The Zoji Pass and Sind Valley. 333

There remains, however, another pass to be crossed
before we get into the valleys of even Upper Kashmir.
A very cold and wet day's journey took us up the
Dras river to the miserable hamlet of Mataan, where,
before getting out of my tent next morning, I learned
that the Yarkand envoy could not be far off. I heard
a loud voice crying out, Caff/ banao, cha banao —
" Make coffee, make tea,"—followed by whack, whack,
as the blows of a stick descended upon a man's back.
This turned out to be the Wuzeer's Wuzeer, or the
envoy's avant-courier, who was pushing on ahead of
his patron, and preparing the way. Like many gentle-
men's gentlemen, he was extremely indignant at the
comforts of life not being ready for him. I do not
believe that this miserable hamlet of Mataan could
have turned out a cup of tea or coffee to save the lives
of all its inhabitants \ and it seemed to me that the
Wuzeer's Wuzeer administered the stick to the entire
population of that unhappy village. When I came
out of my tent, I had a momentary glimpse of a little
man in something like a red dressing-gown, dancing
furiously round a very big man, and hitting him with
a long stick; but on my appearance, he suddenly
retired into his d&li.

After that, on the six marches down to Srinagar, I
never found myself clear of the retinue of the Yarkand
envoy: for the whole road down was covered with men
carrying his things; and tents, guarded by Kashmh
soldiers, had been pitched for him at various places,
There were said to be 3000 coolies employed in carry-
ing up himself and the effects he had purchased in Eu
rope. I cannot say as to the exact number ; but really
there seemed to be no end of them, and they came froir
all parts of Kashmfr. They were to be met with a
almost every turning, and in very various positions
At one moment I would find half-a-dozen of the m rest