BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY
BLIC LIBRARY
, , II I II 1 1 M / '/
3 9999 06317 358 5
OFFICE OF NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION
DIVISION OF REVIEW
A CASE IN CODE AUTHORITY INFORMATION GATHERING
WORK MATERIALS NO. ELEVEN
MARCH, 1936
0F7ICE 0? HATIOML RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION
DIVISIOIT 0? REYIET7
A CASE IF CODE AUTHORITY IITOEMATIOl! GATHERING
I.1ARCH, 1936
9799
FOREWORD
A large number of code authorities made remarkable progress
in the gathering and dissemination of information concerning their in-
dustries. It is appropriate to mimeograph in the Work Materials Series
one illustration of such activities by code authorities. The Cotton
Garment Code Authority is chosen for this purpose "because as that or-
ganization itself has said, "This industry was nearly bankrupt in sta-
tistical information prior to the code. "
In order to illustrate the progress made by the Cotton Gar-
ment Code Authority in information gathering, two documents are pre-
sented. The first of these is entitled, "'The First Four Months under
the Cotton Garment Code (with Fact-Findings on the Eleven Incomplete
Provisions)". This document was presented by the industry at the ERA
hearing on the proposed thirty-si:: hour week in the Cotton Garment
Industry, June 18, 1934. The second is entitled "Cotton Garment Em-
ployment, Wages and Hours - July, 1929 to April, 1935".
Such mobilisations of facts and figures by the statistical
division of the Code Authority, occurring as they did for the first
time in the industry, involved the compilation of a mailing list
covering 3300 factories located in 900 towns in 42 states; the edu-
cating of manufacturers on consistent statistical reporting; and the
preparation of monthly statistical analyses covering data from the
largest of the apparel industries, employing 200,000 workers.
The achievements of this Code Authority are an interesting
illustration of the services that an industry may render its members.
At the back of this report will be found a statement of
the studies undertaken by the Division of Review.
L. C. Liar shall
Director, Division of Review
March 14, 1934
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THE FIRST FOUR MONTHS UNDER THE COTTON GARMENT CODE
(with Fact-Findings on the Eleven Incomplete provisions)
TABLE OF CONTENTS Page
Introduction 2
a. Gains by Workers Under Code 2
b. Most Widely Decentralized Industry 3
c. Types of Questionnaire Submitted to Manufacturers 3
d. Obstacles in Obtaining Statistical Information 4
e. Effect on Significant Comparisons by Plants not Reporting .... 4
1. Forty Hour Week and Re-employment 5
a. Number employed 5
b. Shorter Hours 6
c. Higher Earnings Per Hour 6
d. Weekly Wages 6
e. Production 7
f . Productivity of Workers 8
g. Plants Working Maximum Hoars Before the Code 8
2. Hours for Cutters 10
3. Hours and Employment in the Sheep-lined and Leather Garment
Industry 10
4. Maximum Hours for Non-Manufacturing Employees 11
5. Learners 12
a. Wage Hate 13
b. Number Permitted 13
c. Six Week Period 14
6. Privileged Employees 14
7. North - South Wage Differential 15
a. Disparity in Wage Rates 15
b. Living Costs 16
c. Gain in Productivity of Southern Workers 16
8. Effect of Minim-am Wage on price of Work Clothing and. Work Shirts.. 18
a. Prices and Wages 18
b. Productivity , 19
c. Production and Shipments 19
9. Wage Scale for Cutters 20
a. Hourly Earnings 20
b . Weekly Wage s 21
10. Wages Paid to Employees above the Minimum Rate 22
a. Operators 22
b. Cutters 22
c. Non-manufacturing and Office Employees 22
11 . Homework 23
Synopsis of Eleven Incomplete Provisions 25
Conclusion 27
a. Comparisons of 1934 with 1929 27
b. Accuracy of Results 27
c. Re-employment 27
Index of Tables 38
Index of Char t s 39
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TEE PI2ST FOUR HOTTHS ULT3EH THE OOTIDS GA^'EZT CODE
(rrith Fact-Findings o-l the Eleven Incomplete Provisions)
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THE FIRST FOUR I.IOKTHS UNDER THE COTTON GARMENT CODE
INTRODUCTION
(a) Gains by Workers
The Cotton Garment Code has lifted hourly vases of its 200,000
workers to levels never before approached even in 1929. Child labor,
prison labor, and the sweatshop are speedily being relegated to the
unpleasant past. The forgotten woman of industry, the sewing machine
operator, now is able to spend the contents of a weekly pay envelope
which is 48fj larger than only one year ago.
Only 3?o of all employees are being paid below the minimum wage
according to payroll reports submitted "by 2,500 manufacturers cover-
ing 175,000 workers for the month of March. One year ago, 90$ of
the operators who comprised two-thirds of the workers and are the
group whose lives have benefited most by the protection of the Code,
were paid less than the present minimum wage. Even though the pres-
ent percentage of wage violations is double 3$, allowing for false
statement and firms not reporting, the record of improvements in the
welfare of labor is a challenge for other industries to match.
The three most significant facts to be noted are that from
February, 1933 to February, 1934, earnings of all workers rose from
23 to 37 cents an hour, average weekly hours worked fell from 41 to
32, and the biggest boost to purchasing po-rer was the rise from
$9.40 to $12.07 in the average weekly wages of all employees. These
facts are a tribute to the Cotton Garment Code only when it is real-
ized that for decades the Cotton Garment Industry has paid the
lowest wages of any manufacturing ^roup reporting to the Government,
and has outdone all industries in employment of child labor and
prison labor.
Although this industry is closest to the consumer, one hundred
million Americans daily wearing Shirts, Overalls, House Dresses, or
a dozcm other Cotton Garments, seldom realized the tragic exploita-
tion of labor which lay behind a bargain counter garment, even in the
prosperous years before the depression. Because wages represent a
larger proportion of the wholesale price of cotton garments than do
labor costs in almost any other industry, therefore, it has been pos-
sible for some producers always to undersell their competitors by
chiselling a few cents more from their underpaid workers. The chaos
of wage cutting reached its worst in the depth of the depression in
the Spring of 1933 as exemplified "oy a widely publicized Shirt industry
survey by the U. S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. In certain Pennsylvania
factories, the struggle for existence foi-ced some plants to pay opera-
tors $2.00 to $7.00 a week and even managers and proprietors $10,00
to $15.00 a week.
Now the consumer is protected by the Cotton Garment label,
160,000,000 of which have already been distributed, and which certi-
fies that the manufacturer has a clear record in obeying the wage
standards of the Code.
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Since almost revolutionary changes in wages and hours have occured
in less than a year, graphs are generously used to picture vividly
striking changes in the welfare of labor,
(b) Lost widely decentralized industry.
Over 3,000 Cotton Garment plants in 42 states are located by re-
gions in Chart 1. This map lists 3,818 establishments, although when
sales offices, and central offices are eliminated, the actual number of
factories is about 3,000. These plants are widely scattered in more
than 900 towns ranging from Hew York City to tiny villages, almost in
the manner of a handicraft trade with about ore factory for every 35,000
people.
Chart 2 shows a remarkable similarity between the location of Cotton
Garment plants and the distribution of total U. S. urban population.
However, the upper circle in this group shows that plants employing the
most workers are situated in small towns. Here is one striking individu-
ality of the Cotton Garment Industry contrasted to other apparel trades.
While 80)1 of employees in the Dress Industry and likewise 80$ of the
manufacturing workers in the Women's Coat and Suit Industry are situated
in the 'New York metropolitan area, only l'fa of Cotton Garment laborers
are located in New York City. Pour-fifths of Hen's Clothing workers
are enroloyed in ten large cities, while on the contrary 26^ of Cotton
Garment workers are in towns of less than 10,000 population.
Another basic difference is that 80$ of Cotton Garment workers are
women, the majority less than 25 years of age, while workers in other
apparel trades consist largely of skilled men.
This wide decentralization of the industry obviously is a handicap
to the collection of statistical data. Factories in 42 States include
illiterate immigrant contractors in slums of Eastern cities, homeworkers
in San Francisco's Chinatown, plants" epa-vting in prisons, sheltered
shops behind the walls of philanthropic institutions and some competing
plants in Puerto Rico outside the requirements of the Code.
(c) Types of questionnaire submitted to manufacturers.
This industry was nea-rly bankrupt in statistical information prior
to the Code. Government agencies collected monthly reports on Only
Shirts and Work Clothing, The remaining dozen Cotton Garment products
were completely neglected, and in 1933, the TJ. S. Census of Manufactures
for the first time gave the Cotton Garment Industry a unified classifica-
tion,
'Hie principal questionnaires dispatched to manufacturers by the
Cotton Garment Code Authority in addition to regular monthly payroll re-
ports are:
Preliminary Report on Machine Equipment
Production and Shipment Reports for February, July, and December,
1933 and January, 1934
Homework Questionnaire
I. A. G, LI. Inquiry on Cost Increases (to members only)
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I. A. G. LI « Questionnaire on Urban and Rural Differentials (to n em-
bers only)
National Association of Sheep Lined and Leather Garment Manufac-
turers' inquiry on Wages and Hours (to this industry only)
Machine Capacity, Employment and Payrolls, 1929, 1933, and 1934
Monthly Production Records.
These are the "basic sources for factual data on the Eleven Incom-
plete Provisions in the Code. Perhaps 500 of the 3,000 plants have not
submitted payroll reports, but these are mainly small establishments
whose employment is likely to be less than. 10^o of the industry's total.
(d) Obstacles in Obtaining Statistical Data.
Some Cotton Garment Manufacturers had never read a questionnaire
on production and employment before the adoption of this Code, A few
have probably not yet read one, despite the dispatch of dozens of
letters by the Code Authority and the personal calls of its field in-
vestigators.
The Cotton Garment Industry has been a haven for fly-by-night
concerns and in and out failures remaining in business not even long
enough to be tabulated by the biennial Census of Manufactures, which
was the Government's only attempt to cover all producers. A Cotton
Garment factory can be established on almost a shoe-string capitaliza-
tion, renting second-hand sewing machines, locating in a tenement house,
and employing child labor or even homeworkers, or in a country town by
conveying farm girls in trucks to the factory. Fnen deliveries are
made on a few sizable orders, the plant is liable to shut down for many
months or to reappear later with a different name in a new locality.
This type of producer, although in the minority will require a slow
process of education before becoming capable of submitting accurate
statistical information.
Chart 3 distributes 147,344 sewing machines among 1,376 plants.
The place of the small producer, particularly the contractor remains
entrenched in this industry more so than in almost any other line of
manufacturing, as plants with less than 100 sewing machines report 31$
of the total machinesa
(e) Effect on Significant Comparisons of Plants Hot Henorting.
The 500 plants not submitting regular monthly payroll reports
probably would pay lower wages than reporting companies.- As for all the
special questionnaires, particularly 1933 payroll and production figures
prior to the Code, replies are limited to several hundred concerns.
These are the higher type factories, since they possess records lacking
conspicuous errors. Although such companies are not typically represen-
tative, particularly as their wage rates are higher than the average,
nevertheless, these are the only figures available and a careful inter-
preter must recognize the deficiencies due to plants not submitting data.
The chief comparisons in this review of the Cotton Garment Indus-
try concern wage, hour, employment, and production data classified by
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i ; of garments manufactured by occupations, by geographical regions,
or contrasts between 193o and 1934.
Table 1 summarizes significant changes for 63,234 employees in 672
plants recorded for ootn lebruary, 1933 and February, 1934, representing
a cross section of one-third of the entire Cotton Garment Industry.
As expected, the 319 -plants reporting earlier made a slightly better
showing in wages and employment than the 353 plants later reporting.
Since totals are reasonably consistent, results should not be very
seriously altered by plants not submitting information. ,
1. "Determine whether or not the 40 hour week Provision of this Section
is resulting in increased Employment" - Article III (a),
(a) Number Employed.
The net change in employment from February, 1935 to February, 1934
in 67? plants is zero, despite compliance with the 40 hour reek pro-
vision in the Code for over 99/> of the workers reported. Table 2
summarizes these changes in rages, hours, and employment for each
product group, noting that hours were reduced sharply for each sub-
divisional industry, but this factor. bore no relationship to increased
employment in Overalls, Pants and viork Shirt factories due to declines
in numbers of employees in Shirt, Blouse, and Pajama plants.
Chart 4 shows that the Pork Clothing groups were the only sections
of the Cotton Garment Industry to register gains in employment. The
sharp increase of 53$ in Work Shirts was due to abolition of prison
labor by three large establishments since February, 1933 and the
substitution of free workers. This is one positive Denefit of the
KRA for if the reports of tnese tnree former prison labor plants were
not included, an actual decline of Zfo in employment in the Cotton
Garment Industry would be recorded.
At this point it should be noted in fairness that unemployment
prior to the NKA probably existed in a relatively small degree in the
Cotton Garment Industry. The U. S. Census oi Manufactures reported the
same number of Cotton Garment wage earners in 1931 as in the supposedly
normal year 1927, and showed a decline in emplovment of less than 10%
from the boom period oi 1929. Technological improvements have been
slight in this industry and its products are consumer necessities.
Employment figures .in 1932 or in the first quarter of 1933 at the
bottom of the depression are not available from Government sources.
Table 3 summarizes wage,, hour, and employment changes by occupa-
tions and Cnart 5 pictures a small decline in numDer of operators and
office employees, a slight gain in cutters, and a sharp advance of
19% in employment of non-manufacturing wage-earners, ^hich increase
will later be snown to be spurious due to erroneous grouping of certain
unclassified manufacturing employees.
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(b) Shorter Hours.
All Cotton Garment workers averaged 41.4 hours per week one year
ago compared to 32,5 hours in February of this year. Chart 6 shows a
marked decrease in hours worked in every single product group. More
significant is the distribution of weekly hours of the 63,000 individual
employees shown in Chart 7. V.hereas 14% of the employees worked above
50 hours a week one year ago and another 38% from 40 to 50 hours in
1933, now only 2% are employed above the 40 hour week maximum and only
35% are working the full 40 hour week permitted by the Code.
weekly hours classified by the different occupations in Chart 8
show as expected that the manufacturing employees (cutters, operators,
and learners) felt the greatest reduction in number of hours worked, "
but even non-manufacturing and office employees averaged several
hours loss per week in 1934,
Comparison of weekly hours in four leading occupations is presented
in Chart 9. Cutters and office employees cling rather closely to the 40
hour week. Non-manufacturing employees mostly between 35 and 48 hours,
while operators as expected, vary widely in the number of hours worked
per week in accordance with slack or active business in the plant,
(c) Higher Earrings Per Hour.
It is a commonplace fact that the increase in hourly earnings of
Cotton Garment workers under the NRA not only excels all otxier industries,
but it is hard to match such a rapid rise in the records of American
business.
Chart 10 shows the substantial gain in hourly earnings of workers,
which occurred in every branch of the Cotton Garment Industry, par-
ticularly in the manufacture of Work Shirts and Work Pants.
Chart 11 present changes in hourly wage rates by occupations.
Although the average for all workers increased from 23p to 2>7<* an
hour, sewing machine operators gained from 20r* to 35^ an hour. Office
and non- manufacturing employees recorded only slight increases,
although the hourly wages of cutters rose 24 an hour,
(d) Weekly Wages.
The weekly pay check has always been the standard gauge of the
workers' satisfaction and as heretofore stated, the Cotton Garment
Industry has contributed to an increase of 28% in weekly ^ages of its
employees. Chart 18 shows that this advance occurred in every product
group in the Cotton Garment Industry. However, this same graph notes
that the advance in weekly wages was particularly due to the gain by
the lowest paid and most populous group - sewing machine operators -
who achieved a rise of 48% in weekly wages. Non-manufacturing and
office employees advanced very slight in weekly wpges, hardly sufficient
to compensate for the rise in living costs, while cutters alone recorded
a slight loss.
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Chart 13 distributes the weekly wages of operators in 672 plants
in jt'eoruai',7, 19o4 showing a strong tendency of uniformity toward the
$10,00 to $12.50 wage class. This makes a better showing than appears
at first sight, considering that operators averaged only 32 hours a
week in February, 1934,
(e) Production.
Re-employment in the Cotton Garment Industry is inseparably related
to increased production of garments. Noting the unparalleled increase
of hourly earnings, a sharp reduction in weekly hours, and a substantial
rise in weekly wages, still no change in employment was recorded in this
same period. Table 4 summarizes production in 300 Cotton Garment plants
for February, 1933 and February, 1934. Although this sample is small, it
is the first monthly production and value survey attempted for all types
of Cotton Garments, as the U. S. Census figures cover only Work Clothing
and Sheep Lined and Leather Garments. The average wholesale price of
all Cotton Garments rose approximately 38$> from February, 1933 to
February, 1934.
Chart 14 notes an increase of only 3.5$ in February, 1934 in dozens
of garments cut over the deep depression period of February, 1933, This
Advance occurred almost entirely in the 7/ork Clothing groups as the
graph notes a sharp decline in Wash Dress production and in several less
important products as Blouses, Pajamas, and Nurses and Maids' Uniforms.
Chart 15 pictures composite changes in production, shipments and value
of 52 manufacturers of Men's Tress Shirts.
Table 5 compares monthly changes in production and average value
of Cotton Garments in 226 plants for February, July, and December, 1933
and January and February, 1934. December is chosen as the oase month,
since it was the first month under the Code. The July figures note the
peak of production in the period just before the commencement of the
NBA in order to speed up production at the lower costs then prevailing.
The volume of production has risen from the four types of garments
listed in Chart 16 and for all products as well from December to February,
since the Code went into operation. The graph likewise shows that while
average value of each of these products was considerably higher in .
February, 1934 than a year ago, nevertheless, for all garments, except
\«ash Dresses, the overage value per dozen has declined from December,
1933 to February, 1934. During the first three months' operation of the
Code, the average wholesale price of Cotton Garments has declined 7fo»
The true relationship between sales value and earnings .of labor
is presented in Chart 17. In no product did employment increase with-
out expansion of roroduction. It is also significant that the sharp
increase in wages in Work 'Shirt and Pants (mostly V.ork Pants) factories
did not deter the marked advance in production of these garments. The
hourly earnings of labor for every product increased at a greater rate
than the wholesale price in these 2S6 plants. The intimate dependence
of employment on production can be further observed in Chart 18, where
a rise in employment occurred, in each particular product in the first
three months under the Code from December to February following to a
lesser extent the advance in production.
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The heart 01 the re- employment problem simply is - can results
be achieved by shortening Lours or by increasing production? Chart 19
plainly shows that while average hours worked fell almost uniformly
for every one of the eight products listed, on the other hand, employ-
ment and production moved in the same direction for six of these
products and in no subidivision of the Cotton Garment Industry did
employment rise witnout an increase in production. The reason why
the great increase in labor costs and crice rise have no deterred the
production of Overalls, Work Fants, and Work Shirts can probably be
explained that those are idoot man's garments, which group of people
has benefited most by increased purchasing power under the IOA. This
is especially significant in vie^ of a decline of 4$ in the production
of all Cotton Garments, excluding Work Clothing, and a corresponding
decrease in employment of 7y for the combined total of the Shirt, Blouse,
Pajama, Sheep Lined and Leather and Wash Dress Industries.
(f) Productivity of Workers.
To put three simple facts together, since production and employment
remained almost the same as a ye^r ago, ^hile weekly hours of wage
earners declined about 28r«, why were not more jobs automatically created
by the shorter working week? A plausible answer fortified by statistical
evidence, is the record of Z7e/o increase in efficiency of operators
depicted in Chart £0, so that the same number of garments could be pro-
duced in the much shorter working week. This marked increase in the
productivity of operators corresponding to the increase in hourly earnings
aoove a year ago, can be due to several other factors beside the
natural stimulation of employees by a higher wage ; second, manufacturers
were compelled to reduce the amount of idle time in which seriiig machine
operators waited for bundles of cut goods; third, more efficient methods
of plant operation were installed; fourth ODsolescent machines have
been renovated; fifth, slow workers were replaced by efficient operators
able to earn the Code wage scale.
Chart 21 shows that the majority in a sample of £30 plants submitting
reasonably correct information succeeded in increasing the productivity
of their onerators in the past year by more than 50c/o. To a lesser degree,
productivity of cutters increased in response to higher hourly wage
rates as shown bv the lbfo advance in garments cut per hour in Chart 2?.
However, cutters were far more highly paid and also more efficient than
operators one year ago, so their productivity could not be increased to
the same extent and the result was a small gain of 5;a in the number of
cutters employed. The clue to the problem of re-employment and the
shorter working '"eek in the Cotton Garment Industry is the marked gain
in number of garments produced per hour, particularly by operators and
also bv cutters, advancing in about the same percentage as the working
hours per week declined,
(g) Flants Vorking Maximum Hours Before the Code,
of the 672 plants reporting pre-code data in 1955, over one-fourth of
these plants averaged above 40 hours per week in that month. Since these
concerns are now obeying the Code, one might expect that an increase in
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employment would occur in these particular plants. However, Chart 23
demonstrates that 174 plants working from 41 to 60 hours per week one
year ago averaged declines of 9-> in employment in February, 1934
compared with the same month last year, while 508 plants working 40
hours or less per week a year ago have now advanced 36,o in number of
employees.
A more detailed analysis in Chart 24 demonstrates that plants
working the longest hjurs were also paying the lowest wages. The
factories working over 50 hours a week a year ago paid their operators
only 16^ per hour, the 45 to 50 hoxir group paid operators 16^ per
h?ur, 40 to 45 hour group paid operators 20A, whereas plants working
40 hours or less per week in February 1933, paid their operators
22f£ per hour. At that time, these manufacturers working maximum
hours and paying minimum wages one year ago were required tu increase
their payrolls the most under the Code, sj in order to remain in
business, theywere compelled to increase the efiiciency of plant
operators to such an extent that a loss in employment was unavoidable.
The graph readily shows that productivity and' earnings rose
together, while employment and hours fell simultaneously, so that
the extreme group jf 25 plants working above 50 hours one year ago and
paying only 16^ an hour to operators, actually recorded an increase
in productivity of 75$ and a decline in employment of 16$.
To recapitulate on the 40 hour week and re- employment, a slight
percentage reduction in the number of hours per week does not auto-
matically create the same percentage increase in the number of Cotton
Garment workers employed, because three factors, volume of production,
higher wages, and corresponding greater productivity of employees,
enter into the results.
Increased employment occurred only in those oranches of the
industry favored by an expansion of production. Total volume of Cotton
Garments produced in February, 1934 rose only 4c/o above the same month
in the last year and the marked reduction jf 2870 in average hours worked,
"'as of no avail in increasing employment. While the earnings of labor
rose sharply, productivity of workers stimulated by higner pay advanced
37% cancelling" entirely the intended, effect of the shorter working week.
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2. "Ascertain whether the 40 hour week Frovision of this article as to
Cutters unduly handicaps factory operations and whether or not
overtime should he recommended as to Cutters" - Article III (a).
The cutter of garments provides work for 27 other em-oloyees. He is
the power valve on whose efforts operators depend for work or else must
wait for the next "bundle of cut garments to be delivered. Thus, if the
40 hour week succeeds in employing a few more cutters, hut paralyzes the
work of other manufacturing employees, it lies missed its aim.
Chart 25 presents the distribution of hours worked hy cutters in
405 plants in February, 1934 showing 51 c/0 of the plants clustered about
the 40 hour week average, while 10$ of the plants exceeded the maximum.
The average hours worked by cutters and operators under the first four
months of the Code follows:
CUTTER
OPERATOR
December,
January,
February,
Llarch-
1933
1934
1934
1954
32.5 hours
36.8 "
36.4 "
37. S "
28.0 hours
31.5 "
32.0 «
37.2 ■
Hours for cutters in February, 1934 averaged 36.4 compared with 44*3
hours per week one year ago.
Chart 9 earlier compared weekly hours of cutters with other employees
showing a distinct tendency for cutters to work a uniform 40 hour week as
do office employees and not a varying number of hours more or less, such
as operators and non-manufacturing employees. Since a considerable number
of cutters are paid on a weekly basis, their work is more regularized from
month to month than other manufacturing employees paid an hourly rate*
Hence, the difference between operators and cutters in a slack month like
December fades in a busy month such as March, Of 61 requests for
exceptions by manufacturers to the 40 hour week, only 16 such referred
specifically to cutters.
The heart of the matter as to permission for overtime to cutters simply
is - what hours will cutters be required to work when operators are employed
nearly 40 hours a week? Of 672 plants studies in February, 1934, approxi-
mately one-iourth, or 173, averaged above 35 hours p. week for operators.
Hours for cutters in these same 173. plants are shown in Chart 26, TTherea.s
cutters averaged 36 hours per week in all plants, in these busiest plants
cutters worked only 38 hours per week. The differential between cutter
hours and operator hours sharply diminishes when the latter are fully
occupied, probably due to the greater regularity of a substantial number
of plants in working cutters 40 hours per week, both in dull and active
seasons,
3, "Result of the tfoximum Hours in the Sneep Lined and Leather Garment
Industry" - Article III (b).
A ;lance at Chart 27 readily aroves that the four winter months are
the least fair period to test results in the Sheep Lined and Leather Garment
Industry* Although production of Sheep Lined and Leather Garments rose to
the highest level in February and March in many years for the same months,
-li-
ne verthe less, the volume of manufactures in the winter months is normally
less than one-third as great as in the Autumn*
Even though the majority of Sheep Lined and Leather Garment manufact-
urers also produce other Cotton Garments, Chart 28 particularly contrasts
their wage ra'i;es and average value of products. When the sharp seasonal
nature of the Sheep Lined and Leather Garment Industry is added, a clear
introduction is available as to the marked difference in its nroblem from
the rest of the Cotton Garment Industry. Average hours of operators
compared as follows for Sheep Lined and Leather Garments and Cotton
Garments.
Feb. 1953 Dec. 1933 Jan. 1934 Feb. 1951
Sheep Lined and Leather 17.7 21.7 15.7 20.3
Cotton Garments 38.3 27.9 29.5 32.0
Although hours of other workers, particularly non-manufacturing and
office employees tend to be longer than operator hours during the slack
months, nevertheless Chart 29 demonstrated that more than two-thirds of
Sheep Lined and Leather Garment workers have teen employed less than the
maximum 40 hour week from December to March. The contrary situation pre-
vails in the rush season according to replies to a questionnaire of the
National Association of Sheep Lined and Leather Garment Manufacturers, as
38 among 45 producers stated they were unable to secure sufficient trained
workers during the peak, months.
The real oo-ordination of production and employment in 24 plants fabri-
cating Sheep Lined and Leather garments exclusively is presented in Chart 30.
Employment of operators neither rose nor fell to the extent of fluctuations
in production during these five months selected principally due to changes
in hours worked per week.
Thus, the 40 hour week is almost meaningless during these early montbe
under the Code, since most Sheep Lined and Leather garment machines are nor-
mally idle in this season. The true test of re-employm;:nt will occur in the
busy Autumn months ahead, but any fair adjustment of the working hours per
week must recognize this sharply seasonal nature of the Sheep Lined and
Leather Garment industry. Both the manufacturer and the worker must fits©
the fact that nature dictates the time for wearing winter clothing. A
rational adjustment between production and employment in Sheep Lined and
Leather garments appears to depend on a flexible number of hours Der week
to help stabilize work throughout the year.
4. "Recommendation as to hours for all Non-Manufacturing Employees
(except Office Employees)" - Article III (d).
Some non-manufacturing employees, as watchmen, sweepers, and shipping
employees, have been accustomed for years to work on a 56, 60 or even 72 hour
week. However, the average work week for non-manufacturing employees was
45.3 hours in February, 1933 and 40.2 hours in February, 1934. The reason
for the drop is not clear, unless it be due to greater efficiency in plant
management, since there was no maximum L;o'imt regulation under the Code and
shipments of garments rose 22^5 aboije a yt-ar ago. Chart 9 compared hours
of non-manufacturing employees with hours for other occupations. The
9799
-12-
distribution of non-manufacturing employees by hours worked for the slack
month of December and the somewhat more active month of February folio* -s:
Under 20-29 30-39 Over
20 Hours Hours Hour 3 40 Hours 40 Hours
December, 1933 8$ 8$ 16$ 55$ 13$
February, 1934 3' 7 34 35 21
Chart 51 demonstrates that the large majority of plants have succeeded
in regulating hours of non-manufacturing employees to suit the 40 hour week
required for other workers. However, there was s startling advance of 19$
in the number of n on- manufacturing employees in February, 1934 over one year
ago contrasted to no change in employment for all occupations among the
entire sample of 672 plants. This increase occurred almost entirely in the
Work Clothing and Work Shirt groups and particularly in nine large plants
where the number of non-manufacturing employees more than doubled by rising
from 163 to 359. Some increase was to be expected in non-manufacturing
employees due to the rise of 41$ in shipments of Tifork Clothes and 66$ in
shipments of TJbrk Shirts above a year ago as presented earlier in Table 4.
However, these same nine plants reported a decline from 426 to 302 in the
combined number of trimmers, examiners, and unclassified manufacturing
employees. Although the facts indicate these few concerns are circumventing
the maximum 40 hour week limitation in the Code, this practice is confined
to a small minority of plants.
The principal interest is the probable hours for non-manufacturiii ;
emplojrecs during the rush season, when sewing machine operators approximate
40 hours per week. Of 600 reporting plants, in 173 or over one-fourth of
the total, operators worked longer than 35 hours a week in February, 1934,
In Chart 26, earlier presented, the same analysis was applied to cutters,
while non— manufacturing employees in all reporting concerns averaged 40 .' •'
hours per week in February, 1934, in these most active plants, the average
weekly hours of non-manufacturing employees were 'likewise 40,
5. "Determine whether or not the provisions of Section C (as to Learners)
shall be changed" - Article IV (d).
Every year the Cotton Garment Industry roust train many thousands of
beginners to operate sewing machines, largely to replace girls leaving
factories for married life. Since 95$ of operators are women and half of
these are less than 25 years of age, the turnover in employment must be
among the highest in major industries,
A summary of 300 replies by producers to a questionnaire of the
International Association of Garment Manufacturers elicited the fact that
21$ of factory operatives work less than one year with the same employer,
while the average length of service is only four years. Even though these
same operators may continue in the Cotton Garment Industry at some other
factory, nevertheless, it is at conservative estimate that 25,000 employees
among the total 200,000 must be annually replaced. Learners are the source
of ne-sv blood for the industry, the -primary channel through which any
program of reemployment in the Cotton Garment Industry must flov.
9799
-13-
3y permitting plants to employ 10$ of their entire number of
workers as learners and to train a new group of learners every six
weeks, the Code theoretically allows replacement of the entire Cotton
Garmen personnel within a year. However, manufacturers mu@t train
learners in the busy seasons, not during any average month, so three
vital questions arise.
1. Is a learner sufficiently productive to he worth three-fourths
of the minimum wage?
2. Docs the lCfo learner quota hamper plant operations during the
busy months of the year?
3. Can the average learner be trained within six weeks?
It is significant that among 313 concerns, which have officially
petitioned from December to May for exemptions from some provisions
of the Cotton Garment Code, 143 or almost half of such requests, con-
cerned learners. This number is not only more than one-third of the
total petitions, but is more than double that of the next most pro-
vocative clause, the minimum wage. Of these 148 requests,
27 applied for a lower wage to learners,
102 petitioned for a higher percent of learners,
19 requested a longer learning period.
(a) Wage Rate.
Chart 32 shows that learners in February averaged 24^ an hour
compared to 36<fi for regular operators and worked 30 hours per week con-
trasted to 32 hours for operators. Last year learners averaged 40
hours a week compared to 58 for regular operators. Although learners
are being paid pretty close to the rate of three-fourths of the mini-
mum allowed, one year ago learner— operators averaged only 10^ an hour,
so have gained by far the most in earnings of any group under the Code.
The substance of the matter indicates that the minimum hourly wage
rate for learners is also the average rate, and this figure is more
than double their wage a year ago. Perhaps this high rate for learners
accounts for their much sharper decline in weekly hours worked than
operators during the past year.
(b) Number Permitted.
As to the second main question aroused by the Code concerning
learners, in the slack month of December only 3$ of the total number of
operators were learners, whereas in the relatively more active month
of February, learners constituted 5$ of all operators. However, the
real problem can be gleaned from Chart 33, which indicates the pro-
portion of learners for the busiest third of all plants, in which
operators averaged about 25 hours a week. In these factories, more
active than the average, 8$ of the total operators are learners.
Chart 34 distributes 489 plants by the proportion of learner
operators they employ. While 293 plants report no learners, 51 plants
9799
-14-
or about one-tenth of the total reporting, employ over l&fo of their
total operators as learners. Such a condition indicates that in
busier months than February, when average working hours approach 40,
the need to give employment to a greater number of learners than
permitted at present by the Code may be urgent. Finally, a sample of
only 50 identical plants which reported learner operators both in
February, 1933 and in February, 1934, registered a decline of 45% in
the number of learners employed.
(c) Six Week Period
The third controversial issue is the period needed to train a
learner to become a regular sewing machine operator. A questionnaire
submitted to all members of the International Association of Garment
Manufacturers in February evoked replies to this question from 271
manufacturers. Eighteen weeks was the average estimated time to train
a learner.
Chart 35 is a frequency distribution on the learning period re-
quired in each of these 271 plants.' The mode appears to be around the
four month period. Eleven per cent of these Concerns even estimated
that over six months is required, while only 13$ of these manufacturers
replied that learners can be trained within the six week period allowed
by the Code.
The three regulations on learners have not only aroused more pe-
titions for exemptions than airy other Code provision, but appear from
results in a limited sample of several hundred plants to be defeating
the objective of reemployment. The minimum wage for learners has be-
come the average, unlike the situation in any other occupational group;
the proportion of learners has sharply declined from a. year ago; while
the learning period is very widely considered as too short to train
beginners. Unfortunately, these provisions have restricted the free
flow of recruits so essential to rejuvenate the personnel in this
industry which loses tens of thousands of its workers yearly.
6. "Report as to the effect of the operation of this provision (as
to incapacitated employees) both generally and in cases of in-
dividual hardship»Articlc IV (f).
The Cotton Garment Industry normally furnishes a livelihood for
ten thousand handicapped workers. Older women and younger ones af-
flicted by physical defects have for years earned a living at sewing
machines. It is to the great credit of Cotton Garment Manufacturers
that privileged employees as shown in Chart 32 average approximately
three-fourths of the minimum hourly wage rate and are working 31 hours
per week compared to 32 hours for regular operators. Of 318 exceptions
to the Code requested between December and May, only sixteen such
petitions by manufacturers concerned privileged employees.
Five per cent of a.ll operators were privileged in February, 1934.
Even among the third of the plants which averaged longer than 35 hours
per week, Chart 33 shows that privileged operators constituted only
&p of the total number, thus indicating no attempt by the busy plants
9799
-15-
on the whole to take advantage of the privileged classification.
Chart 34 distributes the number of privileged operators among
489 plants. The majority of plants report no privileged operators,
while on the other hand, 73 concerns or 15$ of the total average above
1(7'; of all operators as privileged. Host of these plants are not
violating the Code, since a concern may "employ one-tenth of all its
workers as privileged, not merely lOo of the operators, who generally
make up the bulk of the handicapped class.
As the privileged workers constitute only 3?o of the entire in-
dustry and are being paid three-fourths of the minimum wage, this pro-
vision in the Code permitting such handicapped workers to earn their
livelihood appears to have operated thus far with minor difficulties.
7. "The effect of the operation of Section (g) on Northern and ,
Southern Differentials" - Article IV (h).
(a) Disparity in Waie Rates.
The fears of Southern manufacturers that a revolutionary $12.00
a week minimum wage would bring ruin upon them have oroved groundless
under the operation of the Code. Chart 36 gives a composite picture
of wages, hours, earnings, and employment in the North and South and
most significant is the 4$ decline in employment in Northern factories
contrasted to a 14$ increase in the South from February, 1933 to
February, 1934. Although a part of this substantial gain in the
South was due to the abolition of prison labor by two large plants,
nevertheless, if this factor were eliminated, the net increase in the
number of Southern workers would be 6$ contrasted to a decline of 3p
in the Forth. Southern manufacturers have been compelled to increase
hourly wages much more substantially under the Code than Northern pro-
ducers, as shown in the following table:
Feb. 1333 Dec. 1933 Jan. 1934 Feb. 1934 March 34. 1934
North 24^ 39{* 40^ 39$£ 37{*
South 19^ 33^ 3'5<p 32<* 31 <*
Chart 37 compares products and occupations by Forth and South,
noting that the margin between wage's in these two sections is at least
double the 8$ differential 'permitted by the Code in every group. Half
of. the 64 plants requesting exceptions to the Code minimum wage are
Southern concerns.
The variation in hourly wage rates of sewing machine operators by
States is presented in the map, Chart 33. In only one Southern state,
average hourly wages rose above 35^ an hour, while only three Northern
states reported average wages below that figure. Wages 3f operators
only were selected because any other comparisons might be unfavorable
to the South, due to the prevalence of cutters and office employees in
the North. Another factor which generally biases Northern wages up-
wards, is the location of most large cities in Northern states.
9799
-16-
Table 6 classifies the hourly earnings 01 operators in February,
1934 by Forth and South in to- ns of the same population. Even when
communities of similar size are chosen, Northern '"orders are still
paid 15 to 20'y higher hourly earrings. A final comparison between
Northern and Southern -ages is shown in Chart 39, namely, hourly rates
for sewing machine operators in Doth Northern and. Southern nlants '-'hich
are owned by the same concerns. Even the identity of ownership of
plants still leaves a difference of 3^ per hour in favor of the Northern
,:rorker.
(b) Living Costs.
Although Southern factories have gained in employment despite the
necessity of a more marked, rise in rages, two general principles have
been strenuously advocated, bv Southern -producers in favor of the lower
wage. x<ir£t, the declaration is ireruently made that living costs are
lower m the South. Any apparent ciiferential ir. living costs can
generally be ascribed to the location of certain metropolitan cities
'in tne Forth and the prevalence oi negroes in tne South. Obviously,
living costs are higher in a white family in Fhiladelrnia, than for
the negro worker in rural Alabama, Hoy ever, this is no criterion of
living costs for Cotton 5t inent employees. Less than 5;o of sewing
machiner operators in either Forth or South are negroes, so wage
standards in this industry need not be clouded Dy the color cuestion.
Two graphs are presented based on United States Census material
shoving that rents of white families and retail wages oi white workers
prior to the depression were almost tne same in both the Forth and.
South, where com -rarities ox similar size were chosen for comparison.
Chart 40 shows the very slight ciiference in rents of -hite lamilies
between Forth and South in each ^.toup of cities of tne sane ^o-oulation.
hile retail wpr;es '"ere lb* lo'"er in the South in 1929, as shown in
Chart <±1 , after negro 'orke:r? were eliminated arc co i: rarities of ap-
proximately the same population selected, then tne actual difference
between Northern and Southern retail wages disappeared entirely. only
the inclusion o.f metropolitan cities of over half a million neople bias
I orthern '"ages upward and tat prevalence oi negroes in the South sharnlv
reduces wppe r»tes there. These to granhs on rents and retail "?P^es
simply show that tne popular version oi lc-er costs and ttand'rds of
living belo"' the r;af;on-Di:vOn lire, or tne 3: th parallel, is largely a.
cuestion of the color line and ••■ small to'-n - lar.^e city problem. The
former condition is of minor consequence to the Cotton Garment Industry
'■hile the ur oar-ru: al situation is not confined to Forth and south.
(c) Gain in Productivity of Southern ' orkers.
A second frtnaent objection of the oouthern manufacturer is that
their -orkers are much less productive, altnou h such facts lor any one
period arc- difficult to measure. r>e?;arr'less of tne eificiency of the
underpaid worker in the oast, there is no doubt that productivity of
southern employees has increased much more rnarply t.nan Northern workers
as sho'"n in Chart 4?. 'hereas the seeing machint operator in Northern
plants registered an increase of 2i',.-> in the number of garments made per
hour from February, ly33 to February, 1934, the SOvtnern vorker has re-
corded a gain of 68f,o in productivity under the Cede.
-17-
The warmly disputed North-South problem has had none of the
tragic consequences so ill-foreboded almost a year ago. Although
Southern workers are still paid almost 20$ less than in the ITorth, . 'J.\
Southern factories increased wages by a more substantial margin and
havo gained in employment. She Southern garment worker located in
towns of the same size as in the Forth, has no particular advantage
in living costs and Southern operators have recorded an unusual gain
in -productivity.
9799
-18-
8. "The effect of the minimum wage scale of this Article and other
economic factors upon 'the sale price of Work Clothing and Work
Shirts" - Article 17 (j).
a. Prices and Wages.
At the commencement of the IT.H.A. producers of Work Clothing and
Work Shirts feared that their business would he jeopardized by the high
wage scale for their workers, However, it appears that these manufactur-
ers have "been helped by the 1T.R.A. with its improvement in purchasing-
power for other wage-earners and also by the betterment in the farmer's
lot due partly to A. A. A. Overalls and Work Shirts have a very high pro-
portion of labor cost to the value added by manufacture. Since the con-
sumers of Overalls, Pants, and Work Shirts are the laboring men and farmers,
who -/eight costs in terms of nickels and dimes for their clothing expenses,
this section of the Cotton Garment Industry took a considerable risk as
to its economic welfare under the Code. However, results have been sur-
prising because Work Clothing production advanced 20£> and Work Shirts rose
6$ in February, 1934, above the sane month one year ago compared to a
decline of 4fs for all other Cotton Garments. Table 7 is a summary of
principal changes in the Work Clothing and Work Shirt industries in the
past year.
The increases in hourly earnings of Work Clothing and Work Shirt
laborers have been very substantial, rising from 23f to 36^ per hour in
Overall factories and from 18(* to 34v- -aer hour in Work Shirt plants.
Employment gains have also been recorded by Work Shirt producers.
The prices of Overalls and Work Shirts listed by the United States
Bureau of Labor Statistics s.re too high to be representative of the in-
dustry as a whole. The U. S. Bureau of Labor Statistics index of Overall
prices was $12,99 per dozen in June, 1933, prior to the IT.R.A. and $16.66
in February, 1934. The average price reported by manufacturers to the
Cotton Garment Code Authority was only $11.40 in February, 1934. Like-
wise the Code Authority figure for Work Shirts was $6.09 per dozen in this
month contrasted to $8.58 according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics.
The price of Work Clothing rose 42$, Work Shirts 44^ from February, 1933
to Februar;/, 1934, as reported oi' 214 producers of Work Clothing and 47
manufacturers of Work Shirts. This compares with an increa.se in price of
38fo for the rest of the Cotton Garment Industry. However, Wash Dresses
gained 58-^ in price during this same period. It is also significant that
Work Clothing prices have declined approximately 5$ from December, 1933
to February, 1934.
However, the limited number of firms reporting to the Bureau of Labor
Statistics have always been consistently higher than the average of the
industry as a whole. For example, the U. S. Census of Manufactures em-
bracing virtually all producers of Work Clothing and Work Shirts, recorded
prices 41$ lower for Work Clothing and 36$ lower for Work Shirts in the
year 1931, than the prices of the Bureau of Labor Statistics.
Chart 43 shows changes in the price and costs of Overalls as reported
by 17 producers to the International Asrociation of Garment Manufacturers.
Their figures show ar. increase of material costs much greater than labor
9799
-19-
costs fron February, 1933 to February, 1934 and even wholesale prices
rose to a higher degree than did labor costs in the same year. Chart 44
shows- the -relative -oroportion of la'bor, material, and overhead costs wliicl
make up the wholesale price of Overalls, and also notes the much greater
increase in material costs than in other factors from ITebruary, 1933 to
February, 1934.
b. Productivity,
A very vital factor pernitting the manufacturers of Uorh Clothing
and Work Shirts to sell more garments despite a great advance in hourly
wages has been the marked increase in the productivit;r of workers corres-
ponding to a higher wage.
Chart 45 demonstrates the increase in the number of garments made
per operator hours in 76 Work Clothing plants, more than compensating for
the decline in weekly hours and offsetting to a great extent the increase
in hourly wages.
c. Production and Shipments.
According to the monthly census reports, the production of Work
Clothing. increased each year in the depression after 1930. Daring hard
times, many individuals wear Uorl; Clothing for dress uses and since the
modest business revival of the last year has been marked by a sharp
advance in retail prices of clothing, no doubt many consumers have con-
tinued to purchase Uorl: Clothing.
The 1TA has benefitted unskilled labor in many fields of manufacture
although to a lesser extent than in the Cotton Garment Industry. These
customers for Work Clothing and Work Shirts, although the poorest classes
economi call;'-, received an increase in wages more than enough to offset
the sharp advance in Work Clothing prices caused partly by higher labor
costs.
Although hourly wages rose very substantially in Work Clothing and
Work Shirt plants, the advance in material costs and the rise of 42^ in
wholesale price more than offset the higher labor costs. Production of
Work Clothing and Work Shirts advanced sharply due partly to increased
productivit:r of workers, but largely to the enhanced economic welfare of
the customers of these garments.
9799
Weekly Wage
$23.82
$21.03
Hourly Earnings
.54
.65
Wee] civ Hours
44.3
32.6
-20-
"Investigate the wage scale for Cutters, to determine whether the
wages paid said cutters tend to effectuate the purposes of the
National Industrial Recovery Act" - Article IV (L).
Feb. 1933 Dec. 1953 Jan. 1931 Feb. 1934 Marchl954
$23.76 $22.64 $24.67
.65 .62 .64
36.8 36.5 37.8
The Cutter has "been the aristocrat of labor in the Cotton Garment
Industry as 90$ of the cutters were paid above the present minimum wage in
the depth of the depression in February, 1934. Thus cutters, as a group,
have been affected only ~oy the maximum 40 hour week stipulation in the Code.
The figures listed above tell briefly the whole matter. Cutters have
gained in hourly earnings, but lost in weekly wages. Lower pay checks dur-
ing a period of rising 1 iving costs have been only partial!;' offset by an
increase of 3fo in the number of cutters employed between February, 1933
and February, 1934.
(a) Hourly Earnings.
Wage rates paid to substantial groups of cutters vary all the way
from the Code minimum to $1025 per hour and higher, contrasted to opera-
tors who cluster very largely in the group ten cents above the minimum
wage. Dae to individual degrees of skill required in cutting higher priced
garments, plant averages en wages paid cutters may conceal these wide
differences. Therefore, Table 8 records the hourly earnings of each of
2,460 cutters instead of being based on plant averages. The difficulty
of generalizing on so-called average wage rates to cutters is readiljr
seen in this table and in Chart 46, since no ten cent wage class even
includes one— fifth of the cutters. Hourly earnings of cutters based on
plant averages are presented in Chart 47.
The average wage of 64^- an hour is widely diverged from in that cut-
ters of Work Shirts, Pants, and Women's Undergarments are paid less than
55^, whereas cutters of Shirts, Blouses, Oiled Cotton Garments, and Maids1
Uniforms average above 73(# per hour. Work Clothing and Wash Dress cutters
receive pretty close to the average for the entire industry, while the
cutters of Sheep Lined and Leather Garments are excluded from the totals,
since they are protected by a 75;* wage scale in the Code.
The selection of an average wage rate for Cutters is further complicat-
ed by a marked difference between an average Northern rate of 67^ per hour
contrasted to 51r< in the South. Chart 48 shows that Southern cutters aver-
aged approximately 20fo lower earnings in almost every product group; how-
ever, northern wage rates are partly biased upward oy the inclusion of 249
New York City cutters, averaging 79/' an hour. It was previously noted
that while several other apparel industries are concentrated in New York
City, only Zfo of all Cotton Garment workers are employed there. However,
many manufacturers have garments cut in New York City, while sewing is
done at some small town factor"'-. Consequently, 10$ of the cutters are
located in New York City. If these cutters are excluded from the Northern
totals, then the average in Northern states falls from 67rf to 64^ per hour,
9799
-21-
(b) Weekly Wages.
Table 9 distributes in detail the weekly wages of cutters in
March, and Chart 49 pictures the -proportion of cutters in each $10.00
wage class. Although the average weekly '"age is $24.67 only about
one-third of the cutters fall within the R20.00 to $30.00 a week
group, again errohasizing the wide variations in weekly wages. Chart
50 by -plotting wages of cutters on the basis of plant averages rather
than individual cutters' wages, conceals rmrt of this large s-oread.
Chart 51 contrasts wages of cutters in the Worth and South,
noting Soutnern wages are lower in most -oroducts, but the difference
is not so marked as in hourly earnings since cxitters in the South
average longer hours. More significant is the decline in weekly
wages paid to cutters from February, 1937' to February, 1934, noted
in Chart 53. This dron was due largely to the reduced weekly hours
of Wash Dress cutters on account of decreased nroduction of this
garment.
Chart 53 pictures the marked difference in both hourly earnings
and weekly wages of cutters in the North, South, and Hew York City.
Due to these very wide variations in hourly earnings among individuals
by -oroduct grouns and between localities, it aiyoears of very doubtful
value to consider a single average wage rate for cutters.
One of the -primary purposes of the HRA is to increase -purchasing
-power and cutters have a much more -personal interest in the size of
their weekly nay checks in a -period of rising -prices than in balancing
wage rates against reduced hours.
To summarize in a few words:
1. Hourly earnings of cutters vary too widely by locality, by
■product, and -particularly by individual skill to substantiate a
uniform national wage rate.
2. Weekly pay checks of cutters fell 5*5 from February, 1933 to
February, 1934, despite a rise in hourly earnings and because of the
shorter working week. This reduction in -purchasing -power has been
only partially offset by an increase of 3% in the number of cutters
employed.
9799
-22-
10. "Differentials in wages paid to other employees receiving *.bove the
minimum to determine whether such differentials permit -unfair com-
petition in the Cotton Garment Industry" - Article IV (L).
(a) Operators
Since over two-thirds of oil Cotton Garment workers and the great bulk
of sewing machine operators received less than the present minimum wage
one year ago, the pecuniary welfare of the skilled employee can be easily
lost sight of by simply referring to a 28fa average rise in weekly pay
checks of all employees.
Operator:' comprise about two- thirds of all workers and are the lowest
paid group. The minimum wage is by no means the average nor the maximum
in t e vast majority of plants as readily shown in Chart,. 54 for February
1934. Although the graph indicates that violations are more frequent in
the North, 25$ of the plants reported averages above 4Q<f; per hours' for
sewing machine operators in the North, contrasted to only 3p of the plant
averages above 40^ in the South. Furthermore, in the South, no plants
average above i?0f-( on hour for operators. There is thus a tendency for
employees in the South to cluster rather closely to the minimum, while
in the North the piece rate basis still measures a marked variety in skill
of workers.
Since even for the lowest paid occupation, operators, the minimum
wage has not become a national leveling standard, the real interest lives
in the effect on the weekly wages of that minority of skilled employees
who were paid above $13.00 per week a year ago in February, 1933.
Table 10 presents complete figures on changes in weekly wages and
hourly earnings of skilled employees.
Chert 55 readily shows that operators, who were paid from $13.00
to $15.00 per week (or $12.00 to $15.00 per week in the South) one year
ago have gained very slightly in weekly wages, not sufficiently to
compensate for the rise in living costs. Operators paid $15.00 and over
one year ago have sustained a sharp reduction in their weekly pay checks.
These conditions are due entirely to a decline in weekly hours and occured
despite a rise in hourly earnings. Wheras only 10$ of the operators did
not need Code protection, 90$ of the cutters were unaffected by a. minimum
wage.
( b) Cutterr:.
Chart 36 represents changes in wages, hours, and earnings of cutters
from 1933 to 1334. It is readily observed that cutters paid from $13.00
to $20.00 a week succeeded in increasing their weekly pay checks, whereas al
groups of cutters averaging above $20.00 a week one year ago have suffered
financially Cv.c to the 40 hour week and in spite of Boosts in their hourly
rates of pay*
(c) Non-Manufi cturing and Offid Emplo < s.
Charts C7 and 58 analyze the same materials for non-manufacturing and
-23-
office employees. Likewise, workers in the se two groups paid between
$13.00 and : 20.00 per week have enlarged the contents of their pry en-
velope, but non-manufacturing employees receiving from $20.00 to #35.00
per week one year ago have suffered reductions in weekly wages, some-
what dissimilar from the case of skilled operators and cutters. Reduc-
tion in wages of non-manufactTU-ing and office employees was partly
due also to a decrease in hourly rates of pay, hut largely was caused
by a decline in the working hours per week. It should not be assumed
that the reduction in the hourly rates of non-manufacturing and office
employees, who were paid from $25.00 to $35.00 a week one year ago, was
due to the necessity of manufacturers to enlarge their payrolls sub-
stantially to meet the minimum wage rates. It is easy to recall that in
the period following the bank holiday in March, 1933, many concerns
throughout the country reduced salaries of skilled, and clerical employ-
ees and a considerable number of such wage cuts have not been restored.
One favorable feature as to the influence of the Cotton Garment
Code on the wages of skilled employees, is that the minimumvage for
sewing machine operators is neither the average nor the maximum, at least
in the vast majority of Northern plants. However, of much greater signi-
ficance in regard to purchasing power, is the boomerang of the 40 hour
week in causing marked reductions in weekly pay checks of operators re-
ceiving above $15.00 per week a year ago and of cutters, non-manufacturing
and office employees formerly paid above $20.00 per week a year ago.
Despite the great wage benefits to the average worker under the
Cotton Garment Code, a valuable minority of skilled employees is losing
economically during a period of rising living costs.
11. "Homework Problem" - Article VII (a)
One of the very few measures of praise that can be allotted to the
pre-code record of the Cotton Garment Industry, is that only about 1 J$
of its 200,000 employees were homeworkers even in July, 1933, prior
to the Code. The plight of the needle and thread homeworker for a century
has been pictured in prose and. poetry as so ghastly that the sweatshop.^
appears humane in comparison. Seme other needle trades have employed
tens of thousands of homeworkers.
Chart 59 classifies 1,856 homeworkers employed in July by 80 concerns
among 1,500 reporting plants, which sample represents at least three- fourths
of the total workers in the industry. The same graph also records 1,216
homeworkers in April, 1934, or a decline of more than one- third under the
Code. Hand embroiderers arid collar and cuff turners, both occupations
permitted by the Code, registered declines between July, 1935 and April,
1934. These two classes of homeworkers averaged 27 hours per week and
earned 35^ per hour in December, 1933
Sewing machine operators in homes, prohibited!, by the Code, fell sharp-
ly from 649 to 106. Twenty- three out of 53 concerns dropped sewing
machine homework entirely. One hundred and six sewing machine operators
in hemes although the number might be somewhat increased by non- reporting
firms, is still a small fraction of one percent of the total number of
operators in the industry.
9799
-24-
Homeworkers are markedly older than factory workers as demonstrated
in Chart 60, While the majority of sewing machine operators in factor-
ies are girls less than 25 years old, 80fj of the homeworkers are
from 35 to 65 years of rye.
Chart 61 contrasts the length of service for homev/orkers and
factory workers. Twenty-one percent of the factory operators have
worked for less than a year in the reporting plant, while only 4Jj
of the homev/orkers have heen employed for less than one year.
The principal reason given by manufacturers for the need to employ
homeworkers is that the operator is unable to come to the factory
due to care for children, housework, -physical disability, or old age.
A minor reason is that the plant has insufficient space for machines.
Have these homeworkers or others in their place been given jobs in
factories? The plants abolishing homework under the Code have not in-
creased factory employment due perhaps to the inability to obtain
the same workers, to pay the required wage scale or to install machines
in the plant. However, their production probably was shifted to other
manufacturers who thus increased employment.
The typical homeworker is an older, woman, unable to leave the
household and with a record of several years of service for the
same employer. Less than one per cent of Cotton Garment employees
are had embroiderers and collar and cuff turners, while the number of
sewing machine operators in homes is a negligible fraction.
9799
-25-
SYNCPSIS OF FINDINGS ON TT^ F,LSVF:~ I?TCO'!PL":?T'P PROVISIONS.
!3ased on Reports to the Cotton G? rment Code Authority.
1. Desnite a reduction of 22'^ in average weekly hours worked and a
very slight increase in -production, the net change in enroloyment from
February, 1973 to February, 19T4 is zero. Spurred forward by a rise
from 20<t to 35-* an hour in average earnings of operators, both managers
and workers have increased efficiency, so that the decrease in h^urs
worked has been more than offset by the increase in oroductivity.
2. Cutters averaged only two hours more a week in the most active -plants,
where operators worked above 35 hours, than in all -plants which were
operating on an average of only 32 hours a week.
3. Less than a third of the enrol oyees of the Sheen Lined and Leather
Garment Industry have worked a maximum 40 hour week under the Code,
since the four winter months are completely off season in this industry
and do not represent the average number of oeo-ple employed during the
year. A flexible number of hours per week to fit the peak and. slack
months in production appears to be needed in the Sheen Lined and Leather
Garment Industry to heln stabilize enroloyment.
4. Hours of non-manufacturing enrol oyees nave fallen from 45 to 40 a
week and four-fifths of the individual plants are on a 40 hour basis or
lower. Busy olants now working longer than 35 hours a week for operators,
average only 40 hours a week for non-manufacturing enroloyees, about the
same as plants working operators fewer hours.
5. The three Code reouirements on learners have aroused almost half the
total number of reouests for exceptions: (a) The minimum wage rate for
learners is more than double that a year ago and tends to become the
maximum rate. A sanrole of identical nlants showed a decline of almost
50^ in number of learners from s year ago. (b) Only 5^ of all operators
are learners, but the nrooortion increases sharply ns -nlants become
busier. Also, the percentage is higher in -nlants working regular employ-
ees longer hours. (c) It is the overwhelming concensus of manufacturers'
opinions that six weeks is much too short a training -period. Unfortunate-
ly, the wage rate for learners, the 10^ limitation and the six week
period provision in the Code are cartially defeating the -oumose of re-
employment.
6. Privileged employees constitute only half the -percentage allowed in
the Code and on the average are being paid three-fourths the minimum
wage .
7. The South gained 14S in enroloyment desnite the necessity of raising
wages by a much wider margin from 1933 to 1934 in order to meet the Code
minimum. Wage rates in the South still average almost 20^ lower than
in the North, and there his been a much greater increase in the -productiv-
ity of Southern workers.
9799
-£0-
8. Both the wholesale price and. the material cost of ^ork Clothing have
risen higher than labor cost. The sham advance in wages h-^s not de-
terred a marked extension in production of Work Clothing and ^ork Shirts
and the productivity of the operators has greatly increased.
9. The large majority of Northern employees are paid above the minimum
mte, although there is a tendency in numerous Southern slants for the
minimum to be also the maximum. Higher mid groups of skilled employees
in 1933 have mostly averaged reductions in weekly -"ages in 1934, princip-
ally due to the shorter working week.
10. Increased hourly earnings of cutters have been more than offset by
declines in hours worked, so the weekly wages of cutters have slightly
decreased.
11. ^omeworkers engaged in hand, embroidery and turning collars and cuffs
constitute about l'l of all Cotton Garment employees while seeing machine
operators in the home have been reduced to a neslieible fraction.
9799
-27-
Conclusion
a. Comparisons of 1334 with 1929.
A lone ran0e view of the Cotton Garment Industry is readily
observable in Cliart 62, showing trends in 830 plants iron July,
1929 to March, 1934. Although the employment and hour figures
aro not so significant since different calendar months were reported
for these two periods, nevertheless, the increase in ^ages from 29^
an hour in the halcyon days of 1929 to 35ff an nour under tne Code,
is unmatcher in the annuals of American "business.
Table II is a summary on changes in machine capacity, employ-
ment, and payrolls for these 830 plants which remained in business
throughout the entire degression and Table 12 gives figures for
Larch 24, 1934 on 1,228 plants, one of the largest samples on which
statistical data has ever been mobilized in the Cotton Garment In-
dustry.
Chart 63 pictures the rise in -yu.rchasinto power of Cotton Gar-
ment workers from 1929 to 1934. 'Jeekly ra^cs were the same at both
dates despite a reduction in living costs of 20y? during the depression,
while both weekly and hourly wages in the South have risen to heights
scarcely dreamed of in -Tro-snerous years.
b. Accuracy of Results.
The principal challenge to the accuracy of results in this study
is simply — are the 672 plants reporting for 1933 and 1934 representative
of the entire three thousand plants of the Cotton Garment Industry?
Chart 64 presents the leading wage, hour, and employment comparisons
of the first 319 and the later 333 reporting plants. It is noticeable
that the concerns making earlier reports recorded a slightly better
showing in botn wages and ermloyment. However, the principal compari-
son among the various products between occupations and by North and
South were substantially uniform in both studies. If another 1,000
plants could report 1933 data, the entire picture of the industry
might be slightly changed in a downward direction so far as wages and
employment are concerned but the consistency of results between the
first and second groups of reporting plants is the best proof that this
sample fairly represented the Cotton Garmant Industry.
c. Reemployment.
The labor objectives of the Cotton Garment Code were to create
employment and improve the welfare of workers. It is fortunate that
the latter succeeded insofar as the two -rurooses cros-ed each other's
paths. The Code deliverately -ironosed to reduce drastically prison
labor, child labor, homework, and above all, the legion of sweated,
undemaid workers. To register these big gains within four months,
it was necessary to remove thousands of these substandard workers.
They have been replaced by fewer, but far higher paid and more pro-
ductive wage earners. Surely i"t is no tragedy that concerns operating
9799
-28-
54 hours a week and payinc less tlian 10$! an hour one year ago have
recorded losses in employment. Under 'the necessity of trebling
wages, these plants were compelled to replace obsolescent mach-
ines, sub-marginal workers, and inefficient practices by more
modernized and productive methods of doing business.
This Code is systematically succeedin0 in stamping out the
chiseller, whose only advantage in producing garments was the ability
to undersell a few cents on each dozen garments by forcing wages still
lower.
The wage, hour, child labor, and prison labor provisions
in the Code discouraged types of undesirable employment existing
for many years. The depression gave further opportunity for a
class of sweatshop producers to start factories on a shoe-string
basis in whatever locality a cheap supply of labor was available.
Certainly, the achievement of living wage standards is a greater
goal than the continuation of the type of enroloynent so disgrace-
ful in the past;
The normal method of increasing employment since time immemor-
ial is to expand production. While avera. e hours worked declined
substantially in every product group within the Cotton Garment In-
dustry, employment increased only in those groups where ;orodtiction
expanded. It is folly to assert that production cannot be ex-
panded when it is realized that only three dress shirts even in
1929 were sold for each man and boy above fifteen years of age.
Lost significant is a decline of 4r/> in the total production
of all Cotton Garments exclusive of Work Clothing and Work Shirts
from February, 1933 to 1934, despite the general business revival
in the intervening period. The decline in production of these Cot-
ton Garments, higher -Triced than Work Clothing, indicates a lack
of consumer purchasing power, particularly in middle class groups.
It was noted that the shorter working week lias resulted in hard-
ships to skilled employees not protected by the Cotton Garment Code.
The U. S. Bureau of Labor Statistics notes the same failure of
white collar and skilled workers' wages to rise in practically all
types of business during this period of increased livinb costs.
Thus, reemployment may be somewhat beyond the power of the Cotton
Garment Industry. Ho doubt, it is closely linked to the sales of
clothing by retail strres. With the exception of two months, the
unit volume of department store sales in the last year has been
consistently lower than in the spme months of the previous year.
Despite the failure to achieve reemployment in the Cotton Garment
Industry, the Code may be productive in creating employment in other
industries. The 28p increase in weekly payrolls has given1
a reservoir of purchasing power to many small towns in the South and
Middle West. No doubt the increased volume of sales of chain stores
and mail order houses in such communities can be directly traced to
the wage benefits under the Cotton Garment Code.
9799
-29-
Chart 65 is a "bird's-eye view of the variety of changes set in
motion by the Cotton Garment Cole in payrolls, profit, price, produc-
tion, hours, material costs, productivity, and employment, all of
which play a vital role in the lives of two hundred thousand workers
and a hundred million American consumers of Shirts, Overalls, or
House Presses.
9799
-30-
COTTQH GAPJ.EMT ELfPLCYLCLTT, WAGES, AND HOURS
JULY, 1929 to APRIL, 1935
9799
-31—
APPEHDIX
EXHIBIT A 1/
COTTON GARMENT EMPLOYMENT , WAGES AND HOURS
July 1929 to April 1935
Alfred Cahen, PH. D.
Statistician, Cotton Garment Industry
602 principal companies, including 916 plants, reported 154,927 workers for the
second week in April, with a payroll of $2,107,459 representing approximately
three-fourths of the employment in the Cotton Garment Industry.
1. Employment Index
April 1935
100.0
April 1934
100.2
March 1935
99.2
July 1933
102.2
February 1935
93.5
March 1933
86.7
January 1935
84.0
July 1929
84.8
Chart 1 shows that employment in April 1935 remained almost constant compared
to the preceding month, March 1935, and also compared to the same month one
year agor April 1934, However, the number of Cotton Garment workers in April
1935 exceeds by 18 per cent the July 1929 employment.
2. Weekly Wages
April 1935
$13.52
April 1934
$12.39
March 1935
13.25
July 1933
9.38
February 1935
12.97
March 1933
8.58
January 1935
11.90
July 1929
13.25
During the past year, Cotton Garment weekly wages rose $1.13 per worker over
April 1954, or an increase of 9.2 per cent compared to a rise of 6.1 per cent
in living costs by the index of the National Industrial Conference Board. Week
ly wages advanced in all of the 17 product subdivisions during the past year.
The weekly pay check of the worker is 27 cents higher than in July 1929 pro-
viding employee purchasing power due to a fall of 17 per cent in living costs:.
3 . Weekly Hours
April 1935
32.3
April 1934
33.9
March 1935
31.8
July 1933
45.6
February- 1935
31.1
March 1933
44.4
January 1935
29.6
July 1929
46.7
Despite a 10 loer cent legal reduction in hours from April 1934 to April 1935,
average working hours fell only 4.7 per -cent. 252 of the 602 large companies
were working longer than 36 hours per week in April 1934 and these concerns
would be most directly affected in spreading employment under the 36-hour week.
However, Chart 2 shows that their employment increased only 1,8 per cent though
their average hours declined 11,8 per cent.
1/ This Exhibit is presented as prepared by the Code Authority.
9799 • '
4. North, South, and Border States
In the past year from April 1334 to April 1935, Chart 3 records a slight in-
crease in employment in the Worth, a small decline in the border states of
Maryland, District of Columbia, West Virginia, Kentucky, and Southern Missouri,
and a marked decrease in the southern states. Higher wages in the North cor-
respond to increases in employment, and sections of the country where lower
wages were paid one year ago have now lost in employment.
5. Hourly Earnings
April 1935
March 1935
February 1935
January 1935
41.8 cents
Aoril 1934
36.4 cents
41.7
July 1933
20.5
41.6
March 1933
19.3
40.0
July 1929
23.4
Hourly earnings of labor in the Cctton Garment Industry, excluding Sheep lined
and Leather concerns, remained practically the same as in the preceding month,
but gained 14.8 per cent over the, same month one year ago exceeding the man-
datory 11.1 per cent increase required under the 36-hour week. A very sig-
nificant tendency is shown in Chart 4 that companies paying barely above the
minimum in April 1934 have lost workers, while concerns averaging considerably
above the minimum wage one year ago have now gained in employment. Hourly rat'
of nay increased in all of the 17 product groups between April 1934 and April
1935.
6 . First Three Months Under the 36-Hour Week
February, March and April 1935 under the 36-hour week compared with identical
months one year ago raider the 40-hour week record declines in weekly hours in
all three months considerably less than 10 per cent. Increases in average
hourly earnings in all three months. were greater than 11.1 per cent. No change
in employment were reported in March and April 1935 compared with the same
months one year ago. February 1935 was the only month under the 36-hour week
to record increased employment, namely, 9.5 per cent, over February 1934. Thr
result is not due to spreading work by shorter hours since average working
hours have declined only 3.7 per cent from February 1934 to February 1935. The
expected rise in retail prices of Cotton Garments due to increased labor costs
from 11.1 per cent advance in wages and increased overhead owing to the 36-
hour week did not occur according to price indexes of the National Industrial
Conference Board, the U. S. Bureau of Agricultural Economics, and the Fear-
child Publications. Cost increases under the 36-hour week were compensated by
decline in price of cotton cloth so that the consumer of Cotton Garments has
not experienced rising prices in the past year. Although the 36-hour week
contemplated no change in weekly wages of workers, nevertheless, the past
3 months have all recorded fair increases above one year ago in the weekly pay
checks of Cotton Garment Employees.
Per Cent
change s
Weekly Wage
Weekly Hours
Hourly Earnings
Employment
April to April
1934 1955
+9.2 per cent
-4.7
+14.8
-0.2
Mar ofa to March
1934 1935
+5.8 per cent
-7.6
+14.5
+0.3
Feb. to Feb.
1954 1955 .
+10.6 per cent
-3.7
+14.8
+9.5
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-38-
IEDEX 0? TABLES
Page
Table 1 - Summary of Wages, Hours, and Employment in 672 Cotton
Garment Plants 43
Table 2 - Changes in Hours, 'Wages,' and Employment "for '672 Plants
From February, 1933 to February, 1934 44
Table 3 - Wages-, Hours, and -Employment in .672 , Cotton Garment' Plants
(Excluding Sheep Lined and Leather Wage Data) February,
1933 and February, 1934 45
Table 4 - Production in 300 'plants - February, 1933' and
February, 1934 46
Table 5 - Percentage- Monthly Changes in Garments Cut and Average
Value Reported by 226 Plant's for February', July,
December, 1933 and January, February, 1934 47
Table 6 - Hours", Wage's," Earnings/ and Employment of 25,242 Operators
in 406 Plants February, 1933 and February, 1934. Classi-
fied by Population of Town and by North and South 48
Table 7 - Composite Changes in Work Clothing aild Work Shirt Plants
Prior to and Under the Code 49
Table 8 - Total U. 'S. - Distribution of Hourly Earnings of 2,462
Cutters in 741 Plants March, 1934 50
Table 9 - Total U. S. - Distribution of Weekly Wages of 2,462
Cutters in 741 Plants March, 1934 51
Table 10 -Weekly Wages, Weekly Hours, and Hourly Earnings of
Employees in February, 1934 Who Received Above $13.00
Per Week in February, 1933 52
Table 11- Changes in Machine Capacity, Employment, and Payrolls
in 830 Plants, 1929 - 1933 - 1934 53
Table 12- Machine Capacity, Employment, and Payrolls - Marcn 24, 1934 . . 54
9799
-»39-
INDEX (frff CHARTS
Number Page
1. Cotton Garment Code Authority. Geographic Regions and Dis-
tribution of Plants. May, 1934 55
2. Distribution of Cotton Garment Plants, Number of Employees, and
of Total U.S. Urban Population Classified By Size of City ... 56
: 3. Percentage Distribution of 147,344 Sewing Machines, Ranged Ao-
cording to Size of 1,376 plants 57
4. -Percentage Changes in Number of Employees for 672 Plants.
February, 1933 to February , 1934 58
5. Percentage Changes in Employment in 672 Cotton Garment Plants,
February, 1933 to February, 1934 59
6. Average Weekly Hours in o72 Cotton Garment Plants, February,
1933 and February, 1S34 60
7. Distribution of "". eekly Hours in 672 Cotton Garment plants,
February, 1933 and February, 1934 61
8. Weekly Hours by Occupations in 672 Cotton Garment Plants,
February, 1933 and February, 193** 62
9. Average Weekly Hours Worked by Cutters, Operators, Non-Manufac-
turing, and Office Employees in 672 Plants. February, 1934... 63
10. Average Hourly "age Rates in 672 Cotton Garment Plants,
February, 1933 and February, 1934 64
11. Hourly Wage Rates by Occupations, February, 1933 and February,
.1934, 572 -Plants 65
12. Changes in Weekly Wages by Product and Occupation in 672 Plants,
February , 1933 to February , 1934 66
13. Average Weekly Earnings' of Operators in 672 Plants, February,
1934 67
14. Production of Cotton Garments in 300 Plants, February, 1933 and
February , 1934 68
15. Production, Shipments, and Value Reported by 52 Shirt Plants in
February , 1933 and February , 1934 69
16. Percentage Monthly Changes in Production and Average Value of
Garments in 226 plants. February, July, December, 1933 and
January, February, 1934 Relative to December, 1933 70
17. Percentage Changes in Production, Employment, Hourly Earnings
and Average Value of Garments in 300 Plants. February,
1933 to February, 1934 71
9799
-40-
IEDEX OF CHARTS
Number Page
18. Percentage Changes in Employment and Production for 226 Iden-
tical Plants in the First Three Months under the Code. Decem-
ber, 1933 - 100 72
IS. Changes in Production, Employment anu Average Hours Worked in
300 Plants classified by Products, February , 1933 to
February, 1934 73
20. Changes in Total Garments Cut and Earnings, Hours, Productivity
and Employment of Operators in 300 Plants from February, 1933
to February , 1934 74
21. Changes in Dozens of Garments Cut Per Hour in 230 Plants from
February, 1933 to January, 1S34 75
22. Changes in Total Garments Cut and in Earnings, Hours, productiv-
ity and Employment of Gatters in 300 Plants from February,
1933 to February, 1934 76
23. Changes in Employment of Operators in February, 1934 in 672
Cotton Garment plants Classified by Average Hours Worked in
February, 1933 77
24. Changes in Employment and Productivity of Operators in February,
1934 for 672 Plants '. 78
25. Average Weekly Hours of Cutters in 405 Plants, February, 1934.. 79
26. '"reekly Hours of Gatters and IJon-Lienuf acturing Employees,
February, 1934 80
27. Inde:: of Monthly Protraction of Sheep Lined and Leather
Garment s 81
28. Production and Labor Comparisons of Cotton Garments with
Sheep Lined and Leather Garments, February, 1934 82
29. Percentage Distribution of 1,164 Sheep Lined and Leather Garment
Employees by Hours Worked in 22 Plants 83
30. Monthly Changes in Production and Employment in 24 Sheep Lined
and Leather Garment Plants 84
31. Percentage Distribution of Kon-Manuf acturing Employees, Classi-
fied by Average Hours Worked in 405 Plants, 'February, 1934.. 85
32. Average Weekly Hours and Wage Rates of Operators, Regular,
Learners and Privileged in 500 Plants., February, 1934 86
33. proportions of Learner and Privileged Operators Employed in
February , 1934 87
34. Percentage Distribution of 489 Cotton Garment Plants Employing
Learner and privileged Operators, February, 1934 88
35. Number of Weeks for Learners to Become Regular Operators as
Estimated by 271 luanufacturers 89
9799
-41-
INDEX OF CHARTS
Number Page
36. Comp .site Changes in Brployraent , Weekly Hours, and Weekly and
Hourly Wages in 5f;7 northern and 115 Southern Plants.
February, 1935 to February, 1934 90
37. Hourly Wage Hates in 557 northern Plants and 115 Southern
Plants "by Products and by Occupations. February, 1934 91
38. Hourly Wage Rates of Sewing Machine Operators, Second Week
in December, 1933 92
39. Hourly Earnings and Weekly Hours of Sewing Machine Operators in
Northern and Southern Factories Owned by the Sane Concerns. ... 93
40. Monthly Rentals of White Families in the North and in the
South. By Size of City, Excluding Suburbs, 1930 94
41. Ratio of Retail Wages in the South to Retail Wages in the North 95
42. Changes in Weekly Hours and Productivity of Operators in 212
Northern and 49 Southern Plants from February, 1933 to
February, 1934 96
43. Changes in Wholesale Price and in Material, Labor, and Overhead
Cost of Overalls, February, 1933 to February, 1934 97
44. Proportion of Labor, Material, and Overhead Costs to the
Wholesale Price of Overalls, February, 1933 and Percentage
Increases, February, 1934 98
45. Changes in Operator Hours Per Week, Earnings Per Hour, Garments
Cut Per Hour, and Labor Cost to Value of Product in 76 Work
Clothing Plants from February, 1933 to February, 1934 99
46. Hourly Earnings of 2,479 Cutters in 790 Plants, March, 1934 ... 100
47. Average Hourly Earnings of Cutters in 405 Plants, February, 1934 101
48. Hourly Earnings of 2,072 Cutters in the North and 407 Cutters
in the South Classified by Product. March, 1934 102
49. Percentage Distribution of Cutter's by Weekly Wages in 790
Plants, March, 1934 103
50. Average Weekly Wages of Cutters in 405 Plants, February, 1934 . 104
51. Weekly Wages of 1,731 Cutters in the North and 454 Cutters in
the South, Classified by Product. March, 1934 105
52. Weekly Wages of Cutters in 405 Cotton C-arment Plants,
February, 1933 and February, 1934 106
53. Average Weekly Wages and Hourly Earnings of 1,130 Cutters in
358 Plants, March, 1934 107
9799
-42-
IHEBX OF CHARTS
Number Page
54. Distribution of Hourly Earnings of Operators in 470 Plants,
February, 1934 108
55. Weekly Wages, Weekly Hours, and Hourly Earnings in February,
1934 of Operators, Grouped by Their Average Weekly Wages
in February, 1933 , 109
56. Weekly Wages, Weekly Hours, and Hourly Earnings in February,
1934 of Cutters, Grouped by Their Average Weekly Wages
in February, 1933 110 •
57. Weekly Wages, Weekly Hours, and Hourly Earnings in February,
1934 of Eon-Manufacturing Employees, Grouped by Their
Average Weekly Wages in February, 1933 Ill
58. Weekly Wages, Weekly Hours, and Hourly Earnings in February,
1934 of Office Employees, Grouped by Their Average
Weekly Wages in February, 1933 112
59. Number of Homeworkers Employed by 8C Establishments Among
1500 Reporting Plants 113
60. Age Distribution of Homevrorkers Compared to Factory Workers.. 114
61. Length of Service of Homeworkers Compared to Factory Workers,
February, 1934 ' 115
62. Percentage Changes in Em-oloyment, Wages, Payrolls, and Hours
for 830 Plants, July, 1929 to March, 1934 116
63. Hourly Earnings and Weekly Wages of Employees in 830 Plants
on July 1 , 1929 and March 24, 1934". 117
64. Wages, Hours, and Employment in the First Reporting 319 Plants
and in the IText Re-porting 353 Plants for Loth February,
1933 and February," 1934 118
65. Principal Changes in the Cotton Garment Industry, February,
1933 to February, 1934 119
9799
% ite 1
sic:,,:"; cm w.^es, il.s and eiployimmtt
III o72 COTTON G-iiillMi1 PLANTS.
FEE. 1933 FEE. 193U Cb CHANGE
TOTAL EMPLOYEES 63. 359 jt.231! - 00.2
First 319 Reporting Plants 26,538
Next 353 Reporting Plants 36,321
WEEKLY WAGE $9.40
First 319 Reporting Plants 9.67
Next 353 Reporting Plants 9*21
WEEKLY HOURS Ul.U
First 319 Reporting Plants 1+0.0
Next 353 Reporting plants k2.k
HOURLY EARNINGS 22. Id
First 319 Reporting Plants 24. 1
Next 353 Reporting Plants 22.0
PROPORTION OF EMPLOYEES AT H-0 to
50 HOURS PER WEEK 38. VS
First 319 Reporting Plants kk.l
Next 353 Reporting Plants 3U.O
PROPORTION OF EMPLOYEES AT Uo
HOURS PER WEEK 5U.6^
First 319 Reporting Plants 39.7
Next 353 Reporting Plants 30.8
PROPORTION OF EMPLOYEES OVER 50
HOURS PER WEEK 13. 6'?
First 319 Reporting Plants 10.2
Next 353 Reporting Plants l6.0
PROPORTION OF EMPLOYEES OFER HO
HOURS PER WEEK 2.1#
First 319 Reporting Plants _ 2.2
Next 353 Reporting Plants 2.0
(WAGE TOTALS EXCLUDE SHEEP LINED AND LEATHER GARMENT PLANTS)
27,065
36,169
/ 2.0
- 1.8
312.07
12.30
11.90
/ 28. k
/ 27.2
/ 29.3
32.5
32.6
- 21.5
- 18.6
32. k
- 23. b
31-1
36.7
/ 63.4
/ 56.U
/ 67.O
0
9799
-44-
TABLE 2
CHANGES III nOIT.S, WAC-ES MD EllFLOYMSiTT SXH £~[2 PLANTS
zro;. zjbeuahy, 1933 to reaaiiisr, 193U
weekly Ejoims hourly earnings yyyyly wages fi ot:-^ki ht
1933 133*1- 1933 193^ I9"ii 1S3J+ s;u/loy:zi'T
Shirts 39.3 30.3' 21. kf 31 -5<P $S.Ul 11.57 - 6.0J5
Work Shirts 'lU.3 33. 1 17.9' 33-6 8,00 11.79 /51-8
Pants 3S-5 32.3 20.2 37-9 7'7S 12. 2k / 7.S
Boys' Blouses kk.5 30»0 21.9 36-3 9-72 10. SS -lU.5
Pajamas H5.I 35. 1 21.7 32-9 9-77 13 -6U -17-0
Sheep-lined & 35.5 2S-2 jjl.4 UlcG 11,12 12. lU -9*7
Leather
Miscellaneous 1+1.6 3^.5 26.7 42.2 11.11 lU.56 /I3.U
Overalls 39o5 33.1 23,5 36=3 3.29 12.01 / 6.U
Wash Dresses kk.k 33-9 23.3 37-5 10,35 12. 65 - 9.0
ALL PBODUCTS Ul.4 12.5 22.7$* 37-lf-' 0:''k° 12,07 ~00.2;S
The total for all products excludes Shecp-lineu and Leather Garments.
9799
-45-
TABLE 3
WAGES, H0U113, AI1D EMPLOYMENT IN 672 COTTON C-ARIiENT PLANTS
(EXCLUDING SHEEP LINED AND LEATHER I7AG2 DATA)
3TDRUARY, 1933 and FEBRUARY, 1334
CLASSIFIED 3Y OCCUPATION
WEEKLY HOURS
WEEKLY WAGES
HOURLY EARNINGS
CUTTERS
1933
44.3
$23.82
53-7^
193^
36.5
22. 64
61.9
-% Change in Employment
/ 2.6
OPERATORS
1933
38. 3
$ 7. £2
19.9*
1934
32.0
II.30
35.2
fo Change in Employment
- 3.3
NON-MANUFACTURING EMPLOYEES
1933
U5.3
$15.QO
35-0^
1934
4o.2
16.91
42.0
$ Change in Employment
/19.9
OFFICE EMPLOYEES
1933
42.5
$16.78
39.1+0
1934
39-7
18.01
45.3
fo Change in Employment
- 3-3
LEARNER-OPERATORS
1933
39- 8
$ 4.i4
10.4^
193^
30.0
7.4i
24.5
Proportion to Operators Feb. 1934 4.8$
PRI VI LEGED-OPERATORS
1934 31.0
Proportion to operators Feb. 1934 5-0$
9799
$ 7.61
24. 6{*
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TABLE 6
HOURS, WAGES, EARNINGS, AMD EMPLOYMENT OF 25,242 OPERATORS
IN 406 PLANTS, FEBRUARY, 1935 and FEBRUARY, 1934, CLASSIFIED BY
POPULATION OF TOWN AND BY NORTH AND SOUTH.
J6 Change
in Em-
Weekly Hours
Weekly Wages
Hourly
Earnings ployment
No. of
POPULATION
1933
1934
1933 1934
1933
'1934
1933-1934
Plants
Over 250,000
North.
36.5
32.8
$8.89 $12.57
24.30
38.30
-6.6$
146
South
35.8
33.2
6.16 11.60
18.5
35.0
fA.l
37
U. S.
36.4
32.9
8.38 12.34
23.0
37.5
-4.2
183
100,000 to 250,000
North
37.9
31.7
$7.15 $11.75
18.8^
37.10
J-1.&
36
South
28.5
31.6
4.41 10.38
15.5
32.8
/•8.9
9
u. s.
36.0
31.7
6.59 11.46
18.3
36.2
7^2.8
45
50,000 to 100,
000
North
37.2
32.6
$8.23 $11.40
22. If*
35.00
-14.9$
31
South
46.0
32.9
10.33 9.15
22.5
27.8'
-12.7
4
U. S.
39.6
32.7
8.81 10.80
22.2
33.1
-14.7
35
25,000 to 50,000
North
35.8
29.7
$8.99 $11.77
25.1^
"9.60
- 5.6$
20
South
41.3
31.9
6.08 10.52
14.7
32.9
/•ll.l
6
U. S.
38.0
30.7
7.84 11.24
20.7
36.7
- 0.1
26
10,000 to 25,000
North
38.9
30.2
$7.23 $11.07
18.60
36.70
-14.9$
36
South
31.7
30.9
5.57 9.89
17.6
32.0
/•46.6
7
U. S.
37.7
30.4
6.96 10.78
18.5
35.5
- 5.7
43
5,000 to 10,000
North
43.2
oo • 0
&8.03 $11.99
18.60
35.80
- 1.5$
21
South
47.7
30.5
7.26 9.79
15.2
32.1
- 5.3
5
u. s.
44.0
33.0
7.88 11.59
17.9
35.2
— 2 p
26
2,500 to 5,000
North
32.8
31.9
$7.79 $11.10
23.80
34.80
^21.6$
16
South
39.0
32.9
5.92 10.06
15.2
31.1
- C.l
8
U. S.
36.0
32.1
6.81 10.65
18.9
33.2
/• 4.1
24
1,000 to 2,500
North
42.2
33.3
$7.21 $11.80
17.10
35.50
— 8 . 1)j
12
South
50.0
32.9
0.36 10.13
16.7
30.8
/•ll.l
1
U. S.
43.2
33.2
7.37 11.11
17.0
34.8
_ R n
13
Jndcr 1,000
North
35.5
24.0
$8.32 $ 8.43
23.40
34.00
/^113.3$
6
South
42.9
31.6
7.93 9.35
18.5
29.5
/- 33.1
/• 51.5
5
U. S.
40.6
28.6
8.05 8.95
19.8
31.2
11
TOTAL - North
38.0
32.1
$8.14 $11.85
21.40
37.00
- 5.6
324
South
39.2
32.2
6.87 10.39
17.5
32.3
/■ 4.9
82
GRAND TOTAL -
38.3
32.1
7.82 11.47
20.3
35.7
- 3.3
406
U. S.
q^qq
-49-
R-45
TABLE 7
COUPOSITE CHAEGES II" WORE CLOTHING AND NOHK SHIRTS
PLANTS PRIOR TO AND USHER THE CODE.
■ PE3PJJAPY 1933 « 100 (BASE IIONTH)
EMPLOYMENT
WEEKLY HOPES
HOURLY EARNINGS
WEEKLY T7AGES
WHOLESALE PRICE
COST 0? MATERIAL
OVERHEAD COST AND 100
PROI'IT
PROPORTIOi: OP LABOR 100
TO VALUE OP PRODUCT
GARMENTS CUT 100
CARMEETS SHIPPED 100
VALUE OP SHIPMENTS 100
OPEPATOR HOURS PER 100
WEEK
OPEPATOR EARITINGS 100
PEP, HOUR
PEB.19
JO
JULY 1933
DSC. ]
933
JAP. 1934
PEP. 1334
100
126
94
119
120
100
113
67
71
83
100
94
149
159
157
100
107
101
113
131
100
114
155
155
155
100
117
168
169
171
100
110
139
137
134
PRODUCTIVITY OP
OPERATORS
100
83
97
94
108
165
104
73
166
141
QA
155
72
110
117
185
71
124
151
214
104
169
180
120
65
76
88
167
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TABLE 10
WEEKLY WAGES, WEEKLY HOURS, AND HOURLY EAHNINGS OF EMPLOYEES
IK FEBRUARY, 1934 WHO RECEIVED ABOVE $13 PER WEEK 117 FEBRUARY, 1933
(Sample drawn from 672 Plants)
PLA1IT AVERAGES
•
cutt:
as
Actual Weekly Wages
Weekly
Wages
Weekly
Hours
Hourly
Earnings
February, 1933
1933 -
1934
1933 -
1934
1933 -
1934
$13 - 14
$13.65
$20.43
41.0
39.8
34. 0^
51.0??
15 - 19
17.10
20.32
46.0
35.8
37.7
57.0
20 - 24
21. '76
20.54
47.7
35.6
45.6
57.5
25 - 29
26.54
24.00
45.3
39.0
58.4
61.2
30 - 34
31.21
25.43
46.7
37.3
66.9
68.2
35 - .39
37.43
25.00
46.4
31.1
80.5
80.3
40 - over
45.54
43.65
43.3
39.9
94.0
109.2
OPERATORS
$13 - 14
$13.21
13.32
40.0'
35.3rf
32. 3<p
37.6(#
15 - over
16.83
13.20
43.7
31.9'
36.7
41.3.
NON
-IIA1TUFACTURI1IG EMPLOYEES
$13 - 14
$13.72
14.90
45.2
38.6
30.4(2*
38. 6^
15 - 19
16.18
17.75
47.1
. 42.0
34.4
42.3
20 - 241
21.76
19.49
44.8
40.0
48.5
48.8
25-35
29.11
19.12
48.1
40.2
60.5
47.6
•
OFFICE
EMPLOYEES
$13 - 14
$13.86
15.85
44.3
43.0
31.3^
36.8(£
15-19
16.43
17.25
41.2
38.4
39.9
44.9
20 - 24
20.93
20.53
47.1
39.4
44.5
52.1
25 - 35
27.41
22.23
43.2
38.7
63.5
57.2
(In Southern plants the lowest wage class selected was $12 - $14.)
9799
-DA-
TABLE 11
CHANGES IN MACHINE CAPACITY, EMPLOYMENT AND PAY3DLLS III 83<) PLANTS
lrJ29 - 1933 - 1934
July 1,
1929
March 1,
1933
July 1,
1933
March. 24,
1934
14,893
107,899
/ 13.7$
110,906
4- 16. 9)
114,552
/ 20.7/,
72,880
71,199
81,733
79,419
76.9
66.0
73.7
69.3
97,139
94,432
-2. 8;, j
110,272
-/- 13.5$
106,390
-/-9.5$
No. of Sewing Machines
Change since 1929
Ho. of Sewing Machines
actually in operation
',o Capacity
Total Ho. of Employees
Change since 1929
Total Weekly Payroll $1,305,271 $841,426 $1, 075,528 $1,428,934
Average Weekly Wages $13.44 $8.91 $9.75 $13.43
Total Machine Hours 3,393,998 3,125,721 3,679,486 3,013,452
Average Hoxirs worked 47.0 44.0 45.1 37.9
per week
Total Man Hours 4,526,795 4,147,314 4,978,521 4,033,718
Average Hourly Earnings 23. 8f? 20.3^ 22. Lj* 35.4
9799
-54-
TA2LE 12
MACHINE CAPACITY, EMPLOYMENT AND PAYROLLS - MARCH 24, 1934.
No. of Sewing Machines
No. of Sewing Machines
actually in operation
Jo Capacity
Total No. of Employees
Total Weekly payroll
Average Weekly Wages
Machine Hours
Average Hours v/orked
per week
Man Hours
Average hourly earnings
U.S.
1228 PI
ants
150,
505
103,
690
68
M
NORTH SOUTH
968 Plants 260 Plants
138,553
$1,852,239
$13.36
3,911,516
37.8
5,244,267
35. 3$
111,359
74,432
66 . 8>
101,274
$1,398,182
$15. j1
^7.6
39,146
29,258
74. 7 1
37,284
$454,057
$12.18
2,798,957 1,112,559
38.0
3,829,825 1,414,442
36.5^ 32. If*
1,111 Plants reporting for "both March 1, 1933 and March 24, 1934 and
registered an increase of 13.0$ in number of Employees.
875 Plants in the North reported r.n increase of 15.3$.
236 Plants in the South reported en increase of 7.0':>.
9799
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9799
CHART J _gr,_
PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF 147.344 SEWING
MACHINES
RANGED ACCORDING TO SIZE OF 1376 PLANTS
Percent of
Sewin& Machines
Percent of
Sewing Machines
o »°
Sou x- c t •. Pre 1 1 mi warj Re jsovr *,
9799
20 30 40 50 40 70 go 90 100
Percfntof Hants Statistical Pw is ion
Cotton Garment Cope Authority
June 8. 193*.
-58-
9799
-59-
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-68-
CHART l<t
PRODUCTION OF COTTON GARMENTS IN 300
PLANTS, FEBRUARY, 1933 AND FEBRUARY, 1934
<0000«|
joo\oao
+00,000-
JOOOoO
Joo.o»o
/ooooo
Dozens of Gar»ntnt"S
Cvt Feb »»*t
f 600^009
TOO.OOO
+oo,oo«
Joaooo
2 O0,ooo
100,000
io« fct: ProJ»'-t\ori R«»o»fS
9799
JTVjy'f. <9J*
CHART 15
-69-
PRODUCTION, SHIPMENTS, AND VALUE REPORTED BY 52 SHIRT PLANTS
IN FEBRUARY, 1933 AND FEBRUARY, 1934
GARMENTS CUT
GARMENTS SHIPPED
VAiJUE OF SHIPMENTS
FEB.
1933
37)22
B
B
a
a Be
B ia
n f] e
1
a Ha
13 Ie
SI a
E
feb.
1934
96,523
13^
3
B Na
aid
E
FEB.
1933
6L425
e
s=
EL
FEB.
1934
79^537
w
el
ID-
m
FEB.
1933
1322,78ft
1573,800
Source : Production Reports
9799
EACH
^ 10,000 DOZEN SHIRTS CUT
EACH =•=*=« = 10,000 DOZEN SHIRTS SHFVED
EACH
= 50,000 DOLLARS
Statistical Division
Cotton Garment Code Authority
AW I IJ3+
CHART /6
-70-
PERCENTAGE MONTHLY CHANGES IN PRODUC-
TION AND AVERAGE VALUE OF GARMENTS IN
226 PLANTS,
FEB. JULY. DEC J933 AND JAN. FEB., 1934 RaATfVE TO
Per Cent of
December 1933
iooT
♦o
3co
2C&
/oo
too
6o-
I9S\
DECEMBER, 1933
GrtRwENTS Gut
Sh«af>i»n«d8 LeaTK
_Wo>>< Clothtr^
..Gil Products
S/myJs
_WosK D>€SS«S
300
5oo
Per Cent of
December 1933
T-SOO
400
Shet fib htd^i Leaf i\
*6rV ClotKmj
....ail Products
Sh>rt%
*<to
July
/933
Oec.
(933
Jan.
193+
Teb.
/93f
,99
S?ot)sticul Diu/ston
CoMon Got rnent(od« (Jothot&u
June ^ \9M-
CHART 17 -71-
PERCENTAGE CHANGES IN PRODUCTION,
EMPLOYMEN T, HOURLY EARNINGS. AND
AVERAGE VALUE OF GARMENTS IN 300
PLANTS, FEBRUARY, 1933 TO FEBRUARY.I934
•/o CH^N&t
-Jo
l_
-10
— L_
-10
■
10 20
PRODUCTION
EMPLOYMENT In
ICHA
ALL
PRODUCTS
*/a INCREASE.
IO JO OO HO SO CO I© 40 SO IOO
' ■ I II I I I I I
VALUE
wm
F1
»
o 'p 3,0 JiB y s,o y T
.
SHIRTS
BLOUSES
PAJAMAS
OVERALLS
SHEEP-LINED
AND LEATHER
WASH
DRESSES
WORK
SHIRTS
PANTS
EARNINGS
PER HOUR
9799
STATISTICAL DIVISION
COTTON &ARMCNT COt>t AUTHORJTV
JUNE 5,>^3H
-72-
IHAftT 1 6
200
ISO
PERCENTAGE CHANGES IN EMPLOYMENT
AND PRODUCTION FOR 226 IDENTICAL
PLANTS IN THE FIRST THREE MONTHS
UNDER THE CODE
DECEMBER 1933 * 100 (BASE MONTH)
ALL PRODUCTS
(OO
300
iso-
/oo
goo-
iso-
too-
JOOt
ISO ■■
too
aooT
200-
/oo
/JOT
too
Dec emb«r
1933
rrot/t/chon fle^offi
9799
Pro otic now
EnPLOVMENT
Work ClorHiN6
PRODUCTION
EMPLOYMENT
k/ASH 0WES5fcS
Production
EMPLOYMfNT
JlHIRTS
EMPLOYMENT
PftNTS Production
Employment
SHEfcPliWEO fl»D (.t/ITHfR
PRODUCTION
JOhfQYC/
I93t
s ISC
(0
PRODUCTION ..(jc
m
tJcc
• JOC
IOC
Jc
Statistical Owisio" ,
Colton tinmen* Co J 9 a«tho»',y
June (9 34-
-73-
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9799
cwAflr 25
-79-
AVERAGE WEEKLY HOURS OF CUTTERS
IN 405 PLANTS, FEBRUARY, 1934
9799
Stohsticql Division
Cotton Gorment'Cod* dcMortty
TftQ\f25 /93-f
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9799
CHART 27 _
81-
INDEX OF MONTHLY PRODUCTION OF SHEEP-
LINED AND LEATHER GARMENTS
Pevcentof Dot ma I
ISO T
it€> ■■ ■
m> ••
120 -■
100
&o ■■
60 ■■
10
20
Pevcentof formal
no
• - 160
lft?8rol»* TOo^t^ flueruge/ Production ~ IOO \
. . /*0
■- no
• /oo
• SO
I..
■• 40
--_ /
■ * 1 » 11 1 1 i i 1 i+ 0
60
20
9799
Jin. f€b. m»n.h Qf+\ flby June Ji/t^ (li^. SepT, Oct. Jlov Oec.
5tqt/st"'ca2 Dli/'S/on
Cotton 6cirnic«J' (We llt/thont
Source: V> Cfcns^S, fflonthty
Prod (/<: I ic n Decor</s
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-84-
9799
CHART 31
-85-
PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF NON -MANUFACTURING
EMPLOYEES, CLASSIFIED BY AVERAGE HOURS WORKED
IN 405 PLANTS, FEBRUARY, 1934
Per lent of J)Qn-f)\ahutQ<tvttny krn^/oyces
Source :Puuroll f?e/aorts
9799
StytisiXul DlH^/Or]
Cotton Current Co«J< (U'tliori/y
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-97-
CHART I-3
CHANGES IN WHOLESALE PRICE AND IN
MATERIAL, LABOR, AND OVERHEAD COST OF
OVERALLS, FEBRUARY, I933 TO FEBRUARY, I934
Percentage of
Feb. 1933
Percentage of
re b 1933
no
160
150
140
130
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Source Re pi /es of '7 Overall rlanthcturers
to IACM Questionnaire on Cost
g79g Tncrefies, February , 2/ 1934
, ■ ■ l/oo
X>ecl Feb
1934
Stdtisticd/ Service Bureau
395 Brort**,. NYC
3 2Z-34
-88-
9799
CHART 4-5
-99-
CHANGES IN OPERATOR HOURS PER WEEK,
EARNINGS PER HOUR, GARMENTS CUT PER
HOUR, AND LABOR COST TO VALUE OF PRO-
UCT IN 76 WORK CLOTHING PLANTS FROM
FEBRUARY 1933 TO FEBRUARY 1934
*oo
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so
Labor Prop
Value of Pfiooucr
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Feb.
1933
—» —
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+
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6ource : PauroU o*d
9799
Dec, Jan. Ftb.
1933 19 Jt »9M-
Siqfcisi'icql DiViiicrt
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-104-
Ch&rt JO
AVERAGE WEEKLY WAGES OF CUTTERS IN
405 PLANTS, FEBRUARY, 1934
Hmmber of Pltnt*
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Pro JvcttOT) ftaports
9799
Stttisttcil Division
Cotton (rdi-meat Coolt Authority
n*j z, nit
-105-
CHART.T/
WEEKLY WAGES OF 1731 CUTTERS IN THE
NORTH AND 454 CUTTERS IN THE SOUTH
CLASSIFIED BY PRODUCT MARCH, 1934
NORTH
] South
/o is
Dpi l AffS PER WEEK
9799
Statistical Division
Cotton 6qrmet\t Code Clvtho-nty
7T]<Jy U, /93 +
CHART 62 -106-
WEEKLY WAGES OF CUTTERS IN 405 COTTON GARMENT
PLANTS, FEBRUARY, 1933 AND FEBRUARY, 1934
K
1914-1 3
DOLLARS PER. WEEK
IF lb 17 16 I? 20 £1 11 13 2H iS 21 LI 28 29 ZO 31 31 33 34 3S
l — i — i — n — i i i — i r i i i i t i i i ii i r
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B
ALL PLANTS
(EXCLUim SHEEP
LINED MP LEATHER)
SHIRTS
RAJ A fl AS
OVERALLS
WORK SHIRTS
SHEEP LINED
AND LEATHER
SOURCE-. PAYROLL AND
PRODUCTION REPORTS
PANTS
HASH DRESSES
MISCELLANEOUS
STATISTICAL DIVISION
COTTON GARMENT
COPE AUTHORITY
WAY /+, 193 f
9799
CHART 53
-107-
AVERAGE WEEKLY WAGES AND HOURLY EARNINGS OF
1130 CUTTERS IN 358 PLANTS. MARCH, 1934
NORTH
(EXCLUDING NEW YORK CITY)
SOUTH
WEEKLY
WAGES
HOURLY
EARNINGS
WEEKLY
WAGES
HOURLY
EARNINGS
$2015
48<t
9799
STATISTICAL DIVISION
COTTON GARMENT CODE AUTHORITY
MAY 24 1934
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CHAflT S9 _li3_
NUMBER OF HOMEWORKERS EMPLOYED BY
80 ESTABUSHMENTS AMONG 1500 REPORTNG
PLANTS
Ji/<.y, /933
February, /9.3 V-
/lib Home workers
\/s\ COLLAR A/VO ^UFF TURNER!
Jlurce HomvuJork Peparti
C ot ton 6a r mtnf- C ado Authority
HO Worth S4r**+, A/.y.L.
Apr,/ /93Y
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CHART 63
HOURLY EARNINGS AND WEEKLY WAGES OF EMPLOYEES IN 830
PLANTS ON JULY I. 1929 AND MARCH 24. 1934
SOURCE QUESTIONNAIRE ON
MACHME CAPACITY.
EMPLOYMENT. AND PAYROLLS
9799
STATISTICAL DIVISION
COTTON GARMENT CODE AUTHORITY
JUNE I 1934
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979%
OFFICE OF THE NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION
THE DIVISION OF REVIEW
THE WORK OF THE DIVISION OF REVIEW
Executive Order No. 7075, dated June 15, 1935, established the Division of Review of the
National Recovery Administration. The pertinent part of the Executive Order reads thus:
The Division of Review shall assemble, analyze, and report upon the statistical
information and records of experience of the operations of the various trades and
industries heretofore subject to codes of fair competition, shall study the ef-
fects of such codes upon trade, industrial and labor conditions in general, and
other related matters, shall make available for the protection and promotion of
the public interest an adequate review of the effects of the Administration of
Title I of the National Industrial Recovery Act, and the principles and policies
put into effect thereunder, and shall otherwise aid the President in carrying out
his functions under the said Title. I hereby appoint Leon C. Marshall, Director of
the Division of Review.
The study sections set up in the Division of Review covered these areas: industry
studies, foreign trade studies, labor studies, trade practice studies, statistical studies,
legal studies, administration studies, miscellaneous studies, and the writing of code his-
tories. The materials which were produced by these sections are indicated below.
Except for the Code Histories, all items mentioned below are scheduled to be in mimeo-
graphed form by April 1, 1936.
THE CODE HISTORIES
The Code Histories are documented accounts of the formation and administration of the
codes. They contain the definition of the industry and the principal products thereof; the
classes of members in the industry; the history of code formation including an account of the
sponsoring organizations, the conferences, negotiations and hearings which were held, and
the activities in connection with obtaining approval of the code; the history of the ad-
ministration of the code, covering the organization and operation of the code authority,
the difficulties encountered in administration, the extent of compliance or non-compliance,
and the general success or lack of success of the code; and an analysis of the operation of
code provisions dealing with wages, hours, trade practices, and other provisions. These
and other matters are canvassed not only in terms of the materials to be found in the files,
dux also in terms of the experiences of the deputies and others concerned with code formation
and administration.
The Code Histories, (including histories of certain NRA units or agencies) are not
mimeographed. They are to be turned over to the Department of Commerce in typewritten form.
All told, approximately eight hundred and fifty (850) histories will be completed. This
number includes all of the approved codes and some of the unapproved codes. (In Work
Materials No 1J3, Contents of Code Histries, will be found the outline which governed
the preparation of Code Histories.)
(In the case of all approved codes and also in the case of some codes not carried to
final approval, there are in NRA files further materials on industries. Particularly worthy
of mention are the Volumes I, II and III which constitute the material officially submitted
to the President in support of the recommendation for approval of each code. These volumes
9768—1.
set forth the origination of the code, the sponsoring group, the evidence advanced to sup-
port the proposal, the report of the Division of Research and Planning on the industry, the
recommendations of the various Advisory Boards, certain types of official correspondence,
the transcript of the formal hearing, and other pertinent matter. There is also much offi-
cial information relating to amendments, interpretations, exemptions, and other ruling3. The
materials mentioned in this paragraph were of course not a part of the work of the Division
of Review. )
THE WORK MATERIALS SERIES
In the work of the Division of Review a considerable number of studies and compilations
of data (other than those noted below in the Evidence Studies Series and the Statistical
Material Series) have been made. These are listed below, grouped according to the char-
acter of the material. (In Work Materials Njj. 17, Tentative Outlines and Summaries of
Studies in Process, these materials are fully described).
Industry Studies
Automobile Industry, An Economic Survey of
Bituminous Coal Industry under Free Competition and Code Regulation, Economic Survey of
Electrical Manufacturing Industry, The
Fertilizer Industry, The
Fishery Industry and the Fishery Codes
Fishermen and Fishing Craft, Earnings of
Foreign Trade under the National Industrial Recover., Act
Part A - Competitive Position of the United States in International Trade 1927-29 through
1934.
Part B - Section 3 (e) of NIRA and its administration.
Part C - Imports and Importing under NRA Codes.
Part L - Exports and Exporting under NRA Codes.
Forest Products Industries, Foreign Trade Study of the
Iron and Steel Industry, The
Knit Ling Industries, The
Leather and Shoe Industries, The
Lumber and Timber Products Industry, Economic Problems cf the
Men's Clothing Industry, The
Millinery Industry, The
Motion Picture Industry, The
Migration of Industry, The: The Shift of Twenty-Five Needle Trades From New York State,
1926 to 1934
National Labor Income by Months, 1929-35
Paper Industry, The
Production, Prices, Employment and Payrolls in Industry, Agriculture and Railway Trans-
portation, January 1923, to date
Retail Trades Study, The
Rubber Industry Study, The
Textile Industry in the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Italy, and Japan
Textile Yarns and Fabrics
Tobacco Industry, The
Wholesale Trades Study, The
Women's Neckwear and Sc?rf Industry, Financial and Labor Data on
9758—2
- Ill -
Women's Apparel Industry, Some Aspects of the
Trade Practice Studies
Commodities, Information Concerning: A Study of NRA and Related Experiences in Control
Distribution, Manufacturers' Control of: Trade Practice Provisions in Selected NRA Codes
Distributive Relations in the Asbestos Industry
Design Piracy: The Problem and Its Treatment Under NRA Codes
Electrical Mfg. Industry: Price Filing Study
Fertilizer Industry: Price Filing Study
Geographical Price Relations Under Codes of Fair Competition, Control of
Minimum Price Regulation Under Codes of Fair Competition
Multiple Basing Point System in the Lime Industry: Operation of the
Price Control in the Coffee Industry
Price Filing Under NRA Codes
Production Control in the Ice Industry
Production Control, Case Studies in
Resale Price Maintenance Legislation in the United States
Retail Price Cutting, Restriction of, with special Emphasis on The Drug Industry.
Trade Practice Rules of The Federal Trade Commission (1914-1936) : A classification for
comparison with Trade Practice Provisions of NRA Codes.
Labor Studies
Cap and Cloth Hat Industry, Commission Report on Wage Differentials in
Earnings in Selected Manufacturing Industries, by States, 1933-35
Employment, Payrolls, Hours, and Wages in 115 Selected Code Industries 1933-35
Fur Manufacturing, Commission Report on Wages and Hours in
Hours and Wages in American Industry
Labor Program Under the National Industrial Recovery Act, The
Part A. Introduction
Part B, Control of Hours and Reemployment
Part C. Control of Wages
Part D. Control of Other Conditions of Employment
Part E. Section 7(a) of the Recovery Act
Materials in the Field of Industrial Relations
PRA Census of Employment, June, October, 1933
Puerto Rico Needlework, Homeworkers Survey
Administrative Studies
Administrative and Legal Aspects of Stays, Exemptions and Exceptions, Code Amendments, Con-
ditional Orders of Approval
Administrative Interpretations of NRA Codes
Administrative Law and Procedure under the NIRA
Agreements Under Sections 4(a) and 7(b) of the NIRA
Approve Codes in Industry Groups, Classification of
Basic Code, the — (Administrative Order X-61)
Code Authorities and Their Part in the Administration of the NIRA
Part A. Introduction
Part B. Nature, Composition and Organization of Code Authorities
9768—2.
Part C. Activities of the Code Authorities
Part D. Code Authority Finances
Part E. Summary and Evaluation
Code Compliance Activities of the NRA
Code Making Program of the NRA in the Territories, The
Code Provisions and Related Subjects, Policy Statements Concerning
Content of NIRA Administrative Legislation
Part A. Executive and Administrative Orders
Part B. Labor Provisions in the Codes
Part C. Trade Practice Provisions in the Codes
Part D. Administrative Provisions in the Codes
Part E. Agreements under Sections 4(a) and 7(b)
Part F. A Type Case: The Cotton Textile Code
Labels Under NRA, A Study of
Model Code and Model Provisions for Codes, Development of
National Recovery Administration, The: A Review of its Organization and Activities
NRA Insignia
President's Reemployment Agreement, The
President's Reemployment Agreement, Substitutions in Connection with the
Prison Labor Problem under NRA and the Prison Compact, The
Problems of Administration in the Overlapping of Code Definitions of Industries and Trades,
Multiple Code Coverage, Classifying Individual Members of Industries and Trades
Relationship of NRA to Government Contracts and Contracts Involving the Use of Government
Funds
Relationship of NRA with States and Municipalities
Sheltered Workshops Under NRA
Uncodified Industries: A Study of Factors Limiting the Code Making Program
Lsga.1 Studies
Anti-Trust Laws and Unfair Competition
Collective Bargaining Agreements, the Right of Individual Employees to Enforce
Commerce Clause, Federal Regulation of the Employer-Employee Relationship Under the
Delegation of Power, Certain Phases of the Principle of, with Reference to Federal Industrial
Regulatory Legislation
Enforcement, Extra-Judicial Methods of
Federal Regulation through the Joint Employment of the Power of Taxation and the Spending
Power
Government Contract Provisions as a Means :f Establishing Proper Economic Standards, Legal
Memorandum on Possibility of
Industrial Relations in Australia, Regulation of
Intrastate Activities Which so Affect Interstate Commerce as to Bring them Under the Com-
merce Clause, Cases on
Legislative Possibilities of the State Constitutions
Post Office and Post Road Power — Can it be Used as a Means of Federal Industrial Regula-
tion?
State Recovery Legislation in Aid of Federal Recovery Legislation History and Analysis
Tariff Rates to Secure Proper Standards of Wages and Hours, the Possibility of Variation in
Trade Practices and the Anti-Trust Laws
Treaty Making Power of the United States
War Power, Can it be Used as a Means of Federal Regulation of Child Labor?
9768—4.
- V -
THE EVIDENCE STUDIES SERIES
The Evidence Studies were originally undertaken to gather material for pending court
cases. After the Schechter decision the project was continued in order to assemble data for
use in connection with the studies of the Division of Review. The data are particularly
concerned with the nature, size and operations of the industry; and with the relation of the
industry to interstate commerce. The industries covered by the Evidence Studies account for
more than one-half of the total number of workers under codes. The list of those studies
follows:
Automobile Manufacturing Industry
Automotive Parts and Equipment Industry
Baking Industry
Boot and Shoe Manufacturing Industry
Bottled Soft Drink Industry
Builders' Supplies Industry
Canning Industry
Chemical Manufacturing Industry
Cigar Manufacturing Industry
Coat and Suit Industry
Construction Industry
Cotton Garment Industry
Dress Manufacturing Industry
Electrical Contracting Industry
Electrical Manufacturing Industry
Fabricated Metal Products Mfg. and Metal Fin-
ishing and Metal Coating Industry
Fishery Industry
Furniture Manufacturing Industry-
General Contractors Industry
Graphic Arts Industry
Gray Iron Foundry Industry
Hosiery Industry
Infant's and Children's Wear Industry
Iron and Steel Industry
Leather Industry
Lumber and Timber Products Industry
Mason Contractors Industry
Men's Clothing Industry
Motion Picture Industry
Motor Vehicle Retailing Trade
Needlework Industry of Puerto Rico
Painting and Paperhanging Industry
Photo Engraving Industry
Plumbing Contracting Industry
Retail Lumber Industry
Retail Trade Industry
Retail Tire and Battery Trade Industry
Rubber Manufacturing Industry
Rubber Tire Manufacturing Industry
Shipbuilding Industry
Silk Textile Industry
Structural Clay Products Industry
Throwing Industry
Trucking Industry
Waste Materials Industry
Wholesale and Retail Food Industry
Wholesale Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Indus-
try
Wool Textile Industry
THE STATISTICAL MATERIALS SERIES
This series is supplementary to the Evidence Studies Series. The reports include data
on establishments, firms, dmployment. Payrolls, wages, hours, production capacities, ship-
ments, sales, consumption, stocks, prices, material costs, failures, exports and imports.
They also include notes on the principal qualifications that should be observed in using the
data the technical methods employed, and the applicability of the material to the study of
the industries concerned. The following numbers appear in the series:
9768—5.
- Ti -
Asphalt Shingle and Roofing Industry Fertilizer Industry
Business Furniture Funeral Supply Industry
Candy Manufacturing Industry Glass Container Industry
Carpet and Rug Industry Ice Manufacturing Industry
Cement Industry Knitted Outerwear Industry
Cleaning and Dyeing Trade Paint, Varnish, and Lacquer, Mfg. Industry
Coffee Industry Plumbing Fixtures Industry
Copper and Brass Mill Products Industry Rayon and Synthetic Yarn Producing Industry
Cotton Textile Industry Salt Producing Industry
Electrical Manufacturing Industry
THE COVERAGE
The original, and approved, plan of the Division of Review contemplated resources suf-
ficient (a) to prepare some 1200 histories of codes and NRA units or agencies, (b) to con-
solidate and index the NRA files containing some 40,000,000 pieces, (c) to engage in ex-
tensile field work, (d) to secure much aid from established statistical agencies of govern-
ment, (e) to assemble a considerable number of experts in various fields, (f) to conduct
approximately 25J more studies than are listed above, and (g) to prepare a comprehensive
summary report.
Because of reductions made in personnel and in use of outside experts, limitation of
access to field work and research agencies, and lack of jurisdiction over files, the pro-
jected plan was necessarily curtailed. The most serious curtailments were the omission of
the comprehensive summary report; the dropping of certain studies and the reduction in the
coverage of other studies; and the abandonment of the consolidation and indexing of the
files. Fortunately, there is reason to hope that the files may yet be cared for under other
auspices.
Notwithstanding these limitations, if the files are ultimately consolidated and in-
dexed the exploration of the NRA materials will have been sufficient to make them accessible
and highly useful. They constitute the largest and richest single body of information
concerning the problems and operations of industry ever assembled in any nation.
L. C. Marshall,
Director. Division of Review.
9768—6.
"
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