways. I stop
to buy postcards and
embroidery, flowers

and fruit. The Eleonove screams at me, and I must reluctantly
leave beautiful Funchal.

When I arrived on board I found a most lovely basket of flowers
awaiting me, from Captain Schutt of the Steiermark, which had
passed the day before. I felt extremely pleased to be remembered,
and greatly appreciated his kindness. A vision of Cape Lopez
floats across my brain — the heat, the tornadoes, a strip of hot
sand, mosquitoes, and a few houses hiding themselves amongst
palms, but, above all, the never-failing goodness of Captain Schutt,
Mr. Muller, chief officer, and the chief engineer.

399

THE AUTHORESS AM) FLOWERS SEN! BY
CAPTAIN SCHUTT.

CHAPTER LVI
Homeward

EVERY turn of the screw brings me nearer to my beloved land.
"Is it true," I question "Imp," "that one day I shall
arrive and see home and old friends ? " " Imp " appears to nod
affirmatively. Calm seas prevail. Cape Finisterre is passed. Now
we plough through that dreaded and oftentimes much-maligned
Bay of Biscay. Nothing to fear — it proved to be a blue zone of
water. Ushant light looms in the darkness, revolving a vivid
warning. " Don't come here," it flashes.

The Channel is entered. I cannot realize I am in home waters.
I lie in my berth mentally going over the anxieties, dangers, and
vicissitudes of these thousands of miles. It seems only yesterday
that I was on the East Coast, and now the West has been left
behind.

A few nights later and the Eleonore Woermann halts just off
the " Needles." It is sunset, and the rocks are wrapped in golden
tissue.

I make my way to the bridge and grasp the hand of Captain
Pankowand First Officer Mr. Brammer in farewell. Their amiability
and courtesy were extended to me upon all occasions, and I am
genuinely grieved to leave them. Captain Pankow is one of the
youngest and most efficient commanders of the Woermann Linie.
Mr. Brammer had the charm of making everyone like him — a fine
officer who did all things as they should be done — from a cafe
chantant to the committal of a body to the deep.

The tender comes alongside. I have been on board the Eleonore
a long time, and every want has been attended to. I regret to say
adieu to the friendly party, although naturally I am delighted and
thankful to arrive once more in England.

I shake hands with everybody. My German friends line the rail,
and as we push off towards Southampton lusty cheers volley
across the water. " Good-bye, Mrs. Cameron. Hoch! Hoch! Hur-
rah ! " followed by an avalanche of waving handkerchiefs. I feel a

400

Homeward

lump in my throal and Long to rent a dark corner, where I may
weep for sheer gratitude. Instead, 1 am surrounded by English
people.

Many of the officials are introducing their wives, who have
come to greet them, and the ball of conversation must be kept
spinning. I am alone
— they reunited with
their families.

In a short time we
arrive at the docks.
It was moonlight when
I left in December —
it is moonlight when I
arrive in June.

A special train is pre-
pared to take us to
London. Heaps of time
expires over heaps of
luggage. As far as
clothes were concerned,
I would willingly have
given mine to the sea or
the Customs, but I cau-
tiously watched my
numerous boxes of
curios. Tips and every-
thing end in time. Soon
I was speeding towards
London. How splendid
it was to buy papers—
and picture ones at that.
I was athirst for news,
since Lagos never hav-
ing had a word except
stilted Marconi items.

At 1.30 a.m. I reach Waterloo, take a taxi, leave luggage to
be sent on next day, and emerging from the station encounter the
very worst storm of the year. When I drove through Regent's
Park thunder groaned while lightning cracked.

I leaned back contentedly and laughed. I was in London —

MRS. CHARLOTTE CAMERON.

2 C

4OI

A Woman's Winter in Africa

what cared I ? If anything happened now I should be decently
cared for and buried. After escaping the perils of a 26,000-mile
tour I felt I was strolling through clover fields in Elysium-
no fever — no sleeping-sickness — no surf — no " mammy chair."
Whatever chance held in store for me would be a bagatelle.

Lightning showed a natural path for me, and thunder gave me
a vociferous serenade. Before long the taxi drew up at my door.
I say to " Imp," " Surely I dream." It whispers, " No — it's
real." My servants have retired, although they knew I was due
at Southampton to-night. They did not expect me at two o'clock
in the morning. Upon entering the house my dog 'Bogie"
recognizes my voice — -he appears, and begins an ecstasy of joyful
barks.

Next morning I am seated before my desk in the study, looking
over countless letters and invitations. Outside, the garden is a
mass of fragrant flowers. Dorothy Perkins and crimson ramblers
festoon the high rustic archways, and stately lilies invite white
butterflies to pay an early visit. It's all very pleasant. I offer a
prayer to the Great Creator, thanking Him for guarding me through
my hazardous adventures.

' Imp " looks over my shoulder whispering : ' I have brought
you back — you were not too troublesome — in fact, sometimes I
was rather proud of you ! "

" Where are you off to now ? " I ask.

" Alone, to lofty heights in Siberia. Remember, I will return
to you on the first of November. Mind you are ready. We must
get away before your old enemy Bronkie arrives. Worth it,
wasn't it ? "

The gargoyle face was illuminated by a Hampstead sun-
beam.

' Worth it," I repeated — " of course it was. The palms, the
dangers — the turbulent sapphire of endless seas — the jewelled
islands — the deep lagoons — pearl-sprayed foam that knows no
rest — of course, it was worth it !

' You led me through ebony corridors of grinning natives, where
no white woman had ever walked. Through dripping jungles
infested by cannibals — cannibals whose teeth were filed to
sharp gleaming points — points that made me shudder for my
safety.

' Your intangible presence was always with me in the tropical

402

I lomeward

dark— Little English ' Imp of Travel' who knew no fear. Now
I thank you. You have brought me home. There is English wind
in my trees, English flowers in my garden. Till autumn I have
grown very tired of palms.

"But a woman changes her mind — I await you, dear ' Imp,'
till November first ! "

FINIS.

403

A WOMAN'S WINTER
IN SOUTH AMERICA

By CHARLOTTE CAMERON

In Crown Svo. Cloth gilt. 6/- net

PRESS OPINIONS

" This journey, undertaken by Mrs. Charlotte Cameron, is described in
such a crisp and chatty fashion that from first to last the reader is compelled
to accompany the authoress on every step of the long itinerary. Mrs.
Cameron has a chapter entitled ' Political,' in which she upbraids British
Governments for their neglect of the West Indies, a neglect which she says
is eating into the heart and life of their people, and she also sounds a warning
note as to what may happen after the Panama Canal is opened should England
continue to ignore the strategical and colonial value of the West Indies."

Scotsman.

" A really readable and interesting account of a journey in South America
given in detail with nothing omitted that will amuse, entertain or instruct the
reader. The scenes are so clearly depicted that one can readily imagine the
places visited." — Schoolmistress.

" If we cannot view a country for ourselves, the next best plan is to read
of the journeys of some observant and critical traveller, and to know the
conditions of South America one cannot do better than to read Mrs. Charlotte
Cameron's ' A Woman's Winter in South America.' " — Dundee Courier.

" Mrs. Cameron gives us a brightly written account of her long journey. She
visited the Panama Canal, motoring along its route for fifty miles. Altogether
her book is very pleasant, and it is excellently illustrated." — Liverpool Courier.

" The reader will be delighted and the traveller informed." — Catholic Times.

" We close this book but with one regret — that there is not more of it."

Bristol Times.

" We can say, after extracting real pleasure from ' A Woman's Winter in
South America,' that is written in a most attractive fashion and is thoroughly
interesting." — ■ Manchester Courier.

" ' A Woman's Winter in South America ' is not only a fascinating and
generously illustrated book of travel, but will also prove an indispensable
guide to all who contemplate a visit to that region." — IVestminster Review.

" Mrs. Cameron has given us an extremely readable book of a prolonged
visit to both Coasts of South America, including Trinidad and Barbados.
The book is full of keen and suggestive observation." — Morning Post.

London: STANLEY PAUL & CO.
31 ESSEX STREET, STRAND, W.C.

))
3.

THE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

Santa Barbara

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW.

Series 9482

■^..SOUTHERN REGIONAL

Internet Archive Audio

Featured

Top

Images

Featured

Top

Software

Featured

Top

Books

Featured

Top

Video

Featured

Top

Mobile Apps

Browser Extensions

Archive-It Subscription

Save Page Now

Full text of "A woman's winter in Africa, a 26,000 mile journey"

See other formats