May 1st : We arrived in Havana about 6:30 P.M., after a very uneventful trip from Key West, the sea being as smooth as the proverbial mill-pond. I was somewhat surprised to see bunches of fifteen to twenty sooty terns at various intervals from the time we left Key West until we arrived in Havana Harbor. At one time, not far from the Cuban coast, I saw one of these small flocks going through the same maneuvers which I have seen Caspian terns pass through in the Mississippi valley, that is - ?eave the, surface of the water, and by a series of spiral flights mount high up in the air, and then beat off in a steady flight in a" definite direction. Is it possible that they do this to gain direction? A Mr. Abbot, solicitor for the Plaza Hotel, met. us at the pier and helped us through t he Customs with our hand baggage. The rest he said we were to leave until tomorrow, when Dr. Della* Torre would help u s in the matter. We drove up to the hotel and ^regis- tered -lot room ?5o. This hotel is rather interesting — built according to the Spanish architecture, high ceil- ings and huge windows in every room, opening out into the street or air spaces. Floors all tiled and walls whitewashed, strictly sanitary in every respect. Shortly after reaching my quarters. Dr. De.' la- Torre arrived with his secretary, bringing me a U.S.N.M. letter bearing a shipping notice. We talked over plans for the morrow and he left me about 8:30, by which time I was hungry as a bear , so I hunted up the bunch and we went to dinner - that is, Creenlow and I, Simpson, not feeling well, having turned in. After dinner there was a hall in the dining room - ’’Tango Tea” would be a better name j or it, or .jansant would be still better — a demonstrating couple leading in a numberof very fine dances - very charming, graceful, beautiful, and free from the usual objectionable ieatures so frequently seen, a pure sweet graceful combination of rhythmic motion and music. I watched until 10:30, 'then wrote letters to Signa, Mother, Anna, Dr. Mayer, and Miss Kal lenbacb, asking the latter when I might call. I should have added a word of general impression upon reaching these shores. The little of the Cuban coast seen indicates a raised beach shoreline of what appears to be eroded limestone, above which comes several raised beaches, the whole forming what might be called the coastal plain, behind which rises mountains in the interior. The beach rockis of a yellowish tint, and there exists a beautiful harmony between the buildings along the shear e and the ground tint. The old weather-beaten walls of Morro Castle look like the weathered beaches themselves, and were it not for the red tiled roofs of some of the houses, one might believe that they had been carved out of the solid stone of the region. The Harbor has a somewhat flask-like appearance, the neck of the flask corresponding to the entrance* Havana, as seen from the steamer on entering recalls strongly such places as Algiers, all the houses being covered with a coat of mortar — almost all a shade of light yellow like the native rocks, although some are red and others blue or bluish, the whole giving one a most restful feeling, so different from our* towns in the United States where little harmony exists in the architecture or color scheme, --imong these buildings one sees plats of green turf and atately royal palms and cocoanuts rearing their towering crowns above the abodes of man, I think I shall like Havana. Prom the veranda of the Hotel - the Plaza - there stretch before me a veritable blaze) of electric illumination. 2nd: Strange as it may seen. Dr, Del le Torre was at the Hotel before I had my breakfast. We set out at about 8:30 for the Customs House; from there to the Department of Customs; from there to the Department of State, where the head of each department received Dr. Del le Torre most friendlily. I find that every one appears to love this man, and that all things within reason seem possible when he takes hold of them. I also learned that the Smithsonian letter- head makes qmite an impression upon the local gov- ernment. In spite of everything that we did, we were unable to reach the Customs House in time to release our effects, the day being Saturday, when all the offices close at 11:30, AM., so it is all off until next Monday. I did, however, get ray trunks released, and they have been sent to the Hotel, and I was soaked $1.50 for transportation. We returned to the Hotel for luncheon, walking from the pier, and testing my sense of direction in the tortuous-streeted city. I find it is still good. -3- After luncheon we made a few nore futile efforts to get our launch released, and after being fairly tired out we gave up, going over to the quarantine camp v/here they have isolated the plague suspects from the plague zone, and where they test then for temperature for seven days, that being the incu- bating period for Bubonic Plague. crossed over with Dr. J.A.L. del Valle, who is in charge of this compound, and who holds that the situation is completely under control. I had a clipping here from today* s paper. La Lucha, on the situation. Also one from the sane paper, calling attention to our expedition. The latter is quite characteristic and needs no comment. I should have stated before that (rill hunted me up the first thing in the morning. He is in fine shape but the poor fellow was hurried off so suddenly that he was completely strapped. Here again I had a typical experience. I called up last night to find in what room he was quartered and was directed to No. 7 ; then, finding this empty, to 434. This being locked, I put a memorandum under the door, which was delivered to him at the desk this morning. He tells me his room is 270. -4- This also brings to mind that after I gave Del le Torre both my Florida declaration and that covering the shipment from Washington, he failed to hand the latter to the head of the State De- partment, the result being that he will have to go through all the red tape again on Monday morning. Poor fellow! He cannot get over carry- ing every letter that he has recently received from any member of the party or local official in his pocket, or, very often, in his hands. It is a wonder to me he did not lay some of them down somewhere s and lose them, but he seems to have a tight grip on them. At 3 P.M. Torre and I left for the University. This occupies the buildings and grounds of the old Fort, beautifully situated behind the city on an eminence commanding a view of the entire town and the panorama behind, - a most charming picture, which causes one to feel at once a love for the place, leaving a peaceful feeling, that restful quiet, characteristic of the countries inhabited by the people of Manana. The royal palms in the botanical gardens below the University terrace formed a dense copse, a most delightful picture. There is a tablet on the wall of one of the entrances, stating that Leonard Wood had dedicated this Fort to Learn- ing. These are not the words, but the senti- ment oftlhe situation! I wish humanity the world over might learn a lesson from this and bestow more funds upon the acquisition of knowledge and a little less upon armament. Dr. Dela Torre’s nephew, Dr. Heurta, a gradu- ate of Columbia University, was to give a lecture at 4 P.M. before the Confer encia on the geology of Cuba, so I accepted an invitation to it. The lecture ^as of a peculiar type, sufficiently interesting to merit a little note here. , He began by projecting a slide upon the screen, of Mt. Orizaba, stating that we ordinarily held to . the view n as everlasting as the mountains”, but that this was an error, that mountains were as changeable as the clouds - accompanied by a slide of a coast view with cloud effect - only that the change was slower. Then followed a slide of the Cuban map, in which he outlined the coastal deposit, etc., of calcium carbonate and the mounts! ns of travertine or serpentine (?) . This was followed by a dis- cussion' of the geology of the immediate region about Havana - the four raised beaches or terraces of organic deposits, and a description of the - 5 - characteristics and composition of each, accompanied by lantern slides. After the lantern slides, students made test-tube chemical experiments, demonstrating the chemical nature of these deposits, the Professor in the meantime explaining the students' efforts. This was followed by a short historical sketch of the deposits and a rap at Dr. Vaughan about the Jurassic, the presence of which was- dwelt upon at some length and demonstrated by a display of two large enticular nodules at least a foot in diameter, having quite a number of small ammonites embodied in them. The lecture was followed by a summary of the year f s work by the presiding officer, who is Professor of History, and who delivered himself of a very creditable lecture. Heuita was both too dif- fuse and too general in his remarks, he at tern it ed the impossible in the short space of an hour and a half. Any short phase of his discourse might well have con- sumed that amount of time. I had a seat next to the Chairman on the plat- form. The arrangements of the hall fittings being rather interesting, were something like this# the speaker walking back and forth, as indicated by the sinuous line. After the lecture we walked down the road from the University to the Botanical Gardens, where all Havana was assembled to see the Horce, Cattle, Dog, Pig, etc., Show - a regular country fair. I have never seen a more picturesque crowd or more beautiful women - really beautiful - in any place than here. They vied with the beautiful flowers - yea, eclipsed them completely. - 6 - Dr. De la Torre next drove me back to town through the fashionplate section of the city, along Malacan Drive, which recalls the Malacan of Manila and the Plaza, and agreed to call for me tomorrow. He must be dreadfully tired, for we have been spinning about all day like a top. The rest not being at hand, I took dinner alone. After dinner I called at the house Mr* von Bayer gave me as Miss Kallenbach's address, and found that she had left a few days before for New York, probably not to return, bo I returned and joined the bunch to visit a theatre that was said to be the toughest thing in Havana. I have often heard of it, and I confess the statement was per- fectly true. Rotten in the highest degree, putrid and filthy, never again! Once in a life- time is more than enough. It was indeed a psyco- pathic study. We stayed only through one per- formance and then stopped at a cabaret and watched them dance until midnight, drinking good, yes, very good, Cuban beer. May 3rd* Had my trunks brought up and have gone through them, rearranging thinds, and have been reading all morning while waiting for De La Torre, who, though it is now 2 P.M., has not as yet arrived. Took a car ride out to the university grounds but found the gate closed. The same also was the case at the Botanical Gardens. Made a number of snapshots of the Royal palms through the fenoe, and also of the University buildings in a similar manner. I next strolled down through this out-of-the-way part of the town to the Malacan Drive and back through the Prado. My impression today is somewhat differ- ent from what I expressed yesterday. Yesterday un- doubtedly was a gala day, where all the elite element was on parade at the show. Today's dictum would be - fat women and cadaverous looking men. Watched the moving pictures on the Prado and the moving crowd for a while, then turned in. De la Torre had evi- dently taken Sunday off. -7- May 4th j- De la Torre called at the Hotel about 10 A.M. and we started on another mad run of visits from Cabinet officer to Cabinet officer, only to find that the Cabinet was in session and would be so until 3 P.M., so we adjourned until then* At 0*30 we again set out said by 4*30 had all the nec- essary papers to admit all our things duty free. We next hunted up De la Torre's nephew, who is a Customs house broker, and who will have our things released. It seems as if my Hew York shipment had not arrived as yet. Young De la Torre told me that the New York Express companies are in the habit of holding express shipments up until they have a large consignment to save cost of billing. If this should be the case it would be simply awful. It will also be necessary to get Hendersonto sign for his stuff, as I do not have his power-of-attorney for him. Thank Goodness, he will be here Tuesday. Drove out to the son of Dr. Poey, the famous naturalist, for whom De la Torre today secured a pension of $600 for one year. The poor chap is 82 years old, and quite feeble. Dela Torre is certainly a jewell* good-hearted to a fault. We next drove about the Malacan Drive and the frado, returning to the Hotel at dusk. Spent the rest of the night in my room reading. Simpson and Gill went out collecting near the bathing beach to- day. They found some Cerion Chondropomae, Oleacinas several species of Helicina, Folygyra, Subulina, Cylindrella, and a lot of praticolella. The latter were introduced on the Island about (two years ago. De la Torre called here about 11 »30. Said he had been in session with the Director of Education, to arrange "all things" He brought me a letter from Signa and one from the Southern Express Com- pany of Key West, saying they could not ship the stuff I asked them to forward until I sent them a detailed statement of the contents of the package. Went to the local express company and found the head out to luncheon. Will call again at 2 P.M., when he is sure to return. The clipping following appeared in this morning?* paper. I think De la Torre wants to make a big thing out of this, to impress the people at large with the enormous status of the work the University is doing. Inci- dentally he is working on a list of the animals of Cuba, and is much in need of well identified material He wishes this expedition to make as complete a col- lection of fish as possible, and to keep a numbered - 8 - set here for reference* the other set to go to the T7. S » Nat. Museum for naming and classifica- tion. I am very willing to do all I can to help him, for this is also what we are after. Returned to the Express Company at 2 P.M. and cabled the express agent ofKey West to send all the things consigned to Havana. We next went on a still hunt to the Customs House and found that my ship- ment had arrived and that I will „e able to get it manana. Hendersonand Clapp arrived at 6 s 15 on the steamer "Mascotte" and we got their baggage off on the letter of exemption without opening anything. All took supper at the Plaza and had a general good time. Turned in rather late. May 6th*- Up early and off on the usual hunt from A to Z, finally succeeding in realizing all our baggage just as the Custom house was closing, so off it went to the Thomas Barara, our schooner to be. We had rented a launch earlier in the day and paid a visit to this schooner, which is 65 feet long and has 20 ft. beam. Then we ordered 290 gallons of gasolene at 34 cents each, for the two launches and made other purchases of We were allused up when night came and thoroughly disgusted with the "manana" spirit of everybody in town and the many stumbling blocks placed in our way. Tomorrow we hope to get the Key West baggage, idiich we find has come over on the Miami. ' May 7th* Met De la Torre at 8*30 at the Hotel and all hands proceeded to have a picture taken of the vessel and its staff, etc., which took up almost all the fore- noon. We did, however, succeed in realizing the ex- press baggage about 1 P.M., after no end of about, the express agent having positively assured me that we could under no circumstances hope to get it before ten days. We purchased quite a lot of material, and all things sire to be at the wharf by 9 manana. I wonder if they will. We all feel that if we do not get away soon we will all be played out. During dinner we had a call from some photographer who wanted to take some flashlights of the Commission, so at 9 P.M. he had his wish fulfilled, and tomorrow's issue of El Mundo is to present the group to the public* Good luck! We took a stroll about town, admiring the beautiful points of the city in the glorious moonlight. 9- May 8th:- Here we are. Don’t think we look quite as bum as represented, but then - ? So herd is the cat! I have thought so all along* I hope he will use it and that it won’t all be used as chevos* Made all the remaining purchases and finally got the last thing aboard about 2 P.M. When De la Torre gives the Captain his papers, the boat may sail* He left, that is, Henderson, Clapp, Simpson and myself, by rail for Pinar del Rio* Passed through a lot of interesting country, all flat and suitable for cultivation, covered in many places by Royal palms which in places formed a dense copse. In eueh locations they are ex- ceedingly beautiful, their straight white trunks forming a rather open wood, while their spreading tops formed a dense mass of green. The Royal palms suddenly gave way to which, in a way, strongly recall the palmetto of Florida, and these in turn were replaced by the barrel palm, a curious tree which has a tremend- ous swelling at or near the middle of the trunk - sometimes two as big as a barrel* Noticed many dead animals in the fields and busy buzzards about them. It looks as if there may have been an epidemic of rinderpest at work here* If so, the buzzards will certainly help the spreading* Most of the cattle seem scrawny and cadaverous - not at all healthy. About 4:30 the Organ Mountains - "De los Organes" - hove in sight and promised to be interesting* We hope to be in them manana* They were visited by a shower this afternoon, which promises to give good collecting* We arrived at Pinar del Rio at 7:10, and took quarters at the Hotel Ricardo, where we enjoyed an exceedingly excellent dinner. Havana added one more plague case today. May 9th:- Slept like a log, although the others com- plained of mosquitoes. Up at 6:30, and after enjoying a cool shower, started for breakfast. We experienced considerable trouble in getting breakfast, as most people confine their attention to a cup of coffee and a lump of bread, but we finally got our fill, piled into the auto, and set out for Vinales. - 10 - Pinar del Rio is a very pretty little town and the view of it from the Hotel veranda this morning before the sun got out of the clouds and dispelled the slight fog ms indeed very pretty. We soon left it behind, pissing through a flat plain, quite like the country traversed by the train yesterday, but slightly more rolling* At Kilometer 14 from Pinar del Rio we stopped at a so-called mogote. These mogotes are limestone remnants of a mountain chain which once constituted a range this side of the Sierra Vinales. They are very interesting faunally because here occur the stranded remnants of the mountain fauna. The sep- aration has been of sufficient length to have caused a differentiation to take place in certain of the shells found here. Some shells are said to be gen- erally distributed, but others, like certain of the TJrocbptids, have certai representatives on each mo- gote. This mogote is called Mogote de las Puntas; also del Desconso. Henderson tells me that we have many new things from here, and I shall have a list for future entry. The scenery as one approaches Vinales is most beautiful, tall mountains with rounded tops rising abruptly from the plain. No taylus slopes, but sheer steep sides covered everywhehr, excepting a bald spot here and there, with luxiurious vegeta- tion; slender palms of a number of species, and many other trees render this escarpment a more than pleas- ant sight. In a plain bounded by these ranges and hills nestles the town of Vinales, a peaceful village of about a thousand inhabitants* We lunched at t+\ about 11 A.M.and then left by carriage for the Sierra del Vinales. The road passed through a gap in the mountains, the base of which is about 500 feet wide. The mountains rise sheer on both sides; the gap tuns noith and south. The mountain ridge on the east rises from 800 to 1,000 feet above the plain. The - 11 - southern fs.ce is badly eroded* Stalagmites and eroded points are pending from an overarching ledge * lending the face a fantastic and weird appearand©# We hunted in the gap* which is called Puerto del Ancon* and found among the roots of grass among the boulders two species of Urocoptids - U. Vinalensis and U. Irrorata and Pro- pinqua# Also Entrochatella elongata and microceramus- lata. Probably not this* but new* We next went through the gap and hunted along the foot of the mountains on the south side* following this around into the gap# Here we climbed up some distance but found practically nothing that we did not find at the base# W© followed the south wall of the gap to a place beside the point rounded in the gap* The sum total of our catch may be summed up as follows : Chondropoma vinalensis ” egregium " shuttleworthi Urocoptis irrorata " vinalensis " propinqua Liob&sis ( species? ) Pleurodante guan Alcadia sagraiana " dissimilaris ” velutina Entrochatella regina Relic ina adspersa " rotundata Cepolis parraiana " bonplandi arctistreata Liguus fasciata Rectoleacina cubensis Oleacina straminia " incisa - 12 - Thysanaphara stigmatica Ptenopoma booth! " bi labia turn Ammlaria blaineana Proserpina globulosa " depressa Pichardella (species?) The most interesting of all is, of course, the Chondro- poma vinalensis, of which we only found a few bones* The most abundant were Alcadia sagrainana and Entrochatella regina, of which we got a large number. On our way back we stopped at the first mogote between the Peurta and Vinales on the east side of the road* Here we also took quite a lot of shells and quite a lot of liguus. Simpson went to the next mogote south of this one, also on the east side of the road, and picked up a few things. <®e heard, on returning to our rig, that De la Torre had passed us on the road, intendint to meet us. I was dead tired and turned in shortly after dark. Have been feeling quite a bit feverish all day. It may be due to too much exercise in the hot sun. I should have mentioned that on quite a number of pillars of our Hotel, swallows, not unlike our eave swallow, make their nests - a mud wall flat on the pillar. Took a picture of one of the nests. May 10th: De la Torre appeared before I was up. We decided to take the bus to Banas de San Vicente. The bus came shortly after 9 and we piled in all our luggage. The fish expert and De la Torre’s assistant, arrived on last night's stage and now joined us. The passage through the gap - both gaps, in fact, was most beautiful. Took a number of pictures in our passage. We left all our luggage with Piar( Josei a prosperous farmer at the Bath. After pay- ing our respects to the family we set out for the cliffs nearby. We passed a cave, then worked up a gorge beyond it. Here we saw a pair of huge woodpeckers, suggesting our ivory-bill. We returned to the cave - that is, Henderson and I, about noon, and found that Clapp had found five living specimens of Chondropoma vinalensis. This is said to be more than have ever been found before. Took a swim in the cave and then returned to the house for luncheon. After luncheon we returned to the place where Clapp had made the find, and hunted over the whole region between the cave and the road, finding two more -13- living C. vinalensis. These shells seem to prefer the dark niches and there hang suspended by a slender thread varying from four to eight inches in length. Henderson found one and I, the other. We also crossed a small stream and made an exhaustive search along the cliffs bordering it, but found only a few bones. The catch listed on pages 12 - 13 was duplicated here, two additional species of TJrocoptids being added, which may be new. No Microceramus ms found. At the house Rodrigues ms catching day-flying moth which were attracted to a Mimosa tree that ms in full bloom. De la Torre told me that this ms a rare lepidoptera, and that some of the specimens would go to the Museum. A bath in the sulphur bath took out all the sore- ness from my body and left me in fit condition for the trip to Esperanza. The stage came by about 5:30 and we were soon on our my, passing through some of the most glorious scenery I have ever seen. The entire ridge of the Costanera de san Yicente is simply one picture after another, which, in the light of the setting sun, . ms little short of marvelous . We reached Esperanza at dark and thanks to the delay caused by De la Torre, who seems to think that the most important part of the expedition is to see that we are supplied with ice, we finally, as at San Vicente, went off and left him. May 11th:- Up early and off for the reef. These near this place consisted of mangrove-covered Keys with loose mud and calcarius algal fragments mixed with the tests and parts thereof of all sorts of animals. We made two hauls in about 5 to 8 feet of mter, and the stuff we brought up looks quite promising for mollusks • Examined quite a stretch of shallow mter and gathered all we could of marine invertebrate for the collection. r Among those collected were four actiniods of a goodly size and beautiful coloration. These specimens vary very much in c oloration. One has the stalk mshed with purple lake; the disc and basal half of the tentacles tarre verte (pi. 2 2/4), the lips bright purple lake, which pales and grades into green in the middle. Ancftier specimen has the stalk flesh colored, shading to silver gray at the edge. The tentacles are pale olive green at base, tipped with Hookers green (PI. 1 2/2). Another has a base like the above but the disc and tentacles are Hookers green, with a bright carmine tip at the extreme point. In still another, the carmine tip is missing. A small species has a flesh colored base with the center of the disc flesh-colored. The ten- -14- tacles are sepia brown, with narrow cross lines of pale green. I have put these in jars and am mag- nesium sulphiting them, hoping to get them distended today. At the end of the Journal I will give a list of the tags used. Have a beastly cold. % nose is streaming like a river and I am barking worse than the dogs, and that is saying a good bit. We had a visit from Captain , in charge of the Coast Guard steamer Pinar del Rio. Tem- perature at 7:30 P.M. was 75. May 12th:- Simpson, Clapp, Rodrigues, the Patron, and Sidney went ashore for Cerions. I stayed aboard to help Gill with the painting, and to take care of the rest of the specimens gathered yesterday. De la Torre and the noisy fish expert went ashore for ice and chicken and the boat has a Sunday atmosphere. Temperature 6 A.M., Air: 75 ; water, 32. Discovered newspapers aboard, brought by De la Torre, and make the clippings from them, which follow below: V I made a lot of color notes on the simpler invertebrates, many of which are noted in the back of this journal, in connection with this station. The land party found nothing at all, but they made several hauls in shallow water (8 to 12 feet -2 , n fathoms - ) of cayo arenas. These hauls yielded v, quite a lot of invertebrates, which I preserved. y They are listed under tags #19 - 23 and 25. In the evening the Captain of the *ort of Havana arrived in his yacht, but we gave him so little attention that he steamed back to Havana, thank goodness! There is altogether too much time lost entertaining and palavering* which seems to be De la Torre* s chief aim. At 3 P.M. we left our anchorage and made sail for Santa Lucia. We came to anchor after dark, and after a very light supper gave the submarine light a trial. We caught a lot of plankton with a butterfly net (Knowles having forgotten to pack my plankton net - Hang him. ) . We also caught a number of Hemieamphs and other small fish. We turned in about 10 P.M., with the determination to get up at daylight and search the reefs. May 1st: We had breakfast and were off by 6 A.M. Paid a call to Cayo Hutea at the light house in the hope that vie would find a reef at this place. There is a small Key a little east of this one off the lighthouse. The water between the two I suppose in no place is over two fathoms. The bottom is largely composed of calcareous agal detritus plus some animal remains overgrown, for the greater 1 part, with ibhalassa testudinaria, a long leaf plant resembling tallisnaria* On this bottom we found a number of species of corals. and Actinious. Also some sponges and crustaceans. On the beach of the light- house were a lot of spirit crabs, some of which and a land crab, were coppered by Simpson and Clapp. We next went to the outer reef of the little island northeast of the light, and here worked in water of depth varying from 3 to 5 feet, securing a lot of corals, sponges, Plexaures Gorgonians, Crustaceans and a number of small fish. I inverted a pint bottle of copper sulphate into a hole in a coral head and secured a few fish rendered groggy in this manner. The coral was covered by four feet of water. The coral heads here are scattered, chiefly Meandrina. -16- The Patron helped us in our work and it ms amusing to see him sink dorm below the surface of the water, and, reaching the bottom, open his eyes, getting whatever he wsrs after* He is a snlendid waterman and seems to be as much at home in this element as a porpoise* Covers of wire netting used in stores to protect food - had been purchased by Henderson in Havana and we found them not only excellent for catching small fish but also in sweeping the grass, which yielded quite a lot of fine At Bhosinellas, Columhellids, Trochids, etc. Of fish we secured 18 species. Four species of corals are scattered on the graen grass flats some distance off shore. Further out they are present in patches, and these in turn still farther out become fused into extensive reef areas, consist- ing of larger heads. I secured a few of the large speci- mens which I later hung on the sea wall. I also put some of the small specimens by for his tologi zing. We returned to the schooner at 11 A.M. , with a mass of stuff which kept me busy for the greater part of the afternoon. At 4:30 we made a dredging trip about the ship. We struck a bottom rich in vegetation near shore, with many Echini. Kept 63 of those of the first haul and almost as many of the s econd. We made three hauls on such bottom in 2 l/2 to 3 fathoms, then steamed out toward I the lighthouse where we struck soft mud, (see sample, tag 67) In this we found some Angulos, a small bulla, and y a number of small Ophiurians, and other things, although the yield as a whole of the eight hauls was quite poor as far as mollusks are concerned, but rather interesting otherwise. Had to use the lantern to finish putting away things. After dinner we used the submarine light and added quite a lot of plankton and some fish to yester- day’s catch. Gill is not well tonight. I hope he will feel better tomorrow, for there is so much to be done if we are to make a showing at all. We had quite a shower yesterday afternoon which made work under a leaking canvass somewhat trying. Temper- ature at 6 A.M., Air, 78; Water, 82. Temperature at 7 P.M., Air, 78; Water, 82. May 14th: Dr. De la Torre and the vocal expert went ashore yesterday. The first returned at 6, the other at 8 P.M. It was decided that Henderson, Clapp, Simpson, and De la Torre would visit Pan de A sugar, while I am to take charge of the marine work. Accordingly, Greenlaw, the Patron, the fish expert, Rodrigues and I set out for the reef at 5:30. After going over yesterday’s field off the little island where we found picking even poorer than yesterday, we steamed out to sea and found that the reef became compact and fine about 2,000 yards off shore, and extended so as far out as we could see. We followed it -17- up for several miles but found no change in the con- dition • Here and there an area of 'white coral sand would make its appearance, extending usually at right angles to the shore line# We made a haul with the dredge in such a place and obtained nothing but a bottom sample # Returned to the schooner at 11 A.M# and worked on the catch# . Soon after luncheon we were driven below by a squall which lasted for about three hours* and ms ted much of our precious time# The mail steamer arrived from Esperanza and brought me a letter from Signa# It also contained two telegrams for De la Torre, stating that his mother-in-law had died# We dispatched Rodrigues to Pan de Asugar with them# Poor boy l He will have a wet ride, but the rain will bring out the land shells so the party should be a happy one, even if wet# Rodrigues and the expert returned about 3 P#M#, soaking wet# They delivered the telegrams to the man who runs the electric truck from Santa Lucia to the mine, who will hand them to De la Torre* he having stated to them that the party will not leave the mine until tomorrow morning# The temperature at 5:30 this morning was the same as yesterday, thatis, air, 78; water, 82# The shower this morning kept down the air temperature #to 73, but this soon changed to 78 when the rain stopped about 4:30# The shower showed a 3- inch fall in our vessel set out to catch and note the amount of rain# At 5 P#M# Greenlaw, Gill and I went out dredging# We made five hauls along the mainland shore westward from the anchorage to a little above the entrance to s anta Lucia, then two in midstream up toward the ship. The bottom along the shore - two fathoms - showed much vegetation and a very great number of small sea urchins# In one haul we had 84 of them# Our dredge was simply or amine cl full of them# The last two hauls were in 3 to 4 fathoms of soft mud. These yielded some Tellinas and two star fish of gray color, setose above, which shed their arms in a rather reckless manner # I was sorry to lose these as they would have made fine exhibition material, but as it was, I had to tank them# The specimens of these five hauls we have entered under Station f4# At 8:30 we made a trip tothe reef of Cayo Hutea# The night being cloudy and calm, we deemed it good to try the submarine light# We had considerable diffi- culty in getting tothe reef, but finally anchored safely in about 10 fathoms of water right over a splendid specimen of Porites palmats • Large fish failed to be attracted but vie secured a few small specimens and a fine lot of worms, shrimps and minute plankton# We made a stop in a shallow grass patch - 6 feet - and found nothing different, so we returned -18- to the ship, reaching it at 10:30, dead-tired and fit for bed. Temperature at 8 P.M., air, 78; water 82, as usual. At 2 A.M. I •was almost frozen. Looked at the thermometer and found the temperature 72* Put on more clothes. Gill is somewhat of a disappointment. To me he seems groggy all the time. He lacks initiative and ■would be absolutely helpless without constant super- vision. May 15th: Temperature 6 A.M., air, 78; water, 82. Bright, with scarcely a cloud over the mountains. I hope the land party will have a good day of it. Took care of what remained to be attended to from last night’s catch, then set out for the main shore in the hope of securing some exhibition material. This proved to be another grass flat bordering a mangrove swamp and contained little beyond what we had already taken. Only one huge Echinoid was found which seemed to be different from those taken yesterday. The mangrove: trees have almost all been killed by the hurricane of 1906. A rookery of cormorants were using these dead trees for nesting sites. We examined several of the nests and found that they contained two and three eggs, while some of them had half-grown young. There are also TfVhite Ibis here -^in fact, many of them, but these, as well as the Louisiana Herons and Reddish Egrets, seem to frequent' the inner edge of this Mangrove thicket, where it borders a rather extensive lake. I will have to pay this place another visit when my camera returns from the mountains, for it is now with the Pan de Asugar party. We stopped at the entrance to the lake at a landing stage and took a lot of fine Hydroyds from the palm pilings. In t he lead leading to the lake we found Mangrove oysters and Perna hanging in clustering pendants from the Mangrove roots. We secured several of them, as well as a lot of Hydroyds from similar positions. The grassy bottom of the interior lake looked like good dredging ground, so we made five hauls in 1 2 fathoms, securing a fine lot of Bulla, Laevicardums, Venerids, etc. Also some nice worms . Three of these hauls were made in the larger of the two lakes and two in the smaller adjoining one. Secured water and bottom samples in both places. The clouds promis- ing r ain drove us to the ship, where we arrived just in time for luncheon. At 2 P.M, the rain began and continued more or less interi'uptedly until 4:30. These wet afternoons are a nuisance, because they practically stop Gill s work, since his colors, instead of drying, will run, making progress very slow. -19- At 5 P.M. we steamed down the Bay and made four hauls with the dredge, which r esulted in gaining a few more Tellinas and a slender long-armed Ophinrian, a dozen Strombus, etc* The last haul was made near tiie western end of the Bay. Here we saw a huge flock of White Ibis assembled in the dead Mangrove trees - fully 500 of them. We steamed within sixty yards of them before they took wing. This flock con- sisted chiefly of adult birds* I also saw a small white Heron, which may have been a Snowy Heron, or the white phase of the little Blue Heron. It was too far from me to be positively determined without a glass. We tried a trip up the channel toward the town, but practically lost our my so made a hasty retreat to gain open water before it became dark* It is sur- prising to see how the rains are bringing a new fresh green to the mangrove bushes. One would think that having their feet constantly in the water would cause them not to respond to the shower. Probably it is the sweet water that affects them. On our way down stream a Clapper Rail flew across our bow. The sunset was glorious. Reached the schooner by dark. The expert vocalist (very properly designated) says the land party will not return before tomorrow. They are said to have gone to some other point and will go to Pan de Asugar tomorrow. Wish I had my small camera here. If * had we would take some pictures tomorrow. Here is our cook* s mixture, which makes one forget cold, etc. It beats ray cocktail. 1 l/2 glass Agua diente 1 l/2 " Hector Cubana (Chapparra M. negreira Sen. C. Habana.J l/2 " Italian Vermuth l/2 ” Dry Gordon Gin 2 " Water Sugar to taste, 2 Eggs Pinch of lemon peel Shake with ice, and, like my beverage, con- sume with a receptive mind, to say nothing about the tummy. It may be added here that a bandage for the head in the morning would not be out of place, and an ice cap comes in mighty handy. - 20 - May 16 th t Up at 2 A.M. with every tooth in my head, and left eye and ear jumping, so I took refuge in the cabin in a deck chair, put an asperin tablet in my cheek and after awhile fell asleep. About 5 A.M. I awoke and found most of the asperin gone and the cheek all puckered up and practically paralyzed for all the rest of the following forenoon. Made a trip to Santa Lucia at 8 A.M. This place consists of about a half dozen huts, the largest a sned, being the storehouse for mine products. The mine is about 10 miles from the landing, and the ore is brought down in bags and shipped to Port Amboy. They have shipped 8,000 tons, which is said to smelt 20f 0 copper. *We followed the road leading to the mine, keeping to the woods on the right, which permeated and surrounded a swampy area. Was able to list quite a number of birds, many of which had notes resembling their near relatives further north. I am now able to give the following list ob- served at Santa Lucia since our arrival. Species with which I was unfamiliar have been identified with the help of Dr. De la Torre and Gundlach' s list. Anatomical material of allspecies which I was unable to identify at sight and therefore was forced to shoot, has been preserved* Gundlach s Warbler Mockingbird ( — T&rti y * \ [ — •j. JLir s£m< o£v sit -5s V'-*— -t iilUUU Mexican C Brown Pelican Man-o* -war Bird West Indian Tree Duck. White Ibis Glossy Ibis Caribbean Great Blue Heron Egret Snowy Egret Reddish Egret Louisiana Heron Little Blue / / / / / / / / / / - / / / / / * / Cuban Green Heron i *► e^A, *yu ^ Yellow-crowned wight Heron Cuban Sandhill Crane Cuban Clapper He.il Avocet s Blac i f ill gt OH / / / * / Antillean Plover L Vexio&n Jacana Bob unite i i . Bobwhiie j_j MW Whiie-crowned Pigeon West Indian Mourning Dove Cuban Ground Dove Turkey Vulture ■kHT&brtl Gharp- oliinne^H Hawk C ub& a B Cuban Sparrow Hawk Audubon’s ^aracara Cuban Parrot Ani Cuban Lizzard Cuckoo Cuban Trovon Belted Ainsrftshe?' *o* Cuban Tody C ubaa t ■ Ivory'’ * SrH i Cuban Green Woodpecker Super c ilious Woodpecker Cuban Flicker ’O Cuba] Hioord f s lluirmiingbird G tent ^Ing bAffd Gray Kingbird O tyffl s h 1 s K -tegbiiedr JU t Cuban Pete - Im ry Crested Flycatcher bar Sagrasr F lyoatolie 3r~ W oo d-- Pe w e e - Cuban Wood Peweo -OW^hiu Ojt'crsr* Tawny- shouldered Blackbird Cuban Redwing Cuban Meadowlark Orchard . Oriole Bairbi more Bride- D^dh^igny* s Blackbird Cuban Grackle C uban Bui If inch Indigo Bunting 1 I L Painted Bunting - \ L Yellow-faced Gr&ssqtdi Melodious Grassquit Martin > Cuban cliff Swallow * Tree Swallow Red-eyed Vireo Fernandi -/ / / : - J j . 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CD CJ1 CJ1 cn cn cn ~^3 -3 SI SI sj -a O CO CO -a OD ~4 03 CO cm *£» 09 M cn 03 on 03 09 re "N. r* One of the most beautiful birdB in the entire island is the little Tody, which, excepting the Humming birds, is the smallest of the feathered Inhabitants of the idland. Its entire length from the tip of the bill to the tip of the tail a? - "*' ' . ' had almost full grown young. Her# also we noted the Anhing# or Snake birdj a pair of West Indian Tree Ducks* breeding in an old tree} some American Egrets, the Reddish Egret, the Snowy Egret* The Louis ana Heron* the Little Blue Heron* the Cuban Green Heron and a Ye llew»er owned light Heron, ell had nests in this colony. In addition to these we saw between two and three hundred White Ibis* but we did not find their nests, it is possible that the time of our visit did not coincide with their breeding period. This rookery is a rather large one* extending over a little more than a mil© of the coast and there were many thousands of bifcds in it. In the mountain regions om meets with a very curious bird, the Cuban ticzard Cuckoo, a rather large individual, almost twenty inches in length, of which the long, broad tail makes up three-fifths of its entire length, while the bill adds almost two inches at tJie other end. The Llzzard Cuckoo is a var liable clown, curious , inquiring and ext reps ly amusing, (Tell what ■ ' ' you know about Its note and give its Spanish name)* It can readily be called up by repeating its note, but it always Insists on keeping son® branches or something between you and him and also to remain In the shade near you, thus rendering photographing almost an impossibility. Having oalled Ms to you he will look at you, moving his tail side-wise, probably extending it afc right angles to the body and holding it to one side for a while or he may cock it upward like a Wren or swish it from side to side, then sneak away slyly, almost like a shadow » or ho may spread hie winga and tumble all over himself and shatter away as if be had discovered the most amusing thing possible and could not resist bubbling over with mirth. At such times, he is so comical that you cannot help joining him in Ms laughter. All in all he can be oalled one of the most interesting members of the Cuban Avifauna* The color of the bird Is a pals grayish brown with a metallic flush, about the primaries cinnamon color, the throat and the anterior part of the under surface are grayish, wash- ed with pale brown, while the posterior portion is pale reddish brown. The large, broad tail feathers, excepting the inner ones, which are the longest, are tipped with white and crossed by a broad band of black just within th© white tip. the cihio© and is found along the country road, in fact everywhere mv .js W 4 » t #* txnd, ii the Tick Bird", or 01 t; 'hi-- (I idsli bird o: sa the sic© of tho Bcct w t&i.'-cd or Purple Crackle with a attallio sitcon having t cvxiou*. crest upon the upper mandible* This bird frequently can seen percaao upon law :. ■> of the cuttle searching for grabs, or yon may ae< t’1032 or. the fence® »r la the bushes along the roadside in fiudUy groups m ten disturbed tlw % M. %t. 4 p < -n -r «**> «fc» « r<*a on© bush to another# repeating their hni $ A&1» Alii * over eaid over again* The animal to which you refer ae Branehioetoma is not that* but ie 2apptf$pafce.# a Polychaetae worn. These are wry peculiar animals belonging to an aberrant group of the order Just mentioned* I aa going to have the specimens histologised cone day and see if they are not closely related to the Lancelot. They live in the lend just 111® the Lancelot . w ) jtjo 1 sZuiA io 6-cruu a-Cc ^^e/a£ia ^At^Atv.