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Full text of "The Yosemite, California"




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YOSEMITE VALLEY 

THIS wonderful place will never cease to attract visitors. If 
one has seen all the rest of the world, and has left this 
Valley out, he still lacks something in his experiences. 
There is a note of wonder which he has never struck; a sense of 
sublimity which has never been stirred ; a mingled grandeur and 
beauty of which he has never dreamed. And if, having seen 
it, he felt equal to describing it, he would be as exceptional in 
his egotism as Yosemite is in its greatness. The first white man 
who saw it was probably Dr. Bunnell, in the winter of 1849-50. 
His first glimpse was of El Capitan, and from a long way off. 
He was ascending the old Bear Valley trail from Redley's Ferry 
on the Merced River, when "an immense cliff loomed apparently 
to the summit of the mountains." He "looked upon this awe- 
inspiring column with wonder and admiration," but inquiries con- 
cerning that locality were fruitless, and it was not until March, 
185 1, that Dr. Bunnell again saw the great rock. He was then 
a member of the Mariposa Battalion in pursuit of hostile Indians. 
The place was Mt. Beatitude, above New Inspiration Point. 
"Suddenly we came in full view of the Valley. The immensity 
of rock I had seen in my vision on the old Bear Valley trail, 
forty miles away, was here presented to my astonished gaze. The 
locality of the mysterious cliff was there revealed, its proportions 
enlarged and perfected. * * * None but those who have vis- 
ited this most wonderful valley can ever imagine the feeling with 
which I looked upon the view that was there presented." 

It is one story, from the first spectator to the last — the limita- 
tions of human language. 

Yosemite lies in the heart of the Sierra Nevada ]\Iountains, 
about 150 miles from San Francisco as the crow flies, a little south 
of east in direction, its elevation about the center of the valley 
4,000 feet above sea level. In form it is somewhat irregular, 
and its trend is northeast and southwest. It is closed at the 
upper or eastern end, and partially open at the other, forming 
thus a vast cul-de-sac. Its length is about seven miles, and its 
width from one-half to one and one-fourth miles. The valley 
has recently been receded by the State of California to the 
United States, and will hereafter be taken care of by the National 
Government as one of its system of national parks. The original 
grant was fifteen miles in length, and in width "one mile back 
from the main edge of the precipice on each side of the valley." 
The recession of this territory now places it on a par with the 
Yellowstone National Park in all matters of management and 
improvement, and the fostering care and generosity of the Gov- 
ernment will doubtless greatly increase the facilities for seeing 
and enjoying this beautiful and unrivaled region. 



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The floor of the valley is nearly level, the Merced River, 
which flows through it, falling about sixty-three feet in its 
course. More than 3,000 acres are meadow and pasture, and 
trees and groves make of it a natural park. The walls which 
shut it in are nearly perpendicular. They are remarkable at 
once for their great height, their vertical character, and the 
little talus or debris at their feet. This is part of the charm 
of this great valley. Its floor is not a chaos of fallen rocks. 
Green grove, emerald meadow, flowery pasture, crystal river, 
crowd up to the solid white feet of lofty precipices, and one 
looks up at an angle of 90 degrees to mountain summits 3,000- 
5,000 feet above him in the zenith. From the twentieth story 
window of the Masonic Temple, Chicago, you look down three 
hundred feet to the street below. From Glacier Point you look 
down the perpendicular wall of granite 3234 feet to the Valley 
floor. 

If the jNIasonic Temple were placed in the valley we should 
see only a tiny rectangle indicating the roof. If another Masonic 
Temple were placed on top of the first and another on top of 
the second, and another and another until we had five, even 
then the accumulated height would scarcely be discernible from 
Glacier Point above. On top of these five "sky-scrapers" add 
Washington's Monument (555 ft.) and on its capstone add the 
Eififel Tower (984 ft.) and still we look down two hundred 
feet to the top of the Eiffel Tower. How trivial are the works 
of man when set beside just one rock of the Grand Architect of 
the Universe. 

Descriptions of such a place are like pictures of bread to the 
hungry, and the only reason for this little book is to persuade 
you by a recital of the facts to go to the feast. You should 
see Yosemite and — not die, but cherish for all the rest of life 
the sublime and beautiful vision. 

You cannot find Yosemite in literature and only suggestions 
of it in art. Neither the camera nor the brush of the painter 
can give you the radiant atmosphere in which in midsummer the 
valley lies, the play of light and shadow on granite wall and 
tumbling cataract, nor the overpowering sense of massiyeness 
and grandeur. You must stand on the heights and take in the 
whole amazing composite picture, or look up the sheer walls 
from the valley floor, where glorious waterfalls seem to drop 
from the blue sky, to realize that there is a time for silence, and 
a place where speech is almost an impertinence. 

If you can see but one place in California, by all means let 
that one place be Yosemite. No words, spoken or written, or 
painting by a master hand, can interpret its sublimity. 
THF WAY THPRE Routes and details of travel will be found 

inb WAT intKt ^^ p^g^ ^^^ ^^^^ g^^^ special features of the 

Raymond-Wawona route may be here pointed out. Routes are 
first trails, and these are made by a kind of instinct. The moun- 
taineer finds the best grades and the finest camping places. 



\yawona is "Clark's" of the early day. Its associations are 
historical and literary. This is ground traversed by Whitney's 
Geological Survey. Here Longhurst fried flapjacks for the men 
of the theodolite and barometer; here the swollen Chowchilla 
nearly drowned mules and scientists, and here King's one-eyed 
mule, Napoleon, piloted Cotter and himself to safety through a 
snow-storm by night. If you care for King's delightful book, 
"Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada," you will be glad to go 
over some of the ground he traveled in "the sixties." 

A night ride through the San Joaquin, an early breakfast at 
Raymond, then the four-in-hand in the sweet morning air of 
the foothills, and over oiled roads which cling to the steep 
mountain-sides, you race beside the sparkling Merced and climb 
to the summit of the Chowchillas amid some of the finest scenery 
of the great range. If one is to keep alive the traditions of the 
best days of coaching in the mountains, and can appreciate the 
exhilaration of a ride in the open air, amid splendid forests and 
in the grandest, most beautiful and hospitable mountain range 
in the world, he will start for Yosemite from Raymond. On 
this road is the greatest staging in the world. The noon- 
day meal is at Ahwahnee in a pleasant mountain meadow. Here- 
abouts the Mariposa lily is found, with a picture of the butterfly, 
the "Mariposa" on each petal. Grub Gulch is passed, once 
the scene of great mining activity. The Fresno River supplies 




Hotel at Ahivahnee. 



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£/ Cap itan from the East, 



m// • .,. T^' 7^''''^^- "^'''^^ ^"^^^^^ seventy-five miles to 
Madera in the San Joaquin, on the line of the Southern Pacific 
Starveling oaks and digger pines give place to yellow oine^nd 
sugar pine the greatest of the tribe, and by 5 o'cbck we are 
sweeping down to "Wawona." If yoir visit to the Great Valley 
can be made with a little leisure, it would be a pity to miss 
this fine mountain resort with its unequalled charm of meadow 
a?e n?.7^V''?' ^f^ jaterall The falls of musical Chilnaualn^ 
are near by; a short ride will take you to the top of Signal Peak 
where If It IS not hazy you see far over the S^. Joaqfim plains.' 

nenJ^f ;i ' ""''^ '^'i'^ °^-^"' ^"'^^ ^°^th all fatigue and ex- 
pense of the journey alone, is the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees 
We will see them on our return; now we are impatient to get 
into the valley but we shall need to remember that this is the 
most famous of all the groves and is reached by no other route 
Here are the Grizzly Giant," the "Fallen Monarch," trees 
through which you will ride on the four-horse stage, with many 
of the most magnificent specimens of the sequoia to be found in 
any grove. It is but eight miles from the Hotel Wawona 

Approaching Yosemite, the first view, if not the finest, is from 
Inspiration Point. The ride from Wawona is but twenty-six miles 
and as we rush down the grade, the whole magnificent vision 
bursts upon us in a moment. It is quite unequalled by any other 
approach to the valley and is only surpassed by the view a 




J7ofeI and Cottages at Wawona. 




El Capiian from the West. 



little farther on, from what is called Artist's Point. From here 
most of the pictures of the valley are painted and you will be 
disposed to admit that the artistic feeling is right. But Inspira- 
tion Point is notable, if the name does conjure up rhetorical 
speeches and outbursts of emotion. It is a vision you have often 
wished for, but how shall you express what you feel? Most 
look with bated breath, some with brimming eye, others with 
excited exclamations. One woman gazed placidly at such a 
landscape as cannot be found elsewhere in the world, then amazed 
her neighbor by wondering "why they did not put up lace curtains 
in that dining-room at Wawona." Human nature is as sur- 
prising as Yosemite. 

IN THE VALLEY ^^.^^ °" ^^^^ right, or south wall, is Bridal 
Veil Falls. It is such a thing of beauty as 
baffles description. It slips over the lip of granite rock, 
white, ethereal, and seems to drop its tenuous film into 
the tree tops, and looks small and feeble at first, so 
overpowering is the impression of the mighty wall. But what 
grace and charm! And, as you come nearer, what sense of 
power! The highest fall in Europe is said to be the Staubbach 
or Dust Brook in Switzerland. But this one is higher, leaps 
out of a smoother channel, has greater volume of water, and is 
seen in the midst of loftier precipices. The stream is full thirty 
feet wide, and falls first a distance of six hundred feet, then 
rushes over a sloping pile of debris and drops a perpendicular 
distance of three hundred feet more. But from the chief points 
of view it seems to make but one plunge, and the effect, Prof. 
J. D. Whitney said, "is that of being nine hundred feet in vertical 
height." 

Around the shoulder behind which Bridal Veil Creek makes 
its way to the brink, are Cathedral Rocks. They get their name 
from their resemblance to the Duomo at Florence, and reach an 
elevation of 2660 feet above the valley floor, one spire rising 
sheer and solitary for 700 feet. 

Across the valley and nearly opposite, is El Capitan. It rises 
3300 feet, with an apparently vertical front, and has two faces 
nearly at right angles with each other. It projects out into the 
valley like a buttress, and presents to the vision at a single 
glance a superficial area of more than four hundred acres. It 
is said that the stupendous bulk of El Capitan is such that it 
can be seen from a certain vantage-ground at a distance of sixty 
miles. A profile of the giant rock shows its foot slightly thrust 
out into the valley, but the cleavage is so nearly vertical and the 
bulk and height so immense as to make this one of the wonders 
of the world. 

The Three Brothers are a fraternal group a little beyond 
El Capitan and their resemblance depends upon the point of view. 
They are sometimes called the Three Graces. To the Indians 
their attitude is said to have suggested the heads of frogs sitting 
up ready to leap. 



The highest one of the 
three is 3530 feet, and 
is known from other 
points as Eagle Peak. 
Its summit is reached 
by one of the trails from 
the valley, and the view- 
is certainly worth hours 
of hard climbing. 

Sentinel Rock faces 
Three Brothers from the 
south wall, and is a 
splintered granite tower 
or spire, very slender, 
and for about 1500 feet 
below its apex nearly 
perpendicular. The whole 
height above the river at 
its base is 3059 feet. 

Back of this natural 
and majestic monument 
stands Sentinel Dome, 
whose storm-worn top is 
4142 feet above the val- 
ley. We will walk over 
its conoidal or onion-like 
layers when we scale the 
rim of the valley. 

We are now at the so- 
cial centre of Yosemite, 
and the hotel, the little 
postoffice, a few shops 
and offices, are gathered 
near the bridge across the 
Merced, and opposite the 
great waterfall called 
after the valley. 

Seen from the valley 
centre, Yosemite Falls 
seem insignificant. It is, 
in fact, about thirty-five 
feet wide, and when the 
stream is full the roar 
can be heard all over the 
valley, and the shock 
of its descent shakes win- 
dows a mile away. Half 
way across the valley it 
is hard to realize that 
this volume of white 



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Bridal Veil Falls. 



water plunges 2600 feet 
— a half mile. As you 
walk toward it along the 
footpath it is seen be- 
tween the trees, and 
seems almost an un- 
broken fall from its gran- 
ite lip to its final impact 
on the valley floor ; and 
from this point the 
height, the volume of 
water, the gray and yel- 
low granite wall, the 
green foliage that frames 
the picture, and the gra- 
dations of color and 
movements of the de- 
scending torrent combine 
to make it the most won- 
derful and beautiful 
waterfall in all the world. 
In reality it is not one, 
but three. Time was, 
doubtless, when it leaped 
from the topmost edge of 
the cliff 3000 feet to the 
valley floor, but some 
convulsion has shaken 
down the original front 
to a point half way down 
and the first fall is now 
1600 feet of sheer de- 
scent. Then comes a 
series of cascades, partly 
hidden, through 600 feet 
downward, and a final 
leap, straight down, of 
400 feet. 

Across the valley the 
south wall thrusts out a 
massive shoulder, which 
is well named Glacier 
Point. At no other point 
is the wall so bare and 
sheer, and you look up, 
almost from its solid 
foot 3234 feet (the fig- 
ures are from the Geo- 
logical Survey). The 
flag which sometimes 




El Capitan and the Merced. 




The Yo Semite Va 



floats from the brink of the precipice is eighteen feet long, but you see 
it dimly, and it looks no larger than a lady's handkerchief. An iron 
railing at the points protects visitors, and from here fireworks are often 
displayed; coals and torches from bonfires are sent streaming over the 
rim, blazing sacks saturated with oil are allowed to drift down, while 
thundering bombs accompany the improvised pyrotechnics. No such 
dead wall for set pieces ever was found, but if the most ambitious ever 
attempted were fastened half way up this gigantic cliff, how paltry it 
would seem. 

A little later we will look out over the great amphitheatre of the 
valley and the mountains from this majestic point. 

Across the valley stands Yosemite Point, flanked on the east by 
Indian Canyon, so called because by means of it the Indians of early 
days used it to enter or leave the valley. 

The Royal Arches will attract attention as you reach the head of 
the valley. They are in the vast vertical wall whose highest summit 
is North Dome. The Arches are recessed curves in the granite front, 
very impressive because of their size, and made by the action of frost. 




om Artists'' Point. 



Much of the rock here is formed in layers hke the structure of an 
onion, and the Arches are the fractured edges of these layers. Wash- 
ington's Column is the angle of the wall at this point — a kind of archi- 
tectural tower completing the massive wall at the very head of the valley. 
Over against it, but looking down the valley, stands the highest rock 
of all the region — the great South Dome, or Half Dome, as it is often 
called. It is 8927 feet above sea level, or nearly 5000 feet above the 
valley. Its massive front is cleft straight down for about 2000 feet, 
and the fractured face is turned outward and polished by wind and 
storm until it looks smooth as a floor. The side of the Half Dome 
turned toward the southwest has the curve of a great helmet and is so 
smooth and precipitous as almost to defy the most adventurous mountain 
climber. Milton wrote of 



"A rock piled up to the clouds 
Conspicuous afar," 

and this describes the Half Dome. It dominates the valley from almost 
every point. 




Yosemite Falls from the Merced. 



Passing up Tenaya 
Canyon we come to Mir- 
ror Lake. It is but a 
pond — a widening or ex- 
p a n s i o n of Tenaya 
Creek — and the dust is 
sifted over it and wind- 
blown about its edges. 
But when the slow sun 
creeps over the great 
flank of the South Dome 
— the visit should always 
be made before sunrise — 
everything in this little 
mirror is wonderfully 
reduplicated. The effect 
is very pleasing. 

UP THE TRAILS 

Visitors to this moun- 
tain valley should plan 
for time to see it from 
every point and to see 
all the places of interest. 
The stages by way of 
Raymond reach the val- 
ley at noon and the 
afternoon can be de- 
voted to what is called 
the "round trip" or 
Meadow Drive on the 
floor of the valley. But 
next morning you will 
do well to call the Saddle 
Train and take a trail to 
the rim of the valley. 
Especially will you need 
to see Vernal and Ne- 
vada Falls. This will 
occupy a day. The trail 
leads up the rushing 
Merced, past the "Happy 
Isles" and along the bot- 
tom of a wild canyon by 
Titanic walls. Panorama 
Rock is 4000 feet above 
the river, almost perpen- 
dicular, and at once the 
highest and most con- 




Vernal Falls. 



tinuous wall of the 
Yosemite. It is written 
over by trickling water 
and painted by purple 
lichen, and perhaps no- 
where else do you feel so 
impressively the geologic 
terribleness of the region. 
From the bridge over the 
river half a mile away 
you catch a glimpse of 
Vernal Falls, a thing of 
glorious beauty in the 
dark canyon. The river 
is nearly eighty feet wide 
and drops sheer down 
350 feet. The spray is 
driven outward like 
smoke, and everything 
of plant and grass, moss 
and fern, is kept vividly 
green by the incessant 
baptism. The trail leads 
directly to the top of the 
fall. 

A little beyond — less 
than a mile — is the Ne- 
vada Fall, where the 
same stream plunges 
downward 700 feet. The 
descent is not sheer. The 
great snowy torrent 
glances from the sloping 
rock about midway just 
enough to make a com- 
pound curve. Seen from 
the side as you climb to 
the top, or seen from be- 
low, it is a wonderfully 
imposing spectacle. 

The setting of the fall 
is impressive, Great 
Liberty Cap, a granite 
pile rising more than 
2000 feet above the pool 
at its base, with Mount 
Broderick just back of it 
and the Half Dome near 
at hand. 




JVevada Falls. 




South Dome, Royal Arches and Washuigton Column, 



Another day may well be spent on the trail to Yosemite Falls 
and Eagle Rock. From the top we climb down to the lip of the 
fall, nearly five hundred feet below the actual rim of the rock 
wall, and from this point we have an inspiring view at once of 
the plunging torrent and of the peaceful valley far below. A few 
miles takes us to Eagle Rock, where a still wider and finer view 
awaits us. It is at once sublime and beautiful, and your vision 
of the lovely valley, shut in by its frowning rock walls, will never 
be forgotten. 

If equal to it, go on to the top of El Capitan. It is some- 
thing to see the "topside" of the great Captain, and from here 
the lower section of the valley is well seen. 

The third day will be given to Glacier Point. The trail is 
a wonderful zigzag, a triumph of engineering. And how skil- 
fully the animals take this corkscrew up the granite wall ! Watch 
that one just ahead of you. See how he goes to the farthest 
verge of the angle. He projects himself beyond the trail, then 
makes a fulcrum of his hind legs and turns with entire gravity 
and deliberation, and goes on to repeat the process at the next 
angle. The mountain mule, or mustang, knows somethmg about 
the law of gravitation and equipoise, and often evinces quiet con- 
tempt for the sagacity of his rider. Viewed from the rear the 
appearance of a party on the Glacier Point trail is often pic- 
turesque. There are no side-saddles, and the most timid astride 




The Happy Isles of the Merced River. 



these wise beasts on the steep trail are wholly safe. No acci- 
dents occur, and, though unused muscles will complain, the ride 
is not exhaustmg. 

On the way you will pause often and look back to enjoy the 
widening prospect, and at Union Point, 2350 feet above the river 
all will stop and rest a little on a slight plateau or bench of the 
gigantic wall. Just below stands an interesting shaft of granite 
well named Agassiz Column. It is eighty-five feet high and 
Its base is eroded until it looks too frail to support the greater 
bulk of rock above it. It is a curiously balanced pillar, set on 
the side of a tremendous cliff, almost alone. 

Glacier Point is perhaps the most popular objective point 
m the whole region. It is so by reason of its accessibility its 
commandmg position, its great vertical height and the unspeak- 
able sublimity of the view from its projecting rocks. There is 
a comfortable hotel on the summit, and the stage will here meet 
parties which desire to go out of the valley by this route The 
projecting rocks which mark the Point are but a few yards from 
the hotel. It is exactly 3234 feet from the top of the jutting 
and insecure-looking rock upon which "nervy" people stand to 
be photographed, down to the floor of the valley, and a pebble 
dropped from this point will touch nothing until it strikes the 
talus, 3000 feet straight down. Most of us who know what it 
IS to look over into that gulf are inclined to let somebody else 
drop the pebble. The hotel looks but a hut, stately trees are mere 
shrubs, and men are but dots on the valley floor. 

Much of the northern rim of the valley lies before you on the 
same level upon which you stand, with a background of higher 
mountains. Tliere is Eagle Rock; here Yosemite Falls, shining 
in full light; opposite are the Royal Arches, the North Dome 
and beyond, the Basket Dome; Mirror Lake is but a splash of 
light in the canyon ; the great fractured face of the South Dome 
with the outlme of its splendid helmet unmarred, is above you,' 
and beyond is the naked wind-swept granite of Clouds' Rest 
between you and the sky; far to the right is seen the majestic 
Cap of Liberty, with Mount Lyell, Mount Starr King, Mount 
Clark and the Obelisk, while, shifting your position but a little, 
Vernal and Nevada Falls are seen shining in the dark canyon! 
No wonder a veteran geologist called the view from the point 
"the grandest sight on earth." It is a picture which the poorest 
may enjoy and the richest cannot buy. 

At the extreme projection of the shoulder we are on, is a 
spot from which the five great waterfalls of Yosemite can be 
seen, namely. Upper and Lower Yosemite, Vernal, Nevada and 
Ilhllouette. The spot is called Sierra Point. The few who have 
sought It out speak of it as the one point of supreme beauty in 
this region of glorious views. 

There is pleasure in the sunset and the sunrise from this 
point, and it is worth tarrying for, to see the last rays light up 
Vernal and Nevada Falls when their setting is already of the 



25 



night and darkness ; or in a walk in the early morning to the 
top of Sentinel Dome, or down the fine trail to Illillouette Creek 
and its 500-foot plunge ; or a horseback ride along the rim of the 
south wall via Pohono trail, stopping at the "Fissures," those 
curious crevices in the rocks, one four feet across and several 
hundred feet deep. You will do well to lie down on your 
stomach, crawl to the edge and look over into the abyss. You 
will never forget it. 

At Glacier Point, if you wish, the stage will take you up on 
the return trip, going out past Ostrander Rocks, Mono and Para- 
gon Meadows, and intersecting the other road where it crosses 
Indian Creek under the shadows of Chinquapin. 

THE BIG TREES Returning to Wawona we stop to look, to 
wonder at and admire the most gigantic and 
beautiful trees in the world, for with the sequoia greatness and 
grace, size and symmetry go together. It is alone among the 
trees of the world. If its wood was as hard and serviceable as 
that of its cousin, the S. Sempervirens, the S. Gigantea would 
be an ideal tree in fact as it is in form. 

The Indian name for these trees is "Wawona." The 
standing tree called Wawona is tunnelled, a driveway 
being cut through it ten feet high and six to ten feet 
wide. Through this arch the loaded stage coach drives. 
The tree is 27 feet in diameter and about 200 feet high. 
The Grizzly Giant is 93 feet 7 inches in circumference and it is 
believed by John Muir to have reached maturity, even old age. 
Mr. Muir well calls this tree the king of all the conifers of the 
world and thinks that these giants probably live five thousand 
years or more. The great trees were named in honor of 
Sequoyah, a Cherokee Indian, born about 1770 in Alabama. He 
invented an alphabet and a written language for his tribe, and 
slipped into immortality when Endlicher, a distinguished botanist, 
gave his name to the Big Trees. Sequoyah's English name was 
George Guess. 

It is impossible to see these great trees without emotion. The 
eye at first does not adjust itself to their vast proportions. But 
wait a little. Lie down among them ; study the great fluted col- 
umns ; note the size of the limb yonder where the symmetry of the 
trunk is first broken a hundred feet from the ground. That 
limb is six feet in diameter, larger than any tree to be found 
to-day in the Eastern States. Thus the trees will grow upon 
you every hour until you feel like taking off your hat in the 
presence of this unexampled life. 

"The tops of many of them are broken off, showing that 
decay has already begun" — so one of the books says of them. 
No, no : broken by storms, or smitten by lightning, but not by 
decay. Fallen, they waste away rather than rot. Trees that were 
thrown down before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock are in 
the Sierras to-day, with clear, bright color, and sound at heart. 

27 



It is not certain but that one or two may have lain for a thousand 
years, and they resound to-day to the stroke of axe or hammer. 
As a species they show no signs of suffering or hint of extinction. 



We have sketched but briefly the scenic wonders of this whole 
region. There is nothing like it in the world : no trees so truly 
ideal in symmetry and yet so immense in girth ; no valley so 
beautiful and yet so awful, where such Titanic forces have 
wrought, yet have left a park-like floor, with a peaceful stream 
flowing through flowery meadows and groves of trees, while 
vertical walls, more than 3000 feet high, fence it in, and streams 
break over them in cataracts, one at least fifteen times the height 
of Niagara, and as majestic in volume as it is matchless in grace. 
It must be seen to be appreciated. 

VALLEY ITINERARIES 

The tours which may be made in the Valley and its immediate 
environment are varied, and the chief aim is to crowd as much 
as possible into a few hours. 

ROUND THE VALLEY Visitors who enter by the Wawona route 
arrive about midday, and, as it is then too 
late to consider any of the trails, the most acceptable way of 
utilizing the time is to take the carriage drive around the Valley 
meadows, a trip of about sixteen miles. 

GLACIER POINT VIA THE FALLS ^^'^ ^rip that yields the most 

m variety and grandeur is that 
to Glacier Point by way of Vernal and Nevada Falls and return 
by the direct trail under the brow of the Sentinel. It presents 
a great number of striking features and reveals the Valley. The 
start is usually about 7 o'clock, in wagons, in time to reach 
JMirror Lake by sunrise. Then return a half mile or so to the 
foot of the Anderson trail, where saddle animals are in waiting 
for the exhilarating climb. The return trail leads down the 
west side of Glacier Point to the Valley floor a mile west of 
Sentinel Hotel. 

A very pleasant arrangement for those who have time is to 
remain over night at the Glacier Point Hotel and take the trail 
to the summit of Sentinel Dome before returning the next day. 
Another good plan is to make all other trips in the Valley first 
and reserve the Glacier Point trip to the last, taking the stage 
from the summit homeward. 

POHONO TRAIL J.^ ^^^^^ p°"1;i ^rr^S' 1?°^"^ "''n ^^'' p^""^!' 
Dome to Profile Cliff, Fissures, Dewey Point, 

Crocker Point, Stanford Point and Old Inspiration Point, skirt- 
ing the south rim of the Valley to Fort Monroe. 
EAGLE PEAK ^^^ ^^'^^ most important trip is the trail to 
Eagle Peak and is about seven and a half miles 
one way. It is a full day's journey. The altitude exceeds that 

29 




Big Tree Wawona, Mariposa Grove. 



of Glacier Point by several hundred feet, but the views are not 
quite so commanding. The falls are in full view from the trail 
only occasionally. 

riOUDS' REST ^^^^^ ^^^P ^° Clouds' Rest, though a hard day's 
work, is popular, and is included in the ma- 
jority of tours when time will permit. It is eleven miles one 
way and includes the Anderson trail to the top of Nevada Falls. 

n-ruco TniiDQ The lighter and easier tours are to Mirror 
OTMtK lUUKS ^^^^^ -^^ppy jgj^^^ Vernal and Nevada Falls, 

or the top of Lower Yosemite. 

WHAT TO CARRY ^^^^^ pounds free baggage allowed on the 
stage. Take for your own comfort few 
extras and let them be for use. Wraps will be necessary and 
ladies will need a light and a heavy suit, as morning and evening 
air is apt to be cool. A duster and a soft hat are convenient for 
staging. A riding-suit for ladies, adapted to the trail, a pair of 
strong walking-shoes and a pair of leggins are desirable. If 
much climbing is to be done, shoes should be hobnailed. A small 
field glass or a pair of opera glasses will occasionally be useful. 
Your own toilet articles reduce to a minimum. Laundry work 
can be done quickly to order while in the Valley. 

HOTELS AND CAMPS ^he accommodations in the Valley are 
ample. Ihe Sentmel Hotel, with its 
main building, annex and cottages, affords excellent entertain- 
ment, ranging from $3 to $4 a day. The camp auxiliary gives 
almost as good accommodations for $2 a day, or $12 a week. 
Camp Curry provides abundant comforts for $2 a day. Camp 
Yosemite is at the foot of Yosemite Falls. Camp Glacier ad- 
joining Glacier Point Hotel. Camp Wawona is at the Hotel 
Wawona. Rates at all camps $2 per day. 

The tents of the camps vary in size to accommodate one or 
more persons and are fitted with carpets, spring and wool mat- 
tresses and plenty of bedding. 

Trained saddle-horses may be hired for from $2.50 to $4, 
according to trip ; guide, $3 a day. These rates are fixed by 
the State and visitors need not fear imposition. 

Via Raymond and Wawona. 

Tuc DccT DniiTc By rail of the Southern Pacific to Ray- 
THE BEST ROUTE ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ Yosemite 

Stage & Turnpike Co., thirty-nine miles to Wawona, thence 
twenty-six miles to the Valley. This is probably the most ex- 
tensive stage system in the West and is celebrated for its superior 
facilities and splendid management. 

Thirty miles of this road have all been oiled, the remainder 
of the distance well sprinkled with water during the dry and 
dusty periods, thus forming the most perfect stage road known. 



Visitors arrive at Raymond in a sleeping-car early in the 
morning and leave about 7 oclock on the stage, taking lunch 
at Ahwahnee, a fine half-way house situated in one of the 
prettiest of mountain meadows. Wawona, one of the largest and 
best known mountain resorts in the West, also under the stage 
company's management, is reached about 6 p. m.^ and a halt is 
called for the night. The journey is continued the following 
morning and Yosemite reached at noon. A special stage leaves 
Raymond at 6 a. m. and arrives at Yosemite at 6 p. m. This is 
for the convenience of those whose time is limited. 

It should be noted that this is the only route which includes 
the Mariposa, the finest grove of Big Trees, and Wawona, by far 
the best hotel in the mountains. The oiled road, the comfort- 
able coaches and the superb scenery make this route the first 
choice. It is, too, the only route which offers a view of the 
Valley from Inspiration and Artist's Points, and which brings 
the visitor out at will via Glacier Point. 

Meals en route cost fifty cents. 

WAWONA HOTEL V ,''\^'^' }^i''^'- were lacking, this mountain 
hotel and Mariposa Grove would make the 
Raymond route preeminent. The location is well-nigh ideal : 
a graceful indentation in the giant hills, with mountain meadow, 
crystal trout stream, several dainty lakes, ice-cold springs, the 
tumbling Chilnualna Falls roaring down 2000 feet with foam and 
spray, the whole framed by lofty peaks and noble forest trees, it 
is "beautiful for situation." Many visitors stop here for days 
and weeks every season, and experienced travelers find no place 
more beautiful, restful and refreshing. It is widely noted as one 
of the most popular mountain resorts in the West. 

Oil the stage route to and from Yosemite visitors can plan to 
stay as long as they wish, and then be taken on their way. The 
elevation is about 4500 feet, and from June to October the air is 
like the rarest Indian summer, while ferns, azaleas, Washington 
and Mariposa lilies, and a whole kingdom of wild flowers diffuse 
aromas and spread opulent colors of many kinds. 

As a point from which to study the Big Trees, or a resting- 
place from which to visit them, this delightful hotel is very 
convenient. By trail the distance is easily covered on foot and a 
quiet day among the great trees is full of enjoyment. 
piiRi irATinN^ I" addition to this descriptive booklet the 

KUBLiUAiiuwa Southern Pacific publishes a beautiful souve- 

nir album of views of the Yosemite, which will be sent upon 
application for ten cents. A folder is also issued, giving the 
round-trip rates from principal points to the Yosemite, including 
five and ten days' accommodations at the camps, and the time 
of trains and stage coaches. As time schedules are always sub- 
ject to change, the latest issue should be consulted before taking 
the trip. 



A. 189. (3-27-05-25 M.) 



SOUTHERN PACIFIC PUBLICATIONS 



The following books, descriptive of the different sections of country named, 
have been prepared with great care from notes and data gathered by local 
agents with a special eye to fulness and accuracy. They are up-to-date hand- 
books, about five by seven inches in size, profusely illustrated from the best 
photographs, and form a series invaluable to the tourist, the settler and the 
investor. They will be sent to any address, postage paid, on receipt of ten 
cents each, twenty-five cents for three, or thirty cents for the four first named 
California books : 
The Sacramento Valley of California, The Coast Country of California, 128 

112 pages. pages. 

The San Joaquin Valley of California, California South of Tehachapi, 104 

112 pages. pages. 

Yosemite Valley Booklet, 32 pages, 



5x7, 5 cents. 



The New Arizona, 48 pages, ixlVz in., 
5 cents. 

The New Nevada, 56 pages, 4x7i^ in., 
5 cents. (New edition in prepara- 
tion.) 

Big Tree Booklet, 20 pages, 7x10 inch, 
10 cents. 



Luther Burbank, by Edward J. Wick- 
son, 48 pages, 7x10 in., 10 cents. 

Yosemite National Park Album, 3G 
pages, 7x51/^, 10 cents. 

Wayside Notes Along the Sunset 
Route, 88 pages, 5x7, 5 cents. 



The following publications, most of which are profusely illustrated, will be 
sent free of charge, but one cent for each in stamps should be enclosed for 
postage : 



Big Tree Folder. 

Big Tree Primer. 

California Climatic Map, folder. 

California in Miniature, folder. 

California's Netherlands. 

Coast Line Resorts, folder. 

Del Monte Folder. 

Del Monte Golf. 

Eat California Fruit. 

Giant Forest Folder. 

Hotels and Resorts, 28 pages. 

Kings River Canyon, folder. 

Lake Tahoe Resort, folder. 

Land of Opportunity, by A. J. Wells. 



New Santa Cruz, folder. 

Orange Primer. 

Oregon Map, folder. 

Oregon, Washington, Idaho. 

Outdoor Life in California. 

Pacific Grove, booklet. 

Plea for the Old California Names. 

Prune Primer. 

Reclamation of Nevada. 

Roads of Paso Robles. 

Settlers' Primer. 

Shasta Resorts, folder. 

Side-Trip Excursions. 

Yosemite Valley, folder. 



Requests should be addressed to ADVERTISING BUREAU, SOUTH- 
ERN PACIFIC, 907 Merchants' Exchange Building, San Francisco, Cal. 



CHAS. S. Fee, 

Passenger Traffic Manager. 



T. 



S. GOODMAN, 

General Passenger Agent. 



SUNSET 



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Thoroughly up to date Ten cents a copy 

For sale by Newsdealers One Dollar a year 

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