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BOSTON  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


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OFFICE  OF  NATIONAL  RECOVERY  ADMINISTRATION 
DIVISION  OF  REVIEW 


REPORT  OF  THE  SPECIAL  COMMISSION  ON 
WAGES  AND  HOURS  IN  THE  FUR 
MANUFACTURING  INDUSTRY 


By 


Paul  Abelson 
Chairman 
Willard  E.  Atkins 
H.  LaRue  Frain 


WORK  MATERIALS  NO.  SIX 


March,  1936 


office  of  naiio:al  recovery  admin  I  station 
Division  OF  review 


REPORT  OF  TIE  SPECIAL  COMMISSION  ON 
WAGES  AND  HOURS  IN  THE  FUR  MANUFACTURING 
INDUSTRY 


By 

Paul  Abel son 

Chairman 

Willard  E.  Atkins 

H.  LaRue  Frain 


March,  1936 


9752 


FOREWORD 

This  report  of  the  Special  Commission  on  Wages  and  Hours  in 
the  Fur  .  Manufacturing  Industry  was  prepared  by  Messrs.  Paul  Abelson, 
Chairman,  UTillard  3.  Atkins  and  K.  LaRue  Prain* 

The  report  "as  made  in  January  1935  and  a  small  number  of  copies 
was  released  at  that  time.   It  is  here  reproduced  in  order  that  it 
may  "be  made  widely  available  to  students  in  the  labor  field. 

At  the  back  of  this  report  will  be  found  a  brief  statement  of 
the  studies  undertaken  by  the  Division  of  Review. 


L.  C.  Marshall 
Director,  Division  of  Review 


March  6,  1936 


9752 


January  22,  1935. 

Mr.  Leon  Henderson,  Director, 
Research  and  Planning  Division, 
National  Recovery  Administration. 

Dear  Sir: 

Herewith,  we  submit  our  report  containing  our  findings  and 
recommendations  and  the  data  on  which  said  findings  and  recommendations 
are  "based. 

The  Special  Fur  Commission  was  authorized  by  Administrative 
Order,  August  7,  1934,  to  recommend  on  the  basis  of  study,  investigation 
and  public  hearings,  modifications  of  Article  IV  of  the  Code  of  Fair  Com- 
petition for  the  Fur  Manufacturing  Industry  as  approved  on  May  19,  1934. 
The  Commission  was  authorized  to  make  such  recommendations  for  the  modi- 
fications of  definitions  of  the  respective  areas  and  recommendations  for 
the  modification,  change,  increase  or  decrease  of  the  differentials  of 
the  different  areas  as  are  deemed  necessary  to  promote  conditions  of  fair 
competition.   The  Order  further  authorized  the  Commission  to  investigate 
the  labor  conditions  in  the  related  industry  engaged  in  the  manufacture 
of  fur  articles  on  a  custom  basis  and  in  remodeling  and  repairing  of  fur 
articles  directly  to  the  consumer.   (See  Appendix  I,  Administrative  Order 
#436-10) 

The  functions  and  duties  of  the  Special  Fur  Commission  were 
subsequently  modified  by  the  Order  of  the  National  Industrial  Recovery 
Board  on  October  15,  1934,  malting  the  work  of  the  Commission  a  project 
of  the  Division  of  Research  and  Planning.   (See  Appendix  II) 

Work  of  the  Commission:  The  work  of  the  Commission  consisted 
of  the  following  phases:  (a)  studying  transcripts  of  the  hearings  held 
before  the  fur  codes  were  adopted;  (b)  study  of  the  methods  and  pro- 

1351  i 


-2- 


cesses  of  manufacture  in  typical  establishments;  (  c)  preparation  of  the 
questionnaire;  (d)  analysis  of  the  briefs;  (e)  study  of  compliance;  ( f ) 
study  of  statistical  materials  available;  (g)  comparison  of  standard  gar- 
ments; (h)  public  hearings;  (i)  study  of  the  petitions  filed  with  the  Ad- 
ministration requesting  exemptions  from  the  provisions  of  the  Code.   (See 
Appendix  III) 

The  Commission  held  public  hearings  in  Boston,  Buffalo,  Detroit, 
Chicago,  St.  Paul  -  Minneapolis,  Seattle,  San  Francisco,  Los  Angeles,  Kan- 
sas City,  Memphis,  Washington,  and  New  York  City.   Additional  investiga- 
tions were  held  at  Columbus,  Pittsburgh,  Baltimore,  and  Philadelphia.   The 
hearings  began  on  October  24,  195- ,  and  concluded  on  December  2,  1934. 

Since  the  hearings,  the  Commission  has  held  numerous  conferences 
to  get  a  complete  picture  of  the  situation  and  to  study  such  other  ele- 
ments in  the  economic  situation  as  tend  to  impair  the  conditions  of  fair 
competition  in  this  Industry. 

The  appendices  made  part  of  this  report  fully  reveal  the  com- 
plexities involved  in  the  situation  and  the  inherent  difficulties  which 
the  Commission  has  met  in  reaching  the  conclusions  which  we  herewith  . 
present. 

Respectfully  submitted, 

/S/  Paul  Abel  son,  Chairman 
/s/  Willard  E.  Atkins 
/s/  v.    LaPue  Frain 


1351  ii 


TABLE  OF  COiTTEIJTS 

Page 

sscTicn  • 

Recommendations  of  the  Special  Fur  Commission 1-3 

SECTION  II    '   ■  '  ' 

Description  of  the  Industry. ; . . .  i 

A.  IJature  of  Fur  Work : 1 

B.  Types  of  Establishments  Doing  Fur  Work 2 

I.  Fur  Garment •  Manufacturing 2 

1.  Wholesale' Establishments 2 

2.  Custom  Fur  Establishments 3 

5.   Retail  Fur  Shops 4 

4.  Specialty  Shops  and  Department  Stores 4 

5.  Miscellaneous  Establishments 5 

-  •  •       6.   Summary 5 

1 1 .  Fur  Trimming  Manufacturing 6 

1.  Wholesale  Establishments 6 

2.  Cloth  Coat  and  Suit  Establishments 6 

III.  Fur  Piece  Plate  Manufacturing 6 

Summary 7 

C.  Specialization  Within  Branches  of  the  Industry 7 

1.  Type  of  Fur. 7 

2.  Price  Range 7 

D.  Competitive  Aspects  of  the  Industry 8 

1.  Major  Branches  of  the  Industry 8 

2.  Between  Branches  of  the  Industry 8 

3.  Between  the  Industry  and  Cther  Lines  of  Busi- 

ness    9 

4.  Between  Geographic  Areas 9 

5.  Between  Employers  and  Employees 10 

6.  Between  Employees 10 

E .  Craft  Work 11 


1351 


in 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  (Cont'd) 

Page 
F.   Size  of  Business  Units 12 

1 .  Number  of  Craft  Workers 12 

2.  Volume  of  Business 12 

3.  Investment 12 


G-.   Specialization  of  Labor. . 1 


o 


In  New  York  City: 

A.  Cutters 13 

B.  Operators 14 

C.  Nailers. 14 

D.  Finishers •.  .  . .  14 

E.  First  and  Second  Class IS 

Outside  New  York  City: 

A.  Cutters i5 

B.  Multi-Craft  Workers I5 

C.  Operators 15 

D .  Fini  slier  s 1° 

Class  of  Work 1& 

H.   Seasonality 17 

1 .  Climate 1 ' 

2.  Style ....'. 17 

3.  Speculative  Nature  of  Prices 17 

4.  Credit 13 

I.  Prevailing  Vifages •. 18 

1.  Average  Hourly  Earnings I9 

2.  Weekly  Wages. 19 

J.   Prevailing  Hours 20 

K.  Mobility 21 

1.  Mobility  of  Establishments * 21 

2.  Labor... 22 


2 


L.   Compliance » 

M.   Statistical  Information 22 


1351  iv 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  (Cont'd) 
s  Page 


SECTION  III 

Reservation 


Issues  Involved  in  Classification ^ 

Zones  of  Agreement 2 

The  Issues 3 

G-eneral  Considerations ^ 

Complexity  of  the  Industry 

Conditions  in  New  York  City: 

Wholesale  Manufacturing  in  New  York  City 

New  York  Custom  Work 

Department  Store 

Conditions  Outside  New  York. City: 

Wholesale  Manufacturing 6 

Custom  Work 6 

Classified  Wages 7 

Problems  Involved 9 

The  Plate  Makers  -  An  Illustration  of  Classification  10 

Various  Systems 12 

A  Fighting  Tool  for  Labor 13 

The  Problem  of  Taking  Sides 12 

Standards  and  Enforcement 14 

Legal  Power  Versus  Economic  Power 15 

Suggested  program 18 

Conclusions 19 


Diagrams  -  Section  II 

Page 

Diagram   I  Types  of  Fur  7/ork 1(a) 

Diagram  II  Type  of  Establishments 2(a) 

Diagram  III  Interrelation  of  Fur  Work  and  Type  of  Establishment.  7(a) 
Diagram  IV  Competitive  Points  Between  Fur  Manufacturing  Industry 

and  other  Branches  of  Business 9(a) 


1351 


APPENDICES 


Page 


.  .  .     Appendix  I 

Fur  Manufacturing  -  Order  1-2 

Appendix  II 

Section  A  -  Statistical  Analysis  1 

I  -  Size  of  the  Sample  1 

II  -  Wages  6 

.III  -  Hours  26 

IV  -  Size  of  Establishments  29 

V  -  Importance  of  Repairing 

.  and  Remodeling  Work  33 

Section  B  -  List  of  Petitioners  for 

Exemption  34 


1351  vi 


LIST  OF  TABLES 
Appendix  II 

Table  Page 

I  NUMBER  OF  QUESTIONNAIRES  MAILED,  UNCLAIMED  RETURNS,  USABLE 

A1TD  UNUSABLE  REPLIES 3 

II  NUM3ER  AND  PERCENTAGE  OF  FIRMS  AIT)  OF  CRAFT  WORKERS,  BY 

STATES  AND  IN  NEW  YORK  CITY,  COVERED  BY  USABLE  REPLIES  TO 
QUESTIONNAIRE 4 

III  NUMBER  AND  PERCENTAGE  OF  OF AFT  WORKERS  COVERED  BY  QUESTION- 
NAIRE REPLIES 5 

IV  NUMBER  AND  PERCENTAGE  OF  WORKERS  COVERED  BY  QUESTIONNAIRE 

REPLIES  IN  AND  OUTSIDE  NEW  YORK  CITY,  BY  CRAFTS 5 

V  MEASURES  OF  CENTRAL  TENDENCY  AND  DISPERSION  OF  AVERAGE 
HOURLY  AND  FULL-TIME  WEEKLY  EARNINGS  IN  AND  OUTSIDE  NEW 
YORK  CITY  BY  CRAFTS  AS  SHOWN  EY  REPLIES  TO  COMMISSION'S 
QUESTIONNAIRE  AND  FOR  AVERAGE  HOURLY  AND  ACTUAL  WEEKLY 
EARNINGS  OF  ALL  FUR  FACTORY  WORKERS  AS  SHOWN  BY  CENSUS  DATA   6v&) 

VI  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  FOR  FACTORY  WORKERS 
IN  THE  FUR  TRADE  AS  SHOWN  BY  CENSUS  DATA  FOR  REPRESENTA- 
TIVE WEEK  IN  OCTOBER  1922,  A^D  BY  SPECIAL  FUR  COMMISSION 
DATA,  WEEK  OF  SEPTEMBER  24-2?  ,  1934 n 

VII  NUMBER  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS  FROM  WAGE  DATA  AND  OF  FACTORY 

WORKERS  COVERED  BY  CENSUS  DATA  FOR  REPRESENTATIVE  WEEK  IN 
OCTOBER  1932,  AND' BY  COMMISSION  DATA  FOR  WEEK  OF  SEPTEMBER 
24-29 ,  1934 12 

VIII  AVERAGE  HOURLY  A1TD  WEEKLY  EARNINGS  FOR  MALE,  FEMALE  AND 

TOTAL  FACTORY  WORKERS  IN  RETAIL  FUR-  TRADE  BY  MAJOR  SECTIONS 

OF  TEE  COUNTRY,  1929 ,  1932  and  1933 l3 

IX-A  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  IN  AND  OUTSIDE  OF  NEW 

YORK.  CITY  BY  CRAFTS,  SEPTEMBER  24-29,  1934  (10^  Intervals)   14 

IX-B  PERCENTAGE  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  IN  AND  OUT- 
SIDE OF  NEW  YORK  CITY  BY  CRAFTS,  SEPTEMBER  24-29,  1934  (10(£ 
Intervals)  ....,,,,..,..,... ^° 

IX-C  CUMULATIVE  PERCENTAGE  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES 
IN  AND  OUTSIDE. NEW  YORK  CITY,  BY  CRAFTS,  SEPTEMBER  24-29, 
1934.  ( 10£  Intervals) 16 


1351  vii 


LIST  OF  TABLES 
(Cont'd) 

Table  _  Page 

X-A  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  IN  AND  OUTSIDE  OP  HEW 

YORK  CITY  BY  CRAFTS,  SEPTEMBER  24-29,  1934  (15£  Intervals)   1? 

X-B  PERCENTAGE  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  III  AND  OUT- 
SIDE OF  NE"w  YORK  CITY  BY  CRAFTS,  SEPTEMBER  24-29,  1934  (15fJ 
Intervals) 13 

X-C  CUMULATIVE  PERCENTAGE  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES 
IN  AND  OUTSIDE  OF  NEW  YORK  CITY,  BY  CRAFTS,  SEPTEMBER  24- 
29,  1934  (15(£  Intervals) 19 

XI-A  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  FOR  FACTORY  WORKERS  IN 
THE  RETAIL  AND  WHOLESALE  EUR  TRADE  3Y  SPECIFIED  STATES  AND 
CITIES  FOR  A  REPRESENTATIVE  WEEK  IN  OCTOBER  1932T 20 

XI-B  PERCENTAGE  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  FOR  FACTORY 
WORKERS  IN  THE  RETAIL  AND  WHOLESALE  FUR  TRADE  BY  SPECIFIED 
STATES  AND  CITIES  FOR  A  REPRESENTATIVE  WEEK  IN  OCTOBER  1932  21 

XII  PERCENTAGE  OF  CRAFT  WORKERS  RECEIVING  SPECIFIED  AVERAGE 

HOURLY  RATES  OR  LESS 22 

XIII  DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  FOR  FEMALE  FINISHERS 

IN  AND  OUTSIDE  NEW  YORK  CITY,  SEPTEMBER  24-29,  1934 23 

XIV  DISTRIBUTION  OF  FULL  TIME  WEEKLY  WAGES  FOR  CRAFT  WORKERS  IN 

FUR  MANUFACTURING  INDUSTRY,  SEPTEMBER  24T29 ,  1934 24 

IV  AVERAGE  YEARLY  EARNINGS  FOR  FACTORY  WORKERS  IN  "./HOLE SALE 
AND  RETAIL  ESTABLISHMENTS,  BY  STATES  OR  CITIES,  1929-1933 
INCLUSIVE 25 

XVI  DISTRIBUTION  OF  .i'ORKING  TIME  PER  WEEK  IN  AND  OUTSIDE  NEW 
YORK  CITY  BY  NUMBER  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS  AND  BY  NUMBER  OF 
CRAFT  WORKERS ,  SEPTEMBER  24-29  ,  1934 27 

XVII  AVERAGE  WEEKLY  HOURS  OF  MALE,  FEMALE  AND  TOTAL  FACTORY 

WORKERS  IN  THE  RETAIL  FUR  TRADE,  BY  MAJOR  SECTIONS  OF  THE 
COUNTRY,  1929  ,  1932  and  1933 28 

XVIII   SIZE  OF  FUR  MANUFACTURING  ESTABLISHMENTS  3Y  NUMBER  OF  CRAFT 

WORKERS ,  SEPTEMBER  24-29 ,  1934 30 


1351  viii 


LIST  OF.  TABLES 
(Cont'd) 


Table 


Page 


XIX  AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF  MALE,  FEMALE  AND  TOTAL  FACTORY  WORKERS 
IN  TILE  RETAIL  FUR  TRADE  BY  MAJOR  SECTIONS  OF  THE  COUNTRY, 
1929  ,  1932  and  1933 sl 

XX  SIZE  OF  FUR  MANUFACTURING  ESTABLISHMENTS  BY  VOLUME  OF  MAN- 
UFACTURING-. .  1933 32 

XXI  VOLUME  OF  REPAIRING  AND  REMODELING  COMPARED  WITH  TOTAL 

VOLUME  FOR  MANUFACTURING  IN  NEW  YORK  CITY  AND  OUTSIDE  NEW 

YORK  CITY,  1933 37(a) 


1351 


IX 


SECTION     I 


1351-A 


section  i 

NECOMLCNDATIONS  OF  SPECIAL  FUR  COMMISSION 

a.  IF  A  POLICY  OF  CLASSIFICATION  is- adopted  for  this  Industry,  if  is 
unanimously  recommended:  .  . 

I.   That,  in  general,  the  major  branches  of  fur  article  manufactur- 
ing be  treated  as  a  unit,  these  branches  include  the  wholesale  and  cus- 
tom manufacturing  ox  fur  garments,  the  manufacturing  of  fur  trimmings, 
and  the  repair  and  remodeling  of  fur  garments. 

11(a).  That  basic  hours  be  made  uniform  for  the  entire  Industry, 
and  that  provisions  for  overtime  be  uniform. 

11(b).   That  the  basic  week  shall  be  .35  hours.   _ 

II (c)   That  10  hours  overtime  per  week  for  10  weeks  in  a  calendar 
year  at  one  and  one-half  times  the  basic  rate  of  pay  be  permitted. 

11(d).  That  further  overtime,  at  not  less  than  twice  the  classi- 
fied rate  of  t>ay  shall  be  permitted  upon  application  to  a  neutral  body, 
providing  (1)^ applicant  is  complying  with  the  Code,  and  (2)  snows  in- 
ability to  obtain  the  type  of  labor  required. 

III.  That  the  following  areas  be  established: 

(a)  For'  fur  garment  manufacturers: 

Area  A  to  include  Hew  York  City. 

AreaJB  to  include  Chicago  and  Hew  York  Metropolitan  Area 
outside  of  Hew  York  City. 

Area  C  to  include  the  entire  country  outside  of  Area  A  and  3. 

(b)  F-)r  fur  trimming  manufacturers: 

Area  A  to  include  Hew  York  City  Metropolitan  Area. 
Area  3  to  include  the  entire  country  outside  of  Area  A. 

(c)  For  fur  piece  plate  manufacturers: 

That  the  entire  country  be  treated  as  a  unit. 

IV.  That  the  v/age  rates  set  forth  in  the  following  table  be  estab- 
lished: 

V,  Exceptions. 

(a)   Establishments  in  Area  3  whose  fur  work  is  in  direct  response 
to  orders  or  instructions  of  ultimate  consumers  and  not  employing  more 
than  two  craft  workers  shall  be  subject  only  to  the  general  minimum  rate 
of  40  cents  per  hour. 


1351-A 


-2- 

(b)  Establishments  in  Area  B  doing  only  custom  work,  including 
repairing  and  remodeling,  and  employing  not  more  than  six  craft  work- 
ers including  proprietors,  partners,  and  executives  who  do  craft  work, 
shall  be  subject  to  the  wage  provisions  of  the  General  Retail  Code. 

(c)  Establishments  in  any  area  whose  fur  work  is  limited  to  the 
alteration  of  fur  garments  at  the  time  of  sale  to  the  ultimate  consumer, 
or  establishments  in  which  such  work  is  segregated  from  manufacturing 

of  new  garments  and  the  repair' and  remodeling  of  old  garments,  may  be 
subject  to  the  horn-  and  wage  provisions  of  the  General  Retail  Code  for 
such  work. 

VI.  Neutral  .Agency.   There  shall  be  a  neutral  body  to  consider  and 
recommend  to  the  Administration  relief  in  cases  of: 

(a)  Applications  for  overtime  in  excess  of  10  hours  a  week  for 
10  weeks  in  a  calendar  year. 

(b)  Applications  of  establishments  for  exemptions  from  speci- 
fied rates  in  cases  of  undue  and  unusual  hardships. 

VII.  Definitions. 

(a)  A  multi-craft  worker  is  a  craft  worker  doing  any  two  or 
more  of  the  following:  (l)  operating,  (2)  nailing,  (o)  finishing,  and 
(4)  cutting  on  skins  of  inferior  grades  below  Hudson  Seal  and  in  con- 
nection with  repairing ■ and  remodeling  work. 

(b)  A  finisher's  helper  is  one  who  sews  in  linings  and  does 
other  work  on  garments,  of  an  incidental  nature,  such  as  sewing  en 
buttons  and  making  loops,  either  on  new  garments  or  on  repair  and  re- 
modeling jobs.   To  be  entitled  to  a 'finisher's  helper,  an  establish- 
ment must  have  at  least  one  finisher. 

(c)  A  learner  is  one  who  has  had  no  previous  experience  in  the 
Industry.  During  the  first.  16  weeks  of  learner's  status,  the  rate  of 
pay  mast  be  advanced  according  to  the  schedule,  and  if  enrol oyment  con- 
tinues after  the  16th  week,  the  individual  must  be  classified  not  low- 
er than  a  finisher's  helper.  An  establishment  may  have  at  least  one 
learner  if  it  has  a  finisher.   If  it  has  a  finishing  force  of  more  than 
six  finishers  and  helpers,  it  may  have  one  learner  for  each  six,  not 
including  apprentices. 

B.  -IE  A  POLICY  OE  CLASSIFICATION  is  not  adopted,  it  is  the. majority 
recommendation. 

I.  That  all  branches  of  fur  article  manufacturing  be  treated  as 
a  unit.  ..   , 

Il(a).   That  basic  hours  be  40  ioer  week  throughout  the  Industry. 

11(b).   That  overtime  shall  be  corrroensated  for  at  a  rate  of  not 
less  than  one  and  one-half  times  the  basic  minimum  rate. 

III.   That  the  country  as  a  whole  be  treated  as  two  areas. 
1351-A 


-2-A- 


I 

i 


1351-i, 


-o- 


IT.      That   the  basic  minimum  rate  of  -oay  shall  not  "be  less   than 
$14.00  per  week  in  cities   of  100,000  population  or  more  and  not  less 
than  $12.00  in  other  places. 

C.      These  recommendations   are   to  be  considered  as  minimum,  scales  only, 
The-  in  no  sense  are   to   exclude   the  possibility  of  workers,    eitxier' 
by  individual  or  collective  contracts,    arranging  for  higher   scales. 


1351-A 


S  3  C  T   I   0 


II 


1351-B 


SECTION  II 
DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  INDUSTRY 

.  A.   NATURE  OF  FUR  WORK 

Skins  of  fur-bearing  animals,  after  "being  dressed  and  dyed,  are 
used  in  making  a  variety  of  fur  articles.  The  main  use  occurs  in  making 
coats,  and  to  a  lesser  extent,  such  wearing  apparel  as  capes,  scarfs  and 
muffs.  They  are  also  used  in  making  collars,  cuffs  and  other  trimming 
for  cloth  coats,  suits,  and  dresses.  Other  uses  include  caps,  robes, 
and  fur  novelties  such  as  kittens  and  dogs. 

In  mailing  wearing  apparel,  especially  coats,  the  usual  separation 
of  wholesale  and  custom  manufacturing  does  not  disclose  satisfactorily, 
for  the  present  purpose,  the  nature  of  work  done  in  fabricating  furs. 
Possibly,  the  most  hopeful  approach  distinguishes  work  done  on  new  as 
against  old  garments. 

New  articles  may  be  made  under  two  conditions  with  respect  to  sale. 
They  may  be  made  in  anticipation  of  demand,  or  they  may  be  made  in  res- 
ponse to  demand,  particularly  of  ultimate  consumers.   (See  Diagram  No.  I) 

Those  garments  made  in  anticipation  of.  demand  may  be  either  com- 
pletely or  partly  finished,  prior  to  sale.  The  completely  finished  gar- 
ment, made  in  advance  of  sale,  may  be  made  for  stock  *r  for  sample  and 
display  purposes.  Nothing  in  the  manufacturing  process  indicates  the 
purpose  for  which  a  garment  is  being  made.   The  key  to  the  difference  is 
generally  the  number  of  garments  made  to  a  given  size  and  pattern.  Only 
one  or  a  few  garments  of  a  kind  are  made  for  sample  or  display  purposes, 
whereas  a  larger  number  is  likely  to  be  made  for  stock. 

Partly  finished  garments  are  made  in  anticipation  of  sale.  Usually 
the  body  of  the  garment  is  made  with  rather  standardized  sizes  and  pat- 
terns in  mind.  At  a  subsequent  time,  these  "shells"  are  turned  into 
finished  garments  as  occasion  requires  by  adding  collars  and  sleeves  of 
such  patterns  as  buyers  dictate. 

Then  garments  are  made  in  advance  of  sale,  there  is  usually  some 
alteration  necessary  to  meet  the  requirements  of  individual  users.  These 
alterations  are  similar  in  nature  to  those  designated  as  "busheling"  in 
the  altering  of  cloth  garments.  For  example,  the  sleeves  may  be  too 
long  and  require  shortening,  the  body  may  be  too  full  and  must  be  taken 
in  or  the  collar  is  too  high  and  must  be  lowered.  Thus,  the  alteration 
extends  from  changing  the  location  of  a  button  to  altering  the  shape  and 
size  of  the  garment  itself.  In  custom  manufacturing,  the  alterations 
are  done  in  the  process  of  making  the  garments, 

TTnile  the  most  important  work  on  new  articles  occurs  in  the  fabri- 
cating of  skins  into  wearing  apparel,  either  as  garments  or  as  trim- 
mings, there  is  also  some  fur  work  done  in  making  "piece  plates."   In 
the  course  of  making  garments  or  trimmings,  there  are  waste  cuttings 
which  are  sewed  together  into  piece  plates.  These  waste  pieces  are  pur- 
chased and  collected  by  establishments  specializing  in  manufacturing 
piece  plates.  The  plates  themselves  are  used  in  making  lining  for  coats, 

1351-3 


-2- 

especially  men's  coats,  trimmings,  caps  and  novelties.   In  some  instan- 
ces, even  garments  have  been  made  from  them. 

The  more  valuable  the  fur  in  a  garment,  the  more  likely  the  garment 
is  to  be  remodeled  from  time  to  time  in  conformity  with  style  changes. 
In  this  process,  new  skins  may  have  to  be  inserted,  and  new  parts  may 
be  added,  such  as  collars  and  cuffs.  Nearly  all  fur  articles,  especial- 
ly the  cheaper  ones,  require  repairing  from  time  to  time.   This  may  in- 
volve sewing  a  rip,  replacing  worn  r.kins  or  altering  the  garment  to  con- 
ceal the  worn  parts.   There  is  virtually  no  remodeling  of  cheaper  gar- 
ments, since  the  cost  of  remodeling  would  be  proportionately  high  in 
relation  to  a  new  coat. 

The  relative  importance  of  repairing  and  remodeling  may  be  judged 
by  both  the  number  of  establishments  doing  it  and  the  extent  to  which 
they  do  it,  An  analysis  of  questionnaires  indicates  that  for  reporting 
firms,  repairing  and  remodeling  is  (1)  more  important  for  establishments 
outside  of  New  York  City  than  in  New  York  City  and  (2)  more  important 
for  the  smaller  than  the  larger  establishments.  A  further  analysis  of 
thjs  point  is  found  in  the  Appendix. 

prom  the  above  description,  it  appears  that  a  variety  of  work  is 
involved  in  fabricating  skins  of  fur -bearing  animals  into  useful  ar- 
ticles, mainly  wearing  apparel.   Such  variety  of  work  gives  rise  to,  and 
is  accompanied  by,  different  types  of  establishments.   The  resulting 
interrelation  is  important  in  formulating  a  workable  concept  of  manu- 
facturing for  codal  'regulations  in  this  Industry. 


B.   TYPE  0?  ESTA31I3M^i^S  DO  INS  FUR  WORK 

Not  only  is  there  a  wide  variety  of  fur  work,  but  this  work  is  done 
by  various  kinds  of  establishments.  In  some  of  these  establishments, 
fur  work  is.  the  predominating  business,  while  in  others  it  is  combined 
with  an  appreciable  amount  of  retailing,  either  of  furs  alone  or  of 
other  merchandise  also,  as  in  department  stores.   In  these  retailing 
establishments,  fur  work  may  be  a  small  or  even  negligible  part  of  the 
entire  business.   There  is  no  currently  accepted  terminology  which  is  a 
satisfactory  clue  to  the  nature  of  the  fur  work  done  in  these  various 
establishments.   (See  Diagram  No.  II) 

I.   PUR  GARMENT  MANUF  AC  TURING 

la   Wholesale  Establishments 

Wholesale  manufacturing  of  garments  is  centered  almost  entire- 
ly in  New  York  City.   It  is  doubtful  if  as  much  as  ten  per  cent  of  the 
total  is  done  outside  of  this  city.  For  the  most  part,  these  establish- 
ments manufacture  stock  garments  in  quantities  in  anticipation  of,  and 
in  response  to,  orders  received  from  jobbers,  department  stores,  special- 
ty shops  and  fur  shops,  etc. 

Few,  if  any,  establishments  confine  themselves  to  wholesale 
business.  Most  of  them  engage  to  some  extent  in  doing  custom  work  or 

1351-B 


-2-B- 


DIAO«AM      I 


R  1A 


New  Articles  « 


Garments  and 
Trimmings 


In  anticipation 
of  demand 


'  In  response 
I  to  demand 


Plates  -  -  In  anticipation 
of  demand 


FOR  WORK  ON   < 


Old  Articles  -  Garments 


In  response 
to  demand 


("Completed  (stock 

article  1  Sample  or  display 

[Partly  fin- 
l  ished  article 

{Altering 
stock  articles 
Mew  articles 
{Skin 
Piece*, 


Remodeling 


[Repairing 


DIAGRAM  SHOWING  TYPES  OF  FUR  WORK 


1351-3 


-2-C- 


P.    4A 


DIAGRAM     II 


TIPS  OF 
SSTABUSaUttT 


Pur  Business  — 

Entire, or 
Predominate 
Part  of  entire 
business 


Pabrication  < 


Retail 


Wholesale       (Garment  & 

establishments  1 

^Trimming 

Custom  establishments 


Custom  establishments 
Retail  fur  shops 


Pur  Business  - 
Part  of  entire 
business,  but  not 
a  major  part 


Fabrication 


Retail 


Specialty  stores 
Dept.  stores 

(Tailoring 
liu    J  Cleaning 
Mlsc-  | Laundry 

[storage 


[specialty  stores 
I Dept.   stores 


DIAGRAM  SHOWING  TYPE  OF  ESTABLISHMENT 


1351-3 


-3- 

its  equivalent.   In  part  this  arises  from  the  fact  that  many  of  the 
furriers  in  the  small  cities  and  towns  throughout  the  country  advertise 
themselves  as  custom  furriers,  "but  are  not  equipped  to  do  the  actual 
custom  work  themselves.  They  take  the  measurements  for  the  individual 
customers  and  send  these  measurements  to  a  wholesaler  in  New  York  City. 
If  the  specifications  conform  fairly  well  to  a  garment  in  stock,  such  a 
garment  is  vised  with  appropriate  alterations.  If  a  stock  garment  can- 
not he  used,  then  a  new  garment  is  built  especially  for  this  customer. 
The  wholesale  establishments  not  only  do  such  work  for  members  of  the 
trade,  but  also  for  sxich  ultimate  buyers  as  may  come  to  them  directly 
through  the  suggestions  of  friends  and  acquaintances.   Thus,  so  far  as 
new  work  is  concerned,  the  wholesaler  carries  on  fur  work  both  in  antici- 
pation of  demand  and  in  response  to  demand,  for  both  trade  customers 
and  individual  consumers. 

TTholesale  establishments  also  do  remodeling  and  repairing  work  on 
old  garments.  Such  activities  do  not  ordinarily  constitute  an  important 
part  of  a  wholesale  establishment's  business.   In  periods  of  inactive 
business,  the  wholesaler  is  more  likely  to  encourage  such  business  than 
when  he  is  reasonably  busy  with  new  work.  Generally,  repairing  and  re- 
modeling work  is  done  on  a  more  or  less  service  basis  to  his  trade  cus- 
tomers.  Thus,  if  a  specialty  store  in  say,  Columbus,  Ohio,  obtained  an 
order  to  remodel  a  mink  coat,  the  local  establishment  would  probably 
send  the  job  to  its  mink  wholesale  house  in  Hew  York  City  and  that  es- 
tablishment would  do  the  remodeling  as  a  service  activity  for  its  cus- 
tomer in  Columbus.   Such ' servicing  is  one  of  the  means  by  which  contacts 
are  maintained  between  the  wholesaler  and  his  retail  outlet. 

From  the  above,  it  appears  that  the  wholesale  establishment  does 
not  restrict  itself  to  wholesale  manufacturing.   In  addition,  some  houses 
do  custom  manufacturing,  retailing,  repairing  and  remodeling.  Some  do 
these  things  secretly  while  others  do  thorn  openly.   Some  of  them  claim 
that  they  do  it  only  under  special  circumrtances,  while  others  admit 
that  they  will  accept  any  business  they  can  get.   In  short,  the  activ- 
ities carried  on  by  wholesale  establishments  tend  to  run  the  entire 
gamut  of  activities  with  respect  to  fur  work.  .  • 

2 . #  Custom  For  Establishments 

Custom  establishments  are  distinguished  from  wholesale  estab- 
lishments not  so  much  by  what  they  do,  as  by  the  extent  to  which  they  do 
it.   Especially  with  fine  garments,  the  entire  garment  is  likely  to  be 
made  after  the  order  has  been  received  and  in  conformity  with  the  cus- 
tomer1 s.  measurements,  and  specification  as  to  style,  finishing,  etc. 
Such  completely  individual  attention  is  not  given  to  perhaps  most  of  the 
garments  made  by  the  custom  furrier.   In  the  first  place,  the  furrier 
can  anticipate  some  of  his  requirements.  He  can,  for  example,  make  skin 
plates,  which  means  he  can  sew  skins  together  into  pieces  sufficiently 
large  to  permit  the  subsequent  cutting  of  various  parts  of  a  specially 
ordered  garment.   Indeed,  he  can  anticipate  even  more  than  this.  Most 
custom  garments  call  for  clearly  standardized  parts,  such  as  backs,  and 
sides.   Consequently,  these  parts,  called  a  "plate",  may  be  made  in 
advance  of  demand.   The  genuinely  custom  or  individual  attention  is  most 
likely  to  occur  in  giving  shape  to  the  coat,  style  -to  the  collar  and 

1351-B 


-4- 

cuffs,  and  in  finishing  the  garment.  Thus,  on  garments  made  for  indi- 
vidual customers,  some  of  the  work  is  generally  done  in  advance  of  the 
order  while  the  "balance  of  the  work  is  done  in  response  to  the  order. 

In  addition  to  such  work,  the  custom  furrier  is  likely  to  make 
some  new  garments  in  advance  of  demand.  He  makes  some  for  display  pur- 
poses; these  garments  are  used  for  much  the  same  purpose  as  the  sample 
garments  of  the  wholesaler.  But  the  custom  furrier  is  likely  to  go 
further,  and  in  the  off  season  makes  garments  of  such  styles  as  he  "be- 
lieves will  "be  sold  rather  easily.   This  work  is  similar  to  that  done  "by 
the  wholesaler,  except  that  the  wholesaler  is  likely  to  make  more  gar- 
ments from  a  single  pattern  then  the  custom  furrier  is  likely  to  make. 

Most  custom  furriers  sell  not  only  the  garments  they  make,  "but  also 
those  purchased  from  wholesalers  and  jobbers.   Indeed,  in  many  cases, 
the  custom  furriers  sell  more  ready-made  than  custom-made  garments. 
Seldom  do  the  ready-made  garments  fit  the  customers  satisfactorily. 
Consequently,  alterations  are  necessary.   These  alterations  may  extend 
from  minor  changes,  such  as  shortening  the  ceat,  to  rather  extensive 
alterations  and  in  some  cases,  require  remodeling. 

Remodeling  and  repairing  of  old  garments  is  a  rather  important 
part  of  the  custom  furrier's  "business.  Especially  is  this  the  case  with 
the  smaller  furrier  and  for  many  of  them,  the  repairing  and  remodeling 
work  constitutes  their  entire  manufacturing  activities. . 

For  the  custom  furrier,  repairing  and  remodeling  is  advantageous  as 
a  means  of  keeping  in  contact  with  prospective  customers  for  new  gar- 
ments, and  it  also  "brings  in  some  "business  which  can  "be  done,  at  least 
in  part,  in  the  off  season.   Thus,  it  appears  that  custom  furriers  en- 
gaged in  virtually  all  the  types  of  fur  work  previously  mentioned,  al- 
though the  propertion  of  the  various  kinds  of  work  differs  widely  as 
between  establishments. 

3.  Retail  Fur  Shops 

With  changes  which  have  been  occurring  in  the  Industry,  a 
number  of  retail  fur  shops  have  come  into  existence.  For  the  most  part, 
these-  establishments  sell  stock  merchandise  which  they  have  purchased 
from  wholesalers  or  jobbers.   They  may  also  cater  to  the  custom  trade  in 
that  special  measurements  will  be  taken  and  sent  to  the  wholesale  manu- 
facturers.  In  most  of  these  establishments,  tiie  fur  work  consists  of 
slight  alterations  of  stock  garments  and  the  repair  of  old  garments.  If 
any  extensive  alterations  of  a  new  garment,  or  remodeling  of  an  old  gar- 
ment, are  necessary,  the  wo¥k  is  sent  to  a  wholesaler  or  perhaps  given  to 
a  contractor. 

Such  shops,  doing  virtually  no  new  work,  constitute  the  con- 
necting link  between  those  enterprises  or  establishments  whose  business 
is  mainly  in  furs  and  those  establishments  with  which  fur  business  is 
only  a  part. 

4.  Specialty  and  Department  Stores 

In  those  establishments  selling  wearing  apparel  mainly,  and  in 
1351-B 


those  selling  a  wider  variety  of  merchandise,  the  fur  "business  may  "be 
large  in  absolute  volume,  out  small  in  relation  to  the  total  "business. 
In  some  cases,  the  fur  department  is  under  the  ownership  and  operation 
of  the  r.tore  management,  while  in  other  cases,  the  department  is  a 
leased  department.  The  extent  to  which  leased  departments  exist  is 
extremely  difficult  to  determine.  In  such  cases,  an  outside  party, 
such  as  a  manufacturer  or  jobber,  is  likely  to  conduct  the  fur  business 
of  the  store  under  the  general  supervision  of  the  store  management. 
Customers  are  seldom  aware  that  they  are  dealing  with  a  third  party. 

In  any  case,  the  type  of  fur  work  done  in  these  stores  varies  quite 
widely,  extending  from  alterations  on  new  garments  at  the  time  of  sale 
up  to  the  mailing  of  new  merchandise.  Any  store  selling  new  garments 
must  have  some  facilities  for  altering  them  as  occasion  requires.  Many 
stores,  however,  have  discontinued  work  on  new  garments  either  for  stock 
or  for  display  purposes.  Insofar  as  stores  have  this  work  done,  they 
are  likely  to  have  it  done  by  wholesalers  or  perhaps  by  local  contrac- 
tors. 

Most  stores  seek  repair  and  remodeling  work.  They  generally  do  at 
least  the  repair  work  in  their  own  establishment  and  they  also  do  the 
remodeling  work,  although  if  the  remodeling  is  extensive  and  the  garment 
is  valuable,  they  are  likely  to  have  it  done  either  by  wholesalers,  con- 
tractors, or  perhaps  by  arrangement  with  some  local  custom  furrier. 

Some  stores  cater  to  the  custom  trade  and  maintain  a  staff  of  craft 
workers  with  high  skill.  In  order  to  maintain  this  corps  of  skilled 
workers,  an  attempt  is  made  to  furnish  employment  in  the  off  season.  In 
that  period,  plates,  shells  and  even  entire  garments  of  a  stock  nature 
are  made. 

5.  Miscellaneous  Establishments 

Some  fur  work,  especially  repairing,  is  done  by  a  miscellaneous 
group  of  individual's  and  enterprises  such  as  tailors,  dry  cleaners, 
laundries,  storage  warehouses,  and  even  banks.  The  fur  work  done  by  most 
of  these  establishments  is  a  small  part  of  their  total  business  and  in 
many  cases  is  incidental  to  their  main  business.  For  example,  some 
banks  are  using  their  vaults  for  storage  purposes  and  are  offering  clean- 
ing and  repairing  service  as  a  means  of  attracting  customers. 

These  miscellaneous  establishments  may  have  fur  workers  as 
employeesj  but  more  frequently  arrangements  are  made  with  some  fur  work- 
ers or  with  some  fur  establishments  to  do  the  fur  work  9n  a  csntracting 
basis.  Comparatively  few  of  these  establishments  are  equipped  or  able 
to  do  fur  work  of  a  high  grade  such  as  is  required  with  remodeling  good 
garments  and  doing  new  work.  Insofar  as  occassion  arises  for  such  re- 
modeling ^r  new  work,  this  is  likely  to  be  given  to  contractors  or  others 
better  prepared  to  do  it. 

Diagram  II  shows  these  types  of  establishments  graphically. 

6.  Summary 

The  dual  relation  of  different  kinds  of  work  and  different 
1351~B 


-6- 

types  of  establishments  gives  rise  to  such  numerous  and  conflicting 
combinations,  that.it  is  not  feasible  to  separate  most  fur  work,  either 
on  the  basis  of'  the  kind  of  work  clone  or  on  the  basis  of  the  type  of 
establishment  doing; it.  Consequently,  if  garment  manufacturing  is  to 
be  regulated,  it  must  be  regulated  in  the  main,  as  a  unit.' 

II.  EUE  TRIMMING-  IvlANUE AC  TURING 

1 .  wholesale  Establishments 

Trimming  manufacturing,  like  garment  manufacturing,  is  cen—  ' 
tered  in  New  York  City,  but  to  a  lesser  extent.   Trimming  manufacturing 
is  likely  to  occur  wherever  cloth  garments,  especially  women's  coats 
and  suits,  are  made  in  any  appreciable  quantity.  These  establisliments 
make  stock  merchandise  but  also  manuf acture  largely  in  response  to 
orders  received  from  cloth  garment  manufacturers.   In  some  cases,  the 
trimming  manufacturers  also  make  other  articles  such  as  caps,  scarfs, 
muffs,  lap-robes,  and  even  garments.   These  are  sold  mostly  to  the 
trade,  but  many  places  sell  directly  to  ultimate  buyers.  Repairing  and  ■ 
remodeling  is  done  to  some  extent  in  these  establishments,  but  usually 
not  to  any  important  degree. 

.  The  variety  of  work  which  these  establisliments  are  likely  to.  do  is  j 
conditioned  mostly  by  the  activity  of  their  main  business.  If  ths-main.  j 
business  is  slack,  an  attempt  is  made  to  reach  into  other  .fields  and  j 
get  such  business  as  their  existing  facilities  permit  them  to  handle. 
On  the  other  hand,  when  their  main  business  is  active,  they  concentrate'  " 
on  it.  .   ... 

2.  Cloth  Coat  and  Suit  Establishments 

Some  manufacturers  of  cloth  garments  requiring  fur  trimming*  : 
do  not  rely  on   fur -establishments  for  the. .fur  trimming,  bu-t -manufacture  -  ■ 
these  trimmings  themselves.   In  such  instances,  the 'fur -work  done  is 
likely  to  be  restricted  to  that  required  'o~j   the  establishments  .themselves 
for  their  own  manufacturing  of  cloth  garments.  In  some  -instances,  a 
cloth  garment  manufacturer  who  is  also  manufacturing -his. own  trimmings 
may  sell  these  to  other  cloth  coat  manufacturers,  who  are  not  manufac—  ■ 
turing  their  fur  trimmings. 

while  there  is  an  appreciable  interrelation  between  trimming 
and  garment  manufacturing,  it  appears  reasonably  feasible  to  separate  ' 
these  activities  for  eodal  regulations. 

III.  EUR  PIECE  PLATS  MANUFACTURING 

Eur  piece  plate  manufacturing  is  confined  almost  entirely  to- 
New  York  City.   In  no  other  place  is  the  volume  of  small  waste  piRC-as  of 
fur  sufficiently  large  to  warrant  their  collection  and  manufacture  into 
"piece  plates".  These  plates  are  used  in  a  variety  of  ways,  but-es— 
pecially  in  making  the  lining  for  men's  coats,  trimmings,  fur  caps. -and 
miscellaneous  novelties.   To  some  extent  these  plates  are  now  being-  used 
in  the  making  of  fur  garments. 

In  many  cases,  fur  piece  plate  establishments  do  not  confine 
1351-B 


-7- 

themselves  to  the  manufacturing  of  plates  but  also  manufacture  trim- 
mings and  even  garments. 

Despite  this  overlapping,  it  appears  feasible  to  separate 
piece  plate  manufacturing  from  other  fur  manufacturing  for  the  purpose 
of  codal  regulations,  because, of  the  low  grade* of  skill  required  and 
the  kind  of  article  made. 

SUMI.1AHY 

The  foregoing  description  of  the  establishments  doing  fur  work 
indicates  that  there  is  substantial  interrelations  within  and  between 
the  various  branches  of  fur  manufacturing,  This  is  shown  graphically 
by  Diagram  III.  This  suggests  that  any  regulation  of  wages  and  hours 
designed  to  establish  fair  competitive  conditions  must  seek  a  balance 
between  different  branches  of  the  Industry. 

C.   SPECIALIZATION  T7ITHIN  BRANCHES  OF  THE  INDUSTRY 

Not  only  is  there  specialization  within  the  Industry  as  be- 
tween garments  and  trimmings,  but  within  each  of  these  major  branches 
tnere  is  further  specialization. 

1.  T;-pe  of  Fur 

Especially  in  wholesale  manufacturing  in  Hew  York  City  there 
is  a  growing  tendency  to  restrict  activities  to  one  or  a  few  kinds  of 
furs.  Thus,  some  establishments  are  known  as  "mink  houses" ,  and  others 
as  "squirrel  houses".   Similar  specialization  is  found  among  the  whole- 
sale manufacturers  of  trimmings  as  with  "fox  houses". 

2.  Price  Range 

Closely  akin  to  specialization  by  furs,  but  not  identical 
with  it,  is  specialization  within  a  price  range..   Thus,  some  places 
specialize  in  a  group  of  extremely  fine  and  valuable  furs,  such  as 
ermine,  broadtail,  chinchilla  and  sable.   There  is  a  second  group  of 
establishments  specializing  in  some  one  of  such  valuable  furs  as  mink, 
caracul,  Persian  lamb,  or  squirrel.  The  next  group  takes  in  the 
"muskrat"  houses,  or  those  specializing  in  Hudson  seal,  neutria  and 
m  jural  muskrat.  The  lowest  is  the  rabbit  group,  manufacturing  garments 
under  various  trade  names,  such  as  French  seal,  Northern  seal,  sealine 
and  lapin. 

Along  with  such  specialization  there  continues  to  be  estab- 
lishments making  "general  lines".  Seldom  is  it  advantageous  for  these 
nouses  to  include  the  cheapest  garments  in  their  lines.   Outside  of  New 
York  City  most  wholesale  manufacturing  is  general  line  work  except  on 
the  western  Coast. 

Such  specialization  in  a  measure  explains  the  relatively  nigh 
wages  in  New  York  City.   Through  specialization  an  opportunity  exists^ 
i or  workers  to  attain  maximum  earnings  through  development  of  dexterity 
and  productive  speed  within  a  limited  range  of  work.  This  in  turn  means 
tnat  general  line  and  custom  establishments  mast  pay  similar  wages  in 
1351-1 


-8- 

order  to  have  competent  workers  capable  of  doing  diversified  work. 
Furthermore,  the  distinction  "between  first  and  second  class  craft  workers, 
as  set  forth  in  labor  agreements  especially  in  New  York  City,  is  "based 
largely  on  the  types  of  fur  worked  upon  and  the  speed  with  which  the 
work  is  done. 

D.   COMPETITIVE  ASPECTS  OF  THE  IMDUSTBY 

Intensely  keen  is  the  competition  in  this  Industry.   The  intense- 
ness  may  he  accounted  for  in  large  part  "by  two  circumstances.   In  the 
first  place,  the  depression  in  this  Industry  "began  about  1927  which  was, 
of  course,  before  the  general  decline  in  business  activities.   This 
longer  period  of  poor  business  has  operated  as  an  incentive  to  shifting 
in  lines  of  specialty,  thus  creating  keener  competition  in  those  lines 
which  are  most  popular  at  a  given  time.   In  the  second  place,  the  ease 
with  which  this  business  can  be  entered  has  made  it  highly  competitive. 

The  most  pronounced  competition  may  be  viewed  from  at  least  six 
angles: 

(1)  Within  major  branches  of  the  Industry 

(2)  Between  branches  of  the  Industry 

(3)  Between  the  Industry  and  other  lines  of  business 

(4)  Between  geographic  areas 

(5)  Between  employer  and  employees 

(6)  Between  employees 

1.  Major  Branches  of  the  Industr?/- 

G-arment  houses  compete  with  garment  houses.  Establishments  special- 
izing in  making  mink  garments,  for  example,  compete  not  only  with  other 
mink  houses,  but  with  houses  malting  other  high  priced  garments  of  a 
similar  kind.   These  houses  compete  with  those  making  more  moderately 
priced  garments,  such  as  Hudson  seal  (muskrat)  and  these  houses  in  turn 
with  establishments  making  both  similar  garments  from  other  types  of 
furs  and  establishments  still  making  lower  priced  garments,  such  as 
sealines  (rabbit) . 

A  similar  chain  of  competition  is  found  in  fur  trimming  manufactur- 
ing. 

Then  there  is  competition  between  establishments  designating  them- 
selves as  wholesale  manufacturers  and  those  designating  themselves  as 
custom  manufacturers.   The  stock  garments  of  the  wholesaler  are  sold  in- 
directly to  consumers  through  departments  stores,  specialty  stores  and 
retail  fur  shops,  etc.   Thus,  these  garments  compete  with  the  custom 
garments  sold  directly  to  consumers  by  the  custom  manufacturers.  More- 
over, establishments  specializing  in  mailing  stock  garments  also  make 
custom  garments  and  custom  garment  manufacturers  also  make  stock  garments. 

Thus,  the  interrelation  of  types  of  work  and  types  of  establishments 
doing  fur  work  gives  rise  to  Intense  competition. 

2.  Between  Branches  of  the  Industry. 

1„e1  ffhile  fur  garments  and  fur  trimming  manufacturers,  as  such,  do  not 


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compete  directly  so  far  as  their  respective  products  are  concerned, 
they  do  come  into  direct  competition  when  trimming  manufacturers  make 
garments  end  garment  manufacturers  make  trimmings.   Similarly,  piece 
plate  manufacturers,  as  such,  do  not  compete  vith  either  garment  or 
trimming  manufacturers,  but  when  the  plate  manufacturers  also  make 
trimmings  and  garments,  there  is  direct  competition  especially  in  the 
range  of  low  priced  garments  and  trimmings. 

3 .  Between  the  Industry  and  Other  Lines  of  Business . 

Here,  as  in  other  fields,  there  is  overlapping  as  between 
different  lines  of  business.  ■  In  garment  manufacturing,  especially  in 
the  lower  price  range  of  garments,  furs  come  into  competition  with  cloth 
garments.   The  custom  manufacturers  of  garments  come  into  competition 
with  such  retail  outlets  for  the  wholesale  manufacturer's  garments,  as 
department  stores,  specialty  shops  and  fur  shops.  These  retail  outlets 
also  compete  with  custom  manufacturers  for  repair  and  remodeling  work. 

The  wholesale  manufacturers  of  trimmings  come  into  competition 
with  those  manufacturers  of  cloth  coats  and  suits  who  make  fur  trimmings 
themselves,  either  for  their-  own  use  or  for  sale  to  other  coat  and  suit 
manuf  ac tur  er  s . 

The  fur  piece  plate  manufacturers  come  into  competition,  at 
least  to  some  extent,  with  skin  dealers.   To  some  degree,  fur  piece 
plates  are  used  where  new  skins  would  be  too  expensive  to  be  used.  But 
there  is  a  range  within  :which  substitution  is  feasible. 

In  doing  repairing  and  remodeling  work,  garment  manufacturers 
especially  come  in  conflict  not  only  with  retail  establishments  but  with 
branches  of  the  service  trades  such  as  tailors,  cleaners,  laundries, 
storage  establishments.   (See  Diagram  IV) 

4.  Between  Geographic  Areas 

In  garment  manufacturing,  the  New  York  City  wholesalers  fear 
the  outside  wholesale  and  custom  manufacturers,  while  the  outside  whole- 
sale and  custom  manufacturers'  fear  the  Hew  Yofk  City  wholesalers.   The 
competitive  influence  of  the  Hew  York  City  wholesaler  is  felt  outside 
by  way  of  jobbers,  resident  buyers,  commission  men  and  traveling  sales- 
men.  The  outside  manufacturers,  on  the  other  hand,  reduces  the  possible 
market  for  New  York  City  products. 

There  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  competitive  fears  of  Hew 
York  City  wholesalers  are  much  less  justified  than  are  those  of  manu- 
facturers outside  New  York  City.  Hot  only  recently,  but  for  a  period  of 
years,  out.side  manufacturers  have  been  losing  ground  to  Hew  York  City, 
especially  in  the  lower  priced  garments.   Only  one  instance  came  to  the 
attention  of  the  Commission  of  outside  wholesalers  selling  their  product 
in  Hew  York.  Boston,  once  a  wholesale  area  has  ceased  to  be  such. 

In  trimming  manufacturing,  the  situation  is  somewhat  different. 
Here,  as  with  garments,  the  bulk  of  the  business  is  done  in  Hew  York 
City,  but  for  different  reasons.   Trimming  manufacturing  arises  wherever 

1351-3 


-10- 

coat  and  suit  manufacturing  is  done  on  any  appreciable  scale.   The  major 
localization  of  cloth  coat  manufacturing  is  in  New  York  City  and  this 
carries  with  it  a  major  localization  in  the  manufacturing  of  fur  trim- 
ming. However,  an  appreciable  fringe  of  fur  trimming  manufacturing  is 
done  in  the  other  cities  in  which  cloth  garment  manufacturing  exists. 

5.  Between  Employer  and  Employee 

Both  in  and  cutside  New  York  City  a  condition  exists  by  which  the 
employee  competes  with  the  employer.  Especially  in  New  York  City, 
craftsmen  have  business  cards  stating  that  they  design  and  make  new  gar- 
ments raid  also  repair  and  remodel  old  garments.   If  these  craftsmen  are 
employed  at  the  time,  they  may  turn  their  order  over  to  their  employer 
on  a  commission  basis.  More  generally,  whether  employed  or  unemployed, 
they  do  the  work  themselves.   In  some  instances,  the  work  is  done  in 
their  homes,  although  at  times  employees  are  permitted  to  use  the  em- 
ployer's equipment  and  facilities  at  noon  and  after  closing  hours. 
Usually  such  enterprising  employees  obtain  the  assistance  of  their  fel- 
low-workers to  do  part  of  the  job.   Thus,  a  cutter  may  engage  fellow- 
workers  to  sew  the  skins  and  finish  the  garment.  When  craft  workers 
lose  their  jobs,  they  are  likely  to  become  self-employers  rather  promptly. 

6.  Between  Employees 

A  somewhat  different  aspect  of  the  competition  created  by  employees 
becoming  self-employers  arises  in  the  case  of  "contracting".   In  most 
establishments,  the  fur  work  is  done  on  the  employer's  premises  and  by 
employees  who  are  paid  by  the  week  or  the  day.  At  times  work  is  given 
to  employees  to  be  done  in  the  shop  on  a  piece  or  contract  basis.   In 
New  York  City,  for  example,  union  contracts  forbid  such  work. 

On  the  other  hand,  fur  work  may  be  entrusted  to  individuals  to  be 
done  off  the  premises  on  a  piece  work  basis.   The  piece  rates  so  paid 
are  designed  to  give  the  manufacturers  lower  costs  than  if  established 
rates  were  paid  in  the  shoins.   Such  work  is  designated  as  "outside  con- 
tracting." 

Outside  contracting  is  likely  to  arise  under  any  one  of  several 
circumstances.   In  some  establishments  at  the  height  of  the  season, 
there  may  be  inadequate  space  for  the  employer  to  bring  sufficient  work- 
ers into  his  shop.  An  alternative  is  to  have  the  work  done  outside  of 
the  shop.  More  generally,  outside  contracting  arises  as  a  means  of  evad- 
ing established  rates  of  pay,  whether  rates  set  by  union  contract  or  by 
codal  provisions.  Especially  in  periods  of  slack  employment  is  there 
considerable  incentive  for  the  employer  to  resort  to  outside  contracting. 
In  some  cases,  the  evasion  of  established  rates  is  deliberate,  as  where 
an  employer  seeks  to  get  his  work  done  in  the  cheapest  way  possible.   In 
other  cases,  it  is  done  as  the  sole  means  of  meeting  competition.   Thus, 
when  an  employer  who  is  willing  to  pay  established  rates  provided  com- 
petitors are  paying  the  same  rates,  find  competitors  evade  these  rates 
by  contracting,  then  he  may  find  himself  forced  to  resort  to  the  same 
device  of  evasion. 

Not  all  manufacturers  are  in  a  position  to  take  advantage  of  outside 
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garments  from  Valuable  furs  cannot  afford  to  run  the  risk  of  having 
their  contractors  substitute  even  one,  to  say  nothing  of  more,  shins. 
Consequently,  outside  contracting  is  confined  to  garments  made  of  the 
Ipw©?  grades  of  furs,  where  the  incentive  for  substitution  is  relatively 
small  and  where  the  possible  disadvantage  of  the  manufacturer  is  com- 
paratively small.  The  advantage  to  a  contractor  in  substituting  a  skin 
worth  15  cents  for  one  25  cents  is  quite  different  than  substituting  a 
skin  worth  $1.00  for  one  worth  $5.00 

_kese  conflicting  aspects  of  the  Industry  must  be  evaluated  in 
forming  codal  regulations  designed  to  aid  the  Industry  as  a  whole.   To 
some  extent,  immediate  interests  of  different  groups  are  in  irreconcil- 
able conflict,  and  to  a  lesser  extent  it  is  likely  they  will  continue 
to  be  so  indefinitely.  However,  the  existing  conflicts  within  the  Indus- 
try and  within  branches  of  it  loom  so  large  and  impressive  to  most 
individuals  in  the  Industry  that  they  are  unable  to  recognize  such  com- 
mon interests  as  exist.  Under  such  circumstances  it  is  not  surprising 
that  either  of  two  general  proposals  are  usually  advocated  as  the  nec- 
essary means  of  establishing  and  maintaining  fair  competition:   (l)  Let 
others  do  as  they  want  but  let  us  alone,  or  (2)  make  others  conform  to 
our  policies,  practices  and  standards.   Consequently,  any  codal  regu- 
lations based  upon  conditions  in  the  Industry  as  a  whole  will  be  viewed 
by  those  in  the  Industry  as  purely  arbitrary. 

E.   C2AFT  WOSK 


Despite  the  inroa  Ls  of  machinery  in  many  lines  of  business,  the 
fabrication  of  furs  continues  to  be  essentially  a  hand  craft  industry. 
In  some  operations  no  mechanical  assistance  is  available.   This  is 
especially  true  in  the  selection,  matching  and  cutting  of  skins,  in  the 
nailing  and  stretching  of  them,  and  in  some  parts  of  the  finishing  work. 
In  other  processes  hand  fed  machines  have  come  to  be  used.  Virtually 
every  shop  has  a  specially  designed  machine  for  sewing  furs  and  also  an 
ordinary  sewing  machine  for  sewing  parts  of  a  cloth  lining  together.  A 
less  widely  used  mechanical  machine  device  is  the  "staying-machine"  de- 
signed to  attach  an  inter-lining  to  the  skins.   Such  machinery  has  been 
of  assistance  entirely  in  speeding  up  the  time  required  for  certain 
operations  on  a  sin.-;lc  garment.  In  no  instance  has  this  machinery  made 
it  possible  for  an  individual  to  perform  an  operation  .simultaneously  on 
a  number  of  garments. 

The  nearest  approach  tc  multiple  work  occurs  in  those  comparatively 
few  establishments  which  have  devices  for  cutting  a  number  of  cloth  lin- 
ings for  a  garment  simultaneously  by  means  of  a  mechanically  operated 
circular  blade.   It  is  also  possible  to  do  some  part  of  the  cleaning  work 
simultaneously  on  a  number  cf  garments  oy   means  of  a  revolving  drum. 

3ven  where  the  maximum  mechanical  equipment  is  used,  it  is  sub- 
stantially true  that  every  garment  is  individually  made  from  the  original 
matching  of  the  skins  to  the  insertion  of  the  lining  of  the  finished 
garments.   This  is  true  of  the  lowest  and  the  highest  price  garment 
whether  made  by  wholesale  or  custom  manufacturers. 

From  the  foregoing  two  pertinent  observations  may  be  made:  First, 
with  such  little  opportunity  for  mechanization  in  this  Industry,  codal 

1351-3 


-13- 


regulations  can  not  result  in  any  important  substitution  of  machinery 
for  hand  later.   Second,  the  apparently  inevitable  reliance  of  the  In- 
dustry upon  handwork  mates  it  easy  for  small  establishments,  family 
enterprises  and  self-employers  to  operate  in  the  Industry.   This  con- 
dition creates  very  real  limits  to  effective  codal  regulations  of  wages 
and  hours. 


F.   SIZE  OF  3USIH3SS  UMTS 

whether  the  size  of  establishments  is  measured  by  the  number  of 
factory  workers,  or  "o'j   the  dollar  volume  of  manufacturing,  it  appeal's 
clearly  that  small  establishments  predominate  in  this  industry.  Along 
with  them  is  an  insignificant  number  of  large  establishments. 

1 .  Uumber  cf  Craft  Torkers 

Viewing  the  Industry  as  a  whole,  about  a  quarter  of  the  workers 
are  in  establishments  with  one  or  two  shop  workers  and  about  half  of 
the  establishments  have  four  or  less  workers. 

V,hen  Hew  York  City  is  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  country  sever- 
al different  tendencies  appeal',   (l)  Establishments  with  one  or  two 
workers  are  relatively  more  numerous  outside  than  in  New  York  City.   (2) 
Establishments  with  four  to  seven  workers  are  about  equally  prominent 
both  in  and  outside  of  New  York  City. 

These  tendencies  are  set  forth  more  fully  in  the  Appendix. 

2.  Volume  of  Business 

About  25  per  cent  of  the  reporting  establishments  did  $5,000  worth 
of  fur  manufacturing  or  less,  including  repairing  .and  remodeling  in  1933 
and  about  40  per  cent  did  less  than  $10,000.00.   This  is  considered  more 
fully  in  the  Appendix, 

Here  the  tendencies  in"  and  outside  of  Hew  York  City  are  quite  dif- 
ferent. Establishments  tend  to  be  smaller  outside  the  city  than  in  it. 
While  only  15  per  cent  of  the  Hew  York  establishments  did  $6,000  or  less 
in  manufacturing,  30  per  cent  of  the  outside  establishments  did  a 
similar  amount.   Twenty-three  per  cent  did  less  than  $10,000  in  Hew  York 
City,  as  against  47  per  cent  outside  and  66  per  cent  did  less  than 
$60,000  in  Hew  York  City  compared  with  90  per  cent  outside  of  Hew  York 
City. 

3.  Investment 

Ho  statistical  information  has  been  obtained  as  to  the  investment  in 
fur  manufacturing  establishments  but  common  knowledge  and  observation 
discloses  one  very  important  fact.  Anyone  with  the  required  craft  skill 
can  engage  in  fur  work  with  an  investment  for  machinery  and  equipment 
of  less  than  $100.   In  many  instances  second  hand  equipment  would  be 
used. 

In  many  industries  extremely  small  concerns  are  likely  to  be  highly 
inefficient  and  high  cost  producers.  Under  such  circumstances  a  policy 

1351-B 


-13- 

of  regulation  designed  to  serve  the  industry  and  the  public  might  well 
eliminate  these  concerns.  But  in  this  Industry  the  small  concern  is 
not  necessarily  inefficient.  Indeed  the  productive  efficiency  of  small 
units  here  may  "be  as  great  as  or  greater  than  that  of  larger  units.   In 
other  respect's  such  as  credit,  lower  prices  for  purchase  of  volume  of 
supplies,  'etc.,  small  concerns  operate  under  a  disadvantage  compared 
with  the  larger  ones. 

The  comparative  importance  of  small  concerns  depends  somewhat  on 
whether  they  are  concentrated  or  scattered  geographically  and  some  what 
on  the  types  of  work  done  with  a  highly  localized  market  as  in  New  York 
City.  A  considerable  volume  of  work  is  done  by  small  establishments. 
This  is  especially  done  in  trimming  manuf acturing.  But  in  the  absence 
of  such  concentration  the  main  work  of  the  small  establishments  is  re- 
pairing and  remod-jling.   Thus,  many  of  the  small  establishments  deal 
exclusively  with  individuals  in  their  own  communities. . 

This' analysis  of  business  units  leads  to  several  conclusions: 
First,  any  codal  regulation  v.hich  would  either  intentionally  or  uninten- 
tionally drive  small  enterprises  out  of  existence  would  be  both  un- 
desirable and  ineffective.   It  would  be  undesirable  because  the  promin- 
ence of  hand  work  permits  small  establishments  to  operate  rather  effi- 
ciently.  It  would.be  ineffective  because  it  is  too  easy  for  individuals, 
family,  and  partnership  enterprises  to  carry  on  fur  work  in  homes, 
garages,  and  not  easily  discovered  lofts.  Most  of  these  establishments 
do  not  keep  books,  shift  rapidly" from  place  to  place,  and  lock  their 
doors  against  inspection.   Consequently  if  the  bulk  of  small  establish- 
ments is  regulated  to  any  important  extent,  preparations  must  be  made 
for  a  very  heavy  enforcement  burden. 

G.   SPECIALIZATION  OF  LABOR 

Ail  analysis  of  the  typical  steps 'taken  in  manufacturing  fur  gar- 
ments discloses  about  twenty  very  distinct  operations,  extending  from 
matching  the  skins  to  final  inspection  of  the  finished  garment. 

The  old,  all-around  craftsman,  of  which  a  few  still  exist  was  able, 
to,  and  actually  did,  perform  all  these  operations  himself.  But  today 
a  single  craftsman  seldom,  if  ever,  performs  all  of  them  himself.  The 
extent  cf  division  of  labor  depends  upon  the  location,  size,  and  type  of 
establishment. 

Speaking  in  general  terms,  the  most  extensive  division  of  labor 
occurs  in  Hew  York  City,  and  here,  with  the  larger  establishments,  which 
means  mainly,  the  establishments  engaged  in  some  specialized  line  of 
wholesale  manufacturing,  such  as  Hudson  Seal. 

Four  more  or  less  distinct  "types  of  activities  ar©  generally  recog- 
nized, at  least  where  collective  agreements  exist.   In  many  instances, 
the  activities  are  not  nearly  so  clearly  defined  as  the  common  termin- 
ology might  suggest. 

A.   Cutters 

Ir.e   most  highly  skilled  craft  is  that  of  cutters.   In  addition  to 
1351-3 


j 


-14- 

actually  cutting  the  skins,  this  individual,  who  is  almost  always  a  male 
worker,  frequently  matches  the  fur.   In  the  larger  establishments,  the 
cutter  is  not  engaged  in  ether  activities,  _but  in  the  smaller  places  he 
may  nail  the  skins  and  even  sew  them  on  the  machine.  He  may  also  do 
cleaning  and  glazing,  "but  seldom  does  he  do  finishing  work.   In  the 
small  e  st  ab  li  slime  nt  the 'proprietor  is,  likely  to  "be  the  cutter. 

This  craft,  together  with  others,  is  at  times  found  divided  into 
first  and, second  classes,  and  in  some  instances,  into  even  more  classes. 
To  this  point,  attention  will  be  given  later, 

B.  Operators 

Next  to  the  cutter,  the  "operator"  is  the  most  skilled  worker  in 
the  fur  establishment.   This  individual  sews,  the  skins  at  two  or  three 
stages  in  the  manufacturing  process.  With  some  skins,  such  as  Mink, 
for -example,  garments  ,are  made  by  cutting  .individual  skins  into  small 
strips*   These  strips  are  then  sewed  together  into  long  strips.  Caere 
such  "let ting-cut"  'is  required,  the  first  sewing  occurs  in  the  recon- 
struction of  in/ididual  skins.   The  next  process  is  to  sew  a  number  of 
whole,  or  reconstructed  skins,  into  plates  or  jdeces  sufficiently  large 
for  a  section  of  a  garment,  finally,  the  sections  of  the  garment,  such 
.as -back,  sides,  sleeves,  etc.  are  sewed  together.   This  work  is  done  on 
a  specially  designed  type  of  sewing  machine.  In  New  York  City  operators 
are  usually  men.  Especially  outside  New  York  City  operators  may  nail 
and  finish  garments  as  veil  as  cut  them. 

C.  Nai  I  er  s 

The  Nailer  wets  the  skins  and  stretches  them  sp  that  they  cover 
the  pattern  for  the  particular  garment.   The  stretching  is  done  by  nail- 
ing the  skins,  which  at  this-  stage  have  been  sewed  into  plates,  to  a 
board  and  putting  them  away  to  dry.   If  this  operation  is  performed 
properly,  it  requires  skill  and  considerable  care.  Except  in  wholesale 
establishments  and  the  larger  custom  ones,  the  nailing  is  done  mostly  as 
incidental  work  by  cutters  and  operators.   In  some  establishments  it  is 
done  Irj   shipping  clerks  and  apprentices,.  After  the  skins  are  dry  they 
are  then  cleaned  raid  ironed.   This  operation  is  often  spoken  of  as 
glazing, .and  may  be  performed  by  the  nailer  or  by  giazers,  or  by  others, 
including  even  the  cutter.  ;.   .: 

D.  finishers 

The  most  heterogenous  groiip  working  on  fur  garments  is  the  finishers. 
The  shell  is  made  by  the  "cutters"  "operators,"  "nailers,"  "squarers" 
vmo  are  cutters,  and  the"closers"  who  are  superior  .operators.   After 
these  individuals  have  performed  their  operations  upon  the  garment  it 
goes  to  the  finishing  group  or  department.  ■   Here  '"fining .makers," ' 
"stayers,"  "tapers,"  and  "finishers,"  work  upon  it..  ,  The  lining  makers 
cut  and  sew  the  cloth  lining' together ;  the  stayers  attach  an  inner  lin- 
ing to  the  skins  '"oj   the  use  of  a  "staying  machine;"  the. -tapers  attach 
cloth  strips  around  the  garmont  to  assist  it  in  holding  its  shape;  fin- 
ishers prepare  the  lining, ..  "work-in"  the  lining  to  fit  the  shell  and 
perform  other  incidental  operations  such  as  making  pockets  and  sewing 

1351-B 


-15- 

on  buttons.  From  these  workers  the  garment  goes  for  final  cleaning, 
ironing,  glazing  and  inspection. 

S.   First  and  Second  Class 

Especially  in  New  York  City  and  in  those  establishments  operating 
under  agreements  with  the  union,  a  further  distinction  is  drawn  between 
first  and  second  class  workers.  Presumably,  this  distinction  is  based 
mainly  on  the  kind  of  fur  worked  upon  and  to  a  lesser  degree,  the 
productivity  of  the  worker.   It  has  been  maintained  that  wholesale  es- 
tablishments tend  to  specialize  on  the  basis  of  furs  and  this  calls  for 
a  corresponding  specialization  on  the  part  of  the  worker.  Thus,  for 
example,  some  cutters  are  known  as  "Mink,"  "Sable,"  "Eox,"  or  "Rabbit." 
Eirst  class  workers  tend  to  be  those  specializing  on  the  more  valuable 
furs  and  the  finer  garments.  Generally,  this  means  skins  ranging  from 
Hudson  Seal  up.  Second  class  workers  tend  to  be  those  specializing  in 
the  making  of  garments  of  cheaper  furs  such  as  sealine.  Even  in  New 
York  City,  most  custom  furriers  do  not  recognize  this  distinction.  In 
making  a  piece  plates,  a  third  class  worker  is  recognized  in  a  union 
agreement. 

Outside  of  New  York  City,  the  situation  is  quite  different.   In 
those  establishments  doing  any  considerable  amount  of  work,  there  tends 
to  be  some  division  of  labor  and  usually  along  craft  lines.  Where  union 
agreements  exist,  craft  lines  are  recognized  but  most  of  the  establish- 
ments do  not  do  a  considerable  amount  of  new  work,  and  even  when  repair- 
ing and  remodeling  work  is  added,  their  total  volume  is  not  sufficient 
to  warrant  division  of  labor  on  strict  craft  lines. 

A.   Cutters 

The  most  clearly  defined  craft  is  cutting  and  in  many  places  the 
proprietor  is  the  cutter.   But  whether  proprietor  or  employee,  the 
cutter  is  likely  to  perform  other  work,  such  as  nailing,  glazing  and 
operating.  Under  such  circumstances,  there  is  no  opportunity  to  develop 
the  speed  that  fellow  craft  workers  can  develop  under  more  extensive 
specialization. 

3.  l.ulti-Craft  Works 

Outside  of  New  York  City,  the  individual  performing  a  variety  of 
activities  is  more  characteristic  than  the  specialized  craft  worker. 
This  is  partly  due  to  the  quantity  of  work  and  partly  to  the  type  of  it. 
Small  volume  of  work,  of  which  repairing  and  remodeling  constitute  an 
appreciable  part,  does  not  lend  itself  to  craft  specialization. 

C.   Q-oerators 

Outside  of  New  York  City,  and  a  few  other  places,  the  sewing  of 
skins  is  often  done  by  women.   These  women  do  finishing  work  and  may 
even  do  cutting  in  connection  with  repairing  and  remodeling  jobs.   Then 
too,  a  different  and  slower  technique  of  sev/ing  is  found  in  most  of 
these  places. 


1351-3 


-16. 


Pir.1  skiers 


Finishing  work  outside  of  Hew  York  City  is  done  almost  entirely  by 
women.  Uhereas  about  fifty  per  cent  of  the  finishers  reported  in  New 
York  City  were  women,  ninety  per  cent  cf  those  reported  outside  of  Hew 
York  City  were  female  workers.  For  the  most  part,  these  finishers  are 
not  capable  of  cutting  and  operating  a  complete  lining,  but  are  engaged 
mainly  for  straight  needle "*work.   In  some  peaces,* the  finishers  are 
called  " sewers,"  arid  are  frequently  drawn  from  other  branches  of  the 
needle  trades  as  occasion  demands. 

Class  of  V-ork 

To  some  extent,  outside  of  Sew  York  City, craft  workers  are  found 
divided  into  classes,   Ther.e  union  agreements  exist,  first  and  second 
classes  are  generally  recognized  and  sometimes  a  third  class.   In  some 
shops  as  many  as  four  classes  of  workers  are  found  in  a  craft.  IJo 
uniform  definitions  of  class  are  found  even  between  establishments,  to 
say  nothing  of  between  different  localities.. 

She  foregoing  descriptions  seem  to  justify  the  following  observa- 
tions: 

1. ■  More  or  less  division  of  labor  along  craft  lines  is  found 
throughout  the  industry. 

2.  The  extent  of  specialization  depends  largely  upon  the 
volume  aid  kind  of  work,.. 

3.  Craft  lines  are  more  clearly  drawn  in  wholesale  manufacturing 
areas,  especially  in  Hew  York  City,  than  elsewhere. 

4.  The  classifications  prevailing  in  Hew  York  City  are  not  those 
prevailing  in  most  places  outside  of  Hew  York  City. 

5.  Both  in  end  outside  New  York  City  there  is  in  practice  devia- 
tion from  the  classification. 

S.   If  a  policy  of  codal  classifications  is  adopted,  its  general 
lines  should  take  into  account  the  existing  practices  through- 
out the  country. 


13G1-B 


-17- 

S2ASG13AXITY 


i.      Climate: 

InS3far  as   climate.con^tions   are  -SrSn^f-n^i^r 
,re  abundant  opportunities  to  an ticipa *J J^^  shelis  ln  anticipation 

Requirements  .and  manure  ture  at  leas-,  plat  e  |g   ■  ^     To   the  ex- 

of  demand,   as  well   as  to  do  repairing  ^  for  overtime 

tent  that   such  work  is  done  in  bhe  off.,  sea 
in  season  is  reduced. 

2i__StYl§ 

nf  the   sarment  and  tne 
The   style  factor  inclines  hoth  -ne  shape  01  ^  tn  ,Qelieve 

tyoe  of  fur"     So  far  a,   shape   is  ^^J^;1   It   is  true   that  with 
tS-innortanoe  of  W-£j£  ™>  ^.garments  there  is  a  ten- 
the  more  expensive  ana  distinct  y  generally  some  time  m 

dency   to  wait  until   the  Pf\"   I*^f ^2  of   garments  made  hy_the 
September.     ?rom  the   standpoiru   °;  ^e  ^\ned  gjments   are  in  a  dis- 
InLstry  as   a  whole,    sue  n  ^J^'J^^  tne   style  which  ends  one 
tinct  minority.     For  the   oulk  of  new S*J™£  .g  a 

season  tends  to   pe  the   style  which  ope  «*£JJ£       to  anticiPate  future 
continuity   of   style  which  Perni ^^  "^t^rally  admitted.      It   is 
retirements  with  greater  accurac ^JJ^-^^i,   they  have  a  modi- 
true    that  when  Paris  models  have  oeen  ™**™       ^  ,hat   Dy  this   time 
fying  influence   on  S^ral   styles  ^a.   it   x«   al  gQOds   to    tie 

most  manufacturers  have   sold  a  large  part   o ^  tail-end  work  of 

trade.     Consequently,    the  new   styles   influence         y 
the  manufacturer's   season. 

,   ,  .        ^ f    i a  often  asserted  that 
Tn  the  natter  of  repairing  and  *^}™*l^sl3SQn  Decause  the  fall 
at  least  remodeled  work  cannot  he  done  ™£**  '  conditions  exist 

styles   are  not   then  known,      here   a*ain     ~   _       coiaparatively   few  in- 
as  with  new  garments,  namely,    that exc  ;        -  ers  want  their  re- 

stances,    the   style  which  preva  Is  jnoa mqs,  foe  previouS 

modeled  garments  in  the  fall,   is    «ne   s^y.e 


season. 


The   influence  of. changing  popularity  °£ j^  iB  ^°  Consequently, 
..,  popular  this  year  may  not  %  P^^Simmings   on  the 
if  ,  manufacturer  makes  alates     shells     *arm  ^  ^  lf 

tasis      f   the  popular  fur  or  furs  of  the  J?a^  with  difficulty  and 

tort    season  with  merchandise  which  ne  -anj0^ Manufacturers  to  post- 
losses.     From  this  angle  it  is  advon  tageeus  ior  ^   ^   .^^ 
pone   as  much  of  their  operation  as  possioie 
tion  of   the  popular   fur. 

3.      Speculative  ITature  _gfj^c£g. 

~"  '  .    .         ,  „vvis  and  for  both  gar- 

prices  fluctuate  widel;'  for  =any  »'  «   —  _     Ells  corJCS  aDout 


1351-3 


-18- 

for  example,  the  lynx  fur  is  popular  this  will  tend  to  boost  che  price 
of  chese  skins.   Moreover,  once  a  particular  fur  begins  to  "take"  the 
demand  for  it  increases  very  quickly  because  of. the  shortness  of  the 
season.   On  the  other  hand,  if  badger  skins  suddenly  lose  their  popular- 
ity, a  sharp  break  will  occur  in  prices  for  this  skin.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  available  quantities  of  individual  furs  may  fluctuate  widely. 
Thus  it  is  alleged  that  i.Ianchurian  dog  skins  are  dumped  on  the  market  at 
any  time  and  sold  for  whatever  prices  can  be  gotten  with  no  opportunity 
for  anyone  to  predict  when  this  may  happen.   Such  circumstances  tend  to 
detract  from  other  possible  advantages  which  might  be  gained  through 
extensive  manufacturing  operations  as  might  otherwise  be  undertaken  in 
advance  of  the  season. 

These  fluctuations  in  prices  of  skins  reflect  themselves  in  the 
prices  and  popularity  of  garments  and  trimmings  made  from  them.   At  the 
same  time,  sudden  increase  or  decrease  in  the  popularity  of  a  fur  has  a 
marked  influence  on  the  prices  that  can  be  obtained  for  the  finished 
goods.  A  manufacturer  who  happens  to  be  in  a  line  that  becomes  popular 
makes  a  killing,  while  one  whose  specialty  has  fallen  in  popularity  goes 
into  b ankrup t  cy . 

4 .   Credit 


An  important  part  of  the  seasonal  problem  lies  in  the  credit 
situation.  Many  manufacturers,  both  wholesale  and  custom,  have  little, 
if  any,  credit  facilities.  Therefore,  they  are  not  in  a  position  to 
finance  the  purchase  of  skins  and  to  pay  labor  much  in  advance  of  the 
time  when  they  will  be  reimbursed  "oy   their  customers.   Concerns  which  do 
have  credit  facilities  show  a  more  pronounced  tendency  to  do  work  in  the 
off-season. 

Tnis  seasonality  means  that  most  workers  in  the  Industry  have  an 
opportunity  to  work  in  it  only  about  four  months  in  a  year.   However, 
tnis  does  not  mean, 'as  many  assume  by  implication,  that  this  is  the  only 
opportunity  these  workers  have  to  obtain  employment.  At  present  fur 
workers  with  others,  may  find  extreme  difficulty  in  obtaining  outside 
employment  but  in  periods  of  ordinary  employment  there  are  opportunities 
for  supplemental  work.   Hot  only  do  some  workers  do  fur  work  in  the  off- 
season on  their  own  account,  but  they  find  employment  in  other  lines  of 
work.   It  has  not  been  possible  to  ascertain  the  extend  to  which,  prior 
to  the  depression,  fur  workers  had  supplemental  employment  and  income. 

Seasonality  in  this  Industry  has  a  bearing  on  codal  regulations 
in  two  respects:   First,  whatever  ultimate  improvement  may  occur,  at 
present,,  seasonality  is  beyond  the  control  of  most  establishments  and 
tnis  fact  must  be  taken  into  account  in  codal  regulations  of  v/ages  and 
hours.   Second,  in  allowing  for  seasonality,  it  cannot  be  assumed  that 
ordinarily  there  is  no  opportunity  for  fur  workers  to  obtain  supolemen'o- 
ary  employment. 

I .  PREVAILING  WAGES 

Information  as  to  prevailing  wages,  both  hourly  and  weekly  has  been 
obtained  through  a  questionnaire  covering  292  establishments  with  1983 
factory  workers  during  the  week  of  September  24-29,  :  934.   Some  ccm- 

1351-3 


-19- 

pari  sons  are  drawn  "between  the  figures  so  obtained  and  those  obtained 
by  the  Census  Bureau. 

1.  Average  Hourly  Earnings 

If  the  payrolls  for  factory  workers  throughout  the  country,  as  re- 
ported1 to  the  Commission,  were  divided  evenly  among  the  workers,  each 
worker  would  have  received  87.4  cents  as  his  average  hourly  earning. 
However,  more  than  half  the  workers  did  not  receive  this  amount.  In 
fact,  half  of  them  received  less  than  80  cents  per  hour. 

These  figures  appear  to  be  considerably  higher  than  those  found  by 
the  Census  Bureau  for  a.  representative  week  in  October,  1932.   here  the 
average  was  51  cents  an  hour  with  half  of  hie  workers  receiving  less 
than  53  cents  an  hour.  Not  only  is  there  a  two-year  difference  in  time 
between  the  periods  covered  by  the  Census  and  ohe  Commission's  study, 
with  codal  regulations  intervening,  but  the  Census  figures  cover  an 
extremely  large  portion  of  workers  in  retail  or  custom  establishments. 
Out  of  a  total  of  183  establishments  with  1005  factory  workers,  150  of 
the  establishments  with  792  of  the  workers  were  in  the  retail  or  custom 
branch  of  the  Industry. 

A  separation  of  the  establishments  in  hew  York  City  from  those  out- 
side the  city  discloses  that  wages  are  considerably  lower  outside  than 
in  hew  York  City.   Considering  all  craft  workers  together,  the  average 
hourly  earning  for  New  York  City  is  31.23  as  against  65  cents  outside. 
On  this  basis,  outside  earnings  are  47  per  cent  lower  than  in  Hew  York 
City.   It  also  appears  that  half  the  workers  in  hew  York  City  received 
$1.20  or  less  while  half  the  workers  outside  received  57  cents  or  less. 
In  this  case,  outside  rates  are  53  per  cent  lower  than  hew  York  City 
rates.   The  lowest  ten  per  cent  of  the  workers  in  New  York  City  received 
$1.00  or  less  as  against  32  cents  outside  New  York  City. 

In  a  general  way,  the  Census  figures  confirm  this  tendency.  Those 
figures  show  that  the  average  hourly  earnings  for  a  representative  week 
in  October,  1929,  1932,  and  1933  to  be  94  cents,  74  cents,  and  73  cents 
respectively  for  the  Eastern  states  as  against  59  cents,  49  cents  and  54 
cents  for  the  other  states.   In  these  instances,  the  rates  outside  the 
Eastern  states  are  only -27  -per  cent,  37  per  cent  and  31  per  cent  lower 
respectively  then  in  the  Eastern  states. 

2.  T7eekly  "aves 

huch  the  same  tendency  is  found  with  weekly  wages. 

Again,  considering  all  craft  workers  throughout  the  country,  it 
appears  that  their  full  time  weekly  wages  averaged  $32.55,  with  50  per 
cent  of  the  workers  getting  $31.73  or  less.   In  hew  York  City,  the 
average  is  $43.70  as  against  $25.85  outside,  and  half  the  workers  in 

York  City  receive  $42.28  or  less  compared  with  $23.33  or  less  out- 
side. 

On  the  basis  of  Census  data,  the  average  actual  weekly  earnings  for 
a  representative  week  of  October,  1929,  1932  and  1933  were  $35.41, 
325.95  and  324.32  respectively.   Separating  Eastern  from  other  states, 

1351-B 


-20- 

the  respective  averages  for  Eastern  states  were  $41.11,  $31.33  and 
$29.55  compared  with.  ^3.2.60,  $23.23  and  $22.93  for  the  other  states. 

It  appears  therefore  that  in  Eastern  states,  and  especially  in 
New  York  City,  wage  levels  in  this  Industry  are  higher  than  in  other 
parts  of  the  country.   Any  codal  regulation  of  wages  to  he  effective 
must  take  account  of  such  differences. 

Further  analysis  of  wage  data  will  found  in  the  Appendix. 

J .   PREVAILING  HOURS 

In  general,  the  prevailing  hours  worked  per  week  are  snorter  in 
New  York  City  than  is  generally  the  case  outside  New  York  City. 

In  New  York  City,  the  "Predominating  time  for  workers  in  about  95 
per  cent  of  the  reporting  establishments  was  35  hours,  while  outside 
New  York  City  the  predominating  time  was  40  hours  in  about  SO  per  cent 
of  the  establishments  and  35  hours  in  about  30  per  cent. 

Actual  hours  worked  ranged  from  less  than  20  to  more  than  50.  The 
average  time  for  all  workers,  in  mid  outside  of  New  York  City,  was  35.5. 
In  New  York  City,  59  per  cent  of  the  factory  employees  were  reported  as 
working  35  hours  with  about  37  per  cent  working  less  than  35  hours. 
This  amount  of  short  time  may  be  at  least  partially  explained  on  the 
basis  of  certain  minor  Jewish  Holidays  occurring  the  week  the  data,  was 
covered. 

Outside  Hew  York  City,  about  the  same  proportion  of  factory  em- 
ployees worked  35  hours  as  worked  A0  hours  -  about  40  per  cent  in  each 
case.   The  average  hours  actually  worked  outside  New  York  City  were 
37.7  hours.   (See  Appendix) 

This  tendency  for  Hew  York  hours  to  be  longer  than  the  hours  out- 
side  of  New  York  City  has  some  support  from  the  Census  data.   Average 
hours  for  factory  workers  in  the  He tail  Fur  Trade  are  considerably 
lower  in  the  Eastern  §tates  than  in  the  other  sections  of  the  country. 
In  1933,  the  average  for  the  entire  country  was  40.8.   (See  Appendix) 

These  statistical  data  confirm  the  observations  and  testimony  pre- 
sented to  the  Commission  to  the  effect  that  outside  New  York  City  and 
some  of  the  larger  fur  manufacturing  cities,  in  which  there  are  union 
agreements  for  35  hours,  the  prevailing  hours  per  week  are  between  40 
and  43. 

It  has  also  been  pointed  out  to  the  Commission  that  the  reduction 
in  hours  of  the  National  Industrial  Recovery  Act  was  relatively  greater 
in  many  places  than  in  New  York  City.   Thus,  in  New  York  City  and  other 
places  formerly  working  40  Hours,  the  reduction  to  35  hours  was  only  a 
12fj  per  cent  reduction.  While  for  those  establishments  formerly  working 
44  or  48  hours  and  now  working  40,  a  further  reduction  to  35  would  be  a 
total  reduction  of  between  25  and  27  ner  cent  of  the  original  working 
time.  Expressed  in  terms  of  cost,  the  increase  in  wage  costs  were 
relatively  less  in  New  York  City  and  other  similar  places  than  in  those 
formerly  working  longer  hours. 

1351-B 


-21- 

There  are  diverse  attitudes  with  respect  to  overtime  allowance,  "but 
a  fairly  uniform  course  of  action  is  followed.   For  example,  wholesale 
manufacturers  and  labor  alike  in  Hew  York  City  oppose  overtime  whereas 
other  manufacturers  deem' overtime  e^To.itial  said  in  some  insbsnces'-'lahor 
agreements  recognize  this  need,  Whatever  views  may  be  expressed,  it 
appears  from  a  stud;/  of  codal  compliances  that  when  the  seasonal  pres- 
sure arises,  overtime  is  worked  despite  union  agreements  or  codal 
regulations. 

The  foregoing  is  significant  in  several  respects:   (l)  There  is  at 
present  a  spread  of  at  least  five  hours  in  working  time  between  places 
in  which  appreciable  fur  manufacturing  is  done.   (2)  Both  in  and  outside 
of  hew  York  City  an  appreciable  proportion  of  factory  workers  were  re- 
ported as  actually  working  35  hours  during  the  week  covered,  59  per  cent 
in  hew  York  City  and  39  per  cent  outside,   (o)  Codal  provisions  with 
respect  to  working  hours  cannot  be  made  without  regard  to  wage  provi- 
sions. 

K.   MOBILITY 

.  1 .  liability  of  Establishments 

From  the  standpoint  of  investment,  most  establishments  in  this 
Industry  could  move  easily  from  one  locality  to  another,  and  many  of 
them  could  move  overnight.  Actually,  such  freedom  does  not  exist  either 
because  of  the  nature  of  their  work  or  the  character  of  their  market  or 
the  source  of  material  and  labor  supply. 

In  hew  York  City,  many  establishments  cannot  even  leave  the  heart 
of  the  "fur  district"  advantageously.   In  a  few  city  blocks,  bounded  by 
Twenty-third  and  Thirty-second  Streets  on  the  north  and  south,  by  Eighth 
Avenue  and  Broadway  on  the  east  and  west,  the  bulk  of  the  nation's  fur 
work  is  done.   Indeed  most  of  the  work  is  done  in  two  dozen  buildings 
in. this  area.   It  is  estimated  that  ten  per  cent  of  the  workers  in  hew 
York  City  are  in  one  building  -  150  West  Thirtieth  Street.   This  area 
includes  not  only  fur  manufacturing  but  fur  dealers,  offices  of  dressers 
and  dyers,  lining  establishments  and  subsidiary  lines  such  as  pointing 
and  head  work.  As  soon  as  an  establishment,  especially  wholesale, 
leaves  this  district,  certain  disadvantages  arise.   These  vary  somewhat 
with  the  lines  of  work  done.  Manufacturers  of  cheap  lines  may  find 
certain  advantages  in  places  outside  of  the  fur  district  or  even  outside 
hew  York  City  that  more  than  offset  the  accompanying  disadvantages.   The 
location  of  trimming  manufacturing  is  influenced  by  the  advantage  of 
being  near  the  Coat  and  Suit  Industry. 

Outside  ITew  York  City,  most  establishments  cannot  easily  leave  their 
present  localities.   For  the  most  part,  these  establishments  are  custom 
manufacturers,  or  at  least  do  considerable  repairing  and  remodeling 
which  arises  in  the  local  community.   Most  wholesale  garment  manufactur- 
ing is  carried  on  by  concerns  with  long  established  places  of  business. 
However,  many  fur  trimming  establishments  can  move  rather  easily. 


1351-3 


.22- 


Laoor 


In  s  general  sense,  workers  in  any  branch  of  the  Industry  are  drawn 
from  a  common  pool.   For  e::am;;>le,  workers  in  wholesale  establishments 
may  go ,  at  the  end  of  the  season  in  this  branch  of  the  Industry,  to  the 
custom  manufacturing  branch  whose  season  is  then  opening.  Furthermore, 
workers  often  work  for  one  establishment  by  dry  and  another  by  night, 
especially  during  the  height  of  a  season.  However,  there  is  not  entire 
freedom.   Many  workers  specializing  in  garments  are  disinclined  to  do 
trimming  work  and  many  specializing  in  one  grade  of  fur  are  reluctant  to 
work  en  another,  especially  cheaper,  grade.   As  between  individual 
establishments,  there  is  complete  mobility  and  a  very  high  rate  of  labor 
turnover  exists  in  the  Industry,  especially  in  Hew  York  City. 

As  between  sections  of  the  country,  there  does  not  appear  to  be 
much  mobility.  Many  hew  York  City  workers  are  reluctant  to  leave  the 
city  and  even  the  "fur  district."   However,  workers  do  go  out  of  the 
district  and  city  -  preferably  to  nearby  places.   Many  workers  outside 
the  cit3^  do  not  wish  to  work  in  'the  city  and  many  others  would  be  unable 
to  obtain  work  in  the  city. 

In  view  of  sue  1  conditions,  it  appears  that  codal  regulations  are 
likely  to  have  little  influence  on  mobility  of  labor  between  areas, 
although  such  regulati  sus  might  have  more  influence  on  mobility  between 
and  vithin  branches  of  the  Industry.   So  far  as  branchps  of  the  Industry 
are  concerned,  different  codal  regulations  between  areas  would  affect 
some  branches  more  than  others,  and  establishments  doing  some  type  of 
work  more  than  those  doing  other  types. 

L.   COMPLIANCE 

.  State  K.P..A.  Compliance  Officers  throughout  the  country  have  found 
insuperable  difficulties  in  enforcing  the  provisions  of  the  Eur  Manufac- 
turing Code  because  of  the  inroossibility  of  determining  what  is  manufac- 
turing for  stock  as  distinguished  from  made-to-order  work.   The  diffi- 
culties were  enhanced  by  the  fact  that  difference  in  hours  under  the  Re- 
tail Code  and  the  Fur  Manufacturing  Code  created  confusion.   Manufac- 
turers claimed  to  be  custom  retailers  'and  refused  to  recognize  the  Fur 
Code  or  "resigned"  after  signifying  compliance.   In  a  measure,  this 
overlapping  conflict  was  found  to  be  the  case  in  hew  York  City  where 
some  forty  important  firms  in  the  heart  of  the  wholesale  market  claimed 
they  were  custom  fur  manufacturers  and  as  such  were  entitled  to  work 
longer  hours  than  wholesale  manufacturers. 

These  facts  furnish  force  to  the  view  that,  from  the  standpoint  of 
enforcement,  the  major  branches  of  the  Industry  must  be  treated  as  a 
uni  t . 

r 

M.   STAT I ST ICAL  I  INFORMATION 

Statistical  informpotion  in  this  Industry  is  cons-nicious  by  its 
absence.   Most  individuals  engaging  in  the  Industry  are  not  conscious  of 
any  common  interests  of  the  Industry  as  a  whole,  and  hence  no  incentive 


1351-B 


-23- 

lias  existed  for  accuaulatiug  even  elementary  trade  information.  The 
data  obtained  by  the  Commission  may  be  significant,  within  limits,  as  a 
straw  indicating  tendencies,  but  it  is  too  inadequate  to  constitute  a 
factual  basis  for  dealing  with  man:/  problems  of  the  Industry. 

In  view  of  this  situation,  code  recommendations  cannot  be  based 
solely  upon  statistical  data,  but  must  be  supplemented  by  information  A 
obt-ined  from  .other  sources. 


1351-3 


SECTION     III 


1351-C 


-1- 


SECTION-  III 

:.J3^VATlO.;i  3Y  MR.  ATKINS 

In  view  of  the  questions  raised 
as  to  the  merits  of  wage  classification, 
Mr.  Atkins  has  undertaken  to  set  forth  at 
this  point  the  problem,  as  he  sees  it,  of 
classification  and  the  alternative,  a  mini- 
mum wage. 


1351-C 


— 2-> 
SECTION  III 

ISSUES  INVOLVED  IN  CLASSIFICATION 

Tlie  formal  Administrative  actions  by  which  the  Special  Far  Commis- 
sion was  created  and  its  obligations  were  described  at  the  outset  of 
this  report.   The  Commission  has  traveled  around  the  United  States, 
holding  hearings  in  all  the  areas  covered  by  the  Industry.   As  recounted 
in  the  fore  part  of  this  report,  it  has  collected  statistical  informa- 
tion, some  of  which  is  appended  to  this  report.   It  has  interviewed, 
personally,  literally  hundreds  of  people  who  are  supposed  to  have  an 
expert  knowledge  of  the  Eur  Industry. 

It  is  possible  to  get  any  number  of  different  decisions  out  of  the 
evidence  and  experience  of  this  Commission,  each  of  which  will  have  con- 
siderable logic  to  defend  it  and  each  of  which  can  be  indicted  for  its 
lack  of  logic. 


ZONES  OF  AGREEMENT 

Most  of  those  acquainted  with  the  Fur  Industry  will  t  ree  to  the 
following: 

1.  The  existing  Code  wages  set  up  by  the  wholesale  manufacturing 
code  are  so  much  out  of  line  with  going  wages  outside  of  New  York 
City  that  they  cannot  be  enforced. 

2.  As  far  as  wholesale  fur  manufacturing  is  concerned,  New  York 
City  dominates  the  situation.   It  has  not  been  losing,  however,  to 
the  outside  markets.   Rather  during  the  past  10  years  there  has 
been  an  increasing  concentration  of  such  manufacturing  in  New  York 
and  an  attending  loss  in  manufacturing  in  other  parts  of  the  country. 

3.  The  Industry  is  observing  the  entrance  of  cheap  fur  coats, 
sealine  in  particular,  which  may  introduce  a  competition  with  the 
Cloak  and  Suit  Industry.   This  Industry  may  develop  outside  of  New 
York,  if  near-by  areas  are  given  low  wage  standards. 

4.  Wholesale  manufacturing  involves -a  production  pace  which  is 
more  strenuous  than  the  work  in  custom  shops,  department  stores, 
and  specialty  shops. 

5.  The  Cloak  and  Suit  Industry  through  manufacture  of  fur-trimmed 
coats  may  seriously  compete  with  the  Fur  Industry. 

6.  There  is  a  marked  tendency  toward  a  labor  surplus  in  New  York 
City  and  a  concentration  in  New  York  City  of  highly  skilled  workers, 
whereas  outside  of  New  York,  in  most  areas,  the  labor  market  is 
tight  at  <the  height  of  the  season,  labor  is  less  ski   j:d  in  the 
main,  and'  production  methods  are  less  advanced  than  they  are  in 

New  York. 


1351-C 


7.  In  New  York  City,  the  department  store  and,  to  somewhat  lesser 
exte.it,  the  custom  manufacturer  is  in  a  position  to  supply  more 
yearly  work  than  the  fur  manufacturer  and  that  outside  of  New  York 
employ  workers  who  tend  to  "be  employed  for  a  longer  interval  of 
time  than  is  the  practice  in  New  York. 

8.  Labor  organization  in  New  York  is  much  more  effective  than  it 
is  in  the  few  other  scattered  cities  in  which  organization  either 
exists  or  is  being  attempted.  In  the  main,  the  Par  Industry  out- 
side of  New  York  is  an  unorganized  industry. 

9.  The  existing  Code  has  "been  almost  without  any  effect  whatsoever 
outside  of  New  York  and  enforcement  of  the  Code  in  New  York  is  far 
from  satisfactory. 

10.  Cutside  of  the  New  York  area  there  is  a  greater  tendency  to 
col  tinue  in  employment  people  of  advanced  years, 

11.  The  ranges  of  skill  in  the  various  parts  of  the  country  vary 
greatly  from  place  to  place;  likewise,  wages. 

12.  The  classification  existing  in  the  New  York  market  is  not  fol- 
lowed in  other  markets  and  there  is  no  consistent  classification 
outside  of  New  York  City. 

1't,      The  cases  where  department  stores  engaged  in  manufacturing 
for  stock  constitute  a  comparatively  few  cases. 

14.   The  department  store  does  not  compete  with  wholesale  manufac- 
turing, "but  with  the  selling  function  and  the  repair  and  remodeling 
work  of  the  custom  shot). 


THE  ISSUES 
The  real  issues  that  the  Commission  has  faced  have  "been  two: 

(1)  Whether  classified  wage  schedules  should  be  recommended, 

(2)  Whether  simply  a  basic  minimum  wage  should  be  recommended. 

This  part  of  the  report,  therefore,  is  devoted  to  a  critical  anal- 
ysis of  classified  wage  scales  and  the  possibilities  of  a  basic  minimum 
v/age. 

GENERAL  CCNSIISIIATIONS 

There  is  room  for  considerable  doubt  as. to  whether  classified  wage 
schedules  are  desirable.   The  complexity  of  the  Industry  makes  their 
determination  largely  arbitrary  and  unscientific,   They  are  subject  to 
manipulation  by  interested  groups  and  drag  the  authority  of  the  Govern- 
ment into  the  Industry's  quarrels,  disputes,  and  conflicts.   The  exist- 
ing classified  wage  schedules  have  not  been  enforced,  indicating,  perhaps 

1351-C 


-4- 

that  classified  wage  schedules  are  largely  unenforceable  short  of  a  de- 
gree of  coercion  which  the  Government  at  present  either  is  unwilling  or 
unable  to  exercise. 

It  night  he  concluded,  therefore,  that  wage  regulations  in  the  Code 
should  "be  United  to  the  establishment  of  an  enforceable  basic  minimum 
wage.   Support  for  this  conclusion  is  given  in  the  concluding  sections 
of  this  report. 


THE  COMPLEXITY  OF  THE  INDUSTRY 

There  are  two  ways  of  studying  the  Fur  Industry.   First,  the  Fur 
industry  in  Hew  York  (embracing  all  types  of  producers)  wi4-!!  the  Fur 
Industry  in  the  country  as  a  whole.   Second,  the  different  types  of  fur 
producers  compared  with  each  other  -  that  is,  fur  manufacturers  as  com- 
pared to  the  custom  shops  and  department  stores. 


WHOLESALE  MAHUFACTURIHG  IH  HEW  YORK 

'Jholesale  manufacturing  is  characterized  by  a  high  degree  of  sea- 
sonality.  Although  the  amount  of  work  varies  from  season  to  season, 
8,  12,  16  weeks  of  work  has  been  the  lot  of  most  employees  in  the  whole- 
sale manufacturing  in  the  Hew  York  market  where  the  manufacturing  in- 
dustry is  concentrated. 

Hot  only  is  work  highly  seasonal,  but  the  job  tends  to  be  brief, 
after  the  fashion  of  the  building  trades.  A  worker  hired  at  9:00  o'clock 
may  find  himself  discharged  at  10:00  the  same  day.   An  emoloyer  located 
on  the  10th  floor  wishing  a  cutter  may  find  one  either  by  going  down  to 
the  3th  floor,  or  to  a  street  corner  in  the  wholesale  district. 

Labor  turnover  grinds  along  at  a  fearful  pace  even  in  the  active 
season  and,  coupled  with  the  ease  with  which  workers  can  be  turned  over, 
the  employer,  even  though  under  a  collective  contract,  finds  it  i^ossible 
to  intimidate  individual  employees  into  accepting  wages  and  hours  that 
violate  union  contracts. 

'Contracting  out  is  rampant  and,  to  the  degree  that  the  union 
presses,  the  individual  employer  is  under' an  incentive  to  resort  to  con- 
tracting.  Moreover,  individual  employees  out  of  jobs  solicit  work  which 
they  perform  either  in  their  own  homes  or  in  the  homes  of  thers,  work- 
ing alone  or  in  combination  with  their  aco^uaintances. 

Contrasted  with  the  outside  market  and  contrasted  particularly 
with  the  operations  in  the  custom  shop  and  department  store,  the  speed 
of  work  in  the  Hew  York  factories  is  greater.   Having  access  to  a  large 
labor  supply  of  the  most  skilled  mechanics  in  the  fur  business,  manage- 
ment finds  it  possible  to  line  these  men  up  in  a  system  of  production 
that  drives  the  worker 'along  from  cutter  to  finisher  in  a  dove-tailed 
series  of  processes. 


1351-C 


-5- 

The  manufacturing  unit  typically  is  small.   For  the  fur  workers  as 
a  whole  40  per  cent  of  the  worker's  according  to  our  figures  were  in  es- 
tablishments of  three  or  less  workers.  A  room  for  wholesale  manufactur- 
ing, LI  '  :■:  26',  which  accommodates  eight  workers  is  characteristic. 
Oftentimes  the  "boss  and  one  or  two  partners  constitute  the  "bulk  of  the 
work,  force.   Sometimes  this  leads  to  a  miniature  cooperative  in  which 
the  workers  in  effect  are  owners  and  share  the  risks  attending  owner- 
ship. 

To  this  description  must  "be  added  the  fact  that  the  death  rate  and 
birth  rate  of  the  business  enterprise  in  this  Industry  Is  exceedingly 
high,  that  financial  responsibility  in  this  Industry  is  such  that  the  . 

-:ers  approach  it  with  fear  and  trembling.   The  worker  of  today  may  be 
the  employer  of  tomorrow  and  also  the  worker  of  the  day  after  tomorrow. 
Investment  in  capital  e  -uipment  is  negligible,  a  shop  can  be  opened  on 
a  few  hours'  notice.  Ho   a  remarkable  extent  in  this  Industry,  losing 
one' s  job  does  not  mean  that  he  leaves  the  Fur  Industry,  but  rather  that 
he  becomes  a  self-emol'r,r^r,  thus  intensifying  the  competition  and  making 
more  difficult  the  succossfui  establishment  of  labor  standards. 


NEW  YORK  CUSTOM  WOES 

In  the  custom  field  in  Hew  York,  the  pace  is  somewhat  slower  than 
in  the  factory.   From  the  standpoint  of  arduousness  of  toil,  it  is 
thoroughly  possible  that  a  custom  worker  can  work  40  hours  with  less 
fatigue  than  a  factory  ^orker  can  work  35.   The  work  in  the  custom  houses 
does  not  involve  the  division  of  labor  to  the  extent  that  it  exists  in 
wholesale  manufacturing,   At  the  same  time,  repair  and  remodeling  and 
high  class  custom  work  calls  for  skill  and  perhaps  a  greater  variety  of 
skill  than  is  needed  in  the  worker  who  devoted  himself  to  a  single 
manufacturing  operation. 

In  the  provisions  proposed  for  the  Fur  Code,  the  custom  workers  are 
placed  in  the  same  category  as  the  factory  worker.   This  over-lapping 
classification  is  based  uoon  the  following: 

1.  There  is  some  inter change  of  workers  between  custom  and  manu- 
facturing work. 

2.  Although  custom  work  does  not  call  for  that  kind  of  skill  which 
makes  speed  possible,  it  does  call  for  an  all-around  craft  skill. 

3.  There  is  always  the  possibility  that  if  differing  standards  are 
placed  upon  these  two  industries  in  Hew  York  City,  the  manufacturer 
nay  allege  that  he  is  a  custom  retailer  or  the  custom  retailer  ma.y 
allege  that  he  is  a  manufacturer.  (it  is  recognized  that  there  are 
very  few  manufacturers  at  nresent  who  do  not  engage  in  retail  busi- 
ness on  the  side. ) 

4.  The  union  contract  in  Hew  York  City,-  insofar  as  it  is  effective, 
applies  similar  wages  to  both  industries.   It  should  be  observed, 

■.ever,  that  the  unions  have  always  recognized  the  need  of  the 
retailer  for  some  concession  on  the  matter  of  hours. 

1351-C 


-6- 

DUPARTMENT  STORE 

•  Department  stores  in  New  York  City  as  a  whole  are  not  unionized. 
Their  operations  are  not  greatly  dissimilar  from  those  of  the  custom 
retailer.   Their  chief  "business  is  repair  and  remodeling  with  some  oc- 
casional custom  work.   In  a  few  cases,  they  manufacture  some  goods  for 
stock.   In  certain  other  cases,  they  contract  work  out. 

The  work  force  in  the  department  store  usually  is  paid  less  than 
union  wages.   The  hours  of  work  commonly  follow  those  of  the  master  re- 
tail code.   The  work  is  varied  and  the  term  of  employment  is  much  more 
certain  than  it  is  in  the  manufacturing  side  of  the  fur  business.   De- 
partment store  executives  point  out  that  they  have  workers  who  work  the 
year  round,  some  of  them  get  two  weeks'  vacation  with  pay.   They  point 
o\it  workers  who  have  been  with  the  firm  constantly  employed  for  10,  15, 
25  years. 


EUR  MANUFACTURING-  OUTSIDE  0?  NEW  YORK  ' 

Outside  of  Hew  York  City,  there  is  very  little  wholesale  fur  manu- 
factxiring.   The  evidence  presented  to  the  Commission  indicates  that  there 
has  been  a  constant  loss  of  wholesale  fur  manufacturing  from  the  Boston 
area,  from  Buffalo,  from  the  Northwest,  from  California,  and  from  the 
Chicago  regions  to  the  New  York  area  during  the  past  ten  years.   The 
evidence  with  respect  to  this  transfer  has  been  included  in  the  appen- 
dices of  this  report.   In  wholesale  fur  manufacturing,  ITew  York  concen-r 
trates  nearly  95  per  cent  of  the  manufacturing  of  the  United  States. 
This  growing  concentration  is  in  sharp  contrast  with  the  development 
in  tne  other  needle  trades.   Moreover,  this  concentration  has  occurred 
despite  the  fa.ct  that  for  the  last  20  years  Hew  York  has  been  engaged 
in  dealing  with  unions  and  paying  union  scales  on  the  whole,  if  any- 
thing, more  faithfully  than  they  have  been  paying  in  the  past  year. 

This  trek  to  Hew  York  is  to  be  explained  in  terms  of  accessibility 
to  the  skin  market,  accessibility  to  a  large  skilled  labor  reserve,  ac- 
cessibility to  the  market  where  buyers  concentrate,  and  the  development 
in  ITew  York  City  of  a  manufacturing  technique  which  no  other  part  of  the 
country  has  yet  found  it  possible  to  equal. 

The  factual  material  showing  the  present  dispersion  of  fur  manu- 
facturing is  included  at  the  end  of  this  report. 


CUSTOM  WORK  OUTSIDE  OF  NSW  YORK 

Custom  work  outside  of  Hew  York  City  presents  a  sharp  contrast  both 
to  manufacturing  in  New  York  and  custom  work  in  New  York.   Workers  are 
less  specialized.   The  distinction  between  first  and  second  class  cutters 
first  and  second  class  operators,  first  and  second  class  nailers,  first 
and  second  class  finishers,  exists  in  few  places  and  where  it  does  exist, 
it  is  not  defined  in  the  same  manner  that  it  is  in  the  New  York  market. 
Nailers,  as  such,  outside  of  New  York  are  practically  non-existent.  Pro- 
duction methods  stand  out  in  sharp  contrast.   The  pace  of  work  is  slow- 
er.  The  work  is  not  as  routinized  as  it  is  in  New  York. 


-7- 

Perhaps  some  idea  of  the  situation  outside  of  New  York  can  be  se- 
cured from  considering  the  observations  of  our  technical  expert  who  in- 
vestigated shop  conditions.   Consider  but  one  example:  Boston.   Boston 
is  a  relatively  high  class  and  alert  production  center  compared  with 
other  parts  of  the  country.   Yet  in  even  this  case  only  a  relatively 
small  proportion  of  the  workers  possess  the  speed  and  skill  which  would 
enable  them  to  hold  ccirpafsCble  jobs  in  New  fork  Ci'ty.   Specifically,  the 
opinion  of  our  expert  was  that  out  of  16  cutters  whom  he  observed  at  work, 
6  could  get  regular  jobs  in  a  Hew  York  custom  house.   The  remainder  could 
get  jobs  helping  out  the  retail  at  the  height  of  the  season  only  for  about 
$30.00  per  week  instead  of  the  $50. o0  for  which  a  first  class  cutter  in 
New  York  qualifies.   Watching  operators  at  work  and  comparing  them  with 
New  York,  it  was  his  opinion  that  15  out  of  19  observed  could  qualify  for 
retail  work,  but  none  of  them  for  wholesale  work.   Four  out  of  the  19 

he  would  call  apprentices, 

t- 

Cf  41  finishers,  30,  according  to.  his  judgment,  would  qualify  as 
second  class  finishers  at  the  height  of  the  season,  and  11  would  qualify 
as  tapers.  Hone  '/ore  really  first  class  finishers.  Not,  but  what  they 
were  incapable  of  good  work;  rather,  they  were  slow.   In  summary,  our 
expert  adds  this  significant  statement:   "They  (the  Boston  furriers) 
live  up  to  production  methods  of  20   years  ago."  Excluding  Chicago,  this 
brief  thumb-nail  sketch  of  Boston  could  be  followed  with  comparisons  less 
favorable  in  almost  all  the  other  parts  of  the  country  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  plants. 

One  additional  point  should  be  added.  Whether  fur  work  be  custom  or 
department  store  work  or  specialty  shop  work,  outside  of  New  York  work  is 
likely  to  be  more  stable.   The  shortage  of  skilled  labor  makes  it  neces- 
sary for  management  to  maintain  a  good  part  of  its  work  force  throughout 
the  year  a::d  when  highly  skilled  cutters  are  hired,  they  commonly  are 
paid  even  higher  wages'  than  are  paid  in  Hew  York  City.   This  is  simply 
testimony  to  the  fact  that  workers  have  to  be  paid  to  be  attracted  away 
from  Hew  York. 

Surplus  labor  to  take  bare  of  a  seasonal  peak  load  outside  of  Hew 
York  is  usually  unskilled,  casual  labor  not  primarily  dependent  upon  the 
Par  Industry  for  a  livelihood.  At  the  height  of  the  season,  both  in  the 
fields  of  manufacturing,  custom  and  department  store  work,  management 
finds  it  necessary  to  hire  seamstresses  -  old  women  and  young  girls  who 
are  handy  with  needles  but  who  know  very  little  about  furs,  to  add  to  the 
work  force  when  the  pressure  for  repair  and  remodeling  arises  in  the  fall 
of  the  year.   These  operatives,  manifestly  incapable  of  being  used  in  a 
market  like  Hew  York,  are  frequently  married  and  retire; from  their  jobs 
at  tne  end  of  the  busy  season,  resume  their  duties  as  housewives,  some 
taking  an  occasional  job  of  dressmaking  for  their  friends  or  acquain- 
t"..ices. 

CIASSIBIBD  WAGES  -  FB.0  AND  CON 

In  view  of  the  complexity  of  this  Industry  as  described  in  preced- 
ing paragraphs  and  the  uolicy  job  which  any  detailed  system  of  control 
will  involve  it  is  pertinent  to  raise  the  question:   What  is  the  policy 
of  the  H.H.A.  with  respect  to  classified  wage  scheduels? 

1351-C 


-8- 

Since  the  inception  of  the  N.R. A.  it  has  "become  the  practice  in  a 
number  of  industries,  especially  in  the  needle  trades,  to  set  up  wage 
scales''  which  classify  the  workers  in  a  variety  of  ways.   In  some  cases, 
the  wage  differentials  are  "based  upon  geographic  location,  in  others, 
they  are  "based  upon  skill,  and  in  still  others,  they  are  "based  upon  a 
combination  of  geographic  location  and  skill. 

The  argument  for  differentials  generally  is  based  upon  a  number 
of  different  things: 

1.  It  is  asserted  that  tne  cost  of  living  varies  widely  from  one 
section  of  the  country  to  another  and  that  the  wages  which  are 
fixed  ought  properly  to  take  cognizance  of  such  different  costs 
of  living. 

2.  It  is  said  that  it  has  been  customary  for  many  decades  to  pay 
different  wages  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  and  that  these 
long  established  practices  of  the  Industry  ought  not  be  lightly 
disturbed. 

3.  Perhaps  most  important,  the  argument  for  wage  differentials 
proceeds  on  the  notion  that  the  purpose  of  the  N. R. A.  is  to  lay 
down  conditions  upon  which  different  producers  may  compete  fairly. 
A  wage  scale  which  sets  one  part  of  the  country  above  another  is 
presumably  based  on  the  feeling  that  the  lower  wage  scale  serves  as 
an  off-set  to  the  handicaps  under  which  the  particular  employer  may 
be  suffering  because  of  his  distance  from  the  market,  the  availa- 
bility or  the  absence  of  skilled  workers,  the  development  of  high 
speed  production  technique,  etc. 

Against  wage  differentials,  it  can  be  argued: 

1»   They  are  almost  invariably  highly  unfavorable;  arrived  at  un- 
scientifically and  in  haphazard  fashion  they  reflect  far  more  the 
pressure  of  groups  seeking  to  gain  special  advantage  than  they  do 
the  actual  conditions  which  exist  and  which  should  determine  the 
wage  differentials,  if  any. 

2.  Wage  differentials  are  capable  of  infinite  manipulation.   They 
lend  themselves  easily  to  attempts  by  unscrupulous  interests  to  use 
them  for  their  own  advantage  and  thus  to  distort  the  purpose  for 
which  they  were  laid  down. 

3.  The  setting  up  of  wage  differentials  for  a  large  number  of  dif- 
ferent classes  of  workers  and  for  a  number  of  different  parts  of 
the  country,  and  for  a  large  number  of  different  kinds  of  producers 
creates  a  situation  in  which,  if  these  wage  differentials  were  to 
mean  anything,  an  enforcement  machinery  must  be  brought  into  ex- 
istence which  in  size  and  in  cost  would  be  prohibitive  for  the 
Industry  as  at  present  constituted.   For  wage  differentials  with- 
out enforcement  are  meaningless. 

A  realistic  view  of  the  history  of  the  Fur  Industry  leads  to 
the  inescapable  conclusion  that  perhaps  more  than  any  'other  industry 
it  is  in  need  of  policing  if  the  rules  and  regulations  which  have 
been  prescribed  are  not  to  be  flagrantly  violated. 
1351-C 


-9- 

4.  If  wage  differentials  are  to  "be  justified,  they  must  be  "based 
i  such  a  Variety  of  factors  including,  for  example,  the  com- 
petitive nature  of  the  Industry,  the  size  and? efficiency  of  the 
different  plants,  the  speed  and  the  skill  of  the  worker's,  the 
ccst  of  living,  etc.   To  reach  a  thoroughly  scientific  and  im- 
partial conclusion  from  such  an  imposing  list  of  factors,  is  a 
task  which  is  well  nigh  impossible. 

5.  '.Vage'  differentials  are  more  easily  justified  in  the  case  of  the 
lowest  r>aid  wage  earners  thin  in  the  case  of  the  more  skilled  work- 
ers, since  it  is  ^resumed  that  the  more  highly  skilled  workers  may, 

,  the  coercive  action  of  collective  bargaining,  effect  for  them- 
selves conditions  which  to  them  are  more  satisfactory. 

6.  The  establishment  of  a  system  of  classified  wage  rates  which 
must  needs  be  e  :tramely  complex  may  result  in  stratification  of 
conditions  which,  even  if  reasonable  at  the  present  time,  would 
soon  become  unreasonable  aid  which  would  as  a  consequence  lead  to 
considerable  discontent  and  often  violation. 


PHG.HI'MS  IITV0LV3D  I  IT  CLASSIFICATION 

In  working  out  a  system  of  classified  wages  for  the  various  kinds 
of  occupations  and  the  varying  degrees  of  skill  and  the  varying  degrees 
of  conditions  in  the  different  parts  of  the  country,  it  may  be  asked: 
Are  not  difficulties  being  raised  which  will  result  in  ceaseless  pro- 
tests and  c&asaless  adjudications  if  any  real  attempt  is  made  to  en- 
force such  scales? 

Classified  wage  schedules  call  for: 

1.  A  detailed  description  of  the  duties  of  each  item  that  enters 
into  the  classification. 

2.  It  involves  a  comparison  of  such  items  as  degree  of  skill,  re- 
sponsibility, speed  of  work,  degree  of  supervision  involved,  the 
cost  of  work  not  performed  up  to  standards,  work  conditions,  the 
period  of  time  necessary  to  become  a  craftsman  in  the  particular 
line.   This  should  be  worked  out  for  each  element  in  the  classifi- 
cation, and  the  comparison  should  be  made  between  the  various 
items  in  the  classifications. 

3.  In  describing  the  basis  of  wage  payments,  there  should  be  a 
determined  attempt  made  to  avoid  any  sort  of  ambiguity.  Ambigui- 
ties are  loop-holes  which  defeat  the  purpose  of  classification. 

In  other  words,  each  classification  must  be  distinct  and  incapable 
of  confusion  with  other  items  which  are  classified  and  any  regula- 
tion with  respect  to  hours  and  overtime  must  be  in  unequivocal 
language,  language  which  is  understandable  both  to  the  employer  and 
to  the  worker.   If  this  is  not  done  any  reasonably  smart  employer 
can  resort  to  various  tricks  of  reclassification  and  get  around 
the  terms  laid  down  in  the  Code. 


1351-C 


-10- 

It  is  questionable  whether  classified  wage  schedules  supply  a 
satisfactory  answer  to  the  problems  raised-  in  the  preceding  paragraphs. 
In  addition,  in  this  Industry  in  particular,  the  question  is  pertinent: 
Granting  that  you  do  define  the  various  classifications  am  define  wages 
and  hours,  how  can  you  prevent  people  from  escaping  by  resource  to  the 
various  forms  of  contracting  which  exist  in  the  Industry? 

The  Fur  Industry  at  present  is  shot  full  through  and  through  with 
the  institution  of  contracting.   Hew  York-  union  wage  scales  are  fre- 
quently flaunted  in  the  New  York  market  through  a  variety  of  devices  and 
tricks.   They  exist  as  realities  in  those  shops  where  the  unions  are  a 
real  factor,  where  the  unions  have  power.   At  the  present  time,  the 
N.R.A.  Code- is  not  the  real  force  controlling  wage'  scales  in  Hew  York. 
To  the  extent  that  individual  craftsmen  have  skill  that  is  badly  needed, 
and  hence  possess  individual  bargaining  ability,  and  to  the  extent  to 
which  the  unions  possess  power,  the  N.R.A.  wage  scales  have  real  meaning. 
(A  note  on  the  union  situation  in  New  York  is  included  in  the  appendix 
of  this  re;oort.)   In  other  words,  primarily  it  is  not  the  N.R.A.  Code 
that  is  functioning  in  Hew  York;  the  N.R.A.  Code  has  meaning  largely  to 
the  extent  that  labor  possesses  power,  and  at  the  present  time  there  is 
a  life  and  death  struggle  going  on  between  a  right  and  left  wing  move- 
ment with  the  employers  playing  one  against  the  other  to  the  detriment 
of  both. 

THE.  PLATE  L1AKSRS  -  AH  ILLUSTRATION  OF  CLASSIFICATION 

Here  are  the  manufacturers  of  plates  in  Hew  York  City.   The  Ameri- 
can Fur  Plate  and  Trimming  Manufacturers '  Association,.  Inc.  has  furnish- 
ed us  with  a  list  of  209  firms  engaged  in  this  business  in  the  City  of 
Hew  York  with  the  note:   "The  names  of  many  firms,  are  not  included  in 
this  list  due  to  the  difficulty '■  in  locating  them.   Accordiiv;  to  our 
estimation,  there  are  approximately  300  more  manufacturers.' 

The  existing  Code  requires  of  the  plat'e  makers  the  same  standards 
that  are  applied  to  other  fur  work  in  Hew  York  City,  but  the  plate 
makers  have  steadfastly  refused  to  observe  the  Code  terms.   They  have 
refused  to  purchase  labels  for  their  merchandise.   They  have  refused  to 
recognize  that  the  Code  Authority  had  power  to  police  them.   They  feel 
that  they  should  be  granted  special  terms'. 

What  reasons  can  be  given  for  establishing  a  separate  classifica- 
tion for  plate  makers?   It  can  be  argued: 

1.  That  plate  making  does  not  compete  with  the  fur  garment  and 
trimming  manufacturing.  This  is  tiue.  Plate  making  is  in  competi- 
tion with  skins  and  skins  are  outside  the  review' of  this  study. 
Therefore,  the  parties  at  interest  with  respect  to  plate  making 
have  not  been  heard  on  the  question  of  what  should  be  done  with 
respect  to  plate-making  wages.  ' 

2.  The. plate  makers  inasfar  as  they  have  been  organized  have, 
rather  consistently,:  played  with  the  right  wing  union.  This  has 
resulted  in  developing  a  friendly -attitude  toward  them  on  the  part 
of  fur  interests  which  have  been  trying  to  fight  the  left  wing. 

1351-C 


-11- 

In  other  words,  this  group  meets  with  little  opposition  amongst  the 
fur  interests  and  it  is  easy  to* grant  them  low  classified  wages.  These 
wage's  are  in  the  fore  part  of  this  renort. 

$33  for  cutters 
28  for  operators.  .  . 
23  for  retailers 
25  for  finishers 

And  this  is  the  decision  despite,  the  fact  that  the  Code  scale  in  Hew 
York  City  for  fur  manufacturing  is  350.60  for  first  class  cutters, 
sM-l-.OO  'for  second  class  cutters;  341.80  for  first  class  operators, 
535.20  for  second  class  operators,  etc. 

But  the  problem  is  even  more  complicated.   Insofar  as  fur  plate 
makers  stick  to  the  making  of  fur  plates,  they  are  in  competition  with 
the  skin  trade  alone.  But  inasfar  as  they  make  trimmings  on  coats  tney 
are  a  part  of  the  Fur  Industry  and  in  competition  with  the  other  branch- 
es of  the  Pur  Industry. 

So  far  this  practice  of  making  of  trimmings,  collars,  cuffs  and^ 
scarfs  is  not  widespread;  but  to  the  extent  to  which  it  does  exist,  it 
is  a  competitive  threat  to  the  Trimming  Industry  which  is  asked  to  pay 
the  higher  scales.  Obviously,  the  answer  is  to  require  that  plate 
people  inasfar  as  they  are  engaged  in  trimming  work,  meet  the  regular 
scales.  But  even  such  a  decision,  if  made,  must  recognize  the  fact  that 
these  people  do  not  recognize  the  Code  Authority;  they  do^ not  contribute 
to  its  support;  they  refuse  entrance  to  inspectors.  And  always  there  is 
the 'chance  to  say:   "We  can't  separate  plate  making  from  trimming  work; 
the  workers  do  both  work."   In  any  case,  there  arises  a  real  policing 
job. 

Perhaps  it  should  also  be  placed  upon  record  that  the  United  Fur 
Manufacturers'  Association  which  claimed  70  members  that  while  Code 
making  proceedings  were  going  on  at  Washington,  they  were  assured  that 
their  demand  would  be  granted  but  would  not  be  placed  in  the  formal 
record  because,  if  such  an  attempt  were  made,  it  would  hold  up  proceed- 
ings.  In  other  words,  they  allege  something  of  a  gentleman's  agreement 
which  is  now  binding  on  the  1J.R.A.   Also,  it  is  alleged  that  in  the 
hearings  of  January  12  and  13,  1934,  "It  was  agreed  by  all  the  repre- 
sentatives of  the  proponent  associations  and  the  Administration  offi- 
cials not  to  include  in  the  Code  the  third  class  minimum  rates,  prevent- 
ing thereby  any  confusion  that  might  result  among  the  out-of-town  mem- 
bers of  the  Industry  who  are  not  working  on  skins." 

On  the  other  hand,  it  is  maintained  that  the  representatives  of  the 
plate  makers  were  told  that  the  Code  would  approve'  any  wage  schedule 
proposed  by  the  plate  makers  which  was  approved  by  the  President  of  the 
international  Pur  Workers  Union.  The  welter  of  letters  and  reported 
conversations  can  not  be  satisfactorily  unscrambled,  -but  these  things 
can  not  be  in  doubt:  The  Pur  Code  on  its  face  does  not  grant  exemption 
to  these -people;  the  fur  plate  people  have  refused  to  abide  by  the  Code 
as  it  is  written. 


-12- 

In  effect,  in  granting  these  people  third  class  rates,  the  decision 
simply  adjusts  itself  to  the  fact  that  the  employers  in  this • Industry 
can  not  "be  made  to  pay  first  or  second  class  rates.  But  it  illustrates 
the  point  that  as  soon  as  classifications  are  set  up  more  classifica- 
tions are  needed;  and  as  more  classifications  are  worked  out  the  "basic 
standards  are  undermined  and  nullified.   • 

VARIOUS  SYSTEMS  OF  CLASS IF ICATIOHS 
..-'   POSSIBLE  I1T  ?■■-'•£:  FUh  INDUS THY 

Despite' the  fact  that  classified  wages  in  this  Industry  will  pro- 
duce a  problem  immediately  of  granting  exceptions  through  a  rental 
agency  it  can  be  argued: 

1.   That  the  N.R.A.  should  set  up  a  minute  classification  of  wages 
in  the  Fur  Industry  for •various  classes  of  workers,  not  only  for 
unskilled,  semi-skilled  and  skilled,  difficult  as  these  terms  may 
be  to  define,  but  also  for  cutters,  first  and  second  class; 
operators,  first  and  second  class;  nailers,  first  and  second  class; 
finishers,  first  and  second  class;  general  craft  workers,  finish- 
ing assistants,  and  learners,  with  differing  wage  scales  in  differ- 
ent .geographical  areas,  and  with  a  distinction  made  between  whole- 
sale and.  custom  on  the  one  hand,  and  trimming  manufacture  on  the 
other....  ....     .■■  .- 

2.t .  It  is  possible  to  arrange  a  somewhat  similar  or  dissimilar 
division  of  .crafts  and  la?/  down  one  set  of  regulations  covering 
fm-. manufacturing  and  another  set  for  retailers  of  furs.   Con- 
sideration might  be  given  to  various  groups ,  particularly  the 
department  store,  and  to  a  somewhat  lesser  extent,  to  the  out-of- 
town  custom  houses  who  employ  their  workers  for  longer  periods  of. 
time  during  the  year  than  the  wholesale  manufacturing  industry 
commonly  does.,  and  who  have  upon  their  staff,  workers  who  have  had 
full-time  work  for  years,  -In  contrast  to  the  rather  typical  six, 
twelve  and  eighteen  Week-employment  period  in  the  New  York  Manu- 
facturing .industry  .   It  might  be  possible  also  to  recognize  that 
the  department  stores  -employ  old  people  and,  in  many  cases,,  give 
two  weeks'  vacation  with  "jay, 'and  allot  them  special  considerations 
on  the  ground  that  if  they  are  treated  like  manufacturing  enter-  ■ 
prises,  they  will  1jq 'forced  to-  discharge  -some  of  their  present 
workers.  Also,  :SQnie- consideration  might  be  given  the  fact  that  the 
department . stores  .are  already  operating  under,  retail  codes  and  that 
standards  which  apply  to  them  should  not  seriously  interfere  with 
existing  setup  of  hours  within  their  plants. 

3.  It  is  possible  to  compromise  on  even  more  simple  classifica- 
tion. But  to  the  extent  the  classification  is  made  less  compre- 
hensive, to  the  extent  it  will  distort  and  less  realistically  re- 
flect the  variety  of  condition's  in  the  Industry."  In  any  "case,,  the 
Fur  Industry  does  .not; present  a  simple  picture  and  classification, 
if  attempted  in  this  Industrjr,  cannot  be  a  simple  matter." 

4.  Classifications  may  be  established  in  terms  of  some  base  area, 
arbitrarily  chosen  or  fixed  by  successful  pressure  of  an  interested 
group.   It  should  be  observed  that  the  wholesale  code  wrote  the 

1351-C 


-13- 

wages  of  cutters  and  of  the  other  crafts  of  the  Industry  to  a  high 
per  cent  of  the  Hew  York  price.  The  Commission  is  agreed  that 
these  wages  are  unworkable.  Obedience  to  the  stimulations  in  iTew 
York  has  "been  deplorably  deficient  and  outside  of  Hew  York 
practically  no  one  has  paid  any  attention  to  the  Code.  And  this, 
regardless  of  the  fact  that  the  Code  to  date  applies  only  to 
wholesale  manufacturers. 

All  of  these  variations  are  possible  if  classiciation  is  attempted 
and  all  of  them  could  be  defended. 

CLASSIFIED  ?AGS  SCHEDULES  AS  A  FIGHTIHG  TOOL  EOT.  LABOR 

The  classified  wage  schedule  recommendations  at  the  outset  of  this 
report  accept  the  wages  set  in  the  collective  contracts  between  em- 
ployers and  one  of  the  two  contending  unions  located  in  hew  York  City. 
It  is  possible  x,o   build  the  rates  for  the  areas  outside  of  ITew  York 
City  using  such  contract  wages  as  the  base  of  the  pyramid. 

Conceivably,  such  a  policy  might  play  into  the  hands  of  organized 
labor  who  could  declare  that  the  employer,  when  he  does  not  obey  code 
regulations,  is  not  only  fighting  the  union  and  the  union  scale  de- 
manded (where  a  union  exists)  but  that  the  employer  is  also  fighting 
the  Government  of  the  United  States. 

It  is  common  for  organized  labor  to  insist  upon  nominal  wages  in 
collective  bargaining  contracts  during  the  periods  of  depression  when 
the  going  wages  are  all  out  of  line  with  what  the  collective  contracts 
stipulate.  Labor  feels  commonly  that  there  is  a  psychological  value  in 
holding  the  wages  of  carpenters,  for  example,  at  $1.75  an  hour,  even 
though  they  are  actually  working  at  a  given  moment  for  73  cents. 
Standards  on  paper  in  the  collective  contract  may  represent  especially 
in  time  of  depression,  aspirations  and  constitute  as  such  an  announce- 
ment of  an  intention  to  get  the  nominal  wages  at  some  future  date,  as 
soon  as-  the  unions  achieve  or  accumulate  power  by  themselves,  or  receive 
it  as  a  legacy  from  improved  industrial  conditions. 

The  Problem  of  Talcing  Sides 

"ne  need  but  look  at  the  matter  of  Federal  Relief,  concessions  to 
ex-service  men,  the  A. A. A.,  our  banking  legislation,  and  our  money 
manipulation  to  realize  that  government  is  a  function  of  pressure  groups. 
3ut  whether  the  Government  should  consciously  align  itself  with  any 
given  pressure  group  in  modern  society  is  a  real  question. 

In  the  case  of  hours  and  wages  although  there  may  be  certain 
limited  areas  within  which  the  interests  of  employers  and  employees  are 
identical,  the  intentions  and  aspirations  of  workers,  both  unorganized 
and  organized,  in  the  main  are  in  conflict  with  the  intentions  and 
aspirations  of  employers  unorganized  and  organized.   This  is  true 
despite  the  antagonisms  within  the  groups  themselves.  Traditionally, 
the  attitude  of  the  Government  toward  this  opposition  interest  has  been 
to  lay  down  a  few  rules  to  the  effect  that  the  fighting  would  be  carried 
on  without  too  much  social  disorder.   The  parties  at  interest  have  been 
allowed  to  fight  each  other  and  whatever  the  result  was,  it  was  commonly 
accepted  as  the  result. 

1351-C 


-14- 

The  Government  lies  seldom  intervened  to  coerce  either  party  in  any 
direct  fashion.  The  activities  of  the  Bureau  of  Labor  were  largely 
those  of  offering  mediators  to  Taring  the.  parties  together. 

It  is  no.t  the  purpose  here  to  pass  judgment  -anon  these  matters. 
Whether  one  thinks  the  traditional  governmental  attitude  is  right  or 
wrong  depends  upon  one's  personal  philosophy,  and  that  is  determined, 
in  most  cases,  by  whether  or  not  one  is  an  employer  or  an  employee. 
The  most  disturbing  point  here  is  that  when  a  break  is  made  with  this 
traditional  attitude,  the  antagonisms  and  oppositions  which  arise  multi- 
ply in  power  and  effectiveness  to  the  extent  which  the  break  with  the 
past  is  widespread.   To  this  must  be  added  the  question  of  whether 
classified  wage  schedules,  so  proposed  in  this  report,  will  accomplish 
what  they  are  intended  to  accomplish. 

STJUTDA?Jj5  AHD  Blh?03.CEi\iEIIT 

While  it  is  thoroughly  possible  to  set  standards  (l)  to  serve  a 
fi  hting  weapon  in  the  hands  of  organized  labor,  or  (2)  to  bring  about 
a  transfer  of  power  to  labor,  any  policy  which  sets  such  standards 
should  be  adopted  only  after  careful  consideration  of  the  problem  of 
enforcement . 

If  labor  standards  are  set  at  such  a  level  that  85  per  cent  of  the 
employers  concerned  are  recognized  offenders,  (see  appended  information 
on  compliance)  the  process  will  bring  into  disrepute  the  whole  operation 
of  the  ii.H.A.  as  far  as  the  lur  Industry  is  concerned.   On  the  matter  of 
hours  alone  and  for  wholesale  fur  manufacturing  alone,  (not  custom  shops 
or  department  stores  or  specialty  shops),  there  were  1,992  violations 
in  Hew. York  City  discovered  in  the  period  from  September  4  to  October 
12,  1934,  a  period  of  but  40  days. 

In  addition  to  the  cases  before  the  National  Compliance  Board,  at 
the  date  this  is  being  written,  there  are  118  cases  pending  at  43  Broad- 
way, the  Hew  York  headquarters  of  the  iT.H.A.   It  is  obvious  that  this 
process  of  piling  up  cases,  especially  of  those  in  the  magistrates' 
courts  cannot  go  on  indefinitely. 

At  the  same  time  it  is  thoroughly  possible  that  enforcement  in  this 
Industry,  especially  in  "lev/  York  City,  is  a  function  of  the  nature  of 
the  Industry  and  its  members  as  well  as  the  particular  wage  scale  or 
scales  that  may  be  established.   Any  control  program  which  seeks  to 
guide  the  Pur  Industry  will  meet  rough  going. 

On  the  other  hand,  however,  if  standards  are  set  up,  standards 
which  are  lived  up  to  in  90  per  cent  of  the  cases,  the  recalcitrant  10 
per  cent  can  be  sat  upon  which  the  approval  and  support  of  the  90  per 
cent,  which  in  effect  means  that  the  10  per  cent  can  be  disciplined 
within  limits. 

ITor  should  the  .U.K.  A.  expect  more  than  this.  The  IT.H.A.  can  not 
overnight  overcome  the  opposition  arising  from  the  ideas  and  beliefs 
not  only  of  business  men,  but  of  lawyers,  judges,  professional  people 
and  the  great  mass  of  people  who  have  inherited  the  habits  and  tradi- 
tions of  society  .which  thinks  deminantly  in  business  terms. 

1351-C 


-i15'-' 

I5GAL  F0W5R  YZP.SUS  ZCO'JOMIC  POWER 

The  annoying  fact  that  faces  one  who  is  interested  in  protecting 
labor's  interest  in  matters  of  this  kind  is  that  in  regard  to  enforcing 
a  complicated  system  cf  wage  standards,  government  can  not  achieve  the 
power  of  a  labor  union. 

Approach  a  department  store  in  Hew  York  City.  The  union  scale 
which  is  written  in  the  collective  agreement  has  no  meaning  to  it.  For 
first  class  cutters,  instead  of  $50.60,  they  may  be  paying  $34.00,  and 
so  on  through  the  list.   The  union  scale  calls  for  35  hours;  they  are 
working  40  and  44  hours.  You  ask  them,  "Can't  you  operate  on  35  hours 
a  week?"   "Can't  you  pay  union  scales?"   Their  answer  is:   "We  cannot 
treat  cur  fur  workers  differently  than  we  treat  our  other  workers  on 
the  matter  of  hours.  We  ear-not  VW   the  wages  in  the  Code  and  we  cannot 
separate  manufacturing  operations  or  repair  and  remodeling  from  such 
busheling  operations  as  attend  the  sale  of  a  finished  garment." 

These  answers  you  rather  expect.  You  recognize  that  any  code  you 
draw  up  with  respect  to  them  will  be  a  great  inconvenience.  You  listen 
while  they  tell  you  they  do  not  hire  their  workers  for  six  or  eight 
months  during  the  year.   They  hire  them  all  year  round,  giving  them  two 
weeks'  vacation  with  pay.  They  point  to  gray-haired  workers  have  have 
been  in  their  employ  twenty  to  thirty  years.   They  say:   "Our  conditions 
are  not  like  those  of  the  Fur  Industry  on  Seventh  Avenue. 

It  is  all  very  true.   It  is  also  true  that  if  the  union  comes  along 
and  pulls  the  shop,  the  department  store  will  make  some  sort  of  arrange- 
ment that  will  meet  the  demands  of  the  union  which  for  New  York  City  are 
identical  with  the  code  provisions.   The  sad  part  of  it  is  that  in  the 
absence  of  the  union,  little  can  be  done.   The  N.R.A.  cannot  pull  a 
shoT)  and  must  rely  on  courts  and  public  opinion,  both  of  which  agencies 
have  proven  inadequate  in  regard  to  the  Fur  Industry,  and  in  Hew  York 
City  the  unions  have  succeeded  in  unionizing  but  few  department  stores. 

In  the  absence  of  present  power  union  officials  can  insist  on  paper 
scales  even  though  they  are  not  paid.  They  have  some  psychological 
value.  For  the  union  official  to  say:  "Yes,  we  are  down  and  out  right 
no-.:,  and  the  employers  are  getting  away  with  murder,  but  we'll  get  them 
when  times  improve,"  is  one  thing.  It  is  quite  another  for  the  Govern- 
ment to  say  the  rules  it  has  laid  down  are  "down  and  out"  but  they  will 
have  meaning  at  some  future  date* 

This  Industry,  taken  as  a  whole,  is  not  well  organized.   In  ITew 
York  where  the  strongest  degree  of  organization  exists,  and  where  tnere 
exists  the  greatest  possibilities  for  collective  action  in  the  Industry, 
there  is  constant  warfare  between  the  two  groups:   The  International  Fur 
Workers  Union  and  the  Fur  Workers  International  Union,  commonly  described 
as  the  right  and  left  wing,  respectively. 

Outside  of  Hew  York,  both  organizations  appear  at  different  spots, 
and  sometimes  in  the  same  city,  each  claiming  more  power  than  the  other. 

At  the  hearings  in  hew  York  the  Fur  Workers  International  Union 
claimed  to  represent  95  per  cent  of  the  workers  in  the  ITew  York  market- 

1351-C 


-15- 

The  International  Fur  Workers  Union  claimed  to  represent  5,000  workers 
out  of  the  total,  generally  estimated  from  11,000  to  14,000  workers.!/ 
In  any  case  unionism  in  this  Industry  is  badly  split. 

It  is  thoroughly  possible,  despite  the  past  history  of  the  social 
legislation  in  this  country,  that  the  IT.?.. A.  wiUh  its  provisions  for 
hearings  can  avoid  the  due  process  provisions  of  the  Constitution  of  the 
United  States.   It  is  not  impossible  that  a  wage  for  the  first  class 
cutters  in  'Jew  York  City  of  $50.60  per  week  for  a  five-day  week  of  35 
hours  can,  in  the  end,  run  the  gamut  of  the  court  processes.  But  it  is 
not  certain  that  they  will  be  -enforced  short  of  extended  court  pro- 
cedures unless  there  is  developed  in  this  field  a  strong  union  organiza- 
tion. 

It  is  a  sad  fact  to  those  who  advocate  classified' wages ,  accommo- 
dating those^  who  have  the  highest  degress  of  skill,  that  the  Crovernment 
is  less  powerful  than  a,  well-established  trade  union.   In  other  words, 
it  cannot  "pull  a  shop." 

This  point  of  view  simply  recognizes,  whatever  may  be  the  wishes  of 
particular  groups,  that  we  are  still  operating  a  capitalistic  societ3^ 
and  the  N.K.A.  musb  operate  within  the  limits  of  what  is  a  capitalistic 
society.   It  would  seem  doubtful  if  much  more  can  be  done  for  the  time 
for  the  Fur  Industry  than  to  set  bottoms  and  those  bot corns  must  be 
arrived  at  carefully  through  a  consideration  of  how  high  those  bottoms 
can  be  set  and  still  be  achieved. 


1/    A  letter  was  sent  to  both  organizations  asking  each  for  any  evi- 
dence they  wished  to  submj  t  in  sixp^ort  of  their  respective  claims. 
The  President  of  the  Fur  '."'orkers  International  Union  stated  that 
he  would  recommend  a  thorough  investi Ration  inside  the  union;  he 
-  would  open  all  the  union  books  co  the  Commission,  let  them  look  over 
dues,  collections,  unemployment  insurance,  collection,  contracts  with 
employers,  etc.   He  suggested  that  the  rignt  wing  union  send  along 
a  representative  to  point  out  anything  suspicious  or  misleading, 
providing  that  the  left  wing  union  was  allowed  to  do  the  same  thing 
when  the  books  of  the  right  wing  were  examined.  He  -suggested  that 
their  claims  could  be  verified  by  going  to  the  shops,  seeing  the 
shop  chairman,  etc.   The  President  of  the  International  Fur  Workers 
Union  declined  to  give  any  information  except  to  reassert  the  claim 
made  in  the  hearings  that  he  represented  5,000  workers.  He  desired 
to  know  whether  the  letter  which  was  sent  ^oy   the  present  writer 
represented  his  own  actions  as  an  individual  -Derson  or  the  Commission 
as  a  Yidiole.  Secondly,  the  International  Fur  Workers  Union  wanted  to 
know  for  what  the  information  would  be  used.   They  claimed  that  the 
investigation  into  unions  was  oiitside  the  proper  suhere  of  the  Fur 
Commission.   It  is  only  fair  to  say  that  they  did  not  definitely 
refuse  an  investigation  but  apparently  wanted  assurance  with  respect 
to  their  two  questions  before  they  decided. 


1351-C 


-17- 


In  the  absence  of  a  strong' established  and  recognized  unionism, 
one  must  recognize  that  standards  and  enforcement  will  he  separated  to 
the  e::tent  that  scales  deviate  from  going  wages.   If  the  difference  be- 
tween  the  going  wages  and  the  schedules  is  great  enough,  .the  man  who 
defies  the  H.R.A.  win  social  approval,  and  oy  dc3re.es  it  is  first 
opposed,  then,  second  completely  ignored.  The  Code  provisions  is  re- 
gard to  wages  and  hours  constitute  just  so  much  description  upon,  sheets 
of  paper. 

To  those  who  reply  that  this  description  is  the  counsel  of  defeat, 
the  reply  is  that  minimum  wage  for  Industry  should  he  written  as  high 
above  going  wages  as  the  N.H.A.  can  enforce.  The  U.S.A.  should  seek  all 
that  is  possible  at  the  present  moment  of  time  and  moves  forward  as  the 
situation  justifies  it,  to  ask  for  more  next  year  and  even  more  in  the 
years  to  follow.   This  process  is  one  of  ascending,  step  by  step,  rather 
than  throwing  out  the  sandbags  and  mounting  into'  the  stratosphere. 


1351-C 


SUGGESTED  PRO GUAM 


If  the  N.R.A.  desires  to  do  some  tiling  along  these  lines  for  labor 
in  the  Fur  Industry,  the  situation  presents  these  alternatives: 

1.  Reduce  the  labor  provisions  of  the  codes  to 
the  maximum  that  is  administratively  pos- 
sible to  achieve. 

2.  See  that  labor  in  this  Industry  is  given  all 
the  opportunity  to  organize  and  bargain  that 
is  provided  in  Section  7  (a)  and  (b)  of  the 
National  Industrial  Recovery  Act* 

3»  Openly  declare  that  wages  above  the  union  set 
are  to  be  worked  out  by  collective  bargaining. 

4.  Recognize  the  right  of  labor  to  be  represented 
on  any  code  authority  in  this  Industry. 

Public  opinion,  and  by  public  opinion  is  meant  those  attitudes  which 
are  commonly  reflected  in  the  newspapers,  magazines,  and  radio  speeches, 
can  be  depended  upon  to  support  a  minimum  wage.   It  will  not  support  a 
trade  union  contract,  trade  union  relations,  etc.  If  these  are  to  be 
supported  they  will  be  supported  by  the  strength  of  trade  unionism* 

The  experience  of  other  countries  does  not  constitute,  of  course, 
the  final  word  in  guiding  us  in  our  policy  in  the  United  States.  But 
perhaps  it  is  not  unreasonable  to  point  out  here  that  in  neither  New 
Zealand,  Germany  or  Sweden,  or  in  any  other  industrial  country,  have 
steps  been  taken  to  establish  classified  wages.  In  these  cases,  the 
Government  functioned  in  building  up  a  procedure  whereby  unions  could 
be  organized  and  whereby  unions  and  employers  could  get  together  and 
work  out  an  agreement  which  was  recognized  by  the  Government  and  became 
legally  binding  upon  the  parties  thereto.  But  the  State  did  not  primar- 
ily write  the  agreement,  regardless  of  the  parties.  First,  there  was 
a  union. 

Unfortunately,  in  this  country,  despite  the  growing  collective 
nature  of  business  activities,  it  still  remains  true  in  many  industries 
that  there  is  not  first  of  all  a  union  of  any  great  importance  or  any 
considerable  power  and  prestige  among  the  workers  attached  to  the  Indus- 
try. In  the  Fur  Industry,  we  find  two  unions.  Outside  of  New  York 
uiv  -nrism  is  sporadic  and  in  most  areas  non-existent. 

The  union  scale  in  many  cases  has  little  meaning.  Union  officials, 
to  get  collective  contracts,'  in  some  cases  have  made  secret  concessions. 
Employers  have  signed  agreements  that  they  knew  would  not  be  insisted 
upon  in  matters  of  detail.   Contracting  to  avoid  union  scales  is  rampant. 
Individual  agreements  by  workers  to  work  at  less  than  the  scale  by  the 
week,  and  also  to  accept  less  than  time  and  one-half  for  overtime,  is 
admitted  to  exist.  The  typical  business  unit  employs  two  to  four  work- 
ers and  both  the  death  and  birth  rates  of  business  enterprises  are  ex- 
ceedingly high.  Shops  can  fold  up  or  open  up  over  night.  Workers  dis- 

1351-C 


-L  Zi 

charged  and  even  while  working,  solicit  personal  work  to  be  done  by  them- 
selves outside  of  regular  work  hours* 

Adddto  this  picture  of  the  so-called  unionized  part  of  the  Industry, 
the  vest  hinterland  where  organisation  is  practically  non-existent,  and 
add  to  this  the  fact  that  for  the  first  time  an  attempt  is  being  made  to 
control  wholesale  manufacturing  but  the  c as ton  house,  the  department 
store  (alread-  under  a  code)  and  the  specialty  shop.  These  character- 
istics  must  be  calculated  in  accepting  a  complicated  series  of  classified 
wage  schedules  for  these  industries  which,  although  they  are  related  in- 
sofar as  they  deal  with  furs,  have  also  wide  dissimilarities  in  produc- 
tion methods  and  personnel  problems.  Particularly,  despite  the  problems 
that  might  be  raised  there  is  much  merit  in  the  contention  of  the  depart- 
ment stores  that  they  continue  in  all  areas  under  the  Retail  Code.  Also, 
the  custom  can  argue  for  the  same  treatment.  Undoubtedly,  to  grant  such 
requests  means  that  certain  problems  will  continue  to  exist  but  it  is 
also  true  that  in  putting  them  under  terms  similar  to  that  applying  to 
wholesale  manufacturing  certain  problems  will  be  raised. 

In  any  case  it  would  seem  an  act  of  wisdom  to  attempt  to  establish 
only  such  rules  as  represent  not  wishful  thinking,  but  mandates  to  which 
the" U.S.A.  intends,  and  has  the  power  to  compel  obedience. 

Standards  and  enforcements  are  inseparable  problems. 


CONCLUSIONS 

The  writer  of  this  report  agrees  that  if  it  is  the  policy  of  the 
N.R.A.  to  adopt  classified  wage  schedules  for  this  Industry  the  scales 
set  up  constitute  a  thoughtful  attempt  to  meet  the  problems  which  pre- 
sent themselves  in  related  industries  of  manufacturing,  custom  building 
and  the  retailing  of  furs.  They  attempt  to  deal  with  the  obvious  short- 
comings of  the  existing  codal  rates  of  the  wholesale  manufacturing  in- 
dustry. They  suggest  a  classification  of  workers  and  of  areas  which 
attempt  to  take  into  account  the  peculiarities  of  custom  building,  re- 
pairing, and  remodeling  activities  of  the  custom  houses,  the  specialty 
shops  and  the  department  stores  as  completely  as  they  can  be  accommodated 
by  a  scheme  of  classification  which  groups  these  industries  as  one. 

however,  for  the  reasons  set  forth  above,  the  writer  doubts  the 
wisdom  of  attempting  to  apply  classified  wage  schedules  in  the  Sur  In- 
dustry. 


1351-C 


APPE  II  DICES 


1351-D 


-1-    . 
■Apparoix.i  ■ 

Fin  .MAiiUFACTtnaX 

Order 

CODE  OF  FAIR  COMPETI TIOiI  FOP,  IftlE  FUR  MAlIUFACTJRIIICr  INDUSTRY 

Appointing  Special  Commission  as  provided  in  Section  7  of  Article 
IV,  and  otherwise,  of  said  Code  of  Fair  Competition,  and  vesting  said 
Commission  with  certain  additional  powers  and  duties. 

A  Code  of  Fair  Competition  for  the  Fur  Manufacturing  Industry  hav- 
ing been  heretofore  approved  on- May  IS,  19o4,  and  it  "being  provided  in 
Section  7  of  Article  IV  of  said  Code,  in  part,  as  follows: 

ii  *  &  *  the  Administrator  shall  appoint  a  Special  Commission  which 
shall  undertake  a  study  and  investigation  of  the  various  markets  and 
areas  of  the  Industry  and  shall,  if  necessary,  conduct  hearings  in  such 
various  markets  and  areas  for  the  purpose  of  determining  the  extent  to 
which  (the  provisions  of  this  Article,  and  in  particular,  the  extent  to) 
which  the  differentials  herein  established,  tend  to  promote  conditions 
of  fair  competition  between  the  various  markets  and  areas  of  the  Indus- 
try.  Said  Special  Commission  on  the  basis  of  such  study  and  investiga- 
tion shall  have  power  to  recommend  to  the  Administrator  any  modification 
of  the  provisions  of  this  Article  which  it  may  deem  necessary  to  promote 
conditions  of  fair  competition,  including  recommendations  for  the  modi- 
fication of  the  definitions  of  the  respective  areas,  recommendations 
for  the  creation  of  new  arer.s,  and  recommendations  for  a  modification, 
change,  increase  or  decrease  of  the  differentials  between  the  respective 
areas.   Said  Special  Commission  shall  report  to  the  Administrator  with 
its  recommendations,  as  hereinabove  set  forth,  on  or  before  July  1, 
1934,  and  any  and  all  of  such  recommendations  upon  approval  of  the  Ad- 
ministrator shall  become  effective  as  part  of  this  Code. 

"Said  Special  Commission  shall  also  have  such  other  and  further 
duties  and  be  vested  with  such  other  and  further  powers  as  the  Adminis- 
trator may  from  time  to  time  delegate  to  it,  and  any  such  further  recom- 
mendations, upon  the  approval  of  the  Administrator,  shall  also  become 
effective  as  part  of  this  Code."  And 

Administrative  Order  No.  436-3,  dated  July  3,  1934,  having  extended 
the  date  on  which  said  Special  Commission  may  report  with  its  recommen- 
dations from  July  1,  1934,  to  September  1,  1934;  and 

It  appearing  that  said  Special  Comrdssion,  in  addition  to  the 
powers  and  duties  specifically  conferred  upon  it  by  said  Section  7  of 
Article  IV  and  by  the  other  provisions  of  said  Code  of  Fair  Competition 
may  also  be  convenient^/  vested  with  the  power  and  duty  of  investigating 
the  labor  conditions  in  the  related  industry  engaged  in  the  manufacture 
of  fur  articles  on  a  custom  basis  and  in  the  repairing  and  remodeling 
of  fur  articles  directly  to  the  consumer; 


1351-D 


-2- 

HOW,  THEREFORE,  pursuant  to  authority  vested  in  me  "by  Executive 
Orders  of  the  President,  and  by  the  Code  of  Pail'  Comoetition  for  the 
Fur  Manufacturing  Industry,  I,  Hugh  S.  Johnson,  -Administrator  for  Indus- 
trial Recovery,  do  hereby  appoint  as  members  of  Said  Special  Commission 
the  following  persons: 

Dr.  Paul  Abel son,  Chairman 
Dr.  E.  L.  Frain 
Dr.  Willard  Atkins 

and 

ORDER  that  said  Special  Commission  shall,  in  addition  to  its  other 
powers  and  duties,  be  vested  with  the  fttrther  -tower  and  duty  of  inves- 
tigating the  labor  conditions  in  the  related  industry  engaged  in  the 
manufacture  of  fur  articles  on  a  custom  basis  and  in  the  remodeling  and 
repairing  of  fur  articles  directly  to  the  consumer;  and  I  do  further 

ORDER  that  said  Special  Commission  shall  report  to  the  Administra- 
tor with  its  recommendations  on  or  before  September  1,  1934.* 

The  provisions  of  this  Order  may  be  modified  or  revoked  at  any  time 
hereafter. 


Hugh  S .  Johnson 

Administrator  for  Industrial  Recovery 


Approval  Recommended: 
William  P.  Farnsworth 
Acting  Division  Administrator 


August  7,  1934 


*  This  date  has  been  extended. 


1351-D 


«.  1  fc 


S3CTI01I_A 

s^is^^J^^1-^ 
I.    siZE_giim-^^ 


t   to  approximately  10,000  indi- 

U».     **e  ^Sf  iSSJHnd  interested  P*f/f '^  and  speci- 

but  after  consulting  iniora  llisluneilts  and  ox   deparo       ,      the  flhole- 

sentatives  of   custom-retail  es^aox  ^^  compiled   V 

aSy   stores,    it  was  decided  ^       t         It  was  deemed  pro^le^ 
fa/e  Par  Manufac^ring     o^t.orx  ^  ^ ^ «*^  , 

the  original  compiling  o x  to  be  doing,    ^.^  *d  inciude  names  of 

establishments  ^^^iSicated  that   the  £f  f  Vetail  estaolish- 
plies  to   the  qaesti onnaire s  isbments   out  strictly 

not  only  fur  manufacturing 

ments  also.  Yorlc  city   sep- 

m  v.      t    .hows  for  most  of  the  States,    ana  xor  ^  returned 

Table  I    shows  lor  tionnaires  mailed,    ^  whether  in 

arately,    the  number  ox   (1)    ge  (4)  usatle..    replies     w  nded 

unclaimed,    (  3)  unusaM e  *  ^pi i      >  ^  country  «  a  wt^^ 

whole  or  in  part       It  is  ^?onnaire  than  did  ,  ew  York  Ci^^   aside 
relatively    Detter  to   the  qu  evident   that   tne   Des 

r^^O^-from  California.  ^ 

2,145   craft  workers.      Bie  ^f*'^  of  the  former  and  1,015  o± 
dlvide  between  ^S«S^»  °*  male  wooers  was  -ch^ rger^  ^ 

latter.      ^7eve;  ^e  rest  of  the   country.      Outside  the  city. 

York  City  than  in  the  re,  4Q  per  ce,lt  outsiae 

per   cent  were  male  as  agam^  ^ 

,.a&e~    »■"&  qR        q,.-^   0£    tne  Ojj-i'j  n„nivds  ot   nouiij 

volume  *  ***»».    *»'of  ^nem  were  usaole  i»J^e*£f  finings.      Tahle 
tion  relating  to   1,933  o  ^  of  full-time  w  el  ly  a>    ^y 

earnings  and  1,953  in  *  tPgs  0f  firms  and  ol    cr<* 

II   gives  the  ^^Xcftyrc  -red  hy  usaole  replies. 

States  and  in  New  York  City,  ^  ^^ 

TMs  is  showajy  Tahle  III.J^  ^^  cent  nailers,    ^ 

per  cent,  oper ator-j^  ^      d  „       er,i  Wor*e rs«  are  ^  fy  clasS 

^giirar^erar;  aS-lly  finishers. 


■^  71R1-S 


~  2  - 


More  of   the  workers   covered  "by   the  replies  are  outside  New  York 
City   than  are  inside.      About   two-thirds  are  outside   the  City.      Within 
the  individual   crafts  the  proportions  vary,    hut  only  in  operating  and 
nailing  is  the  proportion  of  workers  greater  in  New  York  City  than  out- 
side.     This  is   shown  by  Table  IV. 


1351-E 


-or 


TABLE  t 


-  ...BEE  OE  QUESTIONNAIRES  MAILED,  UNCLAIMED  RETURNS 
UNUSABLE  1/  Aim  USABLE  HEPLIES  2/ 


T/uestion- 

& 

Lestion- 

Unusable 

U suatle 

L  re  s 

ii' 

lires 

Replies 

Repli  es 

Mailed 

?.- 

j turned 

Unclaimed 

New  York  City 

4,498 

136 

35 

142 

Pennsylvania 

625 

32 

69 

28 

Illinois 

615 

23 

43 

16 

California 

453 

12 

38 

60 

IT.Y.    (excl.   N.Y.C.) 

320 

17 

43 

21 

Ohio 

292 

12 

54 

17 

Massachusetts 

233 

11 

19 

20 

Michigan 

255 

15 

26 

7 

New  Jersey 

201 

21 

9 

11 

ffi  sconsin 

186 

4 

23 

19 

Texas 

165 

2 

26 

2 

Connecticut 

147 

4 

12 

5 

Missouri 

140 

14 

22 

3 

Mi  nne  so  ta 

108 

3 

15 

13 

Maryland 

84 

2 

13 

8 

Washington 

75 

2 

14 

7 

Colorado 

54 

3 

8 

4 

Iowa 

.     52     • 

3 

4 

6 

Nebraska 

44 

2 

9 

3 

Other  States: 

(4)        75  -  100 

(10)        50  ~     74 

(15)        25  -     49 

(   2)        24  or  less 

Total 

1,258 

TO 

204 

18 

TOTAL 

9,861 

400 

735 

410 

1/  Among  unusable  questionnaires  were  those  in  which  it  was  claimed 
no  Eur  Manufacturing  was  done . 

2/  Usable,  in  whole  or  in  part. 


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-  5  - 

TABLE     III 

NUMBER  AND  PERCENTAGE  OF  CRAFT 
70EKERS  COVERED  3Y  QDSSTIONNAIEE  REPLIES 


Craft  Number 


Cut tor  355 

Operator  42^6 

Nailer  198 

Finisher  355 

General  159 


Percentage 

18. 

,4 

21. 

.5 

10. 

,0 

43. 

.1 

7, 

,0 

Total  1,933  100.0 


TABLE     IV 

NUMBER  All  PERCENTAGE  OE  WORKERS 

COVERED   BE  QUESTIONNAIRE  REPLIES  III  AND 

OUTSIEE  NEW  YORE   CITY,    BY   CRAFTS 


Crafts 


Cutter 

Operator 
Nailer 
Finisher 
General 


Total 


l~x  niber 

Percentage 

New  York 

Outside 

New  York 

Outside 

City 

New  York 

To  tal 

City 

New  York 

Total 

City 

Ci  i'/ 

122 

243 

365 

33.4 

66.6 

100.0 

238 

188 

426 

55.3 

44.1 

100.0 

112 

85 

198 

56.6 

43.4 

100.0 

199 

S5J: 

855 

23.3 

76.7 

100.00 

r\rr 
</0 

116 

139 

16.5 

83.5 

100.0 

694 

1,289 

1,983 

35.0 

65.0 

100.0 

1351-B 


-6- 


II.  STAGES 

Many  or  few  generalizations  may  "be  drawn  from  the  wage  data,  de- 
pending upon  the  extent  to  which  the  material  is  deemed  representative. 
For  the  present  purpose  it  is  sufficient  to  draw  attention  to  a  few  major 
points. 

First,  hourly  earnings  in  this  Industry  are  higher  on  the  basis  of 
the  Commission,  than  of  the  Census,  data. 

Second,  hourly  and  weekly  earnings  during  the  season  are  consider- 
ably lower  outside  Hew  York  City  than  in  Hew  York  City. 

Third,  cutters  tend  to  be  the  highest  and  finishers  the  lowest 
paid,  with  operators  tending  to  fall  next  to  cutters,  and  nailers  just 
above  or  on  a  par  with  finishers. 

Fourth,  a  minimum  rate  of  40  cents  an  hour,  as  provided  in  many 
codes,  would  raise  apparently  between  10  per  cent  and  20  per  cent  of  the 
workers  outside  Hew  York  City,  and  less  than  10  per  cent  in  Hew  York  City, 
although  as  between  crafts  the  proportions  vary. 

Hourly  earnings  for  craft  working  during  the  week  of  September  24- 
29,  1934  averaged  87  cents  with  50  per  cent  of  the  workers  getting  80 
cents  or  less.  On  the  basis  of  the  Census  data  for  a  representative  week 
in  October,  1929,  1932  and  1933,  the  average  hourly  earnings  were  69  cents, 
49  cents,  and  54  cents,  respectively. 

Weekly  earnings  on  a  full-time  basis  in  September,  1934,  averages 

$32.56  with  50  per  cent  of  the  workers  getting  $31.78  or  less.  Census 

averages  for  the  years  1929,  1932  and  1933  were  $32.60,  $23.23,  and 

$22.95,  respectively.   These  and  similar  figures  for  individual  crafts 
are  given  in  Table  V. 

Hot  only  are  the  average  earnings  higher  but  the  general  level  of 
hourly  earnings -is  higher,  on  the  basis  of  the  Commission's  data  than  is 
shown  by  the  Census  data  for  a  representative  week  in  October,  1932.  The 
basis  for  this  generalization  is  given  in  Table  VI,  and  Chart  I,  by  a  cum- 
ulative percentage  distribution  of  hourly  earnings  on  a  "less  than"  basis. 

A  further  analysis  of  Census  Data,  as  shown  by  Tables  VIII-A  and 
VTII-T3  indicates  that  the  general  level  of  earnings  in  the  retail  branch 
of   the  industry  is  lower  than  in  the  wholesale. 

At  least  three  differences  may  be  noted  in  the  circumstances  sur- 
rounding the  collection  of  these  two  sets  of  data.  While  the  Commission's 
data  cover  a  specific  week  in  September,  1934,  the  Census  data  cover  a 
representative  week  in  three  of  the  four  immediately  preceding  years — 
1929,  1932  and  1933.  Second,  the  Census  years  are  pre-code  years;  Third, 
while  both  sets  of  data,  cover  retail  or  custom  and  wholesale  establish- 
ments, the  Census  data  are  influenced  more  by  retail  establishments  than 
are  the  Commission's  data.  With  a  total  of  183  establishments  and  1,005 
workers,  150  establishments  and  792  workers  are  classed  under  the  Retail 
Trade  as  shown  by  Table  VII. 


1351-E 


-6-1- 


WLE  V 
WtMlfcW  OF  CENTRAL  TtNOtNCf    AMD  D\5Pt^5\ON 

AVERAGE   HOURLY     AND    FULL-TWE   WEEKLY    EMMNG5    \N   NM)  OUT51DE   NEW  YORK 
C\TY     SY    CEAFT5   A!)   5UOVN  W    REPL\E!>    10    COMMl^OK-5     QUjgT\OHNA\RL 
AND  F0£    AVERAGE    HOURLY    AND    ACTUAL    \JEEKLX    E^N\UGS    OF    ALL 
FUR  FACTORY  \JORKER.b    AS   SHOUN   BN  CENSU5  DATA 

Questionnaire,      Replies01 

Census 

Cutler* 

Operators 

Nosers 

Finishers 

General 

Combined 

AW   fur  FacAoru 
Workers 

taw 

Out 

New 
Yo.k 

Out 

■taw 

y»<* 

Out 
•side 

New 

Out 
s.Je 

fit* 

Y.«v> 

l_.»- 

Out 

We  w 
Yo'K 

Oott>>< 

Total 

iqss 

Wit 

«M 

Number     o$ 

112. 

MJ 

238 

tee 

M2 

84 

t<J<J 

456 

« 

\I6 

694 

U89 

1383 

no 

lOi 

918 

Averaqe     Hour\u      Earnings     tin  eeMa) 

Averoae  ^3^ 
(Arithmetic") 

154 

104 

1*4 

M 

lift 

46 

lit 

55 

lOS 

45 

1  23 

48 

8T* 

54 

4* 

41 

nedtan 

145 

l»4 

\10 

42, 

114 

bX 

no 

50 

114 

49 

1X0 

sr 

80 

- 

- 

— 

(5) 

Mode 

»45 

109 

129 

65 

IIJS 

65 

115 

45 

125 

35 

113 

45 

45-115 

- 

— 

— 

Roncje  u) 
(Eot»r«) 

44-ne 

41-2  a 

69-200 

14-137 

86    1ft 

30  115 

34  200 

26-210 

41  115 

2S-2I0 

34-213 

29XI* 

X9-2I* 

— 

- 

- 

[Central  SO 7.) 

1*0-1*5 

4o   H' 

ie»-t45 

40-MO 

MJ-iM 

40-5* 

88  i27 

3T-T5 

80-130 

31  WO 

I00-JS4. 

St-JOS 

40- Kl 

- 

- 

— 

Av 

eraqe 

V/eeUu,     Eaminajs  (>n  dc 
u\l     Time- 

hilars) 

F 

Actual   Time 

Averaqe  {,i 
(Arithmetic) 



43.70 

2S.85 

32.96 

22.93 

23.25 

3244 

Median 

42.28 

25  33 

31.  T8 

— 

— 

— 

13  ) 

hodt 

42.50 

11.50 

•n4 

— 

— 

— 

Ranqe     <« 

(Ent.re) 

i*.ee- 
1  ST.  oo 

10-00- 
ltt-00 

ie.ee- 

1  IT  00 

- 

— 

— 

(Central    807.) 

13.00- 

52.00 

14.00- 

4O-00 

I4.O0- 

Se.oo 

— 

— 

— 

(Foot  no* 
1051-1 

es   on   $o\io*/mq  oaqe) 

SpeooA  Fur    Comm'»»»on 
Oviston  eft   Research  «4  rlonnina, 

-  7  u 

2AJBLE  V  (Continued) 
(Footnotes) . 


1.  Establishments  were  requested  to  report  wage  data  for  week 
of  September  24-29,  1934. 

2.  Confidential  Report  of  the  Bureau  of  the  Census  and  the 
national  Recovery  Administration:  Far  Manufacturing  In- 
dustry, March  2,  1954.  Data  cover  a  representative  week  in 
October  of  1929,  1952," and  1933. 

3.  Averages  of  Census  data  computed  from  number  of  workers, 
total  men-hours  and  total  weekly  earnings. 

Fur  Commission's  questionnaire  requested  that  overtime 
hours  and  wages  be  reported  separately.  Omitting  over- 
time, an  average  hourly  earning  or  rate  was  computed  for 
each  worker.  From  a  frequency  distribution  of  these  aver- 
ages, was  computed  the  composite  averages  in  this  Table. 
Hence  they  are  weighted  averages  of  averages.  Full-time 
weekly  earnings  for  individual  workers  was  obtained  by 
multiplying  the  average  hourly  earnings  by  the  regular  time 
of  the  establishment.  Outside  New  York  City  regular  and 
actual  time  correspond  quite  closely,  while  in  New  York 
City  there  was  considerable  short  time,  probably  accounted 
for  in  part  by  a  minor  Jewish  holiday  during  the  week 
covered. 

4.  Median  hourly  and  weekly  earnings  computed  from  original 
data  in  1  cent  and  $5.00  intervals,  respectively. 

5.  Modal  hourly  and  weekly  earnings  are  mid-points  of  10  cents 
and  $5.00  intervals,  respectively. 

6.  Entire  range  of  hourly  and  weekly  earnings  taken  from  origi- 
nal data  with  1  cent  and  $1.00  intervals. 

7.  Range  for  central  80  per  cent  cf  cases  taken  from  original 
data  with  1  cent  and  $1.00  intervals. 


1351-E 


-8- 

There  is  a  very  pronounced  and  persistent  tendency  for  earnings 
to  be  considerably  lower  outside  New  York  City  than  in  it.  The  average 
hourly  earning  in  New  York  City,  as  shown  by  Table  V,  is  $1.-23,-  as  again- 
st $.68  outside;  the  predominating  earning  in  New  York  City  of  $1.15,  as 
against  $.45  outside,  and  50  per  cent  of  the  workers  in  New  York  City  re- 
ceive $1.20  or  less  while  the  same  proportion  outside  receive  $.57  or 
less. 

This  tendency  is  further  suggested  by  the  Census  data  for  1929, 
1932  and  1933.  Average  hourly  earnings  based  on  these  date  have  been 
computed  and  are  shown  in  Table  VIII.  There  it  appears,  for  example, 
that  in  the  Eastern  States,  which  of  course  include  New  York  City,  the 
average  hourly  earnings  of  all  factory  workers  in  1933  were  $.78  and  the 
next  highest  was  $.63  in  the  Western  States;  Midwestern  States  averages 
$.54  and  Southern  States,  $.47. 

With  individual  crafts  the  tendency  continues  as  shown  by  Table  V. 
For  example,  cutters  in  New  York  City  had  an  average  of  $1.54  as  against 
$1.04  outside;   operators  $1.24  as  against  $.63;  nailers  $1.18  and  $.66; 
finishers  $1.12  and  $.55. 

It  will  also  be  noticed  that  in  the  four  major  crafts  the  average, 
median' and  modal,  fall  within  a  range  of  from  $.02  to  $.10.  Cutters  in 
New  York  City  have  an  average  of  $1.54,  a  median  of  $1.45  and  a  mode  of 
$1.45  —  the  maximum  difference  being  $.09,  while  outside  New  York  City 
the  respective  figures  are  $1.04,  $1,14  and  $1.05  —  a  maximum  difference 
of  $.10.  For  operators  in  New  York  City  the  corresponding  figures  are 
$1.24,  $1.20  and  $1.20,  while  outside  they  are  $.68,  $.62  and  $.65.  For 
nailers,  $1.15,  $1.14  and  $1.15  in  New  York  City  and  $.66,  $.62  and  $.65 
outside.  -For  finishers,  $1.12,  $1.10  and  $1.15  in  New  York  City  and 
$.55,  $.50  and  $.45  outside. 

In  view  of  the  pressure  of  time  and  the  necessity  for  hand  analy- 
sis of  questionnaires  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  omit  a  similar  analysis 
of  weekly  earnings.  Moreover,  the  significance  of  full-time  weekly  earn- 
ings is  rather  doubtful  unless  full  account  can  be  taken  of  the  differ- 
ences in  regular  or  customary  working  time,  and  the  total  number  of  cases 
so  available  was  too  meager  to  give  significant  results. 

Not  only  do  the  several  measures  of  -central  tendency  suggest  sub- 
stantially different  wage  level  in  and  ou.tside  New  York  City,  but  an 
examination  of  the  distribution  of  earnings  confirms  the  observation. 

An  analysis  of  the  distribution  of  rates  discloses  first  that  the 
lowest  and  highest  paid  workers  outside  New  York  City  get  less  than  their 
corresponding  groups  in  New  York  City.  Outside  rates  go  lower  and  do  not 
rise  as  high  as  in  New  York  City.  Table  V  gives  the  entire  rate  of  aver- 
age hourly  earnings  by  crafts,  and  also  the  range  for  the  central  of  80 
per  cent  of  the  workers.  If,  for  example,  the  lowest  paid  10  per  cent 
and  the  highest  paid  10  per  cent  of  the  cutters  are  excluded,  it  appears 
that  in  New  York  City  the  central  80  per  cent  receive  average  hourly 
earnings  running  from  $1.20  to  $1.95  while  outside  the  earnings  run  from 


1351-E 


-9- 


$.60  to  $1.47.  In  New  York  City  operators  range  from  $1.00  to  $1.43  and 
outside  from  $.40  to  $1.00;-  nailers  from  $1.13  to  $1.34  in  New  York  City 
and  from  $.40  to  $.92  outside;   finishers  go  from  $.83  to  $1.27  in  New 
York  City  and  from  $.37  to  $.75  outside. 

Furthermore,  the  entire  level  of  hourly  earnings  is  lower  outside 
than  in  Hew  York  City.  ;lhis  is  sho'vn  by  Charts  il  and  III.   Chart  I  gives 
the  non-cumulative  percentage  distxitution  and  Chart  II  the  cumulative 
percentage  distribution,  on  a  "less  than"  basis,  of  average  hourly  earn- 
ings by  crafts  and  for  the  crafts  combined.  Tables  IX-A,  IX-B  and  IX-C 
give,  in  10  cent  intervals  the  number,  no n- cumulative  percentage  and  the 
cumulative  percentage  distribution  respectively,  of  average  hourly  earn- 
ings while  Tables  X-A,  X-B  and  X-C  give  similar  information  in  15  cent 
intervals. 

On  the  basis  of  Census  data  for  the  retail  or  custom  wholesale 
branches  of  manufacturing,  the  general  level  is  lower  in  the  retail  than 
in  the  wholesale  branch.  This  is  shown  by  Table  XI,  which  gives  the 
distribution  of  average  hourly  earnings  in  the  retail  branch  by  major 
sections  of  the  country,  and  by  cities  in  the  wholesale  branch. 

In  forming  codal  provisions  with  respect  to  wages  it  is  likely  to 
be  helpful  to  know  the  earnings  of  different  proportions  of  the  workers 
in  a  group.  Table  XII  gives  the  decile  distribution  of  average  hourly 
earnings.  According  to  this  Table  the  lowest  paid  10  per  cent  of  the 
cutters  in  Hew  York  City  received  $1.14  or  less;  the  lowest  20  per  cent 
received  $1.28  or  less;  the  lowest  30  per  cent  received  $1.43  or  less, 
and  so  on.  Outside  Hew  York  City  the  lowest  10  per  cent  had  averages 
of  $.60  or  less,  the  lowest  20  per  cent  had  $.87  or  less  and  the  lowest 
30  per  cent  had  $1.00  or  less. 

Before  passing  to  a  consideration  of  weekly  and  yearly  earnings 
a  passing  observation  may  be  mode  with  respect  to  finishers.  The  gen- 
eral average  for  these  workers  was  SG  cents,  with  $1.12  in  New  York 
City  and  55  cents  outside.  Further  analysis  indicates  that  female 
workers  are  relatively  more  numerous  outside  than  in  New  York  City  and 
92  per  cent  outside.  Table  XIII  shows  the  distinctly  large  difference 
in  the  wage  level  of  these  workers  in  and  outside  New  York  City.  In 
the  city  the  predominating  hourly  earning  is  $1.15  as  compared  with 
45  cents  outside,  or  about  40  per  cent  less.  Viewed  a  little  different- 
ly, virtually  all  (99.5  per  cent)  of  those  outside  received  less  than 
$1.00  an  hour  while  only  40  per  cent  of  those  in  the  city  received  less 
than  this. 

Kith  weekly  earnings  the  tendency  is  the  same  as  with  hourly 
earnings,  despite  variations  in  the  hours  worked  per  week.  Table  XIV 
shows  that  whereas  57  per  cent  of  the  workers  outside  New  York  City  re- 
ceived less  than  $25.00,  only  2  per  cent  in  the  city  received  less  than 
this.  Furthermore,  while  95  per  cent  of  those  outside  received  less 
than  $40.00  this  was  the  case  with  only  55  per  cent  in  the  city.  Chart 
IV  shows  this  situation  graphically  by  giving  the  cumulative  percentage 
distributions  of  full-time  weekly  earnings. 


1351-E 


-10- 


The  Commission  made  no  attempt  to  collect  information  as  to  year- 
ly earnings.  The  only,  available  material  appears  to  be  that  of  the 
Census  covering  the  retail  and  wholesale  trade  for  the  years  from  1923  • 
to  1933»  Averages  have  been  computed  from  these  data  and  are  shown  in 
Table  XV.  It  appears  that  in  retail  establishments  doing  manufacturing 
work  the  yearly  averages  in  1533  run  from  $292  to  $1,144  while  in  whole- 
sale establishments  the  earnings  run  from  $277  to  $2,102.  Viewing 
these  earnings  for  all  the  years  there  is  a  distinct  tendency  for  the 
wholesale  earnings  to  be  higher  than  retail  earnings.  For  example  there 
is  not  a  single  instance  of  retail  earnings  averaging  $2,000,  while 
there  are  four  such  instances  in  the  wholesale  trade. 


1351-E 


-  11  - 

TABLE  VI 

.„   «n    vwdapt?  -p-oirRT.Y  Rk^ES  FOE  FACTORY 
DISTRIBUTION   OF  ™AG3  ROURL1  *U--£ 

rss£^»*^^^*%ir oou- 

UISSIOH  DATA,  1BSE  C7  SEPMSB  24.-29,   W^- 


PER     CEET 

NUMBER 

"^or— Cor.tu.lo. 

uiVG 

Cumulat 

Lve 

(less 

than  Taasisj 

Census       ' 

Commission 

Census  Commission 

Census 

Cor. 

mission 

Under  20<* 

47 

- 

4.7 

- 

4.7 

•Ml 

20-29.9 

101 

14 

10.0 

.7 

14.7 

.7 

30-39.9 

164 

131 

16.3 

6.6 

31.0 

7.3 

40-49.9 

153 

292 

15.2 

14.7 

46.2 

22.0 

50-59.9 

118 

222 

11.7 

11.2 

57.9 

33.2 

60-69.9 

53 

169 

5.3 

8.5 

63.2 

41.7 

70-79.9 

57 

165 

5.7 

8.3 

68.9 

50.0 

80-89.9 

40 

100 

4.0 

5.0 

72.9 

55.0 

90-99.9 

59 

51 

5.9 

78.3 

57.6 

100  and  over 

213 

839 

21.2 

42.4 

100.0 

100.  c 

TOTAL 

1005 

1,933 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

Source:      Confidential  Report  for  tho 
Bureau  of  the  Census  and  the  National 
Recovery  Administration,  March  2,   19,54. 


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-  13  - 

TABLE  VIII 

AVERAGE  HOURLY  ALL  WEEKLY  SARlrIUGS  FOR  MALE,    FEMALE 
4HD  TO^AL  FACTORY  WORKERS  U  RETAIL  FOR  TRADE  3Y  MA- 
JOR SECTIONS  OF  TILJ  COLUTRY,    1929,    1932, «  and  1533. 


Ho .  of 
Estab 

— 



Avera£< 

i   Hour] 

y_  Earnings 
1 

tal    M 
.74   .97 

I'1 

3  3 

Tc 

.63 

States 

1 

M 

9 

2   9 

To 

tal 

1 

M 

9  3  2 

F   Tc 

tal 

Eastern 

53 

$ 

1.20 

.73 

.94 

.93 

.58 

.78 

Mid-West 

57 

.91 

.59 

.73 

.64 

.39 

.50 

.71 

.43 

.54 

Western 

15 

.52 

.73 

.70 

.50 

.60 

.60 

.67 

.bij 

.63 

Southern 

11 

.76 

.33 

.45 

.52 

.25 

.33 

.69 

.3b 

.47 

Combined 

136 

.93 

.62 

.77 

.72 

.45 

.56 

.SO 

.49 

.ol 

Average  Weekly  Earnings 


Eastern  53 

Mid-West  57 

Western  15 

Southern  11 

Combined  136 


$53.45   31.19  41.11   39.77  25.25   31.83  36.74  23.46  29.56 

46.28   25.93  33.82  30.89  18.53  23.59  30.77  18.23  22.92 

29.09   33.11   32.05  26.00  27.85  27.43  26.54  25.16   25.47 

41.65  17.67   24.27   27.18  12.90  17.09  25.59   15.51  18.76 

47.70  27.62   35.41   33.64  20.83  25.95  32.63  20.11  24.92 


Huraber  of  Workers 


Eastern 

53 

134 

167 

301 

101 

j —  -^ 

223 

113 

133 

245 

Mid-West 

57 

183 

289 

472 

152 

219 

371 

153 

255 

409 

Western 

15 

22 

61 

83 

12 

41 

53 

13 

44 

57 

Southern 

11 

17 

45 

52 

17 

41 

53 

17 

41 

53 

Combined 

135 

355 

552 

918 

282 

423 

705 

295 

474 

770 

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•  -  20  -  •  • 

TABLE  XI-A 

DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  EOR  FACTORY  WORKERS  IN 
THE .RETAIL  AND  WHOLESALE  EUR  TRADE  BY  SPECIE IED  STATES 
CITIES  FOR  A  REPRESENTATIVE  WEEK  IN  OCTOBER,  1932. 


NUMBER  OE 

FACTORY  WORKERS 

RETAIL     TRADE 

WHOLESALE 

TRADE 

Average 
Hourly 
Rate 
(in  cents) 

co 

a 

.  CD- 
-p 
co 

-p 
co 
CD 

"T  '. 

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to 

CD 

u 

CD 
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o 
en 

Co 

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Eh 

M 
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o 

>> 

.  CD 

I.Iinneapoli 
St .   Paul 

• 

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to 

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r-K 

cti 

o 

EH 

Under  20(* 

- 

13 

21 

13 

47 

20-29.9 

16 

57 

5 

18 

96 

5 

:    5 

30-39.9 

40 

91- 

-11 

21 

163 

1 

- 

1 

40-49.9 

49 

79 

14 

2 

144 

8 

1 

9 

50-59.9 

24 

69 

8 

2 

103 

2 

7 

6 

15 

60-69.9 

16 

25 

4 

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45 

- 

1 

7 

8 

70-79.9 

16 

24 

1 

4 

45 

9 

3 

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L2 

80-89.9 

14 

13 

2 

2 

31 

9 

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9 

90-99.9 

24 

10 

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1 

35 

24 

- 

- 

24 

100  and  over ' 

•52 

•26     ■ 

■    '3  • 

2 

•    83 

130 

- 

- 

130 

TOTAL 

251 

407 

69 

65 

792 

174 

20 

19 

213 

No.   of 

Establish-  , 

62 

67 

13 

13 

160 

16 

3 

4 

23 

ments 

Source:   Confidential  Report  for 
the  Bureau  of  the  Census  and  the 
National  Recovery  Administration, 
March  2,  1934. 


1351-E 


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-22- 
TABLE  XII 


PERCENTAGE  OF  CRAFT  T"'0RKSRS  RECEIVING  SPECIFIED 
AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  OR  LESS. 


per  Cent  Cutter   Operator   Mailer   Finisher   General    Total 
Of  Total 

Workers.  NYC  Oat-  NYC  Out-  FTC  Out-  NYC  Out-  NYC  Out-  NYC  Out- 
side side side side side side 

Lor/cst  10$  ,A,14  .60  1.00  .40  1.00  .40   .87  .37   .43  .30  1.00  .37 

11    20$  1.28  .07  1.06  .43  1.03   .47  1.00  .40  .86   .35  1.06  .42 

"    30$  1.43  1.00  1.14  .53  1.14  .55  1.05  .45   .69   .37  1.10  .46 

40$  1.43  1.05  1.19  .60  1.14  .57  1.10  .46  1.00  .41  1.14  .51 

50$  1.45  1.14  1.20  .62  1.14  .62  1.10  .50  1.14  .49  1.20  .57 

60$  1.51  1.28  1.20  .67  1.14  .67  1.10  .53  1.25   .57  1.20  .65 

70$  1.57  1.43  1.28  .75  1.20  .71  1.14  .60  1.26   .67  1.28   .75 

80$  1.71  1.49  1.34  .32  1.28  ..79  1.20  .67  1.2C   .87  1.43  .87 

90$  1.85  1.62  1.43  1.00  1.34   .03  1.27  .75  1.28  1.00  1.56  1.04 


Total  No. 

of  workers   122  243  233   188  112   86  190   656   23  116  694  1289 


1351-E 


-23- 

IABLE  XIII 
DISTRIBUTION  OF  AVERAGE  HOURLY  RATES  FOR 
FEMALE  FINISHERS   IN  AND   OUTSIDE  FEW  YORK  CITY, 
SEFT1.13ZR     ::•:-:.  :9,   1934. 


^Percentages 

Average 
Hourly 
Rate 

N.Y. 
City 

Number 

-    Out- 
side 

Hon— Oumul atiye 
*            - 

N.Y.            Out- 
City            side 

Cumulative 

(less  than! 

(in  cents) 

N.Y. 
City 

Out- 
Side 

Under   20^ 

2 

•  3 

.3 

20-29.9 

17 

■•j 

2,8 

3,1 

30-39 , 9 

1 

35 

1.1 

14.2 

1.1 

17.3 

40-49.9 

169 

t:8  ,2 

1.1 

45.5 

50-59,9 

1 

139 

1*1 

23.2 

2,2 

68.7 

60-69.9 

1 

78 

1.1 

13.0 

3.3 

81.7 

70-79.9 

3 

77 

3.2 

12.8 

6.5 

94,5 

80-89.9 

13 

24 

13.6 

4.0 

83,1 

99.5 

90-99.9 

4 

4 

4.2 

.7 

24.3 

99.2 

100-109.9 

15 

5 

15.7 

.8 

40.0 

100.0 

110-119.9 

45 

45.2 

85.2 

120-129.9 

12 

13.6 

97.8 

130  and  over  2 

2.2 

100.0 

TOTAL 

95 

600 

100.0 

loo.o 

1351-8 


-   24  - 

TABLE  XIV 

DISTRIBUTION  OP  FULL  TIME  WEEKLY  WAGES  FOR  CRAFT  WORKERS  III 
FUR  MANUFACTURING  INDUSTRY,    SEPTEMBER  24-29,    1934. 


Weekly 

Wage  s 

(in  dollars) 


$10.00-14.99 
15.00-19.99 
20.00-24.99 
25.00-29.99 
30.00-34.99 
35.00-39.99 
40.00-44.99 
45.00-49.99 
50.00-54.99 
55.00-59.99 
60.00-64.99 
65.00-69.99 
70.00-74.99 
75.00  and  over 

TOTAL 


NUMBER 


PERCENTAGE 

Cumulative 


1  Jo  n-  Cumula  t  i  ve 


(less  than  basis) 


New 

York 

City 

9 

4 

2 

.    15 

,   53 

.172 

208 

102 

.  94 

32 

.  13 

5 

9 

9 


Out-  To-  New       Cut-        To-  New       Out-  To- 

side  ts.1  York     side       tal         York     side  tal 

NYC  City     NYC  City     NYC. 


112  121     1.24     9.29     6.26  1.24  9.29  6.26 

331  335        .55  27.44  17.33  1.79  35.73  23.59 

240  242        .28  19.90   12.52  2.07  56.63  36.11 

191  .203     2.06   15.84  10.56  4.13  72.47  46.77 

121  174     7.29   10.03     9.00  11.42  82.50  55.77 

81  253  23.65     6.72   13.08  35.07  89.22  68.85 

64  272  28.51     5.31  14.07  63.68  94.53  82.92 

18  120  14.03     1.49     6.21  77.71  96.02  89.13 

21  115  12.93     1.74     5.95  90.54  97.76  95.08 

14  .46     4.40     1.16     2.38  95.04  98.92  97.46 

2  15     1.79        .17        .78  96.83  99.09  98.24 
8  13        .69        .66        .67  97.52  99.75  98.91 

3  12     1.24        .25        .62  98.76  100.00  99.53 

9      1.24         —        .47  100.00  100.00 


727    1205  1933  100.0  100.0  100.0 


1351-E 


TABLE  XV 

AVERAGE  YEARLY   1/   EARNINGS  FOR  FACTORY 

WORKERS  IN  WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL  ESTABLISHMENTS, 

BY   STATES  OR  CITIES,    1929-1933  INCLUSIVE 


States 

Number 

Number 

of 

of 

Retail  Fur 

Trade 

or 

Identical 
Establish- 

Factory 
Wo  rker  s 

Cities 

ments 

2/ 

1929        1930 

1931 

1932 

1933 

(States) 

1 

1 

$  720 

548 

416 

292 

Eastern 

2 

3-6    • 

375 

547 

567 

9 

18-31 

1,077 

1,192 

Mid- 

1 

3-10 

1,879 

1,159 

900 

1,043 

Western 

5 

10-15 

1,130 

1,185 

935 

7 

17-41 

1,191 

1,123 

Western 

1 

2-12 

519 

1,417 

1,386 

976 

1 

1-14 

341 

319 

319 

1 

1-2 

1,111 

1,144 

Southern 

1 

2-6 

1,245 

1,549 

1,196 

964 

Wholesale  Fur  Trade 

New  York 

7 

56-165 

1,623     1,267 

1,055 

1,500 

1,553 

1 

5-20 

2,109 

2,280 

1,588 

6 

27-51 

2,228 

2,102 

6 

14-64 

1,472 

Minneapolis 

St.   Paul 

1 
1 

4 
14 

971 

880 
896 

Mi  scellaneous     3 


9-15 


255 


232 


230 


328 


277 


1/     Yearly  Earnings  based  on  "Total  wages  paid"  and  "Average  number  «f 
Factjry  wage   earners."      For  1929,    1930  and  1931  the  dates  are  given 
on  yearly  basis;    for  1932  and  1933  on  quarterly  basis.      In  the  lat- 
ter years  the  average  yearly  earnings  are  a  total  of  the  weighted 
quarterly  earnings. 

2/     Number  of  factory  workers  is   the  lowest  and  highest  average  number 
given  yearly  in  1929,    1930  and  1931   for  identical   establishments; 
while  in  1932  and  1933  it   is   the  lowest  and  highest   quarterly  aver- 
age during  the  period  1932-33. 

SOURCE:      Computed  from  "Confidential  Report   for   the  Bureau  of   the  Census 
and  the  N.R.A.;    Ear  Manufacturing  Industry;11  March  2,    1934. 


1351-S 


-sa- 
in HOURS 


In  H.Y.C.  35  hours  is  the  -predominating  work  week,  as  reported 
to  the  commission,  and  it  is  also  found  in  some  establishments,  es- 
pecially wholesale,  outside  the  city.  For  the  most  part  establish- 
ments outside  the  city  have  a  40  hour  week,  with  some  44  and  in  some 
cases  more. 

From  Table  XVI  it  appears  that  about  95$  of  the  establishments 
in  H.Y.C.  have  a  35  hour  week  as  against  50%  outside.  A  40  hour  week 
was  reported  by  only  5$  of  the  H.Y.C.  establishments  as  cormared  with 
$  of  those  outside. 


Viewed  from  the  standpoint  of  workers,  rather  than  establishments, 
the  actual  time  for  59$  of  the  IT.Y.C.  workers  and  39$  of  those  outside 
was  35  hours,  while  only  3$  of  those  in  H.Y.C.  as  compared  with  42$ 
outside  worked  40  hours. 

The  prominence  of  short  time  in  H.Y.C.  may  be  accounted  for,  at 
least  in  part,  by  minor  holidays.   The  survey  was  postponed  several 
weeks  to  avoid  major  Jewish  Holidays  and  it  would  have  been  extended 
several  more  weeks  if  all  such  holidays  were  to  be  avoided. 

Census  data,  as  shown  in  Table  XVII  shows  a  persistent  tendency 
for  average  hours  to  be  lower  in  the  Eastern  states  than  in  the  other  ( 
groups  of  states.   Thus  in  1933  Eastern  states  averaged  37.7  hours  as 
against  42.7,  40.2  and  40.3  for  Mid-western,  Western  and  Southern  states 
respectively. 

From  this  table  it  also  appears  that  a  reduction  in  hours  occurred 
between  1932  and  1933.  As  between  1929  and  1932  hours  remained  sub- 
stantially the  same,  but  for  the  industry  as  a  whole  the  average  fell 
from  46  in  1929  and  1932  to  about  41  in  1933.  ■ 


1351-E 


-27- 


TABLE  XVI 


DISTRUBUTION  OF  WORKING  TIME  PSR  WEEK  HI  AND  OUTSIDE  NEW 
YORK  CITY  BY  1IUMEER  OF  ESTAHLISHMsHTS  AND  BY  NUMBER  OF   GRAFT   WORKERS 

SEPTEMBER  24-29,   1954. 


Pred 
of  E 

Numb 

w 

rk 

ty 

jminating  Time 
s  t  ab  1  i  shm  en  t  s__ 

er                  Perce 

Actual   T 
Craft   Wo 

.me  oi 
rkers 

Hours 
per 

ai  tape 

Numb 

New 

York 

City, 

er 

Out 
side 

NYC 

27 

Percent< 

New 

York 

..g.jty 

12.1 

2££ 

Week 

Ne 
Yo 
Ci 

Out       New 
side     York 
NYC       City 

Out      ' 

side 

NYC 

Out 
side 

_NYC 

Under  20 

.     .    87 

1.9 

20-24,3 

29 

26 

4.0 

1.8 

25-29.9 

76 

13 

10.5 

1.3 

30-34,9 

74 

34 

10.3 

2.4 

35-35.9 

70 

51        94.6 

29.5 

426 

554 

59.2 

38.7 

36-37.9 

2 

1.1 

14 

j 

1.0 

38-39.9 

3 

5 

.4 

.3 

40-40.9 

4' 

"103          5.4 

i    59 . 6 

24 

- 

601 

3. '3 

41.9 

41-42.9 

4 

2.3 

38 

2.6 

43-44. 9 

11 

6,4 

'    "     •     1 

73 

.1 

5.1 

45-46.9 

i 

5 

.3 

47-48.9 

2 

1*1  ■ 

31 

2.2 

49-50-9 

3 

.2 

51   and  over 

'•     • 

■    .    •      1 

4 

.1 

.3 

TOTAI 

74 

173     100.0 

100.0 

721 

1434 

100.0 

100.0 

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-29- 


IV.   SIZE  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS 


Viewed  from  the  standpoint  of  the  number  of  workers,  the  industry 
is  predominately  small  scale  both  in  and  outside  1I.Y.C.  Table  -VIII 
indicates  that  for  the  industry  as  a  whole  40>  of  the  establishments 
have  5  or  less  workers  and  70^  have  7  or  less.  Only  about  3w  °*  «j£ 
establishments  have  20  or  more.  These  proportions  tend  to  hold ooth  in 
and  outside  H.T.O.  The  similarity  between  the  size  of  establishments  in 
and  outside  1T.Y.C.  is  shown  graphically  in  Chart  V. 

The  si^e  of  establishments  as  shown  by  Census  data  covering  the 
retail  trade  is  approximately  that  disclosed  by  the  Conxion's  inquiry. 
The  Commission  found  the  average  size  of  establishments  to *«  7.4  work 
ers  as  compared  with  5.6  shown  by  the  Census  survey.  Table  ^  Sives 
the  averages  computed  from  Census  data  for  major  sections  of  the  country 
in  a  representative  week  of  October  1929,  1932  and  1933. 

This  same  tendency  to  smallness  is  shown  by  an  analysis  of  the   • 
dollar  volume  of  for  manufacturing,  although  here  establishments  outside 
ff.Y.C.  show  a  tendency  to  be  smaller  than  those  reported  in  N.Y.C.  The 
cumulative  percentage  distribution  in  Table  XX  shows  that  while  15-,o  oi 
^establishments  in  1T.Y.C.  did  less  than  $6,000  worth  of  manufacturing 
in  1933,  this  was  the  case  with  30f,  of  those  outside.  In  the  city  23j 
did  less  than  $10,000  as  compared  with  47?,  of  the  establishment  sous  iae, 
as  while  half  of  those  in  the  city  did  less  than  £30,000  about  82*  of  t 
those  outside  did  less  than  this  amount. 


1351-E 


-  so  - 

TABLE  XVIII 

SIZE  OP  PUB  MAiroiA-CiUEING  ESTABLISHMENTS  BY  NUMBER 
OP   CBAPT  WOHEBBS 
September  24-29,    1934 


imber 

Nun 
Number 

iber  and 

Percer 

itage  of 

Establishments 

m 

Percents 

ige 

of 

Craft 

Non- 

Cumulative 

Wo  i 

*ker  s 

lew 

Out- 

Cumulative 

(Less  Than) 

new 

Out- 

Hew 

Out- 

York 

side 

Total 

York 

side- 

To  tal 

York 

side  Total 

City 

NYC 

City 

NYC 

City 

NYC 

1 

8 

31 

39 

7.14 

17.22 

13.35 

7.1 

17.2 

13.4 

2 

13 

24 

40 

14.28 

13.33 

13.70 

21.4 

30.5 

27.1 

3 

23 

16 

39 

20;  54 

8.89 

13.35 

42.0 

39.4 

40.4 

4 

7 

17 

24 

6.25 

9.44 

3.22 

48.2 

48.9 

48.6 

5 

5 

9 

14 

4.46 

5.00 

4.79 

52.7 

53.9 

53.4 

6 

11 

16 

27 

9.82 

8.89 

9.25 

62.5 

62.8 

62.7 

7 

8 

12 

20 

7.14 

6.67 

6.85 

69.6 

59.4 

69.5 

8 

6 

2 

8 

5.36 

1.11 

2.74 

75.0 

70.6 

72.3 

y 

6 

5 

11 

5.36 

2.78 

3.77 

80.4 

73.3 

76.0 

10- 

-14 

14 

24 

33 

12 .  50 

13.33 

13.01 

92.9 

86.7 

89.1 

15- 

•19 

4 

12 

15 

3.57 

6.67 

5.43 

96.4 

03.3 

94.5 

20- 

■24 

2 

'5 

3 

1.79 

3.33 

2.74 

98.2 

96.7 

97,3 

25-49 

2 

3 

5 

1.79 

1.S7 

1.71 

100.0 

98.3 

99.0 

50- 

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•— ■ 

2 

— 

1.11 

0.58 

mm 

99.4 

99.7 

75- 

•99 

— 

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w 

_ 

mm 

mm 

_ 

_ 

^» 

100  and  over  -  1  1-0.56        0.34         -     100.0  100.0 

Total  112  180  292     100.0     100.0     100.0     100.0   100.0   100.0 


1351-E 


-CI- 
TABLE XIX 

AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF  MALE,  FEMALE,  AND  TOTAL  FACTORY  WORKERS  IN 
THE  RETAIL  FUR  TRADE  BY  MAJOR  SECTION  OF  TIE  COUNTRY,  1929, 

1932  and  1933. 


AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF  WORKERS 

Section  No.   of 

Estal).  1929 '  1932  1933 

M^le_Female_   Total  Male  Female,  Total,  Male  Female     Total, 

Eastern     53  2,5   '  3,2"  \"    '5,7       1,9'    2.3  4.2        2.1      2.5  4.6 

Mid-West   57  3.2     5.1  8.3        2.7     3.8  6.5       2.7     4.5  7.2 

Western     15  1.5     4.1     '     '  5', 5'    .'0.8'     2.7   '  3.5       0.9      2.9  3.8 


NUMBER  0? 

WORKERS 

Section  No. 

of 

Estab* 

1929 

1932 

1933 

Male 

Female 

Total  Male 

Female 
122 

Total 
223 

Male 
113 

Female 
133 

Total 

Eastern  53 

134 

167 

501   101 

246 

Mid- West  57 

183 

289 

472   152 

219 

371 

153 

256 

409 

Western  15 

22 

61 

83    12 

41 

53 

13 

44 

57 

Southern  11 

17 

45 

C2    17 

41 

58 

17 

41 

58 

TOTAL  136 

356 

562 

918   282 

423 

705 

296 

474 

770 

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~34~ 

SECTI01I  B 
LIST  OF  PETITIONERS  I0R  EXEMPTION 


The  Commission  lias  cons'icL'ered  the  petitions  for  exemptions  sub- 
mitted "by  the  following  firms,:-.    . 

State 

California 


Uame  of  Firm 

City 
3eveiv 

or  Town 

L  .  S .  Spiegel 

Ly  Hills 

Blenner  Siegel 

Los  Angeles 

Gene  Geft 

ii 

Ben  Cohen 

ii 

T.  V.  Smith 

ii 

Herbert  J.  Stern 

it 

Karl  Smahel 

■ 

n 

Walter  Beake 

ii 

Martin  Robert 

ii 

Frederick1 s  Fur  Shop 

ii 

Leslie  Soo's 

:i 

Stout  &  Dennis,  Inc. 

n 

Frank  Hoffmor  Co. 

ii 

Rose  Ann  Sitkin 

it 

Max  Kaufman 

it 

Pendl  &  Sons 

ii 

George  M.  pauli 

it 

Aldene  E.  Ethier 

ii 

Lillian  Orr 

ii 

Harry  Stenn 

ii 

Matyko ' s 

ii 

A.  C.  Fischer 

ii 

Ray  A.  Ramos 

n 

Oxford  Furrier 

ii 

Willard  E.  George,  Ltd. 

ii 

3.  Gal.  Retail  Fur  Merchants 

Association 

ii 

Simpson  Furs 

n 

Bullwinkels1 

Oakland 

F.  IT.  Harry 

Long 

Beach  • 

J.  L.  Lockwood 

ii 

ii 

Mary  R.  Confar 

San  Diego 

Joceph  Hoonan 

ii 

ii 

C-r ■'.!' '  s  Furs 

n 

ii 

M.  Harris  Corp. 

San 

Francisco 

Louis  Gassner,  Inc. 

ii 

n 

Parisian  Fur  Reblending 

and.  Dyeing  Company 

ii 

ii 

Beetz  Bros,  and  Co.,  Inc. 

ii 

n 

(see  also  financial 

statement) 

San  Francisco  Retail  Fur 

Merchants'  Association 

n 

ii 

1351-E 


-55- 


Ilame  of  Firm 


City  or  Town 


Simpson  Furs 

San 

Francisco 

J  *    Sal zman 

n 

A.  H.  Allgoewer 

ii 

Schneider  Bros.,    Inc. 

ii 

William  Pinker s 

ii 

Begun  Purs 

ii 

Julius  Garfinkel  and  Co. 

Wasl 

lington 

James  A.  Joseph 

Chicago 

Sioux  City  Fur  and  Trim- 

ming Co. 

Sioux  City 

August  Williges 

n 

it 

Pelletetiers'    Fine  Furs 

ii 

n 

The  Dikel  Par  Co. 

ii 

n 

Rhomb erg  Fur  Co. 

Dubuque 

The  Royal  Furrier 

Watej 

."loo 

Charles  Greehberg 

Cedaj 

•  Rapids 

I.J.  Fox 

Boston 

George  Griffin  &  Son  Co. 

ii 

Boston  Fur  Club 

n 

L.   C.  Pazolt   Co. 

n 

Hall,  Haddison  &  Levin 

Inc. 

n 

E.   Sundlcvist  &  Co. 

St.  Paul 

S.  P.   Glemaker,    Inc. 

ii 

n 

B.  T7.  Harris  Mfg.    Co. 

n 

n 

(Zero  King) 

H.  Harris  Co. 

!! 

ii 

E.  Albrecht  &  Son 

il 

ii 

Gordin  &  Ferguson  -Co. 

II 

-  n 

Joseph  Get zing  Furs 

'1 

ii 

Gershow 

II 

1! 

Soroshow  Furs,  Tnc-. 

II 

II 

Tatkin  Fur  Co. 

II 

II 

A.  M.  Miller  Co. 

II 

1! 

Hope  Furs,    Inc. 

II 

II 

E.   Victor  Ekholm 

II 

II 

Franckowrac  Co.                  ■'••   - 

II.    . 

II 

C.    Forsman1 s 

II 

II 

R.  P.  Who 

11 

II 

Harris  Mfg.   Co. 

It 

II 

Uational  Furriers'    Guild 

Inc. 

II 

II 

Harry  Rosenberg 

Minneapolis 

Frank  C.  Janicke 

i 

1 

State 


District  of  Columbia 
Illinois 

Iowa 


Massachusetts 


Minnesota 


1351-E 


-35- 


Name  of  Firm 

Schwartz  Bros.  Mfg.  Co. 

Independent  Fur  Co. 

Jans  Fur  Mfg.  Co. 

D.  L  en  she  Mfg.  Co. 

Powers  Mercantile  Co. 

Furriers'  Mfg.  Co.,  Inc. 

The  Dayton  Co. 

Brown  Bros. ,  Inc. 

Hoy  E.  Bjorkman,  Inc. 

Gould  Furs 

Raleigh's  Armand  Gero  Fur  Co. 

Berglund  Co. 

Geo.  E.  Young  Co.,  Inc. 

The  Loring  Fur  Co. 

Kersten  Furs 

Conrad  Fur  Co.,  Inc. 

Master  Furriers'  Guild 

Newton  Annis  Furs  - 


City  or  Town 

Minneapolis 
ii 

ii 

it 

it 

ii 

ii 

ii 

ii 

ii 

ii 

ii 

n 

ii 
Rochester 
T/ir.cna 
Duluth 

Detroit 


State 
Minnesota 


Aulahaugh  Fur  Co.  Omaha 

Cadwallader  Fur  Mfg.  Co.  Lincoln 

Peter  T.  Travers,  Inc.  Omaha 

Henry  E.  Thompson  Omaha 
Assoc,  of  Furriers  of  the  9th 

Federal  Reserve  District  &  the 

States  of  Iowa  and  Nebraska 

Belt  Fur  Co.  Boundbrook 

Joseph  Birhbaum  Flemington 

Halpern  &  Friednan,  attorneys   Buffalo 
Buffalo  Fur  Merchants'  Assoc, 

Inc.  » 

Retail  Furriers'  in  the  City  of 


Buffalo 

M.  D.   Spiegel  Fur  Corp. 
Retail  Mfg.  Furriers  Assoc. 

State  Fur  Co. 

Wermuth  Fur  Co. 
Eilers'  Furriers 

Joseph  C.  Bisha 

Artie  Fur  Co. 


315  7th  Ave.,  IT.  Y.  C, 
IT.  Y. 

Bi  smarck 

Sioux  Falls 

Huron 

La  Crosse 
Tacoma 


Michigan 
Nebraska 


N.  J. 


N.  Y. 


(Nat'l  Assoc.) 

N.  D. 

S.  D. 
n   n 

Wi  sc . 
Washington 


1551-E 


-57- 


ifome  of  Firm  City  or  Town  State 


Hudson  Bay  Far  Co.  Seattle  Washington 

Baker  Fur  Co.  " 

Arctic  Far  Co.  " 

Wash.  Retail  Furriers'  Assoc.      " 

Spokane  Fur  Merchants1  Assoc.  Spokane 

lev ley  Bros.  " 


1351-E 


OFFICE  OF  THE  NATIONAL  RECOVERY  ADMINISTRATION 
THE  DIVISION  OF  REVIEW 

THE  WORK  OF  THE  DIVISION  OF  REVIEW 

Executive  Order  No.  7075,  dated  June  15,  1935,  established  the  Division  of  Review  of  the 
national  Recovery  Administration.   The  pertinent  part  of  the  Executive  Order  reads  thus: 

The  Division  of  Review  shall  assemble,  analyze,  and  report  upon  the  statistical 
information  and  records  of  experience  of  the  operations  of  the  various  trades  and 
industries  heretofore  subject  to  codes  of  fair  competition,  shall  study  the  ef- 
fects of  such  codes  upon  trade,  industrial  and  labor  conditions  in  general,  and 
othe.-  related  matters,  shall  make  available  for  the  protection  and  promotion  of 
the  public  interest  an  adequate  review  of  the  effects  of  the  Administration  of 
Title  I  of  the  National  Ind- strial  Recovery  Act,  and  the  principles  and  policies 
put  into  effect  thereunder,  and  shall  otherwise  aid  the  President  in  carrying  out 
his  functions  under  the  said  Title. 

The  study  sections  set  up  in  the  Division  of  Review  covered  these  areas:  industry 
studies,  foreign  trade  studies,  labor  studies,  trade  practice  studies,  statistical  studies, 
legal  studies,  administration  studies,  miscellaneous  studies,  and  the  writing  of  code  his- 
tories.  The  materials  which  were  produced  by  these  sections  are  indicated  below. 

Except  for  the  Code  Histories,  all  items  mentioned  below  are  scheduled  to  be  in  mimeo- 
graphed form  by  April  1,  1936. 

THE  CODE  HISTORIES 

The  Code  Histories  are  documented  accounts  of  the  formation  and  administration  of  the 
codes.  They  contain  the  definition  of  the  industry  and  the  principal  products  thereof:  the 
classes  of  members  in  the  industry;  the  history  of  code  formation  including  an  account  of  the 
sponso:ing  organizations,  the  conferences,  negotiations  and  hearings  which  were  held,  and 
the  activities  in  connection  with  obtaining  approval  of  the  code;  the  history  of  the  ad- 
ministration of  the  code,  covering  the  organization  and  operation  of  the  code  authority, 
the  difficulties  encountered  in  administration,  the  extent  of  compliance  or  non-compliance, 
and  the  general  success  or  lack  of  success  of  the  code;  and  an  analysis  of  the  operation  of 
code  provisions  dealing  with  wages,  hours,  trade  practices,  and  other  provisions.  These 
and  other  matters  are  canvassed  not  only  in  terms  of  the  materials  to  be  found  in  the  files, 
but  also  in  terms  f  the  experiences  of  the  deputies  and  others  concerned  with  code  formation 
and  administration. 

The  Code  Histories,  (including  histories  of  certain  NRA  units  or  agencies)  are  not 
mimeographed.  They  are  to  be  turned  over  to  the  Department  of  Commerce  in  typewritten  form. 
All  told,  approximately  eight  hundred  and  fifty  (850)  histories  will  be  completed.  This 
number  includes  all  of  the  approved  codes  and  some  of  the  unapproved  codes.  (In  Work  Mate- 
rials No  18.  Contents  of  Code  Histories,  will  be  found  the  outline  which  governed  the 
preparation  of  Code  Histories.) 

(In  the  case  of  all  approved  codes  and  also  in  the  case  of  some  codes  not  carried  to 
final  approval,  there  are  in  NRA  files  further  materials  on  industries.  Particularly  worthy 
of  mention  are  the  Volumes  I,  II  and  III  which  c  nstitute  the  material  officially  submitted 
to  the  President  in  support  of  the  recommendation  for  approval  of  each  code.  These  volumes 
9675—1 . 


-  ii  - 

set  forth  the  origination  of  the  code,  the  sponsoring  group,  the  evidence  advanced  to  sup- 
port the  proposal,  the  report  of  the  Division  of  Research  and  Planning  on  the  industry,  the 
recommendations  of  the  various  Advisory  Boards,  certain  types  of  official  correspondence, 
the  transcript  of  the  formal  hearing,  and  other  pertinent  matter.  There  is  also  much  offi- 
cial information  relating  to  amendments,  interpretations,  exemptions,  and  other  rulings.  The 
materials  mentioned  in  this  paragraph  were  of  course  not  a  part  of  the  work  of  the  Division 
of  Review. ) 

THE  WORK  MATERIALS  SERIES 

In  the  work  jf  the  Division  of  Review  a  considerable  number  of  studies  and  compilation! 
of  data  (other  than  those  noted  below  in  the  Evidence  Studies  Series  and  the  Statistical 
Materials  Series)  have  been  made.  These  are  listed  below,  grouped  according  to  the  char- 
acter of  the  material.  (In  lork  Materials  No_  U,  Tentative  Outlines  and,  Summaries  %£ 
Studies  in  Process .  these  materials  are  fully  described). 

Industry  Studies 

Automobile  Industry,  An  Economic  Survey  of 

Bituminous  Coal  Industry  under  Free  Competition  and  Code  Regulation,  Economic  Survey  of 

Construction  Industry  and  NRA  Construction  Codes,  the 

Electrical  Manufacturing  Industry,  The 

Fertilizer  Industry,  The 

Fishery  Industry  and  the  Fishery  Codes 

Fishermen  and  Fishing  Craft,  Earnings  of 

Foreign  Trade  under  the  National  Industrial  Recovery  Act 

Part  A  -  Competitive  Position  of  the  United  States  in  International  Trade  1927-29  through 

1934. 
Part  B  -  Section  3  (e)  of  NIRA  and  its  administration, 
part  C  -  Imports  and  Importing  under  NRA  Codes. 
Part  D  -  Exports  and  Exporting  under  NRA  Codes. 

Forest  Products  Industries,  Foreign  Trade  Study  of  the 

Iron  and  Steel  Industry,  The 

Knitting  Industries,  The 

Leather  and  Shoe  Industries,  The 

Lumber  and  Timber  Products  Industry,  Economic  Problems  of  the 
Men's  Clothing  Industry,  The 
Millinery  Industry,  The 
Motion  Picture  Industry,  The 

Migration  of  Industry,  The:   The  Shift  of  Twenty-Five  Needle  Trades  From  New  York  State, 
1926  to  1934 

National  Income,  A  study  of. 
Paper  Industry,  The 

Production,  Prices,  Employment  and  Payrolls  in  Industry,  Agriculture  and  Railway  Trans- 
portation, January  1923,  to  date 
Retail  Trades  Study,  The 
Rubber  Industry  Study,  The 
Statistical  Background  of  NRA 

Textile  Industry  in  the  United  Kingdom,  France,  Germany,  Italy,  and  Japan 
Textile  Yarns  and  Fabrics 
Tobacco  Industry,  The 
Wholesale  Trades  Study,  The 
9675. 


-  iii  - 

Women's  Apparel  Industry,  Some  Aspects  of  the 

Trade  Practice  Studies 

Commodities,  Information  Concerning:   A  Study  of  NRA  and  Related  Experiences  in  Control 
Distribution,  Manufacturers'  Control  of:   A  Study  of  Trade  Practice  Provisions  in  Selected 

NRA  Codes 
Design  Piracy:   The  Problem  and  Its  Treatment  Under  NRA  Codes 
Electrical  Mfg.  Industry:   Price  Filing  Study 
Fertilizer  Industry:   Price  Filing  Study 

Geographical  Price  Relations  Under  Codes  of  Fair  Competition,  Control  of 
Minimum  Price  Regulation  Under  Codes  of  Fair  Competition 
Multiple  Basing  Point  System  in  the  Lime  Industry:   Operation  of  the 
Price  Control  in  the  Coffee  Industry 
Price  Filing  Under  NRA  Codes 

Production  Control  Under  NRA  Codes,  Some  Aspects  of. 
Resale  Price  Maintenance  Legislation  in  the  United  States 

Retail  Price  Cutting,  Restriction  of,  with  special  Emphasis  on  The  Drug  Industry. 
Trade  Practice  Rules  of  The  Federal  Trade  Commission  (1914-1936):   A  classification  foi 

comparison  with  Trade  Practice  Provisions  of  NRA  Codes. 

Labor  Studies 

Employment,  Payrolls,  Hours,  and  Wages  in  115  Selected  Code  Industries  1933-1935 

Hours  and  Wages  in  American  Industry 

Labor  Program  Under  the  National  Industrial  Recovery  Act,  The 

Part  A.   Introduction 

Part  B.   Control  of  Hours  and  Reemployment 

Part  C.   Control  of  Wages 

Part  D.   Control  of  Other  Conditions  of  Employment 

Part  E.   Section  7(a)  of  the  Recovery  Act 
PRA  Census  of  Employment,  June,  October, 1933 
Puerto  Rico  Needlework,  Homeworkers  Survey 

Administrative  Studies 

Administrative  and  Legal  Aspects  of  Stays,  Exemptions  and  Exceptions,  Code  Amendments,  Con- 
ditional Orders  of  Approval 

Administrative  Interpretations  of  NRA  Codes 

Administrative  Law  and  Procedure  under  the  NIRA 

Agreements  Under  Sections  4(a)  and  7(b)  of  the  NIRA 

Approved  Codes  in  Industry  Groups,  Classification  of 

Basic  Code,  the  —  (Administrative  Order  X-61) 

Code  Authorities  and  Their  Part  in  the  Administration  of  the  NIRA 
Part  A.  Introduction 

Part  B.  Nature,  Composition  and  Organization  of  Code  Authorities 
Part  C.  Activities  of  the  Code  Authorities 
Part  D.  Code  Authority  Finances 
Part  C.  Summary  and  Evaluation 

9675. 


-  iv  - 

Code  Compliance  Activities  of  the  NRA 

Code  Making  Program  of  the  NRA  in  the  Territories,  The 

Code  Provi  ions  and  Related  Subjects,  Policy  Statements  Concerning 

Content  of  N1RA  Administrative  Legislation 

Part  A.  Executive  and  Administrative  Orders 

Part  B.  Labo  •  Provisions  in  the  Codes 

Part  C.  Trade  Practice  Provisions  in  the  Codes 

Part  D.  Administrative  Provisions  in  the  Codes 

Part  E.  Agreements  under  Sections  4(a)  and  7(b) 

Part  F.  A  Type  Case:  The  Cotton  Textile  Code 
Labels  Under  NRA,  A  Study  of 

Model  Code  and  Model  Provisions  for  Codes,  Development  of 
National  Recovery  Administration,  The:   A  Review  and  Evaluation  of  its  Organization  and 

Activities 
NRA  Insignia 

President's  Reemployment  Agreement,  Tha 

President's  Reemployment  Agreement,  Substitutions  in  Connection  with  the 
Prison  Labor  Problem  under  NRA  and  the  Prison  Compact,  The 
Problems  of  Administration  in  the  Overlapping  of  Code  Definitions  of  Industries  and  Trades, 

Multiple  Code  Coverage,  Classifying  Individual  Members  of  Industries  and  Trades 
Relationship  jf  NRA  to  Government  Contracts  and  Contracts  Involving  the  Use  of  Government 

Funds 
Relationship  of  NRA  with  other  Federal  Agencies 
Relationship  of  NRA  with  States  and  Muncipalities 
Sheltered  Workshops  Under  NRA 
Uncodified  Industries:   A  Study  of  Factors  Limiting  the  Code  Making  Program 

Legal  Studies 

Anti-Trust  Laws  and  Unfair  Competiti  n 

Collective  Bargaining  Agreements,  the  Right  of  Individual  Employees  to  Enforce  Provisions  of 

ommerce  Clause,  Possible  Federal  Regulation  of  the  Employer-Employee  Relationship  Under  the 

Delegation  of  Power,  Certain  Phases  of  the  Principle  of,  with  Reference  to  Federal  Industrial 
Regulatory  Legislation 

Enforcement,  Extra-Judicial  Methods  of 

Federal  Regulation  through  the  Joint  Employment  of  the  Power  of  Taxation  aid  the  Spending 
Power 

Government  Contract  Provisions  as  a  Means  of  Establishing  Proper  Econ  mic  Standards,  Legal 
Memorandum  on  P  ssibility  of 

Intrastate  Activities  Which  so  Affect  Interstate  Commerce  as  to  Bring  them  Under  the  Com- 
merce Clause,  Cases  on 

Legislative  Possibilities  of  the  State  Constitutions 

Post  Office  and  Post  Road  Power  —  Can  it  be  Used  as  a  Means  of  Federal  Industrial  Regula- 
tion? 

State  Recovery  Legislation  in  Aid  of  Federal  Recovery  Legislation  History  and  Analysis 

Tariff  Rates  to  Secure  Proper  Standards  of  Wages  and  Hours,  the  Possibility  of  Variation  in 

irade  Practices  and  the  Anti-Trust  Laws 

Treaty  Making  Power  of  the  United  States 

War  Power,  Can  it  be  Used  as  a  Means  of  Federal  Regulation  of  Child  Labor? 

9675. 


THE  EVIDENCE  STUDIES  SERIES 

Tbe  Evidence  Studies  were  originally  undertaken  to  gather  material  for  pending  court 
cases.  Aftei  the  Schechter  decision  the  project  was  continued  in  order  to  assemble  data  for 
use  in  connection  with  the  studies  of  the  Division  of  Review.  The  data  are  particularly 
concerned  with  the  nature,  size  and  operations  of  the  industry;  and  with  the  relation  of  the 
irdustry  to  interstate  commerce.  The  industries  covered  by  the  Evidence  Studies  account  for 
mora  than  one-half  of  the  total  number  of  workers  under  codes.  The  list  of  these  studies 
follows: 


Automobile  Manufacturing  Industry 
Automotive  Parts  and  Equipment  Industry 
Baking  Industry 

Boot  and  Shoe  Manufacturing  Industry 
Bottled  Soft  Drink  Industry 
Builders'  Supplies  Industry 
Canning  Industry 
Chemical  Manufacturing  Industry 
Cigar  Manufacturing  Industry 
Coat  and  Suit  Industry 
Construction  Industry 
Cotton  Garment  Industry 
Dress  Manufacturing  Industry 
Electrical  Contracting  Industry 
Electrical  Manufacturing  Industry 
Fabricated  Metal  Products  Mfg.  Industry  and 
Metal  Finishing  and  Metal  Coating  Industry 
Fishery  Industry- 
Furniture  Manufacturing  Industry 
General  Contractors  Industry 
General  Contractors  Industry 
Graphic  Arts  Industry 
Graphic  Arts  Industry 
Gray  Iron  Foundry  Industry 
Hosiery  Industry 

Infant's  and  Children's  Wear  Industry 
Iron  and  Steel  Industry 


Leather  Industry 

Lumbar  and  Timber  Products  Industry 
Mason  Contractors  Industry 
Men's  Clothing  Industry 
Motion  Picture  Industry 
Motor  Vehicle  Retailing  Trade 
Needlework  Industry  of  Puerto  Rico 
Painting  and  Paperhanging  Industry 
Photo  Engraving  Industry 
Plumbing  Contracting  Industry 
Retail  Lumber  Industry 
Retail  Trade  Industry 
Retail  Tire  and  Battery  Trade  Industry 
Rubber  Manufacturing  Industry 
Rubber  Tire  Manufacturing  Industry 
Shipbuilding  Industry 
Silk  Textile  Industry 
Structural  Clay  Products  Industry 
Throwing  Industry 
Trucking  Industry 
Waste  Materials  Industry 
Wholesale  and  Retail  Food  Industry 
Waste  Materials  Industry 
Wholesale  and  Retail  Food  Industry 
Wholesale  Fresh  Fruit  and  Vegetable  Indus- 
try 
Wool  Textile  Industry 


THE  STATISTICAL  MATERIALS  SERIES 


This  series  is  supplementary  to  the  Evidence  Studies  Series.  The  reports  include  data 
on  establishments,  firms,  employment,  payrolls,  wages,  hours,  production  capacities,  ship- 
ments, sales,  consumption,  stocks,  prices,  material  costs,  failures,  exports  and  import3. 
They  also  include  notes  on  the  principal  qualifications  that  should  be  observed  in  using  the 
data,  the  technical  methods  employed,  and  the  applicability  of  the  material  to  the  study  of 
the  industries  concerned.  The  following  numbers  appear  in  the  series: 
9675. 


-  vi  - 


Asphalt  Shingle  and  Roofing  Industry 

Business  Furniture 

Candy  Manufacturing  Industry 

Carpet  and  Rug  Industry 

Cement  Industry 

Cleaning  and  Dyeing  Trade 

Coffee  Industry 

Copper  and  Brass  Mill  Products  Industry 

Cotton  Textile  Industry 

Electrical  Manufacturing  Industry 

9675. 


Fertilizer  Industry 

Funeral  Supply  Industry 

Glass  Container  Industry 

Ice  Manufacturing  Industry 

Knitted  Outerwear  Industry 

Paint,  Varnish,  and  Lacquer,  Mfg.  Industry 

Plumbing  Fixtures  Industry 

Rayon  and  Synthetic  Yarn  Producing  Industry 

Salt  Producing  Industry