Historic, Archive Document

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Planters

TTlanual

HA'RDT] TIURSER1J STOCK
FOR <THE RORTH1PEST

north Star nursery Compan

Pardeeuille, IPisconsin

]

Table of Contents

i #

Page

Apples 3

Asparagus 15

Blackberries 17

Bulbs and Tubers 36

Cherries - 11

Climbing Vines 35

Currants 14

Evergreens 26

Grapes 12

Gooseberries 13

Hedges, Screens, Windbreaks 27

Mulberries 10

Ornamental Shrubs 19

Peaches 10

Pears 7

Perennial Plants. 32

Planters Manual 37

Plums 8

Raspberries 16

Rhubarb 15

Roses 30

Shade and Ornamental Trees 29

Strawberries 18

Terms and Conditions of Sale 2

PLATTERS mATlllAL

A MESSAGE TO OUR FRIENDS

WE present our Planters Manual
for your consideration and benefit
as we have always considered our patron’s
success ours. It is our purpose to give
you, in a condensed form, the necessary
information pertaining to the proper
planting, care and successful growing of
nursery stock. You will find the informa-
tion contained in this Manual well worth
your consideration and preservation.

Our Nursery is located at Pardeeville,
Wisconsin, “The City of Lakes”, on State
Trunk Highway 44 and about 35 miles
north of Madison, “The Capital City” of
our state. We are fortunate in having our
nursery located upon a very fertile tract
of land; the soil and climatic condi-
tions are ideal for the proper growing of
high grade nursery stock with extensive
root systems, a characteristic that is

absolutely necessary to the successful
future growth of any tree, shrub or
plant.

Our Frost-Proof Storage of modern
construction is conceded by authorities to
be one of the largest and best equipped
buildings of its kind in the northwest, a
feature which together with our private
rail road track leading up to our loading
doors, enables us to give our customers
the best possible service in the shipment
of their orders.

Pa}7 Us A Visit — We extend a hearty
invitation to all of our freinds and patrons
to visit our nursery. Our grounds and
buildings are open every day in the week
for personal inspection from 7:00 A. M.
until 6:00 P. M., except Sundays. A trip
through our nursery will be very interest-
ing, instructive and well worth the time
and effort spent.

Tlorth Star Pursery Company

PARDEEUILLE . . 1DISCONSITI

TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE

I i

Frices — We do not print prices in our catalogue but supply a price list
separately. In case you do not have a copy of our latest price list at. the time your
selection of plants is made, copy will be forwarded to you immediately upon re-
quest. We will gladly make special quotations on any list of items in large lots.

Grade or Quality — In view of our policy, “North Star Quality First”, we
are particularly careful about grading our stock to see that our patrons get the
highest quality. Do not confuse the SPECIAL SELECT GRADES OF STOCK we
furnish with those of an inferior grade offered by many nurseries at a lower price.
Our prices are based on what it costs us to deliver a first class tree and back it up
with a guarantee that means something. Land at this time is too valuable to be
wasted with trees of doubtful or .inferior quality.

Claims — If any, must be made within five days from receipt of stock. We
cannot become responsible for misfortune of stock caused by droughts, flood,
frosts, insects, fire, etc., and by stock not being taken from the express office for
several days after its arrival.

Guarantee of Genuineness— While we exercise the utmost diligence to
have all of our varieties true to name, and hold ourselves in readiness on proper
proof to replace all trees, etc., that prove untrue to name, we do not give any
warranty, expressed or implied, and in case of any error on our part it is mutually
agreed between the purchaser and ourselves that we shall not at any time be held
responsible for any sum greater than the amount originally paid for the said trees.

Losses and Replacements — All of our stock is in prime condition when it
is packed for shipment, and every precaution is taken to have it go forward
promptly and reach its destination in the same good condition as it left us. When
stock has been received in bad order, claim should be made immediately, either to
us or to the transportation company, according to whether the fault is ours or
theirs. Our rule governing replacement is at one-half the current retail price.

Packing — Every care is exercised in the packing of our stock for shipment.
“Quality First” is our policy, and as we ship no poor stock, we take every pre-
caution to pack each shipment so that under the usual mail, express and freight
conditions the stock will reach its destination in the same excellent condition it
was in when packed.

Delicious Apple, the king of all red apples

APPLES

dE apple is first in importance of all fruits grown for the reason that it
will thrive and produce well in most any climate in the United States.
Its period of ripening, unlike other fruits, extends nearly through the
whole year. Xo fruit is so healthful and wholesome and it should be
made a part of our daily diet.

The varieties we are listing are the most desirable and have been
carefully selected by us for their qualities of hardiness, productiveness
and high quality of fruit. The varieties marked with an (*) are not
quite as hardy and should not be planted in localities where severe,
cold winters are experienced.

SUMMER VARIETIES

DUCHESS — Duchess of Oldenb urg — A Rus-
sian variety ripening during the months of
July and August. Tree is upright and hardy,
vigorous grower. An early annual bearer,
fruit large, greenish-yellow with red stripes.
Flesh light yellow, medium fine grained,
firm, flavor a pleasant acid; one of the best
varieties for cooking and commercial market
and always commands a good price. Should
be planted in every orchard and is conceded
to be one of the most profitable early apples
for the commercial market.

EARLY HARVEST— A pale yellow apple,
of medium size with a mild fine flavor. The
tree is an upright grower, a good bearer and
excellent for the orchard or garden as it is
one of the first to ripen. Season, middle to
last of August.

GOLDEN SWEET — Another medium size,
rich and sweet yellow apple. Good for home
or local market. Season August to September.

LIYELAND — Lh eland Raspberry — A beau-
tiful apple, color orange-yellow, striped,

mm

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

\mm

APPLES — Continued

splashed and shaded with red, and gray dots
showing through the color, flesh light yellow
and sometimes stained with red; fine, tender,
juicy with flavor sub-acid. Season August
to September.

LONGFIELD — A Russian variety, free,
upright grower, early and prolific bearer,
fruit medium to large, yellowish, blushed with
red stripes. Sub-acid in flavor and fine
quality. Bears very early. Season August.

OKABENA — One of our very" hardy Min-
nesota varieties. The fruit is medium size,
striped with red similar to the Duchess. The
flavor is a mild sub-acid and it is a very
valuable fruit on account of its very hardy
and vigorous ;habits of growth. Season me-
dium late, September,

RED ASTRACHAN — Originated in Rus-
sia and was first imported into England with

the White Astrachan from Sweden in 1816.
The tree is a very vigorous upright grower
and prolifi'c bearer. The fruit, medium in
size, greenish-yellow, almost covered with
mottled and striped crimson; flesh white,
crisp, and strong sub-acid. A variety that
we can heartily recommend to our customers.

TETOFSKY — A Russian variety that is
especially noted for its hardiness. The fruit,
small to medium, light yellow, striped and
splashed with red; flesh white, tender and
juicy with sub-acid flavor. Season, July and
August, very early.

YELLOW TRANSPARENT— A favorite
home and commercial variety, especially for
the North. The fruit is large, waxen yellow
with fine grained white flesh. The tree is
very hardy and an annual bearer. The sea-
son is very early, July 15th to 20th.

LATE FALL AND EARLY WINTER VARIETIES

- ANISIM — A very hardy, thrifty, upright
growing tree and a prolific bearer. Fruit
small to medium with a skin slightly rough
but of the richest red color, and excellent
quality. It is one of the Russian’ varieties
that is especially noted for its hardiness. It
ripens in September and the fruit can be
kept until January.

DUDLEY — North Star — A seedling of
the Duchess and is as hardy and productive
as that variety. Season, October. A very
desirable variety to plant in the Northwest.

*FALL PIPPIN — A large green.ish-yellow
apple and gradually turns into a rich yellow
when ripe. The flesh is firm and tender with
a rich aromatic flavor. A thrifty grower and
moderate bearer.

SNOW — Fameuse — This variety originated
in Canada. An old and well known variety, -
tree moderate grower and usually ismall for
its age; but a very h.eavy producer of a me-
dium sized fruit of a <•. palei agrieenish-yellow
color, mixed with' red stripes, i Flesh snow
white, juicy, tender and slightly perfumed,
flavor sub-acid. Very hardy and a valuable
variety for the Northern sections. Season,
October and November.

*GANO — The improved Ben Davis, color
rich red fruit of a medium size and excellent
quality, tree good producer and moderately
hardy.

HIBERNAL — Of Russian origin and one
of the hardiest varieties known to fruit
growers. Tree vigorous, sturdy and an early
bearer. ! Fruit large, greenish-yellow with dull
bronze red on sunny side; flesh jui£y, sub-
acid and Very good for cooking and jelly.
This is one of the best for sections of extreme
cold and dry climates. . Season, October to
December.

MAIDEN BLUSH— The name ;is very de-
scriptive of this variety. Fruit medium to
large; pale1, waxen ’yellow with crimson blusF
Flesh tender, juicy and sub-acid.. .Tree very-
hardy and upright 'grower; a beautiful apple.
Season, latter part of August and continues,
until late in October.

PATTON’S GREENING— A seedling of-
the Duchessp very large; flavor good, lightly
sub-acid. A very good cooking apple. Sea-
son December to February.

PEERLESS — Tree originated in Minne-
sota in 1864; a strong and vigorous grower
with a very dark bark. The fruit is large,
striped with dull red; of an agreeable sub-
acid flavor. Season November to February.

UNIVERSITY— A very desirable seedling
of the Duchess; tree vigorous and spreading
grower; fruit large and regular in shape;
surface a clear yellow on the sunny side.
Flesh sub-acid, good quality. Tree very
hardy and especially adapted to northern
climates.

I 4 I

Hardy N orthern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

APPLES — Continued

Wealthy

WEALTHY — A Minnesota variety, tree
extra hardy, fruit medium size, round and
smooth. Color whitish-yellow shaded with
rich dark red. Flesh white, tender and some-
times stained with red, sub-acid. Tree is
very hardy, strong grower, and an abundant
producer. Everybody knows the value of
this variety and it is a favorite among
planters.

WOLF RIVER — Fruit very large, one
apple has been known to weigh 27 ounces.
Fruit highly colored with streaks of red.
A valuable apple for cooking and apple but-
ter. Season, September to December.

McMAHON’S WHITE— A very large,
white winter apple of Wisconsin origin. Tree
very hardy and vigorous grower. Good pro-
ducer. Season, October to February.

WINTER VARIETIES

* ARKANSAS BLACK— A beautiful crim-
son-black apple, large, perfectly smooth,
lightly dotted with white, flesh yellow and
firm as well as juicy and delicious; it is a
very late keeper with a season from Decem-
ber to April.

*BALDWIN — A leading commercial varie-
ty, fruit large, bright red, juicy and rich. A
very good eating as well as cooking apple.
Trees moderately hardy, upright in growth
and very productive. One of the best com-
mercial varieties known to the trade and is
very desirable for the large orchard as the
supply of these apples will never exceed the
demand. This variety is not adapted to
climates that are too severe.

"'BEN DAVIS — An American variety, fruit
medium in size, skin yellow with red stripes;
flesh white, tender and juicy, sub-acid in
flavor. A good apple for the market.

DELICIOUS — The king of all apples; it is
the result of careful plant breeding to pro-
duce an apple that contains the best qualities
of all varieties. It originated in the State of
Iowa and is well known throughout the
whole United States. Tree is very hardy,
upright grower and prolific bearer. Fruit
large and oblong and of the sheep nose type;
color light green, shaded, splashed and mot-
tled with light and dark crimson; flavor
sweet, slightly acid which makes it all the
more pleasing. It is the apple that you will
find at the grocery stores, boxed and wrapped
and selling as high as ten and fifteen cents
each. It is a good keeper and can be held in
storage from November to April. No orchard
is complete without a generous supply of

these trees. This variety has taken first
place for commercial and home use.

MALINDA— A fine Minnesota variety
known for its hardiness. Fruit medium,
conical, fine grained and nearly sweet. A
splendid variety for the Northwest. Season,
January to April.

McIntosh

McINTOSH RED— A seedling of the
Snow and much improved in many ways.
Fruit medium size, nearly a deep red; flesh
snow white, very tender and juicy, sub-acid
arid superior to the famous old Snow apple.
It is a very valuable apple for home and com-
mercial use. No orchard is complete without
an ample supply of these trees. Season,
October to January.

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

APPLES — Continued

*GRIMES GOLDEN— A medium hardy,
sour, yellow apple, round and medium size.
The skin is a clear deep yellow with rusty
dots. Tree vigorous and uniform bearer.
Season, November to February.

^JONATHAN— A very desirable variety of
medium hardiness. Fruit, solid red with a
darker shade on the sunny side, firm, with an
aromatic flavor; medium size and of the best
quality. Tree is long lived and upright
grower. Comes into bearing about the fourth
year and regular crops each year can be de-
pended upon. A fine apple for the home and
market use. Season, November to February.

Northwestern Greening

NORTHWESTERN GREENING— A va-
riety that is known by all for its exceptional
hardiness and long keeping qualities. We
have seen two crops of Greenings with no
cold storage facilities other than a common
root cellar. The year old apple was in a fine
state of preservation. We know of no other
variety that will keep as long as this. Tree
vigorous, hardy and upright grower; bears
annually and a variety that can be depended
upon. It is one of the finest cooking apples
grown. Fruit large, greenish-yellow with a
waxy appearance, sub-acid in flavor and is
slightly aromatic. This variety originated in
Wisconsin and will do well anywhere in the
northwest. Season January to May.

PRICES SWEET— A very valuable sweet
apple. Tree vigorous, upright in growth.
Fruit medium size, oblong and conical. Color
yellowish-green, marbled dull red.

*ROME BEAUTY — The name expresses
the description of this variety. Fruit large,

uniform and round; skin bright red on yellow
ground, very beautifully colored. Flesh
nearly wjiite and lightly tinged with yellow
or green. A very desirable variety but not
too hardy in northern latitudes. Season,
November to April.

SALOME — A hardy variety and very valu-
able for the Northwest. Fruit medium size,
greenish-yellow, overlaid with pink and red.
A young bearer. Season, November to Jan-
uary.

SCOTT’S WINTER— A valuable variety,
hardy, thrifty grower and young bearer.
Fruit medium size, roundish; surface deep
red with light red in blotches and streaks.
Flesh yellowish-white and slightly colored
with red near the skin; lightly acid but good
in quality. Season November to February.

MAY SEEK — Medium to large, round
striped with dull red and covered with russet
dots; flesh crisp and juiciy and excellent in
quality. Tree strong grower and hardy.
Season, November to February.

*STAYMAN’S WINESAP— Truly a great
apple. Dark rich red, striped with yellowish-
green; very juicy and excellent quality. Tree
strong grower, medium hardy and a yearly
bearer. It has been known to produce a
barrel to the tree at the age of five years. A
very valuable commercial apple due to its
fine qualities. Season, December to April.

TOLMAN SWEET — An old variety that
is known to most everybody. Fruit medium
size, skin whitish-yellow, flesh firm and very
sweet. A long keeper and very valuable for
cooking. Season, November to February.

WINTER BANANA— The apple with the
banana flavor. Tree very hardy and pro-
ductive. The fruit has a very rich flavor
which cannot be described. Color golden-
yellow with pink blush. It makes a very
desirable lawn tree as. the leaves are nearly
double the size of ordinary varieties. Season,
November to February.

*WILLOW TWIG — Tree strong, spread-
ing grower with drooping branches. Fruit
medium in size, yellowish-green and striped
with dull red, mild sub-acid and well known
for its long keeping qualities. Not too hardy,
but a real success in localities that have a
mild winter climate. A very desirable apple
and well worth consideration for the com-
mercial orchard. Season, November to
March.

WISCONSIN RUSSET— A well known
long-keeping variety. Fruit not large, but
uniform; skin bronze colored, dotted with
rusty spots. A moderate bearer and the
tree is very hardy. Originated in Wisconsin.
Season, December to April.

I 6 1

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

CRAB APPLES

The crab apple is very desirable for an
ornamental tree and is very valuable for
making cider, jelly, pickles, etc. Good
crab apples are always in demand and sell for
good prices. They are very hardy and do well
in practically every locality. No orchard is
complete without its quota of crab apples.
The varieties that we sell are the best.

We do not sell the Transcendant as it is sub-
ject to fire blight and should never be planted
in the orchard. The State Department does
not recommend its sale.

EXCELSIOR — A very large crab, nearly
as large as a small apple. Fruit very attrac-
tive yellow and almost covered with bright
red. Flesh white and juicy, sub-acid in fla-
vor and very desirable for dessert and cooking
purposes. Tree strong grower and bears
young. Season late fall.

FLORENCE — Fruit medium size, yellow-
ish-white and nearly overspread with bright
red. Flesh white, juicy, sub-acid and excel-
lent quality. The tree is moderately hardy,
upright in growth with a spreading top.
Season late summer.

HYSLOP — A crab that is well known;
fruit large, round and uniform. Skin pale
yellow and almost completely covered with
a bright red, overspread with a thick blue
bloom. The flesh is yellowish and tinged
with red. Tree hardy, good grower and regu-
lar bearer. Season late fall.

EARLY STRAWBERRY— Fruit medium
size; highly colored, sub-acid, good for eating
as well as cooking. It ripens two weeks earlier
than the Whitney. Season early summer. A
desirable variety to plant.

SWEET RUSSET— A large hybrid, ex-
tremely hardy and desirable. Fruit oblong,
conical, light russet in color and very rich.
An excellent eating crab and one of the best
for pickling. Season late summer.

WHITNEY — Everybody knows this va-
riety. Fruit large, uniform, color yellow
striped with red, mostly red on the sunny
side. Flesh yellow, firm, very juicy and rich,
nearly sweet. One of the best cooking crabs
known. Tree hardy, upright in growth and
a great producer. Season early summer.

PEARS

[VERYBODY knows the melting juicy texture of this fruit. It is one of the best
to eat out of the hand and very desirable for preserving. The summer varieties
should be picked at least ten days before they are ripe, the autumn varieties at
= least two weeks but the winter varieties may hang until the leaves begin to
fall; then store in a cool, dry cellar. Pears grow well in most any climate where
apples thrive; but are not recommended for the northwest.

BARTLETT — Fruit large, distinctly “pear
shaped,” sweet, very juicy, tender and of
excellent flavor. The skin is clear golden-
yellow, with red cheek. Tree strong grower,
hardy and very productive. Season last of
August to first of September.

DUCHESS D’ANGOULEME— A large
greenish-yellow pear with patches of russet.
Flesh yellowish-white and very juicy. This
variety is very popular on account of its very
large size. Season October and November.

FLEMISH BEAUTY— Large juicy pear,
surface slightly rough with russet spots.
Flesh juicy with a rich sweet and excellent
flavor. One of the old and highly esteemed
varieties. Tree hardy and very productive.
Bears well in climates where winters are
severe. Season September to October.

KIEFFER — Originated from a seed of the
Chinese Sand Pear and crossed with the Bart-
lett. Fruit large, skin rich, golden-yellow.
It is seldom blushed with color, but frequently
with tinges of russet. Tree very vigorous and
good bearer. Season Nov. and Dec.

SECKEL — Fruit small but of the highest
flavor. Slow grower but bears early and
abundantly. An excellent pickling pear and
Bartlett Pear one of the most hardy. Season Sept, to Oct.

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

Waneta Plum, a Favorite

PLUMS

HE value of plums for canning, preserving, plum butter, marmalades
and jellies can hardly be estimated. It rivals the grape as a source of
fruit juice and the peculiar texture of the fruit makes it one of the best
for home and commercial purposes.

Plum trees are very hardy and will grow and produce well on most
any well drained soil; in fact, they will succeed where other fruits fail.
Fertile soil is no requirement for this kind of fruit as we have seen the
plum grow in very poor soil and produce good crops where even the grass
cannot survive. If a person has waste land with good drainage that will
not produce other crops, plant it to plums and reap a good profit. Plums will not bear alone,,
it is always necessary to plant two or three different varieties together in order to get fruit.

FAMOUS HANSON HYBRIDS

No varieties of plum have become so popu-
lar and well known as the productions of
Professor N. E. Hanson of the South Dakota
Experimental Station at Brookings, South
Dakota. The United States Government
sent Professor Hanson to Siberia to find and
bring back some varieties of plum that
could be hybridized with some of less hardy
varieties and thereby produce a fruit that
would thrive and produce in the Northwest
where severe, cold winters are experienced.
The answer to his work is listed in the follow-
ing varieties which we are pleased to recom-
mend to our patrons knowing from experience
that they will more than meet their expecta-
tions.

HANSKA — The Sioux Indian name for
“tall” alluding to its extremely rapid and

tall growth. We have known three year old
trees to attain the height of ten feet if not
cut back.

The parents of this variety are the native
northwestern plum (Prunus americana) and
the firm fleshed fragrant Chinese Apricot
Plum (Prunus Simoni), a variety popular in
the orchards of California.

The fruit is about 1^ inch in diameter, a
bright red color when ripe and covered with
a heavy blue bloom; flesh firm, yellow, good
quality and very fragrant. It begins to bear
the second year after planting, about the
first week in September.

KAHINTA — A close relative of the Wa-
neta, although somewhat different in habits
of tree growth. The fruit is a free-stone,
dark red in skin color, slightly oval in shape

I 8 1

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

and very large, some specimens measuring
2 1/16 inches in diameter and weighing a
trifle over two ounces. Bears the second
year after planting.

OPATA — (Sioux Indian name for “bou-
quet”) An Opata tree in full blossom can
well be compared with a large bouquet of
pure white flowers of the most exquisite
fragrance. It blossoms just a little later
than the ordinary plum and thereby escapes
the late frosts. This variety is a cross be-
tween the Dakota Sand Cherry and the Gold
Plum which was originated by Luther Bur-
bank. Tree is vigorous and hardy, branching
very low and of quite spreading habits. The
fruit is one inch or more in diameter; has a
small pit, and of a dark purplish-red color,
with blue bloom; flesh is green and firm,
flavor pleasant and much like the rich sweet-
ness of the Gold Plum. Bears the second
year after planting. Ripens between the
season of cherries and common plums.

SAP A — (Souix Indian name for “black”.)
The female parent of this variety was a
selected seedling of the Western Sand Cherry,
a favorite of the Sioux Indians; the male
parent a very large, purple fleshed Japanese
Plum originated by Luther Burbank. Fruit
has a glossy dark purple, thin skin, dark
purple flesh about the color of a beet. The

Sapa has lead the list of Hanson Hybrids on
account of its very fine color, rich sweet flavor.
Excellent for eating out of the hand and
makes most delicious, rich, sweet, wine-
colored sauce. This variety bears in our
nursery row and we have known three year
old trees to produce as much as a bushel and
a half of fruit. Be sure to select this variety
for your orchard. Season, about a week
later than the Opata.

TOKATA — Another Hanson Hybrid of
the highest quality. A cross between the
rich flavored apricot plum of China (Prunus
Simoni) and one of our very best flavored
native plums, the De Soto. It combines
the best qualities of both varieties. The
fruit is large, with rich, orange-red skin and
flesh. A perfect free-stone. Bears young
and sure to satisfy.

WANETA — Another wonderful plum
which gives the northern fruit growers a
chance to compete with California in the
production of large, finely flavored plums for
the market. Fruit as much as two inches in
diameter, bright red in color, delicious qual-
ity, long keeper and a splendid shipper. It
is a cross of the America, a large Japanese
plum, with the pollen of the Terry. Abso-
lutely hardy and a plum that we like to
recommend to our customers.

NEW MINNESOTA PLUMS

LORING PRIZE — To encourage and stim-
ulate the creation of a finer quality of plums
than existed some years ago, Honorable
Charles M. Loring, of Minneapolis, Minne-
sota, offered a prize of One Thousand Dollars,
for a plum and tree that would meet certain
qualities of excellence and hardiness that
would include size, shape, color, flavor,
smallness of pit, firmness of flesh, together
with general good characteristics of the tree.

Many attempts to originate a fruit tree
that would meet the requirements were
made, but none were successful until Mr. J. P.
Vikla produced the plum, now known as the
Loring Prize Plum, which, in spite of all
competition, received the unanimous award
of the committee. Several of the varities
submitted were excellent, but failed in some
important part, especially where hardiness
was required. This was the only plum where
all conditions were met, establishing a won-
derful record. The fruit is very large, 1% to
l}/2 inches in diameter. Slightly oblong, of
bright red color, delicious to eat out of the
hand, being superior to the California plums

found on the market. The tree begins to
bear at three or four years and has proven
its hardiness all through the Northwest.

RED WING— Fruit large, firm, yellow,
overlaid with red. Flesh moderately juicy,
sweet. Very attractive in appearance and
while this is a new variety it promises to
make a name for itself.

UNDERWOOD (No. 91)— A very attrac-
tive large red plum with fairly juicy flesh,
small pit. A continuous bearer and a variety
that has proven very satisfactory wherever
it has been planted. Originated at Minn.
State Experimental Station.

WINONA (No. 30) — Tree very hardy and
attractive and requires very little pruning.
Fruit large with yellow background, turning
red when ripe, sweet, juicy and of high qual-
ity. Originated at Minnesota State Experi-
mental Station and promises to be a leader.

f '9

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville , Wis.

PLUMS — Continued

NATIVE AND EUROPEAN VARIETIES

y

Varieties marked (*) are not hardy in
cold climates.

FOREST GARDEN — Tree hardy; bears
profusely; one of the earliest plums; large,
being inches in diameter, color mottled
red and yellow; skin thin, juicy, sweet and
rich. Ripens in August.

*GERMAN PRUNE — This variety is not
hardy in cold climates. A large purple plum
with a very rich flavor and very valuable for
drying. Tree very productive. Season, Sept.

*GREEN GAUGE — A green plum espe-
cially valuable for canning. Very sweet in
flavor. Slow grower. Ripens about the
middle of August.

SURPRISE — A Minnesota variety. Fruit
large red, with many light dots on the skin.
Good bearer and keeper.

WYANT — A Wisconsin production. Fruit
medium to large, slightly oblong, purplish-
red in color; skin thick; flesh rich yellow.
Good producer.

APRICOTS

A fruit that can be grown successfully where peaches are grown. The season of ripen-
ing is between the cherries and peaches. This class of fruit is always in demand and com-

mands good prices. We do not recommend
perience cold, severe winters.

EARLY GOLDEN— Fruit, small, about
one and one-half inches in diameter. Flesh
orange-yellow, moderately juicy, rich and
sweet. A free stone. Tree hardy and pro-
ductive. Season, middle of July.

ROYAL — Large, roundish - oval; pale
orange with faintly tinged cheeks. Flesh

apricots for Wisconsin or other states that ex-
yellow and of good quality. Sub-acid. Sea-
son, first of August.

SUPERB — A Russian variety, medium
size fruit, light salmon with numerous red or
russet dots, flesh yellow, firm and sub-acid.
Tree productive and hardy. Season middle
of July.

PEACHES

A very desirable and useful fruit and one that most everybody is acquainted with.
Peach trees are easily cultivated, moderately free from disease and bear abundant crops
very soon after planting. They are not hardy in localities having severe cold climates;
unless it is tempered by some large body of water. We do not recommend them for
Wisconsin, Minnesota or any of the western states.

ELBERTA — The most widely known and
extensively cultivated peach. Fruit very
large, golden - yellow, nearly covered with
crimson on the sunny side; flesh firm, rich
yellow. Free stone. Season middle of Sep-
tember.

CHAMPION — Fruit, exceptionally high
quality, hardy white peach. Free stone. A

good variety for the home use. Noted for its
regularity of bearing heavy crops. Season,
August.

CRAWFORD’S LATE — Ripens a few
days after the Elberta. Fruit yellow, free-
stone, very large and attractive. A real
peach for the fancy trade. Season first of
September.

MULBERRIES

The Mulberry is highly valued as a shade and ornamental tree and at the same time
the planter derives large quantities of fruit that is very valuable for cooking purposes. The
mulberry is very valuable to plant in the cherry orchard as both fruits ripen about the same
time and the birds prefer the mulberries to cherries. The trees will grow and thrive in
most any kind of soil. Some people prefer mulberries to blackberries.

DOWNING — One of the best varieties for
fruit. Tree vigorous grower, hardy and
heavy producer of large, black, sweet berries.
RUSSIAN — A very hardy variety used

extensively for hedges and windbreaks. A
very compact grower and will stand close
pruning. Fruit of different colors ranging
from black to white.

I 10 1

Compass Cherry Plum

CHERRIES

FRUIT that is highly prized by everybody. It is much like the grape
and produces well whenever it is planted. The fruit is prized highly for can-
ning and preserving purposes which makes it a favorite for the market.
Cherries are always in strong demand and command very high prices.
Cherries thrive well on any well drained soil. The varieties we list are the
most desirable.

NEW HARDY HYBRID CHERRIES

COMPASS CHERRY PLUM— A cross
between the native Sand Cherry and the
Minor Plum. It originated in Minnesota
and is particularly noted for its remarkable
hardiness combined with productiveness. It
will grow and thrive anywhere. This variety
is called the “Cherry Plum” by many. The
fruit resembles the plum more than the cherry
being of a dark red color when ripe. Some
people make the mistake in picking this
cherry when the fruit is a bright red. It is
not thoroughly ripened until it takes on a
dark red color. Season, last days of July.
This cherry usually bears the next year
after planting and we can recommend it to
our customers knowing that it us sure to
satisfy. . _j

ZUMBRA — This new cherry was produced
by the Minnesota State Fruit Breeding Farm
at St. Paul and promises to be one of the
finest cherries of the Hybrid type known to
the Horticultural World. The following de-
scription was taken from the State Bulletin
of new fruits:

“A low growing tree, vigorous and ex-
tremely productive, showing the character-
istic profuse bearing habits of most sand
cherry crosses. The fruit reaches one inch
in diameter and is borne in thick rope-like
clusters along the slender branches of last
years wood; color, very dark, nearly black
when ripe; flesh firm, greenish, sometimes
tinged with red when fully mature; stone
small, free; quality good, with a flavor and

11 I

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville , Wis.

CHERRIES — Continued

crispness somewhat resembling its sweet cherry flavor is especially noticeable. Season
cherry parent. Especially recommended for extends from last week in August to middle
sauce and preserves. When cooked the sweet of September or later.

SOUR CHERRIES

EARLY RICHMOND— A favorite early
sour cherry. Fruit, medium size, roundish
shape, dark red, juicy and sub-acid. A good
canner. Tree, medium size, upright, spread-
ing, productive and long-lived. It is one of
the most hardy varieties of the Sour cherry
group. Season, June.

LARGE MONTMORENCY-The leading
sour cherry and is prized highly by canning
companies. Fruit, large red, good flavor and
hangs well to the tree. Tree, very hardy and
bears young, sometimes the second year after
planting, very productive and a variety that
every orchard should contain. Last of June.

SWEET CHERRIES

BLACK TARTARIAN — Fruit, very large,
purplish black; half tender, juicy, very rich
and flavor excellent. Tree vigorous grower
and producer, but semi-hardy and not recom-
mended for cold climates. Season, middle
of June.

WINDSOR — A late variety and very de-
sirable. Fruit very dark; flesh hard and
meaty. Excellent for canning and market
purposes. The heavy foliage of this variety
protects the fruit from the birds. Tree semi-
hardy. Season, late July.

GRAPES

Although the oldest of cultivated fruits,
grapes are only just now coming into popular
favor which their many fine qualities really
deserve. They are adapted to planting in
the large vineyard, on the porch for shade
and in the garden. The grape is the fruit
for all, the poor and the rich. It yields an
abundant supply of juice from which many
palatable beverages can be made.

AGAWAM (ROGERS No. 15) (RED)—

A large, round, dull purple-red grape with a
lilac bloom, rich, sweet, aromatic flavor. The
vine is vigorous and hardy. Ripens after the
Concord and will keep, until January. It is
self fertile and is the best and most profitable
red grape.

ALPHA (BLACK) — For years, Horticul-
turists have endeavored to produce a grape
that was hardy, eatable, prolific and good for
wines or preserves. It remained for Rev.
John B. Katzner of Minnesota to find, im-
prove and cultivate such a grape.

The Alpha is a very hardy vine; in fact,
the hardiest vine that we know of. This
grape has survived the winter three hundred
fifty miles northwest of St. Paul, Minnesota,
without any covering. On account of its
vigor and hardiness, the Alpha is just the
right kind of a vine for an arbor or porch.
Fruit, black skin, very delicious and juicy,
but small in size.

BETA— (BLACK)— Another variety par-
ticularly adapted to cold and severe climates.
It requires no winter covering like most
grapes. The Beta is a black, good sized
grape, about the size of the Concord. This

Concord Grape

I 12 1

w

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

mm

GRAPES — Continued

variety will please the most exacting customer
and will grow and produce good crops where
other varieties fail. Season, early, ripens
before the September frosts.

CAMPBELL’S EARLY— (BLACK)— A

strong, hardy, vigorous grower bearing a large
bunch and berry of black color, a good keeper
and shipper. Vine very hardy and produc- .
tive. Season, middle to last of August.

CONCORD— (BLACK)— The best known
of all varieties of grapes, good for market,
table use and juice. It is a very hardy variety
and one that is sure to produce satisfaction
whenever it is planted. Berries medium to
large, juicy, sweet and of high quality. Sea-
son September.

DELAWARE— (RED)— One of the high-
est quality grapes. Vines are small and re-
quire close planting. Fruit, bunches small
compact; berries rather small and round; skin
thin, light red. Season early part of Sep-
tember.

MOORE’S EARLY — (PURPLISH-
BLACK) — A very popular early commercial
variety. Vine hardy, productive. Fruit,
black, with a heavy blue bloom and of the
highest Quality. Some people call it the
“Early Concord.” Season last of August.

MOORE’S DIAMOND— (WHITE)— One
of the finest white grapes, early, very pro-
ductive and hardy. Berries, medium in size,
round, and greenish-yellow in color. Flesh
pale green, juicy, tender and slightly aro-
matic. Season first of September.

NIAGARA— (GREEN)— A very desirable
green grape, bearing large bunches of berries..
Very productive but not as hardy as the Con-
cord. Season September.

WORDEN— (BLACK)— An offspring of
the Concord and very well known. Berries
large, roundish, dark purplish-black and hang
in large clusters. Flesh juicy, fine grained,
sub-acid. You will like the Worden for eating
out of the hand, squeezing juice and cooking
purposes. Season first of September.

Carrie Gooseberry

GOOSEBERRIES

A well known fruit that is very useful for cooking, canning and market. They grow and
produce well in any garden with the same care as Currants. On account of blister rust
quarantine No. 26, we cannot ship gooseberries west of Minnesota, Iowa, Mis-
souri, Arkansas and Louisiana.

CARRIE— A marvel of productiveness and
strong and hardy grower. The fruit is a
maroon color when ripe, and medium size.
Originated in Minn.

CHAUTAUQUA — This is one of the larg-
est and best varieties of gooseberries. Fruit
large, pale green and of excellent quality.

The variety that you will eventually
buy.

DOWNING — Fruit is much larger than
the Houghton, pale green in color and fine

quality. The most widely known variety
and the most popular for canning. A very
hardy, vigorous upright grower and very
productive.

HOUGHTON — Fruit medium size, pale
red, sweet and juicy and of a delicious flavor.
Very hardy and productive.

PEARL — A variety similar to the Downing
but the fruit is larger. Bush hardy, prolific
bearer of yellowish-green berries. Free from
mildew.

t 13 3

Fay’s Prolific Currant

CURRANTS

HE Currant is one of the most valued of the small fruits. They ripen
just before the raspberries. No fruit is more popular for the making of
jellies and preserves. A planting of currants is sure to produce with
care and prove to be a real benefiC'to the planter. There is always a
strong demand on the market for this fruit and a neat little profit can be
derived from planting a good sized bed of currants. On account of
blister rust quarantine No. 26, no currants can be shipped west
of Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas and Louisiana. The
United States Government does not permit the sale or distribution of the
black fruited varieties, claiming they cause a rust that is injurious to other plant life; hence our
reason for not listing these varieties.

CHERRY — Produces clusters of beautiful
large red berries in early July. Fruit strong
acid and very valuable for jelly making. It
is a very good market variety and always
commands a high price.

DIPLOMA — Red currant of a large size,
good quality and very productive. A variety
that is sure to please.

FAY’S PROLIFIC— The name well de-
scribes this variety. It is a strong grower,
being a cross between the Cherry and Vic-
toria and one of the most desirable red
varieties.

LONDON MARKET— A valuable variety
for northern climates. Plant is extremely
hardy and prolific bearer. Berries are large
and of beautiful red color. A good shipper
and keeper.

NORTH STAR — Claimed to be the strong-
est grower of the red varieties. Both berry
and bunch are very large, sweet, rich in
quality and desirable for a dessert fruit as
well as excellent for jellies.

f 14 |

PERFECTION — Berries, a beautiful
bright red, somewhat larger than the Fay’s
and unexcelled in quality. Bush very hardy
and productive.

RED CROSS — Another good variety bear-
ing long clusters of large, light red berries
of good quality.

RED DUTCH — An old familiar variety,
berries medium to small, good quality, and
very productive.

VICTORIA — Berries, medium to large,
bright red, sub-acid. A standard and reliable
variety that will please everybody.

WHITE GRAPE — A very desirable white
currant of a sweet, mild, sub-acid flavor.
Bush very hardy and productive and one
that will satisfy the most exacting planter.

WILDER — Strong, upright grower bearing
clusters of fruit of medium size and excellent
quality. The berry is bright red and sub-
acid in flavor.

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

ASPARAGUS

No garden is complete without an Aspara-
gus bed. After it is planted there is prac-
tically no care required. Everybody enjoys
the fresh, green, tender sprouts when served
up with milk or cream. It is the first green
plant to be taken from the garden in the
spring. We would recommend 100 plants
for a family of three or four; 200 would be
ample for 4 or 5 people. Sprinkle the bed
with 3 lbs. of salt per square yard each spring
and no trouble with weeds will be experienced

CONOVER’S COLOSSAL— This variety
is known for its very large, tender stalks; a
very profitable market sort and one that we
are pleased to recommend to our customers.

WASHINGTON RUST-PROOF— A new

variety introduced by Professor Norton of
the U. S. Department of Agriculture.

The outstanding characteristics of this va-
riety are its rust resisting qualities which are
the result of ten years of careful breeding;
and its extraordinary productive qualities of
large size individual stalks of high quality
and tenderness. This variety is taking the
lead over all others for commercial plantings.

PALMETTO — Superior in quality to the
Conover’s Colossal, it being earlier and a
better vielder.

Myatt’s Linnaeus

Washington Rust Proof Asparagus

RHUBARB

Rhubarb, or Pie Plant as it is sometimes
called, is a very desirable vegetable which
comes on early in the spring. Everybody
knows what good pies can be made from it
and from the fact it takes the place of early
fruit, no garden is complete without a good
number of these roots.

It requires a rich loamy soil and should be
top-dressed every fall with barnyard fer-
rilizer.

MYATT’S LINNAEUS— A new early va-
riety of superior quality. It is noted for its
extreme tenderness. We propagate this va-
riety from root divisions and for that reason
are sure that every plant will be true to type
which is not the case when it is grown from
seed. We especially recommend this variety
to our customers and are sure that it will
give satisfaction.

VICTORIA — Very large stalks and a valu-
able variety for the market or home use.

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

Latham Raspberry- -Our Leader

RASPBERRIES

FRUIT that is very easily grown and always in demand. They ripen after
strawberries and are always in demand for both table use and canning.
No fruit is more easily grown than the raspberry and should have its place in
every garden.

A good sized raspberry patch is a good investment for any planter as they
are always in demand and command the highest prices on the market.

RED RASPBERRIES

CUTHBERT — -An old and tested variety
noted for its hardiness and productiveness.
The berries are very large, conical, bright
red and of an excellent quality.

KING — A well known prolific bearer of
large, bright red berries. Canes free from
rust, very hardy and vigorous grower. A
good berry for the home garden and also a
good commercial berry.

LATHAM OR MINN. No. 4— A new red

raspberry that originated at the Minnesota
Fruit Breeding Farm at St. Paul and combines
all the high qualities of the best varieties and
approaches nearest to perfection of any red
raspberry. Bush is hardy and ironclad, re-
quires no winter covering. The berries are
the largest of any variety grown, very firm

and beautiful dark red in color. The Latham
can well be called the “King of all Red Rasp-
berries.” Do not fail to plant a good number
of this variety as they .are sure to please.

MARLBORO — One of the earliest red
raspberries, large size,- excellent quality and
beautiful in color. A good bearer and very
hardy.

ST. REGIS EVERBEARING— A large
sweet, red raspberry that will continue to
fruit until the first snow of winter. A new
production and the only good everbearing
raspberry known. The fruit is of high quality
and the everbearing habit makes it a profit-
able berry for the planter as raspberries in the
fall are very valuable fruit for market. A
very hardy variety and one that will please.

YELLOW RASPBERRY

GOLDEN QUEEN — An old well known
variety having been originated in 1885 and
by far the best yellow variety known. The
berries are orange-yellow in color, of high
quality and very productive. For those who
want yellow raspberries they can make no
mistake in selecting the Golden Queen.

BLACK RASPBERRIES

CUMBERLAND — The most widely plant-
ed black raspberry. The berries are mammoth
black caps, very firm, glossy black and fine
flavor. Canes, strong growers, hardy and
well adapted for home and commercial plant-
ing. It is called one of the- best black rasp-
berries grown.

I 16 1

Hardy Northern Groscn Trees ,

Plants ,

Shrubs

BLACK RASPBERRIES — Continued

GREGG — An excellent late black cap.
Canes, strong, vigorous growers, very hardy,
bears abundantly.

HONEY SWEET — The name describes
this variety. Berries large, a superb sweet
flavor, jet black in color and very attractive.
A mid-season berry maturing its crop’ quick-

ly. A leader of the black raspberry group.
Very hardy.

KANSAS — A drought resistant variety;
berries very large, jet black and a heavy
cropper.

PLUM FARMER — Bears a crop of Sne,
jet black berries. Excellent for eating,
canning and marketing.

PURPLE RASPBERRY

COLUMBIAN — A new variety of the
Sharier type of remarkable vigor and pro-
ductiveness. Fruit very large, often an inch
in diameter, dark purple in color bordered
with red. Seeds small and imbedded in a
rich juicy pulp. An excellent table berry.

BLACKBERRIES

rtbS^KLACKBERRIES should be
planted in a rich soil and on
I B the north side of trees or a fence

if possible so as to give them
s. little shade. The varieties we
list are the most hardv and desirable.

ANCIENT BRITON— One of the best old
varieties, very vigorous, healthy and hardy,
heavy producer of large berries of fine quality.

EARLY HARVEST — A compact, dwarf
grower, very productive in south but not
very hardy and should be covered for winter
in the north. Berries, medium size, glossy
black and high quality. Early.

ELDORADO — Berries medium size, jet
black, sweet and juicy. Canes hardy, very
productive. Mid season.

STONE'S HARDY — A variety adapted
to severe climates and one of the most hardy
of this class of fruit. Fruit medium size,
juicy, fine flavor and good quality.

Stone's Hardy Blackberry

■SXC ember of

WHEN YOU BUY OF THE NORTH STAR
YOU BUY THE BEST

Senator Dunlap Strawberry

STRAWBERRIES

sarv with varieties we list.

HE Strawberry is a family favorite as a dessert fruit. The gardner always
finds a demand for choice berries and a good financial income is the
reward for planting them. It is the first fruit to ripen and the quickest
to come into bearing after planting.

We list only the perfect flowering varieties; that is, those that will
grow and bear berries without any other varieties near. We do not sell
the Warfield as it is an imperfect flowering variety and will not bear fruit
without some other variety near it. A great many people write us about
the necessity of planting two kinds together, but will say it is not neces-

JUNE OR SUMMER BEARING VARIETIES

BEDERWOOD — A well tested variety,
early to ripen, good producer, fruit good size
and quality.

BRANDYWINE — Plants strong and vigor-
ous, runners very abundant and productive.
Fruit late, very large, firm; color deep crim-
son with dark flesh; excellent quality.

DR. BURRILL — Fruit shaped much like
the Dunlap and ripens about the same time.
Berry large, dark red in color and fine flavor.
An excellent berry for canning and com-
mercial purposes.

GIBSON — A relatively new variety. Ber-
ries beautiful dark red, fine shape and quality.
Plants very productive and bear through a
long season.

SENATOR DUNLAP or sometimes called
the “Dunlap” — Originated in Illinois and one
of the best general use berries ever produced.
We know of no berry so commonly known
and universally popular for both a garden
and commercial variety. Fruit very large,
colored light and dark scarlet, very sweet
and delicious. Mid-season.

EVERBEARING VARIETIES

PROGRESSIVE — A strawberry that will
yield a heavy crop of fruit from May until
the frosts in fall has long been the desire of

plant breeders. This result was obtained
when a hand pollinated cross between an
everbearer and the Dunlap produced a new

Hardy Northern Grown Trees , Plants. Shrubs

STRAWBERRIES— Continued

variety known as the Progressive. Some
nurserymen sell other everbearing varieties;
but we list only the progressive as past ex-
perience has proven the other varieties to be
•of little value and not worth planting. It

you want a good supply of fresh strawberries
all through the summer, plant the Progressive
and your desire will be fulfilled. Fruit large,
moderately firm; far sweeter than the ordi-
nary sorts and of good quality.

It's Not a Home Lndl It's Planted

ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS

;g^gii»;°^s3^E0PLE are realizing more and more the benefits derived from the planting
of ornamental shrubs, trees, roses and plants around the home grounds. The
charm and grace they lend to the landscape < is invaluable and if a careful
selection is made it is possible to have a continuous succession of flowers from
early April until the snow files in the fall. Shrubs marked * are not very
hardy in cold climates without covering for winter.

BERBERIS— BARBERRY

BOX BARBERRY — A new dwarf variety
that promises to be a valuable acquisition
for hedges and group plantings where some-
thing very small is needed. Blossoms yellow,
in June. Mature height 2 ft. Grows well in
shade or sun. This variety does not harbor
wheat rust.

THUhs BERGII — J apanese Barberry — A
shrub of marked excellence on account of its
bright green foliage which changes to a
brilliant copper color in the fall, and its
bright scarlet berries, which are very con-
spicuous throughout the winter. Its habit

of growth is dwarfed and spreading. Grows
well in the shade or sun and is used extensively
for hedges and group plantings. Mature
height 5-4 ft. Blossoms yellow, in June.
This variety does not harbor wheat rust.

“BUDDLEIA — B utterly Bus : — Sometimes
called the Summer Lilac. It dies back to the
ground after the frosts in the fall but comes
up the following spring from the roots. It
can be cut back nearly to the ground each
spring. Blossoms continuously from July
until the fall frosts. Blossom is a lilac colored
tapering panicle six to ten inches long.
Mature height 4-5 ft.

[ 19 }

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

SHRUBS— Continued

CARAGANA ARBORESCENS — Siberian
Pea Tree — A large shrub having green bark
and large compound leaves, consisting of 8 to
12 bright green leaflets. Very valuable for
hedges, shrub borders and groupings. It
blossoms in June a yellow flower followed by

a green berry very much resembling a pea.
Very hardy and desirable for arid regions.
Mature height 8-10 ft. Stands pruning well
and can be grown for a very compact hedge.
This shrub has been called the Canadian
Privet.

CORNUS— DOGWOODS

AUREA — Yellow Barked Dogwood — A . va-
riety particularly known for its bright yellow
bark and used very much for color in group
plantings. Mature height 5-6 ft. Blossom
white in June.

ELEGANTISSIMA — Variegated Leaf Dog-
wood— This variety carries with it all of the
beauty of the Dogwoods in having a beautiful
red bark and beautifully variegated leaves
which add a charm to plantings that no other
shrub possesses. Grows well in sun. Blos-
soms white, in June. Mature height 5-6 ft.

SIBERICA — Red Twigged Dogwood — Good
for border groupings, where the smooth, slen-
der, bright red branches in winter make a
pleasing contrast with evergreens and snow.
It bears small white blossoms in June.
Hardy, thrives well in shade. Mature height
6-8 ft.

STOLONIFERA — Red Osier Dogwood —
Similar to the Cornus Siberica although the
twigs do not color as well, but the foliage has
better autumn color. Mature height 6-8 ft.
Flowers white, in June.

GOTONEASTER

ACUTIFOLIA — Peking Cotoneaster — A month of June. A favorite for the west and

very hardy shrub well adapted for hedge Northwest. Grows well in shade or sun.

plantings. Flower pinkish, white, during the

DEUTZIA

*PRIDE OF ROCHESTER— A beautiful pink during May and June. Grows best in
shrub that bears white flowers, tinged with sunlight. Mature height 5-6 ft.

DIERVILLA— WEIGELIA

AMABILIS — Rose Weigelia — This shrub
is^an old garden favorite with good foliage of
broad, dark-green leaves. Blossoms abund-
antly in June with flowers of rose-pink and
trumpet shape. Mature height 4-5 ft.

*EVA RATHKE — Crimson Weigelia — very
beautiful dwarf type; blossoms deep crimson,
in June. Mature height 3-4 ft.

ROSEA— Pink Weigelia — Not only one of

the best species, but one of the choicest
shrubs. It blossoms in June and July and at
intervals all summer. Flowers rose-pink’.
Grows well in smoke and dust.

VARIEGATA — Variegated Weigelia —
Dense grower, leaves variegated with white
and yellow. Flowers pink, a beautiful shrub
in leaf and bloom. Blossoms in June. Ma-
ture height 5-6 ft.

ELAEAGNUS

ANGUSTIFOLIA — RussianOlive — A large Flowers yellow, in June. Mature height
shrub, with silvery, often spiny branches. 6-8 ft. Grows well in sun.

Leaves light green above, silver beneath.

EUONYMOUS

ALATUS — Winged Burning Bush — Of
dwarf, compact habit; wood very corky in
appearance; leaves small; fruit red. Blos-
som yellowish-red, in June. Mature height
5-6 fft.

AMERICANUS — Brook Euonymous — This

variety is sometimes called the American
Burning Bush or Strawberry Bush. Grows
tall, hardy and beautiful. Flowers yellowish-
red, in June. Fruit resembles a strawberry in
fall, a beautiful red and very decorative in
appearance. Mature height 7-8 ft.

I 20 1

H ardy iV orthern Grown Trees, Plants , Shrubs

O&IjIj&so

SHRUBS — Continued

FORSYTHIA

* INTERMEDIA — Upright Golden Bell-
One. of the first shrubs to blossom in spring;
sometimes covered with beautiful golden
bell-shaped blossoms in April before the snow
has left the ground. An upright grower.
Mature height 6-8 ft.

SUSPENSA FORTUNEI — F ortune's Gold-
en Bell — Resembles the Intermedia only that
it is of a drooping spreading habit and needs
plenty of room in order to develop. Very
valuable for group borders and dense screens.
Flowers beautiful yellow in April. Mature
height 4-5 ft.

HYDRANGEA

ARBORESCENS — Hills of Snow — An up-
right shrub with bright green leaves. Flowers
creamy-white, during June and July. It
makes a fine border or floral hedge when
planted alternately with Hydrangea Panicu-
lata, forms a most conspicuous hedge with
continuous flowering period from June until
fall. Mature height 3-5 ft. Should be se-
verely pruned in March.

PANICULATA —Hydrangea P. G.— Un-
doubtedly the most popular variety of Hy-
drangea and one of the showiest shrubs in
cultivation. It has immense cone-shaped
blossoms on drooping branches. The flower
is white at first, and later turns to a shade of
pink and then to a shade of brown and re-
mains on the bushes all winter. This shrub
should be cut back severely in March of
each year to insure flowers. Mature height

5-6 ft.

PANICULATA — Tree Hydrangea — This is
the same variety as the Hydrangea P. G.
only it has been trimmed and cultivated to a
tree form. A fine shrub for specimen plant-
ings in lawns, parks and cemeteries.

Hydrangea P. G.

LIGUSTRUM— PRIVET

AMURENSE — Amoor River North Privet
— The Chinese variety, much hardier than
the other varieties. Leaves dark green and
cling to the shrub until late into the winter
and in the South it is nearly evergreen.
Flowers white, in June followed by black
berries. One of the best plants for hedges.
Mature height 6-8 ft. when allowed to grow
without pruning.

REGELIANUM — Re gel’s Privet— This va-
riety is somewhat spreading in its habits of
growth and the leaves are longer and nar-
rower than other privets. Used for founda-
tion and lawn borders. Berries remain on
all winter and are very attractive.

Flowers white, in June. Mature height
4-5 ft.

LONICERA— HONEYSUCKLE

BELLA ALBIDA — White Bell Honeysuckle
— A wide spreading shrub with large leaves,
and producing a great array of white, fragrant
flowers in April and May. Very attractive in
late summer by its wealth of red berries
formed in rope-like masses on the branches.
Mature height 6-8 ft.

MORROWII — Morrow's Prostrate Honey-
suckle— The bush honeysuckles are hardy,
fast growing, have fine foliage and are very

useful in any shrub grouping. Flowers white,
in May and June, followed by attractive red
berries that hang on bushes until early winter.
Mature height 5-6 ft. Very spreading in its
habits of growth.

TARTARIC A ALBA — White Tartarian
Honeysuckle — More upright in growth than
the Morrow’s and very desirable for shrub
groupings. Blossoms white in May and June.
Mature height 6-8 ft. Very hardy. The

[ 21 1

. North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

SHRUBS— Continued

bright red berries are very attractive in Au-
tumn.

TARTARICA ROSEA — Pink Tartarian
Honeysuckle — Resembles the White Tar-
tarian except it bears an abundance of fra-
grant pink flowers during May and June.
Very hardy, upright grower. Mature height

6-8 ft. Bears bright red berries that are very
attractive.

TARTARICA RUBRA — Red Tartarian
Honeysuckle — Same as the pink and white
varieties except it bears a beautiful red flower
in May and June, followed by attractive red
berries through late Summer and Fall.
Mature height 6-8 ft.

MALUS— APPLE

BECHTELI — Bechtel’s Flowering Crab — A
beautiful flowering crab apple used for deco-

rative purposes. Flowers pink, in May.
Mature height 10-12 ft.

Philadelphus Coronarius or Mock Orange

PHILADELPHUS— MOCK OR-
ANGE OR SYRINGA

CORONARIUS — Sweet Scented Mock Or-
ange — A hardy shrub, with upright, often
arching branches, attaining a height of 8-10
ft. A Native of Europe. Flowers creamy
white, very fragrant and borne in great pro-
fusion. Blossoms in May and June.

CORONARIUS AUREA — Golden Syringa
— This shrub is very compact in its habits of
growth and is valuable for color contrast in
plantings as the leaves are a brilliant yellow
in spring. Flowers white, in May and June.
Mature height 4-5 ft.

GRANDIFLORUS — Large Scentless Mock
Orange — The flowers of this variety are white
and very large with very little fragrance.
Vigorous and spreading in growth and valu-
able for shrub borders. Mature height 8-10 ft.

LEMOINEI — Lemoine’s Syringa — The
branches are slender and arching. Flowers
white and double borne in large racemes,
very fragrant. This is a dwarf variety and sel-
dom ever grows higher than four feet. Blos-
soms in May.

PHYSOCARPUS— NINEBARK

OPULIFOLIA — Common Ninebark — A
strong growing shrub with dull green foliage;
flowers in clusters about three inches across.
Blossoms white, in June. Mature height
6-8 ft.

OPULIFOLIA AUREA — GOLDEN

NINEBARK — Golden Spirea — An exception-
ally fine variety, not only for its flowers but
for its. golden foliage. This variety is often
wrongly called Golden Spirea. Good for
color work in plantings. Blossoms white in
June. Mature height 6-8 ft.

PRUNUS— PLUM

GLANDULOSA ROSEA — Double Flower-
ing Almond — Very attractive in spring when
it is covered with showy, double pink, rose-
like flowers. It blossoms before the leaves
come out in May. Mature height 4-5 ft.

RED LEAF PLUM— One of Mr. Haral-

son’s crosses during his work with plums.
The leaves of this tree are a bright red
throughout the season. Blossoms are reddish-
white in May followed by a small fruit that
has no commercial value, merely ornamental.
This shrub offers great possibilities for color
in the landscape work.

f 22 1

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

SHRUBS— Continued

TRILOBA — Flowering Plum — Upright in
growth, with slender branches, completely
covered with double flowers. Good among
tall shrubs. This variety as well as the pre-
ceding are generally grafted on Prunus ameri-

cana stock and should be planted so that the
grafted part is at least six inches below the
surface of the ground. Flowers rose color,
in May. Mature height 5-6 ft.

RHAMNUS— BUCKTHORN

CATHARTICA — Common Buckthorn — A
native of Europe noted for its hardiness, dark
green foliage, white flowers followed by a very

attractive black fruit. Used extensively for
hedges and very decorative. Mature height
when not clipped for hedges, 6-8 ft.

RHODOTYPUS— WHITE KERRIA

KERRIOIDES — White Kerria or Jetbead—
Of Japanese origin. A very ornamental
shrub with bright foliage and single white
flowers, about one and one-half inches across.

which are followed by conspicuous, shining
black berries in autumn and winter. Blos-
soms in May and June. Mature height
4-5 ft.

RHUS— SUMAC

COTINUS— Purple Fringe or Smoke Tree —
A shrub that is much admired for its curious
fringe, or hair-like flowers, that cover the
whole plant in mid-summer. Due to its
smoky appearance it has been called the
Smoke Tree by many. Blossoms yellowish-
green in June. Mature height 10-12 ft.
Requires lots of space.

GLABRA — Common Smooth Sumac — The
common native variety used where natural
groupings are desired. Fruits in large, showy

crimson cluster in fall. Mature height
12-14 ft.

TYPHINA — Staghorn Sumac — Similar to
the Common Sumac only that the bark is
covered with fine velvety hairs resembling a
Stag’s Horn.

TYPHINA LACINIATA — Cut-leaf Stag-
horn Sumac — A variety of the Staghorn
Sumac with deeply cut fern-like leaflets. It
colors a rich crimson in autumn and is ex-
cellent for massing or when grown as single
specimens. Mature height 8-10 ft.

RIBES— CURRANT

On account of blister rust quarantine
No. 26, no currants can be shipped west
of Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas
and Louisiana.

The United States Government does not per-
mit the sale or distribution of the black fruited
varieties such as the Ribes Nigrum or Aureum,
claiming they cause a rust that is injurious to

other plant life', hence, our reason for not
listing these varieties.

ALPINUM — Alpine or A-Iountain Currant
— A dense, upright growing shrub with a
deep green foliage and numerous fragrant,
yellow flowers. It is considered to be the
best of flowering Currants. Most useful in
dry soils where other shrubs will not grow.
Used extensively for hedges. Blossoms in
May. Mature height 3 ft.

RUBUS— RASPBERRY

ODORATUS — Purple Flowering Raspberry
A strong growing shrub with very large, at-
tractive leaves and large rose-purple flowers
one-half inch in diameter. Prefers rich,

shady locations. Very valuable for landscape
work. Blossoms all summer. Mature height
4-5 ft.

SAMBUCUS— ELDER

CANADENSIS — Common American Elder
— Valuable for group plantings where large
shrubs are desired. Hardy, vigorous and will
thrive in most any location. Berries are
valuable for pies. Flowers white, in June.
Mature height 6-8 ft.

CANADENSIS AUREA — Golden Elder —
Similar to the Common Elder except, the
foliage is a beautiful yellow and used for
color contrast in shrub groupings. Very
hardy. Blossoms white, June and July.
Mature height 6-8 ft.

[ 23

1

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville , Wis.

SHRUBS — Continued

CANADENSIS LACINIATA — Cut-leaf
Elder — This variety is much like the Common
Elder, the foliage is cut-leaved. Used in
groupings for contrast of foliage. Blossoms
white, in June. Mature height 5-6 ft.

RACEMOSA — Red-berried Elder — A pyra-
midal shrub, with large deep green foliage
and showy red fruit in autumn. Good
among coarse shrubs, particularly in moist
soil. Blossoms white, in May. Mature
height 5-6 ft.

SPIRAE— SPIREA

Spirea Anthony Waterer

ANTHONY WATERER — Spirea A. W. —
Resembles the Bumalda only that it is
more dwarf in its habits and the flowers are a
bright crimson in color. It may be kept
flowering continually throughout the summer
by cutting away the old blossoms. Used for
low hedges along sidewalks and drives and
also for borders to shrub groupings. Mature
height 2 ft.

ARGUTA — Snow Garland — Very useful
and beautiful shrub with dense light green
foliage. Flowers in many clusters along the
drooping slender branches, giving the shrub
the appearance of a bank of snow. Blossoms
white, in May. Mature height 4-5 ft.

BILLARDI — Steeple Bush — Upright in
growth, with red-brown branches, dull green
foliage and dense spikes of flowers about
6 inches long. Good for side hills and dry
places. Mature height 5-6 ft. Blossoms in
July and August, bright pink.

BUMALDA — Compact, low-growing shrub
with dense foliage which is sometimes varie-
gated with pink and white when young.
Flowers, light pink, showy flat clusters borne
on erect stems. Excellent for masses in
front of taller growing shrubs. Resembles the
Anthony Waterer but grows stronger. Blos-
soms July and August and will continue thru
the fall if the old flowers are kept pruned off.
Mature height 2-3 ff.

CALLOSA ALBA — A dwarf Japanese va-
riety used for group facings. Blossoms,
white, nearly all summer. Mature height
2-3 ft. Blossoms June to September.

CALLOSA ROSEA — Same as preceding
variety only the flower is pink. Mature
height 2-3 ft. Blossoms June to September.

CALLOSA RUBRA — Same as above ex-
cept flower is red. Mature height 2-3 ft.
Blossoms June to September.

FROEBELLA — FroebeUs Spirea — Similar
to the Anthony Waterer but grows higher.
Flowers bright crimson, in July and August.
Mature height 3-4 ft.

*PRUNIFOLIA — Bridal Wreath— One of
the earliest of the double spireas to bloom.
Flowers about one-quarter of an inch across
in dense clusters along the slender upright
branches. A very pretty shrub but not too
hardy. Blossoms white, in May. Mature
height 4-5 ft.

SORBIFOLIA — Sorb's Spirea — The leaves
of this variety resemble those of the Moun-
tain Ash tree. Flowers grow in large showy
white panicles during July. Mature height
4-5 ft.

VAN HOUTTEI — Van Houtte’s Spirea—
One of the most handsome and useful of
the hardy shrubs, having pure white flowers
in cluster or panicles about an inch in diam-
eter. Blossoms in May and is usually at its
height of beauty about Memorial Day.
Valuable as a hedge or specimen planting
either singly or in grouping where early
floral color is desired. Every home grounds
should have its quota of this shrub. This
variety is wrongly called Bridal Wreath by
many. Mature height 5-6 ft.

f 24 1

Hardy Northern Grown Trees , Plants , Shrubs

SHRUBS — Continued

VULGARIS — Snowberry Red, Coral Berry
or Indian Currant — Useful for covering banks
and dry spots. It is spreading in habit of
growth and its long slender branches bend
gracefully towards the ground. Blossom pink
in July, followed by clusters of red berries
about the size of a currant. Grows well in
shady places. Mature height 3-4 ft.

Spirea Van Houttei

SYRINGA— LILAC

SYMPHORICARPOS— SNOW-
BERRY

RACEMOSUS — Snowberry White — A well
known shrub having small pink flowers in
July and followed by large white berries that
remain through the early part of the winter.
The white berries are the most attractive
characteristic of the shrub. Mature height

4-5 ft.

ALBA — Common White Lilac — One of the
most widely known shrubs and valuable for
group plantings where large shrubs are de-
sired. Blossoms white, in May and June.
Mature height 8-10 ft.

CHARLES X — A strong growing variety
with large shining leaves. Blossoms in May,
reddish-purple. Mature height 6-8 ft. Single
flower.

JAPONICA — Japanese Tree Lilac — A pyra-
midal tree with upright branches and pale
green leaves. The panicles of flowers are
often more than a foot long. Blossoms white,
June and July. Mature height 20-25 ft.

JOSIKAEA — Hungarian Lilac — Grows
tree-like with dark, shining leaves and purple
flowers in June. Mature height 10-12 ft.

MADAM LEMOINE — Double, pure white

blossoms in May. A superb variety, very
showy. Mature height 6-8 ft.

PERSICA — Persian Lilac — Grows from
4-5 ft. high. Blossoms during May and June,
pale lilac flowers. Very pretty among other
shrubs.

VILLOSA — Late blooming lilac. Flowers
large, light purple in bud, white when open
and very fragrant. Blossoms in May and
June. -Mature height 8-10 ft.

VULGARIS — Common Purple Lilac —
Probably the most well known variety of all,
very hardy and attractive. It is useful in
masses of shrubbery and often used in mak-
ing coarse hedges and screens. To keep the
shrub low and bushy it should be pruned
severely each year, but pruning must be done
immediately after the blossoming season.
Flowers bluish-purple, in May. Mature
height 8-10 ft.

TAMARIX

AFRICANA — A pretty shrub with fine,
feathery, light green foliage; flowers small and
pink in close clusters. Upright in growth
and beautiful in masses with tall shrubs.
Blossoms in April and May. Mature height
8-10 ft.

ODESSANA — Blossoms pink, somewhat
later than the Africana. Excellent for group-
ings and evergreen effect..

Flowers in August. Mature height
8-10 ft.

VIRBURNUM

ACERIF OLIUM — Maple-Leaved Vibur-
num— Foliage resembles the red maple.
Good for low places or under heavy shade.
Flowers yellowish white, in May. Mature
height 4-5 ft. Fruit almost black.

AMERICANUM — A merican High Bush
Cranberry — A native variety and much more
desirable than the European or opulus as it
does not attract aphae which has always been
a serious menace to the opulus. It is very

f 25 1

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

I

SHRUBS — Continued

hardy. Blossoms in May and June white
flowers followed by beautiful red berries that
resemble the cranberry. The berries cling
until late into the winter and lend color to
the winter landscape. Mature height 6-8 ft.

CASSINOIDES — Withe- Rod — An upright
shrub with dark, glossy-green foliage; flowers
in flat heads about three inches across. Fruit
light blue and very ornamental. Blossoms
white, in June. Fine for shrubbery borders.

DENTATUM — Arrow Wood — Flowers
greenish-white, in May and June. A fine
shrub for massing for foliage effect. Mature
height 6-8 feet. Fruit blue-black.

LANTANA — Wayfaring Tree — Upright in
its habits of growth, rough foliage, light green
above and silvery beneath. Stout upright
branches and large heads of white flowers in
May and June followed by showy clusters of
bright red fruit. Mature height 8-10 ft.

LENTAGO — Nanny or Sheep Berry —
Grows upright with slender branches and

deep green leaves which resemble the Cas-
sinoides. Blossoms white in May and June.
Fruit blue-black and very ornamental. Ma-
ture height 8-10 ft.

OPULUS — European High Bush Cranberry
— Both ornamental and useful. It bears a
white flower in May and June which is fol-
lowed by beautiful red berries that resemble
the cranberry. They cling to the bushes until
late into the winter and are very beautiful.
This variety attracts the aphae and must be
sprayed with “Black Leaf 40” several times
during the summer. Mature height 6-8 ft.

OPULUS STERILIS — Common Snowball
— Dense and spreading in growth, very dis-
tinctive while in bloom- and has the appear-
ance of a snowball. Very beautiful. The
aphae also infest this variety and it is neces-
sary to spray it several times during the
growing season with “Black Leaf 40” to de-
stroy the pest. Blossoms snow white, in
May and June. Mature height 6-8 ft.

EVERGREENS

HE value of evergreens for some features of ornamental gardening cannot
be estimated. They lend an elegance, richness and beauty when planted
in the intimacy of the home grounds or formal garden. They lend a
coolness and spicy fragrance about them in the heat of summer; and a
warmth and beauty in their branches when they are clad with ice and
snow of winter. They are a representation of perpetual life throughout
the whole year and should always be given a place in the landscape.

Evergreens are also valuable for windbreaks around bleak and un-
sheltered situations. One or two rows about the building site will cut
t completely and move your home a considerable distance south by making

it warmer.

PICEA— SPRUCE

ALBA — White Spruce — One of the most
beautiful of the Spruce family. It resembles
the Balsam Fir in shape when young, but is
broader at the base when large. The foliage
is finer than that of the Norway Spruce and
of a silvery green color. Tree very hardy.

Mature height 50-75 feet.

EXCELSA — Norway Spruce — A lofty ele-
gant tree, of perfect pyramidal habit; re-
markably elegant and rich; and as it becomes
aged, has fine, graceful pendulous branches.

It is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful.

Fine for windbreak planting.Fast grower and
hardy. Mature height 50-75 feet.

CANADENSIS — Black Hills Spruce— A
native of the Black Hills, very compact,
shapely and of deep green. This evergreen

is well adapted to arid regions as well as Norway Spruce in Winter

II 26 1

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

EVERGREENS — Continued

high altitudes. Very hardy. Used extensive-
ly for foundation plantings.

PUNGENS — Colorado Blue Spruce — A slow
growing tree with branches .broad and fan-
shaped. This species has been tested at
various points on the prairies of the West

and Northwest with perfect success. It is
one of the most beautiful in color and out-
line; foliage of a rich blue or sage color. It
has been called the King of the Spruces
clothed in royal robes of silver and sapphire.
A beautiful tree for lawn planting.

ABIES— THE FIRS

BALSAMEA — Balsam Fir — Tree conical in
form; foliage deep green on upper surface
and silvery on lower. A very symmetrical
tree and very beautiful. Mature height
50-60 ft.

CONCOLOR — Silver Fir — A very beauti-
ful species with silver gray bark on young
branches; leaves long and beautifully silvered;
equal in color and beauty to the Colorado
Blue Spruce. Mature height 40-50 ft.

JUNIPERUS— CEDAR

CHINENSIS PFITZERIANA — PfitzeFs
Juniper — One of the handsomest of the semi-
dwarf junipers. It is of a billowy form and
beautiful in appearance. Mature height 5-6 ft.

PINUS

AUSTRIACA — Austrian or Black Pine — A
native of the mountains of Syria. Its growth
even when young, is characteristically stout
and sturdy. A remarkably robust, hardy,
spreading tree of grand size. A valuable
variety for the dry sections. Mature height
40-50 ft.

BANKSIANA — Jack Pine — The most
northern and easiest transplanted of all
American pines; withstands drouths and
hardships better than any other; rather ir-
regular in growth; foliage bright green with
needles short and stiff. Valuable for groves

SABINA — Savin’s Juniper — Spreading fan
shape habit, of pleasing color of dark green.
Stands in city dust well. Mature height
3-4 ft.

PINES

and windbreaks. Will grow most anywhere.
Mature height 30-40 ft.

SYLVESTRIS — Scotch Pine— A native of
the British Isles. One of the most rugged of
all evergreens; a fast grower which will
stand most any climate. An ideal evergreen
for the windbreak. Mature height 40-50 ft.

MUGHUS — Mugho Pine — A very beauti-
ful dwarf mountain pine. It forms a low top
with ascending branches and the breadth of
the tree is often double its height. Foliage
bright green. A valuable tree for ornamental
planting. Mature height 3 ft.

THUYA— ARBOR VITAE

GLOBOSA — Globe Arbor Vitae — A dense
light green evergreen of dwarf habits and
shaped round like a ball. Fine for specimen
plantings. Mature height 2-3 ft.

OCCIDENTALIS — American Arbor Vitae
— Used largely for hedges, screens, singly on
lawns and in tubs and boxes for porches. It
is a handsome little tree and if allowed to
grow naturally will be quite tall and pyra-
midal in shape. Stands severe pruning and
can be trimmed to any desired shape. In

summer the foliage is bright green above,
yellowish beneath and in winter changes to
the richest tones of brown and bronze.
Mature height 15-20 ft., when not trim-
med.

ORIENTALIS — Pyramidal Arbor Vitae —
A new and hardy sort, of very compact habit
of growth; much better than the Irish Juniper
and grows to a perfect column. Largely used
for specimen plantings around porches and
cemeteries. Mature height 6-8 ft.

ORNAMENTAL HEDGES,
SCREENS AND WINDBREAKS

An ornamental hedge or screen is the frame to the landscape picture as well as lending
dignity and privacy to the home grounds. The varieties we list are the most desirable on
account of their extreme hardiness.

I 27 1

North Star Nursery Co., ' Pardeeville, JVis.

HEDGES, SCREENS, WINDBREAKS, Continued

EVERGREENS

THUYA OCCIDENT ALIS — American
Arbor Vitae or White Cedar — Makes a fine
evergreen hedge, free from insect pests and
can be clipped to any desired shape or size.
This variety can also be used as a screen
which will attain a height of 12-15 feet if not
pruned back. Plant 1 ft. apart for hedges.

PICEA EXCELSA — Norway Spruce — This
evergreen is used more for a windbreak and

screen which will grow to a height of 20-25
feet. Very hardy and just the thing to shelter
a bleak location.

PINUS SYLVESTRIA — Scotch. Pine— A
well known hardy variety of pine which
grows very thick and bushy. It will grow well
on very poor soil which makes it a pop-
ular evergreen for a screen or windbreak.
Mature height 25-30 ft.

DECIDUOUS

(Those shrubs and trees that drop their leaves in winter.)

BERBERIS THtJNBERGII — Japanese
Barberry — The ideal hedge to keep intruders
from crossing the lawn or any other private
situation. It makes a beautiful hedge either
clipped or unclipped. Mature height with-
out pruning 2-3 ft.

CARAGANA ARBORESCENS — Siberian
Pea Tree — Makes an excellent clipped hedge
and also a high screen if not pruned. Bark
is green and very beautiful. Very hardy and
will thrive in dry situations. Plant 1 ft.
apart for hedges.

COTONEASTER ACUTIFOLIA— Peking
Cotoneaster — A new and desirable hedge plant
of a semi-evergreen nature. Very desirable
for a clipped hedge. Hardy and will grow
in either sun or shade. The leaves are a
deep shiny green, very dense and attractive.

LONICERA TARTARICA ROSEA

Pink Tartarian Honeysuckle— This variety
makes a beautiful screen as it will attain the
height of 6-8 ft. if not clipped. The beautiful
pink, fragrant flowers in June together with
the beautiful green foliage makes it a very
popular shrub for hedges and screens. It
stands clipping well and can be made to
grow any desired shape.

LIGUSTRUM AMURENSE — Amoor
River North Privet — One of the most popular
varieties for clipped hedges known to the
trade. It is very hardy and an upright
grower. It is semi-evergreen in its habits of
growth. Should be planted 1 ft. apart for a
dense hedge.

RHAMNUS CATHARTICA — Buckthorn
— A very hardy hedge, generally trimmed 4-5
ft. high. Coarser than the Privet.

SYRINGA VULGARIS— Common Purple
Lilac — Makes a very practical hedge 4-5 ft.
high and is also used as a screen. Stands
pruning well and is very hardy.

Spirea Van Houttei Hedge

SPIREA VAN HOUTTEI— Makes a beau-
tiful floral hedge which forms a bank of white
during May which together with its attrac-
tive foliage makes it a very desirable hedge
throughout the season. Generally used for
untrimmed hedge.

ROSA RUGOSA — Everyone knows the
beauty of a rose hedge. Very hardy and
vigorous grower. Flowers red from May to
September, followed by large red seed pods
which cling to the bushes all winter.

ROSA SETIGERA — Prairie Rose — One of
the finest varieties for hedge planting. Blos-
soms pink from May until September.

MORUS TARTARICA — Russian Mul-
berry— Used extensively for windbreaks.
Stands trimming well and grows rapidly.
Makes a fine hedge 4-5 ft. high.

SALIX PENTANDRA — Laurel Leaf Wil-
low— Upright and spreading in growth, with
chestnut colored bark and large, shining,
dark green foliage. Good for screens and
windbreaks and quick effects.

SALIX VITELLINA AUREA — Golden
Willow — An upright spreading tree with
golden-yellow bark and narrow, silky, hairy
leaves. Good for windbreak planting or in
wet places.

POPULUS EUGENEI —Carolina Poplar—
Spreading and rapid in growth. Leaves
large, dark and glossy. Good for windbreaks.

I 28 ]

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

SHADE, ORNAMENTAL TREES

|0 0 MUCH cannot be
said for the beauty and
value of trees for the
home grounds and street
plantings. We can all
recall the delightful and
refreshing shade they of-
er during the hot days of
summer. Every tree that
we plant will be monuments of beauty for
future generations to enjoy. Varieties mark-
ed (*) not hardy in cold climates.

ACER— MAPLE

DASYCARPUM — Silver Maple— A well
known rapid growing tree of large size, irregu-
lar rounded form; foliage bright green above
and silvery beneath; a favorite street and
park tree. Very hardy and vigorous. Mature
height 80-100 ft.

NEGUNDO — Ash Leaf Maple or Box
Elder — Spreading in its habits of growth,
hardy, vigorous and excellent for shelter
belts. Mature height 40-50 ft. Grows well
on poor dry soil.

Silver Maple

AESCULUS— HORSE CHESTNUT

HIPPOCASTANUM — White Flowering height of 40 to 60 feet. Bears beautiful white
Horse Chestnut — A large tree growing to a flowers in May. Requires rich soil.

BETULA— BIRCH

ALBA — European White Birch — A beauti- front of a background of evergreens. Lends a
ful tree with snow-white bark and spray-like delicate and refined effect to any planting,
branches. Can be used very effectively in Mature height 40-50 ft.
landscape work especially when grown in

CATALPA

SPECIOSA — Western Catalpa — Very
hardy and vigorous grower. Bears large
fragrant white flowers with brown spots in
center during July. An ornamental tree, fine
for lawns, or to border driveways through
parks. This tree is prized highly for timber

such as poles, posts and railroad ties. Just
the tree to plant on waste land and grow a
supply of valuable timber which is so much
in demand at this time. Mature height
40-50 ft.

FRAXINUS — ASH

AMERICANA — A merican White Ash — A. foliage. Free from most insect pests and a
good tree for large lawns or for street-planting. very desirable tree to plant. Mature height
Spreading in its growth and of rather open 50-60 ft.

J U GL AN S — WALNUT

NIGRA — Black Walnut — This tree attains nuts. The wood is prized highly for furniture
great size and bears large quantities of edible making. Mature height 60-70 ft.

I 29 ]

North Star Nursery Co.j Pardeeville, Wis.

SHADE AND ORNAMENTAL TREES— Continued

POPULUS— POPLAR

EUGENEI — Carolina Poplar — Very rapid
grower. Leaves large, dark and glossy.
Good for screens and places where quick
shade is desired. Mature height 40-50 ft.

SALIX— WILLOW

VITELLINA PENDULA NOVA— Niobe
Weeping Willow — One of Professor Hanson’s
introductions from Russia. A very hardy tree
with graceful, drooping, golden twigs and is
very desirable for park, lawn and cemetery
plantings. The finest Weeping Willow on
the market today. Mature height 40 ft.

PENTANDRA — Laurel Leaved Willow —
Upright and spreading in growth, with chest-
nut-colored bark and large, shining dark-
green leaves. Good for screens and quick
effects. Mature height 25-30 ft.

VITELLINA AUREA — Golden-harked Wil-
low— The bright yellow bark of" this tree
makes it very attractive during the winter
months. The foliage is also very attractive.
Mature height 30-40 ft.

SORBUS— MOUNTAIN ASH

AMERICANA — American Mountain Ash
— Open in growth with spreading branches.
Foliage light green and rough. Fruit bright
red in showy clusters. A very attractive
small tree and particularly so if planted
among tall evergreens. Mature height 20-30 ft.

AUCUPARIA — European Mountain Ash —
Resembles the American Mountain Ash
very closely. The red berries hanging in
clusters in the late summer and fall make it a
very attractive tree. Mature height 20-30 ft.

ULMUS— ELM

AMERICANA — American White Elm —
A tall, graceful, wide-spreading tree with

outward curving and drooping branches.
The Elm is one of the grandest and most pic-
turesque of the American trees. Very hardy
and will thrive in most any situation. One
of the best street trees on the market. Ma-
ture height 80-100 ft.

GLABRA CAMPERDOWNI — Camper-
down Weeping Elm — One of the finest droop-
ing lawn trees, the long branches spread
horizontally in an attractive way and then
gracefully turn down, forming a beautiful
natural arbor. Mature height 10-15 ft.

American Elm

ROSES

If you are interested in other varieties of roses, write us as space does not
permit our listing same in this Manual.

i?HE rose has justly been termed the “Queen of the Garden” for the reason of
its refined texture, fragrance and variety of colors.

Roses are great lovers of sunshine and should be planted in sheltered positions
with full exposure to the sunlight. They are also great soil feeders and should
have their bed wel fertilized each year.

The varieties we list are the most hardy and desirable for general planting.

HYBRID PERPETUALS

AMERICAN BEAUTY— A well known
and popular rose. Blossoms a deep pink,

very fragrant. Blooms from June to No-
vember.

f 30 1

Grass An Teplitz Rose

ROSES — Continned

ALFRED COLOMB — Brilliant carmine-
red, very large and fragrant. Blossoms from
June to November.

ANNA DE DIESBACH — Brilliant car-
mine, fragrant and a long period bloomer,
beginning in June and ending in November.

FISHER HOLMES— One of the choicest,
sweet scented, velvety crimson and of more
than unusual beauty in both bud and flower.
June to September.

FRAU KARL DRUSGHKI — An immense,
pure white, perfectly double rose, sometimes
almost 6 inches in diameter, abundantly
produced in June and if kept growing, con-
tinues blooming all summer. This rose won
second place in the American Rose Society’s
“Favorite Dozen.”

GENERAL JACQUEMINOT — The

“Jack” Rose, a long time favorite, brilliant
crimson, from June to November.

J. B. CLARK — Intense, deep scarlet
blooms shaded blackish-maroon, of immense
size and moderate fragrance. A vigorous
grower with strong upright canes. June to
November.

MAGNA CHARTA— Very large, rosy
pink, often tinted carmine, remaining on the
plant for a long time in "good condition.
June to November.

MARSHALL P. WILDER— One of the

most desirable in its class. Bright crimson-
scarlet and very fragrant. June to Novem-
ber.

PAUL NEYRON — Deep pink and one of
the best roses for out door culture. June to
November.

HYBRID TEA

GRUSS AN TEPLITZ— An extremely use-
ful and dependable variety, succeeding well all
over the United States. A constant bloomer
of clear crimson-scarlet, fragrant flowers from

June until the frost. An excellent bedding
rose and one that should have a place in
every garden.

RUGOSAS

CONRAD F. MEYER— Very large, dou-
ble, showy, clear silvery-rose flowers, strongly
fragrant, on large, long stems. Blooms free-
ly all summer.

HANSA — Large, full, double, reddish-

violet blooms. The bush is a vigorous
grower and profuse bloomer. Blossoms all
summer. Good for bedding and shrub
grouping. Very hardy and needs no covering
during the winter.

I 31 ]

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, Wis.

ROSES — Continued

ROSA RUGOSA — The flowers of this rose
are three inches across and borne singly on
terminal clusters. Leaves are a dark, lus-
trous green and valuable for landscape work.
We can furnish this variety in white, pink and

red if desired. Blooms continuously from
June to September, followed by attractive
red fruits in autumn. Valuable for hedges and
shrub groupings.

ROSE SPECIES

ROSA HUGONIS — Takes first place
among the single flowered roses, and prob-
ably among the best shrubs for general
garden use. Flower pale clear yellow, deli-
cately fragrant, flowers inches across.

Valuable for shrub borders. Very hardy.
Blossoms nearly all summer.

ROSA RUBRIFOLIA— A very unusual
;rose because of its peculiar reddish foliage.

MOSS

CRESTED MOSS — Rose-colored, sweetly
perfumed flowers with beautiful crested buds.
Blossoms in June.

HENRI MARTIN — Unusually well

Flowers are pink inches across, and borne
in clusters. Prefers partial shade. Valuable
in landscape work especially for its peculiar
color.

ROSA SETIGERA — Prairie Rose — Deep
rose, fading to white, almost scentless flowers
about two inches in diameter. Valuable for
hedge and landscape work. Blossoms June
and July.

ROSES

mossed buds. Flowers deep carmine shaded
with bright crimson. June.

MOUSSELINE — A fine white moss rose.
Bush hardy and vigorous. Blossoms in June.

CLIMBING ROSES

BALTIMORE BELLE — Bears small,
white, double flowers in clusters during June
and July. Vigorous grower and one of the
best white climbers.

BABY RAMBLER — Flowers crimson-red
and slightly fragrant. Dwarfed in its habits
of growth. •

CRIMSON RAMBLER— This variety is
too well known to need much description as
everyone is familiar with its large clusters of
crimson flowers. Blossoms June and July.

DOROTHY PERKINS— One of our not-
able climbers. Flowers clear cherry-pink,
slightly fragrant, borne in great profusion and
lasting for a long time. Blossoms in June
or July.

EXCELSA — Similar to the Crimson Ramb-
ler, but superior in color of flower and in its
glossy disease resistant foliage. Blossoms in
June.

PRAIRIE QUEEN — A beautiful red climb-
er, very hardy and vigorous grower. Blos-
soms in June. An old time favorite.

SEVEN SISTERS — Flowers white to crim-
son, grouped in clusters and . very attract-
ive.

TAUSENDSCHOEN— Distinctly differ-
ent from any other rose. The buds are
cherry-pink, opening to very double flowers
of softer shades that eventually fade to
white, all shades being found in a single
cluster and can well be called the rose of a
“Thousand Beauties.” Blossoms in June.

AUSTRIAN BRIERS

HARRISON YELLOW — Flowers about bloomer. Blossoms deep yellow, in June,
two inches across, semi-double. A very free

PERENNIAL PLANTS

HIS class of plants is becoming more and more popular each year as they
are so beautiful and require very little care. Each year they come up
in the spring and die back to the ground in the fall. A light covering of
straw, old hay or leaves is practically all the attention needed during
the winter. These plants are very valuable for borders around shrub
groupings. We mention height to assist in the proper arrangement of
these plants. The varieties we list are the most hardy and desirable for
general planting.

t 32 ]

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PERENNIAL PLANTS— Continued

If you are interested in other varieties of Perennials, write us as space does not
permit our listing same in this Manual.

ACHILLEA— YARROW

PTARMICA — The Pearl — One of the finest all summer. Mature height 3 ft.

of white flowering border plants. Blossoms

ALTHEA— HOLLYHOCK

ROSEA — Hollyhock — An old garden fa- double or single. White, red or maroon,

vorite, especially good for border plantings. Mature height 5-7 ft. Blossom in July.

We can furnish the following colors in either

AQUILEGIA— COLUMBINE

CAERULEA HYBRIDA — Long Spurred in shades of white, blue and rose-purple, from

Columbine — A free flowering species. Flowers May to July. Mature height 3 ft.

BOCCONIA

CORDATA — Plume Poppy — Tropical in color. Mature height 4 ft. Good among

effect with broad glaucous foliage. Flowers shrubs,

on terminal spikes in August. White in

BOLTONIA

LATISQUAMA — Flowers daisy-like, white October. Mature height 5 ft.
tinged with lavender during September and

CAMPANULA— CANTERBURY BELL

MEDIUM — Canterbury Bell — Beautiful rose and white. Blossoms from June to
garden plants of easy culture. Flowers bell- July. Mature height 3 ft.
shaped, in spreading clusters. Colors blue,

CHRYSANTHEMUM— PYRETHRUM

COCCINEUM — Pyrethrum Roseum — One
of the prettiest, hardy, perennials with daisy-
like flowers in colors of white, purple, pink

CONV ALLARIA

MAJALIS — Lily-of-the- Valley — A well
known shade loving plant. Prefers deep,
rich soil and can be grown on the north side
of buildings or under trees. Flowers white
in May. Mature height 6 inches.

COREOPSIS

GRANDIFLORA — Tick Seed— One of the
most constant flowering of all perennials.
Rich green foliage and good for groupings.
Flowers yellow, all summer. Mature height
2 ft.

DELPHINIUM— LARKSPUR

BELLADONNA, — The freest bloomer of all
varieties. Color, a clear turquoise blue.
Blossoms from June to September. Mature
height 3-4 ft.

and carmine. Foliage deep green and
feathery. Blossoms in June and July. Ma-
ture height 2 ft.

Coreopsis

I 33 1

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville , Wis.

PERENNIAL PLANTS— Continued

DIANTHUS

BARBATUS — Sweet William — Flowers Blossoms in June and July. Mature height
in large, flat clusters, in all shades of pink, ft.

red and white. Common in old gardens.

GAILLARDIA— BLANKET FLOWER

GRANDIFLORA — Daisy-like flowers in one of the best perennials for cutting. Blos-
various shades of yellow with dark brown soms all summer,
centers. Excellent for border plantings and

HEMEROCALLIS — LILY

FLAVA — Lemon Lily — Good on banks of yellow, in June and July. Mature height
streams or in clumps in front of shrubs. 3 ft.

Fragrant lily-like flowers. Flowers deep

IRIS

GERMANIGA — German Iris — General fa-
vorites and plants of the easiest culture.
Showy flowers from May to July in shades of
blue and white. Mature height ft.

Named Varieties —

Queen of May, Rose-lilac.

Purple King, Purple.

Princess Beatrice, Lavender-violet.

Rhein Nixe, White.

KAEMPFERI — Japanese Iris — Flowers
large and ranging in colors, white and shades
of blue. Beautiful everywhere, particularly
so near the water. Blossoms in June and
July. Mature height 2-3 ft.

Named Varieties —

Gold Bound, white.

Mahogany, dark red.

Purple and gold, a beauty.

DICENTRA

SPECTABILIS — Bleeding Heart— Heart-
shaped flowers in loose clusters on drooping
stems rose-color in May to July. Mature
height 2 ft.

PAEONIA— PEONY

FELIX CROUSSE— Very brilliant red.
Fragrant, strong vigorous grower, medium
height and a free bloomer. Midseason.

FESTIVA MAXIMA — Pure white, usually
flecked with crimson. Very tall, strong and
vigorous grower. Very popular for cut
flowers. Early.

German Iris

COURONNE D’OR— White with ring of
yellow stamens and crimson flecks in the
white. Very fragrant and free bloomer. Late.

RUBICUNDA — Dark pink and very beau-
tiful. Mid-season.

I 34 1

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

0

PERENNIAL PLANTS— Continued

RUBRA SUPERBA — Large, deep crim-
son and very fragrant. Very late and good
keeper. Considered one of the finest late
crimson varieties.

PHLOX

We can furnish this beautiful perennial in
mixed colors or named varieties as follows:

Bridesmaid — White with pink eye, very
beautiful.

Mrs. Chas. Dorr — Lavender.

Mrs. Jenkins — Pure white.

R. P. Struthers — Carmine.

F. G. Von Lassburg — White.

B. Comte — Purple.

Isabey — Salmon-pink.

Lothair — Crimson.

Miss Lingard — White with pink eye.

PLATYCODON— BALLOON
FLOWER

GRANDIFLORUMj — Resembles the Can-
erbury Bells. Flowers deep blue, July to
October. Alature height 2 ft. F estiva Maxima Peony

RUDBECKIA

LACINIATA — Golden Glow — Effective as produced in a great abundance. Flowers
a background for other perennials. Flowers yellow from July to September. Alature
resemble large Chrysanthemums, and are height 5-6 ft.

YUCCA

FILAMENTOSA — Adams' Needle — Foli- effective in masses with shrubbery or peren-
age sword-like, flowers bell-shaped and about nials. Blossoms cream-white in June and
2 inches across; tropical in appearance and July. Alature height 4 ft.

CLIMBING VINES

No class of plants are of wider use nor add so much to the beauty of the home planting
than the climbers and trailers. Doing well in most any good soil, and of easy culture,
makes them favorites in any landscape planting.

AMPELOPSIS ENGELMANI Engle-

man's Ivy — A type of Virginia Creeper, but
different in growth as well as foliage. This is
the only Ampelopsis that is hardy and that
will cling to brick, stone or plaster. A rapid
grower, and very desirable.

ARISTOLOCHIA SIPHO — Dutchman’s
Pipe — This tall, twining vine is much ad-

mired for its large, broad leaves and greenish-
yellow flowers which resemble a Dutch Pipe.

CELASTRUS SCANDENS — American
Bittersweet — A native twining vine, with
broad, pointed leaves of attractive color. Its
large clusters of berries in the fall make it
very attractive and ornamental. Good for
covering trelliswork, trees, rocks and walls.

CLEMATIS

Of the hardy twining vines, there are none
that excel in beauty of bloom, this charming
group of vines. They are all fairly hardy,
and bloom profusely. They should be plant-
ed in rich soil and in a sunny exposure.

HENRYII — Blooms profusely. Undoubt-
edly the best of the large-flowering white
varieties. Flowers cream-white in August.

JACKMANI — J ackman Clematis — Grace-
ful, free-flowering vine. Flowers very large

I 35 1

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CLIMBING VINES— Continued

and a velvety purple. Blossoms from July
to September.

MADAM EDWARD ANDRE— Flowers
large, crimson color from July to September.
A most persistent bloomer.

PANICULATA — Japanese Clematis — A
Japanese vine and unusually attractive. The
flowers are of medium size, pure white and
very fragrant, in September. Excellent for
trellises, arbors and porches.

LONIGERA— HONEYSUCKLE

SEMPERVIRENS — Trumpe't Honeysuckle
— A well-known useful vine, with clusters of
trumpet-shaped flowers. Free flowering and
showy. Fruit forms in bright yellow clusters.
Flowers scarlet during June to September.

HALLIANA — Honeysuckle — Strong grow-
er with deep green foliage which is almost
evergreen. Free flowering and fragrant.
Good for arbors and trellises. Blossoms
white to yellow in August and September.

BULBS AND TUBERS

This class of stock must be taken up each fall before the ground freezes and store it in
some root cellar that is protected from the frost.

DAHLIAS

Our collection is from the best varieties and
should have place in every garden.
ADELAIDE — Bright yellow.

BLACK BEAUTY — Maroon.

BLUE OBAN — Lilac shade.

EBNER — Bright red.

DOAZON — Large brick red.

ELSIE BURGESS — White mixed with
lavender.

FAIRY QUEEN — Yellow, tipped with red .
HENRYETTA — Bright red.

UECKE — Dark red.

SYLVIA — Pink and white.

GLORIA— Yellow.

Gladioli

GLADIOLI

These are not the common varieties that
most people are acquainted with, but are the
latest creations of delicate colors.

EVELYN KIRTLAND- Pink, scarlet blotch.
EMPRESS OF INDIA — Dark maroon.
CRACKERJACK — Dark red.

HALLEY— Salmon pink, early.
HOHENSTAUFEN — White flushed pink
with crimson blotch on lower petals.

MRS. KING — Scarlet.

PRIMULINUS — Yellow.

PRESIDENT TAFT — Pink with red mark-

ings.

ROUGE TORCH — White, tinted salmon
with carmine throat.

SCHWABEN — Canary yellow.

MRS. WHITNEY— Yellowish pink.
WILBRINCK — Lavender pink.

PEACE — White with carmine on lower petals.

CANNAS— BRONZE LEAVED
VARIETIES

BRONZE BEDDER — Red blossoms and
beautiful bronze foliage. Mature height 7 ft.

KING HUMBERT — Orange blossoms
flecked with yellow. Mature height ^ ft.

GREEN LEAVED VARIETIES

FLORENCE VAUGHAN — Bright yellow
blossom. Mature height 6 ft.

METEOR — Bright red blossom, very showy.
M ature height 3 ft.

I 36 }

Planters Manual

KEEP THIS BOOK FOR FUTURE USE

Follow These Directions and Save Dollars

Briefly, do this:

1. Plant all trees and bushes 3 to 6 inches deeper than
they were in the nursery.

2. Tramp the earth over the roots hard with your
heels, leaving 3 inches loose soil on top.

3. Cut of broken limbs and branches that cross, then
cut back two thirds of-the length of the remaining
branches, leaving the central limb or trunk longer
than the rest. Read directions in this booklet for
more complete instructions.

CARE BEFORE PLANTING

Avoid needless exposure to sun or wind. When you
get home throw water on the roots and “heel in” the
ground, cutting the bundles open and spreading them
out, being careful to get all air spaces filled with earth.
Small stock in paper packages should be opened up, the
roots spread out and heeled in.

WHERE TO PLANT

A Northeastern, Northern or Eastern slope is better
suited for apples and plums. Cherries do better on a
soil that is drier than is best for most fruits — they like
an elevated, sandy or gravelly loam, and a rather porous
subsoil. Do not plant fruit trees in a wet place or on
water-soaked soils. A Southern or warm exposure with
good air drainage is best for grapes. Any good, rich
garden soil (cool and moist preferred) is suitable for
small fruits.

PLANTING

Each variety is tied in a bundle by itself, one tree
in which bears the label. In planting leave this labeled
tree or shrub until the last, so you will be sure not to
get the varieties confused in setting them out.

Land should be plowed deep, harrowed well and
large holes dug. Trees ought not to be set in sod. If
necessary to do so, as in a lawn, spade up the sod 2 or 3
feet each way from the tree; keep this space hoed or
mulched.

Dynamite may be used in setting trees in heavy clay,
or hardpan soils, provided the soil is dry enough when
holes are shot so it will crumble and not pack. Hence
it is best to shoot holes in late summer or fall when
ground is dry; mark the places and set trees the next
spring.

APPLES

The distance apart at which apple trees should be
set varies according to severity of climate, also whether
only a small plot is set out or a large number of trees is
planted. South of the latitude of Wisconsin they
should be 20 to 25 feet apart each way. In the more
northern sections and on the western prairies where
the trees do not grow so large, it is beneficial to set
them closer together especially in the north and south
direction, so they will somewhat protect each other
from the hot sun. A good distance is 15 feet apart in
the row north and south, while the rows may be spaced
20 ,feet apart east and west.

PLUMS

In the southern half of Wisconsin and in similar
climate, set plums 12 or 15 feet apart each way. In
severe sections where trees grow less rapidly they may
bp set plos.er, perhaps 12 feet apart in the rows north
and south. Compass, Opata, Sapa, and Hanska may
be set 9 to 12 feet apart in the row, and let them branch
from the ground up, like a big bush.

All plum? and cherry hybrids are more certain to set
fruit every year if several varieties that blossom at the
same time are planted near each other.

The pfums blos§pming at about the same time are
grouped together.

1st: Waneta, Tokata and Loring.

2d: The old native v-.rieties: Forest Garden, Sur-
prise and Wyant.

3d: The Sand Cherry Hybrid Group: Opata,
Sapa, Compass and Hanska.

The varieties mentioned in the three groups will
overlap in time of blossoming enough to secure good
pollination; but the varieties in the first group and those
in the last would hardly pollenize because the first lot
would be through blossoming by the time the last lot
began.

When Ready to Plant, put a tub of water on a stone-
boat or a wheelbarrow and carry the trees in this to the
place where they are to be planted. Take the trees
out one at a time, avoiding all exposure of roots. Set 3
to 6 inches deeper than they stood in the nursery, de-
pending on your soil. On an elevated position, or in a
light soil plant deeper than on a low, wet or a heavy
soil. On a hillside set trees deep to prevent soil wash-
ing off the roots.

Just Before Planting, cut ragged ends of roots back
to fresh wood. Keep tap-roots full length, but trim
main side roots to a length of 6 or 8 inches. This pro-
portion is about right for a tree 5 to 6 feet high. Have
a small mound of dirt in bottom of hole to set roots
over, as this will prevent splitting roots when tamping
earth over them and leave no cavity when planting is
finished. Cut off all small fibrous roots (except on
evergreens) to allow soil to be tamped tight against the
main, larger roots. Straighten out the roots in their
natural position. Cover with fine soil deep enough to
prevent bruising, then stamp as solid as you can, using
your heels and throwing your whole weight on them, or
better, use a 2-by-4 to tamp the soil hard over the roots
same as you w^ould set a fence post. Continue the
stamping and filling to wdthin 3 inches of the top-;, put
on loose soil, leaving ground dishing slightly toward
the tree; never mound it up.

PRUNING

Prune newly set trees at once; 1st, to reduce evapo-
rating surface until root growth is established; 2d, to
start a proper frame work, or branching system. Re-
move limbs that will later cross and rub each other.
Prevent dangerous forks by cutting away the smaller
branch.

Plums should have main trunk shortened consider-
ably. If there are side branches, remove all but 4 to 6
well distributed main limbs, leaving these 4 to 6 inches
long. Avoid having several limbs start from the trunk
at about the same height from the ground. If they
branch away from the trunk 4 to 6 inches apart they
are less likely to split down when the limbs get longer.

Allow Opata, Sapa, Compass and Hanska to branch
from the ground up like a big bush. After they have
fruited a few years cut out the older limbs, allowing
newer wood to take their places, about the same as you,
would trim a currant bush. Handled in this way they
are more productive and are longer lived.

In apples shorten the main leader some. Let 4 to 6
side limbs be distributed along the trunk. Have a
short trunk; keep head low. Cut off half or three quar-
ters of the length of side limbs. Cut to an outside bud;
that is, have the top bud on a limb toward the outside
of the tree which will tend to spread the top and let in
light to develop the fruit.

Undesirable limbs on Sour . Cherry, Mountain Ash
and Birch may be entirely removed, but leave the end
or terminal buds on remaining limbs.

Trim often — once a year or so — in March or in June
- — and only enough to keep the top symmetrical and to
remove the limbs that cross and rub. When necessary
to take off large limbs, do it while the tree is dormant,
early in spring before sap starts, covering wounds with
paraffine wax or pure white lead. Don’t use paint or
axle grease.

MULCHING

Unless trees will be cultivated, mulch them as soon
as planted, 6 to 10 inches deep, 3 feet away from the
trees, using strawy manure, cornstalks, or any coarse
litter. Mulching means mice, so it is in order to fur-
nish protection.

137 1

S3:

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeeville, fVis.

CULTIVATION OF ORCHARD

It is best to cultivate. all trees the same as you would
corn for several seasons, until they are large enough to
shade the ground between them. In an orchard, small
fruits, asparagus and rhubarb may be grown in the
rows of trees, and corn, potatoes and garden crops may
be planted between the rows. When you cultivate these
crops you are giving your orchard the best kind of
care without extra work.

MANURING

Apply a moderate dressing of stable manure to your
fruit trees every winter. The exception to this is when
the land is very rich, or in the case of Compass cherry,
or the Hansen Hybrid plums, which do best on a
rather poor soil, or in case of varieties of trees which
are somewhat subject to blight, under which conditions
the fertilizer should be used only as the growth of the
trees indicates the need of it. Don’t let the manure
come up to the trees or mice may work in it and girdle
them.

Small fruits cf all kinds should be liberally manured
every year. Manure strawberry patch when plowing
but not after plants are set.

GRAPES

Plant in a sunny, airy, well drained location, 5 feet
apart, in rows 8 feet apart.

PRUNING HARDY GRAPES

Hardy grapes like Beta, Alpha, Concord and others
may be pruned in various styles, but the four arm
“Kniffin” system herein described is a simple and satis-
factory one to follow. This is put on a two-wire trellis,
the first wire two and one-half to three feet above the
ground and the second from 16 to 18 inches above the
first. This trellis is usually built at the beginning of the
second year. If the vine made a good growth the first
season all canes are removed except one and this is
tied to the wires in an upright position. It should be
cut off just above the top wire if its length exceeds
this distance.

Kniffin system used for hardy grapes, like
Beta, etc.

PRUNING TENDER GRAPES

Varieties like Campbell’s Early, Worden, Delaware
and many others require winter protection in most,
parts of Wisconsin. This compels the formation of a
vine that can be easily removed from the trellis and

covered with soil without much danger of breaking the
canes. The method illustrated in the figures fulfills
these conditions the best of any yet devised.

Summer Pruning — During the middle of the summer
vigorous vines will often put out such a heavy growth
of shoots and foliage that the clusters of grapes are
shaded too much to ripen well. To correct this it is
customary to cut away enough of the vine upon each
side of the trellis to admit plenty of light to the fruit.
Sometimes with strong growing vines it is necessary to
repeat this process. A sharp sickle or corn knife makes
a good tool for this work.

CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES

Set 3 or 4 inches deeper than in nursery, and cut
back one-half.

Plant 4 or 5 feet apart and cultivate; for a commercial
planting they should be given more room, 5 by 6 feet.
Every year as soon as fruit is gathered, cut out and burn
all wood 4 years old. Let 5 or 6 new shoots come each
year. To prevent worms eating the leaves every year as
soon as the fruit is set, spray thoroughly with arsenate
of lead, especially the lower branches where the worms
always start.

RASPBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES

Set in good garden soil 3 or 4 feet apart in rows six
feet apart. In planting Black Raspberries, set them so
bud in center of mass of roots is covered only 1 inch
deep, using care not to break this bud. Tramp soil
firmly over the roots. If center bud is buried too deep
the plant will be smothered. Red Raspberries, such
varieties as King, Latham, Louden and St. Regis,
should be set 2 or 3 inches deeper than they were in the
nursery. Cultivate clean first year; then mulch 1 foot
each way from rows and keep open spaces between
rows cultivated. After fruiting cut out old canes and
let 6 or 8 vigorous new ones grow, pinching off when
24 inches high, to induce the growth of side branches.

STRAWBERRIES

Caution — Never set strawberry plants on new land
or sod land until at least one crop has been grown. Set
your plants where you grew a cultivated crop the year
before. In order to succeed with Everbearing Straw-
berries it is absolutely necessary to plant them in rich,
mellow soil that is free from coarse straw manure.
Plant same as directed for ordinary strawberries, then
keep them well cultivated and hoed. Pick off the blos-
soms until July 10th, and if fruit only is wanted the
first year, keep most of the runners off also, and they
will bear from the last of July until ground freezes up.
The plants need plenty of moisture to mature a crop,
and in time of drouth will repay trouble of watering.
About July 1st the patch may be mulched to keep
down the 'weeds and retain the moisture. The second
year, if you want all fruit to come after June-bearing
varieties are done, disbud twice in May and in June,
when they will bear as during the first year. If not
disbudded, they will ripen a week before the June
varieties, and bear heavily during the regular straw-
berry season. Then after a rest of 6 or 8 weeks, usually
bear a few weeks in the fall.

Strawberries, when received, should be opened at once.
Don’t leave the package of plants down cellar for a few
days. Set them out right away. If left too long out of
the ground, the plants lose vitality. Trim off large
leaves, letting only two or three small ones remain;
shorten roots to about 3 inches, and dip in thin mud.
If weather is favorable, plant at once, 18 to 24 inches
apart, in rows 3 feet apart, in clean, well drained rich
ground that was into a hoed crop the previous season.
Best results are obtained by setting perfect flowering
varieties like Dunlap and Dr. Burrill. Keep all the
blossom buds picked off first year from common or
June-bearing varieties.

In planting, spread the roots out well in the hole
and pack earth firmly over them. Don’t set too deep or
too shallow. The “crown” or buds must not be covered,
nor the roots left exposed. Cultivate immediately,
and at intervals of a week throughout the season until
September 1. Let plants form a matted row 12 or 18
inches wide, depending on the variety, then cut off
ends of all surplus runners, to allow stronger crowns to
develop.

I 38 }

Hardy Northern Grown Trees, Plants, Shrubs

In case the weather is very dry and hot when you
receive your plants, it is best, after they have been
trimmed and mudded as above to heel them in — that is,
temporarily plant them out, half an inch or so apart,
getting a little soil between the plants. Here they
may be shaded and watered. Watch for a favorable
time and set them in the garden just before or after a
rain. A large number of plants may be taken care of
in this way with but little work, and it will make certain
your success.

After the ground freezes 2 or 3 inches in the fall,
cover all plants, everbearing and common, 2 or 3 inches
deep with marsh hay, corn stalks or clean straw. In
spring, rake surplus covering off and leave it between
the rows for a mulch. Let some remain on row to keep
fruit out of dirt.

The most satisfactory way to grow June-bearing
strawberries is to set a new patch every spring in ground
that was into a cultivated crop the previous season so
there are no grass roots established, nor cutworms
present. Pick one crop of berries, then plow up the
patch. In this way, clover and grass will not bother.

ASPARAGUS AND RHUBARB

Plant Rhubarb 3 feet apart in light, rich soil, with
the buds 1 inch below level of the ground.

Set Asparagus in rich soil a foot apart in a furrow
6 inches deep. Cover 3 inches and tramp. In hoeing,
work soil gradually toward plants so that by July the
ground is level. Do not cover 6 inches deep at first or
plants will be smothered. Cut savingly the second
year; after that cut all shoots 6 or i inches high until
June 15th, then let the tops grow.

Fertilize Rhubarb liberally with stable manure every
year; also Asparagus when through cutting in June.

PERENNIALS

Choose a sunny location; the soil should be spaded
deep, 12 to 16 inches, pulverized and enriched with
well rotted manure before the plants are set out.

In planting, do not allow any fertilizer to come in
contact with the roots, using only good soil next to
them.

Plant most perennials a trifle deeper than they were
before, an inch or so, so that they may be at the same
depth as in the nursery after the earth settles.

Plant Peonies and Bleeding Heart so that buds are
about 3 inches below top of soil. Phlox about 2 inches
below.

In the growing and blooming season stir the surface
soil occasionally to keep it loose, especially after every
rain, so a crust will not form. To prolong the blooming
season, pick off the flowers as soon as they wither.
After the fall frosts kill the tops, put manure among
the plants, taking care not to cover the crowns , as there
is danger of their rotting. After the ground freezes
2 inches, cover the plants completely with about 6
inches of leaves or straw, except Hollyhocks or other
heavy-leaved plants, which should be covered with
light boughs and then straw, so the covering will not
smother them out. About the middle or last of April
rake off the straw and work the manure into the sojl
around the plants.

Plant Gladioli May 15th to June 15th, 4 to 6 inches
deep and 5 to 6 inches apart, in rich soil, in a sunny
place. In fall after first hard frost dig bulbs up, dry
them and store in cool cellar where it will not freeze.

Plant Dahlias 3 or 4 inches deep in well drained, rich
soil which has been deeply spaded. After the first
hard frost in fall dig and dry one day and store in cool
cellar where it cannot freeze. If the cellar is dry and
very warm, cover tubers with dry earth or sand to
prevent shriveling.

ROSES

Roses want a rich clay loam. Set budded roses
4 to 5 inches deeper than in nursery, so the branches are
at least 2 or 3 inches below top soil. The best fertilizer
is that from cow stables. In fall level the beds so water
will not stand and scatter several inches of dry leaves
or straw on ground, bend bushes over and cover 6 to
12 inches deep with the same material, using boards or
building paper to hold it in place and keep the water
off. It is necessary to keep tops of roses dry during
winter, or they will mold. It is not necessary to cover
Moss Roses nor the Hybrid Rugosas such as Conrad
Meyer, Hansa, and others. These as well as the single
flowered Rugosa should be severely pruned back each
spring to secure the best foliage effects and the strongest
blossoms. Hybrid Perpetuals and Tea roses should be
covered for winter as they are not as hardy as the
Rugosa varieties.

EVERGREENS

In handling Evergreens, always keep the roots moist-,
don't expose the roots to sun or wind. Five minutes
exposure will kill them.

If you cannot plant them as soon as received, open
the bundle, mud the roots well and heel in, in some
shady spot.

Dig large holes, spread roots out well, set 2 to 4 inches
deeper than they stood before, and make earth firm
around the roots by stamping with your heels, or better,
pack the soil over roots with a post tamper, making
the tree so solid that it cannot be p-ulled up without
breaking the roots.

In setting Evergreens having a ball of earth burlapped'
on the roots, be sure the hole is sufficiently large and
deep to set the trees, in the case of one 5 to 6 feet high,
6 or 8 inches deeper than it stood in the nursery. Put
the tree into the hole and cut the burlap from the sides
and top — the bottom need not be disturbed if the earth
shows a tendency to crumble. Remove any packing
material outside the ball of earth, straighten out such
roots as project and get earth around them, tamping
it firm as directed above. Avoid breaking the ball of
earth.

Keep the surface soil well loosened up as directed in a
former paragraph.

Cultivate Hedges and Windbreaks same as coin for
4 or 5 years or more, then mulch heavily. Thus' cared

i 39 }

North Star Nursery Co., Pardeezille, JVis.

for they will grow 2 or 3 feet in a season after getting
well established. If they cannot be cultivated, mulch
heavily soon as planted, 3 or 4 feet each way from the
tree.

SHRUBS

Plant 2 to 4 inches deeper than they were in, the
nursery, following directions under head of Planting.

Cut off }/$ to Yi of the tops and mulch well. Very
little pruning is needed after the first year. If the
bushes get too tall, cut out the stalks near the base,
early in spring. If only shortening of the branches is
wanted, they should be cut at irregular heights so as
not to spoil the natural shape of the bush. Hydrangeas
should be severely pruned every spring before the leaf
buds start. Shrubs that bloom in May and June should
not be trimmed until through flowering for the season.

HEDGES

If soil is poor, well-rotted manure may be spaded
into it where the hedge is to go. Similar fertilizer may
also be mixed with the soil to get more rapid growth
than otherwise. Set the plants 2 to 4 inches deeper
than they stood in the nursery, putting only good
loam (no manure) in immediate contact with the roots.
Stamp or ram the soil firmly over the roots.

Pruning Hedges — After planting as per general
directions, the bushes should be cut off to within 6 or
8 inches of the ground, depending on their size. This is
important, as the sap goes to the highest point and if
all the top is left on, the base of your hedge will be
stalky and spindly. This first heavy pruning tends to
spread the new growth out and gives a good founda-
tion. When about 3 inches new growth has formed,
clip the tops to induce further branching and thicken-
ing, continuing this treatment until the hedge attains
the desired height. Frequent shearing is what makes a
good hedge.

CARE AFTER PLANTING

The best results will be secured by keeping the grass
away from shrubs and newly planted trees. In shrub
groups do not allow the grass to grow among the bushes,
but Jeep the surface loosened with’hoe or hook, work-
ing the soil as soon as dry enough to crumble, after
each rain, or each watering in case that is done.

If the soil cannot be kept loosened as recommended,
the next best thing is to mulch. Unless trees will be
cultivated, mulch them as soon as planted, 4 to 6 inches
deep, 3 feet each way . from the trees, using straw
manure, cornstalks or any coarse litter. Protect
bodies of trees having long exposed trunks from the
ground to above the large limbs by wrapping with
any cheap material, such as burlap.

WATERING

If the soil is fairly moist when trees are planted (so
that it will nearly hold its shape when a handful is
pressed together), it is best to plant without use of
water, as water makes the ground so soft the trees
are easily loosened and the air gets at the roots.

When ground is very dry it is all right to fill the
holes with water before the trees are set and allow this
to soak away.

If necessary to water anything, whether trees,
bushes, plants or lawn, use plenty of water and be sure
it goes down several feet until it meets the permanent
moisture below.

Probably the best way to get water to the roots of
trees and shrubs, especially when they are located on a
slope or under larger trees is to dig holes on two or
three sides of them, 30 inches deep; put in 18 inches
coarse gravel, then insert vertically a 12-inch length
of 3-inch agricultural drain tile. At each watering fill
the tiles several times until the soil is thoroughly sat-
urated This method is particularly adapted to water-
ing groups near the edge of a terrace. Burlap may be
stuffed into the top of the tile to keep trash out and to
retain moisture.

After thoroughly saturating the soil do not water
again for 5 or 6 days. But be sure after each watering
or rain to loosen the soil on top a* soon as dry enough , so
as to prevent formation of a cr.ust and the consequent
drying out of the soil below.

The amateur’s method of watering — -sprinkling a
little on top of the soil every day in a dry spell — is
worse than nothing, as it fails to reach the roots, but
merely keeps a crust on cop resulting in the evaporat-
ion of whatever moisture the soil may contain.

SPRAYING MATERIALS

The most common and best form of arsenic used is
“arsenate of lead.” This may be secured from drug
stores and seed and garden supply houses. Thoroughly
dissolve three pounds of paste arsenate of lead or IY
pounds of dry arsenate of lead in a small amount of
water in a pail and add to fifty gallons of water or
other spraying solution.

Bordeaux mixture is prepared by dissolving four
pounds of copper-sulphate (bluestone), in a small
amount of water and diluting to twenty^five gallons;
slacking five to six pounds of good lime and adding
water to make twenty-five gallons. These solutions
should then be combined by pouring or dipping simul-
taneously from each into a third vessel or spray tank.

The commercial lime-sulphur is used almost ex-
clusively by many fruit growers. This may be ob-
tained from same sources as arsenate of lead or direct
from manufacturers. To combine the fungus spray
and the insect spray simply add the dissolved poisons
to the fungus solutions.

Kerosene in its natural, undiluted state, is fatal to
all insect and vegetable life, but properly prepared
may be used safely and with much benefit. Dissolve a
bar of Ivory soap in one gallon of hot water, then add
two gallons of kerosene and churn it vigorously until
cool. If made right it is then like cream, and will keep
indefinitely. For general use take one part of the
mixture to ten parts of water and use as a spray. Will
be found very valuable in getting rid of aphis, mealy
bugs, red spider, etc. May be used against any soft-
shelled insect.

40

SPRAY PROGRAM

The spray mixture for apples and plums best suited
for Wisconsin conditions is made by adding 5 quarts of
liquid commercial lime sulphur and \}4 lbs. of powdered
arsenate of lead to 50 gallons of water. Spraying should
always be done under high pressure. 200 lbs. or more is
fetter than a lower pressure. Cover every tree thoroughly,
and above all be sure to do the spraying at the proper time,
as a delay of a few days will greatly reduce the effectiveness
of the work.

APPLES

First Spray — When first flower buds show pink.

Pests controlled — Early stages of leaf-eating caterpillars,
curculio and scab.

Second Spray — As soon as petals drop from flowers
and before calyx cup closes.

Pests controlled — Coddling moth and those listed under
first spray.

Third Spray — Last week of June or first week of July.

Pests controlled — Scab, apple maggot (rail road worm)
and leaf-eating insects.

Fourth Spray — About July 20th.

Pests controlled — Scab, apple maggot (rail road worm)
plum curculio and leaf-eating insects.

Note — In orchards where apple maggot is very bad
another spray should be applied about August 10th.

PLUMS

First Spray — Just before blossoms open.

Pests controlled — Curculio, plum pocket blossom blight,
twig blight.

Second Spray — When plums are the size of small peas.

Pests controlled — Curculio and brown rot.

Third Spray — About July 1st.

Pests controlled — Curculio and brown rot.

Fourth Spray — When the fruit first starts to color.

Pests controlled — Curculio and brown rot.

Special for Plant Lice — If plant lice are noticed on
apples, plums or other plants in early spring, spray with
nicotine sulphate, K pint of 40 per cent, nicotine sulphate
and 2 or 3 lbs. of soap in 50 gallons of water, as soon as dis-
covered. The first lice usually appear just as the buds are
bursting. If very numerous when applying regular sprays,
nicotine sulphate may be added to regular mixtures. It is
more effective when used alone.

CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES

Spray — Just before buds open. Lime sulphur one part
to nine parts of water. This is a strong solution which is
used to destroy the eggs of plant lice and must not be used
after the leaves are out.

Pests controlled — Plant lice.

There are four distinct types of troubles to combat;
ie: chewing insects, sucking insects, scale insects and
fungus diseases. Chewing insects are controlled with
a stomach poison, some form of arsenic (lead arsenate),
sucking insects (lice or aphids); by body contact
poison, (nicotine) or miscible oil (kerosene emulsion);
and fungus diseases by lime-sulphur solution or Bor-
deaux mixture. Be sure you know what you are spray-
ing for; since arsenate of lead will not control lice or
aphids, nor will nicotine or kerosene emulsion control
apple worms and neither of these will have any effect
on apple scab or other fungus diseases. _ Lime-sulphur
is used as a dormant spray for scale insects, and also
for fungus. In spraying the apple, keep in mind the
two main apple troubles in the Central West, coddling
moth and apple scab, and in controlling these most
other troubles are incidentally controlled. Lead-
arsenate and lime-sulphur or Bordeaux mixture are
the sprays to use.

'Uhe Craftsman ‘Press
Pardeeville, IVisconsin

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