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YOSEMITE   VALLEY 

THIS  wonderful  place  will  never  cease  to  attract  visitors.  If 
one  has  seen  all  the  rest  of  the  world,  and  has  left  this 
Valley  out,  he  still  lacks  something  in  his  experiences. 
There  is  a  note  of  wonder  which  he  has  never  struck;  a  sense  of 
sublimity  which  has  never  been  stirred ;  a  mingled  grandeur  and 
beauty  of  which  he  has  never  dreamed.  And  if,  having  seen 
it,  he  felt  equal  to  describing  it,  he  would  be  as  exceptional  in 
his  egotism  as  Yosemite  is  in  its  greatness.  The  first  white  man 
who  saw  it  was  probably  Dr.  Bunnell,  in  the  winter  of  1849-50. 
His  first  glimpse  was  of  El  Capitan,  and  from  a  long  way  off. 
He  was  ascending  the  old  Bear  Valley  trail  from  Redley's  Ferry 
on  the  Merced  River,  when  "an  immense  cliff  loomed  apparently 
to  the  summit  of  the  mountains."  He  "looked  upon  this  awe- 
inspiring  column  with  wonder  and  admiration,"  but  inquiries  con- 
cerning that  locality  were  fruitless,  and  it  was  not  until  March, 
185 1,  that  Dr.  Bunnell  again  saw  the  great  rock.  He  was  then 
a  member  of  the  Mariposa  Battalion  in  pursuit  of  hostile  Indians. 
The  place  was  Mt.  Beatitude,  above  New  Inspiration  Point. 
"Suddenly  we  came  in  full  view  of  the  Valley.  The  immensity 
of  rock  I  had  seen  in  my  vision  on  the  old  Bear  Valley  trail, 
forty  miles  away,  was  here  presented  to  my  astonished  gaze.  The 
locality  of  the  mysterious  cliff  was  there  revealed,  its  proportions 
enlarged  and  perfected.  *  *  *  None  but  those  who  have  vis- 
ited this  most  wonderful  valley  can  ever  imagine  the  feeling  with 
which  I  looked  upon  the  view  that  was  there  presented." 

It  is  one  story,  from  the  first  spectator  to  the  last — the  limita- 
tions of  human  language. 

Yosemite  lies  in  the  heart  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  ]\Iountains, 
about  150  miles  from  San  Francisco  as  the  crow  flies,  a  little  south 
of  east  in  direction,  its  elevation  about  the  center  of  the  valley 
4,000  feet  above  sea  level.  In  form  it  is  somewhat  irregular, 
and  its  trend  is  northeast  and  southwest.  It  is  closed  at  the 
upper  or  eastern  end,  and  partially  open  at  the  other,  forming 
thus  a  vast  cul-de-sac.  Its  length  is  about  seven  miles,  and  its 
width  from  one-half  to  one  and  one-fourth  miles.  The  valley 
has  recently  been  receded  by  the  State  of  California  to  the 
United  States,  and  will  hereafter  be  taken  care  of  by  the  National 
Government  as  one  of  its  system  of  national  parks.  The  original 
grant  was  fifteen  miles  in  length,  and  in  width  "one  mile  back 
from  the  main  edge  of  the  precipice  on  each  side  of  the  valley." 
The  recession  of  this  territory  now  places  it  on  a  par  with  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park  in  all  matters  of  management  and 
improvement,  and  the  fostering  care  and  generosity  of  the  Gov- 
ernment will  doubtless  greatly  increase  the  facilities  for  seeing 
and  enjoying  this  beautiful  and  unrivaled  region. 


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The  floor  of  the  valley  is  nearly  level,  the  Merced  River, 
which  flows  through  it,  falling  about  sixty-three  feet  in  its 
course.  More  than  3,000  acres  are  meadow  and  pasture,  and 
trees  and  groves  make  of  it  a  natural  park.  The  walls  which 
shut  it  in  are  nearly  perpendicular.  They  are  remarkable  at 
once  for  their  great  height,  their  vertical  character,  and  the 
little  talus  or  debris  at  their  feet.  This  is  part  of  the  charm 
of  this  great  valley.  Its  floor  is  not  a  chaos  of  fallen  rocks. 
Green  grove,  emerald  meadow,  flowery  pasture,  crystal  river, 
crowd  up  to  the  solid  white  feet  of  lofty  precipices,  and  one 
looks  up  at  an  angle  of  90  degrees  to  mountain  summits  3,000- 
5,000  feet  above  him  in  the  zenith.  From  the  twentieth  story 
window  of  the  Masonic  Temple,  Chicago,  you  look  down  three 
hundred  feet  to  the  street  below.  From  Glacier  Point  you  look 
down  the  perpendicular  wall  of  granite  3234  feet  to  the  Valley 
floor. 

If  the  jNIasonic  Temple  were  placed  in  the  valley  we  should 
see  only  a  tiny  rectangle  indicating  the  roof.  If  another  Masonic 
Temple  were  placed  on  top  of  the  first  and  another  on  top  of 
the  second,  and  another  and  another  until  we  had  five,  even 
then  the  accumulated  height  would  scarcely  be  discernible  from 
Glacier  Point  above.  On  top  of  these  five  "sky-scrapers"  add 
Washington's  Monument  (555  ft.)  and  on  its  capstone  add  the 
Eififel  Tower  (984  ft.)  and  still  we  look  down  two  hundred 
feet  to  the  top  of  the  Eiffel  Tower.  How  trivial  are  the  works 
of  man  when  set  beside  just  one  rock  of  the  Grand  Architect  of 
the   Universe. 

Descriptions  of  such  a  place  are  like  pictures  of  bread  to  the 
hungry,  and  the  only  reason  for  this  little  book  is  to  persuade 
you  by  a  recital  of  the  facts  to  go  to  the  feast.  You  should 
see  Yosemite  and — not  die,  but  cherish  for  all  the  rest  of  life 
the  sublime  and  beautiful  vision. 

You  cannot  find  Yosemite  in  literature  and  only  suggestions 
of  it  in  art.  Neither  the  camera  nor  the  brush  of  the  painter 
can  give  you  the  radiant  atmosphere  in  which  in  midsummer  the 
valley  lies,  the  play  of  light  and  shadow  on  granite  wall  and 
tumbling  cataract,  nor  the  overpowering  sense  of  massiyeness 
and  grandeur.  You  must  stand  on  the  heights  and  take  in  the 
whole  amazing  composite  picture,  or  look  up  the  sheer  walls 
from  the  valley  floor,  where  glorious  waterfalls  seem  to  drop 
from  the  blue  sky,  to  realize  that  there  is  a  time  for  silence,  and 
a  place  where  speech  is  almost  an  impertinence. 

If  you  can  see  but  one  place  in  California,  by  all  means  let 
that  one  place  be  Yosemite.     No  words,   spoken   or   written,    or 
painting  by   a    master   hand,    can    interpret    its    sublimity. 
THF  WAY  THPRE  Routes  and  details  of  travel  will  be  found 

inb  WAT    intKt         ^^  p^g^  ^^^  ^^^^  g^^^  special  features  of  the 

Raymond-Wawona  route  may  be  here  pointed  out.  Routes  are 
first  trails,  and  these  are  made  by  a  kind  of  instinct.  The  moun- 
taineer  finds    the    best   grades    and   the    finest    camping    places. 


\yawona  is  "Clark's"  of  the  early  day.  Its  associations  are 
historical  and  literary.  This  is  ground  traversed  by  Whitney's 
Geological  Survey.  Here  Longhurst  fried  flapjacks  for  the  men 
of  the  theodolite  and  barometer;  here  the  swollen  Chowchilla 
nearly  drowned  mules  and  scientists,  and  here  King's  one-eyed 
mule,  Napoleon,  piloted  Cotter  and  himself  to  safety  through  a 
snow-storm  by  night.  If  you  care  for  King's  delightful  book, 
"Mountaineering  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,"  you  will  be  glad  to  go 
over  some  of  the  ground  he  traveled  in  "the  sixties." 

A  night  ride  through  the  San  Joaquin,  an  early  breakfast  at 
Raymond,  then  the  four-in-hand  in  the  sweet  morning  air  of 
the  foothills,  and  over  oiled  roads  which  cling  to  the  steep 
mountain-sides,  you  race  beside  the  sparkling  Merced  and  climb 
to  the  summit  of  the  Chowchillas  amid  some  of  the  finest  scenery 
of  the  great  range.  If  one  is  to  keep  alive  the  traditions  of  the 
best  days  of  coaching  in  the  mountains,  and  can  appreciate  the 
exhilaration  of  a  ride  in  the  open  air,  amid  splendid  forests  and 
in  the  grandest,  most  beautiful  and  hospitable  mountain  range 
in  the  world,  he  will  start  for  Yosemite  from  Raymond.  On 
this  road  is  the  greatest  staging  in  the  world.  The  noon- 
day meal  is  at  Ahwahnee  in  a  pleasant  mountain  meadow.  Here- 
abouts the  Mariposa  lily  is  found,  with  a  picture  of  the  butterfly, 
the  "Mariposa"  on  each  petal.  Grub  Gulch  is  passed,  once 
the  scene  of  great  mining  activity.     The  Fresno  River  supplies 


Hotel  at  Ahivahnee. 


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m//  •  .,.  T^'  7^''''^^-  "^'''^^  ^"^^^^^  seventy-five  miles  to 
Madera  in  the  San  Joaquin,  on  the  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Starveling  oaks  and  digger  pines  give  place  to  yellow  oine^nd 
sugar  pine  the  greatest  of  the  tribe,  and  by  5  o'cbck  we  are 
sweeping  down  to  "Wawona."  If  yoir  visit  to  the  Great  Valley 
can  be  made  with  a  little  leisure,  it  would  be  a  pity  to  miss 
this  fine  mountain  resort  with  its  unequalled  charm  of  meadow 
a?e  n?.7^V''?'  ^f^  jaterall  The  falls  of  musical  Chilnaualn^ 
are  near  by;  a  short  ride  will  take  you  to  the  top  of  Signal  Peak 
where    If  It  IS  not  hazy   you  see  far  over  the  S^.  Joaqfim  plains.' 

nenJ^f  ;i  '  ""''^  '^'i'^  °^-^"'  ^"'^^  ^°^th  all  fatigue  and  ex- 
pense of  the  journey  alone,  is  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees 
We  will  see  them  on  our  return;  now  we  are  impatient  to  get 
into  the  valley  but  we  shall  need  to  remember  that  this  is  the 
most  famous  of  all  the  groves  and  is  reached  by  no  other  route 
Here  are  the  Grizzly  Giant,"  the  "Fallen  Monarch,"  trees 
through  which  you  will  ride  on  the  four-horse  stage,  with  many 
of  the  most  magnificent  specimens  of  the  sequoia  to  be  found  in 
any  grove.     It  is  but  eight  miles  from  the  Hotel  Wawona 

Approaching  Yosemite,  the  first  view,  if  not  the  finest,  is  from 
Inspiration  Point.  The  ride  from  Wawona  is  but  twenty-six  miles 
and  as  we  rush  down  the  grade,  the  whole  magnificent  vision 
bursts  upon  us  in  a  moment.  It  is  quite  unequalled  by  any  other 
approach    to   the    valley    and    is    only    surpassed    by    the    view    a 


J7ofeI  and  Cottages  at  Wawona. 


El  Capiian  from  the  West. 


little  farther  on,  from  what  is  called  Artist's  Point.  From  here 
most  of  the  pictures  of  the  valley  are  painted  and  you  will  be 
disposed  to  admit  that  the  artistic  feeling  is  right.  But  Inspira- 
tion Point  is  notable,  if  the  name  does  conjure  up  rhetorical 
speeches  and  outbursts  of  emotion.  It  is  a  vision  you  have  often 
wished  for,  but  how  shall  you  express  what  you  feel?  Most 
look  with  bated  breath,  some  with  brimming  eye,  others  with 
excited  exclamations.  One  woman  gazed  placidly  at  such  a 
landscape  as  cannot  be  found  elsewhere  in  the  world,  then  amazed 
her  neighbor  by  wondering  "why  they  did  not  put  up  lace  curtains 
in  that  dining-room  at  Wawona."  Human  nature  is  as  sur- 
prising as   Yosemite. 

IN  THE  VALLEY  ^^.^^  °"  ^^^^  right,  or  south  wall,  is  Bridal 
Veil  Falls.  It  is  such  a  thing  of  beauty  as 
baffles  description.  It  slips  over  the  lip  of  granite  rock, 
white,  ethereal,  and  seems  to  drop  its  tenuous  film  into 
the  tree  tops,  and  looks  small  and  feeble  at  first,  so 
overpowering  is  the  impression  of  the  mighty  wall.  But  what 
grace  and  charm!  And,  as  you  come  nearer,  what  sense  of 
power!  The  highest  fall  in  Europe  is  said  to  be  the  Staubbach 
or  Dust  Brook  in  Switzerland.  But  this  one  is  higher,  leaps 
out  of  a  smoother  channel,  has  greater  volume  of  water,  and  is 
seen  in  the  midst  of  loftier  precipices.  The  stream  is  full  thirty 
feet  wide,  and  falls  first  a  distance  of  six  hundred  feet,  then 
rushes  over  a  sloping  pile  of  debris  and  drops  a  perpendicular 
distance  of  three  hundred  feet  more.  But  from  the  chief  points 
of  view  it  seems  to  make  but  one  plunge,  and  the  effect,  Prof. 
J.  D.  Whitney  said,  "is  that  of  being  nine  hundred  feet  in  vertical 
height." 

Around  the  shoulder  behind  which  Bridal  Veil  Creek  makes 
its  way  to  the  brink,  are  Cathedral  Rocks.  They  get  their  name 
from  their  resemblance  to  the  Duomo  at  Florence,  and  reach  an 
elevation  of  2660  feet  above  the  valley  floor,  one  spire  rising 
sheer  and  solitary  for  700  feet. 

Across  the  valley  and  nearly  opposite,  is  El  Capitan.  It  rises 
3300  feet,  with  an  apparently  vertical  front,  and  has  two  faces 
nearly  at  right  angles  with  each  other.  It  projects  out  into  the 
valley  like  a  buttress,  and  presents  to  the  vision  at  a  single 
glance  a  superficial  area  of  more  than  four  hundred  acres.  It 
is  said  that  the  stupendous  bulk  of  El  Capitan  is  such  that  it 
can  be  seen  from  a  certain  vantage-ground  at  a  distance  of  sixty 
miles.  A  profile  of  the  giant  rock  shows  its  foot  slightly  thrust 
out  into  the  valley,  but  the  cleavage  is  so  nearly  vertical  and  the 
bulk  and  height  so  immense  as  to  make  this  one  of  the  wonders 
of  the  world. 

The  Three  Brothers  are  a  fraternal  group  a  little  beyond 
El  Capitan  and  their  resemblance  depends  upon  the  point  of  view. 
They  are  sometimes  called  the  Three  Graces.  To  the  Indians 
their  attitude  is  said  to  have  suggested  the  heads  of  frogs  sitting 
up  ready  to  leap. 


The  highest  one  of  the 
three  is  3530  feet,  and 
is  known  from  other 
points  as  Eagle  Peak. 
Its  summit  is  reached 
by  one  of  the  trails  from 
the  valley,  and  the  view- 
is  certainly  worth  hours 
of   hard   climbing. 

Sentinel  Rock  faces 
Three  Brothers  from  the 
south  wall,  and  is  a 
splintered  granite  tower 
or  spire,  very  slender, 
and  for  about  1500  feet 
below  its  apex  nearly 
perpendicular.  The  whole 
height  above  the  river  at 
its  base  is  3059  feet. 

Back  of  this  natural 
and  majestic  monument 
stands  Sentinel  Dome, 
whose  storm-worn  top  is 
4142  feet  above  the  val- 
ley. We  will  walk  over 
its  conoidal  or  onion-like 
layers  when  we  scale  the 
rim  of  the  valley. 

We  are  now  at  the  so- 
cial centre  of  Yosemite, 
and  the  hotel,  the  little 
postoffice,  a  few  shops 
and  offices,  are  gathered 
near  the  bridge  across  the 
Merced,  and  opposite  the 
great  waterfall  called 
after  the  valley. 

Seen  from  the  valley 
centre,  Yosemite  Falls 
seem  insignificant.  It  is, 
in  fact,  about  thirty-five 
feet  wide,  and  when  the 
stream  is  full  the  roar 
can  be  heard  all  over  the 
valley,  and  the  shock 
of  its  descent  shakes  win- 
dows a  mile  away.  Half 
way  across  the  valley  it 
is  hard  to  realize  that 
this     volume     of     white 


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Bridal  Veil  Falls. 


water  plunges  2600  feet 
— a  half  mile.  As  you 
walk  toward  it  along  the 
footpath  it  is  seen  be- 
tween the  trees,  and 
seems  almost  an  un- 
broken fall  from  its  gran- 
ite lip  to  its  final  impact 
on  the  valley  floor ;  and 
from  this  point  the 
height,  the  volume  of 
water,  the  gray  and  yel- 
low granite  wall,  the 
green  foliage  that  frames 
the  picture,  and  the  gra- 
dations of  color  and 
movements  of  the  de- 
scending torrent  combine 
to  make  it  the  most  won- 
derful and  beautiful 
waterfall  in  all  the  world. 
In  reality  it  is  not  one, 
but  three.  Time  was, 
doubtless,  when  it  leaped 
from  the  topmost  edge  of 
the  cliff  3000  feet  to  the 
valley  floor,  but  some 
convulsion  has  shaken 
down  the  original  front 
to  a  point  half  way  down 
and  the  first  fall  is  now 
1600  feet  of  sheer  de- 
scent. Then  comes  a 
series  of  cascades,  partly 
hidden,  through  600  feet 
downward,  and  a  final 
leap,  straight  down,  of 
400  feet. 

Across  the  valley  the 
south  wall  thrusts  out  a 
massive  shoulder,  which 
is  well  named  Glacier 
Point.  At  no  other  point 
is  the  wall  so  bare  and 
sheer,  and  you  look  up, 
almost  from  its  solid 
foot  3234  feet  (the  fig- 
ures are  from  the  Geo- 
logical Survey).  The 
flag      which      sometimes 


El  Capitan  and  the  Merced. 


The  Yo Semite  Va 


floats  from  the  brink  of  the  precipice  is  eighteen  feet  long,  but  you  see 
it  dimly,  and  it  looks  no  larger  than  a  lady's  handkerchief.  An  iron 
railing  at  the  points  protects  visitors,  and  from  here  fireworks  are  often 
displayed;  coals  and  torches  from  bonfires  are  sent  streaming  over  the 
rim,  blazing  sacks  saturated  with  oil  are  allowed  to  drift  down,  while 
thundering  bombs  accompany  the  improvised  pyrotechnics.  No  such 
dead  wall  for  set  pieces  ever  was  found,  but  if  the  most  ambitious  ever 
attempted  were  fastened  half  way  up  this  gigantic  cliff,  how  paltry  it 
would  seem. 

A  little  later  we  will  look  out  over  the  great  amphitheatre  of  the 
valley  and  the  mountains  from  this  majestic  point. 

Across  the  valley  stands  Yosemite  Point,  flanked  on  the  east  by 
Indian  Canyon,  so  called  because  by  means  of  it  the  Indians  of  early 
days  used  it  to  enter  or  leave  the  valley. 

The  Royal  Arches  will  attract  attention  as  you  reach  the  head  of 
the  valley.  They  are  in  the  vast  vertical  wall  whose  highest  summit 
is  North  Dome.  The  Arches  are  recessed  curves  in  the  granite  front, 
very  impressive  because  of  their  size,  and  made  by  the  action  of  frost. 


om  Artists''  Point. 


Much  of  the  rock  here  is  formed  in  layers  hke  the  structure  of  an 
onion,  and  the  Arches  are  the  fractured  edges  of  these  layers.  Wash- 
ington's Column  is  the  angle  of  the  wall  at  this  point — a  kind  of  archi- 
tectural tower  completing  the  massive  wall  at  the  very  head  of  the  valley. 
Over  against  it,  but  looking  down  the  valley,  stands  the  highest  rock 
of  all  the  region — the  great  South  Dome,  or  Half  Dome,  as  it  is  often 
called.  It  is  8927  feet  above  sea  level,  or  nearly  5000  feet  above  the 
valley.  Its  massive  front  is  cleft  straight  down  for  about  2000  feet, 
and  the  fractured  face  is  turned  outward  and  polished  by  wind  and 
storm  until  it  looks  smooth  as  a  floor.  The  side  of  the  Half  Dome 
turned  toward  the  southwest  has  the  curve  of  a  great  helmet  and  is  so 
smooth  and  precipitous  as  almost  to  defy  the  most  adventurous  mountain 
climber.    Milton  wrote  of 


"A  rock  piled  up  to  the  clouds 
Conspicuous  afar," 

and  this  describes  the  Half  Dome.    It  dominates  the  valley  from  almost 
every  point. 


Yosemite  Falls  from  the  Merced. 


Passing  up  Tenaya 
Canyon  we  come  to  Mir- 
ror Lake.  It  is  but  a 
pond — a  widening  or  ex- 
p  a  n  s  i  o  n  of  Tenaya 
Creek — and  the  dust  is 
sifted  over  it  and  wind- 
blown about  its  edges. 
But  when  the  slow  sun 
creeps  over  the  great 
flank  of  the  South  Dome 
— the  visit  should  always 
be  made  before  sunrise — 
everything  in  this  little 
mirror  is  wonderfully 
reduplicated.  The  effect 
is    very   pleasing. 

UP  THE  TRAILS 

Visitors  to  this  moun- 
tain valley  should  plan 
for  time  to  see  it  from 
every  point  and  to  see 
all  the  places  of  interest. 
The  stages  by  way  of 
Raymond  reach  the  val- 
ley at  noon  and  the 
afternoon  can  be  de- 
voted to  what  is  called 
the  "round  trip"  or 
Meadow  Drive  on  the 
floor  of  the  valley.  But 
next  morning  you  will 
do  well  to  call  the  Saddle 
Train  and  take  a  trail  to 
the  rim  of  the  valley. 
Especially  will  you  need 
to  see  Vernal  and  Ne- 
vada Falls.  This  will 
occupy  a  day.  The  trail 
leads  up  the  rushing 
Merced,  past  the  "Happy 
Isles"  and  along  the  bot- 
tom of  a  wild  canyon  by 
Titanic  walls.  Panorama 
Rock  is  4000  feet  above 
the  river,  almost  perpen- 
dicular, and  at  once  the 
highest    and    most    con- 


Vernal  Falls. 


tinuous  wall  of  the 
Yosemite.  It  is  written 
over  by  trickling  water 
and  painted  by  purple 
lichen,  and  perhaps  no- 
where else  do  you  feel  so 
impressively  the  geologic 
terribleness  of  the  region. 
From  the  bridge  over  the 
river  half  a  mile  away 
you  catch  a  glimpse  of 
Vernal  Falls,  a  thing  of 
glorious  beauty  in  the 
dark  canyon.  The  river 
is  nearly  eighty  feet  wide 
and  drops  sheer  down 
350  feet.  The  spray  is 
driven  outward  like 
smoke,  and  everything 
of  plant  and  grass,  moss 
and  fern,  is  kept  vividly 
green  by  the  incessant 
baptism.  The  trail  leads 
directly  to  the  top  of  the 
fall. 

A  little  beyond — less 
than  a  mile — is  the  Ne- 
vada Fall,  where  the 
same  stream  plunges 
downward  700  feet.  The 
descent  is  not  sheer.  The 
great  snowy  torrent 
glances  from  the  sloping 
rock  about  midway  just 
enough  to  make  a  com- 
pound curve.  Seen  from 
the  side  as  you  climb  to 
the  top,  or  seen  from  be- 
low, it  is  a  wonderfully 
imposing    spectacle. 

The  setting  of  the  fall 
is  impressive,  Great 
Liberty  Cap,  a  granite 
pile  rising  more  than 
2000  feet  above  the  pool 
at  its  base,  with  Mount 
Broderick  just  back  of  it 
and  the  Half  Dome  near 
at  hand. 


JVevada  Falls. 


South  Dome,  Royal  Arches  and  Washuigton  Column, 


Another  day  may  well  be  spent  on  the  trail  to  Yosemite  Falls 
and  Eagle  Rock.  From  the  top  we  climb  down  to  the  lip  of  the 
fall,  nearly  five  hundred  feet  below  the  actual  rim  of  the  rock 
wall,  and  from  this  point  we  have  an  inspiring  view  at  once  of 
the  plunging  torrent  and  of  the  peaceful  valley  far  below.  A  few 
miles  takes  us  to  Eagle  Rock,  where  a  still  wider  and  finer  view 
awaits  us.  It  is  at  once  sublime  and  beautiful,  and  your  vision 
of  the  lovely  valley,  shut  in  by  its  frowning  rock  walls,  will  never 
be   forgotten. 

If  equal  to  it,  go  on  to  the  top  of  El  Capitan.  It  is  some- 
thing to  see  the  "topside"  of  the  great  Captain,  and  from  here 
the  lower  section  of  the  valley  is  well  seen. 

The  third  day  will  be  given  to  Glacier  Point.  The  trail  is 
a  wonderful  zigzag,  a  triumph  of  engineering.  And  how  skil- 
fully the  animals  take  this  corkscrew  up  the  granite  wall !  Watch 
that  one  just  ahead  of  you.  See  how  he  goes  to  the  farthest 
verge  of  the  angle.  He  projects  himself  beyond  the  trail,  then 
makes  a  fulcrum  of  his  hind  legs  and  turns  with  entire  gravity 
and  deliberation,  and  goes  on  to  repeat  the  process  at  the  next 
angle.  The  mountain  mule,  or  mustang,  knows  somethmg  about 
the  law  of  gravitation  and  equipoise,  and  often  evinces  quiet  con- 
tempt for  the  sagacity  of  his  rider.  Viewed  from  the  rear  the 
appearance  of  a  party  on  the  Glacier  Point  trail  is  often  pic- 
turesque.    There  are  no  side-saddles,  and  the  most  timid  astride 


The  Happy  Isles  of  the  Merced  River. 


these  wise  beasts  on  the  steep  trail  are  wholly  safe.  No  acci- 
dents occur,  and,  though  unused  muscles  will  complain,  the  ride 
is  not  exhaustmg. 

On  the  way  you  will  pause  often  and  look  back  to  enjoy  the 
widening  prospect,  and  at  Union  Point,  2350  feet  above  the  river 
all  will  stop  and  rest  a  little  on  a  slight  plateau  or  bench  of  the 
gigantic  wall.  Just  below  stands  an  interesting  shaft  of  granite 
well  named  Agassiz  Column.  It  is  eighty-five  feet  high  and 
Its  base  is  eroded  until  it  looks  too  frail  to  support  the  greater 
bulk  of  rock  above  it.  It  is  a  curiously  balanced  pillar,  set  on 
the  side  of  a  tremendous  cliff,  almost  alone. 

Glacier  Point  is  perhaps  the  most  popular  objective  point 
m  the  whole  region.  It  is  so  by  reason  of  its  accessibility  its 
commandmg  position,  its  great  vertical  height  and  the  unspeak- 
able sublimity  of  the  view  from  its  projecting  rocks.  There  is 
a  comfortable  hotel  on  the  summit,  and  the  stage  will  here  meet 
parties  which  desire  to  go  out  of  the  valley  by  this  route  The 
projecting  rocks  which  mark  the  Point  are  but  a  few  yards  from 
the  hotel.  It  is  exactly  3234  feet  from  the  top  of  the  jutting 
and  insecure-looking  rock  upon  which  "nervy"  people  stand  to 
be  photographed,  down  to  the  floor  of  the  valley,  and  a  pebble 
dropped  from  this  point  will  touch  nothing  until  it  strikes  the 
talus,  3000  feet  straight  down.  Most  of  us  who  know  what  it 
IS  to  look  over  into  that  gulf  are  inclined  to  let  somebody  else 
drop  the  pebble.  The  hotel  looks  but  a  hut,  stately  trees  are  mere 
shrubs,  and  men  are  but  dots  on  the  valley  floor. 

Much  of  the  northern  rim  of  the  valley  lies  before  you  on  the 
same  level  upon  which  you  stand,  with  a  background  of  higher 
mountains.  Tliere  is  Eagle  Rock;  here  Yosemite  Falls,  shining 
in  full  light;  opposite  are  the  Royal  Arches,  the  North  Dome 
and  beyond,  the  Basket  Dome;  Mirror  Lake  is  but  a  splash  of 
light  in  the  canyon ;  the  great  fractured  face  of  the  South  Dome 
with  the  outlme  of  its  splendid  helmet  unmarred,  is  above  you,' 
and  beyond  is  the  naked  wind-swept  granite  of  Clouds'  Rest 
between  you  and  the  sky;  far  to  the  right  is  seen  the  majestic 
Cap  of  Liberty,  with  Mount  Lyell,  Mount  Starr  King,  Mount 
Clark  and  the  Obelisk,  while,  shifting  your  position  but  a  little, 
Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls  are  seen  shining  in  the  dark  canyon! 
No  wonder  a  veteran  geologist  called  the  view  from  the  point 
"the  grandest  sight  on  earth."  It  is  a  picture  which  the  poorest 
may   enjoy  and   the   richest  cannot   buy. 

At  the  extreme  projection  of  the  shoulder  we  are  on,  is  a 
spot  from  which  the  five  great  waterfalls  of  Yosemite  can  be 
seen,  namely.  Upper  and  Lower  Yosemite,  Vernal,  Nevada  and 
Ilhllouette.  The  spot  is  called  Sierra  Point.  The  few  who  have 
sought  It  out  speak  of  it  as  the  one  point  of  supreme  beauty  in 
this  region  of  glorious  views. 

There  is  pleasure  in  the  sunset  and  the  sunrise  from  this 
point,  and  it  is  worth  tarrying  for,  to  see  the  last  rays  light  up 
Vernal  and   Nevada   Falls   when   their   setting  is  already   of  the 


25 


night  and  darkness ;  or  in  a  walk  in  the  early  morning  to  the 
top  of  Sentinel  Dome,  or  down  the  fine  trail  to  Illillouette  Creek 
and  its  500-foot  plunge ;  or  a  horseback  ride  along  the  rim  of  the 
south  wall  via  Pohono  trail,  stopping  at  the  "Fissures,"  those 
curious  crevices  in  the  rocks,  one  four  feet  across  and  several 
hundred  feet  deep.  You  will  do  well  to  lie  down  on  your 
stomach,  crawl  to  the  edge  and  look  over  into  the  abyss.  You 
will  never  forget  it. 

At  Glacier  Point,  if  you  wish,  the  stage  will  take  you  up  on 
the  return  trip,  going  out  past  Ostrander  Rocks,  Mono  and  Para- 
gon Meadows,  and  intersecting  the  other  road  where  it  crosses 
Indian   Creek  under  the   shadows   of   Chinquapin. 

THE  BIG  TREES  Returning  to  Wawona  we  stop  to  look,  to 
wonder  at  and  admire  the  most  gigantic  and 
beautiful  trees  in  the  world,  for  with  the  sequoia  greatness  and 
grace,  size  and  symmetry  go  together.  It  is  alone  among  the 
trees  of  the  world.  If  its  wood  was  as  hard  and  serviceable  as 
that  of  its  cousin,  the  S.  Sempervirens,  the  S.  Gigantea  would 
be  an  ideal  tree  in  fact  as  it  is  in  form. 

The  Indian  name  for  these  trees  is  "Wawona."  The 
standing  tree  called  Wawona  is  tunnelled,  a  driveway 
being  cut  through  it  ten  feet  high  and  six  to  ten  feet 
wide.  Through  this  arch  the  loaded  stage  coach  drives. 
The  tree  is  27  feet  in  diameter  and  about  200  feet  high. 
The  Grizzly  Giant  is  93  feet  7  inches  in  circumference  and  it  is 
believed  by  John  Muir  to  have  reached  maturity,  even  old  age. 
Mr.  Muir  well  calls  this  tree  the  king  of  all  the  conifers  of  the 
world  and  thinks  that  these  giants  probably  live  five  thousand 
years  or  more.  The  great  trees  were  named  in  honor  of 
Sequoyah,  a  Cherokee  Indian,  born  about  1770  in  Alabama.  He 
invented  an  alphabet  and  a  written  language  for  his  tribe,  and 
slipped  into  immortality  when  Endlicher,  a  distinguished  botanist, 
gave  his  name  to  the  Big  Trees.  Sequoyah's  English  name  was 
George  Guess. 

It  is  impossible  to  see  these  great  trees  without  emotion.  The 
eye  at  first  does  not  adjust  itself  to  their  vast  proportions.  But 
wait  a  little.  Lie  down  among  them ;  study  the  great  fluted  col- 
umns ;  note  the  size  of  the  limb  yonder  where  the  symmetry  of  the 
trunk  is  first  broken  a  hundred  feet  from  the  ground.  That 
limb  is  six  feet  in  diameter,  larger  than  any  tree  to  be  found 
to-day  in  the  Eastern  States.  Thus  the  trees  will  grow  upon 
you  every  hour  until  you  feel  like  taking  off  your  hat  in  the 
presence  of  this   unexampled  life. 

"The  tops  of  many  of  them  are  broken  off,  showing  that 
decay  has  already  begun" — so  one  of  the  books  says  of  them. 
No,  no :  broken  by  storms,  or  smitten  by  lightning,  but  not  by 
decay.  Fallen,  they  waste  away  rather  than  rot.  Trees  that  were 
thrown  down  before  the  Pilgrims  landed  at  Plymouth  Rock  are  in 
the  Sierras  to-day,  with  clear,  bright  color,  and  sound  at  heart. 

27 


It  is  not  certain  but  that  one  or  two  may  have  lain  for  a  thousand 
years,  and  they  resound  to-day  to  the  stroke  of  axe  or  hammer. 
As  a  species  they  show  no  signs  of  suffering  or  hint  of  extinction. 


We  have  sketched  but  briefly  the  scenic  wonders  of  this  whole 
region.  There  is  nothing  like  it  in  the  world :  no  trees  so  truly 
ideal  in  symmetry  and  yet  so  immense  in  girth ;  no  valley  so 
beautiful  and  yet  so  awful,  where  such  Titanic  forces  have 
wrought,  yet  have  left  a  park-like  floor,  with  a  peaceful  stream 
flowing  through  flowery  meadows  and  groves  of  trees,  while 
vertical  walls,  more  than  3000  feet  high,  fence  it  in,  and  streams 
break  over  them  in  cataracts,  one  at  least  fifteen  times  the  height 
of  Niagara,  and  as  majestic  in  volume  as  it  is  matchless  in  grace. 
It  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

VALLEY  ITINERARIES 

The  tours  which  may  be  made  in  the  Valley  and  its  immediate 
environment  are  varied,  and  the  chief  aim  is  to  crowd  as  much 
as   possible   into   a   few   hours. 

ROUND  THE  VALLEY  Visitors  who  enter  by  the  Wawona  route 
arrive  about  midday,  and,  as  it  is  then  too 
late  to  consider  any  of  the  trails,  the  most  acceptable  way  of 
utilizing  the  time  is  to  take  the  carriage  drive  around  the  Valley 
meadows,   a   trip   of   about   sixteen   miles. 

GLACIER  POINT  VIA  THE  FALLS    ^^'^    ^rip    that    yields    the    most 

m  variety  and  grandeur  is  that 
to  Glacier  Point  by  way  of  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls  and  return 
by  the  direct  trail  under  the  brow  of  the  Sentinel.  It  presents 
a  great  number  of  striking  features  and  reveals  the  Valley.  The 
start  is  usually  about  7  o'clock,  in  wagons,  in  time  to  reach 
JMirror  Lake  by  sunrise.  Then  return  a  half  mile  or  so  to  the 
foot  of  the  Anderson  trail,  where  saddle  animals  are  in  waiting 
for  the  exhilarating  climb.  The  return  trail  leads  down  the 
west  side  of  Glacier  Point  to  the  Valley  floor  a  mile  west  of 
Sentinel   Hotel. 

A  very  pleasant  arrangement  for  those  who  have  time  is  to 
remain  over  night  at  the  Glacier  Point  Hotel  and  take  the  trail 
to  the  summit  of  Sentinel  Dome  before  returning  the  next  day. 
Another  good  plan  is  to  make  all  other  trips  in  the  Valley  first 
and  reserve  the  Glacier  Point  trip  to  the  last,  taking  the  stage 
from  the  summit  homeward. 

POHONO  TRAIL      J.^   ^^^^^    p°"1;i ^rr^S'  1?°^"^   "''n    ^^''   p^""^!' 
Dome  to  Profile  Cliff,  Fissures,  Dewey  Point, 

Crocker  Point,  Stanford  Point  and  Old  Inspiration  Point,  skirt- 
ing the  south  rim  of  the  Valley  to  Fort  Monroe. 
EAGLE  PEAK         ^^^   ^^'^^    most    important    trip    is    the    trail    to 
Eagle  Peak  and  is  about  seven  and  a  half  miles 
one  way.     It  is  a  full  day's  journey.     The  altitude  exceeds  that 

29 


Big  Tree  Wawona,  Mariposa  Grove. 


of  Glacier  Point  by  several  hundred  feet,  but  the  views  are  not 
quite  so  commanding.  The  falls  are  in  full  view  from  the  trail 
only  occasionally. 

riOUDS'   REST     ^^^^^  ^^^P  ^°  Clouds'  Rest,  though  a  hard  day's 
work,    is   popular,   and   is   included   in   the   ma- 
jority of  tours   when  time  will  permit.     It   is   eleven   miles   one 
way  and  includes  the  Anderson  trail  to  the  top  of  Nevada  Falls. 

n-ruco  TniiDQ  The  lighter  and  easier  tours  are  to  Mirror 
OTMtK  lUUKS     ^^^^^   -^^ppy  jgj^^^   Vernal   and   Nevada  Falls, 

or  the  top  of  Lower  Yosemite. 

WHAT  TO  CARRY  ^^^^^  pounds  free  baggage  allowed  on  the 
stage.  Take  for  your  own  comfort  few 
extras  and  let  them  be  for  use.  Wraps  will  be  necessary  and 
ladies  will  need  a  light  and  a  heavy  suit,  as  morning  and  evening 
air  is  apt  to  be  cool.  A  duster  and  a  soft  hat  are  convenient  for 
staging.  A  riding-suit  for  ladies,  adapted  to  the  trail,  a  pair  of 
strong  walking-shoes  and  a  pair  of  leggins  are  desirable.  If 
much  climbing  is  to  be  done,  shoes  should  be  hobnailed.  A  small 
field  glass  or  a  pair  of  opera  glasses  will  occasionally  be  useful. 
Your  own  toilet  articles  reduce  to  a  minimum.  Laundry  work 
can  be  done  quickly  to  order  while  in  the  Valley. 

HOTELS  AND  CAMPS  ^he  accommodations  in  the  Valley  are 
ample.  Ihe  Sentmel  Hotel,  with  its 
main  building,  annex  and  cottages,  affords  excellent  entertain- 
ment, ranging  from  $3  to  $4  a  day.  The  camp  auxiliary  gives 
almost  as  good  accommodations  for  $2  a  day,  or  $12  a  week. 
Camp  Curry  provides  abundant  comforts  for  $2  a  day.  Camp 
Yosemite  is  at  the  foot  of  Yosemite  Falls.  Camp  Glacier  ad- 
joining Glacier  Point  Hotel.  Camp  Wawona  is  at  the  Hotel 
Wawona.     Rates  at  all  camps  $2  per  day. 

The  tents  of  the  camps  vary  in  size  to  accommodate  one  or 
more  persons  and  are  fitted  with  carpets,  spring  and  wool  mat- 
tresses  and  plenty  of  bedding. 

Trained  saddle-horses  may  be  hired  for  from  $2.50  to  $4, 
according  to  trip ;  guide,  $3  a  day.  These  rates  are  fixed  by 
the  State  and  visitors  need  not  fear  imposition. 

Via  Raymond  and  Wawona. 

Tuc  DccT  DniiTc  By  rail  of  the  Southern  Pacific  to  Ray- 
THE  BEST  ROUTE       ^^^^^^^    ^^^^^^^^    ^^^    ^^^^^    ^^    ^j^^    Yosemite 

Stage  &  Turnpike  Co.,  thirty-nine  miles  to  Wawona,  thence 
twenty-six  miles  to  the  Valley.  This  is  probably  the  most  ex- 
tensive stage  system  in  the  West  and  is  celebrated  for  its  superior 
facilities  and  splendid  management. 

Thirty  miles  of  this  road  have  all  been  oiled,  the  remainder 
of  the  distance  well  sprinkled  with  water  during  the  dry  and 
dusty  periods,  thus  forming  the  most  perfect  stage  road  known. 


Visitors  arrive  at  Raymond  in  a  sleeping-car  early  in  the 
morning  and  leave  about  7  oclock  on  the  stage,  taking  lunch 
at  Ahwahnee,  a  fine  half-way  house  situated  in  one  of  the 
prettiest  of  mountain  meadows.  Wawona,  one  of  the  largest  and 
best  known  mountain  resorts  in  the  West,  also  under  the  stage 
company's  management,  is  reached  about  6  p.  m.^  and  a  halt  is 
called  for  the  night.  The  journey  is  continued  the  following 
morning  and  Yosemite  reached  at  noon.  A  special  stage  leaves 
Raymond  at  6  a.  m.  and  arrives  at  Yosemite  at  6  p.  m.  This  is 
for  the  convenience  of  those  whose  time  is  limited. 

It  should  be  noted  that  this  is  the  only  route  which  includes 
the  Mariposa,  the  finest  grove  of  Big  Trees,  and  Wawona,  by  far 
the  best  hotel  in  the  mountains.  The  oiled  road,  the  comfort- 
able coaches  and  the  superb  scenery  make  this  route  the  first 
choice.  It  is,  too,  the  only  route  which  offers  a  view  of  the 
Valley  from  Inspiration  and  Artist's  Points,  and  which  brings 
the  visitor  out  at  will  via  Glacier  Point. 

Meals   en   route   cost  fifty  cents. 

WAWONA  HOTEL  V  ,''\^'^' }^i''^'-  were  lacking,  this  mountain 
hotel  and  Mariposa  Grove  would  make  the 
Raymond  route  preeminent.  The  location  is  well-nigh  ideal : 
a  graceful  indentation  in  the  giant  hills,  with  mountain  meadow, 
crystal  trout  stream,  several  dainty  lakes,  ice-cold  springs,  the 
tumbling  Chilnualna  Falls  roaring  down  2000  feet  with  foam  and 
spray,  the  whole  framed  by  lofty  peaks  and  noble  forest  trees,  it 
is  "beautiful  for  situation."  Many  visitors  stop  here  for  days 
and  weeks  every  season,  and  experienced  travelers  find  no  place 
more  beautiful,  restful  and  refreshing.  It  is  widely  noted  as  one 
of  the  most  popular  mountain  resorts  in  the  West. 

Oil  the  stage  route  to  and  from  Yosemite  visitors  can  plan  to 
stay  as  long  as  they  wish,  and  then  be  taken  on  their  way.  The 
elevation  is  about  4500  feet,  and  from  June  to  October  the  air  is 
like  the  rarest  Indian  summer,  while  ferns,  azaleas,  Washington 
and  Mariposa  lilies,  and  a  whole  kingdom  of  wild  flowers  diffuse 
aromas  and  spread  opulent  colors  of  many  kinds. 

As  a  point  from  which  to  study  the  Big  Trees,  or  a  resting- 
place    from    which    to    visit    them,    this    delightful    hotel    is    very 
convenient.     By  trail  the  distance  is  easily  covered  on  foot  and  a 
quiet  day  among  the  great  trees  is  full  of  enjoyment. 
piiRi  irATinN^  I"   addition   to   this    descriptive   booklet   the 

KUBLiUAiiuwa  Southern  Pacific  publishes  a  beautiful  souve- 

nir album  of  views  of  the  Yosemite,  which  will  be  sent  upon 
application  for  ten  cents.  A  folder  is  also  issued,  giving  the 
round-trip  rates  from  principal  points  to  the  Yosemite,  including 
five  and  ten  days'  accommodations  at  the  camps,  and  the  time 
of  trains  and  stage  coaches.  As  time  schedules  are  always  sub- 
ject to  change,  the  latest  issue  should  be  consulted  before  taking 
the  trip. 


A.  189.     (3-27-05-25  M.) 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC    PUBLICATIONS 


The  following  books,  descriptive  of  the  different  sections  of  country  named, 
have  been  prepared  with  great  care  from  notes  and  data  gathered  by  local 
agents  with  a  special  eye  to  fulness  and  accuracy.  They  are  up-to-date  hand- 
books, about  five  by  seven  inches  in  size,  profusely  illustrated  from  the  best 
photographs,  and  form  a  series  invaluable  to  the  tourist,  the  settler  and  the 
investor.  They  will  be  sent  to  any  address,  postage  paid,  on  receipt  of  ten 
cents  each,  twenty-five  cents  for  three,  or  thirty  cents  for  the  four  first  named 
California  books : 
The   Sacramento   Valley   of    California,       The    Coast    Country   of    California,   128 

112    pages.  pages. 

The   San   Joaquin  Valley  of   California,        California     South     of     Tehachapi,     104 

112   pages.  pages. 

Yosemite  Valley  Booklet,  32  pages, 


5x7,   5    cents. 


The  New  Arizona,  48  pages,  ixlVz  in., 
5  cents. 

The  New  Nevada,  56  pages,  4x7i^  in., 
5  cents.  (New  edition  in  prepara- 
tion.) 

Big  Tree  Booklet,  20  pages,  7x10  inch, 
10   cents. 


Luther   Burbank,  by  Edward  J.  Wick- 
son,  48  pages,  7x10  in.,   10  cents. 

Yosemite     National     Park     Album,     3G 
pages,    7x51/^,   10   cents. 

Wayside      Notes      Along      the      Sunset 
Route,  88  pages,  5x7,  5  cents. 


The  following  publications,  most  of  which  are  profusely  illustrated,  will  be 
sent  free  of  charge,  but  one  cent  for  each  in  stamps  should  be  enclosed  for 
postage : 


Big    Tree    Folder. 

Big    Tree    Primer. 

California    Climatic    Map,    folder. 

California   in    Miniature,   folder. 

California's      Netherlands. 

Coast  Line  Resorts,  folder. 

Del   Monte   Folder. 

Del    Monte    Golf. 

Eat  California   Fruit. 

Giant   Forest    Folder. 

Hotels  and   Resorts,  28  pages. 

Kings  River  Canyon,  folder. 

Lake  Tahoe   Resort,  folder. 

Land  of  Opportunity,  by  A.  J.  Wells. 


New  Santa  Cruz,  folder. 

Orange    Primer. 

Oregon    Map,  folder. 

Oregon,  Washington,  Idaho. 

Outdoor  Life  in  California. 

Pacific   Grove,   booklet. 

Plea  for  the  Old  California   Names. 

Prune    Primer. 

Reclamation     of     Nevada. 

Roads  of  Paso   Robles. 

Settlers'   Primer. 

Shasta  Resorts,  folder. 

Side-Trip    Excursions. 

Yosemite  Valley,  folder. 


Requests  should  be  addressed  to  ADVERTISING  BUREAU,  SOUTH- 
ERN PACIFIC,  907  Merchants'  Exchange  Building,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


CHAS.  S.  Fee, 

Passenger  Traffic  Manager. 


T. 


S.   GOODMAN, 

General  Passenger  Agent. 


SUNSET 


LIBRflRY  OF  CONGRESS 


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