Historic, Archive Document

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Pho7te or Write for Our Representative-^

Price List of

All Home- Grown Stock

For Sale by

Monthan Bros

' ■ Tucson, Arizona

Nurseries:

La Cienega, Vail, Ariz. , Tanque Verde, Ariz.

9161 n m

MAR 1 4 19 10

T^e^^Seasons Among Many Why You Should Buy Your

Trees at Home

<0

It should be hardly necessary to call the attention of prospective Treebuyers to the advantages of pur- chasing their trees from their local nursery. In our dry, hot climate it is of first importance to plant ac- climatized trees, when they can possibly be obtained. Comparatively few of the trees commonly planted here are natives of this country, many of them com- ing from totally different climates, and there are al- ways a number of weak or unsuitable individuals of their kind which will not endure our climatic con- ditions. By raising the trees here these are weeded out, as they die off during cultivation, leaving only the stronger and better adapted trees. In a less try- ing climate these unsuitable trees would grow and make saleable stock, but they would not even then be adapted to our climate. This fact accounts for the loss of many imported trees the first season after planting. Even the hardier imported trees require some time to get acclimated before they make much growth.

BY BUYING YOUR TREES AT HOME YOU GET THE BENEFIT OF THE NATURAL SELECTION OUTLINED ABOVE.

Another important point is the short time the trees are out of the ground, lessening the shock of trans- planting, and avoiding all risk of the stock drying out, or being otherwise damaged in transportation.

BY BUYING YOUR TREES AT HOME YOU AVOID ALL SHIPPING RISKS, AND THE STOCK REACHES YOU IN BETTER CONDITION.

Then there is the saving in price to be considered. Our prices are the same as the same grade of stock would cost in California or elsewhere: and so you save the transportation charges, v/hich are usually no small item.

BY BUYING YOUR TREES AT HOME YOU SAVE ALL TRANSPORTATION CHARGES.

A Few Hints on the Planting anti Care of Trees in South- ern Arizona

It is impossible in the space at our disposal to en- ter into a long discussion on the planting and care of trees, but we will simply mention a few of the details wherein the practice in this locality differs from that in other sections of the country, and wherein, as our experience shows us, inexperienced planters usually err.

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(1) All deciduous trees (those that shed their leaves in winter) should he set out during January and February, while evergreens should not be moved until March or even April, after the heavy frosts are over. Roses should be planted early in January.

These dates vary somewhat with the seasons and the species of the tree, and customers who are inex- perienced will do well to trust to our judgment as to the proper time to plant.

(2) iWhen digging tree-holes in “caliche” (these are usually made four to five feet in diameter) con- tinue them down, wherever possible, to gravel or other loose ground in order to provide drainage. To shake up the bottom of each hole with a small charge of dynamite is also very desirable. Trees in these tree-holes need idrainage just as much as your potted plants do.

Use the best soil obtainable for filling the holes, rejecting all broken “caliche.”

Manure should not be used in tree-holes unless its use is thoroughly understood. Large numbers of trees are killed yearly in this manner. However, in the case of a very deep hole, some well-rotted ma- nure may be used in the bottom, as the roots will not reach it for some time.

Dead leaves, trash, small quantities of chip-dirt, or other well-rotted vegetable matter, can be mixed through the soil if desired, but good judgment should be displayed in the amount used. The safer method, however, is to use plain soil only in the holes when planting, and to apply fertilizers after the tree is es- tablished, by allowing them to seep down to the roots with the irrigation water.

(3) When our trees are delivered to you, if you are not ready to plant them at, once, do not leave them in the bundles or bales, but immediately re- move all packing material from the roots and “heel them in” by digging a hole and burying the roots in moist soil, covering well up onto the stems of the trees. In this way the trees will keep perfectly un- til you are ready to plant them. Keep the roots of trees moist while handling, and expose them to the air as little as possible.

When trees are balled in cans do not plant the can whole, but after placing the can in the hole, cut away the sides of it, leaving the bottom to rot in the ground. In doing this be careful not to break the ball of dirt. Trees that are balled in burlap should be planted just as delivered, care only being taken to cut the string aroun'd' the stem of the tree oefore pulling in the dirt. The burlap will rot very soon under ground.

(4) After a tree is planted and before it starts to grow, keep the soil damp, but do not irrigate it heavily every day, thus keeping the soil in a sodden condition.

See that each tree has a large deep basin around it for irrigation purposes, and never attempt to irri- gate trees with a lawn sprinkler. In this basin place a mulch or layer about four inches thick of manure, sawdust, or even sand. This prevents the soil baking in the sun, thereby saving water, and keeps the roots cool.

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When you wish to irrigate, turn on the water until you are sure that the ground' is thoroughly wet down as far as the roots extend, and then withhold it until the top few inches of soil begin to show the need of it. Where drainage exists there is no danger of ap- plying too much water at one time, but it should not be applied too often, so that the ground remains in a sodden condition.

Roughly speaking trees should be irrigated at inter- vals varying from once or twice a week during the very hottest time of the year, to once a month dur- ing the coolest. This of course varies somewhat with the nature of the soil and the kind of trees.

(5) We usually cut-back, ready for planting, all trees over a certain size, but in the case of small trees and shrubs to which this has not been done, care should be taken to cut them back at least one- third. This is very important.

Roses should be cut-back at least one-half, and all small wood shoud be cut away, as in our climate it will usually dry up before the plant starts to grow. Severe cutting will do no harm but will only tend to make the gi'owth more vigorous.

Roses like a rather heavy, rich soli, and do best planted in the open, for although they appreciate shade during the hot months, they need all the sun possible during their blooming seasons in the Spring and Fall of the year. This does not mean, however, that climbing or other roses should be planted against a brick wall with a southern exposure, as in such a position the heat of the sun will surely burn them during the Summer. The pruning of roses when they are once established should never be neglected, and while dormant about January they should be cut- back severely, the more vigorous growers being pruned the heaviest. When they cease blooming in the early 'Summer they should receive another prun- ing, but this time a very light one, and from then, until the cooler weather of the Summer rains arrives, their growth should be hindered by a somewhat stinted suppl}^ of wmter. This treatment will result in a profusion of bloom in the Fall of the year.

(6) About the end of September begin to prepare for frost by applying very little water, especially to Evergreens, in order to harden the young wood re- sulting from the rapid growth that takes place in the Fall of the year.

All growth of Evergreens should have ceased, through lack of water, by the end of October, when frost may be expected. As soon as the cold weather has set in, begin to irrigate the Evergreens again, just sufRcient to keep the soil moist, and continue to do so through the winter. This treaunoni of Ever- greens will prevent injury by frost, as far as it is possible to do so.

Deciduous trees need only be given an occasional irrigation through the Winter, to prevent the soil from 'becoming absolutely dry.

We take every precaution to have each tree and plant true to label. If from any fault of ours a tree is not so, we will replace it, but it is understood that under no circumstances are we liable for more than the value of the tree in question.

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Monthan Brothers

Price List of Trees and Plants Suitable for Southern Arizona

The following list includes practically all the trees that so-far have proved hardy in this climate, and that are usually planted here. It offers a good selec- tion of various types for all ordinary planting. As all have been proved here, there is no need for the pur- chaser to experiment with unknown and unproved varieties. Some people find great pleasure in thus experimenting, but the average Tree-Buyer, who only demands results for his expenditure and time, will do well to stick to the kinds that have been thoroughly tried out, especially since they offer such a varied selection of all types for all purposes.

THE FOLLOWING PRICES ARE FOR SINGLE TREES— SPECIAL PRICES ON QUANTITIES

Deciduous Shade Trees

TEXAS UMBRELLA — Well known throughout the Southwest, where it is by far the most popular shade tree. Dense, round, umbrella-shaped head with dark green leaves. I to 3 years.. 50c to $1.25

COTTONWOOD — This is the staminate kind that sheds no cotton. We have a special variety of this tree from Mexico, which is a faster grower than the native variety, and has a much larger leaf, with a clean white bark. This is a very fine tree, par- ticularly useful in the rear of houses, where an ex- tremely quick-growing large shade tree is desira- ble. Should be given plenty of water.

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.25

ARIZONA ASH — ^A native of this country and the only Ash worth planting here. One of the best trees for street-planting and which is very popular for this purpose all over the Southwest.

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.25

ARIZONA WALNUT — This is our native Walnut, which is being used so largely as a stock, on which to graft the English and French Walnuts. The trees can be planted first and grafted later after

they are established. 1 to 3 years 50c to $1.25

RUSSIAN MULBERRY— The best Mulberry for shade in this climate. A very hardy quick-growing tree, with large spreading head. Useful for chicken yards. Stands drought well.

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

DOWNING MULBERRY — One of the best Mulberries for fruit. It is a rapid grower arm makes a good

shade tree. 1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

WEEPING RUSSIAN MULBERRY— A weeping tree of medium size and very graceful, with long slend- er branches drooping to the ground $1.25

WEEPING WILLOW — ^A well-known, highly-ornamen- tal tree with drooping branches. Does well here with plenty of water. 1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

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LOMBARDY POPLAR — A tall spire-like tree with dense bright-green foliage and large leaves. Grows very rapidly but requires plenty of water. A good tree for a wind-break. 1 to 3 years .... 50c to $1.00 SILVER POPLAR — Similar in shape and require- ments to the Lombardy Poplar, but the foliage is not so dense. Has large glossy leaves, green above

and silver beneath. 1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

BALM OF GILEAD — A Poplar with a broad spreading head, large leaves and greenish bark. A very fine

tree. 1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

CAROLINA POPLAR — Has an upright pyramidal head and large glossy green leaves with white bark. A very rapid grower under favorable conditions.

1 to 3 years. 50c to $1.00

CATALPA — Has a spreading head with large heart- shaped leaves. Bears immense clusters of white and blue flowers freely in Spring.

1 to 3 years '50c to $1.00

BLACK LOCUIST — A very hardy quick-growing tree with spreading branches, bearing white flowers in

Spring. 1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

HONEY LOCUST (Spineless) — A rapid-growing or- namental tree with a loose open head and acacia- like foliage. Is very graceful.

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

AILANTHUS (Tree of Heaven) — A purely ornamen- tal tree with long fern-like leaves. Grows quickly.

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

ELM (European) — The best of the Elms for this lo- cality. Grows rather slowly but is one of the hand- somest of all trees. 1 tO’ 3 years 50c to $1.00

SYCAMORE (Arizona) — ^A very handsome native tree but is not a rapid grower. Needs plenty of water.

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

SYCAMORE (Oriental) — A somewhat faster grower than the native variety, but needs better conditions and more care. FWill not do well on “caliche.”

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

PURPLE-LEAVED PLUM (Pissardi)— Useful and or- namental. Has rich purple and bronze foliage and bears a good quality of fruit.

1 to 3 years . 50c to $1.00

DESERT WILLOW — A native tree with fine willow- like foliage. Flowers profusely in the Spring.

1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

BOX ELDER — The only Maple that will grow in our climate. Does well under favorable conditions as

to water and soil. 1 to 3 years 50c to $1.00

ELDER (Native Mexican) — Very popular. Grows all winter and is green by Christmas. White flowers in Spring. Can be trained as either tree or shrub. We can recommend this. 2 years 75c

Evergreen Shade Trees

PEPPER TREE — One of the most popular Ever- green trees all through the Southwest. The droop- ing feathery foliage is particularly graceful. This tree is very sensitive to overwatering, especially when newly planted. In cans, 1 to 2 years, 50c to 75c. Field Grown, 4 to 8 feet 50c to $1.25

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ARIZONA CYPRESS — A splendid native ornamental tree of pyramidal habit. Bluish-green foliage. A good grower and very hardy. When once estab- lished this tree will exist without irrigation, on our rainfall alone, although of course under such con- ditions the growth will be very slow.

Balled 3 to 6 feet $1.00 to $2.00

The three kinds of Cypress trees listed here de- serve planting extensively. They are among the fin- est of ornamental evergreens and are never damaged by frost. Their style of foliage contrasts well with other trees, and they never fail to attract attention Wherever planted. They will grow better during the first summer after planting if shaded somewhat dur- ing the hot weather.

MONTEREY CYPRESS— The well-known Californian Cypress with dense dark green foliage. Contrasts well with the Arizona Cypress.

Balled, 4 to 6 feet $1.00 to $1.50

In cans 50c to 75c

ITALIAN CYPRESS (Pillar Cypress)— A tall taper- ing form with branches growing parallel with the trunk. Balled, 3 to 5 feet $1.00 to $1.50

ARBOR VITAE (Chinese) — A low, bushy, symmetri- cal tree of pyramidal shape. An excellent orna- mental for a small yard or for formal planting. Balled, 2 to 5 feet 75c to $1.50

INDIAN CEDAR (Cedrus Deodara) — The handsomest of all coniferous trees, but is rather slow-growing in our climate. For best results should be shaded dur- ing the summer while small.

Balled, 2 to 5 feet $1.00 to $3.00

STERCULIA (Bottle Tree or Australian Poplar)— Of upright, tapering habit. Leaves change shape con- tinually. An excellent tree for street-planting. Balled, 6 to 8 feet $1.00 to $1.50

CASUARINA (Beefwood) — A rapid-growing, tall, up- right tree with drooping branches, bearing dark green, needle-like leaves. A very handsome orna- mental tree, growing well in any kind of soil. Is very hardy and stands considerable alkali and more cold than most Evergreens. Can also be used as a hedge plant. In cans, 1 and 2 years 50c to 75c

EUCALYPTUS — We handle three varieties of these well-known trees. (1) E. Rudis or the Desert Gum. (2) E. Tereticorriis or the Forest Red Gum. (3) E. Rostrata or the Red Gum. These are the three best varieties for this climate. We do not recommend Eucalyptus for planting where “ca- liche” exists, but in the warmer sections with good deep soil and plenty of water they do well and grow very rapidly. In cans 25c to 50c

PALO VERDE (Bagote) — A curious native tree with bright green bark and feathery drooping branches. Is covered with yellow flowers in the Spring. Is ornamental and will stand extreme drought.

In cans 25c to 50c

.LOQUAT — A low-growing .Japanese fruit tree with large rough glaucous leaves. Is simply an orna- mental here as the fruit does not ripen.

Balled, 2 to 4 feet $1.00 to $1.50

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Palms

CALIFORNIA FAN PALM (Washicgtonla Filifera)— The only hardy large-growing Fan Palm for this locality. A very rapid grower. Can be used for street planting if desired.

Balled, 2 and 3 years $1.00 to $1.'50

ORNAMENTAL DATE PALM (Phoenix Canariensis) — One of the handsomest of all Palms with dark green pinnate leaves. Is not quite so hardy as the Fan Palm and is a slower grower. Also requires more room and cannot be used for ordinary street- planting. Is very popular and makes, an excellent

tub plant. Balled, 3 and 4 years $1.00 to $2.00

DATE PALM (Phoenix Dactylifera) — This tree pro- duces the date fruit but about one-half of the trees are staminate and do not bear fruit; and as these cannot be distinguished until they reach blossom- ing age, there is no certainty of obtaining a fruit- ing tree. This tree is not as desirable for orna- mental planting as the “Ornamental Date” listed

above. Balled, 3 to 4 years $1.00 to $2.0'0

WINDMILL PALM (Chamaerops Excelsa) — A Fan Palm with a slim hairy stem and dark green deeply- cut leaves. Is very hardy but of slow growth.

Balled, 3 to 5 years $1.50 to $2.50

SAGO PALM (Cycas Revoluta) — Has a round stem or bulb surmounted by dark green pinnate leaves shaped like ostrich feathers. Is used chiefly in pots or tubs for porch or room decoration.

In pots or cans 75c to $1.00

Roses

The following are the best tested varieties for our climate, all growing and blooming well here. We have however small stocks of many other varieties. 1 year, 25c; 2 year, 35c.

American Beautj^ (crimson).

La France (silvery pink).

Perle des Jardins (yellow).

Marie van Houtte (pale yellow).

Bessie Brown (creamy white).

Gen. Jacqueminot (crimson).

Frau Carl Druschki (pure white).

La Detroit (shell-pink).

Gruss an Teplitz (dark crimson).

Kaiserin A. V. (white).

Etoile de France (dark crimson).

Paul Neyron (rose).

Helen Gould (carmine).

Bridesmaid (pink).

Catherine Mermet (rosy-flesh).

Papa Gontier (red).

Maman Cochet (pink).

Aurora (light pink).

Sunburst (yellow).

Mad. Segond Weber (flesh-pink).

Mad. Abel Chatenay (rose).

Ulrich Brunner (cherry-red).

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Monthan Brothers

White La France (pearly-white).

Mad. Leon Pain (salmon-pink).

Lady Battersea (cherry-crimson).

Cecil Brunner (salmon-pink).

iMad. Jules Grolez (rose).

Duchess of Albany (deep pink).

CLIMBING ROSES

35c to 50c each.

Climb. Bridesmaid (pink).

Climb. Kaiserin A. V. (white).

Climb. Papa Gontier (red).

Climb. Perle des Jardins (yellow).

Gold of Ophir (yellow).

Dorothy Perkins (shell-pink).

Keystone (lemon-yellow).

Cherokee (double-white).

Banksia (white).

Climb. American Beauty (crimson).

Climb. Gruss and Teplitz (dark crimson).

Climb. Helen Gould (carmine).

Climb. Cecil Brunner (salmon-pink).

Cloth of Gold (yellow).

Customers who are unacquainted with the different varieties of Roses can, if they wish, leave the selec- tion of varieties to us, simply stating whether the Roses are for cutting, hedges or bedding. We will undertake to satisfy them.

Deciduous Shnibs

POMEGRANATE (Fruiting) — A well-known fruiting shrub much used for hedges, per hundred. .. .$6.00

POMEGRANATE (Flowering) — A very handsome shrub with shining green leaves and large double red and white flowers 50c

TAMARISK — ^A very hardy shrub with fine feathery foliage tipped with large spikes of small pink fiow- ers. Will stand considerable alkali. Is useful for hedges or screens. We have several varieties. .50c Smaller plants for hedges, per dozen $2.00

POINCIANA (Bird of Paradise) — ^An extremely hardy shrub wtih acacia-like foliage. Flowers all sum- mer, bearing large yellow pea-shaped flowers with protruding red stamens. IWill grow anywhere. .60c

ALTHEA (Rose of Sharon) — A pretty, very free-flow- ering shrub blooming during the hot weather when flowers are scarce. Several colors 50c

FLOWERING QUINCE (Japanese) — The earliest shrub to bloom in the Spring with semi-double scarlet flowers and glossy green foliage 50c

LILAC — This well-known popular shrub can be grown successfully in this climate, but requires considera- ble care and attention and prefers some shade dur- ing the hot weather 50c

CRAPE MYRTLE — A summer-flowering shrub bear- ing peculiar crimped pink flowers at the end of each branch 50o

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LEMON VERBENA — An oM-fasliioned shrub grown

chiefly for the fragrance of its foliage 50c

OSAGE ORANGE — A very hardy shrub with sharp thorns. Will make a stock-proof hedge.

Per 100 $6.00

Evergreen Shrubs

OLEANDER — ^A very popular evergreen flowering shrub. We grow the two best varieties: double-red and double-white. Balled, $1.00 to $1.50

CALIFORNIA PRIVET — The best of all evergreen hedge plants with shining green foliage. This va- riety should be planted where a trimmed hedge of

medium height is desired. Per 100 $6.00

Specimens 50c

JAPANESE PRIVET — Has a larger leaf than the Cal. Privet. Is more useful for a tall screen than a hedge as it is difficult to keep it trimmed low enough for the latter. Both these Privets when planted ajone make excellent specimen plants and can be trimmed into any shape desired.

Per 100 $10.00

Specimens 75c

EIJONYMUS (Japonicus) — Very effective as a speci- men shrub. Has dark lustrous green leaves some- times variegated with yellow. Stands trimming well. Prefers a somewhat shady place.

Balled $1.00

MYRTLE (Communis) — Of dwarf growth with aro- matic shining green leaves. Bears small white flowers. Very ornamental. Balled $1.00

LAVENDER — For low hedges. Useful for edging walks. Per doz 60c

Climbers

VIRGINIA CREEPER — The hardiest and most rapid growing deciduous climber for our climate 25c

BOSTON IVY — Differs from the Virginia Creeper in its habit of clinging closely to a wall or other flat surface. Does best in partial shade. Deciduous.

35c

TRUMPET VINE! — A strong-growing deciduous vine with scarlet trumpet-shaped flowers 35c

HONEYiSUCKLE (Chinese) — Vigorous evergreen climber. Flowers white, changing to yellow. Very fragrant 25c

ENGLISH IVY — Well-known evergreen climber with dark glossy green leaves. (Will cling to a wall without support. Rather slow-growing to begin with. Must have shade 25c

SILK VINE! — A rapid growing deciduous vine with glossy leaves and purplish-brown flowers. .... .35c

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Monthan Brothers

Fmit Trees

In planting fruit trees in Southern Arizona the choice of varieties is very important. Many of the leading varieties in other parts of the country fail to fruit here, even when the tree itself stands the cli- mate. We grow our own trees from the roots up and bud or graft them from bearing trees.

25c to 60c, according to size. Write for prices on quantities.

PEACH — Sneed, Alexander, Elberta, Muir, Salway, Heath Cling, Mayi^wer, Greensboro, Belle of Ga., etc.

APRICOT — Newcastle, Royal, Blenheim.

PLUM — Burbank, Satsuma, Damson, Wickson, etc. NECTARINE — Advance.

ALMOND— I. X. L.

PEAR — Bartlett, Kieffer, Winter Nelis, Anjou, Lecon- te, Seckel, etc.

APPLE — Bismarck, Gravenstein, White Winter Pear- main, Winesap, etc.

QUINCE — Pineapple, Champion.

FIG — Black IMission, White Adriatic.

OLIVE— Mission.

POMEGRANATE— Wonderful.

GRAPES — Thompson's Seedless, Mission, Muscat, Malaga, Almeria, Tokay, Black Morocco, etc. each, 10c; per doz., $1.00; extra large, each, 25c

BLACKBERRIES per doz. 75c

DEWBERRIES per doz. 50c

STRAWBERRIES per 100,75c

ASPARAGUS PLANTS... per doz. 40c; per 100, $3.00

Miscellaneous Plants

PAMPAS GRASS (Field Clumps) $1.26

YUCCAS (several varieties) $1.00

GIANT REED (Arundo Donax) 50c

CENTURY PLANT (Agave) 50c

BEDDING PLANTS — Cannas, Iris, Dahlias, Carna- tions, Chrysanthemums, Violets; all leading varie- ties. Prices on application.

VEGETABLE PLANTS — (At proper season) — Cab- bage, Onion, Tomato, Pepper, Egg Plant, Sweet Po- tato. Prices on application.

HOUSE PLANTS — We can usually supply a few choice potted plants suitable for house decoration.

LIPPIA REPENS (for Lawns) per square foot of sod 25c

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