BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY
^
3 9999 06317 350 2
OFFICE OF NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION
DIVISION OF REVIEW
REPORT OF THE SPECIAL COMMISSION ON
WAGE DIFFERENTIALS IN THE CAP AND
CLOTH HAT INDUSTRY
By
Paul F. Brissenden
Chairman
Max Meyer
Wirt A. Gill
WORK MATERIALS NO. FIVE
March, 1936
OFFICE CF EAriG-.VLL F.ECCVEHY ABi.' I IS I STRATI ON
Division OF R^VI£W
P.FPOF.T OF THE SPECIAL COiv^I'ISSlON 0!T
TvAGE DIFF£PE1:TIALS IN THE CAP AND
CLOTH HAT IalDUSTFY
By
Pr-ul F. Brissenden
Chairman
Max Meyer
".7irt A. Gill
March, lr/5b
9751
I G 5 £; iV ORE
This report of the Speciil Comnisbion on "iVapfi Differentials
in the Cap and Cloth ''at Industiy x«^?s prepared by Messrs. Pau.1
F. Brissenden, Chairman, Lax i.^^yev a.rid Wirt A. Gill,
The report vras made in January 19C'>5 and a STnall number of
copies was released at that time. It is here reproduced in order
that it may be i;iade widely av-ilaole to students in the labor
field.
At the back of this report will be found a brief statement
of the studies undertaken by the Divir;ion of RfvIpw.
L. C. i'.arshp.ll,
Director, Divii-ion of Review
March 6, 1936
9751
CONTENTS
Page
Recorainendations of the CoLimicision 1
Findings of Fact 4
CommentG on the Commission's Recommendations 7
Report
The Industry 11
Soiirces of Information 15
Trends in Business Volui"ne "by Areas 18
Distribution of Sales According to Area in
which Products are Sold 20
Distribution by Type of Outlet 31
Production of Various Types of Caps 34
Total Cost (Excluding Overhead) 38
Material Costs 38
Direct Labor C?sts , 40
Labor Costs for Individual Operations 40
Mark-Up 43
Selling and Freight Costs 44
Sex of Employees and Sectionalization of
Shops 46
Wage Rates, Earnings and Employment , 48
-oCo-
1171-11
TABLES
Page
TABLE I - Distritution of 535 Reporting Firms
According to Jl-jn.'bers of Workers Em-
ployed, 1934 13
TABLE II - Type of Plant Operation 16
TABLE III - N-omber of Reporting Firms and Em-
ployees in Cities of Specified
Sizes 17
TABLE IV - K-umber and Per Cent of Changes in
Man-Hours Worked, in 12<:i Identical
Firms, in July and August, 1934,
and 103 Identical Firms in August
and September, 1934 , 22
TABLE V - Distribution of Sales According to Area
A. Number of Firms and Amount of
Sales o 24
B. Per Cent of Total Number of Firms
Selling in Each Area and of
Total Sales Made in Each Area 24
C. Per Cent of Total Number of Firms
Prcducing in Each Area and of
Total Production in Each Area 25
D. Distribution of Sales of Caps
Produced in New York City by
Areas 26
E. Distribution of Sales of Cnps
Produced in the Eastern States
by Area s . , 27
F. Distribution of Sales of Caps
Produced in the Western States
by Areas 28
TABLE VI - Distribution of Firms According to
Per Cent of Sales through Various
Outlets 52
TABLE VII - Production of Various Caps, by Areas
A. Number of Firms and Dozens of
Caps Produced 35
B. Per Gent of Total Caps vf Each
Type which are Produced in
Each Area 36
C. Per Cent of Total Caiis Produced in
Each Area which are of Each
Type ..,...., 36
1171-III
TABLE VIII
TABLE IX -
TABLE X -
TABLE XI -
TA3LE XII
TABLE XIII -
TABLE XIV -
TABLE XV -
TABLE XVI
TABLE XVII -
Page
Summary pi Averrige Total Direct
Costs, Material Costs, and Prices,
Per Dozen far Various Price Golf
GapE!, t;y G-eor;raphical Areas 39
Averafi;e Total Direct Labor Costs
and productivity of Lator for
Various Price Golf Caps 41
Summary of Average Labor Costs and
Efficiencies for Major Operations
for Various Price Gclf Caps, "by
Geographical Area 42
Proportion of Total Overhead of
Freight and Selling Costs 45
llumher of Male and Female Employees
During the ^,7eek of August 11, 1934 47
A. Frequency Distrihu+ion of Hourly
Earnings of Employees for Week
Ending July 13^, 1934 49-51
B. Frequency Distribution of Hourly
Earnings of Employees for Week
Ending August 11 , 1934 52-54
Frequency Distributions of Prevailing
Weekly Earnings of Employees, Weeks
Ending July 14, August 11, and
September 15, 1?34 5G-58
Frequency Distribution of Prevailing
Hours af Work of Employees, Weeks
Ending July 14, August 11, and
September 15, 1934 Gl-62
Average Annual Earnings of Wage
Earners in Cap Factories in
Selected States, 1927 - 1S33 S4
Extent of Full-Time Employment in 1933
A. Number of Firms and Employees 65
B. Per Cent of Firms and Employees 67
-oOo-
117HV
SUPPtSl-SNTAEY TABLES
Page
TABLE VIII - A. IndividToal Plant Total Direct La-
tor Costs, Total Material Cost,
Wholesale Price, and Selling
Outlet, by G-eographical Areas -
25^ aolf Cap . . . /. 68
B. Individioal Plant Total Direct La-
bor Costs, Total Material Cost,
T^holesale Price, and Selling
Cutlet, by G-eo£:raphical Areas -
39^ Golf Gap ....'. 70
C. Individual Plant Total Direct La-
bor Costs, Total ?Iaterial Cost,
Wholesale Price, and Selling
Outlet, by C-eographical Areas -
59«f Golf Cap 71
D. Individioal Plant Total Direct La-
bor Costs, Total Material Cost,
Wholesale Price, and Selling
Outlet, by Geographical Areas -
69;!f Golf Cap 72
E. Individual Plant Total Direct La-
bor Costs, Total Material Cost,
Wholesale Price, and Selling
Outlet, by Geographical Areas -
100<# Golf Cap 74
TABLE IX - Individual Plant Total Direct Labor
Costs and Efficiencies 76
TABLE X - A. Individual Plant Labor Costs and
Efficiencies by Geographical
Areas - 25(z! Golf Cap .'. 77
B. Individual Plant Labor Costs and
Efficiencies by Geographical
Areas - 39<;^ Golf Cap 78
C. Individual Plant Labor Costs and
Efficiencies by Geographical
Areas - 5^(f: Golf Cap 79
D. Individual Plant Labor Costs and
Efficiencies by Geographical
Areas - 69(f Golf Cap 8G
E. Individual Plant Labor Costs and
Efficiencies by Geographical
Areas - lOOy/^ Golf Cap 81
-oOo-
1171-V
CIIAHT3
r'age
Figure A - Distriliution Among the Markets
of. Total Physical Volurne of
Crp EuDinesE ,..., 21
Figure B - Frequency Distribution of Em-
ployees by Vi^'eekly Earnings for
the Week Ending August 11, 1934,
"by Area , 59
Figure C - Frequency Tistritution of Em-
ployees by IiQ-'urs Worked the
Week of August 11, 1934,
by Area , , 63
1171-VI
RECOfMENDATIOWS OY THE COMMISSION
In the li.'^ht of its findings, tne Commission
recommends:
First, that Article IV of the Code "be amended,
establishing- the following areas in place of those new in
the Labor Provisions:
Area "A" - to include the following counties in New
York State:
Soroughs of Manhattan, Kings, Queens, Bronx,
Richmond and the County of Westchester.
Area "B" - to remain the same with the following ■
exceptions:
1. That it exclude Area "A" as defined above, ■
and
2. That it exclude Buffalo and Pittsburgh
Metropolitan Districts.
Area "C" - to remain the same as at present pro-
vided in the Code with the addition of the Metro-ooli-
tan Areas of Buffalo and Pittsburgh.
Second, that no employee engaged in cutting,.
blocking, operating or lining making in the several areas
shall be paid less than at the rates specified ja ihe fol-
lowing schedule:
1171-1
Area "A" - 55 cents per hour or at the rat^ of
not less than $22 for a 40 hoiir week.
Area "B" - 47-1/2 cents per hour or at the rate
of not less than $19 for a 4C hour week.
Area "C" - 44 cents per hour or at the rata of
not less than $17,50 for a 40 hour week.
Third, that Article IV, Section 1 of the Code
with respect to unskilled labor remain unchanged, speci-
fying a rate of 32-1/2 cents per hour for these employees.
Fourth, that Article IV, Section 5 of the Code
dealing with apprentices remain unchanged.
Fifth, that to alleviate distress and undue
hardships in special and exceptional cases, wherein a
worker properly "belonging to this Industry is threatened
with loss of employment or inability to secure employment
because he or she is admittedly of abnormally low pro-
ductive capacity, a special Board be established under the
Code and be authorized t» permit the employment of such
a worker at a wage less than the basic minimiam wage.
This power may be given to "the special Millinery Bo^d"
of the Millinery Code Authority if the necessary arrange-
ments can be made.
Sixth, that the Industry seriously consider the
1171-2
possibility of cornbinin,?^ this Code v/ith one of the major
apparel industries, preferably the Millinery Code.
1171-3
FINDINGS OF FACT
After due considerc.tion of (l) the statistical
analyses of payroll and other factu.al material submitted,
(2) the testimony presented at its Hearing and 'brief s sub-
mitted and (c) its ovm direct observations and inquiries in
shops which it has visited; the Commission finds:
First, that avera;^© t-otal costs (of direct labor
plus material) ai-e higher in New York City than elsewhere,
with one exception.
Secondj that direct labor costs for every impor-
tant grade of cloth caps, are consistently lower in the
East and West than in New York City, The differences in
labor costs vary for etxh type of c£i.p. In the West the a
average total direct labor cost is from 5 per cent to 10 per
cent lower thaji in New York City in the case of three grades
of golf caps, and 25 per cent and 32 per cent lower in the
case of two very important grades. In the East the average
total direct labor cost is 4, 11 and 32 per cent lower than
in New York City for three important grades in cloth caps.
Thirdjj^ that average material costs per dozen
caps are somewhat lower in the West for all grades of
1171-4
caps and for all but one grade of caps in the East.
• I!£j:?;riii» that frei£:ht costs and selling expenses
are slightly lower in New Yorl: than elsev/here, the former
averaging 9.3, 7.2 and 6.3 i->eT cent of total overhead m the
East, and West and New York City, respectively, ,nd the lat-
ter 37.2, 33.8 and 49.4 per cent of overhead in the West,
the East e.nd New York Cit^s respectively.
Fifth, that the avera,j,e per cent gaross mark-up in
the \7est for every type of cloth c>-ip, v/ith one exception,
was foundi to he at lec.st 'fe-i.^-ice as large as the marlcap in the
East and ITe-.v York City.
Sixthj that the average efficiency of workers in
the East is from 15 per cent to 20 per cent "below that of
workers in Hew York City, uid x,hrxt the average efficiency of
workers in the West is fi-ora 15 per cent to 40 per cent be-
low that of v.'orkers in I'lev; York City, being about 35 per
cent lower for three important grades of golf caps and 13
per cent and 22 per cent lower for two other grades.
Seventh^ that in spite of the superior labor ef-
ficiency of Hew York City firms, average direct labor costs
are considerably higher in this area due to the higher rates
of pay.
Eighth, that in spite of the fact that the
1171-5
average niimber of weeks of full-time employment furnished
workers in the ;7est is greater (averat'ing forty-one (4l)
weeks to a majority of employees) than in the East, (thirty-
six (36) weeks) or New York City (thirty-three (-33) weeks),
the annual earnings of New York City workers are larger.
This again is due to the much higher wage rate paid in New
York City.
Ninth, that there is a great volume of unemploy-
ment in the Indu.stry ,:-nd that even the employed workers are
employed for a short week and for only part of the year.
Tenth, that the Cap and Cloth Hat Industry is so
small and is made up so predominantly of small and widely-
scattered producing units that the prohlem of Code enforce-
ment is one of extraordinary difficulty; that adequate en-
forcement has not, so far, "been accomplished and is txnlike-
ly to he achieved, even after amendment along lines recom-
mended hy this Commission, so long as the hurden of enforce-
ment rests v^holly u.pon the sho'olders of any Code Authority
that has no greater financial resources than this small In-
dustry is ahle to ^jrovide, '
1171-5
COMKEIITS OK TH2 COm.IISSIOil'S PJlCOMviEMDATIONS
Tlie Coiuaissicn Relieves thit the incorporation in
the Goc.e cf c.n a.T.endment emliod^'in^,' the foretroing, recommenda-
tions wovJd tend to iuprove conditions in the Industry. It
is tneir opiiiion that the nev; r-.nd narro-ver difi'erentials
sa^'-^.epted ^?ovJ.d tend to diminish unfair £nd destnictive com-
petition in the Industr/ and woiild therefore mcke the prob-
ler.! of code enfcr cement a much more mana^eaule one. If
these reco-.'iiacndations vjere adopted the differential for the
West instead of bsinr 32 per cent luider th^.t in riew York
City v;ouid he 20 :-er cent lov;er ,^nd vrould he 7 per cent low-
er tlian the wa-ue rates in the Zast. The differential for
the 3.;.st outside of jTev York City rovJ.d be 14 per cent he-
low that of tne wa^e rates in hev; York Cxt:".
Xic t the proposed re:.d.jastment in areas and rates
Vfould mean to tlie Industry if adopted will "be hetter under-
stood "by examining the dj ta on hourly ea,rnings, and Tahles
XIII A and 3. It ap-Tcar:-, that in the East the hourly eoi'n-
in^s cf ruo'-'-t t'-''-thirui of the v/arkers equaled or exceeded
4'% cents -oer hour. Application of the new rates would mean,
therefore, that these producers, :aany of whom are now oioerating
xxnder stays at 41:|- cents per hour vrould have to raise the
wages of ahorit one-third of their vrorkers "by amo'onts not
greater than 6 cents per hoixr.
In the West, indications t-re that in Jvly and
Afj^.st b-f 1934, over 45 per cent of the workers had earnings
equal to or greater than 45 cents per hovjr. The proposed
rainirn'om of 44 cents per hour for this area, v/ould mean, therefore,
that v.'Sstern producers wov-ld he ohli.,.-ed..to raise somewhat
less than half of their workers from 37-^ to 44 cents per
hour .
In the case of the Bxiffalo firms, many of v/hich
are nov/ operating under a stay, under the proposal they
would have to ra.ise their minimiun ^vage rite from 41^ to 44
cents per hour.
The Commission does not think that the proposed
rate adjustment need jrove und-oly burdensome to western man-
ufacturers in view of the recommendation for special provi-
sions for handicapped and slow vrorlcers ^nd especially in
view of the possibility of bringing aboxit reduction in costs
"OJider the new rate by enhancement of efficiency. In the
production of a staple article like caps, it should be ^sos-
sible, in the opinion of the Comirdssion, to attain almost
as high a level of efficiency in the i7est as has been reach-
ed in llew York City.
1171-8
Althoti^h it is true that tlic Gap Industry is in a
deplorable state as a wliole, man/ firms are doing very v^ell
financially t-nd amont.; txiese are seme of t^ie concerns which
have been most emphatic in registering protests against any
ch£.nges in minimum ho-orly rateso
More favoraole labor provisions in the major codes
to v/hich the Cap Code is closely rel._,ted m^^y be urged as a
circumstance favoring the liberalization of its labor pro-
visions. i.Iost of the major in.lustries in the apparel field
have much higher v;age and shorter hour provisions than does
the Cap and Cloth Hat Code. This markedly true of the
Dress, Coat and Suit, Lien's Clothin^ and iiillinery Codes.
The only major ap'oarel code vdzn no more favorrbie Itibor
provisions is the Cotton Garment Code and even its hour
provisions are now shorter than those fo^ond in the Cap
Code.
The relations betv/een the Cap Industry and the
Millinery Industry are close in many ways. The processes
and mg-chinery used are simile r or identical. There is
a considerable raovem.ent of workers back and forth between
cap and millinery factories. Tnene facts malce pertinent
not only the suggestion that the proposed handicapped
workers provision might be {administered by the special
Millinery Boc.rd but also the propisal th,..t it might be
1171-9
well in the best interests of the Cap Industry to amalgamate
its Code, for ptirposes of enforcement at least, with some
other code like that of the Millinery Industry. The Com-
mission believes that for many small industries the only
solution of their enforcement problem is raore or less com-
plete affiliation with a lar.-^er, closely related industry.
Although it has not made a formal recommendation
on the point, the Commission vdshes to emphasize the ur-
gent need for serious consideration of an early action upon
the contractor problem, the serioxisness of which in New York
City is f^^lly appreciated in the Industry. The Commission
wishes informa.lly to su.£gest that some plan for the regis-
tration of contra-ctors be worked out after study of the ■
experiences of the coat and suit and other apparel indus-
tries now trying to cope v/ith this problem.
1171-10
REPORT Oi' THE SPECIAL CO! It.JSSIOK
POR THE CAP AlTD CLOTH IIAT INDUSTRY
The Industry
The Cap 1:1. duo try is small and is mf.de up for the
most pp.rt of small and highly competitive units. For a de-
cade the Industry/ has "been ^rov.'ing smaller. Its decline is
not merely a depression phenomenoii; the d.eprpssion served
merely to accelerate a dovmward trend th;,t was a orocess in
the middle '20s. The record is indicited by the Census
figures on dollar volioine (valixe of products) since 1935,
1925 $43,822,729
1927 41,213,965
1929 35,900,564
, ■ 1931 16,367,181
1953 12,658,883
The following table, compiled from Census data
shows the trend of the distriVation of t^ie dollar volum.e of
business among the various areas. The figi^xes shown are a
percentage of the total dollar volume of business done by
each area:
1933 1931 1929 1927 1919
New York State 27.7 38.7 40.5 37.6 49.5
East (excl. N.Y. State) 26.2 19.3 17.3 20.7 20.7
West ■ 45.1 42.0 -^-1.7 41^7 2'.1.8
U. S. 100.0 1*^0.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
1171-11
These figures shov; that New York City's share of
the cap business declined from one-half in 1919 to a little
over one-foua~th of the total business in 1933, The ea.stern
f.rea appears to have maintained its share of the total cap
business. Qv.ite noticeahle are the gains made by the manu-
facturers located in the Western area, who have increa.sed
their proi:)ortion of the total c^p "business from 30 per cent
in 1919 to 46 per cent in 1933.
Wages disbursed by the industry dropped from $9,-
242,937 in 1925 to $2,968,064 in 1933. Similar though less
pronounced declines have taken place in th-: number of es-
tablishments and the number of workers in this industry.
The payroll retiirns availc.ble to the Commission
indicate that the Industry now employs about 5,000 workers
in abov.t 535 establisliments, and does about $13,000,000
worth of bu.siness annually.
The ore-depression decline in the Industry ?/as
probably due in mt. jor ;oart to the som'ewhat v'/idespread habit
of going bareheaded, and partly due to a style trend showing
a tendency to wear hats instead of caps.
Table I indicates the size of firms in this
Industry. It is seen that roughly half of the firms
in the Industry employ ten workers or less. Furthermore,
ind.ications rre that the Western shops are larger than
1171^.^^2
TA3LE I
SPECIAL COmiSSION FOH THE CAP AlID CLOTH HAT INDUSTRY
Distribution of 535 Beporting Firms According
to Numbers of Workers Bnployed, 1934
Nxim"b
ers of
W-omber^of Firms
Employees
United
New York
■'States
_ Citz.
Bast ,
^ West_
1 -
5
295
118
83
94
6 -
10
125
50
28
47
11 -
15
33
9
7
17
16 -
20
27
9
4
14
21 -
25
16
4
4
8
26 -
3,1
•8
1
3
4
31 -
40
13
2
1
10
41 -
50
6
2
3
1
51 -
75
6
0
3
3
76 ^
100
2
0
0
2
101-
159
1
0
0
1
151-
200
.1
0
e
1
Over
200
2
1
1
0
Total 535 196 137 202
Source: <^estionnaire sent out by the Code Authority.
&:din
1/7/35
1171-13
those in Kew York ,nd the East, since 85 per cent of the shops
in Kew York City c.nd 80 per cent of those in the East employ
ten workers or less, while only a"bo"ut 70 per cent of the v;est-
ern firms are tiiis small.
The principal manufacturing centers are: New Yor^:,
Chicago, Stp Louis, and Phil:..delphia, These four markets in
1933 were responsisle respectively for 28, 13, 11 and 5 per
cent of tne Dusiness, and accounted alto'-;ether for 57 per cent
of tlie total doll.- r volume attained in that year.
The cap workers in the IJev; York markets are strong-
ly unionized, their union having signed up most of the firms
in the New York City area in an agreement v/hich provides fi»r
weekly wa^es (and for piecev/ork rates) ranging from $27 to
$40 for a <0-hour week. The other important cap making areas
ai .e not as highly unionized as the IJew York City area.
This small scale Industry, in contrast to such other
apparel industries manufacturing apparel such as cloaks and
suite, dresses and millinery, makes a fairly staple product.
Except for Few York, there is practically no contract \7ork,
the goods "being mtmufactured principally "by firms ovming or
leasing their -own quarters, .nd from their o\7n materials,
and not for the accounts of others.
. Both "tailoring" and "sectionalized" methods
1171-14
of production are followed and this seemi; to "be true of all
section, "but tailorint-j predoriiin;ites in llev: York City, and in
the very small shops vmerever loc.ted, v/hile sectional! zation
maiilis tne western centers of tiie Industry, especially in the
larger plants, (S'^e Table II for f-orther details on sectional -
ization).
It is an ur"ban Industry. More than that, it is not
an Industry fo-a::d to any appreciable e::tent in small toiims.
It is a big-city Inf'ustry. Table III shors tnat clorje to 90
per cent of the firms and about the s^j^ne proportion of the
workers are foiond in cities of over 250,000 poriulation.
Sources of, Inf qrrnatipn
The facts which emerj;e from the inquiries conducted
by the Commission derived from:
1, Public hearings, supjjl ement ed by briefs, report
and letters from raanufactui'ers, or their re-
presentatives.
2, Visits by the Commission to c.p factories in
the various markets, and interviews with em-
ployers and employees in these factories,
3, Statistical analysis of (l) payroll retv.rns
to the Code Authority supplemented by addi-
tional returns direct to the Commission, and
42) returns received upon tv/o questionnaires
distributed to members of the Industry,
Tne last-named sovsce is the cliief basis of tne re-
sults outlinte below. The Commission considered
1171-15
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11; important, hov/ever, to appraise e;nd iyterpret the fig-ores
in the light of what was said at hearings and in "briefs there-
on, and even more important, in its judgment, in the light of
its own first-hand observations ;-.nd contacts in the shops.
Trends in Business VolLi-me by Areas
The acid test of whether or not a given market has
suffered from the ("fair" or "imfair") competition of firms
in other markets can he made by examination of the reports
of members of the Industry on their unit and dollar volume of
production.
Using information supplied by 183 firms reporting
to the Code Authority v/e find the available business as
shown by dollar volume for 1933 and the first nine months
of 1934 distributed in the various areas as follows:
Area Per Cent of Total Dollar Volume
in Area Indicated
Jan. --Sept. 1954 1935_
llew York City 24.9 27.7
East (e.xcl. N.Y. State) 23.4 25.2
West. 51.7 46.1
U. S. '. 100.0 100.0
This shows that ITew York City's share of
1171-18
■business has appreci ."bly diminished, ; nd the -western areas
share of it apprecit-bly increased, since 1933, As to the
position of the East the dolla" vclu..ie data a~re inconclu-
sive, Viit indications are thjt certain -ocrtions of this
area like Boston and Philadelphia have mcide gains at the
expense of other portions of the eastern area.
Using unit vol'jme of ■jroduction as a measure of the
trend \ie find the following distrihution by areas for 1933
and nine months in 1934:
Year and Month PerCent^of Total Unit Vol"aine in Ai'ea
Indicated
U. S» .-^.gr_"^o rl: City East West
1933 100 37.4 ,33.7 43.9
27.8
26.1
27.7
28.2
26.7
29.7
29.7
32.2
25.8
22.8
These unit Volume figures indicate, as "between
Jan .-Sept.
(incl.)
1934
100
Jan,
1934
100
FelD.
1934
100
March
1934
100
April
1934
IGO
May
1934
100
June
1934
100
July
1934
100
August
1934
100
Sept,
1934
100
23.9
48.4
18.6
55.3
19.5
52.8
24.1
47.7
25.4
46.9
23.5
46.8
24.4
45.9
19.4
48.4
28.8
45,4
28.9
48,3
1171-19
1933 and the nhole nine month period in 1934, not so much a
loss of business by any area to any other as an aJr.- ,t com-
plete maintenance in 1954 of the 1033 apportionment. (For
details see Figure A).
Another indication of shift in "business after the
adoption of the Code is foijaid in the following tabulation, of
man-hours worked in each area.
Man-Hours^ Worked in per Cent
Change
September July to
Area
lIural5or ■
of ::
Man-]
Reporting
July
Firms
United States
87
105,812
New York City
'26
16,024
East
14
28,950
West
47
60,858
September.,
109,583 3.6
14,760 7,9
. 29,595 2.3
65,225 7.2
This table indicates that gains have been made
in the West at the expense of the New York City maimfac-
turers, the percentage loss in man-hours in New Yor^; City,
being almost the same as the gains in the West. (Further
details are given in Table IV) .
Distribution of Sales /Iccoraing to Areas
in Which Products are Sold
The extent to v/hich maniifacturers located in one
area sell in that area and other acreas is shown in Table
V-A, B.,C. D. E. and F. Inasmuch as actual sales
figures are not available a '.hypothetical distribution
1171-20
FIGURE A
SPECIAL COMMISSION FOR THE
CAP AND CLOTH HAT INDUSTRY
zj
DISTRIBUTION AMONG THE MARKETS OF
TOTAL PHYSICAL VOLUME OF CAP BUSINESS
JOO
I
Z
CO
OL
<
o
o
Ui
P.
z
It.
o
a:
UJ
SOURCE: «95^ 1934
REfHDRTiS TO SPECIAL COMMISSION AND RCPOBTS TO COOE AUTHORITY.
&\
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of sa.les was obtained "oy raultiplyini;; act-aEd production
fig^ures by the percenta<.:e3 vnich individual maniif acturers
estimated as the proportion of their sales made in each
ar ea .
These tables indicc^te the follo'.7ing facts:
1 . Three-fourths^ 2 f _ a]J._ ca^ s,,£rpduced_ar e_ sold
iig the eastern and v;estern areagj_ about t v'o-
thirds 0 f the rernsi nin.f;- -production beinis: so Id
in_ the southern -._nd one--th_ird in__the far-
western areas.
'The 174 firms reporting have an average
monthly produ.ction of 178,800 dozen caps;
approximately 58,000 dozen of these caps
are sold in the East, abcat 74,000 dozen
are sold in the Mid-West, 17,500 dozen
in the Par-West, end about 30,000 dozen in
the South. (Table V A) .
2, The total sales in each area are distributed
among New York City, eastern and v/estern
manufacturers as follov;s:
a. Almost three-fourths of all the caps
sold in the East are producEd inl'Iew
Ysrk City, the remainder being almost
evenly divided betvi'een the eastern
and western manufactiurers. (Ta.ble V B)
1171-23
CAP MP CLOTH HAT yiAMJFACTIIRIKG INDUSTBY
TABLE V - DISIRI3UTI0II OF SALES ACCOaDIIJ& TO ABEA
This ta'Dle shows the extent to which man-afact^irers located in one area sell
in other areas. In part A, are given the actual numlDer of fims and a
hypothetical monthly figure on sales ohtained "by ra-altiplying each manu-
facturers "oroduction ty the percentage of his sales made in each area. Thus
61 of the 64 reporting firms located in New York City sell monthly in the
East 41,569 dozen of a total production of 87,116 dozen caps, 29 firms sell
23,622 dozen in the Mid-West, etc.
In i^art E, the percentages of tne total caps sold in. the East "by firms locat-
ed in rTew York City, the East and the V/est are -shown; and similarly for the
Mid-Jest, Ear-i7est, and South.
In TDart C, the percent of the total caps produced in New York City which are
sold in each of the areas is shown, and similarly the percent of total caps
produced in the other areas which are sold in each area.
A. Num"ber of Jirms and Amount of Sales
Area in which Area in which sold
Produced
OT/iL
EAST
MID-WEST
FAR-TrTEST
SOUTH
Num"ber Number Num"ber Num"ber Numher Num'oer Num'ber Num'ber Nuraher ]]vnoi
of of doz- of of doz- ^f of doz- of of doz- of of d(
firms en caps firms en caps firms en caps firms en caps firms en a
sold sold sold sold scl(
New York
City
64
■ 87,115
61
41,569
29
23,633
9
7,188
18
14,73'
East
39
24,220
38
8,898
11
6,178
10
3,603
13
■5 , 54:
West
71
67,463
11
6,871
57
44,580
24
6,65C
14
9,36,
Total
174
178,799
lie
57 , 333
97
74,380
43
17,441
45
29_i64(
B. Percent of Total Sales In each Area Made "by
New York City, Eastern and Western Firms.
New York City 48.75^
East 13.6
West 37.7
Total 100.0
72. &p
15.5
12. 0
100.0
31.8^/i
8.3
59.9
100.0
41. 2f.
20.7
38.1
100.0
1171-21+
4S.7fs
18.7
31,6
100.0
C. Percent of Total Production of llev; York City,
Eastern ^md ViTestern Firms, Sold in Eacti Area.
Area in which
Produced
Area in
v/hich sold
llumter
of dozen
caps
sold
ll-am"ber
of dozen
caps
sold
llumlier
of dozen
. caps
sold
number
of dozen
caps
sold
iJumter
of dozsn
caps
sold
New York City
East
V/est
lOOfo
100
100
47.7^
36.7
. 10.2
27.1^
25.5
66.1
8 . 3fj
14.9
9.9
16.9/.
22.9
13.5
Total 100 32,1 ' 41.6 - 9.8 16.5
Source: CJaestiohnaire sentov.t by the Industry Reportin™ Unit, Research
and Planning' Division.
1171-25
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b. Sixty per cent of all caps sold in
the Mid-West are produced by western
manufactiirers, about half as much by
New York City foanufacturers, and less
than 10 per cent by eastern rnanu-
fact\irers. (Table V B) .
c. Of all the caps sold in the Far-West,
New York City and western manufactur-
ers produced about the same amounts
(40 per cent) and eastern manufactur-
ers approximately half as much.
(Table V B) .
d. Of all the caps sold in the South
approximately one-half were raanu-
fa'^-tured by New York City firms,
about a third by western manufactur-
ers, and the remainder (19,9 per
cent) by eastern manufacturers,
(Table V B) .
3. New York City, eastern and wes-tern firms
/ >> — "t-j — . — .
each dispose of their total production in
the varioTJ-S areas as follows:
a. New York City firms sell almost half
of their caps in the eastern aros,'
about one-fourth in the Mid-West,
and the remaining fourth in the
South and Far-West. (Table V C).
1171-29 About half of the I'ew York City firms
reporting sold all of their product
in the East. Those remaining New
:York City firms selling in the Mid-
West, Far-West and South sold indi-
vid'ually a comparatively small pro-
portion of their sales in these areas.
(Tatle V D). •
b. Eastern firms sell a little over one-
third of their production in the East,
one-fourth in the Mid-YJ'est and one-
fourth in the South, and the re-
mainder in the Far-West. (Table V C) .
About two-thirds of the reporting
eastern firms sold all of their pro-
duct in the East. Those remaining
eastern firms selling in the other
areas sold individually a relatively
small pro-ocrtion of their total sales
in. these areas. (Table V E) .
c. Western firms sell two-thirds of their
production in the Mid-West, and the
remainder about eqioally in the East,
Far-West and S«uth. (Table V C) .
Three-fourths of the reporting western
firms sold all of their -oroducts in the
1171-30
Mid-¥est or J'ar-West. Those remain-
ing western firms selling in the
i
East and South sold individually a
relatively small proportion of their
total sales in those areas, i, ' ble V E).
4 f
Distribution by Type of Outlet ■
The outlets through which the firms in each area
distribute their production are shovm in Table VI.
The outstanding facts revealed are:
1. Jobbers serve as the principal cutlet for
Kew York City manufacturers. ,
Of the total of 71 reporting firms in this
area 56 sold some of their products through
this channel as compared vith 19 t^f the 49
eastern manufacturers and 29 of the 83
; western manufacturers using this outlet.
Moreover, 40 of the 71 i:ew York City firms
sell all of their production. through Jobbers,
as, cempared with only 5 of the 49 ea. -'n
I and 7 of the 83 western manufacturers using
i this outlet for all of their product. This
is still f-urther emphasized by the fact that
43 of the 71 New York City firms sell more
than 80 per cent of their production through
jobbers contrasted with 7 of the 49 eastern
1171-31
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and 10 of the 83 western manuf actiirers
selling this amoimt through this outlet.
2. .Retail stores serve as the most important
outlet for manufacturers in the eastern
and western areas.
Whereas only 16 of the 71 rlew York City
firms make some of their sales to retail
stores, 37 of the 49 eastern and 65 of
the 83 western firms use this outlet for
at least some of their sales. Moreover,
15 of the 49 eastern firms ?nd 27 of the
83 western firsas sell 100 per cent of their
production throut;h retail stores as com-
pared with only S of the 71 New York City
firms. This is even more clearly brou,?;ht
out "by a comparison of the number of firms
in each area selling more than 80 per cent
of their production through retail stores:
24 of the 49 eastern, and 45 of the 83
western firms fall in this ,5:roup as com-
pared v,-ith only 7 of the 71 New York City
firms.
3 . Department. Chain and Mail Order Houses
serve as a more important outlet for
New York City than they do in the other
1171-33
areas Tput even here they are, relatively
lesn important.
This is shown ty the fact that 12 of the
71 New York City firms as compared with 3
of the 49 eastern and 7 of the 83 western
firms maive more than 60 per cent of their
total sales throiigh these outlets.
ILr oducWon of Various T:/T3es of Caps
The average monthly production of the various
types ef caps and the extent to which each type of cap
is produced in each area is shown in Tatles VII A, B
and C. • ■
The follo?/ing facts are "brought out by the
tables:
1. Of the total produ:;tion of all types of
caps . the western manufacturers produced
almost 45 per cent, the New York City manu-
facturers 41 per cent and the eastern manu-
fact-urers 14 per cent. (164 firms report-
ing an average total production of 152,428
dozen monthly — Table VII — A and B).
2. The most important types of caps in order
of dozens produced are: (Table VII C) .
a. Specialties such as hunting, helmets,
shop caps etc.-~27 per cent of the
1171-34
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Table VII (Cont'd')' ; ;
B. Percent of T_qtal Car)s of Ec-^ch Type v.-hich are Produced in Each Area
Percent of Total Gaps of Each Type Produced wMcxi: a^ - Produced In;
Type of Cap Uew York City East West ' T ; 1
Golf Ca-QS
$ .25
.39
.59
.69
.79
1.00
1.50
Others
TOTAI
39. 7<^.
61.6
35.6
41.3
37.4
42.7
41.0
29.4<b
6.8
10.4
8.2
9.1
10.1
18.9
-14.4
30. 3<^
31; 6
54 vO
91 JS
49.^6
52.?
38.5
44.6
100. Ofb
100.0*^.
100.0
100.0
100.0
100.0
100.0
100.0
_C. Percent _of Total Caps Produced in Each Area^Hch are _of Erch Type
Type of
Cap
'ercent of Total Caps Produced in Each Area which are of r^ach Type:
Few York City
Golf Caps
East
West
Total
$ .25
. .39
.50
.59
.69
.79
1.00
1.50
Others
TOTAI
14.
.3'^.
-16.
S-
4,
.7
0.
.8.
14.
,0
19.
.0
1.
,8
28.
,4
•30.lfi' ,
■■ 10. 5-;^
5.2
7.9
2.4
9.0
1.3
4.9
11.6
■ 19.5 ,
" 0.4
1.3
12.2
21.4
1.4
2.3
35.4
23.4
14. 8f.
11.1
6.2
2.7
16.1
0. :
19. J'
2-.0
27.0
100.0
100.0
100.0
Source: Questionnaires sent out hy the Industry Reporting Tnit, Division of
Research and Planning, National Recovery Adninistra tion.
Supplementary Questionnaires sent out hy Special Commission, and
Production Reports made to the Code Authority. ■• ':
1171-36
total production.
b. $1 golf cap - 19.3 per cent of the
total production.,
c. 69 cert {?;cll! cap - 16.1 per cent of the
total production.
d. 25 cent golf car) - 14,3 per cent of the
total product-ion.
e. 39 cent golf cap - 11.1 por cent of the
total production,
3. The most important golf caps in re s-oect to
the total dozens produced in each area are:
(Tahle VII C)
a. New York City - Specialties; over
one-fourth of all caps produced here.
Golf caps priced at tfl, and at 39 cents
are next in importance, comprising 19
and 17 per cent respectively of the total
production of this area.
"b. East - Atout one-third cf all the caps
produced in this area are specialties and
almost one-third are 25 cent golf caps.
c. 'Vest - The most important caps pro-
duced in this area are specialties,
$1 golf caps and 69 cent golf caps, each
comprising about 20 per cent of the
total production in this area.
1171-37
Total Cost (Excluding: Overhead)
The average total cost of manufacture for
a dozen caps (excluding overhead) is shown in Tatle VIII.
It will be noted the cost for western manu-
facturers is in every case lower than New York City;
it is about 13 per cent Icwer in the case of 25 cent
and 59 cent golf caps and about 7 per cent lower for the
39 cent and $1 caps.
In the Sast the total cost is 17 per cent lower
for the 25 cent golf cap than in New York City, and 3.5
per cent lower for the $1 golf cap; it is 3 per cent
higher, however, in the case of the 69 cent cap. It
should also be pointed out that for the 25 cent cap the
difference in cost is the greatest both in the East and
in the West. As brought out later the differences in
total cost are more largely accounted for by the dif-
ferences in the total direct labor costs than by differ-
ences in material costs - this in spite of the fact that
material costs comprise more than twice as large a part
of the total costs (excluding overhead) .
Material Costs
The average total material cost per dozen caps
for firms in the various areas is shown in Table VIII.
It is seen that the average material cost in
the West is for every important grade of golf cap 3 to
1171-38
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4 per cent lower than in New York City with the exception
of the 59 cent golf cap v/here it is 10 per cent lower.
In the East the average material cost is 3
to 4 per cent lower than in l>Tew York City for the 25 cent
and the $1 cap hut 15 per cent higher for the 69 cent
cap.
Direct Lahor Costs
The average total direct labor cost for the
firms in each area is shown in Table IX.
In the ¥est it is 5 to 10 per cent lower than
Few York City for the 39 cent, 59 cent and 69 cent golf
cap; for the 25 cent and $1 cap it is 25 per cent and
32 per cent lower res-nectively.
In the East the average total direct labor
cost is 4 per cent lower than New York City for the $1
golf cap, 11 per cent lower for the 69 cent cap and 32
per cent Icwer for the 25 cent cap.
It should be pointed out that the difference
in labor costs are greatest for both the East and the
West in the case of the, 25 cent golf cap.
Labor Casts for Individual Operations
The average labor costs for the firms in each
area for individual operations are shovm in Table X.
1171-40
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The outstanding fact brought out by this table is that a
few operations are responsible for the major part of the
differences in total direct labor costs pointed out
ab ove •
There are practic-illy no differences in labor
costs in every grade of golf cap for the operations of
blocking and packing. In the cases of linine making and
incidental operations such as button rnaJcing, etc.,
classed under Others, costs are slightly lower in the
East and West than in New York City,
Cutting costs vary considerably due to the
use of a wide variety of cutting machines and are not
consistently higher or lov/er in any one a.rea.
The differences in total labor costs are almost
completely . .acco'onted for by the differences in operations
comprised under the term "Operating,'' In the West
operating costs are consistently about 26 percent lower
than New York City for every grade of golf cap. In the
East operating costs 'ire 40 to 50 percent lower than in
New York City for the 25 cent and 39 cent golf caps and
about 50 percent lower for the 5S cent and 69 cent caps
and 13 percent lower for the $1 cap.
Mark- Up
Table VIII shows the average percent gross
1171-43
mai-l:-up for CacL t2Q3e of -olf c?p in e?.cla area.
It is Geoii tiat the average ver cent gross
ai3/j.i:-up in th.c 'Test for every iraoortant grade of golf
Can is over twice as luucl. as ixi i'^cv.' York City, except
for t'-e 69 cent golf cap v.'liere it is 25 per cent higher.
Tl^.c ir.arh-up in the East is a:':)proxi;-iatcly the
seme as in ITev/ York Cit^^ with the exception of the 25
cent cap.
Attention is callec to the fr^.ct that for the
25 cent cap an average of all tJ.e mark-ups of reporting
fin-fls in New York City gives an average mark-up 3 per
cent '5g1o^^ total costs not comiting overheacT. In this
city 4 of the 9 reporting fin.is v/ere selling this cap
at a loss, r.iis cor.iparcs with an average mark-up of
9.6 per cent for this cap in the East and 20.6 per cent
mark up in the West.
Selling and Freight Costs
The relative magnitude of selling ex onses
and freight charges in the three areas are indica.ted
in Tatle XI. From this taole the following- conclusions
:'iaj" he drawn:
1. Selling costs comprise slif-hitly smaller
"oer cent of the total overhead in hew York
City than in the e -'.stern or western areas. The
1171-44
CAP AND CLOTH EAT I;IA1.TIIFACTU3I !"& IlIDUSTP-Y
Ta^le XI - PHOPOETION OF TOTAL OVSHHSAD OF PPEI&HT MB SELLING COSTS, 1934
TliiG Tatlc . slicv/s t.xC relative proporation of tlie total overhead consiUTaed
"by selling and freigrit expenses in eacli area.
i
Iroaiiher of Firms with
specified per cent
cf total
i
overhead
Per cent of '
overhead
i
liEW YORK CITY
EAST
WEST
Selling
Freight
Selling
Freight
Selling
Freight
1
cost
cost
cost
I
0 - 9.9 !
3
21
2
18
2
39
10 - 19.9
2
2
2
12
12
13
20 - 39. 'J
4
8
1
19
S
40 - 49.9
5
-
.6
2
11
-
j
50 ana ■'lyer i
1
6
-
5
-
11
2
TcUl 1
18
23
24
33
55
63
J^^vr-jrr D3r !
csut of over-}
head !
i
— 1 1 —
29.4/i.
O.ofo
33.8fo
9.3fo
37.0fi
7.2^
Source: Q,uestic-.-i-aaire sent out hy the Industry Reporting Unit, Division of
Eesearch and Planning.
1171-45
average jier cent of the total overliea'd
consumed "by selling expense is 29.4 per
cent in New York City, 33.8 per cent in
the eastern area and 37 per cent in the
western area. Selling expenses constitute
from 10 to 50 per cent of the total over-
head for 9 of the 18 New York City firms,
16 of the 24 eastern firms and 42 of the
65 western firms reporting.
2. Freight casts comprise a slightly smaller
per cent of the total overhead in New York
City than in the eastern or western areas.
The average per cent of the total overhead
which freight costs comprise is 6.3 per cent
for New York City firms, 9.3 per cent for
eastern firms and 7.2 per cent for western
firms.
Sex of Employees and Sectionalization of Shops
Ta"ble XII indicates the relative proportion of
male and female workers employed in the various sections
of the country. This tahle shows that about one-fourth
of the workers in TSsrr York City, half of those in„the
East, and 60 per oen'b of those in the West are women.
Closely related to the large number of female
employees in the Industry, especially in the West, ia
1171-46
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the spread of the so-called "section work" shops.
Both in New York City and in the West ahout
43 per cent tf the reporting firms and 57 per cent of
the eastern firms followed section viovk methods. In
New York City 43 per cent, in the East 62 per cent and
in the West 65 per cent of the employees are working in
section shops,
WaiE;e Rates, Earnings and Employment
Hourly wage rates are highly important in this
Industry for tv;o reasons:
1. It is in terms of hourly rates rather
than in terms of weekly or monthly rates
that the minimxim standards ef wages pre-
scribed by the Code are set*
2. Assuming that the efficiency of labor
remains the same, hourly wage rates reflect
direct labor «osts. Tables XIII A and B
show the number and percentage of employees
receiving designated amounts per hour for
the weeks ending July 14 and August 11, 1934.
Thus in July, 87 per cent of al 1 of the
workers in the reporting firms in New York City,
48 per cent of those in the East and 30 per
sent of those in the West, earned 55 cents per
hour ar more. In August, the fcorresponding
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percentages earning this amount or more were 92 per
cent in New York City, 63 per cent in the East and
27 per cent in the West.
In view of the fact that this Code does not
provide for a weekly wage rate, earnings of employees
working only 10 hours a week are $5.50 in Hew York City,
area and $3.75 in the v;estern area. The data on weekly
earnings show to wliat extent employees in this Industry,
on account of lack of employment for full weeks, fall
short of making the nominal weekly- minima corresponding
to the mandatory hourly minima prescribed by the Code
and no less importantly to what extent they receive
weekly earnings adequate to cover the cost of a decent
livelihood.
In Table XIV there are shown the number of
^employees in each area who received in the designated
week amounts of earnings within the ranges specified. The
cumulative percentages of employees earning designated
amounts fcr the v;eek of August 11 are put in graphic form
in Figiire B. The graph shows that 40 per cent of the
cap makers in New York City, 74 per sent of those in the
East and 84 per cent of those in the West made earnings
of less than $20 during the v/eek ending August 11, 1934.
Referring ta Table XIV it is seen that the correspanding
percentages for the week ending July 14 are 64, 78 and 81
per cent for New York City, the East and the West, re-
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spectively, while for the week ended September 14 they
were 67, 79 end 87 per cent respectively. Figiore B
further indicates that the proportions of the workers
earning less tlian $10 and less than $15 per week, re-
spectively, are higher in the East and in the West than
in IJew York City.
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the prevailing rales are easily seen hy referring to the
relatively short number of hours worked per week "by these
employees. The earnings referred to above, therefore,
should be examined in connection with the data in Table XV
and Figure C. This table, for example, for the week
ending August 11, 1934, indicates that in New York City
and the West about 17.5 per cent of the "workers were
working less th^n 20 hours per week while in the East for
the same period, more than 35 per cent p,f the workers were
employed for this short work v/eek. The percentages fer
those working less than 30 ho'ors per week were much larger
being 36.6, 63.9 and 39.2 for ITew York City, the East and
the West, respectively.
Unfortunately, no data were secured from members
of the Industry in regard to yearly earnings. However,
some data have been compiled from the Census reports.
Table XVI shows the anniial average earnings ef cap em-
ployees in certain states. Kers again the eastern centers
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Sjpecial Coimui ssipn ^J"_The__Cap_&._ Clo th_Hat_ Industry
TABLE XVI
AVISAGE AIHiJAL ELUITIITGS Oi' WAC-E Ej'JllTZRS IN CAP
PAC^'OiilES, DI SELEC'xED STaTES
STATE
Connecticut
Maryland
Massacliusettc
Wev; Jersey
Nev/ York
Pennsylvania
Ohio
California
Illinois
Missouri
United States
$749
725
759
5?5
710
763
729
8S5
896
713
732
^1231 ■1929_
Average Ann-aa.1 Ea.rniiitS-^
1927
$1111
.1028
1096
923
•.1221
1105
877
1253
1064
871
1043
$1153
1100
1325
1150
1635
1315
1110
1310
1290
1000
1342
51410
1285
1345
1525
1330
1485
1135
1390
1500
1115
1610
SOUECE: Census of I.''anufact-arers
1. Figures shovm are estimates obtj.ined ty dividing the Census
figures for the amount paid in v;a'''es "by the average number
of \7age earners.
WAG : o q
1/10/34
1171-64
are shown to te providing not only higher hourly rates
and weekly earnings but also for the most part higher
annual earnings than western areas. Tahle XVII indicates
the amount t»f employment in the various areas. This tahle
shows that for the 153 reporting firms the average number
of weeks that the majority jf employees were employed full
time in 1933 was, in Few York City, 32.9 weeks, in the
East 35.5 weeks and in the West 40.8 weeks. They indicate-
the western workers have a differential advantage in re-
spect of amount of employment of 24 per cent over New York.
This differential is only a little more than 2/3 as wide as
the differential disadvantage they are under with respect
to. hourly rates. The worker in the East outside of New
York City appears to have about S per cent more employment
during the year than does the New York City employee, an
advantage v/hich, it should be noted, is not offset by
any differential in hourly rates under the Code as now
written.
Respectfully submitted,
Special Commission for the
Cap and Cloth Hat Industry
P. F. Brissenden, Chairman
Max Meyer
Wirt A. Gill
1171-65
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STJPPLEMEHTARY TABLES
Th.8 Tatles contained in this supplement
support with more detail summary tables contained
in the body of the report. For convenience in re-
ferring to them ea.ch tatle in the supplement is
given the same nur-iber as the Table to which it per-
tains (with the addition of a letter thereafter).
Thus IX-A refers tc Table IX in the body of the
report.
1171
CAP JUm CLOTH HAT lUUraTiCTUMHO IHtUSTHI
TABLE H - A. rWJrViriJAL PLAST TOTAL DIRECT LABOR COSTS AMD EFTICIENCIES
yi.
Tbe labor efflclenoy le compared rlth the labor coat (by dozene of caps) in the followlrig table. Each labor coat figure and the
oorreBpondlng ef£lclency figure appllee to one factory. Thle relation to one factory doee not hold true for the different price
groupB, I.e., one line aorose the page does not represent one factory only.
The labor costs are azTanged in ascending order.
25l<
Golf Cap
39(< 001/ C»P
59l«
ttolf Cap
69|i: Oolf Cap
tioo.
Golf Cap
Ar«a Coc
JV
Effloiency^
Labor,,
Cost y
4
Efflclencji/
Labor ,
Co.t i/
Efficiency^/
Labor
Cost i/
Efflclenoy 2/"
Labor
OOBt 1/
Erflolenoy2/
%
55
•
t .76
.
»1.07
21.4
« .63
30.1
81.51
16.6
59
-
■ 83
32.6
1.11
_
1.06
26.7
1.61
19.7
62
28.7
.89
33-'*
1.11
20.0
1.19
22.0
1.68
16. 5
90
•^•7
.98
27.1
1.15
21.5
1.30
20.2
1.74
21.0
92
1.04
22.5
1.15
29.0
1:1';
18.6
1.79
IS. 8'
9U
25 0
1.06
28.2
1.16
27.0
18.8
1.80
21.8
9U
32.7
27.4
1.06
30.3
1.19
19.3
25.4
1,46
22.5
1.81
21.8
1
0*
1.13
18.8
1.23
1.48
22.0
1.83
16. 7
1
04
31. S
1.13
29.0
1.27
19.1
1.49
21.5
1.85
19.7
1
04
32. S
1.16
26.5
1.28
25-5
1.5^
17.6
1.S5
20.1
-ow Tork City 1
28
23.6
1.17
25.0
l-M
26.7
A7.7
1.86
18.6
1.28
23.0
24.0
19.8
10.9
1.92
15.7
1.30
1.60
18.6
1.56
26.1
1.99
1.31
22.6
1.61
18.6
2.02
-
^■'4
25-3
l:'d
21.4
2.07
15.4
14.3
l!40
1.44
20.3
18.9
2.20
21.1
21.1
1-72
1.99
lU
1.48
21.0
1.62
30.4
2.04
21.4
50
32.3
.64
27.8
.75
11.5
■67
25.0
.83
_
35
24.2
1-54
22.0
1.07
10.0
.90
1.23
-
56
14.1
-
1.47
15.0
1.11
14T2
1.45
-
61
31-7
1.29
22.4
1.56
20.1
83
29. 5
l.OO
14.1
15.0
1.74
-
1.49
15-5
1.83
17-3
aat
1.50
2.02
-
I'H
2.08
-
13-5
2.11
11.8
l.i4
19.0
2.12
2.16
2.28
13.9
17.6
9.2
52
35.1
-.11
25-2
.89
21.2
.98
20.1
1.15
15.0
55
18.4
.99
17-7
.99 14.2
1.21
17-9
55
25.1
1.01
.
1.00
20.8
1.16 16.8
1.22
13.6
%
36.8
1.04
15.1
1.09
16.9
1.18 15.5
1.26
15.7
25.0
1.06
12.3
1.22
14.3
1.23 15-2
1.24 13.0
1.44
11.8
64
30.0
1.14
15.6
1.22
15. S
1.48
17.3
65
28.8
1.19
13.8
14.1
1.31
17. s
1.25 11.7
1.49
11-3
66
28.8
■ 1.27
1.25 l't.6
1.50
iU
68
-
1-53
11.3
1.32 17.6
1.50
68
-
1.32 15-5
1.52
lU
68
m
1.32 15-8
1.53
71
1.37 ' 13.3
1.56
11.7
test
I
I
25"?
29.2
21.0
19.2
1.3s , 10.0
1.41 11.2
1.44
1.44 15.1
1.47 12. 7
1.50 14.0
1.53 13-0
1^58
1.61
1.63
1.63
i:67
1.67
1.70
11.6
8.0
10.0
12.0
12.4
19.1
9.8
1-55
-
1.71
16.1
1.56
12.0
1.73
9.2
1.57
17.5
1.75
14.0
1-57
18.1
1.81
9.6
1.62
10.7
2.00
10.0
1.75
11.5
2.18
10.6
1.80
11.1
2.20
6.0
1.85
13.0
2.25
11.5
2/ Labor Coet - Amount of Total Direct Labor Coat per Doseo of Cape.
2/ Efflolaooy - Munber of Dozens of Cape per Eliployee per 40 Hour Week.
Source; Questlonoairea eent out by the Industry Rep^rtln^ Unit,
DlvlBlon of Research A Planning
" S a.
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._ 5
OFFICE OF THE NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION
THE DIVISION OF REVIEW
THE WORK OF THE DIVISION OF REVIEW
Executive Order No. 7075, dated June 15, 1935, established the Division of Revievif of the
National Recovery Administration, The pertinent part of the Executive Order reads thus:
The Division of Review shall assemble, analyze, and report upon the statistical
information and records of experience of the operations of the various trades and
industries heretofore subject to codes of fair competition, shall study the ef-
fects of such cedes upon trade, industrial and labor conditions in general, and
other related natters, shall make available for the protection and promotion of
the public interest an adequate review of the effects of the Administration of
Title I of the National Industrial Recovery Act, and the principles and policies
put into effect thereunder, and shall otherwise aid the President in carrying out
his functions under the said Title. I hereby appoint Leon C. Marshall, Director of
the Division of Revie*.
The study sections set up in the Division of Review covered these areas: industry
studies, foreign trade studies, labor studies, trade practice studies, statistical studies,
legal studies, administration studies, miscellaneous studies, and the writing of cede his-
tories. The materials which were produced by these sections are indicated below.
Except for the Code Histories, all items mentioned below are scheduled to be in mimeo-
graphed form by April 1, 1936.
THE CODE HISTORIES
The Code Histories are documented accounts of the formation and administration of the
codes. They contain the definition of the industry and the principal products thereof; the
classes of members in the industry; the history of code formation including an account of the
sponsoring organizations, the conferences, negotiations and hearings which were held, and
I'l-.c activities in connection Aith obtaining approval of the code; the history of the ad-
ministration of the code, covering the organization and operation of the code authority,
the difficulties encountered in administration, the extent of compliance or non-compliance,
and the gener?.l success or lack of succesr.^ of the code; and an analysis of the operation of
code provisions dealing ,vith wages, hours, trade practices, and other provisions. These
and other matters are canvassed not only in terms of the materials to be found in the files,
but also in terms of the experiences of the deputies and others concerned with code formation
and administration.
The Code Histories, (including histories of certain NRA units or agencies) are not
mimeographed. They are to be turned over to the Department of Co-nmerce in typewritten fora.
All told, approximately eight hundred and fifty (850) histories will be completed. This
number includes all of the approved codes and some of the unapproved codes. (In Work Mate-
ri al.° No. 18, Contents of Code Histories, will be found the outline which governed the
preparation of Code Histories. )
(In the case of all approved codes and also in the case of some codes not carried to
final approval, there are in NRA files further materials on industries. Particularly worthy
of mention are the Volumes I, II and III which constitute the material oflicially submitted
to the President in support of the recomiiiendation for approval of each code. These volumes
9768—1 .
- 11 -
set forth the origination of the code, the sponsoring group, the evidence advanced to sup-
port the proposal, the report of the Division of Research and Planning on the industry, the
recoimendations of the various Advisory Boards, certain types of official correspondence,
the transcript of the formal hearing, and other pertinent matter. There is also much offi-
cial inforination relating to aaiendinents, interpretations, exemptions, and other rulings. The
materials mentioned in this paragraph were of course not a part of the work of the Division
of Review. )
THE WORK MATERIALS SERIES
In the ,vori; of the Division of Review- a considerable number of studies and compilations
of data (other than those noted below in the Evidence Studies Series and the Statistical
Material Series) have been .lade. These are listed belojv, grcuped according to the char-
acter of the materia] . (In Work Materials No. 17, Tentative Qutline^ and Summaries of
Studies in Process, these materials are fully described).
Industry Studies
Automobile Industry, An Economic Survey of
Bituminous Coal Industry under Free Coopetition and Code Regulation, Econojiic Survey of
Electrical Manufacturing Industry, The
Fertilizer Industry, The
Fishery Industry and the Fishery Codes
Fishermen and Fishing Craft, Earnings of
Foreign Trade under the National Industrial Recovery Act
Part A - Competitive Position of the United States in International Trade 1927-29 through
1934.
Part B - Section 3 (e) of NIRA and its administration.
Part C - Imports and Importing under NRA Codes.
Part D - E.xports and Exporting under NRA Codes.
Forest Products Industries, Foreign Trade Study of the
Iron and Steel Industry, The
Knitting Industries, The
Leather and Shoe Industries, The
Lumber and Timber Products Industry, Economic Problems of the
Men's Clothing Industry, The
Millinery Industry, The
Motion Picture Industry, The
Migration of Industry, The: The Shift of Twenty-Five Needle Trades Free New York State,
1926 to 1934
National Labor Income by Months, 1929-35
Paper Industry, The
Production, Prices, Employment and Payrolls in Industry, Agriculture and Railway Trans-
portation, January 1923, to date
Retail Trades Study, The
Rubber Industry Study, The
Textile Industry in the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Italy, and Japan
Textile Yarns and Fabrics
Tobacco Industry, The
Wholesale Trades Study, The
Women's Neckwear and Scarf Industry, Financial and Labor Data on
9768—2
Women's Apparel Industry, Some Aspects of the
Trade Practice Studies
Commodities, Information Concerning: A Study cf NRA and Related Experiences in Control
Distribution, Manufacturers' Control of; Trade Practice Provisions in Selected MRA Codes
Distributive Relations in the Asbestos Industry
Design Piracy: The Problem and Its Treatment Under MRA Codes
Electrical Mfg. Industry: Price Filing Study
Fertilizer Industry: Price Filing Study
Geographical Price Relations Under Codes of Fair Competition, Control of
Minimum Price Regulation Under Codes of Fair Competition
Multiple Easing Point System in the Lime Industry: Operation of the
Price Control in the Coffee Indastry
Price Filing Under NRA Codes
Production Control in the Ice Industry
Production Controi , Case Studies in
Resale Price Maintenance Legislation in the United States
Retail Price Cutting, Restriction of, with special Emphasis on The Drug Industry.
Trade Practice Rules of The Federal Trade Commission (1914-1936): A classification for
comrarison with Trade Practice Provisions of NRA Codes.
Labo r Studies
Cap and Cloth Hat Industry, Commission Report on Wa_e Differentials in
Earnings in Selected Manufacturing Industries, by States, 1933-35
Employment, Payrolls.- Hours, and Wages in 115 Selected Code Industries 1933-193?
Fur Manufacturing, Commission Report on Wa;es and Hours in
Hours and Wa7;es in American Industry
Labor Program Under the Katior.al Industrial Recovery Act, The
Fart A. Introduction
Part B. Control of Hours and Reemployment
Part C. Control of Waies
Fart D. Control of Other Conditions of Employment
Fart E. Section ^(a) of the Recovery Act
Materials in the Field of Industrial Relations
PRA Census of Employment, June, October, 1933
Puerto Rico Needlework, Homeworkers Survey
Administrative Studies
Administrative and Le^al Aspects of Stays, Exemptions and Exceptions, Code Amendments, Con-
ditional Orders of Approval
Administrative Interpretations of NRA Codes
Administrative Law and Procedure under the NIRA
Agreements Under Sections 4(a) and 7(b) of the NTRA
Approve Cedes in Industry Groups, Classification of
Basic Code, the — (Administrative Order X-61)
Code Authorities and Their Part in the Administration of the NIRA
Part A. Introduction
Part B. Nature, Composition and Organization of Code Authorities
9768—2.
- iv -
Part C. Activities of the Code Authorities
Part D. Code Authority Finances
Part E. Summary and Evaluation
Code Compliance Activities of the NRA
Code Making Program of the NRA in the Territories, The
Code Provisions and Related Subjects, Policy Statements Concerning
Content of NIRA Administrative Legislation
Part A. Executive and Administrative Orders
Part B. Labor Provisions in the Codes
Part C. Trade Practice Provisions in the Codes
Part D. Administrative Provisions in the Codes
Part E. Agreements under Sections 4(a) and 7(b)
Part F. A Type Case: The Cotton Textile Code
Labels Under NRA, A Study of
Model Code and Model Provisions for Codes, Development of
National Recovery Administration, The: A Review of its Organization and Activities
NRA Insignia
President's Reemployment Agreement, The
President's Reemployment Agreement, Substitutions in Connection with the
Prison Labor Problem under NRA and the Prison Compact, The
Problems of Administration in the Overlapping of Code Definitions of Industries and Trades,
Multiple Code Coverage, Classifying Individual Members of Industries and Trades
Relationship of NRA to Government Contracts and Contracts Involving the Use of Government
Funds
Relationship of NRA with States and Municipalities
Sheltered Workshops Under NRA
Uncodified Industries: A Study of Factors Limiting the Code Making Program
Legal Studies
Anti-Trust Laws and Unfair Competition
Collective Bargaining Agreements, the Right of Individual Employees to Enforce
Commerce Clause, Federal Regulation of the Employer-Employee Relationship Under the
Delegation of Power, Certain Phases of the Principle of, with Reference to Federal Industrial
Regulatory Legislation
Enforcement, Extra-Judicial Methods of
Federal Regulation through the Joint Employment of the Power of Taxation and the Spending
Power
Government Contract Provisions as a Means of Establishing Proper Economic Standards, Legal
Memorandum on Possibility of
Industrial Relations in Australia, Regulation of
Intrastate Activities Which so Affect Interstate Commerce as to Bring them Under the Com-
merce Clause, Cases on
Legislative Possibilities of the State Constitutions
Post Office and Post Road Power — Can it be Used as a Means of Federal Industrial Regula-
tion?
State Recovery Legislation in Aid of Federal Recovery Legislation History and Analysis
Tariff Rates to Secure Proper Standards of Wages and Hours, the Possibility of Variation in
Trade Practices and the Anti-Trust Laws
Treaty Making Power of the United States
War Power, Can it be Used as a Means of Federal Regulation of Child Labor?
9768—4.
- V -
THE EVIDENCE STUDTES SERIES
The Evidence Studies were originally undertaken to gather material for pending court
casec. After the Schechter decision the project itas continued in order to assemble data for
use in connection with the studies of the Divisi:n of Review. The data are particularly
concerned with the nature, size and operations of the industry; and with the relation of the
industry to interstate comoierce. The industries covered by the Evidence Studies acctunt for
more than one-half of the total number ol workers under codes. The list oi those studies
follows:
Automobile Manufacturing Industry
Autojiotive Parts and Equipment Industry
Baking Industry
Boot and Shoe Manufacturing Industry
Bottled Soft Drink Industry
Builders' Supplies Industry
Canning Industry
Chemical Manufacturing Industry
Cigar Manufacturing Industry
Coat and Suit Industry
Construction Industry
Cotton Garment Industry
Dress Manufacturing Industry
Electrical Contracting Industry
Clortrical Manufacturing Industry
Fabricated Metal Products Mfg. and Metal Fin-
ishing and Metal Coating Industry
Fishery Industry
Furniture Manufacturing Industry
General Contractors Industry
Graphic Arts Industry
Gray Iron Foundry Industry
Hosiery Industry
Infant's and Children's Wear Industry
Iron and Steel Industry
Leather Industry
Lumber and Timber Products Industry
Mason Contractors Industry
Men's Clothing Industry
Motion Picture Industry
.Votor Vehicle Retailing Trade
Needlework Industry of Puerto Rice
Painting and Pap^rhanging Industry
Photo Engraving Industry
Plumbing Contracting Industry
Retail Lu.aber Industry
Retail Trade Industry
Retail Tire and Battery Trade Industry
Rubber Manufacturing Industry
Rubber Tire Manufacturins Industry
Shipbuilding Industry
Silk Textile Industry
Structural Clay Products Industry
Throwing Industry
Trucking Industry
Waste Materials Industry
Wholesale and Retail Fcod Industry
Wholesale Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Indus-
try
Wool Textile Industry
THE STATISTICAL MATERIALS SERIES
This series is supplementary to the Evidence Studies Series. Ih? reports include data
on establishments, firms, employment, payrolls, wajes, hours, production capacities, ship-
ac.il.-, sales, consumption, stocks, prices, material costs, failures, exports and imports.
They also include notes on the principal qualifications that should be observed in using the
data, the technical methods employed, ar.d the applicability of the material to the stidy of
the industries concerned. The following numbers appear in the series:
9768—5.
it;_; 5...
" r - *■
•■;< p.3ilqq„.
Sr.^Sd
- vi -
Asphalt Shingle and Roofing Industry Fertilizer Industry
Business Furniture Funeral Supply Industry
Candy Manufacturing Industry Glass Container Industry
Carpet and Rug Industry Ice Manufacturing Industry
Cement Industry Knitted Outerwear Industry
Cleaning and Dyeing Trade Paint, Varnish, and Lacquer, Mfg. Industry
Coffee Industry Plumbing Fixtures Industry
Copper and Brass Mill Products Industry Rayon and Synthetic Yarn Producing Industry
Cotton Textile Industry Salt Producing Industry
Electrical Manufacturing Industry
THE COVERAGE
The original, and approved, plan of the Division of Review contemplated resources suf-
ficient (a) to prepare some 1200 histories of codes and NRA units or agencies, (b) to con-
solidate and index the NRA files containing some 40,000,000 pieces, (c) to engage in ex-
tensive field work, (d) to secure much aid from established statistical agencies of govern-
ment, (e) to assemble a considerable number of experts in various fields, (f) to conduct
approximately 25% more studies than are listed above, and (g) to prepare a comprehensive
summary report.
Because of reductions made in personnel and in use of outside experts, limitation of
access to field work and research agencies, and lack of jurisdiction over files, the pro-
jected plan was necessarily curtailed. The most serious curtailments were the omission of
the comprehensive summary report; the dropping of certain studies and the reduction in the
coverage of other studies; and the abandonment of the consolidation and indexing of the
files. Fortunately, there is reason to hope that the files may yet be cared for under other
auspices.
Notwithstanding these limitations, if the files are ultimately consolidated and in-
dexed the exploration of the NRA materials will have been sufficient to make them accessible
and highly useful. They constitute the largest and richest single body of information
concerning the problems and operations of industry ever assembled in any nation.
L. C. Marshall,
Director, Division of Review.
9768—6.
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