watt oa Me IL ENGINEER DEPARTMENT, U. 8. ARMY. Puddige (da 1 OF THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO, TO THE JUNCTION OF THE GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS OF THE GREAT COLORADO OF THE WEST, IN 1859, UNDER THE COMMAND OF 2 CAPT. Ic N. MACOMB, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS (NOW COLONEL OF ENGINEERS) ; WITH GEOLOGICAL REPORT OLOGICAL 97 BY A ot Ve p Ps ah ; OFFICE OF THE CHIEF. OF ENGINEERS, Washington, D. C., June 28, 1875. Sir: When Major Macomb, of the Topographical Engineers (now colonel of engineers), made his report of an important exploration in New Mexico, in 1859, he was unable to furnish the report on the geology of that region, owing to the fact that Dr. J. S. Newberry, the geologist who accompanied him, was then actively employed in his duties on the Sanitary Commission in the West. Colonel Macomb has recently transmitted to this Office Dr. Newberry’s report, with its twenty-two illustrations; and I have respectfully to recommend that it be printed at the Government Printing-Office, and that 1,500 copies be furnished for the use of the Engineer Department upon the usual requisition; also, that this Office be authorized to. procure the necessary copies of the illustrations. : Very respectfully, your obedient servant, A. A. Humpareys, Brig. Gen., Chief of Engineers. Hon. WiitiaAm W. Bevxnap, Secretary of War. Approved: By order of the Secretary of War: H. 'T. Crossy, Chief Clerk. JUNE 28, 1875. CONTENTS, LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. GENERAL REPORT. Report of November 1, 1860. Report of November 27, 1861. GEOLOGICAL REPORT. PREFATORY NOTE. LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. CHAPTER I. GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE BETWEEN St. LOUIS AND SANTA FS. General geological sketch—Independence to Dragoon Creek—Carboniferous strata—Character of coal and Coal Measures of Kansas—Due to what causes—Coal-plants of Kansas—Molluscous fossils—Dragoon Creek to Cottonwood Creek—Permo-Carboniferous and Permian strata—Difficulty of separating these formations—Cottonwood Creek to Walnut Creek—Gypsum formationIts parallelism—W alnut Creek to Pawnee Fork—Lower Cretaceous rocks—Sand- stones withimpressions of leaves—Pawnee Fork to Cimarron—Tertiary strata—Arkansas basin—Its relation to that of White River—Cimarron to Enchanted Spring—Jurassic? rocks—Enchanted Spring to Cottonwood Spring—Lower Cretaceous and Tertiary beds—Cottonwood Spring to Canadian—Trap buttes and mesas near Raton Mountains— Cretaceous rocks of the Canadian—Table-lands skirting the Rocky Mountains—Canadian to Las Vegas—Trap plateau at Burgwin’s Spring—Cretaceous strata at Fort Union and Las Vegas. CHAPTER I. GEOLOGY OF THE VICINITY OF SANTA FR. Santa Fé Mountains—Granite—General geological features, its character and contained minerals—Relations of the Santa Fé mountains—Placer Mountains—Cretaceous and Triassic rocks—Cretaceous lignite converted into anthra- cite by an outburst of trap—Gold of the Placer Mountains—Copper—Iron—The Cereillos—Gold—Silver—Lead— Copper—Iron—Turquoise—Ancient Chalchuit] mines—The Sandia Mountain—The Valles—Stratified rocks—Carbo- niferous formations—Santa Fé section—Section at Pecos Village—Permo-Carboniferous beds—Gypsum formation— Section at San José—Fossil plants—Cretaceous formation—Subdivisions of the system—Yellow sandstones of Cafion Blanco—Cretaceous—Sections at Gallisteo and Pope’s Well—Tertiary beds of fresh-water origin. CHAPTER U1. GENERAL VIEW OF THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY BORDERING THE UPPER COLORADO. Bird’s-eye view of the Colorado plateau and its surroundings—Mountain-chains by which the plateau is encircled— Rocky Mountain system—Its extent and general structure—Different features which it presents on different paral- lels—Differeft ranges of the Rocky Mountains, probably not of the same age—Rocky Mountain region has suffered Yi ¥E TABLE OF CONTENTS. alternations of elevation and depression—The Cretaceous epoch an era of subsidence—The Tertiary, of elevation— Mogollon Mountains—Probably not a distinct system—Mountains of the Lower Colorado a part of the Sierra Nevada system—Relation of the Sierra Nevada to the Rocky Mountains—Cerbat Mountains—Wasatch Mountains— San Francisco group—Recent voleanie phenomena of the Great Central Plateau—Mount Taylor—Sierra Tucane— Sierras Abajo, La Sal, &c.—Structure of the Colorado plateau—Devonian and Silurian rocks of the Great Caion— Carboniferous formation—Triassic and Cretaceous rocks—Similarity of structure of the valleys of the Little Colorado, San Juan, Grand, and Green Rivers—High mesas of Navajo country and Upper San Juan. CHAPTER IV. GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE FROM SANTA FS TO THE STERRA DE LA PLATA. Structure of the valley of the Rio Grande—The valley of the Chama—Abiquiu—Copper-mines—Fossil plants—Ruins of Los Cafones—Abiquin Peak—Platean country bordering the Upper Chama—Arroyo Seco—Triassic marls— Navajo Spring—Cretaceous sandstones and plateau—Banks of the Nutria—Middle Cretaceous beds—Vada del Chama—Section of valley of the Chama—Hligh mesa of Upper Cretaceous rocks—Laguna de los Cavallos—Divide between the waters of the Rio Grande and San Juan—General view of the structure of the surrounding country— Mountain-chains—Belt of foot-hills—Table-lands—Rio Navajo—Cerro del Navajo—Sierra del Navajo—Rito Blanco— The Pagosa—Sierra San Juan and associated mountain-ranges—Cretaceous rocks and fossils ~The Piedra Parada— Rio Piedra—Broken mesa—View from high divide—Rio de Los Pinos—Sierra de Los Pinos—Rio Florido—Valley of the Animas—Ruins on the Animas—Crossing of the Animas—Structure of the mountains drained by the Animas— Rio de La Plata—Delightful camp—Cretaceous rocks and fossils—Sierra de La Plata—Metalliferous veins of the Sierra de La Plata. CHAPTER V. GEOLOGY OF THE SAGE PLAIN AND VALLEY OF THE UPPER COLORADO. General features of the northern portion of the Colorado basin—Aspects and structure of the Sage plain—Mesa Verde Enormous denudation of the Colorado plateau—Crossing the Sage plain—Rio de Los Mancos—Rio Dolores—Section of Lower Cretaceous rocks—Ruins on the Dolores—Sierra San Miguel—Surouara—Tierra Blanca—Guajelotes—Canon Pintado—Triassic rocks—Saurian bones—La Senejal—Eroded buttes—Casa Colorado—Ojo Verde—Sierra La Sal— Excursion to Grand River—Cafion Colorado—Plateau bordering the Colorado River—Eroded monuments— Labyrinth Canon—Ruined buildings—Summit of the Carboniferous formation—Section of Triassic rocks—Remark- able country about the junction of Grand and Green Rivers—Singular eroded buttes and pinnacles—Net-work of canons—Cafion of Grand River—Section of Carboniferous strata—Transverse section of the Colorado Valiey— Return to Sage plain—Journey southward to the San Juan—Sierra Abajo. CHAPTER. VI. GEOLOGY OF THE BANKS OF THE SAN JUAN. General features of the country bordering the San Jnuan—Section of Lower Cretaceous strata south of Sierra Abajo— Bird’s-eye view of country bordering San Juan—High mesas of the Navajo country—Triassie rocks of Lower San Juan—Lower Cretaceous strata of Camp 37—Middle Cretaceous beds and fossils south of Le Late—The Needles— The Creston—Upper Cretaceous strata at mouth of the Animas—Ruins in the San Juan Valley—Cation Largo— Sections of Upper Cretaceous strata—Plateau country bordering Cation Largo—Buttes of marls and sandstones, highest members of the series of sedimentary rocks composing Colorado platean—General section of Upper Creta- ccous strata—Nascimiento Mountain, its structure and relations—Notes on the different formations exposed on its sides—Journey through country bordering western base of Nascimiento Mountain—Divide between San Juan and Rio Grande—Mount Taylor—Cabiezon—Tertiary strata at Jemez—The Valles—Trap plateaus. DESCRIPTIONS OF CRETACEOUS FOSSILS, BY F, B. MEEK. DESCRIPTIONS OF CARBONIFEROUS AND TRIASSIC FOSSILS, BY J. S. NEWBERRY, GEOLOGIST OF THE EXPEDITION. TABLE OF CONTENTS. VIL ILLUSTRATIONS. LANDSCAPE VIEWS. Page Plate I. Abiquiu Peak, looking westerly ...--. aaa N 2 pi aie ele ok ee eRe oe hgh AL oe saa mi ee 69 P1gGG Da NOR -V BOOMIEL Unatnn, TUNED GLOUACEONS MGEK Jca cna 5. 2205s 2 Oded oon nos een ge seo nee cnn n ce cutee ses 71 Se La 7a a ante Peat a ee OLN WY OG ima O% © oo Sl cig So en maid Gaui wan one wanes donne h Caveuvinne 78 Plate IY. The Pagosa and San Juan River, looking easterly ...-.. -- 2.6 cnn e cece coe eee cnn mee teens ween 76 Plate ‘VY. Rio Dolores and Sierra de la Plata. From near Camp 21... 22. 02.00 0-2 oc conn e cece ne cee ne wees 86 Plate VI. Casa Colorado and La Sal Mountains, looking northerly... ..---.------ -----+ +--+ 2+ seers ener eee 92 Plate VII. Head of Labyrinth Creek, looking southeasterly ...-.. ...--. .---2. 22-222 ------ SE Ss Rete ie vaio 96 Pitts yaueeemene of Oafion Colorado. Erosion of Triassic series ....., 2.2... oeae conn es ce ceae csv cen coeenerns 98 Mineo. Uuower San Juan; looking west, From near Camp 35.........- .----0 scene. scene naeeen vane wseney 102 Se we. EDO NGOUIG i arr UIP ORTON ii posit an oa Sukn boo ew ina pe ececen See nes Shpede dp edne sneae =. 106 Pree OL, The Ontrack w= 5 «earn oe Wea Goats noe ced eo hans wen eay owners 112 Trap Dike. Rommeme, SOuun OF Sania £6, Naw Mexico .25.-. 2.2200 co scbs eddie ene e acces cnn cds con pwaees 51 SO ENR ase Sn 3h 5s has aon vn nas cod new sone cus ERone buen whee Uh ebs -ye ) agansis 75 te Tene ie Pie, LI VEU OAM... ces. olcn oc an ee oeae Guo eawted sod. e DRR Sew kame vee ee 94 PALEONTOLOGY. Plates I to VII, inclusive, at end of Descriptions of Fossils, by F. B. Meek and Dr. J. 8. Newberry. LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Unirep States ENGINEER’s OFFICE, Rock Island, Iil., June 18, 1875. GeneRAL: I have this day forwarded to you the Geological Report of Dr. J. 8. Newberry, geologist of the San Juan exploration party, which went from Santa Fé, New Mexico, to the vicinity of the junction of Grand and Green Rivers, in Utah, and back to Santa Fé, in the summer of 1859, and which party was in my charge. This is the report to which I alluded in my report to you of November 1, 1860, as setting forth whatever the route above mentioned afforded of interest to the publie at large or to the man of science. I trust it way be found possible to publish it. The report is arranged in seven chapters, with a prefatory note, and is accom- panied by the following sketches and drawings, viz: Eleven water-color sketches, showing characteristic scenery of the region in Northwestern New Mexico, Southwestern Colorado, and Southeastern Utah. Also, eleven drawings (eight of fossils and three of scenery), all of which are interesting and important in connection with the report. My map of the route was engraved on a steel plate, and is on the files of the Engineer Department. I remain, very respectfully, your most obedient servant, J. N. Macomp, Colonel of Engineers, United States Army. Brig. Gen. A. A. Humpnreys, Chief of Engineers, United States Army. EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. CEH Neen ty EVP Oak RA OSG Wasuinaton, D. C., November 1, 1860. Sir: For the information of the War Department, I beg leave to submit the fol- lowing remarks upon the exploration made by me, during the summer of 1859, in New Mexico and Utah. About the middle of July, 1859, my party set out from Santa Fé, New Mexico, and pursued a northwesterly course, crossing the Rio Grande Bravo del Norte at the old Indian pueblo of San Juan, and following up the valley of the Rio Chama, pass- ing by the pueblo of Abiquiu, the outpost of settlement in that direction, being about fifty-two miles from Santa F'¢. We continued up the Chama Valley for some forty-five miles more, when we left it and crossed the dividing ridge between the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and those of the Gulf of California, at a remarkable point, where there is a small lake called Laguna de los Caballos, when we struck upon the headwaters of the San Juan River, crossing several branches before we came to the main stream. This we crossed in latitude 37° 14’ 48” north and longitude 107° 2’ 47” west, where there is a hot spring, of temperature about 140° Fahrenheit and of magnificent dimensions. We looked down through its limpid waters until the power of vision was lost in the cavernous depths whence the waters flow. From this point our route was westerly for about seventy miles, over a region very much broken and intersected by rapid mount- ain streams (branches of the San Juan), which afford an abundant supply of good water and have the appearance of being permanent. We had frequent rains, however, in this part of our route, and the grazing was thus far excellent. Up to a point about forty-five miles westward from the “Pagosa,” or great hot spring above alluded to, we were accompanied by Mr. Albert H. Pfeiffer, sub-agent for the Utah Indians, and his interpreter, Neponocino Valdez, to both of whom we are indebted for acts of hospi- tality and for facilitating our passage through the country of the Capotes and other bands of the Utah Indians, in whose vicinity our route happened to lead us. In latitude 87° 16’ and longitude 108° 4’, we passed along the southern base ot the mountain group known as “Sierra de la Plata;” hence in a northwesterly direction for about one hundred and twenty miles, over gloomy barrens, covered chiefly with. Artemesia, but affording a scanty pasturage in some of the small valleys. The August rains favored us, and we had no scarcity of water on our route to the “Ojo Verde,” in latitude 38° 14’ 50”, longitude 109° 26’ 40’, a point about three hundred and forty miles from Santa Fé.< The greater part of our journey from Abiquiu to this point was 6 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FB by the old Spanish trail, which has not heretofore been accurately laid down upon any map. ‘This trail is much talked of as having been the route of commerce between California and New Mexieo in the days of the old Spanish rule, but it seems to have been superseded by the routes to the north and south of it, which have been opened by modern enterprise. At the “Ojo Verde” the Spanish trail strikes off more northwardly, to seek a prac- ticable crossing of Grand and Green Rivers. » We left the trail here, and, leaving the main body of our party encamped at the spring, with a small party of nine, went to the westward some thirty miles, under the guidance of an Indian, who had joined us many days previously, on our route to look for the junction of the Grand and Green Rivers. This part of our journey was very rough and dangerous, from the precipitous nature of the route, winding down the sides of deep and grand cations, and it is fortu- nate that no attempt was anda to bring forward our oaks train, as we must have lost many mules by it, and, moreover Gthits was not sufficient pasture for the few animals that we had with us. 1 cannot conceive of a more worthless and impracticable region than the one we now found ourselves in. I doubt not there are repetitions ol varieties of it for hundreds of miles down the canon of the Great Colorado, for I have heard of but one crossing of that river above the vicinity of the Mojave villages, and I have reason to doubt if that one (1 Vado de los Padres) is practicable, except with ihe utmost care, even for a pack-mule. On leaving the “Ojo Verde” we traveled south for about seventy miles, passing by the castern base of the Sierra Abajo, until we struck the San Juan River, in lati- tude 87° 16 27” and longitude 109° 24’ 43”, on the 2d September, 1859. We found bottom-land of the river at this point of a iit and loose soil, into which the feet of the mules would frequently sink for some 18 inches. We followed up the river, remaining on its right bank for some one hundred and SONAR miles, until we came oppo- site to the mouth of Canon Largo, in latitude 36° 43/28” and longitude 107° 43’ 29”, In the course of our march we observed many ruins of houses Fd found quantities of fragments of pottery scattered over the ground, indicating that the valley was once occupied by a race probably of the same origin and character as the Pueblo Indians extant in New Mexico. The fate of those former occupants of that dreary region is involved in mystery. It requires, however, no effort of the imagination to fancy that they may have been starved or frozen to death; for the winters are severe and fuel is very scarce there. I have no doubt that the warm season is very short there, otherwise more of the valley of the San Juan would be cultivated by the Navajos, who are a corn-growing people, for the river affords abundant water for irrigation, and carries soil enough to enrich and renew the fields. On the 15th September, 1859, we forded the San Juan, opposite Canon Largo, with no little danger, the strong current and deep water sweeping down some of the mules, which were recovered with difficulty. We were fortunate in passing through Camon Largo just after heavy rains, as I learned afterward that the command of Major Simon- son, which passed through the canon in July, had suffered much for the want of water. ‘There is one fine spring in the cation, about thirty-five miles from San Juan, but no other TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 7 reliable water until the San José spring is reached, about thirty miles farther to the southeast. From the last-named water we followed down the valley of the Puerco (a branch of the Rio del Norte) for about forty miles, when we crossed the southern spur of the Nacimiento Mountain and came to the old pueblo of Jemez, about fifty-six miles to the west. by south from Santa Fé. The route has been passed over by wagons from Santa Fé to a point a short distance to the westward of Jemez, and also from Santa Fé to the upper valley of the Chama, a short distance above Abiquiu, but on the remainder of the route passed over by my party there is no evidence of a wagon having ever been seen, and a suitable road for wagons could only be made at a heavy cost for construction, and it would doubtless meet with much opposition on the part of the Navajos and Utahs, whose country it would pass through. During the expedition my time was taken up with the astronomical observations requisite for laying down the route. In these observations I was assisted by Mr. F. P. Fisher, who noted the time and kept the record for me with accuracy and neatness. Mr. Fisher also carried a barometer throughout the march. All computations required for the astronomical observations were necessarily made by myself. Mr. C. H. Dimmock made an excellent sketch of the route, which he has drawn in one large map upon a scale of half an inch to the mile. This map I have tested by the results of my astronomical observations and computations with very great satisfaction. Messrs. Dorsey and Vail carried barometers and thermometers, and kept daily records of the indications of those instruments, chiefly from the readings of Mr. Vail. Mr. Dorsey also assisted the geologist in making some of the collections of natural history specimens. Dr. J. 8. Newberry, the geologist of the expedition, was particularly zealous and energetic in his examinations of the country, and I expect from him a report setting forth whatever there may be of interest in the route either to the public at large or to the man of science. I am now engaged, under your direction, in preparing for publication, upon a scale suitable for ordinary use, a map of the region visited by my party, which will exhibit with all requisite minuteness and accuracy of detail the features of the country, cover- ing an area of some twelve thousand square miles, which has heretofore been indicated upon the maps under the head of ‘ unexplored.” The expedition was accompanied by a detachment of infantry under the command of Lieut. M. Cogswell, of the Eighth Regiment, to whom we are indebted for ‘our safe escort through a wild and inhospitable tract of country, partly occupied by hostile and treacherous Indians. | I was directed, on my return to Santa Fé, to reduce my party and come in to Washington to prepare my report, and, on my way, to stop at the southwest corner of the Territory of Kansas, to set up a ney monument at a point some two and a quarter miles to the east of the one originally placed there. I accordingly diverged from the usual route across the plains from Fort Union and went up the Cimarron to the point indicated, and retraced that part of the thirty-seventh parallel from the’ old monument to the merdian of 103°, as laid down upon the map accompanying my instructions, and at the intersection of these two geographical lines I erected a rough stone monument. The 8 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE original monument above alluded to is of earth and sods. This duty was finished about the middle of November, 1859, when the thermometer was ranging from zero to about 16° above. [ was accompanied to this position by a small detachment of troops under the command of Lieut. Hl. M. Enos, of the regiment of mounted riflemen, to whose vigi- lance I am indebted for a safe transit to Fort Leavenworth, at a time when the Indians of the great plains had manifested the most decided determination to be troublesome. I remain, very respectfully, your most obedient servant, J. N. Macoms, Captain Topographical Lingineers. Capt. A. A. Humpnreys, Top. engineers, in charge of Office of Explorations and Surveys. Wasninaton, D. C., November 27, 1861. Cotonen: At the time of making my last annual report I was engaged in the preparation of a map of the region visited by the party which I conducted in the summer of 1859. The map was finished, and is now in the hands of an engraver, who prom- ises to give ine the finished plate by the month of March next. : The report upon the geology, &e., of the same region has been written by Dr. Newberry, and I hoped to have had it in my possession to send in for publication with the annual report from the Bureau of Topographieal Engineers, but, owing to the delay in finishing some of the drawings for illustrating the report, and to the fact that the veologist has for some months been actively employed with the duties of the “sanitary commission” in the West, I am not yet in the receipt of his results. J may add for myself that, as in the case of every available officer of the Government, my time has been so much engrossed by the duties which have pressed upon me, arising out of the existing state of affairs in our country, that I have been prevented from pushing the reports and maps, &e., of the San Juan exploration to a conclusion. I hope, however, that they will all be rendered to me before the close of the session of Congress now about to commence. All of which is respectfully submitted by your obedient servant, J. N. Macoms, Lieut. Col., Aid-de-camp to Maj. Gen. McClellan, and Major Top'l Engineers. Lieut. Col. H. Bacne, Commanding Corps Topographical Engineers, U. S. A. EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM)SANTA FE TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. Pe OGICAL REPO. BY Wao, INT WISIGREY, IME. Ios Solas DD. GEOLOGIST TO THE EXPEDITION. 2SF PREFATORY NOTE. CotumBiA CoLLece, New York, June 1, 1875. ~The following report was prepared for publication at the time indicated by the date ‘of my letter to Captain (now Colonel) Macomb, but the breaking out of the rebellion arrested the publication of all the reports of surveys made by the Govern- ment expeditions immediately previous to this event. The reports of the surveys made by Lieutenant (now General) G. K. Warren, United States Engineers, Captain (now General) W. F. Raynolds, the report of the Northwestern Boundary Commission, and some others, were in this category, and much most valuable information in regard to the far West has been lost to the country and the world by the suppression of these important documents. As attention is now again drawn to the region bordering the San Juan and Upper Colorado, and several parties are occupied in exploring adjacent districts, the results of the explorations made by the San Juan Exploring Expedition have acquired an importance in this connection which has rendered their publication desirable. ‘They are therefore now given to the public. Although much has been learned in regard to the geology of the country drained by the Colorado River during the last ten years, and much that has a bearing on the subject-matter of this report, none of this lately- acquired knowledge is referred to on its pages, but they are printed precisely as written in 1860. This course has been pursued as the only just and natural one. The observations made fifteen years ago, if accurately made, have equal value now as then; if inaccurate, it is only right that the credit of the correction of errors should belong to those who make such corrections. The geological narrative now given stands, therefore, just as written, and is a fair exponent of the state of our geographical and geological knowledge of the West at the date of its preparation. It is evident that to modify the report so as to conform to all the conclusions more recently reached, would be to falsify the record and greatly impair the independence and value of the statements it includes. The truth or error of these statements will soon be demonstrated by the extension of the explorations of other parties into this field. It is but just that the eredit or discredit of the trial to which the report is to be subjected should belong to.the writer. Knowing that his work was done honestly, and believing that it was in the main accurately done, he accepts the entire responsibility of it, whether for praise or blame. J.S.N. LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL, Wasuinaton, D. C., May 1, 1860. Dear Sir: I submit herewith my report on the geology of the country traversed by the San Juan Exploring Expedition, in which I had the honor to serve under your command, Very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. S. NewBerry. Capt. J. N. Macoms, Topographical I:ngineers, United States Army. © EY Aaa 1. GEOLOGY OF THE ,ROUTE BETWEEN INDEPENDENCE AND SANTA FE. JENERAL GEOLOGICAL SKETCH — INDEPENDENCE TO DRAGOON CREEK — CARBONIFEROUS STRATA — CHARACTER OF GOAL AND CoAL-MEASURES OF KANSAS — DUE TO WHAT CAUSES—COAL-PLANTS OF KANSAS—MORUSCAS FOSSILS—DRAGOON OREEK TO COTTON- wood CREEK—PERMO-CARBONIFEROUS AND PERMIAN STRATA— DIFFICULTY: OF SEPA- RATING THESE FORMATIONS—CoTronwooD CREEK TO WALNUT CREEK—GYPSUM FORMA. TION—ITS PARALLELISM — WALNUT CREEK TO PAWNEE ForRK— LOWER CRETACEOUS ROCKS—SANDSTONES WITH IMPRESSIONS OF CAVES—PAWNEE ForK TO CIMARRON—TERTI- ARY STRATA—ARKANSAS BASIN—ITS RELATION TO THAT OF WHITE RIVER—CIMARRON TO ENCHANTED SPRING—JURASSIC (?) ROCKS—ENCHANTED SPRING TO COTTONWOOD SPRING— LOWER CRETACEOUS AND TERTIARY BEDS—CoTTONWOOD SPRING TO CANADIAN—TRAP BUTTES AND MESAS NEAR RATroN MOUNTAINS—CRETACEOUS ROCKS OF THE CANADIAN— TABLE-LANDS SKIRTING THE Rocky MOoUNTAINS—CANADIAN TO LAS VEGAS — TRAP PLATEAU TO BURGEOIN’S SPRING —CORETACEOUS STRATA AT Fort UNnrton AND LAS VEGAS. The geology of the country bordering the Santa Fé road is described somewhat in detail in Chapter X of my report to Lieut. J. C. Ives, U.S. A., on the geology of the Colorado country. It will not, therefore, be necessary to devote as much time and space to this portion of our field of explorations as though it were before wholly unknown. In our recent journey from Independence, Mo., to Santa Fé, however, we passed over quite a large area not traversed on the route from Santa Fé to Fort Leavenworth. In repassing also the route formerly traveled, our stopping-places were, in many instances, different ; many new exposures of the rocks were examined, and observations were made by which it is now possible to define much more accu- rately than was formerly done the geographi ‘al limits of the different formations met with. Iam happy to say that the conclusions arrived at in my former report on the geology of this region, in regard to the relative position of the various strata noticed, were fully confirmed by our later observations; and the value of the facts now reported consists, for the most part, in the more accurate limitation of the surface- boundaries of the formations, and in the paleontological evidence which they furnish of the age of strata before, in a great degree, conjectural. The number of fossils discovered in our late transit of the plains was large in the Carboniferous, Permian, and Cretaceous rocks, but I had constant occasion to regret that our means of transporta- 16 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE tion were so limited that I was compelled to leave much behind that would have been of great interest if brought in. Among the localities most rich in fossils, to which I would call the attention of future collectors, are the exposures of the Upper Carbon- iferous series in Eastern Kansas, near Uniontown, at Rockhouse, Walter’s Station, and Burlingame; Permo-Carboniferous, at Dragoon Creek and Wilmington; true Permian on the hill-tops east of Council Grove, and on Cottonwood Creek; Lower Cretaceous at the crossing of Pawnee Fork, at Cedar and Cottonwood Springs, and Whetstone Creek; Middle Cretaceous (Upper Cretaceous of former report) in the valley of Red Fork of Canadian, particularly at the “Breaks of Red River.” INDEPENDENCE TO DRAGOON CREEK. The surface-rocks of all Eastern Kansas and Western Missouri belong to the Coal-Measures. These are exposed in many places along the banks of the Missouri, and include beds of coal which are extensively worked at Lexington. In Kansas I have examined the out-crops of the Coal-Measures at various points on the road from Independence westward, about Leavenworth City, along the valley of the Kansas, on the Stranger, Grasshopper Creeks, &c. ‘Taken as a whole, the Coal-Measures of this region present a marked contrast with those of the northern portion of the Illinois coal-field, and a still greater one with those of the Ohio and Pennsylvania. This difference con- sists in the much smaller aggregate quantity of carbonaceous matter and in the vast preponderance of organic over mechanical sediments, 7. ¢., of limestones over the sand- stones and shales, which make up the great mass of the Carboniferous series in the northern portion of the Allegheny coal-field. As I have formerly remarked, this dif- ference seems to be a consequence of the fact that, during the Carboniferous epoch, the region occupied by the coal-basin of Missouri and Kansas was more remote from the source from which the mechanical sediments were derived, and was much more fre- quently, or at least for longer periods, submerged beneath the water of the ocean than the region with which I have compared it. Professor Hall has indicated a similar dif- ference of structure between the northern and southern portions of the Hlinois coal- field, and has clearly shown how the great calcareous masses of the southern extremity of this coal-basin are the records of the existence of an open sea in the regions where they exist, while the coal, sandstones, and shales were accumulating on the low shores or shallows bordering the continent which lay to the north. In my former report, I have described the progressive change which was noticed in the structure of the Carboniferous series in going from New Mexico to Ohio, and have shown how the great masses of limestone without beds of coal, and almost with- out any mechanical admixture, were succeeded in Kansas by a series of thick, but distinctly separated beds of Fusilina limestone, between which were thinner strata of fine argillaceous shale, with a few seams of cannel or cannel-like coal; and that in Ohio the Fusilina limestones, not individually, but as a group, are represented by the thin calcareous bands which separate the greatly-preponderating masses of mechan- ical sediment. Further examination has fully verified the accuracy of these observa- tions, and has confirmed in all its general bearings the theory by which the phenomena were explained. It should be observed, however, that the change which has been TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 17 remarked by Professor Hall in the structure of the coal-basins, going ‘from north to south, and by myself from northeast to southwest, is not uniformly progressive through- out their entire extent, but was modified locally by the sinuosities of the shore-line of the northern main-land, and by the presence of islands at a greater or less distance from the shore toward the south and southwest; in illustration of which we may cite the comparative barrenness of the Coal-Measures of Northern and Central Illinois, where, as in Kansas, the calcareous strata vastly predominate, with the greater development of strata and mechanical sediments in Southern Illinois and Kentucky; so also the productive Coal-Measures of the region about Fort Belknap, in Texas, where the quan- tity of carbonaceous and sandy matter is equal to, if not greater than, that of Kansas directly north. At Sante Fé, also, as will be seen from the description hereafter to be given of the geology of that vicinity, the Carboniferous series includes a great thickness of coarse sandstone filled with the impressions of land-plants, evidently transported no very great distance from their place of origin. As we progress southward, however, we ultimately reach the limit of traces of the existence of terrestrial surfaces during the coal period, as in Southern and Southwestern New Mexico, where the entire Car- boniferous series is represented by a calcareous mass, all an organic or chemical pre- cipitate from the waters of the ocean, and the proof of the uninterrupted existence of an open sea in that region throughout the entire carboniferous epoch. Coal—The coals of Missouri and Kansas have all, to a certain extent, a common character, as compared with those of the Alleghany coal-fields; they are softer, and contain a larger amount of volatile matter, of water, and of sulphur. Some of them are cannel, frequently handsome and of good quality, and those which are not strictly cannel are more or less like it in chemical composition and physical structure, and they frequently have layers of cannel running through them. They are generally quite tender, and when exposed to the action of the weather, like the Cretaceous and Ter- tiary coals of the western part of the continent, which they so much resemble, they are prone to “slack,” or to break up into innumerable rhomboidal or cubical fragments. The causes of the peculiar character of the coals of Kansas are to be sought, I think, in the physical conditions attending their formation, rather than in any peculi- arity of the vegetation from which they were derived. In a paper, published in the American Journal of Science, of March, 1857, I have attempted to show that the char- acters which distinguish cannels from other bituminous coals are for the most part due to the excess of water in which they were submerged during the process of their for- mation. I have also been led to suppose that this cause has, to a considerable degree, given to the western coals the characters they exhibit; that the carbonaceous matter composing them was, during its accumulation, more thoroughly saturated or more completely submerged than that composing the coal-strata of the Alleghany basin; and that when the coal-seams had attained their entire thickness they were not, imme- diately buried beneath heavy masses of mechanical sediment, by the weight of which all the effects of great pressure would be obtained, but, instead, were submerged per- haps deeply beneath water, the pressure of which would be expended. in all directions, and would, therefore, not act as a distinct compress on the saturated mass. That the chemical characters of these coals have been in any great degree modified by this cause 3SF 18 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE I will not insist, but by submerging a porous body, such as a sponge, it will be seen that the pressure of the superincumbent water has no tendency to bring its particles in contact or consolidate it. The excess of sulphur is doubtless due to the decomposition of the numerous marine organisms which inhabited the water by which the coal was saturated or submerged. Fossils—The conditions under which the coal-strata of Kansas have been formed were not favorable to the preservation of a large number of plants; less than a dozen species having been discovered there up to the present time. ‘These are Cordaites borassifolia, Annularia sphenophydoides, Sphenophyllum dentatum, Alethopteris Serlir, Pecop- teris arborescens, Neuropteris flexuosa, N. hirsutu, and Sigillaria Menardi. These plants are all found in the coal-formation east of the Mississippi. The molluscous fossils of this region have been pretty thoroughly worked up by Messrs. Shumard, Swallow, and Meck. They are enumerated in the papers of these gentlemen in the proceedings of the Saint Louis and Philadelphia academies ; and in Chapter X of my report on the Geology of the Colorado Country. In some portions of Eastern Kansas the Upper Carboniferous limestones contain the remains of echinoderms, of which the spines and plates sometimes almost com- pletely cover the weathered surfaces of the rocks. They all belong to the genus Archeocidaris, and constitute several species described by Messrs. Shumard and Hall. These fossils present a new feature in the Carboniferous fauna to one who has studied that formation only east of the Mississippi, where they are exceedingly rare. They are, however, equally common in the Carboniferous rocks of New Mexico; one of the Kansas species recurring in great numbers at Pecos Village, near Santa Fé, and. sev- eral others of large size, described in my report to Lieutenant Ives, are conspicuous features in the limestones, equivalents of the Coal-Measures, on the banks of the Col- orado. ; The Fusilinas, which give character to the Fusilina limestones of Missouri and Kansas, have attracted the attention and excited the surprise of every geologist who has visited that region. The Coal-Measure limestones are almost everywhere crowded with them, and in many instances they compose by far the greater portion of their mass. It is not easy to say what influences could have fostered this enormous develop- ment of Foraminiferous life in the sea from which the Kansas limestones were deposited ; for these fossils, like the echinoderms of which I have spoken, are almost unknown east of the Mississippi; but, unlike them, are comparatively rare in the limestones of New Mexico. DRAGOON CREEK TO COTTONWOOD CREEK. The Carboniferous rocks which I have described as so characteristic of Kastern Kansas, prevail without interruption over all the interval between Independence, Mo., and Dragoon Creek. Although the exposures of the underlying rocks are frequent along the Sante Fé road, the surface is merely undulated, nowhere broken, and there are no deep excavations formed by the draining streams. As a consequence the order of succession of strata could not be fully made out, and it is probable that not every num- ber of the series is anywhere visible along our line of examination. It is not certain, therefore, that there are not beds of coal or other valuable minerals still lying concealed TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 19 by the prairie-grass or beneath the widely-spread Drift deposits over which passes the great thoroughfare of the Sante Fé road. As far as I could see or learn, however, the Coal-Measures are there generally barren of useful minerals. The iron-ores and the fire-clays, so abundantly associated with the coal-beds in Ohio and Pennsylvania, are almost entirely wanting, and but a single outcrop of a coal-seam of workable thick- ness—that of Burlingame, described in my former report—is known in the vicimity of our route. The coal-strata of this region are, however, not only less numerous, but less continuous than are those east of the Mississippi, and it is highly probable that local but valuable deposits of mineral-fucl will hereafter be discovered where their existence is not now suspected. At Dragoon Creek we reach the extreme summit of the Carboniferous formation, and first meet with those which may be regarded as distinctly Permian. As has been remarked, in the discussion of this question on a former occasion, it is exceedingly difficult, if not impossible, to separate these two formations in this region by any well- defined line ‘This is clearly shown also by the able analysis of the geological struc- ture of Eastern Kansas by Messrs. Meek and Hayden, and Swallow and Hawn, and especially by the difference of opinion which still exists among these gentlemen as to where the line of demarcation should be drawn. The rocks of that country are conform- able throughout, and the materials composing them are so similar as to indicate great uniformity in the physical conditions which attended their deposition. The fossils which they contain must therefore be our only guide in their classification ; and these, though numerous and well marked, are so distributed as to give fair ground for con- siderable difference of honest opinion Beneath the variegated non-fossiliferous series of the Trias, are certain beds of magnesian limestone which contain a large number of fossils, for the most part gener- ically identical with, and specifically closely allied to, the most characteristic forms of the Permian of Europe. These consist of species of Bakevellia, Leda, Axinus, Monotis, Pseudomonotis, Myalina, Pleurophorous, Productus, Athyris, Chonetes, Nautilus, Bellerophon, Murchisonia, &c. Of these one species of Monotis, and another of Myalina, are scarcely distinguishable from those which occur in the Coal-Measures below, though very possi- bly distinct. The Athyris, however—a variety of A. subtilita, but broader and more eibbous than the common form—recurs in the underlying strata with a fauna decidedly Carboniferous. ‘The same is probably true of a species of Bellerophon common in these magnesian limestones. The Productus mentioned (P. Cathounianus) is s rarcely differ- ent from P. semireticulatus.. With the possible exceptions I have enumerated the fauna of this group is decidedly Permian in character; and if the Permian formation is to be regarded as distinct from the Carboniferous, which is scarcely to be doubted, although the separation would not have been made if our American strata had been the basis of eeological classification, this upper group of magnesian limestones should undoubtedly be ealled Permian. Below the magnesian rocks to which I have referred, occur numer- ous alternations of magnesian limestones and variously-colored clays which contain a mingling of Carboniferous and Permian fossils, or perhaps more properly a mingling of the species contained in the upper group of magnesian limestones with others common in the Carboniferous strata below, added to which are a few species that seem to be 20 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE restricted to this geological horizon. In the upper part of this intermediate group of strata, we have the Bakevellia, Plewrophorous, Avinus, &c., of the beds above, and a fauna perhaps more Permian than Carboniferous, but below we soon reach a level where the Carboniferous types predominate. This group of strata has been regarded by Professor Swallow as all of Permian age, while Mr. Meek terms it Permo-Carboniferous, draw- ing the line which marks the base of the Permian at the base of the first group of mag- nesian limestones, and restricting this term to those members of the series in which the Permian fata predominates over the Carboniferous. From this interlocking of the Carboniferous and Permian faunze, it is evident that the line of separation between the two formations must continue to be debatable ground; and as there is, in fact, a group which contains a mingled fauna—in truth, a Permo-Carboniferous group—we must introduce this new member into the geological series, or fix upon some conventional line which shall form the boundary between the sununit of the Carboniferous and the base of the Permian formations. ‘To avoid com- plicating the geological scale, the latter course would undoubtedly be the wiser one; and since there is neither physical nor vital break in the series, it is perhaps not a matter of great consequence whether the line be drawn at the horizon where the first Permian type makes its appearance, or at the horizon beyond which the last Carbon- iferous species ceases to exist, or even at the point, if indeed it were determinable, where the species of the two formations are represented in equal numbers; in other words, whether at the top, bottom, or middle of the Permo-Carboniferous group. It will be seen by reference to the papers which have been before cited, that, while con- taining several Permian types, the fauna of the ‘ Lower Permian” group of Swallow and Hawn has considerably more of the Carboniferous than Permian character; and as great bodies attract more strongly than small ones, it seems more natural that the debatable ground should be ceded to the great and well-defined Carboniferous series, of which the symmetry would suffer without it, rather than to the comparatively insig- nificant and ill-defined Permian formation. It seems probable, therefore, that the “Lower Permian” group of Swallow and Hawn will be regarded as an integral portion of the Carboniferous system, while the term Permian will be restricted to the Permian of Meek and Hayden, to the ‘Upper Permian” of Swallow and Hawn. It is evident that only those strata should be regarded as Permian in which the Permian fauna pre- dominates. In the hills bordering Dragoon Creek I first found limestones containing the group of fossils—Pleurophorous, Bakevellia, Axinus, Bellerophon, &c.—to which I have referred above. I*arther west, toward Council Grove, the hills are capped with yellow mag- nesian limestone, in many places crowded with the valves of Bakevellia parva. Over a considerable area in this vicinity the highlands are occupied by what may be consid- ered true Permian strata, while the valleys of all the water-courses are excavated to and into the Permo-Carboniferous, or, as I have called them, Upper Carboniferous strata. At Council Grove, Diamond Spring, Lost Spring, and Cottonwood Creek, obser- vations were made and fossils collected by Major Hawn, Messrs. Meek and Hayden, and myself last year. The geology of all these points is nearly the same. At each the TO JUNOTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 21 Permian magnesian limestones occupy the general surface, but are cut through bythe valleys of the draining streams. Below them are exposed strata containing Orthisina umbraculum Productus Calhounianus ; spines of a species of Arch@ocidaris, regarded by Professor Swallow as identical with A. Verneuiliana, King; a small Athyris, and a Ithynchonella ; all of which belong rather to the Carboniferous than to the Permian fauna. Near Cottonwood Creek the Upper Magnesian limestone, or true Permian, is highly fossiliferous; containing great numbers of Myalina perattenuata, Monotis (Pseu- domonotis), Hawni, Bakevellia parva, and many other species deseribed by Meek and Hayden, who collected largely at this locality. COTTONWOOD CREEK TO WALNUT CREEK. THE GYPSUM FORMATION. On the west side of Cottonwood Creek, the Permian limestones pass beneath the surface, and are not distinctly recognizable at any western point upon the Sante Fé road. They are succeeded by a series of reddish-yellow and white indurated marls, forming a part of the great Gypsum formation,” which is so couspicuous a feature in the geology of the Indian Territory, New Mexico, and Western Texas. This group fills the interval between the Permian strata, which I have described, and the base of the Cretaceous system; including representatives of perhaps portions of the Permian, the ‘Triassic, and Jurassic formations of the Old World. The magnificent exposures of this series which abound in New Mexico, have been noticed by every geologist and almost every traveler who has entered that country. It will be seen by reference to the reports upon the geology of the Southwest made to the Government by the writer or others, that this formation is everywhere characterized by great poverty of fos- sils, and for this reason, as well as from the general similarity of its lithological char- acters from base to summit, and in different localities, it has been hitherto impossible to separate it by satisfactory dividing lines, or to determine with accuracy the equivalence of any of its parts with the different formations which it may be supposed to repre- sent. The study devoted to this group of strata by the writer, while connected with the party under the command of Lieutenant Ives, was not wholly fruitless, but it must be confessed that, as far as regards the determination of the parallelism of its sub- divisions with the strata to which they have been referred, it enables him rather to say what they are not, than what they are. The observations made upon this formation in our recent explorations of the country bordering the San Juan and Upper Colorado Rivers—where it is very largely developed—will be detailed in the subsequent chap- ters of this report, and it is hoped that they will serve to throw some additional light on this difficult and perplexing subject. | The materials composing the Gypsum formation are usually so soft that in a country well supplied with rain and covered with vegetation they present few satisfac- tory exposures, and are even usually wholly concealed from view. This is the char- acter of the district now under consideration, and it is only heré and there that the traveler can obtain even a glimpse of its geological substructure. It is evident, how- ever, from the limited space occupied by the outcrop of this group, taken in connec- 22 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FB tion with the nearly horizontal position of the strata, that the interval which here sep- arates the Carboniferous and Cretaceous series is far less than at any point where it has been examined farther to the south and west. This is also proved from the sec- tions given by Messrs. Meek and Hayden in the report of their explorations in Kansas, where it is shown that the rocks filling this gap have not more than one-third or one- fourth the thickness of those which occupy the same relative position in New Mexico. The interesting discovery by Dr. Hayden of a group of strata in the Black Hills, which represent a portion of the Gypsum formation and yet contain numerous well-marked Jurassic fossils, shows that this series exhibits in different localities consid- erable diversity of character and development, and encourages us to hope that here- after similar industry and energy, by bringing to light other localities where these strata are fossiliferous, will permit an accurate classification to be made of them on paleontological grounds. It may then be possible to establish a parallelism between subdivisions of this group and the Jura and Trias of Kurope, but it is evident that until unmistakable Triassic fossils are discovered in the Southwest, even this general parallelism can hardly be said to be established. That it will ever be possible to iden- tify in the members of the Gypsum formation the Oolite, Lias, the Marnes-Irisées, the Muschelkalk, and Gres-bigarré, is more than doubtful. On the banks of the Little Arkansas there is an exposure of laminated, yellowish- white, fine-grained, rippled-marked sandstone, and a singular cellular amygdaloid-like magnesian (?) limestone, which apparently belong to the Gypsum formation, yet which exhibit lithological characters such as I have not elsewhere seen in any member of that group. As far as observed they contain no fossils whatever, and without further evidence it is impossible to say what are their precise equivalents in other localities. I shall soon have occasion, in speaking of the geology of the region bordering the Upper Cimarron, to refer to another group of strata which underlie the Lower Creta- ceous rocks and hold a place usually occupied by a portion of the Gypsum series. ‘These strata present characters somewhat at variance with those usually exhibited by the Gypsiferous group, and such as have led me to suspect that they form part of a somewhat local deposit, which may be the representative of the Jurassic strata, dis- covered by Dr. Hayden in Nebraska. I have been able to discover no evidence of the existence of similar rocks, beneath the Cretaceous and above the Permian, east of Walnut Creek. WALNUT CREEK TO PAWNEE FORK. LOWER CRETACEOUS ROCKS. Before reaching Walnut Creek, the Santa Fé road enters the valley of the Arkansas, which is several miles in width, and is bounded on the north and west by the abrupt edges of the “high prairie,” a nearly level plateau, which occupies an immense area west of this point. In this plateau the tributaries of the Arkansas have excavated valleys of greater or less breadth, but they are generally narrow and are separated by ‘“ divides” of the high prairie, which to the eye are as level as the surface of still water, and are everywhere covered with a velvety carpet of buffalo-grass. Smoky Tall Fork of the Kansas, Cottonwood Creek, the Little Arkansas, Cow Creek, Walnut Creek, &e., all TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 23 traverse, at least through a part of their courses, channels which they have excavated in the “high prairie.” Throughout the greater part of the area drained by these streams the geological substratum of the plateau I have described is the Lower Cretaceous sandstone, or, more properly, a group of strata, though sometimes consisting of but a single bed, which forms the base of the Cretaceous system; No. 1 of Meek and Hayden’s Ne- braska section of the Cretaceous series. This group is composed principally and some- times exclusively of thick-bedded, coarse-grained, ferruginous sandstone, containing as characteristic fossils a large number of species of angiospermous leaves. Around the edge of the high prairie this sandstone caps or composes many isolated buttes which have been severed from their connection with-the plateau by aqueous erosion. Such, we learn from Messrs. Meek and Hayden, is the structure of the Smoky Hills, from which they obtained a large part of the impressions of leaves described by the writer, and such also is the structure of Pawnee Rock, which stands near the road be- tween Walnut Creek and Pawnee Fork. At Allison’s ranch, on Walnut Creek, this sandstone has precisely the lithological characters of that from the Smoky Hills, but I was not able fo detect in it any traces of fossils. At Walnut Creek, however, twenty- five miles distant, vegetable impressions are abundant, including, apparently, some of the same species obtained from Smoky Hill, Blackbird Hill, &e. : The geological horizon marked by this Lower Cretaceous sandstone group is per- haps the best defined of all in the entire geological series in the Southwest, and more generally useful as a plane of reference than any other. From the resistant character of the materials composing this group, it has held its place over an immense extent of country from which the softer superior strata have been removed. When the upper members of the Cretaceous formation are present, as is the case in much of the coun- try hereafter to be described, the Lower Cretaceous sandstones are covered with more than a thousand feet of limestones, or calcareous shales filled with the remains of ma- rine organisms, and evidently a deposit from the waters of the ocean. In an analysis of the Cretaceous formation, to be given in a succeeding chapter of this report, I shall attempt to deduce, from the composition and fossil contents of the different members of this series, something of the history of the changing phases of the physical geog- raphy of the central portion of the continent during their deposition. I may say, however, in passing, that these coarse Cretaceous sandstones are exclusively mechan- ical deposits, and such as have not been transported any very great distance from their place of origin; that, extending as they do from the vicinity of the Mississippi all the way to the base of the Rocky Mountains, they mark a period of general subsidence in all this portion of the continent—a period through which the sea was eradually encroaching upon the land. The shore-line was then constantly marching inland, leaving behind it proofs of the power of its littoral waves; which comminuted and sifted the barriers op- posing their progress, and formed of their ruins these beds of stratified sands and pebbles, which may be regarded as only an unbroken series of ancient sea-beaches. The finer materials, washed by the shore-waves, were taken into suspension or solu- tion by the sea-water, and, mingled with or composing the remains of marine animals, were spread over the ocean bottom as the shales and limestones of which I have betore e 24 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE spoken. This encroachment of the sea took place from east to west, and the invading flood is now represented by the Gulf of Mexico. This is indicated by the facts that the Lower Cretaceous sandstones thin out and disappear toward the south and east, where nearly the entire Cretaceous series is represented by marine and organic sedi- ments; while, as we go toward the west and northwest, on the contrary, the sandstones increase in thickness, He superincumbent strata become less and less calcareous, until ultimately, as we approach the shores of the continent not submerged by the Creta- ceous ocean, the mechanical sediments greatly preponderate over the organic, and beds of sandstone and shale of enormous thickness, the direct débris of the laxid, represent all the subdivisions of the chalk formation. | . [have spoken in my former report of the parallelism between the Lower Creta- ceous strata of New México and those of Nebraska, as described by Meek and Hay- den, and those of New Jersey, by Professor Cook. How accurately the Lower Cre- taceous rocks of the district now under consideration represent those of the regions just mentioned will be seen in the following section : Section of Lower Cretaceous rocks at the crossing of Pawnee Fork. No. 1. Soft, coarse sandstone, dark reddish-brown, yellow, or nearly white; lower part finer, and containing impressions of dicotyledonous leaves (Salix, &e.) to summit of cliff, about 50 feet. Light dove-colored clay, with lignite and broken leaves, 10 feet. 3. Yellow sandy clay with vegetable impressions to bed of stream; about 15 feet exposed. I had not time fully to explore this locality, but the fossils are quite numerous and very accessible. The species of Salix referred to is apparently identical with S. AZeek, obtained at Smoky Hill by Meek and Hayden. The dove-colored clay which under- lies the sandstone is scar cely distinguishable from that which holds a similar position in New Jersey, and which, Tike this, is filled with vegetable matter. By reference to the section of the rocks of Kansas given by Messrs. ae and Hayden, in the Proceedings of the Philadelphia Acé wong January, 1 859, it will be noticed that the “red, are n, and yellowish coarse-grained sandstone, containing leaves of dicotyledonous trees, forming the summits of the Smoky Hills,” is underlaid by ‘whitish, very fine-grained, argillaceous sandstone, with bluish, purple, and ash- colored clays.” Though containing at that locality no vegetable impressions, it is evident that these latter beds are the equivalents, of those Benoned beneath the sand- stone on Pawnee Fork. PAWNEE FORK TO CROSSING OF CIMARRON. TERTIARY STRATA. After leaving Pawnee Fork the Santa Fé road crosses the margin of an immense Tertiary basin, to which I first called attention in my report on the geology of the Colorado country, and designated by the name of the “Tertiary basin of the Arkansas.” TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 25 During my former transit of the plains I formed the opinion that the western boundary of this ‘Tertiary belt was passed near the crossing of the Cimarron; and it is still a ge that ‘Tertiary strata will not be found west of that point which are con- tinuous with those forming the table-lands bordering the Arkansas, but during the past season I noticed similar beds recurring at various points quite up to the bases of the Rocky Mountains, and I think we have evidence that at one time Tertiary rocks occupied the surface of a large territory in this region, from which they have been entirely removed, or so nearly so as to be represented by isolated and often widely separated patches. As will be seen by reference to the sections exposed at various points along the western portion of the Santa Fé road, these Tertiary rocks are entirely uncontormable to those upon which they rest; are of very much later date, and were deposited, not only subsequent to the mexodl when the entire series of Cretaceous strata had been laid down, but after they had been much disturbed, and elevated to such a point that valleys, eroded by surface action, had been cut down to and through-the base of that series. In different localities the Tertiary strata rest up on the Middle or Lower Cretaceous rocks, or even on the underlying Triassic formation. The vicinity of the Raton Mountains has, in former times, been the theater of violent and wide-spread volcanic action. At that time numerous mountain masses and subordinate buttes of trap were thrown up, and floods of lava poured out, covering an extensive area in their vicinity. During this period of violence the Cretaceous rocks were locally much disturbed and Beulacrpliosed, and the lowest members of that series clevated to, and perhaps far above, the surface of the ocean. At some time sub- sequent to the period of greatest volcanic activity, and yet apparently before the fires in this great furnace were: entirely extinguished, the T ertiary strata began to be deposited in the depressions, and over the irregularities which then oxsind on the surface. Unfortunately, in all the localities where | examined these strata, they seemed to be destitute of fossils. We are, therefore, as yet without the light which they would throw upon the conditions of their deposition, and the conclusions to which I have arrived in reference to the precise age of these beds are to a certain extent con- jectural, and liable to be modified by future discoveries, yet there seems to be good reason for supposing that they are what I have called them, Tertiary, and that they are continuous with the Tertiary basins of Northwestern Kansas and Nebraska. The reasons for this conclusion are, first, that these deposits are considerably more recent than any portion of the Cretaceous series represented in the region in which they exist; second, that in their lithological characters and the circumstances of their depo- eect they are the exact counterparts of the fresh-water ‘Tertiary strata of. the basins to which I have referred, and which are also only locally and rarely fossiliferous ; third, that the Tertiary strata of the Upper Platte extend southward toward the Arkansas, where their only possible representatives are those under consideration ; fourth, Tertiary fossils are said to have been found in these beds on the banks of the Arkansas, above the crossing. . : In lithological characters the Tertiary rocks of the Arkansas basin are considerably unlike any marine deposit with which I am familiar, but the greater portion of them 4S F 26 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE strikingly resemble the fresh-water Tertiary limestones of the Paris basin; and, as I have said, are undistinguishable from those of the ‘“bad-lands” of the Upper Missouri, shown by their fossils to be all of fresh-water or estuary origin. The great mass of the Arkansas beds is made up of white or cream-colored limestone, closely resembling much of the calcareous tufa deposited from springs, and frequently containing masses of black or red, very light and porous scoria; with this tufaceous limestone-are associated strata of more compact laminated cream-colored limestone; a bed of coarse, friable light-colored sandstone, frequently a conglomerate ; and at a higher level a stratum of exceedingly coarse conglomerate, of which the pebbles, if such they can be called, are often 6 or 8 inches in diameter. ‘These pebbles are principally composed of quartz or the harder erupted rocks, basalt, porphyry, &e., with occasionally a frag- ment of Carboniferous limestone. I noticed that in going toward the west the mate- rials composing these sandstones and conglomerates became much coarser, showing that they had been derived from the direction of the Rocky Mountains. Although the Tertiary basins of the West have been studied in but a small portion of their extent, and we are as yet very far from being in possession of all the facts in reference to their areas, their structure, or their fossils, which will permit us to write in full the history of their deposition, the observations already made all seem to point to the eon- clusion that the Tertiary epoch was an era of progressive elevation over all the central portions of our continent ; and that during the greater part of this epoch, the continent had nearly the form and area which it has at present. The purely marine Tertiaries appear to be restricted to the immediate vicinity of the present ocean ;; and to a narrow belt along the valley of the Mississippi, which continued to be occupied till a comparatively recent period by an arm of the Gulf of Mexico. So far as at present known, all the Tertiary strata which are found between the Mississippi and the Sierra Nevada are of fresh-water or estuary origin. The gradual retrocession of the ocean is also indicated by the fact reported by Dr. Hayden that where estuary shells are found in the Tertiary strata of Nebraska they are ‘generally restricted to the lower beds of the series; the overlying strata containing fresh-water species. We are led to infer, therefore, that the Tertiary basins which skirt the bases of the Rocky Mountains, were Gnce the beds of rivers and lakes of the Tertiary continent; and, except m the immediate vicinity of the coast-line, were wholly occupied by fresh water. It is also probable that some of these basins occupy former lines of drainage from the Rocky Motntains; and that the beds of coarse sand and gravel made up of fragments of crystalline rocks, wholly foreign to the localities where they are found, but abundant in and peculiar to the Rocky Mountains, were transported from their distant places of origin by the rapid currents of these ancient rivers. The further consideration of these facts, as well as others bearing on the subject of the physical geography of the central portions of the continent during the Tertiary epoch, must be deferred to a subsequent portion of this report, where it will more properly find place. The details of structure of the Tertiary basin of the Arkansas will be, perhaps, most readily understood by a few extracts from my notes, made at various points along our route where the Tertiary strata are exposed. ‘‘ After leaving Pawnee Fork, the road passes over level bottom-lands for several miles, where it divides; the left-hand branch TO JUNOTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 27 following the windings of the Arkansas; the other, called the ‘dry road,’ rising on to and crossing the table-land which separates the valleys of Pawnee Fork and the Upper Arkansas. This table-land is underlain by a white tufaceous limestone, exposed in the bed of the Coon Creeks, and still better at the point where the dry road comes down again to the Arkansas. It is also thrown out in many different places from the burrows of the prairie-dogs. In lithological characters, this rock is precisely like a portion of the strata of the ‘bad-lands’ of Nebraska; contains no fossils, but a few pebbles of crystalline rock. At the Caches, sixteen miles below the crossing of the Arkansas, the same stratum is seen overlaid by some thirty feet of coarse, soft, light- brown conglomerate, much cross-stratified. The cement is coarse silicious sand; the pebbles, from the size of an egg downward, of granite, trap, quartz, porphyry, trachyte, Jasper, quartzite, chert, &e., with a few of Carboniferous limestone.” “At the crossing of the Arkansas, the following section is exposed : “1. Spongy tufaceous limestone like that on Dry road. “2. Coarse, soft conglomerate, same as at Caches, 35 feet. “3. ‘Tufaceous limestone, like No. 1, to base.” “The sand-hills, which border the Arkansas on the south side, seem to have been derived from the decomposition of the Tertiary conglomerate.” “The same stratum forms the banks of the Cimarron, and has apparently given character to its sandy and sterile valley. The ‘Jornada,’ the divide between the Arkansas and Cimarron, is another portion of the high prairie, precisely like, in physi- ral and geological structure, that crossed by the ‘dry road.” “At Kighteen-mile ridge, on the Cimarron, the coarse conglomerate and chalky tufa are exposed, as at many points below. The conglomerate is composed of a coarse sandy cement, with pebbles from the size of shot to eight inches in diameter. The larger ones are compact, fine-grained, reddish-yellow sandstone, doubtless of Lower Cretaceous age, and such as comes to the surface farther westward. Others are com- posed of granite, amygdaloid, clay-slate, quartz, jasper, &c. The greater size of the pebbles in this conglomerate perhaps indicates that, in going westward, we are approaching the source from which they were derived. The conglomerate would seem to be a drift from the Rocky Mountains, where, and where only, as far as I am aware, such materials occur in place. If this is true, when on the Cimarron, we were doubtless standing in the chamel of a great line of drainage of the Tertiary epoch.” At the middle spring of the Cimarron a very instructive and interesting section is exposed, in which we again see the base of the Tertiary series. On Pawnee Fork, the tufaccous limestones and conglomerate which I have described rest upon the coarse ferruginous Lower Cretaceous sandstone. Here we find them underlain by soft yellow or red sandstone, of which the place is considerably lower than that last mentioned. In other localities further west we shall see that these Tertiary beds rest first on Lower Cretaceous sandstone, then on trap, again upon the Middle Cretaceous limestones and shales, and, finally, upon the red calcareous’ sandstones of the Trias. The elements composing the section of the middle spring of the Cimarron are indicated in the fol- lowing table: a 28 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE Section of strata at Middle Spring of Cimarron. Feet. 1. Coarse gravel from disintegrated conglomerate ......-...--.-...--2.----- 6 2. Spongy, tufaceous limestone, cream-colored..............---------- Sebati RS GB. OL GALE ¥ Wilke CHORIN COLOR OU et henernans satires hing OPO hci Suet: vs 4. Laminated, tufaceous limestone, cream-colored. ................----------- 6 5. Massive, tufaceous limestone, upper part hardest, containing balls of red and Pipe BOGE ce ee my na eee ee Nea 8 SE 50) 6. Cream-colored tufa, similar to No. 5, but softer.....-...2.222-2..--2...-- 19 7. Hard, foliated tufaceous limestone. -... -- aoe eR Se 5 Bie.) cow OT Meme, BOT, MaNsIVG BADEShOHe <0. es ek ow 40) The cream-colored tufaceous limestones of the above section are the equivalents of the lower tufaceous limestone of the Arkansas, and, though containing no fossils, are doubtless Tertiary. The balls of scoria which they include, though not positive evidence of the fact, may be regarded as an indication that voleanie action was going on somewhere in this vicinity during their deposition. If this was the case, the scoria must have been derived from the vicinity of the Raton Mountains, where voleanic eruptions were taking place, geologically speaking, about that time. Scoria is very frequently contained in the Tertiary strata near the Rocky Mount- ains; a fact which has suggested the thought that the water from which these tufaceous limestones were deposited may, in some instances, have been heated, and that this is one reason why they contain so few fossils. The sandstone which forms the base of the section, at the Middle Spring of the Cimarron, will be soon noticed, in connection with the group to which it belongs; but _ its place in the series, as has been stated, is below the Lower Cretaceous sandstone. - We have here abundant evidence of the entire unconformability of the Tertiary beds with those on which they rest, and that they were deposited in basins scooped out of the underlying rocks, doubtless by subaerial action, precisely as similar valleys or basins are forming at the present day. A few miles further westward the Lower Cretaceous, and even some portions of the Middle Cretaceous strata, are found in place, and there is no question but that they once stretched over all the adjacent country, and occupied the place since held by the Tertiary beds, but, by the long action of eroding agents, they had been entirely re- moved or deeply excavated before the Tertiary limestones began to be deposited; and that subsequently this latter series filled up and obliterated all traces of that ancient denudation. . During the present epoch the process of erosion has again begun, and the valleys of the Cimarron and Arkansas are being for the second time excavated. CROSSING OF CIMARRON TO ENCHANTED SPRING. JURASSIC ? ROCKS. At the crossing of the Cimarron, and for some miles west of that’ point, the Ter- tiary strata have been entirely removed; the bottom of. the basin exposed and deeply eroded. It is here composed of a series of strata of which the sandstone, lying at the base of the cliff at the Middle Spring, forms a part. This series consists of a number TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 29 of alternations of strata which are quite different in color, texture, and composition. ‘They are, as far as my observation extended, destitute of fossils, and it is therefore im- possible to fix accurately their place in the geological scale. It will be seen from the section given below that they underlie the coarse red and yellow sandstones of Lower Cretaceous age, which have been so frequently referred to in the preceding pages. They are, however, in lithological characters quite unlike the strata which are een- erally found immediately beneath the Lower Cretaceous sandstones of New Mexico. The position they hold is apparently the same with-that of the Jurassic rocks discov- ered by Dr. Hayden in the Black Hills. It is possible, therefore, and perhaps prob- able, that they are of the same age. It will, however, be necessary to wait the detection of fossils in the group before its place in the series can be more than conjec- tured. The section taken from the summits of the hills at Enebanted Spring, down the side of the valley toward the Cimarron, as far as the rocks were exposed, is as follows: 1. Gray, yellow, or brown coarse sand-rock, the equivalent of that of the Smoky Hills, here containing obscure impressions of large dicotyledonous leaves, 70 feet. 2. Thin layers of laminated brown sandstones, with very smooth surfaces, z0 feet. 3. ILlard light-blue or dove-colored limestone in thin layers, Jurassic? 50 feet. 4. Slope covered, about 30 feet. 5. Yellow or reddish quartzose sandstone, 2 feet. 6. Red shale, 5 feet. 7. Yellow calcareous sandstone or silicious limestone, with ferruginous concretions, 20 feet. 8. Brecciated conglomerate, 5 feet. 9. Blood-red shale, 25 feet. 10. Yellow calcareous sandstone, similar to No. 7, 8 feet. 11. Blood-red shale, with one or two narrow bands of green, 10 feet. : ‘12. Red and yellow argillaceous limestone, somewhat concretionary, often laminated, sun-cracked and ripple-marked, pierced by vertical cavities from one to two inches in diameter, to base, 8 feet. 3 Much of the coarse sand-rock, No. 1 of the section, is precisely like that contain- ing the fossil plants of Blackbird Hill, Nebraska; being partly dark-brown and ferru- ginous, and partly gray, quartz-like, and intensely hard. Other portions of the mass are yellow and softer, in this respect resembling the general aspect of this rock in New Mexico. ‘The limestone, No. 3 of the section, is the most interesting feature of the group, and the one to which we must look for fossils that shall determine its age. It is a fine- grained, homogeneous rock, such as I have nowhere seen near the same geological horizon in the Southwest. With the exception of the limestone, I should have no great difficulty in supposing that this group represented the strata which in New Mexico im- mediately underlie the Lower Cretaceous sandstones; but the limestone is entirely for- eign to the geology of those portions of New Mexico which I have examined. I am strongly inclined to believe that it is a member of the series not represented further to the south and west, and I shall be surprised if it does not yield to future explorers well- marked Jurassic fossils. 30 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE ENCHANTED SPRING TO COTTONWOOD SPRING. TERTIARY AND LOWER CRETACEOUS STRATA. At Enchanted Spring the Lower Cretaceous sandstones form a line of bold bluffs, which border the excavated valley of the Cimarron. From this point up to the base of the mountains the surface has nothing of the monotony of the plains below, but is greatly varied, and the scenery is frequently impressive, occasionally grand. With the exception, however, of the volcanic outlayers of the Raton Mountains, there are few evidences of the action of violent disturbing causes, and the variety which the scenery presents is due almost entirely to the erosion of nearly horizontal strata by the drainage from the Rocky Mountains. Here the traveler, journeying to New Mexico, obtains his first view of the peculiar and impressive scenery so characteristic of nearly all portions of the great central plateau of the continent. Here he first hears the word mesa, and sees it embodied in the long lines of table-lands which fill the horizon and stretch away in perspective, like the walls of Cyclopean ¢ities. I have, in a former report, described somewhat in detail the phenomena of erosion which are presented by the high table-land bordering the Rocky Mountains. It is, therefore, only necessary for me to say in this connection that the views then advanced in reference to the origin of the great natural features of that region, its mesas and caions, have been fully con- firmed by subsequent observation, and that-there éan Be no question that they are to be reearded simply as phenomena of surface erosion, of which they are the orandest examples known. The geology of the region lying between Enchanted Spring and Cottonwood Spring is similar throughout. The rocky basis of the country is formed by the Lower Cretaceous sandstone, covered here and there with patches of white tufaceous Tertiary limestone. ‘These Tertiary beds were, perhaps, once continuous, but now form only a relatively thin covering over the divides between the streams, being wholly removed from the valleys and low lands. As on the Arkansas, they are without fossils as far as observed, and were deposited nearly horizontally over the irregular surface of the ‘underlying sandstone. A section of the strata at Cedar Spring is as follows: (a.) Tertiary. 1. White, chalky, tufaceous limestone, with hard, gray, compact bands. - - -- 15 feet, 2. Cream-colored, spongy, tufaceous limestone, (similar to that on the Arkan- sistant elon) seen sore eer So. ee a Ciccagte ai rene: 2 40 feet. (b.) Cretaceous. Yellow fine-grained sandstone, with obscure impressions of fucoids- - - - - - - 6 feet, 2. Light blue or white shale, with many obscure vegetable impressions, about 4 feet. 3. Yellow sandstone, soft and rather coarse, in thin (often rippled-marked) layers, containing impressions of dicotyledonous leaves, resembling those Ck, SULLA AIR NOT ONS an id <5 I ER Se RMS thin’. = = «8 SE es 5 feet. TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. OL 4. Bluish shale, containing impressions of leaves, and a thin bed of lignite-... 4 feet. c y > a 7 - 5 ° i . > . 2 5. Yellow soft sandstone, with impressions of dicotyledonous leaves, apparently identical with some of those from Smoky Hill, to base of section... .-- - 50 feet. From Cedar Spring to MeNee’s Creek the road passes over a high prairie under- lain by Tertiary limestones. At MeNee’s Creck the Tertiary rocks are cut through and the Cretaceous series freely opened. No fossils were found here, but the rock is eener- ally similar to that at Cedar Spring. At Cottonwood Spring the surface rock is Tertiary tufaceous limestone, which is cut through by the stream, and its line of junction with the underlying Cretaceous rocks exposed. The sandstone is here considerably disturbed and metamorphosed apparently by the upheaval of the erupted mass of the ‘ Rabbit- ear Buttes,” which are near by. Upon the uneven surface of the sandstone the Tertiary strata are laid down nearly or quite horizontally, and have evidently been but little disturbed since their deposition. In the upper part of the Cretaceous sandstone near the spring I found many vegetable impressions, generally trunks of trees and fragments of wood, and also some leaves. One of these is apparently a Saliz, and perhaps identical with S. Meekii. There are also others, which are similar to the leaves found at Smoky Hill. ‘Che metamorphosis of the Cretaceous strata is shown not only in the peroxidation of the iron which they contain, but an associated clay-shale is rendered nearly as white and as hard as porcelain; the contained iron being segregated in thin vein-like bands. COTTONWOOD SPRING TO RED FORK UF CANADIAN, TRAP, TERTIARY, AND CRETACEOUS ROCKS. The interval indicated by the above heading includes a portion of the voleanic district adjacent to the Raton Mountains, to which I have before alluded. Rabbit-ear, Round Mound, Wagon Mound, &e., form part of a group of trap buttes, which are scattered over the prairie for a long distance east of the mountains. ‘They are in some. cases entirely isolated, and seem to mark minor vents, where a portion of the molten matter contained in some vast subterranean reservoir found exit. Othexs are connected by sheets of trap, and in some instances are but portions of a volcanic flood, separated from their connections by subsequent erosions. Toward the mountains the erupted material more completely covers the country, and forms extensive mesas, or high table- lands, which have been deeply eut by the canons of the streams once flowing over but now through them. They have also been left in strong relief by the cutting down of the country bordering them on the east. . ~ In many places the sheets of trap are covered by Tertiary tufa, which has been deposited quietly and uniformly over their surfaces, and is evidently much more recent than they. This Tertiary bed is here not of great thickness, and perhaps represents only the extreme upper portion of the series described in the preceding pages. Wherever the trap is cut through in the stream-beds it is found resting on the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, which are in such cases somewhat metamorphosed ; being vitrified, or at least hardened; the iron being peroxidized, and more or less segregated in bands or veins. In other localities the Lower Cretaceous sandstone is covered by . 32 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE the Tertiary tufa; but, over large areas, it is itself the surface rock. At Whetstone Creek this group is exposed in the banks of the stream, and shows a great number of alternations of very fine-grained, laminated sandstone, with more argillaceous bands. These strata contain fossil plants in large numbers, which would undoubtedly well reward collectors who could have more time to devote to the locality than was at my command. Several of the species noticed there are apparently different from those obtained from outcrops of this formation from other localities, but a narrow leaf, per- haps a Salix, seems to be identical with one obtained at Smoky Hill, Pawnee Fork, &c, A remarkable fissure has been opened by voleanic force in the rocks containing these planfs. It is about four and a half feet wide following the main jointings of the sandstones, which here run nearly east and west. No trap fills the fissure, but it is evident that it was once a kind of flue through which a vast amount of heat escaped from below. Its sides are blackened, glazed, and blistered, and the sandstone which forms its immediate walls is considerably metamorphosed ; to the depth of an inch it is vitrified; back of this it is converted into a hard, blue, sonorous rock, resembling a compact basalt. The effect of heat is noticeable in the changed-condition of the sand- stone several fect from the sides of the fissure, but at a distance of twenty feet the rock again exhibits its normal appearance. VALLEY OF THE CANADIAN. MIDDLE CRETACEOUS STRATA. The valley of the Red Fork of the Canadian is a broad eroded trough, excavated almost entirely in the great group of limestones and calcareous shales which rest upon the sandstone group I have so frequently referred to as the Lower Cretaceous saud- stones.. The overlying calcareous mass, which contains immense numbers of Cre- taceous fossils, is apparently the equivalent of Nos. 2, 3, and 4 of Meek and Hayden’s Nebraska section. In my former notes on the geology of this region, I designated this series as Upper Cretaceous, to distinguish it from the Lower Cretaceous sandstone group. At that time I had seen no evidence of the existence in New Mexico of higher members of the Cretaceous formation. In our recent explorations of the San Juan country, where this series is very largely developed, I found the equivalents of the strata under con- sideration covered by soft sandstones and marls, which I regarded as also members of the great Cretaceous formation. This latter group is, therefore, more properly Upper Cretaceous, and the calcareous strata of the Canadian and their equivalents will be designated in the subsequent portions of this report as Middle Cretaceous. In describing the Cretaceous strata of the country bordering the San Juan, I shall have occasion to return to the subject of the classification of the rocks belonging to this series, as developed in New Mexico, and, as far as practicable, establish a paral- lelism between them and those of the Upper Missouri, as described in the Nebraska section of Messrs. Meek and Hayden. I may here say, however, that the division of the Cretaceous rocks of New Mexico into three great groups—Upper, Middle, and Lower—will be found to be the most convenient, if not the only one practicable TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 33 Wherever I have observed them these different divisions are marked by obvious and distinctive lithological characters, and the fossils contained by each group are usually recognizable at a glance. Those of the Lower sandstone group being generally angi- ospermous leaves; those of the Middle group, marine shells and the remains of fishes; those of the Upper division, as far as yet observed, being leaves and trunks of trees different from those found below. It is true, that in Southeastern New Mexico and Texas there is very little sandy matter in any of the Cretaceous rocks, while in the Rocky Mountains the upper and lower arenaceous divisions are greatly developed, and the limestones have nearly disappeared from the middle division. This latter group is, however, distinctly marked even there; consisting of calcareous shales, with thin bands of limestone and beds of lignite, interstratified with layers, of greater or less thickness, of fine-grained sandstones, usually containing considerable lime. On the banks of the Canadian, from 800 to 1,000 feet of the Middle Cretaceous strata all exposed. The section from the summit of the hills at the “Breaks of Red River,” down to the bed of the stream; is as follows: ; 1. Rolled gravel, composed of fragments of porphyry, trap, Paleozoic limestone, &e., drift from the Rocky Mountains. 2. Light-blue compact limestone, on exposure cracking into flattish chips or “spalls,” containing Inoceramus problematicus, Gryphaea Pitcheri, &e. 3. Ferruginous, laminated, sandy limestone, with rounded concretions, one to five feet in diameter, of compact blue limestone, much cracked, and fissures filled with crystallized carbonate of lime. This rock 4s a great store-house of fossils, of which, perhaps, the most abundant is a remarkably neat little Ostrea, hitherto undescribed, which I have called Ostrea elegantula; one of the most common and widely distributed Middle Cretaceous fossils of New Mexico. With this are Inoceramus fragilis, H. & M., I. Crispti?, Ammonites percarinatus, Shark’s teeth (Lamna and Oxyrhina), &e. The surfaces of the layers of this stratum are covered with small Ostreas (O. congeata), and fragments of Inoceramus, which resemble fish-scales; thickness 80 feet. 4. Light-blue compact limestone in thin beds, weathering white, similar to No. 2; about 30 feet exposed. From this point to the bed of the river, some 700 to 800 feet, the cliffs are composed of blue compact limestone in thin beds, alternating with dark- blue and brownish bituminous calcareous shales, which underlie the preceding mem- bers of the section, and rest upon the Lower Cretaceous sandstones. In every part of these lower limestones Jnoceramus problematicus is exceedingly abundant. They also contain large numbers of Gryphea Pitcheri, of which remarkably large and fine speci- mens were collected a short distance east of the crossing. All the foregoing calcareous beds rest upon the sandstones of Lower Creta- ceous age to which I have so frequently referred. ‘These sandstones form the bed of the Canadian at the crossing and the walls of the canon below, and here exhibit nearly the same lithological characters as at many localities where they are exposed farther eastward. They seem to be somewhat disturbed and hardened, and it is possible that a slight unconformability may be discovered between them and the overlying rocks- This is a mere suspicion, however, which I could not verify or disprove in the time at SSF o4 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE my command. The divide between the valleys of the Red Fork and its tributary, the Oc: ité, as well as the western bank of the Ocat¢, is formed of the Middle Cretaceous limestones and marl, enumerated in the preceding section. The structure of the picturesque table-lands from which these streams issue I had no opportunity of determining, as they lie several miles north of the road, but I could see that they are in part covered by a thick layer of trap, to which their nearly hori- zontal surfaces and precipitous sides are doubtless due. VALLEY OF THE CANADIAN TO LAS VEGAS. As far westward as Burgwin’s Spring, numerous localities, usually resting upon trap, which is the prevailing surface-rock, and yatches of Tertiary tufa appear in | which caps the picturesque mesas bordering the road on either side. Here, as farther vast, Numerous trap buttes stud the prairies, and there are several lines of trap hills which run off toward the south as diverging spurs from the Raton Mountains. Near Dragoon Spring, by a long and painful ascent we reached the summit of a trap mesa, apparently the continuation of the table-lands bordering the U pper Canadian. The underlying sedimentary rocks are here concealed by the débris of their trappean cover- ing. ] oD oD ] oD DUP C! : COMIN. CLS RT ene, Os Se Ree oes chia aes. G ray clay bse te ee cel Oe a UR AE 5 SE, ye Si aime ete iray limestone, with DProductus semireticulatus, P. nodosus, &e..-.-------- Pipe Ane Vee Hee a Nest abies OY Led ewes oss oad Ferruginous foliated limestone, with Orthisina umbraculum, Spirifer cameratus, A aps TARR are ASR aE Bis i PE oe Ss Reddish-gray, compact limestone, with Spirifer cameratus, S. lineatus, Produc- tus nodosus, P. Rogersi, P. scabriculus, P. semireticulatus, Athyris subtilita, oat aria ee ee NEO 5 cot dans oO ae > Se MOE ee ee 8 44 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE ‘ Feet RESO MN SS Ble cp oon wc oN RR OR Pee tom RE es hE sc ee ee 2 Gi eS HERERO eee Soe ks CS, ae ree CS oa yo. Sag Rea 3%s 3 Be RT erates sig te Sik a Bole OE ERIE a te EAI a SW ks woe Ee. gO 7 28. Dark-red or coarse gray sandstone, with obscure impressions of Lepidodendra GEE RAPMOT ie is Gast 3s 6 ky 4a ee Oe ees Pe eS a ee See ON, 8 29. Gray and red shales, or indurated clays.......--:....-..- SAR Salers Tore 5 30. Dark-red ferruginous limestones, with nodules of red chert........-.--.-- 15 31. Grayish-blue o1 reddish silicious limestone, rather massive, without fossils.. 30 32. Compact crinoidal limestone, reddish or gray in places, made up of bodies and stems of crinoids, the latter often large; also containing fish-teeth, spines of Archeocidaris and great numbers of Productus nodosus, P. Rogersi, Athyris subtilita, Spier CUMOPas, Goce. . vibes ws. sy ------- - nee 25 33. Dark-red ferruginous sandstone, sometimes a conglomerate and quartzose, in other localities soft and coarse... ..- . - Soe Gere fas Pe oe oe eee as ss 10 34. Red, blue, green, and yellow, and mottled indurated clay, with nodules of seepory Cliots Abe DOUGMLes 622 2. t Sate ct Me ee ers eee 18 35. Cherty coneretionary limestone, gray, yellow, blue, red, and contains a few Srttatr Win enn UOC-NDGCIOS. < .\5. a peru Geeeiae or owe st da es. ou 35 36. Foliated silicious limestone, gray, yellow, or mottled, with dendritic man- ganese in the joints; no fossils; like the last, frequently a handsome marble... 20 37. Red massive granite to base. In the preceding section bed No. 1 is certainly not amember of the Carboniferous series, but is probably the base of the Triassic formation. It is, however,. less coherent and of lighter color than any of the lower members of this group as they appear when exposed near Santa Fé. It is conformable to the rocks below, while the 'Tertiaries of that vicmity are, I believe, always unconformable. It will be seen that in this section well-known Carboniferous fossils are found within less than 50 feet of the granite. I, therefore, the older rocks are represented here, they are restricted to a portion of that limited space. Without positive evidence to the contrary, I must regard all the rocks of the section, except bed No. 1, as Carboniferous, and as the equivalents of the upper division of that great formation; that is, the Coal-Measures. As before remarked, in the walls of the canon of the Great Colorado is a limestone mass, lying beneath the Coal- Measure limestones, which I have supposed might be the Mountain limestone; but of whatever age, that rock and the strata which underlie it are here wholly wanting. There are doubtless some geologists who will regard the granitic base of the preceding section as a metamorphosed condition of the sedimentary rocks which are here due beneath the Carboniferous strata; but this view of the case seems to me wholly unten- able. ‘The massive, unstratified, red granite of the Santa '¢é Mountains presents char- acters, both in its physical structure and chemical composition, which could never be assumed in any possible phase of metamorphism by the older Paleozoic rocks of the Colorado Canon. Much the greater part of their mass is calcareous, and only the extreme upper and lower portions are red. Again, the lower members of the series of sedimentary strata at Santa Fé are but slightly, if at all, metamorphosed. Even if those which rest on the granite in the preceding section be supposed to be changed from TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 45 their original condition, in the sueceeding section, taken in a locality less than two miles distant, the lowest sedimentary rock is not in the least affected by the proximity of the granite. These facts conclusively show, as it seems to me, that the granite was already consolidated before the sedimentary rocks were deposited upon it, and that the reason why the strata underlying the Carboniferous rocks in the Colorado basin are here wanting is _ simply this: that the surface of the granite upon which they should have been deposited was here too high to receive them. It will be noticed that in the foregoing section of the Coal-Measure strata there are no beds of coal, and yet the preponderance of mechanical over organic sediments, that is, of shales and sandstones over limestones, and especially the presence of coarse sandstones and conglomerates, give to this section a character strongly contrasting with that of the strata of the same age in Kansas—a character unquestionably due to the closer and more constant proximity to high land. Section of the Carboniferous rocks in the gorge of Santa Fé River. No. 2% :- Feet. Inches. 1. Conipact.d line desis oo ee ee a igh tg oe 10 40TH] PJ AGLES: DIG Wie ed, MIO RS AE ce Ra neg Le Wk a oe OS Sue oN Ty 12 3. Pinkish shelly limestone, a mass of fossils, containing Athyris Roysii, A. bovidens, A. subtilita, Spirifer cameratus, S. lineatus, Productus nodosus, P. semireticulatus, P. scabriculus, P. Rogersi, Orthisina umbra- culum, Orthis Michilini (?), Rhynchonella uta, Platyceras, sp., Nautilus, Sly ROG oy Divisio ab wea ES a in Eo MP ite thee Reasor ss ho ky cress 5 B.. PO WIL DIAGs BRO BTORMIGW BUA Ons hynttenes emacs bate bee tae sew ok 4 Oy ACLY AOAC MIO fee CYNE He wt ome ty REN Cates Sy SPSS = aes 6 6. Goad ine. s.'s Po Ethene we wp epee Rd a Eo note. se cue AEE 4 7... SAP OSH. GAC : DUGG BIRD ii cete, Ae ate ane de old pa 10 8. Crinoidal limestone, equivalent of No. 32 of preceding section; very fos- SUTOTOUS . wi 25.6 8 here 4's wobigtna at erie ape Meno Ge me ae Saks oi 4 9. Bituminous and argillageous shalocicnuc us few. sn Gk ee ev. SS. 13 10. Crinoidal limestone, equivalent of No. 32 of preceding section... ..-- - 6 11. Gray and blue shale, with bands of bituminous shale and coaly maiter, with Calamites and leaves of. Cordaiigsssa iD ies Vio Le ee ee Ve 5 EZ POMPOUS SAAGSLONG 2 TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. ot Still fuither south, on and below the parallel of 34°, an almost unbroken succes- sion of mountains stretch from the Sierra Blanca, the Sacramento, and Guadalupe Mountains, all the way across to the Colorado. Of these, those lying near the Rio Grande, both east and west, have apparently a structure similar to that of the ranges of the Rocky Mountains further north. West of these an immense area is occupied by the Mogollon Sierras, as yet almost unknown. Still further west are the ranges cross- ing the Lower Colorado, and belonging to the system of the Sierra Nevada. What is the relative space occupied by these different mountain groups; whether they repre- sent one, two, or three distinct systems; and if distinct, what are their relative ages, are questions which future observations alone can answer. In regard to the precise age of the Rocky Mountains, as before stated, we want more extended and minute observations before we can determine whether the elevation of all parts of the system was synchronous, and whether, if so, it is to be referred to a single epoch, or was continued through several geological periods. There are, how- ever, some facts which lead me to conclude that the elevation of the different ranges now referred to this system was not in all cases synchronous, and that they are the result of the action of forces operating through all geological time, from the earliest Paleozoic period to the present. Still further—as a corollary to the last proposition— the Rocky Mountain region has suffered several alternations of elevation and depression. Much of the evidence on this subject is given in my report to Lieutenant Ives, page —. It is briefly as follows: 1. The Paleozoic strata, several thousand feet in thickness, which underlie the Car- boniferous formation in the great canon of the Colorado, are wholly wanting on the sides and summits of the mountain ranges which bound the Colorado basin, both on the east and west—Cerbat and Aquarius ranges, Santa Fé and Nacimiento Mountains, Sierras La Plata, Cariso, &e. On these ranges the Carboniferous strata, very little metamor- phosed, rest directly upon the granite; the natural inference from these facts being that the mountains enumerated above existed, at least in embryo, previous to the deposi- tion of the older Paleozoic rocks, and were elevated above the ocean from which the lower strata of the Colorado section were deposited. 2. The explorations of Dr. Hayden have demonstrated that the granitic axis of the Black Hills is flanked by the Potsdam sandstone, now exposed by upheaval, and overlaid by the Carboniferous and more recent strata; the evidence being conclusive that this portion of the Rocky Mountain system was beneath the waters of the primeval ocean. : 3 In the fresh lava-streams of the Raton Mountains, the Valles, in the Mal- pais near Fort Stanton, and about San Mateo, as well as in various other portions of the Rocky Mountain region, we have evidence that most violent volcanic action has been in operation distinctly within the present epoch, having been continued from the Middle Tertiary period, if not dating back still further. 4, As stated in the descriptions of the Arkansas Tertiary basin and the geology of the region about Cottonwood Spring, (Chapter I,) we have satisfactory proof that, previous to the deposition of the Lower Cretaceous strata, the central portion of the continent was above the ocean level, and that the Cretaceous sediments were mainly 8 SF g 58 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE deposited during a period in which a subsidence of several thousand fect took place. This is shown by the immense extent of the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, a littoral formation, the immediate débris of the land, containing only and abundantly the remains of land-plants; these sandstones being overlaid by a great thickness of marine strata. 5. At the close of the Cretaceous age a period of elevation began, which continued to the Drift epoch, when the continent was again depressed, to be again elevated, though not having as yet reached its former level. The facts upon which these conclusions are based are briefly these: (a.) The Tertiary beds of the country bordering the Rocky Mountains on the east are mainly _ fresh-water deposits. (b.) They were precipitated upon surfaces which had suffered enormous subaerial erosion, filling troughs and basins excavated in the Cretaceous or Gypsum formations; the Tertiary strata being unconformable. (¢.) The investigations of Messrs. Meek and Hayden have shown that in these Tertiary basins the lower beds sometimes contain estuary shells, the upper exclusively fresh-water species. 6. We may fairly infer from the facts given above that the great elevatory move- ment, which gave to the Rocky Mountain region the character it now exhibits, took place between the close of the Cretaceous period and that of the Miocene ‘Tertiary. To this general rule, however, we cannot yet say that there are not marked exceptions. MOGOLLON MOUNTAINS. Perhaps no important mountain chains within the territory of the United States are so little known as these. No geologist has ever visited the region which they occupy, and I am not aware that any record’ has been made of the observations of the Army officers or others who have traversed it. In his synopsis of the mountains of North America, M. Marcou has referred the Mogollon ranges to a distinct system, and has assigned to them a trend very different from those of the mountains nearest them on either side. This classification has been, however, advanced on grounds wholly inswflicient, and may be considered as purely imaginary. As I have stated in my former report, my own convictions are that future explorations will show that the ranges of the Mogollon and Sierra Blanca have a north and south or northwest and southeast trend, and are to be grouped with the Rocky Mountain ranges on the east, or those of the Sierra Nevada system on the west. My reasons for this belief are, that verbal statements of parties who have visited these mountains indicate their structure to be essentially that of the Rocky Mountains; i. é., axes of red or grayish granite, flanked by Carboniferous limestones with their characteristic fossils; some of which, such as Productus semireticulatus, have been brought in. In addition to this, it may be said that ranges of mountains, with an east and west trend, would bea strange anomaly in the topography of New Mexico. Such a thing I have not yet met with in any portion of the central or western parts of our continent which I have visited. MOUNTAINS OF THE LOWER COLORADO. These ranges, which form the southwestern boundary of the table-lands, seem but continuations of the metalliferous chains of Sonora, passing with a northwest trend up into Nevada and California, there blending with the Sierra Nevada. In trend TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 59 and structure they seem to accord with that system, and in the present state of our knowledge would naturally be included in it. In composition they generally exhibit a marked difference from the ranges of the Rocky Mountain system. They are _ composed in a much greater degree of purely eruptive rocks, whole ranges being formed of trachytes, tufas, porphyries, amygdaloids, &c., in endless variety. Their granites are generally white or gray. Metamorphic rocks are abundant among them, consisting of gneiss, mica-slate, clay-slate, taleose-slate, and limestone, the latter highly meta- morphosed and crystalline, forming white, blue, gray, and clouded marbles; so far as observed, wholly destitute of fossils. They are richin valuable minerals; large quanti- ties of gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron having already been discovered in them. The Black Mountains may be regarded as the most northerly, as well as the most important, of these ranges which cross the Colorado. This chain crosses below the mouth of the Virgen, and thence seems to trend away northwesterly toward Washoe. It may be anticipated that the stores of metallic wealth so characteristic of these ranges will be discovered in the unexplored region into which they are prolonged after crossing the Colorado. The question of the relative -age of the Colorado Mountains, and hence of the ‘Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountains, is one of great geological interest, and yet one on which at present we have almost no light. The prevailing mineralogical characters of the two systems are, as has been said, considerably alike, and yet it remains to be proven that in their southern prolongations they do not blend in one. Ihave suspected that the metamorphic limestone of the Sierra Nevada is of Car- boniferous age, and that it holds a position corresponding to that of the Rocky Moun- tains. It is, however, so generally metamorphosed that all traces of fossils have disap- peared. By reference to my report to Lieutenant Williamson, (P. R. R. Rep., vol. VI, Geol. Rep., p. 27,) it will be seen that near Mount Shasta a Paleozoic limestone of great thickness is exposed, which is highly fosilliferous. By Dr. Trask, who has exam- ined it, itis regarded as Carboniferous. A further examination of this interesting locality may, perhaps, give us the information which we so much desire. CERBAT MOUNTAINS. These mountains, with their associates, the Aquarius and Aztec ranges, are so fully described in my first report on the geology of the Colorado country, that nothing need now be said of them further than what is necessary to give them their proper place in the wider view which later observations permit me to give of the Colo- rado Basin; of this basin these mountains form the western margin. Against their sides the older Paleozoic rocks seem to abut, and on their flanks the Carboniferous rocks rest, just as on the slopes of the Rocky Mountains, three hundred miles eastward. In trend and composition these mountains seem to share the characters of the Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountain systems. Their granites are gray, and the sedi- mentary rocks rest upon them nearly unchanged; the metamorphic slates and limestones of the Colorado ranges not having been discovered. Their trend is slightly west of ° north, nearly parallel with that of the Sierra Madre, their vis-a-vis. 60 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FS WASATCH MOUNTAINS. At present it is impossible to say what is the extent, or very definitely what is the structure of the great mountain groups bordering the Great Salt Lake and extending thence southward toward the Colorado. Of these the more conspicuous ranges, lying east and south of the lake, have been designated by the name of Wasatch. From the explorations of Captains Gunnison, Whipple, and Fremont, we learn that a series of mountain ranges extend south and west from these to and be- yond the Vegas de Santa Clara. . In this region they form the northwestern boundary of the Colorado plateau, holding the same relation to that great area of stratified rocks as do the Aquarius and Aztec ranges farther south. Their flanks are covered with Carboniferous limestones, turned up and broken through by their granitic axis. How broad the mountain belt may be which exhibits this character we do not yet definitely know. We are informed, however, that there are several distinct ranges: having a trend north and south, or a little east of north by west of south. Going westward these ranges merge insensibly in the “lost mountains” of the Great Basin, some of which retain, in a greater or less degree, the structure of the Wasatch ranges, while others are composed mainly of trappean rocks, having the composition and ragged, picturesque outlines of the cockscomb sierras of the Lower Colorado. All this portion of the continent is thickly set with mountain groups or ranges, forming a laby- rinth whose mysteries years of patient effort will hardly suffice to penetrate and reveal. This region has been recently traversed by Captain Simpson, United States Topograph- ical Engineers, with interesting though as yet unpublished results. Among the collec- tions made by Mr. H. Engelman, the geologist of the party, are a few Devonian fos- sils, such as Atrypa reticularis and several species of Spirifera, described by Mr. Meek (Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila. J uly, 1860), the first instance where fossils of this age have been found so far west. Up to the present time we have no well-marked geological criteria by which to distinguish the Wasatch ranges from those of the Rocky Mountains, and it is possible that future explorations will show that the Colorado Basin is completely encircled by the widely separated chains of the same vast mountain system. bys SAN FRANCISCO GROUP. Of the San Francisco Mountain and its associates, Bill Williams, Mount Ken- drick, and Mount Sitgreaves, a detailed description is given in the seventh chap- ter of my report to Lieutenant Ives, United States Topographical Engineers. By reference to that description and the accompanying geological map it will be seen that these mountains are great volcanic foci, the eruptions from which have coy- ered all the adjacent country with lava. The precise date of the commencement of the volcanic action in this region cannot, perhaps, be accurately determined, but it is evi- dent that the greater portion of the erupted material was thrown out, geologically speak- ing, at a comparatively recent, epoch, at a time when the topographical features of that vicinity were in all essential particulars the same as now; when the high plateau from which these mountains rise was already a plateau elevated several thousand feet above TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 61 the sea. Its surface-rock was then Carboniferous limestone, from which the overlying formations had been entirely removed, and in which lines of drainage had been exca- vated, having the general direction and character of the present stream-beds. There is evidence that the cones of the mountains themselves, and the floods of lava which surround them, have been formed by a series of eruptions, and that the latest of these paroxysms occurred within a few years. As I have previously remarked, the eruption of the material composing and sur- rounding these voleanoes has produced comparatively little disturbance of the sedi- mentary rocks upon which they rest. We have as yet no evidence that they form part of any well-marked line of upheaval, nor is there any obvious connection between these mountains and any of the chains which surround them, or with any of the other voleanie vents which are scattered over the great central plateau. My attention was particularly directed to this point by Baron Humboldt, through Mr. Mollhausen, before visiting New Mexico; and I was particularly requested to examine the country be- tween the San Francisco Mountain and San Mateo, to detect, if possible, some connect- ing link, Such as lines of upheaval or of volcanic vents. I was, however, able to dis- cover no proof whatever of any relationship between the two other than the perfect correspondence which their local phenomena present. It is true that east of the Little “Colorado, just south of the Moqui Villages, is a series of buttes composed of compar- atively recent volcanic matter, which made its exit from a number of vents in that vicinity; but the sedimentary rocks are scarcely at all disturbed, even in the intervals between these trap buttes, and the country on either side is entirely free from dikes, faults, or displacements of any kind which would indicate the action of disturbing forces along the line connecting San Francisco Mountain and San Mateo. s It is a somewhat remarkable fact that voleanic vents similar to those under con- sideration, though of less magnitude, are scattered over the entire area of the central table-lands, from Mexico far up ‘into the British possessions. About many of these the evidence abounds that their fires have only been quite recently extinguished, and yet in none, so far as we know, are they now burning. The cause of this simultaneous cessation of an action, lately so wide-spread and vigorous, becomes an interesting sub- ject of inquiry. SAN MATEO (MOUNT TAYLOR). » This is the second in importance of the great extinct voleanoes of the central por- tion of our continent which have come under my observation. It has an altitude of between 11,000 to 12,000 feet, perhaps a thousand feet less than that of the San Fran- cisco Mountain. It stands quite alone, and has no apparent connection with any other peak or range. Like most isolated mountains, it is composed of erupted material, and seems to have been wholly formed by the accumulation of ejected matter around a voleanic vent. As has been remarked of the San Francisco Mountain, this voleano has been in vigorous action at a very recent period. The lava-streams of its latest eruptions present precisely the same appearance as those of Vesuvius, when but just cooled; and it is difficult to believe that they have been exposed to the action of the atmosphere even for so much as a hundred years. 62 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE The existence of great volcanos, like San Francisco Mountain and San Mateo, in full blast, many hundred miles from the sea, is a powerful argument against the theory which restricts all voleanos to the vicinity of large bodies of water. SIERRA TUCANE (NAVAJO MOUNTAIN). This mountain is situated near the junction of the San Juan and Colorado Rivers, and was, therefore, not reached by either of the expeditions with which I have been connected. As seen from a distance, it seems to be a mountain of very considerable elevation, either solitary or associated with a few subordinate peaks, forming a group of limited extent. What its structure is we can, of course, only con- jecture, but from its isolated character we may be quite sure that it is composed of erupted material; and it should probably be grouped with the North Side Mountains, the Sierra Abajo, Sierra La Sal, La Late, &e., which are scattered like islands over the surface of the plateau. The description of these latter groups, as well as that of the Rocky Mountain ranges lying on or near our trail, will be given in the succeeding chapters devoted to the geology of our route. THE COLORADO PLATEAU. In the preceding pages, where I have referred to the area under consideration, Ihave used indiscriminately the terms plateaw and basin; the one having reference to the prevailing character of the surface, the other to the geological structure. Both terms are sufficiently appropriate; for, when viewed as a whole, it has a distinctly plateau character, formed by a series of table-lands, which rise step by step from the Carboniferous limestone to the summit of the Cretaceous formation, and from the broad valleys of erosion, in which its cations are scored, to the summits of the divides between its draining streams. In the geological portion of the report of the Colorado Expedition will be found both a general and a detailed description of the topography and structure of the central and southern portions of the Colorado Plateau. The observations made on our recent explorations enable me to complete, in a great degree, the sketch, much of which was then only given in outline; to make important additions to the informa- tion then gained of both the geographical and vertical extension of the sedimentary strata which are there represented, and, by satisfactory proofs, confirm views before only conjectural. , Adding to the facts then given those more recently observed, we find that the generalities of the structure of the Colorado plateau or basin are as follows : On both the eastern and western sides, Carboniferous strata, the equivalents of the Coal-Measures in age, are seen resting on the granitic axes of the bounding mountains, dipping at first rapidly, then more gradually, toward the center of the basin or trough. On the eastern side the Carboniferous strata are exposed only in a narrow belt along the mountain-sides, almost immediately passing beneath the Triassic and Cretaceous strata, which there have an aggregate thickness of 5,000 feet or more. On the western side, on the contrary, the first easterly dip of the Carboniferous rocks is succeeded by a gentle rise toward the east; a broad arch being formed, of which the TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 63 eastern slope reaches as far as the Little Colorado.” Up to this point the more recent formations have been removed from the Carboniferous, and this occupies a broad belt of country, indicated in the geological map, accompanying the report of Lieuten- ant Ives. As we go northward this Carboniferous belt rapidly narrows, and on the flanks of the Wasatch Mountains it exhibits simply a line of outcrop, as on the opposite ranges of the Rocky Mountains. Along the Little Colorado the Carbon:ferous lime- stones dip beneath the overlying rocks, and are lost to view in all the interval between that point and the Rocky Mountains. On the east side of the Little Colorado, its valley is bounded by a mesa composed of the Triassic marls and red sandstones, which form a distinct step in the table-lands, reaching eastward for many miles, with a still greater extension north and south. Above this, on the east and north, the Lower Creta- ceous rocks form a third plateau, along its margin cut into detached mesas and messil- las by valleys of excavation. Farther east and north these mesas combine, and the Cretaceous rocks in an unbroken sheet underlie the whole country. The broad eroded valleys of the San Juan, of Grand and Green Rivers, and the Upper Colorado generally, exhibit precisely the same structure as that of the valley of the Little Colorado. The Carboniferous limestones are exposed in the canons of these streams, while the broader valleys through which they flow are excavated in the ‘red Triassic rocks; large surfaces of which are exposed on the banks of all these streams. The process of erosion has there, as on the Little Colorado, everywhere left the most surprising monuments of its action; domes, castles, walls, spires, which by their vivid colors and fantastic outlines attract the attention and excite the wonder of every explorer who beholds them. Above the Triassic rocks the Lower Cretaceous sandstones—massive beds of comparatively resistent material—cap mesas which stretch away to a great distance both east and west of the Colorado. They form the floor of the great sage-plain lying between the Sierra La Plata and Sierra Abajo. South of the Sierra La Plata they are covered by the Middle and Upper Cretaceous beds form- ing the Mesa Verde—the third great step in the table-lands above the Carboniferous— which on the east connects with the plateau bordering Catton Largo and extending to the base of the Nacimiento Mountain. High table-lands are visible west of the Colorado, where it is formed by the junction of Grand and Green Rivers, evidently corresponding to the Cretaceous mesas just mentioned, but whether they correspond precisely to it in geological structure can only be determined by further explorations, The country bordering the Upper Grand and Green Rivers, as described by Dr. Schiel (Pacific R. R. Rep., vol. 2), by Mr. Egloffstein and Colonel Henderson, who have kindly communicated to me their observations, has essentially the same structure with that bordering the Little Colorado and the San Juan. The Triassic rocks are freely exposed in the valleys of erosion, while table-lands floored with Cretaceous strata occupy the greater portion of the intervals between the mountain chains. This margin of the Colorado basin is very irregular, and its outline has not been accurately traced. Between the Little Colorado and the San Juan the country is almost exclusively occupied by Cretaceous rocks. The Lower Cretaceous sandstones are here largely developed, containing numerous impressions of leaves of land-plants and heavy beds 64 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE of lignite, which have attracted the attention of all the exploring parties who have entered this region, and have been mentioned in their notes as beds of bituminous coal. The higher table-lands between the San Juan and Little Colorado have an altitude of about 8,000 feet, and are composed of the upper members of the Cretaceous forma- tion, corresponding in all respects with the Mesa Verde north of the San Juan, with which they were at one time undoubtedly continuous; the immense void which now separates them having been removed by erosion. This high table-land—the “white mesa” of my former report—seems to reach westwardly to and beyond the Great Colorado, but its western boundaries have not been accurately determined. Where this mesa is cut by the Colorado that stream is supposed to have an elevation of less than 2,000 feet above the level of the sea. The awfully grand precipices—over a mile in height—which overhang it, I have described in my former report on the geology of this region. On the eastern margin of the Colorado plateau, especially in that part of it which borders Cation Largo, and forms the western base of the Nacimiento Mountain, a series of variegated gypsiferous strata overlie the Upper Cretaceous beds of the Mesa Verde, and occupy a considerable superficial area. These strata seem to be conform- able to the Cretaceous rocks below, and may form the summit of this series, or, as I have suggested in another chapter, they may be Tertiary. If so, they belong to an older division of the Tertiary series than the chalky beds of Santa Fé and the plains, and represent a group not elsewhere seen in any part of the Colorado plateau. What- ever their age, these strata form the geological summit of the plateau series of sediments. ‘ \ 4 yA A 1 TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 65 Faia ae ee eV GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE FROM SANTA FE TO THE SIERRA LA. PLATA. STRUCTURE OF THE VALLEY OF THE Rio GRANDE—THE VALLEY OF THE CHAMA—ABIQUIU- COPPER MINES—FossiL PLANTS—RuINS oF Los CANONES—ABIQUIU PEAK—PLATEAU COUNTRY BORDERING THE Uprprr OCnamMA—ARRroyo SECO—TRIASSIO MARLS—NAVAJO SPRING—CRETACEOUS SANDSTONES AND PLATEAU—BANKS OF TIE NUTRIA—MIDDLE OnrF- TACEOUS BEDS—VADA DEL CHAMA—SECTION OF VALLEY OF THE CHAMA—HIGH MESA OF UPPER CRETACEOUS ROCKS—LAGUNA DE LOS CAVALLOS—DIVIDE BETWEEN THE WATERS OF THE RIO GRANDE AND SAN JUAN—GENERAL VIEW OF THE STRUCTURE OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY—MOUNTAIN CHAINS—BELT OF FOOT-HILLS—TABLE LANDS— Rio NAVAJO—CERRO DEL NAVAJO—SIERRA DEL NAVAJO—RiTo BLANCO—THE PAGOSA— SIERRA SAN JUAN AND ASSOCIATED MOUNTAIN RANGES—ORETACEOUS ROCKS AND FOS- SILS—THE PrepRA PARADA—Rio PIEDRA—BROKEN MESA—VIEW FROM HIGH DIVIDE— R10 DE LOS PrNOoS—SIERRA DE LOS Prnos—RIo FLORIDO—VALLEY OF THE ANIMAS— RUINS ON THE ANIMAS—OROSSING OF THE ANIMAS—STRUCTURE OF THE MOUNTAINS DRAINED BY THE ANIMAS—RIO DE LA PLATA—DELIGHTFUL CAMP—CRETACEOUS ROCKS AND FOSSILS —SIERRA DE LA PLATA—METALLIFEROUS VEINS OF THE SIERRA DE LA PLATA. VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. The structure of the Rio Grande Valley seems to be essentially the same throughout its entire extent—that is, as far as it is really a valley, viz., from its northern extremity to Kl Paso. Throughout all this interval it is a synclinal trough, lying between imperfectly parallel ranges of mountains. At El Paso the river breaks through its eastern wall, and, thence to its mouth, follows a devious course determined by the local obstacles which it meets, no longer modified by the meridional topography of the Rocky Mountain system. Opposite and above Santa Fé the trough in which the river flows is bounded on the east by the lofty ranges of the Santa I°é Mountains and their northern representatives, which extend in an unbroken series to the Parks; on the west, immediately opposite Santa Fé, by the bold and picturesque chains of the Valles. These mountains have but a limited extent, falling off suddenly on the north, and leaving a low pass, which is traversed by the Chama. North of the Chama they are succeeded by the mountains of Conejos, which connect with the wide-spread and tangled maze of high sierras, to which I have referred in the ISF 66 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE preceding chapter; mountains somewhat vaguely designated on different maps as Sierras San Juan, Sahwatch, &c. By the Mexican mountaineers, all the mountain mass, drained by the western headwaters of the Rio Grande, is known under the name of the Sierra El Wanico. On both sides of the valley the Carboniferous strata may be seen exposed in numerous localities, dipping rapidly inward toward the river; resting conformably upon these, the red beds of the Triassic series, here soft, sandy, and extensively eroded. Over a large part of the valley surface the drift from the adjacent mountains is spread so thickly that the rocky substrata are wholly concealed. It is possible, therefore, that in some localities the Cretaceous rocks hold their relative position there, as elsewhere, upon the ‘Trias. I cannot say, however, that I have ever seen the Cretaceous strata in the immediate valley of the Rio Grande, except on the slopes of the Organ Mount- ains, above El Paso. Between Santa Fé and the mouth of the Chama the country is much broken and generally sterile. Rounded gravel hills, dotted with scrubby trees of cedar and pinon, and eroded buttes of pale red, pulverulent sandstone, everywhere meet the eye and vive character to the scenery. Among these, wind threads of fertility, following the courses of the streams, marked by lines of cottonwood, by meadows of coarse grass, and, in some localities, by fields of grain. On the west side of the river the scenery is bolder, the surface more broken and unproductive; the character which it exhibits hay- ing been given, for the most part, by floods of lava poured out from the Valles, now remaining in sheets and masses of black and ragged trap. Reaching up toward the mountains are many valleys of erosion in which the parti-colored strata of the Triassic series are visible, even at a distance of many miles. VALLEY OF THE CHAMA. The course of the Chama, as before stated, lies in a natural gap in the mountains bordering the Rio Grande on the west. Below Abiquiu its valley has essentially the character of that of the Rio Grande, of which it may be indeed said to form a part. On the southwest it is bounded by the slopes and the trap mesas of the Valles, and on the north by the gentler declivities of the mountains of Conejos. At Abiquiu these ‘boundaries closely approach each other, and the river seems to have burst through the low axis of elevation connecting the Valles with the northern mountains. On the south side the trap mesas come flush up to the stream, and, just below the village, overhang it in a cliff 800 feet in height. On the north side are high and broken hills of erupted rock, formed by a series of dikes crossing each other at different angles; the principal one having a trend nearly north and south, from which diverge one with a northeast and southwest trend, and another running a little north of west by south of east. These minor dikes are also much broken and forked. The gate through which the river passes this axis of elevation is exceedingly bold and picturesque ; its beauty being enhanced by a high and ragged butte of rock, which stands disconnected from either side, partially blocking up the gap. It should also be mentioned that a similar line of displacement crosses the river below Abiquiu, in the form of a sharp interrupted ridge, known throughout that region as the Cuchillo or TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 67 Knife. By both these axes the sedimentary rocks are much disturbed and metamor- phosed. On the north side of the river at Abiquiu, just beyond the ancient ruins which crown the bluff, is a little valley cut from soft white and blue conglomerate, sand- stones, and iol which, though destitute of fossils, I have suspected to be of Tertiary age. ‘This deposit is entirely local, and seems to have filled a basin or valley, as the fresh-water Tertiaries of the interior of the continent so frequently do. The strata have a thickness of perhaps 150 feet, and have been worn by erosion into most strik- ing imitations of spires, churches, pyramids, monumental columns, and castles. At Jemez, a few miles south of Abiquiu, the picturesque buttes, which stand isolated in the open valley, are composed of precisely similar materials. These latter are evidently remnants of a mass which once filled the valley about them, nearly all of which has been removed by erosion. They are to be classed with the other patches of fresh-water Tertiary in the vicinity of Santa Fé; local deposits made after all the great topographical features of the surrounding country had received nearly their present forms. As the most perfect parallelism seems to exist between the castellated buttes of Abiquiu and Jemez, I am disposed to refer them to the same epoch. Above Abiquiu the Chama flows through a country quite different from that which I have deseribed. West of the Valles, the Nacimiento Mountain terminates abruptly, leaving a large area of open country between tt and the mountains which may be supposed to be its representative on the north. This area, topographically and geo- logically, is but a portion of the great Colorado plateau; there being nothing but a low line of elevation—the prolongation of the Nacimiento axis, by which the strata are not often broken through—to separate it from the table-lands bordering Canon Largo and the Upper San Juan. After leaving the mountains in which it takes its rise, the valley of the Chama is, therefore, as far as Abiquiu, a valley of erosion, and is bordered on either side by the cut edges of the different steps of the plateau. Im- mediately above Abiquiu, the sides of the valley are composed of the Triassic forma- tion. A few miles further west, the Lower Cretaceous sandstones cap the table-lands and floor a plain, the precise counterpart, except in extent, of the great sage-plain west of the Sierra dela Plata. At the Vada del Chama, still higher up the stream, we reach the base of a wall, more than a thousand feet in height, composed of the Middle and Upper Cretaceous strata, corresponding, and woldins: connecting, with the table-land bordering Cation Largo, of which a full description will be given hereafter. ABIQUIU COPPER MINES. In a former chapter | have referred to the deposits of copper found in the sedi- mentary strata in various portions of New Mexico, and have enumerated several locali- ties—San Miguel, Jemez, &e.—where this copper exists in considerable abundance, aud where mines were formerly extensively worked to obtain it. The old mines of Abiquiu belong to this category. ‘To the residents of the vicinity they are objects of much interest and some wonder, and having had our curiosity excited by their glow- ing accounts of them, while our party was at Abiquiu we paid them a visit, under the guidance of Mr. Albert H. Péeiffer, resident Indian agent, whose intimate knowledge Capt JN Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate I. ¥ et we & SRY EMS Ia) xe paees E > 2 - - Ra a ae oe » ‘ ‘ ee 1h re ABIQUIU PEAK LO Orem WESTE 68 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE of the country, joined to his unextinguishable enthusiasm and good nature, made him an invaluable companion in our explorations during the time that he accompanied us, - As these deposits of copper are matters of some geological interest, I take the liberty of transcribing from my journal the description of our visit to the “Cobre” of Abiquiu. “July 17.—Started this morning, with Mr. Pfeiffer and several members of our party, for the copper mines, situated some nine miles north of Abiquiu. As we rose from the valley, we were gratified by the most charming view we had yet beheld in New Mexico. The alluvial bottom-lands, covered with groves of vivid green cotton- woods, alternating with fields of wheat and corn, interspersed among which were the white-washed adobe houses of the residents, each with its walled corral, its garden, and its clumps of apricot-trees, formed a scene of fertility and rural beauty rare enough in a country whose sterility is proverbial. Above the valley rose the frowning battle- ments of the trap mesas, which sweep around the foot of the Valles, and the rough and rocky slopes stretching up to their lofty and picturesque summits. “In another direction were above, the peculiar outline of Abiquiu Peak, and below, the rocky gate from which the river issues. “Leaving the Chama, we passed up the eroded valley of an intermittent tributary. This is excavated in the Triassic series, and its sides exhibit bands of brilliant color, red, orange, blue, white, &c., as vivid as could be drawn from an artist's color-box. In some localities the red sandstones—usually soft and fine-grained—are replaced by coarse conglomerates or masses of cemented bowlders, generally of large size. ‘These bowlders are composed of quartzose and syenitic rock, hard and smoothly rounded. They indicate stronger currents and more violence of action, during the deposition of the Trias, than in any other locality where I have observed it; also, closer approach to the source of the material of which these beds are composed. Ascending the arroyo, toward its head, we found the strata rising rapidly toward the north, and cut through so as to expose the saliferous sandstones—the lowest member of the Trias—in sections of at least 200 feet. This group here consists of thick-bedded, chocolate sandstones, like those of New Jersey and the Connecticut Valley, except that here and there they showed large patches of white, interstratified with green and brown shales. Here, as on the Little Colorado, this formation contains much saline matter, as shown by num- erous salt springs and a white saline efflorescence on the surfaces of the rock itself. ‘The Cobre, is situated in the face of the cliffs, bordering an eroded valley drained into ithe Chama, below Abiquiu. These cliffs are composed at base of the saliferous sand- ‘stones and ‘interstratified marls, some 250 fect in thickness; above these, blood-red -marls and calcareous sandstones, 200 fect thick; the whole crowned by coarse yellow ‘sandstones, having a thickness of about 150 feet; a section corresponding to that on the Pecos, but exhibiting a much less thickness of the red marls and calcareous sand- 9 oO stones. The copper occurs in the base of the yellow sandstones just above the marls. ‘To reach the most important of the ancient mines of this vicinity, we climbed up the face of the southern cliffs of the valley, over the red sandstones and marls, till we reached the coarse yellow sandstones which overlie them. Here we found an entrance, five by six feet in dimensions, which led to a series of. galleries, having a combined length of perhaps a hundred yards. The work exhibits considerable skill in the use TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 69 of tools, and a familiarity with the business of mining. The roof is carefully braced where weak, and old galleries are closed by well-laid walls of masonry. From the style in which the excavation is done, and from the perfect preservation of the wood- work, | attribute this and other similar mines in this region to the earlier Spanish explorers. The rock which contains the ore is very coarse, frequently a conglomerate, with bands of light-gray clay. The copper is distributed with considerable uniformity through a layer four or five feet in thickness. It occurs in the form of sulphide of copper and iron, (erubescite,) and green carbonate, replacing trunks of trees and frag- ments of wood, and in concretions and botryoidal masses scattered among the pebbles of quartz, or as minute points of carbonate specking the shales. It has evidently been deposited from solution, investing and replacing the wood precisely as the sulphide of iron is prone to do. “The most interesting incident of our visit to this copper-mine was the discovery in the shale roof-stone of thousands of in{pressions of plants, of which abundant speci- mens were procured. ‘They are mostly cycadaceous—Otazamites and Pterozamites— witha few conifers (Brachyphyllumand Voltzia?). The species are probably new, and will not afford the means of determining with precision the age of the stratum contain- ing them, but the discovery is of great geological interest, as showing the wide distri- bution of the cycadaceous flora of the Triassic and Jurassic epochs, and gives addi- tional confirmation of the generalization of Brongniart, who pe ee this epoch in y the botanical history of the world as the reign af Gymnosperms.”* On the 19th of July we left Abiquiu for the ascent of the Shee Peak. My notes of the trip are as follows: — “Left camp at 7 a.m. The train, mioving on to the Arroyo Seco, passed up the Chama to a point just above Abiquiu, and then turned to the left and ascended, by a long and difficult road, the high mesa which overlooks the valley on the south side. T ee mesa is here full a oudind feet above the Chama, and is connected with that of ~which the broken edge forms a bold headland below the town, known as Abiquiu Cliff. The upper part of this mesa is composed of trap, below which are exposed sev- eral hundred feet of the variegated marls (Trias), and the white tufaccous Tertiary beds, all quite soft, and, in many places on both sides of the Chama, very fantastically eroded. ‘The mesa over which we passed extended, with a nearly level surface, several miles toward the peak. It is covered with groves of pifion, separated by prairies uniformly coated with grama grass, now very short and dry. Arriving at the western border of this mesa, we looked directly down into the narrow but fertile valley in which is nestled the little Mexican village of Los Cationes. Descending by a steep and tortuous path, ve left our mules at the bottom and climbed a detached mesilla which stands at the junction of the two branches of the valley, and on which is situated an ancient and ruined pueblo, once a stone-built town of considerable size. Even its name is now lost, and of the inhabitants whose busy hands constructed its walls, and whose | feet in suc- : Desotigdings of thesd planta will be found 1 in i another chapter, where i i is s show n a vt the most conspicuous specics (Otozamites Macombii) is the same with one found in the Triassic strata of Los Bronces, Sonora, where it occurs in com- pany with Pecopleris Stutgardtensis, Teniopteris magnifolia, and other well-known Triassic plants of Virginia, North Caro- lina, and Europe. We have, therefore, in theso plants evidence of the Triassic age of all the variegated gypsiferous rocks of northern New Mexico ; for the Lower Cretaceous sandstones immediately overlie the plant-bed of the Cobre. Capt. J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate I. NEAR VADO Pee CHAMA, UPPER CRETAGHO US MES A. 70 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE cessive generations wore so deeply the threshold of its entrance, no tradition now re- mains. ‘The mesa on which it stands is some 500 feet in height, is composed of a cel- lular trachyte, and the top is only to be reached by a narrow and difficult path. The houses are now in ruins, but were once numerous, and all built of dressed stone. Within the town we noticed a dozen or more estuffas excavated from the solid rock. They aré circular in form, 18-20 feet in diameter by 10 or 12 in depth. They all ex- hibited evidence of once having been covered with wooden superstructures. _ In most of them, four excavations on opposite sides would seem to have been used as the sockets for the insertion of wooden posts, and in one is a niche cut in the side, with a chimney leading from it; probably the place where the sacred fire was kept perpetually burning. The style of architecture in which this town was built, as well as the estugfas, show that its inhabitants belonged to the race of Pueblo Indians; a race now nearly extinct, but once occupying every habitable portion of New Mexico. ‘Spending the night at Los Cationes, we started this morning very early for the ascent of the peak. This we mostly accomplished on mule-back; passing over a suc- cession of hills composed of the variegated marls—containing beds of gypsum of great thickness—covered witha forest of piNonand cedar. When we had arrived within 500 feet of the summit, we left our mules and commenced the ascent on foot. This part of the mountain is very steep, and the upper 200 feet is a perpendicular wall of trap-rock. The summit we found to form a cuchillo, a narrow, knife-like ridge, bounded on every side by vertical precipices. Its height above the sea is about 9,000 feet. The extreme summit is covered with pion, and the slope with yellow pine, Douglass spruce, the western balsam-fir, and the quaking-asp. The view from the summit was particularly fine, sweeping a circle of fifty miles radius, except toward the Valles, which are very near, and fill the southeastern horizon. On the east we looked down the valley of the Chama, across that of the Rio Grande, and our-view in this direction was bounded by the high and unbroken ranges of the Santa Fé Mountains. Northeast the Taos Mount- ains and the Spanish Peaks were plainly visible. On,the north the foreground was filled with the low and near mountains of Conejos, beyond which, north of west, we could just discern the picturesque summits of the Sierra San Juan, and Sierra de la Plata. In the northwest we overlooked the course of the Chama for many miles, and the comparatively level and open country through which it flows. Almost beneath us was the junction of the Puerco and Chama, in a broad valley of excavation, as red as blood, from the exposed surfaces of the eroded marls; farther west, higher table-lands, composed of the yellow and blue rocks of the Lower and Middle Cretaceous. ‘Descending from the mountain, we regained the trail of our party at Arroyo Seco, There we were surrounded by a series of buttes of most varied and fantastic forms, worked out by erosion from the marl series of the Trias. ‘Their colors are exceed- ingly brilliant, crimson and orange being the most conspicuous. ‘The vivid green and level valley is framed by these colored cliffs, forming a most beautiful and impressive picture.” At Arroyo Seco the trail we were following leaves the river and enters a canon, which cuts the plateau bordering the valley from base to summit. Most of the section exposed in its walls is composed of the Triassic marls, which includes beds of gypsum TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 71 in some places 150 feet thick. Above the marls are the yellow sandstones—the base of the Cretaceous—which floor the plateau on either side. Pursuing a northerly direction, we gradually rose through the Trias, and at Navajo Springs reached the base of the Cretaceous sandstones. Continuing our ascent, two or three miles farther on we reached the base of the canon, and emerged upon the plateau of which I have before spoken. This plateau extends northward to the Vada del Chama, where it begins to be broken by the foot-hills of the mountains. Westward it reaches to and beyond the source of the Chama, and is broken through and locally disturbed by the upheaval] of the Gallinas Mountain, which seems to be situated on the Nacimiento axis. Over this platean the Lower Cretaceous sandstones form the general substratum, but here and there are rounded knolls, composed of the dark shales and blue shaly limestones, the lower part of the middle division of the Cretaceous formation, here, as at a thou- sand other points on our route, characterized by the presence of Gryphea Pitcheri, Ino- ceramus problematicus, Ostra congesta, &c. The more level portions of the plateau are covered with sage bushes, with here and there more moist and fertile spots, sustaining grasses and annual plants, conspicuous among which is the wild sunflower (//elian- thus). he knolls are usually covered with groves of pifion. As a whole, this pla- teau country has little agricultural value, although there are portions of it which will afford good grazing for stock. Between the Cebolla and Nutria, the Middle Cretaceous rocks occupy a consider- able area, and attain a thickness of perhaps a hundred feet. ‘They present precisely the same lithological characters and fossils as do their equivalents on the banks of the Canadian and Ocaté, east of the Rocky Mountains, viz., thin layers of hard dark- blue or ferruginotis limestone alternating with layers of bitumino-calcareous shales. At the Vada del Chama we again encamped on the banks of this stream in a very beautiful region, one of considerable fertility and of great geological interest. On the east side of the river are high and broken hills—the foot-hills of the mountains— covered with forests of splendid pine timber. These hills are mainly composed of the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, having a thickness of nearly 300 feet. Here, as farther west, they contain beds of lignite, and the impressions of dicotyledonous leaves. ‘They are considerably broken up, but have a general and rapid dip toward the southwest. On the opposite side of the valley is a mesa, with bold, nearly perpendicular faces over 1,000 feet high, composed of the Middle and Upper Cretaceous rocks lying nearly horizontal. Between these elevated banks lies the excavated valley of the river, with its narrow but fertile bottom-lands, its winding stream of pure cold water, its groves of cottonwood, and its grassy meadows spangled with flowers. The structure of the valley will be more readily comprehended from the accompanying section than from any detailed description I could give of it. Transverse section of the valley of the Chama at the Vada. Feet. 1. Yellowish brown sandstone (Lower Cretaceous) ............-.--------- 125 2. Brown and black shales, often dark olive, with beds of lignite.........-- 50 Se Rommel Nine tae. oS lf Oe PR ee ee ee 70 72 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE 4. Black shales with bands of light-dove-colored limestone. ....--..---...-- 150 The upper of these shale-beds is greenish-brown, with bands of foliated sandy limestone, containing immense numbers of fragmentary or entire fossils. These are principally Inoceramus problematicus, I. fragilis, Ostrea congesta, Baculites anceps, Scaphites Warreni, S. laviformis, €c. 5. Bluish-black shales, with concretions and bands of limestone containing a large undulated Inoceramus, the broken fragments of which are thickly SRT eEE LDEF ate COMIOIREe. Soot Cor ce SS OS OE ae ee teres eae % 1, 000 The lithological characters of this division are nearly the same through- out, but the limestone bands and fossils are nearly restricted to the lower portion. - The layers of limestone are from 6 to 12 inches in thickness, quite pure and compact, blue in color, but weathering reddish yellow, and breaking on exposure in vertical prisms, like starch. 6. A light dove-colored sandy limestone or calcareous sandstone, weathering yellow, massive toward the top, foliated below, without PoNbuis he Ps eee 200 7. This, the eap-rock of the high mesa, is a higher member of the Cretaceous series than has before been met with in New Mexico. Our subsequent observations showed it to be the base of the third great division of this formation as developed on the Colorado Plateau. 8. Gravel hills, valley drift. At the Laguna de los Cavallos. we reached the summit of the divide between the waters of the Pacific and the Atlantic, at the height of 7,600 feet. No conspicuous elevation marks the summit, but the strata are somewhat broken by a line of displace- ment, apparently a continuation of the Nacimiento axis. The country about the Taguna may be taken as a type, both as regards its general aspects and its geological structure, of all that bordering our route while we were skirting the bases of the mountain ranges, the drainage of which supplies the flow of the 5an Juan River and its tributaries. This region includes three topographical belts or districts in which the physical features exhibit the most striking contrasts, viz., the mountains, the foot-hills, and the table-lands. The mountainous district includes a large number of lofty chains, having a north and south trend and the general characteristics of the Rocky Mountain system, connected by thousands of interlocking spurs, or separated by nar- row valleys, traversed by clear, cold, and rapid streams. These ranges terminate southward en échelon, and, when viewed from a distance, present the appearance of a continuous sierra, having a northwest and southeast trend. The outlines of these mountains are bold and picturesque; their highest summits having an altitude of 12,000 or 13,000 feet, entirely bare of vegetation, and showing, here and _ there, patches of perpetual snow; their slopes covered with forests of spruce and fir above, of yellow pine below; many of their gorges set with thickets of serub-oak and quak- ing-asp. Along the base of the mountains stretches a belt of foot-hills, a region of which the surface is broken into rounded or abrupt hills, from 100 to 1,000 feet in height, eenerally composed of sedimentary rocks, very much disturbed, often pitched about TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 13 in the greatest confusion. These hills are covered with noble forests of yellow pine, with open intervals where grama and bunch grass grow with great luxuriance. Between the hills are charming mountain valleys, carpeted with fine grass, in the summer season pertect gardens of flowers, through which meander cool and sparkling mountain streams, fringed with thickets of willow, or shaded by groves of the narrow-leaved cottonwood. Through this delightful region our route lay, going from Santa Fé toward the Colorado. On our return we traversed the third of the districts I have enumerated, that of the table-lands. Where unaffected by the disturbing forces which have elevated the mountain, chains, the sedimentary rocks lie nearly horizontal, forming a wide plateau deeply canoned by the streams which take their rise in the mountains, ; Although the generalities of the country of the foot-hills, with which we at present have to do, may be given in few words, perhaps a more detailed deseription will be needed to convey all the information that may be sought of a region destined to become the home of many of our countrymen, and, therefore, of considerable economical and political importance. For the purpose of satisfying the want I have anticipated, I shall, from time to time, copy from my journal suéh detailed descriptions of local scenery or structure as may seem best fitted to complete the picture I have already sketched. From my notes made at our camp on the Rio Navajo, sixteen miles west of Laguna de los Cavallos, I take the following extracts : “From the Laguna our route westward passed through a beautiful and fertile country, the trail winding among hills composed of Upper Cretaceous rocks, covered with trees of yellow pine, often attaining large size. On the south is a high mesa, with picturesque broken edges, a continuation of that east of the Laguna bordering the valley of the Chama. On the north is a similar wall in which the strata are more highly inclined. Beyond this is another valley or series of valleys which border the bases of the mountains connected on the east with the Tierra Maria, a charming spot at the forks of the Chama, where the Mexicans had formerly a settlement, now abandoned on account of the depredations of the Indians. The drainage toward the west begins a mile west of the Laguna, and the Rio Navajo is the first of the tributaries of the San Juan. This is asinall but rapid stream which rises in the Sierra del Navajo, of which the southern extremity is but a few miles distant from our camp. ‘This range apparently forms the divide north of the Laguna, the drainage of its eastern slope falling into the Chama, its western forming the Rio Navajo. The material washed down from the Sierra del Navajo is mostly eruptive in character, trap, trachyte, and porphyry, and the outlines of this extremity of the range show that it is mainly composed of rocks of this character. Just above our camp the river issues from a magnificent wooded gorge, which it has cut through the chain of Cretaceous hills that I have mentioned as bordering our route of to-day on the right. A little below our camp is an isolated mesa, an outlier of the great table-lands which spread out to the south. This mesa, called by our guide the Cerro del Navajo, has a superficial area of perhaps 100 acres, a relative altitude of 1,500 or 1,600 feet, and an absolute altitude of about 8,500 feet. It is-entirely composed of the Middle and Upper Cretaceous rocks, lying nearly hori- zontal, and stands a stupendous monument of the erosion which this region has suffered. 10 SF 74 ‘ EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE * * * As we approached Rito Blanco we entered a narrow ravine or canon cut in the Upper Cretaceous rocks—yellow sandstones and gray shales---which tele - deepens till, at its junction with the Rito, its bounding hills have an altitude of least 1,000 feet. | “This canon is very picturesque; the sides covered with yellow pine, Douglas’ and Menzies’ spruces, the latter now for the first time seen in New Mexico. It grows here very beautifully,,somewhat more spreading than in Oregon, the foliage very dense and silvered. Among the evergreens are slopes on which grow thickets of wild cherry, serviceberry, and gooseberry, all now in fruit. In the bottom are bushes of black currant, also fruiting, all these berries are called manzinitas—little apples—by the Mexicans,.but the serviceberry is particularly distinguished by this name by those who would be exact. The California manzinita has better claim to the name, and is a very different plant. The cliffs of Rito Blanco are frequently precipitous, but so widely separated as to leave a pretty valley between. They are wholly composed of Cretaceous strata, mainly of the middle division, with a capping of the yellow sand- stones and marls of the upper member of the formation.” : Pagosa, July 28—“ Left Rito Blanco early this morning, passing through a country similar to that of yesterday. At 9 o'clock, came down a pretty ravine to the San Juan, here 30 yards wide, 3 feet deep, very rapid. At this point it enters.a canon, cut in the Upper Cretaceous sandstone, which has a strong lécal dip toward the north. Above this canon is a delightful valley, running up to the foot-hills of the San Juan Mountains, which are here very beautiful in form, and lofty, as patches of snaw are visible upon them. The river San Juan here issues from the narrow valley between the Sierra San Juan and Sierra del Navajo, where it takes its rise, and this is apparently the first interval of level land through which it flows. In the upper part of this valley is the Pagosa, one of the most remarkable hot springs on the continent, well known, even famous, among the Indian tribes, but, up to the time of our visit, never having been seen by the whites. It can hardly be doubted that in future years it will become a celebrated place of resort, both for those who shall reside in the sur- rounding country, and for wonder-hunting health-seeking travelers from other lands. There is scarcely a more beautiful place on the face of the earth. The valley is three miles long by one broad; a verdant meadow of the ‘finest grass, thickly strewed with flowers, through which winds the bright and rapid river, ganigined by clumps of willows, and most graceful groups of cotton-wood. On every side are hills covered with gigantic pines or the slender Oregon spruces, and on the north, far above these, rise the forest-clad slopes and craggy crests of two great Sierras. The Pagosa is at the edge of this prairie. As the river leaves the great wooded gorge embraced between the San Juan and Navajo Mountains, and comes out into this beautiful amphitheater, it sweeps round in a curve, inclosing some 20 acres. From all parts of this space, which is evenly turfed over, the surface rises very gently to the center. Here is a great basin, oval in form, 40 by 50 feet in diameter, its walls of white rock, of unfathomable depth, in which the deep-blue water seethes and surges as in a boil- ing caldron, giving off a column of vapor which in damp weather is visible for miles, The water, though hot, is not at the boiling-point, and the ebullition is produced by TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 7) the escape of gases, which are generated in enormous quantities. The temperature at the side of the basin is 140°; in the center, perhaps something higher. The gases with which the water is charged consist, in part at least, of carbonic acid and sulphu- retted hydrogen ; the former giving it an effervescence, like that of soda-water, and the sane pungent taste. The sulphur is also perceptible by taste and smell; a strong sul- phurous odor, which is distinguishable at some distance, being exhaled from the spring. When cooled, the water has a strong mineral taste, though rather agreeable than other- wise.” It was freely drank by all our party while in this vicinity with no unpleasant effects, but, on the contrary, a decided sharpening of the appetite. No analysis has yet been made of it, but it is evident that the large amount of saline matter it contains is of somewhat complex composition, and such as gives it a character unlike that of the water of any other mineral spring with which I am familiar. ‘To make a rude comparison, the water of the Pagosa might be imperfectly imitated by mixing Blue Lick and Congress water’ and heating the compound to 140°. The flow of water from the Pagosa is very largé, and it finds its way into the San Juan by several subter- terranean channels. The deposit from it is very copious, generally snow-white, but in many places bright pink or green in color. It floats in erusts which revolve upon the surface of the basin I have described, and which envelop the bodies of water-beetles, frogs and snakes that have incautiously plunged into it. When first precipitated this deposit consists, in a great degree, of chloride of sodium, but mingled with this are silicates—probably of soda, lime, and potassa—which form a hard and indestructible white rock. In the lapse of ages an immense amount of this material has been thrown out from this spring. All the low, broad mound, which I have men- tioned as surrounding the basin, is composed of it, and over an area of ten to twenty acres it has a thickness of at least twenty feet. This is shown on the banks of the San Juan, which is for some distance bordered by walls of this material, having an altitude of twelve to fifteen feet. : The geology of all this region is Cretaceous. The upper members of the series are exposed in all the hills surrounding the Pagosa; and it is evident its waters issue from the bitumino-calcareous shales forming its middle division. These shales are of marine origin, have a thickness of over 1,000 feet, contain many animal remains, and are highly charged with salts and sulphur; in all these respects resembling the Hamil- ton group of the New York geologists. I think it is true that mineral springs more frequently flow from rocks of this character than any other, and I have been led to suppose that the water of such springs derives its peculiar character immediately from the rock from which it emanates. It is certain that hot water, forced through these strata, would dissolve and carry off many of their constituent elements, and would become the agent by which an extensive range of chemical combinations would take place. In the case of the Pagosa, the hot water is doubtless derived from a great depth, yet it is entirely possible that the gases and salts which it contains are all derived from the superficial strata through which it passes. THE SIERRA SAN JUAN. This name has been applied by geographers to several distinet mountain ranges which really exist in this portion of the continent; or, more generally, to Capl .J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate Ill. LA PIEDRA PARADA. BOGSING WEST. 76 IXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE a great imaginary chain, which was assigned an inordinate extent and a trend altogether hypothetical and abnormal. It is to be hoped that one result of our expedition will be to bring something like order out of the confusion of ideas which has prevailed in regard to the intricate mountain ranges of this region. As has been before intimated, these ranges, though numerous, exhibit no exceptional features, and are comparatively simple and harmonious in structure and trend; while it is true that the great mountain belt north of the San Juan River, with its higher chains, their thou- sand interlocking spurs and narrow valleys, form a labyrinth whose extent and intri- cacy will at present defy all attempts at detailed topographical analysis. It is equally true that a general topographical character has been given to all of this region by a comparatively few lines of lofty summits, which have nearly a north and south trend, and seem to form an integral portion of the Rocky Mountain system. This great truth may be learned ata glance by the drainage of this country; this all flows through streams which have approximately a north and south direction. On the south, the tributaries of the San Juan, the. Navajo, the Blanco, the Upper San Juan, the Piedra, the Pinos, the Florido, the Animas, the La Plata, and the Mancos, all flow southward, and most of them issue from the north and south valleys, lymg between the parallel ‘ranges to which I have so frequently referred. On the north side of this mountain-belt similar topographical features present themselves. The tributaries of Grand River, which sweep the bases of the northern extremities of these ranges, almost without exception issue from valleys which have approximately a north and south direction; hence, it is plainly apparent that one great fundamental idea pervades the topography of all this region, and that one great foree has given shape to all its principal topo- eraphical features. , Most of the prominent ranges visible from our route have received from the Indians and Mexicans distinct names, by which they are well known to those who know the country; for example, the chain north of the Laguna, of which the southern extremity is drained by the Chama and Rio Navajo, is called the Sierra del Rio Navajo or the Sierra del Navajo. From between the spurs of this sierra flows the Rito Blanco (Little White River), so called from the milky color given to its waters by the Cretaceous shales. From the valley separating the upper part of this sierra from the Sierra San Juan, which does not extend so far south, issues that branch of the San Juan River which retains its name. West of the San Juan Mountains, as we shall see as we pro- gress with our geological narrative, the Rio de los Pinos issues from the valley between the Sierra San Juan and the Sierra de los Pinos; ‘beyond the Sierra de los Pinos, the great valley of the Animas; then the Sierra de la Plata, west and north of which lies the Sierra San Miguel; west and south of the latter chain, the broad expanse of the Colorado Plateau. From this sketch, it will be seen that the great east and west chains of the Sierra San Juan and Sierra de la Plata, which form so conspicuous features on some of our maps, have really no existence, and need therefore no longer vex us as incongruous elements in the orology of our country. Like the Santa Fé Mountains, the Sierra San Juan terminates abruptly south- ward, standing out as a bold headland on the margin of the sea-like plateau. The altitude of its highest summits must be nearly 13,000 feet, as snow lies on them in TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 77 places throughout the year, while from the Sandia and Santa Fé Mountains—over 12,000 feet in height—it entirely disappears in midsummer. Only a small portion of the range came under our observation ; but enough was seen to show that its struc- ture was essentially the same with that of the other chains belonging to the same series which we were able to examine more fully. The southern extremity is mostly eruptive in character, consisting of basaltic trap, porphyry, and trachyte, some of the latter containing crystals of feldspar of large size. As usual, the summits composed of these materials present very varied and picturesque outlines. In the opposite chain of the Sierra del Navajo are some castellated summits, which, as seen through a powertul glass, presented an appearance exceedingly imposing and beautiful. Among these are precipices, ornamented with imitations of columns, arches, and pilasters, which form some of the grandest specimens of nature’s Gothic architecture | have »ver beheld. When viewed from some nearer point they must be even awful in their sublimity. The Cretaceous strata at the base of the San Juan Mountains are highly fossil- liferous, and yielded me a large number of species. The ferruginous, sandy lime- stones and shales near the base of the middle division of the Cretaceous series, where exposed just north of the Pagosa, are almost made up of the shells of Ostrea, Inocera- mus, Ammonites, &e. This is the horizon from which the oysters, gryphieas, fish- teeth, &c., were collected in such abundance on the Canadian, at Galisteo, at the ford of the Chama, and various other points on our route. ‘These fossils are limited to the first hundred feet of the shale-beds above the Lower Cretaceous sandstones; the most abundant at the Pagosa are Ostrea lugubris, O. uniformis, Meek, un. sp., Lnoceramus prob- lematicus, and I. fragilis 1 also found here an interesting series of the teeth of Ptychodus Whipplei, described at length in the chapter on Paleontology. Above the beds in which these fossils are found, the black bituminous shales contain large, gener- ally broken, shells of Nautilus and Inoceramus, thickly set with Ostrea congesta. All the interval between the Pagosa and Rio Piedra is occupied by Cretaceous rocks. Over large surfaces the Lower Cretaceous sandstones are laid bare, generally much disturbed, and somewhat changed. The only fossils discovered were indistinct vegetable impressions, among which the most conspicuous is a tuberculated fucoid (Halymenites) common in the Cretaceous sandstones of all this region. Here, as at the ‘Tierra Maria, these rocks are cut by jointsinto blocks of nearly uniform size. Of these joints the most strongly marked have a bearing approximately north and south; the others cross these nearly at right angles. In the great number of localities in New Mexico where I observed jointings of these rocks, I found them to have similar direc- tions, and to be in no case influenced by local disturbances, nor having any obvious connection with the prevailing dip. This rule is of so general application that I have been driven to refer the jointing of all the rocks of this region to one great common cause. This has seemed to me probably magnetic, but may possibly be connected with the action of the forces which have given to all the great lines of elevation a general north and south trend. On the Nutria Frances, a small tributary of the Rio Piedra, the black shales of the Middle Cretaceous are exposed in various places. They here contain large Jno- Capl. J N.Macomb, Exp in New Mexico & Utah. Plate IV. * 4 * PALE RR we RS heh ee ae THE PAGOSA & SAN JUAN RIVER, LO OR TNE & RASS tert bey 78 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE cerami, Nautili, and fish-scales. ‘The Piedra Parada, a well-known landmark, which has conferred its name upon the Rio Piedra, is a chimney-like column of rock, rising with its base to the height of eight or nine hundred feet above the surrounding coun- try. It is itself composed of the Upper Cretaceous sandstone, resting apon a base of dark shales, (Middle Cretaceous,) and is a remnant of a plateau now almost entirely removed by erosion. The valley of the Rio Piedra is, in physical aspect and geological structure, the counterpart of that of the Rito Blanco, already described; the only noteworthy point of difference being that the Upper Cretaceous sandstone here contains beds of lig- nite of considerable thickness, though of limited lateral extent. The disturbances which the Cretaceous strata have suffered in this region are very well shown in the immediate vicinity of our camp on the Piedra. On the east side of the river the plateau, with which the Piedra Parada was once connected, stretches away south for several miles, with a rapid dip in that direction. On the west side is a mesa of which the cut-edge rises abruptly from the margin of the stream to the height of over twelve hundred feet. This mesa is composed of precisely the same materials as that bounding the valley on the east, but its strata are almost perfectly horizontal. Just above our camp this mesa is broken short off by a line of fracture running nearly east and west; its component rocks, set nearly on edge, forming a wall which rises to the height of eighteen hundred feet above the river. Between this disrupted mass and the mesa from which it has been broken is a low pass through which our trail ran. Soon after leaving the Rio Piedra we began to ascend rapidly and soon rose on to a high divide between the Piedra and Rio de los Pinos. This divide seems to be an axis of elevation, running southward from the mountains between the Piedra and Pinos. It is composed of Cretaceous rocks irregularly broken up, generally inclined at a high angle. It has an altitude of about sixteen hundred feet above our camp on the Piedra. The view from its summit is peculiarly grand and interesting; eastward the Navajo and San Juan mountains bound the horizon, terminating southward in the Cerro. del Nav- ajo. On the south and west sides of these ranges the rivers we have recently passed take their rise, and their valleys may in part be followed by the eye. None of the summits visible in this direction are covered with perpetual snow, but all bear patches in the higher valleys. as Nearer us than the mountains was a labyrinth of hills, spread out before us as on amap. These seem to have been generally formed by a series of breaks in the Cre- taceous rocks, and, so far as we could see, are all composed of these materials. Toward the west our view was quite different. In that direction we looked down on what seemed an extensive plain, extending northward to the base of the Sierra de la Plata, now for the first time distinctly seen, and on the south bounded by high mesas, through an opening in which, the gap of the Rio las Animas, was visible the high chain of the Carriso Mountains south of the San Juan This plain before us we subsequently found to be a basin-like space, lying between the mountains on the north and the table-lands south; a depressed area, completel y inclosed in high lands, except where these are cut by the narrow gorges through which the waters of TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 79 the Animas and the Pinos have forced their way to join the San Juan. It is, in fact, an expansion of the valley of the Animas, has been mainly excavated by its current, and is everywhere covered with beds of transported material washed down from the mount- ains.* As we descended into the valley and thus opened it more to the north, we gained sight of a chain of mountains in that direction, which our guide calls Sierra de los Pinos. These are quite lofty, and consist, as I discovered from the drift brought down from them, of quartzites, silicious slates, limestone, and granite, with some trap, but with a prevalence of metamorphic over erupted rocks. ‘The Rio de los Pinos is a clear, cold, trout-stream, full as large as the San Juan at the Pagosa. The bottom-lands are wooded with willows, cottonwood, alder, &e., and scattered trees of yellow pine, the latter of which mark its course in the open sage-covered country through which it dows, 9~7 have naturally suggested the name which it bears. The interval between the Rio de los Pinos and Rio Florido is underlaid by the Middle Cretaceous shales; is gently rolling in outline, its more level surfaces covered with sage (Artemisia tridentata), its rounded hills with cedars or serub-oak. Here and there are meadows of good grass, with a strong growth of annual plants. On the whole, however, the country is less picturesque and_ less productive than that lying sovth and east of it. The Rio Florido, or River of Flowers, is so named from the flowery meadows which line its banks; meadows which, so far as we could see, are no broader, greener, or more flowery than those which border the other rivers of this region. It is, however, a bright, handsome stream, similar in character to the Pinos, and about half as large. It is probably not more than thirty or forty miles in length; rises in the foot-hills of the Sierra de los Pinos, and joins the Animas some fifteen miles southwest from where we crossed it. The bowlders which it has brought down from its sources are quite varied in character, and probably give a very fair representation of the geology of the mountains which it drains. Of these many are composed of coarse red granite, much like that of the Santa Fé Mountains, black and white porphyry, closely resembling that. which is so abundant at the gold-mines in the Placer Mountains; blue limestone, containing many of the characteristic Coal-Measure fossils so common at Santa Fé, such as Productus semirecticulatus, P. nodosus, Spirifer cameratus, Chonetes mesoloba, &c.; with these are masses of red and white sandstone, probably ‘Triassic. ~The course of the Florido lies altogether within the basin-like area of which I have before spoken. The extent and character of this area were fully learned in an FSegtigiey: veh I made from our camp on the Florido, about forty miles down the alluaas, to visit some extensive and interesting ruins situated in the valley of that - stream some twenty miles above its mouth. From my notes of this trip I make the following extracts: “August 4th—Left camp early with Pfeiffer, the Indian agent, Messrs. Fisher and Dorsey, and several Indians, to visit the ruins reported to exist at a certain point on the banks of the Animas; crossed over in a direct line to the Animas, a distance of about ten miles. All this interval is occupied by a gravel mesa, of which the surface is * Since named Animas Park. 80 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE gently rolling, generally covered with grass or sage-bushes, with scattered trees of pinon and cedar. Reaching the Animas we found it flowing in a valley one to three miles wide, bounded by gravel terraces, of which there are two, sometimes three, dis- tinctly visible. Near the mouth of the Florido the first terrace, which is near the stream, has an altitude of about 50 feet; the second, 260. feet higher; the third, the general surface of the plain which we crossed, 200 feet higher still. All these terraces are, I suppose, of local origin, having been left by the sinking of the bed of the stream consequent upon the cutting Sots of the gorge it has opened in the table-lands south. Between the junction of the Florido with the Animas and the valley of the San Juan, the table-land seems to be continuous, but has its greatest altitude along its northern margin. Immediately after receiving the Florido the Animas enters a deep and narrow canon, in which it flows for several miles; the walls of this canon are 1,500 to 1,600 feet in height; in places nearly vertical; the rocks exposed are principally sandstones, of which the prevailing color is a light brownish-yellow, sometimes becoming a pale red. These sandstones belong to the Upper Cretaceous series, which is here more fully exposed than anywhere in that portion of our route already passed over. Through the canon the river is very rapid and much obstructed by rocks, and can- not be followed on horseback; below this the valley widens and the declivities of the bluffs which bound it become more gentle; the bottom-lands are from a mile to two milesin width, and quite fertile; the river is bordered by thickets of willow and buffalo-berry, with groups and sometimes groves of cottonwood. It is in this part of the valley that the ruins are situated. The principal structures are large pueblos, handsomely built of stone, and in a pretty good state of preservation. ‘The external walls are composed of yellow Cretaceous sandstone, dressed to a common smooth surface without hammer-marks; in some places they are still 25 feet in height. As usual in buildings of this kind, the walls were unbroken by door or window to the height of 15 fect above the foundation. The interior shows a great number of small rooms, many of which are in a perfect state of preservation, and handsomely plastered. These larger structures are surrounded by mounds and fragments of masonry, mark- ing the sites of great numbers of subordinate buildings; the whole affording conclu- sive evidence that a large population once had its home here. The fragments of highly ornamented and glazed pottery which cover the surface in the vicinity of these build- ings, as well as the peculiar style of architecture in which they are constructed, show that the people who built and occupied these structures belonged to the common aboriginal race of this region, now generally known as the Puehlo Indians. “After our return from the ruins on the Animas, our party mov«d over and encamr~t on that stream, at the point where it is crossed by the old Spanish trail. It is nearly a hundred yards wide, deep and rapid, and, at the present stage of water, not easily forded. It here issues from the hills and enters the basin before dseetied, Above this point it flows through a broad mountain valley not yet explored, but of which the general features are given by the two great mountain groups which border it on the east and west—the Sierra de los Pinos and Sierra de la Plata. Of these the Sierra de la Plata is the most conspicuous feature in the scenery, a broad and lofty mountain belt stretching continuously northward as far as the eye can reach. TO JUNOTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. . VBs “The drift from the mountains drained by the Animas shows that their structure is essentially that of the Santa Fé Mountains and the other principal ranges of the Rocky Mountain system. In this transported material are blocks, often weighing several tons, of red granite, similar to that of Santa Fé; gray granite, not unlike that forming the base of the section in the Colorado Canon at the mouth of Diamond River, described in my former report; Carboniferous limestone, with many of the fossils found at Santa Fé and in the Coal-Measures of the Mississippi Valley; black and white porphyry, trachyte, trap, and metamorphosed red sandstone. No traces of Silurian or Devonian rocks were discovered. The hills just above our camp are composed of red sandstone and conglomerate (Triassic), very much disturbed.” Below the crossing of the Spanish trail the valley of the Animas is susceptible of cultivation to the junction of the Florido, though the belt of arable land is narrow, and, in part at least, can only be cultivated by irrigation. In regard to the origin of the broad valley or basin which borders this part of the course of the Animas, I think we may safely say that its features were given by the disturbances which this region has suffered; that, in the breaking up of the table- lands, a basin-like depression was left, into which the Animas flowed, and which it partially filled with gravel and bowlders brought down from the mountains above. Subse- quently, the enclosing walls of this area were cut down, along the natural line of drain- age, until the river reached its present level, and what was its bed at different epochs, now forms gravel terraces high above it. The geology of that portion of our route lying between the Animas and the Rio de la Plata is precisely similar to that of most of the country previously passed through; the only rocks exposed are those of the upper portion of the Cretaceous formation, which compose broken hills flanking the eastern and southern slopes of the Sierra de la Plata. Among these hills the trail winds, following the courses of the. picturesque and fertile, though narrow, valleys which separate them. From the headwaters of a small tribu- tary of the Animas we crossed over a divide which rises to the height of about 1,000 feet above our Camp 17; thence descending nearly as much, we struck the La Plata just where it issues from the mountain-gorges in which it takes its rise. Of our camp on the La Plata I find the following description in my notes: “The Rio de la Plata is a beautifully clear, cold, mountain-brook; like the Animas and other streams we have recently Ane well-stocked with trout. The valley in which it flows, as it issues from the mountains, is exceedingly beautiful, and our camp one of the oe delightful imaginable. Our tents are pitched in the shade of a cluster of gigantic pines, such as are scattered, here and there, singly or‘in groups, over the surface of the valley, sepa- rated by meadows thickly coated with the finest gramma grass. Stretching off andi ward, a wall of verdure, tinted with the fresh and vivid green of cottonwoods and willows, marks, while it conceals, the course of the sparkling stream whose murmuring How comes softly to the ear. On either side of the valley rise picturesque wooded hills, which bound the view both east and west; between these on the south an open vista reveals, far in the distance, the blue chains of the Sierra del Carriso and Tune- cha. On the north the bold and lofty summits of the Sierra de la Plata look down upon us in this pure atmosphere with an apparent proximity almost startling. Patches ll 8 F 82 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE of snow are visible upon them, which, by their wasting, supply the flow of the Rio de la Plata, which rises in the gorges beneath them.” The geology of the vicinity is similar to that of much of our route already passed; the prevailing rocks*are Upper Cretaceous, which compose the hills bordering the val- ley ; the thick mass of sandstone, which forms the Piedra Parada, caps these hills and has a rapid dip away from the mountains; this is succeeded below by a series of gray and yellow foliated sandstones or sandy shales, containing immense quantities of fucoidal stems, so many indeed that these casts make up the greater part of the deposit. They are a half-inch in diameter, the surface covered with indistinct annular markings. — Be- side the fucoids, these beds contain the well-known Cretaceous fossil, Ammonites pla- centa, and in lenticular masses of limestone immense numbers of Baculites anceps, Car- dium bellalum, Meek, Astarte Shumardi, M., Aporrhais Newberryi, Meek, &ce. Several of these fossils are common in the Upper Cretaceous beds of Nebraska (Nos. 4 and 5 of Meek and Hayden’s section of the Cretaceous rocks of Nebraska), and afford satisfactory confirmation of the parallelism before suggested between the rocks of this region and those of more eastern localities. The Baculites are so numer- ous as to form in some places half the bulk of the rock. Of these, the greater num- ber are ornamented with nodes, in the manner of B. asper (Roemer), with which they may be identical. The smooth ones resemble B. ovatus and 2. compressus. They vary much in form, some being nearly cylindrical, others much compressed, with every pos- sible variety between these extremes. All, however, as it seems to me, belongs to one species. From the summit of the hills, near camp, we have a fine view of the country south of us to the San Juan. All this interval is occupied by a mesa composed of the Upper Cretaceous rocks, deeply scored along the lines of drainage. The dip of the rocks composing this plateau is here southward, and very rapid; farther from the bases of the mountains they seem to lie nearly horizontal. The southern end of the Sierra de la Plata is composed mainly of light-colored porphyry and other forms of erupted rock. It also consists in part of granite, with mica and clay-slate, traversed by extensive veins of quartz and epidote, which are metalliferous, containing magnetic iron, and sulphides of iron, copper, and lead; doubt- less, also, in certain localities, silver and gold; at least there is better promise of the discovery of the precious metals in these mountains than in any others we have visited since leaving the Rio Grande. The name given by the Spaniards to this great sierra, Silver Mountain, would seem to indicate that at some time silver had been found there, but I cannot learn that any definite knowledge is possessed by the Mexicans or the Indians of the existence of metallic veins such as would justify their choice of a title so significant. ee lO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 83 OED Aw tH va GEOLOGY OF THE SAGE-PLAIN AND VALLEY OF THE UPPER COLO- RADO. }ENERAL FEATURES OF THE NORTHERN PORTION OF THE COLORADO BASIN—ASPECTS AND © STRUCTURE OF THE SAGE-PLAIN—MESA VERDE—ENORMOUS DENUDATION OF THE COLO- RADO PLATEAU—CROSSING THE SAGE PLAIN—RIO DE LOS MANCOS—RIlvW DOLORES—SECTION OF LOWER CRETACEOUS ROCGKS—RUINS ON THE DOLORES—SIERRA SAN MIGUEL—SUROU- ARA—TIERRA BLANCA—GUAJELOTES—CANON PINTADO—TRIASSIC ROCKS—SAURIAN BONES —LA TenrgAL—ERropep BUTTES—CASA COLORADO—OJo VERDE--SIERRA LA SaAL—THEXcurR- SION TO GRAND RIVER—CANON COLORADO—PLATEAU BORDERING THE COLORADO RIVER— ERODED .MONUMENTS—LABYRINTH CANON—RUINED BUILDINGS—SUMMI? OF THE CARBON- IFBROUS FORMATION—SECTION OF TRIASSIC ROCKS—REMARKABLE COUNTRY ABOUT THE JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS—SINGULAR ERODED BUTTES AND PINNACLES— NETWORK OF GANONS—CANON OF GRAND RIVER—SECTION OF CARBONIFEROUS STRATA— TRANSVERSE SECTION OF THE COLORADO VALLEY—RETURN ‘TO SAGE-PLAIN—J OURNEY SOUTHWARD TO THE SAN JUAN—SITERRA ABAJO. Between the Rio dela Plata and the Rio de los Mancos we skirted the base of the extreme southern point 6f the Sierra de la Plata. These mountains terminate south- ward in along slope, which falls down to a level of about 7,500 feet above the sea, forming: a. plateau which extends southward to the San Juan, the Mesa Verde, to which - I shall soon have occasion again to refer. This mesa terminates on the west by an abrupt nearly vertical precipice from 1,200 to 1,500 feet in height. Between the mesa and the mountains is a natural pass or puerta, through which the Spanish trail leads where it crosses the divide. On the west this puerta opens to the right and left; bounded on the north by the retreating southwesterly slopes of the Sierra de la Plata, on the south by the wall-like edges of the Mesa Verde. As we stood on its threshold we looked far out over a great plain, to the eye as limitless as the sea; the monotonous outline of its surface varied only by two or three small island-like mountains, so distant as scarcely to rise above the horizon line. Here we were to leave the lofty sierras of the Rocky Mountain system, which had so long looked down on our camps and marches, the picturesque scenery of the foot-hills, their flowery valleys and sparkling streams, the grateful shade of their noble forests, and take our weary way across the arid ex- panse of the great western plateau; a region whose dreary monotony is 6 ly broken by frightful chasms, where alone the weary traveler finds shelter from ea heat of a cloudless sun, and where he seeks, too often in vain, a cooling draught that shal] slake his thirst. ‘To us, however, as well as to all the civilized world, it was a terra 84 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE incognita, and was viewed with eager interest, both as the scene of our future explora- tions and asthe possible repository of truth which we might gather and add to the sum total of human knowledge. An outline sketch of this portion of the Colorado Plateau has been already given in Chap. III, and but little more need be said to make its general features clearly compre- hended. ‘The plain which stretches westward from the Sierra de la Plata—indicated on the accompanying map, where it is called the Great Sage-plain—is part of an immense plateau which once stretched continuously far beyond the course of the Colorado. — Tow it has been divided by the canons of the draining streams, and how, by erosion, its plateau character has been so modified as to be locally lost, will fully appear in the progress of our geological narrative; yet no one who observes the orderly and un- broken arrangement of its underlying rocks, the perfect correspondence of the sections on opposite sides of the profound canons which cut. it, will hesitate to assent to the assertion that an unbroken table-land once stretched from the base of the Sierra de la Plata all the way across to the mountain chains west of the Colorado, and that from this plateau, grain by grain, the sedimentary materials which once filled the broad and deep valleys of the Colorado and San Juan have been removed by the currents of | these streams. The mind is awestruck in the contemplation of the magnitude of the element of time which enters into the analysis of the process by which these stupendous monuments of erosion have been produced; but if the numerical faculty is batted in the effort to count the years or ages which must have been consumed in the erosion of the valleys and canons to which I have referred, even the imagination itself is lost when called upon to estimate the eycles on cycles during which the much grander features of the high table-lands were wrought from a plateau which once overspread mast of the area of the Colorado Basin, burying the present Sage- plain 2,000 feet benéiith its upper surface. As I have before said, the Great Sage-plain is everywhere Ronee by the Lower Cretaceous sandstones; massive resistent strata, 800 to 500 feet in thickifess. These are succeeded in the ascending series, where the upper members of the formation are present, by the Middle Cretaceous shales, principally soft argillaceous beds, from 1,200 to 1,500 feet in thickness. Above these belong the Upper Cretaceous sandstones and marls, occupying an equal vertical space. Now, over the great plateau, floored and protected by the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, are everywhere scattered mounds of greater or less elevation, composed of the Middle Cretaceous shales, and in the inter- val between these mounds are scattered thousands and millions of the fossils charac- teristic of these shale-beds, washed, like pebbles, from their soft envelope. Here we have conclusive evidence that the Middle Cretaceous shales once completely covered the sandstone-floor of the Sage-plain from which they have been nearly removed by aqueous action. As we approach the margin of the sandstone plateau, we find the mounds of overlying shale becoming more numerous and higher, until, reaching the edge of the high mesa, they blend in solid escarpments more than 1,000 feet: in altitude, crowned by the massive, but soft, sandstones which form the third and upper division of the Cretaceous series. Such are some of the facts which may be observed about the base of the Mesa TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 85 Verde, facts of which the significance will be readily appreciated; but these are not all the things that may be seen from the vicinity of our present standpoint. ‘The Mesa Verde is, geologically, but a portion of the high table-lands which border the Upper San Juan; the northern margin of which is followed by our route from the ford of the Chama to the Mancos. Here this plateau terminates abruptly in a bold and most pic- turesque wall, of which the general course, though varied by many salient and re-entering angles, is nearly north and south from the Sierra de la Plata to the San Juan. This mesa we completely encireled; examined it at a thousand points, and can speak of its structure and extent with confidence. To obtain a just conception of the enor- mous denudation which the Colorado Plateau has suffered, no better point of view could possibly be selected than that of the summit of the Mesa Verde. The geologist here has, as it seems to me, satisfactory proof of the proposition I have before made, that, from the greater portion of the Colorado Plateau, strata more, than 2,000 feet in thickness have been removed by erosion. He here has a view toward the west, limited only by the powers of human vision. Directly west the Sage-plain stretches out nearly horizontal, unmarked by any prominent feature, to the distance of a hundred miles. There the island-like mountains, the Sierra Abajo and Sierra La Sal, rise from its sur- face. South of these is the little doubled-peaked mountain, called by the Mexicans Las Orejas del Oso—the bear's ears; beyond these his vision could not reach, but our explorations enable us to tell him there lies the broad eroded valley of the Colorado, bounded by two steps, of over 1,000 feet each, below the level of the Sage-plain, and in the bottom of that valley, the chasm of the Colorado Canon, whose perpendicular walls are 1,500 feet in height; beyond the trough of the Colorado, a plateau corre- sponding to the Sage-plain, and beyond this a répresentative of the Mesa Verde. Looking southwest, he would see the Sage-plain terminated in that direction by the excavated valley of the San Juan; beyond this its representatives of similar character and elevation; higher and more distant than these, the long perspective lines of the lofty mesas north and west of the Moqui villages; the precise counterpart of that on which he is supposed to stand. | ‘ On the northern margin of the plateau, we are assured by those who have been there that the constituent rocks of the Mesa Verde are exposed, holding the same posi- tions as here Are we not then driven by these facts to eonclude that, over all this area of undisturbed sedimentary rocks, surrounded by table-lands composed of like strata, presenting corresponding, but now widely separated faces, these strata once stretched in unbroken connection; and that, from the great interval, where now wanting, they have been removed by the same all-potent influence which has left such grand and so similar records in the canons of the Colorado and its tributaries. The geology of the country lying between the Sierra La Plata and Sierra Abajo is so Monotonous as to require no lengthy description; all that need be said of it is in brief notes of our different days’ maréehes contained in my journal. Krom these | make the following extracts: ‘. “ August 10th, Camp 21, 0n Rio Dolores—The Rio de los Mancos is a clear mount- ain stream, formed by two branches, which unite just below our camp, and which rise in the foot-hills of the Sierra de la Plata, on its western side. Each of the two Capt _J.N.Macomb, Exp, in New Mexico & Utah. Plate vy. - Sa ee . 7 a“ . % J.J.YOUNG froma sketch by Df J. S. NEWBERRY. RtO: D0 GORES oe. Soy aoe. 1s a oe FROM NEAR CAMP 21, 86 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE branches is about the size of the La Plata; they flow through a pretty valley, and are bordered by thickets of willow and alder, and groves of pine and cottonwood. As usual, at such high elevation, the cottonwood is all of the narrow-leaved species— Populus angustifolia, ‘The immediate banks of the Mancos are at this point composed of the black shales, which overlie the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, containing Ostrea congesta, Inoceramus problematicus, &e. Very near camp (19) is a clear, cold spring, of which the water is highly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen ; another of the mineral springs flowing from the dark Cretaceous shales, so common in New Mexico, where they are known as Ojos heriondos. Soon after leaving the Mancos, we came upon the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, which form the surface-rock to the Dolores. These sandstones are covered in places by detached hills of overlying shales and light-blue limestone, as usual, crowded with their characteristic fossils. The sandstones below are exposed in all the ravines which we crossed, and in nearly every locality where | examined them, I found in them impressions of angiospermous leaves, Populus, Salix, Quercus, &c. After traveling 15 miles, we descended into a narrow valley of erosion, traversed by a small clear stream, a tributary of the Dolores. The walls of the valley are in places nearly perpendicular, and are composed of the Lower Cretaceous sand- stones, of which some 200 feet are exposed. These are generally yellow and coarse, but alternate with laminated, greenish, ripple-marked layers, beds of greenish and eray shales, and occasional bands of lignite. Nearly all contain the impressions of the stems of plants and dicotyledonous leaves, similar to those so frequently before seen in the same formation. ‘The lowest stratum visible at this point, is a fine-grained com- pact sandstone, very uniform in texture, and as white as loaf-sugar; a most beautiful building material.” : The country lying between the Mancos and Dolores is generally dry and sterile, yet is everywhere covered with fragments of broken pottery, showing its former occu- pation by a considerable number of inhabitants; it is now utterly deserted. Near the mountains it is pretty well timbered; farther west, trees become more scattered and smaller, the pines confined to the narrow valleys, the uplands dotted with eroves of pinon and cedar, with wide intervals covered with sage-bushes and soap-plant, Yucca angustifolia. ‘The Dolores rises on the west side of the Sierra de la Plata, many miles north of our route, and is here a clear, rapid stream, as large as the San Juan at the Pagosa. It runs through a beautiful but narrow valley, several hundred feet below the surface of the surrounding country. This is a valley of excavation, cut in the Lower Cretaceous rocks, which form bluffs on either side over 200 feet high, in many places perpendicular. The bottom-lands are nearly level, half a mile wide, and very fertile, covered with fine grass, with groves of cottonwood and willow, and scattered trees of yellow pine. Near the river the thickets are overgrown with virein’s bower and hop, which form almost impenetrable jungles. Great numbers of flowers ornament the open grounds, generally of the species so common in the valleys before passed through. The bluffs bounding the river below our camp show the following section : 1. Soil with rolled gravel and bowlders, drift from the Sierra de la Plata, princi- pally white and black porphyry like that on the Mancos and La Plata. TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 87 Dark-blue caleareous shales with bands of dove-colored limestone, weathering ipeer with thinner layers of brown sandy limestone. In the shales are imbedded great numbers of Gryphea Pitcheri, generally of small size but beautifully perfect. They exhibit a great variety of form, some being very high and narrow; others broader, like the typical G. Pitcheri; others nearly orbicular, like G. dilatata of the Oxford clay ; others still broader, with a transverse diameter con- siderably greater than the antero-posterior. Between these various forms are connect- ing links which seem to prove that all belong to one species. The dove-colored lime- stones, here as on the Chama and Canadian, contain almost exclusively Jnoceramus problematicus, and also exhibit the peculiar fracture noticed in the localities mentioned above, and others, on exposure, cracking horizontally into concavo-convex chip-like fragments, having sharp edges. The ferruginous layers represent the fish-bed of the Pagosa, the Chama, the Canadian, &e., a clearly defined geological horizon throughout all the Cretaceous area of New Mexico; they contain here Ostrea lugubris and many fragments of Lnoceramus I. problematicus and a much larger species probably not described. 3. Coarse yellow satdeiiees often a conglomerate, containing impressions of ae ‘O- tyledonous leaves, Salix, &e., and thin bands.of lignite. 4. Greenish or light-brown soft calcareous sandstone, with local layers of blue clay-shale and thin seams of lignite; no fossils observed. Thick-bedded light-yellow or white sandstone, locally coarse or fine, some- times a conglomerate contaiming quartz pebbles, generally fine-grained and nearly white; no fossils. Green or purple clay stones and shales. 7. Soft greenish sandstone. Most of the strata enumerated above are exposed in the cliffs bordering the valley ; for several miles are entirely unbroken, conformable throughout, and have a gentle dip to the west. The facts here observed are of special interest as deciding beyond all appeal the question of the relative age of the sandstone group containing angiosperm ous leaves, so marked a feature in the geology of New Mexico. This is but one of the great number of cases where these sandstones were found overlaid by strata con- taining well known Cretaceous fossils. It is to be hoped that this mooted question will now be considered settled, since it must be so in the mind of every honest inves- tigator. From the summit of the hill from which the preceding section was taken, we obtained a magnificent view of a wide extent of country lying on every side of us. In the east the Sierra de la Plata rose as a high and unbroken wé all, pr esenting a more raried outline than when seen from the other side; south of se Sierra, the puerta through which we had passed; beyond this, stretching far off southward, the green slopes and lofty battlements of the Mesa Verde beetling over the plain like some high and roek-bound coast above the level ocean; south, and near us, the miniature peak and chain of La Late; far more distant, the Sierras Carriso and Tunec ‘ha in the Navajo country ; occupying the whole western horizon the monotonous expanse of the Sage- plain, beyond which rose the low summits of the Orejas del Oso, Sierra Abajo, wd 88 — EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE Sierra la Sal. In the north appeared a new and grand: topographical feature. From N. 10° W. to N. EK. magnetic stretched a chain of great mountains, higher and more picturesque than any we haa seen. ‘These have no common name, but one of the peaks is called, from the stream which washes its base, Sierra San Miguel. Whether these mountains form a single chain or several, and what is their prevail- ing trend cannot be said with certainty without closer inspection ; the overlapping lines of their bases, which would decide that question, being concealed by intervening high- lands. I should infer, however, from the view we had of them, that they represent several distinct ranges, with a trend nearly north and south, set en cchelon. Between the most easterly of these mountains and the Sierra de la Plata is a low gap, in which stands a remarkable pinnacle of rock; even at a distance of seventy or eighty miles a striking object. One of the mountains in this group bears a large surface of snow, and its height cannot be less than 13,000 feet. Several others are nearly as lofty, and are | cones of great beauty. The hill from which we obtained this view is crowned with an extensive series of very ancient ruins. The principal one is a pueblo, nearly 100 feet square, once sub- stantially built of dressed stone, now a shapeless heap, in which the plan of the original structure can, however, be traced. Like most of the ruined pueblos of New Mexico, it consisted of a series of small rooms clustered together, like cells in a beehive. Near the principal edifice are mounds of stone, representing subordinate buildings. Among’ these are numerous large depressions marking the places of cisterns or estuffas. Quan- tities of broken pottery, similar to that so commonly seen in like circumstances, but bearing the marks of great age, strew.the ground about these ruins. b, A nile or two up the river are several other sfone houses built high up in the cliffs, 150 feet above the stream; they are usually placed on ledges covered by pro- jecting rocks, which act as roofs. ‘These houses are not large, and were probably only occupied by the guardians of the fields once in cultivation below. All of these, as well as the more extensive ruins before mentioned, are admirably located for defense, and would be easily held by a handful of determined men against any number of assailants armed only with the weapons of savage warfare. Between our camp on the Dolores and Surouara no new geological feature was noticed. The Lower Cretaceous sandstones everywhere form the’ rocky substratum, here and there covered with patches of the overlying shale. From these shale-beds millions of Gryphzeas have washed out, covering the surface and rattling under the mule’s feet like gravel-stones. Sage is the predominant vegetation, and no water is found in the interval; yet we passed several ruined buildings, and broken pottery is scattered everywhere. Surouaro is the name of a ruined town which must once have contained a popu- lation of several thousands. The name is said to be of Indian (Utah) origin, and to signify desolation, and certainly no better could have been selected. Vhe surround- ing country is hopelessly sterile; and, whatever it once may have been, Surouaro is now desolate enough. Here are two canons, cut in the sandstone by two former streams. These unite nearly a mile below camp. All the interval of mesa between them is covered with ruins. The houses are, many of them, large, and all built of TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 89 stone, hammer-dressed on the exposed faces. Fragments of pottery are exceedingly common, though, like the buildings, showing great age. There is every evidence that a large population resided here for many years, perhaps centuries, and that they deserted it several hundred years ago; that they were Pueblo Indians, and hence peaceful, industrious, and agricultural. How they managed to exist here, and how their town was depopulated, are questions that suggest themselves at once, but cer- tainly the former is the more puzzling. They may have been exterminated by the Navajos and Utahs, warlike and aggressive tribes who occupy the adjacent region; but where a population of many thousands once existed, now as many hundreds could not be sustained, either by agriculture or the chase. The surrounding country contains very little animal life, and almost none of it is now cultivable. It is 7,000 feet in altitude, intensely cold in winter, and very dry throughout the year. ‘The want of water alone would forbid the residence of any considerable number of persons at Surouaro if everything else were furnished them. The arroyos, through which streams seem to have once flowed, are now dry, and it was only with great difficulty that sufficient water was obtained for the supply of our train. The remains of metates (corn-mills) are abundant about the ruins, and corn was doubtless the staple article of their existence, but none could now be raised here. The ruins of several large reservoirs, built of masonry, may be seen at Surouaro, and there are traces of acequias, which led to these, through which water was brought perhaps from a great distance. At first sight the difficulties in the way of obtaining a supply of water for any considerable population at this point would seem insurmountable, and the readiest solution of the problem would be to infer a change of climate, by which this region was made uninhabitable. Such a conclusion is not necessary, however, for the skill and industry of the ancient inhabitants of the arid table-lands of New Mexico and Arizona achieved wonders in the way of procuring a supply of water. Some- times this was done by carefully collecting, in cisterns of masonry, every drop of a trickling spring; sometimes by canals, through which water was brought from long distances. The Moqui villages are now supplied, though rather scantily, by such means, where, if the cisterns were to fall into ruins, a single traveler could hardly find water enough for himself and horse. From Surouaro to the base of the Sierra Abajo our experience was exceedingly mo- notonous. ‘The physical aspects of the country are everywhere the same, and its geologi- eal structure equally unvaried. The Lower Cretaceous sandstones here lie nearly level, but are exposed in all the ravines, generally dry, which we crossed, while low mounds of the overlying shales were almost constantly in sight; their characteris- tic fossils lying about in such profusion that thousands of tons of them might have been collected. After leaving the immediate vicinity of the mountains, no beds of drift or trans- ported materials of any kind were met with, and it is evident that the denudation which the strata once covering the Sage-plain have suffered has not been effected by any deep and wide-spread currents by which this country has been swept, but by the quiet and long-continued action of atmospheric influences—rains, frosts, &c. No flowing stream was met with in all this part of our route, and we were compelled to 12sF 90 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE depend for our supply of water upon the springs or pools to which we were led by the trail we were following. At the Tierra Blanca we encamped at the finest of these springs which we saw. Here the water issues from the base of a low cliff of sand- stone, of which the surfaces are whitened by a saline effloresence, consisting in a great degree of chloride of sodium; a phenomenon which has given to the locality the name it bears. Our next stopping place was at the Guajelotes, a large pool of bad surface-water; a natural reservoir in the sandstone rocks, containing great numbers of water-lizards— Stredon—called by the Mexicans guajelotes. The Ojo del Cuerbo is a small spring similar to that of the Tierra Blanca, except that the water is less abundant and is Sol lunar ous. We had here approached comparatively near to the Sierras Abajo and La Sal, the one being twenty, the other forty miles distant. Of isolated mountain ‘groups the La Sal is considerably the higher and more extensive ; both are, however, of insig- nificant dimensions as compared with the lofty ranges of the Sierra San Miguel. Up to this point we had constantly met with fragments of broken pottery scat- tered over the surface, and had frequently seen traces of ruined buildings. CANON PINTADO. Between the Sierras Abajo and La Sal passes a natural line of drainage, marked above by a formidable cation, which furrows the Sage-plain many miles up toward the Sierra San Miguel... North of the Sierra Abajo this canon terminates, or rather it opens to the right and left, its walls extending to the bases of the two groups of mountains I have mentioned, forming here the western terminus of the Sage-plain. ‘To reach the second and lower plateau it is necessary to descend the cliffs which are formed by the cut edge of the first; this we did, following the Spanish trail, at a point about fifteen miles northeast of the Sierra Bis where a lateral cation enters the great one I haye described a few miles above its mouth. Here we descended at once more than 1,000 feet, leaving behind us the plateau of the Sage-plain, with its unvarying topography and monotonous Cretaceous geology, to enter the great’ eroded valley of Colo- ‘ado; a region of which the geology is all Triassic or Jurassic, and where the see exhibits all the brilliant colors.which characterize the rocks of these formations in the West, combined with all the vakicty of form which erosion ean produce. From the vivid colors of the walls of the canon where we entered it, it was mamed by our party Canon Pintado. Its walls are precipitous, ¢ generally alist perpendicular, the lower half composed of strata which are bright red, green, Fallow or white; soft but massive beds weathering, as such materials are so proneto do in this region, into arches, domes, spires, towers, and a thousand other imitations of human architecture, all on a colos- sal scale. The bottom is smooth and nearly level, in many places covered with the finest gama grass, in others with the salt-bush (Sar cobatus), A section “of the rocks exposed in the cafion is as follows, the thickness of the strata being estimated : TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 91 Section of the cliffs of Caron Pintado. Feet I. Coarse yellow sandstone, floor of Sage-plain............-.-----.2..-.--- 200 2. Gray and green shales, intarstratified with coarse gray sandstones and yellow Om intnhs . cae eee. et Se Shae 250 3. Red and green shales, with bands of whitish and greenish sandstone, with silici- Rubee se OTP ey Pate eRG ea a te cla win Sok ween 350 4. Yellow and red massive caleareous sandstones............-.------------- 200 In the foregoing section No. 1 is the Lower Cretaceous sandstone forming the surface-rock over all the country lying between the Sierra La Plata and Sierra Abajo. A short distance back from the canon it is overlaid by patches of shale with Gryphzas, aud therefore represents the surface of the. Lower Cretaceous group. No. 2 is proba- bly also Cretaceous, though here containing no fossils by which this question could be determined with certainty. A group of rocks, having similar lithological characters, at the Moqui villages, lies between the red beds below and the massive leaf-bearing sandstones above, and there contains Ammonites percarinatus and other Lower Creta- ceous fossils. As will be seen in the progress of our geological narrative, at interme- diate points on the San Juan a thickness of several hundred feet of soft green sand- stones and green sandy shales separates the coarse yellow sandstones (the floor of the Sage-plain) from the red gypsiferous rocks below. Until fossils shall be discovered in these beds, it will be impossible to draw any sharply defined line marking the base of the Cretaceous formation; and since the strata are here everywhere sotieathntle, it | is extremely doubtful whether any such line of demarcation exists in nature. Saurian bones.—On the north side of the cation just opposite our camp (26), in the face of the cliff, about 250 feet above its base, I discovered the bones of a large Saurian. Probably the greater part of the skeleton is still imbedded in the rock, as, although I spent two days, with several assistants, in excavating at this point, the tools at our command were too light for such heavy work as it proved to be, and we were compelled to leave many bones, which we could see, but had not the means to extricate from their envelopes. The special object of our efforts, the head, was not reached, but still remains to reward some future geologist who shall visit this interesting locality, with more time at his command and more adequate implements for rock excavation than we possessed. ‘The bones we obtained were mainly those of the extremities: a femur entire; the greater part of a humerus; several of the phalanges of the’toes; portions of the ribs, and other large and, to me, quite incomprehensible bones. All of these have been placed in the hands of the distinguished anatomist, Professor Leidy, who will make them the subject of a special report. The size of the animal, as indicated by these bones, must have been very large. The femur taken out measured 30 inches in length, by 4 in diameter, at its smallest part, the articulations being much thicker. A portion of the scapula which was taken out was 22 inches long and 16 wide at the broadest part, and this but a fragment. ; Near the locality where the larger skeleton was found a part of a rib of a smaller individual was picked up, and on the opposite side of the valley a shapeless fragment of a large bone was found at the foot of the cliff From these facts it is evident that Capt. J. N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate VI ape ehh TRS REY he pa ‘asia : 6 iy me EP ge AN I Nieg GS J.J.YOUNG froma sketch by Df J.-S. NEWBERRY. T. Sinclair & Son. lith. Phila. CASA COLORADO & LA SAL-MOUNTAINS. LOOKING NORTHEREY. 92 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE the Gypsum formation, usually so entirely barren of fossils, would here well repay labor spent in its examination; and it is greatly to be desired that future explorers of this far-off region will make an earnest effort to obtain what is, perhaps, here alone obtainable, the means of settling the vexed question of the parallelism of the G ypsum formation with deposits whose age has been accurately determined elsewhere. In the same stratum with the Saurian bones I discovered the only fossil shells have ever seen from that group of rocks in New Mexico. These have the form of Natica, but are probably not susceptible of accurate classification. Three miles below our “Saurian camp” (26), we reached the mouth of the Cation Pintado, which here opens out on to the second step of the table-lands in the descent to the Colorado. The surface-rock of this plateau is everywhere the soft, massive, cal- ‘areous sandstone or indurated marl which forms the base of the section in Canon Pintado. It is a comparatively soft rock, and contains a great deal of gypsum, very uniformly disseminated. It lies in thick beds, scarcely separated by any distinct part- ings, and yet exhibits the most striking examples of oblique stratification which have ever come under my observation; the inclined layers, which compose some of the beds, forming an angle of 30° and 40° with the primary planes of stratification, which are horizontal. ‘The slopes of the inclined layers are often £0 or 60 feet in length, with a rise of 20 or 30, showing that they were deposited from water, at times very much agitated. The colors of this rock are always very decided, but, in the same stratum, or on the same horizon, they are exceedingly local; a lemon or orange yellow being succeeded quite abruptly by rose-red, and this again by white. The prevailing shade is, however, a red, deep blood-red, or some lighter tint, such as brick-red, rose-tint, or flesh-color. It is a rather remarkable fact, that with such inclined and contorted layers of deposition this rock should include so little coarse material, and it is impossible to resist the conclusion that it is far more a chemical than mechanical precipitate, and that the period of its deposition was the commencement of a great epoch, during which peculiar physical conditions prevailed over not only the greater part of our continent, but of the world, so peculiar and so widespread that we may almost call them cosmical. Everywhere over the second plateau are scattered buttes and pinnacles, wrought, from the massive calcareous sandstone and the overlying Saurian beds, by the erosion which has swept from this surface all traces but these of the immense mass of sedi- mentary rocks which once covered it. Of these one of the most striking seen from our route is the Casa Colorado, represented on Plate VI. It is a detached butte, some 360 feet in height, composed of red sandstone covered with the harder layers of the Saurian beds. Another symmetrical and beautiful dome, composed of the same mate- rials, is lemon-yellow, with a base of red. Our camps 27 and 28 were on what I have called the second plateau. Of these the first was at La Tenejal, a deep excavation in the red sandstone, which retains so large a quantity of surface-water, and for so long a time, as to become an important water- ing-place on the Spanish trail. These natural reservoirs are frequently met with in this region, and during the dry season are of vital importance not only to such travelers as may be passing through it, but also to the small number of animals which here make their home. It is not at all uncommon to meet with them even on the summits TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 93 of the sandstone buttes, which I have described, and it has often happened to me, after a fatiguing climb to the top of some high cliff or pinnacle, to find its smooth-washed summit-rock scooped out in cavities from 2 to 20 feet in diameter, holding sometimes many barrels of the clearest rain-water, and affording me the two rarest possible luxuries in this arid region—a drink of pure water and a cleansing and refreshing bath. The Ojo Verde is a copious spring ina canon cut out of the red sandstone, ten miles west of La Teneja. The surrounding country is very-sterile, sparsely set with sage bushes and small cedars, but about the spring the bottom of the cation is cov- ered with the greenest and most luxuriant grass. The La Sal Mountain shows very finely from this point, distant twenty miles. It is seen to be composed of several short ranges, separated by narrow valleys, having a trend several degrees north of east, but these are set somewhat en échelon, and the direction of the longest diameter of the mount- ain mass is north-northwest and south-southeast; such, at least, seems to be the structure of this sierra as seen from a distance. Perhaps closer inspection would show that the view obtained from this point was in some respects deceptive. Of the compo- sition of the Sierra La Sal we know nothing except what was taught by the drifted materials brought down in the canons through which the dfainage from it flows. Of this transported material we saw but little, but that consisted mainly of trachytes. and porphyry, indicating that it is composed of erupted rocks similar to those which form the Sierra Abajo, of which it is in fact almost an exact counterpart. From the cliffs , over Ojo Verde we could see the strata composing both the upper and second plateaus, rising from the east, south, and southwest on to the base of the Sierra La Sal, each * conspicuous stratum being distinctly traceable in the walls of the cations and valleys which head in the sierra. It is evident, therefore, that the rocks composing the Colo- rado Plateau are there locally upheaved, precisely as around the Sierra Abajo and the other isolated mountains which I have already before enumerated, and to which I shall have occasion again to refer. VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. The general features of the trough of the Colorado, at the junction of Grand and Green Rivers, have been already sketched, but the detailed description of our ex- plorations of this remarkable region yet remains to be given. From the difficulties in the way of such exploration, reported by our scouts, it was not thought advisable to attempt to reach the river with our entire party. A depot camp was therefore estab- lished at Ojo Verde, where most of the men and animals remained, while a small de- tachment, with which I was connected, made the desired reconnoissance of this part of our route. Of this excursion I find in my journal the following descriptive notes : August 22.—Started this morning for the junction of Grand and Green Rivers, Captain Macomb, Lieutenant Cogswell, Mr. Dimmock, Mr. Campean, myself, and three servants forming the party. On leaving camp we struck southwest, gradually ascending for six miles, when we reached the brink of a magnificent canon twelve hundred feet in depth, called, from the prevailing color of its walls, Canon Colorado, into which with great difficulty we descended. The summits of the cliffs are here nearly five hundred feet above the Ojo Verde, composed of the same rock exposed v Lb Adotbesesee et EN TRS NAT Ye ) LFF x, LABY RINT i CAN eae ee fin" 94 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE there, the base of the section in Cation Pintado. The sandstone is here yellow or straw-color, very massive, without fossils, and very remarkably cross-stratified. About four hundred feet of this stratum are here exposed. Below this succeed one hundred and fifty feet of red, foliated sandstone, with some bands of red shale, precisely like the red sandstones of New Jersey and the Connecticut River Valley. Below this two hundred and seventy feet of reddish-brown sandstone, very massive, forming perpendicular faces. Still below, a series of green and red thin-bedded sandstones and red and purple shales, three hundred and fifty feet in thickness. The strata here rise gently to the westward, till, at a point ten miles from Camp 28, a low anticlinal crosses our route. From thence to the river the dip is westward. This part of the cafion is exceedingly grand and beautiful, both from the form and coloring of its walls. A few pitions and cedars cling to the sides and crown the summits of the walls, while scattered cottonwoods and thickets of willow, with here and there a small tree of a new and peculiar species of ash, form a narrow thread of vegetation along its bottom. This, and many similar gorges, form the channels through which the drainage of the western slope of the Sierra Abajo reaches the Col- orado. ‘Twelve miles west from the Ojo Verde the several canons unite by the elimi- nation of their dividing walls, and debouch into a comparatively open country. De- scending the cation we, therefore, at its mouth come out upon a third distinct plateau, from whiidh the mesa cut by the Cation Colorado has been removed; its edges reced- ing in magnificent broken walls south and northwest. From this point the view swept westward over a wide extent of country, in its general aspects a plain, but ever ywhere deeply cut by a tangled maze of cations, and thickly set w ith towers, castles, and spires of most varied and strikitig forms; the most wonderful monuments of erosion which our eyes, already experienced in objects of this kind, had beheld. Near the mesa we were leaving stand detached portions of it of every possible form, from broad, flat tables to slender cones crowned with pinnacles of the massive sandstone which forms the perpendicular faces of the walls of the Carion Colorado. These castellated buttes are from one thousand to fifteen hundred feet in height, and no language is ad- equate to convey a just idea of the strange and impressive scenery foxined by their erand and varied outlines. ‘Toward the west the view reached some thirty miles, there bounded by long lines and bold angles of mesa walls similar to those behind us, while in the intervening space the surface was diversified by columns, spires, castles, and battlemented towers of colossal but often beautiful proportions, closely resembling elaborate structures of art, but in effect far surpassing the most imposing monuments of human skill. In the southwest was a long line of spires of white stone, standing on red bases, thousands in numbe, but so slender as to recall the most delicate cary- ing in ivory or the fairy architecture of some Gothic cathedral ; yet many, perhaps most, were over five hundred feet in height, and thickly set in a narrow belt or series some miles in length. Their appearance was so strange and beautiful as to call out exclamations of delight from all our party. Next to the pinnacles the most striking objects in our view were buttes of dark, chocolate-colored rock, which had weathered into exact imitation of some of the feudal castles of the Old World; yet, like all the other features in the scene, they were on a , des > p «Ae a“ oe) TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 95 gigantic scale. ‘These buttes are composed of the liver-colored sandstones and choc olate shales of the walls of the Cavion Colorado, which consist of a great number of alternations of thinner or thicker layers of sandstone with those of shale. This strue- ture in erosion gives rise to many curious and beautiful results, such as a beaded ap- pearance in columns, while harder or thicker layers form their capitals and bases. — It also produces what seem to be walls of masonry, with frieze and cornice. Soon after issuing from the mouth of Cation Colorado, the little intermittent stream which traverses it begins to cut the floor of the rocky plain that borders the Colorado River, and, following that stream as the only possible avenue through which we could reach our destination, we were soon buried in a deep and narrow gorge, which is thence continuous till it joins the greater cation of Grand River. This eafion, from its many windings and the many branches which open into it, we designated by the name of Labyrinth Cafion. Its walls are from one to two hundred feet in height, so that there is no egress from it for many miles. The bottom is occupied with cotton-woods, and thickets of narrow-leayed willow, cane, and salt-bush; all of which, with fallen rocks, quicksands, and deep water-holes, made the passage through it almost impossible. Some two miles below the head of Labyrinth Canon we came upon the ruins of a large number of houses of stone, evidently built by the Pueblo Indians, as they are similar to those on the Dolores, and the pottery seattered about is identical with that before found in so many places. It is very old but of excellent quality, made of red clay coated with white, and handsomely figured. Here the houses are built in the sides of the cliffs. A mile or two below we saw others crowning the inaccessible summits—inac- cessible except by ladders—of picturesque detached buttes of red sandstone, which rise to the height of one hundred and fifty feet above the bottom of the caion. Simi- lar buildings were found lower down, and broken pottery was picked up upon the summits of the cliffs overhanging Grand River; evidence that these dreadful cations were once the homes of families belonging to that great people formerly spread over all this region now so utterly sterile, solitary, and desolate. At the ruined pueblos we reached the surface of the Carboniferous formation ; having passed through the entire thickness of the Gypsum series since leaving the Sage-plain. The complete section of the walls of the Cation Colorado continued to this point, is as follows: Feet. 1. Yellow massive calcareous sandstone, base of preceding section. - -- ---- - -- 400 2. Red micaceous sandstones, interstratified with red shales. ........--..------ 150 &. Red: atid. teary WinseteO: ROREOTIO. co. 4.60 ee gs a an beers aera ore 270 /4, Green and red shelly sandstones, and red shales, softer than No. 2.--..-.-.-- 350 )5. Greenish-pray micaceous: conglomerate... . . « aca new ws ih alive ice eno =a 25 Mite COO SEO RHTLUREO RES APCD N08, 0. UNL LR i ew eee rar TR ose ene an eon 12 15. Blue limestone, containing Athyris subtilita, Spirifer cameratus, &c., and other Carboniferous fossils. Descending the cafion till night came upon us, we made our camp under the over- hanging cliffs on the north side, where some pot-holes in the rocky bottom promised us a supply of water. August 23, Camp 29 to Grand River—Leaving servants and packs in camp, we to- day descended the Canon of Labyrinth Creek, to its junction with Grand River. Until within a mile of the junction, the character of the canonremains the same; a narrow gorge, with vertical sides, from 150 to 300 feet in height, its bottom thickly grown with bushes and obstructed with fallen rocks and timber, passable but with infinite difficulty. At the place mentioned above, however, our progress was arrested by a perpendicular fall, some 200 feet in height, occupying the whole breadth of the canon, and to reach Grand River it was necessary to scale the walls which shut us in. This we accomplished with some difficulty on the south side, to find ourselves upon the level of the rocky plain into which we sunk when entering the cation. The view we here obtained was most interesting, yet too limited to satisfy us. Looking down into the cafion we had been following, we could see it deepening by successive falls until, a mile below, it opened into the greater Canon of Grand River, a dark yawning chasm, with vertical sides, in which we caught glimpses of the river 1,500 feet below where we stood. On every side we were surrounded by columns, pinnacles, and castles of fantastic shapes, which limited our view, and by impassable cations, which restricted our movements. South of us, about a mile distant, rose one of the castle-like buttes, which I have already mentioned, and to which, though with difficulty, we made our way. This butte was composed of alternate layers of chocolate-colored sandstone and shale, about 1,000 feet in height; its sides nearly perpendicular, but most curiously orna- mented with columns and pilasters, porticos and colonnades, cornices and battlements, flanked here and there with tall outstanding towers, and crowned with spires so slender that it seemed as though a breath of air would suffice to topple them from their foun- dations. To accomplish the object for which we had come so far, it seemed necessary that we should ascend this butte. The day was perfectly clear and intensely hot; the mercury standing at 92° in the shade, and the red sandstone, out of which the land- | scape was carved, glowed in the heat of the burning sunshine. | Stripping off nearly all our clothing, we made the attempt, and after two hours of most arduous labor succeeded in reaching the summit. ‘The view which there burst upon us was such as amply repaid us for all our toil. It baffles description, however, and I can only hope that our sketches will give some faint idea of its strange and unearthly character. The great cation of the Lower Colorado, with its cliffs a mile in height, affords grander and more impressive scenes, but those haying far less variety and beauty of detail than this. from the pinnacle on which we stood the eye swept over an area some fifty miles in diameter, everywhere marked by features of more than ordinary TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 97 interest ; lofty lines of massive mesas rising in successive steps to form the frame of the picture ; the interval between them more than 2,000 feet below their summits. A great basin or sunken plain lay stretched out before us as on a map. Not a particle of vegetation was anywhere discernible; nothing but bare and barren rocks of rich and varied colors shimmering in the sunlight. Scattered over the plain were thousands of the fantastically formed buttes to which I have so often referred in my notes; pyramids, domes, towers, columns, spires, of every conceivable form and size. Among these by far the most remarkable was the forest of Gothic spires, first and imperfectly seen as we issued from the mouth of the Cafion Colorado. Nothing I can say will give an adequate idea of the singular and surprising appearance which they presented from this new and advantageous point of view. Singly, or in groups, they extend like a belt of timber for a distance of several miles. Nothing in nature or in art offers a parallel to these singular objects, but some idea of their appearance may be gained by imagining the island of New York thickly set with spires like that of Trinity church, but many of them full twice its height. Scarcely less striking features in the landscape were the innumerable cafions by which the plain is cut. In every direction they ran and ramified deep, dark, and ragged, impassable to everything but the winged bird. Of these the most stupendous was that of Grand River, which washes two sides of the base of the pinnacle on which we stood, a narrow chasm, as we estimated, full 1,500 feet in depth, into which the sun scarcely seemed to penetrate. At the bottom the whole breadth of this cation is occupied by the turbid waters of Grand River, here a sluggish stream, at least with no current visible to us who were more than 2,000 feet above it. In this great artery a thousand lateral tributaries terminate, flowing through channels precisely like that of Labyrinth Creek; underground passages by which inter- mittent floods from the distant highlands are conducted through this country, producing upon it no other effect than constantly to deepen their own’ beds. ‘Toward the south | the cation of Grand River was easily traced. Perhaps four miles below our position it | is joined by another great chasm coming in from the northwest, said by the Indians to be that of Green River. From the point where we were it was inaccessible, but we had every reason to credit their report in reference to it. After reaching the elevated point from which we obtained this view, I neglected to take the rest I so much needed, but spent the little time at my command in endeavor- ing to put on paper some of the more striking features of the scene before us. Stand- ing on the highest point, I made a hasty panoramic sketch of the entire landscape. The effort had, however, nearly cost me dear; for before I had completed the circle of the horizon I was seized with dreadful headache, giddiness, and nausea, and, alone as I then was, had the greatest difficulty in rejoining my companions. The greater part of the walls of the cation of Grand River are formed of Car boniferous rocks; the summits of the cliffs are, however, composed of Triassic red sandstone, the equivalent of those resting on the Carboniferous limestone on the Little Colorado and in the valley of the Pecos. The Carboniferous cannot, therefore, be said to be the surface formation anywhere in this region, as it is nowhere exposed except in the trough of the Colorado, and there in the canons. The composition of that portion of this formation to which I had access in the canon of Labyrinth Creek is as follows; the Triassic sandstone resting on the upper member of the section : 13 $ F Capt. J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. : Plate VII. J.J.YOUNG froma sketch by Df J.-S. NEWBERRY. ( Sinclair & HEAD OF CANON. COLORADO EROSION OF TRAASSAG -SERTES. 98 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE Section of Carboniferous rocks in Labyrinth Cafion. : Feet. 1. Blue slaty argillaceous limestone, with nodules of chert, and containing cri- noidal columns in great numbers, Athyris subtilita, Bellerophon, Productus, dc. 20 2. Massive blue limestone, portions of which are quite sandy, generally variable UE, CLREN = Carne EER ROE e o a ol OS a a co gh OE Sie a Ww any He 50 3. Slaty blue argillaceous limestone, somewhat cherty, crowded with fossils, among which are Athyris subtilita, Spirifer cameratus, Productus semireticulatus, P. scabriculus, P. Rogersi, P. punctatus, P. nodosus, Orthisina wnbraculum, Mya- lina ampla, Pleurotomaria eacelsa—a large and fine new species—Allorisma CU EUV ROO ee ae ecm aa gia ig Re BN ee ts 8 bai 4() Ce: Tener an em PO IORI cy ttle oC ee ket a my Sane we ky 6 5. Bluish-white, red or mottled sandy limestone, no fossils. .....--.---------- 35 res ClUMGTOOUS HUGS, NO TOSMUS wan . oo 245i ts Fk. kes oes eee ees 7 7. Red or bluish-white, mottled sandy limestone, massive, no fossils... ....---- 25 8. Coarse blood-red sandstone, in some localities becoming red shale, no fossils... 22 9. Hard blue cherty limestone, with a few fossils of the same species found in No. 3. 36 The last number of the series forms the fall or precipice which stopped our prog- ress down the cafion. The remainder of the section was inaccessible to us; as seen from aboye it seemed to consist of alternations of strata, similar to those already enumerated. If we may judge of the thickness of the Carboniferous formation in this vicinity by what it is lower down on the Colorado, we cannot suppose that the base of the series is reached in the cation of Grand River. On comparing this exposure of the Carboniferous strata with that at Santa Fé, described in Chapter II of this report, and those of the banks of the Colorado below the mouth of the Little Colorado, noticed in my report to Lieutenant Ives, Chapter VI, pp. 60 and 62, it will be seen that the fossils are generally identical; that, while two or three new species were added in each locality to the Carboniferous fauna of the Mississippi Valley, most of them are the same with the most common and characteristic fossils of our Coal-Measures in Illinois, Ohio, and Pennsylvania. In lithological characters there is a general correspondence between all the locali- ties in New Mexico where the Carboniferous rocks are fully exposed, but at Santa Fé there is a greater proportion of coarse material, sandstones and conglomerates, than at the more western localities. At Santa Fé, too, we find land-plants, characteristic Coal- Measure forms, and even a thin bed of coal; all of which indicate the immediate prox- imity of dry land. 7 Too little was learned of the lower part of the series on Grand River to enable ‘me to institute a fair comparison between the Carboniferous rocks at this locality and those on Cataract Creek, 150 miles below. In the upper part of the formation we find, however, here as there, cherty limestones with similar fossils, but the great beds of eypsum of Cataract Creek are certainly wanting here. Combining the sections exposed at different points along our route in our descent, step by step, from the summit of the Mesa Verde to the cation of Grand River, we have the following résumé of the strata and formations passed through : TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 99 General section of the Valley of the Colorado. No. | Strata. Feet. | Formation. Locality. 1 | Soft, yellow sandstones, alternating with gray, purple, and green- | ish marls, containing silicified coniferous wood..........-.----- 600 | Cretaceous. Mesa Verde. ~ 2 | Dark bitumino-calcareous shales, with concretions and thin bands of compact blue limestone weathering yellow. Fossils in the | upper part, immediately beneath No. 1, Ammonites placenta, Baculites anceps, Aporrhais Newberryi, &c.; toward the lower | | part, Inoceramus, Nautilus, Ostrea congesta, fish-scales -......-.---| 1,200 .... do ....- 22... Do Gray or dark-brown shales, with bands of dove-colored limestone weathering white, and thin layers of brown sandy limestone. | Fossils: Gryphaa Pitcheri, Inoceramus problematicus, I. fragilis, | Ammonites percarinatus, A. Macombi, Ostrea lugubris, O. uniformis, Ptychodus Whipplei, Lamna Texana, &6.....-2- .2ce0e weoes eenee | RGU jocss GO wune eon | Sage-plain. 4 Coarse, yellow sandstone, sometimes interstratified with beds of shale and lignite. Fossils: Leaves of angiospermous plants, Ne, Quy ous,” S863. SIo ees Sn fs FOC e eee OREO MA Eek 250 |.--.d0......-.. Do. 5 | Green and gray shales, and soft green or yellowish sandstones or i pane ; is COUTIOMERAUS ot sai eV dee wees Fda e ieee vo oF le Se Re enEe Gee < U0: {aed ease ees Edge of Sage-plain. 6 | Red and green shales, with bands of soft, white, red or greenish | | micaceous sandstones. Fossils: Saurian bones and silicified WOU sy'E Sore Rorxt MRSA ahs ot ER: . VAPOR TS « oe ee cis 350 , Jurassic? Canon Pintado. 7 | Red, yellow, or white massive calcareous sandstone. No fossils.... 550 Triassic. Do. 8 | Red, thin-bedded sandstones, with red shales. No fossils........-. | 180 Jac 0 Sie vees Do. 9 | Red and brown massive sandstone, fine-grained, not hard. No PORBEES eth ion. 24 we 0 ceed’ st. nddibotne sete bu bebabbin tl dees i. die DA oS Ounce se eee Colorado Cajon. 10 | Soft red sandstone, in thin layers, separated by beds of red or dark | DROWN SHALOM wae 6 ave sone ou bade thts 5. cee bak lis sc sans 1: 20: Pesce hecnlewton est Do. 11 | Greenish-gray micaceous conglomerate and gray sandstone, sepa- | Totes thy TOG UNG PUrpie GNMIGESE 2 cass OSs = eee 60ss8 soe s2 25s G2 {cess Go ota eee Do. Soft, liver-colored sandstones, becoming, suddenly and locally, | nearly white, with partings of shalS ars. et SO Ae | 350 | C0 w Obaromagy Do. 13 | Brick-red massive calcareous sandstones, with some like the last.... 164 |.-.. do..... 222. Do. 14 | Blue limestone, somewhat cherty. Fossils: Spirifer cameratus, Athyris sublilita, Productus semireticulatus .........222.----------| 110 | Carboniferous. Cates of Grand tiver. 15 | Bluish-white, red, or mottled sandy limestone, with partings of TOU QUO Gt Sasa sows 1p 0s.04'as ik ECE yee Meas cect sc Golson C0 > cust Do. 16 | Hard blue cherty limestone. Fossils same as No. 14.........-2--.-- BO dani gn EO d waeilods Do. 17 | Alternations of blue limestone, red and gray sandstone, to bottom | OF GBHON..... .00u saws see's cede et obo bauieet Lieey aise eweees cb owcc] 2, 000 j.2.3 0 -Givreuss Do. Finding it impossible to pass down in the vicinity of the Colorado to its junction with the San Juan, we were compelled to retrace our steps, and again ascending to the Sage-plain, crossed southwardly over its western extremity, along the eastern base of the Sierra Abajo, to the San Juan Valley. This part of our route afforded us little that was new in any department, and need not, therefore, long detain us. We found the structure of this portion of the Sage-plain precisely like that before passed over. The Lower Cretaceous sandstones everywhere form the surface-rock, except where covered with the overlying shales. The fossils of these shale-beds are often thickly scattered over the surface, as in many localities enumerated on the preceding pages. The plateau is here, as farther eastward, more or less broken by the canons of the draining streams. These head in the Sierra Abajo and progressively deepen until they terminate in the eroded valley of the San Juan. At various points along this part of our route we saw ruins of ancient buildings, similar in character to those on the Dolores; and fragments of broken pottery, an equally characteristic record. of the Pueblo race, were everywhere met with. Sierra Abajo—Our near approach to the Sierra Abajo, while skirting its northern and eastern bases, gave us a better knowledge of its extent and structure than we had before obtained. ‘The impressions we then received of it are given in the following extract from my notes: “August 30, Camp 31, Mormon Spring. Our last camp was 100 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA Ff at the eastern base of the Sierra Abajo. Within the last few weeks we have been on three sides of this sierra, and have learned its structure quite definitely. It is a mountain group of no great elevation, its highest point rising some 2,000 feet above _ the Sage-plain, or perhaps 9,000 feet above the sea. It is composed of several distinct ranges, of which the most westerly one is quite detached from the others. All these ranges, of which there are apparently four, have a trend of about 25° east of north, but being arranged somewhat en echelon, the most westerly range reaching farthest north, the principal axis of the group has a northwest and southeast direction. The sierra is composed geologically of an erupted nucleus, mainly a gray or bluish-white trachyte, sometimes becoming a porphyry, surrounded by the upheaved, partially eroded, sedimentary rocks. The Lower Cretaceous sandstones and Middle Cretaceous shales are cut and exposed in all the ravines leading down from it, while nearly the entire thickness of the Cretaceous series is shown in spurs which, in some localities, project from its sides; apparently the remnants of a plateau corresponding to, and once connected with, the Mesa Verde. Whether the Paleozoic rocks are anywhere exposed upon the flanks of the Sierra Abajo I cannot certainly say, though we dis- covered no traces of them. It is, however, probable that they will be found in some of the deeper ravines, where, as in most of these isolated mountains composed mainly of erupted material, they are doubtless but little disturbed, but are buried beneath the ejected matter which has been thrown up through them. The relations of the Cretaceous rocks to the igneous nucleus of the Sierra Abajo are very peculiar, for, although we did not make the entire circuit of the mountain mass, and I can, therefore, not speak definitely in regard to the western side. As far as our observations extended we found the sedimentary strata rising on to the trachyte core, as though it had been pushed up through them. TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 101 wae Pye ht. GEOLOGY OF THE BANKS OF THE SAN JUAN. GENERAL FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY BORDERING THE SAN JUAN—SECTION OF LOWER CRE- TACEOUS STRATA SOUTH OF SIERRA ABAJO—BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF COUNTRY BORDERING SAN JUAN—HIGH MESAS OF THE NAVAJO COUNTRY—TRIASSIC ROCKS OF LOWER SAN JUAN—LOWER CRETACEOUS STRATA OF CAMP 37—MIDDLE CRETACEOUS BEDS AND FOS- SILS SOUTH OF LE LATE—THE NEEDLES—THE CRESTON—UPPER CRETACEOUS STRATA AT MOUTH OF THE ANIMAS—RUINS IN THE SAN JUAN VALLEY—CANON LARGO—SECTIONS OF UPPER CRETACEOUS STRATA—PLATEAU COUNTRY BORDERING CANON LARGO—BUTTES OF MARLS AND SANDSTONES, HIGHEST MEMBERS OF THE SERIES OF SEDIMENTARY ROCKS COMPOSING COLORADO PLATEAU—GENERAL SECTION OF UPpER ORETACEOUS STRATA— NACIMIENTO MOUNTAIN, ITS STRUCTURE AND RELATIONS—NOTES ON THE DIFFERENT FOR- MATIONS EXPOSED ON ITS SIDES—JOURNEY THROUGH COUNTRY BORDERING WESTERN BASE OF NACIMIENTO MOUNTAIN—DIVIDE BETWEEN SAN JUAN AND Rio GRANDE—Movunt TAY- LOR—CABEZON—TERTIARY STRATA AT JEMEZ—THE VALLES—TRAP PLATEAUS. The great features in the structure of the country traversed by the San Juan River have been given in a preceding chapter, and there now remains for the comple- tion of the picture only the presentation of the more local details upon which the gen- eralizations before advanced were based. Anticipating in some degree the progress of our geological narrative, to render the subject more readily comprehensible, the following outline sketch of the geology of the immediate banks of the San Juan is here given: Taking their rise in the valleys dividing the parallel ranges of the Rocky Moun-° tains, Sierra de la Plata, Sierra de los Pinos, Sierra San Juan, &c., the tributaries of the San Juan unite in the open country lying south of these mountain ranges to form a chan- | nel of drainage, having nearly an east and west course, to the Colorado. In addition to the tributaries of the San Juan which have been enumerated, far less important ones flow from the east and south. These are the rivulet traversing Canon Largo, rising at the north end of the Nacimiento Mountain, the Chaco, Gothic Creek, and the Chelly, which drain the arid mesas of the Navajo country and the slopes of the Tunecha and Carrizo. The country tfaversed by the northern and more important branches of the San Juan, bordering our outward-bound trail, has been fully described in the preceding chapters. That bordering Cafion Largo and the course of the Chaco opens to us a new geological field, and one which includes the exposures of the highest portion of the »> Capt. J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate IX. 2 aetcy ies em cre > ee . : > . 7 U : guns — ~™> ee maw hein ga = aes Se} aseee abs Sate.» ‘ Sots “MO ip ie . ee AVE J.JS.YOUNG froma sketch by OF J S. NEWBERRY LOWER SAN. JUAN) LOORING WEST FROM NEAR CAMP 35. ’ 102 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE series forming the table-lands of the Colorado Plateau. | This interesting region requires for its full illustration the detailed description to be hereafter given. Its general character is, however, as foliows: _ The Nacimiento Mountain here bursts up through the table-lands in an unbroken wall forty miles in length, with a nearly north and south trend. On its western flank the various stratified rocks composing the Colorado Plateau lie inclined at a high angle with the horizon. Of these the Carboniferous series and the overlying Triassic forma- tion stand nearly vertical. Upon these the Lower and Middle Cretaceous groups rest with a gentler inclination, while the Upper Cretaceous sandstones, and perhaps Tertiary strata, are represented in detached buttes and mesillas, the remnants of continuous ' sheets mostly removed by erosion. A few miles westward the disturbing influence of the elevation of the Nacimiento range ceases to be visible, and the different stratified rocks, which I have enumerated, hold a nearly horizontal position, which they main- tain thence westward, with little variation, to and beyond the Colorado. Through the table-lands which they here form, Cafion Largo is excavated, gradually deepening till it joins the valley of the San Juan, where its walls have An altitude of 700 to 800 feet. At the eastern terminus of Canon Largo, and along the base of the Nacimiento Mount- ain, are scattered the insulated buttes to which I have before referred as representing the summit of the series of conformable strata composing the Colorado Plateau; a group of purple, white, and gray marls, interstratified with soft, yellow calcareous sandstones, the latter predominating as we descend, and forming what has been described in the preceding pages as the Upper Cretaceous group, containing, near its base, the fossils collected on the Rio de la Plata, Ammonites placenta, Baculites anceps, &¢.; a horizon probably corresponding to No. IV of Meek and Hayden’s Nebraska section. From the perfect conformability throughout this group of rocks, their general lithological simi- larity from summit to base, where they contain Cretaceous fossils; in short, from absence of proof to the contrary, I have been driven to include them all provisionally in the Cretaceous formation. It is by no means certain, however, that this classifica- tion is rigidly correct, for it is not impossible that future investigations will prove that the upper part of this group should be regarded as Eocene Tertiary. ‘That no Miocene beds occur here, is, I think, certain, as all the information obtained of the geology of the Rocky Mountain region goes to show that, between the time of the deposition of the Upper Cretaceous strata and the Miocene epoch, important changes occurred in the physical geography of the central portion of our continent—changes of level by which the conformability prevailing throughout the sedimentary strata, from the Silu- rian up, was finally interrupted. The only reasons we yet have for suspecting that the upper portion of the series on the San Juan is Tertiary, are the inordinate thick- ness—(if all Cretaceous) 3,000 to 4,000 feet—of the rocks which are more recent than the Triassic formation; and the more suggestive fact that, in Texas, the Eocene beds exhibit a marked lithological similarity to those forming the summit of the series at the head of Canon Largo, and follow the Cretaceous strata in perfect conformability. We can only say, therefore, that, with the evidence now before us, while it is possible, and perhaps probable, that the uppermost members of the Colorado series are Eocene Ter- tiary, we have as yet no proof that such is the case. TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 103 The area occupied by the most recent strata found in the San Juan country is but limited. The detached buttes which they form, and to which reference has before been made, stretch southwesterly from the north end of Nacimiento Mountain toward San Mateo, along the line of the divide between the Chaco and the Chelly; in other words, between the waters of the Rio Grande and those of the San Juan. Westward from this summit the table-land, which I have described in the preceding chapters as the pla- teau of the Upper San Juan, extends to the distance of one hundred miles or more, terminating in the mural faces of the Mesa Verde. Through this plateau Canon Largo and its continuation, the valley of the San Juan, are cut to the meridian of the Sierra de la Plata; thence, westward, the lower plateau of the Sage-plain stretches to the margin of the valley of the Colorado. In this lower plateau the trough of the San Juan is also deeply sunk; cutting through the Lower Cretaceous group, and exposing, especially toward its mouth, many hundred feet of the underlying Triassic formation, Throughout the whole of its course through the table-lands the valley of the San Juan is a narrow trough, bounded by abrupt, often perpendicular, rocky sides; its rich and verdant bottom-lands forming a thread of fertility which traverses a region elsewhere arid and barren. On our way south from the Sierra Abajo we struck the San Juan at a point some fifty miles or more above its mouth. Before descending from the plateau of the Sage- plain into the valley of the river, we obtained from several points views which swept over all the country bordering the lower part of its course. Of these that from the vicinity of Camp 33 was peculiarly comprehensive and grand; revealing features so novel and striking that I regarded them as worthy of somewhat detailed description in my note-book. That description is as follows : “Soon after leaving camp (33) we obtained a beautiful view of all the country bor- dering the Lower San Juan, of which nearly 10,000 square miles were at once visible. From this point the eye swept a great semicircle from the Sierra de la Plata in the east around southward to the Bear’s Ears in the west. From the Sierra de la Plata the long line of the lofty Mesa Verde stretched southward to the valley of the San Juan, there terminating in high and abrupt cliffs. In the open valley of the river stood the isolated pinnacles of the Needles, a peculiar and picturesque feature even at this great distance. In the southeast the bold front of the northern end of the Sierra del Carrizo rose frown- ingly from the immediate borders of the valley, and stretched away southward in a succession of peaks till lost in the distance. “Directly south the view was bounded by the high and distant mesas of the Na- vajo country, succeeded in the southwest by the still more lofty battlements of the great white mesa formerly seen by us from the Moqui Villages, and described in my report to Lieutenant Ives. Of these high table-lands the outlines were not only distinctly visible, but grand and impressive at the distance of a hundred miles. Nearly west from us a great gap opened in the high table-lands which limit the view in that direction; that through which the San Juan flows to its junction with the Colorado. The features presented by this remarkable gate-way are among the most striking and impressive of any included in the scenery of the Colorado country. The distance between the mesa walls on the north and south is perhaps ten miles, and scattered over the interval 104 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE are many castle-like buttes and slender towers, none of which can be less than 1,000 feet in height, their sides absolutely perpendicular, their forms wonderful imitations of the structures of human art. Illuminated by the setting sun, the outlines of these sin- gular objects came out sharp and distinct, with such exact similitude of art, and con- trast with nature as usually displayed, that we could hardly resist the conviction that we beheld the walls and towers of some Cyclopean city hitherto undiscovered in this far-off region. Within the great area inclosed by the grander features I have enu- merated, the country is set with numberless buttes and isolated mesas, which give to the scene in a high degree the peculiar character I have so often referred to-as exhib- ited by the eroded districts of the great central plateau. Here and there we caught glimpses of the vivid green of the wooded bottom-lands of the river, generally con- cealed by the intermediate and overhanging cliffs.” The general geological structure of the wide area then seen was nearly as intelli- gible and apparent as it could have been upon closer inspection; the higher mesas everywhere composed of the Upper Cretaceous strata—isolated portions of a once con- tinuous sheet; the plateau on which we stood the massive sandstones and conglomerates of the Lower Cretaceous group; while the bottom of the trough of the San Juan, where exposed, showed the blood-red tint of the Triassic rocks. Near Camp 34 we descended from the plateau of the Sage-plain and encamped in the valley of the Rito del Sierra Abajo, a few miles above its junction with the San Juan. In this descent we passed over the cut edges of all the members of the Lower Cretaceous group, which afforded me the following section: Section of Lower Cretaceous strata at Camp 34. Feet. = . Dove-colored calcareous shale, with Gryphea Pitcheri, in knolls on No. 2. 2. Yellow, coarse sandstone, often a conglomerate, with pebbles of black and WHR Mise by 500s cee occ. ca 5. opie ok ee 25 3. Gray shale, with lignite and silicified wood ......./.: 2.00.0... Me 12 4. Yellowish, coarse sand-rock, with pebbles of flint (locally), sometimes mas- SVG, deutiy Wane, UarZose 3... 52 ok en. eee 50 Dp, Seeeen WIR a tc Ree ee eee eee 2 6. Massive, nearly white sand-rock; the same noticed on the Dolores at Tierra _ STN OONE cig ace ae a Cee OUR Ts coon ec ee 16 7. Yellowish-white sand-rock, with pebbles of flint...........0..50.42.2-.. 12 8. Soft greenish-yellow sandstone, massive, but easily decomposed........--- 10 9. Verdigris-green concretionary, hard calcareous sandstone.............---- 2 10. Green and chocolate shales, with bands of fine argillaceous and calcareous wasn Us po Vera colois. US ae. oo oes 30 $i; Deeeoman-youow sanustom. <2. rs a a ee 29 12. Green, chocolate, purple, pink, and white marls, with concretionary bands of similar colors of hard, fine argillo-silicious rock ..............2-.-2----- 110 an Urstiomeyomow sundsend) tke NO, LPs. eo oS See 85 14. Soft greenish sandstone, decomposing like No. 8..........-. preter ss. Fe 8 TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 105 Feet. 15. Soft greenish sandstones and shales, alternating with and replacing each other. 140 Locally, this group is very massive, hard, almost quartzose, like No. 4; in other places, almost replaced by greenish shales. This is probably the base of the Cretaceous system. Continuing the section down the valley of the Rito to the San Juan, we have— 16. Red, white, and greenish thin-bedded micaceous sandstones, alternating with red shales—the Saurian beds of Camp 26, No. 2 of section on page 91... -. 130 17. Red, massive, cross-stratified calcareous sandstones—No. 3 of section of Camp 26; No. 1 of section—(p. 95,) to river-bottoms -...------.-.--.------- 160 The last two members of the section evidently represent the upper portion of the Gypsum formation (Trias.) They form the cliffs immediately bordering the valley of the river at Camp 35, and the trough in which it flows from Camp 36 to its mouth. The second bench, or higher cliffs bordering the valley at Camp 35, composed of the Lower Cretaceous rocks, contain conglomerates—the equivalents of the upper members of the preceding section—much coarser than those observed farther north; the pebbles being frequently as large as the fist, with only sufficient paste to cement them. Among these pebbles I noticed several composed of silicified wood, probably derived from the erosion of the Triassic rocks. In the trough of the San-Juan, at this point, are extensive beds and terraces, com- posed of coarse gravel and bowlders, evidently brought down by the river from the mountain-ranges which it drains, and, in some instances, the bowlders must have been rolled by the stream fully two hundred miles from their place of origin. The structure of the country about Camp 37 is quite fully given in my journal. My notes are as follows: ‘That portion of the valley of the San Juan passed through to-day is, in its general aspects, similar to that before described, but the cliffs border- ing it are less continuous and abrupt. In many places they are 300 or 400 feet high, perfect cafion walls, but oftener they recede from the river, leaving open areas; the mouths of lateral valleys cutting up through the mesas toward the mountains. ‘““Geologically as physically, we have ascended considerably, and have just sunk the ‘Saurian rocks’ (Upper Triassic?), leaving the cliffs bordering the valley com- posed exclusively of Lower Cretaceous strata. During the greater part of to-day’s march thin-bedded Triassic sandstones and shales formed the base of the wall along which we passed. These rocks are here more argillaceous than farther north, contain much saline matter, but no beds of gypsum, and no fossils so far as obseryed.” By reference to my report on the geology of the Colorado expedition, it will be seen that farther south they are still less sandy; at the Moqui Villages, consisting mostly of soft red and green mars. The Lower Cretaceous strata are here more fully exposed, and have a greater thickness than where examined farther north and east; approaching more nearly the character exhibited by this group at the Moqui Villages. The cliffs near camp are composed of— Feet 1. Yellow, coarse sandstones and conglomerates; floor of Sage-plain........--. 200 2 ECT AEE RUNES cs sb obey Ew, da kok ss oe eit 175 Aa Greenish-yellow sandstones and PY ORUMIEDRUGNU Pes i oe ew eet ed uence 250 148 F Capt _J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate X. ve ; ¥ 43 4 2M Ele Bikey A J.YOUNG froma sketch by Of J.-S. NEWBERRY tHE NEEDLES, LOOKING Semi -wWeStekLy. 106 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE The character of the subdivisions will be better seen by the following analysis: Ist. Yellow sandstone group; here less coarse and containing less conglomerate than at camps 33, 34, and 35. As at those localities, on the Cimarron, in Kansas and Nebraska a portion of this group is here an exceedingly hard, whitish, quartzose sand- stone. Beds of lignite and silicified wood are common. 2d. Greenish shales and sandstones; the same group described in my notes on the geology of the vicinity of Camp 34, Nos. 10, 11, 12 of section, page 104, here much less highly colored, consisting of thick beds of greenish shale, locally pink or purple, with bands of yellowish, greenish or purple concretionary silicious rock; no fossils. 38d. Greenish sandstones and shales; the same group exposed in the lower part of the section at Camp 34. The shales and sandstones frequently replace each other; the group at Camp 37 being nearly all massive, yellowish-green sandstone, while, a few miles below, the shales greatly predominate; no fossils discoverable. “Mouth of the Mancos——Camp 88, thirteen miles. We have to-day ascended in the geological scale, have nearly submerged the lowest member of the section at Camp 37, and the mesas back from the river on the north side run far up into the Middle and Upper Cretaceous group. On the south side the mesas are not as high; the Lower Cretaceous rocks forming the surface almost to the Sierra Carrizo, near which the Upper Cretaceous beds appear again. The mesas north of our camp, composed of the Middle Cretaceous strata,"extend north and east to the base of the Sierra Le Late, and, if not cut off by the valley of the Mancos, would connect with the Mesa Verde. As usual in all this region, the shales contain great numbers of Gryphaa Pitcheri. “In the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, I here find impressions of dicotyledonous loaves, similar to those found on the Dolores and elsewhere. “As in other parts of the valley of the San Juan which we have passed through, the rains of ancient buildings are here very frequently met with; some in the open ground of the valley, some in or on the cliffs; all built of stone, surrounded by broken pot- tery, evidently the remains of that great Pueblo race which once occupied all this region, but which is now without an inhabitant. “Camp 38, 39, 15 miles—In our march of to-day, a marked change has taken place in the valley of the San Juan, which has become more open, is bounded by less high aid abrupt walls; the bluffs, like the bottom, being covered with fine grass. This change is dependent, mainly, upon the fact that we haye ascended from the Lower to the Middle Cretaceous strata, and have passed from a region of coarse massive sandstones to one where almost nothing but soft-blue shales are visible. “Betore leaving the Lower Cretaceous sandstones, some interesting local peculiari- ties were noticed in that group. The lignite, which in greater or less quantity they always contain, about and above the mouth of the Mancos becomes a very conspicu- ous feature in their structure. Of one cliff which we passed, not more than 100 feet in height, full one-half was composed of carbonaceous matter. ‘The dip, as before, is gently eastward, and at Camp 39 the Lower Cretaceous sandstones had entirely disap- peared beneath the overlying rocks. “Here the cliffs near the river are composed of the dark shales of the Middle Cre- > TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 107° taceous series, quite rich in fossils. Perhaps a hundred feet above the sandstones is a band of brown, shelly, sandy limestone, which forms a projecting ledge in the face of the cliffs, giving cornices and capitals to the castles and palaces into which they have been worn. ‘This ferruginous stratum marks a distinct horizon, and may be traced over an immense area in New Mexico. It is the same that I have before referred to in my notes on the banks of the Dolores, Camp 21, the Pagosa, the ford of the Chama, Galisteo, and the banks of the Canadian. This stratum is characterized by the following fossils: Inoceramus problematicus, Ostrea lugubris, Scaphites larviformis, Ptychodus Whip- plei, &c. Several undescribed species of Inoceramus, Ostrea, Ammonites, &e., are also found in it; one of the Znocerami, abundant at Camp 39, being 2-3 feet in diameter. The place of Gryphea Pitcheri is just beneath this stratum; while the overlying shales are filled with fragments of a large Inoceramus, covered with the closely-set shells of Ostrea congesta. “A few miles north of Camp 39 is the southwestern corner of the Mesa Verde, which stretches from this point northward to our former trail, and, eastward, forms the north bank of the San Juan as far as the eye can reach. It has an a'titude of 2,000 feet above camp, and presents, with its many detached buttes and pinnacles, its long and lofty walls, a most grand and imposing object. On the south side of the river, now quite near to us, stand out in strong relief the picturesque basaltic pinnacles of ‘The Needles,’ while further south the view is bounded by the high ridges of the Carisso and Tunecha Mountains.” From Camp 40 we obtained a nearer and still better view of “The Needles,” which is represented in the accompanying lithograph plate. This is a mass of erupted rock, rising with perpendicular sides from the middle of the valley. From all points, where seen by us, it has the appearance of an immense cathedral, of rich umber-brown color, terminating in two spires. Its altitude is about 1,700 feet above its base; above the river 2,262 feet. It is everywhere surrounded by stratified rocks, and its isolated position and peculiar form render its origin a matter of some little doubt. My conviction, however, is very decided that its remarkable relief is due to the washing away of the sediments which once surrounded it, and which formed the mold in which it was cast. In no other way can I imagine its vertical faces of 1,000 feet to have been formed. For ten miles after leaving Camp 40 we were traveling along the trough of the river excavated in the Middle Cretaceous shales; the Upper Cretaceous sandstones cap- ping the bluffs on either side. We here reached what seemed to be, in the distance, a _ mesa wall crossing the river. This proved, however, to be a mass of dislocated and ruptured strata, forming a huge broken wall, similar to that described in the Geology of the Colorado Expedition, page 95, called by the Mexicans the Creston. This wall marks a great line of fracture which traverses the country in a zigzag course from the Sierra de la Plata southward toward the Tunecha Mountains. It crosses the river nearly at right angles, with a trend N. 20° W. magnetic, forming a wall several hun- , dred feet high, cut by the river in a narrow passage, through which we worked our way with extreme difficulty. ee The Creston evidently once formed a dam across the valley of the San Juan, over 108 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FB which its waters poured in a cascade. This is shown by the gravel terrace which, east of it, rises to the height of 300 feet above the present bed of the stream. The strata composing it are set at an angle of about 35°, and are the equivalents of those which form the greater part of the Mesa Verde. As affording a more complete section of the Upper Cretaceous rocks in this region than any I had before observed, I ex- amined them with some care, and found them to consist of the following elements : Section of rocks composing the Creston. : Feet 1. Yellowish-brown calcareous sandstone, wenerally thick-bedded............ 260 »8 J. 2. Yellowish-brown sandy shale, with thin bands of sandstone and beds of lic- aA ? D DUO. - wie ca eet ee Sey eg ee i a Be ete eee es 150 3. Yellowish sandy limestone, with strata of hard blue limestone..........._. 70 4. Dove-colored and purplish shales, with beds of impure lignite............ 175 pur] ) g 5. Gray and purple shales, with bands of sandy limestone, and lines of conere- y and pur} ) 4 ; _ tions of umber-colored and purple iron-stones .....-........2.22..2.- 200 b, Sst CURCREGLGn RAMON OUCEMe < eeo SL oe eek ee ek See 20 7. Gray and purplish shales, with bands of ferruginous sandy limestone .... .- 170 8. Yellowish-brown sandstones, whitish above .......--- oe Soe ee 150 9. Gray and blue shales, continuous with those of Camps 39 and 40. In this section, No. 1 is geologically the highest, and forms the most elevated por- tion of the Creston. The shales of No. 9 immediately overlie the ferruginous limestone of Camp 39, which contains so many Inocerami, fish-teeth, &e. The interval between these two groups represents the middle and upper portions of the great group of shales which form the middle division of the Cretaceous system, so often referred to in the preceding pages. . As in the sections observed on the northern route, the bands of sandstone and fer- ruginous sandy limestone are shown to be only local phenomena; since they sometimes expand and assume great local importance, and again disappear and give place to a nearly homogeneous mass of calcareous shales, 1,300 to 1,500 in thickness. Among the strata forming the Creston are several beds of lignite, of which one, six feet thick, visible for many miles along the river, is unusually compact and pure ; in its general appearance precisely resembling some of the coal strata of the Carbon- iferous series. No fossils were discovered in any of the rocks here exposed above the Inoceramus limestone, but probably impressions of plants would be obtained from the shales over the lignite beds, if time were given to search for them. From the Creston to the mouth of Cation Largo the banks of the San Juan are composed throughout of the strata which have just been enumerated, lying in unbroken sheets, with a gentle easterly dip. In these strata the valleys of the San Juan, La Plata, and Animas have been deeply cut, and are bounded by abrupt, frequently per- pendicular walls, the edges of table-lands, many hundred feet in height. The bottom- lands of these valleys, though narrow, are fertile; sustaining a vigorous growth of grass, enone TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 109 and along the margin of the streams groves of cottonwood, and thickets of willow and buffalo-berry (leagnus argenteus ?). Though now entirely deserted, these valleys were once occupied by a dense pop- ulation, as is shown by the extensive ruins with which they are thickly set. Those on the Animas, twenty miles above its mouth, have already been noticed. At the junction of this stream with the San Juan the remains of a large, but very ancient, town are visible, the foundations of many buildings of considerable size still remaining, and traces of an acequia through which water was brought from a point some miles above on the Animas. ne Near Camp 43 also are the ruins of several large structures, of which portions of the walls of stone are still standing, twenty or more feet.in height. Indeed, it may be said that from the time we struck the San Juan we were never out of sight of ruins, while we were following up its valley. CANON LARGO. At Camp 44 we left the valley of the San Juan and entered the mouth of Canon Largo, which we followed up in an easterly direction until, at its head, near the western base of the Nacimiento Mountain, we came out on to the surface of the great plateau of the Upper San Juan, through which we had been so long passing, sunk far below its surface in the excavated valleys which intersect it. Of these valleys Canon Largo may be taken as atype. It differs in nothing from that of the San Juan or Animas, except that, instead of a large perennial stream, a small, generally dry, arroyo traverses its bottom, and its bounding cliffs, composed of the upper strata of the table-lands, exhibit geological features not met with in other portions of our route. By the easterly dip of the rocks and the rapidity of the fall of the stream, we were constantly ascending in the series from the Creston to the head of Canon Largo. At the mouth of the Animas we had nearly sunk the whole of the Middle Cretaceous group, its upper members (gray shales and marls) forming the base of the high cliffs, composed mainly of the Upper Cretaceous sandstortes, here very massive, and showing a thick- ness of 600 to 700 feet. At the mouth of Caton Largo we had risen still higher in the series, the Middle Cretaceous shales having entirely disappeared; the lofty cliffs which bound the valley at this point being formed entirely of the Upper Cretaceous rocks, alternations of soft yellow sandstones and white, gray, or purple marls. The lowest member of this series here is the same with that which forms the summit of the Creston section, and more fully exposed at the mouth of the Animas, where it presents perpen- dicular faces of 300 to 400 feet of massive, homogeneous, soft, yellow, calcareous sand- stone. to the Nacimiento Mountain, and north to the bases of the Sierra de la Plata, Sierra _ San Juan, Navajo, &c., all of which were in full view. South and west higher por- tions of the plateau limited my vision. On this plain I noticed islands of higher strata than those on which I stood. These are 300 or 400 feet in thickness, and of the same general character as the walls of Cation Largo. Adding these to the strata exposed in Canon Largo, and those noticed in the San Juan above the mouth of the Animas, and we have an aggregate thickness of about 1,500 feet for this upper series alone. In my notes made at Camp 47, I find the following memoranda: “In the expos- ures I have now examined of the Upper Cretaceous (?) strata, I have enumerated eleven beds of sandstone, with an equal number of marl-beds. The ageregate force of these two groups is nearly the same, though each stratum is liable to great local variation ; the section at one point being considerably different from that at others. The sand- stones are quite variable in thickness, both as regards the same stratum at different places, and comparing the different beds with each other. The summit of the cliffs along Carion Largo is formed of a group of sandstones of unusu; ickness, in places full 200 feet, with only thin partings of marl. This stratum ne the beds _ below and produced the -abruptness of the walls. It forms the floor of the adjactyy Msn Sage-plain, from which the upper layers, being softer, have been removed by erosion.” Bats At Camp 48 I write: “To-day left Canon Largo and came out on the plateau ie a Ta Capt. J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate XI. nist RT iy npn a & 2 re J.J.YOUNG froma sketch by Df J §. NEWBERRY. THE CABAZON FROM NEAR CAMP 54. Nites. a . > 112 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE before mentioned. A sage-plain with rolling surface, fashioned by erosion, on which rise the extreme Upper Cretaceous (?) strata in buttes and detached mesas.” One of these buttes at Camp 48 afforded me the following section : Feet. 1, Doll Seno aapGsionon. <> Sewer ern Mee, See Sy Serpe. oe ee . 60 Fe CHO SIIS LENE LTiS Mamee eee te eeeeeteer eme 70 3. Soft yellow sandstone with large concretions, weathering brown..........--- 50 4, Marl, greenish-white above, purple below.:.....-..-..-------....----:.- 75 5. Soft white sandstone with hard coneretions-........-.--..........-2-.--- 20 6. Marls, greenish-white above, purple below, with concretions of silicious lime- SEO a tet eae eee hay G Sime mney webu La TRA 50 45 ROGET eC ISeT OCR ENAIS pal a Od a OSE ca Licarng ww, SENONES oe eee a2 30 Ors GREOMISN- Wie ABU, PUNO MONE. kas hn ek pe wwe wt wed Gee eee. 90 This series should be added to that of the cliff at Camp 46. Just before reaching the base of the Nacimiento Mountain, we crossed the divide between the Pacific and Atlantic, and reached the highest point, geologically, attained on any part of our route. The immediate base of the mountain is swept by a line of drainage which flows south along its western side, around its southern extremity passes into the Puerco, and thence into the Rio Grande. The line of divide diverges from the north end of the Nacimiento Mountain, running southwesterly to San Mateo and the Sierra Madre. For at least a hundred miles it stretches across the table-lands unmarked by any disruption of the strata or line of upheaval. The crest of the water-shed is here formed of series of buttes and mesas com- posed of soft, marly strata: the extreme summit of the great group, which, on nega- tive rather than positive evidence, I have designated as Upper Cretaceous. BUTTES WEST OF THE NACIMIENTO MOUNTAIN (EOCENE TERTIARY (?). These buttes include about 400 feet of strata not included in the sections before given, ‘They are as follows: j Feet 1, Sott yellow sandstone . 22.0 .S0. 2... 022i te eee eee 40 2. Parplé, yellow, and greenish soft marls . 2520227222 ees 60 3. Soft yellow sandstone. .-. ss. 2.5. oe eee ee 4. Green, purple, yellow, and white marls, with thin layers of white sandstone. . 70 5. White ‘sandstone. Petey. vane 0 ore eee 25 6. Gresh tnd ptrnplo. mani’: sages oP. Se ee ee eee ee 80 {. Uoarse, Wiite: sandsione: Po. Press a ee eee 20 &: Witte uh parple merle ss vie rc a Pe ree oes ee ee 50 9. Soft yellow sandstone, summit of cliff in section at Camp 48. These strata are all conformable among themselves and to those below ; lying nearly or quite horizontal. The marls of this series are darker than those of the preceding sections, having a purplish-green appearance at a distance. .The sandstones are very soft, and being thinner than the marls they form but a slight interruption to the uni- formity of the slope of the sides of the buttes, and are scarcely noticeable, except ‘TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 113 \ when quite near. No fossils were found in any part of this section, and the abun- dance of selenite and the profuse efflorescence of the sulphates of alumina, magnesia, &e., seem to indicate the prevalence of conditions unfavorable to life during the depo- sition of these strata, as well as in the similar non-fossilliferous marls of the Trias. Combining the sections observed at various points between the mouth of the Animas and the Nacimiento Mountain, we have, for the aggregate thickness of the conforma- ble and generally similar strata resting upon the Middle Cretaceous shales, 2,000 feet, made up as follows : Feet. 1. Marls and sandstone COLIN CARON Oe “CLWMMan et ots. sees cl ssl]. 380 2. Marls and sandstone section at Camp 48.............---+-..2-0----00- 445 3. Marls and sandstone section at Camp 46..-....-2.--....-..2.2-2+----- 674 4, Marls and sandstone in Peet POR SUR es 2s opps ewes s+ wu cs .3 - 2500 RAR not ae PR Ree Dee Feta esas + aK e Mews» 22 1, 999 It may be suspected, from the many alternations of similar strata in the preceding sections, that there has been in some cases a repetition, but that is quite certainly not the case. Although no fossils were found which might serve as criteria for the iden- _ tification of strata, the geological exposures are so fuil that all the more important beds may be traced without break or interruption, and the order of superposition accurately determined by simple inspection of the interlocking of the different sections. In meas- uring altitudes the barometer was constantly used, and the heights of inaccessible points frequently obtained by triangulation. “By these means, and the use of Locke’s level where necessary, all the generalities of the thickness of strata were determined with a good degree of accuracy. As regards the question of the precise geological age of this great group of sand- stones and marls, as I have stated in the earlier part of this chapter, we have not, as yet, the means of arriving at a perfectly satisfactory conclusion. ‘The lower part of the series is, we know, Cretaceous; as it contains characteristic fossils of No. lV of Meek and Hayden’s Nebraska section. The most natural inference, therefore, is, that a portion at least of the overlying beds represent the upper part of No, IV and No, V of the Nebraska section. Since there are no fossils in the upper beds, and since they are apparently conformable to the lower, and generally similar to them in lithological characters, we have evidence that they were deposited while the physical conditions of this portion of the continent remained essentially the same. In one sense, therefore, they do all belong to one great geological epoch, and, without evidence to the con- trary, should be classed together. This argument, however, has little force, for, as we have seen, all the sedimentary strata of the Colorado plateau are conformable; and there is unusual similarity of lithological charaeter among those which we know, by their fossils, belong to different formations. ‘That none of these strata are Miocene may be safely affirmed, as previous t> that_epoch'great and radical changes were effected in the physical geography of our continent, and the uniformity which had characterized the deposition of the sediments forming the great central plateau was entirely broken up; the sea retreating from the 15 8 F 114 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE central portion of the continent, throwing down its sediments only along the shores and up the valley of the Mississippi; the inland Miocene-Tertiary having been deposited in bodies of fresh water. It is possible, however, that some portion of this series is of Eocene age, though of this we have as yet no proof. It is true that, in Texas, the Kocene beds, distinctly marked by their fossils, are lithologically similar to some of those under consideration, and they are there entirely conformable to the Cretaceous strata, of which they seem but a continuation; the two formations blending and not separable by any sharp lines of demarcation. NACIMIENTO MOUNTAIN. Though not a lofty or extensive mountain range, this is perhaps the most instruct- ive and interesting of all those which I had an opportunity of examining in the western country. Its extreme altitude is about 10,000 feet; its length something like 50 miles. Throughout this distance it forms a single simple ridge of nearly uniform height, with no peaks nor depressions. At either end it gradually falls off, and is lost in the level of the plateau country which nearly surrounds it. Although its physical features are so unpretending, its geological structure is in the highest degree Interesting and sug- gestive; such indeed that it seems to me it not only furnishes a key to the mode of formation of all the great ranges of the Rocky Mountain system to which it belongs, but that, if properly studied, it would serve to explain nearly all the difficulties of that now much-mooted subject, the origin of mountain chains. What its structure is may be very briefly told. The central core or axis of the Nacimiento Mountain is composed of massive red _ granite, similar to that so common in the other ranges of the Rocky Mountain system. This forms its summit and the greater part of its mass. Upon the slope of the granite axis rests the Carboniferous formation, for the most part limestone, in many places nearly vertical, yet but slightly metamorphosed. Outside of the Carboniferous are the white and red sandstones, marls, and gypsums of the Trias; many of these beds also standing quite vertical, but wholly unchanged. Outside of the Trias the Lower Cre- taceous rocks form another distinct circle; beyond these, the Middle Cretaceous shales ; still beyond, the great group of Upper Cretaceous sandstones and marls, which I have just described. When we stood on the summit of the mountain all these different formations were spread out before us as on a geological map, each distinguishable by its color or texture, and as readily recognized as though traced on a diagram for a lecture-room. The impression produced upon my mind by our first ascent of the Sierra de Naci- miento may be gathered from the following extracts from my notes: “After arriving in camp (50) I went over with Mr. Fisher to the Nacimiento Mountain, which we ascended. Our approach was up a beautiful but narrow valley, through which a clear, cold stream flows for some distance, then sinks and rises at intervals, forming a series of fine springs. The vegetation of thi$ valley is almost identical with that of the valleys of our northern route; the elevation being nearly the same—7,500 feet. ‘The timber is yellow pine, pifion, cedar, (two species,) bitter and sweet cotton-wood, Gambell’s oak, and the narrow-leaved willow.* On the summit of —— —_—_—_—__- —_——_-— nf rn — ———— $$$ $$ * Pinus ponderosa, P. edulis, Juniperus tetragona, J. virginiana, Populus angustifolia, P. monilifera, Quercus Gambelli, Salix angustifolia. TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 115 the mountain, Douglas’ spruce, yellow pine, the western balsam-fir, with thickets of aspen, oak, maple, and red-flowered locust.* As we progressed we passed in succes- sion over the upturned edges of all the sedimentary rocks seen on our route. 1. The Upper Cretaceous sandstones and marls, but slightly inclined, and not reaching within two or three miles of the mountain. 2. The Middle Cretaceous shales, forming a broad belt of clay-soil, from which project here and there ledges of the harder strata, filled with the fossils characteristic of this formation—Inoceramus problematicus, Gryphea Pitcheri, Ostrea congesta, &e. 3. The Lower Cretaceous sandstones, from their hard and massive character, hay- ing resisted erosion, are now forming hills and cliffs of considerable height. 4, The Triassic formation; its soft red marls, forming bare surfaces of blood-red color, its sandstones standing out in strong relief, forming walls and palisades, often nearly vertical, sometimes 40 or 50 feet in height, and only 5 or 6 feet in thickness. 5. The Carboniferous series, mostly massive gray or whitish limestone, reaching far up on the mountain sides, scarcely at all metamorphosed, and filled with fossils. 6. A central core or axis of red granite forming the great mass of the range. Our view from the summit was particularly fine. Immediately below us the dif- ferent formations which I have enumerated were distinctly visible, running in parallel bands along the mountain side. Some five miles north of our position the range falls off and disappears in the plain, but the line of upheaval is distinctly marked by an arching of the unbroken sedimentary rocks. The upper part of the arch is removed, and the surface-rock is a pure white sandstone, probably Triassic, beneath which the ~ “red beds” appear, forming on the east side of the mountain a beautiful rose-red valley. On the north we had a complete panorama of the mountains passed on our outward route, a view sweeping from the Santa I*é and Taos Mountains to the Sierra de la Plata, Toward the west stretched a vast plain, deeply scored by many lines of erosion, of which Canon Largo may be taken as a type. ‘This plateau—the San Juan division of the great Colorado Plateau—filled all the horizon, from the Sierra la Plata around to San Mateo, the distant summits of the Carrizo and Chusca being just perceptible above its surface. This great Cretaceous plain sweeps up with nearly horizontal strata to the base of the Nacimiento; the series being most complete, the strata still horizontal, six miles west of the mountain. At this point all the formations begin to rise toward the east; their angles of elevation becoming greater as they approach the granitic axis, where they are frequently quite vertical. The Nacimiento axis is here and farther north the great divide between the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic, though, as before stated, the drainage of most of its western slope passes around the south end into the Puerco; the crest of the water-shed being formed by a line of high table-lands, which passes southwesterly between the head-waters of the Chaco and the Puerco toward Mount Taylor (San Mateo). The line of upheaval which forms the divide at Camp- bell’s Pass, is widely different from the Nacimiento axis, being indeed no other than that of the Sierra Madre, which is entirely lost northward, as we saw no indication of it on the San Juan. After leaving Camp 50, we made several days’ marches southward, skirting the * Populus remuloides, Quercus Gambelli, Acer. sp. Robinia Neo Mexicana, 116 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE western base of the Nacimiento Mountain, until, reaching a practicable pass near its southern extremity, we crossed over to the peublo of Jemez. The country traversed in this part of our route we found to be much like the foot-lill region bordering the northern mountains, very picturesque, well watered, covered with fine timber, the valleys: rich and productive, but from their great elevation early touched with frost and doubtless very cold in midwinter. Here, as almost everywhere else on our route, we found numerous ruins of stone-built structures, evidence of the presence in ancient time of a large population, where now neither Indian nor white man dwells. In geology our experience was for the most part but a repetition of that already described, as we were passing in review all the strata before so fully examined in the valley of the San Juan. ! The exposures were here, however, exceedingly full and satisfactory, and I had constantly reeurring opportunities of testing the accuracy of the classification pre- viously adopted. That the evidence furnished by our observations in this interesting region may be consulted in the solution of any question that may be raised in regard to the geological strueture of this portion of New Mexico, I transcribe from my note-book some of the records made from day to day as we progressed on our journey. “September 21, Camp 50 to 51.—To-day we followed south along the western base of the Nacimiento Mountain, over a rolling surface, crossing many wooded hills and pretty valleys formed by the erosion of the Cretaceous strata. This formation, as we can see, occupies all the country southeast from us as far as Mount Taylor; there, as I learned on a former expedition, it is cut through by the valley of the San José, but beyond that extends, we know not how far, southward. At Camp 51 we have precisely the same section as that described at Camp 50; all the formations, from the Carbon- iferous to the Upper Cretaceous, lying in sheets, with edges upturned, along the base of the mountain. There is, however, here a distinct valley worn out between the Cretaceous table-land and the mountain. Near our camp are buttes and mesas several hundred feet in height, composed of the yellow sandstones of Canon Largo, of which the summits are thickly strewn with bowlders of red granite and limestone, evidently washed down from the neighboring mountain before the intervening valley had been eut out by the stream which now flows through it. The amount of erosion indicated by the presence of this local drift where it is now found is enormous. I previously noticed the same phenomena in many localities among the foot-hills of the northern ‘mountains. We find here everywhere in the sandstones great numbers of silicified trees, many of them of very large size, apparently all coniferous. Fragments of these trunks are strewed so abundantly over the surface that they have been used very generally as building-stones in the construction of the ancient pueblos. “In seams and pockets of fine clay in the sandstones I find abundant impressions of angiospermous leaves, apparently of those of sycamore, alder, oak, &e., but the material inclosing them is so friable that they cannot be taken out entire, nor can the fragments be transported for determination. Among these impressions are some conif- erous leaves and stems of a conifer or eyead, very much like the Ulodendron of the Coal- Measures; a scaly trunk with elliptical disks three inches in diameter. I also obtained | fragments of fern leaves, but too imperfect for determination. TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. 117 “September 22.—To-day we ascended the mountain in search of a pass, and found the base and flanks covered by the upturned sedimentary series, just as at Camp 50; the Trias here; as at Laguna, 50 miles south, containing immense masses of snowy gypsum, a thing rarely seen on the San Juan or Grand River.” In the coarse yellow sandstones and conglomerates overlying the red beds of the Trias I find large quantities of the sulphide of copper, replacing trunks and branches of trees, just as at the “Cobre,” near Abiquiu. The summit of the mountain where we ascended is over 9,000 feet above the sea;. it is covered with forests of yellow and sugar pine, Douglass spruce, and the western balsam-fir,* interspersed with areas occupied by oak, maple, and aspen bushes, with here and there poison-oak+ and red-flowered locust. “September 23, Camp 51-52.—Failing to find a pass across the mountain, we to- day resumed our course southward, camping as before on a tributary of the Puerco. The country is generally similar to that seen yesterday, but, as we descend, the forests of yellow pine are gradually succeeded by scattered clumps of pifion, and red and white cedar on the hills, the valleys grassy as before. We have also descended some- what in the geological scale, our present camp being surrounded by mesas of the great sandstone of the Animas—the base of the Upper Cretaceous group—with an exposure of several hundred feet of the underlying strata given in the section of the Creston, viz, gray shales, with bands of concretionary iron-ore, strata of yellow or brown sandstone and beds of lignite, all Middle Cretaceous; in the shale beds is much erystallized @ypsum. “September 24, Camp 52 to 53.—To-day our course has been southeasterly, ap- proaching the southern end of the Nacimiento, through a region much like that of yesterday, except that, as we have now penetrated deeply into the Middle Cretaceous shales, the surface is less broken, the hills being rounded, with long, gentle slopes; the timber has become more sparse, the country less picturesque and inviting. We have here a fine view of all the interval between the Nacimiento and San Mateo. This was. apparently once occupied by an unbroken sheet of Cretaceous rocks, now for the most part removed through the agency of the tributaries of the Puerco. In the west and northwest, high mesas fill the horizon, forming the line of divide to which I have be- fore referred. Around the base of Mount Taylor, extending many miles in every di- rection, is a plateau of trap, which has apparently flowed from this great extinet vol- cano, covering all the sedimentary rocks in its vicinity. In the open valley of the Puerco stand many picturesque trap buttes, having a general resemblance to the Needles of the San Juan. Of these the most conspicuous, called by the Mexicans the Cabazon, resembles in its outline a Spanish sombrero, but is of gigantic dimensions, being at least 1,500 feet in height. | “South from the Cabazon is a high level mesa, composed of Cretaceous rock, which forms the divide between the Puerco and the San José. This I have seen from the other side on a former expedition. ‘September 25, Camp 53-54.—To-day we crossed over the south end of the Naci- miento Mountain to the pueblo of Jemez. The first part of our route was over the *Pinus ponderos, P. Lambertiana, Abies Douglasi, and Abies grandis. t Rhus diversiloba and Robinia Neo Mexicana. 118 EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA F&, ETC. upturned edges of the Cretaceous and ‘Triassic rocks; the angle of inclination becom- ing greater as we approached the mountain. Our march afforded us many wild and picturesque views, made so both by the ragged outlines of the hills and the bright colors of the materials composing them; some consisting of blood-red sandstone ; others of snow-white gypsum; others still of the two intermingled. “After winding through a labyrinth of such hills, we reached the Carboniferous strata, resting directly on the granite. The rocks of this formation are here more cal- careous than at Santa Fé, and abound in fossils, among which I saw most of those enumerated in the Santa Fé section, and, in addition to these, collected a coral and a erinoid, which are apparently new. On descending the eastern slope of the mountain, we found the.sedimentary rocks sueceeding each other precisely as before. Near the pueblo of Jemez, however, the Cretaceous strata have been entirely removed, but they are visible a few miles farther north. As on the western side, copper occurs here near the junction: of the Trias with the Cretaceous. In the valley of Jemez River are a number of buttes of white tufaceous rock, representing a geological element of which we had seen no traces in all our explorations of the San Juan coun- try. ‘These buttes are undoubtedly Tertiary, and, as I have stated in my notes on the geology of the vicinity of Abiquiu, doubtless belong to the great series of fresh- water deposits of Miocene and Pliocene age which skirt the eastern bases of the Rocky Mountains. Here, as elsewhere, they are of local origin and limited extent ; having been deposited in and partially filling an old eroded valley running north and south along the eastern base of Nacimiento Mountain. By the action of Jemez River this valley has again been washed out, leaving only here and there a mass of Tertiary rock standing isolated or adhering unconformably to the sides of the trough composed of the older strata. “September 26, Jemez to Santo Domingo.—In this part of our route we were almost constantly upon the trap mesas which skirt the southern end of the Valles, and extend on the east side of the [io (Grande to the Cerillos. This great overflow of trap, though deeply eroded by the Rio Grande, is geologically quite modern, present- ing the same appearance, in all respects, as the trap plateaus which surround the San Francisco Mountain, Mount Taylor, the Raton, &e.; all of which I have before described.” The Valles—No one has yet penetrated the Valles to study their geological structure, but there can be little doubt of its general character. ‘This mountain group is composed of a number of parallel ranges, of but limited extent, having the general trend of all the chains of the Rocky Mountain system of this vicinity, separated by several well-marked, picturesque, and fertile valleys, from which, rather paradoxically, the mountains take their name. While we know that the sedimentary rocks are visible in many places in the Valles, and that the principal axes are granitic, still the presence of immense sheets and masses of trap give an aspect to the scenery and a character to the geology somewhat different from those of most of the mountain regions visited on the present expedition. On the eastern side of the Valles, to and beyond the Rio Grande, nothing but trap is visible; and we here re-entered the region so fully described in a preceding chapter. EXPLORING EXPEDITION FROM SANTA FE TO JUNCTION OF GRAND AND GREEN RIVERS. | DESCRIPTIONS OF THE CRETACEOUS FOSSILS COLLECTED ON THE SAN JUAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION UNDER CAPT. J. N. MACOMB, U. S. ENGINEERS. BY ~ aS ed eV ES. es Din sak wes Pree 2 ‘ ¥ eee RS a, Fe Rae ie . . tine c ET eee * LL ee pe na cl a . 7 ee ee a < Nt eeeet i Soares iad ae oe sie " way wo eee al * ‘ : at he “ = ty Po Mas Bs Bk Tee oe s+ Nels Sy : wulniat att ee ey eee ee ; : ‘ ; Ces oon - ee one ate’ me 4 * be PHM, tay se ay, San: od ee eats ae. 48 | inter ok ‘ , . 2 age Fg ‘* a ae ete ien eet Nate eee Sa » ie . ae ; Nip reeye-cine ‘ 2ae. ~~ . & * : gees ee poe ve Reet ant . oe he Seba gh au “ * as om re - fi " tool ~ Eee ook ‘ ‘4 te . 4 " . ee, en - ~~ - - om, $ t TS . . 7 . ” ae ~ ~ , OP a % . . : . ‘ . . a> Sail - . . “ i - ‘ Rial +, ae ’ 4. . 2 . . . te, . . x wo , « - . ~! 33 . am - € 3.3 Z : * . * See . é . ~~ c iy 4 ‘4 on . * . * ” ra »: r : seas 130 Ger REMVLOTITAIDS fos cao ee oy eek cote + .. snakes, .eeb Gattis ae Z 18 TAPSU Ge ooh a os vas ak ee 18 Vd Te) diva a 0 eo ence ee re ee 1,7, 9,135 O. Ojo deb Cuerbo .. 2. cece sees wc nee cee ee reese 90 Ry RO ans oss bales A eee te mers va Berane sesas 5,93 Clos HeEHiOnd0s 2.2 2.5 co wens 2 0 ots eee ane B80 86 RPE THROU ign. no. NAR WERE A aw bs «ona ge Se nak yo AS 39, 40 3 Yai i See 2ieca ts ep an Sly raves c= NN ee (prey Ae om” 22 Opeias UGE!) OB... 25 keel coc n sn} eseewe vaeeree=-s 85, 103 ORE arg ves aus sau cea Sh Ge cans WMP eaR oe ta genhe 45 STILT er tas esis Pe 8 carn ig -* c's Gm RAED 21, 43, 45,98 Ostrea congesta ....--..-.----------. 33; 72,77, 87,99; 118 Gromantu la. oo. Clann onto anes we ae Bs 33 MIE DEIA: ~ a 0's hoe wcalne= ta << eS sane 52, 77; 107, 123 BGOLHE ca ee eee ot See he See hee us 124 PTET occas soca et ove ses vente ees 69, 141, 142 Macomilese- eee evan. sp eae ere eem 141 OSes one te ene = os ae nn eae 33, 141 PR. Pachyphyllum...-.. .-...- +--+ see eee eee ee eee eee 69 Pagosa... 2-2 cee reece eee eee nee renee cee eee 5,74, 77 PAlYSS1S 52.5 oc ceee tebe baw eee co sane saeeee a4 69 PRWNGS-1 OL Kae eae ake 8 «Soe pee hae 22 Pecopteris arborescens .... .....----------+++2---- 18, 49 DPiliahltitesces Sacks Is = hrc need ee ene 143 PRECISE paige ST na < we areas ep ot cle 144 Maxighnar we ess. ere eee 143 Stutgardtensis ........... Pn aye ER 69 PO008 satin ne oa eet ee kan sa ate ee a 49 Permo-carboniferous group. .-.-.- .--+-- ---- «----- 20 Pfeiffer, Albert H ..2-.2.2-... ---.-- 2-24 -6-45, 67, 68, 69 PICAMe ALAC S cote ete oe es en oe wean 77 Piscean Mountaine sce ete han SS ae eee 38 Plateau west of Rocky Mountains ..--...-..-.------ 54 Plateaus bordering Cafion Largo ....-..---------- 109 Platycoras .... 2... - ceceee cece ee cence e cee ee ences 45 Pleurophorous.... .- 2. Sees eee eres 19, 20, 47 PIGULOCOMALIY ooo -< eee ee Si oo etna ae elas oes 938, 140 PLGA Prey OD GLIG. oc sc eee Ss an eer enn arte 126 POUOTeMUSeS OLAssUOUAR==<—- sss. aka ness Coen 145 Pope's Well... 225 sn ce tae ad cubes scemnas estas 51 HaASY CAE VN. onan io a oeranuntanne « 35M 26, 27, 41, 52, 76, 77, 81 Prioncyclus Macombii..... ----...-------------- 132, 133 CE Tire GL Vet if) 12a api one Mi Fe a2 19, 21, 43, 45, 46, 58, 98, 99, 140 ERROR Pee cnn are pe et lynde aie ww gk eon ¥ Q. CRMs owece con ty Jangna bees >> sarees egeens 26, 27, 37, 41 QUeCIrCUS see SoS. Se aw he ace awn r carmes voeeee 99 Xi RED DH AAI~DULLON 6 aaa ase ees a: Caen err 31 Raiiiiatielisen wee 2 ae ee am ena nas 3 - Sen ea wa ae 40 Ratone MOUntTOIIS Snape prec eo oe wb vom niw ecw ae as eere 25, 28 Red Deis aise. § vermin dao peace acco sn Sear 47,56 ROOF OLE OL- GANA Ish seen wa Seo ene ons temees 31, 32 EEO EE ener ks 5 Nin SRR ee i a 89 POTATO LATION veg ac piv aoe lame SA Stet Wee ene Lak 43 TLE G GUO Get acetates Salm ecay 5 Seni the te Nig me 21, 45 Aer eSNG ae hk wd bi Soa gees ALANA OR GIR Or OPEN a 81 ROR RIT nS 2 o's! mics ee ge A ca eA 35 AE GRS. Shen ates bo Sy Be 8 ete PS a 79 BES Fests Pat Saas eeas spp oan Pe ea 86 PROMINOr eas EO’. atte. 4s cee EA ae wes 79 ETRY Olea tea ED 3 wees su ses > mip tea 5) IN ON On Seg eee sey 2 Sag a Moo a ein mivetbee aie baeore wes: PORT ne ea soa ea ne ae ees Ree ee te 77,78 PUBOADS GO eR ne Sas awe Sioa ne ats wn 74, 76 5 RHA fe) SLOTS ist Rs SE 5 eae wn) ean ah to eee ed 37 ieee fbestipe pra ba ciate cl emigre ens eae OT a 77 DYHPDIROOIOLOG. oxo - 2:0 = Sun Siew ae har ey 68, 90, 92 Rocky Mountain system ..-..----. Popeye cree 55 Mountains, time of elevation of the.-....... 57 PERLITE EN LS ore ae ee EIR Soe 69 DeaatnG CXDOM fans coats nee n eke Sts 95 Te MET) WV OV = oa pecownc bew wen wl bos eae 109 PROTO LID OS as po wn See at eS 80 WOIGIGN soc = <> 22> an eae eee is 88 Ss. SERED OE yao aoe aor a nr ee peg es Set Se 67, 83, 85, 89 PSUIOTONS STON wees coc. « i taxeendn sae acee dae aca 48 PRU EOK ee eee aes Tp wee eS eW Et 24, 31, 32, 87, 99 DAN CIS NIONNUAIN 2s. cs - wane eory ew n'-Syalveeesp ons 56, 77 DAN GaN Unies Sse en Seo pe aac ane mein ws oa oo ee 27 DBANURUONO aie erscue «cy a aa eee oe 24, 26, 33 Dan han GIsGO LOM DEhINS . oo =. xaemerite sagen ten00, OU Ist Datin Nia 124 heat ills «ipa Sona ae een ay ee 5, 74, 75, 101, 106 Nao Oe EY Ole me = cap ka nw werd dork eumwe ay es 106 SOPRA ORCA Wises aoa fiir Roe Eminent weiss 7 Sar pists Se scg eo oon cane bees en eeee 55, 56, 60 Soni Oxteimaess cays. .t ~~ wap pee gene peo nen 5, 34, 36 POOLED Lakin pina snes Seal one mee oO ae 36, 37 NR GUALS: OF nv iai nn alate pee See LTS - 38, 39 RI GUPORILIS «wb ans oxwras ocr eee ete 37, 38, 56, 65 MEO M OMNI GIT Usiiern cdc 55 ss bs Aae a eR ale 118 DALCOD RUA bor at towne. wee or Sane ary a open aa we 90 MANNIE DONG eatin ots vei ecg teee, wap way seeeey 91 BOMBA AL aMID EE aici. aan ni eaenet ale we - 42; 121 SCUL acc memes fo oak cK eR Ee ee ooo oe 28, 52 Section of rocks at breaks of Red River......---..- os) buttes west of Nacimiento Mountain sos eu cs aden seers 112 Cation COlonado 2S oa8 ces et 95 PINCRIO . eta aoe sama 91 THOATD Orewa. eta oe 111 Chin p 34 2s. yor aces ett ee 104 Captain Pope’s Well ........-- 52 Cedar Spunee eae cenekuee 30 Cerro-Gotd os ier sae ke anes 46 ColoradG-Visllevccteceace.. woe. 99 Cliffs at Moqui villages........ 105 OPORTO Skeet — se te 3 < wn wee 108 crossing of Arkansas... ....-. 27 Enchanted Spring.-...-. reas 29 gorge of Santa Fé River....-.- 45 Labyrinthsbredic.ce< +9. .2-. 5 98 Middle Spring of Cimarron .... 28 PAW OG Ol hina trehtw a seh y eee 24 152 Page. Section of rocks at Rio Dolores.... ........---.-.- 86 DANUA Og 208 8 oo oe ten ae cae 43 SET AR Ie: (Regie gk ah aeeepeenee eo Sw 48 in the Valley of the Chama....... 71 Pecos, feck 48 STOREASA DE] Oger sero Siete eke. ORE 6, 55, 62, 90, 100 GIG TION SI ITION tee & ons eke teas Cea eee 76, 79, 80 CG ar Pkt cgi i ee ee ca 5, 56, 76, 80, 82, 84, 88 GD: NPY Sah cate eit oan» SE FE en wim ick SOO 73, %6, 77 ALAN TSTY AVL Te eeteangy git SOPON t ag eel Nate Rec 3 Oe 66 ERS Re ee ets Fe 55, 62, 85, 88, 80, 93 LAR oss Sane at oie spi ones Sues hee a 55 NEBROTO accra See ane og eee Se eae oe 56, 62 PENTA eres ess a BA is Re eS 75, 76 PRIA TS UO so oo ecagit pau RO TS 5 eee 56, 88, 90 SRUGAIIO sons acne ae Saye Ee is en eae 55, 62 Bip saeMGU ancl: 4. een Seat ie te ue eR 18 PU GUIEtEE GDU ri"... es Sakon. Ae RSE RS = Sie ee 38, 110 Silver of Los Cerrillos .......... Nahi aar ts HOk nS sos 41 SY Gy ui are CES 2a eee cre 81, 82 PROCHAV MOTI SeI DN wed eons eethenidn ap ovanansieuee 88 a. Table-lands skirting Rocky Mountains........---. 34 DUCSU i Gniieeies ihren oi. 4 1 es henten soeewes 69 GISTOEE. hws al Spay Stat iain gd van neon SAE SADRBGDVOLUIUOS so 55-25 wan x one bas «eens 147 PERERA DEEN han Bese Wel alan nes dette 6 weber 147 Tertiary basin of the Arkansas.............-...-. 24 LORSUIB 0505 omnia eer. 5 oy ae eae, 25 strata . a Sk A OY 0s COV AUT Os 00; OF; OF ist Famer CEs ass oe oe keke Nek aha ‘A116 | fo) INDEX. TRBUINSEAREOIIG 0. chwtewn and id seer suet ase 146 Tierra Blanca. ... =... See Si initw Paes bee 90 1) ES a SPR aN he TA) nN ea sen sete Sree ee ee Lie EES chee vi MED DOL MO OLOLEG O's S15 oaks wig ee eae ee ey oe Su ee 53 SPOUT COL DI AGLO Qin oe Le ee n> an oe 20 magnesian limestone. s- sons. .a~. eee 21 Va VEO atlaltli ain fet Sonne ites wae Sa ee ee 8 fy Vet teats 53. ceo. Sus rec’ core veg eo eae se be 7 Valdez, Noponooino .-. . 20 cine saeweavecd ies vecewe an 5 AVNER NG. OS 2c. es ee Sena 2 Uc oneiere aN car be ae 118 Vaile vr Ofte AM AS 3 o> .nicag wee ceasuew oie ats 76, 80, 81 ADIATIBUS doco irrer owas. oP ced oie oe 22, 28 Wanaclanice=so2 «1 cadtugenwoske sean 32, 34 Cimiarron....--. ee Rte nicely Pcwlgt ie 28, 30 Drttle=Colorad0 mee ee ee 63 EBC OH nna Sec a ein Ae ch a ea 48 View from High Divide...--- Se Dito Seen ee AE 78 of country bordering San Juan.......-.....-. 103 VolGaniG, ROUlORs saepese. noe com ewe 25, 31, 34, 38, 52, 60, 61, 62 Vi Lai te ene PAY carer SOS os oe ae gi wh ee pe ee 49, 69 Wa Walohineeo. ts~-< oo Pa oe on ees 48, 49 WAI OLee Rees beats} Sacks ee A see eet ae Via WVGBNGO DIMOU INURL cae Pee coe 5 we er a cea 55, 60 SW SUGL-BUD PLY ces dees Cw Oe w Uw cian Sa a ee aes Z. HiaMites:-OCCcldentalis, coc ss Lhe ake aero eet ne 142 Ira, Tia. Fria. Fia. Fig. FIG, Ira, ria. er ALT 1. 1, OSTREA LUGUBRIS..............- ar eee eer ee atareutewons Sots. ee Bilas oa SE Ss Soke la. Under valve attached to a piece of rock, and showing the inside, with the muscular impression. 1b. Outside view of an upper valve of same. le. Outside view of an under valve, showing the sear of attachment, which is unusually small. 1d. Inside view of another specimen. ee EON EL rar ire cig aa teen | SR hsp e< Ste oe oe ore eer jun awe epotetotta 2a. Inside view of an under valve. 2b. Outside of same. 2¢. Lateral view of same. 3, EXOGYRA COLUMBELLA .........-. eee oh mec inte s ene ret ree Nc ea eee a el Sed ac a we 3a. Outside of under valve, from a wax cast taken in a mould left in the matrix. 3b. An internal cast of an under valye. 3e, Side view of same. 3d. An internal cast left in the rock, of the inside of the upper valve. 4, ANOMIA NITIDA ...... .... Es a Ae ie peer. 2 reg eng ae pt ae a a Nee enn : 4a. View of an upper valve, with only a portion of the shell attached to the cast. 4b, An outline side view of the same. OMe TS APEVARTS. ov... ete nee: Syed oes. yee fe oc ve Ce eae Meee 5a. An internal cast of the under valve. 5b. Outside of the upper valve. 5c, A side view of same. 6. INGOBRASIUS SRAGIEG.... 2... .. . . ee cea ee 6 ae ee cogent ; 7. CAPROTINA BICORNIS ..... 9 Ae mo aa Sd Ne pace oe aie ee atte le ee ee lg Ss ash oe oan 7a. A view of one of the valves. 7b. The two valves together. Ae OEE A, 9. ORRABA ccis Senet Seneca 4 hci Soc yloe ae men ee SMEs err ane oa Sie s DEE 8a. Outside of a right valve. 8b, An internal cast of the same valve, showing the muscular and pallial impressions and a cast of the hinge. 8c. Hinge of the right valve. 8d. An anterior view. Page. 123 124 124 126 128 CRETACEOUS FOSSILS. 4 TY. Sinclair & Son. lith. Phila. Fia. iG, lia. lia. lia. Fra, Fig. Tia. coded BS, BS 5) a Bi 1, BACULITES ANCEPS?.......--- Denes oxkn os ae Mane el Sing Sar ree la. Side view. 1b, An antisiphonal view. le. A section of same. 1d. A septum of same. le. A more slender, less compressed individual, with rounded nodes instead of transverse costie. 1/. An antisiphonal view of same. 1g. An enlarged septum of the same. 1h. Transverse section of the same. 2, BACULITES ANCEPS, after D’Orbigny, for comparison 2a. Transverse section. 2b. A septum. She RLU CAR EN EA INOS ma «ie MENS cba, RL Artes pce Clot oy kee Re Gan kee XE Celeb ea een 3a. Side view. 3b. An antisiphonal view. 3c. A septum of the same, enlarged. 3d, An antisipbonal view of a very smali specimen, Meu ORMON INTHROMTARIO o 42202. yovusdessi-- scree ne ee ee ee ee da. View showing the aperture, which is imperfect in the specimen figured. 4b. A back view of the same specimen. 4e. Surface-striw, enlarged. 5. ANCHURA? NEWBERRYI.......... PSs < kee a ee OM ee Sew or eta Sue one mace ee eee ee ee 6, CARDIOM BELLULUM..........0.... =a Se Pee Ser SPU eer ns wa Se Onc We Fev SSE eae ee Saw pees 6a. Side view. 6b, Anterior view (the left valve being restored). 7. CRASSATELLA SHUMARDI....... jdacceael tenn. Te eae x Sseuy Poa, Wl keas in ao eae EE Yor Ae mane 7a. View of a specimen, with the lower part of the valves imperfect. 7 b. Cardinal view of the same. ~ 7¢e, An internal cast of a larger specimen. 8, AN UNDETERMINED BIVALVE, from the same rock as fig. ~ de 132 129 PALALONTOLOGY of CRETACEOUS FOSSILS. Capt. Macombs Expls. FB. Meek.del. T. Sinclair & Son. ith. i P Le Ane aod, Page. Fig. 1, Deltodus Mercurii, Newb., upper surface... .. a a ats Rees ow eed eaten e ls hee Pes" 107 la. zs a Newb., side view .....-.-- gow CB aecee oes SUES 7G Set cede. jas tear eee 137 Coal-Measures, Santa Fé, N. Mex. 137 IG, 2. Ptychodus Whipple, Marcou, upper surface .........-.. Sees Be sitet Ba Shier ala tiow's Rip ce ae eerie 2a. ¥ Marcon, side view ............ Pee pe Se mite A ~ Si tine Sal Pe Oe ee Pe ea oy a eee YS 2b. 2% bs Marcon, anterior fabOvea...s 2 eseeneet ee ek ay ere eS 2 tan See > gee EV 2c-2F. 7 Marcou, side and front view of small teeth .....- es fo bin wo shay dd See ES 137 Middle Cretaceous, Pagosa, Southwestern Colorado. Fic. 3. Productus rodosus, Newb., ventral valve.............-..----- ate ok mn ete ee Sits 0s PkeS eee See - IAU 3a. a: Newhb., side view : ..i 7.2.65. OG, Soe eae fc ee pend astee Se Rema or JAD 3h, 3c.“ . Newb., specimen with narrow hinge. .....................--. shia cia: = Sateen neces, 140 3d. we . Newb., specimen with broad bing6 dav notes vec. Seeecbuk «.. oe » Noses Le ee eee & 140 Coal- Measures, Santa Fé, N. Mex. Pig. 4. Pleurotomaria excelsa, New)., side view ......---. 2. -- A = aa gt Ae ee AOE OY ae A EP: owe wee tt AAG 4a. ~. A Nowb., basal aspoot sossceees coe ax Pipe S Pee LOR eRWE ea sak So hae ee seen? ta AU Carboniferous strata, Canon of Colorado River, Southeastern Utah. Ita. 5, Spirifer Teranns, Meek, side view, natural size.........-....-.. pte Wicas eat eA ee wepetrens” » ASO 5a, A dorsal view of same specimen, showing cardinal area and foramen..........-..ecceeseeececeeeee.cee 139 ob, A ventral view of a larger specimen, showing the deep angular mesial sinus.......... Ses +. Soe peas 189 CARBONIFEROUS & CRETACEOUS FOSSILS. MATAOV ~£ ) ry of Wl Ol LUI T. Sinclaix Po Adee. V2 I ta, 1,2. Olozamites Macombii, Newb., Copper-mines, near Abiquiu, N. Mex...... ..---.- ee eee cee eee cee eee cee ee : » | 3,4. Branch of conifer, Copper-mines, near Abiquiu, N. Mex....... ..- 20+ ceende oon coon cee cece ees cece wees y 4. Branch of conifer (Brachyphyllum ?), Copper-mines, near Abiquin, N. Mex ..-.... OS ee ee eS Capt. J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate IV. T. Sinclair & Son. lith. Phila. P Ls Aa ee “ENG: 1, Ys Zamhtes dovidentalic, Newl...... ....-+ .-.-<+ .sdepiuas SOMONE as ade dap -od os ce 142 la. - 4 Newb., pinnw enlarged, Upper Trias, Copper mines, Abiquiu, N. Moxus. b> > sess 142 3. Olozamites Macombii, Newb., Upper Trias, Copper-mines, Abiquinja, Mek... ....5.... .225 cee lil 4. Branch of conifer (Pachyphyllum ?), Upper Trias, Copper-mines, A biquitg i, Mex, seul tos -.. ce,os-... 69 o. Cone of conifer (Pachyphyllum?), Upper Trias, Copper-mines, Abiquiu, NARUC. soo: s+. ge eee eens 69 Capt. J.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Plate VY. I a A Was VY Page. VFI. 1. Peoomers. bullets, Donbourie- .<.. gigas ty - aa eechetye.. .--+-- in, ig ewe pe De oY ae ya la, 5, « Bunbury, pinnules with sori, Trias, Los Bronoes, Sonora......-- 2... 2-2. see eee eee eee - 143 fo Qamlethopteris Metioana, Now Ds ~ «oi... mieeee ee we oe ee hig os 2 So 3 ie ne Ee eee Rs 143 2a. : Newb., pinna bearing fruit, Los Bronces, Sonor@ ......,2-.-. .2..-.----6---- dine 143 |, 3. Pecopteris falcatus, Emmons, in fruit, Los Bronces, Sonora ..-....--- teeageceecee scenes ee SS Rey ae 144 ~ 4. Frond of undetermined fern in fruit, Los Bronces, Sonora ......-.-. Bens S's dee us ae _ BONS A V5. Otozamites Macombii, Newhb., Los Broncés, Sonolda: yen. >. -.'<--~ laa eee es Be Pog A a's wg es E: ] 1/6, 6a. Pterophyllum delicatulum, Newb., Los Bronces, Sonora........... 2.2. -.-2 seeeee eee eeee mee eee an te 144 yi. Pterophyllum robustum, Newb., Los Bronces, Sonora.........-------.s-++-- 7 Se Sa Bias tt. Sasa HRD (8. Podozamites crassifolia, Newb., Los Bronces, Sonora........ .-.--.----o-----eeee Se! Rae, - ae pe y 9 Branch of conifer (Pachyphyllum?), Copper-mines, Abiquiu, N. Mex............2222.22220- cece cone Coca 69 ( 10. Branch of conifer ( Palyssia ?), Los Bronces, Sonora........ .- bate a OIG eet MMe as vacuo ws ogo *. 145 Plate V1. Capl a Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. | in EE gear Deis parr ee — a a> foes T' V Ad. Fic. 1. Alethopteris Whitneyi, Newb., upper portion of frond. la. aN ‘ Lower portion of frond......-.. 1b. + 4 Summit-of frond, Los Bronces, Sonora .<....: ... cee eee ee cco 2. Camptopteris Remondi, Newb., central portion of frond Qa. : Portion of pinna, showing nervation, Los Bronces, Sonora Se i na es Capt _JuJ.N.Macomb, Exp. in New Mexico & Utah. Cele Saar i RR PisASw V Lid Tage. PRG. Tanieptemaetegais, New):, Los _Bronees, Sonora sasase ects ee.ces. 2bes0c She ae ses pe eetunbeeoe cs. woeaaeeax 147 y 2} 2. Laon rera.g ossap terordes, INOW D:s08, BLONCER HONOLD..ce. s- ..-2 2a)s oe See as Sees owe once sos meats oy ea Doueiionerismaonty oud, ogers,’ bos Broncespmonoismesas cad. ~- -..0.. 2a tds ce enee ees soon oan ke 147 ha VERMA ay WRG OLUS VAI: t, 1708 DIONCGS, SeMOMNe capi Ne Ge ls yh awe bus Sues cepaweeh bash ake vs Bas wes e 147 j ) \fentoptens sp7, in fruit; summit of frond, Los Brontves, Sonora..-. .... .. 2225... .~ 252. dae nd aces anus oe Va 6) Jeanpaulia radiata, Newhb., Los Bronces, Sonora.........-.-..--- ead wan eg i a ae eee Re a 142 Plate VII. ixp. in New Mexico & Utah. Capt. J.N.Macomb, E Son. ith. Philo. Sinclair &* ” t