Historic, Archive Document Do not assume content reflects current scientific knowledge, policies, or practices. The Kelsey Nurseries (Incorporated) St. Joseph, Missouri ■ : i' Loading Large Ornamental Trees and Balled Evergreens in Car Lots Nursery Stock Wholesale and Retail In presenting our new catalogue we wish to thank our many customers for the liberal trade extended to us in the past and assure you of our appreciation of your continued patronage, which we will make every effort to merit. We urgently request by correspondence and trial orders from new customers, feeling con- fident that you will be pleased with our stock and method of doing business. We grow a complete assortment of hardy Nursery Stock, including Fruit and Orna- mental Trees, Small Fruits, Shrubs, Roses, Vines and Perennials. We are always pleased to quote prices on your wants at any time. The nursery planting under our direct man- agement covers more than 500 acres. We are located at St. Joseph, in northwestern Mis- souri, where we have a strong, rich, loess clay soil. This natural tree soil produces good, healthy Nursery Stock, with an abund- ant supply of fibrous roots that stand trans- planting and handling better than trees grown on land not adapted for growing Nursery Stock. THE KELSEY NURSERIES were establish- ed in 1860 to meet a local demand at that time for fruit trees. The present owners en- joy the distinct advantage among nurserymen of having grown up in nursery work, which has enabled us to acquire valuable practical experience in growing and handling trees. Our one endeavor is to grow the best trees that modern nursery science and modern methods can produce. With our many years of actual experience and training, we feel justified in saying that no better stock can be purchased in the country at any price than we are able to offer you. Our policy is to supply you with the hardiest and most vigorous stock of the best varieties than can be grown. Special at- tention is given to propagation from selected and proven strains of bearing trees in order to insure the best results. ISTxxirvS-oirxj J"1:ock ^ In. G^xx^xvtit^xj — ' — - =*®r = = Facts of Interest to the Trade About Kelsey Nurseries MR. G. L. WELCH General Manager G. L. Welch, general manager of the Kelsey Nurseries at St. Joseph, Mo., comes from a family of nurserymen. He has spent a life time in the business and has been a successful nurseryman all his life. The Kelsey Nurseries, under the management and direction of G. L. Welch, have grown to be one of the leading nurseries in the West, and supply a large trade. The plant operates about five hundred acres of the best growing land in Missouri, with the result that it holds an enviable position be- cause of the fine stock that is delivered. They have growing now a large general assortment of stock, and can supply the most critical trade with most anything in the nursery line. Come and see us; walk through our large, modern storage and shipping plant; drive through our fields; see how we handle and grow this stock; no pains or expense are spared to produce the best that can be grown. Digging, Handling, Packing and Shipping — Careful digging, handling and packing are necessary to secure success even with the best grown stock. Our departments have been carefully systematized, and are under the su- pervision of experienced and practical mana- gers or members of the firm. All stock is packed under cover, and is not exposed to either wind or sun. Our shipping season in the fall begins about the first of October and continues throughout the winter and spring until May 10th. We pack all stock either in paper-lined boxes or bales, using plenty of packing material. If in bales we wrap the tops, and burlap roots securely. This insures their arrival at destination in first class con- dition. SHIPPING FACILITIES— Our shipping facili- ties are excellent. St. Joseph is located on six lines of railroads. We have access to all the trunk systems of the central west, without the congestion of big transfer points. We give you in this Catalog accurate and careful information to aid you in selecting the best trees and plants for your own special re- quirements. Your investment in nursery stock means a very small outlay, and it is poor economy to buy anything but the very best rooted and sturdy specimens. We furnish your special planting directions and are in- terested in keeping in touch with you after you have bought our trees and plants. We help you to obtain the best possible results. We urgently request correspondence and trial orders from new customers feeling con- fident that you will be well pleased with our stock and method of doing business. STORAGE — Our modern storage buildings are especially designed for handling nursery stock in the best possible manner, enabling us to get the trees and plants to our customers in prime condition, you should consider this in buying. Stock handled always under cover; we have the exposure of stock reduced to the minimum after digging; all stock is immediately sent to our large storage houses where it is kept damp while grading and packing for shipment; customers can rely on receiving stock in good condition. 2 Information of Value to Planters All orders entrusted to us will receive prompt attention. It is a great advantage both to the purchaser and to the nurseryman to have or- ders booked as far in advance of the shipping season as possible. Purchasers are requested to give explicit shipping directions, whether by freight or ex- press. When none are given, we forward ac- cording to our best judgment, without assum- ing responsibility, as all goods travel at pur- chaser’s risk. We deliver all goods at railway or express office, taking receipts for all goods as shipped, after which purchaser must look to forwarders for all damage by delay or miscarriage in transit. All orders from unknown correspondents should be accompanied with a cash payment to insure good faith, or satisfactory reference. GRADES. We grade carefully, in some cases by caliper, in others by height. When graded by both caliper and height the caliper must govern. CAUTION. We accept all orders on the con- dition that they shall be void should injury be- fall our stock from frost, hail, fire, or other causes over which we have no control. CLAIMS for errors should be made promptly on receipt of goods, as we cannot rectify them unless promptly made. GUARANTEE OF GENUINENESS. While we exercise the utmost diligence and care to have our varieties true to name, and hold our- selves in readiness on proper proof, to replace all trees, etc., that may prove otherwise, or refund the amount paid, it is mutually under- stood and agreed between the purchaser and ourselves that we shall in no case be liable for any sum greater than the amount origin- ally received for said trees, etc., that prove un- true. We consider varieties marked with a (*) as the most valuable. IN ORDERING, write the name, number and size of each variety plainly so as to avoid er- rors. In filling orders we reserve the right, in case we are out of a variety ordered, to sub- stitute another of equal merit, unless customer writes “no substitution” in order, and recom- mend that purchasers leave the selection of varieties with us as far as possible, as our experience enables us to select such sorts as are best adapted to the locality. We will also fumigate stock when requested to do so, with Hydrocyanic Acid Gas. General Instructions for Transplanting and Managing Fruit Trees 1. PREPARING THE G ROU N D— B e f o r e planting fruit trees the soil (except new ground), should be made mellow by repeated plowing, and where the soil is densely packed, a subsoil plow should be used and the ground stirred up from twelve to fifteen inches deep. If this is neglected the roots are soon surround- ed by an almost impenetrable wall and cannot be expected to live many years. Whenever this system has been practiced, healthy and vigor- ous trees and fine fruit have been the result. 2. RECEIVING AND CARING FOR TREES — Trees are frequently ruined through the lack of care or bad management after they fall into the hands of the purchaser. When trees are received the roots should be covered with a blanket, sack or straw until they reach their destination. The bundle should then be opened and the trees separated from the moss in which they are packed. If the roots have become dry from long exposure, straw should be spread upon the ground, the trees laid upon it, then covered entirely (roots and tops) with straw and the whole well watered. If holes are not yet dug or the ground too wet to plant when the trees are received, dig a trench and lay the trees in a slanting position, so that you can cover up the roots and two-thirds of the body or stalk. In this position let them remain until the holes are dug or the ground is in a suitable condition to receive them. 3. DIGGING THE HOLES— If the soil for an orchard has been properly prepared by sub- soiling and deep plowing, then the opening of the holes becomes a very simple matter, and really this is by far the easiest, cheapest and best plan; for if the soil is thoroughly pulver- ized to a depth of from twelve to fourteen inches, all that is necessary is to measure off the distance at which the trees shall stand from one to another and the order of planting. Where only a few trees are to be planted and the soil has not been subsoiled, or where the trees are to be planted in sod, then the holes ought to be at least four feet wide and eighteen to twenty inches deep, the subsoil thrown back and the hole filled up to the proper depth with fine top soil to receive the trees. 4. PRUNE BEFORE PLANTING— Both root and top should be pruned at time of planting and before the tree is set in the ground. First cut off the ends of the broken and bruised roots with a sharp knife, in a slanting direc- tion on the under side. This will cause the wound to heal over readily, by throwing out plenty of fibrous root at the end. Then cut back each branch or side limb to a bud not more than four to six inches from the body. Then cut back the leader or central limb so as to leave it about four or five inches above the highest side limb. When there are no side limbs the tree should be headed back to a height proper to form a top. None of the lower limbs should be cut off entirely, as it is best to form the heads as low as possible, so that the limbs and leaves will protect the trunk from the direct rays of the sun. 5. DEPTH TO PLANT — Immense numbers of trees are ruined by being planted too deep. Most kinds of fruit trees, except dwarf pears and plums on peach roots, should be planted not over two or three inches deeper than they grew in the nursery row. Dwarf pears and plums on peach roots should be set so that the joint where the body and roots are united will be about four inches below the top of the ground. By this means roots will be thrown out from the body that is covered and larger and longer lived trees secured. 6. PLANTING— When ready to plant, take from the trench a few trees at a time; place the tree in position and arrange it to the proper depth by filling in or raking back the soil to or from where the tree will stand; then fill in the fine mellow soil between and around the roots with the hand, arranging the roots in their natural position and packing the soil carefully around them. When the roots are well cov- ered and hole is about half filled with earth 3 ]NT vx it ^ er vj J" ±ock ^ Tjtl ^ijL^irrtiisTj pour on each tree at least one bucket of water, allowing it to entirely soak away, then finish filling the hole with earth, keeping it pressed firmly, then finish up with a little loose earth on top to keep from baking. 7. MULCHING — Mulching prevents the moisture from escaping and maintains equita- ble temperature about the roots. The material used may be long manure, litter, straw, grass or hay, which should be spread on the surface around the tree for the space of four or five feet and three to six inches deep. Bearing- trees may be benefited by mulching heavily in winter, which will tend to prevent an early development of the fruit buds and assist them to escape the effect of late frosts. 8. AFTER CULTURE— The trees should be kept free from grass and weeds, and no crops should be grown in the orchard while the trees are young, except such as can be cultivated with the plow or hoe. Cultivate well in the spring and summer. 9. AFTER PRUNING— The great majority of people do not take proper care of their trees after planting. This is a great mistake. If a tree or vine does not receive the right kind of care and enough of it when young, it will never attain a healthy old age. Very much has been said about pruning by various authors. Judg- ing these and our own experience and observa- tions, we would say: The best time to prupe fruit trees, and about all kinds of trees and shrubs, is during May and June, May preferred; but be governed by the health and vigor of the tree. We do not advise severe pruning, as too much would injure the tree. Keep all super- fluous forks and limbs cut off and the heads in proper shape to admit air and sunshine as long as the tree lives. Currants and Gooseberries should be trimmed late in the fall or early in the spring, before commencing to grow; Grape vines late in November or any time during the winter up to March 1st; after this trimming, is apt to excite bleeding ov flowing of sap from the wounds. 22. WINTERING TREES WHEN PRO- CURED IN THE FALL— Procuring trees in the autumn for early spring planting is recommend- ed, when the purchaser is not prepared to plant in the fall or prefers spring setting, or where the winters are too severe to set out young trees and plants in the fall. The greatest ad- vantages derived in doing so are that when the roots have been cut or pruned it will be found upon taking them up in the spring, that callous has been formed, ready for the produc- ing of new rootlets, and the trees being planted without much exposure as soon as the frost is out of the ground, will become thoroughly es- tablished the first season, and should make twice the growth of late planted trees, and the labor of planting is done before the rush of spring work sets in. To insure success select a dry spot of ground where water will not stand during winter and no grass or litter that will invite mice. Dig a trench from three to four feet wide, according to the amount of trees to be heeled in, and deep enough to admit one layer of roots and sloping enough to let the trees lie at angle of about 30 degrees, throwing the earth on the back part of the trenches so as to make a more perfect slope on which to lay down the trees. Put in one layer of trees, placing the roots as close together as can con- veniently be done; cover them with well pul- verized, moist soil, well up on the bodies, and see that it is carefully worked in about the roots as if they were being planted; then add another layer of trees, overlapping the first, and continue as at first until all are heeled in, throw in the ground well up around the branch- es with about six inches of dirt on the tops, covering the trees entirely up with the earth. The roots should be pruned before laying them down in the fall. A TABLE SHOWING THE NUMBER OF TREES OR PLANTS TO THE ACRE Distance No. of trees 1 foot apart each way 43,560 2 feet apart each way 10,890 3 feet apart each way 4,840 4 reet apart each way 2,702 5 feet apart each way 1,742 6 feet apart each way 1,210 7 feet apart each way 888 8 feet apart each way 680 9 feet apart each way 537 10 feet apart each way 434 11 feet apart each way 360 12 feet apart each way 302 13 feet apart each way 257 14 feet apart each way 222 15 feet apart each way 193 16 feet apart each way 170 17 feet apart each way 150 18 feet apart each way 134 19 feet apart each way 120 20 feet apart each way 108 25 feet apart each way 69 30 feet apart each way * 48 35 feet apart each way 35 40 feet apart each way 28 RULE — Multiply the distance in feet between the rows by the distance the plants are apart in the rows, and the product will be the number of square feet for each plant or hill, which, di- vided into the number of feet in an acre (43,- 560), will give the number of plants or trees to the acre. SUITABLE DISTANCES FOR PLANTING Apples, Standard 25 to 30 feet Apples, Dwarf 8 to 10 feet Pears, Standard 18 to 20 feet Pears, Dwarf 10 feet Peaches 10 to 18 feet Nectarines and Apricots 16 to 18 feet Cherries, Sweet 18 to 20 feet Cherries, Sour 15 to 18 feet Plums 10 to 20 feet Quinces 10 to 12 feet Grapes 7 t° 8 feet Currants 3 to 4 feet Gooseberries 3 to 4 feet Raspberries, Red 3 to 4 feet Raspberries, Black 4 to 5 feet Blackberries 4 to 6 feet Strawberries, rows 1 by 3V2 feel Strawberries, in beds IV2 by IV2 feet Asparagus, in beds 1 by 1 V2 feet Asparagus, in field 1 by 3 feet 4 FRUIT DEPARTMENT APPLES I/ THE apple is the first in importance of all fruits. It will thrive on nearly any well drained soil. Its period of ripening, unlike other fruits, extends nearly through the whole year. By making careful selection, a constant succession can be obtained. For family use there is no fruit that is more indispensable. No fruit is so healthful and many physicians say that if a person would eat an apple a day they could dispense with doctor bills. Besides this, and just as important, is the fact that the average price on the market is steadly increasing and the im- mense demand for home consumption, foreign shipping, canning and evaporating assures high prices. The apple if given the same care and attention as other farm crops, will yield greater returns per acre. The following list we consider to be the best and the varieties starred we recommend as the best for general planting. Summer Apples Chenango Strawberry — Rather large, oblong conic, angular; striped and splashed with light crimson on whitish-yellow ground; flesh white, very tender, with a pleasant, mild, sub-acid flavor. Best late summer eating apple. August and September. *Duchess (Duchess of Oldenburg) — Origin, Rus- sia; tree upright, vigorous and extremely hardy. An early and annual bearer of uni- formly large crops; fruit large, greenish yel- low with red stripes; flesh light green, medium fine grained, firm; flavor a pleasant Duchess of Oldenburg acid, a great cooking favorite and prime market sort; A good shipper for any early apple and commands good prices; should be planted in every orchard. The most profit- able early apple for commerical purposes. July and August. !:Early Harvest — Size medium, roundish, usual- ly more or less oblate, smooth, bright straw color when ripe; flesh nearly white, flavor rather acid, fine, productive; needs rich cul- tivation to be fine ; good throughout the northern states and southwest. July. Golden Sweet — Medium or rather large, round- ish, slightly flattened, greenish, becoming pale yellow; flesh very sweet, good, of moderate quality; the fruit is always fair, the tree is a free grower and very productive; tender for west; succeeds well southwest. Late summer. *Liveland (Lowland Raspberry) — Color orange yellow, striped, splashed and shaded with red, showing gray dots through the color; flesh light yellow, often stained with red, fine, tender, juicy; core medium open; flavor sub-acid, good; there is no apple east or west of better quality than Liveland; the tree is perfect and a good bearer; the fruit is hand- somely colored. August. *Red Astrachan — Origin, Russia; first imported into England with the White Astrachan from Sweden in 1816; tree upright, spreading, vig- orous growth; an early and abundant bearer; fruit above medium, greenish-yellow, almost covered with mottled and striped crimson; flesh white, crisp, juicy, brisk acid; good. July. 5 lST\air^ er\j O’LX^ircti't^j -=^-= J^-tock SUMMER APPLES— Continued ’"Red June — Size medium, oblong, very red; flesh white, tender, juicy, sub- acid, with a sprightly agreeable flavor; quite early and continues to ripen for four weeks, and will keep long after ripe for a summer apple; profitable for market. The tree is a fine, erect grower, very hardy, bears young and abundantly. A val- uable early apple. First of July. Sops of Wine — Medium size, round- ovate, dark red; flesh white, tender, juicy, sub-acid, often stained red. Valuable for its free growth and fair fruit. Late summer. Sweet June — Rather small, roundish, regular; skin smooth, light yellow; flesh yellowish, very sweet, rich; tree upright, vigorous, productive. A valuable early summer sweet ap- ple. Sweet Bough — Large, roundish, re- motely conical-ovate. Flesh, white, very tender, with an excellent sweet flavor. Ripens from the middle to the end of summer. A moderate and regular bearer. Somewhat irregular, ascending. Tree round-headed. Tetofsky— Origin, Russia. One of the earliest apples to ripen in the northern states, very popular on that account. Flavor sprightly sub-acid, aromatic, extra good quality. Tree stout and upright in growth, but it is apt to blight. July to August. *Yellow Transparent — Origin, Russia. Import- ed from St. Petersburg by United States De- partment of Agriculture. One of the most valuable early apples. Fruit medium, smooth, transparent skin; clear white, becoming pale yellow when fully ripe; flesh white, tender, fine grained, of special quality. Tree is mod- Fameuse Yellow Transparent erately vigorous and a good annual bearer. July. Autumn Apples Anisim — Origin, Russia. Tree spreading and a prodigious bearer; usually free from blight and about equal with Wealthy in hardiness. Fruit medium to small, roundish; color green- ish nearly covered with dark red, over which is a bluish bloom; flesh white, juicy, fine grained, pleasant sub-acid. Beautiful when /Avell ripened. October to December. Autumn Strawberry — Medium size, round, oval; flesh white, striped and splashed with red, tender, juicy, and pleasant; bears young and abundantly. One of the best early au- tumn apples. Bailey Sweet — Origin, New York. Season Oc- tober to November. An old choice variety. Has been fruited successfully as far north as southern Minnesota and South Dakota. Fruit large, conical, irregular; greenish-yel- low, with dull red stripes and russet dots; flesh yellow, moderately juicy, firm, sweet and very good. Fall Pippin — Very large, roundish, oblong, yel- low; flesh tender and delicious. Tree a free grower and a fine bearer; one of the most valuable varieties for table or market. Grown in Western New York as Holland Pippin. October and November. Fameuse7 (Snow Apple) — Origin, Canada. An old and a well known variety. Tree a mod- erate grower, productive. Fruit medium in size; color pale greenish-yellow, mixed with stripes of red. with splashes of same on shady side; flesh white, tender and juicy, slightly perfumed; flavor sub-acid, extra good. Oc- tober and November. 6 C^TJL - ISTvLir^e^ir'Lj vllock 0\x^J jf GRAPES EVERYONE should have a few grape vines in the home garden. They require very little cultivation and the returns are so abund- ant. If proper selection of varieties is made, one may have grapes on the table for several months in the year. They can be trained over fences, trellises, or doorways and thus be or- namental as well as useful. To grow for mar- ket, they can be planted on hillsides that are unsuitable for other crop. They should in all cases have a free exposure to the sun and air. Agawam (Red) — Bunch large, compact, shoul- ered, berry large, dark red or nearly black; flesh tender, juicy, vinous and good quality; later than Concord. Beta — A small, desirable grape that is hardy as far north as North Dakota, often making a growth of 15 to 20 feet in a single season. *Brighton (Red) — Bunch medium to large, quite compact, flesh rich, sweet and best quality, color dark crimson or brownish red; vine vigorous and hardy. Campbell’s Early (Black) — A strong vigorous and hardy sort; ripens early and bears abund- antly; berry large, black with blue bloom; tender, sweet and rich; good market berry; it is a good shipper and long keeper. Catawba (Red) — Bunches medium, shouldered; berries large, deep coppery red, becoming purple when ripe; flesh somewhat pulpy, juicy, sweet, aromatic and rich; one of the latest, does not ripen well in the North. Concord Champion (Black)— Bunches medium, compact;, berries medium, quality fair; on account of the vigor of vine, showy fruit and heavy bearing, it is extensively grown for market. Clinton (Black) — Bunches medium, compact; berries round, small with thin blue bloom, pulpy and juicy; hardy and late; good keeper and valuable as a wine grape. *Concord (Black) — Too well known to need much description; is considered by many to be the best all around grape grown; is ex- tremely hardy, vigorous and productive; bunches large, compact; berries large, juicy, buttery and sweet; wull succeed almost any- where. Delaware (Red) — One of the best red grapes; bunch small and compact; berry small, round, beautiful light red; flesh rich, vinous, sweet, and delicious, best quality; a good market grape. Moore’s Diamond Goethe — Large bunch and berry; yellowish- green, shaded dull red; tender, sweet, qual- ity perfection; vine vigorous and productive. In the North vines should be laid down and covered for protection. 24 G^xx^r S. Bumalda — A handsome variety from Japan; dwarf habit and vigorous growth; foliage nar- row; flowers rose colored and borne in great profusion; blooms a long time. Anthony Waterer — A fine dwarf Spirea with dark crimson flowers. Douglas Spirea (S. Douglasi) — A beautiful variety with spikes of deep rose colored flow- ers in July and August. Fortune’s Dwarf White Spirea (S. Callosa alba) — A white flowering variety of dwarf, sym- metrical form; keeps in flower all summer; a valuable sort. Golden Leaved Nine Bark (S. Opulifolia, var. aurea)— A beautiful variety with golden, yel- low foliage and double white flowers in June. Nine Bark (S. Opulifolia) — One of the most vigorous growers; foliage light green; flow- ers white and produced in great profusion. Japan Snowball (V. Plicatum) — Foliage a hand- some olive-green; flowers are larger and more white than the Common Snowball; borne in dense heads; very ornamental. Lantana (Wayfaring Tree) — The large, white flower clusters open in May and are followed by red fruit; has peculiar soft foliage; makes a good specimen. SNOWBERRY Symphoricarpus Coral Berry (S. Vulgaris) — A slender branched upright shrub, valuable for planting in shady places, as the foliage is very persistent; the fruit is purplish red and hangs on well into winter; flowers small and rose colored. Snowberry-Waxberry (S. Racemosus) — Same as the above except the berries are a pure, snow white; flowers rose colored, but larger. Strawberry Tree (Burning Bush) Europeus — A large shrub or tree bearing rose-colored capsules with red seeds in autumn; striking- ly conspicuous. SUMACH Rhus. Cut Leaved Staghorn Sumach (R. Typhina Laciniata) — A showy broad-headed shrub with large, long, deeply cut foliage, light green in color, changing to shades of red and yellow in the fall; the new growth is clothed with a peculiar down, giving an appearance of the growing horn of a deer; the bark below is a rich orange color. Aromaitca — Sweet-scented, a low spreading shrub, with sweet-scented foliage. Smooth Sumach (R. Glabra) — A shrub 8 feet high with handsome green foliage, changing to beautiful autumn tints; showy spike of crimson fruit. SPIREA Meadow Sweet Arguta — Of a dwarf habit, spreading head; flowers clear white; the best of the very early flowering white varieties; blooms in May. Spirea Thunbergii S. Prunifolia flore pleno — Foliage a dark shin- ing green changing to autumn tints in the fall; flowers double, pure white and are borne the entire length of the twigs; one of the most popular varieties. Snowberry Ash Leaved (S. Sorbifolia) — A vigorous grower with foliage similar to the Mountain Ash and long spikes of beautiful white flowers; blooms in July. Billard’s Spirea (S. Billardi) — Flowers are rose colored; blooms nearly all summer. 48 INtjltt vS* er xj J"i:ock Iitl Oxx^x\“tit:iJr — ^^&F===^ D. Candida — Flowers pure white produced in June and continue to bloom nearly all summer. D. Eva Rathke — Flowers a bril- liant crimson; a beautiful clear, distinct shade. D. Florabunda — A fine variety, flowers a dark red and pro- fuse bloomer. Syringa ful, with silvery foliage; pink flowers borne on short spikes on the young growth. T. Hispida Aestivalis — Shrub with slender, up- right branches, somewhat spreading, leaves bluish green; flowers pink, borne in dense racemes, 2 to 3 inches long; August and Sep- tember. The hardiest and best of all the Tamarix. T. Tetrandra Purpurea — A tall shrub with red- dish-brown bark and slender, spreading branches, purplish pink flowers. WEIGELI A (Diervilla) The Weigelias are shrubs of erect habit while young, but gradually spread and droop as they acquire age; flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, of all shades and colors; very effective for grouping and borders; blossoms are pro- duced in June and July. Spirea Van Houttei D. Rosea — An elegant variety with fine rose colored flowers appearing in June. Reveesiana — Tall and graceful, with dark bluish green lanceolate fpliage and large, pure white double flowers in May and June. Thunberg’s Spirea (S. Tliunbergii)- — Dwarf habit and rounded graceful form; branches slender and drooping; flow- ers pure white and borne the entire length of the twigs; foliage narrow and long, turning to orange scarlet in the fall. Van Houttei Spirea (S. Van Houttei) — This is undoubtedly the most popular of all the varieties; foliage a rich green, changing to beautiful tints in the fall; in blooming season the bush is a perfect mass of pure white flow- ers, the branches bending to the ground; an indispensable ornament for lawns and hedges. SYRINGA OR MOCK ORANGE Philadelphus Garland Syringa (P. Coronarius) — A well- known shrub with pure white, very fragrant flowers; one of the first to bloom. Golden Leaved Syringa (P. Coronarius, var. Aurea) — A handsome variety with golden-yellow foliage; keeps its color the entire season; is splendid for group- ing with other varieties for pleasing effects. Gordon’s Syringa (P. Gordononianus) — A vigorous grower and profuse bloomer; flower white, fragrant, and a late bloomer. Large Flowered Syringa (P. Grandiflorus) — Has very large showy flowers, somewhat fragrant; bark reddish; a rapid grower. Lemoine’s Syringa (P. Lemoinei) — A graceful shrub with very rich foliage and large pure white fragrant flowers in June. TAMARIX T. Africana — A beautiful shrub with small leaves; similar to the Juniper; flowers are pink, small and delicate, borne on long spikes; blooms in May. T. Amurensis — Growth is slender and grace- 49 Engelman’s Ivy HARDY VINES climbing plant with large trumpet-shaped scarlet flowers appearing in August. Large Flowered Trumpet Creeper (B. Radicans* var. Grandiflora) — A beautiful variety with very large flowers, salmon colored, yellow center and striped with red. CELASTRUS Bitter Sweet Climbing Bitter Sweet (C. Scandens) — A native climber with fine large leaves ; yellow flowers and clusters of capsuled orange fruit; a rapid grower. CLEMATIS A beautiful class of hardy climbers, many of the varieties have flowers 5 to 6 inches in diameter. They are very vaulable for training around and over pillars, verandas, fences* rock work, etc. Large Flowering Varieties Jackman ni — Large flowers five to six inches in diameter of a rich violet-purple color. Per- fectly hardy; one of the best in its class. Henryi — Flowers creamy-white and very large; a free bloomer. Madam Edouard Andre — Flowers are a beauti- ful shade of crimson; a free bloomer. Ramona — A vigorous grower and perpetual bloomer; flowers a deep rich lavender. Small Flowering Varieties Coccinea — Flowers thick, bell-shaped, of a bright coral-red color; blooms profusely. Pan icu lata — Probably the most popular of the small flowering sorts; vine is a rapid grower with glossy, green foliage; in September the AKEBIA Akebia Quinata — A Japenese variety of climb- ing shrub with large leaves and white, purple centered flowers. AMPELOPSIS American Ivy or Virginia Creeper (A. quinque- folia) — One of the finest vines for covering walls, verandas or trunks of trees; foliage green, turning to a rich crimson in autumn; a rapid grower and quickly fastens to any- thing it touchs. Boston Ivy (A. Veitchii) — Leaves smaller than the American; forms a dense sheet of green as leaves overlap each other; is a little dif- ficult to start, but when once established re- quires no further care; foliage changes to a crimson scarlet in fall; very valuable for covering brick or stone structures, ro'ck- reies, walls, etc. Engelman’s Ivy (A. quinque folia, var. Engle- manni) — A type of quinquefolia which has long been desired; it has shorter joints and smaller and thicker foliage. It is better equipped with tendrils, by which it will climb walls of stone or brick as closely as the Veitchii (Boston Ivy). It should be plant- ed in the central and northwestern states, in place of the Veitchii, as it is perfectly hardy, withstanding heat and could much better. ARISTOLOCH I A Dutchman’s Pipe — A native species of climbing habit and rapid growth; light green foliage, and pipe-shaped yellowish brown flowers. BIGNONIA T ecoma Trumpet Creeper. (B. Radicans) — A hardy 60 G^tjl Tj RAMBLER ROSES Crimson Rambler — The best known and most popular of the climbing roses, a rapid grower, making sometimes 15 to 20 feet in season; flowers are borne in clusters of 15 to 25 perfectly shaped blossoms of a rich glowing crimson; when in full bloom the vine appears to be a per- fect mat of rich red flowers; perfectly hardy everywhere. Dorothy Perkins — This is one of the new Rambler types; has the same strong habit of growth as the Crimson; flow- ers are borne in large clusters of 25 to 30 and are a beauti- ful shell pink; the individual flower is larger than the Crim- son Rambler; a valuable ac- quisition to the climbing roses. Excelsa (Red Dorothy Perkins) — A radiant, blood-red cluster Rose, as free and double as Flower of Fairfield (The Everblooming Crim- son Rambler) — It carries the crimson splen- dor of the type from spring even into Novem- ber, commencing to bloom on the first young red shoots and adding size and brilliancy with its growth of wood. Lady Gay — Another new type fully equal to the Crimson, bud opens, a deep pink, shad- ing to almost pure white when flowers are matured, borne in large clusters and very double. Philadelphia — A splendid climbing rose with flowers more than two inches in diameter, very double, deep rich crimson, more intense than the bush; the flowers hold their color for a long time; vine is very hardy and a strong grower. Pink Rambler — Flowers are double, of a clear shell pink, borne in large clusters; a valu- able rose for cutting. Tausendschon (Thousand Beauties) — A rapid growing, almost thornless climber showing the blood of the Rambler, Polyantha and Tea parentage. Its innumerable flower clus- ters make a pretty show in June and July; at first, the soft pink of Clotilde soupert, and later deepening to a bright red carmine rose. White Rambler — Flowers are pure white, very double and remain on the vine a long time. Yellow Rambler— Same as the Pink, excepting flowers are a light yellow, changing to straw color; very fragrant. White Dorothy Perkins — A beautiful white flowered counterpart of the pink Dorothy Perkins; vines are a sheet of white during blooming season; are good white roses. BLUE RAMBLER Veilchenblau (Violet Blue) — The new rambler, which is hailed by the rose growers as the forerunner of a genuinely cornflower blue rose, is a seedling of Crimson Rambler. The blossoms, massed in large umbels, are semi- double, of medium size. The color, on first unfolding, is either reddish pink or purplish pink, then turns amethyst, and finally steel blue as the flower fades. The general color impression is that of the March violet. The yellow stamens appear in sharp contrast to the blue petals. The plant is vigorous in growth, with shining green foliage and few but sharp thorns. So far it has not suffered from mildew and is considered one of the most hardy ramblers. Dorothy Perkins, of which it is the red prototype; the clusters are very large. Dorothy Perkins 55 G^tjl <3.1 irt^j n Ixx NJYxi'-s'e'irxj J'tock C^uc«a.x\‘trfc'y CLIMBING TEA AND NOI- SETTE ROSES Climbing Meteor — A rich velvety crimson, strong growing shoots 15 to 21 ft. long in a single season; one of the best ever-blooming climbing roses in culti- vation. Marechal Niel — Beautiful deep yellow, large, full and of a glove shape form, very highly perfumed. HARDY EVERBLOOMING TEA AND HYBRID ROSES Bridesmaid — Clear, bright pink; a constant bloomer, large, full and globular; one of the finest Teas. Very fragrant. British Queen — The finest white rose, it is said, in existence. Gruss an Teplitz— Flower dark, rich crimson, passing to fiery red as they mature; one of the brightest colored roses, large, full and sweet; vigorous grower and very hardy. Duchess of Albany (Red La France) — ” Deep rose, nearly red. K. A. Victoria. Etoile de France — Flowers very large, borne on good long stiff stems; color lovely shade of clear red crimson velvet; a good grower and free bloomer; fine rich color; deliciously fragrant. Helen Gould— One of the most satisfactory roses for general planting. The color is a rosy crimson. Thrifty - young plants. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria — This marvelous rose has had many rivals for the place it still retains as the greatest white rose in existence. Strong, sturdy grower, flowering with utmost freedom. It holds first place as the most popular white rose for general planting. From early spring until late fall its glorious full double flowers, in all their perfection, are produced continuously on long, stiff, erect stems; color, delicate creamy-white, with a delicious magnolia-like fragrance; exquisite buds; absolutely hardy. ♦Lady Hillingdon — A splendid new yellow va- riety, giving quick response to forcing treat- ment and one of the most prolific cut flow- ers. Color deep apricot-yellow, varying to orange. Richmond— Scarlet crimson of most brilliant hue. Buds long and pointed, open flowers beautifully formed. Unusual and typical fragrance; foliage attractive. White Killarney (Waban Rose Co., 1909) — A pure white, sport of the popular Killarney Rose, identical in every way with its parent, excepting in color, which is a pure white. ♦Mrs. Aaron Ward — Buds are deeply cupped, the open flowers delightfully attractive. Color deep golden orange, shading outward to creamy yellow. Etoile de France. 56 G^tjl <3.1 ISTvLir^oirxj I'lock Q^x<3X3“tit:Tj Killarney imperial pink of the inside of the flower as the pet als unfold and curl and the exquisite blooms are produced freely on stiff, erect stems; flowers large, perfectly formed and highly perfumed. Papa Gontier — Very large, rich rosy-red, full and sweet; a strong grower and constant bloomer. Sunburst — Produces buds and flowers on strong, upright stems, suitable for cutting; color, the ex- quisite and popular orange, copper and golden yellow The Bride — One of the very best pure white ever blooming roses extra large, buds and flowers pure cream-white, sometimes tinted with blush. POLYANTHA ROSES Clotilde Soupert — Flowers are borne in large clusters all over the bush; large, full and double; very fragrant; beautiful cream-white, tinted with amber at center and clear bright pink. Crimson Baby Rambler — One of the best hardy bedding roses; vigorous and grow 18 to 24 inches; flowers are borne in clusters of 20 or more to the cluster; perfectly hardy and is good for pot culture for winter blooming; color a bright crim son-pink. Erna Teschendorf — The color of the flowers is the brightest red; the flowers are large and very double and are produced in constant succession throughout the whole season. Killarney — One of the most beautiful roses grown, strong, vigorous, perfectly hardy and in every way a rose that should be more cultivated; flowers are very large, but long and pointed; color a briliant shining pink; one of the best Tea varieties. La France (Pink)— One of the most popular roses in cultivation; buds and flow- ers of lovely form and grand size; color, fine, peach blossom, elegantly clouded with rosy pink. Madam Caroline Testout — Color is brilliant, satiny rose, deepening in center to clear red; it is of ex- cellent substance and keeps its color well. Madam Cochet — This is one of four of the most beauti- ful roses in cultivation; we have them in all colors, pink, red, white and yellow. Jonkheer J. L. Mock — The whole rose-growing public praises this famous rose, which gained the distinc- tion of being a winner of the Grand Prize, Highest Award, at the International Rose Show held at Paris. The color is carmine on the outside which contrasts beautifully with the lovely Baby Rambler 57 G^'LX<3Lli"tTJ ^irock Qxx