Miss Leslie's complete cookery. Directions for cookery, in its various branches

NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES

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DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY,

IN ITS

VARIOUS BRANCHES,

BY MISS LESLIE.

THOROUGHLY REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS.

PHILADELPHIA:
HENRY CAREY BAItlP, .

(SUCCESSOR TO E. L. CARET,)
S. E. CORNER MARKET AND FIFTH STREETS.

1851.

% *M**ew«^Mi

X \

THE HEW YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARY

811000 A

A3TO*, LE*OX AHD

TULDAH FOUNDATIONS

ft 1936 I*

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1837, by
E. L. CARET & A. HART,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the
. Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by
HEXRT CARET BATED,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the
Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

6TEREOTTPED BT L. JOHNSON ATO CO.

PHILADELPHIA.
B~ T K. .AND b.-G- 30LLIXS.

PREFACE.

IN preparing a new and carefully revised edition of this,
my first work on general cookery, I have introduced improve-
ments, corrected errors, and added new receipts, that I trust
will, on trial, be found satisfactory. The success of the book
(proved by its immense and increasing circulation,) affords con-
clusive evidence that it has obtained the approbation of a large
number of my countrywomen ; many of whom have informed
me that it has made practical housewives of young ladies who
have entered into married life with no other acquirements
than a few showy accomplishments. Gentlemen, also, have
told me of great improvements in the family-table, after pre-
senting their wives with this manual of domestic cookery ;
and that, after a morning devoted to the fatigues of business,
they no longer find themselves subjected to the annoyance oi
an ill-dressed dinner.

No man (or woman either) ought to be incapable of dis-
tinguishing bad eatables from good ones. Yet, I have heard
some few ladies boast of that incapacity, as something me-
ritorious, and declare that they considered the quality, the
preparation, and even the taste of food, as things entirely
beneath the attention of a rational being; their own minds
being always occupied with objects of far greater importance.

Let no man marry such a woman. * If indifferent to her
own food, he. will find her still more indifferent to his. A
wife who cares not, or knows not what a table ought to be,
always has bad cooks ; for she cannot distinguish a bad one

* My instructress, the late Mrs. Goodfellow, remarked, in allusion to
the dullness or silliness of some of her pupils, " It requires a head
even to make cakes."

7

PREFACE.

from a good one, dislikes change, and wonders how her hus-
band can attach any importance to so trifling a circumstance
as his dinner. Yet, though, for the sake of "preserving the
peace," he may bring himself to pass over, as " trifling circum-
stances," the defects of his daily repasts, he will find himself
not a little mortified, when, on inviting a friend to dinner, he
finds his table disgraced by washy soup, poultry half raw,
gravy unskimmed, and vegetables undrained ; to say nothing
of sour bread, ponderous puddings, curdled custards tasting
of nothing, and tough pastry.

Let all housekeepers remember that there is no possibility
of producing nice dishes without a liberal allowance of good
ingredients. "Out of nothing, nothing can come," is a
homely proverb, but a true one. And so is the ancient cau-
tion against being "penny-wise and pound-foolish." By ju-
dicious management, and by taking due care that nothing is
wasted or thrown away which might be used to advantage,
one family will live "excellently well," at no greater cost in
the end than another family is expending on a table that
never has a good thing upon it.

A sufficiency of wholesome and well-prepared food is abso
lutely necessary to the preservation of health and strength,
both of body and mind. Ill-fed children rarely grow up with
vigorous constitutions; and dyspepsia, in adults, is as fre-
quently produced by eating food that is unpalatable or dis-
agreeable to their taste, as by indulging too much in things
they peculiarly relish. For those who possess the means of
living well, it is a false (and sometimes fatal) economy to live
badly ; particularly when there is a lavish expenditure in fine
clothes, fine furniture, and other ostentations, only excusable
when not purchased at the expense of health and comfort.

ELIZA LESLIE.

Philadelphia, Jan. 16, 1851.

INTRODUCTORY HINTS.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

WE recommend to all families that they should keep in the
house a pair of scales, (one of the scales deep enough to hold
flour, sugar, &c., conveniently,) and a set of tin measures ;
as accuracy in proportioning the ingredients is indispensable
to success in cookery. It is best to have the scales perma-
nently fixed to a small beam projecting (for instance) from
one of the shelves of the store-room. This will preclude the
frequent inconvenience of their getting twisted, unlinked, and
otherwise out of order; a common consequence of putting
them in and out of their box, and carrying them from place to
place. The weights (of which there should be a set from
two pounds to a quarter of an ounce) ought carefully to be
kept in the box, that none of them may be lost or mislaid.

A set of tin measures (with small spouts or lips) from a
gallon down to half a jill, will be found very convenient in
every kitchen ; though common pitchers, bowls, glasses, &c.
may be substituted. It is also well to have a set of wooden
measures from a bushel to a quarter of a peck.
Let it be remembered, that of liquid measure —

Two jills are half a pint.

Two pints — one quart.

Four quarts — one gallon.

10 INTRODUCTORY HINTS.

Of dry measure —

Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck.
One gallon — half a peck.
Two gallons — one peck.
Four gallons — half a bushel.
Eight gallons — one bushel.

About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a com-
mon sized tea-spoon.

Four table-spoonfuls or half a jill, will fill a common wine
glass.

Four wrine glasses will fill a half-pint or common tumbler,
or a large coffee-cup.

A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half.

Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and

pastry, a quart is generally about equal in quantity to a pound

•

avoirdupois, (sixteen ounces.) Avoirdupois is the weight
designated throughout this book.

Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they are
broken.

A table-spoonful of salt is generally about one ounce.

GENERAL CONTENTS.

Page
Soups ; including those of Fish 13

Fish ; various ways of dressing 42

Shell Fish ; Oysters, Lobsters, Crabs, &c 57

Beef ; including pickling and smoking it 68

Veal 93

Mutton and Lamb 106

Pork ; including Bacon, Sausages, &c 114

Venison ; Hares, Rabbits, &c 133

Poultry and Game 140

Gravy and Sauces 1 62

Store Fish Sauces ; Catchups, &c. ,. 171

Flavoured Vinegars 179

Vegetables; including Indian Corn, Tomalas, Mushrooms, &c. 183

Eggs ; usual ways of dressing, including Omelets 206

Pickling 212

Sweetmeats ; including Preserves and Jellies 230

Pastry and Puddings ; also Pancakes, Dumplings, Custards, &c. 272

Svllabubs ; also Ice Creams and Blancmange £] 8

Cakes; including various sweet Cakes and Gingerbread 334

Warm Cakes for Breakfast and Tea ; also, Bread, Yeast, But-
ter, Cheese, Tea, CofFee, &c..- 367

Domestic Liquors ; including home-made Beer, Wines, Shrub,

Cordials, &c 391

Preparations for the Sick 411

Perfumery 423

Miscellaneous Receipts 431

Additional Receipts 433

Animals used as Butchers' Meat 513

Index . . • 517

11

~

MISS LESLIE'S COOKERY

SOUPS.

GENERAL REMARKS.

ALWAYS use soft water for making soup, and be careful to
proportion the quantity of water to that of the meat. Some-
what less than a quart of water to a pound of meat, is a good
rule for common soups. Rich soups, intended for company,
may have a still smaller allowance of water.

Soup should always be made entirely of fresh meat that
has not been previously cooked. An exception to this rule
may sometimes be made in favour of the remains of a piece
of roast beef that has been very'much under-done in roasting
This may be added to a good piece of raw meat. ' Cold ham,
also, may be occasionally put into white soups.

Soup made of cold meat has always a vapid, disagreeable
taste, very perceptible through all the seasoning, and which
nothing indeed can disguise. Also, it will be of a bad,
dingy colour. The juices of the meat having been exhausted
by the first cooking, the undue proportion of watery liquid
renders it, for soup, indigestible and unwholesome, as well as
unpalatable. As there is little or no nutriment to be derived
from soup made with cold meat, it is better to refrain from
using it for this purpose, and to devote the leavings of the
table to some other object. No person accustomed to really

2 13

14 SOUPS.

good soup, made from fresh meat, can ever be deceived in the
taste, even when flavoured with wine and spices. It is not
true that French cooks have the art of producing excellent soups
from cold scraps. There is much bad soup to be found in
France, at inferior houses ; but good French cooks are not, as
is generally supposed, really in the practice of concocting any
dishes out of the refuse of the table. And we repeat, that cold
meat^ren when perfectly good, and used in a large quantity,
has not sufficient substance to flavour soup, or to render it
wholesome.

Soup, however, that has been originally made of raw meat
entirely, is frequently better the second day than the first;
provided that it is re-boiled only for a very short time, and
that no additional water is added to it.

Unless it has been allowed to boil too hard, so as to exhaust
the water, the soup-pot will not require replenishing. When
it is found absolutely necessary to do so, the additional water
must be boiling hot when poured in ; if lukewarm or cold, it

t

will entirely spoil the soup.

Every particle of fat should be carefully skimmed from the
surface. Greasy soup is disgusting and unwholesome. The
lean of meat is much better for soup than the fat.

Long and slow boiling is necessary to extract the strength
from the meat. If boiled fast over a large fire, the meat
becomes hard and tough, and will not give out its juices.

Potatoes, if boiled in the soup, are thought by some to ren
der it unwholesome, from the opinion that the water in which
potatoes have been cooked is almost a poison. As potatoes
are a part of every dinner, it is very easy to take a few out of
the pot in which they have been boiled by themselves, and to
cut them up and add them to the soup just before it goes to
table. Remove all shreds of meat and bone.

SOUPS. Jf)

The cook should season the soup but very slightly with salt
and pepper. If she puts in too much, it may spoil it for the
taste of most of those that are to eat it; but if too littre, it is
easy to add more to your own plate.

The practice of thickening soup by stirring flour into it is
not a good one, as it spoils both the appearance and the taste.
If made with a sufficient quantity of good fresh meat, and not
too much water, and if boiled long and slowly, it will have
substance enough without flour.

FAMILY SOUP.

TAKE a shin or leg of beef that has been newly killed ; the
fore leg is best, as there is the most meat on it. Have it cut
into three pieces, and wash it well. To each pound allow
somewhat less than a quart of wrater; for instance, to ten
pounds of leg of beef, nine quarts of water is a good propor-
tion,. Put it into a large pot, and add half a table-spoonful of
salt. Hang it over a good fire, as early as six o'clock in the
morning, if you dine at two. When it has come to a hard
boil, and the scum has risen, (which it will do as soon as it
has boiled,) skim it well. Do not remove the lid more fre-
quently than is absolutely necessary, as uncovering the pot
causes the flavour to evaporate. Then set it on hot coals in
the corner, and keep it simmering steadily, adding fresh coals
so as to continue a regular heat.

About nine o'clock, put in four carrots, one parsnip, and a
large onion cut into slices, and four small turnips, and eight
tornatas, also cut up; add a head of celery cut small. Put in
a very small head of cabbage, cut into little pieces. If you
have any objection to cabbage, substitute a larger proportion

16 SOUPS.

of the other vegetables. Put in also a bunch of sweet marjo-
ram, tied up in a thin muslin rag to prevent its floating on
the top.

Let the soup simmer unceasingly till two o'clock, skimming
it well : then take it up, and put it into a tureen. If your
dinner hour is later, you may of course begin the soup later ;
but it will require at least eight hours' cooking; remembering
to put in the vegetables three hours after the meat.

If you wish to send the meat to table, take the best part of
it out of the soup, about two hours before dinner. Have ready
another pot with a dozen tomatas and a few cloves. Moisten
them with a little of the soup, just sufficient to keep them from
burning. When the tomatas have stewed down soft, put the
meat upon them, and let it brown till dinner time over a few
coals, keeping the pot closely covered : then send it to table
on a dish by itself. Let the remainder of the meat be left in
the large pot till you send up the soup, as by that time it will
be boiled to rags and have transferred all its flavour to the
liquid, which should be served up free from shreds.

This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of a few
dozen ochras cut into very thin slices, and put in with the
other vegetables. You may put Lima beans into it, green
peas, or indeed any vegetables you like : or you may thicken
it with ochras and tomatas only.

Next day, take what is left of the soup, put it into a pot,
and simmer it over hot coals for half an hour : a longer time
will weaken the taste. If it has been well made and kept in
a cool place, it will be found better the second day than the
first.

If your family is very small, and the leg of beef large, and
the season winter, it may furnish soup for four successive
days. Cut the beef in half; make soup of the first half, in

SOUPS. 17

the manner above directed, and have the remainder wanned
next day : then on the third day make fresh soup of the second
half.

We have been minute in these directions ; for if strictly fol-
lowed, the soup, though plain, will be found excellent.

If you do not intend to serve up the meat separatel}7", break
to pieces all the bones with a mallet or kitchen cleaver. This,
by causing- them to give out their marrow, &c., will greatly
enrich the liquid. Do this, of course, when you first begin
the soup. It is a slovenly and vulgar practice to send soup
to table with shreds of meat and bits of bone in it.

FINE BEEF SOUP.

BEGIN this soup the day before it is wanted. Take a good
piece of fresh beef that has been newly killed : any substan-
tial part will do that has not too much fat about it: a fork leg
is very good for this purpose. Wash it well. Cut off all the
meat, and break up the bones. Put the meat and the bones
into a large pot, very early in the day, so as to allow eight or
nine hours for its boiling. Proportion the water to the quan-
tity of meat — about a pint and a half to each pound. Sprinkle
the meat with a small quantity of pepper and salt. Pour on
the water, hang it over a moderate fire, and boil it slowly :
carefully skimming off all the fat that rises to the top, and keep-
ing it closely covered, except when you raise the lid to skim
it. Do not, on any account, put in additional water to this
soup while it is boiling ; and take care that the boiling goes
steadily on, as, if it stops, the soup will be much injured.
But if the fire is too great, and the soup boils too fast, the
meat will become hard and tough, and will not give out its
juices.

2*

18 SOUPS.

After the meat is reduced to rags, and the soup sufficiently
boiled, remove the pot from the fire, and let it stand in the
corner for a quarter of an hour to settle. Then take it up,
strain it into a large earthen pan, cover it, and set it away in
a cool dry place till next day. Straining it makes it clear and
bright, and frees it from the shreds of meat and bone. If you
find that it jellies in the pan, (which it will if properly made,)
do not disturb it till you are ready to put it into the pot for
the second boiling, as breaking the jelly may prevent it from
keeping well.

On the following morning, boil separately, carrots, turnips,
onions, celery, and whatever other vegetables you intend to
thicken the soup with. Tomatas will greatly improve it.
Prepare them by taking off. the skin, cutting them into small
pieces, and stewing them in their own juice till they aie
entirely dissolved. Put on the carrots before any of tire other
vegetables, as they require the longest time to boil. Or you
may slice and put into the soap a portion of the vegetables
you are boiling for dinner; but they must be nearly done
before you put them in, as the second boiling of the soup
should not exceed half an hour, or indeed, just sufficient time
to heat it thoroughly.

Scrape off carefully from the cake of jellied soup whatever
fat or sediment may still be remaining on it ; divide the jelly
into pieces, and about half an hour before it is to go to table,
put it into a pot, add the various vegetables, (having first
sliced them,) in sufficient quantities to make the soup very
thick ; hang it over the fire and let it boil slowly, or simmer
steadily till dinner time. Boiling it much on the second day
will destroy the flavour, and render it flat and insipid. For
this reason, in making fine, clear beef soup, the vegetables are
to be cooked separately. They need not be put in the first

SOUPS. 19

day, as the soup is to be strained ; and on the second day, if
put in raw, the length of time required to cook them would
spoil the soup by doing it too much. We repeat, that when
soup has been sufficiently boiled on the first day, and' all the
juices and flavour of the meat thoroughly extracted, half an
hour is the utmost it requires on the second.

Carefully avoid seasoning it too highly. Soup, otherwise
excellent, is frequently spoiled by too much pepper and salt.
These condiments can be added at table, according to the
taste of those that are eating it ; but if too large a proportion
of them is put in by the co'ok, there is then no remedy, and
the soup may by some be found uneatable.

Many persons prefer boiling all the vegetables in the soup
on the first day, thinking that they improve its flavour. This
may be done in common soup that is not to be strained, but is
inadmissible if you wish it to be very bright and clear. Also,
unless you have a garden and a profusion of vegetables of
your own, it is somewhat extravagant, as when strained out
they are of no further use, and are therefore wasted.

MUTTON SOUP.

CUT off the shoulder part of a fore quarter of mutton,
and having cut all the meat from the bone, put it into a
soup pot with two quarts of water. As soon as it boils,
skim it well, and then slacken the fire and simmer the meat
for an hour and a half. Then take the remainder of the
mutton, and put it whole into the soup-pot with sufficient
boiling water to cover it well, and salt it to your taste.
Skim it the moment the fresh piece of meat begins to boil,
and about every quarter of an hour afterwards. It should

20 SOUPS.

boil slowly five hours. Prepare half a dozen turnips, four
carrots,* and three onions, (all cut up, but not small,) and put
them in about an hour and a half before dinner. You may
also put in some small dumplings. Add some chopped
parsley.

Cut the meat off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to
table in the tureen with the soup. The other half of the
mutton should be served on a separate dish, with whole tur-
nips boiled and laid round it. Many persons are fond of
mutton that has been boiled in soup.

You may thicken this soup with rice or barley that has first
been soaked in cold water ; or with green peas ; or with young
corn, cut down from the cob ; or with tomatas scalded, peeled,
and cut into pieces.

Cabbage Soup may be made in the same manner, of neck of
mutton. Omit all the other- vegetables, and put in a large
head of white cabbage, stripped of the outside leaves, and cut
small.

Noodle Soup can be made in this manner also. Noodles are
a mixture of flour and beaten egg, made into a stiff paste,
kneaded, rolled out very thin, and cut into long narrow slips,
not thicker than straws, and then dried three or four hours in
the sun, on tin or pewter plates. They must be put in the
soup shortly before dinner, as, if boiled too long they will go
to pieces.

With the mutton that is taken from the soup you may send
to table some suet dumplings, boiled in another pot, and served
on a separate dish. Make them in the proportion of half a
pound of beef suet to a pound and a quarter of flour. Chop
the suet as fine as possible, rub it into the flour, and mix it

* The carrots should be put in early, as they require a long time to
boil ; if full grown, at least three hours.

SOUPS. 21

into a dough with a little cold water. Roll it out thick, and
cut it into dumplings about as large as the top of a tumbler,
and boil them an hour.

VEAL SOUP.

THE knuckle or leg of veal is the best for soup. Wash it
and break up the bones. Put it into a pot with a pound of
ham or bacon cut into pieces, and water enough to cover
the meat. A -set of calf's feet, cut in half, will greatly
improve it. After it has stewed slowly, till all the meat
drops to pieces, strain it, return it to -the pot, and put in
a head of celery -cut small, three onions, a bunch of sweet
marjoram, a carrot and a turnip cut into pieces, and two dozen
black pepper-corns, but not any salt. Add some small
dumplings made of flour and butter. Simmer it another hour,
or till all the vegetables are sufficiently done, and thus send
it to table.

You may thicken it with noodles, that is paste made of
flour and beaten egg, and cut into long thin slips. Or with
vermicelli, rice, or barley ; or with green peas, or asparagus
tops.

RICH VEAL SOUP.

TAKE three pounds of the scrag of a neck of veal, cut it into
pieces, and put it with the bone's (which must be broken up)
into a pot with two quarts of water. Stew it till the meat is
done to rags, and skim it well. Then strain it and return it
to the pot. ,

Blanch and pound in a mortar to a smooth paste, a quarter

22 so TIPS.

of a pound of sweet almonds, and mix them with the yolks
of six hard boiled eggs grated, and a pint of cream, which
must first have been boiled or it will curdle in the soup.
Season it with nutmeg and mace. Stir the mixture into the
soup, and let it boil afterward about three minutes, stirring all
the time. Lay in the bottom of the tureen some slices of
bread without the crust. Pour the soup upon it, and send it
to table.

CLEAR GRAVY SOUP. •

•

HAVING well buttered the inside of a nicely tinned stew-pot,
cut half a pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the bot-
tom, with three pounds of the lean of fresh beef, and as much
veal, cut from the bones, which you must afterward break to
pieces, and lay on the meat. Cover the pan closely, and set
it over a quick fire. When the meat begins to stick to the

•

pan, turn it; and when there is a nice brown glaze at the
bottom, cover the meat with cold water. Watch it well, and
when it is just coming to a boil, put in a pint of water.
This will cause the scum to rise. Skim it well, and then pour
in another pint of water; skim it again; pour in water as
before, a pint at a time, and repeat this till no mere scum
rises. In skimming, carefully avoid stirring the soup, as that
will injure its clearness.

In the mean time prepare your vegetables. Peel off the
outer skin of three large white onions and slice them. Pare
three large turnips, and slice them also. Wash clean and cut
into small pieces three carrots, and three large heads of celery.
If you cannot obtain fresh celer)r, substitute a large table-
spoonful of celery seed, tied up in a bit of clear muslin. Put

SOUPS. 23

the vegetables into the soup, and then place the pot on one
side of the fire, where the heat is not so great as in the middle.
Let it boil gently for four hours. Then strain the soup through
a fine towel or linen bag into a large stone pan, but do not
squeeze the bag, or the soap will be cloudy, and look dull
instead of clear. In pouring it into the straining cloth, be
careful not to disturb the ingredients at the bottom of the
soup-pot.

This soup should be of a fine clear amber colour. If not
perfectly bright after straining, you may clarify it in this
manner. Put it into the stew-pan. Break the whites of two
eggs into a basin, carefully avoiding the smallest particle of
the yolk. Beat the white of egg to a stiff froth, and then mix
it gradually with the soup. Set it over the fire, and stir it till
it boils briskly. Then take it off, and set it beside the fire to
settle for ten minutes. Strain it then through a clean napkin,
and it will be fit for use. But it is better to have the soup
clear by making it carefully, than to depend on clarifying it
afterward, as the white of egg weakens the taste.

In making this (which is quite a show-soup) it is cus-
tomary to reverse the general rule, and pour in cold water.

SOUPE A LA JULIENNE.

^

MAKE a gravy soup as in the preceding receipt, and strain
it before you put in the vegetables. Cut some turnips and
carrots into ribands, and some onions and celery into lozenges
or long diamond-shaped pieces. Boil them separately. When
the vegetables are thoroughly boiled, put them with the fioup
into the tureen, and then lay gently on the top some small

24 SOUPS.

squares of toasted bread without crust ; taking care that they
do not crumble down and disturb the brightness of the soup,
which should be of a clear amber colour.

MACCARONI SOUP.

THIS also is made of clear gravy soup. Cut up and boil
the maccaroni by itself in a very little water, allowing a
quarter of a pound to a quart of soup. The pieces should be
about an inch long. Put a small piece of butter with it. It
must boil till tender, but not till it breaks. Throw it into the
soup shortly before it goes to table, and give it one boil up.
Send to table with it a plate or glass of rasped Parmesan' or
other rich cheese, with a dessert spoon in it, that those who
like it may put it into their soup on the plate.

While the maccaroni is boiling, take care that it does not
get into lumps.

RICH MACCARONI SOUP.

TAKE a quart of clear gravy soup, and boil in it a pound of
the best maccaroni cut into pieces. When it is tender, take
out half of the maccaroni, and add to the remainder two
quarts more of the soup. Boil it till the maccaroni is entirely
dissolved and incorporated with the liquid. Strain it : then
return it to the soap-pan, and add to it the remainder of the
maccaroni, (that was taken out before the pieces broke,) and
put in a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Let
it simmer awhile, but take it up before it comes to a boil.

It may be made with milk instead of gravy soup.

SOUPS. 25

VERMICELLI SOUP.

CUT a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton into small
pieces, and put them, with the bones broken up, into a large
stew-pan. Add the meat sliced from a hock or shank of
ham, a quarter of a pound of butter, two large onions sliced,
a bunch of sweet herbs, and a head of celery cut small.
Cover the pan closely, and set it without any water over a
slow fire for an hour or more, to extract the essence from
the meat. Then skim it well, and pour in four quarts of
boiling water, and let it boil gently till all the meat is reduced
to rags. Strain it, set it again on the fire, and add a quarter
of a pound of vermicelli, which has first been scalded in
boiling water. Season it to your taste with a little cayenne
pepper, and let it boil five minutes. Lay a large slice of
bread in the bottom of your tureen, and pour the soup upon it.

For the veal or mutton you may substitute a pair of large
fowls cut into pieces ; always adding the ham or a few slices
of bacon, without wThich it will be insipid. Old fowls that
are fit for no other purpose will do very wrell for soup.

MILK SOUP.

BOIL two quarts of milk with a quarter of a pound of sweet
almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones, blanched and broken
to pieces, and a large stick of cinnamon broken up. Stir in
sugar enough to make it very sweet. When it has boiled,
strain it. Cut some thin slices of bread, and (having pared
off the crust) toast them. Lay them in the bottom of a tureen,
pour a little of the hot milk over them, and cover them close,
that they may soak. Beat the yolks of five eggs very light,

26 SOUPS.

Set the milk on hot coals, and add the eggs to it by degrees ;
stirrino- it all the time till it thickens. Then take it off

o

instantly, lest it curdle, and pour it into the tureen, boiling
not, over the bread.

This will be still better if you cover the bottom with slices
of baked apple.

RICH BROWN SOUP.

TAKE six pounds of the lean of fresh beef, cut from the
bone. Stick it over with four dozen cloves. Season it
with a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-
spoonful of mace, and a beaten nutmeg. Slice half a dozen
onions ; fry them in butter ; chop them, and spread them over
the meat after you have put it into the soup-pot. Pour in five
quarts of water, and stew it slowly for five or six hours ;
skimming it well. When the meat has dissolved into shreds,
strain it, and return the liquid to the pot. Then add a tum-
bler and a half, or six wine glasses of claret or port wine.
Simmer it again slowly till dinner time. When the soup is
reduced to three quarts, it is done enough. Put it into a
tureen, and send it to table.

RICH WHITE SOUP.

TAKE a pair of large fat fowls. Cut them up. Butter the
inside of the soup-pot, and put in the pieces of fowl with two
pounds of the lean of veal, cut into pieces, or with four calf's
feet cut in half. Season them with a tea-spoonful of salt, a
half tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a dozen blades of

SOUPS. 27

mace. Cover them with water, and stew it slowly for an
hour, skimming it well. Then take out the breasts and wings
of the fowls, and having cut off the flesh, chop it fine. Keep
the pot covered, and the veal and the remainder of the fowls
still stewing.

Mix the chopped chicken with the grated crumb of about
one quarter of*"a loaf of stale bread, (a six cent loaf,) having
soaked the crumbs in a little warm milk. Have ready the
yelks of four hard boiled eggs, a dozen sweet almonds, and
half a dozen bitter ones blanched and broken small. Mix the
egg and almonds with the chopped chicken and grated bread,
and pound all in a mortar till it is well incorporated. Strain
the soup from the meat and fowl, and stir this mixture into
the liquid, after it has stewed till reduced to two quarts.
Having boiled separately a quart of cream or rich milk, add it
hot to- the soup, a little at a time. Cover it, and let it simmer
a few minutes longer. Then send it to table.

These two soups (the brown and the white) are suited to
dinner parties.

MEG MERRILIES' SOUP.

TAKE four pounds of venison, or if you cannot procure
venison you may substitute the lean of fresh. beef or mutton.
Season it with pepper and salt, put it into a large pot, (break

/

the bones and lay them on the meat,) pour in four quarts- of
water, and boil it three hours, skimming it well. Then strain
it, and put it into another pot.

Cut up a hare or a rabbit, a pair of partridges, and a pair of
grouse ; or one of each, with a pheasant, a woodcock, or any
ether game that you can most easily obtain. Season them

28 SOUPS.

and put them into the soup. Add a .dozen small onions, a
couple of heads of celery cut small, and half a dozen sliced
potatoes. Let the soup simmer till the game is sufficiently
done, and all the vegetables tender.

This is the soup with which the gipsy, Meg Merrilies,
regaled Dominie Sampson.

When game" is used for soup, it must be newly killed, and
quite fresh.

VENISON SOUP.

TAKE four pounds of freshly killed venison cut off from the
bones, and one pound of ham in small slices. Add an onion
minced, and black pepper to your taste. Pat only as much
water as will cover it, and stew it gently for an hour, keeping
the pot closely covered. Then skim it well, and pour in a
quart of boiling water. Add a head of celery cut into small
pieces, and half a dozen blades of mace. Boil it gently two
hours and a half. Then put in a quarter of a pound cf butter,
divided into small pieces and rolled in flour, and half a pint
of port or Madeira wine. Let it boil a quarter of an hour
lono-er, and then send it to table with the meat in it.

o *

HARE OR RABBIT SOUP.

TAKE a large newly killed hare, or two rabbits ; cut them
up and wash the pieces. Save all the blood, (which adds
much to the flavour of the hare,) and strain it through a sieve.
Put the pieces into a soup-pot with four whole onions stuck
with a few cloves, four or five blades of mace, a head of
celery cut small, and a bunch of parsley with a large bunch of

SOUPS. 29

sweet marjoram and one of sweet basil, all tied together.
Salt and cayenne to your taste. Pour in three quarts of
water, and stew it gently an hour and a half. Then put in
the strained blood and simmer it for another hour, at least.
Do not let it actually boil, as that will cause the blood to
curdle. Then strain it, and pound half the meat in a mortar, and
stir it into the soup to thicken it, and cut the remainder of the
meat into small mouthfuls. Stir in, at the last, a jill or two
glasses of red wine, and a large table-spoonful of currant jelly.
Boil it slowly a few minutes longer, and then put it into your
tureen. It will be much improved by the addition of two
or three dozen small force-meat balls, about the size of a
nutmeg. This soup will require cooking at least four hours.

Partridge, pheasant, or grouse soup may be made in a
similar manner.

If you have any clear gravy soup, you may cut up the hare,
season it as above, and put it into a jug or jar well covered
and set in boiling water till the meat is tender. Then put it
into the gravy soup, add the wine, and let it come to a boil.
Send ifeto table with the pieces of the hare in the soup.

When hare soup is made in this last manner, omit using
the blood.

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP,

AS MADE IN INDIA.

TAKE a quarter of an ounce of China turmeric, the third of
an ounce of cassia, three drachms of black pepper, two
drachms of cayenne pepper, and an ounce of coriander seeds.
These must all be pounded fine in a mortar, and well mixed
and sifted. They will make sufficient curry powder for the

following quantity of soup :

3*

30 SOUPS.

Take two large fowls, or three pounds of the lean of veal.
Cut the flesh entirely from the bones in small pieces, and put
it into a stew-pan with two quarts of water. Let it boil
slowly for half an hour, skimming it well. Prepare four large
onions, minced, and fried in two ounces of butter. Add to
them the curry powder, and moisten the whole with broth
from the stew-pan, mixed with a little rice flour. When
thoroughly mixed, stir the seasoning into the soup, and
simmer it till it is as smooth and thick as cream, and till the
chicken or veal is perfectly tender. Then stir into it the juice
of a lemon ; and five minutes after take up the soup, with the
meat in it, and serve it in the tureen.

Send to table separately, boiled rice on a hot water dish to
keep it warm. The rice is to be put into the plates of soup
by those who eat it.

To boil rice for this soup in the East India fashion : — Pick
and wash half a pound in warm water. Put it into a sauce-
pan. Pour two quarts of boiling water over it, and cover the
pan closely. Set it in a warm place by the fire, to cook gra-
dually in the hot water. In an hour pour oflf all the water,
and setting the pan on hot coals, stir up and toss the rice
with a fork, so as to separate the grains, and to dry without
hardening it. Do not use a spoon, as that will not loosen the
grains sufficiently. You may toss it with two forks.

MOCK TURTLE OR CALFS HEAD SOUP.

THIS soup will require eight hours to prepare. Take a
large calf's head, and having cleaned, washed, and soaked it,
put it into a pot with a knuckle of veal, and the hock of a
ham, or a few slices of bacon; but previously cut off and
reserve enough of the veal to make two dozen small force-

SOUPS. 31

meat balls. Put the head and the other meat into as much
water as will cover it very well, so that it may not be neces-
sary to replenish it : this soup being always made very rich.
Let it boil slowly four hours, skimming it carefully. As soon
as no more scum rises, put in six potatoes, and three turnips,
all sliced thin; with equal proportions of parsley, sweet
marjoram, and sweet basil, chopped fine ; and cayenne pepper
to your taste. The ham will salt it sufficiently.

An hour before you send the meat to table, make about two
dozen small force-meat balls of minced veal and beef-suet in
equal quantities, seasoned with pepper and salt ; sweet herbs,
grated lemon-peel, and powdered nutmeg and mace. Add
some beaten yolk of egg to make all these ingredients stick
together. Flour the balls very well, and fry them in butter.
Before you put them into the soup, take out the head, and the
other meat. Cut the meat from the head in small pieces, and
return it to the soup. When the soup is nearly done, stir in
half a pint of Madeira. Have ready at least a dozen egg-
balls made of the yolks of hard boiled eggs, grated or pounded
in a mortar, and mixed with a little flour and sufficient raw
yolk of egg to bind them. Make them up into the form and
size of boy's marbles. Throw them into the soup at the last,
and also squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Let it get another
slow boil, and then put it into the tureen.

WE omit a receipt for real turtle soup, as when that very
expensive, complicated, and difficult dish is prepared in a
private family, it is advisable to hire a first-rate cook foi the
express purpose.

An easy way is to get it ready made, in any quantity you
please, from a turtle-soup house.

32 SOUPS.

OX TAIL SOUP.

THREE ox tails will make a large tureen full of soup. Desire
the butcher to divide them at the joints. Rub them with salt,
and put them to soak in warm water, while you prepare the
vegetables. Put into a large pot or stew-pan four onions
peeled and quartered, a bunch of parsley, two sliced carrots,
two sliced turnips, and t\vo dozen pepper corns. Then put in
the tails, and pour on three quarts of water.

Cover the pot, and set it on hot coals by the side of the
fire. Keep it gently simmering for about three hours, sup-
plying it well with fresh hot coals. Skim it carefully.
When the meat is quite tender, and falls from the bones,
strain the soup into another pot, and add to it a spoonful of
mushroom catchup, and two spoonfuls of butter rubbed in
flour.

You may thicken it also with the pulp of a dozen onions

»

first fried soft, and then rubbed through a cullender. After it
is thickened, let it just boil up, and then send it to table, with
small squares of toasted bread in the tureen.

OCHRA SOUP.

TAKE a large slice of ham (cold boiled ham is best) and
two pounds of the lean of fresh beef; cut all the meat into
small pieces. Add a quarter of a pound of butter slightly
melted ; twelve large tomatas pared and cut small ; rive
dozen ochras cut into slices not thicker than a cent ; and
a little cayenne pepper to your taste. Put- all these ingre-
dients into a pot; cover them with boiling water, and let
them stew slowly for an hour. Then add three quarts of hot

SOUPS. 33

xvater, and increase the heat so as to make the soup boi).
Skim it well, and stir it frequently with a wooden or silver
spoon.

Boil it till the tomatas are all to pieces, and the ochras
entirely dissolved. Strain it, and then serve it up with
toasted bread cut into dice, put in after it comes out of
the pot.

This soup will be improved by a pint of shelled Lima
beans, boiled by themselves, and put into the tureen just
before you send it to table.

BEAN SOUP.

PUT two quarts of dried white Deans into soak the night
before you make the soup, which should be put on as early
in the day as possible.

Take five pounds of the lean of fresh beef — the coarse
pieces will do. Cut them up, and put them into your soup-
pot with the bones belonging to them, (which should be
broken to pieces,) and a pound of bacon cut very small. If
you have the remains of a piece of beef that has been roasted
the day before, and so much under-done that the juices remain
in it, you may put it into the pot, and its bones along1 with
it. Season the meat with pepper only, and pour on it six
quarts of water. As soon as it boils take off the scum, and
put in the beans (having first drained them) and a head of
celery cut small, or a table-spoonful of pounded celery-sefid.
Boil it slowly till the meat is done to shreds, and the beans
all dissolved. Then strain it through a cullender into the
tureen, and put into it small squares of toasted bread with the
crust cut off.

34 SOUPS.

Some prefer it with the beans boiled soft, but not quite
dissolved. In this case, do not strain it; but take out the
meat and bones with a fork before you send it to table.

PEAS SOUP.

SOAK two quarts of dried or split peas over-night. In the
morning take three pounds of the lean of fresh beef, and a
pound of bacon or pickled pork. Cut them into pieces, and
put them into a large soup-pot with the peas, (which must
first be well drained,) and a table-spoonful of dried mint
rubbed to powder. Add five quarts of water, and boil the
soup gently for three hours, skimming it well, and then put
in four heads of celery cut small, or two table-spoonfuls of
pounded celery seed.

It must be boiled till the peas are entirely dissolved, so as
to be no longer distinguishable, and the celery quite soft.
Then strain it into a tureen, and serve it up with toasted
bread cut in dice. Omit the crust of the bread.

Stir it up immediately before it goes to table, as it is apt to
Kettle, and be thick at the bottom and thin at the top.

GREEN PEAS SOUP.

TAKE four pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound of bacon.
Cut them to pieces, and put them into a soup kettle with a
sprig of mint and five quarts of water. Boil it moderately
fast, and skim it well. When the meat is boiled to rags,
strain it out, and put to the liquor a quart of young green

SOUPS. 35

peas. Boil them till they are entirely dissolved, and till they
have thickened the soup, and given it a green colour.*

Have ready two quarts of green peas that have been boiled
in another pot with a sprig of mint, and two or three lumps
of loaf sugar, (which will greatly improve the taste.) After
they have boiled in this pot twenty minutes, take out the
mint, put the whole peas into the pot of soup, and boil all
together about ten minutes. Then put it into a tureen, and
send it to table.

Never use hard old green peas for this soup, or for any
other purpose. When they begin to turn yellow, it is time to
leave them off for the season.

Lima bean soup may he made in the same manner.

ASPARAGUS SOUP.

ASPARAGUS soup may he made in a similar manner to that
of green peas. You must have four or five bunches of aspa-
ragus. Cut off the green tops, and put half of them into the
soup, after the meat has been boiled to pieces and strained
out. The asparagus must be boiled till quite dissolved, and
till it has given a green colour to the soup. Then take the
remainder of the asparagus tops (which must all this time
have been lying in eold water) and put them into the soup,
and let them boil about twenty minutes. Serve it up with
small squares of toast in the tureen.

You may heighten the green of this soup by adding the

•

juice of a handful of spinach, pounded in a mortar and

* You may greatly improve the colour by pounding a handful of
spinach in a mortar, straining the juice, and adding it to the soup
about a quarter of an hour before it has done boiling.

30 FISH SOUPS.

strained. Or you may colour it with the juice of boiled
spinach squeezed through a cloth. The spinach juice should
be put in fifteen or ten minutes before you take up the soup,
as a short boiling in it will take off the peculiar taste.

FRIAR'S CHICKEN.

CUT up four pounds of knuckle of veal ; season it with
white pepper and salt: put it into a soup-pan and let it boil
slowly till the meat drops from the bone. Then strain it off.
Have ready a pair of young fowls skinned, and cut up as you
carve them at table. Season them with white pepper, salt,
and mace. Put them into the soup, add a handful of chopped
parsley, and let them boil. When the pieces of chicken are
all quite tender, have ready four or five eggs well beaten.
Stir the egg into the soup, and take it immediately off the
fire lest it curdle. Serve up the chicken in the soup.

Rabbits may be substituted for fowls.

CAT-FISH SOUP.

CAT-FISH that have been caught near the middle of the
river are much nicer than those that are taken near the shore
where they have access to impure food. The small white
ones are the best. Having cut off their heads, skin the fish,
and clean them, and cut them in three. To twelve small cat-
fish allow a pound and a half *of ham. Cut the ham into
small pieces, or mouthfuls, and scald it two or three
times in boiling water, lest it be too salt. Chop together a
bunch of parsley and some sweet marjoram stripped from the

FISH SOUPS. 37

stalks. Put these ingredients into a soup kettle and season
them with pepper : the ham will make it salt enough. Add
a head of celery cut small, or a large table-spoonful of celery
seed tied up in a bit of clear muslin to prevent its dispersing.
Put in two quarts of water, cover the kettle, and let it boil
slowly till every thing is sufficiently done, and the fish and
ham quite tender. Skim it frequently. Boil in another ves-
sel a quart of rich milk, in which you have melted a quarter of
a pound of butter divided into small bits and rolled in flour.
Pour it hot to the soup, and stir in at the last the beaten yolks
of four eggs. Give it another boil, just to take off the raw-
ness of the eggs, and then put it into a tureen, taking out the
bag of celery seed before you send the soup to table, and
adding some toasted bread cut into small squares. In making
toast for soup, cut the bread thick, and pare off all the srust.

Before you send it to table, remove the back-bones of the-
cat-fish.

Eel soup may be made in the same manner : chicken soup also.

LOBSTER SOUP.

HAVE ready a good broth made of a knuckle of veal boiled
slowly in as. much water as will cover it, till the meat is re-
duced to rags. It must then be well strained.

Havino- boiled three fine middle-sized lobsters, extract all the
meat from the body and claws. Bruise part of the coral in a
mortar, and also an equal quantity of the meat. Mix them
well together. Add mace, nutmeg, cayenne, and a little
grated lemon-peel ; and make them up into force-meat balls,
binding the mixture with the yelk of an egg slightly beaten.

Take three quarts of the veal broth, and put into it the
meat of the lobsters cut into mouthfuls. Boil it together

38 FISH SOUPS.

about twenty minutes. Then thicken it with the remaining
coral, (which you must first rub through a sieve,) and add
the force-meat balls, and a little butter rolled in flour. Sim-
mer it gently for ten minutes, but do not let it come to a boil,
as that will injure the colour. Pour it into a tureen, and send
it to table immediately.

OYSTER SOUP.

Season two quarts of oysters with a little cayenne. Then
take them out of the liquor. Grate and roll fine a dozen
crackers. Put them into the liquor with a large lump of
fresh butter. When the grated biscuit has quite dissolved,
add a quart of milk with a grated nutmeg, and a dozen
blades of mace; and, if in season, a head of celery split
fine and cut into small pieces. Season it to your taste with
pepper.

Mix the whole together, and set it in a closely covered
vessel over a slow fire. When it comes to a boil, put in the
oysters ; and when it comes to a boil again, they will be suf-
ciently done.

Before you send it to table put into the tureen some toasted
bread cut into small squares, omitting the crust.»

ANOTHER OYSTER SOUP.

TAKE two quarts of large oysters. Strain their liquor into
a soup pan ; season it with a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a tea-
spoonful of grated nutmeg, the same quantity of whole cloves,
and seven or eight blades of mace. If the oysters are fresh,
add a large tea-spoonful of salt ; if they are salt oysters, none

¥1811 SOUPS. 39

is requisite. Set the pan on hot coals, and boil it slowly (skim-
ming it when necessary) till you find that it is sufficiently
flavoured with the taste of the spice. In the mean time
(having cut out the hard part) chop the oysters fine, with some
hard-boiled yolk of egg. Take the liquor from the fire,
and strain out the spice from it. Then return it to the soup pan,
and put the chopped oysters into it, with whatever liquid may
have continued about them. Add a quarter of a pound of butter,
divided- into little bits and rolled in flour. Coyer the pan,
and let it boil hard about five minutes. If oysters are cooked
too much they become tough and tasteless.

CLAM SOUP.

HAVING put your elams into a pot of boiling water to make
them open easily, take them from the shells, carefully saving
the liquor. To the liquor of fifty opened clams, allow
three quarts of water. Mix the water with the liquor of the
clams and put it into a large pot with a knuckle of veal, the
bone of which should be chopped in four places. When it
has simmered slowly three hours, put in a large bunch of
sweet herbs, a beaten nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of mace, and a
table-spoonfu.1 of whole pepper, but no salt, as the salt of the
clam liquor will be sufficient. Stew it slowly an hour longer,
and then strain it. When you have returned the liquor to the
pot, add a quarter of a pound of butter divided into four and
each bit rolled in flour. Then put in the clams, (having cut
them in pieces,) and let it boil fifteen minutes. Send it to
table with toasted bread in it cut into dice.

This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of small
force-meat balls. Make them of cold minced veal or chicken,
mixed with equal quantities of chopped suet and sweet mar-

40 FISHSOUPS.

joram, and a smaller proportion of hard-boiled egg, grated
lernon-peel, and powdered nutmeg. Pound all the ingredients
together in a mortar, adding a little pepper and salt. Break
in a raw egg or two (in proportion to the quantity) to bind the
whole together and prevent it from crumbling to pieces.
When thoroughly mixed, make the force-meat into small balls,
and let them boil ten minutes in the soup, shortly before you
send it to table. If you are obliged to make them of raw veal
or raw chicken they must boil longer.

It will be a great improvement first to pound the clams in
a mortar.

Oyster soup may be made in this manner.

PLAIN CLAM SOUP.

TAKE a hundred clams, well washed, and put them into a
large pot of boiling water. This will cause the shells to open.
As they open take them out, and extract the clams, taking
care to save the liquor. Mix with the liquor a quart of water,
(or \vhat will be much better, a quart of milk,) and thicken
it with butter rolled in flour. Add a small bunch of sweet-
marjoram,' and a large table-spoonful of whole pepper. Put
the liquid into a pot over a moderate fire. Make some little
round dumplings (about the size of a hickory nut) of flour and
butter, and put them into the soup. When it comes to a boil,
put in the clams, and keep them boiling an hour. Take them
out before you send the soup to table.

When the soup is done, take out the sweet marjoram.
Have ready some toasted bread cut into small squares or dice.
Put it into the soup before you send it to table.

You may make oyster soup in a similar manner.

FISH SOUPS. 41

WATER SOUCHY.

CUT up four flounders, or half a dozen perch, two onions,
and a bunch of parsley. Put them into three quarts of water,
and boil them till the fish go entirely to pieces, and dissolve
in the water. Then strain the liquor through a sieve and
put it into a kettle or stew-pan. Have ready a few more fish
with the heads, tails, and fins removed, and the brown skin
tffken off. Cut little notches in them, and lay them for a short
time in very cold water. Then put them into the stew-pan
with the liquor or soup-stock of the first fish. Season with
pepper, salt, and mace, and add half a pint o£ white wine or
two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil it gently for a quarter of
an hour, and skim it well.

Provide some parsley roots, cut into slices and boiled till
very tender ; and also a quantity of parsley leaves boiled nice
and green. After the fish-pan has boiled moderately fifteen
minutes, take it off the fire, and put in the parsley roots ; also
a little mushroom catchup.

Take out the fish and lay them in a broad deep dish, or in
a tureen, and then pour on the soup very gently for fear of
breaking them. Strew the green parsley leaves over the top.
Have ready plates of bread and butter, which it is customary
to eat with water souchy.

You may omit the wine or vinegar, and flavour the soup
just before you take it from the fire with essence of anchovy, or
with any other of the essences and compound fish-sauces that
are in general use.

Water souchy (commonly pronounced sookey) is a Dutch
soup. It may be made of any sort of small fish ; but floun-
ders and perch are generally used for it. It is very good

made of carp.

4*

42
FISH.

REMARKS.

IN choosing fresh fish, select only those that are thick and
firm, with bright scales and stiff fins ; the gills a very lively
red, and the eyes full and prominent. In the summer, as
soon as they are brought home, clean them, and put them in
ice till you are ready to cook them ; and even then do not at-
tempt to keep a fresh fish till next day. Mackerel cannot be
cooked too soon, as they spoil more readily than any other fish.

Oysters in the shell may be kept from a week to a fortnight,
the following process. Cover them with water, and wash
them clean with a birch broom. Then lay them with the deep
or concave part of the shell undermost, and sprinkle each of
them well with salt and Indian meal. Fill up the tub with
cold water. Repeat this every day ; first pouring off the liquid
of the day before.

The tub must stand all the time in a cool cellar, and be covered
well with an old blanket, carpeting, or something of the sort.

If carefully attended to, oysters kept in this manner will not
only live but fatten.

It is customary to eat fish only at the commencement of the
dinner. Fish and soup are generally served up alone, before any
of the other dishes appear, and with no vegetable but potatoes ;
it being considered a solecism in good taste to accompany them
with any of the other productions of the garden except a little
horse-radish, parsley, &c. as garnishing.

In England and at the most fashionable tables in America,
bread only is eaten with fish. To this rule salt cod is an
exception.

FISH. 43

TO BOIL FRESH SALMON.

SCALE and clean the fish, handling it as little as possible,
and cutting- it open no more than is absolutely necesesry.
Place it on the strainer of a large fish-kettle and fill it up with
cold water. Throw in a handful of salt. Let it boil slowly.
The length of time depends on the size and weight of the fish.
You may allow a quarter of an hour to each pound ; but ex-
perience alone can determine the exact time. It must however
be thoroughly done, as nothing is more disgusting than fish
that is under-cooked. You may try it with a fork. Skim it
well or the colour will be bad.

The minute it is completely boiled, lift up the strainer and
rest it across the top of the kettle, that the fish may drain,
and then, if you cannot send it to table immediately, cover it
with a soft napkin or flannel several folds double, to keep it
firm by absorbing the moisture.

Send it to table on a hot dish. Garnish with scraped horse-
radish and curled parsley. Have ready a small tureen of lob-
ster sauce to accompany the salmon.

Take what is left of it after dinner, and put it into a deep
dish with a close cover. Having saved some of the water
in which the fish was boiled, take a quart of it, and season it
with half an ounce of whole pepper, and half an ounce of whole
cloves, half a pint of the best vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of
salt. Boil it ; and when cold, pour it over the fish, and cover it
closely again. In a cold place, and set on ice, it will keep a
day or two, and may be eaten at breakfast or supper.

If much of the salmon has been left, you must proportion a
larger quantity of the pickle.

Boil salmon trout in a similar manner.

44 FISH.

TO BAKE FRESH SALMON WHOLE.

HAVING cleaned a small or moderate sized salmon, season
it with salt, pepper, and powdered mace rubbed on it both
outside and in. Skewer it with the tail turned round and put
to the mouth. Lay it on a stand or trivet in a deep dish or
pan, and stick it over with bits of butter rolled in flour. Put •
it into the oven, and baste it occasionally, while baking, with
its own drippings.

Garnish it with horseradish and sprigs of curled parsley, laid
alternately round the edge of the dish ; and send to table with
it a small tureen of lobster sauce.

Salmon trout may be drest in the same manner.

SALMON BAKED IN SLICES.

TAKE out the bone and cut the flesh into slices. Season them
with cayenne and salt. Melt two ounces of butter that has
been rolled in flour, in a half pint of water, and mix with it
two large glasses of port wine, two table-spoonfuls of catchup,
and two of soy. This allowance is for a small quantity of
salmon. For a large dish you must proportion the ingre-
dients accordingly. You may add the juice of a large lemon.
Mix all well. Then strain it and pour it over the slices
of salmon. Tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish,
and put it into the oven.

You may bake trout or carp in the same manner.

FISH. 45

SALMON STEAKS.

SPLIT the salmon and take out the bone as nicely as possible,
without mangling the flesh. Then cut it into fillets or steaks
about an inch thick. Dry them lightly in a cloth, and dredge
them with flour. Take care not to squeeze or press them.
Have ready some clear bright coals, such as are fit for beef-
steaks. Let the gridiron be clean and bright, and rub the bais
with chalk to prevent the fish from sticking. Broil the slices
thoroughly, turning them with steak tongs. Send them to
table hot, wrapped in the folds of a napkin that has been
heated. Serve up with them anchovy, or prawn, or lobster
sauce.

Many epicures consider this the best way of cooking salmon

Another way, perhaps still nicer, is to take some pieces of
white paper and butter them well. Wrap in each a slice of
salmon, securing the paper around them with a string or pins.
Lay them on a gridiron, and broil them over a clear but mode-
rate fire, till thoroughly done. Take oft" the paper, and
send the cutlets to table hot, garnished with fried parsley.

Serve up with them prawn or lobster sauce in a boat.

PICKLED SALMON.

TAKE a fine fresh salmon, and having cleaned it, cut it into
large pieces, and boil it in salted water as if for eating. Then
drain it, wrap it in a dry cloth, and set it in a cold place till next
day. Then make the pickle, which must be in proportion to the
quantity of fish. To one quart of the water in which the
salmon 'was boiled, allow two quarts of the best vinegar, one
ounce of whole black pepper, one nutmeg grated, and

46 FISH.

a dozen blades of mace. Boil all these together in a kettle
closely covered to prevent the flavour from evaporating-. When
the vinegar thus prepared is quite cold, pour it over the salmon,
and put on the top a table-spoonful of sweet oil, which will
make it keep the longer.

Cover it closely, put it in a dry cool place, and it will be
good for many months.

This is the nicest way of preserving salmon, and is approved
by all who have tried it. Garnish with fennel.

SMOKED SALMON.

CUT the fish up the back ; clean, and scale it, and take out
the roe, but do not wash it. Take the bone neatly out. Rub
it well inside and out with a mixture of salt and fine Havanna
sugar, in equal quantities, and a small portion of saltpetre.
Cover the fish with a board on which weights are placed to
press it down, and let it lie thus for two days and two nights.
Drain it from the salt, wipe it dry, stretch it open, and fasten
it so with pieces of stick. Then hang it up and smoke it over
a wood fire. It will be smoked sufficiently in five or six
days.

When you wish to eat it, cut off slices, soak them awhile
in lukewarm water, and broil them for breakfast.

TO BOIL HALIBUT.

HALIBUT is seldom cooked whole; a piece weighing from
four to six pounds being generally thought sufficient. Score
deeply the skin of the back, and when you put it into the
kettle lay it on the strainer with the back undermost. Cover

FISH. 47

it with cold water, and throw in a handful of salt. Do not
let it come to a boil too fast. Skim it carefully, and when it
has boiled hard a few minutes, hang the kettle higher, or
diminish the fire under it, so as to let it simmer for about
thirty or thirty-five minutes. Then drain it, and send it to
table, garnished with alternate heaps of grated horse-radish
and curled parsley, and accompanied by a boat of egg-sauce.
What is left of the halibut, you may prepare for the supper-
table by mincing it when cold, and seasoning it with a dress-
ing of salt, cayenne, sweet oil, hard-boiled yolk of egg, and a
large proportion of vinegar.

HALIBUT CUTLETS.

CUT your halibut into steaks or cutlets about an inch thick.
Wipe them with a dry cloth, and season them with salt and
cayenne pepper. Have ready a pan of yolk of egg well
beaten, and a large flat dish of grated bread crumbs.

Put some fresh lard or clarified beef dripping into a frying
pan, and hold it over a clear fire till it boils. Dip your cutlets
into the beaten egg, and then into the bread crumbs. Fry
them of a light brown. Serve them up hot, with the gravy in
the bottom of the dish.

Salmon or any large fish may be fried in the same manner.

Halibut cutlets are very fine cut quite thin and fried in the
best sweet oil, omitting the egg and bread crumbs.

TO BROIL MACKEREL.

MACKEREL cannot be eaten in perfection except at the sea-
side, where it can be had immediately out of the water. It

48 FISH.

loses its flavour in a very few hours, and spoils sooner than
any other fish. Broiling is the b5st way of cooking it.

Clean two fine fresh mackerel, and wipe them dry with a
cloth. Split them open and rub them with salt. Spread some
very bright coals on the hearth, and set the gridiron over them
well greased. Lay on the mackerel, and broil them very
nicely, taking care not to let them burn. When one side is
quite done, turn them on the other. Lay them on a hot dish,
and butter and pepper them before they go to table. Garnish
them with lumps or pats of minced parsley mixed with but-
ter, pepper and salt.

BOILED MACKEREL.

CLEAN the mackerel well, and let them lie a short time in
vinegar and water. Then put them into the fish-kettle with
cold water and a handful of salt. Boil them slowly. If
small, they will be sufficiently cooked in twenty minutes.
When the eye starts and the tail splits they are done. Take
them up immediately on finding them boiled enough. If they
stand any time in the water they will break.

Serve them up with parsley sauce, and garnish the dish
with lumps of minced parsley.

They are eaten with mustard.

For boiling, choose those that have soft roes.

Another way is to put them in cold salt and water, and let
them warm gradually for an hour. Then give them one hard
boil, and they will be done.

FISH. 49

TO BOIL SALT CODFISH.

THE day previous to that on which it is to be eaten, take the
fish about four o'clock in the afternoon, and put it into a kettle
of cold water. Then place it within the kitchen fire-place, SG
as to keep it blood-warm. Next morning at ten, take out the
fish, scrub it clean with a hard brush, and put it into a kettle
of fresh cold water, into .which a jill of molasses has been
stirred. The molasses will be found an improvement. Place
•the kettle again near the fire, until about twenty minutes be-
fore dinner. Then hang it over the fire, and boil it hard a
quarter of an hour, or a little more.

When done, drain it, and cut it into large pieces. Wrap
them closely in a fine napkin and send them to table on a
large dish, garnished round the edge with hard-boiled eggs,
either cut in half, or in circular slices, yolks and whites to-
gether. Have ready in a small tureen, egg-sauce made with
drawn butter, thickened with hard-boiled eggs chopped fine.
Place on one side of the fish a dish of mashed potatoes, on the
other a dish of boiled parsnips.

The most usua^ way of preparing salt cod for eating when
it comes to table, is (after picking out all the bones) to mince
it fine on your plate, and mix it with mashed potato, parsnip,
and egg-sauce; seasoning it to your taste with cayenne and
mustard. What is left may be prepared for breakfast next
morning. It should be put into a skillet or spider, which
must 'be well buttered inside, and "set over hot coals to warm
and brown. Or it may be made up into small cakes and fried.

You may add to the mixture onions boiled and chopped.

•

5

50 FISH.

x

TO BOIL FRESH COD.

HAVING washed and cleaned the fish, leave out the roe and
liver ; rub some salt on the inside, and if the weather is very
cold you may keep it till next day. Put sufficient water in
the fish-kettle to cover the fish very well, and add to the water
a large handful of salt. As soon as the salt is entirely melted
put in the fish. A very small cod-fish will be done in about
twenty minutes, (after the water has boiled ;) a large one wilJ
take half an hour, or more. Garnish with the roe and liver
fried, or \vith scraped horseradish. Send it to table with
oyster-sauce in a boat. Or you may make a sauce by fla-
vouring your melted butter with a glass of port wine, and a
table-spoonful or more, of soy.

ANOTHER WAY OF BOILING FRESH COD.

PUT the fish into cold water with a handful of salt, and let
it slowly and gradually warm for three hours if the cod is
large, and two hours ^if it is small. The% increase the fire,
?ind boil it hard for a few minutes only.

BAKED SHAD.

KEEP on the head and fins. Make a force-meat or stuffing
of grated bread crumbs, cold boiled ham or bacon minced fine,
sweet marjoram, red pepper, and a little powdered mace or
cloves. Moisten it with beaten yolk of egg. Stuff the in-
side of the fish with it, reserving a little to rub over the
outside, having first rubbed the fish all over with yolk of egg.

FISH. 51

Lay the fish in a deep pan, putting its tail to its mouth. Pour
into the bottom of the pan a little water, and add a jill of
port wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Bake it well,
and when it is done, send it to table with the gravy poured
round it. Garnish with slices of lemon.

Any fish may be baked in the same manner.

A large fish of ten or twelve pounds weigh** will require
about two hours baking.

TO BROIL A SHAD.

SPLIT and wash the shad, and afterwards dry it in a cloth.
Season it with salt and pepper. Have ready a bed of clear
bright coals. Grease your gridiron well, and as soon as it is
hot lay the shad upon it, and broil it for about a quarter of an
hour or more, according to the thickness. Bulger it well, and
send it to table. You may serve with it melted butter in a
sauce-boat.

Or you may cut.it into three pieces and broil it without
splitting. It will then, of course, require a longer time, If
done in this manner, send it to table with melted butter poured
over it.

•BOILED ROCK-FISH.

HAVING cleaned the rock-fish, put it into a fish-kettle with
water enough to cover it well, having first dissolved a handful
of Bait in the water. Set it over a moderate fire, and do not
let it boil too fast. Skim it well.

When done, drain it, and put it on a large dish. Have
ready a few eggs boiled hard. Cut them in half, and lay

52 FISH.

them closely on the back of the fish in a straight line from
the head to the tail. Send with it in a boat, celery sauce
flavoured with a little cayenne.

SEA BASS OR BLACK FISH.

N,

MAY be boiled and served up in the above manner.

PICKLED ROCK-FISH.

HAVE ready a large rock^fish. Put on your fish-kettle with
a sufficiency of water to cover the fish amply ; spring or pump
water is best. As soon as the water boils, throw in a tea-
cup full of salt, and put in the fish. Boil it gently for about
half an hour, skimming it well. Then take it out, and drain
it, laying it slantingly. Reserve a part of the water in which
the fish has ^>een boiled, and season it to your taste with
whole cloves, pepper, and mace. Boil it up to extract the
strength from the spice, and after it has boiled add to it an
equal quantity of the best vinegar. You must have enough
of this liquid to cover the fish again. When the fish is quite
cold, cut off the head and tail, and cut the body into lar<re
pieces, extracting the back-bone. Put it into a stone jar,
and when the spiced liquor is cold, pour it on the fish,
cover the jar closely, and set it in a cool place. It will be fit
for use in a day or two, and if well secured from the air, .and
but into a cold place will keep a fortnight.

FRIED PERCH,

HAVING cleaned the fish and dried them with a cloth, lay
them, side by side, on a board or large dish ; sprinkle them

FISH, 53

with salt, and dredge them with flour. After a while turn them,
and salt and dredge the other side. Put some lard or fresh
beef-dripping into a frying-pan, and hold it over the fire.
When the lard boils, put in the fish and fry them of a yel-
lowish brown. Send to table with them in a boat, melted
butter flavoured with soy or catchup.

Flounders or other small fish may be fried in the same
manner. Also tutaug or porgies.

You may know when the lard or dripping is hot enough, by
dipping in the tail of one of the fish. If it becomes crisp im-
mediately, the lard is in a proper state for frying. Or you
may try it with a piece of stale bread, which will become brown
directly, if the lard is in order.

There should always be enough of lard to cover the fish
entirely. After they have fried five minutes on one side, turn

•

them and fry them five minutes on the other. Skim the lard
or dripping always before you put in the fish.

TO FRY TROUT.

HAVING cleaned the fish, and cut off the fins, dredge them
with flour. Have ready some ^beaten yolk of egg, and in a
separate dish some grated bread crumbs. Dip each fish into
the egg, and then strew them with bread crumbs. Put some
butter or fresh beef-dripping into a frying-pan, and hold it over
the fire till it is boiling hot ; then, (having skimmed it,) put
in the fish and fry them.

Prepare some melted butter with a spoonful of mushroom-
catchup and a spoonful of lemon-pickle stirred into it. Send
it to table in a sauce-boat to eat with the fish.

You may fry carp and flounders in the same manner,

5*

54 FISH.

TO BOIL TROUT.

PUT a handful of salt into the water. When it boils put in
the trout. Boil them fast about twenty minutes, according to
their size.

For sauce, send with them melted butter, and put some soy
into it ; or flavour it with catchup.

FRIED SEA BASS.

SCORE the fish on the back with a knife, and season them
with salt and cayenne pepper. Cut some small onions JD
round slices, and chop fine a bunch of parsley. Put some
butter into a frying-pan over the fire, and when it is boiling
hot lay in the fish. When they are about half done put the
onions and parsley into the pan. Keep turning the fish that
the onions and parsley may adhere to both sides. When
quite done, put them into the dish in which they are to go to
table, and garnish the edge of the dish with hard boiled eggs
cut in round slices.

Make in the pan in which they have been fried, a gravy, by
adding some butter rolled in flour, and a small quantity of
vinegar. Pour it into the dish with the fish.

STURGEON CUTLETS OR STEAKS.

THIS is the most approved way of dressing sturgeon.
Carefully take off the skin, as its oiliness will give the fish a
strong and disagreeable taste when cooked. Cut from the
tail-piece slices about half an inch thick, rub them with salt,
find broil them over a clear fire of bright coals. Butter them,

FISH. 55

sprinkle them with cayenne pepper, and send them to table
hot, garnished with sliced lemon, as lemon-juice is generally
squeezed over them when eaten.

Another way is to make a seasoning of bread crumbs, sweet
herbs, pepper and salt. First dip the slices of sturgeon in
beaten yolk of -egg, then cover them with seasoning, wrap
them up closely in sheets of white paper well buttered, broil
them over a clear fire, and send them to table either with 01
without the papers,

STEWED CARP.

HAVING cut off the head, tail, and fins, season the carp with
salt, pepper, and powdered mace, both inside and out. Rub
the seasoning on very well, and let them lay in it an hour.
Then put them into a stew-pan.with a little parsley shred fine,
a whole onion, a little sweet marjoram, a tea-cup of thick
cream or very rich milk, and a lump of butter rolled in flour.
Pour in sufficient water to cover the carp, and let it stew half
an hour. Some port wine will improve it.

Perch may be done in the same way.

You may dress a piece of sturgeon in this manner, but you
must first boil it for twenty minutes to extract the oil. Take
off the skin before you proceed to stew the fish.

CHOWDER.

TAKE 'half a pound of salt pork, and having half boiled
it, cut it into slips, and with some of them cover the bottom
of a pot. Then strew on some sliced onion. Have ready a large
fresh cod, or an equal quantity of haddock, tutaug, or any

56 FISH.

other firm fish. Cut the fish into large pieces, and lay part
of it on the pork and onions. Season it with pepper. Then
cover it with a layer of biscuit, or crackers that have been
previously soaked in milk or water. You may add also a
layer of sliced potatoes.

. Next proceed with a second layer of pork, onions, fish, &c.
and continue as before till the pot is nearly full ; finishing
with soaked crackers. Pour in about a pint and a half of cold
water. Cover it close, set it on hot coals, and let it simmer
about an hour. Then skim it, and turn it out into a deep dish.
Leave the gravy in the pot till you have thickened it with a
bit of butter rolled in flour, and some chopped parsley.
Then give it one boil up, and pour it hot into the dish.

Chowder may be made of clams, first cutting off the hard
part.

TO KEEP FRESH SHAD.

HAVING cleaned the fish, split it down the back, and lay it
(with the skin side downward) upon a large dish. Mix to-
gether a large table-spoonful of brown sugar, a small tea-
spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Cover
the shad with this mixture, spread on evenly, and let it rest in
it till next day, (unless you want it the same evening,) keeping
it in a. cold place.

Immediately before cooking, wipe the seasoning entirely off,
and dry the shad in a clean cloth. Then broil it in the usual
manner.

This way of keeping shad a day or two is much better than
to salt or corn it. Prepared as above it will look and taste as
if perfectly fresh. Any other fish may be kept in this manner.

57

SHELL FISH.

PICKLED OYSTERS.

.TAKE a hundred and fifty fine large oysters, and pick off
carefully the bits of shell that may be sticking to them. Lay
the oysters in a deep dish, and then strain the liquor over
them. Put them into an iron skillet that is lined with porce-
lain, and add salt to your taste. Without salt they will not
be firm enough. Set the skillet on hot coals, and allow the

o '

oysters to simmer till they are heated all through, but not till
they boil. Then take out the oysters and put them into a
stone jar, leaving the liquor in the skillet. Add to it a pint
of clear cider vinegar, a large tea-spoonful of blades of mace,
three dozen whole cloves, and three dozen whole pepper
corns. Let it come to a boil, and when the oysters are quite
cold in the jar, pour the liquor on them.

They are fit for use immediately, but are better the next
day. In cold weather they will keep a week.

If you intend sending them a considerable distance you
must allow the oysters to boil, and double the proportions of
the pickle and spice.

FRIED OYSTERS.

GET the largest and finest oysters. After they are taken
from the shell wipe each of them quite dry with a cloth.
Then beat up in a pan yolk of egg and milk, (in the proportion
of two yolks to half a jill or a wine glass of milk,) and have

58 SHELL FISH.

some stale bread grated very fine in a large flat dish. Cut up at
least half a pound of fresh butter in the frying-pan, and hold
it over the fire till it is boiling hot. Dip the oysters all over
lightly in the mixture of egg and milk, and then roll them
up and down in the grated bread, making as many crumbs
stick to them as you can.

Put them into the frying-pan of hot butter, and keep it over
a hot fire. Fry them brown, turning' them that they may be
equally browned on both sides. If properly done they will
be crisp, and not greasy.

Serve them dry in a hot dish, and do not pour over them the
butter that may be left in the pan when they are fried.

Instead of grated bread you may use crackers finely
powdered.

SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.

HAVING grated a sufficiency of stale bread, butter a deep
dish, and line the sides and bottom thickly with bread crumbs.
Then put in a layer of seasoned oysters, with a few very
small bits of butter on them. Cover them thickly with
crumbs, and put in another layer of oysters and butter, till the
dish is filled up, having a thick layer of crumbs on the top.
Put the dish into an oven, and bake them a very short time, or
they will shrivel. Serve them up hot. .

You may bake them in large clam shells, or in the tin
scollop shells made for the purpose. Butter the bottom of
each shell ; sprinkle it with bread crumbs ; lay on the oysters
seasoned with cayenne and nutmeg, and put a morsel of
butter on each. Fill up the shells with a little of the oyster

SHELLFISH. 59

liquor thickened with bread crumbs, and set them on a
gridiron over coals, browning them afterwards with a red-
hot shovel. Oysters are very nice taken whole out of the
shells, and broiled.

STEWED OYSTERS.

PUT the oysters into a sieve, and set it on a pan to drain the
liquor from them. Then cut off the hard part, and put the
oysters into a stew-pan with some whole pepper, a few blades
of mace, and some grated nutmeg. Add a small piece of
butter rolled in flour. Then pour over them about half
of the iiquor}< or a little more. Set the pan on hot coals, and
simmer them gently about, five minutes. Try one, and if it
tastes raw cook them a little longer. Make some thin slices
of toast, having cut off all the crust. Butter the toast and lay

it in the bottom of a deep dish. Put the oysters upon it with

•
the liquor in which they were stewed.

The liquor of oysters should never be thickened by stirring
in flour. It spoils the taste, and gives them a sodden and
disagreeable appearance, and is no longer practised by good
cooks. A little cream is a fine improvement to stewed oysters.

OYSTER FRITTERS.

HAVE ready some of the finest and largest oysters ; drain
them from the liquor and wipe them dry.

Beat six eggs very light, and stir into them gradually six
table-spoonfuls of fine sifted flour. Add by degrees a pint
and a half of rich milk and some grated nutmeg, and beat it
to a smooth batter.

60 SHELLFISH.

Make your frying-pan very hot, and put into it a piece of
butter or lard. When it has melted and begins to froth, put
in a small ladle-full of the batter, drop an oyster in the middle
of it, and fry it of a light brown. Send them to table hot.

If you find your batter too thin, so that it spreads too much
in the frying-pan, add a little more flour beaten well into it.
of it is too thick, thin it with some additional milk.

OYSTER PIE.

MAKE a puff-paste, in the proportion of a pound and. a half

of fresh butter to two pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out

»

rather thick, into two sheets. Butter a deep dish, and line the
bottom and sides of it with paste. Fill it up with crusts of
bread for the purpose of supporting the lid while it is baking,
as the oysters will be too much done if they are cooked in the
pie. Cover it witfi the other sheet of paste, having first
buttered the flat rim of the dish. Notch the edges of the pie
handsomely, or ornament them with leaves of paste which
you may form with tin cutters made for the purpose. Make
a little slit in the middle of the lid, and stick firmly into it a
paste tulip or other flower. Put the dish into a moderate
oven, and while the paste is baking prepare the oysters, which
should be large and fresh. Put them into a stew-pan with
half their liquor thickened with yolk of egg boiled hard
and grated, enriched with pieces of butter rolled in bread
crumbs, and seasoned with mace and nutmeg. Stew the

i

oysters five minutes. When the paste is baked, carefully
take off the lid, remove the pieces of bread, and put in the
oysters and gravy. Replace the lid, and send the pie to table
warm.

SHELL FISH. 01

TO BOIL A LOBSTER.

PUT a handful of salt into a large kettle or pot of boiling
water. "When the water boils very hard put in the lobster,
having first brushed it, and tiecT the claws together with a bit
of twine. Keep it boiling from half an hour to an hour in
proportion to its size. If boiled too long the meat will be hard
and stringy. When it is done, take it out, lay it on its claws
to drain, and then wipe it dry. Send it to table cold, with
the body and tail split open, and the claws taken off.
Lay the large claws next to the body, and the small ones out-
side. Garnish with double parsley.

It is scarcely necessary to mention that the head of a lob-
ster, and what are called the' lady-fingers are not to be eaten.

TO DRESS LOBSTER COLD

PUT a table-spoonful of cold water on a clean plate, and
with the back of a wooden spoon mash into it the coral or
scarlet meat of the lobster, adding a salt-spoonful of salt, and
about the same quantity of cayenne. On another part of the
plate mix well together with the back of the spoon two table-
spoonfuls of sweet oil, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard.
Then mix the whole till they are well incorporated and per-
fectly smooth, adding, at the last, one table-spoonful of
vinegar, and two more of oil.

This quantity of seasoning is for a small lobster. For a
large one, more of course will be required. Many persons add
a tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar, thinking that it gives
a mellowness to the whole.

The meat of the body and claws of the lobster must be

carefully extracted from the shell and minced very small.

6

02 SHELL FISH.

When the dressing is smoothly and thoroughly amalgamated
mix the meat with it, and let it be handed round to the com-
pany.

The vinegar from a jar of Indian pickle is by some preferred
for lobster dressing.

You may dress the lobster immediately before you send it
to table. When the dressing and meat are mixed together,
pile it in a deep dish, and smooth it with, the back of a spoon.
Stick a bunch of the small claws in the top, and garnish with
curled parsley.

Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being coarse
and tough.

STEWED LOBSTER.

HAVING boiled the lobster, extract the meat from the shell,
and cut it into very small pieces. Season it with a powdered
nutmeg, a few blades of mace, and cayenne and salt to your
taste. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter cut
small, and two glasses of white wine or of vinegar. Put it
into a stew-pan, and set it on hot coals. Stew it about twrenty
minutes, keeping the pan closely covered lest the flavour
should evaporate. Serve it up hot.

IPyou choose, you can send it to table in the shell, which
must first be nicely cleaned. Strew the meat over with sifted
bread-crumbs, and brown the top with a salamander, or a red
hot shovel held over it.

fc VW*. -vs. ^

FRICASSEED LOBSTER.

PUT the lobster into boiling salt and water, and let it boil
according to its size from a quarter of an hour to half an hour.

SHELL FISH. 63

The intention is to have it parboiled only, as it is afterwards
to be fricasseed. Extract the meat from the shell, and cut it
into small pieces. Season it with red pepper, salt, and
nutmeg ; and put it into a stew-pan with as much cream as
will cover it. Keep the lid close ; set the pan on hot coals,
and stew it slowly for about as long a time as it was pre-
viously boiled. Just before you take it from the fire, stir in
the beaten yolk of an egg. Send it to table in a small dish
placed on a larger one, and arrange the small claws nicely

•

round it on the large dish.

POTTED LOBSTER.

PARBOIL -the lobster in boiling water well salted. Then
pick out all the meat from the body and claws, and beat it in a
mortar with nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt, to your taste.
Beat the coral separately. Then put the pounded meat into a
large potting can of block tin with a cover. Press it down
hard, having arranged it in alternate layers of white meat and
coral to give it a marbled or variegated appearance. Cover it
with fresh butter, and put it into a slow oven for half an hour.
"When cold, take off the butter and clarify it, by putting
it into a jar, which must be set in a pan of boiling water.
Watch it well, and when it melts, carefully skim off the
buttermilk which will rise to the top. When no more scum
rises, take it off and let it stand for a few minutes to settle,
and then strain it through a sieve.

Put the lobster into small potting-cans, pressing it down
very hard. Pour the clarified butter over it, and secure the
covers tightly.

Potted lobster is used to lay between thin slices of bread .

(34 SHELLFISH.

as sandwiches. The clarified butter that accompanies it is
excellent for fish sauce.

Prawns and crabs may be potted in a similar manner.

LOBSTER PIE.^

* ,

PUT two middle-sized lobsters into boiling salt and water.
When they are half boiled, take the meat from the shell, cut
it into very small pieces, and put it into a pie dish. Break
up the shells, and stew them in a very little water with half
a dozen blades of mace and a grated nutmeg1. Then strain
off the liquid. Beat the coral in a mortar, and thicken the
liquid with it. ' Pour this into the dish of lobster to make the
gravy. Season it with cayenne, salt, and mushroom catchup,
and add bits of butter. Cover it with a lid of paste, made in
the proportion of ten ounces of butter to a pound of flour,

•

notched handsomely, and ornamented with paste leaves. Do
not send it to table till it has cooled.

TO BOIL PRAWNS.

THROW a handful of salt into a pot of boiling water. When
it boils very hard, put in the prawns. Let them boil a quarter
of an hour, and when you take them out lay them on a sieve
to drain, and then wipe them on a dry cloth, and put them
aside till quite cold.

Lay a handful of curled parsley in the middle of a dish. Put
one prawn on the top of it, and lay the others all round, as
close as you can, with the tails outside. Garnish with parsley.

Eat them with salt, cayenne, sweet oil, mustard and vine-
gar, mixed together as for lobsters.

SHELLFISH. 65

CRABS.

CRABS are boiled in the same manner, and in serving1 up
may be arranged like prawns.

HOT CRABS.

HAVING boiled the crabs, extract all the meat from the shell,
cat it fine, and season it to your taste with nutmeg, salt, and
cayenne pepper. Add a bit of butter, some grated bread

crumbs, and sufficient vinegar to moisten it. Fill the back-

»
shells of the crab with the mixture ; set it before the fire, and

brown it by holding a red-hot shovel or a salamander a little
above it.

Cover a large dish with small slices of dry toast with the
crust cut off. Lay on each slice a shell filled with the crab.
The shell of one crab will contain the meat of two.

COLD CRABS.

HAVING taken all the meat out of the shells, make a dress-
ing with sweet oil, salt, cayenne pepper, mustard and vinegar,
as for lobster. You may add to it some hard-boiled yolk
of egg, mashed in the oil. Put the mixture into the back-
shells of the crabs, and serve it up. Garnish with the small
claws laid nicely round.

6*

66 SHELL FISH.

SOFT CRABS.

THESE crabs must be cooked directly, as they will not keep
till next day.

Remove the spongy substance from each side of the crab,
and also -the little sand-bag. Put some lard into a pan, and
when it is boiling hot, fry the crabs in it. After you take
them out, throw in a handful of parsley, and let it crisp ; but
withdraw it before it loses its colour. Strew it over the crabs
when you dish them.

Make the gravy by adding cream or rich milk to the lard,
with some chopped parsley, pepper and salt.. Let them all
boil together for a few minutes, and then serve it up in a
sauce-boat

TERRAPINS.

HAVE ready a pot of boiling water. When it is boiling very
hard put in the terrapins, and let them remain in it till quite
dead. Then take them out, pull off the outer skin and the
toe-nails, wash the terrapins in warm water and boil them
again, allowing a tea-spoonful of salt to two terrapins. When
the flesh becomes quite tender so that you can pinch it off,
take them out off the shell, remove the sand-bag, and the gall,
which you must be careful not to break, as it will make the
terrapin so bitter as to be uneatable. Cut up all the other
parts of the inside with the meat, and season it to your
taste with cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and mace. Put all
into a stew-pan with the juice or liquor that it has given out
in cutting up, but not any water. To every two terrapins
allow a quarter of a pound of butter divided into pieces and

SHELL FISH. 67

rolled in flour, one glass of Madeira, and the yolks of two
eggs. The eggs must be beaten, and not stirred in till a mo-
ment before it goes to table. Keep it closely covered. Stew
it gently till every thing is tender, and serve it up hot in a
deep dish. The entrails are no longer cooked with terrapins.

Terrapins, after being boiled by the cook, may be brought
to table plain, with all the condiments separate, that the com-
pany may dress them according to taste.

For this purpose heaters or chafing-dishes must be provided
for each plate.

PICKLED LOBSTER.

TAKE half a dozen fine lobsters. Put them into boiling salt
and water, and when they are all done, take them out and
extract all the meat from the shells, leaving that of the claws
as whole as possible, and cutting the flesh of the body into
large pieces nearly of the same size. Season a sufficient
quantity of vinegar very highly with whole pepper-corns,
whole cloves, and whole blades of mace. Put the pieces of
lobster into a stew-pan, and pour on just sufficient vinegar to
keep them well covered. Set it over a moderate fire ; and
when it has boiled hard about five minutes, take out the
lobster, and let the pickle boil by itself for a quarter of an
hour. When the pickle and lobster are both cold, put them
together into a broad flat stone jar. Cover it closely, and set
it away in a cool place.

Eat the pickled lobster with oil, mustard, and vinegar, and
have bread and butter with it. *

G8

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

EEF.

GENE'RAL REMARKS.

WHEN beef is good, it will have a fine smooth open grain,
and it will feel tender when squeezed or pinched in your
fingers. The lean should be of a bright carnation red, and
the fat white rather than j^ellow — the suet should be perfectly
white. If the lean looks dark or purplish, and the fat very
yellow, do not buy the meat.

See that the butcher has properly jointed the meat before it
£oes home. For good tables, the pieces generally roasted are
the sirloin and the fore and middle ribs. In genteel houses
other parts are seldom served up as roast-beef. In small fami-
lies the ribs are the most convenient pieces. A whole sirloin
is too large, except for a numerous company, but it is the
piece most esteemed.

The best beef-steaks are those cut from the ribs, or from
the inner part of the sirloin. All other pieces are, for this
purpose, comparatively hard and tough.

The round is generally corned or salted, and boiled. It is
also used for the dish called beef a-la-mode.

The legs make excellent soup ; the head and tail are also
used for that purpose.

The tongue when fresh is never cooked except for mince-
pies. Corned or salted it is seldom liked, as in that state it
has a faint sickly taste that few persons can relish. But

•

BEEF. 69

when pickled and afterwards smoked (the only good way of
preparing a tongue) it is highly and deservedly esteemed.

The other pieces of the animal are generally salted and
boiled. Or when fresh they may be used for soup or stews,
if not too fat.

If the state of the weather will allow you to keep fresh
beef two or three days, rub it with salt, and wrap it in a cloth.

In summer do not attempt to keep it more than twenty-four
hours ; and not then unless you can conveniently lay it in ice,
or in a spring-house.

In winter if the beef is brought from market frozen, do not
cook it that day unless you dine very late, as it will be im-
possible to get it sufficiently done — meat that has been frozen
requiring* double the usual time. To thaw it, lay it in cold
water, which is the only way to extract the frost without
injuring the meat. It should remain in the water three hours,
or more.

TO ROAST BEEF.

THE fire should be prepared at least half an hour before the
beef is put down, and it should be large, steady, clear, and
bright, with plenty of fine hot coals at the bottom.

The best apparatus for the purpose is the wre]l-knf»wn
roaster frequently called a tin-kitchen.

Wash the meat in cold water, and then wipe it dry, and
rub it with salt. Take care not to run the spit through the best
parts of it. It is customary with some cooks to tie blank paper
over the fat, to prevent it from melting and wasting too fast.

Put it evenly into the roaster, and do not set it too near the
fire, lest the outside of the meat should be burned before the
inside is heated.

70 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

Put some nice beef-dripping or some lard into the pan or
bottom of the roaster, and as soon as it melts begin to baste
the beef with it ; taking up the liquid with a long spoon, and
pouring it over the meat so as to let it trickle down again
into the pan. Repeat this frequently while it is roasting ;
after a while you can baste it with its own fat. Turn the
spit often, so that the meat may be equally done on all
sides.

Once or twice draw back the roaster, and improve the fire
by clearing away the ashes, bringing forward the hot coals,
and putting on fresh fuel at the back. Should a coal fall
into the dripping-pan take it out immediately.

An allowance of about half an hour to each pound of
meat is the time commonly given for roasting; but this rule,
like most others, admits of exceptions according to circum-
stances. Also, some persons like their meat very much
done ; others prefer it rare, as it is called. In summer, meat
will roast in .a shorter time than in winter.

When the beef is nearly done, and the steam draws towards
the fire, remove the paper that has covered the fat part, sprinkle
on a little salt, and having basted the meat well with the drip-
ping, pour off nicely (through the spout of the roaster) all the
liquid fat from the top of the gravy.

Dastly, dredge the meat very lightly with a little flour, and
baste it with fresh butter. This will give it a delicate froth.
To the gravy that is now running from the meat add nothing
but a tea-cup of boiling water. Skim it, and send it to table
in a boat. Serve up with the beef in a small deep plate,
scraped horseradish moistened with vinegar.

Fat meat requires mere roasting than lean, and meat that
has been frozen will take nearly Double the usual time.

Basting the meat continually with flour and water is a bad

BEEF. 71

practice, as it gives it a coddled par-boiled appearance, and
diminishes the flavour.

These directions for roasting beef will apply equally to
mutton.

Pickles are generally eaten with roast beef. French mus-
tard is an excellent condiment for it. In carving begin by
cutting a slice from the side.

TO SAVE BEEF-DRIPPING.

UR off through the spout of the roaster or tin-kitchen, all
the fat from the top of the gravy, after you have done basting
the meat with. it. Hold a little sieve under the spout, and
strain the dripping through it into a pan. Set it away in a
cool place;* and next day when it is cold and congealed, turn
the cake of fat, and scrape with a knife the sediment from the
bottom. Put the dripping into a jar ; cover it tightly, and set
it away in the refrigerator, or in the coldest place you have.
It will be found useful for frying, and for many other purposes.
Mutton-dripping cannot be used for any sort of cooking, as
it communicates to every thing the taste of tallow.

BAKED BEEF.

THIS is a plain family dish, and is never provided for com-
pany.

Take a nice but not a fat piece of fresh beef. Wash it, rub
it with salt, and place it on a trivet in a deep block tin or iron
pan. Pour a little water into the bottom, and put under and
round the trivet a sufficiency of pared potatoes, either white
or sweet ones. Put it into a hot oven, and let it bake, till

72 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

thoroughly done, basting it frequently with its own gravy.
Then transfer it to a hot dish, and serve up the potatoes in
another. Skim the gravy, and send it to table in a boat.

Or you may boil the potatoes, mash them with milk, and
put them into the bottom of the pan about half an hour before
the meat is done baking. Press down th4e mashed potatoes
hard with the back of a spoon, score them in cross lines over
the top, 'and let them brown under the meat, serving them up
laid round it.

Instead of potatoes,, you may put in the bottom of the pan
what is called a Yorkshire pudding, to be baked under the
meat.

To make this pudding, — stir gradually four table-spoonfuls
of flour into a pint of milk, adding a saltrspoon of salt. Beat
four eggs very light, and mix them gradually v?']$i the milk
and flour. See that the batter is not lumpy. Do not put the
pudding under the meat at first, as if baked -too long it will
be hard and solid. After the meat has baked till the pan is
quite hot and well greased with the drippings, you may put in
the batter ; ha-vino- continued stirring it till the last moment.

' / O O

If the pudding is so spread over the pan as to be but an inch
thick, it will require about-two hours baking* and need not be
turned. If it is thicker than an inch, you must (after it is
brown on 'the top) loosen it in the pan, by inserting a knife
beneath it, and having cut it across into four pieces, turn them
all nicely that the other side may be equally done.

But this pudding is lighter and better if laid so thin as not
to require turning.

When you serve up the beef lay the pieces of pudding round
it, to be eaten with the meat.

Veal may be baked in this manner with potatoes or a pud-
ding. Also fresh pork.

BEEF. 73

TO BOIL CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.

THE best piece is the round. You may either boil it whole,
or divide it into two, or even three pieces if it is large, taking
care that each piecA shall have a portion of the fat. Wash it
well ; and, if very salt, soak it in two waters. Skewer it up
tightly and in a good compact shape, wrapping the flap piece
firmly round it. Tie it round with broad strong tape, or with
a strip of coarse linen. Put it into a large pot, and cover it
well with water. It will be found a convenience to lay it on
a fish drainer.

Hang it over a moderate fire that it may heat gradually all
through. Carefully take off the scum as it rises, and when
no more appears, keep the pot closely covered, and let it boil
slowly and regularly, with the fire at an equal temperature.
Allow at least four hours to a piece weighing about twelve
pounds, and from that to five or six hours in proportion to the

size. Turn the meat twice in the pot while it is boiling. Put

•
in some carrots and turnips about two hours after the meat.

Many persons boil cabbage in the same pot with the beef, but
it is a much nicer way to do the greens in a separate vessel,
lest they become saturated with the liquid fat. Cauliflower
or brocoli (which are frequent accompaniments to corned beef)
should never be boiled with it.

Wash the cabbage in cold water, removing the outside
leaves, and cutting the stalk close. Examine all the leaves
carefully, lest insects should be lodged among them. If the
cabbage is large, divide it into quarters. Put it into a pot of
boiling water with a handful of salt, and boil it till the stalk
is quite tender. Half 'an hour will generally be sufficient for
a small young cabbage ; an hour for a large full-grown one.

71 DIRECTIONS FOR COOK I N.G M EAT.

Drain it well before you dish it. If boiled separately from
the meat, have ready some melted butter to eat with it.

Should you find the beef under-done, you may reboil it next
day ; putting it into boiling water and letting it simmer for
half an hour or more, according to its size.

Cold corned beef will keep very well foa^ome days wrapped
in several folds of a thick linen cloth, and set away in a cool
dry place.

In carving a round of beef, slice it horizontally and very
thin. Do not help any one to the outside pieces, as they are
generally too hard and salt. French mustard is very nice
with corned beef.*

This- receipt will apply equally to any piece of corned beef,
except that being less solid than the round, they will, in pro-
portion to their weight, require rather less time to boil.

In dishing the meat, remove the wooden skewers and sub-
stitute plated or silver ones.

Many persons think it best (and they are most probably
right) to stew eorned beef rather than to boil it. If you
intend to stew it, put no more water in the pot than will
barely cover the meat, and keep it gently simmering over a
slow fire for four, five, or six hours, according to the size of
the piece.

TO BROIL BEEF-STEAKS.

THE best beef steaks are those cut from the ribs or fron
the inside of tne sirloin. All other parts are for this pur-
pose comparatively hard and tough.

They should be cut about three quarters of an inch* thick,

* French mustard is made of the very best mustard powder, diluted
with tarragon vinegar mixed with an equal portion of sweet oil, add-
ing a few drops of garlic vinegar. Use a wooden spoon.

BEEF. 75

and, unless the beef is remarkably fine and tender, the steaks
will be much improved by beating them on both sides with a
steak mallet, or with a rolling-pin. Do not season them till

you take them from the fire.

Have ready on your hearth a fine bed of clear bright coals,
entirely free from anoke and ashes. Set the gridiron over
the coals in a slanting direction, that the meat may not be
smoked by the fat dropping into the fire directly under it.
When the gridiron is quite hot, rub the bars with suet, sprinkle
a little salt over the coals, and lay on the steaks. Turn them
frequently with a pair of steak-tongs, or with a knife and fork.
A quarter of an hour is generally sufficient time to broil a
beef-steak. For those who like them underdone or rare, ten
or twelve minutes will .be enough.

When the fat blazes and smokes very much as it drips into
the fire, quickly remove the gridiron for a moment, till the
blaze has subsided. After they are browned, cover the
upper side of the steaks with an inverted plate or dish to pre-
vent the flavour from evaporating. Rub a dish with a shalot,
or small onion, and place it near the gridiron and close to the
fire, that it may be well heated. In turning the steak drop
the gravy .that may be standing on it into this dish, to save it
from being lost. When the steaks are done, sprinkle them
with a little salt and pepper, and lay them in a hot dish,
putting on each a piece of fresh butter. Then, if it is liked,
season them with a very little raw shalot, minced as finely
as possible, and moistened with a spoonful of water ; and stir
a tea-spoonful of catchup into the gravy. Send the steaks to
table very hot, in a covered dish. You may serve up with
them onion sauce in a small tureen.

Pickles are frequently eaten with beef-steaks.

Mutton chops may be broiled in the same manner.

76 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

TO FRY BEEF-STEAKS.

BEEF-STEAKS for frying should be cut thinner than for broil-
ing. Take them from the ribs or sirloin, and remove the

•

bone. Beat them to make them tender. Season them with
salt and pepper. qt

Put some fresh butter, or nice beef-dripping into a frying-
pan, and hold it over a clear bright fire till it boils and has
done hissing. Then put in the steaks, and (if you like them)
some sliced onions. Fry them about a quarter of an hour,
turning them frequently. Steaks, when fried, should be
thoroughly done. After they are browned, cover them with
a large plate to keep in the juices.

Have ready a hot dish, and when they are done, take out
the steaks and onions and lay them in it with another dish on
the top,, to keep them hot while you give the gravy in the pan
another boil up over the fire. You may add to it a spoonful
of mushroom catchup. Pour the gravy over the steaks, and
send them to table as hot as possible.

Mutton chops may be fried in this manner.

BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

FOR a small pudding take a pound of fresh beef suet.
Clear it from the skin and the stringy fibres, and mince it as
finely as possible. Sift into a large pan two pounds of fine
flour, and add the suet gradually, rubbing it fine with youi
hands and mixing it thoroughly. Then pour in, by degrees,
enough of cold water to make a stiff dough. Roll it out into
a large even sheet. Have ready about a pound and a half of
the best beef-steak, omitting the bone and fat which should

BEEF. 77

be all cut off. Divide the steak into small thin pieces, and
beat them well to make them tender. Season them with
pepper and salt, and, if convenient, add some mushrooms.
Lay the beef in the middle of the sheet of paste, and put on
the top a bit of butter rolled in flour. Close the paste nicely
over the meat as if you were making a large dumpling.
Dredge with flour a thick square cloth, and tie the pudding up
in it, leaving space for it to swell. Fasten the string very
firmly, and stop up with flour the little gap at the tying-place
so that no water can get in. Have ready a large pot of boil-
ing water. Put the pudding into it, and let it boil fast three
hours or more. Keep up a good fire under it, as if it stops
boiling a minute the crust will be heavy.. Have a kettle oi
boiling water at the fire to replenish the pot if it wastes too
much. Do not take up the pudding till the moment before it
goes to table. Mix some catchup with the gravy on your plate.

For a large pudding you must have two pounds of suet,
three pounds of flour, and two pounds and a half of meat. It
must boil at least five hours.

All the fat must be removed from the meat before it goes
into the pudding, as the gravy cannot be skimmed when
enclosed in the crust.

You may boil in the pudding some potatoes cut into slices.

A pudding of the lean of mutton chops may be made in the
same manner ; also of venison steaks.

A BEEF-STEAK PIE.

MAKE a good paste in the proportion of a pound of butter tc
two pounds of sifted flour. Divide it in half, and line with
one sheet of it the bottom and sides of a deep dish, which.

7*

78 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

must first be well buttered. Have ready two pounds of the
best beef-steak, cut thin, and well beaten ; the bone and
fat being omitted. Season it with pepper and salt. Spread
a layer of the steak at the bottom of the pie, and on it a layer
of sliced potato, and a few small bits of butter rolled in flour.
Then another layer of meat, potato, &c., till the dish is full.
You may greatly improve the flavour by adding mushrooms,
or chopped clams or oysters, leaving out the hard parts. If
you use clams or oysters, moisten the other ingredients with
a little of their liquor. If not, pour in, at the last, half a pint
of cold water, or less if the pie is small. Cover the pie with
the other sheet of paste as a lid, and notch the edges hand-
somely, having reserved a little of the paste to make a flower
or tulip to stick in the slit at the top. Bake it in a quick oven
an hour and a quarter, or longer, in proportion to its size. Send
it to table hot.

You may make a similar pie of mutton chops, or veal
cutlets, or venison steaks, always leaving out the bone and
fat.

. Many persons in making pies stew the meat slowly in a
little water till about half done, and they then put it with its
gravy into the paste and finish by baking. In this case add
no water to the pie, as there will be already sufficient liquid.
If you half-stew the meat, do the potatoes with it.

A-LA-MODE BEEF.

TAKE the bone out of a round of fresh beef, and beat the
meat well all over to make it tender. Chop and mix together
equal quantities of sweet marjoram and sweet basil, the leaves
picked from the stalks and rubbed fine. Chop also some

BEEF. 79

small onions or shalots, and some parsley ; the marrow from
the bone of the beef; and a quarter of a pound, or more of
suet. Add two penny rolls of stale bread grated ; and pepper,
mace, and nutmeg to your taste. Mix all these ingredients
well, and bind them together with the beaten yolks of four
eggs. Fill with this seasoning the place from whence you
took out the bone ; and rub what is left of it all over the out-
side of the meat. You must, of course, proportion the quan-
tity of stuffing to the size of the round qf beef. Fasten it well
with skewers, and tie it round firmly with a piece of tape, so
as to keep it compact and in good shape. It is best to prepare
the meat the day before it is to be cooked.

Cover the bottom of a stew-pan with slices of ham. Lay
the beef upon them, and cover the top of the meat with more
slices of ham. Place round it four large onions, four carrots,
and four turnips, all cut in thick slices. Pour in from half a
pint to a pint of water, and if convenient, add two calves' feet
cut in half. Cover the pan closely, set it in an oven and let
it bake for at least six hours ; or seven or eight, according to
the size.

When it is thoroughly done, take out the beef and lay it
on a dish with the vegetables round it. Remove the bacon

o

and calves' feet, and (having skimmed the fat from the gravy
carefully) strain it into a small sauce-pan ; set it on hot coals,
and stir into it a teacup-full of port wine, and the same quan-
tity of pickled mushrooms. Let it just come to a boil,. and
then send it to table in a sauce-tureen.

If the beef is to be eaten cold, you may ornament it as fol-
lows:— Glaze it all over with beaten white of egg. Then
cover it with a coat of boiled potato grated finely. Have
ready some slices of cold boiled carrot, and also of beet-root.
Cut, them into the form of stars or flowers, and arrange them

80 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

handsomely over the top of the meat by sticking them on the
grated potato. In the centre place a large bunch of double
parsley, interspersed with flowers cut out of raw turnips,
beets, and carrots, somewhat in imitation of white and red
roses, and marygolds. Fix the flowers on wooden skewers
concealed with parsley.

Cold a-la-mode beef prepared in this manner will at a little
distance look like a large' iced cake decorated with sugar
flowers.

You may dress a fillet of veal according to this receipt.
Of course it will require less.tim'e to stew.

TO STEW BEEF.

TAKE a good piece of fresh beef. It must not be too fat.
Wash it, rub it with salt, and put it into a pot with barely
sufficient water to cover it. Set it over a slow fire, and after it
has stewed an hour, put in some potatoes pared and .cut in
half, and some parsnips, scraped and split. Let them stew
with the beef till quite tender. Turn the meat several times in
the pot. When all is done, serve up the meat and vegetables
together, and the gravy in a boat, having first skiinmed it.

This is a good family dish.

You may add turnips (pared and sliced) to the other vege-
tables.

Fresh pork may be stewed in this manner, or with sweet
potatoes.

TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF.

TRIM off some pieces from a round of fresh beef — take out
tho bone and .break it. Put the bone and the trimmings into

BEEF. 81

a pan with some cold water, and add an onion, a carrot, and a
turnip all cut in pieces, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer
them for an hour, and having skimmed it well, strain off the
liquid. Season the meat highly \vith what is called kitchen
pepper, that is, a mixture, in equal quantities, of black pep-
per, or of cayenne, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg,
all finely powdered. Fasten it with skewers, and tie it firmly
round with tape. Lay skewers in the bottom of the stew-
pan ; place the beef upon them, and' then pour over it the
gravy you have prepared from the bone andjrimmings. Sim-
mer it about an hour and a half, and then turn tbe meat over,
and add to it three carrots, three turnips, and two onions all
sliced, and a dozen tomatas sliced. Keep the lid close,
except when you are skimming off the fat. Let the meat
stew till it is thoroughly done and tender throughout. The
time will depend on the size of the round. It may require
from five or six to eight hours.

Just before you take it up, stir into the gravy a table-spoon-
ful or two of mushroom catchup, a little made mustard, and a
piece of butter rolled in flour.

Send it to table hot, with the gravy poured round it.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF.

•

TAKE a round of fresh beef (or the half of one if it is very
large) and remove the bone. The day before you cook it,
lay it in a pickle made of equal proportions of water and
vinegar with salt to your taste. Next morning take it out of
the pickle, put it into a large pot or stew-pan, and just
cover it with water. Put in with it two or three large onions,
a few cloves, a little whole black pepper, and a large glass oi

82 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

port or claret. If it is a whole round of beef allow two
glasses of wine. Stew it slowly for at least four hours or
more, in proportion to its size. It must be thoroughly done,
and tender all through. An hour before you send it to table
take the meat out of th'e pot, and pour the gravy into a pan.
Put a large lump of butter into the pot, dredge the beef with
flour, and return it to .the pot to brown, turning it often to
prevent its burning. Or it -will be better to put it into a
Dutch oven. Cover the lid with hot coals, renewing them as
they go out. Take the gravy that you poured from tr?e meat,
and skim off all the fat. Put it into a sauce-pan, and mix with
it a little butter rolled in flour, and add some more cloves and
wine. Give it a boil up. If it is not well browned, burn
some sugar on a hot shovel, and stir it in.

If you like it stuffed, have ready when you take the meat
out of the pickle, a force-meat of grated bread crumbs, sweet
herbs, butter, spice, pepper and salt, and minced parsley,
mixed with beaten yolk of egg. Fill with this the opening
from whence you took the bone, and bind a tape firmly round
the meat.

BEEF BOUILLI.

TAKE part of a round of fresh beef (or if you prefer it a
piece of the flank or brisket) and rub it with salt. Place
skewers in the bottom of the stew-pot, and lay the meat upon
them with barely water enough to cover it. To enrich the
gravy you may add the necks and other trimmings of what-
ever poultry you may happen to have; also the root of a
tongue, if convenient. Cover the pot, and set it over a quick
fire. When it boils and the scum has risen, skim it well, and
then diminish the fire so that the meat shall only simmer ;

BEEF. 83

or you may set the pot on hot coals. Then put in four or five
carrots sliced thin, a head of celery cut up, and four or five
sliced turnips. Add a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small
table-spoonful of black peppercorns tied in a thin muslin rag.
Let it stew slowly for four or five hours, and then add a dozen
very small onions roasted and peeled, and a large table-spoon-
ful of capers or nasturtians. You may, if you choose, 'stick a
clove in each onion. Simmer it half an hour longer, then
take up the meat, and place it in a dish, laying the vegetables
round it. Skim and strain the gravy ; season it with catchup,
and made mustard, and serve it up in a boat.
Mutton may be cooked in this manner.

HASHED BEEF.

TAKE some roast beef that has been rather under-done,
and having cut off the fat and skin, put the trimmings
with the bones broken up into a stew-pan with two large
onions sliced, a few sliced potatoes, and a bunch of sweet
herbs. Add about a pint of warm water, or broth if you have
it. This is to make the gravy. Cover it closely, and let it
simmer for about an hour. Then skim and strain it, carefully
removing every particle of fat.

Take another stew-pot, and melt in it a piece of butter,
about the size of a large walnut. When it has melted, shake
in a spoonful of flour. Stir it a few -minutes, and then add
to it the strained gravy. Let it come to a boil, and then -put
to it a table-spoonful of catchnp, and the beef cut either in
thin small slices or in mouthfuls. Let it simmer from five to
ten minutes, but do not allow it to boil, lest (having beef
cooked already) it should become tasteless and insipid

84 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

Serve it up in a deep dish with thin slices of toast cut- into
triangular or pointed pieces, the crust omitted. Dip the toast
in the gravy, and lay the pieces in regular order round the
sides of the dish.

You may hash mutton or veal' in the same manner, adding
sliced carrots, turnips, potatoes, or any vegetables you please.
Tomatas are an improvement.

To hash cold meat is an economical way of using it ; but
there is little or no 'nutriment in it after being twice cooked,
and the natural flavour is much impaired by the process.

Hashed meat would always be much better if the slices
were cut from the joint or large piece as soon as it leaves the
table, and soaked in the gravy till next day.

BEEF CAKES.

TAKE some cold roast beef that has been under-done, and
mince it very fine. Mix with it grated bread crumbs, and a
little chopped onion and parsley. Season it with pepper and
salt, and moisten it with some beef-dripping and a little wal-
nut or onion pickle. Some scraped cold tongue or ham will
be found an improvement. Make it into broad flat cakes, and
spread a coat of mashed potato thinly on the top and bottom

of each. Lay a small bit of butter on the top of every

»
cake, and set them in an oven to warm and brown.

Beef cakes are frequently a breakfast dish.

Any other cold fresh meat may be prepared in the same
manner.

Cold roast beef may be cut into slices, seasoned with salt
and pepper, broiled a few minutes over a clear fire, and served
up hot with a little butter spread on them.

BEEF.

85

TO ROAST A BEEF'S' HE ART.

CUT open the heart, and (having removed the ventricles)
soak it in cold water to free it from the blood. Parboil it
about ten minutes. Prepare a force-meat of grated bread
crumbs, butter or minced suet, sweet marjoram and parsley
chopped finel^a little grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, and
salt to your taste, and some yolk of egg to bind the ingredients.
Stuif the heart with the force-meat, and secure the opening
by tying a string around it. Put it on a spit, and roast it till
it is tender throughout.

Add to the gravy a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a
glass of red wine. Serve up the heart very hot in a covered
dish. It chills immediately.

Eat currant jelly with it.

Boiled beef's heart is frequently used in mince pies.

TO STEW A BEEF'S HEART.

CLEAN the heart, and cut it lengthways into large pieces.
Put them into a pot with a little salt and pepper, and cover
them with cold water. Parboil them for a quarter of an hour,
carefully skimming off the blood that rises to the top. Then
take them out, cut them into mouthfuls, and having strained
the liquid, return them to it, adding a head or two of chopped
celery, a few sliced onions, a dozen potatoes pared and quar-
tered, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Season with whole
pepper, and a few cloves if you like. Let it stew slowly till
all the pieces of heart and the vegetables are quite tender.

You may stew a beef's kidney in the same manner.

The heart and liver of a calf make a good dish cooked as

above.

8

R6 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY.

HAVING soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in
a cloth, cut it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine. Dust
it with flour. Put some butter into a stew-pan over a mode-
rate fire, and when it boils put in the minced kidney. When
you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle dl a little salt
and cayenne pepper, and pour in a very little boiling water.
Add a glass of champagne or other wine, or a large tea-spoon-
ful of mushroom catchup, or of walnut pickle. Cover the
pan closely, and let it stew till the kidney is tender. Send
it to table hot in a covered dish. It is eaten generally at
breakfast.

TO BOIL TRIPE.

WASH it well in warm water, and trim it nicely, taking off
all the fat. Cut it into small pieces, and put it on to boil
five" hours before dinner, in water enough to cover it very
well. After it has boiled four hours, pour off the water, sea-
son the tripe with pepper and salt, and put it into a pot with
milk and water mixed in equal quantities. Boil it an hour in
the milk and water.

Boil in a sauce-pan ten or a dozen onions. When they are
quite soft, drain them in a cullender, and mash them. Wipe
out your sauce-pan and put them on again, with a bit of butter
rolled in flour, and a wine-glass of cream or milk. Let them
boil up, and add them to the tripe just before you send it to
table. Eat it with pepper, vinegar, and mustard.

It is best to give tripe its first and longest boiling the day
before it is wanted.

BEEF. 87

TRIPE AND OYSTERS.

HAVING boiled the tripe in milk and water, for four or five
hours till it is quite tender, cut it up into small pieces. Put
it into a stew-pan with just milk enough to cover it, and a
few blades of mace. Let it stew about five minutes, and then
put in the oysters, adding a large piece of butter rolled in
flour, and salt and cayenne pepper to your taste. Let it stew
five minutes longer, and then send it to table in a tureen ;
first skimming off whatever fat may float on the surface.

TO FRY TRIPE.

BOIL the tripe the day before, till it is quite tender, which
it will not be in less than four or five hours. Then cover it
and set it away. Next day cut it into long slips, and dip
each piece into beaten yolk of egg, and afterwards roll them
in grated bread crumbs. Have ready in a frying-pan over the
fire, some good beef-dripping. When it is boiling hot put in
the tripe, and fry it about ten minutes, till of a light brown.

You may serve it up with onion sauce.

Boiled tripe that has been left from the dinner of the pre-
ceding day may be fried in this manner.

PEPPER POT.

TAKE four pounds of tripe, and four ox feet. Put them into
a large pot with as much water as will cover them, some
whole pepper, and a little salt. Hang them over the fire
early in the morning. Let them boil slowly, keeping the
pot closely covered. , When the tripe is quite tender, and the

86 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

ox feet boiled to pieces, take them out, and skim the liquid
and strain it. Then cut the tripe into small pieces ; put it
hack into the pot, and pour the soup or liquor over it. Have
ready some sweet herbs chopped fine, some sliced onions, and
some sliced potatoes. Make some small dumplings with
flour and butter. Season the vegetables well with pepper
and salt, and put them into the pot. Have ready a kettle
of boiling water, and pour on as much as will keep the ingre-
dieryts covered while boiling, but take care not to weaken the
taste by putting too much water. Add a large piece of butter
rolled in flour, and lastly put in the dumplings. Let it boil
till all the things are thoroughly done, and then serve it up in
the tureen.

TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE.

IN buying dried tongues, choose those that are thick and
plump, and that have the smoothest skins. They are the
most likely to be young and tender.

A smoked tongue should soak in cold water at least all
night. One that is very hard and dry will require twenty-
four hours' soaking. When you boil it put it into a pot full
of cold \vater. Set it over a slow fire that it may heat gra-
dually for an hour before it comes to a boil. Then keep it
simmering from three and a half to four hours, according to its
size and age. Probe it with a fork, and do not take it up till
it is tender throughout. Send it to table with mashed potato
laid round it, and garnish with parsley. Do not split it in
half when you dish it, as is the practice with some cooks.
Cutting it lengthways spoils the flavour, and renders it com-
paratively insipid.

If you wish to serve up the tongue very handsomely, rub it

BEEF. 89

with yolk of egg after you take it from the pot, and strew
over it grated bread crumbs ; baste it with butter, and set it
before the fire till it becomes of a light brown. Cover the
root (which is always an unsightly object) with thick sprigs
of double parsley ; and (instead of mashed potato) lay slices
of currant jelly all round the tongue.

TO BOIL A SALTED OR PICKLED TONGUE.

PUT it into boiling water, and let it boil three hours or more,
according to its size. When you take it out peel and trim it,
and send it to table surrounded with mashed potato, and gar-
nished with sliced carrot.

TO CORN BEEF.

WASH the beef well, after it has lain awhile in cold water.
Then drain and examine it, take out all the kernels, and rub
it plentifully with salt. It will imbibe the salt more readily
after being washed.- In cold weather warm the salt by placing
it before the fire. This will cause it to penetrate the meat
more thoroughly.

In summer do not attempt to corn any beef that has not
been fresh killed, and even then it will not keep more than a
day and a half or two days. Wash and dry it, and rub a
great deal of salt well into it. Cover it carefully, and keen
it in a cold dry cellar.

Pork is corned in the same manner.

8*

90 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

TO PICKLE BEEF OR TONGUES.

The beef must be fresh killed, and of the best kind. You
must wipe every piece well, to dry it from the blood and
moisture. To fifty pounds of meat allow two pounds and a
quarter of coarse salt, two pounds and a quarter of fine salt,
one ounce and a half of saltpetre, two pounds of good brown
sugar, and two quarts of molasses. Mix all these ingre-
dients well together, boil and skim it for about twenty minutes,
and when no more scum rises, take it from the fire. Have
ready the beef in a large tub, or in a barrel ; pour the brine
gradually upon it with a ladle, and as it cools rub it well into
every part of the meat. A molasses hogshead sawed in two
is a good receptacle for pickled meat. Cover it well with a
thick cloth, and look at it frequently, skimming off whatever
may float on the top, and basting the meat with the brine.
In about a fortnight the beef will be fit for use.

Tongues may be put into the same cask with the beef, one
or two at a time, as you procure them from the butcher. None
of them will be ready for smoking in less than six weeks ;
but they had best remain in pickle seven or eight months.
They should not be sent to the smoke-house later than March.
If you do them at home, they will require three weeks' smoking
over a wood fire. Hang them with the root or large end
upwards. When done, sew up each tongue tightly in coarse
linen, and hang them up in a dark dry cellar.

Pickled tongues without smoking are seldom liked.

The last of October is a good time for putting meat into
pickle. If the weather is too warm or too cold, it will not
\ake the salt well.

In the course of the winter the pickle may probably require
a second boiling with additional ingredients.

BEEF. Ql

•

Half an ounce of pearl-ash added to the other articles will

•

make the meat more tender, but many persons thinks it injures
the taste.

The meat must always be kept completely immersed
in the brine. To effect this a heavy board should be laid
upon it.

DRIED OR SMOKED BEEF.

THE best part for this purpose is the round, \vhich you
must desire the butcher to cut into four pieces. Wash the
meat and dry it well in a cloth. Grind or beat to powder an
equal quantity of cloves and mace, and having mixed them
together, rub them well into the beef with your hand. The
spice will be found a great improvement both to the taste and
smell of the meat. Have ready a pickle made precisely as
that in the preceding article. Boil and skim it, and (the meat
having been thoroughly rubbed all over with the spice)
pour on the pickle as before directed. Keep the beef in the
pickle at least six weeks, and then smoke it about three
weeks. Com cobs make a good fire for smoking meat.

Smoked beef is brought on the tea-table either shaved into

o

thin chips without cooking, or chipped and fried in a skillet
with some butter and beaten egg.

This receipt for dried or smoked beef will answer equally
well for venison ham, which is also used as a relish at the
tea-table.

Mutton hams may be prepared in the same way.

92 DIRECTIONS'FOR COOKING MEAT.

POTTED BEEF.

•

TAKE a good piece of a round of beef, and cut off all the
fat. Rub the lean well with salt, and let it lie two days.
Then put it into ajar, and add to it a little water in the pro-
portion of half a pint to three pounds of meat. Cover the jar
as closely as possible, (the best cover will be a coarse paste
or dough) and set it in a slow oven, or in a vessel of boiling
water for about four hours. Then drain off all the gravy and
set the meat before the fire that all the moisture may be drawn
out. Pull or cut it to pieces and pound it for a long time in
a m'ortar with black pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and
oiled fresh butter, adding these ingredients gradually, and

•

moistening it with a little of the gravy. You must pound it
to a fine paste, or till it becomes of the consistence of cream
cheese.

Put it into potting cans, and cover it an inch thick with
fresh butter that has been melted, skimmed, and strained.
Tie a leather over each pot, and keep them closely covered.
Set them in a dry place.

Game and poultry may be potted in this manner.

93

V E A L.

GENERAL REMARKS.

THE fore-quarter of a calf comprises the neck, breast, and
shoulder: the hind-quarter consists of the loin, fillet, and
knuckle." Separate dishes are made of the head, heart, liver,
and sweetbread. The flesh of good veal is firm and dry, and
the joints stiff. The lean is of a very light delicate red, and
the fat quite white. In buying the head see that the eyes
look full, plump, and lively j if they are dull and sunk the
calf has been killed too long. In buying calves' feet for jelly
or soup, endeavour to get those that have been singed only,
and not skinned ; as a great deal of gelatinous substance is
contained in the skin. Veal should always be thoroughly
cooked, and never brought to table rare or under-done, like
beef or mutton. The least redness in the meat or gravy is
disgusting.

Veal suet may be used as a substitute for that of beef; also
veal-dripping.

TO ROAST A LOIN OF' VEAL.

THE loin is the best part of the calf. It is always roasted.
See that your fire is clear and hot, and broad enough to brown
both ends. Cover the fat of the kidney and the back with
paper to prevent it from scorching. A large loin of veal will
require at least four hours and a half to roast it sufficiently.
At first set the roaster at a tolerable distance from the fire that
the meat may heat gradually in the beginning ; afterwards
place it nearer. Put a little salt and water into the dripping-

94 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

pan and baste the meat with it till the gravy begins to drop.
Then baste with the gravy. When the meat is nearly done,
move it close to the fire, dredge it writh a very little flour, and
baste it with butter. Skim the fat from the gravy, which
should be thickened by shaking in a very small quantity of
flour. Put it into a small sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals.
Let it just come to a boil, and then send it to table in a boat.
If the gravy is not in sufficient quantity, add to it about half
a jill or a large wine-glass of boiling water.

In carving a loin of veal help every one to a piece of the
kidney as far as it will go.

.

TO ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL.

A BREAST of veal will require about three hours and a half
to roast. In preparing it for the spit, cover it with the caul,
and skew^er the sweetbread to the back. Take off the caul
when the meat is nearly done. The breast, being compara-
tively tough and coarse, is less esteemed than the loin and
the fillet.

TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEAL.

TAKE out the bone, and secure with skewers the fat flap to
the outside of the meat. Prepare a stuffing of fresh butter or
suet minced fine, and an equal quantity of grated bread-crumbs,
a large table-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, a table-spoonful
of sweet marjoram chopped or rubbed to powder, a nutmeg
grated, and a little pepper and salt, with a sprig of chopped
parsley. Mix all these ingredients with beaten yolk of egg,
and stuff the place from whence the bone was taken. Make

VEAL. U5

deep cuts or incisions all ever the top of the veal, and fill them
with some of the stuffing. You may stick into each hole an
inch of fat ham or bacon, cut very thin.

Having papered the fat, spit the veal and put it into the
roaster, keeping1 it at first not too near the fire. Put a little
salt and water into the dripping-pan, and for awhile baste the
meat with it. Then baste it with its own gravy. A fillet of
veal will require four hours roasting. As it proceeds, place
it nearer to the fire. Half an hour before it is done, remove
the paper, and baste the meat with butter, having first dredged
it very lightly with flour. Having skimmed the gravy, mix
some thin melted butter with it.

If convenient, you may in making the stuffing, use a large
proportion of chopped mushrooms that have been preserved
in sweet oil, or of chopped pickled oysters. Cold ham shred
fine will improve it. •

You may stuff a fillet of veal entirely with sausage meat.

To accompany a fillet of veal, the usual dish is boiled ham
or bacon.

A shoulder of veal may be stuffed and roasted in a similar
manner.

TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.

DIVIDE the breast into pieces according to the position of
the bones. Put them into a stew-pan with a few Alices of
ham, some whole pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a
sliced onion. Add sufficient water to keep it from burning,
and let it stew slowly till the meat is quite tender. Then put
to it a quart or more of green peas that have boiled twenty
minutes in another pot, and a piece of butter rolled in flour.
Let all stew together a quarter of an hour longer. Serve it

96 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

up, with the veal in the middle, tte peas round it, and the
ham laid on the peas.

Vou may stew a breast of veal with tomatas.

TO STEW A FILLET OF VEAL.

TAKE a fillet of veal, wipe it well, and then with a sharp
knife make deep incisions all over the surface, the bottom as
well as the top and sides. Make a stuffing of grated stale bread,
butter, chopped sweet marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg,
pepper and salt, mixed up with beaten yolk of egg to bind and
give it consistency. Fill the holes or incisions with the stuf-
fing, pressing it down well with your fingers. Reserve some
of the stuffing to rub all over the outside of the meat. Have
ready some very thin slices of cold boiled ham, the fatter the
better. Cover the veal with them, fastening them on with
skewers. Put it into a pot, and stew it slowly in a very
little water, just enough to cover it. It will take at least
five hours to stew ; or more, in proportion to its size. When
done, take offthe ham, and lay it round the veal in a dish.

You may stew with it a quart or three pints of young green
peas, put in about an hour before dinner ; add to them a little
butter and pepper while they are stewing. Serve them up in
the dish with the veal, laying the slices of ham upon them.

If you omit the ham, stew the veal entirely in lard.

TO STEW A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

LAY four wooden skewers across the bottom of your stew-
pan, and place the meat upon them ; having first carefully
washed it, and rubbed it with salt. Add a table-spoonful of

V E A L. 97

cvhole pepper, the leaves from a bunch of sweet marjoram, a
sprig- of parsley leaves chopped, two onions peeled and sliced,
and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour in two quarts of
water. Cover it closel}T, and after it has coine to a boil, lessen
the fire, and let the meat only simmer for two hours or more.
Before you serve it up, pour the liquid over it.

This dish will be greatly improved by stewing with it
a few slices of ham, or the remains of a cold ham.

Veal when simply boiled is too insipid. To stew it is
much better.

VEAL CUTLETS.

THE best cutlets are those taken from the leg or fillet. Cut
them about half an inch thick, and as large as the palm of
your hand. Season them with pepper and salt. Grate some
stale bread, and rub it through a cullender, adding to it
chopped sweet marjoram, grated lemon-peel, and some pow-
dered mace or nutmeg. Spread the mixture on a large flat
dish. Have ready in a pan some beaten egg. First dip each
cutlet into the egg, and then into the seasoning on the dish,
seeing that a sufficient quantity adheres to both sides of the
meat. Melt in your frying-pan, over a quick fire, some beef-
dripping, lard, or fresh butter, and when it boils lay your qjit-
lets .in it, and fry them thoroughly; turning them on both
sides, and taking care that they do not burn. Place them in
a covered dish near the fire, while you finish the gravy in the
pan, by first skimming it, and then shaking in a little flour
and stirring it round. Pour the gravy hot round the cutlets,
and garnish with little bunches of curled parsley.

You may mix with the bread crumbs a little saffron.

9

98 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

VEAL STEAKS.

CUT a neck of veal into thin steaks, and beat them to make
them tender. For seasoning, mix together some finely
chopped onion sprinkled with pepper and salt, and a little
chopped parsley. Add some butter, and put it with the par-
sley and onion into a small sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals
to stew till brown. In the mean time, put the steaks on a hot
gridiron (the bars of which have been rubbed with suet) and
broil them well, over a bed of bright clear coals. When suf-
ficiently done on one side turn them on the other. After the
last turning, cover each steak with some of the* seasoning
from the sauce-pan, and let all broil together till thoroughly
done.

Instead of the onions and parsley, you may season the veal
steaks with chopped mushrooms, or with chopped oysters,
browned in butter.

Have ready a gravy made of the scraps and trimmings of
the veal, seasoned with pepper and salt, and boiled in a little
hot water in the same sauce-pan in which the parsley and
onions have been previously stewed. Strain the gravy when
it has boiled long enough, and flavour it with catchup.

MINCED VEAL.

TAKE some cold veal, cut it into slices, and mince it very
finely with a chopping-knife. Season it to your taste with
pepper, salt, sweet marjoram rubbed fine, grated lemon-peel
•and nutmeg. Put the bones and trimmings into a sauce-pan
with a little water, and simmer them over hot coals to extract
the gravy from them. Then put the minced veal into a stew-
pan, strain the gravy over it, add a piece of butter rolled in

VEAL. 90

Hour, and a little milk or cream. Let it all simmer too-other

* f^

till thoroughly warmed, but do not allow it to boil lest the
meat having been once cooked already, should become taste-
less. "When you serve it up, have ready some three-cornered
pieces of bread toasted and buttered ; place them all round
the inside of the dish.

Or you may cover the mince with a thick layer of grated
bread, moistened with a little butter, and browned on the top
with a salamander, or a red hot shovel.

VEAL PATTIES.

MINCE very fine a pound of the lean of cold roast veal, and
half a pound of cold boiled ham, (fat and lean equally mixed.)
Put it into a stew-pan with three ounces of butter divided into
bits and rolled in flour, a jiil of cream, and a jill of veal gravy.
Season it to your taste with cayenne pepper and nutmeg,
grated lemon-peel, and lemon-juice. Set the pan on hot coals,
and let the ingredients simmer till well warmed, stirring
them well to prevent their burning.

Have, ready baked, some small shells of puff-paste. Fill
them with the mixture, and eat the patties either warm or
cold.

VEAL PIE.

TAKE two pounds of veal cut from the loin, fillet, or the best
end of the neck. Remove the bone, fat, and skin, and put
them into a sauce-pan with half a pint of water to stew for the
gravy. Make a good paste, allowing a pound of butter to
two pounds of flour. Divide it into two pieces, roll it out

^

o -i -i A n n A

100 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

rather thick, and cover with one piece the sides and bottom of
a deep dish. Put in a layer of veal, seasoned with black
pepper, then a layer of cold ham sliced thin, then more veal,
more ham, and so on till the dish is fall ; interspersing the
meat with yolks of eggs boiled hard. If you can procure
some small button mushrooms they will be found an improve-
ment. Pour in, at the last, the gravy you have drawn from
the trimmings, and put on the lid of the pie, notching the
edge handsomely, and ornamenting the centre with a flowei
made of paste. Bake the pie at least two hours and a half.

You may make a very plain veal pie simply of veal chops,
sliced onions, and potatoes pared and quartered. Season with
pepper and salt, and fill up the dish with water.

CALF'S HEAD DREST PLAIN.

WASH the head in warm water. Then lay it in clean hot
water and let it soak awhile. This will blanch it. Take out
the brains and the black part of the eyes. Tie the head
in a cloth, and put it into a large fish-kettle, with plenty of
cold water, and add some salt to throw up the scum, which
musi be taken off as it rises. Let the head boil gently about
three hours.

Put eight or ten sage leaves, and as much parsley, into a
small sauce-pan with a little water, and boil them half an
hour. Then chop them fine, and set them ready on a plate.
Wash the brains well in two warm waters, and then soak
them for an hour in a basin of cold water with a little salt in
it. Remove the skin and strings, and then put the brains into
a stew-pan with plenty of cold water, and let them boil gently
for a quarter of an hour, skimming them well. Take them

VEAL. 101

out, chop them, and mix them with the sage arid parsley
leaves, two table-spoonfuls of melted butter, and the yolks of
four hard-boiled eggs, and pepper and salt to your taste.
Then put the mixture into a sauce-pan and set it onv coals to
warm.

Take up the head when it is sufficiently boiled, score it in dia-
monds, brush it all over with beaten egg, and strew it writh a
mixture of grated bread-crumbs, and chopped sage and parsley.
Stick a few bits of butter over it, and set it in a Dutch oven
to. brown. Serve it up with the brains laid round it. Or you
may send to table the brains and the tongue in a small
separate dish, having first trimmed the tongue and cut off the
roots. Have also parsley-sauce in a boat. You may garnish
with very thin small slices of broiled ham, curled up.

If you get a calf's head with the hair onj sprinkle it all
over with pounded rosin, and dip it into boiling water. This
will make the hairs scrape off easily.

CALF'S HEAD HASHED.

TAKE a calf's head and a set of feet, and boil them until
tender, having first removed the brains. Then cut the flesh

7 O

off the head and feet in slices from the bone, and put both
meat and bones into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs,
some sliced onions, and pepper and salt to your taste ; also a
large piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little water. After
it has stewed awhile slowly till the flavour is well extracted
frcm the herbs and onions, take out the meat, season it a little
with cayenne pepper, and lay it in a dish. Strain the gravy
in which it was stewed, and stir into it two glasses of ma-
deira, and the juice and grated peel of a lemon. Having

9*

102 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

poured some of the gravy over the meat, lay a piece of butter
on the top, set it in an oven and bake it brown.

In the mean time, having cleaned and washed the brains
(skinning them and removing the strings) parboil them in a
sauce-pan, and then make them into balls with chopped
sweet herbs, grated bread-crumbs, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg,
and beaten yolk of egg. Fry them in lard and butter mixed ;
and send them to table laid round tlie meat (which should
have the tongue placed on the trp) and garnish with sliced
iemon. Warm the remaining gravy in a small sauce-pan on
hot coals, and stir into it the beaten yolk of an egg a minute
before you take it from the fire. Send it to table in a boat.

CHITTERLINGS OR CALF'S TRIPE.

SEE that the chitterlings are very nice and white. Wash
them, cut them into pieces, and put them into a stew-pan
with pepper and salt to your taste, and about two quarts of
water. Boil them two hours or more. In the mean time,
peel eight or ten white onions, and throw them whole into a
sauce-pan with plenty of water. Boil them slowly till quite
soft ; then drain them in a cullender, and mash them. Wipe
out your sauce-pan, and put in the mashed onions with a
piece of butter, two table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk,
some nutmeg, and a very little salt. SprinkleNn a little
flour, set the pan on hot coals (keeping it well covered) and
give it one boil up.

W^hen the chitterlings are quite tender all through, take
them up and drain them. Place in the bottom of a dish a
slice or two of buttered toast with all the crust cut off. Lay
the chitterlings on the toast, and send them to table with the

VEAL. 103

stewed onions in a sauce-boat. When you take the chitterlings
on your plate season them with pepper and vinegar.
This, if properly prepared, is a very nice dish.

TO FRY CALF'S FEET.

HAVING first boiled them till tender, cut them in two, and
(having taken out the large bones) season the feet with pep-
per and salt, and dredge them well with flour. Strew some
chopped parsley or sweet marjoram over them, and fry them
of a light brown in lard or butter. Serve them up with pars-
ley-sauce.

TO FRY CALF'S LIVER.

CUT the liver into thin slices. Season it with pepper, salt,
chopped sweet herbs, and parsley. Dredge it with flour, and
fry it brown in lard or dripping. See that it is thoroughly
done before you send it to table. Serve it up with its own
gravy.

Some slices of cold boiled ham fried with it will be found
an improvement. If you use ham, add no salt.

You may dress a calf's heart in the same manner.

LARDED CALF'S LIVER.

TAKE a calf's liver and wash it well. Cut into long
slips the fat of some bacon or oM ham, and insert it all
through the surface of the liver by means of a larding-pin.
Put the liver into a pot with a table-spoonful of lard, a few
sliced tomatas, or gome tomata catchup ; adding one large

104 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT,

4

or two small onions minced fine, and some sweet marjoram
leaves rubbed very fine. The sweet marjoram will crumble
more easily if you first dry it before the fire on a plate.

Having put in all these ingredients, set the pot on hot coals
in the corner of the fire-place, and keep it stewing, regularly
and slowly, for four hours. Send the liver to table with the
gravy round it.

TO ROAST SWEET-BREADS.

TAKE four fine sweet-breads, and having trimmed them
nicely, parboil them, and then lay them in a pan of cold
water till they become cool. Afterwards dry them in a cloth.
Put some butter into a sauce-pan, set it on hot coals, and melt
and skim it. When it is quite clear, take it off. Have ready
some beaten egg in one dish, and some grated bread-crumbs
in another. Skewer each sweet-bread, and fasten them on a
spit. Then glaze them all over with egg, and sprinkle them
with bread-crumbs. Spread on some of the clarified butter,
and then another coat of crumbs. Roast jthem before a clear
fire, at least a quarter of an hour. Have ready some nice veal
gravy flavoured with lemon-juice, and pour it round the sweet-
breads before you send them to table.

LARDED SWEET-BREADS.

PARBOIL four or five of the largest sweet-breads you can
get. .This should be done as soon as they are brought in, as
few things spoil more rapidly if not cooked at once. When
half boiled, lay them in cold water. Prepare a force-meat of
grated bread, lemon-peel, butter, cayenne, and nutmeg
mixed with beaten yolk of egg. Cut open the sweet-breads and

VEAL. 105

,

stuff the* with it, fastening them afterwards with a skewer, or
tying them round with packthread. Have ready some slips of
bacon-fat, and some slips of lemon-peel cut about the thick-
ness of very small straws. Lard the sweet-breads with them
in alternate rows of bacon and lemon-peel, drawing them
through with a larding-needle. Do it regularly and hand-
somely. Then put the sweet-breads into a Dutch oven, and
bake them brown. Serve tbem up with veal gravy flavoured
with a glass of Madeira, and enriched with beaten yo'k of
egg stirred in at the last.

MARBLED VEAL.

HAVING boiled and skinned two fine smoked tongues, cut
them to pieces and pound them to a paste in a mortar, moist-
tening them with plenty of butter as you proceed. Have ready
an equal quantity of the lean of veal stewed and cut into very
small pieces. Pound the veal also in a mortar, adding butter to
it by degrees. The tongue and veal must be kept separate till
both have been pounded. Then fill your potting cans with
lumps of the veal and tongue, pressed down hard, and so placed,
that when cut, the mixture will look variegated or marbled.
Close the cans with veal ; again press it down very hard, and
finish by pouring on clarified butter. Cover the cans closely,
and keep them in a dry place. It maybe eaten at tea or sup-
per. Send it to table cut in slices.

You may use it for sandwiches.

To clarify butter, cut it up, melt it in a sauce-pan over the
fire, and skim it well.

106

MUTTON AND LAMB.

GENERAL REMARKS.

THE fore-quarter of a sheep contains the neck, breast, and
shoulder ; and the hind-quarter the loin and leg. The two
loins together are called the chine or saddle. The flesh of
good mutton is of a bright red, and a close grain, and the fat
firm and quite white. The meat will feel tender and springy
when you squeeze it with your fingers. The vein in the neck
of the fore-quarter should be of a fine blue.

Lamb is always roasted ; generally a whole quarter at once.
In earring lamb, the first thing done is to separate the shoul-
der from the breast, or the leg from the loin.

If the weather is cold enough to allow it, mutton is more
lender after being kept a few days.

TO ROAST MUTTON.

MUTTON should be roasted with a quick brisk fire. Every
part should be trimmed off that cannot be eaten. Wash the
meat well. The skin should be taken off and skewered on again
before the meat is put on the spit ; this will make it more juicy.
Otherwise tie paper over the fat, having soaked the twine in
water to prevent the string from burning-. Put a little salt
and water into the dripping-pan, to baste the meat at first, then
use its own gravy for that purpose. A quarter of an hour
before you think it will be done, take off the skin or paper,

MUTTON A^D LAMB. 107

dredge the meat very lightly with flour, and baste it with
butter. Skim the gravy and send it to table in a boat.

A leg of mutton will require from two hours roasting to two
hours and a half in proportion to its size. A chine or saddle,
from two hours and a half, to three hours. A shoulder, from
an hour and a half, to two hours. A loin, from an hour and
three quarters, to two hours. A haunch (that is a leg with
part of the loin) cannot be well roasted in less than four
hours.

Always have some currant jelly on the table to eat with
roast mutton. It should also be accompanied by mashed
turnips.

Slices cut from a cold leg of mutton that has been under-
done, are very nice broiled or warmed on a gridiron, and sent
to the breakfast table covered with currant jelly.

Pickles are always eaten with mutton.

In preparing a leg of mutton for roasting, you may make
deep incisions in it, and stuff them with chopped oysters, or
with a force-meat made in the usual manner ; or with chest-
nuts parboiled and peeled. The gravy will be improved by
stirring into it a glass of port wine.

TO BOIL MUTTON.

To prepare a leg of mutton for boiling, wash it clean, cut
a small piece off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle. Put
it into a pot with water enough to cover it, and boil it gently
for three hours, skimming it well. Then take it from the
fire, and keeping the pot well covered, let it finish by remain-
ing in the steam for ten or fifteen minutes. Serve it up with
a sauce-boat of melted butter into which a tea-cup full of
capers or nasturtians have been stirred. •

108 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

Have mashed turnips to eat with it.

A few small onions boiled in the water with the mutton are
ihoughtby some to improve the flavour of the meat. It is much
better- when sufficient time is allowed to boil or simmer it
slowly; for instance, four hours.

A neck or a loin of mutton will require also about three
hours slow boiling. These pieces should on no account be
sent to table the least under-done. Serve up with them carrots
and whole turnips. You may add a dish of suet dumplings
to eat with the meat, made of finely chopped suet mixed with
double its quantity of flour, and a little cold water.

MUTTON CH

!

TAKE chops or steaks from a loin s^) fton, cuTfiJEje bone
close to the meat, and trim off the skiitpjft^ part Bihe fat.
Beat them to make them tender, and season tbe^ j^fepepper

^^^^^^^^

and salt. Make your gridiron hot over a bed of clear bright
coals ; rub the bars with suet, and lay on the chops. Turn
them frequently ; and if the fat that falls from them causes a
blaze and smoke, remove the gridiron for a moment till it is
over. When they are thoroughly done, put them into a warm
dish and butter them. Keep them covered till a moment be-
fore they are to be eaten.

When the chops have been turned for the last time, you
may strew over them some finely minced onion moistened
with boiling water, and seasoned writh pepper.

Some like them flavoured with mushroom catchup.

Another way of dressing mutton chops is, after trimming
them nicely and seasoning them with pepper and salt, to lay
them f<5r awhile in melted butter. When they have imbibed

MUTTON AND LA MB. 109

a sufficient quantity, take them out, and cover them all over
with grated bread-crumbs. Broil them over a clear fire, and
see that the bread does not burn.

CUTLETS A LAMAINTENON.

CUT a neck of mutton into steaks with a bone in each ; trim
them nicely, and scrape clean the end of the bone. Flatten
them with a rolling pin, or a meat beetle, and lay them in
oiled butter. Make a seasoning of hard-boiled yolk of egtf
and sweet-herbs minced small, grated bread, pepper, salt, and
nutmeg ; and, if you choose, a little minced onion. Take the
chops out of the butter, and cover them with the seasoning.
Butter some half sheets of white paper, and put the cutlets
into them, so as to be entirely covered, securing the paper
with pins or strings ; and twisting them nicely round the bone.
Heat your gridiron over some bright lively coals. Lay the
cutlets on it, and broil them about twenty minutes. The cus-
tom of sending them to table in the papers had best be omitted,
as (unless managed by a French cook) these envelopes, after
being on the gridiron, make a very bad appearance.

Serve them up hot, with mushroom sauce in a boat, or with
a brown gravy, flavoured with red wine. You may make the
gravy of the bones and trimmings, stewed in a little water,
skimmed well, and strained when sufficiently stewed. Thicken
it with flour browned in a Dutch oven, and add a glass of red
wine.

You may bake these cutlets in a Dutch oven without the
papers. Moisten them frequently with a little oiled bntter.

10

110 DIRECTIONS FOR COO^NlNG MEAT.

STEWED MUTTON CHOPS.

CUT a loin or neck of mutton into chops, and trim away the
fat and bones. Beat and flatten them. Season them with
pepper and salt, and put them into a stew-pan with barely
sufficient water to cover them, and some sliced carrots, tur-
nips, onions, potatoes, and a bunch of sweet herbs, or a few
tomatas. Let the whole stew slowly about three hours, or
till every thing is tender. Keep the pan closely covered,
except when you are skimming it.

Send it to table with sippets or three-cornered pieces of
toasted bread, laid all round the dish.

HASHED MUTTON.

CUT into small pieces the lean of some cold mutton that has
been underdone, and season it with pepper and salt. Take
the bones and other trimmings, put them into a
with as much water as will cover them, and sc
onions, and let them stew till you have drawn
good gravy. Having skimmed it well, strain tl
a stew-pan, and put the mutton into it. Have
some carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions. SliejFftiem, and
add them to the meat and gravy. Set the pan on hot coals,
and let it simmer till the meat is warmed through, but do not
allow it to boil, as it has been once cooked already. Cover
the bottom of a dish with slices of buttered toast. Lay the
meat and vegetables upon it, and pour over them the gravy.

Tomatas will be found an improvement.

If green peas, or Lima beans are in season, you may boil
them, and put them to the hashed mutton ; leaving out the
other vegetables, or serving them up separately.

MUTTON AND LA MB. Ill

A CASSEROLE OF MUTTON.

BUTTER a deep dish or mould, and line it with potatoes
mashed with milk or butter, and seasoned with pepper and
salt. Fill it with slices of the lean of cold mutton, or lamb,
seasoned also. Cover the whole with more mashed potatoes.
Put it into an oven, and bake it till the meat is thoroughly
warmed, and the potatoes brown. Then carefully turn it out
on a large dish ; or you may, if more convenient, send it to
table in the dish it was baked in.

MUTTON HARICO.

•
TAKE a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, and fry them

brown. Then put them into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet
herbs, two or- three cloves, a little mace, and pepper and salt
to your taste. Cover them with boiling water, and let them
stew slowly for about an hour. Then cut some carrots and
turnips into dice ; slice some onions, and cut up a head of
celery ; put them all into the stew-pan, and keep it closely
covered except when you are skimming off the fat. Let the
whole stew gently for an hour longer, and then send it to
table in a deep dish, with the gravy about it.

You may make a similar harico of veal steaks, or of beef
cut very thin.

STEWED LEG OF MUTTON.

TAKE a leg of mutton and trim it nicely. Put it into a pot
with three pints of water; or with two pints of waier and one
quart of gravy drawn from bones, trimmings, and coarse pieces

112 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

of meat. Add some slices of carrots, and a little salt.
it slowly three hours. Then put in small onions, small tur
nips, tomatas or tomata catchup, and shred or powdered swee
marjoram to your taste, and let it stew three hours longer. A
large leg will require from first to last from six hours and a
half to seven hours stewing. But though it must be tender
and well done all through, do not allow it to stew to rags.
Serve it up with the vegetables and gravy round it.
Have mashed potatoes in another dish.

TO ROAST LAMB.

THE best way of cooking lamb is to roast it ; whei drest
otherwise it is insipid, and not so good as mutton. A hind-
quarter of eight pounds will be done in about two houis; a
fore-quarter of ten pounds, in two hours and a half; a leg of
five pounds will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour
arid a half; a loin about an hour and a half. Lamb, like veal
and pork, is not eatable unless thoroughly done ; no one
preferring it rare, as is frequently the case with beef and
mutton.

Wash the meat, wipe it dry, spit it, and cover the fat with
paper. Place it before a clear brisk fire. Baste it at first
with a little salt and water, and then wra^Js own drippings.
Remove the paper when the meat is nearly dohe, and dredge
the lamb with a little flour. Afterwards baste it with butter.
Do not take it off the spit till you see it drop white gravy.

Prepare some mint-sauce by stripping from the stalks the
leaves of young green mint, mincing them very fine, and
mixing them with vinegar and sugar. There must be just
sufficient vinegar to moisten the mint, but not enough to make

M U T T O N A N D L A M B. 113

the sauce liquid. Send it to table in a boat, and the gravy in
another boat. Garnish with sliced lemon.

In carving a quarter of lamb, separate the shoulder from the
breast, or the leg from the ribs, sprinkle a little salt and
pepper, and squeeze on some lemon juice.

It should be accompanied by asparagus, green peas, and
lettuce.

MUTTON HAMS.

TAKE large fine legs of mutton freshly killed, and wipe
them dry with a clean towel. Allow to each ham half a
pound of salt, and an ounce of saltpetre, and half a pound of
brown sugar, all mixed together, slightly heated over the fire,
and then well rubbed into the meat. Put the hams into a
salting-tub, and keep them there two or three days, turning
and rubbing them frequently. Then make a mixture, (allow-
ing to each ham half a pound more of brown sugar, the same
of salt, and an ounce of saltpetre, pounded fine, with an ounce
of black pepper, and an ounce of cloves,) and heat this mix-
ture a few minutes. Take the hams out of the tub, wipe
them diy, and then rub into them this second mixture. Clean
the salting-tub, and return the hams to it. Cover them, and
let them lie for a fortnight, turning them several times, and
basting them with the liquid. Then smoke them a fortnight,
using for the fire green birch, oak, hickory, or corn-cobs0

Sow them up in new cloths and white-wash the outside of
the covers.

114

PORK, HA M, &c.

GENERAL REMARKS.

IN cutting up pork, you have the spare-rib, shoulder,
griskin or chine, the loin, middlings and leg; the head, feet,
heart and liver. On the spare-rib and chine there is but little
meat, and the pieces called middlings consist almost entirely
of fat. The best parts are the loin, and the leg or hind
qparter. Hogs make the best pork when from two and a halt
to four years old. They should be kept up and fed with corn
at least six weeks before they are killed, or their flesh will
acquire a disagreeable 'taste from the trash and offal which
they eat when running at large. The Portuguese pork, which
is fed on chestnuts, is perhaps the finest in the world.

If the meat is young, the lean will break on being pinched,
and the skin will dent by nipping it with the fingers ; the fat
will be white, soft, and pulpy. If the skin or rind is rough,
and cannot be nipped, it is old.

Hams that have short shank-bones, are generally preferred.
If you put a knife under the bone of a ham, and it comes out
clean, the meat is good ; but quite the contrary if- the knife
appears smeared and slimy. In good bacon the fat is white,
and the lean sticks close to the bone ; if it is streaked with
yellow, the meat is rusty, and unfit to eat.

Pork in every form should be thoroughly cooked. If the
least under-done, it is disgusting and unwholesome.

HAM, PORK, ETC. 115

TO ROAST A PIG.

BEGIN your preparations by making the stuffing. Take a
sufficient quantity of grated stale bread, and mix it with sage
and sweet marjoram rubbed fine or powdered; also some
grated lemon-peel. Season it with pepper, salt, powdered
nutmeg and mace ; mix in butter enough to moisten it, and
some beaten yolk of egg to bind it. Let the whole be very
well incorporated.

The pig should be newly killed, (that morning if possible,)
nicely cleaned, fat, and not too large. Wash it well in cold
water, and cut off the feet close to the joints, leaving some
skin all round to fold over the ends. Take out the liver and
heart, and reserve them, with the feet, to make the gravy.
Truss back the legs. Fill the body with the stuffing (it must
be quite full) and then sew it up, or tie it round with a but-
tered twine. Put the pig on the spit, and place it before a
clear brisk fire, but not too near lest it scorch. The fire
should be largest at the ends, that the middle of the pig may
not be done before the extremities. If you find the heat too
great in the centre, you may diminish it by placing a flat-iron
before the fire. When you first put it down, wash the pig
all over with salt and water; afterwards rub it frequently
with a feather dipped in sweet oil, or with fresh butter tied in
a rag. If you baste it with any thing else, or with its own
dripping, the skin will not be crisp. Take care not to blister
or burn the outside by keeping it too near the fire. A good
sized pig will require at least three hours' roasting.

Unless a pig is very small it is seldom sent to table whole.
Take the spit from the fire, and place it across a large dish :
then, having cut off the head with a sharp knife, and cut
down the back, slip the spit out. Lay the two halves of the

J16 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

body close together in the dish, and place half the head on
each side. Garnish with sliced lemon.

For the gravy, — take that from the dripping-pan and skim
it well. Having boiled the heart, liver, and feet, with some
minced sage in a very little water, cut the meat from the feet,
and chop it. Chop also the liver • and heart. Put all into a
small sauce-pan, adding a little of the water that they were
boiled in, and some bits of butter rolled in flour. Flavour it
with a glass of Madeira, and some grated nutmeg. Give it a
boil up, and send it to table in a gravy-boat.

You may serve up with the pig, apple-sauce, cranberry-
sauce, or bread-sauce in a small tureen ; or currant jelly.

If you bake the pig instead of roasting it, rub it from time
to time with fresh butter tied in a rag.

TO ROAST A LEG OF PORK.

TAKE a sharp knife and score the skin across in narrow
stripes (you may cross it again so as to form diamonds) and
ruB in some powdered sage. Raise the skin at the knuckle,
and put in a stuffing of minced onion and sage, bread-crumbs,
pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg. Fasten it down with a

•

buttered string, or with skewers. You may make deep inci-
sions in the meat of the large end of the leg, and stuff them
also ; pressing in the filling very hard. Rub a little sweet
oil all over the skin with a brush or a goose-feather, to make
it crisp and of a handsome brown. Do not place the spit too
near the fire, lest the skin should burn and blister. A leg of
pork will require from three to four hours to roast. Moisten
it all the time by brushing it with sweet oil, or with fresh
butter tied in a rag. To baste it with its own dripping will

PORK, HAM, ETC, 1J7

make the skin tough and hard. Skim the fat carefully from
the gravy, which should be thickened with a little flour.

A roast leg of pork should always be accompanied by
apple-sauce, and by mashed potato and mashed turnips.

TO ROAST A LOIN OF PORK.

. SCORE the skin in narrow strips, and rub it all over with a
mixture of powdered sage-leaves, pepper and salt. Have
ready a force-meat or stuffing of sage and marjoram,
mixed with a little grated bread and beaten yolk of egg, and
seasoned with pepper and salt. Make deep incisions between
the ribs and fill them with this stuffing. Put it on the spit
before a clear fire and moisten it with butter or sweet oil,
rubbed lightly over it. It will require three hours to roast.

Having skimmed the gravy well, thicken it with a little
flour, and serve it up in a boat. Have ready some apple-
sauce to eat with the pork. Also mashed turnips and mashed
potatoes.

You may roast in the same manner, a shoulder, spare-rib,
or chine of pork ; seasoning it with sage and marjoram.

TO ROAST A MIDDLING OR SPRING PIECE

OF PORK.

MAKE a force-meat of grated bread, and minced onion and
sage, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg; mix it well, and
spread it all over the inside of the pork. Then roll up the
meat, and with a sharp knife score it round in circles, rubbing
powdered sage into the cuts. Tie a buttered twine round the
roll of meat so as to keep it together in every direction. Put

118 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

a hook through one end, and roast the pork before a clear brisk
fire, moistening the skin occasionally with butter. Or you
may bake it in a Dutch oven. It is a good side dish. Thicken
the gravy with a little flour, and flavour it with a glass of
•wine. Have currant jelly to eat with it.
It should be delicate young pork.

TO STEW PORK.

TAKE a nice piece of the fillet or leg of fresh pork ; rub it
with a little salt, and score the skin. Put it into a pot with
sufficient water to cover it, and stew it gently for two hours or
more, in proportion to its size. Then put into the same pot a
dozen or more sweet potatoes, scraped, split, and cut in
pieces. Let the whole stew gently together for an hour and a
half, or till all is thoroughly done, skimming it frequently.
Serve up all together in a large dish.

This stew will be found very good. For sweet potatoes you
may substitute white ones mixed with sliced turnips, or par-
snips scraped and split.

TO BOIL, CORN ED PORK.

TAKE a nice piece of fresh pork, (the leg is the best,) nib it
with salt, and let it lie in the salt two days. Boil it slowly
in plenty of water, skimming it well. When the meat is
about half done, you may put into the same pot a fine cab-
bage, washed clean and quartered. The pork and the cabbage
should be thoroughly done, and tender throughout. Send
them to table in separate dishes, having drained and squeezed

PORK, HAM, ETC. 119

all the water out of the cabbage. Take off the skin of the
pork, and touch the outside at intervals with spots of cayenne
pepper. Eat mustard with it.

Pork is never boiled unless corned or salted.

PICKLED PORK AND PEASE PUDDING.

SOAK the pork all night in cold water, and wash and scrape
it clean. Put it on early in the day, as it will take a long
time to boil, and must boil slowly. Skim it frequently. Boil
in a separate pot greens or cabbage to eat with it ; also pars-
nips and potatoes.

Pease pudding is a frequent accompaniment to pickled pork,
and is very generally li£ed. To make a small pudding, you
must have ready a quart of dried split pease, which have
been soaked all night in cold water. Tie them in a cloth,
(leaving room for them to swell,) and boil them slowly till
they are tender. Drain them, and rub them through a cullen-
der or a sieve into a deep dish ; season them with pepper and
salt, and mix with them an ounce of butter, and two beaten
eggs. Beat all well together till thoroughly mixed. Dip a
clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle it with flour, and put the
pudding into it. Tie it up very tightly, leaving a small space
between the mixture and the tying, (as the pudding will still
swell a little,) and boil it an hour longer. Send it to table
and eat it with the pork.

You may make a pease pudding in a plain and less delicate
way, by simply seasoning the pease with black pepper,
(having first soaked them well,) tying them in a cloth, and
putting them to boil in the same pot with the pork, taking
care to make the string very tight, so that the water may noi

120 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

get in. When all is done, and you turn out the pudding, cut
it into thick slices and lay it round the pork.

Pickled pork is frequently accompanied by dried beans and
hominy.

PORK AND BEANS.

ALLOW two pounds of pickled pork to two quarts of dried
beans. Soak the meat all night in a pan of cold water. Put
the beans into a pot with cold water, and let them hang all
night over the embers of the fire, or set them in the chimney
corner, that they may warm as well as soak. Early in the
morning rinse them through a cullender. Having scored the
rind of the pork, (which should not be a very fat piece,) put
it into a pot with cold water, and boil it till tender, carefully
skimming off the liquid fat. In another pot boil the beans
till they have all bursted. When soft, take them up ; lay the
pork in a tin pan ; and cover it with the beans, adding a very
little water. Then bake them in an oven till brown, but not
longer.

This is a homely dish, but is by many persons much liked.
It is customary to bring it to table in the pan in which it is
baked. The chine is the proper piece for this purpose.

PORK STEAKS.

PORK steaks or chops should be taken from the neck, or the
loin. Cut them about half an inch thick, remove the skin,
trim them neatly, and beat them. Season them with pepper,
salt, and powdered sage-leaves or sweet marjoram, and broil
them over a clear fire till quite done all through, turning them
once. They require much longer broiling than beef-steaks oi

PORK, HAM, ETC. 121

mutton chops. When you think they are nearly done, take up
one on a plate and try it. If it is the least red inside, return
it to the gridiron. Have ready a gravy made of the trimmings,
or any coarse pieces of pork stewed in a little \\ ater with
chopped onions and sage, and skimmed carefully. When all
the essence is extracted, take out the bits of meat, &c., and
serve up the gravy in a boat to eat with the steaks.
They should be accompanied with apple-sauce.

PORK CUTLETS.

CUT them from the leg, and remove the skin ; trim them
and beat them, and sprinkle on salt and pepper. Prepare
some beaten egg in a pan ; and on a flat dish a mixture of
bread-crumbs, minced onion, and sage. Put some lard or
drippings into a frying-pan over the fire; and when it boils,
put in the cutlets ; having dipped every one first in the
egg, and then in the seasoning. Fry them twenty or thirty
minutes, turning them often. After you have taken them
out of the frying-pan, skim the gravy, dredge in a little
flour, give it one boil, and then pour it on the dish round the
cutlets.

Have apple-sauce to eat with them.

Pork cutlets prepared in this manner may be stewed instead
of being fried. Add to them a little water, and stew them
slowly till thoroughly done, keeping them closely covered,
except when you remove the lid to skim them.

11

.

122 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

PORK PIE.

TAKE the lean of a leg or loin of fresh pork, and season it
with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Cover the bottom and sides
of a deep dish with a good paste, made with a pound of butter
to two pounds of flour, and rolled out thick. Put in a layer
of pork, and then a layer of pippin apples, pared, cored; and
cut small. Strew over the apples sufficient sugar to make
them very sweet. Then place another layer of pork, and
so on till the dish is full. Pour in half a pint or more
of sweet cider. Cover the pie with a thick lid of paste, and
notch and ornament it according to your taste.

Set it in a brisk oven, and bake it well.

HAM PIE.

COVER the sides and bottom of a dish with a good paste
rolled out thick. Have ready some slices of cold boiled ham,
about half an inch thick, some eggs boiled hard and sliced,
and a large young fowl cleaned and cut up. Put a layer of
ham at the bottom, then the fowl, then the eggs, and then
another layer of ham. Shake on some pepper, and pour in
some water, or what will be much better, some veal gravy.
Cover the pie with a crust, notch and ornament it, and bake it
well.

Some mushrooms will greatly improve it.

Small button mushrooms will keep very well in a bottle of
sweet oil — first peeling the skin, and cutting off the stalks.

PORK, HAM, ETC. 123

s

HAM SANDWICHES.

CUT some thin slices of bread very neatly, having slightly
buttered them; and, if you choose, spread on a very little
<nustard. Have ready some very thin slices of cold boiled
ham, and lay one between two slices of bread. You may
either roll them up, or lay them flat on the plates. They are
used at supper, or at luncheon.

You may substitute for the ham, cold smoked tongue, shred
or grated.

BROILED. HAM.

CUT the ham into very thin slices, (the thinner the better.)
Soak them in hot water at least half an hour, (a whole hour
is better,) to draw out some of the salt; changing the water
several times, and always pouring it on scalding hot. This
process will not only extract the superfluous salt (which would
otherwise ooze out in broiling and remain sticking about the
surface of the meat) but it makes the ham more tender and
mellow. After soaking, dry the slices in a cloth, and then
heat your gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire.

If you have cold boiled ham, it is better for broiling than
that which is raw ; and being boiled, will require no soaking
before you put it on the gridiron.

If you wish to serve up eggs with the ham, put some lard
into a very clean frying-pan, and make it boiling hot. Break
the eggs separately into a saucer, that in case a bad one should
be among them it may not mix with the rest. Slip each ego:
gently into the frying-pan. Do not turn them while they are
frying, but keep pouring some of the hot lard over them with
an iron spoon ; this will do them sufficiently on the upper

124 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

Fide, They will be done enough in about three minutes;, the
white must retain its transparency so that the yolk will be
seen through it. When done, take them up with a tin slice,
drain off the lard, and if any part of the white is discoloured
or ragged, trim it off. Lay a fried egg upon each slice of the
broiled ham, and send them to table hot.

This is a much nicer way than the common practice of fry-
ing the ham or bacon with the eggs. Some persons broil or
fry the ham without eggs, and send it to table cut into little
slips or mouthfuls.

To curl small pieces of ham for garnishing, slice as thin as
possible some that has been boiled or parboiled. The pieces
should be about two inches square. Roll it up round little
wooden skewers, and put it into a cheese toaster, or into a
tin oven, and set it before the fire for eight or ten minutes,
When it is done, slip out the skewers.

TO BOIL A HAM.

HAMS should always be soaked in water previous to boil-
ing, to draw out a portion of the salt, and to make them
tender. They will soften more easily if soaked in lukewarm
water. If it is a new ham, and not very salt or hard, you
need not put it in water till the evening before you intend to
rook it. An older one will require twenty-four hours' soak-
ing ; .and one that is very old and hard should be kept in soak
two or three days, frequently changing the water, which must
be soft. Soak it in a titf*, and keep it well covered. When
you take it out of the water to prepare it for boiling, scrape
and trim it nicely, and pare off all the rough-looking parts.

EarJy in the morning put it into a large pot or kettle with

FORK, HAM, ETC. 125

plenty of cold water. Place it over a 'slow fire that it ma/
heat gradually ; it should not come to a boil in less than an
hour and a half, or two hours'. When it boils, quicken the fire,
and skim the pot carefully. Then simmer it gently four or
five hours or more, according to its size. A ham weifhin<r

o o a

fifteen pounds should simmer five hours after it has come to a
boil. Keep the pot well skimmed.

When it is done, take it up, carefully strip off 'the skin,
and reserve it to cover the ham when it is put away cold.
Rub the ham all over with some beaten egg, and strew on it
fine bread-raspings shaken through the lid of a dredging box.
Then place it in an oven to brown and crisp, or on a hot dish
set over the pot before the fire. Cut some writing paper into
a handsome fringe, and twist it round the shank-bone before
you send the ham to table. Garnish the edge of the dish
with little piles or spots of rasped crust of bread.

In carving a ham, begin not quite in the centre, but a little

Bfc

nearer to the hock. Cut the slices very thin. It is not only
a most ungenteel practice to cut ham in thick slices, but it
much impairs the flavour.

When you put it away after dinner, skewer on again the
skin. This will make it keep the better.

Ham should always be accompanied by green vegetables,
such as asparagus, peas, beans, spinach, cauliflower, bro-
coli, &c.

Bacon also should be well soaked before it is cooked ; and
it should be boiled very slowly, and for a long time. The
greens may be boiled, with the meat. Take care to skim the
pot carefully, and to drain and squeeze the greens very well
before you send them to table. If there are yellow streaks in
the lean of the bacon, it is rusty, and unfit to eat.

11*

126 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

t

TO ROAST A HAM.

TAKE a very fine ham (a Westphalia one if you^an procure
it) and soak it in lukewarm water for a day or two, changing
me water frequently. The day before you intend cooking it,
take the ham out of the water, and (having removed the skin)
trim it nicely, and pour over it a bottle of Madeira or sherry.
Let it steep till next morning ; frequently during the day
washing the wine over it. Put it on the spit in time to allow
at least six hours for sjowly roasting it. Baste it continually
with hot water. When it is done, dredge it all over with
fine bread-raspings shaken on through the top of the dredging
box ; and set it before the fire to brown.

For gravy, take the wine in which the ham was steeped,
and add to it the essence or juice which flowed from the meat
when taken from the spit. Squeeze in the juice of twc
lemons. Put it into a sauce-pan, and boil and skim it. Send
it to table in a boat. Cover the shank of the ham (which
should have been sawed short) with bunches of double pars-
ley, and ornament it with a cluster of flowers cut out with a
penknife from raw carrots, beets, and turnips ; and made to
imitate marygolds, and red and white roses.

DIRECTIONS FOR CURING HAM OR BACON.

HAM or bacon, however well cured, will never be good
unless the pork of which it is made has been properly fed.
The hogs should be well fattened on corn, and fed with it
about eight weeks, allowing ten bushels to each hog. They
ere best for curing when from two to four years old, and
should not weigh more than one hundred and fifty or one hun«

PORK, HAM, ETC. 127

dred and sixty pounds. The first four weeks they may be
fed on mush, or on Indian meal moistened with water; the
remaining four on corn unground ; giving them always as
much as they will eat. Soap-suds may be given to them
three or four times a week ; or oftener if convenient.

When killed and cut up, begin immediately to salt them.
Rub the outside of each ham with a tea-spoonful of powdered
saltpetre, and the inside with a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper.
Having mixed together two pounds brown sugar and fine salt, in
the proportion of a pound and a half of brown sugar to a pint
of salt, rub the pork well with it. This quantity of sugar
and salt will be sufficient for fifty pounds of meat. Have
ready some large tubs, the bottoms sprinkled with salt, and
lay the meat in the tubs with the skin downward. Put

plenty of salt between each layer of meat. After it has lain

»

eight days, take it out and wipe off all the salt, and wash the
tubs. Make a pickle of soft water, equal quantities of salt
and molasses, and a little saltpetre ; allowing four ounces of
saltpetre to two. quarts of molasses and two quarts of salt,
which is the proportion for fifty pounds of meat. The pickle
must be strong enough to bear up an egg. Boil and skim it;
and when it is cold, pour it over the meat, which must be
turned every day and basted with the pickle. The hams
should remain in the pickle at least four weeks ; the shoulders
and middlings of the bacon three weeks ; and the jowls two
weeks. They should then be taken out and smoked. Having
washed off the pickle, before you smoke the meat, bury it,
while wet, in a tub of bran. This will form a crust over it,
and prevent evaporation of the juices. Let the smoke-house
be ready to receive the meat immediately. Take it out of the
tub after it has lain half an hour, and rub the bran evenly o-yer

128 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

it. Then hang it up to smoke with the small end downwards.
The smoke-house should be dark and cool, and should stand
alone, for the heat occasioned by an adjoining building may
spoil the meat, or produce insects. Keep up a good smoke
all day, but have no blaze. Hickory is the best wood foi a
smoke-house fire. In three or four weeks the meat will be
sufficiently smoked, and fit for use. During the process it
should be occasionally taken down, examined, and hung up
again. The best way of keeping hams is to sew them in
coarse cloths, which should be white-washed. If they are
to go to sea, pack them in pounded charcoal.

An old ham will require longer to soak, and longer to boil
than a new one.

Tongues may be cured in the above manner.

LIVER PUDDINGS.

BOIL some pigs' livers. When cold, mince them, and sea-
son thenrwith pepper, salt, and some sage and sweet mar-
joram rubbed fine. You may add some powdered cloves.
Have ready some large skins nicely cleaned, and fill them
with the mixture, tying up the ends securely. Prick them
with a fork to prevent their bursting ; put them into hot water,
and boil them slowly for about an hour. They will require
no 'farther cooking before you eat them. Keep them in stone
jars closely covered. They are eaten cold at breakfast 01
supper, cut into slices an inch thick or more ; or they may be
cut into large pieces, and broiled or fried.

The best liver puddings are made of boiled pigs-feet and
livers, mixed together in equal portions.

FOUR, HAM, ETC. 129

COMMON SAUSAGE-MEAT.

*

HAVING cleared it from the skin, sinews, and gristle, take
six pounds of the lean of young fresh pork, and three pounds
of the fat, and mince it all as fine as possible. Take some
dried sage, pick off the leaves and rub them to powder, allow-
ing three tea-spoonfuls to each pound of meat. Having
mixed the fat and lean well together, and seasoned it with
six tea-spoonfuls of pepper, and the same quantity of salt,

•

strew on the powdered sage, and mix the whole very well with
your hands. Put it away in a stone jar, packing it down
hard ; and keep it closely covered. Set the jar in a cool dry
place.

When you wish to use the sausage-meat, make it into flat
cakes about an inch thick and the size of a dollar ; dredge

•

them with flour, and fry them in nothing, over rather a slow
fire, till they are well browned on both sides, and thoroughly
done. Their own fat will cook them.
Sausages are seldom eaten except at breakfast.

FINE SAUSAGES.

TAKE some fresh pork, (the leg is best,) and clear it from
the skin, sinews, and gristle. Allow two pounds of fat to
three pounds of lean. Mince it all very fine, and season it
with two ounces and a half of salt, half an ounce of pepper,
twelve cloves, and a dozen blades of mace powdered, three
grated nutmegs, six table-spoonfuls of powdered sage, and
two tea-spoonfuls of powdered rosemary. Mix all well
together. Put it into a stone jar, and press it down very
hard. Cover it closely, and keep it in a dry cool place.

130 DIRECTIONS FOR COORfNG MEAT.

When you use this sausage-meat, mix with it some beaten
yolk of egg, and make it into balls or cakes. Dredge them
with flour, and fry them in butter.

BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.

TAKE ten pounds of beef, and four pounds of pork ; two-
thirds of the meat should be lean, and only one third fat.

I

Chop it very fine, and mix it well together. Then season it
with six ounces of fine salt, one ounce of black pepper,
half an ounce of cayenne, one table-spoonful of powdered
cloves ; and one clove or garlic minced very fine.

Have ready some large skins nicely cleaned and prepared,
(they should ^be beef-skins,) and wash them in salt and vine-
gar. Fill them with the above mixture, and secure the ends
by tying them with packthread or fine twine. Make a brine
of salt and water strong enough to bear up an egg. Put the
sausages into it, and let them lie for three weeks, turning
them daily. Then take them out, wipe them dry, 'hang them
up and smoke them. Before you put them away rub them
all over with sweet oil.

Keep them in ashes. That of vine-twigs-is best for them.

You may fry them or not before you eat them.

PORK CHEESE.

TARE the heads, tongues, and feet of young fresh pork, or any
other pieces that are convenient. Having removed the skin,
boil them till all the meat is quite tender, and can be easily
stripped from the bones. Then chop it small, and season it

PORK, HAM, ETC. 131

with salt and black pepper to your taste, and if you choose,
some beaten clovts. Add sage-leaves and sweet marjoram,
minced fine, or rubbed to powder. Mix the whole very well
together, with your hands. Put it into deep pans, with straight
sides, (the shape of a cheese,) press it down hard and closely
with a plate that will fit the pan ; putting the under side of
the plate next to the meat, and placing a heavy weight on it.
In two or three days it will be fit for use, and you may turn
it out of the pan. Send it to table cut in slices, and use mus-
tard and vinegar with it. It is generally eaten at supper or
breakfast.

PIG'S FEET AND EARS SOUSED.

HAVING cleaned them properly,, and removed the skin, boil
them slowly till they are quite tender, and then split the feet and
put them with the ears into salt and vinegar, flavoured with a
little mace. Cover the jar closely, and set it away. When you
use them, dry each piece well with a cloth ; dip them first
in beaten yolk of egg, and then in bread-crumbs, and fry them
nicely in butter or lard. Or you may eat them cold, just out
of the vinegar.

If .you intend keeping them some time, you must make a
fresh pickle for them every other day

TO IMITATE WESTPHALIA HAM.

THE very finest pork must be used for these hams. Mix
together an equal quantity of powdered saltpetre and browu
sugar, and rub it well into the hams. Nextr day make a
pickle in sufficient quantity to cover them very well, The

132 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

proportions of the ingredients are a pound of fine salt, mixed
with a pound of brown sugar, au ounce of black pepper
and an ounce of cloves pounded to powder, a small bit of sal
prunella, and a quart of stale strong beer or porter. Boil them
all together, so as to make a pickle that will bear up an egg.
Pour it boiling hot over the meat, and let it lie in the pickle
two weeks, turning it two cr three times every day, and
basting or washing it with the liquid. Then take out the
hams, rub them with bran and smoke them for a fortnight.
When done, keep them in a barrel of fine charcoal.

In cooking these harns simmer them slowly for seven or
eight hours.

To imitate the shape of the real Westphalia hams, cut some
of the meat off the under side of the thick part, so as to give
them a fiat appearance. Do this before you begin to cure
them, first loosening the skin and afterwards sewing it on
again.

The ashes in which you keep them must be changed fre-
quently, wiping the hams when you take theni out.

TO GLAZE A COLD HAM.

WITH a brush or quill feather *go all over the ham with
beaten yolk of egg. Then cover it thickly with pounded
cracker, made as fine as flour, or with grated crumbs of stalo
bread. Lastly go over it with thick cream. Put it to brown
in the oven of a stove, or brown it on the spit of a tin roaster,
set before the fire and turned frequently.

This glazing will be found delicious. It should be put on
half an inch thick, so as to form a crust.

133

VENISON, &c.

TO ROAST A SADDLE OR HAUNCH OP

VENISON.

WIPE it all over with a sponge dipped in warm water.
Then rub the skin with lard or nice dripping. Cover the fat
with sheets of paper two double, buttered, and tied on with
packthread that has been soaked to keep it from burning.
Or, what is still better, you may cover the first sheets of
paper with a coarse paste of flour and water rolled out half an
inch thick, and then cover the paste with the second sheets
of paper, securing the whole well with the string to prevent its
falling off. Place the venison on the spit before a strong clear
fire, such as you would have for a sirloin of beef, and let the
fire be well kept up all the time. Put some claret and butter
into the dripping-pan and baste the meat with it frequently. If
wrapped in paste, it will not be done in less than five hours.
Half an hour before you take it up, remove the coverings care-
fully, place the meat nearer to the fire, baste it with fresh
butter and dredge it very lightly with flour. Send it to table
with fringed white paper wrapped round the bone, and its own
gravy well skimmed. Have currant jelly to eat with it. As
venison chills immediately, the plates should be kept on
heaters.

You may make another gravy with a pound and a half of
scraps and trimmings or inferior pieces of venison, put into a

sauce-pan with three pints of water, a few cloves, a few blades

12

134 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

of mace, half a nutmeg ; and salt and cayenne to your taste.
Boil it down slowly to a pint. Then skim off the fat, and
strain the gravy into a clean sauce-pan. Add to it half a pint
of currant jelly, half a pint of claret, and near a quarter of a
pound of butter divided into bits and rolled in flour. Send it
to table in two small tureens or sauce-boats. This gravy will
be found very fine.
Venison should never be roasted unless very fat. The

•

shoulder is a roasting piece, and may be done without the
paper or paste.

Venison is best when quite fresh ; but if it is expedient to
keep it a week before you cook it, wash it well with milk and
water, and then dry it perfectly with cloths till there is not
the least damp remaining on it. Then mix together powdered
ginger and pepper, and rub it well over every part of the meat.
Do not, however, attempt to keep it unless the weather is
quite cold.

TO HASH COLD* VENISON. '

CUT the meat in nice small slices, and put the trimmings
and bones into a sauce-pan with' barely water enough to cover
them. Let them stew for an hour. Then strain the liquid
into a stew-pan ; add to it some bits of butter rolled in flour,
and whatever gravy was left of the venison the day before.
Stir in some currant jelly, and give it a boil up. Then put in
the meat, and keep it over the fire just long enough* to warm
it through ; but do not allow it to boil, as it has been, once
cooked already.

'

VENISON, ETC. 135

VENISON STEAKS.

CUT them 'from the neck or haunch. Season them with
pepper and salt. When the gridiron has been well heated
over a bed of bright coals, grease the bars, and lay the steaks
upon it. Broil them well, turning them once, and taking
care to save as much of the gravy as possible. Serve them
up with some currant jelly laid on each steak. Have your
plates set on heaters.

VENISON PASTY.

THE neckj breast, and shoulder are the parts used for a
venison pie or pasty. Cut the meat into pieces (fat and lean
together) and put the bones and trimmings into a stew-pan
with pepper and salt, and water or veal broth enough to cover
it. Simmer it till you have drawn out a good gravy. Then
strain it.

In the mean time make a good rich paste, and roll it rather
thick. Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with one
sheet of it, and put in your meat, having seasoned it with
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Pour in the gravy which
you have prepared from the trimmings, and two glasses of
port or claret, and lay on the top some bits of butter rolled in
flour. Cover the pie with a thick lid of paste, and ornament
it handsomely with leaves and flowers formed with a tin cutter.
Bake it two hours or more, according to its size.

136 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

VENISON HAMS.

VENISON for hams must be newly killed, and in every re-
spect as good as possible. Mix together equal quantities of
salt and brown sugar, and rub it well into the hams. Put
them into a tub, and let them lie seven days ; turning them
and rubbing them daily with the mixture of salt and sugar.
Next mix together equal quantities of West India molasses
and fine salt. Rub it over your hams, and let them lie in it a
week longer. Then wipe them, rub them with bran, and
smoke them a fortnight over hickory wood. Pack them in
wood ashes ; or in charcoal, if to go to'sea.

Venison ham must not be cooked before it is eaten. It is
used for the tea-table, chipped or shred like clried beef, to
which it is considered very superior.

It will not keep as long as other smoked meat.

TO ROAST A KID.

A KID should be cooked the day it is killed, or the day after
at farthest. They are best from three to four months old, and
are only eaten while they live on milk.

Wash the kid well, wipe it dry, and truss it. Stuff the
body with a force-meat of grated bread, butter or suet, sweet
herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and- beaten
egg ; and sew it up to keep the stuffing in its place. Pat it on
the spit and rub it over with lard, or sweet oil. Put a little
salt and water into the dripping-pan, and baste the kid first
with that, and afterwards with its own gravy. Or you may
make it very nice by basting it with cream. It should roast
about three' hours. At the last, transfer the gravy to a small

VENISON, ETC. 137

sauce-pan ; thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, crive
it a boil up, and send it to table in a boat. Garnish the kid
with lumps of currant jelly laid round the edge of the dish.

A fawn (which should never be kept more than one day)
may be roasted in the same manner ; also, a hare, or a couple
of rabbits.

You may send to table, to eat with the kid, a dish of
chestnuts boiled or roasted, and divested of the shells.

TO ROAST A HARE.

IF a hare is old do not roast it, but make soup of it. Wash
and soak it in water for an hour, and change the water several
times, having made a little slit in the neck to let out the
blood. Take out the heart and liver, and scald them. Drain,
dry, and truss the hare. Make a force-meat richer and more
moist than usual, and add to it the heart and liver iiiinced fine.
Soak the bread-crumbs in a little claret before you mix them
with the other ingredients. Stuff the body of the hare with
this force-meat, and sew it up. Put it on the spit, rub it with
butter, and roast it before a brisk fire. For the first half hour
baste it with butter ; and afterwards with cream, or with milk
thickened with beaten yolk" of egg. At the last, dredge it
lightly with flour. The hare will require about two hours
roasting.

D

For sauce, take the drippings of the hare mixed, with cream
or with claret, and a little lemon-juice, a bit of butter, and
some bread-crumbs. Give it aboil up, and send it to table in a
boat. Garnish the hare with slices of currant jelly laid round

it in the dish.

12*

138 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.

FRICASSEED RABBITS.

THE best way of cooking rabbits is to fricassee them. Take
a couple of fine ones, and cut them up, or disjoint them. Put
them into a stew-pan ; season them with cayenne pepper and
salt, some chopped parsley, and some powdered mace. Pour
in a pint of warm water (or of veal broth, if you have it) and
stew it over a slow fire till the rabbits are quite tender; adding
(when they are about half done) some bits of butter rolled in
flour. Just before you take it from the fire, enrich the gravy
with a jill or more of thick cream with some nutmeg grated
into it. Stir the gravy well, but take care not to let it boil
after the cream is in, lest it curdle.

Put the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, and pour the gravy
over them.

TO STEW RABBITS.

HAVING trussed the rabbits, lay them in a pan of warm
water for about fifteen minutes. Then put them into a pot
with plenty of water and a little salt, and stew them slowly
for about an hour, or till they are quite tender. In the mean
lime, peel and boil in a sauce-pan a dozen onions. When
they are quite tender all through, take them out, an'd drain
and slice them. Have ready some drawn butter, prepared
by taking six ounces of butter, (cut into bits and rolled in
nbout thjee tea-spoonfuls of flour,) and melting it in a jill of
milk. After shaking it round over hot coals till it simmers,
add to it the onions, and give it one boil up.

When the rabbits are done stewing lay them on a large

VENISON, ETC. 139

dish (having first cut off their heads, which should not be
sent to table) and cover them all over with the onion-sauce,
to which you may add some grated nutmeg.

*
TO FRY RABBITS.

V

HAVING washed the rabbits well, put them into a pan of
cold water, and let them lie in it two or three hours. Then
cut them into joints, dry them in a cloth, dredge them with
flour, strew them with chopped parsley, and fry them in but-
ter. After you take them out of the frying-pan, stir a wine-
glass of cream into the gravy, or the beaten yolk of an egg.
Do not let it boil, but pour it at once into the dish with the
rabbits.

Rabbits are very good baked in a pie. A boiled or pot-pie
may be made of them.

They may be stulfed with force-meat and roasted, basting
them with butter. Cut off their heads before you send them
to table.

VENISON SAUSAGES.

To six pounds of fresh-killed venison, allow two pounds
of fresh fat pork. Chop the meat and mince it very fine.
Add six tea-spoonfuls of sage leaves, dried and powdered, the
same quantity of salt, and the same of ground black pepper.
Having mixed the whole thoroughly, pack it down hard in
stone jars, and keep it well covered in a cool dry place.

When wanted for use, make it into small flat cakes, and
fry them.

140

POULTRY, GAME, &c.

GENERAL REMARKS.

IN buying- poultry- choose those that are fresh and fat.
Half-grown poultry is comparatively insipid ; it is best when
full-grown but not old. Old poultry is tough and hard. An
old goose is so tough as to be frequently uneatable. When
poultry is young the skin is thin and tender, and can be easily
ripped by trying it with a pin ; the legs are smooth ; the feet
moist and limber; and. the eyes full and bright. The body
should be thick and the breast fat. The bill and feet of a
young goose are yellow, and have but few hairs on them ;
when old they are red and hairy.

'Poultry is best when killed over night, as if cooked too soon
after killing, it is hard and does not taste well. It is not the
custom in America, as in some parts of "Europe, to keep game,

•

or indeed any sort of ea'table, till it begins to taint ; all food
when inclining to decomposition being regarded by us with
disgust.

When poultry or game is frozen, it should be brought into
the kitchen early in the morning of the day on which it is to
6e cooked. It may be thawed by laying it several hours in
cold water. If it is not thawed it will require double the
time to cook, and will be tough and tasteless when done.

In drawing poultry be very careful not to break the gall,
lest its disagreeable bitterness should be communicated to
the liver.

Poultry should be always scalded in hot water to make the

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. HI

feathers come out easily. Before they are cooked they should
be held for a moment over thehlaze of the fire to singe oil the
hairs that are about the skin. The head, neck, and feet
should be cut off, and the ends of the legs skewered in the
bodies. A string should be tied tightly round.

TO BOIL A PAIR OF FOWLS.

MAKE a force-meat in the usual manner, of grated bread-
crumbs, chopped sweet herbs, butter, pepper, salt, and yolk
of egg. Fill the bodies of the fowls with the stuffing, and
tie a string firmly round them. Skewer the livers and giz-
zards to the sides, under the wings. Dredge them with flour,
and put them into a pot with just enough of water to cook
them ; cover it closely, and put it over a moderate fire. As
soon as the scum rises, take off the pot and skim it. Then

•

cover it again, and boil it slowly half an hour. Afterwards
diminish the fire, and let them stew slowly till quite tender.
An hour altogether is generally'sufficient to boil a pair of
fowls, unless they are quite old. By doing them slowly
(rather stewing than boiling) the skin will not break, and
they will be whiter and more tender than if boiled fast.

Serve them up with egg-sauce in a boat.

Young chickens are better for being soaked two hours in
skim milk, previous to boiling. You need not stuff them.
Boil or stew them slowly in the same manner as large fowls.
Three quarters of an hour will cook them.

Serve them up with egg -sauce, and garnish with
parsley.

Boiled fowls should be accompanied by ham or smoked
tongue.

142 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TO ROAST A PAIR OF FOWLS.

LEAVE out the livers, gizzards and hearts, to be chopped
and put into the gravy. Fill the crops and bodies of the fowls
with a force-meat, put them before a clear fire and roast them
an hour, basting them with butter or with clarified dripping.

Having stewed the necks, gizzards, livers,, and hearts in a
very little water, strain it and mix it hot with the gravy that
has dripped from the fowls, and which must be first skimmed.
Thicken it with a little browned flour, add to it the livers,
hearts, and gizzards chopped small. Send the fowls to table
with the gravy in a boat, and have cranberry-sauce to eat
with them.

BROILED CHICKENS.

SPLIT a pair of chickens .down the back, and beat them flat.
Wipe the inside, season them with pepper and salt, and let
them lie while you prepare some beaten yolk of egg and
grated bread-crumbs. Wash the outside of the chickens all
over with the egg, and then strew on the bread-crumbs. Have
ready a hot gridiron over a bed of bright coals. Lay the
chickens on it with the inside downwards, or next the fire.
Broil them about three quarters of an hour, keeping them
covered with a plate. Just before you take them up, lay some
small pieces of butter on them.

In preparing chickens for broiling, you may parboil them
about ten minutes, to ensure their being sufficiently cooked ;
as it is difficult to broil the thick parts thoroughly without
burning the rest. None but fine plump chickens are worth

/

broiling.

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 1/13

FRICASSEED CHICKENS.
HAVING cut up your chickens, lay them in cold water till

•

all the blood is drawn out. Then wipe the pieces, season
them with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry
them in lard or butter ; they should be of a fine brown on
both sides. When they are quite done, take them out of the
frying-pan, cover them up, and set them by the fire to keep
warm. Skim the gravy in the frying-pan and pour into it
half a pint of cream; season it with nutmeg, mace, and
. cayenne, and thicken it with a small bit of butter rolled in flour.
Give it a boil, and then pour it round the chickens, which
must be kept hot. Put some lard into the pan, and fry some
parsley in it to lay on the pieces of chicken ; it must be done
green and crisp.

To make a white fricassee of chickens, skin them, cut them
in pieces, and having soaked out the blood, season them with
salt, pepper, nutmeg and mace, and strew over them some
sweet marjoram shred fine. Pat them into a stew-pan, and
pour over them half a pint of cream, or rich unskimmed milk.
Add some butter rolled in flour, and (if you choose) some
small force-meat balls. Set the stew-pan over hot coals.
Keep it closely covered, and stew or simmer it gently till the
chicken is quite tender, but do not allow it to boil.

You may improve it by a few small slices of cold ham.

CHICKEN CROQUETS AND RISSOLES.

TAKE some cold chicken, and having cut the flesh from the
bones, mince it small with a little suet and parsley ; adding
sweet marjoram and grated lemon-peel. Season it with pep-

.

144 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

per, salt and nutmeg, and having mixed the whole very well,
pound it to a paste in a marble mortar, putting in a little at a
time, and moistening it frequently with yolk of egg that has
been previously beaten. Then divide it into equal portions,
and having floured your hands, make it up in the shape of
pears, sticking the head of a clove into the bottom of each
to represent the blossom end, and the stalk of a clove into the
top to look like the stem. Dip them into beaten yolk of egg,
and then into bread-crumbs grated finely and sifted. Fry them
in butter, "and when you take them out of the pan, fry some
parsley in it. Having drained the parsley, cover the bottom
of a dish wilh it, and lay the croquets upon it. Send it to
table as a side dish.

Croquets may be made of cold sweet-breads, or of cold veal

•

mixed with ham or tongue.

Rissoles are made of the same ingredients, well mixed, and
beaten smooth. in a mortar. Make a fine paste, roll it out,
and cut it into round cakes. Then lay some of the mixture
on one half of the cake, and fold over the other upon it, in the
shape of a half-moon. Close and crimp the edges nicely, and
fry the rissoles in butter. They should be of a light brown
on both sides. Drain them and send them to table dry.

BAKED CHICKEN PIE.

COVER the bottom and sides of a deep dish with a thick
paste. Having cut up your chickens, and seasoned them
to your taste with salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg, put
them in, and lay on the top several pieces of butter rolled
in flour. Fill up the dish about two-thirds with cold water.
Then lay on the top crust, notching it handsomely. Cut a

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 146

elit in the top, and stick into it an ornament of paste made
in the form of a tulip. Bake it in a moderate oven.

It will be much improved by the addition of a quarter of a
hundred oysters ; or by interspersing the pieces of chicken
with slices of cold boiled ham, in which case use no other salt.

You may add also some yolks of eggs boiled hard.

A duck pie may be made in the same manner. A rabbit
pie also.

A POT PIE.

TAKE a pair of large fine fowls. Cut them up, wash the
pieces, and season them with pepper only. Make a good
paste in the proportion of a pound and a half of minced suet
to three pounds of flour. Let there be plenty of paste, as it
is always much liked by the eaters of pot pie. Roll out the
paste not very thin, and cut most of it into long squares.
Butter the sides of a pot, and line them with paste nearly to
the top. Lay slices of cold ham at the bottom of the pot, and
then the pieces of fowl, interspersed all through with squares
of paste, and potatoes pared and quartered. Pour in a quart
of water. Cover the whole with a lid of paste, having a slit
in the centre, through which the gravy will bubble up. Boil
it steadily for two hours. Half an hour before you take it up,
put in through the hole in the centre of the crust, some bits
of butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy. When done,
put the pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy over it.

You may intersperse it all through with cold ham.

A pot-pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or
venison. Also of bee/-steaks. A beef-steak, or some pork-
steaks (the lean only) greatly improve a chicken pot-pie. If

you use no ham, season with salt.

13

140 DIRECTIONS FOR C.OOKlNd.

CHICKEN CURRY.

TAKE a pair of fine fowls, and having cut them in pieces,
lay them in salt and water till the seasoning is ready. Take
two table-spoonfuls of powdered ginger, one table-spoonful
of fresh turmeric, a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper;
some mace, a few cloves, some cardamom seeds, and a little
cayenne pepper with a small portion of salt. These last
articles according to your taste. Put ail into a mortar, and
add to them eight large onions, chopped or cut small.
Mix and beat all together, till the onions, spices, &c. form a
paste.

Put the chickens into a pan with sufficient butter rolled in
flour, and fry them till they are brown, but not till quite done.
While this is proceeding, set over the fire a sauce-pan three
parts full of water, or sufficient to cover the chickens when
they are ready. As. soon as the water boils, throw in the
curry-paste. When the paste has all dissolved, and is tho-
roughly mixed with the water, put in the pieces of chicken to
boil, or rather to simmer. When the chicken is quite done,
put it into a large dish, and eat it with boiled rice. The rice
may either be laid round on the same dish, or served up
separately.

This is a genuine East India receipt for curry.

Lamb, veal, or rabbits may be curried in the same manner

To boil Rice for the Curry.

PICK the rice carefully, to clear it from husks and motes.
Then soak it in cold water for a quarter of an hour, or more.
When you are ready to boil it, pour off the water in which it
has soaked. Have ready a pot or sauce-pan of boiling

.

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 147

water, into which you have put a little salt. Allow two
quarts of water to a pound of rice. Sprinkle the rice gra-
dually into the water. Boil it hard for twenty minutes, then
lake it off the fire, and pour off all the water that remains. Set
the pot in the chimney corner with the lid off, while dinner is
dishing1, that it may have time to dry.. You may toss it up
lightly with two forks, to separate the grains while it is dry-
ing, hut do not. stir it with a spoon.

A PILAU.

TAKE a large fine fowl, and cover the breast with slices of
fat bacon or ham, secured by skewers. Put it into a stew-
pan with two sliced oniorfc. Season it to your taste with
white pepper and mace. Have ready a pint of rice that has
been well picked, washed, and soaked. Cover the fowTwith
it. Put in as much water as will well cover the whole.
Stew it about half an hour, or till the fowl and rice are tho-
roughly done ; keeping the stew-pan closely covered. Dish
it all together, either with the rice covering the fowl, or laid
round it in little heaps.

You may make a pilau of beef or mutton with a larger
quantity of rice ; which must not be put in at first, or it will
be done too much, the meat requiring a longer time to stew.

CHICKEN SALAD.

THE fowls for this purpose should be young and fine. You
may either boil or roast them. They must be quite cold.
Having removed all the skin and fat, and disjointed the fowls

148 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

cut the meat from the bones into very small pieces, not ex-
ceeding- an inch. Wash and split two large fine heads of
celery, and cut the white part into pieces also about an inch
long; and having mixed the chicken and celery together, put
them into a deep china dish, cover it and set it away.

It is best not to prepare the dressing till just before the
salad is to be eaten, that it may be as fresh as possible.
Have ready the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs. Put there-
into a flat dish, and mash them to a paste with the back of a
wooden spoon. Add to the egg a small tea-spoonful of fine
salt, the same quantity of cayenne pepper, half a jill of made
mustard, a jill or a wine-glass and a half of vinegar, and
rather more than two wine-glasses of sweet oil. Mix all these
ingredients thoroughly ; stirring them a long time till they
are quite smooth.

The dressing should not be put on till a few minutes before
the stilad is sent in; as by lying in it the chicken and celery
will become tough and hard. After you pour it on, mix the
the whole well together with a silver fork.

Chicken salad should be accompanied with plates of bread
and butter, and a plate of biscuits. It, is a supper dish, and
Js brought in with terrapin, oysters, &c.

Cold turkey is excellent prepared as above.

An interior salad may be made with cold fillet of veal,
instead of chickens.

Cold boiled lobster is very fine cut up and drest in this
manner, only substituting for celery, lettuce cut up and
mixed with the lobster.

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 149

TO ROAST A PAIR OF DUCKS.

AFTER the ducks are drawn, wipe out the inside with a clean
cloth, and prepare your stuffing. Mince very fine some green
sage leaves, and twice their quantity of onion, (which should
first be parboiled,) and add a little butter, and a seasoning
of pepper and salt. Mix the whole very well, and fill the
crops and bodies of the ducks with it, leaving a little space
for the stuffing to swell. Reserve the livers, gizzards, and
hearts to put in the gravy. Tie the bodies of the ducks
firmly round with strings, (which should be wetted or but-
tered to keep them from burning,) and put them on the spit
before a clear brisk fire. Baste them first with a little salt
and water, and then with their own gravy, dredging them
lightly with flour at the last. They will be done in about an
hour. After boiling the livers, gizzards and hearts, chop them,
and put them into the gravy ; having first skimmed it, and
thickened it with a little browned flour. •

Send to table with the ducks a small tureen of onion-sauce
with chopped sage leaves in it. Accompany them also with
stewed cranberries and green peas, if in season.

Canvas-back ducks are roasted in the same manner, omit-
ting the stuffing. They will generally be done enough In
three quarters of an hour. Send currant jelly to table with
them, and have heaters to place under the plates. Add to the
gravy a little cajrenne, and a large wine-glass of claret or port.

Other wild ducks and teal may be roasted in about half an
hour. Before roasting, parboil them with a large carrot
inside their bodies. This will draw all the fishy or sedgy
taste that may be about the ducks. Then throw away the

carrot, and lay them in fresh water.

13*

150 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Vou may serve up with wild ducks, &c. orange-sauce,
which is made by boiling in a little water two large sweet
oranges cut into slices, having first removed the rind. When
tbe pulp is all dissolved, strain and press it through a sieve,
and add to it the juice of two more oranges, and a little sugar.
Send it to table either warm or cold.

HALF roast a large duck. Cut it up, and put it into a
stew-pan with a pint of beef-gravy, or dripping of roast-beef.
Have ready two boiled onions, half a handful of sage leaves,
and two leaves of mint, all chopped very fine and seasoned
with pepper and salt. Lay these ingredients over the duck.
Stew it slowly for a quarter of an hour. Then put in a quart
of young green peas. Cover it closely, and simmer it half
an hour longer, till the peas are quite soft. Then add a piece
of butter rolled in flour ; quicken the fire, and give it one
boil. Serve up all together.

A cold duck that has been under-done may be stewed in
this manner.

TO HASH A DUCK.

CUT up the duck and season it with pepper and mixed
spices. Have ready some thin slices of cold ham or bacon.
Place a layer of them in a stew-pan ; then put in the duck
and cover it with ham. Add just water enough to moisten it,
and pour over all a large glass of red wine. Cover the pan
closely and let it stew for an hour.

Have ready a quart or more of green peas, boiled tender,

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 151

drained, and mixed with butter and pepper. Lay them round
the hashed duck.

If you hash a cold duck in this manner, a quarter of an
hour will be sufficient for stewing it; it having been cooked
already.

TO ROAST A GOOSE.

HAVING drawn and singed the goose, wipe out the inside
with a cloth, and sprinkle in some pepper and salt. Make a
stuffing of four good sized onions minced fine, and half their
quantity of green sage leaves minced also, a large tea-cupful
of grated bread-crumbs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut,
and the beaten yolks of two eggs, with a little pepper and
salt. Mix the whole together, and incorporate them well.
Put the stuffing into the goose, and press it in hard ; but do
not entirely fill up the cavity, as the mixture will swell in
cooking. Tie the goose securely round with a greased or
wetted string; and paper the breast to prevent it from scorch-
ing. Fasten the goose on the spit at both ends. The fire
must be brisk and well kept up. It will require from two
hours to two and a half to roast. Baste it at first with a little
salt and water, and then with its own gravy. Take off the
paper when the goose is about half done, and dredge it with
a little flour towards the last. Having parboiled the liver
and heart, chop them and put them into the gravy, which must
be skimmed well and thickened with a little browned flour.

Send apple-sauce to table with the goose ; also mashed
potatoes.

A goose may be stuffed entirely with potatoes, boiled and
mashed with milk, butter, pepper and salt.

You may make a gravy of the giblets, that is the neck,

1 52 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

pinions, liver, heart and gizzard, stewed in a little water,
thickened with butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with pep-
per and salt. Add a glass of red wine. Before you send it
to table, take out all but the liver and heart ; mince them and
leave them in the gravy. This gravy is by many preferred
to that which comes from the goose in roasting. It is well
to have both.

If a goose is old it is useless to cook it, as when hard and
tough it cannot be eaten.

A GOOSE PIE.

CUT a fine large young goose into eight pieces, and season
it with pepper. Reserve the giblets for gravy. Take a
smoked tongue that has been all night in soak, parboil it, peel
it, and cut it into thick slices, omitting the root, which you
must divide into small pieces, and put into a sauce-pan writh
the giblets and sufficient water to stew them slowly.

Make a nice paste, allowing a pound and a half of butter to
three pounds of flour. Roll it out thick, and line with it the
bottom and sides of a deep dish. Fill it with the pieces of
goose, and the slices of tongue. Skim the gravy you have
drawn from the giblets, thicken it with a little browned flour,
and pour it into the pie dish. Then put on the lid or upper
crust. Notch and ornament it handsomely with leaves and
flowers of paste. Bake the pie about three hours in a brisk
oven.

In making a large goose pie you may add a fowl, or a pair
of pigeons, or partridges, — all cut up.

A duck pie may be made in the same m-anner.

Small pies are sometimes made of goose giblets only.

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 153

A CHRISTMAS GOOSE PIE.

THESE pies are ahvays made with a standing crust. Put
iuto a sauce-pan one pound of butter cut up, and a pint and a
half of water; stir it while it is melting', and let it come to a
boil. Then skim off whatever milk or impurity may rise to
the top. Have ready four pounds of flour sifted into a pan,
Make a hole in the middle of it, and pour in the melted
butter while hot. Mix it with a spoon to a stiff paste, (add-
ing the beaten yolks of three or four eggs,) and then knead it
very well with your hands, on the pasteboard, keeping it
dredged with flour till it ceases to be sticky. Then set it
away to cool.

Split a large goose, and a fowl down the back, loosen the
flesh all over with a sharp knife, and take out all the bones.
Parboil a smoked tongue ; peel it and cut off the root. Mix .
together a powdered nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of pow-
dered mace, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a tea-spoonful ol
salt, and season with them the fowl and the goose.

Roll out the paste near an inch thick, and divide it into
three pieces. Cut out two of them of an oval form for the
top and bottom ; and the other into a long straight piece for
the sides or walls of the pie. Brush the paste all over with
beaten white of egg, and set on the bottom the piece that is
to form the wall, pinching the edges together, and cementing
them with white of egg. The bottom piece must be large
enough to turn up a little round the lower edge of the wall
piece, to which it must be firmly joined all round. When you
have the crust properly fixed, so as to be baked standing alone
without a dish, put in first the goose, then the fowl, and then
the tongue. Fill up what space is left with pieces of the flesh
of pigeons, or ef partridges, quails, or any game that is conve-

154 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

•

nient. There must be no bones in the pie. You may add
also some bits of ham, or some force-meat balls. Lastly,
cover the other ingredients with half a pound of butter,
and put on the top crust, which, of course, must be also of an
oval form to correspond with the bottom. The lid must be
placed not quite on the top edge of the wall, but an inch
and a half below it. Close it very well, and ornament the
sides and top with festoons and leaves cut out of paste. Notch
the edges handsomely, and put a paste flower in the centre.
Glaze the whole with beaten yolk of egg, and bind the pie
all round with a double fold of white paper. Set it in a regu-
lar oven, and bake it four hours.

•

This is one way of making the celebrated goose pies that
it is customary in England to send as presents at Christmas.
They are eaten at luncheon, and if the weather is cold, and
they are kept carefully covered up from the air, they will
be good for two or three weeks ; the standing crust assist-
ing to preserve them.

TO ROAST A TURKEY.

MAKE a force-meat of grated bread-crumbs, minced suet,
sweet marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and
beaten yolk of egg. You may add some grated cold ham.
Light some writing paper, and singe the hairs from the skin
of the turkey. Reserve the neck, liver, and gizzard for the
gravy. Stuff the craw of the turkey with the force-meat, of
which there should be enough made to form into balls for
frying, laying them round the turkey wThen it is dished.
Dredge it with flour, and roast it before a clear brisk fire,
basting it with cold lard. Towards the last, set the turkey
nearer to the fire, dredge it again very lightly with flour, and

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 155

baste it with butter. It will require, according to its si/e,
from two to three hours roasting.

Make the gravy of the giblets cut in pieces, seasoned, and
stewed for two hours in a very little water ; thicken it with
a spoonful of browned flour, and stir into it the gravy from tho
dripping-pan, having first skimmed off the fat.

A turkey should be accompanied by ham. or tongue. Serve
up with it mushroom-sauce. Have stewed cranberries on
the table to eat writh it. Do not help any one to the legs,
or drum-sticks as they are called.

Turkeys are sometimes stuffed entirely with sausage-meat.
Small cakes of this meat should then be fried, and laid
round it.

To bone a^turkey, you must begin with a very sharp knife
at the top of the wings, and scrape the flesh loose from the
bone without dividing or cutting it to pieces. If done care-
fully and dexterously, the whole mass of flesh may be sepa-
rated from tfhe bone, so that you can take hold of the head
and draw out the entire skeleton at once. A large quantity of
force-meat having been prepared, stuff it hard into the turkey,
restoring it by doing so to its natural form, filling out the
body, breast, wings and legs, so as to resemble their original
shape when the bones were in. Roast or bake it; pouring
a glass of port wine into the gravy. A boned turkey is fre-
quently served up cold, covered with lumps of currant jelly ;
slices of which are laid round the dish.

Any sort of poultry or game may be boned and stuffed in
the same manner.

A cold turkey that has not been boned is sometimes sent to
table larded all over the breast with slips of fat bacon, drawn
through the flesh with a larding needle, and arranged in
regular form.

156 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TO BOIL A TURKEY.

TAKE twenty-five large fine oysters, and chop them. Mix
with them- half a pint of grated bread-crumbs, a little
sweet marjoram, a quarter of a pound of butter, two table-
spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, and the beaten yolks of three
eggs. When it is thoroughly mixed, stuff the craw of the
turkey with it, and sew up the skin. Then dredge it with
flour, put it into a large pot or kettle, and cover it well with
cold water. Place it over the fire, and let it boil slowly for
half an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Then remove
the pot from over the fire, and set it on hot coals to stew slowly
for two hours, or two hours and a half, according to its size.
Just before you send it to table, place it again over the fire to
get well heated. When you boil a turkey, skewer the liver
and gizzard to the sides, under the wings.

Send it to table with oyster- sauce in a small tureen.

In making the stuffing, you may substitute for the grated
bread, chestnuts boiled, peeled, and minced or mashed. Serve
up chestnut-sauce, made by peeling some boiled chestnuts and
putting them whole into melted butter.

Some persons, to make them white, boil their turkeys tied
op in a large cloth sprinkled with flour.

With a turkey, there should be on the table a ham, or a
smoked tonjjue.

TO ROAST PIGEONS.

DRAW and pick four pigeons immediately after they are
killed, and let them be cooked soon, as they do not keep well.
Wash the inside very clean, and wipe it dry. Stuff them
with a mixture of parsley parboiled and chopped, grated

POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 157

bread-crumbs, and butter; seasoned with pepper, salt, and
nutmeg. Dredge them with flour, and roast them before a
good fire, basting them with butter. They will be done in
about twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve them up with
parsley-sauce. Lay the pigeons on the dish in a row.

If asparagus is in season, it will be much better than pars-
ley both for the stuffing and sauce. It must first be boiled.
Chop the green heads for the stuffing, and cut them in two for
the melted butter. Have cranberry-sauce on the table.

Pigeons may be split and broiled, like chickens ; also
stewed or fricasseed.

They are very good stewed with slices of cold, ham and
green peas, serving up all in the same dish.

PIGEON PIE.

TAKE four pigeons, and pick and clean them very nicely.
Season them with pepper and -salt, and put inside of every
one a large piece of butter and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg.
Have ready a good paste, allowing a pound of butter to two
pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out rather thick, and line with
it the bottom and sides of a large deep dish. Put in the
pigeons, and lay on the top some bits of butter rolled in flour.
Pour in nearly enough of water to fill the dish. Cover the
pie with a lid of paste rolled out thick, and nicely notched,
and ornamented with paste leaves and flowers.

You may make a similar pie of pheasants, partridges, or
grouse.

In preparing pigeons, &c. for pies, loosen the joints with
a knife, as in carving.

14

158 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TO ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAILS

OR GROUSE.

PICK and draw the birds immediately after they are brought
in. Before you roast them, fill the inside with pieces of a
fine ripe orange, leaving out the rind and seeds. Or stuff
them with grated cold ham, mixed with bread-crumbs, butter,
and a little yolk of egg. Lard them with small slips of the
fat of bacon drawn through the flesh with a larding needle.
Roast them before a clear fire.

Make a fine rich gravy of the trimmings of meat or poultry,
stewed in a little water, and thickened with a spoonful of
browned flour. Strain it, and set it on the fire again, having
added half a pint of claret, and the juice of two large oranges.
Simmer it for a few minutes, pour some of it into the dish
with the game, and serve the remainder in a boat.

If you stuff them with force-meat, you may, instead of lard-
ing, brush them all over with beaten yolk of egg, and then
cover them with bread-crumbs grated finely and sifted.

ANOTHER WAY TO ROAST PHEASANTS,
PARTRIDGES, &c.

CHOP some fine raw oysters, omitting the hard part ; mix
them \vith salt, and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg
to bind the other ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of
cold ham or bacon, and cover the birds with them ; then wrap
them closely in sheets of white paper well buttered, put them
on the spit, and roast them before a clear fire.

Send them to table with oyster-sauce in a boat.

Pies may be made of any of these birds in the same
:nanner as a pigeon pie.

POULTRY, G A M E; ETC. 159

TO ROAST SNIPES, WOODCOCKS, OR

•

P L 0 V E R-S.

•

PICK them immediately ; wipe them, and season them
slightly with pepper and salt. Cut as many slices of luv;rl
as you have birds. Toast them brown, butter them, an I
lay them in the dripping-pan. Dredge the birds with
flour, and put them on a small spit before a clear brisk lire.
Baste them with lard, or fresh batter. They will be done in
twenty or. thirty minutes. Serve them up laid on the toast,
and garnished with sliced orange, or with orange jelly.

Have brown gravy in a boat.

TO ROAST REED-BIRDS, OR ORTOLANS.

PUT into every bird, an oyster, or a little butter mixed with
some finely sifted bread-crumbs. Dredge them with flour.
Run a small skewer through them, and tie them on the spit.
Baste them with lard or with fresh butter. They will be
done in about ten minutes.

A very nice way of cooking these birds is, (having greased
them all over with lard or with fresh butter, and wrapped
them in vine leaves secured closely with a string,) to lay them
in a heated iron pan, and bury them in ashes hot enough to
roast or bake them. Remove the vine leaves before you send
the birds to table.

Reed birds are very fine made into little dumplings with a
thin crust of flour and butter, and boiled about twenty minutes.
Each must be tied in a separate cloth. Or you may cook
a dozen in one paste, like an apple pudding.

160 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

LARDING.-

To lard meat or poultry is to introduce into the surface of the
flesh, slips of the fat only of hacon, by means of a larding-pin
or larding-needle, it being called by both names. It is a steel
instrument about a foot long, sharp at. one end, and cleft at
the other into four divisions, which are near two inches in
length, and resemble tweezers. It can be obtained at the
hardware stores.

Cut the bacon into slips about two inches in length, half
an inch in breadth, and half an inch in thickness. If intended
for poultry, the slips of bacon should not be thicker than a
straw. Put them, one at a time, into the cleft or split end
of the larding-needle. Give each slip a slight twist, and
press it down hard into the needle with your fingers. Then
push the needle through the flesh, (avoiding the places where
the bones are,) and when you draw it oat it will have left be^
hind it the slip of bacon sticking in the surface. Take care
to have all the slips of the same size, and arranged in regular
rows at equal distances. Every slip should stand up about
an inch. If any are wrong, take them out and do them over
again. To lard handsomely and neatly requires practice and
dexterity.

Fowls and game are generally larded on the breast only. If
cold, they can be done with the fat of cold boiled ham. Lard-
ing may be made to look very tastefully on any thing that is
not to be cooked afterwards.

P O U I, T R Y, fi A M E, E T C. 101

FORCE-MEAT BALLS.

To a pound of the lean of a leg of veal, allow a pound of
beef suet. Mince them together very fine. Then season it
to your taste with pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and chopped
sage or sweet marjoram. Then chop a half-pint of oysters,
and heat six eggs very well. Mix the whole together, and
pound it to a paste in a marble mortar. If you do not want
it immediately, put it away in a stone pot, strew a little flour
on the top, and cover it closely.

When you wish to use the force-meat, divide into equal
parts as much of it as you want ; and having floured your
hands, roll it into round balls, all of the same size. Either
fry them in butter, or boil them.

This force-meat will be found a very good stuffing for meat
or poultry.

FINE PARTRIDGE PIE.

HAVING trussed your partridges, loosen all the joints
with a knife, but do not cut them apart. Scald, peel, and

*

chop some fresh mushrooms, mix them with grated bread
crumbs, moistened with cream and beaten yolk of egg, and
with this stuff the partridges. Cover the sides and bottom
of a deep dish with a rich paste, adding a layer of cold boiled
ham sliced very thin. Add -some whole button mushrooms,
and some hard boiled yolks of eggs. Season with pepper

only. Put in the partridges, laying on each a bit of butter

i

roiled in flour. Cover the whole with a thick lid of paste
handsomely notched, and ornamented with paste leaves.
Before you put on the cover, pour a little water into the

pie.

14*

162

CxRAVY AND SAUCES.

DRAWN OR MADE GRAVY.

FOR this purpose you may use coarse pieces of the lean of
beef or veal, or the giblets and trimmings of poultry or game.
If must be stewed for a long time, skimmed, strained, thick-
ened, and flavoured with whatever condiments are supposed
most suited to the dish it is to accompany.

In preparing meat to stew for gravy, beat it with a mallet
or meat-beetle, score it, and cut it into small pieces ; this
makes it give out the juices. Season it with pepper and salt,
and put it into a stew-pan with butter only. Heat it gra-
dually, till it becomes brown. Shake the pan frequently, and
see that it does not burn or stick to the bottom. It will
generally be browned sufficiently in half an hour. Then put
in some boiling water, allowing one pint to each pound of
meat. Simmer it on coals by the side of the fire for near three
hours, skimming it well, and keeping it closely covered.
When done, remove it from the heat, let it stand awhile to
settle, and then strain it.

If you wish to keep it two or three da}^, (which you may
in winter,) put it into a stone vessel, cover it closely, and se*
it. in a cool place.

Do not thicken this gravy till you go to use it.
Mutton is unfit for made gravy.

SAUCES. \()->

•

.

MELTED BUTTER,

SOMETIMES CALLED DRAWN BUTTER.

MELTED butter is the foundation of most of the common
sauces. Have a covered sauce-pan for this purpose. One
lined with porcelain will be best. Take a quarter of a
pound of the best fresh butter, cut it up, and mix with it
about two tea-spoonfuls of flour. When it is thoroughly
mixed, put it into the sauce-pan, and add to it four table-
spoonfuls of cold water. Cover the sauce-pan, and set it in
a large tin pan of boiling water. Shake it round continually
(always moving it the same way) till it is entirely melted
and begins to simmer. Then let it rest till it boils up.

If you set it on hot coals, or over the fire, it will be oily.

If the butter and flour is not well mixed it will be lumpy.

If you put too much water, it will be thin and poor. All
these defects are to be carefully avoided.

In melting butter for sweet or pudding sauce, you may use
milk instead of water.

TO BROWN FLOUR.— Spread -some fine flour on a
plate, and set it in the oven, turning it up and stirring it fre-
quently that it may brown equally all through.

Put it into a jar, cover it well, and keep it to stir into

gravies to thicken and colour them.

TO BROWN BUTTER.— Put a lump of butter into a
frying-pan, and toss it round over the fire till it becomes brown.
Then dredge some browned flour over it, and stir it round
with a spoon till it boils. It must be made quite smooth.

You may make this into a plain sauce for fish by adding
cayenne and some flavoured vinegar.

104

PLAIN SAUCES.

LOBSTER SAUCE.— Boil a dozen blades of mace and
half a dozen pepper-corns in about a jill and a half (or- three
wine-glasses) of water, till all the strength of the spice is
extracted. Then strain it, and having cut three quarters of a
pound of butter into little bits, melt it in this water, dredging
in a little flour as you hold it over the fire to boil. Toss it
round, and let it just boil up and no more.

Take a cold boiled lobster, — pound the coral in a mortar,
adding a little sweet oil. Then stir it into the melted butter.

Chop the meat of the body into very small pieces, and rub
it through a cullender into the butter. Cut up the flesh of the
claws and tail into dice, and stir it in. Give it another boil
up, and it will be ready for table.

Serve it up with fresh salmon, or any boiled fish of the
best kind.

Crab sauce is made in a similar manner ; also prawn and
shrimp sauce.

•

ANCHOVY SAUCE.— Soak eight anchovies for three or
four hours, changing the water 'every hour. Then put them
into a sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Set them on hot
coals and simmer them till they are entirely dissolved, and
till the liquid is diminished two-thirds. Then strain it, stir
two glasses of red wine, and add to it about half a pint of
melted butter.

Heat it over again, and send it to table with salmon or
fresh cod.

SAUCES. 1G5

•

CELERY SAUCE— Take a large bunch of young celery.
Wash and pare it very clean. Cut it into pieces, and boil it
gently in a small quantity of water, till it is quite tender.
Then add a little powdered mace . and nutmeg, and a very
little pepper and salt. Take a tolerably large piece of butter,
roll it well in flour, and stir it into the sauce. Boil it up
again, and it is ready to send to table.

You may make it with cream, thus : — Prepare and boil
your celery as above, adding some mace, nutmeg, a piece of
butter the size of a walnut, rolled in flour ; and half a pint of
cream. Boil all together.

Celery sauce is eaten with boiled poultry.

When celery is out of season, you may use celery seed,
boiled hi the water which you afterwards use for the melted
butter, but strained out after boiling.

NASTURTIAN SAUCE.— This is by many considered
superior to caper sauce and is eaten with boiled mutton. It
is made with the green seeds of nasturtians, pickled simply
in cold vinegar.

Cut about six ounces of butter into small bits, and put them
into a small sauce-pan. Mix with a wine-glass, of water suf-
ficient flour to make a thick batter, pour it on the butter, and
hold the sauce-pan over hot coals, shaking it quickly round,
till the butter is melted. Let it just boil up, and then take it
from the fire. Thicken it with the pickled nasturtians and
send it to table in a boat.

Never pour melted butter over any thing, but always send
it to table in a sauce-tureen or boat.

166 DIRECT LONS FOR COOKING.

^ WHITE ONION SAUCE.— Peel a dozen onions, and
throw them into salt and water to keep them white. Then boil
them tender. When done, squeeze the water from them, and

•

chop them. Have ready some butter that has been melted
rich and smooth with milk or cream instead of water. Put
the onions into the melted butter, and boil them up at once.
If you wish to have them very mild, put in a turnip with
them at the first boiling.

Young white onions, if very small, need not be chopped,,
but may be put whole into the butter.

Use this sauce for rabbits, tripe, boiled poultry, or any
boiled fresh meat.

BROWN ONION SAUCE.— Slice some large mild Spa-
nish onions. Cover them with butter, and set them over a
slow fire to brown. Then add salt and cayenne pepper-to your
taste, and some good brown gravy of roast meat, poultry or
game, thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour that has
first been browned by holding it in a hot pan or shovel over
the fire. Give it a boil, skim it well', and just before you
take, it off, stir in a half glass of port or claret, and the samo
quantity of mushroom catchup.

Use this sauce for roasted poultry, game, or meat.

MUSHROOM SAUCE.— Wash a pint of small button
mushrooms, — remove the stems and the outside skin. Stew
them slowly in veal gravy or in milk or cream, seasoning
them with pepper and salt, and adding a piece of butter rolled
in a large proportion of flour. Stew them till quite tender,
now and then shaking the pan round.

The flnvnur will be heightened by having salted a few the

SAUCES. 1(J7

night before in a covered dish, to extract the juice, and then
stirring it into the sauce while stewing.

This sauce may be served up with poultry, game, or beef-
steaks.

In gathering mushrooms take only those that are of a dull
pearl colour on the outside, and that have the under part
tinged with pale pink.

Boil an onion with them. If there is a poisonous one
among them the onion will turn black. Then throw away
the whole.

EGG SAUCE. — Boil four eggs ten minutes. Dip them
into cold water to prevent their looking blue. Peel off the
shell. Chop the yolks of all, and the whites of two, and
stir them into melted butter. Serve this sauce with boiled
poultry or fish.

BREAD SAUCE. — Put some grated crumbs of stale bread
into a sauce-pan, and pour over them some of the liquor in
which poultry or fresh meat has been boiled. Add some
plums or dried currants that have been picked and washed.
Having simmered them till the bread is quite soft, and the
currants well plumped, add melted butter or cream.

This sauce is for a roast pig»

MINT SAUCE. — Take a large bunch of young green mint ;
if old the taste will be unpleasant. Wash it very clean.
Pick all the leaves from the stalks. Chop the leaves very
fine, and mix them with cold vinegar, and a large proportion
of powdered sugar. There must be merely sufficient vinegar
to moisten the mint well, but by no means enough to make
the sauce liquid. It should be very sweet.

168 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

It is only eaten in the spring with roast lamb. Send it to
lable in a sauce-tureen.

CAPER SAUCE.— Take two large table-spoonfuls of
capers and a little vinegar. Stir them for some time into
half a pint of thick melted butter.

This sauce is for boiled mutton.

If you happen to have no capers, pickled cucumber chopped
fine, or the pickled pods of radish seeds, may be stirred into
the butter as a tolerable substitute, or nasturtians.

PARSLEY SAUCE.— Wash a bunch of parsley in cold
water. Then boil it about six or seven minutes in salt and
water. Drain it, cut the leaves from the stalks, and chop
them fine. Have ready some melted butter, and stir in the
parsley. Allow two small table-spoonfuls of leaves to half a
pint of butter.

Serve it up with boiled fowls, rock-fish, sea-bass, and other
boiled fresh fish. Also with knuckle of veal, and with calf's
head boiled plain.

APPLE SAUCE. — Pare, core, and slice some fine apples.
Put them into a sauce-pan with just sufficient water to keep
them from burning, and some grated lemon-peel. Stew them
till quite soft and tender. Then mash them to a paste, and
make them very sweet with brown sugar, adding a small
piece of butter and some nutmeg.

Apple sauce is eaten with roast pork, roast goose and roast
ducks.

Be careful not to have it thin and watery.

SAUCES. 169

CRANBERRY SAUCE.— Wash a quart of ripe cran-
berries, and put them into a pan with about a wine-glass
of water. Stew them slowly, and stir them frequently,
particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great
deal of stewing, and should be like a marmalade when done.

After you take them from the fire, stir in a pound of
brown sugar.

When they are thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish,
and set them away to get cold.

You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into
a mould, and when it is in a firm shape send it to table on a
glass dish. Taste it when it is cold, and if not sweet enough,
add more sugar. Cranberries require more sugar than any
other fruit, except plums.

Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast turkey, roast fowls,
and roast ducks.

PEACH SAUCE.— Take a quart of dried peaches, (those
are richest and best that are dried with the skins on,) and
soak them in cold water till they are tender. Then drain
them, and put them into a covered pan with a very little water.
Set them on coals, and simmer them till they are entirely
dissolved. Then mash them with brown sugar, and send
them to table cold to eat with roast meat, game or poultry.

WINE SAUCE. — Have ready some rich thick melted or
drawn butter, and the moment you take it from the fire, stir
in two large glasses of white wine, two table-spoonfuls of
powdered white sugar, and a powdered nutmeg. Serve it up
with plum pudding, or any sort of boiled pudding that is

made of a batter.

15

170 DIRECTIONS FOK COOKING.

COLD SWEET SAUCE.— Stir together, as for a pound-
cake, equal quantities of fresh butter and powdered white
sugar. When quite light and creamy, add some powdered
cinnamon or nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon. Send it to
table in a small deep plate with a tea-spoon in it.

Eat it with batter pudding, bread pudding, Indian pudding,
&c. whether baked or boiled. Also with boiled apple pud-
ding or dumplings, and with fritters and pancakes.

CREAM SAUCE.— Boil a pint and a half of rich cream
with four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, some powdered
nutmeg, and a dozen bitter almonds or peach kernels slightly
broken up, or a dozen fresh peach leaves. As soon as it has
boiled up, take it off the fire and strain it. If it is to be eaten
with boiled pudding or with dumplings send it to table hot,
bat let it get quite cold if you intend it as an accompaniment
to fruit r'es or tarts.

OYSTER SAUCE.— Take a pint of oysters, and save out
a little of their liquor. Put them with their remaining liquor,
and some mace and nutmeg, into a covered saucepan, and
simmer them on hot coals about ten minutes. Then drain
them. Oysters for sauce should be large.

Having prepared in another saucepan some drawn or
melted butter, (mixed with oyster liquor instead of water,)
pour it into a sauce-boat, add the oysters to it, and serve it
up with boiled poultry, or with boiled fresh fish.

Celery, first boiled and then chopped, is an improvement to
oyster sauce.

171

STORE FISH SAUCES.

GENERAL REMARKS.

STORE fish sauces if properly made will keep for many
taonths. They may be brought to table in fish castors,
but a customary mode is to send them round in the small
black bottles in which they have been originally de-
posited. They are in great variety, and may be pur-
chased of the grocers that sell oil, pickles, anchovies, &c.
In making them at home, the few following receipts may bo
found useful.

The usual way of eating these sauces is to pour a little on
your plate, and mix it with the melted butter. They give
flavour to fish that 'would otherwise be insipid, and are in
general use at genteel tables.

Two table-spoonfuls of any of these sauces may be added
to the melted butter a minute before you take it from the fire.
But if brought to table in bottles, the company can use it or
omit it as they please.

SCOTCH SAUCE.— Take fifteen anchovies, chop them
fine, and ste :p them in vinegar for a week, keeping the vessel
closely covered. Then put them into a pint of claret or port
wine. Scrape fine a large stick of horseradish, and chop
two onions, a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of the leaves
of lemcn-thyme, and two large peach leaves. Add a nutmeg,
six or eight blades of mace, nine cloves, and a tea-spoonful
of black pepper, all slightly pounded in a mortar. Put all
these ingredients into a silver or block tin sauce-pan, or into

172 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

an earthen pipkin, and add a few grains of cochineal to colour
it. Pour in a large half pint of the best vinegar, and simmer
it slowly till the bones of the anchovies are entirely dissolved.

Strain the liquor through a sieve, and when quite cold put
it away for use in small bottles ; the corks dipped in melted
rosin, and well secured by pieces of leather tied closely ovei
them. Fill each bottle quite full, as it will keep the bettei
for leaving no vacancy.

This sauce will give a fine flavour to melted hutter.

QUIN'S SAUCE. — Pound in amortar six large anchovies,
moistening them with their own pickle. Then chop and
pound six small onions. Mix them with a little black pep-
per and a little cayenne, half a glass of soy, four glasses of
mushroom catchup, two glasses of claret, and two of black
walnut pickle. Put the mixture into a small sauce-pan or
earthen pipkin, and let it simmer slowly till all the bones of
the anchovies are dissolved. Strain it, and when cold, bottle
it for use ; dipping the cork in melted rosin, and tying leather
over it. Fill the bottles quite full.

KITCHINER'S FISH SAUCE.— Mix together a pint of
claret, a pint of mushroom catchup, and half a pint of walnut
pickle, four ounces of pounded anchovy, an ounce of fresh
lemon-peel pared thin, and the same quantity of shalot or
small onion. Also an ounce of. scraped horseradish, half an
ounce of black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice mixed,
and the same quantity of cayenne and celery-seed. Infuse
these ingredients in a wide-mouthed bottle (closely stopped)
for a fortnight, shaking the mixture every day. Then strain
and bottle it lor use. Put it up in small bottles, filling them
quite full.

STORE FISH SAUCES. 173

HARVEY'S SAUCE— Dissolve six anchovies in a pint
of strong vinegar, and then add to them three table-spoonfuls
of India soy, and three table-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup,
two heads of garlic bruised small, and a quarter of an ounce

/

of cayenne. Add sufficient cochineal powder to colour the
mixture red. Let all these ingredients infuse in the vinegar
for a fortnight, shaking it every day, and then strain and
bottle it for use. Let the "bottles be small, and cover the
corks with leather.

GENERAL SAUCE. — Chop six shalots or small onions,
a clove of garlic, two peach leaves, a few sprigs of lemon-
thyme and of sweet basil, and a few bits of fresh orange-peei.
Bruise in a mortar a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter
of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of long pepper. Mix
two ounces of salt, a jill of claret, « the juice of two
lemons, and a pint of Madeira. Put the whole of these ingre-
dients together in a stone jar, very closely covered. Let ii
stand all night over embers by the side of the fire. In the
morning pour off the liquid quickly and carefully from the
lees or settlings, strain it and put it into small bottles, dipping
the corks in melted rosin.

»

This sauce is intended to flavour melted butter or gravy,
for every sort of fish and meat.

•

PINK SAUCE.— Mix together half a pint of port wine,
half a pint of strong vinegar, the juice and grated peel of two
large lemons, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, a dozen blades
of mace, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cochineal.
Let it infuse a fortnight, stirring it several times a day. Then
boil it ten minutes, strain it, and bottle it for use.

Eat it with any sort of fish or game. It will give a fine

pink tinge to melted butter.

15*

174

CATCHUPS.

LOBSTER CATCHUP.— This catchup, warmed in
melted butter, is an excellent substitute for fresh lobster sauce
at seasons when the fish cannot be procured, as, if properly
made, it will keep a year.

Take a fine lobster that weighs about three pounds. Put
it into boiling water, and cook it thoroughly. When it is
cold break it up, and extract all the flesh from the shell.
Pound the red part or coral in a marble mortar, and when it
is well bruised, add the white meat by degrees, and pound
that also ; seasoning it with a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and
moistening it gradually with sherry wine. When it is beaten
to a smooth paste, mix it well with the remainder of the
bottle of sherry. Put it into wide-mouthed bottles, and on
the top of each put a table-spoonful of sweet oil. Dip the
corks in melted rosin, and secure them well by tying leather
over them.

In using this catchup, allow four table-spoonfuls to a com-
mon-seized sauce-boat of melted butter. Put in the catchup
at the last, and hold it over the fire just long enough to be
thoroughly heated.

ANCHOVY CATCHUP.— Bone two dozen anchovies,
arid then chop them. Put to them ten shalots, or very small
onions, cut fine, and a handful of scraped horseradish, with a
quarter of an ounce of mace. Add a lemon, cut into slices,
twelve cloves, and twelve pepper-corns. Then mix together
a pint of port, a pint of madeira, and a pint of anchovy

CATCHUPS. 175

liquor. Put the other ingredients into the liquid, and
boil it slowly till reduced one-half. Then strain it, and
when cold put it into small bottles, securing the corks with
leather.

OYSTER CATCHUP Take large salt oysters that

have just been opened. Wash them in their own liquor, and
pound them in a mortar, omitting the hard parts. To every
pint of the pounded oysters, add a half pint of white wine or
vinegar, in which you must give them a boil up, removing the
scum as it rises. Then^to each quart of the boiled oysters
allow a tea-spoonful of beaten white pepper, a tea-spoonful of
pounded mace, and cayenne pepper to your taste. Let it boil
up for a few minutes, and then pass it through a sieve into an
earthen pan. When cold, put it into small bottles, filling them
quite full, as it will not keep so well if there is a vacancy at the
top. Dip the corks in melted rosin, and tie leather over each.

WALNUT CATCHUP.— Take green walnuts that are
young enough to be easily pierced through with a large
needle. Having pricked them all in several places, throw
them into an earthen pan with a large handful of salt, and
barely sufficient water to cover. them. Break up and mash
them with a potato-beetle, or a rolling-pin. Keep them four
days in the salt and water, stirring and mashing them every
day. The rinds will now be quite soft. Then scald them
with boiling-hot salt and water, and raising the pan on the edge,
let the walnut liquor flow away from the shells into another
pan. Put the shells into a mortar, and pound them with
vinegar, which will extract from them all the remaining juice.

Put all the walnut liquor together, and boil and skim it ;

176 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

then to every quart allow an ounce of bruised ginger, an ounce
of black pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce
of nutmeg, all slightly beaten. Boil the spice and walnut
liquor in a closely covered vessel for three quarters of an
hour. "When cold, bottle it for use, putting equal proportions
of the spice into each bottle. Secure the corks with leather.

MUSHROOM CATCHUP.— Take mushrooms that have
been freshly gathered, and examine them carefully to ascer-
tain that they are of the right sort. Pick them nicely, and
wipe them clean, but do not wash them. Spread a layer of
them at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and then sprinkle
them well with salt ; then another layer of mushrooms, and
another layer of salt, and so on alternately. Throw a folded
cloth over the jar, and set it by the fire or in a very cool oven.
Let it remain thus for twenty-four hours, and then mash them
well with your hands. Next squeeze and strain them through
a bag.

To every quart of strained liquor add an ounce and a half
of whole black pepper, and boil it slowly in a covered vessel
for half an hour. Then add a quarter of an ounce of allspice,
half an ounce of sliced ginger, a few cloves, and three or
four blades of mace. Boil it with the spice fifteen minutes
longer. When it is done, take it off, and let it stand awhile
to settle. Pour it carefully off from the sediment, and put it
into small bottles, filling them to the top. Secure them well
with corks dipped in melted rosin, and leather caps tied
over them.

The longer catchup is boiled, the better it will keep.

You may add cayenne and nutmeg to the spices.

The bottles should be quite small, as it soon spoils after
opened.

CATCHUPS. 177

TOM ATA CATCHUP.— Take a peck of large ripe to-
matas. Having cut a slit in each, put them into a large pre-
serving-kettle, and boil them half an hour. Then take them
out, and press and strain the pulp through a hair sieve. Put
it back into the kettle, and add an ounce of salt, an ounce of
powdered mace, half an ounce of powdered cloves, a small tea-
spoonful of ground black pepper, the same of cayenne pepper,
and eight table-spoonfuls of ground mustard. Mix the season-
ing with the tomata pulp ; let it boil slowly during four hours.
Then take it out of the kettle, and let it stand till next day,
in an uncovered tureen. When cold, stir into it one pint of
the best cider vinegar. Put it into clean bottles, and seal tho
corks. It will be found excellent for flavouring stews, hashes,
fish-sauce, &c.

LEMON CATCHUP.— Grate the peel of a dozen large
fresh lemons. Prepare, by pounding them in a mortar,
two ounces of mustard seed, half an ounce of black pepper,
half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of mace,
and a quarter of an ounce of cloves. Slice thin two ounces
of horseradish. Put all these ingredients together. Strew
over them one ounce of fine salt. Add the juice of the le-
mons.

Boil the whole twenty minutes. Then, put it warm into a
jar, and let it stand three weeks closely covered. Stir it up
daily.

•

Then strain it through a sieve, and put it up in small bottles
to flavour fish and other sauces.

This is sometimes called lemon pickle.

178 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

SEA CATCHUP.— Take a gallon of stale strong beer, a
pound of anchovies washed from the pickle, a pound of peeled
ehalots or small onions, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce
of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, three or four
large pieces of ginger, and two quarts of large mushroom-flaps
rubbed to pieces. Put the whole into a kettle closely covered,
and let it simmer slowly till reduced to one half. Then strain
it through a flannel bag, and let it stand till quite cold before
you bottle it. Have small bottles and fill them quite full of
the catchup. Dip the corks in melted rosin.

This catchup keeps well at sea, and may be carried into
any part of the world. A spoonful of it mixed in melted but-
ter will make a fine fish sauce. It may also be used to flavour
gravy.

179

FLAVOUI^D VINEGARS.

THESE vinegars will be found very useful, at times when
the articles with which they are flavoured cannot be conve-
niently procured. Care should be taken to have the bottles
that contain them accurately labelled, very tightly corked,
and kept in a diy place. The vinegar used for these pur-
poses should be of the very best sort.

TARRAGON VINEGAR.— Tarragon should be gathered
on a dry day, just before the plant flowers Pick the green
leaves from the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire.
Then put them into a wide-mouthed stone jar, and cover them
with the best vinegar, rilling up the jar. Let it steep fourteen
days, and then strain it into wide-mouthed bottles, in each of
which put a large quantity of fresh tarragon leaves, and let
them remain in the vinegar.

SWEET BASIL VINEGAR— Is made precisely in the
same manner; also those of green mint, and sweet marjoram.

CELERY VINEGAR.— Pound two ounces of celery seed
in a mortar, and steep it for a fortnight in a quart of vinegar.
Then strain and bottle it.

BURNET VINEGAR.— Nearly fill a wide-mouthed boN
tle with the fresh green leaves of burnet, cover them with
vinegar, and let them steep two weeks. Then strain off *he
vinegar, wash the bottle, put in a fresh supply of burnet
leaves, pour the same vinegar over them, and let it infuse a

180 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

fortnight longer. Then strain it again and it will be fit for
use. The flavour will exactly resemble that of cucumbers.

HORSERADISH VINEGAR.^-Make a quart of the best
vinegar boiling hot, and pour it on four ounces of scraped
horseradish. Let it stand a week, then strain it off, renew
the horseradish, adding the same vinegar cold, and let it
infuse a week longer, straining it again at the last.

SHALOT VINEGAR.— Peel and chop fine four ounces
of shalots, or small button onions. Pour on them a quart of
the best vinegar, and let them steep a fortnight; then strain
^ind bottle it.

Make garlic vinegar in the same manner ; using but one
ounce of garlic to a quart of vinegar. Two or three drops
will be sufficient to impart a garlic taste to a pint of gravy or
sauce. More will be offensive. The cook should be cautioned
to use it very sparingly, as to many persons it is extremely
disagreeable.

CHILLI VINEGAR.— Take a hundred red chillies or
capsicums, fresh gathered ; cut them into small pieces and
infuse them for a fortnight in a quart of the best vinegar
shaking the bottle every day. Then strain it.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR.— Put two quarts of ripe fresh-
gathered raspberries into a stone or china vessel, and pour
on them a quart of vinegar.- Let it stand twenty-four hours,
and then strain it through a sieve. Pour the liquid over two
quarts of fresh raspberries, and let it again infuse for a day
and a night. Then strain it a second time. Allow a pound
of loaf sugar *o every pint of juice. Break up the sugar, and

MTTSTARD AND PEPPER. 181

let it melt in the liquor. Then put the whole, into a stone
jar, cover it closely, and set it in a kettle of boiling water,

•

which must be kept on a quick boil for an hour. Take off all
the scum, and when cold, bottle the vinegar for use.

Raspberry vinegar mixed with water is a pleasant and
cooling beverage in warm weather ; also in fevers.

MUSTARD AND PEPPER.

COMMON MUSTARD— Is best when fresh made. Take

9

good flour of mustard ; put it in a plate, add to it a little salt,
and mix it by degrees with boiling water to the usual consist-
ence, rubbing it for a long time with a broad-bladed knife or
a wooden spoon. It should be perfectly smooth. The less
that is made at a time the better it will be. If you wish it
very mild,- use sugar instead of salt, and boiling milk instead
of water.

KEEPING MUSTARD.-— Dissolve three ounces of salt
in a quart of boiling vinegar, and pour it hot upon two ounces
of scraped horseradish. Cover the jar closely and let it stand
twenty-four hours. Strain it and then mix it by degrees with
the best flour of mustard. Make it of the usual thickness,
and beat it till quite smooth. Then put it into wide-mouthed
bottles and stop it closely.

FRENCH MUSTARD. — Mix together four ounces of the
very best mustard powder, four salt-spoons of salt, a large
table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves, and two cloves of

16

182 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

garlic chopped fine. Dilute it to the proper consistence by
adding alternately equal portions of vinegar and salad oil.
It will probably require about four wine-glassfuls or half a
pint. Mix it well, using for the purpose a wooden spoon.
When done, put it into a wide-mouthed bottle or into little
white jars. Cork it very closely, and keep it in a dry place.
It will not be fit for use in less than two days.

This (used as the common mustard) is a very agreeable
condiment for beef or mutton.

s

If you cannot procure tarragon leaves, buy at a grocer's a
bottle of tarragon vinegar. Mix it with an equal portion of
sweet oil, adding a few drops of garlic vinegar. Then stir
in mustard powder till sufficiently thick.

TO MAKE CAYENNE PEPPER.— Take ripe chillies
and dry them a whole day before the fire, turning them fre-
quently. When quite dry, trim off the stalks and pound the pods
in a mortar till they become a fine powder, mixing in about one
sixth of their weight in salt. Or you may grind them in a very
fine mill. While pounding the chillies, wear glasses to
save your eyes from being incommoded by them. Put the
powder into small bottles, and secure the corks closely.

KITCHEN PEPPER.— Mix together two ounces of the
best white ginger, an ounce of black pepper, an ounce of
white pepper, an ounce of cinnamon, an ounce of nutmeg, and
two dozen cloves. They must all be ground or pounded to a
fine powder, and thoroughly mixed. Keep the mixture in a
bottle, labelled, and well corked. It will be found useful in
reasoning many dishes ; and being ready prepared will save
mucn trouble.

183

VEGETABLES.

GENERAL REMARKS.

ALL vegetables should be well picked and washed. A very
little salt should always be thrown into the water in which
they are boiled. A steady regular fire should be kept up,
and they should never for a moment be allowed to stop boil-
ing or simmering till they are thoroughly done. Every sort
of vegetable should be cooked till tender, as if the least hard or
under-done they are both unpalatable and unwholesome. The
practice of putting pearl-ash in the pot to improve the colour
of green vegetables should be strictly forbidden, as it destroys
the flavour, and either renders them flat and insipid, or com-
/nunicates a very disagreeable taste of its own.

Every sort of culinary vegetable is infinitely best when
fresh from the garden, and gathered as short a time as possi-
ble before it is cooked. They should all be laid in a pan of
cold water for a while previous to boiling.

When done, they should be carefully drained before they
go to table, or they will be washy all through, and leave pud-
dles of discoloured water in the bottoms of the dishes, to the
disgust of the company and the discredit of the cook.

TO BOIL POTATOES.

POTATOES that are boiled together, should be as nearly as
possible of the Same size. Wash, but do not pare them. Put
them into a pot. with water enough to cover them about an inch,

184 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

and do not put on the pot-lid. When the water is very near
boiling, pour it off, and replace it with the same quantity of
cold water, into which throw a good portion of salt. The cold
water sends the heat from the surface to the heart, and makes
the potatoes mealy. Potatoes of a moderate size will require
about half an hour boiling ; large ones an hour. Try them
with a fork. When done, pour off the water, cover the pot
with a folded napkin, or flannel, and let them stand by the
fire about a quarter of an hour to dry.

Peel them and send them to table.

Potatoes are often served up with the skins on. It has a
coarse, slovenly look, and disfigures the appearance of the
dinner ; besides the trouble and inconvenience of peeling
them at table. But many prefer them thus.

When the skins crack in boiling, it is no proof that they
are done, as too much fire under the pot will cause the skins
of some potatoes to break while the inside is hard.

After March, when potatoes are old, it is best to pare them"
before boiling and to cut out all the blemishes. It is then better
to mash them always before they are sent to table. Mash
them when quite hot, using a potato-beetle for the purpose ;
add to them a piece of fresh butter, and a little salt, and, if
convenient, some milk, which will greatly improve them.
You may score and brown them on the top.

A very nice way of serving up potatoes is, after they are
peeled, to pour over them some hot cream in which a very
little butter has been melted, and sprinkle them with pepper.
This is frequently done in country houses where cream is
plenty. New potatoes (as they are called when quite young),
require no peeling, but should be well washed and brushed
before they are boiled.

VEGETABLES. 185

FRIED POTATOES.— Take cold potatoes that have
been boiled, grate them, make them into flat cakes, and fry
them in butter. They are nice at breakfast. You may mix
some beaten yolk of egg with them.

Cold potatoes may be fried in slices or quarters, or broiled
on a gridiron.

Raw potatoes, when fried, are generally hard, tough, and
strong.

POTATO SNOW.— For this purpose use potatoes that

•

are very white, mealy, and smooth. Boil them very care-
fully, and when they are done, peel them, pour off the water,
and set them on a trivet before the fire till they are quite dry
and powdery. Then rub them -through a coarse wire sieve
into the dish on which they are to go to table. Do not dis-
turb the heap of potatoes before it is served up, or the Hakes
will fall and it will flatten. This preparation looks well ;
but many think that it renders the potato insipid.

ROASTED POTATOES.— Take large fine potatoes;
wash and dry them, and either lay them on the hearth and
keep them buried in hot wood ashes, or bake them slowly in
a Dutch oven. They will not be done in less than two hours.
It will save time to half-boil them before they are roasted.
Send them to table with the skins on, and eat them with
cold butter and salt. They are introduced with cold meat at
supper.

Potatoes keep best buried in sand or earth. They should
never be wetted till they are washed for cooking. If you
have' them in the cellar, see that they are well covered with
matting or old carpet, as the frost injures them greatly.

1.6*

186 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

SWEET POTATOES BOILED.

IF among your sweet potatoes there should be any that are
very large and thick, split them, and cut them in four, that
they may not require longer time to cook than the others.
Boil them with the skins on in plenty of water, but without
any salt. You may set the pot on coals in the corner. Try
them with a fork, and see that they are done all through ; they
will take at least an hour. Then drain off the water, and set them
for a few minutes in a tin pan before the fire, or in the stove,
that they may be well dried. Peel them before they are sent to
table. When very large, and all of a size, you may roast them.

FRIED SWEET POTATOES.—Choose them of the
largest size. Half boil them, and then having taken off the
skins, cut the potatoes in slices, and fry them in butter, or
in nice dripping.

Sweet potatoes are very good stewed with fresh pork, veal,
or beef.

The best way to keep them through the cold weather, is to
bury them in earth or sand ; otherwise they will be scarcely
eatable after October.

CABBAGE.

ALL vegetables of the cabbage kind should be carefully
washed, and examined in case of insects lurking among the
leaves. To prepare a cabbage for boiling, remove the outer
leaves, and pare and trim the stalk, cutting it close and short.
If the cabbage is large, quarter it ; if small, cut it in half; and
let it stand for a while in a deep pan of cold water with the
large end downwards. Put it into a pot with plenty of water,

VEGETABLES. 187

(having- first tied it together to keep it whole while boiling,)
and, taking off the scum, boil it two hours, or till the stalk is
quite tender. When done, drain and squeeze it well. Before
you send it to table introduce a little fresh butter between the
leaves ; or have melted butter in a boat. If it has been boiled
with meat add no butter to it.

A young cabbage will boil in an hour or an hour and a
half.

GALE-CANNON. — Boil separately some potatoes and
cabbage. When done, drain and squeeze the cabbage, and
chop or mince it very small. Mash the potatoes, and mix
them gradually but thoroughly with the chopped cabbage,
adding butter, pepper and salt. There should be twice as
much potato as cabbage.

C ale-cannon is eaten with corned beef, boiled pork, or
bacon.

Cabbages may be kept good all winter by burying them in
a hole dug in the ground.

»

CAULIFLOWER.

REMOVE the green leaves that surround the head or white
part, and peel off the outside skin of the small piece of stalk
that is left on. Cut the cauliflower in four, and lay it for an
hour in a pan of cold water. Then tie it together before it
goes into the pot. Put it into boiling water and simmer it
till the stalk is thoroughly tender, keeping it well covered
with water, and carefully removing the scum. It will take
about two hours.

Take it up as soon as it is done ; remaining in the water

188 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

will discolour it. Drain it well, and send it to table with
melted butter.

It will be much whiter if put on in boiling milk and water.

BROCOL1. — Prepare brocoli for boiling in the same man-
ner as cauliflower, leaving the stalks rather longer, and split-
ting the head in half only. Tie it together again, before it
goes into the pot. Put it on in hot water, and let it simmer
till the stalk is perfectly tender.

As soon as it is done take it out of the water and drain it.
Send melted butter to table with it.

SPINACH.

•

SPINACH requires close examination and picking, as insects
are frequently found among it, and it is often gritty. Wash
it through three or four waters. Then drain it, and put it on
in boiling water. Ten minutes is generally sufficient time to
boil spinach. Be careful to remove the scum. When it is
quite tender, take it up, and drain and squeeze it well. Chop
it fine, and put it into a sauce-pan with a piece of butter and
a little pepper and salt. Set it on hot coals, and let it stew
five minutes, stirring it all the time.

SPINACH AND EGGS.— Boil the spinach as above, and
drain and press it, but do not cbop it. Have ready some eggs
poached as follows. Boil in a sauce-pan, and skim some
clear spring water, adding to it a table-spoonful of vinegar.
Break the eggs separately, and having taken the sauce-pan
off" the fire, slip fhe eggs one at a time into it with as much
dexterity as you can. Let the sauce-pan stand by the side

VEGETABLES. 189

•

of the fire till the white is set, and then put it over the fire for
two minutes. The yolk should be thinly covered by the
white. Take them up with an egg slice, and having trimmed
the edges of the whites, lay the eggs on the top of the spi-
nach, which should first be seasoned with pepper and salt and
a little butter, and must be sent to table hot.

TURNIPS.

TAKE off a thick paring from the outside, and boil the
turnips gently for an hour and a half. Try them with a fork,
and when quite tender, take them up, drain them on a sieve,
and either send them to table whole with melted butter, or
mash them in a cullender, (pressing and squeezing them
well;) season with a little pepper and salt, and mix with
them a very small quantity of butter. Setting in the sun
after they are cooked, or on a part of the table upon which
the sun may happen to shine, w.ill give to turnips a singularly
unpleasant taste, and should therefore be avoided.

When turnips are very young, it is customary to serve them
up with about two inches of the green top left on them.

If stewed with meat, they should be sliced or quartered.

Mutton, either boiled or roasted, should always be accom-
panied by turnips.

CARROTS.

WASH and scrape them well. If large cut them into two,
three, or four pieces. Put them into boiling water with a
little salt in it. Full grown carrots will require three hours'

190 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

•

boiling; smaller ones two hours, and young ones an hour.
Try them with a fork, and when they are tender throughout,
take them up and dry them in a cloth. Divide them in pieces
and split them, or cut them into slices.

*

Eat them with melted butter. They should accompany
boiled beef or mutton.

PARSNIPS.

WASH, scrape and split them. Put them into a pot of
boiling water ; add a' little salt, and boil them till quite tender,
which will be in from two to three hours, according to their

7 O

size. Dry them in a cloth when done, and pour melted but-
ter over them in the dish. Serve them up with any sort of
boiled meat, or with salt cod.

Parsnips are very good baked or stewed with meat.

RUSSIAN OR SWEDISH TURNIPS.

THIS turnip (the Ruta Baga) is very large and of a reddish
yellow colour ; they are generally much liked. Take off a
thick paring, cut the turnips into large pieces, or thick slices,
and lay them awhile in cold water. Then boil them gently
about two hours, or till they are quite soft. When done,
drain, squeeze and mash them, and season them with pepper
and salt, and a very little butter. Take care not to set them
ia a part of the table where the sun comes, as it will spoil
lhe taste.

Russian turnips should always be mashed.

VEGETABLES.

SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.

THE green or summer squash is best when the outside is
beginning to turn yellow, as it is then less watery and insipid
' than when younger. Wash them, cut them into pieces, and take
out the seeds. Boil them about three quarters of an hour, or
till quite tender. When done, drain and squeeze them well till
you have pressed out all the water ; mash them with a little
butter, pepper and salt. Then put the squash thus prepared
into a stew-pan, set it on hot coals, and stfr it very frequency
till it becomes dry. Take care not to let it burn.

.WINTER SQUASH, OR CASHAW.

THIS is much finer than the summer squash. It is fit 10
eat in August, and, in a dry warm place, can be kept well all
winter. The colour is a very bright yellow. Pare it, take
out the seeds, cut it in pieces, and stew it slowly till quite
soft, in a very little water. Afterwards drain, squeeze, and
press it well, and mash it with a very little butter, pepper
and salt.

PUMPKIN.

DEEP coloured pumpkins are generally the best. In a dry
warm place they can be kept perfectly good all winter.
WThen you prepare to stew a pumpkin, cut it in half and take
out all the seeds. Then cut it in thick slices, and pare them.
Put it into a pot with a very little water, and stew it gently
for a-n hour, or till soft enough to mash. Then take it out,
drain, and squeeze it till it is as dry as you can get it.

192 DIRECTIONS F0$, COOKING.

Afterwards mash it, adding a little pepper and salt, and a
very little butter.

Pumpkin is frequently stewed with fresh beef or fresh pork.

The water in which pumpkin has been boiled, is said to be
very good to mix bread with, it having a tendency to improve
it in sweetness and to keep it moist.

HOMINY.

WASH the hominy very clean through three or four waters.
Then put it into a pot (allowing two quarts of water to one
quart of hominy) and boil it slowly five hours. When done,
take it up, and drain the liquid from it through a cullender.
Put the hominy into a deep dish, and stir into it a small piece
of fresh butter.

The small grained hominy is boiled in rather less water,
and generally eaten with butter and sugar.

INDIAN CORN.

CORN for boiling should be full grown but young and ten-
der. When the grains become yellow it is too old. Strip it
of the outside leaves and the silk, but let the inner leaves
remain, as they will keep in the sweetness. Put it into a
large pot with plenty of water, and boil it rather fast for
half an hour. When done, drain off the water, and remove
the leaves.

You may either lay the ears on a large flat dish and send
them to table whole, or broken in half; or you may cut all the
corn off the cob, and serve it up in a deep dish, mixed with
butter, pepper and salt,

VKGE TABLES. 193

MOCK OYSTERS OF CORN.

TAKE a dozen and a half ears of large young corn, and
grate all the grains off the cob as fine as possible. Mix with
the grated corn three large table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, the
yolks of six eggs well beaten. Let all be well incorporated
by hard beating.

Have ready in a frying-pan an equal proportion of lard and
fresh butter. Hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and
then put in portions of the mixture as nearly as possible in
shape and size like fried oysters. Fry them brown, and send
them to table hot. They should be near an inch thick.

This is an excellent relish at breakfast, and may be intro-
duced as a side dish at dinner. In. taste it has a singular

o

lesemblance to fried oysters. The corn must be young.

STEWED EGG PLANT.

*

THE purple egg plants are better than the white ones. Put
them whole into a pot with plenty of water, and simmer them
till quite tender. Then take them out, drain them, and
(having peeled off the" skins) cut them up, and mash them
smooth in a deep dish. Mix with them some grated bread,
some powdered sweet marjoram, and a large piece of butter,
adding a pounded nutmeg. Grate a layer of bread over
the top, and put the dish into the oven and brown it. You
must send it to table in the same dish.

Egg plant is sometimes eaten £t dinner, but generally at
breakfast.

TO FRY EGG PLANT.— -Do not pare your egg plants if

they are to be fried, but slice them about half an inch thick,

17

194 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

and lay them an hour or two in salt and water to remove their
strong taste, which to most persons is very unpleasant. Then
take them out, wipe them, and season them with pepper
only. Beat some yolk of egg; and in another dish grate a
sufficiency of bread-crumbs. Have ready in a frying-pan
some lard and butter mixed, and make it boil. Then dip each
slice of egg plant first in the egg, and then in the crumbs, till
both sides are well covered ; and fry them brown, taking care
to have them done all through, as the least rawness renders
them very unpalatable.

STUFFED EGG PLANTS.— Parboil them to take off
their bitterness. Then slit each one down the side, and ex-
tract the seeds. Have ready a stuffing made of grated bread-
crumbs, butter, minced sweet herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg,
and beaten yolk of egg. Fill with it the cavity from whence
you took the seeds, and bake the egg plants in a Dutch oven.
Serve them up with a made gravy poured into the dish.

FRIED CUCUMBERS.

HAVING pared your cucumbers, cut them lengthways into
pieces about as thick as a dollar. Then dry them in a cloth.
Season them with pepper and salt, and sprinkle them thick
with flour. Melt some butter in a frying-pan, and when it
boils, put in the slices of cucumber, and fry them of a light
brown. Send them to table hot.

They make a breakfast dish.

TO DRESS CUCUMBERS RAW — They should be as
fresh from the vine as possible, few vegetables being more

VEGETABLES. 195

unwholesome when long gathered. As soon as they are
brought in lay them in cold water. Just before they are to
go to table take them out, pare them and slice them into a pan
of fresh cold water. When they are all sliced, transfer them
to a deep dish, season them with a little salt and black pepper,
and pour over them some of the best vinegar, to which you
may add a little salad oil. You may mix with them a smalt
quantity of sliced onion ; not to be eaten, but to communicate
a slight flavour of onion to the vinegar.

SALSIFY.

HAVING scraped .the salsify roots, and washed them in cold
water, parboil them. Then take them out, drain them, cut
them into large pieces and fry them in butter.

Salsify is frequently stewed slowly till quite tender, and
then served up with melted butter. Or it may be first boiled,
then grated, and made into cakes to be fried in butter.

Salsify must not be left exposed to the air, or it will turn
blackish.

• ARTICHOKES.

STRIP off the coarse outer leaves, and cut off the stalks
close to the bottom. Wash the artichokes well, arid let them
lie two or three hours in cold water. Put them with theii
heads downward into a pot of boiling water, keeping them
down by a plate floated over them. They must boil steadily
from two to three hours ; take care to replenish the pot
with additional boiling wrater as it is wanted. When they are
tender all through, drain them, and serve them up with melted
butter.

196 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

BEETS.

WASH the beets, but do not scrape or cut them while they
are raw ; for if a knife enters them before they are boiled they
will lose their colour. Boil them from two to three hours,
according to their size. When they are tender all through,
take them up, and scrape off all the outside. If they are
young beets they are best split down and cut into long
pieces, seasoned with pepper, and sent to table with melted
butter. Otherwise you may slice them thin, after they are
quite cold, and pour vinegar over them.

TO STEW BEETS.— Boil them first, and then scrape
and slice them. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of
butter rolled in flour, some boiled onion and parsley chopped
fine, and a little vinegar, salt and pepper. Set the pan on
hot coals, and let the beets stew for a quarter of an hour.

TO BOIL GREEN OR FRENCH BEANS.

THESE beans should be young, tender, and fresh gathered.
Remove the strings with a knife, and take off both ends
of the bean. Then cut them in two or three pieces only;
for if split or cut very small, they become watery and lose
much of their taste; and cannot be well drained. As you
cut them, throw them into a pan of cold water, and let them
lay awhile. Boil them an hour and a halfT They must be
perfectly tender before you take them up. Then drain and
press them well, season them with pepper, and mix into them
a piece of butter.

VEGETAL LES. 197

SCARLET BEANS.— It is not generally known that the

•

pod of the scarlet bean, if green and young, is extremely nice
when cut into three or four pieces and boiled. They will re-
quire near two hours, and must be drained well, and mixed

|

as before mentioned with butter and pepper. If gathered
at the proper time, when the seed is just perceptible, they are
superior to any of the common beans.

LIMA BEANS.

THESE are generally considered the finest of all beans,
and should be gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan
of cold water, and then boil them about two hours, or till they
are quite soft. Drain them well, and add to them some but-
ter and a little pepper.

They are destroyed by the first frost, but can be kept
during the winter, by gathering them on a dry day when full
grown but not the least hard, and putting them in their pods
into a keg. Throw some salt into the bottom of the keg,
and cover jt with a layer of the bean-pods ; then add more
salt, and then another layer of beans, till the keg is full.

•

Press them down with a heavy weight, cover the keg closely,
and keep it in a cool dry place. Before you use them, soak
the pods all night in cold water ; the next day shell them,
and soak the beans till you are ready to boil them.

DRIED BEANS.

WASH them and lay them in soak over night. Early in
the morning put them into a pot with plenty of water, and

boil them slowly till dinner time. They will require seven

17*

198 DIRECTIONS FOR COOK I NG.

or eight hours to be sufficiently done. Then take them off,
put them into a sieve, and strain off the liquid.

Send the beans to table in a deep dish, seasoned with pep-
per, and having a piece of butter mixed with them.

GREEN PEAS.

•

GREEN peas are unfit for eating after they become hard and
yellowish ; but they are better when nearly full grown than
when very small and young. They should be gathered as
short a time as possible before they are cooked, and laid ia
cold water as soon as they are shelled. They will require
about an hour to boil soft. When quite done, drain them,
mix with them a piece of butter, and add a little pepper.

Peas may be greatly improved b'y boiling with them two
or three lumps of loaf-sugar, and a sprig of mint to be taken
out before they are dished. This is an English wray of cook-
ing green peas, and is to most tastes a very good one.

TO BOIL ONIONS.

TAKE off the tops and tails, and the thin outer skin ; but no
more lest the onions should go to pieces. Lay them on
the bottom of a pan which is broad enough to contain them
without piling one on another ; just cover them with water,
and let them simmer slowly till theyare tender all through,
Lut not till they break.

Serve them up with melted butter.

TO ROAST ONIONS Onions are best when parboiled

before roasting. Take large onions, place them on a hot

VEGETABLES. 199

hearth and roast them before the fire in their skins, turning
them as they require it. Then peel them, send them to table
whole, and eat them with butter and salt.

•

TO FRY ONIONS.— Peel, slice them, and fry them
brown in butter or nice dripping.

Onions should be kept in a very dry place, as dampness
injures them.

TO BOIL ASPARAGUS.

LARGE or full grown asparagus is the best. Before you
begin to --prepare it for cooking, set on the fire a pot with
plenty of water, and sprinkle into it a handful of salt. Your
asparagus should be all of the same size. Scrape the stalks
till they are perfectly nice and white ; cut them all of equal
length, and short, so as to leave them but two or three inches
below the green part. To serve up asparagus with long
stalks is now becoming obsolete. As you scrape them, throw

r

them into a pan of cold water. Then tie them up in small
bundles with bass or tape* as twine will cut them to pieces.
When the water is boiling fast, put in the asparagus, and
boil it an hour ; if old it will require an hour and a quarter.
When it is nearly done boiling, toast a large slice of bread
sufficient to cover the dish (first cutting off the crust) and dip
it into the asparagus water in the pot. Lay it in a dish,
and, having drained the asparagus, place it on the toast with
all the heads pointed inwards towards the centre, and the
stalks spreading outwards. Serve up melted butter with it.

SEA KALE. — Sea kale is prepared, boiled, and served up
in the same manner as asparagus.

200 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

POKE.' — The young stalks and leaves of the poke-berry
plant when quite small and first beginning to sprout up from
the ground in the spring, are by most persons considered
very nice, and are frequently brought to market. If the least
too old they acquire a strong taste, and should not be eaten,
as they then become unwholesome. They are in a proper
state when the part of the stalk nearest to the ground is not
thicker than small asparagus. Scrape the stalks, (letting the
leaves remain on them,) and throw them into cold water.
Then tie up the poke in bundles, put it into a pot that has
plenty of boiling water, and let it boil fast an hoar at least
Serve it up with or without toast, and send melted butter
with it in a boat.

STEWED TO MAT AS.

PEEL your tomatas, cut them in half and squeeze out the
seeds. Then put them into a stew-pan without any water,
and add to them cayenne and salt to your taste, some grated
bread, a little minced onion, and some powdered mace. Stew
them slowly till they are first dissolved and then dry.

BAKED TOMATAS.— Peel some large fine tomatas, cut
them up, and take out the seeds. Then put them into a deep
dish in alternate layers with grated bread-crumbs, and a very
little butter in small bits. There must be a large proportion
of bread-crumbs. Season the whole with a little salt, and
cayenne pepper. Set it in an oven, and bake it. In cooking
tomatas, take care not to have them too liquid. They will
not lose their raw taste in less than three hours' cookincr.

VEGETABLES. 201

*

MUSHROOMS.

GOOD mushrooms are only found in clear open fields where
the air is pure and unconfined. Those that grow in low damp
ground, or in shady places, are always poisonous. Mush-
rooms of the proper sort generally appear in August and
September, after a heavy dew or a misty night. They may
be known by their being of a pale pink or salmon colour on
the gills or under side, while the tqp is of a dull pearl-
coloured white ; and by their growing only in open places.
When they are a day old, or a few hours after they are
gathered, the reddish colour changes to brown.

The poisonous or false mushrooms are of various colours,
sometimes of a bright yellow or scarlet all over ; sometimes
entirely of a chalky white, stalk, top, and gills.

It is easy to detect a bad mushroom if all are quite fresh ;
but after being gathered a few hours the colours change, so
that unpractised persons frequently mistake them.

It is said that if you boil an onion among mushrooms the
onion will turn of a bluish black when there is a bad one
among them. Of course, the whole should then be thrown
into the fire. If in stirring mushrooms, the colour of the
silver spoon is changed, it is also most prudent to destroy
them all.

TO STEW MUSHROOMS.— For this purpose the small
button mushrooms are best. Wash them clean, peel off the
skin, and cut off the stalks. Put the trimmings into a small
sauce-pan with just enough water to keep them from burning,
and covering them closely, let them stew a quarter of an
hour. Then strain the liquor, and having put the mushrooms
into a clean sauce-pan, (a silver one, or one lined with porco-

202 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

lain,) add the liquid to them with a little nutmeg1, pepper and
salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Stew them fifteen
minutes, and just before you take them up, stir in a very
little cream or rich milk and some beaten yolk of egg. Serve
them hot. While they are cooking, keep the pan as closely
covered as possible ; shaking it round frequently.

If you wish to have the full taste of the mushroom only,
after washing, trimming, and peeling them, put them into a
stew-pan with a little salt and no water. Set them on coals,
and stew them slowly till tender, adding nothing to them but
a little butter rolled in flour, or else a little cream. Be sure
to keep the pan well covered.

BROILED MUSHROOMS.— For this purpose take large
mushrooms, and be careful to have them freshly gathered.
Peel them, score the under side, and cut off the stems. Lay
them one by one in an earthen pan, brushing them over with
sweet oil or oiled butter, and sprinkling each with a little
pepper and salt. Cover them closely, and let them set for
about an hour and a half. Then place them on a gridiron
over clear hot coals, and broil them on both sides.

Make a gravy for them of their trimmings stewed in a
very little milk, strained and thickened with a beaten egg
stirred in just before it goes to table.

BOILED RICE.

PICK your rice clean, and wash it in two cold waters, not
draining off the last water till you are ready to put the rice
on the fire. Prepare a sauce-pan of water with a little salt
in it, and when it boils, sprinkle in the rice. Boil it hard

VEGETABLES. 203

twenty minutes, keeping it covered. Then' take it from tho
lire, and pour off the water. Afterwards set the sauce-pan in
the chimney corner with the lid off, while you are dishing
your dinner, to allow the rice to dry, and the grains to
separate.

Rice, if properly boiled, should be soft and white, and
every grain ought to stand alone. If badly managed, it will,
when brought to table, be a grayish watery mass.

In most southern families, rice is boiled every day for the
dinner table, and eaten with the meat and poultry.

The above is a Carolina receipt.

TO DRESS LETTUCE AS SALAD.

STRIP off the outer leaves, wash the lettuce, split it in half,
and lay it in cold water till dinner time. Then drain it and
put it into a salad dish. Have ready two eggs boiled hard,
(which they will be in ten minutes,) and laid in a basin
of cold water for five minutes to prevent the whites from
turning blue. Cut them in half and lay them on the lettuce.

Put the yolks of the eggs on a large plate, and with a
wooden spoon mash them smooth, mixing with them a
table-spoonful of water, and two table-spoonfuls of sweet
oil. Then -add, by degrees, a salt-spoonful of salt, a tea-
spoonful of mustard, and a tea-spoonful of powdered loaf-
sugar. When these are all smoothly united, add very gra-
dually three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. The lettuce having
been cut up fine on another plate, put it to the dressing, and
mix it well.

If you have the dressing for salad made before dinner, put
it into the bottom of the salad dish; then (having cut it up)

204 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

lay the salad upon it, and let it rest till it is to be eaten, as
stirring it will injure it.

You may decorate the top of the salad with slices of red
beet, and with the hard white of the eggs cut into rings.

CELERY. — Scrape and wash it well, and let it lie in
cold water till shortly before it goes to table ; then dry it in a
cloth, trim it, and split down the stalks almost to the bottom,
leaving on a few green leaves. Send it to table in a celery
glass, and eat it with salt only ; or chop it fine, and make a
salad dressing for it.

RADISHES. — To prepare radishes for eating, wash them
and lay them in clean cold water as soon as they are brought
in. Shortly before they go to table, scrape off the thin outside
skin, trim the sharp end, cut off the leaves at the top, leaving
the stalks about an inch long, and put them on a small dish.
Eat them with salt.

Radishes should not be eaten the day after they are pulled,
as they are extremely unwholesome if not quite fresh.

The thick white radishes, after being scraped and trimmed,
should be split or cleft in four, half way down from the top.

TO ROAST CHESTNUTS.

THE large Spanish chestnuts are the best for roasting. Cut
a slit in the shell of every one to prevent their bursting
When hot. Put them into a pan, and set them over a char-
coal furnace till they are thoroughly roasted ; stirring them
up frequently and taking care not to let them burn. "When

VEGETABLES. 205

they are done, peel off the shells, and send the chestnuts to
table wrapped up in a napkin to keep them warm.

Chestnuts should always be roasted or boiled before they
are eaten.

GROUND-NUTS. — These nuts are never eaten raw. Put
them, with their shells on, into an iron pan, and set them in
an oven ; or you may. do them in a skillet on hot coals. A
large quantity may be roasted in an iron pot over the fire-
Stir them frequently, taking one out from time to time, and
•breaking it to try if they are done.

CORN AND BEANS WITH PORK.

TAKE a good piece of pork, either salt or fresh. Boil it by
itself till quite tender. Boil also the corn and beans sepa-
rately. Either dried or green beans will do. If string-beans,
they must be cut in three. When the corn is well boiled,
cut it from the cob, and mix it with the boiled beajis. Put it
into a pot with the boiled pork, and barely sufficient water to
cover it. Season with pepper, and stew the whole together
till nearly dry.

TO KEEP OCHRAS AND TOMATOS.— Take ochras
when they first come in season; slice them thin; with a large
needle run a strong thread through the slices, and hang them
up in your store-room in festoons. In winter, use them for
soup ; boiling them till quite dissolved.

Having filled a jar two-thirds with whole tomatos, fill it
quite up with good lard; covering it closely. When wanted
for use, take them out from under the lard, and wash them

in hot water.

18

206

EGGS, &c.

TO KEEP EGGS.

TBERE is no infallible mode of ascertaining the freshness
of an egg before you break rt, but unless an egg is perfectly
good, it is unfit for any purpose whatever, and will spoil what-
ever it is mixed with. You may judge with tolerable accu-
racy of the state of an egg by holding it against the sun or
the candle, and if the yolk, as you see it through the shell,
appears round, and the white thin and clear, it is most pro-
bably a good one ; but if the yolk looks broken, and the
white thick and cloudy, the egg is certainly bad. You may
try the freshness of eggs by putting them into a pan of cold
water. Those that sink the soonest are the freshest ; those
that are stale or addled will float on the surface.

There are various ways of preserving eggs. To keep them
merely for plain boiling, you may parboil them for one
minute, and then bury them in powdered charcoal with their

•

small ends downward. They will keep a few days in a jar of
salt ; but do not afterwards use the salt in which they have
been immersed.

They are frequently preserved for two or three months
by greasing them all over, when quite fresh, with melted
mutton suet, and then wedging them close together (the small
end downwards) in a box of bran, layer above layer ; the
box must be closely 'covered. Charcoal is better than bran.

Another way (and a very good one) is to put some lime in
a large vessel, and slack it with boiling water, till it is of the
consistence of thin cream ; you may allow a gallon of water

EGGS, ETC. 207

to a pound of lime. When it is cold, pour it off into a large
stone jar, put in the eggs, and cover the jar closely. See that
the eggs are always well covered with the lime-water, and
lest they should break, avoid moving the jar. If you have
hens of your own, keep a jar of lime-water always ready,
and put in the eggs as they are brought in from the nests.
Jars that hold about six quarts are the most convenient.
It will be well to renew the lime-water occasionally.

TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST.

THE fresher they are the longer time they will require for
boiling. If you wish them quite soft, put them into a sauce-
pan of water that is boiling hard at the moment, and let them
remain in it five minutes. The longer they boil the harder
they will be. In ten minutes' fast boiling they will be hard
enough for salad.

If you use one of the tin egg-boilers that are placed on the
table, see that the water is boiling hard at the time you put in
the eggs. When they have been in about four or five minutes,
take them out, pour off the water, and replace it by some more
that is boiling hard ; as, from the coldness of the eggs having
chilled the first water, they will not otherwise be done enough.
The boiler may then be placed on the table, (keeping the lid
closed,) and in a few minutes more' they will be sufficiently
cooked to be wholesome.

208 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TO POACH EGGS.

POUR some boiling water out of a tea-kettle through a clean
cloth spread over the top of a broad stew-pan ; for by ob-
serving this process the eggs will be nicer and more easily
done than when its impurities remain in the water. Set the
pan with the strained water on hot coals, and when it boils,
break each egg separately into a saucer. Remove the pan
from the fire, and slip the eggs one by one into the surface of
the water. Let the pan stand till the white of the eggs is
set; then place it again on the coals, and as soon as the
water boils again, the eggs will be sufficiently done. Take
them out carefully with an egg-slice, and trim off all the
ragged edges from the white, which should thinly cover the
yolk. Have ready some thin slices of buttered toast with
the crust cut off. Lay them in the bottom of the dish, wTith a
poached egg on each slice of toast, and send them to the break-
fast table.

FRICASSEED EGGS.

TAKE a dozen eggs, and boil them six or seven minutes, or
till they are just hard enough to peel and slice without break-
ing. Then put them into a pan of cold water while you pre-
pare some grated bread-crumbs, (seasoned with pepper, salt
and nutmeg,) and beat the yolks of two or three raw eggs
very light. Take the boiled eggs out of the water, and
having peeled off the shells, slice the eggs, dust a little flour
over them, and dip them first into the beaten egg, and then into
the bread-crumbs so as to cover them well on both sides.
Have ready in a frying-pan some boiling lard ; put the sliced
eggs into it, and fry them on both sides. Serve them up at

EGGS, ETC. 209

the breakfast table, garnished with small sprigs of parsley
that has been fried in the same lard after the eggs were taken
out.

PLAIN OMELET.

TAKE six eggs, leaving out the whites of two. Beat them
very light, and strain them through a sieve. Add pepper and
salt to your taste. Divide two oifnces of fresh butler into
little bits, and put it into the egg. Have ready a quarter of a
pound of butter in a frying-pan, or a flat stew-pan. Place it
on hot coals, and have the butter boiling when you put in the
beaten egg. Fry it gently till of a light brown on the under
side. Do not turn it while cooking as it will do better with-
out. You may brown the top by holding a hot shovel over it.
When done, lay it in the dish, double it in half, and stick
sprigs of curled parsley over it.

You may flavour the omelet by mixing with the beaten
egg some parsley or sweet herbs minced fine, some chopped
celery, or chopped onion, allowing two moderate sized onions
to an omelet of six eggs. Or what is still better, it may be
seasoned with veal kidney or sweet-bread minced ; with cold
ham shred as fine as possible ; or with minced oysters,
(the hard part omitted,) with tops of asparagus (that has
been previously boiled) cut into small pieces.

You should have one of the pans that are made purposely
for omelets.

AN OMELETTE SOUFFLE.

BREAK eight eggs, separate the whites from the yolks,
and strain them. Put the whites into one pan, and the yolks

into another, and beat them separately with rods till the yolka

18*

210 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

are very thick and smooth, and the whites a stiff froth that
will stand alone. Then add gradually to the yolks, three
quarters of a pound of the finest powdered loaf-sugar, ,and
orange-flower water or lemon-juice to your taste. Next stir
the whites lightly into the yolks. Butter a deep pan or dish
(that has been previously heated) and pour the mixture rapidly
into it. Set it in a Dutch oven with coals under it, and on
the top, and bake it five minutes. If properly beaten and
mixed, and carefully baked, it will rise very high. Send it
immediately to table, or it will fall and flatten.

Do not begin to make an omelette souffle till the company
at table have commenced their dinner, that it may be ready to
serve up just in time, immediately on the removal of the
meats. The whole must be accomplished as quickly as pos-
sible. Send it round with a spoon.

If you live in a large town, the safest way of avoiding
a failure in an omelette souffle is to hire a French cook to
come to your kitchen with his own utensils and ingredients,
and make and bake it himself, while th£ first part of the
dinner is progressing in the dining-room.
. An omelette souffle is a very nice and delicate thing when
properly managed ; "but if flat and heavy, it should not be
brought to table. If well made, you may turn it out on a
dish.

TO DRESS MACCAKONI.

HAVE ready a pot of boiling water. Throw a little salt into
it, and then by slow degrees put in a pound of the maccaroni,
a little at a time. Keep stirring it gently, and continue to do
so very often while boiling. Take care to keep it well
covered with water. Have ready a kettle of boiling water to

EGGS, ETC. 211

replenish the maccaroni pot if it should be in danger of getting
too dry. In about twenty minutes it will be done. It must
be yite soft, but it must not boil long enough to break.

When the maccaroni has boiled sufficiently, pour in imme-
diately a little cold water, and let it stand a few minutes,
keeping it covered.

Grate half a pound of Parmesan cheese into a deep diah,
and scatter over it a few small bits of butter. Then with a
skimmer that is perforated with holes, commence taking up
the maccaroni, (draining tT well,) and spread a layer of it
over the cheese and butter. Spread over it another layer of
grated cheese and butter, and then a layer of maccaroni, and
BO on till your dish is full ; having a layer of maccaroni on
the top, over which spread some butter without cheese.
Cover the dish, and set it in an oven for half an hour. It will
then be ready to send to table.

You may grate some nutmeg over each layer of maccaroni.

Allow half a pound of butter to a pound of maccaroni and
half a pound of cheese.

ANOTHER WAY.

FIRST put on the maccaroni in a very little water. Let it
come to a hard boil, and then drain off the water. Put it on
again with milk instead of water, and a large lump of butter.
Boil it till quite tender all through. Then, while hot, mix in
a little cream, and add some sugar and nutmeg, or powdered
cinnamon.

212

PICKLING.

GENERAL REMARKS.
NEVER on any consideration use brass, copper, or bell-metal

•

kettles for pickling ; the verdigris produced in them by the
vinegar being of a most poisonous nature. Kettles lined with
porcelain are the best, but if you cannot procure them, block
tin may be substituted. Iron is apt to discolour any acid that
is boiled in it.

Vinegar for pickles should always be of the best cider kind.
In putting away pickles, use stone or glass jars. The lead
which is an ingredient in the glazing of common earthen-
ware, is rendered very pernicious by the action of the vine-
gar. Have a large wooden spoon and a fork, for the express
purpose of taking pickles out of the jar when you want them
for the table. See that, while in the jar, they are always
completely covered writh vinegar. If you discern in them
any symptoms of not keeping well, do them over again in
fresh vinegar and spice.

Vinegar for pickles should only boil five or six minutes.

The jars should be stopped with large flat corks, fitting
closely, and having a leather or a round piece of oil-cloth tied

r

over the cork.

It is a good rule to have two-thirds of the jar filled with
pickles, and one-third with vinegar.

Alum is very useful in extracting the salt taste from pickles,
and in making them firm and crisp. A very small quantity
is sufficient. Too much will spoil them.

PICKLING. 213

In greening1 pickles keep them very closely covered, so
that none of the steam majT escape ; as its retention promotes
their greenness and prevents the flavour from evaporating.

Vinegar -and spice for pickles should be boiled but a few
minutes. Too much boiling takes away the strength.

TO PIC-KLE CUCUMBERS.

CUCUMBERS for pickling should be very small, and as free
from spots as possible. Make a brine of salt and water strong
enough to bear an egg. Pour it over your cucumber?, cover
them with fresh cabbage leaves, and let them stand for a week,
or till they are quite yellow, stirring them at least twice a
day. When they are perfectly yellow, pour off the water.
Take a porcelain kettle, and cover the bottom and sides with
fresh vine leaves. Put in the cucumbers (with a small piece of
alum) and cover them closely with vine leaves all over the top,
and then with a dish or cloth to keep in the steam. Fill up the
kettle with clear water, and hang it over the fire when dinner
is done, but not where there is a blaze. The fire under
the kettle must be kept very moderate. The water must not
boil, or be too hot to bear your hand in. Keep them over the
fire in a slow heat till next morning. If they are not then of
a fine green, repeat the process. When they are well greened,
take them out of the kettle, drain them on a sieve, and put
them into a clean stone jar. Boil for five or six minutes suf-
ficient of the best vinegar to cover the cucumbers well ; put-
ting into the kettle a thin muslin bag filled with cloves, mace,
and mustard seed. Pour the vinegar scalding hot into the
jar of pickles, which should be secured with a large flat
cork, and an oil-cloth or leather cover tied over it.

214 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Another way to green pickles is to cover them with vine

•

leaves or cabbage leaves, and to keep them on a warm hearth,
pouring boiling water on them five or six times a day ; renew-
ing the water as soon as it becomes cold.

In proportioning the spice to the vinegar, allow to every
two quarts, an ounce of mace, two dozen cloves, and two
ounces of mustard seed. You may leave the muslin bag,
with the spice, for about a week in the pickle jar to heighten
the flavour, if you think it necessary.

GREEN PEPPERS— May be done in the same manner
as cucumbers, only extracting the seeds before you put the
pickles into the salt and water. Do not put peppers into the
same jar with cucumbers, as the former will destroy the-latter.

GHERKINS. — The gherkin is a small thick dfal-shaped
species of cucumber with a hairy or prickly surface, and is
cultivated solely for pickling. It is customary to let the
stems remain on them. Wipe them dry, put them into a
broad stone jar, and scald them five or six times in the course
of the day with salt and water strong enough to bear an egg,
and let them set all night. This will make them yellow.
Next day, having drained them from the salt and water, throw
it out, wipe them dry, put them into a clean vessel (with a
little piece of alum,) and scald them with boiling vinegar and
water, (half and half of each,) repeating it frequently during
the day till they are green. Keep them as closely covered as
possible. Then put them away in stone jars, mixing among
them whole mace and sliced ginger to your taste. Fill up
with cold vinegar, and add a little alum, allowing to every
hundred gherkins a piece about the size of a shelled almond.
The alum will make them firm and crisp.

PICKLING. 215

RADISH PODS.— Gather sprigs or bunches of radish
pods while they are young and tender, but let the pods re-
main on the sprigs ; it not being the custom to pick them off
Put them into strong salt and water, and let them stand two
days. Then drain and wipe them and put them into a clean
stone jar. Boil an equal quantity of vinegar and water. Pour it
over the radish pods while hot, and cover them closely to keep
in the steam. Repeat this frequently through the day till they
are very green. Then pour off the vinegar and water, and
boil for five minutes some very good vinegar, with a little
bit of alum, and pour it over them. Put them into a stone
jar, (and having added some whole mace, wiiole pepper, a
little tumeric and a little sweet oil,) cork it closely, and tie
over it a leather or oil-cloth.

GREEN BEANS. — Take young green or French beans;
string them, but do not cut them in pieces. Put them in salt
and water for two days, stirring them frequently. Then put
them into a kettle with vine or cabbage leaves under, over,
and all round them, (adding a little piece of alum.) Cover
them closely to keep in the steam, and let them hang over a
slow fire till they are a fine green.

Having drained them in a sieve, make for them a pickle of
cider vinegar, and boil in it for five minutes, some mace,
whole pepper, and sliced ginger tied up in a thin muslin bag.
Pour it hot upon the beans, put them into a stone jar, and tie
them up.

I ^ M

PARSLEY. — Make a brine of salt and water strong enough
to bear an egg, and throw into it a large quantity of curled
parsley tied up in little bunches with a thread. After it
has stood three days (stirring it frequently) take it out

216 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

drain it well, and lay it for three days in cold spring or pump-
water, changing the water daily. Then scald it in hard

s*

water, and hang it, well covered^ over a slow fire till it becomes
green. Afterwards take it out, and drain and press it till
quite dry.

Boil for five minutes a quart of cider vinegar with a small
bit of alum, a few blades of mace, a sliced nutmeg, and a few
slips of horseradish. Pour it on the parsley, and put it away
in a stone jar.

MANGOES.

TAKE very young oval shaped musk-melons. Cut a round
piece out of the top or side of each, (saving the piece to put
on again,) and extract the seeds. Then (having tied on the
pieces with packthread) put them into strong salt and water
for two days. Afterwards drain and wipe them, put them
into a kettle with vine leaves or cabbage leaves under and
over them, and a little piece of alum, and hang them on a slow
fire to green; keeping them closely covered to retain the

steam, which will greatly accelerate the greening. When
i
they are quite green, have ready the stuffing, which must be a

mixture of scraped horseradish, white mustard seed, mace
and nutmeg pounded, race ginger cut small, pepper, tumeric
and sweet oil. Fill your mangoes with this mixture, putting
a small clove of garlic into each, and replacing the pieces at
the openings ; tie them with a packthread crossing backwards
and forwards round the mango. Put them into stone jars,
pour boiling vinegar over them, and cover them well. Before
you put them on the table remove the packthread.

PICKLING. 2J7

NASTURTIANS.— Have ready a stone or glass jar of
the best cold vinegar. Take the green seeds of the nastur-
tian after the flower has gone off. They should be full-grown
but not old. Pick off the stems, and put the seeds into the
vinegar. No other preparation is necessary, and they will
keep a year with nothing more than sufficient cold vinegar to
cover them. With boiled mutton they are an excellent sub>
stitute for capers.

MORELLA CHERRIES.— See that all your cherries are

•

perfect. Remove the stems, and put the cherries into a jar or
glass with sufficient vinegar to cover them well. They will
keep perfectly in a cool dry place.

They are very good, always retaining the taste of the
cherry. If you cannot procure morellas, the large red pie-*
cherries may be substituted.

PEACHES. — Take fine large peaches (either cling or
free stones) that are not too ripe. Wipe off the down with a
clean flannel, and put the peaches wrhole into a stone jar.
Cover them with cold vinegar of the best kind, in which you
have dissolved a little of salt, allowing a tea -spoonful to a
quart of vinegar. Put a cork in the jar and tie leather or oil-
cloth over it.

Plums and grapes may be pickled thus in cold vinegar,
but without salt.

BARBERRIES. — Have ready a jar of cold vinegar, and
put into it ripe barberries in bunches. They make a pretty
garnish for the edges of dishes.

19

218 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TO PICKLE GREEN PEPPERS.

THE bell pepper is the best for pickling, and should be
gathered when quite young. Slit one side, and carefully
take out the core, so as not to injure the shell of the pepper.
Then put them into boiling salt and water, changing the
water every day for one week, and keeping them closely
covered in a warm place near the fire. Stir them several
times a day. They will first become yellow, and then green.
When they are a fine green put them into a jar, and pour cold
vinegar over them, adding a small piece of alum.

They require no spice.

You may stuff the peppers as you do mangoes.

TO PICKEE BUTTERNUTS.

THESE nuts are in the best state for pickling when the
shell is soft, and w hen they are so young that the outer skin
can be penetrated by the head of a pin. They should be
gathered when the sun is hot upon them.

If you have a large quantity, the easiest way to prepare
them for pickling is to put them into a tub with sufficient
lye to cover them, and to stir and rub them about with a
hickory broom till they a*e clean and smooth on the outside.
This is much less trouble than scraping them, and is not so
likely to injure the nuts. Another method is to scald them,
and then to rub off the outer skin. Put the nuts into strong
salt and water for one week; changing the water every other
day, and keeping them closely covered from the air. Then
drain and wipe them, (piercing each nut through in
several places with a large needle,) and prepare the pickle as
follows: — For a hundred large nuts, take of black pepper

PICKLING. 219

and ginger root of each an ounce ; and of cloves, mace and
nutmeg of each a half ounce. Pound all the spices to pow-
der, and mix them well together, adding two large spoonfuls
of mustard seed. Put the nuts into jars, (having first stuck
each of them through in several places with a large needle,)
strewing the powdered seasoning between every layer of nuts.
Boil for five minutes a gallon of the very best cider vinegar,
and pour it boiling hot upon the nuts. Secure the jars closely
with corks and leathers. You may begin to eat the nuts in
a fortnight.

Walnuts may be pickled in the same manner.

TO PICKLE WALNUTS BLACK.

THE walnuts should be gathered while young and soft, (so
that you can easily run a pin through them,) and when the
sun is upon them. Rub them with a coarse flannel or tow
cloth to get off the fur of the outside. Mix salt and water
strong enough to bear an egg, and let them lie in it a week,
(changing it every two days,) and stirring them frequently.
Then take them out, drain them, spread them on large dishes,
and expose them to the air about ten minutes, which will
cause them to blacken the sooner. Scald them in boiling-
water, (but do not let them lie in it,) and then rub them with
a coarse woollen cloth, and pierce every one through in several
places with a large needle, (that the pickle may penetrate
them thoroughly.) Put them into stone jars, and prepare the
spice and vinegar. To a hundred walnuts allow a gallon of
vinegar, an ounce of cloves, an ounce of allspice, an ounce of
black pepper, half an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of
nutmeg. Boil the spice in the vinegar for 'fifteen minutes,

220 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

then strain the vinegar, and pour it boiling hot over the wal-
nuts. Tie up in a thin muslin rag, a tea-cupful of mustard
seed, and a large table-spoonful of scraped horseradish, and
put it into the jars with the walnuts. Cover them closely
with corks and leathers.

Another way of pickling walnuts black, is (after preparing
them as above) to put them into jars with the spices pounded
and strewed among them, and then to pour over them strong
cold vinegar.

WALNUTS PICKLED WHITE.— Take large young
walnuts while their shells are quite soft so that you can stick
the head of a pin into them. Pare them very thin till the
white appears ; and as you do them, throw them into spring
or pump water in which some salt has been dissolved. Let
them stand in that water six hours, with a thin board upon
them to keep them down under the water. Fill a porcelain
kettle with fresh spring water, and set it over a clear fire,
or on a charcoal furnace. Put the walnuts into the kettle,
cover it, and let them simmer (but not boil) for about ten
minutes. Then have ready a vessel with cold spring water
and salt, and put your nuts into it, taking them out of the
kettle with a wooden ladle. Let them stand in the cold salt
and water for a quarter of an hour, with the board keeping
them down as before; for if they rise above the liquor, or are
exposed to the air, they will be discoloured. Then take them
out, and lay them on a cloth covered with another, till they
are quite dry. Afterwards rub t]iem carefully with a soft
flannel, and put them into a stone jar; laying among them
blades of mace, and sliced nutmeg, but no dark-coloured
spice. Pour over them the very best vinegar, and put on
the top a table-spoonful of sweet oil.

PICKLING. 221

WALNUTS PICKLED GREEN.— Gather them while
the shells are very soft, and rub them all with a flannel.
Then wrap them singly in vine leaves, lay a few vine leaves
in the bottom of a large stone jar, put in the walnuts, (seeing
that each of them is well wrapped up so as not to touch
one another,) and cover them with a thick layer of leaves.

Fill up the jar with strong vinegar, cover it closely, and let

.
it stand three weeks. Then pour off the vinegar, take out the

walnuts, renew all the vine leaves, fill up with fresh vinegar,
and let them stand three weeks longer. Then again pour off
the vinegar, and renew the vine leaves. This time take the
best cider vinegar ; put salt in it till it will bear an e^sr,
and add to it mace, sliced nutmeg, and scraped horse-radish, in
the proportion of an ounce of each and a gallon of vinegar to
a hundred walnuts. Boil the spice and vinegar about ten
minutes, and then pour it hot on the walnuts. Cover the jar
closely with a cork and leather, and set it away, leaving the
vine leaves with the walnuts. When you take any out for
use, disturb the others as little as possible, and do not put
back again any that may be left.

You may pickle butternuts green in the same mannej.

TO PICKLE ONIONS.

TAKE very small onions, and with a sharp knife cut off
the stems as close as possible, and peel off the outer skin.
Then put them into salt and water, and let them stand in the
brine for six days ; stirring them daily, and changing the salt
and water every two days. See that they are closely covered.
Then put the onions into jars, and give them a scald in boiling

salt and water. Let them stand till they are cold ; then drain

19*

222 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

them on a sieve, wipe them, stick a clove in the top of each,
and put them into wide-mouthed bottles ; dispersing among
them some blades of mace and slices of ginger or nutmeg. Fill
up the bottles with the best cider vinegar, and put at the
top a large spoonful of salad oik Cork the bottles well.

ONIONS PICKLED WHITE. —Peel some very small
white onions, and lay them for three days in salt and water,
changing the water every day. Then wipe them, and put
them into a porcelain kettle with equal quantities of milk and
water, sufficient to cover them well. Simmer them over a
slow fire, but when just ready to boil take them off, and drain
and dry them, and put them into wide-mouthed glass" bottles ;
interspersing them with blades of mace. Boil a sufficient
quantity of the best cider vinegar to cover them and
rill up the bottles, adding to it a little salt ; and when it is
cold, pour it into the bottles of onions. At the top of each
bottle put a spoonful of sweet oil. Set them away closely
corked.

' TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS WHITE.

•

TAKE small fresh-gathered button mushrooms, peel them
carefully with a penknife, and cut off the stems ; throwing the
mushrooms into salt and water as you do them. Then put
them into a porcelain skillet of fresh water, cover it closely,
and set it over a quick fire. Boil it as fast as possible for seven
or eight minutes, not more. Take out the mushrooms, drain
them, and spread them on a clean board, \vith the bottom or
hollow side of each mushroom turned downwards. Do this
as quickly as possible, and immediately, while they are hot,
sprinkle them over with salt. When they are cold, put them

PICKLING. 223

into a glass jar with slight layers of mace and sliced ginger.
Fill up the jar with cold cider vinegar. Put a spoonful of
sweet oil on the top of each jar, and cork it closely.

MUSHROOMS PICKLED BROWN— Take a quart of
large mushrooms and (having trimmed off the stalks) rub
them with a flannel cloth dipped in salt. Then lay them in
a pan of allegar or ale vinegar, for a quarter of an hour, and
wash them about in it. Then put them into a sauce-pan with
a quart of allegar, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same
of allspice and whole pepper, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Set
the pan over coals, and let the mushrooms stew slowly for

•

ten minutes, keeping the pan well covered. Then take them
off, let them get cold by degrees, and put them into smaJl
bottles with the allegar strained from the spice and poured
upon them.

It will be prudent to boil an onion with the mushrooms,

and if it turns black or blueish, you may infer that Iliere is a

noisonous one among them ; and they should therefore He

.~Gvrn awav -Stir them f^r the game leasoa, ?ritn a silver

spoon.

TO PICKLE TOMATAS.

TAKE a peck of tomatas, (the small round ones are best for
pickling,) and prick every one with a fork. Put them into a
broad stone or earthen vessel, and sprinkle salt between every
layer of tomatas. Cover them, and let them remain two
days in the salt. Then put them into vinegar and water
mixed in equal quantities, half and half, and keep them in it
twenty-four hours to draw out the saltness. There must bo
sufficient of the liquid to cover the tomatas well.

224 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

To a peck of tomatas allow a bottle of mustard, half an
ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of pepper, with a dozen
onions sliced thin. Pack the tomatas in a stone jar, placing
the spices and onions alternately with the layers of tomatas.
Put them in till the jar is two-thirds full. Then fill it up
with strong cold vinegar, and stop it closely. The pickles
will be fit to eat in a fortnight.

If you do not like onions, substitute for them a larger
quantity of spice.

TOM AT A SOY. — For this purpose you must have the
best and ripest tomatas, and they must be gathered on a dry
day. Do not peel them, but merely cut them into slices.
Having strewed some salt over the bottom of a tub, put in the
tomatas in layers; sprinkling between each layer (which
should be about two inches in thickness) a handful of salt.
Repeat this till you have put in eight quarts or one peck of
tomatas. Cover the tub and let it set for three days. Then
early in the morning, put the tomatas into a large porcelain
kettle, and boil it slowly and steadily till ten at night, fre-
quently mashing and stirring the tomatas. Then put it out
to cool. Next morning strain and press it through a sieve,
and when no more liquid will pass through, put it into a clean
kettle with two ounces of cloves, one ounce of mace, two
ounces of black pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of cayenne,
all powdered.

Again let it boil slowly and steadily all day, and put it to
cool in the evening in a large pan. Cover it, and let it set
H!! night. Next day put it into small bottles, securing the
corks by dipping them in melted rosin, and tying leathers
over them.

If made exactly according to these directions, and slowly

PIcfeLING. 225

and thoroughly boiled, it will keep for years in a cool dry
place, and may be used for many purposes when fresh tomatas
are not to be had.

TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS.

TAKE the whitest and closest full-grown cauliflowers ; cut
off the thick stalk, and split the blossom or flower part into
eight or ten pieces. Spread them on a large dish, sprinkle

%.

them with salt, and let them stand twenty-four hours. Then
wash ofT the salt, drain them, put them into a broad flat jar 01
pan, scald them with salt and water, (allowing a quarter of a
pound of salt to a quart of water,) cover them closely and let
them stand in the brine till next day. Afterwards drain them
in a hair sieve, and spread them on a cloth in a warm place
to dry for a day and a night. Then put them carefully, piece
by piece, into clean broad jars -and pour over them a pickle
which has been prepared as follows : — Mix together three
ounces of coriander seed, three ounces of turmeric, one ounce
of mustard seed, and one ounce of ginger. Pound the whole
in a mortar to a fine powder. Put it into three quarts of the
very best cider vinegar, set it by the side of the fire in a stone
jar, and let it infuse three days. These are the proportions,
but the quantity of the whole picjkle must depend on the
quantity of cauliflower, which must be kept well covered
by the liquid. Pour it over the cauliflower, and secure the
jars closely from the air.

You may pickle brocoli in the same manner. Also 1he
green tops of asparagus.

226 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE.

TAKE a fine firm cabbage of a deep red or purple colour.
Strip off the outer leaves, and cut out the stalk. Quarter the
cabbage lengthways, and then slice it crossways. Lay it in
a deep dish, sprinkle a handful of salt over it, cover it with
another dish, arid let it lie twenty-four hours. Then drain it
in a cullender from the salt, and wipe it dry. Make a pickle
of sufficient cider vinegar to cover the cabbage well, adding to
it equal quantities of cloves and allspice, with some mace.
The spices must be put in whole, with a little cochineal to
give it a good red colour. Boil the vinegar and spices hard
for five minutes, and having put the cabbage into a stone jar,
pour the vinegar over it boiling hot. Cover the jar with a
cloth till it gets cold ; and then put in a large cork, and tie
a leather over it.

EXCELLENT COLD SLAW.

TAKE a nice fresh white cabbage, wash, and drain it, and
cut off the stalk. Shave down the head evenly and nicely
into very small shreds, with a cabbage-cutter, or a sharp knife.
Put it into a deep china dish, and prepare for it the following
dressing. Take a. large .half-pint of the "best cider vinegar,
and mix with it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided
into four bits, and rolled in flour; a small salt-spoon of
salt, and the same quantity of cayenne. Stir all this well
together, and boil it in a small saucepan. Have ready the
yolks of -four eggs well beaten. As soon as the mixture has
come to a hard boil, take it off the fire, and stir in the beaten
egg. Then pour it boiling hot over the shred cabbage, and
mix it well, all through, with a spoon. Set it to cool on ice

PICKLING. 227

or snow, or in the open air. It mast be quite cold before it
goes to table.

WARM SLAW. — Take a red cabbage ; wash, drain, and
shred it finely. Put it into a deep dish. Cover it closely,
and set it on the top of a stove, or in a bake oven, till it is warm
all through. Then make a dressing as in the receipt for cold
slaw. Pour it hot over the cabbage. Cover the dish, and
send it to table as warm as possible.

EAST INDIA PICKLE.

THIS is a mixture of various things pickled together, and
pat into the same jar.

Have ready a small white cabbage, sliced, and the stalk
removed ; a cauliflower cut into neat branches, leaving out
the large -stalk ; sliced cucumbers ; sliced carrots ; sliced
beets, (all nicked round the edges ;) button-onions ; string,
beans ; radish pods ; barberries ; cherries ; green grapes ;
nasturtians ; capsicums ; bell-peppers, &c. Sprinkle all
these things with salt, put them promiscuously into a large
earthen pan, and pour scalding salt and water over them.
Let them lie in the brine for four days, turning them all over
every day. Then take them out, wash each thing separately
in vinegar, and wipe them carefully in a cloth. Afterwards
lay them on sieves before the fire, and dry them thoroughly.

For the pickle liquor. — To every two quarts of the best
vinegar, put an ounce and a half of white ginger root,
scraped and sliced; the same of long pepper; two ounces
of peeled shalots, or little button-onions, cut in pieces ; half
an ounce of peeled garlic ; an ounce of turmeric ; aid two

I

228 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

ounces of mustard seed bruised, or of mustard powder.
Let all these' ingredients, mixed with the vinegar, infuse in
a close jar for a week, setting in a warm place, or by the
fire. Then (after the vegetables have been properly pre-
pared, and dried from the brine) put them all into one
large stone jar, or into smaller jars, and strain the pickle
over them. The liquid must be in a large quantity, so
as to keep the vegetables well covered with it, or they will
spoil. Put a table-spoonful of sweet oil on the top of each
jar, and secure them well with a large cork and a leather.

If you find that after awhile the vegetables have absorbed
the liquor, so that there is danger of their not having a suffi-
ciency, prepare some more seasoned vinegar and pour it over
them.

East India pickle is very convenient, and will keep two
years. As different vegetables come into season, you can
prepare them with the salt and water process, and add them
to the things already in the jar. You may put small mangoes
into this pickle ; also plums, peaches and apricots.

TO PICKLE OYSTERS FOR KEEPING.

FOR this purpose take none but the finest and largest oys-
ters. After they are opened, separate them from their liquor,
and put them into a bucket or a large pan, and pour boiling
water upon them to take out the slime. Stir them about in
it, and then take them out, and rinse them well in cold water.
Then put them into a large kettle with fresh water, barely
enough to cover them, (mixing with it a table-spoonful of salt
to every hundred oysters,) and give them a boil up, just suffi-
cient to plump them. T?.ke them out, spread them on large

PICKLING. 229

dishes or on a clean table, and cover them with a cloth. Take
the liquor of the oysters, and with every pint of it mix a quart
of the best vinegar, a table-spoonful of salt, a table-spoonful
of whole cloves, the same of whole black pepper, and a tea-
spoonful of whole mace. Put the liquid over the fire in a
kettle, and when it boils throw in the oysters, and let them
remain in it five minutes. Then take the whole off the fire,
stir it up well, and let it stand to get quite cold. Afterwards
(if you have a large quantity) put it into a keg, which must first
bs well scalded, (a new keg is best,) and fill it as full as it can
hold. Do not put a weight on the oysters to keep them
down in the liquor, as it will crush them to pieces if the keg
should be moved or conveyed to a distance. If you have not
enough to fill a keg, put them into stone jars .when they are
perfectly cold, and cover them securely.

For pickling oysters and all other purposes use only the best
cider vinegar. The sharp pungent vinegar made entirely of
chemical substances wrill destroy the oysters, and is too un-
wholesome for any culinary purpose. No one should pur-
chase" it. It may be known by its excessive sharpness ; being
violently pungent without any pleasant flavour.

230
SWEETMEATS.

GENERAL REMARKS.

THE introduction of iron ware lined with porcelain has for-
tunately almost superseded the use of. brass or bell-metal
kettles for boiling sweetmeats ; a practice by which the
articles prepared in those pernicious utensils were always
more or less imbued witr^ the deleterious qualities of the ver-
digris that is produced in them by the action of acids.

Charcoal furnaces will be found very convenient for pre-
serving ; the kettles being set on the top. They can be used
in the open air. Sweetmeats should be boiled rather quickly,
that the watery particles may exhale at once, without being
subjected to so long a process as to spoil the colour and
diminish the flavour of the fruit. But on the other hand, if
boiled too short a time they will not keep so well.

If you wish your sweetmeats to look bright and clear, use
only the very best loaf-sugar. Fruit may be preserved for
family use and for common purposes, in sugar of inferior
quality, but it will never have a good appearance, and it is also
more liable to spoil.

If too small a proportion of sugar is allowed to the fruit, it
will certainly not keep well. When this experiment is tried it
is generally found to be false economy ; as sweetmeats, when
they begin to spoil, can only be recovered and made eatable
by boiling them over again with additional sugar; and even
then, they are never so good as if done properly at first. If
jellies have not sufficient sugar, they do not congeal, but
will remain liquid.

SWEETMEATS. 231

Jelly bags should be made of white flannel. It is wnll to
have a wooden stand or frame like a towel horse, to which tho
bag can be tied while it is dripping. The bag should first be
dipped in hot water, for if dry it will absorb too much of the
juice. After the liquor is all in, close the top of the bag, that
none of the flavour may evaporate.

In putting away sweetmeats, it is best to place them in
small jars,'as the more frequently they are exposed to the air by
opening, the more danger there is of their spoiling. The best
vessels for this purpose are white queen's'-ware pots, or glass
jars. For jellies, jams, and for small fruit, common glass
tumblers are very convenient, and may be covered simply
with double tissue-paper, cut exactly to fit the inside of the
top of the glass, laid lightly on the sweetmeat, and pressed
down all round with the finger. This covering, if closely and
nicely fitted, will be found to keep them perfectly well, and
as it adheres so closely as to form a complete coat over the
top, it is better for jellies or jams than writing-paper dipped
in brandy, which is always somewhat shrivelled by the liquor
with which it has been saturated.

*

If you find that your sweetmeats have become dry and can-
died, you may liquefy them again by setting the jars in water
and making it boil round them.

In preserving fruit whole, it is best to put it first in a thin
syrup. If boiled in a thick syrup at the beginning, the juice
will be drawn out so as to shrink the fruit.

•

It is better to boil it but a short time at once, and then to
take it out and let it get cold, afterwards returning it to«the
syrup, than to keep it boiling too long at a time, which will
cause it to break and lose its shape.

Preserving kettles should be rather broad than deep, for the
fruit cannot be done equally if it is too much heaped. They

232 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

should all have covers belonging to them, to put on after the
scum has done rising, that the flavour of the fruit may be
kept in with the steam.

A perfoiated skimmer pierced all through with holes is a
very necessary utensil in making sweetmeats.

The water used for melting the sugar should be very clear;
spring or pump water is best. But if you are obliged to use
river water, let it first be filtered. Any turbidness or impurity
in the water will injure the clearness of the sweetmeats.

If sweetmeats ferment in the jars, boil them over again
witn additional sugar.

•

CLARIFIED SUGAR SYRUP.

TAKE eight pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar
and break it up or powder it. Then beat the whites of
four eggs to a strong froth. Stir the white of egg gradually
into two quarts of very clear "spring or pump water. Put
the sugar into a porcelain kettle, and mix with it the
water and white of egg. While the sugar is melting, stir it
frequently ; and when it is entirely dissolved, put the kettle
over a moderate fire, and let it boil, carefully taking off the
scum as it comes to the top, and pouring in a little cold
water when you find the syrup rising so as to run over the
edge of the kettle. It will be well when it first boils hard to
pour in half a pint of cold water to keep down the bubbles so
that the scum may appear, and be easily removed. You must
not however boil it to candy height, so that the bubbles will
look like hard pearls, and the syrup will harden in the spoon
and hang from it in strings ; for though very thick and clear
it must continue liquid. When it is done, let it stand till it
gets quite cold ; and if you do not want it for immediate use,
put it into bottles and seal the corks.

SWEETMEATS. 233

When you wish to use this syrup for preserving, you have
only to put the fruit into it, and boil it till tender and clear,
but not till it breaks. Large fruit that is done whole, should

o

first be boiled tender in a very thin syrup that it may not
shrink. Small fruit, such as raspberries, strawberries, grapes,
currants, gooseberries, &c. may, if perfectly ripe, be put raw

*

into strong cold sugar syrup ; they will thus retain their form
and colour, and their freshness- and natural taste. They must
be put into small glass jars, and kept well covered with the
syrup. This, however, is an experiment which sometimes
fails, and had best be tried on a small scale, or 'only for imme-
diate use.

TO PRESERVE GINGER.

TAKE root of green ginger, and pare it neatly \vith a sharp
knife, throwing it into a pan of cold water as you pare it.
Then boil it till tender all through, changing the water three
times. Each time put on the ginger in quite cold water to take
out the excessive heat. When it is perfectly tender, throw it
again into a pan of cold water, and let it lie an hour or more ;
this will make it crisp. In the mean time prepare the syrup.

For every six pounds of ginger root, clarify eight pounds
of the best double-refined loaf-sugar. Break up the sugar,
put it into a preserving kettle, and melt it in spring or pump
water, (into which you have stirred gradually the beaten
whites of four eggs,) and half a pint of water to each pound
of sugar. Boil and skim it well. Then let the syrup stand
till it is cold ; and having drained the ginger, pour the syrup
over it, cover it, and do not disturb it for two days. Then,
having poured it from the ginger, boil the syrup over again.

A.S soon as it is cold, pour it again on the ginger, and let n

20*

234 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

stand at least three days. Afterwards boil the syrup a^ain,
and pour it hot over the ginger. Proceed in this manner till
you find that the syrup has thoroughly penetrated the ginger,
(which you may ascertain by its taste and appearance when
you cut a piece off,) and till the syrup becomes very thick
and rich. Then put it all into jars, and cover it closely.

If you put the syrup hot to the ginger at first, it will shrink
and shrivel. After the first time, you have only to boil and
reboil the syrup ; as it is not probable that it will require any
further clarifying if carefully skimmed. It will be greatly
improved by adding some lemon-juice at the close of the last
boiling.

TO PRESERVE CITRONS.

PARE off the outer skin of some fine citrons, and cut them
into quarters. Take out the middle. You may divide each
quarter into several pieces. Lay them for four or five hours
in salt and water. Take them out, and then soak them in
spring or pump water (changing it frequently) till all the
saltness is extracted, and till the last water tastes perfectly
fresh. Boil a small lump of alum, and scald them in the
alum-water. It must be very weak, or it will communicate
an unpleasant taste to the citro^ns ; a lump the size of a
hickory nut will suffice for six pounds. ' Afterwards simmer
them two hours with layers of green vine leaves. Then make
a syrup, with half a pint of water to each pound of loaf-sugar ;
boil and skim it well. When it is quite clear, put in the
citrons, and boil them slowly, till they are so soft that a straw
will pierce through them without breaking. Afterwards put
them into a large dish, and set them in the sun to harden.

Prepare some lemons, by paring off the yellow rind verv

SWEETMEATS. 235

thin, and cutting it into slips of uniform size and shape. Lay
the lemon- rind in scalding water, to extract the bitterness.
Then take the pared lemons, cut them into quarters, measure
a half pint of water to each lemon, and boil them to a mash.
Strain the boiled lemon through a sieve, and to each pint of
liquid allow a pound of the best double-refined loaf-sugar, for
the second syrup. Melt the sugar in the liquid, and stir into

•

it gradually some beaten white of egg ; allowing one white to
four pounds of sugar. Then set it over the fire ; put the
lemon-peel into the syrup, and let it boil in it till quite soft.

Put the citrons cold into a glass jar, and pour the hot syrup
over them. Let the lemon remain with the citrons, as it will
improve their flavour.

If you wish the citrons to be candied, boil down the second
syrup to candy height, (that is, till it hangs in strings from the
spoon,) and pour it over the citrons. Keep them well covered.

You may, if you choose, after you take the citrons from the

*

alum-water, give them a boil in very weak ginger. tea, made
of the roots of green ginger if you can procure it ; if not, of race
ginger. Powdered ginger will not do at all. This ginger
tea will completely eradicate any remaining taste of the salt
or the alum. Afterwards cover the sides and bottom of the
pan with vine leaves, put a layer of leaves between each
layer of citron, and cover the top with leaves. Simmer the
citrons in this two hours to green them.

In the same manner you may preserve water-melon rind,
or the rind of cantelopes. Cut these rinds into stars, dia-
monds, crescents, circles, or into any fanciful shape you
choose. Be sure to pare off the outside skin before you put
the rinds into the salt and water.

Pumpkin cut into slips, may be preserved according to the
above receipt.

236 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

C ANTE LOPES. OR MUSK-MELONS.— take very
small cantelopes before they are ripe. Shave a thin paring
off the whole outside. Cut out a small piece or plug about an
inch square, and through it extract all the seeds, &c. from the
middle. Then return the plugs to the hole from whence you
took them, and secure them with a needle and thread, or by
tying a small string round the cantelope.

Lay the cantelopes for four or five hours in salt and water.
Then put them into spring water to extract the salt, .changing
the water till you find it salt no longer. Scald them in weak
alum-water. Make a syrup in the proportion of a pint of
water to a pound of loaf-sugar, and boil the cantelopes in it
till a straw will go through them. Then take them out, and
set them in the sun to harden.

Prepare some fine ripe oranges, paring off the yellow rind
very thin, and cutting it into slips, and then laying it in scald-
ing water to extract the bitterness. Cut the oranges into

«

pieces ; allow a pint of water to each orange, and boil them
to a pulp. Afterwards strain them, and allow to each pint
of the liquid, a pound of the best loaf-sugar, and stir in a little
beaten white of egg; one white to two pounds of sugar.
This is for the second syrup. Boil the peel in it, skimming
it well. When the peel is soft, take it all out ; for if left
among the cantelopes, it will communicate to it too strong a
taste of the orange.

Put the cantelopes into your jars, and pour over them the
hot syrup. Cover them closely, and keep them in a dry cool
place.

Large cameiopes may be prepared for preserving (after you
have taken off the outer rind) by cutting them into pieces
according to the natural divisions with which they are fluted.

This receipt for preserving cantelopes whole, will do very

SWEETMEATS. 237

well for gree.n lemons or limes, substituting lemon-peel arid

•

lemon-juice for that of or.anges in the second syrup.

You may use some of the first syrup to boil up the pulp of
the orange or lemons that has been left. It will make a sort

of marmalade, that is very good for colds.
J

PRESERVED WATER-MELON RIND.— Having pared

off the green skin, cut the rind of a water-melon into pieces of
any shape you please ; stars, diamonds, circles, crescents or
leaves, using for the purpose a sharp penknife. Weigh the
pieces, and allow to each pound a pound and a half of loaf
sugar. Set the sugar aside, and put the pieces of melon-rind
into a preserving kettle, the bottom and sides of which you
have lined with green vine leaves. Put a layer of vine leaves
between each layer of melon-rind, and cover the top with
leaves. Disperse among the pieces some very small bits of
alum, each about the bigness of a grain of corn, and allowing
one bit to every pound of the melon-rind. Pour in just water
enough to cover the whole, and place a thick double cloth (or
some other covering) over the top of the kettle to keep in the
steam, which will improve the greening. Let it simmer (but
not boil) for two hours. Then take out the pieces of melon-
rind and spread 4hem on dishes to cool. Afterwards if you
find that they taste of the alum, simmer them in very weak
ginger tea for about three hours. Then proceed to make your
syrup. Melt the sugar in clear spring or pump water, allow
ing a pint of water to a pound and a half of sugar, and mixing
in with it some white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. The
white of one egg will be enough for two pounds of sugar.
Boil and skim it ; and when the scum ceases to rise, put in
the melon-rind, and let it simmer an hour. Take it out and

•

spread it to cool on dishes, return it to the syrup, and simmei

238 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

it another hour. After this take it out, and put it into a tureen.
Boil up the syrup again, and pour it over the melon-rind.
Cover it, and let it stand all night. Next morning- give the
syrup another boil ; adding to it some lemon-juice, allowing
the juice of one lemon to a quart of the syrup. When you
find it so thick as to hang in a drop on the point of the spoon,
it is sufficiently done. Then put the rind into glass jars,
pour in the syrup, and secure the sweetmeats closely from
the air with paper dipped in brandy, and a leather outer cover.

This, if carefully done and well greened, is a very nice
sweetmeat, and may be used to ornament the top of creams,
jellies, jams, &c. laying it round in rings or wreaths.

Citrons may be preserved green in the same manner, first
paring off the outer skin and cutting them into quarters. Also
green limes.

PRESERVED PEPPERS.— For this purpose take the
email round peppers while they are green. With a sharp
penknife extract the seeds and cores ; and then put the out-
sides into a kettle with vine leaves, and a little alum to give
them firmness, and assist in keeping them green. Proceed
precisely as directed for the water-melon rind, in the .above
receipt.

PUMPKIN CHIPS.— It is best to defer making this
sweetmeat (which will be found very fine) till late in the sea-
son when lemons are ripe and are to be had in plenty. Pump-
kins (as they keep well) can generally be procured at any
time through the winter.

•

Take a fine pumpkin of a rich deep colour, pare off the
outer rind; rrmove the seeds; and having sliced the best
part, cut it into chips of equal size, and as thin as you can

SWEETMEATS. 239

do them. They should be in long narrow pieces, two
inches in breadth, and four in length. It is best to pre-
pare the pumpkin the day before; and having weighed the
chips, allow to each pound of them a pound of the best loaf-
sugar. You must have several dozen of fine ripe lemons,
sufficient to furnish a jill of lemon-juice to each pound of
pumpkin. Having rolled them under your hand on a table,
to make them yield as much juice as possible, pare off the
yellow rind and put it away for some other purpose. Then
having cut the lemons, squeeze out all the juice into a pitcher.
Lay the pumpkin chips in a large pan or tureen, strewing the
sugar among them. ' Then having measured the lemon-juice
in a wine-glass, (two common wine-glasses making one jill,)
pour it over the pumpkin and sugar, cover the vessel, and let
it stand all night.

Next day transfer the pumpkin, sugar, and lemon-juice to a
preserving kettle, and boil it slowly for an hour or more,
or till the pumpkin becomes all through tender, crisp, and
transparent; but it must not be over the fire long enough to
break and lose its form. You must skim it thoroughly. Some
very small pieces of the lemon-paring may be boiled with it.
When you think it is done, take up the pumpkin chips in a
perforated skimmer that the syrup may drain through the
holes back into the kettle. Spread the chips to cool on large
dishes, and pass the syrup through a flannel bag that has been
first dipped in hot water. When the chips are cold, put them
into glass jars or tumblers, pour in the syrup, and lay on tho
top white paper dipped in brandy. Then tie up the jars with
leather, or with covers of thick white paper.

If you find that when cold the chips are not perfectly clear,
crisp, and tender, give them another boil in the syrup before
you put them up.

240 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

This, if well made, is a handsome and excellent sweetmeat.
It need not be eaten with cream, the syrup being- so delicious
as to require nothing to improve it. Shells of puff-paste first
baked empty, and then filled with pumpkin chips, will be
found very nice.

Musk-melon chips may be done in the same manner.

TO PRESERVE PINE-APPLE S.— Take fine large pine-
apples ; pare them, and cut off a small round piece from the
bottom of each ; let the freshest and best of the top leaves
remain on. Have ready on a slow fire, a large "preserving
kettle with a thin syrup barely sufficient to cover the fruit.
In making this syrup allow a poand of fine loaf-sugar to every
quart of water, and half the white of a beaten egg ; all to be
mixed before it goes on the fire. Then boil and skim it, and
when the scum ceases to rise, put in the pine-apples, and
simmer them slowly an hour. Then take them out to cool,
cover them carefully and put them away till next day ; saving
the syrup in another vessel. Next day, put them into the
same syrup, and simmer them again an hour. On the third
day, repeat the process. The fourth day, make a strong
fresh syrup, allowing but a pint of water to each pound of
sugar, and to every two pounds the beaten white of one egg.
When this syrup has boiled, and is completely skimmed, put
in the pine-apples, and simmer them half an hour. Then take
them out to cool, and set them aside till next morning. Boil
them again half an hour in the same syrup, and repeat this
for seven or eight days, or till you can pierce through the
pine-apple with a straw from a corn-broom. At the last of
these boilings enrich the syrup by allowing to each pound of
sugar a quarter of a pound more ; and, having boiled and
skimmed it, put in the pine apples for half an hour. Then

SWEETMEATS. 24l

take them out, and when quite cold put each into a separate
glass jar, and fill up with the syrup.

Pine apples may be preserved in slices by a very simple
process. Pare them, and cut them into round pieces near ait

•

inch thick, and take out the core from the centre of each slice.
Allow a pound of loaf-sugar to every pound of the sliced pine-
apple. Powder the sugar, and strew it in layers between the
slices of pine-apple. Cover it and let it set all night. Next
morning measure some clear spring or pump water, allowing
half a pint to each pound of sugar. Beat some white of egg,
(one white to two pounds of sugar,) and when it is a very
stiff froth, stir it gradually into the watet. Then mix with it
the pine-apple and sugar, and put the whole into a preserving
kettle. Boil and skim it well, till the pine-apple is tender
and bright all through. Then take it out, and when cold,
put it up in wide-mouthed glass jars, or in large tumblers.

TO PREPARE FRESH PINE-APPLES.— Cut off the

top and bottom .and pare off the rind. Then cut the pine-apples
in round slices half an inch thick, and put them into a deep
dish, sprinkling every slice with powdered loaf-sugar. Cover
them, and let them lie in the sugar for an hour or two, before
they are to be eaten.

PRESERVED LEMONS.— Take large fine ripe lemons,
that have no blemishes. Choose those with thin, smooth
rinds. With a sharp knife scoop a hole in the stalk end of
each, large enough to admit the handle of a tea-spoon. This
hole is to enable the syrup to penetrate the inside of the
lemons. Put them into a preserving kettle with clear water,
and boil them gently till you find them tender, keeping the

kettle uncovered. Then take them out, drain, and cool

21

242 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

them, and put them into a small tub. Prepare a thin syrup
of a pound of loaf-sugar to a quart of water. When you have
boiled and skimmed it, pour it over the lemons and cover
them. Let them stand in the syrup till next day. Then pour
the syrup from the lemons, and spread them on a large dish.
Boil it a quarter of an hour, and pour it over them again,
havino- first returned them to the tub. Cover them, and let

o

them again stand till next day, when you must again boil the
syrup and pour it over them. Repeat this process every day
till you find that the lemons are quite clear, and that the syrup
has p'enetrated them thoroughly. If you find the syrup be-
coming too weak, add a little more sugar to it. Finally, make
a strong syrup in the proportion of half a pint of water to a
pound of sugar, adding a jill of raw lemon-juice squeezed
from fresh lemons, and allowing to every two pounds of
sugar the^beaten white of an egg. Mix all wrell together in the
kettle. Boil and skim it, and when the scum ceases to rise,
pour the syrup boiling hot over the lemons ; and covering
them closely, let them stand undisturbed for four days. Then
look at them, and if you find that they have not sucked in
enough of the syrup to make the inside very sweet, boil them
gently in the syrup for a quarter of an hour. \\ hen they are
cold, put them up in glass jars.

You may green lemons by burying them in a kettle of vine
leaves when you give them the first boiling in the clear
water.

Limes may be preserved by this receipt ; also oranges.

To prepare fresh oranges for eating, peel and cut them in
round slices and remove the seeds. Strew powdered loaf-
sugar over them. Cover them and let them stand an hour
before they are eaten.

SWEETMEATS. 243

ORANGE MARMALADE.— Take fine large ripe oranges,
with thin deep-coloured skins. Weigh them, and allow to
each pound of oranges a pound of loaf-sugar. Pare off the
yellow outside of the rind from half the oranges, as thin as
possible ; and putting it into a pan with plenty of cold water,
cover it closely (placing a double cloth beneath the tin cover)
to keep in the steam, and boil it slowly till it is so soft that
the head of a pin will pierce it. In the mean time grate the
rind from the remaining oranges, and put it aside ; quarter
the oranges, and take out all the pulp and the juice ; removing

*

the seeds and core. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle,
with a half pint of clear water to each pound, and mix it with
some beaten white of egg, allowing one white of ego-, to
every two pounds of sugar. When the sugar is all dis-
solved, put it on the fire, and boil and skim it till it is quite
clear and thick. Next take the boiled parings, and pound
them to a paste in a mortar; put this paste into the sugar,

•

and boil and stir it ten minutes. Then put it in the pulp and
juice of the oranges, and the grated rind, (which will much
improve the colour,) and boil all together for about half an hour,
till it is a transparent mass. When cold, put it up in gfcss
jars, laying brandy paper on the top.

Lemon marmalade may be made in a similar manner, but
you must allow a pound and a half of sugar to each pound of
lemons.

ORANGE JELLY. — Take twenty large ripe oranges,
and grate the yellow rind from seven of them. Dissolve an
ounce of isinglass in as much warm water as will cover it.
Mix the juice with a pound of loaf-sugar broken up, and
add the grated rind and the isinglass. Put it into a porce-
lain pan over hot coals, and stir it till it boils. Then skim

244 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

it well. Boil it ten minutes, and strain it (but do not squeeze
it) through a jelly-bag- till it is quite clear. Put it into a
mould to congeal, and when you want to turn it out dip the
mould into luke-warm water. Or you may put it into glasses
at once.

You must have a pint of juice to a pound of sugar.

A few grains of saffron boiled with the jelly will improve
the colour without affecting the taste.

PRESERVED PEACHES.

TAKE large juicy ripe peaches ; free-stones are the best, as
they have a finer flavour than. the cling-stones, and are much
more manageable both to preserve, and to eat. Pare them,
and cut.. them in half, or in quarters, leaving out the stones.
the half of which you must save. To every pound of the
peaches allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Powder the sugar, and
strew it among. your peaches. Cover them and let them stand
all night. Crack half the peach-stones, break them up, put
th|jari into a small sauce-pan and boil them slowly in as much
water as will cover them. Then wThen the wrater is well fla-
voured with the peach-kernels, strain them out, and -set the
water aside. Take care not to use too much of the kernel-
water ; a very little will suffice. Put the peaches into a pre-
serving kettle, and boil them in their juice over a quick fire,
(adding the kernel-water,) and skimming them all the time.
When they are quite clear, which should be in half an hour,
take them off, and put them into a tureen. Boil the syrup
five minutes longer, and pour it hot over the peaches. When
they are cool, put them into glass jars, and tie them- up with
paper dipped in brandy laid next to them.

SWEETMEATS. 245

Apricots, nectarines, and large plums may be preserved in
the same manner.

PEACHES FOR COMMON USE.— Take ripe free-stone
poaches ; pare, stone, and quarter them. To six pounds of
the cut peaches allow three pounds of the best brown sugar.
iStrew the sugar among the peaches, and set them away. Next
morning add a handful of the kernels, put the whole into a
preserving kettle, and boil it slowly about an hour and three
quarters, or two hours, skimming it well. When cold, put it
up in jars, and keep it for pies, or for any common purpose.

BRANDY PEACHES.— Take large white or yellow free-
stone peaches, the finest you can procure. They must not be
too ripe. Rub off the down with a flannel, score them down

•

the seam with a large needle, and prick every peach to the
stone in several places. Scald them with boiling water, and
let them, remain in the water till it becomes cold, keeping
them well covered. Repeat the scalding three times : it is to
make them white. Then wipe them, and spread them on a
soft table-cloth, covering them over with several folds. Let
them remain in the cloth to dry. Afterwards put them into a
tureen, or a large jar, and pour on as much white French brandy
as will cover them well. Carefully keep the air from them,
and -let them remain in the brandy for a week. Then make a
syrup in the usual manner, allowing to each pound of peaches
a pound of loaf-sugar and half a pint of water mixed with a
very little beaten white of egg; one white to every two
pounds of sugar.

When the syrup has boiled, and been well skimmed, put
in the peaches and boil them slowly till they look clear : but

do not keep them boiling more than half an hour. Then take

21*

246 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

them out, drain them, and put them-into large glass jars. Mix
the syrup, when it is cold, with the brandy in which you had
the peaches, and pour it over them. Instead of scalding the

peaches to whiten them, you may lay them for an hour in

•

sufficient cold weak lye to cover them well. Turn them
frequently while in the l}re, and wipe them dry afterwards.

Pears and apricots may be preserved in brandy, according
to the above receipt. The skin of the pears should be taken
off, but the stems left en.

Large egg plums may be preserved in the same manner.

Another way of preparing brandy peaches is, after rubbing
off the down and pricking them, to put them into a preserving
kettle with cold water, and simmer them slowly till they be-
come hot all through ; but they must not be allowed to boil.
Then dry them in a cloth, and let them lie till they are cold,
covering them closely from. the air. Dissolve* loaf-sugar in
the best wrhite brandy, (a pound of sugar to a quart of brandy,)
and having, put the peaches into large glass jars, pour the
brandy and sugar over them (without boiling) and cover the
jars well with leather.

Pears, apricots, and egg plums may also- be done in this
manner.

PEACH MARMALADE.— Take ripe yellow free-stone
peaches ; pare, stone, and quarter them. To each pound of
peaches, allow three quarters of a pound of powdered loaf
sugar, and half an ounce of bitter almonds, or peach-kernels
blanched in scalding water, and pounded smooth in a mortar.
Scald the peaches in a very little water, mash them to a pulp,
mix them with the sugar and pounded almonds, and put the
whole into a preserving kettle. Let it boil to a smooth thick
jam, skimming and stirring it well, and keeping the pan

SWEETMEATS. -247

covered as much as possible. Fifteen minutes will generally
suffice for boiling it. When cold, put it up in glass jars.
Plum marmalade maybe made in this manner, flavouiing

•

it with pounded plum-kernels.

PEACH JELLY. — Take fine juicy free-stone peaches, and
and quarter them. Scald them in a very little water, drain
and mash them, and squeeze the juice through a jelly-bag. To
every pint of juice allow a pound of loaf-sugar, and a few
of the peach-kernels. Having broken up the kernels and
boiled them by themselves for a quarter of an hour in just as
much water as will cover them, strain off the kernel-water,
•and add it to the juice. Mix the juice with the sugar, and
when it is melted, boil them together fifteen minutes, till it
becomes a thick jelly. Skim it well when it boils. Try the
jelly by taking a little in a spoon and holding it in the open
air to see if it congeals. If you find, that after sufficient boil-
ing, it still continues thin, you can make it congeal by stirringr
in an ounce or more of isinglass, dissolved and strained.
When the jelly is done, put it into tumblers^ and lay on the
top double tissue paper cut exactly to fit the inside of the
glass ; pressing it down with your fingers.

You may make plum jelly in the same manner, allowing a
pound and a half of sugar to a pint of juice.

TO PRESERVE APRICOTS.— Take ripe apricots ; scald
them, peel them, cut them in half, and extract the stones.
Then weigh the apricots, and to each! pound allow a pound
of loaf-sugar. Put them into a tureen or large pan, in alter-
nate layers of apricots and sugar ; cover them, and let them
stand all night. Next morning put all together into a pre-
serving kettle, and boil them moderately a quarter of an hour.

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

«

Then take them out, spread them on dishes, and let them
stand till next day. Then boil them again in the same syrup
another quarter of an hour. Afterwards, spread them out to
cool, put them into glass jars, and pour the syrup over them.
Peaches may be preserved in the same manner. Also
large plums or green gages ; but to the plums you must allow
additional sutrar.

TO DRY PEACHES.—The best peaches for drying are
juicy free-stones. They must be quite ripe. Cut them in

•

half, and take out the stones. It is best not to pare them ; as
dried peaches are much richer with the skin on, and it dis-
solves and becomes imperceptible when they are cooked.
Spread them out in. a sunny balcony or on a scaffold, and let
them dry gradually till they become somewhat like leather;
always bringing them in at sunset, and not putting "them out
if the weather is damp or cloudy. They may also be dried
in kilns or large ovens.

Apples are dried in the same manner, except that they must
be pared and quartered.

Cherries also may be dried in the sun, first taking out all
the stones. None but the largest and best cherries should be
used for drying.

TO PRESERVE QUINCES.

TAKE: large, yellow, ripe quinces, and having washed
and wiped them, pare them, and extract the cores. Quar-
ter the quinces, or cut them into slices half an inch
thick, and lay them in scalding water (closely covered)
and boil them till tender — lest they harden in the sugar.
Put the parings, cores, and seeds into a preserving kettle.

SWEETMEATS. '. ' f,

cover them with the water in which you coddled ihe
quinces, and bcil them an hour, keeping them closely co-
vered all the time. To» every pint of this liquor allow a
pound of loaf-sugar; and having dissolved the sugar" in it,
put it over the fire in the preserving kettle. Boil it up
and skim it, and when the scum has ceased rising, put
in the quinces, and boil them till they are red, tender, and
clear all through, but not till they break. Keep the kettle
closely covered while the quinces are in it, if you wish to
have them bright coloured. You may improve the colour
by boiling with them a little cochineal sifted through a
muslin rag.

When they are done, take them out,*spread them on largo
dishes to cool, and then put them into glasses. Give the
syrup another boil up, and it will be like a fine jelly. Pour
it hot over the quinces, and when cold, cover the jars, past-
ing paper round the covers.

TO PRESERVE QUINCES WHOLE.— Take those that
are large, smooth, and yellow ; pare them and extract the
cores, carefully removing all the blemishes. Boil the quinces
in a close* kettle with the cores and parings, in sufficient water
to cover them. In half an hour take them out, spread them
to cool, and add to the cores and parings some small inferior
quinces cut in quarters, but not pared or cored ; and pour in
some more water, just enough to boil them. Cover the pan,
and let them simmer for an hour. Then take it off, strain the
liquid, measure it, and to each quart allow a pound of loaf-
sugar. Put the sugar to melt in the liquid, and let it set all
night. Next day boil the quinces in it for a quarter of an
hour, and then take them out and cool them, saving the syrup.
Oa the following day repeat the same ; and the tounh day

250 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

add a quarter of a pound more sugar to each pint of the syrup,
and boil the quinces in it twelve minutes. If by this time
they are not tender, bright, and transparent all through, repeat
the boiling.

When they are quite done, put quince jelly or marmalade
into the holes from whence }TOU took the cores ; put the quinces
into glass jars and pour the syrup over them. If convenient,
it is a very nice way to put up each quince in a separate
tumbler.

QUINCE JELLY. — Take fine ripe yellow quinces, wash
them and remove all the blemishes. Gut them in pieces, but
do not pare or core them. Put them into a preservirrg-pan
with clear spring water. If you are obliged to use river
water, filter it first; allowing one pint to twelve large
quinces. Boil them gently till they are all soft and broken.
Then put them into a jelly-bag, and do not squeeze it till
after the clear liquid has ceased running. Of this you must
make the best jelly, allowing to each pint a pound of loaf-
sugar. Having dissolved the sugar in the liquid, boil them
together about twenty minutes, or till you have a*thick jelly.

In the mean time squeeze out all that is left in the bag. It
will not be clear, but you can make of it a very good jelly for
common purposes.

QUINCE MARMALADE.— -Take ten pounds of ripe yel-
low quinces ; and having washed them clean, pare and core
them, and cut them into small pieces. To each pound of the
cut quinces allow half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put
the parings and cores into a kettle with water enough to cover
them, and boil them slowly till they are all to pieces, and
quite soft. Then having put the quinces with the sugar into

SWEETMEATS. 251

a porcelain preserving kettle, strain over them, through a
cloth, the liquid from the parings and cores. Add a little
cochineal powdered, and sifted through thin muslin. Boil
the whole over a quick fire till it becomes a thick smooth
mass, keeping it covered except when you are skimming it;
and always after skimming, stir it up well from the bottom.

When cold, put it up in glass jars. If you*wish to use
it soon, put it warm into moulds, and when it is cold, set the
moulds in luke-warm water, and the marmalade will turn out
easily.

QUINCE CHEESE.— Have fine ripe quinces, and pare
and core them. Cut them into pieces, and weigh them ; and
to each pound of the cut quinces, allow half a pound of the
best brown sugar. Put the cores and parings into a kettle
with water enough to cover them, keeping the lid of the
kettle closed. When you find that they are all boiled to
pieces and quite soft, strain off the water over the sugar, and
when it is entirely dissolved, put it over the fire and boil it
to a thick syrup, skimming it well. When no more scum
rises, put in the quinces, cover them closely, and boil them
all day over a slow fire, stirring them and mashing them
down with a spoon till they are a thick smooth paste. Then
take it out, and put it into buttered tin pans or deep dishes.
Let it set to get cold. It will then turn out so firm that you
may cut it into slices like cheese. Keep it in a dry place in
broad stone' pots. It is intended for the tea-table.

PRESERVED APPLES.

TAKE fine ripe pippin or bell-flower apples. Pare and core
them, and either leave them whole,. or cut them into quarters.

252 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Weigh them, and to each pound of apples allow a pound of
loaf-sugar. Put the apples into a stew-pan with just water
enough to cover them, and let them boil slowly for about half
an hour. They must be only parboiled. Then strain the
apple water over the sugar into a preserving kettle, and when

4e sugar is melted put it on the fire with the yellow rind of
me lemons pared thin, allowing two lemons to a dozen
apples. Boil the syrup till clear and thick, skimming it care-
fully; then put in the -apples, and after they 'have bciled
slowly a quarter of an hour, add the juice of the lemons. Let
it boil about fifteen minutes longer, or till the apples are ten-
der and clear, but not till they break. \Vhen they are cold,
put them into jars, and covering them closely, let them set a
week. At the end of that time give them another boil in the
same syrup ; apples being more difficult to keep than any
other fruit.

You may colour them red by adding, when you boil them
in the syrup, ajittle cochineal.

•»

BAKED APPLES. — Take a dozen fine- large juicy apples,
and pare and core them, but do not cut them m pieces. Put
them side by side into a large baking-pan, and fill up with
white sugar the holes from whence you have extracted the
cores. Pour into each a little lemon-juice, or a few drops of
essence of lemon, and stick in every one a long piece of
lemon-peel evenly cut. Into the bottom of the pan put a very
little water, just enough to prevent the apples from burning.
Bake them about an hour, or till they are tender all through,
but not till they break. When done, set them away to get
cold.

If closely covered they will keep two days. They may be
eaten at tea with cream. Or at dinn-er with a boiled custard

SWEETMEATS. 253

poured over them. Or you may cover them with sweetened
cream flavoured with a little essence of lemon, arid whipped
to a froth. Heap the froth over every apple so as to conceal
them entirely.

•

APPLE JELLY. — Take twenty large ripe juicy pippins.
Pare, core, and chop them to pieces. Put them into a jar with
the*yellowrind of four lemons, pared thin and. cut in to little bits.
Cover the jar closely, and set it into a pot of hot water.
Keep the water boiling hard all round it till the apples are
dissolved. Then strain them through a jelly-bag, and mix
with the liquid the juice of the lemons. To each pint of the
mixed juice allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put them into a
porcelain kettle, and when the sugar is melted, set it on the
fire, and boil and skim it for about twenty minutes, or till it
becomes a thick jelly. Put it into tumblers, and cover it with
double tissue .paper nicely fitted to the inside of the top.

The red or Siberian crab apple makes 'a delicious jelly,
prepared in the above manner.

APPLE BUTTER.— This is a compound of apples and
cider boiled together till of the consistence of soft butter. It

O

is a very good article on the tea-table, or at luncheon. It can
only be made of sweet new. cider fresh from the press, and
not yet fermented.

Fill a very large kettle with cider, and boil it till reduced
to one half the original quantity. Then have ready some fine
juicy apples, pared, cored, and quartered ; and put as many
into the kettle as can be kept moist by the cider. Stir it fre-
quently, and when the apples are stewed quite soft, take them,
out with a skimmer that has holes in it, and put them into a

tub. Then add more apples to the cider, and stew them soft

22

254 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

•

hi the same manner, stirring them nearly all the time with a
stick. Have at hand some more cider ready boiled, to thin
the apple hutter in case you should find it too thick in the
kettle.

If you make a large quantity, (and it is not worth while to
prepare apple butter on a small scale,) it will take a day to
stew the apples. At night leave them to cool in the tubs,
(which must be covered with cloths,) and finish next day by
boiling the apple and cider again till the consistence is that
of soft marmalade, and the colour a very dark brown.

Twenty minutes or half an hour before you finally take it
from the fire, add powdered cinnamon, cloves, and nutmen- to
your taste. If the spice is boiled too long, it will lose its
flavour.

When it is cold, put it into stone jars, and cover it closelv.
If it has been well made, and sufficiently boiled, it will keep
a year or more.

It must not be boiled in a brass or bell-metal kettle, on
account of the verdigris which the acid will collect in it, and
which will render the apple butter extremely unwholesome,

•

not to say poisonous.

TO PRESERVE GREEN CRAB APPLES.— Having

washed your crab apples, (which should be full grown,) cover
the bottom and sides of your preserving kettle with vine
leaves, and put them in; spreading a thick layer of vine
leaves over them. Fill up the kettle with cold water, arid
hang it over a slow fire early in the morning; simmer them
slowly, but do not allow them to boil. When they are quite
yellow, take them out, peel off the skin with a penknife, and
extract the cores very neatly. Put them again into the kettle
with fresh vine leaves and fresh water, and hang them again

SWEETMEATS. 255

over a slow fire to simmer, but not to boil. When they have
remained long enough in the second vine leaves to become
green, take them out, weigh them, and allow a pound and a
half of loaf-sugar to each pound of crab apples. Then after the
kettle has been well washed and wiped, put them into it with
a thick layer of sugar between each layer of apples, and about
half a pint of water, for each pound and a half of sugar. You
may add the juice and yellow peel of some lemons. Boil
them gently till they are quite clear and tender throughout.
Skim them well, and keep the kettle covered when you are
not skimming. When done, spread them on large dishes to
cool, and then tie them up in glass jars with brandy papers.

TO PRESERVE RED CRAB APPLES.— Take red or

Siberian crab apples when they are quite ripe and the seeds
are black. Wash and wipe them, and put them into a kettle
with sufficient water to cover them. Simmer, them very

|

slowly till you find that the skin will come off easily. • Then
take them out and peel and core them ; extract the cores care-
fully with. a small knife, so as not to break the apples. Then
weigh them, and to every pound of crab apples allow a pound
and a half of loaf-sugar and a half pint of water. Put the
sugar and water into a preserving kettle, and when they are
melted too-ether, set it over the fire and let it boil. After

o *

skimming it once, put in the crab apples, adding a little
cochineal powder rubbed with a knife into a very small quan-
tity of white brandy till it has dissolved. This will greatly
improve the colour of the apples. Cover them and let them
boil till clear and tender, skimming the syrup when necessary.
Then spread them out on dishes, and when they are cold, put
them into glass jars and pour the syrup over them.

The flavour will be greatly improved by boiling with them

250 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

in the syrup, a due proportion of lemon-juice and the peel of
the lamons pared thin so as to have the yellow part only. If
you use lemon-juice put a smaller quantity of water to the
sugar. Allow one large lemon or two smaller ones to two
pounds of crab apples.

If you find that after they have been kept awhile, the syrup

*•'

inclines to become dry or candied, give it another boil with
the crab apples in it, adding a tea-cup full of water to about
three or four pounds of the sweetmeat.

•TO PRESERVE GREETS" GAGES.

TAKE large fine green gages that are all perfectly ripe.
Weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow a pound

B

and a half of loaf-sugar. Put a layer of fresh vine leaves at
the bottom of a porcelain preserving kettle, place on.it a layer
of gages, then cover them with a layer of vine leaves, and so
on alternately, finishing with a layer of leaves at the top.
Fill up the kettle with hard water, and set it over a slow fire.
When the gages rise to the top, take them out and peel them,
putting them on a sieve as you do so. Then replace them ia
the kettle with fresh vine leaves and water ; cover them very
closely, so that no steam can escape, and hang them up at
some distance above the fire to green slowly for six hours.
They should be warm all the time, but must, not boil. When
they are a fine green, take them carefully out, spread them
on a hair sieve to drain, and make a syrup of the sugar, allow-
ing a half pint of water to each pound and a half of sugar.
When it has boiled and been skimmed, put in the green
gages and boil them gently for a quarter of an hour. Then
take them out and spread them to cool. Next day boil them

SWEETMEATS. 257

in the same syrup for another quarter of an hour. When cold,
put them into glass jars with the symp, and tie them up with
brandy paper.

You may green these, or any other sweetmeats, by substi-
tuting for the vine-leaves, layers of the fresh green husks that
inclose the ears of young indian corn.

TO PRESERVE PLUMS.— Take fine ripe plums: weigh
them, and to each pound allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar.
Put them into a pan, and scald them in boiling water to make
the skins come off easily. Peel them, and throw them as you do
so into a large china pitoher. Let them set for an hour or two,
and then take them out, saving all the juice that has exuded
from them while in the pitcher. Spread the plums out on
large dishes, and cover them with half the sugar you have
allotted to them, (it must be previously powdered,) and let
them lie in it all night. Next morning pour the juice out of
the pitcher "into a porcelain preserving kettle, add the last
half of the sugar to it, and let it n\elt over the fire. When it
has boiled skim it, and then put in the plums. Boil them
over a moderate fire, for about half an hour. Then take them
out one by one with a spoon, and spread them on large dishes
to cool. If the syrup is not sufficiently thick and clear, boil
and skim it a little longer till it is. Put the plums into glass
jars and pour the syrup warm over them.

The flavour will be much improved by boiling in the syrup
with the fruit a handful or more of the kernels of plums,
blanched in scalding water and broken in half. Take the
kernels out of the syrup before you pour it into the jars.

You may preserve plums whole, without peeling, by prick
ing them deeply at each end with a large needle.

Green gages and damsons may be preserved according to
this receipt. 22*

258 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

PLUMS FOR COMMON USE.— Take fine ripe plums,
and cut them in half. Extract all the stones, and spread out
the plums on large dishes. Set the dishes on the sunny roof
of a porch or shed, and let the plums have the fall benefit of
.me sun for three or four days, taking them in as :soon as it is
off, or if the sky becomes cloudy. This will half dry them.
Then pack them closely in stone jars with a thick layer of the
> best brown sugar between every layer of plums; putting
plenty f of sugar at the bottom and top of the jars. Cover
them closely, and set them away in a dry place.

If they have been properly managed, they will keep a year;
and are very good for pies and other purposes, in the winter
and spring.

Peaches may be prepared for keeping in the same manner.

EGG PLUMS WHOLE.— Take large egg plums that are
all quite ripe, and prick them all over with a small silver
fork. Leave on the stems. To four pounds of "plums allow
four pounds and a half of loaf-sugar, broken small or pow-
dered. Put the plums and sugar into a preserving kettle, and
pour in one quart of clear hard water. Hang the kettle
over a moderate fire, and boil and skim it. As soon as the
skin begins to crack or shrivel, take out the plums one at a
time, (leaving the syrup on the fire,) and spread them on
large dishes to cool. Place them in the open air, and as soon
as they are cool enough to be touched with your fingers, smooth
the skin down where it is broken or ruffled. When quite
cold, return them to the syrup, (which in the mean time must
have been kept slowly simmering,) and boil the plums again
till they are quite clear, but not till they break. Put them
warm into large glass or queen's-ware jars, and pour the
syrup over them.

S W K E T 7vl E A T S.

TO PRESERVE PEARS.

TAKE large fine juicy pears that are all perfectly ripe, and
pare them smoothly and thin ; leaving on the stems, bui cut-
ting out the bkck top at the blossom end of the fruit. As you
pare them, lay them in a pan of cold water. Make a thin
syrup, allowing a quart of water to a pound of loaf-sugar. Sim-
mer the pears in it for about half an hour. Then put them
into a tureen, and let them lie in the syrup for two days.
There must be syrup enough to cover them well. After two
days, drain the syrup from the pears, and add to it more sugar.
in the proportion of a pound to each pint of the thin syrup.
Stir in a very little beaten white of egg, (not more than one
white to three or four pounds of sugar,) add some fresh lemon-
peel pared thin, and set the syrup over a brisk fire. Boil it
for ten minutes, and skim it well. Then add sufficient lemon-
juice to flavour it ; and put in the pears. Simmer them in the
strong syrup till they are quite transparent. Then take them
out, spread them to cool, and stick a clove in the blossom end
of each. Put them into glass jars ; and having kept the syrup
warm over the fire while the pears were cooling, pour it over
them.

If you wish to have them red, add a little powdered cochi-
neal to the strong syrup when you put in your pears.

BAKED PEARS.— The best for baking are the large late
ones, commonly called pound pears. Pare them, cut them in
half, and take out the cores. Lay them in a deep white dish,
with a thin slip of fresh lemon-peel in the place from which
each core was taken. Sprinkle them with sugar, and strew
some whole cloves or some powdered cinnamon among them.
Pour into the dish some port wine. To a dozen large pears

200 DIRECTIONS FOR COO K I N G.

you may allow one pound of sugar, and a pir.t of wine.
Cover the dish with a large sheet of brown paper tied on; set
it in a moderate oven, and let them bake till tender all through,
which you may ascertain by sticking a broom twig through
them. They will be done in about an hour, or they may pro-
bably require more time ; but you must not let them remain
long- enough in the oven to break or fall to pieces*. When
cool, put them up in a stone jar. In cold weather they will
keep a week.

To bake smaller pears, pare them, but leave on the stems,
and do not core them. Put them into a deep dish with fresh
lemon or orange-peel ; throw on them some brown sugar or
molasses ; pour in at the bottom a little water to keep them
from burning ; and bake them till tender throughout.

TO PRESERVE GOOSEBERRIES.

THE best way of preserving gooseberries is with jelly. They
should be- full grown but green. Take six quarts of goose-
berries, and select three quarts of the largest and finest to pre-
serve whole, reserving the others for the jelly. Put the whole
ones into a pan with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer
them slowly till they begin to be tender ; but do not keep
them on the fire till they are likely to burst. Take them out
carefully with a perforated skimmer to drain the warm water
from them, and lay them directly in a pan of cold water. Put
those that you intend for the jelly into a stew-pan, allowing to
each quart of gooseberries half a pint of water. Boil them fast
till '.hey go all to pieces, and stir and mash them with a spoon.
Then put them into a jelly-bag'that has been first dipped in
hot water, and squeeze through it all the juice. Measure the

SWEETMEATS. 26)

juice, and to each pint allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar.
Break up the sugar, and put it into a preserving kettle ; pour
the juice over it, and let it stand to melt, stirring it frequently.
When it has all dissolved, set it over the fire, put the goose-
berries into it, and let them boil twenty minutes, or till they
are quite clear, and till the jelly is thicB: and congeals in the
spoon when you hold it in the air. If the gooseberries seem
likely to break, take them out carefully, and let the jelly boil
by itself till it is finished. When all is done, put up the
gooseberries and the jelly together in glass jars.

Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, currants or any small fruit
may in a similar manner be preserved in jelly.

TO STEW GOOSEBERRIES.— Top and tail them.
POUT some boiling water on the gooseberries, cover them up,
and let them set about half an hour, or till the skin is quite
tender, but not till it bursts, as that will make the juice run
out into the water. Then'pour off the water, and mix with
the gooseberries an equal quantity of sugar. Put them into a
porcelain stew-pan or skillet, and set it on hot coals, or on a
charcoal furnace. In a few minutes you may begin to mash
them against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon. Let
them stew about half an hour, stirring them frequently. They
must be quite cold before they are used for any thing.

GOOSEBERRY FOOL.— Having stewed two quarts of
gooseberries in the above manner, stir, them as soon as they
are cold into a quart of rich boiling milk. Grate in a nutmeg,
and covering the pan, let the gooseberries simmer in the milk
for five minutes. Then stir in the beaten yolks of two or three
eggs, and immediately remove it from the fire. Keep on the
cover a few minutes longer ; then turn out the mixture into a

202 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

deep dish or a glass bowlj and set it away to get cold, before it
goes to table. Eat it with sponge-cake. It will probably
tequire additional "sugar, stirred in at the last.

Gooseberries prepared in this manner make a very good pud-
ding, with the addition of a little grated bread. Use both
whites and yolks of the eggs. Stir the mixture well, and bake
it in a deep dish. Eat it cold, with sugar grated over it.

TO BOTTLE GOOSEBERRIES.-For this purpose the

gooseberries must be large and full grown, but quite green.
Top and tail them, and put them into wide-mouthed bottles as
far up as the beginning of the neck. Cover the bottom of a
large boiler or kettle with sawr-dust or straw. Stand the bot-
tles of gooseberries (slightly corked) upright in the boiler, and
ftour round them cold water to each, as far up as the fruit.
Put a brisk fire under the boiler, and when the water boils up,
instantly take out the bottles and fill them up to the mouth
with boiling water, which you must have ready in a tea-kettle.
Cork them again slightly, and when quite cold put in the
corks very tight and seal them. Lay the bottles on their sides
in a box of dry sand, and turn them every day for four or five
weeks. If properly managed, the gooseberries will keep a
year, "and may be used at any time, by stewing them with
sugar.

You may bottle damsons in the same manner ; also grapes.

PRESERVED RASPBERRIES.

TaKE a quantity of ripe raspberries, and set aside the half,
selecting for that purpose the largest and firmest. Then put
the remainder into your preserving pan, mash them, and set

SWEETMEATS. . 263

A

them over the fire. As soon as they have come to a boil, take
them out, let them cool, and then squeeze them through a

bag.

\Vhile they are cooling, prepare your sugar, which must be
fine loaf. Allow a pound of sugar to every quart of whole
raspberries. Having washed the kettle clean, put the sugar
into it, allowing half a pint of cold water to two pounds of
sugar. "When it has melted in the water, put it on the fire, and
boil it till the scum ceases to rise, and it is a thick syrup ;
taking care to skim it well. Then put in the whole raspberries,
and boil them rapidly a few minutes, but not long enough to
cause them to burst. Take them out with a skimmer full of
holes, and spread them on a large dish to cool. Then mix
with the syrup the juice of those you boiled first, and let it
boil about ten or fifteen minutes. Lastly, put in the whole
fruit, and give it one more boil, seeing that it does not break.

Put it warm into glass jars or tumblers, and when quite
cold cover it closely with paper dipped in brandy, tying
another paper tightly over it. •

Strawberries may be done in the same manner ; blackberries
also.

RASPBERRY JAM.— Take fine raspberries that are per-
fectly ripe. Weigh tham, and to each pound of fruit allow
three quarters of a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Mash the rasp-
berries, and break up the sugar. Then mix them together,
and put them into a preserving kettle over a good fire. Stu
them frequently and skim them. The jam will be done in halt
an hour. Put it warm into glasses, and lay on the top a white
paper cut exactly to fit the inside, and dipped in brandy Then
tie on another cover of very thick white paper.

Make blackberry jam in the same manner.

*

264 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

0

TO PRESERVE CRANBERRIES.— The cranberries
must be large and ripe. Wash them, and to six quarts of cran-
berries allow nine pounds of the best loaf sugar. Take
three quarts of the cranberries, and put them into a stew-pan
with a pint and a half of water. Cover the pan, and boil or
stew them till they are all to pieces. Then squeeze the juice
ill-rough a jelly-bag. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle,
pour the cranberry juice over it and let it stand till it is all
melted, stirring it up frequently. Then place the kettle over
tne fire, and put in the remaining three quarts of whole cranber-
ries. Let them boil till they are tender, clear, and of a bright
colour, skimming them frequently. When done, put them warm
into jars with the syrup, which should be like a thick jelly.

RED CURRANT JELLY.— The currants should be per-
fectly ripe and gathered on a dry day. Strip them from the
stalks, and put them into a -stone jar. Cover the jar, and set
it up to the neck in a kettle of boiling water. Keep the watei
boiling round the jar till the currants are all broken, stirring
them up occasionally. Then put them into a jelly-bag, and
'squeeze out all the juice. To each pint of juice allow a pound
and a quarter of the best loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a por-
celain kettle, pour the juice over it, and stir it frequently till it
is all melted. Then set the kettle over a moderate fire, and
let it boil twenty minutes, or till you find that the jelly con-
geals in the spoon when you hold it in the air ; skim it care-
fully all the time. When the jelly is done, pour it warm into
tumblers, and cover each with two rounds of white tissue
paper, cut to fit exactly the inside of the glass.

Jelly of gooseberries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, bar-
berries, blackberries, grapes, and other small fruit may all be
made in this manner.

SWEETMEATS. 265

WHITE CURRANT JELLY. — The currants should be
quite ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Having stripped them
from the stalks, put them into a close stone jar, and set it
'in a kettle of boiling water. When all the currants are
broken, take them out and strain them through a linen cloth.
To each pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of the best
double refined loaf-sugar; break it small, and put it in^o a
porcelain preserving pan with barely sufficient water to melt
it ; not quite half a pint to a pound and a quarter of sugar ; it
must be either clear spring water or river water filtered. Stir
up the sugar while it is dissolving, and when all is melted,
put it over a brisk fire, and boil and skim it till clear and
thick. When the scum ceases to rise, put in the white currant
juice and boil it fast for ten minutes. Then put it warm into
tumblers, and when it is cold, cover it with double white
tissue paper.

In making this jelly, use only a silver spoon, and carefully
observe all the above precautions, that it may be transparent
and delicate. If it is not quite clear and bright when done
boiling, you may run it again through a jelly-bag.

•White raspberry jelly may be prepared in the same manner.
A very nice sweetmeat is made of white raspberries preserved
whole, by putting them in white currant jelly during the
ten minutes that you are boiling the juice with the syrup. You
may also preserve red raspberries whole, by boiling them in
red currant jelly.

BLACK CURRANT JELLY.— Take large ripe black
currants ; strip them from the stalks, and mash them with the
back of a ladle. Then uut them into a preserving kettle with
a tumbler of water to each quart of currants; cover it

closely, set it over a moderate fire, and when the currants have

23

266 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

come to a boil, take them out, and squeeze them through a
jelly -bag. To each pint of juice you may allow about a
pound of loaf-sugar, and (having washed the preserving kettle
perfectly clean) put in the sugar with the juice; stir them
together till well mixed and dissolved, and then boil it not
longer than ten minutes ; as the juice of black currants being
very thick will come to a jelly very soon, and if boiled too
long will be tough and ropy.

Black currant jelly is excellent for sore throats ; and if eaten
freely on the first symptoms of the disease, will frequently
check it without any other remedy. It would be well for all
families «to keep it in the house.

GRAPE JELLY. — Take ripe juicy grapes, pick them from
the stems ; put them into a large earthen pan, and mash them
with the back of a wooden ladle, or with a potato beetle. Put
them into a kettle, (without any water,) cover them closely,
and let them boil for a quarter of an hour ; stirring them up
occasionally from the bottom. Then squeeze them through a
jelly-bag, and to each pint of juice allow a pound of loaf-sugar.
Dissolve the sugar in the grape juice ; then put it over a quick
fire in a preserving kettle, and boil and skim it twenty minutes.
When it is a clear thick jelly, take it off, put it warm into
tumblers, and cover them with double tissue paper cut to fit
the inside.

In the same manner you may make an excellent jelly for
common use, of ripe fox grapes and the best brown sugar ;
mixing with the sugar before it goes on the fire, a little beaten
white of egg; allowing two whites to two pounds of sugar.

BRANDY "GRAPE S.—Take some large close bunches
of fine grapes, (they must be quite ripe,) and allow to

SWEETMEATS. 267

each bunch a quarter of a pound of bruised sugar candy. Put
the grapes and the sugar candy into large jars, (about two-
thirds full,) and fill thefh up with French brandy. Tie them
up closely, and keep them in a dry place. Morella cherries
may be done in the same manner,.

Foreign grapes are kept in bunches, laid lightly in earthen
jars of dry saw-dust.

TO KEEP WILD GRAPES— Gather the small black
wild grapes late in the season, after they have been ripened by
a frost. Pick them from the stems, and put them into stone
j-ars, (two-thirds full,) with layers of brown sugar, and fill
them up with cold molasses. They will keep all winter ; and
they make good common pies. If they incline to ferment in
the jars, give them a boil with additional sugar.

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES.

N

STRAWBERRIES for preserving should be large and ripe.
They will keep best if gathered in dry weather, when there
has been no rain for at least two days. Having hulled, or
picked off the green, select the largest and firmest, and spread
them out separately on flat dishes ; having first weighed
them, and allowed to each pound of strawberries a pound of
po\vdered loaf-sugar. Sift half the sugar over them,; Then
take the inferior strawberries that were left, and those that
are over-ripe ; mix with them an equal quantity of powdered
sugar, and mash them. Put them into a basin covered with
a plate, and set them over the fire in a pan of boiling water,
till they become a thick juice; then strain it through a bag,

268 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

and mix with it the other half of the sugar that you have
allotted to the strawberries, which are to be done whole. Put
it into fi porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it till the scum
ceases to rise ; then put in the whole strawberries with the
sugar in which they have been lying, and all the juice that
may have exuded from them. Set them over the fire in the
syrup, just long enough to heat them a little; and in a few
minutes take them out, one by one, with a tea-spoon, and
spread them on dishes to cool ; not allowing them to touch
each other. Then take off what scum may arise from the
additional sugar. Repeat this several times, taking out the
strawberries and cooling them till they become quite clear.
They must not be allowed to boil ; and if they seem likely to
break, they should be instantly and finally taken from the fire.
When quite cold, put them with the syrup into tumblers, or
into white queen's-ware pots. If intended to keep a long
time it will be well to put at the top a layer of apple jelly.

TO PRESERVE CHERRIES.

TAKE large ripe morella cherries ; weigh them, and to each
pound allow a pound of loaf-sugar. .Stone the cherries, (open-
ing them writh a sharp quill,) and save the juice that comes
from them in the process. As you stone them, throw them-
into a4arge pan or tureen, and strew about half the sugar over
them, and let them lie in it an hour or two after they are all
stoned. Then put them into a preserving kettle with the re-
mainder of the sugar, and boil and skim them till the fruit is
clear and the syrup thick.

SWEETMEATS. 269

CITRON MELON SLICES.— Take some fine citron me-
lons ; pare, core, and cut them into long broad slices. Weigh
them, and to every six pounds of melon allow six pounds of fine

*

loaf-sugar ; and the juice and yellow rind (pared off very thin)
of four lemons ; also, half a pound of race (root) ginger. Put
the slices of melon into a preserving-kettle ; cover them with
strong alum water, and boil them half an hour, or longer, till
they are quite clear and lender. Then drain them, lay them
in a broad vessel of cold water, cover them and let them stand
all night. Next morning, tie up the race ginger in a piece of
thin muslin, and boil it in three pints of clear spring or pump
ivater, till the water is highly flavoured. Having broken up

•

the sugar, put it into a clean preserving-kettle, and pour the
ginger water over it. When the sugar is all melted, set it
over the fire, add the lemon parings, and boil and skim it, till

•

no more scum rises. Then take out the lemon peel, stir in the
juice, and put in the citron slices. Boil them in the syrup till
they are transparent and soft, but not till they break. When
done, put the citron slices and syrup into a large tureen, set it
in a dry, cool, dark place, and leave it uncovered for two or
three days. Then put the slices carefully into wide-mouthed
glass jars, and gently pour in the syrup. Lay inside the top
of each jar a double white tissue paper cut exactly to fit, and
close the jars carefully with corks and cement. This will be
found a delicious sweetmeat. _

CHERRY JELLY.— Take fine juicy red chefts, and
stone them. Save half the stones, crack them, and extract the
kernels. Put the cherries and the kernels into a preserving
kettle over a slow fire, and let them boil gently in their juice for
half an hour. Then transfer them to a jelly-bag, and squeeze
out the juice. Measure it, and to each pint allow a pound of fine

23*

270 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the jiiice, and then boil and
skim it for twenty or thirty minutes. Put it up in tumblers
covered with tissue paper.

CHERRY JAM. — To each pound of cherries allow three
quarters of a pound of the best white sugar. Stone them,
and as you do so throw the sugar gradually into the pan with
them. Cover them and let them set all night. Next day, boil
them slowly till the cherries and sugar form a thick smooth
mass. Put it up in queen's-ware jars.

TO DRY CHERRIES.— Choose the finest and largest red
cherries for this purpose. Stone them, and spread them on
large dishes in the sun, till they become quite dry,' taking
them in as soon as the sun is off, or if the sky becomes cloudy.
Put them up in stone jars, strewing among them some of the
best brown sugar.

The common practice of drying cherries with the stones in,
(to save trouble,) renders them so inconvenient to eat, that
they are of little use, when" done in that manner.

With the stones extracted, dried cherries will be found
very good for common pies.

BARBERRY JELLY.— Take ripe barberries, and having
etrippejjthem from the stalks, mash them, and boil them in
iheir pRe for a quarter of an hour. Then squeeze them
through a bag; allow to each pint of juice, a pound of loaf-
sugar ; and having melted the sugar in the juice, boil them
together twenty or twenty-five minutes, skimming carefully.
Tut it up in tumblers with tissue paper.

SWEETMEATS. 271

FROSTED FRUIT.— Take large ripe cherries, plums,
apricots, or grapes, and cut off half the stalk. Have ready
in one dish some beaten white of egg, and in another some
fine loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted. Dip the fruit first into
the white of egg, and then roll it one by one in the pow-
dered sugar. Lay a sheet of white paper on the bottom of a
reversed sieve, set it -on a stove or in some other warm
place, and spread the fruit on the paper till the icing is
hardened.

PEACH LEATHER.— To six pounds of ripe peaches,
(pared and quartered,) allow three pounds of the best brown
sugar. Mix them together, and put them into a preserving
kettle, with barely water enough to keep them from burning.
Pound and mash them a while with a wooden beetle. Then
boil and skim them for three hours or more, stirring them
nearly all the time. When done, spread them thinly on large
dishes, and set them in the sun for three or four days. Finish
the drying by loosening the peach leather on the dishes, and
setting them in the oven after the bread is taken out, letting
them remain till the oven is cold. -Roll up the peach leathei
and put it away in a box.

Apple leather may be made in the same manner.

RHUBARB JAM, — Peel the rhubarb stalks and cut them
into, small square pieces. Then weigh them, anafe to each
pound allow three quarters of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Put the sugar and the rhubarb into a large, deep, $hite pan,
in alternate layers, the top layer to be of sugar — cover it, apd
let it stand all night. In the morning, put it into a preserving
kettle, and boil it slowly till the whole is dissolved into a thick
mass, stirring it frequently, and skimming it before every stir-
ring. Put it warm into glass jars, and tie it up with brandy
paper.

272

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC.

THE BEST PLAIN PASTE.

ALL paste should be made in a very cool place, as heat ren
ders it heavy. It is far more difficult to get it light in summer
than in winter. A marble slab is much better to roll it on than
A paste-board. It will be improved in lightness by washing the
butter in very cold water, and squeezing and .pressing out all
the salt, as salt is injurious to paste. In New York and in
ihe Eastern states, it is customary, in the dairies, to put more
salt in what is called fresh butter, than in New Jersey, Penn-
sylvania, and Delaware. This butter, therefore, should al-
ways undergo the process of washing and squeezing before it'
is used for pastry or cakes. None but the very best butter
should be taken for those purposes; as any unpleasant taste
is always increased by baking. Potted butter never makes
good paste. As pastry is by no means an article of absolute
necessity, it is better not to have it at all, than to make it
badly, and of inferior ingredients ; few things being more
unwholesome than hard, heavy dough. The flour for paste
should always be superfine.

You may bake paste in deep dishes or in soup plates. For
shells ilfBit are to be baked empty, and afterwards filled with
stewed fruit or sweetmeats, deep plates of block tin with
broad edges are best. If you use patty-pans, the more flat
they are the better. Paste always rises higner and is more
perfectly light and flaky, when unconfined at the sides wrhile
baking. That it may be easily taken out, the dishes or tins
should be well buttered.

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 273

To make a nice plain paste, — sift three pints of superfine
flour, by rubbing it through a sieve into a deep pan. Divide
a pound of fresh butter into four quarters. Cut up one quarter
into the flour, and rub it fine with your hands. Mix in, gra-
dually, as much 'cold water as will make a tolerably stiff
dough, and then knead it slightly. Use as little water as
possible or the paste will be tough. Sprinkle a little flour on
ycur paste-board, lay the lump of dough upon it, and knead it
a very short time. Flour it, and roll it out into a verv thin

•

sheet, always rolling from you. Flour your rolling-pm to
prevent its sticking. Take a second quarter of the butter, and
with your thumb, spread it all over the sheet of paste. If youi

X

hand is warm, use a knife instead of your thumb ; for if the
butter oils, the paste will be -heavy. When you have put on
the layer of butter, sprinkle it with a very little flour, and with
your hands roll up the paste as you would a sheet of paper.
Then flatten it with a rolling-pin, and roll it out a second time
into a thin sheet. Cover it with another layer of butter, as
before, and again roll it up into a scroll. Flatten it again, put
on the last layer of butter, flour it slightly, and again roll up the
sheet. Then cut the scroll into as many pieces as you want
sheets for your dishes or patty-pans. Roll out each piece
almost an inch thick. Flour your dishes, lay the paste lightly
on them, notch the edges, and bake it a light brown. The
oven must be moderate! If it is too hot, the paste will bake
before it has risen sufficiently. If too cold, it will scarcely
rise at all, and will be white and clammy. When you begin
to make paste in this manner, do not quit it till it is ready for
the oven. It must always be baked in a close oven where no
air can reach it.

The best rolling-pins, are those that are straight, and as
thick at the ends as in the middle. They should be held by

274 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

the handles, and the longer the handles the more convenient*
The common rolling-pins that decrease in size towards the
ends, are much less effective, and more tedious, as they can
roll so little at a time ; the extremities not pressing on the
dough at all.

All pastry is best when fresh. . After the first day it loses
much of its lightness, and is therefore more unwholesome.

COMMON PIE CRUST.-— Sift two quarts of superfine
flour, into a pan. Divide one pound of fresh butter into two
equal parts, and cut up. one half in the flour, rubbing it fine.
Mix it with a very little cold water, and make it into a round
lump. Knead it a little. Then flour your paste-board, and
roll the dough out into a large ijim sheet. Spread it all over
with the remainder of the butter. Flour it, fold it up, and roll
it out again. Then fold it again, or roll it into a scroll. Cut
it into as many pieces as you want sheets of paste, and roll
each not quite an inch thick. Butter your pie-dish.

This paste will do for family use, when covered pies are
wanted. Also for apple dumplings, pot-pies, &c.; though
all boiled paste is best when made of suet instead of butter.
Short cakes may be made of this, cut out with the edge of a
tumbler. It should always be eaten fresh.

SUET PASTE. — Having removed the skin and stringy
fibres from a pound of beef suet, chop it as fine as possible.
Sift two quarts cf flour into a deep pan, and rub into it one
half of the suet. Make it into a round lump of dough, with
cold water, and then knead it a little. Lay the dough on your
paste-board, roll it out very thin, and cover it with the remain-
ing half of the suet. Flour it, roll it out thin again, and then

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 275

roll it into a scroll. Cut it into as many pieces as you want
sheets of paste, and roll them out half an inch thick.

Suet paste should always be boiled. It is good for plain
puddings that are made of apples, gooseberries, blackberr es or
other fruit ; and for dumplings. If you use it for pot-pie, roll
it the last time rather thicker than if wanted for any other pur-
pose. If properly made, it will be light and flaky, and the
suet imperceptible. If the suet is minced very fine, and tho-
roughly incorporated with the flour, not the slightest lump
will appear when the paste comes to table.

The suet must not be melted before it is used ; but merely
minced as fine as possible and mixed cold with the flour.

If for dumplings to eat with boiled mutton, the dough must
be rolled out thick, and cut out of the size you want them,
with a tin, or with the edge of a cup or tumbler.

DRIPPING PASTE — To a pound of fresh beef-dripping,
that has been nicely clarified, allow two pounds and a quarter
of flour. Put the flour into a large pan, and mix the dripping
with it, rubbing it into the flour with your hands till it is
thoroughly incorporated. Then make it into a stiff dough with
a little cold water, and roll it out twice. This may be used
for common meat pies.

LARD PASTE. — Lard for paste should never be used
without an equal quantity of butter. Take half a pound of
nice lard, and half a pound of fresh butter ; rub them together
into two pounds and a quarter of flour, and mix it with a little
cold water to a stiff dough. Roll it out twice. Use it for
common pies. Lard should always be kept in tin.

276 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

POTATO PASTE.— To a pint and a half of flour, allow
fourteen large potatoes. Boil the potatoes till they are tho-
roughly done throughout. Then peel, and mash them very
fine. Rub them through a cullender.

Having sifted the flour into a pan, add the potatoes gra-
dually; rubbing them well into the flour with your hands.
Mix in sufficient cold -vVater to make a stiff dough. Roll it out
evenly, and you may use it for apple dumplings, boiled spple
pudding, beef-steak pudding, &c.

Potato paste must be sent to table quite hot ; as soon as it
cools it becomes tough and heavy. It is unfit for baking ; and
even when boiled is less light than suet paste.

FINE PUFF PASTE.— To every pound of the best fresh
butter allow a pound or a quart of superfine flour. Sift the
flour into a deep pan, and then sift on a plate some additional
flour to use for sprinkling and rolling. Wash the butter
through two cold waters ; squeezing out all the salt, and what-
ever milk may remain in it ; and then make it up with your
hands into a round lump, and put it in ice till you are ready to
use it. Then divide the butter into four equal parts. Cut up
one of the quarters into the pan of flour; and divide the re-
maining three quarters into six pieces,* cutting each quarter
in half. Mix with a knife the flour and butter that is in the
pan, adding by degrees a veiy little cold water till you have
made it into a lump of stiff dough. Then sprinkle some flour
on the paste-board, (you should have a marble slab,) take the

•

dough from the pan by lifting it out with the knife, lay it on
the board, and flouring your rolling-pin, roll out the paste into
a large thin sheet. Then with the knife, put all over it, at

* Or into nine ; and roll it in that number of times.

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 277

equal distances, one of the six pieces of butter divided into
small bits. Fold up the sheet of paste, flour it, roll it out
attain, and add in the same manner another of the portions of
butter. Repeat this process till the butter is all in. Then
fold it once more, lay it on a plate, and set it in a cool placo
till you are ready to use it. Then divide it into as many
pieces as you want sheets of paste ; roll out each sheet, and
put them into buttered plates or patty-pans. In using the
rolling-pin, observe always to roll from you. Bake the paste
in a moderate oven, but rather quick than slow. No air must
be admitted to it while baking-.

The edges of paste should always be notched before it goes
into the oven. For this purpose, use a sharp penknife, dipping
it frequently in flour as it becomes sticky. The notches
should be even and regular. If you do them imperfectly at
first, they cannot be mended by sticking on additional bits of
paste ; as, when baked, every patch will be doubly conspicu-
ous. There are various ways of notching ; one of the neatest
is to fold over one corner of. each notch; or you may arrange
the notches to stand upright and lie flat, alternately, all round
the edge. They should be made small and regular. You
may form the edge into leaves with the little tin cutters made
for the purpose.

If the above directions for puff paste are carefully followed,
and if it is not spoiled in baking, it will rise to a great thick-
ness and appear in flakes or leaves according to the number
of times you have put in the butter.

It should be eaten the day it is baked.

SWEET PASTE.— Sift a pound and a quarter of the
finest flour, and three ounces of powdered loaf-sugar into a
deep dish. Cut up in it one pound of the best fresh butter,

24

278 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

and rub it fine with your hands. Make a hole in the middle,
poui in the yolks of two beaten eggs, and mix them with
the flour, &c. Then wet the whole to a stiff paste with
half a pint of rich milk. Knead it well, and roll it out.

This paste is intended for tarts of the finest sweetmeats
If used as shells, they should be baked empty, and filled when
cool. Jf made into covered tarts, they may be iced all over,
in the manner of cakes, with beaten white *of egg and pow-
dered loaf-sugar. To make puffs of it, roll it out and cut it
into round pieces with the edge of a large tumbler, or with a
tin cutter. Lay the sweetmeat on one half of the paste, fold
the other over it in the form of a half-moon, and unite the
edges by notching them together. Bake them in a brisk oven,
and when tool, send them to table handsomely arranged,
several on a dish.

Sweet paste is'rarely used except for very handsome enter-
tainments. You may add some rose water in mixing it.

SHELLS, — Shells of paste are made of one sheet each,
rolled out in a circular form, and spread over the bottom,
sides, and edges of buttered dishes or patty-pans, and baked
empty ; to be filled, when cool, with stewed fruit, (which for
this purpose should be always cold,) or with sweetmeats,
They should be made either of fine puff paste, or of the best
plaio paste, or of sweet paste. They are generally rolled out
rather thick, and will require about half an hour to bake. The
oven should be rather quick, and of equal heat throughout ; if
hotter in one part than in another, the paste will draw to one
side, and be warped and disfigured. The shells should be
baked of a light brown. When cool, they must be taken out
of the dishes on which they were baked, and transferred to
plates, and filled with the fruit.

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 279

Shells of puff paste will rise best if baked on flat patty-pans,
or tin plates.. When they are cool, pile the sweetmeats on
them in a heap.

The thicker and higher -the paste rises, and the more it
flakes in layers or leaves, the finer it is considered.

Baking paste as empty shells, prevents it from being moist
or clammy at the bottom.

Tarts are small shells with fruit in them.

PIES. — Pies may be made with any sort of paste. It is a
fault to roll it out too thin ; for if it has not sufficient sub-
stance, it will, when baked, be dry and tasteless. For a pie,
divide the paste into two sheets; spread one of them over the
bottom and sides of a deep dish well buttered. Next put in the
fruit or other ingredients, (heaping it higher in the centre,)
and then place the other sheet of paste en the top as a lid or
cover; pressing the edges closely down, and afterwards
crimping or notching them with a sharp small knife.

In making pies of juic~y fruit, it is well to put on the centre
*of the under crust a common tea-cup, laying the fruit round it
and 'over it. The juice will collect under the cup, and not be
liable to run out from between the edges. There should be
plenty of sugar strewed. among the fruit as you put it into the pie.

Preserves should never be put into covered pies. The
proper way is to lay them in baked shells.

f

All pies are. best the day they are baked. If kept twenty-
four hours the paste falls and becomes comparatively hard,
heavy, and unwholesome. If the fruit is not ripe, it should
"be stewed, sweetened, and allowed to get cold before it is put
into the pie. If put in warm it will make the paste heavy.
"With fruit pies always have a sugar dish on the table in case
they should not be found sweet enough.

280 DIRECTIONS FORCOOKING.

STANDING PIES.— Cut up half a pound of butter, and
put it into a sauce-pan with three quarters of a pint of water ;
cover it, and set it on hot coals. Have ready in a pan two
pounds of sifted flour; make a hole in the middle of it, pour
in the melted butter as soon as it boils, and then with a spoon
gradually mix in the flour. When it is well mixed, knead it
with your hands into a stiff dough. Sprinkle your paste-board
with flour, lay the dough upon it, and continue to knead it
with your hands till it no longer sticks to them, and is quite
light. Then let it stand an hour to cool. Cut off pieces for
the bottom and top ; roll them out thick, and roll out a long
piece for the sides or walls of the pie, which you must fix on
the bottom so as to stand up all round ; cement them together
with white of egg, pinching and closing them firmly. Then
put in the ingredients of your pie, (which should be venison,
game, or poultry,) and lay on the lid or top crust, pinching
the edges closely together. You may ornament the sides and
top with leaves or flowers of paste, shaped with a tin cutter,
and notch or scollop the edges handsomely. Before you set
it in the oven glaze it all over with white of egg. Bake it.
four hours. These pies are always eaten cold, and in winter
will keep two or three weeks, if the air is carefully excluded
from them ; and they may be carried to a considerable
distance.

A PYRAMID OF TARTS.— Roll out a sufficient quantity
of the best puff paste, or sugar paste ; and with oval or circu-
lar cutters, cut it out into seven or eight pieces of different
sizes ; stamping the middle of each with the cutter you intend
using for the next. Bake them all separately, and when they
aie cool, place them on a dish in a pyramid, (gradually dimi-
nishing in size,) the largest piece at the bottom, and the

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 281

smallest at the top. Take various preserved fruits, and lay
some of the largest on the lower piece of paste ; on the next
place fruit that is rather smaller ; and so on till you finish at
the top with the smallest sweetmeats you have. The upper
one may be not so large as a half-dollar, containing only a
single raspberry or strawberry.

Notch all the edges handsomely. You may ornament the
top or pinnacle of the pyramid with a sprig of orange blossom
or myrtle.

APPLE AND OTHER PIES.

TAKE fine juicy acid apples; pare, core, and cut them into
small pieces. Have ready a deep dish that has been lined
with paste. Fill it with the apples ; strewing among them
layers of brown sugar, and adding the rind of a lemon pared
thin, and also the juice squeezed in, or some essence of lemon.
Put on another sheet of paste as a lid ; close the edges well,
and notch them. Bake the pie in a moderate oven, about
three quarters of an hour. Eat it with cream and sugar, 01
with cold boiled custard.

Tf the pie is made of early green apples, they should first
be stewed with a very little water, and then plenty of sugar
stirred in while they are hot.

"What are called sweet apples are entirely unfit for cooking,
as they become tough and tasteless ; and it is almost impos-
sible to get them sufficiently done.

"When you put stewed apples into baked shells, grate nut-
meg over the top. You may cover them with cream whipped
to a stiff froth, and heaped on them.

Cranberries and gooseberries should be stewed, and s.weet-

24*

282 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

ened before they are put into paste ; peaches cut in half or
quartered, and the stones removed. The stones of cherries
and plums should also be extracted.

Raspberries or strawberries, mixed with cream and white
sugar, may be put raw into baked shells.

RHUBARB TARTS.— Take the young green stalks of the
rhubarb plant, or spring fruit as it is called in England ; and
having peeled off the thin skin, cut the stalks into small
pieces about an inch long, and put them into a sauce-pan
with plenty of brown sugar, and its own juice. Cover
it, and let it stew slowly till it is soft enough to mash to a
marmalade. Then set it away to cool. Have ready some

•

fresh baked shells ; fill them with the stewed rhubarb, and
grate white sugar over the top.

For covered pies, cut the rhubarb very small ; mix a great
deal of sugar with it, and put it in raw. Bake the pies about
three quarters of an hour.

MINCE PIES.

THESE pies are always made with covers, and should be
eaten warm. If baked the day before, heat them on the stove
or before the fire.

Mince-meat made early in the winter, and packed closely in
stone jars, will keep till spring, if it has a sufficiency of spico
and liquor. Whenever you take out any for use, pour some
additional brandy into the jar before you cover it again, and
add some more sugar. No mince-meat, however, will keep well
unless all the ingredients are of the best quality. The meal
should always be boiled the day before you want to chop it.

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 283

GOOD MINCE-MEAT— Take a bullock's heart and boil
it, or two pounds of the lean of fresh beef. When it is quite
cold, chop it very fine. Chop three pounds of beef suet
(first removing the skin and strings) and six pounds of large
juicy apples that have been pared and cored. Then stone
six pounds of the best raisins, (or take sultana raisins that
are without stones,) and chop them also. Wash and dry
three pounds of currants. Mix all together ; adding to them
the grated peel and the juice of two or three large oranges,
two table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon, two powdered
nutmegs, and three dozen powdered cloves, a tea-spoonful
of beaten mace, one pound of fine brown sugar, one quart of
Madeira wine, one pint of French brandy, and half a pound
of citron cut into large slips. Having thoroughly mixed the
whole, put it into a stone jar, and tie it up with brandy paper.

THE BEST MINCE-MEAT.— Take a large fresh tongue,
rub it with a mixture, in equal proportions, of salt, brown
sugar, and powdered cloves. Cover it, and let it lie two
days, or at least twenty-four hours. Then boil it' two hours,
and when it is cold, skin it, and mince it very fine. Chop
also three pounds of beef suet, six pounds of sultana raisins,
and six pounds of the best pippin apples that have been pre-
viously pared and cored. Add three pounds of currants,
picked, washed and dried; two large table-spoonfuls of pow-
dered cinnamon; the juice and grated rinds of four large
lemons ; one pound of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter
almonds, blanched and pounded in a mortar with half a
pint of rose water ; also four powdered nutmegs ; two dozen
beaten cloves ; and'a dozen blades of mace powdered. Add
a pound of powdered white sugar, and a pound of citron cut
into slips. Mix all together, and moisten it with a quart

284 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.
I

of Madeira, and a pint of brandy. Put it up closely in a
stone jar with brandy paper ; and when you take any out, add
some more sugar and brandy; and chop some fresh apples.

Bake this mince-meat in puff paste.

You may reserve the citron- to put in when you make the
pies. Do not cut the slips too small, or the taste" will be
almost imperceptible.

VERY PLAIN MINCE -ME AT.— Take a piece of fresh
beef, consisting of about two pounds of lean, and one pound
of fat. Boil it, and when it is quite cold, chop it fine. Or
you may substitute cold roast beef. Pare and core some fine
juicy apples, cut them in pieces, weigh three pounds, and
chop them. Stone four pounds of raisins, and chop them
also. Add a large table-spoonful of powdered cloves, and
the same quantity of powdered cinnamon. Also a pound of
brown sugar. Mix all thoroughly, moistening it with a quart
of bottled or sweet cider. You may add the grated peel and
the juice of an orange.

Bake it in good common paste.

This mince-meat will do very well for children or for family
use, but is too plain to be set before a guest. Neither will
it keep so long as that which is richer and more highly sea-
soned. It is best to make no more of it at once than you
have immediate occasion for.

MINCE-MEAT FOR LENT.— Boil a dozen eggs quite
hard, and chop the yolks very fine. Chop also a dozen
pippins, and two pounds of sultana raisins. Add two pounds
of currants, a pound of sugar, a table-spoonful of powdered
cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of beaten mace, three powdered
nutmegs, the juice and grated peel of three large lemons,

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 285

and half a pound of citron cut in large strips. MJX these
ingredients thoroughly, and moisten the whole with a pint of
white wine, half a pint of rose-water, and half a pint of brandy
Bake it in very nice paste.

These mince pies may be eaten by persons who refrain from
meat in Lent.

ORANGE PUDDING.

GRA.TE the yellow part of the rind, and squeeze the juice of
two large, smooth, deep-coloured oranges. Stir together to a
cream, half a pound of butter, and half a pound of powdered
white sugar, and add a wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy.
Beat very light six eggs, and stir them gradually into the mix-
ture. Put it into a buttered dish with a broad edge, round
which lay a border of puff-paste neatly notched. Bake it half
an hour, and when cool grate white sugar over it.

Send it to table quite cold.

LEMON PUDDING— May be made precisely in the
same manner as the above ; substituting lemons for oranges.

QUINCE PUDDING.— Take six large ripe quinces;
pare them, and cut out all the blemishes. Then scrape them
to a pulp, and mix the pulp with half a pint of cream, and
half a pound of powdered sugar, stirring them together very
hard. Beat the yolks of seven eggs, (omitting all the whites
except two,) and stir them gradually into the mixture, adding
two wine glasses of rose water. Stir the whole well together,
and bake it in a buttered dish three quarters of an hour.
Grate sugar ovpr it when cold.

286 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

If you cannot obtain cream, y_ou may substitute a quarter
of a pound of fresh butter stirred with the sugar and quince.
A baked apple pudding may be made in the same manner.

ALMOND PUDDING.— Take half a pound of shelled
sweet almonds, and three ounces of shelled bitter almonds,
or peach-kernels. Scald and peel them; throwing them,
as they are peeled, into cold water. Then pound them
one at a time in a marble mortar, adding to each a few
drops of rose water ; otherwise they will be heavj and oily.
Mix the sweet and bitter almonds together by pounding them
alternately; and as you do them, take them out and lay them
on a plate. They must each be beaten to a fine smooth paste,
free from the smallest lumps. It is best to prepare them the
day before you make the pudding.

Stir to a cream half a pound of fresh butter and half a
pound of powdered white sugar ; and by degrees pour into it
a glass of mixed wine and brandy. Beat- to a stiff froth, the
whites only, of twelve eggs, (you may reserve the yolks, for
custards or other purposes,) and stir alternately into the butter
and sugar the pounded almonds and the beaten white of egg.
When the whole is well mixed, put it into a buttered dish and
lay puff paste rctmd the edge. Bake it about half an hour,
and when cold grate sugar over it.

ANOTHER ALMOND PUDDING.— Blanch three quar-
ters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of
shelled bitter almonds, and beat them in a mortar to a fine
paste ; mixing them well, and adding by degrees a tea-cup
full, or more, of rose water. Boil in a pint of rich milk, a few
sticks of cinnamon broken up, and a few blades of mace.
When the milk has come to a boil, take it off the fire, strain

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC 287

it into a pan, and soak in it two stale rusks cut into slices.
They must soak till quite dissolved. Stir to a cream three
quarters of a pound of fresh butter, mixed with the same quan-
tity of powdered leaf-sugar. Beat ten eggs very light, yolks
and whites together, and then stir alternately into the butter
and sugar, the rusk, eggs, and almonds. Set it on a stove or a
chafing dish, and stir the whole together till very smooth and
thick. Put it into a buttered dish and bake it three quarters
of an hour. It must be eaten quite cold.

COCOA-NUT PUDDING'.— Having opened a cocoa-nut,
pare off .the 'brown skin from the pieces, and wash them all in
cold water. Then weigh three quarters of a pound, and grata
it into a dish. Cut up half a pound of butter into half a pound
of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir them together to a cream ;
add to them a glass of wine and rose water mixed. Beat the
whites only, of twelve eggs, till they stand alone on the rods ;
and then stir the grated cocoa-nut and the beaten white of egg
alternately into the butter and sugar ; giving the whole a hard
stirring at the last. Put the mixture into a buttered dish, lay
puff paste round the flat edge, and bake it half an hour in a
moderate oven. When cold, grate powdered sugar over it.

ANOTHER COCOA-NUT PUDDING.— Peel and cut

up the cocoa-nut, and wash and wipe the pieces. .Weigh one
pound, and grate it fine. Then mix with it two stale rusks
or small sponge-cakes, grated also." Stir together till very
light half a pound of butter and half a pound of powdered
white sugar, and add a glass of white wine. Beat six whole
eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar
in turn with the grated cocoa-nut. Having stirred the whole

288 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

very hard at the last, put it into a buttered dish and bake it
half an hour. Send it to table cold.

PUMPKIN PUDDING.— Take a pint of pumpkin that
has been stewed soft, and pressed through a cullender. Melt
in half a pint of warm milk, a quarter of a pound of butter,
and the same quantity of sugar, stirring them well together.
If you can conveniently procure a pint of rich cream it will be
better than the milk and butter. Beat eight eggs very light,
and add them gradually to the other ingredients, alternately
with the pumpkin. Then stir in a wine glass of rose water
and a glass of wine mixed together ; a large tea>-spoonful
of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and a grated nutmeg.
Having stkred the whole very hard, put it into a buttered
dish and bake it three quarters of an hour. Eat it cold.

A SQUASH PUDDING.— Pare, cut in pieces, and stew
in a very little water, a yellow winter squash. When it is
quite soft, drain it dry, and mash it in a cullender. Then put
it into a pan, and mix with it a quarter of a pound of butter.

i

Prepare two pounded crackers, or an equal quantity of grated .
stale bread. Stir gradually a quarter of a pound of powdered
sugar into a quart of rich milk, and add by degrees, the squash,
and the powdered biscuit. Beat nine eggs very light, and
stir them gradually into the mixture. Add a glass of white
wine, a glass of brandy, a glass of rose water, and a table-
spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon pow-
dered. Stir the whole very hard, till all the ingredients are
tnoroughly mixed. Bake it three quarters of an hour in a
buttered dish ; and when cold, grate white sugar over it.

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 289

YAM PUDDING.— Take one pound of rousted yam, and
rub it through a cullender. Mix with it half a pound ot white
sugar, a pint of cream or half a pound of butter, a tea-
spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, and a wine
glass of rose water, and one of wine. Set it away to get coid.
Then beat eight eggs very light, and add them by degrees to
the mixture, alternately with half a pound of the mashed
potato. Bake it three-quarters of an hour in a buttered dish.

CHESTNUT PUDDING— May be made in the above

mariner.

•

POTATO PUDDING.— Boil a pound of fine potatoes,
peel them, mash them, and rub them through a cullender.
Stir together to a cream, three quarters of a pound of sugar,
and the same quantity of butter. Add to them gradually, a
wine glass of rose water, a glass of wine, and a glass of
brandy ; a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, a
grated nutmeg, and the juice and grated peel of a large lemon.
Then beat six eggs very light, and add them by degrees to the
mixture, alternately with the potato. Bake it three quarters
of an hour in a buttered dish.

SWEET POTATO PUDDING.— Take half a pound of
sweet potatoes, wash them, and put them into a pot with a
very little water, barely enough to keep them from burning.
Let them simmer slowly for about half an hour ; they must
be only parboiled, otherwise they will be soft, and may make
the pudding heavy. When they are half done, take them out,
peel them, and \vhen cold, grate them. Stir together to a

•

cream, half a pound of butter and a quarter of a pound and

two ounces of powdered sugar, add a grated nutmeg, a large

25

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and half a tea-spoonful of
beaten mace. Also the juice and grated peel of a lemon,
a wine glass of rose water, a glass of wine, and a glass of
brandy. Stir these ingredients well together. Beat eight
eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture in turn with
the sweet potato, a little at a time of each. Having stirred
the whole very hard at the last, put it into a buttered dish and
bake it three quarters of an hour. Eat it cold.

CARROT PUDDING— May be made in the above manner.

GREEN CORN PUDDING.— Take twelve ears of green
corn, as it is called, (that is, Indian corn when full grown, but
before it begins to harden and turn yellow,) and grate it.
Have ready a quart of rich milk, and stir into it by degrees
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound
of sugar. Beat four eggs till quite light ; and then stir them
into the milk, &c. alternately with grated corn, a little of
each at a time. Put the mixture into a large buttered dish
and bake it four hours. It should be eaten quite warm. For
sauce, beat together butter and white sugar in equal propor-
tions, mixed with grated nutmeg.

To make this pudding, — you may, if more convenient, boil
the corn and cut it from the cob ; but let it get quite cold
before you stir it into the milk. If the corn has been pre-
viously boiled, the pudding will require but two hours to bake.

SAGO PUDDING.— Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of
currants ; and prepare a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon ;
a half tea-spoonful of powdered mace ; and a grated nutmeg.
Have ready six table-spoonfuls of sago, picked clean, and
soaked for two hours in cold water. Boil the sago in a quart

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 291

of milk till quite soft. Then stir alternately into the milk, a
quarter -of a pound of butter, and six ounces of powdered
sugar, and sc* it away to cool. Beat eight eggs, and when
they are quite light, stir them gradually into the milk, sago,
&c. Add the spice, and lastly the currants ; having dredges
them well with flour to prevent their sinking. Stir the whole
very hard,. put it into a buttered dish, and bake it three quar-
ters of an hour. Eat it cold.

• ARROW ROOT PUDDING.— Take a large tea-cup of
arrow root, and melt it in half a pint of rich milk. Then boil
another half pint of milk with some cinnamon, and a few
bitter almonds or peach-leaves. Strain the milk hot over the
dissolved arrow root ; stir it to a thick, smooth batter, and
set it away to cool. Next, beat three eggs very light, and
stir them into the batter, alternately with four large table-
spoonsful of powdered sugar. Add some nutmeg, and some
fresh lernon-peel, grated. Put the mixture into a buttered
dish, and bake it half an hour. When cold, ornament the
top handsomely, with slices of preserved quince or peach, or
with whole strawberries or raspberries.

GROUND RICE PUDDING.— Mix a quarter of a pound
of ground rice with a pint of cold milk, till it is a smooth
batter and free from lumps. Boil one pint of milk; and
when it has boiled, stir in gradually the rice batter, alternately

• .

with a -quarter of a pound of butter. Keep it over the fire,
stirring all the time, till the whole is well mixed, and has
boiled hard. Then take it off, add a quarter of a pound of
white sugar ; stir it well, and set it away to cool. Beat eight
eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture when it is

292 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

quite ( old. Then strain it through a sieve, (this will make it
more light and delicate,) add a grated nutmeg, and a small
tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir in the juice and the
grated peel of a lemon, or a small tea-spoonful of essence of
lemon. Put it into a deep dish or dishes, and bake it an hour.

•

As soon as it comes out of the oven, lay slips of citron over
the top ; and when cold, strew powdered sugar on it.

A RICE PLUM PUDDING.— Take three Jills of whole
rice ; wash it, and boil it in a pint of milk. When it is soft,
mix in a quarter of a pound of butter, and set it aside to
cool ; and when it is quite cold, stir it into another pint of
milk. Prepare a pound and a half of raisins or currants ; if
rurrants, wash and dry them ; if raisins, seed them and cut
them in half. Dredge them well with flour, to prevent their
sinking ; and prepare also a powdered nutmeg ; a table-spoon-
ful of mixed mace and cinnamon powdered ; a wine glass of
rose water ; and a wine glass of brandy or white wine. Beat
six eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture, alternately
with a quarter of a pound of sugar. Then add by degrees the
spice and the liquor, and lastly, stir in, a few at a time, the
raisins or currants. Put the pudding-into a buttered dish and
bake it an hour and a half. Send it to table cool.

You may make this pudding of ground rice, using but half
a pint instead of three Jills.

A PLAIN KICE PUDDING.— Pick, wash, and boil half
a pint of rice. Then dr^iin off the irater, and let the rice
dry, and get cold. Afterwards mix with it two ounces of
butter, and four ounces of sugar, and stir it into a quart of
rich milk. Beat four or five eggs very light, and add them
gradually to the mixture. Stir in at the last a table-spoonful

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 293

of grated nutmeg and cinn.-.mon. Bake it an hour in a di-c|>
dish.- Eat it cold.

A FARMER'S IlICE PUDDING.— This pudding is
made without eggs. Wash a common-sized tea-cup of
rice through cold water. Stir it raw into a quart of rich
milk, or of cream and milk mixed ; adding a quarter of a
pound of brown sugar, and a table-spooonful of powdered cin-
namon. Put it into a deep pan, and bake it two hours or more.
When done, the rice will be perfectly soft, which you may
ascertain by dipping a tea-spoon into the edge of the pudding
and taking out a little to try. Eat it cold.

RICE MILK.— Pick and wash half a pint of rice, and hoi!
it in a quart of water till it is quite soft. Then drain it, and
mix it with a quart of rich milk. You may add half a pound
of whole raisins. Set it over hot coals, and stir it frequently
till it boils. When it boils hard, stir in alternately two beaten
eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls of brown sugar. Let it
continue boiling five minutes -longer; then take it off, and
send it to table hot. If you put in raisins you must let it boil
till they are quite soft.

A BOILED RICE PUDDING.— Mix a quarter of a
pound of ground rice with a pint of milk, and simmer it
over hot coals ; stirring it all the time to prevent its being
lumpy, or burning at the bottom. When it is thick and

•

smooth, take it off, and pour it into an earthen pan. Mis a
quarter of a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of
butter with half a pint of cream or very rich milk, and stir it
into the rice; adding a powdered nutmeg, and the grated rind
of two lemons ; also squeeze in their juice. Beat the yolks of

six eggs with the whites of two only. When the eggs are quite

25* '

294 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKINO.

light, mix them gradually with the other ingredients, and stii
the whole very hard. Butter a large bowl, or a pudding mould.
Put in the mixture ; tying a cloth 'tightly over the top,
^so that no water can get in,) and boil it two hours. When
done, turn it out into a dish. Send it to table warm, and eat
it with sweetened cream, flavoured with a glass of brandy
or white wine and a grated nutmeg.

A MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.— Pare, core and quar-
ter six large ripe pippin apples. Stew them in about a jill of
water. When they are soft but not broken, take them out,
drain them through a sieve, and mash them to a paste with
the back of a spoon. Mix with them six large table-spoon-
fuls of sugar and a quarter of a pound of butter, and set
them away to get cold. Grate two milk biscuits or small
sponge cakes, or. an equal quantity of stale bread, and
grate also the yellow peel, and squeeze the juice of a large
lemon. Beat six eggs light, and when the apple is cold stir
them gradually into it, adding the grated biscuit and the
lemon. Stir in a wine glass of rose water and a grated nut-
meg. Put the mixture into a buttered dish or dishes ; lay-
round the edge a border of puff paste, and bake it three
quarters of an hour. When cold, grate white sugar over the
top, and ornament it with slips of citron handsomely arranged.

ALMOND CHEESE CAKE.

THIS though usually called a cheese cake, is in fact a
pudding.

Cut a piece of rennet about two inches square, wash off
the salt in cold water, and wipe it dry. Put it into a tea-cup,

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 295

pour on it sufficient luke-warm water to cover it, and let it
soak all night, or at least several hours. Take a quart of
milk, which must be made warm, but not boiling. Stir the
rennet-water into it. Cover it, and set it in a warm place
When the curd has become quite firm, and the whey looks
greenish, drain off the whey, and set the curd in a cool place.
While the m|lk is turning, prepare the other ingredients.
Wash and dry half a pound of currants, and dredge them well
with flour. Blanch three ounces of sweet and one ounce of
bitter almonds, by scalding and peeling them. Then cool
them in cold water, wiping them dry before you put them
into the mortar. If you cannot procure bitter almonds, peach
kernels may be substituted. Beat them, one at a time, in the
mortar to a smooth paste, pouring in with every one a few
drops of rose water to prevent their being oily, dull-coloured,
and heavy. If you put a sufficiency of rose water, the pounded
almond paste will be light, creamy, and perfectly white
Mix, as you do them, the sweet and bitter almonds together.
Then beat the yolks of eight eggs, and when. light, mix them
gradually with the curd. Add five table-spoonfuls of cream,
and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice. Lastly, stir in, by degrees,
the pounded almonds, and the currants alternately. Stir the
whole mixture very hard. Bake it in buttered dishes, laying
puff paste round the edges. If accurately made, it will be
found delicious. It must be put in the oven immediately.

COMMON CHEESE CAKE.— Boil a quart of rich milk
Beat eight eggs, put them to the milk, and let the milk and
eo-o-s boil too-ether till they become a cttrd. Then drain it

oo o •*

through a very clean sieve, till all the whey is o.ut. Put the
cuid into a deep dish, and mix with it half a pound of butter,
working them well together. When it is cold, add to it the

296 DIRECTIONS FOR* COOKING.

beaten yolks of four eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls of
powdered white sugar; also a grated nutmeg. Lastly, stir
in, by degrees, half a pound of currants that have been pre-
vious^ picked, washed, dried, and dredged with flour. Lay
puff paste round the rim of the dish, and bake the cheese
cake half an hour. Send it to table cold, dredged with sugar.

PRUNE PUDDING.— Scald a pound of prunes; cover
them, and lei them swell in the hot water till they are soft.
Then drain them, and extract the stones ; spread the prunes on

j.

a large dish, and dredge them with flour. Take one jill or
eight large table-spoonfuls from a quart of rich milk, and stir
into it, gradually, eight spoonfuls of sifted flour. Mix it to a
smooth batter, pressing out all the lumps with the back of the
spoon. Beat eight eggs light, and stir them, by degrees,
into the remainder of the milk, alternately with the batter that
you have just mixed. Then add the prunes one at a time,
stirring the whole very hard. Tie the pudding in a cloth
that nas been previously dipped in boiling water and then
dredged with flour. Leave room for it to swell, but secure it
firmly, so that no water can get in. Put it into a pot of boil-
ing water, and boil it two hours. Send it to table hot, (not
inking it out of the pot till a moment before it is wanted,) and
eat it with cream sauce; or with butter, sugar, and nntmeg
beaten together, and served up in a little tureen. - •

A similar pudding may be made, with whole raisins.

EVE'S PUDDING.— Pare, core, and quarter six large
pippins, and chop them very fine. Grate stale bread till you
lirive six ounces of crumbs, and roll fine six ounces of white
sugar. Pick, wash, and dry six ounces of currants, and
sprinkle them with flour. Mix all these ingredients too-cthr-r

o o

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 297

in a large pan, adding six ounces of butter cut small, and two
table-spoonfuls of flour. Beat six eggs very light, and
moisten the mixture with them. Add a grated nutmeg, and a
tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir the whole very
well together. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Dip
your pudding cloth into it, shake it out, and dredge it with
flour. Then put in the mixture, and tie it very firmly ; leav-
ing space for* the pudding to swell, and stopping up the tying
place with a paste of wetted flour. Boil it three hours ; keep-
ing at the fire a kettle of boiling water, to replenish the pot,
that the pudding may be always well covered. Send it to
table hot, and eat it with sweetened cream flavoured with
wine and nutmeg.

CINDERELLAS OR GERMAN PUFFS.— Sift half
a pound of the finest flour. Cut up in a quart of rich
milk, half a pound of fresh butter, and set it on the stove, or
near the fire, till it has melted. Beat eight eggs very light,
and stir them gradually into the milk and butter, alternately
with the flour. Add a pawdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful
of' powdered cinnamon. Mix 'the whole very well to a fine
smooth batter, in which tkere.must be no lumps. Butter
some large common tea-cups, and divide the mixture among
them till they are half full or a little more. Set them imme-
diately I'll a quick oven, and bake them about a quarter of an
hour. When done, turn them out into a dish, and grate
white sugar over them. Serve them up hot, with a sauce of
sweetened cream flavoured writh wine and nutmeg; or you
may eat them with molasses and butter ; or with sugar and
wine. Send, them round whole, for they will fall almost as
soon as cut.

298 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

A BOILED BREAD PUDDING.— Boil a quart of rich

»
milk. While it is boiling, take a smalt loaf of baker's bread,

such as is sold for five or six cents. It may be either fresh or
stale. Pare off all the crust, and cut up the crumb into very
small pieces. You should have baker's bread if you can
procure it, as home-made bread may not make the pudding
light enough. Put the bread into a pan ; and when the milk
boils, pour it scalding hot over the bread. Cover the pan
closely, and let it steep in the hot steam for about three quar-
ters of an hour. Then remove the cover, and allow the bread
and milk to cool. In the mean time, beat four eggs till they
are thick and smooth. Then beat into them a table-spoonful

•

and a half of fine wheat flour. Next beat the egg and flour
into the bread and milk, and continue to beat hard till the
mixture is as light as possible ; for on this the success of the
pudding chiefly depends.

Have ready over the fire a pot of boiling water. Dip your
pudding-cloth into it, and shake it out. Spread out the cloth
in a deep dish or pan, and dredge it well with flour. Pour in
the mixture, and tie up the cloth, leaving room for it to swell.
Tie the string firmly and plaster up the opening (if there is
any) with flour moistened with water. If any water gets into
it the pudding will be spoiled.

See that the water boils when you put in the pudding, and
keep it boiling hard. If the pot wants replenishing, do it
with boiling water from a kettle. Should you put in cold
water to supply the place of that which has boiled away, the
pudding will chill, and become hard and heavy. Boil it an
hour and a half.

Turn it out of the bag the minute before you send it to table.
Eat it with wine sauce, or with sugar and butter, or molasses.

It will be much improved by adding to the mixture half a

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 299

pound of whole raisins, well floured to prevent their sinking.
Sultana raisins are best, as they have no seeds.

If these directions are exactly followed, this will be found
a remarkably good and wholesome plain pudding.

For all boiled puddings, a square pudding-cloth which can
be opened out, is much better than a bag. It should be very
thick.

A BAKED BREAD PUDDING.— Take a stale five cent
loaf of bread ; cut off all the crust, and grate or rub the crumb
as fine as possible. Boil a quart of rich milk, and pour it hot
over the bread ^ then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter,
and the same quantity of sugar, a glass of wine and brandy
mixed, or a glass of rose wTater. Or you may omit the liquor
and substitute the grated peel of a large lemon. Add a table-
spoonful of mixed- cinnamon and nutmeg powdered. Stir the
whole very well, cover it, and set it away for haftf an hour.
Then let it cool. Beat seven or eight eggs very light, and stir
them gradually into the mixture after it is cold. Then butter
a deep dish, and bake the pudding an hour. Send it to table
cool.

A BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.— Cut some
slices of bread and butter moderately thick, omitting the
crust ; stale bread is best. Butter a deep dish, and cover the
bottom with slices of the buttered bread. Have ready a
pound of currants, picked, washed and dried. Spread one
third of them thickly over the bread and butter, and strew on
some brown .sugar. Then put another layer of bread and
butter, and cover it also with currants and sugar. Finish
with a third layer of each, and pour over the whole four eggs,
beaten very light and mixed with a pint of milk, and a wine

300 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

glass of rose water. Bake the pudding an hour, and grate
nutmeg over it when done. Eat it warm, but not hot.

You may substitute for the currants, raisins seeded, and cut
in half.

This pudding may be made also with layers of stewed
gooseberries instead of the currants, or with pippin apples,
pared, cored and minced fine.

A SUET PUDDING.— Mince very finely as much beef
suet as will make two large table-spoonfuls. Grate two
handfuls of bread-crumbs ; boil a quart of milk and pour it
hot on the bread. Cover it, and set it aside to steep for half
an hour; then put it to cool. Beat eight eggs very light;
stir the suet, and six table-spoonfuls of flour alternately into
the bread and milk, and add, by degrees, the eggs. Lastly,
stir in a table-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon
mixed, and*a glass of mixed wine and brandy. Pour it into
a square cloth dipped in hot water, and floured ; tie it '
firmly, put it into a pot of boiling water, and'boil it two hours.
Do not take it up till immediately before it is wanted, and
send it to table hot.

Eat it with wine sauce, or with molasses.

A CUSTARD PUDDING.— Take five table-spoonfuls out
of a quart of cream or rich milk, and mix them with two large
spoonfuls of fine flour . Set the rest of the milk to boil,
flavouring it with half a dozen peach leaves, or with bitter
alrnonus broken trp. When it has boiled hard, take it .off,
strain it, and stir it in the cold milk and flour. Set it away to
"jool, and beat well eight yolks and four whites of eggs; add
l.hem to the milk, and stir in, at the last, a glass of brandy or
vhite wine, a powdered nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 301

sugar. Butter a large bowl or mould; pour in the mixture;
tie a cloth tightly over it; put it into a pot of boiling water,
and boil it two hours, replenishing the pot with hot water from
a tea-kettle. When the pudding is done, let it get cool before
you turn it out. Eat it with buttex and sugar stirred together
to a cream, and flavoured with lemon juice or orange.

FLOUR HASTY PUDDING;— Tie together half a dozen
peach-leaves, put them into a quart of milk, and set it on the
fi>e to boil. When it has come to a hard boil, take out the
leaves, but let the pot remain boiling on the fire. Then with
a large wooden spoon in one hand, and some wheat flour in
the other, thicken and stir it till it is about the consistence of
a boiled custard. Afterwards throw in, one at a time, a dozen
small bits of butter rolled in a thick coat of flour. You may
enrich it by stirring in a beaten egg or two, a few minutes
before you take it from the fire. When done, pour it into a
deep dish, and strew brown sugar thickly over the top. Eat
it warm.

INDIAN MUSH. — Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling
water. Stir into it by degrees (a handful at a time) sufficient
Indian meal to make it very thick, and then add a very small
portion of salt. You must keep the pot boiling on the fire all
the time you are throwing in the meal ; and between every
handful, stir very hard with the mush-stick, (a round stick
flattened at one end,) that the mush may not be lumpy After
it is sufficiently thick," keep it boiling for an hour longer,
stirring it occasionally. Then 'cover the pot, and hang .it
higher up the chimney, so as to simmer slowly or keep hut
for another hout.. The goodness of mush depends greatly on its

being long and thoroughly boiled. If sufficienlty c"ooked, it is

26

302 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

wholesome and nutritious, but exactly the reverse, if made in
haste. It is not too long to have it altogether three or four
hours over the fire ; on the contrary it will be* much the better
for it.

Eat it warm; either with milk, or cover your plate with
mush, make a hole in the middle, put some butter in .the
hole and fill it up with molasses.

Cold mush that has been left, may be cut into slices and
fried in butter. •

Burgoo is made precisely in the same manner as mush, but
with oatmeal instead of Indian.

A BAKED INDIAN PUDDING.— Cut up a quarter of a
pound of butter in a pint of molasses, and warm them together
till the butter is melted. Boil a quart of milk; dnd while
scalding hot, pour it slowly over a pint of sifted Indian meal,
and stir in the molasses and butter. Cover it, and let it steep
for an hour. Then take off the cover, and set the mixture to

•

cool. When it is cold, beat six eggs, and stir them gradually
into it; add a table-spoonful of mixed cinnamon and nutmeg;
and 'the grated peel of a lemon. Stir the whole very hard ;
put it into a buttered dish, and bake it two hours. Serve it
up hot, and eat it with wine sauce, or with butter and
molasses.

A BOILED INDIAN PUDDING.— Chop very fine a
quarter of a pound of beef suet. Mix it with a quart of sifted
Indian meal. Boil a quart of milk with some pieces of cin-
namon broken up ; strain it, and while it is hot, stir in gra-
dually the meal and suet ; add half a pint of molasses. Cover
the mixture and set it away for an hour ; then put it to cool.
Beat six eggs, and stir them gradually into the mixture when

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 303

it is cold; add a grated nutmeg, and the grated peel of a
lemon. Tie the pudding in a cloth that has been dipped in
hot water and floured; and leave plenty of room for it to
swell. Secure it well at the tying place lest the water should
get in, which will infallibly- spoil it. Put it into a pot of
boiling water, (which must be replenished as it boils away,)
and boil it four hours at least ; but five or six will be better.
To have an Indian pudding very good, it should be mixed
the night before, (all except the eggs,) and put on to boil early
in the morning. Do not take it out of the pot till immediately
before it is wanted. Eat it with wine sauce, or with molasses
and butter. AY hat is- left may be boiled again next day.

INDIAN PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS.— Boil some
cinnamon in a quart of milk, and then strain it. While the
milk is hot, stir into it a pint of molasses, and then add by
degrees a quart or more of Indian meal so as to make a thick
batter. It will be much improved by the grated peel and
juice of a large lemon or orange. Tie it very securely in a
thick cloth, leaving room for it to swell, and pasting up the

•

tying-place with a lump of flour and water. Put it into a pot
of boiling water, (having ready a kettle to fill it up as it boils
away,) hang it over a good fire, and keep it boiling hard for
four or five hours. Eat it warm with molasses and butter*
This is a very economical, and not an unpalatable pudding ;

. •

and may be found convenient when it is difficult to obtain
eggs. The molasses should be West India.

« •

A BAKED PLUM PUDDING.— Grate all the crumb of a
stale six cent loaf; boil a quart of rich milk, and pour it boil-
ing hot over the grated bread ; cover it, and let it steep for an
hour ; then set it out to cool. In the mean time prepare half a

304 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING,

pound of currants, picked, washed, arid dried ; half a pound of
raisins, stoned and cut in half; and a quarter of a pound of
citron cut in large slips ; also, two nutmegs beaten to a pow-
der ; and a table-spoonful of mace and cinnamon powdered and
mixed together. Crush with a rolling-pin half a pound of
sugar, and cut up half a pound of butter. When the bread
and milk is uncovered to cool, mix with it the butter, sugar,
spice and citron ; adding 'a glass of brandy, and a glass of
white wine. .Beat eight eggs very light, and when the milk
is quite cold, stir them gradually into the mixture. Then add,
by degrees, the raisins and currants, (which must be pre-
viously dredged with flour,) and stir the whole vjery hard.

•
Put it into a buttered dish, and bake it two hours. Send it to

taole warm, and eat it with wine sauce, or with wine and

•

sugar only.

In making this pudding, you may substitute for the butter,
half a pound of beef suet minced as fine as possible. It will
be found best to prepare the ingredients the day before, cover-
ing them closely and putting them away.

A BOILED PLUM PUDDING.— Grate the crumb of a
twelve cent loaf of bread, and boil a quart of rich milk with a

»

small bunch of peach leaves in it, then strain it and set it out
to cool. Pick, wash and dry a pound of currants, and stone
and cut in half a pound of raisins ; strew over them three
large table-spponfuls .of flour. Roll fine a pound of brown
sugar, and mince as fine as possible three quarters of a pound
of beef suet. Prepare two beaten nutmegs, and a large table-
spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon ; also the grated
peel and the juice of two large lemons or oranges. Beat ten
eggs very light, and (when it is cold) stir them gradually
into the milk, alternately with the suet and grated bread.'

PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC. 305

Add, by degrees, the sugar, fruit, and spice, with a large glass
of brandy, and one of white wine. Mix the whole very well,
and siir it hard. Then put it into a thick cloth that has been
scalded and floured ; leave room for it to swell, and tie it very
firmly, pasting the tying-place with a small lump of moistened
flour, rut the pudding into a large pot of boiling water,
and boil it steadily six hours, replenishing the pot occasion-
ally from a boiling kettle. Turn the pudding frequently in
the pot. Prepare half a pound of citron cut in slips, and half
a pound of almonds blanched and split in half lengthways.
Stick the almonds and the citron all over the outside of the
pudding as soon as you take it out of the cloth. Send it to
table hot, and eat it with wine sauce, or with cold wine and

sugar.

If there is much of the pudding left, tie it in a cloth and
boil it again next day. *

•All the ingredients of this plum pudding (except the eggs)
should be prepared the day before, otherwise it cannot be made
in time to allow of its being sufficiently boiled.

We have known of a very rich plum pudding being mixed
in Eno-land and sent to America in a covered bowl ; it arrived

O

perfectly good after a month's yoyage, the seasoa being
winter.

A BAKED APPLE PUDDING.— Take nine large pippin
apples ; pare and core them whole. Set them in the bottom
of a large deep dish, and pour round them a very little water,
just enough to keep them from burning. Put them into an
oven, and let them bake about half an hour. In the mean
time, mix three table-spoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk.
a quarter of a pound of white sugar, and a tea-spoonful of
mixed spice. Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them

306 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

/

yradually into the" milk. Then take out the dish of apples,
(which by this time should be half baked,) and fill up the
holes from whence you extracted the cores, with white
sugar ; pressing dowrn into each a slice of fresl* lemon. Pour
the batter round the apples \ put the dish again into the oven,
and let it bake another half hour ; but not long enou^t for the
apples to fall to pieces ; as they should, when done, be soft
throughout, but quite whole. Send it to table warm.

This is sometimes called a Bird's Nest Pudding.

It will be much improved by previously boiling in the
milk a small handful of peach-leaves. Let it get cold before
you stir in the eggs.

BOILED APPLE PUDDING.— Pare, core, and quarter
as many fine juicy apples as will weigh two pounds when
done. .Strew among them a quarter of a pound of brown
sugar, and add a grated nutmeg, and the juice and yellow
peel of a large lemon. Prepare a paste of suet and flour, in
the proportion of a pound of chopped suet to two pounds of
flour. Roll it out of moderate thickness ; lay the apples in the
centre, and close the paste nicely over them in the form of a
large dumpling; tie it in a cloth and boil it three hours. Send
it to table hot, and eat with it cream sauce, or with butter and
sugar. The water must boil before the pudding goes in.

Any fruit pudding may be made in a similar manner.

AN EASTERN PUDDING. —Make a paste of a pound
of flour and half a pound of minced suet; and roll it out
thin into a square or oblong sheet ; trim off the edges so as to
make it an even shape. Spread thickly over it some marma-
lade, or cold stewed fruit, (which must be made very sweet,)
either app^e, peach, plum, gooseberry or cranberry. Roll up

DUMPLINGS, FUITTERS,X ETC. 307

the j.n.'io, with the fruit spread on it, into a scroll. Secure
each end by putting on nicely a thin round piece rolled out
from the trimmings that you cut off the edges of the sheet.
Put the pudding into a cloth, and boil it at least three hours.
Serve it up hot, and eat it with cream sauce, or with butter and
sugar. The pudding must be put on in boiling water.

APPLE DUMPLINGS.

TAKE large fine juicy apples. Pare them, and extract the
cores without dividing the apple. Fill each hole with brown
sugar, and some chips of lemon-peel. Also squeeze in some
lemon juice. Or you may fill the cavities with raspberry jam,
or with any sort of marmalade. Have ready a paste, made in
the proportion of a found of suet, chopped as fine as possible,
to two pounds and a half of sifted flour, well mixed, and
wetted with as little water as possible. Roll out the paste
to .a moderate thickness, and cut it into circular pieces, allow-
ing two pieces to each dumpling. Lay your apple on ono
piece, and put another piece 'on the top, closing the paste round
the sides with your fingers, so as to cover the apple entirely.
This is a better way than gathering up the paste at one end,
as the dumpling is less liable to burst. Boil each dumpling

*

in a small coarse cloth, which has first been dipped in hot
water. There should always be a set of cloths kept foi
the purpose. Tie them tightly, leaving a small space for
the dumpling to swell. Plaster a little flour on the inside
of each tying place to prevent the water from getting in.
Have ready a pot of boiling water. Put in the dumplings and
boil them steadily for an hour. Send them to. table hot in a
covered dish. Do not take them up till a moment before they
are wanted.

308 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Eat them with cream and sugar, or with butter and sugar.

You may make the paste with hutter instead of suet,
allowing a pound of butter to two pounds and a quarter of
Hour. But when paste is to be boiled, suet will make it much
lighter and finer than butter.

A*le dumplings may be made in a very plain manner with
potato paste, and boiled without cloths, dredging the outside
of each dumpling with flour. They should boil about three
quarters of an hour when without cloths.

The apples for dumplings should always be whole, (except
the cores;) for if quartered, the pieces will separate in boiling
and break through the crust. The apples should never be
sweet ones.

RICE DUMPLINGS.— Pick and wasli a pound of rice,
and boil it gently in two quarts of water till it becomes dry ;
keeping the pot well covered, and not stirring it. Then take
it off the fire, and spread it out to cool on the bottom of an
inverted sieve ; loosening the grains lightly with a fork, that
ail the moisture may evaporate. Pare a dozen pippins or
other large juicy apples, and scoop out the core. Then fill
up the cavity with marmalade, or with lemon and sugar.
Cover every apple ^11 over with a thick coating of the boiled
rice. Tie up each in a separate cloth,* and put them into a

•

pot of^cold water. They will require about, an hour and a
quarter after they begin to boil ; perhaps longer.

Turn them out on a larg^e dish, and be careful in doino- so

* o * ^

* Your pudding and dumpling cloths should be squares of coarse
ibick linen, hemmed, and with tape strings sewed to them. After
using, they should be washed, dried, and ironed; and kept in one
of the kitchen drawers, that they may be always ready when
wanted.

DUMPLINGS, FRITTERS, ETC. 309

not to break the dumplings. Eat them with cream sauce,
or with wine sauce, or with butter, sugar, and nutmeg b 3aten
together.

PIGEON DUMPLINGS OR PUDDINGS — Take six
pigeons and stuff them with chopped oysters, seasoned with
pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg. Score the breasts, and loosen
all the joints with a sharp knife, as if you were going to carve
them for eating ; but do not cut them quite .apart. Make a suf-
ficient quantity of nice suet paste, allowing a pound of suet to
two pounds of flour ; roll it out thick, and divide it into six.
Lay one pigeon on each sheet of the paste with-the back down-
wards, and put in the lower part of the breast a piece of butter
rolled in flour. Close the paste over the pigecn in the form of
a dumpling or small pudding ; pouring in at the last a very
little cold water to add to the gravy. Tie each dumpling m
a cloth, put them into a pot of hot water, and boil them two
hours. Send them to table with made gravy in a boat.

Partridges or quails may be cooked in this manner; also
chickens, which must be accompanied by egg sauce.

These dumplings or puddings will be found very good.

FINE SUET DUMPLINGS.— Grate the crumb of a stale
six cent loaf, and mix it with half as much beef suet,
chopped as fine as possible. Add a grated nutmeg, and two
large table-spoonfuls of sugar. Beat four eggs with four table-
spoonfuls of white wine or brandy. Mix all well together to
a stiff paste. Flour your hands, and make up the mixture into
balls or dumplings about the size of turkey eggs. Hav«
ready a pot of boiling water. Put the dumplings into clo; ,

•

and let them boil about half an hour. Serve them hot, and eat
them with wine sauce.

310 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

PLAIN SUET DUMPLINGS.— Sift two pounds of flour
into a pan, and add a salt-spoon of salt. Mince very fine one
pound of beef suet, and rub it into the flour. Make it into a
stiff dough with a little cold water. Then toll it out an inch
thick or rather more. Cut it into dumplings with the edge
of a tumbler. Put them into a pot of boiling water, and let
them boil an hour and a half. Send them to table hot, to
eat with boiled loin of mutton, or with molasses after the
meat is removed.

INDIAN DUMPLINGS.— Take a pint of milk, and four
eggs well beaten. Stir them together, and add a salt-spoon
of salt. Then mix in as much sifted Indian meal as will

•

make a stiff dough. Flour your hands ; divide the dough
into equal portions, and make it into balls about the size of a
goose egg. Flatten each with the rolling-pin, tie them in
cloths, and put them into a pot of boiling water. They will
boil in a short time. Take care not to let them go to pieces
by keeping them too long in the pot.

Serve them up hot, and eat them with corned pork, or with
bacon.- Or you may eat them with molasses and butter after
the meat is rerribved.

If to be eaten without meat, j~ou may'rnix in the dough a
qu-arter of a pound of finely chopped suet.

LIVER DUMPLINGS.— Take a calf's liver, and chop it
very fine. Mix with it half a pound of beef suet chopped
fine also ; half a pound of flour ; one minced onion ; a hand-
ful of bread crumbs ; a table-spoonful of chopped parsley and
sweet marjoram mixed; a few blades of niace and some
grated nutmeg ; and a little pepper and salt. Mix all well
together. Wot the mixture with six eggs well beaten, and

DUMPLINGS, FRITTERS, ETC. 3J1

make it up into dumplings, with your hands well floured.
Have ready a large pot of boiling water. Drop the dump-
lings into it with a ladle, and let them boil an hour: Have
ready bread-crumbs browned in butter to pour over them
before they go to table.

HAM DUMPLINGS.— Chop some cold ham, the fat and
lean in equal proportions. Season it with pepper and minced
sage. Make a crust, allowing half* a pound of chopped suet,
or half a pound of butter to a pound of flour. Roll it out
thick, and divide it into equal portions. Put some minced
ham into each, and close up the crust. Have ready a pot of
boiling wTater, and put in the dumplings. Boil them aoout
three quarters of an hour. You may use potatoe paste.

LIGHT DUMPLINGS.— Mix together as much grated
bread, butter and beaten egg (seasoned with powdered cin-
namon) as will make a stiff paste. Stir it well. Make the
mixture into round dumplings, with your hands well floured.
Tie up each in a separate cloth, and boil them a short time, —
about fifteen minutes. Eat them with wine sauce, or witb
molasses and butter.

PLAIN FRITTERS.

BEAT seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into a
quart of milk ; add, by degrees, three quarters of a pound.
or a pint and a half of sifted flour. Beat the whole very hard.
Have ready in a frying-pan over the fire, a large quantity of
lard. When the lard has come to a hard boil, begin to put in
the fritters; allowing for each about a jill of batter, or half

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

a* large tea-cup full. They do not require turning1, and will
be done in a few minutes. Fry as many at a time as the
nan wiH hold. Send them to table hot. and eat them with

<. *

powdered cinnamon, sugar, and white wrine. Let fresh hot

-

ones be sent in as they are wanted ; they chill and become
heavy immediately.

Begin to fry the fritters as soon as the batter is mixed, as
it will fall by setting. Near a pound and a half of lard will
be required for the above quantity of fritters.

APPLE FRITTERS.— Pare, core, and parboil (in a very
little water) some .large juicy pippins. When half done,
take them out, drain them, and mince them very fine. Make
a batter according to the preceding receipt; adding some
lemon juice and grated lemon-peel. Stir into the batter a suffi-
cient quantity of the minced apple to make it very thick.
Then fry the fritters in hot lard as before directed. Eat them
with nutmeg and sugar.

PLAIN PANCAKES.— Sift half a pound or a pint of
flour. Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually
into a quart of rich milk. Then add by degrees the flour, so
as to make a thin batter. Mix it very smooth, pressing out
all the lumps with the back of a spoon. Set the frying-pan over
the fire, and when it is hot, grease it with a spoonful of lard.
Then put in a ladle full of the .batter, and fry it of a "light
brown, turning it with care to prevent its breaking. Make
each pancake large enough to cover the bottom of a dessert
plate ; greasing the pan every time. Send them to table hot,
accompanied bypowdered sugar and nutmeg mixed in a small
glass bowl. Have wine with them also.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 313

SWEETMEAT PANCAKES.— Take a large red beet-
root that has been boiled tender ; cut it up and pound it in a
mortar till you have sufficient juice for colouring the pancakes.
Then make a batter as in the preceding receipt, and stir into
it at the last enough of the beet juice to give it a fine pink
colour. Or instead of the beet juice, you may use a little
cochineal dissolved in. a very small quantity of brandy. Fry
the pancakes in a pan greased with lard or fresh butter ; and
as fast as they are done, spjread thickly over them raspberry
jam or any sort of marmalade. Then roll them up nicely,
and trim off the ends. Lay them, side by side, on a large
dish, and strew powdered sugar over them. Send them to
table hot, and eat them with sweetened cream.

PLAIN CUSTARDS.

TIE together six or eight peach leaves, and boil them in a
quart of milk with a large stick of cinnamon broken up. If
you cannot procure peach leaves, substitute a handful of
peach-kernels or bitter almonds, or a vanilla bean split in
pieces. When it has boiled hard, strain the milk and set it
away to cool. Beat very light eight eggs, and stir them by
degrees into the milk when it is quite cold, (if warm, the
eggs will curdle it, and cause whey at the bottom,) and add
gradually a quarter of a pound of sugai. Fill your cups with
it ; set them in a Dutch oven, and pom round them boiling
water sufficient to reach nearly to the tops of the cups. Put
hot coals under the oven and on the lid, (which must be pre-
viously heated by standing it up before a hot fire,) ana bake
the custards about fifteen minutes. Send them to table cold,
with nutmeg: grated over each. Or you may bake the whole

in one large dish.

27

,U4 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

"SOFT CUSTARDS— Are made in the above manner,
except that to a quart of milk you must have twelve yolks
of eggs, and no whites. You may devote to this purpose thf
yolks that are left when you have used the whites for cocoa-
nut or almond puddings, or for lady cake or maccaroons.

BOILED CUSTARDS.— Beat eight eggs very light,
omitting the whites of four. Mix them gradually with a
quart of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Put the
mixture into a saucepan with a bunch of peach leaves, or a
handful of broken up peach-kernels or bitter almonds ; the
yellow peel of a lemon, and a handful of broken cinnamon ;
or you may boil in it a vanilla bean. Set it on hot coals, and
simmer it slowly, stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes
to a boil, take it immediately off the fire, or it will curdle and
be lumpy. Then strain it : add a table-spoonful of rose-
water, and put it into glass cups. You may lay in the bot-
lom of each cup a maccaroon soaked in wine. Grate nutmeg
over the top, and send it to table cold. Eat it with tarts 01
sweetmeats.

RICE CUSTARD.-— Boil some rice in milk till it is quite
dry ; then put it into small tea-cups, (pressing it down hard,)
and when it is cold ard has taken the shape of the cups, turn
it out into a deep dish, and pour a boiled custard round it.
Lay on the top of each lump of rice a piece of preserved
quince or peach, or a piece of fruit jelly. In boiling the rice,
you may mix with it raisins or currants ; if so, omit the sweet-
meats on the top. Ground rice is best.

Another way of boiling custard is to put the 'mixture into a
jutcher, set it in a vessel of boiling water, place it on hot coals
01 in a stove, and let it boil slowly, stirring it all the time.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 315

SN.OWBALL CUSTARD.— Make a boiled custard as in
the preceding receipts; and when it is done and quite cold,
put it into a deep glass dish. Beat to a stiff froth the four
whites of eggs that have been omitted in the custard, adding
eight or ten drops of oil of lemon. Drop the froth in balls on
the top of the dish of custard, heaping and forming them with
a spoon into a regular size and shape. Do not let them touch
each other. \ou may lay a fresh rose leaf on the top of
every one. |p

APPLE CUSTARD. — Pare, core, and quarter a dozen large
juicy pippins. Strew among them the yellow peel of a large
lemon grated very fine ; and stew them till tender, in a very
small portion of water. When done, mash them smooth with
the back of a spoon ; (you must have a pint and a half of the
stewed apple ;) mix a quarter of a pound of sugar with them, and
set them away till cold. Beat six eggs very light, and stir
them gradually into a quart of rich milk, alternately with the
stewed apple. Put the mixture into cups, or into a deep dish,
and bake it about twenty minutes. Send it to table cold,
with nutmeg grated over the top.

LEMON CUSTARD -Take four large ripe lemons, and
roll them under your hand QS. *he table to increase the juice.
Then squeeze them into a bowl, and mix with the juice a very
small tea-cup lull of cold water. Use none of the peel. Add
gradually sufficient sugar to make it very siceet. Beat twelve
eggs till quite light, and then stir the lemon juice gradually
into them, beating very hard at the last. Put the mixture
into cups, and bake it ten minutes. When done, grate nutmeg
over the top of each, and set them among ice, or in a very
cold place.

316 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

These custards being made without rnilk, can be prepared
at a short notice ; they will be found very fine.

Orange custards may be made in the same manner.

GOOSEBERRY CUSTARD.— Top and tail two quarts
of green gooseberries. Stew them in a very little water ;
stirring and mashing them frequently. When they have
stewed till entirely to pieces, take them out, and with a wooden
spoon press the pulp through a cullender. Stir in (while the
pulp is hot) a table-spoonful of butter, and sufficient sugar to
make it very sweet. Beat six eggs very light. Simmer the
gooseberry pulp over a gentle fire, and gradually stir the
beaten eggs into it. When it comes to a boil, take it off
immediately, stir it very hard, and set it out to cool. Serve
it up cold in glasses or custard cups, grating some nutmeg
over each.

ALMOND CUSTARD.— Scald and blanch half a pound
of shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of shelled bitter
almonds ; throwing them as you do them into a large bowl of
cold water. Then pound them one at a time in a mortar;
pouring infrequently a little rose water to prevent their oiling,
and becoming dark-coloured and heavy. Melt a quarter of a
pound of loaf-sugar in a quart of cream or rich milk, and stir
in by degrees the pounded almonds. Beat ten eggs very
light, and stir them gradually into the mixture; adding a
powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and
cinnamon mixed. Then put the whole into a pitcher, and
place it in a kettle or pan of boiling water, the water coming
up to the lower part of the neck of the pitcher. Set it over
hot coals, and let it boil (stirring it all the time) till it is quite
thick, but not till it curdles. Then take the pitcher out of

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 317

the water; pour the custard into a large bowl, and stir it till
it cools. Put it into glass cups, and send it to table cold.
Sweeten some cream or white of egg. Beat it to stiff froth
and pile it on the top of the custards.

BOILED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.— To a pound of
grated cocoa-nut allow a pint of unskimmed milk, and six
ounces of white sugar. Beat very light the yolks of six eggs.
Stir them gradually into the milk, alternately with the cocoa-
nut and sugar. Put the mixture into a pitcher; set it in a
vessel of boiling water ; place it on hot coals, and simmer it
till it is very sm'Oith and thick ; stirring it all the time. As
soon as it comes to a hard boil, take it off the fire ; pour it into
a large bowl, and set it out to cool. When cold, put it into
glass cups. Beat to a stiff froth the white of egg that was
left, and pile it on the custards.

BAKED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.— Grate as much
cocoa-nut as will weigh a pound. Mix half a pound of
powdered white sugar with the milk of the cocoa-nut, or with
a pint of cream ; adding two table-spoonfuls of rose water.
Then stir in gradually a pint of .rich milk. Beat to a stiff
froth the whites of eight eggs, and stir them into the milk and
sugar, a little at a time, alternately with the grated cocoa-nut :
add a tea-spoonful of po\vdered nutmeg and cinnamon. Then
put the mixture into cups, and hake them twenty minutes in a
Dutch oven half filled with boiling water. When cold, grate
loaf-sugar over them.

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD Scrape fine a quarter of

a pound of chocolate, and pour on it a pint of boiling

water. Cover it, and let it stand by the fire till it has

27*

318 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

dissolved, stirring it twice. Beat eight eggs very light,
omitting the whites of two. Stir them by degrees into a
quart of cream or rich milk, alternately with the melted cho-
colate, and three table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar.
Put the mixture into cups, and bake it about ten minutes.
Send them to table cold, with sweetened cream, or white
of egg beaten to a stiff froth, and heaped on the top of each
custard. No chocolate is so good as Baker's prepared cocoa.

MACCAROON CUSTARDS.— -These must be made in.
china custard cups. Put four maccaroons into each cup, and
pour on them three spoonfuls of white wine. Mix together
a pint of cream, and a pint of milk; and boil them with
a large stick of cinnamon broken up, and a small bunch of
peach leaves or a handful of broken bitter almonds. Then
strain the milk ; stir in a quarter of a pound of white sugar,
and set it away to cool. Beat very light eight eggs, (omitting
the whites of four,) and stir them gradually into the cream
and milk when quite cold. Fill your cups with the mixture,
(leaving the maccaroons at the bottom,) and set them in a
Dutch oven or iron baking pan, \vhieh must be half full of
boiling water. Heat the oven-lid first, by standing it up be-
fore a hot fire ; then put it on, spreading coals over the top.
Place sufficient coals under the oven, and bake the custards
about ten minutes. When cold, heap beaten wrhite of egg on
the top of each. These custards are very fine.

SYLLABUB, OR WHIPT CREAM.

PARE off very thin the yellow rind of four large lemons,
and lay it in the bottom of a deep dish. Squeeze the juice of

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 310

the lemons into a large bowl containing a pint of white wine,
and sweeten it witfi half a pound of powdered loaf-uugar.
Then, by degrees, mix in a quart of cream. Pour the whole
into the dish in which you have laid the lemon-peel, and let
the mixture stand untouched for three hours. Then beat it with
rods to a stiff froth, (first taking out the lemon-peel,) and
having put into each of your glasses a table-spoonful or more
of fruit jelly, heap the syllabub upon it so as to stand up high
at the top. This syllabub, if it can be kept in a cold place,

•

may be made the day before you want to use it.

COUNTRY SYLLABUB.— Mix. half a pound of white
sugar with a pint of fine sweet cider, or of white wine ; and
grate in a nutmeg. Prepare them in a large bowl, just before
milking time. Then let it be taken to the cow, and have
about three pints milked into it ; stirring it occasionally with
a spoon. Let it be eaten before the froth subsides. If you
use cider, a little brandy will improve it.

A TRIFLE. — Place half a pound of maccaroons or Naples
biscuits at the bottom of a large glass bowl. Pour on them
as much white wine as will cover and dissolve them. Make
a rich custard, flavoured with bitter almonds or pWreh leaves :
and pour it when cold on the maccaroons ; the custard may
be either baked or boiled. Then add a layer of marmalade or
jam. Take a quart of cream, mix with it a quarter ol a pound

•

of sugar, and half a pint of white wine, and whip it with rods
to a stiff froth; laying the froth (as 3^ou proceed) on an in-
verted sieve, with a dish under it to catch the cream that drips
through ; which must be saved and whipped over again. In-
stead of rods you may use a little tin churn. Pile the frothed
cream upoii the marmalade in a high pyramid. To ornament

H20 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

it, — take preserved water-melon rind that has been cut into
leaves' or flowers; split them nicely to 'make them thinner
and lighter ; place a circle or wreath of them round the heap
of frothed cream, interspersing them with spots of stiff red
currant jelly. Stick on the top of the pyramid a sprig of
real flowers.

FLOATING ISLAND.— Take a quart of rich cream, and
divide it in half. Sweeten one pint of it with loaf-sugar, and
stir into it sufficient currant jelly to colour it of a fine pink.
Put it into a glass bowl, and place in the centre a pile of
sliced almond-sponge cake, or of lady cake; every slice
spread thickly with raspberry jam or marmalade, and laid
evenly one on anotner. Have ready the other pint of cream,
flavoured with the juice of two lemons, and beaten with
rods to a stiff froth. Heap it all over the pile of cake, so as
entirely to cover it. Both creams must be made very sweet.

A RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE.— Take a dozen of the
square or oblong sponge-cakes that are commonly called
Naples biscuits. They should be quite fresh. Spread over
each a tb^i layer of raspberry jam, and place them in the
bottom ana round the sides of a glass bowl. Take the whites
of six eggs, and mix with them six table-spoonfuls of rasp-
berry or currant jelly. Beat the egg and jelly with rods till
very light, and then fill up the bowl with it. For this pur-
pose, cream (if you can conveniently procure it) is still better
than white of egg.

You may make a charlotte with any sort of jam, marma-
lade, or fruit jelly. It can be prepared at a short notice, and
is very generally liked. You may use ripe strawberries,
mashed and sweetened.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 321

A PLUM CHARLOTTE.— Stone a quart of ripe plums;
first stew, and then sweeten them. Cut slices of bread
and butter, and lay them in the bottom and round the
sides of a large bowl or deep dish. Pour in the plums boil-
ing hot, cover the bowl, and set it away to cool gradually.
When quite cold, send it to table, and eat it with cream.

CLOTTED CREAM.— Mix together a jill of rich milk, a
e wine flass of rose water, and four ounces of white sugar.

5? "

Add to it the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir the mixture into
a quart of the best cream ; set it over hot coals, and let it just
come to a boil, stirring it all the time. Then take it off, poui
it into a glass bowl, and set it away to get cold. Eat it with
fresh strawberries, raspberries, or with any sort of sweetmeats.

LEMON CREAM. — Beat well together a quart of thick
cream and the yolks of eight eggs. Then gradually beat in
half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and the grated rind of
three large lemons. Put the mixture into a porcelain skillet,
and set it on hot coals till it comes to a boil ; then take it oil,
and stir it till nearly cold. Squeeze the juice of the lemons into
a bowl ; pour the cream upon it, and continue to sti^it till quite
cold. You may serve it up in a glass bowl, in glass cups, or
in jelly glasses. Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats.

ORANGE CREAM. — Beat very light six eggs, omitting
the whites of two. Have ready a pint of orange juice, and
stir it gradually into the beaten egg, alternately wi«h a pound
of powdered loaf-sugar. Put into a porcelain skillet the
yellow rind of one orange, pared very thin; pour the mixture
upon it, and set it over a slow fire. Simmer it steadily, stir-
ring it all the time; but when nearly ready to boil, take it

322 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

off, remove the orange-peel, 'and put the mixture into glasses

to get cold.

__^^_

CURDS AND WHEY.— -Take a piece of rennet about
three inches square, and wash it in two or three cold waters to
get off the salt ; wipe it dry, and fasten a string to one corner
of it. Have ready in a deep dish or pan, a quart of un-
skimmed milk that has been warmed but not boiled. Put
the rennet into it, leaving the string hanging out over the
side, that you may know where to find it. Cover the pan,
and set it by the fire-side or in some other warm place. When
the milk becomes a firm mass of curd, and the whey looks
clear and greenish, remove the rennet as gently as possible,
pulling it out by the string ; and set the pan in ice, or in a
very cold place. Send to table with it a small pitcher of
white wine, sugar and nutmeg mixed together; or a bowl
of sweetened cream, with nutmeg grated over it.

You may keep rennet in white wine ; cutting it in small
pieces, and putting it into a glass jar with wine enough to
cover it well. Either the wine or the rennet will be found
good for turning milk ; but do not put in both together, or the
curd will become so hard and tough as to be uneatable.

Rennets properly prepared and dried, are sold constantly in
the Philadelphia markets: The cost is trifling ; and it is well
10 have one always in the house, in case of being wanted to
make whey for sick persons. They will keep a year or more.

LEMON ICE CREAM

HAVE ready two quarts of very rich thick cream, and take
out a pint. Stir gradually into the pint, a pound of the best
loaf-sugar powdered fine ; and the grated rind and the juice of

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 323

four ripe lemons of the largest size, or of five or six smaller
ones. If you cannot procure the fruit, you may flavour the
cream with essence or oil of lemon ; a tea-spoonful or more,
according to its strength. The strongest and best essence of
lemon is the white or whitish ; when tinged with green, it
is comparatively weak, having been diluted with water ; if
quite green, a large tea-spoonful will not communicate as
much flavour as five or six drops of the white. After you
have mixed the pint of cream with the sugar and lemon, beat
it gradually and hard into the remaining cream, that is, the three
pints. Cover it, and let it stand to infuse from half an hour
to an hour. Then taste it, and if you think it necessary, stir
in a little more lemon juice or a little more sugar. Strain it
into the freezer through a fine strainer, (a tin one with small
close holes is best,) to get rid of the grated lemon-peel, which
if left in would prevent the cream from being smooth. Cover
the freezer, and stand it in the ice cream tub, which should be
filled with a mixture, in equal quantities, of coarse salt, and
ice broken up as small as possible, that it may lie close and
compact round the freezer, and thus add to its coldness. Snow,
when it can be procured, is still better than ice to mix with
the salt. It should be packed closely into the- tub, and
pressed dowrn hard. While the cream is freezing, keep it
always in motion, whirling the freezer round by the handle,
and opening the lid frequently to stir and beat the cream, and
to scrape it down from the sides \vith a long-handled tin spoon.
Take care that no salt gets in, or the cream will be spoiled.
When it is entirely frozen, take it out of the freezer and put it
into your mould ; set it again in the tub, (which must be filled
with fresh ice and salt,) and leave it undisturbed till you
want it for immediate use. This second freezing, however,
should not continue longer than an hour, or the cream will

324 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

become inconveniently and unpleasantly hard, and have much
of the flavour frozen out of it. Place the mould in the ice
tub, with the head downwards, and cover the tub with pieces
of old carpet while the second freezing is going on. When it
has arrived at the proper consistence, and it is time to serve
it up, dip a cloth in cold water, and wash it round the mould
for a few moments, to loosen the cream and make it come out
easily ; setting the mould on a glass or china dish. If a pyra-
mid or obelisk mould, lift it carefully off the top. If the
mould or form represents doves, dolphins, lap-dogs, fruit
baskets, &c. it will open down the middle, and must be taken
off in that manner. Serve it up immediately lest it begin to
melt. Send round sponge-cake with it, and wine or cordials
immediately after.

If you have no moulds, but intend serving it up in a largo
bowl or in glasses, it must still be frozen twice over ; other-
wise it can have no smoothness, delicacy, or consistence, but
will be rough and coarse, and feel in the mouth like broken
icicles. The second freezing (if you have no mould) must be
done in the freezer, which should be washed out, and set
again in the tub with fresh ice and salt. Cover it closely,
and let the cream stand in it untouched, but not less than two
hours. When you put it into glasses, heap it high on the top.

Begin to make ice cream about four or five hours before it is
wranted for use. If you commence it too early, it may pro-
bably be injured by having to remain too long in the second
freezing, as it must not be turned out till a few moments
before it is served up. In damp weather it requires a longer
time to freeze.

If cream is scarce, mix with it an equal quantity of rich
milk, and then add, for each quart, two table-spoonfuls of pow-
dered arrov>-root rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Orano-e

O

ice cream is made in the same manner as lemon

•

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 325

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.— Take two quarts of
ripe strawberries; hull them, and put them into a deep dish,
strewing" among them half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Cover them, and let them stand an hour or two. Then mash
them through a sieve till you have pressed out all the juice,
and stir into it half a pound more of powrdered sugar, or
enough to make it very sweet, and like a thick syrup. Then
mix it by degrees with two quarts of rich cream, beating it
in very hard. Put it into a freezer, and proceed as in the fore-
going receipt. In two hours, remove it to a mould, or take it
out and return it again to the freezer with fresh salt and ice,
that it may be frozen a second time. In one hour .more, it
should be ready to turn out.

RASPBE'RRY ICE CREAM— Is made according to the
preceding receipt.

PINE-APPLE ICE CREAM.— To each quart of cream
allow a "large ripe pine-apple, and a pound of powdered
loaf-sugar. Pare the pine-apple, slice it very thin, and mince
it small. Lay it in a deep dish and strew the sugar among it.
Cover the dish, and let the pine-apple lie in the sugar for two
or three hours. Then strain it through a sieve, mashing and
pressing out all the juice. Stir the juice gradually into the
cream, beating it hard. Put it into the freezer, and let it be
twice frozen before it is served up.

VANILLA ICE CREAM.— Take a large vanilla bean, and

boil it slowly in half a pint of milk till all the flavour is drawn
out, which you may know by tasting it. Then mix into the
milk half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir it very

hard into a quart of rich cream. Put it into tree

28

326 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

and proceed as directed in the receipt for Lemon Ice Cream ;

Jreezmg it twice.

ALMOND ICE CREAM.— Take six ounces of bittei
almonds, (sweet ones will not do,) blanch them, and pound
them in a mortar, adding- by degrees a little rose water. Then
boil them gently in a pint of cream till you find that it is
highly flavoured with them. Then pour the cream into a
bowl, stir in a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, cover it,
and set it away to cool gradually ; when it is cold, strain it,
and then stir it gradually and hard into three pints -of cream.
Put it into the freezer, and proceed as directed in the first ice
cream receipt. Freeze it twice. It will be found very fine.

Send round always with ice cream, sponge cake or Savoy
biscuits. Afterwards wine, and cordials, or liqueurs as they
are now generally called.

ICE ORANGEADE. —Take a pint and a half of orange
juice, and mix it with half a pint of clear or filtered \vater.
Stir in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Pare very thin
the yellow rind of six deep-coloured oranges, cut in pieces,
and lay it at the bottom of a bowl or tureen. Pour the orange
juice and sugar upon it; cover it, and let it infuse an- hour.
Then strain the liquid into a freezer, and proceed as for ice
cream. When it is frozen, put it into a mould, (it will look
best in the form of a pine-apple,) and freeze it a second time.
Serve it in glass cups, with any sort of very nice sweet cakes.

ICE LEMONADE — May be made in the above manner,
but with a larger proportion of sugar.

The juice of pine-apples, strawberries, raspberries, currants
and cherries, may be prepared and frozen according to the

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 327

above receipts. They will freeze in a shorter time than jf
mixed with cream, hut are very inferior in richness.

BLANC-MANGE.

PUT into a pan an ounce of isinglass ; (in warm weather
you must take an ounce and a quarter ;) pour on as much
rose water as will cover the isinglass, and set it on hot coals
to dissolve.* Blanch a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds,
(half sweet and half bitter,) and beat them to a paste in a mor-
tar, (one at a time,J moistening them all the while with a
little rose water. Stir the almonds by degrees into a quart of
cream, alternately with half a pound of powdered white sugar ;
add a large tea-spoonful of beaten mace. Put in the melted
isinglass, and stir the whole very hard. Then put it into a
porcelain skillet, and let it boil fast for a quarter of an hour.
Then strain it into a pitcher, and pour it into your moulds,
which must first be wetted with cold water. Let it stand in
a cool place undisturbed, till it has entirely congealed, which
will be in about five hours. Then wrap a cloth dipped in hot
water round the moulds, loosen the blanc-mange round the
edges with a knife, and turn it out into" glass dishes. It is
best to make it the day before it is wanted.

Instead of using a figure-mould, you may set it to congeal
in tea-cups or wine glasses.

Blanc-mange may be coloured green by mixing with the

* You may make the stock for blanc-mange without isinglass, by
boiling four calves' feet in two quarts of water till reduced one half,
and till the meat is entirely to rags. Strain it, and set it away til]
next day. Then clear it from the fat and sediment ; cut it into pieces,
and boil it with the cream and the other ingredients. When you
take it from the fire, and strain it into the pitcher, keep stirring it till
it gets cold.

828 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

cream a little juice of spiiiage ; cochineal which has been
infused in a little brandy for half un hour, will colour it red ;
and saffron will give it a bright yellow tinge.

/

CARRAGEEN BLANC-MANGE.— This is made of a
sea-weed resembling moss, that is found in large quantities
•on some parts of our coast, and is- to be purchased in the
cities at most of the druggists. Carrageen costs but little, and
is considered extremely salutary for persons of delicate consti-
tutions. Its glutinous nature when boiled, renders it very
suitable for blanc-mange.

. From a quart of rich unskimmed milk take half a pint.
Add to the half pint two ounces of bitter almonds, blanched
and pounded ; half a nutmeg ; and a large stick of cinnamon,
broken up ; also eight or nine blades of mace. Set it in a
closed pan over hot coals, and boil it half an hour. In the
mean time, wash through two or three cold waters half a hand-
ful of carrageen, (if you put in too much it will communicate
an unpleasant taste to the blanc-mange,) and add it to the
pint and a half of cold milk. Then when it is sufficiently
flavoured, stir in the boiled milk, adding gradually half a
pound of powdered sugar, and mix the whole very well.
Set it over the fire, and keep it boiling hard five minutes
from the time it has come to a boil. Then strain it into
a pitcher; wet your moulds or cups with cold water, put
the blanc-mange into them, and leave it undisturbed till it
.congeals.

After washing the sea-weed, you must drain it well, and
shake the water from the sprigs. You may flavour the mix-
lure (after it is boiled and strained) with rose-water or peach-
water, stirred in at the last.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 329

ARROW ROOT BLANC-MANGE. —Take a tea-cup full
of arrow root, put it into a large bowl, and dissolve it m a
little cold water. When it is melted, pour off the water, and
let the arrow root remain undisturbed. Boil in halt* a pint of
unskimmed milk, (made very sweet with white sugar.) a

beaten nutmeg, and eight or nine blades of mace, mixed with

t

the juice and grated peel of a lemon. When it has boiled
long enough to be highly flavoured, strain it into a pint and a
half of very rich milk or cream, and add a quarter of a pound
of sugar. Boil the whole for ten minutes; then strain it.
boiling hot, over_ the arrow root. Stir it well and frequently
till cold ; then put it into moulds and let it set to congeal.

JAUNE-MANGE. — Put two ounces of isino-lass into a

o

pint of water, and boil it till it has dissolved. Then strain il
into a porcelain skillet, and add to it half a pint of white wine :
the grated peel and juice of two large deep-coloured oranges :
half a pound of loaf-sugar ; and the yolks only of eight eggs
that have been well beaten. Mix the whole thoroughly;
place it on hot coals and simmer it, stirring it all the time til)
it boils hard. Then take it off directly, strain it, and put it
into moulds to conceal.

-O

CALVES'" FOOT JELLY.

THE best calves' feet for jelly are those that have had the
hair removed by scalding, but are not skinned ; the skin con-
taining a great deal of glutinous matter. In Philadelphia,
unskinned calves' feet are generally to be met with in the
lower or Jersey market.

Boil a set of feet in four quarts of cold water ; (if the feet

have been skinned allow but three quarts;) they should boij

28*

330 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

slowly till the liquid is reduced to two quarts or one half the
original quantity, and the meat has dropped in rags from tne
bone. Then strain the liquid ; measure and set it away in a
large earthen pan to get cold ; and let it rest till next morning.
Then if you do not find it a firm cake of jelly, boil it over
again with an ounce of isinglass, and again set it away till
cold and congealed. Remove the sediment from the bottom
of the cake of jelly, and carefully scrape off all the fat. The
smallest bit of fat will eventually render it dull and cloudy.
Press some clean blotting paper all over it to absorb what
little grease may yet remain. Then cut the cake of jelly
into pieces, and put it into a porcelain kettle to melt over
the fire. To each quart allow a pound of broken up loaf-
sugar, a pint of Madeira wine, and a large glass of brandy ;
three large sticks of the best Ceylon cinnamon broken
up, (if common cinnamon, use four sticks,) the grated peel
and juice of four large lemons ; and lastly, the whites
of four eggs strained, but -not beaten. In breaking the
eggs, take care to separate them so nicely that none of the
yellow gets into the white ; as the smallest portion of yolk of
egg will prevent the jelly from being perfectly clear. Mix
all the ingredients well together, and put them to the jelly in
the kettle. Set it on the fire, and boil it hard for twenty
minutes, but do not stir it. Then throw in a tea-cup of cold
water, and boil it five minutes longer; then take the kettle
off the fire, and set it aside, keeping it closely covered for
half an hour ; this will improve its clearness. Take a large
\vh5te flannel jelly-bag ; suspend it by the strings to a wooden
frame made for such purposes, or to the legs of a table. Pour
in the mixture boiling hot, and when it is all in, close up the
mouth of the bag that none of the flavour may evaporate,
g; it over a deep white dish or bowl, and let it drip slowly ,

CUSTARDP, C REAMS, ETC. 3UJ

but on no account squeeze the hug1, as that will cor'ainly make
the jelly dull and cloudy. If it is not clear the first time,
empty the bag, wash it, put in the jelly that has dripped into
the dish, and pass it through again. Repeat this till it is
clear. You may put it into moulds to congeal, setting them in

*

a cold place. When it is quite firm, wrap a cloth that has
been dipped in hot water, round the moulds to make the
jelly turn out easily. But it will look much better, and the
taste will be more livety, if you break it up after it has con-
gealed, and put it, into a glass bowl, or heap it in jelly glasses
Unless it is broken, its sparkling clearness shows to little
advantage.

After the clear jelly has done dripping, you may return the
ingredients to the kettle, and warm them over again for about
five minutes. Then put them into the bag (which you may
now squeeze hard) till all the liquid is pressed out of it into
a second dish or bowl. This last jelly cannot, of course,
be clear, but it will taste very well, and may be eaten in the

family.

A pound of the best raisins picked and washed, and boiled
with the other ingredients, is thought by many persons greatly
to improve the richness and flavour of calves'- feet jelly. They
must be put in whole, and can be afterwards used for a
pudding.

Similar jelly may be made of pigs' or sheep's feet : but it
is not so nice and delicate as that of calves.

By boiling two sets, or eight calves' feet in five quarts of
water, you may be sure of having the jelly very firm. In
damp weather it is sometimes very difficult to get it to con-
geal if you use but one set of feet ; there is the same risk if
the weather is hot. In winter it may be made seveial days

332 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

before it is to be eaten. In summer it will keep in ice for two
days ; perhaps longer.

TO PRESERVE CREAM.— Take foar quarts of new
cream ; it must be of the richest quality, and have no milk

•

mixed with it. Put it into a preserving kettle, and simmer it
gently over the fire ; carefully taking off whatever scum may
rise -to the top, till nothing more appears. Then stir, gra-
dually, into it four pounds of double-refined loaf-sugar that
has been finely powdered and sifted. Let the cream and
sugar boil briskly together half an hour; skimming it, if
necessary, and afterwards stirring it as long as it continues
on the fire. Put it into small bottles ; and when it is cold,
cork it, and secure the corks with melted rosin. This cream,
if properly prepared, will keep perfectly good during a long
sea voyage. •

ITALIAN CREAM. — Put two pints of cream into two
bo\vls. With one bowl mix six ounces of powdered loaf-
sugar, the juice of two large lemon's, and two glasses of white
wine. Then add the other pint of cream, and stir the whole
very hard. Boil two ounces of isinglass with four small tea-
cups full of water, till it is reduced to one half. Then stir the
isinglass lukewarm into the other ingredients, and put them
into a glass dish to congeal.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.— Melt six ounces of scraped
chocolate and four ounces of white sugar in one pint of boil-
ing milk. Stir in an ounce of dissolved isinglass. When
the whole has boiled, pour it into a mould.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ETC. 333

COLOURING FOR CONFECTIONARY.

RED. — Take twenty grains of cochineal, and fifteen grains
of cream of tartar finely powdered ; add to them a piece of
alum the size of a cherry stone, and boil them with a jill of soft
water, in an earthen vessel, slowly, for half an hour. Then
strain it through muslin, and keep it tightly corked in a phial.

COCHINEAL FOR PRESENT USE.— Take two cents'

**

worth of cochineal. Lay it on a flat plate, and bruise it with
the blade of a knife. Put it into half a tea-cup of alcohol.
Let it stand a quarter of an hour, and then filter it through
fine muslin.

YELLOW COLOURING.— Take a little saffron, put it
into an earthen vessel with a very small quantity of cold soft
water, and let it steep till the colour of the infusion is a bright-
yellow. Then strain it. The yellow seeds of lilies will
answer nearly the same purpose.

GRE.EN. — Take fresh spinach or beet leaves, and pound
them in a marble mortar. If you want it for immediate use,
take off the green froth as it rises, and mix it with the article
yon intend to colour. If you wish to keep it a few days, take
the juice when you have pressed out a tea-cup full, and adding
to it a piece of alum the size of a pea, give it a boil in a
saucepan.

WHITE. — Blanch some almonds, soak them in cold
water, and then pound them to a smooth paste in a marble
mortar ; adding at intervals a little rose water.

Thick cream will communicate a white colour.

These preparations may be used for jellies, ice creams,
blanc-mange, syllabubs, icing for cakes ; and for various
articles of confectionary.

334

CAKES, ETC.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

UNLESS you are provided with proper and convenient
utensils and materials, the difficulty of preparing cakes will
be great, and in most instances a failure; involving disappoint-
ment, waste of time, and useless expense. Accuracy in pro-
portioning the ingredients is indispensable ; and therefore
scales and weights, and a set of tin measures (at least from a
quart down to a jill) are of the utmost importance. A large
sieve for flour is also necessary ; and smaller ones for sugar
and spice. There should be a marble mortar, or one of lignum
vitae, (the hardest of all wood ;) those of iron (however well
tinned) are apt to discolour the articles pounded in them. Spice
may be ground in a mill kept exclusively for that purpose.
Every kitchen should be provided with spice-boxes. You
should have a large grater for lemon, cocoa-nut, &c., and a small
one for nutmeg. Butter and sugar cannot be stirred together
conveniently without a spaddle or spattle, which is a round stick
flattened at one end ; and a deep earthen pan with sides nearly
straight. For beating eggs, you should have hickory rods or a
wire whip, and broad shallow earthen pans. Neither the eggs,
nor the butter and susrar should be beaten in tin, as the cold-

o 7

ness of the metal will prevent them from becoming light.

For baking large cakes, the pans (whether of block tin or
earthen) should have straight sides ; if the sides slope in-
ward, there will be much difficulty in icing the cake. Pans
with a hollow tube going up from the centre, are supposed to
diffuse the heat mor? equally through the middle of the cake.
Buns and ?ome 'other cakes should be baked in square shallow

CAKES, ETC. 335

pans of block tin or iron. Little tins for queen cakes, &c. are
most convenient when of a round or oval shape. All bakinc*
pans, whether large or small, should be well greased with
fresh butter before the mixture is put into them, and should
be filled but little more than half. You should have at least
two dozen little tins, that a second supply may be ready for
the oven the moment the first is -taken out. You will also
want tin cutters for cakes that are rolled out in douo-h.

O

All the utensils should be cleaned and put away as soon as
they are done with. They should be all kept together, and,
if possible, not used for any other purposes.*

As it is always desirable that cake-making should be com-
menced at an early hour, it is well on the day previous to
ascertain if all the materials are in the house ; that there may
be no unnecessary delay from sending or waiting for them in
the morning. Wastefulness is to be avoided in every thing;
but it is utterly impossible that cakes can be good (or indeed
any thing else) without a liberal allowance of good materials.
Cakes are frequently rendered hard, heavy, and uneatable by
a misplaced economy in eggs and butter; or tasteless and
insipid for want of their due seasoning of spice, lemon, &c.

Use no flour but the best superfine ; if the flour is of inferior
quality, the cakes .will be heavy, ill-coloured, and unfit to
eat. Even the best flcur should always be sifted. No butter

•

that is not fresh and good, should ever be put into cakes ; foi
it will give them a disagreeable taste which can never be
disguised by the other ingredients. Even when of excellent
quality, the butter will be improved by washing it in cold

•' Hickory rods, spaddles, etc. can be obtained by bespeaking them
at a turner's.

Apple-eorers are sold by tinners.

336 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

water, and squeezing and pressing- it. Except for gingerbread,
use only white sugar, (for the finest cakes the best loaf,) and
have it pulverized by pounding it in a mortar, or crushing it
on the pasteboard with the rolling-pin. It should then be

•

sifted. In mixing butter and sugar, sift the sugar into a deep
pan, cut up the butter in it, set it in a warm place to soften,
and then stir it very hard* with the spaddle, till it becomes
quite light, and of the consistence of cream. In preparing
eggs, break them one at a time, into a saucer, that, in case
there should be a bad one among them, it may not spoil the
others. Put them irAo a broad shallow pan, and beat them
with rods or with a wire whisk, not merely till they froth,
but long afterwards, till the froth subsides, and they become
thick and smooth like boiled custard. .White of egg by
itself may be beaten with small rods, or with a three-pronged
fork, or a broad knife. It is a very easy process, and should
be continued till the liquid is all converted into a stiff froth so
firm that it will not drop from the rods when held up. In
damp weather it is sometimes difficult to get the froth stiff.

The first thing to be done in making cake, is to weigh or
measure all the ingredients. Next sift the flour, po.wder the
sugar, pound or grind the spice, and prepare the fruit; after-
wards mix and stir the butter and sugar, and lastly beat the
eggs ; as, if allowed to stand any time, they will fall and
become heavy. When all the ingredients are mixed together,
they should be stirred very hard at the last ; and (unless there
is yeast in the cake) the sooner it is put into the oven the
better. While baking, no air should be admitted to it, except
for a moment, now and then$ .when it is necessary to examine
if it is baking properly. .For baking cakes, the best guide is
practice and experience ; so much depending on the state of
the fire, that it is impossible to lay down any infallible rules.

CAKES, ETC. 337

[f you bake in a Dutch oven, let the lid be first heated by

standing1 it up before the fire ; and cover the inside of the

bottom with sand or ashes, to temper the heat. For the same

purpose, when you bake in a stove, place bricks under the

pans. Sheets of iron, without sides will be found very useful

for baking small fiat e&kes. For cakes of this description, the

fire should be brisk ; if baked slowly, they will spread, lose

their shape, and run into each other. For all cakes, the heat

should be regular and even ; if one part of the oven is cooler

than another, the cake will bake imperfectly, and have heavy

streaks through it. Gingerbread (on account of the molasses)

is more apt to scorch and burn than any other cake ; therefore

it should be baked with a moderate fire.

It is safest, when practicable, to send alljarge cakes to a
professional baker's ; provided they can be put immediately
into the oven, as standing will spoil them. If you bake them
at home, you will find that they are generally done when they
cease to make a simmering noise ; and when on probing them
to the bottom with a twig, from a broom, or with the blade of
the knife, it comes out quite clean. Tha fire should then be
withdrawn, and the cake allowed to get cold in the oven.
Small cakes should be laid to cool on an inverted sieve. It
may be recommended to novices in the art of baking, to do
every thing in little tins or in very shallow pans ; there being
then less risk than with a large thick cake. In mixing batter

o fj

that is to be baked in small cakes, use a less proportion of
flour.

Small cakes should be kept closely covered in stone jars.
For large ones, you should have broad stone pans with close
lids, or else tin boxes. All cakes that are made with yeast,
should be eaten quite fresh ; so also should sponge cake.

Some sorts may be kept a week ; black cake much longer.

29

338 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING,

BLACK CAKE.

PREPARE two pounds of currants by picking .them clean,
washing and draining them through a cullender, and then
spreading them out on a large dish to dry before the fire or in
the sun, placing the dish in a slanting position. Pick and
stone two pounds of the best raisins, and cut them in half.
Drtdge the currants (when they ^re dry) and the raisins
thickly with flour to prevent tl:-:m i. inking in the cake.

Giind or powder as much cinnamon as will make a large
gravy-spoonful when done ; also a table-spoonful of mace and
four nutmegs ; sift these spices, and mix them all together in
a cup. Mix together two large glasses of white wine, one of
brandy and one of rose water, and cut a pound of citron into
large slips. Sift a pound of flour into one pan, and a pound
of powdered loaf-sugar into another. Cut up among the
sugar a pound of the best fresh butter, and stir them to a
cream. Beat twelve eggs till perfectly thick and smooth, and
stir them gradually into the butter and sugar, alternately with
the flour. Then add by degrees, the fruit, spice and liquor,
and stir the whole very harcl at the last. Then put the mix-
ture into a well-buttered tin pan with straight or perpendicular
sides. Put it immediately into a moderate oven, and bake it
at least six hours. "When done, take it out and set it on
an inverted sieve to cool gradually. Ice it next morning;
first dredging the outside all over with flour, and then
wiping it with a towel. This will make the icing stick.

ICING. — A quarter of a pound of finely-powdered loaf-
sugar, of the whitest and best quality, is the usual allowance
to one white of egg. For the cake in the preceding receipt,
three quarters of a pound of sugar and the whites of three

CAKES, ETC. 339

eggs will be about the proper quantity. Beat the white of
egg by itself till it stands alone. Have ready the powdered
sugar, and then beat it hard into the white of egg, till it
•becomes thick and smooth ; flavouring it as you proceed
with the juice of a lemon, or a little extract of roses.
Spread it evenly over the cake with a broad knife or a
feather ; if you find it too thin, beat in a little more pow-
dered sugar. Cover with it thickly the top and sides of the
cake, taking care not to have it rough and streaky. When dry,
put on a second coat ; and when that is nearly dry, lay on the
ornaments. You may flower it with coloured sugar-sand or
nonpavels; but a newer and more elegant mode is to decorate
it with devices and borders in white sugar. These are put
on with a syringe, moving it skilfully, so as to form the
pattern. A little gum tragacanth should be mixed with

this icing.

You may colour icing of a pale or deep yellow, by rubbing

the lumps of loaf-sugar (before they are powdered) upon the
outside of a large lemon or orange. This will also flavour
it finely.

Almond icing, for a very fine cake, is made by mixing
gradually with the white of egg and sugar, some almond s,^
half bitter and half sweet, that have been pounded in a mortar
with rose water to a smooth paste. The whole must be well
incorporated, and spread over the cake near half an inch thick.
It must be set in a cool oven to dr)r, and then taken out and
covered with a smooth plain ieino- of su^-ar and white of efo\

1 O O O ™

Whatever icing is left, may be used to make maccaroons or
kisses.

POUND CAKE. — Prepare a table-spoonful of powdered
cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, and two nutmegs

340 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

grated or powdered. Mix together in a tumbler, a glass of
white wine, a glass of brandy, and a glass of rose water.
Sift a pound of the finest flour into a broad pan, and powder a
pound of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a deep pan, and cut"
up in it a pound of fresh butter. Warm them by the fire till
soft ; and then stir them to a cream. When they are perfectly
light, add gradually the spice and liquor, a little at a time.
Beat ten eggs as light as possible, and stir them by degrees
into the mixture alternately with the flour. Then add the
juice of two lemons or three large oranges. Stir the
whole very hard ; put it into a deep tin pan with straight 01
upright sides, .and bake it in a moderate oven from two to
three hours. If baked in a Dutch even, take of* the lid when
you have ascertained that the cake is quite done, and let it
remain in the oven to cool gradually. If any part is burnt,
scrape it off as soon as cold.

It may be iced either warm or cool ; first dredging the cake
with flour and then wiping it off. It will be best to put on two
coats of icing ; the second coat not till the first is entirely dry.
Flavour the icing with essence of lemon, or with extract of
roses.

This cake will be very delicate if made with a pound of
rice flour instead of wheat.

INDIAN POUND CAKE.— Sift a pint of fine yellow
Indian meal, arid half a pint of wheat flour, and mix them
well together. Prepare a nutmeg beaten, and mixed with a
table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir together till very
light, half a pound of powdered white sugar ; and half a pound
of fresh butter ; adding the spice, with a glass of white wine,
and a glass of brandy. Having beaten eight eggs as light as
possible, stir them into the butter and sugar, a little at a time*

CAKES, ETC. S41

In turn with the meal. Give the whole a hard stirring at
the last; put it into a well-buttered tin pan, and bake it -About
two hours.

This cake (like every thing else in which Indian meal is an
ingredient) should be eaten quite fresh ; it is. then very nice.
When stale, (even a day old,) it becomes dry and rough 2.3
if made with saw-dust.

QUEEN CAKE. — Sift fourteen ounces of the finest flour,
being two ounces less than a pound. Cakes baked in little
tins, should have a smaller proportion of flour than those that
are done in large loaves. Prepare a table-spoonful of beaten
cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of mace, and two beaten nutmegs ;
and mix them all together when powdered. Mix in a tumbler,
half a glass of white wine, half a glass of brandy, and half a
glass of rose water. Powder a pound of loaf-sugar, and sift
it into a deep pan ; cut up in it a pound of fresh butter ; warm
them by the fire, and stir them to a cream. Add gradually
the spice and the liquor. Beat ten eggs very light, and stir
them into the mixture in turn with the flour. Stir in the
juice of two lemons, and beat the whole very hard. Butter
some little tins ; half fill them with the mixture ; set them
into a Brisk oven, and bake them about a quarter of an hour,
When done, they will shrink from the sides of the tins.
After you turn them out, spread them on an inverted sieve
to cool. If you have occasion to fill your tins a second time,
scrape and wipe them well before they are used again.

Make an icing, flavoured with lemon juice or with extract
of roses ; and spread two coats of it on the queen cakes. Set
them to dry in a warm place, "but not near enough the fire to
discolour the icing and cause it to crack.

Queen cakes are best the day they are baked.

29*

342 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

FRUIT QUEEN CAKES.— Make them in the abov®
manner, with the addition of a pound of currants, (picked,
washed, dried, and floured,) and the juice and grated peel of
two large leirions, stirred in gradually at the last. Instead of
currants, you may put in sultana or seedless raisins, cut IB
half and floured. You may substitute oranges for lemons.

You may make a fruit pound cake in this manner.

LADY CAKE .—Take a quarter of a pound of shelled
bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Put them into a bowl of
boiling water, (renewing the water as it cools,) and let them
lie in it till the skin peels off easily ; then throw them, as
they are blanched, into a bowl of cold water, which will much
improve their whiteness. Pound them, one at a time, in a
mortar ; pouring in frequently a few drops of rose water to
prevent them from oiling and being heavy. Cut up three
quarters of a pound of fresh butter into a whole pound of
powdered loaf-sugar. Having warmed it, stir it to a light
cream, and then add very gradually the pounded almonds,
beating them in very hard. Sift into a separate pan half
a pound and two ounces of flour, and beat in another pan to a
stiff froth, the whites only of seventeen eggs. Stir the flour
and the white of egg alternately into the pan of butter, sugar
and almonds, a very little at a time of each. Having beaten '
the whole as hard as possible, put it into a buttered tin pan,
(a square one is best,) and set it immediately into a moderate

X

oven. Bake it about an hour, more or less, according to its
thickness. When cool, ice it, flavouring the icing with le-
mon juice. It is best the day it is baked, and should
be eaten fresh. When you put it away wrap it in a thick
cloth.
If you bake it in little tins, use two ounces less of flour.

CAKES, ETC. 343

SPANISH BUNS. — Cut up three quarters of a pound of
butter into a jill and a half or three wine glasses of rich un-
skimmed milk, (cream will be still better,) and set the pan on
a stove or near the fire, till the batter becomes soft enough to
stir all through the milk with a knife ; but do not let it get so
hot as to oil of itself. Then set it away in a cold place. Sift
into separate pans, a half pound and a quarter of a pound of
the finest flour ; and having beaten four eggs as light as pos-
sible, mix them with the milk and butter, and then pour the
whole into the pan that contains the half pound of flour.
Having previously prepared two grated nutmegs, and a table-
spoonful of powdered cinnamon and mace,- stir them into tha
mixture ; adding six drops of extract of roses, or a large table-
spoonful of rose water. Add a wine glass and a half of the
best fresh yeast from a brewery. If you cannot procure
yeast of the very best quality, an attempt to make these buns

•

will most probably prove a failure, . as the variety of other
ingredients will prevent them from rising unless the yeast is
as strong as possible. Before you pat it in, skim off the thin
liquid or beer from the top, and then stir up the bottom. After
you have put in the yeast, add the sugar ; stirring it well in,
a very little at a time. If too much sugar is put in at once,
the buns will be heavy. Lastly, sprinkle in the quarter of a
pound of flour that was sifted separately ; and stir the whole

•

very hard. Put the mixture into a square pan well buttered,
and (having covered it with a cloth) place it in a corner of the
hearth to rise, which will require, perhaps, about five hours ;
therefore these buns should always be made early in the chy.
Do not bake it till the batter has risen to twice its original
quantity, and is covered on the top with bubbles ; then set
the pan into a moderate oven, and bake it half an hour.
Let it get cool in the pan ; then cut it into squares, and either

344 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

ice them, (flavouring the icing with essence of lemon or
extract of roses,) or sift grated loaf-sugar thickly over them.
These buns (like all other cakes made with yeast) should be
eaten the day they are baked ; as when stale, they fall and
become hard.

In mixing them, you may stir in. at the last half a pound of
raisins, stoned, chopped and floured ; or half a pound of
currants. If you use fruit, put in half a wine glass more of
the yeast.

•

BATH BUNS.— Boil a little saffron in sufficient water to
cover it, till . the liquid is of a bright yellow ; then strain it,
and set it to cool. Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a
pound of sifted flour, and make it into a paste with four eggs
that have been well beaten, and a large wine glass of the best
and strongest yeast ; adding the infusion of saffron to colour
it yellow. Put the dough into a pan, cover it with a cloth,
and set it before the fire to rise. When it is quite light, mix
into it a quarter of a pound of powdered and sifted loaf-
sugar ; a grated nutmeg ; and, if .you choose, two or three
spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Roll out the dough into a
thick sheet, and divide it into round cakes with a cutter.
Strew the top of each bun with carraway comfits, and bake
them on flat tins buttered well. They should be eaten
the day they are baked, as they are not good unless quite
fresh.

JELLY CAKE. — Sift three quarters of a pound cf flour.
Stir to a cream a pound of butter and a pound of powdered
white sugar, and mix in half a tea-cup of rose water, and a
grated nutmeg, with a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon.
Heat ten eggs very light, and add them gradually to the mix-

CAKES, ETC. 345

ture, alternately with the flour ; stirring the whole very hard.
Put your griddle into the oven of a stove ; and when it is quite
hot, grease it with fresh butter tied in a clean rag, and set on

•

it a tin cake-ring, (about the size of a large dinner plate,)
greased also. Dip out two large table-spoon|iils and a half
of the cake batter; put it within the tin ring, and bake it
about five minutes (or a little longer) without turning it.
When it is done, take it carefully off; place it on a large dish
to cool ; wipe the griddle, grease it afresh, and put on another
cake. Proceed thus till all the batter is baked. When the
cakes are cool, spread every one thickly over with grape jelly,
peach marmalade, or any other sweetmeat that is smooth and
thick; currant jelly will be found too thin, and is liable to run
off. Lay the cakes smoothly one on another, (each having a
layer of jelly or marmalade between,) and either grate loaf-
sugar over the top one, or ice it smoothly; marking the
icing with cross lines of coloured sugar-sand, all the lines
meeting at the centre so as to divide the cake, when cut, into
triangular or wedge-shaped slices. If you ice it, add the
juice of a lemon to the icing.

Jelly cake should be eaten fresh. It is "best the day it is
baked.

You may bake small jelly cakes in muffin rings.

SPONGE CAKE— Sift half .a pound of flour,* and
powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar. Grate the yellow
rind and squeeze into a saucer the juice of three lemons. Beat
twelve eggs ; and when they are as light as possible, beat
into them gradually and very hard the sugar, adding the
lemon, and beating the whole for a long time. Then by

* Sponge cake may be made with rice flour.

346 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

degrees, stir in the flour slowly and lightly ; for if the flour
is stirred hard and fast into sponge cake, it will make it
porous and tough. Have ready buttered, a sufficient number
cf little square tins, (the thinner they are the better,) half
fill them with the mixture ; grate loaf-sugar over the top of
each ; put them immediately into a quick oven, and bake them
about ten minutes ; taking out one to try when you think they
are done. Spread them on an inverted sieve to cool. When
baked in small square cakes, they are generally called Naples
biscuits.

If 3Tou are willing to take the trouble, they will bake much
nicer in little square paper cases, which you must make of
thick letter paper, turning up the sides all round, and pasting
together or sewing up the corners.

If you bake the mixture in one large cake, (which is not
advisable unless you have had much practice in baking,) put
it into a buttered tin pan or mo'uld. and set it directly into a
hot Dutch oven, as it will fall and become heavy if allowed
to stand. Keep plenty of live coals on the top, and under
the bottom till the cake has risen very high, and is of a fine
colour ; then diminish the fire, and keep it moderate till the
cake is done. It will take about an hour. When cool, ice it ;
adding a little lemon juice or extract of roses to the icing.
Sponge cake is best the day it is baked.

Diet Bread is a foolish name for Sponge Cake.

ALMOND CAKE. — Blanch, and pound in a mortar
four ounces of shelled sweet almonds and two ounces of
shelled Litter ones; adding, as you proceed, sufficient rose-
water to make them light and white. Sift half a pound of
flour, and powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat thirteen eggs ;
and when they are as light as possible, stir into them alter-

CAKES, ETC. 347

nately the almonds, sugar, and flour; adding a grated nutmeg.
Butter a large square pan; put in the mixture, and bake it
in a brisk oven about half an hour, less or more, according to
its thickness. When cool, ice it. It is best when eaten
•fresh.

-

COCOA-NUT CAKE.— Cut up and wash a cocoa-nut,
and grate as much of it as will weigh a pound. Powder a
pound of loaf-sugar. Beat fifteen eggs very light ; and then
beat into them, gradually, the sugar. Then add by degrees
the cocoa-nut ; and lastly, a handful of sifted flour. Stir the
whole very hard, and bake it either in a large tin pan, or in
little tins. The oven should be rather quick.

WASHINGTON CAKE.— Stir together a pound of butter
and a pound of sugar ; and sift into another pan a pound of
flour. Beat six eggs very light, and stir- them into the butter
and sugar, alternately with the flour and a pint of rich milk or
cream; if the milk is sour it will be no disadvantage. Add
a glass of wine, a glass of brandy, a powdered nutmeg, and a
table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Lastly, stir in a small
tea-spoonful of soda, or sal-aratus, that has been melted
in tepid water; take care not to put in too much soda,
lest it give the cake an unpleasant taste. Stir the whole very
hard ; put it into a buttered tin pan, (or into little tins,) and
bake it in a brisk oven. Wrapped in a thicK cloth, this cake
will keep soft for a week.

CIDER CAKE. — Pick, wash, and dry a pound of currants,
and sprinkle them well with flour ; and prepare two nutmegs,
and a large table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Sift half a
pound and two ounces of flour. Stir together till very light,

348 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Bix ounces of fresh butter, and half a pound of powdeied
white sugar; and add gradually the spice, with two wine
glasses of brandy, (or one of brandy and one of white W7ine.)
Beat four eggs very light,. and stir them into the mixture alter-
nately with the flour. Add by degrees half a pint of brisk
cider; and then stir in the* currants, a few at a time. Lastly,
a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or sal-aratus dissolved in a
little cider. Having stirred the whole very hard, put it into a
buttered tin pan, have the oven ready, and put in the caKe
immediately. Bake it in a brisk oven an hour or more, accord-
ing to its thickness. Or you may bake it as little cakes,
putting it into smajl tins ; in which case use but half a pound
of flour in mixing the batter.

ELECTION CAKE.— Make a sponge (as it is called) in
the following manner : — Sift into a pan two pounds and a half
of flour ; and into a deep plate another pound. Take a second
pan, and stir two table-spoonfuls of the best West India
molasses into five jilis or two tumblers and a half of strong
fresh yeast ; adding a jill of water,' warm, but not hot. Then
stir gradually into the yeast,* &c. the pound of flour that you
have sifted separately. Cover it, and let it set by the fire
three hours to rise. While it is r rising, prepare the other
ingredients, by stirring in a deep pan two pounds of fresh
butter and two pounds of powdered 'sugar, till they are quite
light and creamy ; adding to them a table-spoonful of pow-
dered cinnamon ; a tea-spoonful of powdered mace ; and two
powdered nutmegs. Stir in also half a pint of rich milk.
Beat fourteen eggs till very smooth and thick, and stir them
gradually into the mixture, alternately with the two pounds
and a half of flour which you sifted first. When the sponge
is quite light, mix the whole together, and bake it in buttere'd

CAKES, ETC. 349

tin pans in a moderate oven. It should be eaten fresh, as no
sweet cake made with yeast is so good after the first day. If
it is not probable that the whole will come into use on tho day
it is baked, mix but half the above quantity.

MORAVIAN SUGAR CAKE.— Cut up a quarter of a
pound of butter into a pint of rich milk, and warm it till the
butter becomes soft ; then stir it about in the milk so as to mix
them well. Sift three quarters of a pound of flour (or a pint
and a half) into, a deep pan, and making a hole in the middle
of it, stir in a large table-spoonful of the best brewer's yeast in
which a salt-spoonful of salt has been dissolved ;. and then

•

thin it with the milk and butter. Cover it, and set it. near the
fire to rise. If the yeast is sufficiently strong, it will most
probably be light in two hours. When it is quite light, mix
with the dough two beaten eggs and three quarters of a
pound more of sifted flour; adding a tea-spoonful of oil
of cinnamon, and stirring it very hard. Butter a large
round baking pan, arfd put the mixture into it. Set it to risex
again, as before. Mix together five ounces or a large colFee-
cup of fine brown sugar ; two ounce's of butter ; and two
table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon. When the dough is
thoroughly light, make deep incisions all over it, at equal dis-
tances, and fill them with the mixture of butter, sugar and
cinnamon , pressing it hard down into the bottom of the holes,
and closing the dough a little at the top to. prevent the season-
ing from running out. Strew some sugar over the top of the
cake ; set it immediately into the oven, and bake it from
an hour and a half to two hours, or more, in a brisk oven
in proportion to its thickness. When cool, cut it into squares.
This is a very good plain cake ; but do not attempt it unless

you have excellent yeast.

30

350 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. — Spread a quart of ripe
huckleberries on a large dish, and dredge them thickly with,
rlour. Mix together half a pint of milk ; half a pint of mo-
lasses ; half a pint of powdered sugar ; and half a pound of
butter. Warm them by the fire till the butter is quite soft*
then stir them all together, and set them away till cold. Pre-
pare a large table-spoonful of powdered clones and cinnamon
mixed. Beat five eggs very light, and stir them gradually into
the other ingredients ; adding, by degrees, sufficient sifted flour
to make a thick batter. Then stir in a small tea-spoonful of
pearl-ash or dissolved sal-aratus. Lastly, add by degrees the
huckleberries. Put the mixture into a buttered pan, or into little
tins, and bake it in a moderate oven. It is best the second day.

BREAD CAKE.— When you are making wheat bread, and
the dough is quite light and ready to bake, take out as much
of it as would make a twelve cent loaf, and mix with it a tea-
cup full of powdered sugar, and a tea-cup full of butter that
lias been softened and stirred about in a tea-cup of warm
milk. Add also a beaten egg. Knead it very well, put it
into a square pan, dredged with flour, cover it, and set it near
the fire for half an hour. Then bake it in- a moderate o^n,
and wrap it in a thick cloth as soon as it is done. It is best
when fresh.

FEDERAL CAKES.

SIFT two pounds of flour into a deep pan, and cut up in it
a pound of fresh butter ; rub the butter into the flour with
your hands, adding by degrees, half a pound of powdered
white sugar; a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon ; a beaten
nutmeg; a glass of wine or brandy, and two glasses of

CAKES, ETC. 351

rose water. Beat four eggs very light ; and add them to the
mixture with a salt-spoonful of soda melted in a little
lukewarm water. Mix all well together ; add, if necessary,
sufficient cold water to make it into a dough just stift enough
to roll out ; knead it slightly, and then roll it out into a sheet
about half an inch thick. Cut it out into small cakes with a
tin cutter, or with the edge of a tumbler ; dipping the cutter
frequently into flour, to prevent its sticking. Lay the cakes
in shallow pans buttered, or on flat sheets of tin, (taking care
not to let them touch, lest they should run into each other,)
and bake them of a light brown in a brisk oven. They are
best the second day.

SAVOY BISCUITS.— Take four eggs, and separate the
whites from the yolks. Beat the whites by themselves, to a
stiff froth ; then add gradually the yolks, and beat them both
together for a long time. Next add by degrees half a pound
of the finest loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted, beating it in
very hard ; and the juice of a lemon or orange. Lastly, stir
in a quarter of a pound of sifted flour, a little at a time.
"Stir the whole very hard, and then with a spoon lay it on
sheets of white paper, forming it into thin cakes of an" oblong
or oval shape. Take care not to place them too close to each
other, lest they run. Grate loaf-sugar over the top of each,
to assist in keeping them in shape. Have the oven quite
ready'to put them in immediately. It should be rather brisk.
They will bake in a few minutes, and should be but slightly
coloured. They are sometimes called lady-fingers.

ALMOXD MACCAROONS.— Take a pound of shelled
sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound of shelled bitter
almonds. Blanch them in scalding water, mix them together,

352 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

and pound them, one or two at a time, in a mortar to a very
smooth paste ; adding frequently a little rose water to prevent
them from oiling and becoming heavy. Prepare a pound of
powdered loaf-sugar, lieat the whites of seven eggs to a
stiff froth, and then beat into it gradually the powdered sugar,
adding a table-spoonful of mixed spice, (nutmeg, mace, and
cinnamon.) Then mix in the pounded almonds, (which it is
best to prepare the day before,) and stir the whole very hard.
Form the mixture with a spoon into little round or oval cakes,
upon sheets of buttered white paper, and grate white sugar
over each. Lay the paper in square shallow pans, or on iron
sheets, and bake the maccaroons a few minutes in a brisk
oven, till .of a pale brown. When cold, take them off the
papers.

It will be well to try two or three first, and if you find them
Jikely to lose their shape and run into each other, you may
omit the papers and make the mixture up into little balls with
your hands well floured ; baking them • in shallow tin pans
slightly buttered.

You may make maccaroons with icing that is left from a
.cake; adding pounded almonds &c.

COCOA-NUT MACCAROONS.— Beat to a stiff froth the
whites of six eggs, and then beat into it very hard a pound of
powdered loaf-sugar. Mix with it a pound of grated cocoa-
nut, or sufficient to make a stiff paste. Then flour your hands,
and make it up into little balls. Lay them on sheets of but-
tered white paper, and bake them in a brisk oven ; first grating
loat-sugar over each. They will be done in a few minutes.

Maccaroons may be made in a similar manner of pounded
cream-nuts, ground-nuts, filberts, or English walnuts.

CAKES, ETC. 333

WHITE COCOA-NUT CAKES.— Break up a cocoa-nut;
peel, and wash the pieces in cold water, and grate them. Mix
in the milk of the nut and some powdered loaf-sugar.and then
form the grated cocoa-nut into little balls upon sheetTof white
paper. Make them all of a regular and handsome form, and
touch the top of each with a spot of red sugar-sand. Do not
bake them, but place them to dry for twenty-four hours, in a
warm room where nothing is likely to disturb them.

COCOA-NUT JUMBLES. — Grate a large cocoa-nut.
Rub half a' pound of butter into a pound of sifted flour, and
wet it with three beaten eggs, and a little rose water. Add
by degrees the cocoa-nut, so as to form a stiff dough. Flour
your hands and your paste-board, and dividing the dougn into
equal portions, make the jumbles with your hands into long
rolls, and then curl them round and join the ends so as to form
rings. Grate loaf-sugar over them; lay them in buttered
pans., (not so near as to run into each other,) and bake them
in a quick oven from five to ten minutes.

COMMON JUMBLES.— Sift a pound of flour into a large
pan. Cut up a pound of butter into a pound of powdered
white sugar, and stir them to a cream. Beat six eggs till
very light, and then 'pour them all at once into the pan of
flour ; next add the butter and sugar, with a large table-spoon-
ful of mixed mace and cinnamon, two grated nutmegs,
and the juice of two lemons, or a wine glass of rose
water. When all the ingredients are in, stir the mixture very
hard with a broad knife.- Having floured your hands and
spread some flour on the paste-board, make the dough into
long rolls, (all of equal size,) and form them into rings by

joining the two ends very nicely. Lay them on buttered

30*

354 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

tins, and bate them in a quick oven from five to ten minutes.

Grate sugar over them when cool.

APEEtt. — Rub a pound of fresh butter into two pounds
of sifted flour, and mix in a pound of powdered white sugar,
a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon,

•

and four large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Add a
wine glass of rose water, and mix the whole with sufficient
cold wrater to make it a stiff dough. " Roll it out into a large
sheet about a third of an inch in thickness, and cut it into
round cakes with a tin cutter or with the edge of a tumbler.
Lay them in buttered pans, and bake them in a quick oven,
(rather hotter at the bottom than at the top,) till they are of a

very pale brown.

>

WHITE CUP CAKE.— Measure one large coffee cup of
cream or rich milk, (which, for this cake, is best, when sour,)
one cup of fresh butter; two cups of powdered white sugar;
and four cups of sifted flour. Stir the butter and sugar to-
gether till quite light ; then by degrees add the cream, alter-
nately with half the flour. Beat five eggs as light as pos-
sible, and stir them into the mixture, alternately with the
remainder of the flour. Add a grated nutmeg and a large
tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, with rose water to
your taste. Lastly, stir in a very small tea-spoonful
of sal-aratus or pearl-ash, melted in a little tepid water.
Having stirred the whole very hard, put it into little tins ;
set them in a moderate oven, and bake them about twenty
minutes.

KISSES. — Powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar. Beat
to a strong froth the whites of eight eggs, and when it is stiff

CAKES, ETC. 355

enough to stand alone, beat info it the powdered sugar, (a
tea-spoonful at a time,) adding the juice of two lemons, or of
two large oranges. Having beaten the -whole very hard,
drop it in oval or egg-shaped heaps upon sheets of white
paper, smoothing them with a broad knife dipped in cold
water. Place them in a moderate oven, (if it is too cool
they will not rise, but will flatten and run into each other,)
and bake them till coloured of a very pale brown. Then take
them off the papers very carefully, place two bottoms (or
flat sides) together so as to unite them in an oval ball, and
lay them on their sides to cool. You may scoop out a little
from the under-surface of each, and put in some jelly. Then
stick the flat sides together.

MARMALADE CAKE.— Make a batter as for queen-cake,
and' bake it in small tin rings oh a griddle. Beat white of
egg1, and powdered loaf-sugar according to the preceding re-
ceipt, flavouring it with lemon. When the batter is baked into
cakes, and they are quite cool, spread over each a thick layer
of marmalade, and then hfeap on with a spoon the icing or
white of egg and sugar. Pile it high, and set the cakes in a
moderate oven till the icing is coloured of a very pale brown.

Instead of small ones you may bake the whole in one large
cake.

SECRETS. — Take glazed paper of different colours, and
cut it into* squares of equal size, fringing two sides of each.
Have ready, burnt almonds, chocolate nuts, and bonbons or
sugar-plums of various sorts; and put one in each paper
with a folded slip containing two lines of verse; or what will
be much moie amusing, a conundrum with the aoswer. Twist

350 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

•

the coloured paper so as entirely to conceal their contents,
leaving the fringe at each end. This is the most easy, but
there are various ways of cutting and ornamenting these en-
velopes.

SCOTCH CAKE.— Rub three quarters of a pound of
butter into a pound of sifted flour ; mix in a pound of pow-
dered sugar, and a large table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon.
Mix it into a dough with three well beaten eggs. Roll it out
into a sheet ; cut it into round cakes, and bake them in a quick
*ven ; they will require but a few minutes.

SCOTCH QUEEN CAKE.— Melt a pound of butter by
putting it into a skillet on hot coals. Then set it away to
cool. Sift two quarts of oatmeal into a deep pan, and mix
with it a pound of powdered sugar and a table-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon and mace. Make a hole in the middle,
put in the melted butter, and mix it with a knife till you have
formed of the whole a lump of dough. If it is too stiff,
moisten it with a little rose water. Knead it well, and roll
it out into a large oval sheet, an inch thick. Cut it down the
middle, and then across, so as to divide it into four cakes.
Prick them with a fork, and crimp or scollop the edges neatly.
Lay them in shallow pans ; set them in a quick oven and
bake them of a light brown. This cake will keep a week
or two.

You may mix in with the dough half a pound <*f currants,
picked, washed, and dried.

HONEY CAKES.— Take a quart of strained honey, half
a pound of fresh butter, and a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash
dissolved in a little sour milk. Add by degrees as much

-'•

CAKES, ETC. 357

sifted fiour as will make a stiff paste. Work the whole well
together. Roll it out about half an inch thick. Cut it into

O

cakes with the edge of a tumbler or with a tin cake-cutter.
Lay them on buttered tins and bake them with rather a brisk
fire, but 'see that they do not burn.

WAFER CAKES.

together half a pound of powdered sugar, and a quarter
of a pound of butter; and add to them six beaten eggs. Then
beat the whole very light; stirring into it as much sifted
flour as will make a stiff* batter; a powdered nutmeg, and a
tea-spoonful of cinnamon ; and the juice of a lenipn, or a
table-spoonful of rose water. The batter must be ve*y smooth
when it is done, and without a single lump. Heat your wafer
iron on both sides by turning it in the fire ; but do not allow
it to get too. hot. Grease the inside with butter tied in a rag,
(this must be repeated previous to the baking of every cake,)
and put in the batter, allowing to each wafer two large t^bie-
epoonfuls, taking care not to stir up the batter. Close the
iron, and when one side is baked, turn it on the other; open
it occasionally to see if the wafer is doing well. They should
be coloured of a light brown. Take them out carefully with
a knife. Strew them with powdered sugar, and roll them up
while warm, round a smooth stick, withdrawing it when they
grow cold. They are best the day after they are baked.

If you are preparing for company, fill up the hollow of the
wafers with whipt cream, and stop up the two ends with pre~

•

served. strawberries, or with any other small sweetmeat.

WONDERS, OR CRULLERS.— Rub half a pound of
butter into two pounds of sifted flour, mixing in three quarters

358 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

of a pound of powdered sugar. Add a tea-spoonful of pow-
dered cinnamon, and a grated nutmeg, with a large table-
spoonful of rose water. Beat six eggs very light, and stir
them into the mixture. Mix it with a knife into a soft paste.
Then put it on the paste-board, and roll it out into a eheet an
inch thick. If you find it too soft, knead in a little more flour,
and roll it out over again. Cut it into long slips with a
jagging iron, or with a sharp knife, and twist them into
various fantastic shapes. Have ready on hot coals, a skillet
of boiling lard ; put in the crullers and fry them of a light
brown, turning therri occasionally by means of a knife and
fork. Take them out one by one on a perforated skimmer,

»

that the lard may drain off through the holes. Spread them
out on a large dish, and when cold grate white sugar over
them.
They will keep a week or more.

DOUGH NUTS.— Take two deep dishes, and sift three
quarters of a pound of flour into each. Make a hole in the
centre of one of them, and pour in a wine glass of the best
brewer's yeast; mix the flour gradually into it, wetting it
with lukewarm milk ; cover it, and set it by the fire to rise
for about two hours. This is setting a sponge. In the mean
time, cut up five ounces of butter into the other dish of flour,
and rub it fine with your hands ; add half a pound of powdered
sugar, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a grated nutmeg,
a table-spoonful of i-ose water, and a half pint of milk. Beat
three eggs very light, and stir them hard into the mixture.
Then when the sponge is perfectly light, add it to the other
ingredients, mixing them all thoroughly with a knife. Cover
it, and set it again by the fire for another hour. When it is
quite light, flour your paste-board, turn out the lump of dough,

CAKES, ETC.

•

and cut it into thick diamond shaped cakes with a jagging iron.
If you find the dough so soft as to be unmanageable, mix in a
little more flour ; but not else. Have ready a skillet of boil-
ing lard ; put the dough-nuts into it, aud fry them Yi-v.-n -
and when cool grate loaf-sugar over them. They should be
eaten quite fresh, as next day they will be tough and heavy ;
therefore it is best to make no more than you want for imme-
diate use. The New York Oley Koeks are dough-nuts with
currants and raisins in them.

WAFFLES.— Put two pints of rich milk into separate
pans. Cut up and melt in one of them a quarter of a pound
of butter, warming it slightly ; then, when it is melted, stir
it about, and set it away to cool. Beat eight eggs till very
light, and mix them gradually into the other pan of milk,
alternately with half a pound of flour. Then mix in by de-
grees the milk that has the butter in it. Lastly, stir in a
large table-spoonful of strong fresh yeast. Cover the pan,
and set it near the fire to rise. When the batter is quite light,
heat your waffle-ironf by putting it among the coals of a clear
bright fire ; grease the inside with butter tied in a rag, and
then put in some batter. Shut the iron closely, and when the
waffle is done on one side, turn the iron on the other. Take
the cake out by slipping a knf?e~underneath ; and then heat
and grease the iron for another waffle. Send them to table
quite hot, four or six on a plate ; having buttered them and
strewed over each a mixture of powdered cinnamon, and
white sugar. Or you may send the sugar and cinnamon in a
little glass bowl.

In buying waffle-irons, do not choose those broad shallow
ones that are to hold four at a time ; as the wafflles baked in
them are too small, too thin, and are never <jf a good shape.

360 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

•

The common sort that bake but two at once are much the
best. They sho^d be of a deep well-cut pattern.

7--^;r * ORK COOKIES.— Take a half-pint or a tumbler
full of cold water, and mix it with half a pound of powdered
white sugar. Sift three pounds of flour into a large pan, and
cut up in it a pound of butter ; rub the butter very fine into
the flour. Add a grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of pow-
dered cinnamon, with a wine glass of rose water. Work in

•
the sugar, and make the whole into a -stiff dough, adding, if

necessary, a little cold water. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of
soda in just enough tepid water to cover it; and mix
it in at the last. Take the lump of dough out of the pan, and
knead it on the paste-board till it becomes quite light. Then
roll it out rather more than half an inch thick, and cut it into
square cakes with a jagging iron or with a sharp knife.
Stamp the surface of each with a cake print. Lay them in
buttered pans, and bake them of a light brown in a brisk oven.

They are similar to what are called New Year's cakes, and
will keep two or three weeks.

In mixing the dough, you may add three table-spoonfuls of
carraway seeds.

SUGAR BISCUIT.— Wet a pound of sugar with two large
tea-cups full of milk ; and rub a pound of butter into two
pounds of flour ; adding a table-spoonful of cinnamon, -or a

•

handful of carraway seeds. Mix in the sugar, add a tea-
spoonful of soda dissolved, and make the whole into a
stiff dough. Knead it, and then roll it out into a sheet about
half an inch thick. Beat it on both sides with the rolling-pin,
and then cut it out with the edge of a tumbler into round cakes.
Prick them with a fork, lay them in buttered pans, and bake

CAKES, ETC. 3f>l

3f»l

tliem light brown in a quick oven. You may colour them
yellow by mixing1 in with the other ingredients a little of the
infusion of saffron. These are the hard suo-ar-biscuits.

RUSKS.-— Sift three pounds of flour into a large pan, and
rub into it half a pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar.
Beat two -eggs very light, and stir them into a pint and a half
of milk, adding two table-spoonfuls of rose water, and three
table-spoonfuls of the best and strongest yeast. .Make a hole
in the middle of the flour, pour in the liquid, and gradually
mix the flour into it till you. have a thick batter. Cover it,
and set it by the fire to rise. When it is quite light, put it
on your paste-board and knead it well. Then divide it into
small round cakes and knead each separately. Lay them very
near each other in shallow iron pans that have been sprinkled
with flour. Prick the top of each rusk with a fork, and set
them by the fire to rise again for half an hour or more. 'When
they are perfectly light, bake them in a moderate oven. They
are best when fresh. Soft sugar-biscuits are made the same way.

You can convert them into what are called Hard Rusks,
or Tops and Bottoms, by splitting them in half, and putting
them again into the oven to harden and crisp.

MILK BISCUIT.— Cut up three quarters of a pound of
butter in a quart of milk, and set it near the fire to warm, till
the butter becomes soft ; then with a knife, mix it thoroughly
with the milk, and set it away to cool. Afterwards stir in
two wine glasses of strong fresh yeast, and add by degrees aa
much sifted flour as will make a dough just stiff enough to
roll out. As soon as it is mixed, roll it into a thick sheet,
and cut it out into round cakes with the edge of a tumbler or

a wine glass. Sprinkle a large iron pan with flour ; lay the

31

302

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

biscuits in it, cover it and set it to rise near the fire. When
die biscuits are. quite light, knead each one separately ; prick
them with a fork, and set them again in a warm place for
about half an hour. When they are light again, bake them in
a moderate oven. They should be eaten fresh, and pulled
open with the fingers, as splitting them with a knife will
make them heavy.

WHITE GINGERBREAD.
SIFT two pounds of flour into a <leep pan, and rub into it

•

three quarters of a pound of butter ; then mix in a pound of
common white sugar powdered ; and three table-spoonfuls of
the best white ginger. Having beaten four eggs very light,
mix them gradually with the other ingredients in the pan, and
add a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash melted in a wine glass
of sour milk. Stir the whole as hard as possible. Flour
your paste-board ; lay the lump of dough upon it, and roll it
out into a sheet an inch thick ; adding more flour if necessary.
Butter a large shallow square pan. Lay the dough into it,
and bake it in a moderate oven. When cold, cut it into
squares. Or you may cut it out into separate cakes with a jag-
ging iron, previous to baking. You must be careful not to lay
them too close together in the pan, lest they run into each other.

COMMON GINGERBREAD.— Cut up a pound of butter
in a quart of West India molasses, which must be per-
fectly sweet; sugar-house molasses will make it hard and
heavy. Warm it slightly, just enough to melt the butter.
Crush with the rolling-pin, on the paste-board, half a pound
cf brown sugar, and add it by degrees to the molasses and
butter; then stir in three table-spoonfuls of ginger, a large

CAKES, ETC. «'J63

tea-spoonful of powdered cloves, and a tea-spoonful of pow-
dered cinnamon. Add gradually sufficient flour to make a
dough stiff enough to roll out easily ; and lastly, a small tea-
spoonful of pearl-ash melted in a little sour milk. Mix and
stir the dough very hard with a spaddle, or a wooden spoon ;
but do not knead it. Then divide it with a knife into equal
portions; and, having floured your hands, roll it. out on the
paste-board into long even strips. Place them in shallow
tin pans, that have been buttered ; either laying tne strips
side by side in straight round sticks, ^uniting them at both
ends,) or coil them into rings one within another, as you see
them at the cake shops. Bake them in a brisk oven, taking
care that they do not burn ; gingerbread scorching sooner than
any other cake.

To save time and trouble, you may roll out the dough into
a sheet near an inch thick, and cut it into round flat cakes
with a tin cutter, or with the edge of a tumbler.

Ground ginger loses much of its strength by keeping.
Therefore it will be frequently found necessary to put in more
than the quantity given in the receipt.

GINGERBREAD NUTS.— Rub half a pound of butter
into a pound and a half of sifted flour ; and mix in half a
pound of brown sugar, crushed fine with the rolling-pin. Add
three table-spoonfuls of ginger, a tea-spoonful of powdered
cloves, "and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir in a
pint of molasses, and the grated peel of a large lemon, but
not the juice, as you must add at the last a very small tea-
spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in tepid water, and pearl-
ash entirely destroys the taste of lemon-juice and of every

•
other acid. Stir the whole mixture very hard with a spaddle

or with a wooden spoon, and make it into a lump of dough

364 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

just stiff enough to roll out into a sheet about half an inch
thick. Cut it out into small cakes about the size of a quarter
dollar ; or make it up, with your hands well floured, into little
round balls, flattening them on the top. Lay them in buttered
pans, and bake them in a moderate oven. They will keep
several weeks. Use West India molasses.

FRANKLIN CAKE. — Mix together a pint of molasses,
and half a pint of milk, and cut up in it half a pound of
butter. Warm them just enough to melt the buttes, and
then stir in six ounces of brown sugar,1 adding three table-
spoonfuls of ginger, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon,
a tea-spoonful of powdered cloves, and a grated nutmeg.
Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the
mixture, in turn with a pound and two ounces of flour. Add.
at the last, the grated peel and juice of two large lemons
or oranges ; the peel grated very fine. This gingerbread
requires no pearl-ash. Stir the mixture very hard ; put it

•

into little queen-cake tins, well buttered ; and bake it in a
moderate oven. It is best the second day, and will keep soft
a week. Use West India molasses.

GINGER PLUM CAKE.— Stone a .pound and a half of
raisins, and cut them in two. Wash and dry half a pound of
currants. Sift into a pan two pounds of flour. Put into
another pan a pound of brown sugar, (rolled fine,) and cut up
in it a pound of fresh butter. Stir the butter and sugar to a
cream, and add to it two table-spoonfuls of the best ginger ,
one table-spoonful of pOAvdered cinnamon ; and one of pow-
dered cloves. Thtn beat six eggs very light, and add them

t

gradually to the butter and sugar, in turn with the flour and a
quart of molasses. Lastly, stir in a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash

?,r>5

C A TV E S; E T C.

dissolved in lukewarm water and add by degrees the fruit,
which must be well dredged with flour. Stir all very hard ;
put the mixture into a buttered pan, and bake it in a mode-
rate oven. Use West India molasses.

MOLASSES CANDY.— Mix a pound of the best brown
sugar with two quarts of West India molasses, (which must
be perfectly sweet,) and boil it in a preserving kettle over a
moderate fire for three hours, skimming it well, and stirring
it frequently after the scum has ceased to rise ; taking care
that it does not burn. Have ready the grated rind and the
juice of three lemons, and stir them into the molasses after
it has boiled about two hours and a half; or you may sub-
stitute the juice and rind of three large oranges. The flavour
of the lemon will all be boiled out if it is put in too soon.
The mixture should boil at least three hours, that it may be
crisp and brittle when cold. If it is taken off the fire too soon,
or before it has boiled sufficiently, it will not congeal, but will
be tough and ropy, and must be boiled over again. . It will
cease boiling of itself when it is thoroughly done. Then take
it off the fire ; have ready a square tin pan ; put the mixture
into it, and set it away to cool. The pan should be buttered.

You may make molasses candy with almonds blanched and
slit into pieces ;• stir them in by degrees after the mixture has
boiled two hours and a half. Or you may blanch a quart of
ground-nuts and put them in instead of the almonds.

NOUGAT. — Blanch a pound of shelled sweet almonds ;
and with an almond-cutter, or a sharp penknife, split each
almond into two slips. Spread them over a lage dish, and
place them in a gentle oven. Powder two pounds of the best

loaf-sugar, and put it into a preserving pan without a drop of

31*

366 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

water. Set it on a chafing-dish over a slow fire, or on a hot
stove, and stir it with a wooden spoon till the heat has entirely
dissolved it. Then take the almonds out of the oven, and mix
with them the juice of two or three lemons. Put them into
the sugar a few at a time, and let them simmer till it becomes
a thick stiff paste, stirring it hard all the while. Have ready
a mould, or a square tin pan, greased all over the inside with
sweet oil ; put the mixture into it; smooth it evenly, and set
it in a cold place to harden. When almost hard cut it into
long slips.

LEMON DROPS. — Squeeze some lemon-juice into a pan.
Pound in a mortar some of the best loaf-sugar, and then sift it
through a very fine sieve. Mix it with the lemon-juice, mak-
ing it so thick that you can scarcely stir it. Put it into a porce-
lain saucepan, set it on hot coals, and stir it with a wooden
spoon five minutes or more. Then take off the pan, and with
the point of a. knife drop the liquid on writing paper. When
cold, the drops will easily come off.

Peppermint drops may be made as above, substituting for
tiie lemon-juice essence of peppermint.

Orange drops may be made in the same manner.

367

WARM CAKES FOR BREAKFAST

AND TEA.

BUCKWHEAT CAKES.

TAKE a quart of buckwheat meal, mix with it a tea-spoonful
of salt, and add a handful of Indian meal. Pour two table-
spoonfuls of the best brewer's yeast into the centre of the meal.
Then mix it with lukewarm water till it becomes a batter.
Cover it, put it in a warm place and set it to rise ; it will take
about three hours. When it is quite light, and covered with
bubbles, it is fit to bake. Put your griddle over the fire, and
let it g&t quite hot before you begin. Grease it well with a
piece of butter tied in a rag. Then dip out a large ladle full
of the batter and bake it on the griddle ; turning it with a
broad wooden paddle. Let the cakes be of large size, and
even- at the edges. Ragged edges to batter cakes look very
Dadly. Butter them as you take them off 'the griddle. Put
several on a plate, and cut them across in six pieces.

Grease the griddle anew, between baking each cake.

If your batter has been mixed over night and is found to be
sour in the morning, melt in warm water a piece of pearl-ash
the size of a grain of corn, or a little larger ; stir it into the bat-
ter ; let it set half an hour, and then bake it. The pearl-ash will
remove the sour taste, and increase the lightness of the cakes.

FLANNEL CAKES.— Put a table-spoonful of butter into
a quart of milk, and warm them together till the butter has
melted ; then stir it well, and set it away too cool. Beat five
eggs as light as possible, and stir them into the milk in turn

368 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

with three pints of sifted flour ; add a small tea-spoonful of
salt, and a large table-spoonful and a half of the best fresh
yeast. Set the pan of batter near the fire to rise ; and if the
yeast is good, it will be light in three hours. Then bake it on
a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Send them to
table hot, and cut across into four pieces. This batter maybe
baked in waffle-irons. If so, send to table with the cakes
powdered white sugar and cinnamon.

INDIAN BATTER CAKES.— Mix together a quart of
sifted Indian meal, (the yellow meal is best for all purposes,)
antl a handful of wheat flour. Warm a quart of milk, and stir
into it a small tea-spoonful of salt, and two large table-spoon-
fuls of the best fresh yeast. Beat three eggs very light, and
stir them gradually into the milk in turn with the meal. Cover
it, and set it to rise for three or four hours. When quite light,
bake it on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Butter

o

them, cut them across, and send them to table hot, with mo-
lasses in a sauce-boat.

If the batter should chance to become sour before it is
baked, stir in about a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a
little lukewarm water ; and let it set half an hour longer
before it is baked.

INDIAN MUSH CAKES.— Pour into a pan three pints
of cold water, and stir gradually into it a quart of sifted Indian
meal which has been mixed with half a pint of wheat flour,
and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Give it a hard stirring at
the last. Have ready a hot griddle, and bake the batter
irnrriediately, in cakes about the size of a saucer. Send them
to table piled evenly, but not cut. Eat them with butter ot
molasses.

WARM CAKES, ETC. 3(j9

This is the most- economical and expeditious way of makina
soft Indian cakes ; but it cannot be recommended as the best.
It will be some improvement to mix the meal with milk rather
than water.

JOHNNY CAKE.— Sift a quart of Indian meal into a
pan ; m-ake a hole in the middle, and pour in a pint of warm
water. Mix the meal and water gradually into a batter,
inkling a small tea-spoonful of salt. Beat it very hard, and
for a long time, till it becomes quite light. Then spread it
thick and even on a stout piece of smooth board. Place it
upright on the hearth before a clear fire, with a flat iron 01
something of the's.ort to support the board behind, and bake it
well. Cut it into squares, and split and butter them hot.

INDIAN FLAPPERS.— Have ready a. pint of sifted Indian
meal, mixed with a handful of wheat flour, and a small tea-
spoonful of salt. Beat four eggs very light, and stir them by
degrees into a quart of milk, in turn with the meal. They
can be made in a very short time, aud should be baked as
soon as mixed, on a hot griddle ; allow a large 'ladle full of
batter to each cake, and make them all of the same size.
Send them to table hot, buttered and cut in half.

INDIAN MUFFINS.— Sift and mix together a pint and a
half of yellow Indian meal, and a handful of wheat flour.
Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a quart of milk
Beat four eggs very light, and stir into them alternately (a
little at a time of each) the milk when it is quite cold,
and the meal ; adding a small tea-spoonful of salt. The
whole must be beaten lon and hard. Then butter some

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

muffin rings"; set them on a hot griddle, and pour some of the
butter into each.

Send the muffins to table hot, and split them by pulling
them open with your fingers, as a knife will make them
heavy. Eat them with butter, molasses or hone}%

WATER MUFFINS.— Put four table-spoonfuls of fresh
strong yeast into a pint of lukewarm \yater. Add a little salt ;
about a small tea-spoonful; then stir in gradually as much
sifted flour as will make a thick batter. Cover the pan, and
set it in a* warm place to rise. When it is quite light, and
your griddle is hot, grease and set your muffin rings on.it;
having first buttered them round the inside. ;Dip out a ladle
full of the batter for each ring, and bake them over a quick
fire. Send them to-table hot, and split them by pulling them
open with your hands.

COMMON MUFFINS.— Having melted three table-spoon-
fuls of fresh butter in three pints of warm milk, set it away
to cool. Then beat three eggs as light as possible, and stir
them gradually into the milk when it is quite cold; adding a
tea-spoonful of salt. Stir in by degrees enough of sifted flour
to make a batter as thick as you can conveniently beat it ; and
lastly, add two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast from
the brewery. Cover the batter and set it in a warm place to
rise. It should be light in about three hours. Having heated
your griddle, grease it with some butter tied in a rag; grease
your muffin rings round the inside, and set them on the griddle.
Take some batter out of the pan with a ladle or a laige spoon,
pour it lightly into the rings, and bake the muffins of a light
brown. When done, break or split them open with your
fingers ; butter them and send them to table hot.

WARM CAKES, ETC. 371

SODA BISCtJITS.— Melt half a pound of butter in a pint
of warm milk, adding a tea-spoonful of soda; and stir m by
degrees half a pound of sugar. Then sift into a pan two
pounds of flour ; make a hole in the middle ; pour in the milk,
&c., and mix it with the flour into a dough. Put it on your
paste-board, and knead it long and hard till it becomes very
light. Roll it out into a sheet half an inch thick. Cut it into
little round cakes with the top of a wine glass, or with a tin
cutter of that size ; prick the tops-; lay them on tins sprinkled
with flour, or in shallow iron pans ; and bake them of a light
brown in a quick oven ; they will be done in a few minutes.
These biscuits keep very well.

A SALLY LUNN.— This cake is called after the invent-
ress. Sift into a pan a pound and a half of flour. Make a
hole in the middle, and put in two ounces of butter warmed in
a pint of milk, a salt-spoonful of salt, three well-beaten eggs,
and two table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeas-t. Mix the
flour well into the other ingredients, and put the whole into a
square tin pan that has been greased with butter. Cover it,
set it in a warm place, and when it is quite light, bake it in a
moderate oven. Send it to table hot, and eat it with butter.

Or, you may bake it on a griddle, in small muffin rings,
pulling the cakes open and buttering them when brought to
table.

SHORT CAKES.— -Rub three quarters of a pound of fresh
butter into a pound and a half of sifted flour; and make it into
a dough with a little cold water. Roll it out into a sheet half
an inch thick, an.d cut it into round cakes with the" edge of a
tumblei. . Prick them with a fork ; lay them in a shallow iron

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

•

pan sprinkled with flour, and bake them in a moderate oven
till they are brown. Send them to table hot; split and butter
them.

TEA BISCUIT.— Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter
in a quart of warm milk, and add a salt-spoonful of salt, Jjift
two pounds of flour into a pan, make a hole in the centre, and
put in three table-spoonfuls of the best brewer's yeast. Add
the milk and butter and mix it into a stiff paste. Cover it
and set it by the fire to rise. "When quite light, knead it well,
roll it out an inch thick, and cut it into round cakes with the
edge of a tumbler. Prick the top of each with a fork ; lay
them in buttered pans and bake them light brown. Send them
to table warm, and split and butter them.

RICE CAKES. — Pick and wash half a pint of rice, and
boil it very soft. Then drain it, and let it get cold. Sift a
pint and a half of flour over the pan of rice, and mix in a
quarter of a pound of butter that has been warmed by the fire,
and a salt-spoonful of salt. Beat five eggs very light, and
stir them gradually into a quart of milk. Beat the whole very
hard, and bake it in muffin rings, or in waffle-irons. Send
them- to table hot, and eat them with butter, honey, or
molasses.

You may make these cakes of rice flour instead of mixing
together whole rice and wheat flour.

CREAM CAKES. — Having beaten three eggs very light,
stir them into a quart of cream alternately with a quart of
sifted flour ; and add one wine glass of strong yeast, and a
salt-spoon of salt. Cover the batter, and set it near the fire
to rise. When it is quite light, stir in a large table-spoonful

WARM CAKES, ETC. 373

of butler that has been warmed by the fire. Bake the cakes
in muffin rings, and send them to table hot, split with your
finders, and buttered.

o '

FRENCH ROLLS. — Sift a pound of flour into a pan, and
rub into it two ounces of butter; mix in the whites only of
three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and a table-spoonfut.of
strong yeast ; add sufficient milk to make a stiff dough, and a
salt-spoonful of salt. Cover it and set it before the fire to
rise. It should be light in an hour. Then put it "on a paste-
board, divide it into rolls, or round cakes; lay them in a
floured square pan, and bake them about ten minutes in a
quick oven.

COMMON ROLLS.— Sift two pounds of flour into a pan,
and mix with it a tea-spoonful of salt. Warm together a jill
of water and a jill of milk. Make a hole in the middle of the
pan of flour ; mix with the milk and water a jill .of the best
yeast, and pour it into the hole. Mix into the liquid enough
of the surrounding flour to make a thin batter, which yon must
stir till quite smooth and free from lumps. Then strew a
handful of flour over the top, and set it in a warm place to rise
for two hours or more. When it is quite light, and has cracked
on the top, make it into a dough with some more milk and
\vater. Knead it well for ten minutes. Cover it, and set it
again to rise for twenty minutes. Then make the dough into
rolls or round balls. Bake them in -a square pan, and send
them to table hot, cut in three, buttered and put together

again.

374

BREAD.

T\»KE one peck or two gallons of fine wheat flour, and sift
it into a kneading trough, or into a small clean tub, or a
large broad earthen pan ; and make a deep hole in the middle
of the heap of flour, to begin the process by what is called
setting a sponge. Have ready half a pint of warm water,
which in summer should be only lukewarm, but even in
winter it must not be hot or boiling, and stir it well into half
a pint of strong fresh yeast ; (if the yeast is home-made you
must use from three quarters to a whole pint;) then pour
it into the hole in the middle of the flour. With a spoon
work in the flour round the edges of the liquid, so as to bring
in by degrees sufficient flour to form a thin batter, which mus*
be well stirred about, for a minute or two. Then take a hand-
ful of flour, and scatter it thinly over the top of this batter, so
as to cover it entirely. Lay a warmed cloth over the whole,
and set it to rise in a warm place; in winter put it nearer the
fire than in summer. When the batter has risen so as to
make cracks in the flour on the top, scatter over it three or
four table-spoonfuls (not more) of fine salt, and begin to form
the whole mass into a dough ; commencing round the hole
containing the batter, and pouring as much soft water as is
necessary to make the flour mix with the batter ; the water
must never be more than lukewarm. When the whole is well
mixed, and the original batter which is to give fermentation
to the dough is completely incorporated with it, knead it hard,
turning it over, pressing it, folding it, and working it thoroughly
with your clenched hands for twenty minutes or half an hour;
or till it becomes perfectly light and stiff. The goodness of

BREAD, ETC. 375

bread depends much on the kneading, which to do well re-
quires strength and practice. When it has heen sufficiently
worked, form- the dough into a lump in the middle of the
trough or pan, and scatter a.little dry flour thinly over it : then
cover it, and set it again in a warm place to undergo a fartner
fermentation ; for which, if all has been done rightly, about
twenty minutes or half an hour will, be sufficient.

The oven should be hot by ttie time the dough has remained
twenty minutes in the lump. If it is a brick oven it should
be heated by fao-rrots or small light wood, allowed to remain

J o o

in till burnt down into coals.' When the bread is ready, clear
out the coals, and sweep and wipe the floor of the oven clean.
Introduce nothing wet into the oven, as it may crack the
bricks when they are hot. Try the heat of the bottom by
throwing in some flour ; and if it scorches and burn's black, do
not venture to put in the bread till the oven has had time to
become cooler.

Put the dough on the paste-board, (which must be sprinkled
with flour,) and divide it into loaves, forming them of a good
shape. Place them in the oven, and close up the door, which
you may open once or twice to see how the bread is going on.
The loaves will bake in from two hours and a half to three
hours, or more, according to their size. When the loaves are
done, wrap each in a clean coarse towel, and stand them up
on end to cool slowly. It is a good way to have the cloths
previously made damp by sprinkling them plentifully with
.water, and letting them lie awhile rolled up tightly. This
will make the crust of the bread less dry and hard. Bread
should be kept always wrapped in a cloth, and covered from
the air in a box or basket with a close lid. Unless you have
other thino-s to bake at the same time, it is not worth while to

.=5

heat a brick oven for a small quantity of bread. Two or three

376 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

loaves can be baked very well in a stove, (putting diem into
square iron pans,) or in a Dutch oven.*

If the bread has been mixed over night (which should never
be done in warm weather) and is found, on tasting it, to be
sour in the morning, melt a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in a little
milk-warm water, and sprinkle it over the dough ; let it set half
an hour, and then knead it. This will remove the acidity, and
rather improve the bread in lightness. If dough is allowed
to freeze it is totally spoiled. All bread that is sour, heavy,
or ill-baked is not only unpalatable, but extremely unwhole-
some, and should never be eaten. These accidents so fre-
quently happen when bread is made at home by careless,
unpractised or incompetent persons, that families who live in
cities or towns will generally risk less and save more, by
obtaining their bread from a professional baker.

If you like a little Indian in your wheat bread, prepare rather
a larger quantity of warm water for setting the sponge ; stirring
into the water, while it is warming, enough of sifted Indian
meal to make it like thin gruel. • Warm water that has- had
Dump kin boiled in it is very good for bread.

Strong fresh yeast from the brewery should always be used
in preference to any other. If the yeast is home-made, or not
very strong and fresh, double or treble the quantity mentioned
in the receipt will be necessary to raise the bread. On the
other hand, if too much yeast is put in, the bread will be
disagreeably bitter. f

* If you bake bread in a Dutch oven, take off the lid when the
loaf is done, and let it remain in the oven uncovered for a quarter of
an hour.

• t If you are obliged from its want of strength to put in a large
quantity of yeast, mix with it two or three handfuls of bran ; add the
warm water to it, and then strain it through a sieve or cloth ; or you
may correct the bitterness by putting in a few bits of charcoal and
then straining it.

BREAD, ETC. 377

You may take off a portion of the dough that has been pre-
pared for bread, make it up into little round cakes or rolls, and
bake them for breakfast or tea.

BRAN BREAD. — Sift into a pan three quarts of unbolted
wheat meal. Stir a jill of strong yeast, and a jill of molasses
into a quart of soft water, (which must be warm but not hot,)
and add a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or sal-aratus. Make
a hole in the heap "of flour, pour in the liquid, and proceed in
the usual manner of making bread. This quantity may be
made into two loaves. Bran bread is considered. very whole-
some ; and is recommended to persons afflicted with ays-

•

pepsia.

RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.— Sift two quarts of rye,
and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them well together.
Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling hot upon the meal ;
add two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard.
Let it stand till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then
stir in half a pint of good fresh yeast ; if from the brewery
and quite fresh, a smaller quantity will suffice. Knead the
mixture into a stiff dough, and set it to rise in a pan. Cover it
with a thick cloth that has been previously warmed, and set
it near the fire. When it is quite light, and has cracked
all over the top, make it into two loaves, put them into a
moderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half.

COMMON YEAST.— Put a large handful of hops into two
quarts of boiling water, which must then be set on the fire
again, and boiled twenty minutes with the hops. Have ready
in a pan three pints of sifted flour ; strain the liquid, and pom
half of it on the flour. Let the other half stand till it becomes

32*

378 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

cool, and then mix it gradually into the pan with the flour, &c.
Then stir into it half a pint of good strong yeast, fresh from
the brewery if possible ; if not, use some that was left of the
last making. You may increase the strength by stirring into
your yeast before you bottle it, four or five large tea-spoonfuls
of brown sugar, or as many table-spoonfuls of molasses.

Put it into clean bottles, and cork them loosely till the fer-
mentation is over. Next morning put in the corks tightly,
and set the bottles in a cold place. When* you are going to
bottle the yeast it will be an improvement to place two or

three raisins at the bottom of each bottle. It is best to make

•
yeast very frequently ; as, with every precaution, it will

scarcely keep good a week, even in cold weather. If you are
apprehensive of its becoming sour, put into each bottle a lump
of pearl-ash the size of a hazle-nut.

BRAN YEAST. — Mix a pint of wheat bran, and a hand-
ful of hops with a quart of water, and boil them together
about twenty minutes. Then strain it through a sieve into a
pan ; when the liquid becomes only milk-warm, stir into it
four table-spoonfuls of brewer's yeast, and two of brown
sugar, or four of molasses. Put it into a wooden bowl, cover
it, and set it near the fire for four or five hours. Then bottle
it, and cork it tightly next day.

PUMPKIN YEAST.— Pare a fine ripe 'pumpkin, and cut
it into pieces. Put them into a kettle with a large handful of
hops, and as much water as will cover them. Boil them till
the pumpkin is soft enough to pass through a cullender.
Having done this, put the pulp into a stone jar, adding half a
pint of good strong yeast to set it into a fermentation. The
yeast must be well stirred into the pumpkin. Leave the jar

BUTTER, ETC.

x

uncovered till next day ; then secure it tightly with a cork.
If pumpkin yeast is well made, and of a proper consistence,
neither too thick nor too thin, it will keep longer than any
other.

BAKER'S YEAST.— To a gallon of soft water put two
quarts of wheat bran, one quart of ground malt, (which may

•

be obtained from a brewery,) and two handfuls of hops. Boil
them together for half an hour. Then strain it through a
sieve, and let it stand till it is cold; after which put to it two
large tea-cups of molasses, and half a pint of strong yeast.
Pour it into a stone jug, and let it stand uncorked till next
morning. Then pour off the thin liquid from the top, and
cork the jug tightly. When you are going to use the yeast,
if it has been made two or three days, stir in a little pearl-ash
dissolved in wTarm water, allowing a lump the size of a hickory-
nut to a pint of yeast. This will correct any tendency to sour
ness, and make the yeast more brisk.

TO MAKE BUTTER.

SCALD your milk pans every day after washing them ; and
let them set till the water gets cold. Then wipe them with a
clean cloth. Fill them all with cold water half an hour before
milking time, and do not pour it out till the moment before
you are ready to use the pans. Unless all the utensils are
kept perfectly sweet and nice, the cream and butter will never
be good. Empty milk-pans should stand all day in the sun.

When you have strained the milk into the pans, (which
should be broad and shallow,) place them in the spring-house,
setting them down in the water. After the miik has stood

380 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

twenty-four hours, skim off the cream, and deposits it in a
large deep earthen jar, commonly called* a crock, which must
be kepi closely covered, and stirred up with a stick at least
twice a day, and whenever you add fresh cream to it. This
stirring is to prevent the butter from being injured by the skin
that will gather over the top of the cream.

You should churn at least twice a week, for if the cream is

•
allowed to stand too long, the butter will inevitably have a

bad taste. Add to the cream the strippings of the milk.

Butter of only two or three days gathering is the best. With

_
four or five good cows, you may easily manage to have a

churning every three days. If your dairy is on a large scale,
churn every two day's.

Have your churn very clean, and rinse and cool it with cold
water. A barrel churn is best ; though a small upright one,
worked by a staff or dash, will do very well where there are
but one or two cows.

Strain the cream from the crock into the churn, and put on
the lid. Move the handle slowly in warm weather, as churn-
ing too fast will make the butter soft. \Vhen you find that
the handle moves heavily and with great difficulty, the butter
has come ; that is, it has separated from the thin fluid and
gathered into a lump, and it then is not necessary to churn
any longer. Take it out with a wooden ladle, and put it into
a small tub or pail. Squeeze and press it hard with the ladle,
to get out all that regains of the milk. Add a little salt, and
then squeeze and work it for a long time. If any of the milk
is allowed to remain in, it will speedily turn sour and spoil
the butter. Set it away in a cool place for three hours,. and
then work it over again.* Wash it in cold water ; weigh

* A marble slab or table \vUl be found of great advantage in
worKing and making up butter.

BUTTER, ETC. 381

it ; make it up into separate pounds, smoothing and shaping
it; and clap each pound on your wooden butter print, dipping
the print every time in cold water. Spread a clean ..linen
cloth on* a bench in the spring-house ; place the butter on it,
and let it set till it becomes perfectly hard. Then wrap each
pound in a separate piece of linen that has been dipped in cold
water.

Pour the buttermilk into a clean crock, and place it in the
spring-house, with a saucer to dip it out with. Keep the pot
covered. The buttermilk will be excellent the first day ; hut
afterwards it will hecome too thick and sour. Winter butter*
milk is never very palatable.

Before you put away the churn, wash and scald it well ;
and the day that you use it again, keep it for an hour or more
filled with cold water.

In cold weather, churning is a much more tedious process
than in summer, as the butter will be longer coming. It is
best then to have the churn in a warm room, or near the fire.

If you wish to prepare the butter for keeping a long time,
take it after it has been thoroughly well made, and pack it
down tightly into a large jar. You need not in working it,
add more salt than if the butter was to be eaten immediately.
But preserve it by making a brine of fine salt, dissolved in
water. The brine -must be strong enough to bear up an egg
on the surface without sinking.- Strain the brine into the jar,
so as to be about two -inches above the butter. Keep the jar
closely covered, and set it in a cool place.

When you want any of the butter for use, take it off evenly
from the top; so that the brine may continue to cover it at a
regular depth.

This receipt for making butter is according to the method
in use at the best farm-houses in Pennsylvania, and if exactly

882 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

followed will be found very good. The badness of butter is
generalty owing to carelessness or mismanagement; to keeping
the cream too Ion o- without churnino-; to want of cleanliness

O O '

in the utensils ; to not taking the trouble to work it suffi-
ciently; or to the practice of salting it so profusely as to ren-
der it unpleasant to the taste, and unfit for cakes or pastry.
All these causes of bad butter are inexcusable, and can easily
be avoided. Unless the cows have been allowed to feed where
there are bitter weeds or garlic, the milk cannot naturally have
any disagreeable taste, and therefore the fault of the butter
must be the fault of the maker. Of course, the cream is much
richer where the pasture is fine and luxuriant ; and in winter,
when the cows have only dry food, the butter must be cons'e-
quently whiter and more insipid than in the grazing season.
Still, if properly made, even winter butter cannot taste badly.

Many economical housekeepers always buy for cooking, .
butter of inferior quality. This is a foolish practice ; as when
it is bad, the taste will predominate through all attempts to
disguise it, and render every thing unpalatable with which it
is combined. As the use of butter is designed to improve and
act to spoil the flavour of cookery, it is better to omit it alto-
gether, and to substitute something else, unless you can pro-
cure that which is good. Lard, suet, beef-drippings, and
sweet oil, may be used in the preparation 'of various dishes ;
and to eat with bread or warm cakes, honey, molasses, or
stewed fruit, &c. are far superior to bad "butter.

CHEESE.

IN making good cheese, skim milk is never used. The
milk should either be warm from the cow or heated to that
temperature over the fire. When the rennet is put in, the

CHEESE, ETC. 383

heat of the milk should be from 90° to 9G°. Three quarts of
milk will yield, on an average, about a pound of cheese. In in-
fusing the rennet, allow a quart of lukewarm water, and a table-
spoonful of salt to a piece about half the size of your hand.
The rennet must soak all night in the water before it can be
fit for use. In the morning (after taking as much of it as you
want) put the rennet water into a bottle and cork it tightly.
It will keep the better for adding to it a wine glass of brandy
If too large a proportion of rennet is mixed with the milk, the
cheese will be tough and leathery.

To make a very good cheese, take three buckets of milk
warm from the cow, and strain it immediately into a large tub
or kettle. Stir into it half a tea-cupful of infusion of rennet
or rennet-water ; and having covered it, set it in a warm
place for about half an hour, or till it becomes a firm curd.
Cut the curd into squares with a large knife, or rather with a
wooden slitting-dish, and let it stand about fifteen minutes.
Then break it up fine with your hands, and let it stand a

«

quarter of an hour longer. Then pour off from the top as much
of the whey as you can ; tie up the curd in a linen cloth or bag,
and hang it up to drain oat the remainder of the whey ; setting
a pan under it to catch the droppings. After all the whey is-
drained out, put the curd into the cheese-tray, and cut it again
into slices; chop it coarse; put a cloth about it; place it in
the cheese-hoop or mould, and set it in the screw press for
half an hour, pressing it hard.* Then take it out ; chop the
curd very fine ; add salt to your taste ; and put it again into

* If you are making cheese on a small sTale, and have not a
regular press, put the curd (after you have wrapped it in a cloth)
into a small circular wooden box or tub with numerous holes bored
in the bottom ; and with a lid that fits the inside exactly. Lay heavy
weights on the lid in such a manner as to press evenly all over.

384 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

the cheese-hoop with a cloth about it, and press it again. You
must always wet the cloth all over to prevent its sticking to
the cheese, and tearing the surface. Let it remain in the
press till next morning-, when you must take it out and turn
it ; then wrap it in a clean wet cloth, and replace it in the
press, where it must remain all day. On the following morn-
ing again take out the cheese ; turn it, renew the cloth, and
put it again into the press. Three days pressing will be
sufficient.

When you finally take it out of the press, grease the cheese,
all over with lard, and put it on a clean shelf in a dry dark
room, or in a wire safe. Wipe, grease, and turn it carefully
every day. If you omit this a single day the cheese will
spoil. Keep the shelf perfectly clean, and see that the cheese
does not stick to it. WThen the cheese becomes firm, you may
omit the greasing ; but continue to rub it all over every day
with a clean dry cloth. Continue this for five or six weeks ;
the cheese will then be fit to eat.

The best time for making cheese is when the pasture is in
perfection.

You may enrich the colour of the cheese by a little anatto
or arnotta ; of which procure a small quantity from the drug-
gist, powder it, tie it in a muslin rag, and hold it in the
warm milk, (after it is strained,) pressing out the colouring
matter with your fingers, as laundresses press their indigo or
blue rag in the tub of water. Anatto is perfectly harmless.

After they begin to dry, (or ripen, as it is called,) it is the
custom in some dairy-farms, to place the cheeses in the. hay-
stack, and keep them there among the hay for five or six
weeks. This is said greatly to improve their consistence and
flavour. Cheeses are sometimes ripened by putting them every
day in fresh grass.

CHEESE, ETC. 385

SAGE CHEESE. — Take some of the young top leaves of
the sage plant, and pound them in a mortar till you have extracted .
the juice. Put the juice into a bowl, wipe out the mortar, out
in some spinach leaves, and pound them till you have an equal
quantity of spinach juice. Mix the two juices together, and
stir them into the warm milk immediately after you have put
in the rennet. You may use sage juice alofre ; but the spinach
will greatly improve the colour ; besides correcting the bitter-
ness of the sage.

STILTON CHEESE.— Having strained the morning's
rnilk, and. skimmed the cream from the milk of the preceding
evening, mix the cream and the new milk together while the
latter is quite warm, and stir in the rennet-water. When the
curd has formed, you must not break it up, (as is done with
other cheese,) but take it out all at once with a wooden skim-

•

ming dish, and place it on a sieve to drain gradually. While
it is draining, keep pressing it gently till it becomes firm and
dry. Then lay a clean cloth at tbe bottom of a wooden cheese-
hoop or mould, which should have a few smail holes bored in
the bottom. The cloth must be large enough for the end to
turn over the top again, after tbe curd is put in. Place it in
the press for two hours ; turn it, (putting a clean cloth under
it,) and press it again for six or eight hours. Then turn it
again, rub the cheese all over with salt, and return it to the
press for fourteen hours. Should the edges of the cheese
project, they must be pared off.

W^hen you take it finally out of the press, bind it round
tightly with a cloth, (which must be changed every day when
you turn the cheese,) and set it on a shelf 01 board. Con
tinue the cloths till the cheese is firm enough to support

itself; rubbing or brushing the outside every day when you

33

386 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

turn it. After the cloths are left off, continue to brush the
cheese every day for two or three months ; during which time
it may be improved by keeping it covered all round, under and
over, with grass, which must be renewed every day, jand
gathered when quite dry after the dew is off. Keep the
cheese and the grass between two large plates.

A Stilton cheese is generally made of a small size, seldom
larger in circumference than a dinner plate, and about four or
five inches thick. They are usually put up for keeping, in
cases of sheet lead, fitting them exactly. There is no cheese

•

superior to them in richness and mildness.

Cream cheeses (as they are generally called) may be made
m this manner. They are always eaten quite fresh, while the
inside is still somewhat soft. They are made small, and are
sent to table whole, cut across into triangular slices like a pie
or cake. After they become fit to eat, they will keep good but a
day or two, but they are considered while fresh very delicious.

COTTAGE CHEESE.— This is that preparation of milk
vulgarly called Smear Case. Take a pan of milk that has
just began to turn sour ; cover it, and set it by the fire till it
becomes a curd. Pour off the whey from the top, and tie up
the curd in a pointed linen bag, and hang it up to drain ; set-
ting something under it to catch the droppings. Do not
squeeze it. Let it drain all night, and in the morning put the
curd into a pan, (adding some rich cream,) and work it very
fine with a sp®on, chopping and pressing it till about the con-
sistence of a soft bread pudding. To a soup plate1 of the fine
curd put a tea-spoonful of salt, and a piece of butter about the
size of a walnut; mixing all thoroughly together. Having
prepared the whole in this manner, put it into a stone or china
vessel ; cover it closely, and set it in a cold place till tea time.

CHOCOLATE, ETC. 387

You may make it of milk that is entirely sweet by forming
the curd with rennet.

A WELSH RABBIT. — Toast some slices of bread,

«

(having cut off the crust,) butter them, and keep them hot.
Grate or shave down with a knife some fine mellow cheese :
and, if it is- not very rich, mix with it a.few small bits of
butter. Put it into a cheese-toaster, or into a skillet, and add
to it a tea-spoonful of made mustard ; a little cayenne pepper :
and if you choose, a wine glass of fresh porter or of red wine.
Stir the mixture over hot coals, till it is. completely dissolved ;
and then brown it by holding1 over it a salamander, or a red-
hot shovel. Lay the toast in the bottom and round the sides
of a deep dish ; put the melted cheese upon it, and serve it up
as hot as possible, with dry toast in a separate plate ; and
accompanied by porter or ale.

This preparation of cheese is for a plain supper.

Dry cheese is frequently grated on little plates for the tea-
table.

TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.

• *

To each square of a chocolate cake allow three Jills, or a
chocolate cup and a half of boiling water. Scrape down the
chocolate- with a knife, and mix it first to a paste with 'a small
quantity of the hot water; just enough to melt it in. Then
put it into a block tin .pot with the remainder of the water ;
set it on hot coals ; cover it, and let it boil (stirring it twice)
till the liquid is one third reduced. Supply that third with
cream or rich milk; stir- it again, and take it. off Jhe fire.

•

Serve it up as hot as possible, with dry toast, or dry rusk.
It chills immediately. If you wish it frothed, pour it into the

388 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING*.

cup, and twirl round in it the little wooden instrument called
a chocolate mill, till you have covered the top with loam.

TO MAKE TEA.— In buying tea, it is best to get it by the

box, of an importer, that you may be sure of having it fresh,
and unmixed with any that is old and of inferior quality.
The box should be kept in a very dry place. If green tea
is good, it will look green in the cup when poured out. Black
tea should be dark coloured and have a fragrant flowery
smell. The best pots for making tea are those of china.
Metal and Wedgwood tea-pots by frequent use will often
communicate a disagreeable taste to the tea. This disadvan-

a

tage may be remedied in Wedgwood ware, by occasionally
boiling the tea-pots in a vessel of hot water.

In preparing to make tea, let the pot be twice scalded
from the tea-kettle, which must be boiling hard at the moment
the water is poured on the tea ; otherwise it will be weak and
insipid, even when a large quantity is put in. The best way
is to have a chafing dish, with a kettle always boiling on it,
in the room where the tea is made. It is a good rule to allow
two heaping tea-spoonfuls of tea to a large cup-full of
water, or two tea-spoonfuls for each grown person that
is to drink tea, and one spoonful extra. The pot being
twice scalded, put in the tea, and pour on the water about ten
minutes before you want to fill the cups, that it- may have
time to draw or infuse. Have hot water in another pot, to
weaken the cups of those that like it so. That the second
course of cups may be as strong as the first, put some tea into
a eup just before you sit down to table, pour on it a very little
boiling water, (just enough to cover it,) set a saucer over it to
heep in the steam, and let it infuse till you have filled all the
first cups ; then add it to that already in the tea-pot, and p -MT

CHOCOLATE, ETC. 389

•#

In a little boiling water from the kettle. Except that .it is less
convenient for a large family, a kettle on a chafing dish is
better than an urn, as the water may be kept longer boiling.

In making black tea, use a larger quantity than of green, as
it is of a much weaker nature. The best;, black teas in general
use are pekoe and pouchong; the best green teas are imperial,
young hysjon, and gunpowder.

TO MAKE COFFEE.— The manner in which coffee is
roasted is of great importance to its flavour. If roasted too
little, it .will be weak and insipid ; if too much,-' the taste will
be bitter and unpleasant. To have it very good, it should be
roasted immediately before it is made, doing no more than the
quan :ty you want at that time. It loses much of its strength
by keeping, even in twenty-four hours after roasting. It
should on no consideration be ground till directly before it is
made. Every family should be provided with a coffee roaster,
which is an iron cylinder to stand before the fire, and is either
turned by a handle, or wound up like a jack to go of itself.
If roasted in an open pot or pan, much of the flavour evaporates
in the process. Before the coffee is put into the roaster, it
should be carefully examined and picked, lest there should be
stones or bad grains among it. It should be roasted of a
bright brown ; and will be improved by putting among it a
piece of butter when about half done.

Watch it carefully while roasting, looking at it frequently.

•

A coffee-mill affixed to the wall is far more convenient than
one that must be held on the lap. It is best to grind the coffee
while warm.

Allow half a pint of ground coffee to one quart of water.
If the coffee is not freshly roasted, you should put in more.

Put the water into the tin coffee-pot, and set it OD hot coals ;

33*

390 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

when it boils, put in the coffee, a spoonful at a time, (stirring
it between each spoonful,) and add two or three chips of
isrtiglass, or the white of an egg. Stir it frequently, till it has
risen up to the top in boiling ; then set it a little farther from
the fire, and boil it gently for ten -minutes, or a quarter of an
nour; after which pour' in "a tea-cup of cold water, and put
it in the corner to settle for ten minutes. Scald your silver
or china pot, and transfer the coffee to it ; carefully pouring it
off from the grounds, so as not to disturb them.

o

If coffee is allowed to boil too long, it will lose much of its
strength, and also become sour.

FRENCH COFFEE.— To make coffee without boiling,
you must have a biggin, the best sort of which is what in
France is called a Grecque. They are to be had of various
sizes and prices at the tin stores. Coffee made.in this manner
is much less troublesome than when boiled, and requires no
white of egg or isinglass to clear it. The coffee should be
freshly roasted and ground. Allow two cupfuls of ground
coffee to six cupfuls of boiling water. Having first scalded
the biggin, (which should have strainers of perforated tin, and
not of linen,) put in the coffee, and pour on the water, which
should be boiling hard at the time* Shut down the lid, place
the pot near the fire, and the coffee will be ready as soon as
it has all drained through the coarse and fine strainers into the

* ifl

receiver below the spout. Scald your china or silver pot, and
pour the coffee into it. But it is best to have a biggin in the
form of an urn, in which the coffee can both be made and
brought to table.

For what is called milk coffee, — boil the milk or cream
separately ; bring it to table in a covered vessel, and pour it
hot into the coffee, the flavour of which will be impaired if
the milk is boiled with it.

391

DOMESTIC LIQUORS ETC.

_ »

SPRUCE BEER.

•

PUT into a large kettle, ten gallons of water, a quarter of a
pound of hops, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Boil them together
till all the hops sink to the bottom. Then dip out a bucket
full of the liquor, and stir into it six quarts of molasses, and
three ounces and a half of the essence of spruce. When all
is dissolved, mix it with the liquor in the kettle ; strain it
through a hair sieve into a cask ; and stir well into it half a
pint of good strong yeast. Let it ferment a day or two ; then
bung up the cask, and you may bottle the beer the next day.
It will be fit for use in a week. •

For the essence of spruce, you may substitute two pounds
of the outer sprigs of the spruce fir, boiled ten minutes in the
liquor.

To make spruce beer for present use, and in a smaller

•

quantity, boil a handful of hops in two gallons and a half of
water, till they fall to the bottom. Then strain the water,
and when it is lukewarm, stir into it a table-spoonful of ground
white ginger ; a pint of molasses ; a table-spoonful of essence
of spruce ; and half a pint of yeast. Mix the whole well- to-
gether in a stone jug, and let it ferment for a day and a half,
or two days. Then put it into bottles, with three or four raisins
in the bottom of each, to prevent any further fermentation. It
will then be fit for immediate use.

GINGER BEER.— Break up a pound and a half of loaf-
sugar, and mix with it three ounces of strong white ginger,
and the grated peel of two lemons. Put these ingredients

392 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING,

into a large stone jar, and pour over them two gallons of boil-
ing water. When it becomes milkwarm strain it, and add the
juice of the lemons and two large table-spoonfuls of strong
yeast. Make this beer in the evening and let it stand all
night. Next morning bottle it in little half pint stone bottles,
tying down the corks with twine.

MOLASSES BEER.— To six quarts of water, add two
quarts of West India molasses ; half a pint of the best brewer's
yeast ; two table-spoonfuls of ground ginger ; and one table-
spoonful of cream of tartar. Stir all together. Let it stand
twelve hours, and then bottle it, putting three or four raisins
into each bottle.

It will be much improved by substituting the juice and
grated peel of a large lemon, for one of the spoonfuls of ginger.

Molasses beer keeps good but two or three days.

SASSAFRAS BEER.— Have ready two gallons of soft
water ; one quart of wrheat bran ; a large handful of dried

•

apples ; half a pint of molasses ; a small handful of hops ;
half a pint of strong fresh yeast, and a piece of sassafras root
the size of an egg.

Put all the ingredients (except the molasses and yeast) at
once into a large kettle. Boil it till the apples are quite soft.

.

Put the molasses into a small clean tub or a large pan. Set
a hair sieve over the vessel, and strain the mixture through it.
I~et it stand till it becomes only milkwarm, and then stir in the
yeast. Put the liquor immediately into the keg or jugs, and let
it stand uncorked to ferment. Fill the jugs quite full, that the

•

liquor in fermenting may run over. Set them in a lajge tub.
When you see that the fermentation or working has subsided,
cork it, and it will be fit for use next day.

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC. 393

Two large table-spoonfuls of ginger stirred into the molasses
will be found an improvement.

If the yeast is stirred in while the liquor is too warm, it
will be likely to turn sour.

If the liquor is not put immediately into the jugs, it wiL not
ferment well.

Keep it in a cold place. It will not in warm weather bo
good more than two days. It is only made for present use.

GOOSEBERRY WINE.

ALLOW three gallons of soft water (measured after it has
boiled an hour) to six gallons of gooseberries, which must be
full ripe. Top and tail the gooseberries ; put them, a few at
a time, into a wooden dish, and with a rolling-pin or beetle
break and mash every one; transferring them, as they are
done, into a large stone jar. Pour the boiling water upon the
mashed gooseberries ; cover the jar, and let them stand twelve
hours. Then strain and measure the juice, and to each quart
allow three-quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar ; mix it with the
liquid, and let it stand eight or nine hours to dissolve, stirring
it several times.

Then pour it into a keg of proper size for containing it, and
let it ferment at the bung-hole ; "filling it up as as it works out
with some of the liquor reserved for that purpose. As soon
as it ceases to hiss, stop it close with a cloth wrapped round
the bung. A pint of white brandy for' every gallon of the
gooseberry wine may be added on bunging it up. At the end
of four or five months it will probably be fine enough to bottle
off. It is best to bottle it in cold frosty weather. You may
refine it by allowing to every gallon of wine the whites of two

'J94 DIRECTIONS FOR COOK IN G.

eggs, beaten to a froth, with a very small tea-spoonful of salt.
When the white of egg, &c. is a stiff froth, take out a quart
of the wine, and mix them well together. Then pour it into
the cask, and in a few days it will be fine and clear. You
may begin to use it any time after it js bottled. Put two or
three raisins in the bottom of each bottle. They will tend to
keep the wine from any farther fermentation.

Fine gooseberry wine has frequently passed for champagne.
Keep the bottles in saw-dust, lying on their sides.

CURRANT WINE.— Take four gallons of ripe currants ;
strip them from the stalks into a great stone jar that has a

cover to it, and mash them with a long thick stick. Let them

•
stand twenty-four hours ; then put the currants into a large

linen bag ; wash out the jar, set it under the bag, and squeeze
the juice into it. Boil together two gallons and a half of
water, and five pounds and a half of the best loaf-sugar,
skimming it well. When the scum ceases to rise, mix the
syrup with the currant juice. Let it stand a fortnight or three
, weeks to* settle ; and then transfer it to another vessel, taking
care not to disturb the lees or dregs. If it is not quite clear
•and bright, refine it by mixing with a quart of the wine, (taken
out for the purpose,) the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff
froth, and half an ounce of cream of tartar. Pour this gra-
dually into'the vessel. Let il stand ten days, and then bottle
it off. Place the bottles in saw-dust, laying them on their
sides. Take care that the saw-dust is not from pine wood.
The wine will be fit to drink in a year, but is better when three
or four years old.

You may add a little brandy to it when you make it;
allowing a quart of brandy to six gallons of wine.

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC. 395

RASPBERRY WINE.— Put four gallons of ripe rnsp-
oerries into a stone jar, and mash them with a round stick.
Take four gallons of soft water, (measured after it has boiled
an hour,) and strain it warm over the raspberries. Stir it well
and let it stand twelve hours. Then strain it through a ba«r

O O '

and to every gallon of liquor put. three pounds of loaf-sugar.
Set it over a clear fire, and boil and skim it till the scum
ceases to rise. When it is cold bottle it. Open the bottles
every day for a fortnight, closing them again in a few minutes.
Then seal the corks, and lay the bottles on their sides in saw-
dust, which must not be from pine wood.

ELDERBERRY WINE.— Gather the elderberries when
quite ripe ; put them into a stone jar, mash them with a round
stick, and set them in a warm oven, or in a large kettle of boil-
ing water till the jar is hot through, and the berries begin to
simmer. Then take them out, and press and strain them through
a sieve. To every quart of juice allow a pound of Havanna
or Lisbon sugar, and two quarts of cold soft water. Put the
sugar into a large kettle, pour the juice over it, and, when it
has dissolved, stir in the water. Set the kettle over the fire,
and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. To four
gallons of the liquor add a pint and a half of brandy. Put it
into a keg, and let it stand with the bung put in loosely for
four or five days, by which time it will have ceased to fer-
ment. Then stop it closely, plastering the bung with clay.
At the end of six months, draw off a little of it ; and if it is
not quite clear and •bright, refine it with the whites and shells
of three or four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth and stirred into a
quart of the wine, taken out for the purpose and then returned^
to the cask ; or you may refine it with an ounce or more of dis-
solved isinglass. Let it stand a week or two, and then bottle it.

396 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

This is an excellent domestic wine, very common in Eng-
land, and deserving to be better known in America, where the
elderberry tree is found in great abundance. Elderberry wine
is generally taken mulled with spice, and warm.

ELDER FLOWER WINE. —Take the flowers or blos-
soms of the elder tree, and strip them from the stalks. To
every quart of flowers allow one gallon of water, and three
pounds of white sugar. Boil and skim the sugar and water,
and then pour it hot on the flowers. When cool, mix in with
it some lemon juice and some yeast; allowing to six gallons
of the liquor the juice of six lemons, and four or five table-
spoonfuls of good yeast stirred in very hard. Let it ferment
for three days in a tub covered with a double blanket. Then
strain the wine through a sieve, (add six whites of eggs beaten
to a stiff froth, or an ounce of melted isinglass,) and put it
mto a cask, in the bottom of which you have laid four or five
pounds of the best raisins, stoned. Stop the cask closely, and
in six months the wine \vill be fit to bottle. It will much
resemble Frontiniac, the elder flowers imparting to it a very
pleasant taste.

CIDER WINE.-— Take sweet cider immediately from the
press. Strain it through a flannel bag into a tub, and stir
into it as muoh honey as will make it strong enough to bear
up an egg. Then boil and skim it, and when the scum ceases
to rise, strain it again. When cool, put it into a cask, and set
it in a cool cellar till spring. Then bottle it off; and when
ripe, it will be found a very pleasant beverage. The cider
must be of the very best quality, made entirely from good
Bound apples.

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC. 397

MEAD. — To every gallon of water put five pounds of
strained honey, (the water must be hot when you add the
honey,) and boil it three quarters of an hour, skimming it
well. Then put in some hops tied in a thin bag, (allowing an
ounce or a handful to each gallon,) and let it boil half an hour
longer. Strain it into a tub, and let it stand four days. Then
put it into a cask, (or into a demijohn if the quantity is small,)
adding for each gallon of mead a jill of brandy and a sliced
lemon. If a large cask, do not bottle it till it has stood a year.

FOX GRAPE SHRUB.— Gather the grapes when they are
full grown, but before they begin to purple. Pick from the stems
a sufficient quantity to nearly fill a large preserving kettle,
and pour on them as much boiling water as the kettle will
hold. Set it over a brisk fire, and -keep it scalding hot till all
the grapes have burst. Then take them off, press out and
strain the liquor, and allow to each quart a pound of sugar
stirred well in. Dissolve the sugar in the juice ; then put
them together into a clean kettle, and boil and skim them for
ten minutes, or till the scum ceases to rise. When cold, bottle
It ; first putting into each bottle a jill of brandy. Seal the
bottles, and keep them in a warm closet.

You may make gooseberry shrub in this manner.

CURRANT SHRUB.— Your currants must be quite ripe.
Pick them from the stalks, and squeeze them through a linen
bag. To each quart of juice allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put
the sugar and juice into a preserving kettle, and let it melt
before it goes on the fire. Boil it ten minutes, skimming i:
well. When cold, add a jill of the best white brandy to each
quart of the juice. Bottle it, and set it away for use ; sealing

the corks. It improves by keeping.

34

398 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Raspberry shrub may be made in this manner ; also straw-
berry.

CHERRY SHRUB.— Pick from the stalks, and stone a
sufficient quantity of ripe morellas, or other red cherries of the
best and most juicy description. Put them with all their
juice into a stone jar, and set it, closely covered, into a deep
kettle of boiling water. Keep it boiling hard for a quarter of
an hour. Then pour the cherries into a bag, and strain and
press out all the juice. Allow a pound of sugar to a quart of
juice, boil them together ten minutes in a preserving kettle,
skimming them well, and when cold, bottle the liquid ; first
putting a jill of brandy into each bottle.

CHERRY BOUNCE.— Mix together six pounds of ripe
niorellas and six pounds of large black heart cherries. Put

V

them into a wooden bowl or tub, and with a pestle or mallet
mash them so as to crack all the stones. Mix with the cherries
three pounds of loaf-sugar, or of sugar candy broken up, and
put them into a demijohn, or into a large stone jar. Pour on two
gallons of the best double rectified whiskey. Stop the vessel
closely, and let it stand three months, shaking it every day
during the first month. At the end of the three months you
may strain the liquor and bottle it off. It improves by age.

LEMON SYRUP. — Break up into large pieces six pounds
of fine loaf-sugar. Take twelve large ripe lemons, and (with-
out cutting them) grate the yellow rind upon the sugar. Then
put the sugar, with the lemon gratings and two quarts of
water, into a preserving kettle, and let it dissolve. When it
is all melted, boil it till quite thick, skimming it till no more
scum rises ; it will then be done. Have ready the juice of

DOMESTIC LIQUOR S, E T C. 399

all the lemons, stir it in, and boil it ten minutes more. Bottle
it, and keep it in a cold place.

It make* a delicious drink in summer, in the proportion of
one third lemon syrup and two thirds ice water.

LEMON CORDIAL.

PARE off very thin the yellow rind of a dozen large lemons ;
throw the parings into a gallon of white brandy, and let them
steep till next day, or at least twelve hours. Break up four
pofmds of loaf-sugar into another vessel, and squeeze upon it
the juice of the lemons. Let this too stand all night. Next
day mix all together, boil two quarts of milk, and pour it boil-
ing'hot into the other ingredients. Cover the vessel, and let
it stand eight days, stirring it daily. Then strain it through
a flannel bag till the liquid is perfectly clear. Let it stand six
weeks in a demijohn or glass jar, and then bottle it.

To make it still more clear, you may filter it through a
piece of fine muslin pinned down to the bottom of a sieve, or
through blotting paper, \vhich must be frequently renewed.
It should be white blotting paper. Orange cordial may be
made in the same manner.

ROSE CORDIAL.— Put a pound of fresh rose leaves into
a tureen, with a quart of lukewarm water. Cover the vessel,
and let them infuse for twenty-four hours. Then squeeze
them through a linen bag till all the liquid is pressed out.
Put a fresh pound of rose leaves into • the tureen, pour the
liquid back into it, and let it infuse again for two days. You
may repeat this till you obtain a very strong infusion. Then
to a pint of the infusion add half a pound of loaf-sugar, half a
pint of white brandy, an ounce' of broken cinnamon, and an

400 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

ounce of coriander seeds. Put it into a glass jar, cover it
well, and let it stand for two weeks. Then filter it through a
fine muslin or a blotting paper (which must he white) pinned
on the bottom of a sieve ; and bottle it for use.

STRAWBERRY CORDIAL.— Hull a sufficient quantity
of ripe strawberries, and squeeze them through a linen bag.
To each quart of the juice allow a pint of white brandy, and
half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put the liquid into a
glass jar or a demijohn, and let it stand a fortnight. Then
niter it through a sieve, to the bottom of which a piece of fine
rnuslin or blotting paper has been fastened ; and afterw*ds
bottle it.

RASPBERRY CORDIAL— May be made in the above
manner.

QUINCE CORDIAL.— Take the finest and ripest quinces
you can procure, wipe them clean, and cut out all the de-
fective parts. Then grate them into a tureen or some other
large vessel, leaving out the seeds and cores. Let the grated
pulp remain covered in the tureen for twenty-four hours.
Then squeeze it through a jelly-bag or cloth. To six quarts
of the juice allow a quart of cold water, three pounds of loaf-
sugar, (broken up,) and a quart of white brandy. Mix the •
whole well together, and put it into a stone jar. Have
ready three very small flannel or thick muslin bags, (not
larger than two inches square,) fill one with grated nutmeg,
another with powdered mace, and the third with powdered
cloves ; and put them into the jar that the spice may
flavour the liquor without mixing with it. Leave the jar
uncorked for a few days ; reserving some of the liquor to re-

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC. 401

place that which may flow over in the fermentation. When-

* •

ever it has done working, bottle it off, but do not use it for six
months. If not sufficiently bright and clear, filter it through
fine muslin pinned round the bottom of a sieve, or through a
white blotting paper fastened in the same manner.

PEACH CORDIAL.— Take the ripest and most juicy
free-stone peaches you can procure. Cut them from the
stones, and quarter them without paring. Crack the stones,
and extract the kernels, which must be blanched and slightly
pounded. Put the peaches into a large stone jar in layers,
alternately with layers of the kernels, and of powdered loaf-
sugar. When the jar is three parts full of the peaches, ker-
nels, and sugar, fill it up witk. white -brandy. Set the jar in
a large pan, and leave it uncovered for three or four days, in
case of its fermenting and flowing over at the top. Fill up
what is thus wasted with more brandy, and then close the jar
tightly. Let it stand five or six months ; then filter it, and
bottle it for use.

Cherry, apricot, and plum cordial may be made in the above
Q
manner ; adding always the kernels.

ANNISEED COPvDIAL.— Melt a pound of loaf-sugar in
two quarts of water. Mix it with two quarts of white brandy,
and add a table-spoonful of oil of anniseed. Let it stand a
week ; then filter it through whfte blotting paper, and bottle
it for use.

Clove or Cinnamon Cordial may be made in the same
manner, by mixing sugar, water and brandy, and adding oil of
cinnamon or oil of cloves. You may colour any of these cor-
dials red by stirring in a little powdered cochineal that has

been dissolved in a small quantity of brandy.

34*

402 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

ROSE BRANDY.— Nearly fill a china or glass jar with
freshly-gathered rose leaves, and pour in sufficient.French white
brandy to fill it quite up ; and then cover it closely. Next day
put the whole into a strainer, -and having squeezed and pressed
the rose leaves and drained off the liquid, throw away the
leaves, put fresh ones into the jar, and return the brandy to it.
Repeat this every day while roses are in season, (taking care
fo keep the jar well covered,) and you will find the liquid
much better than rose water for flavouring cakes and puddings.

LEMON BRANDY. — When you use lemons for punch
or lemonade, do not throw away the peels, but cut them in
small pieces, and put them into a glass jar or bottle of brandy.
You will find this brandy useful for many purposes.

la the same way keep for use the kernels of peach and
plum stones, pounding them slightly before you put them into
the brandy.

NOYAU. — Blanch and break up a pound of shelled bitter
almonds or peach kernels. Mix with them the grated rinds
of three large lemons, half a pint of clarified honey that has
been boiled and skimmed, and three pounds of the best double-
refined loaf-sugar. Put these ingredients 'into a jar or demi-
john; pour in four quarts of the best white brandy or proof
spirit ; stop the vessel, and let it stand three months, shaking
it every day for the first month. Then filter it, dilute it with
rose water to your taste, (you may allow a quart of rose water
to each quart of the liquor,) and bottle it for use.

This and any other cordial may be coloured red by mixing •
with it (after it is filtered) cochineal, powdered, dissolved in a
little white brandy, and strained through fine muslin.

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC.

403

RATAFIA. — Pound in a mortar, and mix together a pound
of shelled bitter almonds, an ounce of nutmegs, a pound ot fine
loaf-sugar, and one grain (apothecaries' weight) of ambergris.
Infuse these ingredients for a week in a gallon of white brandy
or proof spirit. Then filter it, and bottle it for uSe.

CAPILLAIRE. — Powder eight pounds of loaf-sugar, and
wet it with three pints of water and three eggs well beaten
with their shells. Stir the whole mass very hard, and poll it
twice .over, skimming it well. Then strain it, and stir in two
wine glasses of orange flower water. Bottle it, and use it for
a summer draught, mixed with a little lemon juice and water ;
or you may sweeten punch with it.

ORGEAT. — To make orgeat paste, blanch, mix together,
and pound in a mortar till perfectly smooth, three quarters of
a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and one quarter of a pound
of shelled bitter almonds ; adding frequently a little orange-
flower or rose water, to keep them from oiling ; and mixing
with them, as you proceed, a pound of fine loaf-sugar that has
been previously powdered by itself. When the whole is tho-
roughly incorporated to a stiff paste, put it into little pots and
close them well. It will keep five or six months, and, when
you wish to use it for a beverage, allow a piece of orgeat
about the size of an egg to each half pint or tumbler ot water
Having well stirred it, strain the mixture.

To make liquid orgeat, for present use ; blanch and pound
in a mortar, with rose water, a quarter of a pound of sweet
and an ounce and a half of bitter almonds. Then sweeten
three pints of rich milk with half a pound of loaf-sugar, and
stir the almonds gradually into it. Boil it over hot coals ;
and as soon as it comes to a boil, take it off and stir it fre-

404 * DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

((neatly till it gets cold. Then strain it, add a glass of brandy,
and put it into decanters. When you pour it out for drinking
dilute it with water.

LEMONADE. — Take fine ripe lemons, and roll them
under your hand on the table to increase the quantity of juice.
Then cut and squeeze them into a pitcher, and mix the juice
with loaf-sugar and cold water. To half a pint of lemon
juice you may allow a pint and a half of water, and ten or
twelve moderate sized lumps of sugar. Send it round in little
glasses with handles.

To make a tumbler of very good lemonade, allow the juice
of one lemon and four or five lumps of sugar, filling up the
glass with water. In summer use ice water.

ORANGEADE — Is made of oranges, in the same propor-
tion as lemonade. It is very fine when frozen.

PUNCH.

ROLL twelve fine lemons under your hand on the table ; then
pare off the yellow rind very thin, and boil it in a gallon of
water till all the flavour is drawn out. Break up into a large
bowl, two pounds of loaf-sugar, and squeeze the lemons over
it. When the water has boiled sufficiently, strain it from the
lemon-peel, and mix it with the lemon juice and sugar. Stir
in a quart of rum or of the best whiskey.

Two scruples of flowers of benjamin, steeped in a quart of
rum, will make an infusion which much resembles the arrack
of the East Indies. It should be kept in a bottle, and a little
of it will be found to impart a very fine and fragrant flavour to
punch made in the usual manner.

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC. 405

FROZEN PUNCH — Is made as above, omitting- one half
of the rum or whiskey. Put it into an ice-cream freezer,
shaking- or stirring it all the time. When it is frozen, send it
round immediately, in small glasses with a tea-spoon for each.

ROMAN PUNCH.— Grate the yellow rinds of four
lemons and two oranges upon two pounds of loaf-sugar.
Squeeze on the juice of the lemons and oranges; cover it, and
let it stand till next day. Then strain it through a sieve, add
a bottle of champagne, and the whites of eight eggs beaten to
a froth. You may freeze it or not.

MILK PUNCH. — What is commonly called milk punch,
is a mixture of brandy or rum, sugar, milk and nutmeg, with-
without either lemon juice or water. It .is taken cold with a
lump of ice in each tumbler.

FINE MILK PUNCH.— Pare off the yellow rind of four
large lemons, and steep it for twenty-four hours in a quart of
brandy or rum. Then mix with it the juice of the lemons, a
pound and a half of loaf-sugar, two grated nutmegs, and a
quart of water. Add a quart of rich unskimmed milk, made
boiling hot, and strain the whole through a jelly-bag. You
may either use"it as soon as it is cold, or make a larger quan-
tity, (in the above proportions,) and bottle it. It will keep
several months.

REGENT'S PUNCH.— Take four large lemons; roil
them on the table to make them more juicy, and then pare
them as thin as possible. Cut out all the pulp, and threw
away the seeds and the white part of the rind. Put the yel-
low rind and the pulp into a pint of boiling water with one

400 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

tea-spoonfuls of raw green tea of the best sort. Let all boil
together about ten minutes. Then strain it through linen, and
stir in a pound of powdered loaf-sugar and a bottle of
cnampagne, or of" any liquo* suitable for punch. Set it
again over the fire, and \vhen just ready to boil, remove it,
and pour it.into a china bowl or pitcher, to be sent round in
glasses.

WINE J-ELLY. — Clarify a pound of loaf-sugar, by mixing
it with half a pint of water and the beaten white of an egg,
and then boiling and skimming it. Put an ounce of isinglass
(with as much boiling water as will cover it) into a small
sauce-pan, and set it in hot coals till the isinglass is thoroughly
dissolved. Then when the syrup has been taken from the
fire, mix the melted isinglass with it, add a quart of white

•

'wine and stir in a table-spoonful or a spoonful and a half of
old Jamaica spirits. Stir the mixture very hard, and pour it
into a mould. When it has congealed, wrap a cloth dipped
in warm water round the outside of the mould ; turn out the
jelly, and eat it with ice-cream.

SHERRY COBLER.— Lay in" the bottom of a tumbler
some pieces of the yellow rind of an orange or lemon, pared
off very thin ; and add a heaping table-spoonful of powdered
loaf-sugar. Upon this, place some pounded ice. Pour on
sherry wine till the tumbler is one-third, or half full. Hold
an empty tumbler inverted or turned downwards, upon the
top of that which contains the ingredients ; placing the glasses
so that their edges exactly meet, and leaving no opening for
any portion of the contents to escape. Keep your hands
fast on the two tumblers, one above and one below, and turn
them up and down, back and forwards, till the articles inside

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC. 407

are thoroughly mixed. Then take off the upper tumbler, and
let the lower one stand still a few moments before you fill it
up with ice-water.

MULLED WINE.— Boil together, in a pint of water, a
beaten nutmeg1, two sticks of cinnamon broken up, and a
table-spoonful of cloves slightly, pounded. When reduced to
one-half, strain the liquid into a quart of wine, set it on hot
coals, take it off as soon as it comes to a boil, and sweeten it.
Serve it up hot in a pitcher, surrounded by glass cups, and
with it a plate of rusk.

MULLED CIDER. — Allow six eggs to a quart of cider
Put a handful of whole cloves into the cider, and boil it.
While it is boiling, beat the eggs in a large pitcher ; adding
to them as much sugar as will make the cider very sweet.
By the time the cider boils, the eggs will be sufficiently light.
Pour the boiling liquor on the beaten egg, and continue to poui
the mixture backwards and forwards from one pitcher to ano-
ther, till it has a fine froth on it. Then pour it warm into
your glasses, and grate some nutmeg over each.

Port wine may be mulled in the same manner.

EGG NOGG. — Beat separately the yolks and whites of
six eggs. Stir the yolks into a quart of rich milk, or thin
cream, and add half a pound of sugar. Then mix in half a
pint of rum or brandy. Flavour it with a grated nutmeg.
Lastly, stir in gently the beaten whites of three eggs.

It should be mixed in a china bowl.

SANGAREE. — Mix in a pitcher or in tumblers one-third
of wine, ale, or porter, with two-thirds of water either warm

408 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

or cold. Stir in sufficient loaf-sugar to sweeten it, and grate
some nutmeo- into it. %

o

By adding to it lemon juice, you may make what is
called negus.

TURKISH SHERBET.— Put into a large pitcher a pound
and a half of the best loaf-sugar, broken small. Pour on it a
quart of clear cold water, and crush and stir the sugar till it
is all melted. Take a dozen large fine ripe oranges, and roll
every one under your hand on a table, to increase the juice.
Take off the yellow rind in large thin pieces, and cut them
neatly into round shapes, the size of a half-dollar. Squeeze
the juice of the oranges through a strainer upon the melted
sugar, and stir it well. Set the pitcher on ice till the sherbet
i» wanted. Serve it up in lemonade-glasses, placing in the
bottom of each, one of the round pieces of orange-rind, and
lay a lump of ice upon it. Then fill the glasses with the
sherbet. Instead of orange-juice, you may use that of
strawberries, raspberries, or currants, pressed through a
strainer.

BOTTLED SMALL BEER.— Take a quart bottle of the
very best brisk porter, and mix it with four quarts of water,
a pint of molasses, and a table-spoonful of ginger. Bottle it,
and see that the corks are of the very best kind. It will be
fit for use in three or four days.

TO KEEP LEMON JUICE.— Powder a pound of the
best loaf-sugar; put it into a bowl, and strain over it a pint
of lemon juice ; stirring it well with a silver spoon till the
sugar has entirely melted. Boil and skim it. Then bottle
it, sealing the corks; and keep it in a dry place.

DOMESTIC LIQUORS, ETC.

ESSENCE OF LEMOX-PEEL.— Rub lump, of ]nnf-fm#iT
on fine ripe lemons till the yellow rind i.s nil grated ofi';
scraping up the sugar in a tea-spoon, and putting it on a plate,
as you proceed. When you have enough, press it down into
a little glass or china jar, and cover it closely. This will be
found very fine to flavour puddings and cakes. The white or

•

inside of lemon-peel is of no use.

CIDER "VINEGAR.

TAKE six quarts of rye meal ; stir and mix it well into a
barrel of strong hard cider of the best kind ; and then add a
gallon of whiskey. Cover the cask, (leaving the bung loosely
in it,) set it in the part of your yard that is most exposed to
the sun and air ; and in the course of four weeks (if the wea-
ther is warm and dry) you will have good vinegar fit for use.
When you draw off a gallon or more, replenish the cask with
the same quantity of cider, and add about a pint of whiskey.
You may thus have vinegar constantly at hand for common
purposes-.

The cask should have iron hoops.

A very strong vinegar may be made by mixing cider and
strained honey, (allowing a pound of honey to a gallon of
cider,) and letting it stand five or six months. This vinegar

* / o o

is so powerful that for common purposes it should be diluted
with a little water.

Vinegar may be made in the same manner of sour wine.

WHITE VINEGAR.— Put into a cask a mixture com-
posed of five gallons of water, two gallons of whiskey, and a
quart of strong yeast, stirring in two pounds of powdered
charcoal. Place it where it will ferment properly, leaving

the bung loose till the fermentation is over, but covering tho

35

410 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

hole slightly to keep out the dust and insects. At the end of
four months draw it off, and you will have a fine vinegar, as
clear and colourless as water.

SUGAR VINEGAR.— To every gallon of water allow a
pound of the best white sugar, and a jill or more of strong
yeast. Mix the sugar and water together, and boil and skim
it till the scum ceases to rise. Then pour it into a tub ; and
when it cools to lukewarm heat,*put into it the yeast spread
on pieces of toast. Let it work two days ; then put it into an
iron-hooped cask, and set it in a sunny place for five months,
leaving the bung loose, but keeping the bung-hole covered.
In five months it will be good clear vinegar, and you may
bottle it for use.

A cask that has not contained vmesfar before, should have

o '

a quart of boiling hot vinegar poured into it, shaken about
frequently till cold, and allowed to stand some hours.

COMMON CIDER VINEGAR.— Set a barrel of hard
sour cider in the sun for a few weeks, or three months, and it
will become good vinegar.

PINE-APPLE-ADE. — Pare and slice some very ripe pine-
apples ; then cut the slices into small pieces. Put them with all
their juice into a large pitcher, and sprinkle among them plenty
of powdered white sugar. Pour on boiling water, allowing a
small half pint to each pine-apple. Cover the pitcher, and let

• .

it stand till quite cool, occasionally pressing down the pine
apple with a spoon. Then set the pitcher, for a while, in ice.
Lastly, strain the infusion into another vessel, and transfer it
to tumblers, putting into each glass some more sugar and a
bit of ice. This beverage will be found delicious.

Ill

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK.

CHICKEN JELLY.

TAKE a large chicken, cut it up into very small pieces,
bruise the bones, and put the whole into a stone jar with a
cover that will make it water tight. Set the jar in a large
kettle of boiling water, and keep it boiling for three hours.
Then strain off the liquid, and season it slightly with salt,
pepper, and mace ; or with'loaf-sugar and lemon juice, accord-
ing to the taste of the person for whom it is intended.

Return the fragments of the chicken to the jar, and set it
again in a kettle of boiling water. You will find that you can
collect nearly as much jelly by the second boiling.

This jelly may be made of an old fowl.

BREAD JELLY. — Measure a quart of boiling water, and

•

set it away to get cold. Take one-third of a six cent loaf of*
bread, slice it, pare off the crust, and toast the crumb nicely
of a light brown. Then put it into the boiled water, set it on
hot coals in a covered pan, and boil it gently, till you find by
putting some in a spoon to cool, that the liquid has become a
jelly. Strain it through a thin cloth, and set it away for use.
When it is to be taken, warm a tea-cupful, sweeten it with
sugar, and add a little grated lemon-peel.

ARROW ROOT JELLY.— Mix three table-spoonfuls of
arrow root powder in a tea-cup of water till quite smooth ;
cover it, and let it stand a quarter of an hour. Put the yellow
peel of a lemon into a skillet with a pint of water, and let it
boil till reduced to one half. Then take out the lemon-peel,

412 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

and pour in the dissolved arrow root, (while the water is still
boiling ;) add sufficient white sugar to sweeten it well, and
let it boil together for five or six minutes. It may be seasoned
(if thought necessary) with two tea-spoonfuls of wine, and
some grated nutmeg.

It may be boiled in milk instead of water, or in wine and
water, according to the state of the person for whom it is
wanted.

UICE JELLY. — Having picked and washed a quarter of
a pound of rice, mix it with half a pound of loaf-sugar, and
just sufficient water to cover it. Boil it till it becomes a
glutinous mass ; then strain it ; season it with whatever may
be thought proper ; and let it stand to cool.

PORT WINE JELLY.— Melt in a little warm water an
ounce of isinglass ; stir it into a pint of port wine, adding two
ounces of sugar candy, an ounce of gum arabic, and half a

9 '

nutmeg grated. Mix all well, and boil it ten minutes ; or till
every thing is thoroughly dissolved. Then strain it through
muslin, and set it away to get coid.

SAGO. — Wash the sago through two or three waters, and
then let it soak for two or three hours. To a tea-cupful of
sago allow a quart of water and some of the yellow peel of a
lemon. Simmer it till all the grains look transparent. Then
add as much wine and nutmeg as may be proper,, and give it
another boil altogether. If seasoning is not advisable, the
sago may be boiled in milk instead of water, and eaten plain.

TAPIOCA. — Wash the tapioca well, and let it steep for
five or six hours, changing the water three times. Simmer

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. 413

It in the last water till quite clear, then season it with sugar
and wine, or lemon juice.

GRUEL. — Allow three large table-spoonfuls of oatmeal or
Indian meal to a quart of water. Put the meal into a large
bowl, and add the wrater, a little at a time, mixing and bruis-
ing the meal with the back of a spoon. As you proceed, pour
off the liquid into another bowl, every time, before adding
fresh water to the meal, till you have used it all up. Then
boil the mixture for twenty minutes, stirring it all the while ;
add a little salt. Then strain the gruel and sweeten it. A
piece of butter may be stirred into it ; and, if thought proper,
a little wine and nutmeg. It should be taken warm.

OATMEAL GRUEL.— Put four table-spoonfuls of the
best grits (oatmeal coarsely ground) into a pint of boiling
water. Let it boil gently, and stir it often, till it becomes as
thick as you wish it. Then strain it, and add to it while
warm, butter, wine, nutmeg, or whatever is thought proper to
flavour it.

If you nrake the gruel of fine oatmeal, sift it, mix it first to
a thick batter with a little cold water, and then put it into ihe
sauce-pan of boiling water. Stir it all the time it is boiling,
lifting the spoon gently up and down, and letting the gruel
fall slo\vly back again into the pan.

PANADA. — Having pared off the crust, boil some slices
of bread in a quart of water for about five minutes. Xnpn
take out the bread, and beat it smooth in a deep dish, mixing
in a little of the water it has boiled in ; and mix it writh a bit
of fresh butter, and sugar and nutmeg to your taste.

35*

414 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Another way is to grate some bread, or to grate or pound a
few crackers. Pour on boiling water, beat it well, and add
sugar and nutmeg.

BARLEY WATER. — Wash clean some barley, (either
pearl or common,) and to two ounces of barley allow a quart
of water. Put it into a sauce-pan, adding, if you choose, an
equal quantity of stoned raisins ; or some lemon-peel and
sugar; or some liquorice root cut up. Let it boil slowly till the
] iquid is reduced one half. Then strain it off, and sweeten it.

GROUND RICE MILK.— Mix in a bowl two table-spoon-
fuls of ground rice, with sufficient milk to make a thin batter.
Then stir it gradually into a pint of milk and boil it with
sugar, lemon-peel or nutmeg.

BEEF TEA. — Cut a pound of the lean of fresh juicy beef
into small thin slices, and sprinkle them with a very little
enlt. Put the meat into a wide-mouthed glass or stone jar
closely corked, and set it in a kettle or pan of water, which
must be made to boil, and kept boiling hard round the jar for
an hour or more. Then take out the jar and strain the essence
of the beef into a bowl. Chicken tea may be made in the
same manner.

MUTTON BROTH.— Cut off all the fat from a loin of
mutton, and to each pound of the le%n allow a quart of water.
Season it with a little salt and some shred parsley, and put in
some large pieces of the crust of bread. Boil it slowly for
two or three hours, skimming it carefully.

Beef, veal, or chicken broth may be made in the same manner.

Vegetables may be added if approved. Also barley or rice.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. 415

MUTTON BROTH MADE QUICKLY.— Cut three chops
from the best part of a neck of mutton, and remove the fat
and skin. Beat the meat on both sides, and slice it thin.
Put into a small sauce-pan with a pint of water, a little salt,
and some crust of bread cut into pieces. You may add a
little parsley, and a small onion sliced thin. Cover the sauce-
pan, and set it over the fire. Boil it fast, skim it, and in
half an hour it should be ready for use.

WINE WHEY.— Boil a pint of milk; and when it rises
to the top of the sauce-pan, pour in a large glass of sherry or
Madeira. It will be the better for adding a glass of currant
wine also. Let it again boil up, and then take the sauce-pan
off the fire, and set it aside to stand for a few minutes, but do

•

not stir it. Then remove the curd, (if it has completely
formed,) and pour the clear whey into a bowl and sweeten it.

•

When wine is considered too heating, the whey may be
made by turning the milk with lemon juice.

RENNET WHEY.— Wash a small bit of rennet about
two inches square, in cold water, to get off the salt. Put it
into a tea-cup and pour on it sufficient lukewarm water to
cover it. Let it stand all night, and in the morning stir the
rennet water into a quart pitcher of warm milk. Cover it,
and set it near the fire till a firm .curd is formed. Pour off the
whey from it, and it will be found an excellent and cooling
drink. The curd may be eaten (though not by a sick person)
with wine, sugar, and nutmeg. The whey should look greenish.

CALF'S FEET BROTH.— Boil two calf's feet in two
quarts of water,, till the liquid is reduced one half, and the
meat has dropped to pieces. Then strain it into a deep dish

416 D IRECTIONS F OR COOKING.

or pan, and set it by to get cold. When it has congealed,
take all the fat carefully off; put a tea-cupful of the jelly into
a sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. When it has nearly
boiled, stir in by degrees the beaten yolk of an egg, and then
take it off immediately. You may add to it a little sugar,
and some grated lemon-peel and nutmeg.

CHICKEN BROTH AND PANADA.— -Cut up a chicken,
season it with a very little salt, and put it into three quarts of
water. Let it simmer slowly till the flesh drops to pieces.
You may make chicken panada or gruel of the same fowl, by
taking out the white meat as soon as it is tender, mincing it
fine, arid then pounding it in a mortar, adding as you pound
'it, sufficient of the chicken water 'to moisten the paste. You
may thin it with water till it becomes liquid enough to drink.
.Then put it into a sauce-pan and boil it gently a few minutes.
Taken in small quantities, it will be found very nutritious.
You may add to it a little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg.

VEGETABLE SOUP.— Take a white onion, a turnip,
a pared potato, and a head of celery, or a large tea-spoonful
of celery seed. Put the vegetables whole into a quart of
water, (adding a little salt,) and boil it slowly till reduced to
a pint. Make a slice of nice toast; lay it in the bottom of a
bowl, and strain the soup over it.

ONION SOUP.— Put half a pound of the best fresh butter
into a stew-pan on the fire, and let it boil till it has done
making a noise ; then have ready twelve large onions peeled
?ind cut small; throw them into the butter, add a little salt,
and stew them a quarter of an hour. Then dredge in a little
flour, and stir the whole very hard ; and in five minutes pour

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. 417

in a quart of boiling water, and some of the upper crust of
bread, cut small. Let the soup boil ten minutes longer, stir-
ring it often ; and after you take it from the fire, stir in the
yolks of two beaten eggs, and serve it up immediately.

In France this soup is considered a fine restorative after any
unusual fatigue. Instead of butter, the onions may be boiled
in veal or chicken broth.

TOAST AND WATER.— Toast some slices of bread very
nicely, without allowing them to burn or blacken. Then put
them into a pitcher, and fill it up with boiling water. Let it
stand till it is quite cold ; then strain it, and put it into a de-
canter. Another way of preparing toast and \vater is to put the
toasted bread into a mug and pour cold water on it. Cover it
closely, and let it infuse for at least an hour. Drink it cold.

APPLE WATER. — Pare and slice a fine juicy apple;
pour boiling water over it, cover it, and let it stand till cold.

TAMARIND WATER.— Put tamarinds into a pitcher or
tumbler till it is one-third full ; then fill it up with cold water,

»

cover it, and let it infuse for a quarter of an hour or more.

Currant jelly or cranberry juice mixed with water makes a
pleasant drink for an invalid.

MOLASSES POSSET.— Put into a sauce-pan a pint of
the best West India molasses ; a tea-spoonful of powdered
white ginger ; and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Set
it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly for half an hour ; stirring
it frequently. Do not let it come to a boil. Then stir in the
juice of two lemons, or two table-spoonfuls of vinegar ; cover
the pan arid let it stand by the fire five minutes longer. This

418 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

is good for a cold. Some of it may be taken warm at once,
and the remainder kept at hand for occasional use.

It is the preparation absurdly called by the common people
a stewed quaker.

Half a pint of strained honey mixed cold with the juice of
a lemon, and a table-spoonful of sweet oil, is another remedy
for a cold ; a tea-spoonful or two to be taken whenever the
cough is troublesome.

FLAX-SEED LEMONADE.— To a large table-spoonful
of flax-seed allow a tumbler and a half of cold water. Boil
them together till the liquid becomes very sticky. Then
strain it hot over a quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar
candy, and an ounce of pulverized gum arabic. Stir it till
quite dissolved, and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon.

This mixture has frequently been found an efficacious
remedy for a cold ; taking a wine-glass of it as often as the
cough is troublesome.

Q£)COA. — Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of good cocoa
(the chocolate nut before it is ground) and one quart of water.
Cover it, and as soon as it has come to a boil, set it on coals
oy the side of the fire, to simmer for an hour or more. Take
it hot with dry toast. Baker's prepared cocoa is excellent.

COCOA SHELLS. — These can be procured at the princi-
pal grocers and confectioners, or at a chocolate manufactory.

•

They are the thin shells that envelope the chocolate kernel,
and are sold at a low price ; a pound contains a very large
quantity. Soak them in water for five or six hours or more,
(it will be better to soak them all night,) and then boil them
in the same water. They should boil two hours. Strain the
liquid when done, and let it be taken warm.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. 419

RAW EGG. — »Break a fresh egg into a saucer, and mix a
little sugar with it ; also, if approved, a small quantity of
wine. Beat the whole to a strong froth. It is considered a
restorative.

SODA WATER.— To forty grains of carbonate of soda,
add thirty grains or tartaric acid in small crystals. Fill a
soda bottle with spring water, put in the mixture, and cork it
instantly \vith a well-fitting cork.

SEIDLITZ POWDERS.— Fold in a white paper one
drachm of Rochelle salts. In a blue paper a mixture of
twenty grains of tartaric acid, and twenty-five grains of car-
bonate of soda. They should all be pulverized very fine.
Put the contents of the white paper into a tumbler not quite
half full of cold water, and stir it till dissolved. Then put the
mixture from the blue paper into another tumbler with the
same quantity of water, and stir that also. When the powders
are dissolved in both tumblers, pour the first into the other,
and it will effervesce immediately. Drink it quickly while
foaming.

BITTERS. — Take two ounces of gentian root, an ounce of
Virginia snake root, an ounce of the yellow paring of orange
peel, and half a drachm of cochineal. Steep these ingredients,
for a week or more, in a quart of Madeira or sherry wine, or
brandy. When they are thoroughly infused, strain and filter
the liquor, and bottle it for use. This is considered a good
tonic, taken in a small cordial glass about noon.

ESSENCE OF PEPPERMINT.— Mix an ounce of oil

•

of peppermint with a pint of alcohol. Then colour it by put-

420 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

ring in some leaves of green mint. Let it stand till the coloui
is a fine green ; then filter it through blotting paper. Drop it
on sugar when you take it.

Essence of pennyroyal, mint, cinnamon, cloves, &c. may
all be prepared in the same manner by mixing a portion of the
essential oil with a little alcohol.

You may obtain liquid camphor by breaking1 up "and dis-
solving a lump in white brandy or spirit of wine.

LAVENDER COMPOUND.— Fill a quart bottle with la-
vender blossoms freshly gathered, and put in loosely ; then pour
in as much of the best brandy as it will contain. Let it stand
a fortnight, and then strain it. Afterwards, mix with it of
powdered cloves, mace, nutmeg and cochineal, a quarter of an
ounce of each ; and cork it up for use in small bottles. When
taken, a little should be dropped on a lump of sugar.

IL.EAD WATER.— Mix two table-spoonfuls of extract of
lead with a bottle of rain or river water. Then add two table-
spoonfuls of brandy, and shake it well.

REMEDY FOR A BURN.*— After immediately applying
sweet oil, scrape the inside of a raw potato, and lay some of
it on the place, securing it with a rag. In a short time put on
fresh potato, and repeat this application very frequently. It
will give immediate ease, and draw out the fire. Of course,
If Ihe burn is bad, it is best to send for a physician.

FOR CHILBLAINS.— Dip the feet every night and morn-
ing in cold water, withdrawing them in a minute or two, and

* These remedies are all very simple ; but the author Imows them
to have been efficacious whenever tried.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK.

drying them by rubbing them very hard with a coarse towel.
To put them immediately into a pail of brine brought from a
pickle tub is another excellent remedy when feet are found to
be frosted.

•

FOR CORNS. — Mix together a little Indian meal and cold
water, till it is about the consistence of thick muah. Then
bind it on the corn by wrapping a small slip of thin rag round
the toe. It will not prevent you from wearing your shoe and
stocking. In two or three hours take it off, and you will find
the corn much softened. Cut off as much of it as is soft with
a penknife or scissors. Then put on a fresh poultice, and
repeat it till the corn is entirely levelled, as it will be after
a few regular applications of the remedy ; which will be found
successful whenever the corn returns. There is no permanent
cure for them.

WARTS. — To remove the hard callous horny warts which
sometimes appear on the hands of children, touch the wart
carefully with a new pen dipped slightly in aqua-fortis. It will
give no pain ; and after repeating it a few times, the wart will
be found so loose as to come off by nibbing it with the finger.

RING-WORMS. — Rub mercurial ointment on the ring-

•

worm previous to going to bed, and do not wash it off till
morning. It will effect a cure if persevered in; sometimes
in less than a week. *

MUSQUITO BITES.— Salt wetted into a sort of paste,
with a little vinegar, and plastered on the bite, will im-
mediately allay the pain; and if not rubbed, no mark will
be seen next day. It is well to keep salt and vinegar always

36

*

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING

in a chamber that is infested with musquitoes. It is also good
for the sting of a wasp or bee ; and for the bite of any veno-
mous animal, if applied immediately. It should be left on till
it becomes dry, and then renewed.

ANTIDOTE FOR LAUDANUM. — When so large a
quantity of laudanum has been swallowed as to produce dan-
gerous effects, the fatal drowsiness has been prevented when
all other remedies have failed, by administering' a cup of the
strongest possible coffee. The patient has revived and reco-
vered, and no ill effects have followed.

GRE E N OINTME NT.— Take two or three large handfula
of the fresh-gathered leaves of the Jamestown weed, (called
Apple Peru in New England,) and pound it in a mortar till
you have extracted the juice. Then put the juice into a tin
sauce-pan, mixed with sufficient lard to make a thick salve.
Stew them together half an hour, and then put the mixture
into gallipots and cover it closely. It is excellent to rub on
chilblains, and other inflammatory external swellings, apply-
ing it several times a day.

TO STOP BLOOD For a prick with a pin, or a slight

cut, nothing will' more effectually stop the bleeding than old
cobwebs compressed into a lump and applied to the wound, or
bound on it with a rag. A scrap of cotton wadding is also
good for stoppftig blood. Or wet the place with laudanum.
After the blood is stopped, cover the cut with a bit of white
or pink court-plaster. The copperas dye in black court-plaster
will sometimes produce inflammation.

423

PERFUMERY, ETC.

COLOGNE WATER.

PROCURE at a -drug-gists, one drachm of oil of lavender,
the same quantity of oil of lemon, of oil of rosemary, and of
oil of cinnamon ; with two drachms of oil of bergamot,
all mixed in the same phial, which should be a new one.
Shake the oils well, and pour them into a pint of spirits of
wine. «Cork the bottle tightly, shake it hard, and it will be
fit for immediate use ; though it improves by keeping. You
may add to the oils, if you choose, ten drops of the tincture
of musk, or ten drops of extract of ambergris.

For very fine cologne wat*, mix together in a new phial
oil of lernon, two drachms ; oil of bergamot, two drachms ; oil
of lavender, two drachms ; oil of cedrat, one drachm ; tincture
of benzoin, three drachms ; neroli, ten drops ; ambergris, ten
drops ; attar of roses, two drops. Pour the mixture into a
pint of spirits ofifvine; cork and shake the bottle and set il
away 'for use. Use only what is called absolute alcohol.

Another receipt for cologne water is to mix with a pint of

•

alcohol, sixty drops or twq large tea-spoonfuls of orange:flower
water, and the same quantity of the essential oils of lemon,
lavender, and bergamot. The alcohol should be inodorous.

LAVENDER WATER.— Mix two ounces of essential oil
of lavender, and two drachms of essence of ambergris, with a
pint of spirits of wine ; cork the bottle, and shake it hard every

•

day for a fortnight. Use absolute alcohol.

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

HUNGARY WATER.— Mix together one ounce of oil of

o

rosemary and two drachms of essence of ambergris ; add them
to a pint of spirits of wine. Shake it daily for a month, and
then transfer it to small bottles.

ROSE VINEGAR.— Fill a stone or china jar with fresh
rose leaves put in loosely. Then pour on them as much of
the best white wine vinegar as the jar will hold. Cover it,

•

and set it in the sun, or in some other warm place for three
weeks. Then strain it through a flannel bag, and bottle it for
use. This vinegar will be found very fine for salads, or for
any nice purposes.

•

THIEVES' VINEGAR.— Take a large handful of lavender
blossoms, and the same quantity of sage, mint, rue, wormwood
and rosemary. Chop and mix them well. Put them into a
jar, with half an ounce of camphor that has been dissolved in
a nttle alcohol, and pour in three quarts of strong clear vine-
gar. Keep the jar for two or three weeks in the hot sun, and
at nio-ht plunge it into a box of heated sand. Afterwards

O 1 O

strain and bottle the liquid, putting into each bottle a clove of
garlic sliced. To have it very clear, after ifrhas been bottled
for a week, you should pour it off carefully from the sediment
and filter it through blotting paper. Then wash the bottles

•

and return the vinegar to them. It should be kept very
tightly corked. It is used for sprinkling about in sick-rooms ;
and also in close damp oppressive weather. Inhaling the
odour from a small bottle will frequently prevent faintness in
a crowd.

It is best to make it in June.

This vinegar is so called from an old tradition, that during
the prevalence of the plague in London the composition was

PERFUMERY, ETC.

invented by four thieves, who found it a preservative froi
contagion ; and were by that means enabled to remain in the
city and exercise their profession to great advantage, after
most of the inhabitants had fled.

OIL OF FLOWERS.— A French process for obtaining
essential oils from flowers or herbs has been described as
follows : — Take carded cotton, or split wadding, and steep it in
some pure Florence oil, such as is quite clear and has no
smell. Then place a layer of this cotton in the bottom of a
deep, china dish, or in an earthen pipkin. Cover it with a
thick layer of fresh rose leaves, or the leaves of sweet pink,
jasmine, wall-flower, tuberose, magnolia blossoms, or and
other odoriferous flower or plant from which you wish to ob-
tain the perfume. Spread over the flower-leaves another layer
of cotton that has been steeped in oil. Afterwards a second
layer of flowers, and repeat them alternately till .the vessel is
quite full. Cover it closely, and let it stand in the sun for a
week. Then throw away the flower-leaves, carefully press out
the oil from the cotton, and put it into a small bottle for use.
The oil will be found to have imbibed the odour of the flowers.

Keep the scented cotton to perfume your clothes-drawers.

BALM OF GILEAD OIL.— Put loosely into a bottle as
many balm of Gilead flowers as will come up to a third part
of its height ; then nearly fill up the bottle with sweet oil,
which should be of the best quality. Let it infuse (shaking
it occasionally) for several days, and it will then be fit for use.
It is considered a good remedy for bruises ot tne skin ; also
for cuts, burns, and scalds that are not very bad, and should
be applied immediately by wetting a soft rag with it ; renewing

it frequently.

36*

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TIP SALVE. — Put into a wide-mouthed bottle four ounces
of the best olive oil, with )ne ounce of the small parts
of alkanet root. Stop up the bottle, and set it in the sun,
(shaking it often,) till you find the liquid of a beautiful crim-
son. Then strain off the oil very clear from the alkanet
root, put it into an earthen pipkin, and add to it an ounce
of white wax, and an ounce and a half of the best mutton
suet, which has been previously clarified, or boiled and
skimmed. Set the mixture on the embers of coals, and melt
it slowly : stirring it well. After it has simmered slowly for
a little while, take it off; and while still hot, mix with it a
few drops of oil of roses, or of oil of neroli, or tincture of
musk.

COLD CREAM. — Cut up a shilling cake of white wax;
put it into a clean sauce-pan with an ounce of oil of sweet
almonds, and two large table-spoonfuls of lard. Boil and stir
it well. When you take it off the fire, beat in an ounce
of orange-flower, or rose-water. Put it up in gallicups with
covers.

•

.

SOFT POMATUM.— Soak half a pound of fresh lard and
a quarter of a pound* of beef marrow in water for two or three
days ; squeezing and pressing it every day, and changing the
water. Afterwards drain off the water, and put the lard and
marrow into a sieve to dry. Then transfer it to a jar, and set
the jar into a pot of boiling water. When the mixture is
melted, put it into a basin, and beat it with two spoonfuls of
brandy. Then drain off the brandy, perfume the pomatum by

PERFUMERY, ETC.

mixing with it any scented essence that you please, and tie
up in gallipots.

COSMETIC PASTE.— Take a quarter of a pound of Cas-
tile soap, and cut it into small pieces. Then put it into a tin
or porcelain sauce-pan, with just water .enough to moisten it
well, and set it on hot coals. Let it simmer till it is entirely
dissolved ; stirring it till it becomes a smooth paste, and thick-
ening it with Indian meal, (which even in a raw state is excel-
lent for the hands.) Then take it from the fire, and when
cool scent it with rose-water, or with any fragrant essence
you please. Beat and stir it hard with a silver spoon,
and when it is thoroughly mixed put it into little pots with
covers.

*

• •

•

ACID SALT. — This is the composition commonly,, but
erroneously called salt of lemon, and is excellent for removing
ink and other stains from the hands, and for taking ink spots

I

out of white clothes. Pound together in a marble mortar an
ounce of salt of sorrel, and an ounce of the best cream of
tartar, mixing them thoroughly. Then put it in little wooden
boxes or covered gallipots, and rub it on your hands when they
are stained, washing them in cold water, and using the acid
salt instead of soap ; a very small quantity will immediately
remove the stain. In applying it to linen or muslin tjiat ia
spotted with ink or fruit juice, hold the stained part tightly
stretched over a cup or bowl of boiling water. Then with
your finger rub on the acid salt till the stain disappears. It
must always be done before the article is washed.

This mixture costs about twenty-five cents, and the above
quantity (if kept dry) will be sufficient for a year or more.

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Ink stains may frequently be taken out of white clothes by
rubbing on (before they go to the wash) some bits of cold
tallow picked from the bottom of a mould candle. Leave the
tallow sticking on in a lump, and when the article comes from
the wash, it will generally be found that the spot has disap-
peared. This experiment is so easy and so generally success-
ful that it is always worth trying. When it fails, it is in
consequence of some peculiarity in the composition of the ink.

SWEET JARS.— Take a china jar, and put into it three
handfuls of fresh damask rose-leaves ; three of sweet pinks,
three of wall-flowers, and stock gilly-flowers, and equal pro-
portions of any other fragrant flowers that you can procure.
Place them in layers ; strewing powdered orris-root thickly
between each layer.

You may fill another jar with equal quantities of lavender,
knotted marjoram, rosemary, lemon-thyme, balm of Gilead,
lemon-peel, and smaller quantities of laurel leaves and mint;
and some sliced orris-root. You may mix with the herbs,
(which must all be chopped,) powdered cloves, cinnamon, and
nutmeg ; strewing powdered orris-root between the layers.

Flowers, herbs, and spice may all be mixed in the same
jnr ; adding always some orris root. Every thing that is put
in should be perfectly free from damp.

The jar should be kept closely covered, except when the
cover is occasionally removed for fye purpose of diffusing the
scent through the room.

SCENTED BAGS.— Take a quarter .of a pound of cori-
ander seeds, a quarter of a pound of orris root, a quarter of a
pound of aromatic calamus, a quarter of a pound of damask
rose leaves, two ounces of lavender blossoms, half an ounce of

PERFUMERY, ETC.

mace, half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of
cloves, and two drachms of musk-powder. Beat them all
separately in a mortar, and then mix them .well together
Make small silk or satin bags ; fill each with a portion of
the mixture, and sew them closely all round. Lay them
among your clothes in the drawers.

VIOLET PERFUME.— Drop twelve drops of genuine oil
of rhodium on a lump of loaf-sugar. Then pound the sugar
in a marble mortar with two ounces of orris root powder.
This will afford an excellent imitation of the scent of violets.
If you add more oil of rhodium, it will produce a rose perfume.

•

Sew up the powder in little silk bags, or keep it ia a tight
box.

DURABLE INK.— Take, when empty, one of the little

bottles that has contained indelible ink, such as is sold in cases,
and wash and rinse it clean. Put into it two inches of lunar
caustic ; fill it up with soft water and cork it tightly.
This is the marking ink.

Prepare the larger bottle that has contained the liquid used
for the first wash; by making it quite clean. Take a large
tearspoonful of salt of tartar, and a lump of gum arabic the
size of a hickory nut. Put them into the wash bottle, and fill
it up with clear rain water. Cork both bottles tightly, and
set them three days in the sun. Always put them in the sun
before using it.

Linen canndt be marked well with durable ink unless the
weather is clear and dry. Dip a camel's hair pencil in the
large bottle that contains the gum-liquid, and wash over with
it a small space on a corner of the linen, about large enough to
contain the name*. Dry it in the sun, and let it alone

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

nil next day. Then take a very good pen, and with the ink
from the smallest bottle, write the name you intend, on the
place that has been prepared by the first liquid. This also
must be dried in the sun. See that the bottles are always
well corKed, and keep them in a covered box.
After the linen is dried, iron it before you write on it.

ANOTHER DURABLE INK.— For the marking liquid-
rub together in a small mortar five scruples of lunar caustic
with one drachm of gum arabic, one scruple of sap-green and
one "ounce of rain water. Keep the bottle three days in the sun.

For wetting the linen — mix together a quarter of an ounce
of salt of soda, a heaped table-spoonful of powdered gum
arabic, and two ounces of hot water.

TO KEEP PEARL-ASH.— Take three ounces of pearl-
ash, and put it into a clean black bottle with a pint and a half
(not more) of soft water. The proportion is an ounce of pearl-
ash to half a pint of water. Cork it very tightly, shake it, and
it will be fit for use as soon as all the pearl-ash is dissolved.
A table-spoonful of this liquid is equal to a small tea-spoonful
of pearl-ash in the lump or powder. Keeping it ready dis-
solved 'will be found very convenient.

ALMOND PASTE.— Blanch half a pound of shelled
sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound of bitter ones, and
beat them in a mortar to a smooth paste — adding by degrees a
Jill of rose or orange-flower water. Then beat in, gradually,
hnlf a pound of clear strained honey. When the whole is well
incorporated, put it into gaUipots, pouring on the top of each
some orange-flower or rose-water. Keep it closely covered.

This is a celebrated cosmetic for the hand's.

431

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.

MINCED OYSTERS.— Take fifty fine large oysters, and
mince them raw. Chop also four or five small pickled cucum-
bers, and a bunch of parsley. Grate about two tea-cupfiils
of stale bread-crumbs, and beat up the yolks of four eggs.
Mix the 'whole together in a thick batter, seasoning it with
cayenne and powdered mace ; and with a little salt if the
oysters are fresh. Have ready a pound of lard, and melt in
the frying-pan enough of it to fry the oysters well. If the
lard is in too small a quantity they will be flat and tough.
When the lard is boiling hot in the pan, put in about a table-
spoonful at a time of the oyster-mixture, and fry it in the form
of small fritters ; turning them so as to brown on both sides.

•

Serve them. up hot, and eat them with small bread rolls.

STEWED BLACK FISH.— Flour a deep dish, and lay
in the bottom a piece of butter rolled in flour. Then sprinkle
it with a mixture of parsley, sweet marjoram, and green onion ;
all chopped fine. Take your black fish and rub it inside and
outside with a mixture of cayenne, salt, and powdered cloves
and mace. Place skewers across the dish, and lay the fish
upon them. Then pour in a little wine, and sufficient water
to stew the fish. Set the dish in a moderate oven, and let it
cook slowly for an hour.

Shad or rock fish may be dressed in the same manner.

FRIED SMELTS.— These little fish are considered ex-
tremely fine. Before they are cooked, cut off the heads and

432 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

tails. Sprinkle the smelts with flour, and have ready in a fry-
ing pan over the fire plenty of fresh lard or butter; When it
boils, put in the fish and fry them.

BROILED SWEETBREADS.— Split open and skewer
the sweetbreads ; season them with pepper and salt, and with
powdered mace. Broil them on a gridiron till thoroughly
done. WThile they are broiling, prepare some melted butter
seasoned with mace and a little white wine, or mushroom
catchup ; and have ready some toast with the crust cut off.
Lay the toast in the bottom, of a dish ; place the sweetbreads
upon it, and pour over them the drawn butter.

PICKLED EGGS.— Boil twelve eggs quite hard, and lay
ihem in cold water; having peeled off the shells. Then put
them whole into a stone jar, with a quarter of an ounce of
whole mace, and the same quantity of cloves ; a sliced nut-
meg ; a table-spoonful of whole pepper ; a small bit of ginger ;
and a peach leaf. Fill up the jar with boiling vinegar ; cover
it closely that the eggs may cool slowly. When they are
cold, tie up the jar; covering the cork with leather. After it
has stood three days pour off the pickle, boil it up again, and
return it boiling hot to the eggs and spice. They will be fit
for use in a fortnight.

GUMBO SOUP.— Take four pounds of the lean of a fr<5sh
round of beef and cut the meat into small pieces, avoiding
carefully all the fat. Season the meat with a little pepper and
gait, and put it on to boil with three quarts and a pint of water
^not more.) Boil it slowly and skim it well. When no more
scum rises, put in half a peck of ochras, peeled and sliced,

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 433

and half a peck of tomatas cut in quarters. Boil it slowly
till the ochras and tomatas are entirely dissolved, and the
meat all to rags. Then strain it through a cullender, and send
it to table with slices of dry toast. This soup cannot be
made in less than seven or eight hours. If you dine at two
you must put on the meat to hoil at six or seven in the morn-
ing. It should he as thick as a jelly.

SHREWSBURY CAKES.— Rub three quarters of a pound
of butter into two pounds of sifted flour, and mix in half a
pound of powdered sugar, and half a pound of currants, washed
and dried. Wet it to a stiff paste with rich milk. Roll it out,
and cut it into cakes. Lay them on buttered baking sheeis,
and put them into a moderate oven.

RICE FLUMMERY.— To two quarts of milk allow half
a pound of ground rice. Take out one pint of the milk, and
mix the rice gradually with it into a batter ; making it quite
smooth and free from lumps. Put the three pints of milk into
a skillet, (with a bunch of peach leaves or a few peach-kernels,1}
and let it come to a boil. Then while it is still boiling, stir
in by degrees the rice batter, taking care not to have it lumpy ;
add sugar, mace, and rose brandy to your taste; or you may
flavour it with the juice of a large lemon. When it has
boiled sufficiently, and is quite thick, strain it, and put it
into a mould to congeal. Make a rich boiled custard, (fla-
voured in the same manner,) and send it to table in a pitcher,
to eat with the flummery. Both should be cold. If you
mould it in tea-cups, turn it out on a deep dish, and pour the

custard round it.

. 37

434 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

APPLE BUTTER WITHOUT CIDER.— Mix together
ten gallons of water, and ten gallons of the best West In-

*

dia molasses. Put it into a large kettle over a good fire;
let it come to a hard boil, and skim it as long as any scum
continues to rise. Then take out half the liquid, and put it
into a tub. Have ready eight bushels of fine sound apples,

»

pared, cored and quartered. Throw them gradually into
the liquid that is still boiling on the fire. Let it continue to
boil hard, and as it thickens, add by degrees the other half of
the molasses and water, (that which has been put into the tub.)
Stir it frequently to prevent its scorching, and to make it of
equal consistence throughout. Boil it ten or twelve hours,
continuing to stir it. At night take it out of the kettle, and
set it in tubs to cool ; covering it carefully. Wash out the
kettle and wipe it very dry.

Next morning boil the apple butter six or eight hours lon-
ger ; it should boil eighteen hours altogether. Then an houi
before you take it finally out, stir in a pound of mixed spice ;
cloves, mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, all finely powdered.
When entirely done, put up the apple butter in stone or
earthen jars. It will keep a year or more.

It can, of course, be made in a smaller quantity than that
given in the above receipt; and also at any time in the winter;
fresh cider not being an ingredient, as in the most usual way
of making apple butter.

AN APPLE POT PIE.— Make a paste, allowing a pound
of butter, or of chopped suet to two pounds and a quarter of
flour. Have ready a sufficient quantity of fine juicy acid
apples, pared, cored, and sliced. Mix with them brown suoar

O

enough to sweeten them, a few cloves, and some slips of
lemon-peel. Butter the sides of an iron pot, and line them

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 435

with paste. Then put in the apples, interspersing1 them with
thin squares of paste, and add a very little water. Cover the
whole with a thick lid of paste, cutting a slit in the centre for
the water to bubble up, and let it boil two hours. When
done, serve it up on a large dish, and eat it with butter and

sugar.

PUDDING CATCHUP.— Mix together half a pint of
noyau ; a pint of sherry or other white wine; the yellow peel
of four lemons, pared thin ; and half an ounce of mace. Put
the whole into a large bottle, and let it stand for two or three
weeks. Then strain it, and add half a pint of capillaire or
strong sugar syrup ; or of Curacoa. Bottle it, and it will keep
two or three years. It may be used for various sweet dishes,
but chiefly for pudding-sauce mixed with melted butter.

CURACOA.— Grate as much fresh orange-peel as will
make two ounces when done ; the peel of fresh shaddock will
be still better. Mix it with a pint of orange juice. Put it
into a quart of the strongest and clearest rectified spirit;
shake it, let it'infuse for a fortnight, and strain it. Then
make a syrup by dissolving a pound of the best loaf-sugar
in a pint of cold water, adding to it the beaten white of an
esr°r, and boilino- and skimming it till the scum ceases to

O O ' O O

rise. Mix the syrup with the strained liquor. Let it stand
(ill next day, and then filter it through white blotting paper
fastened to the bottom of a sieve. Curacoa is a great im-
provement to punch ; also a table-spoonful of it in a tumble*
of water rna'kes a very refreshing summer drink.

PATENT YEAST.— Boil half a pound of fresh hops in
four quarts of water, till the liquid is reduced to two quarts.

436 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

Strain it, and mix in sufficient wheat ilcur to make a thin
batter; adding half a pint of strong fresh yeast, (brewer's
yeast, if it can be procured.) When it is done fermenting, pour
it into a pan, and stir in sufficient Indian meal to make a mode-
rately stiff dough. Cover it, and set it in a warm place to
vise. When it has become very light, roll it out into a thick
<,heet, and cut it into little cakes. Spread them out on a dish,
and let them dry gradually in a cool place where there is no
sun. Turn them five or six times a day while drying ; and
when they are quite dry, put them into paper bags, and keep
them in a jar or box closely covered, in a place that is not
in the least damp. .

When you want the yeast for use, dissolve in a little warm
water one or more of the cakes, (in proportion to the quantity
of bread you intend making,) and when it is quite dissolved,
stir it hard, thicken it with a little flour, cover it, and place it
near the fire to rise before you use it. Then mix it with the
flour in the usual manner of preparing bread.

This is a very convenient way of preserving yeast through
the summer, or of conveying it to a distance.

TO DRY HERBS.— By drying herbs with artificial heal
p.s quickly as possible, you preserve their scent and flavour
much better than when they are dried slowly by exposing
thsm to the sun and air; a process by which a large portion
of their strength evaporates. All sorts of herbs are in the
fip-eatest perfection just before they begin to flower. Gather
them on a dry day, and place them in an OT en, .which must

•

not be hot enough to discolour, scorch, or burn them. When
they are quite dry, take them out, and replace them with
others. Pick the leaves from the stems, (which may be
thrown away.) and put them into bottles or jars ; cork them

MISCELL A NT. OUS RECEIPTS. 437

rightly, and keep them in a dry place. Those that are used
•n cookery should be kept in a kitchen closet.

PEACH KERNELS. — When peaches are in season, have
n a convenient place an old basket or something of the sort,
•n which all the peach stones can be saved ; they are too use-
ful to he thrown away. Then have them carefully cracked,
so as to extract the kernels whole if possible. Spread them
out on a dish for one day. Then put them into a box or jar,
and keep them to use as bitter almonds ; for which they are
ccn excellent substitute in flavouring custards, creams und
»-.akcs. Plum stones are worth saving in the same manner.

LEMON-PEEL. — Never throw away the rind of a lemon.
Keep a wide-mouthed bottle half full of brandy, and put into
it (cut in pieces) all the lemon-rind that you do not imme-
diately want. As the white part of the rind is of no use, it
will be best to pare off the yellow very thin, and put that alone
into the brandy, which will thus imbibe a very fine lemon
flavour, and may be used for many nice purposes.

TO KEEP TOM ATAS.— Take fine ripe tomatas, and
wipe them dry, taking care not to break the" skin. Put them
into a stone jar with cold vinegar, adding a small thin musim
bag filled with mace, whole cloves, and whole peppers. Then
cork the jar tightly with a cork that has been dipped in melted
rosin, and put it away in a dry place. Tomatas pickled in
this manner keep perfectly well and retain their colour. For
this purpose use the small round button tomatas.

Morella cherries may be pickled thus, in cold vinegar.

438 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS,

FRENCH GREEN PEA SOUP.— This soup is mado
without meat. Put into a soup-pot four quarts of shelled green
ueas, two large onions sliced, a handful of leaves of sweet mar-
loram shred from the stalks, or a handful of sweet basil ; or a
mixed handful of both — also, if you like it, a handful of green
mint. Add four quarts of water, and boil the whole slowly till
all the peas are entirely to pieces. Then take off the pot, and
mash the peas well against its sides to extract from them all
their flavour. Afterward strain off the liquid into a clean pot,
and add to it a tea-cup full of the juice* of spinach, which you
"must prepare, while the soup is boiling, by pounding some spi-
nach in a mortar. This will give the soup a fine green colour.
Then put in a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter rolled
whole in flour ; and add a pint and a half more of shelled young
peas. If you wish the soup very thick, you may allow a quart
of the additional peas. Season it with a very little salt and
cayenne ; put it again over the fire, and boil it till the last peas
are quite soft, but not till they go to pieces.

Have ready in a tureen two or three slices of toasted bread
cut into small squares or dice, and pour the soup on it.

This soup, if properly made, will be found excellent, not-
withstanding the absence of meat. It is convenient for fas*
days ; and in the country, where vegetables can be obtained
from the garden, the expense will be very trifling.

What is left may be warmed for the next day.

<?IBLET SOUP.— -Take three pounds of shin of beef or of
neck of mutton. Cut off the meat and break the bones. Ther

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 439

put the meat with the bones into a soup-pot, wilH a tea-spoon-
ful -of salt, and three quarts of water. Add a bunch of sweet
marjoram, one of sweet basil, and a quarter of an ounce of black
pepper-corns, all tied in a thin muslin rag ; a sliced onion, and
six or eight turnips and carrots, cut small. Let the whole boil
slowly for two or three hours, skimming it well. In the mean
time, have ready two sets of goose-giblets, or four of duck.
They must be scalded, and Well washed in warm water. Cut
off the bills, and split the heads ; and cut the necks and giz-
zards into mouthful s. Having taken tfie meat and bones out
of the soup, put in the giblets, with a head of celery chopped.
Boil it slowly an hour and a half, or more, taking care to skim
it. Make a thickening- of an ounce and a half of butter, and a

Q

large table-spoonful of f^our, mixed together with a little of the
soup. Then stir it into the pot, adding a large table-spoonful
of mushroom catchup, and some small force-meatballs, or little
dumplings. Boil the soup half an hour longer. Then send it
to table with the giblets in the tureen.

GUMBO. — Take an equal quantity of young tender ochras,
and of ripe tomatas, (for instance, a quarter of a peck of each.)
Chop the ochras fine, and scald and peel the tomatas. Put
them into a stew-pan without any water. Add a lump of but-
ter, and a very little salt and pepper ; and, if you choose, an
onion minced fine. Let it stew steadily for an hour. Then
strain it, and send it to table as soup in a tureen. It should
be like a jelly, and is a favourite New Orleans dish. Eat
dry toast with it. This gumbo is for fast days.

HAM OMELET.— Take six ounces of cold boiled ham,
and mince it very fine, adding a little pepper. Beat separately
the whites and yolks of six eggs, and then mix them together;

440 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

add to them gradually the minced ham. Beat the whole very
hard, and do not let it stand a moment after it is thoroughly
mixed. Have ready some boiling lard in a frying-pan, and
put in the omelet immediately. Fry it about ten minutes or a
quarter of an hour. When done, put it on a hot dish, trim off'
the edges, and fold it over in a half moon. Send it to table
hot, and covered. It is eaten at breakfast.

If you wish a soft omelet, (not to fold over,) fry it a shorter
time, and serve it in a deep dish, to be helped with a spoon.

A similar omelet may be made of the lean of a cold smoked
tongue.

BATTER PUDDING.— Take a quart of milk, and stir
into it gradually eight large table-spoonfuls of flour, carefully
pressing out all the lumps with the back of the spoon. Beat
eight eggs very light, and add them by degrees to the milk
and flour. Then stir the whole very well together.

Dip your pudding-cloth into boiling water, and then dredge
it with flour. Pour in the pudding, and tie it tightly,* leaving
room for it to swell. Put it into a pot full of boiling water,
and boil it hard for two hours. Keep it in the pot till it is
time to send it to table. Serve it up with wine-sauce, butter
and sugar, or molasses and cold butter.

PEACH MANGOES.— Take free-stone peaches of the
largest size, (when they are full grown, but not quite ripe,)
and lay them in salt and water for two days, covered with a
board to keep them down. Then take them out, wipe them
dry, cut them open, and extract the stones. Mix together, to
your taste, minced garlic, scraped horse-radish, bruised mus-
tard seed, and cloves ; and a little ginger-root soaked in water
to soften, and then sliced. Fill the cavity of the peaches with
1 "i mixture. Then tie them round with pack-thread, and

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 441

them into a stone jar J:ill it is two-thirds full. Strew among
them some whole cloves, broken cinnamon, and a little cochi-
neal. Season some cold vinegar, (allowing to each quart a Jill
of fresh made mustard, and a little ginger, and nutmeg,) and
having mixed this pickle well, fill up the jar with it.

BROILED TOM AT AS.— Take large ripe tomatas ; wipe
them, and split them in half. Broil them on a gridiron till
brown, turning them when half done. Have ready in a dish
some butter seasoned with a little pepper. When the tomatas
are well broiled, put them into the dish, and press each a little
with the back of a spoon, so that the juice may run into the
butter and mix with it. This is to make the gravy. Send
them to table hot.

Tomatas are very good sliced, and fried in bulter.

PRESERVED TOMATAS.— Take large fine tomatas,

(not too ripe,) and scald them to make the skins come oiT

«
easily.' Weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound of tne

best white sugar, and the grated peel of half a lemon. Put
all together into a preserving kettle, and having boiled it
slowly for three hours, (skimming it carefully,) add the juice
of the lemons, and boil it an hour longer. Then put the whole
into jars, and when cool cover and tie them up closely. This
is a cheap and excellent sweetmeat; but the lemon must on
DO account be omitted. It may be improved by boiling a little
ginger with the other ingredients.

TOM ATA HONEY.— To each pound of tomalas, allow
the grated peel of a lemon and six fresh peach-leaves. Boil
them slowly till they are all to pieces; then squeeze and strain
them through a bag. To each pint of liquid allow a pound of

442 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

loaf- sugar, and the jniee of one lemon. Boil them together
half an hour, or till they become a thick jelly. Then put it
into glasses, and lay double tissue paper closely over the top.
It will be scarcely distinguishable from real honey.

PRESERVED CUCUMBERS.— Your cucumbers should
be well shaped, and all of the same size. Spread the bottom
and sides of a preserving kettle with a thick layer of vine
leaves. Then put in the cucumbers with a little alum broken
small. Cover them thickly with vine leaves, and then with a
dish. Fill up the kettle with water, and let them hang over a
slow fire till next morning, but do not allow the water to boil.
Next day, take them out, cool them, and repeat the process
with fresh vine leaves, till the cucumbers are a fine green.
When cold drain them, cut a small piece out of the flat side,
and extract the seeds. Wine the cucumbers in a dry cloth,
and season the inside with a mixture of bruised mace and
grated lemon-peel. Tie on with a pack-thread the bit that
was cut out.

Weigh them, and to every pound of cucumbers allow a
pound of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle,
a half pint of water to each pound, and the beaten white of
an egg to every two pounds. Boil and skim the sugar till
quite clear, adding sliced ginger and lemon parings to your
taste. When cool, pour it over the cucumbers, and let them
lie in it two days, keeping them covered with a plate, and a
weight on it to press it down. Then boil up the syrup again,
adding one-half as much sugar, &c. as you had at first; and at
ihe last the juice and grated peel of two lemons for every six
cucumbers. The lemon must boil in the syrup but ten mi-
nutes. Then strain the syrup all over the cucumbers, and
put them up in glass jars.

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 443

If they are not quite clear, boil them in a third syrup.
Small green melons may be preserved in this manner.

APPLE RICE PUDDING.— Wash half a pint of rice,
and boil it till soft and dry. Pare, core, and cut up six large
juicy apples, and stew them in as little water as possible.
When they are quite tender, take them out, and mash them
with six table-spoonfuls of brown sirfrar. When the apples
and rice are both cold, mix them together. Have ready five
eggs beaten very lighty and add them gradually to the otfrer
ingredients, with five or six drops of essence of lemon, and
a grated nutmeg. Or you may substitute for the essence, the
grated peel and the juice of one ' ^ leuion. Beat the whole
very hard after it is all mixed , tic it^Jg^pHpa cloth, (leaving
but a very small space for it to5^taU^and stopping up the
tying place with a lumptof flouf^moiillaHflf to paste with water.

• "^^W *^r

Put it into a pot -of bo\rmr waBk and boil it fast for half an

•K ^^:

hour. Send it to table jBfc. ant* eat it with sweetened cream,
or with beaten butter arra sugar.

BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS.— Take large, fine, juicy
apples, and pare and core them, leaving them as whole as pos-
sible. Put them 'into a kettle with sufficient water to cover
them, and let them parboil a quarter of an hour. Then take

•

them out, and drain them on a sieve. Prepare a paste in
trie proportion of a pound of butter to two pounds of flour,
as for plain pies. Roll it out into a sheet, and cut it into
equal portions according to your number of apples. Place an
apple on each, and fill up the hole from whence the core was
extracted with brown sugar moistened with lemon-juice, or
with any sort of marmalade. Then cover the apple with tho
paste, closing it neatly. Place the dumplings side by side in

414 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

buttered square pans, (not so as to touch,) and bake them of a
light brown. Serve them warm or cool, and eat them vvith
cream sauce.

They will be found very good.

INDIAN LOAF CAKE.— Mix a tea-cup full of powdered
white sugar with a quart of rich milk, and cut up in the milk
two ounces of butter, adding a salt-spoonful of salt. Put this
mixture into a covered pan or skillet, and set it on coals till it
is scalding hot. Then take it off, and scald with it as much
yellow Indian meal (previously .sifted) as will make it of the
consistence of thick boiled mush. Beat the whole very hard
for a quarter of an hour, and then set it away to cool.

"While it is cooling, beat three eggs very light, and stir
them gradually into the mixture when it is about as warm as
new milk. Add a tea-cup full of good strong yeast, and beat
the whole another quarter of an hour — for much of the good-
ness of this cake depends on its being long and well beaten.
Then have ready a turban mould or earthen pan with a pipe in
the centre, (to diffuse the heat through the middle of the cake.)
The pan must be very well buttered, as Indian meal is apt to
stick. Put in the mixture, cover it, and set it in a warm place
to rise. It should be light in about four hours. Then bake it
two hours in a moderate oven. When done, turn it out with
the broad surface downwards, and send it to table hot and
whole. Cut it into slices, and eat it with butter.

This will oe found an excellent cake. If wanted for break-
fast, mix it, and set it to rise the night before. If properly
made, standing all night will not injure it. Like all Indian
cakes, (of which this is one of the best,) it should be eaten
warm.

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS 445

It will be much improved by adding to the mixture, a salt-
spoon of pearl-ash, or sal-aratus, dissolved in a little water.

PLAIN CIDER CAKE.— Sift into a large pan a pound
and a half of flour, and rub into it half a pound of butter. Mix
in three-quarters of a pound of powdered white sugar, and
melt a small tea-spoonful of sal-aratus or pearl-ash in a pint
of the best cider. Pour the cider into the other ingredients
while it is foaming, and stir the whole very hard. Have ready
a buttered square pan, put in the mixture, and set it imme-
diately in a rather brisk oven. Bake it an hour or more, ac-
cording to its thickness. T&L is a tea cake, and should be
eaten fresh. Cut it into squares, split and butter them.

TENNESSEE MUFFINS.— Sift three pints of yellow
Indian meal, and put one-half into a pan and scald it. Add
a good piece of butter. Beat six eggs, whites and yolks sepa-
rately. The yolks must be beaten till they become very thick
and smooth, and the whites till they are a stiff froth that stands
alone. When the scalded meal is cold, mix it into a batter
with the beaten yolk of egg, the remainder of the meal, a salt-
spoonful of salt, and, if necessary, a little water. The batter
must be quite thick. At the last, stir in, lightly and slowly,
the beaten white of egg. Grease your muffin rings, and set
them in an oven of the proper heat ; put in the batter imme-
diately, ^ standing will injure it.

Send them to table hot ; pull them open, and eat them with
butter.

HOE CAKE. — Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff
froth, and sift into a pan a quart of wheat flour, adding a salt-
spoon of salt. Ma'ke a hole in the middle, and mix in the

38

446 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

white of egg so as to form a thick batter, and then add two
table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Cover it, and let it
stand all night. In the morning, take a hoe-iron (such as are
made purposely for cakes) and prop it before the fire till it is
well heated. Then flour a tea-saucer, and rilling it with bat-
ter, shake it about, and clap it to the hoe, (which must be pre-
viously greased,) and the batter will adhere till it is baked.
Repeat this with each cake. Keep them hot, and eat them
with butter.

MILK TOAST.— Boil a pint of rich milk, and then take it
off, and stir into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mixed
with a small table-spoonful of flour. Then let it again come to
aboil. Have ready two deep'plates with half a dozen slices of
toast in each. Pour the milk over them hot, and keep them
covered till they go to table. Milk toast is generally eaten at
breakfast.

POTATO YEAST.— Pare half a dozen middle-sized po-
tatoes, and boil them in a quart of soft water, mixed with a
handful of hops, till quite soft. Then mash the potatoes
smooth, not leaving in a single lump. Mix with them a hand-
ful of wheat flour. Set a sieve over the pan in which you
have the flour and mashed potatoes, and strain into them the
hop-water in which they were boiled. Then stir the mixture
very hard, and afterwards pass it through a cullender to clear
it of lumps. Let it staad till it is nearly cold. Then stir in
four -table-spoonfuls of strong yeast, and let it stand to ferment.
When the foam has sunk down in the middle, (which will not
be for several hours,) it is done working. Then put it into a
stone jug and cork it. Set it in a cool place.

This yeast will be found extremely good for raising home-
made bread.

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.

Yeast when it becomes sour may be made fit to use by stir-
ring into it a little sal-eratus, or pearl-ash, allowing- a small
tea-spoonful to a pint of yeast. This will- remove the acidity,
and improve the bread in lightness. The pearl-ash must bo
previously melted in a little lukewarm water.

CREAM CHEESE.— The cheese so called, of which
numbers are brought to Philadelphia market, is not made
entirely of cream, but of milk warm from the cow, (and there-
fore unskimmed,) mixed with cream of last night. To a small
tub of fresh morning's milk, add the cream skimmed from an
equal quantity of last evening's milk. Mix the cream and the
new milk together, and .warm them to about blood-heat or
100 degrees of the thermometer. Have ready a cup of water
in which has-been soaking, since last night, a piece of rennet,
(the salt wiped off,) about the length and breadth of two
fingers. Stir the rennet-water into the vessel of mixed milk
and cream, and set it in a warm place till the curd has com-
pletely formed. Then, with a knife, cut the curd into squares.
Next, take a large, thin, straining-cloth, and press it down on
the curd so as to make the whej rise up through it. As the
whey rises, dip it off with a saucer or skimming dish. When
the whey is nearly all out, put the curd into the cloth, and
squeeze and press it with your hands till it becomes dry.
Next, crumble the curd very fine with yoiu^ hands, and then
salt it to your taste. Then wash the straining-cloth clean, and
lay it in the cheese-hoop (a bottomless vessel, about the size
of a dinner-plate, perforated with small gimlet-holes) put the
crumbled curd into the cloth, and then fold the rest of the
cloth closely over it. The cheese-hoop should be set on a
clean wooden bench or table. Place on it its round wooden
cover, so as to fit exactly ; and lay on the top two bricks or a
heavy stone. After it has stood six hours in the hoop or
mould, turn it, and let it stand six hours longer.

-MS DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

When you take out the cheese, rub it all over with a little
fresh butter. Set it in a dark, dry place, turning it everyday,
and in four or five days it will be fit for use. When once cut,
it should be eaten immediately, if the weather is warm. But'
while uncut, it may keep a week in a cold place, provided it
is turned several times a-day

ALMOND BREAD. — Blanch, and pound in a mortar, half
a pound of shelled sweet almonds till they are a smooth paste,
adding rose-water as you pound them. They should be done
the day before they are wanted. Prepare a pound of loaf-sugar
finely powdered, a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, (mace, nutmeg,
and cinnamon,) and three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour.
Take fourteen eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks.
Leave out seven of the whites, and beat the otKer seven to a
stiff froth. Beat the yolks till very thick and smooth, and
then beat the sugar gradually into them, adding the spice.
Next stir in the white of egg, then the flour, and lastly the
almonds. Add the juice of a large lemon.

Put the mixture into a square tin pan, (well buttered,) or
into a copper or tin turban-mould, and set it immediately in a
brisk oven. Ice it when cool. It is best if eaten fresh.

You may add a few bitter almonds to the sweet ones.

CUSTARD 0&KES.— Mix together a pound of sifted
flour and a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Divide
into four a pound of fresh butter ; mix one-fourth of it with the
flour, and make it into a dough. Then roll it out, and put in
the three remaining divisions of the butter at three more roll-
ings. Set the paste in a cool place till the custard is ready.

For the custard, beat very light the yolk only of eight eggs,
and then stir them gradually into a pint of rich cream, adding
three ounces of powdered white sugar, a grated nutmeg, and

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 449

ratafia, peach-water, or essence of lemon, to your tasfe. Pat
the mixture into a deep dish ; set it in an iron baking pan or a
Dutch oven half full of boiling water, and bake it a quarter of
an hour. Then put it to cool.

In the mean time roll out the paste into a thin sheet; cut it
into little round cakes about the size of a dollar, and bake them
on flat tins. When they are done, spread some of the cakes
thickly with the custard, and lay others on the top of them,
making them fit closely in the manner of lids.

You may bake the paste in patty-pans like shells, and put
in the custard after they come out of the oven. If the custard
is baked in the paste, it will be clammy and heavy at the
bottom.

You may flavour the custard with vanilla.

HONEY GINGER CAKE.— Rub together a pound of
sifted flour and three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter. Mo
in, a tea-cup of fine brown sugar, two large table-spoonfuls of
strong ginger, and (if you like them) two table-spoonfuls of
carraway seeds. Having beaten five eggs, add them to the
mixture alternately with a pint of strained honey ; stirring in
towards the last a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, that has
been melted in a very little vingar.

Having beaten or stirred the mixture long enough to make
it perfectly light, transfer it to a square iron or block-tin pan,
(which must be well buttered,) put it into a moderate oven,
and bake it an hour or more, in proportion to its thickness.

When cool, cut it into squares. It is best if eaten fresh, but
it will keep very well a week.

ROCK CAKE. — Blanch three-quarters of a pound of shelled

sweet almonds, and bruise them fine in a mortar, but not to a

'38*

450 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

smooth paste as for maccaroons. Add, as you pound them, a
little rose-water. Beat to a stiff froth the whites of four eggs,
and then beat in gradually a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Add the juice of a lemon. Then mix in the pounded
almonds. Flour your hands, and make the mixture into little
cones or pointed cakes. Spread sheets of damp, thin, white
paper on buttered sheets of tin, and put the rock cakes on it,
rather far apart. Sprinkle each with powdered loaf-sugar.
Bake them of a pale brown, in a brisk oven. They will be
done in a few minutes.

When cold, take them off the papers.

FROZEN CUSTARD.— Slice a vanilla bean, and boil it
slowly in half a pint of milk, till all the strength is extracted
and the milk highly flavoured with the vanilla. Then strain
it, and set it aside. Mix a quart of cream and a pint of milk,
or, if you cannot procure cream, take three pints of rich milk,
and put them into a skillet or sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals,
and boil it. When it has come to a boil, mix a table-spoonful
of flour in three table-spoonfuls of milk, and stir it into the
boiling liquid. Afterwards add six eggs, (which have been

*

beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of milk,) pouring them
slowly into the mixture. Take care to stir it all the time it is
boiling. Five minutes after, stir in gradually half a pound of
powdered loaf-sugar, and then the decoction of vanilla. Hav-
ing stirred it hard a few moments, take it off the fire, and set
it to cool. WThen quite cold, put it into a mould and freeze it,
as you would ice-cream, for which it frequently passes.

You may flavour it with the juice of two large lemons,
stirred in just before you take it from the fire, or with a quarter
of a pound of shelled bitter almonds, blanched, pounded in

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 451

a mortar with rose-water, and then boiled in half a pint of
milk, till the flavour is extracted. Then use the milk only.

CHERRY CORDIAL.— Take a bushel of fine ripe cher-
ries, either red or black, or mixed ; stone them, put them into
a clean wooden vessel, and mash them with a mallet or beetle.
Then boil them about ten minutes, and strain the juice. To
each quart of juice allow a quart of water, a pound of sugar,
and a quart of brandy. Boil in the water (before you mix it
with the juice) two ounces of cloves, and four ounces of cinna-
mon ; then strain out the spice. Put the mixture into a stone
jug1, or a demijohn, and cork it tightly. Bottle it in two or
three months.

COMMON ICE CREAM.— Split into pieces a vanilla
bean, and boil it in a very little milk till the flavour is well
extracted ; then strain it. Mix two table-spoonfuls of arrow-
root powder, or the same quantity of fine powdered starch,
with just sufficient cold milk to make it a thin paste ; rubbing1
it till quite smooth. Mix together a pint of cream and a pint of
rich milk; and afterwards stir in the preparation of arrow-root,
and the milk in which the vanilla has been boiled. Beat it very
hard, stir in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, beating it very
hard again. Then strain it, and put it into a freezer placed in
a tub that has a hole in the bottom to let out the water ; and sur-
round the freezer on all sides with ice broken finely, and mixed
with coarse salt. Beat the cream hard for half an hour. Then
let it rest; occasionally taking oif the cover, and scraping
down with a long spoon the cream that sticks to the sides.
When it is well frozen, transfer it to a mould; surround
it with fresh salt and ice, and then freeze it over again.

452 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

If yea wish to flavour it with lemon instead of vanilla, take a
large lump of the sugar before you powder it, and rub it on
the outside of a large lemon till the yellow is all rubbed off
upon the sugar. Then, when the sugar is all powdered, mix
with it the juice of two large lemons.

For strawberry ice cream, mix with the powdered sugar the
juice of a quart of ripe strawberries squeezed through a linen
bag.

PINK CHAMPAGNE JELLY.— Beat up the white of
an egg to a stiff froth, and then stir it hard into three wine-
glasses of filtered water. Put twelve ounces of the best dou-
ble-refined loaf-sugar (powdered fine and sifted) into a skillet
lined with porcelain. Pour on it the white of egg and water,
and stir it till dissolved. Then add twelve grains of cochineal
powder. Set it over a moderate fire, and boil it and skim it
till the scum ceases to rise. Then strain it through a very fine
sieve. Have ready an ounce and a half of isinglass that has
been boiled in a little water till quite dissolved. Strain it,
and while the boiled sugar is lukewarm mix it with the isin-
glass, adding a pint of pink champagne and the juice of a large
lemon. Run it through a linen bag into a mould. When it
has congealed so as to be quite firm, wrap a \vet cloth round
the outside of the mould, and turn out the jelly into a glass
dish ; or serve it oroken up, in jelly glasses, or glass cups.

Jelly may be made in a similar manner of Madeira, maras-
quin, or noyau.

A CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— Boil in half a pint of milk a
split vanilla bean, till all the flavour is extracted. Then strain
the milk, and when it is cold stir into it the yolks of four
beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 453

Simmer this custard five minutes over hot coals, but do not
let it come to a boil. Then set it away to cool. Having
boiled an ounce of the best Russian isinglass in a pint of water
till it is entirely dissolved and the water reduced to one-l.alf,
strain it into the custard, stir it hard, and set it aside to get
quite cold.

Whip to a stiff froth a quart of rich cream, taking it off in
spoonfuls as you do it, and putting it to drain on an inverted
sieve. When the custard is quite cold, (but not yet set or
congealing,) stir the whipt cream gradually into it.

Take a circular mould of the shape of a drum, the sides
being straight. Cut to fit it two round slices from the top and
bottom of an almond sponge-cake ; glaze them with white of
egg, and lay one on at the bottom of the mould, reserving the
other for the top. You can get the mould at a tinner's.

Having thus covered the bottom, line the sides of the mould
with more of the sponge-cake, cut into long squares and glazed
all over with white of egg. They must be placed so as to
stand up all round— each wrapping a little over the other so
as to leave not the smallest vacancy between ; and they must
be cut exactly the height of the mould, and trimmed evenly.
Then fill up with the custard and cream when it is just begin-
ning to congeal ; and cover the top with the other round slico
of cake.

Set the mould in a tub of pounded ice mixed with coarse
salt ; and let it remain forty minutes, or near an hour. Then
turn out the Charlotte on a china dish. Have ready an icing,
made in the usual manner of beaten white of egg and powdered
sugar, flavoured "with essence of lemon. Spread it smoothly
over the top of the Charlotte, which when the icing is dry will
be ready to serve. They are introduced at large parties, and
it is usual to have two or four of them.

454 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

A CHARLOTTE POLONAISE.— Boil over a slow fire
a pint and a half of cream. While it is boiling have ready six
yolks of eggs, beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of powdered
arrow-root, or fine flour. Stir this gradually into the boiling
cream, taking care to have it perfectly smooth and free from
lumps. Ten minutes will suffice for the egg and cream to boil
together. Then divide the mixture by putting it into two
separate sauce-pans. •

Then mix with it, in one of the pans, six ounces of choco-
late scraped fine, two ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and a
quarter of a pound of maccaroons, broken up. When it has come
to a hard boil, take it off, stir it well, pour it into a bowl, and
set it away to cool.

Have ready, for the other sauce-pan of cream and egg, a
dozen bitter almonds, and four ounces of shelled sweet almonds
or pistachio nuts, all blanched and pounded in a mortar with
rose-water to a smdbth paste, and mixed with an ounce of
citron also pounded. Add four ounces of powdered sugar ; and
to colour it green, two large spoonfuls of spinach juice that
has been strained through a sieve. Stir this mixture into the
other half of the cream, and let it come to a boil. Then put it
aside to cool.

Cut a large sponge-cake into slices half an inch thick.
Spread one slice thickly with the chocolate cream, and cover
another slice with the almond cream. Do this alternately
(piling them evenly on a china dish) till all the ingredients
are used up. You may arrange it in the original form of the
sponge-cake before it was cut, or in a pyramid. Have ready
the whites of the six eggs whipped to a stiff froth, with which
have been gradually mixed six ounces of powdered sugar, and
twelve drops of oil of lemon. With a spoon heap this merin-
gue (as the French call it) all over the pile of cake, &c.. and

ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 45?

then sift powdered sugar over it. Set it in a very slow oven
till the outside becomes a light brown colour.

Serve it up cold, ornamented according to your -taste.

If you find the chocolate cream too thin, add more macca-
roons. If the almond cream is too thin, mix in more pounded
citron. If either of the mixtures is too thick, dilute it with
more cream.

This is superior to a Charlotte Russe.

APPLE COMPOTE.— Take large ripe pippin apples.
Pare, core, and weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound
of fine loaf-sugar and two lemons. Parboil the apples, and
then set them out to cool. Pare off very nicely with a pen-
knife the yellow rind of the lemons, taking care not to break
it ; and then with scissors trim the edge's to an even width all
along. Put the lemon-rind to boil in a little sauce-pan by it-
self, till it becomes tender, and then set it to cool. Allow
half a pint of water to each pound of sugar; and when it is
melted, set it on the fire in the preserving kettle, put in the
apples, and boil them slowly till they are clear and tender all
through, but not till they break; skimming the syrup care-
fully. After you have taken out the apples, add the lemon-
juice, put in the lemon-peel, and boil it till quite transparent.
When the whole is cold, put the apples with the syrup into
glass dishes, and dispose the wreaths of lemon-peel fancifully

about them.

*

SOUR MILK. — To recover milk that has turned sour, stir
in powdered carbonate of magnesia, of which allow a heaped
tea-spoonful to each quart of milk. 9

APPENDIX,

CONTAINING NEW RECEIPTS.

ORANGE CAKE. — Take four ripe oranges, and roll them
under your hand on the table. Break up a pound of the best
loaf-sugar, and on some of the pieces rub off the yellow rind
of the oranges. Then cut the oranges, and squeeze their juice
through a strainer. Powder the sugar, and mix the orange-
juice with it; reserving a little of the juice to flavour the
icing. Wash, and squeeze in a pan of cold water, a pound
of the best//-es^ butter, till you have extracted whatever milk
and salt may have been in it, as they will impede the lightness
of the cake. Cut up the butter in the pan of sugar and orange,
and stir it hard till perfectly light, white, and creamy. Sift
into a pan fourteen ounces (two ounces less than a pound) of
fine flour. Beat ten eggs till they are as thick and smooth as
a fine boiled custard. Then stir them, by degrees, into the
butter and sugar, alternately with the flour, a little of each at
a time. Continue to beat the whole very hard for some time
after all the ingredients are in ; as this cake requires a great
deal of beating. Have ready a large square, shallow pan,
well buttered. Put in the mixture, and set it immediately into
a brisk oven. It must be thoroughly baked, otherwise it will
be heavy, streaked, and unfit to eat. The time of baking
must of course be in proportion to its thickness, but it requires
a much longer time than pound-cake, queen-cake, or Spanish
buns. WJjien it shrinks from the sides of the pan, and looks
as if done, try it by sticking in the middle of it, down to the

Dottom, a twig from a corn-broom, or something similar. If
456

NEW RECEIPTS. 457

the twig comes out dry and clean, the cake is done ; but if the
twig remains moist and clammy, let the cake remain longer in
the oven. When it is quite done, make an icing of beaten
white of egg, and powdered loaf-sugar, mixed with a spoonful
or more of orange juice. Dredge the~ cake with flour, then
wipe off the flour and spread on the icing thick and evenly,
scoring it in large squares. Before you put it into baskets,
cut the cake into squares about the usual size of a Spanish
bun. It should be eaten fresh, being best the day it is baked.

This cake will be found very fine. It is, of course, best
when oranges are ripe and in perfection, as the orange flavour
should be very high. We recommend that at the first trial of
this receipt, the batter shall be baked in small tins, such as
are used for queen-cake, or Naples biscuit, as there will thus
be less risk of its being well baked than if done in a larger
pan. When they seem to be done, one of the little cakes can
be taken out and broken open, and if more baking is found
necessary, the others can thus be continued longer in the oven.
After some experience, an orange cake may be baked, like a
pound cake, in a large tin pan with a tube in the centre ; or in
a turban mould, and handsomely iced and ornamented when
done. A fine orange cake will, when cut, perfume the table.

Lemon cake may be made and baked in a similar manner,
adding also a little lemon juice to the icing.

CITRON CAKE Cut a pound of candied citron into

slips. Spread it on a large dish. Sprinkle it thickly with
sifted flour till it is entirely white with it, tumbling the citron
aoout with your hands till every piece is well covered with
flour. Then sift into a pan fourteen ounces (two ounces
less than a pound) of flour. Beat together in a deep pan, till

perfectly light, a pound of fresh butter cut up in a pound of

39

458 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

powdered loaf-sugar. Then add, by degrees, a glass of wine,
a glass of brandy, and a table-spoonful of powdered mace and
cinnamon mixed, and a powdered nutmeg. Have ready twelve
eo-o-s beaten in a shallow pan till very smooth and thick. Stir

3 O

the beaten egg into the beaten butter and sugar, alternately
with the flour and citron, a little at a tim'e of each. Then, at
the last, stir the whole very hard. Butter a large tin pan (one
with a tube in the centre will be best), put in the mixture, set
it directly in a moderate oven, and bake it at least four hours.
Put it on an inverted sieve to cool.

When the cake is cool, ice and ornament it.

Common pound cakes are now very much out of use. They
are considered old-fashioned.

BOSTON CREAM CAKES — From a quart of rich milk
or cream take half a pint, and put it into a small saucepan,
with a vanilla bean, and a stick of the best Ceylon cinnamon,
broken in pieces. Cover the saucepan closely, and let it boil
till the milk is highly flavoured with the vanilla and cinnamon.
Then strain it, take out the vanilla bean, wipe it, and put it
away, as it will do for the same purpose a second time. Mix
the flavoured milk with the other pint and a half, and let it get
quite cold. Beat very light the yolks only of twelve eggs, and
stir them into the milk alternately with a quarter of a pound,
or more, of powdered white sugar. Put this custard mixture
into a tin pan, set it in a Dutch oven or something similar,
pour round the pan some boiling water, enough to reach half-
way up its sides, and bake the custard ten minutes. Instead
of vanilla, you may flavour the custard by boiling, in the half
pint of milk, a handful of bitter almonds or peach kernels,
blanched and broken in half, and stirring into the custard when
it has done baking, but is still hot, a wine glass of rose water.

NE \V 11 I r K I PTS. 459

As rose water loses most of its taste by cooking, it is best,
when practicable, to add it after the article is taken from the fire.
In the mean time let another mixture be prepared as follows.
Sift half a pound of fine flour, cut up half a pound of fresh
butter in a pint of rich milk, and set it on a stove or near the
fire till the butter is soft but not melted. Then stir it weJl and
take it off. Beat eight whole eggs very light, and stir them
gradually into the milk and butter, in turn with the flour.
Take care to have this batter very smooth, and quite free from
lumps. Having beaten and stirred it thoroughly, put it in equal
portions into deep pattypans with plain unscolloped sides, filling
them but little more than half, so as to allow space for the cakes
to rise in baking. The pattypans must be previously buttered.
When the mixture is in, sprinkle powdered loaf-sugar over the
top of each. Set them immediately into a brisk oven, and
bake them about a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes.
They must be well browned. When done, take them out, and
open in the side of each (while quite hot) a slit or cut, large
enough to admit a portion of the custard that has been made
for them. Put in with a spoon as much of this custard as
will ampty fill the cavity or hollow in the middle of each cake.
Then close the slit nicely, by pinching and smoothing it with
your thumb and finger, and set the cakes to cool. They should
be eaten fresh. In summer they will not keep till next day
unless they are set on ice. If properly made, they will be
found delicious.

CONNECTICUT LOAF CAKE.— For this cake you
must prepare, the day before, three pounds of sifted flour, two
pounds of powdered white sugar, four nutmegs, and a quarter
of an ounce of mace powdered fine; two pounds of stoned
raisins, two pounds of currants, picked, washed, and dried (or

400 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

yea may substitute for the currants two additional pounds of
raisins), and half a pound of citron cut large. The raisins,
currants, and citron must be spread on a large dish, and dredged
thickly over with flour, which must be mixed well among them
with your hands, so as to coat them all completely. This is
To prevent their sinking in a clod to the bottom while the cake
is baking, and should always be done with whatever fruit is
used in either cakes or puddings. Put the spice into half a
pint of white wine, cover it, and let it infuse all night. Next
morning, have ready two pounds of the best fresh butter, cut
small; six eggs well beaten; a pint of warm new milk; and half
a pint of fresh strong yeast, procured^ if possible, from a
brewer or baker. Rub half the butter into the flour, adding

* o

half the sugar; wet it with the milk, and add half of the
eggs, and the wine, and the yeast. Stir and mix it thoroughly.
Then cover it and set it to rise. It should be perfectly light
by evening. Then add the remainder of the butter and the
sugar, and the rest of the ego-. Mix it well, and set it
again to rise till early next morning. Then add gradually the
fruit, setting it again to rise for two or three hours. When it
is perfectly light for the last time, butter a large deep pan, and
put in the mixture. The oven must first be made very hot, and
then allowed to cool down so as to bake rather slowly. If
too hot, it will scorch and crust the cake on the outside, so as
to prevent the heat from penetrating any farther, and the inside
will then be soddened and heavy. A common-sized loaf-cake
may remsiri in the oven from three to four hours.

CLOVE CAKES. — Rub a pound of fresh butter (cut up)
into three pounds of sifted flour; adding, by degrees, a pound
of fine brown sugar, half an ounce of cloves ground or pow-
dered, and sufficient West India molasses to wet the whole

N E T7 R E C I*. I P T S. 461

into a stiff dough, mixing in at the last a small tea-spoon-
ful of sal-aiTitus dissolved in tepid water. Roll the dough
out into a sheet of paste, and cut out the cakes with a tin
stamp, or with the edge of a tumbler. Put them in buttered
pans, and bake them a quarter of an hour or more. They will
continue good a long time, if kept dry, and are excellent to
take to sea.

SOFT GINGERBREAD.— Beat to a cream half a .pound
of fresh butter cut up in a deep pan, among half a pound of
brown sugar, and at the beginning- set near the fire to soften
it a little, but not to melt it. Add two large table-spoonfuls of
ginger, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a tea-spoon-
ful of powdered cloves. Then stir into it, alternately, a pint
of West India molasses, and three pints of sifted flour, and six
well-beaten eggs. Lastly, dissolve a small tea-spoonful of
pearl-ash in a pint of sour milk, and stir it, while foaming,
into the mixture. Put it immediately into shallow square tin
pans, well buttered, and place it in an oven not too hot, or it
will burn the outside, and leave the inside raw and heavy,
This cake requires long beating, and much baking.

FINE COOKIES.— Sift into a pan five large tea-cupsfal
of flour, and rub into it one tea-cup of fresh butter; add two
cups of powdered white sugar, and a handful or two of carraway
seeds; wet it with an eo-o- well beaten, and a little rose-water.

' DO f

Add, at the last, a small tea-spoonful of sal-aratus dissolved
in a very little lukewarm water. Knead the whole well.
Roll it out into a sheet. Cut it into cakes with a stamp or a
tumbler edge; put them into a buttered pan, and bake them
about fifteen minutes. Instead of carraway seeds, you may

use currants, picked, washed, and dried.

39*

462 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

INDIAN CUP CAKES.— Sift a pint and a half of yellow
Indian meal, and mix it with half a pint wheat flour. Beat
two eggs very light, and then stir them gradually into the
meal, in turn with almost a quart of sour milk. If you have
no sour milk from the preceding day, you can turn some sweet
milk sour by setting it in the sun. Lastly, dissolve a tea-
spoonful of sal-aratus, or a very small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash
in a little of the sour milk reserved for the purpose. The bat-
ter must be as thick as that for a pound-cake. More Indian
meal may be necessary. Stir it at the last into the mixture,
which, while foaming, must be put into buttered cups, or little
tin pans, and set immediately into an oven, brisk but not too
hot. When well baked, turn out the cakes, and send them
warm to the breakfast-table. Eat them with butter.

BRAN BATTER-CAKES.— Mix a quart of bran with a
handful of wheat flour, and a level tea-spoonful of salt. Pour
in sufficient milk-warm water to make a thick batter. Add
two table-spoonfuls of brewer's yeast, or three, if home-made ;
and stir it very hard. Cover it, and set it by the fire to rise.
Half an hour before you begin to bake, you may add a salt-
spoonful of soda, melted in a little warm water. Bake it
like buckwheat cakes, on a griddle.

APPLE BREAD PUDDING— Pare, core, and slice thin,
a dozen or more fine juicy pippins, or bell-flowers, strewing
among them some bits of the yellow rind of a large lemon
that has been pared very thin, and squeezing over them the
juice of the lemon. Or substitute a tea-spoonful of essence
of lemon. Cover the bottom of a large deep dish with a thick

0

layer of the sliced apples. Strew it thickly with brown sugar

NEW RECEIPTS. 463

Then scatter on a few very small bits of the best fresh butter.
Next strew over it a thin layer of grated bread-crumbs. After-
wards another thick layer of apple, followed by sugar, butter,
and bread-crumbs as before. Continue this till you get the
dish full, finishing with a thin layer of crumbs. Put the dish
into a moderate oven, and bake the pudding well, ascertaining
that the apples are thoroughly done and as soft as marmalade.
Send it to table either hot or cold, and eat it with cream-sauce,
or with butter, sugar, and nutmeg, stirred to a cream. This
pudding is in some places called by the homely names of Brown
Betty, or Pan Dowdy. It will require far less baking, if the
apples are previously stewed soft, and afterwards mixed with
the sugar and lemon. Then put it into the dish, in layers,
interpersed (as above) with bits of butter, and layers of grated
crumbs. It will be much improved by the addition of a grated
nutmeg, mixed with the apples.

APPLE CUSTARDS.— Take fine juicy apples, sufficient
when stewed to fill two soup plates. Pare, core, and slice
them. Add a lump of butter, about the size^of a walnut, and
the grated peel of a lemon ; and stew them with as little water
as can possibly keep them from burning. They must be
stewed till they are quite soft all through, but not broken.
Then mash them well with the back of a spoon, and make
them very sweet with fine brown sugar. Squeeze in the juice
of a lemon, or add a wine-glass of rose-water. When
the apple is quite cold, add a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful
of brandy, and a table-spoonful of cream, mixed with a table-
spoonful of finely-grated bread crumbs, and the well-beaten
yolk of an egg. Stir the whole very hard. Cover the bottom
and sides of two soup plates with thin puff-paste, and put a
thick paste round t.hf> edges, notching it handsomely. Then

464 DIRECTION'S FOR COOKING.

fill up with the mixture, and bake it about half an hoar. Or
you may bake it in cups, without any paste. If for cups, pre-
pare double the above quantity of apple and other ingredients.
Peach custards may be made in a similar manner, of fine
ripe free-stone peaches, pared, stoned, quartered, and stewed
without any water. Omit the lemon, and add two eggs.

NEW ENGLAND PUMPKIN PIE.— Take a quart of
stewed pumpkin. Put it into a sieve, and press and strain it
as dry as possible. Then set it away to get cold. Beat eight
eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the' pumpkin, a
little at a time, in turn with a quart of rich cream and a pound
of sugar. Mix together a quarter of an ounce of powdered
mace, two powdered nutmegs, and a table-spoonful of ground
ginger, and stir them into the other ingredients. When all is
mixed, stir the whole very hard. Cover the bottom of your
pie-dishes with a thin paste, and fill them nearly to the top
with the mixture. Cut out narrow stripes of paste with your
jagging-iron, and lay them across the tops of your pies. Bake
them from an hour to an hour and a quarter. Send them to
table cool. They are best the day they are baked. Some per-
sons prefer them without any paste beneath, the dishes being
filled entirely with the mixture ; and if they have broad edges,
a border of thick puff-paste may be laid along the edge, and
handsomely notched. We think this the best way; as paste
that is baked under any mixture that has milk and eo-o-s in it,

* DO '

is liable, in consequence of the moisture, to become clammy
and heavy, and is therefore unwholesome.

WEST INDIA COCOA-NUT PUDDING.— Cut up and
skin a large ripe cocoa-nut, and grate it fine. Then put the
grated cocoa-nut into a clean cloth, and squeeze and press it

N E W RECEIPT S. 405

till all the moi.-ture is taken out. Spread it on a broad tin pan,
and stand it up to dry, either in the sun or before the fire, stir-
ring it up occasionally with your hands. When quite dry
weiiih a pound of it. Beat very light sixteen eggs (omitting
the whites of four) and then beat into them, gradually, a pound
of powdered loaf-sugar, and a wine glass of rose-water. Then
give the whole a hard stirring. Put the mixture into deep
dishes, and lay puff-paste round their edges handsomely notched.
Bake them about half an hour. Send them to table cold with
white sugar grated over the top.

YANKEE TEA CAKES Cut up half a pound of fresh

butter in a pint of milk, and warm it a little, so as to soften but
not melt the butter. Add. gradually, half a pound of powdered
•white sugar, in turn with three well-beaten eggs, and a pound
of sifted flour, finishino- with half a nil of strono- fresh yeast.

O «J v

Set the mixture in a warm place to rise. It will most probably
be five hours before it is light enough to bake, and it should
therefore be made in the forenoon. When it has risen high,
and the top is covered with bubbles, butter some cups, and
bake it in them about twenty minutes. When done, turn the
cakes out on large plates; send them to table hot, and split
and butter them. To open these cakes, pull them apart with
your fingers.

GELATINE JELLY.— Gelatine is used as a substitute
for calves feet in making jelly. It is prepared in light yellow-
ish sheets, and can be purchased at the druggists'. The chief
advantage in gelatine is, that by keeping it in the house, you can
always have it ready for use, and the jelly made with it may
be commenced and finished the same day : while, if you use
calves' feet, they must be boiled the day before. Also, you

DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

may chance to live in a place where calves' feet cannot at all
times be procured, and then a box of gelatine, always at hand,
may be found very convenient. The cost is about the same,
whether the jelly is made of calves' feet or of gelatine. That
of calves' feet will generally be the firmest, and \vill keep two
or three days in a cold place or when set on ice ; that of gela-
tine, if not used on the day that it is made, will sometimes
ilfelt and become liquid again. Its greatest recommendations
are convenience and expedition. The following receipt for
gelatine jelly will be found a very good one, if exactly fol-
lowed.

Soak two ounces of gelatine, for twent)T-five minutes, in as
much cold water as will cover it. Then take it out, lay it in
another vessel, pour on it two quarts of boiling water, and let
it thoroughly dissolve. Afterwards set it to cool. Having
rolled them under your hand on a table, pare off very thin the
yellow rind of four lemons, and cut it into small bits. Break
up, into little pieces, two large sticks of the best cinnamon
(that of Ceylon is far preferable to any other) and a pound of
the best double refined loaf-sugar. Mix together in a large
bowl, the sugar, the lemon-rind, and the cinnamon; adding the
juice of the lemons, the beaten white of an egg, and a pint of
Malaga or any other good white wine. Add to these ingre-
dients the dissolved gelatine, when it is cool but not yet cold.
Mix the whole very well, put it into a porcelain kettle, or a
very clean bell-metal one, and boil it fifteen minutes. Then
pour it warm into a white flannel jelly-bag, and let it drip into
a large glass bowl. On no account squeeze or press the bag,
or the jelly will be dull and cloudy. After it has congealed in
the bowl, set it on ice; but the sooner it goes to table the
better. A warm damp day is unfavourable for making any
sort of jelly.

NEW RECEIPT S. 467

You may flavour it with four or five oranges instead of le-
mons.

Jf you are averse to using wine in the jelly, substitute a
pound of the best raisins, stemmed (but not seeded or stoned)
and boiled whole with the other ingredients.

BISCUIT ICE CREAM— This is the biscuit glace so po-
pular in France. Take some pieces of broken loaf-sugar, and
rub off on them the yellow rind of four lemons, or oranges.
Then pulverize the sugar, and mix it with half a pound of
loaf-sugar already powdered, and moistened with the juice of
the lemons. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them gradually
into a quart of cream, in turn with the sugar and lemon. Have
ready some stale Naples biscuit or square sponge cakes grated
very fine, and stir them gradually into the mixture, in sufficient
quantity to make a thick batter, which must be beaten till
perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Put it into a porcelain
stew-pan, and give it one boil up, stirring it nearly all the time.
Then put it into a freezer, and freeze it in the usual manner.
Afterwards transfer it to a pyramid mould, and freeze it a
second time for half an hour or more. When quite frozen,
take it out of the mould upon a glass or china dish.

Instead of lemon or orange, you may flavour it with a va-
nilla bean boiled slowly in half a pint of cream, and then
strained out, before you mix it with the other cream.

MACCAROON ICE CREAM.— From a quart of cream
take half a pint, and boil in it slowly two ounces of bitter
almonds, or peach kernels, previously blanched and broken up.
Then, when it is highly flavoured with the almonds, strain the
half pint and mix it with the remaining pint and a half of
cream, to which add, by degrees, six eggs previously beaten

468 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

till very light, and half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Crumble a sufficient quantity of the best almond maccaroons
to make a thick batter when stirred gradually into the mixture
of cream, sugar, and eggs, which must be beaten till perfectly
smooth. Give it a boil, stirring it well while boiling. Then
put it into a freezer, and freeze it as usual. Afterward trans-
fer it to a pyramid mould and freeze it again. It will be found
very fine if properly made.

ORANGE WATER ICE. — To four pounds of the best
double refined loaf-sugar, allow a quart of water, and four
dozen large ripe deep-coloured oranges. Having rolled the
oranges on the table under your hand to increase the quantity
of juice, wash and wipe them dry. Take pieces of the sugar
and rub them on half the oranges till you have taken off on
the sugar their yellow rind or zest. Then put that sugar with
the remainder into a porcelain kettle, and pour on it a quart of
water into which has been beaten the white of one eo-o-.

o ~

When the sugar is quite melted, set the kettle on the fire, and
boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise, and the orange-
zest is entirely dissolved. Then stir in gradually the juice of
the oranges, and when all is in, take it directly off the fire, lest
the flavour of the juice should be weakened by boiling. Let
it cool, stirring it well. Lastly, put it into a freezer sur-
rounded by pounded ice and salt, and stir it hard for the first
ten minutes. Take off the lid and repeat the stirring every
five minutes till the freezing is accomplished. Turn it out
into a glass bowl ; having first washed off the ice and salt
from the outside of the freezer, lest some of it should chance
to get into the inside. Serve it on saucers.

After it has congealed in the freezer, you may transfer it to
a pyramid or pine-apple mould, and freeze it a second time,

NEW RECEIPTS. 469

which will require half an hour or more. Of course, while in
the mould, it must remain undisturbed. Before you turn it out,
hold round the outside of the mould a cloth dipped in cold water.

LEMON-WATER ICE— May be made in the above man-
ner, only that you must allow an additional pound of sugar,
and use the zest or yellow rind of all the lemons.

STRAWBERRY-WATER ICE.— To each pound of loaf-
suo-ar allow half a pint of water, and three quarts of ripe
strawberries. Having broken up the sugar, put it into a pre-
servino--kettle, and pour on it the water in the above proportion.
To make the syrup very clear, you may allow to each pint of
water half the white of an egg beaten into the water. When
the sugar has melted, and been well stirred in the water, put
the kettle over the fire, and boil and skim it till the scum ceases
to rise. Have ready the strawberry juice, having put the
strawberries into a linen bag, and squeezed the liquid into a
deep pan. As soon as you take the kettle of syrup from the
fire, stir into it the strawberry juice. Then put it into a freezer,
surrounded with ice broken small, and mixed with salt; twirl
it round by the handles for ten minutes, and then let it freeze,
frequently stirring it hard. When done, turn it out into a glass
bowl, and serve it on saucers. Or you may give it a second
freezing in a pyramid mould.

RASPBERRY-WATER ICE— Is made exactly as above.
You may heighten the colour of these ices by adding to the
juice a little cochineal, which it is very convenient to keep in
the house ready prepared. To do this, mix together an ounce
of cochineal (pounded to .a fine powder), a quarter of an ounce

of powdered alum, and a quarter of an ounce of cream of tartar,

40

470 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

adding a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash, and three ounces of pow
dered loaf-sugar. Boil them all together for ten minutes o>
more. Then put the mixture into a clean new bottle, cork it
tightly, and stir a little of it into any liquid you wish to colour
of a fine red. With this you may give a red colour to calves'
feet jelly, or blancmange, or to icing for cakes.

GRAPE-WATER ICE— Is made as above, first mash-
ing the grapes with a wooden beetle, before you put them into
the bag for squeezing the juice. Currants «£or water ice must
also be mashed before squeezing in the bag.

PINE-APPLE WATER ICE.— Having pared and sliced
a sufficient number of very ripe pine-apples, cut the slices into
small bits, put them into a deep dish or a tureen, sprinkle
among them powdered loaf-sugar, cover them and let them set
several hours in a cool place. Then have ready a syrup made
of loaf-sugar, dissolved in a little water (allowing to every
two pounds of sugar a pint of water beaten with half the white
of an egg), and boiled and skimmed till quite clear. Get as
much pine-apple juice as you can, by squeezing through a
sieve the bits of pine-apple (after they have stood some hours
in the tureen), measure it, and to each pint of the boiled syrup
allow a pint of juice. Mix them together while the syrup is
warm from the fire. Then put it into a freezer, and proceed in
the usual manner.

PEACH-WATER ICE.— Take soft, ripe, juicy, freestone
peaches, pare them, stone them, and cut them in pieces. Put
the pieces into a linen bag and squeeze the juice into a deep
pan. Crack the stones, scald and blanch the kernels, break
them in half, and, having made a syrup as in the above re-

NEW RKCKIl'TS. 471

»

ieipts, allowing half a pint of water to each pound of loaN
sugar, boil the kernels in the syrup, taking them out when the
syrup is done. This infusion of the kernels will add greatly
to the flavour. Then measure the peach-juice, allowing a pint
of it to each pint of syrup, and mix them together while the
syrup is hot. Then freeze it.

A FINE CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— For this purpose you
must have a circular or drum-shaped tin mould, or a pair ol
more of them. The mould should be without a bottom. They
can be procured at a tin-store, and are useful for other pur-
poses. The day before you want the Charlotte msse, make a stiiF
plain jelly by boiling a set of calves' feet (four) in a gallon of
water till the meat drops from the bone. It should boil slowly
till the liquid is reduced to less than two quarts. Then, having
strained it, measure into a pan three pints of the liquid, cover it,
and set it away to congeal. Next morning, it should be a solid
cake, from which you must carefully scrape off all the fat and
sediment. Boil a vanilla bean in half a pint of rnilk, till the
milk is very highly flavoured with the vanilla. Then strain it.
and set it away to get cold. Take three pints of rich cream,
put it into a shallow pan, set it on ice, and beat it to a stiff
froth with rods or a whisk ; or churn it to a foam with a little
tin churn. Next, add to the cream the vanilla milk, and beat
both together. Melt the jelly in a pan over the fire. Beat
very light the yolks of six eggs, and then stir gradually into
the beaten egg half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Next,
add, by degrees, the melted jelly to the egg and sugar, stirring
very hard. Keep the vessel sitting on ice, and continue stir-
ring till the mixture is firm enough to retain the mark of the
spoon. Then stir in the cream as quickly as possible. Have
ready the tin mould, lined with the long thin cakes called

472 D I R F. r T T O N S FOR C O 0 K I X O.

•

Qbdy-fingers, or finger biscuits, brushed over with beaten white
of egg1. They must be laid closely across each other on the
bottom of a dish, and be so arranged as to stand up in a circle
round the sides of the mould, each wrapping a little over the
other. Then carefully put in the mixture, and cover the top
with lady-fingers laid closely across. After the whole is nicely
arranged, set it on ice till wanted. When you wish to turn
out the Charlotte russe, (which must be done with great care,)
wrap round the outside of the mould a coarse towel dipped in
cold water, and lift it off from the charlotte.

Instead of lady-fingers you may use sponge-cake for the
shape or form. Cut two circular slices from a large sponge-
cake, one for the bottom, and one for the top of the charlotte,
and for the wall or sides arrange tall, square slices of the cake,
.ill of them standing up so as to wrap a little over each other.
All the cake must be glazed with beaten white of e^o-.

° C3O

A still easier way is to make an almond sponge-cake, and.
bake it in a drum-shaped mould or pan, or an oval one with
straight or upright sides. When cold, cut off the top in one
thin slice, and carefully cut out or hollow the middle, so as to
make a space to contain the mixture of the charlotte, leaving
bottom and sides standing. They must be left thin. Then,
when the mixture is ready and quite cold, fill up the cake with
it. It must be set on a china or glass dish, and kept on ice till
wanted. It will require no turning out; and there is no risk
of its breaking. The pieces that come out of the almond-cake
when it is hollowed to receive the charlotte mixture, can be
used for some other purpose, for instance, to mix with other
cakes in a basket, or to dissolve at the bottom of a trifle.

COFFEE CUSTARD.— For this purpose the coffee should
bo cold drawn. Take a large half pint of fresh ground coffee,

NEW RECEIPTS. 473

•

which should be of the best quality, and roasted that day.
Put it into a grecque or French coffee pot, such as are made
with strainers inside, and have a second cover below the lid.
Lay the coffee on the upper strainer, pour on it half a pint of
cold water, and press it down with the inner cover. Put on
the outer or top-lid of the coffee-pot, and stop the mouth of the
spout with a roll or wad of soft white paper, or with a closely-
fitting- cork, to prevent any of the aroma escaping.

"When the coffee liquid has all filtered down through both
the upper and lower strainers, pour it off into a bowl, and
return it to the upper strainer to filter down a second time. It
will then be beautifully clear, and very strong, notwithstand-
ing that it has been made with cold water.

Have ready a custard-mixture made of eight well-beaten
eggs, stirred gradually into a pint of cold rich milk or cream;
and three or four table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf-sugar. Stir
the cold liquid coffee gradually into it. Put it into cups. Set
them in an iron oven or bake-pan with boiling water round
them, reaching rather more than half-way up the sides of the
cups. Bake them ten minutes or more. Then set them on
ice, and send them to table quite cold.

PRESERVED LIMES, OR SMALL LEMONS.— Take

limes, or small lemons that are quite ripe, and all about
the same size. With a sharp penknife scoop a hole at the
stalk end of each, and loosen the pulp all around the inside,
taking care not to break or cut through the rind. In doing
this, hold the lime over a bowl, and having extracted all the
pulp and juice, (saving them in the bowl,) boil the empty limes
half an hour or more in alum-water, till the rinds look clear
and nearly transparent. Then drain them, and lay them for

several hours in cold water, changing the water nearly every

40*

474 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

hour. At night, having changed the water once more, let the
limes remain in it till next day, by which time all taste of the
alum should be removed; but if it is not, give them aboil in
some weak ginger tea. If you wish them very green, line the
sides and bottom of a preserving-kettle with fresh vine-leaves,
placed very thickly, put in the limes, and pour on as much
clear cold water as will cover them, (spring or pump-water is
best,) and fill up with a very thick layer of vine-leaves. Boil
them slowly an hour or more. If they are not sufficiently
green, repeat the process with fresh vine-leaves and fresh
water. They must boil till a twig can pierce them.

After the limes have been greened, give the kettle a com
plete washing ; or take another and proceed to make the syrup.
Having weighed the limes, allow to every pound of them a
pound of the best double refined loaf-sugar, and half a pint of
very clear water. Break up the sugar and put it into the
kettle. Then pour on to it the water, which must previously
be mixed with some beaten white of egg, allowing the white
of one egg to three pcAids of sugar. Let the sugar dissolve
in the water before vA set it over the fire, stirring it well.
Boil and skim the 3JHBk and when the scum ceases to rise,
put in the limes, a< RHkiuice that was saved from them,
and which must firs^ Rained from the pulp, seeds, &c.
Boil the limes in the syrup till they are very tender and trans-
parent. Then take them out carefully, and spread them on
flat dishes. , Put the syrup into a tureen, and leave it unco-
vered for two days.

In the mean time prepare a jelly for filling the limes. Get
several dozen of fine ripe lemons. Roll them under your hand
on the table, to increase the juice; cut them in half, and
squeeze them through a strainer into a pitcher. To each pint

NEW RECEIPTS. 475

of the juice allow a pound and a quarter of the best dotiblo
refined loaf-sugar. Put the sugar, mixed^vith the lemon-juice,
into a preserving-kettle, and when they are melted set it over
the fire, and boil and skim it till it becomes a thick, firm jelly,
which it should in twenty minutes. Try if it will congeal by
taking out a little in a spoon, and placing it in the open air.
If it congeals immediately, it is sufficiently done. If boiled
too long it will liquefy, and will not congeal again without the
assistance of isinglass. When the jelly is done, put it at once
into a large bowl, and leave it uncovered.

The lemon-jelly, the syrup and the limes, being thoroughly
done, and all grown cold, finish by filling the limes with the
jelly ; putting them, with the open part downwards, into
wide-mouthed glass jars, and gently pouring on them the
syrup. Cover the jars closely, and paste strong paper over
the covers. Or seal the corks.

Very small, thin-skinned, ripe oranges, preserved in this
manner, and filled with orange-jelly, are delicious.

If, instead of having it liquid, you wish the syrup to crystal
lize or candy round the fruit, put no water to the sugar, but
boil it slowly a long time, with the juice only, clarified by beaten
white of egg mixed with the sugar in the proportion of one
white to three pounds.

Before squeezing out the juice of the lemons intended to make
the jelly, it will be well to pare off very thin the yellow rind ;
cut it into bits, and put it into a bottle of white wine or brandy,
where it will keep soft and fresh, and the infusion will make
a fine flavouring for cakes, puddings, &c. The rind of lemons
should never be thrown away, as it is useful for so many nice
purposes. Apple-sauce and apple-pies should always be fla-
voured with lemon-peel.

476 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

PINE-APPLE MARMALADE.— Take the largest, ripest,
nnd most perfect pine-apples. Pare them, and cut out what-
ever blemishes you may find. Weigh each pine-apple, balanc-
ing the other scale with an equal quantity of the best double
refined loaf-sugar, finely powdered. Grate the pine-apples on
a large dish, omitting the hard core in the centre of each. Put
the grated pine-apples and the sugar into a preserving-kettle,
mixing them thoroughly. Set it over a moderate fire, and boil
and skim it well, at times stirring it up from the bottom. After
the scum has ceased to appear, still stir, till the marmalade is
done, which will generally be in half an hour after it has come
to a boil ; but if not clear, bright, and smooth in that time,
continue to boil it longer. When done, put it into a tureen,
and cover it closely, while it is growing cold. Afterwards,
remove it into tumblers, covering the top of each with double
white tissue-paper, cut round so as exactly to fit the inside.
Lay this paper closely on the marmalade, and press it down
round the edges. Then paste on covers of thick paper.

This preparation of pine-apples is far superior to the usual
method of preserving it in slices. It will be found, very fine
for filling tart-shells, and for jelly-cake.

ORANGE DROPS. — Squeeze through a strainer the juice
uf a dozen or more ripe oranges. Have ready some of the best
double refined loaf-sugar, powdered as fine as possible, and
sifted. Mix gradually the sugar with the juice, till it is so
thick you can scarcely stir it. Put it into a porcelain skillet.
Set it on hot coals, or over a moderate fire, and stir it hard with
a wooden spoon for five minutes after it begins to boil. Then
take it off the fire, and with a silver spoon or the point of a
broad knife, drop portions of the mixture upon a flat tin pan or

NEW RECEIPTS. 477

a pewter dish, smoothing the drops, and making them of good
shape and regular size, which should be about that of a cent.
When cold they will easily come off the tin. They are deli-
cious, if properly made. Never use extract or oil of orange for
them, or for any thing else. It will make them taste like tur-
pentine, and render them uneatable. Confectioners form these
drops in moulds made for the purpose.

Lemon drops may be prepared in the same manner.

FINE LEMON SYRUP.— The best time for making le-
mon syrup is early in the spring. Lemons are then plenty,
and the syrup mixed with ice- water, makes a pleasant beverage
for summer. It is best and cheapest to buy lemons by the box.
Before using them for any purpose, each lemon should be wiped
well, and then rolled hard under your hand upon a table to soften
them and increase the juics. Two dozen large ripe lemons
will generally yield about a quart of juice if pressed with a
wooden lemon-squeezer ; but it is best to have a few extra ones
at hand, in case they should be required. To a quart of juice
allow six pounds of the best loaf-sugar, broken up ; on pieces
of which rub off the yellow rind or zest of the lemons. The
white part of the skin is uselass and injurious. Put all the
sugar into a large porcelain preserving-kettle. Beat to a stiff
froth the whites of two eggs, mix it gradually with a quart of
clear soft water, and then add it to the sugar. Stir the sugar
while it is melting in the water, and when all is dissolved,
place the kettle over the fire, and boil and skim it till perfectly
clear, and the scum ceases to rise, and the particles of lemon
zest are no longer visible. Meanwhile, squeeze the lemons
through a strainer into a large pitcher, till you hrve a quart of
juice. When the sugar has boiled sufficiently,, ond is quite
clear, stir in gradually the lemon-juice, cover the keitk, pnd let

478 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

it boil ten minutes longer. When cool put it into clean, clear
glass bottles, either quite new ones or some that have already
contained lemon syrup. The bottles should first be rinsed
with brandy. Cork them tightly and seal the corks. Orange
syrup may be made in a similar manner omitting to use the
grated yellow rind of the oranges, (it being too pungent for
this purpose,) and substituting for it a double quantity of the
juice; for instance, allowing two quarts of juice to six pounds
of sugar.

•< i •

CROQUANT CAKE.— Take three quarters of a pound of
almonds, (of which two ounces, or more, should be the bitter
sort.) and blanch and slice them. Powder three quarters of a
pound of fine white sugar. Sift three quarters of a pound of
flour, and slice half a pound of citron. Mix together the
almond and citron, on a flat dish, and sprinkle among them
flour from the dredging-box, till they are white all over. Beat
six eggs as light as possible, till they are very thick and
smooth. Then mix them gradually with the sugar, almond,
and citron, stirring very hard. Lastly, stir in, by degrees, the-
sifted flour. Butter a tin pan or pans, and put in the mixture
about an inch deep. Bake it; and when cool, cut it into nar-
row slices about an inch wide, and five inches long. To make
them keep a long time, lay them on shallow tins, and give
them a second baking. Put the cakes into a stone jar, and
they will keep a year or more, after this double baking.

SASSAFRAS MEAD.— Mix gradually with two quarts of
boiling water, three pounds and a half of the best brown
sugar, a pint and a half of good West India molasses, and a
quarter of a pound of tartaric acid. Stir it well, and when

NEW RECEIPTS. 479

cool, strain it into a large jug or pan, then mix in a tea-
spoonful (not more) of essence of sassafras. Transfer it to
clean bottles, (it will fill about half a dozen,) cork it tightly,
and keep it in a cool place. It will be fit for use next day.
Put into a box or boxes a quarter of a pound of carbonate of
soda, to use with it. To prepare a glass of sassafras mead
for drinking, put a large table-spoonful of the mead into a half
tumbler full of ice-water, stir into it a half tea-spoonful of the
soda, and it will immediately foam up to the top.

Sassafras mead will be found a cheap, wholesome, and
pleasant beverage for warm weather. The essence of sassafras,
tartaric acid, and carbonate of soda, can of course all be
obtained at the druggists'.

FINE TOMATA CATCHUP.— Take a large quantity of
tomatas, and scald and peel them. Press them through a fine
hair-sieve, and boil the pulp in either a porcelain or a bell-
rnetal preserving-kettle, as tin or iron will blacken it. Cover
the kettle closely, and keep it at a slow boil during four hours.
Then measure the pulp of the tomatas, and to every two quarts
allow a tea-spoonful of salt. Boil it an hour after the salt is
in, stirring it frequently. Have ready, in equal proportions, a
mixture of powdered ginger, nutmeg, mace, and cloves ; and
to every two quarts of the liquid, allow a large tea-spoonful
of these mixed spices, adding a small tea-spoonful of cayenne.
Stir in this seasoning, and then boil the catchup half an hour
longer. Strain it carefully into a large pitcher, avoiding the
grounds or sediment of the spices, and then (while hot)
pour it through a flannel into clean bottles. Cork them tightly,
and .seal the corks. Keep it in a dry, cool place. It will be
of a fine scarlet colour.

480 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

GREEN TOM ATA PICKLES — Slice a gallon of the
largest green tomatas, and salt them over night to your taste.
In the morning mix together a table-spoonful of ground black
pepper; one of mace; one of cloves; four pods of red pepper,
chopped fine ; and half a pint of grated horse-radish. Mix them
all thoroughly. Have ready a large, wide-mouthed stone jar;
put into it first a layer of the seasoning, then a layer of tomatas,
then another of seasoning, then another of tomatas, then ano-
ther of seasoning, another of tomatas ; and so on alternately
till the jar is filled within two inches of the top, finishing with
a layer of seasoning. Then fill up to the top with cold cider
vinegar ; adding at the last a table-spoonful of sweet oil. Cover
the jar closely.

This will be found a very nice pickle, and is easily made, as
it requires no cooking. After the tomatas are all gone, the
liquid remaining in the jar may be used as catchup.

RED TOMATA PICKLES.— Fill three quarters of a jar
with small, round, button tomatas when quite ripe. Put them
in whole, and then pour over them sufficient cold vinegar
(highly flavoured with mace, cloves, and whole black pepper)
to raise them to the top. Add a table-spoonful of sweet oil,
and cover the jar closely.

HASHED VEAL. — Always save the gravy of roast meat.
Having skimmed off the fat, and poured the gravy through a
strainer into a jar, cover it closely, and set it away in a refrige-
rator, or some very cold place, till next day. When cold meat
is hashed or otherwise recooked, it is best to do it in its own
gravy, and without the addition of water.

Take some cold roast veal, and cut it into small mouthfuls
Put it into a skillet or stew-pan, without a drop of water. Add

N E W R K C E I P TS. 48 J

to it the veal gravy that was left the preceding day, and a small
lump of fresh butter. Cover the skillet, and let the hash stew
over the fire for half an hour. Then put to it a large table-
spoonful of tomata catchup ; or more, according to the quantity
of meat. One large table-spoonful of catchup will suffice for
as much hash as will fill a soup-plate. After the catchup is
in, cover the hash, and let it stew half an hour longer. This
is the very best way of dressing cold veal for breakfast.
Observe that there must be no water about it. Cold roast
beef, mutton, or pork, may be hashed in this manner; but
hashed veal is best. You may also hash cold poultry, or rab-
bits, by cutting them in small bits, and stewing them in gravy,
adding mushroom catchup instead of tomata.

FRENCH CHICKEN SALAD — Take a large, fine, cold
fowl, and having removed the skin and fat, cut the flesh from
the bones in very small shreds, not more than an inch long.
The dressing should not be made till immediately before it
goes to table. Have ready half a dozen or more hard-boiled
eggs. Cut up the yolks upon a plate, and with the back of a
wooden spoon mash them to a paste, adding a small salt-spoon-
ful of salt, rather more of cayenne pepper, and a large tea-
gpoonful of made mustard. Mix them well together; then
add two large table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and one of the best
cider vinegar. All these ingredients for the dressing, must
be mixed to a fine, smooth, stiff, yellow paste. Lay the shred
chicken in a nice even heap, upon the middle of a flat dish,
smoothing it, and making it circular or oval with the back of a
spoon, and flattening the top. Then cover it thickly and
smoothly with the dressing, or paste of seasoned yolk of egg, &c.
Have ready a large head of lettuce that has been picked, and
washed in cold water; and, cutting up the best parts of it

41

482 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

very small, mix the lettuce with a portion of the hard-boiled
white of egg minced fine. Lay the chopped lettuce all round
the heap of shred chicken, &c. Then ornament the surface
with very small bits of boiled red' beets, and green pickled
cucumbers, cut into slips and dots, and arranged in a pretty
pattern upon the yellow ground of the coating that covers the
chicken. After taking on your plate a portion of each part of
the salad, mix all together before eating it.

Do not use for this, or any other purpose, the violently and
disagreeable sharp vinegar that is improperly sold in many of
the grocery stores, and is made entirely of chemical acids.
Some of these employed for making vinegar, are so corrosive
as to be absolutely poisonous. This vinegar can always be
known by its very clear transparency, and its excessive pun-
gency, overpowering entirely the taste of every thing with
which it is mixed ; and also by its entire destitution of the
least flavour resembling wine or cider, though it is often sold
as "the best white vinegar." You can always have good
wholesome vinegar by setting in the sun with the cork
loosened, a vessel of cider till it becomes vinegar. In buying

a keg of vinegar, it is best to get it of a farmer that makes cider.

NORMANDY SOUP.—Take four pounds of knuckle of
veal. Put it into a soup pot with twenty common-sized

•

onions, and about four quarts of water. Let it simmer slowly
for two hours or more. Then put in about one third of a six-
penny loaf grated ; adding a small tea-spoonful of salt, and not
quite that quantity of cayenne pepper. Let it boil two hours
longer. Then take out the meat, and press and strain the
soup through a large sieve into a broad pan. Measure it, and
to every quart of the soup add a pint of cream, and about two
ounces of fresh butter divided into four bits, and rolled in

NEW RECEIPTS. 483

flour. Taste the soup, and if you think it requires additional
seasoning1, add a very little more salt and cayenne. Always
be careful not to season soup highly ; as it is very easy for
those who like them to add more salt and pepper, after tasting
it at table.

Put the soup again over the fire, and let it just come to a
boil. Then serve it up. These proportions of the ingredients
ought to make a tureen-full. This soup is a very fine one for
dinner company. The taste of the onions becomes so mild as
to be just agreeably perceptible; particularly in autumn when
the onions are young and fresh. In, cool weather it may be
made the day before; but in this case, when done, it must be
set on ice, and the cream and butter not put in till shortly
before it goes to table.

Never keep soup (or any other article that has been cooked)
in a glazed earthen crock or pitcher. The glazing being of
lead would render it unwholesome. Its effects have some-
times been so deleterious as really to destroy life.

TOMATA SOUP.— Take a fore-leg of beef, and cut it up
into small pieces. Put the meat with the bones into a soup-
pot, and cover it with a gallon of water. Season it with pepper,
and a little salt. Boil and skim it well. Have ready half a
peck of ripe toraatas cut up small ; and when the soup is boil-
ing thoroughly, put them in with all their juice. Add six
onions sliced, and some crusts of bread cut small. The soup
must then be boiled slowly for six hours or more. When done,
strain it through a cullender. Put into the tureen some pieces
of bread cut into dice or small squares, and pour the soup
upon it.

Tomata soup (like most others) is best when made the day
before. In this case you may boil it longer and slower. Then

'J84 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

having strained it into a stone jar, cover it closely, and set it
away in a cold place. Next day, add some grated bread-
crumbs mixed with a little butter, and give the soup a boil up.
When ochras are in season, this soup will be greatly im-
proved by the addition of half a peck of ochras, peeled and
sliced thin.

CALVES' FEET SOUP Take eight calves' feet (two

sets) and season them with a small tea-spoonful of salt, half
a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and half a tea-spoonful of black
pepper, all mixed together and rubbed over the feet. Slice a
quarter of a peck of ochras, and a dozen onions, and cut up a
quarter of a peck of tomatas without skinning them. Put the
whole into a soup-pot with four quarts of water, and boil and
skim it during two hours. Then take out the calves' feet, and
put them on a dish. Next, strain the soup through a cullender,
into an earthen pan, and with the back of a short wooden ladle
mash out into the pan of soup all the liquid from the vege-
tables, till they are as dry as possible. Cut off all the meat
nicely from the bones into small bits, and return it to the soup,
adding a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four,
and rolled in flour. Put the soup again into the pot, and give
it a boil up. Toast two or three large thick slices of bread;
cut it into small square dice or mouthfuls ; lay it in the bottom
of the tureen ; pour the soup over it, and put on the tureen cover
immediately. This soup (which, however, can only be made
when tomatas and ochras are in season) will be found excellent.
Jt may be greatly improved by boiling in it the hock of a cold
ham : in which case add no salt.

FINE CALVES' HEAD SOUP.— Boil in as much water
as will cover it, a calf's head with the skin on, till you can

NEW RECEIPTS. 485

lip out the bones. Then take a fore-leg of beef, and a knuckle
of veal; cut them up, and put them (bones and all) into the
liquid the calf's head was boiled in ; adding as much more
\vater as will cover the meat. Skim it well; and after it has
thoroughly come to a boil, add half a dozen sliced carrots ; half
a dozen sliced onions ; a large head of celery cut small ; a bunch
of sweet herbs; and a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Boil
the whole slowly during five hours; then strain it into a
large pan.

Take rather more than a pint of -the liquid, (after all the fat
has been carefully skimmed off,) and put it into a saucepan
with two. ounces of fresh butter, a bunch of sweet marjoram^
a few sprigs of parsley, two onions minced fine, and a large
slice of the lean of some cold boiled ham, cut into little bits.
Keep it closely covered, and let it simmer over the fire for an
hour, Then press it through a sieve into the pan that contains
the rest of the soup. Thicken it with a large tea-cupful (half
a pint) of grated bread-crumbs ; return it to the soup-pot, and
boil it half an hour. Unless your dinner hour is late, it is best
to make this soup the day before, putting it into a large stone-
ware or china vessel, (not an earthen one,) covering it closely
and setting it in a cool place.

Have ready some force-meat balls, made of the meat of the
calves' head, finely minced, and mixed with grated bread-
crumbs, butter, powdered sweet-majoram, a very little salt and
pepper, and some beaten yolk of egg to cement these ingre-
dients together. Each ball should be rolled in flour, and fried
in fresh butter before it is put into the soup. Shortly before
you send it to table, add a large lemon sliced thin without
peeling, and a pint of good madeira or sherry, wine of inferior
quality being totally unfit for soup, terrapin, or any such
purposes. Add also the yolks of some hard-boiled eggs cut

41*

486 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

in half. Then, -after the wine, lemon, and eggs are all in,
give the soup one boil up, but not more.

THE BEST CLAM SOUP.— Put fifty clams into a large
pot of boiling water, to make the shells open easily. Take a
knuckle of veal, cut it into pieces (four calves' feet split in
half will be still better) and put it into a soup-pot with the
liquor of the clams, and a quart of rich milk, or cream, adding
a large bunch of sweet majoram, and a few leaves of sage,
cut into pieces, and a head of celery chopped small ; also, a
dozen whole pepper-corns, but no salt, as the saltness of the
clam liquor will be sufficient. Boil it till all the meat of
the veal drops from the bones, then strain off the soup
and return it to the pot, which must first be washed out.
Having in the mean time cut up the clams, and pounded them
in a mortar, (which will cause them to flavour the soup much
better,) season them with two dozen blades of mace, and two
powdered nutmegs ; mix with them a quarter of a pound of
fresh butter, and put them into the soup with all the liquor
that remains about them. After the clams are in, let it boil
another quarter of an hour. Have ready some thick slices of
nicely-toasted bread, (with the crust removed,) cut them into
small square mouthfuls; put them into a tureen; and pour the
soup upon them. It will be found excellent. Oyster soup
may be made in the same manner.

BAKED CLAMS. — In taking out the clams, save several
dozen of the largest and finest shells, which must afterwards
be washed clean, and wiped dry. Chop the clams fine, and
mix with them some powdered mace and nutmeg. Butter the
Hides and bottom of a large, deep dish, and cover the bottom
with a layer of grated bread-crumbs. Over this scatter some

NEW RECEIPTS. 487

very small bits of the best fresh butter. Then put in a thick
layer of the chopped clams. Next, another layer of grated
bread-crumbs, and little bits of butter. Then, a layer of
chopped clams, and proceed in this manner till the dish is full,
finishing at the top with a layer of crumbs. Set the dish in
the oven, and bake it about a quarter of an hour. Have ready
the clam-shells and fill them with the baked mixture, either
leaving them open, or covering each with another clam-shell.

I

Place them on large dishes, and send them to table hot.

Oysters may be cooked in a similar manner ; sending them
to table in the dish in which they were baked. The meat of
boiled crabs may also be minced, seasoned, and dressed this
way, and sent to table in the back shells of the crabs.

Clams intended for soup will communicate to it a much finer
flavour, if they are previously chopped small, and pounded in
a mortar.

FINE STEWED OYSTERS Strain the liquor from two

hundred large oysters, and putting the half of it into a sauce-
pan, add a table-spoonful of whole mace, and let it come to a hard
boil, skimming it carefully. Have ready six ounces of fresh
outter divided into six balls or lumps, and roll each slightly in
a little flour. Add them to the boiling oyster liquor, and when
the butter is all melted, stir the whole very hard, and then put
in the oysters. As soon as they have come to a boil, take
them out carefully, and lay them immediately in a pan of very
cold water, to plump them and make them firm. Then season
the liquor with a grated nutmeg ; and taking a pint and a half
of very rich cream, add it gradually to the liquor, stirring it all
the time. When it has boiled again, return the oysters to it,
and simmer them in the creamed liquor about five minutes, or

488 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

just long enough to heat them thoroughly. Send them to the
tea-table hot in a covered dish.

If you stew six or eight hundred oysters, in this manner, for
a large company, see that the butter, spice, cream, &c., are all
increased in the proper proportion.

Oysters cooked in this way make very fine patties. The
shells for which must be made of puff-paste, and baked empty
in very deep patty-pans, filling them, when done^with oysters.

SPICED OYSTERS.— To four hundred large oysters allow
a pint of cider vinegar, four grated nutmegs, sixteen blades of
whole mace, six dozen of whole cloves, three dozen whole

•

pepper corns, and a salt-spoonful of cayenne. Put the liquor
into a porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it ; when it has come
to a hard boil, add the vinegar and put in the oysters with the
seasoning of spices, &c. Give them one boil up, for if boiled
longer they will shrivel and lose their flavour. Then put them
into a stone or glass jar, cover them closely, and set them in a
cool place. They must be quite cold when eaten.

You may give them a light reddish tint by boiling in the
liquor a little prepared cochineal.

TO KEEP FRESH EGGS — Have a close, dry keg, for the
purpose of receiving the eggs as they are brought in fresh from
the hen's nests. An old biscuit keg will be best. Keep near
it a patty-pan, or something of the sort, to hold a piece of clean
white rag with some good lard tied up in it. While they are
fresh and warm from the nest, grease each egg all over with
the lard, not omitting even the smallest part; and then put it
into the keg with the rest. Eggs preserved in this manner
(and there is no better way) will continue good for months,
] rovided they were perfectly fresh when greased ; and it is

N E W R K C F, I P T S. 489

useless to attempt preserving any but new-laid eggs. No
process whatever, can restore or prevent from spoiling, any egg
that is the least stale. Therefore, if you live in a city, or have
not hens of your own, it is best to depend on buying eggs as
you want them.

A MOLASSES PIE.— Make a ™0d paste, and havin<r

i

rolled it out thick, lino a pio-dish -rTTTh a portion of it. Then
fill up the dish with molasses, into which you have previously
stirred a table-spoonful, or more, of ground ginger. Cover it
with an upper crust of the paste; notch the edges neatly; and
bake it brown. This pie, plain as it is, will be found very
good. It will be improved by laying a sliced orange or lemon
in the bottom before you put in the molasses. To the ginger
you may add a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon.

SOUP A LA LUCY.— Take a large fowl; cut it up; put
it with a few small onions into a soup-pot, and fry it brown
in plenty of lard. Afterwards pour in as much water as you
intend for the soup, and boil it slowly till the whole strength
of the chicken is extracted, and the flesh drops in rags from
the bones. An hour before dinner, strain off the liquid, re-
turn it to the pot (which must first be cleared entirely out) add
the liquor of a quart of fresh oysters, and boil it again. In
half an hour put in the oysters and mix into the soup two
large table-spoonfuls of fresh batter rolled in flour; some
whole pepper ; blades of mace ; and grated nutmeg. Toast
some thick slices of bread (without the crust) cut them into
dice, and put them into the soup tureen. For the fowl, yo-u
may substitute a knuckle of veal cut up ; or a pair of rabbits.

490 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

MINT JULEP. — This can only be made when fresh green
mint is in season.

Lay at the bottom of a large tumbler, one or two round
slices of pine-apple nicely pared; and cover them with a thick
layer of loaf-sugar, powdered or well-broken. Pour on it a
glass or more of the best brandy. Add cold water till the
tumbler is two-thirds full. Finish with a thick layer of pounded
ice till it nearly reaches the top. Then stick down to one
side a bunch of fresh green mint, the sprigs full and hand-
some, and tall enough to rise above the edge of the tumbler.
Place, in the other side, one of the small tubes or straws used
for drawing in this liquid.

The proportions of the above ingredients may, of course, be
varied according to taste.

A UXIOX PUDDIXG.— The night before you make this
pudding, take a piece of rennet, in size rather more than two
inches square, and carefully wash off in two cold waters
all the salt from the outside. Then wipe it dry. Put the
rennet into a tea-cup and pour on sufficient milk-warm water
to cover it well. Xext morning, as early as you can, stir the
rennet-water into a quart of rich milk. Cover the milk, and
set it in a warm place till it forms a firm curd, and the whey
becomes thin and greenish. Then remove it to a cold place
and set it on ice. Blanch, in scalding water, two ounces of
shelled bitter almonds, or peach-kernels ; and two ounces of
shelled sweet almonds. Pound the almonds in a mortar, to a
smooth paste, one at a time (sweet and bitter alternately, so
as? to mix them well) ; and add, while pounding, sufficient rose-
water to make them light and white, and to prevent their
oiling. Grate upon a lump of loaf-sugar the yellow rind or
zest of two lemons, scraping off the lemon-zest as you proceed,

NEW RECEIPTS. 49 1

and transferring it to a saucer. Squeeze over it the juice of
the lemons, and mix the juice and the zest with half a pound
and two ounces of finely-powdered loaf-is ugar, adding a small
nutmeg, grated. Then put the cold curd into a sieve, and
drain it from the whey till it is left very dry, chopping the
curd small, that it may drain the better. Beat in a shallow
pan the yolks of eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth.
Then mix into the egg the curd, in turn with the pounded
almonds, and the sugar and lemon. Finish with a glass of
brandy, or of Madeira or Sherry, and stir the whole very hard.

Butter a deep dish of strong white ware. Put in the mix-
ture : set it immediately into a brisk oven and bake it well.
When done, set it in a cold place till wanted, and before it
goes to table, sift powdered sugar over it. It will be still
better to cover the surface with a meringue or icing, highly
flavored with rose-water or lemon-juice. You may decorate the
centre with the word UNION in letters of gilt sugar.

The pudding will be found very fine.

COCOA-NUT CANDY.— Take three cocoa-nuts and grate
their meat on a coarse grater. Weigh the grated cocoa-nut,
and to each pound, allow one pound of the best double-refined
loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, and to
every two pounds allow a pint of water, and the beaten white
of one egg mixed into the water. When the sugar is. entirely
dissolved in the water, set it over the fire, and boil and skim
it. When the scum has ceased to rise, and the sugar is boil-
ing hard, begin to throw in the grated cocoa-nut, gradually,
stirring hard all the time. Proceed till the mixture is so thick
it can be stirred no longer. Have ready, square or oblong
tin pans, slightly buttered with the best fresh butter. Fill
them with the mixture, put in evenly and smoothly, and of

492 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

the same thickness all through the pan. Smooth the surface
all over with a broad knife dipped in cold water. Set it to
cool, and, when the candy is almost hard, score it down in
perpendicularly straight lines with a sharp knife dipped in
cold water, the lines being two or three inches apart. These
cuts must be made deep down to the bottom of the pan.
When it is quite cold and firm, cut the candy entirely apart,
so as to form long sticks, and keep it in a cold place.

If any of the gra-ted cocoa-nut is left, you may make it into
cocoa-nut maccaroons, or into a cocoa-nut pudding.

PRESERVED GREEN TOMATAS.— rake a peck of
button tomatas, full grown, but quite green. "Weigh them,
and to each pound allow a pound of the best double-refined
loaf-sugar, broken up small. Scald- and peel them. Have
ready ten lemons rolled under your hand on a table, to in-
crease the juice. Grate off", upon lumps of sugar, the yellow
surface of the rind, scraping up the grating or zest with a
spoon, and transferring it to a bowl. Squeeze over it, through
a strainer, the juice of the lemon. Take a quarter of a pound
of root ginger, scrape off the outside, grate the ginger and
mix it with the lemon.

Put the sugar into a large preserving kettle, and pour water
on it; allowing half a pint of water to each pound of sugar.
Stir it. about with a large, clean wooden spoon, till it melts.
Set it over a clear fire, and boil and skim it. After it has
boiled, and is very clear, and the scum has ceased to rise, put
in the tomatas and boil them till every one has slightly
bursted. Next add the lemon arid ginger, and boil them
about a quarter of an hour longer. Then take them out
and spread them on large dishes to cool. Boil the syrup by
itself, ten minutes longer. Put the tomatas into jars, about

NEW RECEIPTS. 493

half full, and fill up with the syrup. Cover the jars closely,
and paste paper round the lids ; or tie bladders over them.

Green tomatas, done as above, make an excellent sweetmeat.
Ripe or red tomatas may be preserved in the same manner;
yellow ones also.

The lemon and ginger must on no account be omitted.

PRESERVED FIGS.— Take figs when perfectly ripe, and
wipe them carefully, leaving the stem about half an inch
long. Boil them rapidly, for about ten minutes, in water
that has a small bag of hickory wood-ashes laid at the bottom
of the preserving kettle. Then take them out carefully, so as
not to break the skins. Wash out the kettle, and boil the
figs a second time, in clean hot water, for ten minutes. Take
them out, spread them separately on large dishes, and let
them rest till next morning.

Prepare a syrup, by allowing to every pound of the finest
loaf-sugar, half a pint of water, and, when melted together,
placing the kettle over the fire. When the syrup has boiled,
and is thoroughly skimmed, put in the figs, and boil them
about twenty-five minutes or half an hour. Then take them
out, and again spread them to cool on large dishes. After-
wards, put them up in glass jars, pouring the syrup over
them. Cover the jars closely, and set them in the hot sun
all next day. Then seal the corks with the red cement made
of melted rosin and bees-wax, thickened with fine brick-dust.

Another way is to cut the stems closely, and to peel off the
skin of the figs; and to substitute for the bag of wood-ashes,
a little powdered alum. Then proceed as above.

MYRTLE ORANGES PRESERVED.— The small myrtle

of the South, makes a very fine green sweetmeat. Lay them

42

494 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

three days in weak salt and -water. Then three days in cold
water, changed at least three times a day. Afterwards, put
a layer of green vine-leaves at the bottom of the preserving
kettle, and round the sides. Put in a layer of oranges,
sprinkling among them a very little powdered alum, allowing
not more than a heaped salt-spoonful of alum to the whole
kettle of oranges and vine-leaves. Then fill up with water ;
hang them over the fire till they are of a fine green, and boil
them till they are so tender that you can pierce them
through with a twig from a whisk broom. "When clear and
crisp, take them out of the kettle, spread them on flat dishes,
and throw away the vine-leaves. Then wash out the kettle,
and, having weighed the oranges, allow to each pound
one pound of double-refined sugar, broken small. Put
the sugar into the preserving-kettle, and pour on half a pint
of water to each pound of sugar. When it is quite dissolved,
hang it over the fire, and boil and skim it till it is very clear,
and no more scum appears on the surface. Then put in the
oranges, and boil them slowly in the syrup till they slightly
burst.

Another way is to scoop out all the inside of oranges as
soon as they are greened, and make a thick jelly of it, with
the addition of some more orange-pulp from other oranges.
Press it through a strainer, and, after adding a pound of sugar
to each pint of orange juice, boil it to a jelly. Having boiled
the empty oranges in a syrup "till they are crisp and tender,
spread them out to cool — fill them with the jelly, and put
them up in glass jars, pouring the syrup over them.

TO KEEP STRAWBEPvRIES.— Take the largest and
finest ripe strawberries, hull them, and put them immediately
into large wide-mouthed bottles, filling them quite up to the top.

NEW RECEIPT 495

Cork them directly, find bo sure to wire the corks. Set
bottles into a large preserving-kettle full of cold water.
Place them over the fire, and let the water boil around them
for a quarter of an hour after it has come to a boil. Then
take out the bottles, drain them, and wipe the outside dry.
Proceed at once to seal the corks hermetically, with the red
cement made of one-third bees-wax cut up, and two-thirds
rosin, melted together in a skillet over the fire, and, when
completely liquid, taken off the fire, and thickened to the con-
sistence of sealing-wax by stirring in sufficient finely pow-
dered brick-dust. This cement must be spread on hot over
the wired corks. It is excellent for all sweetmeat and pickle
jars. Nothing is better. Keep the bottles in boxes of dry
sand. When opened, the strawberries will be found fresh
and highly flavoured, as when just gathered. They must,
however, be used as soon as they are opened, for exposure to
the air will spoil them.

Raspberries, ripe currants stripped from the stalk, ripe
gooseberries topped and tailed, and any small fruit, may be
kept in this manner for many months.

In France, where syrups of every sort of fruit are made by
boiling the juice with sugar, and then bottling it, it is very
customary to serve up, in glass dishes, fruits preserved as
above, with their respective syrups poured round them, from
the bottles. They are delicious.

TO KEEP PEACHES.— Take fine ripe juicy free-stone
peaches. Pare them, and remove the stones by thrusting
them out with a skewer, leaving the peaches as nearly whole
as possible. Or you may cut them in half. Put them imme-
diately into flat stone jars, and cement on the covers with the
composition of bees-wax and rosin melted together, and

496 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

thickened with powdered brick dust. The jars (fitted up to
the top] must be so closely' covered that no air can possibly
get to the peaches. Then pack the jars in boxes of sand, or
of powdered charcoal, and nail on the box-lid.

Peaches done in this manner, have arrived at California in
perfect preservation. But they must be eaten as soon as the
jars are opened.

GREEN CORN MUFFINS.— Having boiled the corn,
grate it, as if for a pudding. Beat six eggs very light, and
stir them gradually into a quart of milk. Then stir in, by
degrees, the grated corn, till you have a moderately thick
batter. Add a salt-spoon of salt. Butter the inside of your
muffin-rings. Place them on a hot griddle, over a clear fire,
and nearly fill them with the batter. Bake the muffins well,
and send them to table hof. Eat them with butter.

COMPOTE OF SWEET POTATOES.— Select fine large
sweet potatoes, all nearly the same size. Boil them well and
then peel off the skins. Then lay the potatoes in a large
baking-dish; put some pieces of fresh, butter among them,
and sprinkle them very freely with powdered sugar. Bake
them slowly, till the butter and sugar form a crust. They
should be eaten after the meat. This is a Carolina dish, and
will be found very good.

BAKED HAM. — Soak a nice small sugar-cured ham in
cold water, from early in the evening till next morning —
changing the water at bed-time. (It may require twenty-four
hours' soaking.) Trim it nicely, and cut the shank-bone short
off. Make a coarse paste of merely flour and water, sufficient
in quantity to enclose the whole ham. Roll it out, and cover
the ham entirely with it. Place it in a well-heated oven, and

NEW RECEIPTS. 497

bake it five hours, or more, in proportion to its size. "When
done, remove the paste, peel off the skin, and send the ham to
table, with its essence or gravy about it. It will be found
very fine.

If the ham is rather salt and hard, parboil it for two
hours. Then put it into the paste, and bake it three hours.

MUSHROOM SWEET-BREADS.— Take four fine fresh*
sweet-breads ; trim them nicely, split them open, and remove
the gristle or pipe. Then lay the sweet-breads in warm water
till all the blood is drawn out. Afterwards, put them into
a saucepan, set them over the fire, and parboil them for a
quarter of an hour. Then take them out, and lay them imme-
diately in a pan of cold water.

Have ready a quart of fresh mushrooms ; peel them, and
remove the stalks. Spread out the mushrooms on a large flat

•

dish, with the hollow side uppermost, and sprinkle them
slightly with a little salt and pepper. Having divided each
sweet-bread into four quarters, put them into a saucepan with
the mushrooms, and add a large piece of the best fresh butter
rolled in flour. Cover the pan closely, and set it over a clear
fire that has no blaze. You must lift the saucepan by the
handle, and shake it round hard, otherwise, the contents may
burn at the bottom. Keep it closely covered all the time ; for
if the lid is removed, much of the mushroom-flavour may
escape. Let them stew steadily for a quarter of an hour or
more. Then take them up, and send them to table in a co-
vered dish, either at breakfast or dinner. They will be found
delicious. If the mushrooms are large, quarter them.

PANCAKE HAM. — Cut very thin some slices of cold ham,

making them all nearly of the same size and shape. Beat

42*

498 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

six eggs very light, and smooth. Stir them, gradually, into
a pint of rich milk, alternately with six table-spoonfuls of
sifted flour, adding half a nutmeg, grated. If you find the
batter too thick, add a little more milk. For pancakes or
fritters, the batter should be rather thin. Take a yeast-pow-
der ; dissolve the contents of the blue paper (the soda) in a
little warm water, and, when quite melted, stir it into the
batter. In another cup, dissolve the tartaric acid from the
white paper, and stir that in immediately after. Have ready,
in a frying-pan over the fire, a sufficiency of lard melted and
boiling, or of fresh butter. Put in a ladle-full of the batter,
and fry it brown. Have ready a hot plate, and put the pan-
cakes on it as soon as they come out of the frying-pan, keep-
ing them covered, close to the fire. When they are all baked,
pile them evenly on a hot dish, with a slice of cold ham be-
tween every two pancakes, beginning with a cake at the bot-
tom of the pile, and finishing with a cake at the top. You
may arrange them in two piles, or more. In helping, cut
down through the whole pile of pancakes and ham alternately.
In making yeast-powders, allow twice as much carbonate of
soda as of tartaric acid. For instance, a level tea-spoonful of
soda to a level salt-spoonful of the tartaric acid. Put up the
two articles, separately folded in papers of s different colours ;
the former in blue paper, the latter in white.

AN APPLE PANDOWDY.— Make a good plain paste.
Pare, core, and slice half a dozen or more fine large juicy
apples, and strew among them sufficient brown sugar to
make them very sweet; adding some cloves, cinnamon, or
lemon-peel. Have ready a pint of sour milk. Butter a deep
tin baking-pan, and put in the apples with the sugar and
spice. Then, having dissolved, in a little lukewarm water,

NEW RECEIPTS. 499

a small tea-spoonful of soda, stir it into the milk, the acid of
which it will immediately remove. Pour the milk, foaming,
upon the apples, and immediately put a lid or cover of paste
over the top, in the manner of a pie. This crust should be
rolled out rather thick. Notch the edge all round, having
made it fit closely. Set it into a hot oven, and bake it an
hour. Eat it warm, with sugar.

HONEY PASTE (for the HANDS.)— Take half a pound
of strained honey, half a pound of white wax, and half
a pound of fresh lard. Cut up the wax very small, put it
into a porcelain-lined saucepan, and set it over the fire till it
is quite melted. Then add alternately the honey and the
lard ; stirring them all well together. Let them boil mode-
rately, till they become a thick paste, about the consistence of
simple cerate, or of lip salve. Then remove the saucepan
from the fire, and stir into the mixture some rose-perfume,
or carnation, or violet — no other. Transfer the paste, while
warm, to gallicups with covers; and paste a slip of white
paper round each cover.

For keeping the hands white and soft, and preventing their
chapping, there is nothing superior to this paste ; rubbing on
a little of it, after dipping your hands lightly in water.

GLYCERINE. — This is an excellent and very convenient
preparation for the hands. Buy a bottle of it at one of the
best druggists, and keep it well corked. After washing your
hands with palm or castile soap, empty the basin, and pour
in a little fresh water, to which add a few drops of glycerine.
Finish your hands with this, rubbing it in hard. It will
render them very soft and smooth, and prevent chapping.
Try it, by all means.

500 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

TO KEEP OFF MOSQUITOES.— Before going to bed,
put a little eau de cologne into a basin of clean water, and
with this wash your face, neck, hands, and arms, letting it
dry on. . The musquitocs then will not touch you.

It may be necessary to repeat this washing before morning,
or about day-light. There is nothing*better. You may also
do it early in the evening, before the musquitoes begin.

CORN-STARCH BLANCMANGE.— Buy at one of the

best grocer's, a half-pound paper of corn-starch flour. Boil
a quart of milk, taking out of it a large tea-cup-full, which
you may put into a pan. While the milk is boiling, mix with
the cold milk four heaping table-spoonfuls of the corn-starch.
Beat three eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture.
Flavour it with a tea-spoonful of extract of bitter almonds, or
of vanilla, or a wine-glass of rose-water. Add a quar-
ter of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir the whole well
together. When the other milk is boiling hard, pour it gradu-
ally on the mixture in the pan, which mixture will thicken
while the milk is pouring. Transfer it to blancmange moulds,
(first wetting them with cold water,) and set them in a cold
place till dinner-time. Eat it with cream. Serve up sweet-
meats at the same time.

If you use new milk, the mixture will be like a soft custard,
and must be sent to table as such. Skim-milk makes it
blancmange.

If you wish it as a pudding, use five heaping spoonfuls of
the corn-starch powder. Send it to table hot, and eat it with
wine sauce. It is a pudding very soon prepared.

Blancmange moulds are best of block tin. Those of china
are more liable to stick.

These preparations of corn-starch are much liked.

NEW RECEIPTS. 501

FARINA — Is the finest, lightest, and most delicate prepa-
ration of wheat flour. It is excellent for all sorts of boiled
puddings, for flummery, and blancmange. Also, as gruel
for the sick.

CINNAMON CAKE.— Take as much of the very best and
lightest bread-dough as -will weigh a pound. The dough
must have risen perfectly, so as to have cracked all over the
surface. Put it into a pan, and mix into it a quarter of a
pound of fresh butter, melted in half a pint of milk, adding
a well-beaten egg, and sufficient flour to enable you to knead
the dough over again. Then mix in a heaping tea-spoonful
of powdered cinnamon. Next, take a yeast-powder. In one
cup, melt the soda or contents of the blue paper, in as much
lukewarm water as will cover it; and, when thoroughly melt-
ed, mix it into the dough. Immediately after, having dis-
solved in another cup the tartaric acid, or contents of the
white paper, stir that in also, and knead the dough a little
while, till the whole is well mixed. Spread the dough thick
and evenly in a square pan greased with lard or fresh butter,
and with a knife make deep cuts all through it. Having
previously prepared in a bowl a mixture of brown sugar,
moistened with butter, and highly flavoured with powdered
cinnamon, in the proportion of four heaping table-spoonfuls
of sugar to two large spoonfuls of butter and one heaped
tea-spoonful of cinnamon. Fill the cuts with this mixture,
pressing it down well into the dough. Bake the cake half
an hour or more, in a rather quick oven. When done, set it to
cool ; and when cold, cut it in squares, and sift powdered white
sugar over it. It is best the clay it is baked.

You may, previous to baking, form the dough into separate

502 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

round cakes ; and in placing them in the pan, do not lay them
so near each other as to touch.

£ -f bespeaking it in time, you can get risen bread dough
from your baker. For two pounds of dough you must double
the proportions of the above ingredients.

THAWING FROZEN MEAT, &c.— If meat, poultry, fish,
vegetables, or any other article of food, when found frozen, is
thawed by putting it into warm water or placing it before the
fire, it will most certainly spoil by that process, and be
rendered unfit to eat. The only way is to thaw these things
by immersing them in cold water. This should be done as
soon as they are brought in from market, that they may have
time to be well thawed before they are cooked. If meat that
has been frozen is to be boiled, put it on in cold water. If
to be roasted, begin by setting it at a distance from the fire ;
for if it should not chance to be thoroughly thawed all through
to the centre, placing at first too near the fire will cause it to
spoil. If it is expedient to thaw the meat or poultry the night
before cooking, lay it in cold water early in the evening, and
change the water at bed-time. If found crusted with ice in
the morning, remove the ice, and put the meat in fresh cold
water; letting it lie in it till wanted for cooking

Potatoes are injured by being frozen. Other vegetables
are not the worse for it, provided they are always thawed in
cold water.

KEEPING MEAT, &c., IN SUMMER.— In summer,
meat, poultry, iish, fruit, &c., should always be kept in ice,
from the time- they are brought from market till it is time to
r<H'k them. I'aniilics, who have not an ice-house, should
have two refrigerators; one for meat and poultry, the other

NEW RECEIPTS. 503

for milk, butter, and fruit. If the three lust articles are kept
in the same refrigerator with meat and poultry, the milk,
butter and fruit will imbibe a bad taste.

A barrel of salt fish should never be kept in the same cel-
lar with other articles of food. The fish-smell will in] ure them
greatly, and render them unwholesome ; milk and butter par-
ticularly.

It is best to buy salt fish a little at a time, as you want it.
A fish-barrel in the cellar will sometimes vitiate the atmo-
sphere of the whole lower story of the house, and, indeed, may
be smelt immediately on entering the door. In this case, let
the barrel and its contents be conveyed to the river and thrown
in ; otherwise, its odour may produce sickness in the family.

Avoid eating anything that is in the very least approaching
to decomposition. Even sour bread and strong butter are
unwholesome as well as unpalatable. If the bread is sour, or
the butter rancid, it is because (as the French, in such cases,
unceremoniously say) "putrefaction has 'commenced/7 For-
tunately, the vile practice (once considered fashionable) of
eating venison and other game when absolutely tainted, is
now obsolete at all good tables. Persons who have had op-
portunities of feasting on fresh-killed venison, just from the
woods, and at a season when the deer have plenty of wild
berries to feed on and are fat and juicy, can never relish the
hard, lean, black haunches that are brought to the cities in
winter.

BROILED SHAD.— Cut off the head and tail, and clean
the fish. Wipe it very dry with a cloth, and sprinkle the
inside with a little salt and pepper. You may either broil it
split open, and laid flat; or you may cut it into three or four
pieces without splitting. In the latter case, it will require a

504 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

longer time to broil. Keep it in ice till you are ready to cook
it. Having well greased the bars with lard, or beef suet, or
fresh butter, set your gridiron over a bed of clear, bright, hot
coals; place the shad upon it (the inside downwards) and
broil it thoroughly. When one side is done, turn it on the
other with a knife and fork. Have ready a hot dish, with a
large piece of softened fresh butter upon it, sprinkled with
cayenne. When the shad is broiled, lay it on this dish, and
turn it in the butter with a knife and fork. Send it hot to
table, under a dish-cover.

APPLE PORK.— Take a fillet of fine fresh pork, and rub
it slightly all over with a very little salt and pepper. Score
the outside skin in diamonds. Take out the bone, and fill up
the place with fine juicy apples, pared, cored, and cut small,
and made very .sweet with plenty of brown sugar; adding
some bits of the yellow rind of a lemon or two, pared off very
thin. Then have ready a dozen and a half or more of large
apples, pared, cored, and quartered, sweetened well with sugar,
and also flavoured with yellow rind of lemon. The juice of
the lemons will be an improvement. Put the pork into a
large pot, or into an iron bake-oven ; fill up with the cut
apples the space all round, adding just sufiicient water to keep
it from burning. Stew or bake it during three hours. When
done, serve all up in one large dish.

STEWED SALT PORK.— Take a good piece of salt pork,
(not too fat,) and, early in the evening, lay it in water, to soak
all night, changing the water about bed-time. In the morn-
ing, drain and wash the pork, -and cut it in very thin slices,
seasoning it with pepper. Put a layer of this pork in the
bottom of a large dinner-pot, and then a layer of slices of

NEW RECEIPTS. 505

bread. Next put in a layer of potatoes, pared and cut up ;
then another layer of pork slices, covered by another layer of
sliced bread ; and then again potatoes. Proceed till the pot
is two-thirds full, finishing \vith bread. Lastly, pour on just
sufficient water to stew it well and keep it from burning.
Set it over the fire, and let it cook slowly for three hours. If
it becomes too dry, add a little boiling water.

This is a homely dish, but a very good one, particularly
on a farm or on ship-board. At sea, you must substitute
biscuit for bread.

Cold pork, left from yesterday, may be cooked in this
manner.

TO MAKE GOOD TOAST.—Cut the bread in even slices,
and moderately thick. When cut too thin, toast is hard and
tasteless. It is much nicer when the crust is pared off before
toasting. A long-handled toasting-fork (to be obtained at the
hardware or tin stores) is far better than Jhe usual toasting
apparatus, made to stand before the fire with the slices of
bread slipped in between, and therefore liable to be browned
in stripes, dark and light alternately ; unless the bread, while
toasting, is carefully slipped along, so that the whole may
receive equal benefit from the fire. With a fork, whose han-
dle is near a yard in length, the cook can sit at a comfortable
distance from the fire, and the bread will be equally browned
all over ; when one side is done, taking it off from the fork,
and turning the other. Send it to table hot, in a heated
plate, or in a toast-rack ; and butter it to your taste. Toast
should neither be burnt nor blackened in any way. You may
lay it in even piles, and butter it before it goes to table ; cut-
ting each slice in half.

43

CARVING.

THE seat for the carver should be somewhat elevated above
the other chairs : it is extremely ungraceful to carve standing,
and it.is rarely done by any person accustomed to the business.
Carving depends more on skill than on strength. We have
seen very small women carve admirably sitting down; and
very tall men who knew not how to cut a piece of beef-steak
without rising on their feet to do it.

The carving knife should be very sharp, and not heavy ; and
it should be held firmly in the hand : also the dish should be
not too far from the carver. It is customary to help the fish
with a fish trowel, and not with a knife. The middle part of
a fish is generally considered the best. In helping it, avoid
breaking the flakes, as that will give it a mangled appearance.

In carving ribs or sirloin of beef, begin by cutting thin slices
off the side next to you. Afterwards you may cut from the
tender-loin, or cross-part near the lower end. Do not send any
one the outside piece, unless you know that they particularly
wish it.

In helping beef-steak, put none of the bone on the plate.

In cutting a round of corned beef, begin at the top ; but lay
aside the first cut or outside piece, and send it to no one, as it
is always dry and hard. In a round of a-la-mode beef, the out-
side is frequently preferred.

In a leg of mutton, begin across the middle, cutting the
slices quite down to the bone. The same with a leg of pork
or a ham. The latter should be cut in very thin slices, as its

flavour is spoiled when cut thick.
506

CARVING. .">07

To taste well, a tongue should be cut crossways in round
slices. Cutting it lengthwise (though the practice at many
tables) injures the flavour. The middle part of the tongue is
the best. Do not help any one to a piece of the root ; that, be-
ing by no means a favoured part, is generally left in the dish.

In carving a fore-quarter of lamb, first separate the shoulder
part from the breast and ribs, by passing the knife under, and
then divide the ribs. If the lamb is large, have another dish
brought to put the shoulder in.

For a loin of veal, begin near the smallest end, and separate
the ribs ; helping a part of the kidney (as far as it will go)
with each piece. Carve a loin of pork or mutton in the same
manner.

In carving a fillet of veal, begin at the top. Many persons
prefer the first cut or outside piece. Help a portion of the
stuffing with each slice.

In a breast of veal, there are two parts very different in
quality, the ribs and the brisket. You will easily perceive the
division; enter your knife at it, and cut through, which will
separate the two parts. Ask the persons you are going to help,
whether they prefer a rib, or a piece of the brisket.

For a haunch of venison, first make a deep incision, bypass-
ing your knife all along the side, cutting quite down to the
bone. This is to let out the gravy. Then turn the broad end
of the haunch towards you, and cut it as deep as you can, in
thin, smooth slices, allowing some of the fat to each person.

For a saddle of venison, or of mutton, cut from the tail to
the other end on each side of the back-bone, making very thin
slices, and sending some fat with each. Venison and roast
mutton chill very soon, therefore it is usual to eat it with iron
heaters under the plates. Some heaters are made to contain
hot coals, others are kept warm with boiling water, and some

508 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

are heated by spirits of wine; the last is a very exceptionable
mode, as the blue blaze flaming out all around the plate, is to
many persons frightful. Currant jelly is an indispensable
appendage to venison, and to roast mutton, and to ducks.

A young pig is most generally divided before it comes to
table, in which case, it is not customary to send in the head,
as to many persons it is a revolting spectacle after it is cut off.
When served up whole, first separate the head from the shoul-
ders, then cut off the limbs, and then divide the ribs. Help
some of the stuffing with each piece.

To carve a fowl, begin by sticking your fork in the pinion,

and drawing it towards the leg ; and then passing your knife

underneath, take off the wing at the joint. Next, slip your

knife between the leg and the body, to cut through the joint;

and with the fork, turn the leg back, and the joint will give

way. Then take off the other wing and leg. If the fowl has

been trussed (as it ought to be) with the liver and gizzard,

help the liver with one wing, and the gizzard with the other.

The liver wing is considered the best. After the limbs are

taken off, enter your knife into the top of the breast, and cut

under the merry-thought, so as to loosen it, lifting it with your

fork. Afterwards cut slices from both sides of the breast.

Next take off the collar-bones, which lie on each side of the

merry-thought, and then separate the side-bones from the back.

The breast and wings are considered as the most delicate parts

of the fowl ; the back, as the least desirable, is generally left

in the dish. Some persons, in carving a fowl, find it more

convenient to take it on a plate, and as they separate it, return

each part to the dish; but this is not now the usual way.

A turkey is carved in the same manner as a fowl ; except
that the legs and wings being larger, are separated at the lower
joint. The lower part of the leg, (or drumstick, as it is called,)

CARVING. 509

( eing hard, tough, and stringy, is never helped to any one, but
allowed to remain on the dish. First cut off the wing, leg,
and breast from one side ; then turn the turkey over, and cut
them off from the other.

To carve a goose, separate the leg from the body, by putting
the fork into the small end of the limb ; pressing it close to
the body, and then passing the knife under, and turning the leg
back, as you cut through the joint. To take off the wing, put
your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it closely
to the body ; then slip the knife under, and separate the joint.
Next cut under the merry- thought, and take it off; and then
cut slices from the breast. Then turn the goose, and dismem-
ber the other side. Take off the two upper side-bones, that
are next to the wings; and then the two lower side-bones.
The breast and legs of a goose afford the finest pieces. If a
goose is old, there is no fowl so tough ; and if difficult to carve,
it will be still more difficult to eat.

Partridges, pheasants, grouse, &c., are carved in the same
manner as fowls. Quails, woodcocks, and snipes are merely
split down the back; so also are pigeons, giving a half to each
person.

In helping any one to gravy, or to melted butter, do not pour
it over their meat, fowl, or fish, but put it to one side on a vacant
part of the plate, that they may use just as much of it as they
like,. In filling a plate, never heap one thing on another.

In helping vegetables, do not plunge the spoon down to the
bottom of the dish, in case they should not have been perfectly
well drained, and the water should have settled there.

By observing carefully how it is done, you may acquire a
knowledge of the joints, and of the process of carving, which
a little daily practice will soon convert into dexterity. If a

young lady is ignoran4 of this very useful art, it will be well

43*

510 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

for her to take lessons of her father, or her brother, and a mar-
ried lady can easily learn from her husband. Domestics who
wait at table may soon, from looking on daily, become so ex-
pert that, when necessary, they can take a dish to the side-table
and carve it perfectly well.

At a dinner party, if the hostess is quite young, she is fre-
quently glad to be relieved of the trouble of carving by the
gentleman who sits nearest to her; but if she is familiar with
the business, she usually prefers doing it herself.

-

TO DRAW POULTRY, &c.

THOUGH to prepare poultry for cooking is by no means an
agreeable business, yet some knowledge of it may be very use-
ful to the mistress of a house, in case she should have occasion
to instruct a servant in the manner of doing it ; or in the pos-
sible event of her being obliged to do it herself; for instance,
if her cook has been suddenly taken ill, or has left her unex-
pectedly.

As all poultry is, of course, drawn in the same manner, it
will be sufficient to designate the mode of emptying the inside
of a fowl. In winter, if the fowl is frozen, lay it before the
fire till it has completely thawed. Then have ready one or
more large pieces of waste paper, rolled up loosely into a long
wisp ; lay the fowl down on a clean part of the hearth, and,
taking its legs in your hand, light the paper, and pass it back
and forward above the surface of the skin, (turning the fowl on
both sides,) so as to singe off all the hairs ; doing it so carefully
as not to burn or scorch the skin. There should always be a
quantity of old newspapers, or other ^aste paper, kept in a

TO DRAW POULTRY, ETC. 511

closet or drawer of the kitchen for this and other purposes.
Next, lay the fowl upon its hack on a clean old waiter or tray,
(such as should be kept in every kitchen,) and with a large
sharp knife cut off, first the head, and then the legs at the first
joint. The next thing is to cut a very long slit in the skin at
the right side of the neck, and with your fingers strip down the
skin towards the shoulders, till you come to the craw, which
you must take out with your hand. Then with your knife
make two long deep cuts or incisions on each side of the body,
going downward towards the tail. Put your hand into the cut
or orifice on the right side, and pull out the heart, liver, gizzard,
and then the entrails. Tq?ke care not to break the srall-bao-, or

o o *

its liquor will run over the liver, and make it so bitter that it
cannot be eaten, and should therefore be thrown away without
cooking. Next, to flatten the body, break the breast-bone by
striking on it hard with your hand. Then tuck the legs into
the lower part of the slits that you have cut on each side of the
body. Afterwards with your hand bend or curve inwards trie
end of the neck-bone, and tuck it away under the long loose
piece of skin left there. After this, lay the fowl in a small tub
of cold water, and wash it well inside and out : then dry it
with a clean towel.

Next, cut open the gizzard, empty it of the sand and gravel,
and take out the thick inside skin. Split open the heart, and
let out the blood that is in it. Then carefully cut the gall-bag
from the liver, so as not to break it. Wash clean the heart,
liver, and gizzard, (having trimmed them neatly,) and return
the heart to the inside of the breast; putting back also the eggs,
if you have found any. Have ready the stuffing, and fill up
with it the vacancy from which you have taken the craw. &c.,
pressing it in hard. Next, taking between your thumb and
finger the above-mentioned piece of skin at the top of the neck.

512 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING.

draw it down tightly towards the back of the fowl, (folding it
nicely over the bent end of the neck-bone,) and fasten it down
between the shoulders with a skewer, which must be stuck in so
as to go lengthways down the back. This will prevent any of
the stuffing from getting out, and will keep all compact anJ nice.

Then run a skewer through both the wings and the upper
part of the body, tucking in the liver so as to appear from under
the right pinion, and the gizzard (scoring it first) on the left.
Both pinions must be bent upwards. Lastly, secure all by
tying two strings of small twine tightly round the fowl ; one
just above the skewer that confines the legs; the other just
below that which passes through the wings.

Of course, the strings and skewers are removed before the
poultry is sent to table.

Turkeys, geese, and ducks are always trussed in this man-
ner, the legs being cut off at the first joint. So are fowls for
boilino-. But when fowls are to be roasted, some cooks leave

O '

on the whole of the legs and feet, (scraping and washing them
clean,) and drawing the feet up quite to the breast, where they
are tied together by a string.

Pigeons, pheasants, partridges, &c., are all trussed as above,
with the legs short.

To draw a little roasting pig, cut the body open by one long
slit, and before you take out what is inside, loosen it all with
a sharp knife ; then extract it with your hands. Empty the
head also. Afterwards wash the animal clean, (inside and out,)
and fill the vacancy, with stuffing. Having bent the knees
under, skewer the legs to the body, and secure the stuffing by
tying twine tightly several times round the body; first fasten-
ing the slit by pinning it with a wooden skewer. Having
boiled the liver and heart, chop them to enrich the gravy.

ANIMALS.

Klq
Old

FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE
LARGE ANIMALS ARE DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS.

1. Sirloin.

2. Euinp.

3. Edge Bone.

4. Buttock.

5. Mouse Buttock.

6. Leg.

7. Thick Flank.

8. Veiny Piece.

9. Thin Flank.

10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs.

11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribg

12. Chuck Rib : 2 Ribs.

13. Brisket.

14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece,

15. Clod.

16. Neck, or Sticking Piece.

17. Shin.

18. Cheek.

real.

1. Loin, Best End.

2. Fillet.

8. Loin, Chump End.

4. Hind KmicklP.

5. Neck, Best End.

6. Breast. Best End.

7. Blade Bone.

8. Fore Knuckle.

9. Breast, Brisket Eml.
10. Neck, Scrag End.

514

ANIMALS.

Mutton.

1. Leg.

2. Shoulder.

3. Loin, Best End.

4 I^cin. Chump End.
5. Nec*, Best End.

fi. Breast.

7. Neck, Scra£ End.

Note. A Chine is two Loins; and
a Saddle is two Loins am! two Necka
of the Best End,

Pork.

2. Hind Loin.

3. Fore Loin.

4. Spare Rib.

5. Hand.

6. Spring.

ANIMALS.

515

J'enison.

1. Shoulder.

2. Neck.

3. Haunch.

4. Breast.

5. Scrag.

INDEX.

Acid salt, 427.
Almond cake, 346.
Almond custard, 316.
Almond ice-cream, 326.
Almond maccaroons, 351.
Almond pudding, 2b6.
Another almond pudding, 2S6.
Anchovy catchup, 174.
Anchovy sauce, 164.
Anniseed cordial, 401
Apees, 354.
Apples, baked, 252.
Apple butter, 253.
Apple butter, without cider, 434.
Apple custard, 315.
Apple dumplings, 307.
Apple fritters, 312.
Apple jelly, 253.
Apple and other pies, 281.
Apple pot-pie, 434.
Apples, preserved, 251.
Apple pudding, baked, 305.
Apple pudding, boiled, 306.
Apple sauce, 168.
Apple water, 417.
Apricots, preserved, 247.
Arrow-root blancmange, 329.
Arrow-root jelly, 411.
Arrow-root pudding, 291
Artichokes, to boil, 195.
Asparagus, to boil, 199.
Asparagus soup, 35,

44

Balm of Gilead oil, 425.
Barberry jelly, 270.
Barberries, to pickle, 217.
Barley water, 414.
Bath buns, 344.
Bean soup, 33.
Beans, (dried,) to boil, 197.
Beans, (green or French,) to boil,

197.

Beans, (green,) to pickle, 215.
Beans, (Lima,) to boil, and dry

197.

Beans, (scarlet,) to boil, 197.
Beef, remarks on, 68.
Beef, a la mode, 78.
Beef, baked, 71.
Beef bouilli, 82.
Beef, (corned or salted,) to boil

73.

Beef cakes, 84.
Beef, to corn, 89.
Beef, to dry and smoke, 91.
Beef dripping, to save, 71.
Beef, hashed, 83.
Beef's heart, roasted, 85.
Beef's heart, stewed, 85.
Beef kidney, to dress, 86.
Beef, potted, 92.
Beef, to roast, 69.
Beef soup, fine, 17.
Beef steaks, to broil, 74.
Beef steaks, to fry, 76.

517

518

INDEX.

Beef steak pie, 77.
Beef steak pudding, 76.
Beef, to stew, 80.
Beef, (a round of,) to stew, 80.
Beef, (a round of,) to stew an-
other way, 81.

Beef and tongues, to pickle, 90.
Beef tea, 414.
Beets, to boil, 196.
Beets, to stew, 197.
Beer, (molasses,) 392.
Beer, (sassafras,) 392.
Biscuit, (milk,) 361.
Biscuit, (soda,) 371.
Biscuit, (sugar,) 361.
Biscuit, (tea,) 372.

Bitters, 419.

BJack cake, 338.

Black-fish, to stew, 431.

Blanc-mange, 327.

Blanc-mange, (arrow-root,) 329.

Blanc-mange, (carrageen,) 328.

Bottled small beer, 408.

Bran bread, 377.

Bread, 374.

Bread, (rye and Indian,) 377.

Bread cake, 350.

Bread jelly, 411.

Bread pudding, baked, 299.

Bread pudding, boiled, 298.

Bread and butter pudding, 299.

Bread sauce, 167.

Broccoli, to boil, 188.

Brown soup, rich, 26.

Buckwheat cakes, 367.

Burnet vinegar, 179.

Burns, remedy for, 420.

Butter, to brown, 163.

Butter, melted or drawn, 163

Butter, to make, 379.

Butter, to preserve, 381.

Butternuts, to pickle, 218*.

Cabbage, to boil, 186.

Cabbage, (red,) to pickle, 220.

Cale-cannon, 187.

Calf's feet broth, 415.

Calf's feet, to fry, 103.

Calf's feet jelly, 329.

Calf's head, dressed plain, 100.

Calf's head, hashed, 101.

Calf's head soup, 30.

Calf s liver, fried, 103.

Calf s liver, larded, 103.

Cantelope, preserved, 236.

Caper sauce, 168.

Capillaire, 403.

Carrots, to boil, 189.

Carrot pudding, 290.

Carp, to stew, 65.

Carrageen blanc-mange, 328.

Catfish soup, 36.

Cauliflower, to boil, 187.

Cauliflower, to pickle, 225.

Cayenne pepper, 182.

Celery, to prepare for table, 204,

Celery sauce, 165.

Celery vinegar, 179.

Charlotte, (plum,) 321.

Charlotte, (raspberry,) 320.

Cheese, to make, 382.

Cheese, (cottage,) 386.

Cheese, (sage,) 385.

Cheese, (Stilton,) 385.

Cheesecake, (almond,) 294.

Cheesecake, (common,) 295.

Cherry bounce, 398.

Cherry cordial, 451.

Cherries, (dried,) 270.

Cherry jam, 270.

Cherry jelly, 269.

Cherries, preserved, 268.

Citron melon slices, 269.

Cherry shrub, 398.

Chestnuts, to roast, 204.

Chestnut pudding, 289.

INDEX.

519

Chicken broth and panada, 416.

Chickens, broiled, 142.

Chicken croquets and rissoles, 143.

Chicken curry, 14G.

Chicken dumplings or puddings,

309.

Chickens, fricasseed, 143.
Chicken jelly, 411.
Chicken pie, 144.
Chicken salad, 147.
Chilblains, remedy for, 4.20.
Chili vinegar, ISO.
Chitterlings, or calf's tripe, 102.
Chocolate, to make, 3S7.
Chocolate custard, 317.
Chowder, 55.
Cider cake, 347.
Cider, (mulled,) 407.
Cider vinegar, 409.
Cider wine, 396.

Cinderellas, or German puffs, 297.
Citrons, to preserve, 234.
Clam soup, 39.
Clam soup, (plain,) 40.
Clotted cream, 321.
Cocoa, to prepare, 418.
Cocoa shells, to boil, 418.
Cocoa-nut cakes, 347.
Cocoa-nut cakes, (white,) 353.
Cocoa-nut custard, baked, 317.
Cocoa-nut custard, boiled, 317.
Cocoa-nut jumbles, 353.
Cocoa-nut maccaroons, 352.
Cocoa-nut pudding, 287.
Cocoa-nut pudding, another way,

287.

Codfish, (fresh,) to boil, 50.
Codfish, (fresh,) to boil another

way, 50.

Codfish, salt, to boil, 49.
Coffee, to make, 389.
Coffee, (French,) 390.
Cold cream, 426.

Cold slaw, 22G.

Cold sweet sauce, 170.

Cologne water, 423.

Colouring for confectionary, 333.

Corn, (Indian,) to boil, 192.

Corn, (green,) pudding, 290.

Corns, remedy for, 421.

Cosmetic paste, 427.

Crab-apples, (green.) to preserve,

254.

Crab-apples, (red,) to preserve, 255.
Crabs, (cold,) 65.
Crabs, (hot,) 65.
Crabs, (soft,) 60.
Cranberries, to preserve, 264.
Cranberry sauce, 169.
Cream cake, 372.
Cream, (lemon,) 321.
Cream, (orange,) 321.
Cream, to preserve, 322.
Cream sauce, 170.
Cucumbers, to dress raw, 194,
Cucumbers, to fry, 194.
Cucumbers, to pickle, 213.
Cup cake, 354.
Curagoa, 435.
Curds and whey, 322.
Currant jelly, (black,) 265.
Currant jelly, (red,) 264.
Currant jelly, (white,) 265.
Currant shrub, 397.
Currant wine, 394.
Custard, (boiled,) 314.
Custard, (plain,) 313.
Custard, (rice,) 314.
Custard, (soft,) 314.
Custard pudding, 300.

Dough nuts, 358.
Ducks, to hash, 160.
Ducks, to stew, 150.
Ducks, to roast, 149.
Dumplings, (apple,) 307.

520

INDEX.

Dumplings, (light,) 311.
Dumplings, (plain suet,) 310.
Dumplings, (fine suet,) 309.
Dumplings, (Indian,) 310.
Durable ink, 429.
Durable ink, another way, 430.

Eastern pudding, 306.

!'..'.:% to boil for breakfast, 207.

EggS to fricassee, 208.

S to keep, 206.
Eggs with ham, 123.
Egg nogg, 407.
Eggs, to pack, 26S.
Eggs, to pickle, 432.
Egg plant, to stew, 193.
Egg plant, to fry, 193.
Egg plant, stuffed, 194.
Eggs, raw, 419.
Egg sauce, 167.
Election cake, 348.
Elder-berry wine, 395.
Eider-flower wine, 396.
Essence of lemon peel, 408.
Essence of peppermint, 419.
Eve's pudding, 296.

Family soup, 15.
Federal -cakes, 350.
Flannel cakes, 367.
Flax-seed lemonade, 41S.
Floating island, 320.
Flour, to brown, 163.
Flour hasty-pudding, 301.
Force-meat balls, 161.
Fowls, to boil, 141.
Fowls, to roast, 142.
Fox-grape shrub, 397.
Friar's chicken, 36.
Fritters, (apple,) 312.
Fritters, (plain,) 311.
Frosted fruit, 271.
Fiuit queen-cakes, 342.

General sauce, 173. %
f Gherkins, to pickle, 214.

Ginger, to preserve, 233.

Ginger beer, 391.

Ginger plum-cake, 364.

Gingerbread, (common,) 362.

Gingerbread nuts, 363.

Gingerbread, (Franklin,) 364.

Gingerbread, (white,) 362

Gooseberries, bottled, 262.

Gooseberry custard, 316.

Gooseberry fool, 261.
Gooseberries, to preserve, 260.

Gooseberries, to stew, 261,
Gooseben'y wine, 393.

Goose pie, 152.
Goose pie for Christmas, 153.
Gocse, to roast, 151.
Grapes, in brandy, 266.
Grapes, (wild,) to keep, 267.
Grape jelly, 266.
Gravy, (drawn or made,) 162.
Gravy soup, (clear,) 22.
Ground nuts, to roast, 205.
Ground rice milk, 414.
Grouse, to roast, 158.
Gruel, to make, 413.
Gruel, oatmeal, 413.

Halibut, to boil, 46.

Halibut cutlets, 47.

Ham, to boil, 124.

Ham, to broil, 123.

Ham or bacon, directions for curing,

Ham, (to glaze,) 132.

Ham dumplings, 311.

Ham pie, 122.

Ham sandwiches, 123.

Ham, to roast, 126.

Ham, (Westphalia,) to imitate, 131

Hare or rabbit soup, 28.

Hare, to roast, 137.

Harvey's sauce, 173.

INDEX.

521

Herbs, to dry, 436.
Hominy, to boif^ 192.
Honey cake, 356.
Horseradish vinegar, ISO.
Huckleberry cake, 350.
Hungary water, 424.

Ice cream, (almond,) 326.
Ice cream, (lemon,) 322.
Ice cream, (pine apple,) 325.
Ice cream, (raspberry,) 325.
Ice cream, (strawberry,) 325.
Ice cream, (vanilla,) 325.
Ice lemonade, 326.
Ice orangeade, 326.
Icing for cakes, 338.
Indian batter cakes, 368.
Indian corn, to boil, 192.
Indian dumplings, 310.
Indian flappers, 369.
Indian muffins, 369.
Indian mush, 301.
Indian mush cakes, 368.
Indian pound cake, 340.
Indian pudding, baked, 302.
Indian pudding, boiled, 302.
Indian pudding without eggs, 303.
Italian Cream, 332.
Jaune-mange, 329.
Jelly cake, 344.
Johnny cake, 369.
Julienne (a la) soup, 23.

Kid, to roast, 136.
Kitchen pepper, 182.
Kitchiner's fish-sauce, 172.
Kisses, 354.

Lady cake, 342.
Lamb, to roast, 112.
Larding, 160.
Lavender, compound, 421.
Lavender water, 423.

Laudanum, antidote to, 422.
Lead water, 420.
Lemon brandy, 402.
Lemon catchup, 177.
Lemon cordial, 399.
Lemon cream, 321.
Lemon custard, 315.
Lemon juice, to keep, 408.
Lemon peel, to keep, 437.
Lemon peel, (essence of,) 408.
Lemons, preserved, 241.
Lemon pudding, 285.
Lemon syrup, 398.
Lemonade, 404.
Lettuce or salad, to dress, 203.
Lip salve, 426.
Liver dumplings, 310.
Liver puddings, 128.
Lobster, to boil, 61.
Lobster catchup, 174.
Lobster, to fricassee, 62.
Lobster, to dress cold, 61.
Lobster, pickled, 67.
Lobster, potted, 63.
Lobster pie, 64.
Lobster sauce, 164.
Lobster soup, 37.
Lobster, to stew, 62.

Maccaroni, to dress, 210.
Maccaroni soup, 24.
Maccaroni soup, (rich,) 24.
Maccaroons, (almond,) 351.
Maccaroons, (cocoa-nut,] 352.
Maccaroon custard, 318.
Mackerel, to boil, 48.
Mackerel, to broil, 47.
Mangoes, to pickle, 216.
Marbled veal, 105.
Marlborough pudding, 294.
Marmalade cake, 355.
Mead, 397.

Meg Merrilies' soup, 27.

i "r

522

INDEX.

Milk biscuit, 361.

Miik punch, 405.

MPk soup, 25.

Mince pies, 282.

Mince meat, 283.

Mince meat for Lent, 284.

Mince meat, (very plain,) 284.

Minced oysters, 431.

Mint sauce, 167.

Molasses beer, 392.

Molasses candy, 365.

Molasses posset, 407.

Moravian sugar-cake, 349.

Morella cherries, to pickle, 217.

Mock oysters of corn, 193.

Mock turtle, or calf's head soup,

30.

Muffins, (common,) 370.
Muffins, (Indian,) 369.
Muffins, (water,) 370.
Mulled cider, 407.
Mulled wine, 407.
' Mulligatawny soup, 29.
Mush, (Indian,) to make, 301.
Mush cakes, 368.
Mushrooms, to broil, 202.
Mushroom catchup, 176.
Mushrooms, to pickle brown, 223.
Mushrooms, to pickle white, 222.
Mushroom sauce, 166.
Mushrooms, to stew, 201.
Musquito bites, remedy for, 421.
Mustard, (common,) 181.
Mustard, (French,' 181.
Mustard, (keeping,) 181.
Mutton, to boil, 107.
Mutton broth, 414.
Mutton broth made quickly, 415.
Mutton, (casserole of,) 111.
Mutton chops, broiled, 108.
Mutton chops, stewed, 110.
Mutton cutlets, k la Maintenon,

109

Mutton harico, 111.
Mutton, hashed, lift
Mutton, (leg of,) stewed, 111.
Mutton, to roast, 106.
Mutton soup, (including cabbage
and noodle soups,) 19.

Nasturtians, to pickle, 217.
Nasturtian sauce, 165.
New York cookies, 360.
Nougat, 365.
Noyau, 402.

Oatmeal gruel, 413.

Ochra soup, 32.

Oil of flowers, 425.

Omelet, (plain,) 209.

Omelet souffle, 209.

Onions, to boil, 198.

Onions, to fry, 199.

Onions, to pickle, 221.

Onions, pickled white, 222.

Onions, to roast, 198.

Onion sauce, (brown,) 166.

Onion sauce, (white,) 166.

Onion soup, 416.

Orangeade, 404.

Orange cream, 321.

Orange jelly, 243.

Orange marmalade, 243.

Orange pudding, 285.

Orgeat, 403.

Ortolans, to roast, 159.

Oyster catchup, 185.

Oysters, fried, 57.

Oyster fritters, 59.

Oysters, minced, 431.

Oysters, pickled, 57.

Oysters, pickled for keeping, 228.

Oyster pie, 60.

Oysters, scolloped, 58.

Oysters, stewed. 59.

Oyster soup, 38.

INDEX.

r.o

23

Oyster soup, (plain,) 38.
Ox-tail soup, 32.
Oyster Sauce, 170.
Panada, 4 13.
Panada, (chicken,) 416.
Pancakes, (plain,) 312.
Pancakes, (sweetmeat,) 313.
Parsley, to pickle, 215.
Parsley sauce, 168.
Parsnips, to boil, 190.
Partridges, to roast, 158.
Partridges, to roast another way,

158.

Paste, (dripping,) 275.
Paste, (lard,) 275.
Paste, (the best plain,) 272.
Paste, (potato,) 276.
Paste, (fine puff,) 276.
Paste, (suet,) 274.
Paste, (sweet,) 277.
Peaches, (in brandy,) 245.
Peach cordial, 401.
Peaches, (dried,) 248.
Peaches for common use, 245.
Peach jelly, 247.
Peach kernels, 437.
Peach marmalade, 246.
Peaches, to pickle, 217.
Peaches, to preserve, 244.
Peach sauce, 169.
Peas, (green,) to boil, 198.
Peas soup, 34.
Peas soup, (green,) 34.
Pears, to bake, 259.
Pears, to preserve, 259.
Peppers, (green,) to pickle, 214,

218.

Peppers, (green,) to preserve 238.
Pepper pot, 87.
Perch, to fry, 52.
Pheasants, to roast, 158.
Pheasants, to roast another way,

158.
Pine-apple-ade, 410.

Pies, 279.

Pie crust, (common,) 274.

Pies, (standing,) 280.

Pies, (apple and other,) 281.

Pickle, (East India,) 227.

Pig, to roast, 115.

Pig's feet and ears, soused, 131.

Pigeon or chicken dumplings, 309.

Pigeon pie, 157.

Pigeons, to roast, 156.

Pilau, 147.

Pine-apple ice cream, 325.

Pine-apples, (fresh,) to prepare for

eating, 241.

Pine-apples, to preserve, 240.
Plovers, to roast, 159.
Plum charlotte, 321.
Plums for common use, 258.
Plums, to preserve, 257.
Plums,(egg,) to preserve whole, 258.
Plums, (green gage,) to preserve,

256.

Plum pudding, baked, 303.
Plum pudding, boiled, 304.
Poke, to boil, 200.
Pomatum, (soft,) 426.
Pork and beans, 120.
Pork cheese, 130.
Pork, (corned,) to boil, 118.
Pork, (pickled,) to boil with peas

pudding, 119.
Pork cutlets, 121.
Pork, (leg of,) to roast, 116.
Pork, (loin of,) to roast, 117.
Pork, (middling piece,) to roast, 1 17.
Pork pie, 122.
Pork steaks, 120.
Pork, to stew, 118.
Port wine jelly, 412.
Pot pie, 145.
Pot pie, (apple,) 434.
Potatoes, to boil, 183.
Potatoes, to fry, JS5.

524

INDEX.

Potatoes, roasted, 185.

Potato pudding, 289.

Potato snow, 185.

Pound cake, 339.

Prawns, to boil, 64.

Prune pudding, 296.

Pudding catchup, 435.

Pumpkin, to boil, 191.

Pumpkin chips, 238.

Pumpkin pudding, 288.

Pumpkin yeast, 378.

Punch, 404.

Punch, (frozen,) 405.

Punch, (milk,) 405.

Punch, (fine milk,) 405.

Punch, (regent's,) 405.

Punch, (Roman,) 405.

Pyramid of tarts, 280.

Pink sauce, 173.

Quails, to roast, 158.

Queen cake, 341.

Quin's sauce for fish, 172.

Quince cheese, 251.

Quince cordial, 400.

Quince jelly, 250.

Quince marmalade, 250.

Quinces, preserved, 248.

Quinces, to preserve whole, 249.

Quince pudding, 285.

Rabbits, fricasseed, 138.
Rabbits, to fry, 139.
Rabbits, to stew, 138.
Radishes, to prepare for table, 204.
Radish pods, to pickle, 215.
Raspberry charlotte, 320.
Raspberry cordial, 180.
Raspberry ice-cream, 325.
Raspberry jam, 263.
Raspberries, to preserve, 262.
R.aspberry vinegar, ISO.
Raspberry wine, 395.
Ratafia, 403.

Raw egg, 419.

Reed birds, to roast, 159.

Rennet whey, 415.

Rhubarb tarts, 282.

Rice, to boil, 202.

Rice, to boil for curry 146,

Rice custard, 314.

Rice cakes, 372.

Rice dumplings, 308.

Rice flummery, 433.

Rice jelly, 412.

Rice pudding, boiled, 293.

Rice pudding, (farmer's,) 293.

Rice pudding, (ground,) 291

Rice pudding, (plain,) 292.

Rice pudding, (plum,) 292.

Rice milk, 293.

Rije milk, (ground,) 414.

Ringworms, remedy for, 421.

Rock-fish, to boil, 51.

Rock-fish, to pickle, 52.

Rolls, (common,"} 373.

Rolls, (French,) 373.

Rose brandy, 402.

Rhubarb jam, 271.

Rose cordial, 399.

Rose vinegar, 424.

Rusk, 361.

Russian or Swedish turnip, to boil,

190.

Rye and Indian bread, 377.
Soup a la Lucy, 489.
Sago, 412.
Sago pudding, 290.
Salad, to dress, 203.
Sour milk, 455.

Salmon, (fresh,) to bake whole, 44.
Salmon, (fresh,) to bake in slices, 44.
Salmon, (fresh,) to boil, 43.
Salmon, (pickled,) 45.
Salmon, (smoked,) 46.
Salmon steaks, 45.
Sally Lunn cake, 371.

INDEX.

r.o r

».).— O

Salsify, to dress, 195.

Sandwiches, (ham,) 123.

Sangaree, 407.

Sassafras beer, 392.

Sausage meat, (common,) 129.

Sausages, (fine,) 129.

Sausages, (Bologna,) 130.

Suvoy biscuits, 351.

Scented bags, 428.

Scotch cake, 356.

Scotch queen-cake, 356.

Scotch sauce for fish, 171.

P^a hass or black-fish, boiled, 52.

Sea bass, fried, 54.

Sea catchup, 178.

Sea kale, to boil, 199.

Secrets, 355.

Spidlitz powders, 419.

Shad, baked, 60.

Shad, to fry, 51.

Shalot vinegar, 180,

Shells, 278.

Short cakes, 371.

Shrub, (cherry.) 398.

Shrub, (currant,) 397.

Shrub, (fox-^rape,) 397

Smelts, to fry, 431.

Snowball custard, 315.

Snipes, to roast 157.

Soda, biscuit^ 371.

Soda water, 419.

Spanish buns, 343.

Spinach, to boil, 188

Spinach and eggs 188.

Sponge cake, 345.

Spruce beer, 391.

Squashes or cyinlings, to boil, 191.

Squash, (winter,) to boil, 191.

Squash pudding, 288.

Strawberries, preserved, 267.

Strawberry ice-cream, 325.

Strawberry cordial, 400.

Sturgeon cutlets, 54.

Sherry Cobler, 406,

Suet pudding, 300.

Sugar biscuit, 360.

Sugar syrup, clarified, 232.

Sweet basil vinegar, 179.

Sweet jars, 428.

Sweet sauce, (cold,) 170.

Sweet potatoes, boiled, 186.

Sweet potatoes, fried, 186.

Sweet potato pudding, 289.

Sweetbreads, to broil, 432.

Sweetbreads, larded, 104.

Sweetbreads, to roast, 104.

Syllabub or whipt cream, 318.

Syllabub, (country,) 319.

Shrewsbury cake, 433.

Tamarind water, 417.

Tapioca, 412.

Tarragon vinegar, 179.

Tea, to make, 388.

Terrapins, 66.

Thieves' vinegar, 424.

Toast and water, 417.

Tomatas, to bake, 200.

Tomata catchup, 177.

Tomatas, to keep, 437.

Tomatas, to pickle, 223.

Tomatas. to stew, 200.

1 omata soy, 224.

Tongue, (salted or pickled,) to boil,

89.

Tongue, (smoked,) to boil, 88.
Trifle, 319.
Tripe, to boil, 86.
Tripe, to fry, 87.
Tripe and ovstors, 87.
Trout, to boil, 54.
Trout, to fry, 53.
Turkev, to boil, 156.
Tuikey, to roast, 154.
Turkish sherbet, 408
Turnips, to boil, 189.

Veal, (breast of,} to stew, 95.

INDEX.

Veal, (breast of,) to roast, 94.

Veal cutlets, 97.

Veal, (fillet of,) to stew, 96.

Veal, (fillet cf,) to roast, 94.

Veal, (knuckle of,) to stew, 96.

Veal, (loin of,) to roast, 93.

Veal, (minced,) 98.

Veal patties, 99.

Veal pie, 99.

Veal soup, 21.

Veal soup, (rich,) 21.

Veal steaks, 98.

Veal or chicken tea, 414.

Vegetable soup, 416.

Venison hams, 136.

Venison, (cold,) to hash, 134.

Venison pasty, 135.

Venison, to roast, 133.

Venison soup, 28.

Venison steaks, 135.

Vermicelli soup 25.

Vinegar (cider,) 409.

Vinegar, (sugar,) 410.

Vinegar, (white,) 409.

Vklet perfume, 429.

Wafer cakes, 357.

Waffles, 359.

Walnut catchup, 175.

Walnuts, pickled black, 219.

Walnuts, pickled green, 221.

Walnuts, pickled white, 220.

Warm slaw, 226.

Warts, remedy for, 421.

Washington cake, 347.

Watermelon rind, to preserve, 237.

Water souchy, 41.

Welsh rabbit, 387.

White soup, (rich,) 26.

Wine jelly, 406.

Wine sauce, 169.

Wine whey, 415.

Wonders or crullers, 357.

Woodcocks, to roast, 159.

Yam pudding, 289.
Yeast, (bakers'.) 379.
Yeast, (bran,) 378.
Yeast, (common,) 377.
Yeast, (patent,) 435.
Yeast, (pumpkin,) 378.

NEW RECEIPTS.

Almond bread, 448.

Almond paste, 430.

Apple bread pudding, 462.

Apple custard, 463.

Apple compote, 455.

Apple dumplings, (baked,) 443.

Apple pandowdy, 498.

Apple pork, 504.

Apple rice pudding, 443.

Batter pudding,. 440.
Biscuit ice cream, 467.
Blood, to stop. 422.
Boston cream cakes, 458.
Bran batter-cakes, 462.

Calf s head soup, (fine,) 484.
• Calves' feet soup, 484.
Carving, 490.
Charlotte Polonaise, 454.
Charlotte Russe, 452.
Charlotte Russe, (fine,) 471.
Cherry cordial, 451.
Chicken salad, (French,) 481.
Cider cake, (plain,) 445.
Citron cakes, 457.
Cinnamon cake, 501.
Clams, (baked,) 486.
Clam soup, (fine,) 486.
Clove cakes, 460.
Cocoa-nut candy, 491.
Cocoa-nut pudding, (West In-
dia,) 464.

Coffee custard, 472.
Connecticut loaf cake, 459.
Cookies, (fine,) 461.
Ctfrn starch blancmange, 500.
Cream cheese, 447.
Croquant cake, 478.

Cucumbers, (preserved,) 442.
Cup cake, (Indian,) 462.
Custard cakes, 448.

Farina, 502.
Figs, (preserved,) 493.
Fresh eggs, (to keep,) 488.
Frozen custard, 450.
Frozen meat, (to thaw,) 502.

Gelatine jelly, 465.
Giblet soup, 438.
Gingerbread, (soft,) 461.
Glycerine, 499.
Grape water-ice, 470.
Green corn muffins, 496.
Green ointment, 422.
Green pea soup, (French,) 438.
Green tomatas, (preserved,)
492.

Gumbo, 439.
Gumbo soup, 432.

Ham, (baked,) 496.

Ham omelet, 439.

Hashed veal, 480.

Hoe cake, 445.

Honey ginger-cake, 449.

Honey paste for the hands, 449.

Ice cream, (common,) 451.
Indian loaf cake, 444.

Keeping meat, &c., in summer,
502.

Lemon drops, 366.
Lemon syrup, (fine,) 477.

Lemon water-ic«, 469.

527

528 NEW RECEIPTS.

Limes, or small lemons, (pre- Potato yeast, 446.

served,) 473. Poultry, (to draw, &c.,) 494.

Pumpkin pie, (New England,)

Maccaroon ice cream, 467. 464.

Milk toast, 44Q, Peaches, (to keep,) 495.
Mint julep, 490.

Molasses pie, 489. Raspberry water-ice, 469.

Mushroom sweetbreads, 497. Rock cake, 449.
Musquitoes, to keep off, 500.

Myrtle oranges, to preserve, 493. Salt pork, (to stew,) 504.

Sassafras mead, 478.

Normandy soup, 482. Shad, (broiled,) 503.

Strawberries, (to keep,) 494.

Orange cake, 456. Strawberry water-ice, 469.

Orange drops, 476. Sweet potatoes, (compote of,)

Orange water-ice, 468. 497.
Oysters, (fine stewed,) 487.

Oysters, (spiced,) 488. Tennessee muffins, 445.

Toast, (to make,) 505.

Pancake ham, 497. Tomatas, (broiled,) 441.

Peach leather, 271. Tomata catchup, (fine,) 479.

Peach mangoes, 440. Tomata honey, 441.

Peach water-ice, 470. Tomata pickles, (green,) 480.

Pearlash, to keep, 430. Tomata pickles, (red,) 480.

Peppermint drops, 366. Tomatas, (preserved,) 441.

Pine-apple marmalade, 476. Tomata soup, 483.
Pine-apple water-ice, 470.

Pink champagne jelly, 452. Union pudding, 490.

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PRACTICAL PAINTER, VARNISHER, AND GILDER'S GUIDE,

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Scott's Miscellanies, 3 vols., cloth, gilt 2 50

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Three Hours, or the Vigil of Love, by Mrs. Hale, 12mo.. 75

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Walker's Manipulations in the Scientific Arts, cloth 62

WALTER AND SMITH'S GUIDE TO WORKERS IN '

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